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<posthistory>
  <row Id="1" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="e1cb849b-3d75-49ea-96d7-94f02405dce9" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:39:07.963" UserId="6" Text="My second to last laptop was a Core2Duo 2.4 GHz processor. I have recently purchased a new laptop, which has 2.5 GHz i7 processors (the new model Macbook Pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It it fairly obvious that a 5-year newer processor is faster. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My assumption is the processor speed has something to do with actual calculations per second, but obviously the &quot;GHz&quot; comparison is meaningless as a comparison when not comparing the same model of processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - How can I reliably or meaningfully determine the differences in performance from two processors of different models? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="e1cb849b-3d75-49ea-96d7-94f02405dce9" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:39:07.963" UserId="6" Text="How can I evaluate processor performance when comparing processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="e1cb849b-3d75-49ea-96d7-94f02405dce9" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:39:07.963" UserId="6" Text="&lt;processor-architecture&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2" RevisionGUID="0e03f793-e3c8-43e7-b853-7303e458b67d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:51:12.223" UserId="8" Text="The most obvious way is just to simply benchmark the two against each other. If you have a machine with each processor installed, or one machine with the ability to change the processor, then you can run tests. One machine would be better, to preserve all the other contributing aspects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perform some common tasks with each processor installed. These should be tasks that primarily use the CPU, rather than any other component: browsing the web wouldn't be as good, because it primarily uses the network card (yes, it *does* use CPU, but I don't see that as its *primary* resource). Tasks such as these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- File operations (move, copy, delete);&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy calculations. If you can program, make yourself a loop with some heavy work in there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to do as much work, you can look up processor stats. A quick Google has revealed [this website][1] to me, which seems to me to hold lists of processors that someone else has benchmarked for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2" RevisionGUID="a20ce448-a493-4aff-9d9a-65f027a98e91" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:56:09.410" UserId="1" Comment="grammar fixes" Text="The most obvious way is just to simply benchmark the two against each other. If you have a machine with each processor installed, or one machine with the ability to change the processor, then you can run tests. One machine would be better, to preserve all the other contributing aspects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perform some common tasks with each processor installed. These should be tasks that primarily use the CPU, rather than any other component: browsing the web wouldn't be as good, because it primarily uses the network card (yes, it *does* use CPU, but I don't see that as its *primary* resource). Tasks such as these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- File operations (move, copy, delete);&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy calculations. If you can program, make yourself a loop with some heavy work in there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to do as much work, you can look up processor stats. A quick Google search revealed [this website][1] to me, which seems to me to hold lists of processors that someone else has benchmarked for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2" RevisionGUID="a20ce448-a493-4aff-9d9a-65f027a98e91" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:56:09.410" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2" RevisionGUID="07fe2575-cb9d-4fed-a058-8705ccd0509e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:56:09.410" UserId="8" Comment="grammar fixes - this is Undo's edit, but if I do it then it gets instantly applied" Text="The most obvious way is just to simply benchmark the two against each other. If you have a machine with each processor installed, or one machine with the ability to change the processor, then you can run tests. One machine would be better, to preserve all the other contributing aspects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perform some common tasks with each processor installed. These should be tasks that primarily use the CPU, rather than any other component: browsing the web wouldn't be as good, because it primarily uses the network card (yes, it *does* use CPU, but I don't see that as its *primary* resource). Tasks such as these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- File operations (move, copy, delete);&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy calculations. If you can program, make yourself a loop with some heavy work in there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to do as much work, you can look up processor stats. A quick Google search revealed [this website][1], among others, to me, which seems to me to hold lists of processors that someone else has benchmarked for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="608f5417-7203-4dc3-9e24-a897b4085a1e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:08:55.210" UserId="8" Text="I'm looking at getting a new smartphone, as my old one (a Sony Xperia E) has reached the end of its life. There are a few things it has to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *not* an iPhone&#xD;&#xA;- enough RAM to play games with (I found the Xperia E, at its nominal 500MB, was too slow)&#xD;&#xA;- display resolution not below 200 ppi&#xD;&#xA;- all the standard communications stuff: texts, calls, and internet (plus their apps pre-installed)&#xD;&#xA;- a camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there are some things it would be nice to have, but I'd settle for something less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Retina-resolution&#xD;&#xA;- the ability to create a portable hotspot&#xD;&#xA;- a *decent* camera, i.e. &gt; 8MP&#xD;&#xA;- an SD card slot (no preferences on SD type)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine there *is* a phone that satisfies all this; what do you recommend? Please include your reasoning in your answer, and any experiences you have of the phone you're recommending." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="608f5417-7203-4dc3-9e24-a897b4085a1e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:08:55.210" UserId="8" Text="What's a good smartphone for this case?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="608f5417-7203-4dc3-9e24-a897b4085a1e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:08:55.210" UserId="8" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="42d3b08b-3221-45f6-951d-df7c0f760557" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:12:07.977" UserId="8" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I'm looking at getting a new smartphone, as my old one (a Sony Xperia E) has reached the end of its life. There are a few things it has to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *not* an iPhone - I have a personal hatred for the things (not through use, simply on principle)&#xD;&#xA;- enough RAM to play games with (I found the Xperia E, at its nominal 500MB, was too slow)&#xD;&#xA;- display resolution not below 200 ppi&#xD;&#xA;- all the standard communications stuff: texts, calls, and internet (plus their apps pre-installed)&#xD;&#xA;- a camera&#xD;&#xA;- *absolute* maximum £400 ($614.42)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there are some things it would be nice to have, but I'd settle for something less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Retina-resolution&#xD;&#xA;- the ability to create a portable hotspot&#xD;&#xA;- a *decent* camera, i.e. &gt; 8MP&#xD;&#xA;- an SD card slot (no preferences on SD type)&#xD;&#xA;- the cheaper the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine there *is* a phone that satisfies all this; what do you recommend? Please include your reasoning in your answer, and any experiences you have of the phone you're recommending." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="8bb2a5ea-731c-4aa5-9c31-9141531de09b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:16:20.927" UserId="8" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="I'm looking at getting a new smartphone, as my old one (a Sony Xperia E) has reached the end of its life. There are a few things it has to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *not* an iPhone - I have a personal hatred for the things (not through use, simply on principle)&#xD;&#xA;- enough RAM to play games with (I found the Xperia E, at its nominal 500MB, was too slow)&#xD;&#xA;- display resolution not below 200 ppi&#xD;&#xA;- all the standard communications stuff: texts, calls, and internet (plus their apps pre-installed)&#xD;&#xA;- a camera&#xD;&#xA;- *absolute* maximum £400 ($614.42)&#xD;&#xA;- fits in a pocket (I find that means &lt; 6.0&quot; total size)&#xD;&#xA;- decent screen size (&gt;= 4.5&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there are some things it would be nice to have, but I'd settle for something less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Retina-resolution&#xD;&#xA;- the ability to create a portable hotspot&#xD;&#xA;- a *decent* camera, i.e. &gt; 8MP&#xD;&#xA;- an SD card slot (no preferences on SD type)&#xD;&#xA;- the cheaper the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine there *is* a phone that satisfies all this; what do you recommend? Please include your reasoning in your answer, and any experiences you have of the phone you're recommending." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5" RevisionGUID="66528cb9-def9-48c8-bd02-e681f8f06b0a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:18:18.407" UserId="22" Text="The newly (August 2015) announced [Motorola X Pure Edition][1] **costs $400**, well below your price range, yet is a high-end modern smartphone. I think European branding is Moto X Style.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 5.7&quot; 1440p Quad HD display and front-facing stereo speakers (515 pixels per inch - better than Retina).&#xD;&#xA;* 21 MP camera&#xD;&#xA;* 3GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* microSD card (up to 128)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This phone matches and frequently exceeds 100% of your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is as close as you get to raw Android short of a Nexus device, rootability is almost guaranteed so local hotspot should also be doable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-x-pure-edition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6" RevisionGUID="7c6d11cd-d59f-41e3-a43a-78ed37c221e8" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:23:39.157" UserId="24" Text="I have a remote server (running far, far away), which has a very important USB device plugged in (call T). Sometimes this device simply dies. If this happens, a simple plug out - plug in solves the problem on the spot. But to do that, somebody must be there physically, and do the plug out - plugin back with his own hands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I would like to automatize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to have another (USB or not) device, which can control the power line of another device, so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. it stays between T and my server&#xD;&#xA;2. can control the _power_ of another USB device&#xD;&#xA;3. from the server I can control it remotely (ideal would be a char device, but any other solution is also acceptable)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6" RevisionGUID="7c6d11cd-d59f-41e3-a43a-78ed37c221e8" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:23:39.157" UserId="24" Text="With what type of device could I power off/on another USB device programmatically?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6" RevisionGUID="7c6d11cd-d59f-41e3-a43a-78ed37c221e8" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:23:39.157" UserId="24" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="ad1e2287-aa0c-4288-9c00-f8479ffae4c5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:25:05.700" UserDisplayName="user16" Text="I have many times read that a good camera in a smartphone doesn't solely depend on pixels. So, what should I check in order to have a good camera in a smart-phone apart from pixel? Is it also true that a lower pixel camera can pick better images than those having larger pixels? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="ad1e2287-aa0c-4288-9c00-f8479ffae4c5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:25:05.700" UserDisplayName="user16" Text="What is more essential to check apart from pixel in smartphone having a good camera?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="ad1e2287-aa0c-4288-9c00-f8479ffae4c5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:25:05.700" UserDisplayName="user16" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="15badb22-ec19-4eec-a823-ea3c8a8e5381" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:28:12.670" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="What's a good non-iPhone smartphone that's reasonably priced and specced?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="02381b87-14b8-487f-a180-da85982d3ac3" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:30:41.507" UserId="25" Text="Well based on your preferences, I would definitely recommend [OnePlus 2][1]. One of my friend bought it and its really awesome with the best features and at a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 13 MP with Dual flash and of course Laser-focused&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB LPDDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Adreno 430 GPU &#xD;&#xA; - Octacore CPU, good for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only exception is you need to Buy with an invite. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://oneplus.net/2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10" RevisionGUID="5f659d57-1864-4936-9bfa-22bdd550cd04" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:34:28.460" UserId="8" Text="General guidance for [buying cameras alone][1] can be applied here. There are several important aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Pixels**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the resolution that the image sensor is capable of capturing. The greater the number, the more detail you'll get in your image. This does, however, combine with the next point:&#xD;&#xA;- **Sensor size**  &#xD;&#xA;  The bigger the sensor, the bigger the pixels can be. And the bigger the pixels, the better your image quality. 'Nuff said.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom type**  &#xD;&#xA;  Only one part of zoom, this. Look at optical vs. digital zoom - in short, optical zoom uses lenses to bring the image apparently closer to the sensor, whereas digital simply blows up the pixels in the middle of the image and fits them to your screen. Optical results in better quality when zoomed, but is bulky. Many phones will for that reason use digital.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom range**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the number like that comes in the format &quot;8x digital zoom&quot; or &quot;32x optical zoom&quot;. The bigger the number, the further away you can sense things from. Take care, though - big digital zooms often result in pixelated images. With a phone, you can often simply get closer to your subject - an 8x is often adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/buying-advice/top-tips-for-deciding-what-camera-to-buy-13255" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="daebf433-6d4d-4c22-afa2-6c5465dff1e4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:44:17.570" UserId="15" Text="Some time ago I've read about [5D 'Superman memory crystal' heralds unlimited lifetime data storage][1] which is about the data-storage technique which uses a laser to alter the optical properties of fused quartz at the nanoscale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This kind of devices can potentially store 360TB of data (equivalent to 75,000 DVDs) on a standard-sized disc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this technology real so far? Are there any available hardware devices for data storage based on that technology that you can recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/news/2013/jul/17/5d-superman-memory-crystal-heralds-unlimited-lifetime-data-storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="daebf433-6d4d-4c22-afa2-6c5465dff1e4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:44:17.570" UserId="15" Text="Are there any quartz crystal-based data storage devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="daebf433-6d4d-4c22-afa2-6c5465dff1e4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:44:17.570" UserId="15" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="2ef8cdaf-49a9-462f-a5c3-5c59b95b0bc1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:45:54.893" UserId="25" Comment="updated the invite system." Text="Well based on your preferences, I would definitely recommend [OnePlus 2][1]. One of my friend bought it and its really awesome with the best features and at a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 13 MP with Dual flash and of course Laser-focused&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB LPDDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Adreno 430 GPU &#xD;&#xA; - Octacore CPU, good for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comes at **€ 399**. Only exception is you need to *Buy with an invite. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:** People can't just walk to the store and get one, so to buy/place an order someone must send you an invite. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Who is that someone? - usually, oneplus team will send an invite to few people and they can pass the stick to others, and this continues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To get more understanding about the invite, visit the link [Invite System][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://oneplus.net/2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/the-oneplus-invite-system-updated-may-9.1150/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="44" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="15" RevisionGUID="3be2243b-f4d5-4e2a-bf3e-646b864ae445" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:00:50.257" UserId="56" Text="The [Nokia N9](http://www.gsmarena.com/nokia_n9-3398.php) (64GB version) goes for under €600. It's a bit of a niche phone since it has an uncommon operating system (MeeGo, a Linux distribution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3.9&quot; AMOLED 16M display (251 dpi)&#xD;&#xA;- 1 GHz Cortex A8&#xD;&#xA;- 8 MP, 3264 x 2448 pixels, Carl Zeiss optics, autofocus, dual LED flash&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest of the specs, see the link. The screen is slightly smaller than requested, but it's not that big of a difference. I think it's definitely a noteworthy candidate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="45" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="60b58b4a-8b34-42f0-9d65-97662d427a45" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:03:38.897" UserId="2" Comment="Grammar fixes, narrow it down to one question" Text="I have read in many places online that a good smartphone camera doesn't solely depend on the amount of pixels. So, what else should I look in order to choose a good camera in a smartphone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="46" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="60b58b4a-8b34-42f0-9d65-97662d427a45" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:03:38.897" UserId="2" Comment="Grammar fixes, narrow it down to one question" Text="What should I look for besides pixel when choosing a smartphone with a good camera?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="60b58b4a-8b34-42f0-9d65-97662d427a45" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:03:38.897" Comment="Proposed by 2 approved by 16 edit id of 2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="51" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5" RevisionGUID="9cee6410-16da-4bae-9daa-89bf8aa178e4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:08:47.740" UserId="22" Comment="added 357 characters in body" Text="The newly (August 2015) announced [Motorola X Pure Edition][1] **costs $400**, well below your price range, yet is a high-end modern smartphone. I think European branding is Moto X Style.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 5.7&quot; 1440p Quad HD display and front-facing stereo speakers (515 pixels per inch - better than Retina).&#xD;&#xA;* 21 MP camera&#xD;&#xA;* 3GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* microSD card (up to 128)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This phone matches and frequently exceeds 100% of your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is as close as you get to raw Android short of a Nexus device, rootability is almost guaranteed so local hotspot should also be doable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, as I noted, virtually every recent Android phone that's recent fits all your requirements, except from two 2015 Samsungs (Note5 and S6 have no SD card) and some late 2015 ultra high end flagships that edge higher than your $600 budget. If you include 2013/14 models that are now cheaper, you'll probably be happy with any of a couple dozen models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-x-pure-edition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="52" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="15" RevisionGUID="1373a30d-621e-456e-b3c7-26007ddf5cae" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:08:58.643" UserId="56" Comment="Price update." Text="The [Nokia N9](http://www.gsmarena.com/nokia_n9-3398.php) (64GB version) goes for under €600. The exact price will vary depending on where you get it, I'm not a price expert. It's a bit of a niche phone since it has an uncommon operating system (MeeGo, a Linux distribution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3.9&quot; AMOLED 16M display (251 dpi)&#xD;&#xA;- 1 GHz Cortex A8&#xD;&#xA;- 8 MP, 3264 x 2448 pixels, Carl Zeiss optics, autofocus, dual LED flash&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest of the specs, see the link. The screen is slightly smaller than requested, but it's not that big of a difference. I think it's definitely a noteworthy candidate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005Z32UI2/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all) currently lists 2 new ones between $400 and $500." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="54" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="f4a3f6d6-0fbb-4cda-9e27-855378ff65fc" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:15.307" UserId="40" Text="I wonder what the upsides are of using mechanical keyboards vs. traditional keyboards (i.e. membrane keyboards)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="55" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="f4a3f6d6-0fbb-4cda-9e27-855378ff65fc" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:15.307" UserId="40" Text="Do mechanical keyboards have any real advantage over traditional keyboards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="56" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="f4a3f6d6-0fbb-4cda-9e27-855378ff65fc" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:15.307" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="57" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="253653a3-7396-4816-8b5d-0c1c75b89cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:16.910" UserId="61" Text="I have used the [Logitech M570][1] for years, however when I compare the [DPI][2] on it to normal modern gaming mice it seems lackluster. I also would like to use all my fingers for buttons in games that require a lot of different keys and I can't help but feel they are wasted on the two + scroll that the mouse has.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also ordered a Japanize mouse call the [Elcom M-XT1URBK][3] with the promise of more DPI options and more buttons. Although I did like the way it was wired and I do currently use it I found three issues that lead me to look for other options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The extra button just slows down the trackball so movement can allows for more precision but is hard coded and can not be  key-bound.&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse acts like it has mouse acceleration [that makes gaming harder][4]. (I may be wrong about this but so far it looks like it.&#xD;&#xA; - The size is small I find my hands cramping after a few matches of an intense game (about an hours use). My older *&quot;M570&quot;* mouse did not do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a thumb trackball for gaming (aside from the two listed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/wireless-trackball-m570?crid=8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.howtogeek.com/182702/mouse-dpi-and-polling-rates-explained-do-they-matter-for-gaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www2.elecom.co.jp/products/M-XT1URBK.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16diwK6HWbI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="58" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="253653a3-7396-4816-8b5d-0c1c75b89cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:16.910" UserId="61" Text="What are my options for a thumb trackball for gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="59" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="253653a3-7396-4816-8b5d-0c1c75b89cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:13:16.910" UserId="61" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="313e3722-a28d-43bb-ad44-f5894f9dc3ac" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:17:19.470" UserId="15" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="61" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="86c23b87-ccb6-4530-8cd4-95c95b05e647" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:17:36.810" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse. I have found SmartNav, TrackerPro, HeadMouse Extreme and HeadMaster. How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="86c23b87-ccb6-4530-8cd4-95c95b05e647" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:17:36.810" UserId="40" Text="How do the head-tracking devices SmartNav, TrackerPro, HeadMouse Extreme and HeadMaster compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="63" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="86c23b87-ccb6-4530-8cd4-95c95b05e647" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:17:36.810" UserId="40" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;headtracking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="64" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="4299c639-5dd2-48e8-88f0-13587d47f32e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:17:43.527" UserId="15" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="65" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="26dc9a74-e511-4e16-8ea4-9b74b8ce5566" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:18:33.700" UserId="40" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="I wonder what the upsides are of using mechanical keyboards vs. traditional keyboards (i.e. membrane keyboards). I am mostly interested in using the keyboard to code." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="67" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="cb904e5e-97b7-4a79-bae1-28dd5be61b7d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:19:11.013" UserId="40" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="I wonder what the upsides are of using mechanical keyboards vs. traditional keyboards (i.e. membrane keyboards). I am mostly interested in using the keyboard to code, being productive and avoid getting RSI. I don't care much about the life expectancy (membrane keyboards live long enough for my use)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="68" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="20" RevisionGUID="4c261c5f-d690-46e1-8e95-b520ddd4e53a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:20:34.147" UserId="42" Text="I want to create a private cloud on my home, and for this I want to know a good NAS device that performs the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Put two or more hard drives on RAID 1.&#xD;&#xA; 2. As cheap as possible.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Allow to install software to manage NAS from cloud.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Energy efficient&#xD;&#xA; 5. Reliable, in the sense that this will be probably running 24/7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Allows to be accessed as a media server.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Option for data encryption." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="69" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="20" RevisionGUID="4c261c5f-d690-46e1-8e95-b520ddd4e53a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:20:34.147" UserId="42" Text="What alternative are available for cheap NAS devices that allows to put two hard drives in RAID 1?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="70" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="20" RevisionGUID="4c261c5f-d690-46e1-8e95-b520ddd4e53a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:20:34.147" UserId="42" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="71" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="b5ff2e79-ae48-4db1-ae47-c35d6714553b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:24:10.863" UserId="6" Comment="making less X vs Y" Text="I wonder what the advantages of using mechanical keyboards vs. traditional keyboards (i.e. membrane keyboards) are. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary uses will be using the keyboard to code, being productive and avoid getting RSI. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="72" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="b5ff2e79-ae48-4db1-ae47-c35d6714553b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:24:10.863" UserId="6" Comment="making less X vs Y" Text="What advantages do mechanical keyboards have over traditional keyboards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="73" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="b5ff2e79-ae48-4db1-ae47-c35d6714553b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:24:10.863" Comment="Proposed by 6 approved by 40 edit id of 4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="77" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="20" RevisionGUID="377d5a0d-f0d3-4bc7-8b31-0e67da2bc701" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:27:57.817" UserId="42" Comment="modified questions for clearness" Text="What options are available for cheap NAS devices that allows to put two hard drives in RAID 1?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="78" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="2ce5e99c-aca5-4aac-a263-4d17d8015a27" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:30:16.487" UserId="40" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse controlled with neck movements. I have found SmartNav, TrackerPro, HeadMouse Extreme and HeadMaster. How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor? My setting is multi-monitor (6). I am open to other devices as well (controlled with neck movements)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="80" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="21" RevisionGUID="49662b8f-eb66-4593-804f-b433508d4ced" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:38:20.243" UserId="40" Text="Look at [Xiaomi][1] (world's 4th largest smartphone maker) for reasonably priced phones with good specifications , they are often hard to beat price-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. the Xiaomi Redmi 2 Pro Smartphone meet all your required specifications and costs ~130 USD: 4G LTE 2GB / 16GB MSM8916 64bit Quad Core 1.2GHz / Android 4.4 / 4.7 inch HD OGS Screen / Dual Cameras. ([all specs](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_2-6992.php))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check out this [list of popular Xiaomi phones](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi-phones-f-80-0-r1-p1.php) for a wider choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaomi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="83" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="3c28f0bc-ba40-42a3-b174-f7e99c53baa4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:43:11.873" UserId="75" Text="I'm looking for a good, second 24&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;What **specifications** do I have to look for in general when buying monitors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know, because it's my second 24&quot; monitor, that it should fit well next to the existing one (same height, as small border as possible). But what else do I have to consider? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When buying my first monitor all I looked for was the right size and a good price. I ordered it online and therefore haven't seen it in person before. Would it be better to first look at a monitor in a shop before buying it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the specifications depend on the intended usage.&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it mostly for gaming (I'll use the *better* one as my main monitor) and surfing. If the types of games also matter: Mostly FPS, GTA V and some rather old strategy games such as Anno 1503 or C&amp;C Red Alert 2." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="84" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="3c28f0bc-ba40-42a3-b174-f7e99c53baa4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:43:11.873" UserId="75" Text="What should I consider when buying a (gaming) monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="3c28f0bc-ba40-42a3-b174-f7e99c53baa4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:43:11.873" UserId="75" Text="&lt;comparison&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="86" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="21" RevisionGUID="4f00c9c2-a9ba-4f71-8d70-a53bdb2b5f1e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:43:35.037" UserId="40" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="Look at [Xiaomi][1] (world's 4th largest smartphone maker) for reasonably priced phones with good specifications , they are often hard to beat price-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. the Xiaomi Redmi 2 Pro Smartphone meet all your required specifications and costs ~130 USD: 4G LTE, 2GB RAM, 16GB memory, MSM8916 64bit Quad Core 1.2GHz, Android 4.4, 4.7 inch HD OGS Screen, Dual Cameras. ([all specs](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_2-6992.php))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check out this [list of popular Xiaomi phones](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi-phones-f-80-0-r1-p1.php) for a wider choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaomi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="87" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="a441229a-93e4-4bef-b63f-bb8a1e08bdfd" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:43:56.273" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:2,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;michaelpri&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:42,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;scubaFun&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:19,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;John Conde&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:75,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alex&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="89" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10" RevisionGUID="35938c38-dd54-49aa-aebd-fe4ff87b6790" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:45:37.410" UserId="49" Comment="added more information about different zoom types" Text="General guidance for [buying cameras alone][1] can be applied here. There are several important aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Pixels**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the resolution that the image sensor is capable of capturing. The greater the number, the more detail you'll get in your image. This does, however, combine with the next point:&#xD;&#xA;- **Sensor size**  &#xD;&#xA;  The bigger the sensor, the bigger the pixels can be. And the bigger the pixels, the better your image quality. 'Nuff said.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom type**  &#xD;&#xA;  Only one part of zoom, this. Look at optical vs. digital zoom - in short, optical zoom uses lenses to make the image look closer to the sensor, whereas digital simply scales up the image. Optical results in better quality because the image size stays the same, but it's generally bulky because of the need for a moving lens. Digital on the other hand scales everything up, loosing detail and resolution and also making noise more apparent. Most phones use digital simply because they don't have room to include a zoom lens in their cameras.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom range**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the number like that comes in the format &quot;8x digital zoom&quot; or &quot;32x optical zoom&quot;. The bigger the number, the further away you can sense things from. Take care, though - big digital zooms often result in pixelated images. With a phone, you can often simply get closer to your subject - an 8x is often adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/buying-advice/top-tips-for-deciding-what-camera-to-buy-13255" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="90" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10" RevisionGUID="35938c38-dd54-49aa-aebd-fe4ff87b6790" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:45:37.410" Comment="Proposed by 49 approved by 8 edit id of 5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="92" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="a7f9e906-05e4-420e-a885-aa18aa96b0db" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:54:28.083" UserId="61" Comment="Japanize???  whats with that typo!" Text="I have used the [Logitech M570][1] for years, however when I compare the [DPI][2] on it to normal modern gaming mice it seems lackluster. I also would like to use all my fingers for buttons in games that require a lot of different keys and I can't help but feel they are wasted on the two + scroll that the mouse has.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also ordered a Japanese mouse call the [Elcom M-XT1URBK][3] with the promise of more DPI options and more buttons. Although I did like the way it was wired and I do currently use it I found three issues that lead me to look for other options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The extra button just slows down the trackball so movement can allows for more precision but is hard-coded and can not be  key-bound.&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse acts like it has mouse acceleration [that makes gaming harder][4]. (I may be wrong about this but so far it looks like it.)&#xD;&#xA; - The size is small I find my hands cramping after a few matches of an intense game (about an hours use). My older *&quot;M570&quot;* mouse did not do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a thumb trackball for gaming (aside from the two listed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/wireless-trackball-m570?crid=8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.howtogeek.com/182702/mouse-dpi-and-polling-rates-explained-do-they-matter-for-gaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www2.elecom.co.jp/products/M-XT1URBK.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16diwK6HWbI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="96" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="25" RevisionGUID="79f35f81-7c51-4128-821b-d1dbac9b9243" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:02:22.643" UserId="87" Text="I am building an ERP solution using Microsoft .net and SQL server 2012.  I would expect about 20-30 users and my client would like to buy his own server rather than go with a cloud based server. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the performance needs of a small enterprise with about 5 concurrent users using a web application (not directly accessing the server) which is the cheapest or the lowest configuration server that I could recommend. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering if hot swappable components would be essential as the server is used primarily for an ERP and can be taken down if there is a component failure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was suggested a Dell Power Edge T20 Server, which seems to fit the client's budget, but not sure if there are better options for that sort of a budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="97" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="25" RevisionGUID="79f35f81-7c51-4128-821b-d1dbac9b9243" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:02:22.643" UserId="87" Text="Server Hardware Recommendation for ERP Application" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="98" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="25" RevisionGUID="79f35f81-7c51-4128-821b-d1dbac9b9243" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:02:22.643" UserId="87" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="99" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="26" RevisionGUID="3e886bff-5624-4c59-8572-ab3b0fbe0263" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:02:57.323" UserId="74" Text="## [QNAP TS-231][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using a TS-212 just about 24/7 for two years. I was happy enough with it that I recently bought a second QNAP device, albeit one that has 4 drive bays (TS-451). It appears that the TS-212 has been phased out in favor of the TS-231, but the specifications appear to be very similar. I think it will meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. _Put two or more hard drives on RAID 1._&#xD;&#xA; - There are two hot-swappable drive bays, both RAID 0 and 1 are supported&#xD;&#xA;2. _As cheap as possible._&#xD;&#xA; - It's currently available for [$179.00 on Amazon][2]. Admittedly, it's not the cheapest dual bay NAS available, Synology's DS214se is currently [$149.00][3].&#xD;&#xA;3. _Allow to install software to manage NAS from cloud._&#xD;&#xA; - The NAS comes with QNAP's custom web interface. That includes _[myQNAPcloud Connect][4]_ which &quot;helps you access the published services of the Turbo NAS quickly and securely on the Internet.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;4. _Energy efficient_&#xD;&#xA; - Power consumption is [listed at][5] 9.78W in standby, 20.56W in operation&#xD;&#xA;5. _Reliable, in the sense that this will be probably running 24/7._&#xD;&#xA; - As I already mentioned, mine has run 24/7 for two years without disruptions. The only time it goes down is when I lose power, and I can always rely on it to boot back up and launch the services I have configured.&#xD;&#xA;6. _Allows to be accessed as a media server._&#xD;&#xA; - There are a few options here. The &quot;QNAP Ecosystem&quot; has apps; there are [many media server utilities available][6]. I just use it as a file server to connect from Windows machines, that works well enough for me needs when accessing media.&#xD;&#xA;7. _Option for data encryption._&#xD;&#xA; - [Supported][7], but I have never used it so I cannot speak personally to that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Potential Disadvantages ###&#xD;&#xA; - The RAM is soldered and not upgradeable. Other QNAP models allow you to upgrade the RAM, but you're stuck with 512MB for this one.&#xD;&#xA; - It's an ARM processor. The OS is a custom QNAP flavor of Linux so it's easily customizable if you need to do something beyond the user friendly web UI, but any custom utilities you install need to support ARM processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.qnap.com/i/useng/product/model.php?II=155&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/QNAP-TS-231-Personal-Mobile-Support/dp/B00O3Y7F02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441824421&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ts-231&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Synology-DiskStation-Diskless-Private-DS214se/dp/B00FWURI8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441824393&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=DS214se&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.qnap.com/i/useng/product/model.php?II=155&amp;event=5&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.qnap.com/i/useng/product/model.php?II=155&amp;event=2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ok6x3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://docs.qnap.com/nas/4.1/Home/en/index.html?encrypted_file_system.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="27" RevisionGUID="e1b3a06d-fb44-4db9-8a62-96425c2f3c6f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:09:49.393" UserId="30" Text="I want a smartphone.  At this point I don’t care about hardware specifications, features, design, price etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only requirement is that the smartphone ships without proprietary software.  &#xD;&#xA;But I read somewhere that there’s currently no alternative to certain proprietary firmware/drivers, so if that’s the case, it would work for me if &quot;only&quot; the operating system and everything on top of it is FLOSS (while layers below the OS may be proprietary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The pre-installed operating system as well as all pre-installed apps/modifications have to be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * The smartphone has to ship like that. Buying a smartphone with pre-installed proprietary software, deleting it, and installing a FLOSS OS is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * What matters is what’s pre-installed, not what could be installed by the user (so it’s fine if a pre-installed app store offers proprietary apps, as long as the user has the choice not to install them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The license has to be [approved by the FSF and/or the OSI](http://opensource.stackexchange.com/a/383/138).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It must be a sealed/unused product (so not offered by someone who buys smartphones with proprietary software, installs a FLOSS system and resells them). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optional (for bonus points!):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Everything’s FLOSS, including firmware/drivers.&#xD;&#xA;* Support installing other operating systems manually (ideally without losing warranty).&#xD;&#xA;* [Free/libre/open hardware](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-source_hardware).&#xD;&#xA;* Ethically produced: [fair trade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_trade), avoiding [conflict minerals](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conflict_resource#Conflict_minerals), …" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="101" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="27" RevisionGUID="e1b3a06d-fb44-4db9-8a62-96425c2f3c6f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:09:49.393" UserId="30" Text="Smartphone that ships without pre-installed proprietary software?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="102" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="27" RevisionGUID="e1b3a06d-fb44-4db9-8a62-96425c2f3c6f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:09:49.393" UserId="30" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="103" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="35ca82a8-32fb-4562-8e1c-834b2926d93e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:11:21.640" UserId="1" Comment="improve title" Text="What should I look for besides pixel density/count when choosing a smartphone with a good camera?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="104" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="35ca82a8-32fb-4562-8e1c-834b2926d93e" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:11:21.640" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 16 edit id of 6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="33a40484-50cf-40b4-863e-8c0ac08c6e1b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:19:49.083" UserId="84" Text="I have a Lorex NVR and half a dozen of their [1080p PoE (Cat6) IP Cameras](https://www.lorextechnology.com/downloads/ip-cameras/LNB2151/LNB2151_Series_Specs_R2.pdf) that are now over two years old.  Image quality leaves something to be desired, and I'd like to get adjustable lenses so I can fine-tune the field of view.  Features I care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Best 1080p image quality (although the NVR is set to only record on each at 15fps)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Best on-camera low-light illumination&#xD;&#xA; 1. Zoom lens so I can manually adjust field-of-view&#xD;&#xA; 1. Weather sealed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="33a40484-50cf-40b4-863e-8c0ac08c6e1b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:19:49.083" UserId="84" Text="1080p PoE IP Camera for NVR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="107" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="33a40484-50cf-40b4-863e-8c0ac08c6e1b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:19:49.083" UserId="84" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="29" RevisionGUID="733cb278-14cb-48cf-b3a8-4fba1778779d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:22:22.013" UserId="1" Text="We're looking for a new desk for an FOH house-of-worship setting. Right now we're using an [Allen &amp; Heath GL2200](http://www.allen-heath.com/ahproducts/gl2200/), 32-channel. We love it. It's done everything we want, but it's getting up there in years and we need more aux sends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - We have a fairly flexible budget, but system under $10k would be best.&#xD;&#xA; - It would be installed permanently, we don't need to flightcase it.&#xD;&#xA; - We already have clean power&#xD;&#xA; - We'd really need to have at least 10 aux sends, plus stereo mains output.&#xD;&#xA; - We'd like to have more inputs, but we've gotten along fine with 32. This is a want, not a need.&#xD;&#xA; - It shouldn't be any bigger physically than our GL2200, otherwise we have to start moving things around in the booth and we don't want to do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Volunteers are (exclusively) using this, so it would be nice to have something with a not-terribly-steep learning curve. We're open to (and leaning towards) a digital desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do I need to consider? Does anyone have experience with something that would be a good fit?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="110" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="29" RevisionGUID="733cb278-14cb-48cf-b3a8-4fba1778779d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:22:22.013" UserId="1" Text="Sound board to replace a GL2200 in a house-of-worship FOH setting?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="29" RevisionGUID="733cb278-14cb-48cf-b3a8-4fba1778779d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:22:22.013" UserId="1" Text="&lt;mixing-console&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="114" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="30" RevisionGUID="ec6725f5-b4e4-4dcd-b06a-eda01f3e31a6" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:23:54.993" UserId="67" Text="There are essentially two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A USB hub with power control, such as [this one](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush), which was designed for this purpose. It seems like some other USB hubs can do this too, check [this question](http://stackoverflow.com/q/3246077/4428462) over at StackOverflow for specifics and possibly other methods of doing this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* DIY, with a USB-controlled relay to switch the power to the usb device on and off, see [this blog post](http://pintant.cat/2012/05/12/power-off-usb-device/) for an illustration of how someone did it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Maybe fix the problem with your usb device ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="31" RevisionGUID="b3d7fe27-da27-4a2d-9fe0-623be652598f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:30:42.987" UserId="84" Text="Looking for a &quot;passive&quot; GPS tracking device.  Everything I have found on the market is obsolete and overpriced, especially compared to the &quot;active&quot; trackers that are essentially cellular devices that respond and/or broadcast their location.  The drawback to an active device is that it typically requires a data contract and is much more traceable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best of the bad options I have found in the passive arena is the [Tracking Key](http://www.landairsea.com/gps-tracker/gps-tracking-key) but it is widely panned because LAS's products are not weather-sealed (&quot;just put it in a plastic bag&quot; is their suggestion), their support is abysmal, and all cost at least $150!  (There's no question that in volume a controller, GPS module, USB interface, battery, magnet, and rubberized jacket should command a market price of at most $100.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a passive GPS tracker with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Weather sealed&#xD;&#xA; 1. (Optional) magnetic attachment&#xD;&#xA; 1. Antenna works when installed under a vehicle&#xD;&#xA; 1. Battery-efficient: I.e., it goes to sleep when not moved for a certain period.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="117" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="31" RevisionGUID="b3d7fe27-da27-4a2d-9fe0-623be652598f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:30:42.987" UserId="84" Text="Passive GPS tracker/logger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="118" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="31" RevisionGUID="b3d7fe27-da27-4a2d-9fe0-623be652598f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:30:42.987" UserId="84" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;passive-tracker&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="32" RevisionGUID="cbea4b71-fc9b-46a6-aea1-2b8844cc24da" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:32:03.957" UserId="92" Text="[Blueproducts][1] has a great product line, I guarantee they will have a design you like. There are so many to choose from so I won't go into much detail here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally have the [Blu Studio 5.0C][2] which is a bit older now but when I bought it brand new a year ago, for $125 plus shipping, it exceeded all expectations. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bluproducts.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phonearena.com/phones/BLU-Studio-5.0-C-HD_id8805" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="120" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="33" RevisionGUID="d16c210d-37cc-4715-a577-709141e69ced" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:34:00.183" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="34" RevisionGUID="3b82cfbb-04b1-4d86-a476-87e6a61b6299" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:34:00.183" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="35" RevisionGUID="b9feef89-97c8-4fc0-9a5a-34ebb45c7150" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:35:45.117" UserId="1" Text="I have a relatively new HDTV I'm working with, and I'd like a device to remotely control the TV through [HDMI-CEC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#CEC). Ideally, I would be able to sit back and have a web console to control those things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I have WiFi, Ethernet would be a stretch to get to the TV&#xD;&#xA; - My budget is ~$50-$100. Lower is better.&#xD;&#xA; - Bonus points if it works over the open Internet, with proper authentication. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a DVD player and DIRECTV box attached, if it matters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="35" RevisionGUID="b9feef89-97c8-4fc0-9a5a-34ebb45c7150" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:35:45.117" UserId="1" Text="Network connected device to manipulate HDMI-CEC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="124" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="35" RevisionGUID="b9feef89-97c8-4fc0-9a5a-34ebb45c7150" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:35:45.117" UserId="1" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="126" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="f3c7a479-2057-4d73-a71c-f95af0ee6278" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:30.473" UserId="84" Text="I'm sick of trying to use my mouse to do Photoshop drawing.  I know the standard is to to use a digitizer (a.k.a., pen tablet), but I don't want to sink hundreds of dollars into one when I really just need something more ergonomic and responsive than a mouse for some details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any obvious entry-level digitizers, or is it not worth it until I'm ready to pay up for the pro-grade digitizers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="127" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="f3c7a479-2057-4d73-a71c-f95af0ee6278" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:30.473" UserId="84" Text="Digitizer pen tablet for Photoshop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="128" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="f3c7a479-2057-4d73-a71c-f95af0ee6278" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:30.473" UserId="84" Text="&lt;digitizer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="129" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="37" RevisionGUID="5770aa72-ae12-4ac2-a761-d6a09816b549" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:49.770" UserId="78" Text="In 2012 I've bought a Samsung Series 9 X4D ultrabook with a 15&quot; screen. I'm still quite satisfied with this product. Currently, I am searching for an additional notebook with similar requirements. Unfortunately, Samsung has withdrawn from the European notebook market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focus lies on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - haptics and workmanship &#xD;&#xA; - matte screen with at least 14&quot; and a resolution of 1600x900 or better&#xD;&#xA; - SSD only&#xD;&#xA; - capacity&#xD;&#xA; - touchpad and keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - weight&#xD;&#xA; - round about 1000€ / 1100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU and graphics power are of lesser importance. It does not necessarily have to be labeled as an ultrabook either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only devices I've found so far are the Lenovo Yoga and L-Series. Are there further solutions for these requirements?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="130" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="37" RevisionGUID="5770aa72-ae12-4ac2-a761-d6a09816b549" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:49.770" UserId="78" Text="A replacement for the Samsung Series 9 and Ativ Book 9 15&quot; ultrabooks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="131" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="37" RevisionGUID="5770aa72-ae12-4ac2-a761-d6a09816b549" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:49.770" UserId="78" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="38" RevisionGUID="b5dbb133-07dd-4949-9b00-bd499c46ee29" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:43:44.147" UserId="49" Text="I recently got a [Wacom Intuos Pen Small][1], and I love it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything I need it to do and it skips out on all the extra buttons and features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price tag comes in at about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the area that you can draw in is about 6&quot;x4&quot; inches. The actual size is about 8&quot;x7&quot; It might seem a bit small, but it's really plenty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1024 levels of presure sensitivity. I know some of the more expensive models have more, but this is enough for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside, is that it doesn't have an eraser, but for me, it's easy enough to just use a hotkey to switch it out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.wacom.com/us/en/product/CTL480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="39" RevisionGUID="a5f626a4-65f0-4a43-bddd-275eeab33d48" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:44:23.573" UserId="94" Text="Broadly-speaking, it would be silly to consider anything other than a digital desk at this point. That said, there will be a learning curve for people that are used to analog desks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been operating a Yamaha [LS9-32](http://www.yamahaproaudio.com/global/en/products/mixers/ls9/index.jsp) at church for the past four years or so, and have found it to be an excellent board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, for your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We have a fairly flexible budget, but system under $10k would be best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ours was purchased four years ago for ~$8500 US. I'm not certain, but logic says that it would be cheaper than that now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We'd really need to have at least 10 aux sends, plus stereo mains&#xD;&#xA;&gt; output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 16 aux sends in addition to the stereo mains.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; We'd like to have more inputs, but we've gotten along fine with 32.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This is a want, not a need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LS9-32 has 32 faders and 32 inputs on-board, and you can add an additional 32 inputs via an external digital input module if needed. The additional 32 channels are accessible on the desk by switching from the &quot;1-32 Layer&quot; to the &quot;33-64 Layer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It shouldn't be any bigger physically than our GL2200, otherwise we&#xD;&#xA;&gt; have to start moving things around in the booth and we don't want to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LS9-32 is roughly 35&quot;x20&quot;. I wasn't able to find the specs of the GL2200 to compare size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the above, here are a few high-level features that I enjoy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Each channel has a 4-band, fully-sweepable parametric EQ, and two dynamics &quot;slots&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- The channel dynamics slots can be used for compressors, gates, limiters, de-essers, etc.&#xD;&#xA;- The LS9 has on-board effects &quot;racks&quot;, with a wide variety of reverbs, delays, choruses, etc.&#xD;&#xA;- On-board recorder, with inputs you can assign arbitrarily to discrete channels, auxes, or mains&#xD;&#xA;- Motorized faders along with a generous scene memory&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Guest mode&quot; - with this, nearly all of the boards features are either unavailable or locked. Prevents guests or new users from doing something stupid&#xD;&#xA;- The Yamaha &quot;StageMix&quot; iPad app. **This is huge**. It's a free app that connects to your board via Wifi. Nearly all of the functionality of the board is available through the app. This lets me do things like be on-stage during sound check to listen and adjust monitor mixes. Also, I can roam the floor, on-axis with the PA and hear the actual mix instead of having to guess from the sound loft.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our sound staff is exclusive non-pro volunteers (including myself), and while there was a bit of an adjustment period, all of them were able to pick up the basics fairly quickly, and have been expanding their usage and knowledge of the board each time they're on the schedule.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="40" RevisionGUID="2528ea06-9e34-4e21-afd7-6bca948212d6" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:45:32.747" UserId="84" Text="No question: Get a Wacom Intuous.  Available for under $100, this will provide all the key features serious graphic artists and photographers use in Photoshop, Illustrator, and the like: high resolution pressure sensitivity, touch sensitivity.  It has a large enough surface that you might never feel the need to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And you may even find it to be a useful replacement for your mouse in more traditional applications." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="39" RevisionGUID="7215f368-26bb-4c75-b29a-ba76f773227c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:49:46.973" UserId="94" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Broadly-speaking, it would be silly to consider anything other than a digital desk at this point. That said, there will be a learning curve for people that are used to analog desks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been operating a Yamaha [LS9-32](http://www.yamahaproaudio.com/global/en/products/mixers/ls9/index.jsp) at church for the past four years or so, and have found it to be an excellent board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, for your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We have a fairly flexible budget, but system under $10k would be best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ours was purchased four years ago for ~$8500 US. I'm not certain, but logic says that it would be cheaper than that now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We'd really need to have at least 10 aux sends, plus stereo mains&#xD;&#xA;&gt; output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 16 aux sends in addition to the stereo mains.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; We'd like to have more inputs, but we've gotten along fine with 32.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This is a want, not a need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LS9-32 has 32 faders and 32 inputs on-board, and you can add an additional 32 inputs via an external digital input module if needed. The additional 32 channels are accessible on the desk by switching from the &quot;1-32 Layer&quot; to the &quot;33-64 Layer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It shouldn't be any bigger physically than our GL2200, otherwise we&#xD;&#xA;&gt; have to start moving things around in the booth and we don't want to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LS9-32 is roughly 35&quot;x20&quot;. I wasn't able to find the specs of the GL2200 to compare size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the above, here are a few high-level features that I enjoy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Each channel has a 4-band, fully-sweepable parametric EQ, and two dynamics &quot;slots&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- The channel dynamics slots can be used for compressors, gates, limiters, de-essers, etc.&#xD;&#xA;- The LS9 has on-board effects &quot;racks&quot;, with a wide variety of reverbs, delays, choruses, etc.&#xD;&#xA;- On-board recorder, with inputs you can assign arbitrarily to discrete channels, auxes, or mains&#xD;&#xA;- Motorized faders along with a generous scene memory&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Guest mode&quot; - with this, nearly all of the board's features are either unavailable or locked. Prevents guests or new users from doing something stupid&#xD;&#xA;- The Yamaha &quot;StageMix&quot; iPad app. **This is huge**. It's a free app that connects to your board via Wifi. Nearly all of the functionality of the board is available through the app. This lets me do things like be on-stage during sound check to listen and adjust monitor mixes. Also, I can roam the floor, on-axis with the PA and hear the actual mix instead of having to guess from the sound loft.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our sound staff is exclusively non-pro volunteers (including myself), and while there was a bit of an adjustment period, all of them were able to pick up the basics fairly quickly, and have been expanding their usage and knowledge of the board each time they're on the schedule.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="32" RevisionGUID="960a526a-9bfe-41e8-afd2-cc442e562b9c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:51:50.883" UserId="92" Comment="Added specs for the lazy." Text="[Blueproducts][1] has a great product line, I guarantee they will have a design you like. There are so many to choose from so I won't go into much detail here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally have the [Blu Studio 5.0C][2] which is a bit older now but when I bought it brand new a year ago, for $125 plus shipping, it exceeded all expectations. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Android (4.4)&#xD;&#xA; - 5.0 inches&#xD;&#xA; - 720 x 1280 pixels&#xD;&#xA; - 294 ppi&#xD;&#xA; - 8 megapixel camera (rear)&#xD;&#xA; - 2 megapixel camera (front)&#xD;&#xA; - Quad core, 1300 MHz, ARM Cortex-A7&#xD;&#xA; - 1024 MB RAM / 4096 MB ROM&#xD;&#xA; - 2000 mAh battery&#xD;&#xA; - Dual sim card&#xD;&#xA; - GSM 850, 900, 1800, 1900 MHz&#xD;&#xA; - UMTS 850, 1700/2100, 1900 MHz&#xD;&#xA; - HSDPA+ (4G) 21.1 Mbit/s, EDGE, GPRS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bluproducts.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phonearena.com/phones/BLU-Studio-5.0-C-HD_id8805" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="38" RevisionGUID="5bb8744b-edf6-48cb-8ed9-c7832325e2a5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:52:13.367" UserId="49" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I recently got a [Wacom Intuos Pen Small][1], and I love it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything I need it to do and it skips out on all the extra buttons and features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price tag comes in at about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the area that you can draw in is about 6&quot;x4&quot; inches. The actual size is about 8&quot;x7&quot; It might seem a bit small, but it's really plenty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1024 levels of presure sensitivity. I know some of the more expensive models have more, but this is enough for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has four buttons at the top for &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Shift&lt;/kbd&gt; and the Windows Key. Each of which can be customized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside, is that it doesn't have an eraser, but for me, it's easy enough to just use a hotkey to switch it out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.wacom.com/us/en/product/CTL480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="7cd471df-e42c-437d-9152-e10e0d1f7f2f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:54:16.277" UserId="70" Text="I see many people talking about how they have built water cooling into their system.  Is there any real benefit in performance by doing this or is it purely for aesthetics? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="141" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="7cd471df-e42c-437d-9152-e10e0d1f7f2f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:54:16.277" UserId="70" Text="Aside from aesthetics, is there a benefit to water cooling?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="7cd471df-e42c-437d-9152-e10e0d1f7f2f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:54:16.277" UserId="70" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="42" RevisionGUID="e6f5d790-a0f8-459e-95da-6a79a2a4e93a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:57:54.133" UserId="106" Text="I'd like to fit a gaming PC in my living room, and am looking into small form factor ones. &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;I have been recommended the Alienware X51 series whose I appreciate the shape reminiscent of a gaming console, &#xD;&#xA;About Alienware one question I cannot find an answer for is if it would be safe to stack my PS3 on top of it (I do not have a lot of space in the living room)? I heard that the PC can get quite hot.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I also want to consider alternatives.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Are there other PC cases with shapes similar to the X51?  &#xD;&#xA;Most of the Mini-Itx have more like a &quot;brick&quot; shape, and seem harder to fit in the living room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="144" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="42" RevisionGUID="e6f5d790-a0f8-459e-95da-6a79a2a4e93a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:57:54.133" UserId="106" Text="Recommended small form factor gaming PCs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="42" RevisionGUID="e6f5d790-a0f8-459e-95da-6a79a2a4e93a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:57:54.133" UserId="106" Text="&lt;comparison&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="43" RevisionGUID="e484ceba-f863-4307-bdd2-e94558258a63" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:59:38.770" UserId="111" Text="For a hardware project I'm looking for a simple robust Bluetooth controller on which I can solder buttons. I found the [bluefruit ez key][1] but I don't like it that I can't change the name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've googled quite a lot but cannot find any alternative. Are there any other standalone Bluetooth controllers around? Or is it possible to build one yourself?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.adafruit.com/product/1535 &quot;BlueFruit ez key&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="43" RevisionGUID="e484ceba-f863-4307-bdd2-e94558258a63" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:59:38.770" UserId="111" Text="Standalone Bluetooth controller recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="148" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="43" RevisionGUID="e484ceba-f863-4307-bdd2-e94558258a63" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:59:38.770" UserId="111" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="44" RevisionGUID="95485450-eca2-4aeb-bfec-47c1f8669949" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:01:54.503" UserId="1" Text="We have a couple pairs of headphones we use with our GL2200 for listening to PFL/AFL during a live church service. One pair works fine, the other... does not. We want to replace the pair that doesn't work fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Play nice with the GL2200, and ideally the digital board we're hoping to get at some point in the future&#xD;&#xA; - Have good isolation (I've had good experiences with active systems, but if it just has very very good 'physical' isolation, that'd work too)&#xD;&#xA; - Not be terribly expensive (&lt; $250 would be best)&#xD;&#xA; - Have a volume adjustment on the headphones themselves. We have two sets of headphones coming off the board, and one volume control for both of them. &#xD;&#xA; - If the cabling on them is non-removable, have a decently long coiled cable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="44" RevisionGUID="95485450-eca2-4aeb-bfec-47c1f8669949" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:01:54.503" UserId="1" Text="Engineer's headphones for PFL/AFL in a live sound environment?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="44" RevisionGUID="95485450-eca2-4aeb-bfec-47c1f8669949" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:01:54.503" UserId="1" Text="&lt;mixing-console&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="152" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="38" RevisionGUID="8efb934e-7b0e-46f7-b397-bf6b0fc3423a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:05:30.780" UserId="49" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="I recently got a [Wacom Intuos Pen Small][1], and I love it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything I need it to do and it skips out on all the extra buttons and features that probably aren't needed anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price tag comes in at about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the area that you can draw in is about 6&quot;x4&quot; inches. The actual size is about 8&quot;x7&quot; It might seem a bit small, but it's really plenty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1024 levels of presure sensitivity. I know some of the more expensive models have more, but this is enough for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has four buttons at the top for &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Shift&lt;/kbd&gt; and the Windows Key. Each of which can be customized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside, is that it doesn't have an eraser, but for me, it's easy enough to just use a hotkey to switch it out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.wacom.com/us/en/product/CTL480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="a01258ad-cbad-4b43-a5de-020237b80346" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:06:16.447" UserId="74" Comment="the comparison tag is too much of a meta tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="154" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="a01258ad-cbad-4b43-a5de-020237b80346" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:06:16.447" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 75 edit id of 11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="155" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="3e7b09f0-d5f5-4beb-94cf-055ddf8dcb75" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:06:26.487" UserId="74" Comment="Specify PC" Text="Aside from aesthetics, is there a benefit to PC water cooling?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="156" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="3e7b09f0-d5f5-4beb-94cf-055ddf8dcb75" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:06:26.487" UserId="74" Comment="Specify PC" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="157" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="3e7b09f0-d5f5-4beb-94cf-055ddf8dcb75" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:06:26.487" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 70 edit id of 12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="165" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="c8765e40-7e45-4bc7-9115-3fef0ac3333a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:11:58.473" UserId="84" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="Digitizer (a.k.a. graphics tablet) for Photoshop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="166" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="c8765e40-7e45-4bc7-9115-3fef0ac3333a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:11:58.473" UserId="84" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;digitizer&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="46" RevisionGUID="c36200ad-e68c-419c-a5e3-265cc391f638" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:18:52.647" UserId="70" Text="If you are planning to use it mainly for FPS gaming, and you are competitive in it, you are going to want to have a monitor that is 60hz - 144hz with a low response time &lt;5ms.  The 60hz - 144hz is your refresh rate and it won't matter what graphics card you have if you have a monitor that is only running at 30hz.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're not on the competitive side then here are the different questions to answer to help you decide on what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - What resolution? (1080p, 1440p, 4k)&#xD;&#xA; - What refresh rate? (60hz, 144hz)&#xD;&#xA; - What type of panel? (IPS, TN)&#xD;&#xA; - What size screen? (You have already answered this in your question but still something to think about)&#xD;&#xA; - What aspect ratio? (16:9, 21:9, etc.) &#xD;&#xA; - What size of a bezel? (You mentioned this as well saying you want a thin border)&#xD;&#xA; - Price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A site that I use to check some of these is [pcpartpicker.com][1]. You will be able to filter on all of these things directly from their site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/monitor/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="169" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="38" RevisionGUID="82d218e2-03a1-4800-bd11-a11bf9ec2757" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:23:15.990" UserId="49" Comment="deleted 125 characters in body" Text="I recently got a [Wacom Intuos Pen Small][1], and I love it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything I need it to do and it skips out on all the extra buttons and features that probably aren't needed anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price tag comes in at about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the area that you can draw in is about 6&quot;x4&quot; inches. The actual size is about 8&quot;x7&quot; It might seem a bit small, but it's really plenty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1024 levels of presure sensitivity. I know some of the more expensive models have more, but this is enough for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has four buttons at the top for &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;Shift&lt;/kbd&gt; and the Windows Key. Each of which can be customized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.wacom.com/us/en/product/CTL480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="47" RevisionGUID="e8592e78-8f43-4d49-a74d-fc2fe8d513b3" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:34:04.180" UserId="58" Text="Water-cooling is better than traditional fan-cooling.  &#xD;&#xA;Using it is reasonable if you have hardware that gets hot very often and reaches its temperature limits; and you can't cool it down in traditional ways. Another (bad) reason is something like &quot;hey people look, I have watercooling because its cool&quot;. And the last reason is - it's not noisy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And what about performance?  &#xD;&#xA;Hardware may slow down on high temperatures. That includes CPU, GPU.  &#xD;&#xA;Hardware can get damaged on high temperatures. For example, HDD (yes, it's max temperatures are usually about 55-60C, whereas CPU can be 70-100C), especially HDD on notebooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no performance gain when using watercooling. But there can be performance loss or damage if such temperature-sensitive devices don't get enough cooling. And then watercooling is a good option to re-gain the lost performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="48" RevisionGUID="d2438123-38a9-4e17-99b9-ca69e35bc017" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:40:30.147" UserId="123" Text="I am looking for a smartphone that I can use for testing and developing my Android app on. Any Android version above 2.3 is okay and any screen size is good. I currently have a Nexus 7 and want another, smaller, screen size. Are there any good smartphones at this price point?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="172" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="48" RevisionGUID="d2438123-38a9-4e17-99b9-ca69e35bc017" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:40:30.147" UserId="123" Text="Smartphones under $100 for Android Development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="173" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="48" RevisionGUID="d2438123-38a9-4e17-99b9-ca69e35bc017" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:40:30.147" UserId="123" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="49" RevisionGUID="af08b00d-c2c4-4ee8-a798-c4ef69e8002d" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:48:06.990" UserId="40" Text="Look at [Xiaomi][1] (world's 4th largest smartphone maker) for reasonably priced phones with good specifications , they are often hard to beat price-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. the Xiaomi Redmi 2 Pro Smartphone meet all your required specifications and costs ~130 USD: 4G LTE, 2GB RAM, 16GB memory, MSM8916 64bit Quad Core 1.2GHz, Android 4.4, 4.7 inch HD OGS Screen, Dual Cameras. ([all specs](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_2-6992.php))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check out this [list of popular Xiaomi phones](http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi-phones-f-80-0-r1-p1.php) for a wider choice, some are slightly cheaper (e.g. Xiaomi Redmi 2A A at [102 USD](http://www.dx.com/p/xiaomi-redmi-2a-android-4-4-quad-core-4g-tdd-lte-phone-w-4-7-ips-hd-8gb-rom-8-0mp-camera-black-388191)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaomi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="176" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="fe9de953-8e29-44f2-968f-7e8be5c77c86" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:56:00.950" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:19,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;John Conde&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Thomas Owens&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:125,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;TanMath&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:130,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Tom&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:129,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;GµårÐïåñ&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="177" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="6f6727ad-71e2-4526-9641-793def83a7a7" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:56:01.217" UserId="128" Text="The Intel Core i7 processor has a feature known as &quot;hyper-threading.&quot; Quoting their [website][1]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel® Hyper-Threading Technology (Intel® HT Technology)1 uses processor resources more efficiently, enabling multiple threads to run on each core. As a performance feature, it also increases processor throughput, improving overall performance on threaded software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, this sounds a bit like an advertisement, and it doesn't show whether it has any less desirable qualities to it, such as increased power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What exactly is hyper-threading? When should I buy a processor that utilizes this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/hyper-threading/hyper-threading-technology.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="178" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="6f6727ad-71e2-4526-9641-793def83a7a7" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:56:01.217" UserId="128" Text="Should I find a processor with &quot;hyperthreading?&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="179" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="6f6727ad-71e2-4526-9641-793def83a7a7" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:56:01.217" UserId="128" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="bb00db60-d48a-4d50-a6b0-d57386f3ae4b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:57:44.543" UserId="100" Text="I have many video output that I would like to simultaneously overview with a control monitor but I don't want to buy a monitor for each video output itself so I'm looking for a similar solution we can see at surveillance systems where the monitor is connected to a DVR unit which processes multiple camera images and we can see them displayed in some kind of grid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVR monitor][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device for regular VGA or HDMI output? It doesn't matter if it is built into the monitor itself or if it has for example 4 or more inputs with one output I can connect to a monitor. It would be nice if the output layout could be configurable to different layout style like in the picture below, but it isn't a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Multiple video output layout styles][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ga1jV.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FbldS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="181" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="bb00db60-d48a-4d50-a6b0-d57386f3ae4b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:57:44.543" UserId="100" Text="Is there a monitor or converter that I can use to watch 4 video output in one screen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="bb00db60-d48a-4d50-a6b0-d57386f3ae4b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T20:57:44.543" UserId="100" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;&lt;broadcasting&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="52" RevisionGUID="8412973a-9994-42eb-8a84-4609e2166c22" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:03:45.200" UserId="122" Text="There are many many more options if you build your own system, and you can then be more flexible in terms of the components and the machine that you end up with.  For example: are you looking to max out the graphics card? do you want to be able to upgrade said card relatively easily in a year? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other piece of advice is to not get too hung up on definitions.  The HTPC cases are going to be more like what you are looking for in terms of looks and are perfectly capable of being gaming rigs.  Take a look at the [Silverstone][1] cases as an example, and this one in particular for a fit in a living room:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lascala 16][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might think that one is too big, after all it fits a standard ATX case, in which case you can check out the slim models etc.  However, more space makes it easier to cool quietly and it looks just like an amp you might see as part of a normal home theater set up.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone are not the only game in town either, [Streacom][3], [Origen AE][4], [Lian Li][5] have some amazing looking cases and more mainstream players like Corsair ([the Bulldog][6] is coming soon as of writing this) have options on the way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of pre-built systems places like [QuietPC][7] have been offering excellent (and quiet, of course) [options][8] that would certainly fit in your living room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to whether to stack your components, I would always recommend an air gap and no direct contact - even though the heat will generally exhaust out the back a lot of the small form factor units are going to radiate heat from the case directly.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have cooked a wireless router while sitting on top of a PC and had overheating problems with an Apple TV for similar reasons.  If you must stack, then always try to have the hottest component at the top.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.silverstonetek.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f6LHw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.streacom.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.origenae.co.kr/en/index.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/htpc-chassis/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en/landing/bulldog&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.quietpc.com&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.quietpc.com/sys-lora" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="53" RevisionGUID="5cdd1a97-4e92-4cf8-9b8a-8af133f74805" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:08:42.193" UserId="60" Text="The [Moto E](http://www.motorola.com/us/smartphones/moto-e-2nd-gen/moto-e-2nd-gen.html) is a low end cell phone priced at ~$120 USD for the 3G model (off contract). It has 1GB RAM, 8GB internal storage, supports up to 32GB microSD, and Android 5.0. The display is 4.5&quot; qHD 540x960 245 ppi IPS. The 3G model has a 1.2GHz quad-core CPU (Snapdragon 200) and an Adreno 302 GPU (400 MHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you order it from Motorola directly, you get free shipping." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="54" RevisionGUID="59b3b266-85b8-419f-91a7-6fa97754e802" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:13:11.093" UserId="40" Text="[What is hyper-threading and how does it work?](http://superuser.com/q/122536/116475) does a good job at explaining what hyper-threading is. It is useful if you plan to have more threads running than the number of physical cores, which is likely to be the case, but the performance gains won't be miraculous though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="8df7742f-b2ab-4fe6-bfc8-883b994e76be" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:18:57.353" UserId="135" Text="I got a message up when I wrote the title that http://i.imgur.com/PZV6NRZ.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyhow, i'll ask anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I suppose a recommendation would only be a duplicate within a particular month or few months.. though I didn't add Sept 2015 to the title.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are always certain chipsets that are out there...one that are reasonably up to date.. though it can be difficult to keep up. No doubt many here do. I'm asking about that and RAM and just also generally what computer. What spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for Budget.. Well, if you can answer for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As cheap a computer can be, but be able to handle it comfortably&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;And if that's not what you yourself would get for that goal..e.g. if you wouldn't go cheap, Then, What you yourself would get (not if money was no object), but the kind of thing you'd get and recommend people getting.. given that goal. Say, somebody of average income but enthusiastic.  If that's not descriptive enough..  Let's say for budget of $700 and $1300 (both excluding screen/printer/scanner, and perhaps if necessary, excluding RAM from the price too Too, if need be,  'cos I know RAM could be hugely expensive.  I'd want the capacity for at least 32GB RAM 'cos my current laptop is 16GB and I use most of 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use visual studio too. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="188" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="8df7742f-b2ab-4fe6-bfc8-883b994e76be" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:18:57.353" UserId="135" Text="What do you suggest for a comp with 80 chrome tabs, 20 virtual machines?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="189" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="8df7742f-b2ab-4fe6-bfc8-883b994e76be" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:18:57.353" UserId="135" Text="&lt;web-browsing&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="54" RevisionGUID="bcdf0e39-0ccf-42b2-9d87-87f96ef199f1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:19:52.590" UserId="40" Comment="added 607 characters in body" Text="[What is hyper-threading and how does it work?](http://superuser.com/q/122536/116475) does a good job at explaining what hyper-threading is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hyper-threading is where your processor pretends to have 2 physical&#xD;&#xA;&gt; processor cores, yet only has 1 and some extra junk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The point of hyperthreading is that many times when you are executing&#xD;&#xA;&gt; code in the processor, there are parts of the processor that is idle.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; By including an extra set of CPU registers, the processor can act like&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it has two cores and thus use all parts of the processor in parallel.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the 2 cores both need to use one component of the processor, then&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one core ends up waiting of course. This is why it can not replace&#xD;&#xA;&gt; dual-core and such processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is useful if you plan to have more threads running than the number of physical cores, which is likely to be the case, but the performance gains won't be miraculous though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="57" RevisionGUID="a01923d8-2133-479a-b22c-e768e4166213" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:21:32.860" UserId="6" Text="&gt;What exactly is hyper-threading? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a process where your processor simulates another processor core, allowing better multithreading/etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, a dual core machine with hyperthreading will have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 physical cores&#xD;&#xA; - 4 virtual cores&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some sense, this allows the processor to &quot;pretend&quot; to have more cores.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;When should I buy a processor that utilizes this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This can be useful if you are doing applications that are heavily multi-threaded. Virtual machines, image/video processing, compiling code, etc. Basically if your computer use is going to be heavily CPU dependent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For most users hyperthreading will have minimal effect. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="58" RevisionGUID="e0b8e977-3235-44d3-bfe0-9d68bf91d577" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:25:42.467" UserId="58" Text="There are some more options (added to JonasCZ's answer):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [KVM][1] - generally a good option to control servers remotely. &#xD;&#xA; - Raspberry Pi or Arduino (etc) - easy and cheap. In case of Raspberry Pi you can connect it to the necessary ports, connect to the net and that's it. They also have pins which are easily programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="59" RevisionGUID="059334c4-9f96-4b53-83ee-16f5ae2796ca" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:53.070" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="I'm looking for a weatherproof (or waterproof only) IP Camera capable of covering long distances like 500 meters or more for 24/7 surveillance in industrial areas. I've searched among popular brands but none of them had this specification. most camera lens sized I found are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.6mm →15 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 6mm →20 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 8mm →26 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 12mm →40 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 16mm →60 meters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only Important specifications for the IP camera is having a good video quality and at least 500 meters of straight coverage, so it doesn't matter whether it uses mechanical zoom or digital but it definitely must be a PTZ (Pan, Tilt, Zoom) camera. Thanks! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="59" RevisionGUID="059334c4-9f96-4b53-83ee-16f5ae2796ca" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:53.070" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="Weatherproof IP camera for long distances" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="59" RevisionGUID="059334c4-9f96-4b53-83ee-16f5ae2796ca" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:53.070" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;waterproof&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="60" RevisionGUID="48f792a3-4f8b-414b-948c-bfe5edf5c553" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:57.330" UserId="100" Text="Buying a full server is both expensive to buy and to maintain. As NAS devices became popular they give us the chance to have servers that are easy to acquire and cheap to maintain especially when it comes to power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also an overkill to get a full server for a personal or low-traffic website so if someone would like to host their own sites but not in a professional level or without a hosting plan (LAN only usage or home automation) then a NAS could be a good solution between a server rack in the closet and a service given by a hosting company, especially that a NAS is designed to be power efficient, easy to maintain, silent, to be run 24/7, not to mention the support for RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some cheap NAS devices that would make a good webserver that can serve a maximum of a few hundred visitors a day and provide the freedom of a regular server but in a smaller scale. Something that let you install different technologies used in web developement (not just PHP and MySQL). Possibly give SSH access and has an operating system that is (in term of possibilities) the closest to a &quot;normal&quot; server OS like Debian or CentOS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="201" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="60" RevisionGUID="48f792a3-4f8b-414b-948c-bfe5edf5c553" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:57.330" UserId="100" Text="Are there some low cost NAS devices that can operate well as a webserver?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="202" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="60" RevisionGUID="48f792a3-4f8b-414b-948c-bfe5edf5c553" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:57.330" UserId="100" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="61" RevisionGUID="477de5ef-ca30-49b6-9a4a-18055d2da774" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:34:34.343" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="4439b702-1b99-4b6a-b5ae-1f2190c63bdb" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:34:34.343" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="205" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="60" RevisionGUID="31ff6b0d-9e1d-47d9-aa88-d9ef19213a2b" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:40:43.770" UserId="100" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="Buying a full server is both expensive to buy and to maintain. As NAS devices became popular they give us the chance to have servers that are easy to acquire and cheap to maintain especially when it comes to power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also an overkill to get a full server for a personal or low-traffic website so if someone would like to host their own sites but not in a professional level or without a hosting plan (LAN only usage or home automation) then a NAS could be a good solution between a server rack in the closet and a service given by a hosting company, especially that a NAS is designed to be power efficient, easy to maintain, silent, to be run 24/7, not to mention the support for RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some cheap NAS devices that would make a good webserver that can serve a maximum of a few hundred visitors a day and provide the freedom of a regular server but in a smaller scale. Something that let you install different technologies used in web developement (not just PHP and MySQL). Possibly give SSH access and has an operating system that is (in term of possibilities) the closest to a &quot;normal&quot; server OS like Debian or CentOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Low cost means it is cheaper than a desktop PC used by the average, everyday user in First World countries." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="14702f13-3301-4f3e-bf90-c6d342cfd454" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:57:18.663" UserId="103" Text="I am looking for a new Android ebook reader. The primary requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. OS: Officially supports Android version 6.&#xD;&#xA;2. Weight: &lt; 300gr, preferably &lt; 250gr.&#xD;&#xA;3. Price: &lt; $250.&#xD;&#xA;4. Dimensions: not large &#xD;&#xA;(roughly the size of [Nexus 7][1]: &#xD;&#xA;200 mm × 114 mm × 8.65 mm)&#xD;&#xA;5. Mem: &gt; 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondary requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Pure or close to Pure Android (i.e. no bloatware).&#xD;&#xA;2. Water-resistant.&#xD;&#xA;3. Comfortable to hold and read in one hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nexus_7_(2013)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="207" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="14702f13-3301-4f3e-bf90-c6d342cfd454" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:57:18.663" UserId="103" Text="Android ebook reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="208" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="14702f13-3301-4f3e-bf90-c6d342cfd454" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:57:18.663" UserId="103" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;ebook&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="429d86af-f58b-416c-8ad5-463789ccfe88" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:14:54.900" UserId="147" Text="I have an old Logitech M505 mouse and I really like both the ergonomic form factor and the fact that it's from Logitech (the Unifying Receiver is handy). I looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Logitech M505](http://i.stack.imgur.com/Drgxx.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But this is discontinued and it has a few problems of its own, so I'd like to find a new similar mouse from Logitech.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it must have a **clicking scroll wheel** (so rotating the scroll wheel clicks into set steps instead of smoothly scrolling). Also the **scroll wheel needs to be the middle mouse button** (as opposed to having a separate button below that acts as the middle mouse button). It should also have a **similar form factor** (meaning no weird gaming mice that look like they're an Autobot or Decepticon). Other features (like additional buttons) are okay but not required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="210" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="429d86af-f58b-416c-8ad5-463789ccfe88" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:14:54.900" UserId="147" Text="Logitech non-gaming mouse with a clicking scroll wheel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="211" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="429d86af-f58b-416c-8ad5-463789ccfe88" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:14:54.900" UserId="147" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="65" RevisionGUID="75320cea-afd6-4c64-a3dc-d145cb30d2d9" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:15:48.473" UserId="146" Text="I am using a [RaspberryPi][1] for this purposes (not really web hosting, but I used it just for testing, and it works fine). It's a pretty good solution, because you can make more out of it, as just a NAS with web server if you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your purpose I would recommend the RaspberryPi 2 since it has better performance and probably should handle your amount of users easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also keep in Mind, that your website's performance is affected by your connection speed (up and download). And you need some basic Linux skills for setting it up&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also other Barebones, that could be good, but I don't have experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="66" RevisionGUID="a8fe6ea0-db53-4c71-b989-d05bc713f8f5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:16:17.383" UserId="74" Text="I already offered a NAS recommendation as a [response to this question][1], and I'd maintain the same recommendation for your situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QNAP and other commercial NAS devices are just small Linux machines with custom operating systems to make configuration and management consumer friendly. By default, QNAP devices are set up as web servers. The administration and configuration can all be handled through the device's web UI. The low cost models (such as the TS-231) would be quickly be bogged down by a high traffic dynamically served website, but for something simple the performance should be suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The stipulation is that you may not get the latest and greatest server software available as an easy to install package. For example, here's what &quot;apps&quot; I can currently install listed under &quot;Developer Tools&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QNAP App Center][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note the versions for these services are behind the current stable branch. If you absolutely need the latest, you might have success installing it manually via SSH. If you desire something a little less DIY, there are also easy installation options provided for many popular CMSs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QNAP App Center][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/26/74 &quot;What options are available for cheap NAS devices that allows to put two hard drives in RAID 1?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fnTmQ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wjJol.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="54" RevisionGUID="1878a22c-a7de-476a-9268-1f1ef6301726" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:26:19.793" UserId="40" Comment="added 394 characters in body" Text="[What is hyper-threading and how does it work?](http://superuser.com/q/122536/116475) does a good job at explaining what hyper-threading is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hyper-threading is where your processor pretends to have 2 physical&#xD;&#xA;&gt; processor cores, yet only has 1 and some extra junk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The point of hyperthreading is that many times when you are executing&#xD;&#xA;&gt; code in the processor, there are parts of the processor that is idle.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; By including an extra set of CPU registers, the processor can act like&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it has two cores and thus use all parts of the processor in parallel.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the 2 cores both need to use one component of the processor, then&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one core ends up waiting of course. This is why it can not replace&#xD;&#xA;&gt; dual-core and such processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [article](http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/hyperthreading-technology-explained/) presents a benchmark on the benefits of hyper-threading:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As the performance boost figure of only up to 30% indicates, Hyper-Threading is not the same as doubling the number of cores on a processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wikipedia has a section on [hyper-threading's performance](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyper-threading#Performance_claims). Basically the results aren't clear-cut.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all, it is probably useful if you plan to have more threads running than the number of physical cores, which is likely to be the case, but the performance gains won't be miraculous though and in some cases null.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/i9bOr.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="67" RevisionGUID="a08b97ea-f9da-4789-9ee3-49826de148cf" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:27:41.987" UserId="107" Text="Just pick up a cheap prepaid/no-contract Android phone like the LG Optimus Exceed 2 or Moto E.  The Exceed 2 frequently goes on sale for as little as $15-$20, and the Moto E often goes on sale for $40." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="54" RevisionGUID="6e5f65cc-71d0-4085-a47f-8ee767f1a7a0" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:33:52.733" UserId="40" Comment="added 532 characters in body" Text="[What is hyper-threading and how does it work?](http://superuser.com/q/122536/116475) does a good job at explaining what hyper-threading is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hyper-threading is where your processor pretends to have 2 physical&#xD;&#xA;&gt; processor cores, yet only has 1 and some extra junk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The point of hyperthreading is that many times when you are executing&#xD;&#xA;&gt; code in the processor, there are parts of the processor that is idle.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; By including an extra set of CPU registers, the processor can act like&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it has two cores and thus use all parts of the processor in parallel.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the 2 cores both need to use one component of the processor, then&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one core ends up waiting of course. This is why it can not replace&#xD;&#xA;&gt; dual-core and such processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [article](http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/hyperthreading-technology-explained/) presents a benchmark on the benefits of hyper-threading:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As the performance boost figure of only up to 30% indicates, Hyper-Threading is not the same as doubling the number of cores on a processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another benchmark can be found [here](http://ixbtlabs.com/articles3/cpu/archspeed-2009-4-p1.html):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wikipedia has a section on [hyper-threading's performance](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyper-threading#Performance_claims). Basically the results aren't clear-cut.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all, it is probably useful if you plan to have more threads running than the number of physical cores, which is likely to be the case, but the performance gains won't be miraculous though and in some cases null.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/i9bOr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LfrcB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zNwyo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/egyed.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CgaNv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zlGdL.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="217" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="67" RevisionGUID="0a40131d-363a-42f1-b4cf-4e9ae5776865" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:36:14.463" UserId="107" Comment="added 411 characters in body" Text="Just pick up a cheap prepaid/no-contract Android phone like the LG Optimus Exceed 2 or Moto E.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Exceed 2 frequently goes on sale for as little as $15-$20 and has a dual-core CPU and 4 GB flash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Moto E often goes on sale for $40 and has a quad-core CPU and 8 GB flash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also other prepaid phones that run older versions of Android, as well as older unlocked models available on the secondhand market (e.g., eBay) for well under $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that, while many people do have high-end phones, many others have lower-end phones, and it's useful to test an app on a range of hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="f94e03d4-9876-43df-af7a-61e20243876c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:50:25.490" UserId="70" Text="These four are the main I/O that you see.  What are the pros/cons for each?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know HDMI 2.0 supports higher fps than earlier HDMI as well as that Display Port supports high fps.  Besides that I'm not positive on why I would connect my monitor with a certain cable.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="219" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="f94e03d4-9876-43df-af7a-61e20243876c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:50:25.490" UserId="70" Text="What are the differences between monitors inputs (HDMI, Display Port, DVI-D, DVI-I)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="220" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="f94e03d4-9876-43df-af7a-61e20243876c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:50:25.490" UserId="70" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="a014158e-384a-4323-81ec-1f813f801a2a" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:03:03.447" UserId="58" Text="There are more parameters when comparing and choosing CPUs.  &#xD;&#xA;Also lets not forget that performance depends on what we do.  &#xD;&#xA;Lets bring list of parameters which can affect performance (sorted by importance, descending).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Performance:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU frequency - how many GHz. The most important parameter. The more, the better.&#xD;&#xA; - Core/Thread count - (another very important parameter) how many actual cores you have, and how many threads the cores have. For example,  i7 may have 4 cores and 8 threads, whereas Core 2 Duo has only 2 cores and 2 threads. That means you can run 8 (better 4) concurrent program threads on i7, compared to 2 on Core 2 Duo, which results in better  multitasking/multithreading. &#xD;&#xA; This is the main reason why i7 2.4GHz is more powerful than a 2.5/3GHz Core 2 Duo.&#xD;&#xA; - Bits - 32-bit, 64-bit. A high-performance application created for 64-bit  CPU may have better performance than 32-bit performance. Also it can limit maximal amount of RAM (depends on OS). For example, old Windows XP could see 4GB RAM when CPU was 32-bit. Today most CPUs are 64-bit and usually you will not feel RAM limit (unless you are running a powerful server).&#xD;&#xA; - Cache - a very fast but little memory placed near to CPU. Usually improves performance (if we omit cache-miss, but that's another theme)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other options to compare:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support of hardware - RAM type/size/frequency, for example, DDR4 2133MHz, 64GB.  &#xD;&#xA;Another important parameter can be PCI (Express) version and number of lanes (e.g. for connecting SSDs). The higher, the better. &#xD;&#xA; - Power consumption, [TDP][1] - watts consumed by CPU and produced heat. This is important especially for mobile devices, tablets and notebooks which have battery and don't have good cooling systems. Does not affect performance.&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in graphics - newer CPUs usually have better graphics than old ones and support more monitors. Of course that's not enough to run new high-performance games but is good for home/office usage and low-end gaming. But built-in graphics is not so important when you already have graphics card.&#xD;&#xA; - Other features - features like HyperThreading, Turbo Boost, VTx. Some of them may have good impact on performance, others may be useful for specific cases. Most of them don't increase performance on daily usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, you can use benchmarks to test CPUs, or see benchmark results in sites like [FutureMark][2], [PassMark CPU Benchmark][3], or use benchmarks such as [Cadalyst][4] for AutoCAD to determine performance of one software.&#xD;&#xA;(This is a better way if you don't know much about hardware.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cadalyst.com/benchmark-test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="223" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="47" RevisionGUID="bf03df45-c010-4a38-a10e-82e3590d6138" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:08:43.097" UserId="58" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="Water-cooling is better than traditional fan-cooling.&#xD;&#xA;Using it is reasonable if you have hardware that gets hot very often and reaches its temperature limits; and you can't cool it down in traditional ways. Another (bad) reason is something like &quot;hey people look, I have watercooling because its cool&quot;. And the last reason is - it's not noisy and dusty. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And what about performance?  &#xD;&#xA;Hardware may slow down on high temperatures. That includes CPU, GPU.  &#xD;&#xA;Hardware can get damaged on high temperatures. For example, HDD (yes, it's max temperatures are usually about 55-60C, whereas CPU can be 70-100C), especially HDD on notebooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no performance gain when using watercooling. But there can be performance loss or damage if such temperature-sensitive devices don't get enough cooling. And then watercooling is a good option to re-gain the lost performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="224" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="0ff1f4f9-a65c-4ddb-b2f3-1f457030b03c" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:21:15.310" UserId="70" Comment="added 'VGA'" Text="What are the differences between monitors inputs (HDMI, Display Port, DVI-D, DVI-I, VGA)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="226" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2" RevisionGUID="efdb9fcb-e211-4ac7-9930-251f9acb8952" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:33:45.110" UserId="8" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="The most obvious way is just to simply benchmark the two against each other. If you have a machine with each processor installed, or one machine with the ability to change the processor, then you can run tests. One machine would be better, to preserve all the other contributing aspects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perform some common tasks with each processor installed. These should be tasks that primarily use the CPU, rather than any other component: browsing the web wouldn't be as good, because it primarily uses the network card (yes, it *does* use CPU, but I don't see that as its *primary* resource). Tasks such as these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Rendering, such as image editors, or in games;&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy calculations. If you can program, make yourself a loop with some heavy work in there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to do as much work, you can look up processor stats. A quick Google search revealed [this website][1], among others, to me, which seems to me to hold lists of processors that someone else has benchmarked for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="71" RevisionGUID="e6560a93-8523-458b-b40b-b515e0bd4733" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:39:07.770" UserId="153" Text="There several differences between each cable. Display port supports 4k at high fps. HDMI can do 4k but only at 30 fps. The one benefit of using HDMI is that it can carry audio when VGA and DVI do not. DVI in single link can only do 1080p when in dual link can carry a higher resolution. There are several other differences also which you can read about [here][1].If you are looking for a format for connecting your monitor go with DVI if working with 1080p but if you are using 4k you will want to use display port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-displayport-vs-dvi-vs-vga-which-connection-to-choose/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="bd47d553-8f56-4c75-9e7c-3206124be58f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:39:49.037" UserId="6" Text="I have been wanting a better desk for many months. Pretty much my only requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Desk must move up/down&#xD;&#xA;  - Must have some sort of continuous mechanism for this (ie not just every 2 inches, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available online&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a flat surface that is reasonably rectangular&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is meaningful, and I'd like to say less than $500, but this is not the most important thing. An ideal answer would include a few options with varying price ranges." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="229" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="bd47d553-8f56-4c75-9e7c-3206124be58f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:39:49.037" UserId="6" Text="Standing desk with motor to raise/lower?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="bd47d553-8f56-4c75-9e7c-3206124be58f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:39:49.037" UserId="6" Text="&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="231" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="73" RevisionGUID="8ed7ad96-a0e7-461e-a2ba-48f4e3484700" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:45:26.470" UserId="153" Text="Your best option would be to use the upliftdesk which is available online and has a motor to make it go up and down is made with quality materials has wire managment and it has a keyboard tray. It is $630 though. upliftdesk also has a frame only desk that is just a frame and has a motor already on it for $460 but it does not have a top so you would have to get one yourself." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="a1a032be-3a93-4195-b210-64298ba00044" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:51:20.243" UserId="153" Text="I am looking for a camera that can scan 3d objects for use in 3d modelling programs such as blender. Requirments&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - sdk&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - quality 3d scans&#xD;&#xA; - movable preferably wireless&#xD;&#xA; - less than $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="233" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="a1a032be-3a93-4195-b210-64298ba00044" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:51:20.243" UserId="153" Text="camera with depth sensing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="234" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="a1a032be-3a93-4195-b210-64298ba00044" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:51:20.243" UserId="153" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="4f407bb8-fa6b-454b-9d72-c4ee896b6e1f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:55:56.897" UserId="6" Comment="added 46 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have been wanting a better desk for many months. Pretty much my only requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Desk must move up/down&#xD;&#xA;  - Must have some sort of continuous mechanism for this (ie not just every 2 inches, etc)&#xD;&#xA;  - Can be either motorized or non-motorized&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available online&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a flat surface that is reasonably rectangular&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is meaningful, and I'd like to say less than $500, but this is not the most important thing. An ideal answer would include a few options with varying price ranges." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="237" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="4f407bb8-fa6b-454b-9d72-c4ee896b6e1f" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:55:56.897" UserId="6" Comment="added 46 characters in body; edited title" Text="Standing desk with ability to raise/lower?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="76" RevisionGUID="8ce76618-6d42-491d-912f-fafe454cbbbc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:00:57.363" UserId="150" Text="My laptop runs AutoCAD and various Autodesk drafting/modeling programs. I'd like to buy a second monitor to help me work with multiple files/drawings at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What second monitor can I buy that . . .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - is designed specifically as a second monitor,&#xD;&#xA; - has a diagonal of about 16&quot; (maximum 0f 20&quot;!),&#xD;&#xA; - is relatively portable (this will likely be used with a laptop), and&#xD;&#xA; - is under $150?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="239" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="76" RevisionGUID="8ce76618-6d42-491d-912f-fafe454cbbbc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:00:57.363" UserId="150" Text="Specialized dual monitor to use with AutoCAD and a laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="240" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="76" RevisionGUID="8ce76618-6d42-491d-912f-fafe454cbbbc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:00:57.363" UserId="150" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="77" RevisionGUID="16128cea-a311-4d57-bdf0-a993595dff4a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:07:37.323" UserId="155" Text="Logitech's wireless mice with Unifying Receivers all have smooth-scrolling middle mouse buttons as far as I know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This listing](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/mice-pointers/mice) of all Unifying devices out right now has some good alternatives for you. The [M510](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-mouse-m510) is one of the more robust, larger mice they make. Possibly the closest you'll get to the late M505 (RIP) is the [M325](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-mouse-m325) which is almost the same size and has the same features aside from being newer. Based on what you described, I think these would be your best bets." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="ed398668-52d7-4e17-a152-69c072b31df1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:15:15.277" UserId="128" Comment="We don't need any administrative chatter :)" Text="There are always certain chipsets that are out there...one that are reasonably up to date.. though it can be difficult to keep up. No doubt many here do. I'm asking about that and RAM and just also generally what computer. What spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for Budget.. Well, if you can answer for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As cheap a computer can be, but be able to handle it comfortably&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;And if that's not what you yourself would get for that goal..e.g. if you wouldn't go cheap, Then, What you yourself would get (not if money was no object), but the kind of thing you'd get and recommend people getting.. given that goal. Say, somebody of average income but enthusiastic.  If that's not descriptive enough..  Let's say for budget of $700 and $1300 (both excluding screen/printer/scanner, and perhaps if necessary, excluding RAM from the price too Too, if need be,  'cos I know RAM could be hugely expensive.  I'd want the capacity for at least 32GB RAM 'cos my current laptop is 16GB and I use most of 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use visual studio too. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="243" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="ed398668-52d7-4e17-a152-69c072b31df1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:15:15.277" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 135 edit id of 17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="78" RevisionGUID="71aaacd2-12fc-45dd-af3d-16ef15f727cc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:21:44.520" UserId="152" Text="I'll start with VGA, which is, in my opinion, its a &quot;standard&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VGA** is an analog signal. This basically means that the quality will not be as great as cables that make use of digital signals, especially at high resolutions. The problem with analog is that noise often distorts the signal and the quality ends up not being as good. So in terms of quality, rather go for the other three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Digital signals do not have this problem because they are noise tolerant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI** is a digital signal that has a few different connecter types and two link modes:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-A has an analog signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D has only a digital signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-I has both, making it especially useful as it can be used with VGA-DVI adaptors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most adaptors are single link and support a resolution up to 1920x1200 whereas dual link supports up to 2560x1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDMI** is the standard for HDTVs it is also a digital signal and is therefore fully compatible with DVI-D and DVI-I. The benifit of HDMI over DVI is that is has the ability to carry audio as well as the video signal although it does require that your monitor has built in speakers. Recently HDMI 2.0 was released and gives HDMI the ability to better deal with 4K (Ultra HD) displays at a higher frequency and FPS. If your display or TV has HDMI 1.4, you’ll be limited to 3,820×2160, 4K, at 30 Hz. However if you’ve got a video card and 4K display with HDMI 2.0, you’ll be able to get 4K at 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much difference between between HDMI 1.4 and DVI besides the audio in the HDMI which can be a real benefit depending on your setup and that colour ranges for HDMI go beyond the RGB spectrum which DVI is limited to. The only benefit of the DVI is the physical screws that support the DVI cable and help prevent port damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DisplayPort** is the newest of the lot and is aimed towards higher end monitors - newer and high-end monitors tend to have DisplayPort. Its designed to deal with 4K at higher FPS and Hz. DisplayPort is capable of 3840×2160, 8K at 60Hz or 4k at 120Hz!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort looks like it's the way of the future, especially if you want 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally it depends on your setup (monitor and graphics card), what you can and can't use but for the future of gaming DisplayPort looks the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References and more info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/video-cables-explained-difference-vga-dvi-hdmi-ports/&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - http://superuser.com/questions/15884/hdmi-vs-component-vs-vga-vs-dvi-vs-displayport&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.avadirect.com/blog/displayport-vs-hdmi-vs-dvi-vs-vga/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="80" RevisionGUID="06674e07-b89d-46cb-9c9b-ff27289b5fe1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:32:08.580" UserId="155" Text="There are a few more factors than the ones you listed that will really play a part in how much you'll have to pay. One being the panel type and two being the input type(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Firstly, IPS panels (the screens that feel like glass) cost more but have a better viewing angle, more vivid colors, and they're usually a little more sturdy. TN panels (the screens that make weird colors if you press on them) cost less and are more common but are usually faster in terms of response time. Thus, I'm thinking you could use an IPS if there's a good price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondly, monitors aren't really ever made to specifically be a primary or secondary monitor &amp;mdash; they're all the same in that sense. So that's out of the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And thirdly, portability is very subjective. One person might think a monitor is portable while another might not. Personally, I judge portability by the box the monitor comes in. For example, my Asus VE358 comes in a box that can be used as a big briefcase. Other manufacturers might not do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, on to picking some monitors out. I have one that is on the high end of your budget and a few on the low end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Dell P2014H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260144) &amp;ndash; $150, 19.5&quot;, IPS panel, average resolution&#xD;&#xA;2. [Dell E1914H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260151) &amp;ndash; $100, 18.5&quot;, TN panel, small resolution&#xD;&#xA;3. [Dell E2014H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260143) &amp;ndash; $110, 20&quot;, TN panel, average resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of sturdiness, I lean towards Dell because they use a stronger plastic for most of their mid-tier monitors as opposed to something like Asus where the plastic is a little bendable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="81" RevisionGUID="309678de-8669-4f5b-a283-cb2981d678e8" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:36:24.407" UserId="2" Text="The [Asus MB168B+](https://www.asus.com/Monitors/MB168BPlus/) looks like it would fit your needs. It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is designed as a second monitor with a USB 3.0 cable to power it, and transfer video and data (also works on USB 2.0, but you may experience worse results video quality-wise)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- has a 15.6&quot; screen with 1920x1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is *very* portable, weighing less than 2 pounds, and being about as thin as a pencil (0.3 inches); it also comes with a case for protection and also to act as a stand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *can* cost under $150; prices range from about $140 to $225, depending on where you buy it (bargain stores are cheaper); if cost is your biggest issue, you may want to check out the [Asus MB168B](https://www.asus.com/Monitors/MB168B/) (no &quot;+&quot;), which is very similar except that it has lower resolution (1366x768) and overall lower quality display; it can typically be found under $150 at well known stores&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you prefer higher quality display over cost, the MB168B+ is the better fit, but if you *really* need it to be under $150, you'll probably want to go with the MB168B." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="248" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="78" RevisionGUID="845da525-9862-46ea-ab16-20efa2020240" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:40:08.567" UserId="150" Comment="Some minor grammar edits." Text="I'll start with VGA, which is, in my opinion, a &quot;standard&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VGA** is an analog signal. This basically means that the quality will not be as great as cables that make use of digital signals, especially at high resolutions. The problem with analog is that noise often distorts the signal and the quality ends up not being as good. So in terms of quality, go for the other three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Digital signals do not have this problem because they are noise tolerant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI** is a digital signal that has a few different connecter types and two link modes:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-A has an analog signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D has only a digital signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-I has both, making it especially useful as it can be used with VGA-DVI adaptors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most adapt0rs are single link and support a resolution up to 1920x1200 whereas dual link supports up to 2560x1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDMI** is the standard for HDTVs. It is also a digital signal and is therefore fully compatible with DVI-D and DVI-I. The benifit of HDMI over DVI is that is has the ability to carry audio as well as the video signal although it does require that your monitor has built in speakers. Recently, HDMI 2.0 was released and gives HDMI the ability to better deal with 4K (Ultra HD) displays at a higher frequency and FPS. If your display or TV has HDMI 1.4, you’ll be limited to 3,820×2160, 4K, at 30 Hz. However, if you’ve got a video card and 4K display with HDMI 2.0, you’ll be able to get 4K at 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much difference between between HDMI 1.4 and DVI besides the audio in the HDMI, which can be a real benefit depending on your setup and that colour ranges for HDMI go beyond the RGB spectrum which DVI is limited to. The only benefit of the DVI is the physical screws that support the DVI cable and help prevent port damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DisplayPort** is the newest of the lot and is aimed towards higher end monitors - newer and high-end monitors tend to have DisplayPort. Its designed to deal with 4K at higher FPS and Hz. DisplayPort is capable of 3840×2160, 8K at 60Hz or 4k at 120Hz!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort looks like it's the way of the future, especially if you want 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally it depends on your setup (monitor and graphics card), what you can and can't use but for the future of gaming DisplayPort looks the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References and more info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/video-cables-explained-difference-vga-dvi-hdmi-ports/&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - http://superuser.com/questions/15884/hdmi-vs-component-vs-vga-vs-dvi-vs-displayport  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.avadirect.com/blog/displayport-vs-hdmi-vs-dvi-vs-vga/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="249" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="78" RevisionGUID="845da525-9862-46ea-ab16-20efa2020240" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:40:08.567" Comment="Proposed by 150 approved by -1 edit id of 18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="78" RevisionGUID="4c45873c-7f3d-4be5-9941-7f41ff774bf7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:40:08.567" UserId="152" Comment="Some minor grammar edits." Text="I'll start with VGA, which is, in my opinion, a &quot;standard&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VGA** is an analog signal. This basically means that the quality will not be as great as cables that make use of digital signals, especially at high resolutions. The problem with analog is that noise often distorts the signal and the quality ends up not being as good. So in terms of quality, go for the other three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Digital signals do not have this problem because they are noise tolerant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI** is a digital signal that has a few different connecter types and two link modes:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-A has an analog signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D has only a digital signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-I has both, making it especially useful as it can be used with VGA-DVI adaptors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most adaptors are single link and support a resolution up to 1920x1200 whereas dual link supports up to 2560x1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDMI** is the standard for HDTVs. It is also a digital signal and is therefore fully compatible with DVI-D and DVI-I. The benifit of HDMI over DVI is that is has the ability to carry audio as well as the video signal although it does require that your monitor has built in speakers. Recently, HDMI 2.0 was released and gives HDMI the ability to better deal with 4K (Ultra HD) displays at a higher frequency and FPS. If your display or TV has HDMI 1.4, you’ll be limited to 3,820×2160, 4K, at 30 Hz. However, if you’ve got a video card and 4K display with HDMI 2.0, you’ll be able to get 4K at 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much difference between between HDMI 1.4 and DVI besides the audio in the HDMI, which can be a real benefit depending on your setup and that colour ranges for HDMI go beyond the RGB spectrum which DVI is limited to. The only benefit of the DVI is the physical screws that support the DVI cable and help prevent port damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DisplayPort** is the newest of the lot and is aimed towards higher end monitors - newer and high-end monitors tend to have DisplayPort. Its designed to deal with 4K at higher FPS and Hz. DisplayPort is capable of 3840×2160, 8K at 60Hz or 4k at 120Hz!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort looks like it's the way of the future, especially if you want 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally it depends on your setup (monitor and graphics card), what you can and can't use but for the future of gaming DisplayPort looks the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References and more info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/video-cables-explained-difference-vga-dvi-hdmi-ports/&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - http://superuser.com/questions/15884/hdmi-vs-component-vs-vga-vs-dvi-vs-displayport  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.avadirect.com/blog/displayport-vs-hdmi-vs-dvi-vs-vga/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="255" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="80" RevisionGUID="399336d3-6955-4b2c-a545-e9fe1e6719a4" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:41:35.493" UserId="155" Comment="added info" Text="There are a few more factors than the ones you listed that will really play a part in how much you'll have to pay. One being the panel type and two being the input type(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - IPS panels (the screens that feel like glass) cost more but have a better viewing angle, more vivid colors, and they're usually a little more sturdy. TN panels (the screens that make weird colors if you press on them) cost less and are more common but are usually faster in terms of response time. Thus, I'm thinking you could use an IPS if there's a good price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Monitors aren't really ever made to specifically be a primary or secondary monitor &amp;mdash; they're all the same in that sense. So that's out of the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portability is very subjective. One person might think a monitor is portable while another might not. Personally, I judge portability by the box the monitor comes in. For example, my Asus VE358 comes in a box that can be used as a big briefcase. Other manufacturers might not do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As for input types, you just need to know what inputs your laptop has. DisplayPort and HDMI will cost more than VGA because they carry audio as well as video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, on to picking some monitors out. I have one that is on the high end of your budget and a few on the low end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Dell P2014H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260144) &amp;ndash; $150, 19.5&quot;, IPS panel, average resolution&#xD;&#xA;2. [Dell E1914H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260151) &amp;ndash; $100, 18.5&quot;, TN panel, small resolution&#xD;&#xA;3. [Dell E2014H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260143) &amp;ndash; $110, 20&quot;, TN panel, average resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of sturdiness, I lean towards Dell because they use a stronger plastic for most of their mid-tier monitors as opposed to something like Asus where the plastic is a little bendable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="263" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="a682a58c-5665-4f38-83d8-97bd8259f735" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:11:27.627" UserId="147" Comment="Mentioned that I want it to be wireless" Text="Logitech non-gaming wireless mouse with a clicking scroll wheel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="b471858e-9511-4800-976b-9194a4b29c38" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:15:01.923" UserId="157" Text="I'm considering buying new UPS for my PC. I'm hoping the new UPS can still hold power for around 15-30 minutes to do properly shutdown and come with surge protection. My PC come with [Corsair 600W PSU](http://www.corsair.com/en/cx-series-cx600m-modular-atx-power-supply-600-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu) and using [24&quot; BENQ monitor](http://gaming.benq.com/gaming-monitor/rl2455hm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this [ICA UPS CE600](http://www.icaups.co.id/dproduct.php?id=1501) meet that criteria ? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="b471858e-9511-4800-976b-9194a4b29c38" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:15:01.923" UserId="157" Text="Personal computer UPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="266" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="b471858e-9511-4800-976b-9194a4b29c38" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:15:01.923" UserId="157" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="fdf59d12-726c-42b6-80d7-73846fee4f6f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:22:55.393" UserId="157" Text="In my country, power chord come with 220V by default. My original 3DS charger only accept 110V power input. I'm taking my 3DS everywhere so i can't bring big power converter i have already at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any small converter for converting 220V to 110V ? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="268" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="fdf59d12-726c-42b6-80d7-73846fee4f6f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:22:55.393" UserId="157" Text="Is there any small power converter from 220V to 110V?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="269" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="fdf59d12-726c-42b6-80d7-73846fee4f6f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:22:55.393" UserId="157" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="87" RevisionGUID="3e0bf12e-f941-4155-9463-131f866cbeba" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:37:09.880" UserId="164" Text="As long as you aren't trying to run a hair dryer off of it, [this][1] adapter should do the trick. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Blackberry/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441848825&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=220%20to%20110v" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="91" RevisionGUID="32ac25ed-01f3-4695-9ec8-18da985cd994" CreationDate="2015-09-10T01:51:21.497" UserId="74" Text="## [Ergotron Workfit-D][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Ergotron Workfit-D][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image source: ergotron.com&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not (yet) own this desk, but I've put lots of research into this in hopes of soon owning a sit-stand desk. After evaluating quite a few desks, I've all but settled on the Workfit-D. It is non-motorized; the raising and lowering is enabled by Ergotron's &quot;Patented Constant Force™ technology&quot;. That's a fancy term for &quot;[spring powered][3]&quot;. The height adjustment is done by squeezing the handbrake on the front right corner of the desk then lifting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Relevant Specifications ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Capacity** — 65 lbs (29.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - **Surface area** — Rectangular, 47.6&quot; x 23.5&quot; (121 cm x 60 cm)&#xD;&#xA;   - If you'd like custom dimensions, Ergotron sells [just the base][4]. Note the difference in capacity; presumably the surface shipped with the Workfit-D is 23 lbs. The maximum recommended dimensions are available on that product page.&#xD;&#xA; - **Vertical lift** — 20&quot; (51 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Minimum height** — 30.6&quot; (78 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum height** — 50.6&quot; (129 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Price** — Currently [$689.00 with free shipping on Amazon][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Advantages ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I initially was drawn to IKEA's [Bekant motorized sit/stand desk][6] due to the lower price, but two things dissuaded me: speed and stability. I've seen multiple reviewers report that at higher heights the Bekant is [not quite as stable as you might expect][7]. The Bekant also has a very slow height adjustment. Ergotron produced [this video][8] comparing their desk's rate of adjustment with one that is motorized. The video is a little silly but does a good job making a point. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Disadvantages ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Workfit-D does not have infinite height points. It uses locking pins to secure the desk at the height you select. I don't have information on the spacing between the pin holes but personally I would be happy with what's available based on the video reviews I've watched.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum desk height is also a little high. My current static height sitting desk is roughly 28&quot;. I think I'd be comfortable with the 30.6&quot; height, but it's a surprisingly high base for desk that has an adjustable height.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Helpful reviews ###&#xD;&#xA; - [ENGLISH: ERGOTRON WORKFIT-D DESK 【HD】][11]by Tecnologia Brasil&#xD;&#xA; - [The Best Gaming Desk - Workfit-D Sit-Stand Desk Unboxing + Review][9] by LevelCapGaming &#xD;&#xA; - [Awesome Sit-Stand Desk by Ergotron][10] by Chris Davis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/631/language/en-US/Default.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/R9QaU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9044_iJ4S8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/757/language/en-US/Default.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Ergotron-WorkFit-D-Sit-Stand-Desk-walnut/dp/B009MQTMF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441846977&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=workfit-d&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S49022524/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://youtu.be/xSsKpWAIJGQ?t=277&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnfSeoJcXvw&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h--HqeRRckA&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqueNvnhSwI&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7MDy2nzaq0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="282" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="4dfdd1a6-2413-401d-9a4c-221a990a538f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:01:57.777" UserId="157" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="In my country, power chord come with 220V by default. My original 3DS charger only accept 110V power input. I'm taking my 3DS everywhere so i can't bring big power converter i have already at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any recommended small converter for converting 220V to 110V ? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="283" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="d6474cfd-b0e2-430b-8c0c-a8f6125c6957" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:12:55.863" UserId="74" Comment="edited title to closer reflect the requirements of the question" Text="Inexpensive entry-level digitizer (a.k.a. graphics tablet) for Photoshop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="d6474cfd-b0e2-430b-8c0c-a8f6125c6957" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:12:55.863" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 84 edit id of 22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="6471cc22-614e-4574-bb4c-4882f371765b" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:13:31.360" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:140,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Pacerier&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:58,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jet&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:68,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;psubsee2003&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:84,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;feetwet&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="286" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="9c5d0d47-c42a-45fd-874d-214984362f47" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:29:30.563" UserId="58" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="287" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="9c5d0d47-c42a-45fd-874d-214984362f47" CreationDate="2015-09-10T02:29:30.563" Comment="Proposed by 58 approved by 70 edit id of 14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="5fd8a009-e4a0-4cfa-82cf-f7d76f4230f9" CreationDate="2015-09-10T03:02:10.950" UserId="155" Comment="Massively corrected grammar, removed a part that was impossible to understand" Text="There are always certain chipsets out there &amp;mdash; ones that are reasonably up to date &amp;mdash; though they can be difficult to keep up with. No doubt many here do. I'm asking about chipsets, RAM, and also generally what computer is good. What specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget, a cheaper computer that can still handle the workload would be better.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;And if that's not what you yourself would get for that goal (e.g. if you wouldn't go cheap), then what _would_ you get or recommend to others? For example, if somebody of average income is an enthusiast. I'd want the capacity for at least 32GB RAM because my current laptop is 16GB and I use 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Visual Studio too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="289" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="5fd8a009-e4a0-4cfa-82cf-f7d76f4230f9" CreationDate="2015-09-10T03:02:10.950" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 135 edit id of 21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="92" RevisionGUID="406a10a0-6a84-4b6c-9c46-8056252ecff9" CreationDate="2015-09-10T03:03:24.467" UserId="40" Text="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_cooling#Advantages :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  The advantages of using water cooling over air cooling include water's higher specific heat capacity, density, and thermal conductivity. This allows water to transmit heat over greater distances with much less volumetric flow and reduced temperature difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For cooling CPU cores in computing equipment, the primary advantage of water cooling is that its tremendously increased ability to transport heat away from source to a secondary cooling surface allows for large, more optimally designed radiators rather than small, inefficient fins mounted directly on the heat source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically it can be beneficial when some of computer components get too hot (overclocking, warm room, etc.), as it is more efficient than  air coolers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for noise, see this nice [benchmark](http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4363/17/20-liquid-cooling-sets-group-test-better-than-air-test-results-noise-levels):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; With fans on low speed, liquid coolers are not able to stay as silent as the quietest state-of-the-art air coolers. Some air coolers can maintain 25 dB(A) or less at a 10 centimeter distance, while the most silent water cooler (Corsair H55) creates 31 dB of noise. Only three liquid coolers stay below 35 dB(A) which is virtually inaudible: the H55, the Antec H20 920 (the original version!) and the Corsair H60. The Corsair H100i and H80i don't go below 40 dB(A), which isn't that loud but also not very quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ecS8f.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWhTP.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="94" RevisionGUID="c5c07b27-5602-48f3-9c3c-0c0966d9e6cc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:04:33.117" UserId="65" Text="My wife insists on having a landline.  I know there are some VOIP providers that have apps that let you answer calls on your smartphone, but is there a generic device that will let you answer landline calls on your cellphone (as if it were a POTS phone extension)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I assume it would require a companion app." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="94" RevisionGUID="c5c07b27-5602-48f3-9c3c-0c0966d9e6cc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:04:33.117" UserId="65" Text="Answering landline (or VOIP) calls on smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="94" RevisionGUID="c5c07b27-5602-48f3-9c3c-0c0966d9e6cc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:04:33.117" UserId="65" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;pots&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="300" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="736a6eb3-72c8-47d2-801c-9b48ce057178" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:12:10.640" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="In my country, power comes in 220V by default. My original 3DS charger only accepts 110V power. I'm taking my 3DS everywhere, so I can't bring the big power converter I already have at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any recommended small converter for converting 220V power to 110V?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="301" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="736a6eb3-72c8-47d2-801c-9b48ce057178" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:12:10.640" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="Small 220V to 110V power converter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="302" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="736a6eb3-72c8-47d2-801c-9b48ce057178" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:12:10.640" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 157 edit id of 23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="303" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="7c38c672-e833-423f-bd61-34cd31c4bfa7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:12:18.927" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="I'm considering buying new UPS for my PC. I'm hoping the new UPS can still hold power for around 15-30 minutes so my computer can properly shutdown. It should also come with surge protection. My PC came with [Corsair 600W PSU](http://www.corsair.com/en/cx-series-cx600m-modular-atx-power-supply-600-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu) and I'm using a [24&quot; BENQ monitor](http://gaming.benq.com/gaming-monitor/rl2455hm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the [ICA UPS CE600](http://www.icaups.co.id/dproduct.php?id=1501) meet these criteria? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="7c38c672-e833-423f-bd61-34cd31c4bfa7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:12:18.927" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 157 edit id of 24" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="95" RevisionGUID="0afd6bde-56ab-447e-954d-caa4583ef542" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:29:20.670" UserId="174" Text="I would think entry level servers with RAID, Hot swap and if needed with redundant UPS would be sufficient for this. Any of the entry level servers with Dell, HP and IBM should be the bill. To keep budget low, SATA as opposed to SAS hard drives (keep in mind the reduced RPMs) and build in SATA RAID can keep the cost low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="309" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="613c3143-c138-42ed-80a3-a1b78e35ca5a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:42:01.027" UserId="174" Text="We develop cost effective hospital information systems for rural India which runs as a web application. To make the overall cost of ownership low, we use Ubuntu as the server and  client OS. To drive the cost further down, I would like to move away from entry level PCs as client devices to thin clients running Ubuntu (or other free Linux variants). What are the thin client devices which can run Ubuntu available in the market?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="310" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="613c3143-c138-42ed-80a3-a1b78e35ca5a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:42:01.027" UserId="174" Text="Recommendations of thin clients running Ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="311" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="613c3143-c138-42ed-80a3-a1b78e35ca5a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:42:01.027" UserId="174" Text="&lt;thinclient&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="98" RevisionGUID="953e2d07-1265-47de-b475-d01b34922afa" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:15:40.840" UserId="177" Text="Basically you have 2 options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hand-held 3D scanners (cost at least $300): Sense 3D scanner, Structure.io, Go!SCAN, Fuel3D. Should work out-of-the-box.&#xD;&#xA; 2. USB depth sensors (difficult to find &lt; $100). These have a few limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - All don't come with an SDK that creates high quality polygon models from 3D pointcloud. You'll end up coding.&#xD;&#xA;    - Do not contain an IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) like , so models may be mis-aligned.&#xD;&#xA;    - Not wireless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are asking hasn't hit the market yet. I'd definitely invest some more money and choose option #1.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="314" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="a77639df-78a7-46f5-80e3-e234431a9469" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:41:15.777" UserId="74" Comment="No need to abbreviate &quot;comp&quot; here, but PC works if brevity is your goal" Text="There are always certain chipsets out there — ones that are reasonably up to date — though they can be difficult to keep up with. No doubt many here do. I'm asking about chipsets, RAM, and also generally what computer is good. What specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget, a cheaper computer that can still handle the workload would be better.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;And if that's not what you yourself would get for that goal (e.g. if you wouldn't go cheap), then what _would_ you get or recommend to others? For example, if somebody of average income is an enthusiast. I'd want the capacity for at least 32GB RAM because my current laptop is 16GB and I use 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Visual Studio too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="315" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="a77639df-78a7-46f5-80e3-e234431a9469" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:41:15.777" UserId="74" Comment="No need to abbreviate &quot;comp&quot; here, but PC works if brevity is your goal" Text="What do you suggest for a PC with 80 chrome tabs, 20 virtual machines?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="316" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="a77639df-78a7-46f5-80e3-e234431a9469" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:41:15.777" UserId="74" Comment="No need to abbreviate &quot;comp&quot; here, but PC works if brevity is your goal" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;web-browsing&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="317" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="a77639df-78a7-46f5-80e3-e234431a9469" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:41:15.777" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 135 edit id of 26" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="95" RevisionGUID="16066701-0887-4434-a0bc-572acc5fe771" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:55:35.650" UserId="174" Comment="fixed grammer" Text="I would think entry level servers with RAID, Hot swap and if needed with redundant Powersupply would be sufficient for this. Any of the entry level servers with Dell, HP and IBM should fit the bill. To keep budget low, SATA as opposed to SAS hard drives (keep in mind the reduced RPMs) and built-in SATA RAID can help" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="99" RevisionGUID="78fb0724-3368-442f-b0d7-941286c5120b" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:51:03.830" UserId="155" Text="If you're just coding and avoiding RSI, get a keyboard with [scissor switches](http://deskthority.net/wiki/Scissor_switch). This switch type is used in the famous ultra thin Apple keyboard and most modern laptops. It's extremely quiet so you won't get annoyed and it's key feature is it's low profile meaning you don't have to press keys down &quot;really far.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a mechanical keyboard, most switch types need the user to press 3-4mm (from initial to actuation point), which doesn't seem like much at all, but after a ton of key presses it adds up quickly. Scissor switches reduce this distance to just 1-2mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You definitely want a keyboard with scissor switches if you're just coding." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="43" RevisionGUID="33256524-9121-4694-9405-8fe5ef4b0c46" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:00:42.140" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar, product name" Text="For a hardware project, I'm looking for a simple, robust Bluetooth controller on which I can solder buttons. I found the [Bluefruit EZ-Key][1] but I don't like it that I can't change the name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've Googled quite a lot but cannot find any alternative. Are there any other standalone Bluetooth controllers around? Or is it possible to build one yourself?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.adafruit.com/product/1535 &quot;BlueFruit ez key&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="325" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="43" RevisionGUID="33256524-9121-4694-9405-8fe5ef4b0c46" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:00:42.140" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 111 edit id of 13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="101" RevisionGUID="01217edc-079b-4761-b325-99a11200c359" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:49:38.250" UserId="155" Text="The [GW 2050IP](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA46G34J5235) seems to be a great buy. $112 and decreased price for bulk buys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p @ 2.0MP/30FPS (3.0MP/17FPS) &amp;mdash; if you're willing to take a blow to FPS, 3-5 megapixels would do a lot of good.&#xD;&#xA;- Built for outdoor and indoor use&#xD;&#xA;- 42Pcs infrared LEDs for illumination (up to 130ft)&#xD;&#xA;- Optical zoom of 2.8-12mm &amp;mdash; the downside here is that as focal length changes, focus changes with it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model also includes remote connection via a mobile app and noise reduction among other nifty features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="102" RevisionGUID="68fa58f7-7191-42fa-9045-285cb3621b78" CreationDate="2015-09-10T08:30:42.667" UserId="45" Text="Use the emulator that comes with the Android development kit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost: $0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only point of testing with a physical device is if you want to check the compatibility and ergonomy of your application with a physical device: how it makes use of non-ubiquitous peripherals such as a fingerprint reader, how it interacts with manufacturer-specific software, etc. This is useful if you test with hundreds of different devices. Testing with one cheap device won't teach you anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The emulator gives you more possibilities than any single phones. For example, you can (and are encouraged to) [test with multiple screen resolutions](http://developer.android.com/guide/practices/screens_support.html).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="103" RevisionGUID="c6456399-b3f9-4d19-b563-e0fac56f0b55" CreationDate="2015-09-10T09:26:10.297" UserId="197" Text="It will be hard to find a stereo camera for &lt; 100USD. Still, you can have a look on [Microsoft Kinect][1] and [Asus Xtion PRO LIVE][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no such stereo camera with a wireless video transmission in the market however you can make one using IEEE 802.11 transmission bands.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dev.windows.com/en-us/kinect&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/3D-Sensor/Xtion_PRO_LIVE/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="330" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="baa17f76-110e-4123-8e61-2867bc26f2f7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T09:28:23.143" UserId="-1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:23,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Anachor&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:180,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;bilbo_pingouin&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:163,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Red Shift&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:193,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dreamwalker&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="331" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="104" RevisionGUID="3cc5f803-1847-462d-a768-08abf7bde22d" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:18:09.630" UserId="198" Text="In my experience (new mechanical user):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Advantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Key Rollover - Mechanical keyboards should support NKRO (infinite simultaneous key presses) over PS/2 and 6KRO (6 simultaneous key presses not including 4 modifiers like CTRL etc., so 10 simultaneous) over USB*. Being able to press this many keys means the only limit to your typing speed is your fingers, not the keyboard. &#xD;&#xA; - Repair/Customisation - Keycaps are easy to remove so you can move them around (mine is Colemak. I've also heard good things about Workman). Also this means replacing keys and cleaning are a lot easier than on many non-mechanicals.&#xD;&#xA; - Build quality - As a premium product the build quality and reliability is very high. As an example the standard [Cherry MX switches][1] can withstand 50 million key presses compared to 5-10 from rubber dome keys.&#xD;&#xA; - Feel - There is something nice about the key presses of a mechanical keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Specifically a limitation of the USB protocol. This may be manufacturer specific but I'm not sure. If any knows comment below!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Aesthetics**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For many people the aesthetics are important. If you spend a lot of money on something you often want it too look good. With my keyboard free custom keycaps and printing wer included so mine looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![We do what we must because we can][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Disadvantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Cost is significantly higher than a normal keyboard (mine was $200 approx).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cherrycorp.com/product/mx-series/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uH4Bb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="332" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="58" RevisionGUID="6d642f43-d1de-481d-b50d-e5b8293407e7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:20:04.750" UserId="24" Comment="converted to numbered list to make answer clearer" Text="There are some more options (added to JonasCZ's answer):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [KVM][1] - generally a good option to control servers remotely. &#xD;&#xA;2. Raspberry Pi or Arduino (etc) - easy and cheap. In case of Raspberry Pi you can connect it to the necessary ports, connect to the net and that's it. They also have pins which are easily programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="333" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="58" RevisionGUID="6d642f43-d1de-481d-b50d-e5b8293407e7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:20:04.750" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 58 edit id of 29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="460b2369-1bac-44a7-b745-4f4735eb6ce7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:30:44.577" UserId="135" Comment="changed to just 6 VMs." Text="There are always certain chipsets out there — ones that are reasonably up to date — though they can be difficult to keep up with. No doubt many here do. I'm asking about chipsets, RAM, and also generally what computer is good. What specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget, a cheaper computer that can still handle the workload would be better.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;And if that's not what you yourself would get for that goal (e.g. if you wouldn't go cheap), then what _would_ you get or recommend to others? For example, if somebody of average income is an enthusiast. I'd want the capacity for at least 32GB RAM because my current laptop is 16GB and I use 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Visual Studio too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDITED**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had said 20 virtual machines, though maybe that was a crazy idea&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's say, 6 active running virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Win 10, Win 7, Win XP, WinXP_B, Debian, Ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of the VMs, minimalistic in their usage.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="336" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="460b2369-1bac-44a7-b745-4f4735eb6ce7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:30:44.577" UserId="135" Comment="changed to just 6 VMs." Text="What do you suggest for a PC with 80 chrome tabs, 6 virtual machines?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="30" RevisionGUID="f2e6974d-56a5-49e4-9e06-6adc84acd5e8" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:04:20.747" UserId="24" Comment="converted to numbered list to make answer clearer" Text="There are essentially two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A USB hub with power control, such as [this one](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush), which was designed for this purpose. It seems like some other USB hubs can do this too, check [this question](http://stackoverflow.com/q/3246077/4428462) over at StackOverflow for specifics and possibly other methods of doing this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. DIY, with a USB-controlled relay to switch the power to the usb device on and off, see [this blog post](http://pintant.cat/2012/05/12/power-off-usb-device/) for an illustration of how someone did it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Maybe fix the problem with your usb device ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="338" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="30" RevisionGUID="f2e6974d-56a5-49e4-9e06-6adc84acd5e8" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:04:20.747" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 67 edit id of 28" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="105" RevisionGUID="4f59b86c-661b-4e82-88d4-da67a027e7f0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:44:14.650" UserId="67" Text="Let's say I want to buy a cheap USB device which does X. I also want this device to be compatible with Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that in many cases, such devices may be generic or unbranded, and there may not be much information about them on the web to help me figure out if others have used that particular device successfully with Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB Video capture devices or TV Sticks,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sound cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi Devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bazillions of other awesome things&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any ways to (try) to determine if this device is compatible with Linux, before buying it ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I vaguely remember reading that one can look at the Windows drivers for clues as to the chips used, and then find if those are Linux-compatible, is this possible ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="105" RevisionGUID="4f59b86c-661b-4e82-88d4-da67a027e7f0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:44:14.650" UserId="67" Text="How can I determine if a specific device works with Linux before buying it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="105" RevisionGUID="4f59b86c-661b-4e82-88d4-da67a027e7f0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:44:14.650" UserId="67" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="106" RevisionGUID="93d89114-b1dd-49c2-8312-7cb6d36caf1a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:47:03.630" UserId="209" Text="I'm considering building a hobby [acoustic holography](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustic_holography) setup. I would need several (at least 12, I think) microphones to do this, but I have a limited budget. Does anyone have recommendations for microphones that are relatively cheap but still good enough to get decent resolution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="343" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="106" RevisionGUID="93d89114-b1dd-49c2-8312-7cb6d36caf1a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:47:03.630" UserId="209" Text="Microphones for acoustic holography" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="344" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="106" RevisionGUID="93d89114-b1dd-49c2-8312-7cb6d36caf1a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:47:03.630" UserId="209" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;acoustic-holography&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="87" RevisionGUID="e75f9359-2ac1-4803-98e5-291adf1da075" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:11:28.623" UserId="164" Comment="added 385 characters in body" Text="As long as you aren't trying to run a hair dryer off of it, [this][1] adapter should do the trick. It isn't grounded, which means it I would not expect it to do very intensive work, and some plugs may require you to fill the grounding peg hole to get a current. You should have some sense of supervision if you plan on drawing any more power from it. Though this adapter does have its problems, but it is quite lightweight and will get the job done for your purposes (and your 3ds).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Blackberry/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441848825&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=220%20to%20110v" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="a8895190-fb6d-4230-94ab-9f8189a6fdb2" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:13:11.927" UserId="70" Text="I've looked into buying a router, rather than renting from my ISP, multiple times but have no idea what the differences are between a bottom of the line router or a top of the line router.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would guess the wireless signal strength would be one of the main things but how can I tell by looking at the box what the differences are even for this?  I would be using this for general home use as well as gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="348" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="a8895190-fb6d-4230-94ab-9f8189a6fdb2" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:13:11.927" UserId="70" Text="When looking to buy a router for home use what are the specs/features that I should be aware of?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="349" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="a8895190-fb6d-4230-94ab-9f8189a6fdb2" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:13:11.927" UserId="70" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="d4173963-5c64-4138-8b0e-ac897d9e7746" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:07:35.277" UserId="205" Text="I personally ordered the OnePlus Two but to be honest i would go for the ASUS Zenfone 2(version: ZE551ML, thats important!) if you can live with some bloatware(not that much) beacause:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - it costs **300-350€/211-255£** and its sold on amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA; - it has **4 GB RAM** thats plenty of RAM for gaming&#xD;&#xA; - the processor(Intel Atom Z3580) is **quad-core** clocked at **2.3 GHz** and it seems to have no/less heating issues than the Snapdragon 810 (e.g. used in the OnePlus 2) &#xD;&#xA; - its a **5,5&quot;** phone with a **1080p/Full-HD** resolution, so it fits in your pocket and offers **401ppi**&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **13MP** rear camera(with dual tone flash, autofocus, HDR) and a **5MP** front facing camera and both do their job; compare it here: http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?idType=1&amp;idPhone1=6917&amp;idPhone2=7247&amp;idPhone3=6902). But it can only record videos in 1080p @ 30fps&#xD;&#xA; - according to Gsmarena it can create **hotspots**&#xD;&#xA; - it can be ordered with **16/32/64GB** internal storage and you can add up to an **extra 64GB with a microSD** card&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **3000mAh** battery combined with the fact that its no QHD resolution it should should be plenty of battery life so you'll most likely get through the day without recharging&#xD;&#xA; - some nice extras are **FM radio** with RDS, **fast charging**(60% inf 40mins according to Asus) and **Corning Gorilla Glass 3** for the protection&#xD;&#xA; - runs Android Lolipop with Asus ZenUi ontop(some bloatware preinstalled but not much and i think youll be able to uninstall most of it)&#xD;&#xA; - supports many carriers but you should check here http://www.willmyphonework.net/ if it supports your carrier, ill assume you come from GB so the global/international version will most likely be the one that works&#xD;&#xA; - full specsheet: http://www.gsmarena.com/asus_zenfone_2_ze551ml-6917.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** &#xD;&#xA;So a great phone for a low price tag and you can buy it quick and easy unlocked on Amazon. Some more expensive phones maybe offer a fingerprint scanner or QHD or wireless charging but they are not on your criteria list and are just some extras that sometimes even come with a disadvantage(e.g. QHD-&gt; higher resolution but drains more battery and needs a better GPU then a FullHD screen for the same gaming power)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;Some other phones that you can look at too are the OnePlus Two and the upcoming Nexus 5x. Some will suggest the Moto X Style/Pure beacause it can be compared to the OP2 or Zenfone 2 spec-wise and cost around the same as the OP2(both around 400€) in the US but in Germany(most likely in the UK too) the Moto X Style/Pure costs around 600€ and the lower speced Moto X Play cost 400€ here. So i wouldnt recommend any of the Moto X phones. I wont the OnePlus 2 beacause its hard to get(invite system), has some problems and nobody knows when theyll realease updates for it and also no NFC if you need that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And just one general thing: Watch/read a few reviews by urself before buying the phone you want beacause they include some more infos that might be interesting or deal breaking but arent mentioned here!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="9fd06b9d-2ef8-492d-a0c2-78f9dde03ac7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:14:48.370" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar, tags" Text="I am looking for a camera that can scan 3D objects for use in 3D modeling programs like Blender. Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SDK&#xD;&#xA; - quality 3D scans&#xD;&#xA; - portable, preferably wireless&#xD;&#xA; - less than $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="353" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="9fd06b9d-2ef8-492d-a0c2-78f9dde03ac7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:14:48.370" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar, tags" Text="Camera with depth sensing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="354" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="9fd06b9d-2ef8-492d-a0c2-78f9dde03ac7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:14:48.370" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar, tags" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;3d-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="355" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="9fd06b9d-2ef8-492d-a0c2-78f9dde03ac7" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:14:48.370" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 153 edit id of 25" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="356" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="be89f044-5dc5-483a-9f63-4d02f3fa5c97" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:17:26.523" UserId="163" Comment="Added PoE as a tag" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="357" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="be89f044-5dc5-483a-9f63-4d02f3fa5c97" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:17:26.523" Comment="Proposed by 163 approved by 84 edit id of 27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="109" RevisionGUID="fbdb16d0-d745-445f-a41d-11bad745059e" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:33:47.297" UserId="84" Text="My primary wireless router is whatever is built in to my ISP's gateway device, which is subject to somewhat frequent change.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to extend this network signal over a larger residential lot.  So I'm looking for wireless extenders that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Support 802.11 b, g, n, and ac (at least).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Just plug-in and work without any compatibility limitations, since I don't get to choose my primary router. &#xD;&#xA; 1. Will most cost-effectively blanket a 1-acre residence where the base router is located roughly at the center of the lot and house.  I.e., if a single extender might be powerful enough to place at one side of the house and reach around the outside then great.  Or, if two or three significantly cheaper ones can work harmoniously from the corners of the house that's fine too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="360" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="109" RevisionGUID="fbdb16d0-d745-445f-a41d-11bad745059e" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:33:47.297" UserId="84" Text="Wi-Fi extenders" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="109" RevisionGUID="fbdb16d0-d745-445f-a41d-11bad745059e" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:33:47.297" UserId="84" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="110" RevisionGUID="e342453a-1363-4057-97ea-51d71a6142a1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:49:26.440" UserId="175" Text="The problem with those kinds of USB devices is that it's very difficult to know what chip they are actually using. Some devices in the same series might even use different components if the manufacturer was able to source a slightly different component at a cheaper price. They would then ship a Windows driver that supports the different variations of hardware components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It may be possible to glean something about the used chips by looking at the Windows or Mac drivers. What you would be looking for are strings that you could match against existing Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, before going through that trouble, you could do the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. See if the manufacturer or seller has some mention of Linux compatibility, either in the available documentation, marketing material, or online forums.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Search online for any of the marketing terms for the device to see if anyone else has already tried using it with Linux.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Search in one of the Linux driver databases. There are several available (and some list other OSes as well), such as http://www.linux-drivers.org/, https://wiki.debian.org/Hardware, https://h-node.org/, and https://www.linuxquestions.org/hcl/.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, if the manufacturer doesn't declare Linux support for the device, chances are it won't very well even if there are Linux drivers. Then again, even devices with declared Linux support don't always work well or might not support all of the device's functionality. Ultimately, there are no guarantees and the only way to know for sure is to try. I've had some luck with shops that would allow me to bring a laptop and try the device in the store before deciding to buy or not. (In those cases I've mostly found that the USB device didn't work at all or was practically unusable.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="111" RevisionGUID="09c2420b-3d9e-4fe8-b0cf-fc8d314d39e9" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:54:48.537" UserId="97" Text="**Security**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured such that future configuration changes can only be made from the LAN and not from the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Is the router protected from XSS/XSRF attacks which could let websites visited by computers on your LAN get control over the router?&#xD;&#xA;- Does the vendor provide firmware security updates, and are they easy to install? Is it also easy to downgrade to a previous firmware version?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv4 NAT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess more than 99% of users currently need this, you can expect pretty much all routers to support this, but the quality varies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How many connection tracking entries can the router handle?&#xD;&#xA;- What happens when the limit is exceeded?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to forward ports from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to forward protocols without port numbers from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCP server on the router be configured with both static and dynamic assignments?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCP server on the router &#xD;&#xA;be configured to be hand out DNS server addresses of your own choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv6**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current trends indicate that the majority of users will be using IPv6 three years from now. If you intend to use the router for more than three years, you are likely going to need IPv6.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does the router support it at all?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured over IPv6? (This is not critical, but it can be very convenient).&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured with static IPv6 on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to act as DHCPv6 client on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCPv6 client request a prefix delegation from the ISP?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with dual SSID?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with a guest segment which cannot communicate with wired LAN ports?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it measure ambient noise level across the frequency band and automatically choose the channel with least noise?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that if reliably low latency and low packet loss is needed, WiFi will never beat a wired connection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="9be33813-cc58-4d55-b5cc-9c6ed42bf83f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:00:45.350" UserId="84" Text="I'd like to boost my screen space and resolution.  My primary monitor is currently a Samsung SyncMaster 2343BWX: 2048x1152 native resolution running off the DVI output of my [GA-H77M-D3H](http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4388) motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't picked a monitor yet, so suppose I'd like to go up to 4k-class monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Will a single output type &amp;ndash; e.g., either DisplayPort or DVI-D &amp;ndash; be adequate for all monitors and resolution classes up to 4k?  Or would I want a card that offers both?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Will any graphics card offering that output be adequate to the task?  Or do I need to look for some additional minimum specs on the graphics card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do high-end gaming so refresh rates aren't an issue.  My primary purpose for upgrading would be to facilitate high-res photo editing, eventually do 4k video editing, and just get more screen real-estate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="365" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="9be33813-cc58-4d55-b5cc-9c6ed42bf83f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:00:45.350" UserId="84" Text="PC support beyond 1920x1080 resolution, up to 4k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="9be33813-cc58-4d55-b5cc-9c6ed42bf83f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:00:45.350" UserId="84" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="111" RevisionGUID="a86dcd7d-6d50-436c-b8a4-b478c3bbdac2" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:06:23.723" UserId="97" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="**Security**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured such that future configuration changes can only be made from the LAN and not from the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Is the router protected from XSS/XSRF attacks which could let websites visited by computers on your LAN get control over the router?&#xD;&#xA;- Does the vendor provide firmware security updates, and are they easy to install? Is it also easy to downgrade to a previous firmware version?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv4 NAT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess more than 99% of users currently need this, you can expect pretty much all routers to support this, but the quality varies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How many connection tracking entries can the router handle?&#xD;&#xA;- What happens when the limit is exceeded?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to forward ports from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to forward protocols without port numbers from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCP server on the router be configured with both static and dynamic assignments?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCP server on the router &#xD;&#xA;be configured to be hand out DNS server addresses of your own choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv6**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current trends indicate that the majority of users will be using IPv6 three years from now. If you intend to use the router for more than three years, you are likely going to need IPv6.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does the router support it at all?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured over IPv6? (This is not critical, but it can be very convenient).&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured with static IPv6 on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to act as DHCPv6 client on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCPv6 client request a prefix delegation from the ISP?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router forward packets in hardware? (If not, the CPU may become a bottleneck)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with dual SSID?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with a guest segment which cannot communicate with wired LAN ports?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it measure ambient noise level across the frequency band and automatically choose the channel with least noise?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that if reliably low latency and low packet loss is needed, WiFi will never beat a wired connection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="113" RevisionGUID="490ef4e1-7036-4bf4-8c21-397b11135d6a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:12:39.197" UserId="132" Text="First, you should figure out what your actual power consumption is. A 600W PSU only draws 600W if the hardware needs it. You can get a Kill-A-Watt or similar monitor in the $15 USD range. You can also get a decent ballpark number from online calculators \[1] \[2] \[3]. Don't forget to include your monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The UPS you linked only supplies 300W. It gives 10 minutes as the backup time, and I'm going to have to assume that's at full (300W) power draw, as I don't see any other stats on the battery. So, no, it probably won't fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could take a look at the APC \[4] or CyberPower \[5] UPS selectors to get an idea of what would fit your needs and the price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\[1] http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator  &#xD;&#xA;\[2] http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com  &#xD;&#xA;\[3] http://powersupplycalculator.net  &#xD;&#xA;\[4] http://www.apc.com/tools/ups_selector&#xD;&#xA;\[5] http://cyberpower.advizia.com/CyberPower/v45/?l=Cyberpower_UPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="114" RevisionGUID="d3a77aad-abfd-430c-87b1-55dbfc64c3cd" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:16:28.127" UserId="219" Text="If a GPU says it can do 4k, that is a minimum requirement for a desktop environment. If however you're going to be doing 4k video/photo editing, you'll want to look at recommended GPU specs for the software you'll be using.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU memory and clock speed are the next main concerns. If you're software is mainly CPU intensive, most 4k GPU's will be good enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="115" RevisionGUID="dd710272-ccae-43fe-8337-f338639f6394" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:21:52.023" UserId="219" Text="32-64 GB of RAM definitely. Probably get a chipset that goes up to 64GB but get 32GB first leaving extra slots available to upgrade. VM RAM can fluctuate and is largely based on what your doing with it and how much you need to give it. I can run 3-4 VM's which I deem to be fairly average VM's + about 40-60 chrome tabs off of 32GB no problem. There's usually about 8GB free once everything loaded up and since background CPU usage is often pretty low, I can game on it while all this is open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll also want to get a beastly CPU - more cores, higher clock, the better. A specific chipset isn't that relevant - newer costs more but often has performance &amp; efficiency gains. Do what works for you and your budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="371" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="116" RevisionGUID="2f2bcefe-bc92-4e44-b5b9-7b33bfff2f8c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:29:37.320" UserId="219" Text="Definitely doable. Often you cannot port the landline directly to a VoIP or Google Voice number but you can port it to a temporary cell phone and then to a Google Voice number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/voice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's $20 if you want to keep the number but if you want to just get a new number, that is free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use the [Hangouts][1] + [Hangouts Dialer][2] / Google Voice apps to get the calls received on your smart phone(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.talk&amp;hl=en&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.hangoutsdialer&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="116" RevisionGUID="8e38dfd9-b770-4180-8ed6-858358e54fdd" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:36:10.887" UserId="219" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="Definitely doable. Often you cannot port the landline directly to a VoIP or Google Voice number but you can port it to a temporary cell phone and then to a Google Voice number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/voice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's $20 if you want to keep the number but if you want to just get a new number, that is free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use the [Hangouts][1] + [Hangouts Dialer][2] / Google Voice apps to get the calls received on your smart phone(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like http://www.magicjack.com/index.html would be another approach to keeping the landline but being able to forward calls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.talk&amp;hl=en&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.hangoutsdialer&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="374" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="a640dfd4-c853-41d1-a331-be0753601605" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:25:03.123" UserId="84" Comment="Added UPS tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="375" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="a640dfd4-c853-41d1-a331-be0753601605" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:25:03.123" Comment="Proposed by 84 approved by 157 edit id of 30" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="117" RevisionGUID="b616261c-e418-432c-b7d0-1ba5d1ca7935" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:35:38.400" UserId="61" Text="It should also be noted that along with Enigma's answer that the GPU should post what version of port they use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two most popular are HDMI/DVI and Display Port. Most 4k screens only accept HDMI (no DVI) and Display port ([example][1]), research what is supported on the model you plan to buy. Most sub-4k monitors support VGA (old), DVI, HDMI and Display Port however not all at once depending on the quality of the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick [reference][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 1.4 supports 4k at only 30Hz (currently the most popular)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 2.0 supports 4k at 60Hz&#xD;&#xA; - Display Port 1.2 /w Multi-Stream Transport(MST) supports 4k at 60Hz (currently the most popular)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently on the nVida side most of the 600/700 series that have a display port plug [support 4k][3] but in my experience will struggle with it if there is a lot of dynamic content.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;*For the sake of this answer 4k is referencing 3840 by 2160, however it can mean other resolutions check [here][4].*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/it/monitor/uhd-monitor/LU28D590DS/ZC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cnet.com/news/4k-hdmi-cables-are-nonsense/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://developer.nvidia.com/4k-ultra-high-resolution-development&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution#Resolutions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="117" RevisionGUID="baebf1ec-3f39-446a-a969-bacfe1a24034" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:44:32.473" UserId="61" Comment="references and such " Text="It should also be noted that along with Enigma's answer that the GPU should post what version of port they use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two most popular are HDMI/DVI and Display Port. Most 4k screens only accept HDMI (no DVI) and Display port ([example][1]), research what is supported on the model you plan to buy. Most sub-4k monitors support VGA (old), DVI, HDMI and Display Port however not all at once depending on the quality of the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick reference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 1.4 supports 4k at only 30Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 2.0 supports 4k at 60Hz ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - Display Port 1.2 /w Multi-Stream Transport(MST) supports 4k at 60Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][3])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently on the nVida side most of the 600/700 series that have a display port plug [support 4k][4] but in my experience will struggle with it if there is a lot of dynamic content.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;*For the sake of this answer 4k is referencing 3840 by 2160, however it can mean other resolutions check [here][5]. Also use of an adapter will not grant the full potential Hz of a port see [here][6].*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/it/monitor/uhd-monitor/LU28D590DS/ZC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cnet.com/news/4k-hdmi-cables-are-nonsense/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.vesa.org/faqs/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://developer.nvidia.com/4k-ultra-high-resolution-development&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution#Resolutions&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2554074/displayport-hdmi.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="378" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="118" RevisionGUID="058e79fc-15a4-4875-83db-cf397880dcb1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:49:03.900" UserId="122" Text="I have had this need myself (though not to cover an acre) and I eventually got tired of the horrendously poor capabilities offered by ISP devices.  Now, rather than using the WiFi settings of those devices, I turn them off completely and always use a separate router.  Once you have configured it to your liking, it is completely plug &amp; play because it is completely independent of the ISP router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with the venerable Linksys WRT-54g (that will show you how long ago it was), and that meant that I discovered the fantastic [DD-WRT][1] firmware.  Since then, DD-WRT compatibility has been my number one concern when upgrading to the latest tech.  First, I went for the Linksys [WRT-600n][2], added a [Buffalo N600][3] (which comes with DD-WRT as stock firmware) and now use a Netgear [Nighthawk R7000][4] as my primary router with the older Linksys as my range extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's worth noting - you don't have to specifically buy an extender, any router with decent firmware can be configured to function as an extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of actual recommendations, the Nighthawk is pricey but has been excellent for me so far, has plenty of horsepower, USB 3.0 support and more.  Netgear also has a range [extender model][5] that I have not used personally but have heard good things about from friends.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus, I personally think it looks cool :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nighthawk R7000][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To cover larger areas, you can also replace the antennae on many routers (Nighthawk included) with larger, extendable, high gain antennae so that you can mount them away from the router and get far better coverage. If you are on a budget I once used a colander as a [make-shift directional antenna][7] to better enable line of sight connectivity to another router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other note: if you have a router with separately configurable 2.4 and 5Ghz interfaces then you can restrict the lower range, lower speed legacy devices (b, g) to the 2.4Ghz spectrum only and take full advantage of the 5Ghz goodness and hhigher range on the more modern devices.  Again, this is something I have done very successfully with DD-WRT on the Linksys and the Netgear models - I have one network with a `-g` postfix using the 2.4 network (actually N in mixed mode) and one with `-n` (which is AC, N only), both with the same password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/WRT600N&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.buffalotech.com/products/wireless/dd-wrt-1/airstation-highpower-n600-open-source-dd-wrt-wireless-router&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-range-extenders/EX7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://lifehacker.com/build-a-directional-wi-fi-antenna-from-kitchen-gear-and-1686173362" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="118" RevisionGUID="f102d355-f49c-47ee-90dd-0e70c091a179" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:55:15.817" UserId="122" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="I have had this need myself (though not to cover an acre) and I eventually got tired of the horrendously poor capabilities offered by ISP devices.  Now, rather than using the WiFi settings of those devices, I turn them off completely and always use a separate router.  Once you have configured it to your liking, it is completely plug &amp; play because it is completely independent of the ISP router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with the venerable [Linksys WRT-54G][1] (that will show you how long ago it was - I loved that router), and that meant that I discovered the fantastic [DD-WRT][2] firmware.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since then, DD-WRT compatibility has been my number one requirement when upgrading to the latest tech.  First, I went for the Linksys [WRT-600n][3], added a [Buffalo N600][4] (which comes with DD-WRT as stock firmware) and now use a Netgear [Nighthawk R7000][5] as my primary router with the older Linksys as my range extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's worth noting - you don't have to specifically buy an extender, any router with decent firmware can be configured to function as an extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of actual recommendations, the Nighthawk is pricey but has been excellent for me so far, has plenty of horsepower, USB 3.0 support and more.  Netgear also has a range [extender model][6] that I have not used personally but have heard good things about from friends.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus, I personally think it looks cool :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nighthawk R7000][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To cover larger areas, you can also replace the antennae on many routers (Nighthawk included) with larger, extendable, high gain antennae so that you can mount them away from the router and get far better coverage. If you are on a budget I once used a colander as a [make-shift directional antenna][8] to better enable line of sight connectivity to another router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other note: if you have a router with separately configurable 2.4 and 5Ghz interfaces then you can restrict the lower range, lower speed legacy devices (b, g) to the 2.4Ghz spectrum only and take full advantage of the 5Ghz goodness and hhigher range on the more modern devices.  Again, this is something I have done very successfully with DD-WRT on the Linksys and the Netgear models - I have one network with a `-g` postfix using the 2.4 network (actually N in mixed mode) and one with `-n` (which is AC, N only), both with the same password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linksys_WRT54G_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/WRT600N&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.buffalotech.com/products/wireless/dd-wrt-1/airstation-highpower-n600-open-source-dd-wrt-wireless-router&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-range-extenders/EX7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://lifehacker.com/build-a-directional-wi-fi-antenna-from-kitchen-gear-and-1686173362" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="117" RevisionGUID="b28dff2a-7213-4b88-8895-8bbc0fb30969" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:13:25.417" UserId="61" Comment="updates for clarifications" Text="It should also be noted that along with GPU memory and clock speed (see Enigma's answer) that the GPU should also post what version of port the card uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two most popular are HDMI/DVI and Display Port. Most 4k screens only accept HDMI (no DVI) and Display port ([example][1]), research what is supported on the model you plan to buy. Most sub-4k monitors support VGA (old), DVI, HDMI and Display Port however not all at once depending on the quality of the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick reference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 1.4 supports 4k at only 30Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 2.0 supports 4k at 60Hz ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - Display Port 1.2 /w Multi-Stream Transport(MST) supports 4k at 60Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][3])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently on the nVida side most of the 600/700 series that have a display port plug [support 4k][4] but in my experience will struggle with it if there is a lot of dynamic content.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;*For the sake of this answer 4k is referencing 3840 by 2160, however it can mean other resolutions check [here][5]. Also use of an adapter will not grant the full potential Hz of a port see [here][6].*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/it/monitor/uhd-monitor/LU28D590DS/ZC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cnet.com/news/4k-hdmi-cables-are-nonsense/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.vesa.org/faqs/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://developer.nvidia.com/4k-ultra-high-resolution-development&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution#Resolutions&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2554074/displayport-hdmi.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="381" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="119" RevisionGUID="ddff1b71-1ea8-447c-ad37-91b28061a3cd" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:28:56.943" UserId="146" Text="If you have an Android it's very simple, you don't need any apps or external devices.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Just go into the call settings, and scroll all the way down. There are the Internet call settings, where you can directly log in to your VoIP provider and answer calls wherever you have an internet connection (make sure to check the `Receive incoming calls` check box).&lt;br&gt; I use this solution to connect to my router, to use the landline it (the router) is connected to, and it works fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="118" RevisionGUID="df6d1add-2d34-4b46-9960-8ae47816b5b0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:45:09.353" UserId="75" Comment="Resized image" Text="I have had this need myself (though not to cover an acre) and I eventually got tired of the horrendously poor capabilities offered by ISP devices.  Now, rather than using the WiFi settings of those devices, I turn them off completely and always use a separate router.  Once you have configured it to your liking, it is completely plug &amp; play because it is completely independent of the ISP router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with the venerable [Linksys WRT-54G][1] (that will show you how long ago it was - I loved that router), and that meant that I discovered the fantastic [DD-WRT][2] firmware.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since then, DD-WRT compatibility has been my number one requirement when upgrading to the latest tech.  First, I went for the Linksys [WRT-600n][3], added a [Buffalo N600][4] (which comes with DD-WRT as stock firmware) and now use a Netgear [Nighthawk R7000][5] as my primary router with the older Linksys as my range extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's worth noting - you don't have to specifically buy an extender, any router with decent firmware can be configured to function as an extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of actual recommendations, the Nighthawk is pricey but has been excellent for me so far, has plenty of horsepower, USB 3.0 support and more.  Netgear also has a range [extender model][6] that I have not used personally but have heard good things about from friends.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus, I personally think it looks cool :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nighthawk R7000][7]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To cover larger areas, you can also replace the antennae on many routers (Nighthawk included) with larger, extendable, high gain antennae so that you can mount them away from the router and get far better coverage. If you are on a budget I once used a colander as a [make-shift directional antenna][8] to better enable line of sight connectivity to another router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other note: if you have a router with separately configurable 2.4 and 5Ghz interfaces then you can restrict the lower range, lower speed legacy devices (b, g) to the 2.4Ghz spectrum only and take full advantage of the 5Ghz goodness and hhigher range on the more modern devices.  Again, this is something I have done very successfully with DD-WRT on the Linksys and the Netgear models - I have one network with a `-g` postfix using the 2.4 network (actually N in mixed mode) and one with `-n` (which is AC, N only), both with the same password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linksys_WRT54G_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/WRT600N&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.buffalotech.com/products/wireless/dd-wrt-1/airstation-highpower-n600-open-source-dd-wrt-wireless-router&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-range-extenders/EX7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbHm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://lifehacker.com/build-a-directional-wi-fi-antenna-from-kitchen-gear-and-1686173362" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="383" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="118" RevisionGUID="df6d1add-2d34-4b46-9960-8ae47816b5b0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:45:09.353" Comment="Proposed by 75 approved by 122 edit id of 32" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="120" RevisionGUID="08e03ff3-ec36-42bf-af77-9e4de550e4fc" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:12:23.433" UserId="122" Text="The general list of features you should consider has been pretty well covered by others, I will tackle this from a slightly different angle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just how important is the camera to you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it more or less important than the phone features, or the phone OS for example? There are options that prioritize the camera over the phone, like the [Samsung Galaxy S4 Zoom][1].  It is more of a camera that happens to be a phone than a phone that comes with a camera.  The zoom gives you 10x optical zoom and a friend of mine that attended conferences a lot and blogged absolutely loved it.  Personally, I found it a little too bulky and I would prioritize other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If budget is no concern, but you don't want a dedicated camera, you can have your normal phone camera for most things, and then get a QX100 or similar ([QX Series][2]) from Sony that gives you a Carl Zeiss lens and separate sensor independent from your phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you get clever attempts to make digital zoom not suck, like the [Lumia 1020][3], which gives you a 2.7x zoom equivalent at 5 megapixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/global/microsite/galaxycamera/s4zoom/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sony.net/Products/di/en-gb/products/ec8t/specifications.html?contentsTop=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/mobile/phone/lumia1020/specifications/#head_camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="120" RevisionGUID="cb9907d6-b1fd-4e05-93fb-7663b78e52bf" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:26:43.250" UserId="122" Comment="added 424 characters in body" Text="The general list of features you should consider has been pretty well covered by others, I will tackle this from a slightly different angle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just how important is the camera to you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it more or less important than the phone features, or the phone OS for example? There are options that prioritize the camera over the phone, like the [Samsung Galaxy S4 Zoom][1].  It is more of a camera that happens to be a phone than a phone that comes with a camera.  The zoom gives you 10x optical zoom and a friend of mine that attended conferences a lot and blogged absolutely loved it.  Personally, I found it a little too bulky and I would prioritize other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If budget is no concern, but you don't want a dedicated camera, you can have your normal phone camera for most things, and then get a QX100 or similar ([QX Series][2]) from Sony that gives you a Carl Zeiss lens and separate sensor independent from your phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you get clever attempts to make digital zoom not suck, like the [Lumia 1020][3], which gives you a 2.7x zoom equivalent at 5 megapixels.  For that though, you have to be OK with Windows OS versus Android or iOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I am loathe to point you at something that is not available at the time of writing (but it is expected within the next month or so), but the [Asus Zenfone Zoom][4] seems like it may hit a sweetspot - 3x optical zoom, still slim, Image Stabilisation support, Android OS, and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/global/microsite/galaxycamera/s4zoom/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sony.net/Products/di/en-gb/products/ec8t/specifications.html?contentsTop=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/mobile/phone/lumia1020/specifications/#head_camera&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Phone/ZenFone-Zoom-ZX551ML/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="121" RevisionGUID="37956287-f578-4085-ad05-c0834b627b97" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:38:22.223" UserId="122" Text="Although the 3DS states 4.6V as an input voltage, it will accept 5V and so you can simply buy a USB charger cable (like [this one][1]) and then you can use your laptop, desktop, or any of the myriad USB wall/car chargers that you can pick up cheaply (or like many, already have from your phone/tablet) that will work with 110/220V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOC4HBS?psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="113" RevisionGUID="430ce517-7b6e-46e0-b032-ad1d4d5b7fed" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:04:09.157" UserId="122" Comment="Fixes links to be inline" Text="First, you should figure out what your actual power consumption is. A 600W PSU only draws 600W if the hardware needs it. You can get a Kill-A-Watt or similar monitor in the $15 USD range. You can also get a decent ballpark number from online calculators [1], [2], [3]. Don't forget to include your monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The UPS you linked only supplies 300W. It gives 10 minutes as the backup time, and I'm going to have to assume that's at full (300W) power draw, as I don't see any other stats on the battery. So, no, it probably won't fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could take a look at the [APC][4] or [CyberPower][5] UPS selectors to get an idea of what would fit your needs and the price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator  &#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com  &#xD;&#xA;[3]: http://powersupplycalculator.net  &#xD;&#xA;[4]: http://www.apc.com/tools/ups_selector&#xD;&#xA;[5]: http://cyberpower.advizia.com/CyberPower/v45/?l=Cyberpower_UPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="392" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="113" RevisionGUID="430ce517-7b6e-46e0-b032-ad1d4d5b7fed" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:04:09.157" Comment="Proposed by 122 approved by 132 edit id of 31" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="121" RevisionGUID="9ef776a3-15d0-47d4-9f8d-0b45ff85e0b5" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:04:43.880" UserId="122" Comment="added 108 characters in body" Text="As an alternative to a separate voltage converter (which for such a small device it probably overkill), although the 3DS states 4.6V as an input voltage, it will accept 5V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hence, you can simply buy a USB charger cable (like [this one][1]) and then you can use your laptop, desktop, or any of the myriad USB wall/car chargers that you can pick up cheaply (or like many, already have from your phone/tablet) that will work with 110/220V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOC4HBS?psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="118" RevisionGUID="67285bf9-d6e8-486f-80c9-b9b681e009b8" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:10:01.453" UserId="122" Comment="added 210 characters in body" Text="I have had this need myself (though not to cover an acre) and I eventually got tired of the horrendously poor capabilities offered by ISP devices.  Now, rather than using the WiFi settings of those devices, I turn WiFi off completely on the ISP device and use a separate router.  Once you have configured your own router to your liking, it is completely plug &amp; play because it is completely independent of the ISP router.  I have kept the same set up through fibre, cable, DSL and even a move to a different country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with the venerable [Linksys WRT-54G][1] (that will show you how long ago this was - I loved that router), and that meant that I discovered the fantastic [DD-WRT][2] firmware.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since then, DD-WRT compatibility has been my number one requirement when upgrading to the latest tech.  First, I went for the Linksys [WRT-600N][3], added a [Buffalo N600][4] as an extender (which comes with DD-WRT as stock firmware) and now use a Netgear [Nighthawk R7000][5] as my primary router with the older Linksys as my range extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's worth noting: you don't have to specifically buy an extender, any router with decent firmware can be configured to function as an extender while still giving you the option to use it as an AP later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of actual recommendations, the aforementioned Nighthawk is pricey but has been excellent for me so far. It has plenty of horsepower, USB 3.0 support and more.  Netgear also has a range [extender model][6] that I have not used personally but have heard good things about from friends.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus, I personally think it looks cool :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nighthawk R7000][7]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To cover larger areas, you can also replace the antennae on many routers (Nighthawk included) with larger, extendable, high gain antennae so that you can mount them away from the router and get far better coverage. If you are on a budget I once used a colander as a [make-shift directional antenna][8] to better enable line of sight connectivity to another router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other note: if you have a router with separately configurable 2.4 and 5Ghz interfaces then you can restrict the lower range, lower speed legacy devices (b, g) to the 2.4Ghz spectrum only and take full advantage of the 5Ghz goodness and better range offered by N and AC on the more modern devices.  Again, this is something I have done very successfully with DD-WRT on the Linksys and the Netgear models - I have one network with a `-g` postfix using the 2.4 network (actually N in mixed mode) and one with `-n` (which is AC, N only), both with the same password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linksys_WRT54G_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/WRT600N&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.buffalotech.com/products/wireless/dd-wrt-1/airstation-highpower-n600-open-source-dd-wrt-wireless-router&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-range-extenders/EX7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbHm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2QlbH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://lifehacker.com/build-a-directional-wi-fi-antenna-from-kitchen-gear-and-1686173362" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="52" RevisionGUID="c258534d-a3f8-4b21-8bf2-d485bb6bfcb9" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:13:42.133" UserId="122" Comment="Added Fractal Design linkage" Text="There are many many more options if you build your own system, and you can then be more flexible in terms of the components and the machine that you end up with.  For example: are you looking to max out the graphics card? do you want to be able to upgrade said card relatively easily in a year? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other piece of advice is to not get too hung up on definitions.  The HTPC cases are going to be more like what you are looking for in terms of looks and are perfectly capable of being gaming rigs.  Take a look at the [Silverstone][1] cases as an example, and this one in particular for a fit in a living room:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lascala 16][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might think that one is too big, after all it fits a standard ATX case, in which case you can check out the slim models etc.  However, more space makes it easier to cool quietly and it looks just like an amp you might see as part of a normal home theater set up.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone are not the only game in town either, [Streacom][3], [Origen AE][4], [Lian Li][5], [Fractal Design][6] have some amazing looking cases and more mainstream players like Corsair ([the Bulldog][7] is coming soon as of writing this) have options on the way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of pre-built systems places like [QuietPC][8] have been offering excellent (and quiet, of course) [options][9] that would certainly fit in your living room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to whether to stack your components, I would always recommend an air gap and no direct contact - even though the heat will generally exhaust out the back a lot of the small form factor units are going to radiate heat from the case directly.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have cooked a wireless router while sitting on top of a PC and had overheating problems with an Apple TV for similar reasons.  If you must stack, then always try to have the hottest component at the top.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.silverstonetek.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f6LHw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.streacom.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.origenae.co.kr/en/index.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/htpc-chassis/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.corsair.com/en/landing/bulldog&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.quietpc.com&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.quietpc.com/sys-lora" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="121" RevisionGUID="813885c5-754a-48af-a8b9-59ccd1f9838a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:14:51.707" UserId="122" Comment="edited body" Text="As an alternative to a separate voltage converter (which for such a small device is probably overkill), although the 3DS states 4.6V as an input voltage, it will accept 5V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hence, you can simply buy a USB charger cable (like [this one][1]) and then you can use your laptop, desktop, or any of the myriad USB wall/car chargers that you can pick up cheaply (or like many, already have from your phone/tablet) that will work with 110/220V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOC4HBS?psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="82730ea3-7dda-4380-80e9-83c862d6b31d" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:20:48.503" UserId="229" Text="What should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into Samsung EVO and PRO editions, but I was also wanting to see some other options and possibly a comparison of the hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="82730ea3-7dda-4380-80e9-83c862d6b31d" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:20:48.503" UserId="229" Text="1TB or more HDD for Playstation 4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="82730ea3-7dda-4380-80e9-83c862d6b31d" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:20:48.503" UserId="229" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;playstation&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;playstation-4&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="ffbdb309-06d6-47c6-b603-aac2ac65d250" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:33:55.517" UserId="229" Comment="Added more description" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SDD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into Samsung 850 EVO and PRO SDDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SDD on my personal gaming computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="abe9447d-8bf9-45af-aaef-c14f12d05363" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:41:02.363" UserId="229" Comment="Added more description" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SDD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into Samsung 850 EVO and PRO SDDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SDD on my personal gaming computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SDD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="403" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="78959c5a-663e-4d59-843f-3d7bb47c5a55" CreationDate="2015-09-10T19:01:50.073" UserId="229" Comment="added links" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SDD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into [Samsung 850 EVO](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U) and [PRO](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B00OAJ412U) SDDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SDD on my personal gaming computer. These are a little out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SDD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="404" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="479e14dd-3962-43c1-bc32-fad6be5a2d6e" CreationDate="2015-09-10T19:08:54.313" UserId="229" Comment="updated question" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SDD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into [Samsung 850 EVO](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U) and [PRO](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B00OAJ412U) SDDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SDD on my personal gaming computer. These are a little out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SDD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;I am realized that SDDs are a bit out of my price range for 1TB. So I am going ahead and check out some 2.5&quot; HDDs. Will update with more info on what I am looking into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="402fc56b-3146-4dc6-ad3d-5edd2f99442c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T19:58:35.540" UserId="229" Comment="edit" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SSD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into [Samsung 850 EVO](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U) and [PRO](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B00OAJ412U) SDDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SSD on my personal gaming computer. These are a little out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SSD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;I am realized that SSDs are a bit out of my price range for 1TB. So I am going ahead and check out some 2.5&quot; HDDs. Will update with more info on what I am looking into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Side note:&lt;/b&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;I will keep editing this question until it looks great, but I just want to get this question out there so someone can answer it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="124" RevisionGUID="9fbec530-073e-4350-91a2-9ab8e21e3d27" CreationDate="2015-09-10T20:03:42.397" UserId="8" Text="It depends heavily on what you're looking for in the drive; SSDs are faster but ultimately less reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSDs work using electronic circuits and NAND (or NOR) gates to store data. Traditional HDDs use magnetic platters. This grants SSDs faster performance, since they don't have to spin up the platter and seek to the disk location requested by the OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you're looking for long-term reliability, HDDs win out. As I explain in [this answer][1], HDDs are less prone to accidental damage and data loss - if you drop it *while* it's processing, there's a risk you'll lose data, but if it's idle then the head is secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For an Xbox (or any gaming console, for that matter), I recommend using an SSD. You don't really need long-term storage (the next console'll come out soon enough), and the SSD will provide *much* quicker save/load times, which is desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The major disadvantage of an SSD is the price, but (IMO) the quicker responses they give you makes it a worthwhile investment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9/whats-the-best-type-of-hard-drive-for-lifetime-data-storage/12#12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="125" RevisionGUID="9f717f74-f21c-4136-b1d7-55cf45ce2be1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T20:52:21.193" UserId="155" Text="The [AvertX 30X HD](http://www.avertx.com/30x-hd-ptz-speed-dome-indoor-outdoor-ip-camera/) provides pretty much everything you're looking for, but it only covers ~300m. It's very hard to find an IP camera that can cover 500 or more meters. You'll really have to dig around for that.&#xA;&#xA;I'll update this as I find more options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="126" RevisionGUID="a6d25f13-63e8-4e5d-a605-93d79664bd87" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:07:31.987" UserId="1" Text="I'd like to invest in a new keyboard - I've been typing on a MacBook Pro keyboard forever and, while I love it, it's time for something new and slightly more ergonomic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA; - Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA; - Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA; - Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when travelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard good things about the [CODE keyboards](https://codekeyboards.com/) - does anyone have any experience with them? Are there other keyboards that might work well for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="409" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="126" RevisionGUID="a6d25f13-63e8-4e5d-a605-93d79664bd87" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:07:31.987" UserId="1" Text="Keyboard for programmers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="410" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="126" RevisionGUID="a6d25f13-63e8-4e5d-a605-93d79664bd87" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:07:31.987" UserId="1" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="411" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="1eb91f9a-4f61-4a7c-80f1-2ccd582ad3f3" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:14:17.867" UserId="61" Comment="Added GPU tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;gpu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="412" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="1eb91f9a-4f61-4a7c-80f1-2ccd582ad3f3" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:14:17.867" Comment="Proposed by 61 approved by 84 edit id of 34" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="127" RevisionGUID="44626f2b-a053-449f-b618-3a65caa9c5eb" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:15:40.297" UserId="164" Text="SSDs, at least for the moment, are very expensive for the mass storage of games, and only really decrease load times on levels. In this sense, an SSD is not a valid option for a game console at the present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, SSDs have some very nice things about them- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They are MUCH more reliable than Hard Drives, as they have no moving parts&#xD;&#xA; - They provide over 200% of the data transfer speeds offered by hard drives, though due to the (kinda terrible) CPU of a console you may not get the full benefit of these transfer speeds.&#xD;&#xA; - Due to the fact that they are much more reliable, they are much more useful for RAID arrays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, at the present moment, you should just go for an HDD for the console.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best 2.5 inch hard drive for the money at the moment [is this one][1]. For ~$100 you get a decent performing 2tb HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external 2.5 or 3.5 inch hard drive [like this one][2] will also serve your needs for a little bit less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441919417&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2.5%20inch%20hard%20drive&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Portable-External-STEA2000400/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441926792&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2tb%20external%20hard%20drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="414" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="0ee4c1e1-74a7-4106-9c7d-2fad9fa6bd14" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:18:11.773" UserId="229" Comment="trimmed description" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking into when shopping for a HDD for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SSD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into [Samsung 850 EVO](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U) and [PRO](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B00OAJ412U) SSDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SSD on my personal gaming computer. These are a little out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SSD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;I am realized that SSDs are a bit out of my price range for 1TB. So I am going ahead and check out some 2.5&quot; HDDs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="128" RevisionGUID="deb68c52-721e-400c-a9ce-30ae29e07ac2" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:18:53.967" UserId="8" Text="CODE keyboards are, indeed, some of the best I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run the [CODE 104 MX Blue][1], and I've loved it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It doesn't slip (rubberized feet, and good weight).&#xD;&#xA;- $145 (incidentally, all the CODE keyboards are well within your budget)&#xD;&#xA;- Nice and clicky like a mechanical should be - but the &quot;hail on a tin roof&quot; is dampened so you don't get constant rattling&#xD;&#xA;- There's a [version of it without a numpad][2]&#xD;&#xA;- It *does* have the Windows key not a command key - but you can disable the Windows logo key or swap it to function as a command key&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit (adjustable and toggleable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use it with a Windows laptop, so I can't guarantee it works on a Mac - but I'd imagine it does. Also, it comes by default as wired USB - this is convertible to a PS/2 connection, but I don't believe it's Bluetooth-enabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-104-key-mechanical-keyboard-777.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-475.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="d89a2094-882c-4978-b6e9-bea1ddc5312c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:28:51.630" UserId="54" Text="Due to the fact that TrueCrypt is [&quot;not secure&quot;][1] I've been looking for some other way to encrypt the data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WARNING: Using TrueCrypt is not secure as it may contain unfixed security issues&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://truecrypt.sourceforge.net/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you provide some information about pros &amp; cons connected with hardware-based encryption? What if firmware is controlled by a malicious third-party? I'll be glad if could recommend some SSD which covers the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. There is no problem with BIOS compatibility&#xD;&#xA; 2. The quality of the encryption is similar to the TrueCrypt&#xD;&#xA; 3. Firmware of the drive haven't been compromised&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="417" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="d89a2094-882c-4978-b6e9-bea1ddc5312c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:28:51.630" UserId="54" Text="Is it worth to buy SSD with hardware-based full disk encryption?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="418" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="d89a2094-882c-4978-b6e9-bea1ddc5312c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:28:51.630" UserId="54" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;hardware-based&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="126" RevisionGUID="248f963a-545d-48c0-9c08-c50da2f72384" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:31:14.020" UserId="1" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="I'd like to invest in a new keyboard - I've been typing on a MacBook Pro keyboard forever and, while I love it, it's time for something new and slightly more ergonomic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA; - Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA; - Format should be US/QWERTY. Bonus points if I can rip the keycaps off and turn it onto Dvorak, if I ever get the ambition up to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA; - Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA; - Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when travelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard good things about the [CODE keyboards](https://codekeyboards.com/) - does anyone have any experience with them? Are there other keyboards that might work well for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="128" RevisionGUID="19913171-4e3c-4575-aa29-bc27c2671f7a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:31:23.593" UserId="8" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="CODE keyboards are, indeed, some of the best I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run the [CODE 104 MX Blue][1], and I've loved it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It doesn't slip (rubberized feet, and good weight).&#xD;&#xA;- $145 (incidentally, all the CODE keyboards are well within your budget)&#xD;&#xA;- Nice and clicky like a mechanical should be - but the &quot;hail on a tin roof&quot; is dampened so you don't get constant rattling&#xD;&#xA;- There's a [version of it without a numpad][2]&#xD;&#xA;- It *does* have the Windows key not a command key - but you can disable the Windows logo key or swap it to function as a command key&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit (adjustable and toggleable)&#xD;&#xA;- You can toggle between QWERTY, Dvorak, and a couple of other layouts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use it with a Windows laptop, so I can't guarantee it works on a Mac - but I'd imagine it does. Also, it comes by default as wired USB - this is convertible to a PS/2 connection, but I don't believe it's Bluetooth-enabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-104-key-mechanical-keyboard-777.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-475.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="127" RevisionGUID="31583523-350a-42d2-8230-baaa8fc049b3" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:32:12.667" UserId="164" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="SSDs, at least for the moment, are very expensive for the mass storage of games, and only really decrease load times on levels. In this sense, an SSD is not a valid option for a game console at the present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, SSDs have some very nice things about them- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They are&#xD;&#xA; more reliable than Hard Drives, as they have no moving parts&#xD;&#xA; - They provide over 100% of the data transfer speeds offered by hard drives, though due to the (kinda terrible) CPU of a console you may not get the full benefit of these transfer speeds.&#xD;&#xA; - Due to the fact that they are much more reliable, they are much more useful for RAID arrays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, at the present moment, you should just go for an HDD for the console.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best 2.5 inch hard drive for the money at the moment [is this one][1]. For ~$100 you get a decent performing 2tb HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external 2.5 or 3.5 inch hard drive [like this one][2] will also serve your needs for a little bit less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441919417&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2.5%20inch%20hard%20drive&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Portable-External-STEA2000400/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441926792&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2tb%20external%20hard%20drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="130" RevisionGUID="38ebb33a-6a0a-4d1d-8fcb-3da66a9be731" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:39:05.430" UserId="6" Text="I have been using this keyboard for several years (I bought two, one for home and one for work): [Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard](http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Ergonomic-Keyboard-Business-5KV-00001/dp/B00CYX26BC/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It works fine with my Macbook pros (I have used 2010 and 2015 with it) as well as Windows. &#xD;&#xA;- There are pads which don't slip (rubber feet)&#xD;&#xA;- $70 or so on Amazon currently&#xD;&#xA;- US/QWERTY setup, with no numberpad (which adds a huge amount of ergo experience, you save a lot of arm movement when you use your mouse)&#xD;&#xA;- It's clicklet key, which means it is pretty quiet (similar to my Macbook Pros)&#xD;&#xA;- No number pad attached (it has a detached one, which is nice the few times you need one)&#xD;&#xA;- Has a single small usb receiver (just 1 for both numberpad/keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;- Batteries last quite some time in the keyboard, the numberpad is less so but I never use it so I don't bother replacing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I have looked in the past few years it is the only non-wired, ergonomic keyboard without a number pad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only disadvantage is it's usb." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="426" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="76" RevisionGUID="e97906c9-4421-480c-8703-97c09d4a8d39" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:13:07.520" UserId="1" Comment="0f -&gt; of. And six chars." Text="My laptop runs AutoCAD and various Autodesk drafting/modeling programs. I'd like to buy a second monitor to help me work with multiple files/drawings at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What second monitor can I buy that...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - is designed specifically for use as a second monitor,&#xD;&#xA; - has a diagonal of about 16&quot; (maximum of 20&quot;!),&#xD;&#xA; - is relatively portable (this will likely be used with a laptop), and&#xD;&#xA; - is under $150?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="427" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="76" RevisionGUID="e97906c9-4421-480c-8703-97c09d4a8d39" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:13:07.520" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 150 edit id of 35" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="429" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="132" RevisionGUID="98e186c5-4bb9-4ebb-99a9-caa1283f767b" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:19:10.147" UserId="60" Text="I have looked for other HDD that fit your requirements, and the one you [linked](http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_y) to in your comments is the best that I have found. Its capacity is 2TB, it is a standard size, so it will fit inside your PS4, and everywhere I have looked, people have stated that it is a reliable drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The downside to this drive is its speed. White it uses the SATA 6.0 Gbps interface, I doubt you will see that in your use. Ideally, you would want the RPM to be around 7200, but since this is such a high density drive, you should see the same, if not better, performance than the stock HDD that came with your console." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="133" RevisionGUID="d8aad223-31f2-4b4f-aa03-a07b610e6a2a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:57:16.517" UserId="126" Text="In the event of a catastrophe, it's always good to have a backup of your data. I'm looking for a good hardware solution (i.e. not a cloud or other online-type backup—a physical backup that I can keep with me) that's not too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have approximately 12GB of data that I'd like to keep backed up (probably ~20–30GB max). I'd like to make backups no less often than about once every 10 days or so, and I don't really care about keeping 3- to 4-month old backups around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would have the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Very reliable (obviously, it's a backup); close to 0% failure rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Should last for at least 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not too expensive. Cheaper is better, and the absolute maximum for me is probably somewhere in the ~$100 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB of storage space at minimum. (Of course, more can't hurt, but this doesn't matter as much as the other factors above.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Should be usable with my laptop (so ideally, over USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the best backup drive / other backup solution I can get with these criteria? Since I'm pretty clueless about these types of things (which is why I've decided I should probably start making backups soon, as in yesterday), what other thing should I be looking for in a backup drive as well?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="432" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="133" RevisionGUID="d8aad223-31f2-4b4f-aa03-a07b610e6a2a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:57:16.517" UserId="126" Text="What's the cheapest reliable method of backing up my data?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="433" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="133" RevisionGUID="d8aad223-31f2-4b4f-aa03-a07b610e6a2a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:57:16.517" UserId="126" Text="&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="434" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="134" RevisionGUID="18bc0801-9091-47d7-9739-dc2197e2deb0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:07:07.863" UserId="150" Text="I'd like to buy a graphics tablet (also known as a drawing tablet, graphics pad, etc. - see [here](http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/aboutgraphics/a/graphicstablets.htm) for some more information). I'm interested in using it for input for CAD programs, some of which use freehand sketching for input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A price under $150&#xD;&#xA; - A low footprint-to-input ratio (for example, a 10-inch diagonal input space on a 15-inch diagonal tablet would be quite wasteful)&#xD;&#xA; - A diagonal of roughly 6&quot;-9&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless connection (e.g. Bluetooth capability).&#xD;&#xA; - A pen with an eraser&#xD;&#xA; - A pressure sensitivity of around 1024&#xD;&#xA; - An overlay for tracing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't need or want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An extra mouse, cordless or not, for the tablet&#xD;&#xA; - A screen (working with an iPad is not what I'd like)&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection (although this might be nice, as backup)&#xD;&#xA; - The same aspect ratio as the computer it will be used with (software can take care of this)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="435" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="134" RevisionGUID="18bc0801-9091-47d7-9739-dc2197e2deb0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:07:07.863" UserId="150" Text="A cheap, large-ish graphics tablet with a low footprint-to-input ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="436" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="134" RevisionGUID="18bc0801-9091-47d7-9739-dc2197e2deb0" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:07:07.863" UserId="150" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="134" RevisionGUID="41fc3220-776e-4208-8aa7-646f547f305c" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:09:09.687" UserId="150" Comment="added 31 characters in body; added 33 characters in body" Text="I'd like to buy a graphics tablet (also known as a drawing tablet, graphics pad, etc. - see [here](http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/aboutgraphics/a/graphicstablets.htm) for some more information). I'm interested in using it for input for CAD programs, some of which use freehand sketching for input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria (from most to least important):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A price under $150&#xD;&#xA; - A low footprint-to-input ratio (for example, a 10-inch diagonal input space on a 15-inch diagonal tablet would be quite wasteful)&#xD;&#xA; - A diagonal of roughly 6&quot;-9&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless connection (e.g. Bluetooth capability).&#xD;&#xA; - A pen with an eraser&#xD;&#xA; - A pressure sensitivity of around 1024&#xD;&#xA; - An overlay for tracing&#xD;&#xA; - Compatibility with Windows 7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't need or want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An extra mouse, cordless or not, for the tablet&#xD;&#xA; - A screen (working with an iPad is not what I'd like)&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection (although this might be nice, as backup)&#xD;&#xA; - The same aspect ratio as the computer it will be used with (software can take care of this)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="438" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="133" RevisionGUID="15bd3e28-3bd3-4397-a673-f6157bc1ce1b" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:16:56.773" UserId="150" Comment="Added &quot;data-storage&quot; tag." Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="439" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="133" RevisionGUID="15bd3e28-3bd3-4397-a673-f6157bc1ce1b" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:16:56.773" Comment="Proposed by 150 approved by 126 edit id of 36" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="135" RevisionGUID="fc1ed5f0-93b3-4068-aa25-7fc299bfb243" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:37:53.543" UserId="1" Text="I've had good luck with Seagate Barracuda drives. You can get a 1TB bare drive for [$50 on Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW), or go [all the way up to 5TB](http://amzn.com/B013JPL0KG):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, get yourself an external drive mount. I've been using a [Thermaltake BLACX N0028USU](http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BLACX-N0028USU-Docking-Station/dp/B005PWV68S/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441927957&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=BlacX+N0028USU) ($40, but [a cheaper one](http://amzn.com/B00IKAQ538) should be just fine):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'll take both 2.5&quot; and 3.5&quot; drives, and it's really nice on its own to have around - you can take a hard drive out of a dead computer and use it to get the data off the drive, for example. It's also nice and heavy and doesn't float around your desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this combination in mind, your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Very reliable (obviously, it's a backup); close to 0% failure rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well... 0%? Probably not. But mine hasn't broken yet...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should last for at least 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had mine for 6.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Not too expensive. Cheaper is better, and the absolute maximum for me is probably somewhere in the ~$100 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're in that range, and now you have the initial investment in the mount out of the way - hard drives to put in it are only going to get cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1TB of storage space at minimum. (Of course, more can't hurt, but this doesn't matter as much as the other factors above.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should be usable with my laptop (so ideally, over USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That BlacX one has a USB connection on it, can't speak for others (although USB is fairly universal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main ding against this setup is that it isn't terribly portable, although I've taken it on vacations before wrapped in clothes (the hard drives come with an ESD-resistant case, use it!) with no ill effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/lV3qpm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2KXLA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="136" RevisionGUID="211cd55c-e757-4092-afc4-b880ffc09fbb" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:38:33.230" UserId="155" Text="For super portable backups, I always recommend a [Western Digital Passport](http://www.amazon.com/Passport-Ultra-Portable-External-WDBGPU0010BBL-NESN/dp/B00W8XY0SU/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441927874&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=wd+passport). They come in a few different capacities and colors and you can choose an optional &quot;grip&quot; to make it quieter when it's laying on a hard surface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one little setback with these is they are entirely USB-powered, which is great, but that means transfers won't be as fast as an external HDD with its own power source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still though, the Passport is very, very small and light. A fantastic buy for large backups with portability in mind." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="137" RevisionGUID="ce9d83de-cc59-43b1-be01-869e933e763a" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:45:56.843" UserId="241" Text="Ballparking from your backup plan (12 GB working set, weekly backups, retention of three months), and assuming full backups rather than incremental backups, you need about 150 GB of storage, rather than the 1 TB you specify.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this scale, you're looking for an external USB hard drive or solid-state drive.  None of these is exceptionally reliable (five-year failure rates vary between 1% and 100%, depending on brand, batch, and luck), so standard practice is to use two of them.  For protection against bad batches, I'd recommend getting different brands for your two drives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="444" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="137" RevisionGUID="ebbd5633-b5f3-47f2-94f7-762c8358d25f" CreationDate="2015-09-10T23:52:54.457" UserId="241" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="Ballparking from your backup plan (12 GB working set, weekly backups, retention of three months), and assuming full backups rather than incremental backups, you need about 150 GB of storage, rather than the 1 TB you specify.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this scale, you're looking for an external USB hard drive or solid-state drive.  None of these is exceptionally reliable (five-year failure rates vary between 1% and 100%, depending on brand, batch, and luck), so standard practice is to use two of them.  For protection against bad batches, I'd recommend getting different brands for your two drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not recommending any particular brand, simply because predicting which ones are reliable or not is a fool's errand.  Avoid drives with special &quot;one-touch backup&quot; or similar features (they're just another possible point of failure).  Select two ordinary drives based on whatever minor criteria are important to you, such as color, physical size, presence (or absence) of an external power cord, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="445" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="134" RevisionGUID="fe0efbec-2ded-4223-92bf-bd841f59190f" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:06:55.023" UserId="150" Comment="edited title" Text="A cheap, large graphics tablet with a low footprint-to-input ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="135" RevisionGUID="f67614f0-95f0-4a5d-9b3e-3399f69dcd11" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:07:16.297" UserId="1" Comment="added 185 characters in body" Text="I've had good luck with Seagate Barracuda drives. You can get a 1TB bare drive for [$50 on Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW), or go [all the way up to 5TB](http://amzn.com/B013JPL0KG):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note** that there are reports that Barracuda drives could be unreliable. In that case, take whatever hard drive (or SSD) brand you like (some *are* better than others in general).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, get yourself an external drive mount. I've been using a [Thermaltake BLACX N0028USU](http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BLACX-N0028USU-Docking-Station/dp/B005PWV68S/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441927957&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=BlacX+N0028USU) ($40, but [a cheaper one](http://amzn.com/B00IKAQ538) should be just fine):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'll take both 2.5&quot; and 3.5&quot; drives, and it's really nice on its own to have around - you can take a hard drive out of a dead computer and use it to get the data off the drive, for example. It's also nice and heavy and doesn't float around your desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this combination in mind, your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Very reliable (obviously, it's a backup); close to 0% failure rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well... 0%? Probably not. But mine hasn't broken yet...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should last for at least 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had mine for 6.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Not too expensive. Cheaper is better, and the absolute maximum for me is probably somewhere in the ~$100 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're in that range, and now you have the initial investment in the mount out of the way - hard drives to put in it are only going to get cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1TB of storage space at minimum. (Of course, more can't hurt, but this doesn't matter as much as the other factors above.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should be usable with my laptop (so ideally, over USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That BlacX one has a USB connection on it, can't speak for others (although USB is fairly universal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main ding against this setup is that it isn't terribly portable, although I've taken it on vacations before wrapped in clothes (the hard drives come with an ESD-resistant case, use it!) with no ill effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/lV3qpm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2KXLA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="138" RevisionGUID="8b0ba786-c5e7-4399-be93-a2bb78b914a3" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:21:46.780" UserId="45" Text="Whether the firmware has been compromised is a valid concern — [it happens](http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/79747/besides-mbr-bios-is-it-possible-for-a-rootkit-to-stay-persistant-after-a-form/79762#79762) ([it's been done for show](http://spritesmods.com/?art=hddhack), and it's rather rare but it has been found in the wild).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a bigger concern is whether the firmware has been programmed correctly. [Many SSD firmwares don't implement secure erase properly](http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/41676/ata-security-erase-on-ssd/41678#41678). Should you trust them to implement crypto properly? I haven't seen a reliable study on the topic, but I've heard (private rumors in some security communities) that some “self-encrypting drives” are actually mere password-protected drives, with no encryption if you just bypass the controller. As a consumer, there's absolutely no way to know whether a particular device does it right¹.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The upshot is that I wouldn't rely on the encryption capabilities of a storage device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much point in doing encryption on the drive itself rather than in the CPU anyway. This isn't the 1990s, most CPUs have plenty of spare cycles, of which encryption will only cost a little. Major operating systems come with native encryption: Bitlocker under Windows, dm-crypt under Linux, etc. If you have one of the cheaper editions of Windows that don't have full-disk encryption, or if you need an encrypted removable drive that's portable between operating systems, [use one of the TrueCrypt successors](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TrueCrypt#Alternatives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¹ &lt;sub&gt; Finding a way to attack a particular model can have a cost in the $10k–100k range, so it's not something you can do casually — but once the attack is found, carrying it out on a particular drive has an incremental cost that can be in the $10–100 range, or &amp;lt;$1 if it's a pure software attack on a buggy firmware. &lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="448" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="139" RevisionGUID="4774bcb4-6dcb-47e8-b6f8-c28059c463ce" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:26:57.927" UserId="45" Text="Don't bother with a power converter unless you have a lot of appliances that need 220V→110V conversion. The Nintendo charger is itself a converter from 220V or 110V depending on the model, to the 4.6V used by the console. Chaining converters wastes energy, in addition to requiring two devices when one will do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my country, you can get a 220V 3DS charger for about $5 ([example](http://www.amazon.fr/Eaxus-Alimentation-Chargeur-Secteur-Nintendo/dp/B00HB3TU0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441928871&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=chargeur+nintendo+3ds)). Or, for about the same price, you can get a USB cable that lets you charge the console from any USB power supply, so you can combine that cable with any USB charger or PC that you have lying around.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="140" RevisionGUID="240198bb-2c6c-419a-960c-68fe0b19c69c" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:48:22.887" UserId="24" Text="I am looking for a way to power on/off a 230V power connector from software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most ideal way would be if it could be controlled from linux, but anything could be ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="450" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="140" RevisionGUID="240198bb-2c6c-419a-960c-68fe0b19c69c" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:48:22.887" UserId="24" Text="Power on/off 230V power cable from software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="451" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="140" RevisionGUID="240198bb-2c6c-419a-960c-68fe0b19c69c" CreationDate="2015-09-11T00:48:22.887" UserId="24" Text="&lt;power&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="143" RevisionGUID="8e5d9525-a71f-4704-8bad-9d83012186d6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:12:20.777" UserId="65" Text="I've searched and searched and can only find one 2.5 inch HDD that is larger than 1TB (Western Digital has one model). 3.5 inch HDDs have kept growing to even 10TB, but 2.5 inch drives seem to have hit a brick wall.  Are there any 2.5 inch HDDs larger than 2TB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="143" RevisionGUID="8e5d9525-a71f-4704-8bad-9d83012186d6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:12:20.777" UserId="65" Text="&gt;2 TB 2.5 inch HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="143" RevisionGUID="8e5d9525-a71f-4704-8bad-9d83012186d6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:12:20.777" UserId="65" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="145" RevisionGUID="c3632dbd-5f1a-4ce8-b63f-7c677494fa64" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:17:50.690" UserId="45" Text="You need a relay, probably driven by USB. Examples: [Yocto-PowerRelay](http://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/usb-actuators/yocto-powerrelay), [Cleware USB switch](http://www.cleware-shop.de/USB-Switch-EN), [EnerGie EG-PM2](http://www.amazon.de/EnerGenie-EG-PM2-programmierbare-Steckdosenleiste-Schnittstelle/dp/B00ANXI3L2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_2/280-7383433-5316334?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0SEWTK87HHT4DSTBWG70&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) (found by a web search, I'm not endorsing these particular products or vendors).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lots of people use a Raspberry Pi or similar boards to control mains-powered appliances, so you'll find lots of discussions around this topic in their communities. You can build something cheaper if you do some of it yourself, but don't do that unless you're comfortable working with mains power — you could fry your hardware or worse, fry yourself. If you already have a RPi or Arduino in your system, you can get specialized peripherals for a bit cheaper, e.g. [SainSmart 8-Kanäle RelaisModul](http://www.amazon.de/SainSmart-8-Kan%C3%A4le-RelaisModul-Arduino-Module/dp/B005WR734M/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1H7QSZKT2SDGDGDD0XKK&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) or [PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) for Arduino (and see [this](http://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/235/controlling-mains-230v-supply-upto-5-10-amps-using-arudino) thread on Arduino SE), [Pi-Face Digital](http://shop.openlx.org.uk/) for RPi (and see [these](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/1633/how-can-one-control-ac-power-220v-with-a-raspberry-pi) [threads](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/604/can-i-switch-mains-devices-on-off) on Raspberry Pi.SE), etc. There's quite a bit of material around on using the PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) with either Arduino or [Raspberry Pi](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-13-power-control).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever product you use, take care not to exceed its maximum amperage.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="146" RevisionGUID="bde15dbb-9f94-4678-a3a7-1f45332ff5c4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:24:07.640" UserId="65" Text="Kasperd's answer is good, but there are some other critical things to look for:&#xA;&#xA;**Reliability**&#xA;Many routers have software that is so poor that it crashes, sometimes as often as every few days. Some routers are made poorly and the hardware fails after a few months or a year.  &#xA;&#xA;**Compatibility**&#xA;Some routers have compatibility issues with some devices.  &#xA;&#xA;Either of these can make your nice new router useless.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="ba7488e3-762b-46c4-85b7-a425a079e4a2" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:39:34.023" UserId="65" Text="I have a peripheral (and occasionally a home server) that hangs and I have to power cycle them to get them to respond again.  I know there are corporate-targeted power strips with the ability to turn outlets on/off over the Internet, but they are usually $150+ which is out of my price range for convenience at home.  Are there power strips for less than $40 that can be controlled over the Internet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="466" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="ba7488e3-762b-46c4-85b7-a425a079e4a2" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:39:34.023" UserId="65" Text="Reasonably Priced Remote Control (Internet) Power Outlet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="467" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="ba7488e3-762b-46c4-85b7-a425a079e4a2" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:39:34.023" UserId="65" Text="&lt;power-control&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="469" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="87" RevisionGUID="3446cf69-682d-4040-ba42-c199b565d6f6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:06:04.473" UserId="164" Comment="added 213 characters in body" Text="As long as you aren't trying to run a hair dryer off of it, [this][1] adapter should do the trick. It isn't grounded, which means it I would not expect it to do very intensive work, and some plugs may require you to fill the grounding peg hole to get a current. You should have some sense of supervision if you plan on drawing any more power from it. Though this adapter does have its problems, but it is quite lightweight and will get the job done for your purposes (and your 3ds).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yet another answer is to use a 5V USB charger to charge your 3ds, and that will do a fairly good job without the need for a converter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also just get a 220V 3ds charger/adapter, as they are very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Blackberry/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441848825&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=220%20to%20110v" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="149" RevisionGUID="2efa3d70-858f-4631-9ca9-344874002dcd" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:30:37.190" UserId="84" Text="When I researched digitizers Wacom was the clear solution.  I think they have a patent on their unpowered pen that gives them industry dominance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should get a Wacom Intuos Pen &amp; Touch Tablet.  To stay in your budget you would have to go with the Small, model #CTH480, which runs ~$80 and provides a 6.0&quot;x3.7&quot; active area on an 8.25&quot;x6.9&quot; tablet.  Next step up is the Medium, model #CTH680, which runs ~$180 and provides an 8.5&quot;x5.3&quot; active area on a 10.75&quot;x8.75&quot; tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both sizes come with a pen with eraser and 1024 levels of pressure sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless connection for either requires an extra $40 accessory kit (model #ACK40401).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're tracing you probably do need to pony up for the Medium size.  But I do graphic design with the Small and even though it sounds like a tiny working area the resolution is so high that I don't have any trouble working on an HD monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="473" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="36" RevisionGUID="05a4d549-1e35-42f1-ab4b-dd912306e4d4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:34:56.977" UserId="84" Comment="Removing antiquated &quot;digitizer&quot; tag" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="150" RevisionGUID="8bb33110-1efc-4d76-96d9-015cbf514040" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:35:54.773" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="151" RevisionGUID="2d6ca4b1-80ef-43d7-a695-1a815733d906" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:35:54.773" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="45f201bf-7410-4d24-9d81-421c519e0a74" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:26:26.007" UserId="65" Text="I have several brands of home security cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Logitech, TrendNet), but they all have issues with Windows 8 and later.  What home security cameras exist that work entirely without a computer or with the latest version of Windows.  I'm also not interested in cameras that require new wiring.  I'm looking for cameras that use either WiFi or Powerline adapters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="478" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="45f201bf-7410-4d24-9d81-421c519e0a74" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:26:26.007" UserId="65" Text="What good motion sensing home security cameras are there that work with with Windows 10 (or standalone) and have both iOS and Android apps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="479" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="45f201bf-7410-4d24-9d81-421c519e0a74" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:26:26.007" UserId="65" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="bb24e4a8-6c58-4327-b08f-126f01288dc4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:31:14.447" UserId="65" Text="I just upgraded to home gigabit internet, but my router can't handle it. What reliable routers exist that can actually handle full gigabit throughput?  I have most of my devices wired, so gigabit WiFi isn't a requirement, though that would be nice too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="481" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="bb24e4a8-6c58-4327-b08f-126f01288dc4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:31:14.447" UserId="65" Text="Home firewall/router with full gigabit throughput" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="482" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="bb24e4a8-6c58-4327-b08f-126f01288dc4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:31:14.447" UserId="65" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="be51a362-0af2-48b1-a4eb-4616ad67fd66" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:36:51.013" UserId="123" Text="I am developing an Android app and have a couple physical devices, however to maximize compatibility with user's potential devices I want to run virtual machines. Currently I have 8 GB's of RAM and usually run 5-10 chrome tabs at once along with Android Studio and one or two emulators. &#xA;&#xA;Usually when the emulators are running I notice a slight slowdown. Would there be any benefit to upgrading to 16 GB's of ram in my case?&#xA;&#xA;Also: the emulators each use 512 MB of ram - 2 GB depending on the situation. Is over 2 GB's practical for emulators or no?&#xA;&#xA;Other specs&#xA;Intel i5-4670k&#xA;120 GB SSD&#xA;1 TB HDD&#xA;8 GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="484" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="be51a362-0af2-48b1-a4eb-4616ad67fd66" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:36:51.013" UserId="123" Text="RAM recommendation for Android Development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="485" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="be51a362-0af2-48b1-a4eb-4616ad67fd66" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:36:51.013" UserId="123" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="155" RevisionGUID="9ab67a04-8eac-472d-8130-11c7970007b9" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:07:26.687" UserId="65" Text="I've currently got 4 monitors on my workstation, but I still want more desktop space.  Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?  What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?  Is it wireless?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="155" RevisionGUID="9ab67a04-8eac-472d-8130-11c7970007b9" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:07:26.687" UserId="65" Text="VR headset as huge resolution monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="155" RevisionGUID="9ab67a04-8eac-472d-8130-11c7970007b9" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:07:26.687" UserId="65" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;virtual-reality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="7f253fb5-7a05-483f-a21f-6f4d141482d7" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:14:13.273" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; formatting" Text="I have several brands of home security cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Logitech, TrendNet), but they all have issues with Windows 8 and later.  What home security cameras exist that work entirely without a computer or with the latest version of Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also not interested in cameras that require new wiring. I'm looking for cameras that use either WiFi or Powerline adapters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="491" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="7f253fb5-7a05-483f-a21f-6f4d141482d7" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:14:13.273" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; formatting" Text="Motion sensing home security cameras that work with Windows 10 (or standalone) and have both iOS and Android apps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="492" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="7f253fb5-7a05-483f-a21f-6f4d141482d7" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:14:13.273" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 65 edit id of 40" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="493" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="99f6d839-5061-40e0-a344-e164e2aadcb7" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:15:32.370" UserId="65" Comment="edited title" Text="Motion sensing home security cameras that work with Windows 10 (or standalone) and have both iOS and Android apps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="136" RevisionGUID="b7dd6b75-2fe6-44e5-af0e-936197b8f40e" CreationDate="2015-09-11T05:52:04.010" UserId="155" Comment="added picture" Text="For super portable backups, I always recommend a [Western Digital Passport](http://www.amazon.com/Passport-Ultra-Portable-External-WDBGPU0010BBL-NESN/dp/B00W8XY0SU/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441927874&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=wd+passport). They come in a few different capacities and colors and you can choose an optional &quot;grip&quot; to make it quieter when it's laying on a hard surface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one little setback with these is they are entirely USB-powered, which is great, but that means transfers won't be as fast as an external HDD with its own power source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still though, the Passport is very, very small and light. A fantastic buy for large backups with portability in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vUrJH.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="82a345e3-eb96-4a9e-b794-0ace45c1f630" CreationDate="2015-09-11T08:13:21.817" UserId="180" Text="&lt;sub&gt;This is an attempt to see the limits of the site.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For my work, we have to control a 50kW power-station and coordinate different components, inculding some safety-critical sensors, reactions, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering to use a [PLC][1] as a Master controller. We have about&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 30-50 digital I/O (with 10-15 special safety elements)&#xD;&#xA;- 10-20 analog I/O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The details are not yet completely clear. Nevertheless I was looking for a PLC solution for it, and I don't have prior experience with PLCs myself (but I do with MCU). At first, I looked into the [Wago 750/753 Series][2], which offer some modularity. But then, people often recommend the Siemens S7 PLCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This time, it is to build a prototype, but we might expect 5-40 products delivered if everything runs fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any experience with the Wago PLCs, how do they compare with the Siemens? And would you suggest an alternative?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_controller&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wago.us/products/components-for-automation/modular-io-system-ip-20-750753-series/overview/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="499" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="82a345e3-eb96-4a9e-b794-0ace45c1f630" CreationDate="2015-09-11T08:13:21.817" UserId="180" Text="Which PLC would be recommended for small-scale industrial control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="500" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="82a345e3-eb96-4a9e-b794-0ace45c1f630" CreationDate="2015-09-11T08:13:21.817" UserId="180" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="125" RevisionGUID="f7f2a77e-a630-4b5d-8466-98e02e69af21" CreationDate="2015-09-11T09:32:58.600" UserId="155" Comment="added another item" Text="1. The [AvertX 30X HD](http://www.avertx.com/30x-hd-ptz-speed-dome-indoor-outdoor-ip-camera/) provides pretty much everything you're looking for, but it only covers ~105m. This brand tends to not specify optical or digital zoom on their website which makes things difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The [3S N5012](http://www.3svision.com.tw/prod_info.php?pid=52&amp;tab=2) has a lot of very appealing features. Specifically, 94mm max focal length paired with 12x digital zoom can provide long view distances. This could reach close to 500m, but digital zoom severely affects video quality, so that's your call.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll update this as I find more options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="157" RevisionGUID="fc4b9e2b-aa0f-457c-91cf-367756b37895" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:11:58.027" UserId="248" Text="It's safe to say that upgrading to 12 GB's would be enough, but if you really want to be sure, take the 16 GB's step.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I use 6-7, sometimes 8. I have 16 GB's and can say it was money well spent." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="20b1cd00-6416-47e9-8093-af7c623e23fa" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:58:18.070" UserId="174" Comment="made the question more specific" Text="We develop cost effective hospital information systems for rural India which runs as a web application. To make the overall cost of ownership low, we use Ubuntu as the server and  client OS. To drive the cost further down, I would like to move away from entry level PCs as client devices to thin clients running Ubuntu (or other free Linux variants).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - With  popular browser (firefox or chrome) support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - standard Monitor with minimum 1280 X 720  pixel Resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 to 4 USB ports to connect any printer, keyboard, mice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supporting latest Ubuntu LTS version (Ubuntu 14.04)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No separate commercial software requirement. Free/Open Source software like Linux Terminal Server are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - One 10/100/1000 Mbps ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; What would be options I can look at ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="f9afa9f5-6e45-4e3a-967b-d82e570031b4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:10:17.700" UserId="65" Comment="added 116 characters in body; added 117 characters in body" Text="I have several brands of home security cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Logitech, TrendNet), but they all have issues with Windows 8 and later.  What home security cameras exist that work entirely without a computer or with the latest version of Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in cameras that require new wiring. I'm looking for cameras that use either WiFi or Powerline adapters.&#xA;&#xA;Resolution isn't a big concern, though HD would be nice. Price is more of a factor, as I'd like to stay under $50/each and no monthly fees.&#xA;&#xA;Apps to view the cameras are a must, the ability to remotely view past motion would be awesome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="505" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="3aa8ada9-2084-4be6-bf3f-4409d1895f1a" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:30:40.637" UserId="164" Comment="Added important information" Text="There are more parameters when comparing and choosing CPUs.  &#xD;&#xA;Also lets not forget that performance depends on what we do.  &#xD;&#xA;Lets bring list of parameters which can affect performance (sorted by importance, descending).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Performance:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU frequency - how many GHz. The most important parameter. The more, the better.&#xD;&#xA; - IPC - instructions per clock cycle. Another important perameter.  important parameter. Like GHz, the greater, the better. This measurement can often be hard to find, but is very important when comparing processors of the same frequency.&#xD;&#xA; - Core/Thread count - (another very important parameter) how many actual cores you have, and how many threads the cores have. For example,  i7 may have 4 cores and 8 threads, whereas Core 2 Duo has only 2 cores and 2 threads. That means you can run 8 (better 4) concurrent program threads on i7, compared to 2 on Core 2 Duo, which results in better  multitasking/multithreading. &#xD;&#xA; This is the main reason why i7 2.4GHz is more powerful than a 2.5/3GHz Core 2 Duo.&#xD;&#xA; - Bits - 32-bit, 64-bit. A high-performance application created for 64-bit  CPU may have better performance than 32-bit performance. Also it can limit maximal amount of RAM (depends on OS). For example, old Windows XP could see 4GB RAM when CPU was 32-bit. Today most CPUs are 64-bit and usually you will not feel RAM limit (unless you are running a powerful server).&#xD;&#xA; - Cache - a very fast but little memory placed near to CPU. Usually improves performance (if we omit cache-miss, but that's another theme)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other options to compare:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support of hardware - RAM type/size/frequency, for example, DDR4 2133MHz, 64GB.  &#xD;&#xA;Another important parameter can be PCI (Express) version and number of lanes (e.g. for connecting SSDs). The higher, the better. &#xD;&#xA; - Power consumption, [TDP][1] - watts consumed by CPU and produced heat. This is important especially for mobile devices, tablets and notebooks which have battery and don't have good cooling systems. Does not affect performance.&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in graphics - newer CPUs usually have better graphics than old ones and support more monitors. Of course that's not enough to run new high-performance games but is good for home/office usage and low-end gaming. But built-in graphics is not so important when you already have graphics card.&#xD;&#xA; - Other features - features like HyperThreading, Turbo Boost, VTx. Some of them may have good impact on performance, others may be useful for specific cases. Most of them don't increase performance on daily usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, you can use benchmarks to test CPUs, or see benchmark results in sites like [FutureMark][2], [PassMark CPU Benchmark][3], or use benchmarks such as [Cadalyst][4] for AutoCAD to determine performance of one software.&#xD;&#xA;(This is a better way if you don't know much about hardware.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cadalyst.com/benchmark-test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="506" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="3aa8ada9-2084-4be6-bf3f-4409d1895f1a" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:30:40.637" Comment="Proposed by 164 approved by 58 edit id of 33" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="507" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="6bbfd28e-aa4c-47d9-8372-2ae76d769aa5" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:32:54.363" UserId="58" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="There are more parameters when comparing and choosing CPUs.  &#xD;&#xA;Also lets not forget that performance depends on what we do.  &#xD;&#xA;Lets bring list of parameters which can affect performance (sorted by importance, descending).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Performance:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU frequency - how many GHz. The most important parameter. The more, the better.&#xD;&#xA; - Core/Thread count - (another very important parameter) how many actual cores you have, and how many threads the cores have. For example,  i7 may have 4 cores and 8 threads, whereas Core 2 Duo has only 2 cores and 2 threads. That means you can run 8 (better 4) concurrent program threads on i7, compared to 2 on Core 2 Duo, which results in better  multitasking/multithreading. &#xD;&#xA; This is the main reason why i7 2.4GHz is more powerful than a 2.5/3GHz Core 2 Duo.&#xD;&#xA; - IPC - instructions per clock cycle. Another important perameter. Like GHz, the greater, the better. This measurement can often be hard to find, but is very important when comparing processors of the same frequency. (by Firepower0701)&#xD;&#xA; - Bits - 32-bit, 64-bit. A high-performance application created for 64-bit  CPU may have better performance than 32-bit performance. Also it can limit maximal amount of RAM (depends on OS). For example, old Windows XP could see 4GB RAM when CPU was 32-bit. Today most CPUs are 64-bit and usually you will not feel RAM limit (unless you are running a powerful server).&#xD;&#xA; - Cache - a very fast but little memory placed near to CPU. Usually improves performance (if we omit cache-miss, but that's another theme)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other options to compare:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support of hardware - RAM type/size/frequency, for example, DDR4 2133MHz, 64GB.  &#xD;&#xA;Another important parameter can be PCI (Express) version and number of lanes (e.g. for connecting SSDs). The higher, the better. &#xD;&#xA; - Power consumption, [TDP][1] - watts consumed by CPU and produced heat. This is important especially for mobile devices, tablets and notebooks which have battery and don't have good cooling systems. Does not affect performance.&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in graphics - newer CPUs usually have better graphics than old ones and support more monitors. Of course that's not enough to run new high-performance games but is good for home/office usage and low-end gaming. But built-in graphics is not so important when you already have graphics card.&#xD;&#xA; - Other features - features like HyperThreading, Turbo Boost, VTx. Some of them may have good impact on performance, others may be useful for specific cases. Most of them don't increase performance on daily usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, you can use benchmarks to test CPUs, or see benchmark results in sites like [FutureMark][2], [PassMark CPU Benchmark][3], or use benchmarks such as [Cadalyst][4] for AutoCAD to determine performance of one software.&#xD;&#xA;(This is a better way if you don't know much about hardware.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cadalyst.com/benchmark-test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="3d150514-1062-4449-8bc9-51a3365ae672" CreationDate="2015-09-11T14:25:41.010" UserId="21" Text="Sure it would. Since you're running multiple processes and your main goal is to multitask better, it would really improve performance and smoothness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what you're currently using, 12 GB should suffice but it seems you're limiting yourself because of your 8 GB of ram so go ahead and get 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also if you're using Linux it would be better to [set your `swapness`](http://askubuntu.com/a/103916/325685) down to *zero*. If you're using Windows you can have a look on [how to control your ram and swap usage](http://superuser.com/q/237137/463961)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="d685dcf8-3a5e-42a7-85ad-1a27f98fcca0" CreationDate="2015-09-11T14:33:50.987" UserId="21" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="Sure it would. Since you're running multiple processes and your main goal is to multitask better, it would really improve performance and smoothness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what you're currently using, 12 GB should suffice but it seems you're limiting yourself because of your 8 GB of ram so go ahead and get 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also if you're using Linux it would be better to [set your `swapness`](http://askubuntu.com/a/103916/325685) down to *zero*. If you're using Windows you can have a look on [how to control your ram and swap usage](http://superuser.com/q/237137/463961). That way you can benefit more from your ram." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="512" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="4a9a9da6-ff14-4e8f-8016-dcc3f45f4575" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:14:43.687" UserId="21" Text="I've been searching for a good earphone for years but they always stop working after a few months. Sometimes their cables simply tears off, disconnects from the 'head' or starts malfunctioning. There was even an earphone that sounded great but stopped working for no apparent reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a earphone with those qualities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Good sound quality - I aim to listen mostly 320kpbs mp3 music files with a lot of different instruments/sounds at the same time (progressive, fusion, avant-garde)&#xD;&#xA;* Reliability - I prefer a not-so-good earphone that lasts for over a year than one great that stops working after a month &#xD;&#xA;* Strong cable - The main reason that I want an earphone and not a headphone is because of its portability but most phones I had couldn't have their cables a little twisted without sounding worse (sometimes permanently)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a plus it could come with a small case to protect it inside my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I know those qualities just by looking at the phone specs? Is there a general way better than asking around or trying out the luck with trial and error? Where can I find a good earphone that's not so expensible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="513" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="4a9a9da6-ff14-4e8f-8016-dcc3f45f4575" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:14:43.687" UserId="21" Text="Earphone recommendation with good cost-benefit ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="514" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="4a9a9da6-ff14-4e8f-8016-dcc3f45f4575" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:14:43.687" UserId="21" Text="&lt;earphones&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="160" RevisionGUID="058d46bf-e75d-4134-8b09-102f6ceb710d" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:15:42.497" UserId="6" Text="&gt;but I still want more desktop space&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having worked extensively with virtual reality, I will say without any reservation -  this _really_ isn't a good idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note these are commonly called [HMDs](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head-mounted_display) and you might have luck further researching these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few significant drawbacks with this idea:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  **Pixel density for reading text is poor**. The [Occulus Rift](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oculus_Rift) released next year has a resolution of 1080x1200 (per eye, so effectively that resolution). For most people wanting more than 4 monitors (!) this is going to be infuriatingly small, as you will basically only be able to view a 1080x1200 area at any given time.&#xD;&#xA; - **Design purposes are different**. Virtual reality hardware is nearly exclusively designed to render/create 3D environments (ie gaming) - not 2D. This is primarily a problem because most are still designed to do this, not be &quot;monitor extensions.&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - **The ergonomics of this would be awful**, since you would be rotating your head constantly. If you don't believe this, hold your head at an 45 degree angle for 5 minutes, it will not feel great. &#xD;&#xA;  - ... if it feels ok, add a roughly 1/2 pound (or more) weight on your forehead and repeat. VR HMDs are heavy, which matters more if you use it every day like you intend.&#xD;&#xA; - **Eye strain.** Put your face ~1 inch from a computer monitor for an hour (or eight). You know how people talk about taking breaks from a normal computer monitor at several feet away? Imagine ~1 inch for that time...&#xD;&#xA; - **Windows managers/interaction**. This is a hard problem and not a &quot;productionized and solved&quot; problem yet. Is it ok if you can't see your mouse/keyboard? Probably. &#xD;&#xA; - **Tracking system.** If all that's not bad enough, you need some sort of additional system to identify the orientation of your head, in order to feed data back into your computer, in order to tell the graphics engine what to draw (or what your viewport is if you prefer). This is important because if you are using hardware you likely have to use their custom software - this is incredibly non-trivial to get to work the way you want, in many cases. So if you are going &quot;outside&quot; the designed purpose it is very non trivial (especially since you likely need some sort of specific window manager).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some more specifics of your questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is it wireless?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the Oculus Rift, which [can be hacked to do what you describe](http://hackaday.com/2014/12/11/using-the-oculus-rift-as-a-multi-monitor-replacement/), it has a total resolution of 1080x1200 for each eye, or 2160x1200. Refresh rate is _very_ important for this sort of thing though, slow refresh rates are very disorienting when your entire world is at a say 5 FPS rate. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To have wireless you are basically streaming better-than-HD video at a veryhigh framerate (probably 20 FPS or higher) or it's incredibly disorienting, especially if/when you move your head and the screen doesn't update immediately. Laggy/slow updates will make you sick or frustrated quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to write your own windows manager/etc you can probably have whatever virtual resolution you want. This route would _not_ be for the faint of heart :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; still want more desktop space&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last point is about this again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to use VR/AR for something like this you need to determine whether your primary problems with &quot;only&quot; 4 monitors is visible space (at any given time) or limited tiled space (ie positioning windows on top, in different areas). If you are ok with limiting your visible resolution significantly, for a greater ability to layout windows, then VR/AR in its current form is really not your best bet (given the above disadvantages).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also higher resolution HMDs available than the Oculus Rift. But the Oculus Rift has a much larger community of people exploring this idea than other technologies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation would overwhelmingly be to get higher resolution monitors and/or more of them if you are looking for an actual, day to day, use case. The VR/HMD route is probably fun and interesting but at this point I highly doubt you would find it useful or beneficial for day to day work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="81b4183c-0a7c-4072-b932-e13731365779" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:23:51.753" UserId="229" Comment="deleted 29 characters in body" Text="What type of hard drive should I be looking for a Playstation 4? I am usually partial towards SSD over traditional, but I am also open to the idea of hybrids as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into [Samsung 850 EVO](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U) and [PRO](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B00OAJ412U) SSDs and I have personal experience with SanDisk SSD on my personal gaming computer. These are a little out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different sites that recommend HDDs, but I want to make sure what I am getting is going to have great life expectency along with great performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a site that has a comparison test between the three different types and their performance (too much info to post on here):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/PlayStation_4_Hard_Drive_Speed_Test_Comparison&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the site, SSD has an overall better performance with the install time, boot time, and level load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to recommend companies or even particular drives, that would be very appreciative as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;I am realized that SSDs are a bit out of my price range for 1TB. So I am going ahead and check out some 2.5&quot; HDDs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="161" RevisionGUID="c214b08d-8115-4edc-add2-8d5677b52054" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:36:23.037" UserId="8" Text="I recommend: the Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have/are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Excellent* sound quality  &#xD;&#xA;  With a frequency response of 15-22k Hz, you'll get the full range of sound. The mids are a little less powerful than in some other headphones, but not by any majorly noticeable amount.&#xD;&#xA;- Very reliable&#xD;&#xA;- Flat cable  &#xD;&#xA;  A flat cable, being flat, is less likely to get *twisted* in the sense that a cylindrical wire would. It's also a decently strong cable to boot.&#xD;&#xA;- Reasonable price tag  &#xD;&#xA;  They're around £65 ($100) which, while a noticeable amount of money, is worth it. They provide excellent quality and reliability for their price bracket.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="91682c4f-e1c1-4463-b465-f4edb300d375" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:43:09.737" UserId="21" Comment="add new wanted quality" Text="I've been searching for a good earphone for years but they always stop working after a few months. Sometimes their cables simply tears off, disconnects from the 'head' or starts malfunctioning. There was even an earphone that sounded great but stopped working for no apparent reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a earphone with those qualities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Good sound quality - I aim to listen mostly 320kpbs mp3 music files with a lot of different instruments/sounds at the same time (progressive, fusion, avant-garde)&#xD;&#xA;* Reliability - I prefer a not-so-good earphone that lasts for over a year than one great that stops working after a month &#xD;&#xA;* Strong cable - The main reason that I want an earphone and not a headphone is because of its portability but most phones I had couldn't have their cables a little twisted without sounding worse (sometimes permanently)&#xD;&#xA;* Comfortability - I tend to use earphones for at least half of my awake time on week days so I want and need them to be comfortable that way I don't need to take it off each couple of minutes or every other hour to avoid hurting my ears&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a plus it could come with a small case to protect it inside my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I know those qualities just by looking at the phone specs? Is there a general way better than asking around or trying out the luck with trial and error? Where can I find a good earphone that's not so expensible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="163" RevisionGUID="3dcafbd9-0317-41ce-b788-3f8c01e523b6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:45:22.317" UserId="248" Text="I would recommend the [Roccat Syva][1] earbuds. They have flat cable, good sound &amp; bass, reliable (have them for over 2 years). Also as a side node, they look very cool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some things needed to specify about them:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They have a microphone on the cable (which is pretty good, won't tangle, won't break)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They have a TRRS 3.5 mm jack (that means common jack for microphone and sound)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - There is NO sound control on the cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They do not come with a special case to protect them&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is about $30-$40. Money well spent I would say.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And to answer your other questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Even having the specs on the box, they don't help as much, knowing the impedance and frequency... I study electronics, and still make no sense to me as how they affect the sound quality. It depends how they are built and with what components.&#xD;&#xA; - This &quot;headphone hunt&quot; is more as you said... Trial and error, recommendations, testing etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish you all the best in your search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.roccat.org/en-RO/Products/Gaming-Sound/Syva/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="523" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="164" RevisionGUID="aee1fb01-b9df-474a-bed2-6101adb4dae2" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:47:50.193" UserId="8" Text="If you can use an external drive, there's the [Toshiba 3TB Canvio HDTB330EK3CA][1] (catchy!) It's 3TB and 2.5 inch, *but* it's expensive. Expensive to the extent that you could get 2 2TB drives for less than the 3TB. If it's *just* space and size you're looking at, this could suffice - otherwise, perhaps not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's an internal drive you want, Toshiba also have the [MQ03ABB300][2], which is a 2.5 inch 3TB drive for internal use. Again, it's got the storage and the size, but it carries a premium price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation? Wait until these are cheaper. Meanwhile, get yourself a 3.5 inch drive, or 2 2.5 inch drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/pc-components/storage/disk-drives-hdd-ssd/toshiba-3tb-canvio-external-hard-drive-1296244/review&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://betanews.com/2015/01/07/toshiba-unveils-first-ever-2-5-inch-3tb-hdd-laptop-and-ps4-users-rejoice/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="161" RevisionGUID="e141b185-59fe-4644-94af-90d24007025e" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:48:52.527" UserId="8" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="I recommend: the Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have/are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Excellent* sound quality  &#xD;&#xA;  With a frequency response of 15-22k Hz, you'll get the full range of sound. The mids are a little less powerful than in some other headphones, but not by any majorly noticeable amount.&#xD;&#xA;- Very reliable&#xD;&#xA;- Flat cable  &#xD;&#xA;  A flat cable, being flat, is less likely to get *twisted* in the sense that a cylindrical wire would. It's also a decently strong cable to boot.&#xD;&#xA;- Reasonable price tag  &#xD;&#xA;  They're around £65 ($100) which, while a noticeable amount of money, is worth it. They provide excellent quality and reliability for their price bracket.&#xD;&#xA;- Comfortable&#xD;&#xA;- A microphone attached&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="165" RevisionGUID="9368150b-5830-4601-b0ec-37ec7f3c21b2" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:51:25.903" UserId="60" Text="Like the CODE keyboard, I will recommend the [WASD Keyboards](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-87-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html) 87 key mechanical keyboard. The base cost is $145 USD, but can get up to $185. Lets look at your requirements one by one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This uses a standard USB connector with no special drivers. This will work with your MacBook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It weighs 2 pounds and has rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from moving around. Even with the plastic feet up at the back to tilt the keyboard, it wont move around on its own. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on your choices, which I will get to at the bottom, this keyboard will run anywhere from $140-185 USD. It is a more expensive keyboard, but you do get what you pay for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Format should be US/QWERTY. Bonus points if I can rip the keycaps off and turn it onto Dvorak, if I ever get the ambition up to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is a mechanical keyboard, you can pop off the keys if you wish. However, the keys are only the same if they are on the same row. When you order, you get the opportunity to customize the key-caps. You can have both the QWERTY lettering and Dvorak lettering on the same keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are hardware switches on the keyboard that allow you to switch the layout from QWERTY to Dvorak, you just have to unplug the keyboard to do it (more about this below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ideally**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does not come with Bluetooth. You are going to have to use a USB port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They offer the Windows, Mac, and Linux symbols for the keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are quieter switches available for this keyboard. Stay away from the green and blue switches. If you need help picking switches for your keyboard, check out Jeff Atwood's [answer](http://superuser.com/a/366797/317198) on SuperUser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not needed**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard does not have a numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard could be taken with you, but it might be best to leave it at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Pros**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hardware switches (on the underside of the keyboard) allow you to further customize your keyboard. Check out their [documentaion](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/v2-user-guide.pdf) to see exactly what they can do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can choose how this keyboard will look and feel by changing the key-caps (the colors and lettering for each key), the type of switch, and add in O-rings to reduce noise from the keyboard. O-rings are like tiny rubber bands that go on the bottom of each key to reduce the noise of the key-cap bottoming out (known as the &quot;clack&quot;). O-rings cost $15 and $10 extra to have them install them for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The USB cable is removable. It is a standard USB-A to USB-micro cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can completely change out the keys if you ever grow tired of the way it looks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Cons**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Some Cherry-MX switches are more expensive than the others. Browns add $5 to the cost, Reds add $10, and Clears and Green add $15.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Unlike the CODE Keyboard, this is not back-lit. This can make it more difficult to type on in the dark.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard and the key-caps are quite thick. From the bottom of the keyboard to the top of the first row keys is about one inch. This can take some time to get used to if you are coming from a thin or laptop keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="128" RevisionGUID="fdaafe0e-56c7-4cea-bef7-06b07b06e1f7" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:04:41.703" UserId="8" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="CODE keyboards are, indeed, some of the best I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run the [CODE 104 MX Blue][1], and I've loved it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It doesn't slip (rubberized feet, and good weight).&#xD;&#xA;- $145 (incidentally, all the CODE keyboards are well within your budget)&#xD;&#xA;- Nice and clicky like a mechanical should be - but the &quot;hail on a tin roof&quot; is dampened so you don't get constant rattling (use MX Brown caps if you want completely dampened clicks)&#xD;&#xA;- There's a [version of it without a numpad][2]&#xD;&#xA;- It *does* have the Windows key not a command key - but you can disable the Windows logo key or swap it to function as a command key&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit (adjustable and toggleable)&#xD;&#xA;- You can toggle between QWERTY, Dvorak, and a couple of other layouts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use it with a Windows laptop, so I can't guarantee it works on a Mac - but I'd imagine it does. Also, it comes by default as wired USB - this is convertible to a PS/2 connection, but I don't believe it's Bluetooth-enabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-104-key-mechanical-keyboard-777.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-475.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="36198328-3e62-4c2e-a900-b6727791539d" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:44:57.170" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="Due to the fact that TrueCrypt is [&quot;not secure&quot;][1] I've been looking for some other way to encrypt the data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WARNING: Using TrueCrypt is not secure as it may contain unfixed security issues&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://truecrypt.sourceforge.net/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you provide some information about pros &amp; cons connected with hardware-based encryption? What if firmware is controlled by a malicious third-party? I'll be glad if could recommend some SSD which covers the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. There is no problem with BIOS compatibility.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The quality of the encryption is similar to the TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Firmware of the drive haven't been compromised.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="36198328-3e62-4c2e-a900-b6727791539d" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:44:57.170" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is it worth to buy an SSD with hardware-based full disk encryption?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="105" RevisionGUID="bf75fcbd-9985-4964-84b6-282b8ed781b9" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:16:39.077" UserId="-1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:150,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;HDE 226868&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:180,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;bilbo_pingouin&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="167" RevisionGUID="25d70cf9-3a47-44e6-beb7-f2d58dd28211" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:50:07.147" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="784d0bf3-a4af-4d55-9d38-0173260447fe" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:50:07.147" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="f786f67c-7953-4536-9631-cb6b9cd94cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:03:29.350" UserId="67" Text="I'm looking for a good microphone for recording speech (eg. for podcasts, although it might be used for other things too), ideally for under $30. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has minimal hiss and reasonable sound quality for it's price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Would work with my current setup, which is a laptop + USB Soundcard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that $30 (or even less) is not much for a microphone, but I should be able to get something better then my current very cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some fairly cheap ones on Amazon ([example](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tonor-Professional-Condenser-Microphone-Computer/dp/B00PZMP3Z0/)), how are these on sound quality? The page states that it is a condenser microphone, so does it require phantom power ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations ? Any other tips ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="f786f67c-7953-4536-9631-cb6b9cd94cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:03:29.350" UserId="67" Text="A good, cheap microphone for speech / voice recording?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="f786f67c-7953-4536-9631-cb6b9cd94cd1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:03:29.350" UserId="67" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="170" RevisionGUID="3e7a1f94-a027-4c1a-b1ff-d98bd151c6d5" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:14:05.323" UserId="8" Text="The [Samson Meteorite][1] is pretty good, for its price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Very limited hiss at all. In fact, at high levels, you're more likely to get the environmental noise recorded than any hiss.&#xD;&#xA;- It's a USB mic, so it should work with your laptop with minimal setup (requires driver installation, as do most peripherals)&#xD;&#xA;- It's a condenser mic, which is good for voice recordings.&#xD;&#xA;- It's unidirectional, so will only pick up stuff from the direction you point it at.&#xD;&#xA;- It's just under £30, which is around $45 if I recall correctly - a little over your suggested price, but not massively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/13142862309531516193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="171" RevisionGUID="9bf350cc-bc1e-4eca-87b4-dcb590b5eb51" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:22:30.157" UserId="57" Text="I am looking to get a small drone - possibly quad copter style, but open to other recommendations. The thing is, I've never owned or flown such a machine and would like something small and cheap for &quot;training&quot; purposes. The idea is for this particular purchase to be a way for me to see if I'd like the hobby and if so, eventually get something &quot;cooler&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ideal drone would have &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Video capabilities of at least 720p. Live streaming is not important for this training drone&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to fly for both an adult and a young child&#xD;&#xA; - Maneuverable enough to go through a wooded area&#xD;&#xA; - Less than $100 and cheap replacement parts (because I expect to damage something)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like for this to &quot;feel&quot; similar to the larger drones that have GPS and live video streaming. My hope is that muscle memory I build using this can transfer to a larger piece of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="171" RevisionGUID="9bf350cc-bc1e-4eca-87b4-dcb590b5eb51" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:22:30.157" UserId="57" Text="&quot;Training&quot; drones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="171" RevisionGUID="9bf350cc-bc1e-4eca-87b4-dcb590b5eb51" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:22:30.157" UserId="57" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="ab418b5e-f1e8-4ada-8907-ca18ab1ffd14" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:22:28.523" UserId="65" Comment="added 241 characters in body" Text="I have several brands of home security cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Logitech, TrendNet), but they all have issues with Windows 8 and later.  What home security cameras exist that work entirely without a computer or with the latest version of Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in cameras that require new wiring. I'm looking for cameras that use either WiFi or Powerline adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resolution isn't a big concern, though HD would be nice. Price is more of a factor, as I'd like to stay under $50/each and no monthly fees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apps to view the cameras are a must, the ability to remotely view past motion would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These would be primarily daytime cameras without optical pan/tilt/zoom (mainly because I don't foresee any possibility of those features for $50 or less in the near future).  Viewing angle is also not a concern for $50 cameras." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="549" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="cc87cc91-07e6-4427-8c85-c834e02f4ae6" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:24:59.370" UserId="65" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="I have a peripheral (and occasionally a home server) that hangs and I have to power cycle them to get them to respond again.  I know there are corporate-targeted power strips with the ability to turn outlets on/off over the Internet, but they are usually $150+ which is out of my price range for convenience at home.  Are there power strips for less than $40 that can be controlled over the Internet?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could get by with only single on/off control (one outlet or the whole strip), but of course, multiple outlet control would be awesome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="172" RevisionGUID="76374e89-0aa6-465a-a239-27da33641c92" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:31:08.877" UserId="8" Text="I recommend the [Syma X5C][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated 720p HD camera&#xD;&#xA;- Slow controls (won't shoot off into the distance the instant you touch the sticks - this makes it easy to fly)&#xD;&#xA;- Extreme manoeuvrability. It's an aerobatic drone, so you're sorted there.&#xD;&#xA;- I can find one new on Amazon for £30 ($46)&#xD;&#xA;- Camera records to SD card, so you can download the footage later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A word of warning, which I said in a comment and will repeat here: **don't expect other drones to be similar.** There may well be some similarities between the odd few drone models - but control weights and sensitivities are always going to be different, no matter if they're tunable or not. A 1kg drone will respond faster to control input than a 10kg drone; that's just physics. When getting a new drone, *always* take some low-flying time in a relatively safe location so that you can get used to the new control feel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.symatoys.com/product/show/1901.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="173" RevisionGUID="fa8363c0-2e5a-457e-b2ab-c561f04a1737" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:32:52.147" UserId="155" Text="I was able to find a [Neewer NW-700](http://amzn.com/B00XJF5DMI) ($27) condenser mic that comes with a shock mount and XLR-to-3.5mm cable. I've read that this will most likely require external power because the 3.5mm connection won't do by itself. However, if you're getting into podcasting, you'll want to look into an audio interface and things like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An alternative to this is a [Tonor](http://amzn.com/B00PZMP3Z0) ($16) consender mic. This one is smaller and cheaper, but its 3.5mm input will be all you need. It comes with a tiny tripod which is great because condenser mics can be a pain to mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mics provide great quality for their price and will be usefule for your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="552" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="3c784e67-b3f3-47de-925f-8fdd46906e48" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:45:54.663" UserId="65" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="I have a peripheral (and occasionally a home server) that hangs and I have to power cycle them to get them to respond again.  I know there are corporate-targeted power strips with the ability to turn outlets on/off over the Internet, but they are usually $150+ which is out of my price range for convenience at home.  Are there power strips for less than $40 that can be controlled over the Internet?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could get by with only single on/off control (one outlet or the whole strip), but of course, multiple outlet control would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This particular device is inside my firewall, but the ability to 'reset' the outlet rather than just turn on or off would allow me to use it on the firewall as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="08a25ecd-319e-4ab6-b312-88a81bb9afe4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:05:44.640" UserId="1" Comment="improve title" Text="Reasonably priced Internet-controlled power outlet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="555" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="147" RevisionGUID="08a25ecd-319e-4ab6-b312-88a81bb9afe4" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:05:44.640" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 65 edit id of 44" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="556" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="2915964b-c84d-42cb-afa9-90490b08dbce" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:08:35.237" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:24,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;peterh&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="557" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="50c19956-c87c-48f3-9422-944893fe53af" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:14:37.693" UserId="65" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="I have several brands of home security cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Logitech, TrendNet), but they all have issues with Windows 8 and later.  What home security cameras exist that work entirely without a computer or with the latest version of Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in cameras that require new wiring. I'm looking for cameras that use either WiFi or Powerline adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resolution isn't a big concern, though HD would be nice. Price is more of a factor, as I'd like to stay under $50/each and no monthly fees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apps to view the cameras are a must, the ability to remotely view past motion would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These would be primarily indoor daytime cameras without optical pan/tilt/zoom (mainly because I don't foresee any possibility of those features for $50 or less in the near future).  Viewing angle is also not a concern for $50 cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Audio would also be nice, but not required (I point most of them outside, so audio doesn't really work anyway)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="174" RevisionGUID="136ba4bc-bf3a-4894-8c17-3c6e911d8102" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:40:18.407" UserId="45" Text="## [Raspberry Pi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the hardware side, there's an HDMI port; you can connect a monitor up to 1920x1200 (possibly through an HDMI-DVI or HDMI-VGA adapter, which costs barely more than an HDMI cable). There are 4 USB2 ports. The Ethernet port is 100Mbit/s, which should be plenty sufficient for a thin client, especially if it's displaying a web page rather than doing X11 over Ethernet. Wifi isn't built in; if you need that you'll need to get a USB wifi adapter. There's also a pair of sound jacks in case you need to plug in a microphone and loudspeakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The small form factor and low power consumption (far less than anything you could get with an Intel processor) make it appropriate for environments with dicey power. There's no battery, though you can purchase one separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one downside I see is that the only form of storage is an SD card, which can be removed in an untimely manner. You may want to hold it in place with sticky tape or something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's only 1GB of RAM, not 2GB, but that's enough to display a few web pages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi has an ARM CPU. That means Windows is out (except a special version of Windows 10, but most Windows software won't run on it since most vendors distribute only x86 binaries), but almost all Linux software will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu 14.04 doesn't officially support ARM but there's an [unofficial image](https://wiki.ubuntu.com/ARM/RaspberryPi). If you prefer a distribution that's officially mantained, you can get Debian jessie (there's also Raspbian, but it's optimized for the Raspberry Pi 1, not version 2 which is what you should get now that it's out). Ubuntu is based on Debian and pretty much all the system administration will be the same. Debian doesn't ship Ubuntu's Unity interface, though¹.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both Firefox and Chromium (not Chrome) run on the Pi. There are also more lightweight browsers; try them with your web pages and see if they support all the features you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reference price for the RPi2 is $35, to which you'll need to add a bunch of accessories (USB power supply, keyboard, mouse, monitor, cables, USB wifi adapter if needed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are [other similar ARM-based boards that may be more adapted to your needs](http://www.bigboardlist.com/), for example if 2GB RAM is a strong requirement, or if you really want Gigabit Ethernet, or if you need wifi, etc. The reason I'm putting the Pi forward is that it's the one with the most literature and support out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¹ &lt;sub&gt; This may be a relief. &lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="8310e65b-c727-40d4-bb56-9b1121156fd8" CreationDate="2015-09-11T23:47:29.187" UserId="205" Text="i am searching a good and fast microSD card with 64GB or 128GB for a reasonable price tag. I dont know what it is important when buying microSD cards so i would like some advice and some specific models that are good and have a good price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nikusch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="561" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="8310e65b-c727-40d4-bb56-9b1121156fd8" CreationDate="2015-09-11T23:47:29.187" UserId="205" Text="64/128GB microSD card for a smartphone(Huawei Honor 7)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="562" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="8310e65b-c727-40d4-bb56-9b1121156fd8" CreationDate="2015-09-11T23:47:29.187" UserId="205" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="176" RevisionGUID="a058535e-e0fd-474a-8204-d233faca4467" CreationDate="2015-09-12T00:11:31.473" UserId="116" Text="I recommend using a [SanDisk][1] MicroSD card. They're probably one of the most popular options, and for a good reason, too. They're very reliable, and not too expensive (Especially the 64GB one; The 128GB is newer technology, so it'll cost more per GB). I've used mine for years, and never had any problems with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be tempting to buy a really cheap one from a brand/company nobody ever heard of, but I don't recommend purchasing storage devices from untrusted/unknown companies, because, in my experience, they tend to cause lots of problems, most often being data loss.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Adapter-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA-Newest-Version/dp/B010Q57S62/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="177" RevisionGUID="c42fad00-9fe0-471d-b1af-6b91c38e925a" CreationDate="2015-09-12T01:39:11.187" UserId="164" Text="There are several great brands that make Micro SD cards, including, but not limited to&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - SanDisk&#xD;&#xA; - Lexar&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung&#xD;&#xA; - PNY&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read [here][1] that Samsung and SanDisk tend to make the best micro SD cards in terms of performance, but the difference is not much to look into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Realistically, they will all serve you well, so if you do find a really good deal on a MicroSD card, just go for it. A link to the Amazon Page for MicroSD cards is [here][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-microsd-card/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=lp_3015433011_nr_p_n_feature_two_brow_3?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A172456%2Cn%3A516866%2Cn%3A3015433011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A6518305011&amp;bbn=3015433011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442021432&amp;rnid=6518301011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="e662b992-8b21-46b4-aa05-d2c85e8c5981" CreationDate="2015-09-12T02:26:43.727" UserId="211" Text="In my case I have been using Raid 1 Mirroring with two disks on an onboard controller of a motherboard that recently dropped dead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm looking for a replacement motherboard, but I'm a bit worried about the data on the disks which I really want to recover. Since it was mirroring I half expect any SATA controller to just recognize the partitions and work automatically, but on the other half I guess it might not work that way. I don't have a 2nd system on which I can quickly test this and besides I'm concerned that it could be potentially dangerous to just plug it into any system. Some BIOS might just try to automatically initialize it and destroy some data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just go ahead and purchase a new board without worries or should I figure out exactly what make / type and version of controller the board was using and try to find a new board with the same make / type / version RAID controller?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record, my particular motherboard was a dual Xeon Tyan S2696. It was rendering some footage overnight and in the morning I found it dead. It does not even beep anymore, no fans, no leds, when powered on. The USB ports do get powered with 5V but it looks like there's a swollen capacitor between two PCI-x slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm particularly interested in my specific case, I'm also interested in general cases, what if I had been striping or using other Raid configurations? Maybe I would have been better off without using RAID mirroring at all?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="566" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="e662b992-8b21-46b4-aa05-d2c85e8c5981" CreationDate="2015-09-12T02:26:43.727" UserId="211" Text="Are RAID controllers interchangeable? Is data recoverable with a different controller?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="567" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="e662b992-8b21-46b4-aa05-d2c85e8c5981" CreationDate="2015-09-12T02:26:43.727" UserId="211" Text="&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;onboard-raid&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="568" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="2470d604-3b7e-4589-b7f5-865b85405c2c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:10:17.767" UserId="57" Text="The baby monitors I have experience with have two channels. The channels are labeled &quot;A&quot; and &quot;B&quot; with no indication of what frequency the two are actually using. Different models *seem* to use different frequencies for similarly named channels. I make this assumption because two base stations of different models configured to transmit on &quot;A&quot; are not both picked up by the receiving baby monitor. Two monitors of the same brand seem to cause interference if both transmit on the same channel, because the receiving monitors only pick up static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to have a single receiving monitor for multiple transmitting monitors. I don't like having to set up multiple monitors to hear if the children are crying while I'm in the basement at night or working outside during nap time. Is there a monitor that allows me to set up multiple monitors in the children's rooms (preferably 3), configure them all to transmit on the same channel, and only requires that I have 1 monitor to receive sound? I don't need to be able to identify which child is crying (as I could when each room had it's only individual monitor/channel). I just need to be able to hear them all so that I can walk into the hallway and determine who's making noise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="569" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="2470d604-3b7e-4589-b7f5-865b85405c2c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:10:17.767" UserId="57" Text="Baby monitor that can have multiple transmitting stations on the same channel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="570" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="2470d604-3b7e-4589-b7f5-865b85405c2c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:10:17.767" UserId="57" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="180" RevisionGUID="c6edd396-38fc-47e6-813d-da83e6487532" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:54:54.320" UserId="57" Text="I recommend the [ASUS RT-AC66U][1]. It's been rated by [SmallNetBuilder][2] to handle 835Mbps download:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ASUS RT-AC66U][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is one of the higher through puts I've seen personally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, it has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 450Mbps wireless speeds on 802.11n&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 1300Mbps wireless speeds on 802.11ac&#xD;&#xA; - Concurrent dual band transmissions so you can get up to 450+1300 for a total of 1.65Gbps wirelessly if you utilize both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz frequencies&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 6 guest networks (3 on the 2.4Ghz band and 3 on the 5Ghz band); Each guest network can be configured to have internet access during certain times, require different passwords from one another, allow/deny access to the internal network&#xD;&#xA; - 4 gigabit ethernet ports&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB ports &#xD;&#xA; - Parental controls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I also am very fond of the administration interface. It is &quot;pretty&quot; to look at and doesn't scare a new user, but allows users that know what they are doing the ability to do so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Disclaimer: I am a happy owner of this model router. I do not have gigabit internet, however I have installed two such routers in small businesses that do have gigabit internet. Both businesses have mentioned they are happy with their internet service*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC66U/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31841-asus-rt-ac66u-80211ac-dual-band-wireless-ac1750-gigabit-router-reviewed?limitstart=0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9E7tN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="181" RevisionGUID="11a284a9-5106-4eba-9979-4d2b71d8cb70" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:30:10.087" UserId="265" Text="The Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius is network controllable.  There are mobile device apps for controlling it.  If I remember correctly it's based on Electric Imp so it should be easy to write your own apps to control it.  It's &lt; $65.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also check out the Ankuoo Neo, YW Smart Plug, KanKun Smart Plug, and Broadlink Smart plug.  All are &lt; $30." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="6adfbf62-a221-4dd4-b585-44ec5094aa45" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:01.053" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title; grammar" Text="I'm looking for a good microphone for recording speech (eg. for podcasts, although it might be used for other things too), ideally for under $30. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has minimal hiss and reasonable sound quality for its price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Would work with my current setup, which is a laptop + USB sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that $30 (or even less) is not much for a microphone, but I should be able to get something better then my current very cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some fairly cheap ones on Amazon ([example](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tonor-Professional-Condenser-Microphone-Computer/dp/B00PZMP3Z0/)), does anyone have experience with the sound quality of these? The page states that it is a condenser microphone, so does it require phantom power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations? Any other tips?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="575" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="6adfbf62-a221-4dd4-b585-44ec5094aa45" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:01.053" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title; grammar" Text="Good, cheap microphone for speech / voice recording?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="576" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="6adfbf62-a221-4dd4-b585-44ec5094aa45" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:01.053" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 8, 67 edit id of 45" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="182" RevisionGUID="50eb1686-d81f-402c-a18b-cca6a53ffeef" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:34.460" UserId="265" Text="I'm looking to build a small FFmpeg based video encoder using a BlackMagic Intensity Pro 4K capture card.  This card requires a PCIe 4x slot.  What's the smallest motherboard/case combination that will hold a 4x card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are lots of small barebones systems, but most have mini PCIe (1x) connectors, and all of the PCIe risers I've found are either 1x to 1x or 1x to 16x.  The 16x connector is way too large.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="578" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="182" RevisionGUID="50eb1686-d81f-402c-a18b-cca6a53ffeef" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:34.460" UserId="265" Text="Smallest PCIe 4x box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="579" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="182" RevisionGUID="50eb1686-d81f-402c-a18b-cca6a53ffeef" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:54:34.460" UserId="265" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="580" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="59" RevisionGUID="ce9e91fa-d4b0-40f0-a6f4-41008e333765" CreationDate="2015-09-12T07:03:13.277" UserDisplayName="user137" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a weatherproof (or waterproof only) IP Camera capable of covering long distances like 500 meters or more for 24/7 surveillance in industrial areas. I've searched among popular brands but none of them had this specification. most camera lens sized I found are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.6mm →15 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 6mm →20 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 8mm →26 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 12mm →40 meters&#xD;&#xA; - 16mm →60 meters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only Important specifications for the IP camera is having a good video quality and at least 500 meters of straight coverage, so it doesn't matter whether it uses mechanical zoom or digital but it definitely must be a PTZ (Pan, Tilt, Zoom) camera. Thanks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE:** the camera's video quality need to be HD and 10 pixels per inch. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="581" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="173" RevisionGUID="995b5830-6e7b-44d4-b5c8-dc4ceee381ee" CreationDate="2015-09-12T07:15:06.993" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I was able to find a [Neewer NW-700](http://amzn.com/B00XJF5DMI) ($27) condenser mic that comes with a shock mount and XLR-to-3.5mm cable. I've read that this will most likely require external power because the 3.5mm connection won't do by itself. However, if you're getting into podcasting, you'll want to look into an audio interface and things like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An alternative to this is a [Tonor](http://amzn.com/B00PZMP3Z0) ($16) consender mic. This one is smaller and cheaper, but its 3.5mm input will be all you need. It comes with a tiny tripod which is great because condenser mics can be a pain to mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mics provide great quality for their price and will be useful for your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="582" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="8ea4e7bc-83b5-4ee4-b5fe-7fbc6eda0753" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:13:52.060" UserId="211" Comment="Removed the last paragraph about usage" Text="In my case I have been using Raid 1 Mirroring with two disks on an onboard controller of a motherboard that recently dropped dead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm looking for a replacement motherboard, but I'm a bit worried about the data on the disks which I really want to recover. Since it was mirroring I half expect any SATA controller to just recognize the partitions and work automatically, but on the other half I guess it might not work that way. I don't have a 2nd system on which I can quickly test this and besides I'm concerned that it could be potentially dangerous to just plug it into any system. Some BIOS might just try to automatically initialize it and destroy some data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just go ahead and purchase a new board without worries or should I figure out exactly what make / type and version of controller the board was using and try to find a new board with the same make / type / version RAID controller?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record, my particular motherboard was a dual Xeon Tyan S2696. It was rendering some footage overnight and in the morning I found it dead. It does not even beep anymore, no fans, no leds, when powered on. The USB ports do get powered with 5V but it looks like there's a swollen capacitor between two PCI-x slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="50c8eb66-c56e-422e-9bb6-0cdee5e1624c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:31:20.880" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar" Text="I am searching a good, fast microSD card with 64GB or 128GB of storage for a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what it is important when buying microSD cards, so I would like some advice and some specific models that are good and have a good price. Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="584" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="50c8eb66-c56e-422e-9bb6-0cdee5e1624c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:31:20.880" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar" Text="64/128GB microSD card that works with the Huawei Honor 7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="50c8eb66-c56e-422e-9bb6-0cdee5e1624c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:31:20.880" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 46" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="38cda684-4966-437f-89c6-8a8a72ae92d5" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:31:20.880" UserId="8" Comment="improve title; grammar - this is Undo's edit, but nobody else can approve yet so I'm a improve voting to insta-approve" Text="I am searching for a good, fast microSD card with 64GB or 128GB of storage for a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what it is important when buying microSD cards, so I would like some advice and some specific models that are good and have a good price. Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="183" RevisionGUID="0d5f5928-c2fe-4964-a4d8-3e6a229b7cc5" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:44:23.083" UserId="203" Text="I'm going to divide water cooling into two categories: Closed loop and Open loop. Now we can compare Tower (air), CLC, Open loop and exotic (LN2 or similar) cooling methods.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Big air coolers are generally around the $50-80 mark and produce decent performance for the 50-150W CPUs that you see in everyday life. Pretty heavy, and mounted on the motherboard, in small cases, these are not options. Smaller ones are cheaper, but they cool far worse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CLCs are generally designed for CPU cooling only. The small radiator ones (120/140 mm) **do not** offer an improvement over air cooling. The big ones (240/280/360 mm) are advantageous for high TDP (above 200 W) or big overclocks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another advantage is that the big, heavy metal block is mounted on the case instead of the motherboard, which reduces the stress on the motherboard, and you don't have to remove the cooler when shipping it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CLCs are not customizable, and good units cost about $80 - 100, around $20 more than your high end air cooler. They are also a fair bit noisier, because of the pump. Finally, there are sometimes issues with VRM overheating, because of the reduced airflow near the VRM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Open loops are more of the same, but you can add GPUs and your Motherboard to the list of things that can be cooled by the loop. You can have far larger or more radiators, add dye to your cooler, etc, etc. Unfortunately, open loops are also more vulnerable to leakage, because they're not sealed. Good open loops cost around the $200 mark, though you can get hybrid systems that start out as ordinary, but unsealed CLCs that you can eventually modify.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exotic systems are only used when you want to push your hardware to the limit. Often, this means below ambient cooling, where the temperature is below air temperature in the local area. Beware of the condensation. LN2 systems are some of the more popular ones. I'm not sure exactly how much these cost, but be prepared to pay more than $400. If you want to have 4 GPUs and one 8 core CPU all in the same system and push the clock to double the stock frequency, this cooling is for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="076986cd-e7bb-4072-9732-e53d126b2d79" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:19:17.140" UserId="253" Text="I have a 72 GB ( 15k RPM) SCSI (SAS) HDD from a server machine (which I got from a friend) which I want to use in my desktop mainly as OS installation drive (primary partition). But my desktop has only SATA ports, some online search about SCSI (SAS) to SATA adapter ( and vice-versa ) shows there are some such adapters but I would like to know if they are actually compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also will there be any significant performance degradation and is using such setup (SCSI ON SATA) meaningful/harmful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="076986cd-e7bb-4072-9732-e53d126b2d79" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:19:17.140" UserId="253" Text="SCSI (SAS) Hard Disk on SATA port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="076986cd-e7bb-4072-9732-e53d126b2d79" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:19:17.140" UserId="253" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;scsi&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="185" RevisionGUID="4c4374a7-b621-4e29-87ca-89b82de7bd30" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:27:07.177" UserId="155" Text="For the longest time I've had the old [Logitech Z313](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/speaker-system-z313?crid=1589) 2.1 sound system for my computer. After so many years of use and moving around, I'm looking for a more portable and more powerful system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Z313's wiring is aggravating. The 3.5mm from the computer goes into a controller, then to the sub, then to the speakers. Also, the sub doesn't have a control to turn bass down independently from the speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I'm looking for is a sound system with these features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no more than $150&#xD;&#xA;- 2.1 layout&#xD;&#xA;- subwoofer with: independent control, 20+ Watts, ~6 inch external driver&#xD;&#xA;- 2+ inch speaker driver&#xD;&#xA;- flat-bottomed subwoofer would be better than one with feet&#xD;&#xA;- easy setup, not too many cords (very important)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An inline or onboard volume control is actually something I don't want since I can control volume with my keyboard and directly in Windows, but if a good system has it, I won't mind." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="185" RevisionGUID="4c4374a7-b621-4e29-87ca-89b82de7bd30" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:27:07.177" UserId="155" Text="What are some powerful computer sound systems with easy setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="185" RevisionGUID="4c4374a7-b621-4e29-87ca-89b82de7bd30" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:27:07.177" UserId="155" Text="&lt;sound-system&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="186" RevisionGUID="b30f3226-352f-4ab2-ab32-00b6bc8bcaf6" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:48:26.220" UserId="15" Text="I am looking for portable or medium-sized scanner which can take around 20-30 pages at the same time, scan them and convert into PDF format (compatible with OS X).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually scanners having Duplex Automatic Document feeders are available in large [copy machines][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some time ago I've bought Canon P-150M Portable Scanner which could do that, but the document feeder wasn't very good and software was too slow. The main problem was that the paper usually got stuck (more sheets then more chances to happen) and I had to start the scanning each time from the beginning, and sometimes the scanned pages were crooked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any scanners which can scan A4 pages more efficiently and reliably as described above?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the basic criteria are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- it can either with printer or without,&#xD;&#xA;- A4 (with possibility of smaller sizes),&#xD;&#xA;- duplex automatic document feeder (DADF) with capacity of at least 20-30 pages, &#xD;&#xA;- driver (eventually software) compatible with OS X (and eventually Linux),&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't crook the scanned pages,&#xD;&#xA;- it's not so expensive&#xD;&#xA;- not too big (desktop size, not as big as a copy machine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photocopier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="595" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="186" RevisionGUID="b30f3226-352f-4ab2-ab32-00b6bc8bcaf6" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:48:26.220" UserId="15" Text="Reliable desktop scanner with Duplex Automatic Document feeder (DADF)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="186" RevisionGUID="b30f3226-352f-4ab2-ab32-00b6bc8bcaf6" CreationDate="2015-09-12T09:48:26.220" UserId="15" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="597" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="382f015e-b7d1-4785-9783-b64d15b27f1c" CreationDate="2015-09-12T10:09:19.933" UserId="58" Comment="added 208 characters in body" Text="There are more parameters when comparing and choosing CPUs.  &#xD;&#xA;Also lets not forget that performance depends on what we do.  &#xD;&#xA;Lets bring list of parameters which can affect performance (sorted by importance, high to low).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Performance:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU frequency - how many GHz. The most important parameter. The more, the better.&#xD;&#xA; - Core/Thread count - (another very important parameter) how many actual cores you have, and how many threads the cores have. For example,  i7 may have 4 cores and 8 threads, whereas Core 2 Duo has only 2 cores and 2 threads. That means you can run 8 (better 4) concurrent program threads on i7, compared to 2 on Core 2 Duo, which results in better  multitasking/multithreading. &#xD;&#xA; This is the main reason why i7 2.4GHz is more powerful than a 2.5/3GHz Core 2 Duo.&#xD;&#xA; - IPC - instructions per clock cycle. Another important perameter. Like GHz, the greater, the better. This measurement can often be hard to find, but is very important when comparing processors of the same frequency. (by Firepower0701)&#xD;&#xA; - Bits - 32-bit, 64-bit. A high-performance application created for 64-bit  CPU may have better performance than 32-bit performance. Also it can limit maximal amount of RAM (depends on OS). For example, old Windows XP could see 4GB RAM when CPU was 32-bit. Today most CPUs are 64-bit and usually you will not feel RAM limit (unless you are running a powerful server).&#xD;&#xA; - Cache - a very fast but little memory placed near to CPU. Usually improves performance (if we omit cache-miss, but that's another theme)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other options to compare:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support of hardware - RAM type/size/frequency, for example, DDR4 2133MHz, 64GB.  &#xD;&#xA;Another important parameter can be PCI (Express) version and number of lanes (e.g. for connecting SSDs). The higher, the better. &#xD;&#xA; - Power consumption, [TDP][1] - watts consumed by CPU and produced heat. This is important especially for mobile devices, tablets and notebooks which have battery and don't have good cooling systems. Does not affect performance.&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in graphics - newer CPUs usually have better graphics than old ones and support more monitors. Of course that's not enough to run new high-performance games but is good for home/office usage and low-end gaming. But built-in graphics is not so important when you already have graphics card.&#xD;&#xA; - Other features - features like HyperThreading, Turbo Boost, VTx. Some of them may have good impact on performance, others may be useful for specific cases. Most of them don't increase performance on daily usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, you can use benchmarks to test CPUs, or see benchmark results in sites like [FutureMark][2], [PassMark CPU Benchmark][3], or use benchmarks such as [Cadalyst][4] for AutoCAD to determine performance of one software.&#xD;&#xA;(This is a better way if you don't know much about hardware.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: There are lots of other parameters. If some very important parameter is missing here, feel free to edit and add (by placing low-importance parameter in lower place, higher in higher).&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cadalyst.com/benchmark-test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="600" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="44057204-c1d5-4fb8-8fca-b78692de9616" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:49:24.647" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:58,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jet&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="187" RevisionGUID="d0aa9e0f-8beb-41f5-ab2f-5043f591f558" CreationDate="2015-09-12T13:04:38.010" UserId="84" Text="Your requirement &amp;ndash; to be able to read license plates at 500 meters &amp;ndash; is pushing the outer limits of commercial technology.  You are talking about a camera that will cost thousands of dollars, and may be a custom-built item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you will have to contact higher-end camera manufacturers directly to discuss whether existing products meet your requirements, or what they would charge to build one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you may be able to hack one together using a &quot;tethered&quot; higher-end digital camera and lens with waterproof housing. But that's still going to cost 4-figures per camera." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="602" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="187" RevisionGUID="d50df2f2-5e25-47dc-904b-e5f71e211623" CreationDate="2015-09-12T13:09:40.063" UserId="84" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="Your requirement &amp;ndash; to be able to read license plates at 500 meters &amp;ndash; is pushing the outer limits of commercial technology.  You are talking about a camera that will cost thousands of dollars, and may be a custom-built item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you will have to contact higher-end camera manufacturers directly to discuss whether existing products meet your requirements, or what they would charge to build one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you may be able to hack one together using a &quot;tethered&quot; higher-end consumer digital camera and lens with waterproof housing. But that's still going to cost 4-figures per camera." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="603" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="177" RevisionGUID="5f5f561d-9f91-4ea7-ae2a-74392557cd15" CreationDate="2015-09-12T14:23:49.257" UserId="164" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="There are several great brands that make Micro SD cards, including, but not limited to&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - SanDisk&#xD;&#xA; - Lexar&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung&#xD;&#xA; - PNY&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read [here][1] that Samsung and SanDisk tend to make the best micro SD cards in terms of performance, but the difference is not much to look into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Realistically, they will all serve you well, so if you do find a really good deal on a MicroSD card, just go for it. A link to the Amazon Page for MicroSD cards is [here][2]. Just make sure you look at the reviews. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-microsd-card/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=lp_3015433011_nr_p_n_feature_two_brow_3?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A172456%2Cn%3A516866%2Cn%3A3015433011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A6518305011&amp;bbn=3015433011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442021432&amp;rnid=6518301011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="188" RevisionGUID="97fe0d97-b95b-4645-95aa-f8d8b3518ede" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:15:34.293" UserId="273" Text="I think we all noticed the recent Intel Skylake release at IFA and Gamescom 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Skylake brought a new generation of processor supporting a new generation of I/O interfaces, mainly Thunderbolt 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I'm planning to get a Laptop with Thunderbolt 3 very soon I'm looking for a docking station for said laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The station should connect with my laptop via Thunderbolt 3 (preferably) or via USB 3.1 (type C). If there's absolutely nothing supporting Thunderbolt 3 or USB 3.1 (C) USB 3.0 (type A) is also acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should feature at least 4x USB 2.0, 4x USB 3.0 (both type A), a HDMI interface and a gigabit ethernet interface. Ideally it would also feature USB 3.1 type C or Thunderbolt 3 ports and / or display port(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="605" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="188" RevisionGUID="97fe0d97-b95b-4645-95aa-f8d8b3518ede" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:15:34.293" UserId="273" Text="Docking station with new Interfaces?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="606" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="188" RevisionGUID="97fe0d97-b95b-4645-95aa-f8d8b3518ede" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:15:34.293" UserId="273" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="607" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="38942b30-ab9f-4b9d-bf43-10248bc77bd0" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:32:27.967" UserId="273" Text="I'm always looking for ways to improve my security in the internet. As I'm also a programmer and somewhat active on [InfoSec][1] and [Crypto][2] I decided that a smart card is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thereby looking for a smart card (or an USB-token) that has the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [elliptic curve cryptography][3] (256 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSA][4] (2048 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Storage for at least 10 keys of each of them&#xD;&#xA; - [FIPS 140-2 Level 3][5] certification (preferred) or high [Common Criteria certification][6] (EAL 4+)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be acquirable for private persons (non-companies)&#xD;&#xA; - Driver ([PKCS#11][7] / [CSP][8]) support for Windows 7 and Windows 10 (both x64), either directly or via [OpenSC][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-mandatory points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for custom ECC curves&#xD;&#xA; - Native support for [Curve25519][10] / Curve448&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSASSA-PSS][11] or [ECDSA][12] (without the software doing the hashing)&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100 per piece)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://security.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://crypto.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_curve_cryptography&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RSA_%28cryptosystem%29&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIPS_140-2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Criteria&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_11&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryptographic_Service_Provider&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://github.com/OpenSC/OpenSC/wiki&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve25519&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_1&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_Curve_Digital_Signature_Algorithm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="608" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="38942b30-ab9f-4b9d-bf43-10248bc77bd0" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:32:27.967" UserId="273" Text="What is a good Smartcard for home use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="609" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="38942b30-ab9f-4b9d-bf43-10248bc77bd0" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:32:27.967" UserId="273" Text="&lt;smartcards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="190" RevisionGUID="fc87d493-5eb1-4b1a-8811-37f69b50936b" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:37:19.273" UserId="24" Text="I am looking for a way to construct a two-way communication channel between remote hosts (far away), in big electric smog (large city), but where the weather is mostly clean (some rainy day is not a problem).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it could be relatively easily solved by tunneling rs232 through a modulated laser, and tunneling ppp into that rs232.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, googling for different laser solutions, I've found only industrial solutions and nothing in the home budget size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do they exist? Its technology probably isn't much more complex, as an infrared tv controller." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="611" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="190" RevisionGUID="fc87d493-5eb1-4b1a-8811-37f69b50936b" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:37:19.273" UserId="24" Text="Cheap solution for point-to-point laser communication" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="612" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="190" RevisionGUID="fc87d493-5eb1-4b1a-8811-37f69b50936b" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:37:19.273" UserId="24" Text="&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="fcceb5c9-37fc-43db-b64f-4b90021e478b" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:38:14.230" UserId="273" Comment="added contactless prefered" Text="I'm always looking for ways to improve my security in the internet. As I'm also a programmer and somewhat active on [InfoSec][1] and [Crypto][2] I decided that a smart card is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thereby looking for a smart card (or an USB-token) that has the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [elliptic curve cryptography][3] (256 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSA][4] (2048 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Storage for at least 10 keys of each of them&#xD;&#xA; - [FIPS 140-2 Level 3][5] certification (preferred) or high [Common Criteria certification][6] (EAL 4+)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be acquirable for private persons (non-companies)&#xD;&#xA; - Driver ([PKCS#11][7] / [CSP][8]) support for Windows 7 and Windows 10 (both x64), either directly or via [OpenSC][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-mandatory points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for custom ECC curves&#xD;&#xA; - Native support for [Curve25519][10] / Curve448&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSASSA-PSS][11] or [ECDSA][12] (without the software doing the hashing)&#xD;&#xA; - For actual cards: Contactless operatibility&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100 per piece)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://security.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://crypto.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_curve_cryptography&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RSA_%28cryptosystem%29&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIPS_140-2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Criteria&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_11&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryptographic_Service_Provider&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://github.com/OpenSC/OpenSC/wiki&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve25519&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_1&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_Curve_Digital_Signature_Algorithm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="191" RevisionGUID="4c3a2ab6-098e-4173-a2cc-b76947580859" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:41:43.060" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="192" RevisionGUID="6279a373-f3aa-4549-bf3c-a6af69a53189" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:41:43.060" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="193" RevisionGUID="cf22131c-fad7-479a-85ff-6485f2af0e52" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:53:44.223" UserId="273" Text="I've looked quite a bit through my local electronics stores but nobody could help me there and I couldn't find what I was looking for, so I'm asking this here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a &quot;router&quot;, supporting gigabit ethernet and at least having four ports. This router should also be able to open its own WLAN network as well as act as repeater for other networks. Support for (multi-stream) 802.11ac WLAN is preferred but only 802.11n (2.4+5 GHz) is mandatory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll scratch your head now and ask: Why can't a plain router be used for this? - I'm looking for a solution that is *not* a standard home router and doesn't support connecting to the internet by itself as I consider this an unnecessary feature for this device. Its use-case would be to open a new WLAN network at a physically different location from the internet access point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100)&#xD;&#xA; - A webinterface for configuration purposes&#xD;&#xA; - Regular updates or *really* good firmware (*really* unlikely usually)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="193" RevisionGUID="cf22131c-fad7-479a-85ff-6485f2af0e52" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:53:44.223" UserId="273" Text="Switch with WLAN?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="193" RevisionGUID="cf22131c-fad7-479a-85ff-6485f2af0e52" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:53:44.223" UserId="273" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="619" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="193" RevisionGUID="6ff507df-bd41-4b94-b26e-b5094520b67b" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:20:51.290" UserId="273" Comment="made 802.11ac mandatory to explain the price limit better" Text="I've looked quite a bit through my local electronics stores but nobody could help me there and I couldn't find what I was looking for, so I'm asking this here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a &quot;router&quot;, supporting gigabit ethernet and at least having four ports. This router should also be able to open its own WLAN network as well as act as repeater for other networks. Support for (multi-stream) 802.11ac WLAN is mandatory. Only if there's *really* nothing supporting 802.11ac 802.11n would be acceptable but it would have to have good sending power and range and support 2.4 and 5 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll scratch your head now and ask: Why can't a plain router be used for this? - I'm looking for a solution that is *not* a standard home router and doesn't support connecting to the internet by itself as I consider this an unnecessary feature for this device. Its use-case would be to open a new WLAN network at a physically different location from the internet access point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100)&#xD;&#xA; - A webinterface for configuration purposes&#xD;&#xA; - Regular updates or *really* good firmware (*really* unlikely usually)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="620" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="1c38a849-94f4-4efc-b081-3deb5652d729" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:53:08.657" UserId="54" Text="Is it worth to buy Thinkpad **W520** with NVIDIA Quadro **2000M**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only difference is connected with the CUDA cores and Max Power Consumption. The same Thinkpad with 2000M is at least **$100** more expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2000M:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 192 Cuda Cores &#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 55W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1000M:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 96 Cuda Cores&#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 45W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How Will I Use It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Programming&#xD;&#xA; - Editing raster graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Occasional gaming (not necessarily new games)&#xD;&#xA; - Basic video editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="621" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="1c38a849-94f4-4efc-b081-3deb5652d729" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:53:08.657" UserId="54" Text="Second-hand Thinkpad W520 (NVIDIA Quadro 1000M vs 2000M)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="622" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="1c38a849-94f4-4efc-b081-3deb5652d729" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:53:08.657" UserId="54" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="623" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="f5d8ecbd-dddc-4c59-ba4f-97f1eefd0b55" CreationDate="2015-09-12T18:07:05.473" UserId="54" Comment="edited body" Text="Is it worth to buy Thinkpad **W520** with NVIDIA Quadro **2000M**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only difference is connected with the CUDA cores and Max Power Consumption. The same Thinkpad with 2000M is at least **$100** more expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2000M:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 192 Cuda Cores &#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 55W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1000M:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 96 Cuda Cores&#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 45W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How will I use it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Programming&#xD;&#xA; - Editing raster graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Occasional gaming (not necessarily new games)&#xD;&#xA; - Basic video editing (mostly short videos)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="624" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="d592a7a4-0572-4697-9aab-5c7c311f06e8" CreationDate="2015-09-12T18:31:02.687" UserId="54" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="Is it worth to buy Thinkpad **W520** with NVIDIA Quadro 2000M?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only difference is connected with the CUDA cores and Max Power Consumption. The same Thinkpad with 2000M is at least **$100** more expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NVIDIA Quadro 2000M**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 192 Cuda Cores &#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 55W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NVIDIA Quadro 1000M**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 96 Cuda Cores&#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 45W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How will I use it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Programming&#xD;&#xA; - Editing raster graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Occasional gaming (not necessarily new games)&#xD;&#xA; - Basic video editing (mostly short videos)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="625" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="195" RevisionGUID="8985d747-a4b8-405f-b2f0-b289b95a7547" CreationDate="2015-09-12T18:41:40.370" UserId="241" Text="&gt; Programming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither GPU has any impact here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Editing raster graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It depends somewhat on what sort of editing (and how large the graphics are), but most editing can be handled adequately by a modern CPU.  Note that GPU-accelerated editing is generally only present in high-end software; if you're using something like Paint.Net or GIMP, you probably won't see any benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Occasional gaming (not necessarily new games)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither GPU is suitable for gaming.  The optimizations that make the Quadro line good for rendering or CAD also greatly impairs their gaming performance.  Expect performance comparable to the slowest of gaming GPUs, or worse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basic video editing (mostly short videos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is where the 2000M may shine over the 1000M.  If you're transcoding video, or performing operations that modify the entire video (scaling, shake reduction, contrast adjustment, etc.), the 2000M will perform almost twice as fast as the 1000M.  If your editing consists mostly of local changes (cuts, fades, etc.), the difference will be low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="180" RevisionGUID="693cf26a-94c8-4785-885d-16ceb5b0d427" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:11:21.697" UserId="45" Comment="mention dd-wrt support" Text="I recommend the [ASUS RT-AC66U][1]. It's been rated by [SmallNetBuilder][2] to handle 835Mbps download:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ASUS RT-AC66U][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is one of the higher through puts I've seen personally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, it has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 450Mbps wireless speeds on 802.11n&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 1300Mbps wireless speeds on 802.11ac&#xD;&#xA; - Concurrent dual band transmissions so you can get up to 450+1300 for a total of 1.65Gbps wirelessly if you utilize both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz frequencies&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 6 guest networks (3 on the 2.4Ghz band and 3 on the 5Ghz band); Each guest network can be configured to have internet access during certain times, require different passwords from one another, allow/deny access to the internal network&#xD;&#xA; - 4 gigabit ethernet ports&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB ports &#xD;&#xA; - Parental controls&#xD;&#xA; - [Supported by dd-wrt](http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC66U) in case you aren't happy with the stock firmware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I also am very fond of the administration interface. It is &quot;pretty&quot; to look at and doesn't scare a new user, but allows users that know what they are doing the ability to do so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Disclaimer: I am a happy owner of this model router. I do not have gigabit internet, however I have installed two such routers in small businesses that do have gigabit internet. Both businesses have mentioned they are happy with their internet service*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC66U/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31841-asus-rt-ac66u-80211ac-dual-band-wireless-ac1750-gigabit-router-reviewed?limitstart=0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9E7tN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="627" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="180" RevisionGUID="693cf26a-94c8-4785-885d-16ceb5b0d427" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:11:21.697" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 57 edit id of 48" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="6c5420e1-fa80-488e-9886-4f16b9388996" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:13:35.543" UserId="125" Text="What are some good charlieplexing LED matrix boards for the Arduino that use very little pins? Preferrably, 3 or so digital pins would be great. Also, I am looking for a good interface to control the LED matrix." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="629" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="6c5420e1-fa80-488e-9886-4f16b9388996" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:13:35.543" UserId="125" Text="What are good LED arduino boards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="630" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="6c5420e1-fa80-488e-9886-4f16b9388996" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:13:35.543" UserId="125" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="197" RevisionGUID="11d87527-b393-4313-bdd6-dfd328b5dd44" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:17:28.890" UserId="8" Text="Mark's answer covers most of the main points, so I'm going to add this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are different types of GPUs. It's a common misconception that any GPU will work for any graphics intensive task (video editing, gaming, etc) - not so. The M series GPUs in your question are more geared to be *editing* GPUs - their optimization was mainly focused on calculations relating to video and graphics editing, rather than more physics-based multiple-step calculations that are used in gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your intended use, there's not a massive amount of difference between the two - if you're editing videos, especially long videos, then the 2kM will perform far better - but if you're only intending on doing basic, occasional editing then the extra $100 isn't worth it. Neither is there a massive difference between the two in gaming performance - if you want a good platform for gaming, you'd be better off looking at a console or gaming-optimized GPU'd PC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="198" RevisionGUID="e3c16336-d7b3-40ea-87aa-46b4ae5398b0" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:21:58.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="199" RevisionGUID="4b58df7d-776f-4c08-b55c-769c30d8de10" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:21:58.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="634" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="b395c962-9ad7-494f-8a20-2419a8d10838" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:23:48.177" UserId="146" Text="I noticed that my mouse sometimes interrupts clicking and holding of the left mouse button, and sometimes sends a double click even if I didn't. Now it's probably the right time to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requierments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - not expensive (max price about 40 to 50€; the less the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be suitable for some occasional gaming (meaning it should be a classical mouse and not a track pad or similar)&#xD;&#xA; - Non-Wireless, because there is no need for position changing (only if it's a really amazing mouse)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some macro buttons would be cool&#xD;&#xA; - Buyable in the EU (living in the EU it's easier in terms of taxes etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="635" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="b395c962-9ad7-494f-8a20-2419a8d10838" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:23:48.177" UserId="146" Text="Good and inexpensive mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="636" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="b395c962-9ad7-494f-8a20-2419a8d10838" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:23:48.177" UserId="146" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="637" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="201" RevisionGUID="8f90bff7-0eff-4836-bcc9-3905341358f8" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:35:20.840" UserId="8" Text="I use the [HP BR376AA 5-Button Optical Comfort Mouse][1]. Which is a bit of a mouthful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's £13.20 (17,97€, $20.36)&#xD;&#xA;- It's high-precision, works very well for gaming (I use it to play games quite a lot)&#xD;&#xA;- Wired&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It has 2 side buttons which are normally mapped to browser back/forward. You might be able to assign macros to them - I haven't researched this, but it seems viable.&#xD;&#xA;- I got mine in the UK which is (sort of) in the EU. It's probably purchasable in mainland Europe, too.&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Comfort&quot; in HP speak means ergonomic. It's very nice to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://store.hp.com/UKStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=BR376AA&amp;opt=ABB&amp;sel=ACC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="638" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="35acd469-5133-45c3-a732-e8a75ea96cec" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:44:52.607" UserId="106" Text="I want to buy a gaming PC to place next to my TV. To give it the best air intake, and given the (little) space available in the room I have decided to buy a case that I can place vertically.  &#xD;&#xA;Ideally its width would be under 14cm (5.5in). I don't have restriction on height, and depth should be under 50cm (~19in).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Is there a common name used for that type of cases that I can search for ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="639" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="35acd469-5133-45c3-a732-e8a75ea96cec" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:44:52.607" UserId="106" Text="Recommendation/categorization for &quot;thin tower PC cases&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="640" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="35acd469-5133-45c3-a732-e8a75ea96cec" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:44:52.607" UserId="106" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;type&gt;&lt;name&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="912d45ec-8a6e-40e4-9c86-fd71ce0ec727" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:56:55.980" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="I'm looking for a High power Wireless network adapter like Alfa products but more powerful. `alfa-awus036h` Is said to be the most powerful one though its `TX` power is a little less than Alfa's latest wireless network adapters. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a Wireless network adapter that has output `TX` power of 3W or more and uses USB ports for connection. I'm going to use it on an omni-directional 10W antenna and to offset the signal loss due to the length of the cable I need a powerful adapter. I don't want to use Wireless amplifiers so the adapter itself should generate the 3W or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found some 3 or 4 Watt Wireless access points from brands like MikroTik but they use Ethernet cables instead of USB and they operate as a totally different network device and they can't be controlled directly using a computer so they have many limitations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="644" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="912d45ec-8a6e-40e4-9c86-fd71ce0ec727" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:56:55.980" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="High power Wireless network adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="645" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="912d45ec-8a6e-40e4-9c86-fd71ce0ec727" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:56:55.980" UserDisplayName="user137" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="646" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="8a2b1b07-2250-42df-b177-4ceef511bc66" CreationDate="2015-09-12T20:59:48.037" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="35ee1595-6019-4f4f-9481-31821386f67a" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:19:56.360" UserId="146" Comment="additional info" Text="I noticed that my mouse sometimes interrupts clicking and holding of the left mouse button, and sometimes sends a double click even if I didn't. Now it's probably the right time to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requierments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - not expensive (max price about 40 to 50€; the less the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be suitable for some occasional gaming (meaning it should be a classical mouse and not a track pad or similar)&#xD;&#xA; - Non-Wireless, because there is no need for position changing (only if it's a really amazing mouse)&#xD;&#xA; - A mouse that is able to operate on a plastic mouse pad (preferable) or a wooden table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some macro buttons would be cool&#xD;&#xA; - Buyable in the EU (living in the EU it's easier in terms of taxes etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I use my mouse with the right hand&#xD;&#xA; - As long as it is not a mouse with a ball for the positioning (like in old mouses) I don't care about optical, laser etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="204" RevisionGUID="f9cd2463-8c8e-4ffe-826b-c1e784af206a" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:38:07.750" UserId="150" Text="I'm interested in creating a video for my cross country team, including several shots while I or another runner am/is in motion. My teammates and I quickly thought of a GoPro camera, but most are extremely expensive compared to our price range (we'd like to stay under $50).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good camera for us?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications we'd like to see:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The camera should be mountable either on a lightweight hat or strapped around the upper chest of a runner&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be under $50&#xD;&#xA; - The camera mounting system must be able to survive leaps, jumps, turns, etc. The runner with the camera may reach speeds of up to 12 miles per hour while running on trails with hilly terrain, so jostling will be an issue.&#xD;&#xA; - A weight under half a pound&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA; - A 180 degree viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - A battery life of four hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're willing to sacrifice one of the latter three if necessary, but the top two are non-negotiable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="649" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="204" RevisionGUID="f9cd2463-8c8e-4ffe-826b-c1e784af206a" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:38:07.750" UserId="150" Text="What's a good video camera to use while running?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="650" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="204" RevisionGUID="f9cd2463-8c8e-4ffe-826b-c1e784af206a" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:38:07.750" UserId="150" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="651" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="76a8db23-bf52-4b18-9ec4-8ea406d87b2e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:54:38.263" UserId="146" Comment="corrected spelling" Text="I personally ordered the OnePlus Two but to be honest i would go for the ASUS Zenfone 2(version: ZE551ML, thats important!) if you can live with some bloatware(not that much) beacause:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - it costs **300-350€/211-255£** and its sold on amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA; - it has **4 GB RAM** thats plenty of RAM for gaming&#xD;&#xA; - the processor(Intel Atom Z3580) is **quad-core** clocked at **2.3 GHz** and it seems to have no/less heating issues than the Snapdragon 810 (e.g. used in the OnePlus 2) &#xD;&#xA; - its a **5.5&quot;** phone with a **1080p/Full-HD** resolution, so it fits in your pocket and offers **401ppi**&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **13MP** rear camera(with dual tone flash, autofocus, HDR) and a **5MP** front facing camera and both do their job; compare it here: http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?idType=1&amp;idPhone1=6917&amp;idPhone2=7247&amp;idPhone3=6902). But it can only record videos in 1080p @ 30fps&#xD;&#xA; - according to Gsmarena it can create **hotspots**&#xD;&#xA; - it can be ordered with **16/32/64GB** internal storage and you can add up to an **extra 64GB with a microSD** card&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **3000mAh** battery combined with the fact that it's no QHD resolution it should should be plenty of battery life so you'll most likely get through the day without recharging&#xD;&#xA; - some nice extras are **FM radio** with RDS, **fast charging**(60% in 40mins according to Asus) and **Corning Gorilla Glass 3** for the protection&#xD;&#xA; - runs Android Lolipop with Asus ZenUi on top (some bloatware preinstalled but not much and i think you'll be able to uninstall most of it)&#xD;&#xA; - supports many carriers but you should check here http://www.willmyphonework.net/ if it supports your carrier, I'll assume you come from GB so the global/international version will most likely be the one that works&#xD;&#xA; - full specsheet: http://www.gsmarena.com/asus_zenfone_2_ze551ml-6917.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** &#xD;&#xA;So a great phone for a low price tag and you can buy it quick and easy unlocked on Amazon. Some more expensive phones maybe offer a fingerprint scanner or QHD or wireless charging but they are not on your criteria list and are just some extras that sometimes even come with a disadvantage(e.g. QHD-&gt; higher resolution but drains more battery and needs a better GPU then a FullHD screen for the same gaming power)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;Some other phones that you can look at too are the OnePlus Two and the upcoming Nexus 5x. Some will suggest the Moto X Style/Pure beacause it can be compared to the OP2 or Zenfone 2 spec-wise and cost around the same as the OP2(both around 400€) in the US but in Germany(most likely in the UK too) the Moto X Style/Pure costs around 600€ and the lower speced Moto X Play cost 400€ here. So I would neither recommend any of the Moto X phones nor the OnePlus 2 beacause its hard to get(invite system), has some problems and nobody knows when they'll release updates for it and also no NFC if you need that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And just one general thing: Watch/read a few reviews by yourself before buying the phone you want beacause they include some more infos that might be interesting or deal breaking but aren't mentioned here!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="652" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="76a8db23-bf52-4b18-9ec4-8ea406d87b2e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:54:38.263" Comment="Proposed by 146 approved by -1 edit id of 50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="19af6dd0-1388-4c0d-9229-37ed25dd99f9" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:54:38.263" UserId="8" Comment="corrected spelling - szoszk's edit, &quot;improved&quot; to insta-approve." Text="I personally ordered the OnePlus Two but to be honest i would go for the ASUS Zenfone 2(version: ZE551ML, that's important!) if you can live with some bloatware(not that much) beacause:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - it costs **300-350€/211-255£** and its sold on amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA; - it has **4 GB RAM** thats plenty of RAM for gaming&#xD;&#xA; - the processor(Intel Atom Z3580) is **quad-core** clocked at **2.3 GHz** and it seems to have no/less heating issues than the Snapdragon 810 (e.g. used in the OnePlus 2) &#xD;&#xA; - its a **5.5&quot;** phone with a **1080p/Full-HD** resolution, so it fits in your pocket and offers **401ppi**&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **13MP** rear camera(with dual tone flash, autofocus, HDR) and a **5MP** front facing camera and both do their job; compare it here: http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?idType=1&amp;idPhone1=6917&amp;idPhone2=7247&amp;idPhone3=6902). But it can only record videos in 1080p @ 30fps&#xD;&#xA; - according to Gsmarena it can create **hotspots**&#xD;&#xA; - it can be ordered with **16/32/64GB** internal storage and you can add up to an **extra 64GB with a microSD** card&#xD;&#xA; - it has a **3000mAh** battery combined with the fact that it's no QHD resolution it should should be plenty of battery life so you'll most likely get through the day without recharging&#xD;&#xA; - some nice extras are **FM radio** with RDS, **fast charging**(60% in 40mins according to Asus) and **Corning Gorilla Glass 3** for the protection&#xD;&#xA; - runs Android Lolipop with Asus ZenUi on top (some bloatware preinstalled but not much and i think you'll be able to uninstall most of it)&#xD;&#xA; - supports many carriers but you should check here http://www.willmyphonework.net/ if it supports your carrier, I'll assume you come from GB so the global/international version will most likely be the one that works&#xD;&#xA; - full specsheet: http://www.gsmarena.com/asus_zenfone_2_ze551ml-6917.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** &#xD;&#xA;So a great phone for a low price tag and you can buy it quick and easy unlocked on Amazon. Some more expensive phones maybe offer a fingerprint scanner or QHD or wireless charging but they are not on your criteria list and are just some extras that sometimes even come with a disadvantage(e.g. QHD-&gt; higher resolution but drains more battery and needs a better GPU then a FullHD screen for the same gaming power)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;Some other phones that you can look at too are the OnePlus Two and the upcoming Nexus 5x. Some will suggest the Moto X Style/Pure beacause it can be compared to the OP2 or Zenfone 2 spec-wise and cost around the same as the OP2(both around 400€) in the US but in Germany(most likely in the UK too) the Moto X Style/Pure costs around 600€ and the lower speced Moto X Play cost 400€ here. So I would neither recommend any of the Moto X phones nor the OnePlus 2 beacause its hard to get(invite system), has some problems and nobody knows when they'll release updates for it and also no NFC if you need that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And just one general thing: Watch/read a few reviews by yourself before buying the phone you want beacause they include some more infos that might be interesting or deal breaking but aren't mentioned here!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="205" RevisionGUID="40c63d3a-9302-4115-a17b-b2c4a1ea878e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:41:00.620" UserId="57" Text="I am looking to replace an ASUS Transformer (TF101). I like the 10.1&quot; form factor as I use it for watching videos more than I use it as an eReader. One of the features I liked about the Transformer was that I could install Cyanogenmod on it as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to upgrade to something more modern. The Transformer has not received a Cyanogenmod update since version 10. It hasn't received an official Android update since before that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I have in looking for a replacement is that tablets that support the new versions of Android out of the box are smaller form factors (7-9&quot;). The 10 inch ones all seem to be on KitKat or Ice Cream (Android 4.x) versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supports Lollipop or Marshmellow (Android 5.0 through 5.2)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports Cyanogenmod 12.1 or higher&#xD;&#xA; - Has decent speakers is a must - I want to be able to set the tablet upright on a table about 3 feet in front of me and hear the sound (the TF101 did not meet this requirement)&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1&quot; form factor&#xD;&#xA; - A microSD slot would be a very nice to have&#xD;&#xA; - A keyboard accessory is optional&#xD;&#xA; - A semi-sturdy case that allows me to prop the tablet up should exist for the recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price range is roughly $500-600, but if such a tablet doesn't exist in that price range, I'm open to something a bit more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="205" RevisionGUID="40c63d3a-9302-4115-a17b-b2c4a1ea878e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:41:00.620" UserId="57" Text="Android 10.1&quot; tablet that supports Android 5.1 (or Cyanogenmod 12.1) or higher" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="205" RevisionGUID="40c63d3a-9302-4115-a17b-b2c4a1ea878e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:41:00.620" UserId="57" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="204" RevisionGUID="0547cc03-2e01-4d8d-99bb-7292bdf56946" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:45:11.557" UserId="150" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="I'm interested in creating a video for my cross country team, including several shots while I or another runner am/is in motion. My teammates and I quickly thought of a GoPro camera, but most are extremely expensive compared to our price range (we'd like to stay under &lt;strike&gt;$50&lt;/strike&gt; $75).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good camera for us?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications we'd like to see:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The camera should be mountable either on a lightweight hat or strapped around the upper chest of a runner&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be under &lt;strike&gt;$50&lt;/strike&gt; $75&#xD;&#xA; - The camera mounting system must be able to survive leaps, jumps, turns, etc. The runner with the camera may reach speeds of up to 12 miles per hour while running on trails with hilly terrain, so jostling will be an issue.&#xD;&#xA; - A weight under half a pound&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA; - A 180 degree viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - A battery life of four hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're willing to sacrifice one of the latter three if necessary, but the top two are non-negotiable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="206" RevisionGUID="350060f8-7a6c-481c-b39e-ae680a8e18f5" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:45:14.677" UserId="241" Text="If you're not planning to add more than one expansion card (say, a TV tuner card) to your system, a **mini-ITX** board in a **low profile** or **home theater** case fits your needs.  If you want two to four cards (tuner card, dedicated graphics card, dedicated network card, etc), a **microATX** board in a low profile case will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that a low-profile case uses narrow &quot;low-profile&quot; expansion cards with a special bracket; normal expansion cards won't fit.  Most home theater cases have a right-angle riser that lets you use a standard expansion card.  In both situations, you may need a power supply sized for the case rather than a standard ATX power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many smaller cases have bays for laptop (2.5&quot;) hard drives and slimline laptop optical drives instead of desktop-sized drives, so make sure you check this when selecting your parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In theory, you could fit a full-sized **ATX** board in the available space, but the logistics of placing the power supply, cooling system, expansion cards, etc. means you probably won't be able to find a case that can do the job." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="a6ed0236-5459-46a3-8099-e9698af8b57e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T23:27:05.937" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title, &quot;little&quot; -&gt; &quot;few&quot; to decrease confusion" Text="What are some good charlieplexing LED matrix boards for the Arduino that use very few pins? About 3 digital pins would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I am looking for a good interface to control the LED matrix." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="661" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="a6ed0236-5459-46a3-8099-e9698af8b57e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T23:27:05.937" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title, &quot;little&quot; -&gt; &quot;few&quot; to decrease confusion" Text="What are good LED boards for an Arduino?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="662" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="196" RevisionGUID="a6ed0236-5459-46a3-8099-e9698af8b57e" CreationDate="2015-09-12T23:27:05.937" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 125 edit id of 51" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="194" RevisionGUID="1630f37c-e697-4f89-882a-4141be8aeb6f" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:13:16.897" UserId="54" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Is it worth to buy Thinkpad **W520** with NVIDIA Quadro 2000M?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only difference is connected with the number of CUDA cores and Max Power Consumption. The same Thinkpad with 2000M is at least **$100** more expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NVIDIA Quadro 2000M**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 192 Cuda Cores &#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 55W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NVIDIA Quadro 1000M**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 96 Cuda Cores&#xD;&#xA; - Max Power Consumption 45W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How will I use it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Programming&#xD;&#xA; - Editing raster graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Occasional gaming (not necessarily new games)&#xD;&#xA; - Basic video editing (mostly short videos)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="207" RevisionGUID="801cb74e-b10d-488e-84da-b4ee2ead661b" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:25:24.240" UserId="275" Text="I'm quite a clumsy person and so for me phone durability is one the most important aspects for choosing a phone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Functionally the phone should be a standard high-end phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Decent photos&#xD;&#xA;- Responsive apps&#xD;&#xA;- Reasonably sized (not tiny, doesn't need to be iPhone6/Galaxy Note sized). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Life events it should resist are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dropping on the floor&#xD;&#xA;- Banging the headphone and other cables while they're plugged in. &#xD;&#xA;- Spilling water/drinks on it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="207" RevisionGUID="801cb74e-b10d-488e-84da-b4ee2ead661b" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:25:24.240" UserId="275" Text="What's a good life-proof Android phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="207" RevisionGUID="801cb74e-b10d-488e-84da-b4ee2ead661b" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:25:24.240" UserId="275" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="301af46f-e0a9-48a1-bb77-969b305a27c2" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:31:24.730" UserId="211" Comment="Added an example recommendation" Text="In my case I have been using Raid 1 Mirroring with two disks on an onboard controller of a motherboard that recently dropped dead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm looking for a replacement motherboard, but I'm a bit worried about the data on the disks which I really want to recover. Since it was mirroring I half expect any SATA controller to just recognize the partitions and work automatically, but on the other half I guess it might not work that way. I don't have a 2nd system on which I can quickly test this and besides I'm concerned that it could be potentially dangerous to just plug it into any system. Some BIOS might just try to automatically initialize it and destroy some data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just go ahead and purchase a new board without worries or should I figure out exactly what make / type and version of controller the board was using and try to find a new board with the same make / type / version RAID controller?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record, my particular motherboard was a dual Xeon Tyan S2696. It was rendering some footage overnight and in the morning I found it dead. It does not even beep anymore, no fans, no leds, when powered on. The USB ports do get powered with 5V but it looks like there's a swollen capacitor between two PCI-x slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;For example, if I purchase a [SuperMicro X7DB8+][1] as a replacement for the [Tyan S2696][2], would I be able to hook up the old drives and read from them? They both use the Intel ESB2 Chipset, though I don't see and mention of &quot;zero channel RAID&quot; in the Tyan manual. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon1333/5000P/X7DB8_.cfm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tyan.com/archive/products/html/tempesti5000xt.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="208" RevisionGUID="3eef27b8-8480-4994-b453-764951fb2ea3" CreationDate="2015-09-13T02:57:01.543" UserId="205" Text="The upcoming Moto X Force is the phone that sound like the perfect fit(its not revealed or released yet!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Watch out! These are just leaks and rumors so nothing final yet!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High-end specs(5.42&quot; QHD, Snapdragon 810 with 3GB RAM, fast charging etc.)&#xD;&#xA; -  IP68 certified - dust and water resistant up to 1.5 meter and 30 minutes&#xD;&#xA; - MIL-STD-810G certified - salt, dust, humidity, rain, vibration, solar radiation, transport and thermal shock resistant&#xD;&#xA; - Corning Gorilla Glass 4&#xD;&#xA; - 21MP rear camera with phase detection autofocus and 4k@30fps video recording&#xD;&#xA; - 3760 mAh battery&#xD;&#xA; - rumored release outside of the US in december and most likely sold in the US as the DROID Turbo 2 and exclusive for Verizon&#xD;&#xA; - here are some links http://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_x_force-7555.php and https://www.androidpit.com/motorola-moto-x-force-price-release-date-specs-features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can wait and you'r willing to spend around 560€ that phone will be great for you! &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="209" RevisionGUID="c5145cec-f189-4ce9-97f2-d331dc45f8f0" CreationDate="2015-09-13T03:09:17.497" UserId="205" Text="Try some mice out at a local store, thats the best way to see if they fit in your hand and feel good and ergonomic for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And a real ergonomic mouse to prevent tennis elbow is something like this: [CSL - TM137U optical sensor][1] but i don't know if you want to use one of this kind. I think it would take some time to get used to it but health wise this shape is the best choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/CSL-Ausf%C3%BChrung-ergonomisches-Vorbeugung-armschonend/dp/B00HNAQA72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442113401&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=maus%20ergonomisch/ " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="210" RevisionGUID="dbaa73c6-abc7-4fcf-b679-694beb03122e" CreationDate="2015-09-13T03:53:24.673" UserId="164" Text="The Samsung Galaxy S 6 Active is essentially a rugged version of the Samsung Galaxy 6 with a better battery, so I think that would be well suited to your needs. A review of the S6 Active is [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that is above your price range, apparently CAT makes phones now: http://www.catphones.com/ The S50 actually seems like a decent phone at a reasonable price, so you should check that out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm30TSUY2nI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, you could buy an Otterbox for a hone and though it would be clunky, it would be able to withstand pretty much anything. I also have heard that Griffin makes very high quality phones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="211" RevisionGUID="720beb6d-9040-4ccf-a200-4b54927198cc" CreationDate="2015-09-13T04:02:23.463" UserId="164" Text="The Fractal Design Node 202 is a very small form factor PC case (console size), with support for a full size graphics card. A link to the fractal design page for all their node series cases is [here][1], and I suggest you check them out. It will come out soon and uses mini-ITX boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, the Cooler Master Obsidian series has some very small form factor cases that would be a good fit for a home theater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone also makes some very small form factor mini-ITX cases. A link to the Amazon page for the Silverstone Raven Z is [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Mini-ITX-Computer-RVZ01B/dp/B00I3EKXDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442116811&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=node%20202" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="210" RevisionGUID="6c30fd54-45f3-40ab-bb9a-5010b0704bdb" CreationDate="2015-09-13T04:06:43.220" UserId="164" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="The Samsung Galaxy S 6 Active is essentially a rugged version of the Samsung Galaxy 6 with a better battery, so I think that would be well suited to your needs. A review of the S6 Active is [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that is above your price range, apparently CAT makes phones now: http://www.catphones.com/ The S50 actually seems like a decent phone at a reasonable price, so you should check that out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm30TSUY2nI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, you could buy an Otterbox for a common phone and though it would be clunky, it would be able to withstand pretty much anything. I also have heard that Griffin makes very high quality phone cases." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="212" RevisionGUID="38347261-ad08-4301-a7ed-701490a93a4a" CreationDate="2015-09-13T04:32:34.517" UserId="155" Text="Assuming your plastic mouse pad is a good, solid color, the [Logitech M500](http://www.newegg.com/global/nl/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104328) (€27) is a fantastic laser mouse for the price. It's built for everyday use but can withstand occasional gaming. It's wired, ergonomically right-handed, has side macros, and 1000 DPI (which is more than enough for gaming).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing you should take caution to is the track type. For your purposes, laser mice are better since you have hard surfaces. Optical mice work well with soft surfaces." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="213" RevisionGUID="1e9af726-4841-4541-95ba-253ce724984d" CreationDate="2015-09-13T05:04:50.543" UserId="278" Text="I use the Etekcity Scroll X1. It costs $15. It has 4 extra buttons (2 Side Buttons and 2 more behind the mouse wheel) It fits perfectly in my hand (I use the fingertip grip, i.e. I only touch the mouse with the tips of my fingers and the bottom of the palm of my hand) It includes drivers, and it's very cheap. It is 2400 DPI, but for 18 dollars you can get a 4000 DPI Model and $26 will buy you a 8200 DPI Mouse -- Which is just insane. You can see more info and buy it [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3L19KQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="675" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="214" RevisionGUID="608f8e82-6ace-4046-a967-3f994601c654" CreationDate="2015-09-13T06:21:16.790" UserId="111" Text="I recently had the same problem and in the end went for the [Soundsticks III from Harman Kardon](http://m.harmankardon.com/computer-speakers/SOUNDSTICKS+III.html). They look and sound beautiful. Sub is on feet though, but gives a really tight sound.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got mine for €100 (around $120). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="676" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="215" RevisionGUID="d699918d-5935-4d06-926d-b189dfd75efe" CreationDate="2015-09-13T07:01:42.817" UserId="241" Text="The only Mini-ITX board I've been able to find with a PCIe x4 slot is the [Mitac PH12LI][1].  It is not, however, any smaller than any of the PCIe x16 Mini-ITX boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I'd recommend a [Casetronic C292][2] case, an [over-the-board PCIe x16 riser card][3], and the PCIe x16 Mini-ITX board of your choice.  Your x4 card should work just fine in an x16 slot, and you won't need to go looking for parts that probably don't exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(No association with LogicSupply, they're just my go-to source for looking up all things Mini-ITX.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logicsupply.com/ph12li/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.logicsupply.com/c292/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.logicsupply.com/pciex16-c292/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="216" RevisionGUID="bb7d6cb4-aee5-4acd-a915-72c8f2acaf28" CreationDate="2015-09-13T07:31:36.557" UserDisplayName="user281" Text="I had good experience with &quot;gaming&quot; mouse from Logitech. Current corded lineup seems pretty narrow, MX500 appears to correspond to what I had.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: it's quite wide which is good for hands; Cons: paying $30 for a mouse nowadays seems excessive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I once bought a Microsoft mouse for a friend of mine who did computer graphics, which is just as demanding as gaming. Surprisingly Microsoft makes (or buys OEM) very good peripherals! 4500 (wired) and 900 (wireless) seem like decent models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also consider low-end Razer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please visit a real brick and mortar store and at least try holding a mouse before you buy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="679" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="d6c76b0d-ad79-4a05-9b14-f91456be47da" CreationDate="2015-09-13T09:14:22.537" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="I want to buy a gaming PC to place next to my TV. To give it the best air intake, and given the (little) space available in the room I have decided to buy a case that I can place vertically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, its width would be under 14cm (5.5in). I don't have a restriction on height, and the depth should be under 50cm (~19in).&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Is there a common name used for this type of case?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="680" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="d6c76b0d-ad79-4a05-9b14-f91456be47da" CreationDate="2015-09-13T09:14:22.537" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 52" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="683" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="65" RevisionGUID="13ef2231-db39-4a04-a383-035f21e8499e" CreationDate="2015-09-13T10:00:17.757" UserId="8" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I am using a [Raspberry Pi][1] for this purpose (not really web hosting, but I used it just for testing, and it works fine). It's a pretty good solution, because you can make more out of it than just a NAS with web server if you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your purpose I would recommend the Raspberry Pi 2 since it has better performance and probably should handle your amount of users easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also keep in mind, that your website's performance is affected by your connection speed (up and download), and you need some basic Linux skills for setting it up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also other barebones systems that could be good, but I don't have experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="346fe110-a9c7-4c08-b036-8bf5320b4f84" CreationDate="2015-09-13T10:22:06.433" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="We develop cost effective hospital information systems for rural India which runs as a web application. To make the overall cost of ownership low, we use Ubuntu as the server and  client OS. To drive the cost further down, I would like to move away from entry level PCs as client devices to thin clients running Ubuntu (or other free Linux variants).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - With  popular browser (firefox or chrome) support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - standard Monitor with minimum 1280 X 720  pixel Resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 to 4 USB ports to connect any printer, keyboard, mice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supporting latest Ubuntu LTS version (Ubuntu 14.04)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No separate commercial software requirement. Free/Open Source software like Linux Terminal Server are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - One 10/100/1000 Mbps ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; What would be options I can look at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="685" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="346fe110-a9c7-4c08-b036-8bf5320b4f84" CreationDate="2015-09-13T10:22:06.433" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 8, 174 edit id of 42" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="217" RevisionGUID="92d22b13-1958-4690-966a-c01349270651" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:21:02.103" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for indoor camera (a room) with motion detection feature which can send me reliable videos to my e-mail once movement has been detected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware there are plenty out there, but after I've already tested few of them, none of them actually worked as expected (e.g. Linksys and few other), so I believe this is actually hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had one WiFi camera which was sending 5s videos with motion via wireless router to my e-mail and FTP account, but the problem was that in all recored videos I could see only the light/contrast changes (especially in the mornings also when getting dark in evenings and sometimes some lights reflecting on the wall from the windows) ending up with hundreds useless video files. I understand there are some options to specify the spot area or sensitivity and I tried to play around with them, but it didn't work, so I believe it just need a better hardware to work properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- wireless option,&#xD;&#xA;- web interface,&#xD;&#xA;- ability to send e-mails or upload files into FTP,&#xD;&#xA;- reliable IR motion detection (should ignore contrast changes),&#xD;&#xA;- record videos with detected motion of at least 5 seconds in length,&#xD;&#xA;- Infrared night vision would be an advantage&#xD;&#xA;- smart phone app integration would be an advantage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="217" RevisionGUID="92d22b13-1958-4690-966a-c01349270651" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:21:02.103" UserId="15" Text="Motion detection home monitoring camera to send videos to my e-mail while on holiday" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="217" RevisionGUID="92d22b13-1958-4690-966a-c01349270651" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:21:02.103" UserId="15" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="218" RevisionGUID="05b59f23-380f-4be1-8cfd-f07437182f16" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:34:51.037" UserId="8" Text="D-Link's [wi-fi cameras][1] provide the sort of thing you're looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a number of models, and which one you need depends entirely on your use-case so I won't recommend one, but the page I linked above gives an overview of all the types.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They're wifi cameras, which is definitely wireless&#xD;&#xA;- There's an interface (not sure if web or not, but probably given their wifi nature)&#xD;&#xA;- Sends emails for movement alerts, including the relevant files&#xD;&#xA;- Good motion detection (contrast changes don't register - it's actually looking for *movement*, not light levels)&#xD;&#xA;- Records videos of motion (not sure of length, but probably at least 5 seconds). You can also connect a central hard drive to stream or record footage of longer periods - say a day, which you could review the footage of when you get home.&#xD;&#xA;- All models have night vision, though the range varies from 15ft-26ft between models&#xD;&#xA;- Has an Android and iPhone app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, sounds perfect for what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://us.dlink.com/home-solutions/wifi-camera/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="b10a686e-350b-405a-bc05-28fbfb31792c" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:15.867" UserId="57" Text="I rent serveral virtual private servers to run Team Fortress 2 servers. These servers all run SourceMod (an administration and plugin framework). Individual servers then run various SourceMod plugins to make the gaming experience unique.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to consolidate all of these into a server dedicated server, which I'd also use to run the MySQL database that our web page uses and a web server to host our forums. These forums receive a modest amount of traffic daily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to host 10-14 Team Fortress 2 server instances without causing lag to the players. Each server will host 24 players and approximately half of the servers will be near capacity 24 hours a day (based on current traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle MySQL database traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle web traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Price range: $100 - $125 a month &#xD;&#xA; - Must be on a 100 Mbit line&#xD;&#xA; - Most players are North American and European. I'd like a hosting location that serves both of these locations and keeps the lag low.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;What type of server will be able to handle all of these requirements and where could it be hosted?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="b10a686e-350b-405a-bc05-28fbfb31792c" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:15.867" UserId="57" Text="Dedicated server that can run multiple Team Fortress 2 servers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="b10a686e-350b-405a-bc05-28fbfb31792c" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:15.867" UserId="57" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;dedicated-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="ff97664f-d1dd-4bd7-a5a3-ed91f7507fcc" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:38.777" UserId="15" Text="I am looking for pocket-size scanner to scan the receipts. By receipts I mean these which are printed on thermal paper rolls on point-of-sale places.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you can use smart phone plus some apps, but here are the main disadvantages which I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- some point-of-sale receipts are too long to scan,&#xD;&#xA;- it's difficult to find the right angle (especially when you're in the movement whole day),&#xD;&#xA;- it takes too much time of readjusting the camera to not crop anything,&#xD;&#xA;- default lossy compression format (designed for pictures) gives later trouble for OCR,&#xD;&#xA;- scanned receipts are crooked and creased (not flatten),&#xD;&#xA;- at the end of the day it's difficult to separate receipts from the pictures (I know there are some useful apps for that such as [Expensify][1] or [Evernote][2], but they're too slow for me, plus what was already said above),&#xD;&#xA;- and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I am looking for a device which is specially designed for that job to make it this task very simple. Especially on the move, so I could throw away the receipt after successful scan. Otherwise text printed on thermodynamic paper is very unstable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.expensify.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://evernote.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="694" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="ff97664f-d1dd-4bd7-a5a3-ed91f7507fcc" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:38.777" UserId="15" Text="Small pocket-sized receipt scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="695" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="ff97664f-d1dd-4bd7-a5a3-ed91f7507fcc" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:29:38.777" UserId="15" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="221" RevisionGUID="0dcae891-cba1-45f2-ba44-21fe74216320" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:40:06.173" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for portable micro PC (uPC) on a stick (something like Raspberry Pi), but a lot smaller (a USB thumb drive size).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any architecture is great (ARM is fine), as long as you can install Linux on it (so some storage is a must). Support for Wi-Fi is an advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is which I've found so far: [Forget Raspberry PI How About Android on a Stick!][1], but the article is a bit out-dated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gizchina.com/2012/03/14/buy-android-raspberry-pi-china/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="221" RevisionGUID="0dcae891-cba1-45f2-ba44-21fe74216320" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:40:06.173" UserId="15" Text="Portable micro PC computer on USB stick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="221" RevisionGUID="0dcae891-cba1-45f2-ba44-21fe74216320" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:40:06.173" UserId="15" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;gadgets&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="702" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="223" RevisionGUID="7caa6486-6b1c-42c6-9224-9f15cffe65d4" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:49:14.873" UserId="162" Text="I, and my son, both have Samsung Galaxy S4 Active and its survived all the things you were wondering about. You can get them at a very reasonable price on the worlds largest online vendor but make sure you get one that is compatible with your phone provider. You probably don't need the extra features that come with the S6 and if you manage to destroy a $200 device its a lot less painful then losing $700." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="224" RevisionGUID="aade478d-241b-4e9e-8d2b-3e9d43104163" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:17:16.963" UserId="15" Text="I am looking for mini PC with fairly similar in size (~5x20x20cm) which can [outperform][1] a [Mini Mac][2]. The size doesn't matter as long it's not too heavy or big and it can be easily moved between home and work on daily basis in a bag and it's easily to use (simple design with not too many cables).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be less expensive, but my focus is overall performance power to do LAMP development work. Currently I'm using Retina MacBook Pro which basically crashes quite often when too much stuff is run at the same time. So I'm basically checking what are the alternatives on the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically it should meet the basic criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU clock: at least 2.0GHz per core (dual/quad-core minimum),&#xD;&#xA;- storage support for at least 1TB (unless it's SSD),&#xD;&#xA;- memory at least 8GB RAM DDR3,&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI or similar to connect at least 2 external monitors,&#xD;&#xA;- HD Graphics: not important as far it doesn't run slow while playing some videos,&#xD;&#xA;- standard features: Wi-Fi, USB, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found so far [Intel NUC Barebones Mini PC][3], but it has only 1.3GHz per core (dual-core) as most of the mini PC which I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any Mini PC monsters on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://browser.primatelabs.com/mac-benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.apple.com/uk/mac-mini/specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/intel-intel-nuc-barebones-mini-pc-intel-core-i5-4250u-d54250wyk/10326611.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="224" RevisionGUID="aade478d-241b-4e9e-8d2b-3e9d43104163" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:17:16.963" UserId="15" Text="Mini PC with dual/quad-core CPU as Mac mini alternative" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="224" RevisionGUID="aade478d-241b-4e9e-8d2b-3e9d43104163" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:17:16.963" UserId="15" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="706" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="511ad029-7b4a-4431-a126-28a56b9db824" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:21:37.223" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:24,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;peterh&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:281,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;qarma&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="707" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="77b17873-1712-42ec-a021-6c023ad64492" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:21:56.773" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:150,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;HDE 226868&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="225" RevisionGUID="1a804ef9-a7b9-40d8-975c-2ed8e295d89b" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:14:45.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="226" RevisionGUID="39284f61-c624-49d7-9373-c42dcf3afe7f" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:14:45.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="227" RevisionGUID="b7a41d4b-f161-45e2-9759-c8317021a9d4" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:17:15.043" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="228" RevisionGUID="91cd0e07-0007-45e3-9979-f077db7313d3" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:17:15.043" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="713" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="f3ee1934-b4b0-4090-b2f9-b6b2e374ee80" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:17:45.760" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I rent several virtual private servers to run Team Fortress 2 servers. These servers all run SourceMod (an administration and plugin framework). Individual servers then run various SourceMod plugins to make the gaming experience unique.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to consolidate all of these into a server dedicated server, which I'd also use to run the MySQL database that our web page uses and a web server to host our forums. These forums receive a modest amount of traffic daily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to host 10-14 Team Fortress 2 server instances without causing lag to the players. Each server will host 24 players and approximately half of the servers will be near capacity 24 hours a day (based on current traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle MySQL database traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle web traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Price range: $100 - $125 a month &#xD;&#xA; - Must be on a 100 Mbit line&#xD;&#xA; - Most players are North American and European. I'd like a hosting location that serves both of these locations and keeps the lag low.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;What type of server will be able to handle all of these requirements and where could it be hosted?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="715" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="2fbde9b7-47af-4a52-9749-19c5c8e9c79d" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:52:50.840" UserId="8" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I am looking for pocket-size scanner to scan the receipts. By receipts I mean these which are printed on thermochromic paper rolls on point-of-sale places.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you can use smart phone plus some apps, but here are the main disadvantages which I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- some point-of-sale receipts are too long to scan,&#xD;&#xA;- it's difficult to find the right angle (especially when you're in the movement whole day),&#xD;&#xA;- it takes too much time of readjusting the camera to not crop anything,&#xD;&#xA;- default lossy compression format (designed for pictures) gives later trouble for OCR,&#xD;&#xA;- scanned receipts are crooked and creased (not flatten),&#xD;&#xA;- at the end of the day it's difficult to separate receipts from the pictures (I know there are some useful apps for that such as [Expensify][1] or [Evernote][2], but they're too slow for me, plus what was already said above),&#xD;&#xA;- and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I am looking for a device which is specially designed for that job to make it this task very simple. Especially on the move, so I could throw away the receipt after successful scan. Otherwise text printed on thermochromic paper is very unstable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.expensify.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://evernote.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="e6769656-f190-4af2-9fe9-5de2cc3716ca" CreationDate="2015-09-13T16:48:16.523" UserId="15" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I am looking for pocket-size scanner to scan the receipts. By receipts I mean these which are printed on thermochromic paper rolls on point-of-sale places.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you can use smart phone plus some apps, but here are the main disadvantages which I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- some point-of-sale receipts are too long to take a picture of it,&#xD;&#xA;- it's difficult to find the right angle (especially when you're on the go whole day),&#xD;&#xA;- it takes too much time of readjusting the camera to not crop anything,&#xD;&#xA;- default lossy compression format (designed for pictures) gives later trouble for OCR,&#xD;&#xA;- scanned receipts are crooked and creased (not flatten),&#xD;&#xA;- at the end of the day it's difficult to separate receipts from the pictures (I know there are some useful apps for that such as [Expensify][1] or [Evernote][2], but I didn't find them so convenient, plus what was already said above),&#xD;&#xA;- and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I am looking for a device which is specially designed for that job to make it this task very simple. Especially on the move, so I could throw away the receipt after successful scan. Otherwise text printed on thermochromic paper is very unstable and it's easily get lost (especially some small text such as dates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.expensify.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://evernote.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="717" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="66bc1f35-f202-4117-96c2-9e3999c39cbb" CreationDate="2015-09-13T16:54:40.057" UserId="164" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor. It has 32gb of flash storage and though it costs 150$, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one. &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of this. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled and 1gb of ram, and the other has Windows 8.1 installed and has 2gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is a great article][1] about the best HDMI computer sticks, and though it may be biased, I suggest you take a look at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="230" RevisionGUID="610118f3-e3c4-4819-a246-d3078219ea9e" CreationDate="2015-09-13T16:58:01.983" UserId="273" Text="I think the best answer to your question is the [Intel Compute Stick][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your feature requests:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is small-scale being in principle a HMDI stick (~100x27x13mm)&#xD;&#xA; - It has a processor that is good enough ([Atom Z3735F][2])&#xD;&#xA; - It has 8GB (Ubuntu version) or 32GB (Windows version) of memory which is expandable by the MicroSDXC slot&#xD;&#xA; - It has 1GB (ubuntu) or 2GB (windows) RAM&#xD;&#xA; - It has all the usual Wifi standards (802.11b/g/n + Bluetooth 4.0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can wait a few more months / weeks, [a new version was announced at IFA 2015][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www-ssl.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Atom_microprocessors#.22Bay_Trail-T.22_.2822_nm.29_2&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2979198/components-processors/intels-pint-sized-compute-stick-pc-powered-up-with-core-m-processor.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="719" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="c81ea681-b48a-475d-923c-ca1734277ed0" CreationDate="2015-09-13T17:01:05.647" UserId="164" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32gb of flash storage and though it costs 150$, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1gb of ram, and 8gb of on board storage. Yhe other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2gb of ram, and 32gb of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is a great article][1] about the best HDMI computer sticks, and though it may be biased, I suggest you take a look at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="232" RevisionGUID="f89f455b-862b-43bd-a876-859648c1d023" CreationDate="2015-09-13T18:48:14.370" UserId="57" Text="A small business I do work for does a lot of paper shredding. Currently, each employee has their own personal shredder near their desk. The employees and owners have complained that the shredding is time consuming. They need to feed the paper - usually 3-4 sheets at time - into the shredder, wait for it to complete and then repeat. Each time they start shredding, they have a stack of paper much larger than 3-4 sheets, so it takes time for this process to complete.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The owners would like to replace the individual shredders with one or two office shredders. The idea is that users will be able to drop a stack of 100-200 sheets into a feeding tray and the shredder will ingest them automatically. The user will not have to sit and baby sit the machine during a shredding cycle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to handle 100 sheets of paper at a time&#xD;&#xA; - Should have a large enough bin to collect more than one full batch of 100 shredded papers (this way the next user doesn't have to empty the container first)&#xD;&#xA; - Should slice the paper into small diamonds, not single long strands of paper&#xD;&#xA; - Shredder to be able to be fitted with a plastic garbage bag, but also needs to be easily emptied if such a bag isn't fitted&#xD;&#xA; - Should be durable. There will be at least 4,000 sheets of paper shredded per work week" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="727" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="232" RevisionGUID="f89f455b-862b-43bd-a876-859648c1d023" CreationDate="2015-09-13T18:48:14.370" UserId="57" Text="Small business shredder with autofeeding capabilities?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="728" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="232" RevisionGUID="f89f455b-862b-43bd-a876-859648c1d023" CreationDate="2015-09-13T18:48:14.370" UserId="57" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="729" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="c5ca48b3-317a-435d-bd44-395867786663" CreationDate="2015-09-13T19:00:00.150" UserId="57" Comment="Removed second question about where it could be hosted" Text="I rent several virtual private servers to run Team Fortress 2 servers. These servers all run SourceMod (an administration and plugin framework). Individual servers then run various SourceMod plugins to make the gaming experience unique.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to consolidate all of these into a server dedicated server, which I'd also use to run the MySQL database that our web page uses and a web server to host our forums. These forums receive a modest amount of traffic daily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to host 10-14 Team Fortress 2 server instances without causing lag to the players. Each server will host 24 players and approximately half of the servers will be near capacity 24 hours a day (based on current traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle MySQL database traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to handle web traffic&#xD;&#xA; - Price range: $100 - $125 a month &#xD;&#xA; - Must be on a 100 Mbit line&#xD;&#xA; - Most players are North American and European. I'd like a hosting location that serves both of these locations and keeps the lag low.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;What type of server will be able to handle all of these requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="233" RevisionGUID="ec733968-6584-4080-9e09-8afbd17ac1f1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T19:42:15.330" UserId="8" Text="The Rexel [Auto Feed Micro Cut series][1] seems right for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a series of shredders, ranging from the 100M (which takes 100 sheets at 80gsm) up to the 750M (which takes 750 sheets at 80gsm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any of the series can handle 100 sheets&#xD;&#xA;- I can't actually tell how big the bins are relative to the load, but they look big enough to take more than one load&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't cut diamonds, but does cut each sheet into &quot;2000 2 x 15 mm bits&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- You can probably put a bag inside the bin and mount the shredder to keep it in place, if that works for you&#xD;&#xA;- Rexel make good quality stuff; their website doesn't say durability stats but I'd imagine they're pretty high.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.rexeleurope.com/en/gb/5967/auto-feed-micro-cut#.VfXHfPlVikq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="234" RevisionGUID="8e14c3a4-de8d-4f7f-b7c4-5a38c3476387" CreationDate="2015-09-13T20:02:52.720" UserId="57" Text="It's not pocket sized, but it is portable: [NeatReceipts][1]. The scanner is 10.8&quot;W x 1.6&quot;D x 1.3&quot;H and weighs less than a pound, allowing it to scan full sheets of paper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Product image in hands][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other features: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Scans in color, grayscale or black and white&#xD;&#xA; - Optical Character Recognition (OCR) + Intelligent Text Recognition (ITR)&#xD;&#xA; - Can scan 3-4 receipts per minute&#xD;&#xA; - Software runs on OS X and Windows&#xD;&#xA; - Software can send data to Excel, Turbo Tax, Quickbooks, Outlook, and export to JPG format, PDF and more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.neat.com/products/premium-bundles/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KMn5v.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="220" RevisionGUID="2b03215b-3124-4387-81ba-f9c50e805610" CreationDate="2015-09-13T20:35:13.233" UserId="15" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I am looking for pocket-size scanner to scan the receipts. By receipts I mean these which are printed on thermochromic paper rolls on point-of-sale places.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you can use smart phone plus some apps, but here are the main disadvantages which I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- some point-of-sale receipts are too long to take a picture of it,&#xD;&#xA;- it's difficult to find the right angle (especially when you're on the go whole day),&#xD;&#xA;- it takes too much time of readjusting the camera to catch the focus and not to crop anything,&#xD;&#xA;- default lossy compression format (designed for pictures) gives later trouble for OCR,&#xD;&#xA;- scanned receipts are crooked and creased (not flatten),&#xD;&#xA;- at the end of the day it's difficult to separate receipts from the pictures (I know there are some useful apps for that such as [Expensify][1] or [Evernote][2], but I didn't find them so convenient, plus what was already said above),&#xD;&#xA;- and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I am looking for a device which is specially designed for that job to make it this task very simple. Especially on the move, so I could throw away the receipt after successful scan. Otherwise text printed on thermochromic paper is very unstable and it's easily get lost (especially some small text such as dates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.expensify.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://evernote.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="003c8ecb-ba99-4904-b6d4-8b2afee23620" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:12:32.713" UserId="54" Comment="added 93 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Due to the fact that TrueCrypt is [&quot;not secure&quot;][1] I've been looking for some other way to encrypt the data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WARNING: Using TrueCrypt is not secure as it may contain unfixed security issues&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; You should download TrueCrypt only if you are migrating data encrypted&#xD;&#xA;&gt; by TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://truecrypt.sourceforge.net/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you provide some information about pros &amp; cons connected with hardware-based encryption? What if firmware is controlled by a malicious third-party? I'll be glad if could recommend some SSD which covers the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. There is no problem with BIOS compatibility.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The quality of the encryption is similar to the TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Firmware of the drive haven't been compromised." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="736" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="003c8ecb-ba99-4904-b6d4-8b2afee23620" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:12:32.713" UserId="54" Comment="added 93 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;hardware-based&gt;&lt;data-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="235" RevisionGUID="384c5bea-ea0a-4260-bacb-83baa02e879a" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:12:26.123" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a comfortable BCI (brain-computer interface) device to send mouse clicks for prolonged periods of time (i.e. ~all day long). I tried the NeuroSky's MindWave and the Emotiv EPOC neuroheadset, but they both are quite comfortable: wearing them more than one hour is a pain." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="738" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="235" RevisionGUID="384c5bea-ea0a-4260-bacb-83baa02e879a" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:12:26.123" UserId="40" Text="A comfortable BCI device to send mouse clicks all day long" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="739" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="235" RevisionGUID="384c5bea-ea0a-4260-bacb-83baa02e879a" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:12:26.123" UserId="40" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;brain-computer-interface&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="236" RevisionGUID="ed181d2c-7c3a-45ac-9c8a-e991e4cdecc9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:18:50.597" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for an accurate eye tracker (a.k.a. eye tracking device) to move the mouse cursor supporting multi-monitors (6 to be precise). [Tobii EyeX Controller](http://www.tobii.com/en/eye-experience/) only supports one monitor as far as I know. It should be compatible with Microsoft Windows and if possible Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="741" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="236" RevisionGUID="ed181d2c-7c3a-45ac-9c8a-e991e4cdecc9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:18:50.597" UserId="40" Text="Accurate eye tracker to move the mouse cursor supporting multi-monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="742" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="236" RevisionGUID="ed181d2c-7c3a-45ac-9c8a-e991e4cdecc9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:18:50.597" UserId="40" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;eye-tracker&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="e2b7996b-c9ea-437c-a015-bb99ab0e63dc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:20:42.663" UserId="275" Text="I have a Galaxy Note 4, and sometimes it's nice to be able to do proper typing on it, and saving having to carry a laptop around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a bluetooth keyboard I can carry with me (doesn't have to fit in my pocket, it can stay in my bag). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Responsive keyboard. Ie. soft keys aren't going to suit. &#xD;&#xA;- Full/large sized. I have large hands, and I need to be able to touch type. &#xD;&#xA;-  That said, as small as possible. A standard desktop keyboard sized keyboard isn't going to suit. &#xD;&#xA;- Numpad, F-keys etc, aren't needed. Just letters, number row, shift, space and enter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="744" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="e2b7996b-c9ea-437c-a015-bb99ab0e63dc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:20:42.663" UserId="275" Text="Bluetooth keyboard for smart phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="745" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="e2b7996b-c9ea-437c-a015-bb99ab0e63dc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:20:42.663" UserId="275" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="746" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="235" RevisionGUID="ad4aee1a-9cdf-4930-82d8-f4246b5c23fa" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:21:37.170" UserId="40" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a comfortable BCI (brain-computer interface) device to send mouse clicks for prolonged periods of time (i.e. ~all day long). I tried the NeuroSky's MindWave and the Emotiv EPOC neuroheadset, but they both are quite comfortable: wearing them more than one hour is a pain.  It should be compatible with Microsoft Windows and if possible Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="238" RevisionGUID="5a549674-b60c-48d6-8463-036f067848d0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:13:25.143" UserId="164" Text="The **Anker® Bluetooth Ultra-Slim Keyboard** is a very small, cheap, and light Bluetooth keyboard, and it seems to be a good fit for your needs. It has full sized keys, and retails for 16.00. It also comes in both black and white. You can buy one [here][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another slightly more expensive option is the **Jelly Comb Universal Back-lit keyboard**. It retails for 20$, has all the same features as the Anker® keyboard, and is backlit. Coincidentally, this keyboard also comes in both white and black. You can buy one [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://Anker%C2%AE%20Bluetooth%20Ultra-Slim%20Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Jelly-Comb-Adjustable-Brightness-Incompatible/dp/B00NG8EJOG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442196482&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=bluetooth%20keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="239" RevisionGUID="b997959b-1ae9-418c-8f64-705d07fbddf0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:35:03.303" UserId="60" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. Since this is the first question, I will be asking about the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4 slots of DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;- At least 4 SATA 6Gb/s ports&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2 PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots&#xD;&#xA;- Can support at least 1 front USB 3.0 port&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2 back panel USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;- At least 6 back panel USB ports (includes USB 3.0 above)&#xD;&#xA;- One Gigabit LAN port&#xD;&#xA;- UEFI BIOS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not Needed**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated graphics&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated WiFi/Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is a new build, the processor is not set in stone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="749" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="239" RevisionGUID="b997959b-1ae9-418c-8f64-705d07fbddf0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:35:03.303" UserId="60" Text="Motherboard for a new college desktop computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="750" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="239" RevisionGUID="b997959b-1ae9-418c-8f64-705d07fbddf0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:35:03.303" UserId="60" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="751" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="235" RevisionGUID="83ed0290-d453-47bb-a600-3a015217eff0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T03:33:44.187" UserId="40" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a comfortable BCI (brain-computer interface) device to send mouse clicks for prolonged periods of time (i.e. ~all day long). I tried the NeuroSky's MindWave and the Emotiv EPOC neuroheadset, but they both are quite uncomfortable: wearing them more than one hour is a pain.  It should be compatible with Microsoft Windows and if possible Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="98" RevisionGUID="9be2199d-ade6-4db6-ac8d-10aabdd63438" CreationDate="2015-09-14T04:45:30.477" UserId="177" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="Basically you have 2 options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hand-held 3D scanners (cost at least $300): Sense 3D scanner, Structure.io, Go!SCAN, Fuel3D. Should work out-of-the-box.&#xD;&#xA; 2. USB depth sensors (difficult to find &lt; $100). These have a few limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - All don't come with an SDK that creates high quality polygon models from 3D pointcloud. You'll end up coding.&#xD;&#xA;    - Do not contain an IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) like , so models may be mis-aligned. (this is just a guess)&#xD;&#xA;    - Not wireless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are asking hasn't hit the market yet. I'd definitely invest some more money and choose option #1.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="240" RevisionGUID="db3df148-1ef2-4341-b732-885c10d11660" CreationDate="2015-09-14T05:00:16.207" UserId="57" Text="It's a bit expensive (listed at $250 on [Newegg][1] and $290 on [Amazon][2]), but I recommend the [Fatal1ty X99M Killer][3] from ASRock. This particular board was reviewed by [Tom's Hardware][4] in December 2014. It received &quot;Tom’s Hardware Approved Award&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4x288 pin slots for DDR4 memory modules. &#xD;&#xA; - Supports up to 64GB of RAM. &#xD;&#xA; - 2 x PCI Express 3.0 x16 Slots (a third x16 slot is PCI Express 2.0)&#xD;&#xA; - 10x6Gb/s SATA ports&#xD;&#xA; - 6 USB 3.0 (2 Front, 4 Rear), 8 USB 2.0 (4 Front, 3 Rear, 1 Fatal1ty Mouse Port)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual gigabit lan ports&#xD;&#xA; - UEFI Bios and the ability to enter into Bios automatically on the next restart because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; **Restart to UEFI**&#xD;&#xA; &gt; &#xD;&#xA; &gt; Fast Boot is so fast that it is impossible for users to enter the UEFI setup utility during POST. Therefore, ASRock Restart to UEFI technology allows users to easily enter the UEFI setup utility automatically when turning on the PC next time. It is designed for those who constantly need to enter the UEFI setup utility.&#xD;&#xA; &gt;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; [\-  ASRock material on the board][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a micro ATX board. It'll fit in pretty much any case you can throw at it. The concern with a smaller case (if you still with the micro ATX) will be how well a modern video card fits. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157545&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-X99M-LGA2011-v3-CrossFireX-Motherboard/dp/B00NEG98L4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20X99M%20Killer/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-x99m-extreme4-fatal1ty-x99m-killer,3994.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="241" RevisionGUID="c3e976b2-4052-4f10-bd7e-c418e93b6388" CreationDate="2015-09-14T06:27:53.677" UserId="155" Text="I always initially recommend ASUS motherboards because of their build quality and great support among other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [ASUS Q87M-E/CSM](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132581) ($130) works with i7/i5 CPUs, 6 SATA 6Gb/s ports, micro ATX form factor, and built in features such as ASUS GPU Boost and BIOS EZ mode for easier overclocking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [ASUS A88X-PRO](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132056) ($120) works with AMD Athlon/A- Series CPUs, supports a wide range of memory frequencies, 64GB max RAM, and lots of helpful ASUS features such as MemOK! and USB BIOS flashback.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had many bad experiences with ASRock motherboards in the past as many others have, so I tend to stay away from that brand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="242" RevisionGUID="4f711878-e4bb-46b6-849d-d73e2017396b" CreationDate="2015-09-14T06:51:09.787" UserId="155" Text="The [Planon SS100](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16838124011) is the only truly portable scanner I could find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can scan up to 600 images before having to dump them onto your computer via USB&#xD;&#xA;- Charges over USB&#xD;&#xA;- Monochrome or color scans&#xD;&#xA;- Includes software for organization and OCR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One little downfall which you probably won't care about is that it can't scan wide documents like 8.5x11&quot; paper. It's great for receipts, IDs, or other small things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TdqYl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="243" RevisionGUID="b995e1ab-abf0-4c62-8a5a-700555d42825" CreationDate="2015-09-14T07:21:21.207" UserDisplayName="user281" Text="Consider this logically, RAID controller has to record your config somewhere, if you had RAID-0 or RAID-1 for example. Some do that in own flash memory, others do that on the disk. In the latter case an area on each disk must be allocated to store configuration. There's no guarantee that different manufactures would pick same format. Same goes for checksums for higher-level RAID schemes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good news is that RAID-1 is easy to recover in either case -- try whole disk, or if that doesn't work, find an offset and use data starting from that offset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your old setup could be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* no raid metadata -- you can simply plug one disk into regular motherboard and boot; This is most likely for onboard RAID controllers, as they can store metadata in BIOS config.&#xD;&#xA;* disks first partitioned and then partitions are raided with metadata -- you'll have to adjust start of partition in the partition table&#xD;&#xA;* disks first raided with metadata and then volume is partitioned -- you may have to create new partition table (bios) or may be ok (gpt)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trying the first costs you nothing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wrt. the other two, you can try disk cloning software, your layout may be recognized ;-) " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="759" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="110" RevisionGUID="79dea7d4-ce98-4e95-85f2-7d71d9cf456a" CreationDate="2015-09-14T07:33:58.460" UserId="175" Comment="Add missing word" Text="The problem with those kinds of USB devices is that it's very difficult to know what chip they are actually using. Some devices in the same series might even use different components if the manufacturer was able to source a slightly different component at a cheaper price. They would then ship a Windows driver that supports the different variations of hardware components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It may be possible to glean something about the used chips by looking at the Windows or Mac drivers. What you would be looking for are strings that you could match against existing Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, before going through that trouble, you could do the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. See if the manufacturer or seller has some mention of Linux compatibility, either in the available documentation, marketing material, or online forums.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Search online for any of the marketing terms for the device to see if anyone else has already tried using it with Linux.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Search in one of the Linux driver databases. There are several available (and some list other OSes as well), such as http://www.linux-drivers.org/, https://wiki.debian.org/Hardware, https://h-node.org/, and https://www.linuxquestions.org/hcl/.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, if the manufacturer doesn't declare Linux support for the device, chances are it won't work very well even if there are Linux drivers. Then again, even devices with declared Linux support don't always work well or might not support all of the device's functionality. Ultimately, there are no guarantees and the only way to know for sure is to try. I've had some luck with shops that would allow me to bring a laptop and try the device in the store before deciding to buy or not. (In those cases I've mostly found that the USB device didn't work at all or was practically unusable.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="245" RevisionGUID="6ad9eb4b-16c9-4eb3-a1b4-8a1411903d7b" CreationDate="2015-09-14T08:05:54.313" UserId="203" Text="I'm surprised no one has thought to suggest a Skylake based platform. Unfortunately, the CPUs only have 20 lanes of PCI-E, so the second x16 has to come off the PCH, or divide bandwidth in half (PCI-E x8). Not really much of a problem if it's used for GPUs though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation is the [Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 5][1]. 4 DDR4 DIMM slots, 6 SATA III (6 Gb/s), 3 SATA Express, and 2 M.2 slots as storage interfaces. 3 back panel and 4 headers for USB 3.0, 4 back panel and 2+2 headers for USB 2.0, and two back panel USB 3.1 slots, one is USB A, one is USB C. There are two Gigabit LAN ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard currently costs $160 at superbiiz, and yes, there is a UEFI BIOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the spec sheet: http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5498#sp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-Z170-A&amp;c=CJ &quot;Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 5&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="761" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="5295e208-7270-43f3-9f4c-2749234d5348" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:09:01.283" UserId="15" Comment="Added more details into the question, so other similar question with other req. still can be asked." Text="3D portable camera with depth sensing for less than $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="762" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="5295e208-7270-43f3-9f4c-2749234d5348" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:09:01.283" Comment="Proposed by 15 approved by -1 edit id of 55" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="74" RevisionGUID="fa2a8591-2216-459c-b59a-4265abb08521" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:09:01.283" UserId="8" Comment="Previous edit &quot;improved&quot; to insta-approve" Text="I am looking for a camera that can scan 3D objects for use in 3D modeling programs like Blender. Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SDK&#xD;&#xA; - quality 3D scans&#xD;&#xA; - portable, preferably wireless&#xD;&#xA; - less than $100 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="765" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="240" RevisionGUID="cf7cb50c-e8ff-4f87-93d0-90fed128e163" CreationDate="2015-09-14T14:56:25.680" UserId="57" Comment="typo and wording" Text="It's a bit expensive (listed at $250 on [Newegg][1] and $290 on [Amazon][2]), but I recommend the [Fatal1ty X99M Killer][3] from ASRock. This particular board was reviewed by [Tom's Hardware][4] in December 2014. It received &quot;Tom’s Hardware Approved Award&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4x288 pin slots for DDR4 memory modules. &#xD;&#xA; - Supports up to 64GB of RAM. &#xD;&#xA; - 2 x PCI Express 3.0 x16 Slots (a third x16 slot is PCI Express 2.0)&#xD;&#xA; - 10x6Gb/s SATA ports&#xD;&#xA; - 6 USB 3.0 (2 Front, 4 Rear), 8 USB 2.0 (4 Front, 3 Rear, 1 Fatal1ty Mouse Port)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual gigabit lan ports&#xD;&#xA; - UEFI Bios and the ability to enter into Bios automatically on the next restart because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; **Restart to UEFI**&#xD;&#xA; &gt; &#xD;&#xA; &gt; Fast Boot is so fast that it is impossible for users to enter the UEFI setup utility during POST. Therefore, ASRock Restart to UEFI technology allows users to easily enter the UEFI setup utility automatically when turning on the PC next time. It is designed for those who constantly need to enter the UEFI setup utility.&#xD;&#xA; &gt;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; [\-  ASRock material on the board][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a micro ATX board. It'll fit in pretty much any case you can throw at it. The concern with a smaller case (if you stick with the micro ATX) will be how well a large video card fits. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157545&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-X99M-LGA2011-v3-CrossFireX-Motherboard/dp/B00NEG98L4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20X99M%20Killer/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-x99m-extreme4-fatal1ty-x99m-killer,3994.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="cb57bf94-97dd-4ddf-907f-3996e1d455d9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:45:00.900" UserId="57" Text="I'm looking for a ceiling mounted projector for a home theater. This projector will be used to watch movies, TV and play controller based computer games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Long bulb life (my assumption is that the projector will be utilized a couple hours a day on various activities mentioned above)&#xD;&#xA; - Should have vivid colors and not have &quot;streaking&quot; during fast movement in action sequences or games&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p (or higher, if available) resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple device inputs is a plus, preferably with each being HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - Small size. &quot;Small&quot; is subjective, but I don't want a giant object hanging from the ceiling. Smaller should imply lighter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonus features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - On/Off and other settings (contrast/brightness/input device/etc) can be configured to utilize a Harmony remote control&#xD;&#xA; - Quick On, less than 10 seconds&#xD;&#xA; - Bulb replacement can be done without removing the entire projector from the ceiling&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most important to me are the first two bullet points. I've seen and used many projectors that &quot;streak&quot; during fast movement. I want to ensure this does not occur." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="767" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="cb57bf94-97dd-4ddf-907f-3996e1d455d9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:45:00.900" UserId="57" Text="Home Theater projector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="768" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="cb57bf94-97dd-4ddf-907f-3996e1d455d9" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:45:00.900" UserId="57" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="769" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="248" RevisionGUID="b86c9f1a-73ee-48c5-b9ee-df58ad1120c6" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:45:39.763" UserId="54" Text="Due to the fact that this is novelty on the market, it would be not that easy to find exacly what you want but **[Elgato Thunderbolt Dock][1]** is relatively close. We can expect that they will release similar model with Thunderbolt 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Two Thunderbolt ports 2&#xD;&#xA;2. Built-in HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;3. Built-in Gigabit Ethernet &#xD;&#xA;4. Three USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Cable-Included-10024010/dp/B00IM3OZ1C/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/x5UPo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9uwT0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="248" RevisionGUID="b5c13bcb-dfbd-424f-ae18-2347fcb30cbf" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:05:15.033" UserId="54" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Due to the fact that this is novelty on the market, it would be not that easy to find exacly what you want but **[Elgato Thunderbolt Dock][1]** is relatively close. We can expect that they will release similar model with **Thunderbolt 3**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Two Thunderbolt ports 2&#xD;&#xA;2. Built-in HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;3. Built-in Gigabit Ethernet &#xD;&#xA;4. Three USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Cable-Included-10024010/dp/B00IM3OZ1C/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/x5UPo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9uwT0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="248" RevisionGUID="62d8857b-6e8a-4891-9b18-8a82388b9ed0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:14:49.553" UserId="54" Comment="edited body" Text="Due to the fact that this is novelty on the market, it would be not that easy to find exacly what you want but **[Elgato Thunderbolt Dock][1]** is relatively close. We can expect that they will release similar model with **Thunderbolt 3**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Two Thunderbolt 2 ports&#xD;&#xA;2. Built-in HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;3. Built-in Gigabit Ethernet &#xD;&#xA;4. Three USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Cable-Included-10024010/dp/B00IM3OZ1C/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/x5UPo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9uwT0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="772" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="210" RevisionGUID="6d4b81ea-95e2-4acf-9aad-45de7ef50baa" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:16:18.030" UserId="57" Comment="adds video about CAT phone" Text="The Samsung Galaxy S 6 Active is essentially a rugged version of the Samsung Galaxy 6 with a better battery, so I think that would be well suited to your needs. A review of the S6 Active is [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that is above your price range, apparently CAT makes phones now: http://www.catphones.com/ The S50 actually seems like a decent phone at a reasonable price, so you should check that out. Caterpillar created a [promotional video][2] as part of their BuiltForIt campaign that featured the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, you could buy an Otterbox for a common phone and though it would be clunky, it would be able to withstand pretty much anything. I also have heard that Griffin makes very high quality phone cases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm30TSUY2nI&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVPku-xItv8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="773" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="210" RevisionGUID="6d4b81ea-95e2-4acf-9aad-45de7ef50baa" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:16:18.030" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by -1 edit id of 56" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="774" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="210" RevisionGUID="83183153-8805-4f67-9dbd-3d736ebef9b0" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:16:18.030" UserId="8" Comment="Andy's edit, insta-approved." Text="The Samsung Galaxy S6 Active is essentially a rugged version of the Samsung Galaxy 6 with a better battery, so I think that would be well suited to your needs. A review of the S6 Active is [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that is above your price range, apparently CAT makes phones now: http://www.catphones.com/ The S50 actually seems like a decent phone at a reasonable price, so you should check that out. Caterpillar created a [promotional video][2] as part of their &quot;BuiltForIt&quot; campaign that featured the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, you could buy an Otterbox for a common phone and though it would be clunky, it would be able to withstand pretty much anything. I also have heard that Griffin makes very high quality phone cases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm30TSUY2nI&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVPku-xItv8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="775" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="29d81712-a404-4133-83cf-84fac4fe5dc8" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:33:45.493" UserId="8" Comment="tag rename - once this tag gets autodeleted, I'll add the tag with a new name" Text="&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="776" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="ea5fd91d-10f8-4df5-ac73-06d6fe4c409b" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:36:25.133" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="f8a4a161-5991-4b77-94c7-4bec71bc87fc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:54:54.017" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for thinnest tracking device such as [TrackR sticker][1] to be able to tag multiple objects, then rack them down using some smart app. For example for organising or locating the lost items. So basically it should allow to apply the unique name. Item ringer (ring activated by app) would be an advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using TrackR, but I had some issues when item ringer was activated by it-self.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm curious if there are some alternatives to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thetrackr.com/sticker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="783" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="f8a4a161-5991-4b77-94c7-4bec71bc87fc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:54:54.017" UserId="15" Text="Smallest smart tracking device for locating objects, alternative to TrackR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="784" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="f8a4a161-5991-4b77-94c7-4bec71bc87fc" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:54:54.017" UserId="15" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;passive-tracker&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="73aacfef-98f5-4331-bf47-d5681d85b1ff" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:27:24.660" UserId="57" Comment="a couple spelling fixes" Text="I'm looking for thinnest tracking device such as [TrackR sticker][1] to be able to tag multiple objects, then track them down using some smart app. For example for organizing or locating the lost items. So basically it should allow me to apply a unique name. Item ringer (ring activated by app) would be an advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using TrackR, but I had some issues when item ringer was activated by itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm curious if there are some alternatives to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thetrackr.com/sticker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="787" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="73aacfef-98f5-4331-bf47-d5681d85b1ff" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:27:24.660" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 15 edit id of 57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="788" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="c55efc53-4384-44ae-941e-2808f1198b0c" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:42:26.677" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;data-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="250" RevisionGUID="f264ba6c-ffae-4a68-a5de-2467d93420ab" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:48:36.797" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for [BCI][1] (a brain–computer interface) device with high-range sensitive multi-channel sensors with API in order to program few smart apps/games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was playing with XWave headset by PLX, but it simply didn't work as expected. It was quite often complaining the signal was low (batteries or device weren't faulty, as I had them few), secondly it supported only one channel (as far as I remember) so the sample apps didn't work well, but it was some time ago, so I believe things has been change since then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What cutting-edge headset would you recommend nowadays?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to have API/SDK with good community support and have outstanding multi-channel sensors, so my app is not limited by the device it-self.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brain%E2%80%93computer_interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="790" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="250" RevisionGUID="f264ba6c-ffae-4a68-a5de-2467d93420ab" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:48:36.797" UserId="15" Text="Multi-channel BCI to support high range of brain waves with good API/SDK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="791" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="250" RevisionGUID="f264ba6c-ffae-4a68-a5de-2467d93420ab" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:48:36.797" UserId="15" Text="&lt;gadgets&gt;&lt;bci&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="792" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="11fc1103-ad99-47fb-947d-a48ca6df1f1c" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:15:53.863" UserId="6" Comment="added comment text" Text="I'm looking for a ceiling mounted projector for a home theater. This projector will be used to watch movies, TV and play controller based computer games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Long bulb life (my assumption is that the projector will be utilized a couple hours a day on various activities mentioned above)&#xD;&#xA; - Should have vivid colors and not have &quot;streaking&quot; during fast movement in action sequences or games&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p (or higher, if available) resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple device inputs is a plus, preferably with each being HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - Small size. &quot;Small&quot; is subjective, but I don't want a giant object hanging from the ceiling. Smaller should imply lighter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonus features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - On/Off and other settings (contrast/brightness/input device/etc) can be configured to utilize a Harmony remote control&#xD;&#xA; - Quick On, less than 10 seconds&#xD;&#xA; - Bulb replacement can be done without removing the entire projector from the ceiling&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most important to me are the first two bullet points.  I've seen and used many projectors that &quot;streak&quot; during fast movement. I want to ensure this does not occur. It would be nice to be below $700 and quiet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="793" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="11fc1103-ad99-47fb-947d-a48ca6df1f1c" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:15:53.863" Comment="Proposed by 6 approved by -1 edit id of 58" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="794" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="250" RevisionGUID="44007ecc-56d7-479b-9a0c-2df60f5c6e3f" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:40:51.230" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;bci&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="795" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="221" RevisionGUID="29bc5201-a810-4f7f-a87d-d290c372d662" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:41:01.027" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="796" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="c427aa42-9c63-46c7-afaf-d7f413367072" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:59:47.240" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar. " Text="I'm looking for a ceiling mounted projector for a home theater. This projector will be used to watch movies, TV and play controller based computer games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Long bulb life (my assumption is that the projector will be utilized a couple hours a day on various activities mentioned above)&#xD;&#xA; - Should have vivid colors and not have &quot;streaking&quot; during fast movement in action sequences or games&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p (or higher, if available) resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple device inputs is a plus, preferably with each being HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - Small size. &quot;Small&quot; is subjective, but I don't want a giant object hanging from the ceiling. Smaller should imply lighter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonus features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - On/Off and other settings (contrast/brightness/input device/etc) can be configured to utilize a Harmony remote control&#xD;&#xA; - Quick On, less than 10 seconds&#xD;&#xA; - Bulb replacement can be done without removing the entire projector from the ceiling&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most important to me are the first two bullet points.  I've seen and used many projectors that &quot;streak&quot; during fast movement. I want to ensure this does not occur. It would ideally be below $700 and quiet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="797" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="c427aa42-9c63-46c7-afaf-d7f413367072" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:59:47.240" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar. " Text="HD Projector for a home theater?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="798" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="247" RevisionGUID="c427aa42-9c63-46c7-afaf-d7f413367072" CreationDate="2015-09-14T20:59:47.240" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 59" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="66ed20ca-41ef-493e-a251-34bad8617d63" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:03:34.330" UserId="1" Text="I'm taking an AP Calculus AB class, for which I need a graphing calculator. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA; - Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA; - **Be usable on an AP exam**. I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA; - Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without worry&#xD;&#xA; - Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA; - Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would-be-nice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have a rechargeable battery, built in or otherwise&#xD;&#xA; - Color display, but battery life comes first" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="800" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="66ed20ca-41ef-493e-a251-34bad8617d63" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:03:34.330" UserId="1" Text="Graphing calculator for AP Calculus?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="801" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="66ed20ca-41ef-493e-a251-34bad8617d63" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:03:34.330" UserId="1" Text="&lt;education&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="802" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="252" RevisionGUID="b34b70dd-f818-495f-969c-8211a4872f92" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:03:34.330" UserId="1" Text="I've been using the [TI-84 Plus Silver Edition](https://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-84-plus-silver-edition/features/features-summary) for the last few years:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've gotten months at a time out of it, but I haven't been able to get a good idea of the real maximum battery life on it because I replace the batteries (4, AAA) before every test that matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used it throughout AP Stats last year, and the curriculum was based on the student having a TI-83/84. This calculator seems to be the standard that they write the books to. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - **Be usable on an AP exam**. I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this on every test I've taken, from an AP Stats test to the SAT and ACT. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without &#xD;&#xA;worry&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's what I've been doing for the last few years, and it looks brand new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**This is my main gripe.** It's fast... enough. You'll still notice a delay when solving some problems, especially ones involving statistical regression, which really shouldn't be there in 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available for [~$140 at various stores](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/16932499009141253344), but when I bought it a few years ago I seem to remember getting it at Wal-Mart for ~$110. Shop around a little bit. Relevant:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]](http://xkcd.com/768/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/YTBOV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VgAuN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="252" RevisionGUID="40a28c7d-6844-4654-8e2e-4381db45b171" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:11:19.480" UserId="1" Comment="added 269 characters in body" Text="I've been using the [TI-84 Plus Silver Edition](https://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-84-plus-silver-edition/features/features-summary) for the last few years:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've gotten months at a time out of it, but I haven't been able to get a good idea of the real maximum battery life on it because I replace the batteries (4, AAA) before every test that matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used it throughout AP Stats last year, and the curriculum was based on the student having a TI-83/84. This calculator seems to be the standard that they write the books to. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - **Be usable on an AP exam**. I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this on every test I've taken, from an AP Stats test to the SAT and ACT. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without &#xD;&#xA;worry&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's what I've been doing for the last few years, and it looks brand new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**This is my main gripe.** It's fast... enough. You'll still notice a delay when solving some problems, especially ones involving statistical regression, which really shouldn't be there in 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available for [~$140 at various stores](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/16932499009141253344), but when I bought it a few years ago I seem to remember getting it at Wal-Mart for ~$110. Shop around a little bit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, there is now a version of the calculator with a color display, the [TI-84 CE](https://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-84-plus-ce/tabs/overview). I don't have any experience with it, so I can't provide a recommendation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Relevant:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]](http://xkcd.com/768/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/YTBOV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VgAuN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="804" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="250" RevisionGUID="81c030f3-afec-4dfa-ba33-7bc47ea5dda8" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:15:30.063" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;brain-computer-interface&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="806" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="253" RevisionGUID="a4a7b340-bdf5-45b6-8fe0-3de2d556b16f" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:00:01.253" UserId="150" Text="**[TI-89](http://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-89-titanium/features/features-summary)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I own a TI-84 (see [Undo's answer](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/251/graphing-calculator-for-ap-calculus/252#252)), but my school provides students with TI-89s (TI-89 Titanium, specifically) for math classes, which I find to be much more useful. I used it throughout my AP Calculus AB and AP Calculus BC classes, as well as for other AP sciences. It's quite handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recharged my school-issued TI-89 once over the course of a school year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The specifications page](http://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-89-titanium/features/bid-specifications) quotes the TI-89 as having&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Statistics plots including scatter, xy-line, box and modified box plots. Histograms and regression lines are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't used these functions myself, but I've heard that they are helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be usable on an AP exam. I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TI-89s are allowed on the exam.](http://apstudent.collegeboard.org/apcourse/ap-calculus-bc/calculator-policy)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without worry&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have yet to do an intentional drop test, but my classmates and I have inadvertently done many in the past. The case improves the calculator's resistance to damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 is reasonably fast, so long as you don't throw a complicated integral at it. But even Wolfram Alpha would be hard-pressed to quickly solve something that complicated (I've tried!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TI-89s are expensive, but typically a bit under $150 (see [here](http://www.walmart.com/ip/Texas-Instruments-TI-89-Graphing-Calculator-Titanium/3136048), for example, at $142.48).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Have a rechargeable battery, built in or otherwise&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've never used a TI-89 with rechargeable batteries, but I don't know that they *won't* work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Color display, but battery life comes first&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 does not have a color display." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="3f7dfa6e-b5cc-4336-8fc0-2a588096d396" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:28:54.127" UserId="164" Comment="deleted 130 characters in body" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32gb of flash storage and though it costs 150$, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1gb of ram, and 8gb of on board storage. Yhe other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2gb of ram, and 32gb of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="254" RevisionGUID="49838ccb-2fc2-4d3a-8ad9-082c4fd3ad5b" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:36:26.020" UserId="155" Text="Acer generally has great home theater projectors with tons of positive ratings on both Amazon and Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Acer H6510BD](http://amzn.com/B00B97ZKIA) ($590) has pretty much everything you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Minimum of 4000 hours of lamp life &amp;mdash; has eco options to extend this&#xD;&#xA;- 10000:1 contrast ratio to bring out colors and get darker darks&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution supporting screens from 40-300 inches&#xD;&#xA;- Two HDMI inputs plus others &amp;mdash; has speakers to utilize HDMI audio if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Only weighs 4.8 pounds, very small compared to others of its caliber&#xD;&#xA;- ±40 degree vertical keystone for mounting on high ceilings&#xD;&#xA;- And of course an array of useful Acer-only features to improve image quality and performance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to be the best buy for the price. I've seen so many other projectors around this price that perform horribly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's [a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwTa3zP7O7s) reviewing it against a large wall (80&quot;). You can see vibrant colors and excellent brightness." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="c48afb0b-e69f-4e2c-9c2c-a19ceef9efa7" CreationDate="2015-09-15T00:57:58.530" UserId="6" Text="I have been using a [contour mouse](http://ergo.contour-design.com/ergonomic-mouse/contour-mouse) for some time now. It is an ergonomic mouse, however it looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/OoxeZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find the angle of my hand when using the mouse to be perfect. Vertical or horizontal mice rotate my wrist from &quot;natural&quot; and so this angle is perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to find a replacement when my heavily used one dies, but they are currently $69/each which seems excessive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The middle finger wheel mice also cause my hand to cramp with extended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic mouse&#xD;&#xA; - Rotated angle for hand - not 0° or 90°, but a mix&#xD;&#xA; - Low(er) cost&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse wheel not with middle finger&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can be either wired/USB. It'd be nice if it had a forward/backward button since those are great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="810" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="c48afb0b-e69f-4e2c-9c2c-a19ceef9efa7" CreationDate="2015-09-15T00:57:58.530" UserId="6" Text="What is a good ergonomic mouse that is not vertical?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="811" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="c48afb0b-e69f-4e2c-9c2c-a19ceef9efa7" CreationDate="2015-09-15T00:57:58.530" UserId="6" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="d21890a1-81b7-4623-8cf2-e2a655d5f60b" CreationDate="2015-09-15T06:57:03.430" UserId="40" Comment="add ergonomics tag" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="813" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="d21890a1-81b7-4623-8cf2-e2a655d5f60b" CreationDate="2015-09-15T06:57:03.430" Comment="Proposed by 40 approved by -1 edit id of 60" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="255" RevisionGUID="9fc6c12e-a125-456f-b716-233c342aaabd" CreationDate="2015-09-15T06:57:03.430" UserId="8" Comment="Franck's edit, insta-approved" Text="I have been using a [contour mouse](http://ergo.contour-design.com/ergonomic-mouse/contour-mouse) for some time now. It is an ergonomic mouse, however it looks like this: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/OoxeZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find the angle of my hand when using the mouse to be perfect. Vertical or horizontal mice rotate my wrist from &quot;natural&quot; and so this angle is perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to find a replacement when my heavily used one dies, but they are currently $69/each which seems excessive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The middle finger wheel mice also cause my hand to cramp with extended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic mouse&#xD;&#xA; - Rotated angle for hand - not 0° or 90°, but a mix&#xD;&#xA; - Low(er) cost&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse wheel not with middle finger&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can be either wired/USB. It'd be nice if it had a forward/backward button since those are great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="815" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="f1f81d89-4ce7-4020-aca2-afb2f2e189bc" CreationDate="2015-09-15T08:31:36.470" UserId="155" Comment="fixed some grammar, added link to product for more info" Text="I'm looking for a high-power wireless network adapter like Alfa products but more powerful. The [Alfa AWUS036H](http://www.alfa.com.tw/products_show.php?pc=34&amp;ps=92) is said to be the most powerful one, though its TX power is a little less than Alfa's latest wireless network adapters. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a wireless network adapter that has a TX power output of 3W or more and uses USB ports for connection. I'm going to use it on an omni-directional 10W antenna, and to offset the signal loss due to the length of the cable I need a powerful adapter. I don't want to use wireless amplifiers, so the adapter itself should generate the 3W or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found some 3 or 4 Watt wireless access points from brands like MikroTik but they use Ethernet cables instead of USB. They also operate as a totally different network device and they can't be controlled directly using a computer, so they have many limitations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="816" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="f1f81d89-4ce7-4020-aca2-afb2f2e189bc" CreationDate="2015-09-15T08:31:36.470" UserId="155" Comment="fixed some grammar, added link to product for more info" Text="High-power wireless network adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="817" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="f1f81d89-4ce7-4020-aca2-afb2f2e189bc" CreationDate="2015-09-15T08:31:36.470" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 137 edit id of 61" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="256" RevisionGUID="6974efdb-e498-4c98-aab3-f6109a7b6e52" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:52:07.520" UserId="54" Text="Due to the fact that typical smartphone durability and battery life of is not not always suited to outdoor conditions, I would like to ask you about some simple mobile phone with dual sim. Second-hand items are acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. dual-sim&#xD;&#xA;2. high quality and durable construction&#xD;&#xA;3. long battery life&#xD;&#xA;4. call sound quality&#xD;&#xA;5. price range up to $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="820" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="256" RevisionGUID="6974efdb-e498-4c98-aab3-f6109a7b6e52" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:52:07.520" UserId="54" Text="Mobile phone used only for calls &amp; SMS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="821" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="256" RevisionGUID="6974efdb-e498-4c98-aab3-f6109a7b6e52" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:52:07.520" UserId="54" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="822" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="256" RevisionGUID="e55ee212-3016-42be-bdb8-a7c59c3a0438" CreationDate="2015-09-15T10:45:59.570" UserId="8" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="Due to the fact that typical smartphone durability and battery life of is not not always suited to outdoor conditions, I would like to ask you about some simple mobile phone with dual sim. Second-hand items are acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. dual-sim&#xD;&#xA;2. high quality and durable construction&#xD;&#xA;3. long battery life&#xD;&#xA;4. good call sound quality&#xD;&#xA;5. price range up to $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="823" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="257" RevisionGUID="e707437c-b780-4003-bc32-62a5b2fce080" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:19:31.123" UserId="180" Text="For a personnal project, I intend to design a board with a temperature sensor, an MCU and a wireless &quot;connector&quot;. I would like to have that board powered by battery. The wireless technology is not yet clear, but I am considering which MCU would be the most adapted?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- cheap,&#xD;&#xA;- easy to place and to program,&#xD;&#xA;- low-power (and probably some sleep mode built in),&#xD;&#xA;- one 6-8 bits ADC,&#xD;&#xA;- Some I²C and/or serial connection,&#xD;&#xA;- one or more digital outputs to, e.g. light some LED.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The precision and speed are not decisive criteria, so proably an 8-bits MCU is perfectly fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Semi-conductors companies often provide some comparison tools but those are limited to their own products, like here, [SiLabs][1]. But I wanted to know if one/any of you had any experience in that respect, and would be able to recommand some MCU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Sleepy Bee][2] or the [MSP430L09x][3] could be interesting, whereas the [XLP][4] seems overkill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it is a personal project, the compiler should not be too expensive, and ideally free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone provide me any insight on that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/battery-operation.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/8-bit/efm8-sleepy-bee/Pages/efm8-sleepy-bee.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ti.com/lsds/ti/microcontrollers_16-bit_32-bit/msp/ultra-low_power/msp430l09x_low_voltage/overview.page&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.microchip.com/pagehandler/en-us/technology/xlp/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="824" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="257" RevisionGUID="e707437c-b780-4003-bc32-62a5b2fce080" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:19:31.123" UserId="180" Text="Low-power 8 bits microcontroller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="825" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="257" RevisionGUID="e707437c-b780-4003-bc32-62a5b2fce080" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:19:31.123" UserId="180" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="34" RevisionGUID="9c45f7d8-2ac2-49ec-b671-06f1064fce80" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:20.920" UserId="84" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="For devices that use Global Positioning System satellite signals" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="34" RevisionGUID="9c45f7d8-2ac2-49ec-b671-06f1064fce80" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:20.920" Comment="Proposed by 84 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="5494e5cf-76fe-4773-b40f-925d45b88e50" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:24.647" UserId="60" Comment="Added memory tag" Text="I am developing an Android app and have a couple physical devices, however to maximize compatibility with user's potential devices I want to run virtual machines. Currently I have 8 GB's of RAM and usually run 5-10 chrome tabs at once along with Android Studio and one or two emulators. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually when the emulators are running I notice a slight slowdown. Would there be any benefit to upgrading to 16 GB's of ram in my case?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also: the emulators each use 512 MB of ram - 2 GB depending on the situation. Is over 2 GB's practical for emulators or no?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other specs&#xD;&#xA;Intel i5-4670k&#xD;&#xA;120 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;8 GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="5494e5cf-76fe-4773-b40f-925d45b88e50" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:24.647" UserId="60" Comment="Added memory tag" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="830" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="5494e5cf-76fe-4773-b40f-925d45b88e50" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:24.647" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 39" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="151" RevisionGUID="2255e198-db58-40d5-8ec8-386e23a3f427" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:48.720" UserId="84" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="Device that allows pen and/or touch input on a pressure-sensitive surface.  A.k.a. digitizer, a.k.a. drawing tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="835" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="151" RevisionGUID="2255e198-db58-40d5-8ec8-386e23a3f427" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:48.720" Comment="Proposed by 84 approved by 214 edit id of 37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="836" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="226" RevisionGUID="3d6a0e85-8b3e-493e-a361-6a48d6082aa9" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:59.480" UserId="67" Comment="added 119 characters in body" Text="PC is an abbreviation for Personal Computer. This tag should be used for questions concerning PCs and related hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="837" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="226" RevisionGUID="3d6a0e85-8b3e-493e-a361-6a48d6082aa9" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:41:59.480" Comment="Proposed by 67 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 53" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="838" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="228" RevisionGUID="8b0309b3-97ac-47a8-b6dd-2963f7ed94ef" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:05.063" UserId="67" Comment="added 164 characters in body" Text="A Solid State Drive (SSD) is a flash-based storage device using similar technology as thumb drives, but much faster and with a hard-disk interface, typically SATA. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="839" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="228" RevisionGUID="8b0309b3-97ac-47a8-b6dd-2963f7ed94ef" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:05.063" Comment="Proposed by 67 approved by 214 edit id of 54" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="d595381c-a327-4132-999c-ef75fe8c2c00" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:08.467" UserId="84" Comment="Ref http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/142/why-there-are-smps-with-various-power-supply-output-400w-450w-500w-and-what/166?noredirect=1#comment383_166" Text="Switched Mode Power Supply - for power-supplies specific to desktop computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="841" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="d595381c-a327-4132-999c-ef75fe8c2c00" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:08.467" Comment="Proposed by 84 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 43" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="842" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="1978becd-ca85-44e6-920c-f1686f2c6b93" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:11.427" UserId="60" Comment="Added the router tag." Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="843" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="1978becd-ca85-44e6-920c-f1686f2c6b93" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:11.427" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 38" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="844" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="42" RevisionGUID="a425a09f-8a4f-4e62-9e7c-220334dc0381" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:20.767" UserId="74" Comment="Better tags since this isn't really a comparison question" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="845" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="42" RevisionGUID="a425a09f-8a4f-4e62-9e7c-220334dc0381" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:20.767" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="846" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="53a2317a-1916-470a-8daf-00f803056453" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:51.337" UserDisplayName="user137" Comment="added 53 characters in body" Text="Questions related to waterproof hardware and devices " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="847" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="53a2317a-1916-470a-8daf-00f803056453" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:51.337" Comment="Proposed by 137 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="61" RevisionGUID="671d08b4-0df9-42c0-bb8b-15b7bf8a57be" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:54.547" UserDisplayName="user137" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="Such items may be used in wet environments or under water to specified depths. Waterproofing describes making an object waterproof or water-resistant (such as a camera, watch or mobile phone)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="849" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="61" RevisionGUID="671d08b4-0df9-42c0-bb8b-15b7bf8a57be" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:42:54.547" Comment="Proposed by 137 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="192" RevisionGUID="79b91203-f89a-4fb3-945c-d7944ad5d0ee" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:43:00.757" UserId="273" Comment="added 176 characters in body" Text="Use this tag to identify questions asking about hardware recommendations related to smart cards, cryptographics chip based cards used to carry out security critical operations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="851" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="192" RevisionGUID="79b91203-f89a-4fb3-945c-d7944ad5d0ee" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:43:00.757" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 47" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="258" RevisionGUID="226a2128-15b2-4aef-9e7a-b73a88056ade" CreationDate="2015-09-15T13:05:44.183" UserId="57" Text="I have used the [FUJITSU Document Scanner ScanSnap iX500][1] and been very happy with it. It's a higher priced scanner though. It's currently $500 at [Staples][2] and $400 on [Amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![FUJITSU Document Scanner ScanSnap iX500][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is not a printer&#xD;&#xA; - Various paper sizes, including A4 and automatically recognizes the size of the paper. &#xD;&#xA; - Duplex capable&#xD;&#xA; - Windows and OS X drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Dimensions: 292 mm x 159 mm x 168 mm (11.5 in. x 6.2 in. x 6.6 in.)&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: 3.0 kg (6.62 lb.)&#xD;&#xA; - Can scan wirelessly to a device (PC, Mac, iOS or Android devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Scans to searchable PDFs&#xD;&#xA; - It can scan approximately 20 pages per minute, in my experience. The official specs say 25 ppm.&#xD;&#xA; - I can't recall the last time it jammed on me. Amazon reviews seem to agree:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-EastSide][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Improved paper handling mechanism. Regular paper documents rarely jam or misfeed on the S1500. Only if you have stuck, very thin, bended, irregular or wrinkled sheets. I threw in different types of papers and it seems to take them in better! This is a real usability improvement.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-MoonX][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Well like I said, I've got about 15,000 documents through this thing and haven't had a single problem with it feeding documents, jamming, or anything. I've used scanners almost twice the price of the iX500 that had more problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-GhostFaceReviewer][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  I had crinkled papers and it would never jam. Even thin receipts from years ago would be detected and never jammed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macworld [compared][8] this scanner to another product I've used (and would also recommend): [NeatDesk][9]. In the review Macworld noted:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Not surprisingly, given these different approaches, the ScanSnap iX500 hardware outshines NeatDesk. The ScanSnap is faster, less prone to jams and produces superior scan quality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The different approaches being referenced are NeatDesk's &quot;software company with some hardware&quot; vs Fijitsu's &quot;hardware company with some software&quot; approach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.fujitsu.com/us/products/computing/peripheral/scanners/scansnap/ix500/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.staples.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-iX500-Scanner/product_1501594&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-iX500-Scanner-PA03656-B005/dp/B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JPpmP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R17ZGVQCELM2IG/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RB00AAYPNSH3Z/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1CHOZM39O6GOO/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.macworld.com/article/2025465/document-scanner-showdown-neatdesk-versus-snapscan-ix500.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.neat.com/products/neatdesk/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="854" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="259" RevisionGUID="7fc28884-cf7c-457d-970e-34ed1f04c5cf" CreationDate="2015-09-15T14:44:23.207" UserId="311" Text="I've been using [Logitech G700s][1] for two years and I can recommend it as both ergonomic and reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ergonomic mouse — sure, it is.&#xD;&#xA;* Rotated angle for hand - not 0° or 90°, but a mix — yes, looks like about 20°&#xD;&#xA;* Low(er) cost — usually $100, but today Logitech sells it for $50, making it a low(er) cost mouse. Have no idea of how long the sale will last. &#xD;&#xA;* Mouse wheel not with middle finger — it's with the index finger.&#xD;&#xA;* Can be either wired/USB — both USB wire (can be unplugged) and wireless (Logitech reciever, not Bluetooth).&#xD;&#xA;* forward/backward button — 8 extra customizable buttons (4 on thumb, 3 on index, 1 for mode switching) and wheel tilt. I actually have a pair of buttons for forward and backward and another pair for scrolling desktops on OS X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g700s-rechargeable-wireless-gaming-mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="b686e004-ac03-4763-af19-5b550b962062" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:23:38.787" UserId="313" Text="Are there any nice light-weight e-book readers which are easy on the eye and have nice specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="857" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="b686e004-ac03-4763-af19-5b550b962062" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:23:38.787" UserId="313" Text="What is a good light-weight ebook reader?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="858" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="b686e004-ac03-4763-af19-5b550b962062" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:23:38.787" UserId="313" Text="&lt;ebook&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="fa27eaa4-fa3d-4225-9298-7e9668b53b84" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:44:54.623" UserId="313" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body" Text="Are there any nice light-weight e-book readers which are easy on the eye?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="261" RevisionGUID="3884cc8d-e4e9-4173-ada8-3a19e82bba3f" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:52:07.013" UserId="315" Text="I own a small diner. I current have a very 90s Point of sale system that is showing it's age. I'm looking for ideas for a new system with a few features that would help out a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Can handle credit and debit card transactions, in addition to standard cash transactions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Can suggest tip amounts (10%, 15%, 20%, Other?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Can handle printing to two locations. The cashier needs a receipt that they can hand to the customer but another receipt needs to go to the kitchen so that the cooks can begin doing their job&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Bar code scanner, needs to be able to handle [Code 39][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, handling any non-cash transaction involves a multistep process with users. User hands card to cashier, cashier asks &quot;Credit or Debit&quot; and then presses appropriate button, cashier swipes card. If debit, cashier points to a PIN pad for the user to enter their pin. If credit, cashier prints out credit receipt and asks for a signature. If the number of steps can be reduced, that'd be great.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Code_39" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="861" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="261" RevisionGUID="3884cc8d-e4e9-4173-ada8-3a19e82bba3f" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:52:07.013" UserId="315" Text="Point of Sale hardware for small diner?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="862" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="261" RevisionGUID="3884cc8d-e4e9-4173-ada8-3a19e82bba3f" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:52:07.013" UserId="315" Text="&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="219b9c06-94d8-44cf-8973-1f3c7483e509" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:54:21.870" UserId="313" Comment="Edited as per the comments suggestions" Text="Are there any nice light-weight e-book readers which are easy on the eye?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;Preferred specifications include: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display: Touch and (Something which is easy on the eye would be preferrable)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Decent battery life&#xD;&#xA; 3. Storage: Should be able to store atleast 200 books at a time. (That's a threshold requirement. The more, the better)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="864" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="6564b506-adc0-4bbf-b649-6a9af3b39804" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:59:07.047" UserId="313" Comment="Edited as per the comments suggestions" Text="Are there any nice light-weight e-book readers which are easy on the eye?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;Preferred specifications include: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display: Touch and (Something which is easy on the eye would be preferable)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Decent battery life  (I would be travelling a lot, so something which can run for weeks would be very good)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Storage: Should be able to store atleast 200 books at a time. (That's a threshold requirement. The more, the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am a traveller, a device which is sturdy and durable would be nice for some quick reads during travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am an avid user of Goodreads, a goodreads app or an integration would also help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="eb894a12-ab05-4639-a241-433102877e9d" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:14:42.580" UserId="57" Comment="spelling, adds link to Goodreads" Text="Are there any nice light-weight e-book readers which are easy on the eye?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred specifications include: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display: Touch and (Something which is easy on the eye would be preferable)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Decent battery life  (I would be traveling a lot, so something which can run for weeks would be very good)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Storage: Should be able to store at least 200 books at a time. (That's a threshold requirement. The more, the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am a traveler, a device which is sturdy and durable would be nice for some quick reads during travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am an avid user of [Goodreads][1], a Goodreads app or integration would also help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.goodreads.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="866" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="eb894a12-ab05-4639-a241-433102877e9d" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:14:42.580" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 313 edit id of 62" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="867" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="261" RevisionGUID="b3f522b2-4fa7-47ef-8c3d-6c286cf8a889" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:27:15.557" UserId="57" Comment="bullets instead of quotes" Text="I own a small diner. I current have a very 1990s Point of sale system that is showing it's age. I'm looking for ideas for a new system with a few features that would help out a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can handle credit and debit card transactions, in addition to standard cash transactions&#xD;&#xA; - Can suggest tip amounts (10%, 15%, 20%, Other?)&#xD;&#xA; - Can handle printing to two locations. The cashier needs a receipt that they can hand to the customer but another receipt needs to go to the kitchen so that the cooks can begin doing their job&#xD;&#xA; - Bar code scanner, needs to be able to handle [Code 39][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, handling any non-cash transaction involves a multi-step process with users. User hands card to cashier, cashier asks &quot;Credit or Debit&quot; and then presses appropriate button, cashier swipes card. If debit, cashier points to a PIN pad for the user to enter their pin. If credit, cashier prints out credit receipt and asks for a signature. If the number of steps can be reduced, that'd be great.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Code_39" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="868" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="261" RevisionGUID="b3f522b2-4fa7-47ef-8c3d-6c286cf8a889" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:27:15.557" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 315 edit id of 63" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="262" RevisionGUID="400e67c8-7aec-4dfd-a9b8-44c7363ec145" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:36:09.270" UserId="57" Text="I recommend [Clover][1]. Clover is a combination of hardware (PoS terminals, printers, barcode scanners, etc.) and software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Starting with the hardware, you have three options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Mini][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Mobile][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Station][4]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Each of these can take user credit cards. The Station is your main cashier terminal. It is stationary. The Mini is an &quot;extender&quot; for the Station. These are useful for surges - ie. the yearly festival in your town that causes your business to have lines around the corner for a weekend. They provide much of the functionality of the Station, but you don't *need* it much of the time. The Mobile is useful for the traveling server. They can carry it to the table and place orders, or during your hypothetical yearly festival, can travel down the line of customers and take their order before they get to the Station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Along with the base PoS stations, Clover has several [accessories][5]. These include barcode scanners, printers (including kitchen printers), weight scales, debit pads (though, the same functionality is available on the PoS terminals themselves) and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next comes the software. Clover has an [App Market][6] with a large amount of add on applications. The downside is that many of these are monthly subscription based. I encourage you to look through these apps though. I can see several that look like they'd be useful for a diner. There are also things that aren't Point of Sale specific. I see apps for time clocks, inventory management, multi-store management, coupons, analytics of your customers and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, there is a [developer API][7] (which the apps in the App Market use). If you find there isn't an app that you need and you have developer experience (or can hire a developer), it appears that there is code and documentation available to help you do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding your question about credit cards, Clover provides you with a Merchant account on [First Data][8]. If you have a merchant account with someone else, Clover encouages you to talk with them to see if they sell Clover. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://www.clover.com/&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/mini&#xD;&#xA; [3]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/mobile&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/station&#xD;&#xA; [5]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/accessories&#xD;&#xA; [6]: https://www.clover.com/appmarket/?clientCountry=US&#xD;&#xA; [7]: https://www.clover.com/developers/&#xD;&#xA; [8]: https://www.clover.com/features#merchant-account" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="262" RevisionGUID="394a4bc7-ae4a-450f-a139-675bc1321135" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:42:29.037" UserId="57" Comment="forgot to mention the tip suggestions" Text="I recommend [Clover][1]. Clover is a combination of hardware (PoS terminals, printers, barcode scanners, etc.) and software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Starting with the hardware, you have three options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Mini][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Mobile][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Station][4]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Each of these can take user credit cards. The Station is your main cashier terminal. It is stationary. The Mini is an &quot;extender&quot; for the Station. These are useful for surges - ie. the yearly festival in your town that causes your business to have lines around the corner for a weekend. They provide much of the functionality of the Station, but you don't *need* it much of the time. The Mobile is useful for the traveling server. They can carry it to the table and place orders, or during your hypothetical yearly festival, can travel down the line of customers and take their order before they get to the Station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Along with the base PoS stations, Clover has several [accessories][5]. These include barcode scanners, printers (including kitchen printers), weight scales, debit pads (though, the same functionality is available on the PoS terminals themselves) and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next comes the software. Clover has an [App Market][6] with a large amount of add on applications. The downside is that many of these are monthly subscription based. I encourage you to look through these apps though. I can see several that look like they'd be useful for a diner (including tip suggestions). There are also things that aren't Point of Sale specific. I see apps for time clocks, inventory management, multi-store management, coupons, analytics of your customers and more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, there is a [developer API][7] (which the apps in the App Market use). If you find there isn't an app that you need and you have developer experience (or can hire a developer), it appears that there is code and documentation available to help you do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding your question about credit cards, Clover provides you with a Merchant account on [First Data][8]. If you have a merchant account with someone else, Clover encouages you to talk with them to see if they sell Clover. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://www.clover.com/&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/mini&#xD;&#xA; [3]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/mobile&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/station&#xD;&#xA; [5]: https://www.clover.com/pos-hardware/accessories&#xD;&#xA; [6]: https://www.clover.com/appmarket/?clientCountry=US&#xD;&#xA; [7]: https://www.clover.com/developers/&#xD;&#xA; [8]: https://www.clover.com/features#merchant-account" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="7ddf73a4-88bf-4f2c-a983-fe5e924043b2" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:15:26.773" UserId="54" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with fingerprint scanner on board but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth to interest in this topic? Could you recommend something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="7ddf73a4-88bf-4f2c-a983-fe5e924043b2" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:15:26.773" UserId="54" Text="External fingerprint scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="7ddf73a4-88bf-4f2c-a983-fe5e924043b2" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:15:26.773" UserId="54" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="264" RevisionGUID="78525a56-ff1c-4b54-9593-6be58a93158f" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:30:45.107" UserId="54" Text="**E-ink is a solution for your #1 and #2.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I can recommend Kindle. I have been using my ebook reader for 3 years and it made a big relief for my eyes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my case it is Kindle Keyboard but version with touchscreen display is available on the market:&#xD;&#xA;[Kindle, 6&quot; Glare-Free Touchscreen Display][1] for £59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[All-New Kindle Paperwhite, 6&quot; with Built-in Light][2] for £109.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  You don't have to care that much about storage because popular formats like epub or mobi are really lightweight. 4 GB makes you able to hold thousands of books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life (from amazon):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A single charge lasts up to four weeks, based on half an hour of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading per day with wireless off. Battery life will vary based on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wireless usage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This description has much in common with reality. **E-ink display consumes power only when changing pages**. This is the main difference in compare to LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kindle-Glare-Free-Touchscreen-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00KDRUCJY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-New-Kindle-Paperwhite-Resolution-Display/dp/B00QJDO0QC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Goodreads integration is possible (Amazon bought this company):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Goodreads on Kindle lets you connect with the Goodreads community,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; follow friends and see what they are reading, and share and rate books&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on your Kindle. You can also shop for Kindle books and purchase&#xD;&#xA;&gt; selected titles directly within Goodreads. Help for Kindle Voyage (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), Kindle Paperwhite (7th Generation), Kindle (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), and Kindle Paperwhite (6th Generation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201734030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="8a72449b-6539-45f3-8e44-66d6a2c90fcd" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:37:36.600" UserId="60" Text="I am looking to replace my old, loud, and slow garage door opener. Since I have to do this soon anyway, why don't I buy one that makes my life easier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to be controlled from a smartphone (supporting Android and iOS)&#xD;&#xA;- Must remember if it is open or closed and convey that through the phone&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to lift a double wide door (current one is 1/2 HP and lifts it in ~12 seconds)&#xD;&#xA;- The quieter the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Quicker than current door&#xD;&#xA;- Can open or close if left in half open position (at least from phone)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="876" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="8a72449b-6539-45f3-8e44-66d6a2c90fcd" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:37:36.600" UserId="60" Text="Smartphone controlled garage door opener" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="877" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="8a72449b-6539-45f3-8e44-66d6a2c90fcd" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:37:36.600" UserId="60" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="878" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="ffdd9c13-fb9a-48c7-8417-6ce2fd24c8e8" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:15:48.067" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="879" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="ffdd9c13-fb9a-48c7-8417-6ce2fd24c8e8" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:15:48.067" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 60 edit id of 64" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="880" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="265" RevisionGUID="0ac4ff29-9be4-4815-9c81-296ebf7dfb2f" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:27:20.540" UserId="60" Comment="Added link to product." Text="I am looking to replace my old, loud, and slow garage door opener. Since I have to do this soon anyway, why don't I buy one that makes my life easier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to be controlled from a smartphone (supporting Android and iOS)&#xD;&#xA;- Must remember if it is open or closed and convey that through the phone&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to lift a double wide door (current one is 1/2 HP and lifts it in ~12 seconds)&#xD;&#xA;- The quieter the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Quicker than current door&#xD;&#xA;- Can open or close if left in half open position (at least from phone)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the [LiftMaster 8550W](https://www.liftmaster.com/For-Homes/garage-door-openers/elite-series/model-8550W) that looks like it fits my requirements. Does anyone have any experience with either this opener or brand?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="883" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="264" RevisionGUID="e4cb539a-5732-4b7a-ba06-e4dab2e581b7" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:57:15.387" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="**E-ink is a solution for your #1 and #2.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I can recommend Kindle. I have been using my ebook reader for 3 years and it made a big relief for my eyes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my case it is Kindle Keyboard but version with touchscreen display is available on the market:&#xD;&#xA;[Kindle, 6&quot; Glare-Free Touchscreen Display][1] for £59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[All-New Kindle Paperwhite, 6&quot; with Built-in Light][2] for £109.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  You don't have to care that much about storage because popular formats like epub or mobi are really lightweight. 4 GB makes you able to hold thousands of books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life (from amazon):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A single charge lasts up to four weeks, based on half an hour of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading per day with wireless off. Battery life will vary based on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wireless usage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This description has much in common with reality. **E-ink display consumes power only when changing pages**. This is the main difference in comparison to LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kindle-Glare-Free-Touchscreen-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00KDRUCJY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-New-Kindle-Paperwhite-Resolution-Display/dp/B00QJDO0QC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Goodreads integration is possible (Amazon bought this company):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Goodreads on Kindle lets you connect with the Goodreads community,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; follow friends and see what they are reading, and share and rate books&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on your Kindle. You can also shop for Kindle books and purchase&#xD;&#xA;&gt; selected titles directly within Goodreads. Help for Kindle Voyage (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), Kindle Paperwhite (7th Generation), Kindle (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), and Kindle Paperwhite (6th Generation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201734030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="884" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="e629181a-afae-4c01-8694-a1f7cbb626e5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T00:12:05.510" UserId="54" Comment="added 163 characters in body" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with fingerprint scanner on board but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense). In many cases it was not too restrictive when it comes to accuracy of reading. Even if the settings of the hardware was selected to the highest level of &quot;security&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth to interest in this topic? Could you recommend something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="af287952-e953-43af-9d0c-e9928ff1ac69" CreationDate="2015-09-16T00:56:39.657" UserId="1" Comment="for folks who don't live under the tyranny of the College Board" Text="I'm taking an AP Calculus AB class, for which I need a graphing calculator. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA; - Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA; - **Be usable on an AP exam** (for non-USA people, the College Board has [very specific guidelines](http://professionals.collegeboard.com/testing/ap/test-day/calculators) on what calculators are allowed. I'm specifically intested in the [policy for AP Calculus AB](https://apstudent.collegeboard.org/apcourse/ap-calculus-ab/calculator-policy?calcab)). I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA; - Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without worry&#xD;&#xA; - Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA; - Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would-be-nice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have a rechargeable battery, built in or otherwise&#xD;&#xA; - Color display, but battery life comes first" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="886" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="232" RevisionGUID="b558b60c-44f1-409f-a969-b53917d85b5c" CreationDate="2015-09-16T02:42:37.020" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:150,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;HDE 226868&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="266" RevisionGUID="a67103af-6546-491c-a664-bb2c886bda62" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:20:45.713" UserId="155" Text="The digital board you're upgrading to should have individual monitor volumes. If not, I'd say it's a crappy board. That said, not many high-quality/professional-grade monitoring headphones have dedicated volume control anymore. It's usually all done through the hardware or software you connect them to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, the [Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO](http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM) is absolutely amazing for what you're doing. I've had the pleasure of using a pair of these for audio production and they're top-notch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 250 ohms and 5-35,000 Hz range&#xD;&#xA;- Acoustically closed diffuse-field&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband&#xD;&#xA;- All parts are replaceable&#xD;&#xA;- 9.8 feet of coiled cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend these." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="888" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="8c80750c-03cb-49b7-9cee-9bbd93bb5e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T05:18:55.977" UserId="320" Text="I am enrolled in a Front End Developer course that starts in January. I need a laptop for the class. I am trying to decide between a Windows machine or a Macbook pro. The class info says that either are acceptable. Will either environment offer me an advantage when doing front end development or are they both identical? Basically will both platforms offer equal access to the programming tools I will use or will one platform offer more compatibility?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The course will use HTML5/CSS/Javascript/Ajax/PHP/SASS/Jquery/Angular/Git/Photoshop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="889" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="8c80750c-03cb-49b7-9cee-9bbd93bb5e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T05:18:55.977" UserId="320" Text="Starting Front End Development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="8c80750c-03cb-49b7-9cee-9bbd93bb5e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T05:18:55.977" UserId="320" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;frontend&gt;&lt;hardware&gt;&lt;javascript&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="268" RevisionGUID="e3a28b48-ac3f-4bad-89ad-a0188be20c75" CreationDate="2015-09-16T05:31:02.863" UserId="313" Text="A short answer would be a Windows machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because it is cheaper than a Mac machine, and both the machines offer the same support, and none have any significant advantages over the other when it comes to web dev. or specifically front-end development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Reddit thread][1] might also be of some help for you to decide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, if money is not a burden, then you can go for either one, without any bias when it comes to ease of development tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/learnprogramming/comments/2fd04h/web_development_is_there_any_reason_to_buy_a_mac/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="269" RevisionGUID="9d5cd22e-600b-4e54-a79f-1e291378bf64" CreationDate="2015-09-16T07:59:27.727" UserId="155" Text="I strongly suggest a Windows machine. There are a bunch of reasons for this, some more important than others, so here goes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pricing**  &#xD;&#xA;Windows machines are usually significantly cheaper than Macs by at least $300. Since you're just doing web dev and probably some slightly heavy multitasking, no need for a big price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Software**  &#xD;&#xA;The big one, Notepad++, isn't available for Mac. This text editor has FTP Sync which allows you to connect to a database and live edit and reupload files &amp;mdash; a huge time-saver. That and the hundreds of other great features it has that make writing things like HTML, CSS, or JS a breeze.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Hardware**  &#xD;&#xA;This is where the biggest feats are.  &#xD;&#xA;You, of course, have a _far_ larger selection of laptop specs with Windows. Although a Mac might do just fine for you, you still might want less of something you won't need much of (e.g. video capabilities) so you won't have to pay as much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other huge thing about Windows machines is the choice of a touch screen and similar technologies. A touch screen is an excellent thing to have at your disposal as a web developer because you'll need to develop for mobile, so all you'll need to do is use your laptop as if it were a big phone or tablet. Without this, mobile development can be a _massive_ pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macbooks are famous for having almost none of the ports people need for everyday activities (as I'll state below, compatibility isn't great). With a Windows machine, you, again, have a wide selection of USB ports, video/audio ports, etc. This may not be a big deal for many, but I personally find it a great benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**  &#xD;&#xA;Windows is the most widely used OS in business (which is where web dev falls under) because of it's dependability and compatibility. Very few things are compatible with OSX compared to Windows and that's a big deal when it comes to software availability, workflows, and general productivity in business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, keep in mind that Mac isn't terrible either. It does have some extremely useful straight-out-of-the-box features like an eyedropper and the ability to view every window you have open at the same time (good for organization)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="894" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="266" RevisionGUID="e6ea279a-72e9-458e-b87c-9e35612db234" CreationDate="2015-09-16T08:07:36.577" UserId="155" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="The digital board you're upgrading to should have individual monitor volumes. If not, I'd say it's a crappy board. That said, not many high-quality/professional-grade monitoring headphones have dedicated volume control anymore. It's usually all done through the hardware or software you connect them to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, the [Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO](http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM) ($200) is absolutely amazing for what you're doing. I've had the pleasure of using a pair of these for audio production and they're top-notch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 250 ohms and 5-35,000 Hz range&#xD;&#xA;- Acoustically closed diffuse-field&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband&#xD;&#xA;- All parts are replaceable&#xD;&#xA;- 9.8 feet of coiled cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend these." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="898" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="271" RevisionGUID="7012663f-70ae-47d9-be4d-ecfa3c97db81" CreationDate="2015-09-16T09:54:04.877" UserId="54" Text="1. In terms of price it would be better to choose Windows. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Front-end developers often use Macs because of the **healthy balance between unix-based system and &quot;working out of the box&quot;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. There was an option to install Photoshop CS2 on Ubuntu. I wish it could be possible for every version :D. http://www.omgubuntu.co.uk/2013/01/photoshop-cs2-available-for-free-works-fine-in-wine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to @Adam's answer, I can say that using Sublime Text with some Live Reload plugin will do a better job than Notepad++. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your case the most important part is connected with browser compatibility rather than system itself. The only program that needs better hardware is Photoshop but but it also depends on the size of the project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Console in Windows it is not a big problem because a lot of things you do in the browser built-in inspector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Running a server on your localhost is easy too. They are plenty of tools like [XAMPP][1] which contain basic software in one package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.apachefriends.org/pl/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="5d5ce4ad-4c04-4bb9-b277-bb8855356450" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:39:58.573" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag, fixed some punctuation" Text="I am enrolled in a Front End Developer course that starts in January. I need a laptop for the class. I am trying to decide between a Windows machine or a Macbook Pro. The class info says that either are acceptable. Will either environment offer me an advantage when doing front-end development or are they both identical? Basically will both platforms offer equal access to the programming tools I will use or will one platform offer more compatibility?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The course will use HTML5, CSS, Javascript, AJAX, PHP, SASS, jQuery, Angular, Git, and Photoshop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="902" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="5d5ce4ad-4c04-4bb9-b277-bb8855356450" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:39:58.573" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag, fixed some punctuation" Text="Laptop for front-end development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="903" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="5d5ce4ad-4c04-4bb9-b277-bb8855356450" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:39:58.573" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag, fixed some punctuation" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="904" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="5d5ce4ad-4c04-4bb9-b277-bb8855356450" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:39:58.573" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by -1 edit id of 65" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="905" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="85ed8246-d08c-4d60-9882-5e8950a9742c" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:39:58.573" UserId="8" Comment="insta-approved the last edit" Text="I am enrolled in a Front End Developer course that starts in January. I need a laptop for the class. I am trying to decide between a Windows machine or a Macbook Pro. The class info says that either are acceptable. Will either environment offer me an advantage when doing front-end development or are they both identical? Basically will both platforms offer equal access to the programming tools I will use or will one platform offer more compatibility?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The course will use HTML5, CSS, Javascript, AJAX, PHP, SASS, jQuery, Angular, Git, and Photoshop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="272" RevisionGUID="ea5a1fed-3801-4ad7-995b-4abe262d1095" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:51:36.137" UserId="8" Text="I'd say you should choose a **Windows** platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows, in general, will give you a more flexible platform to work from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The vast majority of programs work with Windows (not that I have stats for this - but when looking for software, the most common download type seems to be for Windows)&#xD;&#xA;- It's dead easy to run a web server off a Windows platform: either Microsoft's IIS, or Apache using a WAMP stack will work fine. I run WampServer on my own computer.&#xD;&#xA;- If you can, get one with Windows 10. WinX now comes with some of the advanced features that a Mac has; as Adam mentions that you can view all open windows simultaneously, it's worth noting that X can do this too.&#xD;&#xA;- There is a much higher degree of compatibility with Windows in many areas than there is with Mac OS X.&#xD;&#xA;- You get flexibility in specification that a Macbook simply can't parallel; there are laptops designed so you can take them apart and change any component inside them.&#xD;&#xA;- As Adam rightly mentions, Windows is used in 99% of web development in the business world. If you get used to OS X, then you'll have to re-learn where everything is when you get a job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, everyone mentions that Windows is also the cheaper option - but it's a significant point for students, so it really is worth strong consideration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="273" RevisionGUID="7d833f71-7c24-4405-bdc2-caf5f93167d5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:03:32.037" UserId="8" Text="The Sennheiser HD range of headphones is one of the most comprehensive ranges on the market, and can suit a number of different needs. It ranges from the HD 203's I use at home (around £50, 15-19k Hz) right up to the HD 800's that are professional headphones (£1000, 8-50k Hz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I probably wouldn't recommend either of these extremes - the 203's are good, but they probably don't match your current phones, and the 800's are extremely expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the range, I'll recommend you the [HD 600's][1]. They:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Are widely compatible. I don't see any issues with using them for P/A FL feeds.&#xD;&#xA;- Have good passive noise cancelling, thanks to the foam in the ear rests and the hard yet open-backed design.&#xD;&#xA;- Are fairly expensive, unfortunately. They're £370 new ($570), though you can usually find a couple pairs on Amazon or eBay for a couple hundred less. (If that's too much, take a look at the [HD 558's][2], which have marginally reduced specs for a lower price (around $249).)&#xD;&#xA;- No volume adjustment. This feature is actually pretty rare these days. Though I would expect your new sound desk to have independent volume controls for each PHONE OUT socket.&#xD;&#xA;- Have 3m (9 and a bit feet) of coiled cable.&#xD;&#xA;- 260g weight, 300 Ω impedance, 12-39k Hz response, 97dB pressure level, and light wearing contact force at 2.5N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://en-uk.sennheiser.com/best-audio-headphones-high-end-stereo-hifi-hd-600&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://en-uk.sennheiser.com/audio-headphones-stereo-hifi-hd-558" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="6cfeee6a-d4c8-4726-8f3b-ddd4bd8dc812" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:22:39.477" UserId="323" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my pc, three in total.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what specs my graphic card should have to run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    2 24&quot; full-hd monitors&#xD;&#xA;    1 21&quot; hd-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors supporting 1920x1080 max res.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="910" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="6cfeee6a-d4c8-4726-8f3b-ddd4bd8dc812" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:22:39.477" UserId="323" Text="Multiple monitors hardware requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="911" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="6cfeee6a-d4c8-4726-8f3b-ddd4bd8dc812" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:22:39.477" UserId="323" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;graphic-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="275" RevisionGUID="4d9b5d9f-85f8-4fb5-a1c9-217ec3bd9752" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:48:07.637" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="276" RevisionGUID="53e5d451-2229-451d-8ce2-0f9f104a972e" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:48:07.637" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="277" RevisionGUID="069081dc-9e12-4764-9af4-9aa0518c6571" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:50:24.490" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="278" RevisionGUID="85b91c6e-a6d0-4137-a618-7bd70768f6d8" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:50:24.490" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="9dc1fe52-0510-4bb1-9c84-0f634dfadba7" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:32:02.793" UserId="323" Comment="Add clarrity." Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my pc, three in total.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what specs my graphic card should have to run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    2 24&quot; full-hd monitors&#xD;&#xA;    1 21&quot; hd-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors supporting 1920x1080 max res.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&lt;br &gt;&#xD;&#xA;My supported connections will be 1 hdmi, 1 hdmi over dvi and a vga." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="279" RevisionGUID="97411d79-ebbe-402f-ba02-52dedfeb8297" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:41:19.290" UserId="123" Text="I agree with Firepower and SEJPM that the Intel Compute Stick is the route to go for around $150 but if you are looking for a cheaper version of that, the MeeGoPad T02 is a great alternative for $79 (The Ubuntu Version) and around $109 (The Windows 8.1 with upgrade to Windows 10 Version)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both sticks have a Intel Atom Z3735f processor, 2GB's of Ram and 32 GB's of flash storage and connect through HDMI. In addition they have 2 full sized USB 2 ports, Wi-Fi B/G/N and Bluetooth 4.0. Finally they have a micro sd slot with support for up to 32 GB's of extra storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu Version: [here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Version: [here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Meegopad-Version-Compute-Storage-Bluetooth/dp/B011HPKYCK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Blomiky-Meegopad-Activated-Windows-Computer/dp/B00ZFJFOXY/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="36562327-383b-4339-a859-9f5de4cc7756" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:50:32.720" UserId="54" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with fingerprint scanner on board but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense). In many cases it was not too restrictive when it comes to accuracy of reading. Even if the settings of the hardware were selected to the highest level of &quot;security&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth to interest in this topic? Could you recommend something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="920" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="9d3f3bd7-9e0c-4c55-823d-830b7516e52f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:53:01.347" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="921" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="dcdfb3dd-b080-463d-80b4-4148104c78d5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:05:19.603" UserId="214" Comment="Focused question on a specific product recommendation rather than a disucssion of the terminology (on topic at Super User)" Text="I want to buy a gaming PC to place next to my TV. To give it the best air intake, and given the (little) space available in the room I have decided to buy a case that I can place vertically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, its width would be under 14cm (5.5in). I don't have a restriction on height, and the depth should be under 50cm (~19in).&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="922" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="dcdfb3dd-b080-463d-80b4-4148104c78d5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:05:19.603" UserId="214" Comment="Focused question on a specific product recommendation rather than a disucssion of the terminology (on topic at Super User)" Text="Recommendation for &quot;thin tower PC cases&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="923" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="dcdfb3dd-b080-463d-80b4-4148104c78d5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:05:19.603" UserId="214" Comment="Focused question on a specific product recommendation rather than a disucssion of the terminology (on topic at Super User)" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="281" RevisionGUID="c2223ed5-4ad3-401a-97d5-69ca3c8a34c2" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:24:11.203" UserId="75" Text="The [**Crosscall Shark V2**][1] seems to fit almost all your requirements. Almost, because with the current exchange rate (Euros to USD) it costs 101$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - floats (water resistant)&#xD;&#xA; - is [IP68][3] certificated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two other phones you may want to look into. The **[Caterpillar B25][4]** and the newer **[B30][5]**. [Here's a comparison][2] of the two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only real difference is the battery life. Based on the above linked comparison, the B25 has a bigger battery capacity (1300 mAh vs. 1000 mAh), but the stand-by time is almost 100 hours lower, although the talk time is 3.5 hours higher. &lt;sup&gt;Well, on the CAT homepage they seem to have the same talk time. But the B25 has much more detailed specs there than the B30.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only the (factory) price is a bit high. It's about 157.90$ (140 Euros), but, as you stated in your question, since second-hand items are acceptable you'll find both phones much cheaper online (50-100$), for example on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both CAT phones are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [IP67][3] certificated&#xD;&#xA; - water resistant up to 1 meter (3.3 feet) for 30 minutes&#xD;&#xA; - Drop-to-concrete resistant from up to 1.8m (5.9 feet)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't make a statement about the call sound quality because I have never held one of those phone in my hand. If you can, check the phones out in a store and compare the sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://crosscall.com/boutique/en/our-mobiles/12-telephone-etanche-professionnel-shark-3700764700150.html&#xD;&#xA; [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone1=5983&amp;idPhone2=7312&#xD;&#xA; [3]: http://www.dsmt.com/resources/ip-rating-chart&#xD;&#xA; [4]: http://www.catphones.com/phones/b25/&#xD;&#xA; [5]: http://www.catphones.com/phones/b30/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="282" RevisionGUID="e1036d5b-8335-4175-868e-3fb6b5f5591d" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:39:24.063" UserId="313" Text="The [Microsoft Lumia 430][1] is a nice bet. It was Nokia when I bought it, but it's just the name which has changed and not the specs. I used it for around 2 years, so I can vouch for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Price:** With the current dollar-rupee exchange rate, it would be around $75&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Durability and quality:** It is pretty robust, and durable (have used it for 2 years, and now, my Mom uses it). Water resistant too.&#xD;&#xA; 3. **Battery Life:** Pretty decent. Goes on for 2 straight days with around 2 and a half hours of talking everyday.   (**1500 mAh**)&#xD;&#xA; 4. **Sound Quality:** Bot the sound and call quality are at par with the top android phones in the market.&#xD;&#xA; 5. **price range:** As mentioned, it costs around $75&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoft.com/en-in/mobile/phone/lumia430-dual-sim/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="926" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="75b866b0-ff06-4565-82c4-6305e867c540" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:19:22.283" UserId="74" Comment="Fix markdown, capitalize initialisms" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what specs my graphic card should have to run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 24&quot; full-HD monitors&#xD;&#xA; - 1 21&quot; HD-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors supporting 1920x1080 max resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My supported connections will be 1 HDMI, 1 HDMI over DVI and a VGA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="927" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="75b866b0-ff06-4565-82c4-6305e867c540" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:19:22.283" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 323 edit id of 68" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="928" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="61e78c17-fd0e-4634-926c-def12445b512" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:32:20.213" UserId="214" Comment="Edited to stay on the &quot;recommendations&quot; side of this site. General configuration questions are off topic (see Super User)" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what graphic card would run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 24&quot; full-HD monitors&#xD;&#xA; - 1 21&quot; HD-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors supporting 1920x1080 max resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My supported connections will be 1 HDMI, 1 HDMI over DVI and a VGA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="61e78c17-fd0e-4634-926c-def12445b512" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:32:20.213" UserId="214" Comment="Edited to stay on the &quot;recommendations&quot; side of this site. General configuration questions are off topic (see Super User)" Text="Graphic card that would support three monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="930" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="61e78c17-fd0e-4634-926c-def12445b512" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:32:20.213" UserId="214" Comment="Edited to stay on the &quot;recommendations&quot; side of this site. General configuration questions are off topic (see Super User)" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;graphic-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="931" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="fde8034f-9c48-4e28-abed-bc4b88feddbf" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:53:14.947" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="932" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="17854ebe-de86-4cbf-b433-8089ef58e3e6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:53:45.797" UserId="74" Comment="re-add [thin-client] as per http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/110/74" Text="&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;thin-client&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="933" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="17854ebe-de86-4cbf-b433-8089ef58e3e6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:53:45.797" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by -1 edit id of 69" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="934" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="7f4e53d0-dbdd-468d-88e9-d2ccb48a6804" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:53:45.797" UserId="8" Comment="insta-approve of last edit" Text="We develop cost effective hospital information systems for rural India which runs as a web application. To make the overall cost of ownership low, we use Ubuntu as the server and  client OS. To drive the cost further down, I would like to move away from entry level PCs as client devices to thin clients running Ubuntu (or other free Linux variants).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - With  popular browser (firefox or chrome) support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - standard Monitor with minimum 1280 X 720  pixel Resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 to 4 USB ports to connect any printer, keyboard, mice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supporting latest Ubuntu LTS version (Ubuntu 14.04)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No separate commercial software requirement. Free/Open Source software like Linux Terminal Server are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - One 10/100/1000 Mbps ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; What would be options I can look at? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="935" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="c3d60a03-93bd-4baa-974d-4445ca346042" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:03:05.010" UserId="214" Comment="removed subtext. Questions not asked in good faith will be closed." Text="For my work, we have to control a 50kW power-station and coordinate different components, inculding some safety-critical sensors, reactions, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering to use a [PLC][1] as a Master controller. We have about&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 30-50 digital I/O (with 10-15 special safety elements)&#xD;&#xA;- 10-20 analog I/O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The details are not yet completely clear. Nevertheless I was looking for a PLC solution for it, and I don't have prior experience with PLCs myself (but I do with MCU). At first, I looked into the [Wago 750/753 Series][2], which offer some modularity. But then, people often recommend the Siemens S7 PLCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This time, it is to build a prototype, but we might expect 5-40 products delivered if everything runs fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any experience with the Wago PLCs, how do they compare with the Siemens? And would you suggest an alternative?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_controller&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wago.us/products/components-for-automation/modular-io-system-ip-20-750753-series/overview/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="936" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="0274b69d-5bb5-4119-9c17-04a995a69366" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:14:33.987" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="937" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="2dfef7cf-ad6c-42fb-869e-6dd230ab83d1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:16:21.083" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="938" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="154" RevisionGUID="28f309ae-6c91-4a7b-b09e-f69962925b79" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:25:48.093" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="939" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="7f30b869-7c70-47fa-b543-67338fb72aea" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:28:55.580" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="941" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="3a6ca63f-751a-4be6-b223-05cba2cdc017" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:46:09.463" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="283" RevisionGUID="c49c0451-a315-4a2a-b902-26951be5de23" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:53:21.520" UserId="1" Text="I'd like to have a simple LED light that I can control from my computer (2012 MacBook Pro). I've heard of Kickstarter projects like [`blink(1)`](http://buy.thingm.com/blink1), but I don't want to have it stuck right up against my computer. If anyone has experience with these, I'd love to here it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I'd like to have three or four of these that are individually controllable so that I could make a 'flowchart'-type thing for deployments. For example, a simple Capistrano Rails deployment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - One light for a good connection to the server&#xD;&#xA; - Another light for a good pull&#xD;&#xA; - One for migrations and asset precompiling finishing&#xD;&#xA; - Another for complete success of everything&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would write the code to make all this happen, of course. I just need the hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Be able to output some noticable amount of light.&#xD;&#xA; - Since I'm going to be using a few of these, they should be individually addressable and the addresses remain consistent over time.&#xD;&#xA; - Work over, at most, a single USB port with an expander. I don't have a whole horde of USB ports to use. Bluetooth and wall-power would be even better, but that's probably pushing the price up.&#xD;&#xA; - Have a sane API, ideally something that can be run in bash.&#xD;&#xA; - Work with OS X / Ubuntu. OS X is a requirement, Ubuntu would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA; - Be under $20 each. Ideally much, much less&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Colored, but that's not a requirement. A single white-or-yellow color is fine.&#xD;&#xA; - Preassembled. Solder scares me, but I'll use it if I have to. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="283" RevisionGUID="c49c0451-a315-4a2a-b902-26951be5de23" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:53:21.520" UserId="1" Text="Simple-to-use API-controllable LED light(s)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="283" RevisionGUID="c49c0451-a315-4a2a-b902-26951be5de23" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:53:21.520" UserId="1" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="945" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="91" RevisionGUID="a8dc467f-ae04-43b0-be0a-9ea59e6b46cf" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:09:13.330" UserId="74" Comment="added 224 characters in body" Text="## [Ergotron Workfit-D][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Ergotron Workfit-D][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image source: ergotron.com&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not (yet) own this desk, but I've put lots of research into this in hopes of soon owning a sit-stand desk. After evaluating quite a few desks, I've all but settled on the Workfit-D. It is non-motorized; the raising and lowering is enabled by Ergotron's &quot;Patented Constant Force™ technology&quot;. That's a fancy term for &quot;[spring powered][3]&quot;. The height adjustment is done by squeezing the handbrake on the front right corner of the desk then lifting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Relevant Specifications ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Capacity** — 65 lbs (29.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - **Surface area** — Rectangular, 47.6&quot; x 23.5&quot; (121 cm x 60 cm)&#xD;&#xA;   - If you'd like custom dimensions, Ergotron sells [just the base][4]. The maximum recommended dimensions are available on that product page. Note the difference in capacity; presumably the surface shipped with the Workfit-D is 23 lbs. IKEA sells [many different table tops][5] in different sizes, shapes, and colors; you could go this route if you'd like some customization.&#xD;&#xA; - **Vertical lift** — 20&quot; (51 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Minimum height** — 30.6&quot; (78 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum height** — 50.6&quot; (129 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - **Price** — Currently [$689.00 with free shipping on Amazon][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Advantages ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I initially was drawn to IKEA's [Bekant motorized sit/stand desk][7] due to the lower price, but two things dissuaded me: speed and stability. I've seen multiple reviewers report that at higher heights the Bekant is [not quite as stable as you might expect][8]. The Bekant also has a very slow height adjustment. Ergotron produced [this video][9] comparing their desk's rate of adjustment with one that is motorized. The video is a little silly but does a good job making a point. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Disadvantages ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Workfit-D does not have infinite height points. It uses locking pins to secure the desk at the height you select. I don't have information on the spacing between the pin holes but personally I would be happy with what's available based on the video reviews I've watched.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum desk height is also a little high. My current static height sitting desk is roughly 28&quot;. I think I'd be comfortable with the 30.6&quot; height, but it's a surprisingly high base for desk that has an adjustable height.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Helpful reviews ###&#xD;&#xA; - [ENGLISH: ERGOTRON WORKFIT-D DESK 【HD】][10]by Tecnologia Brasil&#xD;&#xA; - [The Best Gaming Desk - Workfit-D Sit-Stand Desk Unboxing + Review][11] by LevelCapGaming &#xD;&#xA; - [Awesome Sit-Stand Desk by Ergotron][12] by Chris Davis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/631/language/en-US/Default.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/R9QaU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9044_iJ4S8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/757/language/en-US/Default.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/workspaces/18966/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Ergotron-WorkFit-D-Sit-Stand-Desk-walnut/dp/B009MQTMF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441846977&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=workfit-d&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S49022524/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://youtu.be/xSsKpWAIJGQ?t=277&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnfSeoJcXvw&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7MDy2nzaq0&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h--HqeRRckA&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqueNvnhSwI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="93b581ce-99b4-47f8-8bb7-95ac8726dbf2" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:19:40.457" UserId="313" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="Is there any nice light-weight e-book reader which is easy on the eye?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred specifications include: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display: Touch and (Something which is easy on the eye would be preferable)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Decent battery life  (I would be traveling a lot, so something which can run for weeks would be very good)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Storage: Should be able to store at least 200 books at a time. (That's a threshold requirement. The more, the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am a traveler, a device which is sturdy and durable would be nice for some quick reads during travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am an avid user of [Goodreads][1], a Goodreads app or integration would also help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.goodreads.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="947" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="684e5b18-f815-45cf-a0df-fae56cedce68" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:57:49.740" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
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  <row Id="949" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="404503b5-ba68-4095-8fea-ee63454e8bbf" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:59:55.977" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="951" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="6b380894-a785-4307-a348-5fc0243a09d0" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:05:15.347" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="952" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="0ec53c26-8226-4a9d-ab38-dc6cdf44b8a4" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:06:34.080" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="954" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="82215aca-da39-4237-a81e-93c3d5d90cee" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:19:58.543" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="276" RevisionGUID="828280ac-4909-4c93-ab15-7df741728959" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:26:29.237" UserId="57" Comment="added 214 characters in body" Text="A mobile phone with an integrated computer and features not generally associated with a telephone. Use this tag when asking about advanced mobile phones and features beyond placing a telephone call on such devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="276" RevisionGUID="828280ac-4909-4c93-ab15-7df741728959" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:26:29.237" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 66" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="278" RevisionGUID="af408af7-98ae-4d12-9474-944fb842a71f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:26:34.887" UserId="57" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="NAS is an abbreviation for &quot;Network Attached Storage&quot;. It is a way of providing file-level access to storage on a network. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="958" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="278" RevisionGUID="af408af7-98ae-4d12-9474-944fb842a71f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:26:34.887" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 67" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="959" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="3e4dd14e-45d5-474e-94cf-f5406447ff4b" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:28:26.783" UserId="67" Comment="1" />
  <row Id="960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="284" RevisionGUID="7087dc58-ce01-4dea-9404-5abe3bd2be5e" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:46:37.083" UserId="54" Text="I'd also recommend a **Samson** company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a problem with buying second-hand items you can get a **Samson Go Mic** for less than $30 or buy a brand new one for $38 from [amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portable USB condenser microphone &#xD;&#xA; - Plug and Play &#xD;&#xA; - Useful clip (you don't have to buy another accessory to keep in a place) &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Natural&quot; sound (perfect for podcasts) - check this [comparison][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very popular model and you can find reliable reviews [like this one][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6zmJ23RCKU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InhS6xOoPwc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/78YAF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="284" RevisionGUID="b0574451-81b6-4269-9cd0-fceacfc9d7dc" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:51:55.140" UserId="54" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'd also recommend a **Samson** company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a problem with buying second-hand items, you can get a **Samson Go Mic** for less than $30 or buy a brand new one for $38 from [amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portable USB condenser microphone &#xD;&#xA; - Plug and Play &#xD;&#xA; - Useful clip (you don't have to buy another accessory to keep in a place) &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Natural&quot; sound (perfect for podcasts) - check this [comparison][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very popular model and you can find reliable reviews [like this one][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6zmJ23RCKU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InhS6xOoPwc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/78YAF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/duJ7i.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="285" RevisionGUID="e2528846-3c94-41e9-b188-3a71a07a99c6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:54:04.233" UserId="70" Text="I lost my LG sound bar remote before I moved.  Prior to moving I had DIRECTV and could use their remote to control the volume on the sound bar while performing all of the satellite functionalities I needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After moving I switched providers, this company uses TiVo.  When they came and set everything up the remote was not programmed for the sound bar.  I tried manually setting it but wasn't able to find the correct codes as well as finding the specific remote model that they gave me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a specific universal remote control that will allow me to connect to my TV, sound bar, and TiVo receiver?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="963" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="285" RevisionGUID="e2528846-3c94-41e9-b188-3a71a07a99c6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:54:04.233" UserId="70" Text="Remote for LG TV, LG Soundbar, and TiVo box" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="964" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="285" RevisionGUID="e2528846-3c94-41e9-b188-3a71a07a99c6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:54:04.233" UserId="70" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;lg&gt;&lt;tivo&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="284" RevisionGUID="087dc572-5ee8-484b-a7ee-7a0b5024ed9d" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:12:30.110" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'd also recommend a **Samson** company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a problem with buying second-hand items, you can get a **Samson Go Mic** for less than $30 or buy a brand new one for $38 from [amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portable USB condenser microphone &#xD;&#xA; - Plug and Play &#xD;&#xA; - Useful clip (you don't have to buy another accessory to keep it in a place) &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Natural&quot; sound (perfect for podcasts) - check this [comparison][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very popular model and you can find reliable reviews [like this one][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6zmJ23RCKU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InhS6xOoPwc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/78YAF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/duJ7i.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="968" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="286" RevisionGUID="db9f0fa0-6e36-4810-99c3-0d6feeb9cf76" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:52:34.977" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for headphones for open-space office environment to filter out other people's noise (chatting, talking on the phone etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They should filter out usual office noise effectively.&#xD;&#xA; - Filtering should work well with all kinds of music.&#xD;&#xA; - It will be perfect if filtering works without even listening to music (like an ear-plug).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the last few years I've used normal headphones which cover my whole ears (Sennheiser HD 201) and ear canal phones (Sennheiser CX-300, CX-300 II). I've found the in-ear phones are better although I'm not completely satisfied with these too. Sometimes I feel that the required volume will hurt my hearing in the long run, so I'm looking for better products." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="969" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="286" RevisionGUID="db9f0fa0-6e36-4810-99c3-0d6feeb9cf76" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:52:34.977" UserId="199" Text="Headphones for filtering out noise in an open-space office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="970" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="286" RevisionGUID="db9f0fa0-6e36-4810-99c3-0d6feeb9cf76" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:52:34.977" UserId="199" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="287" RevisionGUID="23cfc956-1def-4fde-81aa-24f5773974d3" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:53:56.440" UserId="57" Text="If you want to consolidate remote controls, I always recommend a [Logitech Harmony][1]. There are various models that have additional features (ie. touch screens, how many devices it can control at once, quick setup, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One awesome thing about all models of the Harmony, is that they all use the same database for compatibility. You can search if your devices are available: [here][2]. Logitech boasts of [compatibility][3] with 250K+ devices across 7K manufacturers. Chances are high that it is compatible by default. If not, you can still program it using a device's original remote.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I have the [Harmony 650][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Harmony 650][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use it to control a television, receiver, bluray player and stereo. Set up of each device to use the Harmony takes a little bit of time but once a the Harmony knows the device and the on/off macros I use to get everything on and how I want it when I sit to relax, it's very nice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-us/harmony-remotes&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://support.myharmony.com/en-gb/compatibility?utm_source=logitech.com&amp;utm_medium=promo&amp;utm_content=pdp%20-%20footer&amp;utm_campaign=compatibility%20lookup&amp;WT.ac=ps%7C11364%7Clphmcomp-CTA1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Harmony-Remotes/Harmony-Remote-FAQ-Misunderstandings-and-Tips/td-p/211978&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/harmony-remote-650?crid=60&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zJXf6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="972" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="085c0dbd-aed8-4386-9a49-119ed46e9e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:37:25.470" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for a power bank to extend the capacity of my action cam battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Small enough to mount on a bicycle helmet&#xD;&#xA;- Its shape fits well to bicycle helmets&#xD;&#xA;- Possible/easy to mount on a helmet&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1000mAh capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No need to power on, always on (I don't want two handle two power buttons, the one on the camera is enough)&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to mount/unmount (umount for shorter rides, or using more than one for longer rides)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="973" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="085c0dbd-aed8-4386-9a49-119ed46e9e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:37:25.470" UserId="199" Text="Powerbank for bicycle helmets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="974" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="085c0dbd-aed8-4386-9a49-119ed46e9e0f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:37:25.470" UserId="199" Text="&lt;powerbank&gt;&lt;external-battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="975" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="40db409c-ccc4-47f7-8681-cc992ec875e6" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:48:59.147" UserId="199" Comment="edited title" Text="Powerbank for bicycle helmet mounted cameras" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="289" RevisionGUID="5b93eb4d-e9b6-456a-96ef-76f6fad260f5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:13:55.043" UserId="199" Text="Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works properly with Linux 3.2 kernel&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to insert/remove card&#xD;&#xA;- SDXC card support (64-128GB cards)&#xD;&#xA;- SDHC card support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0 interface/speed&#xD;&#xA;- Separate slot for SD and microSD cards (no need for an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried a few SD card readers but none of them worked properly with older Linux kernels/distributions. Usually they recognized the reader and the memory card but there were unreadable files and IO errors. As far as I remember they worked well with Windows so I guess it was a driver bug in Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="978" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="289" RevisionGUID="5b93eb4d-e9b6-456a-96ef-76f6fad260f5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:13:55.043" UserId="199" Text="SDXC/microSDXC memory card reader for older Linux kernels" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="979" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="289" RevisionGUID="5b93eb4d-e9b6-456a-96ef-76f6fad260f5" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:13:55.043" UserId="199" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;&lt;sdxc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="980" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="f20caba6-1b83-4535-910a-280d796be768" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:23:26.207" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what graphics card would run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 24&quot; full-HD monitors&#xD;&#xA; - 1 21&quot; HD-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors support 1920x1080 max resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in the future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My supported connections will be 1 HDMI, 1 HDMI over DVI and a VGA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="981" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="f20caba6-1b83-4535-910a-280d796be768" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:23:26.207" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag" Text="Graphics card that can support three monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="982" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="f20caba6-1b83-4535-910a-280d796be768" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:23:26.207" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title, added relevant tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="08c2e843-cfe1-4b72-9c8f-b621c68b87fb" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:03:59.063" UserId="61" Text="I have some suggestions that might be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal [software][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use [software][3] on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on what DVR unit you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) [Samsung LU28D590DS][4]. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="4e04e3f4-a4ce-45cf-8de7-0e37e325f781" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:10:05.450" UserId="61" Comment="added 114 characters in body" Text="I have some suggestions that might be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal **[software][2]**. Another option that is available now from my understanding is the **[Cadent][3]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use **[software][4]** on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on what DVR unit you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) **[Samsung LU28D590DS][5]**. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://saltlabs.net/cadent&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="986" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="6cd9c7d3-a988-4992-b4b7-c5edebb99094" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:19:16.123" UserId="6" Text="I am on a headset for work several hours each day. I also listen to music extensively at work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently listen to Sennheiser HD 380  headphones as well. My headset is pretty low quality comparatively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like is a good quality headset which has comparable sound quality and comfort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sound quality comparable to my current Sennheiser headphones&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably over-ear entirely (for ambient noise reduction)&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection (acceptable to have 3.5mm audio input, too)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="987" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="6cd9c7d3-a988-4992-b4b7-c5edebb99094" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:19:16.123" UserId="6" Text="USB headset with good headphone quality and comfort?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="988" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="6cd9c7d3-a988-4992-b4b7-c5edebb99094" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:19:16.123" UserId="6" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="989" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="dce539b1-23fd-4403-80f2-6f8dbdfc706f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:21:38.187" UserId="155" Comment="edited title and grammar" Text="Recommendations for a mechanical or traditional keyboard? Which is better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="990" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="dce539b1-23fd-4403-80f2-6f8dbdfc706f" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:21:38.187" UserId="155" Comment="edited title and grammar" Text="I'm wondering what the advantages of using mechanical keyboards vs. traditional keyboards (i.e. membrane keyboards) are. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary uses will be coding, productivity, and avoiding getting RSI. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="5e5783ab-e942-49f6-8424-5578fd468a18" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:31:05.077" UserId="155" Comment="reworded title, removed irrelevant tag" Text="Due to the fact that TrueCrypt is [&quot;not secure&quot;][1] I've been looking for some other way to encrypt the data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WARNING: Using TrueCrypt is not secure as it may contain unfixed security issues&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; You should download TrueCrypt only if you are migrating data encrypted&#xD;&#xA;&gt; by TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://truecrypt.sourceforge.net/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you provide some information about pros &amp; cons connected with hardware-based encryption? What if firmware is controlled by a malicious third-party? I'll be glad if could recommend some SSD which cover the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. There is no problem with BIOS compatibility.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The quality of the encryption is similar to the TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Firmware of the drive haven't been compromised." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="992" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="5e5783ab-e942-49f6-8424-5578fd468a18" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:31:05.077" UserId="155" Comment="reworded title, removed irrelevant tag" Text="Should I buy an SSD with hardware-based full disk encryption?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="993" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="5e5783ab-e942-49f6-8424-5578fd468a18" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:31:05.077" UserId="155" Comment="reworded title, removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="4450de53-fcc5-4057-84b7-423317683341" CreationDate="2015-09-17T00:05:23.207" UserId="6" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I am on a headset for work several hours each day. I also listen to music extensively at work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently listen to Sennheiser HD 380  headphones. My headset is pretty low quality comparatively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like is a good quality headset which has comparable sound quality and comfort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sound quality comparable to my current Sennheiser headphones&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably over-ear entirely (for ambient noise reduction)&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection (acceptable to have 3.5mm audio input, too)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="995" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="a93741e3-9d3c-4733-97ec-48192554d36e" CreationDate="2015-09-17T00:50:14.970" UserId="61" Comment="added 309 characters in body" Text="I have some potential options that may be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 1: Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal **[software][2]**. Another option that is available now from my understanding is the **[Cadent][3]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 2: Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use **[software][4]** on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on the source of the content (camera or central DVR unit) you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 3: The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) **[Samsung LU28D590DS][5]**. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, a DVI cable can be converted to HDMI though a cheap adapter. Likewise a Displayport adapters exist however are slightly more dependent on the source of the single or [require an active signal processer][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://saltlabs.net/cadent&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://tommynation.com/displayport-dvi-adapters-explained/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="292" RevisionGUID="0d8e6cd5-597b-42fa-8c77-ddf129fa9265" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:07:51.707" UserId="155" Text="I recently bought the [Logitech G930](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g930-7-1-wireless-gaming-headset) ($100) headset for gaming and music and I can honestly say it's the best headset I've ever used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Circumaural and fits to ear shape (it isn't circular like most headsets which causes a lot of discomfort after an hour or two of wearing it)&#xD;&#xA;- Dolby 7.1 surround sound that sounds almost just as good as sitting in a room surrounded by a 7.1 setup&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys directly on the headset that can be set to do anything you could ever want (to interact further than is allowed with Windows, see [this SU post](http://superuser.com/a/437959/447245))&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband &amp;mdash; the headband is a semi-memory foam and the ear pads are just foam&#xD;&#xA;- And of course an excellent sound range: 20Hz-20KHz and 30 Ohms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The G930 has a base that connects to the PC via USB, and to charge the headset, a micro USB comes out of the base (a decent length). For the headset to work, a USB wireless receiver can be plugged into the top of the base or directly into the computer. It's a strange setup but it works. Check pictures for more detail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connection thing is greatly outweighed by the good features of this headset. You won't notice it after you set it up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="997" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="35c7530d-fb52-49d6-b14f-6ab3cfe6ebbe" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:12:42.497" UserId="21" Text="I had some wrist rest filled with gel but soon enough they started to deform and become more of a distress than something comfortable. One even leaked a lot of gel in my table and it was a bit messy to clean up. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any comfortable alternatives or even wrist gel brands that are good enough to last for over a year in good condition? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="998" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="35c7530d-fb52-49d6-b14f-6ab3cfe6ebbe" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:12:42.497" UserId="21" Text="Alternatives to wrist rest with gel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="999" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="35c7530d-fb52-49d6-b14f-6ab3cfe6ebbe" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:12:42.497" UserId="21" Text="&lt;gadgets&gt;&lt;comfort&gt;&lt;durable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1000" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="bda3e108-334f-4e2c-adcc-01d73e3c24db" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:16:53.757" UserId="21" Comment="added tags" Text="&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;comfort&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1001" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="bda3e108-334f-4e2c-adcc-01d73e3c24db" CreationDate="2015-09-17T01:16:53.757" Comment="Proposed by 21 approved by 6 edit id of 70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1002" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="0ad7ffd0-9586-4298-b105-1ee92b08428c" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:10:10.557" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1003" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="558836ae-3e6e-464e-86a4-691a4b3016df" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:10:35.110" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1004" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="4404770a-e97c-4b8a-98e3-57a0ccbca27e" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:10:52.523" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1005" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="ba68ad94-f732-4848-8d63-2f8cc59579e0" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:11:22.240" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="fc0b2b0d-b218-4d41-a641-de330b29c01b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:32:58.443" UserId="60" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my previous [question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/239/60), it looks like I will be getting an [Intel i7 5820K Haswell](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product). The only problem is that it doesn't come with a heat sink. In my previous builds, the stock cooler was enough to get the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I will not be overclocking the system, air cooling should be enough. The heat sink must fit the LGA 2011-v3 socket. The case that all of this goes in will be no smaller than an ATX Mid case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What heat sink are worthy of a recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1008" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="fc0b2b0d-b218-4d41-a641-de330b29c01b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:32:58.443" UserId="60" Text="Heat sink for socket LGA 2011-v3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1009" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="fc0b2b0d-b218-4d41-a641-de330b29c01b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:32:58.443" UserId="60" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1010" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="33383f7e-911f-4e86-b4b1-58a0890ad490" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:48:14.220" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:16,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;user36790&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1011" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="295" RevisionGUID="d9babba1-79a1-4dfc-9aaa-811a5a2c3d95" CreationDate="2015-09-17T04:09:40.023" UserId="57" Text="I'm going to recommend the baby brother of Adam's [answer][1]: the [Logitech G430][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech G430][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regular price is around $75. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It fits over the entire ear (and isn't circular). I can wear it for hours at a time with no discomfort. &#xD;&#xA; - 7.1 surround sound. It works very well in both games and movies. &#xD;&#xA; - Noise canceling microphone. Team mates in games mentioned that the clarity is very good (and were appreciative when I started using this headset compared to my cheap previous one).&#xD;&#xA; - The ear cups fold flat, so you can lay it flat on a desk.&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection with on cable controls for volume adjustment and ability to mute the microphone. It is a wired headset, but the cable 7.5 feet long. This length has been fine for me. The headset actually has 3.5mm connections that plug into the USB dongle, if you wish to go that route.&#xD;&#xA;[![3.5mm to USB dongle][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I got my set at QuakeCon 2014 and have nice orange padding vs. the blue that you get at retail. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QuakeCon 2014 G430][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/292/57&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g430-7-1-surround-sound-gaming-headset&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VzbnY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/K2Gxi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/31UTb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="292" RevisionGUID="b3de4746-73ce-4c2b-9197-222b9c362814" CreationDate="2015-09-17T04:32:13.937" UserId="155" Comment="added 210 characters in body" Text="I recently bought the [Logitech G930](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g930-7-1-wireless-gaming-headset) ($100) headset for gaming and music and I can honestly say it's the best headset I've ever used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Circumaural and fits to ear shape (it isn't circular like most headsets which causes a lot of discomfort after an hour or two of wearing it)&#xD;&#xA;- Dolby 7.1 surround sound that sounds almost just as good as sitting in a room surrounded by a 7.1 setup&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys directly on the headset that can be set to do anything you could ever want (to interact further than is allowed with Windows, see [this SU post](http://superuser.com/a/437959/447245))&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband &amp;mdash; the headband is a semi-memory foam and the ear pads are just foam&#xD;&#xA;- Mic that folds up and down &amp;mdash; auto-mutes when folded up (one of the best features IMO)&#xD;&#xA;- The companion Logitech software lets you adjust individual EQ frequencies, channel volumes, and talkback volume&#xD;&#xA;- And of course an excellent sound range: 20Hz-20KHz and 30 Ohms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The G930 has a base that connects to the PC via USB, and to charge the headset, a micro USB comes out of the base (a decent length). For the headset to work, a USB wireless receiver can be plugged into the top of the base or directly into the computer. It's a strange setup but it works. Check pictures for more detail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connection thing is greatly outweighed by the good features of this headset. You won't notice it after you set it up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="296" RevisionGUID="ef62d6e6-30bb-4101-9f2d-ff0ce15fd580" CreationDate="2015-09-17T05:47:38.210" UserId="241" Text="Mandatory webcomic reference: https://xkcd.com/941/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to try creating long-baseline stereoscopic video of clouds.  In order to do this, I need a pair of webcams I can set up 100-300 feet apart to stream video to my laptop.  I figure the best place to set this up is a nearby cliff, but that means I'm somewhat lacking in the usual computer infrastructure (electrical outlets, wireless access points, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Wifi support, preferably ad-hoc mode.&#xD;&#xA;* Powered from batteries (preferable) or with an external power supply I can replace with a battery pack.&#xD;&#xA;* Predictable latency.  If both cameras are showing images from a second ago, it's fine; if one is showing realtime and the other is delayed by random amounts, it throws off the stereo illusion.&#xD;&#xA;* Inexpensive.  I'd really like to keep this under $100 for a pair of webcams; below $50 would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;* Support for Linux (preferable) or Windows XP." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1014" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="296" RevisionGUID="ef62d6e6-30bb-4101-9f2d-ff0ce15fd580" CreationDate="2015-09-17T05:47:38.210" UserId="241" Text="Wireless battery-powered webcam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1015" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="296" RevisionGUID="ef62d6e6-30bb-4101-9f2d-ff0ce15fd580" CreationDate="2015-09-17T05:47:38.210" UserId="241" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1016" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="297" RevisionGUID="d3cef25c-ada3-468e-b6ef-8bfeb4403b50" CreationDate="2015-09-17T06:05:32.663" UserId="155" Text="Whenever I hear &quot;heatsink&quot; I immediately think of the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO](http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-evo/) (~$30). I, along with tons of other people, will instantly recommend this over anything else. It's actually gained sort of a cult following for how great it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fits LGA 2011 sockets and many others&#xD;&#xA;- 2x120mm fans (600-2000 RPM)&#xD;&#xA;- 9-36dB &amp;mdash; 9dB on the lowest setting is **insanely quiet**, 36dB is still great too&#xD;&#xA;- Four pipes and the large number of aluminum fins directly remove heat for faster cooling&#xD;&#xA;- Outstanding performance for pretty much any workload&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course, temperature management is better than average. See [this Tom's Hardware test](http://media.bestofmicro.com/1/B/325343/original/image008.png)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1017" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="ce39df59-6aff-4dc6-bad4-c7bc7faeff3b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T06:12:16.847" UserId="155" Comment="edited tag, altered title" Text="Good heatsink for socket LGA 2011-v3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="30254684-5756-4b61-b8f7-7cc3d5e7b091" CreationDate="2015-09-17T08:09:17.393" UserId="313" Text="I along with my friends are starting up a second-hand book store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we want a portable mobile credit card reader, which is easy on the pocket (as we are a startup, we would be able to shell not more than $100)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the store is a portable set-up such that it can be moved easily from a place to another place, a nice, portable and durable reader is preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No issues with the compatibility, but an Android compatible device would be preferred in case of a specs tie, as most of the team members have an android device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="30254684-5756-4b61-b8f7-7cc3d5e7b091" CreationDate="2015-09-17T08:09:17.393" UserId="313" Text="What are some good mobile credit card readers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="30254684-5756-4b61-b8f7-7cc3d5e7b091" CreationDate="2015-09-17T08:09:17.393" UserId="313" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="47458907-f77f-4429-accf-38492facc946" CreationDate="2015-09-17T11:17:35.817" UserId="313" Comment="Updated the learnings from the comments" Text="I along with my friends are starting up a second-hand book store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we want a portable mobile credit card reader, which is easy on the pocket (as we are a startup, we would be able to shell not more than $100)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the store is a portable set-up such that it can be moved easily from a place to another place, a nice, portable and durable reader is preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No issues with the compatibility, but an Android compatible device would be preferred in case of a specs tie, as most of the team members have an android device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;From the comments, I came to know that it is called a &quot;**Point of Sale**&quot; machine, just in case it might help while answering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1022" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="57fb018f-22c0-484a-a324-0967b689cff9" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:10:10.033" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1023" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="1ba5ba50-1f53-41e3-9a52-4eba41c26352" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:23:40.273" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="299" RevisionGUID="86406eda-0872-41bc-8099-001391b79fc7" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:44:30.183" UserId="57" Text="I recommend Square's [card reader][1]. You can get the magstripe reader for free from Square. This should imply to you that most of their service is on the software side. They also advertise a [contactless reader][2] for NFC and chip cards as &quot;coming soon&quot;, though you can reserver it for free. If you don't care about the &quot;contactless&quot; part, they have a reader that will read the new chip cards already available for $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Square Reader][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had the magstripe reader for a few years. I use it for personal payments. It's supported every Android device I've had since the OS was version 2.0. It also supports my iPad and has run just fine through all OS upgrades in the next few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have [additional][4] software related features you may find useful, though I can't vouch for any of those. These include a full PoS system, employee management, a market place and the ability to set up an online store through them. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Importantly, their [rates][5] are reasonable (for my limited use):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Per swipe, sale on the Online store or Square Invoices: *2.75%*   (Swipe in $100, and you get $97.25)&#xD;&#xA; - Per manually entered transaction: *3.5% + 15 cents* (Enter $100 and you get $96.35)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Both methods accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express (with the same rates). Deposits go into your bank account within two business days. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;As I said above, I use my Square reader for personal things. Usually payments among friends/family. I've also used it when hosting a garage sale. I feel that was very helpful in getting rid of more &quot;stuff&quot;, compared to previous years where I didn't use the reader. Square will email a receipt to the customer and Square protects you for a small amount of chargebacks (though, I have never used this feature).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://squareup.com/reader&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://squareup.com/contactless-chip-reader&#xD;&#xA; [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LIZQC.jpg&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://squareup.com/shop&#xD;&#xA; [5]: https://squareup.com/pricing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LIZQC.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1025" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="83bd80d3-493a-47de-8581-f653e1e1d240" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:47:09.727" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="93424640-04b0-4b38-bb2a-450757e804f6" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:14:28.717" UserId="60" Comment="Added more info to question" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my previous [question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/239/60), it looks like I will be getting an [Intel i7 5820K Haswell](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product). The only problem is that it doesn't come with a heat sink. In my previous builds, the stock cooler was enough to get the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I will not be overclocking the system, air cooling should be enough. The heat sink must fit the LGA 2011-v3 socket. The case that all of this goes in will be no smaller than an ATX Mid case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since there are many options, I will try to narrow it down. I don't care about the noise level, as long as it doesn't sound like a jet engine. It should be more effective at cooling than the average heat sink. I am hoping that I can purchase one for less than $50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which heat sinks are worthy of a recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1027" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="3ca08fbb-5942-492f-acdf-6ade14e125e5" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:32:46.237" UserId="60" Comment="Added [point-of-sale] tag." Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1028" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="298" RevisionGUID="3ca08fbb-5942-492f-acdf-6ade14e125e5" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:32:46.237" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 313 edit id of 71" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="4b6672b3-8f13-4bb3-a79d-baa1a1b64df0" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:09:47.210" UserId="279" Text="I have a galaxy s4 mini phone, and the stock battery doesn't usually last me the full day. Do 3rd party batteries work well? Is there any battery that has a longer life than the stock battery? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="4b6672b3-8f13-4bb3-a79d-baa1a1b64df0" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:09:47.210" UserId="279" Text="Better battery for a galaxy s4 mini?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="4b6672b3-8f13-4bb3-a79d-baa1a1b64df0" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:09:47.210" UserId="279" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="299" RevisionGUID="1ff766e3-b9e0-4292-89c0-8baf68f3d4d5" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:24:18.103" UserId="57" Comment="fixes silly typo" Text="I recommend Square's [card reader][1]. You can get the magstripe reader for free from Square. This should imply to you that most of their service is on the software side. They also advertise a [contactless reader][2] for NFC and chip cards as &quot;coming soon&quot;, though you can reserve it for free. If you don't care about the &quot;contactless&quot; part, they have a reader that will read the new chip cards already available for $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Square Reader][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had the magstripe reader for a few years. I use it for personal payments. It's supported every Android device I've had since the OS was version 2.0. It also supports my iPad and has run just fine through all OS upgrades in the next few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have [additional][4] software related features you may find useful, though I can't vouch for any of those. These include a full PoS system, employee management, a market place and the ability to set up an online store through them. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Importantly, their [rates][5] are reasonable (for my limited use):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Per swipe, sale on the Online store or Square Invoices: *2.75%*   (Swipe in $100, and you get $97.25)&#xD;&#xA; - Per manually entered transaction: *3.5% + 15 cents* (Enter $100 and you get $96.35)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Both methods accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express (with the same rates). Deposits go into your bank account within two business days. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;As I said above, I use my Square reader for personal things. Usually payments among friends/family. I've also used it when hosting a garage sale. I feel that was very helpful in getting rid of more &quot;stuff&quot;, compared to previous years where I didn't use the reader. Square will email a receipt to the customer and Square protects you for a small amount of charge backs (though, I have never used this feature).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://squareup.com/reader&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://squareup.com/contactless-chip-reader&#xD;&#xA; [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LIZQC.jpg&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://squareup.com/shop&#xD;&#xA; [5]: https://squareup.com/pricing&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="301" RevisionGUID="78963bc1-4d48-4944-8133-c040e0fee0fd" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:31:28.337" UserId="30" Text="I’m looking for a tablet that ships with FLOSS (Free/Libre Open Source Software) only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the [FLOSS smartphone (which I‘m also looking for)](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30), I was willing to accept the compromise that firmware/drivers may still be proprietary; however, this is not acceptable for the tablet. *Everything* has to be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price, size, and hardware specifications don’t matter. No need for SIM card support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements (no compromises):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* all pre-installed software (e.g., firmware/drivers, operating system, apps, modifications) has to be **FLOSS** (i.e., licensed under a license [approved by the FSF and/or the OSI](http://opensource.stackexchange.com/a/383/138))&#xD;&#xA;* it has a **touchscreen**&#xD;&#xA;* it has to support **WLAN**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (would be great):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* slot for **SD card**&#xD;&#xA;* **USB** port (which allows to connect it to a PC where folders/files can be read/written, just like with a regular USB stick)&#xD;&#xA;* **Bluetooth** support&#xD;&#xA;* no void of **warranty** because of installing a different OS&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1034" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="301" RevisionGUID="78963bc1-4d48-4944-8133-c040e0fee0fd" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:31:28.337" UserId="30" Text="Tablet that comes with 100% FLOSS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1035" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="301" RevisionGUID="78963bc1-4d48-4944-8133-c040e0fee0fd" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:31:28.337" UserId="30" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="302" RevisionGUID="061c5f72-d6f7-4ca6-8e7f-43a9a8ed4ce2" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:48:03.960" UserId="26" Text="I personally use [Etymotic HF5](http://smile.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-Portable-Earphones-Cobalt/dp/B000XP8DJC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442508123&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=etymotic+hf5), and have used the cheaper ER-6i in the past (though I think they replaced that with the MC5). The Etymotics are in-ear-canal phones, and function as ear plugs, giving over a [35dB reduction](http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/earphones/hf5.html) in sound levels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also play music really well, even at quite low volumes. That 35dB of noise isolation goes a long way to letting you listen at low volumes—you can listen low enough that quietly humming to yourself (not blocked by earplugs because that vibration is not carried via air) will drown out the music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One tip: The cord carries vibrations like crazy. Not a huge problem sitting in a chair, but moving it is. Greatly improved by having the cord exit the earphone towards the bottom-front of your ear, then wrapping the cord over the top of your ear—that stops almost all vibration noises.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW: There are cheaper earphones of a similar style. Haven't used them so I can't vouch for them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="303" RevisionGUID="e415dd4f-c8e8-4c4c-84aa-1bb983f8dd56" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:16:52.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="304" RevisionGUID="b79f104b-315b-441e-978a-1a23deb2fd29" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:16:52.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="305" RevisionGUID="d916f5ca-5da9-4edc-8bc7-967cc2cc8be2" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:19:23.377" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="306" RevisionGUID="69ad549b-9a90-4f30-99d7-62ac3a44108e" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:19:23.377" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1042" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="299" RevisionGUID="6d8f89af-cede-4c37-891a-e6414057d9eb" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:26:51.987" UserId="57" Comment="last not next" Text="I recommend Square's [card reader][1]. You can get the magstripe reader for free from Square. This should imply to you that most of their service is on the software side. They also advertise a [contactless reader][2] for NFC and chip cards as &quot;coming soon&quot;, though you can reserve it for free. If you don't care about the &quot;contactless&quot; part, they have a reader that will read the new chip cards already available for $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Square Reader][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had the magstripe reader for a few years. I use it for personal payments. It's supported every Android device I've had since the OS was version 2.0. It also supports my iPad and has run just fine through all OS upgrades in the last few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have [additional][4] software related features you may find useful, though I can't vouch for any of those. These include a full PoS system, employee management, a market place and the ability to set up an online store through them. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Importantly, their [rates][5] are reasonable (for my limited use):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Per swipe, sale on the Online store or Square Invoices: *2.75%*   (Swipe in $100, and you get $97.25)&#xD;&#xA; - Per manually entered transaction: *3.5% + 15 cents* (Enter $100 and you get $96.35)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Both methods accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express (with the same rates). Deposits go into your bank account within two business days. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;As I said above, I use my Square reader for personal things. Usually payments among friends/family. I've also used it when hosting a garage sale. I feel that was very helpful in getting rid of more &quot;stuff&quot;, compared to previous years where I didn't use the reader. Square will email a receipt to the customer and Square protects you for a small amount of charge backs (though, I have never used this feature).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://squareup.com/reader&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://squareup.com/contactless-chip-reader&#xD;&#xA; [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LIZQC.jpg&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://squareup.com/shop&#xD;&#xA; [5]: https://squareup.com/pricing&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="4306df33-14af-4145-9109-f6237b10ec62" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:43:45.307" UserId="61" Comment="edited body" Text="I have some potential options that may be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 1: Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal **[software][2]**. Another option that is available now from my understanding is the **[Cadent][3]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 2: Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use **[software][4]** on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on the source of the content (camera or central DVR unit) you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 3: The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) **[Samsung LU28D590DS][5]**. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, a DVI cable can be converted to HDMI though a cheap adapter. Likewise a Displayport adapters exist however are slightly more dependent on the source of the signal or [require an active signal processer][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://saltlabs.net/cadent&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://tommynation.com/displayport-dvi-adapters-explained/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="39ab20e5-32f7-48e6-9fa1-93e33a8c048d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T18:41:14.980" UserId="24" Text="I want to make an AP from a Linux PC with an usb wifi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tries until now weren't really succesful: either the driver missed the AP capability feature, or the signal strength was negligible even from the next room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be really glad to reduce the costly buy-try-throw cycle, anybody has a good experience with a such thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it is impossible (for example the power is not enough on the usb bus), PCI card would be also okay (I've tried one with an atheros chipset, but the signal strength was with it also negligible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it needs a little bit of sw/hw hacking, it is not a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1045" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="39ab20e5-32f7-48e6-9fa1-93e33a8c048d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T18:41:14.980" UserId="24" Text="Usb wifi stick or PCI wifi card with ap capability on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1046" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="39ab20e5-32f7-48e6-9fa1-93e33a8c048d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T18:41:14.980" UserId="24" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="308" RevisionGUID="25cffb46-35d3-45db-aacf-9709dc691aed" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:07:38.553" UserId="159" Text="I currently use an LG 29UM67 which is a 21:9 monitor which supports the features you are talking about. I was able to get it on Amazon for about 350USD and it supports upto 4 inputs simultaneously, either with different inputs or daisy chaining I believe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a link to LG's website for the same - http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM67-P-ultrawide-led-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1048" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="92be8c95-8183-4d60-aad4-1f7ceb974d2d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:16:59.443" UserId="24" Comment="sentence using mode enabled, abbrevation out" Text="I have many video output that I would like to simultaneously overview with a control monitor, but I don't want to buy a monitor for each video output itself. So I'm looking for a similar solution what we can see at surveillance systems, where the monitor is connected to a DVR unit, which processes multiple camera images, and we can see them displayed in some kind of grid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVR monitor][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device for regular VGA or HDMI output? It doesn't matter if it is built into the monitor itself, or if it has for example 4 or more inputs with one output I can connect to a monitor. It would be nice if the output layout could be configurable to different layout style like in the picture below, but it isn't a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Multiple video output layout styles][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ga1jV.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FbldS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1049" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="92be8c95-8183-4d60-aad4-1f7ceb974d2d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:16:59.443" UserId="24" Comment="sentence using mode enabled, abbrevation out" Text="Is there a monitor or converter that I can use to watch for video output in one screen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1050" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="92be8c95-8183-4d60-aad4-1f7ceb974d2d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:16:59.443" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by -1 edit id of 75" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1051" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="f3709208-fc11-4407-a12f-60fc18323bed" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:16:59.443" UserId="155" Comment="altered title, improved grammar" Text="I have many video outputs that I would like to simultaneously overview with a control monitor, but I don't want to buy a monitor for each video output itself. So I'm looking for a similar solution what we can see at surveillance systems, where the monitor is connected to a DVR unit, which processes multiple camera images, and we can see them displayed in some kind of grid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVR monitor][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device for regular VGA or HDMI outputs? It doesn't matter if it is built into the monitor itself or if it has, for example, 4 or more inputs with one output I can connect to a monitor. It would be nice if the output layout could be configurable to different layout styles like in the picture below, but it isn't a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Multiple video output layout styles][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ga1jV.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FbldS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1052" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="f3709208-fc11-4407-a12f-60fc18323bed" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:16:59.443" UserId="155" Comment="altered title, improved grammar" Text="Is there a monitor or converter I can use to watch 4 video outputs on one screen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="ac908e8b-03b9-4c5a-a315-4a931a7e9f3d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:22:51.877" UserId="313" Comment="Fixed formatting" Text="I want to make an AP from a Linux PC with an USB wi-fi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My attempts until now weren't really successful; either the driver missed the AP capability feature, or the signal strength was negligible even from the next room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be really glad to reduce the costly buy-try-throw cycle, anybody has a good experience with such a thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it is impossible (for example the power is not enough on the USB bus), PCI card would be also okay (I've tried one with an atheros chipset, but the signal strength was with it also negligible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it needs a little bit of sw/hw hacking, it is not a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1054" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="ac908e8b-03b9-4c5a-a315-4a931a7e9f3d" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:22:51.877" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 24 edit id of 76" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="baa5456b-a723-4d35-aeed-9a38b729f390" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:45:41.830" UserId="57" Comment="removed &quot;edit&quot;" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what graphics card would run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 24&quot; full-HD monitors&#xD;&#xA; - 1 21&quot; HD-ready monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All monitors support 1920x1080 max resolution. My supported connections will be 1 HDMI, 1 HDMI over DVI and a VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that in the future I might upgrade the 21&quot; monitor to a 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1056" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="baa5456b-a723-4d35-aeed-9a38b729f390" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:45:41.830" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 8, 155 edit id of 72" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="318" RevisionGUID="6c8aad72-6d03-4ad9-9df9-86bb4e45a2e9" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:59:50.033" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="319" RevisionGUID="fcfceeb7-7973-4a7e-ad82-1e42f143feb6" CreationDate="2015-09-17T22:19:12.387" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1070" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="322" RevisionGUID="a29e9fb0-2df2-4de0-ad73-a7c6b9af8ac7" CreationDate="2015-09-17T22:25:15.063" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="ef0eb5b8-8f06-4e40-a19a-f9884675606b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T22:32:52.610" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="I have a Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini phone, and the stock battery doesn't usually last me the full day. Do 3rd party batteries work well? Is there any battery that has a longer life than the stock battery? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1072" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="ef0eb5b8-8f06-4e40-a19a-f9884675606b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T22:32:52.610" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="Better battery for a Galaxy S4 Mini?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1073" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="300" RevisionGUID="ef0eb5b8-8f06-4e40-a19a-f9884675606b" CreationDate="2015-09-17T22:32:52.610" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 155, 279 edit id of 78" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1077" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="ad7958aa-7703-434c-8301-0be8c6f35bfb" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:39:57.507" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:84,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;feetwet&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:150,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;HDE 226868&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1078" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="297" RevisionGUID="51123341-1d81-4871-a2b3-b54bedbadc08" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:44:10.800" UserId="155" Comment="added info" Text="Whenever I hear &quot;heatsink&quot; I immediately think of the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO](http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-evo/) (~$30). I, along with tons of other people, will instantly recommend this over anything else. It's actually gained sort of a cult following for how great it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fits LGA 2011 sockets and many others&#xD;&#xA;- 2x120mm fans (600-2000 RPM)&#xD;&#xA;- 9-36dB &amp;mdash; 9dB on the lowest setting is **insanely quiet**, 36dB is still great too&#xD;&#xA;- Four pipes and the large number of aluminum fins directly remove heat for faster cooling&#xD;&#xA;- Outstanding performance for pretty much any workload&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course, temperature management is awesome for the price. [This graph](http://www.ocinside.de/media/uploads/cpu_cooler_compare_full_rpm.jpg) shows the 212 EVO's idle and load temperatures compared to others of the same capacity. It isn't the coolest heatsink on the market right now &amp;mdash; you can get unimaginably cool ones now &amp;mdash; but since heatsinks are, after all, all about temperature, price goes way up as temp goes down. The 212 EVO sits at above average in every category." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1079" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="cb1a3a9c-4cf0-487f-9f82-393f3e077007" CreationDate="2015-09-18T00:59:24.470" UserId="128" Text="I've got a 13&quot; laptop that I've had for a few years now, and it's been working perfectly until a couple weeks ago. It's a Dell Inspiron laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, a few weeks ago, one of the fan has burnt out, and is completely unusable. As a result, the computer overheats fairly quickly, even on minimal usage. Whenever I open up a browser, or my IDE, I run a deep risk of overheating my computer: and as a result, it shuts down immediately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any good computer fans, ideally powered by USB, that would work as a way to prevent my computer from overheating? It should be able to trap heat effectively from the right side to be vented out. I've got a price range of about $20, and it should be quiet, and durable (last me about 1-2 years) while I wait to get a new laptop :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1080" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="cb1a3a9c-4cf0-487f-9f82-393f3e077007" CreationDate="2015-09-18T00:59:24.470" UserId="128" Text="Fan for over-heating computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1081" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="cb1a3a9c-4cf0-487f-9f82-393f3e077007" CreationDate="2015-09-18T00:59:24.470" UserId="128" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ventilation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="86b7135f-f93c-4a87-a9ed-3850989b45d5" CreationDate="2015-09-18T01:20:00.750" UserId="65" Text="What is the least expensive Netflix client device that supports HDMI 1080p output and has a remote control?  It can be wired or wireless.  Bonus points it it has the ability to play video from the local LAN." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1083" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="86b7135f-f93c-4a87-a9ed-3850989b45d5" CreationDate="2015-09-18T01:20:00.750" UserId="65" Text="Cheapest 1080p HDMI Netflix device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1084" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="86b7135f-f93c-4a87-a9ed-3850989b45d5" CreationDate="2015-09-18T01:20:00.750" UserId="65" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="5999ca3e-1cc7-4519-8295-b0f7b6b492fd" CreationDate="2015-09-18T02:46:10.707" UserId="65" Comment="added research" Text="What is the least expensive Netflix client device that supports HDMI 1080p output and has a remote control?  It can be wired or wireless.  Bonus points it it has the ability to play video from the local LAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this [Netgear NeoTV](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-NeoTV-Streaming-Player-NTV300/dp/B0092U3TKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442544213&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=netflix+device) box on Amazon for $27.95 plus shipping, and it appears to meet my criteria, but are there any less expensive devices that will do the same thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="326" RevisionGUID="56c6d39b-6b90-43ac-93c5-f13ef8d8f959" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:20:30.593" UserId="276" Text="First of all, a small disclaimer. Bear in mind that whatever external fans which you may feasibly buy and install, will provide much less efficient cooling than an internal one, mostly due to proximity and heat dissipation efficiency (there's a reason why the fan is usually close to the heatsink, which is in direct contact with the CPU).  Running the computer under these conditions will have a high risk of damage due to overheating.  Now, on to your actual question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had heating issues with previous Dell laptops that I've owned (Vostro, Inspiron), and have used cooling pads/mats to great effect.  In particular, Cooler Master makes good cooling pads, like [this slim cooling pad in your price range](http://amzn.com/B005C31HC0 &quot;a good cooling pad like this one&quot;).  I would definitely recommend something like this for a simple, store-bought solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also go for a more involved, probably more expensive and DIY solution, like building your own fan assembly with a high-performance fan (such as [this one from Noctua, which makes some of the best air coolers for CPUs](http://amzn.com/B00CP6QLY6 &quot;noctua 14mm fan&quot;)).  I have no experience with something like this, other than putting together cooling kits, but I would think they may give you better cooling performance.  Then again, they might not.  I would recommend this only if you like the challenge of building it, which might be really fun :).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best of luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="327" RevisionGUID="0fb270a2-d905-494c-8487-3ecb2adffb70" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:33:23.640" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="328" RevisionGUID="ff8e80d1-4b6c-4e7d-8580-629eed0d2bc5" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:33:23.640" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="329" RevisionGUID="4c708ad9-9ecc-4b0a-84dd-31032400b61a" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:44:18.023" UserId="276" Text="You might consider just adding a microphone to your setup (i.e. &quot;convert&quot; your headphones to a headset), like [this lapel microphone from Zalman](http://amzn.com/B00029MTMQ). That's what I've bought to use with my Sennheiser HD558's to great effect, and it costs around $9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![External Zalman lapel microphone][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also purchase a USB sound system, like [this Creative X-Fi external pre-amp and sound system](http://amzn.com/B004275EO4), which you can get for around $90.  I'm not an audiophile (though I enjoy good sound), and I don't think that's audiophile quality - but if you're into good sound without being an audiophile, that's probably a good setup.  The upside is, you don't have to change your current headphones and you will get a better sound than other systems, in my humble opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Creative X-Fi sound console][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Best of luck with your search, and have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bu17C.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ncoPc.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1090" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="7ed4c659-ec7c-40d1-9d0f-0c428b2226fd" CreationDate="2015-09-18T08:44:08.450" UserDisplayName="user16" Comment="added 1271 characters in body" Text="I have read in many places online that a good smartphone camera doesn't solely depend on the amount of pixels. So, what else should I look in order to choose a good camera in a smartphone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry, to the community at the outset for not being clear to the specifications of my requirements; I was taking a photo of two rainbow(a very rare thing) at the time prior to twilight. I had Nokia 6700c(5 MP) &amp; took the photo but unfortunately all but the rainbows were in the photo. I then took the photo using my laptop's front camera(HP 2000) &amp; though it was only  2 MP, it could take the image of the rainbow but only a single one with fine grains around it(which after googling, I saw it as _noise_; thanks to @feetwet). So, 2MP performed better than 5MP! But still the photo was not clear enough to catch the image of second rainbow. Also, I never could take the image of a distant plane neither by the phone nor by my laptop; no matter at what proximity the plane was, it always appeared as dot in the photo but the laptop still performed well w.r.t. the phone. I like to take the images of clouds, sky, halos of moon, planes, birds hovering etc... I only wanted to know why my laptop performed better than my phone despite my phone being superior w.r.t. pixels. Also, I do want to know what to use in order to remove those grains or _noise_ &amp; take the image of rainbow at twilight or prior to that; for all that, is pixel important or something else?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="dd1e357f-9b06-42d3-8b72-cddcfbe0e2cf" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:12:13.923" UserId="97" Text="I have a PostgreSQL server which occasionally hangs for a long time on writes to my hard disks. Sometimes the fsync system calls takes more than two minutes to complete.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I am wondering if moving the database from an mdadm RAID-1 on two hard disks to an mdadm RAID-1 on two SSDs will improve performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for random access reads an SSD will easily outperform a hard disk. But that is not very important to me as I have enough memory to cache the entire database multiple times over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also know that write performance on an SSD is not nearly as good as the read performance. But I don't know how it compares to write performance on a hard disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I move the database to SSD, can I expect improved write performance? If this depends on which SSD I choose, which specs on the SSD are important for me to consider?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="dd1e357f-9b06-42d3-8b72-cddcfbe0e2cf" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:12:13.923" UserId="97" Text="Will switching to SSD improve my write performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="dd1e357f-9b06-42d3-8b72-cddcfbe0e2cf" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:12:13.923" UserId="97" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="331" RevisionGUID="76677ccf-566b-4f69-b379-279c4836d853" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:24:59.573" UserId="248" Text="The answer is simple: yes, switching from HDDs to SSDs is a huge improvement but that depends on the write and read speed of the SSDs themselves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I gave up a 1TB HDD for a 240GBs SSD and it was the best choice ever. (programming, OS and gaming refference)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SSD's write and read speeds are different from one SSD to another. Personally I have one with the same write&amp;read speed, about 540MBs/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It depends on the manufacturer and also the product itself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1096" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="332" RevisionGUID="61fccec0-7efc-46f5-ae52-bd40ebc12855" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:54:33.653" UserId="97" Text="I have a Logitech G930 headset, which I am quite happy with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Good quality speakers&#xD;&#xA;- Good quality microphone&#xD;&#xA;- Good wireless range&#xD;&#xA;- Microphone mute button on the headset&#xD;&#xA;- Has a practical base with a long wire for charging with a connector of better quality than most other micro USB chargers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the negative side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If the microphone touches something the noise feeds back through the speakers. (Even if the microphone is muted.)&#xD;&#xA;- If you temporarily move out of wireless range while microphone is muted it gets un-muted as you move back within range.&#xD;&#xA;- You will hear an annoying noise if you stay just on the edge of wireless range.&#xD;&#xA;- The microphone on my first G930 broke after about a year. (But I was happy enough with my experience that I did use the refund I got under the warranty to buy a new G930).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speakers do cover the ears and keeps out most of the ambient noise as you are asking for. Keeping out ambient noise can be a plus or a minus depending on circumstances, for example you might want to be able to hear a phone or a door bell." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="332" RevisionGUID="e6557c20-b181-4e6d-ba80-e5bdafd2902e" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:01:22.993" UserId="97" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="I have a Logitech G930 headset, which I am quite happy with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Good quality speakers&#xD;&#xA;- Good quality microphone&#xD;&#xA;- Good wireless range&#xD;&#xA;- Microphone mute button on the headset&#xD;&#xA;- Microphone automatically mutes when folded up&#xD;&#xA;- Has a practical base with a long wire for charging with a connector of better quality than most other micro USB chargers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the negative side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If the microphone touches something the noise feeds back through the speakers. (Even if the microphone is muted.)&#xD;&#xA;- If you temporarily move out of wireless range while microphone is muted it gets un-muted as you move back within range.&#xD;&#xA;- You will hear an annoying noise if you stay just on the edge of wireless range.&#xD;&#xA;- The microphone on my first G930 broke after about a year. (But I was happy enough with my experience that I did use the refund I got under the warranty to buy a new G930).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speakers do cover the ears and keeps out most of the ambient noise as you are asking for. Keeping out ambient noise can be a plus or a minus depending on circumstances, for example you might want to be able to hear a phone or a door bell." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="143b2c41-2b76-4bcc-ac72-400597d723ce" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:05:30.403" UserId="155" Comment="changed tags" Text="I have a PostgreSQL server which occasionally hangs for a long time on writes to my hard disks. Sometimes the fsync system calls take more than two minutes to complete.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I am wondering if moving the database from an mdadm RAID-1 on two hard disks to an mdadm RAID-1 on two SSDs will improve performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for random access reads an SSD will easily outperform a hard disk. But that is not very important to me as I have enough memory to cache the entire database multiple times over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also know that write performance on an SSD is not nearly as good as the read performance. But I don't know how it compares to write performance on a hard disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I move the database to SSD, can I expect improved write performance? If this depends on which SSD I choose, which specs on the SSD are important for me to consider?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1099" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="143b2c41-2b76-4bcc-ac72-400597d723ce" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:05:30.403" UserId="155" Comment="changed tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1100" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="292" RevisionGUID="d9abb97e-1899-47ff-acea-fb354394f6e7" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:10:01.970" UserId="155" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="I recently bought the [Logitech G930](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g930-7-1-wireless-gaming-headset) ($100) headset for gaming and music and I can honestly say it's the best headset I've ever used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Circumaural and fits to ear shape (it isn't circular like most headsets &amp;mdash; something that causes a lot of discomfort after an hour or two of wearing it)&#xD;&#xA;- Dolby 7.1 surround sound that sounds almost just as good as sitting in a room surrounded by a 7.1 setup&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys  and volume directly on the headset that can be set to do anything you could ever want (to interact with Windows further than is allowed, see [this SU post](http://superuser.com/a/437959/447245))&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband &amp;mdash; the headband is a semi-memory foam and the ear pads are just foam&#xD;&#xA;- Mic that folds up and down &amp;mdash; auto-mutes when folded up (one of the best features IMO)&#xD;&#xA;- The companion Logitech software lets you adjust individual EQ frequencies, channel volumes, and talkback volume&#xD;&#xA;- And of course an excellent sound range: 20Hz-20KHz and 30 Ohms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The G930 has a base that connects to the PC via USB, and to charge the headset, a micro USB comes out of the base (a decent length). For the headset to work, a USB wireless receiver can be plugged into the top of the base or directly into the computer. It's a strange setup but it works. Check pictures for more detail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connection thing is greatly outweighed by the good features of this headset. You won't notice it after you set it up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1101" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="cf624111-9f1f-4e3e-9ebb-3c8589fd0cc8" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:25:13.560" UserId="21" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1102" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="b61af89b-0aaa-4b62-8fcf-339a16cb9cc0" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:34:53.823" UserId="21" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1103" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="333" RevisionGUID="6e3fc7ca-c991-492e-944e-54283268213c" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:37:44.753" UserId="102" Text="The [Logitech MX Master](https://secure.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-master) has a configurable scroll wheel which you can customize to either click-by-click or autoscroll.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quote (emphasis mine):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Speed-adaptive scroll wheel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Scroll through long documents or web pages faster and easier. The precision wheel auto-shifts from click-to-click to hyper-fast scroll.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ***Logitech Options™ software lets you customize this experience.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The scroll wheel is also the middle mouse button&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic form factor that's not specific to gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://secure.logitech.com/assets/53166/mx-master.png)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1104" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="334" RevisionGUID="c52dfe1f-d4e8-4dfa-a971-8af51c5dd221" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:33:51.703" UserId="203" Text="It depends mainly on the type of NAND the SSD uses, and also somewhat on the controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Higher quality SLC NAND stores one bit per cell. This make the cells much faster and longer lived, whereas MLC and TLC (2 bits and 3 bits) degrade more easily and are harder to read and write, especially write. Since the MLC SSDs are more common, most SSDs *do* have slow writes (compared to their reads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just run out and get the cheapest SSD, you're likely to find yourself something faster than a HDD by only the slightest margins in read speed, like the Kingston SSDVNow. In some circumstances, this SSD **will be slower than a HDD.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Larger SSDs are also faster, because they're composed of multiple chips effectively in RAID 0 (it's similar)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OCZ Vertex, Sandisk Extreme and Samsung Pro are all models to look for if you want the fastest performance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you're on a budget (who isn't), the Samsung EVO, OCZ ARC (they've renamed their mid range a few times, but I'm pretty sure this is the newest), and the Crucial MX range are easier on the wallet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be sure to find some benchmarks before you buy, and remember that the newest isn't always the best. The older SSDs on larger processes are often longer lived, if you're making lots of writes. Also check out the newer SSDs with 3D V-NAND if you're concerned." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1106" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="271" RevisionGUID="abeaef63-fbe8-4a60-9e25-65c4c614361b" CreationDate="2015-09-18T15:34:51.887" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="1. In terms of price it would be better to choose Windows. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Front-end developers often use Macs because of the **healthy balance between unix-based system and &quot;working out of the box&quot;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. There was an option to install Photoshop CS2 on Ubuntu. I wish it could be possible for every version :D. http://www.omgubuntu.co.uk/2013/01/photoshop-cs2-available-for-free-works-fine-in-wine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to @Adam's answer, I can say that using Sublime Text with some Live Reload plugin will do a better job than Notepad++. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your case the most important part is connected with browser compatibility rather than system itself. The only program that needs better hardware is Photoshop but it also depends on the size of the project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Console in Windows is not a big problem because you can do a lot of things in the browser's built-in inspector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Running a server on your localhost is easy too. They are plenty of tools like [XAMPP][1] which contain basic software in one package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.apachefriends.org/pl/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="328" RevisionGUID="047a6846-6331-4b3b-a7c6-dd926b702166" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:32.020" UserId="1" Comment="added 83 characters in body" Text="For questions asking for a device that communicates over USB, Universal Serial Bus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1108" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="328" RevisionGUID="047a6846-6331-4b3b-a7c6-dd926b702166" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:32.020" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 86" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="320" RevisionGUID="c122f99d-3e09-4175-9702-05b928970513" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:40.000" UserId="155" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="For questions related to drives connecting to computers via Serial Advanced Technology Attachment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1110" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="320" RevisionGUID="c122f99d-3e09-4175-9702-05b928970513" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:40.000" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 84" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1111" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="306" RevisionGUID="112d66a3-ca37-4779-96ca-63aacc536a41" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:48.943" UserId="57" Comment="added 194 characters in body" Text="The location that a sale of a good or service is made. This tag should be used for any hardware used at the point of a sale (card readers, NFC readers, PIN entry, Point of sale terminals, etc). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1112" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="306" RevisionGUID="112d66a3-ca37-4779-96ca-63aacc536a41" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:18:48.943" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 74" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="314" RevisionGUID="9563c73c-bbac-4919-ab15-3e4091675b85" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:27.950" UserId="155" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning hardware that will be used for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1114" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="314" RevisionGUID="9563c73c-bbac-4919-ab15-3e4091675b85" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:27.950" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 81" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="318" RevisionGUID="e3970a73-4718-4d71-85d4-9b8c99a77112" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:33.613" UserId="155" Comment="added 53 characters in body" Text="For questions related to extremely compact computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1116" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="318" RevisionGUID="e3970a73-4718-4d71-85d4-9b8c99a77112" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:33.613" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 83" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="316" RevisionGUID="781739fd-4489-4bab-b015-71698d0c6ce4" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:46.510" UserId="155" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="FLOSS is free/libre/open-source software, a type of software which allows the public to freely study, reuse, and alter its source code." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1118" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="316" RevisionGUID="781739fd-4489-4bab-b015-71698d0c6ce4" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:19:46.510" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 82" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="335" RevisionGUID="83050838-443b-483b-a6bc-e262951aae90" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:50:11.940" UserId="97" Text="I have a standard SATA drive which I want to access over the network. I have an available 1Gbit/s port on a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the minimum hardware which will allow me to connect this SATA drive to the network and allow a single host on the network to speak SATA with drive at close to 1Gbit/s speeds?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at NAS solutions, but what I have found so far would have the NAS act as a file server rather than simply encapsulating the SATA protocol in Ethernet or IP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a piece of hardware, which will just provide power to the drive and encapsulate the SATA protocol in Ethernet or IP?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1120" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="335" RevisionGUID="83050838-443b-483b-a6bc-e262951aae90" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:50:11.940" UserId="97" Text="Hardware capable of running SATA over Ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1121" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="335" RevisionGUID="83050838-443b-483b-a6bc-e262951aae90" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:50:11.940" UserId="97" Text="&lt;sata&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1123" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="46e51ab9-1321-4533-901d-b42b8a2e8a75" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:56:44.297" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:67,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JonasCz&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="389b26f5-f08b-4001-86ee-b10b4273e2e9" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:09:58.150" UserId="67" Text="I'm looking for a dedicated audio recording device. I'm looking for something under $30 (or a bit more), and which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has a 3.5mm connector mic socket, which also works with line-level audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has good audio quality, which means no noises from the device itself, at least 44.1khz and stereo recording to WAV or some other lossless format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has adjustable audio level, as well as displaying the audio level. Bonus points if you can hear what you're recording through the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus points if it takes SD or MicroSD cards instead of having built in storage, both to keep the cost down and because then I can swap out the card when it is full. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't really care about the quality of the microphone, as I have my own high quality one. Would be even better if it has _no_ built in mic - again, saves on price, and I would not use it much anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around a bit, and devices with good quality start at around $60, so if I could get something like that, just without the built in mic and storage, that would work well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like this exist ? Any recommendations ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1125" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="389b26f5-f08b-4001-86ee-b10b4273e2e9" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:09:58.150" UserId="67" Text="A Dedicated audio recording device with 3.5mm input and under $30?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1126" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="389b26f5-f08b-4001-86ee-b10b4273e2e9" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:09:58.150" UserId="67" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="337" RevisionGUID="9c380024-75bc-4681-b8f0-647e25f4f2af" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:10:25.557" UserId="48" Text="In Asia, in particular Thailand and [India][1], there are a lot of cheap and popular dual SIM phones. In fact most people seem to have dual SIM phones - I'm not particularly sure of the reason, but I think multiple boyfriends/girlfriends may be partly the reason. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are all quite similar to the good old Nokia 3310, that is to say, a physical keyboard, and a small, non-touch, screen. These are often around the $40 mark or less, so well within your price bracket. The Nokia 107, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nokia 107][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other examples include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 105&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 108&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 112&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 114&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 130&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 206&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 208&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 215&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 220&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 222&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 225&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is by no means the full list, but as you can see there are plenty to choose from. Whether these models are available in your country is another question, as they are obviously targeted towards the emerging nascent mobile phone markets, where lost cost is important. In more affluent countries, these may be considered &quot;throw-away&quot; phones, but they do meet your criteria, and do make for great holiday phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pricebaba.com/mobile/pricelist/nokia-price-list?brand%5B%5D=Nokia&amp;filter=true&amp;sort=1&amp;lpage=4&amp;lproduct=9638&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TM4T1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="338" RevisionGUID="219be0c1-6beb-4f7f-81e2-bd206262acd6" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:42:22.887" UserId="241" Text="Given your description of the shortcomings of your current camera, you want a camera with a large sensor (improved low-light performance and less &quot;noise&quot;), a very large optical zoom range, and a very wide wide-angle view.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Measured in degrees, you need an 84˚ field of view (or larger) for a rainbow, and a 5˚ field of view (or smaller) for a distant airplane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Measured in &quot;35mm equivalent focal length&quot;, you need a focal length of 19mm (or shorter) for a rainbow, and 500mm focal length (or longer) for a distant airplane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Zoom factor (numbers like &quot;10x&quot; or &quot;4x&quot;) is meaningless without knowing the focal length/field of view of one end of the zoom range.  You need *at least* a 25x optical zoom range; given that manufacturers usually bias their zoom range towards the telephoto end rather than the wide end, you may need to go much higher -- this will get expensive, and image quality at the extreme ends of the zoom range will be poor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pixel count is generally one of the *least* important criteria when selecting a camera.  One of [these][1] [two][2] images was created with a 6 MP camera, while the other was created with a 10 MP camera and scaled down.  Which do you think is which?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://imgur.com/jvvbmpL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://imgur.com/Rzn1Ixo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1130" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="339" RevisionGUID="e4f88791-f135-44dd-808b-3b0a9af2163e" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:28:15.647" UserId="40" Text="As said in the comments, if you care about the battery life then look at the number of mAh the replacement battery has. The Samsung original battery for Galaxy S4 Mini is 1900 mAh so you want something higher, e.g. [Zerolemon Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini 5100mAh](http://www.amazon.com/Warranty-Zerolemon-Samsung-5100mah-Extended/dp/B00IK3EECE/). Beware that some batteries are too thick to fit in the original phone case, so they come with a thicker case. Also, there exist a bunch of applications that help detecting which applications take the most of your battery, you might want to optimize on the software side as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="238" RevisionGUID="7588c9b6-28b0-404a-bf6f-3020a6af0ae1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:05:29.717" UserId="164" Comment="added 106 characters in body" Text="The **Anker® Bluetooth Ultra-Slim Keyboard** is a very small, cheap, and light Bluetooth keyboard, and it seems to be a good fit for your needs. It has full sized keys, and retails for 16.00. It also comes in both black and white. You can buy one [here][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another slightly more expensive option is the **Jelly Comb Universal Back-lit keyboard**. It retails for 20$, has all the same features as the Anker® keyboard, and is backlit. Coincidentally, this keyboard also comes in both white and black. You can buy one [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Bluetooth-Ultra-Slim-Keyboard-Devices/dp/B0096M8VR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442613876&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+bluetooth+keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Jelly-Comb-Adjustable-Brightness-Incompatible/dp/B00NG8EJOG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442196482&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=bluetooth%20keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1132" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="337" RevisionGUID="32608412-4aba-4f65-a382-e56a3f851187" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:24:09.933" UserId="48" Comment="Added a couple of extra models" Text="In Asia, in particular Thailand and [India][1], there are a lot of cheap and popular dual SIM phones. In fact most people seem to have dual SIM phones - I'm not particularly sure why, but I think multiple boyfriends/girlfriends may be partly the reason. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are all quite similar to the good old Nokia 3310, that is to say, a physical keyboard, and a small, non-touch, screen. These are often around the $40 mark or less, so well within your price bracket. The Nokia 107, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nokia 107][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other examples include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 105&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 108&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 112&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 114&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 130&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 206&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 208&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 215&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 220&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 222&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 225&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 301&#xD;&#xA; - Nokia 515&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is by no means the full list, but as you can see there are plenty to choose from. Whether these models are available in your country is another question, as they are obviously targeted towards the emerging nascent mobile phone markets, where lost cost is important. In more affluent countries, these may be considered &quot;throw-away&quot; phones, but they do meet your criteria, and do make for great holiday phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, because there is no touch screen and a smaller screen, the battery life is longer on these phones in general, and only require a charge every other day, unlike most smart phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pricebaba.com/mobile/pricelist/nokia-price-list?brand%5B%5D=Nokia&amp;filter=true&amp;sort=1&amp;lpage=4&amp;lproduct=9638&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TM4T1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1133" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="123" RevisionGUID="a7f4ef48-6258-4f8b-bb36-ec72b2a35d12" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:39:14.433" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1134" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="a81e974a-0f13-4735-b675-e1a2de2b9a86" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:11:56.120" UserId="155" Comment="reworded for less confusion/more simplicity" Text="I have a 72GB (15k RPM) SCSI (SAS) HDD from a server machine that I got from a friend which I want to use in my desktop, mainly as the OS drive, but my desktop has only SATA ports. Some online searching for SCSI-to-SATA adapters (and vice-versa) shows there are some such adapters, but I would like to know if they are actually compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, will there be any significant performance degradation? And is using such a setup meaningful/harmful?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1135" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="a81e974a-0f13-4735-b675-e1a2de2b9a86" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:11:56.120" UserId="155" Comment="reworded for less confusion/more simplicity" Text="SCSI (SAS) hard disk on SATA port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="340" RevisionGUID="43ff46f8-6bbf-448c-94a1-8c6e2c5c9522" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:12:38.887" UserId="77" Text="If you already have a door you could just add in a new smartphone controlled controller,&#xD;&#xA;e.g. &#xD;&#xA;https://garageio.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="334" RevisionGUID="d4222aa5-8164-4432-a81e-34433a9d21a4" CreationDate="2015-09-19T02:01:07.297" UserId="24" Comment="adding wiki link to raid0" Text="It depends mainly on the type of NAND the SSD uses, and also somewhat on the controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Higher quality SLC NAND stores one bit per cell. This make the cells much faster and longer lived, whereas MLC and TLC (2 bits and 3 bits) degrade more easily and are harder to read and write, especially write. Since the MLC SSDs are more common, most SSDs *do* have slow writes (compared to their reads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just run out and get the cheapest SSD, you're likely to find yourself something faster than a HDD by only the slightest margins in read speed, like the Kingston SSDVNow. In some circumstances, this SSD **will be slower than a HDD.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Larger SSDs are also faster, because they're composed of multiple chips effectively in [RAID 0][1] (it's similar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OCZ Vertex, Sandisk Extreme and Samsung Pro are all models to look for if you want the fastest performance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you're on a budget (who isn't), the Samsung EVO, OCZ ARC (they've renamed their mid range a few times, but I'm pretty sure this is the newest), and the Crucial MX range are easier on the wallet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be sure to find some benchmarks before you buy, and remember that the newest isn't always the best. The older SSDs on larger processes are often longer lived, if you're making lots of writes. Also check out the newer SSDs with 3D V-NAND if you're concerned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_RAID_levels#RAID_0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1138" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="334" RevisionGUID="d4222aa5-8164-4432-a81e-34433a9d21a4" CreationDate="2015-09-19T02:01:07.297" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 155, 203 edit id of 87" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="47c1c5d7-0b52-4d73-8796-aabcc2964865" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:45:42.937" UserId="116" Text="I'm looking for an external USB 3.0 hub for under $50(USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - At least 5 ports (More the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Works on Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - External&#xD;&#xA; - Looks nice mounted in one place (I won't be moving it, so it doesn't need to be portable or small)&#xD;&#xA; - Able to transfer data to/from PC through multiple ports at once&#xD;&#xA; - Able to transfer data between ports directly (Ex: from one external HDD to another)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'd be nice to have an individual power switch for each port, but not required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1143" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="47c1c5d7-0b52-4d73-8796-aabcc2964865" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:45:42.937" UserId="116" Text="Cheap USB3.0 hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1144" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="47c1c5d7-0b52-4d73-8796-aabcc2964865" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:45:42.937" UserId="116" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;external&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1145" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="f5af2451-b193-46af-8978-8aa7a2521581" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:57:57.870" UserId="116" Text="I'm looking for a secure USB flash drive that has built-in 256bit(or greater) encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 16gb&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Completely encrypted without third-party software.&#xD;&#xA; - Having either actual buttons on the flashdrive(for a pin), or having to type in a password when plugged into a computer is fine&#xD;&#xA; - Works on both Windows (Vista, 7, 8.1, 10) and on GNU/Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Able to change/customize password or pin&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper it is, the better, but no actual limit for the price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1146" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="f5af2451-b193-46af-8978-8aa7a2521581" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:57:57.870" UserId="116" Text="Encrypted flashdrive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1147" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="f5af2451-b193-46af-8978-8aa7a2521581" CreationDate="2015-09-19T03:57:57.870" UserId="116" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="1c0bc99d-71ff-47b5-8986-badc73057809" CreationDate="2015-09-19T04:16:58.707" UserId="116" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a secure USB flash drive that has built-in 256bit(or greater) encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 16gb&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Completely encrypted without third-party software.&#xD;&#xA; - Having either actual buttons on the flashdrive(for a pin), or having to type in a password when plugged into a computer is fine&#xD;&#xA; - Works on both Windows (Vista, 7, 8.1, 10) and on GNU/Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Able to change/customize password or pin&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper it is, the better, but no actual limit for the price&#xD;&#xA; - Unable to delete files/format without the password/pin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="343" RevisionGUID="dc37bcbc-6338-4716-8638-d1f87ea1a637" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:25:55.013" UserId="155" Text="Kingston has a few excellent encrypted flash drive solutions. Their flash drives are always high-quality and are known for their reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Kingston DataTraveler Vault Privacy 3.0](http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security#dtvp30)**  &#xD;&#xA;Their basic encrypted flash drive. (~$60 for 16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- encryption certified by FIPS 197 standard&#xD;&#xA;- optional antivirus (I can't attest to the usefulness of this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Kingston DataTraveler 4000 G2](http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security#dt4000G2)**  &#xD;&#xA;Their advanced encrypted flash drive. (~$70 for 16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- encryption certified by FIPS 140-2 Level 3, a higher standard than FIPS 197&#xD;&#xA;- waterproof and titanium-coated stainless steel&#xD;&#xA;- allows bulk-order customization (logo, encryption and password settings etc.) for businesses&#xD;&#xA;- a seal that shows signs of tampering if the encryption module is being messed with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features of both models**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB to 64GB&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0 and 2.0 connectivity&#xD;&#xA;- built-in 256-bit XTS encryption&#xD;&#xA;- work with Vista/7/8.1/10, OSX, and Linux&#xD;&#xA;- a read-only access mode and a lockdown/formatting protocol for attempted break-ins&#xD;&#xA;- password-protected access and optional &quot;dual password&quot; to reset via the OS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1150" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="a6b5f1a2-25ec-45e9-9b75-b925ca2858c4" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:26:40.777" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; added 4 characters in body" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1151" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="342" RevisionGUID="a6b5f1a2-25ec-45e9-9b75-b925ca2858c4" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:26:40.777" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a secure USB flash drive that has built-in 256-bit (or greater) encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Completely encrypted without third-party software.&#xD;&#xA; - Having either actual buttons on the flash drive (for a pin), or having to type in a password when plugged into a computer is fine&#xD;&#xA; - Works on both Windows (Vista, 7, 8.1, 10) and on GNU/Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Able to change/customize password or pin&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper it is, the better, but no actual limit for the price&#xD;&#xA; - Unable to delete files/format without the password/pin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1152" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="11" RevisionGUID="ac4ec706-21fc-4a29-be57-fb3dca452fcc" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:43:44.127" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1153" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="343" RevisionGUID="6cd22515-29d6-4a64-b4bb-ab0b0381badb" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:43:54.777" UserId="155" Comment="edited body" Text="Kingston has a few excellent encrypted flash drive solutions. Their flash drives are always high-quality and are known for their reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Kingston DataTraveler Vault Privacy 3.0](http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security#dtvp30)**  &#xD;&#xA;Their basic encrypted flash drive. (~$60 for 16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- encryption certified by FIPS 197 standard&#xD;&#xA;- optional antivirus (I can't attest to the usefulness of this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Kingston DataTraveler 4000 G2](http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security#dt4000G2)**  &#xD;&#xA;Their advanced encrypted flash drive. (~$70 for 16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- encryption certified by FIPS 140-2 Level 3, a higher standard than FIPS 197&#xD;&#xA;- waterproof and titanium-coated stainless steel&#xD;&#xA;- allows bulk-order customization (logo, encryption and password settings, etc.) for businesses&#xD;&#xA;- a seal that shows signs of tampering if the encryption module is messed with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features of both models**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB to 64GB&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0 and 2.0 connectivity&#xD;&#xA;- built-in 256-bit XTS encryption&#xD;&#xA;- works with Vista/7/8.1/10, OSX, and Linux&#xD;&#xA;- optional read-only access mode&#xD;&#xA;- lockdown/formatting protocol for attempted break-ins&#xD;&#xA;- password-protected access and optional &quot;dual password&quot; to reset via the OS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1154" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="3532e1ff-b176-435b-927e-f19343ea6f33" CreationDate="2015-09-19T05:44:06.307" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="344" RevisionGUID="ec13813e-4e32-487d-ad33-290be25634ca" CreationDate="2015-09-19T08:17:11.043" UserId="155" Text="I'm looking for a fan controller suitable for a high-end PC with the following specs (all are required):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5.25&quot; form factor&#xD;&#xA;- Material is either completely or partially metal&#xD;&#xA;- At least 4 fan channels&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature alarm system&#xD;&#xA;- Touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA;- Profiles/presets for storing settings&#xD;&#xA;- Shows fan speeds and voltages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And then there's the design. I'd prefer it to look sleek and minimalistic with an easy-to-quickly-glance-at display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price isn't an issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1156" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="344" RevisionGUID="ec13813e-4e32-487d-ad33-290be25634ca" CreationDate="2015-09-19T08:17:11.043" UserId="155" Text="Fan controller for a high-end PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1157" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="344" RevisionGUID="ec13813e-4e32-487d-ad33-290be25634ca" CreationDate="2015-09-19T08:17:11.043" UserId="155" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="345" RevisionGUID="e412e0a3-70b1-4b10-b44b-5487ede81c7b" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:01:13.493" UserId="128" Text="I would recommend the [Anker 10-port USB hub][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a little bit on the expensive side, as it is normally listed for just under $80, but there is a sale on [Amazon][1] that has it listed for $33. Here are some of the features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Data Transfer to 5 Gb/s on all 7 available ports. &#xD;&#xA;- 3 Additional &quot;charging&quot; ports that provide 2.1A so they can easily charge your phones, and your tablets.&#xD;&#xA;- 4.4 stars from 1100 reviews, I've got to say that's pretty good :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks fairly good as well, not ugly like a lot of other multi hubs. Hope that works out for you :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;m=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&amp;tag=ianker-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399373&amp;creativeASIN=B005NGQWL2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/lYz1G.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1159" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="2b4aab08-4c91-41f9-837e-a4b9af288044" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:09:30.577" UserId="54" Comment="2" />
  <row Id="1160" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="284" RevisionGUID="d95ba46c-fb86-437c-abcc-655c97d7e600" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:11:14.420" UserId="54" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I'd also recommend a **Samson** company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a problem with buying second-hand items, you can get a **Samson Go Mic** for less than $30 or buy a brand new one for $38 from [amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portable USB condenser microphone &#xD;&#xA; - Plug and Play &#xD;&#xA; - Useful clip (you don't have to buy another accessory to keep it in a place) &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Natural&quot; sound (perfect for podcasts) - check this [comparison][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very popular model and you can find reliable reviews [like this one][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6zmJ23RCKU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InhS6xOoPwc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/78YAF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/duJ7i.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JuIKR.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="67749bc4-192f-422c-9602-5711cdff3ac5" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:13:14.527" UserId="54" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with fingerprint scanner on board but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense). In many cases it was not too restrictive when it comes to accuracy of reading. Even if the settings of the hardware were selected to the highest level of &quot;security&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth to interest in this topic? Could you recommend something? The price is not the most important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="8cb478d7-1d85-4a2e-8754-be2d6a192d34" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:30:12.250" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch the videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've less requirements than in [here][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X&#xD;&#xA;- it should be fairly small - mini (or pocket) size&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available in EU/UK also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1165" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="8cb478d7-1d85-4a2e-8754-be2d6a192d34" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:30:12.250" UserId="15" Text="Mini projector for mirroring the screen or watching the movies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1166" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="8cb478d7-1d85-4a2e-8754-be2d6a192d34" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:30:12.250" UserId="15" Text="&lt;osx&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="347" RevisionGUID="88f76a4e-68d4-410d-8a5f-b215bf631e76" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:45:35.317" UserId="15" Text="Since Google announced that it would stop producing the [Google Glass][1] technology, are there any alternatives on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- modest design,&#xD;&#xA;- good open-source API/SDK with the community support,&#xD;&#xA;- built-in camera,&#xD;&#xA;- display,&#xD;&#xA;- integration with mobile smart apps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Google_Glass" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="347" RevisionGUID="88f76a4e-68d4-410d-8a5f-b215bf631e76" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:45:35.317" UserId="15" Text="What are the alternatives to Google Glass?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="347" RevisionGUID="88f76a4e-68d4-410d-8a5f-b215bf631e76" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:45:35.317" UserId="15" Text="&lt;gadgets&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="8c7a1da8-5bd6-4db3-8837-a31748ca748e" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:52:42.273" UserId="15" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch the videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've less requirements than in [here][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X&#xD;&#xA;- it should be fairly small - mini (or pocket) size&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available across EU/UK/US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="348" RevisionGUID="7b1f9b7c-6378-444f-baa2-202776349d77" CreationDate="2015-09-19T16:41:20.360" UserId="164" Text="With the information given, I would recommend the NZXT Sentry 3 or Sentry 2 fan controller. You can buy one [here][1]. The reviews are good, the only cons being that sometimes the controller does not work out of the box and that it is easy to make a mess out of the cables. The LED touch screen is of good quality as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442680582&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fan%20Controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="344" RevisionGUID="4b2977d4-39bd-4200-9ccb-eb92c48c7504" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:30:07.817" UserId="155" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a fan controller suitable for a high-end PC with the following specs (all are required):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5.25&quot; form factor&#xD;&#xA;- Material is either completely or partially metal&#xD;&#xA;- At least 4 fan channels&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature alarm system&#xD;&#xA;- Touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA;- Profiles/presets for storing settings&#xD;&#xA;- Shows fan speeds and voltages&#xD;&#xA;- Grayscale color&#xD;&#xA;- Can take up more than one front slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And then there's the design. I'd prefer it to look sleek and minimalistic with an easy-to-quickly-glance-at display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price isn't an issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="564ba0ae-19df-4cbb-9589-ecb52c9f48b1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:46:41.053" UserId="65" Text="Historically, optical media appears to have been the best choice for inexpensive 10-20 year storage, but over the years, optical storage just hasn't kept up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CD-R was introduced around 1988 with 600-750MB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 30MB (20x hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;* DVD-R was introduced around 1997 with 4.7-9GB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 5GB (1x hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;* BD-R was introduced around 2006 with 25-50GB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 300GB (1/6 hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the most inexpensive option 10-20 year data archival?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. reasonably reliable (maybe 95%) after at least 10 years in typical home storage (on a shelf with temperatures around 70 degrees F +/- 20 degrees)&#xD;&#xA;2. have a reasonable capacity of at least 500GB&#xD;&#xA;3. cost less than HDD, and &#xD;&#xA;4. be a technology that is likely to still be around in 10 years (no single-manufacturer devices unless they are so popular that working used devices are likely to be available and usable in at least 10 years, like Iomega Zip drives were)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="564ba0ae-19df-4cbb-9589-ecb52c9f48b1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:46:41.053" UserId="65" Text="Inexpensive Long-term (10-20-year) Archival Storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="564ba0ae-19df-4cbb-9589-ecb52c9f48b1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:46:41.053" UserId="65" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1177" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="f224cb46-0bf4-47ca-a429-d94c03c2591c" CreationDate="2015-09-19T18:44:17.717" UserId="339" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a quite high requirement ... industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 Years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say : you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3 here is what I can tell you :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. you need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation)&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2 : DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned : Lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years .... so be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD)&#xD;&#xA; - The most expansive way : SSD's. The degradation of SSD is made in how much times you write in it ... so you write once and then the SSD will never suffer of data loss if you keep it off meanwhile. The industrial conditions can also be achieved with that technology.&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least : you buy a very specific technology (like iomega zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time ... Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="351" RevisionGUID="db707cd6-bcd2-4083-86f5-8be2cd66cdb4" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:03:51.063" UserId="339" Text="External device is per definition not secured ... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a computer it's practically saying that you'll use USB. And USB is not meant to be secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However you seem to have a very bad experience with internal ones witch seems to be cheap ones and easily cheated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need to be sure that they use your veins or infrared. For having a little of security with the USB thing : be sure that it's not a device that only send &quot;Yes/No&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Veins cannot be cheated by collecting the grease of the finger or a photo of the finger .... Detection is thermal so an image cannot be presented. &#xD;&#xA;The only way to cheat the detection is making a 3d metal sculpture of the structure of the vein of the good finger, heat it and show it to the system ... We can say that it's quite secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However the USB part make the device vulnerable to man in the middle attack (witch is noticed because have an hardware between the usb port and the usb cable) and is also vulnerable to any simulation of the device (this part you can fix it by applying all the methods against brute force method)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance : https://solisystems.com/fingervein/index.php?gclid=CM6CuaTjg8gCFUbmwgod5XgOcA&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1179" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="351" RevisionGUID="f68da40a-9e0e-4349-89f2-36cf2c239231" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:13:06.070" UserId="54" Comment="witch -&gt; which" Text="External device is per definition not secured... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a computer it's practically saying that you'll use USB. And USB is not meant to be secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However you seem to have a very bad experience with internal ones which seems to be cheap ones and easily cheated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need to be sure that they use your veins or infrared. For having a little of security with the USB thing : be sure that it's not a device that only send &quot;Yes/No&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Veins cannot be cheated by collecting the grease of the finger or a photo of the finger... Detection is thermal so an image cannot be presented. &#xD;&#xA;The only way to cheat the detection is making a 3d metal sculpture of the structure of the vein of the good finger, heat it and show it to the system ... We can say that it's quite secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However the USB part make the device vulnerable to man in the middle attack (witch is noticed because have an hardware between the usb port and the usb cable) and is also vulnerable to any simulation of the device (this part you can fix it by applying all the methods against brute force method)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance: https://solisystems.com/fingervein/index.php?gclid=CM6CuaTjg8gCFUbmwgod5XgOcA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1180" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="351" RevisionGUID="f68da40a-9e0e-4349-89f2-36cf2c239231" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:13:06.070" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 339 edit id of 89" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="743369a6-7b70-4ab8-81e2-eec04e14959a" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:15:01.940" UserId="54" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with fingerprint scanner on board but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense). In many cases it was not too restrictive when it comes to accuracy of reading. Even if the settings of the hardware were selected to the highest level of &quot;security&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth to interest in this topic? Could you recommend something? The price is not the most important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This article may shed some light on the topic:&#xD;&#xA;http://blog.elcomsoft.com/2012/08/upek-fingerprint-readers-a-huge-security-hole/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1182" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="37fc1dc1-4c56-4c72-ad52-a59d14d742fe" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:25:08.520" UserId="339" Comment="expansive -&gt; expensive" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a quite high requirement ... industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 Years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say : you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3 here is what I can tell you :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. you need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation)&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2 : DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned : Lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years .... so be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD)&#xD;&#xA; - The most expensive way : SSD's. The degradation of SSD is made in how much times you write in it ... so you write once and then the SSD will never suffer of data loss if you keep it off meanwhile. The industrial conditions can also be achieved with that technology.&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least : you buy a very specific technology (like iomega zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time ... Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="352" RevisionGUID="fae39eed-fee6-4a98-ba53-d6460fa73523" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:46:45.853" UserId="339" Text="You can use iSCSI to connect your SATA drive over network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AoE is faster but unsecure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your Gigabyte network is Ok however beware of cheap switch that handles a low number of packets per seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are technology that use an exclusive link and cannot be shared to more than one computer at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are SAN technology. You share a storage device over the network. That tech is the fastest one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to share to more than one computer at a time then you need more a NAS technology. You share a &quot;folder&quot; witch can be the root of your hard drive (c:\ under Windows or / under *nix). However It's much more slower ... Like Windows File Sharing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some NAS does have both worlds inside them. For best performance you need a high quality one like [sinology][1] for your hard drive part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, the other side : any modern PC can connect to it in any way possible : Windows XP onwards and recent Linux (and easily versions back 10 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS115j#spec" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1185" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="1177ee69-f259-492d-9a04-cf5516123b90" CreationDate="2015-09-19T22:08:19.153" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="4f8581bb-1489-4827-be99-5bc56093cecd" CreationDate="2015-09-19T23:57:18.653" UserId="341" Text="My current router is just not cutting it. It has limited ports (only 2 to be exact) and the signal is horrible.&#xA;&#xA;Here's my situation: &#xA;&#xA;I live in a two story house which the builder has placed all my cable wires and Ethernet cables in an encasement upstairs in the master bedroom closet. The signal from my bedroom upstairs is horrible however downstairs is much better. I've read somewhere it is better to place the router downstairs so the signal can move upwards but in my situation that is not possible. &#xA;&#xA;What I need in a new router:&#xA;&#xA; - multiple Ethernet ports&#xA; - great signal throughout the entire house. (Even in a room that might be a few walls away from the router itself)&#xA; - secure of course&#xA; - not too big so it can fit in the encasement which is about 2x3'.&#xA; - a plus if it supports open source firmware such as ddrt or tomato.&#xA; - economical.&#xA;&#xA;The main part is the signal!! I don't really want to buy a range extender unless I have to!&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1187" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="4f8581bb-1489-4827-be99-5bc56093cecd" CreationDate="2015-09-19T23:57:18.653" UserId="341" Text="Good &amp; Economical Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1188" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="4f8581bb-1489-4827-be99-5bc56093cecd" CreationDate="2015-09-19T23:57:18.653" UserId="341" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;wireless-extender&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1189" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="347" RevisionGUID="83ba5edf-78da-40a0-8e1a-4c55e8414a58" CreationDate="2015-09-20T00:11:14.677" UserId="97" Comment="Tag cleanup - see http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/110/97" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1190" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="347" RevisionGUID="83ba5edf-78da-40a0-8e1a-4c55e8414a58" CreationDate="2015-09-20T00:11:14.677" Comment="Proposed by 97 approved by 15, 155 edit id of 90" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="d2a87212-cc0c-4f7d-8ca4-275a9e5018f1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T01:48:44.777" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="My current router is just not cutting it. It has limited ports (only 2 to be exact) and the signal is horrible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my situation: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a two story house which the builder has placed all my cable wires and Ethernet cables in an encasement upstairs in the master bedroom closet. The signal from my bedroom upstairs is horrible however downstairs is much better. I've read somewhere it is better to place the router downstairs so the signal can move upwards but in my situation that is not possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need in a new router:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - multiple Ethernet ports&#xD;&#xA; - great signal throughout the entire house. (Even in a room that might be a few walls away from the router itself)&#xD;&#xA; - secure of course&#xD;&#xA; - not too big so it can fit in the encasement which is about 2x3'.&#xD;&#xA; - a plus if it supports open source firmware such as ddrt or tomato.&#xD;&#xA; - economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main part is the signal!! I don't really want to buy a range extender unless I have to!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1192" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="d2a87212-cc0c-4f7d-8ca4-275a9e5018f1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T01:48:44.777" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1194" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="15b9f0f1-1e4d-4a2d-9a77-b99feaab7e52" CreationDate="2015-09-20T08:31:49.880" UserId="97" Comment="Tag cleanup - see http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/110/97" Text="&lt;durable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1195" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="15b9f0f1-1e4d-4a2d-9a77-b99feaab7e52" CreationDate="2015-09-20T08:31:49.880" Comment="Proposed by 97 approved by -1 edit id of 91" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1196" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="c0d40728-d27f-4252-bba9-aaa70270e7ef" CreationDate="2015-09-20T08:31:49.880" UserId="155" Comment="Tag cleanup - see http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/110/97" Text="&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1197" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="71899429-ea80-4df0-b983-bcf0c90c4910" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:12:46.963" UserId="155" Comment="improved title, minor punctuation, added sources for future readers" Text="My current router is just not cutting it. It has limited ports (only 2 to be exact) and the signal is horrible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my situation: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a two-story house which the builder has placed all my cable wires and Ethernet cables in an encasement upstairs in the master bedroom closet. The signal from my bedroom upstairs is horrible however downstairs is much better. I've read somewhere it is better to place the router downstairs so the signal can move upwards but in my situation that is not possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need in a new router:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - multiple Ethernet ports&#xD;&#xA; - great signal throughout the entire house (even in a room that might be a few walls away from the router itself)&#xD;&#xA; - secure of course&#xD;&#xA; - not too big so it can fit in the encasement which is about 2x3'&#xD;&#xA; - a plus if it supports open-source firmware such as [DD-WRT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DD-WRT) or [Tomato](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato_(firmware))&#xD;&#xA; - cost-effective&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main part is the signal! I don't really want to buy a range extender unless I have to!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1198" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="353" RevisionGUID="71899429-ea80-4df0-b983-bcf0c90c4910" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:12:46.963" UserId="155" Comment="improved title, minor punctuation, added sources for future readers" Text="Good cost-effective router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1199" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="6914516b-73a6-43d4-b716-55e968006cb4" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:29:11.800" UserId="67" Comment="added 221 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a dedicated audio recording device. I'm looking for something under $30 (or a bit more), and which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has a 3.5mm connector mic socket, which also works with line-level audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has good audio quality, which means no noises from the device itself, at least 44.1khz and stereo recording to WAV or some other lossless format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has adjustable audio level, as well as displaying the audio level. Bonus points if you can hear what you're recording through the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus points if it takes SD or MicroSD cards instead of having built in storage, both to keep the cost down and because then I can swap out the card when it is full. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't really care about the quality of the microphone, as I have my own high quality one. Would be even better if it has _no_ built in mic - again, saves on price, and I would not use it much anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around a bit, and devices with good quality start at around $60, so if I could get something like that, just without the built in mic and storage, that would work well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially, I'm looking for something like [this Zoom digital recorder](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoom-Portable-Digital-Recorder-Version/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1), but without the built in microphone and a bit cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like this exist ? Any recommendations ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1200" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="9c4a3b67-ea26-498d-b83b-f2fee82a6971" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:56:26.867" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a dedicated audio recording device. I'm looking for something under $30 (or a bit more), and which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has a 3.5mm connector mic socket, which also works with line-level audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has good audio quality, which means no noises from the device itself, at least 44.1kHz and stereo recording to WAV or some other lossless format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has adjustable audio level, as well as displaying the audio level. Bonus points if you can hear what you're recording through the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus points if it takes SD or MicroSD cards instead of having built in storage, both to keep the cost down and because then I can swap out the card when it is full. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't really care about the quality of the microphone, as I have my own high quality one. Would be even better if it has _no_ built in mic - again, saves on price, and I would not use it much anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around a bit, and devices with good quality start at around $60, so if I could get something like that, just without the built in mic and storage, that would work well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially, I'm looking for something like [this Zoom digital recorder](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoom-Portable-Digital-Recorder-Version/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1), but without the built in microphone and a bit cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like this exist? Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1201" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="354" RevisionGUID="8e9eb669-f59f-445f-8c05-ae5c3d7d0be3" CreationDate="2015-09-20T12:10:42.750" UserId="313" Text="What are the laptops which are most suited for data scientists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As we deal with heavy computations and also need to generate visualizations, something which can take the toll of it, would be recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be preferred if it can help in handling Big Data analytics too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though the analytics is done in the Map Reduce framework (or distributed computing), yet the computations are heavy and time taking and also slows down the laptop in most cases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a laptop with features and OS which is most suited to handle such things gracefully is recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Price not an issue]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1202" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="354" RevisionGUID="8e9eb669-f59f-445f-8c05-ae5c3d7d0be3" CreationDate="2015-09-20T12:10:42.750" UserId="313" Text="Laptop for data science" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1203" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="354" RevisionGUID="8e9eb669-f59f-445f-8c05-ae5c3d7d0be3" CreationDate="2015-09-20T12:10:42.750" UserId="313" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="e4e63c8d-8885-4b9f-8be6-9277532a4a7f" CreationDate="2015-09-20T16:05:10.093" UserId="312" Text="I'm searching for a good monitor for my PC. I currently own a 21,5&quot; ASUS monitor, which is fine; I'm planning on using the one I currently own as a second monitor and get a new one as my main monitor. I'm willing to pay up to 200 €. I want something that's a little bigger than my current one, maybe 23 - 27&quot; tops. It will be used for gaming and all kinds of office applications as well as graphic design (I'm a heavy user). Because of the latter, it should offer adjustable color modes (or at least some reasonable presets) and be energy-efficient. Full HD resolution (1920x1080), not more and not less. 16/9 aspect ratio is a requirement, I don't want 16/10. Must be available to buy in Germany, no imports. Needs to accept HDMI input, DVI is optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Which monitors that fit these parameters can you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;- To everyone who has worked with multiple monitors before: Do you think it is important that both monitors are the same size? Is it confusing if one is bigger than the other one (or bad for the eyes or something like that)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to point out if I missed some important parameter. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="e4e63c8d-8885-4b9f-8be6-9277532a4a7f" CreationDate="2015-09-20T16:05:10.093" UserId="312" Text="A good monitor as the main one of a two-monitor setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="e4e63c8d-8885-4b9f-8be6-9277532a4a7f" CreationDate="2015-09-20T16:05:10.093" UserId="312" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1207" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="356" RevisionGUID="6836fef9-f4d3-4420-8849-ab81e3f743f3" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:16:37.717" UserId="146" Text="I personally have the BenQ GL2440 since december 2010 and a GL2450 since august 2014. They are really good monitors, with a good price-performance ratio. I really like them, because they are not too expensive and show the collors pretty good.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now BenQ has a newer version, the [GL2460][1] which costs only 160€ currently on amazon Germany. Thus I would recomend buying the newer one. For 200€ you could also get the GL2760, which is basically the 27 inch version of the 2460.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I worked before with different sized monitors, and I think it's not really necessary to have same sized ones. The only plus of same size monitors is, that you can change the position of the windows, without thinking about window size.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't recommend buying 2 monitors in your case (if you don't want to spend more then 200€), because for gaming across multiple monitors you need at least 3. In that case you would need same size monitors for the best experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/BenQ-GL2460HM-LED-Monitor-Reaktionszeit-schwarz/dp/B00AQBWMZ4/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1208" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="58e2c88e-307a-4f71-a4c0-dfdb3d9916db" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:33:25.417" UserId="312" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a good monitor for my PC. I currently own a 21,5&quot; ASUS monitor, which is fine; I'm planning on using the one I currently own as a second monitor and get a new one as my main monitor. I'm willing to pay up to 200 €. I want something that's a little bigger than my current one, maybe 23 - 27&quot; tops. It will be used for gaming and all kinds of office applications as well as graphic design (I'm a heavy user). Because of the latter, it should offer adjustable color modes (or at least some reasonable presets) and be energy-efficient. Full HD resolution (1920x1080), not more and not less. 16/9 aspect ratio is a requirement, I don't want 16/10. Must be available to buy in Germany, no imports. Needs to accept HDMI input, DVI is optional. **Edit:** I don't need internal speakers!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Which monitors that fit these parameters can you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;- To everyone who has worked with multiple monitors before: Do you think it is important that both monitors are the same size? Is it confusing if one is bigger than the other one (or bad for the eyes or something like that)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to point out if I missed some important parameter. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="ee6009f0-f15b-4a5d-8336-a5e280634229" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:44:35.787" UserId="128" Comment="More emphasis on the recommendation aspect." Text="The Intel Core i7 processor has a feature known as &quot;hyper-threading.&quot; Quoting their [website][1]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel® Hyper-Threading Technology (Intel® HT Technology)1 uses processor resources more efficiently, enabling multiple threads to run on each core. As a performance feature, it also increases processor throughput, improving overall performance on threaded software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, this sounds a bit like an advertisement, and it doesn't show whether it has any less desirable qualities to it, such as increased power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What exactly is hyper-threading? *When should I buy a processor that utilizes this?*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/hyper-threading/hyper-threading-technology.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1210" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="ee6009f0-f15b-4a5d-8336-a5e280634229" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:44:35.787" UserId="128" Comment="More emphasis on the recommendation aspect." Text="Should I find a processor with &quot;hyper-threading?&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1211" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="bc4dc93c-abae-4892-a4aa-b4f2f1204509" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:55:23.130" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:128,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Zizouz212&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:21,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0rkan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:40,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Franck Dernoncourt&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="357" RevisionGUID="cd8e2828-f5f0-4b24-8b2d-edee2d62240d" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:58:23.630" UserId="128" Text="If you've got a phone, this might work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Moustache recommended, but sold separately.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The camera should be mountable either on a lightweight hat or strapped around the upper chest of a runner&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure if it's a hat... It looks more like a... Freaky headband used to brainwash people, and slow your fellow runners.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The price should be under $50 $75&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$34.99 on sale for just $18. That's half off :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The camera mounting system must be able to survive leaps, jumps, turns, etc. The runner with the camera may reach speeds of up to 12 miles per hour while running on trails with hilly terrain, so jostling will be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't tested that, nor will I ever probably want too. But it's got a case!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A weight under half a pound&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's 90 grams. Is that less than a pound?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A 180 degree viewing angle&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A battery life of four hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mobile phone sold separately. Depends on what phone you've got, let's hope it has a fish eye :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ArRxn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9o7Fg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1213" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="169" RevisionGUID="eacd5db2-f6ad-4b3f-a6a0-2625bef2ebbd" CreationDate="2015-09-20T18:05:33.717" UserId="67" Comment="1" />
  <row Id="1214" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="358" RevisionGUID="5d440e03-fc64-4b6e-abd1-8329177a65e3" CreationDate="2015-09-20T19:29:01.377" UserId="40" Text="As I am pretty much in the same situation, here are what I look for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: since you'll likely perform many I/O on large data sets. 1 TB is my bottom line.&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: since it's often more convenient and much faster to keep data sets (or part of it) in memory. 16 GB is really bottom line.&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Nvidia is sometimes preferable over AMD as it tends to be more supported (e.g. for neural network libraries). I had to get a MBP M2014 instead of M2015 because the latter had AMD while the former has Nvidia, and I need to use Theano. &#xD;&#xA; - OS: Linux tend to have more libraries (but since it doesn't have any decent speech engine software I personally use Microsoft Windows, using Linux in VM or in server).&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: hasn't evolved much over the last few years... some i7 3rd or 4th generation is standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it's often cheaper to add SSD and RAM oneself, I tend upgrade mid-spec laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If price isn't an issue, you can have a look at those overpriced Alienwares. For people a lot more budget conscious, just check to what extend the laptop is upgradable (e.g. max RAM + number of SSD slots). In the US, I like Xotic PC as the max specs are clearly defined." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1216" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="360" RevisionGUID="e4d9be6e-c7c7-4531-908f-3c92e67c653d" CreationDate="2015-09-20T20:02:53.497" UserId="57" Text="I've recommended it [previously][1], but I think it fits here too. I recommend the [ASUS RT-AC66U][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has 4 Ethernet ports (all 1GB/s)&#xD;&#xA; - Mine covers a 2800+ sqft house from end to end, with it situated in the basement at one end. &#xD;&#xA; - It supports several different wireless security standards. Notably, it does NOT support WEP, which means you can't select that ***very*** insecure method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    [![Supported Wireless encryption][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Newegg][4] lists the dimensions as: 207 x 148.8 x 35.5 mm (WxDxH)&#xD;&#xA; - Supported by [dd-wrt][5]&#xD;&#xA; - Price is currently $150. It's up to you to decide if that's cost effective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Signal strength is one of the biggest reasons I upgraded to this router. Due to where the internet/cable box enters the house and how the cable is run, I was not able to bring it to a more central location. The opposite end of the house would not be covered under the previous router. This one covers everything. I've had no issues getting a signal anywhere since I purchased this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/180/57&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC66U/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKO7r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115&amp;Tpk=rt-ac66u&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC66U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1217" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="358" RevisionGUID="c21ed3fe-292c-4a03-9997-203a935680b2" CreationDate="2015-09-20T20:42:21.847" UserId="40" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="As I am pretty much in the same situation, here are what I look for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: since you'll likely perform many I/O on large data sets. 1 TB is my bottom line.&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: since it's often more convenient and much faster to keep data sets (or part of it) in memory. 16 GB is really bottom line.&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Nvidia is sometimes preferable over AMD as it tends to be more supported (e.g. for neural network libraries). I had to get a MBP M2014 instead of M2015 because the latter had AMD while the former has Nvidia, and I need to use Theano. &#xD;&#xA; - OS: Linux tend to have more libraries (but since it doesn't have any decent speech engine software I personally use Microsoft Windows, using Linux in VM or in server).&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: hasn't evolved much over the last few years... some i7 3rd or 4th generation is standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it's often cheaper to add SSD and RAM oneself, I tend upgrade mid-spec laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If price isn't an issue, you can have a look at those overpriced Alienwares. For people who are more budget conscious, just check to what extend the laptop is upgradable (e.g. max RAM + number of SSD slots). In the US, I like Xotic PC as the max specs are clearly defined." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="361" RevisionGUID="339d80fc-aa55-4b54-b480-b507f41e0ec7" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:35:43.690" UserId="199" Text="I recommend you the Mobius Action cam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Picture of the mobius action cam][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The camera should be mountable either on a lightweight hat or strapped around the upper chest of a runner&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can buy Magnet Mounting Clip for hats and the most basic package of the camera usually comes with a mounting sleeve with lots of options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The price should be under &lt;strike&gt;$50&lt;/strike&gt; $75&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's around $70 on eBay and Banggood.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The camera mounting system must be able to survive leaps, jumps, turns, etc. The runner with the camera may reach speeds of up to 12 miles per hour while running on trails with hilly terrain, so jostling will be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for cycling and I use it in the city and offroad as well without any issue with the velcro hooks on my helmet. I don't have any experience with another mounting systems but I guess usual head straps are good enough for a small and lightweight camera like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A weight under half a pound&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;It's only 37 gramms.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's supported, 30 fps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A 180 degree viewing angle&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think that this is currently available in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;[Mobius (with the new C lens) has 132 degrees.][2]&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; A battery life of four hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[New versions comes with 820mAh battery][3] which provides more than two hours of recording. I was able to record 140 minutes (1080p, 30fps) with my camera in the first few months. (I have not tested since then.) With a small power bank you can extend the battery life and it might be still below your weight limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yey4F.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/mobius-adds-new-wide-angle-c-lens/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/store/products/mobius-replacement-battery-820mah/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="362" RevisionGUID="6908d3c2-250c-4fe9-b328-2d78c6f6aa2a" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:36:48.087" UserId="1" Text="I'm currently using a Ye Olde [HP Compaq nc6220](http://www.engadget.com/products/hp/compaq/nc6220/specs/) running Ubuntu Server 15.04 as a server to run odd jobs in my closet. It's doing fine, but the room can get a little toasty (which is fine) and I'm fairly certain it's not the most energy efficient setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some examples of the odd jobs I run on it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Downloading the SE data dump about twice a year to a big external hard drive (it's around a 30GB dump) over a torren&#xD;&#xA; - Playing music through a 3.5mm headphone jack throughout the day, managed by a cron job&#xD;&#xA; - Running a very, *very* low volume Apache server (it's on my local network, so this is basically no load beyond the base Apache-running load)&#xD;&#xA; - Running low-volume Rails apps&#xD;&#xA; - Testing whatever else I want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it's running Ubuntu Server, I can run almost anything on it. The issue I'm running into is running things that require a 64-bit architecture - the nc6220 is 32 bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is fairly cheap (less than it would cost to run an Amazon EC2 server for a couple years, meaning &lt; $200ish, but I'm flexible on the price&#xD;&#xA; - Has a 3.5mm headphone jack, or a way to output audio to that in some way (I don't care about it having a speaker)&#xD;&#xA; - Has a USB port or two, for connecting that external data dump hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - Has an Ethernet port or WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Can run a capable version of Linux - defined as being able to run Rails apps.&#xD;&#xA; - Won't suffocate or melt in a room with terrible ventilation (think about thirty square feet and no airflow)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm less concerned about 64-bit compatibility, but it would certainly be a plus. What would work for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="362" RevisionGUID="6908d3c2-250c-4fe9-b328-2d78c6f6aa2a" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:36:48.087" UserId="1" Text="Energy efficient, low-heat closet-server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="362" RevisionGUID="6908d3c2-250c-4fe9-b328-2d78c6f6aa2a" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:36:48.087" UserId="1" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1222" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="362" RevisionGUID="19fae416-0c14-40c5-ad68-bd66656cc3cf" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:42:55.653" UserId="1" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I'm currently using a Ye Olde [HP Compaq nc6220](http://www.engadget.com/products/hp/compaq/nc6220/specs/) running Ubuntu Server 15.04 as a server to run odd jobs in my closet. It's doing fine, but the room can get a little toasty (which is fine) and I'm fairly certain it's not the most energy efficient setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some examples of the odd jobs I run on it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Downloading the SE data dump about twice a year to a big external hard drive (it's around a 30GB dump) over a torrent&#xD;&#xA; - Playing music through a 3.5mm headphone jack throughout the day, managed by a cron job&#xD;&#xA; - Running a very, *very* low volume Apache server (it's on my local network, so this is basically no load beyond the base Apache-running load)&#xD;&#xA; - Running low-volume Rails apps&#xD;&#xA; - Testing whatever else I want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it's running Ubuntu Server, I can run almost anything on it. The issue I'm running into is running things that require a 64-bit architecture - the nc6220 is 32 bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is fairly cheap (less than it would cost to run an Amazon EC2 server for a couple years, meaning &lt; $200ish, but I'm flexible on the price&#xD;&#xA; - Has a 3.5mm headphone jack, or a way to output audio to that in some way (I don't care about it having a speaker)&#xD;&#xA; - Has a USB port or two, for connecting that external data dump hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - Has an Ethernet port or WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Can run a capable version of Linux - defined as being able to run Rails apps and compile C programs.&#xD;&#xA; - Won't suffocate or melt in a room with terrible ventilation (think about thirty square feet and no airflow)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm less concerned about 64-bit compatibility, but it would certainly be a plus. What would work for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="2ac04b98-203b-479b-9a18-1518cd6ac9b1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:21:27.397" UserId="48" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: The first thing that interests me the most are touchscreens - is there a special type of them, i.e. industrial ones, that are appropriate for this purpose? Where to find them and which one would you recommend me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, what about the computer? I thought about something like Hummingbird i2 or Cubox-i4Pro so it would support at least OpenGL 2.0, Wi-Fi adapter, keyboard and all those things and which would be ready to install the OS on it. Also it needs to be compatible with the chosen touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1224" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="2ac04b98-203b-479b-9a18-1518cd6ac9b1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:21:27.397" UserId="48" Text="Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1225" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="2ac04b98-203b-479b-9a18-1518cd6ac9b1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:21:27.397" UserId="48" Text="&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="1c1392bf-1682-4668-8979-1cac8988e120" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:27:05.187" UserId="48" Text="Can anyone recommend some hardware which meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB port (more than 1 would be handy but an USB hub could always be used)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suitable for running a reasonably small linux distribution (no gui needed. Want to run mysql and some other custom bits. I'm not quite sure how one goes about installing linux and configuring on a device without a video out? )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasonably small (thinking a small router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Low power consumption (less than 10W. Ideally closer to 1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a little background- I'm currently working on some home automation projects and having some usb/serial devices I want to capture data from and log to MySQL" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="1c1392bf-1682-4668-8979-1cac8988e120" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:27:05.187" UserId="48" Text="Recommendation for low-power, cheap, USB capable hardware to run Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="1c1392bf-1682-4668-8979-1cac8988e120" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:27:05.187" UserId="48" Text="&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="366" RevisionGUID="9ae91a09-9a0e-42a4-af7e-76e25210a341" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:29:08.123" UserId="48" Text="I'm having trouble finding a solution for setting up a switch for three laptops to two monitors. I'd need a KVM that matches the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3 inputs for the laptops;&#xD;&#xA;2 outputs to two monitors supporting extended monitor or multiple display (not mirrored), or some splitting solution, and;&#xD;&#xA;Doesn't break the bank.&#xD;&#xA;Expanded details: 3 laptops as sources&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 laptops have both VGA and HDMI out&#xD;&#xA;1 laptop only has HDMI out&#xD;&#xA;All laptops have several USB slots&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into a HDMI-&gt;VGA adapter (or even HDMI-&gt;DVI in case I want to convert all three to DVI). This seems like a good solution for getting my sources into a 4-port KVM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem I'm running into is the output. I have a requirement to output the source onto two monitors for an extended monitor (so long as it isn't mirror'd display which would be useless to my client). I haven't seem a KVM that has dual output from the console, but only 1 input from each CPU. I considered a DVI or VGA Y-splitter and read reviews that this only allows for mirrored displays. Any ideas? And if someone could confirm the behavior of Y-splitters, that could solve my problem easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, a KVM would be great but thinking outside of the box would be fine. I have considered RDC as a possible solution to this, but I don't believe my client is technical enough to buy into it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1233" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="366" RevisionGUID="9ae91a09-9a0e-42a4-af7e-76e25210a341" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:29:08.123" UserId="48" Text="KVM with dual output for extended desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1234" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="366" RevisionGUID="9ae91a09-9a0e-42a4-af7e-76e25210a341" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:29:08.123" UserId="48" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1235" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="366" RevisionGUID="42f2bda3-3bcd-4ccc-934a-fcf2ad9fa9db" CreationDate="2015-09-21T02:24:08.860" UserId="155" Comment="added formatting, improved punctuation" Text="I'm having trouble finding a solution for setting up a switch for three laptops to two monitors. I'd need a KVM that matches the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3 inputs for the laptops&#xD;&#xA;- 2 outputs to two monitors supporting extended monitor or multiple display (not mirrored), or some splitting solution&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't break the bank&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Extra details:  &#xD;&#xA;3 laptops will be used as sources, 2 laptops have both VGA and HDMI out, 1 laptop only has HDMI out, and all laptops have several USB slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into an HDMI-to-VGA adapter (or even HDMI-to-DVI in case I want to convert all three to DVI). This seems like a good solution for getting my sources into a 4-port KVM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem I'm running into is the output. I have a requirement to output the source onto two monitors for an extended monitor (so long as it isn't mirrored display which would be useless to my client). I haven't seen a KVM that has dual output from the console but only 1 input from each computer. I considered a DVI or VGA Y-splitter and read reviews that this only allows for mirrored displays. Any ideas? And if someone could confirm the behavior of Y-splitters, that could solve my problem easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, a KVM would be great, but thinking outside of the box would be fine. I have considered RDC as a possible solution to this, but I don't believe my client is technical enough to buy into it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="a7379f77-c96c-4bbd-99e0-205bc6aacfca" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:02:50.577" UserId="155" Comment="added tag and formatting, fixed punctuation" Text="Can anyone recommend some hardware which meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB port (more than 1 would be handy but a USB hub could always be used)&#xD;&#xA;- Suitable for running a reasonably small Linux distribution (No GUI needed. Want to run MySQL and some other custom bits. I'm not quite sure how one goes about installing Linux and configuring on a device without a video out.)&#xD;&#xA;- Reasonably small (thinking a small router)&#xD;&#xA;- Low power consumption (less than 10W, ideally closer to 1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a little background: I'm currently working on some home automation projects and having some USB/serial devices I want to capture data from and log to MySQL." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1238" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="a7379f77-c96c-4bbd-99e0-205bc6aacfca" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:02:50.577" UserId="155" Comment="added tag and formatting, fixed punctuation" Text="Recommendation for low-power, cheap, USB-capable hardware to run Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="365" RevisionGUID="a7379f77-c96c-4bbd-99e0-205bc6aacfca" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:02:50.577" UserId="155" Comment="added tag and formatting, fixed punctuation" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="304" RevisionGUID="208bbe65-5182-43cc-bbef-00e8589d663d" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:05:49.790" UserId="57" Comment="added 126 characters in body" Text="A mobile operating system developed by Google. Use this tag for products that run any version of the Android operating system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1241" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="304" RevisionGUID="208bbe65-5182-43cc-bbef-00e8589d663d" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:05:49.790" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 8, 155 edit id of 73" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1242" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="dc247bd4-b6a0-464a-97dc-32b6d0cae429" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:08:50.317" UserId="155" Comment="improved tag" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1243" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="20a0edb8-6dc8-4c47-aaba-00b03414c87d" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:11:55.460" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag, altered punctuation" Text="I am looking for a new Android e-book reader. The primary requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. OS: Officially supports Android v6.&#xD;&#xA;2. Weight: &lt; 300gr, preferably &lt; 250gr&#xD;&#xA;3. Price: &lt; $250&#xD;&#xA;4. Dimensions: not large (roughly the size of the [Nexus 7][1]: &#xD;&#xA;200mm × 114mm × 8.65mm)&#xD;&#xA;5. Memory: &gt; 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondary requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Pure or close-to-Pure Android (i.e., no bloatware)&#xD;&#xA;2. Water-resistant&#xD;&#xA;3. Comfortable to hold and read in one hand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nexus_7_(2013)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1244" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="20a0edb8-6dc8-4c47-aaba-00b03414c87d" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:11:55.460" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag, altered punctuation" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1245" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="04f2c92c-e11a-4874-ae05-3515ca947357" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:13:11.257" UserId="339" Comment="Removed SSD option due to a technological limitation to keep data over 10 years" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a quite high requirement ... industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 Years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say : you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3 here is what I can tell you :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. you need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation)&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2 : DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned : Lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years .... so be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD)&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least : you buy a very specific technology (like iomega zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time ... Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 1 : SSD has been removed. Please see Mark comments below." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="367" RevisionGUID="7bf93b12-8120-46d5-a36f-8de64a281cfa" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:14:45.170" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="368" RevisionGUID="29d6d79e-fbd0-42b2-ada8-d8bf30d1a488" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:14:45.170" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="369" RevisionGUID="bb57bc2c-0c87-4e3e-a39b-5d7dfbf8001d" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:21:08.613" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="370" RevisionGUID="fad7582c-7b51-43cd-9948-7ab181900037" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:21:08.613" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="8364955c-fbb7-43db-9c26-9744b9fb62aa" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:28:38.537" UserId="339" Comment="added 869 characters in body" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a quite high requirement ... industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 Years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say : you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3 here is what I can tell you :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. you need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation)&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2 : DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned : Lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years .... so be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD)&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least : you buy a very specific technology (like iomega zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time ... Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must consider to make your backup plan over a 5 Years Cycle and store your Backup media in a stabilized normal environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5 Years is the longest secured timespan of a device. Over those 5 years you automatically take the risk to loose your backup because you have no more warranty of your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means that, for whatever technology you use : you must redo/convert your backup media every 5 years as your platform changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also another consideration to take that is almost more important than your storage : Where is the possible target of your restore plan ? in a 10 years lifespan many of those devices are dead or evolved making your backup useless or at least make your restore plan a nightmare. That is why 5 years cycles are better because you can make live your data with the infrastructure evolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 1 : SSD has been removed. Please see Mark comments below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2 : Add a conclusion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="371" RevisionGUID="edb3aee5-06b6-499d-bc5b-bbbac6463ef3" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:29:04.177" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="372" RevisionGUID="1d7cc14e-22c1-4edd-887e-0b95ea2c8d4e" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:29:04.177" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1253" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="373" RevisionGUID="1c9918c5-edfb-4db8-adbd-87fed54448f6" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:32:07.533" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="374" RevisionGUID="39500bd3-e3d9-415b-8b13-5348d78f6f13" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:32:07.533" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="375" RevisionGUID="3c46b1c5-9ad6-47d5-af79-7de12dee85a5" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:34:10.430" UserId="241" Text="The classic device for low-power Linux usage is the [Raspberry Pi][1].  Either the model 1 B+ or the model 2 B will meet your needs: 4 USB ports, can run headless just fine, is about the size of a deck of cards, and draws about 3W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1256" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="8f5a8359-678c-4915-b5ec-a187899d967b" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:42:18.823" UserId="155" Comment="tag not needed" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="376" RevisionGUID="a1fa91a4-16d2-4481-afa4-7bfc554a3f92" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:48:08.573" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1258" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="377" RevisionGUID="c35e91ff-a844-4d6f-b589-026456221246" CreationDate="2015-09-21T06:48:08.573" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1259" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="aac7f4d6-5ab1-450e-8765-4e929e80460a" CreationDate="2015-09-21T08:39:24.110" UserId="48" Comment="Deleted last paragraph" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: The first thing that interests me the most are touchscreens - is there a special type of them, i.e. industrial ones, that are appropriate for this purpose? Where to find them and which one would you recommend me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1260" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="4b6651c3-ced3-46ed-9365-263389c20bad" CreationDate="2015-09-21T08:39:39.297" UserId="48" Comment="Rollback to [2ac04b98-203b-479b-9a18-1518cd6ac9b1]" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: The first thing that interests me the most are touchscreens - is there a special type of them, i.e. industrial ones, that are appropriate for this purpose? Where to find them and which one would you recommend me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, what about the computer? I thought about something like Hummingbird i2 or Cubox-i4Pro so it would support at least OpenGL 2.0, Wi-Fi adapter, keyboard and all those things and which would be ready to install the OS on it. Also it needs to be compatible with the chosen touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1263" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="5c046516-b132-4a01-9174-bcc3b0913c8c" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:35:25.390" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; This is a quite high requirement. Industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say: you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3rd here is what I can tell you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. You need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation).&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2: DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned: lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years. So be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD).&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least: you buy a very specific technology (like Iomega Zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time. Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under Windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must consider to make your backup plan over a 5 years cycle and store your backup media in a stabilized normal environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5 years is the longest secured timespan of a device. Over those 5 years you automatically take the risk to loose your backup because you have no more warranty of your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means that, for whatever technology you use: you must redo/convert your backup media every 5 years as your platform changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also another consideration to take that is almost more important than your storage: Where is the possible target of your restore plan? In a 10 years lifespan many of those devices are dead or evolved making your backup useless or at least make your restore plan a nightmare. That is why 5 years cycles are better because you can make live your data with the infrastructure evolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 1: SSD has been removed. Please see Mark comments below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: Add a conclusion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1264" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="5c046516-b132-4a01-9174-bcc3b0913c8c" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:35:25.390" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 214 edit id of 98" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="374" RevisionGUID="bacc95db-5b71-4963-b4b9-ac71d5cdf84a" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:35:55.743" UserId="155" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="Any technology able to be worn on the body without extra equipment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1266" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="374" RevisionGUID="bacc95db-5b71-4963-b4b9-ac71d5cdf84a" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:35:55.743" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 95" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1267" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="368" RevisionGUID="4009261a-0d21-454c-8271-7be4e43eb2d8" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:03.777" UserId="155" Comment="added 90 characters in body" Text="For questions related to hardware that enables the human brain to interact with computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1268" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="368" RevisionGUID="4009261a-0d21-454c-8271-7be4e43eb2d8" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:03.777" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 92" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="54f60ce6-6a46-4cf0-9522-198eb5305edf" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:15.763" UserId="155" Comment="improved punctuation" Text="Switched Mode Power Supply ‪— for power supplies specific to desktop computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1270" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="54f60ce6-6a46-4cf0-9522-198eb5305edf" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:15.763" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 96" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="372" RevisionGUID="7ccce188-c35d-4ebf-a976-f01bafd77e30" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:26.233" UserId="155" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="For questions related to hardware using Wireless Local Area Network technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1272" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="372" RevisionGUID="7ccce188-c35d-4ebf-a976-f01bafd77e30" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:26.233" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 94" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1273" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="370" RevisionGUID="26f15599-8f34-4684-8152-98e847081396" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:33.890" UserId="155" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="A method used to measure the properties of a sound near its source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1274" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="370" RevisionGUID="26f15599-8f34-4684-8152-98e847081396" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:36:33.890" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 93" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="340" RevisionGUID="d751d3ff-995b-4203-b24d-21cea4dc43bd" CreationDate="2015-09-21T14:48:49.263" UserId="77" Comment="added 440 characters in body" Text="If you already have a door you could just add in a new smartphone controlled controller,&#xD;&#xA;e.g. &#xD;&#xA;https://garageio.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Garageio is the simple and secure way to control and monitor your garage door from anywhere in the world, all without needing to replace your existing opener. The Garageio blackbox can easily be installed in your home garage, allowing control of up to three separate garage doors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is wifi enabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one door garageio box costs $199.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/K240q.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="378" RevisionGUID="5ae15a2c-7b0c-416a-b35d-42fea60591a4" CreationDate="2015-09-21T16:22:43.370" UserId="122" Text="As mentioned in the comments, some Android phones will come close, especially if you root/modify them afterwards.  There is alternative that has not been mentioned, from the Mozilla organization: [Firefox OS][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have only used one of these phones briefly (for a couple of hours) personally, but I know others have used them successfully and enjoyed the open nature of the phone in particular.  There are a list of supported devices [on the Mozilla site][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of ethically manufactured and produced phones, I don't think you will have much luck with the current crop. I know of projects in the formation stage like [FairPhone][3] but I haven't seen anything in the wild yet.  I suspect that the people behind such an effort in terms of manufacturing and sourcing will give similar thought to the software that runs on the device, but the intersection of the two desires (fully open, fully ethical) is likely to be quite niche (for now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox_OS&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://%20https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/os/devices/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.fairphone.com/about/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1277" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="f69f72ac-6ba8-4600-9fff-103407beea63" CreationDate="2015-09-21T16:54:41.760" UserId="21" Comment="add tag" Text="&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;comfortability&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;&lt;reliable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="a5602d41-ad48-46f2-b39c-ab1f79cb749e" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:00:08.487" UserId="65" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Historically, optical media appears to have been the best choice for inexpensive 10-20 year storage, but over the years, optical storage just hasn't kept up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CD-R was introduced around 1988 with 600-750MB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 30MB (20x hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;* DVD-R was introduced around 1997 with 4.7-9GB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 5GB (1x hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;* BD-R was introduced around 2006 with 25-50GB of storage when typical computer hard drives were around 300GB (1/6 hard drive storage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the most inexpensive option for 10-20 year data archival?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. reasonably reliable (maybe 95%) after at least 10 years in typical home storage (on a shelf with temperatures around 70 degrees F +/- 20 degrees)&#xD;&#xA;2. have a reasonable capacity of at least 500GB&#xD;&#xA;3. cost less than HDD, and &#xD;&#xA;4. be a technology that is likely to still be around in 10 years (no single-manufacturer devices unless they are so popular that working used devices are likely to be available and usable in at least 10 years, like Iomega Zip drives were)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="379" RevisionGUID="b083539a-724c-4059-8d3f-ace7b8896bbb" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:19:20.993" UserId="21" Text="Although I have chosen to take a look at Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear phones, I couldn't really buy it for a affordable price from my country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've found the [Philips SHE7050BK][1] and it covers the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Good sound quality - Frequency response of 8Hz - 23kHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * &lt;s&gt;Reliability - *To be tested* &lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Strong cable - Flat anti-tangle cables&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Comfortability - Different ear caps for a perfect fit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Extras:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    * Noise isolating ear caps&#xD;&#xA;    * Finely tuned 9mm drivers&#xD;&#xA;    * Rubberized cable relief&#xD;&#xA;    * Price range at $30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/SHE7050BK_00/citiscape-indies-citiscape-in-ear-headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1280" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="d3962c6e-acb8-4efc-ab68-876d13094642" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:30:08.917" UserId="1" Comment="grammar/spelling improvements" Text="I've been searching for a good earphone for years but they always stop working after a few months. Sometimes its cable simply tears off, disconnects from the 'head' or starts malfunctioning. There was even an earphone that sounded great but then stopped working for no apparent reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a earphone with those qualities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Good sound quality - I aim to listen mostly 320kbps MP3 music files with a lot of different instruments/sounds at the same time (progressive, fusion, avant-garde)&#xD;&#xA;* Reliability - I prefer a not-so-good earphone that lasts for over a year than a great one that stops working after a month &#xD;&#xA;* Strong cable - The main reason that I want an earphone and not a pair of headphones is because of its portability, but most phones I had couldn't have their cables a little twisted without sounding worse (sometimes permanently)&#xD;&#xA;* Comfortability - I tend to use earphones for at least half of my awake time on week days so I want and need them to be comfortable that way I don't need to take it off each couple of minutes or every other hour to avoid hurting my ears&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a plus it could come with a small case to protect it inside my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I know those qualities just by looking at the phone specs? Is there a general way better than asking around or trying out the luck with trial and error? Where can I find a good earphone that's not so expensive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1281" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="d3962c6e-acb8-4efc-ab68-876d13094642" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:30:08.917" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 21 edit id of 99" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="e0816d47-a0e3-4833-93f2-867da9c08d41" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:36:17.807" UserId="82" Text="I'm looking for an external SATA enclosure to host a minimum of 4 standard 3.5&quot; form-factor SATA hard disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a 4-disk enclosure from Vantec that uses a SATA port expander but has a drawback that one port always reads as SMART disabled regadless of the disk and overall suffers from poor cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Minimum of 4 disk enclosure for 3.5&quot; form-factor SATA disks&#xD;&#xA;- Good cooling, ideally low vibration and not too loud&#xD;&#xA;- eSATA data interface&#xD;&#xA;- Not a rackmount solution.  This will sit on a desk or on the floor.&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally can accommodate 6 GB/s SATA III disks at full bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;- Externally powered with a switch to turn it off&#xD;&#xA;- Fairly easy install/removal of disks in the enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case is intermittent backup where the disks and enclosure are only on and spinning during the backups." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="e0816d47-a0e3-4833-93f2-867da9c08d41" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:36:17.807" UserId="82" Text="External SATA enclosure for multiple disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="e0816d47-a0e3-4833-93f2-867da9c08d41" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:36:17.807" UserId="82" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1285" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="1166a638-5d6c-4a83-983e-696c35479dce" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:42:20.630" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [comfort] tag." Text="&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1286" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="1166a638-5d6c-4a83-983e-696c35479dce" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:42:20.630" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 6 edit id of 100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="381" RevisionGUID="584ed86b-8808-4f04-911d-3c4133aa2ef1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:44:09.443" UserId="313" Text="During my search for the reader, I have come across Barnes and Noble's [Nook][1]; which deserves a mention here, just in case anyone is looking for a budget e-book reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About Nook, in the words of Barnes and Nobles:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Our highest resolution E Ink® device helps you find your next read&#xD;&#xA;&gt; faster and has a new GlowLight that more evenly illuminates the entire&#xD;&#xA;&gt; page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Memory:** Holds a lot of books. So, memory isn't a problem. In fact, worrying about memory for any e-reader&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Weight:** Lighter than the Kindle&#xD;&#xA; 3. **E-ink:** Has Eink. And @belford has explained the advantages of an e-ink reader very nicely.&#xD;&#xA; 4. **Built in reading light:** A wonderful feature for travellers. The reading light is gentle and perfectly aligns/blends with the pages, not making it too flashy.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;About the back-light and the battery life:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; With GlowLight on at the default brightness setting, a single charge&#xD;&#xA;&gt; will last over 1 month with wireless off based on ½ hour of daily&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading and 1 page refresh per minute. A single charge lasts over 2&#xD;&#xA;&gt; months with wireless off and GlowLight off based on ½ hour of daily&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading time and 1 page refresh per minute. Battery life depends on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; device settings, usage, and many other factors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price:** $99 and free shipping. So, it is cheaper than the Kindle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a lot of reviews of Nook all over the internet, but as I trust [Amazon Reviews][2], I am including the link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://nook.barnesandnoble.com/u/nook-glowlight-ereader/379004122&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Barnes-Noble-NOOK-WiFi-Tablet/product-reviews/1400501776" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="e46f6d3f-b939-487d-b210-536d6b468d5f" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:50:09.940" UserId="48" Comment="Split into two - this is screen only" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: &#xD;&#xA;The first thing that interests me the most are touchscreens - is there a special type of them, i.e. industrial ones, that are appropriate for this purpose? Where to find them and which one would you recommend me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer is covered here [Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - computer][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/382/choosing-the-right-hardware-for-an-interactive-kiosk-computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1289" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="e46f6d3f-b939-487d-b210-536d6b468d5f" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:50:09.940" UserId="48" Comment="Split into two - this is screen only" Text="Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="41ae7f42-4ea1-4456-ab83-a325d1a60d8e" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:52:58.940" UserId="48" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen is covered here [Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - screen][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, what about the computer? I thought about something like Hummingbird i2 or Cubox-i4Pro so it would support at least OpenGL 2.0, Wi-Fi adapter, keyboard and all those things and which would be ready to install the OS on it. Also it needs to be compatible with the chosen touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/363/choosing-the-right-hardware-for-an-interactive-kiosk-screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1291" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="41ae7f42-4ea1-4456-ab83-a325d1a60d8e" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:52:58.940" UserId="48" Text="Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1292" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="41ae7f42-4ea1-4456-ab83-a325d1a60d8e" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:52:58.940" UserId="48" Text="&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="383" RevisionGUID="99c51b14-dd66-4f99-ada6-672307e0097c" CreationDate="2015-09-21T18:08:33.520" UserId="67" Text="A Raspberry Pi might be an option, esp. considering it's low power consumption, as well as low cost.  WebGL is somewhat experimental, but HTML or Java would work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi 2 has good specs ($35 gives you 1GB RAM and a quadcore CPU), and additionally it has a large community around it so many things are better documented and better supported. Additionally, Linux is very well supported and works well, in contrast to some other similar devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need to get a USB WiFi adapter as well as an SD card for storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1294" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="383" RevisionGUID="1ac2352b-adde-4ad0-9489-e98d22bebaa8" CreationDate="2015-09-21T18:43:44.673" UserId="67" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="A Raspberry Pi might be an option, esp. considering it's low power consumption, as well as low cost.  WebGL is somewhat experimental, but HTML or Java would work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi 2 has good specs ($35 gives you 1GB RAM and a quadcore CPU), and additionally it has a large community around it so many things are better documented and better supported. Additionally, Linux is very well supported and works well, in contrast to some other similar devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need to get a USB WiFi adapter as well as a (micro)SD card for storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="385" RevisionGUID="578428a2-df98-4c73-b781-0b719f308144" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:44:30.300" UserId="60" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He is hasn't decided if he wants to do any type of rendering yet, so to be safe, lets assume he will be. The graphics card doesn't have to be a power renderer, just something to get the job done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must be the latest generation of GPU chips. I would like this to last as long as possible for him.&#xD;&#xA;- Can play most modern games on at least medium settings.&#xD;&#xA;- Can help him with at least some of his course work. (I do not know what programs he will use. I also do not know how intensive his work will be.)&#xD;&#xA;- Support for two 1080p monitors&#xD;&#xA;- PCI Express 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;- Price &gt; $800 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to have it support two 4K monitors in case he wants to upgrade, but it is not a requirement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1301" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="385" RevisionGUID="578428a2-df98-4c73-b781-0b719f308144" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:44:30.300" UserId="60" Text="Graphics card for new college computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1302" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="385" RevisionGUID="578428a2-df98-4c73-b781-0b719f308144" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:44:30.300" UserId="60" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;gpu&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1303" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="378" RevisionGUID="1dfce412-e6ae-4437-b223-7942d43e4dcc" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:54:08.833" UserId="122" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="As mentioned in the comments, some Android phones will come close, especially if you root/modify them afterwards.  There is an alternative that has not been mentioned, from the Mozilla organization: [Firefox OS][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have only used one of these phones briefly (for a couple of hours) personally, but I know others have used them successfully and enjoyed the open nature of the phone in particular.  There are a list of supported devices [on the Mozilla site][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of ethically manufactured and produced phones, I don't think you will have much luck with the current crop. I know of projects in the formation stage like [FairPhone][3] but I haven't seen anything in the wild yet.  I suspect that the people behind such an effort in terms of manufacturing and sourcing will give similar thought to the software that runs on the device, but the intersection of the two desires (fully open, fully ethical) is likely to be quite niche (for now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox_OS&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://%20https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/os/devices/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.fairphone.com/about/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1305" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="d630d1f5-f18f-4def-aac0-4c03cec2b01a" CreationDate="2015-09-21T23:05:05.763" UserId="54" Comment="2" />
  <row Id="1306" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="385" RevisionGUID="3dc9ee06-1d1b-45b5-8d93-1e42f14538d8" CreationDate="2015-09-22T00:07:56.210" UserId="60" Comment="fixed stupid mistake" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He is hasn't decided if he wants to do any type of rendering yet, so to be safe, lets assume he will be. The graphics card doesn't have to be a power renderer, just something to get the job done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must be the latest generation of GPU chips. I would like this to last as long as possible for him.&#xD;&#xA;- Can play most modern games on at least medium settings.&#xD;&#xA;- Can help him with at least some of his course work. (I do not know what programs he will use. I also do not know how intensive his work will be.)&#xD;&#xA;- Support for two 1080p monitors&#xD;&#xA;- PCI Express 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;- Price &lt; $800 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to have it support two 4K monitors in case he wants to upgrade, but it is not a requirement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="386" RevisionGUID="54b6c033-a009-4f48-9b98-21f07be642c3" CreationDate="2015-09-22T01:51:01.610" UserId="155" Text="For under $800 you can get some pretty insane video cards. Ever since the Nvidia GTX 900 series came out, manufacturers have been cramming as much as they can into every product (and that's a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA GTX 980 Ti FTW](https://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=06G-P4-4996-KR)** (~$680)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Maxwell GPU architecture&#xD;&#xA;- Supports 4 monitors (max digital resolution: 4096x2160)&#xD;&#xA;- 6GB 384-bit GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 16x&#xD;&#xA;- Clocks &amp; cores: 1190MHz core, 1291MHz boost, 2816 CUDA Cores&#xD;&#xA;- DVI-I, 3x DisplayPort, HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one will last for quite a long time considering its VRAM, clock speeds, and resolution support. It can play most PC games on very high or ultra settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I **strongly** recommend EVGA's Nvidia cards. These things are monsters and they're all backed by tons and tons of positive ratings. Great build quality, great support, great everything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1308" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="0c88f99e-cefb-4469-a5de-ad6fc877957e" CreationDate="2015-09-22T02:00:55.937" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="386" RevisionGUID="846f1aa2-c514-46c5-864f-378021de215e" CreationDate="2015-09-22T02:28:09.883" UserId="155" Comment="added 502 characters in body" Text="For under $800 you can get some pretty insane video cards. Ever since the Nvidia GTX 900 series came out, manufacturers have been cramming as much as they can into every product (and that's a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA GTX 980 Ti FTW](https://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=06G-P4-4996-KR)** (~$680)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Maxwell GPU architecture&#xD;&#xA;- Supports 4 monitors (max digital resolution: 4096x2160)&#xD;&#xA;- 6GB 384-bit GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 16x&#xD;&#xA;- Clocks &amp; cores: 1190MHz core, 1291MHz boost, 2816 CUDA Cores&#xD;&#xA;- DVI-I, 3x DisplayPort, HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one will last for quite a long time considering its VRAM, clock speeds, and resolution support. It can play most PC games on very high or ultra settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I **strongly** recommend EVGA's Nvidia cards. These things are monsters and they're all backed by tons and tons of positive ratings. Great build quality, great support, great everything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Workstation cards are made for rendering, but the problem there is that features are very restricted. For instance, the [FirePro W7100](http://www.amd.com/en-us/products/graphics/workstation/firepro-3d/7100) is a decent price and has more VRAM but it only outputs DisplayPort, has a smaller memory interface, and bandwidth is drastically lower. These are a few features that matter with non-workstations, and since you aren't sure if this will be used for rendering, the risk isn't worth it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="04c6903d-1314-4d95-9550-49f1381ba696" CreationDate="2015-09-22T05:20:33.463" UserId="313" Text="Are there any nice and affordable, wearable fitness-tracking devices, which can track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1311" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="04c6903d-1314-4d95-9550-49f1381ba696" CreationDate="2015-09-22T05:20:33.463" UserId="313" Text="What are some nice fitness event/activity tracking devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1312" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="04c6903d-1314-4d95-9550-49f1381ba696" CreationDate="2015-09-22T05:20:33.463" UserId="313" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1313" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="253d9c20-e59f-4dfa-a7d2-5a4b6525eacc" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:11:37.187" UserId="313" Comment="Expanded" Text="Are there any nice and affordable, wearable fitness-tracking devices, which can track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Edited after Mark's comment below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:** No issues&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weight:** As it's a wearable, the lighter the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery Life:** A decent battery life is okay, as I would be wearing it in my home most of the time, so I can charge it whenever it gets down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**software compatibility:** If it comes with an app which can show my progress, etc on my android phone, there's nothing like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I'd be using it during exercise, something which is durable would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="388" RevisionGUID="1420fd1d-5ad4-41e7-b69a-b5d0f56db1c4" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:24:03.477" UserId="352" Text="I have an opportunity to buy a used [Dell T5400][1] for a very reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     CPU: Xeon E5420&#xD;&#xA;     Clock: 2500 Mhz&#xD;&#xA;     Cores: 4 - Quad Core&#xD;&#xA;     RAM: 4GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;     Disk: 250GB&#xD;&#xA;     GPU: nVidia Quadro NVS DMS-&gt;2x DVI&#xD;&#xA;     OS: Windows 8.1 Professional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously this is a work computer. The gfx card is really not fit for gaming (I have the very same model at work, just with 20GB of RAM, tried running some games and the framerate is abysmal). Most likely I'd purchase more RAM, and moving disks from the old computer I'd have some 1.5TB of storage. But the primary decision for now is the gfx card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget for the gfx card is around $250-$300. The primary use would be games, with some graphics editing, programming and home use on the side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which gfx card that fits that model, that would fit within the budget would provide optimal gaming performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...or is it a misguided endeavor and I should just pick a different computer, or at least change something else - different CPU etc?&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/dfb/p/precision-t5400/pd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1315" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="388" RevisionGUID="1420fd1d-5ad4-41e7-b69a-b5d0f56db1c4" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:24:03.477" UserId="352" Text="How to turn Dell Precision T5400 into a gaming computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1316" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="388" RevisionGUID="1420fd1d-5ad4-41e7-b69a-b5d0f56db1c4" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:24:03.477" UserId="352" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="260" RevisionGUID="58bf56f8-642d-4653-a394-877ad2687d3c" CreationDate="2015-09-22T11:07:59.883" UserId="313" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="Is there any nice light-weight e-book reader which is easy on the eye?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred specifications include: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display: Touch and (Something which is easy on the eye would be preferable)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Decent battery life  (I would be traveling a lot, so something which can run for weeks would be very good)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Storage: Should be able to store at least 200 books at a time. (That's a threshold requirement. The more, the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am a traveler, a device which is sturdy and durable would be nice for some quick reads during travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should support most e-book formats like epub, pdf, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am an avid user of [Goodreads][1], a Goodreads app or integration would also help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.goodreads.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="391" RevisionGUID="ac78d156-34cd-4ebe-b203-d2ff1c99c636" CreationDate="2015-09-22T13:54:34.430" UserId="352" Text="Which of modern (desktop PC) CPUs would provide best performance in single-threaded applications?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some games that haven't been optimized for multi-core use, and the CPU speed is their bottleneck (for physics calculations primarily).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know the end of the line in the gigahertz race were Intel's single-core CPUs of over 4GHz, but then the companies began scaling the speed back while adding more cores or features like hyperthreading. Support for these old extra-fast single core CPUs is scarce nowadays, plus older motherboards, slower RAM and AGP cards would create new bottlenecks, so a more modern alternative would be preferred. So, which of modern CPUs is best suited for this kind of operation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1328" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="391" RevisionGUID="ac78d156-34cd-4ebe-b203-d2ff1c99c636" CreationDate="2015-09-22T13:54:34.430" UserId="352" Text="Which modern CPU for best single-threaded performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1329" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="391" RevisionGUID="ac78d156-34cd-4ebe-b203-d2ff1c99c636" CreationDate="2015-09-22T13:54:34.430" UserId="352" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;microprocessor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="392" RevisionGUID="3b568a91-c570-40e5-9dda-a23e781d330c" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:13:40.390" UserId="153" Text="The Mediasonic Probox looks like a good option for you. It can be found [here][1] It has support for esata and usb 3.0. It has fairly good cooling with a thermal sensor to automatically change the fan speed. It has a power switch and can give you 6 gigabytes per second which is the maximum you are going to find in a sata 3 disk. It also has 4 bay enclosoures and it is not a rackmount solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442930882&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=external%20sata%20enclosure" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="d04fd808-735a-44b0-ba15-e43d5342876c" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:44:36.183" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos, and added link to comment" Text="Are there any nice and affordable, wearable fitness-tracking devices, which can track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Edited after [Mark][1]'s [comment][2] below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:** No issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weight:** As it's a wearable, the lighter the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery Life:** A decent battery life is okay, as I would be wearing it in my home most of the time, so I can charge it whenever it gets down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Software Compatibility:** If it comes with an app which can show my progress, etc. on my android phone, there's nothing like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I'd be using it during exercise, something which is durable would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/241/mark&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/387/what-are-some-nice-fitness-event-activity-tracking-devices#comment-764" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1332" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="d04fd808-735a-44b0-ba15-e43d5342876c" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:44:36.183" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57, 214 edit id of 102" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="393" RevisionGUID="2f1de3c8-1507-419e-b3b9-d93059827d3c" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:28:34.297" UserId="48" Text="Whilst most people I know have the ubiquitous  *Fitbit*, I have heard good things about the *Microsoft Band*. It is meant to have a few more features, although it is, unfortunately, lacking the Leaderboard community aspect. It is however compatible with Android, as is the Fitbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If money is no object, then why not go for an Apple Watch, whose features seem superlative? Although, I personally would wait for the Apple Watch 2, as the first version of anything generally has bugs that will be ironed out in the subsequent version. However, having said that it will not be compatible with your Android phone. Although, if money really is no object, you could always get an Apple phone as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might want to take a look at [Best Fitness Trackers 2015][1], from TomsGuide. They have come up with eight &quot;top picks&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fitbit Charge HR;&#xD;&#xA; - Jawbone Up Move;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Vivoactive;&#xD;&#xA; - Withings Activité Pop;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Forerunner 225;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Forerunner 15;&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft band, and finally;&#xD;&#xA; - Moov.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-fitness-trackers,review-2066.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="95663ce8-d909-4fac-80b7-3813f040b4b6" CreationDate="2015-09-22T16:14:52.877" UserId="82" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an external SATA enclosure to host a minimum of 4 standard 3.5&quot; form-factor SATA hard disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a 4-disk enclosure from Vantec that uses a SATA port multiplier but has a drawback that one port always reads as SMART disabled regadless of the disk and overall suffers from poor cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Minimum of 4 disk enclosure for 3.5&quot; form-factor SATA disks&#xD;&#xA;- Good cooling, ideally low vibration and not too loud&#xD;&#xA;- eSATA data interface&#xD;&#xA;- Not a rackmount solution.  This will sit on a desk or on the floor.&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally can accommodate 6 GB/s SATA III disks at full bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;- Externally powered with a switch to turn it off&#xD;&#xA;- Fairly easy install/removal of disks in the enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case is intermittent backup where the disks and enclosure are only on and spinning during the backups." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="394" RevisionGUID="22ca5d29-9094-4604-a0aa-ec106d4cc75e" CreationDate="2015-09-22T16:17:38.760" UserId="122" Text="OK, so I have used an [older version][1] of this product with success, but not had a chance to use their latest version.  My experience was good enough to make a general recommendation.  [Icy Dock][2] now offers a 4 disk enclosure, with lots of nice options (including adjustable fan speeds, dust filters, drive trays) called [Black Vortex][3].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need to have [port-multiplier][4] support to use the eSATA interface and that is limited to SATA II speeds (3 GB/s).  I should note that I used USB personally on the Icy Dock, and FireWire 800 on an Drobo rather than eSATA - my experiments with eSATA drives have been poor (might just be my bad luck).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On that point, you will only get one channel's worth of SATA II bandwidth (3GB/s) with this approach. That is significantly less than a well performing USB 3.0 interface, especially when you consider that a single channel SATA II is limited to ~300MB/s thanks to [8b/10b encoding][5].  USB 3.0 will likely outperform eSATA here, so worth considering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=201&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.icydock.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.icydock.com/goods_cat.php?id=146&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_multiplier&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8b/10b_encoding" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="381" RevisionGUID="b21b7925-a73c-4cf6-8cc3-e3cc335a6d09" CreationDate="2015-09-22T16:44:03.520" UserId="313" Comment="Fixed link" Text="During my search for the reader, I have come across Barnes and Noble's [Nook][1]; which deserves a mention here, just in case anyone is looking for a budget e-book reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About Nook, in the words of Barnes and Nobles:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Our highest resolution E Ink® device helps you find your next read&#xD;&#xA;&gt; faster and has a new GlowLight that more evenly illuminates the entire&#xD;&#xA;&gt; page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Memory:** Holds a lot of books. So, memory isn't a problem. In fact, worrying about memory for any e-reader&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Weight:** Lighter than the Kindle&#xD;&#xA; 3. **E-ink:** Has Eink. And @belford has explained the advantages of an e-ink reader very nicely.&#xD;&#xA; 4. **Built in reading light:** A wonderful feature for travellers. The reading light is gentle and perfectly aligns/blends with the pages, not making it too flashy.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;About the back-light and the battery life:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; With GlowLight on at the default brightness setting, a single charge&#xD;&#xA;&gt; will last over 1 month with wireless off based on ½ hour of daily&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading and 1 page refresh per minute. A single charge lasts over 2&#xD;&#xA;&gt; months with wireless off and GlowLight off based on ½ hour of daily&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading time and 1 page refresh per minute. Battery life depends on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; device settings, usage, and many other factors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price:** $99 and free shipping. So, it is cheaper than the Kindle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a lot of reviews of Nook all over the internet, but as I trust [Amazon Reviews][2], I am including the link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://nook.barnesandnoble.com/u/nook-glowlight-ereader/379004122&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/NOOK-GLOWLIGHT-eBook-Reader-BNRV500/dp/1400699894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442940002&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=barnes+and+noble+glowlight" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="395" RevisionGUID="92f55ae0-52e8-44ba-85e2-b62207d7cf34" CreationDate="2015-09-22T17:39:32.250" UserId="122" Text="Personally, I would go with a Mac here, but that is because it is what I am familiar with for development work.  I have been a Windows user since the 90s, and still have a Windows machine, but since 2004 (ish) I have used OS X for professional work (multiple Macbook Pros and Mac Minis) and have never regretted it once the initial adjustment period was over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will point something out that has not been mentioned, if you you pick a Macbook Pro you still have the option to legally use Windows in a VM (I have a Windows 10 VM on my MBP) or via Bootcamp.  If you pick a Windows laptop then you no longer have OS X as a (legal, non-hacky) option.  So, ignoring the cost aspect, the Macbook Pro leaves your options open in terms of what OS to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, with the stated goal of learning Front End Development, I would recommend that you choose whatever represents the least impediment to your learning.  If you are most comfortable with Windows, then go with that, if you are more comfortable with OS X, then that should be your choice.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, with that said, this is a hardware recommendation site so I should tackle the question from that point of view rather than ease of use and the OS options.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First on my list, is build quality. There are some non-Apple models that approach the build quality of a Macbook Pro, but you will need to do some research - consistency between model refreshes can be a problem even for normally reliable brands.  I have used multiple models over multiple years from Apple and they are very, very consistent in this regard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps even more telling: I have had 4 Macbook Pros provided for me by my employer, but for about 18 months that was not the case and I had to buy my own laptop.   I evaluated many, many options (several years previously I did the same thing and ended up with a Sony).  In the end, none of the models I evaluated could touch the Mac for build quality.  I purchased the MBP with my own money and can honestly say that I felt no regret at all, I felt I had gotten value - it's a good acid test for anything - when you fork over the money, do you feel ripped off or do you feel satisfaction with your purchase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second in my list comes the keyboard and trackpad.  Make sure you use the keyboard and trackpad in person, don't rely on reviews - it's too much of a personal preference in terms of tactile response, feedback etc. - only you know what laptop &quot;feels right&quot; when you are using it.  You are going to do a lot of typing on it, make sure it feels good.  Note: here is where I am mostly &quot;locked in&quot; to Mac laptops now - their keyboards and trackpads are how I expect things to work, anything that fails to hit those same notes just feels wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, the screen.  The retina screen tech is very nice and the extra real estate helps if you aren't going to be plugging it into external monitors.  Yes, you can get non-Mac laptops to match the resolutions, but they won't come cheap.  I used to detest glossy screens, but the retinas are nice enough to convince me to give them a shot - so far, so good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, size and weight.  I am not a small person, and I find the 15&quot; MBP to be the perfect trade off in terms of size versus functionality in a laptop.  I have tried out smaller laptops and found the keyboard and the screen too cramped.  Plus, they keep making it smaller and lighter - my 2015 MBP is a lot better than my 2009 in that regard (I no longer have my 2004 model to compare unfortunately).  That being said - you have to lug this thing around, so make sure you won't be looking enviously at people with 11&quot; ultrabooks when doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might seem odd that I don't mention memory, CPU or disk.  I don't mention them because if you pick a recent model MBP it won't be a concern for the work you mentioned (maybe for Photoshop), and if you pick something else you will be looking to match or exceed those specifications in any case.  Just make sure you have an SSD - it's just not worth it not to these days." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="395" RevisionGUID="0ec370e4-91ff-4702-a68c-a8778c58fa6a" CreationDate="2015-09-22T17:50:25.973" UserId="122" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="Personally, I would go with a Mac here, but that is because it is what I am familiar with for development work.  I have been a Windows user since the 90s, and still have a Windows machine, but since 2004 (ish) I have used OS X for professional work (multiple Macbook Pros and Mac Minis) and have never regretted it once the initial adjustment period was over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will point something out that has not been mentioned, if you you pick a Macbook Pro you still have the option to legally use Windows in a VM (I have a Windows 10 VM on my MBP) or via [Bootcamp][1].  If you pick a Windows laptop then you no longer have OS X as a (legal, non-hacky) option.  So, ignoring the cost aspect, the Macbook Pro leaves your options open in terms of what OS to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, with the stated goal of learning Front End Development, I would recommend that you choose whatever represents the least impediment to your learning.  If you are most comfortable with Windows, then go with that, if you are more comfortable with OS X, then that should be your choice.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, with that said, this is a hardware recommendation site so I should tackle the question from that point of view rather than ease of use and the OS options.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First on my list, is build quality. There are some non-Apple models that approach the build quality of a Macbook Pro, but you will need to do some research - consistency between model refreshes can be a problem even for normally reliable brands.  I have used multiple models over multiple years from Apple and they are very, very consistent in this regard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps even more telling: I have had 4 Macbook Pros provided for me by my employer, but for about 18 months that was not the case and I had to buy my own laptop.   I evaluated many, many options (several years previously I did the same thing and ended up with a Sony).  In the end, none of the models I evaluated could touch the Mac for build quality.  I purchased the MBP with my own money and can honestly say that I felt no regret at all, I felt I had gotten value - it's a good acid test for anything - when you fork over the money, do you feel ripped off or do you feel satisfaction with your purchase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second in my list comes the keyboard and trackpad.  Make sure you use the keyboard and trackpad in person, don't rely on reviews - it's too much of a personal preference in terms of tactile response, feedback etc. - only you know what laptop &quot;feels right&quot; when you are using it.  You are going to do a lot of typing on it, make sure it feels good.  Note: here is where I am mostly &quot;locked in&quot; to Mac laptops now - their keyboards and trackpads are how I expect things to work, anything that fails to hit those same notes just feels wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, the screen.  The retina screen tech is very nice and the extra real estate helps if you aren't going to be plugging it into external monitors.  Yes, you can get non-Mac laptops to match the resolutions, but they won't come cheap.  I used to detest glossy screens, but the retinas are nice enough to convince me to give them a shot - so far, so good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, size and weight.  I am not a small person, and I find the 15&quot; MBP to be the perfect trade off in terms of size versus functionality in a laptop.  I have tried out smaller laptops and found the keyboard and the screen too cramped.  Plus, they keep making it smaller and lighter - my 2015 MBP is a lot better than my 2009 in that regard (I no longer have my 2004 model to compare unfortunately).  That being said - you have to lug this thing around, so make sure you won't be looking enviously at people with 11&quot; ultrabooks when doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might seem odd that I don't mention memory, CPU or disk.  I don't mention them because if you pick a recent model MBP it won't be a concern for the work you mentioned (maybe for Photoshop), and if you pick something else you will be looking to match or exceed those specifications in any case.  Just make sure you have an SSD - it's just not worth it not to these days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="396" RevisionGUID="0a5fcc08-e524-4b94-9ec1-6a9ef6d4fa2b" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:08:36.867" UserId="122" Text="I can second Kindle as an option (I have used an older model and a paper white) - for reading novels and other easily rendered text-only fare, it is a great product.  The ability to function in direct sunlight as well as darkness without destroying your eyes is a huge advantage over other options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Kindle app is available on other platforms too though (Android, iOS, desktop OS) and I have found it extremely useful to have a larger format, color capable reader for a couple of use cases:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Graphic Novels - if you like the format, then you will need more than e-ink&#xD;&#xA;2. Technical reading - diagrams, code samples, text that reacts poorly to being broken up all benefit from the larger format option&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also used Kindle on my phone (it syncs to the furthest read location on multiple devices) for those times that you forget your reader/tablet or are unexpectedly bored.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hence my recommendation, if you can afford it, is a multi-device approach for maximum satisfaction.  Whether you go with Kindle or not, make sure that your chosen app and format are usable with several types of devices (syncing is so useful too).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For travel, the phone is probably an easy choice (as long as your screen is reasonably sized).  The tablet is a personal call - you can replace it with a laptop, but I find that awkward in restricted space (planes, trains) - decent tablets can also be loaded up with films/games etc. for the times your onboard entertainment options are poor.  Personally, I leave the tablet at home for travel unless I know that I have a long flight where I need to do tech reading or I know the entertainment options are going to be horrible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1341" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="393" RevisionGUID="f4fe847a-1491-44bd-ab93-799aa8645303" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:32:12.650" UserId="48" Comment="Added emphasis" Text="Whilst most people I know have the ubiquitous  *Fitbit*, I have heard good things about the *Microsoft Band*. It is meant to have a few more features, although it is, unfortunately, lacking the Leaderboard community aspect. It is however compatible with Android, as is the Fitbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If money is no object, then why not go for an Apple Watch, whose features seem superlative? Although, I personally would wait for the Apple Watch 2, as the first version of anything generally has bugs that will be ironed out in the subsequent version. However, having said that it will not be compatible with your Android phone. Although, if money *really* is no object, you could always get an Apple phone as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might want to take a look at [Best Fitness Trackers 2015][1], from TomsGuide. They have come up with eight &quot;top picks&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fitbit Charge HR;&#xD;&#xA; - Jawbone Up Move;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Vivoactive;&#xD;&#xA; - Withings Activité Pop;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Forerunner 225;&#xD;&#xA; - Garmin Forerunner 15;&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft band, and finally;&#xD;&#xA; - Moov.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-fitness-trackers,review-2066.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="397" RevisionGUID="e66019d6-4660-4987-9aa2-56111aa11953" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:42:19.113" UserId="60" Text="If you are willing to wait, you could get the [Logitech Z333 Multimedia Speakers](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/multimedia-speakers-z333?crid=1589). As this hasn't been released yet, I can only go off of the spec sheet and online reviews, but this looks like it would fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a 2.1 speaker system that costs $80 USD. The subwoofer is flat-bottomed, has its own independent controller, and has a 5 inch, front facing driver. The sub is rated at 23 Watts while the two satellites are rated at 8 Watts each. While the website doesn't say exactly how big the drivers are for the satellites, the width of the satellites is about 4.25 inches, so I would expect the drivers are in the range of 2.5 - 3.5 inches in diameter. There are four 5 foot cables for this system (plus input cables): one for the power (wall to sub), one for each satellite (sub to satellite), and one volume controller (controller to sub).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This system has both a 3.5 mm auxiliary input and stereo RCA inputs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With about half of your budget left, you add a [Bluetooth Audio Adapter](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/bluetooth-audio-adapter?WT.ac=ps|11380|bluetoothaudioadapter-CTA1) for $40 that allows you to stream music from any Bluetooth enabled audio device. With both of these items, you are still below your $150 budget (excluding shipping). &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="9f1d6808-b267-4468-9c14-3d042d8803b7" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:55:38.070" UserId="61" Comment="added 51 characters in body" Text="I have some potential options that may be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 1: Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal **[software][2]**. Another option that is available now from my understanding is the **[Cadent][3]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 2: Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use **[software][4]** on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on the source of the content (camera or central DVR unit) you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 3: The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) **[Samsung LU28D590DS][5]**. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: @Aditya Somani found one with four inputs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, a DVI cable can be converted to HDMI though a cheap adapter. Likewise a Displayport adapters exist however are slightly more dependent on the source of the signal or [require an active signal processer][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://saltlabs.net/cadent&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://tommynation.com/displayport-dvi-adapters-explained/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="398" RevisionGUID="2d25e5f1-c120-4dbb-bcc4-f3299809cb9e" CreationDate="2015-09-22T19:02:35.440" UserId="57" Text="I have two [i7-479K (3.6GHz) Intel processors][1]. One is in a machine I use only for gaming and the other is in my development machine. Using the [link][2] that ArtOfCode [provided][3], this processor currently (September 2015) sits in 6th for Single Thread Performance (behind the 4GHz version of the same processor and some Xeon chips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg lists the price as $310.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This processor has had no problems in new games (Arkham Knight...I was one of the lucky ones that had no issues), older games (Skyrim/Team Fortress 2) or family friendly games (any Lego game). On my development machine it performs like a champ as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend this one (or the 4GHz one for $40 more). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116987&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/391/which-modern-cpu-for-best-single-threaded-performance#comment803_391" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="399" RevisionGUID="faf4b568-2cb3-453b-81c0-e5a20739bd58" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:23:20.363" UserId="54" Text="1. The main problem with pocket-size projectors is that they mostly rely on wireless connection rather than typical interfaces. What is more, low resolution can make subtitles unreadable.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If we are talking about mini projectors, I can suggest **[ZeleSouris UC40.][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - suit for home video playing&#xD;&#xA; - relatively small&#xD;&#xA; - affordable price (~£60&#xD;&#xA;   on Amazon + free shipping)&#xD;&#xA; - multi-function input (HDMI support)&#xD;&#xA; - keystone correction&#xD;&#xA; - many available reviews - [check this one][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - text display may be tiring for the eyes after a long time&#xD;&#xA; - fan is quite noisy&#xD;&#xA; - short power cable&#xD;&#xA; - quality of the user manual&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [review][3] may be especially helpful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Maybe just me, but this was a serious faff to get set up. Firstly, you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; have to know how you are going to use this kit. I wanted to use my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I thought USB to USB but no, that does not work. HDMI cable is the way&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to go. Then once I got my hands on a cable, the picture was horrible!&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Then I faffed about some more and found it is the picture ratio that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; has to be just right. After all this, I get a decent picture. Better&#xD;&#xA;&gt; user manual would be a good idea. I will probably do a youtube video&#xD;&#xA;&gt; review/tutorial just to remind myself how to set this thing up.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; I put a video onto a thumb stick and it played lovely. Hooked up an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; external hard drive that played well too. I also used it to display my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ubuntu desktop. Text display is ok, but I would not like to have to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; read alot with it. I have my curtains pulled slightly on a bright day&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and it is plenty bright. One slight niggle is the power cable is very&#xD;&#xA;&gt; short so you do need an extension lead. The projector does make fan&#xD;&#xA;&gt; noise but I tend to mentally block it out once I'm watching a movie. I&#xD;&#xA;&gt; would say it is as loud as or slightly louder than my PC. The lense&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cover it came with does not stay on, in fact it is not the right cover&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for this projector. No problem for me as I'm not travelling with it.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [...]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; So to finish, if you have the money go for a high end model. But for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; what I paid for this I am very happy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/ZeleSouris%C2%AE-Multi-media-Projector-Entertainment-Resolution/dp/B00QMDJEUG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442951211&amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ZeleSouris%C2%AE%20800%20Lumens%20Multi-media%20TFT%20LCD%20Mini%20Projector%20Portable%20LED%20Pocket%20Projector%20with%20HDMI%20%2F%20USB%20%2F%20SD%20%2F%20AV%20Interface%20for%20For%20Game%20Consoles%20%2C%20TV%20%2C%20DVD%20%2C%20PC%20Laptop%20%2C%20Media%20Player%20%2C%20Home%20Cinema%20%2C%20Entertainment%2C%20Maximum%20Resolution%3A%2019201080&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqdtmqzhaiI&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R1FGZM400NE4HJ/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dtzYR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/RkR0N.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="399" RevisionGUID="d8d16fbb-445f-4f14-8aad-28a6256e54ee" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:37:55.590" UserId="54" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="1. The main problem with pocket-size projectors is that they mostly rely on wireless connection rather than typical interfaces. What is more, low resolution can make subtitles unreadable.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If we are talking about mini projectors, I can suggest **[ZeleSouris UC40.][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - suit for home video playing&#xD;&#xA; - relatively small (20.1 x 15.3 x 6.7 cm; 998 g)&#xD;&#xA; - affordable price (~£60&#xD;&#xA;   on Amazon + free shipping)&#xD;&#xA; - multi-function input (HDMI support)&#xD;&#xA; - keystone correction&#xD;&#xA; - many available reviews - [check this one][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - text display may be tiring for the eyes after a long time&#xD;&#xA; - fan is quite noisy&#xD;&#xA; - short power cable&#xD;&#xA; - quality of the user manual&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [review][3] may be especially helpful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Maybe just me, but this was a serious faff to get set up. Firstly, you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; have to know how you are going to use this kit. I wanted to use my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I thought USB to USB but no, that does not work. HDMI cable is the way&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to go. Then once I got my hands on a cable, the picture was horrible!&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Then I faffed about some more and found it is the picture ratio that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; has to be just right. After all this, I get a decent picture. Better&#xD;&#xA;&gt; user manual would be a good idea. I will probably do a youtube video&#xD;&#xA;&gt; review/tutorial just to remind myself how to set this thing up.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; I put a video onto a thumb stick and it played lovely. Hooked up an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; external hard drive that played well too. I also used it to display my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ubuntu desktop. Text display is ok, but I would not like to have to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; read alot with it. I have my curtains pulled slightly on a bright day&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and it is plenty bright. One slight niggle is the power cable is very&#xD;&#xA;&gt; short so you do need an extension lead. The projector does make fan&#xD;&#xA;&gt; noise but I tend to mentally block it out once I'm watching a movie. I&#xD;&#xA;&gt; would say it is as loud as or slightly louder than my PC. The lense&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cover it came with does not stay on, in fact it is not the right cover&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for this projector. No problem for me as I'm not travelling with it.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [...]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; So to finish, if you have the money go for a high end model. But for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; what I paid for this I am very happy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/ZeleSouris%C2%AE-Multi-media-Projector-Entertainment-Resolution/dp/B00QMDJEUG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442951211&amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ZeleSouris%C2%AE%20800%20Lumens%20Multi-media%20TFT%20LCD%20Mini%20Projector%20Portable%20LED%20Pocket%20Projector%20with%20HDMI%20%2F%20USB%20%2F%20SD%20%2F%20AV%20Interface%20for%20For%20Game%20Consoles%20%2C%20TV%20%2C%20DVD%20%2C%20PC%20Laptop%20%2C%20Media%20Player%20%2C%20Home%20Cinema%20%2C%20Entertainment%2C%20Maximum%20Resolution%3A%2019201080&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqdtmqzhaiI&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R1FGZM400NE4HJ/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dtzYR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/RkR0N.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="d8f678c0-1027-421d-b16b-9e00fa7cd0be" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:55:20.660" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch the videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've less requirements than in [here][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- it should be fairly small - mini (or pocket) size&#xD;&#xA;- standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available across EU/UK/US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1349" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="d8f678c0-1027-421d-b16b-9e00fa7cd0be" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:55:20.660" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 57, 15 edit id of 103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1350" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="388" RevisionGUID="b5568e87-62c7-4189-8073-1eb02504550d" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:01:54.763" UserId="155" Comment="changed a tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="398" RevisionGUID="82625d5a-e0f3-41d4-8098-25356a756a2d" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:08:23.253" UserId="57" Comment="edited body" Text="I have two [i7-4790 (3.6GHz) Intel processors][1]. One is in a machine I use only for gaming and the other is in my development machine. Using the [link][2] that ArtOfCode [provided][3], this processor currently (September 2015) sits in 6th for Single Thread Performance (behind the 4GHz version of the same processor and some Xeon chips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg lists the price as $310.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This processor has had no problems in new games (Arkham Knight...I was one of the lucky ones that had no issues), older games (Skyrim/Team Fortress 2) or family friendly games (any Lego game). On my development machine it performs like a champ as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend this one (or the 4GHz one for $40 more). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116987&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/391/which-modern-cpu-for-best-single-threaded-performance#comment803_391" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="2c1d511e-cbd7-4cde-b6e8-9679b2b9ac2b" CreationDate="2015-09-22T23:48:20.623" UserId="60" Text="I currently have 3 [Asus VH236H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059) monitors. They are spread across my desk and can be hard to work with. I am looking for a stand or mount to bring my monitors closer together. My monitors have the VESA wall mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must support my three 23 inch, 10 pound monitors&#xD;&#xA;- Supports independent rotation, tilt, and pivot adjustments&#xD;&#xA;- Height adjustable&#xD;&#xA;- Stable&#xD;&#xA;- NOT wall mounted. This should use the desk for support&#xD;&#xA;- Less than $250 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not care if the mount has to screw into my desk for support. I just don't want to damage the walls.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1359" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="2c1d511e-cbd7-4cde-b6e8-9679b2b9ac2b" CreationDate="2015-09-22T23:48:20.623" UserId="60" Text="Monitor stand that supports 3 monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1360" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="2c1d511e-cbd7-4cde-b6e8-9679b2b9ac2b" CreationDate="2015-09-22T23:48:20.623" UserId="60" Text="&lt;monitor-mount&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="403" RevisionGUID="ea0a55de-374a-4b88-96fb-73fffdc46ad2" CreationDate="2015-09-23T00:16:27.570" UserId="279" Text="I would recommend something in the GTX 900 series, or the R9 200 or 300 series. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want the most power possible, the R9 390 and the GTX 970 are both incredibly powerful cards, and just about equal in terms of performance. The only downside is they are *just* above your price range. (a quick search on google shopping shows most of them to be around 300-350) If you can find a good deal on one of these, that is probably your best option. It seems like the 390 is just slightly more powerful, but the 970 is more power-efficient. (I've also heard that the 970 has better overclocking, but I'm not positive on that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're willing to sacrifice a little bit of performance to stay in your budget, your best option is probably the R9 290. (Which just so happens to be my current GPU) It is almost comparable to the GTX 970, but significantly cheaper. (You could probably get one for $250)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="25b492f8-076c-4123-a126-9c82a9efe474" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:09:58.983" UserId="241" Text="I'm looking for a USB GPS receiver for turning a Raspberry Pi into a GPS navigation system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Thumb-drive-like form factor&#xD;&#xA;* Compatibility with [GPSD][1]&#xD;&#xA;* Low power (*shouldn't* be a problem with any receiver, but the Pi is somewhat touchy about USB devices drawing too much power).&#xD;&#xA;* Price: less than $50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for satellite networks other than the US GPS system.&#xD;&#xA;* Support for various accuracy-augmentation systems.&#xD;&#xA;* Magnetic compass.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.catb.org/gpsd/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="25b492f8-076c-4123-a126-9c82a9efe474" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:09:58.983" UserId="241" Text="USB GPS receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="25b492f8-076c-4123-a126-9c82a9efe474" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:09:58.983" UserId="241" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1365" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="13d2b31d-ead1-4aa8-a3e2-7e7df8acc02d" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:18:24.497" UserId="60" Comment="Added info about the desk. Added [multiple-monitors] tag" Text="I currently have 3 [Asus VH236H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059) monitors. They are spread across my desk and can be hard to work with. I am looking for a stand or mount to bring my monitors closer together. My monitors have the VESA wall mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must support my three 23 inch, 10 pound monitors&#xD;&#xA;- Supports independent rotation, tilt, and pivot adjustments&#xD;&#xA;- Height adjustable&#xD;&#xA;- Stable&#xD;&#xA;- NOT wall mounted. This should use the desk for support&#xD;&#xA;- Less than $250 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My desk is not up against the wall and is about 1 1/8 inch thick. It is made of solid wood, so screwing into it (preferably from the bottom) is not a problem. All that I ask is that I do not have to damage the walls." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1366" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="13d2b31d-ead1-4aa8-a3e2-7e7df8acc02d" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:18:24.497" UserId="60" Comment="Added info about the desk. Added [multiple-monitors] tag" Text="&lt;monitor-mount&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="f7eac8de-e4d9-4f78-8cf1-58b3a7d15ba9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:26:17.420" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar in a couple spots" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have less requirements than [this question][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- it should be fairly small - mini (or pocket) size&#xD;&#xA;- have a standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available across the EU/UK/US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1368" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="f7eac8de-e4d9-4f78-8cf1-58b3a7d15ba9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:26:17.420" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar in a couple spots" Text="Mini projector for mirroring the screen or watching movies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1369" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="f7eac8de-e4d9-4f78-8cf1-58b3a7d15ba9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:26:17.420" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 104" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1370" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="a59d8aef-0e07-49c1-a5d6-a1f05a2706a8" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:26:17.420" UserId="155" Comment="improve grammar in a couple spots" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have less requirements than [this question][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- should be fairly small &amp;mdash; mini- or pocket-size&#xD;&#xA;- have a standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available in EU/UK/US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1371" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="0c1833b8-ffde-4b60-8e96-b2b4ef734441" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:28:36.873" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1372" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="5583baf3-c652-4c26-a545-7cbdea68f19e" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:38:11.357" UserId="155" Comment="corrected a tag" Text="Earphone recommendation with good cost-to-benefit ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1373" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="5583baf3-c652-4c26-a545-7cbdea68f19e" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:38:11.357" UserId="155" Comment="corrected a tag" Text="&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;comfortability&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1374" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="405" RevisionGUID="0b2bc19c-db56-4517-8591-42ea6cf176f9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:41:50.777" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1375" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="406" RevisionGUID="5852a571-4c41-4ab8-80b8-926121157617" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:41:50.777" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="407" RevisionGUID="1612b8c4-44ee-4a9d-92bc-436677e08aac" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:52:21.070" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="408" RevisionGUID="4fa1621d-3a2e-4705-b00e-3cbec99fc71b" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:52:21.070" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1378" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="409" RevisionGUID="c0f3664b-15e0-4ee2-af00-9ac451bd6d1f" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:56:18.283" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="410" RevisionGUID="1582b491-20ca-4c2a-874d-584e8246dced" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:56:18.283" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1380" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="411" RevisionGUID="c5637c3d-d34e-4f42-a434-237c0e6b1c41" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:57:42.167" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1381" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="412" RevisionGUID="f727b8a1-f194-41a9-a19a-d432c6f63acd" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:57:42.167" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="413" RevisionGUID="cdf544f5-2b0c-4804-b9ec-71fadbc74723" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:04:12.093" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="414" RevisionGUID="d583ff4c-a843-44e6-bd86-21551a23475f" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:04:12.093" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="415" RevisionGUID="58605831-bf57-4160-a97f-5bffa43bbed8" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:19:22.987" UserId="1" Text="I'm going against the tide here: **OS X**. It can be easier to use for development stuff (especially web, can't vouch for .NET development and other such Microsoft technologies.), and it doesn't cost as much. Stop looking at me funny, there's data to come...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, here's why I like OS X more:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has a native UNIX terminal which, in my experience, very closely emulates a standard Linux command line in terms of built in commands. You also have [Homebrew](http://brew.sh/), which allows you to easily install things that aren't bundled with OS X - think `wget`, `htop`, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - Because it's UNIX-based, lots of things just work where you would have to fiddle with them in Windows. Also, OS X plays much nicer with Git-type tools, and really any collaboration. I can't count how many times I've had to revert a change from a Windows user that adds strange linebreaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  These are all things that can be overcome with some tinkering... but it's still tinkering when you could be racking up billable hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the price argument: I would argue that **OS X does not cost that much more than Windows**. I know this is radical, but hear me out. Let's look at resale prices on Windows machines from 2010 - see [this eBay search](http://www.ebay.com/sch/PC-Laptops-Netbooks-/177/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_nkw=2010&amp;_sop=13). That's for Windows laptops from 2010, five years ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm seeing ~$150-200 max unless you have an AlienWare laptop. [AlienWare machines are really expensive](https://www.google.com/search?q=alienware&amp;rct=j#q=alienware&amp;tbm=shop) and you probably won't be buying one for development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's look at [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). Outside of the for-parts machines (some of which still are selling for ***$300***), I'm seeing $500 to $700. Even some for-parts MacBooks are selling for more than Windows laptops from the same year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going through the first couple laptops on the Windows list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E6410 14.1&quot; i7/ 500GB/4GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6410-14-1-i7-500GB-4GB-Win7-Pro-no-Webcam-/181878676872?hash=item2a58d05d88) - sold for **$147.50**, original price from [this period Engadget article](http://www.engadget.com/2010/04/02/dell-latitude-e6410-e6510-finally-make-it-to-us/) was **$1750**, for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude e6400 Core 2 Duo 2.24Ghz, RAM 4GB, HDD 250GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-e6400-Core-2-Duo-2-24Ghz-RAM-4GB-HDD-250GB-Laptop-Office-2010-/111779024589?hash=item1a068c8ecd) was from 2008, but sold for **$89.99** with an [original price of **$1100**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-latitude-e6400/) for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E4310 Intel Core i5 2.67GHz 2GB 160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E4310-Intel-Core-i5-2-67GHz-2GB-160GB-Windows-7-Pro-32bit-with-DVD-/141776000577?hash=item2102821641) sold for **$130** (only one bid), [original price ~£1,400.00](http://www.cnet.com/uk/products/dell-latitude-e4310/), which was [around **$2000** in 2010 USD](http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%C2%A31%2C400.00+in+USD+in+2010)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Lenovo IdeaPad Y560P 15.6&quot; Core i7/8GB Ram](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y560P-15-6-Core-i7-8GB-Ram-/161824488232?hash=item25ad7dbb28) sold for **$110** (18 bids), [original price **$2100**](http://www.cnet.com/au/products/lenovo-ideapad-y560/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [HP Mini 2140 10.1&quot; Notebook Intel Atom 1.6ghz, 1GB Ram,160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Mini-2140-10-1-Notebook-Intel-Atom-1-6ghz-1GB-Ram-160GB-Win-7-Pro-Wifi-Cam-/262056227330?hash=item3d03c4b202) (from 2009) sold for **$69.99**, [original price **$630**](http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-2140-mini-note-series/). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - (Skipping for-parts MacBook Air that somehow got in that search)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Studio 1745 Laptop With JBL Premium Sound, 17.3&quot; Screen](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Studio-1745-Laptop-With-JBL-Premium-Sound-17-3-Screen-Free-Shipping-/191696577181?hash=item2ca201a29d), sold for **$175**, [original price **$779**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-studio-s1745-3691mbu/) (looks like it's from late 2009)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could keep going, and you should to make an informed purchase decision, but doing this all manually is a lot of work. From those 6 most recently sold, there's an average drop of **$1272** over the five years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we look at the [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). The first 6:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The first one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-Core-2-Duo-2-4GHz-4GB-250GB-13-MC374LL-A-/171944283569?hash=item2808ad8db1) sold for a &quot;best offer price&quot;, and I have no idea what that means. Skipping...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [MacBook Pro 13&quot; CUSTOM ORDER Laptop 2.66GHz-16GB RAM-1TB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEARLY-PERFECT-Apple-MacBook-Pro-13-CUSTOM-ORDER-Laptop-2-66GHz-16GB-RAM-1TB-HD-/231689863296?hash=item35f1cac080) sold for **$705.00**, [originally base model priced $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3), I'm going to add $500 to that since it looks like he's upgraded the RAM and such. So **$1699** originally. He probably has less money into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [15&quot; MacBook Pro](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macbook-pro-15-used-/271993832111?hash=item3f541882af), sold for $400, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [2010 Apple MacBook Pro 15.4&quot; Core i5, MC372LL/A Laptop, 12GB RAM, 750 HDD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-4-Core-i5-MC372LL-A-Laptop-12GB-RAM-750-HDD-/271991326641?hash=item3f53f247b1), sold for $512, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). I'm going to give him another $400 for the RAM and HDD upgrades he made to the machine, so **$2199**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro 15&quot; 2.53GHz i5, 4GB, 500GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-2-53GHz-i5-4GB-500GB-Office11-Adobe-CS6-Final-Cut-Pro-/171941147161?hash=item28087db219), sold for $790. Looks like a [base model version of this, $1999](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.53-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro A1278 13.3&quot; Laptop - MC374LL/A](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1278-13-3-Laptop-MC374LL-A-April-2010-/181879801478?hash=item2a58e18686), sold for $700. Looks like it's [a base model of this, $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple Macbook Pro 13&quot;, 1TB Storage, 4GB RAM, 2.40GHz Intel Core 2 Duo](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Pro-13-1TB-Storage-4GB-RAM-2-40GHz-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Yosemite-/321873529056?hash=item4af12848e0), sold for $500. Looks like [one of these ($1199)](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3) with a giant hard drive. I'll give him $300 for that hard drive, so **$1499** originally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding up those six, I get **$1064** average loss over those five years. A couple notes on the data gathering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'd give a larger sample size if I thought it wouldn't make me go insane. If you want to do some research and add to the list, please do. I'll accept the edit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Still, this is a phenomenon I've been observing for years. MacBooks&#xD;&#xA;   simply hold their value better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I tried to be fairly generous with adding investments to the purchase price for people who upgraded their MacBooks. I didn't do that with Windows machines (didn't even take it into account, I always assumed the base model), and OS X still edged out Windows by a couple hundred dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Some of the Windows machines *were* from 2008/2009. I realize that, but I don't think it messed with the data that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resale prices on today's Windows machines may be higher in the future... but I don't think so. That's a decision you have to make.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the decision you have to make isn't about cost, but **how much you want to invest in a machine**. There *is* capital tied up in your laptop, and it's often more with OS X machines. That's a valid point against buying MacBooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing: I was assuming you're buying your machine new. Don't do that. I have bought my MacBooks used off Craigslist - a 2009 13&quot; Pro for $500 a few years back, and my current 2012 13&quot; for $800 a few years ago. [I could still get at least $500 out of it](http://www.ebay.com/sch/Computers-Tablets-Networking-/58058/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_nkw=macbook%20pro&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;rt=nc&amp;Release%2520Year=2012&amp;_udlo&amp;_udhi&amp;Product%2520Family=MacBook%2520Pro&amp;Screen%2520Size=13in%252E). Standard disclaimers apply, Craigslist is creepy. Bring a friend and meet in public.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If Craigslist is too creepy for you (don't blame you), [buy a refurbished machine directly from Apple](http://www.apple.com/shop/browse/home/specialdeals/mac/macbook_pro). They're better than a new machine and have 10-25% discounts. I've bought a MacBook Air, iPad, and an iPod Touch from there, and haven't had an issue with any of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="415" RevisionGUID="18f2f5c4-4660-440b-acb8-e09a37fa4a1a" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:27:45.780" UserId="1" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I'm going against the tide here: **OS X**. It can be easier to use for development stuff (especially web, can't vouch for .NET development and other such Microsoft technologies.), and it doesn't cost as much. Stop looking at me funny, there's data to come...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, here's why I like OS X more:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has a native UNIX terminal which, in my experience, in most cases works like a standard Linux command line in terms of built in commands (by which I mean most things I find on the Internet can be copy-pasted into my terminal and work fine with minimal modification).&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;   You also have [Homebrew](http://brew.sh/), which allows you to easily&#xD;&#xA;   install things that aren't bundled with OS X - think `wget`, `htop`,&#xD;&#xA;   etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Because it's UNIX-based, lots of things just work where you would have to fiddle with them in Windows. Also, OS X plays much nicer with Git-type tools, and really any collaboration. I can't count how many times I've had to revert a change from a Windows user that adds strange linebreaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  These are all things that can be overcome with some tinkering... but it's still tinkering when you could be racking up billable hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I personally like it better. Things make more sense, but that could be because I haven't used Windows as much as most people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the price argument: I would argue that **OS X does not cost that much more than Windows**. I know this is radical, but hear me out. Let's look at resale prices on Windows machines from 2010 - see [this eBay search](http://www.ebay.com/sch/PC-Laptops-Netbooks-/177/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_nkw=2010&amp;_sop=13). That's for Windows laptops from 2010, five years ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm seeing ~$150-200 max unless you have an AlienWare laptop. [AlienWare machines are really expensive](https://www.google.com/search?q=alienware&amp;rct=j#q=alienware&amp;tbm=shop) and you probably won't be buying one for development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's look at [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). Outside of the for-parts machines (some of which still are selling for ***$300***), I'm seeing $500 to $700. Even some for-parts MacBooks are selling for more than Windows laptops from the same year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going through the first couple laptops on the Windows list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E6410 14.1&quot; i7/ 500GB/4GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6410-14-1-i7-500GB-4GB-Win7-Pro-no-Webcam-/181878676872?hash=item2a58d05d88) - sold for **$147.50**, original price from [this period Engadget article](http://www.engadget.com/2010/04/02/dell-latitude-e6410-e6510-finally-make-it-to-us/) was **$1750**, for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude e6400 Core 2 Duo 2.24Ghz, RAM 4GB, HDD 250GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-e6400-Core-2-Duo-2-24Ghz-RAM-4GB-HDD-250GB-Laptop-Office-2010-/111779024589?hash=item1a068c8ecd) was from 2008, but sold for **$89.99** with an [original price of **$1100**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-latitude-e6400/) for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E4310 Intel Core i5 2.67GHz 2GB 160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E4310-Intel-Core-i5-2-67GHz-2GB-160GB-Windows-7-Pro-32bit-with-DVD-/141776000577?hash=item2102821641) sold for **$130** (only one bid), [original price ~£1,400.00](http://www.cnet.com/uk/products/dell-latitude-e4310/), which was [around **$2000** in 2010 USD](http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%C2%A31%2C400.00+in+USD+in+2010)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Lenovo IdeaPad Y560P 15.6&quot; Core i7/8GB Ram](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y560P-15-6-Core-i7-8GB-Ram-/161824488232?hash=item25ad7dbb28) sold for **$110** (18 bids), [original price **$2100**](http://www.cnet.com/au/products/lenovo-ideapad-y560/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [HP Mini 2140 10.1&quot; Notebook Intel Atom 1.6ghz, 1GB Ram,160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Mini-2140-10-1-Notebook-Intel-Atom-1-6ghz-1GB-Ram-160GB-Win-7-Pro-Wifi-Cam-/262056227330?hash=item3d03c4b202) (from 2009) sold for **$69.99**, [original price **$630**](http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-2140-mini-note-series/). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - (Skipping for-parts MacBook Air that somehow got in that search)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Studio 1745 Laptop With JBL Premium Sound, 17.3&quot; Screen](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Studio-1745-Laptop-With-JBL-Premium-Sound-17-3-Screen-Free-Shipping-/191696577181?hash=item2ca201a29d), sold for **$175**, [original price **$779**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-studio-s1745-3691mbu/) (looks like it's from late 2009)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could keep going, and you should to make an informed purchase decision, but doing this all manually is a lot of work. From those 6 most recently sold, there's an average drop of **$1272** over the five years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we look at the [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). The first 6:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The first one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-Core-2-Duo-2-4GHz-4GB-250GB-13-MC374LL-A-/171944283569?hash=item2808ad8db1) sold for a &quot;best offer price&quot;, and I have no idea what that means. Skipping...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [MacBook Pro 13&quot; CUSTOM ORDER Laptop 2.66GHz-16GB RAM-1TB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEARLY-PERFECT-Apple-MacBook-Pro-13-CUSTOM-ORDER-Laptop-2-66GHz-16GB-RAM-1TB-HD-/231689863296?hash=item35f1cac080) sold for **$705.00**, [originally base model priced $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3), I'm going to add $500 to that since it looks like he's upgraded the RAM and such. So **$1699** originally. He probably has less money into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [15&quot; MacBook Pro](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macbook-pro-15-used-/271993832111?hash=item3f541882af), sold for $400, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [2010 Apple MacBook Pro 15.4&quot; Core i5, MC372LL/A Laptop, 12GB RAM, 750 HDD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-4-Core-i5-MC372LL-A-Laptop-12GB-RAM-750-HDD-/271991326641?hash=item3f53f247b1), sold for $512, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). I'm going to give him another $400 for the RAM and HDD upgrades he made to the machine, so **$2199**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro 15&quot; 2.53GHz i5, 4GB, 500GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-2-53GHz-i5-4GB-500GB-Office11-Adobe-CS6-Final-Cut-Pro-/171941147161?hash=item28087db219), sold for $790. Looks like a [base model version of this, $1999](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.53-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro A1278 13.3&quot; Laptop - MC374LL/A](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1278-13-3-Laptop-MC374LL-A-April-2010-/181879801478?hash=item2a58e18686), sold for $700. Looks like it's [a base model of this, $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple Macbook Pro 13&quot;, 1TB Storage, 4GB RAM, 2.40GHz Intel Core 2 Duo](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Pro-13-1TB-Storage-4GB-RAM-2-40GHz-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Yosemite-/321873529056?hash=item4af12848e0), sold for $500. Looks like [one of these ($1199)](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3) with a giant hard drive. I'll give him $300 for that hard drive, so **$1499** originally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding up those six, I get **$1064** average loss over those five years. A couple notes on the data gathering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'd give a larger sample size if I thought it wouldn't make me go insane. If you want to do some research and add to the list, please do. I'll accept the edit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Still, this is a phenomenon I've been observing for years. MacBooks&#xD;&#xA;   simply hold their value better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I tried to be fairly generous with adding investments to the purchase price for people who upgraded their MacBooks. I didn't do that with Windows machines (didn't even take it into account, I always assumed the base model), and OS X still edged out Windows by a couple hundred dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Some of the Windows machines *were* from 2008/2009. I realize that, but I don't think it messed with the data that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resale prices on today's Windows machines may be higher in the future... but I don't think so. That's a decision you have to make.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the decision you have to make isn't about cost, but **how much you want to invest in a machine**. There *is* capital tied up in your laptop, and it's often more with OS X machines. That's a valid point against buying MacBooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing: I was assuming you're buying your machine new. Don't do that. I have bought my MacBooks used off Craigslist - a 2009 13&quot; Pro for $500 a few years back, and my current 2012 13&quot; for $800 a few years ago. [I could still get at least $500 out of it](http://www.ebay.com/sch/Computers-Tablets-Networking-/58058/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_nkw=macbook%20pro&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;rt=nc&amp;Release%2520Year=2012&amp;_udlo&amp;_udhi&amp;Product%2520Family=MacBook%2520Pro&amp;Screen%2520Size=13in%252E). Standard disclaimers apply, Craigslist is creepy. Bring a friend and meet in public.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If Craigslist is too creepy for you (don't blame you), [buy a refurbished machine directly from Apple](http://www.apple.com/shop/browse/home/specialdeals/mac/macbook_pro). They're better than a new machine and have 10-25% discounts. I've bought a MacBook Air, iPad, and an iPod Touch from there, and haven't had an issue with any of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1388" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="bcb2e769-ad95-41dc-ab5c-63fbfa8c6ece" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:47:55.990" UserId="1" Comment="edited title" Text="GPS receiver compatible with Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="267" RevisionGUID="e93b8246-ea0a-4a13-ba4f-3eadb304988f" CreationDate="2015-09-23T03:49:08.850" UserId="1" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am enrolled in a Front End Developer course that starts in January. I need a laptop for the class. I am trying to decide between a Windows machine or a MacBook Pro. The class info says that either are acceptable. Will either environment offer me an advantage when doing front-end development or are they both identical? Basically, will both platforms offer equal access to the programming tools I will use or will one platform offer more compatibility?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The course will use HTML5, CSS, Javascript, AJAX, PHP, SASS, jQuery, Angular, Git, and Photoshop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="416" RevisionGUID="d03426bf-28e5-44cc-8736-cbae2c2e3dc9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T04:28:02.627" UserId="116" Text="I'm looking for a keyboard under $100USD for gaming, programming, and video editing. For these, programmable keys are needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extra programmable keys&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keys with adjustable brightness(and able to easily turn lights off)&#xD;&#xA; - Media control buttons (Play/pause/stop/skip)&#xD;&#xA; - Full sized keyboard (With numpad)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Would like, but not required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I've seen some keyboards with plugs for headphones/USB; having these would be good&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Having multiple light colors to choose from (If not changeable, a green color would match my PC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Volume switches for PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't like really small keyboards, so if its bulky, I consider that a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1391" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="416" RevisionGUID="d03426bf-28e5-44cc-8736-cbae2c2e3dc9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T04:28:02.627" UserId="116" Text="Cheap keyboard with programmable keys and backlit keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1392" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="416" RevisionGUID="d03426bf-28e5-44cc-8736-cbae2c2e3dc9" CreationDate="2015-09-23T04:28:02.627" UserId="116" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1393" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="404" RevisionGUID="9ad07ba4-1635-4c41-b98a-623f317d0e49" CreationDate="2015-09-23T05:12:21.770" UserId="241" Comment="The &quot;USB&quot; bit is important -- there are receivers that work through the Pi's other interfaces that meet the other requirements" Text="USB GPS receiver compatible with Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="4fb4aba1-acfa-473a-858a-dbc8d3280407" CreationDate="2015-09-23T07:40:41.057" UserId="313" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="Are there any nice and affordable, wearable fitness-tracking devices, which can track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Edited after [Mark][1]'s [comment][2] below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:** Would be nice if it's within $250&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weight:** As it's a wearable, the lighter the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery Life:** A decent battery life is okay, as I would be wearing it in my home most of the time, so I can charge it whenever it gets down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Software Compatibility:** If it comes with an app which can show my progress, etc. on my android phone, there's nothing like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I'd be using it during exercise, something which is durable would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/241/mark&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/387/what-are-some-nice-fitness-event-activity-tracking-devices#comment-764" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1395" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="417" RevisionGUID="5fa1d51d-65d0-4761-b041-73980f1699be" CreationDate="2015-09-23T10:41:28.017" UserId="122" Text="Based on personal experience (3 out of 4 failed, purchased several months apart) I recommend to stay away from the hybrid drives, as I will be in the future.  A limited sample I know, I could have just been unlucky, but at this point I am cutting my losses with that tech.  I think with the cost of SSDs dropping, they will have a limited lifespan as a viable product in any case.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have not had an SSD fail (out of &gt;10 purchased personally since 2009 in sizes from 75GB up to 512GB so far), though I have had one end up in a less performant state thanks to a faulty SATA cable.  I have owned dozens of HDDs and had a handful fail, but nothing approaching the failure rate I have seen in hybrids so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of writing this, SSDs are coming in the $0.30 to $0.40 per GB range for sizes up to 500GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The interesting thing here is that (as an example, plucked from Newegg today) the cost for a 250GB SSD from Samsung is currently $0.40/GB which drops to $0.35/GB for the 500GB model.  At 1TB, that same drive comes in at $0.37/GB and it is on sale.  This is the kind of profile we are used to seeing, however.  Essentially, for the top end of any tech segment (4TB+ HDD, 1TB+ SSD at the moment) you will always pay a premium - same is true for CPU, memory, graphics, motherboards, displays etc.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is generally how I will do my SSD shopping - pick a couple of manufacturers with good reputation (Intel, Samsung), then decide on your required level of SSD (budget, consumer, enterprise - in Samsung terms EVO, PRO, Enterprise).  Once you have that, look at the cost per GB for each size offered and look for the sweet spot - that will usually be one or two rungs below the top in terms of size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually this method will work for most things - CPU (use to be cost per Ghz but more murky now), RAM (cost per GB too), Graphics cards (depends, but cost per FPS in a highend game I play is how I do it), HDDs (cost per GB).  There is always a sweet spot on the curve, and it will usually be a little below the bleeding edge, and frequently have sales on (so watch for them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see from follow up comments that you are looking at HDDs because of price, so let's see where the sweetspot lines up for those.  I will pick a single brand that I have good experience with (Seagate), go for 7200 rpm drives, and not pay too much attention to other factors (warranty, cache etc.) since this is a rough estimation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $0.092 per GB - 500GB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.049 per GB - 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.0375 per GB - 2TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.03 per GB - 3TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.038 per GB - 5TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The particular model I was looking at for convenience did not have 4TB/6TB sizes listed, but you get the idea - it looks like 3TB or 4TB is your likely sweet spot from a cost per GB perspective (as an aside: about one tenth of the SSD prices above), so I would look for well reviewed, reliable drives in that range and buy with confidence (for now).  Just for reference, the 8TB 7200 RPM drives are rare and are coming in at ~$0.7 per GB as of writing this answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="418" RevisionGUID="6938d144-f41f-4b6d-87bd-12020b363e6e" CreationDate="2015-09-23T12:59:43.200" UserId="122" Text="I tend to splurge a bit on NAS type components (Drobo, Icy Box) so I can't make a personal recommendation when it comes to the cheaper end of the scale, but I can make a general recommendation when it comes to buying the drives you are going to populate your chosen NAS with: don't buy them from the same place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do buy the same model, from the same manufacturer, for RAID purposes. But always try to source each drive from a different place (one from Amazon, one from Newegg for example) even if you have to pay a small premium to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why?** Well, when manufacturing defects occur they tend to occur in batches (get detected, potentially fixed in a later batch).  If you get all your drives from the same batch (which is more likely when you order 2 from one place) you may end up with the same flaw in both drives.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That then leads to the &quot;when will my drive fail?&quot; question - if you get different batches you will get slightly different [MTBF][1] rates so that unless you are massively unlucky you won't have 2 drives fail at the same time (hopefully giving you time to replace and repair your RAID array in the event of a drive failure).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also achieve this by staggering your drive purchases by a few weeks (though be careful of warranty coverage differences), but usually it is relatively easy to find two sellers with similar pricing for a particular model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_time_between_failures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="2a849053-e0c7-4acb-bfae-b83bb47b7ddb" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:04:19.963" UserId="367" Text="For a couple years I had a Samsung Galaxy Player.  It was classified as an MP3 player for insurance purposes, as it didn't have telephone functionality, but it was a fully capable Android device otherwise. Essentially it was a pocket-sized mini-tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I lost it. I'd like to replace it - again without a telephone as I rarely am out of wi-fi range, use my cell phone very little, and don't want to pay data fees.  I've been looking around for a while now, but I have not been able to find any similar devices on the market any more, except for a couple devices aimed at children. The only other Android options I've found are smartphones or larger tablets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My experiences with 2nd hand devices have not been good, so I am avoiding eBay, Craigslist, etc. Thus, I'm asking if anyone knows of something on the market that I'm missing. Are there any pocket-sized Android devices without built in telephones being manufactured (and targeted at adults)? If so, what are they?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="2a849053-e0c7-4acb-bfae-b83bb47b7ddb" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:04:19.963" UserId="367" Text="What Android pocket devices are currently available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="2a849053-e0c7-4acb-bfae-b83bb47b7ddb" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:04:19.963" UserId="367" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1400" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="fab5eee1-03ed-4bc8-80cf-fc19c039dca7" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:12:53.707" UserId="367" Comment="modified title to be clearer" Text="What Android (non-telephone) pocket devices are currently available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="420" RevisionGUID="7051c6ae-306e-4f18-a7a1-f7c6d7ebedfd" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:18:31.910" UserId="122" Text="I have some nice wireless [consumer][1] [routers][2], but will soon be running into their limits in terms of bandwidth/throughput capabilities (assuming my ISP delivers on 1Gb connections). Hence, I am looking to roll my own router again for the first time since I started to use WiFi.  I also have an eye on the future (IPV6) and generally like building my own gear. I have enough parts lying around (CPU, case, RAM etc.) to provide most of the building blocks of a nice beefy router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing I don't have, and have no experience with is the wireless card itself - I have never purchased one separately, only used the ones already in laptops or SFF PCs.  My larger machines have all been wired only.  My short-list of preferred features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux Driver Support (native preferred, not religious about it being open, just stable and performant)&#xD;&#xA;* 802.11ac/n/g support&#xD;&#xA;* PCI Express preferred over USB (half height option a bonus, not required)&#xD;&#xA;* Decent performance (throughput) and range (anecdotal experience is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.netgear.ie/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.linksys.com/us/support-product?pid=01t80000003KUz3AAG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1402" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="420" RevisionGUID="7051c6ae-306e-4f18-a7a1-f7c6d7ebedfd" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:18:31.910" UserId="122" Text="What Wireless Card for a DIY Linux Router/Firewall" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1403" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="420" RevisionGUID="7051c6ae-306e-4f18-a7a1-f7c6d7ebedfd" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:18:31.910" UserId="122" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="cebd9a54-8351-4079-812d-4cc7724f7907" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:58:14.240" UserId="342" Text="First of all - I must say that I am not a hardware or expert , I am just a simple programmer , and I also not sure this is the right place for this question ( but title of site suggest it might be . ) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to read a lot about touch screen technologies - but I am a bit in lost here . So many technologies ( resistive , capacitive , OLED, PCAP, - everywhere I tried to search explain **HOW** they work, but I would not find condition based recommendations )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to know what types of touchscreen technology would be best for an outdoor kiosk, that can be potentially exposed to direct sun, dust , as well as rain ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aim is to build some kind of a self-service &quot;kiosk&quot; , the kind you often see at a metro station, or train station, or even ATM´s , but this particular one would have to be placed in totally exposed outdoor areas .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already built a few prototypes, and totally excluded the IR types ( any dust on the edges would compromise performance ) . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sceen size would be around 17&quot; , and the preferred solution would be one that can be covered with 2-3mm tempered glass ( meaning glass as top layer ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1405" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="cebd9a54-8351-4079-812d-4cc7724f7907" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:58:14.240" UserId="342" Text="Touchsceen technologies for outdoor use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1406" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="cebd9a54-8351-4079-812d-4cc7724f7907" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:58:14.240" UserId="342" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;touch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1407" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="082e9997-3403-496f-a15d-3aee385f6c55" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:04:21.063" UserId="342" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="First of all - I must say that I am not a hardware or expert , I am just a simple programmer , and I also not sure this is the right place for this question ( but title of site suggest it might be . ) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to read a lot about touch screen technologies - but I am a bit in lost here . So many technologies ( resistive , capacitive , OLED, PCAP, - everywhere I tried to search explain **HOW** they work, but I would not find condition based recommendations )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to know what types of touchscreen technology would be best for an outdoor kiosk, that can be potentially exposed to direct sun, dust or small debris , as well as rain ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aim is to build some kind of a self-service &quot;kiosk&quot; , the kind you often see at a metro station, or train station, or even ATM´s , but this particular one would have to be placed in totally exposed outdoor areas .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already built a few prototypes, and totally excluded the IR types ( any dust or debris on the edges would compromise performance ) . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sceen size would be around 17&quot; , and the preferred solution would be one that can be covered with 2-3mm tempered glass ( meaning glass as top layer ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1408" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="8a8d1a0f-2496-4681-af9a-3ad47e207c3b" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:16:11.037" UserId="367" Comment="clarification indicating general purpose device" Text="For a couple years I had a Samsung Galaxy Player.  It was classified as an MP3 player for insurance purposes, as it didn't have telephone functionality, but it was a fully capable Android device otherwise. Essentially it was a pocket-sized mini-tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I lost it. I'd like to replace it - again without a telephone as I rarely am out of wi-fi range, use my cell phone very little, and don't want to pay data fees.  I've been looking around for a while now, but I have not been able to find any similar devices on the market any more, except for a couple devices aimed at children. The only other Android options I've found are smartphones or larger tablets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My experiences with 2nd hand devices have not been good, so I am avoiding eBay, Craigslist, etc. Thus, I'm asking if anyone knows of something on the market that I'm missing. Are there any general purpose pocket-sized Android devices without built in telephones being manufactured (and targeted at adults)? If so, what are they?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1409" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="8a8d1a0f-2496-4681-af9a-3ad47e207c3b" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:16:11.037" UserId="367" Comment="clarification indicating general purpose device" Text="What general purpose Android (non-telephone) pocket devices are currently available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1410" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="36f59ffd-ee04-4254-88cf-5caed15ef3c7" CreationDate="2015-09-23T16:33:39.220" UserId="60" Comment="Removed [headtracking] to be able to rename it to [head-tracking]." Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1411" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="aeb6d112-d040-48ca-90f6-a6ea9166280b" CreationDate="2015-09-23T16:36:07.117" UserId="60" Comment="Removed [powerbank] to raname it to [power-bank]" Text="&lt;external-battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="422" RevisionGUID="3955edbd-4bb9-46cd-b5ce-de1095bfb5bb" CreationDate="2015-09-23T16:55:43.817" UserId="122" Text="I have been using the dual version of the [Allcam monitor bracket][1] for a few years now, and I love it - no problems with 2 x 24&quot; flat screens.  The height is a little tricky to adjust but the mobility is good horizontally and tilt is available without an issue.  It supports 3 screens and beyond (it is modular).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a desk mounted bracket and it supports weights in excess of 13lbs, so it seems to fit your requirements.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The invoice I dug up tells me that in 2011 I ordered the following from Allcam directly:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 x Long Arm for Allcam MDM0X series LCD Monitor Desk Mount Bracket&#xD;&#xA;- 1 x MDM05 Multi Screen Desk Mount Bracket&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That came to a total of just over €100 thanks to high taxes and delivery charges to Ireland, but still not excessive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would need 2 of the long arms, one short and MDM06 instead, but it's pretty modular, so it's really up to you.  Here's [a link][2] to the Amazon (UK) version of the MDM06 with decent pictures and an idea of price - I would have used Amazon when I ordered but it was not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have moved twice since I ordered and had to disassemble and reassemble each time - it's a little tricky if space is tight or you have a tight fit with a wall (but you mention you don't) - but otherwise it is solid, and I have never had any concerns about stability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While searching for a decent shot of the triple set up I spotted that Allcam have a guide up on Youtube showing you how to set up the triple monitor [here][3] so you can get a decent idea of what's involved and how it might look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside: this was one of the best quality of life things I ever did - I highly recommend it if you can manage the fitting and your desk will hold up - it frees up an insane amount of space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.allcam.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=29&amp;osCsid=b18d42ad17d6e778ddf48a8714dea5dd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001H2XEP8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLMAjotw2Og" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="d7ba64b3-5558-423d-b8aa-4533915f92f5" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:06:57.763" UserId="372" Text="I work with `software development` and have some games that I want to play. Like `The Witcher 3`, `Diablo 3: RoS`, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that I need a notebook with 2gb Video and 8gb ram. But I don't know how to choose the best option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live at a hot country, so I need something that don't overheat." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1414" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="d7ba64b3-5558-423d-b8aa-4533915f92f5" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:06:57.763" UserId="372" Text="Notebook for Work and Fun" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1415" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="d7ba64b3-5558-423d-b8aa-4533915f92f5" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:06:57.763" UserId="372" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;gammer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1416" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="417" RevisionGUID="0a5b421c-ae81-4dbd-b4e6-047f3865e908" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:28:17.290" UserId="122" Comment="added 2.5&quot; analysis, explanation of edit" Text="Based on personal experience (3 out of 4 failed, purchased several months apart) I recommend to stay away from the hybrid drives, as I will be in the future.  A limited sample I know, I could have just been unlucky, but at this point I am cutting my losses with that tech.  I think with the cost of SSDs dropping, they will have a limited lifespan as a viable product in any case.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have not had an SSD fail (out of &gt;10 purchased personally since 2009 in sizes from 75GB up to 512GB so far), though I have had one end up in a less performant state thanks to a faulty SATA cable.  I have owned dozens of HDDs and had a handful fail, but nothing approaching the failure rate I have seen in hybrids so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of writing this, SSDs are coming in the $0.30 to $0.40 per GB range for sizes up to 500GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The interesting thing here is that (as an example, plucked from Newegg today) the cost for a 250GB SSD from Samsung is currently $0.40/GB which drops to $0.35/GB for the 500GB model.  At 1TB, that same drive comes in at $0.37/GB and it is on sale.  This is the kind of profile we are used to seeing, however.  Essentially, for the top end of any tech segment (4TB+ HDD, 1TB+ SSD at the moment) you will always pay a premium - same is true for CPU, memory, graphics, motherboards, displays etc.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is generally how I will do my SSD shopping - pick a couple of manufacturers with good reputation (Intel, Samsung), then decide on your required level of SSD (budget, consumer, enterprise - in Samsung terms EVO, PRO, Enterprise).  Once you have that, look at the cost per GB for each size offered and look for the sweet spot - that will usually be one or two rungs below the top in terms of size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually this method will work for most things - CPU (use to be cost per Ghz but more murky now), RAM (cost per GB too), Graphics cards (depends, but cost per FPS in a highend game I play is how I do it), HDDs (cost per GB).  There is always a sweet spot on the curve, and it will usually be a little below the bleeding edge, and frequently have sales on (so watch for them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see from follow up comments that you are looking at HDDs because of price, so let's see where the sweetspot lines up for those.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit: Updating analysis for 2.5&quot; drives thanks to comments**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at 2.5&quot; drives that would give you a little bit of a speed boost (7200 rpm) and not worrying about the interface (the PS4 is limited to SATA II) one thing that was immediately obvious is that there is not a lot of choice, here is the cost per GB of a selection of Seagate 2.5&quot; 7200 RPM drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* $0.188/GB - 1TB&#xD;&#xA;* $0.186/GB - 750GB &#xD;&#xA;* $0.129/GB - 500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That 500GB model was actually cheaper than the smaller drives, so hardly a surprise that they are the default for the PS4.  It's worth noting that the SSD 1TB prices are &quot;only&quot; 2x the 7200 RPM hard drives in the 2.5&quot; form factor, so it's not as much of a premium as compared to 3.5&quot; drives (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my original comparison, where I mistakenly profiled 3.5&quot; drives.  It's illustrative, so I will leave it here for reference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will pick a single brand that I have good experience with (Seagate), go for 7200 rpm drives, and not pay too much attention to other factors (warranty, cache etc.) since this is a rough estimation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $0.092 per GB - 500GB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.049 per GB - 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.0375 per GB - 2TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.03 per GB - 3TB&#xD;&#xA; - $0.038 per GB - 5TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The particular model I was looking at for convenience did not have 4TB/6TB sizes listed, but you get the idea - it looks like 3TB or 4TB is your likely sweet spot from a cost per GB perspective (as an aside: about one tenth of the SSD prices above), so I would look for well reviewed, reliable drives in that range and buy with confidence (for now).  Just for reference, the 8TB 7200 RPM drives are rare and are coming in at ~$0.7 per GB as of writing this answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="7c9c9b00-2cff-494a-96e9-830f7c97aa58" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:40:07.030" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the [gammer] tag into [gaming]. Fixed grammar." Text="I work with software development and have some games that I want to play. Games like `The Witcher 3`, `Diablo 3: RoS`, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that I need a notebook with 2GB Video and 8GB RAM. I don't know how to choose the best option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a hot country, so I need something that won't overheat." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1418" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="7c9c9b00-2cff-494a-96e9-830f7c97aa58" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:40:07.030" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the [gammer] tag into [gaming]. Fixed grammar." Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="66a25da5-b6d6-43c4-a51b-24d14804c620" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:59:53.813" UserId="372" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="I work with software development and have some games that I want to play. Games like `The Witcher 3`, `Diablo 3: RoS`, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that I need a notebook with 2GB Video and 8GB RAM. I don't know how to choose the best option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a hot country, so I need something that won't overheat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other configurations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 7/8/10&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad(Optional)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard Backlight(Optional)&#xD;&#xA; - 750GB ~ 2TB(SSD or HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen at least 14''&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0(Optional)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="0bbaaeb6-1159-4091-89e4-941654837dcc" CreationDate="2015-09-23T18:01:32.823" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="I work with software development and have some games that I want to play. Games like The Witcher 3, Diablo 3: RoS, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that I need a notebook with 2GB Video and 8GB RAM. I don't know how to choose the best option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a hot country, so I need something that won't overheat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other configurations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 7/8/10&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad (Optional)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard Backlight (Optional)&#xD;&#xA; - 750GB ~ 2TB (SSD or HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen at least 14''&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 (Optional)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1422" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="75cf5b29-c410-463d-b279-5c0853108da3" CreationDate="2015-09-23T18:20:07.623" UserId="60" Comment="Organized requirment list." Text="I work with software development and have some games that I want to play. Games like The Witcher 3, Diablo 3: RoS, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a hot country, so I need something that won't overheat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 7/8/10&#xD;&#xA; - 2GB Video Memory&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 750GB ~ 2TB (SSD or HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen at least 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Numpad&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard Backlight&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1423" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="420" RevisionGUID="72ac1430-d2ce-480c-9e66-8056d489cb2a" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:09:14.787" UserId="155" Comment="capitalization" Text="I have some nice wireless [consumer][1] [routers][2], but will soon be running into their limits in terms of bandwidth/throughput capabilities (assuming my ISP delivers on 1Gb connections). Hence, I am looking to roll my own router again for the first time since I started to use WiFi.  I also have an eye on the future (IPV6) and generally like building my own gear. I have enough parts lying around (CPU, case, RAM etc.) to provide most of the building blocks of a nice beefy router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing I don't have, and have no experience with is the wireless card itself - I have never purchased one separately, only used the ones already in laptops or SFF PCs.  My larger machines have all been wired only.  My short-list of preferred features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux driver support (native preferred, not religious about it being open, just stable and performant)&#xD;&#xA;* 802.11ac/n/g support&#xD;&#xA;* PCI Express preferred over USB (half height option a bonus, not required)&#xD;&#xA;* Decent performance (throughput) and range (anecdotal experience is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.netgear.ie/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7000.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.linksys.com/us/support-product?pid=01t80000003KUz3AAG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1424" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="420" RevisionGUID="72ac1430-d2ce-480c-9e66-8056d489cb2a" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:09:14.787" UserId="155" Comment="capitalization" Text="Wireless card for a DIY Linux router/firewall" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1425" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="8076e7df-9e90-4b98-bff5-0b2eb13daa58" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:11:48.013" UserId="155" Comment="clarification" Text="I work with software development and have some games that I want to play. Games like The Witcher 3, Diablo 3: RoS, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in a hot country, so I need something that won't overheat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 7/8/10&#xD;&#xA; - 2GB VRAM&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 750GB to 2TB storage (SSD or HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen at least 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Numpad&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard backlight&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1426" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="423" RevisionGUID="38728a86-26ad-4cf1-b546-116d5b1bddeb" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:52:30.207" UserId="155" Comment="minor title edit" Text="Notebook for work and fun" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1429" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="424" RevisionGUID="f9dcb0ed-acc6-48c8-89ee-726f89121de4" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:38:11.513" UserId="67" Text="I'm looking for a DVD player which is region-free and will play discs from any region, as well as allowing me to skip unskippable titles (usually ads). Like VLC Media player on PC can do, but I'm looking for a standalone DVD player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ability to remember where I was when I turn it off, so that it can resume playing from the same point, and that it can do so reliably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus points if it does HDMI upscaling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price-wise, lower is better, and I'm also fine with flashing or hacking the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any such players ? If so, any recommendations ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1430" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="424" RevisionGUID="f9dcb0ed-acc6-48c8-89ee-726f89121de4" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:38:11.513" UserId="67" Text="All region DVD player which also lets me skip unskippable titles?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="424" RevisionGUID="f9dcb0ed-acc6-48c8-89ee-726f89121de4" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:38:11.513" UserId="67" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;dvd-player&gt;&lt;dvd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="425" RevisionGUID="0384daff-59be-4119-b37c-16f9160046d0" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:54:44.110" UserId="374" Text="In doing some quick research it would appear that on several DVD players it is possible to make it [region free][1]. That would open up your options drastically. However, if you want to go with an easier approach. There are a number of them that are for sale on amazon. You should be able to search for &quot;region free dvd player&quot; and get good results. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here][2] is one by phillips that appears to meet all of your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.wisebread.com/make-your-dvd-player-region-free-in-seconds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amzn.com/B004BI6MVS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="426" RevisionGUID="0f5d719e-fad4-4302-b963-07e7395023b2" CreationDate="2015-09-23T21:32:41.560" UserId="54" Text="**Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231** meets your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;A comprehensive review can be found [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;I am talking about model with GTX 960M. Price: 1499 Euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to your spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA [GeForce GTX 960M][2] has 4096 MB GDDR5 memory - the same memory bandwidth as the previous GTX 860M, it has higher core clock and it leads to a slightly better performance. 960M is almost 10 percent faster and similar to the desktop GTX 750 Ti. Many games of 2014/2015 can be played fluently in FullHD resolution and high detail settings.&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: up to 16 GB DDR3-1600, dual-channel, two memory banks&#xD;&#xA;http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960M.138006.0.html&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB. It is less than desired, but it can be easily replaced. Take the price into account - SSD are much more expensive. &#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, Samsung L FLLTN156FL02L01, IPS (glossy)&#xD;&#xA; - There are three USB ports on this notebook, whereas two of them are USB 3.0 ports ([Source][3])&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad: Yes&#xD;&#xA; - Backlight: Yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The side shafts of the island-style keys are made of translucent red&#xD;&#xA;&gt; plastic, and the light shines through the actual key bodies, rather&#xD;&#xA;&gt; than simply leaking from around the key cutouts, as in other backlit&#xD;&#xA;&gt; laptops. [Source][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Gaming Performance** &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Lenovo's Y50 is explicitly aimed at gamers. Thus,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it is not surprising that it can render all current games smoothly. It&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is normally possible to select the Full HD resolution and high to very&#xD;&#xA;&gt; high quality settings. The resolution and/or quality level has to be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reduced in some games, for example &quot;The Witcher 3&quot;. The frame rates&#xD;&#xA;&gt; are only slightly higher than that of laptops equipped with a GeForce&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GTX 860M graphics core. However, the advantage over 860 models of the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Y50 is greater, like in the 3DMark benchmarks, because the GeForce GTX&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 860M GPUs in the Y50 models do not clock at their maximum possible&#xD;&#xA;&gt; speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The screen's maximum resolution (3840 x 2160 pixels) can only be fully&#xD;&#xA;&gt; utilized in rare cases. This option is at most possible in games that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; only have moderate hardware requirements. The Y50 only achieves just&#xD;&#xA;&gt; below 70 fps in the benchmark of the game &quot;Dirt Rally&quot; in very low&#xD;&#xA;&gt; quality settings. The rates drop to 25.3 fps in medium and 22.8 fps in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; high settings. [Source][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Photo from http://www.notebookcheck.net][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960M.138006.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-59441231.141509.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-y50-touch/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pbkKR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qkOaQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Mkc2O.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1434" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="426" RevisionGUID="a1bbbdd6-9edd-478c-b58b-15d07935f40f" CreationDate="2015-09-23T21:41:45.057" UserId="54" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="**Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231** meets your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;A comprehensive review can be found [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;I am talking about model with GTX 960M. Price: 1499 Euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to your spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA [GeForce GTX 960M][2] has 4096 MB GDDR5 memory - the same memory bandwidth as the previous GTX 860M, it has higher core clock and it leads to a slightly better performance. 960M is almost 10 percent faster and similar to the desktop GTX 750 Ti. Many games of 2014/2015 can be played fluently in FullHD resolution and high detail settings.&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: up to 16 GB DDR3-1600, dual-channel, two memory banks&#xD;&#xA;http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960M.138006.0.html&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB. It is less than desired, but it can be easily replaced. Take the price into account - SSD are much more expensive. &#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, Samsung L FLLTN156FL02L01, IPS (glossy)&#xD;&#xA; - There are three USB ports on this notebook, whereas two of them are USB 3.0 ports ([Source][3])&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad: Yes&#xD;&#xA; - Backlight: Yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The side shafts of the island-style keys are made of translucent red&#xD;&#xA;&gt; plastic, and the light shines through the actual key bodies, rather&#xD;&#xA;&gt; than simply leaking from around the key cutouts, as in other backlit&#xD;&#xA;&gt; laptops. [Source][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Gaming Performance** &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Lenovo's Y50 is explicitly aimed at gamers. Thus,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it is not surprising that it can render all current games smoothly. It&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is normally possible to select the Full HD resolution and high to very&#xD;&#xA;&gt; high quality settings. The resolution and/or quality level has to be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reduced in some games, for example &quot;The Witcher 3&quot;. The frame rates&#xD;&#xA;&gt; are only slightly higher than that of laptops equipped with a GeForce&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GTX 860M graphics core. However, the advantage over 860 models of the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Y50 is greater, like in the 3DMark benchmarks, because the GeForce GTX&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 860M GPUs in the Y50 models do not clock at their maximum possible&#xD;&#xA;&gt; speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The screen's maximum resolution (3840 x 2160 pixels) can only be fully&#xD;&#xA;&gt; utilized in rare cases. This option is at most possible in games that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; only have moderate hardware requirements. The Y50 only achieves just&#xD;&#xA;&gt; below 70 fps in the benchmark of the game &quot;Dirt Rally&quot; in very low&#xD;&#xA;&gt; quality settings. The rates drop to 25.3 fps in medium and 22.8 fps in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; high settings. [Source][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Photo from http://www.notebookcheck.net][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Diablo III Reaper of Souls on Lenovo Y50-70 (with 860M).][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960M.138006.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-59441231.141509.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-y50-touch/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pbkKR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-aaPUqZ2UE&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qkOaQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Mkc2O.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1435" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="427" RevisionGUID="8bb1074c-4780-4ecb-8999-df30958b9b84" CreationDate="2015-09-23T22:04:53.140" UserId="54" Text="[VIVO Triple LCD Monitor Desk Mount][1] seems reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **VESA Mount (75 X 75 &amp; 100 X 100 mounting holes)**&#xD;&#xA;- Tilt: -15 to +15 Degree - Swivel: 360 Degree - Rotate: 360 Degree&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy Duty &amp; High Grade Steel and Aluminum&#xD;&#xA;- Fits Three Screens up to 24&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated cable management system &#xD;&#xA;- Monitor can be installed either in portrait or landscape shape &#xD;&#xA;- Fully adjustable arms &#xD;&#xA;- Center Post is 18&quot; tall and the mounting brackets are exactly 21&quot; on center (apart)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V003/dp/B009S7ALH8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wxe1E.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/B2g7t.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s3wDL.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1445" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="429" RevisionGUID="80fc79cf-4c4e-4214-ab08-a7dbedf1dff2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T10:13:51.713" UserId="54" Text="Think about [Logitech G105][1]. Price: $39.99 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to your spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **6 programmable G-keys**: Configure up to 18 unique functions per game, including single key presses, complex macros or intricate Lua scripts* (*Requires software installation)&#xD;&#xA; - Long-life blue LED backlighting (**Two different brightness levels plus Off**)&#xD;&#xA; - **Quick-access media controls:** volume, mute, start, stop, pause, forward and back functions.&#xD;&#xA; - It works with Windows 8 and you don't have to care about W10 compatibility. It's more about marketing rather than specific adjustment.&#xD;&#xA; - Game/desktop switch: Disables the Windows/Context Menu keys to prevent accidental game interruptions&#xD;&#xA; - It's full-size keyboards and seems to be solid&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have an extra USB think about [Logitech G710+][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Unboxing &amp; First Look Linus Tech Tips][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G105-Gaming-Keyboard-Backlighting/dp/B00BBUCCKO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/U7whW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009C98NPY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUI-htHPUpM&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8gjgh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="430" RevisionGUID="7e4aa2d0-1680-406b-9023-4c9db0c9028c" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:04:14.123" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for the smallest Wi-Fi AP (access point) supporting either b, g or n.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm expect to be nano/pocket size (either on battery, charge USB or being USB stick it-self). With or without support for external antenna. Price doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally size of EP-N8531, but it's just adapter. It's mainly just for sending SSID around with some pretty much basic Wi-Fi functionality, so I could connect to it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1447" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="430" RevisionGUID="7e4aa2d0-1680-406b-9023-4c9db0c9028c" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:04:14.123" UserId="15" Text="Nano Wi-Fi access point" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1448" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="430" RevisionGUID="7e4aa2d0-1680-406b-9023-4c9db0c9028c" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:04:14.123" UserId="15" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="a8249c62-c098-4b5a-9572-c0ccfabf9471" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:30:40.773" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for pocket size keyboard, so it can be carried between work on daily basis without additional headache. Can either wireless or wired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which would work without any lags or known problems (such as easily mistaking &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt; with &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt; - and all my tabs are gone). It should be compatible with OS X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be either foldable, rollable, invisible or similar, so I'm not sure which one you can recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1450" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="a8249c62-c098-4b5a-9572-c0ccfabf9471" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:30:40.773" UserId="15" Text="Pocket size keyboard for a programmer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1451" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="a8249c62-c098-4b5a-9572-c0ccfabf9471" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:30:40.773" UserId="15" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1452" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="432" RevisionGUID="c0707d11-b463-4807-ac4f-2d8fc9add642" CreationDate="2015-09-24T12:00:44.157" UserId="378" Text="I often explore the countryside with my smartphone saddled on my bicycle providing GPS information. This is battery-intensive so I would like to charge the phone while riding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not using secondary batteries. Must tap bicycle motion, vibration, solar energy or anything similar&#xD;&#xA;- Must not make the bicycle sensibly slower: most energy-efficient solution wins&#xD;&#xA;- Output can be plugged into the smartphone's Micro-B USB slot&#xD;&#xA;- Under 100 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Micro-B USB][1]][1][![Smartphone on bicycle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnpcc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EO4TFm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="432" RevisionGUID="c0707d11-b463-4807-ac4f-2d8fc9add642" CreationDate="2015-09-24T12:00:44.157" UserId="378" Text="Charging a smartphone on a bicycle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1454" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="432" RevisionGUID="c0707d11-b463-4807-ac4f-2d8fc9add642" CreationDate="2015-09-24T12:00:44.157" UserId="378" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="434" RevisionGUID="ba9349b0-7925-4133-bb5a-1ba763d8b444" CreationDate="2015-09-24T13:05:57.823" UserId="122" Text="When time came to replace my venerable [Iiyama E511S][1] in 2013 (after ~9 years of service) I did a lot of research - I wanted something in the 24&quot; range, widescreen, with crisp text and a decent response rate and I didn't want to get ripped off in terms of price, but wanted an IPS panel.  In the end, after reading a lot of reviews I went with the [Dell Ultrasharp U2412M][2], and the best price I found was on Amazon (not Dell direct).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time it cost me ~€300 but it can be had for around the €250 mark now.  I know that is a little above your stated price target but that's largely thanks to the crappy Euro exchange rates.  It is sub 200 pound sterling on Amazon UK at the moment and less than $250 in the states, so you may be able to source it a bit cheaper than €250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have this right next to a [BenQ G2400W][3] as a second screen and the difference is noticeable, particularly when reading text (much crisper, less tiring on the eyes) or playing something hi-res.  For SD or DVD quality video the BenQ is fine, but 1080P or hi-res games are much, much better on the Dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been so happy with it that I even wrote a [review of my purchase][4] on Amazon, something I rarely do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One note where this misses your stated requirements: this has [DisplayPort and DVI rather than HDMI][5] - was not a concern for me (did not need sound, already had an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lcd,823-5.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=320-2676&amp;baynote_bnrank=0&amp;baynote_irrank=0&amp;~ck=baynoteSearch&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/BenQ-G2400W-24in-LCD-Monitor-review&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/customer-reviews/R3EWTQQXCIQX1F/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B005LNDPPS&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/78/122" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="c5421e8b-ffce-4182-935f-cc756a6452ba" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:33:32.743" UserId="65" Text="Years ago, I was into home PC DVRs with many tuners, lots of storage, and awesome PC-based playback throughout the house. I started with Beyond TV and when they quit developing new home user features began the switch to SageTV. I ripped all my movies (DVD, Blu-Ray) to an SMB network share (SageTV worked with these). Then Google came along and purchased SageTV and promptly killed it before I was able to switch over from PCs to their STBs. I'm interested in restarting this home project so that my movie collection is available without a PC, so I'd like a good STB to play them. I prefer to store them in (unencrypted) native format so that menus are intact and no additional compression artifacts have been introduced (not to mention the extra time and computing power required for recompression). Currently I have everything in folders (with VIDEO_TS or BDMV subfolders with standard files inside), but I might be convinced to switch to single-file .ISO format. I'd also like my family to be able to use the devices when I'm not around, so a high [WAF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wife_acceptance_factor) is a must. So to summarize, my requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Pre-built set-top box with remote control (PCs are too bulky/power-hungry and DIY is too much work)&#xD;&#xA; * At least 1080p playback with output that can be easily converted to HDMI&#xD;&#xA; * Can play either native DVD and Blu-Ray folders with menus or ISO disk image files&#xD;&#xA; * At least a moderately high [WAF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wife_acceptance_factor), ie. simple to use playback interface (adding new shows need not necessarily be so simple)&#xD;&#xA; * Low cost (preferably less than $50, but the WAF is probably of greater weight)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Netflix player&#xD;&#xA; * Wired network connection in addition to wireless&#xD;&#xA; * 4K+ support&#xD;&#xA; * Smartphone remote control&#xD;&#xA; * Parental controls (I won't be needing this but I have lots of people who do ask me for advice on these types of things)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. If there is a plugin for a popular STB that adds this functionality, that would be great too, especially Roku (I already have a Roku 2--the old Roku 2, not the new Roku 2!).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="c5421e8b-ffce-4182-935f-cc756a6452ba" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:33:32.743" UserId="65" Text="Home Movie Player for DVD/Blu-Ray" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="c5421e8b-ffce-4182-935f-cc756a6452ba" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:33:32.743" UserId="65" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;dvd&gt;&lt;stb&gt;&lt;1080p&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1460" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="c4e1bce3-fbb2-4596-b525-7f0c80f79cf4" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:02:44.653" UserId="60" Comment="Added the [head-tracking] tag." Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1461" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="ef06d1a8-a0f8-48d6-943b-7d80a6851ae6" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:03:16.253" UserId="60" Comment="Added the [power-bank] tag." Text="&lt;external-battery&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1462" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="178" RevisionGUID="ab103f12-c4c7-4c22-bfd8-e6ac4d361f75" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:27:26.273" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="436" RevisionGUID="5803a0d7-9dd0-4a04-9de0-ecc00052cb13" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:39:07.757" UserId="122" Text="My limiting factor from a video perspective at home is now my KVM.  It is DVI based and supports up to 1920x1200 resolution.  If I want to move to 4k I am going to need a replacement.  Can anyone give a specific recommendation in terms of a KVM used successfully with higher (4k) resolutions, or even pointers to ones with these capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4 Ports minimum&#xD;&#xA;- 3840 x 2160 Resolution (or better) Supported @60Hz&#xD;&#xA;- USB/Audio switching supported (USB2.0+ preferred)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides that I have no preference for HDMI or DisplayPort, and I am happy with being able to switch audio as stereo (i.e. it does not have to be carried over the same cable as the video).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example of something that comes close, but not quite close enough, this [KVM from Startech][1] will only support 4k resolutions at reduced frame rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/4-Port-USB-DisplayPort-KVM-Switch-with-Audio~SV431DPUA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1464" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="436" RevisionGUID="5803a0d7-9dd0-4a04-9de0-ecc00052cb13" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:39:07.757" UserId="122" Text="KVM with four ports to support 4k Resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1465" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="436" RevisionGUID="5803a0d7-9dd0-4a04-9de0-ecc00052cb13" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:39:07.757" UserId="122" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1466" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="436" RevisionGUID="b80c9006-fd90-42ce-9540-3f60d7fc766a" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:45:01.997" UserId="60" Comment="Added the [display-port] tag" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="437" RevisionGUID="d5220f10-f661-45b5-b18f-90c939cf17c2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:46:44.877" UserId="57" Text="I recommend Siva Cycle's [&quot;The Atom&quot;][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![The Atom - Siva Cycle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product mounts to the rear wheel. Siva has good [instructions][3] on how to install it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![The Atom - Mounted to rear wheel][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using this, it can charge constantly via USB. I use it to charge my HTC M8 while using it's GPS features. It also has a battery pack, which you can use for power while away from your bicycle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One very important note: This does **not** work with [disk brakes][5]. You indicated that you have [rim brakes][6]. This means you won't have a problem with your current bicycle. It is something to remember, though, when you replace the bicycle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Siva][1] has the product for sale at $130. [Amazon][7] has the same price. It is weather resistant to [IP-4 standards][8]. This protects you against splashing water. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not noticed any slow down while using this. Installation took me about 5 minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://sivacycle.com/products/the-atom&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uUUn6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://sivacycle.com/pages/the-siva-atom-installation&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/85Tyz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://sheldonbrown.com/disc-brakes.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/Siva-Cycle-The-Atom/dp/B00PV9WQF2&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="438" RevisionGUID="d41ac317-b2b8-41a8-a1b9-144ba4bf8ec0" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:54:24.103" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1469" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="a259d6de-4f2c-495b-a1ac-8747d67a4dc8" CreationDate="2015-09-24T15:54:24.103" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1470" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="b3635248-ef90-4920-a690-d183a40d5386" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:08:01.630" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the [1080p] tag to [high-definition]." Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;dvd&gt;&lt;stb&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1471" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="1cc8959e-144f-46a7-bb09-c3e46de63f97" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:09:44.840" UserId="122" Comment="Added HDMI tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1472" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="1cc8959e-144f-46a7-bb09-c3e46de63f97" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:09:44.840" Comment="Proposed by 122 approved by 60, 70 edit id of 112" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1473" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="843fbb80-85ba-45cf-b4ba-afb0eec17e8c" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:36:40.423" UserId="60" Comment="Updated tags" Text="What are the differences between monitors inputs (HDMI, Display Port, DVI, VGA)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1474" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="843fbb80-85ba-45cf-b4ba-afb0eec17e8c" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:36:40.423" UserId="60" Comment="Updated tags" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1475" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="dce806fd-2577-437e-9c93-76a666b33a68" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:54:24.547" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [durability] tag and added [ergonomic]." Text="&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1476" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="d0269c85-d261-4ebe-8847-972ff9ef6907" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:57:50.037" UserId="122" Comment="Adding the video tech tags related to the requirements" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1477" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="d0269c85-d261-4ebe-8847-972ff9ef6907" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:57:50.037" Comment="Proposed by 122 approved by 54, 60 edit id of 113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1478" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="429" RevisionGUID="03901f30-a275-4b7a-8c7b-9d0929cb9ecc" CreationDate="2015-09-24T18:20:27.350" UserId="54" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="Think about [Logitech G105][1]. Price: $39.99 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to your spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **6 programmable G-keys**: Configure up to 18 unique functions per game, including single key presses, complex macros or intricate Lua scripts* (*Requires software installation)&#xD;&#xA; - Long-life blue LED backlighting (**Two different brightness levels plus Off**)&#xD;&#xA; - **Quick-access media controls:** volume, mute, start, stop, pause, forward and back functions.&#xD;&#xA; - It works with Windows 8 and you don't have to care about W10 compatibility. It's more about marketing rather than specific adjustment.&#xD;&#xA; - Game/desktop switch: Disables the Windows/Context Menu keys to prevent accidental game interruptions&#xD;&#xA; - It's full-size keyboards and seems to be solid&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you want to have an extra USB think about [Logitech G710+][3]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about G710+ is cable routing underneath the keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check also:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Unboxing &amp; First Look Linus Tech Tips][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G105-Gaming-Keyboard-Backlighting/dp/B00BBUCCKO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/U7whW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009C98NPY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/k1rmb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUI-htHPUpM&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8gjgh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1479" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="438" RevisionGUID="1047b77e-5fde-4d77-a460-bcca85295b45" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:27:41.333" UserId="122" Comment="added 892 characters in body" Text="Keyboard, Video and Mouse switches allow a single set of peripherals (now usually including other devices via shared USB hubs) to be shared by multiple machines.  They have existed for quite some time and have supported many different keyboard, mouse and video standards.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some KVM implementations are based on simple electronic switches, others abstract the switching to the network and can be managed remotely.  Most will provide the option to switch inputs based on keyboard strokes as well as switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key things which differentiate KVM switches are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number of ports&#xD;&#xA;* Maximum video resolution supported&#xD;&#xA;* Manageability (remote, or local only)&#xD;&#xA;* Input technology, for example:&#xD;&#xA; * VGA/DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort for Video&#xD;&#xA; * Serial/PS2/USB for keyboard/mouse&#xD;&#xA; * Stereo 3.5mm/HDMI for audio&#xD;&#xA; * Shared USB (1.1, 2.0, 3.0) hub for other devices&#xD;&#xA;* Cabling (captive or modular)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1480" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="438" RevisionGUID="1047b77e-5fde-4d77-a460-bcca85295b45" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:27:41.333" Comment="Proposed by 122 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1481" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="412" RevisionGUID="26223b1a-196e-46b8-95be-c0efcf36777e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:27:46.397" UserId="155" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="For questions related to technology that tracks eye movement to be used by a computing device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1482" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="412" RevisionGUID="26223b1a-196e-46b8-95be-c0efcf36777e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:27:46.397" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 108" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1483" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="cb65a0c5-88b0-4c15-aeeb-33299166a9ec" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:01.317" UserId="122" Comment="added 357 characters in body" Text="KVM (Keyboard, Video and Mouse) switches are used to share a single set of input and display devices between multiple machines.  Commonly available in 2 and 4 port configurations for home use, but extending far beyond that in data centers and commercial use.  KVM switches now commonly share other devices via USB as well as audio beyond the original three." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1484" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="cb65a0c5-88b0-4c15-aeeb-33299166a9ec" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:01.317" Comment="Proposed by 122 approved by -1 edit id of 111" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="403d30c6-c509-4768-ae48-39e8ccd3a526" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:01.317" UserId="214" Comment="Too much detail for an excerpt " Text="For questions about selecting KVM switches (Keyboard, Video and Mouse) switches used to share a single set of input and display devices between multiple machines. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="414" RevisionGUID="5bbb1bea-2865-46fe-a852-bf95b7a96c5f" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:20.497" UserId="155" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="For questions related to hardware running on or interacting with the popular Linux-based OS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1487" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="414" RevisionGUID="5bbb1bea-2865-46fe-a852-bf95b7a96c5f" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:20.497" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 109" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1488" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="408" RevisionGUID="39c6daaf-1ab2-4458-9e0a-53bd3878fd96" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:29.507" UserId="155" Comment="clarity" Text="An abbreviation for Peripheral Component Interconnect Express. For questions related to the connectivity between a motherboard and its bus devices (e.g., a graphics card)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1489" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="408" RevisionGUID="39c6daaf-1ab2-4458-9e0a-53bd3878fd96" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:29.507" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 106" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="406" RevisionGUID="c3547409-64e7-46d0-80b5-04a5145b6ee2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:44.257" UserId="155" Comment="added 137 characters in body" Text="For questions related to the do-it-yourself single-board PC. This tag should only be used when asking about add-ons for the Raspberry Pi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1491" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="406" RevisionGUID="c3547409-64e7-46d0-80b5-04a5145b6ee2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:30:44.257" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 105" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="410" RevisionGUID="baa2878e-dc0d-4d34-a0bd-80b7a01ebb8d" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:31:01.447" UserId="155" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning a piece of hardware's ability to withstand extensive use in various ways." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1493" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="410" RevisionGUID="baa2878e-dc0d-4d34-a0bd-80b7a01ebb8d" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:31:01.447" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1494" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="429" RevisionGUID="1fe5d12b-c7c0-47dc-a0e1-bc2c48df1054" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:54:05.100" UserId="1" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Think about [Logitech G105][1]. Price: $39.99 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to your spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **6 programmable G-keys**: Configure up to 18 unique functions per game, including single key presses, complex macros or intricate Lua scripts* (*Requires software installation)&#xD;&#xA; - Long-life blue LED backlighting (**Two different brightness levels plus Off**)&#xD;&#xA; - **Quick-access media controls:** volume, mute, start, stop, pause, forward and back functions.&#xD;&#xA; - It works with Windows 8 and you don't have to care about W10 compatibility. It's more about marketing rather than specific adjustment.&#xD;&#xA; - Game/desktop switch: Disables the Windows/Context Menu keys to prevent accidental game interruptions&#xD;&#xA; - It's a full-size keyboard and seems to be solid&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you want to have an extra USB think about [Logitech G710+][3]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about G710+ is cable routing underneath the keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check also:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Unboxing &amp; First Look Linus Tech Tips][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G105-Gaming-Keyboard-Backlighting/dp/B00BBUCCKO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/U7whW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009C98NPY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/k1rmb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUI-htHPUpM&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8gjgh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1495" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="293" RevisionGUID="688360f0-5919-45b1-bd22-1c6bf4b1008d" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:25:09.277" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:74,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JohnB&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="1496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="ce4f3e53-8b45-4319-839d-62204dbe2f88" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:28:34.557" UserId="15" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for pocket size keyboard, so it can be carried between work on daily basis without additional headache. Can either be wireless or wired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which would work without any lags or known problems (such as easily mistaking &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt; with &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt; - and all my tabs are gone). It should be compatible with OS X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be either foldable, rollable, invisible or similar to not take much space when travelling, so I'm not sure which one you can recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1497" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="98e509d9-2ad6-4d9f-839e-cacdd7781812" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:32:44.987" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation" Text="I'm looking for pocket-size keyboard, so it can be carried between work on daily basis without additional headache. Can either be wireless or wired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which would work without any lags or known problems (such as easily mistaking &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt; with &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt; - and all my tabs are gone). It should be compatible with OS X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be either foldable, rollable, invisible or similar to not take much space when travelling, so I'm not sure which one you can recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1498" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="98e509d9-2ad6-4d9f-839e-cacdd7781812" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:32:44.987" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation" Text="Pocket-size keyboard for a programmer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="431" RevisionGUID="bd4c6379-c032-4b6b-9741-949211f2275b" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:10:09.553" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for pocket-size keyboard, so it can be carried between work on daily basis without additional headache. Can either be wireless or wired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should work without any lag or known problems (such as easily mistaking &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt; with &lt;kbd&gt;⌘&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt; - and all my tabs are gone). It should be compatible with OS X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be either foldable, rollable, invisible or similar to not take much space when travelling, so I'm not sure which one you can recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="425" RevisionGUID="81570cd3-840e-4a61-bb39-0bb45d1a788e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:57:46.143" UserId="374" Comment="Added more explanation and clarification" Text="In doing some quick research it would appear that on several DVD players it is possible to make it [region free][1]. That would open up your options drastically. However, if you want to go with an easier approach. There are a number of them that are for sale on amazon. You should be able to search for &quot;region free dvd player&quot; and get good results. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here][2] is one by phillips that appears to meet most of your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From all that I am able to find, there is no DVD player that will allow you to skip through the content that is not meant to be skipped through (anti-piracy, FBI Warning, etc.). If you truly need that experience, your best bet might be to do an HTPC. This will cost quite a bit more potentially, but will allow for what you are asking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you get a region free dvd player like the [Phillips][1] one it will have upscaling and should remember where you left off. There are some [shortcut button combinations to allow DVD items to be skipped][3], though they may not provide that much benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.wisebread.com/make-your-dvd-player-region-free-in-seconds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amzn.com/B004BI6MVS&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://lifehacker.com/5518076/hit-stop---stop---play-and-other-tricks-to-skip-dvd-trailers-and-warnings" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="528348e2-0b57-47df-b979-66cac4fd617e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:15:25.213" UserId="155" Comment="better tag, improved readability, added link for better understanding" Text="Years ago, I was into home PC DVRs with many tuners, lots of storage, and awesome PC-based playback throughout the house. I started with Beyond TV and when they quit developing new home user features began the switch to SageTV. I ripped all my movies (DVD, Blu-Ray) to an [SMB](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Server_Message_Block) network share (SageTV worked with these). Then Google came along and purchased SageTV and promptly killed it before I was able to switch over from PCs to their set-top boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm interested in restarting this home project so that my movie collection is available without a PC, so I'd like a good STB to play them. I prefer to store them in (unencrypted) native format so that menus are intact and no additional compression artifacts have been introduced (not to mention the extra time and computing power required for recompression). Currently I have everything in folders (with VIDEO_TS or BDMV subfolders with standard files inside), but I might be convinced to switch to single-file .ISO format. I'd also like my family to be able to use the devices when I'm not around, so a high [WAF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wife_acceptance_factor) is a must. So to summarize, my requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Pre-built set-top box with remote control (PCs are too bulky/power-hungry and DIY is too much work)&#xD;&#xA; * At least 1080p playback with output that can be easily converted to HDMI&#xD;&#xA; * Can play either native DVD and Blu-Ray folders with menus or ISO disk image files&#xD;&#xA; * At least a moderately high [WAF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wife_acceptance_factor), ie. simple to use playback interface (adding new shows need not necessarily be so simple)&#xD;&#xA; * Low cost (preferably less than $50, but the WAF is probably of greater weight)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Netflix player&#xD;&#xA; * Wired network connection in addition to wireless&#xD;&#xA; * 4K+ support&#xD;&#xA; * Smartphone remote control&#xD;&#xA; * Parental controls (I won't be needing this but I have lots of people who do ask me for advice on these types of things)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. If there is a plugin for a popular STB that adds this functionality, that would be great too, especially Roku (I already have a Roku 2--the old Roku 2, not the new Roku 2!).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1502" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="528348e2-0b57-47df-b979-66cac4fd617e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:15:25.213" UserId="155" Comment="better tag, improved readability, added link for better understanding" Text="Home movie player for DVD/Blu-Ray" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1503" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="528348e2-0b57-47df-b979-66cac4fd617e" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:15:25.213" UserId="155" Comment="better tag, improved readability, added link for better understanding" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;dvd&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;&lt;set-top-box&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="440" RevisionGUID="0b4596c6-6724-4cdd-8768-ad72ba80d2e2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:19:26.670" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="441" RevisionGUID="f42c27e7-add3-4455-abc8-8d5e0ee4c6f2" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:19:26.670" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="442" RevisionGUID="45998b4d-906c-47c9-ac6f-ed6d4ba9de52" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:34:00.890" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1507" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="443" RevisionGUID="d6c04864-5567-479a-a67c-70e3f3aebf86" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:34:00.890" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="444" RevisionGUID="7e81816b-2563-4c7c-bf15-d60176d0c689" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:38:24.363" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="445" RevisionGUID="d00dfa97-5f65-44e6-b702-1688fd09e7dc" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:38:24.363" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="446" RevisionGUID="66852099-6baf-4d79-b6d0-88d640cf0250" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:53:18.547" UserId="150" Text="When running, I wear a GPS watch to track (in addition to my time) the distance I've traveled and my instantaneous pace. However, I've noticed that arm swing can have a bit of an impact on its readings. I don't have a substantial amount of arm swing, but I've noticed that I get a different pace when I hold my arm still than when I keep my arms moving normally (don't ask how I read it then).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a GPS watch that somehow accounts for this to produce more accurate data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have some additional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The price must be less than $90 - which is somewhat cheap for a GPS watch.&#xD;&#xA; - The display size must be no more than about 2 square inches. I prefer smaller watches that don't feel overly bulky.&#xD;&#xA; - The watch must be lightweight. I don't know just what weight is optimal - to be honest, I only notice a difference with really bulky watches - but I'd would prefer, as with the size requirement, for the watch to not be too big.&#xD;&#xA; - The readouts should include distance, time, and pace, with options for different units (i.e. miles and kilometers). The pace should be accurate to the second - I've noticed that my current watch only does this in multiples of five seconds (e.g. it will rounds 7:03 up to 7:05).&#xD;&#xA; - Computer connectivity is a must. I've saved data manually in the past, but I love that my current watch can save runs and later upload the data to a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="446" RevisionGUID="66852099-6baf-4d79-b6d0-88d640cf0250" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:53:18.547" UserId="150" Text="GPS watch that compensates for arm swing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="446" RevisionGUID="66852099-6baf-4d79-b6d0-88d640cf0250" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:53:18.547" UserId="150" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1513" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="446" RevisionGUID="a0805f33-90fc-455a-9d5b-274b0888b783" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:32:41.970" UserId="150" Comment="added 220 characters in body" Text="When running, I wear a GPS watch to track (in addition to my time) the distance I've traveled and my instantaneous pace. However, I've noticed that arm swing can have a bit of an impact on its readings. I don't have a substantial amount of arm swing, but I've noticed that I get a different pace when I hold my arm still than when I keep my arms moving normally (don't ask how I read it then).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a GPS watch that somehow accounts for this to produce more accurate data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have some additional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The price must be less than $90 - which is somewhat cheap for a GPS watch.&#xD;&#xA; - The display size must be no more than about 2 square inches. I prefer smaller watches that don't feel overly bulky.&#xD;&#xA; - The watch must be lightweight. I don't know just what weight is optimal - to be honest, I only notice a difference with really bulky watches - but I'd would prefer, as with the size requirement, for the watch to not be too big.&#xD;&#xA; - The readouts should include distance, time, and pace, with options for different units (i.e. miles and kilometers). The pace should be accurate to the second - I've noticed that my current watch only does this in multiples of five seconds (e.g. it will rounds 7:03 up to 7:05).&#xD;&#xA; - Computer connectivity is a must. I've saved data manually in the past, but I love that my current watch can save runs and later upload the data to a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm somewhat flexible with these requirements, because I have yet to find a watch with this feature. If I have to sacrifice one or more requirements to find a watch, then I may do so. Feel free to bend them slightly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="447" RevisionGUID="e59ba854-a437-4695-969d-152b24dc3e87" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:47:15.027" UserId="116" Text="**The [Globalsat ND100][1] seems to be what you're looking for.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a bit bulky, but it seems to do everything you need it to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's only $35USD&#xD;&#xA; - Has a thumb-drive-like form factor (Besides it being a bit bulkier than a thumb-drive)&#xD;&#xA; - It states to have `&quot;Very low power consumption&quot;`&#xD;&#xA; - According to [this][2] article, any GPS  receiver that advertises NMEA-0183 compliance will work with GPSD; which this receiver does. So it should be compatible (Though I never tested it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;Looks like this actually uses Micro-USB, not standard USB. But a simple [adapter][3] should work (And still be well under your budget)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Globalsat-ND100-upgrade-ND105C-ND-105C-Super-Small-GPS-USB-Dongle-New-2015-/221454923733&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.catb.org/gpsd/hardware.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Black-Female-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00HPK9EUU/ref=pd_cp_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=17ZSQK7ZY3H97VQHWK93" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="448" RevisionGUID="417d4fff-f78f-4956-a28d-16b8d7d68ade" CreationDate="2015-09-25T00:01:39.607" UserId="116" Text="It doesn't look like theres a consumer version out yet, but [**Sony SmartEyeglass**][1] looks promising. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a better design than Google Glass (In my opinion)&#xD;&#xA; - Has a SDK (Can't comment on whether it's &quot;good&quot; or not, as I never used it)&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in 3MP camera&#xD;&#xA; - Not 100% sure about integration with mobile apps, but it does say that it supports devices running Android 4.4 and above&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://developer.sonymobile.com/products/smarteyeglass/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1517" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="449" RevisionGUID="ca185c3d-00b4-4df3-b203-7c0c07207952" CreationDate="2015-09-25T00:04:35.133" UserId="2" Text="If you're willing to go for a little bit larger screen and no official support for Cyanogen, then you might like the [Dell Venue 10 7000](http://www.dell.com/us/p/dell-venue-10-7040-tablet/pd?oc=ftcwp01s&amp;model_id=dell-venue-10-7040-tablet) ($499). It has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 10.5&quot; screen (a bit larger than you wanted, but not by too much)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Support for Android Lollipop 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Good speakers, better than most Android tablets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MicroSD card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Optional magnetically attachable keyboard](http://accessories.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;s=dhs&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=580-ACWO), which is also a stand (not included, but can be bought for an additional $160)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Carrying case](http://accessories.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;s=dhs&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=460-BBQM#Overview) (not included, but can be bought for $20) (not a stand)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="447" RevisionGUID="ccb71ca0-9d29-4b69-8552-8c9624d69e3c" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:10:27.133" UserId="116" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="**The [Globalsat ND100][1] seems to be what you're looking for.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a bit bulky, but it seems to do everything you need it to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's only $35USD&#xD;&#xA; - Has a thumb-drive-like form factor (Besides it being a bit bulkier than a thumb-drive)&#xD;&#xA; - It states to have `&quot;Very low power consumption&quot;`&#xD;&#xA; - According to [this][2] article, any GPS  receiver that advertises NMEA-0183 compliance will work with GPSD; which this receiver does. So it should be compatible (Though I never tested it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;Looks like this actually uses Micro-USB, not standard USB. But a simple [adapter][3] should work (And still be well under your budget)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Globalsat-ND100-upgrade-ND105C-ND-105C-Super-Small-GPS-USB-Dongle-New-2015-/221454923733&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.catb.org/gpsd/hardware.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.ca/Male-Micro-Female-Adapter-Black/dp/B009AWA3VK/ref=pd_cp_229_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1M96GTNNN4XWX6PY11HY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="415" RevisionGUID="b37487cf-c475-4bc5-8e91-f4a193117dbe" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:16:51.457" UserId="1" Comment="added 149 characters in body" Text="I'm going against the tide here: **OS X**. It can be easier to use for development stuff (especially web, can't vouch for .NET development and other such Microsoft technologies.), and it doesn't cost as much. Stop looking at me funny, there's data to come...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, here's why I like OS X more:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has a native UNIX terminal which, in my experience, in most cases works like a standard Linux command line in terms of built in commands (by which I mean most things I find on the Internet can be copy-pasted into my terminal and work fine with minimal modification).&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;   You also have [Homebrew](http://brew.sh/), which allows you to easily&#xD;&#xA;   install things that aren't bundled with OS X - think `wget`, `htop`,&#xD;&#xA;   etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Because it's UNIX-based, lots of things just work where you would have to fiddle with them in Windows. Also, OS X plays much nicer with Git-type tools, and really any collaboration. I can't count how many times I've had to revert a change from a Windows user that adds strange linebreaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  These are all things that can be overcome with some tinkering... but it's still tinkering when you could be racking up billable hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I personally like it better. Things make more sense, but that could be because I haven't used Windows as much as most people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the price argument: I would argue that **OS X does not cost that much more than Windows**. I know this is radical, but hear me out. Let's look at resale prices on Windows machines from 2010 - see [this eBay search](http://www.ebay.com/sch/PC-Laptops-Netbooks-/177/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_nkw=2010&amp;_sop=13). That's for Windows laptops from 2010, five years ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm seeing ~$150-200 max unless you have an AlienWare laptop. [AlienWare machines are really expensive](https://www.google.com/search?q=alienware&amp;rct=j#q=alienware&amp;tbm=shop) and you probably won't be buying one for development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's look at [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). Outside of the for-parts machines (some of which still are selling for ***$300***), I'm seeing $500 to $700. Even some for-parts MacBooks are selling for more than Windows laptops from the same year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that some of these eBay links have expired, I didn't know eBay did that. I'll be trying to replace them with something firmer in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going through the first couple laptops on the Windows list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E6410 14.1&quot; i7/ 500GB/4GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6410-14-1-i7-500GB-4GB-Win7-Pro-no-Webcam-/181878676872?hash=item2a58d05d88) - sold for **$147.50**, original price from [this period Engadget article](http://www.engadget.com/2010/04/02/dell-latitude-e6410-e6510-finally-make-it-to-us/) was **$1750**, for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude e6400 Core 2 Duo 2.24Ghz, RAM 4GB, HDD 250GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-e6400-Core-2-Duo-2-24Ghz-RAM-4GB-HDD-250GB-Laptop-Office-2010-/111779024589?hash=item1a068c8ecd) was from 2008, but sold for **$89.99** with an [original price of **$1100**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-latitude-e6400/) for the base model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Latitude E4310 Intel Core i5 2.67GHz 2GB 160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E4310-Intel-Core-i5-2-67GHz-2GB-160GB-Windows-7-Pro-32bit-with-DVD-/141776000577?hash=item2102821641) sold for **$130** (only one bid), [original price ~£1,400.00](http://www.cnet.com/uk/products/dell-latitude-e4310/), which was [around **$2000** in 2010 USD](http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%C2%A31%2C400.00+in+USD+in+2010)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Lenovo IdeaPad Y560P 15.6&quot; Core i7/8GB Ram](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y560P-15-6-Core-i7-8GB-Ram-/161824488232?hash=item25ad7dbb28) sold for **$110** (18 bids), [original price **$2100**](http://www.cnet.com/au/products/lenovo-ideapad-y560/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [HP Mini 2140 10.1&quot; Notebook Intel Atom 1.6ghz, 1GB Ram,160GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Mini-2140-10-1-Notebook-Intel-Atom-1-6ghz-1GB-Ram-160GB-Win-7-Pro-Wifi-Cam-/262056227330?hash=item3d03c4b202) (from 2009) sold for **$69.99**, [original price **$630**](http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-2140-mini-note-series/). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - (Skipping for-parts MacBook Air that somehow got in that search)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Dell Studio 1745 Laptop With JBL Premium Sound, 17.3&quot; Screen](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Studio-1745-Laptop-With-JBL-Premium-Sound-17-3-Screen-Free-Shipping-/191696577181?hash=item2ca201a29d), sold for **$175**, [original price **$779**](http://www.cnet.com/products/dell-studio-s1745-3691mbu/) (looks like it's from late 2009)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could keep going, and you should to make an informed purchase decision, but doing this all manually is a lot of work. From those 6 most recently sold, there's an average drop of **$1272** over the five years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we look at the [2010 MacBook Pros](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=2010+macbook+pro&amp;_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;Release%2520Year=2010&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=58058&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmacbook+pro.TRS0&amp;_nkw=macbook+pro&amp;_sacat=58058). The first 6:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The first one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-Core-2-Duo-2-4GHz-4GB-250GB-13-MC374LL-A-/171944283569?hash=item2808ad8db1) sold for a &quot;best offer price&quot;, and I have no idea what that means. Skipping...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [MacBook Pro 13&quot; CUSTOM ORDER Laptop 2.66GHz-16GB RAM-1TB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEARLY-PERFECT-Apple-MacBook-Pro-13-CUSTOM-ORDER-Laptop-2-66GHz-16GB-RAM-1TB-HD-/231689863296?hash=item35f1cac080) sold for **$705.00**, [originally base model priced $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3), I'm going to add $500 to that since it looks like he's upgraded the RAM and such. So **$1699** originally. He probably has less money into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [15&quot; MacBook Pro](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macbook-pro-15-used-/271993832111?hash=item3f541882af), sold for $400, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [2010 Apple MacBook Pro 15.4&quot; Core i5, MC372LL/A Laptop, 12GB RAM, 750 HDD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-4-Core-i5-MC372LL-A-Laptop-12GB-RAM-750-HDD-/271991326641?hash=item3f53f247b1), sold for $512, [originally $1799](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.4-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3). I'm going to give him another $400 for the RAM and HDD upgrades he made to the machine, so **$2199**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro 15&quot; 2.53GHz i5, 4GB, 500GB](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-15-2-53GHz-i5-4GB-500GB-Office11-Adobe-CS6-Final-Cut-Pro-/171941147161?hash=item28087db219), sold for $790. Looks like a [base model version of this, $1999](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.53-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple MacBook Pro A1278 13.3&quot; Laptop - MC374LL/A](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1278-13-3-Laptop-MC374LL-A-April-2010-/181879801478?hash=item2a58e18686), sold for $700. Looks like it's [a base model of this, $1199](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apple Macbook Pro 13&quot;, 1TB Storage, 4GB RAM, 2.40GHz Intel Core 2 Duo](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Pro-13-1TB-Storage-4GB-RAM-2-40GHz-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Yosemite-/321873529056?hash=item4af12848e0), sold for $500. Looks like [one of these ($1199)](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2.4-aluminum-13-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html#macspecs3) with a giant hard drive. I'll give him $300 for that hard drive, so **$1499** originally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding up those six, I get **$1064** average loss over those five years. A couple notes on the data gathering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'd give a larger sample size if I thought it wouldn't make me go insane. If you want to do some research and add to the list, please do. I'll accept the edit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Still, this is a phenomenon I've been observing for years. MacBooks&#xD;&#xA;   simply hold their value better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I tried to be fairly generous with adding investments to the purchase price for people who upgraded their MacBooks. I didn't do that with Windows machines (didn't even take it into account, I always assumed the base model), and OS X still edged out Windows by a couple hundred dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Some of the Windows machines *were* from 2008/2009. I realize that, but I don't think it messed with the data that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resale prices on today's Windows machines may be higher in the future... but I don't think so. That's a decision you have to make.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the decision you have to make isn't about cost, but **how much you want to invest in a machine**. There *is* capital tied up in your laptop, and it's often more with OS X machines. That's a valid point against buying MacBooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing: I was assuming you're buying your machine new. Don't do that. I have bought my MacBooks used off Craigslist - a 2009 13&quot; Pro for $500 a few years back, and my current 2012 13&quot; for $800 a few years ago. [I could still get at least $500 out of it](http://www.ebay.com/sch/Computers-Tablets-Networking-/58058/i.html?_sac=1&amp;_sop=13&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3%7C4&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;LH_AllListings=1&amp;_from=R40&amp;_nkw=macbook%20pro&amp;_dcat=111422&amp;rt=nc&amp;Release%2520Year=2012&amp;_udlo&amp;_udhi&amp;Product%2520Family=MacBook%2520Pro&amp;Screen%2520Size=13in%252E). Standard disclaimers apply, Craigslist is creepy. Bring a friend and meet in public.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If Craigslist is too creepy for you (don't blame you), [buy a refurbished machine directly from Apple](http://www.apple.com/shop/browse/home/specialdeals/mac/macbook_pro). They're better than a new machine and have 10-25% discounts. I've bought a MacBook Air, iPad, and an iPod Touch from there, and haven't had an issue with any of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="272" RevisionGUID="cda10651-848e-44ec-9848-a831d35915eb" CreationDate="2015-09-25T08:18:03.973" UserId="8" Comment="added 680 characters in body" Text="I'd say you should choose a **Windows** platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows, in general, will give you a more flexible platform to work from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The vast majority of programs work with Windows (not that I have stats for this - but when looking for software, the most common download type seems to be for Windows)&#xD;&#xA;- It's dead easy to run a web server off a Windows platform: either Microsoft's IIS, or Apache using a WAMP stack will work fine. I run WampServer on my own computer.&#xD;&#xA;- If you can, get one with Windows 10. WinX now comes with some of the advanced features that a Mac has; as Adam mentions that you can view all open windows simultaneously, it's worth noting that X can do this too.&#xD;&#xA;- There is a much higher degree of compatibility with Windows in many areas than there is with Mac OS X.&#xD;&#xA;- You get flexibility in specification that a Macbook simply can't parallel; there are laptops designed so you can take them apart and change any component inside them.&#xD;&#xA;- As Adam rightly mentions, Windows is used in 99% of web development in the business world. If you get used to OS X, then you'll have to re-learn where everything is when you get a job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, everyone mentions that Windows is also the cheaper option - but it's a significant point for students, so it really is worth strong consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking for a concrete recommendation, I'd recommend my laptop, which is an [Acer Aspire E1-572](http://uk.pcmag.com/acer-e1-572-6870/4205/review/acer-aspire-e1-572-6870). (NB: the linked page doesn't quite reflect the laptop I have, but it's pretty close.) Quoting the label I've got in front of me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Intel Core i3-4010U (1.7 GHz, 3 MB L3 cache)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Intel HD Graphics 4400, up to 1792 MB Dynamic Video Memory&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 15.6&quot; HD LED LCD&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB DDR3 L Memory&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 1000 GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - DVD-Super Multi DL drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus a number of other, less relevant specs. It's not a massively powered machine, but it's certainly adequate for front-end development, which is what I use it for regularly. The lower power and spec also serves to reduce the price: I got mine for around £300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="c6151cd0-1e3e-45fc-8269-3655c54d7184" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:31:33.537" UserId="6" Text="I recently bought an [Apple Macbook Pro, 15&quot; Retina](http://www.apple.com/us-hed/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro) (with student discount and no sales tax) for $2300. Considering I got a pair of Beats headphones too which I plan on selling, I figure my total cost was $2200 for this machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a windows based laptop which is comparable to this? The easy to measure things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; retina quality screen (better than 1900x1200 resolution)&#xD;&#xA; - 512gb SSD (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - 16gb RAM (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated graphics card that is comparable/better&#xD;&#xA; - Comparable battery life (rMBP estimate is 9 hours normal use)&#xD;&#xA; - Roughly same weight or less (4.5 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also wanting the following, less easy to measure things (or less important things):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Similar build quality, the aluminum case is nice (I do not like plastic cases generally)&#xD;&#xA; - Trackpad quality that is comparable&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the pricepoint is less than $2200 for educational pricing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1522" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="c6151cd0-1e3e-45fc-8269-3655c54d7184" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:31:33.537" UserId="6" Text="Windows laptop with comparable specs to upgraded retina Macbook Pro 15&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1523" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="c6151cd0-1e3e-45fc-8269-3655c54d7184" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:31:33.537" UserId="6" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="441" RevisionGUID="cec83172-20bd-4355-b8f6-480faa8769ae" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:42:38.997" UserId="155" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning air flow within or around a piece of hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1525" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="441" RevisionGUID="cec83172-20bd-4355-b8f6-480faa8769ae" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:42:38.997" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 115" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="61" RevisionGUID="8f1e5e2c-0150-4cb2-ac29-b4d5abf5bfb1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:42:46.877" UserId="155" Comment="clarification" Text="Waterproofing is the process of making an object able to function when in contact with water (e.g., cameras, watches or mobile phones). Such items may be used in wet environments or under water to specified depths." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1527" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="61" RevisionGUID="8f1e5e2c-0150-4cb2-ac29-b4d5abf5bfb1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:42:46.877" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 116" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1529" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="c502b4d4-3fad-4c31-a016-f54e55a2df08" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:42:51.217" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="278" RevisionGUID="7f126abb-78e0-4bb2-92ee-7678cc8bcd34" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:02.947" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="NAS is an abbreviation for Network Attached Storage. It is a way of providing file-level access to storage on a network. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1531" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="278" RevisionGUID="7f126abb-78e0-4bb2-92ee-7678cc8bcd34" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:02.947" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 114" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="b3f34ac9-84d3-4e51-af48-8a6ec7a6f212" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:09.907" UserId="155" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="SMPS stands for Switched Mode Power Supply. For questions related to power supplies specific to desktop computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1533" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="168" RevisionGUID="b3f34ac9-84d3-4e51-af48-8a6ec7a6f212" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:09.907" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 119" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="445" RevisionGUID="3ddb3553-e87e-4e59-94b5-c3328e18ab09" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:20.073" UserId="155" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning if a piece of hardware is able to interact with external technologies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1535" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="445" RevisionGUID="3ddb3553-e87e-4e59-94b5-c3328e18ab09" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:20.073" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="443" RevisionGUID="4efd1508-d97c-43e7-af15-d8b72d6cf8b8" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:27.230" UserId="155" Comment="added 137 characters in body" Text="PoE stands for Power Over Ethernet. For questions related to hardware that receives both information and power through an Ethernet cable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1537" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="443" RevisionGUID="4efd1508-d97c-43e7-af15-d8b72d6cf8b8" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:43:27.230" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 118" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="451" RevisionGUID="a9933709-1bec-4606-9f9f-c08c63fa0535" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:50:29.957" UserId="6" Text="tl;dr: arm swing is noise compared to accuracy of GPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is there a GPS watch that somehow accounts for this to produce more accurate data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No, there is not (at least in your price range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is among others that to get that level of accuracy for GPS requires significantly more than the GPS locator can provide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  [The U.S. government is committed to providing GPS to the civilian community at the performance levels specified in the GPS Standard Positioning Service (SPS) Performance Standard. For example, the GPS signal in space will provide a &quot;worst case&quot; pseudorange accuracy of 7.8 meters at a 95% confidence level. (This is not the same as user accuracy; pseudorange is the distance from a GPS satellite to a receiver.)](http://www.gps.gov/systems/gps/performance/accuracy/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is possible the military, who are allowed multiple GPS channels could account for the noise associated with civilian GPS and create a watch this accurate. They may in fact have one. Probably not one you can purchase, however..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that for applications that do need this level of accuracy such as farming or surveying all have some level of supplemental signal (such as [RTK](http://www.mywayrtk.com/How_It_Works/)). These tools are all several orders of magnitude more than your $90 requirement - most are $1000-$10000 price range. They are also bulky and not likely to be portable. Many still have accuracy that is only in the ~10 inch range, too. If your arm swing is 2 feet their error is still nearly 50% of what you are wanting to account for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also observe that [not all running watches are created equally](http://fellrnr.com/wiki/GPS_Accuracy). I would suggest looking at this and picking one which has the best criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, onto my next point, which is instantaneous pace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The pace should be accurate to the second - I've noticed that my current watch only does this in multiples of five seconds (e.g. it will rounds 7:03 up to 7:05).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, keep in mind how pace is calculated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is almost assuredly not polling the GPS signal multiple times every second and calculating instantaneous updates every quarter second (or whatever). Because [GPS is a battery hog](http://www.itworld.com/article/2833266/mobile/why-gps-eats-so-much-battery-power--explained-by-a-google-engineer.html) to get lightweight devices it likely is polling at an interval. A friend of mine with a PhD in networking technology indicated that once/second with a GPS intensive app is probably a good rule of thumb. More kills battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets say you are running a 7 minute mile.  That's about 10 feet per second. Let's generously say that the accuracy of the GPS error is only +/- 3 meters (remember, 7.9 meters is the published accuracy at 95% confidence). This is a pretty significant improvement - a 7.9 meter circle vs a 3 meter circle. 3 meters is about 10 feet, and so this means that any calculation looks like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10 real feet traveled +/- 10 feet = 0-20 feet GPS traveled, in 1 second&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So clearly a 1-second pace doesn't make sense from a GPS perspective. Let's look at 5 feet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 50 real feet traveled +/- 10 feet = 40-60 feet GPS traveled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, this is better, but still not super accurate, even with a 5 second polling interval. Keep in mind this is assuming that the GPS accuracy is pretty good that meaningful and repeatable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's also consider your arm swing. At worst, your arm swing might be 2 feet linear distance - out of 40-50 feet traveled in the 5 second interval. This is a small error margin, perhaps 2/40 or about 5% maximum error. But the GPS error is still 25% of this scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If we consider the 1 second poll, the GPS error is 100% and arm swing is still only 25%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="452" RevisionGUID="99ed0eeb-0fbf-447a-848d-0a783866d7a1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:03:43.977" UserId="60" Text="Disclaimer: I do not own the following product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the [Dell XPS Ultrabook](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834300749) ([Amazon link](http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W)) that looks like it would fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a 15.6&quot; touchscreen with a resolution of 3200x1800 pixels. It has a 512GB SSD and 16GB RAM with 2GB GDDR5 RAM dedicated to the Nvidia GeForce GT 750M graphics card. Its battery is rated to last around 11 hours. The laptop weighs in at around 4 pounds. Since this is an Ultrabook, the build quality is going to be top of the line. The keyboard is also backlit. The cost of this device retails at $2,250 on Newegg and $2,300 on Amazon. Currently, you can get it at $2,138 on Newegg and $1,815 on Amazon. (All prices USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I do not own the device, I do not know some of the details about this device. While the battery is rated at 11 hours of use, a reviewer on Amazon said they were lucky to get 3 hours out of it. I also do not know if the body of the laptop is metal or plastic. The *color* is Silver Anodized Aluminum, but that doesn't tell you much. I also do not know how the trackpad compares to your MacBook. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="451" RevisionGUID="4247f98d-3901-4d18-a6e3-e16877148669" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:35:31.337" UserId="6" Comment="deleted 31 characters in body" Text="tl;dr: arm swing is noise compared to accuracy of GPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is there a GPS watch that somehow accounts for this to produce more accurate data?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No, there is not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is among others that to get that level of accuracy for GPS requires significantly more than the GPS locator can provide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  [The U.S. government is committed to providing GPS to the civilian community at the performance levels specified in the GPS Standard Positioning Service (SPS) Performance Standard. For example, the GPS signal in space will provide a &quot;worst case&quot; pseudorange accuracy of 7.8 meters at a 95% confidence level. (This is not the same as user accuracy; pseudorange is the distance from a GPS satellite to a receiver.)](http://www.gps.gov/systems/gps/performance/accuracy/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is possible the military, who are allowed multiple GPS channels could account for the noise associated with civilian GPS and create a watch this accurate. They may in fact have one. Probably not one you can purchase, however..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that for applications that do need this level of accuracy such as farming or surveying all have some level of supplemental signal (such as [RTK](http://www.mywayrtk.com/How_It_Works/)). These tools are all several orders of magnitude more than your $90 requirement - most are $1000-$10000 price range. They are also bulky and not likely to be portable. Many still have accuracy that is only in the ~10 inch range, too. If your arm swing is 2 feet their error is still nearly 50% of what you are wanting to account for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also observe that [not all running watches are created equally](http://fellrnr.com/wiki/GPS_Accuracy). I would suggest looking at this and picking one which has the best criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, onto my next point, which is instantaneous pace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The pace should be accurate to the second - I've noticed that my current watch only does this in multiples of five seconds (e.g. it will rounds 7:03 up to 7:05).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, keep in mind how pace is calculated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is almost assuredly not polling the GPS signal multiple times every second and calculating instantaneous updates every quarter second (or whatever). Because [GPS is a battery hog](http://www.itworld.com/article/2833266/mobile/why-gps-eats-so-much-battery-power--explained-by-a-google-engineer.html) to get lightweight devices it likely is polling at an interval. A friend of mine with a PhD in networking technology indicated that once/second with a GPS intensive app is probably a good rule of thumb. More kills battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets say you are running a 7 minute mile.  That's about 10 feet per second. Let's generously say that the accuracy of the GPS error is only +/- 3 meters (remember, 7.9 meters is the published accuracy at 95% confidence). This is a pretty significant improvement - a 7.9 meter circle vs a 3 meter circle. 3 meters is about 10 feet, and so this means that any calculation looks like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10 real feet traveled +/- 10 feet = 0-20 feet GPS traveled, in 1 second&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So clearly a 1-second pace doesn't make sense from a GPS perspective. Let's look at 5 feet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 50 real feet traveled +/- 10 feet = 40-60 feet GPS traveled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, this is better, but still not super accurate, even with a 5 second polling interval. Keep in mind this is assuming that the GPS accuracy is pretty good that meaningful and repeatable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's also consider your arm swing. At worst, your arm swing might be 2 feet linear distance - out of 40-50 feet traveled in the 5 second interval. This is a small error margin, perhaps 2/40 or about 5% maximum error. But the GPS error is still 25% of this scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If we consider the 1 second poll, the GPS error is 100% and arm swing is still only 25%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="453" RevisionGUID="3fed0611-a9be-420e-aaff-7443d53d13b1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T16:06:34.693" UserId="389" Text="I have a rather advanced use-case that I need a KVM-type device for, and I was wondering whether such a thing even existed.  I want a 3-PC setup; 2 desktops (PC1 and PC2) and 1 laptop dock (DOCK1).  I want to connect 2 monitors, 1 mouse, and 1 keyboard.  So far it's relatively straightforward, as I could just switch between the 3 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But here's the kicker; I'd like one mode to output PC1 video to screen1, extend DOCK1 video to screen2, and input keyboard and mouse to DOCK1.  I'd like another mode with that video setup, but inputting keyboard and mouse to PC1.  Basically I'd like to be able to switch between inputting to PC1/DOCK1, whilst continuing to be able to monitor each by outputting each one's video to one of the 2 monitors.  However I want another mode where I can just go dual-screen with PC1 and input keyboard and mouse to PC1, and another mode where I can go dual-screen with PC2 and control it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any KVM out there able to do this kind of thing?  I guess I'm probably looking for some kind of programmable KVM which allows me to specify, for each &quot;mode&quot;, which inputs are routed to which outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh and in terms of ports I want to use HDMI for video (or possibly DVI) and USB for peripherals; not VGA or PS/2." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="453" RevisionGUID="3fed0611-a9be-420e-aaff-7443d53d13b1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T16:06:34.693" UserId="389" Text="Advanced KVM operation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="453" RevisionGUID="3fed0611-a9be-420e-aaff-7443d53d13b1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T16:06:34.693" UserId="389" Text="&lt;mouse&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;kvm-switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="454" RevisionGUID="c13f4328-caaf-4137-9dfd-828f345e6962" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:54:56.553" UserId="57" Text="I have a [BlinkStick Square][1]. They have a large variety of [products][2] (including an enclosure for my Square that I just noticed). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![BlinkStick Square][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Square has 8 LEDs and each are [addressable individually][4]. The Square comes pre-assembled. There are other products that provide you with the parts so that you can build it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The API supports a [number of languages][5] (including [Python][6] and [Ruby][7]). You can also control it [remotely][8] by connecting to the BlinkStick web service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.blinkstick.com/products/blinkstick-square&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.blinkstick.com/products/overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9UG8.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://github.com/arvydas/blinkstick-python/wiki/BlinkStick-Pro%3A-Change-Color-of-a-Single-LED&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.blinkstick.com/help/api-implementations&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://github.com/arvydas/blinkstick-python&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://github.com/arvydas/blinkstick-ruby&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.blinkstick.com/help/control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1550" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="a022b0a2-c110-4edb-9f27-e29b663512e5" CreationDate="2015-09-25T22:28:38.567" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation, brand clarification" Text="I recently bought an [15&quot; MacBook Pro w/ Retina](http://www.apple.com/us-hed/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro) (with student discount and no sales tax) for $2300. Considering I got a pair of Beats headphones too which I plan on selling, I figure my total cost was $2200 for this machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a Windows-based laptop which is comparable to this? The easy-to-measure things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; Retina-quality screen (better than 1900x1200 resolution)&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SSD (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated graphics card that is comparable/better&#xD;&#xA; - Comparable battery life (rMBP estimate is 9 hours with normal use)&#xD;&#xA; - Roughly same weight or less (4.5 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also wanting the following, less easy to measure things (or less important things):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Similar build quality, the aluminum case is nice (I do not like plastic cases generally)&#xD;&#xA; - Trackpad quality that is comparable&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the pricepoint is less than $2200 for educational pricing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1551" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="a022b0a2-c110-4edb-9f27-e29b663512e5" CreationDate="2015-09-25T22:28:38.567" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation, brand clarification" Text="Windows laptop with comparable specs to upgraded 15&quot; MacBook Pro Retina?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1554" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="453" RevisionGUID="f2458b71-06c0-4a94-8b66-e2028f7e0046" CreationDate="2015-09-25T23:19:13.390" UserId="155" Comment="changed relevant tag" Text="&lt;mouse&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="340bb4a2-4098-4786-8331-ab41ac160c95" CreationDate="2015-09-26T06:51:13.480" UserId="253" Text="I'm looking for a HDTV capable of playing [HEVC h.265][1] encoded videos from usb/pen drive. Most of the HDTVs support h.264 standard but I could find any playing h.265 standard. My price range is at most $1800 and it should not be an Android TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More over it would be better if it has the below features (not necessarily but better if they are present)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. USB support (obviously), multiple USB ports.&#xD;&#xA; 2. HDMI support with multiple HDMI ports.&#xD;&#xA; 3. LED display.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Ethernet/wifi support.&#xD;&#xA; 5. 4K resolution class.&#xD;&#xA; 6. 32 inches or higher.&#xD;&#xA; 7. 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X265" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1557" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="340bb4a2-4098-4786-8331-ab41ac160c95" CreationDate="2015-09-26T06:51:13.480" UserId="253" Text="HDTV with HEVC (h.265 / x.265) support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1558" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="340bb4a2-4098-4786-8331-ab41ac160c95" CreationDate="2015-09-26T06:51:13.480" UserId="253" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="405" RevisionGUID="d23d3866-c050-41fa-bbec-e608ae56109a" CreationDate="2015-09-26T11:01:59.960" UserId="125" Comment="I added some info on Raspbery Pi" Text="The Raspberry Pi is a $35 single board DIY computer for hobbyists. It was originally meant to be used to teach children how to program on a cheap and simple to use platform. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tag can be used for Raspberry Pi hardware. Any other questions should be asked on the Raspberry Pi Stack Exchange website." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1560" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="405" RevisionGUID="d23d3866-c050-41fa-bbec-e608ae56109a" CreationDate="2015-09-26T11:01:59.960" Comment="Proposed by 125 approved by 155, 8 edit id of 121" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="0baaabca-09e5-4e23-9e93-4227fc1bb8b1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T17:50:15.613" UserId="396" Text="Good evening everyone, I want to create a USB stick with OS inside it that can boot from any kind of computer and has hardware encryption. I need suggestion on performances, APIs to control the encryption hardware and so on... Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1563" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="0baaabca-09e5-4e23-9e93-4227fc1bb8b1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T17:50:15.613" UserId="396" Text="Hardware encryption USB stick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1564" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="0baaabca-09e5-4e23-9e93-4227fc1bb8b1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T17:50:15.613" UserId="396" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1565" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="5605f077-0d20-4dca-8ee8-685bad06d0c8" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:42:00.337" UserId="396" Comment="added 678 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Good evening everyone, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*** Edit ***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My goal is to find an USB stick with hardware encryption, in order to access the api's and unlock the partition with a password. The difference between a normal USB stick with hardware encryption is that the pen drive should be unlocked when the computer boot, in order to start the OS inside the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have to be able to boot from any computer, and use the stick as a &quot;portable guest computer&quot;, I need a minimum size of 64 GB, and good read/write performances, so USB3 should be a good starting point I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part is that I need a pen drive that will let me use the encryption apis, in order to create and modify from the OS the password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a budget for this phase, I just want to create a sort of prototype, test it and try to hack it in order to see if can be a valid encryption solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I have to be more specific let me know!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1566" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="5605f077-0d20-4dca-8ee8-685bad06d0c8" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:42:00.337" UserId="396" Comment="added 678 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;os&gt;&lt;api&gt;&lt;usb3&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="506b76f2-fa03-4951-933f-e8f152beb9be" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:47:44.817" UserId="54" Text="Is it worth to pay £30 more for Samsung 850 Pro (~ £100 vs £70)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 850 Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Samsung Triple Core MEX. Memory: Samsung 40nm MLC V-NAND&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 498 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 506 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 40.2 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 139 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crucial MX200:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Marvell 88SS9189. Flash Memory: Micron 16nm MLC.&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 491 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 373 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 25.9 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 67.8 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Data source][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is more, Samsung offers a better warranty conditions (10 Years or 150TBW) while Crucial has limited three-year warranty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB-vs-Crucial-MX200-250GB/2385vs3196" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="506b76f2-fa03-4951-933f-e8f152beb9be" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:47:44.817" UserId="54" Text="Samsung 850 Pro vs Crucial MX200 (~250GB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="506b76f2-fa03-4951-933f-e8f152beb9be" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:47:44.817" UserId="54" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="6de0bdcd-a9ae-4f37-b82a-ccb9240fddc6" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" UserId="24" Comment="Making the title more expressive, cleanup, nice try to save to question" Text="My goal is to find an USB stick with hardware encryption, in order to access the api's and unlock the partition with a password. The difference between a normal USB stick with hardware encryption is that the pen drive should be unlocked when the computer boot, in order to start the OS inside the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have to be able to boot from any computer, and use the stick as a &quot;portable guest computer&quot;, I need a minimum size of 64 GB, and good read/write performances, so USB3 should be a good starting point I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part is that I need a pen drive that will let me use the encryption apis, in order to create and modify from the OS the password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a budget for this phase, I just want to create a sort of prototype, test it and try to hack it in order to see if can be a valid encryption solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1571" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="6de0bdcd-a9ae-4f37-b82a-ccb9240fddc6" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" UserId="24" Comment="Making the title more expressive, cleanup, nice try to save to question" Text="Bootable hardware encrypted USB stick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1572" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="6de0bdcd-a9ae-4f37-b82a-ccb9240fddc6" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by -1 edit id of 123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="1e6afb8b-77be-472e-a46f-568fd29cae81" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" UserId="155" Comment="major clarifications, punctuation and grammar, removed unnecessary parts, tags" Text="My goal is to find a USB stick with hardware encryption in order to access the APIs and unlock the partition with a password. The difference between a normal USB stick with hardware encryption is that the pen drive should be unlocked when the computer boots in order to start the OS inside the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have to be able to boot from any computer and use the stick as a &quot;portable guest computer,&quot; I need a minimum size of 64GB and good read/write performances, so USB3 should be a good starting point I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part is that I need a pen drive that will let me use the encryption APIs in order to create and modify from the OS the password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a budget for this phase. I just want to create a sort of prototype, test it and try to hack it in order to see if it can be a valid encryption solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1574" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="1e6afb8b-77be-472e-a46f-568fd29cae81" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" UserId="155" Comment="major clarifications, punctuation and grammar, removed unnecessary parts, tags" Text="Bootable hardware-encrypted USB stick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1575" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="1e6afb8b-77be-472e-a46f-568fd29cae81" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:27:16.703" UserId="155" Comment="major clarifications, punctuation and grammar, removed unnecessary parts, tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;api&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="20041d85-c494-47f3-96df-e824807e086a" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:36:13.203" UserId="65" Text="A number of years ago, after learning about RMM (some platforms also use the term IPMI, though technically that may or may not include RMM), I really wanted it for home, but the only option I could find was several hundred dollars and I can't even find that one anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For those who are not familiar with remote management, it is built into most server platforms and allows remote users (after authentication) to access the system in a manner similar to remote desktop, but without an operating system. The benefit of RMM is that it allows you to install or reinstall an operating system with a virtual CD/DVD drive and power-cycle the machine remotely. It's very handy for restarting servers whose operating systems have stopped responding. It also allows you to start an alternate operating system on a dual-boot system, or boot from an alternative device like a live CD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most server technologies seem to get cheaper and cheaper and eventually find their way into home systems, but I haven't seen any progress in this area. Are there any add-on RMM devices for home use? Or maybe just a home server that supports it (home=inexpensive and *quiet*)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1578" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="20041d85-c494-47f3-96df-e824807e086a" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:36:13.203" UserId="65" Text="Home Remote Management Module (RMM)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1579" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="20041d85-c494-47f3-96df-e824807e086a" CreationDate="2015-09-26T20:36:13.203" UserId="65" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1580" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="96263640-805a-4e8c-92ce-5b8e8aa100a5" CreationDate="2015-09-26T21:09:09.693" UserId="65" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="A number of years ago, after learning about [IPMI](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intelligent_Platform_Management_Interface) (also previously known as RMM), I really wanted it for home, but the only option I could find was several hundred dollars and I can't even find that one anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For those who are not familiar with IPMI, it is built into most server platforms and allows remote users (after authentication) to access the system in a manner similar to remote desktop, but without an operating system. The benefit of IPMI is that it allows you to install or reinstall an operating system with a virtual CD/DVD drive and power-cycle the machine remotely. It's very handy for restarting servers whose operating systems have stopped responding. It also allows you to start an alternate operating system on a dual-boot system, or boot from an alternative device like a live CD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most server technologies seem to get cheaper and cheaper and eventually find their way into home systems, but I haven't seen any progress in this area. Are there any add-on IPMI devices for home use? Or maybe just a home server that supports it (home=inexpensive and *quiet*)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1581" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="96263640-805a-4e8c-92ce-5b8e8aa100a5" CreationDate="2015-09-26T21:09:09.693" UserId="65" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="Home System Remote Management (IPMI)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="7f2e0aa6-af66-4e2e-a804-e71f15798ffb" CreationDate="2015-09-27T00:05:33.870" UserId="211" Text="I'm planning to get a new (2nd hand / refurbished) system for rendering large Povray scenes. I'm using very large bitmaps as bump map and colormap. I'll usually be running multiple povray processes at a time to utilize more processor power (A large portion of the render time is used by single threaded parsing). At peak moments the memory usage will be above 32Gig so I'm aiming at 48Gigs of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could choose between a HP Z600 or Z800 with both have almost the same specs (dual Xeon 5570, 48Gig) except for the memory speed. The Z800 has 1333Mz memory and is 200Euro more expensive. How much difference would it make for my workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1583" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="7f2e0aa6-af66-4e2e-a804-e71f15798ffb" CreationDate="2015-09-27T00:05:33.870" UserId="211" Text="1066Mhz VS 1333Mz memory speed, how much will it impact a PovRay workload" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1584" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="7f2e0aa6-af66-4e2e-a804-e71f15798ffb" CreationDate="2015-09-27T00:05:33.870" UserId="211" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="802c3e93-03ca-4c40-be03-fb5c558e4c75" CreationDate="2015-09-27T00:54:08.783" UserId="65" Comment="added 466 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'd like to have a system at home to control my computer so I can boot it to different operating systems remotely and power-cycle it. Rack-mount servers have had this capability for years ([IPMI](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intelligent_Platform_Management_Interface)). A few years ago I found an external system that you could plug in the computer power, video, keyboard, mouse, and network that would allow you to fully control the computer remotely over the network (just like IPMI, but for any PC), but IIRC that one was $200+ and I can't even find that one anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a device that transfers the following over the network to a remote computer for complete control from anywhere with an internet connection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * video&#xD;&#xA; * keyboard&#xD;&#xA; * mouse&#xD;&#xA; * power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it must be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * quiet (for home use)&#xD;&#xA; * less than $100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * CD/DVD drive remote emulation (mount image from remote computer)&#xD;&#xA; * General USB devices (plug device into controlling computer and use remotely)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternative solutions I'm already familiar with that don't fit the bill and why:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Remote Desktop and VNC** do some of this, but cannot control power remotely, and can't function without the OS running, so they don't allow remote reboot to a different operating system or remote reboot when a system is not responding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Smart Power Switches](http://www.amazon.com/Ankuoo-Automation-Android-Smartphones-Tablets/dp/B00NAX2GVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1443315123&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Ankuoo+Neo)** will allow remote power cycling but still won't allow selection of a dual-boot operating system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1586" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="802c3e93-03ca-4c40-be03-fb5c558e4c75" CreationDate="2015-09-27T00:54:08.783" UserId="65" Comment="added 466 characters in body; edited title" Text="Home Computer Remote Control (IPMI)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="462" RevisionGUID="e03ed4fe-529b-49ad-a5b9-330db1d821e5" CreationDate="2015-09-27T06:36:10.507" UserId="241" Text="A general rule of thumb is that a 100% increase in memory speed corresponds to a 5% increase in overall performance.  This is because memory access is slow relative to the CPU, so CPUs and programs are designed to minimize memory access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My experience with POV-Ray bears this out: overclocking the RAM/FSB of my computer from 266 MHz to 333 MHz resulted in benchmarks taking about 1% less time -- though as you can probably tell from the memory speeds involved, this was ten years ago." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1592" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="457" RevisionGUID="f1056c79-c253-4a0d-863a-9657008d9090" CreationDate="2015-09-27T11:29:13.250" UserId="396" Comment="added 745 characters in body" Text="My goal is to find a USB stick with hardware encryption in order to access the APIs and unlock the partition with a password. The difference between a normal USB stick with hardware encryption is that the pen drive should be unlocked when the computer boots in order to start the OS inside the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have to be able to boot from any computer and use the stick as a &quot;portable guest computer,&quot; I need a minimum size of 64GB and good read/write performances, so USB3 should be a good starting point I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part is that I need a pen drive that will let me use the encryption APIs in order to create and modify from the OS the password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a budget for this phase. I just want to create a sort of prototype, test it and try to hack it in order to see if it can be a valid encryption solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*** EDIT 2 ***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system will work in this way, it's not an hypothesis or a project. We have already done something similar with Software encryption, but we need something more secure (that's why I'm looking for hardware encryption):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) The computer boots and there will be a password input then two passwords will be available:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.a) First password -&gt; login into the OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.b) Wipe password -&gt; destroy everything&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The key needs 2 partitions, one for the system restore and one for the OS. Me and some other people are working on the kernel in order to make it bootable everywhere with multiple OS's (linux, Windows 10 mostly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For security purposes we need a very specific hardware with AES 256bit hardware encryption and so on" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1593" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="47ed0252-3da9-4226-bffa-7b9b4c860c8c" CreationDate="2015-09-27T14:58:44.727" UserId="54" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="Is it worth to pay £30 more for Samsung 850 Pro (~ £100 vs £70)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 850 Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Samsung Triple Core MEX. Memory: Samsung 40nm MLC V-NAND&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 498 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 506 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 40.2 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 139 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crucial MX200:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Marvell 88SS9189. Flash Memory: Micron 16nm MLC&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 491 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 373 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 25.9 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 67.8 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Data source][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is more, Samsung offers better warranty conditions (10 Years or 150TBW) while Crucial has limited three-year warranty. On the other hand, most people don't keep a storage drive for 10 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Write Latency seems to be a problem for Crucial:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB-vs-Crucial-MX200-250GB/2385vs3196&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5qYbO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1594" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="91c29954-32b9-426e-8e37-5ddd980fac2a" CreationDate="2015-09-27T17:18:18.930" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="I'm planning to get a new (2nd hand / refurbished) system for rendering large POV-Ray scenes. I'm using very large bitmaps as bump map and colormap. I'll usually be running multiple POV-Ray processes at a time to utilize more processor power. (A large portion of the render time is used by single threaded parsing.) At peak moments the memory usage will be above 32GB so I'm aiming at 48GB of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could choose between a HP Z600 or Z800 with both have almost the same specs (dual Xeon 5570, 48GB) except for the memory speed. The Z800 has 1333Mz memory and is 200Euro more expensive. How much difference would it make for my workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1595" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="91c29954-32b9-426e-8e37-5ddd980fac2a" CreationDate="2015-09-27T17:18:18.930" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="1066Mhz vs. 1333MHz memory speed: how much will it impact a POV-Ray workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1596" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="91c29954-32b9-426e-8e37-5ddd980fac2a" CreationDate="2015-09-27T17:18:18.930" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 54, 211 edit id of 124" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="f1d82527-c3ea-49a0-a86d-24cc0689e01a" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:48:38.507" UserId="54" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="Is it worth to pay £30 more for Samsung 850 Pro (~ £100 vs £70)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectatins:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - speeding up system boot (Linux &amp; Windows)&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Samsung 850 Pro:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Samsung Triple Core MEX. Memory: Samsung 40nm MLC V-NAND&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 498 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 506 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 40.2 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 139 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Crucial MX200:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Marvell 88SS9189. Flash Memory: Micron 16nm MLC&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 491 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 373 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 25.9 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 67.8 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Data source][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is more, Samsung offers better warranty conditions (10 Years or 150TBW) while Crucial has limited three-year warranty. On the other hand, most people don't keep a storage drive for 10 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Write Latency seems to be a problem for Crucial:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB-vs-Crucial-MX200-250GB/2385vs3196&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5qYbO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1600" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="6f9ad964-4c87-4693-917e-b6fe69363b12" CreationDate="2015-09-27T19:09:28.897" UserId="54" Comment="added 131 characters in body" Text="Is it worth to pay £30 more for Samsung 850 Pro (~ £100 vs £70)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectatins:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - speeding up system boot (Linux &amp; Windows)&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rarely do video edit. It is mainly about reducing the compile cycle time and work smoothly on multiple files simultaneously. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Samsung 850 Pro:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Samsung Triple Core MEX. Memory: Samsung 40nm MLC V-NAND&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 498 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 506 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 40.2 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 139 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Crucial MX200:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Controller: Marvell 88SS9189. Flash Memory: Micron 16nm MLC&#xD;&#xA; - Read: 491 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - Write: 373 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Read: 25.9 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - 4K Write: 67.8 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Data source][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is more, Samsung offers better warranty conditions (10 Years or 150TBW) while Crucial has limited three-year warranty. On the other hand, most people don't keep a storage drive for 10 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Write Latency seems to be a problem for Crucial:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB-vs-Crucial-MX200-250GB/2385vs3196&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5qYbO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="b99c9f8d-8691-4c31-932d-47321044c3f9" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:25:08.127" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 739 characters in body; edited title" Text="What would you recommend to choose? I was thinking about Samsung 850 Pro and Crucial MX200 but every suggestion would be appreciated. 250 GB seems to be fine for me (I have one another 1TB hdd).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectatins:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - read &gt; 300 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - write &gt; 150 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rarely do video edit. It is mainly about reducing the compile cycle time and work smoothly on multiple files simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1602" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="b99c9f8d-8691-4c31-932d-47321044c3f9" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:25:08.127" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 739 characters in body; edited title" Text="250 GB SSD for programming cheaper than ~£100?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1603" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="49576708-79b3-4ee1-8aef-aab72de02f7f" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:33:47.310" UserId="54" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="What would you recommend to choose? I was thinking about Samsung 850 Pro and Crucial MX200 but every suggestion would be appreciated. 250 GB seems to be fine for me (I have one another 1TB hdd).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectatins:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - sequential read &gt; 300 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - sequential write &gt; 150 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rarely do video edit. It is mainly about reducing the compile cycle time and work smoothly on multiple files simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1604" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="0c672171-929b-4902-85a6-d0a69fc515cb" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:41:42.460" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation and unit correction" Text="I'm planning to get a new (2nd-hand/refurbished) system for rendering large POV-Ray scenes. I'm using very large bitmaps as bump map and colormap. I'll usually be running multiple POV-Ray processes at a time to utilize more processor power. (A large portion of the render time is used by single threaded parsing.) At peak moments the memory usage will be above 32GB so I'm aiming at 48GB of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could choose between a HP Z600 or Z800 with both have almost the same specs (dual Xeon 5570, 48GB) except for the memory speed. The Z800 has 1333MHz memory and is €200 more expensive. How much difference would it make for my workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1605" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="460" RevisionGUID="0c672171-929b-4902-85a6-d0a69fc515cb" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:41:42.460" UserId="155" Comment="minor punctuation and unit correction" Text="1066MHz vs. 1333MHz memory speed: how much will it impact a POV-Ray workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="465" RevisionGUID="289a1f25-7400-4533-a03c-859c9857e0e2" CreationDate="2015-09-28T03:11:57.163" UserId="404" Text="[Asus UX501][1] is a solid 15&quot; laptop that can be compared with Macbook Pro retina 15&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6 inch, 3840 x 2160 px resolution, IGZO IPS, touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Haswell Core i7-4720HQ CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GeForce GTX 960M 4GB GDDR5 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;   DDR3 (8 GB soldered, 1 x 8 GB DIMM)&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB PCIe SSD (M.2 PCIe 80 mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Zenbook UX501 is available in the US for $1499.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ultrabookreview.com/7032-asus-zenbook-nx501/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="466" RevisionGUID="c103efcd-e80c-4973-85d6-3408fade9552" CreationDate="2015-09-28T08:19:46.680" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1624" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="467" RevisionGUID="2d48f265-04e9-4542-af38-e5fe066b706a" CreationDate="2015-09-28T08:19:46.680" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1625" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="467" RevisionGUID="4ea6542e-fb2e-45c3-90fd-2d06ba80a961" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:11:59.623" UserId="155" Comment="added 105 characters in body" Text="For questions related to partial or full computing systems embedded in a tiny device such as a USB stick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1626" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="467" RevisionGUID="4ea6542e-fb2e-45c3-90fd-2d06ba80a961" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:11:59.623" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 214 edit id of 126" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="468" RevisionGUID="01f1128c-7063-465e-ac0c-59258bfe38eb" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:56:25.947" UserId="128" Text="&lt;sup&gt;This is a post for my brother. Don't blame me for the non-sense!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a laptop for school. Here is the kind of functionality that I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Play a few games: such as Minecraft. Somewhat graphics intensive.&#xD;&#xA;- Video Editing: He makes videos on YouTube. Even I don't know what they're about.&#xD;&#xA;- Surfing the web: He plays YouTube videos in the background and never closes his tabs. Bugs me all the time when he asks me why his computer his slow...&#xD;&#xA;- Decently fast, hopefully shouldn't lag&#xD;&#xA;- Should look decent. Nothing like burnt plastic (that's what his computer looks like right now)&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under 400 Canadian Dollars. If it works well, we may be able to go upward of about 100 dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not being a techie guy, but could you recommend a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1630" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="468" RevisionGUID="01f1128c-7063-465e-ac0c-59258bfe38eb" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:56:25.947" UserId="128" Text="Laptop for school" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1631" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="468" RevisionGUID="01f1128c-7063-465e-ac0c-59258bfe38eb" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:56:25.947" UserId="128" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="469" RevisionGUID="fb6b3336-d1e5-4e5e-8fc8-849ae0557f7b" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:59:05.267" UserId="45" Text="With the current [IoT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_of_Things) trend, there are plenty of scenarios that make use of a low-profile, low-power, connected computing device, the best known being the [Raspberry Pi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi). What about security?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suppose I have a device in an environment that isn't physically secure, but I need to store some confidential data on it. The data volume is too large for a smartcard. What hardware platform would offer some tamper resistance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Computing power of the same order of magnitude as a Raspberry Pi&#xD;&#xA;* at least 512 MB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;* USB or Ethernet connectivity&#xD;&#xA;* Tamper-resistant key storage and secure boot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at a fairly low point on the security/cost price point. Let's say less than $100 — not an [HSM](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware_security_module). But it should offer some security against a casual attacker. With a Raspberry Pi, it's trivial to pull out the SD card and extract the data at one's leisure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a similar board at this price point where dumping the requires at least unsoldering the RAM or the flash memory? What about a higher level of security — what's the cheapest device that would require probing inside the package? (Assume no software vulnerability.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that combining an unsecure device with a smartcard does not meet the security requirements, since the card has no way to know whether it's unlocking the legitimate device or the attacker's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a one-off use, not a mass production run.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1633" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="469" RevisionGUID="fb6b3336-d1e5-4e5e-8fc8-849ae0557f7b" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:59:05.267" UserId="45" Text="Secure IoT device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1634" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="469" RevisionGUID="fb6b3336-d1e5-4e5e-8fc8-849ae0557f7b" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:59:05.267" UserId="45" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;&lt;embedded&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1635" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="6534158f-6126-47a1-87ee-6d10a4121042" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:33:31.913" UserId="45" Comment="laptop and desktop are completely different matters here" Text="External fan for over-heating laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1636" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="6534158f-6126-47a1-87ee-6d10a4121042" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:33:31.913" UserId="45" Comment="laptop and desktop are completely different matters here" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ventilation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1637" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="324" RevisionGUID="6534158f-6126-47a1-87ee-6d10a4121042" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:33:31.913" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 60, 128 edit id of 127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="352" RevisionGUID="fabab775-6fa0-4e2a-b1eb-44eac57d5cd2" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:41:59.690" UserId="45" Comment="English improvements" Text="You can use iSCSI to connect your SATA drive over the network.&#xD;&#xA;AoE is faster but unsecure.&#xD;&#xA;Both technologies use an exclusive link and cannot be shared to more than one computer at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your Gigabit network is OK. However beware of cheap switches that handles a low number of packets per seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are SAN technologies: you share a storage device over the network. That tech is the fastest one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to share to more than one computer at a time then you need a NAS technology. You share a &quot;folder&quot; which can be the root of your hard drive (`c:\` under Windows or `/` under Unix). However it's a lot slower... like Windows file sharing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some NAS have both worlds inside them. For best performance you need a high quality one like [Synology][1] for your hard drive part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side: any modern PC can connect to it in any way possible: Windows XP onwards and recent Linux (and easily versions from 10 years ago).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS115j#spec" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1639" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="352" RevisionGUID="fabab775-6fa0-4e2a-b1eb-44eac57d5cd2" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:41:59.690" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 60, 155 edit id of 128" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="468" RevisionGUID="437e7f13-d4bf-419a-b443-8ef1da528f69" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:48:21.913" UserId="128" Comment="added 368 characters in body" Text="&lt;sup&gt;This is a post for my brother. Don't blame me for the non-sense!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a laptop for school. Here is the kind of functionality that I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Play a few games: such as Minecraft. Somewhat graphics intensive.&#xD;&#xA;- Video Editing: He makes videos on YouTube. Even I don't know what they're about.&#xD;&#xA;- Surfing the web: He plays YouTube videos in the background and never closes his tabs. Bugs me all the time when he asks me why his computer his slow...&#xD;&#xA;- Decently fast, hopefully shouldn't lag&#xD;&#xA;- Should look decent. Nothing like burnt plastic (that's what his computer looks like right now)&#xD;&#xA;- Around 13-14 inches, he will be taking it to school and a 13/14 inch will probably work best. This is flexible: 15 inches will probably work fine, but 13 or 14 is the preferred choice&#xD;&#xA;- Probably windows, cause Apple is great at ripping people off nowadays... The version probably doesn't matter anyway since most computers come with the latest OS anyway (I think)&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under 400 Canadian Dollars. If it works well, we may be able to go upward of about 100 dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not being a techie guy, but could you recommend a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="310" RevisionGUID="16a09d37-6a5d-4888-9460-3f685891c378" CreationDate="2015-09-29T03:14:26.313" UserId="155" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="For questions about the general performance of a certain type of hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1643" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="310" RevisionGUID="16a09d37-6a5d-4888-9460-3f685891c378" CreationDate="2015-09-29T03:14:26.313" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 8, 57 edit id of 79" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="468" RevisionGUID="f90694d5-eecc-48b5-908a-28f31e34bf6c" CreationDate="2015-09-29T03:19:46.287" UserId="57" Comment="Removed a lot of extra information about family relations and unknown activities" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for school. Here is the kind of functionality that I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Play a few games: such as Minecraft. Somewhat graphics intensive.&#xD;&#xA;- Video Editing to post to YouTube. &#xD;&#xA;- Surfing the web: Play YouTube videos in the background and leave tabs open with minimal performance impact&#xD;&#xA;- Decently fast, hopefully shouldn't lag&#xD;&#xA;- Should look decent. Nothing like burnt plastic &#xD;&#xA;- Around 13-14 inches. It will will be taken it to school and a 13/14 inch will probably work best. This is flexible: 15 inches will probably work fine, but 13 or 14 is the preferred choice&#xD;&#xA;- Probably Windows. The version doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under 400 Canadian Dollars. If it works well, we may be able to go upward of about 100 dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you recommend a laptop that meets this criteria?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="470" RevisionGUID="a6cc8833-c32b-4e8d-8483-393c4eb97300" CreationDate="2015-09-29T05:15:22.213" UserId="262" Text="SDDs are quite conspicuous when it comes to quality and performance. Capacity, read/write times are made very clear so you can buy what you need. Any further optimisation will come down to your OS, and they're usually pretty good. 250 GB is more than I need for programming but if you think you need that then go for it. Depending on the size of the project, read write times are usually less of an issue since your OS will cache it anyway. This prevents constant read writes to your SSD and makes use of faster cache storage eg. RAM. If your project size is larger than the capacity of RAM your OS is dedicating to your project then it can become important. However if you're constantly recompiling entire large projects, you probably don't need to be and should adapt your programming environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those SDDs offer 535MB MB/s write and 540MB/s / 370MB/s read which is more than you're asking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="465" RevisionGUID="008f079b-ef1e-4d88-890f-63aa9f9934d9" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:07:25.813" UserId="404" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="[Asus UX501][1] is a solid 15&quot; laptop that can be compared with Macbook Pro retina 15&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6 inch, 3840 x 2160 px resolution, IGZO IPS, touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Haswell Core i7-4720HQ CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GeForce GTX 960M 4GB GDDR5 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;   DDR3 (8 GB soldered, 1 x 8 GB DIMM)&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB PCIe SSD (M.2 PCIe 80 mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure about the trackpad quality, but it does have aluminium case and backlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Zenbook UX501 is available in the US for $1499.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ultrabookreview.com/7032-asus-zenbook-nx501/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="471" RevisionGUID="02b91c27-deff-4f01-b088-9958ca759bf5" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:27:45.703" UserId="45" Text="With these fairly low requirements, any of the mid-range ARM boards would fit, so you might as well go for a [Raspberry Pi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi) by default. (Model 2, the earlier models aren't worth the slightly lower price.) The reference price for just the board is $35, plus a power supply gets you &lt;$50. Some relevant characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4 USB2 ports (keyboard, mouse, external drive, 1 spare or wifi)&#xD;&#xA;* 100 MB Ethernet — on the USB bus, so not ideal for heavy duty storage server, but ok for downloading stuff over a typical home Internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;* Jack and HDMI audio output.&#xD;&#xA;* Lower power consumption than the external hard disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU is not nearly as fast as the latest Intel offering, obviously, but it's enough to run ordinary Ruby programs and do C compilations. (I wouldn't do big C++ or Java compilations though, but more than the CPU, the limiting factor is that there's only 1 GB of RAM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is well under budget, you might consider a higher-end ARM board. 64-bit ARM boards (ARMv8) within your budget are starting to appear. (Of course, that's if you want 64-bit for some reason, not if you specifically need x86_64.) There's at least [HiKey](https://www.96boards.org/products/ce/hikey/) board is attempting to be a [reference 64-bit board](https://www.linux.com/news/embedded-mobile/mobile-linux/810613-linaro-launches-96boards-sbc-standard-and-first-armv8-board). [It has](http://www.cnx-software.com/2015/02/09/hikey-board-64-bit-arm-development-board/) a 1.2 GHz Cortex-A53, built-in USB2 and wifi, HDMI, 4 GB of onboard flash memory. There's also the cheaper [Dragonboard 410C](https://parts.arrow.com/item/detail/arrow-development-tools/dragonboard410c?utm_source=product-page&amp;utm_medium=96boards&amp;utm_term=organic&amp;utm_content=dragonboard40c&amp;utm_campaign=dragonboard410c-arrow#GGMR), with 8 GB of onboard flash, 4 USB ports and wifi. Unfortunately both have only 1 GB of RAM, at which point there are few benefits 64-bit CPU (there can still be benefits from other architectural improvements such as extra registers and cryptographic accelerators). I can't seem to find an affordable 64-bit board with 2 GB or 4 GB of RAM. You may want to start out with a 32-bit, 1 GB board now and use the rest of the price for a 64-bit board in a year or so if you find the need.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1651" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="472" RevisionGUID="92e57563-5004-4ba5-a709-364f1f3bd5f8" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:34:19.500" UserId="155" Text="I've been focusing on my computer's video and performance so much that I forgot about audio quality, which is surprising because I'm somewhat of an audiophile. So, I'm in the market for a sound card with at least these specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't want at all:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a sound card in an external enclosure (or one that includes external parts)&#xD;&#xA;- FireWire&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum price I'll pay right now is $75. I wish I could bump this up to the hundreds, but, alas, money is tight." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1652" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="472" RevisionGUID="92e57563-5004-4ba5-a709-364f1f3bd5f8" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:34:19.500" UserId="155" Text="What is a cost-effective sound card for under $75?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1653" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="472" RevisionGUID="92e57563-5004-4ba5-a709-364f1f3bd5f8" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:34:19.500" UserId="155" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="6c869243-3ca6-4e37-b6a1-99dc37a94ca7" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:52:21.947" UserId="409" Text="I require a cheap and small computer to act as the monitor of a webcam-microscope. The computer must be able to display the output of the USB webcam microscope with as low a time delay as possible (&lt;50ms delay) and display the output on a monitor with a wired connection (HDMI, DVI or VGA). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer, USB microscope and monitor are intended to be placed inside a biosafety hood much like this one. It will allow the user to be able to view and manipulate small objects under the microscope without needing to lift the glass safety sash, as one will need to do when using a normal binocular microscope. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the Raspberry Pi for this purpose, but my [question on the RBP SE][2] seemed to suggest that it may not be fast enough for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: Have a &lt;50ms delay when displaying live images from a USB webcam with a resolution of 720p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Under US$400 not including the monitor and microscope&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3: Have at least one form of hardware video output and have at least one USB port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4: Preferably fanless, as fans may disrupt the airflow within the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5: Preferably has integrated Wifi and Bluetooth for remote access to save data without needing to place USB drives into the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One method to quantify the webcam time delay would be to point your webcam directly at the computer monitor, and observe the nesting of images. The rate at which the images nest into each other allows the approximate time delay to be measured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/36804/can-the-raspberry-pi-display-video-from-a-webcam-on-a-screen-with-minimal-delay" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="6c869243-3ca6-4e37-b6a1-99dc37a94ca7" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:52:21.947" UserId="409" Text="Recommendation for a cheap and small computer for USB webcam microscope" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="6c869243-3ca6-4e37-b6a1-99dc37a94ca7" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:52:21.947" UserId="409" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;embedded&gt;&lt;scientific-instruments&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="354" RevisionGUID="26a77035-b133-4a7f-b97b-9f7d9c67b706" CreationDate="2015-09-29T11:09:41.940" UserId="313" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="What are the laptops which are most suited for data scientists and analysts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As we deal with heavy computations and also need to generate visualizations, something which can take the toll of it, would be recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be preferred if it can help in handling Big Data analytics too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though the analytics is done in the Map Reduce framework (or distributed computing), yet the computations are heavy and time taking and also slows down the laptop in most cases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a laptop with features and OS which is most suited to handle such things gracefully is recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Price not an issue]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="474" RevisionGUID="57365f11-d78c-4549-b522-d12bb5818a14" CreationDate="2015-09-29T14:16:45.473" UserId="409" Text="An alternative which you should consider is moving to a server-client model for your calculations, performing the calculations on a powerful desktop and accessing the results remotely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The desktop, being relatively free from the restrictions of cooling and weight, can be configured to be almost an order of magnitude more powerful than the best laptop. Dual Xeon setups with 3 or 4 graphics cards come to mind. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in order for remote access to work well, you need to have a reliable internet connection (data or wifi). If you can obtain a high speed internet connection that you can reliably access from any of the places you frequent, you should seriously consider that as an option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many 3G/4G operators have data plans which you can use in your laptop either as a built-in or using a USB data modem, and the main stumbling block here is likely to be the coverage of their services. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="475" RevisionGUID="dc1b8cfd-c58a-43e7-b8b6-2d6220b61f72" CreationDate="2015-09-29T16:36:28.240" UserId="8" Text="I'll recommend my laptop: an [Acer Aspire E1-572](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-15-6-inch-Notebook-Processor-Integrated/dp/B00G48QIV2). There are multiple sub-models of this model, with slightly different specs (other processors, etc), but I'll list what mine has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Intel Core i3-4010U @ 1.7GHz&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Intel HD Graphics 4400, ~2GB DVM&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 15.6&quot; HD LED LCD&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB DDR3 L RAM&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's another model that will allow you to upgrade the processor to an i7. Now, your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Gaming** - I use mine to play similar games. It won't stand massively graphics-intensive stuff, but vanilla Minecraft runs at a steady 60fps (Java on max 4GB RAM)&#xD;&#xA;- **Video Editing** - can't say I've done a lot of it. Should hold up to get what you need to do done, though - but I probably wouldn't try to do heavy stuff.&#xD;&#xA;- **Surfing** - haven't yet found a limit to the number of tabs I can have open and not lag.&#xD;&#xA;- **Speed** - 1.7 GHz CPU is OK - if you're compiling stuff like big Java programs it's a little slow, but holds up and does at least do the job. 8 GB RAM is plenty for almost all tasks, too.&#xD;&#xA;- **Looks** - follow the link, look at the shiny picture. Also comes in other colours - mine's red.&#xD;&#xA;- **Screen** - 15.6&quot; is a little over your requirement, but I carry mine around to school comfortably in a backpack. 1366 x 768.&#xD;&#xA;- **OS** - Windows 8.1 by default. I had no problems at all upgrading that to Win X.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price** - here's where it falls a little. 400 CAN$ is a tight budget. Mine came new for £300 (CAN $600), though you can get a used version online for more like £200 (CAN $400), which is a little better for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="476" RevisionGUID="8bb37396-4047-4a5d-942e-d6ea713b1673" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:07:54.833" UserId="122" Text="I had a similar set of requirements for a media center box in terms of Bluetooh, WiFi, fanless (and I also wanted IR built-in). I have bought and used the [Cubox i series][1] by Solid Run, specifically the [i4 Pro][2] personally.  It has been a great little box and performs admirably in terms of rendering video at full HD, the IR works perfectly with my remote and the WiFi worked out of the box with several OS options that I tried (settled on openELEC for my needs).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will say that I have since switched to wired for better video performance, but I believe that is likely down to poor signal quality to the unit in its current location (which is poor relative to my router).  Other than that this has been running for over a year in its current configuration without an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get a decent amount of local storage via the micro SD card, it has HDMI-out for the display, and it will easily come in under your suggested budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These systems are also available as bare board [SOMs][3], so you could potentially go that route to get a customised fit for your environment too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one thing I can't speak to at present is the latency for displaying the webcam footage.  I use the camera built into my laptop, and do not have a separate unit so I can't easily test using your suggested methodology. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://solid-run.com/freescale-imx6-family/cubox-i/cubox-i-specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://solid-run.com/product/cubox-i4pro/#&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://solid-run.com/freescale-imx6-family/imx6-som/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="635b9499-3e34-49d4-9102-2262f9a941eb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:04:08.183" UserId="415" Text="I have a HP envy 15t laptop computer. I recently purchased this headset for my computer. &#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826158082&#xD;&#xA;and because the HP envy only has a headphone/microphone combojack I purchased this adapter http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W02KP1771&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can here sound through the headphones but the microphone is not working. I tested the microphone on a different computer with two separate audio jacks so I know that it works, and I tried the adapter on my Ipod an my cell phone and it still did not work. Did I buy the wrong adapter, and if so what should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="635b9499-3e34-49d4-9102-2262f9a941eb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:04:08.183" UserId="415" Text="headset combojack adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="635b9499-3e34-49d4-9102-2262f9a941eb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:04:08.183" UserId="415" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="c7abd1d4-449d-4f3c-a37a-281953af99fb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:59:39.763" UserId="155" Comment="formatting and readability, added tag" Text="I have an HP Envy 15t laptop computer. I recently purchased the [Creative Fatal1ty](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826158082) headset for my computer, and because the HP Envy only has a headphone/microphone combo jack I purchased [this adapter](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W02KP1771).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can hear sound through the headphones but the microphone is not working. I tested the microphone on a different computer with two separate audio jacks so I know that it works, and I tried the adapter on my iPod and my cell phone and it still did not work. Did I buy the wrong adapter, and if so, what should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1668" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="c7abd1d4-449d-4f3c-a37a-281953af99fb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:59:39.763" UserId="155" Comment="formatting and readability, added tag" Text="Headset combo jack adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1669" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="c7abd1d4-449d-4f3c-a37a-281953af99fb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:59:39.763" UserId="155" Comment="formatting and readability, added tag" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1670" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="477" RevisionGUID="c7abd1d4-449d-4f3c-a37a-281953af99fb" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:59:39.763" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 415 edit id of 129" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="066cd840-83e8-4a94-aa21-25993b41f789" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:12:32.663" UserId="416" Text="There are a few SDHC Cards with WiFi, but I find it difficult to understand what they can actually do, and even harder to find out how they do it. Ideally I would like a card that is &quot;developer friendly&quot; and lets me access it through an API. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example of a simple task could be to automatically download all RAW files from the SDHC card and convert them to JPEG on the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1673" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="066cd840-83e8-4a94-aa21-25993b41f789" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:12:32.663" UserId="416" Text="Developer friendly WiFi SDCH card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1674" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="066cd840-83e8-4a94-aa21-25993b41f789" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:12:32.663" UserId="416" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1675" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="8c21e2e0-02b8-4c57-9d33-2805e196538d" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:18:17.853" UserId="146" Comment="corrected spelling" Text="Developer friendly WiFi SDHC card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1676" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="8c21e2e0-02b8-4c57-9d33-2805e196538d" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:18:17.853" Comment="Proposed by 146 approved by 416 edit id of 130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1677" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="478" RevisionGUID="bd7c4a75-d803-44c0-b7b6-a6c78f611ee8" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:34:11.590" UserId="416" Comment="Tried to be a bit more specific " Text="There are a few SDHC Cards with WiFi, but I find it difficult to understand what they can actually do, and even harder to find out how they do it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a card that is &quot;developer friendly&quot; and lets me access it through an API of some sort. I know that the FlashAir card has a developers site, but I find the product information lacking for the competition.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example of a simple task could be to automatically download all RAW files from the SDHC card and convert them to JPEG on the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things that would be interesting to know are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can the card be accessed through open protocols, or do you need a proprietary library?&#xD;&#xA; - If you need a lib, which platforms are supported?&#xD;&#xA; - Are there licenses or any other restrictions on developing and distributing apps for the card?&#xD;&#xA; - What capabilities does or doesn't the card have? Read, write, access without user interaction through some kind of pairing for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="8f6791b8-b16c-4f13-bb0d-6c0593663f36" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:08:18.223" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a hands-free [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) for speech recognition. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. What are other good options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want the microphone to be fixed on a stand in front of me, like this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uBiEW.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1679" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="8f6791b8-b16c-4f13-bb0d-6c0593663f36" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:08:18.223" UserId="40" Text="Hands-free stenomask for speech recognition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1680" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="8f6791b8-b16c-4f13-bb0d-6c0593663f36" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:08:18.223" UserId="40" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1683" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="9a22bc3e-7e2a-448d-b8c8-86f658ab10ff" CreationDate="2015-09-29T22:44:35.747" UserId="75" Comment="Resized image" Text="I require a cheap and small computer to act as the monitor of a webcam-microscope. The computer must be able to display the output of the USB webcam microscope with as low a time delay as possible (&lt;50ms delay) and display the output on a monitor with a wired connection (HDMI, DVI or VGA). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer, USB microscope and monitor are intended to be placed inside a biosafety hood much like this one. It will allow the user to be able to view and manipulate small objects under the microscope without needing to lift the glass safety sash, as one will need to do when using a normal binocular microscope. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the Raspberry Pi for this purpose, but my [question on the RBP SE][2] seemed to suggest that it may not be fast enough for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: Have a &lt;50ms delay when displaying live images from a USB webcam with a resolution of 720p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Under US$400 not including the monitor and microscope&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3: Have at least one form of hardware video output and have at least one USB port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4: Preferably fanless, as fans may disrupt the airflow within the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5: Preferably has integrated Wifi and Bluetooth for remote access to save data without needing to place USB drives into the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One method to quantify the webcam time delay would be to point your webcam directly at the computer monitor, and observe the nesting of images. The rate at which the images nest into each other allows the approximate time delay to be measured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7Gm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/36804/can-the-raspberry-pi-display-video-from-a-webcam-on-a-screen-with-minimal-delay" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1684" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="9a22bc3e-7e2a-448d-b8c8-86f658ab10ff" CreationDate="2015-09-29T22:44:35.747" Comment="Proposed by 75 approved by 409 edit id of 131" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="42c3c0d9-4a47-4095-b312-c642d134e7d0" CreationDate="2015-09-29T23:01:28.713" UserId="155" Text="For years now, the only webcam I've (rarely) used is the [Logitech C200](http://support.logitech.com/product/webcam-c200). This is by far outdated now and I'm looking for a high-quality, powerful webcam that would be ideal for streaming. I've looked through the well-known Logitech webcams and, there are some good ones but not quite what I need. These specs are required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;- H.264 video compression&#xD;&#xA;- manual and auto focusing&#xD;&#xA;- \&gt; 30fps&#xD;&#xA;- 5 or more megapixels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally, an independent stand and built-in stereo mics would come in handy every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1686" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="42c3c0d9-4a47-4095-b312-c642d134e7d0" CreationDate="2015-09-29T23:01:28.713" UserId="155" Text="High-quality webcam for streaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1687" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="42c3c0d9-4a47-4095-b312-c642d134e7d0" CreationDate="2015-09-29T23:01:28.713" UserId="155" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1688" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="2814ed63-b175-496e-a589-11daf335ea41" CreationDate="2015-09-29T23:10:08.477" UserId="409" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I require a cheap and small computer to act as the monitor of a webcam-microscope. The computer must be able to display the output of the USB webcam microscope with as low a time delay as possible (&lt;50ms delay) and display the output on a monitor with a wired connection (HDMI, DVI or VGA). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer, USB microscope and monitor are intended to be placed inside a biosafety hood much like this one. It will allow the user to be able to view and manipulate small objects under the microscope without needing to lift the glass safety sash, as one will need to do when using a normal binocular microscope. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the Raspberry Pi for this purpose, but my [question on the RBP SE][2] seemed to suggest that it may not be fast enough for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: The computer must introduce less than 50ms of delay when displaying live images from a USB webcam with a resolution of 720p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Under US$400 not including the monitor and microscope&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3: Have at least one form of hardware video output and have at least one USB port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4: Preferably fanless, as fans may disrupt the airflow within the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5: Preferably has integrated Wifi and Bluetooth for remote access to save data without needing to place USB drives into the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One method to quantify the webcam time delay would be to point your webcam directly at the computer monitor, and observe the nesting of images. The rate at which the images nest into each other allows the approximate time delay to be measured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7Gm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/36804/can-the-raspberry-pi-display-video-from-a-webcam-on-a-screen-with-minimal-delay" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="476" RevisionGUID="b3fc6ad8-82a9-423e-b232-9b74f933d0e7" CreationDate="2015-09-29T23:41:10.047" UserId="122" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I had a similar set of requirements for a media center box in terms of Bluetooth, WiFi, fanless (and I also wanted IR built-in). I have bought and used the [Cubox i series][1] by Solid Run, specifically the [i4 Pro][2] personally.  It has been a great little box and performs admirably in terms of rendering video at full HD, the IR works perfectly with my remote and the WiFi worked out of the box with several OS options that I tried (settled on openELEC for my needs).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will say that I have since switched to wired for better video performance, but I believe that is likely down to poor signal quality to the unit in its current location (which is poor relative to my router).  Other than that this has been running for over a year in its current configuration without an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get a decent amount of local storage via the micro SD card, it has HDMI-out for the display, and it will easily come in under your suggested budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These systems are also available as bare board [SOMs][3], so you could potentially go that route to get a customised fit for your environment too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one thing I can't speak to at present is the latency for displaying the webcam footage.  I use the camera built into my laptop, and do not have a separate unit so I can't easily test using your suggested methodology. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://solid-run.com/freescale-imx6-family/cubox-i/cubox-i-specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://solid-run.com/product/cubox-i4pro/#&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://solid-run.com/freescale-imx6-family/imx6-som/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="789281d8-4180-46b9-ad51-fcb1789f7dd6" CreationDate="2015-09-30T02:50:44.783" UserId="155" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="For years now, the only webcam I've (rarely) used is the [Logitech C200](http://support.logitech.com/product/webcam-c200). This is by far outdated now and I'm looking for a high-quality, powerful webcam that would be ideal for streaming. I've looked through the well-known Logitech webcams and, there are some good ones but not quite what I need. These specs are required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;- H.264 video compression&#xD;&#xA;- manual and auto focusing&#xD;&#xA;- \&gt; 30fps&#xD;&#xA;- 5 or more megapixels&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally, an independent stand and built-in stereo mics would come in handy every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="482" RevisionGUID="8eb0903e-c6a6-4246-883b-988152d81897" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:01:18.277" UserId="60" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just about have all the parts picked out, but I need a way to power them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 24 pin ATX power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 8 pin CPU power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 80 Plus Platinum&#xD;&#xA;- Standard size&#xD;&#xA;- Can power 140W processor, 300W graphics card, 2 or 3 hard drives, and ~5 fans&#xD;&#xA;- Costs less than $200 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to Haves**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fully modular&#xD;&#xA;- Dedicated fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be getting this [motherboard](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [processor](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product), and [graphics card](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60) for reference. What is a good power supply that meets my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1692" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="482" RevisionGUID="8eb0903e-c6a6-4246-883b-988152d81897" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:01:18.277" UserId="60" Text="Power supply for new college computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1693" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="482" RevisionGUID="8eb0903e-c6a6-4246-883b-988152d81897" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:01:18.277" UserId="60" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="482" RevisionGUID="69bd6bda-393d-48bc-a473-ed4ea5fcefd1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:25:32.480" UserId="60" Comment="Added more info about storage." Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just about have all the parts picked out, but I need a way to power them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 24 pin ATX power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 8 pin CPU power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 80 Plus Platinum&#xD;&#xA;- Standard size&#xD;&#xA;- Can power 140W processor, 300W graphics card, 2 or 3 3.5&quot; 7200 RPM hard drives, one SSD, and ~5 fans&#xD;&#xA;- Costs less than $200 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to Haves**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fully modular&#xD;&#xA;- Dedicated fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be getting this [motherboard](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [processor](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product), and [graphics card](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60) for reference. What is a good power supply that meets my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="483" RevisionGUID="d102027d-61e1-48cd-b2f3-5b7c05b0ad86" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:38:13.280" UserId="57" Text="I recommend [Corsair's AX760](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139042)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has the connectors specified (24 pin ATX and 8 pin CPU)&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Platinum certification&#xD;&#xA; - Standard size&#xD;&#xA; - 760 watts (if you feel that's to close to the estimated 600W pointed out in the [comments](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/482/power-supply-for-new-college-computer#comment1020_482), you can upgrade to the 860W for $20 more)&#xD;&#xA; - Cost: $150 (on sale); $200 (full price)&#xD;&#xA; - It is fully modular&#xD;&#xA; - Not only does it have a dedicated fan...it's quiet&#xD;&#xA; - 7 year warranty&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My newest machine has this power supply. I've had no problems with it at all and been very pleased with performance. I use it to power very similar hardware to what you've already picked out (including the multiple drives and combination of HDD and SSDs). I selected it because of the good reviews I'd seen, including an [Editor's Choice award from TechPowerUp](https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/AX760/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; To sum up, the AX760 is a no brainer if you don't want many bells and whistles (aka digital control), but do want the best that money can buy in this category. You will invest a serious amount of money, that is for sure, but you will enjoy Corsair's support for seven years while your system is being fed by ultra-clean and stable DC outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qw3v4.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="484" RevisionGUID="a3b56a2e-dc89-40c5-a7c4-c6fa9ae4789c" CreationDate="2015-09-30T05:04:05.013" UserId="155" Text="I'm with Andy on the Corsair PSUs. They're _always_ the best quality on the market and they come with great price tags. I'll recommend something a little different though: the [Corsair HX850i](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hxi-series-hx850i-high-performance-atx-power-supply-850-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-psu) is part of the HX gaming series and is built for high performance with low noise output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 840 Watts &amp;ndash; more than enough room for extra graphics cards or overclocking&#xD;&#xA;- 20+4-pin power (effectively 24 total)&#xD;&#xA;- Haswell support&#xD;&#xA;- fully modular&#xD;&#xA;- 92% efficiency &amp;ndash; amazing performance for gaming&#xD;&#xA;- over power/under voltage/over temp/short circuit protection&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Link to adjust rail voltages (fan speeds)&#xD;&#xA;- ZeroRPM mode that turns the fan off when there's little to no load&#xD;&#xA;- 140mm fluid dynamic fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The warranty on Corsair products is much, much longer than anything else you'll find, however it still doesn't cover the entire lifespan of the PSU because they last so dang long. I highly recommend this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="843eec53-580d-44a1-b160-768ac2ed454c" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:55:56.543" UserId="157" Text="I want to buy qwerty keyboard which have feature like [Razer Deathstalker Switchblade UI](http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathStalker-Ultimate-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B008YRITPO). It's must have :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Customize able touch input&#xD;&#xA; - [Have standard US QWERTY keyboard layout](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QWERTY#/media/File:Qwerty.svg)&#xD;&#xA; - Wired USB&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it's cheaper version of deathstalker . Is there any keyboard meet this criteria ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1699" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="843eec53-580d-44a1-b160-768ac2ed454c" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:55:56.543" UserId="157" Text="Keyboard with custom touch input under $150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1700" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="843eec53-580d-44a1-b160-768ac2ed454c" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:55:56.543" UserId="157" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="488" RevisionGUID="db9d399b-6dbe-418d-a5cb-30e9d04cac34" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:38:58.967" UserId="420" Text="I have a notebook: HP PB 4540s. It contains:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: Hewlett-Packard 17F6&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i5-3230M 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: DDR3 Kingston 8GB 1333MHz&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Intel HD Graphics 4000 300MHz&#xD;&#xA; - 1x VGA and 1x HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to buy two [AOC i2369Vm 23&quot;][1] monitors. I want to use monitors without the display my notebook has. I quess I will have to connect one monitor using VGA and the other through HDMI. Will it work? Will there be huge difference in quality? Would [this][2] be a solution to display differences?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AOC-I2369VM-inch-Monitor-50000000/dp/B00BDBWE0Y&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dx.com/p/vga-to-hdmi-hd-adapter-cable-w-3-5mm-cable-usb-charging-cable-black-379287#.VguRRd_tlBd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1706" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="488" RevisionGUID="db9d399b-6dbe-418d-a5cb-30e9d04cac34" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:38:58.967" UserId="420" Text="Two monitors working with my notebook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1707" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="488" RevisionGUID="db9d399b-6dbe-418d-a5cb-30e9d04cac34" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:38:58.967" UserId="420" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="488" RevisionGUID="bfdfbbc9-c8f8-42e6-bad6-9e64525561b8" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:49:28.750" UserId="420" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="I have a notebook: HP PB 4540s. It contains:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: Hewlett-Packard 17F6&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i5-3230M 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: DDR3 Kingston 8GB 1333MHz&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Intel HD Graphics 4000 300MHz&#xD;&#xA; - 1x VGA and 1x HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to buy two [AOC i2369Vm 23&quot;][1] monitors. I want to use monitors without the display my notebook has. I quess I will have to connect one monitor using VGA and the other through HDMI. Will it work? Will there be huge difference in quality? Would [this][2] be a solution to display differences? What would you recommend me to do/buy so I can work on two monitors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AOC-I2369VM-inch-Monitor-50000000/dp/B00BDBWE0Y&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dx.com/p/vga-to-hdmi-hd-adapter-cable-w-3-5mm-cable-usb-charging-cable-black-379287#.VguRRd_tlBd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1713" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="c61de9de-a4c8-4413-b9cc-32bbd9988e59" CreationDate="2015-09-30T08:34:35.770" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar and readability" Text="I want to buy a QWERTY keyboard which has features like the [Razer Deathstalker Switchblade UI](http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathStalker-Ultimate-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B008YRITPO). It's must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Customizable touch input&#xD;&#xA; - Standard US QWERTY keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA; - Wired USB&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it's cheaper version of the Deathstalker. Is there any keyboard that meets this criteria?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1714" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="c61de9de-a4c8-4413-b9cc-32bbd9988e59" CreationDate="2015-09-30T08:34:35.770" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 157 edit id of 132" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="490" RevisionGUID="a9589db2-0de6-4a44-859c-b21bb4957884" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:33:04.813" UserId="54" Text="1. As far as I know it it can only recognize either VGA or HDMI. [Check this topic][1]. The best thing you can do is to ask on HP forums about drivers - it would be better to do it before making a purchase. Check this part from the linked topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I discovered that if you run the install of the Intel HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA;&gt; driver version 10.18.010.3464 it will initialize both the VGA and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI and they will both work until you reboot your machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. VGA supports 1080p. The quality of the signal begins to drop off above 1920x1080. Is it worth to buy a good quality cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Similar question on [SuperUser][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware/Two-Displays-on-Probook-4540s/td-p/5078189&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/782227/probook-4540s-monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. The adapter may be unnecessary if you find appropriate drivers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="491" RevisionGUID="1fbb844f-3bde-4e0c-b8b3-f53022b9cabd" CreationDate="2015-09-30T17:12:58.830" UserId="40" Text="I personally use the [Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECDM78E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage), I find it convenient if you have many devices to connect to your laptop. Regarding the graphics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI port supports resolutions up to 2560x1440* and DVI/VGA port supports display resolutions up to 2048x1152 / 1920x1200; wired Ethernet port supports 10/100/1000Mbps speeds&#xD;&#xA;- Full support for Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, &amp; legacy XP systems. Surface RT, Mac OS X, and Linux/Unix are not supported. Docking station suggested for use with web and productivity software; not recommended for gaming&#xD;&#xA;- *2560x1440 output only available when using a single HDMI display. If dual displays are connected, each will be limited to a maximum resolution of 1920x1200. 2560x1440 output requires a &quot;High Speed&quot; HDMI cable. 2560x1440 mode operates at a 50Hz refresh rate; all lower modes support 60Hz refresh. 2560x1440 output requires current DisplayLink drivers and attached monitor must natively support 2560x1440 via HDMI input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KcyqL.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWr8k.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1719" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="491" RevisionGUID="dde332d4-82f0-44a3-a5b0-81f94a3c7576" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:48:31.303" UserId="74" Comment="Made those gigantic images less gigantic" Text="I personally use the [Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECDM78E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage), I find it convenient if you have many devices to connect to your laptop. Regarding the graphics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI port supports resolutions up to 2560x1440* and DVI/VGA port supports display resolutions up to 2048x1152 / 1920x1200; wired Ethernet port supports 10/100/1000Mbps speeds&#xD;&#xA;- Full support for Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, &amp; legacy XP systems. Surface RT, Mac OS X, and Linux/Unix are not supported. Docking station suggested for use with web and productivity software; not recommended for gaming&#xD;&#xA;- *2560x1440 output only available when using a single HDMI display. If dual displays are connected, each will be limited to a maximum resolution of 1920x1200. 2560x1440 output requires a &quot;High Speed&quot; HDMI cable. 2560x1440 mode operates at a 50Hz refresh rate; all lower modes support 60Hz refresh. 2560x1440 output requires current DisplayLink drivers and attached monitor must natively support 2560x1440 via HDMI input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/KcyqL.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/KcyqL.png&quot; width=&quot;320&quot; alt=&quot;Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWr8k.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWr8k.png&quot; width=&quot;320&quot; alt=&quot;Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1720" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="491" RevisionGUID="dde332d4-82f0-44a3-a5b0-81f94a3c7576" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:48:31.303" Comment="Proposed by 74 approved by 40 edit id of 133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="492" RevisionGUID="6f0407c3-672b-4b8b-9306-23cb3fe4f907" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:19:46.653" UserId="122" Text="PSU recommendations are tough because it is a fairly quickly shifting market (not as bad as some, but nonetheless).  I have personally had good experiences with several Corsair models, Enermax, EVGA and a couple of others over the years, so how do you go about picking one again?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My lazy default is probably Corsair, but that is covered in other answers, and I occasionally want to look at other options and do my homework rather than assume that it is still the best choice.  When doing so, I first check out a Power Supply calculator like [this one][1] to make sure I am beating my minimum required wattage by at least 20% - this gives me wiggle room should I need to add devices, or up the graphics card later, it also means that I am not over stressing the PSU even at full load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, I will decide if I really want modular or not, because there is usually a bit of a premium there in terms of price.  Then I will filter down to the ones on the list with the best efficiency rating within my wattage and budget range.  This is all a little theoretical, so let's walk through it with actual numbers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guessed at a couple of things with your specs as a guideline and came up with a wattage requirement of 580W.  Using my 20% rule above that rounds up to 700W as a minimum.  Next I plugged those requirements (along with the platinum 80 plus and modular requirement) into Newegg and got a list of just 8 candidates.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am hoping for now is for one (or more) of those candidates to be from brands I know.  If so, then I just do some basic due diligence by reading a couple of reviews, and make my choice.  In this case my results give me two such options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Corsair AX760][2]&#xD;&#xA;* [EVGA SuperNova 750 P2][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without a major price difference I would go for the Corsair, but the reviews on the EVGA look good, I've had decent experience with EVGA previously, and right now it is coming in at $40 cheaper than the 760 ($109 vs $149 after rebate) because it is on sale.  That's enough for me, if I was buying the PSU right now, it would be the EVGA.  Without the sale I would plump for the Corsair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.corsair.com/en/ax760-atx-power-supply-760-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-0750-X1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1722" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="490" RevisionGUID="e5a67e46-ad57-49cb-8c1a-f88ca9004864" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:22:54.773" UserId="54" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="Update&#xD;&#xA;This monitor has a D-Sub input. In this case you need just VGA-VGA cable.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;1. As far as I know it it can only recognize either VGA or HDMI. [Check this topic][2]. The best thing you can do is to ask on HP forums about drivers - it would be better to do it before making a purchase. Check this part from the linked topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I discovered that if you run the install of the Intel HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA;&gt; driver version 10.18.010.3464 it will initialize both the VGA and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI and they will both work until you reboot your machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. VGA supports 1080p. The quality of the signal begins to drop off above 1920x1080. Is it worth to buy a good quality cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Similar question on [SuperUser][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. The adapter may be unnecessary if you find appropriate drivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Uwe26.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware/Two-Displays-on-Probook-4540s/td-p/5078189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://superuser.com/questions/782227/probook-4540s-monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1723" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="493" RevisionGUID="f8221a25-f4fe-4083-b6c8-2e0bde5204f1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:20:43.083" UserId="429" Text="I use the Magic Mouse a lot. I find it extremely precise and convenient for text, video and design tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also like the way it looks, and the fact that it doesn't use a USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having recently started to learn 3D with Blender, I believe I am entering a domain that this mouse is clearly not designed for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for a mouse that would be good for 3D (three buttons, scroll-wheel in the middle), that doesn't look too ugly on my desk, and whose shape wouldn't be too different from the one of the Magic Mouse so that my hand can get used to it quickly when I switch back and forth. Also, it would have to be Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked on many websites, but the first thing that happens is that I can't find anything that seems to meet these requirements, or the second thing that happens is that most brands are brands I've never heard of and don't know whether I can trust them with my money or not. I'd rather avoid buying 20 different mouses (mice?) until I find one that works on Mac / is sturdy / works very well / etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I've been using a Logitech M185, which isn't very beautiful, and also needs a USB port to work (it's wireless, but you need to plug a transmitter/receiver in the USB port for it to work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/48wo6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1724" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="493" RevisionGUID="f8221a25-f4fe-4083-b6c8-2e0bde5204f1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:20:43.083" UserId="429" Text="Best mouse for 3D/Blender for users used to Apple Magic Mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1725" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="493" RevisionGUID="f8221a25-f4fe-4083-b6c8-2e0bde5204f1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:20:43.083" UserId="429" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="492" RevisionGUID="a7d4939c-11be-4b42-94e0-25fa52e5997b" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:27:13.893" UserId="122" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="PSU recommendations are tough because it is a fairly quickly shifting market (not as bad as some, but nonetheless).  I have personally had good experiences with several Corsair models, Enermax, EVGA and a couple of others over the years, so how do you go about picking one again?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My lazy default is probably Corsair, but that is covered in other answers, and I occasionally want to look at other options and do my homework rather than assume that it is still the best choice.  When doing so, I first check out a Power Supply calculator like [this one][1] to make sure I am beating my minimum required wattage by at least 20% - this gives me wiggle room should I need to add devices, or up the graphics card later, it also means that I am not over stressing the PSU even at full load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, I will decide if I really want modular or not, because there is usually a bit of a premium there in terms of price.  Then I will filter down to the ones on the list with the best efficiency rating within my wattage and budget range.  This is all a little theoretical, so let's walk through it with actual numbers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guessed at a couple of things with your specs as a guideline and came up with a wattage requirement of 580W.  Using my 20% rule above that rounds up to 700W as a minimum and I'll use 800W as a max to keep the resulting list smaller.  Next, I plugged those requirements (along with the platinum 80 plus and modular requirement) into Newegg and got a list of just 8 candidates.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am hoping for now is for one (or more) of those candidates to be from brands I know.  If so, then I just do some basic due diligence by reading a couple of reviews, and make my choice.  In this case my results give me two such options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Corsair AX760][2]&#xD;&#xA;* [EVGA SuperNova 750 P2][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without a major price difference I would go for the Corsair, but the reviews on the EVGA look good, I've had decent experience with EVGA previously, and right now it is coming in at $40 cheaper than the 760 ($109 vs $149 after rebate) because it is on sale.  That's enough for me, if I was buying the PSU right now, it would be the EVGA.  Without the sale I would plump for the Corsair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.corsair.com/en/ax760-atx-power-supply-760-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-0750-X1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="494" RevisionGUID="f603cc8e-3a75-4b5d-9784-ffcffe0ce32d" CreationDate="2015-09-30T23:10:57.940" UserId="155" Text="As @ArtOfCode said in a comment, there aren't many mice out there that can connect directly to a device without a receiver. This is because most wireless components (Bluetooth or otherwise) are designed using their own special frequencies, encodings, or some other aspect that, when altered, can restrict freely connecting to any device. Most companies do this as a simple marketing technique.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now for a recommendation. As always, good ol' Logitech has a product for anything you need. The [M557 Bluetooth Mouse](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/bluetooth-mouse-m557) (~$40 USD) will hopefully suit you well:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth wireless &amp;ndash; no receiver needed to connect to any device&#xD;&#xA;- 12-month battery life (kind of vague because everyone uses their mouse differently, still amazing though)&#xD;&#xA;- Logitech software allows you to customize the function of each button&#xD;&#xA;- 1000 dpi for accurate clicks&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll wheel can scroll side-to-side&#xD;&#xA;- Comfortable design &amp;ndash; not nearly as slim as the Magic Mouse, but the shape is similar (see below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Apple Magic Mouse - Top View][1]][1] [![Logitech M557 - Top View][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EfomP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ji4mY.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1730" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="490" RevisionGUID="6d9d4304-bd4c-4438-9d20-4efb197e6023" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:56:10.540" UserId="54" Comment="added 106 characters in body" Text="An Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor has a D-Sub input. In this case you just need a VGA-VGA cable. VGA supports 1080p as it is - you won't notice any difference since the cable is of good quality.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;1. As far as I know it it can only recognize either VGA or HDMI. [Check this topic][2]. The best thing you can do is to ask on HP forums about drivers - it would be better to do it before making a purchase. Check this part from the linked topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I discovered that if you run the install of the Intel HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA;&gt; driver version 10.18.010.3464 it will initialize both the VGA and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI and they will both work until you reboot your machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. VGA supports 1080p. The quality of the signal begins to drop off above 1920x1080. Is it worth to buy a good quality cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Similar question on [SuperUser][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. The adapter may be unnecessary if you find appropriate drivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Uwe26.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware/Two-Displays-on-Probook-4540s/td-p/5078189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://superuser.com/questions/782227/probook-4540s-monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="5db38ebd-e0c8-44a0-b29a-e4ec83a28c59" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:57:15.283" UserId="432" Text="I'm a graduate student looking to test an experimental spectral imager. It's basically a camera that can see lots of different colors instead of just red, green, and blue (RGB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a small display that I can easily use to display our test images:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less than 2 inches in width&#xD;&#xA;Less than 2 inches in height&#xD;&#xA;At least 256 by 256 pixels resolution. The higher the pixels per inch the better.&#xD;&#xA;At least 3 colors: RGB is fine. &#xD;&#xA;Portable (I need to take this across the US multiple times next 6 months)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like the display from the Apple iWatch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the important part: Using a computer, I need to able to set the individual pixels to either red, green, or blue.&#xD;&#xA;	I would like to it as a second monitor for my computer. So an HDMI, DVI, or VideoPort connection would be ideal. I'd also be ok with a USB controlled display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My technical background: I'm comfortable with MATLAB, Windows 7, MAC OS X. I also have about 6 months of experience with Python and LabView. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a strong electronics background; don't ask me to use something that requires building a circuit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1732" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="5db38ebd-e0c8-44a0-b29a-e4ec83a28c59" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:57:15.283" UserId="432" Text="Need a small portable display less than 2x2 inches with at least 256by256 resolution that" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1733" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="5db38ebd-e0c8-44a0-b29a-e4ec83a28c59" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:57:15.283" UserId="432" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1734" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="326" RevisionGUID="b76b32ab-ec48-48ae-915c-d72574e7afe4" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:01:54.563" UserId="276" Comment="Improve spelling and phrasing" Text="First of all, a small disclaimer. Bear in mind that whatever external fans you may feasibly buy and install will provide much less efficient cooling than an internal one, mostly due to proximity and heat dissipation efficiency (there's a reason why the fan is usually close to the heatsink, which is in direct contact with the CPU).  Running the computer under these conditions will have a high risk of damage due to overheating.  Now, on to your actual question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had heating issues with previous Dell laptops that I've owned (Vostro, Inspiron), and have used cooling pads/mats to great effect.  In particular, Cooler Master makes good cooling pads, like [this slim cooling pad in your price range](http://amzn.com/B005C31HC0 &quot;a good cooling pad like this one&quot;).  I would definitely recommend something like this for a simple, store-bought solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also go for a more involved, probably more expensive and DIY solution, like building your own fan assembly with a high-performance fan (such as [this one from Noctua, which makes some of the best air coolers for CPUs](http://amzn.com/B00CP6QLY6 &quot;noctua 14mm fan&quot;)).  I have no experience with something like this, other than putting together cooling kits, but I would think they may give you better cooling performance.  Then again, they might not.  I would recommend this only if you like the challenge of building it, which might be really fun :).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best of luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1735" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="da377c08-5fd7-4d71-897f-993d84526e1b" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:33:34.253" UserId="432" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="Need a small portable display less than 2x2 inches with at least 256by256 resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1736" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="306cbccc-a739-4350-9631-4ee2f81806e0" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:36:17.060" UserId="155" Comment="formatting, general improvement, cleaner title" Text="I'm a graduate student looking to test an experimental [spectral imager](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectral_imaging). It's basically a camera that can see lots of different colors instead of just red, green, and blue (RGB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a small display that I can easily use to display our test images:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in width&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in height&#xD;&#xA;- At least 256x256 resolution &amp;ndash; the higher the pixels per inch the better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 colors, RGB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- Portable (I need to take this across the US multiple times in the next 6 months)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like the display on the Apple iWatch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the important part: Using a computer, I need to able to set the individual pixels to either red, green, or blue. I would like to use it as a second monitor for my computer. So an HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort connection would be ideal. I'd also be okay with a USB-controlled display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My technical background: I'm comfortable with MATLAB, Windows 7, MAC OS X. I also have about 6 months of experience with Python and LabView. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a strong electronics background; don't ask me to use something that requires building a circuit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1737" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="306cbccc-a739-4350-9631-4ee2f81806e0" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:36:17.060" UserId="155" Comment="formatting, general improvement, cleaner title" Text="Need a small, portable 256x256 display for spectral imaging" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1738" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="57c7e135-7497-4d2f-9307-11d0c7032006" CreationDate="2015-10-01T17:00:27.533" UserId="433" Text="I'm trying to decide between two computers that will be used for graphic design, heavy adobe usage - Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign, etc, as well as some web design work as well. I have the Adobe Master Collection CS6 installed on my current computer. I have it narrowed down between these two computers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG G751-DH71&#xD;&#xA;MSI GS70 Stealth Pro-072&#xD;&#xA;I'm having a hard time determining if one is better for graphic design, over the other, or if both would work equally as good. I'm getting conflicting stories from salesmen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I can tell, ASUS has better video memory - 4GB GDDR5 vs 3GB GDDR5 on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS also has Nvidia GeForce GTX 980M vs 970M on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The video memory and graphics card specs I don't know anything about (I hate to admit), other than they're high numbers and higher numbers usually mean better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS can be expanded to 32GB Ram, while the MSI Stealth maxes out at 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;I'm confused on this one. The salesmen at the stores are telling me that anything beyond 16gb ram is overkill, but when I look online, they say at least 24GB ram for graphic design. When I checked my ram usage, I had Illustrator running, Photoshop, virtualbox and opened a 1.4GB Photoshop file, while also trying to open a large Illustrator file and didn't go beyond 10GB ram usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MSI Stealth has a 5th generation Intel processor, while the ASUS only has a 4th generation.&#xD;&#xA;My other main concern is the memory card reader, which I use quite often. The MSI supports SDXC, SD and SDHC, while the ASUS only supports SD and MMC&#xD;&#xA;I'm told the ASUS has a better screen - IPS - but looking at both of them in the store, they both seem equally as good.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS also has something called a Thunderbolt port? Since I don't know what this is, I'm guessing it's not a spec I need to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read that the audio quality is bad. I couldn't really test the audio in the store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Soft touch coating wears off?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No DVD drive. Despite what I'm being told, I still use the DVD drive, but this isn't a deal breaker, I could also get an external drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1739" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="57c7e135-7497-4d2f-9307-11d0c7032006" CreationDate="2015-10-01T17:00:27.533" UserId="433" Text="MSI Stealth Pro-072 vs ASUS G751JY-DH71?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1740" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="57c7e135-7497-4d2f-9307-11d0c7032006" CreationDate="2015-10-01T17:00:27.533" UserId="433" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gpu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="4e7a1f64-792a-4f2e-af3d-cab2f16c0bec" CreationDate="2015-10-01T18:16:21.747" UserId="433" Comment="price and additional specs." Text="I'm trying to decide between two computers that will be used for graphic design, heavy adobe usage - Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign, etc, as well as some web design work as well. I have the Adobe Master Collection CS6 installed on my current computer. I have it narrowed down between these two computers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG G751-DH71&#xD;&#xA;MSI GS70 Stealth Pro-072&#xD;&#xA;I'm having a hard time determining if one is better for graphic design, over the other, or if both would work equally as good. I'm getting conflicting stories from salesmen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I can tell, ASUS has better video memory - 4GB GDDR5 vs 3GB GDDR5 on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS also has Nvidia GeForce GTX 980M vs 970M on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The video memory and graphics card specs I don't know anything about (I hate to admit), other than they're high numbers and higher numbers usually mean better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS can be expanded to 32GB Ram, while the MSI Stealth maxes out at 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;I'm confused on this one. The salesmen at the stores are telling me that anything beyond 16gb ram is overkill, but when I look online, they say at least 24GB ram for graphic design. When I checked my ram usage, I had Illustrator running, Photoshop, virtualbox and opened a 1.4GB Photoshop file, while also trying to open a large Illustrator file and didn't go beyond 10GB ram usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MSI Stealth has a 5th generation Intel processor, while the ASUS only has a 4th generation.&#xD;&#xA;My other main concern is the memory card reader, which I use quite often. The MSI supports SDXC, SD and SDHC, while the ASUS only supports SD and MMC&#xD;&#xA;I'm told the ASUS has a better screen - IPS - but looking at both of them in the store, they both seem equally as good.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS also has something called a Thunderbolt port? Since I don't know what this is, I'm guessing it's not a spec I need to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read that the audio quality is bad. I couldn't really test the audio in the store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Soft touch coating wears off?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No DVD drive. Despite what I'm being told, I still use the DVD drive, but this isn't a deal breaker, I could also get an external drive.&#xA;&#xA;-- UPDATE--&#xA;The MSI is about $2000, the ASUS about $2200. The MSI comes with a 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD. The ASUS has a 1TB HDD + 256GB SSD. However, if I go with the ASUS, I was considering swapping the SSD for a 512 before even taking the computer home." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1742" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="1bc31576-3eb1-468c-aff8-95ac197799e4" CreationDate="2015-10-01T18:18:42.087" UserId="155" Comment="changed tags" Text="I'm trying to decide between two computers that will be used for graphic design, heavy adobe usage - Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign, etc, as well as some web design work as well. I have the Adobe Master Collection CS6 installed on my current computer. I have it narrowed down between these two computers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG G751-DH71&#xD;&#xA;MSI GS70 Stealth Pro-072&#xD;&#xA;I'm having a hard time determining if one is better for graphic design, over the other, or if both would work equally as good. I'm getting conflicting stories from salesmen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I can tell, ASUS has better video memory - 4GB GDDR5 vs 3GB GDDR5 on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS also has Nvidia GeForce GTX 980M vs 970M on the MSI&#xD;&#xA;The video memory and graphics card specs I don't know anything about (I hate to admit), other than they're high numbers and higher numbers usually mean better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS can be expanded to 32GB Ram, while the MSI Stealth maxes out at 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;I'm confused on this one. The salesmen at the stores are telling me that anything beyond 16gb ram is overkill, but when I look online, they say at least 24GB ram for graphic design. When I checked my ram usage, I had Illustrator running, Photoshop, virtualbox and opened a 1.4GB Photoshop file, while also trying to open a large Illustrator file and didn't go beyond 10GB ram usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MSI Stealth has a 5th generation Intel processor, while the ASUS only has a 4th generation.&#xD;&#xA;My other main concern is the memory card reader, which I use quite often. The MSI supports SDXC, SD and SDHC, while the ASUS only supports SD and MMC&#xD;&#xA;I'm told the ASUS has a better screen - IPS - but looking at both of them in the store, they both seem equally as good.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS also has something called a Thunderbolt port? Since I don't know what this is, I'm guessing it's not a spec I need to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;ASUS CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read that the audio quality is bad. I couldn't really test the audio in the store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Soft touch coating wears off?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI CON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No DVD drive. Despite what I'm being told, I still use the DVD drive, but this isn't a deal breaker, I could also get an external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-- UPDATE--&#xD;&#xA;The MSI is about $2000, the ASUS about $2200. The MSI comes with a 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD. The ASUS has a 1TB HDD + 256GB SSD. However, if I go with the ASUS, I was considering swapping the SSD for a 512 before even taking the computer home." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1743" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="1bc31576-3eb1-468c-aff8-95ac197799e4" CreationDate="2015-10-01T18:18:42.087" UserId="155" Comment="changed tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="497" RevisionGUID="67569352-4b4a-408a-a930-8a9cd432f3cc" CreationDate="2015-10-01T18:51:11.583" UserId="60" Text="I would go with the ASUS laptop. It supports more memory, which allows you to have more programs open, and believe me, Adobe is horrible about memory management. The graphics card is better in the ASUS, but that doesn't matter unless you are going to game or do 3D renders with it. According to the spec sheets from the links you gave me, they both use the same processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not be concerned with the bad audio and lack of supported memory cards; you can use external hardware to make up for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main difference between these laptops is the RAM, which is arguably the most important competent for graphic designers. That is why I recommend you go with the ASUS laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1745" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="497" RevisionGUID="c4f90bf5-5457-4c7c-8e14-c7370d6584c1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T19:07:47.793" UserId="60" Comment="Improved the flow of the answer" Text="I would go with the ASUS laptop. It supports more memory, which allows you to have more programs open, and believe me, Adobe is horrible about memory management. While the graphics card is better in the ASUS, it doesn't really matter unless you are going to game or do 3D renders with it. According to the spec sheets from the links you gave me, they both use the same processor (the Intel Core™ i7-4710HQ processor). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you are buying a new computer, focus on the things that you cannot fix, things like the processor, graphics, and max RAM. Things you can fix shouldn't count against it as heavily. While the ASUS might have bad audio, you can use headphones or other external speakers. If it doesn't support the memory cards that you want, you can get a USB card reader. The MSI laptop on the other hand doesn't have a CD drive, but as you said, you can get an external one. However, you cannot add more then 16GB of RAM if you need more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main difference between these laptops is the RAM, which is arguably the most important competent for graphic designers. That is why I recommend you go with the ASUS laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1764" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="391" RevisionGUID="b17494f7-769f-4d88-9bcf-5c18f7357a23" CreationDate="2015-10-01T22:45:08.860" UserId="155" Comment="changed out tag for commonality" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1765" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="370c27bc-132a-4d15-9135-a432431f2091" CreationDate="2015-10-02T02:33:36.090" UserId="1" Comment="&quot;Apple Watch&quot;, not iWatch; &quot;OS X&quot; (dropped the &quot;Mac&quot; part a couple years back); something random to get to 6 chars" Text="I'm a graduate student looking to test an experimental [spectral imager](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectral_imaging). It's basically a camera that can see lots of different colors instead of just red, green, and blue (RGB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a small display that I can easily use to display our test images:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in width&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in height&#xD;&#xA;- At least 256x256 resolution &amp;ndash; the higher the pixels per inch the better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 colors, RGB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- Portable (I need to take this across the US multiple times in the next 6 months)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like the display on the Apple Watch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the important part: Using a computer, I need to able to set the individual pixels to either red, green, or blue. I would like to use it as a second monitor for my computer. So an HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort connection would be ideal. I'd also be okay with a USB-controlled display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My technical background: I'm comfortable with MATLAB, Windows 7, OS X. I also have about 6 months of experience with Python and LabView. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a strong electronics background; don't ask me to use something that requires building/soldering a circuit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1766" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="370c27bc-132a-4d15-9135-a432431f2091" CreationDate="2015-10-02T02:33:36.090" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 155, 432 edit id of 135" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="500" RevisionGUID="58192934-dd68-4e33-b2bb-33c9d243cf7c" CreationDate="2015-10-02T03:09:49.373" UserId="440" Text="How can I find a replacement heat sink/fan assembly for a graphics card? Are there any standards as to size and screwhole placement?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a fairly old PC, to which I wanted to add a USB 3.0 card. Unfortunately, the heat sink on my video card (a PNY GeForce GT 430 RVCGGT4301XXB) hung right over the only 1x PCIe slot on the motherboard. As an experiment, I decided to take a Dremel and cut off the fins of the heat sink in the way of the other slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dremel process was a huge pain and the end result was very messy, but it seemed to allow just enough space for the other card. Unfortunately, although the video card worked initially, it shut down the (HDMI) video signal after a few minutes. I rebooted and confirmed a recurrence of this behavior.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace this heat sink/fan, preferably with one that doesn't stick out quite as far over the other PCIe slot. Is this possible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1768" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="500" RevisionGUID="58192934-dd68-4e33-b2bb-33c9d243cf7c" CreationDate="2015-10-02T03:09:49.373" UserId="440" Text="Finding replacement heat sink/fan for GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1769" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="500" RevisionGUID="58192934-dd68-4e33-b2bb-33c9d243cf7c" CreationDate="2015-10-02T03:09:49.373" UserId="440" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="415f6026-a059-4fae-b3cd-7efa6ffa542f" CreationDate="2015-10-02T03:15:36.737" UserId="432" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="I'm a graduate student looking to test an experimental [spectral imager](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectral_imaging). It's basically a camera that can see lots of different colors instead of just red, green, and blue (RGB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a small display that I can easily use to display our test images:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in width&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in height&#xD;&#xA;- At least 256x256 resolution &amp;ndash; the higher the pixels per inch the better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 colors, RGB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- Portable (I need to take this across the US multiple times in the next 6 months)&#xD;&#xA;- Less than $2,000 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like the display on the Apple Watch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the important part: Using a computer, I need to able to set the individual pixels to either red, green, or blue. I would like to use it as a second monitor for my computer. So an HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort connection would be ideal. I'd also be okay with a USB-controlled display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My technical background: I'm comfortable with MATLAB, Windows 7, OS X. I also have about 6 months of experience with Python and LabView. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a strong electronics background; don't ask me to use something that requires building/soldering a circuit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="501" RevisionGUID="20856438-828b-478e-b222-f56cca05a81e" CreationDate="2015-10-02T04:03:32.580" UserId="65" Text="My wife and I have different noise-cancelling headphones that we prefer for air travel, but they are too quiet when connected to an iPad with a headphone splitter.  I purchased a portable batter-powered splitter/amp, but the volume outputs are so different that we can't both comfortably hear.  I need a headphone splitter/amplifier with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * standard headphone jack input&#xD;&#xA; * portable (pocket sized)&#xD;&#xA; * battery powered&#xD;&#xA; * at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA; * separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA; * $50 or less&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also accept a multi-device solution (separate in-line volume controls, for example), as long as the total price still fits." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="501" RevisionGUID="20856438-828b-478e-b222-f56cca05a81e" CreationDate="2015-10-02T04:03:32.580" UserId="65" Text="Portable Headphone Amplifier/Splitter w/ Separate Volume Control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="501" RevisionGUID="20856438-828b-478e-b222-f56cca05a81e" CreationDate="2015-10-02T04:03:32.580" UserId="65" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="014e445f-720f-4a9b-994c-899c220536bd" CreationDate="2015-10-02T05:28:31.210" UserId="441" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="ce04e5f7-2d55-49e0-b440-45959d3f0d28" CreationDate="2015-10-02T05:39:47.407" UserId="442" Text="I am in need of some memory for my incoming Brix Pro. The spec sheet says it only accepts 1.3Vdc DDR3L. A quick shop around and I've found 1.3V DDR3L SOMDIMMs which have better timings versus 1.3Vdc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the difference between 1.3Vdc and 1.3V? Can I use 1.3V RAM in place of 1.3Vdc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1776" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="ce04e5f7-2d55-49e0-b440-45959d3f0d28" CreationDate="2015-10-02T05:39:47.407" UserId="442" Text="SODIMM: 1.3Vdc vs 1.3V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1777" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="ce04e5f7-2d55-49e0-b440-45959d3f0d28" CreationDate="2015-10-02T05:39:47.407" UserId="442" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1779" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="8d733d56-2b37-4cf0-ae60-f994eb1e36ae" CreationDate="2015-10-02T07:19:53.963" UserId="441" Comment="added 838 characters in body" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response to comment: well, they meet your requirements of being &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* pocket-sized: &quot;1.6 x 0.4 x 1.6 inches ; 0.6 ounces&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* battery powered: &quot;1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included) [...] Built-in rechargeable battery provides up to 10 hours of normal use. Mini USB charger port can be used with any USB power source.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for &quot;standard headphone jack input&quot;, I'm guessing you want 3.5mm jack. The Amazon page fails to say the jack size, but in [this video review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41nu3hIlkks) you can see it's a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're using two devices, these following requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA;* separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are trivially met (2 outputs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say (in those reviews) that reliability of FiiO products is mediocre though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1781" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="853fb5de-4829-48e3-a600-fd3e25a91376" CreationDate="2015-10-02T07:38:58.167" UserId="441" Comment="added 254 characters in body" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response to comment: well, they meet your requirements of being &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* pocket-sized: &quot;1.6 x 0.4 x 1.6 inches ; 0.6 ounces&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* battery powered: &quot;1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included) [...] Built-in rechargeable battery provides up to 10 hours of normal use. Mini USB charger port can be used with any USB power source.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for &quot;standard headphone jack input&quot;, I'm guessing you want 3.5mm jack. The Amazon page fails to say the jack size, but in [this video review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41nu3hIlkks) you can see it's a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're using two devices, these following requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA;* separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are trivially met (2 outputs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for price, &quot;$27.99 &amp; FREE Shipping on orders over $35&quot; at Amazon. So if you buy two right now... $56 shipped. (Since you already have one amp, you could just keep that and buy just one other single-output amp [this or another], saving some dough.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say (in those reviews) that reliability of FiiO products is mediocre though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="c2f1314e-81a2-40b7-ac3f-d44333facd27" CreationDate="2015-10-02T08:15:38.123" UserId="441" Comment="added 426 characters in body" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response to comment: well, they meet your requirements of being &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* pocket-sized: &quot;1.6 x 0.4 x 1.6 inches ; 0.6 ounces&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* battery powered: &quot;1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included) [...] Built-in rechargeable battery provides up to 10 hours of normal use. Mini USB charger port can be used with any USB power source.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for &quot;standard headphone jack input&quot;, I'm guessing you want 3.5mm jack. The Amazon page fails to say the jack size, but in [this video review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41nu3hIlkks) you can see it's a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're using two devices, these following requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA;* separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are trivially met (2 outputs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for price, &quot;$27.99 &amp; FREE Shipping on orders over $35&quot; at Amazon. So if you buy two right now... $56 shipped. (Since you already have one amp, you could just keep that and buy just one other single-output amp [this or another], saving some dough.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say (in those reviews) that reliability of FiiO products is mediocre though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here comes the stuff you probably don't care about. The opamp (i.e. the chip that determines sound quality) inside this FiiO E6 is an AD8692 ($0.60 list price in 1K quantities). Most the parts cost goes into making this thing run a Li battery. The opamp is a surface mount part, so you have to be pretty adept to replace it with something better, but [some have pulled it off](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNplJdJF8JI)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1788" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="022ae202-9c2d-4905-9ff5-1dbd103bdcbd" CreationDate="2015-10-02T08:23:26.573" UserId="441" Comment="that is" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response to comment: well, they meet your requirements of being &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* pocket-sized: &quot;1.6 x 0.4 x 1.6 inches ; 0.6 ounces&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* battery powered: &quot;1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included) [...] Built-in rechargeable battery provides up to 10 hours of normal use. Mini USB charger port can be used with any USB power source.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for &quot;standard headphone jack input&quot;, I'm guessing you want 3.5mm jack. The Amazon page fails to say the jack size, but in [this video review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41nu3hIlkks) you can see it's a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're using two devices, these following requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA;* separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are trivially met (2 outputs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for price, &quot;$27.99 &amp; FREE Shipping on orders over $35&quot; at Amazon. So if you buy two right now... $56 shipped. (Since you already have one amp, you could just keep that and buy just one other single-output amp [this or another], saving some dough.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say (in those reviews) that reliability of FiiO products is mediocre though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here comes the stuff you probably don't care about. The opamp (i.e. the chip that determines sound quality) inside this FiiO E6 is an AD8692 ($0.60 list price in 1K quantities). Most the parts cost goes into making this thing run a Li battery. The opamp is a surface mount (SMT) part, so you have to be pretty adept to replace it with something better in your garage, but [some have pulled it off](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNplJdJF8JI) without professional SMT equipment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="502" RevisionGUID="d36899d1-c21c-4638-8387-2cc128ee39c2" CreationDate="2015-10-02T08:46:40.340" UserId="441" Comment="added 137 characters in body" Text="Maybe two of [FiiO-E6](http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8)? A few dollars over your budget (for two). I have not used them myself, but are recommended reviewed on http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response to comment: well, they meet your requirements of being &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* pocket-sized: &quot;1.6 x 0.4 x 1.6 inches ; 0.6 ounces&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* battery powered: &quot;1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included) [...] Built-in rechargeable battery provides up to 10 hours of normal use. Mini USB charger port can be used with any USB power source.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for &quot;standard headphone jack input&quot;, I'm guessing you want 3.5mm jack. The Amazon page fails to say the jack size, but in [this video review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41nu3hIlkks) you can see it's a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're using two devices, these following requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 2 standard headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA;* separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are trivially met (2 outputs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for price, &quot;$27.99 &amp; FREE Shipping on orders over $35&quot; at Amazon. So if you buy two right now... $56 shipped. (Since you already have one amp, you could just keep that and buy just one other single-output amp [this or another], saving some dough.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say (in those reviews) that reliability of FiiO products is mediocre though. The most geeky/in-depth review of it you can find is probably [the one by NwAvGuy](http://nwavguy.blogspot.ro/2011/11/fiio-e6-amp.html). His review can probably summarized by quoting this bit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  The E6 is not an especially clean or well behaved amplifier but in light of the very modest $30 price it’s likely acceptable for many applications for those on a budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here comes the stuff you probably don't care about. The opamp (i.e. the chip that determines sound quality) inside this FiiO E6 is an AD8692 ($0.60 list price in 1K quantities). Most the parts cost goes into making this thing run a Li battery. The opamp is a surface mount (SMT) part, so you have to be pretty adept to replace it with something better in your garage, but [some have pulled it off](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNplJdJF8JI) without professional SMT equipment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="505" RevisionGUID="ace68c93-5b38-4c4e-8ac8-ae2e8ee6e622" CreationDate="2015-10-02T13:38:10.497" UserId="441" Text="Asus Xonar DX 7.1 is [on sale at Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006) for $75+ $4 shipping - $10MIR = $69.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 7.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims 116dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1800" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="501" RevisionGUID="f944c5ea-5f79-46de-a1a8-fa1625102a6b" CreationDate="2015-10-02T13:59:03.890" UserId="65" Comment="fixed typo, added specific specification of which &quot;standard&quot;" Text="My wife and I have different noise-cancelling headphones that we prefer for air travel, but they are too quiet when connected to an iPad with a headphone splitter.  I purchased a portable battery-powered splitter/amp, but the volume outputs are so different that we can't both comfortably hear.  I need a headphone splitter/amplifier with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * standard 3.5mm headphone jack input&#xD;&#xA; * portable (pocket sized)&#xD;&#xA; * battery powered&#xD;&#xA; * at least 2 standard 3.5mm headphone outputs, preferably 3&#xD;&#xA; * separate volume control for each output&#xD;&#xA; * $50 or less&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also accept a multi-device solution (separate in-line volume controls, for example), as long as the total price still fits." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="506" RevisionGUID="b3fca05c-d5ec-414f-b65b-c44265f8ddcb" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:06:40.657" UserId="448" Text="I have several Bluetooth speakers I can use on my smartphone but I'm wondering if there is any way to connect them via Bluetooth to my PC?  I thought there may be a gadget out there which connects my smartphone to my PC or maybe even some software which makes this connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe there's a special dongle I need?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1802" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="506" RevisionGUID="b3fca05c-d5ec-414f-b65b-c44265f8ddcb" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:06:40.657" UserId="448" Text="Bluetooth Speaker for Smartphone on PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1803" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="506" RevisionGUID="b3fca05c-d5ec-414f-b65b-c44265f8ddcb" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:06:40.657" UserId="448" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1804" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="505" RevisionGUID="9de198f8-4300-4626-8624-5809182723fe" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:30:54.563" UserId="441" Comment="added 1014 characters in body" Text="Asus Xonar DX 7.1 is [on sale at Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006) for $75+ $4 shipping - $10MIR = $69.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 7.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims 116dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response: No, I don't have first hand experience with this card, but I do with another Asus (external) sound product that's ok. This was the only card that I found meets both your noise level and price requirements. If you relax the noise level a bit, you get much cheaper stuff, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX 5.1 PCIe Sound Card with 600 ohm Headphone Amp](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=29-102-062)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 5.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims *106dB*&#xD;&#xA;- $32.99 + shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you wonder, the &quot;600 ohm Headphone Amp&quot; means it has a separate, relatively powerful headphone amplifier onboard, which can drive &quot;difficult&quot; (that is high-impedance) headphone like Sennheiser HD600 (which cost about 10x what this card does, so it's a bit questionable that you'd want this cheap card for those). This feature doesn't affect/matter for the 5.1 speakers output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="505" RevisionGUID="48948251-5d2e-4d14-8524-d943ceca4d3b" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:36:47.093" UserId="441" Comment="added 1014 characters in body" Text="Asus Xonar DX 7.1 is [on sale at Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006) for $75+ $4 shipping - $10MIR = $69.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 7.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims 116dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response: No, I don't have first hand experience with this card, but I do with another Asus (external) sound product that's ok. This was the only card that I found meets both your noise level and price requirements. If you relax the noise level a bit, you get much cheaper stuff, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX 5.1 PCIe Sound Card with 600 ohm Headphone Amp](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=29-102-062)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 5.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims *106dB*&#xD;&#xA;- $32.99 + shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you wonder, the &quot;600 ohm Headphone Amp&quot; means it has a separate, relatively powerful headphone amplifier onboard, which can drive &quot;difficult&quot; (that is high-impedance) headphone like Sennheiser HD600 (which cost about 10x what this card does, so it's a bit questionable that you'd want this cheap card for those). This feature doesn't affect/matter for the 5.1 speakers output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And since you're probably going to ask... no I don't first-hand experience with this card either. The last Creative (proper) card I had was an Audigy 2 (PCI); quality was as advertised. I also have an E-MU 1212M, which is their professional brand basically. Outside your price range by a factor of at least 2 and not 5.1 etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1806" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="505" RevisionGUID="2e407db3-c4e9-4718-b4de-9607094edc79" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:50:05.283" UserId="441" Comment="duh" Text="Asus Xonar DX 7.1 is [on sale at Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006) for $75+ $4 shipping - $10MIR = $69.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 7.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims 116dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response: No, I don't have first hand experience with this card, but I do with another Asus (external) sound product that's ok. This was the only card that I found meets both your noise level and price requirements. If you relax the noise level a bit, you get much cheaper stuff, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX 5.1 PCIe Sound Card with 600 ohm Headphone Amp](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=29-102-062)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 5.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims *106dB*&#xD;&#xA;- $32.99 + free shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you wonder, the &quot;600 ohm Headphone Amp&quot; means it has a separate, relatively powerful headphone amplifier onboard, which can drive &quot;difficult&quot; (that is high-impedance) headphone like Sennheiser HD600 (which cost about 10x what this card does, so it's a bit questionable that you'd want this cheap card for those). This feature doesn't affect/matter for the 5.1 speakers output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And since you're probably going to ask... no I don't first-hand experience with this card either. The last Creative (proper) card I had was an Audigy 2 (PCI); quality was as advertised. I also have an E-MU 1212M, which is their professional brand basically. Outside your price range by a factor of at least 2 and not 5.1 etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="505" RevisionGUID="fcef363f-4508-4c8c-9b65-cfcadbd9e4eb" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:09:08.833" UserId="441" Comment="might as well say" Text="Asus Xonar DX 7.1 is [on sale at Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006) for $75+ $4 shipping - $10MIR = $69.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 7.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims 116dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response: No, I don't have first hand experience with this card, but I do with another Asus (external) sound product, Xonar U7, that's ok. This was the only card that I found meets both your noise level and price requirements. If you relax the noise level a bit, you get much cheaper stuff, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX 5.1 PCIe Sound Card with 600 ohm Headphone Amp](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=29-102-062)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe x1 interface? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 5.1 channels? 5.1&#xD;&#xA;- 24-bit audio output? Yes&#xD;&#xA;- at least 96KHz sample rate? 192KHz&#xD;&#xA;- high SNR (at least 108dB)? claims *106dB*&#xD;&#xA;- $32.99 + free shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you wonder, the &quot;600 ohm Headphone Amp&quot; means it has a separate, relatively powerful headphone amplifier onboard, which can drive &quot;difficult&quot; (that is high-impedance) headphone like Sennheiser HD600 (which cost about 10x what this card does, so it's a bit questionable that you'd want this cheap card for those). This feature doesn't affect/matter for the 5.1 speakers output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And since you're probably going to ask... no I don't first-hand experience with this card either. The last Creative (proper) card I had was an Audigy 2 (PCI); quality was as advertised. I also have an E-MU 1212M, which is their professional brand basically; outside your price range by a factor of at least 2 and not 5.1 etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="507" RevisionGUID="c4634c46-31a1-4de7-8b25-41d3ef2c6e78" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:24:46.177" UserId="57" Text="You need a small dongle that adds Bluetooth capability to your computer. I recommend something small like the [AZiO Micro Bluetooth Adapter][1]. This device is under $15 on Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![AZiO Bluetooth][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This device plugs into a USB port and enables Bluetooth communications with various devices via Bluetooth (speakers, printers, keyboards/mice, phones, and more).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After installation of the drivers, you will perform standard Bluetooth device pairing to get your speakers to communicate with the newly enabled dongle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hTnLi.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10" RevisionGUID="9ff1c680-7197-4fb8-80b3-9773ac191e3d" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:55:18.903" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="General guidance for [buying cameras alone][1] can be applied here. There are several important aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Pixels**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the resolution that the image sensor is capable of capturing. The greater the number, the more detail you'll get in your image. This does, however, combine with the next point:&#xD;&#xA;- **Sensor size**  &#xD;&#xA;  The bigger the sensor, the bigger the pixels can be. And the bigger the pixels, the better your image quality. 'Nuff said.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom type**  &#xD;&#xA;  Only one part of zoom, this. Look at optical vs. digital zoom - in short, optical zoom uses lenses to make the image look closer to the sensor, whereas digital simply scales up the image. Optical results in better quality because the image size stays the same, but it's generally bulky because of the need for a moving lens. Digital on the other hand scales everything up, losing detail and resolution and also making noise more apparent. Most phones use digital simply because they don't have room to include a zoom lens in their cameras.&#xD;&#xA;- **Zoom range**  &#xD;&#xA;  This is the number like that comes in the format &quot;8x digital zoom&quot; or &quot;32x optical zoom&quot;. The bigger the number, the further away you can sense things from. Take care, though - big digital zooms often result in pixelated images. With a phone, you can often simply get closer to your subject - an 8x is often adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/buying-advice/top-tips-for-deciding-what-camera-to-buy-13255" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1810" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="506" RevisionGUID="3d723bfb-bc8e-4c58-9747-b9b8975ca89f" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:15:45.667" UserId="8" Comment="better title" Text="What tools are there to connect a Bluetooth speaker to my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="508" RevisionGUID="3deb0f14-ca49-48d3-ba2c-6090adcf7936" CreationDate="2015-10-02T17:46:44.007" UserId="449" Text="I tend to use my phone as almost a mini-laptop. What that means is, I use a lot of data whether it's web browsing, looking at funny pictures, streaming music/videos, using Skype, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my previous phone (an iPhone), intense data usage can drain my battery at a rate as fast as 20%/hour. This means that I can only use my phone for 5 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, I am looking for recommendations for a functionally high end Android phone with emphasis on battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More specifically, it should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Run any reasonably programmed Android app/games without any noticeable slow down.&#xD;&#xA; - Fits in my pocket,&#xD;&#xA;- In fact, I think the iPhone 6 is too big. I actually prefer a size smaller than that. But as long as it can fit in my pocket I'm fine.&#xD;&#xA; - Can sustain for as long as possible (preferably 24 hour) under intense data usage.&#xD;&#xA; - Is actually a phone. (i.e. can make calls, send text, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything else is a bonus, but do please let me know if there are any major caveats. (e.g. if the phone typically dies in 1 month, let me know about that..)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="508" RevisionGUID="3deb0f14-ca49-48d3-ba2c-6090adcf7936" CreationDate="2015-10-02T17:46:44.007" UserId="449" Text="Android Phone with Long Battery Life under Heavy Data Usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="508" RevisionGUID="3deb0f14-ca49-48d3-ba2c-6090adcf7936" CreationDate="2015-10-02T17:46:44.007" UserId="449" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1816" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="506" RevisionGUID="b0d61c71-821c-42c0-a0cb-e0fd963bb8fd" CreationDate="2015-10-02T17:53:34.677" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="509" RevisionGUID="aae27763-6ae5-4001-a26d-de6d61a5138b" CreationDate="2015-10-02T18:27:17.597" UserId="122" Text="Unless you go for the [&quot;ghetto cooling&quot;][1] option you are not likely to find any after-market cooling options for a lower end card like the 430.  [This one][2] supports the 440 but does not list the 430 and I suspect it would not be an improvement in terms of freeing up the neighboring slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any other full size PCI-E slots available (x4 or x8)? If so, your x1 card will work in that slot without any modification and that may solve your issues from a slot perspective.  You could then look for a replacement heatsink from a second hand or broken card to replace the one that has been modified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.overclock.net/t/1279147/guys-please-help-gt430-fan-failure&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/accelero-l2-plus.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="5e3236f9-3524-49ec-b274-93a94880c3fd" CreationDate="2015-10-03T09:55:32.447" UserDisplayName="user453" Text="Can you recommend a good monitor (high definition, Retina, HD, I do not know what to call it) that gives me the feeling of a Retina display like the MacBook's one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it with a MacBook Pro Retina 13 &quot;2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Dell U2515H 25&quot; and is not right for me. Too big, I can not work and especially I do not see as I will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try to max with a 23&quot;, but maybe 21&quot; would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AND ABOVE ALL I wish it was in high quality, so many many pixels per inch: DPI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Retina MacBook 13 2015 spread on a 13-inch 2560x1600 resolution: 220DPI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like 21 or 23? I work as programmer and writer and spend many hours at the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1826" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="5e3236f9-3524-49ec-b274-93a94880c3fd" CreationDate="2015-10-03T09:55:32.447" UserDisplayName="user453" Text="Monitor 21“ or 23” inch for Macbook Pro 13. Not 25“ or 27” because too big" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1827" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="5e3236f9-3524-49ec-b274-93a94880c3fd" CreationDate="2015-10-03T09:55:32.447" UserDisplayName="user453" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="511" RevisionGUID="95dbca4d-57dd-4f07-9947-92956922f44f" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:23:36.903" UserId="409" Text="Your best bet is likely to be to get either a smartphone with interchangeable batteries and carry multiple ones, or get an external power pack. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [limited sample size][1] survey of a number of smartphones show that for web browsing, the best performer (iPhone 6) drained 35% battery in 150 minutes, which implies a 7.5 hour battery life for web browsing over WiFi. Since data using the cellular radio [consumes more battery life][2] than WiFi, it would likely have even lower battery life. Therefore, it is highly unlikely any existing smartphone has &gt;24h of battery life on mobile data. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A power pack such as [this one][3] can provide enough power for continuous web usage. Assuming the same iPhone 6, the 16000mAh model can provide power for over 30 hours straight, or you can reduce the capacity if you want to carry less battery weight around.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/which-phone-has-the-best-battery-life&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.androidcentral.com/shutting-wi-fi-it-worth-it&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.mi.com/sg/powerbank/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1829" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="511" RevisionGUID="56ef8458-186f-4e10-97f0-b8bb03a9c3d6" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:31:08.283" UserId="409" Comment="added 264 characters in body" Text="Your best bet is likely to be to get either a smartphone with interchangeable batteries and carry multiple ones, or get an external power pack. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [limited sample size][1] survey of a number of smartphones show that for web browsing, the best performer (iPhone 6) drained 35% battery in 150 minutes, which implies a 7.5 hour battery life for web browsing over WiFi. Since data using the cellular radio [consumes more battery life][2] than WiFi, it would likely have even lower battery life (which matches the 5 hours you are getting on a full charge). Therefore, it is highly unlikely any existing smartphone has &gt;24h of battery life on mobile data. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A power pack such as [this one][3] can provide enough power for continuous web usage. Assuming the same iPhone 6, the 16000mAh model can provide power for over 30 hours straight, or you can reduce the capacity if you want to carry less battery weight around. The battery pack weighs around ~400g on its own, and would not fit inside an average pocket, but if you are on the go (eg on a train/bus without a power socket, or on a bicycle), it would be a good idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/which-phone-has-the-best-battery-life&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.androidcentral.com/shutting-wi-fi-it-worth-it&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.mi.com/sg/powerbank/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1830" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="111" RevisionGUID="a1b4a291-69a6-4cc9-a4f5-bfb607db68bb" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:32:04.497" UserId="97" Comment="Add links to Wikipedia definitions of technical terms" Text="**Security**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can the [router][1] be configured such that future configuration changes can only be made from the [LAN][2] and not from the [WAN][3]?&#xD;&#xA;- Is the router protected from [XSS][4]/[XSRF][5] attacks which could let websites visited by computers on your LAN get control over the router?&#xD;&#xA;- Does the vendor provide [firmware][6] [security][7] updates, and are they easy to install? Is it also easy to downgrade to a previous firmware version?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv4 NAT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess more than 99% of users currently need [NAT][8] for [IPv4][9] traffic, you can expect pretty much all routers to support this, but the quality varies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How many connection tracking entries can the router handle?&#xD;&#xA;- What happens when the limit is exceeded?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to [forward][10] ports from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to forward [protocols][11] without port numbers from WAN to LAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the [DHCP][12] server on the router be configured with both static and dynamic assignments?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCP server on the router &#xD;&#xA;be configured to be hand out [DNS][13] server addresses of your own choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IPv6**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current [trends][14] indicate that the majority of users will be using [IPv6][15] three years from now. If you intend to use the router for more than three years, you are likely going to need IPv6.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does the router support it at all?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured over IPv6? (This is not critical, but it can be very convenient).&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured with static IPv6 on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router be configured to act as DHCPv6 client on the WAN?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the DHCPv6 client request a [prefix delegation][16] from the [ISP][17]?&#xD;&#xA;- Can the router forward packets in [hardware][18]? (If not, the [CPU][19] may become a bottleneck)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with dual [SSID][20]?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it be configured with a guest [segment][21] which cannot communicate with wired LAN ports?&#xD;&#xA;- Can it measure ambient [noise][22] level across the [frequency][23] band and automatically choose the channel with least noise?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that if reliably low [latency][24] and low packet loss is needed, [WiFi][25] will never beat a wired connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Router_(computing)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_area_network&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wide_area_network&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-site_scripting&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-site_request_forgery&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firmware&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_security&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_address_translation&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPv4&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_forwarding&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transport_layer&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_Host_Configuration_Protocol&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domain_Name_System&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://www.google.com/intl/en/ipv6/statistics.html&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPv6&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prefix_delegation&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_service_provider&#xD;&#xA;  [18]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Content-addressable_memory#Example_applications&#xD;&#xA;  [19]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_processing_unit&#xD;&#xA;  [20]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Service_set_(802.11_network)#Service_set_identification_.28SSID.29&#xD;&#xA;  [21]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_segment&#xD;&#xA;  [22]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise_(radio)&#xD;&#xA;  [23]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radio_frequency&#xD;&#xA;  [24]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latency_(engineering)&#xD;&#xA;  [25]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="4d579418-0762-45b5-befe-7fe634c82156" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:57:23.830" UserId="313" Text="**Desired Specifications:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-movement depending on the movement of the speaker  (Auto-follow)&#xD;&#xA; - HD resolution capture&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible for live streaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="4d579418-0762-45b5-befe-7fe634c82156" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:57:23.830" UserId="313" Text="What are some nice video cams for recording talks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="4d579418-0762-45b5-befe-7fe634c82156" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:57:23.830" UserId="313" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="0e290625-23a9-4645-b947-11793d7e4f43" CreationDate="2015-10-03T14:38:42.883" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; formatting" Text="Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-movement depending on the movement of the speaker (Auto-follow)&#xD;&#xA; - HD resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with live streaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1835" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="0e290625-23a9-4645-b947-11793d7e4f43" CreationDate="2015-10-03T14:38:42.883" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; formatting" Text="What are some nice video cameras for recording talks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1836" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="0e290625-23a9-4645-b947-11793d7e4f43" CreationDate="2015-10-03T14:38:42.883" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 313 edit id of 142" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="514" RevisionGUID="25e17ff8-249c-49c7-a5c2-9e98973f8de6" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:31:33.743" UserId="54" Text="First of all, it would not be easy to find a monitor with similar DPI as MacBook between 21&quot; and 23&quot;. You must choose between screen size and pixel density. However, it is not very convenient to have a very high resolution on a relatively small display. Take it into consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. If you change your mind and want non-Apple product as an alternative to Thunderbolt Monitor (27&quot;), think about [Dell Ultra HD 5K Monitor UP2715K 27-Inch][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on http://isthisretina.com/:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you really want something smaller, then I'd recommend [Dell P2415Q][3]. It is 23.8&quot; but has Ultra HD resolution (4K):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. If screen size between 21&quot; and 23&quot; is a must-have, then choose [Dell P2214H (21.5 inch Widescreen LCD)][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 21.5&quot; - meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD 1920 x 1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA; - ultra-wide 178°/178° viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - VESA compatibility&#xD;&#xA; - monitor stand has full adjustability features&#xD;&#xA; - easily transition from landscape to portrait orientation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-UP2715K-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00OKSFXZU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yfv8d.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2415Q-23-8-Inch-Ultra-Monitor/dp/B00R420WNM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7diSl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2214H-21-5-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00EQAG31A&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pinHA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gPwKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="514" RevisionGUID="e31a4647-cc3b-42bf-80f1-8869b0cccef2" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:36:38.393" UserId="54" Comment="edited body" Text="First of all, it would not be easy to find a monitor with similar DPI as MacBook between 21&quot; and 23&quot;. You must choose between screen size and pixel density. However, it is not very convenient to have a very high resolution on a relatively small display. Take it into consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. If you change your mind and want non-Apple product as an alternative to Thunderbolt Monitor (27&quot;), think about [Dell Ultra HD 5K Monitor UP2715K 27-Inch][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on http://isthisretina.com/:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you really want something smaller, then I'd recommend [Dell P2415Q][3]. It is 23.8&quot; but has Ultra HD resolution (4K):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. If screen size between 21&quot; and 23&quot; is a must-have, then choose [Dell P2214H (21.5 inch Widescreen LCD)][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 21.5&quot; - meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD 1920 x 1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA; - ultra-wide 178°/178° viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - VESA compatibility&#xD;&#xA; - monitor stand has full adjustability features&#xD;&#xA; - easily transition from landscape to portrait orientation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-UP2715K-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00OKSFXZU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7NMhr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2415Q-23-8-Inch-Ultra-Monitor/dp/B00R420WNM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7diSl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2214H-21-5-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00EQAG31A&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pinHA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gPwKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1842" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="514" RevisionGUID="f589bdb2-1fba-4305-baae-83d2abbed905" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:44:23.820" UserId="54" Comment="edited body" Text="First of all, it would not be easy to find a monitor with similar DPI as MacBook between 21&quot; and 23&quot;. You must choose between screen size and pixel density. However, it is not very convenient to have a very high resolution on a relatively small display. Take it into consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. If you change your mind and want non-Apple product as an alternative to Thunderbolt Monitor (27&quot;), think about [Dell Ultra HD 5K Monitor UP2715K 27-Inch][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on http://isthisretina.com/:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you really want something smaller, then I'd recommend [Dell P2415Q][3]. It is 23.8&quot; but has Ultra HD resolution (4K):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the gallery [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell P2415Q:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4K LCD monitor (2M:1, 300 cd/m2, 3840 x 2160, 8ms)&#xD;&#xA; - wide colour coverage at 99% sRGB&#xD;&#xA; - full adjustability (stand enables tilt (5° forward or 21° backward)&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.2 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. If screen size between 21&quot; and 23&quot; is a must-have, then choose [Dell P2214H (21.5 inch Widescreen LCD)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 21.5&quot; - meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD 1920 x 1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA; - ultra-wide 178°/178° viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - VESA compatibility&#xD;&#xA; - monitor stand has full adjustability features&#xD;&#xA; - easily transition from landscape to portrait orientation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-UP2715K-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00OKSFXZU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7NMhr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2415Q-23-8-Inch-Ultra-Monitor/dp/B00R420WNM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dell.com/content/products/superview.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=19&amp;l=en&amp;pageoverride=gallery_view1&amp;s=dhs&amp;xdb=Z2xvYmFsOnByb2R1Y3RzOm1vbml0b3JzOnN1cGVydmlldzpkZWxsLXAyNDE1cS1tb25pdG9yI3JlZ2lvbg==&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/31PwS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7diSl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2214H-21-5-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00EQAG31A&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pinHA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gPwKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1843" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="514" RevisionGUID="19da89be-1c98-4450-aeda-a7893d144314" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:50:41.067" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="First of all, it would not be easy to find a monitor with a similar DPI as MacBook between 21&quot; and 23&quot;. You must choose between screen size and pixel density. However, it is not very convenient to have a very high resolution on a relatively small display. Take it into consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. If you change your mind and want non-Apple product as an alternative to Thunderbolt Monitor (27&quot;), think about [Dell Ultra HD 5K Monitor UP2715K 27-Inch][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on http://isthisretina.com/:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you really want something smaller, then I'd recommend [Dell P2415Q][3]. It is 23.8&quot; but has an Ultra HD resolution (4K):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the gallery [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell P2415Q:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4K LCD monitor (2M:1, 300 cd/m2, 3840 x 2160, 8ms)&#xD;&#xA; - wide colour coverage at 99% sRGB&#xD;&#xA; - full adjustability (stand enables tilt (5° forward or 21° backward)&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.2 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. If screen size between 21&quot; and 23&quot; is a must-have, then choose [Dell P2214H (21.5 inch Widescreen LCD)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 21.5&quot; - meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD 1920 x 1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA; - ultra-wide 178°/178° viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - VESA compatibility&#xD;&#xA; - monitor stand has full adjustability features&#xD;&#xA; - easily transition from landscape to portrait orientation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-UP2715K-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00OKSFXZU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7NMhr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2415Q-23-8-Inch-Ultra-Monitor/dp/B00R420WNM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dell.com/content/products/superview.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=19&amp;l=en&amp;pageoverride=gallery_view1&amp;s=dhs&amp;xdb=Z2xvYmFsOnByb2R1Y3RzOm1vbml0b3JzOnN1cGVydmlldzpkZWxsLXAyNDE1cS1tb25pdG9yI3JlZ2lvbg==&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/31PwS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7diSl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2214H-21-5-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00EQAG31A&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pinHA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gPwKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1844" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="44037344-3e17-4570-95c5-6e7324cbe3f6" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:03:43.887" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="Can you recommend a good monitor with a high quality display which gives me the feeling of a Retina display like the MacBook's one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it with a MacBook Pro Retina 13&quot; 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Dell U2515H 25&quot; and is not right for me. Too big, I can not work and especially I do not see as I will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try to max with a 23&quot;, but maybe 21&quot; would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And above all: high dpi rate**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Retina MacBook 13 2015 spread on a 13-inch 2560x1600 resolution: 220 DPI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work as programmer and writer and spend many hours at the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1845" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="44037344-3e17-4570-95c5-6e7324cbe3f6" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:03:43.887" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="21“ or 23” monitor for Macbook Pro 13. Not 25“ or 27”" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1846" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="44037344-3e17-4570-95c5-6e7324cbe3f6" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:03:43.887" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 8, 453 edit id of 141" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="515" RevisionGUID="42682241-720a-4cb9-b819-8405a6581c97" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:13:19.193" UserId="457" Text="Sony's [Xperia Z3 Compact](http://www.androidcentral.com/sony-xperia-z3-z3-compact-review) and [Xperia Z5 Compact](http://www.anandtech.com/show/9596/sony-launches-the-xperia-z5-z5-compact-and-z5-premium-with-uhd-display) are about the same size as the iPhone 6 (not plus). They also seem to be the only (as of beginning of Oct, 2015) high end Android devices with screens under 5 inches. Sony's Z3 and Z3 compact have some very excellent [battery life](http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2402573) compared to other Android manufacturers. The Z5 compact is expected to be released in October, and thus has not been reviewed yet. It does use the very hot Snapdragon 810, so it remains to be seen if the extra 100 maH (to 2700 mAh) in the battery is enough to last as long as the Snapdragon 801 and 2600 mAh battery in the Z3 Compact. Both the Z3 Compact and the Z5 compact have non-removable batteries, so if you need more life than they provide, you'll have to use an external solution rather than swapping the internal batteries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that in general, larger phones' battery life will be less affected by radio usage than smaller phones, because more of the power drain shifts to power the display, reducing the *relative* amount used by the radio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="514" RevisionGUID="d489675a-74f0-4fc5-b55e-c3a00d287fc2" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:23:23.110" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="First of all, it would not be easy to find a monitor with a similar DPI as MacBook between 21&quot; and 23&quot;. You must choose between screen size and pixel density. However, it is not very convenient to have a very high resolution on a relatively small display. Take it into consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. If you change your mind and want non-Apple product as an alternative to Thunderbolt Monitor (27&quot;), think about [Dell Ultra HD 5K Monitor UP2715K 27-Inch][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on http://isthisretina.com/:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you really want something smaller, then I'd recommend [Dell P2415Q][3]. It is 23.8&quot; but has an Ultra HD resolution (4K):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the gallery [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell P2415Q:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4K LCD monitor (2M:1, 300 cd/m2, 3840 x 2160, 8ms)&#xD;&#xA; - wide colour coverage at 99% sRGB&#xD;&#xA; - full adjustability (stand enables tilt 5° forward or 21° backward)&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.2 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. If screen size between 21&quot; and 23&quot; is a must-have, then choose [Dell P2214H (21.5 inch Widescreen LCD)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 21.5&quot; - meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD 1920 x 1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA; - ultra-wide 178°/178° viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - VESA compatibility&#xD;&#xA; - monitor stand has full adjustability features&#xD;&#xA; - easily transition from landscape to portrait orientation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-UP2715K-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00OKSFXZU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7NMhr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2415Q-23-8-Inch-Ultra-Monitor/dp/B00R420WNM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dell.com/content/products/superview.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=19&amp;l=en&amp;pageoverride=gallery_view1&amp;s=dhs&amp;xdb=Z2xvYmFsOnByb2R1Y3RzOm1vbml0b3JzOnN1cGVydmlldzpkZWxsLXAyNDE1cS1tb25pdG9yI3JlZ2lvbg==&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/31PwS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7diSl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-P2214H-21-5-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00EQAG31A&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pinHA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gPwKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1849" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="516" RevisionGUID="98c94019-45d0-4aca-9765-57d03059053e" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:33:28.603" UserId="457" Text="Belford's answer is probably the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, if you search around, you may be able to find a used [IBM T220 or T221](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors). These monitors were sold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  between 2001 and 2005, with a native resolution of 3840×2400 pixels (WQUXGA) on a screen with a diagonal of 22.2 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Their pixel density works out to 204 ppi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to their age, they preceded HDMI (mostly) and DisplayPort (entirely), instead relying on multiple DVI connectors, so you will need adaptors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="516" RevisionGUID="bea112d3-098c-4129-a35d-d6e453682891" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:13:58.920" UserId="457" Comment="Added information about refresh rate" Text="Belford's answer is probably the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, if you search around, you may be able to find a used [IBM T220 or T221](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors) or one of the rebrands. These monitors were sold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  between 2001 and 2005, with a native resolution of 3840×2400 pixels (WQUXGA) on a screen with a diagonal of 22.2 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Their pixel density works out to 204 ppi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to their age, they preceded HDMI (mostly) and DisplayPort (entirely), instead relying on multiple DVI connectors, so you will need adaptors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, their maximum refresh rate is 48 Hz, but may be lower depending on exactly how you connect to them. They should be fine for programming, writing, and 24-30 fps video, but they may be too slow for games and some (i.e. 60 fps) video." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="518" RevisionGUID="0df43be3-f87e-4f96-a11d-aa22d09ceee1" CreationDate="2015-10-03T21:30:05.973" UserId="241" Text="There's no difference between &quot;1.3V&quot; and &quot;1.3Vdc&quot;: they both refer to RAM that works off of 1.3-volt electricity.  The &quot;dc&quot; bit specifies &quot;direct current&quot;, but since everything in a computer is direct current, saying so is a bit redundant." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="519" RevisionGUID="588a9209-1fcf-4629-9bc4-5986f3cfb861" CreationDate="2015-10-03T21:58:07.017" UserId="8" Text="It doesn't actually make a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;dc&quot;, properly capitalized as &quot;DC&quot;, refers to direct current. So 1.3 V DC simply means that the required RAM runs using 1.3 volts of direct current. (If you don't know about direct vs. alternating current, you can read about the differences [here][1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, if you look at the power cable that's probably attached to your computer, there'll be a brick somewhere in the middle of it. That brick is the AC transadapter, which is a combination of an adapter and a transformer. It performs the function of transforming the incoming power down to a lower voltage that's safe for the computer (usually 12 V, though it can vary), and then adapting the AC current that comes from the socket outlet and through the transformer into DC current, because that's what computers work on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's important because it means that *any* type of RAM runs on DC. Even if something specified AC for some RAM, the RAM wouldn't get AC because the only power coming into the computer and components is DC. Hence, a RAM package that's specified 1.3 V is no different in terms of power requirements from another that's specified 1.3 V DC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/alternating-current-ac-vs-direct-current-dc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="520" RevisionGUID="e1fb1b96-1b3d-40f5-8e40-d63cf05ff712" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:46:21.623" UserId="461" Text="[ Not sure if this is the best place to ask, so feel free to redirect. ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to use an Asus H81T motherboard for my next desktop, and wanted a fanless case for it.  I found the Asaka Euler and Streacom FC8 and the FC8 is the clear winner since it gives me enough room to put 2 disks in the box as well as letting me include an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem is that looking at Streacom's system-build guide about where the CPU should be placed for FC8's heat-pipes to be usable, I get the impression that the Thin-ITX form used by the H81T puts the CPU too far from the backplate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone confirm (or deny) that the FC8's heat pipes can be used with a Thin-ITX motherboard such as the H81T?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1861" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="520" RevisionGUID="e1fb1b96-1b3d-40f5-8e40-d63cf05ff712" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:46:21.623" UserId="461" Text="Can the Streacom FC8's heat pipes accomodate a Thin-ITX motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1862" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="520" RevisionGUID="e1fb1b96-1b3d-40f5-8e40-d63cf05ff712" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:46:21.623" UserId="461" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="520" RevisionGUID="25a8fa59-5235-4b0e-9917-04d87f095f95" CreationDate="2015-10-04T03:01:35.640" UserId="461" Comment="Fixed &quot;Akasa&quot; typo" Text="[ Not sure if this is the best place to ask, so feel free to redirect. ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to use an Asus H81T motherboard for my next desktop, and wanted a fanless case for it.  I found the Akasa Euler and Streacom FC8 and the FC8 is the clear winner since it gives me enough room to put 2 disks in the box as well as letting me include an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem is that looking at Streacom's system-build guide about where the CPU should be placed for FC8's heat-pipes to be usable, I get the impression that the Thin-ITX form used by the H81T puts the CPU too far from the backplate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone confirm (or deny) that the FC8's heat pipes can be used with a Thin-ITX motherboard such as the H81T?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, what other cases would you recommend for a fanless system that can host a Thin-ITX motherboard and with room for an optical drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="520" RevisionGUID="1234ef43-6bb3-4dfc-8383-9249148e2a0a" CreationDate="2015-10-04T03:48:23.053" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant part" Text="I'd like to use an Asus H81T motherboard for my next desktop, and wanted a fanless case for it.  I found the Akasa Euler and Streacom FC8 and the FC8 is the clear winner since it gives me enough room to put 2 disks in the box as well as letting me include an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem is that looking at Streacom's system-build guide about where the CPU should be placed for FC8's heat-pipes to be usable, I get the impression that the Thin-ITX form used by the H81T puts the CPU too far from the backplate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone confirm (or deny) that the FC8's heat pipes can be used with a Thin-ITX motherboard such as the H81T?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, what other cases would you recommend for a fanless system that can host a Thin-ITX motherboard and with room for an optical drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="521" RevisionGUID="d0aee05d-476d-41a0-8b4e-7b9c2643b29c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T05:57:09.477" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for an MP3 player mainly for listening to podcast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MicroUSB cable&#xD;&#xA;- 512 MB internal memory or more&#xD;&#xA;- Buttons for seeking backward/forward 2-5 seconds (in case of missed words)&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to handle in a pocket (without looking at it)&#xD;&#xA;- Delete files from memory function&#xD;&#xA;- Linux support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Standard/replaceable batteries (AA/AAA)&#xD;&#xA;- Can be used during charging&#xD;&#xA;- Bookmarking, advanced bookmarking function (mark files as listened, etc.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1866" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="521" RevisionGUID="d0aee05d-476d-41a0-8b4e-7b9c2643b29c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T05:57:09.477" UserId="199" Text="MP3 player for podcasts" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1867" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="521" RevisionGUID="d0aee05d-476d-41a0-8b4e-7b9c2643b29c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T05:57:09.477" UserId="199" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="522" RevisionGUID="16ebe711-8c02-4050-a12e-1baa5b4b302c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:48:35.777" UserId="462" Text="The [E Ink Carta](http://www.eink.com/display_products_carta.html) is the electronic paper display used in the Amazon Kindle Voyage and latest generation Kindle Paperwhite ebook readers. It has 300ppi resolution, a very good contrast ratio and excellent readability even in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current Kindle lineup includes only readers with 6&quot; displays, which many people find too small for comfortable reading. While larger ebook readers exist on the market (such as Amazon's own Kindle DX), none of them seem to have a display as good as the E Ink Carta in terms of resolution and contrast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interestingly, [the Carta product data sheet](http://www.eink.com/sell_sheets/carta_spec_sheet.pdf) states that sizes up to 13.3&quot; are available from E Ink to manufacturers. Which end-user products contain those larger Carta displays? In particular, are there any ebook readers (current or planned) with a Carta display larger than 6&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1869" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="522" RevisionGUID="16ebe711-8c02-4050-a12e-1baa5b4b302c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:48:35.777" UserId="462" Text="Which products have a large E Ink Carta display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1870" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="522" RevisionGUID="16ebe711-8c02-4050-a12e-1baa5b4b302c" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:48:35.777" UserId="462" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="524" RevisionGUID="026e1447-4873-4199-8c60-9e8a6db57306" CreationDate="2015-10-04T09:22:05.917" UserId="203" Text="Any overclockable Intel CPU, if you're willing, or the [i7 4790K ($317.99@SuperBiiz)][1] if you're not. Don't just look at clock speed. AMD's FX 9590 has a 5 GHz boost speed, but is slower than Intel's offerings because of a low IPC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good budget option for overclockers is the dual core [Pentium G3258 ($64.99@NCIX][2], at a mere U$65. Intel released this **unlocked** CPU for celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Pentium brand. With decent cooling, [it can easily match the frequency][3], and therefore single core performance (approximately), of the i7 that is U$250 more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option, featuring Intel's new Skylake architecture, is the [i5 6600K ($248.95@Amazon)][4], which gives an average overclock of [4.5 GHz on air][5]. Because it uses a newer microarchitecture, it is, clock for clock, about 5% faster than the Haswell CPUs like the 4790K and the G3258.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also allows you to purchase more, faster RAM, as the Skylake platform supports DDR4. Because of the newer, less mature technology, the total price of the system is likely to be around the same as one with the 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=I7-4790KBX&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=97890&amp;promoid=1111&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/pentium_g3258/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8M7TY/?tag=pcpapi-20&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/core_i5_6600k/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="525" RevisionGUID="9ce91c69-7529-444b-ace1-fca53bd0d0c3" CreationDate="2015-10-04T14:51:24.310" UserId="465" Text="“Less than 2 inches” and “ready to use without building a circuit” are difficult requirements to meet, but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Something like the display on the Apple Watch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then why not use it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pick whichever smartwatch platform looks easiest for you to program for, and write an app that'll display your test images. Or maybe find one that already exists that can do the job (like a slide show or impractically-small-remote-desktop app). You don't need to publish the app, just run it in developer mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This doesn't give an external-monitor type connection like you asked for, but hopefully being able to run graphics code on the device does the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can remove the watch band to make it less awkward, and even use the band pins as mounting points to fasten the watch to a test fixture if that's useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will easily fit within your budget unless you decide to use the Apple Watch Edition.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I also thought to mention Siftables/Sifteo as a tiny-screen product, but it looks like they're not commercially available any more.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1884" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="6d1be5b5-a558-4060-926e-4fe17f8c1578" CreationDate="2015-10-04T17:04:23.353" UserId="432" Comment="Add more context to make it clear why I need to control it using an external computer. " Text="I'm a graduate student looking to test an experimental [spectral imager](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectral_imaging). It's basically a camera that can see lots of different colors instead of just red, green, and blue (RGB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a small display that I can easily use to display our test images:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in width&#xD;&#xA;- Less than 2 inches in height&#xD;&#xA;- At least 256x256 resolution &amp;ndash; the higher the pixels per inch the better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 colors, RGB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- Portable (I need to take this across the US multiple times in the next 6 months)&#xD;&#xA;- Less than $2,000 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like the display on the Apple Watch would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the important part: A computer program reads the camera output then determines what to display next and does that repeatedly until the calibration sequence is complete. Using a computer, I need to able to set the individual pixels to either red, green, or blue. I would like to use it as a second monitor for my computer. So an HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort connection would be ideal. I'd also be okay with a USB-controlled display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My technical background: I'm comfortable with MATLAB, Windows 7, OS X. I also have about 6 months of experience with Python and LabView. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a strong electronics background; don't ask me to use something that requires building/soldering a circuit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1891" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="77740de9-3c4f-4dc1-ad7b-fffb073afae6" CreationDate="2015-10-04T22:55:52.990" UserId="155" Comment="edited body" Text="For years now, the only webcam I've (rarely) used is the [Logitech C200](http://support.logitech.com/product/webcam-c200). This is by far outdated now and I'm looking for a high-quality, powerful webcam that would be ideal for streaming. I've looked through the well-known Logitech webcams, and there are some good ones but not quite what I need. These specs are required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;- H.264 video compression&#xD;&#xA;- manual and auto focusing&#xD;&#xA;- \&gt; 30fps&#xD;&#xA;- 5 or more megapixels&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally, an independent stand and built-in stereo mics would come in handy every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1892" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="478c6444-b874-4ec1-b75d-9b0a289ed512" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar" Text="Can you recommend a good monitor with a high quality display which gives me the feeling of a Retina display like the MacBook's one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it with a 2015 13&quot; Retina MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Dell U2515H 25&quot; and is not right for me. Too big, I can not work and especially I do not see as I will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try to max with a 23&quot;, but maybe 21&quot; would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And above all: high DPI rate**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Retina MacBook 13 2015 spread on a 13-inch 2560x1600 resolution: 220 DPI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work as programmer and writer and spend many hours at the computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1893" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="478c6444-b874-4ec1-b75d-9b0a289ed512" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" UserId="1" Comment="improve title; grammar" Text="High DPI 21“ or 23” monitor for 13&quot; MacBook Pro 13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1894" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="478c6444-b874-4ec1-b75d-9b0a289ed512" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by -1 edit id of 144" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1895" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="e2763be4-8e07-4589-8f2d-7c3b59ffa2c5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" UserId="155" Comment="improve title; grammar; removed tag" Text="Can you recommend a good monitor with a high quality display which gives me the feeling of a Retina display like the MacBook's one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it with a 2015 13&quot; MacBook Pro w/ Retina.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Dell U2515H 25&quot; and is not right for me. Too big, I can not work and especially I do not see as I will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try to max with a 23&quot;, but maybe 21&quot; would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And above all: high DPI rate**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Retina MacBook 13 2015 spread on a 13-inch 2560x1600 resolution: 220 DPI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work as programmer and writer and spend many hours at the computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1896" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="e2763be4-8e07-4589-8f2d-7c3b59ffa2c5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" UserId="155" Comment="improve title; grammar; removed tag" Text="High DPI 21“ or 23” monitor for 13&quot; MacBook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1897" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="e2763be4-8e07-4589-8f2d-7c3b59ffa2c5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:58:16.840" UserId="155" Comment="improve title; grammar; removed tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="89f8b37d-0956-49fe-99df-a45d6f821ce3" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:14:29.757" UserId="376" Text="I'm looking for a prosumer [FDM][1] 3D printer.  I have the following requirements, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ printing nozzles&#xD;&#xA; - &lt;= 40 micron layer height.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of printing in all commonly available plastics &amp; support materials, e.g. PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, Laywood, TPU etcetera.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of printing high-temperature materials such as Polycarbonate, PET &amp; Nylon&#xD;&#xA; - Not dependent on proprietary consumables supplies - able to use generic 1.75 or 3mm filament.&#xD;&#xA; - Large print volume - 200mm+ in at least one dimension.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running from an Australian 240V power socket.&#xD;&#xA; - Enclosed cabinet.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of operation with open-source software.&#xD;&#xA; - Low cost:- must be below $10,000 AUD, preferably below $5,000 AUD.&#xD;&#xA; - Australian supplier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that there is probably no machine that meets all these criteria, so preference will be given to recommendations that address the criteria in top-to-bottom order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="89f8b37d-0956-49fe-99df-a45d6f821ce3" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:14:29.757" UserId="376" Text="Recommendation for prosumer 3D Printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="89f8b37d-0956-49fe-99df-a45d6f821ce3" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:14:29.757" UserId="376" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1902" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="b7f13ee2-5700-4011-a90d-fbf18c416238" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:31:44.847" UserId="57" Comment="adds 3d-printer tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;3d-printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1903" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="b7f13ee2-5700-4011-a90d-fbf18c416238" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:31:44.847" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 376 edit id of 145" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1904" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="393a6fb0-e0a7-4b71-bad5-7ed9cd9e1f45" CreationDate="2015-10-05T04:32:14.500" UserId="376" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;3d-printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1905" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="0404fe65-1194-4724-928f-e95366ed5af5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:08:42.290" UserId="54" Comment="voltage tag added" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;voltage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1906" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="0404fe65-1194-4724-928f-e95366ed5af5" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:08:42.290" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 155, 214 edit id of 143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1907" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="1ec5e7dd-1575-42c2-8f1a-adc0b05ce79b" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:39:04.640" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="529" RevisionGUID="a579cb6d-cb87-4dd9-b1b8-5de77c3bf307" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:01:54.357" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="534" RevisionGUID="561f2d67-0f59-4ade-9e7c-4f5fe4ceed2c" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:07:08.110" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1916" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="536" RevisionGUID="96c9a3cb-7e56-4c4e-8353-0199ec79eab0" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:09:37.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="537" RevisionGUID="421f163d-222e-4407-8506-64f6dc6d8259" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:11:37.813" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="1919" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="539" RevisionGUID="351ae1b9-e648-462a-b453-b413587745f0" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:13:09.227" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="540" RevisionGUID="741e3b2e-323b-4f10-a6fb-b386cf18e020" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:13:09.227" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="541" RevisionGUID="f1b7c88c-0409-4d5e-bd63-3d2fd318c7ec" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:52:36.527" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="542" RevisionGUID="4f31db57-642b-4b26-9cc5-d55f19c7ad04" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:52:36.527" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="538" RevisionGUID="93720689-4822-49f6-af2c-35b7b0033c85" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:24.867" UserId="57" Comment="added 199 characters in body" Text="Light Emitting Diode. These lights are more energy efficient than incandescent and compact florescent lights. These types of lights can be attached to programmable circuits and use very little power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1924" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="538" RevisionGUID="93720689-4822-49f6-af2c-35b7b0033c85" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:24.867" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1925" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="542" RevisionGUID="ad354b12-da1e-4a3c-848f-aa8a460950ed" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:35.513" UserId="57" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="A headset requires some a microphone input. It's intended to allow communication into another system. Often these are combined with [headphones] to create a combination device. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1926" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="542" RevisionGUID="ad354b12-da1e-4a3c-848f-aa8a460950ed" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:35.513" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 152" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1927" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="530" RevisionGUID="87bc149c-44f0-4815-b453-85b4961f0f24" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:43.423" UserId="57" Comment="added 169 characters in body" Text="A manufacturing process that adds layers of material until the entire object is created. Utilize this tag for products that use additive manufacturing to create objects." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1928" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="530" RevisionGUID="87bc149c-44f0-4815-b453-85b4961f0f24" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:43.423" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 146" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1929" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="540" RevisionGUID="0cc4bb06-c4f7-4639-92f4-2ee2b7e2e815" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:52.143" UserId="57" Comment="added 250 characters in body" Text="An operating system developed by Microsoft. Use this tag if you are requesting hardware that operates in the Microsoft Windows environment. You should also include minimum version of Windows that the hardware should support (XP, Vista, 7, 8, 10, etc)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1930" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="540" RevisionGUID="0cc4bb06-c4f7-4639-92f4-2ee2b7e2e815" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:41:52.143" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 151" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1931" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="532" RevisionGUID="1517e13c-13be-4c74-b981-3711f45a5e64" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:00.260" UserId="57" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="A mobile computer that is larger than a tablet. These devices have an integrated hardware keyboard and screen. Use this tag when requesting information about laptops or notebook computers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1932" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="532" RevisionGUID="1517e13c-13be-4c74-b981-3711f45a5e64" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:00.260" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="534" RevisionGUID="857c163e-e92d-4139-9056-a4b1d36be0b7" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:11.360" UserId="57" Comment="added 302 characters in body" Text="A device that allows character input into a computer. These come in various key layout styles including,but not limited to, QWERTY, QWERTZ, AZERTY and Dvorak (for Latin based languages). Keyboards can be hardware or software based. Use this tag when dealing with character input based recommendations. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1934" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="534" RevisionGUID="857c163e-e92d-4139-9056-a4b1d36be0b7" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:11.360" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 148" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1935" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="536" RevisionGUID="24bd9bfb-622c-4562-8af4-a018b916a27f" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:21.580" UserId="57" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="A device that handles the connection between two networks and forwards packets between the two networks. In a home environment, these would be the Internet and the local home network. This tag is for use when bridging two networks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1936" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="536" RevisionGUID="24bd9bfb-622c-4562-8af4-a018b916a27f" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:42:21.580" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 149" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="47899d67-0ba1-4d13-83ce-bd979db4d2c9" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:59:12.060" UserId="155" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="For years now, the only webcam I've (rarely) used is the [Logitech C200](http://support.logitech.com/product/webcam-c200). This is by far outdated now and I'm looking for a high-quality, powerful webcam that would be ideal for streaming. I've looked through the well-known Logitech webcams, and there are some good ones but not quite what I need. These specs are required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;- H.264 video compression&#xD;&#xA;- manual and auto focusing&#xD;&#xA;- \&gt; 30fps (something around 45 or 60 fps is ideal)&#xD;&#xA;- 5 or more megapixels&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally, an independent stand and built-in stereo mics would come in handy every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="27c4b2fc-345f-4fcc-8f32-8f3111631af7" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:24:02.910" UserId="473" Text="not sure if this is the right place to ask but here we go anyway...&#xD;&#xA;Thinking about upgrading my laptop and I can't decide between two lenovo laptops (links below). Both are the same price. One contains amd fx 7500 apu + r7 dedicated graphics card and sshd with 1080p screen whilst other contains i7 5500u without sshd or full HD screen. Both come with 8gb of ram. The laptop will be used for video editing, work (word,ppt etc) and some occasional casual gaming (not as important). Both are priced at £499.&#xD;&#xA;Any advice or help would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Links:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-g50-laptop-intel-core-i7-8gb-ram-1tb-15-6-/p1947933?navAction=jump&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-z50-laptop-amd-fx-8gb-ram-1tb-8gb-sshd-15-6-/p1756529?navAction=jump" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1939" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="27c4b2fc-345f-4fcc-8f32-8f3111631af7" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:24:02.910" UserId="473" Text="Need help with choosing between two laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1940" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="27c4b2fc-345f-4fcc-8f32-8f3111631af7" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:24:02.910" UserId="473" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="958738af-1fd7-4a63-9111-7c6aa220132d" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:07:38.973" UserId="164" Text="I am looking for a very large power bank, as I am very bad about charging my devices. Ideally the power bank I am looking for is as follows-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under $200&#xD;&#xA; - Over 30,000 Mah&#xD;&#xA; - Flat- smallish so that it can be mounted in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 10 lbs (or 4.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - Not Jagged- this has to be carried around, so I need it to not hurt me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a hard time finding reliable sellers for such a thing, so make sure the battery you are looking at hasn't isn't a scam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to give up on the weight if that makes this impossible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems strange that I essentially want a car battery for my laptop, but I would find a thing to be very useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1942" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="958738af-1fd7-4a63-9111-7c6aa220132d" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:07:38.973" UserId="164" Text="What is the largest capacity power bank on the market" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1943" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="958738af-1fd7-4a63-9111-7c6aa220132d" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:07:38.973" UserId="164" Text="&lt;external-battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1944" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="8deb19b5-fc90-438a-80be-3c4e114d2a7b" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:10:20.940" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting, capitalization, links, title" Text="Not sure if this is the right place to ask but here we go anyway...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinking about upgrading my laptop and I can't decide between two Lenovo laptops (links below). Both are the same price. One contains an AMD FX-7500 APU, an R7 dedicated graphics card, an SSHD and a 1080p screen. The other contains an i7-5500U without an SSHD or a full-HD screen. Both come with 8GB of RAM. The laptop will be used for video editing, work (Word, ppt, etc.) and some occasional casual gaming (not as important). Both are priced at £499.  &#xD;&#xA;Any advice or help would be appreciated.  &#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Links:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo G50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-g50-laptop-intel-core-i7-8gb-ram-1tb-15-6-/p1947933)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo Z50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-z50-laptop-amd-fx-8gb-ram-1tb-8gb-sshd-15-6-/p1756529)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1945" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="8deb19b5-fc90-438a-80be-3c4e114d2a7b" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:10:20.940" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting, capitalization, links, title" Text="Need help choosing between Lenovo G50 and Z50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="546" RevisionGUID="0e671be0-bc91-4c12-acee-9f4f494a7290" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:14:55.017" UserId="1" Text="Note that I don't have personal experience with either laptop, but I do have experience with the kinds of information you're using to make your decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely go with the [Z50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-z50-laptop-amd-fx-8gb-ram-1tb-8gb-sshd-15-6-/p1756529?navAction=jump) here. To enumerate the pertinent specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 has a better display than the G50 (1920 x 1080 vs. 1366 x 768). To put that in perspective, my (non-Retina) 13&quot; MacBook Pro has a 1280x800 display, and it's 13&quot;. You're looking at 15&quot; laptops. &#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 can actually be *cheaper* than the G50, from a cursory glance at the prices (£449.95 - £499.95 vs. £499.95)&#xD;&#xA; - Both have 8GB RAM, which is decent. &#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 has an &quot;SSHD&quot;, basically a 1TB HDD with an 8GB SSD on top of it. That 8GB SSD, if the software running it is built correctly (it probably is) will store your OS and most frequently used documents, improving performance *drastically*. The G50 doesn't have this, &#xD;&#xA; - See a [comparison of the processors](http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-5500U-vs-AMD-FX-7500) - the G50's i7 5500U vs. the Z50's AMD FX-7500. In my opinion, the G50 actually wins out here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  However, computers, especially laptops, are almost never limited by their CPU in real-life tasks. You'll see much more benefit from that SSHD than you will from a marginally better CPU. Even as a developer, the only time I max out my processor (2.5 GHz i5) is when I'm transcoding audio with ffmpeg, or, rarely, when compiling code. In other cases, my mechanical hard drive just can't keep up, and the processor has to wait to get data from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Also, you mention video editing. The graphics card (AMD Radeon R7 M260DX) in the Z50 will likely win out over the G50's Intel HD 5500. I'm not an expert on graphics cards, though - [see this comparison](http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=2599&amp;gid2=2575&amp;compare=radeon-r7-m260-v2-vs-intel-hd-graphics-5500-mobile) for more information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either of these machines would be absolute overkill for Word / Excel / PowerPoint. For video editing, I would expect the Z50 to beat out the G50. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1950" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="546" RevisionGUID="a5ab70cc-803a-49c0-9775-56d46f519c2d" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:22:08.520" UserId="1" Comment="added 76 characters in body" Text="Note that I don't have personal experience with either laptop, but I do have experience with the kinds of information you're using to make your decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely go with the [Z50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-z50-laptop-amd-fx-8gb-ram-1tb-8gb-sshd-15-6-/p1756529?navAction=jump) here. To enumerate the pertinent specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 has a better display than the G50 (1920 x 1080 vs. 1366 x 768). To put that in perspective, my (non-Retina) 13&quot; MacBook Pro has a 1280x800 display, and it's 13&quot;. The 15&quot; G50 has a lower vertical resolution than my 13&quot; laptop, and barely beats it horizontally. Not good.&#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 can actually be *cheaper* than the G50, from a cursory glance at the prices (£449.95 - £499.95 vs. £499.95)&#xD;&#xA; - Both have 8GB RAM, which is decent. &#xD;&#xA; - The Z50 has an &quot;SSHD&quot;, basically a 1TB HDD with an 8GB SSD on top of it. That 8GB SSD, if the software running it is built correctly (it probably is) will store your OS and most frequently used documents, improving performance *drastically*. The G50 doesn't have this.&#xD;&#xA; - See a [comparison of the processors](http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-5500U-vs-AMD-FX-7500) - the G50's i7 5500U vs. the Z50's AMD FX-7500. In my opinion, the G50 actually wins out here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  However, computers, especially laptops, are almost never limited by their CPU in real-life tasks. You'll see much more benefit from that SSHD than you will from a marginally better CPU. Even as a developer, the only time I max out my processor (2.5 GHz i5) is when I'm transcoding audio with ffmpeg, or, rarely, when compiling code. In other cases, my mechanical hard drive just can't keep up, and the processor has to wait to get data from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Also, you mention video editing. The graphics card (AMD Radeon R7 M260DX) in the Z50 will likely win out over the G50's Intel HD 5500. I'm not an expert on graphics cards, though - [see this comparison](http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=2599&amp;gid2=2575&amp;compare=radeon-r7-m260-v2-vs-intel-hd-graphics-5500-mobile) for more information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either of these machines would be absolute overkill for Word / Excel / PowerPoint. For video editing, I would expect the Z50 to beat out the G50. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1951" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="1198e7af-cba8-49d0-81c4-d5a607962b3c" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:35:56.000" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="I am looking for a very large power bank, as I am very bad about charging my devices. Ideally the power bank I am looking for is as follows-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under $200&#xD;&#xA; - Over 30,000 mAh&#xD;&#xA; - Flat and small so that it can be mounted in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 10 lbs (or 4.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - Not Jagged: this has to be carried around, so I need it to not hurt me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a hard time finding reliable sellers for such a thing, so make sure the battery you are looking at isn't a scam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to give up on the weight if that makes this impossible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems strange that I essentially want a car battery for my laptop, but I would find a thing to be very useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1952" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="1198e7af-cba8-49d0-81c4-d5a607962b3c" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:35:56.000" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 164 edit id of 153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="70434212-19f0-4abf-9206-d1675a591f3c" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:38:01.570" UserId="164" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a very large power bank, as I am very bad about charging my devices. Ideally the power bank I am looking for is as follows-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under $200&#xD;&#xA; - Over 30,000 mAh&#xD;&#xA; - Flat and small so that it can be mounted in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 10 lbs (or 4.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - Not Jagged: this has to be carried around, so I need it to not hurt me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a hard time finding reliable sellers for such a thing, so make sure the battery you are looking at isn't a scam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to give up on the weight if that makes this impossible.&#xD;&#xA; - I am also willing to go over budget but not to a massive degree. ~$50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems strange that I essentially want a car battery for my laptop, but I would find a thing to be very useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="1fc0f034-f2d6-423b-9f08-724f37c73e27" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:42:40.587" UserId="477" Text="For Video editing they both aren't that good, an APU graphics card? Forget it. I would totally recommend you this model http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00Q2R29J0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1444088172&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=lenovo+nvidia+z50&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41FkgM7WrAL&amp;ref=plSrch (sorry for the long link) it has a decent processor and seriously a BEASTLY graphics card, I have a laptop with the same graphics card. With that graphics card in my 380€ laptop I can almost play games as good as on my 1000€ PC Vetter spend a bit more but make a great investement. Sorry for all mistakes I made, I'm on my phone and have crappy german autocorrection.&#xA;&#xA;Sincerely, Tanonic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="be86c7c9-dde0-4154-ad07-f175dfe4ddb9" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:38:52.557" UserId="57" Comment="Small amount of clean up" Text="For Video editing they both aren't that good, an APU graphics card? Forget it. I would totally recommend you this [model][1]. It has a decent processor and seriously a BEASTLY graphics card, I have a laptop with the same graphics card. With that graphics card in my 380€ laptop I can almost play games as good as on my 1000€ PC Vetter spend a bit more but make a great investment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00Q2R29J0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1444088172&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=lenovo%20nvidia%20z50&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41FkgM7WrAL&amp;ref=plSrch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1959" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="4b66bd98-3685-4ee2-be0e-722c086dd370" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:54:25.710" UserId="155" Comment="changed out relevant tag" Text="&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="550" RevisionGUID="f897aa6c-8410-4e58-a268-d57fa664cb1b" CreationDate="2015-10-06T01:14:17.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="551" RevisionGUID="288a1526-7b4e-40f2-ae4c-ad91a92199b0" CreationDate="2015-10-06T01:14:17.643" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1962" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="c2121a86-03da-4f1f-b618-19e96829079c" CreationDate="2015-10-06T01:28:06.627" UserId="477" Comment="added 1900 characters in body" Text="Edit: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@Adam I'm sorry for that, I should go into more detail. A lot of points listed below are coming from personal experience due to me having a very similar laptop to the one I recommmended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- First of all I think it is very important to have dedicated graphics card for heavy graphics load like video editing and gaming. In this use case the graphics card is the most important part of the laptop. Also Nvidia has very good technology called prime. The model I recommended has this technology, it uses your integrated intel graphics when not needing graphics performance like when browsing the web. If you need your graphics power like when editing video, the nvidia driver automatically kicks in with your powerfull nVidia card to get the performance needed. With this it is possible to save a lot of power (battery life). I personally love this feature and it works without problems on my lenovo with windows 8.1 and various Linux distros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- next up the display is better than on the i7 model but has the same resolution than the g50. Personally I like the full HD screen, it is very sharp and colors are good as well. A good display is also extremely important in this use case especially video editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The 256GB SSD makes your whole OS faster and is these days a must. It makes your programs faster and also your editing workflow more fluent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The processor is very decent and good enough for this use case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the nVidia GPU is slightly better than the amd one (http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-M260DX-vs-GeForce-840M) and I think prime technology just ist a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Depending on which OS you want to install nVidia and Intel is the way to go. I personally am not a fan of AMD Hardware because I'm a Linux user, I won't go into detail with this just know AMD can be a giant pain when using Linux. If using Linux, the nVidia drivers work perfectly with ubuntu/debian based distros and are very easy to install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only minus is the 4 GB of ram that normally should be enough, if not you can easily upgrade to 8GB for about 30€ (http://www.amazon.de/DDR3L-1600-SO-DIMM-1600Mhz-PC3L-12800S-Voltage/dp/B00IIRSIK6/ref=pd_sim_147_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1E7S7EWFK87F1EMHJJ1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can spend a bit more go with the z50-70 I linked above to get better performance, if not your next best call propably is the AMD model z50. I would not recommend the i7 model g50 because it does not suit your needs at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I could help,  Tanonic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="552" RevisionGUID="cd643828-c0a2-4b4b-97dc-7d9866f0522a" CreationDate="2015-10-06T03:20:43.373" UserId="241" Text="I use an EasyAcc PB12000 (12,000 mAh) to power my Raspberry Pi.  Given how long the Pi will run on a single charge, it does appear to reach its claimed capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EasyAcc doesn't appear to sell that model any longer, but a pair of [these 15000 mAh batteries][1] should meet your criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Total capacity 30,000 mAh&#xD;&#xA;* Total cost $54&#xD;&#xA;* Total weight 1.25 pounds&#xD;&#xA;* Strap a pair of them to some sort of stiff backing, and you've got your flat form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8UFTQA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="b91dea79-086f-4924-810b-5cc55c92cb0c" CreationDate="2015-10-06T03:59:11.570" UserId="478" Text="It seems these days people (and thus laptop manufacturers) don't care about how long a laptop lasts for, since I guess they don't care how wasteful it is to buy a new one every year or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An honest person will admit that high-powered games notwithstanding, laptops have been doing largely the same thing for about ten years and there actually hasn't been a real need to increase performance for a long while, in spite of what the laptop manufacturers and microsoft may say. That's why I think ten years is a fair target to set for my next laptop's lifetime. Is there any laptop with a warranty that comes close to that? What's the best there is right now? Are there some older (2 years maybe) laptops that, though their warranty may not cover continued use, have withstood the test of time and are known for their durability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current one—an IBM Thinkpad X40—is actually about that old now. Though it still works *amazingly* well, due to the general sloppiness of the people writing the more mainstream software I have to run a lightweight Linux distribution (archlinux) on it to get reasonably good performance. This is becoming increasingly annoying. Hence this search for a replacement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="b91dea79-086f-4924-810b-5cc55c92cb0c" CreationDate="2015-10-06T03:59:11.570" UserId="478" Text="A durable laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="b91dea79-086f-4924-810b-5cc55c92cb0c" CreationDate="2015-10-06T03:59:11.570" UserId="478" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1968" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="554" RevisionGUID="3c679a49-7e87-4a31-aa9a-b0a4006c8f01" CreationDate="2015-10-06T10:01:58.777" UserId="54" Text="I would recommend Lenovo Thinkpad W520. As you probably know, Lenovo purchased the IBM personal computer business and the ThinkPad brand in 2005. T43/p &amp; T60 were one of the last IBM-designed units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I own this laptop and it is just my personal view. I faced with a similar choice - solid workstation that will last for years. I bought it as an off-lease laptop for $400. In my humble opinion, it would be very difficult to get something better for this money. Answer is based on a 4284XXX model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Specification (for versions: 4284W85, 4284E57, 4284B26, 4284A35)][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel 7-2820QM with quad-core&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia Quadro 2000M, HD 3000&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: 8 GB DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 (maximum memory: 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum Battery Run Time: up to 10.80 hour (9-cell) or up to 21.6 hours (9-cell plus Slice battery)&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 320 GB (Serial ATA/300, 7200 RPM)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: 15.6&quot; (Active Matrix TFT Color LCD, 1920x1080, anti-glare display)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What distinguishes this model from the typical consumer laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - palm rest does not bend in too easily under pressure &#xD;&#xA; - solid hinges &#xD;&#xA; - you can open the display up 180 degrees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Classical Thinkpad keyboard may be a plus for you. Check the difference [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check unboxing video [here][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check product gallery [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/compare/1298934/lenovo-thinkpad-w520-4284w85-notebook.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?p=680454#p680454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ythPaRrzRsA&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://picasaweb.google.com/lenovocomms/ThinkPadW520&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CisvT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1969" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="554" RevisionGUID="4a31728c-328d-41b3-ae35-844fec0df1df" CreationDate="2015-10-06T10:26:15.693" UserId="54" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I would recommend Lenovo Thinkpad W520. As you probably know, Lenovo purchased the IBM personal computer business and the ThinkPad brand in 2005. T43/p &amp; T60 were one of the last IBM-designed units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I own this laptop and it is just my personal view. I faced with a similar choice - solid workstation that will last for years. I bought it as an off-lease laptop for $400. In my humble opinion, it would be very difficult to get something better for this money. This laptop is 4 years old now. Answer is based on a 4284XXX model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Specification (for versions: 4284W85, 4284E57, 4284B26, 4284A35)][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel 7-2820QM with quad-core&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia Quadro 2000M, HD 3000&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: 8 GB DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 (maximum memory: 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum Battery Run Time: up to 10.80 hour (9-cell) or up to 21.6 hours (9-cell plus Slice battery)&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 320 GB (Serial ATA/300, 7200 RPM)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: 15.6&quot; (Active Matrix TFT Color LCD, 1920x1080, anti-glare display)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What distinguishes this model from the typical consumer laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - palm rest does not bend in too easily under pressure &#xD;&#xA; - solid hinges &#xD;&#xA; - you can open the display up 180 degrees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Classical Thinkpad keyboard may be a plus for you. Check the difference [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Unboxing video][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Product gallery][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/compare/1298934/lenovo-thinkpad-w520-4284w85-notebook.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?p=680454#p680454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ythPaRrzRsA&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://picasaweb.google.com/lenovocomms/ThinkPadW520&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CisvT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="554" RevisionGUID="a247e115-43b5-4b58-9ead-623fb3706175" CreationDate="2015-10-06T10:43:49.017" UserId="54" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would recommend Lenovo Thinkpad W520. As you probably know, Lenovo purchased the IBM personal computer business and the ThinkPad brand in 2005. T43/p &amp; T60 were one of the last IBM-designed units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I own this laptop and it is just my personal view. I faced with a similar choice - solid workstation that will last for years. I bought it as an off-lease laptop for $400. In my humble opinion, it would be very difficult to get something better for this money. This laptop is 4 years old now. Answer is based on a 4284XXX model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Specification (for versions: 4284W85, 4284E57, 4284B26, 4284A35)][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel i7-2820QM with quad-core&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia Quadro 2000M, HD 3000&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: 8 GB DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 (maximum memory: 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum Battery Run Time: up to 10.80 hour (9-cell) or up to 21.6 hours (9-cell plus Slice battery)&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 320 GB (Serial ATA/300, 7200 RPM)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: 15.6&quot; (Active Matrix TFT Color LCD, 1920x1080, anti-glare display)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What distinguishes this model from the typical consumer laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - palm rest does not bend in too easily under pressure &#xD;&#xA; - solid hinges &#xD;&#xA; - you can open the display up 180 degrees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Classical Thinkpad keyboard may be a plus for you. Check the difference [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Unboxing video][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Product gallery][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/compare/1298934/lenovo-thinkpad-w520-4284w85-notebook.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?p=680454#p680454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ythPaRrzRsA&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://picasaweb.google.com/lenovocomms/ThinkPadW520&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CisvT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="554" RevisionGUID="38eca570-be43-4148-84aa-bce9a6b84d2c" CreationDate="2015-10-06T11:06:21.997" UserId="54" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would recommend Lenovo Thinkpad W520. As you probably know, Lenovo purchased the IBM personal computer business and the ThinkPad brand in 2005. T43/p &amp; T60 were one of the last IBM-designed units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I own this laptop and it is just my personal view. I faced with a similar choice - solid workstation that will last for years. I bought it as an off-lease laptop for $400. In my humble opinion, it would be very difficult to get something better for this money. This laptop is 4 years old now. Answer is based on a 4284XXX model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Specification (for versions: 4284W85, 4284E57, 4284B26, 4284A35)][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel i7-2820QM with quad-core&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia Quadro 2000M, HD 3000&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: 8 GB DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 (maximum memory: 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum Battery Run Time: up to 10.80 hours (9-cell) or up to 21.6 hours (9-cell plus Slice battery)&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 320 GB (Serial ATA/300, 7200 RPM)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: 15.6&quot; (Active Matrix TFT Color LCD, 1920x1080, anti-glare display)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What distinguishes this model from the typical consumer laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - palm rest does not bend in too easily under pressure &#xD;&#xA; - solid hinges &#xD;&#xA; - you can open the display up 180 degrees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Classical Thinkpad keyboard may be a plus for you. Check the difference [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Unboxing video][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Product gallery][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/compare/1298934/lenovo-thinkpad-w520-4284w85-notebook.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?p=680454#p680454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ythPaRrzRsA&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://picasaweb.google.com/lenovocomms/ThinkPadW520&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CisvT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="92f3a786-bd57-4822-9e98-b838a98d6ac5" CreationDate="2015-10-06T11:21:39.917" UserId="477" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="Edit: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@Adam I'm sorry for that, I should go into more detail. A lot of points listed below are coming from personal experience due to me having a very similar laptop to the one I recommmended. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Lenovo-Notebook-i5-4210U-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B00Q2R29J0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1444129975&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lenovo+z50+nvidia&quot;&gt;Lenvo z50-70&lt;/a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- First of all I think it is very important to have dedicated graphics card for heavy graphics load like video editing and gaming. In this use case the graphics card is the most important part of the laptop. Also Nvidia has very good technology called prime. The model I recommended has this technology, it uses your integrated intel graphics when not needing graphics performance like when browsing the web. If you need your graphics power like when editing video, the nvidia driver automatically kicks in with your powerfull nVidia card to get the performance needed. With this it is possible to save a lot of power (battery life). I personally love this feature and it works without problems on my lenovo with windows 8.1 and various Linux distros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- next up the display is better than on the i7 model but has the same resolution than the g50. Personally I like the full HD screen, it is very sharp and colors are good as well. A good display is also extremely important in this use case especially video editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The 256GB SSD makes your whole OS faster and is these days a must. It makes your programs faster and also your editing workflow more fluent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The processor is very decent and good enough for this use case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the nVidia GPU is slightly better than the amd one (http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-M260DX-vs-GeForce-840M) and I think prime technology just ist a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Depending on which OS you want to install nVidia and Intel is the way to go. I personally am not a fan of AMD Hardware because I'm a Linux user, I won't go into detail with this just know AMD can be a giant pain when using Linux. If using Linux, the nVidia drivers work perfectly with ubuntu/debian based distros and are very easy to install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only minus is the 4 GB of ram that normally should be enough, if not you can easily upgrade to 8GB for about 30€ (http://www.amazon.de/DDR3L-1600-SO-DIMM-1600Mhz-PC3L-12800S-Voltage/dp/B00IIRSIK6/ref=pd_sim_147_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1E7S7EWFK87F1EMHJJ1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can spend a bit more go with the z50-70 I linked above to get better performance, if not your next best call propably is the AMD model z50. I would not recommend the i7 model g50 because it does not suit your needs at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I could help,  Tanonic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1973" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="9fac3973-e90b-4b6a-89c3-f008055f1571" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:23:04.470" UserId="199" Comment="typo fix, improves formatting" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32GB of flash storage and though it costs $150, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1GB of ram, and 8GB of on board storage. The other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2GB of ram, and 32GB of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1974" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="9fac3973-e90b-4b6a-89c3-f008055f1571" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:23:04.470" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 8, 57 edit id of 157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1975" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="8a032413-bf5c-4f5f-8ab1-5ae7003b885a" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:23:08.947" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="I have a Galaxy Note 4, and sometimes it's nice to be able to do proper typing on it, and saving having to carry a laptop around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a Bluetooth keyboard I can carry with me (doesn't have to fit in my pocket, it can stay in my bag). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Responsive keyboard. I.e. soft keys aren't going to suit. &#xD;&#xA;- Full/large sized. I have large hands, and I need to be able to touch type. &#xD;&#xA;- That said, as small as possible. A standard desktop keyboard sized keyboard isn't going to suit. &#xD;&#xA;- Numpad, F-keys etc, aren't needed. Just letters, number row, shift, space and enter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1976" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="8a032413-bf5c-4f5f-8ab1-5ae7003b885a" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:23:08.947" UserId="199" Comment="improves formatting" Text="Bluetooth keyboard for smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1977" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="8a032413-bf5c-4f5f-8ab1-5ae7003b885a" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:23:08.947" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 8, 57 edit id of 158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1978" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="237" RevisionGUID="86d1d01f-f03e-406a-88a8-19b9243858a8" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:02:02.880" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="What is a good Android-compatible Bluetooth keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="174e9541-aaa9-4d6d-9b15-16ab4538380d" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:02:53.010" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="What is a good laptop targeting 10 years' reliability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1980" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="7e4047e3-19d8-42f3-a30a-69e2e493469d" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:05:30.827" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="What advantages do either of the G50 and Z50 have over one another?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1982" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="fc495d12-6ae7-4cc9-a8cc-f454f8742a00" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:14:51.780" UserId="8" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I am looking for a very large power bank, as I am very bad about charging my devices. Ideally the power bank I am looking for is as follows-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under $200&#xD;&#xA; - Over 30,000 mAh&#xD;&#xA; - Flat and small so that it can be mounted in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 10 lbs (or 4.5 kg)&#xD;&#xA; - Not jagged: this has to be carried around, so I need it to not hurt me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a hard time finding reliable sellers for such a thing, so make sure the battery you are looking at isn't a scam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to give up on the weight if that makes this impossible.&#xD;&#xA; - I am also willing to go over budget but not to a massive degree. ~$50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems strange that I essentially want a car battery for my laptop, but I would find a thing to be very useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1983" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="544" RevisionGUID="fc495d12-6ae7-4cc9-a8cc-f454f8742a00" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:14:51.780" UserId="8" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="What is the largest capacity power bank on the market?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="551" RevisionGUID="1d7828d0-4b7a-4517-8d7f-94fd61bc1b7d" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:47:57.947" UserId="155" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="A device equipped with an electrophoretic display that mimics the readability of text on paper (e.g., Amazon Kindle and B&amp;N Nook)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1985" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="551" RevisionGUID="1d7828d0-4b7a-4517-8d7f-94fd61bc1b7d" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:47:57.947" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 154" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1986" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="bce67472-be5f-4514-84f9-2647c05d18fb" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:48:00.437" UserId="155" Comment="removed unnecessary info; clarification" Text="For questions about selecting KVM switches (Keyboard, Video and Mouse) used to share a single set of inputs and display devices between multiple outputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1987" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="439" RevisionGUID="bce67472-be5f-4514-84f9-2647c05d18fb" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:48:00.437" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 156" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="438" RevisionGUID="a3bd21a8-bc2b-42d1-bfe4-32b5d13115f4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:48:03.147" UserId="155" Comment="removed unnecessary info; clarification" Text="Keyboard, Video and Mouse (KVM) switches allow a single set of peripherals (now usually including other devices via shared USB hubs) to be shared by multiple machines.  They have existed for quite some time and have supported many different keyboard, mouse and video standards.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some KVM implementations are based on simple electronic switches. Others abstract the switching to the network and can be managed remotely.  Most will provide the option to switch inputs based on keyboard strokes as well as physical knobs and switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key things which differentiate KVM switches are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number of ports&#xD;&#xA;* Maximum video resolution supported&#xD;&#xA;* Manageability (remote or local only)&#xD;&#xA;* Input technology &amp;ndash; for example:&#xD;&#xA; * VGA/DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort for video&#xD;&#xA; * Serial/PS2/USB for keyboard and mouse&#xD;&#xA; * Stereo 3.5mm/HDMI for audio&#xD;&#xA; * Shared USB hub for other devices&#xD;&#xA;* Cabling (captive or modular)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1989" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="438" RevisionGUID="a3bd21a8-bc2b-42d1-bfe4-32b5d13115f4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:48:03.147" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 155" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="ca72f623-4b84-4b0a-931b-efa3040badf4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:50:38.677" UserId="342" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise , and that can be used for rendering and 3d Modelling .\&#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high end laptop reviews out there - but most are gaming - oriented, and although there is a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling / rendering  - it is not exactly the same .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3dSmax ( Vray + real time )&#xD;&#xA; - mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit ( mainly photoshop, Illustrator , After effect )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy duty built ( especially hinges )- No plastics ( I travel a lot )&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay ( not really a must but a huge plus )&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays ( see cd bay above )&#xD;&#xA; - not bigger than 15&quot; - ( actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad ..)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16pin RGB outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi custom made HP 8530P ( 11,500 euros ! ), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software ( and it is 7 years old ... ), I had upgraded it a lot over the years ( 2 SSD, Ram )  but still - it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] ( a bit bulky ) , [Origin 15sPro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook - all of them without CD bay = But I am really open to suggestions .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact - since it is for professional work - budget is not an issue, my last laptop mentioned above payed for itself in 3 weeks ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="ca72f623-4b84-4b0a-931b-efa3040badf4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:50:38.677" UserId="342" Text="A portable workstation for 3D rendering" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="ca72f623-4b84-4b0a-931b-efa3040badf4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:50:38.677" UserId="342" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1993" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="59f84a30-06a1-42ab-8fe7-ef81eabece67" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:29:24.970" UserId="478" Comment="Added a summary, explained my rationale further." Text="It seems these days people (and thus laptop manufacturers) don't care about how long a laptop lasts for, since I guess they don't care how wasteful it is to buy a new one every year or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I do. I realise that depending on my buying choices, I could spend about the same amount of money getting cheap laptops every three years rather than a durable laptop every ten years. This isn't about money. This is about reducing my ecological footprint and my electronic waste. (Actually, it *would* be about money if the [hidden environmental costs][1] of manufacturing an extra two laptops per person every ten years were properly accounted for by our governments through regulation. But they aren't. So, I'll have to do the accounting myself.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An honest person will admit that high-powered games notwithstanding, laptops have been doing largely the same thing for about ten years and there actually hasn't been a real need to increase performance for a long while, in spite of what the laptop manufacturers and microsoft may say. That's why I think ten years is a fair target to set for my next laptop's lifetime. Is there any laptop with a warranty that comes close to that? What's the best there is right now? Are there some older (2 years maybe) laptops that, though their warranty may not cover continued use, have withstood the test of time and are known for their durability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current one—an IBM Thinkpad X40—is actually about that old now. Though it still works *amazingly* well, due to the general sloppiness of the people writing the more mainstream software I have to run a lightweight Linux distribution (archlinux) on it to get reasonably good performance. This is becoming increasingly annoying. Hence this search for a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in summary,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. ~10 year lifetime. With warranty would be preferred, but I realise that is just about impossible in this industry at the moment.&#xD;&#xA; - Suitable for general use, i.e. WWW with javascript, HTML5 and video, which is about the hardest thing this laptop would ever have to do. Any new high-powered games are completely unnecessary, and probably impossible in any case, since I'd be running Linux.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running Linux. This one is virtually guaranteed, though, so don't discount a certain machine you have in mind because you're not sure about this.&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life. Would be nice, but strictly optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_full-cost_accounting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1994" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="59f84a30-06a1-42ab-8fe7-ef81eabece67" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:29:24.970" UserId="478" Comment="Added a summary, explained my rationale further." Text="What is a durable laptop targeting a 10 year lifetime?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="556" RevisionGUID="f2565800-e35f-44bd-baea-6e094c0eef7f" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:30:47.823" UserId="54" Text="[iClever][1] keyboard seems to fit your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number row is included. To use with Android you just have to choose &lt;kbd&gt;Fn&lt;/kbd&gt; + &lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is lightweight (0.39lbs =~ 176.9 grams) and tri-folding which makes it perfect for travel (size: 145mm x 95mm x 15mm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the review [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWLJNPQ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS37D4YR4JY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1996" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="fd9ef2ed-6c73-460d-914d-b4c51890d5dc" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:34:50.770" UserId="478" Comment="Added a summary, explained my rationale further." Text="It seems these days people (and thus laptop manufacturers) don't care about how long a laptop lasts for, since I guess they don't care how wasteful it is to buy a new one every year or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I do. I realise that depending on my buying choices, I could spend about the same amount of money getting cheap laptops every three years rather than a durable laptop every ten years. This isn't about money. This is about reducing my ecological footprint and my electronic waste. (Actually, it *would* be about money if the [hidden environmental costs][1] of manufacturing an extra two laptops per person every ten years were properly accounted for by our governments through regulation. But they aren't. So, I'll have to do the accounting myself.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An honest person will admit that high-powered games notwithstanding, laptops have been doing largely the same thing for about ten years and there actually hasn't been a real need to increase performance for a long while, in spite of what the laptop manufacturers and microsoft may say. That's why I think ten years is a fair target to set for my next laptop's lifetime. Is there any laptop with a warranty that comes close to that? What's the best there is right now? Are there some older (2 years maybe) laptops that, though their warranty may not cover continued use, have withstood the test of time and are known for their durability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current one—an IBM Thinkpad X40—is actually about that old now. Though it still works *amazingly* well, due to the general sloppiness of the people writing the more mainstream software I have to run a lightweight Linux distribution (archlinux) on it to get reasonably good performance. This is becoming increasingly annoying. Hence this search for a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in summary,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. ~10 year lifetime. With warranty would be preferred, but I realise that is just about impossible in this industry at the moment.&#xD;&#xA; - Suitable for general use, i.e. WWW with javascript, HTML5 and video, which is about the hardest thing this laptop would ever have to do. Any new high-powered games are completely unnecessary, and probably impossible in any case, since I'd be running Linux.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running Linux. This one is virtually guaranteed, though, so don't discount a certain machine you have in mind because you're not sure about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other things that make a good laptop—good battery life, low price, nice and light, etc. All this is nice, but strictly optional, especially since many compete with reliability and durability, especially price and weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_full-cost_accounting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="96f79dbb-ea58-42a7-a3f0-877c305d9041" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:43:13.967" UserId="478" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="It seems these days people (and thus laptop manufacturers) don't care about how long a laptop lasts for, since I guess they don't care how wasteful it is to buy a new one every year or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I do. I realise that depending on my buying choices, I could spend about the same amount of money getting cheap laptops every three years rather than a durable laptop every ten years. This isn't about money. This is about reducing my ecological footprint and my electronic waste. (Actually, it *would* be about money if the [hidden environmental costs][1] of manufacturing an extra two laptops per person every ten years were properly accounted for by our governments through regulation. But they aren't. So, I'll have to do the accounting myself.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An honest person will admit that high-powered games notwithstanding, laptops have been doing largely the same thing for about ten years and there actually hasn't been a real need to increase performance for a long while, in spite of what the laptop manufacturers and microsoft may say. That's why I think ten years is a fair target to set for my next laptop's lifetime. Is there any laptop with a warranty that comes close to that? What's the best there is right now? Are there some older (2 years maybe) laptops that, though their warranty may not cover continued use, have withstood the test of time and are known for their durability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current one—an IBM Thinkpad X40—is actually about that old now. Though it still works *amazingly* well, due to the general sloppiness of the people writing the more mainstream software I have to run a lightweight Linux distribution (archlinux) on it to get reasonably good performance. This is becoming increasingly annoying. Hence this search for a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in summary,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. ~10 year lifetime. With warranty would be preferred, but I realise that is just about impossible in this industry at the moment.&#xD;&#xA; - Suitable for general use, i.e. WWW with javascript, HTML5 and video, which is about the hardest thing this laptop would ever have to do. Any new high-powered games are completely unnecessary, and probably impossible in any case, since I'd be running Linux.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running Linux. This one is virtually guaranteed, though, so don't discount a certain machine you have in mind because you're not sure about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other things that make a good laptop—good battery life, low price, nice and light, etc. All this is nice, but strictly optional, especially since many compete *directly* with reliability and durability, especially price and weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_full-cost_accounting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1998" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="31dd9ca8-8958-4378-9bf1-718e3ca4a4a7" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:59:27.117" UserId="155" Comment="punctuation overhaul" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling.  &#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB outputs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old...). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook &amp;mdash; all of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1999" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="31dd9ca8-8958-4378-9bf1-718e3ca4a4a7" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:59:27.117" UserId="155" Comment="punctuation overhaul" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;durability&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="558" RevisionGUID="eef8d034-ea71-4777-bf9b-2be8e488f5dd" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:35:49.637" UserId="485" Text="My mother is looking for a surveillance system for her office, and also wants to buy a server for file sharing/storage (shared folders/drives primarily).&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if there is any surveillance system that includes a web server capable of handling the cameras and the file sharing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a small office only 2-4 computers sharing files. And the number of video cameras would be 8, and they need to be able to stream via the internet. The video cameras need to have good resolution.&#xD;&#xA;Most likely 4 video cameras outdoors, and 4 indoors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If no such system exists, I am curious to know if having 8 cameras would require a very expensive server to keep them up with the file sharing at the same time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="558" RevisionGUID="eef8d034-ea71-4777-bf9b-2be8e488f5dd" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:35:49.637" UserId="485" Text="Surveillance system with shared files/drive? as bundle?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2008" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="558" RevisionGUID="eef8d034-ea71-4777-bf9b-2be8e488f5dd" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:35:49.637" UserId="485" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2009" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="559" RevisionGUID="53f98a4d-e7a3-4e34-9088-697180a97e22" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:47:48.057" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for MicroSD cards for my Mobius action cam. It's manual says the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For the best compatibility use cards with a class 4 rating if&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you have them. There is absolutely no advantage in using &#xD;&#xA;&gt; cards with a higher rating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite of the manual above I have problems with a Kingston 64GB class 10 card (MBLY10G2/64GB or SDCX10/64GB) formatted by the camera to FAT32. (I was not able to find any SanDisk nor Kingston 64GB class 4 microSD card, class 10 is the minimum in this size.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use MOV file format, 1080p 30fps and super quality. Using MOV file format also means that the last second of the previous file is repeated at the beginning of the next file when the camera starts a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using Kingston SDCX10/64GB every file (except the first one) has a few bad frames between the 2nd and 10th seconds and there are 2-3 missing seconds in the video as well. [MPlayer on Linux][1] (as well as VLC) prints lots of these errors while I'm playing the first 10 seconds:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Error while decoding frame!&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]AVC: nal size -1790556904&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]AVC: nal size -1790556904&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]no frame!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess it's because of the one second overlap, the memory card could not cope with the twice as many data when switching files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm afraid plain 64GB class 10 cards could be also too slow for this scenario. So I'm looking for a MicroSD card which 100% works with Mobius action cam, MOV file format, super quality, 1080p 30fps. (I would also appreciate experience with other cards which has the same issue as the Kingston one above.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://mplayerhq.hu/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2010" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="559" RevisionGUID="53f98a4d-e7a3-4e34-9088-697180a97e22" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:47:48.057" UserId="199" Text="64GB+ memory card for Mobius action cam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2011" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="559" RevisionGUID="53f98a4d-e7a3-4e34-9088-697180a97e22" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:47:48.057" UserId="199" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="559" RevisionGUID="fd8bd383-cd01-4d9e-a162-ef748cdb0618" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:53:17.317" UserId="199" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for MicroSD cards for my Mobius action cam. It's manual says the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For the best compatibility use cards with a class 4 rating if&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you have them. There is absolutely no advantage in using &#xD;&#xA;&gt; cards with a higher rating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite of the manual above I have problems with a Kingston 64GB class 10 card (MBLY10G2/64GB or SDCX10/64GB) formatted by the camera to FAT32. (I was not able to find any SanDisk nor Kingston 64GB class 4 microSD card, class 10 is the minimum in this size.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use MOV file format, 1080p 30fps and super quality. Using MOV file format also means that the last second of the previous file is repeated at the beginning of the next file when the camera starts a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using Kingston SDCX10/64GB every file (except the first one) has a few bad frames between the 2nd and 10th seconds and there are 2-3 missing seconds in the video as well. [MPlayer on Linux][1] (as well as VLC) prints lots of these errors while I'm playing the first 10 seconds:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Error while decoding frame!&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]AVC: nal size -1790556904&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]AVC: nal size -1790556904&#xD;&#xA;    [h264 @ 0x7fb839d08440]no frame!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess it's because of the one second overlap, the memory card could not cope with the double amount of data when switching files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm afraid plain 64GB class 10 cards could be also too slow for this scenario. So I'm looking for a MicroSD card which 100% works with Mobius action cam, MOV file format, super quality, 1080p 30fps. (I would also appreciate experience with other cards which has the same issue as the Kingston one above.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://mplayerhq.hu/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="528" RevisionGUID="36481745-bb10-4b02-9dc3-a3a69dd80804" CreationDate="2015-10-06T23:13:57.163" UserId="376" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a prosumer [FDM][1] 3D printer.  I have the following requirements, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. 2+ printing nozzles&#xD;&#xA;2. &lt;= 40 micron layer height.&#xD;&#xA;3. Capable of printing in all commonly available plastics &amp; support materials, e.g. PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, Laywood, TPU etcetera.&#xD;&#xA;4. Capable of printing high-temperature materials such as Polycarbonate, PET &amp; Nylon&#xD;&#xA;5. Not dependent on proprietary consumables supplies - able to use generic 1.75 or 3mm filament.&#xD;&#xA;6. Large print volume - 200mm+ in at least one dimension.&#xD;&#xA;7. Capable of running from an Australian 240V power socket.&#xD;&#xA;8. Enclosed cabinet.&#xD;&#xA;9. Capable of operation with open-source software.&#xD;&#xA;10. Low cost:- must be below $10,000 AUD, preferably below $5,000 AUD.&#xD;&#xA;11. Australian supplier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that there is probably no machine that meets all these criteria, so preference will be given to recommendations that address the criteria in top-to-bottom order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="560" RevisionGUID="4d2704dc-b66d-4410-8c6f-3492e275b419" CreationDate="2015-10-07T00:51:17.743" UserId="476" Text="This looks really great, but remember, it is huge. It's like a mini supercomputer!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.eurocom.com/ec/configure%281,224,0%29ec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure what the outside is made of, but I don't think it will break. The only problem is that it is 17 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So perhaps the Origin EON 15-X, which has a desktop CPU (6700k) and a GTX 980M would be good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="560" RevisionGUID="6a1c6ced-a58a-4b37-b165-fb7691a2c9d4" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:03:23.060" UserId="476" Comment="added 119 characters in body" Text="This looks really great, but remember, it is huge. It's like a mini supercomputer!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.eurocom.com/ec/configure%281,224,0%29ec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure what the outside is made of, but I don't think it will break.  It has a 12 core Xeon and Dual GTX 980M which is probably one of the most powerful laptops you can find on the market. The only problem is that it is 17 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So perhaps the Origin EON 15-X, which has a desktop CPU (6700k) and a GTX 980M would be good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2016" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="9d5b8f10-f4d3-4edd-b6f9-52afddab34c2" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:55:38.963" UserId="60" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. All the components that I(read: we) have picked out for this computer need a place that they can call home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a computer case that fits the requirments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - no smaller than an ATX-Mid case&#xD;&#xA; - can support all picked out parts (listed and linked below)&#xD;&#xA; - easy to work with, meaning no strange support bars, opens up fairly well, and drive bays are organized.&#xD;&#xA; - have adequate air cooling capabilities for gaming and rendering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least one 5.25 drive bay in case he wants a CD drive.&#xD;&#xA;- easy to move. Anything like handles that help move a tower around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The parts I have picked out are: [ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer motherboard](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [Cooler Master Hyper 12 EVO heatsink](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/297/60), [EVGA GTX 980 graphics card](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60), and the [Corsair AX760 power supply](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/60). I will also be getting two 3.5&quot; HDDs and one 2.5&quot; SSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2017" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="9d5b8f10-f4d3-4edd-b6f9-52afddab34c2" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:55:38.963" UserId="60" Text="Computer case for new college build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2018" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="9d5b8f10-f4d3-4edd-b6f9-52afddab34c2" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:55:38.963" UserId="60" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2019" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="3cc55386-7ff9-4674-9339-8a0d190ee225" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:46:44.837" UserId="155" Text="I have to recommend my favorite: the [Fractal Design Define R5](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black). This case is beyond excellent for everything you'd ever want. It's also one of the highest-rated cases for noise reduction (meaning it's _very_ quiet). The specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX mid&#xD;&#xA;- Quick-release side panel for easy access&#xD;&#xA;- Removable ODD and HDD cages, removable fan slot covers, removable optical drive bay covers&#xD;&#xA;- 8 HDD bays (can fit 2.5&quot; SSDs as well), 2 SSD bays&#xD;&#xA;- 6+ fan positions and 3+ radiator positions&#xD;&#xA;- Interior is partly covered in noise-reducing foam&#xD;&#xA;- Rubber feet to greatly reduce surface vibration&#xD;&#xA;- Easily removable and cleanable dust filters on the bottom and front&#xD;&#xA;- Front door hides front dust filter, front fans, and fan voltage switches (the clean, minimal style is amazing)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard mount area provides extra SSD mounts&#xD;&#xA;- 7 PCI expansion slots&#xD;&#xA;- Front interface: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, audio jacks&#xD;&#xA;- 22.69 pounds &amp;ndash; with a full computer, the weight is still easy to carry around&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And one of the best things about this case: the included Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fans. These things are **extremely** quiet and can be sped up/slowed down via the switch behind the front door. Overall, this case is simply one of the best." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2020" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="0521d55e-e7f0-443c-b80f-e0d28181f428" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:52:07.643" UserId="155" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="I have to recommend my favorite: the [Fractal Design Define R5](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black). This case is beyond excellent for everything you'd ever want. It's also one of the highest-rated cases for noise reduction (meaning it's _very_ quiet). The specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX mid&#xD;&#xA;- Quick-release side panel for easy access&#xD;&#xA;- Removable ODD and HDD cages, removable fan slot covers, removable optical drive bay covers&#xD;&#xA;- 8 HDD bays (can fit 2.5&quot; SSDs as well), 2 SSD bays&#xD;&#xA;- 6+ fan positions and 3+ radiator positions&#xD;&#xA;- Interior is partly covered in noise-reducing foam&#xD;&#xA;- Rubber feet to greatly reduce surface vibration&#xD;&#xA;- Easily removable and cleanable dust filters on the bottom and front&#xD;&#xA;- Front door hides front dust filter, front fans, and fan voltage switches (the clean, minimal style is amazing)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard mount area provides extra SSD mounts&#xD;&#xA;- 7 PCI expansion slots&#xD;&#xA;- Front interface: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, audio jacks&#xD;&#xA;- 22.69 pounds &amp;ndash; with a full computer, the weight is still easy to carry around&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And one of the best things about this case: the included Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fans. These things are **extremely** quiet and can be sped up/slowed down via the switch behind the front door. Overall, this case is simply one of the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qGVlT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="563" RevisionGUID="2e028e6a-a098-48c0-b2f2-871dc4225ed7" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:02:56.900" UserId="486" Text="I'm working on a project to connect a Finch bot to a Raspberry Pi, with a portable battery pack for power (the battery pack provides two USB type-A outputs). Normally, the Finch runs on a long USB cable from a computer, so it gets both power and data via its one type-B port. For this project, I need to provide data from the Pi, and power from the battery pack to the Finch. I want to avoid using a USB hub, if possible, because all relevant hardware must be mounted onto the Finch. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, could I split open some USB cables, and connect the data wires to a USB cable coming out of the Pi, and connect the power wires to a USB cable coming out of the battery pack (thus ending up with a kludgy Y-split cable)? It seems like if this were possible, the cable would already exist, but I haven't found one. Before I go nuts with the soldering iron, can I get some feedback? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2022" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="563" RevisionGUID="2e028e6a-a098-48c0-b2f2-871dc4225ed7" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:02:56.900" UserId="486" Text="Is it possible to split a USB cable to take power from one source and data from another?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2023" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="563" RevisionGUID="2e028e6a-a098-48c0-b2f2-871dc4225ed7" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:02:56.900" UserId="486" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2024" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="90663a51-390d-4da5-b357-c6da81525932" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:11:19.457" UserId="342" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;durability&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;&lt;gpu&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="90663a51-390d-4da5-b357-c6da81525932" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:11:19.457" UserId="342" Comment="edited tags" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling.  &#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB ( VGA ) outputs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old...). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook &amp;mdash; all of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2027" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="ea0de832-2ded-4126-81ab-d566687bbfe4" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:20:06.470" UserId="342" Comment="Updated forgoten requirements ( screen )" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling.  &#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB ( VGA ) outputs&#xD;&#xA; - preferably 15 &quot; screen. High res ( 1920-by-1080 and above )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old.. at that time it was the only model with 1920-by-1080 screen. and again , we are talking 7 years ! ). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook &amp;mdash; all of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2028" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="27e14d40-ce02-4914-bdb6-9ff821a59bea" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:29:49.167" UserId="342" Comment="deleted 24 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling.  &#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB ( VGA ) outputs&#xD;&#xA; - High res ( 1920-by-1080 and above )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old.. at that time it was the only model with 1920-by-1080 screen. and again , we are talking 7 years ! ). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook &amp;mdash; all of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="564" RevisionGUID="420e4ccc-05f8-4f9a-b58e-53b77b3c74fe" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:12:39.667" UserId="57" Text="I recommend a Phanteks [&quot;Enthoo Pro Series&quot;][1] full ATX case, which is $100 on Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Phantek - Enthoo Pro Series][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main machine rests in this case. It sits behind my desk and the fans are very quiet. As an added benefit, I know it fits the [parts][3] I've recommended in the other [answers][4] I've provided, plus a full sized video card, optical drive and multiple HDDs and SSDs. It also has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 External 5.25&quot; bays &#xD;&#xA; - 6 Internal bays for HDDs&#xD;&#xA; - 7 Internal bays for SSDs&#xD;&#xA; - Front USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports, Mic and Headphone&#xD;&#xA; - A power button on the top of the machine (instead of on the front, which is nice for it's placement in my office)&#xD;&#xA; - Dust filters over the fans (yay!) and they are easily removable&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It supports water cooling if you ever wish to go that route. I have not had any issues with heat in this and I only use air cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wiring, with this case, is one of the easier cases I've dealt with. Both side panels remove and there is a small gap on the &quot;back&quot; (which is 'under' the motherboard, if you lay it on the side) for you to run cables. These cables can be brought back to the front through rubber points along the outside of the motherboard (once mounted to the case). This feature keeps the number of cables that block air flow to a minimum. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Case Interior][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything in this case is opened with either a standard screw driver, thumbscrews or, in the case of the internal drive bays, a simple latch that locks the bay into place. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case is a bit heavy - 26 pounds, empty - but I move my computers so rarely that it doesn't bother me. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vWpe4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/57&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/57&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WnROU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="00b4743f-14b6-45b2-8dd2-7ef6ce110ead" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:30:24.753" UserId="342" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling.  &#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB ( VGA ) outputs&#xD;&#xA; - High res ( 1920-by-1080 and above )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old.. at that time it was the only model with 1920-by-1080 screen. and again , we are talking 7 years ! ). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], and HP Z series or Elitbook &amp;mdash, or [aorus 14](http://www.aorus.com/); all of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="565" RevisionGUID="7f8a6ebd-3e3f-4c1f-9df9-2db3b361e513" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:56:19.253" UserId="30" Text="I want to buy a computer/laptop/tablet/whatever-computing-device for a blind user who’ll operate it while lying in bed. It will primarily be used for plain text notes, emails, browsing the Web, and listening to podcasts and videos, so the hardware specs shouldn’t matter much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be operated by using a physical keyboard and by listening to a [screen reader](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_reader).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It should have **no screen**; or at least a screen that can be turned off permanently (so that it takes no power). &#xD;&#xA;* It must support **WLAN**.&#xD;&#xA;* It should support **Bluetooth**.&#xD;&#xA;* If built-in, the **speakers should be good**; so that listening to the screen reader and podcasts won’t be unbearable (like it’s the case with many speakers in monitors).&#xD;&#xA;* If built-in, the **keyboard should be good**: not tiny, not these very flat keys, each key must be easily distinguishable, the marks on the *F* and *J* keys should be prominent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t know which category of computer would be the most suitable; I guess any could work:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It could be a device standing on a table in the same room as the bed (like a desktop PC, laptop/netbook/etc., tablet, smartphone, etc.) that gets operated via Bluetooh keyboard (and possibly Bluetooth speakers) … if that’s even feasible?&#xD;&#xA;* It could be a notebook (or netbook etc.), used on the lap. But I guess the (switched off) screen would be hindering (tipping over because the screen is heavier) and heat generation might become a problem if used for a long time in bed.&#xD;&#xA;* It could be a specialized device for blind people (I know there’s one where the computer and speakers are built into the keyboard, so to say; but it doesn’t allow you to install a full-featured operating system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it’s a device that allows installation of a PC operating system, I’ll install a GNU/Linux distribution (Debian or [ADRIANE](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knoppix#Adriane_Knoppix)). If it’s a mobile device, the OS must have a screen reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: &lt; 600 EUR.  &#xD;&#xA;It will be used in Germany." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2032" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="565" RevisionGUID="7f8a6ebd-3e3f-4c1f-9df9-2db3b361e513" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:56:19.253" UserId="30" Text="Computer (of any type) without screen, for bed-ridden blind person" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2033" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="565" RevisionGUID="7f8a6ebd-3e3f-4c1f-9df9-2db3b361e513" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:56:19.253" UserId="30" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2034" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="565" RevisionGUID="fb1f91ec-0551-4e61-832e-0a67150d9257" CreationDate="2015-10-07T05:40:58.603" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2035" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="566" RevisionGUID="b3d96aaf-1be7-4885-be03-6f3271813345" CreationDate="2015-10-07T07:09:59.850" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="567" RevisionGUID="8231c435-54d3-497e-a85f-66699d7a0b86" CreationDate="2015-10-07T07:09:59.850" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="c091b718-a110-4d96-a17b-a7cd5b547a5c" CreationDate="2015-10-07T07:58:20.800" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag; cleaned up punctuation for clarity" Text="I am looking for a laptop that would be very high-end graphic wise, and that can be used for rendering and 3D modeling. There are a LOT of high-end laptop reviews out there, but most are gaming-oriented, and although there are a lot of common requirements between gaming and 3D modeling/rendering, it is not exactly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3ds Max (Vray + real time)&#xD;&#xA; - Mari&#xD;&#xA; - Autocad&#xD;&#xA; - Rhino 3D&#xD;&#xA; - Solidworks&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe suit (mainly Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solid heavy-duty build (especially hinges) &amp;ndash; no plastics, I travel a lot&#xD;&#xA; - CD bay (not really a must but a huge plus)&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ HD bays (see CD bay above)&#xD;&#xA; - No bigger than 15&quot; (actually my yardstick is a keyboard with no numpad...)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and normal 16-pin RGB (VGA) outputs&#xD;&#xA; - High res (1920x1080 and above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My last laptop was a semi-custom-made HP 8530P (11,500 euros!), which unbelievably is still working with current versions of all above listed software (and it is 7 years old.. At that time it was the only model with 1920x1080 screen. And again, we are talking 7 years!). I had upgraded it a lot over the years (2 SSD, RAM), but still &amp;ndash; it is impressive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am looking into the [Alienware 15][1] or [13][2] (a bit bulky), [Origin 15s Pro][3], HP Z series or EliteBook, or [Aorus 14](http://www.aorus.com/). All of them without CD bay, but I am really open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last fact: since it is for professional work, budget is not an issue. My last laptop mentioned above paid for itself in 3 weeks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-15-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-13-r2/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/evo15-s-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2038" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="555" RevisionGUID="c091b718-a110-4d96-a17b-a7cd5b547a5c" CreationDate="2015-10-07T07:58:20.800" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag; cleaned up punctuation for clarity" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;durability&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="525ee086-808d-4bd3-a97d-2c2d56f3fabb" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:19:12.210" UserId="20" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="569" RevisionGUID="bd5caf6b-7d4a-4e83-aa40-aabdbfd72194" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:20:37.710" UserId="497" Text="We use the HP Z Books at work for Solidworks/Ansys, they perform surprisingly well, we compared them to existing HP Z800 desktops and they were as fast/faster in tests relevant to our work (solve times, rendering, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're limited to 32GB Ram and 2 512GB SSD's + Blueray/DVD, but depending on your requirements that may be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They weight around 3kg so not the most portable, cost is around £2500." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="488676a3-9946-4724-aba1-dafa89bb2935" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:28:35.053" UserId="177" Text="What are currently the best low-cost (&lt; 1000 USD) depth sensors in terms of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range (at least 3 meters, the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - size&#xD;&#xA; - power consumption (preferably USB powered)&#xD;&#xA; - spatial resolution/accuracy&#xD;&#xA; - depth resolution/accuracy&#xD;&#xA; - robustness (lighting conditions, amount of unknown pixels)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After Primesense was sold to Apple, there hasn't been a single obvious choice for a robot depth sensor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To my knowledge, Kinect v2 is the most accurate, but it's quite big and requires an additional power supply and a terrible amount of extra cables and adapters:&#xD;&#xA;[![Cable hell MS style][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, I could not find if libfreenect2 can be used in commercial products. Being Windows-only would be a huge turn-off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SoftKinetic DS-311 is perhaps the closest to what Primesense used to be, but maybe not as accurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some other low-cost cameras that I found, but they have a short range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - pmd[vision] camboard nano&#xD;&#xA;  - SoftKinetic DS-325&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and others with a long range but high cost:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Panasonic D-Imager&#xD;&#xA;  - pmd[vision] CamCube 3.0&#xD;&#xA;  - SwissRanger SR4500&#xD;&#xA;  - Odos Imaging Real.iZ-1K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What upcoming sensors are there? I found Orbbec Persee, which is coming soon and claims to be the best in everything, but looking at the image is not very convincing:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/nkSb6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/mXXbM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="488676a3-9946-4724-aba1-dafa89bb2935" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:28:35.053" UserId="177" Text="New low-cost depth sensors for robotics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="488676a3-9946-4724-aba1-dafa89bb2935" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:28:35.053" UserId="177" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="571" RevisionGUID="375a0595-b764-48d8-9edf-d82f49a0324f" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:29:28.397" UserId="498" Text="To answer the question you asked, and a couple you didn't...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is it possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Do they exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not to my knowledge - it's a very niche use to have to power from an entirely different source to the data, so nobody bothers making them&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can I make my own?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Any other alternatives?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A USB-Y connector takes power from two different USB ports, while only connecting data to one. This may or may not help in your specific case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="e8ede029-ab17-4f01-ae0a-f1f358c69780" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:05:43.647" UserId="20" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km, provided you can modify them: [electronics.stackexchange.com](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/) should be able to help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2048" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="7b11545a-bb55-4647-abdd-b0dd4bfb624b" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:12:03.423" UserId="20" Comment="added 180 characters in body" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km, provided you can modify them: [electronics.stackexchange.com](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/) should be able to help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper still is [Ronja (Reasonable Optical Near Joint Access)](http://hackaday.com/2005/06/13/ronja-optical-data-link/), at 60 USD + 70 man hours for a 10Mbps optical communication link at distances of up to 1.4km." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2049" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="b1cdc0c3-c6c7-4401-ab13-ee2b99182460" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:16:10.243" UserId="60" Comment="Added [pc] tag. Added more info to question." Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. All the components that I(read: we) have picked out for this computer need a place that they can call home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a computer case that fits the requirments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - no smaller than an ATX-Mid case&#xD;&#xA; - can support all picked out parts (listed and linked below)&#xD;&#xA; - easy to work with, meaning no strange support bars, opens up fairly well, and drive bays are organized.&#xD;&#xA; - have adequate air cooling capabilities for gaming and rendering&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 front USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - at least one 5.25 drive bay in case he wants a CD drive.&#xD;&#xA; - easy to move. Anything like handles that help move a tower around.&#xD;&#xA; - bottom mounted PSU that allows the fan to be facing downward&#xD;&#xA; - at least one of those USB ports being USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The parts I have picked out are: [ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer motherboard](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [Cooler Master Hyper 12 EVO heatsink](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/297/60), [EVGA GTX 980 graphics card](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60), and the [Corsair AX760 power supply](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/60). I will also be getting two 3.5&quot; HDDs and one 2.5&quot; SSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2050" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="b1cdc0c3-c6c7-4401-ab13-ee2b99182460" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:16:10.243" UserId="60" Comment="Added [pc] tag. Added more info to question." Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2051" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="564" RevisionGUID="523bdd8c-741d-426d-a758-981863207c2e" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:38:57.447" UserId="60" Comment="Added PSU information" Text="I recommend a Phanteks [&quot;Enthoo Pro Series&quot;][1] full ATX case, which is $100 on Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Phantek - Enthoo Pro Series][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main machine rests in this case. It sits behind my desk and the fans are very quiet. As an added benefit, I know it fits the [parts][3] I've recommended in the other [answers][4] I've provided, plus a full sized video card, optical drive and multiple HDDs and SSDs. It also has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 External 5.25&quot; bays &#xD;&#xA; - 6 Internal bays for HDDs&#xD;&#xA; - 7 Internal bays for SSDs&#xD;&#xA; - Front USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports, Mic and Headphone&#xD;&#xA; - A power button on the top of the machine (instead of on the front, which is nice for it's placement in my office)&#xD;&#xA; - Dust filters over the fans (yay!) and they are easily removable&#xD;&#xA; - Has air vents on the bottom for the fan of the PSU&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It supports water cooling if you ever wish to go that route. I have not had any issues with heat in this and I only use air cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wiring, with this case, is one of the easier cases I've dealt with. Both side panels remove and there is a small gap on the &quot;back&quot; (which is 'under' the motherboard, if you lay it on the side) for you to run cables. These cables can be brought back to the front through rubber points along the outside of the motherboard (once mounted to the case). This feature keeps the number of cables that block air flow to a minimum. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Case Interior][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything in this case is opened with either a standard screw driver, thumbscrews or, in the case of the internal drive bays, a simple latch that locks the bay into place. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case is a bit heavy - 26 pounds, empty - but I move my computers so rarely that it doesn't bother me. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vWpe4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/57&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/57&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WnROU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2052" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="564" RevisionGUID="523bdd8c-741d-426d-a758-981863207c2e" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:38:57.447" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 57 edit id of 162" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="336f4025-3547-4e94-881f-c4c1def19e46" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:48:50.620" UserId="60" Comment="Added pricing and PSU location information" Text="I have to recommend my favorite: the [Fractal Design Define R5](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black). This case is beyond excellent for everything you'd ever want. It's also one of the highest-rated cases for noise reduction (meaning it's _very_ quiet). The specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX mid&#xD;&#xA;- Quick-release side panel for easy access&#xD;&#xA;- Removable ODD and HDD cages, removable fan slot covers, removable optical drive bay covers&#xD;&#xA;- 8 HDD bays (can fit 2.5&quot; SSDs as well), 2 SSD bays&#xD;&#xA;- 6+ fan positions and 3+ radiator positions&#xD;&#xA;- Interior is partly covered in noise-reducing foam&#xD;&#xA;- Rubber feet to greatly reduce surface vibration&#xD;&#xA;- Easily removable and cleanable dust filters on the bottom and front&#xD;&#xA;- Front door hides front dust filter, front fans, and fan voltage switches (the clean, minimal style is amazing)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard mount area provides extra SSD mounts&#xD;&#xA;- 7 PCI expansion slots&#xD;&#xA;- Front interface: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, audio jacks&#xD;&#xA;- 22.69 pounds &amp;ndash; with a full computer, the weight is still easy to carry around&#xD;&#xA;- It has 3 color options and costs $110 USD. There is an optional clear side panel that adds another $10 to the cost. ([Newegg link](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352048&amp;cm_re=Fractal_Design_Define_R5-_-11-352-048-_-Product))&#xD;&#xA;- Bottom mounted PSU that allows the fan to be mounted on the bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And one of the best things about this case: the included Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fans. These things are **extremely** quiet and can be sped up/slowed down via the switch behind the front door. Overall, this case is simply one of the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qGVlT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2054" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="336f4025-3547-4e94-881f-c4c1def19e46" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:48:50.620" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 57, -1 edit id of 161" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="5178ef17-2403-4b64-b266-ef47275fd98b" CreationDate="2015-10-07T14:48:50.620" UserId="8" Comment="Added pricing and PSU location information" Text="I have to recommend my favorite: the [Fractal Design Define R5](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black). This case is beyond excellent for everything you'd ever want. It's also one of the highest-rated cases for noise reduction (meaning it's _very_ quiet). The specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX mid&#xD;&#xA;- Quick-release side panel for easy access&#xD;&#xA;- Removable ODD and HDD cages, removable fan slot covers, removable optical drive bay covers&#xD;&#xA;- 8 HDD bays (can fit 2.5&quot; SSDs as well), 2 SSD bays&#xD;&#xA;- 6+ fan positions and 3+ radiator positions&#xD;&#xA;- Interior is partly covered in noise-reducing foam&#xD;&#xA;- Rubber feet to greatly reduce surface vibration&#xD;&#xA;- Easily removable and cleanable dust filters on the bottom and front&#xD;&#xA;- Front door hides front dust filter, front fans, and fan voltage switches (the clean, minimal style is amazing)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard mount area provides extra SSD mounts&#xD;&#xA;- 7 PCI expansion slots&#xD;&#xA;- Front interface: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, audio jacks&#xD;&#xA;- 22.69 pounds &amp;ndash; with a full computer, the weight is still easy to carry around&#xD;&#xA;- It has 3 color options and costs $110 USD. There is an optional clear side panel that adds another $10 to the cost. (Can be [found on Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352048&amp;cm_re=Fractal_Design_Define_R5-_-11-352-048-_-Product))&#xD;&#xA;- Bottom mounted PSU that allows the fan to be mounted on the bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And one of the best things about this case: the included Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fans. These things are **extremely** quiet and can be sped up/slowed down via the switch behind the front door. Overall, this case is simply one of the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qGVlT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="573" RevisionGUID="84897f5f-5ead-4b2f-94cd-ab9e1f178634" CreationDate="2015-10-07T15:37:09.483" UserId="497" Text="Generally the performance of brand name SSD's will meet all your criteria and be comparable from an end users perspective, the Samsung 850 EVO has been well received and can be had for £67 currently on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P736UEU/?tag=hotukdealsnl-21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="562" RevisionGUID="912e22b4-3d2e-45de-9092-a81b86b2aa92" CreationDate="2015-10-07T15:45:48.340" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 184 characters in body" Text="I have to recommend my favorite: the [Fractal Design Define R5](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black) (~$110 USD). This case is beyond excellent for everything you'd ever want. It's also one of the highest-rated cases for noise reduction (meaning it's _very_ quiet). The specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX mid&#xD;&#xA;- Quick-release side panel for easy access&#xD;&#xA;- Removable ODD and HDD cages, removable fan slot covers, removable optical drive bay covers&#xD;&#xA;- 8 HDD bays (can fit 2.5&quot; SSDs as well), 2 SSD bays&#xD;&#xA;- 6+ fan positions and 3+ radiator positions&#xD;&#xA;- Interior is partly covered in noise-reducing foam&#xD;&#xA;- Rubber feet to greatly reduce surface vibration&#xD;&#xA;- Easily removable and cleanable dust filters on the bottom and front&#xD;&#xA;- Front door hides front dust filter, front fans, and fan voltage switches (the clean, minimal style is amazing)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard mount area provides extra SSD mounts&#xD;&#xA;- 7 PCI expansion slots&#xD;&#xA;- Front interface: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, audio jacks&#xD;&#xA;- 22.69 pounds &amp;ndash; with a full computer, the weight is still easy to carry around&#xD;&#xA;- 3 color options and an optional side window can add $10 to the cost&#xD;&#xA;- Bottom-mounted PSU that allows the fan to be mounted facing down&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And one of the best things about this case: the included Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fans. These things are **extremely** quiet and can be sped up/slowed down via the switch behind the front door. Overall, this case is simply one of the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qGVlT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2063" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="563" RevisionGUID="b7124290-a045-4ac3-91f9-97f8981b11bc" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:05:59.413" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2064" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="567" RevisionGUID="484af898-d8a9-4f78-929e-aaf9c7bedcae" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:06:17.083" UserId="155" Comment="added 104 characters in body" Text="For questions related to technology used to enable a person with a disability to use a computing device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2065" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="567" RevisionGUID="484af898-d8a9-4f78-929e-aaf9c7bedcae" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:06:17.083" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="5c5018f7-7382-4709-a102-c7bd2251deab" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:49:04.287" UserId="128" Text="Many MacBooks don't have an internal CD drive, notably the Air, and as a result, people who have CDs are forced to get an external drive. I love music, and I've got tons of it on CDs, so I want a drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But [the drive that Apple sells](http://www.apple.com/ca/shop/product/MD564LL/A/apple-usb-superdrive) is ridiculously expensive, coming up at $99. There's mixed reviews about it as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a USB 2.0 external CD drive with decent read/write capabilities. It needs to be compatible with OS X and ideally with Windows as well. It should be fairly fast, and look decent as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm willing to spend up to $20 on this. I'm flexible on this, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that previous came &quot;standard&quot; on laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2069" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="5c5018f7-7382-4709-a102-c7bd2251deab" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:49:04.287" UserId="128" Text="External CD Drive as a substitute to the Apple Superdrive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2070" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="5c5018f7-7382-4709-a102-c7bd2251deab" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:49:04.287" UserId="128" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2071" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="af3f2250-b818-491f-9941-c65b6daf2481" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:50:55.383" UserId="501" Text="So basically I have laptop with fried motherboard everything else works: hdd, ram, CPU, screen etc. Changing motherboard is too expensive because it's half the price of the laptop and I'm poor. I need computer badly. Can I somehow buy different cheaper laptop motherboard connect external monitor, mouse, keyboard and add ram, hdd, cpu. What should I look in laptop board so it would be compatible with cpu? Is socket enough? I do not care about exterior and etc. I do not care that I wouldn't fit it case etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2072" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="af3f2250-b818-491f-9941-c65b6daf2481" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:50:55.383" UserId="501" Text="Best use out of fried laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="af3f2250-b818-491f-9941-c65b6daf2481" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:50:55.383" UserId="501" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="576" RevisionGUID="2222f44a-de07-4ea1-bbf9-3ce9e15a4024" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:14:07.077" UserId="461" Text="I ended up asking Streacom (what an idea, eh?) and they confirmed that the FC8 should work fine with Thin-ITX, such as the Asus H81T.  I'll update this answer when I'll get it all setup." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2075" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="fa4cd7d8-7f6b-4355-b0cc-5d3f93cd1171" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:29:30.660" UserId="60" Comment="Removed tags." Text="&lt;audio-quality&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2076" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="159" RevisionGUID="fa4cd7d8-7f6b-4355-b0cc-5d3f93cd1171" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:29:30.660" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 21 edit id of 163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2077" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="aa2e4432-fc00-4199-bb8b-233fe7c4369f" CreationDate="2015-10-07T20:24:37.967" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar, punctuation, and title" Text="So basically I have a laptop with a fried motherboard. Everything else works: HDD, RAM, CPU, screen etc. Replacing the motherboard is too expensive because it's half the price of the laptop and I'm poor. I need a computer badly. Can I somehow buy a different, cheaper laptop motherboard to connect to the monitor, mouse, keyboard and add RAM, HDD, CPU? What should I look for in a laptop motherboard so it would be compatible with the CPU? Is socket type enough? I do not care about the exterior or that it wouldn't fit in the case or anything else." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2078" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="aa2e4432-fc00-4199-bb8b-233fe7c4369f" CreationDate="2015-10-07T20:24:37.967" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar, punctuation, and title" Text="Replacement motherboard in fried laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2079" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="b1bcb404-80dc-46e0-9959-04186661f2d0" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:02:54.477" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the [stroage] tag into the [data-storage] tag." Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2080" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="b1bcb404-80dc-46e0-9959-04186661f2d0" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:02:54.477" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 155, 214 edit id of 164" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2081" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="e76b19c0-ac3f-4ab4-bd3d-a61f5dcf5cef" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:03:02.233" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [storage] tag." Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2082" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="349" RevisionGUID="e76b19c0-ac3f-4ab4-bd3d-a61f5dcf5cef" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:03:02.233" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 155, 214 edit id of 165" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2084" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="385" RevisionGUID="6552d371-25fd-42c9-9b13-36c89d1ac3c9" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:38:45.733" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2085" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="fd05b685-1415-404a-ba00-885609081998" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:39:18.930" UserId="155" Comment="changed out relevant tag" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2086" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="185" RevisionGUID="af2edeb9-b311-4001-90d1-5792685ea3a3" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:46:46.667" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="37" RevisionGUID="abd54e68-16b7-4fc2-9b42-3fbddf54a92a" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:55:33.290" UserId="155" Comment="minor clarifications" Text="In 2012 I've bought a Samsung Series 9 X4D ultrabook with a 15&quot; screen. I'm still quite satisfied with this product. Currently, I am searching for an additional notebook with similar requirements. Unfortunately, Samsung has withdrawn from the European notebook market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focus lies on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - haptics and workmanship &#xD;&#xA; - matte screen with at least 14&quot; and a resolution of 1600x900 or better&#xD;&#xA; - SSD only&#xD;&#xA; - large capacity&#xD;&#xA; - touchpad and keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - low weight&#xD;&#xA; - round 1000€/1100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU and graphics power are of lesser importance. It does not necessarily have to be labeled as an ultrabook either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only devices I've found so far are the Lenovo Yoga and L-Series. Are there further solutions for these requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="577" RevisionGUID="2a9344e9-05a7-4548-9bca-8ee67775e281" CreationDate="2015-10-07T22:39:35.543" UserId="155" Text="Since I recently purchased a Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro (now discontinued), I want to recommend the [Lenovo Yoga 3](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/lenovo/yoga-laptop-series/yoga-3-14/) (€630 and up). Although I haven't used this exact product, I've used its predecessor (the 2 Pro) that is nearly identical to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Physical specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Multi-gesture touchpad (scroll, zoom, swipe pages, switch windows, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- Full HD 1920x1080 multigesture touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;- ~9-hour battery life (can actually last longer if you keep the brightness down)&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit keyboard (Fn+Space toggles it)&#xD;&#xA;- Only 1.58kg/3.5lbs &amp;ndash; super light and easy to carry with one hand&#xD;&#xA;- Screen folds all the way around (laptop, tent, and tablet modes) and the display can change orientation (perfect for reading)&#xD;&#xA;- _Very_ durable with amazing build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tech specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Up to an Intel i7-5500U processor (2.4GHz)&#xD;&#xA;- GT 940M 2GB graphics card&#xD;&#xA;- Up to 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 720p webcam&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth 4.0, 802.11 A/C WiFi&#xD;&#xA;- 1x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0, 4-in-1 card reader, audio/mic combo jack, Micro-HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo Yoga 3][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Yoga 3 comes in numerous models, the best of which is only €870/$980 for all the best components. This laptop (or ultrabook, whatever you want to call it) can be used for _so many things_. Lenovo has a huge sale on the Yoga series right now with about 30% off, so I recommend looking into this soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F3SLp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="11f09c5a-9b29-481d-9df7-a78f78ba3400" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:24:12.720" UserId="502" Text="I'm looking for hardware (or dedicated server options) that enable time synchronization to within +/-200ns of UNIX Epoch. I've started looking at GPS referenced bus level timing (PCIe)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="11f09c5a-9b29-481d-9df7-a78f78ba3400" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:24:12.720" UserId="502" Text="Economical solution for time synchronization (+/-200ns)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="11f09c5a-9b29-481d-9df7-a78f78ba3400" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:24:12.720" UserId="502" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="b99d1aac-12c2-4c01-8c56-9f69e77732a8" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:39:10.693" UserId="502" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for programming with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: &lt;= 6 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8gb&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Quad Core&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Integrated (preferred) or gaming oriented (Not looking for CAD capabilities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Pluses:&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I've looked at the Lenovo T540p but don't like that it's missing three button navigation that was reintroduced with other models. The Lenovo T541 comes with three button navigation, but has a CAD oriented GPU with no option to downgrade to integrated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="b99d1aac-12c2-4c01-8c56-9f69e77732a8" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:39:10.693" UserId="502" Text="Laptop for programming that meets the listed requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="b99d1aac-12c2-4c01-8c56-9f69e77732a8" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:39:10.693" UserId="502" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="cb7a189a-497d-4389-8570-2292309fe9c3" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:41:48.017" UserId="155" Comment="formatting" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for programming with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: &lt;= 6 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Quad Core&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Integrated (preferred) or gaming oriented (Not looking for CAD capabilities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Lenovo T540p but don't like that it's missing three button navigation that was reintroduced with other models. The Lenovo T541 comes with three button navigation, but has a CAD oriented GPU with no option to downgrade to integrated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2096" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="1b8533be-d6dd-44dd-bf69-8c952a2fada2" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:44:42.070" UserId="502" Comment="Added budget" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for programming with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: &lt;= 6 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Quad Core&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Integrated (preferred) or gaming oriented (Not looking for CAD capabilities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'm willing to spend up to $2000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Lenovo T540p but don't like that it's missing three button navigation that was reintroduced with other models. The Lenovo T541 comes with three button navigation, but has a CAD oriented GPU with no option to downgrade to integrated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="51e9ba4d-bb61-4663-a474-7a4ff1b0f09c" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:53:56.573" UserId="502" Comment="expanded detail" Text="I'm looking for hardware (or dedicated server options) that enable time synchronization to within +/-200ns of UNIX Epoch. I've started looking at GPS referenced bus level timing (PCIe) in the $2500 range. While cost is a significant factor, I'm very interested in the value of support and strength of the API." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="560" RevisionGUID="7513da78-02df-48d2-b36f-d164868629cf" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:00:32.047" UserId="476" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="This looks really great, but remember, it is huge. It's like a mini supercomputer!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.eurocom.com/ec/configure%281,224,0%29ec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure what the outside is made of, but I don't think it will break.  It has a 12 core Xeon and Dual GTX 980M which is probably one of the most powerful laptops you can find on the market. The only problem is that it is 17 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So perhaps the Origin EON15-X, which has a desktop CPU (6700k) and a GTX 980M would be good. It is 15 inches and is probably close to the most powerful you can get at 15inches, as far as I know, anyway. I just can't see using a U series low power CPU for professional work such as this (other answer!) If you really need thin, consider the Razerblade 14 or Origin EVO15-S." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2099" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="285ce93d-b714-4971-a1e1-8685e834f9e8" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:06:34.510" UserId="476" Text="Probably the i7 6700k. It is very similar to the 4790K as recommended in all of these answers, however has a slight IPC improvement compared to the 4790k and is 14nm." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2100" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="402" RevisionGUID="bc27e90d-8630-4c1c-a41d-136345d40e8c" CreationDate="2015-10-08T03:04:27.210" UserId="60" Comment="Changed [monitor-mount] to [monitor-stand]. I dont even know why I chose that tag in the first place." Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2101" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="581" RevisionGUID="4dc0fe97-a339-4c8c-9e8e-43b1a4241f26" CreationDate="2015-10-08T05:33:37.697" UserId="162" Text="You should look at Sony's MDRV6. Its very clear, very comfortable, long lasting, and has great sound reproduction. I have used it for years and is very easy on the ears and even people sitting next to you cannot hear the music so I have used it on Airplanes and subways surrounded by others. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is widely used in sound recording studios and is currently available for $79 at Amazon. It comes with a leatherette bag that holds the headphones. The cord has never gotten tangled  but they are long ( I believe 8 feet long)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="db177632-7d58-434d-8481-d180a44f80b4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:25:15.173" UserId="199" Comment="fixed typo" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for programming with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: &lt;= 6 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Quad Core&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Integrated (preferred) or gaming oriented (Not looking for CAD capabilities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'm willing to spend up to $2000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Lenovo T540p but don't like that it's missing three button navigation that was reintroduced with other models. The Lenovo T541 comes with three button navigation, but has a CAD oriented GPU with no option to downgrade to integrated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- magic --&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2106" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="db177632-7d58-434d-8481-d180a44f80b4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:25:15.173" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 502 edit id of 168" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="597945af-1e3d-42de-9ec8-e447648bac35" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:27:08.303" UserId="502" Comment="Laptop model correction" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for programming with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: &lt;= 6 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Quad Core&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Integrated (preferred) or gaming oriented (Not looking for CAD capabilities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'm willing to spend up to $2000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Lenovo T540p but don't like that it's missing three button navigation that was reintroduced with other models. The Lenovo W541 comes with three button navigation, but has a CAD oriented GPU with no option to downgrade to integrated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- magic --&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="583" RevisionGUID="3bcd1b18-502b-43dc-9d78-0404ab889989" CreationDate="2015-10-08T11:22:40.623" UserId="389" Text="I ended up using the [Aten CM0264][1], which is a matrix KVM switch targeted at the small-office-home-office market; advanced, but not too pricey.  While the software is rather flaky (don't bother trying to do a firmware upgrade; it doesn't work), luckily the firmware it came installed with works fine and the physical build quality is excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It had 4 device ports, just enough for what I needed (I'm plugging 2 video connectors in for PC1 to allow dual screen, and one connector for each of the other 2 devices).  The ports vary between HDMI and DVI which is a bit odd, but luckily they are basically interchangeable using adapters as long as you only care about video rather than sound, and both use a digital signal (so no nasty analogue stuff like colour bleeding or fuzziness on the screen).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because it's a matrix KVM, I can independently change which input is being routed to which output console using buttons on the KVM, allowing me to display PC1 in dual screen mode, or just have one PC1 input and one PC2/PC3 input displaying (or even display PC2 and PC3 on the different screens).  I can also independently switch keyboard and mouse inputs between devices by switching the USB routing (I plug the keyboard and mouse into the separate USB slots rather than the ones associated with video console 1, as those get switched along with console 1!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all I'm pretty happy with the solution, though I'd be screwed if I needed to add a fifth video input to the setup!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/KVM/Desktop-KVM-Switches/2x4-DVI-HD-AudioVideo-Matrix-KVMP%E2%84%A2-Switch~CM0264.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="584" RevisionGUID="dcc0d7ad-6572-4009-9af5-7c22cdc29a89" CreationDate="2015-10-08T12:22:53.167" UserId="512" Text="If you are looking at a single media which you can use for 10-20 years as a backup or storage device, then it will be difficult. All of the current backup solutions require access to a computer and have a shelf life. And a computer generally has a max shelf life of 7-10 years. After 7-10 years getting a new computer which can consume the same media is dicey to say the least. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best solution is as follows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1)  As of today, i.e. 8-Oct-2015, Keep 3 external, non-Flash non-SSD, drives to backup your data. The quantity 3 has been chosen for having redundancy and if one HDD fails then you have the ability to still access your backup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) After 3-4 years or when you buy a new computer in the future, look at the most economically backup at that moment of time and move your data to the new backup. This may also entail modifying the file format from one to another. If when you buy a new computer the most economical backup is still a USB HDD then by all means stick to it. But repeat this every 3-7 years when you buy a new computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that it is assumed that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the file format that you are using to backup your data will still be around &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- you will have applications and a matching OS which can run those applications in the future which can consume those file formats. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are comfortable with cloud storage then one can use Google Drive and/or Amazon AWS services too. That will also allow you to have data storage if not for 10-20 years  then for some years in the future. However if your backup size runs into multiple hundreds of GBs then please factor in the cost of bandwidth and the time taken to upload and download the backup files. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are looking for, i.e. 10-20 years of backup, is generally required by libraries or Universities or Government departments. Since these are corporate entities or organizational entities they have agreements in place with various companies to provide them this service. So for example IBM or some other company will have a contract which says, that IBM will backup say 100 GB of data every month for say 7-10 years with certain cost escalation. These companies then maintain the hardware and software so that the data can be accessed. If you are part of a corporate entity or an organizational entity then one can approach these companies. However if one is an individual or a simple retail customer then it is not possible to do so. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="d6669e0b-07a9-44bb-91dd-5ecdd0263cf8" CreationDate="2015-10-08T16:28:30.810" UserId="8" Comment="This isn't GitHub, so we don't need commit messages :)" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; This is a quite high requirement. Industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say: you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3rd here is what I can tell you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. You need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation).&#xD;&#xA; - Ignoring point 2: DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned: lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years. So be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD).&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least: you buy a very specific technology (like Iomega Zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time. Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under Windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must consider to make your backup plan over a 5 years cycle and store your backup media in a stabilized normal environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5 years is the longest secured timespan of a device. Over those 5 years you automatically take the risk to loose your backup because you have no more warranty of your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means that, for whatever technology you use: you must redo/convert your backup media every 5 years as your platform changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also another consideration to take that is almost more important than your storage: Where is the possible target of your restore plan? In a 10 years lifespan many of those devices are dead or evolved making your backup useless or at least make your restore plan a nightmare. That is why 5 years cycles are better because you can make live your data with the infrastructure evolution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="586" RevisionGUID="83f79baa-5436-4136-a13b-89268fdc96dc" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:27:54.437" UserId="54" Text="Note 1: The score is based on your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: Typical workstation rarely has a gaming cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 3: Typical gaming laptop rarely has a fingerprint reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 4: Most of the newest touchpads have not separated buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 1** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thinkpad T450s][1]: Score 5/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad has separated the trackpoint buttons into 3. That's why the buttons are a lot easier to press because you don't have to click the whole trackpad down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [notebookcheck.net][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fortunately, there is a workaround for this problem: There are the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; easy to operate buttons of the TrackPoint above the touchpad surface,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which can also be used with the touchpad. Once you got used to this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; solution, you can work quickly and reliably with the ThinkPad again.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As an alternative, you can also completely move to the precise&#xD;&#xA;&gt; TrackPoint and completely ignore the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 3.53 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 14.0 inch 16:9 (but IPS display is available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 12GB DDR3L 1600 MHz (1 DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (x) = Intel Core i7-5600U (dual-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 240GB/256GB Solid State Drive, SATA 3 Opal 2.0 - Capable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = Intel HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓) = (available on some models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 2** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231][3]: Score: 7/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check my answer [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 5.29 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, IPS, glossy: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4710HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = HD Graphics 4600 + GeForce [GTX 960M][5] (mid-range gaming card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint isn't available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader isn't available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad hasn't separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 3**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15-8949sLV][6] - Score: 6/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 4.4 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6&quot; 3200x1800 IPS Touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4712HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (x) = Intel HD Graphics 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 (it it not typical gaming card - [check comparison with K4000M][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check: [GeForce GT 750M Gaming - Grand Theft Auto V - Dell XPS 15][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint isn't available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader isn't available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad hasn't separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T450s-Ultrabook-Review.137248.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9G7TR5kJUg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/426/54&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjRJde3Im1I&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=1246&amp;gid2=980&amp;compare=geforce-gt-750m-vs-quadro-k4000m&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0Xb63I_ZaM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="586" RevisionGUID="18712beb-614b-4772-9a05-8d861665ba04" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:33:06.070" UserId="54" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="Note 1: The score is based on your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: Typical workstation rarely has a gaming card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 3: Typical gaming laptop rarely has a fingerprint reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 4: Most of the newest touchpads have not separated buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 1** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thinkpad T450s][1]: Score 5/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad has separated the trackpoint buttons into 3. That is why the buttons are a lot easier to press because you don not have to click the whole trackpad down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [notebookcheck.net][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fortunately, there is a workaround for this problem: There are the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; easy to operate buttons of the TrackPoint above the touchpad surface,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which can also be used with the touchpad. Once you got used to this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; solution, you can work quickly and reliably with the ThinkPad again.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As an alternative, you can also completely move to the precise&#xD;&#xA;&gt; TrackPoint and completely ignore the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 3.53 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 14.0 inch 16:9 (but IPS display is available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 12GB DDR3L 1600 MHz (1 DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (x) = Intel Core i7-5600U (dual-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 240GB/256GB Solid State Drive, SATA 3 Opal 2.0 - Capable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = Intel HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓) = (available on some models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 2** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231][3]: Score: 7/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check my answer [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 5.29 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, IPS, glossy: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4710HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = HD Graphics 4600 + GeForce [GTX 960M][5] (mid-range gaming card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 3**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15-8949sLV][6] - Score: 6/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 4.4 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6&quot; 3200x1800 IPS Touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4712HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (x) = Intel HD Graphics 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 (it it not typical gaming card - [check comparison with K4000M][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check: [GeForce GT 750M Gaming - Grand Theft Auto V - Dell XPS 15][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T450s-Ultrabook-Review.137248.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9G7TR5kJUg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/426/54&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjRJde3Im1I&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=1246&amp;gid2=980&amp;compare=geforce-gt-750m-vs-quadro-k4000m&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0Xb63I_ZaM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="586" RevisionGUID="861c4bf8-f25b-48c5-abdb-e1a0146a9dd2" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:38:23.140" UserId="54" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="Note 1: The score is based on your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: A typical workstation rarely has a gaming card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 3: A typical gaming laptop rarely has a fingerprint reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 4: Most of the newest touchpads have not separated buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 1** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231][3] - Score: 7/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check my answer [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 5.29 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, IPS, glossy: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4710HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = HD Graphics 4600 + GeForce [GTX 960M][5] (mid-range gaming card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15-8949sLV][6] - Score: 6/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 4.4 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6&quot; 3200x1800 IPS Touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4712HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (x) = Intel HD Graphics 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 (it it not typical gaming card - [check comparison with K4000M][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check: [GeForce GT 750M Gaming - Grand Theft Auto V - Dell XPS 15][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 3** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thinkpad T450s][1] - Score: 5/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad has separated the trackpoint buttons into 3. That is why the buttons are a lot easier to press because you don not have to click the whole trackpad down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [notebookcheck.net][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fortunately, there is a workaround for this problem: There are the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; easy to operate buttons of the TrackPoint above the touchpad surface,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which can also be used with the touchpad. Once you got used to this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; solution, you can work quickly and reliably with the ThinkPad again.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As an alternative, you can also completely move to the precise&#xD;&#xA;&gt; TrackPoint and completely ignore the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 3.53 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 14.0 inch 16:9 (but IPS display is available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 12GB DDR3L 1600 MHz (1 DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (x) = Intel Core i7-5600U (dual-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 240GB/256GB Solid State Drive, SATA 3 Opal 2.0 - Capable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = Intel HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓) = (available on some models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T450s-Ultrabook-Review.137248.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9G7TR5kJUg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/426/54&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjRJde3Im1I&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=1246&amp;gid2=980&amp;compare=geforce-gt-750m-vs-quadro-k4000m&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0Xb63I_ZaM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="586" RevisionGUID="11835987-3425-4931-878c-3d92fdaba327" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:00:20.880" UserId="54" Comment="edited body" Text="Note 1: The score is based on your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: A typical workstation rarely has a gaming card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 3: A typical gaming laptop rarely has a fingerprint reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 4: Most of the newest touchpads have not separated buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 1** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231][3] - Score: 7/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check my answer [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 5.29 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, IPS, glossy: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4710HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = HD Graphics 4600 + GeForce [GTX 960M][5] (mid-range gaming card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15-8949sLV][6] - Score: 6/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 4.4 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6&quot; 3200x1800 IPS Touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4712HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (x) = Intel HD Graphics 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 (it it not typical gaming card - [check comparison with K4000M][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check: [GeForce GT 750M Gaming - Grand Theft Auto V - Dell XPS 15][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 3** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thinkpad T450s][1] - Score: 5/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad has separated the trackpoint buttons into 3. That is why the buttons are a lot easier to press because you don not have to click the whole trackpad down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [notebookcheck.net][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fortunately, there is a workaround for this problem: There are the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; easy to operate buttons of the TrackPoint above the touchpad surface,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which can also be used with the touchpad. Once you got used to this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; solution, you can work quickly and reliably with the ThinkPad again.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As an alternative, you can also completely move to the precise&#xD;&#xA;&gt; TrackPoint and completely ignore the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 3.53 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 14.0 inch 16:9 (but IPS display is available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 12GB DDR3L 1600 MHz (1 DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (x) = Intel Core i7-5600U (dual-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 240GB/256GB Solid State Drive, SATA 3 Opal 2.0 - Capable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = Intel HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓) = (available on some models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T450s-Ultrabook-Review.137248.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9G7TR5kJUg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/426/54&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjRJde3Im1I&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=1246&amp;gid2=980&amp;compare=geforce-gt-750m-vs-quadro-k4000m&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0Xb63I_ZaM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="8b3ca124-b25c-4ca4-84dc-833b5b56fd40" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:45:36.130" UserId="476" Text="Support for 1080p?&lt;BR&gt;(*A few lines later*)&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Under $800?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OMG.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications &quot;hi&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;:P" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="08c8f90e-12c6-414f-88d8-86a9d24edf79" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:49:15.227" UserId="57" Comment="Removed unneed paragraphs" Text="The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2124" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="46319455-d9ec-4ab3-ab86-39524f3fac97" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:51:48.213" UserId="476" Comment="added 359 characters in body" Text="Support for 1080p?&lt;BR&gt;(*A few lines later*)&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Under $800?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OMG.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications &quot;hi&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;:P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can play modern games on at least medium settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LOLOLOLOLOL at 1080p the GTX 980 Ti will absolutely dominate almost every game ***ULTRA*** above 60fps. With AA. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cheaper alternative might be the R9 390&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4K support&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- 6 displays max&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB GDDR5 512 bit&#xD;&#xA;- 2560 stream processing units&#xD;&#xA;- 40 compute units&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2125" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="453" RevisionGUID="9c90be84-39a5-46ae-8287-874ce623bf00" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:04:33.103" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2126" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="06b245e4-e7af-4189-b584-0ac7863cec84" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:11:40.860" UserId="60" Comment="  Got rid of unneeded pieces again." Text="The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications &quot;hi&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cheaper alternative might be the R9 390&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4K support&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- 6 displays max&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB GDDR5 512 bit&#xD;&#xA;- 2560 stream processing units&#xD;&#xA;- 40 compute units" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2127" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="06b245e4-e7af-4189-b584-0ac7863cec84" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:11:40.860" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by -1 edit id of 169" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2128" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="568bcbcb-3e88-4be1-98cc-ad3160f53961" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:11:40.860" UserId="476" Comment="  Got rid of unneeded pieces again. &lt;-- (added a few unneeded pieces to his edit)" Text="The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications &quot;hi&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't worry, a GTX 980 Ti will dominate modern games on Ultra, above 60fps, maybe with AA as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cheaper alternative might be the R9 390&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4K support&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- 6 displays max&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB GDDR5 512 bit&#xD;&#xA;- 2560 stream processing units&#xD;&#xA;- 40 compute units" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2129" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="588" RevisionGUID="a602194d-5d56-4be8-8f42-b6e69eef0157" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:42:50.223" UserId="476" Text="**Razer Blade 14:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight (✓) = 4.5lb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display (✓) = 14 inch 1080p IPS (cheap) 1800p IGZO Touch (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory (✓) = 8GB (cheap) 16GB (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4720HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS (✓) = Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage (✓) = 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU (❌) = GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell XPS 13:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display - X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything else is good :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd?p=xps-13-9350-laptop&amp;view=pdetails&amp;isredir=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2131" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="da83e68f-68bb-45ec-bf88-e61944c8ddd7" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:28:40.877" UserId="164" Comment="Rollback to [3f7dfa6e-b5cc-4336-8fc0-2a588096d396]" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32gb of flash storage and though it costs 150$, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1gb of ram, and 8gb of on board storage. Yhe other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2gb of ram, and 32gb of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2132" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="6889549b-0993-4441-ac6c-5a28ae0e212a" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:29:22.687" UserId="164" Comment="Rollback to [9fac3973-e90b-4b6a-89c3-f008055f1571]" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32GB of flash storage and though it costs $150, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1GB of ram, and 8GB of on board storage. The other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2GB of ram, and 32GB of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="521" RevisionGUID="17c7fff2-aba4-4f69-b8d3-f1e7c7b77965" CreationDate="2015-10-09T05:58:39.817" UserId="199" Comment="some clarification" Text="I'm looking for an MP3 player mainly for listening to podcast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MicroUSB cable (for data transfer)&#xD;&#xA;- 512 MB internal memory or more&#xD;&#xA;- Buttons for seeking backward/forward 2-5 seconds (in case of missed words)&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to handle in a pocket (without looking at it)&#xD;&#xA;- Delete files from memory function&#xD;&#xA;- Linux support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Standard/replaceable batteries (AA/AAA)&#xD;&#xA;- Can be used during charging (if battery is not AA/AAA)&#xD;&#xA;- Bookmarking, advanced bookmarking function (mark files as listened, etc.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="592" RevisionGUID="c9677e08-e190-478a-8bac-814151afc131" CreationDate="2015-10-09T10:28:08.653" UserId="122" Text="I have not pulled the trigger on this purchase, (because of the relatively high price), so this is not a hands-on recommendation.  When I went looking for an e-reader for reviewing and consuming technical information, I was most tempted by the [Icarus Excel][1].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a 9.7&quot; reader and allows for handwritten notes too.  Since I was evaluating for technical learning, this was a big plus.  The Icarus site is not great, but there is a good review, with video, [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think the market for these larger format readers is particularly mature, and [color e-ink][3] may yet disrupt the entire market (small format included).  If the larger format is a must have, and money is not an issue, then the Excel looks like a good option right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.icarusreader.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://goodereader.com/blog/reviews/review-of-the-icarus-excel-9-7-inch-e-reader&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.eink.com/display_products_triton.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="593" RevisionGUID="0855d9db-d812-47eb-9c9d-7d961b2ed1ce" CreationDate="2015-10-09T11:01:10.027" UserId="521" Text="The laptop I've been given for work seems like it would fit the bill quite nicely. It's a HP EliteBook 850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight (✓) = 4.15lb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display (✓) = 15 inch 1080p IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory (✓) = 16GB @ 1600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU (❌) = Intel Core i5-4210U (dual core, 4 threads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS (✓) = Windows 8 (Free upgrade to Windows 10)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage (✓) = 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU (✓) = Intel HD 4400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one comes with separated touchpad keys as well (it even has a little nubbin in the keyboard and separate keys for that, too), and - this is the main feature for me - it has a dock which you can leave connected to a monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc and just plug in to. Honestly, this makes my work life so much easier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using mine for programming, writing websites and doing general design stuff and it feels really easy to work on - especially with this dock hooking it up to a larger monitor most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, one thing you didn't mention is battery life, but I'd just like to say that this thing will last forever. It'll easily go 6 hours without a charge even with fairly heavy usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure about the price of this specific model, seeing as it was supplied to me by my workplace, but I've seen results in the $950 to $1,200 range. The dock is sold separately as well and I think they're roughly $160 to $210, depending on where you get them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="588" RevisionGUID="057386d0-31da-4e0b-bd7c-a9ed8d92cea7" CreationDate="2015-10-09T11:43:55.570" UserId="476" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="**Razer Blade 14:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight (✓) = 4.5lb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display (✓) = 14 inch 1080p IPS (cheap) 1800p IGZO Touch (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory (✓) = 8GB (cheap) 16GB (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4720HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS (✓) = Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage (✓) = 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU (❌) = GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 13](http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd?p=xps-13-9350-laptop&amp;view=pdetails&amp;isredir=true):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display - X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything else is good :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 15 9550](http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?dgc=BA&amp;cid=289667&amp;lid=5555850&amp;acd=12309214878278673&amp;ven3=873502984891692123)** (call for pricing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight (✓) = 4.5lb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display (✓) = 15 inch UHD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory (✓) = 8GB (cheap) 16GB &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU (?) = Unknown 6th generation i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS (✓) = Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU (✓) = GTX 960M (optional)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery = OMG 17 hours????" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="595" RevisionGUID="96f453df-b31d-48ef-ad41-0712f0886ee5" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:20:44.447" UserId="57" Text="I run multiple machines to perform various tasks related to both work and personal hobbies. These machines run a combination of Linux and Windows and a variety of services ranging from Microsoft SQL server, Maria/MySql, build bots, web servers, DNS services, firewalls, and NAS etc. I'd like to combine many (or all) of these machines into a virtual environment. The idea is to get one beefy machine where I can virtualize most of my hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not decided on a piece of virtualization software, but I'm familiar with [VMWare][1], [Xen][2] and [KVM][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of server do you recommend that can perform the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Host 12 virtual machines constantly and burst to 24 for hours at a time&#xD;&#xA; - Host a combination of Windows (Vista through 10) and Linux (multiple distributions) all running at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - Have multiple network interfaces so that all the virtual machines don't share a single line. I'm thinking 4 would be appropriate, but I think I could live with only 2&#xD;&#xA; - Have storage space for 12 full virtual machines, plus templates for 8-10 other systems.&#xD;&#xA; - Contains server grade - not consumer grade - hardware&#xD;&#xA; - Estimated budget is under $8,000.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.vmware.com/&#xD;&#xA; [2]: http://www.xenproject.org/&#xD;&#xA; [3]: http://www.linux-kvm.org/page/Main_Page&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="595" RevisionGUID="96f453df-b31d-48ef-ad41-0712f0886ee5" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:20:44.447" UserId="57" Text="Server for running multiple virtual machines?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="595" RevisionGUID="96f453df-b31d-48ef-ad41-0712f0886ee5" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:20:44.447" UserId="57" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2152" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="596" RevisionGUID="15bad8c9-bde9-428b-8ed3-08cf1fd2096a" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:45:14.707" UserId="1" Text="I want a headset. I have similar requirements to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/291/1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a Bluetooth headset, but it should connect to my computer via USB or a 3.5mm jack.&#xD;&#xA; - It should be able to last several hours on a single charge&#xD;&#xA; - Should be mildly comfortable, but I can get used to anything&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about hooking it up to a landline, etc. I just need to get audio to and from my Macbook&#xD;&#xA; - Should have a decent microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Should last a relatively long time (&gt;3 years), ideally with a warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of ~$200. What should I use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2153" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="596" RevisionGUID="15bad8c9-bde9-428b-8ed3-08cf1fd2096a" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:45:14.707" UserId="1" Text="Bluetooth headset with USB/3.5mm connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2154" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="596" RevisionGUID="15bad8c9-bde9-428b-8ed3-08cf1fd2096a" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:45:14.707" UserId="1" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2155" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="596" RevisionGUID="87f01b36-f366-4f8e-bd57-719528b1c4ec" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:49:32.253" UserId="1" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="I want a headset. I have similar requirements to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/291/1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a Bluetooth headset (so no cords hanging off my head) but it should connect to my computer via USB or a 3.5mm jack. My current setup does this with a base that is used for charging the headset and connecting to the computer.&#xD;&#xA; - It should be able to last several hours on a single charge&#xD;&#xA; - Should be mildly comfortable, but I can get used to anything&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about hooking it up to a landline, etc. I just need to get audio to and from my Macbook&#xD;&#xA; - Should have a decent microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Should last a relatively long time (&gt;3 years), ideally with a warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of ~$200. What should I use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="597" RevisionGUID="405f984a-b53c-4270-a27a-a8f62cf1113f" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:34:30.003" UserId="77" Text="I've looked at u-blox, telit, Simcom and Quectel.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best receiver from cold start I've found so far is from Telit at -148dBm for acquisition (cold start).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;e.g. [telit jupiter se868][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone come across a GPS module with a better cold start sensitivity?&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.telit.com/products/product-service-selector/product-service-selector/show/product/jupiter-se868-v3/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="597" RevisionGUID="405f984a-b53c-4270-a27a-a8f62cf1113f" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:34:30.003" UserId="77" Text="Most sensitive GPS receiver module during cold start" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="597" RevisionGUID="405f984a-b53c-4270-a27a-a8f62cf1113f" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:34:30.003" UserId="77" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="5d4fb6de-e456-48b5-a660-36028c44bc06" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:28:33.693" UserId="525" Text="I've got a [Logitech ClearChat](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-ClearChat-Wireless-USB-Headset/dp/B0015EY5RE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1444417859&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=logitech+clearchat) headset, and I love it, but I need something with better transmission strength. I've looked around for similar devices though and it seems as though the ClearChat is singular in its class. I'm having a very hard time doing detailed search though, as sales sites like Amazon &amp; NewEgg don't have great search criteria for headsets.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I also found the [H20e](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-headset-dual-h820e-business), but sadly it's a &quot;business-class&quot; device and the response is a mushy 150Hz-7KHz. Useful only for person-to-person phone calls; unusable for music, games, or even group meetings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the things that I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB, not Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* 20Hz-20KHz response (H20e can't do this)&#xD;&#xA;* On-ear mute switch&#xD;&#xA;* On-mic mute indicator LED&#xD;&#xA;* Range greater than 10m (ClearChat can't do this)  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Are there any headsets out there that satisfy these criteria?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2163" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="5d4fb6de-e456-48b5-a660-36028c44bc06" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:28:33.693" UserId="525" Text="Wireless headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2164" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="5d4fb6de-e456-48b5-a660-36028c44bc06" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:28:33.693" UserId="525" Text="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="192" RevisionGUID="ba28801a-baff-4086-ac02-ccd0a1542727" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:36:12.100" UserId="155" Comment="clarification; less wordy" Text="For questions related to cryptographic chip-based cards used to carry out security-critical operations (typically on a computer)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2166" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="192" RevisionGUID="ba28801a-baff-4086-ac02-ccd0a1542727" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:36:12.100" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="599" RevisionGUID="91fe8aa0-888b-4125-93a0-c9d7949d09b6" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:40:36.557" UserId="60" Text="I have a [Logitech G9x](http://support.logitech.com/product/g9x-laser-mouse) mouse that is about to die. It has served me well, but it is time to start looking for a replacement. Unfortunately, Logitech doesn't make the G9x anymore. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The replacement mouse should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- be a Logitech gaming mouse (and support Logitech's Gaming Software)&#xD;&#xA;- have customize DPI settings&#xD;&#xA;- have two or more macro buttons&#xD;&#xA;- cost less than $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="599" RevisionGUID="91fe8aa0-888b-4125-93a0-c9d7949d09b6" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:40:36.557" UserId="60" Text="Replacement for the Logitech G9x Mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="599" RevisionGUID="91fe8aa0-888b-4125-93a0-c9d7949d09b6" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:40:36.557" UserId="60" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="600" RevisionGUID="6926a792-22af-42a2-9889-bb5ec766d73b" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:40:36.557" UserId="60" Text="I decided on the [Logitech G600 Gaming Mouse](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g600-mmo-gaming-mouse) (~$80 USD) as the replacement. This mouse supports Logitech's Gaming Software. I plugged it into my computer and it recognized the mouse without having to install any drivers, and I still had all my profiles from my old mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can have 5 DPI settings per mode and there are 3 modes per profile. The DPI range is 200-8200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse has 20 buttons with 18 of them being customizable (you can change all 20, but you have to have a button for left click and another for right click). There is also a function called &quot;G-Shift&quot;, which is like a second page of macros for the profile. This means that you can have 34 macros on this mouse per mode (you must have buttons dedicated for left and right click, plus one button has to have the G-Shift function assigned to it)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="42c99229-bf46-4d1a-9cc0-06c4e991896d" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:42:55.477" UserId="128" Comment="Remove reply attemopts" Text="A lot of points listed below are coming from personal experience due to me having a very similar laptop to the one I recommmended. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Lenovo-Notebook-i5-4210U-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B00Q2R29J0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1444129975&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lenovo+z50+nvidia&quot;&gt;Lenvo z50-70&lt;/a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- First of all I think it is very important to have dedicated graphics card for heavy graphics load like video editing and gaming. In this use case the graphics card is the most important part of the laptop. Also Nvidia has very good technology called prime. The model I recommended has this technology, it uses your integrated intel graphics when not needing graphics performance like when browsing the web. If you need your graphics power like when editing video, the nvidia driver automatically kicks in with your powerfull nVidia card to get the performance needed. With this it is possible to save a lot of power (battery life). I personally love this feature and it works without problems on my lenovo with windows 8.1 and various Linux distros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- next up the display is better than on the i7 model but has the same resolution than the g50. Personally I like the full HD screen, it is very sharp and colors are good as well. A good display is also extremely important in this use case especially video editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The 256GB SSD makes your whole OS faster and is these days a must. It makes your programs faster and also your editing workflow more fluent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The processor is very decent and good enough for this use case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the nVidia GPU is slightly better than the amd one (http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-M260DX-vs-GeForce-840M) and I think prime technology just ist a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Depending on which OS you want to install nVidia and Intel is the way to go. I personally am not a fan of AMD Hardware because I'm a Linux user, I won't go into detail with this just know AMD can be a giant pain when using Linux. If using Linux, the nVidia drivers work perfectly with ubuntu/debian based distros and are very easy to install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only minus is the 4 GB of ram that normally should be enough, if not you can easily upgrade to 8GB for about 30€ (http://www.amazon.de/DDR3L-1600-SO-DIMM-1600Mhz-PC3L-12800S-Voltage/dp/B00IIRSIK6/ref=pd_sim_147_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1E7S7EWFK87F1EMHJJ1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can spend a bit more go with the z50-70 I linked above to get better performance, if not your next best call propably is the AMD model z50. I would not recommend the i7 model g50 because it does not suit your needs at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I could help,  Tanonic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2182" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="42c99229-bf46-4d1a-9cc0-06c4e991896d" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:42:55.477" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2183" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="274" RevisionGUID="ddefad94-1cc7-4b84-88c3-d71e01270f78" CreationDate="2015-10-10T04:03:36.453" UserId="155" Comment="corrected tag specificity" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2186" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="208" RevisionGUID="1da12a79-fdd8-4a4f-b0a5-29af8a6f064a" CreationDate="2015-10-10T06:20:55.457" UserId="155" Comment="nice links; punctuation" Text="The upcoming Moto X Force is the phone that sound like the perfect fit(its not revealed or released yet!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Watch out! These are just leaks and rumors so nothing final yet!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High-end specs (5.42&quot; QHD, Snapdragon 810 with 3GB RAM, fast charging etc.)&#xD;&#xA; -  IP68 certified &amp;ndash; dust and water-resistant up to 1.5 meters and 30 minutes&#xD;&#xA; - MIL-STD-810G certified &amp;ndash; salt, dust, humidity, rain, vibration, solar radiation, transport and thermal shock resistant&#xD;&#xA; - Corning Gorilla Glass 4&#xD;&#xA; - 21MP rear camera with phase detection autofocus and 4k@30fps video recording&#xD;&#xA; - 3760 mAh battery&#xD;&#xA; - Rumored release outside of the US in December and most likely sold in the US as the DROID Turbo 2 and exclusive for Verizon&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some references:  &#xD;&#xA;[Moto X info on gsmarena.com](http://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_x_force-7555.php)  &#xD;&#xA;[Moto X specs on androidpit.com](https://www.androidpit.com/motorola-moto-x-force-price-release-date-specs-features)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can wait and you're willing to spend around &amp;euro;560 that phone will be great for you! &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="556" RevisionGUID="3d98965b-283c-4ecf-817a-b06724e40074" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:52:16.100" UserId="54" Comment="added 1719 characters in body" Text="[iClever][1] keyboard seems to fit your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number row is included. To use with Android you just have to choose &lt;kbd&gt;Fn&lt;/kbd&gt; + &lt;kbd&gt;Q&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is lightweight (0.39lbs =~ 176.9 grams) and tri-folding which makes it perfect for travel (size: 145mm x 95mm x 15mm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To sum up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - compact size&#xD;&#xA; - keyboard spacing is not cramped&#xD;&#xA; - aluminum body&#xD;&#xA; - rubber feet on the bottom (for anti-skid)&#xD;&#xA; - bluetooth range: 10 meters&#xD;&#xA; - iOS, Windows and Android compatibility&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - size &amp; placement of the backspace button (mentioned in the second review linked below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the review [here][2] and [here][3]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I have a few bluetooth keyboards and the iClever Tri-folding Magnetic&#xD;&#xA;&gt; keyboard is the best for travel. It is the smallest and most compact&#xD;&#xA;&gt; keyboard I've seen while maintaining a standard keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;&gt; (roughly an 11&quot; laptop). The backspace key is too small for my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; preference so that will take some getting used to. Other than that,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this keyboard is everything I want when I travel. The keyboard spacing&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is not too cramped. It is only an inch less in length compared to my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 13&quot; laptop (my main laptop). The keyboard unfolds easily and only when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you want it to. Due to the magnets and hinge design, it won't happen&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on accident. It tucks into itself so it is very easy to pack for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; travel. The keys themselve have good feedback. There are many shortcut&#xD;&#xA;&gt; keys that are activated with the typical Fn key (which is full size&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and appropriately placed, thank goodness). There are no external&#xD;&#xA;&gt; switches or keys to turn the keyboard on/off or enable sync (which is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a great thing. You hit the Fn key and letter C for BT sync shortcut).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As soon as you unfold the keyboard, it will turn on and connect to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; paired device. My devices found the keyboard immediately and connected&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reliable throughout my testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWLJNPQ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS37D4YR4JY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R1CUB673YFPK9P/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00YWLJNPQ&amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;nodeID=541966&amp;store=pc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="603" RevisionGUID="38c2a097-7082-4ceb-8002-5bdbad68d9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:59:25.967" UserId="518" Text="When I compare prices of HDD, I embed a virtual &quot;warranty price&quot; for the costs I'd find if I needed a return (assuming the producer provides more than 2-year EU commercial warranty). Which producer has the lowest ones (for an EU customer)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The return/RMA policies aren't always clear or easy to find. For instance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/warranty.html + http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportServiceWarrantySSDODDExchange.do&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.kingston.com/it/company/warranty#procedures&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/company-warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung is the only one whose policy doesn't explicitly say the costs for shipping to the service centre are on the customer. Does «pack the drive [...] include the completed XRA form, and ship insurance and freight pre-paid to the SAMSUNG address on the XRA form» mean that the XRA (Exchange Return Authorization) comes with a pre-paid shipping label, or what? They also have a clause stating that if no issue is found on the drive then the customer has to reimburse Samsung the shipping expenses, but it's not clear *which* shipping expenses they're talking of." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2191" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="603" RevisionGUID="38c2a097-7082-4ceb-8002-5bdbad68d9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:59:25.967" UserId="518" Text="What's the SSD producer with cheapest warranty/return policy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2192" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="603" RevisionGUID="38c2a097-7082-4ceb-8002-5bdbad68d9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:59:25.967" UserId="518" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="604" RevisionGUID="2467e46b-351e-4ff5-9f44-6d7783cca3a7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:15:46.540" UserId="518" Text="What (current) 2.5&quot; SSD drives proved to consume the least power in real-life measuring?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For &quot;real life&quot; I mean measuring the power they actually draw from the PSU, or the power the PSU draws from the grid compared to the very same machine with another drive. Measuring during stress and idle testing is fine, though an average of several hours real usage would also be interesting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in values declared on paper, nor comparisons between different hard drive formats. If you want to focus on a specific size, let's say 250 GB which seems to be the most commonly bought one right now in Amazon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2194" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="604" RevisionGUID="2467e46b-351e-4ff5-9f44-6d7783cca3a7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:15:46.540" UserId="518" Text="Which SSD producer/line has lowest power usage?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2195" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="604" RevisionGUID="2467e46b-351e-4ff5-9f44-6d7783cca3a7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:15:46.540" UserId="518" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="d6eb6989-93ec-4af9-aa91-6c4668c12d0f" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:27:36.243" UserId="518" Text="SSD might fail rarely, but when they fail they do so grandly. Data recovery services typically charge thousands Euro even for the smallest drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course the cheapest data recovery technology is backing up in advance, and there are many services out there, but I'm not interested in &quot;what ifs&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes a formerly working SSD isn't recognised at all by the motherboard, or seems not to be powered any longer, or has some other failure which prevents any interaction with it. In such cases, it's sometimes enough to replace a chip/controller inside, or something even simpler (which of course shouldn't be done at home).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any SSD technology, producer or line which stands out as having a feature which probably or provably makes (service with) data recovery cheaper? Or vice versa one which is clearly worst of class, neighbourhing [planned obsolescence](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence)? (The former would be for instance a drive which is absolutely impossible to open without destroying it.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2197" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="d6eb6989-93ec-4af9-aa91-6c4668c12d0f" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:27:36.243" UserId="518" Text="What SSD technology has cheapest data recovery service?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2198" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="d6eb6989-93ec-4af9-aa91-6c4668c12d0f" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:27:36.243" UserId="518" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2199" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="cd375202-b029-4472-9375-17f2673bb671" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:43:02.260" UserId="518" Comment="Fix typo, other minor changes" Text="What would you recommend to choose? I was thinking about Samsung 850 Pro and Crucial MX200 but every suggestion would be appreciated. 250 GB seems to be fine for me (I have one another 1 TB HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - sequential read &gt; 300 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - sequential write &gt; 150 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rarely do video edit. It is mainly about reducing the compile cycle time and work smoothly on multiple files simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2200" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="cd375202-b029-4472-9375-17f2673bb671" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:43:02.260" Comment="Proposed by 518 approved by -1 edit id of 172" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2201" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="b8d59be9-829b-450b-b306-403b228092bc" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:43:02.260" UserId="155" Comment="Fix typo, other minor changes" Text="What would you recommend to choose? I was thinking about Samsung 850 Pro and Crucial MX200 but every suggestion would be appreciated. 250GB seems to be fine for me (I have one another 1TB HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - sequential read &gt; 300 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - sequential write &gt; 150 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - low access times &#xD;&#xA; - improve compile time&#xD;&#xA; - improve IDE &amp; Git performance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rarely do video edit. It is mainly about reducing the compile cycle time and work smoothly on multiple files simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="603" RevisionGUID="e003b509-179b-4f22-a969-b68661394f7f" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:50:42.613" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; formatting" Text="When I compare prices of HDDs, I embed a virtual &quot;warranty price&quot; for the costs I'd find if I needed a return (assuming the producer provides more than 2-year EU commercial warranty). Which producer has the lowest ones (for an EU customer)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The return/RMA policies aren't always clear or easy to find. For instance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/warranty.html + http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportServiceWarrantySSDODDExchange.do&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.kingston.com/it/company/warranty#procedures&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/company-warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung is the only one whose policy doesn't explicitly say the costs for shipping to the service centre are on the customer. Does &quot;pack the drive [...] include the completed XRA form, and ship insurance and freight pre-paid to the SAMSUNG address on the XRA form&quot; mean that the XRA (Exchange Return Authorization) comes with a prepaid shipping label, or what? They also have a clause stating that if no issue is found on the drive then the customer has to reimburse Samsung the shipping expenses, but it's not clear *which* shipping expenses they're talking of." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2203" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="603" RevisionGUID="e003b509-179b-4f22-a969-b68661394f7f" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:50:42.613" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; formatting" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;warranty&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2204" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="604" RevisionGUID="9dd66c21-4889-4841-90f7-e65c30c5dea7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:53:57.353" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="3f7921b6-5ae8-47ce-8797-8c0dcbfc587b" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:25:52.507" UserId="8" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="SSDs might fail rarely, but when they fail they do so grandly. Data recovery services typically charge thousands of euros even for the smallest drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course the cheapest data recovery technology is backing up in advance, and there are many services out there, but I'm not interested in &quot;what ifs&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes a formerly working SSD isn't recognised at all by the motherboard, or seems not to be powered any longer, or has some other failure which prevents any interaction with it. In such cases, it's sometimes enough to replace a chip/controller inside, or something even simpler (which of course shouldn't be done at home).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any SSD technology, producer or line stand out as having a feature which probably or provably makes data recovery cheaper? Or vice versa one which is clearly the worst of class, neighbourhing [planned obsolescence](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence)? (The former would be for instance a drive which is absolutely impossible to open without destroying it.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2210" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="607" RevisionGUID="915c546e-3b8a-40b0-b698-1eed1afd8d1b" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:28:47.033" UserId="518" Text="The other answers are technically correct, but are IMHO unlikely to help. The benchmark *you* care the most about is *your* real-life usage of the processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Watch yourself using the processor and watch how the processor is doing in critical times, for instance by [using htop](https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/57691) or whatever works for you. Find the critical components, compare measures for those. For instance, it's pointless to compare benchmarks before knowing how many cores you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for example I can open `top` or `htop` in a meaningful moment of the day (e.g. when the computer feels slow), rule out any memory or I/O issue; watch the CPU usage and find out Skype is consuming 70 % of one core, a `chromium-browser` thread is consuming 100 % of one core and another program I'm using is also taking all the CPU it can. Based on this, I know that for my web browsing I'd benefit from a faster core and for my multi-tasking I'd need at least 3 cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have access to the newer machine you want to compare (as in your case), go compare the CPU usage and required time for a specific task which proved stressing, such as opening a particularly heavy web page or searching a mass of emails in your email client or whatever (optionally using `/usr/bin/time -v` in your time for a specific command in the terminal, works also in OSX and many *NIX OS)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2211" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="0abbafa8-d348-459c-a29f-628ecdffc892" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:39:23.610" UserId="155" Comment="changed out relevant tag" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="608" RevisionGUID="e45d108f-7758-494c-bd72-969f83cbba4a" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:45:40.390" UserId="518" Text="I noticed that almost all power supply units (PSU) nowadays come with an **80plus** label. This means that over 80 % of the electricity I pay for in my bills will actually reach my hardware instead of being wasted in heat, and that my hard work saving on the decimals of Watt there will make sense. Great, but now how do I choose if I want a PSU for a computer which is not too power hungry?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specific technical question: what's the most efficient PSU in a non-custom form factor, at a consumption of 100 W or 200 W, for an EU 230 V or 115 V home?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hypothetical concrete question with probably too much detail (skipo if you understood above): what's the most efficient PSU I can use for my new mini PC/slim PC/HTPC/whatever, [AMD APU](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_accelerated_processing_unit_microprocessors) based, either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* chipset A88X, processor A8 or A10 family (Kaveri), socket FM2+, motherboard mini-ITX or micro-ATX (mATX);&#xD;&#xA;* or socket AM1, Athlon 5350 (Kabini), motherboard mini-ITX;&#xD;&#xA;* or socket FT3b (Beema, Mullins), anything;&#xD;&#xA;* or socket FP4 mini-ITX motherboard for Carrizo or Carrizo-L, anything available (nothing for sale right now or in foreseeable future AFAIK)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2213" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="608" RevisionGUID="e45d108f-7758-494c-bd72-969f83cbba4a" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:45:40.390" UserId="518" Text="What's the most efficient PSU for a mid-low power computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2214" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="608" RevisionGUID="e45d108f-7758-494c-bd72-969f83cbba4a" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:45:40.390" UserId="518" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="609" RevisionGUID="3318ccbb-e446-45a6-904e-9e1570c5d6fc" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:55:53.037" UserId="518" Text="For a quick search I went to the good old [80plus.org](http://80plus.org). It turns out that there is no titanium certified yet and the platinum certified PSU are much bigger than needed (2000 W even), so I can only look at gold ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now it seems the best at 100 W consumption are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Chengdu G500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CHENGDU%20YU%20QING%20XUAN%20ZHILIAN%20TECHNOLOGY%20CO.LTD_G500_500W_EU-032_Report.pdf): 91.48 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.89 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell L240EPM-00](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DELL%20INC._L240EPM-00_240W_EU-098_Report.pdf): 92 % ([SFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor), max 240 W, average 92.45 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [HKC T-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HKC%20OVERSEAS%20LIMITED_T-500_500W_EU-078_Report.pdf): 90.77 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.67 %).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo also had some great results but these were with custom format factors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="608" RevisionGUID="f96d3669-1589-4e6f-9024-c7ed1704b0f0" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:56:52.697" UserId="518" Comment="typo" Text="I noticed that almost all power supply units (PSU) nowadays come with an **80plus** label. This means that over 80 % of the electricity I pay for in my bills will actually reach my hardware instead of being wasted in heat, and that my hard work saving on the decimals of Watt there will make sense. Great, but now how do I choose if I want a PSU for a computer which is not too power hungry?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specific technical question: what's the most efficient PSU in a non-custom form factor, at a consumption of 100 W or 200 W, for an EU 230 V or 115 V home?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hypothetical concrete question with probably too much detail (skip if you understood above): what's the most efficient PSU I can use for my new mini PC/slim PC/HTPC/whatever, [AMD APU](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_accelerated_processing_unit_microprocessors) based, either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* chipset A88X, processor A8 or A10 family (Kaveri), socket FM2+, motherboard mini-ITX or micro-ATX (mATX);&#xD;&#xA;* or socket AM1, Athlon 5350 (Kabini), motherboard mini-ITX;&#xD;&#xA;* or socket FT3b (Beema, Mullins), anything;&#xD;&#xA;* or socket FP4 mini-ITX motherboard for Carrizo or Carrizo-L, anything available (nothing for sale right now or in foreseeable future AFAIK)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2218" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="608" RevisionGUID="567c4b5d-6059-427c-88fd-48edfcd24443" CreationDate="2015-10-10T10:25:46.083" UserId="155" Comment="changed out relevant tag" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2219" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="2f228552-bf15-4be8-84bb-2dfa4d025720" CreationDate="2015-10-10T11:59:17.150" UserId="476" Comment="added 330 characters in body" Text="Probably the i7 6700k. It is very similar to the 4790K as recommended in all of these answers, however has a slight IPC improvement compared to the 4790k and is 14nm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can compare these two here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[4790K](http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[6700K](http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 6700K is also based on Z170, not Z97, which seems to be practically a dead chipset." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2227" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="597" RevisionGUID="8d104aa8-7298-46c7-a8f1-25eedb075938" CreationDate="2015-10-10T17:39:10.367" UserId="77" Comment="added 397 characters in body" Text="I've looked at u-blox, telit, Simcom and Quectel.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best receiver from cold start I've found so far is from Telit at -148dBm for acquisition (cold start).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;e.g. [telit jupiter se868][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone come across a GPS module with a better cold start sensitivity?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cold Start is performed every time when the GPS module is turned off&#xD;&#xA;&gt; without backup power supply connected. It is the longest starting time&#xD;&#xA;&gt; out of the three and usually takes 35 seconds in average under open&#xD;&#xA;&gt; sky environment. During Cold Start, almanac and ephemeris data has to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; be downloaded first from the GPS satellites to GPS module before a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; position fix can be acquired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.telit.com/products/product-service-selector/product-service-selector/show/product/jupiter-se868-v3/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2228" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="68" RevisionGUID="de67666f-915d-484e-bdb5-d737d19b66c7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T19:08:59.283" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="610" RevisionGUID="d0fc8139-cf60-4f98-b74c-41a408cdade7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:19:41.273" UserId="54" Text="I've been using HP LaserJet 1200 for a very long time but now the original drivers are not available and I wanted to find something more suitable for Windows 7/8 &amp; 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3Y2HLm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectations are partially similar to the original printer specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - available drivers for Windows 7/8 &amp; 10&#xD;&#xA; - widely available and cheap toners&#xD;&#xA; - monthly page volume: 1500-2000&#xD;&#xA; - print speed: 10+ ppm&#xD;&#xA; - only black print&#xD;&#xA; - at least 600 dpi&#xD;&#xA; - graphics quality printing and network features are not important&#xD;&#xA; - duplex printing is not &quot;must have&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper than $150 (second-hand items are acceptable)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="610" RevisionGUID="d0fc8139-cf60-4f98-b74c-41a408cdade7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:19:41.273" UserId="54" Text="Cheap laser printer with widely available toners" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="610" RevisionGUID="d0fc8139-cf60-4f98-b74c-41a408cdade7" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:19:41.273" UserId="54" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="611" RevisionGUID="968ba191-3b43-44d2-870a-a938d722a3cc" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:30:08.313" UserId="273" Text="[I've &quot;recentely&quot; asked this question][1] here for a docking station for laptops that uses Thunderbolt 3 or USB 3.1 for connections. While I'm still interested in such stations I need an alternative in case no such alternative will be available within a reasonable time-frame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm hereby asking for a docking station that qualifies with the following points (in order of preference):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It connects via USB 3.0 and doesn't require special additional software for Windows (10) besides maybe a driver&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 USB 3.0 ports (additionally to the connecting port)&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 other USB (2.0+) ports (so 8 ports in total)&#xD;&#xA; - It has a gigabit ethernet network port &#xD;&#xA; - It has a HDMI (1.4+) port for monitor output&#xD;&#xA; - It has yet another 2 USB (2.0+) ports (so 10 in total)&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be less than 200€ (in Germany)&#xD;&#xA; - Fully optional: Smartcard Reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you ask yourself: &quot;For what do you *need* 8 (or more) USB ports for a laptop!?&quot; Here's the list: External USB 3.0 SSD, External 2.5&quot; USB 3.0 HDD, External 3.5&quot; USB 3.0 Backup HDD, High-Speed USB 3.0 USB-Stick, external USB 2.0 sound card, external mechanical USB keyboard, external USB mouse, external blu-ray burner (2x USB 2.0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/188/273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2234" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="611" RevisionGUID="968ba191-3b43-44d2-870a-a938d722a3cc" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:30:08.313" UserId="273" Text="Docking station with many ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2235" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="611" RevisionGUID="968ba191-3b43-44d2-870a-a938d722a3cc" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:30:08.313" UserId="273" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="611" RevisionGUID="75ed501e-0c60-46c6-80c4-7e84f0c41981" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:22:36.510" UserId="273" Comment="added amazon.de as reference for price and availability, added note that some features don't give bonus points" Text="[I've &quot;recentely&quot; asked this question][1] here for a docking station for laptops that uses Thunderbolt 3 or USB 3.1 for connections. While I'm still interested in such stations I need an alternative in case no such alternative will be available within a reasonable time-frame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm hereby asking for a docking station that qualifies with the following points (in order of preference):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It connects via USB 3.0 and doesn't require special additional software for Windows (10) besides maybe a driver&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 USB 3.0 ports (additionally to the connecting port)&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 other USB (2.0+) ports (so 8 ports in total)&#xD;&#xA; - It has a gigabit ethernet network port &#xD;&#xA; - It has a HDMI (1.4+) port for monitor output&#xD;&#xA; - It has yet another 2 USB (2.0+) ports (so 10 in total)&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be less than 200€ (in [Germany][2])&#xD;&#xA; - Fully optional: Smartcard Reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you ask yourself: &quot;For what do you *need* 8 (or more) USB ports for a laptop!?&quot; Here's the list: External USB 3.0 SSD, External 2.5&quot; USB 3.0 HDD, External 3.5&quot; USB 3.0 Backup HDD, High-Speed USB 3.0 USB-Stick, external USB 2.0 sound card, external mechanical USB keyboard, external USB mouse, external blu-ray burner (2x USB 2.0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note: all of these devices are already bought and may not be deconstructed, so a dock with HDD bay or optical drive (bay) doesn't give &quot;bonus points&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/188/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.de/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="612" RevisionGUID="a1f884ad-96a6-4b09-a2f8-a4a5f66776ba" CreationDate="2015-10-10T22:11:17.177" UserId="54" Text="Note: Typical docking station has 2-4 USB ports, sometimes 5-6. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cable Matters® SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station with 6-Port USB Hub]&#xD;&#xA;[1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. (✓) Connection:one cable to the USB 3.0/2.0 port of your computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. (✓) it has 6 USB 3.0 ports (additionally to the connecting port)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. (X) it hasn't USB 2.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. (✓) Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. (✓) HDMI (resolutions: up to 2048x1152/1920x1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. (X) the same as 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. (✓) $89.99 and this item ships to Germany&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. (X) It hasn't Smartcard Reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [Woopower WPUL02][2] has 4 USB 3.0 + 2 USB 2.0 + 2 USB charger port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the red one has only the charge wires connected? Yes, probably. There's no clear statement in the description.&#xD;&#xA;What is more...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [wikipedia][3]:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB ports and connectors are often color-coded to distinguish their&#xD;&#xA;&gt; different functions and USB versions. These colors are not part of the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB specification and can vary between manufacturers; for example, USB 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;&gt; specification mandates appropriate color-coding&#xD;&#xA;&gt; while it only recommends blue inserts for standard-A USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&gt; connectors and plugs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-SuperSpeed-Universal-Ethernet/dp/B00H2WBXQO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Woopower%C2%AEWPUL02-Superspeed-Universal-Ethernet-Microphone/dp/B012D05QY4/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Colors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. (✓) Connection:one cable to the USB 3.0/2.0 port of your computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. (✓) it has 4 USB 3.0 ports (additionally to the connecting port)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. (X) it has just 2 USB 2.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. (✓) Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. (✓) HDMI (display resolution up to 2048 x 1152)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. (X) the same as 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. (✓) $105€ and this item ships to Germany&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. (X) It hasn't Smartcard Reader&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="613" RevisionGUID="be505e4a-2d30-4375-aaa3-807966fa59fd" CreationDate="2015-10-10T23:14:05.490" UserId="102" Text="##[HP LaserJet Pro P1102w](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/product-info)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.imgur.com/G3rDwS6m.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Drivers compatible with Windows 7, 8, &amp; 10 ([reference](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/document/c04658195))&#xD;&#xA; - First party and cheap 3rd party compatible toners ([example](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XOXPY8/))&#xD;&#xA; - Monthly duty cycle: up to 5000, but recommended volume is 250-1000&#xD;&#xA; - Print speed: up to 19ppm (letter) and 18ppm (A4)&#xD;&#xA; - Only black print&#xD;&#xA; - 600dpi&#xD;&#xA; - Available models with and without wifi (the `w` in the name stands for wifi support)&#xD;&#xA; - Only manual duplex (i.e. no duplex printing)&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper than 150USD. [It is currently listed on Amazon USA for 94.90USD](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036TGGVO/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link to full product details page](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/document/c01999607/)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="505fca96-39d0-4a58-a5d7-a60d951844df" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:59:24.093" UserId="532" Text="I'm looking to build a cheap but expandable server I can set up in my basement and use to store backups, stream media (Plex), and perform other miscellaneous services on my network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I haven't had much trouble choosing other parts for this build (hard drive, case, power supply), finding a good CPU has me feeling a bit overwhelmed. There are just too many factors that go into determining CPU speed for me to easily judge based on specs alone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's a good, budget CPU I can use for this purpose? It needs to be fast enough to do on-the-fly media transcoding for Plex, and I want it to be power efficient since I plan to be running this server 24/7, but aside from that cheaper is better. Integrated graphics would be a nice bonus since it would save me from having to purchase a video card separately, but it's not strictly necessary as I can get a cheap video card for ~$35 anyway (the server will usually be running headless, so I don't need anything fancy as far as graphics go)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2246" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="505fca96-39d0-4a58-a5d7-a60d951844df" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:59:24.093" UserId="532" Text="What's a good budget CPU for use in a home server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2247" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="505fca96-39d0-4a58-a5d7-a60d951844df" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:59:24.093" UserId="532" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="09549077-2c6e-4a6d-b63a-1d0d6ca34abd" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:18:01.043" UserId="533" Text=".Hello everyone. First of all, I hope I came to the right stackexchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations so I think here's the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is Samsung SENS X170, dual core 1.30GHz/3GB ram/integrated graphics(opengl 2.xx support). My requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit; I don't have windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung; not because it's the best, but all the other AS system is rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;3. 11~13 inch screen/durable/low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old SNES X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo2 or DOOM with user mod... I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005~2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programmings(R/latex/python) and willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so.&#xD;&#xA;Actually, if installing linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using linux this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on linux, I can stil use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="09549077-2c6e-4a6d-b63a-1d0d6ca34abd" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:18:01.043" UserId="533" Text="Need for Laptop Recommendation (programming/some gaming)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="09549077-2c6e-4a6d-b63a-1d0d6ca34abd" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:18:01.043" UserId="533" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="85c86dbe-bb5e-456e-a73a-a77927e2241c" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:46:25.887" UserId="535" Text="I have a fairly known and consistent use-case.&#xD;&#xA;My laptop does almost no computational work.&#xD;&#xA;I do a ton of heavy computational work, but it all happens on big multicore servers, which I access/control via [Jupyter][1], ssh, remote desktop etc.&#xD;&#xA;Even doing word-processing, will not normally be on my laptop, I have access to several deskops. Doing things locally is generally a case of reading something while in a cafe, taking notes in a meeting, watching a movie in bed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software to run locally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Web-browser (with Flash)&#xD;&#xA; - [LyX][2]&#xD;&#xA; - PDF Viewer&#xD;&#xA; - Video [VLC][3]&#xD;&#xA; - OpenOffice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see there is no requirements regarding Linux or Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been very satisfied in the past with [Dell Inspiron Mini 9][4], and with &#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba NB550D][5], each of which lasted 3 years. Before some part failed. for the Dell Mini it was something in the keyboard, for the NB550D it was something in the screen controlled (I suspect a wire broke, and am going to investigate). Both with stood serious amounts of trauma without incident.&#xD;&#xA; If I could find a mint condition NB550D still for sale I would buy it without hesitation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are talking about low spec'ed laptops here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - ~1GHz processor &#xD;&#xA;  - &lt;10inch screen&#xD;&#xA;  - No optical drive&#xD;&#xA;  - &lt;$500&#xD;&#xA;  - 2-4Gb of RAM (I have 4GB stick to swap in from my NB550)&#xD;&#xA;  - **Cheap**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This kinda requirements are what the Netbook brandings were all about, but they seem to be going away. I see a few chromebooks still for sale, but I have no experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://jupyter.org&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lyx.org&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/32155/dell-inspiron-mini-9.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.mytoshiba.com.au/products/computers/netbook/nb550d/pll5fa-00k01s/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2252" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="85c86dbe-bb5e-456e-a73a-a77927e2241c" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:46:25.887" UserId="535" Text="Laptop for Remote Work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2253" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="85c86dbe-bb5e-456e-a73a-a77927e2241c" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:46:25.887" UserId="535" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="617" RevisionGUID="7c7fb098-efbe-428d-ada3-91ccaae53906" CreationDate="2015-10-11T02:29:57.647" UserId="531" Text="Its more of a general *class* of systems but chances are you'll want to add your own keyboard,[enter link description here][1]speakers and mic but a &quot;nuc&quot; class system and/or a mini PC of some sort would work well. There's a few considerations here but I'll go through them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I talk about hardware, there's a few additional considerations I have. A BT dongle is cheap and tiny, and many systems have BT 4.0 but not older standards support. Spend the 5 dollars or less if a system is otherwise perfect and add a cheap BT dongle if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the older bay trail &quot;brix&quot; - which is one varient of a nuc class machine. The current equivalents run brasswell I believe. They're passively cooled, run linux fine and have 3 usb ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A NUC is essentially a small, super compact PC built off of laptop grade processors. They take laptop ram, are pretty tiny, and you'd need to add your own keyboard, mouse speakers and such. Mine has bluetooth 4.0, but you'd need a BT adaptor for older standards I suspect. These have fairly low power use, as is, and you can tailor your system to your needs to an extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something even smaller (and cheaper), there's various chinese mini PCs that might work - the x86 versions are just over a hundred dollars. &#xD;&#xA;Not actually used one, but if I was building a system for uses like this (or had another excuse to), I'd just pick up one to try. This [ainol][2] model was what I was looking at, but there's probably a ton of options &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In either case I'd be able to (if needed) add a BT dongle &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Next_Unit_of_Computing#Third_generation_.28Bay_Trail-M.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ainol-novo.com/ainol-mini-pc-black.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2256" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="5a41397f-38a0-4e8c-b62d-c82209257d89" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:07:30.567" UserId="60" Comment="Added the [processor] tag." Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2257" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="5a41397f-38a0-4e8c-b62d-c82209257d89" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:07:30.567" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 532 edit id of 173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="53504f30-1127-4fe2-9711-85a01202649c" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:27:49.250" UserId="533" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text=".Hello everyone. First of all, I hope I came to the right stackexchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations so I think here's the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is Samsung SENS X170, dual core 1.30GHz/3GB ram/integrated graphics(opengl 2.xx support). My requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit; I don't have windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung; not because it's the best, but all the other AS system is rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Added] I'm thinking of going to France next year, so I'm considering a laptop that is quite widely used in France(so that I can take AS easily?). In other words, I'll not limit my options to Samsung.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 11~13 inch screen/durable/low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old SNES X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo2 or DOOM with user mod... I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005~2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programmings(R/latex/python) and willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so.&#xD;&#xA;Actually, if installing linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using linux this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on linux, I can stil use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2259" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="c500c377-bfbe-4f7e-99f1-6a1c2fd935e4" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:46:16.420" UserId="533" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text=".Hello everyone. First of all, I hope I came to the right stackexchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations so I think here's the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is Samsung SENS X170, dual core 1.30GHz/3GB ram/integrated graphics(opengl 2.xx support). My requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit; I don't have windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung; not because it's the best, but all the other AS system is rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Added] I'm thinking of going to France next year, so I'm considering a laptop that is quite widely used in France(so that I can take AS easily?). In other words, I'll not limit my options to Samsung, but still prefer Samsung due to regional problem here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 11~13 inch screen/durable/low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old SNES X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo2 or DOOM with user mod... I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005~2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programmings(R/latex/python) and willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so.&#xD;&#xA;Actually, if installing linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using linux this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on linux, I can stil use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2260" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="0d02d1ab-3cd8-4f3b-a189-166684ae0819" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:52:44.743" UserId="533" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text=".Hello everyone. First of all, I hope I came to the right stackexchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations so I think here's the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is Samsung SENS X170, dual core 1.30GHz/3GB ram/integrated graphics(opengl 2.xx support). My requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit; I don't have windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung; not because it's the best, but all the other AS system is rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Added] I'm thinking of going to France next year, so I'm considering a laptop that is quite widely used in France(so that I can take AS easily?). In other words, I'll not limit my options to Samsung. ASUS seems doing OK here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 11~13 inch screen/durable/low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old SNES X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo2 or DOOM with user mod... I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005~2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programmings(R/latex/python) and willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so.&#xD;&#xA;Actually, if installing linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using linux this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on linux, I can stil use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2261" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="617" RevisionGUID="4d32c00a-a289-44e3-ab47-acb83d9c5d0a" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:53:24.667" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed link and grammar." Text="Its more of a general *class* of systems but chances are you'll want to add your own keyboard, speakers and mic but a [&quot;nuc&quot;][1] class system and/or a mini PC of some sort would work well. There's a few considerations here but I'll go through them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I talk about hardware, there's a few additional considerations I have. A Bluetooth dongle is cheap and tiny, and many systems have Bluetooth 4.0 but not older standards. Spend the 5 dollars or less on a Bluetooth  dongle if needed if the system is otherwise perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the older bay trail &quot;brix&quot; - which is one variant of a nuc class machine. The current equivalents run Brasswell I believe. They're passively cooled, run Linux fine and have 3 USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A NUC is essentially a small, super compact PC built off of laptop grade processors. They take laptop ram and are pretty tiny, but you'd need to add your own keyboard, mouse, speakers and such. Mine has Bluetooth 4.0, but you'd need a Bluetooth adapter for older standards I suspect. These have fairly low power use, as is, and you can tailor your system to your needs to an extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something even smaller (and cheaper), there's various Chinese mini PCs that might work - the x86 versions are just over a hundred dollars. &#xD;&#xA;I have not actually used one, but if I was building a system for uses like this (or had another excuse to), I'd just pick up one to try. This [ainol][2] model was what I was looking at, but there's probably a ton of options &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In either case I'd be able to (if needed) add a Bluetooth dongle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Next_Unit_of_Computing#Third_generation_.28Bay_Trail-M.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ainol-novo.com/ainol-mini-pc-black.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2262" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="617" RevisionGUID="4d32c00a-a289-44e3-ab47-acb83d9c5d0a" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:53:24.667" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 57, 155 edit id of 174" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2263" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="9a20e600-de03-406d-a3d0-cfbce2531920" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:00:56.273" UserId="155" Comment="punctuation and grammar; removed irrelevant tag; improved title" Text="I have a fairly known and consistent use-case. My laptop does almost no computational work. I do a ton of heavy computational work, but it all happens on big multicore servers which I access/control via [Jupyter][1], SSH, remote desktop etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even doing word-processing will not normally be on my laptop. I have access to several desktops. Doing things locally is generally a case of reading something while in a cafe, taking notes in a meeting, or watching a movie in bed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software to run locally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Web-browser (with Flash)&#xD;&#xA; - [LyX][2]&#xD;&#xA; - PDF Viewer&#xD;&#xA; - Video [VLC][3]&#xD;&#xA; - OpenOffice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see there are no requirements regarding Linux or Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been very satisfied in the past with [Dell Inspiron Mini 9][4] and with &#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba NB550D][5], each of which lasted 3 years before some part failed. For the Dell Mini it was something in the keyboard, and for the NB550D it was something in the screen (I suspect a wire broke and am going to investigate). Both withstood serious amounts of trauma without incident. If I could find a mint condition NB550D still for sale I would buy it without hesitation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are talking about low spec'ed laptops here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - ~1GHz processor &#xD;&#xA;  - &lt; 10-inch screen&#xD;&#xA;  - No optical drive&#xD;&#xA;  - &lt; $500&#xD;&#xA;  - 2-4GB of RAM (I have a 4GB stick to swap in from my NB550)&#xD;&#xA;  - **Cheap**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These kinds of requirements are what the netbook brandings were all about, but they seem to be going away. I see a few Chromebooks still for sale, but I have no experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://jupyter.org&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lyx.org&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/32155/dell-inspiron-mini-9.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.mytoshiba.com.au/products/computers/netbook/nb550d/pll5fa-00k01s/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2264" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="9a20e600-de03-406d-a3d0-cfbce2531920" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:00:56.273" UserId="155" Comment="punctuation and grammar; removed irrelevant tag; improved title" Text="Laptop for simple tasks and remote work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2265" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="616" RevisionGUID="9a20e600-de03-406d-a3d0-cfbce2531920" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:00:56.273" UserId="155" Comment="punctuation and grammar; removed irrelevant tag; improved title" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2266" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="c524d99f-3dd2-4fcc-94ed-272ec057ec71" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:09:03.450" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar and punctuation for readability" Text="First of all, I hope I came to the right StackExchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations, so I think this is the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is a Samsung Sens X170 with a dual core at 1.30GHz, 3GB RAM, and integrated graphics (OpenGL 2.xx support). My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit &amp;ndash; I don't have a Windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung &amp;ndash; not because it's the best, but all the other AS systems are rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of going to France next year, so I'm considering a laptop that is quite widely used in France (so that I can take AS easily?). In other words, I'll not limit my options to Samsung. ASUS seems to be doing OK here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 11-13 inch screen, durable, low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old Sens X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo 2 and DOOM with user mod. I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005-2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programming (R/LaTeX/Python) and I'm willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have a 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed Windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so. Actually, if installing Linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using that this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on Linux, I can still use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2267" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="c524d99f-3dd2-4fcc-94ed-272ec057ec71" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:09:03.450" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar and punctuation for readability" Text="Need laptop for programming/some gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="618" RevisionGUID="f146a6bb-f880-4db3-af94-92cffc11a96f" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:45:48.763" UserId="531" Text="There's chromebook class &quot;windows for bing&quot; boxen that fit most of your needs. I'm pretty happy with my [HP stream 11][1] and there's a new, lighter version coming out soon. [Lenovo][2] has a similar system and I seem to remember dell did (tho the smallest screen I can find is 15 inches) and there may be others so most of this talks about the current (2014) and future generations of these. MS is actually pushing this class of systems in competition with chromebooks, and least with mine, the freebies basically covered half the cost of the system, including a year of office 365.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These things are typical for the class.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a low end bay trail celeron 2840 While it is 2 cores at 2.16 GHz to 2.58 GHz (burst), you can expect 6-8 hours of battery life. That said, these things are thin, light, and have something like a 6 hour battery life. Its obviously going to get replaced by brasswell. You might also find one with a quad core atom chip, but those are supposed to be lower end processors. They're fanless and run pretty cool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32gb of storage built in - which is a weakness compared to a proper dell. I use my SD card slot for more storage. While a chunk of that is the recovery console, part of your OS is stored there, compressed and read only to save space. This is EMMC and on mine, it benchmarks faster than spinning rust, but slower than a typical SD card. This is what I got on the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They come with windows for bing (which is essentially exactly the same as windows 8 home. While they use the aformentioned trick to save space, this may not be needed for windows 10 should you upgrade (backup and install from scratch!) or the system runs windows 10 out of the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 11 inch screen with a fairly thick bezel. That said, its lighter and thinner than my dad's mini 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ram's soldered on I believe. I have 2gb of it on mine, and that's typical for the class&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the specifics of the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its actually got one of the better laptop keyboards I've typed on, and for a chiclet keyboard, very usable. The extra screen size also gets you a less cramped keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Build quality is solid. I throw it in a pretty cheap, thin sleeve (and for 2 weeks, wrapped it in a cloth shopping bag...), throw it in my backpack, and use it while commuting. Its still in perfect condition. This is surprising considering HP's reputation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can get it in any colour you want as long as its pink or blue. Its matte plastic, and stickers stick to the outside well (which is an important thing for a hacker system!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- screen's matte and 1366x768. Its not a *great* screen, but it works well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've managed to get fedora running on it without needing to change anything (since it has secure boot enabled, and I was too lazy to turn it off) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?eSpotName=Stream11&amp;storeId=10151&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-S20-30-Netbook-Review.130285.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/J4jmq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="618" RevisionGUID="40be5497-b969-4da7-ace9-888ef9357d89" CreationDate="2015-10-11T05:51:23.520" UserId="531" Comment="added 524 characters in body" Text="There's chromebook class &quot;windows for bing&quot; boxen that fit most of your needs. I'm pretty happy with my [HP stream 11][1] and there's a new, lighter version coming out soon. [Lenovo][2] has a similar system and I seem to remember dell did (tho the smallest screen I can find is 15 inches) and there may be others so most of this talks about the current (2014) and future generations of these. MS is actually pushing this class of systems in competition with chromebooks, and least with mine, the freebies basically covered half the cost of the system, including a year of office 365.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These things are typical for the class.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a low end bay trail celeron 2840. While it is 2 cores at 2.16 GHz to 2.58 GHz (burst), you can expect 6-8 hours of battery life. That said, these things are thin, light, and have something like a 6 hour battery life. Its obviously going to get replaced by brasswell. You might also find one with a quad core atom chip, but those are supposed to be lower end processors. They're fanless and run pretty cool. *You can't* find any modern sub 1ghz processors, but these things are insanely efficient, and probably give you less heat and battery life than the older atoms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32gb of storage built in - which is a weakness compared to a proper olderschool netbook. It should be enough for your use though. While a chunk of that is the recovery console, part of your OS is stored there, compressed and read only to save space. This is EMMC and on mine, it benchmarks faster than spinning rust, but slower than a typical SD card. This is what I got on the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They come with windows for bing (which is essentially exactly the same as windows 8 home. While they use the aformentioned trick to save space, this may not be needed for windows 10 should you upgrade (backup and install from scratch!) or the system runs windows 10 out of the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 11 inch screen with a fairly thick bezel. That said, its lighter and thinner than my dad's mini 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ram's soldered on I believe. I have 2gb of it on mine, and that's typical for the class&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the specifics of the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its actually got one of the better laptop keyboards I've typed on, and for a chiclet keyboard, very usable. The extra screen size also gets you a less cramped keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Build quality is solid. I throw it in a pretty cheap, thin sleeve (and for 2 weeks, wrapped it in a cloth shopping bag...), throw it in my backpack, and use it while commuting. Its still in perfect condition. This is surprising considering HP's reputation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can get it in any colour you want as long as its pink or blue. Its matte plastic, and stickers stick to the outside well (which is an important thing for a hacker system!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- screen's matte and 1366x768. Its not a *great* screen, but it works well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- one USB 3.0 port, one USB 2.0 port, HDMI out. Its not a lot, but there's only so much you can cram in a system that small. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've managed to get fedora running on it without needing to change anything (since it has secure boot enabled, and I was too lazy to turn it off) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not quite a plug for my blog but the images here, and a more complete review of my stream 11 can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?eSpotName=Stream11&amp;storeId=10151&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-S20-30-Netbook-Review.130285.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/X1bg5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/J4jmq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/esffj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://journeymangeek.com/index.php/new-hardware-mini-review-the-hp-stream-11/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="619" RevisionGUID="14ee1975-8e83-4f8a-8576-21276ddec5ce" CreationDate="2015-10-11T07:02:12.603" UserId="536" Text="Taking in to account your desire to charge your laptop, the largest battery I could find within your budget and from what appears to be a reputable seller would be the [BiXPower BP-160](http://www.amazon.com/BiXPower-42500mAh-Capacity-External-Rechargeable/dp/B0087HW5YM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly over $200 at $209+shipping.&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity of 153Wh, equivalent to 42,500mAh@3.6V.  This is likely 2-3x the capacity of your laptop's internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Not overly small (11&quot;x6&quot;x1.25&quot;), but it is flat and should fit in the bottom of most backpacks.&#xD;&#xA; - weighs just under 3lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - Outputs either 12V or 19V.  Most laptops use 19V or close enough, and most netbooks use 12V.  It also includes a selection of adapter tips which should allow it to work with just about any laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also offer even larger packs (which they don't appear to sell on Amazon) above your budget, like the [BP-220](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-BP220-p/bat-bp220.htm) (223 watt-hours, $290) and the [CP-300K](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-CP300K-p/bat-cp300xdd90.htm) (300 watt-hours, $400)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="619" RevisionGUID="f2728826-c490-4811-9b32-60b3cce1e8f0" CreationDate="2015-10-11T07:13:30.953" UserId="536" Comment="seller reputability" Text="Taking in to account your desire to charge your laptop, the largest battery I could find within your budget and from what appears to be a reputable seller would be the [BiXPower BP-160](http://www.amazon.com/BiXPower-42500mAh-Capacity-External-Rechargeable/dp/B0087HW5YM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly over $200 at $209+shipping.&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity of 153Wh, equivalent to 42,500mAh@3.6V.  This is likely 2-3x the capacity of your laptop's internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Not overly small (11&quot;x6&quot;x1.25&quot;), but it is flat and should fit in the bottom of most backpacks.&#xD;&#xA; - weighs just under 3lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - Outputs either 12V or 19V.  Most laptops use 19V or close enough, and most netbooks use 12V.  It also includes a selection of adapter tips which should allow it to work with just about any laptop.&#xD;&#xA; - The Seller has plenty of positive reviews on both this product and as a seller on Amazon.  They also answer product questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also offer even larger packs (which they don't appear to sell on Amazon) above your budget, like the [BP-220](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-BP220-p/bat-bp220.htm) (223 watt-hours, $290) and the [CP-300K](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-CP300K-p/bat-cp300xdd90.htm) (300 watt-hours, $400)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2272" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="620" RevisionGUID="6b759122-b8db-4be4-8326-6cb8b50dfae1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T09:38:49.730" UserId="538" Text="I have never used any HDMI switch before, so my knowledge about them is zero.&#xD;&#xA;Now I have one and I am wondering if its behaviour is normal.&#xD;&#xA;I have a beamer for the output signal, a Wii U as first input signal and a laptop as second input signal. The switch I bought has one output and two input plugs, so I put them in accordingly. The packaging says that the switch has an automatic switching function, pretending that the correct signal will be recognized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now what happens? The switch only let a signal through if BOTH input devices are PLUGGED IN AND SWITCHED ON. Then, I can use the manual switch button to switch to the signal I want. But whenever I turn one of the devices off (Wii U or laptop) or unplug it (we only plug the laptop in if we want to wantch movies), no signal gets through to the beamer. And the manual switch button does not work either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this behaviour normal, or have I just bought junk?&#xD;&#xA;I was expecting that it recognizes if just one input is switched on and lets this signal through accordingly. This is what I think of &quot;automatic switching&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are your experiences with HDMI switches? Are there any models that do what I expect of them, or is the behaviour of my switch the normal one? Mine is from Vivanco, and it cost 45€. It says &quot;full HDTV&quot; and 1080p, and supports deep color.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions on other manufacturers, models and usual prices will be appreciated. I live in Germany, so if anyone knows models I can get here (via amazon.de or just some media store), this will be especially appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2273" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="620" RevisionGUID="6b759122-b8db-4be4-8326-6cb8b50dfae1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T09:38:49.730" UserId="538" Text="HDMI switches - how are they supposed to work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2274" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="620" RevisionGUID="6b759122-b8db-4be4-8326-6cb8b50dfae1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T09:38:49.730" UserId="538" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="619" RevisionGUID="89c6930b-a55e-409f-b894-8f76ed64d824" CreationDate="2015-10-11T09:51:40.340" UserId="536" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="Taking in to account your desire to charge your laptop, the largest battery I could find within your budget and from what appears to be a reputable seller would be the [BiXPower BP-160](http://www.amazon.com/BiXPower-42500mAh-Capacity-External-Rechargeable/dp/B0087HW5YM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly over $200 at $209+shipping.&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity of 153Wh, equivalent to 42,500mAh@3.6V.  This is likely 2-3x the capacity of your laptop's internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Not overly small (11&quot;x6&quot;x1.25&quot;), but it is flat and should fit in the bottom of most backpacks.&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs just under 3lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - Outputs either 12V or 19V.  Most laptops use 19V or close enough, and most netbooks use 12V.  It also includes a selection of adapter tips which should allow it to work with just about any laptop.&#xD; Also has a USB port for charging mobile devices.&#xA; - The seller has plenty of positive reviews on both this product and as a seller on Amazon.  They also answer product questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also offer even larger packs (which they don't appear to sell on Amazon) above your budget, like the [BP-220](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-BP220-p/bat-bp220.htm) (223 watt-hours, $290) and the [CP-300K](http://www.bixpower.com/Bat-CP300K-p/bat-cp300xdd90.htm) (300 watt-hours, $400)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="621" RevisionGUID="28ea2bc7-b621-40aa-b021-8397671081ab" CreationDate="2015-10-11T11:09:49.547" UserId="8" Text="I've recommended it before but I'll recommend it again (and no, I swear I'm not an Acer employee): the [Acer Aspire E1-572](http://uk.pcmag.com/acer-e1-572-6870/4205/review/acer-aspire-e1-572-6870). It's a little over your specs in some ways, but it's a good laptop, especially for the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i3/i5 (in newer versions) quad core 1.7 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB DDR3L RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 1 TB internal HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Removable/replaceable battery (handy for being away from power sockets)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine came with Windows 8 installed. Newer versions may come with Windows 10. Installing Linux is about as easy as it is on any &gt; Win 8 machine - they don't like it, but it can be done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On programming capability: I use mine for some heavy programming (small games in Java and C#, plus utility Python 2.7 and 3.4), so you're sorted there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On gaming: again, I use mine for playing games that are more modern that what you'd be playing on it. I usually end up on mid-low graphics settings because of the lack of dedicated graphics card (it has integrated Intel graphics), but again, older games should be better for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an exact figure for price, but it's under $600." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="71cfa913-645a-4311-b59f-0e67d52ac4b5" CreationDate="2015-10-11T12:04:19.287" UserId="533" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="First of all, I hope I came to the right StackExchange; I've seen some posts about laptop recommendations, so I think this is the right place to ask those questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of buying a new laptop. My current one is a Samsung Sens X170 with a dual core at 1.30GHz, 3GB RAM, and integrated graphics (OpenGL 2.xx support). My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. $500 budget limit &amp;ndash; I don't have a Windows serial, so about $600 including the serial&#xD;&#xA;2. Samsung &amp;ndash; not because it's the best, but all the other AS systems are rather disappointing except Samsung in my country, and I'm a rather clumsy person...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of going to France next year, so I'm considering a laptop that is quite widely used in France (so that I can take AS easily?). In other words, I'll not limit my options to Samsung. ASUS seems to be doing OK here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 11-13 inch screen(I'll allow 15 inch but it shouldn't be too heavy), durable, low electricity consumption is preferable&#xD;&#xA;4. I play games a lot, yes, but I usually play old games. My old Sens X170 even had a hard time playing Diablo 2 and DOOM with user mod. I'd just be happy if I can play games pleasantly that came in around 2005-2006.&#xD;&#xA;5. I don't do much work related to graphics, but I often do some simple programming (R/LaTeX/Python) and I'm willing to learn more about it.&#xD;&#xA;6. I do have a 2TB HDD so much space is not strictly needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't installed Windows by myself, but I think I can do it and it would be nice to learn how to do so. Actually, if installing Linux is not much of a hassle, I'm thinking of using that this time and pushing up the budget to $600. &#xD;&#xA;When old games refuse to be played on Linux, I can still use my old laptop instead, I'm thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcomed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="622" RevisionGUID="243e5811-3e42-4e4e-baa1-14435580261f" CreationDate="2015-10-11T12:35:44.500" UserId="531" Text="I've got the 256gb varient of the samsung 850 and running a few tests would be quite enlightening. Improving compile time may also depend on processor so... it depends on your options. Likewise with IDE &amp; Git performance. That said, I upgraded from a 840 (which I can't find the benchmarks for, its on my laptop at the moment) and it was a significant improvement. Enough yammering.   &#xD;&#xA;Science!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios time (boot time) is 15 seconds according to windows. My system is a bit of a mess and I could probably remove things to speed it up more :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a drive I've been using as a boot drive. Optimised for performance in samsung disk magician, though kept fairly empty, since bulk storage is another drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDtune benchmarks &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe these numbers exceed your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crystal Disk Mark Benchmarks with what I believe is the default settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Few other nice things about this? ***[10 year warranty][3]***, and its MLC rather than TLC, which means better endurance and speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kFPN9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax1W9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/warranty.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="623" RevisionGUID="e650575c-43d2-41c9-95ec-0bac2ba928e4" CreationDate="2015-10-11T12:54:18.380" UserId="531" Text="I'm not entirely sure about the AMD side of things but I'm running 4K *now* and I've been using nvidia GPUs and currently have a [dell P2715Q][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connectivity:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally DVI and VGA are nearly dead, they're getting phased out. We're in the arkward situation where support for HDMI is significantly better on TVs and entertainment devices, while DP wipes the floor with everything else on PCs. If you must standardise, use DP for PCs. If you decide to connect your console to your monitor (I don't judge!) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the monitor side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; SST &gt;&gt;&gt; MST. Its simpler, you get the full 60 hz refresh rate, and amusingly, &#xD;&#xA;its better supported by hardware in most cases. You'll need DP 1.1a or better but meh, as you'll see that's not hard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use mini DP or DP in, not HDMI - the standard for HDMI on PCs is an older standard, monitors may support the same standard and will only do 30 hz. In fact, if you *must* standardise, DP first, and DP for your best displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're doing photo editing, getting a properly colour calibrated screen a good idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can daisy chain, it'll cut your refresh rate in half. Not too recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the computer side:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've gotten 4K output on a 660. In some cases I've managed to *game* badly on 4K, and the output wasn't the bottleneck, the ability to render the game was. I believe the 650 is the minimum GPU from nvidia for 4K (they have a [handy list][2] here)  and  anything better than that should handle it fine. 4th and 5th gen (and better) Intel [video should be able to handle at least one 4K display][3]. I can't find an equivilent chart or resource for AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something worth considering is the modern UHD display is *only* 8 megapixels. While its challenging to render *graphics*, and you might need power to *render* video, it should probably be fairly simple to build a system that can handle photo editing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www1.la.dell.com/bz/en/corp/peripherals/dell-p2715q-monitor/pd.aspx?refid=dell-p2715q-monitor&amp;s=corp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/technology/4k/supported-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/quick-reference-guide-to-intel-processor-graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="624" RevisionGUID="06dcdf42-c2e7-4563-987c-3d209cfd51d2" CreationDate="2015-10-11T13:10:30.723" UserId="84" Text="Most video switches will attempt to draw power from the inputs, but if you want them to work in all conditions (e.g., no input providing power to one side) you need a separate power connection.  Your switch probably has a DC power input: just get a corresponding connector and plug it in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2281" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="10fa865d-fd95-4c5f-a846-bef6c4ed7f1a" CreationDate="2015-10-11T13:21:29.957" UserId="518" Comment="Either people are trolling a bit, or they are only reading the title." Text="SSDs might fail rarely, but when they fail they do so grandly. Data recovery services typically charge thousands of euros even for the smallest drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course the cheapest data recovery technology is **backing up in advance**, and there are many services out there, but I'm not interested in &quot;what ifs&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes a formerly working SSD isn't recognised at all by the motherboard, or seems not to be powered any longer, or has some other failure which prevents any interaction with it. In such cases, it's sometimes enough to replace a chip/controller inside, or something even simpler (which of course shouldn't be done at home).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any SSD technology, producer or line stand out as having a feature which probably or provably makes data recovery cheaper? Or vice versa one which is clearly the worst of class, neighbourhing [planned obsolescence](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence)? (The former would be for instance a drive which is absolutely impossible to open without destroying it.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="625" RevisionGUID="ec7c264d-64d6-42a2-8989-79866953deda" CreationDate="2015-10-11T13:37:27.150" UserId="531" Text="I'd suggest my *other* dream case - the [HAF XB][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it looks like a mini ITX case, its really a full ATX case designed to double as a workbench.&#xD;&#xA;Lets see&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no smaller than an ATX-Mid case. its arranged a bit oddly but I'll take a full ATX board. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can support all picked out parts (listed and linked below)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I believe so &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer motherboard: Will take a full ATX motherboard so.. yeah, we have room to spare&#xD;&#xA;  2. Cooler Master Hyper 12 EVO heatsink: from the specs   &#xD;&#xA;      CPU cooler height: 180mm/7.1inch Evo's 159 mm&#xD;&#xA;  3.  EVGA GTX 980 graphics card: People have done this. Maximum card length is 334mm&#xD;&#xA;  4. the Corsair AX760 power supply: it'll take a standard PSU  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- easy to work with, meaning no strange support bars, opens up fairly well, and drive bays are organized: Its two levels and pretty open&#xD;&#xA; - have adequate air cooling capabilities for gaming and rendering&#xD;&#xA;The HAF stands for High Air Flow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -   at least 2 front USB ports: 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Handles: Right there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical drive slot is about the only place where this falls short. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.coolermaster.com/case/lan-box/haf-xb/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Dwlhb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2283" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="626" RevisionGUID="1c404f3e-59ea-4373-bf53-93051455f148" CreationDate="2015-10-11T13:52:44.600" UserId="531" Text="My dream case, and I actually own this one. You did say *minimum* size right? Its a mid tower, but just barely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The cosair 600T][2]. Used by [Jeff Atwood][3] and used by the folks who [develop stackexchange][4] least of all  me. This is the case for the *discerning* computer builder who can't be bothered with trivialities like a lack of space and wants to manage cables *like a boss*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're *not* going to have an easy time moving this behemoth (though i did bring mine on a public bus).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core requirements? Met, or exceeded. I have a full ATX board, 2 hdds, an SSD, a full sized 980TI. I could probably fit a small village of smurfs or a small poodle.  in this case. All your parts will fit with room to grow. It has nearly tool less drive caddies bays (6x 2.5/3.5 inch convertables - 2.5 inch drives need little screws), half of which you can move in case you need to park a dual processor video card of excessive length. Other than those caddies, its minimal tools, and I routinely just pop the sides to do maintainance, with everything accessible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's plenty of space to tuck cables behind the motherboard tray. Stock config is 2x 200mm fans (big led lit brutes) and 1 120mm fan (I swapped mine for a noctua 120mm). With the mesh sided model you can park FOUR more 120mm fans on the side. I haven't needed to with my rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it has 4 front USB ports, and a single USB 3.0 (which I'll come to in the issues)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Issues? The single USB 3.0 port's connected via a regular USB 3.0 plug - You'll need to patch it into the rear or buy a connector that breaks out the header into a USB 3.0 female pair - I bought something like [this][5] and hooked the USB 3.0 hub in my monitor to the second one, snaking it through a water cooling port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fan controller for 4 fans exists - you can hook it up to your PSU, hook up your fans and control fan speeds with the dial. I found it wasn't too useful and control my 3 fans via the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a pain to move. the latches double as handles, but its so heavy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/d248Z.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.corsair.com/en/graphite-series-600t&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://blog.codinghorror.com/building-a-pc-part-vii-rebooting/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://nickcraver.com/desktop-build/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.dx.com/p/20-pin-to-2-x-usb-3-0-extender-adapter-cable-for-computer-black-383113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="627" RevisionGUID="70e1a8b7-5120-4281-bf33-7e4885a93dbe" CreationDate="2015-10-11T14:41:41.823" UserId="531" Text="The [xiaomi piston 2.0/2.1][1] (there's a 3.0 model out at the moment) out but I've never used it before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's the model I have anyway.  Reviews are [decent][3] and people tend to like it. And yes, they come with a case, rubber winding widget, and other shiny stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones are machined aluminium. Cable has a remote control and the length between the plug and controller's covered in a protective sheath, and are supposed to be kevlar reinforced. The headphones have great strain relief, and I've had mine for quite a while, daily use with no issues. Its built *seriously* solidly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll get 3 pairs of smooth earbud covers in different sizes and one flanged one, which is supposed to fit tighter.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality's decent, my phone's more of a limiting factor (I'm an audio snob). They're about as good as you'd get for the price range. It comes with that lovely rubber headphone holder and 'jewel case', and street price is ~30usd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remote control is below where the headphone splits. Its got 3 buttons, tho the volume buttons only work on some phones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, there's a lot of fakes of these so caveat emptor. I got mine from xiaomi directly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering I was going with super cheapie headphones since I killed quite a few, and this has surviced me, I'd say these are a hardy pair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mi.com/en/headphones/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oJ2Xc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.head-fi.org/products/xiaomi-pistons-2-0-mk301" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2285" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="627" RevisionGUID="d461d89b-5377-46f2-a0e7-392fb0a2b540" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:02:01.757" UserId="531" Comment="added 530 characters in body" Text="The [xiaomi piston 2.0/2.1][1] (there's a 3.0 model out at the moment) out but I've never used it before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cliff's notes version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Price: 20-30 usd depending. Got mine for 20 singapore dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   -  Good sound quality - Good enough. I've tried it on my *good* gear on a lark and it sounds fine. My phone/whatever google play transcodes it to seems to be the limitation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Reliability - I've had mine ~6 months I think. Its built solidly   &#xD;&#xA;   - Strong cable - Kevlar reinforced cables, sleeving on half of it. Joints are protected by the remote. &#xD;&#xA;   - Comfortability - Has different eartips to suit your needs &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's the model I have anyway.  Reviews are [decent][3] and people tend to like it. And yes, they come with a case, rubber winding widget, and other shiny stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones are machined aluminium. Cable has a remote control and the length between the plug and controller's covered in a protective sheath, and are supposed to be kevlar reinforced. The headphones have great strain relief, and I've had mine for quite a while, daily use with no issues. Its built *seriously* solidly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll get 3 pairs of smooth earbud covers in different sizes and one flanged one, which is supposed to fit tighter.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality's decent, my phone's more of a limiting factor (I'm an audio snob). They're about as good as you'd get for the price range. It comes with that lovely rubber headphone holder and 'jewel case', and street price is ~30usd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remote control is below where the headphone splits. Its got 3 buttons, tho the volume buttons only work on some phones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, there's a lot of fakes of these so caveat emptor. I got mine from xiaomi directly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering I was going with super cheapie headphones since I killed quite a few, and this has surviced me, I'd say these are a hardy pair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mi.com/en/headphones/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oJ2Xc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.head-fi.org/products/xiaomi-pistons-2-0-mk301" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2286" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="628" RevisionGUID="cabc1b49-1c9c-4c47-b7ed-7d1793764456" CreationDate="2015-10-11T17:40:59.493" UserId="342" Text="although the answer from @JuanCarlosCoto was already accepted, I still must disagree.&#xD;&#xA;An external fan, providing that is is not a blow-fan or fan pad , but an exhaust fan type, can be extremely effective  - in fact much more than an internal one due to a much bigger facet surface and possibility to work in much higher speeds .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Exhaust type fans** ( sometimes called **Vacuum Air Extracting fans**  ) , as opposed to blow-fans or pads, work on a different concept. they are actually sucking heat from the regular exhaust grill , instead of blowing air inside ( or in case of the pads - blowing air on the surfaces of the body ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doing that - they are actually taking advantage of the integral / original aerodynamic and airflow design of the laptop, causing the air to enter and flow over the heat-sink / the processor / GPU in a ,much higher volume / minute capacity ( CMq/sec ) all that through the original air ducts .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Several of my laptops have a desktop CPU combined with metal body and  and are really hot at times , in fact - so hot that I was more than once inflected with a heat burn ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the cooling pads I have tried were somewhat of a hoax , never had any real influence ( 3-5 degrees Celsius ) - except making noise .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But when I found exhaust fans - the effect was extreme . &#xD;&#xA;In my tests , on an HP 8560p , after activating an exhaust fan the temperature on the integrated CPU sensor dropped 30 degrees in 20 sec ( 70's to 40's ) with immediate effect ( meaning the drop started in 1-2 seconds !! ) &#xD;&#xA;The  second drop took some more time ( about a minute ) but it was so efficient , that the fan had to be stopped due to over - cooling now ! &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The test was made with a 10,000 max RPM external exhaust fan with 2 automatic adjustable speeds and 125.15CFM ( cubic feet / minute ) or 3.54 CCM ( Cubic Meter / minute ) sized 165×80×48MM 1.9W and cost 8$ !! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another advantage is that these type of fans do not insert dust into your laptop like blow fans, but actually sucking the dust out ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the best part - they are really cheap, and much more portable than the pads .&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2287" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="628" RevisionGUID="9ed4fd25-8dd5-4217-8d5c-c8ce9036a518" CreationDate="2015-10-11T17:48:19.183" UserId="342" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="although the answer from @JuanCarlosCoto was already accepted, I still must disagree on one point &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ..Bear in mind that whatever external fans you may feasibly buy and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; install will provide much less efficient cooling than an internal&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external fan, providing that is is not a blow-fan or fan pad , but an exhaust fan type, can be extremely effective  - in fact much more than an internal one due to a much bigger facet surface and possibility to work in much higher speeds .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Exhaust type fans** ( sometimes called **Vacuum Air Extracting fans**  ) , as opposed to blow-fans or pads, work on a different concept. they are actually sucking heat from the regular exhaust grill , instead of blowing air inside ( or in case of the pads - blowing air on the surfaces of the body ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doing that - they are actually taking advantage of the integral / original aerodynamic and airflow design of the laptop, causing the air to enter and flow over the heat-sink / the processor / GPU in a ,much higher volume / minute capacity ( CMq/sec ) all that through the original air ducts .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Several of my laptops have a desktop CPU combined with metal body and  and are really hot at times , in fact - so hot that I was more than once inflected with a heat burn ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the cooling pads I have tried were somewhat of a hoax , never had any real influence ( 3-5 degrees Celsius ) - except making noise .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But when I found exhaust fans - the effect was extreme . &#xD;&#xA;In my tests , on an HP 8560p , after activating an exhaust fan the temperature on the integrated CPU sensor dropped 30 degrees in 20 sec ( 70's to 40's ) with immediate effect ( meaning the drop started in 1-2 seconds !! ) &#xD;&#xA;The  second drop took some more time ( about a minute ) but it was so efficient , that the fan had to be stopped due to over - cooling now ! &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The test was made with a 10,000 max RPM external exhaust fan with 2 automatic adjustable speeds and 125.15CFM ( cubic feet / minute ) or 3.54 CCM ( Cubic Meter / minute ) sized 165×80×48MM 1.9W and cost 8$ !! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another advantage is that these type of fans do not insert dust into your laptop like blow fans, but actually sucking the dust out ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the best part - they are really cheap, and much more portable than the pads .&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="630" RevisionGUID="6aa9633c-5c05-4635-8365-49d27be79f33" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:04:46.283" UserId="531" Text="[Plex suggests a passmark score of &gt;2000][1], and suggests a core2duo at 2.4ghz as a minimum for a single 1080P stream.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I initially looked at the modern 'atom' architecture celerons but they're a bit too weak. If you *didn't* need realtime, 1080p transcoding they're excellent. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such at modern processors a dual core 'pentium' based off a 'core' architecture would be a great option. I'm sure someone would suggest an AMD equivalent, which would likely be price and maybe even performance competitive, but as is, intel makes more *efficient* processors, and well, I'm familiar with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets talk about *right now*. I tend to use the [falcon logical increments guides][2] as a starting point for a new build. There's a minimum build based off the intel [G3250][3], and that [exceeds the necessary passmark score][4]. Dual cores, and if you drop the add on GPU, the whole build is *under* 300 dollars.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For near future use, the [dual core, dual thread G3470][5] looks like a good option. Its based off skylake (so you can take advantage of all the lovely new features the newer board will have). There's no passmark score, but the previous generation processors of the class exceed it handily. While this is a 'next generation' part, for a line that's just trickling into retail, its worth considering this would be a future proof design, which you can upgrade to the next generation, and motherboards may support newfangled things like m.2 and DDR4 optionally. I'd actually have recommended a G3270, if it existed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.plex.tv/hc/en-us/articles/201774043-What-kind-of-CPU-do-I-need-for-my-Server-computer-&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/83538/Intel-Pentium-Processor-G3250-3M-Cache-3_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Pentium%20G3250%20%40%203.20GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ark.intel.com/products/87358/Intel-Pentium-Processor-G3470-3M-Cache-3_60-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="7220d810-c843-427d-a55b-aa040e11b943" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:17:51.043" UserId="147" Text="I have a digital camera with 1080p HDMI output and I want to use it as a high quality “webcam.” I am looking for a device which takes an HDMI video signal as input and outputs that signal over USB for usage on a computer as if it were a webcam." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="7220d810-c843-427d-a55b-aa040e11b943" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:17:51.043" UserId="147" Text="1080p HDMI to USB converter for computer video input" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="7220d810-c843-427d-a55b-aa040e11b943" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:17:51.043" UserId="147" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2301" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="2947d145-c06e-4011-8a67-58e8736655ac" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:31:48.543" UserId="147" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="I have a digital camera with HDMI output and I want to use it as a high quality “webcam.” I am looking for a device which takes a 1080p/60fps HDMI video signal as input and outputs that signal over USB for usage on a computer as if it were a webcam. It will need to be compatible with USB 3.0 or greater to accommodate the necessary bandwidth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2302" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="614" RevisionGUID="775c891f-0a5a-4ff8-86fc-d8894d7fb80a" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:44:01.980" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="632" RevisionGUID="dcab5352-53e3-4718-a300-3aa1f39bd9dd" CreationDate="2015-10-12T12:18:19.633" UserId="476" Text="The Seasonic Platinum series seems to be good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Seasonic site](http://www.seasonicusa.com/Platinum_Series_FL2.htm) says it has a 92% power efficiency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fanless, so it's super quiet. However, it is very expensive for a 400W PSU. However this seems to be one of the most efficient, if that is what you are looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="cdcd90c9-5bf6-42a9-b9e1-a3c795c43902" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:22:57.027" UserId="57" Text="I have a Galaxy Tab 4, 10.1 inch tablet that is in need of a case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a [case](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA17P26Z0738) that is similar to one I had on my Asus Transformer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard cover folds over the screen&#xD;&#xA; - Opens in such a way that the cover can be completely behind the tablet, allowing me to hold the device flat or lay it flat on a tablet but have the screen accessible&#xD;&#xA; - Opens in such a way that it can stand up and the angle can be adjusted for better viewing. The previous one I had allowed 3 viewing angles&#xD;&#xA; - Camera (front and rear), volume controls, SD Card port, headphone port and power button must all be uncovered by the case&#xD;&#xA; - Charging port needs to be accessible without removing the case. I do not need it to be accessible when the case is closed. If I can charge it and leave it laying flat on the bookshelf, that is fine.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Budget for this case is under $50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2307" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="cdcd90c9-5bf6-42a9-b9e1-a3c795c43902" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:22:57.027" UserId="57" Text="Case for a Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 10.1 inch tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2308" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="cdcd90c9-5bf6-42a9-b9e1-a3c795c43902" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:22:57.027" UserId="57" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2309" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="0cce0f45-a202-4b12-abc4-21ecb3038d1d" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:23:53.563" UserId="60" Comment="removed tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2310" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="631" RevisionGUID="0cce0f45-a202-4b12-abc4-21ecb3038d1d" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:23:53.563" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 175" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2311" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="7f57334c-fb1c-4389-882c-108ebd0229e8" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:29:38.690" UserId="57" Comment="table not tablet" Text="I have a Galaxy Tab 4, 10.1 inch tablet that is in need of a case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a [case](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA17P26Z0738) that is similar to one I had on my Asus Transformer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard cover folds over the screen&#xD;&#xA; - Opens in such a way that the cover can be completely behind the tablet, allowing me to hold the device flat or lay it flat on a table but have the screen accessible&#xD;&#xA; - Opens in such a way that it can stand up and the angle can be adjusted for better viewing. The previous one I had allowed 3 viewing angles&#xD;&#xA; - Camera (front and rear), volume controls, SD Card port, headphone port and power button must all be uncovered by the case&#xD;&#xA; - Charging port needs to be accessible without removing the case. I do not need it to be accessible when the case is closed. If I can charge it and leave it laying flat on the bookshelf, that is fine.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Budget for this case is under $50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="634" RevisionGUID="93e5b01a-5cc0-46a1-b573-2c979a6a71fa" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:41:06.287" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="635" RevisionGUID="ac4d2500-42cb-4c2c-99a2-bc29ff4e5264" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:41:06.287" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="636" RevisionGUID="492ec165-479e-4904-a758-d7cc41eb5c8d" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:42:17.457" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="637" RevisionGUID="8265244b-935d-4a3f-9334-4a1749c71ba2" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:42:17.457" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2316" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="638" RevisionGUID="d436819d-00ed-4c26-af96-f284650d37fa" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:45:26.740" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="639" RevisionGUID="17f97fd2-c34d-4a61-9c08-2a0e1cc47c40" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:45:26.740" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="640" RevisionGUID="16bc7a25-ad80-4055-af7f-9851501a3292" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:48:06.863" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2319" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="641" RevisionGUID="15fb6b05-e07b-42ef-8d6f-1a5a2b8269a1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:48:06.863" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="397" RevisionGUID="745488d1-d072-42ae-9ab2-34a8d4f25a73" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:40:39.723" UserId="60" Comment="Product has been released." Text="If you are willing to wait, you could get the [Logitech Z333 Multimedia Speakers](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/multimedia-speakers-z333?crid=1589). As this hasn't been released yet, I can only go off of the spec sheet and online reviews, but this looks like it would fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a 2.1 speaker system that costs $80 USD. The subwoofer is flat-bottomed, has its own independent controller, and has a 5 inch, front facing driver. The sub is rated at 23 Watts while the two satellites are rated at 8 Watts each. While the website doesn't say exactly how big the drivers are for the satellites, the width of the satellites is about 4.25 inches, so I would expect the drivers are in the range of 2.5 - 3.5 inches in diameter. There are four 5 foot cables for this system (plus input cables): one for the power (wall to sub), one for each satellite (sub to satellite), and one volume controller (controller to sub).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This system has both a 3.5 mm auxiliary input and stereo RCA inputs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With about half of your budget left, you add a [Bluetooth Audio Adapter](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/bluetooth-audio-adapter?WT.ac=ps|11380|bluetoothaudioadapter-CTA1) for $40 that allows you to stream music from any Bluetooth enabled audio device. With both of these items, you are still below your $150 budget (excluding shipping).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This appears to have been released. If ordered from Logitech's website, you will get free standard shipping (4-7 business days) on this as the total cost is over $49." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="642" RevisionGUID="43f6a54d-ae31-4b21-b882-3e6e22a78f1c" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:52:05.240" UserId="57" Text="I have an old [Targus carrying case](http://targus.com/us/meridian-ii-toploading-laptop-case-tst031us) that was gifted by my employer a long time ago. It's decent, but bulky. I'm looking for a case that can hold a 15 inch laptop, plus a few additional things (safety glasses, a notebook, a few writing instruments) and isn't big, bulky and heavy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can hold a laptop (15 inch) plus charger&#xD;&#xA; - Can hold a wireless mouse &#xD;&#xA; - Can hold a small fold up umbrella&#xD;&#xA; - Can hold safety glasses, a notebook, pens/pencils&#xD;&#xA; - Provides basic protection against being tossed into a passenger seat in a vehicle &#xD;&#xA; - Is not bulky. My current bag is 7-8 inches wide. This is too bulky.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Budget for this approximately $50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2322" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="642" RevisionGUID="43f6a54d-ae31-4b21-b882-3e6e22a78f1c" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:52:05.240" UserId="57" Text="Laptop carrying case for 15 inch laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2323" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="642" RevisionGUID="43f6a54d-ae31-4b21-b882-3e6e22a78f1c" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:52:05.240" UserId="57" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="da285659-fa26-49d7-9a32-f4c836c76c16" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:38:01.623" UserId="547" Text="Currently I have a desktop running windows 10 with the following parts  [seen here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to do is make some improvements for 'future-proofing', and make some other minor upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently this is used for software development (running VMs, VS2015, eclipse), some rendering (Blender whenever I have the time to work on it), as well as some games (mostly MMORPGs, occasionally Skyrim, Kerbal Space Program, Civ V, with potentially Fallout 4 being added in).  A future use case will be more photo and video processing, as my wife wants to be able to use Photoshop and other editing tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to is change the video card and put in a 9XX series graphics card in there (I'm sticking to NVIDIA for CUDA work), and maxxing out the RAM to be 32GB (which is the maximum that motherboard can support).  Are there any other improvements I could take, or is what I have good enough for my current use, and changing anything would be a waste of money?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Ldvcpg " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="da285659-fa26-49d7-9a32-f4c836c76c16" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:38:01.623" UserId="547" Text="Potential upgrade suggestions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="da285659-fa26-49d7-9a32-f4c836c76c16" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:38:01.623" UserId="547" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="645" RevisionGUID="e83333eb-7959-4f51-b875-ecb81547cff3" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:56:19.203" UserId="241" Text="My current graphics card is a Radeon HD 5770, and is by far the loudest part of my computer.  I'm looking for something quieter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As quiet as possible, though I'm uncertain if my case's airflow permits passive cooling.&#xD;&#xA;* Compatible with the opensource ATI Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA;* No less powerful than my current card.&#xD;&#xA;* Power draw of 100W or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a price limitation.  I figure that any card outside my price range will also be outside the power limit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2329" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="645" RevisionGUID="e83333eb-7959-4f51-b875-ecb81547cff3" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:56:19.203" UserId="241" Text="Quiet ATI graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2330" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="645" RevisionGUID="e83333eb-7959-4f51-b875-ecb81547cff3" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:56:19.203" UserId="241" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2333" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="847c10e5-c413-481f-89aa-e2e698f2e992" CreationDate="2015-10-13T05:02:01.180" UserId="-1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2334" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="becae3b6-0b66-4f8b-ae33-8ebe9fa82ffb" CreationDate="2015-10-13T06:01:02.023" UserId="547" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="Currently I have a desktop running windows 10 with the following parts  [seen here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to do is make some improvements for 'future-proofing', and make some other minor upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently this is used for software development (running VMs, VS2015, eclipse), some rendering (Blender whenever I have the time to work on it), as well as some games (mostly MMORPGs, occasionally Skyrim, Kerbal Space Program, Civ V, with potentially Fallout 4 being added in).  A future use case will be more photo and video processing, as my wife wants to be able to use Photoshop and other editing tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to is change the video card and put in a 9XX series graphics card in there (I'm sticking to NVIDIA for CUDA work), and maxxing out the RAM to be 32GB (which is the maximum that motherboard can support). Given my use cases, would I gain more value simply upgrading the video card, and leaving the memory the same, or should I upgrade both? (Note: already have an SSD, just concerned about the components I've mentioned in the scope of the question)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Ldvcpg " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="647" RevisionGUID="b4f67f3c-a13b-4da6-af04-4d296eb6011b" CreationDate="2015-10-13T12:36:34.447" UserId="554" Text="I suspect what you will need here is a 'virtual webcam' - i.e. it's not just a media (socket) converter you need here, but a 'box' which the computer, via USB, detects as a webcam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider a normal webcam - it contains a small camera and a set of circuits which get that video from the camera to the computer. The computer recognises these circuits as 'a webcam' and, via appropriate drivers, then knows what to do with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are looking for is for your digital camera to act as a Webcam. Unless it has this functionality built in (in which case it would have some sort of USB interface and appropriate software/drivers to suit) then you need the actual 'webcam' (set of circuits I described above) to sit in between your camera and your computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, effectively, what you need is a 'webcam' (set of circuits) which instead of taking its picture from a small, on-board camera, takes its picture from an HDMI input socket. The rest of the circuitry, after that point, would be the same as any standard webcam - and the computer would see it as a webcam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This type of functionality may be more likely to exist as some sort of USB video capture card, rather than an HDMI to USB converter, as most 'HDMI to USB' adapters will be intended for **output** rather than **input** - i.e. connecting an external HDMI monitor to a computer by USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If such a device exists, I suspect it will cost more than a decent HD webcam. Unless the camera you want to use is 'professional grade', i.e. priced at thousands of pounds/dollars, I suspect you will be better off with a decent, modern webcam. I've personal experience with the Logitech series - we use several models in the £50-£200 mark in our offices for video conferencing. They also do wide angle models if required. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="648" RevisionGUID="166abcd8-6aae-44a0-8171-423e93269ea1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T13:04:45.057" UserId="203" Text="Since you mentioned EU 230V, I've tried to source from EU suppliers. The first OEM that sprang to mind was Seasonic. Indeed, there's the [Seasonic X-400 Fanless 400W][1], 121 euros at Amazon.de. There's also the Titanium rated AX 1500i, but that's *less* efficent and way too costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, monetarily, is it really worth it? Even a good quality PSU is unlikely to be used for more than 10 years. Let's round that up and assume it's on 24/7 for 88 thousand hours. A 80+ Gold unit is typically [significantly cheaper][2] than a Platinum unit of similar rating. For a [one percent][3] difference [in efficiency][4], that's about 264 kWh. It depends on your electricity price, but in most places, you won't even recoup your investment, and even if you do, you'd be better off buying a high-yield bond.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for cost, I'm going to recommend a 80+ Gold unit, [the 350W Super Flower SF-350P14XE Golden Green][2]. Or, if you live in another country, something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B003ZWQXUQ/?tag=pcp05-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00H2ZQ6N6/?tag=pcp05-21&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1307-page3.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;op=Story2&amp;reid=200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="ef0d665d-2cf4-4b15-81a9-63b2b3021104" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:08:35.913" UserId="57" Comment="Brings part list into the question" Text="Currently I have a desktop running windows 10 with the following parts  [seen here][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU 	        Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard 	ASRock X79 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;    Memory 	        Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory&#xD;&#xA;                    Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory&#xD;&#xA;    Video Card 	    EVGA GeForce GTX 760 4GB Dual FTW ACX Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to do is make some improvements for 'future-proofing', and make some other minor upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently this is used for software development (running VMs, VS2015, eclipse), some rendering (Blender whenever I have the time to work on it), as well as some games (mostly MMORPGs, occasionally Skyrim, Kerbal Space Program, Civ V, with potentially Fallout 4 being added in).  A future use case will be more photo and video processing, as my wife wants to be able to use Photoshop and other editing tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to is change the video card and put in a 9XX series graphics card in there (I'm sticking to NVIDIA for CUDA work), and maxxing out the RAM to be 32GB (which is the maximum that motherboard can support). Given my use cases, would I gain more value simply upgrading the video card, and leaving the memory the same, or should I upgrade both? (Note: already have an SSD, just concerned about the components I've mentioned in the scope of the question)&#xD;&#xA;				&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Ldvcpg " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2345" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="620" RevisionGUID="9d6b29cf-c5fd-43cf-9f11-a6f7d87f35fb" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:37:49.750" UserId="-1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="649" RevisionGUID="09e15270-0b5d-416d-8afe-8a3e50717347" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:43:04.137" UserId="54" Text="Note: I've seen [this][1] thread but my expectations are a little bit more specific. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to ask you about headphones which may filter the noise a way better than stoppers (ear plugs):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - highly effective noise-canceling&#xD;&#xA; - comfy earpads (very important)&#xD;&#xA; - no integrated microphone&#xD;&#xA; - full-size (fully cover the ear)&#xD;&#xA; - audio quality is not that important&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper than $350&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considered as a plus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a possibility to swivel the earpads vertically and laterally &#xD;&#xA; - detachable headphone cord&#xD;&#xA; - rechargeable  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/286/headphones-for-filtering-out-noise-in-an-open-space-office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2347" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="649" RevisionGUID="09e15270-0b5d-416d-8afe-8a3e50717347" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:43:04.137" UserId="54" Text="Noise-canceling headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2348" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="649" RevisionGUID="09e15270-0b5d-416d-8afe-8a3e50717347" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:43:04.137" UserId="54" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="650" RevisionGUID="759ce494-48d6-4950-a2f5-1af427de292b" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:46:44.273" UserId="122" Text="With every new generation of cards, there will inevitably be a bump to the best available fanless cards (which is as good as it gets in terms of quietness), though it will tend to lag by 6-12 months.  Therefore, generally I would recommend looking for the best options available to you while filtering on fanless cooling, or take a look at the active-but-quiet options on a site like [QuietPC][1].  When you start to whittle things down, be mindful of the release date of the card and do a little due diligence to see when there might be a new passive/quiet bump coming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, because I have not been in the market for a quiet GPU for a while, I can't currently make a hands-on recommendation. However, with that said, based on your listed requirements, currently the [Sapphire AMD R7 250 Ultimate Fanless][2] would seem to be a good candidate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![AMD R7 250 Ultimate Fanless][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TDP of the R7 250 is listed at 65W which is less than the 5770, so you should be fine in terms of power.  Of course, you will need to make sure you have some air flow in your case and enough space for that monster heat sink.  How much you need will depend on usage, ambient temperature etc. so it is hard to definitively say you will be OK - sometimes the only way to tell is to try.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, I would not discount the Nvidia options - they have great Linux support in terms of drivers, and (like CPUs) the GPUs can often have very different thermal profiles.  That means that you may be able to get a much better bang for your buck from one manufacturer over the other in terms of quiet operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.quietpc.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/zardon/sapphire-r7-250-ultimate-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpq2v.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="388" RevisionGUID="b1e59021-cd6f-43fe-8bc5-aa23f5b8691c" CreationDate="2015-10-13T17:35:15.767" UserId="57" Comment="Focused question on recommendation " Text="I have an opportunity to buy a used [Dell T5400][1] for a very reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     CPU: Xeon E5420&#xD;&#xA;     Clock: 2500 Mhz&#xD;&#xA;     Cores: 4 - Quad Core&#xD;&#xA;     RAM: 4GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;     Disk: 250GB&#xD;&#xA;     GPU: nVidia Quadro NVS DMS-&gt;2x DVI&#xD;&#xA;     OS: Windows 8.1 Professional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously this is a work computer. The gfx card is really not fit for gaming (I have the very same model at work, just with 20GB of RAM, tried running some games and the framerate is abysmal). Most likely I'd purchase more RAM, and moving disks from the old computer I'd have some 1.5TB of storage. But the primary decision for now is the gfx card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget for the gfx card is around $250-$300. The primary use would be games, with some graphics editing, programming and home use on the side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which gfx card that fits that model, that would fit within the budget would provide optimal gaming performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/dfb/p/precision-t5400/pd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2356" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="1d371533-639a-44de-a05d-8b7892b46bdb" CreationDate="2015-10-13T22:38:38.097" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="652" RevisionGUID="78ec0550-bfe6-4580-aff9-66aecde9d2e3" CreationDate="2015-10-13T22:58:34.570" UserId="476" Text="Adding more RAM might possibly help with your VM's. You should check task manager when running them to see if you are using most of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When gaming, more RAM won't help. You'd need to be running two games, skype and a couplem browser tabs to get close to using all that RAM while you're gaming. Your GPU, on the other hand, is a different story. Upgrading to an   R9 390 ($330), or a GTX 980 Ti ($650), would massively boost your performance. Depending on your price range, the GPUs I listed would be a massive upgrade to your current GPU, for blender (when GPU accelerated), and games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also recommend using your old 760 as a PhysX card, especially if you actually play a game that supports PhysX. You could also just use it as a booster for Blender, as Blender supports rendering across heterogeneous GPUS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="653" RevisionGUID="60f08af6-1a5d-4730-bfc6-b5d0d778167a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:16:32.203" UserId="559" Text="I am looking for a new laptop mostly for programming(work) but also for college and other educational purposes.&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have a budget of $650, although I am willing to wait, save up, and spend a total of $800 if necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphical considerations: I will want to learn OpenGL, DirectX, WebGL, and possibly [Vulkan][1] when it is available.&#xD;&#xA;I will also be playing some RTSs like 0AD, and RPGs like KOTOR in my free time.&#xD;&#xA;As I will be attending college, I expect I will need it to play high-quality videos without too much difficulty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS cosiderations: I want to try Linux From Scratch in a VM.&#xD;&#xA;I also want to be able to dual-boot a desktop flavor of linux with windows.&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer it to come with Windows 8 with as little ODM-provided junk as possible so I can try Windows 10 but downgrade/rollback if I do not approve. I need at least Windows 8 or later to develop so-called &quot;universal&quot; windows apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In all, here are some of the requirements I have, in order from most important to least important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable keyboard (won't fall apart) - I don't want to randomly lose my semicolon key again!&#xD;&#xA; - Battery good enough to last a possible one-hour bus ride without falling into the critical 20% zone&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics that supports &quot;OpenGL 4.X and up&quot; (requirement for [Vulkan][2])&#xD;&#xA; - High-capacity hard drive, at least 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - wifi&#xD;&#xA; - SD card reader - bonus for multiple SD card readers&#xD;&#xA; - all hardware is Linux-compatible and runs as smoothly on Linux as on Windows&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - a trackpoint mouse - I find them more useful than track pads when I am typing something up&#xD;&#xA; - DVD RW drive for installing any operating system from disc and watching DVDs &#xD;&#xA; - An option to boot from a live SD card or flash drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not know what CPU would be recommended or how much RAM I will need. I'll leave it up to recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to be able to upgrade my ram if I find that I am using more than 90% of it on a regular basis.&#xD;&#xA;Work-arounds for some of these requirements also appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://www.khronos.org/vulkan&#xD;&#xA;[2]:https://www.khronos.org/assets/uploads/developers/library/overview/vulkan-overview.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2359" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="653" RevisionGUID="60f08af6-1a5d-4730-bfc6-b5d0d778167a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:16:32.203" UserId="559" Text="What is a good laptop for programming and student work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2360" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="653" RevisionGUID="60f08af6-1a5d-4730-bfc6-b5d0d778167a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:16:32.203" UserId="559" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="654" RevisionGUID="0871c384-d07e-4973-a6b8-b43e31e14b09" CreationDate="2015-10-14T02:00:32.747" UserId="82" Text="First off, I doubt any active noise reduction (ANR) is going to beat out good passive noise reduction (PNR) in-ear plugs (&quot;stoppers&quot;).  ANR headphones will be more comfortable than PNR and may provide better overall noise reduction for part of the audio spectrum, but not for all of it.  If you really need a replacement for a good set of in-ear plugs, you might end up disappointed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation are Bose headphones.  I've owned a few of their ANR products* and have used a few competitor products, though not at the consumer level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can recommend the [Bose QC15 headphones][1] but they are discontinued (but still available) and the current model is the [QC25 headphone][2].  They have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- great ANR qualities &#xD;&#xA;- comfortable to wear all day&#xD;&#xA;- no microphone&#xD;&#xA;- are the around-the-ear variant of the headphones that completely cover the ear&#xD;&#xA;- headphone audio is great&#xD;&#xA;- $299&#xD;&#xA;- ear pads rotate up-down and side-to-side (to the point they can lay flat)&#xD;&#xA;- the headphone cord is detachable so they can be *just* noise cancelling with no audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are not rechargeable, but (the QC15) takes a single AAA battery and you can use rechargeable in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* I have extensive experience with the Bose QC2, Bose QC15, Bose X, Lightspeed Sierra, and Lightspeed Zulu.  The first two are the same headsets in subsequent produce cycles and the QC25 is the next iteration of those headphones.  I don't have direct experience with the QC25, but I don't have any reason to doubt it.  I can attest to the QC15 being a great product.  The last 3 headsets listed are aviation ANR headsets which I have used in high-noise environments (slow twin propeller and fast twin turbojet airplanes).  I'd be happy wearing the QC15 in those environments and they perform well against those $500-$1000 aviation headsets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Bose-QuietComfort-Cancelling-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0054JJ0QW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1NEUKK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B0054JJ0QW&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=13HVRRNW32YAYPC8S035" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2367" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="8c1f86ca-1c80-429b-8d9f-52279e62bb71" CreationDate="2015-10-14T03:05:26.143" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2368" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="649" RevisionGUID="8fc8d9ae-bcbe-4fc2-a14b-2f63f134c07d" CreationDate="2015-10-14T07:53:28.117" UserId="54" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="Note: I've seen [this][1] thread but my expectations are a little bit more specific. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to ask you about headphones which may filter the noise a way better than stoppers (ear plugs):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - highly effective noise-canceling&#xD;&#xA; - comfy earpads (very important)&#xD;&#xA; - no integrated microphone&#xD;&#xA; - full-size (fully cover the ear)&#xD;&#xA; - audio quality is not that important&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper than $350&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considered as a plus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a possibility to swivel the earpads vertically and laterally &#xD;&#xA; - detachable headphone cord (being able to cancel the noise without the audio)&#xD;&#xA; - rechargeable &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/286/headphones-for-filtering-out-noise-in-an-open-space-office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="655" RevisionGUID="5eca5a51-8157-423e-b7de-4ca35ff04a29" CreationDate="2015-10-14T09:59:28.137" UserId="560" Text="I'm looking to buy a new laptop where performance isn't of a large consideration provided the internals are of the current or last gen (as of 2015). As such, I'd like to go for fanless laptops that are trickling in here and there. I've heard of Intel systems, but would prefer AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. If you've enough reputation would you be so kind to create and tag this question with [tag:fanless]." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2370" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="655" RevisionGUID="5eca5a51-8157-423e-b7de-4ca35ff04a29" CreationDate="2015-10-14T09:59:28.137" UserId="560" Text="Fanless laptop, preferably AMD APU-powered" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2371" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="655" RevisionGUID="5eca5a51-8157-423e-b7de-4ca35ff04a29" CreationDate="2015-10-14T09:59:28.137" UserId="560" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2372" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="656" RevisionGUID="f498b2b3-2a10-4c6c-ba3a-e09a4845b6eb" CreationDate="2015-10-14T10:51:50.527" UserId="476" Text="The Dell XPS 13. 13 inch screen in an 11 inch form factor, up to 18 hours of battery life, OpenGL 4.4 support, powerful integrated graphics. 165 ppi screen at minimum configuration, and a free 12 month security software subscription (please don't renew it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes in an ultra thin form factor of 0.3&quot; to 0.6&quot; depending on your configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Starting at $800:&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 13](http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: One problem: the ssd is 128GB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2374" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="655" RevisionGUID="af0942f2-afaa-4585-9d02-b4984700478a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T12:02:26.900" UserId="57" Comment="Adds tag" Text="I'm looking to buy a new laptop where performance isn't of a large consideration provided the internals are of the current or last gen (as of 2015). As such, I'd like to go for fanless laptops that are trickling in here and there. I've heard of Intel systems, but would prefer AMD.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2375" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="655" RevisionGUID="af0942f2-afaa-4585-9d02-b4984700478a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T12:02:26.900" UserId="57" Comment="Adds tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="609" RevisionGUID="8a413c07-6a03-41e9-9173-092256b0789a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T17:52:34.887" UserId="518" Comment="Expand" Text="For a &lt;del&gt;quick&lt;/del&gt; search I went to the good old [80plus.org](http://80plus.org). It turns out that there is no titanium certified yet &lt;s&gt;and the platinum certified PSU are much bigger than needed (2000 W even), so I can only look at gold ones&lt;/s&gt;. My mistake, I neglected the first tab with ~5000 products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now it seems the best at 100 W consumption are (those under 92 % &lt;del&gt;struck&lt;/del&gt;), among the ATX at 500 W max or less and sorted by average:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [CFD KRPW-TI500W/94+](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CFD%20SALES%20INC._KRPW-TI500W%2094_500W_ECOS%203999.1_Report.pdf) or Enhance ATX-1850: 93.89% (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 93.47%);&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell L240EPM-00](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DELL%20INC._L240EPM-00_240W_EU-098_Report.pdf): 92 % ([SFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor), max 240 W, average 92.45 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [Fujitsu S26113-E613-V70-](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/FUJITSU%20TECHNOLOGY%20SOLUTIONS%20GMBH_S26113-E613-V70-_250W_ECOS%203622_Report.pdf): ~93 % (actually at 127 W; ATX12V, max 250 W, average 92.41 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Sea Sonic SS-460FL](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SEA%20SONIC%20ELECTRONICS%20CO.,%20LTD._SS-460FL%5E2_460W_ECOS%203320_Report.pdf) or XTS 460&#xD;&#xA;or LDLC-460FLP: 91 % (ATX12V, max 460 W, average 92.01 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dirac DIR-TCAXP-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DIRAC_DIR-TCAXP-500_500W_ECOS%203784.1_Report.pdf): 92.32 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.64 %);&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Chengdu G500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CHENGDU%20YU%20QING%20XUAN%20ZHILIAN%20TECHNOLOGY%20CO.LTD_G500_500W_EU-032_Report.pdf): 91.48 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.89 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[HKC T-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HKC%20OVERSEAS%20LIMITED_T-500_500W_EU-078_Report.pdf): 90.77 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.67 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Sparkle Power SPI450ACAP](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SPARKLE%20POWER_SPI450ACAP_ECOS%202686.1_450W_Report.pdf) or PT-450M or FSP450-60ETN: ~92 % (ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.32 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Avnet ADEPAD0300I-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/AVNET_ADEPAD0300I-01_ECOS%203203%20_300W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (ATX12V, max 300 W, average 91.31 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [HP D12-240P2A](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HEWLETT-PACKARD_D12-240P2A_240W_ECOS%203384_Report.pdf): ~94 % (actually at 120 W; ATX12V, max 240 W, average 91.18 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Antec EA-450 Platinum](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ANTEC_EA-450%20PLATINUM_ECOS%202882_450W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (actually at 90 W; ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.18 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Tiger Power TG12-0250-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/TIGER%20POWER_TG12-0250-01_250W_ECOS%203430_Report.pdf): ~92 % (ATX12V, max 250 W, average 91.17 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Scythe SPTRP-500(P)(N)](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SCYTHE_SPTRP-500(P)(N)_ECOS%202797.1_500W_Report.pdf) or HPA-500PT-F14S (C): 90.47 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.06 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Enermax EPM500AWT](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ENERMAX%20TECHNOLOGY%20CORP._EPM500AWT_ECOS%202916_500W_Report.pdf): 90.65 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 90.94 %)&lt;/del&gt;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bolded those which were relatively easy to find. Some close relatives of the Sparkle and Tiger can be found at 80 $ or less; the others are typically around 100-120 $. The Enermax seems definitely not worth its price compared to the Antec and Sea Sonic, but it depends a lot on where you are. Findind the OEM ones would be the real success...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo also had some great results but these were with custom format factors. (Also some great results at 1U and 2U form factors: glad to see server farms are now paying attention, but off topic here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 92 % efficiency at 50 % power, of those with capacity up to 300 W: D12-240P2A; S26113-E613-V70-; CPB09-045C; D14-200P1A; D13-280P2A; DPS-300ADV; F180EPS-00; PS-4201-1HA; HKF1802-3A; F240EPM-00; IFX90ATX300W; PS-4281-1HA; TG12-0250-01; ADEPAD0300I-01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 90 % efficiency at 20 % power, of those with capacity between 301 W and 500 W: KRPW-TI500W/94+; ATX-1850; FSP400-60AGTAA; PCC005-020H2; PCE009; DIR-TCAXP-500; KRPW-PT500W/92+ REV2.0; ATX-1350; PS-5401-1HA; FSP500-70ETN; PT-450M; SPI450ACAP; FSP450-60ETN; IP-P400IQ3-2; DPS-320QB A; DPS-320QB B; FSP400-60ETN; GW-6000(92+); EA-450 Platinum; FSP500-70AAPB; XTS 460; LDLC-460FLP; SS-460FL2; DPS-500AB-5 X; FSP400-40AGPAA; GPG400V; FSP450-60PTM; PCC005; EPM500AWT; SS-400FL2; X7 500; FSP500-50FSPT; XPSQ-450.R4; SPTRP-500(P)(N); HPA-500PT-F14S (C); IP-P500IQ3-2; GW-ATX400(92+); DPS-320RB A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="609" RevisionGUID="7e1ae188-3a85-4d95-976b-088d7554e26a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T17:57:35.020" UserId="518" Comment="Expand; forgot two" Text="For a &lt;del&gt;quick&lt;/del&gt; search I went to the good old [80plus.org](http://80plus.org). It turns out that there is no titanium certified yet &lt;s&gt;and the platinum certified PSU are much bigger than needed (2000 W even), so I can only look at gold ones&lt;/s&gt;. My mistake, I neglected the first tab with ~5000 products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now it seems the best at 100 W consumption are (those under 92 % &lt;del&gt;struck&lt;/del&gt;), among the ATX at 500 W max or less and sorted by average:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [CFD KRPW-TI500W/94+](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CFD%20SALES%20INC._KRPW-TI500W%2094_500W_ECOS%203999.1_Report.pdf) or Enhance ATX-1850: 93.89% (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 93.47%);&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell L240EPM-00](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DELL%20INC._L240EPM-00_240W_EU-098_Report.pdf): 92 % ([SFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor), max 240 W, average 92.45 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [Fujitsu S26113-E613-V70-](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/FUJITSU%20TECHNOLOGY%20SOLUTIONS%20GMBH_S26113-E613-V70-_250W_ECOS%203622_Report.pdf): ~93 % (actually at 127 W; ATX12V, max 250 W, average 92.41 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Sea Sonic SS-460FL](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SEA%20SONIC%20ELECTRONICS%20CO.,%20LTD._SS-460FL%5E2_460W_ECOS%203320_Report.pdf) or XTS 460&#xD;&#xA;or LDLC-460FLP: 91 % (ATX12V, max 460 W, average 92.01 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dirac DIR-TCAXP-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DIRAC_DIR-TCAXP-500_500W_ECOS%203784.1_Report.pdf): 92.32 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.64 %);&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Chengdu G500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CHENGDU%20YU%20QING%20XUAN%20ZHILIAN%20TECHNOLOGY%20CO.LTD_G500_500W_EU-032_Report.pdf): 91.48 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.89 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[HKC T-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HKC%20OVERSEAS%20LIMITED_T-500_500W_EU-078_Report.pdf): 90.77 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.67 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Sparkle Power SPI450ACAP](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SPARKLE%20POWER_SPI450ACAP_ECOS%202686.1_450W_Report.pdf) or PT-450M or FSP450-60ETN: ~92 % (ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.32 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Avnet ADEPAD0300I-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/AVNET_ADEPAD0300I-01_ECOS%203203%20_300W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (ATX12V, max 300 W, average 91.31 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* [HP D12-240P2A](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HEWLETT-PACKARD_D12-240P2A_240W_ECOS%203384_Report.pdf): ~94 % (actually at 120 W; ATX12V, max 240 W, average 91.18 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Antec EA-450 Platinum](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ANTEC_EA-450%20PLATINUM_ECOS%202882_450W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (actually at 90 W; ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.18 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Tiger Power TG12-0250-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/TIGER%20POWER_TG12-0250-01_250W_ECOS%203430_Report.pdf): ~92 % (ATX12V, max 250 W, average 91.17 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Scythe SPTRP-500(P)(N)](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SCYTHE_SPTRP-500(P)(N)_ECOS%202797.1_500W_Report.pdf) or HPA-500PT-F14S (C): 90.47 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.06 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Enermax EPM500AWT](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ENERMAX%20TECHNOLOGY%20CORP._EPM500AWT_ECOS%202916_500W_Report.pdf): 90.65 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 90.94 %)&lt;/del&gt;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bolded those which were relatively easy to find. Some close relatives of the Sparkle and Tiger can be found at 80 $ or less; the others are typically around 100-120 $. The Enermax seems definitely not worth its price compared to the Antec and Sea Sonic, but it depends a lot on where you are. Findind the OEM ones would be the real success...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo also had some great results but these were with custom format factors. (Also some great results at 1U and 2U form factors: glad to see server farms are now paying attention, but off topic here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 92 % efficiency at 50 % power, of those with capacity up to 300 W: D12-240P2A; S26113-E613-V70-; CPB09-045C; D14-200P1A; D13-280P2A; DPS-300ADV; F180EPS-00; PS-4201-1HA; HKF1802-3A; F240EPM-00; IFX90ATX300W; PS-4281-1HA; TG12-0250-01; ADEPAD0300I-01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 90 % efficiency at 20 % power, of those with capacity between 301 W and 500 W: KRPW-TI500W/94+; ATX-1850; FSP400-60AGTAA; PCC005-020H2; PCE009; DIR-TCAXP-500; KRPW-PT500W/92+ REV2.0; ATX-1350; PS-5401-1HA; FSP500-70ETN; PT-450M; SPI450ACAP; FSP450-60ETN; IP-P400IQ3-2; DPS-320QB A; DPS-320QB B; FSP400-60ETN; GW-6000(92+); EA-450 Platinum; FSP500-70AAPB; XTS 460; LDLC-460FLP; SS-460FL2; DPS-500AB-5 X; FSP400-40AGPAA; GPG400V; FSP450-60PTM; PCC005; EPM500AWT; SS-400FL2; X7 500; FSP500-50FSPT; XPSQ-450.R4; SPTRP-500(P)(N); HPA-500PT-F14S (C); IP-P500IQ3-2; GW-ATX400(92+); DPS-320RB A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2387" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="605" RevisionGUID="90d28fef-f6aa-4b5b-93a5-376f0c91f66b" CreationDate="2015-10-14T18:20:21.197" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2388" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="c4359a1a-0f24-4db2-945a-aef3461d0eb5" CreationDate="2015-10-14T18:29:16.493" UserId="565" Text="I bought a lot of silent mouses, but all of them kept failing after max 1/2 a Year. So the best one I had so far was a &quot;Hama Mirano&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any better one out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2389" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="c4359a1a-0f24-4db2-945a-aef3461d0eb5" CreationDate="2015-10-14T18:29:16.493" UserId="565" Text="A mouse with near silent clicking noise with good build quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2390" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="c4359a1a-0f24-4db2-945a-aef3461d0eb5" CreationDate="2015-10-14T18:29:16.493" UserId="565" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="660" RevisionGUID="ca618ce1-8e48-4754-9f23-4f4bb37aee9d" CreationDate="2015-10-14T18:52:35.937" UserId="54" Text="The choice isn't very wide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using **Hama Roma** and it broke down after two months. After this time it was really hard to use the left button. The mouse was missing almost every click...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[JSCO Noiseless USB Optical Mouse][1] is quite popular. It has a lot of reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important part ([source][2]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ask yourself &quot;What are you looking for?&quot; If you answer a specific need&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to have a quiet mouse to use when you actually need a quiet mouse&#xD;&#xA;&gt; (I.E. late nights, libraries, class) and have a normal mouse to use&#xD;&#xA;&gt; during all other applications. Then maybe you can splurge and get&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this. But if your a gamer, playing a high intensity clicking game like&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LoL or DoTA then either this mouse is not for you or you can expect&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this mouse to last only months&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; This [thread][3] may be helpful also: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;This is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the mouse I have been using for years now. The first one lasted around&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4 years of intense gaming and I am using a second one now. I tried&#xD;&#xA;&gt; several other but this one seems the best. Pro : Clic feedback on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; finger, Nearly 0 sound (my gf doesn't complain anymore to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; clicking) Good balance although pretty light. Cheap. Found it at least&#xD;&#xA;&gt; twice quitier than the G400. Con : The wheel still makes a little bit&#xD;&#xA;&gt; of noise sometime, I solved it by adding oil to the mechanism. Not one&#xD;&#xA;&gt; of those very well branded mouse with tons of feature, it's a mouse, 5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; buttons, no macro and stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Nexus company has also several models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://nexustek.us/mice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Noiseless-Optical-Gaming-Computer-JNL-101K/dp/B0042T7TBS&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R293R1LHIXXN7S/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Diablo/comments/32rsk1/wife_hates_the_clicking_looking_for_a_quiet_mouse/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="609" RevisionGUID="ddb8c417-911e-487e-bfbb-e98b2aa32d0a" CreationDate="2015-10-14T19:24:58.373" UserId="518" Comment="typo fix" Text="For a &lt;del&gt;quick&lt;/del&gt; search I went to the good old [80plus.org](http://80plus.org). It turns out that there is no titanium certified yet &lt;s&gt;and the platinum certified PSU are much bigger than needed (2000 W even), so I can only look at gold ones&lt;/s&gt;. My mistake, I neglected the first tab with ~5000 products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now it seems the best at 100 W consumption are (those under 92 % &lt;del&gt;struck&lt;/del&gt;), among the ATX at 500 W max or less and sorted by average:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [CFD KRPW-TI500W/94+](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CFD%20SALES%20INC._KRPW-TI500W%2094_500W_ECOS%203999.1_Report.pdf) or Enhance ATX-1850: 93.89% (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 93.47%);&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell L240EPM-00](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DELL%20INC._L240EPM-00_240W_EU-098_Report.pdf): 92 % ([SFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor), max 240 W, average 92.45 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [Fujitsu S26113-E613-V70-](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/FUJITSU%20TECHNOLOGY%20SOLUTIONS%20GMBH_S26113-E613-V70-_250W_ECOS%203622_Report.pdf): ~93 % (actually at 127 W; ATX12V, max 250 W, average 92.41 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Sea Sonic SS-460FL](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SEA%20SONIC%20ELECTRONICS%20CO.,%20LTD._SS-460FL%5E2_460W_ECOS%203320_Report.pdf) or XTS 460&#xD;&#xA;or LDLC-460FLP: 91 % (ATX12V, max 460 W, average 92.01 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dirac DIR-TCAXP-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DIRAC_DIR-TCAXP-500_500W_ECOS%203784.1_Report.pdf): 92.32 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.64 %);&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Chengdu G500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CHENGDU%20YU%20QING%20XUAN%20ZHILIAN%20TECHNOLOGY%20CO.LTD_G500_500W_EU-032_Report.pdf): 91.48 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.89 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[HKC T-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HKC%20OVERSEAS%20LIMITED_T-500_500W_EU-078_Report.pdf): 90.77 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.67 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Sparkle Power SPI450ACAP](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SPARKLE%20POWER_SPI450ACAP_ECOS%202686.1_450W_Report.pdf) or PT-450M or FSP450-60ETN: ~92 % (ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.32 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Avnet ADEPAD0300I-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/AVNET_ADEPAD0300I-01_ECOS%203203%20_300W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (ATX12V, max 300 W, average 91.31 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* [HP D12-240P2A](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HEWLETT-PACKARD_D12-240P2A_240W_ECOS%203384_Report.pdf): ~94 % (actually at 120 W; ATX12V, max 240 W, average 91.18 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Antec EA-450 Platinum](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ANTEC_EA-450%20PLATINUM_ECOS%202882_450W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (actually at 90 W; ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.18 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Tiger Power TG12-0250-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/TIGER%20POWER_TG12-0250-01_250W_ECOS%203430_Report.pdf): ~92 % (ATX12V, max 250 W, average 91.17 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Scythe SPTRP-500(P)(N)](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SCYTHE_SPTRP-500(P)(N)_ECOS%202797.1_500W_Report.pdf) or HPA-500PT-F14S (C): 90.47 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.06 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Enermax EPM500AWT](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ENERMAX%20TECHNOLOGY%20CORP._EPM500AWT_ECOS%202916_500W_Report.pdf): 90.65 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 90.94 %)&lt;/del&gt;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bolded those which were relatively easy to find. Some close relatives of the Sparkle and Tiger can be found at 80 $ or less; the others are typically around 100-120 $. The Enermax seems definitely not worth its price compared to the Antec and Sea Sonic, but it depends a lot on where you are. Finding the OEM ones would be the real success...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo also had some great results but these were with custom format factors. (Also some great results at 1U and 2U form factors: glad to see server farms are now paying attention, but off topic here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 92 % efficiency at 50 % power, of those with capacity up to 300 W: D12-240P2A; S26113-E613-V70-; CPB09-045C; D14-200P1A; D13-280P2A; DPS-300ADV; F180EPS-00; PS-4201-1HA; HKF1802-3A; F240EPM-00; IFX90ATX300W; PS-4281-1HA; TG12-0250-01; ADEPAD0300I-01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 90 % efficiency at 20 % power, of those with capacity between 301 W and 500 W: KRPW-TI500W/94+; ATX-1850; FSP400-60AGTAA; PCC005-020H2; PCE009; DIR-TCAXP-500; KRPW-PT500W/92+ REV2.0; ATX-1350; PS-5401-1HA; FSP500-70ETN; PT-450M; SPI450ACAP; FSP450-60ETN; IP-P400IQ3-2; DPS-320QB A; DPS-320QB B; FSP400-60ETN; GW-6000(92+); EA-450 Platinum; FSP500-70AAPB; XTS 460; LDLC-460FLP; SS-460FL2; DPS-500AB-5 X; FSP400-40AGPAA; GPG400V; FSP450-60PTM; PCC005; EPM500AWT; SS-400FL2; X7 500; FSP500-50FSPT; XPSQ-450.R4; SPTRP-500(P)(N); HPA-500PT-F14S (C); IP-P500IQ3-2; GW-ATX400(92+); DPS-320RB A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="661" RevisionGUID="a63d068d-efb9-4303-a4e8-0249c7882f2e" CreationDate="2015-10-14T20:14:11.263" UserId="476" Text="This seems like a really cool product. Projects a laser keyboard and uses infrared to detect where your fingers are. You could actually fit it in your pocket. Only problem is the price, $90, which may be slightly over your price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can [buy it here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3PVNE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/CTX-VK200-Red-Projection-Keyboard/dp/B008D6IUG4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2399" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="662" RevisionGUID="0dd15f77-a21b-4d5f-870a-7d1a6d21e404" CreationDate="2015-10-14T23:48:50.520" UserId="531" Text="I don't see a price range (and its a little pricy) but the [microsoft universa1 foldable][1] keyboard meets many of your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Responsive keyboard. I.e. soft keys aren't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its chicklet style, and the same sort of switches as the MS surface typing keyboard. Tested has a [mini review][3] that suggests it has a decent amount of travel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Full/large sized. I have large hands, and I need to be able to touch type.&#xD;&#xA;80% full sized keys, though there's a split inbetween&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- That said, as small as possible. A standard desktop keyboard sized keyboard isn't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its flat but wide. It should fold up to a pretty small size &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numpad, F-keys etc, aren't needed. Just letters, number row, shift, space and enter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup 10keyless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional neat stuff? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It can pair with more than one device, and is compatible with the big 2 phone OSes, and windows and OS X. Not sure if its linux compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- water resistant &#xD;&#xA;- BT 4.0 based so you wouldn't need another dongle with many modern devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; RRP is ~99usd, tho you might be able to get it for ~70 usd according to tested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Microsoft-Universal-Foldable-Keyboard/productID.315201200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KHCU6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tested.com/tech/547374-show-and-tell-microsoft-universal-folding-keyboard/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="663" RevisionGUID="087b2e99-5409-48b8-b4bb-6edac4802ea9" CreationDate="2015-10-14T23:59:10.533" UserId="567" Text="Apple's Magic Mouse and Magic Trackpad are awesome, super silent: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.apple.com/de/magic-accessories/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless too and work already two years without failing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="662" RevisionGUID="ac1e5549-0514-4a87-94ca-7b48b5caca2b" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:02:15.513" UserId="531" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="I don't see a price range (and its a little pricy) but the [microsoft universa1 foldable][1] keyboard meets many of your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Responsive keyboard. I.e. soft keys aren't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its chicklet style, and the same sort of switches as the MS surface typing keyboard. Tested has a [mini review][3] that suggests it has a decent amount of travel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Full/large sized. I have large hands, and I need to be able to touch type.  &#xD;&#xA;80% full sized keys, though there's a split in between. Other than that, and the wider G-H keys, its pretty much a standard layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- That said, as small as possible. A standard desktop keyboard sized keyboard isn't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its flat but wide. It should fold up to a pretty small size &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numpad, F-keys etc, aren't needed. Just letters, number row, shift, space and enter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup 10keyless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional neat stuff? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It can pair with more than one device, and is compatible with the big 2 phone OSes, and windows and OS X. Not sure if its linux compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- water resistant &#xD;&#xA;- BT 4.0 based so you wouldn't need another dongle with many modern devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; RRP is ~99usd, tho you might be able to get it for ~70 usd according to tested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Microsoft-Universal-Foldable-Keyboard/productID.315201200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KHCU6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tested.com/tech/547374-show-and-tell-microsoft-universal-folding-keyboard/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="664" RevisionGUID="ba99fc83-7ffb-4101-baa3-a853bf975e3f" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:48:14.240" UserId="409" Text="I am looking for an Android tablet which has USB OTG webcam support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tablet should have the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Between 6 inches and 14 inches in screen size&#xD;&#xA;- Fanless&#xD;&#xA;- Cost less than $200 (negotiable)&#xD;&#xA;- Be fast enough to display 720p webcam input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some decent Android tablets that fit this set of features?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="664" RevisionGUID="ba99fc83-7ffb-4101-baa3-a853bf975e3f" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:48:14.240" UserId="409" Text="Cheap Android tablet with USB OTG webcam support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="664" RevisionGUID="ba99fc83-7ffb-4101-baa3-a853bf975e3f" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:48:14.240" UserId="409" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2411" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="662" RevisionGUID="21c21abf-6bc0-421c-9003-138e556a3d6a" CreationDate="2015-10-15T01:26:48.050" UserId="531" Comment="Rollback to [0dd15f77-a21b-4d5f-870a-7d1a6d21e404]" Text="I don't see a price range (and its a little pricy) but the [microsoft universa1 foldable][1] keyboard meets many of your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Responsive keyboard. I.e. soft keys aren't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its chicklet style, and the same sort of switches as the MS surface typing keyboard. Tested has a [mini review][3] that suggests it has a decent amount of travel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Full/large sized. I have large hands, and I need to be able to touch type.&#xD;&#xA;80% full sized keys, though there's a split inbetween&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- That said, as small as possible. A standard desktop keyboard sized keyboard isn't going to suit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its flat but wide. It should fold up to a pretty small size &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numpad, F-keys etc, aren't needed. Just letters, number row, shift, space and enter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup 10keyless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional neat stuff? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It can pair with more than one device, and is compatible with the big 2 phone OSes, and windows and OS X. Not sure if its linux compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- water resistant &#xD;&#xA;- BT 4.0 based so you wouldn't need another dongle with many modern devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; RRP is ~99usd, tho you might be able to get it for ~70 usd according to tested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Microsoft-Universal-Foldable-Keyboard/productID.315201200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KHCU6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tested.com/tech/547374-show-and-tell-microsoft-universal-folding-keyboard/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2412" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="4d6c2920-6e0e-4d9a-9201-6d22c206dd56" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:02:14.197" UserId="45" Comment="added silent tag; copyediting" Text="I bought a lot of silent mice, but all of them kept failing after 6 months max. The best one I had so far was a &quot;Hama Mirano&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any better one out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2413" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="4d6c2920-6e0e-4d9a-9201-6d22c206dd56" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:02:14.197" UserId="45" Comment="added silent tag; copyediting" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;silent&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2414" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="659" RevisionGUID="4d6c2920-6e0e-4d9a-9201-6d22c206dd56" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:02:14.197" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2415" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="664" RevisionGUID="ffce077a-cf82-4f96-b339-ba2108f04254" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:29:48.030" UserId="155" Comment="added tag; added link reference" Text="I am looking for an Android tablet which has USB [OTG](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go) webcam support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tablet should have the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Between 6 and 14 inches in screen size&#xD;&#xA;- Fanless&#xD;&#xA;- Cost less than $200 (negotiable)&#xD;&#xA;- Be fast enough to display 720p webcam input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some decent Android tablets that fit this set of features?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2416" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="664" RevisionGUID="ffce077a-cf82-4f96-b339-ba2108f04254" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:29:48.030" UserId="155" Comment="added tag; added link reference" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="648" RevisionGUID="c735cf3e-4412-4236-adea-2bad05521604" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:50:03.963" UserId="203" Comment="Edited for Amazon.it links" Text="Since you mentioned EU 230V, I've tried to source from EU suppliers. The first OEM that sprang to mind was Seasonic. Indeed, there's the [Seasonic X-400 Fanless 400W][1], 140,13 euros at Amazon.it. There's also the Titanium rated AX 1500i, but that's *less* efficent and way too costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, monetarily, is it really worth it? Even a good quality PSU is unlikely to be used for more than 10 years. Let's round that up and assume it's on 24/7 for 88 thousand hours. A 80+ Gold unit is typically [significantly cheaper][2] than a Platinum unit of similar rating. For an approximately [three watt][3] difference [in efficiency][4], that's about 264 kWh. It depends on your electricity price, but in most places, you won't even recoup your investment, and even if you do, you'd be better off buying a high-yield bond.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for cost, I'm going to recommend a 80+ Gold unit, [the 350W Super Flower SF-350P14XE Golden Green][2] (59,69 euros). Obviously, there are the environmentalists among us, though, would would be willing to save a few watts regardless of the cost (a commendable motive), for which the Seasonic offering would be the obvious pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've switched over to Amazon.it, the original links form Amazon.de for the [Platinum][5] and [Gold][6] rated PSUs are here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.it/dp/B003ZWQXUQ/?tag=pcp05-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.it/dp/B00H2ZQ6N6/?tag=pcp06-21&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1307-page3.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;op=Story2&amp;reid=200&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B003ZWQXUQ/?tag=pcp05-21&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00H2ZQ6N6/?tag=pcp05-21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="5b34047c-14c8-4951-8069-c1d59fafbf05" CreationDate="2015-10-15T05:07:32.700" UserId="569" Text="I'm looking  for a cheap  USB for my installation by bootusb. I want use it **only** for this job and I usually  install  linux distro.  What drive do you suggest me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2419" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="5b34047c-14c8-4951-8069-c1d59fafbf05" CreationDate="2015-10-15T05:07:32.700" UserId="569" Text="USB for bootUSB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2420" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="5b34047c-14c8-4951-8069-c1d59fafbf05" CreationDate="2015-10-15T05:07:32.700" UserId="569" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="8eb77860-1a34-46c2-9f4c-85e2c227ef7c" CreationDate="2015-10-15T06:36:47.590" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; clarified title; formatting; added reference link" Text="I'm looking for a cheap USB drive for my installation by [BootUSB](https://wiki.debian.org/BootUsb). I want use it **only** for this job, and I usually install a Linux distro on it. What drive do you suggest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2422" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="8eb77860-1a34-46c2-9f4c-85e2c227ef7c" CreationDate="2015-10-15T06:36:47.590" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; clarified title; formatting; added reference link" Text="USB for Linux BootUSB drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2423" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="8eb77860-1a34-46c2-9f4c-85e2c227ef7c" CreationDate="2015-10-15T06:36:47.590" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag; clarified title; formatting; added reference link" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="666" RevisionGUID="bfa92c0a-8216-40a3-85b5-7aa24a202dcb" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:06:41.707" UserId="571" Text="We are looking for network cards that support hardware timestamps (hardstamps). We need this for capturing packets with high precision and also do synchronisation using PTP / IEEE 1588.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the web, there are plenty of resources where people say that they are using Intel cards or others, but none of them lists actual product names.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find detailed information on this or can you recommend any network card that can do these things?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2425" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="666" RevisionGUID="bfa92c0a-8216-40a3-85b5-7aa24a202dcb" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:06:41.707" UserId="571" Text="Which network interface cards support hardware timestamps (hardstamps)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2426" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="666" RevisionGUID="bfa92c0a-8216-40a3-85b5-7aa24a202dcb" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:06:41.707" UserId="571" Text="&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2430" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="604" RevisionGUID="5c9ebe7b-872e-42fe-952c-d1aab4a06734" CreationDate="2015-10-15T16:02:45.730" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2432" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="1235840a-cc5f-480c-95d1-069f141693b8" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:19:09.750" UserId="569" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a cheap USB drive for my installation by [BootUSB](https://wiki.debian.org/BootUsb). I want use it **only** for this job, and I usually install a Linux distro on it.&#xA;I have an old 2Gb drive but seems slow when I installa distros.&#xA; What drive do you suggest? I don't want pay a lot, max 15 euros and the storage  should  be 8/16Gb (If I use it as virtual CD..)&#xA;thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="13c5f24d-3fe7-4ba0-a3bb-9a4eebcadc27" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:24:42.613" UserId="569" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body; deleted 7 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a cheap USB drive for my installation by [BootUSB](https://wiki.debian.org/BootUsb). I want use it **only** for this job, and I usually install Linux distros..&#xA;I have an old 2Gb drive but seems slow when it installs.&#xA; What drive do you suggest? I don't want pay a lot, max 15 euros and the storage  should  be 8/16Gb (If I use it as virtual CD..)&#xA;thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2441" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="665" RevisionGUID="508b4897-4743-431b-b873-724e5348619a" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:19:38.363" UserId="155" Comment="formatting and grammar" Text="I'm looking for a cheap USB drive for my installation by [BootUSB](https://wiki.debian.org/BootUsb). I want use it **only** for this job, and I usually install Linux distros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an old 2GB drive but seems slow when it installs. What drive do you suggest? I don't want pay a lot, maximum of &amp;euro;15, and the storage  should  be 8/16GB (if I use it as virtual CD)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="669" RevisionGUID="1e804571-aaa8-4103-8533-3b389c8f6274" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:22:36.467" UserId="576" Text="Which of these two graphic cards would be more suitable for gaming, what are the main differences between the two, which would you recommend from the two:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. The older model, Gainward GeForce GTX 760 Phantom 4GB DDR5 256-bit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. The newer model Gainward GeForce GTX 960 Phantom 4GB DDR5 128-bit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notable differences are the BUS memory on the two cards, and the chipset version. **Basically, my question would be, that how important are 128 bits when taking into account graphic cards. Is it worth sacrificing 128 bit of bus memory, for a newer chipset?** The price range is the same from where I would buy it, but the older version(1) is slowly taken out of production, I can only find two webshops which still has one on stock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning on buying a new PC for gaming, and I am interested what would be the difference between the two, which one should I choose. Or, if you could recommend another card in the same price range as this one. I am from Romania, and these cards cost 250-280$ in my country, this is the maximum I would spend on a graphic card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2443" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="669" RevisionGUID="1e804571-aaa8-4103-8533-3b389c8f6274" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:22:36.467" UserId="576" Text="Which of these two graphic cards is more suitable for gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2444" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="669" RevisionGUID="1e804571-aaa8-4103-8533-3b389c8f6274" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:22:36.467" UserId="576" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2445" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="73598d15-766e-4feb-8cbc-a82dfaa4cd27" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:10:21.400" UserId="577" Text="I am about to buy a new gaming PC and, checking for specs, I initially I was going towards the GTX 970 when I learned of the 3.5 GB issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand it, as long as my game does not use more than 3.5 GB, it will run smoothly but once that limit is passed, it will slow radically as it begins to use the slower 0.5GB chunk (the numbers I have seen suggest that it would go from extremely fluid play to unplayable almost instantaneously).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most comments seems to agree that unless I play it at 4K or use mods to load high-res textures, usually I will have no issues with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still, I am in doubt about upgrading towards a GTX 980; the price increase is considerable (~ 200€), the improved processing power would be welcomed but does not look like essential and, for the VRAM, the only difference is that those .5 GB are not slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: if I decide later to use lots of high-res textures/increase the resolution, how will the VRAM difference affect it? Will the 980 behave like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 3.5GB instead of 4GB)? Or will performance degrade in a more progressive way (slowing progressively, or just losing details from the textures)? 0.5 extra usable GB do not seem to be a lot for 200€, and NVIDIA cards with 6GB are out of budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2446" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="73598d15-766e-4feb-8cbc-a82dfaa4cd27" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:10:21.400" UserId="577" Text="Difference behavior of GTX 970 and GTX 980 due to 3.5 GB issue?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2447" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="73598d15-766e-4feb-8cbc-a82dfaa4cd27" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:10:21.400" UserId="577" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2448" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="671" RevisionGUID="5decc16b-5b29-4ace-b75e-dfd45c85f8f9" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:21:37.217" UserId="155" Text="To put it simply, the newer chipset you'll get with the GTX 960 won't really matter at all in comparison to the severe bottlenecking you'll experience with its memory bus size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Explanation**  &#xD;&#xA;On the video card itself, the memory bus connects the GPU to the VRAM. Think of it as a pipeline carrying water between two points. If you have a lot of VRAM (the water) and a small bus size to go with it (a very narrow pipe), all that water won't be able to cram into the small pipeline to get to the GPU &amp;mdash; you need a bigger bus to account for more memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, memory bus size should scale with the amount of VRAM to some extent. The exceptions to this concept come when you introduce faster clock speeds (which, in terms of this example, push the water through the pipeline faster) and overclocking (in which you manually speed up the water flow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The cards**  &#xD;&#xA;Now to look at the two video cards you're choosing from. The 760, while having an older chipset, has a bus size twice as large as the other card to account for the 4GB of VRAM. This bus size is still somewhat lacking, but it will do a _much_ better job than the 128-bit bus. To get ideal processing power out of the 760, you'll need to overclock it just a bit, but to get ideal processing power out of the 960, you'll need to overclock it _a ton_ (which ends up being more dangerous than ideal).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for my recommendation if I have to choose between these two cards, I would definitely go with the GTX 760. But if you have enough money to upgrade even more, I'd go for anything with a large memory bus size and at least 2GB of VRAM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2450" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="72b6e4ed-336d-4e66-81b2-700f919324c2" CreationDate="2015-10-15T23:28:03.333" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the [pc] tag to [desktop]" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="e63c4e66-c75a-4ba8-aae8-283b5d1af442" CreationDate="2015-10-15T23:47:47.027" UserId="577" Comment="added links to specific products" Text="I am about to buy a new gaming PC and, checking for specs, I initially I was going towards the GTX 970 when I learned of the 3.5 GB issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand it, as long as my game does not use more than 3.5 GB, it will run smoothly but once that limit is passed, it will slow radically as it begins to use the slower 0.5GB chunk (the numbers I have seen suggest that it would go from extremely fluid play to unplayable almost instantaneously).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most comments seems to agree that unless I play it at 4K or use mods to load high-res textures, usually I will have no issues with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still, I am in doubt about upgrading towards a GTX 980; the price increase is considerable (~ 200€), the improved processing power would be welcomed but does not look like essential and, for the VRAM, the only difference is that those .5 GB are not slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: if I decide later to use lots of high-res textures/increase the resolution, how will the VRAM difference affect it? Will the 980 behave like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 3.5GB instead of 4GB)? Or will performance degrade in a more progressive way (slowing progressively, or just losing details from the textures)? 0.5 extra usable GB do not seem to be a lot for 200€, and NVIDIA cards with 6GB are out of budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really do not have a favorite model for each GPU, but [I have eyed this 970 (Gigabyte Gaming G1 Windforce OC)][1]  and this seems to be [the equivalent 980][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, if there is something wrong/not so good about those specific models I would be willing to change, I only chose the first one because it comes with the GTX 970 &quot;preconfigured&quot; PCs, and the second one because it was easier to compare differences with the first one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.pccomponentes.com/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_970_gaming_g1_windforce_oc_4gb_gddr5.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.pccomponentes.com/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_980_windforce_3x_oc_4gb_gddr5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2452" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="669" RevisionGUID="f371bb4f-9364-4d1e-8e92-452838a8c6ef" CreationDate="2015-10-16T00:07:19.893" UserId="30" Comment="more descriptive title (so that not everyone has to click the question)" Text="Is the Gainward GeForce GTX 760 or 960 more suitable for gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2453" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="669" RevisionGUID="f371bb4f-9364-4d1e-8e92-452838a8c6ef" CreationDate="2015-10-16T00:07:19.893" Comment="Proposed by 30 approved by 155, 576 edit id of 187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2456" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="d3351a13-35b1-4095-b9b7-db352ed31bcb" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:53:49.210" UserId="57" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2457" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="496" RevisionGUID="0e093a0d-694b-404c-babe-8b7b412ccb8e" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:54:16.870" UserId="57" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2458" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="2bf4e7e6-1890-440b-899e-058be219b086" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:54:44.643" UserId="57" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2459" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="41" RevisionGUID="af809f96-48f8-44ff-9e4e-192c1583d403" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:55:13.933" UserId="57" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2463" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="344" RevisionGUID="cbf157d2-a04e-412a-b843-795312928978" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:04:36.630" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;fan-controller&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2464" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="202" RevisionGUID="fa3aef4e-babd-4583-b6e2-dc9e0188b55a" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:05:30.947" UserId="155" Comment="changed out relevant tags" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="673" RevisionGUID="208ed075-6a6a-4d1b-b824-35e45a917998" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:13:48.320" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="674" RevisionGUID="3fe2e2f6-8b51-495b-8a75-8ac41c664c8c" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:13:48.320" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="675" RevisionGUID="58856709-1751-458b-8d06-f3ad0f59e1a4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:17:10.173" UserId="279" Text="I'm looking for a cheap midi controller keyboard. I would primarily use this for playing around with music production through Reason 8. I will also occasionally use it to play synth sounds live through my laptop with Reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a USB output, no sound outputs are necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have at least 49 keys. More would be nice but not necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a mod wheel and a pitch bend wheel separately. (my current controller has the two combined together, which is obnoxious to say the least)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have reprogrammable faders and knobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB-powered would be nice, but isn't a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Light, and easy to carry around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Button pads would be nice.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Durable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no brand preferences. I would like to spend less money if possible. Ideal price would be under $100, but I could see myself going up to $150 if it was a significant improvement in quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2468" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="675" RevisionGUID="58856709-1751-458b-8d06-f3ad0f59e1a4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:17:10.173" UserId="279" Text="What is a good cheap midi controller?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2469" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="675" RevisionGUID="58856709-1751-458b-8d06-f3ad0f59e1a4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:17:10.173" UserId="279" Text="&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="676" RevisionGUID="e39e3caf-1d4e-4d16-b7eb-351742b4f1c6" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:18:04.417" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="677" RevisionGUID="871f57f2-b1a2-4a53-863c-530bbe9668f6" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:18:04.417" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="666" RevisionGUID="e1abfed3-455c-436d-9cc0-d0d921180605" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:21:06.613" UserId="571" Comment="added 312 characters in body" Text="We are looking for network cards that support hardware timestamps (hardstamps). We need this for capturing packets with high precision and also do synchronisation using PTP / IEEE 1588.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the web, there are plenty of resources where people say that they are using Intel cards or others, but none of them lists actual product names. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find detailed information on this or can you recommend any network card that can do these things? How can I ensure that the card also takes hardstamps for non-PTP packets?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime I got an answer from Intel confirming that the adapters I340 and I350 support hardstamps for PTP. Unfortunately, the data sheets do not state whether there is also support for hardstamping non-PTP packets." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="678" RevisionGUID="4df6f288-515f-43a6-8acd-67a4337e5341" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:23:06.350" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="679" RevisionGUID="b13aecc2-3bb8-45b3-93ed-3e12f19e3fa5" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:23:06.350" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="680" RevisionGUID="19006c0b-3b34-400e-9576-5e5a8804a5f2" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:26:10.080" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="681" RevisionGUID="fc2c74f3-0e34-42ec-a9ff-cddb3ec60999" CreationDate="2015-10-16T06:26:10.080" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="9a1e05b4-14a8-4e80-aab7-b867d87648ce" CreationDate="2015-10-16T07:29:12.137" UserId="577" Comment="added 215 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am about to buy a new gaming PC and, checking for specs, I initially I was going towards the GTX 970 when I learned of the 3.5 GB issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand it, as long as my game does not use more than 3.5 GB, it will run smoothly but once that limit is passed, it will slow radically as it begins to use the slower 0.5GB chunk (the numbers I have seen suggest that it would go from extremely fluid play to unplayable almost instantaneously).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most comments seems to agree that unless I play it at 4K or use mods to load high-res textures, usually I will have no issues with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still, I am in doubt about upgrading towards a GTX 980; the price increase is considerable (~ 200€), the improved processing power would be welcomed but does not look like essential and, for the VRAM, the only difference is that those .5 GB are not slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: if I decide later to use lots of high-res textures/increase the resolution, how will the VRAM difference affect it? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Will performance degrade in a more progressive way (slowing progressively, or just losing details from the textures)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Will the 980 behave just like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 4GB instead of at 3.5GB)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Will the game just crash if it tries to use more than 4GB of VRAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Other?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For me, 0.5 extra usable GB do not seem to be a lot for 200€(NVIDIA cards with 6GB are out of budget), but I may consider it if this means that the performance will degrade in a more progressive way when full.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really do not have a favorite model for each GPU, but [I have eyed this 970 (Gigabyte Gaming G1 Windforce OC)][1]  and this seems to be [the equivalent 980][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, if there is something wrong/not so good about those specific models I would be willing to change, I only chose the first one because it comes with the GTX 970 &quot;preconfigured&quot; PCs, and the second one because it was easier to compare differences with the first one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.pccomponentes.com/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_970_gaming_g1_windforce_oc_4gb_gddr5.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.pccomponentes.com/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_980_windforce_3x_oc_4gb_gddr5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2478" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="9a1e05b4-14a8-4e80-aab7-b867d87648ce" CreationDate="2015-10-16T07:29:12.137" UserId="577" Comment="added 215 characters in body; edited title" Text="Different behavior of GTX 970 and GTX 980 due to 3.5 GB issue?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="ab829cd2-3f77-4cd9-befa-83e0dc0a2586" CreationDate="2015-10-16T08:13:43.097" UserId="580" Text="Due to the rise of the reseller's price of the Dell P2815Q I'm looking for an alternative regarding cost-benefit. It should be the same size and the same resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy a product for around € 400 when it was around € 300 the same year: http://cdn.idealo.com/folder/Product/4191/6/4191679/s2_pricetrendFaceliftLarge.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any 28&quot; recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2480" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="ab829cd2-3f77-4cd9-befa-83e0dc0a2586" CreationDate="2015-10-16T08:13:43.097" UserId="580" Text="Alternative to Dell Professional P2815Q (28&quot; TFT)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2481" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="ab829cd2-3f77-4cd9-befa-83e0dc0a2586" CreationDate="2015-10-16T08:13:43.097" UserId="580" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="c7e28175-fc1e-4da8-91f3-766e827bc91b" CreationDate="2015-10-16T09:07:11.467" UserId="580" Comment="added 94 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for an alternative 28&quot; TFT to the Dell P2815Q due to the rise of its price: http://cdn.idealo.com/folder/Product/4191/6/4191679/s2_pricetrendFaceliftLarge.png.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be a TFT around 28&quot; with a resolution of 3840 x 2160 (Ultra HD).&#xD;&#xA;I don't see any other requierements except a price below $ 350, I'm currently using a iiyama and the quality should be equal. If anybody knows the reason for the price fluctuation, I would be interested (OT). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2483" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="c7e28175-fc1e-4da8-91f3-766e827bc91b" CreationDate="2015-10-16T09:07:11.467" UserId="580" Comment="added 94 characters in body; edited title" Text="28&quot; TFT for under $ 350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2484" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="683" RevisionGUID="fa134628-f19c-430a-9381-89972631163e" CreationDate="2015-10-16T13:55:51.497" UserId="582" Text="Sandisk Extreme is a good mix of budget and speed.  smaller size is better performance on these devices [Sandisk Extreme][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB Benchmark Links Like This][2] are fairly reliable sources for your consumer research purposes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DZPUOU8?keywords=usb%20thumb%20drive%203.0&amp;qid=1445003452&amp;ref_=sr_1_5&amp;sr=8-5&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://usb.userbenchmark.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2485" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="3b48adff-91f9-40d8-b569-ea9669024630" CreationDate="2015-10-16T14:03:23.750" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [pc] tag." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2486" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="112" RevisionGUID="3b48adff-91f9-40d8-b569-ea9669024630" CreationDate="2015-10-16T14:03:23.750" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 84 edit id of 193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="8f2b6353-bc66-4210-bc55-d201d51b2f3d" CreationDate="2015-10-16T17:33:49.750" UserId="586" Text="I currently have four identically sized HDDs in RAID-10 on an Adaptec 8805. Unfortunately this controller can't do read/write caching of the array's blocks on SSDs attached to the RAID controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I now have several SSDs (two right now, possibly expanding to four later) and would like to utilize them in this fashion without incurring the CPU overhead of doing it in software. I would use ZFS ZIL/L2ARC if my operating system were Linux/BSD/Solaris, but I'm running Windows, so that's out of the running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a gaming workstation, not a dedicated server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a RAID card that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can do RAID-10.&#xD;&#xA; - Can do read/write cache on multiple SSDs. The caching stuff should be handled on the RAID processor so that the CPU is not impacted by the calculations required for managing the cache.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports at least eight attached devices without needing a daughter board (can be &quot;external&quot; via breakout cables or individual ports attached to the card itself). If the ports are SAS, I can get the SAS to SATA cables, no worries.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports booting via UEFI firmware with the BIOS Compatibility Support Module disabled.&#xD;&#xA; - Drives that use &quot;Advanced Format&quot; 4K native sectors are supported in 4K native mode (NOT 512e).&#xD;&#xA; - Supports a non-volatile cache or battery backup module.&#xD;&#xA; - Desirable, but not essential: Boots up in an above-average time for a RAID card. Faster is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given all these requirements, I'd like to go for minimum cost, while buying the card &quot;new&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options are available to me?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2490" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="8f2b6353-bc66-4210-bc55-d201d51b2f3d" CreationDate="2015-10-16T17:33:49.750" UserId="586" Text="RAID card that can do SSD caching, 4kn, UEFI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2491" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="8f2b6353-bc66-4210-bc55-d201d51b2f3d" CreationDate="2015-10-16T17:33:49.750" UserId="586" Text="&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="c21f66ea-6711-42b6-b5e0-3eb486da33a4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T18:13:38.087" UserId="586" Comment="added 230 characters in body" Text="I currently have four identically sized HDDs in RAID-10 on an Adaptec 8805. Unfortunately this controller can't do read/write caching of the array's blocks on SSDs attached to the RAID controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I now have several SSDs (two right now, possibly expanding to four later) and would like to utilize them in this fashion without incurring the CPU overhead of doing it in software. I would use ZFS ZIL/L2ARC if my operating system were Linux/BSD/Solaris, but I'm running Windows, so that's out of the running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a gaming workstation, not a dedicated server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a RAID card that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can do RAID-10.&#xD;&#xA; - Can do read/write cache on multiple SSDs. The caching stuff should be handled on the RAID processor so that the CPU is not impacted by the calculations required for managing the cache.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports at least eight attached devices without needing a daughter board (can be &quot;external&quot; via breakout cables or individual ports attached to the card itself). If the ports are SAS, I can get the SAS to SATA cables, no worries.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports booting via UEFI firmware with the BIOS Compatibility Support Module disabled.&#xD;&#xA; - Drives that use &quot;Advanced Format&quot; 4K native sectors are supported in 4K native mode (NOT 512e).&#xD;&#xA; - Supports a non-volatile cache or battery backup module.&#xD;&#xA; - Desirable, but not essential: Boots up in an above-average time for a RAID card. Faster is better.&#xD;&#xA; - Connects to the system by PCI Express. The slot width and revision are not important for me, since I am planning to put it into a PCIe 3.0 x16 slot (with all 16 lanes enabled), so I have more than enough lanes to throw at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given all these requirements, I'd like to go for minimum cost, while buying the card &quot;new&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options are available to me?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="552" RevisionGUID="2140b1ee-ddea-4045-8f44-a98504f5c3d7" CreationDate="2015-10-16T18:22:17.293" UserId="585" Comment="readability" Text="I use an **EasyAcc PB12000** (12,000 mAh) to power my Raspberry Pi.  Given how long the Pi will run on a single charge, it does appear to reach its claimed capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EasyAcc doesn't appear to sell that model any longer, but a pair of [these 15000 mAh batteries][1] should meet your criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Total capacity: 30,000 mAh&#xD;&#xA;* Total cost: $54&#xD;&#xA;* Total weight: 1.25 pounds&#xD;&#xA;* Strap a pair of them to some sort of stiff backing, and you've got your flat form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8UFTQA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2494" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="552" RevisionGUID="2140b1ee-ddea-4045-8f44-a98504f5c3d7" CreationDate="2015-10-16T18:22:17.293" Comment="Proposed by 585 approved by 241 edit id of 195" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="e6448bba-1a22-4bc9-9efd-aed0434f1af4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:28:50.953" UserId="587" Text="What's the best Mouse Pad for me? Especially for Counter Strike GO&#xD;&#xA;Mouse: MadCatz M.M.O. 7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mouse driver dpi: 800dpi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows dpi: Standart&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acceleration: Off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mouse grip: Palm grip&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finger set: 1+2+2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for some mouses coloured pads might not be the best option&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for help" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="e6448bba-1a22-4bc9-9efd-aed0434f1af4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:28:50.953" UserId="587" Text="Mouse Pad For MadCatz M.M.O. 7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="e6448bba-1a22-4bc9-9efd-aed0434f1af4" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:28:50.953" UserId="587" Text="&lt;mouse&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2498" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="36c3cef3-d1e8-4e78-9dc0-ff1283abbc58" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:20:20.153" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [pc] tag. Reworded question." Text="I am looking for a computer that can handle 6 virtual machines and about 80 chrome tabs open. I will be using Visual Studio as well. I'm asking about chipsets, RAM, and also generally what computer is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The operating systems installed on the VM will be: Win 10, Win 7, Win XP, WinXP_B, Debian, Ubuntu. I will allocate a minimum amount of resoureces to each of these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget, a cheaper computer that can still handle the workload would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like at least 32GB RAM because my current laptop is 16GB and I use 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing. What other specs should I be looking for in a computer that can handle the workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2499" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="36c3cef3-d1e8-4e78-9dc0-ff1283abbc58" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:20:20.153" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the [pc] tag. Reworded question." Text="&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;web-browsing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2500" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="36c3cef3-d1e8-4e78-9dc0-ff1283abbc58" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:20:20.153" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 57, -1 edit id of 194" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="54e512e5-bbc9-4a2e-bafc-09f75c31f40f" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:20:20.153" UserId="155" Comment="Removed the [pc] tag. Reworded question." Text="I am looking for a computer that can handle 6 virtual machines and about 80 chrome tabs open. I will be using Visual Studio as well. I'm asking about chipsets, RAM, and also generally what computer is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The operating systems installed on the VM will be: Win 10, Win 7, Win XP, Win XP_B, Debian, Ubuntu. I will allocate a minimum amount of resources to each of these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget, a cheaper computer that can still handle the workload would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like at least 32GB RAM because my current laptop is 16GB and I use 8GB of its RAM largely from just web browsing. What other specs should I be looking for in a computer that can handle the workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2502" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="54e512e5-bbc9-4a2e-bafc-09f75c31f40f" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:20:20.153" UserId="155" Comment="Removed the [pc] tag. Reworded question." Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;web-browsing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="b596adb3-9f98-4a6f-b8d8-584f50b4560e" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:23:54.270" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; added provided info and tag" Text="What's the best mouse pad for me? Especially for Counter Strike: GO &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse: MadCatz M.M.O. 7&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse driver dpi: 800&#xD;&#xA;* Windows dpi: standard&#xD;&#xA;* Acceleration: off&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse grip: palm&#xD;&#xA;* Finger set: 1+2+2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for some mouses coloured pads might not be the best option.  &#xD;&#xA;Any size will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2504" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="b596adb3-9f98-4a6f-b8d8-584f50b4560e" CreationDate="2015-10-16T21:23:54.270" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; added provided info and tag" Text="&lt;mouse-pad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="686" RevisionGUID="a6afb27f-4500-4edb-9d7a-0596a69811ae" CreationDate="2015-10-16T22:54:17.923" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="So ive been googling for ever and cant seem to find any info on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know if there is a PCIe to Thunderbolt card that works with Linux (if there are drivers for it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone tried installing such a card in a Linux box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2506" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="686" RevisionGUID="a6afb27f-4500-4edb-9d7a-0596a69811ae" CreationDate="2015-10-16T22:54:17.923" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="PCIe to Thunderbolt on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2507" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="686" RevisionGUID="a6afb27f-4500-4edb-9d7a-0596a69811ae" CreationDate="2015-10-16T22:54:17.923" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="687" RevisionGUID="9d9cb6af-c94b-4224-87aa-cf60cfd382cd" CreationDate="2015-10-17T01:07:59.710" UserId="476" Text="Yes, I agree that you should be in doubt about updating to a GTX 980. The card is not much different than the 970, and it is a lot more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 970 vs. GTX 980:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores: 1664 vs. 2048&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Base Clock: 1050Mhz vs. 1126Mhz&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Texture Fill Rate: 109GT/s vs. 144GT/s&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 3.5GB vs. 4GB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="690" RevisionGUID="c0f03b6d-03ba-416f-8c1e-b3fe913d5fb9" CreationDate="2015-10-17T02:35:59.073" UserId="593" Text="I have some old devices (eg. retro gaming units etc.) that connect via an analogue RF antenna connection. What devices are recommended to convert the signal to work with modern digital televisions? (eg. analogue RF to composite/component RCA).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen others use an old VCR as a converter, but I don't want to try source a huge VCR from somewhere just to use as a signal converter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="690" RevisionGUID="c0f03b6d-03ba-416f-8c1e-b3fe913d5fb9" CreationDate="2015-10-17T02:35:59.073" UserId="593" Text="Connecting old analogue devices to modern digital TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="690" RevisionGUID="c0f03b6d-03ba-416f-8c1e-b3fe913d5fb9" CreationDate="2015-10-17T02:35:59.073" UserId="593" Text="&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2519" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="691" RevisionGUID="69e40d77-6fab-486c-94d9-249a9038ec48" CreationDate="2015-10-17T03:43:46.887" UserId="39" Text="I am looking for a monitor to use for a novelty decorative, yet functional, **pumpkin computer**.  I will probably be using a Raspberry Pi or Beaglebone Black for this.  In rough order of importance, my requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must fit inside of a pumpkin.  Think supermarket, not first prize at the county fair.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports **RCA or HDMI** (HDMI preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - Includes **AC adaptor** or power cord.  please recommend one if it does not.&#xD;&#xA; - Halloween is fast approaching.  **Three day shipping** must be available.&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 3 pounds (2.5 pounds is a little on the heavy side, too) &#xD;&#xA; - Decent **brightness** and manageable **glare** on the screen.  It may be displayed outside during the daytime.  I might be able to get around this by recessing the monitor in the pumpkin.&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is about **$95**, but less is better&#xD;&#xA; - I would like to be able to read text for things like basic web browsing.&#xD;&#xA; - Higher resolution is good, but it doesn't matter as much if it isn't an HDMI display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Realistically, I think the monitor needs to be at least 5 inches to have much of an effect, but feel free to include a 4.3 recommendation if it is under $20, as I will probably buy it as well to use as a backup.  I think that 9 or 10 inches is probably the upper bound of what could reasonably work.  If it is too heavy, it will be difficult to stably mount, and it may deform the pumpkin, causing it to slip off, over the course of the ~5 days that this pumpkin is expected to exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following is my wish list, though I don't expect to get many recommendations that include these things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Built in speaker(s)&#xD;&#xA; - Built in USB hub&#xD;&#xA; - As cheep as reasonable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2520" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="691" RevisionGUID="69e40d77-6fab-486c-94d9-249a9038ec48" CreationDate="2015-10-17T03:43:46.887" UserId="39" Text="Small monitor for mounting inside of a pumpkin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2521" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="691" RevisionGUID="69e40d77-6fab-486c-94d9-249a9038ec48" CreationDate="2015-10-17T03:43:46.887" UserId="39" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2527" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="55" RevisionGUID="627234bb-164a-4a8f-802b-6361a67ec8e4" CreationDate="2015-10-17T08:03:38.510" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="693" RevisionGUID="a82f27b5-4e5d-4c74-97e0-b84942ee59ee" CreationDate="2015-10-17T08:38:01.643" UserId="531" Text="Buy a tablet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact the [amazon fire][1] looks like a great option here. In fact, its cheaper than a 7 inch tablet with similar specs from my favoured crapgadget vendor &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a *cheap*, bog standard tablet (running fireos) , has a 7 inch *ips* screen and considering a raspi is *35* usd and this is *50* usd... its probably a pretty sensible option for what you have in mind. Maybe throw in a case and mount the case to the pumpkin, and protect the tablet from pumpkin guts and &#xD;&#xA;throw in a 7 inch matte screen protector (for better daylight use), and its about as good as it gets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're american? 2 day shipping with prime. Need more than one? *They have 6 packs* for the price of 5. Who'd have thunk. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TSUGXKE/ref=fs_ods_fs_tab_fd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2533" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="696" RevisionGUID="92dbfabf-d10e-489f-8675-f443642dee0d" CreationDate="2015-10-17T13:58:51.880" UserId="597" Text="Although this is a *lot* more powerful than you have asked for, for $195 you can pick up a used Lenovo X220 with a dual core 2.5Ghz i5-2520m off Ebay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![x220 image][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 12&quot; 1366x768 display&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 Pro OEM licence&#xD;&#xA;- No optical drive&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB DDR3 RAM, mine only had one slot used too&#xD;&#xA;- MSATA SSD support&#xD;&#xA;- 250GB standard HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Quite easy to find one with ~6h battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got one a few months ago to take to college with me, and it can quite happily handle anything you would ever want to throw at an ultraportable (hell, video editing is even doable if you are patient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, they are near enough bullet proof, in true ThinkPad style. Mine has fallen out of my bag straight onto tarmac on its corner from ~1m, granted you can see some of the black matte coating has worn off so you can see the shiny metal, but it still works just fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpoint is fantastic on an ultraportable, the matte screen is great as is the trademark ThinkPad keyboard. More ports than you know what to do with: 3 USB 2.0, SD slot, VGA, DisplayPort, ExpressCard (!?), fingerprint and an easily replaceable battery unlike some new laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have Windows 10 and Linux dual booting on mine (have put an SSD in it) and it really flies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Certainly worth having a look at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X220-Laptop-12-5-Intel-Core-i5-2-50GHz-4GB-250GB-Windows-7-Pro-/272014680700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/i0EdM.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="691" RevisionGUID="30811362-7276-4996-a156-0e1fa1e351bc" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:36:07.410" UserId="39" Comment="Clarify requirements" Text="I am looking for a monitor to use for a novelty decorative, yet functional, **pumpkin computer**.  I will probably be using a Raspberry Pi or Beaglebone Black for this because I already own one.  In rough order of importance, my requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must fit inside of a pumpkin.  Think supermarket, not first prize at the county fair.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports **RCA or HDMI** (HDMI preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - Includes **AC adaptor** or power cord.  please recommend one if it does not.&#xD;&#xA; - Halloween is fast approaching.  **Three day shipping** to the US must be available.&#xD;&#xA; - Weighs less than 3 pounds (2.5 pounds is a little on the heavy side, too) &#xD;&#xA; - Decent **brightness** and manageable **glare** on the screen.  It may be displayed outside during the daytime.  I might be able to get around this by recessing the monitor in the pumpkin.&#xD;&#xA; - The budget is about **$95**, but less is better.  I already own a Raspberry Pi, so this is not included in that budget.&#xD;&#xA; - I would like to be able to read text for things like basic web browsing.&#xD;&#xA; - Higher resolution is good, but it doesn't matter as much if it isn't an HDMI display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Realistically, I think the monitor needs to be at least 5 inches to have much of an effect, but feel free to include a 4.3 recommendation if it is under $20, as I will probably buy it as well to use as a backup.  I think that 9 or 10 inches is probably the upper bound of what could reasonably work.  If it is too heavy, it will be difficult to stably mount, and it may deform the pumpkin, causing it to slip off, over the course of the ~5 days that this pumpkin is expected to exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following is my wish list, though I don't expect to get many recommendations that include these things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Built in speaker(s)&#xD;&#xA; - Built in USB hub&#xD;&#xA; - As cheep as reasonable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="697" RevisionGUID="46de7657-8f3d-418e-9c68-6457bf3f034d" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:43:30.743" UserId="591" Text="My serial ATA hard disk broke, so I want to replace it. The SATA drives I've seen online are very diverse in appearence, which makes me skeptical that they work identically. For example, The ports on [this one][1] [this one][2] look very different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I be looking for a specific type of SATA hard drive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X95ROOS?keywords=serial%20ata%20internal%20hard%20drive&amp;qid=1445092243&amp;ref_=sr_1_8&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067149011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4LIC04?keywords=serial%20ata%20internal%20hard%20drive&amp;qid=1445092584&amp;ref_=sr_1_34&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067149011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-34" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2536" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="697" RevisionGUID="46de7657-8f3d-418e-9c68-6457bf3f034d" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:43:30.743" UserId="591" Text="Will any replacement SATA hard drive work to replace any SATA port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2537" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="697" RevisionGUID="46de7657-8f3d-418e-9c68-6457bf3f034d" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:43:30.743" UserId="591" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="698" RevisionGUID="c320f3d1-28b0-48e5-a3f2-cc1c9b67a06a" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:58:08.460" UserId="531" Text="If you *just* want a display, adafruit has a very n[ice 7&quot; display][1] for about 70usd. DX has screens that are [considerably cheaper][2], slightly dubious build quality compared to what the adafruit screens seem to have, and somewhat variable shipping time (tho its currently a MVP product and they promise fast shipping . The controller board's the same. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amusingly, even the 'cheaper' dx screen's almost the same price as the fire tablet in my other answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1934&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dx.com/p/7-digital-lcd-screen-drive-board-hdmi-vga-2av-for-raspberry-pcduino-cubieboard-black-275810#.ViJhimuWwhQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="699" RevisionGUID="f43c6c34-392f-439f-8e7b-eafdb08c15c0" CreationDate="2015-10-17T15:03:48.393" UserId="531" Text="Yup. Its standard as long as its the same from factor. For that matter 7mm and 9mm 2.5 inch drives, and 3.5 inch drives like that all share the same connector. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just make sure its the right form factor to fit in the bay, but you should be fine otherwise. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If its a desktop, 2.5 inch (most SSDs are that!) would work with standard cables, though you may need an adaptor to fit it in a bay, or 3.5 inch drives would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a laptop, thickness matters. A 7mm drive can replace a 9 mm drive with an optional shim, but not vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connectors are identical. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2540" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="687" RevisionGUID="bbd949ba-0288-468a-96da-e5d529210b47" CreationDate="2015-10-17T19:30:14.030" UserId="476" Comment="Answered questions" Text="Yes, I agree that you should be in doubt about updating to a GTX 980. The card is not much different than the 970, and it is a lot more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 970 vs. GTX 980:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores: 1664 vs. 2048&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Base Clock: 1050Mhz vs. 1126Mhz&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Texture Fill Rate: 109GT/s vs. 144GT/s&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 3.5GB vs. 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;And to answer your questions:&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will the 980 behave just like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 4GB instead of at 3.5GB)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: Yes. However, it does have a few more CUDA cores. This will result in a greater overall performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will the 980 behave just like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 4GB instead of at 3.5GB)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: I suppose so. Most games will try to regulate the amount of VRAM they use in accordance to how much you have. The reason the 3.5GB is an issue on the 970 is the fact that games think they can use all 4GB, and when they dip into that 'defective' 0.5GB, everything slows down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will performance degrade in a more progressive way (slowing progressively, or just losing details from the textures)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: I don't really understand the question. If you play at 4k and use high res textures, the game will start lagging and your fps will go down, because they game does not have enough VRAM to hold all the information.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="700" RevisionGUID="0ecb2e8d-09b6-44e3-a661-f1b3823936e6" CreationDate="2015-10-18T00:39:44.970" UserId="199" Text="I've run a test with a borrowed SanDisk Ultra 64GB and it worked perfectly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cards (although they are only 32GB ones) which also work well:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston microSD-HC card 32GB ULTRA Class10 SDCA10/32GB &#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Memory 32GB Evo MicroSDHC UHS-I Grade 1 Class 10 Memory Card without Adapter " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="698" RevisionGUID="e2209e9f-69ba-4a69-bd70-eeab297a2af0" CreationDate="2015-10-18T03:28:04.817" UserId="531" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="If you *just* want a display, adafruit has a very n[ice 7&quot; display][1] for about 70usd. DX has screens that are [considerably cheaper][2], slightly dubious build quality compared to what the adafruit screens seem to have, and somewhat variable shipping time (tho its currently a MVP product and they promise fast shipping . The controller board's the same on both I believe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my 10.1 inch screen from DX, and the 7 inch version you need a 12V power supply - I just grabbed a wallwart from an old router and it works fine. Any 12V supply would do.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amusingly, even the 'cheaper' dx screen's almost the same price as the fire tablet in my other answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1934&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dx.com/p/7-digital-lcd-screen-drive-board-hdmi-vga-2av-for-raspberry-pcduino-cubieboard-black-275810#.ViJhimuWwhQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="686" RevisionGUID="5cb07b5e-dd27-455a-ba87-2664b81aab54" CreationDate="2015-10-18T05:16:53.303" UserId="155" Comment="grammar" Text="So I've been Googling forever and can't seem to find any info on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know if there is a PCIe-to-Thunderbolt card that works with Linux (if there are drivers for it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone tried installing such a card in a Linux box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="703" RevisionGUID="9f182412-4ae7-4d5c-80f5-f3e108b70e1f" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:25:12.123" UserId="30" Text="I want to create screenshots from games/software running on the [Dreamcast](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreamcast).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea how that’s even possible. I guess I would have to connect it to my PC somehow? Or are there dedicated devices for something like that available?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I’m looking for the cheapest way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Preferably something that works without having to install it in the PC, because there’s no space left in my case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; (But if it’s much cheaper that way, I could dig up an old PC with a tower case.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally it would not require VGA, because not all games support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; (If a VGA-only solution is much cheaper, I can live with not being able to screenshot those few games.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* In case special software is needed for using the hardware, this software should run on GNU/Linux, and ideally be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Being able to record videos is a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I need this for a PAL Dreamcast, if it matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2554" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="703" RevisionGUID="9f182412-4ae7-4d5c-80f5-f3e108b70e1f" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:25:12.123" UserId="30" Text="Capturing screenshots from the Dreamcast" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2555" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="703" RevisionGUID="9f182412-4ae7-4d5c-80f5-f3e108b70e1f" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:25:12.123" UserId="30" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2556" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="703" RevisionGUID="a1dd9574-9159-4f9f-a76e-6f1eb926a0c4" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:40:14.440" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="704" RevisionGUID="a0682444-5b50-4bea-8ca4-987e8dc3aa5e" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:41:55.307" UserId="604" Text="I am currently upgrading my computer piece by piece, and before making the jump to a new motherboard (and processor and memory), my wife purchased me some new DDR3 RAM, which was lovely but now I would feel that I cannot upgrade to DDR4 without at least using the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However; I know of boards which will allow both to be used, so I could use the DDR3 for a time, then in the future upgrade to DDR4. My real question is, what boards are currently available in this format?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2558" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="704" RevisionGUID="a0682444-5b50-4bea-8ca4-987e8dc3aa5e" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:41:55.307" UserId="604" Text="Current DDR3/DDR4 RAM Motherboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2559" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="704" RevisionGUID="a0682444-5b50-4bea-8ca4-987e8dc3aa5e" CreationDate="2015-10-18T08:41:55.307" UserId="604" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="705" RevisionGUID="3a4a61e7-62a7-4020-beef-bf36111877d0" CreationDate="2015-10-18T14:38:14.690" UserId="65" Text="What you need is called a [demodulator](http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Picture-Monitor-Projectors-TV-LCDHR/dp/B0011NM17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445178830&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Rf+demodulator).  Due to the digital switchover, they are becoming more and more difficult to find, but can still be found if you know what to look for.  It is essentially an NTSC TV tuner, sometimes with only a channel 3/4 tuner, that outputs some other standard output signal such as VGA, composite, Y-Pr-Pb, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="705" RevisionGUID="4e04fdc1-9ec8-448a-bd6e-97879395e88c" CreationDate="2015-10-18T14:49:14.837" UserId="65" Comment="added 300 characters in body" Text="What you need is called a [demodulator](http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Picture-Monitor-Projectors-TV-LCDHR/dp/B0011NM17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445178830&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Rf+demodulator).  Due to the digital switchover, they are becoming more and more difficult to find, but can still be found if you know what to look for.  It is essentially an NTSC TV tuner, sometimes with only a channel 3/4 tuner, that outputs some other standard output signal such as VGA, composite, Y-Pr-Pb, etc.  Such devices used to sell for less than $20, but are rare enough now that the prices have gone up dramatically.  There are also several on eBay such as [this one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-RF-Coax-To-RCA-Video-Audio-Demodulator-NTSC-Cable-TV-Tuner-/250465722215?hash=item3a50eb9f67:g:BUYAAOxyepRRvkIz)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2570" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="706" RevisionGUID="dc3f3ec5-5d2f-4e64-84bc-fb6211540c3e" CreationDate="2015-10-18T15:14:44.370" UserId="65" Text="From a cost perspective, your best bet is something used off eBay.  If you want something new, it will likely be way overkill.  [Hauppauge](http://www.hauppauge.com) has always had solid capture devices, and [this one](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hvr2255.html) appears to have Linux support (as do many of their products).  NTSC or RCA capture is quickly disappearing, as no modern device uses those outputs.  I've never seen one with just screenshot capabilities, probably because the electronics for full video capture has been cheaper than shipping for any kind of product for decades now (i.e. no point in not including video capture too)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="707" RevisionGUID="bbe838dc-b5c5-4312-b3ba-22dee1b39f9b" CreationDate="2015-10-18T15:52:10.980" UserId="597" Text="If having physical controls on the front of your PC isn't hugely important to you and you are running Windows on your PC, how about a USB fan controller like the [NZXT Grid Plus v2][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Grid Plus v2 image][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to 6 fans, uses the temperature sensors already inside your components so you won't need to wire your own in, multiple profiles, custom temperature curves, up to 6 fans, and it all runs off a box that you can just sit somewhere hidden in your case. Also, it's only around $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the CAM software which you use to control the GRID, I have been using it with my NZXT Kraken x61 cooler, and it seems stable, albeit a little bit bloated with ~100MB RAM usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this isn't what you specifically asked for, but it may be worth exploring?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/157-GRID-V2-digital-fan-controller.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4rd3s.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2572" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="706" RevisionGUID="586dd5dc-5fba-45ec-923f-843d5a234373" CreationDate="2015-10-18T16:13:27.693" UserId="65" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="From a cost perspective, your best bet is something used off eBay.  If you want something new, it will likely be way overkill.  [Hauppauge](http://www.hauppauge.com) has always had solid capture devices, and [the HVR2255](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hvr2255.html) appears to have Linux support (as do many of their products).  This one happens to support HD as well (I doubt you'll find one with Linux support without it), but also has composite capture.  NTSC and composite capture are quickly disappearing, as no modern device use those outputs.  I've been doing capture for about 20 years now and I don't recall ever seeing a device with just screenshot capabilities, probably because the electronics for full video capture has been so cheap that it might as well be included in any supportable product (it's cheaper than packaging and shipping, so there's no point in not including video capture too)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="706" RevisionGUID="cb444f5e-c93c-4a15-8b8b-8b010035086c" CreationDate="2015-10-18T16:19:55.227" UserId="65" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="From a cost perspective, your best bet is something used off eBay.  If you want something new, it will likely be way overkill.  [Hauppauge](http://www.hauppauge.com) has always had solid capture devices, and [the HVR 1955](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hvr1955.html) appears to have [Linux support](http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Hauppauge_WinTV-HVR-1950) if you get the right one, as do many of their products.  This one happens to support HD as well (I doubt you'll find one with Linux support without it), but also has composite capture.  NTSC and composite capture are quickly disappearing, as no modern device use those outputs.  I've been doing capture for about 20 years now and I don't recall ever seeing a device with just screenshot capabilities, probably because the electronics for full video capture has been so cheap that it might as well be included in any supportable product (it's cheaper than packaging and shipping, so there's no point in not including video capture too)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="708" RevisionGUID="d31beda6-bc12-4da1-bca6-25d40e0ca7e2" CreationDate="2015-10-18T17:09:24.327" UserId="518" Text="Personally I prefer the mini-ITX form factor, so I ended up choosing a mini-ITX A88X motherboard, with the A8-7600 AMD APU (65 W TDP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, I chose the **[Antec ISK110 VESA](http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=NzA0OTM4) case, with 90 W power adapter**. Antec claims an efficiency up to 92 %. Given the case cost some 80 €, it's really impossible to beat on the cost side; as for efficiency, the Gold unit suggested by Alpha3031 is around 89 % so it's probably comparable. There is also [a case with 150 W PSU](http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=MjI4OQ==) but it makes no efficiency claims.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not found tests for such adapters, but Antec typically scores well enough in 80plus tests (see my other answer) so I don't think it would lie. The adapter is [AcBel ADB002](http://www.acbel.com.tw/eng/Product.aspx?id=57&amp;&amp;sd=31&amp;&amp;pid=343) and its external temperature is around 38 °C after several hours of (light) work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This solution addresses the use case provided by my question, but arguably not the specific question I made, because it's for 90 W power and not 100 W. It's also not suitable for A10-7850K and other 95 TDP APUs without downclocking. So I guess Alpha3031's answer is the most reasonable for the general case and I'll accept it in few days unless you suggest me otherwise. :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2575" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="708" RevisionGUID="8b1223a9-e7b9-4da8-9289-f405d4920e61" CreationDate="2015-10-18T17:17:44.410" UserId="518" Comment="+photo" Text="Personally I prefer the mini-ITX form factor, so I ended up choosing a mini-ITX A88X motherboard, with the A8-7600 AMD APU (65 W TDP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, I chose the **[Antec ISK110 VESA](http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=NzA0OTM4) case, with 90 W power adapter**. Antec claims an efficiency up to 92 %. Given the case cost some 80 €, it's really impossible to beat on the cost side; as for efficiency, the Gold unit suggested by Alpha3031 is around 89 % so it's probably comparable. There is also [a case with 150 W PSU](http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=MjI4OQ==) but it makes no efficiency claims.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not found tests for such adapters, but Antec typically scores well enough in 80plus tests (see my other answer) so I don't think it would lie. The adapter is [AcBel ADB002](http://www.acbel.com.tw/eng/Product.aspx?id=57&amp;&amp;sd=31&amp;&amp;pid=343) and its external temperature is around 38 °C after several hours of (light) work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This solution addresses the use case provided by my question, but arguably not the specific question I made, because it's for 90 W power and not 100 W. It's also not suitable for A10-7850K and other 95 TDP APUs without downclocking. So I guess Alpha3031's answer is the most reasonable for the general case and I'll accept it in few days unless you suggest me otherwise. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Newegg photo for the case, see PSU on top][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cqyph.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2576" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="f3ae3100-3bae-42cf-8d74-ad5016751ec1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:16:54.970" UserId="531" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 usd - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong. From the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the seiki, may or may not be a IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences. This is an ebay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and the same brand that made the 'original' cheap QHD/IPS display - the catleap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including a OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2577" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="17adf356-e247-4a7b-a269-7fcd7ca4fe64" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:49:20.417" UserId="531" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 usd - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong. From the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the seiki, may or may not be a IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences. This is an ebay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and crossover's pretty well known for these. (I thought it was a yamazaki. My bad.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including a OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model dosen't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee, which may or may not be an issue for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="8632d8fd-2e4b-459f-b47c-be3290444e4b" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:54:41.240" UserId="531" Comment="edited body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 usd - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong. From the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the seiki, may or may not be a IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences. This is an ebay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and crossover's pretty well known for these. (I thought it was a yamakasi. My bad.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including a OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model dosen't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee, which may or may not be an issue for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="e80552be-3447-4610-8194-fc257f4bdd6d" CreationDate="2015-10-19T00:08:43.473" UserId="606" Comment="fixed minor spelling and/or grammar errors" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong: from the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the Seiki, may or may not be an IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences. This is an eBay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and crossover's pretty well known for these. (I thought it was a Yamakasi. My bad.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee, which may or may not be an issue for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2580" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="e80552be-3447-4610-8194-fc257f4bdd6d" CreationDate="2015-10-19T00:08:43.473" Comment="Proposed by 606 approved by 531 edit id of 197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2581" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="dc732ddc-36c1-4295-b9cc-2f176ba697bf" CreationDate="2015-10-19T00:35:55.490" UserId="155" Comment="inline image" Text="I'm looking for an alternative 28&quot; TFT to the Dell P2815Q due to the rise of its price:&#xD;&#xA;[![Dell P2815Q price trend][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be a TFT around 28&quot; with a resolution of 3840 x 2160 (Ultra HD).&#xD;&#xA;I don't see any other requierements except a price below $350, I'm currently using a iiyama and the quality should be equal. If anybody knows the reason for the price fluctuation, I would be interested (OT). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KklP8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2582" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="682" RevisionGUID="dc732ddc-36c1-4295-b9cc-2f176ba697bf" CreationDate="2015-10-19T00:35:55.490" UserId="155" Comment="inline image" Text="28&quot; TFT for under $350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="6f2deafb-28dc-41b4-88eb-63ac61b54d7b" CreationDate="2015-10-19T01:05:55.337" UserId="531" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong: from the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the Seiki, may or may not be an IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences (4K, 60hz). This is an eBay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and crossover's pretty well known for these. (I thought it was a Yamakasi. My bad.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee, which may or may not be an issue for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2584" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="706" RevisionGUID="b35a64a4-94fb-454f-8064-6f9b6d5d0181" CreationDate="2015-10-19T01:25:09.937" UserId="65" Comment="Added PAL option" Text="From a cost perspective, your best bet is something used off eBay.  If you want something new, it will likely be way overkill.  [Hauppauge](http://www.hauppauge.com) has always had solid capture devices, and [the HVR 1955](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hvr1955.html) appears to have [Linux support](http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Hauppauge_WinTV-HVR-1950) if you get the right one, as do many of their products.  This one happens to support HD as well (I doubt you'll find one with Linux support without it), but also has composite capture.  NTSC and composite capture are quickly disappearing, as no modern device use those outputs.  I've been doing capture for about 20 years now and I don't recall ever seeing a device with just screenshot capabilities, probably because the electronics for full video capture has been so cheap that it might as well be included in any supportable product (it's cheaper than packaging and shipping, so there's no point in not including video capture too).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I missed the PAL requirement, for that you'd instead need the [HDPVR](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hdpvr.html). Linux support may be limited to MythTV (that's all they reference on the site), but that should be enough to get video and you can grab stills from that.  I have an HDPVR--it was pretty popular as it was the first reasonably priced HD Y-Pr-Pb capture device for PCs. It appears to be the cheapest external capture device they sell with PAL support." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="706" RevisionGUID="dd1d0d89-4962-46e0-a00e-4587ec70ab48" CreationDate="2015-10-19T01:34:18.797" UserId="65" Comment="added 678 characters in body" Text="From a cost perspective, your best bet is something used off eBay.  If you want something new, it will likely be way overkill.  [Hauppauge](http://www.hauppauge.com) has always had solid capture devices, and [the HVR 1955](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hvr1955.html) appears to have [Linux support](http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Hauppauge_WinTV-HVR-1950) if you get the right one, as do many of their products.  This one happens to support HD as well (I doubt you'll find one with Linux support without it), but also has composite capture.  NTSC and composite capture are quickly disappearing, as no modern device use those outputs.  I've been doing capture for about 20 years now and I don't recall ever seeing a device with just screenshot capabilities, probably because the electronics for full video capture has been so cheap that it might as well be included in any supportable product (it's cheaper than packaging and shipping, so there's no point in not including video capture too).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I missed the PAL requirement, for that you'd instead need the [HDPVR](http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hdpvr.html). Linux support may be limited to MythTV (that's all they reference on the site), but that should be enough to get video and you can grab stills from that.  I have an HDPVR--it was pretty popular as it was the first reasonably priced HD Y-Pr-Pb capture device for PCs. It appears to be the cheapest external capture device they sell with PAL support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also [this one](http://www.amazon.com/Hauppauge-610-USB-Live-Digitizer-Capture/dp/B0036VO2BI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445218023&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pal+video+capture+Linux) on Amazon, which reviewers claim works with Linux.  It's much cheaper, but I can't find it on their main website, so it must be a European-only product or something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd think I worked for Hauppauge, but I'm just a happy customer.  I had 12 TV tuners at one point and 8 of the were Hauppage.  They always worked really well for a reasonable price.  The other brand I had and liked was SiliconDust, which makes network tuners, but I don't think they have anything with composite or PAL capture." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="710" RevisionGUID="0a1b394e-fce1-4d5f-b403-cbef49686020" CreationDate="2015-10-19T01:39:33.780" UserId="531" Text="I've had excellent luck with the razer goliathus, assuming you want a 'soft' mousepad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a few others but this has a few features that make it a decent choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The edges are stitched, so it won't split. This is a *critical* feature in terms of long term use. I've had lesser gaming mousepads have their top surface peel off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two options for surfaces - If you're a *twitch* gamer, go for the slick surface of the [speed varient][1], if you want more control (and I'm guessing from the relatively low DPI, you're a *precision* player) there's the [control version][2].  I've got both (on different systems) and I'm relatively happy with both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's multiple sizes (I went with large on the speed pad, small on the control version) to suit your playing style as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.razerzone.com/sg-en/gaming-mouse-mats/razer-goliathus-speed-edition&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.razerzone.com/sg-en/gaming-mouse-mats/razer-goliathus-control-edition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2589" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="44569fe5-1398-48e1-a991-bf948234d98c" CreationDate="2015-10-19T03:41:02.723" UserId="531" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I guess I'm wrong: from the land of 300 dollar QHD monitors - [there's the very impressive, and untested CROSSOVER 288K][4]. About the same price as the Seiki (currently a shade under 350usd, though regular price is 430usd), may or may not be an IPS, but otherwise meets all your preferences (4K, 60hz). This is an eBay seller who's pretty well known for QHD displays, and crossover's pretty well known for these. (I thought it was a Yamakasi. My bad.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee, which may or may not be an issue for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-288K-UHD-HDMI2-0-LED-28-4K-3840x2160-60Hz-DP-Computer-Monitor-/121755887623?hash=item1c59376807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="618" RevisionGUID="a75f015a-3bb8-489a-8537-9061cae3b2ea" CreationDate="2015-10-19T06:26:18.000" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 90 characters in body" Text="There's chromebook class &quot;windows for bing&quot; boxen that fit most of your needs. I'm pretty happy with my [HP stream 11][1] and there's a new, lighter version coming out soon. [Lenovo][2] has a similar system and I seem to remember dell did (tho the smallest screen I can find is 15 inches) and there may be others so most of this talks about the current (2014) and future generations of these. MS is actually pushing this class of systems in competition with chromebooks, and least with mine, the freebies basically covered half the cost of the system, including a year of office 365.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These things are typical for the class.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a low end bay trail celeron 2840. While it is 2 cores at 2.16 GHz to 2.58 GHz (burst), you can expect 6-8 hours of battery life. That said, these things are thin, light, and have something like a 6 hour battery life. Its obviously going to get replaced by brasswell. You might also find one with a quad core atom chip, but those are supposed to be lower end processors. They're fanless and run pretty cool. *You can't* find any modern sub 1ghz processors, but these things are insanely efficient, and probably give you less heat and battery life than the older atoms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32gb of storage built in - which is a weakness compared to a proper olderschool netbook. It should be enough for your use though. While a chunk of that is the recovery console, part of your OS is stored there, compressed and read only to save space. This is EMMC and on mine, it benchmarks faster than spinning rust, but slower than a typical SD card. This is what I got on the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They come with windows for bing (which is essentially exactly the same as windows 8 home. I did a install of windows 10 without keeping any of the original data, and it works great with it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 11 inch screen with a fairly thick bezel. That said, its lighter and thinner than my dad's mini 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ram's soldered on I believe. I have 2gb of it on mine, and that's typical for the class&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the specifics of the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its actually got one of the better laptop keyboards I've typed on, and for a chiclet keyboard, very usable. The extra screen size also gets you a less cramped keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Build quality is solid. I throw it in a pretty cheap, thin sleeve (and for 2 weeks, wrapped it in a cloth shopping bag...), throw it in my backpack, and use it while commuting. Its still in perfect condition. This is surprising considering HP's reputation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can get it in any colour you want as long as its pink or blue. Its matte plastic, and stickers stick to the outside well (which is an important thing for a hacker system!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- screen's matte and 1366x768. Its not a *great* screen, but it works well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- one USB 3.0 port, one USB 2.0 port, HDMI out. Its not a lot, but there's only so much you can cram in a system that small. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've managed to get fedora running on it without needing to change anything (since it has secure boot enabled, and I was too lazy to turn it off). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not quite a plug for my blog but the images here, and a more complete review of my stream 11 can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?eSpotName=Stream11&amp;storeId=10151&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-S20-30-Netbook-Review.130285.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/X1bg5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/J4jmq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/esffj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://journeymangeek.com/index.php/new-hardware-mini-review-the-hp-stream-11/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2591" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="618" RevisionGUID="abe1132a-0baa-442f-a2eb-cc9d54a06288" CreationDate="2015-10-19T06:31:36.617" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 90 characters in body" Text="There's chromebook class &quot;windows for bing&quot; boxen that fit most of your needs. I'm pretty happy with my [HP stream 11][1] and there's a new, lighter version coming out soon. [Lenovo][2] has a similar system and I seem to remember dell did (tho the smallest screen I can find is 15 inches) and there may be others so most of this talks about the current (2014) and future generations of these. MS is actually pushing this class of systems in competition with chromebooks, and least with mine, the freebies basically covered half the cost of the system, including a year of office 365.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These things are typical for the class.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a low end bay trail celeron 2840. While it is 2 cores at 2.16 GHz to 2.58 GHz (burst), you can expect 6-8 hours of battery life. That said, these things are thin, light, and have something like a 6 hour battery life. Its obviously going to get replaced by brasswell. You might also find one with a quad core atom chip, but those are supposed to be lower end processors. They're fanless and run pretty cool. *You can't* find any modern sub 1ghz processors, but these things are insanely efficient, and probably give you less heat and battery life than the older atoms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32gb of storage built in - which is a weakness compared to a proper olderschool netbook. It should be enough for your use though. While a chunk of that is the recovery console, part of your OS is stored there, compressed and read only to save space. This is EMMC and on mine, it benchmarks faster than spinning rust, but slower than a typical SD card. This is what I got on the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They come with windows for bing (which is essentially exactly the same as windows 8 home. Upgrading to windows 10 is doable, but I had some issues with the touchpad driver. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 11 inch screen with a fairly thick bezel. That said, its lighter and thinner than my dad's Dell mini 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ram's soldered on I believe. I have 2gb of it on mine, and that's typical for the class&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the specifics of the stream 11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its actually got one of the better laptop keyboards I've typed on, and for a chiclet keyboard, very usable. The extra screen size also gets you a less cramped keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Build quality is solid. I throw it in a pretty cheap, thin sleeve (and for 2 weeks, wrapped it in a cloth shopping bag...), throw it in my backpack, and use it while commuting. Its still in perfect condition. This is surprising considering HP's reputation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can get it in any colour you want as long as its pink or blue. Its matte plastic, and stickers stick to the outside well (which is an important thing for a hacker system!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- screen's matte and 1366x768. Its not a *great* screen, but it works well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- one USB 3.0 port, one USB 2.0 port, HDMI out. Its not a lot, but there's only so much you can cram in a system that small. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've managed to get fedora running on it without needing to change anything (since it has secure boot enabled, and I was too lazy to turn it off). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not quite a plug for my blog but the images here, and a more complete review of my stream 11 can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?eSpotName=Stream11&amp;storeId=10151&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-S20-30-Netbook-Review.130285.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/X1bg5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/J4jmq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/esffj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://journeymangeek.com/index.php/new-hardware-mini-review-the-hp-stream-11/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="0a86ecc5-4074-4721-99d2-82753a8ee340" CreationDate="2015-10-19T08:32:21.963" UserId="607" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that i just don’t like laptops! I have to get this cos for my current project i need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work there. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future. I do have an older desktop (AMD Athlon 3200+) which i will upgrade soon enough.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand i dont want to waste money (even the smallest amount) to a laptop that will be carbage in a year or so. If i have it i will use it, for as long as it goes.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my main jobs are done in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what i have read around these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD, since (again from what i understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If i am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that i am in Greece, and i have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a descent one that will last for some years(thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4 for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most i have seen come with HD not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since i will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- cost: It will be hard to help me on this one, since prices are much different in every country, but i am guessing something in the range 500-600Euros (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question :)&#xD;&#xA;a i3 with SSD is as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that i trust) told me that, but i am not so sure i believe it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2593" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="0a86ecc5-4074-4721-99d2-82753a8ee340" CreationDate="2015-10-19T08:32:21.963" UserId="607" Text="a descent laptop for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2594" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="0a86ecc5-4074-4721-99d2-82753a8ee340" CreationDate="2015-10-19T08:32:21.963" UserId="607" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2595" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="e5f8ffec-bb46-4c78-96d5-2b6a8103d973" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:04:39.910" UserId="313" Comment="Minor edits" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this cos for my current project I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work there. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future. I do have an older desktop (AMD Athlon 3200+) which I will upgrade soon enough.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) to a laptop that will be carbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it goes.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my main jobs are done in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years(thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4 for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the range 500-600Euros (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question :)&#xD;&#xA;An i3 with SSD is as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2596" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="e5f8ffec-bb46-4c78-96d5-2b6a8103d973" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:04:39.910" UserId="313" Comment="Minor edits" Text="a decent laptop for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2597" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="e5f8ffec-bb46-4c78-96d5-2b6a8103d973" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:04:39.910" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 607 edit id of 198" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="712" RevisionGUID="e0c37229-ab50-43e1-a080-7ab6ffdebaa0" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:05:41.973" UserId="550" Text="I am looking for a smartphone which I can easily use as mass storage device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably without installing extra drivers, Kies or other extra software.&#xD;&#xA;I am using UMS for playing audio/video files (which are stored on the smartphone device) directly on desktop PCs, for batch copying/extracting/converting (eg. using foobar2000), or for simple drag and drop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some serious candidates were these smartphones so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Galaxy Note Edge&#xD;&#xA;- Sony Xperia Z3 (oder Z3 Compact)&#xD;&#xA;- Motorola Moto X Play (oder Style)&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Galaxy Note 4&#xD;&#xA;- OnePlus 2&#xD;&#xA;- OnePlus 1&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Galaxy S6&#xD;&#xA;- Lenovo Zuk Z1&#xD;&#xA;- LG G4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to activate UMS on my Samsung Galaxy S3 but it never really worked out, so I hope with one of these (or similar equipped) smartphones there is UMS already built in. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="712" RevisionGUID="e0c37229-ab50-43e1-a080-7ab6ffdebaa0" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:05:41.973" UserId="550" Text="Smartphones with UMS (mass storage) support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="712" RevisionGUID="e0c37229-ab50-43e1-a080-7ab6ffdebaa0" CreationDate="2015-10-19T09:05:41.973" UserId="550" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2602" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="628" RevisionGUID="c2f19b30-3f00-4822-8994-a80c1c49255a" CreationDate="2015-10-19T10:18:10.293" UserId="342" Comment="added 315 characters in body" Text="although the answer from @JuanCarlosCoto was already accepted, I still must disagree on one point &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ..Bear in mind that whatever external fans you may feasibly buy and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; install will provide much less efficient cooling than an internal&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external fan, providing that is is not a blow-fan or fan pad , but an exhaust fan type, can be extremely effective  - in fact much more than an internal one due to a much bigger facet surface and possibility to work in much higher speeds .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Exhaust type fans** ( sometimes called **Vacuum Air Extracting fans**  ) , as opposed to blow-fans or pads, work on a different concept. they are actually sucking heat from the regular exhaust grill , instead of blowing air inside ( or in case of the pads - blowing air on the surfaces of the body ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Typology examples][1] from google images  ( but searching for the above terms will yield the same for your favorite search engine )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doing that - they are actually taking advantage of the integral / original aerodynamic and airflow design of the laptop, causing the air to enter and flow over the heat-sink / the processor / GPU in a ,much higher volume / minute capacity ( CMq/sec ) all that through the original air ducts .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Several of my laptops have a desktop CPU combined with metal body and  and are really hot at times , in fact - so hot that I was more than once inflected with a heat burn ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the cooling pads I have tried were somewhat of a hoax , never had any real influence ( 3-5 degrees Celsius ) - except making noise .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But when I found exhaust fans - the effect was extreme . &#xD;&#xA;In my tests , on an HP 8560p , after activating an exhaust fan the temperature on the integrated CPU sensor dropped 30 degrees in 20 sec ( 70's to 40's ) with immediate effect ( meaning the drop started in 1-2 seconds !! ) &#xD;&#xA;The  second drop took some more time ( about a minute ) but it was so efficient , that the fan had to be stopped due to over - cooling now ! &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The test was made with a 10,000 max RPM external exhaust fan with 2 automatic adjustable speeds and 125.15CFM ( cubic feet / minute ) or 3.54 CCM ( Cubic Meter / minute ) sized 165×80×48MM 1.9W and cost 8$ !! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another advantage is that these type of fans do not insert dust into your laptop like blow fans, but actually sucking the dust out ! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the best part - they are really cheap, and much more portable than the pads .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com.hk/search?q=exhaust%20vacuum%20laptop&amp;safe=active&amp;espv=2&amp;biw=1366&amp;bih=600&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMInNi086bOyAIVIxumCh0W5Ane" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2603" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="714" RevisionGUID="c6f10bf9-ff8a-42fc-83ad-386aa93f587e" CreationDate="2015-10-19T13:27:26.923" UserId="609" Text="There are plenty of USB docks but the couple I have experimented with present UDB/pseudo devices in place of legacy ports like com and parallel. More modern applications can work with those just fine for something simple like printers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I am working with software that is used to interface with airplanes that was designed with MSDOS 6.22 and Windows 98. I have been lucky and using Dell Latitude E-Series laptops that support this legacy dock...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Legacy E-Dock][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking into updating these laptops and it does not appear that newer models have a similar legacy dock. So USB would be the easier route to go but I need the replicator to present the ports as true physical ports to the OS so that they can be passed to virtual machines. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/voQ9g.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2604" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="714" RevisionGUID="c6f10bf9-ff8a-42fc-83ad-386aa93f587e" CreationDate="2015-10-19T13:27:26.923" UserId="609" Text="USB dock that presents COM/Parallel port as physical ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2605" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="714" RevisionGUID="c6f10bf9-ff8a-42fc-83ad-386aa93f587e" CreationDate="2015-10-19T13:27:26.923" UserId="609" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="1af062b9-4144-400b-80bf-f659a7d72d98" CreationDate="2015-10-19T13:41:35.813" UserId="57" Comment="copy edits" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the range 500-600Euros (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;An i3 with SSD is as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="83e04d76-22fc-4e91-b250-144e9a861c0d" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:08:50.987" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the 500-600 Euro range (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Is an i3 with SSD is as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2609" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="83e04d76-22fc-4e91-b250-144e9a861c0d" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:08:50.987" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title" Text="Programming laptop available in Greece?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2610" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="83e04d76-22fc-4e91-b250-144e9a861c0d" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:08:50.987" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 8, 57 edit id of 199" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="a0fb7861-8150-40db-b9ca-17ff9d91c73a" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:14:50.857" UserId="607" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the 500-600 Euro range (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Is an i3 with SSD as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="553" RevisionGUID="cd473165-258d-4a9f-875a-1010aac3540a" CreationDate="2015-10-19T20:46:09.300" UserId="478" Comment="Added note about survivorship bias and durability criteria in absence of a warranty." Text="It seems these days people (and thus laptop manufacturers) don't care about how long a laptop lasts for, since I guess they don't care how wasteful it is to buy a new one every year or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I do. I realise that depending on my buying choices, I could spend about the same amount of money getting cheap laptops every three years rather than a durable laptop every ten years. This isn't about money. This is about reducing my ecological footprint and my electronic waste. (Actually, it *would* be about money if the [hidden environmental costs][1] of manufacturing an extra two laptops per person every ten years were properly accounted for by our governments through regulation. But they aren't. So, I'll have to do the accounting myself.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An honest person will admit that high-powered games notwithstanding, laptops have been doing largely the same thing for about ten years and there actually hasn't been a real need to increase performance for a long while, in spite of what the laptop manufacturers and microsoft may say. That's why I think ten years is a fair target to set for my next laptop's lifetime. Is there any laptop with a warranty that comes close to that? What's the best there is right now? Are there some older (2 years maybe) laptops that, though their warranty may not cover continued use, have withstood the test of time and are known for their durability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current one—an IBM Thinkpad X40—is actually about that old now. Though it still works *amazingly* well, due to the general sloppiness of the people writing the more mainstream software I have to run a lightweight Linux distribution (archlinux) on it to get reasonably good performance. This is becoming increasingly annoying. Hence this search for a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in summary,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. ~10 year lifetime. With warranty would be preferred, but I realise that is just about impossible in this industry at the moment. Without a warranty, the *lowest 2-year failure rate possible* will have to suffice. Anecdotal first-hand experience suffers from survivorship bias (just think Apple fanboy effect), so such advice isn't reliable.&#xD;&#xA; - Suitable for general use, i.e. WWW with javascript, HTML5 and video, which is about the hardest thing this laptop would ever have to do. Any new high-powered games are completely unnecessary, and probably impossible in any case, since I'd be running Linux.&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running Linux. This one is virtually guaranteed, though, so don't discount a certain machine you have in mind because you're not sure about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other things that make a good laptop—good battery life, low price, nice and light, etc. All this is nice, but strictly optional, especially since many compete *directly* with reliability and durability, especially price and weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_full-cost_accounting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="92" RevisionGUID="c7639018-10c6-446d-930c-abf014667cac" CreationDate="2015-10-19T21:07:29.060" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links." Text="[From Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_cooling#Advantages):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  The advantages of using water cooling over air cooling include water's higher specific heat capacity, density, and thermal conductivity. This allows water to transmit heat over greater distances with much less volumetric flow and reduced temperature difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For cooling CPU cores in computing equipment, the primary advantage of water cooling is that its tremendously increased ability to transport heat away from source to a secondary cooling surface allows for large, more optimally designed radiators rather than small, inefficient fins mounted directly on the heat source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically it can be beneficial when some of computer components get too hot (overclocking, warm room, etc.), as it is more efficient than  air coolers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for noise, see this nice [benchmark](http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4363/17/20-liquid-cooling-sets-group-test-better-than-air-test-results-noise-levels):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; With fans on low speed, liquid coolers are not able to stay as silent as the quietest state-of-the-art air coolers. Some air coolers can maintain 25 dB(A) or less at a 10 centimeter distance, while the most silent water cooler (Corsair H55) creates 31 dB of noise. Only three liquid coolers stay below 35 dB(A) which is virtually inaudible: the H55, the Antec H20 920 (the original version!) and the Corsair H60. The Corsair H100i and H80i don't go below 40 dB(A), which isn't that loud but also not very quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ecS8f.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWhTP.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="92" RevisionGUID="c7639018-10c6-446d-930c-abf014667cac" CreationDate="2015-10-19T21:07:29.060" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 40 edit id of 202" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2618" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="573" RevisionGUID="530bbfef-8f92-4ab0-8c45-8bbba2ee004f" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:54:58.560" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links." Text="Generally the performance of brand name SSD's will meet all your criteria and be comparable from an end users perspective, the Samsung 850 EVO has been well received and can be had for £67 currently on [Amazon]( http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P736UEU/?tag=hotukdealsnl-21).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2619" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="573" RevisionGUID="530bbfef-8f92-4ab0-8c45-8bbba2ee004f" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:54:58.560" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 57, 155 edit id of 201" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="696" RevisionGUID="33c69957-cef6-438d-8be3-cd13209f36eb" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:55:45.420" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links." Text="Although this is a *lot* more powerful than you have asked for, for $195 you can pick up a used Lenovo X220 with a dual core 2.5Ghz i5-2520m off Ebay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![x220 image][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 12&quot; 1366x768 display&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 Pro OEM licence&#xD;&#xA;- No optical drive&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB DDR3 RAM, mine only had one slot used too&#xD;&#xA;- MSATA SSD support&#xD;&#xA;- 250GB standard HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Quite easy to find one with ~6h battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got one a few months ago to take to college with me, and it can quite happily handle anything you would ever want to throw at an ultraportable (hell, video editing is even doable if you are patient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, they are near enough bullet proof, in true ThinkPad style. Mine has fallen out of my bag straight onto tarmac on its corner from ~1m, granted you can see some of the black matte coating has worn off so you can see the shiny metal, but it still works just fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpoint is fantastic on an ultraportable, the matte screen is great as is the trademark ThinkPad keyboard. More ports than you know what to do with: 3 USB 2.0, SD slot, VGA, DisplayPort, ExpressCard (!?), fingerprint and an easily replaceable battery unlike some new laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have Windows 10 and Linux dual booting on mine (have put an SSD in it) and it really flies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Certainly worth having a look at [EBay](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X220-Laptop-12-5-Intel-Core-i5-2-50GHz-4GB-250GB-Windows-7-Pro-/272014680700).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/i0EdM.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2621" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="696" RevisionGUID="33c69957-cef6-438d-8be3-cd13209f36eb" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:55:45.420" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 57, 155 edit id of 200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2625" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="663" RevisionGUID="5875d021-2860-447e-977c-52387ea558ac" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:56:53.027" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links. Provide disclaimer to opinionated sentences." Text="Apple's Magic Mouse and Magic Trackpad are awesome, super silent: [Here is a link](http://www.apple.com/de/magic-accessories/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's connected via wireless. In my experience, it has worked for two years without failing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2626" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="663" RevisionGUID="5875d021-2860-447e-977c-52387ea558ac" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:56:53.027" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 57, -1 edit id of 203" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="663" RevisionGUID="da9ef596-2999-4baa-b5d6-06a803021aeb" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:56:53.027" UserId="155" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links. Provide disclaimer to opinionated sentences." Text="Apple's [Magic Mouse and Magic Trackpad](http://www.apple.com/de/magic-accessories/) are awesome, super silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's connected via wireless. In my experience, it has worked for two years without failing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="e9757002-a88d-4695-92df-7b8f4491c0ae" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:41:17.630" UserId="615" Text="After having a smartphone for a while, (for many reasons irrelevant to this question) I decided to go back to a &quot;dumbphone&quot;/&quot;feature phone&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got a relatively cheap Telstra T96 feature phone about a year and a half ago, and I now know I want to stay with feature phones/dumbphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the T96 is good and all, but it has a few issues (including randomly disconnecting the SD card when trying to use it, and occasionally restarting itself), and ultimately was bought as a test. Soon, possibly within 12 months, I'll be purchasing a new dumbphone, and recycle the T96. Understandably, I'm finding it difficult to look for the type of phone I would like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a list of things I'd like in a new phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A relatively recent model.&#xD;&#xA; - Will keep going and going. I.e. I'd like this new phone to be one I'm still able to use 10+ years down the track, even if that includes having to swap out the battery every now and then for a new one when the old one stops holding its charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. Under $50 AUD is best, but under $100 AUD I can work with.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in, or ordered into, Australia.&#xD;&#xA; - Rugged:&#xD;&#xA; 1. can withstand being dropped on hard surfaces.&#xD;&#xA; 2. can withstand sub-zero (celcius, i.e. freezing) temperatures.&#xD;&#xA; 3. waterproof would be best, but water-resistant is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons instead of touch screen.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to use (not sure why a feature phone wouldn't be, but thought it best to put this dot-point in).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not required, but bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SD card slot (I.e. if there's a phone out there which has almost everything else, but no SD card slot, I can probably compromise).&#xD;&#xA; - Can play music (from SD card, if slot is available).&#xD;&#xA; - Standard headphone audio jack.&#xD;&#xA; - A camera (of whatever quality).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? From your particular recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any of the requirements, and/or has additional features not stated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case it's relevant, I live in Australia, and want to stay with/on the Telstra network (so Telstra only, or unlocked phones, are both fine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2629" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="e9757002-a88d-4695-92df-7b8f4491c0ae" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:41:17.630" UserId="615" Text="New, affordable, rugged &quot;Dumbphone&quot; to last as long as possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2630" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="e9757002-a88d-4695-92df-7b8f4491c0ae" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:41:17.630" UserId="615" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2631" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="7e87254b-8ef6-458a-8a64-4e57a35d23b9" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:48:58.433" UserId="615" Comment="Removed unnecessary paragraphs." Text="Long story short, I'm looking to buy a new feature phone/dumbphone, possibly within the next 12 months. However, I'm finding it difficult to find dumbphones due to my list of preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a list of things I'd like in a new phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A relatively recent model.&#xD;&#xA; - Will keep going and going. I.e. I'd like this new phone to be one I'm still able to use 10+ years down the track, even if that includes having to swap out the battery every now and then for a new one when the old one stops holding its charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. Under $50 AUD is best, but under $100 AUD I can work with.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in, or ordered into, Australia.&#xD;&#xA; - Rugged:&#xD;&#xA; 1. can withstand being dropped on hard surfaces.&#xD;&#xA; 2. can withstand sub-zero (celcius, i.e. freezing) temperatures.&#xD;&#xA; 3. waterproof would be best, but water-resistant is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons instead of touch screen.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to use (not sure why a feature phone wouldn't be, but thought it best to put this dot-point in).&#xD;&#xA; - Telstra specific *or* unlocked.&#xD;&#xA; - Will work on Australian network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not required, but bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reception in remote regions - though I suppose this depends on the network I'm with?&#xD;&#xA; - SD card slot (I.e. if there's a phone out there which has almost everything else, but no SD card slot, I can probably compromise).&#xD;&#xA; - Can play music (from SD card, if slot is available).&#xD;&#xA; - Standard headphone audio jack.&#xD;&#xA; - A camera (of whatever quality).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? Even a recommendation which meets most of the preferences, but not quite all? From your recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any particular preference(s), and/or has additional features not stated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="f79b803a-eec8-4793-869e-51504203b959" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:58:31.533" UserId="615" Comment="Added battery life preference." Text="Long story short, I'm looking to buy a new feature phone/dumbphone, possibly within the next 12 months. However, I'm finding it difficult to find dumbphones due to my list of preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a list of things I'd like in a new phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A relatively recent model.&#xD;&#xA; - Will keep going and going. I.e. I'd like this new phone to be one I'm still able to use 10+ years down the track, even if that includes having to swap out the battery every now and then for a new one when the old one stops holding its charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. Under $50 AUD is best, but under $100 AUD I can work with.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in, or ordered into, Australia.&#xD;&#xA; - Rugged:&#xD;&#xA; 1. can withstand being dropped on hard surfaces.&#xD;&#xA; 2. can withstand sub-zero (celcius, i.e. freezing) temperatures.&#xD;&#xA; 3. waterproof would be best, but water-resistant is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons instead of touch screen.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to use (not sure why a feature phone wouldn't be, but thought it best to put this dot-point in).&#xD;&#xA; - Telstra specific *or* unlocked.&#xD;&#xA; - Will work on Australian network.&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not required, but bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reception in remote regions - though I suppose this depends on the network I'm with?&#xD;&#xA; - SD card slot (I.e. if there's a phone out there which has almost everything else, but no SD card slot, I can probably compromise).&#xD;&#xA; - Can play music (from SD card, if slot is available).&#xD;&#xA; - Standard headphone audio jack.&#xD;&#xA; - A camera (of whatever quality).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? Even a recommendation which meets most of the preferences, but not quite all? From your recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any particular preference(s), and/or has additional features not stated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="717" RevisionGUID="f4b6e1d7-b1b2-44fc-97fc-3367ebdb89a8" CreationDate="2015-10-20T02:48:08.380" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2634" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="718" RevisionGUID="256dc98c-6b3c-4422-82d9-b10b979e2e78" CreationDate="2015-10-20T02:48:08.380" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2638" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="720" RevisionGUID="15583bd3-5ff8-4817-9ca2-68565b8c4471" CreationDate="2015-10-20T05:57:55.943" UserId="531" Text="Thinkpads are pretty much your best choice here. I'd go for a basic, mainstream series like T series (over the X series or the W series), since they're a bit more reasonably priced. I'd go with a model without nvida graphics, simply cause a simpler model has *less things to fail*. I've run R series (the old 'cheaper' version of the T series) for years, and the build quality's generally been fine. *Avoid* the E series, they don't have many of the awesome features a proper thinkpad has. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got 3, one old one, one even older one that I essentially inherited, and one more that's relatively recent, and all run fine. I do believe I also have one that's certainly over 10 years that ought to be usable up if the HDD isn't dead. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 10 year laptop isn't going to be without *minor* issues. You're probably going to want the option to upgrade it, and/or replace parts over time. Thinkpads are essentially designed such that many/most parts that *could* fail over the lifetime of the system are replaceable easily.  Thinkpads are about the most *maintainable* latops on the market. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My R61's almost at 10 years Its pretty much stock, though I'm pondering replacing the drive with a SSD. With a thinkpad, you can upgrade or replace ram as needed without tearing the whole box apart. (my r61 could use a little more ram, I've only got 1gb.). I've upgraded it from XP to windows 7 to windows 10, and it runs fine, and very usably (I'm just spoiled by my newer systems). The old girl has *legs*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a *few* parts however that might be tricky. Batteries last about 2-3 years. Lenovo seems to use fairly standard external battery packs and a quick check on google suggests they're available online. If your laptop's a desktop diva its another story. The yellow charging ports on pre USB 3.0 models tended to break for me. I ended up supergluing it back on and its been fine since. The usb 3.0 models ought to be fine, since they replace the charging port with a USB 3.0 port, and they don't use the crappy plastic of d00m. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No matter what you get, a proper thinkpad's going to be a *mechanically* solid, troublefree unit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="430818ac-4e3c-4c05-9677-2ccaf17ba3a9" CreationDate="2015-10-20T06:05:37.290" UserId="615" Text="Well, my [Klipsch Image S4][1] earphones broke yesterday. Had them for at least 4 years I think, and I put them through their paces, so it's understandable. They were amazing for their price though, and will be sorely missed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm saving quite heavily at the moment, and don't have another $90+ AUD to spare on another set of headphones for a while to come, hence me coming here. I'd like a recommendation for a good, but super-cheap pair of headphones, to get me through until I have some more disposable income next year or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Comfort ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably as comfortable as possible, especially for long periods. Over-the-head bands need to be padded, or else I really feel it on the top of my head after hours of having them on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over-the-ears clips also bug me after long periods, but if you happen to have a recommendation for over-the-ears headphones which don't feel like they're cutting into where your ear connects to your head after hours of use, please feel free to share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Noise-cancelling (preferred) ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for the price I'm looking at right now, this may be pushing it more than a little. But the main time I used my S4's was when I really needed to concentrate on a big project at work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This isn't a huge requirement, as having music to listen to at all can help me concentrate at times, even if it has to be played barely-audibly to make sure I'm not annoying co-workers. But if by some miracle there are cheap headphones out there which have *any* kind of noise-cancelling, I'd love to hear about it - both so I'm not annoying anyone, and so I can play my music at more than whisper-volume.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Stereo ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stereo sound, not mono. Probably accounts for almost all headphones/earphones nowadays, but again, considering my price range, it's worth saying this explicitly. I have many songs I love listening to partly because of just how well they utilise each individual speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big one. I'd love something less than $10 AUD. To get the above features I could *probably* go up to $25 AUD. But less is definitely better for me right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a huge fan of good sound quality, but just for now (until I'm able to splurge on something else) I'm willing to put sound quality on the back-burner. Of course, all the above preferences being equal, I'd love to hear in any answer what kind of sound quality the headphones do have. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.klipsch.com.au/image-s4-black-in-ear-headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2640" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="430818ac-4e3c-4c05-9677-2ccaf17ba3a9" CreationDate="2015-10-20T06:05:37.290" UserId="615" Text="Cheap yet good quality headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2641" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="430818ac-4e3c-4c05-9677-2ccaf17ba3a9" CreationDate="2015-10-20T06:05:37.290" UserId="615" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="cb9b61e0-033a-43a7-9c74-f8efc408f95c" CreationDate="2015-10-20T06:20:47.530" UserId="615" Comment="added 339 characters in body" Text="Well, my [Klipsch Image S4][1] earphones broke yesterday. Had them for at least 4 years I think, and I put them through their paces, so it's understandable. They were amazing for their price though, and will be sorely missed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm saving quite heavily at the moment, and don't have another $90+ AUD to spare on another set of headphones for a while to come, hence me coming here. I'd like a recommendation for a good, but super-cheap pair of headphones, to get me through until I have some more disposable income next year or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Comfort ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably as comfortable as possible, especially for long periods. Over-the-head bands need to be padded, or else I really feel it on the top of my head after hours of having them on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over-the-ears clips also bug me after long periods, but if you happen to have a recommendation for over-the-ears headphones which don't feel like they're cutting into where your ear connects to your head after hours of use, please feel free to share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Noise-cancelling (preferred) ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for the price I'm looking at right now, this may be pushing it more than a little. But the main time I used my S4's was when I really needed to concentrate on a big project at work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This isn't a huge requirement, as having music to listen to at all can help me concentrate at times, even if it has to be played barely-audibly to make sure I'm not annoying co-workers. But if by some miracle there are cheap headphones out there which have *any* kind of noise-cancelling, I'd love to hear about it - both so I'm not annoying anyone, and so I can play my music at more than whisper-volume.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Stereo ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stereo sound, not mono. Probably accounts for almost all headphones/earphones nowadays, but again, considering my price range, it's worth saying this explicitly. I have many songs I love listening to partly because of just how well they utilise each individual speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big one. I'd love something less than $10 AUD. To get the above features I could *probably* go up to $25 AUD. But less is definitely better for me right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a huge fan of good sound quality, but just for now (until I'm able to splurge on something else) I'm willing to put sound quality on the back-burner. Of course, all the above preferences being equal, I'd love to hear in any answer what kind of sound quality the headphones do have. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edited to add: I'm sure everyone can pick up on my locality from the fact that I keep saying &quot;AUD&quot;. But just to be clear: These should be able to be bought/ordered from within Australia. If I have to order them internationally, that may be okay. But please note in your answer if you think I'll need to order them from another country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.klipsch.com.au/image-s4-black-in-ear-headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="722" RevisionGUID="438fa52a-2e0e-479f-9dae-889e7340fb53" CreationDate="2015-10-20T10:35:34.613" UserId="508" Text="JVC XX In-ear headphones all the way! Had 2 pairs so far because I lost the first one. Highly recommended!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Dirt cheap&#xD;&#xA; 2. Ok sound&#xD;&#xA; 3. Good noise cancelling&#xD;&#xA; 4. Heavy bass&#xD;&#xA; 5. Very durable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.jvc.co.uk/product.php?id=HA-FX1X-E" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="723" RevisionGUID="5d1328f6-829a-4e75-aeab-4a43cc4ccf0a" CreationDate="2015-10-20T10:42:32.160" UserId="508" Text="Skroutz is your friend :-P &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5 5200U 2.2GHz CPU&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; LED LCD screen&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.skroutz.gr/s/6738402/Lenovo-G50-80-i5-5200U-4GB-1TB-W8.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="722" RevisionGUID="93504ba3-78eb-4569-8195-bdb63bc53ab4" CreationDate="2015-10-20T13:35:47.633" UserId="313" Comment="Added hyperlink" Text="[JVC XX In-ear headphones][1] all the way! Had 2 pairs so far because I lost the first one. Highly recommended!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Dirt cheap&#xD;&#xA; 2. Ok sound&#xD;&#xA; 3. Good noise cancelling&#xD;&#xA; 4. Heavy bass&#xD;&#xA; 5. Very durable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.jvc.co.uk/product.php?id=HA-FX1X-E" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2646" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="722" RevisionGUID="93504ba3-78eb-4569-8195-bdb63bc53ab4" CreationDate="2015-10-20T13:35:47.633" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 57, 508 edit id of 206" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="e3b13c50-8cbe-4dc3-80b3-7adc5052739d" CreationDate="2015-10-20T16:42:10.477" UserId="6" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;united-states&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="724" RevisionGUID="d8328102-8d0b-4a0f-a0c1-3144f1fd3e09" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:05:44.383" UserId="82" Text="I recommend a 15&quot; Macbook pro w/retina!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has all of the specs you desire because it is exactly the same hardware.  Apple hardware is completely capable of running Windows and using [bootcamp][1] you can install and boot directly into it.  There is a cost to this, because you will need install media of Windows 8 or later and a corresponding license to complete the windows install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't suggest this as a joke.  The build quality, battery life, and trackpad are going to be hard to rival and if you don't need fancy extras like a touchscreen the hardware you already have is a great option for running Windows.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize a Macbook Pro isn't sold as a &quot;windows laptop&quot;, and might not exactly fit your request, but the only difference in that regard is that the laptop is not bundled with a pre-installed, licensed, copy of windows. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201468" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="d2377bb6-8c59-4b0c-af81-ebeb5fb84c76" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:48:51.620" UserId="620" Text="This might sound a little bit science-fiction or futuristic:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a keyboard of which keys are not physically labeled, but labeled with small LEDs inside them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my problem: The country that I live in uses a different layout than EN-US Q keyboard. It includes some special characters, like any other country does not speak English.&#xD;&#xA;However, I write scientific papers in English and I am very comfortable when coding with an EN-US layout.&#xD;&#xA;In addition, I will soon move to a completely different country for my education. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these being said, I would like to buy a keyboard whose keys are not physically determined.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any keyboard that fits the following?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- When I change the layout, the keys automatically adapts and changes accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;- With wide enter key.&#xD;&#xA;- With numpad.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably with extra function keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is none and you are working in a firm that produces keyboards, I can assure you that I will happily be a tester if you produce that kind of keyboard. Moreover, I will probably buy a dozen of them to use for my life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To make myself more clear, the keyboard I am looking for is just like a smartphone keyboard. But not like a screen. An actual keyboard whose keys are small screens. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2650" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="d2377bb6-8c59-4b0c-af81-ebeb5fb84c76" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:48:51.620" UserId="620" Text="Keyboard with changing layout" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2651" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="d2377bb6-8c59-4b0c-af81-ebeb5fb84c76" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:48:51.620" UserId="620" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2652" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="d7f44950-5bde-4b3e-854c-c6e61db88828" CreationDate="2015-10-20T20:22:43.620" UserId="620" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="This might sound a little bit science-fiction or futuristic:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a keyboard of which keys are not physically labeled, but labeled with small LEDs inside them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my problem: The country that I live in uses a different layout than EN-US Q keyboard. It includes some special characters, like any other country that does not speak English.&#xD;&#xA;However, I write scientific papers in English and I am very comfortable when coding with an EN-US layout.&#xD;&#xA;In addition, I will soon move to a completely different country for my education. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these being said, I would like to buy a keyboard whose keys are not physically determined.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any keyboard that fits the following?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- When I change the layout, the keys automatically adapt and change accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;- With wide enter key.&#xD;&#xA;- With numpad.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably with extra function keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is none and you are working in a firm that produces keyboards, I can assure you that I will happily be a tester if you produce that kind of keyboard. Moreover, I will probably buy a dozen of them to use for my life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To make myself more clear, the keyboard I am looking for is just like a smartphone keyboard. But not like a screen. An actual keyboard whose keys are small screens. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2653" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="d6889b34-9264-40c8-abde-3e133b0d627d" CreationDate="2015-10-20T22:09:55.573" UserId="620" Comment="edited title" Text="Keyboard with dynamic keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2654" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="725" RevisionGUID="46e11e8e-cf5e-419d-acc7-7c9981f8923f" CreationDate="2015-10-20T23:05:53.873" UserId="620" Comment="added 213 characters in body" Text="This might sound a little bit science-fiction or futuristic:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a keyboard of which keys are not physically labeled, but labeled with small LEDs inside them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my problem: The country that I live in uses a different layout than EN-US Q keyboard. It includes some special characters, like any other country that does not speak English.&#xD;&#xA;However, I write scientific papers in English and I am very comfortable when coding with an EN-US layout.&#xD;&#xA;In addition, I will soon move to a completely different country for my education. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these being said, I would like to buy a keyboard whose keys are not physically determined.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any keyboard that fits the following?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- When I change the layout, the keys automatically adapt and change accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;- With wide enter key.&#xD;&#xA;- With numpad.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably with extra function keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is none and you are working in a firm that produces keyboards, I can assure you that I will happily be a tester if you produce that kind of keyboard. Moreover, I will probably buy a dozen of them to use for my life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To make myself more clear, the keyboard I am looking for is just like a smartphone keyboard. But not like a screen. An actual keyboard whose keys are small screens. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a keyboard just as I described. It is called [optimus popularis][1] and costs freaking 1425$!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I of course want something more affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/181d/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="726" RevisionGUID="6543b4ee-3182-4d49-a930-93f179079019" CreationDate="2015-10-20T23:23:48.413" UserId="531" Text="The [xiaomi piston 2.0/2.1][1] (there's a 3.0 model out at the moment) out but I've never used it before. I know folks have ordered a pair into australia, and ordered it off [ibuygou][2]. OP's mentioned [this model][3] which seems to be a plastic varient of the 3.0 (the 2.0/2.1 had these too), but I'll talk about the ones I do have. Xiaomi's headphones do typically punch above their weight pricewise so, its worth considering. Outside the &quot;its metal&quot; and possibily how it sounds like, many of these features are common across the product line. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cliff's notes version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Price: 20-30 usd depending. Got mine for 20 singapore dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   -  Good sound quality - Good enough. I've tried it on my *good* gear on a lark and it sounds fine. My phone/whatever google play transcodes it to seems to be the limitation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Reliability - I've had mine ~6 months I think. Its built solidly   &#xD;&#xA;   - Durability - Kevlar reinforced cables, sleeving on half of it. Place where the cable splits is protected by the remote. Earbuds and most of the fittings are milled aluminum. Jack looks solid too.  &#xD;&#xA;   - Comfort - Has different eartips to suit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;   - Isolation - Its decent, though the level of isolation would depend on the tips. I can wear them all day (but I don't!). In some ways good passive isolation (which works at any range) is better than ANR (which&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's the model I have anyway.  Reviews are [decent][5] and people tend to like it. And yes, they come with a case, rubber winding widget, and other shiny stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones are machined aluminium. Cable has a remote control and the length between the plug and controller's covered in a protective sheath, and are supposed to be kevlar reinforced. The headphones have great strain relief, and I've had mine for quite a while, daily use with no issues. Its built *seriously* solidly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll get 3 pairs of smooth earbud covers in different sizes and one flanged one, which is supposed to fit tighter.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality's decent, my phone's more of a limiting factor (I'm an audio snob). They're about as good as you'd get for the price range. It comes with that lovely rubber headphone holder and 'jewel case', and street price is ~30usd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remote control is below where the headphone splits. Its got 3 buttons, tho the volume buttons only work on some phones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, there's a lot of fakes of these so caveat emptor. I got mine from xiaomi directly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering I was going with super cheapie headphones since I killed quite a few, and this has surviced me, I'd say these are a hardy pair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mi.com/en/headphones/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ibuygou.com/p-original-xiaomi-piston-earphone-updated-version-brown-5708.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geekbuying.com/item/New-Original-Xiaomi-Piston-III-Youth-Edition-3-5mm-In-ear-Stereo-Earbud-Headphone-For-Xiaomi-Android-iPhone---Black-345070.html?utm_source=EMS&amp;utm_medium=EMSPD_Product_Link&amp;utm_campaign=EMSPD_Feed_345070&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oJ2Xc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.head-fi.org/products/xiaomi-pistons-2-0-mk301" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="d3bc82b0-25ed-483b-b520-f612663ecfad" CreationDate="2015-10-20T23:30:07.553" UserId="615" Comment="2g being retired soon requires update to preferences" Text="Long story short, I'm looking to buy a new feature phone/dumbphone, possibly within the next 12 months. However, I'm finding it difficult to find dumbphones due to my list of preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, a list of things I'd like in a new phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A relatively recent model.&#xD;&#xA; - Will keep going and going. I.e. I'd like this new phone to be one I'm still able to use 10+ years down the track, even if that includes having to swap out the battery every now and then for a new one when the old one stops holding its charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. Under $50 AUD is best, but under $100 AUD I can work with.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in, or ordered into, Australia.&#xD;&#xA; - Rugged:&#xD;&#xA; 1. can withstand being dropped on hard surfaces.&#xD;&#xA; 2. can withstand sub-zero (celcius, i.e. freezing) temperatures.&#xD;&#xA; 3. waterproof would be best, but water-resistant is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons instead of touch screen.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to use (not sure why a feature phone wouldn't be, but thought it best to put this dot-point in).&#xD;&#xA; - Telstra specific *or* unlocked.&#xD;&#xA; - Will work on Australian network.&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*EDITED TO ADD:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to work on 3G or higher, as Telstra will be decommisioning/retiring their 2G network [from 1st December, 2016][1] (thanks to Journeyman Geek for the tip-off). Other providers *may* be continuing their 2G network for a while after that, but it may not be for much longer, and I'd prefer to stay with Telstra if possible anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not required, but bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reception in remote regions - though I suppose this depends on the network I'm with?&#xD;&#xA; - SD card slot (I.e. if there's a phone out there which has almost everything else, but no SD card slot, I can probably compromise).&#xD;&#xA; - Can play music (from SD card, if slot is available).&#xD;&#xA; - Standard headphone audio jack.&#xD;&#xA; - A camera (of whatever quality).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? Even a recommendation which meets most of the preferences, but not quite all? From your recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any particular preference(s), and/or has additional features not stated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://crowdsupport.telstra.com.au/t5/Telstra-Product-Exits/DECOMMISSIONING-OUR-2G-GSM-900MHz-NETWORK/ba-p/440992" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="728" RevisionGUID="9b2f2bae-d3e7-468b-b562-37d021af4dee" CreationDate="2015-10-21T00:53:31.263" UserId="531" Text="Bit of an odd set of parts here, and you'd need to build it but... the  [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][1] would be a good start. Street prices seem to be around the 1000 usd range for the board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're like &quot;what is this witchcraft?&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a motherboard that's specifically designed for low power virtualisation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially you're getting a stripped down, low end xeon motherboard. Its SOC (so this is the processor and motherboard). Its DDR4 based, and will take 64 gb of normal and 128gb of RDIMMs ram - and you need ram for VMs and that many chrome tabs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This specific model has a heatsink and a fan - many other models have a passive heatsink so this is more suitable for 'desktop' use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However while being a server board, you get shiny things like m2. You also get *dual* gigabit ethernet slots *and* out of band management through IPMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why this over a regular motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Corecount - It's probably pretty hard to get this many cores at this price point. And this isn't an atom processor like the avaton. Its also cheaper than the enthusiast models I believe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Its mini itx, but has a load of sata ports, but not much else. If you need tons of expanston, go somewhere else. You can throw this into a mini itx box with decent cooling and have a ton of power for not much space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. IPMI support can be useful&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drawbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wierd formfactor, not much room for upgrading, and availability isn't *great*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I was building a system for the most bang for my buck, this is where I'd start.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note if I do end up doing this, I'd probably look at whether there's a skylake based varient out on the xeon D. At the moment tho, this looks like what I'd go with. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/xeon/d/X10SDV-8C_-LN2F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="728" RevisionGUID="e58e6463-55dd-4ed2-806f-0e8bbd134510" CreationDate="2015-10-21T01:04:02.633" UserId="531" Comment="added 219 characters in body" Text="Bit of an odd set of parts here, and you'd need to build it but... the  [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][1] would be a good start. Street prices seem to be around the 1000 usd range for the board. The xeon-d in general seems to be a great choice for this kind of workload, and this specific model seems best suited to stick inside a 'regular' desktop case since it has a cooler with a fan, as opposed to the passive cooling that the other models have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're like &quot;what is this witchcraft?&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a motherboard that's specifically designed for low power virtualisation. It uses a SOC varient of the xeon processor sssentially you're getting a stripped down, low end xeon motherboard and processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its DDR4 based, and will take 64 gb of normal and 128gb of RDIMMs ram - and you need ram for VMs and that many chrome tabs. You could also stick a regular video card into this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However while being a server board, you get shiny things like m2. You also get *dual* gigabit ethernet slots *and* out of band management through IPMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why this over a regular motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Corecount - It's probably pretty hard to get this many cores at this price point. And this isn't an atom processor like the avaton. Its also cheaper than the enthusiast models I believe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Its mini itx, but has a load of sata ports, but not much else. If you need tons of expanston, go somewhere else. You can throw this into a mini itx box with decent cooling and have a ton of power for not much space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. IPMI support can be useful&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drawbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wierd formfactor, not much room for upgrading, and availability isn't *great*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I was building a system for the most bang for my buck, this is where I'd start.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note if I do end up doing this, I'd probably look at whether there's a skylake based varient out on the xeon D. At the moment tho, this looks like what I'd go with. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/xeon/d/X10SDV-8C_-LN2F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="728" RevisionGUID="4c516933-60dc-44d7-9622-ed45920b6bc8" CreationDate="2015-10-21T01:11:07.743" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="Bit of an odd set of parts here, and you'd need to build it but... the  [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][1] would be a good start. Street prices seem to be around the 1000 usd range for the board. The xeon-d in general seems to be a great choice for this kind of workload, and this specific model seems best suited to stick inside a 'regular' desktop case since it has a cooler with a fan, as opposed to the passive cooling that the other models have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're like &quot;what is this witchcraft?&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a motherboard that's specifically designed for low power virtualisation. It uses a SOC varient of the xeon processor sssentially you're getting a stripped down, low end xeon motherboard and processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its DDR4 based, and will take 64 gb of normal and 128gb of RDIMMs ram - and you need ram for VMs and that many chrome tabs. You could also stick a regular video card into this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However while being a server board, you get shiny things like m2. You also get *dual* gigabit ethernet slots *and* out of band management through IPMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why this over a regular motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Corecount - It's probably pretty hard to get this many cores at this price point. Its also cheaper than the enthusiast models I believe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Its mini itx, but has a load of sata ports, but not much else. If you need tons of expanston, go somewhere else. You can throw this into a mini itx box with decent cooling and have a ton of power for not much space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. IPMI support can be useful&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drawbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wierd formfactor, not much room for upgrading, and availability isn't *great*, no analog audio out or HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I was building a system for the most bang for my buck, this is where I'd start.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note if I do end up doing this, I'd probably look at whether there's a skylake based varient out on the xeon D. At the moment tho, this looks like what I'd go with. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/xeon/d/X10SDV-8C_-LN2F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="724" RevisionGUID="b2e43175-0930-4071-8abd-0374e2370ef5" CreationDate="2015-10-21T02:15:47.923" UserId="82" Comment="added 197 characters in body" Text="I recommend a 15&quot; Macbook pro w/retina!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has all of the specs you desire because it is exactly the same hardware.  Apple hardware is completely capable of running Windows and using [bootcamp][1] you can install and boot directly into it.  There is a cost to this, because you will need install media of Windows 8 or later and a corresponding license to complete the windows install.  This is probably a trivial cost though, as when I was in school, I recall MS practically giving away windows licenses (and in some cases just charging a few dollars for the installation media).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't suggest this as a joke.  The build quality, battery life, and trackpad are going to be hard to rival and if you don't need fancy extras like a touchscreen the hardware you already have is a great option for running Windows.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize a Macbook Pro isn't sold as a &quot;windows laptop&quot;, and might not exactly fit your request, but the only difference in that regard is that the laptop is not bundled with a pre-installed, licensed, copy of windows. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201468" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="49364d90-2c2c-4342-95c3-119584f84911" CreationDate="2015-10-21T03:00:17.320" UserId="6" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="I recently bought an [15&quot; MacBook Pro w/ Retina](http://www.apple.com/us-hed/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro) (with student discount and no sales tax) for $2300. Considering I got a pair of Beats headphones too which I plan on selling, I figure my total cost was $2200 for this machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a Windows-based laptop which is comparable to this (ie not a Macbook Pro with Windows installed..)? The easy-to-measure things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; Retina-quality screen (better than 1900x1200 resolution)&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SSD (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated graphics card that is comparable/better&#xD;&#xA; - Comparable battery life (rMBP estimate is 9 hours with normal use)&#xD;&#xA; - Roughly same weight or less (4.5 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also wanting the following, less easy to measure things (or less important things):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Similar build quality, the aluminum case is nice (I do not like plastic cases generally)&#xD;&#xA; - Trackpad quality that is comparable&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the pricepoint is less than $2200 for educational pricing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2664" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="465" RevisionGUID="07446f5f-14a0-4b57-8941-eb576a2a6d11" CreationDate="2015-10-21T03:09:21.760" UserId="404" Comment="added 197 characters in body" Text="[Asus UX501][1] is a solid 15&quot; laptop that can be compared with Macbook Pro retina 15&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Back][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Specs][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Front Facing][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6 inch, 3840 x 2160 px resolution, IGZO IPS, touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Haswell Core i7-4720HQ CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GeForce GTX 960M 4GB GDDR5 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;   DDR3 (8 GB soldered, 1 x 8 GB DIMM)&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB PCIe SSD (M.2 PCIe 80 mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure about the trackpad quality, but it does come with an aluminium case and backlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Zenbook UX501 is available in the US for $1499.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ultrabookreview.com/7032-asus-zenbook-nx501/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3wmlr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PTiYo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gniwS.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2665" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="729" RevisionGUID="f7c7dce5-9cd5-4393-9145-daf8aefd69a4" CreationDate="2015-10-21T03:11:26.163" UserId="531" Text="If you don't need the *physical* keys to change (and well, a keycap puller and maybe spare keys would fix that), you could get a remappable mechanical keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got an oldschool razer blackwidow - now sold as the [blackwidow classic][1] but many keyboards of this sort would have similar features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - has proper switches.&#xD;&#xA; - cause of this, you can just pull and move most keys around&#xD;&#xA; - you can *buy* replacement keycaps, even as a set.&#xD;&#xA; - backlight optional, there's models without it.&#xD;&#xA; - You won't be a membrane key using plebian.  &#xD;&#xA; - You can disable, enable and remap keys to your heart's content&#xD;&#xA; - You arn't spending several thousand dollars for reconfiguring a keyboard. My key puller cost *three dollars*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.razerzone.com/store/razer-blackwidow-ultimate-classic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2666" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="80a643f3-f45f-4ff9-9588-2e218ab4729f" CreationDate="2015-10-21T05:01:00.633" UserId="615" Comment="Changed preferences" Text="Long story short, I'm looking to buy a new feature phone/dumbphone, possibly within the next 12 months. However, I'm finding it difficult to find a dumbphone with my list of preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price under $100 AUD.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be strong/durable, and able to keep working for a long time (i.e. it's feasible to see it still holding together and functional up to 10 years from now, including battery changes when the old battery stops holding a charge).&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life.&#xD;&#xA; - Telstra specific *or* network-unlocked, and must be able to work on Australian 3G network or higher.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price under $50 AUD.&#xD;&#xA; - Having a waterproof or water-resistant design.&#xD;&#xA; - Handling being left outside overnight.&#xD;&#xA; - Being a more recent model (i.e. the more recent the model, the better, but &quot;old&quot; models are still fine if they match the other criteria).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only be able to work on 2g network, as 2g is being retired by Telstra in [late 2016][1].&#xD;&#xA; - Be a smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? Even a recommendation which meets most of the preferences, but not quite all? From your recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any particular preference(s), and/or has additional features not stated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://crowdsupport.telstra.com.au/t5/Telstra-Product-Exits/DECOMMISSIONING-OUR-2G-GSM-900MHz-NETWORK/ba-p/440992" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="2a50d966-1fb5-4673-89ed-37969e8ec23d" CreationDate="2015-10-21T06:14:19.933" UserId="615" Comment="deleted 26 characters in body" Text="Long story short, I'm looking to buy a new feature phone/dumbphone, possibly within the next 12 months. However, I'm finding it difficult to find a dumbphone with my list of preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price under $100 AUD.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be strong/durable, and able to keep working for a long time (i.e. it's feasible to see it still holding together and functional up to 10 years from now, even if this includes battery changes when the old battery stops holding a charge).&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life.&#xD;&#xA; - Telstra specific *or* network-unlocked, and must be able to work on Australian 3G network or higher.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price under $50 AUD.&#xD;&#xA; - Having a waterproof or water-resistant design.&#xD;&#xA; - Handling being left outside overnight.&#xD;&#xA; - Being a more recent model (i.e. the more recent the model, the better, but &quot;old&quot; models are still fine if they match the other criteria).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Must not* only be able to work on 2g network, as 2g is being retired by Telstra in [late 2016][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any form factor (e.g. candybar, clamshell/flip-phone, slide-out keyboard, etc.) is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any good recommendations out there? Even a recommendation which meets most of the preferences, but not quite all? From your recommendation, please state if it doesn't meet any particular preference(s), and/or has additional features not stated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://crowdsupport.telstra.com.au/t5/Telstra-Product-Exits/DECOMMISSIONING-OUR-2G-GSM-900MHz-NETWORK/ba-p/440992" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="730" RevisionGUID="3925adcb-b7b2-42f3-9b1d-a64efb9bfddf" CreationDate="2015-10-21T06:53:54.427" UserId="177" Text="One important question you need to ask yourself is if you need industrial build quality and long term hardware support, or a research/prototype platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need an industrial PC, I don't have any &lt;100 dollar options for you, but you might spend 100-200 dollars on a Compulab product. I have pretty good experiences with them, the hardware design seems good and support works as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering you mentioned RasPi, you might want to get an [Odroid XU4][1], which not only gives you best bang for a buck, but also enables to use a (questionably) more secure eMMC storage that is attached right on the board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But after all, any computer is not secure unless you either encrypt your data or make a case that you attach to something and lock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825 &quot;Odroid XU4&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="732" RevisionGUID="4fa21f99-d8b3-40cb-a3ff-00cd49cc804b" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:50:27.697" UserId="625" Text="**Problem**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a portable device which should fullfill my following requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Device should be able to connect and communicate with bluetooth devices.&#xD;&#xA;2. Device should be able to connect to internet. First preference is wifi connection, but as a fallback mechanism, ethernet will also work.&#xD;&#xA;3. I should be able to run Node.js server on it. This server will be very light weight, wont need much RAM and computing resources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, after reading few resources i found, Raspberry pi gives me all such features, but only issue with Raspberry pi is that it has many other feature also (camera port, HDMI, etc) which add significant amount to its cost. Since i need device for commercial purpose, so i need to make it cost effective as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can somebody suggest me some available readymade options ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for device to control some lighting stuff. These device should be used as a gateway and needs to be installed in customer premises. So, thats why these devices should be either a chip/small size board." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="732" RevisionGUID="4fa21f99-d8b3-40cb-a3ff-00cd49cc804b" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:50:27.697" UserId="625" Text="What are some handheld-device/board with Wifi+Bluetooth+processor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="732" RevisionGUID="4fa21f99-d8b3-40cb-a3ff-00cd49cc804b" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:50:27.697" UserId="625" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2676" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="f4863ae9-64ab-4826-bec4-267a5547f512" CreationDate="2015-10-21T09:02:49.637" UserId="177" Comment="3" />
  <row Id="2677" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="576" RevisionGUID="c23844e3-4d91-4faa-9e0a-7ef63f2a3785" CreationDate="2015-10-21T14:26:38.837" UserId="461" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I ended up asking Streacom (what an idea, eh?) and they confirmed that the FC8 should work fine with Thin-ITX, such as the Asus H81T.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I received my FC8 Alpha and can confirm that it happily accomodates Thin-ITX boards (I'm using an H81T, but Thin-ITX is sufficiently precisely defined that it should work for all Thin-ITX boards)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="733" RevisionGUID="878bbab2-ef4e-4797-b9fa-ff609babb66e" CreationDate="2015-10-21T16:10:43.717" UserId="1" Text="I've been using a [Plantronics Savi 700 Series](http://www.plantronics.com/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview) for the past few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![](http://www.plantronics.com/images/catalog/product/large/savi_w740.png)](http://www.plantronics.com/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Is way over budget** at $400. I got this as a gift through a fortunate series of events. I'm definitely open to other recommendations of cheaper products.&#xD;&#xA; - Connects to my MacBook through USB (the cord goes from the base to the laptop)&#xD;&#xA; - The headset itself is wireless, and has range allowing me to walk around my neighborhood block with minor degradation of sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a box full of different ways to affix it to your head - right now I'm using a springy headphone-type holder. &#xD;&#xA; - Has a pretty decent microphone, with decent response time&#xD;&#xA; - Has all-day battery life, if you remember to charge it at night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only gripe with it is that sometimes, if I leave it connected for more than a few hours, it starts to 'echo' - slowly turning into a high-pitched whine. I have no idea what this is, but it's easily fixed by turning it off/on again with the buttons on the base." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="734" RevisionGUID="a786aa52-29ac-428c-88d7-5a5d84ad68a8" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:53:27.903" UserId="1" Text="I've recently purchased a trackpad (which I'll probably put in an answer), but I'm curious about what else is available. The requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must work with my 2012 MacBook Pro (running OS X 10.11)&#xD;&#xA; - Must not have a 'sticky' surface - I hate it when my finger gets 'stuck' ([stick-slip phenomenon](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stick-slip_phenomenon)) on a trackpad when I'm trying to move it around. &#xD;&#xA; - Must work to move the mouse, not just in 'art' programs like Photoshop, GIMP, etc. Working in those apps would be a plus, though.&#xD;&#xA; - Be within a budget of ~$150. I'm flexible on that&#xD;&#xA; - Not require use of a stylus - but the option to use a stylus would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Work over Bluetooth, but I'm not completely opposed to burning a USB port for this&#xD;&#xA; - Support OS X's Multitouch gestures&#xD;&#xA; - If it takes batteries, it shouldn't eat them at a rate of more than one set per month with fairly heavy usage.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="734" RevisionGUID="a786aa52-29ac-428c-88d7-5a5d84ad68a8" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:53:27.903" UserId="1" Text="External trackpad for a Macbook Pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="734" RevisionGUID="a786aa52-29ac-428c-88d7-5a5d84ad68a8" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:53:27.903" UserId="1" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2682" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="208" RevisionGUID="3ca9e91e-85ae-4f1f-aa03-0130baff1c29" CreationDate="2015-10-21T19:30:09.720" UserId="80" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:80,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;animuson&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="735" RevisionGUID="7b4efc82-1471-4b0d-a8f2-f687bac33e7e" CreationDate="2015-10-22T01:43:29.113" UserId="627" Text="I have a Asus X99-E WS motherboard (LGA 2011 v3 slot) and it doesn't come with any video ports.  Is it still possible to use the video capabilities of the Intel CPU or will I need to purchase a video card?  If a video card is required, what is recommended for good video quality with an HDMI port (24p movies, etc.)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2686" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="735" RevisionGUID="7b4efc82-1471-4b0d-a8f2-f687bac33e7e" CreationDate="2015-10-22T01:43:29.113" UserId="627" Text="Using Intel graphics but no video port on motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2687" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="735" RevisionGUID="7b4efc82-1471-4b0d-a8f2-f687bac33e7e" CreationDate="2015-10-22T01:43:29.113" UserId="627" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="5cbe2d0b-e272-4c4e-863e-5e9c08ef6827" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:17:48.343" UserId="628" Text="I am looking for a device half laptop, half all-in-one, half barebone, to adjust the price to my exact needs, do you know if I can find something in 2015 close to this specs? What I am searching is an:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All-In-One (Screen with an internal computer), crafted with portability in mind, preferredly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**With:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good display: I am going to use it for developing long hours, and I have some eyesight problems. 15&quot;-17&quot; would be perfect, &#xD;&#xA; - Good performance: an i5 at least, not ridicule RAM and an SSD is a must (128Gb at least)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is I wanted it as minimal/barebone as possible, **I dont need**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Powerful graphic card: I am not a graphic designer nor 3D renderer &#xD;&#xA;   - OS nor Bloatware: Just like barebone NUCs,I'll install an Ubuntu myself&#xD;&#xA;   - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;   - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;   - Webcam&#xD;&#xA;   - Microphone&#xD;&#xA;   - Keyboard nor mouse (I'll buy some ergonomical on my own)&#xD;&#xA;   - fancy sound output (I would even rennounce to it)&#xD;&#xA;   - SD Cards, ID readers, fingerprints and so on...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a screen-pc with a bunch of USB3.0 ports and a Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;That should allow me to get a good deal with acceotable horsepower, if it existed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for assisting me and pointing to any brand or model! :)&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="5cbe2d0b-e272-4c4e-863e-5e9c08ef6827" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:17:48.343" UserId="628" Text="Looking for the perfect laptop/barebone/all-in-one device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="5cbe2d0b-e272-4c4e-863e-5e9c08ef6827" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:17:48.343" UserId="628" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="737" RevisionGUID="09829158-e003-4153-85ca-a5eb581f1d47" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:48:05.953" UserId="241" Text="You may be able to use the video-transcoding capabilities of the Intel integrated graphics, but with no video port on the board, you won't be able to use it to drive a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If all you need out of a video card is the ability to play movies and show desktop graphics (ie. no gaming), any low-end card will do.  $30 will get you something like the [XFX One Radeon HD 5450 ON-XFX1-PLS2][1] or the [EVGA GeForce 8400 GS 01G-P3-1303-KR][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150655&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130607&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="ded3b931-52d6-4001-9560-1ea87ffab178" CreationDate="2015-10-22T06:55:51.300" UserId="629" Text="Currently we have an old Radware Linkproof with software limited bandwidth to access internet from Lan via 3 different wan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need something better and we are looking for advices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal product, besides load balancing and recovery on link failure, should do some traffic shaping too. At least it should limit the bandwidth available to each connection in order to avoid that a single lan user could saturate the wan link. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;Filippo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="ded3b931-52d6-4001-9560-1ea87ffab178" CreationDate="2015-10-22T06:55:51.300" UserId="629" Text="Load balancer for 3 or more wan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="ded3b931-52d6-4001-9560-1ea87ffab178" CreationDate="2015-10-22T06:55:51.300" UserId="629" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="704" RevisionGUID="ab06439a-e764-4ee1-8ed5-6c62d8bc7b17" CreationDate="2015-10-22T07:16:23.700" UserId="604" Comment="People asked for specs" Text="I am currently upgrading my computer piece by piece, and before making the jump to a new motherboard (and processor and memory), my wife purchased me some new DDR3 RAM, which was lovely but now I would feel that I cannot upgrade to DDR4 without at least using the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However; I know of boards which will allow both to be used, so I could use the DDR3 for a time, then in the future upgrade to DDR4. My real question is, what boards are currently available in this format?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Current Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating System: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit (6.3, Build 9600) (9600.winblue_r9.150322-1500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: BIOSTAR N68S3+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 850 Processor (4 CPUs), ~3.3GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: 8192MB RAM DDR3   (My wife purchased me 16GB further DDR3, however my current motherboard can only support 8GB in 2 slots)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Card : ATI Radeon HD 5400 Series  (I currently have a GTX970 sitting on a table, waiting for larger case and probably a motherboard upgrade)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitor : ACER X193W &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung SSD 850 EVO SCSI Disk Device 240GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD: SAMSUNG HD103SJ SCSI Disk Device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="04aece0a-5c06-4758-b1e0-175a869fbf88" CreationDate="2015-10-22T08:33:47.243" UserId="631" Text="few weeks ago I have bought a Lenovo Z50-70 (with i7-4510U). I'm very happy with this notebook. It is super fast and has a greate graphics card (for how I use it). But there is only a slow 11b/g/n wlan card, so no 5GHz band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this specification][1] for the wlan card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One of the following, configurable by model:  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 b/g/n, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 ac,1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and [amazon sells an Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160 card][2]*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But how do I know if this card fits? I worrying about the antenna of the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you tell my how to look this up, or if it'll work to use this card. Maybe you have a hint for some other wlan cards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://psref.lenovo.com/PSREFUploadFile%5CSys/PDF/Lenovo%20Laptops/Lenovo%20Z50/Lenovo_Z50-70_spec.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOS19E6?keywords=Intel%20Dual%20Band%20Wireless-AC%2031607&amp;qid=1445501945&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_2&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="04aece0a-5c06-4758-b1e0-175a869fbf88" CreationDate="2015-10-22T08:33:47.243" UserId="631" Text="WLAN-Card for Lenovo Z50-70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="04aece0a-5c06-4758-b1e0-175a869fbf88" CreationDate="2015-10-22T08:33:47.243" UserId="631" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2699" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="214" RevisionGUID="6cce67b0-4c9b-4753-b49a-e147a6bc3921" CreationDate="2015-10-22T09:03:59.457" UserId="111" Comment="added list of features" Text="I recently had the same problem and in the end went for the [Soundsticks III from Harman Kardon](http://m.harmankardon.com/computer-speakers/SOUNDSTICKS+III.html). They look and sound beautiful. Sub is on feet though, but gives a really tight sound.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got mine for €100 (around $120). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price around €99 (at least [here in holland](http://www.bol.com/nl/p/harman-kardon-soundsticks-iii-2-1-speakerset-transparant/9000000011756073/))&#xD;&#xA; - 2.1 layout&#xD;&#xA; - Subwoofer with: independent control, 20+ Watts, 6 inch external driver&#xD;&#xA; - Subwoofer in on feet.&#xD;&#xA; - Four, 1&quot; full-range transducers per channel powered by a 10-watt&#xD;&#xA;amplifier for room-filling sound&#xD;&#xA; - Touch volume and mute controls&#xD;&#xA; - Angle-adjustable satellites&#xD;&#xA; - Easy setup, one chord from every speaker to the subwoofer, a mini-jack input for connecting your device and a power input connected to the subwoofer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="740" RevisionGUID="dab8cfb0-841e-448c-b8f7-13533dd3c959" CreationDate="2015-10-22T09:52:08.637" UserId="97" Text="Can you recommend an optical mouse with three mouse buttons and a non-clickable scroll wheel?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most mice available today have two buttons with a clickable scroll wheel between them. I am not happy with that design. It is simply too easy for me to accidentally click when I intended to scroll or vice-versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a mouse with three real buttons and a non-clickable scroll wheel - ideally located between the left button and the middle button. Does such a thing exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="740" RevisionGUID="dab8cfb0-841e-448c-b8f7-13533dd3c959" CreationDate="2015-10-22T09:52:08.637" UserId="97" Text="Mouse with separate scroll wheel and middle button" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2702" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="740" RevisionGUID="dab8cfb0-841e-448c-b8f7-13533dd3c959" CreationDate="2015-10-22T09:52:08.637" UserId="97" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="841f737c-5fb8-4334-9599-f5518beaeded" CreationDate="2015-10-22T10:17:43.253" UserId="629" Comment="added 246 characters in body" Text="Currently we have an old Radware Linkproof with software limited bandwidth to access internet from Lan via 3 different wan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need something better and we are looking for advices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal product, besides load balancing and recovery on link failure, should do some traffic shaping too. At least it should limit the bandwidth available to each connection in order to avoid that a single lan user could saturate the wan link. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum requirement&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - 3 wan ports&#xD;&#xA;   - to be used in front of a firewall. Alternatively it should support 3 internal sub-networks.&#xD;&#xA;   - Total throughput of 20 Mb&#xD;&#xA;   - support for vpn with client software on road warrior&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;Filippo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="742" RevisionGUID="7bf1462d-29f8-4042-89c2-b3518440fa4f" CreationDate="2015-10-22T12:13:31.930" UserId="531" Text="LGA 2011 processors typically don't have built in graphics like lesser models. That said nearly *any* modern card will quite handle video at up to 60hz at common resolutions. 4K might be tricky, but at worst you need a mid range card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I disagree on the suggestion of a *super* cheap, old card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few reasons. The *specific* nvidia line that mark mentioned on his answer's a bit problematic, and has a high failure rate. Its also roughly 7-8 years old, and its a little like putting a bike tyre on a bugatti veyron.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on your needs a gforce 700 or 900 series, preferably midrange (a 960 upwards, but I paired my 'regular' core i7 3rd generation with a top of the line card, and its really good). If you have *really* have basic needs (and what you do does!) go with a lower end card, but preferably within the current or previous generations. The *oldest* I'd go is the 600 series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should you be looking for? HDMI's what you'd connect a TV with, and is standard. DP is the standard for computer monitors. Make sure your card has *both*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why get a better card over an old one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They often have better gpgpu capabilities and video playback acceleration. You can often use your GPU to play back video. You also are more likely to have warranty coverage. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="743" RevisionGUID="dab91993-8a56-44ad-9108-cf1bd09eeb44" CreationDate="2015-10-22T12:16:46.590" UserId="571" Text="In the meantime, someone answered me in another forum: http://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/23402/how-do-hardware-timestamps-hardstamps-work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like the Intel 82580 network controller supports this. It is e.g. contained in the Intel I340 server adapter family." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="744" RevisionGUID="44ab489c-be4f-4958-bdc0-bf3183ef8e47" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:29:16.177" UserId="461" Text="Here's one possible way:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Akasa Euler S (~$120)&#xD;&#xA;- Some Thin-ITX board (~$150)&#xD;&#xA;- 90W power brick, same as used for HP/Dell laptops (~$20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add whichever screen, CPU, RAM, and SSD you like; attach the Akasa case behind the monitor and you're done.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="745" RevisionGUID="0b47388b-1232-4f1a-8488-34e864f9fd02" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:38:45.360" UserId="461" Text="This cannot exist.  If it's connected via USB, then it's connected via USB, no matter what it looks like and only software could provide the illusion of a &quot;physical port&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="745" RevisionGUID="881da2f6-97bd-41b0-851d-56f225faaa2c" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:30:01.373" UserId="461" Comment="added 556 characters in body" Text="This cannot exist.  If it's connected via USB, then it's connected via USB, no matter what it looks like and only software could provide the illusion of a &quot;physical port&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, I think I missed an important pat of your question: The old software runs in a virtual machine, so all you need is for your virtual machine to expose the USB-connected ports as physical ports of the virtual machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the answer is still that &quot;this is a software problem&quot;, but at least one that should be easy to solve.  I have no idea which virtual machine software you're using, but at least Qemu on GNU/Linux provides options like `-parallel dev:   redirect the parallel port to char device 'dev'` to do exactly what you're asking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="6389cd8f-7aa1-4aca-a2f2-7320baf2febe" CreationDate="2015-10-22T15:18:30.910" UserId="628" Comment="added 207 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a device half laptop, half all-in-one, half barebone, to adjust the price to my exact needs. You can see it as either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Non-touchscreen, non-iOs/Android, long-hours directly chargable tablet with some adjustable stand&#xD;&#xA;- Non-touchscreen, &lt;21&quot;, portable all-in-one&#xD;&#xA;- Laptop without a keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know if I can find something in 2015 close to this specs? What I am searching is an:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All-In-One (Screen with an internal computer), crafted with portability in mind, preferredly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**With:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good display: I am going to use it for developing long hours, and I have some eyesight problems. 15&quot;-17&quot; would be perfect, Ergonomics are important so I'd expect an adjustable stand (or a third-party compatible base) to make it perpendicular to my body when placed over the table&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance: an i5 at least, not ridicule RAM and an SSD is a must (128Gb at least)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is I wanted it as minimal/barebone as possible, **I dont need**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Powerful graphic card: I am not a graphic designer nor 3D renderer &#xD;&#xA;   - OS nor Bloatware: Just like barebone NUCs,I'll install an Ubuntu myself&#xD;&#xA;   - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;   - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;   - Webcam&#xD;&#xA;   - Microphone&#xD;&#xA;   - Keyboard nor mouse (I'll buy some ergonomical on my own)&#xD;&#xA;   - fancy sound output (I would even rennounce to it)&#xD;&#xA;   - SD Cards, ID readers, fingerprints and so on...&#xD;&#xA;I have a large desktop media center for all those fancy media uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a screen-pc with a bunch of USB3.0 ports and a Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;That should allow me to get a good deal with acceotable horsepower, if it existed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for assisting me and pointing to any brand or model! :)&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2724" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="712" RevisionGUID="071aaa02-85ce-41dd-b12c-4a68538d9ebc" CreationDate="2015-10-22T15:49:45.530" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="b3ea6fb4-ea00-4bcf-a481-efd1518497c0" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:36:04.740" UserId="67" Comment="Fix various spelling / wording / etc errors, add wifi tag." Text="A few weeks ago I bought a Lenovo Z50-70 (with i7-4510U). I'm very happy with this notebook. It is super fast and has a great graphics card (for how I use it). But there is only a slow 11b/g/n WiFi card, so no 5GHz band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this specification][1] for the WiFi card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One of the following, configurable by model:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 b/g/n, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 ac,1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon [sells an Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160][2] card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How do I know if this card fits? Will it be compatible with the antenna of the notebook ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you tell my how to look this up, or if this card will work ? Maybe you have a hint for some other WiFi cards ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://psref.lenovo.com/PSREFUploadFile%5CSys/PDF/Lenovo%20Laptops/Lenovo%20Z50/Lenovo_Z50-70_spec.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOS19E6?keywords=Intel%20Dual%20Band%20Wireless-AC%2031607&amp;qid=1445501945&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_2&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2727" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="b3ea6fb4-ea00-4bcf-a481-efd1518497c0" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:36:04.740" UserId="67" Comment="Fix various spelling / wording / etc errors, add wifi tag." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2728" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="b3ea6fb4-ea00-4bcf-a481-efd1518497c0" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:36:04.740" Comment="Proposed by 67 approved by 8, 57 edit id of 207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2733" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="e8b71866-8815-4902-afc9-eb8f7e660015" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:54:18.410" UserId="607" Comment="added 714 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the 500-600 Euro range (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Is an i3 with SSD as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**  &#xD;&#xA;What about this:&#xD;&#xA;HP 15-ac011nv - 15.6&quot; &#xD;&#xA;(i7-5500U/4GB/500GB/HD 5500)&#xD;&#xA;CPU 	Intel Core i7-5500U 2.40 GHz&#xD;&#xA;cache 	4 MB&#xD;&#xA;RAM 	4 GB - DDR3 SDRAM - 1600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;HDD	500 GB&#xD;&#xA;monitor 	15.6&quot; BrightView WLED - 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;Graphics 	Intel HD Graphics 5500 - Shared Memory&#xD;&#xA;2 x USB 2.0, 1 x USB 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;The ram might need some boosting. Will call them soon to ask the max ram that i can install, and how much an extra 4 costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price for some reason (ok i know 2, will see it in a sec) the price is really low for an I7 550 Euro&#xD;&#xA;The only drawback it seems that it is the low resolution screen and the GPU. I am not going to play any games on this anyway, nor i will watch any 4K movies.&#xD;&#xA;how about this then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2735" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="750" RevisionGUID="f4e8a6bf-1627-4044-bad7-8614a01b26d0" CreationDate="2015-10-23T04:42:53.810" UserId="636" Text="The Xbox One has been out for almost two years now. Can someone tell me if there's a headset made that's completely wireless (including Xbox Live chat) for the Xbox One? I have searched to no avail in finding one that is 100% wireless during game use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2736" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="750" RevisionGUID="f4e8a6bf-1627-4044-bad7-8614a01b26d0" CreationDate="2015-10-23T04:42:53.810" UserId="636" Text="Is there a headset made thats completely wireless during gameplay (including XBL chat) for the Xbox One?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2737" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="750" RevisionGUID="f4e8a6bf-1627-4044-bad7-8614a01b26d0" CreationDate="2015-10-23T04:42:53.810" UserId="636" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2742" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="704" RevisionGUID="531158b0-71e0-4c13-abb1-722b19957f31" CreationDate="2015-10-23T07:10:19.263" UserId="604" Comment="Restructured question so as to be generic, not personal " Text="I know of motherboards which will allow both DDR3 &amp; DDR4 formats to be used, this would allow me to use DDR3 for a time, then in the future upgrade to DDR4. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My real question is, what motherboards are currently available in this format? And what are the the trade-offs for this flexibility?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2743" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="257770df-f931-4451-a36a-24fe2281e759" CreationDate="2015-10-23T08:25:28.940" UserId="607" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the 500-600 Euro range (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Is an i3 with SSD as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**  &#xD;&#xA;What about this:&#xD;&#xA;HP 15-ac011nv - 15.6&quot; &#xD;&#xA;(i7-5500U/4GB/500GB/HD 5500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU 	Intel Core i7-5500U 2.40 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- cache 	4 MB&#xD;&#xA;- RAM 	4 GB - DDR3 SDRAM - 1600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;- HDD	500 GB&#xD;&#xA;- monitor 	15.6&quot; BrightView WLED - 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics 	Intel HD Graphics 5500 - Shared Memory&#xD;&#xA;- 2 x USB 2.0, 1 x USB 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram might need some boosting. Will call them soon to ask the max ram that i can install, and how much an extra 4 costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price for some reason (ok i know 2, will see it in a sec) the price is really low for an I7 550 Euro&#xD;&#xA;The only drawback it seems that it is the low resolution screen and the GPU. I am not going to play any games on this anyway, nor i will watch any 4K movies.&#xD;&#xA;how about this then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="18e18148-0917-454e-9ba5-041031b78b7c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:38:58.330" UserId="638" Text="My old router died, and I want to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if I have to change the router, I want to try to see if I can do a setup like: Router + External Hard Drive + an android application maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically want to have a one-way sync of our pictures (my wife and I) to a HDD that is connected to the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sync would be through wi-fi, something like google is doing right now for me, but this time I would like to be in control of the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: what to look for in a router? I wouldn't want to spend too much, but I don't even know what to look for. Is it enough if the router has USB port on it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if there are routers that come with a special android app, or I can just try to look into some &quot;universal&quot; software like [this one][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: NAS device seems like a good idea, but it seems too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bv.wifisync" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2745" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="18e18148-0917-454e-9ba5-041031b78b7c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:38:58.330" UserId="638" Text="Router + External Hard Drive (a.k.a. Home Cloud)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2746" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="18e18148-0917-454e-9ba5-041031b78b7c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:38:58.330" UserId="638" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="635" RevisionGUID="383a0683-96a1-4a79-b544-e631b13ae06c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:02.000" UserId="57" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="A device used to gather audio input to a device. Use this tag when you are searching for a product that gathers input via spoken input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2749" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="635" RevisionGUID="383a0683-96a1-4a79-b544-e631b13ae06c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:02.000" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 176" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="641" RevisionGUID="e42ed8f7-056d-4aca-93f2-dfbc6d5150be" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:13.063" UserId="57" Comment="added 274 characters in body" Text="A short range wireless communication protocol standardized in IEEE 802.15.1, and now maintained by the Bluetooth Special Interest Group. Use this tag when searching for a device that utilizes the Bluetooth communication protocol to communicate with other electronic devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2751" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="641" RevisionGUID="e42ed8f7-056d-4aca-93f2-dfbc6d5150be" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:13.063" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 179" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="717" RevisionGUID="c40ef12e-8ed1-4540-a5f6-c8b003ec1c30" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:18.717" UserId="615" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="This tag is for questions on phones which are not connected to a land-line/home based connection. Use this tag when asking about mobile phones which don't fall under the [tag:smartphones] tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2753" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="717" RevisionGUID="c40ef12e-8ed1-4540-a5f6-c8b003ec1c30" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:18.717" Comment="Proposed by 615 approved by 214 edit id of 205" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2754" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="674" RevisionGUID="388134e1-580a-4b6f-9524-f6c23387a881" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:29.700" UserId="155" Comment="added 108 characters in body" Text="For questions related to computers consisting of a main tower where all components are housed inside a case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2755" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="674" RevisionGUID="388134e1-580a-4b6f-9524-f6c23387a881" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:29.700" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 188" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2756" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="718" RevisionGUID="d41b24e4-2019-4cdc-ab92-18190b6ba12c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:35.633" UserId="615" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="A phone which is not connected to a land-line/home based connection. Use this tag when asking about mobile phones which don't fall under the smartphones tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2757" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="718" RevisionGUID="d41b24e4-2019-4cdc-ab92-18190b6ba12c" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:35.633" Comment="Proposed by 615 approved by 214 edit id of 204" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="639" RevisionGUID="7368ac12-a770-4e89-ae9d-ff5c634bef62" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:40.630" UserId="57" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="Use this tag when searching for a handheld device, larger than the size of cellular phone, that accepts input via a touch screen. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2759" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="639" RevisionGUID="7368ac12-a770-4e89-ae9d-ff5c634bef62" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:40.630" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 178" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="681" RevisionGUID="f8e40cac-524c-4fde-9a4a-902685fb521b" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:44.717" UserId="155" Comment="added 175 characters in body" Text="For questions related to hardware that is very quiet or makes existing hardware quieter. Use the [silent] tag if absolute silence, not just quietness, is the question's focus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2761" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="681" RevisionGUID="f8e40cac-524c-4fde-9a4a-902685fb521b" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:44.717" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 191" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="679" RevisionGUID="38a7d7f8-8b7a-44b3-bfe2-8a08a13829b3" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:49.457" UserId="155" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning hardware that is absolutely silent or should make existing hardware absolutely slient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2763" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="679" RevisionGUID="38a7d7f8-8b7a-44b3-bfe2-8a08a13829b3" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:35:49.457" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 214 edit id of 190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="637" RevisionGUID="a4a87a61-aace-41a5-a81f-b12b1c1bd489" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:36:59.937" UserId="57" Comment="added 163 characters in body" Text="Use this tag when searching for devices for wireless network access. This can include devices such as routers, wireless extenders, wireless access points and more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2765" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="637" RevisionGUID="a4a87a61-aace-41a5-a81f-b12b1c1bd489" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:36:59.937" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 214 edit id of 177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="753" RevisionGUID="4a357901-4ae4-46e5-a752-03b3b45422ac" CreationDate="2015-10-23T18:47:28.760" UserId="57" Text="It's expensive, at $300, but I recommend the [Astro A50][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Astro A50][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [manual][3] for this headset is online, for you to browse prior to purchase. It includes set up instructions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A50 set up instructions][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headset has 7.1 surround sound and works on both my Xbox One and PS4. The Astro page says it also works on Xbox 360, PS3 and PC. I haven't tried it on any of those systems. The battery usually lasts about 6.5-7 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had no problems with sound or voice quality on the XBox. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.astrogaming.com/a50-headset/A50-GEN2.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sYyvT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://astro-media.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/2014/A50_XB1_Manual.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/xvqSN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="743" RevisionGUID="94d3d7a9-8f1a-46ee-be7d-d11644a3e2d9" CreationDate="2015-10-24T01:30:51.840" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links." Text="In the meantime, someone answered me at [Network Engineering SE](http://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/23402/how-do-hardware-timestamps-hardstamps-work)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like the Intel 82580 network controller supports this. It is e.g. contained in the Intel I340 server adapter family." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2772" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="743" RevisionGUID="94d3d7a9-8f1a-46ee-be7d-d11644a3e2d9" CreationDate="2015-10-24T01:30:51.840" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 57, 155 edit id of 208" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="8201b3cd-f77e-4912-92e7-8423132f4b17" CreationDate="2015-10-24T21:21:03.717" UserId="647" Text="I'm currently writing a story where in 2005 a guy build a time machine out of a old Ford Mustang, a Casio ClassPad 300 calculator, some scrap, and a Gaming PC, but the problem I'm facing is that I only started to follow the PC hardware market in 2010, and knows noting about older stuff, hoping someone here could enlighten me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some ground work about this PC, but don't know how off I am.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC can only run on a single core CPU, due to something about how the machine works, and it makes error when a dual core CPU is used, so I thought about using an Intel Pentium 4, but what about the AMD side, is there something better there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other things I have thought about is 1GB of RAM, a 160GB HDD, Antec P180 Case, leaving out GPU and PSU, what was good back then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing I thought about was using a custom Linux(Debian-based) as the OS, but how would that run on a '05 Gaming tower?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC's duty is via the Casio caculator, is taking the date and using some highly advance calculation to reprogram the circuit that drives the part that makes the car going through time, and outputs a speed + RPM the engine has to go before it can go through time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hoping that this is not to unorthodox a question to ask here, but if it is, so where should I then go to then?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2780" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="8201b3cd-f77e-4912-92e7-8423132f4b17" CreationDate="2015-10-24T21:21:03.717" UserId="647" Text="Gaming PC from 2005, What Parts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2781" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="8201b3cd-f77e-4912-92e7-8423132f4b17" CreationDate="2015-10-24T21:21:03.717" UserId="647" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2782" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="81da7f4d-bff4-41f4-ac15-58a0ec69ac00" CreationDate="2015-10-24T23:18:48.063" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title; removed tags" Text="Parts for a gaming PC from 2005" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2783" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="81da7f4d-bff4-41f4-ac15-58a0ec69ac00" CreationDate="2015-10-24T23:18:48.063" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title; removed tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="756" RevisionGUID="5686e67a-dd2a-420e-8a9f-fdf2c40b0be0" CreationDate="2015-10-24T23:36:13.587" UserId="241" Text="In 2005, Intel was running into severe heat problems with the [NetBurst][1]-architecture CPUs.  A gaming system would likely be AMD-based, running a high-end [Venice-series Athlon 64][2].  For homebuilt systems, a popular option was an [Opteron 144][3] overclocked to almost twice the stock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incompatibility with a dual-core CPU would be quite believable, since the first consumer-level dual-core CPUs only came out in the middle of that year.  Most mainboards required a BIOS update to recognize the second core, and Windows only supported the second core if you were running one of the business/server editions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a gaming system, 2GB or even 4GB of RAM would be more likely than 1GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you've got an Antec case from that timeframe, you're probably using an Antec power supply of around 400-500 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the 2004-2005 time frame, a popular choice for a budget gaming card was the [GeForce 6 6600GT][4] with one of the best price/performance ratios ever, while an unrestricted-budget system would be running either the 6800 Ultra Extreme or the newly-released [GeForce 7 7800 GTX][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're building a 2005-vintage PC, there's a reasonable chance you'll need a dedicated 100Mbps network card.  Generic-branded $20 cards with a RealTek chipset were nearly ubiquitous at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for OS, if you're into gaming, you wouldn't have been running Linux unless you were running strictly older games, or the very few games where the developer worked on WINE support.  Gaming was almost universally done using Windows XP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NetBurst_(microarchitecture)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Athlon_64#Venice_.2890.C2.A0nm_SOI.29&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opteron#Recognition&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_6_series&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_7_series#GeForce_7800_GTX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2785" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="2ddc4961-a0de-41de-af4d-cfabc7942cb1" CreationDate="2015-10-25T03:05:27.120" UserId="128" Comment="No need for the extra chat, we're discussing this on meta and everything too :D" Text="I'm currently writing a story where in 2005 a guy build a time machine out of a old Ford Mustang, a Casio ClassPad 300 calculator, some scrap, and a Gaming PC, but the problem I'm facing is that I only started to follow the PC hardware market in 2010, and knows noting about older stuff, hoping someone here could enlighten me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some ground work about this PC, but don't know how off I am.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC can only run on a single core CPU, due to something about how the machine works, and it makes error when a dual core CPU is used, so I thought about using an Intel Pentium 4, but what about the AMD side, is there something better there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other things I have thought about is 1GB of RAM, a 160GB HDD, Antec P180 Case, leaving out GPU and PSU, what was good back then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing I thought about was using a custom Linux(Debian-based) as the OS, but how would that run on a '05 Gaming tower?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC's duty is via the Casio caculator, is taking the date and using some highly advance calculation to reprogram the circuit that drives the part that makes the car going through time, and outputs a speed + RPM the engine has to go before it can go through time.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2786" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="2ddc4961-a0de-41de-af4d-cfabc7942cb1" CreationDate="2015-10-25T03:05:27.120" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 209" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="757" RevisionGUID="26c59ccf-fade-4888-99e5-699456848736" CreationDate="2015-10-25T06:33:34.913" UserId="650" Text="Our network vendor is telling us to upgrade our iscsi SAN to 10GB. We are game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the network switches alone are $4500 each (or more), and we need 2! (He sells Dell gear.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there reliable options that are less coin?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="757" RevisionGUID="26c59ccf-fade-4888-99e5-699456848736" CreationDate="2015-10-25T06:33:34.913" UserId="650" Text="10GB Ethernet switch for iscsi -- Solid options under $3000?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2789" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="757" RevisionGUID="26c59ccf-fade-4888-99e5-699456848736" CreationDate="2015-10-25T06:33:34.913" UserId="650" Text="&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="757" RevisionGUID="ae96d96e-bcae-496e-bd9b-b53425acb7fc" CreationDate="2015-10-25T07:27:11.530" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title; added reference for easier reading" Text="Our network vendor is telling us to upgrade our [iSCSI][1] SAN to 10GB. We are game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the network switches alone are $4500 each (or more), and we need 2! (He sells Dell gear.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there reliable options that are less coin?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISCSI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2791" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="757" RevisionGUID="ae96d96e-bcae-496e-bd9b-b53425acb7fc" CreationDate="2015-10-25T07:27:11.530" UserId="155" Comment="clarified title; added reference for easier reading" Text="10GB Ethernet switch for iSCSI for under $3000?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2793" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="c2a05f26-9b25-4200-b194-058f0e9d2225" CreationDate="2015-10-25T10:09:04.147" UserId="652" Text="I need a 4k 40 inch tv that I will use to code software.&#xD;&#xA;I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- hdmi 2.0&#xD;&#xA;- the possibility of disable overscan&#xD;&#xA;- disable all image processing&#xD;&#xA;- low lag&#xD;&#xA;- around40 inches size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that the most used is a Seiki 39 inches but it has some problems and also I cannot find in Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested now in finding info of a Philips 43puh4900 which I can easily buy and it costs 400 euro. But on internet there are no reviews at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2794" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="c2a05f26-9b25-4200-b194-058f0e9d2225" CreationDate="2015-10-25T10:09:04.147" UserId="652" Text="4k 40 inch tv for programmer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2795" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="c2a05f26-9b25-4200-b194-058f0e9d2225" CreationDate="2015-10-25T10:09:04.147" UserId="652" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="759" RevisionGUID="447a2abc-b2a6-46bd-be48-2fcb92c9f4dd" CreationDate="2015-10-25T16:13:21.820" UserId="661" Text="In 2005, the most powerful single-core CPUs on the market (and the wet dream of every gamer) was AMD FX-55 and later FX-57. For such a machine, 2 GB of RAM would not be unheard of, even in 2005.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something with more bang per buck that an ordinary gamer would be likely to have, an Opteron 144 mentioned in the other post would be a good choice (although it was introduced rather late in 2005). During that time, DFI LanParty motherboards with an nVidia nForce 4 chipset were quite popular for AMD rigs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the GPU, the nVidia GeForce 6600 GT was generally a popular choice during that time. Alternatively, you could go with an ATI Radeon X800 XL which was rougly on par with a GeForce 6800 GT (the &quot;Ultra&quot; version someone mentioned was made mostly for the press and availability was very scarce).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the operating system - you definitely would not run any kind of Linux if you wanted to play games on your PC. But if your story is such that the guy re-purposes the PC for other stuff than games, then I guess it's OK. In addition to Debian, Ubuntu existed (from 2004) and some popular distributions were Mandriva (from Red Hat), Fedora and openSUSE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope it helps!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="9dc5ff2d-5344-4a3b-a8b3-9d0c186270bb" CreationDate="2015-10-25T16:21:35.153" UserId="626" Text="I find it a very interesting options to extend my MacBooks storage capacity by permanently adding an SD card. One possible solution would be the [Transcend Jetdrive lite][1]. There are also other extension cards out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with those products? Which would you recommend for my Macbook Pro (non-retina, mid 2012)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://sg.transcend-info.com/apple/jetdrivelite/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2799" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="9dc5ff2d-5344-4a3b-a8b3-9d0c186270bb" CreationDate="2015-10-25T16:21:35.153" UserId="626" Text="What SD card extension for a Macbook Pro 15&quot; (mid2012)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2800" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="9dc5ff2d-5344-4a3b-a8b3-9d0c186270bb" CreationDate="2015-10-25T16:21:35.153" UserId="626" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2801" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="23c7f566-7322-4555-ba15-c298e2786745" CreationDate="2015-10-25T17:10:55.880" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar; title" Text="I need a 4k 40 inch TV that I will use when writing software. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;- the ability to disable overscan&#xD;&#xA;- to disable all image processing&#xD;&#xA;- low lag&#xD;&#xA;- around 40&quot; in size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that the most popular TV for this user is a 39 inch Seiki, but it has some problems and also I cannot find in Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested now in finding info of a Philips 43PUH4900 which I can easily buy and it costs 400 Euro, but I can't find any reviews for it on the internet.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2802" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="23c7f566-7322-4555-ba15-c298e2786745" CreationDate="2015-10-25T17:10:55.880" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar; title" Text="4k 40&quot; TV for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2803" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="23c7f566-7322-4555-ba15-c298e2786745" CreationDate="2015-10-25T17:10:55.880" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="ea1f427f-e442-4e34-940e-26a649f31276" CreationDate="2015-10-25T18:01:34.947" UserId="662" Text="I did a lot of research but the more I study about the M.2 slots the more i am getting confused. Can any one tell me MSI ge 62 pro 004 supports which m.2 ssd?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications page shows as follows: NVMe M.2 SSD by PCIe Gen3 X4 up to 2200MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about the size I see that m.2 slots are divided under multiple category B, M and B&amp;M. They are also of multiple sizes like 2232 to 22110 Do any of these ssd support ge62 pro 004: 1)Eluktro Pro-X Performance 512GB AHCI TRO-PCIe512GBPRO-X M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Eluktro-Pro-X-Performance-TRO-PCIe512GBPRO-X-Eluktronics/dp/B010800UGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445665223&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=B010800UGK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2)Samsung SM951 512GB NVMe MZVPV512HDGL-00000 M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD - OEM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK1162O?psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these do not support, please give me a link of a M.2 OF 512 GB which has good read and write speed like above and which supports Msi Ge62 Pro 004.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in Advance :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="ea1f427f-e442-4e34-940e-26a649f31276" CreationDate="2015-10-25T18:01:34.947" UserId="662" Text="What could be the best drive which supports Msi Ge62 apache pro 004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="ea1f427f-e442-4e34-940e-26a649f31276" CreationDate="2015-10-25T18:01:34.947" UserId="662" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="b2aa6ae6-36a0-4098-923e-54de04a06331" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:29:16.267" UserId="155" Comment="formatting overhaul; grammar and punctuation; improved links; removed tag; title clarification" Text="I did a lot of research, but the more I study about the M.2 slots the more I am getting confused. Can any one tell me which M.2 SSDs the [MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004](http://amzn.com/B0150PJR3K) supports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications page shows this: NVMe M.2 SSD by PCIe Gen3 X4 up to 2200MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about the size? I see that M.2 slots are divided under multiple categories B, M and B&amp;M. They are also of multiple sizes like 2232 to 22110. Are either of these SSDs supported by the GE62 Apache Pro-004:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Eluktro Pro-X Performance 512GB SSD](http://amzn.com/B010800UGK)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Samsung SM951 512GB NVMe SSD](http://amzn.com/B00VK1162O)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these are not supported, please give me a recommendation of an M.2 of 512GB which has good read and write speeds like those above and which is supported by the MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in Advance :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2808" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="b2aa6ae6-36a0-4098-923e-54de04a06331" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:29:16.267" UserId="155" Comment="formatting overhaul; grammar and punctuation; improved links; removed tag; title clarification" Text="What is the best drive supported by the MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2809" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="b2aa6ae6-36a0-4098-923e-54de04a06331" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:29:16.267" UserId="155" Comment="formatting overhaul; grammar and punctuation; improved links; removed tag; title clarification" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2810" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="39311bb5-8eed-43a0-bd88-93270f1c1196" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:47:53.957" UserId="638" Comment="4" />
  <row Id="2811" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="75acfb3f-fa3a-42bd-8cad-d185be8e388d" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:44:29.200" UserId="279" Comment="Added Gaming Tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2812" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="75acfb3f-fa3a-42bd-8cad-d185be8e388d" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:44:29.200" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 647 edit id of 211" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2813" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="dd5caf32-7601-40be-952b-dc505877c3e9" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:44:37.857" UserId="626" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I find it a very interesting options to extend my MacBooks storage capacity by permanently adding an SD card. One possible solution would be the [Transcend Jetdrive lite][1]. There are also other extension cards out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend a product / solution for my Macbook Pro (non-retina, mid 2012)? The extension should have at least 128 GB additional storage and it doesn't matter if it is a microSD adapter or a custom SD card as long as it doesn't stick out of the laptop case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://sg.transcend-info.com/apple/jetdrivelite/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="50cb2cb5-c20f-4ad5-986c-8fb593bdaf46" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:32:33.483" UserId="128" Text="I'm looking for a home printer that is capable of good quality prints. Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should have scan/copy capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- I should be able to connect via USB, Wi-Fi is a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- Price range for the printer should be low: under $150&#xD;&#xA;- Ink shouldn't be ridiculously expensive: Maximum $90 to get a full cartridge set (black and colour ink)&#xD;&#xA;- It should be available in Canada, eh!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2815" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="50cb2cb5-c20f-4ad5-986c-8fb593bdaf46" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:32:33.483" UserId="128" Text="Good printer with cheap ink" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2816" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="50cb2cb5-c20f-4ad5-986c-8fb593bdaf46" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:32:33.483" UserId="128" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="763" RevisionGUID="328c7a48-d276-40be-a628-55917080ac87" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:32:33.483" UserId="128" Text="I have the [Canon MX340 Series Printer](http://www.canon.ca/inetCA/en/arcproducts/method/gp/pid/1214).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of printer][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using ths printer for roughly 3-4 years and it's been consistently reliable. According to [this](http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2362811,00.asp) review, it comes for only $99, which is incredibly cheap. Ink is also really cheap: [a two-cartridge pack](http://www.staples.ca/en/Canon-PG-210XL-CL-211XL-Black-Colour-Ink-Cartridges-High-Yield-Value-Pack/product_775543_2-CA_1_20001) comes for around $60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The printer is accessible over USB, as well as Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;- It has Copy/Scan capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- And if I have one in Canada, it's probably available in Canada&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a few extras:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The UI on the printer is sleek, and easy to use. No fiddle of buttons that make you curse at a printer&#xD;&#xA;- It also has fax capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution for photo prints is really good, coming under 4800x600 dpi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an excellent printer that has served me well, and is reliable - I've used this countless times, and have made hundreds of jobs through it. I highly recommend it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/z98yt.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2818" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="582048f5-1296-40fe-9c74-77207faebb4e" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:33:40.590" UserId="8" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a home printer that is capable of good quality prints. Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should have scan/copy capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- I should be able to connect via USB, Wi-Fi is a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- Price range for the printer should be low: under $150&#xD;&#xA;- Ink shouldn't be ridiculously expensive: Maximum $90 to get a full cartridge set (black and colour ink)&#xD;&#xA;- It should be available in Canada.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Prices in Canadian dollars.&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2819" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="aee9a114-1f59-4242-869b-5071563a914b" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:47:14.840" UserId="1" Comment="Use ISO 4217 for currency. Debating whether it should be CAD x or CAD $x, though" Text="I'm looking for a home printer that is capable of good quality prints. Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should have scan/copy capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- I should be able to connect via USB, Wi-Fi is a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- Price range for the printer should be low: under CAD 150&#xD;&#xA;- Ink shouldn't be ridiculously expensive: Maximum CAD 90 to get a full cartridge set (black and colour ink)&#xD;&#xA;- It should be available in Canada." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2820" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="762" RevisionGUID="aee9a114-1f59-4242-869b-5071563a914b" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:47:14.840" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 128 edit id of 212" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="764" RevisionGUID="a019ca98-5452-4b70-ad5d-c3e14988a257" CreationDate="2015-10-25T23:04:54.543" UserId="1" Text="I've been using an [Apple Magic Trackpad 2](http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ2R2LL/A/magic-trackpad-2) for the past week or so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Magic_Trackpad_2.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It looks great on a desk, the poorly-lit Wikipedia picture doesn't do it justice. On a light wood desk, in warm light, it looks right at home. It also lines up well with a Magic Keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; - As as programmer, I click things a lot. Being able to adjust the click sensitivity is *wonderful* - I have it turned all the way down, which puts ever so much less stress on my hands:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Note that 'silent clicking' option there - this thing somehow can make noise when you click it beyond the noise generated by the Haptic Feedback thing - I don't know how they managed to hide a speaker in it (I've looked for it), but it's very realistic, rivaling the sound made by my MacBook's physical trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  I have it off because I don't like noise, but it's a neat thing to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The rechargeable battery is great, I haven't had to recharge it in the week or so I've had it. It also comes with its own Lightning cable, which you can steal and use to charge other iOS devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't know what they finished this with, but it feels *better* than my MacBook trackpad. It seems even less sticky - it might just be that I've worn some of the finish off my older trackpad, but this one definitely feels better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Doesn't require, **or support**, a stylus that isn't designed to work with capacitive surfaces, just like an iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$130 is a little steep, but for using it all day, it's completely worth it. Also comes with a standard 1 year warranty, and, in my experience, Apple means warranty when they say warranty. I've never had trouble getting them to honor one. That said, there's nothing in this to *break* - something electrical would have to go wrong, as there are no real moving parts. That in itself is a huge plus for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5TVZ7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/62LODm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2822" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="8f5bd8f4-2fbd-49fb-b3e6-bfa230150a20" CreationDate="2015-10-25T23:30:12.920" UserId="155" Comment="added relevant tag" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="bd34f386-a232-40e6-9fa9-4b5363b1049b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:01:19.750" UserId="476" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, F1 - F12, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2824" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="bd34f386-a232-40e6-9fa9-4b5363b1049b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:01:19.750" UserId="476" Text="Keyboard for windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2825" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="bd34f386-a232-40e6-9fa9-4b5363b1049b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:01:19.750" UserId="476" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="766" RevisionGUID="7bea47ea-0558-4e33-a168-f8c28106ddc3" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:14:23.947" UserId="531" Text="Its not quite just a keyboard but the logitech [MK220][1] is probably the smallest big keyboard I've ever used (comes with a mouse). Battery life is measure in years and standard batteries allround.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its full sized, just dosen't waste *any* space at all, nice clear non backlit keys. Runs on windows and linux, and wireless via a dongle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I paid 35sgd for the bundle, though of course, local prices vary. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-sg/product/wireless-combo-mk220?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/P0hyu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2827" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="c8c6ef6f-e568-4571-8b98-7c3c6e06f5d6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:24:05.557" UserId="476" Comment="added 143 characters in body" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, F1 - F12, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the top and bottom arrow keys are not smaller than the left and right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="766" RevisionGUID="77eb85eb-bc1a-489d-aaaf-842caee5813b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:31:09.373" UserId="476" Comment="Reduced white areas around the image" Text="Its not quite just a keyboard but the logitech [MK220][2] is probably the smallest big keyboard I've ever used (comes with a mouse). Battery life is measure in years and standard batteries allround.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its full sized, just dosen't waste *any* space at all, nice clear non backlit keys. Runs on windows and linux, and wireless via a dongle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I paid 35sgd for the bundle, though of course, local prices vary. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/g3UGE.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.logitech.com/en-sg/product/wireless-combo-mk220?crid=27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2829" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="766" RevisionGUID="77eb85eb-bc1a-489d-aaaf-842caee5813b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:31:09.373" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 531 edit id of 213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="767" RevisionGUID="eb74d828-dfa6-4d13-95c6-22f8a5eab8ab" CreationDate="2015-10-26T01:45:22.703" UserId="531" Text="From your comments on the other answer, and my own experiences, (and much to my own suprise)... dude, get a dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or specifically the l1100/SK-8115.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a keyboard snob. I have a backlit mechanical keyboard that over the years has mellowed down to a very comfortable piece of equipment, which some day I will hand over to my nephew. Its a elegant weapon for a more civilised time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes though, you just need a damned, basic, mass produced blaster that *shoots straight*. You need a chinese made hammer, not a tool worthy of the gods themselves, meant to create works of wonder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a dell. Its designed to be used by &lt;strike&gt;stormtroopers&lt;/strike&gt; your average office worker. I've never seen a stormtrooper's rifle misfire, and I've never seen one of these dead. My last place had a box of them, and supposedly you can get these *dirt* cheap. and they survived sysadmins and artists alike. Wipe em down every so often and they're good. They have a decent feel for &lt;strike&gt;a prolitarian&lt;/strike&gt; membrane keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, typically they are used, refurbished, or old new stock, but this keyboard is one of the few mere mortal ones that might, just might pass the lethality test. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full sized keys. *extra large* spacebar. Used it at my last job, and *it ain't half bad*.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/xeWW9.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2833" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="768" RevisionGUID="362222cd-9aeb-408b-910a-f2af6aa47e82" CreationDate="2015-10-26T03:41:24.263" UserId="60" Text="You should look into the [Logitech K120 Keyboard](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k120?crid=26). This keyboard meets all of your requirements, but none of your preferences. It costs $15 USD + shipping. It has a large font printed on the keys for maximum visibility. Every Logitech product that I have owned has lasted over 5 years. My mouse that just died made it almost to 7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech K120 Keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must connect through USB&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, F1 - F12, and a number pad)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must be QWERTY&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the top and bottom arrow keys are not smaller than the left and right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferences**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**X** A backlight (multi-colored?)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** Bluetooth connection&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CZH9X.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="5158e621-5cd5-4a34-8934-880c446e9e60" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:13:44.253" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar; title" Text="I find it a very interesting options to extend my MacBook's storage capacity by permanently adding an SD card. One possible solution would be the [Transcend Jetdrive Lite][1]. There are also other extension cards available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend a product / solution for my Macbook Pro (non-Retina, mid 2012)? The extension should have at least 128 GB additional storage, and it doesn't matter if it is a microSD adapter or a custom SD card as long as it doesn't stick out of the laptop case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://sg.transcend-info.com/apple/jetdrivelite/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2835" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="5158e621-5cd5-4a34-8934-880c446e9e60" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:13:44.253" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar; title" Text="SD card extension for a mid-2012 15&quot; MacBook Pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2836" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="5158e621-5cd5-4a34-8934-880c446e9e60" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:13:44.253" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 215" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="766" RevisionGUID="1f7323e7-9934-4dfb-bb8b-187d4e503a2d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:13:57.533" UserId="1" Comment="improve grammar" Text="It's not quite just a keyboard, but the [Logitech MK220][2] is probably the smallest big keyboard I've ever used (comes with a mouse). Battery life is measured in years and standard batteries allround.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its full sized, just dosen't waste *any* space at all, nice clear non-backlit keys. Works with Windows and Linux, and over wireless via a dongle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I paid SGD 35 for the bundle, though, of course, local prices vary. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech MK220][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/g3UGE.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.logitech.com/en-sg/product/wireless-combo-mk220?crid=27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2838" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="766" RevisionGUID="1f7323e7-9934-4dfb-bb8b-187d4e503a2d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:13:57.533" Comment="Proposed by 1 approved by 155, 57 edit id of 214" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="760" RevisionGUID="174c61b2-7427-4457-8334-8c0bb6486b18" CreationDate="2015-10-26T07:09:51.380" UserId="626" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="I find it a very interesting options to extend my MacBook's storage capacity by permanently adding an SD card. One possible solution would be the [Transcend Jetdrive Lite][1]. There are also other extension cards and microSD adapters available. I tried [this product i][2]n the past but it broke within weeks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend a product / solution for my Macbook Pro (non-Retina, mid 2012)? The extension should have at least 128 GB additional storage, and it doesn't matter if it is a microSD adapter or a custom SD card as long as it doesn't stick out of the laptop case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://sg.transcend-info.com/apple/jetdrivelite/&#xA;  [2]: http://theminidrive.theshoppad.com/#/product/theminidrive-pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="711" RevisionGUID="08ac0e8a-135f-42d9-bede-f0f549670fa8" CreationDate="2015-10-26T07:29:31.857" UserId="607" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a new laptop for my programming job. The problem is that I just don’t like laptops! I have to get this because I need to travel and meet with colleagues and have to do some work on site. This implies that there is a good chance that this is not going to be my main computer in the future.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I don't want to waste money (even the smallest amount) on a laptop that will be garbage in a year or so. If I have it I will use it, for as long as it lasts.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main jobs are performed in Eclipse, Netbeans and Android Studio. From what I have read around, these do not support multi-threading. So Intel would work better than AMD since (again from what I understood on the web) AMD has more cores, but single core speed of AMD is lower than that of Intel's. If I am using programs that can only use one core at a time then Intel should work better, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem is that I am in Greece, and I have to buy it from a store here, since it will have to go to my expenses. So I am guessing that not all models might be available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: a decent one that will last for some years (thinking i5 5200U)  &#xD;&#xA;- RAM: I am guessing 4GB for budget reasons, but would be nice to have extra slots for future upgrades if needed&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor: Would love a 17inch for ease of work, but (at least in the Greek market) 17' come with a lot of power that skyrocket the price. plus most I have seen come with HD, not FullHD, resulting a more or less the same effect (do you agree with that?)  &#xD;&#xA;- Storage: not important since I will use my desktop for any file storage/backup&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: It will be hard to help me on this one since prices are much different in every country, but I am guessing something in the 500-600 Euro range (US$560-640)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available in Greece&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Is an i3 with SSD as good as an i5 with HDD? some guy (that I trust) told me that, but I am not so sure I believe it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**  &#xD;&#xA;What about this:&#xD;&#xA;HP 15-ac011nv - 15.6&quot; &#xD;&#xA;(i7-5500U/4GB/500GB/HD 5500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU 	Intel Core i7-5500U 2.40 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- cache 	4 MB&#xD;&#xA;- RAM 	4 GB - DDR3 SDRAM - 1600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;- HDD	500 GB&#xD;&#xA;- monitor 	15.6&quot; BrightView WLED - 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics 	Intel HD Graphics 5500 - Shared Memory&#xD;&#xA;- 2 x USB 2.0, 1 x USB 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram might need some boosting. Will call them soon to ask the max ram that i can install, and how much an extra 4 costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price for some reason (ok i know 2, will see it in a sec) the price is really low for an I7 550 Euro&#xD;&#xA;The only drawback it seems that it is the low resolution screen and the GPU. I am not going to play any games on this anyway, nor i will watch any 4K movies.&#xD;&#xA;how about this then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**update**&#xD;&#xA;I did got the HP after all.&#xD;&#xA;It seems like a good one, i was disappointed that it's not easy to get the hdd out easily, since i have an extra ssd that i want to install instead. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="770" RevisionGUID="ea1ae4ee-1744-4831-a0bc-48a82df8a2a2" CreationDate="2015-10-26T10:39:58.773" UserId="674" Text="If your are into flat keyboards, I recommend the [Cherry Stream][1]. They just released a new revision with the 3.0. I'm using this keyboard for years and already bougth it twice. I can't recall how long the first one lasted but it was at last 5 years with intensive use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how much it is in the US but in Germany you can get it for less than 20€, which would be like 22$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't match any of your preferences but all your requirements. As others already said, your preferences don't really match the price your are willing to pay. If you are not willing to pay a lot more I suggest you settle for a good corded unlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cherry.de/cid/keyboards_CHERRY_STREAM_30.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=en&amp;WT.mc_id=#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="6d29b6ee-6b45-42ff-8269-8bba63f6dc97" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:00:29.940" UserId="476" Comment="Added  &lt;kbd&gt; tags" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;kbd&gt;F12&lt;/kbd&gt;, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the &lt;kbd&gt;↑&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;↓&lt;/kbd&gt; arrow keys are not smaller than the &lt;kbd&gt;←&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;→&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="770" RevisionGUID="259de2d6-bce9-4f9a-b586-30048b333d60" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:08:00.673" UserId="476" Comment="Added Picture" Text="If your are into flat keyboards, I recommend the [Cherry Stream][1]. They just released a new revision with the 3.0. I'm using this keyboard for years and already bougth it twice. I can't recall how long the first one lasted but it was at last 5 years with intensive use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how much it is in the US but in Germany you can get it for less than 20€, which would be like 22$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't match any of your preferences but all your requirements. As others already said, your preferences don't really match the price your are willing to pay. If you are not willing to pay a lot more I suggest you settle for a good corded unlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: [![http://www.cherry.de/cid/keyboards_CHERRY_STREAM_30.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=en&amp;WT.mc_id=#][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zKBgL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pHkBV.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2849" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="770" RevisionGUID="259de2d6-bce9-4f9a-b586-30048b333d60" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:08:00.673" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 216" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="770" RevisionGUID="b8497a5d-cba9-45e4-8c4b-8e5cb2352a7e" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:08:00.673" UserId="8" Comment="Added Picture" Text="If your are into flat keyboards, I recommend the [Cherry Stream][1]. They just released a new revision with the 3.0. I'm using this keyboard for years and already bought it twice. I can't recall how long the first one lasted but it was at last 5 years with intensive use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how much it is in the US but in Germany you can get it for less than 20€, which would be like 22$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't match any of your preferences but all your requirements. As others already said, your preferences don't really match the price your are willing to pay. If you are not willing to pay a lot more I suggest you settle for a good corded unlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cherry Stream keyboard - black][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![Cherry Stream keyboard - white][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cherry.de/cid/keyboards_CHERRY_STREAM_30.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=en&amp;WT.mc_id=#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zKBgL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pHkBV.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2851" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="d6c14e92-348d-4de8-8689-662358b6c391" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:10:57.013" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited tags" Text="I'm currently writing a story where in 2005 a guy built a time machine out of a old Ford Mustang, a Casio ClassPad 300 calculator, some scrap, and a gaming PC, but the problem I'm facing is that I only started to follow the PC hardware market in 2010, and know nothing about older stuff. Hoping someone here could enlighten me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some groundwork about this PC, but don't know how off I am.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC can only run on a single core CPU, due to something about how the machine works, and it makes error when a dual core CPU is used, so I thought about using an Intel Pentium 4, but what about the AMD side, is there something better there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other things I have thought about is 1GB of RAM, a 160GB HDD, Antec P180 Case, leaving out GPU and PSU, what was good back then?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing I thought about was using a custom Linux(Debian-based) as the OS, but how would that run on a '05 gaming tower?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC's duty is via the Casio calculator, is taking the date and using some highly advanced calculation to reprogram the circuit that drives the part that makes the car going through time, and outputs a speed + RPM the engine has to go before it can go through time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2852" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="755" RevisionGUID="d6c14e92-348d-4de8-8689-662358b6c391" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:10:57.013" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;legacy&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="cded6b91-6639-4928-9e16-86ac4b2219c0" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:19:46.653" UserId="681" Text="Here's the thing I've got. There's a presentation going to happen in some restaurant. My boss wants to place some three screens (most probably some big LCD TVs) in different places of the big hall. But the restaurant doesn't allow to put wires through the hall. I know there are some wireless HDMI receivers and transmitters on the market. But I am not sure about their robustness. The only idea that came to my mind is to buy some HDMI hub and three pairs of these wireless HDMI, connect it to my MacBook and run it like that. That would work, I think, but that's not elegant at all + it's pretty expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What experience did you have with these wireless HDMI receivers and transmitters? What models can you recommend? &#xD;&#xA;2. Any other ideas on how to solve the problem, rather than what I suggested?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="cded6b91-6639-4928-9e16-86ac4b2219c0" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:19:46.653" UserId="681" Text="Connecting three screens to the same laptop wirelessly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="cded6b91-6639-4928-9e16-86ac4b2219c0" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:19:46.653" UserId="681" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="677" RevisionGUID="82764506-d806-44b4-960e-5eba19ab922d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T16:28:55.640" UserId="155" Comment="added 174 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning the manufacturer's warranty on a piece of hardware. This tag should not be used to ask about a store's applied warranty as it is too region-specific." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2862" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="677" RevisionGUID="82764506-d806-44b4-960e-5eba19ab922d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T16:28:55.640" Comment="Proposed by 155 approved by 1 edit id of 189" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="772" RevisionGUID="18b307f1-4a2f-416c-9b49-30261ae47b2a" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:54:00.220" UserId="8" Text="Legacy hardware is hardware that is outdated, obsolete, or has fallen out of general use. Use this tag if your question asks about older hardware, such as [this question][1], which asks about gaming hardware in 2005.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/755/parts-for-a-gaming-pc-from-2005" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="773" RevisionGUID="62a5cbcf-bd5b-4d10-bc8d-f1e5c545f99c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:54:00.220" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for or about outdated or obsolete hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="774" RevisionGUID="b540bce1-ce52-4293-9cca-414419d73331" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:55:29.197" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="775" RevisionGUID="08407ad4-596a-4703-a25d-c5b1b69a5f58" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:55:29.197" UserId="8" Text="For questions about external display units for computers and other computing platforms such as consoles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2872" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="533" RevisionGUID="7ed51f61-dbab-438d-aca4-2f9a2b4c0758" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:56:56.997" UserId="8" Comment="added 316 characters in body" Text="A keyboard is a device that allows character input into a computer. These come in various key layout styles including,but not limited to, QWERTY, QWERTZ, AZERTY and Dvorak (for Latin based languages). Keyboards can be hardware or software based. Use this tag when dealing with character input based recommendations. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2873" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="534" RevisionGUID="023f8afc-97ec-4f8d-8bf0-2fb601d4b632" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:56:56.997" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 220 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that allow character-based text input into a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="776" RevisionGUID="92e22b61-1bf9-4789-83ad-4d150c03ce2c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:58:42.607" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="777" RevisionGUID="cab9e4f0-9638-44a0-adb5-3d132269c45d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:58:42.607" UserId="8" Text="For questions about geokinetic co-ordinate based input peripherals. Also known as mice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2876" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="778" RevisionGUID="2cfab94d-6e12-4652-b169-3085b375f869" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:03:12.257" UserId="1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="779" RevisionGUID="9cb9cced-8c9c-4f29-ab11-67ba2b3004b6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:03:12.257" UserId="1" Text="Use this tag when looking for a device to store data, long term or short term. Don't use this tag unless the device's primary purpose, or essential requirement, is data storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2878" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="a01c0031-8d22-41d5-9231-e9a445c73a99" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:28:37.803" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 22 characters in body" Text="Here's the thing I've got. There's a presentation going to happen in some restaurant. My boss wants to place some three screens (most probably some big LCD TVs) in different places of the big hall. But the restaurant doesn't allow to put wires through the hall. I know there are some wireless HDMI receivers and transmitters on the market. But I am not sure about their robustness. The only idea that came to my mind is to buy some HDMI hub and three pairs of these wireless HDMI, connect it to my MacBook and run it like that. That would work, I think, but that's not elegant at all + it's pretty expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What experience did you have with these wireless HDMI receivers and transmitters? What models can you recommend? &#xD;&#xA;2. Any other ideas on how to solve the problem, rather than what I suggested?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="780" RevisionGUID="e9c27817-ade7-4123-8d27-c75fcaa726a7" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:33:09.757" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="781" RevisionGUID="74007c82-7526-4589-92c2-4d5fe6f2af65" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:33:09.757" UserId="8" Text="For questions about graphics-optimised CPU/GPU technologies and devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="640" RevisionGUID="cf192fdf-3261-420f-8095-c91b2ec43cea" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:34:59.597" UserId="8" Comment="added 287 characters in body" Text="Bluetooth is a short range wireless communication protocol standardized in IEEE 802.15.1, and now maintained by the Bluetooth Special Interest Group. Use this tag when searching for a device that utilizes the Bluetooth communication protocol to communicate with other electronic devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2882" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="641" RevisionGUID="54a19f8b-fce8-4fe8-b115-1b9dd2b9a593" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:34:59.597" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 191 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that use a Bluetooth protocol interface to communicate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="782" RevisionGUID="cc5b637a-38a3-4000-a565-e7b8abf0b9c4" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:38:18.150" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="783" RevisionGUID="10c59ac0-3760-41aa-8de9-aa6bb935c531" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:38:18.150" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use magnetic storage as a storage mechanism." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="784" RevisionGUID="806d724a-8d7f-4a6e-882f-114495a89c39" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:54:53.570" UserId="650" Text="Wellll, this site is kinda quiet. Found a thread on spiceworks which is much more active. Found a couple of useful paths:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell X4012 is a 12port, 10GB managed, for $1239.&#xD;&#xA; - Netgear 12-Port ProSafe 10 Gigabit Smart Switch XS712T // Netgear has unmanaged option for sub $900, and managed optio for ~$1400&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="785" RevisionGUID="b4741e0d-766a-407f-9e40-6211d76bea4f" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:23:36.037" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="786" RevisionGUID="b762aa15-4623-42fa-af01-0c6a9ac23791" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:23:36.037" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use electronic signal variation to produce audible sounds." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="227" RevisionGUID="f4924c65-d082-464f-9fa6-ade64a5334f6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:24:19.503" UserId="8" Comment="added 164 characters in body" Text="A Solid State Drive (SSD) is a flash-based storage device using similar technology as thumb drives, but much faster and with a hard-disk interface, typically SATA. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="228" RevisionGUID="7623554a-a3cb-47aa-9dc6-7921a1627a04" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:24:19.503" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 81 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that use electronic state (via NAND/NOR) to store data." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="787" RevisionGUID="43b41ec6-6931-4280-a944-f39029ef3aa9" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:25:16.880" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="788" RevisionGUID="f436df17-0e93-440e-b2c8-ffa37cfdd5b9" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:25:16.880" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that have a High Definition Multimedia Interface input/output capability." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="789" RevisionGUID="d43fabae-e4a4-47ba-9ab4-6cbecb3cea64" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:26:08.340" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="790" RevisionGUID="7db51c93-5afe-4626-a4e3-dcbd1fea74df" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:26:08.340" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use or interface with Linux-based systems (such as Ubuntu)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2895" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="9bced9b7-57d1-4df5-8a8e-7429454fb618" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:02:36.660" UserId="476" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2896" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="64a14836-5ab0-42c2-bfb9-21f200e34cd0" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:07:02.147" UserId="476" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2897" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="0990d524-523d-4d0a-8bb5-ca5286242910" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:07:22.747" UserId="476" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="770" RevisionGUID="5814558e-1474-4945-8c96-23a622d0b30c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:14:26.930" UserId="674" Comment="added information about availability problem" Text="If your are into flat keyboards, I recommend the [Cherry Stream][1]. They just released a new revision with the 3.0. I'm using this keyboard for years and already bought it twice. I can't recall how long the first one lasted but it was at last 5 years with intensive use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how much it is in the US but in Germany you can get it for less than 20€, which would be like 22$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't match any of your preferences but all your requirements. As others already said, your preferences don't really match the price your are willing to pay. If you are not willing to pay a lot more I suggest you settle for a good corded unlit keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cherry Stream keyboard - black][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![Cherry Stream keyboard - white][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After discussion in the comments it seems that it is a little hard to obtain the keyboard in the US. The 3.0 was just introduced a few days ago. The predecessor is the Stream XT which I'm actually using and which is available [here][4] for 35$. Didn't think about Cherry being a German manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cherry.de/cid/keyboards_CHERRY_STREAM_30.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=en&amp;WT.mc_id=#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zKBgL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pHkBV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-eVolution-STREAM-Multimedia-Keyboard/dp/B001QUDJX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445889901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cherry%20stream" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="791" RevisionGUID="025b0efd-48d4-465c-87bc-ff35eede1632" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:40:30.263" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="792" RevisionGUID="df8aff81-1f03-4fe5-8a15-9e246d523de9" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:40:30.263" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that sends or receives simple wireless signals to perform a predetermined function or set of functions. Do not use this tag for wireless computing hardware such as routers or wireless PCIe cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="e5b6038d-34ed-449e-925b-7b131bc0ed4a" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:42:46.463" UserId="476" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;kbd&gt;F12&lt;/kbd&gt;, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the &lt;kbd&gt;↑&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;↓&lt;/kbd&gt; arrow keys are not smaller than the &lt;kbd&gt;←&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;→&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="793" RevisionGUID="d3ebf281-6a47-457a-82c5-e20cbb5a1fb9" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:51:08.170" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="794" RevisionGUID="99d00b3d-3cd0-4347-9b79-7ce8918c7680" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:51:08.170" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices using any wireless communication protocol. Use the protocol-specific tag where possible (Bluetooth, wi-fi, etc.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2905" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="794" RevisionGUID="e24ba58b-1254-4369-b7d1-85980990acea" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:51:17.697" UserId="155" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning the existing or potential wireless functionality of a computing device. Use the remote-control tag if the device is not directly related to computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="795" RevisionGUID="648d354d-ce4b-4415-b543-1b10dbcc7305" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:53:46.773" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="796" RevisionGUID="b271b853-df12-46e3-8f4a-185c9b325211" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:53:46.773" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use audiovisual protocols to display video via an output device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="797" RevisionGUID="c8a7467b-6235-4d4d-b43d-a18171b56069" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:54:49.003" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="798" RevisionGUID="2f849281-24f3-4e5f-a51b-84f25d5a6006" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:54:49.003" UserId="8" Text="For questions about motion (and usually sound) capture devices used to produce video files." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="799" RevisionGUID="8b64da3d-eb71-4d05-8677-b031c80d422d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:55:21.257" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2911" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="800" RevisionGUID="8632b400-66a3-4bf8-a237-a8a58b25fad3" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:55:21.257" UserId="8" Text="For questions about hardware that will be used in some kind of server (for example a web server)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="801" RevisionGUID="1f93fe29-f351-420b-a20b-528eb5eb3350" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:56:09.307" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="802" RevisionGUID="16a56b00-71ed-4b2d-8994-905f97919712" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:56:09.307" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices or hardware that is used to display the output of a computing device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="803" RevisionGUID="2e6011c6-8f8b-433b-9a13-f500ad2cf47d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:57:07.063" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="804" RevisionGUID="9b80d7e7-cac6-4ab1-8176-d1c9b2e98203" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:57:07.063" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to devices involved in electrical power control, regulation, or other management." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="768" RevisionGUID="c57e7792-d452-495e-9501-d349a68ccd50" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:57:17.457" UserId="60" Comment="Updated requirements list to match the list in the question" Text="You should look into the [Logitech K120 Keyboard](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k120?crid=26). This keyboard meets all of your requirements, but none of your preferences. It costs $15 USD + shipping. It has a large font printed on the keys for maximum visibility. Every Logitech product that I have owned has lasted over 5 years. My mouse that just died made it almost to 7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech K120 Keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must connect through USB&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;kbd&gt;F12&lt;/kbd&gt;, and a number pad)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must be QWERTY&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the &lt;kbd&gt;↑&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;↓&lt;/kbd&gt; arrow keys are not smaller than the &lt;kbd&gt;←&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;→&lt;/kbd&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;✔ Must be available in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferences**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**X** A backlight (multi-colored?)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** Bluetooth connection&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**X** If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CZH9X.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="805" RevisionGUID="17722a03-6d39-405b-b5af-9029e8ee0dac" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:57:36.487" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="806" RevisionGUID="d37a6f5a-4646-4ed2-b07d-c002c838d5ff" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:57:36.487" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to the use of multiple monitors. Consider also tagging your question with [monitors]." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2919" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="807" RevisionGUID="6428203d-71ee-426b-9473-80e2bad9df99" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:58:24.997" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="808" RevisionGUID="81a97df3-35eb-44ec-a036-722cf439d5df" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:58:24.997" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to hardware used for intercommunication over wired or wireless transport between computing platforms." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="809" RevisionGUID="6ed130ee-f3e0-4299-b6cd-042a7295f763" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:59:37.727" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="810" RevisionGUID="185f3d80-9ffe-40a6-84d2-ecfff0f7ceba" CreationDate="2015-10-26T20:59:37.727" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to the main control and interconnection component of a computer. Beware - a number of questions on this subject are off-topic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2923" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="811" RevisionGUID="2c98f6a3-d74f-4fef-a77b-4c695ba9aa5d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:00:13.073" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="812" RevisionGUID="f6e4051b-a864-4a3a-bbe0-cf7e20f8f4e2" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:00:13.073" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="For questions about the hardware used to store information for later use by a computing device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="813" RevisionGUID="864cb6c1-2292-4b2e-902e-878257075637" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:02:22.100" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="814" RevisionGUID="25841c4f-945d-43df-8c6d-551047877070" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:02:22.100" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to physical-digital image transcoders. Often interface with a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="815" RevisionGUID="f313e959-0db3-4238-b72d-4cc914405d25" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:04:28.443" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="816" RevisionGUID="35c86201-0150-4c5e-a109-5d59b52f2b64" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:04:28.443" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that transcode varying electrical signals to physical movement and sound." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2929" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="01a1a95c-2ddc-4022-8acd-38db9b2b76c7" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:04:38.913" UserId="476" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;kbd&gt;F12&lt;/kbd&gt;, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the &lt;kbd&gt;↑&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;↓&lt;/kbd&gt; arrow keys are not smaller than the &lt;kbd&gt;←&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;→&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to clarify, this keyboard will not be primarily for gaming. I would just like it to be capable of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2930" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="817" RevisionGUID="11166edb-6229-45df-829e-8722a6db700c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:05:30.943" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2931" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="818" RevisionGUID="9b8a009f-455a-4449-b934-ac0fd393db87" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:05:30.943" UserId="8" Text="For questions about protective cases for hardware. May be off-topic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="285" RevisionGUID="aba69229-2236-4ff0-9ceb-3a67f25caea3" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:07:53.040" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags; edited tags" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="781" RevisionGUID="f9c3d224-18ce-49c9-a038-d84dfd26557d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:08:14.550" UserId="155" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="For questions about standalone video- and graphics-processing PCIe cards. Do not use this tag for on-board CPU or motherboard graphics questions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="58aafe46-55d6-47ea-b59a-103ca64117a6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:12:42.333" UserId="476" Text="I've been contemplating purchasing an HDD enclosure. However, they all seem to be ~$20 which is too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be &lt; $15.&#xD;&#xA; - Must support USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Must support SATA2 and backward compatible w/ SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Must be 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Support for SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Support for USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA; - Support for thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple drive bays&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2.5 inch drives as well as 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find anything at this price range. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2935" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="58aafe46-55d6-47ea-b59a-103ca64117a6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:12:42.333" UserId="476" Text="HDD enclosure with USB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2936" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="58aafe46-55d6-47ea-b59a-103ca64117a6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:12:42.333" UserId="476" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;hdd-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="820" RevisionGUID="01335aa3-d700-4fb5-918a-ad1ec5081699" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:13:11.813" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="821" RevisionGUID="d630f8ae-2d07-42d9-b459-0fb10927fdd2" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:13:11.813" UserId="155" Text="For questions concerning the data encryption and security feature of a device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="822" RevisionGUID="4e8ed634-4b89-4f8d-a945-60ec0e24fdfc" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:13:30.740" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2940" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="823" RevisionGUID="204c9445-9800-480d-a832-a7f2def98818" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:13:30.740" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="823" RevisionGUID="770ef8e2-fda0-453c-b3d3-a4b4a8c4becd" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:15:28.077" UserId="476" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="An external enclosure for drives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2942" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="823" RevisionGUID="770ef8e2-fda0-453c-b3d3-a4b4a8c4becd" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:15:28.077" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2943" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="823" RevisionGUID="cc21a60c-8251-43bb-8abb-560ae8f60d7b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:15:28.077" UserId="8" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="For questions about external enclosures for drives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2944" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="51" RevisionGUID="fa3cbe36-5020-47c7-8d02-d3cf6fd15929" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:15:30.407" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags" Text="&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2945" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="495" RevisionGUID="c5a7f3f2-3a83-40e4-a428-9c1d04a6f5a2" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:16:57.107" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2946" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="580" RevisionGUID="b1af0425-18ca-46e0-a3c8-7e5fe197e2bc" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:20:16.173" UserId="476" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="2947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="ba7e4277-4072-4d7d-a733-d30ab94e62c6" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:26:55.013" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 42 characters in body" Text="I've been contemplating purchasing an HDD enclosure. However, they all seem to be ~$20 which is too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be &lt; $15.&#xD;&#xA; - Must support USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Must support SATA2 and backward compatible w/ SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Must be 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Support for SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Support for USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA; - Support for thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple drive bays&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2.5 inch drives as well as 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find anything at this price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="824" RevisionGUID="c080dae4-c759-49cf-b7d3-d85ccbb96fcb" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:46:41.230" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="825" RevisionGUID="88347de4-e1d9-43f4-8fa3-ab2a2396d560" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:46:41.230" UserId="155" Text="For questions about central processing units (CPUs) used in anything from micro-PCs to servers and workstations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2950" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="11f6dbed-35dd-4fa9-995f-85595871d7d8" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:49:29.373" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2951" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="bcb44e6d-febc-4357-b4fd-9f20b24d8db9" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:50:16.963" UserId="155" Comment="changed out tag" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2952" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="314" RevisionGUID="44e3571f-8b9d-4d2b-9c86-d08c77e7f4e4" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:52:47.110" UserId="1" Comment="Test syntax" Text="For questions concerning hardware that will be used for [tag:gaming]." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2953" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="314" RevisionGUID="92cf9729-b20b-46eb-8d71-1b5faf115f55" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:52:53.403" UserId="1" Comment="Rollback to [9563c73c-bbac-4919-ab15-3e4091675b85]" Text="For questions concerning hardware that will be used for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="775" RevisionGUID="bb37829d-9f3b-4231-961f-8163e6f2024a" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:54:41.550" UserId="155" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="For questions about external display units for computers and other computing platforms such as consoles. Use the [displays] tag if the screen is embedded into the hardware in question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2955" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="826" RevisionGUID="72201ae9-fd34-4f8e-9b17-8475f4e6b8d2" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:54:53.000" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="827" RevisionGUID="0ae4f177-03cc-44db-8ae4-d11c38c3a7a8" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:54:53.000" UserId="8" Text="For questions about protective enclosures for hard drives of any type." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="783" RevisionGUID="9f682229-3d72-4c1a-bc3f-f2856a08400d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:57:02.200" UserId="155" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that use magnetic disk storage as a data storage mechanism." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="794" RevisionGUID="38519b3f-c5b1-4c64-be73-d26bca7cdc5d" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:58:26.310" UserId="155" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning the existing or potential wireless functionality of a computing device. Use the [remote-control] tag if the device is not directly related to computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2959" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="de195d6b-8527-4bf0-8905-3ebcfa15b3e0" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:58:43.383" UserId="1" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a device half laptop, half all-in-one, half barebone, to adjust the price to my exact needs. You can see it as either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Non-touchscreen, non-iOS/Android, long-hours directly chargable tablet with some adjustable stand&#xD;&#xA;- Non-touchscreen, &lt;21&quot;, portable all-in-one&#xD;&#xA;- Laptop without a keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know if I can find something in 2015 close to this specs? What I am searching is an:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All-In-One (Screen with an internal computer), crafted with portability in mind, preferredly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**With:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good display: I am going to use it for developing long hours, and I have some eyesight problems. 15&quot;-17&quot; would be perfect, Ergonomics are important so I'd expect an adjustable stand (or a third-party compatible base) to make it perpendicular to my body when placed over the table&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance: an i5 at least, not ridicule RAM and an SSD is a must (128Gb at least)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is I wanted it as minimal/barebone as possible, **I don't need**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Powerful graphic card: I am not a graphic designer nor 3D renderer &#xD;&#xA;   - OS nor Bloatware: Just like barebone NUCs, I'll install Ubuntu myself&#xD;&#xA;   - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;   - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;   - Webcam&#xD;&#xA;   - Microphone&#xD;&#xA;   - Keyboard nor mouse (I'll buy some ergonomical on my own)&#xD;&#xA;   - fancy sound output (I would even rennounce to it)&#xD;&#xA;   - SD Cards, ID readers, fingerprints and so on...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a large desktop media center for all those fancy media uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a screen-pc with a bunch of USB 3.0 ports and a Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;That should allow me to get a good deal with acceptable horsepower, if it existed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for assisting me and pointing to any brand or model! :)&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="828" RevisionGUID="0dcdd769-c743-4c72-b377-c666f3f5b18c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:13:51.900" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="829" RevisionGUID="ed5e5da5-434f-4c83-8eaf-d73ce6d6422c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:13:51.900" UserId="155" Text="For questions about standalone music players no matter what the format is (MP3, WAV, FLAC, OGG, etc.)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="830" RevisionGUID="a3b94463-423b-4a39-a946-edba7349a24b" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:16:55.367" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2963" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="831" RevisionGUID="b579ed83-747b-408a-93da-00aad20924fa" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:16:55.367" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware incorporating Apple's Thunderbolt I/O connection technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="832" RevisionGUID="deab565a-a61b-4cdb-9835-f9d076bc85cb" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:18:38.470" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="833" RevisionGUID="18c57a8d-165e-4b81-92ba-7c7e0df47950" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:18:38.470" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the heat-reduction and dissipation component of a device (typically on a CPU or graphics card)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="834" RevisionGUID="59a31f79-0578-4412-a85a-5907e0198606" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:25:44.893" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="835" RevisionGUID="666e3b37-7d20-4429-b0a0-822022d678eb" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:25:44.893" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices used to manage and operate RAID drive arrays either on-board or externally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="802" RevisionGUID="b91d9345-848a-4d57-84aa-06daa9c26e33" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:51:52.283" UserId="155" Comment="added 77 characters in body" Text="For questions about screens that are internally incorporated in a larger device (e.g., smartphones and e-readers). Use this tag to ask about hardware that will have a screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2969" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="836" RevisionGUID="929314ef-ee8d-4907-853a-f1c5202fb98c" CreationDate="2015-10-26T23:13:00.403" UserId="650" Text="The best webcam I have used are the various models of Microsoft lifecam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is really sweet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/webcams/lifecam-studio/q2f-00013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="481" RevisionGUID="2b2bc6b7-5c25-4a97-a0d1-714e8516c435" CreationDate="2015-10-26T23:50:37.690" UserId="155" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="For years now, the only webcam I've (rarely) used is the [Logitech C200](http://support.logitech.com/product/webcam-c200). This is by far outdated now and I'm looking for a high-quality, powerful webcam that would be ideal for streaming. I've looked through the well-known Logitech webcams, and there are some good ones but not quite what I need. These specs are required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;- H.264 video compression&#xD;&#xA;- manual and/or auto focusing&#xD;&#xA;- \&gt; 30fps (something around 45 or 60 fps is ideal)&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&#xD;&#xA;- 5 or more megapixels (optional, since this is almost nonexistent)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally, an independent stand and built-in stereo mics would come in handy every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="836" RevisionGUID="e947a3ab-ee4e-4684-8898-87c3391a2b11" CreationDate="2015-10-27T00:30:21.680" UserId="650" Comment="added 279 characters in body" Text="The best webcam I have used are the various models of Microsoft lifecam. With the lifecam, I have had good success with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HD quality&#xD;&#xA;- Great color balance (the best I have had with any cam)&#xD;&#xA;- Very good low light operation and color balance -- best I have experienced.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lifecam Studio, which is a notch above the lifecam model I have used, looks to meet all your specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/webcams/lifecam-studio/q2f-00013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2972" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="510" RevisionGUID="7a40316d-b0f1-4561-84b7-e0285f2c3354" CreationDate="2015-10-27T00:57:49.900" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2973" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="436" RevisionGUID="78a2903d-0909-4505-b41f-664b4337a684" CreationDate="2015-10-27T01:01:18.913" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="725aad98-ed6f-4367-be9b-8f1f4542748d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T01:50:36.983" UserId="662" Comment="deleted 288 characters in body; edited title" Text="I did a lot of research but the more I study about the M.2 slots the more i am getting confused. Can any one tell me MSI ge 62 pro 004 supports which m.2 ssd?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications page shows as follows: NVMe M.2 SSD by PCIe Gen3 X4 up to 2200MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about the size I see that m.2 slots are divided under multiple category B, M and B&amp;M. They are also of multiple sizes like 2232 to 22110 Does this ssd support ge62 pro 004: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 950 PRO -Series 512GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD 2-Inch MZ-V5P512BW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this does not support, please give me a link of a M.2 OF 512 GB which has good read and write speed like above and which supports Msi Ge62 Pro 004.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in Advance :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2978" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="725aad98-ed6f-4367-be9b-8f1f4542748d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T01:50:36.983" UserId="662" Comment="deleted 288 characters in body; edited title" Text="What could be the best M.2 SSD drive which supports Msi Ge62 apache pro 004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2979" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="179" RevisionGUID="3bf9ee3d-3013-4ece-afe0-5584974766eb" CreationDate="2015-10-27T01:54:21.593" UserId="155" Comment="changed tag" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2980" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="155" RevisionGUID="1add1d53-d837-464f-8c81-8a5893a0bb5e" CreationDate="2015-10-27T01:57:21.177" UserId="155" Comment="changed tags" Text="&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="542" RevisionGUID="10e5eede-fdbd-409f-bcc6-42932e43c1c2" CreationDate="2015-10-27T02:02:16.353" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="A headset requires a microphone input in addition to earpieces. Use the [headphones] tag to ask about a device consisting only of earpieces for listening to audio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="837" RevisionGUID="1548b809-7e76-4300-855c-eb740623c1a4" CreationDate="2015-10-27T02:06:32.680" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="838" RevisionGUID="db4a06ff-516a-4996-8bc9-a492a77910b8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T02:06:32.680" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that are worn over the eyes and are connected to a computer to display near-lifelike visuals." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2989" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="b50d8031-cfcb-4b49-8d2d-85d4fa2a4084" CreationDate="2015-10-27T03:46:10.360" UserId="1" Comment="Rollback to [b2aa6ae6-36a0-4098-923e-54de04a06331]" Text="I did a lot of research, but the more I study about the M.2 slots the more I am getting confused. Can any one tell me which M.2 SSDs the [MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004](http://amzn.com/B0150PJR3K) supports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications page shows this: NVMe M.2 SSD by PCIe Gen3 X4 up to 2200MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about the size? I see that M.2 slots are divided under multiple categories B, M and B&amp;M. They are also of multiple sizes like 2232 to 22110. Are either of these SSDs supported by the GE62 Apache Pro-004:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Eluktro Pro-X Performance 512GB SSD](http://amzn.com/B010800UGK)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Samsung SM951 512GB NVMe SSD](http://amzn.com/B00VK1162O)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these are not supported, please give me a recommendation of an M.2 of 512GB which has good read and write speeds like those above and which is supported by the MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in Advance :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostHistoryTypeId="7" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="b50d8031-cfcb-4b49-8d2d-85d4fa2a4084" CreationDate="2015-10-27T03:46:10.360" UserId="1" Comment="Rollback to [b2aa6ae6-36a0-4098-923e-54de04a06331]" Text="What is the best drive supported by the MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="761" RevisionGUID="307b1afb-1f04-40f3-a0b3-ee75a326a299" CreationDate="2015-10-27T03:46:26.753" UserId="1" Comment="Remove thanks" Text="I did a lot of research, but the more I study about the M.2 slots the more I am getting confused. Can any one tell me which M.2 SSDs the [MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004](http://amzn.com/B0150PJR3K) supports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications page shows this: NVMe M.2 SSD by PCIe Gen3 X4 up to 2200MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about the size? I see that M.2 slots are divided under multiple categories B, M and B&amp;M. They are also of multiple sizes like 2232 to 22110. Are either of these SSDs supported by the GE62 Apache Pro-004:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Eluktro Pro-X Performance 512GB SSD](http://amzn.com/B010800UGK)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Samsung SM951 512GB NVMe SSD](http://amzn.com/B00VK1162O)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these are not supported, please give me a recommendation of an M.2 of 512GB which has good read and write speeds like those above and which is supported by the MSI GE62 Apache Pro-004." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2992" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="e40295ba-3c18-44aa-b406-5a9a47805f7e" CreationDate="2015-10-27T04:09:51.003" UserId="155" Comment="removed tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2993" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="17880738-8fad-4440-b22e-430044405121" CreationDate="2015-10-27T04:14:18.117" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for an external USB 3.0 hub for under $50 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - At least 5 ports (More the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Works on Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - External&#xD;&#xA; - Looks nice mounted in one place (I won't be moving it, so it doesn't need to be portable or small)&#xD;&#xA; - Able to transfer data to/from PC through multiple ports at once&#xD;&#xA; - Able to transfer data between ports directly (Ex: from one external HDD to another)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'd be nice to have an individual power switch for each port, but not required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2994" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="341" RevisionGUID="17880738-8fad-4440-b22e-430044405121" CreationDate="2015-10-27T04:14:18.117" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Cheap USB 3.0 hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="840" RevisionGUID="e0a01fd0-6df1-4dc9-bc32-86a83e9d81e8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T05:10:10.747" UserId="57" Text="I've helped to install an Amcrest system in the past. I can't remember if it was the [8-Channel][1] or [16-Channel][2] one, as both come with 8 cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We installed 3 cameras outside&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and 5 inside. The outside ones have withstood two mid-western United States winters. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Installation of the cameras took time, but there wasn't much that was difficult about it. You need to keep track of what camera (and associated wires) you have plugged in. It'll make your life easier during set up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system I installed had 4 TB of space. The specs say this is good for 6 days of continuous monitoring. However, we set up this system to record based on motion and scheduled times when the system doesn't need to be recording, so there is more than 6 days of footage. Plus...do you really want to stare at 8 hours of night vision where nothing moves when you are looking for something that occurred?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system has an Android app. It works well on both a phone and a tablet. You can use either to view live footage or archived footage. (Caution...watching video over the cell network will eat through a data plan quickly)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;If you go with this system, figure out where you are going to put the DVR and the cameras prior to purchasing the system. Then, measure how much cable you are going to need. What came with the system wasn't long enough for a few of the cameras we installed initially. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-960H-Video-Security-System/dp/B00YZF8GFC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-960H-Video-Security-System/dp/B00YZF8NV4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="841" RevisionGUID="c8251301-1875-4118-835d-4672f440221b" CreationDate="2015-10-27T05:19:55.890" UserId="203" Text="As a starting point, I'd recommend the Haswell-E i7 5820K. 6 cores on the X99 platform, similar to the Xeon E5 16xx v3s but cheaper, unlocked and without certain server features, it can currently be purchased at [U$320 if you live near a microcenter][1], and [U$390 if you don't][2]. The clock speed can be increased, through you shouldn't expect much above 4.5 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Haswell-E does not pack a stock cooler, and it's recommend to spend a bit to get a big, tower air cooler. The [Cryorig R1 Ultimate is U$90 at newegg][3], and is a decent performing 140mm cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want a mid range motherboard and don't need any special features, [the ASUS X99-A/USB 3.1 has a combo deal with the 5820K][4]. Take a kit of [CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB)][5], fairly low latency, and you can later drop another kit in for 64 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [2 TB Seagate Barracuda is a good low cost HDD for mass storage][6], and if you want, you can also get a SSD for fast boot times. [I'd recommend the OCZ ARC 100, 240 GB if you just put the main OS (Hypervisor if type I) on it][7], 480 GB if you want your VMs' VHDs on it as well. [The ARC 100 is a MLC SSD with decent performance for the price][8], though it is a bit slower than the 850 EVO, it's also cheaper, and the difference will likely be only around 4-5 seconds in boot time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since there isn't a big power hungry graphics card, a 550W PSU should be fine. My suggestion is the [Fractal Design Edison M 550W][9]. It's a Seasonic made, semi-modular, 80+ Gold PSU, with mostly Japanese capacitors. It is out of stock at the moment though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the case, I'd recommend the [Fractal Design Define R5][10], a reasonably spacy ATX Mid-Tower, that has good airflow while still being super quiet. You can get the windowed version for $10 extra, if you want to see inside your computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total is about $1400 USD, from newegg.com, which is about the same price as the Motherboard (incl SoC) + RAM for the option by Journeyman Geek. The Haswell-E 6 core should be more than enough to keep all your VMs happy. If you want to overclock, 4 GHz isn't hard to achieve. Note that Broadwell-E should be out soon, and you can get that if you aren't in a hurry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microcenter.com/product/437203/Core_i7-5820k_33_GHz_LGA_2011-V3_Tray_Processor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H68938&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132516&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233731&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148834&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820228116&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/SanDisk-Ultra-II-240GB-vs-OCZ-ARC-100-240GB/2548vs2603&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817580018&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352048" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="24f1254c-ffda-4f05-b3fa-2947514ca631" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:10:24.083" UserId="543" Text="I am building a PC specifically for programming. I mainly use Android Studio and Eclipse which are both quite heavy programs. This is why I would like to get a better CPU / more RAM. Which of the following would make a bigger difference in performance and which do you think is more worth it? Currently, to fit my budget I can upgrade either the CPU or RAM which is why I need some help on deciding which one would benefit me more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5 Quad Core i5 - 6600K (3.5 GHz) 6MB Cache **-- &gt;** Intel Core i7 Quad Core i7 - 6700 (3.4 GHz) 8MB Cache.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***OR***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (2 x 8) --&gt; 32GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (4 x 8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend upgrading?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="24f1254c-ffda-4f05-b3fa-2947514ca631" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:10:24.083" UserId="543" Text="Which would make a greater difference? Extra CPU or RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3003" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="24f1254c-ffda-4f05-b3fa-2947514ca631" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:10:24.083" UserId="543" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3004" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="844" RevisionGUID="185d3230-238c-4df7-be17-8fa4921bdd8d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:34:22.990" UserId="692" Text="I have a *&quot;Intel Pentium CPU G2030 @ 3.0GHz&quot;* processor, and a *&quot;Intel HD Graphics&quot;* graphics card. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;**General CPU info**&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;Cores = 2&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Threads = 2&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Bus speed = 99.76MHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Max TDP = 55.0W&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Core Speed = ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;**General GPU info**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;GPU = GT1&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;GPU clock = 650 MHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Transistors = 1.4 B&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Bandwidth = 21.3GB/s&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Multi-GPU = Disabled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rendering time of ~4 hrs video(1-pass, mpeg-2, avg. bitrate=1.8Mbps) in Sony Vegas 13 Pro took roughly 3 hours. For me, I prefer 2-pass, which is better output quality, but expense double in time (6 hrs...).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know much about processors or graphics card, and I don't know which is better at rendering + encoding. Could you recommend some of it for me? Prices below $200, and TDP below 80 would be great. Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3005" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="844" RevisionGUID="185d3230-238c-4df7-be17-8fa4921bdd8d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:34:22.990" UserId="692" Text="Recommendation for processors specialized for rendering and encoding" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3006" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="844" RevisionGUID="185d3230-238c-4df7-be17-8fa4921bdd8d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:34:22.990" UserId="692" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="845" RevisionGUID="f4f4b12c-d6c9-41c9-b3c5-1d2f68b4c9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-27T12:20:03.567" UserId="389" Text="Computer cables will often have clunky plastic cylinders at each end called &quot;ferrite cores&quot; or &quot;ferrite beads&quot; or &quot;ferrite chokes&quot;.  They look like this:&#xD;&#xA;[![Cable with ferrite core][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I consider these things a bug, not a feature.  They're clunky, ugly, and annoying.  They were really designed for analogue signals, which makes it particularly unfortunate that most DVI cables seem to have them - I am only using DVI to carry a digital signal, so they are definitely not needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only DVI cables I actually have that don't have these beads on them are the ones that came bundled with my KVM switch - they carry a digital DVI signal just fine.  I'd like some advice on how to find some new DVI cables *without* ferrite beads on them.  They all seem to have them (even the cheaper ones) - does anyone know of some that don't?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CejVV.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3008" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="845" RevisionGUID="f4f4b12c-d6c9-41c9-b3c5-1d2f68b4c9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-27T12:20:03.567" UserId="389" Text="Finding DVI cables without ferrite beads / cores" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="845" RevisionGUID="f4f4b12c-d6c9-41c9-b3c5-1d2f68b4c9ad" CreationDate="2015-10-27T12:20:03.567" UserId="389" Text="&lt;dvi&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3013" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="848" RevisionGUID="ae9ef069-3623-4f07-a1ae-c9d7b56a7643" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:50:16.410" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/241024/how-many-tf2-servers-would-this-vps-be-able-to-run" />
  <row Id="3016" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="848" RevisionGUID="b90a5684-c181-42b9-bbac-aabe98c7497f" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:28:42.893" UserDisplayName="Puck" Text="I've been renting from a certain company for a while now, and I'm currently thinking of switching to NFOServers because I would get a cheaper deal since I plan to expand the servers further. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However it's not going to be many servers, so I was wondering if it would be possible to at least get 3 servers running on NFOServers' &quot;Two Core VPS&quot; plan?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs (If you're too lazy to open their site):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Two full, dedicated HT CPU cores (Nehalem or better)&#xD;&#xA;    2048 MB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;    200 GB of RAID-protected storage&#xD;&#xA;    8000 GB of bandwidth transfer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, how many servers will I be able to have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3017" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="848" RevisionGUID="b90a5684-c181-42b9-bbac-aabe98c7497f" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:28:42.893" UserDisplayName="Puck" Text="How many TF2 servers would this VPS be able to run?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="848" RevisionGUID="b90a5684-c181-42b9-bbac-aabe98c7497f" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:28:42.893" UserDisplayName="Puck" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3019" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="848" RevisionGUID="54173599-a781-4e3f-9e4c-5e15a706164e" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:51:49.493" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="844" RevisionGUID="601a33a5-350e-4e36-82a9-a71b1f8ff925" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:13:54.500" UserId="692" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="I have a *&quot;Intel Pentium CPU G2030 @ 3.0GHz&quot;* processor, and a *&quot;Intel HD Graphics&quot;* graphics card. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;**General CPU info**&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;Cores = 2&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Threads = 2&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Bus speed = 99.76MHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Max TDP = 55.0W&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Core Speed = ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;**General GPU info**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;GPU = GT1&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;GPU clock = 650 MHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Transistors = 1.4 B&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Bandwidth = 21.3GB/s&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Multi-GPU = Disabled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;**Time taken for a 30 mins video to encode (h.264) with handbrake**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**(Using all CPU cores)**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;2-pass, profile=main, preset=slow : 1hr 30mins&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2-pass, profile=main, preset=medium : 1hr&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2-pass, profile=main, preset=fast : 45mins&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2-pass, profile=main, preset=very fast(handbrake &quot;normal&quot; default) : 25mins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know much about processors or graphics card, and I don't know which is better at rendering + encoding. Could you recommend some of it for me? Prices below $200, and TDP below 80 would be great. Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3022" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="21af1e55-4396-41a5-81a3-883e4b36a838" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:15:48.450" UserId="697" Text="I am a developer and I can now afford to buy a good keyboard for work. What do you recommend for a good ergonomic keyboard preferable with media controls. Does not need to be ergonomic. Looking cool would be nice but not a big deal. Basically what keyboard do you recommend for a developer (Windows local machine but vnc into linux most of the time)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="21af1e55-4396-41a5-81a3-883e4b36a838" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:15:48.450" UserId="697" Text="Premium Keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="21af1e55-4396-41a5-81a3-883e4b36a838" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:15:48.450" UserId="697" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="d53bfde5-4449-4aa0-b67f-a181d732ed63" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:30:29.193" UserId="696" Text="reliable and around $500, using it for 5 corner home surveilance and a few indoor cameras pointing at living room and down the bedroom hallway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - system comes with/has at least 4 cameras and 8chc&#xD;&#xA; - PTZ bidirectional audio indoor/outdoor cameras&#xD;&#xA; - night vision&#xD;&#xA; - motion sensing&#xD;&#xA; - viewing distance of at least 50ft&#xD;&#xA; - can store captures for 30+ days (i live in a cul-de-sac so not a lot of traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 720p&#xD;&#xA; - has android app&#xD;&#xA; - bonus: has api&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a big list and I've done some shopping on amazon but I wanted to see what other people have found and amazon's selection is limited to a few vendors.  I realize that I can't get everything on the list. The systems I'm looking at are from Armcrest, Best Vision, and Funlux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also up for mixing and matching components, but I don't know if mixing and matching works due to compatibility and other things. I'm a software developer, comfortable building PCs, not sure if that helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3027" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="d53bfde5-4449-4aa0-b67f-a181d732ed63" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:30:29.193" UserId="696" Text="reliable indoor/outdoor weatherproof home camera system for around $500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3028" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="d53bfde5-4449-4aa0-b67f-a181d732ed63" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:30:29.193" UserId="696" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="852" RevisionGUID="e95fb3ce-e68f-4e7c-bc57-59f9cb11aa1f" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:31:32.080" UserId="57" Text="A Team Fortress 2 server uses about 500MB of ram for a 24 person server, with SourceMod and a few basic plugins running. The storage space you have is more than sufficient for 3 servers, as long as you aren't loading a ton of giant, uncompressed maps. The 8000GB of bandwidth will be fine for 3 servers. (I've run 14 servers on a 10000GB line, with a fast download server and never gotten close to 8000GB in a month). Compress your maps. You'll keep your bandwidth usage down and your players happy - downloading a 10 MB map is much faster than a 70 MB map.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem you may have is that you only have 2 cores. If you are running vanilla servers, you'll be fine. If you are running heavily modified game modes, you may experience issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also worth noting that MvM is very processor intensive. If you are running a MvM server, you will not be able to run 3 servers with only two cores. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the package you are considering, provided that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You are not running an MvM server&#xD;&#xA; - You are not running a mod like dodgeball and a lot of projectiles. A single or double projectile game should be fine&#xD;&#xA; - You know how to compress that maps to save bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="0359fa22-6ad5-4932-bd1a-70c7f46b1d74" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:31:47.857" UserId="1" Comment="added 70 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need a home camera system. It should be reliable and cost around $500, using it for 5 corner home surveillance and a few indoor cameras pointing at living room and down the bedroom hallway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Come with/has at least 4 cameras and 8chc&#xD;&#xA; - PTZ bidirectional audio indoor/outdoor cameras&#xD;&#xA; - night vision&#xD;&#xA; - motion sensing&#xD;&#xA; - viewing distance of at least 50ft&#xD;&#xA; - be able to store captures for 30+ days (I live in a cul-de-sac, so not a lot of traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 720p&#xD;&#xA; - have an Android app&#xD;&#xA; - bonus: have an API&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a big list and I've done some shopping on amazon but I wanted to see what other people have found and amazon's selection is limited to a few vendors.  I realize that I can't get everything on the list. The systems I'm looking at are from Armcrest, Best Vision, and Funlux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also up for mixing and matching components, but I don't know if mixing and matching works due to compatibility and other things. I'm a software developer, comfortable building PCs, not sure if that helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="0359fa22-6ad5-4932-bd1a-70c7f46b1d74" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:31:47.857" UserId="1" Comment="added 70 characters in body; edited title" Text="Reliable indoor/outdoor weatherproof home camera system for around $500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="b8122177-aeb3-4443-a579-f35d075572fd" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:36:57.470" UserId="696" Comment="fixed typo and added clarification" Text="I need a home camera system. It should be reliable and cost around $500, using it for 5 corner home surveillance and a few indoor cameras pointing at living room and down the bedroom hallway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Come with/has at least 4 cameras and 8ch DVR&#xD;&#xA; - PTZ (all three), bidirectional audio, indoor/outdoor, weather proof cameras&#xD;&#xA; - night vision&#xD;&#xA; - motion sensing&#xD;&#xA; - viewing distance of at least 50ft&#xD;&#xA; - be able to store captures for 30+ days (I live in a cul-de-sac, so not a lot of traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 720p&#xD;&#xA; - have an Android app&#xD;&#xA; - bonus: have an API&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a big list and I've done some shopping on amazon but I wanted to see what other people have found and amazon's selection is limited to a few vendors.  I realize that I can't get everything on the list. The systems I'm looking at are from Armcrest, Best Vision, and Funlux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also up for mixing and matching components, but I don't know if mixing and matching works due to compatibility and other things. I'm a software developer, comfortable building PCs, not sure if that helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="f5c52ef9-f246-470f-8c3e-25a9f8dfe674" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:46:06.157" UserId="697" Comment="added 120 characters in body" Text="I am a developer and I can now afford to buy a good keyboard for work. What do you recommend for a good ergonomic keyboard preferable with media controls. Does not need to be ergonomic. Looking cool would be nice but not a big deal. Basically what keyboard do you recommend for a developer (Windows local machine but vnc into linux most of the time)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does not need to be portable and there isn't much of a constraint cost. Mostly I am looking for something ergonomic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="853" RevisionGUID="843a643d-8ef3-4dc7-b8e7-7f795dec2270" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:02:05.880" UserId="653" Text="I started renting a VPS ([&quot;Platinum X8&quot; VPS from Server4You][1]), it has the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 16 Cores (Intel Xeon E5550);&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 18GB (30GB Burst);&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 800GB;&#xD;&#xA; - Bandwidth: 100Mbits/s (*though I did get 430MB/s with `speedtest-cli`, so might actually be a Gigabit connection*)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using this VPS for a single Minecraft server, along with a Teamspeak 3 server &amp; webserver (with MySQL server). The website runs a forum and will eventually only get moderate traffic (&lt;100 connections at a time), &amp; I plan for the Teamspeak server to have double the amount of slots of the Minecraft server (*I plan to apply for a non-profit license when traffic picks up)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the VPS is on a monthly contract, I am able to cancel it and go elsewhere at any time; if the Minecraft server starts to outgrow the VPS, I can upgrade to a different VPS package (*elsewhere, since this is the top VPS package at the provider*) or even a dedicated server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, the Minecraft server has *125 slots*; can it go higher with the current hardware specifications? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is running some plugins, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Craftbukkit (*mod*)&#xD;&#xA; - WorldEdit (though this will be removed when the server is opened to the public);&#xD;&#xA; - Factions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is controlled via Multicraft ('Owned' licence for a maximum of 2 servers), with additional startup parameters to enable usage of all 16 CPU cores &amp; 64 bit Java:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    java -jar -d64 -XX:+UseConcMarkSweepGC -XX:+UseParNewGC -XX:+CMSIncrementalPacing -XX:ParallelGCThreads=16 -XX:+AggressiveOpts -Xms8G -Xmx27G minecraft-server.jar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the maximum amount of player slots the Minecraft server should be able to handle with the current hardware specifications of the VPS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.server4you.net/vps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="853" RevisionGUID="843a643d-8ef3-4dc7-b8e7-7f795dec2270" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:02:05.880" UserId="653" Text="How many players would this VPS be able to take?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="853" RevisionGUID="843a643d-8ef3-4dc7-b8e7-7f795dec2270" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:02:05.880" UserId="653" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="855" RevisionGUID="083f9f3e-332c-453e-ada1-1dfb9d012211" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:19:13.967" UserId="682" Text="I know there's already an answer on this question, but I feel that some more information could be helpful to generalize it a little.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In almost any case, with a proper, modern compiler, compilation speed will increase near linearly with the number of hardware threads on your system. In the case of Microsoft compilers, even running with 8GB will be plenty fine, as they are fairly stingy with memory allocation. However, on *nix, I have capped out even 16GB with parallel make and GCC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern CPU architectures are approaching peak performance, so even three year old top-of-their-class CPUs will still perform quite adequately compared to top-of-their-class modern CPUs. On the other hand, more RAM will always have an obvious and linear benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To address your specific issues, however:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the two CPUs you specified, the difference in benchmarks is fairly marginal, with the only real big difference being the power consumption, as the i7 is rated to use about 2/3 the power. RAM, on the other hand, can be very useful, especially in the case of Java where the JVM just loves to gobble the stuff up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give you an idea ([Source][1]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 is the same speed as the i5-6600k in single-threaded applications (or at least within statistical error).  &#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 is 10-15% faster in full multithreaded workloads than the i5-6600k.  &#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 has slightly better memory access times than the i5-6600k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I would just go i5 and 16GB, but if you must upgrade one or the other, go for the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/501/Intel_Core_i5_i5-6600K_vs_Intel_Core_i7_i7-6700.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="d9540e63-d0a9-4371-aed2-b3429be6f180" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:29:22.013" UserId="543" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I am building a PC specifically for programming. I mainly use Android Studio and Eclipse which are both quite heavy programs. This is why I would like to get a better CPU / more RAM. Which of the following would make a bigger difference in performance and which do you think is more worth it? Currently, to fit my budget I can upgrade either the CPU or RAM which is why I need some help on deciding which one would benefit me more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5 Quad Core i5 - 6600K (3.5 GHz) 6MB Cache **-- &gt;** Intel Core i7 Quad Core i7 - 6700 (3.4 GHz) 8MB Cache.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***OR***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (2 x 8) --&gt; 32GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (4 x 8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend upgrading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I want to add that I am going to be using a Samsung 850 EVO SSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3042" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="853" RevisionGUID="93f250c9-13fc-4e50-be58-a6c163429664" CreationDate="2015-10-27T16:36:59.617" UserId="653" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I started renting a VPS ([&quot;Platinum X8&quot; VPS from Server4You][1]), it has the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 16 Cores (Intel Xeon E5550);&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 18GB (30GB Burst);&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 800GB;&#xD;&#xA; - Bandwidth: 100Mbits/s (*though I did get 430MB/s with `speedtest-cli`, so might actually be a Gigabit connection*);&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Ubuntu 14.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using this VPS for a single Minecraft server, along with a Teamspeak 3 server &amp; webserver (with MySQL server). The website runs a forum and will eventually only get moderate traffic (&lt;100 connections at a time), &amp; I plan for the Teamspeak server to have double the amount of slots of the Minecraft server (*I plan to apply for a non-profit license when traffic picks up)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the VPS is on a monthly contract, I am able to cancel it and go elsewhere at any time; if the Minecraft server starts to outgrow the VPS, I can upgrade to a different VPS package (*elsewhere, since this is the top VPS package at the provider*) or even a dedicated server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, the Minecraft server has *125 slots*; can it go higher with the current hardware specifications? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is running some plugins, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Craftbukkit (*mod*);&#xD;&#xA; - WorldEdit (though this will be removed when the server is opened to the public);&#xD;&#xA; - Factions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is controlled via Multicraft ('Owned' licence for a maximum of 2 servers), with additional startup parameters to enable usage of all 16 CPU cores &amp; 64 bit Java:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    java -jar -d64 -XX:+UseConcMarkSweepGC -XX:+UseParNewGC -XX:+CMSIncrementalPacing -XX:ParallelGCThreads=16 -XX:+AggressiveOpts -Xms8G -Xmx27G minecraft-server.jar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the maximum amount of player slots the Minecraft server should be able to handle with the current hardware specifications of the VPS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.server4you.net/vps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="856" RevisionGUID="38d79c46-d00d-45ea-85c4-eedfe6670df8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:06:03.927" UserId="57" Text="You'll find that you are more limited by RAM than CPU - especially with 16 cores. A 100 Mbit line will not be a limiting factor either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, going by your RAM, you'll have roughly 16-17GB that you can dedicate to Minecraft after the OS takes the portion it needs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Experience has shown that you can get roughly 10 players per GB of RAM. In this case, you should be able to handle 160 players.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few things to consider with the above estimate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - World edit is a very RAM intensive plugin. You mentioned you were going to remove it. This is a good idea.&#xD;&#xA; - Setting a maximum map size may help as well. If players can't continuously expand the map, the server has less that it needs to generate as players explore. &#xD;&#xA; - Your hard drive is very likely a spinning disk, if you are generating a lot of chunks at a time (ie. players running out in a circle in all directions), this will be an area that causes some lag as the new chunks are written to disk.&#xD;&#xA; - If you allow automated, AFK farms, those can eat into CPU and RAM. Be aware of those and consider plugins that limit entities and mobs per chunk to prevent someone from sitting at a farm for hours or days.&#xD;&#xA; - Some plugins require a database (grief prevent ones, for example). Adding a database will take up some of your memory. However, this could very easily fall into the 2GB I allocated to your OS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="8bc6d863-c44a-4b37-bae5-037e05510653" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:08:33.320" UserId="704" Text="My Verizon wifi router (MI424WR Rev.I) which I have installed in the basement is not enough to cover all rooms upstairs and around the house. I'm looking for any suggestion for a wifi access point which I will install upstairs somewhere in the middle of my house and connect with VZ router via cat5. Price range below ($100). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure if that one is OK http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156232 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3047" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="8bc6d863-c44a-4b37-bae5-037e05510653" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:08:33.320" UserId="704" Text="Access point suggestion for mobile devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3048" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="8bc6d863-c44a-4b37-bae5-037e05510653" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:08:33.320" UserId="704" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3049" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="954d05e3-a495-4476-8603-73f60ddc83f3" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:11:46.870" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="858" RevisionGUID="65bfe553-115f-4c4e-aeba-3bade6f57311" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:17:50.957" UserId="60" Text="From what other people have told me, the [Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000](https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012) is one of the best keyboards that they have bought. This is a full sized keyboard, so it has a number pad and will not be as portable as a smaller keyboard. It does have media keys (play/pause, next, previous, and mute) as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few additional features that this keyboard offers. There is a Zoom Slider in the middle of the keyboard. It also has customizable buttons that you can program to do tasks &quot;like opening documents and replying to email messages&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am sure that I have missed something about this keyboard as I do not own one. I do know however that this is a great keyboard. I have worked at a few different places in the tech industry and this is a popular keyboard among my co-workers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rMjLh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="3d54ddcf-e369-4e93-96cf-22dd39fc0308" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:58:46.227" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links." Text="My Verizon wifi router (MI424WR Rev.I) which I have installed in the basement is not enough to cover all rooms upstairs and around the house. I'm looking for any suggestion for a wifi access point which I will install upstairs somewhere in the middle of my house and connect with VZ router via cat5. Price range below ($100). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if [this](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156232 ) one is ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3054" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="857" RevisionGUID="3d54ddcf-e369-4e93-96cf-22dd39fc0308" CreationDate="2015-10-27T17:58:46.227" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 8 edit id of 218" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3055" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="740801f1-a2fd-439f-8c23-b2f3bc25210b" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:06:50.993" UserId="-1" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[558],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;,&quot;BindingReason&quot;:{&quot;DuplicateApprovedByAsker&quot;:&quot;&quot;}}]}" />
  <row Id="3058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="453abaab-eeaa-4ad2-ba20-4f4998b996c0" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:39:31.667" UserId="710" Text="I want to implement this project...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![- List item][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the image I have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. One and unique analog signal&#xD;&#xA; 2. One Analog to Digital Converter&#xD;&#xA; 3. The Output is carry out to several Modules (Executing FIR and rewritting the its Output)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Collecting the New Signal (ModuleID, PositionValue, ValueSignal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Question are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Can I to use a PC to make the ADC conversion?** what Port is recommended to enable Output Digital Signal?&#xD;&#xA; - **Is better to use a VPS or Hardware Module like Arduino or Rasberry Pi?** Same question is derivated: How Catch the Digital Signal from PC (or another device)&#xD;&#xA; - I need to collect all information of modules (40 units) in One PC, **What Card or Port (One Multiplexing or 40 units) is recommended?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD: I'm worry about the performance (core, RAM) of VPS and the Cost for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/otboK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="453abaab-eeaa-4ad2-ba20-4f4998b996c0" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:39:31.667" UserId="710" Text="VPS (Virtual Private Server) vs (Rasberry PI / Arduino) Modules" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="453abaab-eeaa-4ad2-ba20-4f4998b996c0" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:39:31.667" UserId="710" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;hyperthreading&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;dedicated-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="442665a2-e3b9-4672-b978-5320efc9d7f0" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:45:50.123" UserId="1" Comment="[Edit removed during grace period]" Text="I want to implement this project...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![- List item][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the image I have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. One and unique analog signal&#xD;&#xA; 2. One Analog to Digital Converter&#xD;&#xA; 3. The Output is carry out to several Modules (Executing FIR and rewritting the its Output)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Collecting the New Signal (ModuleID, PositionValue, ValueSignal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Question are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Can I to use a PC to make the ADC conversion?** what Port is recommended to enable Output Digital Signal?&#xD;&#xA; - **Is better to use a VPS or Hardware Module like Arduino or Rasberry Pi?** Same question is derivated: How Catch the Digital Signal from PC (or another device)&#xD;&#xA; - I need to collect all information of modules (40 units) in One PC, **What Card or Port (One Multiplexing or 40 units) is recommended?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD: I'm worry about the performance (core, RAM) of VPS and the Cost for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/otboK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="74fc3753-39bc-4f4f-9863-a77ad3901aeb" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:48:05.610" UserId="696" Comment="added result" Text="I need a home camera system. It should be reliable and cost around $500, using it for 5 corner home surveillance and a few indoor cameras pointing at living room and down the bedroom hallway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Come with/has at least 4 cameras and 8ch DVR&#xD;&#xA; - PTZ (all three), bidirectional audio, indoor/outdoor, weather proof cameras&#xD;&#xA; - night vision&#xD;&#xA; - motion sensing&#xD;&#xA; - viewing distance of at least 50ft&#xD;&#xA; - be able to store captures for 30+ days (I live in a cul-de-sac, so not a lot of traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 720p&#xD;&#xA; - have an Android app&#xD;&#xA; - bonus: have an API&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a big list and I've done some shopping on amazon but I wanted to see what other people have found and amazon's selection is limited to a few vendors.  I realize that I can't get everything on the list. The systems I'm looking at are from Armcrest, Best Vision, and Funlux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also up for mixing and matching components, but I don't know if mixing and matching works due to compatibility and other things. I'm a software developer, comfortable building PCs, not sure if that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: &#xD;&#xA;A little more research indicates I can mix and match DVRs and Cameras. For universal compatibility the DVR needs to be TRIBID, otherwise they will work with either cctv or ip or analog, or the mix is limited for example on an 8ch only ch 7 and 8 can do ip, etc..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3063" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="c334e9cc-907e-4a2f-a133-b768aa4bc96c" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:53:34.793" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 286 characters in body" Text="I want to implement this project...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![project description image][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the image I have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. One and unique analog signal&#xD;&#xA; 2. One analog to digital converter&#xD;&#xA; 3. The output is carry out to several modules (executing FIR and rewriting the its output)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Collecting the new signal (ModuleID, PositionValue, ValueSignal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need to collect all information of modules (40 units) in one PC, **what Card or Port (one Multiplexing or 40 units) is recommended?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD: I'm worry about the performance (core, RAM) of VPS and the cost for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/otboK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3064" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="5e3ce87a-b02e-49bf-8e56-8afcb6e928f9" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:12:35.300" UserId="710" Comment="Rollback to [442665a2-e3b9-4672-b978-5320efc9d7f0]" Text="I want to implement this project...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![- List item][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the image I have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. One and unique analog signal&#xD;&#xA; 2. One Analog to Digital Converter&#xD;&#xA; 3. The Output is carry out to several Modules (Executing FIR and rewritting the its Output)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Collecting the New Signal (ModuleID, PositionValue, ValueSignal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Question are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Can I to use a PC to make the ADC conversion?** what Port is recommended to enable Output Digital Signal?&#xD;&#xA; - **Is better to use a VPS or Hardware Module like Arduino or Rasberry Pi?** Same question is derivated: How Catch the Digital Signal from PC (or another device)&#xD;&#xA; - I need to collect all information of modules (40 units) in One PC, **What Card or Port (One Multiplexing or 40 units) is recommended?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD: I'm worry about the performance (core, RAM) of VPS and the Cost for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/otboK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="860" RevisionGUID="5f5a83fb-89d5-49ce-9047-d95dd2255688" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:13:13.500" UserId="61" Text="If you are willing to try a new keyboard layout [Truly Ergonomic][1] makes a mechanical keyboard that is structured oddly. It is suppose to be better than the standard keyboards and they have different key switch options.&#xD;&#xA;[![Ergonomic Layout][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are thinking about a mechanical keyboard please remember your coworkers and that typing can be quite loud with some switches. Maybe ask them first if they are ok with a noisy keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Switch types to consider if you are considering a mechanical keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SOFT TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches are quiet and provide a gentle tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers, allowing you to use minimal force.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CLICK TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches provide a light‑click‑sound feedback and a&#xD;&#xA;gentle tactile feedback that helps you feel and hear when each key registers.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**FIRM TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches are quiet and provide a firm tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers. If you have used Soft Tactile mechanical switches and find them too soft, these switches would be best.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[(ref)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SdM0E.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/store/mechanical-keyswitches--cherry-mx-brown-red-blue-black-clear--truly-ergonomic-mechanical-keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3066" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="860" RevisionGUID="33e15908-8168-4da9-969d-ef3241450ac5" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:19:11.390" UserId="61" Comment="added 665 characters in body" Text="If you are willing to try a new keyboard layout [Truly Ergonomic][1] makes a mechanical keyboard that is structured oddly. It is suppose to be better for tyoy than the standard keyboards (during long term use) and they have different key switch options.&#xD;&#xA;[![Ergonomic Layout][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Switch (key) types:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SOFT TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches are quiet and provide a gentle tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers, allowing you to use minimal force.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CLICK TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches provide a light‑click‑sound feedback and a&#xD;&#xA;gentle tactile feedback that helps you feel and hear when each key registers.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**FIRM TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*These switches are quiet and provide a firm tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers. If you have used Soft Tactile mechanical switches and find them too soft, these switches would be best.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MEMBRANE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*On membrane keyboards, the key passes through a plastic layer with electrical contacts and then through a hole to a second layer that interrupts a circuit to register the stroke. Pressing through these layers makes typing on a membrane feel like tapping your fingers on old, stale Jell-O.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(This is standard feel and the quote is a bit exaggerated but does explain it well. These keys are soft and have not tactical feedback.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[(ref for mechanical keys)][3]&#xD;&#xA;[(ref for membrane keys)][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: There lots of different types I have listed some of the common types. Also if you are thinking about a mechanical keyboard please remember your coworkers and that typing can be quite loud with some switches (notably the click ones). Maybe ask them first if they are ok with a noisy keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SdM0E.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/store/mechanical-keyswitches--cherry-mx-brown-red-blue-black-clear--truly-ergonomic-mechanical-keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomsguide.com/us/why-you-want-mechanical-keyboard,news-19706.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="860" RevisionGUID="8b1725d1-5c33-4f51-a21b-682612d45353" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:24:53.727" UserId="61" Comment="added 665 characters in body" Text="If you are willing to try a new keyboard layout [Truly Ergonomic][1] makes a mechanical keyboard that is structured oddly. It is suppose to be better for you than the standard keyboards (during long term use) and they have different key switch options. It should also be noted that this keyboard does not have a keypad, if you find yourself using the keypad a lot then it may not be a good choice. (Personally I did away with my keypad years ago, never used it in my development work and wasted desktop space).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Ergonomic Layout][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Switch (key) types:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SOFT TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These switches are quiet and provide a gentle tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers, allowing you to use minimal force.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CLICK TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These switches provide a light‑click‑sound feedback and a&#xD;&#xA;gentle tactile feedback that helps you feel and hear when each key registers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**FIRM TACTILE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These switches are quiet and provide a firm tactile feedback&#xD;&#xA;that helps you feel when each key registers. If you have used Soft Tactile mechanical switches and find them too soft, these switches would be best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MEMBRANE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; On membrane keyboards, the key passes through a plastic layer with electrical contacts and then through a hole to a second layer that interrupts a circuit to register the stroke. Pressing through these layers makes typing on a membrane feel like tapping your fingers on old, stale Jell-O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Membrane is standard keyboard feel and the quote is a bit exaggerated but does explain it well. These keys are soft and have not tactical feedback.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Mechanical][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Membrane][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: There lots of different types I have listed some of the common types. Also if you are thinking about a mechanical keyboard please remember your coworkers and that typing can be quite loud with some switches (notably the click ones). Maybe ask them first if they are ok with a noisy keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SdM0E.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.trulyergonomic.com/store/mechanical-keyswitches--cherry-mx-brown-red-blue-black-clear--truly-ergonomic-mechanical-keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomsguide.com/us/why-you-want-mechanical-keyboard,news-19706.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3068" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="72c052b1-5910-46bc-859a-1bee8a7d52f2" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:31:31.137" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [c334e9cc-907e-4a2f-a133-b768aa4bc96c]" Text="I want to implement this project...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![project description image][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the image I have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. One and unique analog signal&#xD;&#xA; 2. One analog to digital converter&#xD;&#xA; 3. The output is carry out to several modules (executing FIR and rewriting the its output)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Collecting the new signal (ModuleID, PositionValue, ValueSignal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need to collect all information of modules (40 units) in one PC, **what Card or Port (one Multiplexing or 40 units) is recommended?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD: I'm worry about the performance (core, RAM) of VPS and the cost for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/otboK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3073" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="985f2d06-e106-4b62-ba6c-ae1170346f51" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:41:30.053" UserId="61" Comment="Added Ergonomics tag" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3074" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="985f2d06-e106-4b62-ba6c-ae1170346f51" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:41:30.053" Comment="Proposed by 61 approved by 155 edit id of 219" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3075" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="2b992da0-3071-4ac6-99c6-5f888fd969e2" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:46:41.457" UserId="155" Comment="removed tags; condensed title" Text="VPS vs Raspberry Pi and Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3076" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="859" RevisionGUID="2b992da0-3071-4ac6-99c6-5f888fd969e2" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:46:41.457" UserId="155" Comment="removed tags; condensed title" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;vps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="862" RevisionGUID="76400de0-721b-4b3a-ad1d-7765bac0ed5f" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:53:36.080" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="863" RevisionGUID="70a25c58-b5e2-4a46-a54b-685162b42ec5" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:53:36.080" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware that will run a virtual private server. Do not use this tag to ask specifically about VPS operation since they are considered software and are off-topic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3079" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="864" RevisionGUID="84e23952-abda-4dea-83e5-c3adf29a1cb8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:55:48.167" UserId="476" Text="GPU is usually faster, but I cannot find GPU benchmarks for Handbrake, so I'll recommend a CPU. Keep in mind that using the CPU I recommend, you need a new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend an AMD FX-8320E. The 8320 because it's practically AMD's top of the line, and the 'E' because that basically means it's better binned, and they are both the same price at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other popular AMD CPUs such as the 8350, 8370, 9370, and 9590 are basically overclocked versions of this, but I can't bother to provide a link, so you'll have to search it up or not believe me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend AMD, also, because of better price/performance ratio. As you can see in this [anandtech benchmark][1], the overclocked FX-8320E ($125) is on par with the non-overclocked i5 4690 ($200). Overclocking Intel CPUs would probably surpass performance, but not by anything worth $200, which is already at your budget, so you wouldn't be able to buy a new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that some people are going to point out that it is hard to upgrade an FX-8320E to anything, due to an outdated chipset, but I don't think that 'dark fang' is going to be upgrading any time in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1198?vs=1403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="864" RevisionGUID="fe45ffae-c62e-48b7-b78d-e55524d5341f" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:00:55.927" UserId="476" Comment="added 811 characters in body" Text="GPU is usually faster, but I cannot find GPU benchmarks for Handbrake, so I'll recommend a CPU. Keep in mind that using the CPU I recommend, you need a new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend an AMD FX-8320E. The 8320 because it's practically AMD's top of the line, and the 'E' because that basically means it's better binned, and they are both the same price at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other popular AMD CPUs such as the 8350, 8370, 9370, and 9590 are basically overclocked versions of this, but I can't bother to provide a link, so you'll have to search it up or not believe me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend AMD, also, because of better price/performance ratio. As you can see in this [anandtech benchmark][1], the overclocked FX-8320E ($125) is on par with the non-overclocked i5 4690 ($200). Overclocking Intel CPUs would probably surpass performance, but not by anything worth $200, which is already at your budget, so you wouldn't be able to buy a new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that some people are going to point out that it is hard to upgrade an FX-8320E to anything, due to an outdated chipset, but I don't think that 'dark fang' is going to be upgrading any time in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, when using an AMD CPU, you are going to have the disadvantage of not having a built it GPU. You can either get a motherboard with on-board video, or a cheap dedicated GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend a motherboard with a built-in GPU, which I know everyone thinks is terrible, but looked at his current iGPU. A nice, overclocking motherboard such as [this][2], would be ideal for getting the most performance out of your CPU as well as getting an integrated GPU, but a more budget-friendly option could be [this][3] instead. I know option #2 isn't the greatest, but it is cheap. If anyone else has a motherboard suggestion, comment and I'll edit into my answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1198?vs=1403&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-ga990fxaud3r5&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-ga78lmtusb3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3081" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="804" RevisionGUID="8d31b20d-5bb5-411d-98bb-279f2c8af42c" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:16:37.487" UserId="155" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that automatically supply and/or regulate electrical power for other devices. Use the [power-control] tag for devices that involve manually controlling electrical power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="865" RevisionGUID="62a99b52-3b0a-4dbb-b5c7-03da85c90bff" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:20:37.860" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="866" RevisionGUID="5b90f916-89c2-4677-a807-3b803ac6a68e" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:20:37.860" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that automatically supply and/or regulate electrical power for other devices. Do not use this tag for general questions about a device's power features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="804" RevisionGUID="b81bbf65-9075-4fe2-a2d5-e43dd63338d4" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:22:20.777" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 56 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning the power usage or requirements of a device. Do not use this tag for questions about supplying or controlling power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3085" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6" RevisionGUID="9c6c43dc-0955-480d-82d4-0d2a1a6badff" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:23:13.077" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="867" RevisionGUID="424facb4-a4f0-4ce1-b211-5f76956e2837" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:27:10.350" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="868" RevisionGUID="969b973d-b8cf-472d-831a-942c28d58a5d" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:27:10.350" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that allow manual control of the power features of another device. Do not use this tag for questions about supplying power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6" RevisionGUID="44cffd96-d0e0-4516-a9ce-b926bd6c8d74" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:42:33.117" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I have a remote server (running far, far away), which has a very important USB device plugged in (call T). Sometimes this device simply dies. If this happens, a simple plug out - plug in solves the problem on the spot. But to do that, somebody must be there physically, and do the plug out - plugin back with his own hands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I would like to automate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to have another (USB or not) device, which can control the power line of another device, so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. it stays between T and my server&#xD;&#xA;2. can control the _power_ of another USB device&#xD;&#xA;3. from the server I can control it remotely (ideal would be a char device, but any other solution is also acceptable)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3090" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="140" RevisionGUID="c0f1541b-8901-4070-8d7c-35598e30f2df" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:09:52.497" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag" Text="&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="86" RevisionGUID="c1cf5336-6daf-4bd1-8358-5fce1081cecc" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:11:33.790" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;power-converter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="870" RevisionGUID="7d140c0d-430b-46bc-9bc4-abcd386f7116" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:12:47.333" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3093" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="871" RevisionGUID="76033f16-568c-4474-9d78-b9e43577efcf" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:12:47.333" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices used to convert an electrical power flow from one specification to another." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3094" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="8a710a5e-0bc1-46a8-a528-b94219d10031" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:23:58.220" UserId="543" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I am building a PC specifically for programming. I mainly use Android Studio and Eclipse which are both quite heavy programs. This is why I would like to get a better CPU / more RAM. Which of the following would make a bigger difference in performance and which do you think is more worth it? Currently, to fit my budget I can upgrade either the CPU or RAM which is why I need some help on deciding which one would benefit me more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5 Quad Core i5 - 6600K (3.5 GHz) 6MB Cache **-- &gt;** Intel Core i7 Quad Core i7 - 6700 (3.4 GHz) 8MB Cache.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***OR***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (2 x 8) --&gt; 32GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2666 MHz (4 x 8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend upgrading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I want to add that I am going to be using a Samsung 850 EVO SSD.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3095" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="8a710a5e-0bc1-46a8-a528-b94219d10031" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:23:58.220" UserId="543" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3101" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="d2a67800-5e0b-4d85-bab1-273e699d508a" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:39:15.330" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3104" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="d0503e24-c74e-4560-81ad-a7a590b3fde8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:59:52.737" UserId="715" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. It's a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3100 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that the chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3105" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="d0503e24-c74e-4560-81ad-a7a590b3fde8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:59:52.737" UserId="715" Text="What netbook runs GNU/Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3106" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="d0503e24-c74e-4560-81ad-a7a590b3fde8" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:59:52.737" UserId="715" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="853" RevisionGUID="49cf371a-e642-4e6f-8f33-9a8a2b259169" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:22:26.383" UserId="8" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I started renting a VPS ([&quot;Platinum X8&quot; VPS from Server4You][1]), it has the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 16 Cores (Intel Xeon E5550);&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 18GB (30GB Burst);&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 800GB;&#xD;&#xA; - Bandwidth: 100Mbits/s (*though I did get 430MB/s with `speedtest-cli`, so might actually be a Gigabit connection*);&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Ubuntu 14.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using this VPS for a single Minecraft server (i.e. not a network of servers), along with a Teamspeak 3 server &amp; webserver (with MySQL server). The website runs a forum and will eventually only get moderate traffic (&lt;100 connections at a time), &amp; I plan for the Teamspeak server to have double the amount of slots of the Minecraft server (*I plan to apply for a non-profit license when traffic picks up)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the VPS is on a monthly contract, I am able to cancel it and go elsewhere at any time; if the Minecraft server starts to outgrow the VPS, I can upgrade to a different VPS package (*elsewhere, since this is the top VPS package at the provider*) or even a dedicated server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, the Minecraft server has *125 slots*; can it go higher with the current hardware specifications? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is running some plugins, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Craftbukkit (*mod*);&#xD;&#xA; - WorldEdit (though this will be removed when the server is opened to the public);&#xD;&#xA; - Factions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Minecraft server is controlled via Multicraft ('Owned' licence for a maximum of 2 servers), with additional startup parameters to enable usage of all 16 CPU cores &amp; 64 bit Java:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    java -jar -d64 -XX:+UseConcMarkSweepGC -XX:+UseParNewGC -XX:+CMSIncrementalPacing -XX:ParallelGCThreads=16 -XX:+AggressiveOpts -Xms8G -Xmx27G minecraft-server.jar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the maximum amount of player slots the Minecraft server should be able to handle with the current hardware specifications of the VPS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.server4you.net/vps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3108" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="d01a56f3-310b-4422-8cc4-a813ec5a393e" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:23:21.433" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3109" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="844" RevisionGUID="2eff6ec8-a93a-4d25-9d7e-e5fc1219f30f" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:25:34.580" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3110" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="843" RevisionGUID="c8c596ef-836d-4a5c-b406-6b9f97d5e8fd" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:26:28.530" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="874" RevisionGUID="4e3ca951-1e38-49c0-b59d-fc8ac16a79ca" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:28:12.837" UserId="719" Text="We had the same problem and found a somewhat creative solution by reactivating our old android-phones. We installed &quot;TeamSpeak&quot; on each of them and placed them in the childrens rooms. They connect via wlan to an old pc where TeamSpeak-Server runs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife and I also have TeamSpeak-clients on our cells - so wherever we are in the house - we'll can always hear them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I'm sitting at the computer I always have a TeamSpeak-Window at the 2nd monitor, so I can even see from where the noise is coming from." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3112" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="094b6fd7-e8a4-4234-a98b-884342843b90" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:28:40.820" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="b403afba-b6ff-4ef5-a027-a4a46ada63ad" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:31:18.570" UserId="8" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="I know this is a bit of a boring question, but I need to ask it. What keyboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be &lt; $25. Preferable &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA; - Must connect through USB&#xD;&#xA; - Must last a long time (more than 2 years)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be full size. (Includes all normal keys, &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;kbd&gt;F12&lt;/kbd&gt;, and a number pad)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Should have arrow keys that are the same size (for gaming), so that the &lt;kbd&gt;↑&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;↓&lt;/kbd&gt; arrow keys are not smaller than the &lt;kbd&gt;←&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;→&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - A backlight (multi-colored?)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless (If wireless, it should last more than 6 months on battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth connection&#xD;&#xA; - If it has a backlight, it must be visible without the backlight being on.&#xD;&#xA; - 3 or greater key rollover&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to clarify, this keyboard will not be primarily for gaming. I would just like it to be capable of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3114" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="56f4d1a4-284f-4d36-be11-fd245eca6ada" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:34:37.773" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [a022b0a2-c110-4edb-9f27-e29b663512e5]" Text="I recently bought an [15&quot; MacBook Pro w/ Retina](http://www.apple.com/us-hed/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro) (with student discount and no sales tax) for $2300. Considering I got a pair of Beats headphones too which I plan on selling, I figure my total cost was $2200 for this machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a Windows-based laptop which is comparable to this? The easy-to-measure things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; Retina-quality screen (better than 1900x1200 resolution)&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SSD (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated graphics card that is comparable/better&#xD;&#xA; - Comparable battery life (rMBP estimate is 9 hours with normal use)&#xD;&#xA; - Roughly same weight or less (4.5 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also wanting the following, less easy to measure things (or less important things):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Similar build quality, the aluminum case is nice (I do not like plastic cases generally)&#xD;&#xA; - Trackpad quality that is comparable&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the pricepoint is less than $2200 for educational pricing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="875" RevisionGUID="2881d3a3-7141-4927-af40-9360941e4fcb" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:43:13.937" UserId="719" Text="My employer recently upgraded the server room and threw a lot of hardware away. I noticed the Cisco Wave 474 devices which look just like standard PC's. They've got a nice amount of RAM and a Core Duo inside which could still make them a nice Internet-Surf-PC for home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since my employer did only remove the harddisk I took one home and wonder if I could convert it to a standard PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I buy a new harddisk: Does anyone know those devices? Can I have success with my plan or are Ciscos modifications too big to get them working?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3116" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="875" RevisionGUID="2881d3a3-7141-4927-af40-9360941e4fcb" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:43:13.937" UserId="719" Text="Using Cisco Wave 474 as normal PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="875" RevisionGUID="2881d3a3-7141-4927-af40-9360941e4fcb" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:43:13.937" UserId="719" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;legacy&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="322" RevisionGUID="4fea34d7-bab8-4835-aaa9-f72dfac44ab9" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:43:44.730" UserId="155" Comment="added 169 characters in body" Text="For questions about uninterruptable power supplies that are used to retain the electrical power flow to connected devices in the event of a loss of power at the source. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="875" RevisionGUID="4616e474-0a94-4573-8bfa-1463a5a44270" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:49:15.160" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;legacy&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="779" RevisionGUID="6f0f5e59-696d-4a86-810e-876b2726543b" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:58:27.630" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning a storage device's life span, reliability, or other property. Do not use this tag by itself for questions about choosing storage hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3121" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="fcac7fe3-61a1-4e89-add9-62262fb3da66" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:00:10.523" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3122" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="20" RevisionGUID="e1ae10b3-68d6-4019-8a60-b3b6f72c4813" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:02:23.110" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="f1d6fa1a-b0ee-4355-ac53-14eabb04fd78" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:23:12.450" UserId="715" Comment="make the screen size explicit per request in comment; it was implicit in the ASUS examples I gave" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen with an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. It's a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that the chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3124" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="f1d6fa1a-b0ee-4355-ac53-14eabb04fd78" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:23:12.450" UserId="715" Comment="make the screen size explicit per request in comment; it was implicit in the ASUS examples I gave" Text="W hat netbook runs GNU/Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3125" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="af40af55-7d2a-45a9-990d-f7c599618323" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:30:12.453" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="What netbook runs GNU/Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="28" RevisionGUID="e7274464-befc-4065-818b-6a14ff82ffe7" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:47:24.507" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="443" RevisionGUID="2099158c-a098-487a-b278-5406a1ee6fcc" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:48:43.860" UserId="155" Comment="edited body" Text="PoE stands for power over Ethernet. For questions about hardware that receives and sends information and power through an Ethernet cable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="876" RevisionGUID="d1631f0d-4d11-474e-9b71-b03c2d8ad510" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:04:01.057" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="877" RevisionGUID="989b0e6b-5510-43b7-a93e-3ef9f2d47ba3" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:04:01.057" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that are used to track a specific object and store related data." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="851" RevisionGUID="fc7d92b1-6563-45d0-a2ed-db865852ff4d" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:13:35.903" UserId="696" Comment="added final conclusion" Text="I need a home camera system. It should be reliable and cost around $500, using it for 5 corner home surveillance and a few indoor cameras pointing at living room and down the bedroom hallway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Come with/has at least 4 cameras and 8ch DVR&#xD;&#xA; - PTZ (all three), bidirectional audio, indoor/outdoor, weather proof cameras&#xD;&#xA; - night vision&#xD;&#xA; - motion sensing&#xD;&#xA; - viewing distance of at least 50ft&#xD;&#xA; - be able to store captures for 30+ days (I live in a cul-de-sac, so not a lot of traffic)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 720p&#xD;&#xA; - have an Android app&#xD;&#xA; - bonus: have an API&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a big list and I've done some shopping on amazon but I wanted to see what other people have found and amazon's selection is limited to a few vendors.  I realize that I can't get everything on the list. The systems I'm looking at are from Armcrest, Best Vision, and Funlux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also up for mixing and matching components, but I don't know if mixing and matching works due to compatibility and other things. I'm a software developer, comfortable building PCs, not sure if that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: &#xD;&#xA;A little more research indicates I can mix and match DVRs and Cameras. For universal compatibility the DVR needs to be TRIBID, otherwise they will work with either cctv or ip or analog, or the mix is limited for example on an 8ch only ch 7 and 8 can do ip, etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT2: It seems a surveillance kit could be cheaper than buying a la cart. The total cost would depend on the amount and quality of cable you buy. The consensus seems to be that the cables that come with the kits are poor in quality, to say the least. IMO, measure out the amount of cable needed, get a bit more in case of errors, and then see how much the total cost would be. If the cost of buying a la cart is a bit more, then pay the little extra for a lot more reliability.  Otherwise get the kit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="878" RevisionGUID="46e613ec-fbab-437d-a92e-4603df0df9e7" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:15:26.007" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="879" RevisionGUID="b3fdd1e4-db44-4c85-aa68-290ede544dd3" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:15:26.007" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware that will be used specifically for backing up data. Do not use this tag for general questions about data storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="880" RevisionGUID="332d310f-aa9a-4758-adf9-7caf100316de" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:45:30.460" UserId="724" Text="Is it possible to get DDR3 memory that's not affected by rowhammer? ECC is reportedly not a full fix and not viable since the boards I'm looking at don't support ECC anyway. I've seen claims that, because the issue is density, smaller modules (possibly 512MB, 1GB, or 2GB) are less likely to be affected, but no actual guidelines for reliably purchasing rowhammer-immune ram. For example this paper suggests that at least some brands are not affected in small sizes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://users.ece.cmu.edu/~yoonguk/papers/kim-isca14.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have actual reliable information for buyers?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="880" RevisionGUID="332d310f-aa9a-4758-adf9-7caf100316de" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:45:30.460" UserId="724" Text="Avoiding rowhammer when buying ddr3 ram" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="880" RevisionGUID="332d310f-aa9a-4758-adf9-7caf100316de" CreationDate="2015-10-28T00:45:30.460" UserId="724" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="881" RevisionGUID="cbed1c35-6188-4e98-b0e3-e18f694e5634" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:19:44.043" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3137" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="882" RevisionGUID="d8f2ca02-03df-4ef9-8141-4f63df805dd1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:19:44.043" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that store power to later supply another device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="880" RevisionGUID="c36103eb-be89-4ef5-90fc-c4b0b5c6b3c5" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:32:23.460" UserId="155" Comment="fixed title; added reference link" Text="Is it possible to get DDR3 memory that's not affected by [rowhammer][1]? ECC is reportedly not a full fix and not viable since the boards I'm looking at don't support ECC anyway. I've seen claims that, because the issue is density, smaller modules (possibly 512MB, 1GB, or 2GB) are less likely to be affected, but no actual guidelines for reliably purchasing rowhammer-immune ram. For example this paper suggests that at least some brands are not affected in small sizes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://users.ece.cmu.edu/~yoonguk/papers/kim-isca14.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have actual reliable information for buyers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Row_hammer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="880" RevisionGUID="c36103eb-be89-4ef5-90fc-c4b0b5c6b3c5" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:32:23.460" UserId="155" Comment="fixed title; added reference link" Text="Avoiding rowhammer when buying DDR3 RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="808" RevisionGUID="5161822a-ed18-4db2-b830-d01b7f99332c" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:48:53.063" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 35 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning the wired or wireless communication between computing platforms." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="883" RevisionGUID="9627b8bf-ed27-4622-8b41-79ab8d834799" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:58:23.440" UserId="65" Text="I've been looking for an inexpensive device to get my car to play songs from my phone.  I've got a wired cassette adapter, but the wires inevitably break (I have a teen that uses it too).  I found this [bluetooth cassette adapter](http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Radioshack-Bluetooth-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B00HKN4MOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1445996080&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=bluetooth+cassette+adapter), but it's $60 and only lasts 8 hours per charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter that lasts for at least 15 hours of playback for less than $40, perhaps one that uses the cassette spindle drive to augment (or replace) the battery altogether?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="883" RevisionGUID="9627b8bf-ed27-4622-8b41-79ab8d834799" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:58:23.440" UserId="65" Text="Bluetooth Cassette Adapter with Long Battery Life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3143" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="883" RevisionGUID="9627b8bf-ed27-4622-8b41-79ab8d834799" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:58:23.440" UserId="65" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="885" RevisionGUID="c05aeafe-c98e-4ffb-9a10-865f0424096f" CreationDate="2015-10-28T06:02:34.560" UserId="203" Text="I'll recommend a Gigabyte BRIX, specifically [the model with the i5 4570R][1], a 2.7-3.2 GHz Quad core i5. The iGP is a Iris Pro 5200, with the 128 MB of L4 cache&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM, I'd recommend [a 1866 MT/s 2x8 GB kit][2], just for a bit of extra speed. It's about $20 more than a 1600 MT/s kit though, so if you want to save a bit of money, it shouldn't matter too much. Price is $94 at amazon, or $81 at newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The BRIX takes a 2.5&quot; SATA III HDD, one with [1 TB capacity would set you back about $73][3]. There's also a mSATA slot, which allows you to add SSD, [a mid range 250 GB version costs about $108][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll also need the OS, though I'm presuming you plan on using Linux?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total price is slightly less than $700 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, what features does this thing have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The processor is a desktop part, with a 65 W TDP, meaning it's likely to turbo more than its power limited mobile counterparts. It also has 4 cores, and Iris Pro graphics, making the GPU quite responsive too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer has 4 USB 3.0 ports, 1 mini DisplayPort and 1 HDMI port for a total of 2 external monitor ports. There's Gigabit ethernet, a headphone port, 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac Wifi and Bluetooth 4.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Barebone-i5-4570R-Graphic-GB-BXi5-4570R/dp/B00HYEU0C8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446009890&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f31866c11d16grsl&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/hitachi-internal-hard-drive-0s03563&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mzm5e250bw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="520de907-a210-4224-8570-0f8a419c73dc" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:44:29.807" UserId="731" Text="I am working on a one-off home automation project for personal use. The software is not in question (i.e., I can write the software to drive pretty much any kind of hardware out there).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will have 2 or 3 physically separate, networked (via Wi-Fi) nodes, installed in **fixed locations** in my house. Each will access a shared server (already exists) via Wi-Fi, and accept input from the user via button/touch input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of interface, I could get by with a 16x2 character backlit mono LCD screen plus a couple of momentary contact buttons. A small touch screen + web browser would work just as well. I also need some kind of sound output. A simple buzzer/beeper would suffice, but an actual computer audio interface and small speaker would be acceptable as well. Among the options in this paragraph, I don't really have a preference, so it will come down to cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size footprint isn't terribly important, but think wall-mounted panel, not computer workstation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered things like the Raspberry Pi + 16x2 LCD + Wi-Fi + buttons, which would run me about $100 for my minimum requirements. I'm hoping to find something cheaper than that, but I won't put a number on it that might be unrealistic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating system is a don't care, as long as it supports the required hardware. I can program a µc if need be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've also considered touch screen devices such as used iPod Touches. Jiggering a web interface for my software is already planned. In general, I don't mind buying used hardware if it's likely to be reliable and give me at least a few years' life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I **will** put the software on my mobile phone as well (as well as my PC), but I still need the fixed installations as I do not usually carry my mobile phone around with me when I'm in the house." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3158" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="520de907-a210-4224-8570-0f8a419c73dc" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:44:29.807" UserId="731" Text="Cheap Wi-Fi + small mono display + a couple of buttons" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="520de907-a210-4224-8570-0f8a419c73dc" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:44:29.807" UserId="731" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="d3de9751-dae9-49de-9dbb-05045cb9d2a6" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:57:19.423" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;automation&gt;&lt;all-in-one&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="888" RevisionGUID="7329fe3b-8dab-411e-91ca-292be7e5b854" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:02:19.940" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="889" RevisionGUID="2fc2511e-5b2f-4170-8631-b3de5fb9a6b1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:02:19.940" UserId="155" Text="For questions about computing systems that involve all essential components (e.g., CPU, display, and input method) being housed together. Do not use this tag for questions about the Raspberry Pi or similar systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="405" RevisionGUID="e09a2c43-fbe9-4932-83b8-23d2dbb54464" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:07:53.120" UserId="155" Comment="added 138 characters in body" Text="The Raspberry Pi is a $35 single-board DIY computer for hobbyists. It was originally meant to be used to teach children how to program on a cheap and simple to use platform. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tag should only be used when asking about Raspberry Pi add-ons. Do _not_ use this tag if your question simply has the possibility of eliciting recommendations for the Raspberry Pi. Any other questions should be asked on the Raspberry Pi Stack Exchange website." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3164" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="406" RevisionGUID="4ab127b6-2973-4c0c-a79a-d38713a06807" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:07:53.120" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="For questions about the do-it-yourself single-board PC. This tag should only be used when asking about add-ons for the Raspberry Pi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="736" RevisionGUID="b6ffce6f-d689-4d05-9d8f-987a7e37f2fb" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:10:08.457" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;all-in-one&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="033018fe-8c26-4a4a-88a4-f19df7ac4a82" CreationDate="2015-10-28T10:48:57.667" UserId="732" Text="I am planning in updating my PC by December, but I have some doubts. This is what I have now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: Asus H77-Pro4-M (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphic Card: Nvidia GTX 550 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB (don't know speed at this moment)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Im am planning to change, mainly, CPU and graphic card...but might change only the graphic card, and spend more money on it, to get a real monster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I change CPU and graphic card, I have thought upgrading to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gygabyte GeForce GTX 960 Gaming G1 Windforce 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I change only Graphic card, I wold upgrade to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gygabyte GeForce GTX 970 Gaming G1 Windforce OC 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I doing right? Will I get some bottlenecks if I don't upgrade the CPU? What should you do?  Do you know any components similar, and cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="033018fe-8c26-4a4a-88a4-f19df7ac4a82" CreationDate="2015-10-28T10:48:57.667" UserId="732" Text="Help updating PC for gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="033018fe-8c26-4a4a-88a4-f19df7ac4a82" CreationDate="2015-10-28T10:48:57.667" UserId="732" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="46056de2-1f45-4e6a-8636-72241641e706" CreationDate="2015-10-28T11:54:13.683" UserId="732" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am planning in updating my PC by December, but I have some doubts. This is what I have now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: Asus H77-Pro4-M (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 3.30GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphic Card: Nvidia GTX 550 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB (don't know speed at this moment)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Im am planning to change, mainly, CPU and graphic card...but might change only the graphic card, and spend more money on it, to get a real monster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I change CPU and graphic card, I have thought upgrading to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gygabyte GeForce GTX 960 Gaming G1 Windforce 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I change only Graphic card, I wold upgrade to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gygabyte GeForce GTX 970 Gaming G1 Windforce OC 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I doing right? Will I get some bottlenecks if I don't upgrade the CPU? What should you do?  Do you know any components similar, and cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="891" RevisionGUID="6a02ef01-42e9-49b5-9e57-fc0cb0c6c829" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:14:02.113" UserId="653" Text="The i3-2120 is likely to be a bottleneck to the system if you were to only upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 970. [The i3-2120][1] is only a *dual-core CPU (with 4 threads)*, while the [i5-3470 is quad-core][2]; many modern games benefit from multiple CPU cores (*and some even require a four-core CPU, such as [Fallout 4][3]*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends on what games you plan on playing with your upgrade, for example Grand Theft Auto V will benefit from the i5-3470's performance, far more than a game focusing on graphical elements will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For Star Citizen I, [its system requirements][4] seems to focus on the CPU rather than the GPU, therefore you'd definitely be better-off with the i5-3470 &amp; the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Your motherboard][5] has three PCI-E slots, so you might benefit in using both the 960 &amp; 550Ti, with the 550Ti dedicated to PhysX. The amount of RAM you have is fine for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/53426/Intel-Core-i3-2120-Processor-3M-Cache-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/68316/Intel-Core-i5-3470-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.pcgamer.com/fallout-4-system-requirements-released/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5490&amp;game=Star%20Citizen&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H77%20Pro4-M/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="891" RevisionGUID="4a15cebb-ca25-4b83-b264-99ae92e7b46e" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:19:44.337" UserId="653" Comment="added 587 characters in body" Text="The i3-2120 is likely to be a bottleneck to the system if you were to only upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 970. [The i3-2120][1] is only a *dual-core CPU (with 4 threads)*, while the [i5-3470 is quad-core][2]; many modern games benefit from multiple CPU cores (*and some even require a four-core CPU, such as [Fallout 4][3]*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-3470 is **much more efficient** and newer than the i3-2120 (with a newer manufacturing process).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends on what games you plan on playing with your upgrade, for example Grand Theft Auto V will benefit from the i5-3470's performance, far more than a game focusing on graphical elements will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For Star Citizen I, [its system requirements][4] seems to focus on the CPU rather than the GPU, therefore you'd definitely be better-off with the i5-3470 &amp; the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Your motherboard][5] has three PCI-E slots, so you might benefit in using both the 960 &amp; 550Ti, with the 550Ti dedicated to PhysX. The amount of RAM you have is fine for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do not mind purchasing used parts, I'd recommend you get a 290X (*eBay has tons of them*) as you get more graphical power for less (in the UK, used 290X GPUs sell for around £160 while new 970s sell for around £200, making a used 290X £40 cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Ensure your power-supply is able to power a 290X*- you should have at least a [550W PSU][6], with the recommended wattage being 600W. Bear in mind that if you do go down this route you won't be able to support the 290X with your current 550Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also be able to get the i5-3470 (or an even better CPU) used as well, along with the 290X. It really depends how much you're willing to spend on upgrading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/53426/Intel-Core-i3-2120-Processor-3M-Cache-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/68316/Intel-Core-i5-3470-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.pcgamer.com/fallout-4-system-requirements-released/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5490&amp;game=Star%20Citizen&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H77%20Pro4-M/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/290x-with-650w-psu.197003/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3175" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="68917a4a-1217-4136-bbb7-418098ac450b" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:42:55.567" UserId="735" Text="I have a colleague who needs an additional monitor during presentations in the meeting room (the main beamer screen is too far/hard to see).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a video from Microsoft I saw they used monitors that were somewhat 'laying' on the table. Does anyone know what type of monitor this is?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2Fw6-2fCWU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="68917a4a-1217-4136-bbb7-418098ac450b" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:42:55.567" UserId="735" Text="I am looking for a pc monitor for someone with visual impairment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="68917a4a-1217-4136-bbb7-418098ac450b" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:42:55.567" UserId="735" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="2140eba2-1932-4487-88d0-c39bd760b667" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:48:25.493" UserId="735" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I have a colleague who needs an additional monitor during presentations in the meeting room (the main beamer screen is too far/hard to see).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a video from Microsoft I saw they used monitors that were somewhat 'laying' on the table. Does anyone know what type of monitor this is?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2Fw6-2fCWU&#xD;&#xA;Watch @ 1:30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="b2a87b54-1b48-4ddd-8401-4f1f601dd698" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:49:18.737" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="I have a colleague who needs an additional monitor during presentations in the meeting room (the main beamer screen is too far/hard to see).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a video from Microsoft I saw they used monitors that were somewhat 'laying' on the table. Does anyone know what type of monitor this is?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;video: https://youtu.be/Z2Fw6-2fCWU?t=89&#xD;&#xA;Watch @ 1:30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="894" RevisionGUID="65f13859-fa34-49f1-8ee5-954b9d001334" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:54:50.037" UserId="653" Text="I currently have a small home-server, that runs a domain network &amp; is the center of all file storage in our household. The drawback is that we need **as much storage as possible**, but the server's case only supports a maximum of four drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware of the server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core2Duo E7500;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR2 @ 800MHz;&#xD;&#xA; - HDDs: (all SATA3) 320GB OS drive, 3TB (&quot;Common Files&quot;), 1TB (split into two partitions; 500GB backup for the OS drive, and 500GB for &quot;Common Files&quot;);&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows Server 2012 R2 Datacenter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drives/partitions for &quot;Common Files&quot; are dedicated to file storage for non-critical files and are not backed up. All critical files are held on the OS drive, the entire drive is backed up to the 500GB backup partition of the 1TB drive. **All critical files stored on the OS drive are automatically backed up to cloud services (namely Mega)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run a domain (ADDC) on the server so that any user-account/file can be accessed from any computer in the home. In addition to this, this configuration means that no data-loss occurs if a computer breaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server doesn't do much else than ensuring that everything can be accessed from anywhere within the house. It does run an SQL server (MSSQL) for local software development purposes, but it isn't used often. **At night (from ~11pm - 6am) the server is shut-down, with it automatically turning itself on at 6am via a timer set in the BIOS**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to build a new server that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has very low power usage;&#xD;&#xA; - Is quiet;&#xD;&#xA; - Can hold at least 6 hard drives;&#xD;&#xA; - Is reasonably quick;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to turn itself on automatically;&#xD;&#xA; - Be as cheap as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should also fit in the same space that the current server occupies, under my desk. *The piece of wood on-top of the server can be removed (space between the floor &amp; wood is ~12cm), if required*:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering replacing it with a NAS, but however I need the domain functionality and so this option isn't available to me. I also don't want to purchase a NAS in conjunction to the server as I need it to use as little space as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of the current hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Pentium G3258&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR3;&#xD;&#xA; - HDDs: All current drives (besides the 320GB OS drive), with three additional 3TB drives. Critical files moved to one of the HDDs, and automatically backed up to cloud services as before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm stumped on the motherboard &amp; case though, as they need to be small. Any recommendations or changes for the prospective hardware? I am also going to be replacing the router in the above photo with a network switch, as I already have another router elsewhere in the house that does most of the work (and handles DHCP of the router in the photo).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TXxvA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="894" RevisionGUID="65f13859-fa34-49f1-8ee5-954b9d001334" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:54:50.037" UserId="653" Text="System upgrade for a small home-server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="894" RevisionGUID="65f13859-fa34-49f1-8ee5-954b9d001334" CreationDate="2015-10-28T12:54:50.037" UserId="653" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="895" RevisionGUID="93f0ee22-83ed-4566-baa6-f6d59d4fe062" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:08:13.277" UserId="54" Text="I am not 100% sure about this particular model but this is very close:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Planar Helium PCT2785 27&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Dell 21.5-inches Multi-Touch Monitor with IPS S2240T][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Acer FT200HQL bmjj 19.5-Inch HD+ 1600 x 900 Touchscreen Monitor][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. [Dell S2240T 21.5-Inch Touch Screen LED-lit Monitor][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. [Planar PXL2430MW 24&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch LED Monitor][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PCT2785-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B00937115E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446037748&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Planar%20Helium&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ipmart.com.my/main/product/Dell_21_5_inches_Multi_Touch_Monitor_with_IPS_S2240T_Dell_Warranty_421253.php?prod=421253&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-FT200HQL-bmjj-19-5-Inch-Touchscreen/dp/B00GOBD2WW&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2240T-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B00CTODKIO&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://%20%20http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PXL2430MW-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B0053YJZ4U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="895" RevisionGUID="952ab4a5-1644-4a21-8be8-9541e9577c89" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:13:32.707" UserId="54" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I am not 100% sure about this particular model but this is very close:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Planar Helium PCT2785 27&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMuxpMk3gow&amp;t=0m38s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Dell 21.5-inches Multi-Touch Monitor with IPS S2240T][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Acer FT200HQL bmjj 19.5-Inch HD+ 1600 x 900 Touchscreen Monitor][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. [Dell S2240T 21.5-Inch Touch Screen LED-lit Monitor][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. [Planar PXL2430MW 24&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch LED Monitor][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PCT2785-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B00937115E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446037748&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Planar%20Helium&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ipmart.com.my/main/product/Dell_21_5_inches_Multi_Touch_Monitor_with_IPS_S2240T_Dell_Warranty_421253.php?prod=421253&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-FT200HQL-bmjj-19-5-Inch-Touchscreen/dp/B00GOBD2WW&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2240T-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B00CTODKIO&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://%20%20http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PXL2430MW-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B0053YJZ4U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="74b6bbdb-c92e-47d9-a142-96035de33491" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:24:38.677" UserId="737" Text="I've got an issue with my home Wifi network. I get 300mbps on my ISP modem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 Gigabyte ports and Wifi N &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an Xbox One (Wifi N) on the ground floor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got 1 desktop with Wifi AC and 2 other computers with Wifi N on the 1st floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the issue is that I cannot benefit from my fiber optic connection to it's full potential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my PC with wifi ac card i get about 25mbps, on the other computers/laptop it's about 18-20mbps. On the Xbox which is the nearest device to the modem (~20m apart) I get a 40-45mbps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to invest about 100euros and setup a network though Wifi (preferably but not limited to) that can let my xbox and PC get atleast a 100mbps (seperately in the best case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Wifi router or a pair of PLC adapters that can manage that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked into Cat6 ethernet cable (pretty cheap) but it's a real pain to setup and ruins the looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3187" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="74b6bbdb-c92e-47d9-a142-96035de33491" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:24:38.677" UserId="737" Text="Domestic wifi Network Management" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="74b6bbdb-c92e-47d9-a142-96035de33491" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:24:38.677" UserId="737" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3189" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="897" RevisionGUID="f48f4945-427a-4a75-9cad-e74db91eda17" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:28:22.217" UserId="737" Text="You could get better gaming mice for a 100 bucks but if you want all your techs in one software i'd tell you to go for the G602 http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g602-wireless-gaming-mouse, it's wireless but has a pretty huge battery life and about 11 programmable buttons so there you go it costs the same as the old g600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="14518486-59ad-4622-8a87-a5683abbb520" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:16:08.960" UserId="1" Comment="remove thanks" Text="I've got an issue with my home Wifi network. I get 300mbps on my ISP modem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 Gigabyte ports and Wifi N &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an Xbox One (Wifi N) on the ground floor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got 1 desktop with Wifi AC and 2 other computers with Wifi N on the 1st floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the issue is that I cannot benefit from my fiber optic connection to it's full potential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my PC with wifi ac card i get about 25mbps, on the other computers/laptop it's about 18-20mbps. On the Xbox which is the nearest device to the modem (~20m apart) I get a 40-45mbps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to invest about 100euros and setup a network though Wifi (preferably but not limited to) that can let my xbox and PC get atleast a 100mbps (seperately in the best case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Wifi router or a pair of PLC adapters that can manage that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked into Cat6 ethernet cable (pretty cheap) but it's a real pain to setup and ruins the looks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="4be65640-9218-4ab4-a9f1-9049cc91394f" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:27:35.750" UserId="60" Comment="Updated the layout and changed a few words around. Added PSU from comments." Text="I am planning to update my PC by December, but I have some doubts. This is what I have now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Asus H77-Pro4-M (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 3.30GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX 550 Ti&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 8GB (don't know speed at this moment)&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: 500W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to upgrade the CPU and graphics card, but I might only change the graphics card to be able to get a real monster. &#xD;&#xA;If I change the CPU and graphics card, I have thought about upgrading to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Gygabyte GeForce GTX 960 Gaming G1 Windforce 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I change only graphics card, I wold upgrade to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gygabyte GeForce GTX 970 Gaming G1 Windforce OC 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I doing this right? Will there be bottlenecks if I don't upgrade the CPU? Are there any similar components that I should look into?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="890" RevisionGUID="4be65640-9218-4ab4-a9f1-9049cc91394f" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:27:35.750" Comment="Proposed by 60 approved by 57, 732 edit id of 220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="899" RevisionGUID="187f0956-78f4-47e5-8ba7-81878d9fb9e5" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:58:39.563" UserId="75" Text="If you really want an android app you should look at certain brands.&#xD;&#xA;**But** if you don't need an app from the router manufacturer, basically any router with a USB and FTP-support should work. To answer your last question: There are routers that come with their own app, but usually you don't have to use that app (especially if FTP is supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally have pretty much the setup you're looking for. I have a **[FRITZ!Box][1]** with a **5TB USB 3.0 HDD** attached to it. So I can recommend a FRITZ!Box for this purpose but I'm sure there are other manufacturers providing routers with a similar service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I had to do, was to set it up as a FTP server. Now I can access it locally in the network or from outside with my email and password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, to back up the data of my phone, I use [FolderSync][2]. &lt;sub&gt;Again, this is just what I use and can recommend, because I tested it. You can use any backup/sync tool that supports FTP. &lt;/sub&gt; I just had to add my server and login to it and set up which folders I want to sync and where to sync them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difficulty to set something up like this is depending on the manufacturer and what they provide. For me it was fairly easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summarized, I wouldn't look for just a USB port. Look at the functions it has and if it supports something like a &quot;home cloud&quot;. I also strongly recommend googling the product name and read some reviews before buying. You may also find instructions to set it up as a FTP for your specific model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://en.avm.de/products/fritzbox/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.tacit.android.foldersync.lite" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="23585f93-2bc5-40ad-bba3-dbc2e276668c" CreationDate="2015-10-28T16:07:45.697" UserId="715" Comment="Chromebook: finish my sentence" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis when it arrives or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3197" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="891" RevisionGUID="076bbc15-ddc7-413a-9838-373bd6676b2a" CreationDate="2015-10-28T16:37:10.370" UserId="653" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="The i3-2120 is likely to be a bottleneck to the system if you were to only upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 970. [The i3-2120][1] is only a *dual-core CPU (with 4 threads)*, while the [i5-3470 is quad-core][2]; many modern games benefit from multiple CPU cores (*and some even require a four-core CPU, such as [Fallout 4][3]*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-3470 is **much more efficient** and newer than the i3-2120 (with a newer manufacturing process).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends on what games you plan on playing with your upgrade, for example Grand Theft Auto V will benefit from the i5-3470's performance, far more than a game focusing on graphical elements will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For Star Citizen I, [its system requirements][4] seem to focus on the CPU rather than the GPU, therefore you'd definitely be better-off with the i5-3470 &amp; the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Your motherboard][5] has three PCI-E slots, so you might benefit in using both the 960 &amp; 550Ti, with the 550Ti dedicated to PhysX. The amount of RAM you have is fine for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do not mind purchasing used parts, I'd recommend you get a 290X (*eBay has tons of them*) as you get more graphical power for less (in the UK, used 290X GPUs sell for around £160 while new 970s sell for around £200, making a used 290X £40 cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Ensure your power-supply is able to power a 290X*- you should have at least a [550W PSU][6], with the recommended wattage being 600W. Bear in mind that if you do go down this route you won't be able to support the 290X with your current 550Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also be able to get the i5-3470 (or an even better CPU) used as well, along with the 290X. It really depends how much you're willing to spend on upgrading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/53426/Intel-Core-i3-2120-Processor-3M-Cache-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/68316/Intel-Core-i5-3470-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.pcgamer.com/fallout-4-system-requirements-released/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5490&amp;game=Star%20Citizen&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H77%20Pro4-M/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/290x-with-650w-psu.197003/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3198" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="894" RevisionGUID="3c46a248-3cf8-458d-b4e3-1800756b9c0d" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:07:03.173" UserId="75" Comment="Resized image" Text="I currently have a small home-server, that runs a domain network &amp; is the center of all file storage in our household. The drawback is that we need **as much storage as possible**, but the server's case only supports a maximum of four drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware of the server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core2Duo E7500;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR2 @ 800MHz;&#xD;&#xA; - HDDs: (all SATA3) 320GB OS drive, 3TB (&quot;Common Files&quot;), 1TB (split into two partitions; 500GB backup for the OS drive, and 500GB for &quot;Common Files&quot;);&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Windows Server 2012 R2 Datacenter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drives/partitions for &quot;Common Files&quot; are dedicated to file storage for non-critical files and are not backed up. All critical files are held on the OS drive, the entire drive is backed up to the 500GB backup partition of the 1TB drive. **All critical files stored on the OS drive are automatically backed up to cloud services (namely Mega)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run a domain (ADDC) on the server so that any user-account/file can be accessed from any computer in the home. In addition to this, this configuration means that no data-loss occurs if a computer breaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server doesn't do much else than ensuring that everything can be accessed from anywhere within the house. It does run an SQL server (MSSQL) for local software development purposes, but it isn't used often. **At night (from ~11pm - 6am) the server is shut-down, with it automatically turning itself on at 6am via a timer set in the BIOS**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to build a new server that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has very low power usage;&#xD;&#xA; - Is quiet;&#xD;&#xA; - Can hold at least 6 hard drives;&#xD;&#xA; - Is reasonably quick;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to turn itself on automatically;&#xD;&#xA; - Be as cheap as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should also fit in the same space that the current server occupies, under my desk. *The piece of wood on-top of the server can be removed (space between the floor &amp; wood is ~12cm), if required*:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering replacing it with a NAS, but however I need the domain functionality and so this option isn't available to me. I also don't want to purchase a NAS in conjunction to the server as I need it to use as little space as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of the current hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Pentium G3258&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR3;&#xD;&#xA; - HDDs: All current drives (besides the 320GB OS drive), with three additional 3TB drives. Critical files moved to one of the HDDs, and automatically backed up to cloud services as before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm stumped on the motherboard &amp; case though, as they need to be small. Any recommendations or changes for the prospective hardware? I am also going to be replacing the router in the above photo with a network switch, as I already have another router elsewhere in the house that does most of the work (and handles DHCP of the router in the photo).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TXxvAm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TXxvA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3199" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="894" RevisionGUID="3c46a248-3cf8-458d-b4e3-1800756b9c0d" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:07:03.173" Comment="Proposed by 75 approved by 653 edit id of 221" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="900" RevisionGUID="92198a89-df61-46b7-a61e-30aa3e4ec4c6" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:24:38.647" UserId="653" Text="There are a variety of notebooks that are capable of running Linux, and some even have it pre-installed by the manufacturer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 13- Developer edition][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lightweight notebook, but its 13.3&quot; screen size *may* be too large for you. It does however come with Ubuntu 14.04 pre-installed, so hardware support for Linux is 100%. It's a bit on the pricey side though, but probably the laptop with the highest compatibility for Linux in this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-linux/pd?dgc=BA&amp;cid=290020&amp;lid=5562124&amp;acd=12309215118294297&amp;ven3=876003074094715159" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3201" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="900" RevisionGUID="41f69641-6ce3-4633-be31-e70e68c91bcc" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:37:31.100" UserId="653" Comment="added 1105 characters in body" Text="There are a variety of notebooks that are capable of running Linux, and some even have it pre-installed by the manufacturer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 13- Developer edition][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lightweight notebook, but its 13.3&quot; screen size *may* be too large for you. It does however come with Ubuntu 14.04 pre-installed, so hardware support for Linux is 100%. It's a bit on the pricey side though, but probably the laptop with the highest compatibility for Linux in this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also uses current (Intel 5th Generation Core i5 CPU) hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Asus 1015E][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This netbook has a 10.1&quot; screen, so it's within your specification. It is Windows-centred, but however an Ubuntu edition *is* available; this suggests that one pre-installed with Windows can be wiped &amp; installed with Ubuntu instead without hardware incompatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However it does use outdated hardware (the [Celeron 847 it uses was first released in 2011][3]), so you might find issues running NO$SNS &amp; multitasking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; ***Mobile Broadband***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a smartphone with a data plan (and it's an extensive data plan with a significant data allowance/unlimited data), you can tether it to your netbook via a cable or WiFi. PAYG (Pay as You Go [prepay]) plans sometimes offer great deals for mobile data (my own for example, offers a week's worth of free unlimited data when a top-up), so it might be worth having a brief look at PAYG plans too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-linux/pd?dgc=BA&amp;cid=290020&amp;lid=5562124&amp;acd=12309215118294297&amp;ven3=876003074094715159&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Notebooks/1015E/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/56056/Intel-Celeron-Processor-847-2M-Cache-1_10-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="900" RevisionGUID="e4c6a455-2c71-4af8-ad7e-f40d7497f0a9" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:46:36.307" UserId="653" Comment="added 1105 characters in body" Text="There are a variety of notebooks that are capable of running Linux, and some even have it pre-installed by the manufacturer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 13- Developer edition][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lightweight notebook, but its 13.3&quot; screen size *may* be too large for you. It does however come with Ubuntu 14.04 pre-installed, so hardware support for Linux is 100%. It's a bit on the pricey side though, but probably the laptop with the highest compatibility for Linux in this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also uses current (Intel 5th Generation Core i5 CPU) hardware. However it is the smallest XPS 13&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Asus 1015E][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This netbook has a 10.1&quot; screen, so it's within your specification. It is Windows-centred, but however an Ubuntu edition *is* available; this suggests that one pre-installed with Windows can be wiped &amp; installed with Ubuntu instead without hardware incompatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However it does use outdated hardware (the [Celeron 847 it uses was first released in 2011][3]), so you might find issues running NO$SNS &amp; multitasking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; ***Mobile Broadband***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a smartphone with a data plan (and it's an extensive data plan with a significant data allowance/unlimited data), you can tether it to your netbook via a cable or WiFi. PAYG (Pay as You Go [prepay]) plans sometimes offer great deals for mobile data (my own for example, offers a week's worth of free unlimited data when a top-up), so it might be worth having a brief look at PAYG plans too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anti-Theft**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why not purchase a larger laptop &amp; get a bag-pack? Most reasonably-sized bags will fit a 15.6&quot; laptop, and is not a 'traditional laptop bag' so it is less likely to be a target for thieves (as its contents are far less obvious). Doing so would dramatically open up your options for your new laptop, plus it will last far longer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-linux/pd?dgc=BA&amp;cid=290020&amp;lid=5562124&amp;acd=12309215118294297&amp;ven3=876003074094715159&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Notebooks/1015E/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/56056/Intel-Celeron-Processor-847-2M-Cache-1_10-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="901" RevisionGUID="b7391be8-e543-4b4c-a579-c0f35ac234ba" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:52:12.407" UserId="739" Text="Been thinking of launching some dedicated servers for a while now, using VPS:es. However I got some techinical questions about their specs and how much they would be able to handle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's say I want to host multiple Team Fortress 2 servers. Mostly I'm looking for to run custom gamemodes, that are, in my opinion, not so advanced. It could be one Saxton Hale server, One deathrun server and the last one would just be a normal CP server (like dustbowl for example). Now my question is, which of the specs below would run these 3 servers best? And would I even be able to run 4 servers (the 4th would also be a ctf server)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1st VPS:&#xD;&#xA;2 full cores (not given very much details about this), 2gb of ram and 8tb bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd server:&#xD;&#xA;2x3.2Ghz+ cores, 4GB RAM (6GB burstable) and 5tb bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bandwidth question is not really that important, i would use another host to handle all fastDL. But would it be any big difference in performance running these gamemodes on those specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="901" RevisionGUID="b7391be8-e543-4b4c-a579-c0f35ac234ba" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:52:12.407" UserId="739" Text="VPS specs and gaming dedicated servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="901" RevisionGUID="b7391be8-e543-4b4c-a579-c0f35ac234ba" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:52:12.407" UserId="739" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;vps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="902" RevisionGUID="0613616a-aa6a-45c5-8f6d-ccf978bc60cb" CreationDate="2015-10-28T18:05:09.113" UserId="653" Text="It comes down to what type of DVI cable you need; it seems that DVI male-to-male cables mostly do not have ferrite beads, but DVI male-to-female cables do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI Male-to-Male**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are readily available without ferrite beads [on eBay][2]. Are mainly used for connecting monitors to graphic cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI Male-to-Female**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are *very* hard to find without ferrite beads, *in fact I couldn't find any at all without ferrite beads*. However, you can get a DVI male-to-male lead and then use [this adapter](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-5m-DVI-DVI-D-24-1-Male-to-DVI-D-Female-Extension-Cable-LCD-DVD-HDTV-PC1080P-CI-/271635525021?hash=item3f3ebd2d9d:g:dacAAOSw1x1UPOym) (or similar) to make it a DVI male-to-female cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4AUbC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DVI-D-24-1-pin-Male-to-Male-Cable-Dual-Lead-2m-Black-/390933559547?hash=item5b0574b8fb:g:sK0AAOSwwbdWGBOo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3207" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="f4b7c8c7-e612-48cb-ad98-e9aae9d9df65" CreationDate="2015-10-28T18:10:23.613" UserId="715" Comment="I'm getting XY'd... again." Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis when it arrives or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves. Even if I were to carry it in a backpack, I'm still unsure of how I would test-drive the ability to use a larger laptop in the somewhat cramped quarters of a bus seat.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband. The price difference between my current flip phone plan and a smartphone data plan allowing tethering would likely exceed my budget.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="904" RevisionGUID="045fbf53-3151-4c32-8c7d-a03e432e992b" CreationDate="2015-10-28T18:24:53.793" UserId="653" Text="The second VPS server has the most resources available to it, therefore it would be the better option. *However none of the servers you listed will be able to run all three servers properly.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Insufficient CPU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be noted that you might run into problems with only two CPU cores. Try to go for one CPU core per server (*so at least three CPU cores*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VPSes are virtual servers, and thus you share resources. You will share resources with other virtual servers running on the physical machine, some providers guarantee a full CPU core (*such as in one of the VPSes you listed*), but not all do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Server Slots**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd be okay with 16 slots to each server on the second VPS, but any higher than that and you'd need more RAM; 4GB would be the limit for the servers you want to host.&#xD;&#xA;Although the VPS will look like you have 6GB RAM (in the hardware specifications within the operating system), the extra 2GB RAM will only be available to you if the physical machine hosting the VPS has the resources to do so.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3210" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="904" RevisionGUID="23753a22-3bcc-4923-9951-334d091c3f61" CreationDate="2015-10-28T18:27:49.787" UserId="653" Comment="added 275 characters in body" Text="The second VPS server has the most resources available to it, therefore it would be the better option. *However none of the servers you listed will be able to run all three servers properly.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Insufficient CPU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be noted that you might run into problems with only two CPU cores. Try to go for one CPU core per server (*so at least three CPU cores*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VPSes are virtual servers, and thus you share resources. You will share resources with other virtual servers running on the physical machine, some providers guarantee a full CPU core (*such as in one of the VPSes you listed*), but not all do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Server Slots**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd be okay with 16 slots to each server on the second VPS, but any higher than that and you'd need more RAM; 4GB would be the limit for the servers you want to host.&#xD;&#xA;Although the VPS will look like you have 6GB RAM (in the hardware specifications within the operating system), the extra 2GB RAM will only be available to you if the physical machine hosting the VPS has the resources to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You almost certainly want Linux, and most providers of VPSes will only support the use of Linux and not Windows, due to the *virtualizer* not supporting it. It is best to pick a popular Linux flavour, I personally use Ubuntu 14.04 on my own VPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I host a Minecraft server on a Platinum V8 server from Server4You; it is cheap but the service is very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 CPU cores;&#xD;&#xA; - 18GB RAM (30GB Burst);&#xD;&#xA; - 800GB HDD;&#xD;&#xA; - 100Mbit connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also offer good deals on lower-specification VPSes.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="904" RevisionGUID="bf509b83-9fb9-47ac-83d1-080a291f1f1d" CreationDate="2015-10-28T18:34:51.280" UserId="653" Comment="edited body" Text="The second VPS server has the most resources available to it, therefore it would be the better option. *However none of the servers you listed will be able to run all three servers properly.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Insufficient CPU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be noted that you might run into problems with only two CPU cores. Try to go for one CPU core per server (*so at least three CPU cores*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VPSes are virtual servers, and thus you share resources. You will share resources with other virtual servers running on the physical machine, some providers guarantee a full CPU core (*such as in one of the VPSes you listed*), but not all do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Server Slots**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd be okay with 16 slots to each server on the second VPS, but any higher than that and you'd need more RAM; 4GB would be the limit for the servers you want to host.&#xD;&#xA;Although the VPS will look like you have 6GB RAM (in the hardware specifications within the operating system), the extra 2GB RAM will only be available to you if the physical machine hosting the VPS has the resources to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You almost certainly want Linux, and most providers of VPSes will only support the use of Linux and not Windows, due to the *virtualizer* not supporting it. It is best to pick a popular Linux flavour, I personally use Ubuntu 14.04 on my own VPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I host a Minecraft server on a Platinum X8 server from Server4You; it is cheap but the service is very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 CPU cores;&#xD;&#xA; - 18GB RAM (30GB Burst);&#xD;&#xA; - 800GB HDD;&#xD;&#xA; - 100Mbit connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also offer good deals on lower-specification VPSes.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="866" RevisionGUID="18b401b2-adb6-4d99-a66d-6b59e938ba96" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:28:34.897" UserId="155" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that automatically supply and/or regulate electrical power for other devices. Do not use this tag for questions about PC power supplies (see the [smps] tag)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="905" RevisionGUID="e7fe7b74-68f1-46c1-8648-c9250be86c31" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:41:31.413" UserId="653" Text="**Looks like you've got some interference somewhere.** This can happen for a variety of reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bad placement of router**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Radio waves cannot easily travel through granite and other certain materials walls are made of, and your WiFi signal could suffer from degradation if your walls are made of one of these materials. A solution to this would be one (or more) of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Purchase a couple of signal boosters, and place them where WiFi signal is low;&#xD;&#xA; - Use a home-plug (aka, powerline adapter)- get a dual-pack so you can plug-in both your Xbox &amp; PC. This works by sending the Ethernet connection via your home's wiring- be sure to get a Gigabit set.&#xD;&#xA; - Could simply be that you need a new router. This is often the case where the router is supplied by the ISP, as these are mostly low-quality routers that are not able to properly handle 'serious' Internet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So **yes** a pair of powerline adapters (I assume that's what 'PLC' refers to) *may* do the trick, but then it may not (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Your router is too close to other appliances**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This links to the previous point, but a router could be suitably placed but be too near other appliances, for example a microwave. If your router is too close to another appliance, move it to a location where there are no appliances nearby.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Your router &amp; another router are sharing the same WiFi channel**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To fix, change the WiFi channel by logging into your router's web interface &amp; changing it appropriately. If you know how to use WiFi analyser programs, you can see which channel is free (if any) and then change the channel to that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Routers on the same WiFi channel create digital noise (dBA), and will cause problems with speed, packet loss, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It might not be your WiFi at all**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connect your desktop or Xbox directly to the router via Ethernet, and then run a connection speed test (*ensure WiFi is switched off on the Xbox so the Xbox doesn't connect to the router via WiFi!*). If it is much faster than WiFi, then you've got a problem with the wireless environment or the router itself (see above). If it is the same speed as WiFi, you've got a problem with the router or your ISP.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="151" RevisionGUID="4d09eb08-646b-4917-8ce7-c940b1291daf" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:46:35.807" UserId="155" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that allow pen and/or touch input on a pressure-sensitive surface. Also known as digitizers or drawing tablets." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="906" RevisionGUID="ff1921ac-89dc-46a7-b5dc-bbdec6863f40" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:35:25.370" UserId="653" Text="I live in a location which many websites don't recognise, and when multiplayer gaming I find that I am constantly matched with players from the United States instead of with players nearer to me (geographically). I found that when using free VPN services, I no longer have this problem and are matched with players much nearer to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to free VPNs being unreliable (bandwidth monitoring, constantly changing passwords, etc.), I have decided to purchase hardware or rent a VPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a list of possible hardware/VPSes I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Raspberry Pi- Small, uses hardly any power;&#xD;&#xA; - [VPS][1] (512MB RAM, single CPU core, 1TB bandwidth, 30GB SSD);&#xD;&#xA; - [Dedicated server][2] (2GB RAM, 500GB HDD, 2 CPU cores (4 threads))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Raspberry Pi is a decent option, but I doubt any provider would be willing to co-locate such a small device. The VPS is again a good option, but doesn't have much in the way of resources but is the cheapest option. The dedicated server I think is too much for what I need it for (an application to route my Internet connection through), but it could be a viable option if I wanted to host something else on it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like the option of hosting a small website on the server (along with the VPN application), so simply going for a paid VPN service isn't an option here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What amount of resources would a VPN application use; I already know about Internet, but what about RAM usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best option here, or perhaps I should choose something else?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://zare.co.uk/cloud&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kimsufi.com/uk/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="906" RevisionGUID="ff1921ac-89dc-46a7-b5dc-bbdec6863f40" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:35:25.370" UserId="653" Text="What should I use to run a VPN server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3220" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="906" RevisionGUID="ff1921ac-89dc-46a7-b5dc-bbdec6863f40" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:35:25.370" UserId="653" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;vps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="907" RevisionGUID="87c806a5-704c-4c49-bbb5-b07a180f890c" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:35:25.370" UserId="653" Text="I ended up going with the VPS with 512MB RAM, single CPU core, 1TB bandwidth, and 30GB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It was the cheapest option (even cheaper than purchasing a paid VPN service!);&#xD;&#xA; - It has a Gigabit connection, whereas the dedicated server does not;&#xD;&#xA; - VPN does not use much in the way of resources, besides Internet (it wouldn't have made sense to go for the dedicated server). This meant that some resources were left to run a small website on the VPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find a provider that would co-locate a Raspberry Pi unfortunately, and co-locating it wouldn't have made financial sense as co-location costs ~£60/month (for a 1U server) and for that money I could've rented the dedicated server for over a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There was also the option of switching ISP to one that told me (when I queried about the problem) their Internet connections are recognised as coming from the United Kingdom (incorrectly). However this would've meant I would spend a total of £70 simply moving ISP (plus another £40/month for rental).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Raspberry Pi**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small, but efficient. Would easily be able to run a VPN service with room to spare for running a (very) small website. High co-location cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VPS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheap, but good reviews of the company behind it. Would run a VPN service &amp; a small website, but would have trouble running anything else. Would be solid &amp; dependable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dedicated Server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks cheap, but is actually the average price for such a server when setup &amp; other costs are added. Would run a VPN service like a knife going through butter, and any other programs I would've liked to have run (even a small gameserver). However if only used for VPN, its specifications could be too much on the beefy side.&#xD;&#xA;Company itself also has mixed reviews." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3222" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="105" RevisionGUID="fcd142ec-af1d-4593-a953-8c4fa4747808" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:00:58.370" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="908" RevisionGUID="ff7c9991-87cd-4e76-a5e9-12b85a845fe8" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:10:06.277" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="909" RevisionGUID="794f10fd-b198-4df9-96bd-36daa51e0b32" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:10:06.277" UserId="155" Text="For questions about computer systems that only perform one specific task or set of tasks while relying on an external system to perform all other tasks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="85" RevisionGUID="71c83e69-4d03-4b15-97fb-5bf8f37c830a" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:20:36.613" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="814" RevisionGUID="a7761c02-adae-4a1a-b4cd-47224e09a982" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:27:53.580" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="For questions about physical-digital transcoders. These often interface with a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="910" RevisionGUID="1b7ad448-212b-4584-9588-49f602817b70" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:30:34.563" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="911" RevisionGUID="77bf5b9b-933f-49aa-9986-c35a76e228f2" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:30:34.563" UserId="155" Text="For questions about scanners used specifically to turn three-dimensional objects into digital models that can be manipulated on a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="912" RevisionGUID="bab53515-8deb-4fbc-b8fc-5447996a93df" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:33:53.490" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="913" RevisionGUID="f82e2303-6af7-4806-ad54-770f0d90cfd2" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:33:53.490" UserId="155" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware made by the Logitech company. Use this tag only if you want Logitech-specific recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="60f88e73-8e9d-404f-bd0f-15308da6c905" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:44:30.120" UserId="155" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning devices that should be waterproof. Do not use this tag to ask about water _resistant_ devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="914" RevisionGUID="5cf230b8-9048-459b-9509-cdb0b3a9a1e0" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:51:03.570" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="915" RevisionGUID="6bf9b276-8e24-4d43-82a6-76028aca8a12" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:51:03.570" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware that normally isn't easy to move around but portability is needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="221" RevisionGUID="91193ecd-8d60-4051-8c3d-5c1ca6ea508c" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:51:35.323" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3236" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="219" RevisionGUID="5a8bb3ac-46ce-41a2-a577-fa1125ede841" CreationDate="2015-10-28T23:55:10.583" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="652" RevisionGUID="fb19a34f-acd9-454a-a012-eb5f67f5964f" CreationDate="2015-10-29T00:19:42.660" UserId="476" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Adding more RAM might possibly help with your VM's. You should check task manager when running them to see if you are using most of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When gaming, more RAM won't help. You'd need to be running two games, skype and a couple browser tabs to get close to using all that RAM while you're gaming. Your GPU, on the other hand, is a different story. Upgrading to an   R9 390 ($330), or a GTX 980 Ti ($650), would massively boost your performance. Depending on your price range, the GPUs I listed would be a massive upgrade to your current GPU, for blender (when GPU accelerated), and games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also recommend using your old 760 as a PhysX card, especially if you actually play a game that supports PhysX. You could also just use it as a booster for Blender, as Blender supports rendering across heterogeneous GPUS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="916" RevisionGUID="d4dfe3bc-5dbd-4f78-b211-3b2068068901" CreationDate="2015-10-29T01:00:01.487" UserId="531" Text="I've a fair amount of experience with homeplug - I'm not going to recommend specific models since I have *no* clue if the sinoji plugs I use are available elsewhere or are the best option outside my current market. Wirecutter seems to like [zyxel][1] at the moment and are a good place for up to date reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd suggest getting homeplug 500 or better gear if you want 100mbps. *Typically* the advertised speed is for the *whole* network, and you never ever get line speed over homeplug. I have homeplug 1800 gear at the moment. Its got better noise rejection and reliability, even if realworld speeds are ~300mbps. They do work fantastically for me though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff to look for? homeplug units *must* be plugged directly into a socket, no powerstrips. Get passthrough models, and plug a powerstrip to that instead. Passthrough models also filter noise. Wallwarts and other SMPS devices produce *some* noise that may affect signal quality, so plug them into a passthrough or a powerstrip on an extension cord. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you get cutouts - it might be due to a powerful motor like a washing machine. Move the homeplug unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for wifi, I currently have a 2 AP setup. If I was doing it again, I'd pick up &quot;professional&quot; grade APs - we used to have ubiquity APs in my last workplace and they were *fantastic*, with easy management. Ars technica has an in depth review of the current models [here][2]. They are 'pure' APs so you can hook them into your current router. I'd probably end up with a 3pack, hooked into more homeplug units or directly into a (better) router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/10/review-ubiquiti-unifi-made-me-realize-how-terrible-consumer-wi-fi-gear-is/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3239" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="906" RevisionGUID="17513eaf-ffea-4ab8-b7f7-347afddd53e7" CreationDate="2015-10-29T01:46:25.907" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="800" RevisionGUID="734e0875-b749-4e65-a2c0-9fa03baa8ae1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T01:52:13.517" UserId="155" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware that will be used in running a certain type of server such as a web server or VPS. Use this tag for questions about about which type of server to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="552c90e7-ce3d-43e1-be0e-d402ce726013" CreationDate="2015-10-29T05:36:23.527" UserId="155" Comment="appended answer 917 as supplemental" Text="I've got an issue with my home Wifi network. I get 300mbps on my ISP modem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 Gigabyte ports and Wifi N &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an Xbox One (Wifi N) on the ground floor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got 1 desktop with Wifi AC and 2 other computers with Wifi N on the 1st floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the issue is that I cannot benefit from my fiber optic connection to it's full potential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my PC with wifi ac card i get about 25mbps, on the other computers/laptop it's about 18-20mbps. On the Xbox which is the nearest device to the modem (~20m apart) I get a 40-45mbps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to invest about 100euros and setup a network though Wifi (preferably but not limited to) that can let my xbox and PC get atleast a 100mbps (seperately in the best case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Wifi router or a pair of PLC adapters that can manage that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked into Cat6 ethernet cable (pretty cheap) but it's a real pain to setup and ruins the looks.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;So I'm looking into home plugs but the ones that give acceptable speed are pretty costly (as expected), and for the wifi part I've come across some Xiaomi routers that are WifiAC capable that costs about 30bucks but unfortunalety there are no reviews on them to see their actual speed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="918" RevisionGUID="d5a5517d-2070-4cd5-83f3-d3132c177122" CreationDate="2015-10-29T08:26:43.770" UserId="531" Text="The *perfect* system here's impossible (and I'd be glad to be proven wrong). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [HP microserver gen 8][2]&#xD;&#xA;however would be a fairly *decent* simple replacement that'll meet *many* of your needs, though not all.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size: 23.24x 23 x 24.5 cm Taller than your space, but this is about as small as it gets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4-16gb of ram (I'd get the base model, and add ram myself) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 3.5 inch drive bays (this is the tricky thing here) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supposedly fairly quiet (I've not owned one myself).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might be able to replace the slimline optical drive on top with an [ssd or a 2.5 inch drive][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard flexATX for power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;iLO for *full* access to the system offline.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also have an SD card slot/internal USB port if you arn't running windows and want to boot off either. You could probably use that for a recovery environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor options are low power, and I'd go with a pentium based model here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pGQ5o.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/proliant-servers/product-detail.html?oid=5379860&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1377-page3.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="918" RevisionGUID="84a4faff-1953-4063-a813-ee72379d8014" CreationDate="2015-10-29T09:14:16.820" UserId="531" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="The *perfect* system here's impossible (and I'd be glad to be proven wrong). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [HP microserver gen 8][2]&#xD;&#xA;however would be a fairly *decent* simple replacement that'll meet *many* of your needs, though not all.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size: 23.24x 23 x 24.5 cm Taller than your space, but this is about as small as it gets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4-16gb of ram (I'd get the base model, and add ram myself) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 3.5 inch drive bays (this is the tricky thing here) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supposedly fairly quiet (I've not owned one myself).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might be able to replace the slimline optical drive on top with an [ssd or a 2.5 inch drive][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard flexATX for power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;iLO for *full* access to the system offline.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also have an SD card slot/internal USB port if you arn't running windows and want to boot off either. You could probably use that for a recovery environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor options are low power, and I'd go with a pentium based model here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I needed more bays I'd pair this up with a comparable sized NAS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pGQ5o.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/proliant-servers/product-detail.html?oid=5379860&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1377-page3.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3247" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="906" RevisionGUID="8703f552-df40-4b84-ab5d-7d4548f0cb8e" CreationDate="2015-10-29T09:51:02.427" UserId="653" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;vps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="919" RevisionGUID="e367e36b-c3f8-41cb-8499-29dffa3ed4d4" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:07:51.773" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="3251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="922" RevisionGUID="2672f893-8a4e-4fe6-9de6-560a1fcebeff" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:09:06.377" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="923" RevisionGUID="80482c26-a868-4d77-8872-c2f70c9b0450" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:10:26.917" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3253" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="924" RevisionGUID="c06dc0fd-62e8-4094-af02-d7bcebf5b7e8" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:10:26.917" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="925" RevisionGUID="06f534f5-6f0f-46f4-a3b9-d4e96676900e" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:11:24.420" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="926" RevisionGUID="ae96d33d-fdb9-4274-9371-1c84fc8b8465" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:11:24.420" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="927" RevisionGUID="78f28ca9-6618-4957-baef-9029a3d8345e" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:13:06.653" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="928" RevisionGUID="8d9a1a4d-e118-42f1-b43f-50c538bdc184" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:13:06.653" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="920" RevisionGUID="ddcecfec-9003-49f5-91a4-470ef829601e" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:32:48.840" UserId="653" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="Device that outputs a document on paper. Use this tag when searching for a new printer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="920" RevisionGUID="ddcecfec-9003-49f5-91a4-470ef829601e" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:32:48.840" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by -1 edit id of 223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="920" RevisionGUID="bbd6517e-e49d-4ecc-a7bf-f09cd516aa94" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:32:48.840" UserId="8" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that output text or graphics to paper or another printable medium." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="e4696c91-9573-4382-a8f0-a48c8c8ad54a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:33:20.260" UserId="653" Comment="Edited tags, removed abuse of `code` formatting." Text="Currently I have a desktop running Windows 10 with the following parts  [seen here][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU 	        Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard 	ASRock X79 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard;&#xD;&#xA; - Memory 	        Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory, Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory;&#xD;&#xA; - Video Card 	    EVGA GeForce GTX 760 4GB Dual FTW ACX Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to do is make some improvements for 'future-proofing', and make some other minor upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently this is used for software development (running VMs, VS2015, eclipse), some rendering (Blender whenever I have the time to work on it), as well as some games (mostly MMORPGs, occasionally Skyrim, Kerbal Space Program, Civ V, with potentially Fallout 4 being added in).  A future use case will be more photo and video processing, as my wife wants to be able to use Photoshop and other editing tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to is change the video card and put in a 9XX series graphics card in there (I'm sticking to NVIDIA for CUDA work), and maxxing out the RAM to be 32GB (which is the maximum that motherboard can support). Given my use cases, would I gain more value simply upgrading the video card, and leaving the memory the same, or should I upgrade both? (Note: already have an SSD, just concerned about the components I've mentioned in the scope of the question)&#xD;&#xA;				&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Ldvcpg " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3268" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="e4696c91-9573-4382-a8f0-a48c8c8ad54a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:33:20.260" UserId="653" Comment="Edited tags, removed abuse of `code` formatting." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="e4696c91-9573-4382-a8f0-a48c8c8ad54a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:33:20.260" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by -1 edit id of 222" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3270" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="643" RevisionGUID="51283d5c-5bb6-47e2-aa92-cf708123d8a0" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:33:20.260" UserId="8" Comment="Edited tags, removed abuse of `code` formatting." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="916" RevisionGUID="01e4fa92-b879-4064-8c0c-8e8dbb639bec" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:52:13.813" UserId="531" Comment="added 203 characters in body" Text="I've a fair amount of experience with homeplug - I'm not going to recommend specific models since I have *no* clue if the sinoji plugs I use are available elsewhere or are the best option outside my current market. Wirecutter seems to like [zyxel][1] at the moment and are a good place for up to date reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd suggest getting homeplug 500 or better gear if you want 100mbps. *Typically* the advertised speed is for the *whole* network, and you never ever get line speed over homeplug. I have homeplug 1800 gear at the moment. Its got better noise rejection and reliability, even if realworld speeds are ~300mbps. They do work fantastically for me though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff to look for? homeplug units *must* be plugged directly into a socket, no powerstrips. Get passthrough models, and plug a powerstrip to that instead. Passthrough models also filter noise. Wallwarts and other SMPS devices produce *some* noise that may affect signal quality, so plug them into a passthrough or a powerstrip on an extension cord. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you get cutouts - it might be due to a powerful motor like a washing machine. Move the homeplug unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for wifi, I currently have a 2 AP setup. If I was doing it again, I'd pick up &quot;professional&quot; grade APs - we used to have ubiquity APs in my last workplace and they were *fantastic*, with easy management. Ars technica has an in depth review of the current models [here][2]. They are 'pure' APs so you can hook them into your current router. I'd probably end up with a 3pack, hooked into more homeplug units or directly into a (better) router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features like heatmaps and the way they handle clients are far ahead of most consumer routers. At a certain level of complexity, these give you more options and *information* to optimise your network. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/10/review-ubiquiti-unifi-made-me-realize-how-terrible-consumer-wi-fi-gear-is/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3272" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="630" RevisionGUID="c4900d69-5104-43a9-ba64-aaf3257b6a46" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:57:22.553" UserId="653" Comment="There is now a Passmark score for this CPU, so updated the answer." Text="[Plex suggests a passmark score of &gt;2000][1], and suggests a core2duo at 2.4ghz as a minimum for a single 1080P stream.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I initially looked at the modern 'atom' architecture celerons but they're a bit too weak. If you *didn't* need realtime, 1080p transcoding they're excellent. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such at modern processors a dual core 'pentium' based off a 'core' architecture would be a great option. I'm sure someone would suggest an AMD equivalent, which would likely be price and maybe even performance competitive, but as is, intel makes more *efficient* processors, and well, I'm familiar with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets talk about *right now*. I tend to use the [falcon logical increments guides][2] as a starting point for a new build. There's a minimum build based off the intel [G3250][3], and that [exceeds the necessary passmark score][4]. Dual cores, and if you drop the add on GPU, the whole build is *under* 300 dollars.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For near future use, the [dual core, dual thread G3470][5] looks like a good option. It's based off skylake (so you can take advantage of all the lovely new features the newer board will have). [The Passmark score for the G3470 is 3,753](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_lookup.php?cpu=Intel+Pentium+G3470+%40+3.60GHz&amp;id=2521). While this is a 'next generation' part, for a line that's just trickling into retail, its worth considering this would be a future proof design, which you can upgrade to the next generation, and motherboards may support newfangled things like m.2 and DDR4 optionally. I'd actually have recommended a G3270, if it existed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.plex.tv/hc/en-us/articles/201774043-What-kind-of-CPU-do-I-need-for-my-Server-computer-&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/83538/Intel-Pentium-Processor-G3250-3M-Cache-3_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Pentium%20G3250%20%40%203.20GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ark.intel.com/products/87358/Intel-Pentium-Processor-G3470-3M-Cache-3_60-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="630" RevisionGUID="c4900d69-5104-43a9-ba64-aaf3257b6a46" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:57:22.553" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by 531 edit id of 228" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3274" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="a3b260fb-51cb-4a53-a145-93059d8f7848" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:58:47.603" UserId="-1" Comment="3" />
  <row Id="3280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="932" RevisionGUID="cc801a72-dac0-4359-bd94-466371dc9517" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:58:44.180" UserId="8" Text="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;a recommendation for hardware to perform a specific task, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;information that will lead to a purchase decision&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="933" RevisionGUID="3eea5e4f-f8f2-4d65-9ab9-191bbef69694" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:59:40.553" UserId="8" Text="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Technical support of any kind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Step-by-step instructions for &quot;do-it-yourself&quot; installation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Anything not directly related to recommending hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions that are primarily opinion-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions with too many possible answers or that would require an extremely long answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="b01c28d4-0e7e-417a-a627-0cbd28c9b123" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:08:00.620" UserId="543" Text="I am at the end stages of choosing parts for my PC but am finding it quite difficult to choose a CPU cooler since there is so much to take in. Should I go for a standard CPU cooler (with fans), a fanless one or water cooling? I am considering either water cooling / fanless because they are both quieter than normal coolers. Would you recommend going for a water cooling system or a fanless      cooler? My only concern with the water cooling is that if in some way it    malfunctions, it might damage my other parts. Out of the three options I know they&#xD;&#xA;all have their positive and negatives but which one would you say is best? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="b01c28d4-0e7e-417a-a627-0cbd28c9b123" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:08:00.620" UserId="543" Text="CPU Cooler Recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="b01c28d4-0e7e-417a-a627-0cbd28c9b123" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:08:00.620" UserId="543" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="eed7b35f-f0fc-497c-b7a6-ef08de95ed16" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:29:41.260" UserId="543" Comment="added 439 characters in body" Text="I am at the end stages of choosing parts for my PC but am finding it quite difficult to choose a CPU cooler since there is so much to take in. Should I go for a standard CPU cooler (with fans), a fanless one or water cooling? I am considering either water cooling / fanless because they are both quieter than normal coolers. Would you recommend going for a water cooling system or a fanless      cooler? My only concern with the water cooling is that if in some way it    malfunctions, it might damage my other parts. Out of the three options I know they&#xD;&#xA;all have their positive and negatives but which one would you say is best? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU*** - Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard*** - Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - ***Memory*** - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage*** - Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case*** - NZXT H440 (Blue/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power Supply*** - SeaSonic X Series 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="2aa3a9a5-f541-4a57-9ffc-cd9aa17e5fed" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:37:17.010" UserId="715" Comment="Clarification per comment: 5 GHz is not critical" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis when it arrives or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points. (5 GHz would be nice to have but is not critical because 2.4 GHz works.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves. Even if I were to carry it in a backpack, I'm still unsure of how I would test-drive the ability to use a larger laptop in the somewhat cramped quarters of a bus seat.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband. The price difference between my current flip phone plan and a smartphone data plan allowing tethering would likely exceed my budget.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="935" RevisionGUID="95695ff1-07d3-45b5-af24-0ceee94c6e4a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:18:59.190" UserId="753" Text="I'm going to buy a Raspberry PI 2 B and install osmc on it.&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering which type (r/w speed) of Micro SD I should buy and which size (8, 16 ,32 go).&#xD;&#xA;My movies, pictures, etc are stored on an Nas and the Raspberry will be wired on the same LAN." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="935" RevisionGUID="95695ff1-07d3-45b5-af24-0ceee94c6e4a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:18:59.190" UserId="753" Text="Micro SD for Raspberry PI 2 B" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="935" RevisionGUID="95695ff1-07d3-45b5-af24-0ceee94c6e4a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:18:59.190" UserId="753" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="936" RevisionGUID="dd74592b-c2b1-41e9-a78d-588659404dd6" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:19:53.653" UserId="57" Text="I don't recommend fanless or water cooling. Instead, I recommend [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO][1] (which is a newer version of the [212 Plus][2] I have).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cooler Master 212 EVO][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very quiet fan. The specs say it's between 9-36 dBA. For me, it's quieter than the noise my video card generates. It keeps the CPU cool too. I don't have a &quot;before&quot; comparison, as it was installed when I built the machine, but I have had no issues with the temperature of the CPU. This is despite very processor intensive tests and real world work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg is selling this for $30, which Google is telling me is about £20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/MVHnx.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="937" RevisionGUID="2498a774-cd6b-4e42-81d6-9039b98c1a53" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:44:34.093" UserId="754" Text="It can be very expensive to make your TV setup open for all kind of devices in our homes.&#xD;&#xA;There are many wireless display standards and having many different devices calls for these options to be available. I am not going to discuss each standard.&#xD;&#xA;Currently I want mostly to have AirPlay and Google Cast always usable when my TV in on.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;My current TV setup is;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1x Chromecast stick (#1) &#xD;&#xA; - 1X AppleTV (#2) &#xD;&#xA; - 1X Minix Neo X8-h &#xD;&#xA; - 1x Samsung TV 2010 version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having these makes me use 3 HDMI ports, and makes 3 standards available. (Google Cast, AirPlay and (Play To, DLNA, UPnP))&#xD;&#xA;I thought that highend android boxes would cover all standards, but AirPlay is bad you have to start up a specific app and the same goes with Miracast. Also Airplay only takes the sound channel when using XBMC on the Minix.&#xD;&#xA;So I still need to have my ATV2 and Chromecast connected, to make my setup work, when I want to share content on the big display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am always waiting for that one device that supports all standards every single time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3292" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="937" RevisionGUID="2498a774-cd6b-4e42-81d6-9039b98c1a53" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:44:34.093" UserId="754" Text="Streaming Devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3293" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="937" RevisionGUID="2498a774-cd6b-4e42-81d6-9039b98c1a53" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:44:34.093" UserId="754" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3294" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="758" RevisionGUID="a13d4c13-0e4a-47b4-acc9-86b9560952d9" CreationDate="2015-10-29T15:57:25.223" UserId="652" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="I need a 4k 40 inch TV that I will use when writing software. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;- the ability to disable overscan&#xD;&#xA;- to disable all image processing&#xD;&#xA;- low lag&#xD;&#xA;- around 40&quot; in size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that the most popular TV for this user is a 39 inch Seiki, but it has some problems and also I cannot find in Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested now in finding info of a Philips 43PUH4900 which I can easily buy and it costs 400 Euro, but I can't find any reviews for it on the internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise I am open for receiving hints on popular brands like LG or Samsung." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="938" RevisionGUID="e99b44d4-f3a5-45f4-bc51-56645a63cc21" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:15:31.283" UserId="755" Text="I'm putting together a new server for my current database which has 500GB of data and over 13million rows in 90 tables. My read speed is very slow at the moment using SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to use a Dell server, but my biggest concern is selecting the correct drives and raid setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend me super any fast drives(SAS, SSD, PICe), or extras? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="938" RevisionGUID="e99b44d4-f3a5-45f4-bc51-56645a63cc21" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:15:31.283" UserId="755" Text="Fast Drives for MySQL Database Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="938" RevisionGUID="e99b44d4-f3a5-45f4-bc51-56645a63cc21" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:15:31.283" UserId="755" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="eb633bb7-514e-414d-af61-d18bbe5bc68a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:15:37.237" UserId="229" Text="I am looking into getting a electronic drum kit that I can use for both recreational use (like an acoustic drum set) and for Rock Band 4, preferably with pro-cymbal support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about getting an ION drum kit, but I have found [this comment](http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5154130#Comment_5154130) amongst others in this thread.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Q: I play Rock Band with my ION Drum Kit. Will the ION Drum Kit, as well as other MIDI drum kits, be compatible with Rock Band 4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A: The short answer is “no, not at launch.” Our first priority is to make sure that the core Rock Band legacy instruments be compatible on day one when Rock Band 4 launches – and they will be! If you want to see ION support in Rock Band 4, you can let ION Audio know by contacting them here: http://www.ionaudio.com/support/. We know that many of you play Rock Band using these peripherals, and we are actively working on finding a solution to this compatibility issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an alternative to playing an e-kit with Rock Band 4 on Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, are there any adapters or extra accessories that I need to get as well?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3301" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="eb633bb7-514e-414d-af61-d18bbe5bc68a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:15:37.237" UserId="229" Text="Electronic drum kit compatible with Rock Band 4 on Xbox One" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="eb633bb7-514e-414d-af61-d18bbe5bc68a" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:15:37.237" UserId="229" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="6ae9ebb2-a849-4bed-870a-9c98c93bc716" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:18:57.217" UserId="756" Text="This question might seem weird at first, but I *do* mean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__I want to buy a good IPS screen for my laptop.__  &#xD;&#xA;This is not about price or compatibility, but about **quality**.  &#xD;&#xA;I want to buy _just screen, **not** the whole laptop_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Long story short&#xD;&#xA;In (most) modern laptops, screen is connected to motherboard using **Embedded DisplayPort connector**. **As I understand** (and according to my experience), there are **no vendor-specific variations**, just a few standard variants (namely 20, 30 and 40-pin connectors). It is just a plain DisplayPort interface with cheaper/smaller connector and added pins for backlight and power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What it means is that as of today, laptop screen compatibility question boils down do &quot;Does it (physically) fit (including connector)?&quot;, which is easily answered for example by looking at photo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically, choosing laptop screen should be almost the same as choosing external monitor.  &#xD;&#xA;Except one thing.  &#xD;&#xA;I have seen nothing like *&quot;AUO b156han01.2 IPS panel review&quot;*. **Have you?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Solution I want&#xD;&#xA;I basically want a **general** suggestion on how to find LCD panel of specific size, with specific (e.g. 30-pin eDP) connector, that has desired qualities (e.g. brightness of at least 300 cd/m²) and does not have problems like obviously uneven backlight or wrong colors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution &quot;search for laptop and then buy original panel&quot; will not do, same way as searching for preassembled PC with everything included will not do if you only need a monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3304" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="6ae9ebb2-a849-4bed-870a-9c98c93bc716" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:18:57.217" UserId="756" Text="Choosing IPS screen for laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="6ae9ebb2-a849-4bed-870a-9c98c93bc716" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:18:57.217" UserId="756" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="806b0c05-bf62-4daa-af27-4d11ed507f08" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:01:02.907" UserId="476" Text="I don't know your budget... If it's low, than the CM 212 EVO as stated above is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the NZXT Kraken x61. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3312" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="3a3e8ffa-399a-4d6b-9222-ea9a1a976a03" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:14:29.293" UserId="543" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="I am at the end stages of choosing parts for my PC but am finding it quite difficult to choose a CPU cooler since there is so much to take in. Should I go for a standard CPU cooler (with fans), a fanless one or water cooling? I am considering either water cooling / fanless because they are both quieter than normal coolers. Would you recommend going for a water cooling system or a fanless      cooler? My only concern with the water cooling is that if in some way it    malfunctions, it might damage my other parts. Out of the three options I know they&#xD;&#xA;all have their positive and negatives but which one would you say is best? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU*** - Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard*** - Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - ***Memory*** - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage*** - Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case*** - NZXT H440 (Blue/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power Supply*** - SeaSonic X Series 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Budget:*** Around £720 pounds (the parts listed above total £670 so the cooler is in budget as long as it is under £60 or there about)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="85d0047b-e0af-4f16-86d0-598c0fc0a301" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:21:12.217" UserId="476" Comment="Added link" Text="I don't know your budget... If it's low, than the CM 212 EVO as stated above is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the NZXT Kraken x61. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is available for $123.99 at [SuperBiiz][1], $10 with the promo code **SCREAM10**, ending November 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-X61&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="943" RevisionGUID="f58f07be-1154-461f-a007-6e0d8bb3a791" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:28:53.267" UserId="476" Text="This is a slightly more budget friendly option, which is according to the budget which was just edited in, the Noctua NH-D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This CPU cooler keeps temps pretty low, about 5*C higher on an i7-4770k than the NZXT Kraken x61 I mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NH-D14 is an air cooler available [here][1], for 56 pounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Is an air cooler, and therefore does not have the probability to leak&#xD;&#xA; - Is within the budget&#xD;&#xA; - Is colder than the 212 evo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA; - Not as cold as the Kraken x61&#xD;&#xA; - Looks ugly as heck&#xD;&#xA; - Is only 4 pounds lower than the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2010/01/noctua-nh-d14-cpu-cooler-review/4.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="602666db-1716-43aa-a64a-46ec8a052ebb" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:29:53.410" UserId="476" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="However, if you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the NZXT Kraken x61. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is available for $123.99 at [SuperBiiz][1], $10 with the promo code **SCREAM10**, ending November 2. The question was edited with a budget after I posted this answer. Hopefully someone else finds this answer well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-X61&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="209e3aa5-07d2-4721-adb2-e6ed77e3cae2" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:47:59.620" UserId="60" Comment="Changed the link to NZXT's website and removed promo code." Text="The question was edited with a budget after I posted this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the [NZXT Kraken x61][2]. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe. It is available for $140 USD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/147-kraken-x61-liquid-cooler.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="938" RevisionGUID="501befa4-1793-449b-b9c7-328b977105a2" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:03:16.940" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="779" RevisionGUID="5ebc948d-ed3f-44b1-b100-4077b90254ac" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:06:27.833" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning a storage device's life span, reliability, or other property. Use this tag by itself for questions about choosing storage hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="226" RevisionGUID="8b03cbe0-52da-41cf-a60f-7cf05859f458" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:12:44.630" UserId="155" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="PC is an abbreviation for personal computer. Use this tag for questions about PCs as a whole. Do not use this tag along with the [desktop] or [laptop] tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="4242e34a-6870-42e2-bf3f-af936589778f" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:13:15.400" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="674" RevisionGUID="0cdc50f8-0acb-400c-9be4-8330d2c0b09d" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:21:42.170" UserId="155" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="For questions about computers consisting of a non-portable tower where all components are housed inside a case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="944" RevisionGUID="fdc02495-f317-4b5b-9e5e-f5c9148a8b4b" CreationDate="2015-10-29T22:23:05.987" UserId="537" Text="As an alternative to @rubyjunk, there is a similar water cooler made by corsair that includes usb control for only $100: the H100i.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;anecdote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have personally had a H100i on an overclocked FX-8350 (125w TDP), and the maximum temperature I've seen has been 40 degrees. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did have the 212 Evo previously, but I found that it got unreasonably hot on my rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;/anecdote&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="944" RevisionGUID="9eb640b9-9585-4238-82ab-9ddf5c6f3d6c" CreationDate="2015-10-29T22:28:13.780" UserId="537" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="As an alternative to @rubyjunk, there is a similar water cooler made by corsair that includes usb control for only $100: the [H100i](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;anecdote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have personally had a H100i on an overclocked FX-8350 (125w TDP), and the maximum temperature I've seen has been 40 degrees. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did have the 212 Evo previously, but I found that it got unreasonably hot on my rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;/anecdote&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="944" RevisionGUID="e8f9e77f-6eba-4c81-94c8-2613ab3b62a8" CreationDate="2015-10-29T22:29:32.900" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="As an alternative to @rubyjunk, there is a similar water cooler made by corsair that includes usb control for only $100: the [H100i](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have personally had a H100i on an overclocked FX-8350 (125w TDP), and the maximum temperature I've seen has been 40 degrees. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did have the 212 Evo previously, but I found that it got unreasonably hot on my rig." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="932" RevisionGUID="57ace054-21c4-4ba3-93c0-a50696abe8c5" CreationDate="2015-10-29T22:46:54.480" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 26 characters in body" Text=" * specific hardware that would enable you to perform a certain task&#xA; * information that will lead to a purchase decision&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="945" RevisionGUID="345caba8-7d5d-4ee2-891d-de4c172fd11b" CreationDate="2015-10-30T00:26:57.030" UserId="476" Text="I don't own one of these, so I can't say how I feel about it, but it seems interesting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a [laser keyboard][1] which is said to be &quot;fast and accurate&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Supports everything, from iOS, to Android, to Windows XP - 10, and Mac OSX&#xD;&#xA; - Is said to be &quot;accurate&quot; on Amazon page.&#xD;&#xA; - Has bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - Supports USB&#xD;&#xA; - Only weighs 5.6 ounces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Only registers ~7 chars/second. If you can type that fast, this is a con.&#xD;&#xA; - Quoting an amazon review &#xD;&#xA;&gt; must be used on a flat surface that is non-reflective and uniform in color.&#xD;&#xA; - Quoting the same review&#xD;&#xA;&gt; laser keyboard is more difficult to see during the day than is a normal keyboard. It's bright enough to see, but in strong light, the edges are a bit hazy and when the product is new to you, this will slow you down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Customer Image][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Image][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLLXGJ0/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7tPm1.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41TK2ZF%2BypL.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="79b0252e-edcc-4bec-a233-1db690503fc5" CreationDate="2015-10-30T00:36:05.257" UserId="476" Comment="Added 3rd party retailer that is cheaper." Text="The question was edited with a budget after I posted this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the [NZXT Kraken x61][1]. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe. It is available for $140 USD on the official NZXT website. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get is from a 3rd person retailer $20 cheaper [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/147-kraken-x61-liquid-cooler.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1165545-REG/nzxt_rl_krx61_01_kraken_x61_280mm_all_in_one.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="c61dfb6c-ac02-4484-b3a6-8c26c9493085" CreationDate="2015-10-30T01:18:20.547" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am at the end stages of choosing parts for my PC but am finding it quite difficult to choose a CPU cooler since there is so much to take in. Should I go for a standard CPU cooler (with fans), a fanless one or water cooling? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering either water cooling / fanless because they are both quieter than normal coolers. Would you recommend going for a water cooling system or a fanless cooler? My only concern with the water cooling is that if in some way it malfunctions, it might damage my other parts. Out of the three options I know they&#xD;&#xA;all have their positive and negatives but which one would you say is best? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU*** - Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard*** - Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - ***Memory*** - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage*** - Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case*** - NZXT H440 (Blue/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power Supply*** - SeaSonic X Series 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Budget:*** Around £720 pounds (the parts listed above total £670 so the cooler is in budget as long as it is under £60 or there about)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3329" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="c61dfb6c-ac02-4484-b3a6-8c26c9493085" CreationDate="2015-10-30T01:18:20.547" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="CPU cooling system recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="946" RevisionGUID="a8d4b34b-9de7-4b15-bb97-47223d9f1fff" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:22:24.950" UserId="203" Text="Since streaming is a decently multithreaded application, I'm going to go ahead and suggest an AMD equivalent, the Athlon 860K, based off the Steamroller architecture. It is an unlocked CPU, dual-module, 4 CMT cores, with [a passmark score of 5617][1], it shouldn't be much more expensive than the Pentiums. If you want a iGP, the [A8-7670K is my recommendation, priced about $20 more][2]. Note the CPU would be slower because it has to share TDP with the graphics. Otherwise, you can purchase a discrete GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd suggest a cooler to go with the CPU as well, something like the [Cryorig H7][3], to move the 95 W of heat away. You may even overclock a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Athlon and A8 both use DDR3 RAM. If you choose the A8, be sure to get fast RAM, because the iGP would perform significantly faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the AMD should be slightly more expensive, and also slightly faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD%20Athlon%20X4%20860K%20Quad%20Core&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/amd-cpu-ad767kxbjcbox&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="947" RevisionGUID="a885aa48-ad36-4cbd-9f5d-ae5044c2deb7" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:42:13.767" UserId="203" Text="I'm going to recommend the [Be Quiet Shadow Rock Top Flow SR1][1]. Be Quiet, like Noctua, specialises in making very, *very* quiet CPU coolers. The advantage of this particular cooler is that it also helps keep the motherboard components cool. Pulling air down greatly improves airflow around the motherboard. It's also more compact than the D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three air coolers should be more quiet than the water coolers: The need for a pump in addition to fans negates the advantage of slower spinning fans. The amount of sound insulation in the case probably makes the difference negligible though. The H440 has some pretty good insulation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005ORAGLW/?tag=pcp0f-21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="948" RevisionGUID="79fde980-2f51-4bd3-8e8d-bfe43f04274e" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:50:02.023" UserId="65" Text="If your server has plenty of RAM, any popular brand of SATA SSD with sufficient capacity should be plenty for your use case (if your cache hit ratio is less than 99% you need more RAM).  In a properly configured database server, the data drive spend most of their time writing, not reading (because reads can be cached--writes cannot).&#xA;&#xA;You most likely want to use a mirrored set for redundancy (this would have applied to HDDs as well).&#xA;&#xA;Depending on the use case, you may want separate volumes for the tempdb and for log files (HDDs are usually fine for logs).&#xA;&#xA;When you need even faster performance, adding more drives to a RAID 10 volume will give it to you, up to the limit of what will fit in your case and attach to your controller(s)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="948" RevisionGUID="6c1ba06d-65e9-4ec9-84e1-4e53b4844324" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:56:06.467" UserId="65" Comment="added 180 characters in body; added 114 characters in body" Text="13 million rows is 500GB?!  You must have HUGE tables--that's 38KB/row!  You must mean 13 Billion rows or 500MB?&#xA;&#xA;If your server has plenty of RAM, any popular brand of SATA SSD with sufficient capacity should be plenty for your use case (if your cache hit ratio is less than 99% you need more RAM).  In a properly configured database server, the data drive spend most of their time writing, not reading (because reads can be cached--writes cannot).&#xA;&#xA;You most likely want to use a mirrored set for redundancy (this would have applied to HDDs as well).&#xA;&#xA;Depending on the use case, you may want separate volumes for the tempdb and for log files (HDDs are usually fine for logs).&#xA;&#xA;When you need even faster performance, adding more drives to a RAID 10 volume will give it to you, up to the limit of what will fit in your case and attach to your controller(s).  When you exceed that, you can switch to [Fusion IO](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusion-io) or similar ultra-high performance caching, or to external massive SAN RAID systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="779" RevisionGUID="d79c4495-76c4-48db-9140-40f684f1247e" CreationDate="2015-10-30T03:05:34.607" UserId="155" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning a storage device's life span, reliability, or other property. Use this tag by itself for questions about choosing a method of data storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="948" RevisionGUID="def9cd5e-b5d6-407c-9143-d5ce0487aef7" CreationDate="2015-10-30T03:06:27.820" UserId="65" Comment="added 571 characters in body; added 46 characters in body" Text="13 million rows is 500GB?!  You must have HUGE tables--that's 38KB/row!  You must mean 13 Billion rows or 500MB?&#xA;&#xA;I've been running a database that has grown from 500GB a few years ago to 1.5TB+ now.  If your server has plenty of RAM, any popular brand of SATA SSD with sufficient capacity should be plenty for your use case (if your cache hit ratio is less than 99% what you really need is more RAM, not more raw disk performance).  In a properly configured database server, the data drive spend most of their time writing, not reading (because reads can be cached--writes cannot).  If you have the money and time spent replacing bad drives is more important than cost, just get the one with the best warranty (though to be honest, I've used both cheap desktop and mid-range enterprise SSDs and had very similar failure rates).&#xA;&#xA;You most likely want to use a mirrored set for redundancy (this would have applied to HDDs as well), and possibly database mirroring as well (depending on your desired disaster recovery point and time).&#xA;&#xA;Depending on how hard you hit them, you may also want separate volumes for the tempdb and for log files (HDDs are usually fine for logs, though, as they do very little random access).&#xA;&#xA;When you need even faster performance, adding more drives to a RAID 10 volume will give it to you, up to the limit of what will fit in your case and attach to your controller(s).  When you exceed that, you can switch to [Fusion IO](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusion-io) or similar ultra-high performance caching, or to external massive SAN RAID systems, which can also use SSDs and scale pretty much as far as you have money for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="949" RevisionGUID="9b9f50d1-5e26-447c-8bdd-36481bf2c40f" CreationDate="2015-10-30T03:09:40.253" UserId="531" Text="Depends on your servers and your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, there's a few options with different levels of, well *practicality*. I'm suggesting samsung drives here since I've had decent experiences with them but your milage may vary - see this [specific kernel bug related issue][1], and their [TLC line seems to have had issues][2]. The flagship pro line is solid tho&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could go with the newer NVMe drives - they fit into m2 slots, but by happy circumstances they are electrically x4 cards. There's also native PCIe cards they're relatively exotic. Of course, you need m2 or spare pcie slots of the same size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Puget system has [a nice review][3] on what *seems* to be the fastest m4 drive available Samsung 950 Pro 512GB. in this specific case, a good solution would be to get a converter to install it to a x4 slot, and use one of two of them would give you pretty amazing speeds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wanted something a little less *exotic* and *newfangled*, the [850 pro][4] is about as fast as sata gets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.algolia.com/when-solid-state-drives-are-not-that-solid/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/199673-second-patch-for-ongoing-840-evo-ssd-performance-issues-being-prepped-by-samsung&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Product-Review-Samsung-950-Pro-512GB-M-2-Drive-725/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.anandtech.com/show/8216/samsung-ssd-850-pro-128gb-256gb-1tb-review-enter-the-3d-era" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="95b8d755-7363-4d5f-97fa-ce201b460af3" CreationDate="2015-10-30T08:38:08.873" UserId="638" Comment="4" />
  <row Id="3339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="935" RevisionGUID="74f00012-6284-4c82-b8e8-74d5bbaac307" CreationDate="2015-10-30T08:57:40.397" UserId="753" Comment="added 240 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy a Raspberry PI 2 B and install osmc on it.&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering which type (r/w speed) of Micro SD I should buy and which size (8, 16 ,32 go).&#xD;&#xA;My movies, pictures, etc are stored on an Nas and the Raspberry will be wired on the same LAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will try to be more precise :&#xD;&#xA;I will only stream to the raspberry from my NAS. Some movie than well be stream can be 20go in size.&#xD;&#xA;The purpose of the Mirco SD will be to allow OSMC to run as smoothly as possible on the Raspberry 2B." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="934" RevisionGUID="1d3c7201-66c1-4bfc-a036-670e6c6a4f9f" CreationDate="2015-10-30T09:33:11.920" UserId="543" Comment="added 146 characters in body" Text="I am at the end stages of choosing parts for my PC but am finding it quite difficult to choose a CPU cooler since there is so much to take in. Should I go for a standard CPU cooler (with fans), a fanless one or water cooling? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering either water cooling / fanless because they are both quieter than normal coolers. Would you recommend going for a water cooling system or a fanless cooler? My only concern with the water cooling is that if in some way it malfunctions, it might damage my other parts. Out of the three options I know they&#xD;&#xA;all have their positive and negatives but which one would you say is best? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU*** - Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard*** - Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - ***Memory*** - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage*** - Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case*** - NZXT H440 (Blue/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power Supply*** - SeaSonic X Series 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Budget:*** Around £720 pounds (the parts listed above total £670 so the cooler is in budget as long as it is under £60 or there about).&#xD;&#xA;### Edit: listening to all of the feedback, I have decided to go with the  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO as it seems to be the best option for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="cf56af92-203f-4bd1-a4cd-d858eec26292" CreationDate="2015-10-30T10:50:09.990" UserId="171" Text="Is there any hardware which can consume connection from 3G/4G SIM, LAN Ethernet cable, existing low range WiFi and can provide it as wifi access point and LAN, both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New WiFi from this hardware should have consistent access, regardless which underlying connectivity it uses. It would be better if it is portable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using WL722N as wifi range extender, but I need to start my desktop PC everytime, to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If its not possible in single device, recommend me combination of devices, with minimum cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3343" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="cf56af92-203f-4bd1-a4cd-d858eec26292" CreationDate="2015-10-30T10:50:09.990" UserId="171" Text="WiFi range extender with bult-in data card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="cf56af92-203f-4bd1-a4cd-d858eec26292" CreationDate="2015-10-30T10:50:09.990" UserId="171" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="761f5474-82c3-4843-a56e-3e4fc70af8d4" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:00:47.830" UserId="8" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="Is there any hardware which can consume connection from a 3G/4G SIM, LAN Ethernet cable, and/or existing low range WiFi and can provide a wifi access point and LAN?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New WiFi from this hardware should have consistent access, regardless of which underlying connectivity it uses. It would be better if it is portable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using WL722N as wifi range extender, but I need to start my desktop PC every time to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's not possible in a single device, recommend me a combination of devices, with minimum cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="947" RevisionGUID="4c45560f-c66e-4b62-a364-5e7f632a28e9" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:06:29.120" UserId="476" Comment="Clarified, added a price, removed restatement about the H440's airflow" Text="I'm going to recommend the [Be Quiet Shadow Rock Top Flow SR1][1] (£43). Be Quiet, like Noctua, specialises in making very, *very* quiet CPU coolers. The advantage of this particular cooler is that it also helps keep the motherboard components cool. Pulling air down greatly improves airflow around the motherboard. It's also more compact than the D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three air coolers should be more quiet than the water coolers: The need for a pump in addition to fans negates the advantage of slower spinning fans.&#xD;&#xA;The amount of sound insulation in your case probably makes the difference negligible though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005ORAGLW/?tag=pcp0f-21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="947" RevisionGUID="4c45560f-c66e-4b62-a364-5e7f632a28e9" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:06:29.120" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 203 edit id of 229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="3aa441b3-fd0f-455c-9c4d-4681d335c60c" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:36:49.953" UserId="171" Comment="country added" Text="Is there any hardware which can consume connection from a 3G/4G SIM, LAN Ethernet cable, and/or existing low range WiFi and can provide a wifi access point and LAN?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New WiFi from this hardware should have consistent access, regardless of which underlying connectivity it uses. It would be better if it is portable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using WL722N as wifi range extender, but I need to start my desktop PC every time to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's not possible in a single device, recommend me a combination of devices, with minimum cost?&#xD;&#xA;(Country : INDIA)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="04301688-c427-40f6-bac7-d30162d15f64" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:07:58.547" UserId="773" Text="I am in the process of building a &quot;chill chamber&quot; for electronic experiments &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; and as primary part for cooling it I am going to use a peltier element. This means though I need to get rid of probably around 150W, and my first thought for that was to use an older CPU cooler which had heatpipes, but unfortunately the contact area of the ground plate was smaller than the peltier element. I then turned to look what is available on the market, and its overwhelmingly much, and besides specs often not being clear nowhere I could almost never find specifications of the size of the contact plate/area (or whatever you call it). So for this special application I search for a cooling system with the following needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Contact area at least 40mm x 40mm&#xD;&#xA; * Mounting ability for 120mm fan&#xD;&#xA; * Fan must blow from the side&#xD;&#xA; * Of course best price for performance, price should not really exceed ~40USD/EUR&#xD;&#xA; * Heatpipes&#xD;&#xA; * If it has direct contact heatpipes, the typical gap between the heatpipes and the rest of the contact area metal may not be bigger than 0.2mm&#xD;&#xA; * Size (without fans) should not exceed roughly 150mm cube&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following feature might be nice, but need not to be included:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A fan (don't care about noise, can run at 4000rpm)&#xD;&#xA; * Possibility for push/pull fan mounting&#xD;&#xA; * direct heatpipe contact&#xD;&#xA; * all contact area copper&#xD;&#xA; * heatsinking fins copper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;well of course also for beer.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="04301688-c427-40f6-bac7-d30162d15f64" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:07:58.547" UserId="773" Text="CPU cooler for peltier cooling system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3357" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="04301688-c427-40f6-bac7-d30162d15f64" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:07:58.547" UserId="773" Text="&lt;heat-sink&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ebf5b475-7ce8-428f-b973-2801731d19dd" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:41:48.303" UserId="61" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and steam the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Memory**&#xD;&#xA;    - 4GB or more RAM &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - 500GB or larger disk &#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny.&#xD;&#xA; - **Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to steam 4k if possible from my windows box.&#xD;&#xA; - **HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Expansion**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD (of some type) upgradability&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card, however this is optional if it is a discount box I understand this is not always feasible.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA;    - BlueTooth would be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian id possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ebf5b475-7ce8-428f-b973-2801731d19dd" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:41:48.303" UserId="61" Text="Cheap, Quiet and upgradable Steam OS box" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ebf5b475-7ce8-428f-b973-2801731d19dd" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:41:48.303" UserId="61" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="454b9fd8-8f8b-4e8c-b68d-4f4ec21b5c99" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:39:59.600" UserId="61" Comment="added 163 characters in body" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Memory**&#xD;&#xA;    - 4GB or more RAM &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - 500GB or larger disk &#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny.&#xD;&#xA; - **Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to steam 4k if possible from my windows box.&#xD;&#xA; - **HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Expansion**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD (of some type) upgradability&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card, however this is optional if it is a discount box I understand this is not always feasible.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA;    - BlueTooth would be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian id possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself. There are 14 requirements so I think my options are limited, for example I have yet to find a 7.1 mobo. I am willing to compromise on some items if nothing fits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="954" RevisionGUID="999eca46-4217-4c48-a44d-32afcf4d5ad3" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:51:22.360" UserId="779" Text="Some hardware RAID devices [like this][1] have internal RAM cache of about 1 Gb in size (faster than any SSD and no care about wear), use supercapacitor to flush this cache to the non volatile memory in case of power loss and also can use connected SSD as additional cache. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such cards may be a good solution if your database has grown to multiple terrabytes in size so it is too expensive to place it completely on SSD with the required RAID redundancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.adaptec.com/en-us/support/raid/sas_raid/sas-7805q/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ca66852b-2073-4a7d-ad3c-32199353a6f4" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:52:41.950" UserId="61" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a motherboard that fits the requirements listed and (with a case/CPU/RAM) is *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - {Support for} 500GB or larger disk&#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny. For the Mobo it's CPU should be able to support a custom cooler that is quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - **Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to steam 4k if possible from my windows box. I would like this built into the mobo if possible.&#xD;&#xA; - **HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks on the mobo preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Expansion**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD M.2 upgradability would be nice&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card, however this is optional if it is a discount box I understand this is not always feasible.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA;    - Built in BlueTooth would be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian id possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3367" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ca66852b-2073-4a7d-ad3c-32199353a6f4" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:52:41.950" UserId="61" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Cheap, Quiet and up-gradable Steam OS compatible Motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3368" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="ca66852b-2073-4a7d-ad3c-32199353a6f4" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:52:41.950" UserId="61" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="f049e6be-faff-4e9c-b3b3-873fe476180d" CreationDate="2015-10-30T19:17:57.990" UserId="61" Comment="added 210 characters in body" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a motherboard that fits the requirements listed and (with a case/CPU/RAM) is *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - {Support for} 500GB or larger disk&#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny. For the Mobo it's CPU should be able to support a custom cooler that is quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - **Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to steam 4k if possible from my windows box. I would like this built into the mobo if possible.&#xD;&#xA; - **HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks on the mobo preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Expansion**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD M.2 upgradability would be nice&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card, however this is optional if it is a discount box I understand this is not always feasible.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA;    - Built in BlueTooth would be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian id possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself. I have modified this question to refer to only the motherboard, once that is chosen I will add a question for what case/CPU/RAM works best with it because they are quite dependent on the motherboard selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3373" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="38baa560-a353-44af-a1b7-7e7b455c5680" CreationDate="2015-10-30T19:32:27.070" UserId="61" Comment="deleted 31 characters in body" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a motherboard that fits the requirements listed and (with a case/CPU/RAM) is *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - {Support for} 500GB or larger disk&#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny. For the Mobo it's CPU should be able to support a custom cooler that is quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to stream 4k if possible from my windows box.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in USB 3+**&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Blue Tooth**&#xD;&#xA;    - Helpful as I can see a lot of input devices using BT in the future.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Surround Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks on the mobo preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Ability to upgrade**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD M.2 upgradability would be nice&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian id possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself. I have modified this question to refer to only the motherboard, once that is chosen I will add a question for what case/CPU/RAM works best with it because they are quite dependent on the motherboard selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="70dbfe41-802b-40c6-a2b5-5e5f4137f40f" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:42:27.183" UserId="476" Comment="added 106 characters in body" Text="I've been contemplating purchasing an HDD enclosure. However, they all seem to be ~$20 which is too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be &lt; $15 (Including shipping, not taxes).&#xD;&#xA; - Must support USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Must support SATA2 and backward compatible w/ SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Must be 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available in the USA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Support for SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Support for USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA; - Support for thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple drive bays&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2.5 inch drives as well as 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA; - An enclosure instead of an adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find anything at this price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3381" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="7b207a78-cd79-4d6a-aeb3-49a1c6e11602" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:14:28.210" UserId="279" Comment="added &quot;gaming&quot; tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="7b207a78-cd79-4d6a-aeb3-49a1c6e11602" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:14:28.210" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 61 edit id of 230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="8266a40d-ed3c-412d-9e4d-ff029b4f52de" CreationDate="2015-10-30T22:27:52.383" UserId="773" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="I am in the process of building a &quot;chill chamber&quot; for electronic experiments &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; and as primary part for cooling it I am going to use a peltier element. This means though I need to get rid of probably around 150W, and my first thought for that was to use an older CPU cooler which had heatpipes, but unfortunately the contact area of the ground plate was smaller than the peltier element. I then turned to look what is available on the market, and its overwhelmingly much, and besides specs often not being clear nowhere I could almost never find specifications of the size of the contact plate/area (or whatever you call it). So for this special application I search for a cooling system with the following needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Contact area at least 40mm x 40mm&#xD;&#xA; * Mounting ability for 120mm fan&#xD;&#xA; * Fan must blow from the side&#xD;&#xA; * Of course best price for performance, price should not really exceed ~40EUR&#xD;&#xA; * Heatpipes&#xD;&#xA; * If it has direct contact heatpipes, the typical gap between the heatpipes and the rest of the contact area metal may not be bigger than 0.2mm&#xD;&#xA; * Size (without fans) should not exceed roughly 150mm cube&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following feature might be nice, but need not to be included:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A fan (don't care about noise, can run at 4000rpm)&#xD;&#xA; * Possibility for push/pull fan mounting&#xD;&#xA; * direct heatpipe contact&#xD;&#xA; * all contact area copper&#xD;&#xA; * heatsinking fins copper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;well of course also for beer.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="958" RevisionGUID="0b465db4-0f05-4b07-866b-0de80b28156b" CreationDate="2015-10-30T23:34:48.527" UserId="781" Text="I'd like to know two things:&#xD;&#xA;- Max amount of RAM and&#xD;&#xA;- quickest RAM&#xD;&#xA;that goes into a MacbookPro current (2015 second half) version which I believe is called 2012 version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went to www.crusial.com where the suggested product for me was [CT3373650][2]. It is DDR3 PC3-12800 • CL=11 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.35V • 1024Meg x 64. Right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SIZE:&#xD;&#xA;Basically Apple says that 8GB is the most it supports. You can find many articles saying it supports 16GB no prob. Right. Does it support 32GB?&#xD;&#xA;Does it support [CT2KIT204864BF160B][1]? Which comes with similar specs if I'm right just it's 2048Meg x 64; which I believe is the same as CT2K8G3S160BM (just the first link is a marketing thing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SPEED:&#xD;&#xA;I was searching for same spec just faster (lower CL) ones so I ended up with these: CT2K8G3S1339M and BLS2K8G3N169ES4 which both seem to have same specs just with lower CL.&#xD;&#xA;I asked Crusial in chat and they said they do Not recommend these, they will not work. As of my knowledge If you put a faster RAM into your computer all it will happen is that the CPU won't wait that much: a RAM is always slower than a CPU is (let's say always for this example).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question if Crusial is right or wrong: will I be able to use CL 9 RAM in this computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heaven't found a 2X16GB faster so no example for that one...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Sorry for not putting up links: i Don't have enough reputation to do it.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct2kit204864bf160b&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch-and-15-inch%2C-mid-2012%29/CT3373650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="958" RevisionGUID="0b465db4-0f05-4b07-866b-0de80b28156b" CreationDate="2015-10-30T23:34:48.527" UserId="781" Text="What's the Most Amount and Fastest RAM into an Apple MacbookPro 13&quot; non-retina" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="958" RevisionGUID="0b465db4-0f05-4b07-866b-0de80b28156b" CreationDate="2015-10-30T23:34:48.527" UserId="781" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="943" RevisionGUID="f08bf707-47ce-4ab6-bef1-7ce120a39108" CreationDate="2015-10-31T01:46:37.457" UserId="476" Comment="deleted 32 characters in body" Text="This is a slightly more budget friendly option, which is according to the budget which was just edited in, the Noctua NH-D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This CPU cooler keeps temps pretty low, about 5*C higher on an i7-4770k than the NZXT Kraken x61 I mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NH-D14 is an air cooler available [here][1], for 56 pounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Is an air cooler, and therefore does not have the probability to leak&#xD;&#xA; - Is within the budget&#xD;&#xA; - Is colder than the 212 evo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA; - Not as cold as the Kraken x61&#xD;&#xA; - Looks ugly as heck&#xD;&#xA; - Is only 4 pounds lower than the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.quietpc.com/images/products/nh-d14-large.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="942" RevisionGUID="3db6bc21-af12-4136-87e1-de10ed96706f" CreationDate="2015-10-31T01:48:29.703" UserId="476" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="The question was edited with a budget after I posted this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something more fancy, something a bit quieter, and a lot colder, I recommend you check out the [NZXT Kraken x61][1]. I do not believe it fails very often, as it's been around for awhile and it's relatively popular, plus there are no negative reviews about the pump failing, so I'd say it's pretty safe. It is available for $140 USD on the official NZXT website. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get is from a 3rd party retailer $20 cheaper [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Variable pump speed (quiet when it needs to be)&#xD;&#xA; - A lot colder, good for overclocking and heavy load&#xD;&#xA; - Nicer looking (if you care)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - More expensive than the other option&#xD;&#xA; - Has the possibility to leak, though unlikely&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say it all depends on your paranoia and budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![NZXT Kraken][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/147-kraken-x61-liquid-cooler.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1165545-REG/nzxt_rl_krx61_01_kraken_x61_280mm_all_in_one.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SxdGZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="c3d44d05-1330-4d0b-bb45-83e93e0c9509" CreationDate="2015-10-31T01:55:34.750" UserId="476" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="I've been contemplating purchasing an HDD adapter. However, they all seem to be ~$20 which is too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be &lt; $15 (Including shipping, not taxes).&#xD;&#xA; - Must support USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Must support SATA2 and backward compatible w/ SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Must be 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA; - Must be available in the USA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Support for SATA3&#xD;&#xA; - Support for USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA; - Support for thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple drive bays&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2.5 inch drives as well as 3.5 inch&#xD;&#xA; - An enclosure instead of just an adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find anything at this price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="819" RevisionGUID="c3d44d05-1330-4d0b-bb45-83e93e0c9509" CreationDate="2015-10-31T01:55:34.750" UserId="476" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="HDD adapter with USB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="e8d4e62f-d3ca-47d6-a880-92df5cd237cd" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:08:21.377" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;scientific-instruments&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3400" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="469" RevisionGUID="dae961e0-69a1-4501-8a78-6eae649e10a2" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:10:22.083" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags; edited tags" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="959" RevisionGUID="da7c8324-d7a2-4f35-b992-b367125f9ea6" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:23:48.090" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="960" RevisionGUID="c237f47e-f627-4506-8ea9-7dac88d3a29d" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:23:48.090" UserId="155" Text="For questions concerning the physical or digital security features of a device. Do not use this tag for questions about specific security methods." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="961" RevisionGUID="ed41ee3a-85bd-471b-84b4-86df2846f61d" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:36:10.450" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="962" RevisionGUID="47da2e54-e3d8-4354-a4ec-722a8c09044d" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:36:10.450" UserId="155" Text="Systems that have some or all components embedded into the computing process instead of being separate — usually achieved with a single circuit board. Use this tag for questions about small, single-board devices. Do not use this if you can use a more specific tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="961" RevisionGUID="144e0f40-aa03-4e9d-9170-889d19a627cf" CreationDate="2015-10-31T04:56:57.207" UserId="155" Comment="added 324 characters in body" Text="The term _embedded systems_ covers a very wide range of computing systems, technologies, and devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of computer hardware, one of the most popular embedded systems is the Raspberry Pi since all of its essential components (CPU, RAM, etc.) are part of the circuit board itself (hence the term _single-board PC_)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="962" RevisionGUID="812621ee-abaf-4901-a520-b55329abd8fa" CreationDate="2015-10-31T05:46:48.267" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body" Text="Systems that have some or all components embedded into the computing process instead of being separate — usually achieved with a single circuit board. Use this tag for questions about small, single-board devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="943" RevisionGUID="dc250546-2566-417c-9f35-5ea6e6abda0d" CreationDate="2015-10-31T05:53:08.470" UserId="155" Comment="shrunk massive image" Text="This is a slightly more budget friendly option, which is according to the budget which was just edited in, the Noctua NH-D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This CPU cooler keeps temps pretty low, about 5*C higher on an i7-4770k than the NZXT Kraken x61 I mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NH-D14 is an air cooler available [here][1], for 56 pounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Is an air cooler, and therefore does not have the probability to leak&#xD;&#xA; - Is within the budget&#xD;&#xA; - Is colder than the 212 evo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA; - Not as cold as the Kraken x61&#xD;&#xA; - Looks ugly as heck&#xD;&#xA; - Is only 4 pounds lower than the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.imgur.com/BBr5an2.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3408" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="cd528536-2562-4c05-8c32-bdd409bb338d" CreationDate="2015-10-31T05:57:26.623" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="963" RevisionGUID="ed9cc0b7-d534-497b-bb09-090200d1733c" CreationDate="2015-10-31T05:59:47.270" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="964" RevisionGUID="d7e10b5d-b36f-415d-b227-7e86844932f7" CreationDate="2015-10-31T05:59:47.270" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware that takes input via a touch-responsive display. Do not use this tag along with the [smartphones] tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="965" RevisionGUID="8039f26c-46a4-45ec-a092-3216dc3f2da2" CreationDate="2015-10-31T06:05:39.633" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="966" RevisionGUID="bc4bb591-079a-4a0d-bad0-f39a0d896da7" CreationDate="2015-10-31T06:05:39.633" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that are controlled via a smartphone or tablet. Do not use this tag with or in place of the [smartphones] or [tablet] tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="964" RevisionGUID="1c564832-c640-4bc8-b246-238a6babde18" CreationDate="2015-10-31T06:11:18.557" UserId="155" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware that takes input via a touch-responsive display. Do not use this tag along with the [smartphones] or [tablet] tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="943" RevisionGUID="0fee97a3-9801-45f3-82a9-f81f0c7b43bc" CreationDate="2015-10-31T11:47:37.293" UserId="476" Comment="Re-added smaller image, without massive levels of poorly done lossy compression..." Text="This is a slightly more budget friendly option, which is according to the budget which was just edited in, the Noctua NH-D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This CPU cooler keeps temps pretty low, about 5*C higher on an i7-4770k than the NZXT Kraken x61 I mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NH-D14 is an air cooler available [here][1], for 56 pounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Is an air cooler, and therefore does not have the probability to leak&#xD;&#xA; - Is within the budget&#xD;&#xA; - Is colder than the 212 evo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA; - Not as cold as the Kraken x61&#xD;&#xA; - Looks ugly as heck&#xD;&#xA; - Is only 4 pounds lower than the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcp0f-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/OsRhs.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="968" RevisionGUID="463698d4-be66-4b25-8cfa-78dfeb70376e" CreationDate="2015-10-31T13:00:09.970" UserId="789" Text="I was hoping someone would be able to recommend which Intel skylake CPU will give me longest battery life? m3, m5 or m7?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a uni student, thinking about buying a Surface Pro 4 (or clone from Lenovo Miix 700, Dell XPS 12, HP Spectre x2, etc) and main tasks will be word processing, web surfing and email, downloading and watching lectures, youtube.  I am planning on making the purchase in december.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning on optimising Windows 10 to give me longest battery life... and need help with selection of CPU when making Surface Pro 4 (or clone) purchase.  I am planning on 8gb RAM and 256gb ssd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I please get some opinions? Which m3/m5/m7 Intel Skylake CPU is best optimised for battery life, when win 10 is optimised for battery life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any recommendations on how to optimise MS win 10 for battery life will be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="968" RevisionGUID="463698d4-be66-4b25-8cfa-78dfeb70376e" CreationDate="2015-10-31T13:00:09.970" UserId="789" Text="which intel skylake cpu will give me longest battery life ? m3, m5 or m7?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3422" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="968" RevisionGUID="463698d4-be66-4b25-8cfa-78dfeb70376e" CreationDate="2015-10-31T13:00:09.970" UserId="789" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3426" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="944" RevisionGUID="aa58ff07-21cb-4fd1-aab7-5f4bddbd3f93" CreationDate="2015-10-31T16:05:45.320" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="As an alternative to @rubyjunk, there is a similar water cooler made by corsair that includes usb control for only $100: the [H100i](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have personally had a H100i on an overclocked FX-8350 (125w TDP), and the maximum temperature I've seen has been 40 degrees. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did have the 212 Evo previously, but I found that it got unreasonably hot on my rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/nGVIu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="944" RevisionGUID="aa58ff07-21cb-4fd1-aab7-5f4bddbd3f93" CreationDate="2015-10-31T16:05:45.320" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 54, 57 edit id of 232" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="947" RevisionGUID="c1dbc663-9648-45c6-bcac-f523b3d1d822" CreationDate="2015-10-31T16:05:48.107" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="I'm going to recommend the [Be Quiet Shadow Rock Top Flow SR1][1] (£43). Be Quiet, like Noctua, specialises in making very, *very* quiet CPU coolers. The advantage of this particular cooler is that it also helps keep the motherboard components cool. Pulling air down greatly improves airflow around the motherboard. It's also more compact than the D14.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three air coolers should be more quiet than the water coolers: The need for a pump in addition to fans negates the advantage of slower spinning fans.&#xD;&#xA;The amount of sound insulation in your case probably makes the difference negligible though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005ORAGLW/?tag=pcp0f-21&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6z0XV.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="947" RevisionGUID="c1dbc663-9648-45c6-bcac-f523b3d1d822" CreationDate="2015-10-31T16:05:48.107" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 54, 57 edit id of 231" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="f2eaa86c-ca02-4f31-b706-5a8e369bec3c" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:17:48.210" UserId="61" Comment="spelling" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a motherboard that fits the requirements listed and (with a case/CPU/RAM) is *close to* 400 USD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xD;&#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xD;&#xA;    - {Support for} 500GB or larger disk&#xD;&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xD;&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xD;&#xA; - **Additional**&#xD;&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xD;&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny. For the Mobo it's CPU should be able to support a custom cooler that is quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xD;&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to stream 4k if possible from my windows box.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in HDMI 2.0**&#xD;&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in USB 3+**&#xD;&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Blue Tooth**&#xD;&#xA;    - Helpful as I can see a lot of input devices using BT in the future.&#xD;&#xA; - **Built in Surround Sound**&#xD;&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks on the mobo preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - **Ability to upgrade**&#xD;&#xA;    - SSD M.2 upgradability would be nice&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card.&#xD;&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian if possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself. I have modified this question to refer to only the motherboard, once that is chosen I will add a question for what case/CPU/RAM works best with it because they are quite dependent on the motherboard selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="971" RevisionGUID="729ffa8a-852f-491e-921a-cb7cad529950" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:31:52.103" UserId="279" Text="I'm looking for some headphones. They will be primarily used for making music at home, as well as occasionally being used for live music. They will also be used quite a bit for just general home use. (listening to music, playing games, watching movies, etc.) I have been using a friend's Bose qc-15's for a while, and I only have two major complaints with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. They don't feel super durable. I wouldn't call them flimsy, but the don't seem super rugged either. I have broken plenty of cheap earbuds in the past, and I want to make sure my next purchase lasts me a long time. There are small children in my house that don't have the same respect for expensive electronics as I do, so the more rugged the better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mandatory noise-cancelling. I can't use them without using the noise-cancelling, so the require batteries. I'm on my computer listening to music a lot, so I feel like I'm constantly shoving new batteries into this pair of headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I'm looking to get my own pair. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Over-ear, not earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. I don't really even care if they look nice, I just want to know that they will last several years or longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **No** batteries required. Optional use of batteries would also be OK, (For example, optional noise-cancelling) but I don't really care if they're noise cancelling or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Noise reducing, not cancelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This should go without saying, but must support stereo, and have 1/8 in. audio plugin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - In the $80-$120 range. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High-quality sound. I realize that I'm not going to get studio-quality for only $100, but I'd like the highest quality possible while still staying on budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Not necessary, but would be nice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Replaceable parts. This goes back to the whole durability thing, because it would be nice to just replace the part that breaks if something were to happen to them. I'm sure that I wouldn't be able to replace all of it, so if it was just the auxiliary cable that was replaceable, that would still be awesome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="971" RevisionGUID="729ffa8a-852f-491e-921a-cb7cad529950" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:31:52.103" UserId="279" Text="Durable headphones that don't need a battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="971" RevisionGUID="729ffa8a-852f-491e-921a-cb7cad529950" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:31:52.103" UserId="279" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="b3089c46-6405-4667-9f2a-9452c8d2da79" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:43:46.537" UserId="787" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for an aging 15.6&quot; Dell laptop, and as I had a good experience with it, I tried to remain loyal to Dell. The Dell laptop which fits my requirements the best would be a Dell Inspiron 5548 or 5558, with an i7-5500U CPU and 8 GB RAM, and a 2 or 4 GB dedicated graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern is the low resolution of the display. A 768 vertical resolution is just too low for my tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking at the following specifics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- computational power at about the same level as the Dell Inspiron 55548/5558 presented above (i7-5500, 8 GB Ram)&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated graphics card. The GeForce 920M in the Dell 5558 is more than good enough, I don't need any heavy-duty gaming card, I just had bad experiences with integrated graphics cards and I want to have a dedicated one, even if low-spec.&#xD;&#xA;- price category similar to the Dell 5558. It can be slightly more, but not by orders of magnitude, of course.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery. I tend to use it as a desktop computer for extended time periods, I don't want to waste my battery life-cycles during this time. Or was it an issue only for older batteries that using them while plugged in the mains significantly reduced their total lifetime?&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inch display&#xD;&#xA;- At least a vertical resolution of 800 pixels. (as such displays are no longer produced, I guess it will boil down to a 1920 x 1080 screen)&#xD;&#xA;- I guess there is no modern laptop without HDMI and without any Wifi, so I don't know if I even had to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;- A screen which is not too dark. My old screen was slightly above 230 cd/m², I don't want any screen which is much darker.&#xD;&#xA;- Availability in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Very important**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CD/DVD drive. I need that a lot, and I don't want to carry around an external drive all the time.&#xD;&#xA;- integrated Webcam. Doesn't have to be good, it just has to exist.&#xD;&#xA;- VGA. I sometimes need to use older projectors which only have VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi on/off button.&#xD;&#xA;- A case which doesn't bend or fall apart when carrying it around in a bag.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell, but mostly out of subjective reasons&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen, but it seems hard to get one for laptops in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issues which kept me from buying a Dell 5548 or 5558 was the 768 vertical resolution of the display, and the lack of an optical drive in case of the 5548, and I also didn't like the lack of VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I could find was a `Lenovo Ideapad Z51 70`, but two things put me off: the battery is not removable, and the screen brightness is quite poor at only 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative I found performance-wise was an `asus F550jx`, but it is very hard to find any information about them on-line, as the Asus naming conventions don't seem to be very friendly. It also seems to lack a removable battery.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="b3089c46-6405-4667-9f2a-9452c8d2da79" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:43:46.537" UserId="787" Text="A good alternative for a Dell 5558" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="b3089c46-6405-4667-9f2a-9452c8d2da79" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:43:46.537" UserId="787" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="d81f387f-7046-446c-a417-c110f6dbd9ab" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:51:56.847" UserId="787" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for an aging 15.6&quot; Dell laptop, and as I had a good experience with it, I tried to remain loyal to Dell. The Dell laptop which fits my requirements the best would be a Dell Inspiron 5548 or 5558, with an i7-5500U CPU and 8 GB RAM, and a 2 or 4 GB dedicated graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern is the low resolution of the display. A 768 vertical resolution is just too low for my tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking at the following specifics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- computational power at about the same level as the Dell Inspiron 55548/5558 presented above (i7-5500, 8 GB Ram)&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated graphics card. The GeForce 920M in the Dell 5558 is more than good enough, I don't need any heavy-duty gaming card, I just had bad experiences with integrated graphics cards and I want to have a dedicated one, even if low-spec.&#xD;&#xA;- price category similar to the Dell 5558. It can be slightly more, but not by orders of magnitude, of course.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery. I tend to use it as a desktop computer for extended time periods, I don't want to waste my battery life-cycles during this time. Or was it an issue only for older batteries that using them while plugged in the mains significantly reduced their total lifetime?&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inch display&#xD;&#xA;- At least a vertical resolution of 800 pixels. (as such displays are no longer produced, I guess it will boil down to a 1920 x 1080 screen)&#xD;&#xA;- I guess there is no modern laptop without HDMI and without any Wifi, so I don't know if I even had to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;- A screen which is not too dark. My old screen was slightly above 230 cd/m², I don't want any screen which is much darker.&#xD;&#xA;- Availability in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Very important**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CD/DVD drive. I need that a lot, and I don't want to carry around an external drive all the time.&#xD;&#xA;- integrated Webcam. Doesn't have to be good, it just has to exist.&#xD;&#xA;- VGA. I sometimes need to use older projectors which only have VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi on/off button.&#xD;&#xA;- A case which doesn't bend or fall apart when carrying it around in a bag.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell, but mostly out of subjective reasons&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen, but it seems hard to get one for laptops in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably an SSHD by default, so I don't have to replace it if it only comes with a simple hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issues which kept me from buying a Dell 5548 or 5558 was the 768 vertical resolution of the display, and the lack of an optical drive in case of the 5548, and I also didn't like the lack of VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I could find was a `Lenovo Ideapad Z51 70`, but two things put me off: the battery is not removable, and the screen brightness is quite poor at only 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative I found performance-wise was an `asus F550jx`, but it is very hard to find any information about them on-line, as the Asus naming conventions don't seem to be very friendly. It also seems to lack a removable battery.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="ddff484b-60af-48a4-8697-972f37102506" CreationDate="2015-10-31T19:03:08.673" UserId="787" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for an aging 15.6&quot; Dell laptop, and as I had a good experience with it, I try to remain loyal to Dell. The Dell laptop which fits my requirements the best would be a Dell Inspiron 5548 or 5558, with an i7-5500U CPU and 8 GB RAM, and a 2 or 4 GB dedicated graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern is the low resolution of the display. A 768 vertical resolution is just too low for my tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking at the following specifics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- computational power at about the same level as the Dell Inspiron 55548/5558 presented above (i7-5500, 8 GB Ram)&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated graphics card. The GeForce 920M in the Dell 5558 is more than good enough, I don't need any heavy-duty gaming card, I just had bad experiences with integrated graphics cards and I want to have a dedicated one, even if low-spec.&#xD;&#xA;- price category similar to the Dell 5558. It can be slightly more, but not by orders of magnitude, of course.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery. I tend to use it as a desktop computer for extended time periods, I don't want to waste my battery life-cycles during this time. Or was it an issue only for older batteries that using them while plugged in the mains significantly reduced their total lifetime?&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inch display&#xD;&#xA;- At least a vertical resolution of 800 pixels. (as such displays are no longer produced, I guess it will boil down to a 1920 x 1080 screen)&#xD;&#xA;- I guess there is no modern laptop without HDMI and without any Wifi, so I don't know if I even had to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;- A screen which is not too dark. My old screen was slightly above 230 cd/m², I don't want any screen which is much darker.&#xD;&#xA;- Availability in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Very important**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CD/DVD drive. I need that a lot, and I don't want to carry around an external drive all the time.&#xD;&#xA;- integrated Webcam. Doesn't have to be good, it just has to exist.&#xD;&#xA;- VGA. I sometimes need to use older projectors which only have VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi on/off button.&#xD;&#xA;- A case which doesn't bend or fall apart when carrying it around in a bag.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell, but mostly out of subjective reasons&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen, but it seems hard to get one for laptops in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably an SSHD by default, so I don't have to replace it if it only comes with a simple hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issues which kept me from buying a Dell 5548 or 5558 was the 768 vertical resolution of the display, and the lack of an optical drive in case of the 5548, and I also didn't like the lack of VGA. The brightness also seems to be around 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I could find was a `Lenovo Ideapad Z51 70`, but two things put me off: the battery is not removable, and the screen brightness is quite poor at only 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative I found performance-wise was an `asus F550jx`, but it is very hard to find any information about them on-line, as the Asus naming conventions don't seem to be very friendly. It also seems to lack a removable battery.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="fcd38743-ccc5-4324-b1f3-6329a3a73c08" CreationDate="2015-10-31T19:32:12.363" UserId="787" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for an aging 15.6&quot; Dell laptop, and as I had a good experience with it, I try to remain loyal to Dell. The Dell laptop which fits my requirements the best would be a Dell Inspiron 5548 or 5558, with an i7-5500U CPU and 8 GB RAM, and a 2 or 4 GB dedicated graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern is the low resolution of the display. A 768 vertical resolution is just too low for my tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking at the following specifics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- computational power at about the same level as the Dell Inspiron 55548/5558 presented above (i7-5500, 8 GB Ram)&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated graphics card. The GeForce 920M in the Dell 5558 is more than good enough, I don't need any heavy-duty gaming card, I just had bad experiences with integrated graphics cards and I want to have a dedicated one, even if low-spec.&#xD;&#xA;- price category similar to the Dell 5558. It can be slightly more, but not by orders of magnitude, of course. The top specs of the 5558 cost approximately between 800 and 1000 Euros.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery. I tend to use it as a desktop computer for extended time periods, I don't want to waste my battery life-cycles during this time. Or was it an issue only for older batteries that using them while plugged in the mains significantly reduced their total lifetime?&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inch display&#xD;&#xA;- At least a vertical resolution of 800 pixels. (as such displays are no longer produced, I guess it will boil down to a 1920 x 1080 screen)&#xD;&#xA;- I guess there is no modern laptop without HDMI and without any Wifi, so I don't know if I even had to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;- A screen which is not too dark. My old screen was slightly above 230 cd/m², I don't want any screen which is much darker.&#xD;&#xA;- Availability in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Very important**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CD/DVD drive. I need that a lot, and I don't want to carry around an external drive all the time.&#xD;&#xA;- integrated Webcam. Doesn't have to be good, it just has to exist.&#xD;&#xA;- VGA. I sometimes need to use older projectors which only have VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi on/off button.&#xD;&#xA;- A case which doesn't bend or fall apart when carrying it around in a bag.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell, but mostly out of subjective reasons&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen, but it seems hard to get one for laptops in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably an SSHD by default, so I don't have to replace it if it only comes with a simple hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issues which kept me from buying a Dell 5548 or 5558 was the 768 vertical resolution of the display, and the lack of an optical drive in case of the 5548, and I also didn't like the lack of VGA. The brightness also seems to be around 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I could find was a `Lenovo Ideapad Z51 70`, but two things put me off: the battery is not removable, and the screen brightness is quite poor at only 200 cd/m².&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative I found performance-wise was an `asus F550jx`, but it is very hard to find any information about them on-line, as the Asus naming conventions don't seem to be very friendly. It also seems to lack a removable battery.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="973" RevisionGUID="fcda8d7b-e182-415a-9df1-e8360a8bd898" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:16:16.770" UserId="653" Text="I've been using a pair of [Senheiser HD215 headphones][1] for a good few years now, and they're great! They are in your price range (*$93.36, as of 32/10/2015*) and meet all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;They are over-ear headphones and are padded. They provide an extremely good fit and are adjustable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-504293-HD215-Headphone/dp/B003LPTB4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446325175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+Hd+215&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tIBbdm.gif&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Cable**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Admittedly the cable supplied is great, but it is *very long* (3 metres). If you want to, you can replace the cable (the cable itself is detachable) with a standard 2.5&quot; audio cable. It's like an old-style landline phone cable, and I've found that it can often get tangled if you aren't careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Build Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overall build quality of the headphones is excellent, but however is quite flimsy around the headband to the point that if you wanted to snap them in half, it would be an easy task to complete. I've not had other headphones of this quality before so I don't know how this compares to similar headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from this, other parts of the headphones are very sturdy. It's unlikely that I'll be having to buy a new pair for a long while yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="973" RevisionGUID="97403112-2425-4f4f-a437-90ba5bb399f5" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:36:24.700" UserId="653" Comment="added 1348 characters in body" Text="I've been using a pair of [Sennheiser HD215 headphones][1] for a good few years now, and they're great! They are in your price range (*$93.36, as of 32/10/2015*) and meet all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;They are over-ear headphones and are padded. They provide an extremely good fit and are adjustable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-504293-HD215-Headphone/dp/B003LPTB4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446325175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+Hd+215&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tIBbdm.gif&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Cable**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Admittedly the cable supplied is great, but it is *very long* (3 metres). If you want to, you can replace the cable (the cable itself is detachable) with a standard 3.5&quot; (1/8) audio cable. It's like an old-style landline phone cable, and I've found that it can often get tangled if you aren't careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thick, and can be quite stiff to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Build Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overall build quality of the headphones is excellent, but however is quite flimsy around the headband to the point that if you wanted to snap them in half, it would be an easy task to complete. I've not had other headphones of this quality before so I don't know how this compares to similar headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from this, other parts of the headphones are very sturdy. It's unlikely that I'll be having to buy a new pair for a long while yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD215s produce *very* high-quality sound, and the reviews for them prove that (see the link at the top of my answer). I've found them very good for classical music, but also dance &amp; electronic genres. The bass output is quite soft, but I find that it outputs *just* the right amount of bass for the sound output (so, a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Volume &amp; Distortion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No distortion whatsoever at any volume level, and these headphones are *very loud*. Obviously, the volume does not impact on sound quality. The cable does not have any type of remote/volume control on it, although you *might* be able to get hold of a 3.5&quot; passthrough cable that does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Replacement Parts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The foam padding &amp; the cable are the only replaceable parts of the headphones. I've never had to replace the foam padding on mine, so the foam padding has a fairly long life, the same can be said for the cable. That's 5 1/2 years without having to replace anything on the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Accessories**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 215s come with a large synthetic leather pouch (*which I lost a while ago so unfortunately I'm unable to give my view on it*). It can fit the headphones &amp; cables while disconnected from each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No other accessories are included." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="d2e6e203-f543-4c25-a2d5-6d35f7010ace" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:52:12.560" UserId="795" Text="Recently I started a study on long term context of a user. For that I concentrate on android Wear specifically; I am looking into heart rate sensors. My goal is to map the users heart rate over a extended period. After collection I would then focus on error correction and data reduction, resulting in an analysis specific to the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make this possible I would need 'continuous readings from a smart wearable'; meaning that i need at least a heart rate reading every 5-10 minutes. Since I am new to the smart watch/wearables I thought I'd ask a few questions here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I am looking into the Huawei watch, but this model does not offer an always on heart rate sensor. Would it be possible to produce an app that measures a pulse every 5 minutes and sends that data to an app on a phone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I've read that the first gen moto 360's readings were awful, but that the second gen has significantly improved on bringing accurate readings (every 5 minutes which is extremely useful for my research). What is your opinion on measuring heart rate data with a smart watch. Is it mature enough to use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Lastly, I am looking into all sorts of wearables. For example Fitbit, polar etc for more enthusiastic users. But the internet is huge, and I am looking for some opinions on what platform to choose. Currently I am looking into Fitbit, Polar (with a personal app for this project), and an android wear device (currently moto 360) If you have an opinion or a suggestion please do so in the following format: Model + brand ; programming interface (how easy is it to retrieve data) ; strong positives and negatives of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind I need to access the heart rate data. So if there isn't a platform available to receive the data besides a native app It won't be of use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for reading! Looking forward to the comments!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="d2e6e203-f543-4c25-a2d5-6d35f7010ace" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:52:12.560" UserId="795" Text="wearables for heart-rate registration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="d2e6e203-f543-4c25-a2d5-6d35f7010ace" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:52:12.560" UserId="795" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="19545722-2f62-41e7-84c1-d724e928e0d6" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:57:09.777" UserId="653" Comment="Removed fluff." Text="Recently I started a study on long term context of a user. For that I concentrate on android Wear specifically; I am looking into heart rate sensors. My goal is to map the users heart rate over a extended period. After collection I would then focus on error correction and data reduction, resulting in an analysis specific to the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make this possible I would need 'continuous readings from a smart wearable'; meaning that i need at least a heart rate reading every 5-10 minutes. Since I am new to the smart watch/wearables I thought I'd ask a few questions here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I am looking into the Huawei watch, but this model does not offer an always on heart rate sensor. Would it be possible to produce an app that measures a pulse every 5 minutes and sends that data to an app on a phone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I've read that the first gen moto 360's readings were awful, but that the second gen has significantly improved on bringing accurate readings (every 5 minutes which is extremely useful for my research). What is your opinion on measuring heart rate data with a smart watch. Is it mature enough to use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Lastly, I am looking into all sorts of wearables. For example Fitbit, polar etc for more enthusiastic users. But the internet is huge, and I am looking for some opinions on what platform to choose. Currently I am looking into Fitbit, Polar (with a personal app for this project), and an android wear device (currently moto 360) If you have an opinion or a suggestion please do so in the following format: Model + brand ; programming interface (how easy is it to retrieve data) ; strong positives and negatives of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind I need to access the heart rate data. So if there isn't a platform available to receive the data besides a native app It won't be of use. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="19545722-2f62-41e7-84c1-d724e928e0d6" CreationDate="2015-10-31T21:57:09.777" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by 795 edit id of 233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="ef850297-ea91-4886-bf6c-58f48dd4a435" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:05:48.350" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 328 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Recently I started a study on long term context of a user. For that I concentrate on android Wear specifically; I am looking into heart rate sensors. My goal is to map the users heart rate over a extended period. After collection I would then focus on error correction and data reduction, resulting in an analysis specific to the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make this possible I would need 'continuous readings from a smart wearable'; meaning that i need at least a heart rate reading every 5-10 minutes. Since I am new to the smart watch/wearables I thought I'd ask a few questions here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I am looking into all sorts of wearables. For example Fitbit, Polar etc for more enthusiastic users. But the internet is huge, and I am looking for some opinions on what platform to choose. Currently I am looking into Fitbit, Polar (with a personal app for this project), and an android wear device (currently moto 360). Please recommend one of these models. I would particularly like details of any programming interface (how easy is it to retrieve data) and strong positives and negatives of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I am looking into the Huawei watch, but this model does not offer an always on heart rate sensor. Would it be possible to produce an app that measures a pulse every 5 minutes and sends that data to an app on a phone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind I need to access the heart rate data. So if there isn't a platform available to receive the data besides a native app It won't be of use. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="ef850297-ea91-4886-bf6c-58f48dd4a435" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:05:48.350" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 328 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Wearables for heart-rate registration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="ef850297-ea91-4886-bf6c-58f48dd4a435" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:05:48.350" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 328 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3458" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="9dc1ce3c-7904-4110-9502-38c96e978923" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:13:09.460" UserId="8" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for an aging 15.6&quot; Dell laptop, and as I had a good experience with it, I try to remain loyal to Dell. The Dell laptop which fits my requirements the best would be a Dell Inspiron 5548 or 5558, with an i7-5500U CPU and 8 GB RAM, and a 2 or 4 GB dedicated graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern is the low resolution of the display. A 768 vertical resolution is just too low for my tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking at the following specifics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- computational power at about the same level as the Dell Inspiron 55548/5558 presented above (i7-5500, 8 GB RAM)&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated graphics card. The GeForce 920M in the Dell 5558 is more than good enough, I don't need any heavy-duty gaming card, I just had bad experiences with integrated graphics cards and I want to have a dedicated one, even if low-spec.&#xD;&#xA;- price category similar to the Dell 5558. It can be slightly more, but not by orders of magnitude, of course. The top specs of the 5558 cost approximately between 800 and 1000 Euros (£570 - £710, $880 - $1100).&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery. I tend to use it as a desktop computer for extended time periods, I don't want to waste my battery life-cycles during this time. Or was it an issue only for older batteries that using them while plugged in the mains significantly reduced their total lifetime?&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inch display&#xD;&#xA;- At least a vertical resolution of 800 pixels. (as such displays are no longer produced, I guess it will boil down to a 1920 x 1080 screen)&#xD;&#xA;- I guess there is no modern laptop without HDMI and without any Wifi, so I don't know if I even had to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;- A screen which is not too dark. My old screen was slightly above 230 cd/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, I don't want any screen which is much darker.&#xD;&#xA;- Availability in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Very important**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CD/DVD drive. I need that a lot, and I don't want to carry around an external drive all the time.&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated webcam. Doesn't have to be good, it just has to exist.&#xD;&#xA;- VGA. I sometimes need to use older projectors which only have VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi on/off button.&#xD;&#xA;- A case which doesn't bend or fall apart when carrying it around in a bag.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell, but mostly out of subjective reasons&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen, but it seems hard to get one for laptops in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably an SSHD by default, so I don't have to replace it if it only comes with a simple hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issues which kept me from buying a Dell 5548 or 5558 was the 768 vertical resolution of the display, and the lack of an optical drive in case of the 5548, and I also didn't like the lack of VGA. The brightness also seems to be around 200 cd/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I could find was a Lenovo Ideapad Z51 70, but two things put me off: the battery is not removable, and the screen brightness is quite poor at only 200 cd/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative I found performance-wise was an Asus F550JX, but it is very hard to find any information about them online, as the Asus naming conventions don't seem to be very friendly. It also seems to lack a removable battery." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="fefaa7af-813a-4075-9a5e-115981b0726e" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:14:58.330" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="First of all - I must say that I am not a hardware expert, I am just a simple programmer, and I also not sure this is the right place for this question (but title of site suggest it might be). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to read a lot about touch screen technologies - but I am a bit in lost here . So many technologies (resistive, capacitive, OLED, PCAP, - everywhere I tried to search explain **how** they work, but I would not find condition based recommendations)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to know what types of touchscreen technology would be best for an outdoor kiosk, that can be potentially exposed to direct sun, dust or small debris, as well as rain?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aim is to build some kind of a self-service &quot;kiosk&quot;, the kind you often see at a metro station, or train station, or even ATM's, but this particular one would have to be placed in totally exposed outdoor areas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already built a few prototypes, and totally excluded the IR types (any dust or debris on the edges would compromise performance). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen size would be around 17&quot;, and the preferred solution would be one that can be covered with 2-3mm tempered glass (meaning glass as top layer)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="421" RevisionGUID="fefaa7af-813a-4075-9a5e-115981b0726e" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:14:58.330" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="Touchscreen technologies for outdoor use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="895" RevisionGUID="0e91e725-8f73-4cad-b894-a633e4db1e10" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:39:09.700" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 13 characters in body" Text="I am not 100% sure about this particular model but this is very close:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Planar Helium PCT2785 27&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMuxpMk3gow&amp;t=0m38s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Dell 21.5-inches Multi-Touch Monitor with IPS S2240T][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Acer FT200HQL bmjj 19.5-Inch HD+ 1600 x 900 Touchscreen Monitor][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. [Dell S2240T 21.5-Inch Touch Screen LED-lit Monitor][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. [Planar PXL2430MW 24&quot; Widescreen Multi-Touch LED Monitor][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PCT2785-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B00937115E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446037748&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Planar%20Helium&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ipmart.com.my/main/product/Dell_21_5_inches_Multi_Touch_Monitor_with_IPS_S2240T_Dell_Warranty_421253.php?prod=421253&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-FT200HQL-bmjj-19-5-Inch-Touchscreen/dp/B00GOBD2WW&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2240T-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B00CTODKIO&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Planar-PXL2430MW-Widescreen-Multi-Touch-Monitor/dp/B0053YJZ4U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="893" RevisionGUID="f9633183-a253-4820-9045-c8029395b8a3" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:42:10.380" UserId="54" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="I have a colleague who needs an additional monitor during presentations in the meeting room (the main beamer screen is too far/hard to see).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a video from Microsoft I saw they used monitors that were somewhat 'laying' on the table. Does anyone know what type of monitor this is?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;video: https://youtu.be/Z2Fw6-2fCWU?t=89&#xD;&#xA;Watch @ 1:30&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SUWhr.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="958" RevisionGUID="7b45e025-8128-4ae3-a3d1-dd4d3e5826f8" CreationDate="2015-10-31T22:53:16.283" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'd like to know two things:&#xD;&#xA;- Max amount of RAM and&#xD;&#xA;- quickest RAM&#xD;&#xA;that goes into a MacbookPro current (2015 second half) version which I believe is called 2012 version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went to www.crucial.com where the suggested product for me was [CT3373650][2]. It is DDR3 PC3-12800 • CL=11 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.35V • 1024Meg x 64. Right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SIZE:&#xD;&#xA;Basically Apple says that 8GB is the most it supports. You can find many articles saying it supports 16GB no prob. Right. Does it support 32GB?&#xD;&#xA;Does it support [CT2KIT204864BF160B][1]? Which comes with similar specs if I'm right just it's 2048Meg x 64; which I believe is the same as CT2K8G3S160BM (just the first link is a marketing thing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SPEED:&#xD;&#xA;I was searching for same spec just faster (lower CL) ones so I ended up with these: CT2K8G3S1339M and BLS2K8G3N169ES4 which both seem to have same specs just with lower CL.&#xD;&#xA;I asked Crucial in chat and they said they do Not recommend these, they will not work. As of my knowledge If you put a faster RAM into your computer all it will happen is that the CPU won't wait that much: a RAM is always slower than a CPU is (let's say always for this example).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question if Crucial is right or wrong: will I be able to use CL 9 RAM in this computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't found a 2X16GB faster so no example for that one...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Sorry for not putting up links. I don't have enough reputation to do it.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct2kit204864bf160b&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch-and-15-inch%2C-mid-2012%29/CT3373650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="938" RevisionGUID="8b7b3448-a0bb-411d-a616-8a489983561a" CreationDate="2015-10-31T23:02:42.370" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="975" RevisionGUID="3b3f1dba-1317-4b55-adcf-9fb77a914587" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:46:37.387" UserId="203" Text="Honestly it won't make much of a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While they are clocked differently, all of the core M chips (and indeed, all modern CPUs) are designed to throttle down when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The exact voltage and frequency depends on binning, so the higher tier chips could have a slight advantage, but it's negligible compared to usage by screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you *really* wanted to optimise for battery life, you can always try lowering the voltage. The stock settings are usually too high. Note that this may void your warranty though, so be sure to ask the OEM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="968" RevisionGUID="7a2908e7-b444-4fee-87bc-3ceec32bfd01" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:50:44.383" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="I was hoping someone would be able to recommend which Intel skylake CPU will give me longest battery life? m3, m5 or m7?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a uni student, thinking about buying a Surface Pro 4 (or clone from Lenovo Miix 700, Dell XPS 12, HP Spectre x2, etc) and main tasks will be word processing, web surfing and email, downloading and watching lectures, youtube.  I am planning on making the purchase in december.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning on optimising Windows 10 to give me longest battery life... and need help with selection of CPU when making Surface Pro 4 (or clone) purchase.  I am planning on 8gb RAM and 256gb ssd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I please get some opinions? Which m3/m5/m7 Intel Skylake CPU is best optimised for battery life, when win 10 is optimised for battery life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any recommendations on how to optimise MS win 10 for battery life will be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="fa65312a-5753-4dab-824b-f3b8cce3bf92" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:56:47.267" UserId="798" Text="I am looking to equip my car with some cameras and a recorder. The specs might sound a little James Bond when you read it, but I would like to get it running without Q from the MI6, or needing their funds. :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm okay with spending some more if the constraints require it, but if there is a cheap solution that's a little worse, that might be fine too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If something is unclear or underspecified, please let me know! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power supply:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The whole thing should run 24/7, so a low power profile would be good to not drain the car battery too much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cameras:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Best would be **two or three cameras** inside of the car, so they are protected and &quot;**hidden**&quot;, so not immediately visible. Small black box mounted on the back of the rear view mirror is okay too. &#xD;&#xA;* **Night vision** without extra light (only from street lamps, **no IR light**) would be really nice. Also highly dynamic, like reading the licence plate of a car that has lights on. Long ago I read CMOS is better suited for that than CCD, is this still the case?&#xD;&#xA;* Resolution should be recognize cars or persons in case something happens. Let's say anything that is between **5 and 20 meters** away should be sharp.&#xD;&#xA;* Is this possible with a fixed lens or does it need autofocus? If it does, best would be if it works without sending a signal like a focus grid. Same as the IR lights, I just don't want to tip off thiefs or whatever that there is a camera running.&#xD;&#xA;* Cabling should be simple, so best everything on **12 volts** and I think the cables to the recorder could get as long as 6-8 meters.&#xD;&#xA;* Image quality should be around **one mega pixels for &quot;normal&quot; 4:3 or 16:9** cameras. Or what would be even better, if it is **wide angle around 2-3 mega pixels**.&#xD;&#xA;* I thought about **two wide angle cameras** or four normal ones, so around 4-6 mega pixels in total.&#xD;&#xA;* **Monochrome** image is okay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recorder:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **No display** needed.&#xD;&#xA;* Data from all cameras should be stored **24/7 and maybe one week**.&#xD;&#xA;* Should **connect to the wireless network** while I am near home and record the data directly onto a home server and transfer all recorded data too.&#xD;&#xA;* **Data processing should happen on the home server** to reduce power consumption in the car, like which images changed at all or compression algorithms.&#xD;&#xA;* I thought about a **raspberry pi**, but only know the open circuit boards. If there is a version with full housing that would be perfect. **Or specialized recorder hardware**, whatever works.&#xD;&#xA;* If multiple cameras is too much for one recorder, multiple recorders might be good too so each can use shorter cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Should survive **shocks during car rides**, so a spinning disk might be bad, but with 3 images per second(?!) that should be around **10 tera bytes** of SSD?? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weather:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Not sure if the camera should be in the car or outside, one would need weather protection, the other something to work when the windshield is fogging.&#xD;&#xA;* Temperature is usually -10°C to 40°C here, but if the car parks longer in the sun, it could go up to 90°C?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this is too much for one question, I could also split it up?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="fa65312a-5753-4dab-824b-f3b8cce3bf92" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:56:47.267" UserId="798" Text="Long term car surveillance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="fa65312a-5753-4dab-824b-f3b8cce3bf92" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:56:47.267" UserId="798" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="971" RevisionGUID="f339e04a-f5cb-4c36-ba75-0f63527f2568" CreationDate="2015-11-01T01:49:54.990" UserId="279" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for some headphones. They will be primarily used for making music at home, as well as occasionally being used for live music. They will also be used quite a bit for just general home use. (listening to music, playing games, watching movies, etc.) I have been using a friend's Bose qc-15's for a while, and I only have two major complaints with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. They don't feel super durable. I wouldn't call them flimsy, but the don't seem super rugged either. I have broken plenty of cheap earbuds in the past, and I want to make sure my next purchase lasts me a long time. There are small children in my house that don't have the same respect for expensive electronics as I do, so the more rugged the better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mandatory noise-cancelling. I can't use them without using the noise-cancelling, so the require batteries. I'm on my computer listening to music a lot, so I feel like I'm constantly shoving new batteries into this pair of headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I'm looking to get my own pair. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Over-ear, not earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Durable. I don't really even care if they look nice, I just want to know that they will last several years or longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **No** batteries required. Optional use of batteries would also be OK, (For example, optional noise-cancelling) but I don't really care if they're noise cancelling or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Noise reducing, not cancelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This should go without saying, but must support stereo, and have 1/8 in. audio plugin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - In the 80-120 USD range. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High-quality sound. I realize that I'm not going to get studio-quality for only $100, but I'd like the highest quality possible while still staying on budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Not necessary, but would be nice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Replaceable parts. This goes back to the whole durability thing, because it would be nice to just replace the part that breaks if something were to happen to them. I'm sure that I wouldn't be able to replace all of it, so if it was just the auxiliary cable that was replaceable, that would still be awesome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="977" RevisionGUID="e3e7c364-c37b-418f-8843-5803b39c8ec4" CreationDate="2015-11-01T05:14:18.437" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="978" RevisionGUID="d537e1ab-90e0-4dfe-a56b-84a18f018182" CreationDate="2015-11-01T05:14:18.437" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that will be used to listen to, create, and/or play music. Do not use this tag if this is not one of the device's main purposes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="924" RevisionGUID="0f8cafb6-2579-4a85-9e7c-2723a5aef740" CreationDate="2015-11-01T05:34:00.727" UserId="155" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="For questions about networking switches of any kind. Do not use this tag for video/input KVM switches (see the [kvm] tag)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="973" RevisionGUID="8aa41649-1283-49c3-8db6-a49bbdcdd434" CreationDate="2015-11-01T08:09:26.497" UserId="653" Comment="edited body" Text="I've been using a pair of [Sennheiser HD215 headphones][1] for a good few years now, and they're great! They are in your price range (*$93.36, as of 31/10/2015*) and meet all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;They are over-ear headphones and are padded. They provide an extremely good fit and are adjustable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-504293-HD215-Headphone/dp/B003LPTB4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446325175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+Hd+215&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tIBbdm.gif&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Cable**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Admittedly the cable supplied is great, but it is *very long* (3 metres). If you want to, you can replace the cable (the cable itself is detachable) with a standard 3.5&quot; (1/8) audio cable. It's like an old-style landline phone cable, and I've found that it can often get tangled if you aren't careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thick, and can be quite stiff to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Build Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overall build quality of the headphones is excellent, but however is quite flimsy around the headband to the point that if you wanted to snap them in half, it would be an easy task to complete. I've not had other headphones of this quality before so I don't know how this compares to similar headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from this, other parts of the headphones are very sturdy. It's unlikely that I'll be having to buy a new pair for a long while yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD215s produce *very* high-quality sound, and the reviews for them prove that (see the link at the top of my answer). I've found them very good for classical music, but also dance &amp; electronic genres. The bass output is quite soft, but I find that it outputs *just* the right amount of bass for the sound output (so, a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Volume &amp; Distortion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No distortion whatsoever at any volume level, and these headphones are *very loud*. Obviously, the volume does not impact on sound quality. The cable does not have any type of remote/volume control on it, although you *might* be able to get hold of a 3.5&quot; passthrough cable that does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Replacement Parts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The foam padding &amp; the cable are the only replaceable parts of the headphones. I've never had to replace the foam padding on mine, so the foam padding has a fairly long life, the same can be said for the cable. That's 5 1/2 years without having to replace anything on the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Accessories**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 215s come with a large synthetic leather pouch (*which I lost a while ago so unfortunately I'm unable to give my view on it*). It can fit the headphones &amp; cables while disconnected from each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No other accessories are included." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="979" RevisionGUID="94df184c-b8a1-4a53-a097-d4f538ca55e3" CreationDate="2015-11-01T09:43:02.163" UserId="653" Text="The `CL` (`CAS`, or Column Access Strobe Latency) will be upclocked if it is too low. This means that even if you bought ultra fast RAM, your Macbook will slow it down so it can use the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Speed**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [Apple's Macbook Pro 13 configuration page for your model (MD101LL)][1], your Macbook Pro can officially take a maximum of **1600MHz** RAM. Sure, you can put in even faster RAM, but it will be downclocked to 1600MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found nothing that states it is able to use faster RAM. Still, 1600MHz is *pretty fast* and you generally won't notice the difference even if the Macbook was able to use faster RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Type &amp; Capacity**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple *officially states* that your machine can take a maximum of 8GB worth of DD3L modules, but however many vendors have found that the maximum RAM the machine can take is **16GB DDR3L**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No, it does not support 32GB.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Module Suggestions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There'll be absolutely no point in using RAM faster than 1600MHz or greater than 2x 8GB DDR3L modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [modules that Crucial suggested][2] are the correct ones to use, and the fastest your model will be able to support. If the Crucial Memory Scanner is available for OSX (I'm unsure if it is), then any RAM modules that it suggests to you are *guaranteed* to be compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro?product=MD101LL/A&amp;step=config#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch-and-15-inch%2C-mid-2012%29/CT3373650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="979" RevisionGUID="e11ce5da-06fd-463b-81d4-098d2a34841b" CreationDate="2015-11-01T10:01:40.473" UserId="653" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="The `CL` (`CAS`, or Column Access Strobe Latency) will be upclocked if it is too low. This means that even if you bought ultra fast RAM, your Macbook will slow it down so it can use the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Speed**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [Apple's Macbook Pro 13 configuration page for your model (MD101LL)][1], your Macbook Pro can officially take a maximum of **1600MHz** RAM. Sure, you can put in even faster RAM, but it will be downclocked to 1600MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found nothing that states it is able to use faster RAM. Still, 1600MHz is *pretty fast* and you generally won't notice the difference even if the Macbook was able to use faster RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Type &amp; Capacity**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple *officially states* that your machine can take a maximum of 8GB worth of DD3L modules, but however [many vendors have found that the maximum RAM the machine can take is **16GB DDR3L**][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No, it does not support 32GB.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Module Suggestions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There'll be absolutely no point in using RAM faster than 1600MHz or greater than 2x 8GB DDR3L modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [modules that Crucial suggested][3] are the correct ones to use, and the fastest your model will be able to support. If the Crucial Memory Scanner is available for OSX (I'm unsure if it is), then any RAM modules that it suggests to you are *guaranteed* to be compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro?product=MD101LL/A&amp;step=config#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.5-13-mid-2012-unibody-usb3-specs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch-and-15-inch%2C-mid-2012%29/CT3373650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="980" RevisionGUID="003deb44-84e1-49bd-8144-73fd5dc44df9" CreationDate="2015-11-01T13:21:42.430" UserId="8" Text="I'm looking for a USB microphone to create recordings of instruments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- be compatible with Windows 10 via USB&#xD;&#xA;- have appropriate frequency range (I want it to include as much of the spectrum as possible so I can edit as I need)&#xD;&#xA;- be reasonably cheap (I'm hoping to get it for under £20/$30)&#xD;&#xA;- be in shops in the UK, so I'm not paying overseas delivery&#xD;&#xA;- (obviously) produce the best quality recording possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points for easy setup, easy compatibility with Audacity, and lower prices. Now I'm sure I've missed some things, so yell at me if y'all want more info.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="980" RevisionGUID="003deb44-84e1-49bd-8144-73fd5dc44df9" CreationDate="2015-11-01T13:21:42.430" UserId="8" Text="What's a good USB microphone for recording instruments?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="980" RevisionGUID="003deb44-84e1-49bd-8144-73fd5dc44df9" CreationDate="2015-11-01T13:21:42.430" UserId="8" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="600" RevisionGUID="8132f133-4dfc-474b-814c-270aadf0ec6c" CreationDate="2015-11-01T18:35:50.250" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="I decided on the [Logitech G600 Gaming Mouse](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g600-mmo-gaming-mouse) (~$80 USD) as the replacement. This mouse supports Logitech's Gaming Software. I plugged it into my computer and it recognized the mouse without having to install any drivers, and I still had all my profiles from my old mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can have 5 DPI settings per mode and there are 3 modes per profile. The DPI range is 200-8200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse has 20 buttons with 18 of them being customizable (you can change all 20, but you have to have a button for left click and another for right click). There is also a function called &quot;G-Shift&quot;, which is like a second page of macros for the profile. This means that you can have 34 macros on this mouse per mode (you must have buttons dedicated for left and right click, plus one button has to have the G-Shift function assigned to it).&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://gaming.logitech.com/assets/47823/g600-gaming-mouse-images.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="600" RevisionGUID="8132f133-4dfc-474b-814c-270aadf0ec6c" CreationDate="2015-11-01T18:35:50.250" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 236" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="897" RevisionGUID="f1cde3bf-8df4-4fb1-9ee5-93f90ed9f468" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:00:52.727" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo, prettified link, clarified writing." Text="You could get better gaming mice for a 100 bucks but if you want all your technology running on one software I'd tell you to go for the [G602][1]. It's wireless but has a pretty huge battery life and about 11 programmable buttons, and it costs the same as the G600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g602-wireless-gaming-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gaming.logitech.com/assets/49411/5/g602-gaming-mouse.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="897" RevisionGUID="f1cde3bf-8df4-4fb1-9ee5-93f90ed9f468" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:00:52.727" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="979" RevisionGUID="223b9909-c736-4ed6-93a4-f465c7035f23" CreationDate="2015-11-01T20:07:10.657" UserId="653" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="The `CL` (`CAS`, or Column Access Strobe Latency) will be upclocked if it is too low. This means that even if you bought ultra fast RAM, your Macbook will slow it down so it can use the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Speed**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [Apple's Macbook Pro 13 configuration page for your model (MD101LL)][1], your Macbook Pro can officially take a maximum of **1600MHz** RAM. Sure, you can put in even faster RAM, but it will be downclocked to 1600MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found nothing that states it is able to use faster RAM. Still, 1600MHz is *pretty fast* and you generally won't notice the difference even if the Macbook was able to use faster RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop can *only* use CL11 RAM (*there's literally no relevant results when searching Google for CL10 RAM for this Macbook model*). This isn't surprising; this model isn't designed to be a workhorse; it can be compared to £300 Windows laptops- if you want something faster, you'll have to upgrade to a more expensive model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Type &amp; Capacity**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple *officially states* that your machine can take a maximum of 8GB worth of DD3L modules, but however [many vendors have found that the maximum RAM the machine can take is **16GB DDR3L**][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No, it does not support 32GB.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Module Suggestions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There'll be absolutely no point in using RAM faster than 1600MHz or greater than 2x 8GB DDR3L modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [modules that Crucial suggested][3] are the correct ones to use, and the fastest your model will be able to support. If the Crucial Memory Scanner is available for OSX (I'm unsure if it is), then any RAM modules that it suggests to you are *guaranteed* to be compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro?product=MD101LL/A&amp;step=config#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.5-13-mid-2012-unibody-usb3-specs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/macbook-pro-%2813-inch-and-15-inch%2C-mid-2012%29/CT3373650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="981" RevisionGUID="db68a67f-dd17-4ddf-bffd-acf4e3bc00ae" CreationDate="2015-11-02T00:39:50.243" UserId="155" Text="For that price you won't be able to get anything too great, but there are a few options still. I'll recommend the same mic I recommended to @JonasCz [here][1] a while back: the [Tonor USB Condenser Mic][2]. For being a small, cheap mic, it has great quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensitivity: -55dB to 2dB&#xD;&#xA;- Frequency response: 50Hz to 16KHz&#xD;&#xA;- Sound-noise ratio: &gt;36dB&#xD;&#xA;- Cord length: ~2m&#xD;&#xA;- Voltage: 1.5V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Tonor USB Condenser Mic][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this as a temporary mic and it easily gets the job done. But as @JourneymanGeek says, investing in a better mic (most people choose the SM57 as their first quality mic) and a small interface will be worth it assuming you'll be making use of this enough to warrant an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/173/155&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01142EPO4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8vhkl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="982" RevisionGUID="8ab4f571-c3a5-4bc3-8a0e-90809988c667" CreationDate="2015-11-02T05:21:36.777" UserId="784" Text="I'm currently choosing parts for my new computer. I'm doing a lot of image processing and some of my algorithms are parallelized. In my free-time, I'm additionally up for some gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current system, although already built in 2011, runs an [Intel Core i7-2700K](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/61275/Intel-Core-i7-2700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz) with 4 real cores (8 HT) and 3.50GHz base frequency. This guy still rocks and looking through today's CPU's kind of give me the feeling that physical limitations for faster machines are clearly visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After reading and looking through the prizes, I thought I found my favorite CPU for the next system, which is a [Intel Core i7-6700K 4GHz](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz?_ga=1.233340126.1977817799.1443741286), but then I saw [this comparison](http://wccftech.com/intel-skylake-s-core-i7-6700-k-benchmarks/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![compare](http://cdn.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Skylake_Cinebench-R15-635x355.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently, the [Intel Core i7-5820K with 6 cores](http://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz) (which is the 5th and not the 6th generation) is in many tests faster. Important for me is of course, that the CPU supports DDR4 memory, which it does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** Taking into account that the prize is the same for both processors, I would be glad if someone had a recommendation. I'm keen to hear whether the difference in architecture (Skylake-S vs. Haskwell-E) is somehow important for me. Probably there are other things I haven't considered." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="982" RevisionGUID="8ab4f571-c3a5-4bc3-8a0e-90809988c667" CreationDate="2015-11-02T05:21:36.777" UserId="784" Text="Which Intel CPU? 3.3GHz x 6 or 4GHz x 4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3498" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="982" RevisionGUID="8ab4f571-c3a5-4bc3-8a0e-90809988c667" CreationDate="2015-11-02T05:21:36.777" UserId="784" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="982" RevisionGUID="976599b5-8eb4-4508-b91d-b666f6704a4c" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:00:24.730" UserId="784" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm currently choosing parts for my new computer. I'm doing a lot of image processing and some of my algorithms are parallelized. In my free-time, I'm additionally up for some gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current system, although already built in 2011, runs an [Intel Core i7-2700K](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/61275/Intel-Core-i7-2700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz) with 4 real cores (8 HT) and 3.50GHz base frequency. This guy still rocks and looking through today's CPU's kind of give me the feeling that physical limitations for faster machines are clearly visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After reading and looking through the prizes, I thought I found my favorite CPU for the next system, which is a [Intel Core i7-6700K 4GHz](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz?_ga=1.233340126.1977817799.1443741286), but then I saw [this comparison](http://wccftech.com/intel-skylake-s-core-i7-6700-k-benchmarks/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![compare](http://cdn.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Skylake_Cinebench-R15-635x355.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently, the [Intel Core i7-5820K with 6 cores](http://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz) (which is the 5th and not the 6th generation) is in many tests faster. Important for me is of course, that the CPU supports DDR4 memory, which it does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** Taking into account that the prize is the same for both processors, I would be glad if someone had a recommendation. I'm keen to hear whether the difference in architecture (Skylake-S vs. Haswell-E) is somehow important for me. Probably there are other things I haven't considered." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="279" RevisionGUID="2d918549-526e-437a-9de3-8727115c8d90" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:34:18.963" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="I agree with Firepower and SEJPM that the Intel Compute Stick is the route to go for around $150 but if you are looking for a cheaper version of that, the MeeGoPad T02 is a great alternative for $79 (The Ubuntu Version) and around $109 (The Windows 8.1 with upgrade to Windows 10 Version)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both sticks have a Intel Atom Z3735f processor, 2GB's of Ram and 32 GB's of flash storage and connect through HDMI. In addition they have 2 full sized USB 2 ports, Wi-Fi B/G/N and Bluetooth 4.0. Finally they have a micro sd slot with support for up to 32 GB's of extra storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu Version: [here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Version: [here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of it][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Meegopad-Version-Compute-Storage-Bluetooth/dp/B011HPKYCK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Blomiky-Meegopad-Activated-Windows-Computer/dp/B00ZFJFOXY/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/YC8GA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="279" RevisionGUID="2d918549-526e-437a-9de3-8727115c8d90" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:34:18.963" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 57, 54 edit id of 239" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="52fe5d98-21ef-4edc-aeb3-086202374019" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:34:30.547" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="You might of heard of it, but the [Intel Compute Stick][1] is a very small PC running an Intel Atom processor (Atom Z3735F). The standard model has 32GB of flash storage and though it costs $150, it comes with Windows 10, which is nice even if you do plan on installing Linux. You can buy one [here][2]. I actually use this one.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;There are two versions of the Intel Compute Stick. The first has Ubuntu preinstalled, 1GB of ram, and 8GB of on board storage. The other has Windows 8.1 installed, 2GB of ram, and 32GB of on board storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883800004&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Fr5l2.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="229" RevisionGUID="52fe5d98-21ef-4edc-aeb3-086202374019" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:34:30.547" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 57, 54 edit id of 238" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="d7c0ba36-10bf-44cc-ba71-21817d7f33c6" CreationDate="2015-11-02T06:44:19.577" UserId="756" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="This question might seem weird at first, but I *do* mean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__I want to buy a good IPS screen for my laptop.__  &#xD;&#xA;This is not about price or compatibility, but about **quality**.  &#xD;&#xA;I want to buy _just screen, **not** the whole laptop_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Long story short&#xD;&#xA;In (most) modern laptops, screen is connected to motherboard using **Embedded DisplayPort connector**. **As I understand** (and according to my experience), there are **no vendor-specific variations**, just a few standard variants (namely 20, 30 and 40-pin connectors). It is just a plain DisplayPort interface with cheaper/smaller connector and added pins for backlight and power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What it means is that as of today, laptop screen compatibility question boils down do &quot;Does it (physically) fit (including connector)?&quot;, which is easily answered for example by looking at photo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically, choosing laptop screen should be almost the same as choosing external monitor.  &#xD;&#xA;Except one thing.  &#xD;&#xA;I have seen nothing like *&quot;AUO b156han01.2 IPS panel review&quot;*. **Have you?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Solution I want&#xD;&#xA;I basically want a **general** suggestion on how to find LCD panel of specific size, with specific (e.g. 30-pin eDP) connector, that has desired qualities (e.g. brightness of at least 300 cd/m²) and does not have problems like obviously uneven backlight or wrong colors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution &quot;search for laptop and then buy original panel&quot; will not do, same way as searching for preassembled PC with everything included will not do if you only need a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Edit&#xD;&#xA;A few days later, I suspect that my question is pointless.  &#xD;&#xA;There is no such market as &quot;generic screens for laptops&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;You often can by a laptop without HDD or RAM, but without display? I guess no.  &#xD;&#xA;So, chosing a laptop and only buying screen might be the only solution for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's hope I am wrong." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="a445cd25-092c-430d-a2ca-a9aa5180badd" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:26:58.937" UserId="803" Text="**Background**: Recently the motherboard of my 7 year old desktop PC died so I need to buy a new machine. The problem is I haven't been paying any attention to the development of hardware during those 7 years (and I never really got into hardware before that either) so I am now at a loss on what to buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I considered buying a preassembled PC, but the ones I saw within my budget had less RAM than I expected to see in a modern computer (only 4 GB) and I want at least twice as much. So I decided to have one custom built instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I intend to reuse the case as well as all the external stuff like mouse, keyboard and monitor. I would like my new computer to last 4-6 years and plan to mainly use it for gaming (Elder Scrolls, Fallout, League of Legends, Crusader Kings, indie games), but I may potentially also get a bit into programming or video editing. As far as games go, I'm happy to run them at 30 fps and medium graphics, but I'd like that to also be true for the ones I'll be playing 3 years from now. I don't need a big hard drive. My old one was 300GB and I never ran out of space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case it's relevant, I'm considering switching to Linux. And last but not least, the budget I'm aiming for is 500€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is there a good website where I can learn basic information about the various CPUs and motherboards that are currently on the market? Things like how an i3 is different from an i5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'm assuming that by now all CPUs on the market would use 64 bit architecture, so it's not something I need to worry about. Is that correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. What are the main properties I have to look for in a CPU? I read somewhere that Fallout 4 is going to require a quad core, so I'd like to get one of those just to be safe. But I have no clue what else to look for in a CPU. Is brand important or are AMD and Intell procesors virtually equivalent in quality these days?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. Someone told me that it's no longer necessary to get a GPU, because modern CPUs have become so good they can easily also handle the graphics. Is that true?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. When buying RAM, how important is the speed? Is there anything else I need to worry about? I'd like to have 16 GB, but I'm not sure if I can fit it in my budget. Is upgrading RAM as easy as buying another 8 GB stick and putting it in or is there something more to it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 6. Do I need to get a SSD or is an oldfashioned hard drive fine? How important is SATA3?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 7. Is motherboard choice still directly tied to CPU choice? If yes, are any brands known for afordable quality? If not, do you have any specific recomendations for a motherboard that offers solid quality for a decent price? If it turns out I really don't need a GPU I'll want one with an integrated graphics and sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's it for now. Thank you for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="a445cd25-092c-430d-a2ca-a9aa5180badd" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:26:58.937" UserId="803" Text="Need help buying new gaming PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="a445cd25-092c-430d-a2ca-a9aa5180badd" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:26:58.937" UserId="803" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="984" RevisionGUID="3e4ef796-527e-41e8-b29f-797c716afd10" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:27:36.730" UserId="737" Text="this could help you find your answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.bjorn3d.com/2015/08/intel-core-i7-6700k-review-skylake-falling/3/&#xD;&#xA;As you can seee for photo edition the 6700k is pretty good but not the best&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as you can see here &#xD;&#xA;http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the 5960x does beat it quite often then not but it's also 3 times the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot go wrong with the 6700k, the only noticeable advantage the 5820k has over670k is the memory bandwith which seriously quite high. Double actually." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="874" RevisionGUID="ca9541b2-3c39-4b80-a913-7179bffdbe17" CreationDate="2015-11-02T11:33:02.520" UserId="719" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="We had the same problem and found a somewhat creative solution by reactivating our old android-phones. We installed &quot;TeamSpeak&quot; on each of them and placed them in the childrens rooms. They connect via wlan to an old pc where TeamSpeak-Server runs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife and I also have TeamSpeak-clients on our cells - so wherever we are in the house - we can always hear them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I'm sitting at the computer I always have a TeamSpeak-Window at the 2nd monitor, so I can even see from where the noise is coming from." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3512" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="a7dcae91-4aca-4eb7-bbcf-3d33c7718179" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:53:43.727" UserId="715" Comment="Voiding a Chromebook's warranty" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis when it arrives or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points. (5 GHz would be nice to have but is not critical because 2.4 GHz works.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves. Even if I were to carry it in a backpack, I'm still unsure of how I would test-drive the ability to use a larger laptop in the somewhat cramped quarters of a bus seat.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch Android laptop would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told [tools by John Lewis](http://johnlewis.ie/) can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband. The price difference between my current flip phone plan and a smartphone data plan allowing tethering would likely exceed my budget.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="b8e374d9-b2d9-4cf8-9bd7-525b35f5dada" CreationDate="2015-11-02T14:18:28.420" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="932" RevisionGUID="0629151f-be1e-42e5-9dee-ca999e584c24" CreationDate="2015-11-02T15:07:56.950" UserId="1" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text=" * specific hardware that would enable you to perform a certain task&#xA;&#xA;&lt;!-- information-requests removed as per meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/345/1, at this point it's +5/-0 and 3/3 moderators agree --!&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="886af0be-0ebe-4c72-bd40-e6af0ffa51ec" CreationDate="2015-11-02T16:16:09.357" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3524" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="30b35c3a-762d-4de4-b503-81e9fc46535d" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:28:34.593" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3525" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="a8bc0eee-7e3e-4d6e-b18a-1a2729893456" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:29:55.383" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3526" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="bb1ece07-b0a0-4190-8996-3f1a2eaf3c1c" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:31:23.927" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3527" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="cf82201b-7051-4141-885c-3c39dc94836b" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:31:54.880" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3528" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="107" RevisionGUID="5760484b-2774-4fd2-a09b-895edfa5274f" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:32:33.123" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3529" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="330" RevisionGUID="56fbcf65-461a-4940-855d-e1ac8bb8193a" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:34:05.693" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3530" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="503" RevisionGUID="5160bf9d-c14e-485f-a893-f5c6242073c2" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:36:44.380" UserId="1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="54017af8-2f95-4ddd-aaee-923774ebd623" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:35:27.880" UserId="807" Text="I've been searching for a simple Blu-Ray player.  I've notice a lot of Blu-ray players are in the $60+ range, but also come with Wi-Fi/LAN capabilities, able play music, Netflix, all that stuff. I don't really want any of that. I just want to watch a Blu-ray movie and that's it for a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some things that would be ideal for me,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-USB (So I can connect to my laptop)(External Blu-Ray player)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I don't need it to write blu-rays, only read to watch movies (Hopefully drop the price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If a USB one for a lower price is not an option, a standard one the connects to a TV through HDMI will be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping for the $20-30 range if those even exist. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking a USB one would be cheaper, but the only ones I could find were ones that also wrote to Blu-Rays.  Which I'm guessing made them significantly more expensive. (I also don't know much about Blu-ray players and if they can even be decoded through USB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a nutshell, I just want to watch Blu-Ray movies for $20-30 (Or whatever you guys may suggest) =)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3533" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="54017af8-2f95-4ddd-aaee-923774ebd623" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:35:27.880" UserId="807" Text="Simple cheap blu-ray player" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="54017af8-2f95-4ddd-aaee-923774ebd623" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:35:27.880" UserId="807" Text="&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="7d9dd87a-94c9-4c82-85c8-443747efbd90" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:39:00.697" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 33 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I've been searching for a simple Blu-Ray player.  I've notice a lot of Blu-ray players are in the $60+ range, but also come with Wi-Fi/LAN capabilities, able play music, Netflix, all that stuff. I don't really want any of that. I just want to watch a Blu-ray movie and that's it for a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some things that would be ideal for me,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB (So I can connect to my laptop) (External Blu-Ray player)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need it to write blu-rays, only read to watch movies (Hopefully drop the price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If a USB one for a lower price is not an option, a standard one the connects to a TV through HDMI will be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping for the $20-30 range if those even exist. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking a USB one would be cheaper, but the only ones I could find were ones that also wrote to Blu-Rays.  Which I'm guessing made them significantly more expensive. (I also don't know much about Blu-ray players and if they can even be decoded through USB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a nutshell, I just want to watch Blu-Ray movies for $20-30.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="7d9dd87a-94c9-4c82-85c8-443747efbd90" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:39:00.697" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 33 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="5993ef15-4973-4c44-b5b3-8641ad589b03" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:26:42.960" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="765" RevisionGUID="66649705-da60-4e8c-8dad-04b4e7742891" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:27:59.393" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="989" RevisionGUID="c6b77459-6e26-47ce-a193-8f6bbf1d9c34" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:38:36.390" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="990" RevisionGUID="df5e0fe5-0c68-4d47-8466-0efe65940473" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:38:36.390" UserId="155" Text="POTS stands for plain old telephone service. For questions about phones or their underlying services making use of copper-looped landline wiring." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="991" RevisionGUID="d764ef12-c004-45e8-ae04-6085cc47ea55" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:39:21.520" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="992" RevisionGUID="c4275edf-7b82-4c41-aee3-6ab1705a08d0" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:39:21.520" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that display programmes transmitted via radio signals on a screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="312" RevisionGUID="3720a064-0a0b-4c04-9cd0-635dfb1e3eed" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:41:22.293" UserId="8" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="For questions asking for devices using, compatible with, or interfacing with, Apple's Mac OS X." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="993" RevisionGUID="5fddc890-0848-4a83-8b90-d1da9dc518a3" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:47:36.603" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="994" RevisionGUID="7eb32f58-36c6-46ef-b1b0-e6eba8436705" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:47:36.603" UserId="8" Text="For questions about cameras of any variety that communicate using IP, usually wireless." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="995" RevisionGUID="54bdc165-5fe3-45a9-adb6-1a9b248887e9" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:48:05.693" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="996" RevisionGUID="27b714ce-0e83-4c87-9412-8377e55ec67f" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:48:05.693" UserId="8" Text="For questions about the smaller sibling of the SD card, the microSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="997" RevisionGUID="062ce1d7-64ff-492c-811f-65c2f5469238" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:53:10.807" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="998" RevisionGUID="f5298b52-4560-4d3d-90f0-d29b33282404" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:53:10.807" UserId="8" Text="For questions about any type of memory card (i.e. not USB memory drives): SD, SDHC, SDXC, microSD, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3550" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="926" RevisionGUID="9bb2d493-7597-4f62-b589-ea14cc5a7163" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:53:59.813" UserId="8" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware used to enable networked inter-device communication." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="999" RevisionGUID="43f4a293-296b-4c67-9fc2-896f73441587" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:54:45.113" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1000" RevisionGUID="988ca74f-1cd3-461a-89ad-1039858b08f2" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:54:45.113" UserId="8" Text="For questions about hardware that can be used to perform rendering tasks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1001" RevisionGUID="936f58eb-95b3-480f-adb9-2f874b3b6e54" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:55:24.473" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3554" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1002" RevisionGUID="3836e142-f11c-4392-91b1-9aa0695f8f58" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:55:24.473" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices involved in home security systems. This is a broad tag, consider using a more specific tag as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1003" RevisionGUID="0623d41b-bc0d-4425-abd3-0ea30feca088" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:56:16.740" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1004" RevisionGUID="b29af4cb-41c2-40a5-8ccf-a645226194fa" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:56:16.740" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices made to be easier, more efficient, or healthier for humans to use than their regular counterparts." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="928" RevisionGUID="6c3b1dc7-825b-472f-be95-258ac5e7c730" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:57:14.073" UserId="8" Comment="added 112 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that make use of the link-layer protocol within the TCP/IP framework to communicate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1005" RevisionGUID="28a15142-f0ee-4565-a0ee-e3eb3d1c0418" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:57:48.833" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1006" RevisionGUID="cb624ced-c30f-471b-a4b8-e20c3dd09f90" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:57:48.833" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices relating to DVDs. This is a broad tag; consider also using a more specific tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1007" RevisionGUID="fa21c431-2c98-4641-9eee-7d65d0d42bd1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:59:13.210" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1008" RevisionGUID="88bae408-4428-4b47-88b1-6d086f15a636" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:59:13.210" UserId="8" Text="For questions about base or docking stations for other devices. You should also use a device-specific tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1009" RevisionGUID="2b1f43e9-ca32-409e-a558-51ee5d181e7d" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:59:59.627" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1010" RevisionGUID="3ef541fe-5829-462c-9ed0-00ab46295595" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:59:59.627" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that relate to Blu-Ray discs. This is a broad tag; consider also using a more specific tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1011" RevisionGUID="a9741143-ee29-4483-b4e3-cff91851978f" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:00:39.730" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1012" RevisionGUID="e6cbdabc-e60e-495a-96bf-b04c43670772" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:00:39.730" UserId="8" Text="Use when you're asking about the quality of audio output a device produces." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1013" RevisionGUID="5c968e33-6cdf-4b0a-904c-8d7431ddf7cd" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:02:08.703" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1014" RevisionGUID="a8367ade-2136-4667-a0e1-d4773353b9b2" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:02:08.703" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use pressure changes in the environment to record sound to a digital format." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1015" RevisionGUID="3e1b397e-af60-405f-b2f0-097a1afbb34e" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:02:44.507" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1016" RevisionGUID="b2a7dc68-a4a5-455d-82fb-c8fb03e9a356" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:02:44.507" UserId="8" Text="For questions about integrated or portable cameras designed to interface with a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3570" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1017" RevisionGUID="bb51a049-e5ca-4aa5-993b-d123b5c33885" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:19:05.980" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1018" RevisionGUID="84f6df5c-c75b-4700-b010-1a352e6e511f" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:19:05.980" UserId="155" Text="RAID stands for redundant array of independent disks. For questions about drive configurations that involve data redundancy via striping, mirroring, or parity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="208" RevisionGUID="a32252d6-c106-4711-a296-0f6e63dd3bc5" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:51:48.890" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3575" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="208" RevisionGUID="410e6390-1102-4956-b7bf-0a7cdfe17678" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:02:32.193" UserId="155" Comment="product has been officially announced with reliable info" Text="The upcoming Moto X Force is the phone that sounds like the perfect fit. It has been announced for release in the US and will be released in other countries starting mid-November.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.42&quot; QHD screen&#xD;&#xA; - 2GHz 8-core Snapdragon 810 processor&#xD;&#xA; - 3GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 64GB of expandable storage&#xD;&#xA; - IP68 certified &amp;ndash; dust and water-resistant up to 1.5 meters and 30 minutes&#xD;&#xA; - MIL-STD-810G certified &amp;ndash; salt, dust, humidity, rain, vibration, solar radiation, transport and thermal shock resistant&#xD;&#xA; - Corning Gorilla Glass 4&#xD;&#xA; - 21MP main camera and 5MP front-facing camera&#xD;&#xA; - 3760 mAh battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Moto X info announcement via engadget.com](http://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/moto-x-force)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can wait and you're willing to spend around &amp;euro;500 that phone will be great for you! &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="199" RevisionGUID="ed7c9283-518b-4cd8-8ffc-c36eee6eb08b" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:25:45.687" UserId="155" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="For questions about the do-it-yourself single-board PC and its add-ons." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="08e88c1f-f64e-452d-8bef-4a8bc2fed3f3" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:33:44.937" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;smartcards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1019" RevisionGUID="d133cfa8-4668-4271-9252-faf36d447ef6" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:40:42.980" UserId="531" Text="At some point in the future, I'd like to replace my home router with a x86 box running pfsense. I'm rather fond of the NUC form factor for things like this but finding a suitable one has been tricky. My requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No soldered in ram. Might happen, who knows. I'm happy with a single slot tho&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not picky about the processor. Atom x3 or better. Passively cooled would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA; - Msata, M2 or regular sata is fine. I'll possibly boot off USB anyway&#xD;&#xA; - 2 gigabit network ports built in. **Essential**. Would be awesome if one or both are intel &#xD;&#xA; - NUC form factor, though I'm fine with any varient.&#xD;&#xA; - Optionally built in wifi adaptor that supports hostapd. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3581" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1019" RevisionGUID="d133cfa8-4668-4271-9252-faf36d447ef6" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:40:42.980" UserId="531" Text="NUC class system with dual ethernet ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1019" RevisionGUID="d133cfa8-4668-4271-9252-faf36d447ef6" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:40:42.980" UserId="531" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="248" RevisionGUID="19556743-b923-47d9-81b0-e83ca8cf7394" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:41:54.857" UserId="155" Comment="shrunk images" Text="Due to the fact that this is novelty on the market, it would be not that easy to find exacly what you want but **[Elgato Thunderbolt Dock][1]** is relatively close. We can expect that they will release similar model with **Thunderbolt 3**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Two Thunderbolt 2 ports&#xD;&#xA;2. Built-in HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;3. Built-in Gigabit Ethernet &#xD;&#xA;4. Three USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Elgato Dock - Front][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Elgato Dock - Back][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Cable-Included-10024010/dp/B00IM3OZ1C/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.imgur.com/GnJcILp.jpg?1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.imgur.com/J3RCBj2.jpg?1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1020" RevisionGUID="6bd21554-ccc1-4ef1-859b-411046013c18" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:43:11.570" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="6380d52d-3665-4447-9d68-b34f242ee04b" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:43:11.570" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1019" RevisionGUID="f8d8581b-2809-4263-997c-5fc88137753a" CreationDate="2015-11-02T23:55:39.213" UserId="531" Comment="added 340 characters in body" Text="At some point in the future, I'd like to replace my home router with a x86 box running pfsense. I'm rather fond of the NUC form factor for things like this but finding a suitable one has been tricky. My requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No soldered in ram. Might happen, who knows. I'm happy with a single slot tho&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not picky about the processor. Atom x3 or better. Passively cooled would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA; - Msata, M2 or regular sata is fine. I'll possibly boot off USB anyway&#xD;&#xA; - 2 gigabit network ports built in. **Essential**. Would be awesome if one or both are intel &#xD;&#xA; - NUC form factor, though I'm fine with any varient.&#xD;&#xA; - Optionally built in wifi adaptor that supports hostapd. &#xD;&#xA; - Available in/will ship to singapore or the US &#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced - dosen't make sense for me to pay 2x what a regular nuc class machine costs just for a spare ethernet port. I accept there will be a *small* price premium.&#xD;&#xA; - No I will not use a dongle. I considered it. I may do it. Its unacceptable for the scope of this question" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="184" RevisionGUID="20e9ece0-0b5c-47bd-83a3-3f0f81baa9f5" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:10:04.073" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3588" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="96ecdde3-3bcd-4a6a-9385-47ebf027f4db" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:10:33.517" UserId="531" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="NUC or next unit of computing refers to a small form factor PC originally designed by intel. Many other manufacturers have their own varients of it such as the BRIX. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="96ecdde3-3bcd-4a6a-9385-47ebf027f4db" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:10:33.517" Comment="Proposed by 531 approved by -1 edit id of 240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="12093b6e-dd0c-4eae-ad0e-9cfb3ca79fad" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:10:33.517" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 94 characters in body" Text="For questions about a small form factor PC originally designed by Intel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1020" RevisionGUID="30b44852-f84a-4df8-a5c8-5c2a18e678e0" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:11:09.177" UserId="8" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="NUC or next unit of computing refers to a small form factor PC originally designed by intel. Many other manufacturers have their own variants of it such as the BRIX. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="182" RevisionGUID="74000073-ef1f-4101-b017-8b7d7a9b654c" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:11:21.687" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="b13c8332-35b6-491a-89c6-383d9264e417" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:15:51.357" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag; clarified requirements" Text="I am searching for a good, fast microSD card with 64GB or 128GB of storage for a reasonable price. Must be compatible with the Huawei Honor 7 smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what it is important when buying microSD cards, so I would like some advice and some specific models that are good and have a good price. Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="175" RevisionGUID="b13c8332-35b6-491a-89c6-383d9264e417" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:15:51.357" UserId="155" Comment="removed tag; clarified requirements" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1022" RevisionGUID="20f48610-388b-4202-9148-5fa6c2cb113c" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:16:03.293" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1023" RevisionGUID="841d01fc-d728-4a88-970b-585d6cb31c71" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:16:03.293" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="09ed3891-0763-4bb3-8cfe-63ec0f101a3b" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:10:57.447" UserId="810" Text="I am looking for a USB Switch which allows one device like a keyboard to be connected to 2 systems such as a PC and Laptop and with a button or something you can switch between which system the USB is connected to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen USB Switches where you can connect multiple devices to the one USB port on a system (similar to a USB Hub but only one device is active on the system) but never where the one device can switch between the 2 systems but this could be because it may go by another name or quite possibly does not exists (though i can't understand why, it seems like an elementary peripheral for USB Harddrives/Harddrive Docks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for one because at work when my break comes in i may want to switch to doing some work on my laptop and i can save a lot of time by setting it up on my desk like another screen and then just switch the keyboard and mouse over to it and back during my break (incase if during my break something catastrophic happens and i need to do work-work during my break) and turn my chair around than having to pick it up, move the keyboard and mouse away and ensure the power cable is still going behind the desk so no one trips, and then doing that in reverse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3600" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="09ed3891-0763-4bb3-8cfe-63ec0f101a3b" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:10:57.447" UserId="810" Text="USB Switch for one device -&gt; 2 systems" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="09ed3891-0763-4bb3-8cfe-63ec0f101a3b" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:10:57.447" UserId="810" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3602" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="faa5d300-547b-4ff2-9960-6a3cd564a127" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:31:13.440" UserId="476" Comment="Capitalized 'I's (I'm sorry, I'm a grammar Nazi), removed irrevalent information." Text="I am looking for a USB Switch which allows one device like a keyboard to be connected to 2 systems such as a PC and Laptop and with a button or something you can switch between which system the USB is connected to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for one because at work when my break comes in I may want to switch to doing some work on my laptop and I can save a lot of time by setting it up on my desk like another screen and then just switch the keyboard and mouse over to it and back during my break (in case during my break something catastrophic happens and I need to do work - work during my break) and turn my chair around than having to pick it up, move the keyboard and mouse away and ensure the power cable is still going behind the desk so no one trips, and then doing that in reverse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="faa5d300-547b-4ff2-9960-6a3cd564a127" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:31:13.440" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 810 edit id of 242" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1025" RevisionGUID="9a0576b4-d7f3-4f6a-9a86-f9a1e8152668" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:35:49.897" UserId="476" Text="I have never used this, and I have never heard of this brand. However, this came up as one of the first results via a quick search on Google, so here it is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The IOGEAR GUS402A, a USB switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to **2** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.iogear.com/product_images/web/hi/GUS402_0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1025" RevisionGUID="53ceae4f-1e45-485e-92b5-eabe62d75031" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:42:25.463" UserId="476" Comment="added 489 characters in body" Text="I have never used this, and I have never heard of this brand. However, this came up as one of the first results via a quick search on Google, so here it is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS402][1], a USB switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to **2** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $50&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][2] for $28&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS404][4], a USB switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to up to **4** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $60&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][5] for $40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.iogear.com/product/GUS402/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.iogear.com/product_images/web/hi/GUS402_0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.iogear.com/product/GUS404/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS404/dp/B00BD8I3EI/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1019" RevisionGUID="d4b826a2-46d8-4feb-80b1-7459053905a2" CreationDate="2015-11-03T05:15:10.957" UserId="531" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="At some point in the future, I'd like to replace my home router with a x86 box running pfsense. I'm rather fond of the NUC form factor for things like this but finding a suitable one has been tricky. My requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No soldered in ram. Might happen, who knows. I'm happy with a single slot tho&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not picky about the processor. Atom x3 or better. Passively cooled would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA; - Msata, M2 or regular sata is fine. I'll possibly boot off USB anyway&#xD;&#xA; - dual gigabit network ports built in. **Essential**. Would be awesome if one or both are intel. (To make it doubly clear - ethernet ports, gigabit ethernet capable, copper, RJ45 compatible, quantity 2).&#xD;&#xA; - NUC form factor, though I'm fine with any varient.&#xD;&#xA; - Optionally built in wifi adaptor that supports hostapd. &#xD;&#xA; - Available in/will ship to singapore or the US &#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced - dosen't make sense for me to pay 2x what a regular nuc class machine costs just for a spare ethernet port. I accept there will be a *small* price premium.&#xD;&#xA; - No I will not use a dongle. I considered it. I may do it. Its unacceptable for the scope of this question" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="984" RevisionGUID="8fd16bf8-7791-46d9-bbc6-fa066abb2433" CreationDate="2015-11-03T05:41:48.657" UserId="737" Comment="added 693 characters in body" Text="this could help you find your answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.bjorn3d.com/2015/08/intel-core-i7-6700k-review-skylake-falling/3/&#xD;&#xA;As you can seee for photo edition the 6700k is pretty good but not the best&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as you can see here &#xD;&#xA;http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the 5960x does beat it quite often then not but it's also 3 times the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so between the 6700k and 5820k&#xD;&#xA;multicore: 5820k is about 25% faster.&#xD;&#xA;singlecore the 6700k is 23% faster.&#xD;&#xA;these are from benchmark scores&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot go wrong with either, noticeable advantages the 5820k has over 6700k is the memory bandwith which seriously quite high (Double actually) and the 2 cores (4threads)&#xD;&#xA;So after reconsideration on my behalf, the 5820k might actually be the better choice since photo editing softwares are all 64bit and multicore nowdays. You can even overclock the 5820k more easily than the 6700k.&#xD;&#xA;But then in gaming the 6700k takes the large, not by much but still noticable since it's single core performamce are pretty high. the 6700k is also power efficient and suports usb 3.1 natively (future proof)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5820k would be my choice, with a setup than doesn't bottleneck it's performances. Atleast for the next 4-5years you're good to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="8a908eae-227c-4ee9-8ab7-352942daf8da" CreationDate="2015-11-03T06:49:41.520" UserId="803" Comment="Small formatting fix." Text="**EDIT**: My original question contained too many questions, so here we go again, one component at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, the motherboard of my 7 year old PC died and I'll need a new one. I plan to use it mainly for gaming (Elder Scrolls series, Fallout series, League of Legends, Crusder Kings, ...) with potentially getting into a bit of programming or video editing down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be resuing the case, mouse, keyboard, monitor, and probably also the GPU of my old computer. The plan being that upgrading the GPU becomes my first major upgrade in the coming months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm happy to run my games at 30 fps, but I'd like that to also be true for the games I'll be playing 3 years from now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main issue is that I'd like a computer that will last at least 4 years (preferably longer), but my budget is only around 500€ (about as much as $500) and I'm concerned that won't be enough for what I want. So price is a very serious concern for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first order of business is choosing the CPU. I decided I want a quad core because supposedly that will be needed to run Fallout 4, but all I know about processors is that quad core is better than dual core and that unlike 15 years ago the processing speed is no longer the sole thing that determines how good a CPU is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should probably also mention that I don't plan to play Fallout 4 on release, but instead pick it up during a Steam sale in a year or two. However, since I plan my PC to last logner than 2 years and it can't run wthout a CPU, I still want the CPU I get now to be good enough for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My source on FO4 minimum requirements: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. AMD or Intell? I'm more interested in cost efficiency than peak performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Considering my budget restrictions, should I go for the minimum required to run FO4 or a little above to make the computer more future proof? I could scrape together some extra money, but it needs to be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Beyond the number of cores and frequency, what other properties are *really* important in a processor? In the sense of what should someone who knows virtually nothing about processors be careful about when chosing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3612" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="8a908eae-227c-4ee9-8ab7-352942daf8da" CreationDate="2015-11-03T06:49:41.520" UserId="803" Comment="Small formatting fix." Text="Need help buying new budget gaming PC: the processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="8a908eae-227c-4ee9-8ab7-352942daf8da" CreationDate="2015-11-03T06:49:41.520" UserId="803" Comment="Small formatting fix." Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="306" RevisionGUID="53849b11-a210-475d-8e7e-d16bb48ac45b" CreationDate="2015-11-03T06:59:42.953" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 38 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware used at the location of a sale, often to perform or aid in a sale (e.g., card readers, NFC readers, PIN entry, PoS terminals). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="a6fa8412-e613-40e1-9b83-4ae306c57fb3" CreationDate="2015-11-03T07:00:10.757" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;point-of-sale&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1020" RevisionGUID="d7ed3195-b411-4f6a-8bee-ef749cf2711e" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:00:11.670" UserId="155" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="NUC, or next unit of computing, refers to the small form factor PC (or mini-PC) designed by Intel. Many other manufacturers now have their own variants of it such as Gigabyte's BRIX." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="12a37608-c4ca-4f1a-8937-823e11dd8de7" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:00:11.670" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="For questions about the compact mini-PC designed by Intel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="f3670558-b72c-4e88-8144-340c5f487dcf" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:23:05.637" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags; clarified title" Text="USB switch for one device connected to two systems" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1024" RevisionGUID="f3670558-b72c-4e88-8144-340c5f487dcf" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:23:05.637" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags; clarified title" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="5df17419-b1dc-428f-9555-2222f62a0aba" CreationDate="2015-11-03T10:36:14.273" UserId="803" Comment="Added question about skylake, where I live, and link the website where I'll likely buy my components." Text="**EDIT**: My original question contained too many questions, so here we go again, one component at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, the motherboard of my 7 year old PC died and I'll need a new one. I plan to use it mainly for gaming (Elder Scrolls series, Fallout series, League of Legends, Crusder Kings, ...) with potentially getting into a bit of programming or video editing down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be resuing the case, mouse, keyboard, monitor, and probably also the GPU of my old computer. The plan being that upgrading the GPU becomes my first major upgrade in the coming months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm happy to run my games at 30 fps, but I'd like that to also be true for the games I'll be playing 3 years from now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main issue is that I'd like a computer that will last at least 4 years (preferably longer), but my budget is only around €500-600 ($550-660) and I'm concerned that won't be enough for what I want. So price is a very serious concern for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first order of business is choosing the CPU. I decided I want a quad core because supposedly that will be needed to run Fallout 4, but all I know about processors is that quad core is better than dual core and that unlike 15 years ago the processing speed is no longer the sole thing that determines how good a CPU is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should probably also mention that I don't plan to play Fallout 4 on release, but instead pick it up during a Steam sale in a year or two. However, since I plan my PC to last logner than 2 years and it can't run wthout a CPU, I still want the CPU I get now to be good enough for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. AMD or Intel? I'm more interested in cost efficiency than peak performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Considering my budget restrictions, should I go for the minimum required to run FO4 or somewhat above to make the computer more future proof? I could scrape together some extra money, but it needs to be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Beyond the number of cores and frequency, what other properties are *really* important in a processor? In the sense of what should someone who knows virtually nothing about processors be careful about when chosing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I just found out about the new Skylake processors that Intel released a couple of months ago. If I decide to go for Intel, would you recommend me to get one of these?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in Slovenia and have been looking at this website for components and prices: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Original: http://www.sestavi.si/index.php/items/display/169/171/procesorji&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google translated: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=sl&amp;tl=en&amp;js=y&amp;prev=_t&amp;hl=en&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sestavi.si%2Findex.php%2Fitems%2Fdisplay%2F169%2F171%2Fprocesorji&amp;edit-text=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1027" RevisionGUID="8ef29fc1-c78d-4b04-8e59-5f0fa712d190" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:24:10.380" UserId="811" Text="We have a TV we want to connect to our array of laptops. The laptops have **DisplayPort** or **mini-DisplayPort** output while the TV has only **1 HDMI** output (alas).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the obvious solution would be to have an HDMI extension cord M/M that is attached either to an HDMI/DisplayPort (F/M) adapter or an HDMI/mini-DisplayPort (F/M) adapter and you need to plug the adapter depending of your laptop output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Users being users, they find it hard to switch to the correct adapter so we were wondering if there is an HDMI adapter that support both DisplayPort and mini-DisplayPort so the adapter would be always plugged to the extension cord.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My prior search on the internet seems to indicate such adapter do not exists so maybe there is another way to accomplish what we want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I envisioned having an HDMI splitter to be able to work with two HDMI output (each plugged with a different adapter) but we are worried about losing signal quality. So we would like your opinion on how should we proceed and suggestions about components we should use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1027" RevisionGUID="8ef29fc1-c78d-4b04-8e59-5f0fa712d190" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:24:10.380" UserId="811" Text="HDMI adapter supporting both DisplayPort and mini-DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1027" RevisionGUID="8ef29fc1-c78d-4b04-8e59-5f0fa712d190" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:24:10.380" UserId="811" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1023" RevisionGUID="f8e9d0a5-a13c-4f2c-bee4-509da9431023" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:31:11.120" UserId="125" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="This tag is to be used for questions about hardware regarding scientific instruments such as adapters and controllers for digital instruments." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1023" RevisionGUID="f8e9d0a5-a13c-4f2c-bee4-509da9431023" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:31:11.120" Comment="Proposed by 125 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 241" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1028" RevisionGUID="d27cfce3-22da-4a38-b7a7-ca2f6202be4c" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:34:58.333" UserId="476" Text="And, more searching on Google has brought up this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [SIIG JU-SW0012-S1][1], a USB 3.0 switch that allows **2** computers to be connected to **1** USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $50&#xD;&#xA; - [Amazon][2]: $31&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.siig.com/usb-3-0-switch-2-to-1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/SIIG-SuperSpeed-Switch-Adapter-JU-SW0012-S1/dp/B005EHND30&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3VUno.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1025" RevisionGUID="fc451531-500c-47fe-ac7e-a20f9db8654c" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:45:27.853" UserId="476" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I have never used this, and I have never heard of this brand. However, this came up as one of the first results via a quick search on Google, so here it is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS402][1], a USB **2.0** switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to **2** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $50&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][2] for $28&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS404][4], a USB **2.0** switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to up to **4** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $60&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][5] for $40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.iogear.com/product/GUS402/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.iogear.com/product_images/web/hi/GUS402_0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.iogear.com/product/GUS404/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS404/dp/B00BD8I3EI/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1028" RevisionGUID="ab2eadc9-fe3a-4502-8e43-43c28b6e951e" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:45:44.103" UserId="476" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="And, more searching on Google has brought up this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [SIIG JU-SW0012-S1][1], a USB **3.0** switch that allows **2** computers to be connected to **1** USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $50&#xD;&#xA; - [Amazon][2]: $31&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.siig.com/usb-3-0-switch-2-to-1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/SIIG-SuperSpeed-Switch-Adapter-JU-SW0012-S1/dp/B005EHND30&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3VUno.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1029" RevisionGUID="6710c69a-6136-418b-9888-6e980c62cf75" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:47:16.983" UserId="812" Text="I'm going to recommend something slightly similar to the other answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at the Sennheiser HD 229 headphones ([link](http://www.trustedreviews.com/sennheiser-hd-229-review)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have great sound quality, and appear to match most of your criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Over ear design&#xD;&#xA;- Durable, I've had them for some time.&#xD;&#xA;-No batteries needed, no noise cancelling.&#xD;&#xA;- Insulated against sound&#xD;&#xA;- Yes, it goes without saying&#xD;&#xA;- In your price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1029" RevisionGUID="62c72e4e-d24e-4177-a4c8-316b8a806228" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:47:46.747" UserId="8" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm going to recommend something slightly similar to the other answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at the Sennheiser HD 229 headphones ([link](http://www.trustedreviews.com/sennheiser-hd-229-review)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have great sound quality, and appear to match most of your criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Over ear design&#xD;&#xA;- Durable, I've had them for some time.&#xD;&#xA;- No batteries needed, no noise cancelling.&#xD;&#xA;- Insulated against sound&#xD;&#xA;- Yes, it goes without saying&#xD;&#xA;- In your price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="0374d606-49a8-4dd1-a5ba-b4cd0ca7c521" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:18:34.857" UserId="807" Comment="added 1201 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I've been searching for a simple Blu-Ray player.  I've notice a lot of Blu-ray players are in the $60+ range, but also come with Wi-Fi/LAN capabilities, able play music, Netflix, all that stuff. I don't really want any of that. I just want to watch a Blu-ray movie and that's it for a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some things that would be ideal for me,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB (So I can connect to my laptop) (External Blu-Ray player)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need it to write blu-rays, only read to watch movies (Hopefully drop the price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If a USB one for a lower price is not an option, a standard one the connects to a TV through HDMI will be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping for the $20-30 range if those even exist. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking a USB one would be cheaper, but the only ones I could find were ones that also wrote to Blu-Rays.  Which I'm guessing made them significantly more expensive. (I also don't know much about Blu-ray players and if they can even be decoded through USB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a nutshell, I just want to watch Blu-Ray movies for $20-30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've been searching a little more and giving this a little more thought. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I decide to bite the bullet and buy a $70+ Blu-ray player with all the bells and whistles, how easy is it to stream a Blu-ray movie over a network?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking this would actually be a convenient solution for me. I would be able to connect the Blu-ray player to a TV and also be able to access it elsewhere in the house through the network.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, to make what I want a little more clear,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    -Blu-Ray player (Preferably less than $120 after looking at many prices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    -Blu-Ray player able to be hard wired and have Wifi capabilities&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    -Capable of streaming over a network to a PC running Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    -Software for PC (Free?)(If needed)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To add a little more detail, both the PC and the Blu-Ray player will be wired into the same router, as I'm assuming streaming a Blu-ray over wifi could be pretty rough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If someone already has a set-up similar to mine, I would be grateful to know what you have/are using to do this already. I didn't want to get jumpy and buy a Blu-ray player and find some software just to find out nothing is compatible and I wasted my money!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3644" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="0374d606-49a8-4dd1-a5ba-b4cd0ca7c521" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:18:34.857" UserId="807" Comment="added 1201 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Simple cheap blu-ray player (UPDATE)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="0374d606-49a8-4dd1-a5ba-b4cd0ca7c521" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:18:34.857" UserId="807" Comment="added 1201 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3646" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="988" RevisionGUID="c2da3d88-4e2b-438c-9c9a-c5f56cfcfb12" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:24:03.643" UserId="57" Comment="Removed &quot;update&quot; from title" Text="Simple cheap blu-ray player" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="85b9a9aa-8d99-44e0-ab8e-73945d29caa7" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:24:43.927" UserId="704" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- chassis: Corsair 650D&#xD;&#xA;- mobo: Asus P5Q Deluxe&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- gfx: Radeon R9 290&#xD;&#xA;- psu: Corsair 750W&#xD;&#xA;- mem: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for an upgrade to something which will run Battlefield 4, Battlefront Star Wars (new one) and anything in upcoming 3-4 years for a casual gamer. I want to keep current chassis and gfx card (will probably upgrade in those 3-4 years anyway).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations? No AMD CPU please.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="85b9a9aa-8d99-44e0-ab8e-73945d29caa7" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:24:43.927" UserId="704" Text="PC upgrade from Core2Quad 4GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3649" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="85b9a9aa-8d99-44e0-ab8e-73945d29caa7" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:24:43.927" UserId="704" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="8b6fff9a-af0b-461e-98e3-f01f71d18945" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:39:02.893" UserId="704" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- chassis: Corsair 650D&#xD;&#xA;- mobo: Asus P5Q Deluxe&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- gfx: Radeon R9 290&#xD;&#xA;- psu: Corsair 750W&#xD;&#xA;- mem: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That setup is maxed out so I'm looking for an upgrade to something which will run Battlefield 4, Battlefront Star Wars (new one) and anything in upcoming 3-4 years (have ability to upgrade to better CPU and gfx card) for a casual gamer. I want to keep current chassis and gfx card (will probably upgrade in those 3-4 years anyway).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for mobo+cpu+mem+psu setup? No AMD CPU please.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3651" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="76ad2077-1ea4-4d53-aa83-2a748cbf49ff" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:06:10.690" UserId="704" Comment="added 62 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- chassis: Corsair 650D&#xD;&#xA;- mobo: Asus P5Q Deluxe&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- gfx: Radeon R9 290&#xD;&#xA;- psu: Corsair 750W&#xD;&#xA;- mem: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to keep chassis and gfx card for a new setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a CPU recommendation (no AMD please) which will be better from current one and will allow future upgrade. Computer mainly used for work (web dev, Photoshop, some android coding with unity), casual gaming (Battlefield 4, Battlefront Star Wars (new one), Evolve, etc), music (mp3, Spotify - mostly when doing my work) and movies watching from streaming services (HBO Go, STARZ Go, Plex, Netflix, etc)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="76ad2077-1ea4-4d53-aa83-2a748cbf49ff" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:06:10.690" UserId="704" Comment="added 62 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="CPU recommendation for new setup [casual gammer]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3653" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="76ad2077-1ea4-4d53-aa83-2a748cbf49ff" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:06:10.690" UserId="704" Comment="added 62 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="5149bf04-9571-4cc2-b855-2473e0eb4887" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:11:33.383" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title; edited tags" Text="CPU recommendation for new casual gaming setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3655" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="5149bf04-9571-4cc2-b855-2473e0eb4887" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:11:33.383" UserId="1" Comment="Improve title; edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1035" RevisionGUID="8b17e777-c3cc-4370-9e03-08a9c5de0990" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:16:55.607" UserId="704" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- chassis: Corsair 650D&#xD;&#xA;- mobo: Asus P5Q Deluxe&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- gfx: Radeon R9 290&#xD;&#xA;- psu: Corsair 750W&#xD;&#xA;- mem: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to keep chassis and gfx card for a new setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a CPU recommendation (no AMD please) which will be better from current one and will allow future upgrade. Computer mainly used for work (web dev, Photoshop, some android coding with unity), casual gaming (Battlefield 4, Battlefront Star Wars (new one), Evolve, etc), music (mp3, Spotify - mostly when doing my work) and movies watching from streaming services (HBO Go, STARZ Go, Plex, Netflix, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range something around $250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="f1d1cae0-ba64-41a4-a53d-060fe40bb017" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:26:09.940" UserId="813" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires &gt;= 16 MB of video memory or thereabouts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a $25 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="f1d1cae0-ba64-41a4-a53d-060fe40bb017" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:26:09.940" UserId="813" Text="Basic HD resolution video card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="f1d1cae0-ba64-41a4-a53d-060fe40bb017" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:26:09.940" UserId="813" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1037" RevisionGUID="27febfee-169f-4d9d-95f4-f080965923a1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:27:07.923" UserId="385" Text="I am confused about which one of these processors to buy. I will pair it with an NVidia GeForce GTX 980 Ti. Also, I don't plan on too many upgrades and also I won't be overclocking 'too much'. The processors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-4790K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Devil's Canyon Haswell Refresh**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4 Cores / 8 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4.00 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-5820K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Haswell-E**&#xD;&#xA;       - **6 Cores / 12 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **3.60 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-6700K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Skylake-S**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4 Cores / 8 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4.00 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5820K and 6700K are the same price and also require DDR4 RAM and 99/170 series chipset motherboards, all of which are expensive. The 4700K and its supporting platform are comparatively cheaper. I am not willing to spend a lot of money. I will be mainly gaming and apart from that just surfing on the internet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1037" RevisionGUID="27febfee-169f-4d9d-95f4-f080965923a1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:27:07.923" UserId="385" Text="Which Intel CPU should I buy - Core i7-5820K or i7-6700K or i7-4790K?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1037" RevisionGUID="27febfee-169f-4d9d-95f4-f080965923a1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:27:07.923" UserId="385" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1039" RevisionGUID="015aade5-9383-4888-886d-0f958d461ab9" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:09:47.783" UserId="57" Text="I have a low end Radeon card in one of my closet machines. If you are getting a new one, I'd recommend the [Radeon HD 5450][1]. It is $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Radeon HD 5450][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had support for HDMI, DVI and HDMI output. It also has 1 GB of memory and has a PCI Express interface. It is also fanless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not going to run high end video or play the newest games at max settings, but it will run a high definition monitor without a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150565&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0NH1f.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="8a81fea4-864a-43b7-9974-d3aec4ac100e" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:25:40.337" UserId="813" Comment="added 243 characters in body" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires &gt;= 16 MB of video memory or thereabouts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C, and keeps 20g of aluminum warm too, implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $25 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 10 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1039" RevisionGUID="9e70e5de-ec47-45c9-a119-f02d3de61501" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:27:30.967" UserId="57" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I have a low end Radeon card in one of my closet machines. If you are getting a new one, I'd recommend the [Radeon HD 5450][1]. It is $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Radeon HD 5450][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has support for HDMI, DVI and HDMI output. It also has 1 GB of memory and has a PCI Express interface. It is also fanless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not going to run high end video or play the newest games at max settings, but it will run a high definition monitor without a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150565&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0NH1f.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="6e6036d0-8bef-4e83-a29d-52ae17c5df8d" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:39:01.033" UserId="813" Comment="added 661 characters in body" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires &gt;= 16 MB of video memory or thereabouts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C, and keeps 20g of aluminum warm too, implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $25 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#To clarify further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 10 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="3a6d064c-f11f-4129-a93a-ad3c6b149b55" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:39:36.380" UserId="803" Comment="Modified second question, added a link to FO4 system requirements." Text="**EDIT**: My original question contained too many questions, so here we go again, one component at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, the motherboard of my 7 year old PC died and I'll need a new one. I plan to use it mainly for gaming (Elder Scrolls series, Fallout series, League of Legends, Crusder Kings, ...) with potentially getting into a bit of programming or video editing down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be resuing the case, mouse, keyboard, monitor, and probably also the GPU of my old computer. The plan being that upgrading the GPU becomes my first major upgrade in the coming months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm happy to run my games at 30 fps, but I'd like that to also be true for the games I'll be playing 3 years from now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main issue is that I'd like a computer that will last at least 4 years (preferably longer), but my budget is only around €500-600 ($550-660) and I'm concerned that won't be enough for what I want. So price is a very serious concern for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first order of business is choosing the CPU. I decided I want a quad core because supposedly that will be needed to run Fallout 4, but all I know about processors is that quad core is better than dual core and that unlike 15 years ago the processing speed is no longer the sole thing that determines how good a CPU is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should probably also mention that I don't plan to play Fallout 4 on release, but instead pick it up during a Steam sale in a year or two. However, since I plan my PC to last logner than 2 years and it can't run wthout a CPU, I still want the CPU I get now to be good enough for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. AMD or Intel? I'm more interested in cost efficiency than peak performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I want to get something better than the bare minimum required to run FO4 in order for my PC to be somewhat future proof, but I'm not sure how far over the bare minimum I should go, considering my budget restrictions. The minimum requirements I found online are Intel Core i5-2300 2.8GHz or AMD Phenom II X4 945. Recommended processors for FO4 are Intel Core i7 4790 3.6 GHz or AMD FX-9590 4.7 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Beyond the number of cores and frequency, what other properties are *really* important in a processor? In the sense of what should someone who knows virtually nothing about processors be careful about when chosing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I just found out about the new Skylake processors that Intel released a couple of months ago. If I decide to go for Intel, would you recommend me to get one of these? My gut feeling is to go for the new thing because it will last longer, but is it really worth the price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in Slovenia and have been looking at this website for components and prices: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Original: http://www.sestavi.si/index.php/items/display/169/171/procesorji&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google translated: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=sl&amp;tl=en&amp;js=y&amp;prev=_t&amp;hl=en&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sestavi.si%2Findex.php%2Fitems%2Fdisplay%2F169%2F171%2Fprocesorji&amp;edit-text=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My source on Fallout 4 requirements: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="a7ed1f97-7723-4676-8f44-5ba5e21041a4" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:57:13.530" UserId="813" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires ~16 MiB of video memory, since 1920 * 1080 * 3 (bytes/pixel) * 2 (double buffer) / 1048576 ~= 12 MiB, and I'm aware of embedded platforms that will display HD with 16 MiB of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C whilst keeping 20g of aluminum very warm too implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.  My PSU is fine, I just don't like pointless waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $25 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#To clarify further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="3cdf29e8-b08f-48e6-84c2-44eb87f066c1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T17:02:31.990" UserId="813" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.  But I'm curious what I could have done without this not-very-ideal option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires ~16 MiB of video memory, since 1920 * 1080 * 3 (bytes/pixel) * 2 (double buffer) / 1048576 ~= 12 MiB, and I'm aware of embedded platforms that will display HD with 16 MiB of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C whilst keeping 20g of aluminum very warm too implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.  My PSU is fine, I just don't like pointless waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $25 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#To clarify further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="61205ef4-0a09-4031-8422-424c4400a517" CreationDate="2015-11-03T17:26:44.370" UserId="813" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.  But I'm curious what I could have done without this not-very-ideal option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires ~16 MiB of video memory, since 1920 * 1080 * 3 (bytes/pixel) * 2 (double buffer) / 1048576 ~= 12 MiB, and I'm aware of embedded platforms that will display HD with 16 MiB of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to be anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C whilst keeping 20g of aluminum very warm too implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.  My PSU is fine, I just don't like pointless waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $20 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#To clarify further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="1a697629-c4cc-4110-982c-dd95c5e47c4d" CreationDate="2015-11-03T17:42:59.163" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="983" RevisionGUID="6151bb66-413d-4065-8c19-87ce278ca706" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:45:18.457" UserId="57" Comment="clean up a bit" Text="Long story short, the motherboard of my 7 year old PC died and I'll need a new one. I plan to use it mainly for gaming (Elder Scrolls series, Fallout series, League of Legends, Crusader Kings, ...) with potentially getting into a bit of programming or video editing down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be reusing the case, mouse, keyboard, monitor, and probably also the GPU of my old computer. The plan being that upgrading the GPU becomes my first major upgrade in the coming months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm happy to run my games at 30 fps, but I'd like that to also be true for the games I'll be playing 3 years from now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main issue is that I'd like a computer that will last at least 4 years (preferably longer), but my budget is only around €500-600 ($550-660) and I'm concerned that won't be enough for what I want. So price is a very serious concern for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first order of business is choosing the CPU. I decided I want a quad core because supposedly that will be needed to run Fallout 4, but all I know about processors is that quad core is better than dual core and that unlike 15 years ago the processing speed is no longer the sole thing that determines how good a CPU is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should probably also mention that I don't plan to play Fallout 4 on release, but instead pick it up during a Steam sale in a year or two. However, since I plan my PC to last longer than 2 years and it can't run without a CPU, I still want the CPU I get now to be good enough for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. AMD or Intel? I'm more interested in cost efficiency than peak performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I want to get something better than the bare minimum required to run FO4 in order for my PC to be somewhat future proof, but I'm not sure how far over the bare minimum I should go, considering my budget restrictions. The minimum requirements I found online are Intel Core i5-2300 2.8GHz or AMD Phenom II X4 945. Recommended processors for FO4 are Intel Core i7 4790 3.6 GHz or AMD FX-9590 4.7 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Beyond the number of cores and frequency, what other properties are *really* important in a processor? In the sense of what should someone who knows virtually nothing about processors be careful about when chosing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I just found out about the new Skylake processors that Intel released a couple of months ago. If I decide to go for Intel, would you recommend me to get one of these? My gut feeling is to go for the new thing because it will last longer, but is it really worth the price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in Slovenia and have been looking at this website for components and prices: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Original][1] &#xD;&#xA;- [Google translated][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [Fallout 4 requirements][3]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sestavi.si/index.php/items/display/169/171/procesorji&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=sl&amp;tl=en&amp;js=y&amp;prev=_t&amp;hl=en&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sestavi.si%2Findex.php%2Fitems%2Fdisplay%2F169%2F171%2Fprocesorji&amp;edit-text=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="82c05f8d-7794-465b-b0dc-1dfc13052709" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:09:39.920" UserId="241" Comment="Change title to reflect main criteria" Text="Low-power-draw HD resolution video card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="82c05f8d-7794-465b-b0dc-1dfc13052709" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:09:39.920" Comment="Proposed by 241 approved by 8 edit id of 244" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="6fca1aca-2ee2-4918-9291-b903a60ce3dc" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:11:36.747" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="896" RevisionGUID="ffaa53fb-890b-436c-a432-1cca658bca45" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:12:43.247" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="224" RevisionGUID="46e14409-112f-499b-8087-f4ebf9603c60" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:13:21.207" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="450" RevisionGUID="a06dda33-00a2-456f-951f-b9f31a357743" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:14:41.037" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="355" RevisionGUID="f81a6221-9fa7-4b74-bf4b-0784039105ac" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:17:22.257" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="972" RevisionGUID="be9b2561-79a9-4003-9b36-ec7a17705de0" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:26:02.080" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="224" RevisionGUID="d4985fb8-73af-4506-8e56-d689d8c0aef0" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:18:42.873" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1041" RevisionGUID="30b89ff8-5d0b-47e4-9a31-25e65aa18c9b" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:58:04.047" UserId="665" Text="A USB graphics adapter would hit lower power levels (USB2 generally tops out at 5W per port, 3 can go significantly higher but doesn't have to); but the USB2 versions don't perform well with video or rapidly changing interfaces due to low bandwidth.  USB3 ones are supposed to be better in that regard; but if your computer is old enough that the IGP only does 2 displays (the last few generations of Intel CPUs have supported 3 displays) I'm guessing you probably don't have any USB3 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think you're going to find what you're looking for.  The margins in $40 cards are already so low as to be nearly non-existent, so there's no compelling reason for OEMs to go lower.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, unless you're using either a really old OS or a version of linux with a very light weight windows manager, I think you're also underestimating how low you can go on vram.  To improve performance modern OSes (eg Windows from Vista forward) generally cache copies of every open window even if it's currently hidden (so that if you bring it forward it displays instantly instead of having to wait for a redraw first).  IIRC this data is stored in VRAM, so you'd need more than just enough for double buffering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1042" RevisionGUID="e8951672-f862-4345-9753-8cbf2f21204e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T00:24:39.623" UserId="822" Text="I can recommend an application called Synergy http://synergy-project.org/   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can have a bunch of disparate computers connect to a single master over your local ethernet, and that master's keyboard and mouse signals go back the other way.  I think the limit is three rows of 5, so 15 computers.  Each can have multimonitors of their own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially you can have a &quot;Single console&quot; with Windows, Macintosh and Linux computers working seamlessly.  Naturally you can't drag windows between computers, but you can copy and paste text fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefits...  I get to use linux locally in my windows workplace, bu putting a linux laptop on my desk.  At home I have an older imac and linux side by side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no connection with synergy, other than being a paid-up user.  There's a &quot;free&quot; version and one-time donation gets you a bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a good use for an older laptop or a tablet too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1043" RevisionGUID="90fcb5f8-6bd6-4cc5-9fa6-aba5fd1831b2" CreationDate="2015-11-04T00:33:58.473" UserId="822" Text="If you like the NUC then stay with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A NUC or other small hardware can run pfsense well with one NIC, provided you have a managed ethernet switch, and you're prepared to have full duplex 500 Mbit through your firewall rather than full duplex gigabit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a small shuttle board/case with one onboard NIC, and no provision to add anything else.   USB was not a good solution either, due to CPU usage and general messiness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I simply set vlan10 on my procurve 2520 switch, and connected my pfsense box to a single trunk switchport that was configured to carry vlan1 untagged (the LAN) and vlan10 (the internet, tagged)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I swapped that box out for a 3 port APU, and it still runs on just one port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have several NUCs for various purposes, then consistency helps later on if you want to swap and change them around.   Flexibility and reuse are important.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1045" RevisionGUID="077a2394-e873-41e4-9ecf-3359f9e4f09b" CreationDate="2015-11-04T00:47:42.420" UserId="531" Text="[Mini PCIe gigabit ethernet][1] is a thing it seems. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some hacking needed (and warranty voiding maybe?) or maybe a 3d printed lid if its a proper NUC. I'd tradeoff wifi, I suppose, but there's reasonable workarounds for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Bracket-Controller-SD-MPE24031/dp/B00B524102/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qdDds.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1021" RevisionGUID="590a560c-5118-4590-8c35-6d1b6e68e119" CreationDate="2015-11-04T01:10:51.487" UserId="155" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="For questions about the NUC compact mini-PC or similar systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3713" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="1042" RevisionGUID="07e2858d-4267-460d-8175-1223b72478ac" CreationDate="2015-11-04T01:22:30.780" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1048" RevisionGUID="64803b81-58cf-451e-8edc-b7beed9e408c" CreationDate="2015-11-04T03:20:34.683" UserId="822" Text="I specifically recommend you consider specifically a PC Engines APU. http://www.pcengines.ch/apu.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They come with 2 or 3 gig interfaces, and have internal mini PCIe slots too.  You can choose between the 2GB or 4GB ram models, unfortunately it is soldered onto the board.  The mSATA cards listed are confirmed to work with pfsense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They use a serial console rather than VGA, and are proven to run pfsense fine. Added bonus, they're only a dozen watts of power draw and are passively cooled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cases are larger than a NUC but a lot slimmer too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/RQC7V.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I own one, it works perfectly in pfsense, specifically addresses the OP's question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1049" RevisionGUID="2dae5da1-6e9f-4c19-a9cd-cbdc884f1d49" CreationDate="2015-11-04T03:26:28.570" UserId="531" Text="You're going to end up getting something older. Pricerange though... hard to match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can think of something that would tick off most of the boxes - a [Matrox P690][1] (I was thinking the G550, but no WDDM drivers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe x1 (hey, you don't need more than that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;list price is about usd $250 (yeah, not easy) but you can get it significantly cheaper. Lowest I've seen is 70 usd. Its a niche card. Did I say economies of scale?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;128mb of ram, 2 DVI ports, handles somewhat better than 1080p. Out of your price range, somewhat unless you find a *fantastic* deal. Runs on anything vaguely modern. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/graphics_cards/p_series/p690lppciex1/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KBbPx.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1045" RevisionGUID="cafac889-efb4-46bf-9724-75f08a961345" CreationDate="2015-11-04T03:49:25.877" UserId="531" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="[Mini PCIe gigabit ethernet][1] is a thing it seems. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some hacking needed (and warranty voiding maybe?) or maybe a 3d printed lid if its a proper NUC. I'd tradeoff wifi, I suppose, but there's reasonable workarounds for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might also work with my current brix, though I need to work out how to cable it though&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Bracket-Controller-SD-MPE24031/dp/B00B524102/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qdDds.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1050" RevisionGUID="e0c0048f-b14f-40d5-8592-4d1d25ceb03e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T05:07:23.423" UserId="107" Text="I know Project Fi recently rolled out and currently requires a Nexus 5x or Nexus 6p. At the time I'm writing this, no other phones currently support Project Fi, but are there any others in the pipeline that will work, which will be released (or have been released later)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1050" RevisionGUID="e0c0048f-b14f-40d5-8592-4d1d25ceb03e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T05:07:23.423" UserId="107" Text="Are there any known Android phones planned which will work on Project Fi besides Nexus 5x and Nexus 6p?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1050" RevisionGUID="e0c0048f-b14f-40d5-8592-4d1d25ceb03e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T05:07:23.423" UserId="107" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;project-fi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1051" RevisionGUID="f26f6655-8a4c-45b1-8f88-e00fbef1a3dd" CreationDate="2015-11-04T05:20:24.427" UserId="107" Text="&gt; Which monitors that fit these parameters can you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I cannot answer this to your satisfaction, as I was going to recommend the Asus PA248Q which is a 24&quot; 16:10 monitor.  Personally, I like the additional vertical real estate but you have your own preference.  Still, you might look for a 16:9 variant from Asus since this model has a lot of nice features such as a built-in USB 3.0 hub, IPS panel, and some graphic design overlays via the control panel (e.g., grid overlays in inches or cm, and various photo sizes like 4&quot;x6&quot;, IIRC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; To everyone who has worked with multiple monitors before: Do you think it is important that both monitors are the same size? Is it confusing if one is bigger than the other one (or bad for the eyes or something like that)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, absolutely--in fact, I'd even go further and recommend that you have 2 monitors of the same exact model. Having 2 different models all but guarantees that you will have color shifts as you move a window from one monitor to the other.  Yes, it is possible to do some calibration of different models, but if they are not using the same panels you won't get them to match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another issue is that, in my experience, it does cause some eye strain to switch between two monitors with different ppi and/or different resolution.  It's also slightly annoying when dragging a window from one screen to the other and the mouse cursor gets snagged on a &quot;corner&quot; when you're moving from the larger monitor to the smaller monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1052" RevisionGUID="8b120852-de5d-4fd1-a9df-23fe2fa769c8" CreationDate="2015-11-04T05:52:17.783" UserId="107" Text="[V-Moda Crossfade][1] headphones...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - circumaural (around-ear)&#xD;&#xA; - closed-back for some noise isolation&#xD;&#xA; - durable with replaceable parts (bonus: includes protective hard case)&#xD;&#xA; - detachable cord in case it gets damaged&#xD;&#xA; - no batteries&#xD;&#xA; - stereo (yes, goes without saying)&#xD;&#xA; - ~$100 ($80 on sale occasionally)&#xD;&#xA; - decent sound quality (I'm no audiophile but they're definitely better than any sub-$100 sets I've owned, yet fall short of more expensive headphones, obviously)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Crossfade-Over-Ear-Noise-Isolating-Headphone/dp/B003BYRGLI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446615888&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=v-moda%20crossfade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1053" RevisionGUID="0e1c2354-9b3c-47cc-81e4-a7829ae5f187" CreationDate="2015-11-04T06:17:11.863" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the IPS [ASUS VX239H][1], €179 at Amazon.de. It has an IPS panel, which has better colour accuracy and viewing angles. It's quite slim, and consumes less than 22 W, according to ASUS. The brightness is 250 nits, not stellar, but it should be sufficient indoors. It does have internal speakers though. The 5 ms response time is good for IPS monitors, and you shouldn't notice nay ghosting when gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's the ASUS's product page][2], if you want to know anything else. I'm fairly sure it meets all your requirements. Different sized monitors could be confusing, but you should get used to it after a while, if you use your computer a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00D6L4Y9I/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Monitors/VX239H/overview/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="4f34a501-24b6-4feb-9496-0c290d8add3b" CreationDate="2015-11-04T08:05:05.077" UserId="20" Comment="added better option" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km, provided you can modify them: [electronics.stackexchange.com](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/) should be able to help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper still is [Ronja (Reasonable Optical Near Joint Access)](http://hackaday.com/2005/06/13/ronja-optical-data-link/), at 60 USD + 70 man hours for a 10Mbps optical communication link at distances of up to 1.4km. [Lasers](http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Transceiver/) instead of LEDs might double that range to [3.0 km](http://ronja.twibright.com/slides/ronja_wsfii.pdf).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best and cheapest option would be [WokFi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WokFi):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi antennas are fabricated out of commonly available concave metal&#xD;&#xA;&gt; kitchen dishes or dish covers (which need not be perfectly parabolic);&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Asian woks are favored because they have shapes closest to parabolic.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A commercial Wi-Fi antenna, usually a USB Wi-Fi dongle, is suspended&#xD;&#xA;&gt; in front of the dish, attached by cable to the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![Medium WokFi setup][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi gains are typically 10+ dB, with range boosts, thus can be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 16-32 times over a bare USB adapter. **Ranges (LoS) are typically 3–5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; km**, although an aligned pair of similar point-to-point transceiver&#xD;&#xA;&gt; setups may approach 10 km over a clear path. In addition, certain&#xD;&#xA;&gt; improved WokFi antennas, and antennas made using surplus 2-foot to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3-foot diameter round or oval satellite TV dishes, allow even far&#xD;&#xA;&gt; greater range, up to 20 km.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Jb61h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1054" RevisionGUID="464e9c59-aa9d-4f0d-93bc-f820aac5ab15" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:17:23.833" UserId="653" Text="A family member is moving into a new home soon, and for various reasons I've recommended that they purchase a 4G router instead of continuing to use landline broadband:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mobile data is insanely cheap- the provider that I've suggested they use have an offer on PAYG (Pay As You Go [prepay]) that gives completely unlimited data as long as the SIM card is topped up £10 every 14 days;&#xD;&#xA; - Using 4G is cheaper than landline broadband- £20/month for 4G or £24/month for landline broadband;&#xD;&#xA; - I've measured the 4G speed from within a house visit, and the speed I got was 90 Megabits/s. The maximum speed on the £24/month landline broadband is ~16 Megabits/s. I've already confirmed with the mobile provider that purchasing a SIM card on a PAYG package and using it exclusively for 4G Internet does not violate any of their terms.;&#xD;&#xA; - The cost of the 4G router would be earned back in two-three years&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for a 4G router for them to use, but however most seem to be portable routers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a couple of home 4G routers that I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Huawei B593s-22][1];&#xD;&#xA; - [D-Link DWR-921][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea of replacing home broadband with 4G hasn't caught on yet, possibly because in many countries landline broadband is faster than 4G.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently leaning towards the Huawei router, but are there any others which are better? I use a Huawei smartphone so I know they are a reliable brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be readily available- no 'oh look, someone wants to browse a website, let's connect to 4G';&#xD;&#xA; - Should have the ability to wall-mount, or alternatively attach a 4G signal booster aerial;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be suited to home networking (don't want a portable router);&#xD;&#xA; - Be at least Wireless N, if not Wireless AC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Huawei-B593s-22-Unlocked-Wireless-Router/dp/B009QW3ZG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4G%20Router&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-DWR-921-4G-LTE-Router/dp/B00BN36NMM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=4G%20Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1054" RevisionGUID="464e9c59-aa9d-4f0d-93bc-f820aac5ab15" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:17:23.833" UserId="653" Text="4G router for home use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1054" RevisionGUID="464e9c59-aa9d-4f0d-93bc-f820aac5ab15" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:17:23.833" UserId="653" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1055" RevisionGUID="263b2b38-16b3-4f99-b0bd-e828d714a0b1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:19:31.997" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1056" RevisionGUID="86a422e4-11a7-417e-a0b4-295badf74b53" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:19:31.997" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1049" RevisionGUID="62ad52f1-351d-475e-8be0-eb2c52c55ca0" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:48:54.390" UserId="531" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="You're going to end up getting something older. Pricerange though... hard to match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can think of something that would tick off most of the boxes - a [Matrox P690][1] (I was thinking the G550, but no WDDM drivers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe x1 (hey, you don't need more than that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;list price is about usd $250 (yeah, not easy) but you can get it significantly cheaper. Lowest I've seen is 70 usd. Its a niche card. Did I say economies of scale? That isn't helping here at all. Its an uncommon, specialised card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;128mb of ram, 2 DVI ports, handles somewhat better than 1080p. Out of your price range, somewhat unless you find a *fantastic* deal. Runs on anything vaguely modern. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/graphics_cards/p_series/p690lppciex1/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KBbPx.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1058" RevisionGUID="26598e1d-afe6-403e-bc02-09f500e89979" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:21:24.813" UserId="737" Text="Project Fi works with the Nexus 6, Nexus 5X and the Nexus 6P.&#xD;&#xA;Here is what the official site (FAQ) say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When will Project Fi support other smartphones?&#xD;&#xA;The Nexus 6P, Nexus 5X and Nexus 6 are the first smartphones that supports Project Fi's network of networks. **During Project Fi's Early Access Program we plan to only support these devices**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1058" RevisionGUID="cf1a2098-ca91-48eb-99fe-653a7d14b9c5" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:23:46.363" UserId="8" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="Project Fi works with the Nexus 6, Nexus 5X and the Nexus 6P.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is what the official site (FAQ) say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ### When will Project Fi support other smartphones?  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Nexus 6P, Nexus 5X and Nexus 6 are the first smartphones that supports Project Fi's network of networks. **During Project Fi's Early Access Program we plan to only support these devices**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1059" RevisionGUID="15f318df-e53c-4489-986b-6c5831218cb9" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:41:47.213" UserId="737" Text="The difference between 16gig (i'm assuming that's what you're going for in gaming) of DDR3 and DDR4 is of about 40bucks (in france) so I think you could go with the 6700k, since you're not into overcloking that much.&#xD;&#xA;The 5820k would have been the better choice if you're gonna buy more memory (for editing stuff) than that (it has double the bandwidth). But for gaming that's waaaay more than you need. And the 6700k has native USB 3.1 support so a little more future proof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And you can probably find good deals on the 6700k in those upgrade kits. And lastly the 4790k actually does better than the 5820k in gaming in a few tests so if the price difference matters go for that one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1037" RevisionGUID="04f12888-d8a5-4a5a-8479-b71815a7c61d" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:48:27.627" UserId="385" Comment="added 939 characters in body" Text="I am confused about which one of these processors to buy. I will pair it with two NVidia GeForce GTX 980 Ti (SLI). Also, I don't plan on too many upgrades and also I won't be overclocking 'too much'. The processors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-4790K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Devil's Canyon Haswell Refresh**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4 Cores / 8 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4.00 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-5820K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Haswell-E**&#xD;&#xA;       - **6 Cores / 12 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **3.60 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;- [**Intel Core i7-6700K**](http://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       - **Skylake-S**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4 Cores / 8 Threads**&#xD;&#xA;       - **4.00 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5820K and 6700K are the same price and also require DDR4 RAM and 99/170 series chipset motherboards, all of which are expensive. The 4700K and its supporting platform are comparatively cheaper. I am not willing to spend a lot of money. I will be mainly gaming and apart from that just surfing on the &#xD;&#xA;internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Uses:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Playing games like GTA V, Assassin's Creed Unity, WWE 2K16 etc. with &gt; 60fps at 1440p&#xD;&#xA; - Using Blender Cycles. If you don't know, Cycles uses pretty much **100%** of all your resources. It takes hours to render a complex image with my current GTX 260.&#xD;&#xA; - Not much except the above. Additional (not required but still) - Good Handbrake performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**:&#xD;&#xA;Total Build &lt; $3000 (including a 1440p display but excluding other peripherals like mouse, keyboards, speakers, etc.). My build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU - (That's the question)&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard - (Cheapest with good features and SLI Support, depending on CPU)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU - ASUS GTX 980 Ti STRIX 6GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; - Memory - 16 GB DDR3 or 8 GB DDR4 (This might also be a deciding factor.)&#xD;&#xA; - Display - ASUS PG278Q 1440p 27&quot; Monitor&#xD;&#xA; - Case - Corsair SPEC-02 Red&#xD;&#xA; - PSU - Corsair RM-850&#xD;&#xA; - Storage - 1x128 GB SSD + 1x3TB HDD. (Again, cheapest with the most gigs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="434" RevisionGUID="4c4814db-943c-408b-80ae-123938225c67" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:50:56.813" UserId="122" Comment="added 246 characters in body" Text="**Note/Update:** thanks to comments I now realize that I missed the 16:9 requirement - the below basically applies to a 16:10 monitor.  If that is not an issue for you (I have used both and do not really notice a difference), then read on....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When time came to replace my venerable [Iiyama E511S][1] in 2013 (after ~9 years of service) I did a lot of research - I wanted something in the 24&quot; range, widescreen, with crisp text and a decent response rate and I didn't want to get ripped off in terms of price, but wanted an IPS panel.  In the end, after reading a lot of reviews I went with the [Dell Ultrasharp U2412M][2], and the best price I found was on Amazon (not Dell direct).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time it cost me ~€300 but it can be had for around the €250 mark now.  I know that is a little above your stated price target but that's largely thanks to the crappy Euro exchange rates.  It is sub 200 pound sterling on Amazon UK at the moment and less than $250 in the states, so you may be able to source it a bit cheaper than €250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have this right next to a [BenQ G2400W][3] as a second screen and the difference is noticeable, particularly when reading text (much crisper, less tiring on the eyes) or playing something hi-res.  For SD or DVD quality video the BenQ is fine, but 1080P or hi-res games are much, much better on the Dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been so happy with it that I even wrote a [review of my purchase][4] on Amazon, something I rarely do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One note where this misses your stated requirements: this has [DisplayPort and DVI rather than HDMI][5] - was not a concern for me (did not need sound, already had an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lcd,823-5.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=320-2676&amp;baynote_bnrank=0&amp;baynote_irrank=0&amp;~ck=baynoteSearch&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/BenQ-G2400W-24in-LCD-Monitor-review&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/customer-reviews/R3EWTQQXCIQX1F/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B005LNDPPS&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/78/122" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1060" RevisionGUID="86f750c9-e858-4069-87f5-80f6fc951b59" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:54:36.380" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1061" RevisionGUID="c5657d95-67dc-4292-b0e1-b49324d23b7a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:54:36.380" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use a bulb to project input images onto another surface." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1062" RevisionGUID="53fad518-7a67-490b-81fe-e1af212bbe29" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:55:51.713" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1063" RevisionGUID="c566f1cb-b669-49a6-9669-1a1ac064bde9" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:55:51.713" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use Musical Instrument Digital Interface implementations to communicate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1064" RevisionGUID="ed8923db-b2fe-45c8-8cff-c9f88d22a80a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:56:29.010" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1065" RevisionGUID="3c811881-ed84-4d28-af35-867342e8b1cf" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:56:29.010" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices using a specific processor architecture, like x86 or x64." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1066" RevisionGUID="04ffe9cb-453a-4af1-8644-4fbc24218572" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:57:41.293" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1067" RevisionGUID="1d12ca06-1c8d-42fd-b646-d8220196dd1b" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:57:41.293" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that are used to control multiple inputs and mix down to a single (or stereo) output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1068" RevisionGUID="c024edcd-0420-41a5-9d30-e4d4db2a0649" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:59:11.430" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="3752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1070" RevisionGUID="03aff700-7ce0-4bc2-92e9-a87a1ed2a181" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:59:37.093" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1071" RevisionGUID="0e087eb9-3f8a-474e-bfc0-5a23bc5bc5a8" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:59:37.093" UserId="8" Text="For questions about hardware that takes in one form of audio signal or connector, and output another." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3754" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1037" RevisionGUID="aac7c3f9-2c6e-4991-bc41-102c840ae813" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:59:57.900" UserId="-1" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
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  <row Id="3757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1074" RevisionGUID="e7c027d8-595a-4f94-9138-2e819a0acee3" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:01:51.540" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1075" RevisionGUID="2a6602af-a589-48e6-9e48-009b7edd5ed6" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:01:51.540" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for a device that provides a wireless hotspot access point for Internet connections." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1076" RevisionGUID="9620a40b-884b-4a25-b976-93f7310f5eb9" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:02:31.610" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1077" RevisionGUID="a222ada5-b298-472c-bea8-a9d24909d141" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:02:31.610" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for systems or parts of systems used to control the temperature of a component or  system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1078" RevisionGUID="89b7ca61-bb44-4fcf-9dcd-c44fadb0754b" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:03:01.727" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1079" RevisionGUID="d268de07-5013-468c-bbcd-fe389a477c62" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:03:01.727" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices used for development. This tag is VERY broad; DO NOT use as the only tag on your post." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1080" RevisionGUID="778a5b48-25d6-4349-a15c-3c9a5fb9ba74" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:03:51.843" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1081" RevisionGUID="9183b3ed-1434-4660-b0d4-bf12a9496742" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:03:51.843" UserId="8" Text="For questions about devices that use, accept, or output signals to or from a Digital Video Interface device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1082" RevisionGUID="ca6a0a1b-6966-4ad3-bc8a-b6b9ea8eaff1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:04:19.713" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1083" RevisionGUID="8f2f2328-c898-402b-813d-b70ae2b1f285" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:04:19.713" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for hardware used to run VMs. Broad tag: also use another, more specific tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1084" RevisionGUID="0e89ef58-fd5b-4b31-bb8d-fd9cf979cfb1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:35:29.463" UserId="832" Text="&gt; Have I missed something? Is there anything more basic than this around? Like a low power1 $20 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes.  As Dan has pointed out in his answer, a USB video adaptor fits all of your needs exactly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance, let's compare the Flashmen USB 3.0 to HDMI 1080P Video Adaptor to your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adapters like this will run a third monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have no fans or moving parts, should not produce any detectable noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They don't usually have much hardware acceleration, but the drivers do typically support video playback at 30 frames per second full screen. Some of the better USB adapters support minimal 3D using the computer's processor for the hard work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is important because you might be surprised how many programs, such as CAD or even web browsers and document viewers use 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These HDMI adapters will almost always support 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One of my concerns about these cards is power consumption. ... Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are under 5W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it can't be a purely integrated chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They don't use computer memory as video memory, and are not &quot;integrated&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a low power1 $20 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one I listed at the top is often for sale right around $20.  It's not a great piece of hardware, but if you have a price limit of $20 and are ok with the requirements (windows 7, 8, or 10) and fiddling around a little with the drivers, then it exactly fits your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need something more specialized, then of course you're going to have to compromise some of your requirements, but at the moment it appears to meet your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1056" RevisionGUID="1ade6ad8-d611-4d82-ae2c-9f9779b4d87a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:01:40.523" UserId="653" Comment="added 205 characters in body" Text="4G-LTE is the fourth generation of mobile communications technology.&#xD;&#xA;The 4G-LTE tag should be used for seeking hardware recommendations involving the use of 4G technology, such as mobile phones &amp; routers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1056" RevisionGUID="1ade6ad8-d611-4d82-ae2c-9f9779b4d87a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:01:40.523" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by 57, -1 edit id of 248" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1056" RevisionGUID="61d02bb8-a655-4136-8aec-3710ef101c97" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:01:40.523" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 70 characters in body" Text="The 4G-LTE tag should be used for seeking hardware recommendations involving the use of 4G technology, such as mobile phones &amp; routers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1055" RevisionGUID="f3deb209-a90d-45bf-8e4c-02752fe089e4" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:02:01.663" UserId="8" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="4G-LTE is the fourth generation of mobile communications technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1086" RevisionGUID="c3617277-b54c-43a1-a8a5-25912cadaef0" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:36:51.073" UserId="832" Text="Please read [this entire site](http://ronja.twibright.com/tetrapolis/) which should quickly disabuse you of the notion that the technology is simple. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reality is that high speed laser communication (ie, slow by today's standards 10mbps) is not at all trivial, and particularly over the distances you need. There are so many tradeoffs involved in the optical path alone that you could spend months or years trying to design something that would connect at all, nevermind provide a reliable link.  For instance, do you select a lower divergence, which gets more power to the end point, but means that if either end moves more than a micrometer then the connection is lost, or do you have a larger divergence which makes aiming less critical, but delivers such low power you have a hard time receiving?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's just one of many, many trade offs and losses in the optical path engineering, and doesn't even touch the necessary low noise amplifiers and electronics, nor the physical layer interface to the network(s) or computer(s) involved in the communications. This also ignores the regulations of laser emissions in a city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At any rate, if your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Laser&#xD;&#xA; * Two way communications&#xD;&#xA; * Home budget size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the answer to your question, *&quot;Do they exist?&quot;* is no." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="2fdeb993-2892-4412-a7c8-04ba6e559021" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:47:54.780" UserId="1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3777" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="926" RevisionGUID="c44b682a-72f5-44fb-b2d8-57773b35fcaf" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:58:27.727" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware that enables networked inter-device communication." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1087" RevisionGUID="e0c0e66b-6b2f-48f2-bbf3-59399c0a29e3" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:13:15.100" UserId="832" Text="&gt; Wi-Fi/LAN capabilities, able play music, Netflix, all that stuff. I don't really want any of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bluray specification requires that the player firmware is easily updated over time (mostly for copy protection features) and that bluray players include minimum functionality for internet coupled movie features. This is a simplification, you may be able to find older first generation players without networking, but I expect you'll also find they have a hard time playing some of today's newer movies and you may not be able to get updates for them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such you won't find cheap bluray players that don't include networking features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet is to search ebay and craiglist for older used bluray players in your price range.  Try to find something only a few years old, again, the much older players will probably have problems playing newer discs without some effort on your part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If I decide to bite the bullet and buy a $70+ Blu-ray player with all the bells and whistles, how easy is it to stream a Blu-ray movie over a network?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bluray specification does not permit streaming over the network.  You will not be able to find a bluray player that does this for you.  If you need something like this, you will need to set up a computer and use it to read the discs, handle the decryption, and stream the movie." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3779" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1086" RevisionGUID="8366cc86-7614-42bf-b51e-6a7ee2721339" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:31:51.797" UserId="832" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="Please read [this entire site](http://ronja.twibright.com/tetrapolis/) which should quickly disabuse you of the notion that the technology is simple. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reality is that high speed laser communication (ie, slow by today's standards 10mbps) is not at all trivial, and particularly over the distances you need. There are so many tradeoffs involved in the optical path alone that you could spend months or years trying to design something that would connect at all, nevermind provide a reliable link.  For instance, do you select a lower divergence, which gets more power to the end point, but means that if either end moves more than a micrometer then the connection is lost, or do you have a larger divergence which makes aiming less critical, but delivers such low power you have a hard time receiving?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's just one of many, many trade offs and losses in the optical path engineering, and doesn't even touch the necessary low noise amplifiers and electronics, nor the physical layer interface to the network(s) or computer(s) involved in the communications. This also ignores the regulations of laser emissions in a city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At any rate, if your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Laser communications&#xD;&#xA; * Up to 5km distance&#xD;&#xA; * Home budget size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the answer to your question, *&quot;Do they exist?&quot;* is no." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="06cb2942-c501-4d8b-940f-a95602c7125c" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:36:23.553" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="06cb2942-c501-4d8b-940f-a95602c7125c" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:36:23.553" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 577 edit id of 252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1088" RevisionGUID="ab9de681-8f81-4eb3-9593-ca616ff46143" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:58:53.817" UserId="832" Text="Using 3 I/O, you can only charlieplex 6 LEDs.  The board would require an I/O expander, which would take up space limiting the area you could place LEDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, a very functional, full color matrix LED board is available at a reasonable price from Adafruit: the [Adafruit NeoPixel Shield][1]. It's listed for under $30 right now, and requires only one digital pin.  If you plan on using all the LEDs at full brightness you'll need a fairly powerful power supply - 5V at 3A or more should do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further, the libraries are already made and included, so the interface is easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3787" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="12dd3727-79a2-40ac-8941-efb4e0cf486d" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:53:36.157" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="721" RevisionGUID="12dd3727-79a2-40ac-8941-efb4e0cf486d" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:53:36.157" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 1 edit id of 250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="f3a1db09-6c65-4d12-951b-85bb3eed5e90" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:16:51.097" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="f3a1db09-6c65-4d12-951b-85bb3eed5e90" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:16:51.097" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by -1 edit id of 256" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="5eef1daa-9207-4aa2-9b46-ab106690017b" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:16:51.097" UserId="60" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1090" RevisionGUID="f6318312-2dd6-4a80-bfa0-d41abc3e5d02" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:23:22.983" UserId="279" Text="I reccomend the [Intel i5 4690k](http://ark.intel.com/products/80811/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs $240 USD, and is significantly more powerful than your current CPU. It has 4 cores, (no hyperthreading) with a base-clock of 3.5 GHz, but is unlocked and could be OC'ed to 3.9 GHz. 6 MB of cache, and the TDP is 88W (which I believe is actually lower than your current CPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets or exceeds the system requirements of every game you listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BF4](http://www.battlefield.com/battlefield-4/pc) recommends any quadcore intel CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Star Wars battlefront](https://www.origin.com/en-us/store/buy/star-wars-battlefront/pc-download/base-game/standard-edition) recommends an i5 6600, which has nearly identical specs, except for the lower base clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Evolve](http://store.steampowered.com/app/273350/) recommends an [i7 920](http://ark.intel.com/products/37147/Intel-Core-i7-920-Processor-8M-Cache-2_66-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI), which has twice the number of threads, but a significantly lower clock speed (2.66 GHz). I'm not sure how well Evolve utilizes the extra multi-threading capabilities, but it's probably safe to assume it will run well. (At least, as well as it can run. It's still very buggy from what I have heard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that all of these games are far more CPU-intensive, it should also easily handle photoshop, unity, music streaming, movies and browsing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="15f203b3-0e08-41e1-971f-9a17c73226f9" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:53:48.063" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="15f203b3-0e08-41e1-971f-9a17c73226f9" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:53:48.063" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="9afe4bb1-c2e2-4553-bb95-4db66acb482e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:54:20.443" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="684" RevisionGUID="9afe4bb1-c2e2-4553-bb95-4db66acb482e" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:54:20.443" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="d5742c24-1ca5-4b79-b0a4-c55c463ff527" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:55:08.293" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3798" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="458" RevisionGUID="d5742c24-1ca5-4b79-b0a4-c55c463ff527" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:55:08.293" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 251" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3799" PostHistoryTypeId="9" PostId="419" RevisionGUID="bd26d5af-32a2-4a0e-8228-bd27cc73a3de" CreationDate="2015-11-04T18:14:18.533" UserId="367" Comment="Rollback to [8a8d1a0f-2496-4681-af9a-3ad47e207c3b]" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1091" RevisionGUID="315c6abb-8deb-435c-8d7c-a77dcda8112a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:33:03.123" UserId="704" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    chassis: Corsair 650D&#xD;&#xA;    mobo: Asus P5Q Deluxe&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;    gfx: Radeon R9 290&#xD;&#xA;    psu: Corsair 750W&#xD;&#xA;    mem: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to keep chassis and gfx card for a new setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a motherboard recommendation which will handle Intel i5 4690K CPU and will allows me to keep that new setup for another next 4-5 years at least (upgrade CPU, upgrade gfx card, etc), ability to OC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read that anything on Z97 will be fine but there are too many options to go for and I have no clue which one will have longer life span (BIOS updates, better support etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price something below $250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1091" RevisionGUID="315c6abb-8deb-435c-8d7c-a77dcda8112a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:33:03.123" UserId="704" Text="Motherboard recommendation for new casual gaming setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1091" RevisionGUID="315c6abb-8deb-435c-8d7c-a77dcda8112a" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:33:03.123" UserId="704" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1092" RevisionGUID="9265b4f1-5d08-482d-93fc-d40e11dce648" CreationDate="2015-11-04T20:29:10.703" UserId="838" Text="When it comes to gaming CPU recommendations, take a look at [Tom's Hardware's Best CPUs for the Money][1] which provides well-founded recommendations for all price ranges. In your case, the Core i5-6500 is a good bet if you aren't interested in overclocking, or the Core i5-6600K if you are. They're both based on Skylake, the latest architecture from Intel, and drops into the LGA 1151-socket, so is it as modern as it gets today. Core i5-4690K is based on Haswell, it has similar specs but uses the older LGA-1150 platform which is being phased out in favor of LGA-1151 and Skylake.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpus,3986.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="4ba2cb4c-673e-4b18-abcc-4e77e960c748" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:41:37.467" UserId="20" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD. Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km, provided you can modify them: [electronics.stackexchange.com](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/) should be able to help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper still is [Ronja (Reasonable Optical Near Joint Access)](http://hackaday.com/2005/06/13/ronja-optical-data-link/), at 60 USD + 70 man hours for a 10Mbps optical communication link at distances of up to 1.4km. [Lasers](http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Transceiver/) instead of LEDs might double that range to [3.0 km](http://ronja.twibright.com/slides/ronja_wsfii.pdf), [or more if licensed or reckless](http://www.lasersafetyfacts.com/resources/Laser-hazard-distance-chart.pdf).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best and cheapest option would be [WokFi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WokFi):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi antennas are fabricated out of commonly available concave metal&#xD;&#xA;&gt; kitchen dishes or dish covers (which need not be perfectly parabolic);&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Asian woks are favored because they have shapes closest to parabolic.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A commercial Wi-Fi antenna, usually a USB Wi-Fi dongle, is suspended&#xD;&#xA;&gt; in front of the dish, attached by cable to the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![Medium WokFi setup][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi gains are typically 10+ dB, with range boosts, thus can be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 16-32 times over a bare USB adapter. **Ranges (LoS) are typically 3–5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; km**, although an aligned pair of similar point-to-point transceiver&#xD;&#xA;&gt; setups may approach 10 km over a clear path. In addition, certain&#xD;&#xA;&gt; improved WokFi antennas, and antennas made using surplus 2-foot to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3-foot diameter round or oval satellite TV dishes, allow even far&#xD;&#xA;&gt; greater range, up to 20 km.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Jb61h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="1042" RevisionGUID="f7fd4f4b-09c3-4344-b16c-70e0263cffa5" CreationDate="2015-11-04T22:19:19.967" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3808" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="2d21b162-33dc-4448-b77f-ba9d6fbb89db" CreationDate="2015-11-05T00:28:45.713" UserId="836" Comment="Added relevant tags. [Edit made by a bot: ping @ArtOfCode if this is totally wrong.]" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="2d21b162-33dc-4448-b77f-ba9d6fbb89db" CreationDate="2015-11-05T00:28:45.713" Comment="Proposed by 836 approved by 60, 533 edit id of 254" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1050" RevisionGUID="6fed11d7-1ded-4ee9-9c71-db1008023c3c" CreationDate="2015-11-05T00:36:03.537" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3811" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="9af35ad2-a52d-417b-99f4-580fc261d2b6" CreationDate="2015-11-05T03:57:10.017" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;set-top-box&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3812" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="296" RevisionGUID="99bcc616-8a04-4a01-b141-c66f5403e3fe" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:07:57.180" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3813" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="291" RevisionGUID="9ffe509a-bb2c-4f29-9778-fbe415583ccc" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:12:54.873" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="996" RevisionGUID="caf879e5-7c1d-4a6a-b4f2-556af6087b90" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:19:03.430" UserId="155" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="For questions about the smaller sibling of the regular-sized SD card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1094" RevisionGUID="122abec2-a6df-435a-b3a0-0d5d4799dbbb" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:20:30.200" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1095" RevisionGUID="84fb8701-f26a-40f1-bd98-53fe74cf1323" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:20:30.200" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the extended capacity version of the SD card that allows for greater capacities and transfer speeds." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="998" RevisionGUID="8fbc907b-4287-40ac-9651-96c9d049de8d" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:21:19.327" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; added 84 characters in body" Text="For questions about any type of memory card (i.e. not USB flash drives): SD, SDHC, SDXC, microSD, etc. Use this tag by itself if your question concerns more than one kind of memory card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3818" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="288" RevisionGUID="0f623887-e848-41e2-9cfd-b6ec53d101cc" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:23:36.277" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1096" RevisionGUID="23a4adad-5530-4ab9-9440-a3cf28f8032b" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:31:02.310" UserId="822" Text="I would not use wireless because wireless will be too erratic performance for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, use a couple of POE cameras, two long cat5 cables, two POE injectors and a switch or a POE switch, and a laptop to do the recording.  All of this would run off a 150W inverter which can run off a car battery.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Camera $100 NZ/each http://www.cdlnz.com/index.html?do=viewproduct&amp;p=LAN080&amp;code=NFC31-IR   These are 720p HD, so the footage is 1280x720 and is just under 1 megapixel.  Webcams tend to be 640x480 at 0.3 megapixel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;POE switch $60 NZ http://www.trademe.co.nz/975329444  you'll find something on ebay to do this.&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Netgear has a cheap 5 port swith model GS205 which is POE, $35 NZ  http://www.trademe.co.nz/977028525&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cable, stranded cat5, 30c/metre or $100/roll of 1000 feet.  http://www.cdlnz.com/index.html?do=viewproduct&amp;p=NC105&amp;code=C-C5E-ST%20R   Ethernet is up to 100 metres from the switch, but you can push to 120 metres or so.  If you cut it too long, just trim off 5 metres and use that for making flyleads later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crimps for the ends $10 NZ   The tools cost a bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inverter to give mains power from a 12V source  $40 NZ  http://www.cdlnz.com/index.html?do=viewproduct&amp;p=UPS600&amp;code=IPS-250&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fully charged car battery - Best to bring a spare, or use one in your car.  Depending on condition and load you may get anything up to an hour before its too flat to start your car.  You can leave the engine idling, but this will use fuel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All up thats about $410, but you have a lot of parts that can be reused or onsold.   You might be able to borrow some of it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't see how you'd do it for $50.  You'd be limited to two cheap USB webcams attached to a laptop, and you would have a maximum of 10 metres between them even using active USB booster cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Third option might be to use two action cameras, set them up and record on both, then stand in the middle and use a big clapper board to make a sound spike for synchronisation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No matter what you do you'll need to find some software to combine the imagery, and something like google cardboard video player to screen it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1097" RevisionGUID="26b36dae-575e-445c-8c2a-21be7a1a2314" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:48:20.957" UserId="203" Text="Since you are planning to play a game that require 4 cores, and also have a severely limited budget, I'm going to recommend a AMD CPU, on the FM2+ socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Athlon X4 860K][1] is a Steamroller based 4 core, 2 module CMT design. It has no iGPU, meaning its TDP is not shared. The newer Steamroller cores are quite a bit faster than the old K10 based Phenoms, though the CMT will mean float applications using the full 4 cores will not improve as much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why the 860K? It's relatively new, but uses a established platform with cheap DDR3 RAM. You can get a motherboard with all the bells and whistles with Skylake, but I suspect that won't matter as much to you when you can't actually play the game on a dual core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How fast a processor is used to depend mostly on clock speed. This is not the case any more, however, because clock speeds have effectively hit a brick wall, and each new generation more or less sticks to the 3-5 GHz range. Core count, while important, can only be used in multi threaded applications. What modern day CPUs depend on is the IPC and instruction set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC is the number of instructions it can execute per clock cycle. With the advent of Superscalar and MIMD processors, this number has exceeded 1. AMD's current architectures only have around 60% of Intel's Haswell, which is why you see the higher clocks to compensate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The instruction sets matter as well, but it ins't really something you can choose. Windows only works on x86-64. What you need to look for are instruction set extensions, such as SSE and AVX, that are relevant to the things you do. ARM CPUs have far higher IPC, but because they use a RISC ISA, rather than the CISC x86-64, the real world performance is lower. Really though, in desktop gaming, all you're going to use is the x86-64, and the instruction set extensions won't matter that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.funtech.si/si/vsi-oddelki/komp/procesorji-cpu/amd-fm2/37138/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1091" RevisionGUID="48418e3a-ad0b-4c02-8f24-3004e2edd271" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:01:25.050" UserId="1" Comment="Make list a little more readable" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair 650D chassis&#xD;&#xA;- Asus P5Q Deluxe motherboard&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Radeon R9 290 GPU&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair 750W PSU&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to keep chassis and gfx card for a new setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a motherboard recommendation which will handle Intel i5 4690K CPU and will allows me to keep that new setup for another next 4-5 years at least (upgrade CPU, upgrade gfx card, etc), ability to OC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read that anything on Z97 will be fine but there are too many options to go for and I have no clue which one will have longer life span (BIOS updates, better support etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price something below $250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="b488cad6-7d60-46ab-9f7c-69b43475c85d" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:04:01.383" UserId="1" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Recently I started a study on long term context of a user. For that I concentrate on Android Wear specifically; I am looking into heart rate sensors. My goal is to map the users heart rate over a extended period. After collection I would then focus on error correction and data reduction, resulting in an analysis specific to the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make this possible I would need 'continuous readings from a smart wearable'; meaning that i need at least a heart rate reading every 5-10 minutes. Since I am new to the smart watch/wearables I thought I'd ask a few questions here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I am looking into all sorts of wearables. For example Fitbit, Polar etc for more enthusiastic users. But the internet is huge, and I am looking for some opinions on what platform to choose. Currently I am looking into Fitbit, Polar (with a personal app for this project), and an android wear device (currently moto 360). Please recommend one of these models. I would particularly like details of any programming interface (how easy is it to retrieve data) and strong positives and negatives of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I am looking into the Huawei watch, but this model does not offer an always on heart rate sensor. Would it be possible to produce an app that measures a pulse every 5 minutes and sends that data to an app on a phone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind I need to access the heart rate data. So if there isn't a platform available to receive the data besides a native app, it won't be of use. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="b488cad6-7d60-46ab-9f7c-69b43475c85d" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:04:01.383" UserId="1" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Wearables for tracking heart rate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1098" RevisionGUID="a0c8557c-525b-433e-9b03-1e836c1e0bc8" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:45:31.910" UserId="840" Text="How about the Sony Walkman NWZ-F886. It is a full android device minus the phone function:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.sony.de/electronics/walkman/nwz-f886&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or the older Sony NWZZ1060.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1099" RevisionGUID="04f0753b-1fce-466e-af0b-d63fd2d50c88" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:58:06.970" UserId="737" Text="There is quite a list actually, not popular since mp3 player's market is going down, even the latest iPod was at a competitive price (according to apple standards).&#xD;&#xA;I'd go with the **samsung galaxy player 5**, since it's android 5.0 and has a better batery life and more functionalities (needed or not) and a **microSD** extension slot. next would be **walkman Z series**, much shorter battery life, and only android 4.3 but the walkman sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: http://www.geckoandfly.com/10095/ipod-touch-alternatives-sony-walkman-vs-samsung-galazy-vs-philips-gogear/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1098" RevisionGUID="e16b9484-92c0-48d7-b0d0-d0dfd1eca562" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:13:00.950" UserId="840" Comment="added 387 characters in body" Text="How about the Sony Walkman NWZ-F886. It is a full android device minus the phone function: [http://www.sony.de/electronics/walkman/nwz-f886]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Device is a low to mid range android device. It has 32GB of Space and should be good for playing music and videos.&#xD;&#xA;One bad thing about it, it the rather bad display resolution (854 x 480 pixels).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the price of the device, which is quite high (around 300€). To be honest, i would recommend a phone in airplane mode over this, but if you just want a device without phone, this is one of your options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="257" RevisionGUID="a3c83fc7-a38e-4e45-ab5f-7183997fc338" CreationDate="2015-11-05T07:18:15.130" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="717" RevisionGUID="e7bc3457-d4c3-4d37-a799-ad844c49991b" CreationDate="2015-11-05T07:21:35.223" UserId="155" Comment="removed summary because it repeats excerpt" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="718" RevisionGUID="d9738940-73fe-44ba-92b1-f0bd8d72a60f" CreationDate="2015-11-05T07:21:35.223" UserId="155" Comment="removed summary because it repeats excerpt" Text="A phone that is not connected to a landline or home connection. Use this tag when asking about mobile phones that are not considered smartphones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="337" RevisionGUID="f397f8bf-0e69-4812-9cef-22169f982024" CreationDate="2015-11-05T07:26:04.223" UserId="155" Comment="shortened and reformatted list for readability" Text="In Asia, in particular Thailand and [India][1], there are a lot of cheap and popular dual SIM phones. In fact most people seem to have dual SIM phones - I'm not particularly sure why, but I think multiple boyfriends/girlfriends may be partly the reason. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are all quite similar to the good old Nokia 3310, that is to say, a physical keyboard, and a small, non-touch, screen. These are often around the $40 mark or less, so well within your price bracket. The Nokia 107, for example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nokia 107][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some others are the Nokia 206, 208, 215, 220, 222, 225, 301, and 515.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is by no means the full list, but as you can see there are plenty to choose from. Whether these models are available in your country is another question, as they are obviously targeted towards the emerging nascent mobile phone markets, where lost cost is important. In more affluent countries, these may be considered &quot;throw-away&quot; phones, but they do meet your criteria, and do make for great holiday phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, because there is no touch screen and a smaller screen, the battery life is longer on these phones in general, and only require a charge every other day, unlike most smart phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pricebaba.com/mobile/pricelist/nokia-price-list?brand%5B%5D=Nokia&amp;filter=true&amp;sort=1&amp;lpage=4&amp;lproduct=9638&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TM4T1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="aea60d0f-b985-4088-a96b-1c4bb0fc8f5e" CreationDate="2015-11-05T10:11:13.357" UserId="753" Text="I will answer my own question.&#xD;&#xA;I end-up buying a Sandisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16go (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC run more than smoothly on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 go seems to be a good size. OSMC take less than 300mo but the metadata, thumbnails, artworks and addons are also stored on the sd card.&#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (20go) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same r/w speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="927ef6d0-ab94-4003-b95e-cd99b12ee8cf" CreationDate="2015-11-05T11:40:27.357" UserId="8" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I will answer my own question.&#xD;&#xA;I end-up buying a SanDisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16 GB (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC run more than smoothly on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 go seems to be a good size. OSMC take less than 300 MB but the metadata, thumbnails, artworks and add-ons are also stored on the SD card.&#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (20 GB) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same R/W speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1104" RevisionGUID="bb3ca313-f154-443e-8779-f0dfc7ddc16b" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:31:14.797" UserId="769" Text="I am currently using the Asus Maximus Ranger vii motherboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus Maximus Ranger vii Z97 board][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is great for the price and has alot of overclocking features which are very easy to use. I am also running this with the Intel i5 4690K, as @Niklas Holm mentions there will be a very low chance of another LGA 1150 CPU being released.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, some investigation has been carried out on the performance differences [between the Haswell CPUs and Skylake][2], and they show minimal increase in performance. So I definately think that for the next 3 years at least this set up will do you fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This Mobo is priced at around $150-$200, usually towards the upper end.(Being replaced by Ranger viii for Z170 so prices will drop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another choice is the [Asus Z97 - PRO Gamer][3] which is another solid choice, however with less overclocking features. This is priced at $150 on amazon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/P4qjP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Haswell-vs-Skylake-S-i7-4790K-vs-i7-6700K-641/&#xD;&#xA;  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="7bf917ab-1133-486f-a560-59a35079ef3b" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:51:47.887" UserId="753" Comment="edited body" Text="I will answer my own question.&#xD;&#xA;I end-up buying a SanDisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16 GB (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC run more than smoothly on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB seems to be a good size. OSMC take less than 300 MB but the metadata, thumbnails, artworks and add-ons are also stored on the SD card.&#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (20 GB) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same R/W speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1105" RevisionGUID="360969ed-14e9-4742-9ded-8ef5b9695450" CreationDate="2015-11-05T17:05:35.187" UserId="803" Text="The title pretty much says it all. I'm assembling a budget gaming PC and decided for an AMD Athlon X4 860K processor and now I need to chose a motherboard for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My total budget for the PC is €500-600 ($550-660).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using my PC to play games such as the Fallout series, the Elder scrolls series, League of Legends, Crusader Kings 2 and such. I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&quot;&gt;Fallout 4&lt;/a&gt; as a benchmark for performance. Ideally I'd like the computer to also be able to eventually run Elder Scrolls 6, but it'll probably take some 3-6 years before they make that one, which makes system requirements difficult to predict.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case it's somehow relevant, I'm thinking about using the opportunity to switch to Linux and Wine instead of spending money on another edition of Windows.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to start out with 8 or 16GB RAM and have the option to upgrade to 32GB in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated graphics card would be nice to have as backup if my GPU fails. This is mainly a concern because I might reuse the 7 year old GeForce 9600 GT from my previous computer to save costs now and get a new graphics card as the first major upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll probably get all the components from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funtech.si/si/konfigurator/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It's a Slovenian website so there might be a bit of a language barrier for most of you. I tried running it through Google translate, but that broke the configurator tool. Essentially the tool works by selecting components from the dropdown menu, starting with a processor, then motherboard, then everything else. &quot;Matična plošča&quot; is motherboard. The components themselves have standard international names.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The website lists the following motherboards as available (from least to most expensive):&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1) ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2) ASRock FM2A78M-HD+, DDR3, SATA3, HDMI, USB3, FM2/FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3) GIGABYTE GA-F2A78M-D3H S-FM2+ mATX &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;4) Gigabyte F2A88XM-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;5) GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;6) GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H 3.0 FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;7) Gigabyte F2A88X-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;8) ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;9) ASRock FM2A78M-ITX+, AMD A78 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;10) GIGABYTE G1.SNIPER A88X, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ ATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The description of numbers 1 and 6 says that the motherboard is intended for AMD processors that have an integrated GPU, which the Athlon X4 860K has not. I'm guessing that means I should probably pick one of the other eight, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to hardware and have no idea which one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So finally, my question is which of the listed motherboards would be best for my needs? Or would you suggest a model not on the list?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1105" RevisionGUID="360969ed-14e9-4742-9ded-8ef5b9695450" CreationDate="2015-11-05T17:05:35.187" UserId="803" Text="Choosing motherboard for a budget gaming PC using AMD Athlon X4 860K processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1105" RevisionGUID="360969ed-14e9-4742-9ded-8ef5b9695450" CreationDate="2015-11-05T17:05:35.187" UserId="803" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1105" RevisionGUID="b46923ee-93a1-4728-8a7f-89486638a7cc" CreationDate="2015-11-05T19:14:51.070" UserId="1" Comment="Format list" Text="The title pretty much says it all. I'm assembling a budget gaming PC and decided for an AMD Athlon X4 860K processor and now I need to chose a motherboard for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My total budget for the PC is €500-600 ($550-660).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using my PC to play games such as the Fallout series, the Elder scrolls series, League of Legends, Crusader Kings 2 and such. I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&quot;&gt;Fallout 4&lt;/a&gt; as a benchmark for performance. Ideally I'd like the computer to also be able to eventually run Elder Scrolls 6, but it'll probably take some 3-6 years before they make that one, which makes system requirements difficult to predict.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case it's somehow relevant, I'm thinking about using the opportunity to switch to Linux and Wine instead of spending money on another edition of Windows.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to start out with 8 or 16GB RAM and have the option to upgrade to 32GB in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated graphics card would be nice to have as backup if my GPU fails. This is mainly a concern because I might reuse the 7 year old GeForce 9600 GT from my previous computer to save costs now and get a new graphics card as the first major upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll probably get all the components from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funtech.si/si/konfigurator/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It's a Slovenian website so there might be a bit of a language barrier for most of you. I tried running it through Google translate, but that broke the configurator tool. Essentially the tool works by selecting components from the dropdown menu, starting with a processor, then motherboard, then everything else. &quot;Matična plošča&quot; is motherboard. The components themselves have standard international names.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The website lists the following motherboards as available (from least to most expensive):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2. ASRock FM2A78M-HD+, DDR3, SATA3, HDMI, USB3, FM2/FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3. GIGABYTE GA-F2A78M-D3H S-FM2+ mATX &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;4. Gigabyte F2A88XM-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;5. GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;6. GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H 3.0 FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;7. Gigabyte F2A88X-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;8. ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;9. ASRock FM2A78M-ITX+, AMD A78 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;10. GIGABYTE G1.SNIPER A88X, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ ATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The description of numbers 1 and 6 says that the motherboard is intended for AMD processors that have an integrated GPU, which the Athlon X4 860K has not. I'm guessing that means I should probably pick one of the other eight, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to hardware and have no idea which one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So finally, my question is which of the listed motherboards would be best for my needs? Or would you suggest a model not on the list?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="935" RevisionGUID="30e1d4ff-d752-4ebb-9879-bf43252c8fd6" CreationDate="2015-11-05T20:40:45.723" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1107" RevisionGUID="0f2a1ea2-7b57-4834-9173-02838276f564" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:08:49.950" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a device that would allow me to send mouse clicks to a laptop running Windows 7 by contracting abdominal muscles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1107" RevisionGUID="0f2a1ea2-7b57-4834-9173-02838276f564" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:08:49.950" UserId="40" Text="Sending mouse clicks by contracting abdominal muscles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1107" RevisionGUID="0f2a1ea2-7b57-4834-9173-02838276f564" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:08:49.950" UserId="40" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1107" RevisionGUID="655a2b03-f572-4e19-930e-3ce1bd2bb254" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:13:11.590" UserId="40" Comment="added 292 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a device that would allow me to send mouse clicks to a laptop by contracting abdominal muscles. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it can detect when abdominal muscles stay contracted, in which case one can configure to either send click at regular interval (i.e. every X miliseconds), or hold left click down to allow for drag and drop, area selection, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price, operating system requirements, and geographical availability is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't find the [Makey Makey](http://makeymakey.com/) convenient for that use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3866" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1108" RevisionGUID="4503077f-e125-4fad-9831-798d0bd0b8b7" CreationDate="2015-11-06T00:49:05.640" UserId="844" Text="I own Dell 5548 and it has a Full HD touchscreen, a very good quality screen, I'm very pleased with it as a Web Designer and as a Developer. Of course, its color reproduction is not perfect, but quite decent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only negative issue I can point out is the bad battery life with Windows 10 (4 hours instead of 6 with Win 8.1). Ah and if you carry around the laptop with the lid closed in the backpack you would have the marks from the keyboard on the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1109" RevisionGUID="b64f0ef4-c794-47c4-a91f-c4f279d2ff30" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:03:04.397" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the [Gigabyte F2A88XM-D3H][1], which is an A88X motherboard, which should offer most of the modern features, with 4 RAM slots, which means an upgrade path to 32 GB of DDR3, and 4+2 phases which makes for decent overclocking headroom. The more expensive Gigabyte G1.SNIPER or Asrock Extreme6 bring only limited benefit, except more bells and whistles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must admit the budget isn't nearly as restrictive as I initially thought, since you intend to reuse your GPU, which is the most expensive part of a gaming system, and you would likely have money to spare for extras like a Windows licence or a SSD. You don't quite have enough for an i5 though, which is the next step up on the intel side, and I hesitate to recommend the AM3+ platform, so if you have any leftover budget, I suggest you save it up for your GPU, or get a better cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The motherboard supports the Athlon 860K][2], though if it ships with a old revision of the BIOS , you may have to send it back to get it flashed with a F6 or later. Be sure to communicate with the store to see if they'll do it for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboards these days don't generally come with integrated graphics. If you want one, you'll have to spend [€20-40 pounds extra for an APU][3]. Those will perform worse because of the shared TDP, but with DX12, they may be able to help out a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.funtech.si/si/vsi-oddelki/komp/maticne-plosce/amd-fm2/30933&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gigabyte.com.au/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4716&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.funtech.si/si/vsi-oddelki/komp/procesorji-cpu/amd-fm2/36224" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1110" RevisionGUID="b3af718d-be66-48d1-be14-70d6c21d96d5" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:38:55.980" UserId="845" Text="I bought this PC from best buy a few months ago, found it works pretty well on older games like Assassin's Creed II but starts to lack only in brotherhood. Here is the link to the pc:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-black/5574049.p?id=1219143550897&amp;skuId=5574049&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And here is my PC Part Picker List:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TpxwBm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(please not that some of the items on the list are just place holders because they did not have the actual part that is in the computer...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to upgrade to the NVIDIA GTX 970 ASUS STRIX edition and my power supply is 400 watt atx. I put all the specs into PC part picker and it says that the estimated wattage is 349 Watts for my PC after the upgrade. So, is 50W enough headroom for my upgrade? If not, how many watts would a decent amount of headroom be?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1110" RevisionGUID="b3af718d-be66-48d1-be14-70d6c21d96d5" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:38:55.980" UserId="845" Text="Graphics card upgrade possible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1110" RevisionGUID="b3af718d-be66-48d1-be14-70d6c21d96d5" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:38:55.980" UserId="845" Text="&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1110" RevisionGUID="3135152c-c000-42b1-8cf1-31098235dd63" CreationDate="2015-11-06T05:51:48.730" UserId="155" Comment="inline links; capitalization; added tag" Text="I bought this PC from Best Buy a few months ago, found it works pretty well on older games like Assassin's Creed II but starts to lack only in Brotherhood. [Here is the the PC](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-black/5574049.p?id=1219143550897&amp;skuId=5574049) and here is my [PC Part Picker List](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TpxwBm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(please not that some of the items on the list are just place holders because they did not have the actual part that is in the computer...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to upgrade to the NVIDIA GTX 970 ASUS STRIX edition and my power supply is 400 Watt ATX. I put all the specs into PC Part Picker and it says that the estimated wattage is 349 Watts for my PC after the upgrade. So, is 50W enough headroom for my upgrade? If not, how many watts would a decent amount of headroom be?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1110" RevisionGUID="3135152c-c000-42b1-8cf1-31098235dd63" CreationDate="2015-11-06T05:51:48.730" UserId="155" Comment="inline links; capitalization; added tag" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1099" RevisionGUID="34ed509a-2ebb-47ea-b31a-34a413e998c0" CreationDate="2015-11-06T05:57:17.607" UserId="737" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="There is quite a list actually, not popular since mp3 player's market is going down, even the latest iPod was at a competitive price (according to apple standards).&#xD;&#xA;I'd go with the **samsung galaxy player 5**, has a better batery life and more functionalities (needed or not) and a **microSD** extension slot. next would be **walkman Z series**, much shorter battery life, but the walkman sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: http://www.geckoandfly.com/10095/ipod-touch-alternatives-sony-walkman-vs-samsung-galazy-vs-philips-gogear/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nevertheless it'd be better to get a good phone and ignore the sim fonctions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1098" RevisionGUID="edb351f9-a55e-4625-bb32-2bf70e6270e5" CreationDate="2015-11-06T06:25:20.793" UserId="840" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="How about the Sony Walkman NWZ-F886. It is a full android device minus the phone function: [http://www.sony.de/electronics/walkman/nwz-f886 - german link, can't find it on international homepage]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Device is a low to mid range android device. It has 32GB of Space and should be good for playing music and videos.&#xD;&#xA;One bad thing about it, it the rather bad display resolution (854 x 480 pixels).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the price of the device, which is quite high (around 300€). To be honest, i would recommend a phone in airplane mode over this, but if you just want a device without phone, this is one of your options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1105" RevisionGUID="755b89b9-9cdb-4e03-ad0d-e04b6851299a" CreationDate="2015-11-06T06:37:50.923" UserId="803" Comment="Added note about not needing to play Fallout 4 on release." Text="The title pretty much says it all. I'm assembling a budget gaming PC and decided for an AMD Athlon X4 860K processor and now I need to chose a motherboard for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My total budget for the PC is €500-600 ($550-660).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using my PC to play games such as the Fallout series, the Elder scrolls series, League of Legends, Crusader Kings 2 and such. I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&quot;&gt;Fallout 4&lt;/a&gt; as a benchmark for performance. Ideally I'd like the computer to also be able to eventually run Elder Scrolls 6, but it'll probably take some 3-6 years before they make that one, which makes system requirements difficult to predict.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case it's somehow relevant, I'm thinking about using the opportunity to switch to Linux and Wine instead of spending money on another edition of Windows.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to start out with 8 or 16GB RAM and have the option to upgrade to 32GB in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated graphics card would be nice to have as backup if my GPU fails. This is mainly a concern because I might reuse the 7 year old GeForce 9600 GT from my previous computer to save costs now and get a new graphics card as the first major upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware the old GPU will be unable to run Fallout 4, but I'm not planning to play the game at release. I intend to get it during a Steam sale by which time I'll have also upgraded to a modern GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll probably get all the components from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funtech.si/si/konfigurator/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It's a Slovenian website so there might be a bit of a language barrier for most of you. I tried running it through Google translate, but that broke the configurator tool. Essentially the tool works by selecting components from the dropdown menu, starting with a processor, then motherboard, then everything else. &quot;Matična plošča&quot; is motherboard. The components themselves have standard international names.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The website lists the following motherboards as available (from least to most expensive):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2. ASRock FM2A78M-HD+, DDR3, SATA3, HDMI, USB3, FM2/FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3. GIGABYTE GA-F2A78M-D3H S-FM2+ mATX &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;4. Gigabyte F2A88XM-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;5. GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;6. GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H 3.0 FM2+ mATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;7. Gigabyte F2A88X-D3H, AMD A88X Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;8. ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+, AMD A88 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;9. ASRock FM2A78M-ITX+, AMD A78 Mainboard - FM2+&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;10. GIGABYTE G1.SNIPER A88X, DDR3, SATA3, USB3, HDMI FM2+ ATX&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The description of numbers 1 and 6 says that the motherboard is intended for AMD processors that have an integrated GPU, which the Athlon X4 860K has not. I'm guessing that means I should probably pick one of the other eight, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to hardware and have no idea which one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So finally, my question is which of the listed motherboards would be best for my needs? Or would you suggest a model not on the list?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="cb8942e7-4282-4bf5-acb4-8aa4e59bc274" CreationDate="2015-11-06T08:36:08.820" UserId="638" Comment="added 218 characters in body" Text="My old router died, and I want to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if I have to change the router, I want to try to see if I can do a setup like: Router + External Hard Drive + an android application maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically want to have a one-way sync of our pictures (my wife and I) to a HDD that is connected to the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sync would be through wi-fi, something like google is doing right now for me, but this time I would like to be in control of the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: what to look for in a router? I wouldn't want to spend too much, but I don't even know what to look for. Is it enough if the router has USB port on it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if there are routers that come with a special android app, or I can just try to look into some &quot;universal&quot; software like [this one][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: NAS device seems like a good idea, but it seems too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;I bought a RT-N18U router, and it has [this application][2] specifically made for it, we'll see how it works, I'll let you guys know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bv.wifisync&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asustek.aicloud" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1111" RevisionGUID="ce8088e0-fad5-45aa-a832-ca884242bab7" CreationDate="2015-11-06T09:29:56.690" UserId="737" Text="Your usage should be around 380-390W actually.&#xD;&#xA;Technically speaking the 400W PSU should be enough but you'd better have more headroom a PSU of 450W at the least and 550W to be futur proof." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1116" RevisionGUID="406776a9-aa24-4b65-9175-39c1a596ced1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T13:08:17.163" UserId="66" Text="As others have pointed out, most touchscreen Android MP3 players have been discontinued due to the vast majority of people owning smartphones. However, there are a few you can find. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [This](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMAHXUI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EbkpwbHJM0ZKP) is marketed as a &quot;tablet&quot;, but it only has a 4.3&quot; screen - smaller than most modern cell phones. It runs Android 4.0, and has an SD slot to upgrade the capacity (it looks like to 32GB). However, it has fairly slow internals, and does not come with the Google play store, just the Amazon App Store. There are a handful of similar &quot;tablets&quot; avaliable on Amazon as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - There are a couple of [Android Sony Walkmans](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TOBFZUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xskpwbW3TB9TT) out there, but they are very expensive,  [because they are aimed at more audiophiles](http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-walkman-nw-zx2/) than regular users. There is an  [older version](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FF071I4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wukpwbZM2PZDN) for sale as well, but it appears to have never been sold in the US and is only avaliable post-import.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would have to go along with the others and recommend a phone inactivated. You should be able to get an older &quot;flagship&quot; model (e.g. Samsung Galaxy S3/4, LG G2/3,etc) for a couple hundred dollars, or go for a lower-end android for about $100ish. With the decrease in demand for phone-sized  Android MP3 players, the options are just not much to choose from." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="61ef5377-9316-4ac6-861d-54d1089682ef" CreationDate="2015-11-06T14:28:47.947" UserId="164" Text="I do a lot of camping and backpacking, so I would find a Portable Solar Cell to power my smartphone and laptop to be extremely useful. I would like the solar cell to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have both 19 volt, and 12 volt output&#xD;&#xA; - Have 2.4 Amp USB&#xD;&#xA; - Weigh less than 10 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Fold in a way that makes it fit into a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Cost under $200- this is the maximum I am willing to spend- no budging&#xD;&#xA; - I would also appreciate it supporting a 90 watt power cord like [this][1] one, as I would rather not buy another adapter.&#xD;&#xA; - **Optional**: Have an on-board battery of over 10000 MAh.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dell-Computer-469-4033-90w-Ac-Adapter-W-6.56-Pwr-Pc-For-Inspiron-lat-vos-xps-Laptop/41790117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="61ef5377-9316-4ac6-861d-54d1089682ef" CreationDate="2015-11-06T14:28:47.947" UserId="164" Text="Recommendations on portable solar cell" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="61ef5377-9316-4ac6-861d-54d1089682ef" CreationDate="2015-11-06T14:28:47.947" UserId="164" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="1df29f56-5f0f-4bfc-9bcb-6c607742789b" CreationDate="2015-11-06T14:38:23.230" UserId="164" Comment="edited body" Text="I do a lot of camping and backpacking, so I would find a Portable Solar Cell to power my smartphone and laptop to be extremely useful. I would like the solar cell to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have both 19 volt, and 12 volt output&#xD;&#xA; - Have 2.4 AMP USB&#xD;&#xA; - Weigh less than 10 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Fold in a way that makes it fit into a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Cost under $200- this is the maximum I am willing to spend- no budging&#xD;&#xA; - I would also appreciate it supporting a 90 watt power cord like [this][1] one, as I would rather not buy another adapter.&#xD;&#xA; - **Optional**: Have an on-board battery of over 10000 MAh.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dell-Computer-469-4033-90w-Ac-Adapter-W-6.56-Pwr-Pc-For-Inspiron-lat-vos-xps-Laptop/41790117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1118" RevisionGUID="dac55934-ad39-454a-8251-397f7fe5f6d0" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:53:34.577" UserId="850" Text="I have a customer who is looking to extend the output of a weather station into a second aircraft hangar at an airport.  The vendor has approved doing this, but says that any solution we implement must be done &quot;after the monitor.&quot; The output is a single VGA port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have explained that this means the signal must go from the station to the primary display without any interruption in signal.  I am looking for a way to use an ethernet based or even IP based extender in this configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does a monitor with a video-out passthrough exist? The requirement for uninterrupted signal to the main display leaves out the use of a splitter device, but I am wondering if they will allow a passive Y-Cable.  We are checking on that, but I am looking for alternatives if that falls through." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1118" RevisionGUID="dac55934-ad39-454a-8251-397f7fe5f6d0" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:53:34.577" UserId="850" Text="Video extension &quot;After the monitor&quot; solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1118" RevisionGUID="dac55934-ad39-454a-8251-397f7fe5f6d0" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:53:34.577" UserId="850" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1120" RevisionGUID="0aa875d7-0960-44fa-b9f1-b0fe03c9b7b5" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:59:45.387" UserId="851" Text="As you seem like a developer, a perfect fit for you would be any flavor of an Arduino. It is an easily programmable development controller with a massive backing of the maker community. This would allow you to take many inputs (skin sensors) and measure the voltage from 0-5v in 1024 steps, giving you 0.005v precision. This may not be precise enough, but a simple transistor can be used to amplify that signal (only a transistor and arduino is needed, no other circuitry unless you really want to go all out). Arduinos can be as small as your thumb or smaller and can even communicate over wifi using a shield. Cost is very cheap and the possibilities are endless. Because arduinos run simple code, you can set thresholds for flex strength, variables, and conditions that would not only allow you to click, but you can move your mouse precisely. This is much more powerful than the Makey Makey. You could probably get an official EEG, but that wouldn't give you the flexibility or functionality you need. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="ba14d0af-9841-4612-921d-5bb168a18e68" CreationDate="2015-11-06T16:04:28.330" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="I do a lot of camping and backpacking, so I would find a portable solar cell to power my smartphone and laptop. I would like the solar cell to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have both 19 volt and 12 volt output&#xD;&#xA; - Have 2.4 amp USB&#xD;&#xA; - Weigh less than 10 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Fold in a way that makes it fit into a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Cost under $200- this is the maximum I am willing to spend- no budging&#xD;&#xA; - I would also appreciate it supporting a 90 watt power cord like [this][1] one, as I would rather not buy another adapter.&#xD;&#xA; - **Optional**: Have an on-board battery of over 10000 MAh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dell-Computer-469-4033-90w-Ac-Adapter-W-6.56-Pwr-Pc-For-Inspiron-lat-vos-xps-Laptop/41790117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="ba14d0af-9841-4612-921d-5bb168a18e68" CreationDate="2015-11-06T16:04:28.330" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="Portable solar cell for camping and backpacking?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1118" RevisionGUID="ece70f91-44c5-423e-a087-8e92f37610d3" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:21:57.233" UserId="850" Comment="Updated requirements" Text="I have a customer who is looking to extend the output of a weather station into a second aircraft hangar at an airport.  The vendor has approved doing this, but says that any solution we implement must be done &quot;after the monitor.&quot; The output is a single VGA port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have explained that this means the signal must go from the station to the primary display without any interruption in signal.  I am looking for a way to use an ethernet based or even IP based extender in this configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does a monitor with a video-out passthrough exist? The requirement for uninterrupted signal to the main display leaves out the use of a splitter device, but I am wondering if they will allow a passive Y-Cable.  We are checking on that, but I am looking for alternatives if that falls through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The vendor confirmed that a splitter cable is NOT acceptable, so a pass-through monitor would be the only option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1121" RevisionGUID="67e33ba6-f365-4e7c-ad28-5aacd9820bec" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:39:22.410" UserId="853" Text="Hope, I am in  the right place to ask such question . I am a developer , I develop web and android application . So for that I use tools like netbeans android studio photoshop ,git ,  chrome with lot of tab opened . Most of the times I need to keep them open for all time .  So I am planning to buy a new laptop . I know many people will suggest , I must have a SSD , but after some research I have found that , I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration I want . And I do not want to buy any macbook .  After some research , I have sorted out some laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS K555LN-5500U 5th Gen Core i7&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: Intel Core i7 5th Gen 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 840M with 2GB DDR3 VRAM&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell Inspiron N5548 Intel Core i7 5th Gen&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: 5th Gen. Intel Core i7 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is will the above laptop serve my purpose ? If they which one should I buy ? Or are there any other laptop can serve my purpose ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1121" RevisionGUID="67e33ba6-f365-4e7c-ad28-5aacd9820bec" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:39:22.410" UserId="853" Text="Which laptop should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1121" RevisionGUID="67e33ba6-f365-4e7c-ad28-5aacd9820bec" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:39:22.410" UserId="853" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="85abe0d3-299b-47f1-94c6-5a1a7e6103a6" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:52:16.493" UserId="814" Text="I would suggest to go with IBM thinkpad. It's worth with the price as its durable. I have one friend who's developer and he use for a long time even with less configuration what you have described above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought my macbook pro in 2010 and works fine so far. No isses at all. I am using it to develop websites and couple of personal project. Use almost the same application what you're using except the android thing. Use GIT, Netbens, Adobe suite, ftp and etc. If I want to buy a new laptop at this stage I would definitely go with thinkpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My brother and good friend of mine having a DELL inspiron and they fed up with it in within a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with your search and purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1121" RevisionGUID="e553e3c5-c29b-4d16-a4a3-0b20405d1939" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:59:54.493" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 65 characters in body" Text="I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like netbeans android studio photoshop , git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open for all the time. So I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration I want, and I do not want to buy a macbook. After some research, I have sorted out some laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS K555LN-5500U 5th Gen Core i7&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: Intel Core i7 5th Gen 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 840M with 2GB DDR3 VRAM&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell Inspiron N5548 Intel Core i7 5th Gen&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: 5th Gen. Intel Core i7 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is will the above laptop serve my purpose ? If they which one should I buy ? Or are there any other laptop can serve my purpose ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1126" RevisionGUID="a6fe030c-9af2-40c7-bd1e-57f44d428384" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:21:07.117" UserId="850" Text="Apparently the solution is one of two possible options.  There is a DisplayPort standard called Multi-Stream Transport (MST) that was introduced with DisplayPort 1.2 (Wikipedia, n.d.).  The other option is a display with a VGA in/out configuration.  LG makes a series of monitors that provides this function, the N225WU-BN Cloud monitor, which is designed for use with Microsoft Multipoint Server 2011, but serves the purpose for this application (N225WU-BN, n.d.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to thank SSumner for the DisplayPort research direction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*DisplayPort*. (n.d.). Retrieved November 6, 2015, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multiple_displays_on_single_DisplayPort_connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*N225WU-BN*. (n.d.). Retrieved November 6, 2015, from http://www.lg.com/us/commercial/desktop-virtualization/lg-N225WU-BN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1127" RevisionGUID="be299270-e4a4-4817-bc38-37ae32e2cb96" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:25:12.180" UserId="57" Text="The only difference between the two machines you have listed is a dedicated video card in the first one. Unless you are doing something that requires a video card (games come to mind, but there are other areas that would require it too), I'd go with the second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An i7 CPU with 8 GB of RAM should be sufficient for your needs. The 1TB hard drive will give you plenty of space to work with as well. The 15.6&quot; screen will put the machine on the large side for a laptop, but if you know that ahead of time you won't be surprised. This isn't going to be a light machine to carry around though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest difference - not hardware-wise - is the after purchase support of the machines. You'll need to compare warranties and how much you are willing to spend on a warranty between the two retailers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Leaving out the warranty cost though, if you are not in need of a dedicated video card, go with the Dell." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1121" RevisionGUID="f69a642d-c05d-4b6f-8da5-2307f5fb06a3" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:25:55.277" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like netbeans android studio Photoshop , git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration I want, and I do not want to buy a macbook. After some research, I have sorted out some laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS K555LN-5500U 5th Gen Core i7&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: Intel Core i7 5th Gen 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 840M with 2GB DDR3 VRAM&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell Inspiron N5548 Intel Core i7 5th Gen&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: 5th Gen. Intel Core i7 5500U&#xD;&#xA;    2.40 GHz (3.00 GHz by Turbo Frequency) 4MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8 GB  DDR3, HDD: 1 TB SATA&#xD;&#xA;    Display: 15.6&quot; 16:9 HD (1366 X 768) LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is will the above laptop serve my purpose? If they which one should I buy? Or are there any other laptop can serve my purpose?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1118" RevisionGUID="9cc9ca13-747e-4d0a-a1ac-e2e5ec17b531" CreationDate="2015-11-06T20:10:49.173" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="920d0a9e-d988-4b64-8c37-95be8573331f" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:18:06.123" UserId="821" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Under $50 Dollars&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have the cable for the motherboard with it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instruction manual&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="920d0a9e-d988-4b64-8c37-95be8573331f" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:18:06.123" UserId="821" Text="Looking for a good hdd/external hdd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="920d0a9e-d988-4b64-8c37-95be8573331f" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:18:06.123" UserId="821" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="4c5755b8-331c-4dd1-a568-767a3124d7de" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:21:20.900" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it&#xD;&#xA;- Instruction manual&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="4c5755b8-331c-4dd1-a568-767a3124d7de" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:21:20.900" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1129" RevisionGUID="c9db6283-8cc3-4051-9e3b-a8b933cfbc98" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:40:07.117" UserId="851" Text="Arduino https://www.arduino.cc &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arduino chips are absolutely the way to go! The Arduino MEGA uses the ATmega16U2 chip and meets all of your requirements. It can easily run on USB power or less. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Features&#xD;&#xA;    • High Performance, Low Power AVR® 8-Bit Microcontroller&#xD;&#xA;    • Advanced RISC Architecture&#xD;&#xA;    – 125 Powerful Instructions – Most Single Clock Cycle Execution&#xD;&#xA;    – 32 x 8 General Purpose Working Registers&#xD;&#xA;    – Fully Static Operation&#xD;&#xA;    – Up to 16 MIPS Throughput at 16 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    • Non-volatile Program and Data Memories&#xD;&#xA;    – 8K/16K/32K Bytes of In-System Self-Programmable Flash&#xD;&#xA;    – 512/512/1024 EEPROM&#xD;&#xA;    – 512/512/1024 Internal SRAM&#xD;&#xA;    – Write/Erase Cycles: 10,000 Flash/ 100,000 EEPROM&#xD;&#xA;    – Data retention: 20 years at 85C/ 100 years at 25C(1)&#xD;&#xA;    – Optional Boot Code Section with Independent Lock Bits&#xD;&#xA;    In-System Programming by on-chip Boot Program hardware-activated after&#xD;&#xA;    reset&#xD;&#xA;    True Read-While-Write Operation&#xD;&#xA;    – Programming Lock for Software Security&#xD;&#xA;    • USB 2.0 Full-speed Device Module with Interrupt on Transfer Completion&#xD;&#xA;    – Complies fully with Universal Serial Bus Specification REV 2.0&#xD;&#xA;    – 48 MHz PLL for Full-speed Bus Operation : data transfer rates at 12 Mbit/s&#xD;&#xA;    – Fully independant 176 bytes USB DPRAM for endpoint memory allocation&#xD;&#xA;    – Endpoint 0 for Control Transfers: from 8 up to 64-bytes&#xD;&#xA;    – 4 Programmable Endpoints:&#xD;&#xA;    IN or Out Directions&#xD;&#xA;    Bulk, Interrupt and IsochronousTransfers&#xD;&#xA;    Programmable maximum packet size from 8 to 64 bytes&#xD;&#xA;    Programmable single or double buffer&#xD;&#xA;    – Suspend/Resume Interrupts&#xD;&#xA;    – Microcontroller reset on USB Bus Reset without detach&#xD;&#xA;    – USB Bus Disconnection on Microcontroller Request&#xD;&#xA;    • Peripheral Features&#xD;&#xA;    – One 8-bit Timer/Counters with Separate Prescaler and Compare Mode (two 8-bit&#xD;&#xA;    PWM channels)&#xD;&#xA;    – One 16-bit Timer/Counter with Separate Prescaler, Compare and Capture Mode&#xD;&#xA;    (three 8-bit PWM channels)&#xD;&#xA;    – USART with SPI master only mode and hardware flow control (RTS/CTS)&#xD;&#xA;    – Master/Slave SPI Serial Interface&#xD;&#xA;    – Programmable Watchdog Timer with Separate On-chip Oscillator&#xD;&#xA;    – On-chip Analog Comparator&#xD;&#xA;    – Interrupt and Wake-up on Pin Change&#xD;&#xA;    • On Chip Debug Interface (debugWIRE)&#xD;&#xA;    • Special Microcontroller Features&#xD;&#xA;    – Power-On Reset and Programmable Brown-out Detection&#xD;&#xA;    – Internal Calibrated Oscillator&#xD;&#xA;    – External and Internal Interrupt Sources&#xD;&#xA;    – Five Sleep Modes: Idle, Power-save, Power-down, Standby, and Extended Standby&#xD;&#xA;    • I/O and Packages&#xD;&#xA;    – 22 Programmable I/O Lines&#xD;&#xA;    – QFN32 (5x5mm) / TQFP32 packages&#xD;&#xA;    • Operating Voltages&#xD;&#xA;    – 2.7 - 5.5V&#xD;&#xA;    • Operating temperature&#xD;&#xA;    – Industrial (-40°C to +85°C)&#xD;&#xA;    • Maximum Frequency&#xD;&#xA;    – 8 MHz at 2.7V - Industrial range&#xD;&#xA;    – 16 MHz at 4.5V - Industrial range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="2d696732-4ed7-4262-b1bc-cf1655940872" CreationDate="2015-11-06T22:01:04.670" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3945" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="4ae837d1-b5e3-4855-8143-22e66077c4f1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T22:08:28.013" UserId="214" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="3953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="a0657406-158c-4c73-841e-4942e7cd6960" CreationDate="2015-11-07T00:50:13.337" UserId="821" Comment="added 648 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it&#xD;&#xA;- Instruction manual&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it  smart to buy this one along with a case and says port? (I'm going to see if it works for my DELL VOSTRO 470 first though (If you know plz put it in the comments) )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="111fd270-2ed6-4aa7-824e-bc5f0070a995" CreationDate="2015-11-07T00:57:30.633" UserId="821" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it&#xD;&#xA;- Instruction manual&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it  smart to buy this one along with a case and says port? (I'm going to see if it works for my DELL VOSTRO 470 first though (If you know plz put it in the comments) )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="907cfa49-6963-4d5d-a635-1c8700be6bf9" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:40:24.103" UserId="821" Comment="added 280 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it&#xD;&#xA;- Instruction manual&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch? [I'm going to contact them]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it  smart to buy this one along with a case and says port? (I'm going to see if it works for my DELL VOSTRO 470 first though (If you know plz put it in the comments) )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION B**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.sierracomponent.com/product/components-peripherals/data-storage/internal-hard-drives/hde721010sla330-hitachi-deskstar-e7k1000-32mb-hard-drive-2000019204312-used/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is used, so I'm not sure if its a good idea. However, it has a case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION C**---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom hard drive with custom Sata cable / Custom external drive / under $50 / 1TB&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1129" RevisionGUID="143e44f4-1ca5-4d6e-8506-e34f24eabf78" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:53:03.987" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline link, fixed the first sentence" Text="I would recommend the [Arduino](https://www.arduino.cc). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arduino chips are absolutely the way to go! The Arduino MEGA uses the ATmega16U2 chip and meets all of your requirements. It can easily run on USB power or less. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Features&#xD;&#xA;    • High Performance, Low Power AVR® 8-Bit Microcontroller&#xD;&#xA;    • Advanced RISC Architecture&#xD;&#xA;    – 125 Powerful Instructions – Most Single Clock Cycle Execution&#xD;&#xA;    – 32 x 8 General Purpose Working Registers&#xD;&#xA;    – Fully Static Operation&#xD;&#xA;    – Up to 16 MIPS Throughput at 16 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    • Non-volatile Program and Data Memories&#xD;&#xA;    – 8K/16K/32K Bytes of In-System Self-Programmable Flash&#xD;&#xA;    – 512/512/1024 EEPROM&#xD;&#xA;    – 512/512/1024 Internal SRAM&#xD;&#xA;    – Write/Erase Cycles: 10,000 Flash/ 100,000 EEPROM&#xD;&#xA;    – Data retention: 20 years at 85C/ 100 years at 25C(1)&#xD;&#xA;    – Optional Boot Code Section with Independent Lock Bits&#xD;&#xA;    In-System Programming by on-chip Boot Program hardware-activated after&#xD;&#xA;    reset&#xD;&#xA;    True Read-While-Write Operation&#xD;&#xA;    – Programming Lock for Software Security&#xD;&#xA;    • USB 2.0 Full-speed Device Module with Interrupt on Transfer Completion&#xD;&#xA;    – Complies fully with Universal Serial Bus Specification REV 2.0&#xD;&#xA;    – 48 MHz PLL for Full-speed Bus Operation : data transfer rates at 12 Mbit/s&#xD;&#xA;    – Fully independant 176 bytes USB DPRAM for endpoint memory allocation&#xD;&#xA;    – Endpoint 0 for Control Transfers: from 8 up to 64-bytes&#xD;&#xA;    – 4 Programmable Endpoints:&#xD;&#xA;    IN or Out Directions&#xD;&#xA;    Bulk, Interrupt and IsochronousTransfers&#xD;&#xA;    Programmable maximum packet size from 8 to 64 bytes&#xD;&#xA;    Programmable single or double buffer&#xD;&#xA;    – Suspend/Resume Interrupts&#xD;&#xA;    – Microcontroller reset on USB Bus Reset without detach&#xD;&#xA;    – USB Bus Disconnection on Microcontroller Request&#xD;&#xA;    • Peripheral Features&#xD;&#xA;    – One 8-bit Timer/Counters with Separate Prescaler and Compare Mode (two 8-bit&#xD;&#xA;    PWM channels)&#xD;&#xA;    – One 16-bit Timer/Counter with Separate Prescaler, Compare and Capture Mode&#xD;&#xA;    (three 8-bit PWM channels)&#xD;&#xA;    – USART with SPI master only mode and hardware flow control (RTS/CTS)&#xD;&#xA;    – Master/Slave SPI Serial Interface&#xD;&#xA;    – Programmable Watchdog Timer with Separate On-chip Oscillator&#xD;&#xA;    – On-chip Analog Comparator&#xD;&#xA;    – Interrupt and Wake-up on Pin Change&#xD;&#xA;    • On Chip Debug Interface (debugWIRE)&#xD;&#xA;    • Special Microcontroller Features&#xD;&#xA;    – Power-On Reset and Programmable Brown-out Detection&#xD;&#xA;    – Internal Calibrated Oscillator&#xD;&#xA;    – External and Internal Interrupt Sources&#xD;&#xA;    – Five Sleep Modes: Idle, Power-save, Power-down, Standby, and Extended Standby&#xD;&#xA;    • I/O and Packages&#xD;&#xA;    – 22 Programmable I/O Lines&#xD;&#xA;    – QFN32 (5x5mm) / TQFP32 packages&#xD;&#xA;    • Operating Voltages&#xD;&#xA;    – 2.7 - 5.5V&#xD;&#xA;    • Operating temperature&#xD;&#xA;    – Industrial (-40°C to +85°C)&#xD;&#xA;    • Maximum Frequency&#xD;&#xA;    – 8 MHz at 2.7V - Industrial range&#xD;&#xA;    – 16 MHz at 4.5V - Industrial range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1129" RevisionGUID="143e44f4-1ca5-4d6e-8506-e34f24eabf78" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:53:03.987" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 155 edit id of 264" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="97621ea2-37f1-4b27-bc9a-6429d780b740" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:53:14.793" UserId="821" Comment="added 280 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it (if not then add a link to one with your answer)&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch? [I'm going to contact them]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (-)  &#xD;&#xA;$27 price tag (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION B**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.sierracomponent.com/product/components-peripherals/data-storage/internal-hard-drives/hde721010sla330-hitachi-deskstar-e7k1000-32mb-hard-drive-2000019204312-used/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$35 price tag (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Used (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION C**---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must meet the requirements at the top page, Sata cable does not need to be included with hard drive shipment but needs to be with answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="984" RevisionGUID="957ff6cc-2d95-43e4-9526-3f607d33f029" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:57:05.153" UserId="128" Comment="Transition from bare to inline links, improved grammar + formatting" Text="[This](http://www.bjorn3d.com/2015/08/intel-core-i7-6700k-review-skylake-falling/3/) could help you find your answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can seee for photo edition the 6700k is pretty good but not the best&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see [here](http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/10), the 5960x does beat it quite often then not but it's also 3 times the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So between the 6700k and 5820k&#xD;&#xA;multicore: 5820k is about 25% faster.&#xD;&#xA;singlecore the 6700k is 23% faster.&#xD;&#xA;these are from benchmark scores&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot go wrong with either, noticeable advantages the 5820k has over 6700k is the memory bandwith which seriously quite high (Double actually) and the 2 cores (4threads)&#xD;&#xA;So after reconsideration on my behalf, the 5820k might actually be the better choice since photo editing softwares are all 64bit and multicore nowdays. You can even overclock the 5820k more easily than the 6700k.&#xD;&#xA;But then in gaming the 6700k takes the large, not by much but still noticable since it's single core performamce are pretty high. the 6700k is also power efficient and suports usb 3.1 natively (future proof)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5820k would be my choice, with a setup than doesn't bottleneck it's performances. Atleast for the next 4-5years you're good to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="984" RevisionGUID="957ff6cc-2d95-43e4-9526-3f607d33f029" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:57:05.153" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 155 edit id of 265" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="b3d7bc3a-a1e3-44d7-9e45-3d565df3dfa2" CreationDate="2015-11-07T03:30:58.210" UserId="821" Comment="added 690 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it (if not then add a link to one with your answer)&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch? [I'm going to contact them]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (-)  &#xD;&#xA;$27 price tag (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION B**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;A href=&quot;https://www.sierracomponent.com/product/components-peripherals/data-storage/internal-hard-drives/hde721010sla330-hitachi-deskstar-e7k1000-32mb-hard-drive-2000019204312-used/&quot;&gt; Link  &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$35 price tag (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Used (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION C**---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must meet the requirements at the top page, Sata cable does not need to be included with hard drive shipment but needs to be with answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION D**----------  &#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-elements-1tb-external-usb-3-0-2-0-portable-hard-drive-black/9291106.p?id=1219011381217&amp;skuId=9291106&amp;ref=06&amp;loc=01&amp;ci_src=14110944&amp;ci_sku=9291106&amp;extensionType=pla:g&amp;s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!58460710247!g!M!87087641359&amp;kpid=9291106&amp;k_clickid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;lsft=ref:212,loc:1&amp;ksid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;ksprof_id=8&amp;ksaffcode=pg27&amp;ksdevice=m&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$55 price tag (--)  &#xD;&#xA;USB cable (+)   &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;3 year warranty (++) &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;external (+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:  &#xD;&#xA;From BestBuy (reliable service)  &#xD;&#xA;1 day shipping  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks to  &lt;a href=&quot;http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/128/zizouz212&quot;&gt; Zizouz212 &lt;/a&gt; for suggesting the edit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="ca2b7022-532c-4f8c-9141-be44db72d5a3" CreationDate="2015-11-07T03:38:41.040" UserId="821" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it (if not then add a link to one with your answer)&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch? [I'm going to contact them]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (-)  &#xD;&#xA;$27 price tag (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION B**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;A href=&quot;https://www.sierracomponent.com/product/components-peripherals/data-storage/internal-hard-drives/hde721010sla330-hitachi-deskstar-e7k1000-32mb-hard-drive-2000019204312-used/&quot;&gt; Link  &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$35 price tag (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Used (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION C**---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must meet the requirements at the top page, Sata cable does not need to be included with hard drive shipment but needs to be with answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION D**----------  &#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-elements-1tb-external-usb-3-0-2-0-portable-hard-drive-black/9291106.p?id=1219011381217&amp;skuId=9291106&amp;ref=06&amp;loc=01&amp;ci_src=14110944&amp;ci_sku=9291106&amp;extensionType=pla:g&amp;s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!58460710247!g!M!87087641359&amp;kpid=9291106&amp;k_clickid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;lsft=ref:212,loc:1&amp;ksid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;ksprof_id=8&amp;ksaffcode=pg27&amp;ksdevice=m&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$55 price tag (--)  &#xD;&#xA;USB cable (+)   &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;3 year warranty (++)   &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;external (+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:  &#xD;&#xA;From BestBuy (reliable service)  &#xD;&#xA;1 day shipping  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=============================&#xD;&#xA;Thanks to  &lt;a href=&quot;http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/128/zizouz212&quot;&gt; Zizouz212 &lt;/a&gt; for suggesting the edit.  &#xD;&#xA;If you make a post, please make sure that there are many left in stock as I am going to be finalizing my shopping for Christmas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1131" RevisionGUID="b8a4bd06-e7cd-400c-885d-c2b40bb3cf2b" CreationDate="2015-11-07T05:35:10.303" UserId="737" Text="So [This][1] one is on sale for $50 &#xD;&#xA;External 1Tb Toshiba (not bad at all) amazon return policy and and manufacturer warranty included Normally comes with a usb 3.0 standard cable (the compatible with microUSB format)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC810XK3A1/dp/B00R4O9M4A/ &quot;This&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="e3ce17f7-a463-4df4-9629-381ec90a8882" CreationDate="2015-11-07T11:18:39.917" UserId="104" Text="When I look at my laptop's screen I feel that my backbone is not straight. And, sometimes I feel neck pain. If I move down my chair (or put the laptop higher) then I have sore arms and shoulders. None of the following images make sense to me. Nobody puts the screen that much high, nor they move their eyes down to look at something on the screen. At the position that is claimed to be correct, you need to move your eyes till the end to see the windows bar. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would feel much comfortable if I had a chance to move the screen up just the half of the height of the screen in the picture below. So to say, there should be some distance between the keyboard and the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides being light-weight, laptops should have sliding hinges that allow users to move the screen up or down. I know that it would change the center of the gravity, but this problem can be solved with a simple trick by the designers. Maybe, there are some companies that are doing it already. I would really like to know the name of these companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides, with the developing technology (or it feels like that) a small projectors can be used instead of screens on laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9xFoI.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="e3ce17f7-a463-4df4-9629-381ec90a8882" CreationDate="2015-11-07T11:18:39.917" UserId="104" Text="Laptops with adjustable screens (Popular designs are not proper to human anatomy)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="e3ce17f7-a463-4df4-9629-381ec90a8882" CreationDate="2015-11-07T11:18:39.917" UserId="104" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3974" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1054" RevisionGUID="fa4e08ac-6f45-4459-bb1a-ca242c9106f6" CreationDate="2015-11-07T12:10:54.330" UserId="653" Comment="added 169 characters in body" Text="A family member is moving into a new home soon, and for various reasons I've recommended that they purchase a 4G router instead of continuing to use landline broadband:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mobile data is insanely cheap- the provider that I've suggested they use have an offer on PAYG (Pay As You Go [prepay]) that gives completely unlimited data as long as the SIM card is topped up £10 every 14 days;&#xD;&#xA; - Using 4G is cheaper than landline broadband- £20/month for 4G or £24/month for landline broadband;&#xD;&#xA; - I've measured the 4G speed from within a house visit, and the speed I got was 90 Megabits/s. The maximum speed on the £24/month landline broadband is ~16 Megabits/s. I've already confirmed with the mobile provider that purchasing a SIM card on a PAYG package and using it exclusively for 4G Internet does not violate any of their terms.;&#xD;&#xA; - The cost of the 4G router would be earned back in two-three years&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for a 4G router for them to use, but however most seem to be portable routers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a couple of home 4G routers that I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Huawei B593s-22][1];&#xD;&#xA; - [D-Link DWR-921][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea of replacing home broadband with 4G hasn't caught on yet, possibly because in many countries landline broadband is faster than 4G.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently leaning towards the Huawei router, but are there any others which are better? I use a Huawei smartphone so I know they are a reliable brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be readily available- no 'oh look, someone wants to browse a website, let's connect to 4G';&#xD;&#xA; - Should have the ability to wall-mount, or alternatively attach a 4G signal booster aerial;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be suited to home networking (don't want a portable router);&#xD;&#xA; - Be at least Wireless N, if not Wireless AC&#xD;&#xA; - **Not portable**- Portable 'MiFi' routers often have a very low WiFi signal range. This device will be used in a home, in place of a standard WiFi broadband router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Huawei-B593s-22-Unlocked-Wireless-Router/dp/B009QW3ZG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4G%20Router&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-DWR-921-4G-LTE-Router/dp/B00BN36NMM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=4G%20Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1054" RevisionGUID="d2567593-ac3d-462b-898b-332fc0dd1037" CreationDate="2015-11-07T12:25:57.833" UserId="653" Comment="added 70 characters in body" Text="A family member is moving into a new home soon, and for various reasons I've recommended that they purchase a 4G router instead of continuing to use landline broadband:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mobile data is insanely cheap- the provider that I've suggested they use have an offer on PAYG (Pay As You Go [prepay]) that gives completely unlimited data as long as the SIM card is topped up £10 every 14 days;&#xD;&#xA; - Using 4G is cheaper than landline broadband- £20/month for 4G or £24/month for landline broadband;&#xD;&#xA; - I've measured the 4G speed from within a house visit, and the speed I got was 90 Megabits/s. The maximum speed on the £24/month landline broadband is ~16 Megabits/s. I've already confirmed with the mobile provider that purchasing a SIM card on a PAYG package and using it exclusively for 4G Internet does not violate any of their terms.;&#xD;&#xA; - The cost of the 4G router would be earned back in two-three years&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for a 4G router for them to use, but however most seem to be portable routers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a couple of home 4G routers that I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Huawei B593s-22][1];&#xD;&#xA; - [D-Link DWR-921][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea of replacing home broadband with 4G hasn't caught on yet, possibly because in many countries landline broadband is faster than 4G.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently leaning towards the Huawei router, but are there any others which are better? I use a Huawei smartphone so I know they are a reliable brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be readily available- no 'oh look, someone wants to browse a website, let's connect to 4G';&#xD;&#xA; - Should have the ability to wall-mount, or alternatively attach a 4G signal booster aerial;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be suited to home networking (don't want a portable router);&#xD;&#xA; - Be at least Wireless N, if not Wireless AC&#xD;&#xA; - **Not portable**- Portable 'MiFi' routers often have a very low WiFi signal range. This device will be used in a home, in place of a standard WiFi broadband router.&#xD;&#xA; - Should have at least two LAN ports, preferably the standard four.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Huawei-B593s-22-Unlocked-Wireless-Router/dp/B009QW3ZG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4G%20Router&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-DWR-921-4G-LTE-Router/dp/B00BN36NMM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446628067&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=4G%20Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="df88b181-cac3-46c7-9d19-87221516e865" CreationDate="2015-11-07T13:09:04.350" UserId="476" Text="I want a phone, and I don't need 3G/4G/5G/Whatever other Gs there are. Just WiFi. I have been considering the [LG Optimus Exceed 2](http://www.lg.com/us/cell-phones/lg-VS450PP-optimus-exceed-2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Price: $40 including shipping&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size must be in between **4&quot;** and **5.5&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution must be **higher or equal** to **800 x 400**&#xD;&#xA; - Must be touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Must have **802.11g WiFi** or **better**.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have at least **4GB** of **internal storage** and have at least **1.25GB** available&#xD;&#xA; - Must have either **Android** or **Windows**&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD slot **must support up to 32GB!**&#xD;&#xA; - Must support **class 10** SD cards&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a **speaker and microphone**&#xD;&#xA; - Chassis should be less than **0.5&quot;** thick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care if...&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - it's prepaid&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have 2G/3G/4G&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have a rear camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strong Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - I would like to be able to install apps on the MicroSD card&#xD;&#xA; - I would like the screen size to be greater than **4.4&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like the front camera resolution to be greater than **1920 x 1080**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like the battery to be at least **12 hours** when on **standby**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like the battery to be at least **3 hours** when **being used**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like it to boot up before **the next ice age comes and goes!!!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="df88b181-cac3-46c7-9d19-87221516e865" CreationDate="2015-11-07T13:09:04.350" UserId="476" Text="A Phone/Tablet w/ WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="df88b181-cac3-46c7-9d19-87221516e865" CreationDate="2015-11-07T13:09:04.350" UserId="476" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="d2db5998-1956-47fb-9efa-b0c9821c0e42" CreationDate="2015-11-07T14:40:33.700" UserId="104" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="When I look at my laptop's screen I feel that my backbone is not straight. And, sometimes I feel neck pain. If I move down my chair (or put the laptop higher) then I have sore arms and shoulders. None of the following images make sense to me. Nobody puts the screen that much high, nor they move their eyes down to look at something on the screen. At the position that is claimed to be correct, you need to move your eyes till the end to see the windows bar. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would feel much comfortable if I had a chance to move the screen up just the half of the height of the screen in the picture below. So to say, there should be some distance between the keyboard and the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides being light-weight, laptops should have sliding hinges that allow users to move the screen up or down. I know that it would change the center of the gravity, but this problem can be solved with a simple trick by the designers. Maybe, there are some companies that are doing it already. I would really like to know the name of these companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides, with the developing technology (or it feels like that) a small projectors can be used instead of screens on laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9xFoI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GK3SA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="31944cb1-f18b-4b77-9118-7afbe4ab6c0a" CreationDate="2015-11-07T16:34:59.667" UserId="867" Text="I'm a student and a programmer. I want to buy a laptop which I will use as a workstation. It should be very powerful as well as portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least 16 GB of RAM (I will possibly play a little with virtual machines)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's HQ processor of the sixth generation would be the best. I don't want ultra-low voltage cpu.&#xD;&#xA;- maximum 2,3 kg of weight&#xD;&#xA;- 14 or 15 inch screen matte/antiglare screen with good resolution (HD+, FHD or better)&#xD;&#xA;- not a MSI (I hate their keyboards), not a Macbook&#xD;&#xA;- replaceable HDD (I already have mSATA SSD, I would like to install it using SATA adapter)&#xD;&#xA;- not super expensive&#xD;&#xA;- docking port would be a plus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="31944cb1-f18b-4b77-9118-7afbe4ab6c0a" CreationDate="2015-11-07T16:34:59.667" UserId="867" Text="Superlight and powerful laptop for a programmer/student" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="31944cb1-f18b-4b77-9118-7afbe4ab6c0a" CreationDate="2015-11-07T16:34:59.667" UserId="867" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="be730d6c-0fb6-4ca4-be5f-57338c9581b2" CreationDate="2015-11-07T16:55:00.640" UserId="867" Comment="edited title" Text="Superlight and powerful laptop for a programmer and a student" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1136" RevisionGUID="0ca1a793-2eea-46da-9cd5-aac979da16f3" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:57:54.977" UserId="107" Text="No, I wouldn't buy either of those laptops, because the displays are too low-resolution for me to be able to work productively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My minimum recommended specs would be as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum $800 price point--I've bought a lot of laptops, and if you go any cheaper the manufacturers seriously have to start cutting corners and it really shows.&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD or better resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB or larger SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 16 Gb RAM (or 8 GB upgradeable to 16 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard, preferably with a numpad&#xD;&#xA; - good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - excellent touchpad (Macbook one is the best, maybe some PC touchpads have gotten better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't get an SSD right off the bat, budget to upgrade within a few months. The performance difference is unbelievable and you'll be able to be much more productive with an SSD.  I'd even suggest upgrading to an SSD before upgrading your RAM to 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your resistance to buying a Macbook is understandable, but as a die-hard Windows power user since 1995, I have to grudgingly admit that the Mac touchpad is best-in-class, and the gestures and swiping left and right between full-screen apps is a huge productivity booster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1136" RevisionGUID="8684a865-08bc-4c20-ab92-9c1ccd0dedaa" CreationDate="2015-11-07T19:07:42.130" UserId="107" Comment="added 308 characters in body" Text="No, I wouldn't buy either of those laptops, because the displays are too low-resolution for me to be able to work productively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My minimum recommended specs would be as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum $800 price point, preferably $1200 or more--I've bought a lot of laptops, and if you go any cheaper the manufacturers seriously have to start cutting corners and it really shows.&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD or better resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB or larger SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 16 Gb RAM (or 8 GB upgradeable to 16 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard, preferably with a numpad&#xD;&#xA; - good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - excellent touchpad (Macbook one is the best, maybe some PC touchpads have gotten better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't get an SSD right off the bat, budget to upgrade within a few months. The performance difference is unbelievable and you'll be able to be much more productive with an SSD.  I'd even suggest upgrading to an SSD before upgrading your RAM to 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot recommend a specific model, but I can make a few general recommendations...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DO NOT BUY:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba&#xD;&#xA; - Anything less than $800 on sale&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DO CONSIDER:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Macbook/Macbook Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung&#xD;&#xA; - Dell&#xD;&#xA; - Asus&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo Thinkpad&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably something $1200 or up&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your resistance to buying a Macbook is understandable, but as a die-hard Windows power user since 1995, I have to grudgingly admit that the Mac touchpad is best-in-class, and the gestures and swiping left and right between full-screen apps is a huge productivity booster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1138" RevisionGUID="532e3746-c67a-4d5d-983f-d20211cc6f2f" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:50:19.460" UserId="107" Text="I'm not sure about dedicated MP3 players but you can buy any cheap prepaid Android phone and use the app of your preference.  I really like DoggCatcher, but there are many other podcast apps to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently bought a $15 LG something-or-other prepaid Verizon phone and use it exclusively for podcasts and using email over WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some headphones have additional controls which can control your media player app." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1139" RevisionGUID="cc7a3423-3c0b-40d0-9de3-8a46a190516d" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:36:02.557" UserId="874" Text="So I got an MP3 (techinically MP4, but the screen is about the size of my thumb), but it's old, and obviously doesn't support Bluetooth headsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason I wanted a Bluetooth headset was due to my earplugs' connection piece constantly breaking after a couple weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ANYWAY...&#xD;&#xA;So I found this thingy: http://www.miniinthebox.com/3-5mm-usb-bluetooth-wireless-receiver-audio-music-adapter-car-home-aux-speaker_p2976716.html&#xD;&#xA;It says receiver in the name of the object, but &quot;Music Receiver Transmitter&quot; under &quot;Accessory Type&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: will it be able to do what I want it to do? And most importantly: will it be able to connect to my Bluetooth headphones without any interface (like on a smartphone or PC)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this thing is incapable of doing what I need, does any of you have any other device that may work? (preferably no cables, since that would defeat the whole purpose)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1139" RevisionGUID="cc7a3423-3c0b-40d0-9de3-8a46a190516d" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:36:02.557" UserId="874" Text="How to know if a Bluetooth piece can transmit?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1139" RevisionGUID="cc7a3423-3c0b-40d0-9de3-8a46a190516d" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:36:02.557" UserId="874" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="b24e8965-d78e-413e-aeaa-17ee6d252297" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:42:21.333" UserId="867" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I'm a student and a programmer. I want to buy a laptop which I will use as a workstation. It should be very powerful as well as portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least 16 GB of RAM (I will possibly play a little with virtual machines)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's HQ processor of the sixth generation would be the best. I don't want ultra-low voltage cpu.&#xD;&#xA;- maximum 2,3 kg of weight&#xD;&#xA;- 14 or 15 inch screen matte/antiglare screen with good resolution (HD+, FHD or better)&#xD;&#xA;- not a MSI (I hate their keyboards), not a Macbook&#xD;&#xA;- replaceable HDD (I already have mSATA SSD, I would like to install it using SATA adapter)&#xD;&#xA;- not super expensive&#xD;&#xA;- docking port would be a plus&#xD;&#xA;- good batery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1139" RevisionGUID="58d806d8-1622-4e81-8028-f830f13dd759" CreationDate="2015-11-07T23:01:12.687" UserId="155" Comment="inline link; grammar" Text="So I got an MP3 player (technically MP4, but the screen is about the size of my thumb), but it's old and obviously doesn't support Bluetooth headsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason I wanted a Bluetooth headset was due to my earplugs' connection piece constantly breaking after a couple weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I found [this thingy](http://www.miniinthebox.com/3-5mm-usb-bluetooth-wireless-receiver-audio-music-adapter-car-home-aux-speaker_p2976716.html).&#xD;&#xA;It says receiver in the name of the object, but &quot;Music Receiver Transmitter&quot; under &quot;Accessory Type&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: will it be able to do what I want it to do? And most importantly: will it be able to connect to my Bluetooth headphones without any interface (like on a smartphone or PC)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this thing is incapable of doing what I need, can any of you recommend any other device that may work? (preferably no cables, since that would defeat the whole purpose)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1140" RevisionGUID="a5102866-e1e8-43fe-aec1-3315958b74a6" CreationDate="2015-11-07T23:17:45.047" UserId="821" Text="`ThinkPad® W550 S Notebook`:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your score: (5/9)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. 16 Gigs of Ram (+)  &#xD;&#xA;2. I7 Core (?)  &#xD;&#xA;3. Weight of 2,2 kilograms [Non-touch screen](+)&#xD;&#xA;4. 15 inch with FHD or 3k (+)    &#xD;&#xA;5. Lenovo (?)  &#xD;&#xA;6. Removable storage (IDK) (?)  &#xD;&#xA;7. Price tag at $1,169 (-)  &#xD;&#xA;8. Website says 'docking connector' (+)     &#xD;&#xA;9. Battery life of 8 hours of video playback (+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summary:  &#xD;&#xA;It's an okay choice as we got a GPU, 16 (up to 32) gigs of ram, 3k display, but lets face it: this is a Lenovo. You will have to watch out for adware and bloatware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1141" RevisionGUID="6fa813ce-a98e-4bc3-bc62-443ac7a38c5c" CreationDate="2015-11-08T01:57:39.167" UserId="476" Text="[Origin EON-15X][2] (Customizable)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score: 71.4% (C-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $1965&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (2133MHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte)&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 965M&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo)&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $2435&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (2133Mhz)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo)&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA; - 4K 2160p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte)&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chassis&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 1.4&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - a bit on the heavy side, 3.4kg&#xD;&#xA; - Two M.2 Drives, two 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA; - Full size keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - According to Origin, 130 minutes, or 2h10m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.originpc.com/gaming/laptops/eon15-x/img/intro01.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.originpc.com/configurator/l/l1.aspx?SYSTEMID=46" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="0d1d9ac1-b115-4a7d-b631-04b2d21974e1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T04:15:42.967" UserId="845" Text="Alright, I purchased [this](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-black/5574049.p?id=1219143550897&amp;skuId=5574049) PC a few months ago and I am now looking to upgrade the graphics card to the ASUS STRIX GTX 970 and my power supply to the [Corsair CX500M](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139050) because of its good reviews, and I like the idea of having a modular power supply. I cleared out space in my case for these new components, only now I am left wondering if they are truly compatible. I know for a fact that I need ~400 Watts for this to work so I went with a 500 Watt Power supply. The problem is, this PC has a Mother Board that is not too popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mother Board: MSI ms-7641 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the power supply come with the correct cables for everything to work properly? I am sorry, this may seem like a stupid question to most of you, but as you can probably tell, seeing that I bought a PRE-BUILT PC, that I am new to this. Please, any insight will help my understanding. Thank you for your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Unfortunately, I do not have enough reputation to post more than two links. I am sorry for the inconvenience.*&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="0d1d9ac1-b115-4a7d-b631-04b2d21974e1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T04:15:42.967" UserId="845" Text="Possible MoBo compatibility issues" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="0d1d9ac1-b115-4a7d-b631-04b2d21974e1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T04:15:42.967" UserId="845" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1131" RevisionGUID="bcc04534-c22b-41d3-a616-89149f73477a" CreationDate="2015-11-08T06:42:20.997" UserId="476" Comment="Turned mess of a run on sentence into a nice, organized list" Text="So [this][1] external 1TB drive is on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50&#xD;&#xA; - External 1TB Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon return policy + manufacturer warranty&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with USB 3.0 standard cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC810XK3A1/dp/B00R4O9M4A/ &quot;This&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1131" RevisionGUID="bcc04534-c22b-41d3-a616-89149f73477a" CreationDate="2015-11-08T06:42:20.997" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 54, 155 edit id of 266" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1145" RevisionGUID="4bb3ad1b-3e94-4cd9-882d-925cde0e338e" CreationDate="2015-11-08T13:55:33.417" UserId="878" Text="A friend of mine is looking for something that can sit, permanently plugged into his hi-fi system, with his external hard drive attached (containing his entire music library) that can be controlled via his iPad over his wifi network.  I realise that one solution is to use a raspberry pi as a sort of music server, the problem with this is that he's not experienced with linux or coding and therefore I'm not convinced this is the best option for him as it would require some tinkering to get setup.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another solution that we considered was to get a cloud hard drive that would connect to the wifi network and could be accessed from any device connected to the network (i.e. his iPad) but then this still needs another device connected to hi-fi (such as a chromecast audio) that can then play the audio stream.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like there must be a single device that can do this as it must be a common problem.  Obviously he could buy a music server but they are quite expensive and essentially he doesn't need something so overcomplicated, it just needs to connect to the wifi and have a usb port for the hard drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions are welcome but single device solutions would be greatly preferred. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1145" RevisionGUID="4bb3ad1b-3e94-4cd9-882d-925cde0e338e" CreationDate="2015-11-08T13:55:33.417" UserId="878" Text="Cheap, small, music server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1145" RevisionGUID="4bb3ad1b-3e94-4cd9-882d-925cde0e338e" CreationDate="2015-11-08T13:55:33.417" UserId="878" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="462be9b4-5fed-4c19-be33-e6a1a6e2cf00" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:06:40.873" UserId="128" Comment="Add the links into the question, remove end stuff" Text="Alright, I purchased [this](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-black/5574049.p?id=1219143550897&amp;skuId=5574049) PC a few months ago and I am now looking to upgrade the graphics card to the ASUS STRIX GTX 970 and my power supply to the [Corsair CX500M](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139050) because of its good reviews, and I like the idea of having a modular power supply. I cleared out space in my case for these new components, only now I am left wondering if they are truly compatible. I know for a fact that I need ~400 Watts for this to work so I went with a 500 Watt Power supply. The problem is, this PC has a Mother Board that is not too popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mother Board: MSI ms-7641 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the power supply come with the correct cables for everything to work properly? I am sorry, this may seem like a stupid question to most of you, but as you can probably tell, seeing that I bought a PRE-BUILT PC, that I am new to this. Please, any insight will help my understanding. Thank you for your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a link to the [Asus GPU](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121899&amp;cm_re=gtx_970_strix-_-14-121-899-_-Product), and the [Motherboard](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130657)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="462be9b4-5fed-4c19-be33-e6a1a6e2cf00" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:06:40.873" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 54, 8 edit id of 269" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1147" RevisionGUID="0458fd57-f294-4791-94e6-bd4bfa7494bf" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:10:22.260" UserId="107" Text="Purpose-built Linux distros have gotten very user-friendly in recent years.  You can use a Raspberry Pi with [HiFi audio][1] running [RuneAudio][2].  No coding or even any Linux command-line required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your friend doesn't want to do the small amount of tinkering to assemble the hardware and install the OS, maybe it's something you would have fun doing, and perhaps your friend would be interested in helping or watching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.computeraudiophile.com/content/638-geek-speak-raspberry-pi-hifi-here/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-as-Hi-Fi-player-with-RuneAudio/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1136" RevisionGUID="bd7cd0db-c161-4196-b6d5-85cc64fe9696" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:12:29.140" UserId="107" Comment="added 119 characters in body" Text="No, I wouldn't buy either of those laptops, because the displays are too low-resolution for me to be able to work productively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My minimum recommended specs for software development would be as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum $800 price point, preferably $1200 or more--I've bought a lot of laptops, and if you go any cheaper the manufacturers seriously have to start cutting corners and it really shows.&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD or better resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB or larger SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 16 Gb RAM (or 8 GB upgradeable to 16 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard, preferably with a numpad&#xD;&#xA; - good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - excellent touchpad (Macbook one is the best, maybe some PC touchpads have gotten better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't get an SSD right off the bat, budget to upgrade within a few months. The performance difference is unbelievable and you'll be able to be much more productive with an SSD.  I'd even suggest upgrading to an SSD before upgrading your RAM to 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot recommend a specific model, but I can make a few general recommendations...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DO NOT BUY:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba&#xD;&#xA; - Anything less than $800 on sale&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DO CONSIDER:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Macbook/Macbook Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung&#xD;&#xA; - Dell&#xD;&#xA; - Asus&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo Thinkpad&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably something $1200 or up&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For software development, pretty much any modern graphics chip will be more than adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your resistance to buying a Macbook is understandable, but as a die-hard Windows power user since 1995, I have to grudgingly admit that the Mac touchpad is best-in-class, and the gestures and swiping left and right between full-screen apps is a huge productivity booster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1140" RevisionGUID="b4b398e3-0b1d-41db-8080-a92e52652331" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:52:09.083" UserId="476" Comment="Reformmated list, added score, added actual CPU, added GPU, made price tag a (+) because of budget added with comment, added link" Text="[ThinkPad® W550 S][1] Notebook:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score: 77.7% (C+)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 16 Gigs of Ram (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 2. i7-5700U (--)  &#xD;&#xA; 3. Weight of 2,2 kilograms [Non-touch screen] (+)&#xD;&#xA; 4. 15 inch with FHD or 3k (+)    &#xD;&#xA; 5. Lenovo (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 6. Removable storage (IDK) (?)  &#xD;&#xA; 7. Price tag at $1,169 (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 8. Website says 'docking connector' (+)     &#xD;&#xA; 9. Battery life of 8 hours of video playback (+)&#xD;&#xA; 10. NVIDIA® K620M 2GB (?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summary:  &#xD;&#xA;It's an okay choice as we got a GPU, 16 (up to 32) gigs of ram, 3k display, but lets face it: this is a Lenovo. You will have to watch out for adware and bloatware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/w-series/w550s/#tab-tech_specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1140" RevisionGUID="b4b398e3-0b1d-41db-8080-a92e52652331" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:52:09.083" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1141" RevisionGUID="b5bbf14c-34fe-4af8-8c71-820f21887129" CreationDate="2015-11-08T16:53:59.960" UserId="476" Comment="added 265 characters in body" Text="[Origin EON-15X][2] (Customizable)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: 81.8% (B-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $1965 **(-)**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (2133MHz) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 965M **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: 91.6% (A-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $2435 **(--)**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (2133Mhz) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 970M 6GB **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 4K 2160p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chassis&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 1.4&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - a bit on the heavy side, 3.4kg **-**&#xD;&#xA; - Two M.2 Drives, two 2.5&quot; drives **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Full size keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - According to Origin, 130 minutes, or 2h10m. **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.originpc.com/gaming/laptops/eon15-x/img/intro01.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.originpc.com/configurator/l/l1.aspx?SYSTEMID=46" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="ea184983-dc39-492f-9a36-5ebcd5c747a3" CreationDate="2015-11-08T17:08:28.093" UserId="476" Comment="Added budget, corrected 'batery' spelling" Text="I'm a student and a programmer. I want to buy a laptop which I will use as a workstation. It should be very powerful as well as portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $1750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least 16 GB of RAM (I will possibly play a little with virtual machines)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's HQ processor of the sixth generation would be the best. I don't want ultra-low voltage cpu.&#xD;&#xA;- maximum 2,3 kg of weight&#xD;&#xA;- 14 or 15 inch screen matte/antiglare screen with good resolution (HD+, FHD or better)&#xD;&#xA;- not a MSI (I hate their keyboards), not a Macbook&#xD;&#xA;- replaceable HDD (I already have mSATA SSD, I would like to install it using SATA adapter)&#xD;&#xA;- not super expensive&#xD;&#xA;- docking port would be a plus&#xD;&#xA;- good battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="ea184983-dc39-492f-9a36-5ebcd5c747a3" CreationDate="2015-11-08T17:08:28.093" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 271" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1140" RevisionGUID="3ef8aecb-3fd2-4201-814a-ff0286f8bfef" CreationDate="2015-11-08T17:08:54.660" UserId="476" Comment="Added info at the bottom. Sorry for giving such a trivial edit, but I felt people have to know how I calculated the score." Text="[ThinkPad® W550 S][1] Notebook:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: 77.7% (C+)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 16 Gigs of Ram (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 2. i7-5700U (--)  &#xD;&#xA; 3. Weight of 2,2 kilograms [Non-touch screen] (+)&#xD;&#xA; 4. 15 inch with FHD or 3k (+)    &#xD;&#xA; 5. Lenovo (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 6. Removable storage (IDK) (?)  &#xD;&#xA; 7. Price tag at $1,169 (+)  &#xD;&#xA; 8. Website says 'docking connector' (+)     &#xD;&#xA; 9. Battery life of 8 hours of video playback (+)&#xD;&#xA; 10. NVIDIA® K620M 2GB (?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summary:  &#xD;&#xA;It's an okay choice as we got a GPU, 16 (up to 32) gigs of ram, 3k display, but lets face it: this is a Lenovo. You will have to watch out for adware and bloatware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/w-series/w550s/#tab-tech_specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1140" RevisionGUID="3ef8aecb-3fd2-4201-814a-ff0286f8bfef" CreationDate="2015-11-08T17:08:54.660" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 272" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1150" RevisionGUID="d4892959-28c8-46c1-8b7e-6101f9981141" CreationDate="2015-11-08T18:53:07.067" UserId="883" Text="I use [OpenELEC](http://openelec.tv/) on a dedicated computer, and have also set it up for a friend on a Raspberry Pi (Raspberry Pi 2 is highly recommended as the extra processing ability makes a big difference). It is a distribution based around [Kodi](http://kodi.tv/), a home theatre software system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is designed to &quot;just work&quot;, and doesn't require any knowledge of Linux or coding to use. It isn't even particularly obvious that it is running on Linux, as it boots straight into Kodi. [Installation](http://wiki.openelec.tv/index.php/Raspberry_Pi) is simply a matter of [downloading](http://openelec.tv/get-openelec) the correct image and writing it onto a SD card which you then insert in the Raspberry Pi. You will have to do some tinkering of the settings within Kodi to get it to operate how you want it, but this would be the case with any solution, unless you are happy with the defaults.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to playing movies and TV shows, it also handles music quite nicely. You will have to make sure that your audio files are tagged correctly if you want all the bells and whistles (as with any player), but you can also choose to play from files directly. If you do put in the tagging effort, then it will automatically display pictures and descriptions of the bands and album covers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have mine hooked up to a projector (for movies/TV), as well as a monitor (for music), and a range of different control devices to suit my mood (wireless keyboard, mouse, remote).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, I have an app called Yatse on my Android phone from which I can control everything if I don't want to have any of the above devices turned on. I personally don't have any Apple products, but [this app](https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/official-kodi-remote/id520480364?mt=8) or [this one](https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/sybu-for-kodi-and-xbmc/id567524653?mt=8) look like viable solutions for an iPad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1150" RevisionGUID="0c7c12d2-975e-466e-8dfe-161ef6978b1e" CreationDate="2015-11-08T18:59:02.447" UserId="883" Comment="added 117 characters in body" Text="I use [OpenELEC](http://openelec.tv/) on a dedicated computer, and have also set it up for a friend on a Raspberry Pi (Raspberry Pi 2 is highly recommended as the extra processing ability makes a big difference). It is a distribution based around [Kodi](http://kodi.tv/), a home theatre software system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is designed to &quot;just work&quot;, and doesn't require any knowledge of Linux or coding to use. It isn't even particularly obvious that it is running on Linux, as it boots straight into Kodi. [Installation](http://wiki.openelec.tv/index.php/Raspberry_Pi) is simply a matter of [downloading](http://openelec.tv/get-openelec) the correct image and writing it onto a SD card which you then insert in the Raspberry Pi. You will have to do some tinkering of the settings within Kodi to get it to operate how you want it, but this would be the case with any solution, unless you are happy with the defaults.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to playing movies and TV shows, it also handles music quite nicely. You will have to make sure that your audio files are tagged correctly if you want all the bells and whistles (as with any player), but you can also choose to play from files directly. If you do put in the tagging effort, then it will automatically display pictures and descriptions of the bands and album covers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have mine hooked up to a projector (for movies/TV), as well as a monitor (for music), and a range of different control devices to suit my mood (wireless keyboard, mouse, remote).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, I have an app called [Yatse](http://yatse.tv/redmine/projects/yatse) on my Android phone from which I can control everything over WiFi if I don't want to have any of the above devices turned on. It even lets me save multiple Kodi instances so I can control my friend's system when I'm at his house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally don't have any Apple products, but [this app](https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/official-kodi-remote/id520480364?mt=8) or [this one](https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/sybu-for-kodi-and-xbmc/id567524653?mt=8) look like viable alternatives to Yatse for an iPad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1151" RevisionGUID="81cb90bb-3d1a-407a-a62b-d84b9af69b5e" CreationDate="2015-11-08T23:36:55.863" UserId="91" Text="I will first focus on compatability.&#xD;&#xA;On the Newegg Page for the MOBO:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1 x ATX 24-pin power connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1 x ATX 4-pin 12V CPU power connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are standard ATX PSU Connectors that can be found on every ATX-Compatible Power Supply. However, the power supply that you chose is considered not that good in the PC Building Community. At that same price-point ($45), I would recommend the [SeaSonic M12II 520][1] as it is made by a manufacturer with a good reputation and even though it is more expensive, it will be able to put out a full 500W which the Corsair unit would not be able to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1152" RevisionGUID="4a7e7d2e-6fa3-4d9d-9d8c-63a6e22090ba" CreationDate="2015-11-09T01:45:46.717" UserId="886" Text="You might consider looking for a used point of sale system.  I've played with PARs, Microses, and Alohas and have never had any trouble with Debian.  Even the touchscreens generally work with out of the box installations.&#xD;&#xA;Certainly not as fuel efficient as a Pi (though POSes do still use processors designed for efficiency rather than performance), but definitely a little more robust. They also depreciate VERY quickly.  You can get one with decent processing power for cheap on the ebay, and parts for the more popular models are usually plentiful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="bbb0d327-5c68-491e-8a65-24091ac4285d" CreationDate="2015-11-09T05:45:55.563" UserId="171" Comment="added figure" Text="Is there any hardware which can consume connection from 3G/4G SIM, LAN Ethernet cable, existing low range WiFi and can provide it as wifi access point and LAN, both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New WiFi from this hardware should have consistent access, regardless which underlying connectivity it uses. It would be better if it is portable. &#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using WL722N as wifi range extender, but I need to start my desktop PC everytime, to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If its not possible in single device, recommend me combination of devices, with minimum cost. I expect it to serve 5 to 10 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zExxQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="bbb0d327-5c68-491e-8a65-24091ac4285d" CreationDate="2015-11-09T05:45:55.563" UserId="171" Comment="added figure" Text="WiFi range extender + router + bult-in data card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="524" RevisionGUID="b4b59064-d916-4185-89a0-8759c1b03084" CreationDate="2015-11-09T12:41:31.027" UserId="203" Comment="fixed grammar" Text="Any overclockable Intel CPU, if you're willing, or the [i7 4790K ($317.99@SuperBiiz)][1] if you're not. Don't just look at clock speed. AMD's FX 9590 has a 5 GHz boost speed, but is slower than Intel's offerings because of a low IPC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good budget option for overclockers is the dual core [Pentium G3258 ($64.99@NCIX)][2], at a mere U$65. Intel released this **unlocked** CPU for celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Pentium brand. With decent cooling, [it can easily match the frequency][3], and therefore single core performance (approximately), of the i7 that is U$250 more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option, featuring Intel's new Skylake architecture, is the [i5 6600K ($248.95@Amazon)][4], which gives an average overclock of [4.5 GHz on air][5]. Because it uses a newer microarchitecture, it is, clock for clock, about 5% faster than the Haswell CPUs like the 4790K and the G3258.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also allows you to purchase more, faster RAM, as the Skylake platform supports DDR4. Because of the newer, less mature technology, the total price of the system is likely to be around the same as one with the 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=I7-4790KBX&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=97890&amp;promoid=1111&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/pentium_g3258/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8M7TY/?tag=pcpapi-20&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/core_i5_6600k/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1155" RevisionGUID="c48e80e3-dc37-4409-b391-d4a5f4dbbe87" CreationDate="2015-11-09T14:39:57.497" UserId="890" Text="I have a couple laptops that I'd like to remote into, but they have restrictions in place that prevent me from installing remote software. Is there a hardware solution that I can use to access them over the Internet?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking maybe something that emulates a keyboard, mouse, and screen that would redirect those over the Internet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1155" RevisionGUID="c48e80e3-dc37-4409-b391-d4a5f4dbbe87" CreationDate="2015-11-09T14:39:57.497" UserId="890" Text="What hardware can turn a keyboard, mouse, and monitor into a remote desktop solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1155" RevisionGUID="c48e80e3-dc37-4409-b391-d4a5f4dbbe87" CreationDate="2015-11-09T14:39:57.497" UserId="890" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1142" RevisionGUID="d0cd77a0-7fec-42bc-8581-d8342e2b3064" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:35:18.557" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;enderland&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1156" RevisionGUID="1875d6f5-63b6-43f9-b196-3e0716968443" CreationDate="2015-11-09T16:08:07.217" UserId="57" Text="You want a [KVM over IP device][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something similar to [TRIPP LITE B055-001][2], would work (assuming, in this case, the server has PS/2 ports for the keyboard and mouse). This model is about $120.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![TRIPP Lite B055-001][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are USB enabled ones as well, such as the [StarTech SV5USBM][4], which has only one USB connection. Adding on more connectors raises the price from about $100 to almost [$320][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch#KVM_over_IP_.28IPKVM.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2HM6818&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wfUor.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G28M4982&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2NU3455" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1158" RevisionGUID="e9591023-f9fb-4f94-a584-c25710627fc9" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:04:30.383" UserId="704" Text="I'm looking for a PSU recommendation for a setup below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 650D chassis&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5 4690K CPU&#xD;&#xA; - ASRock Extreme6 mobo&#xD;&#xA; - Radeon R9 290 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (2x 8GB)&#xD;&#xA; - 1x SSD 256GB&#xD;&#xA; - 1x 2TB SATA HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 2x 1TB SATA HDD as RAID1 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and to have some wiggle room to OC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range below $200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4072" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1158" RevisionGUID="e9591023-f9fb-4f94-a584-c25710627fc9" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:04:30.383" UserId="704" Text="PSU recommendation for new casual gaming setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1158" RevisionGUID="e9591023-f9fb-4f94-a584-c25710627fc9" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:04:30.383" UserId="704" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1159" RevisionGUID="030d73fd-55b2-4b96-8540-008e0cb20643" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:16:27.720" UserId="57" Text="A brief calculation from a [power calculator][1] puts that build at needing around 600W of power (I made some assumptions about memory type and number of fans, as well as optical drives). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case, I recommend [Corsair's AX760][2], [again][3]. This is above what should be required, giving you room to expand your components at a later date. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It also is 80 Plus Platinum certified&#xD;&#xA; - It is fully modular (only use cables you need)&#xD;&#xA; - It is quiet&#xD;&#xA; - It has a 7 year warranty &#xD;&#xA; - If the 760W is to close to the 600W you will need, it has a larger 860W version available for just a bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It retails for $190, but is on sale on Newegg for $150 right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139042&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1160" RevisionGUID="e47a218a-0f69-438b-8b3f-b6d8b1c20a7b" CreationDate="2015-11-09T18:18:51.683" UserId="39" Text="First of all, I would make sure that you aren't circumventing any policies by using hardware rather than software, but I'll assume that the powers that be simply don't want you installing things on those laptops.  &#xD;&#xA;It sounds like you are looking for an **IP KVM** or KVM over IP.  The cost of such hardware may be more than you are hoping, but I think these available options are worth mentioning anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you have to pay so much for two of the below-mentioned &quot;Lantronix Spiders&quot;, I will start with an 8-port option such as **[TRIPP LITE 8-Port Steel Rackmount IP KVM Switch with On-Screen Display (B022-U08-IP)](http://www.amazon.com/8-Port-Rackmount-On-Screen-Display-B022-U08-IP/dp/B00CWUHZQI)**, which is currently just over $600 at Amazon.  It comes with cables to connect **two devices**, and, unlike some other 8-port products, the IP capabilities are built in, so you don't have to buy two pieces of hardware.  On similar products, I have found that the software leaves a little to be desired, but it gets the job done.  Like the Lantronix, this device is transparent to the machine you connect it to, so there is no need to install software there.  I would recommend this device above the Lantronix if you have the space and cash because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It remotely supports resolutions up to 1600 x 1200&#xD;&#xA;* You can add more devices if needed [(extra cables are usually available for ~$12 each new)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-B020-U08-B022-U16-P778-006/dp/B002OHDGCQ/)&#xD;&#xA;* Included cables are 6ft long, so you may be able to hid the 1U device under a desk.&#xD;&#xA;* Although you may never use this, the device can also be used as a local KVM switch (supporting up to 2048 x 1536).&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;code&gt;speculation:&lt;/code&gt;This box may still have *some* resell value in a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One caveat for this device (or any other KVM that functions this way) is that, since you are accessing a laptop, you will need VGA out on the laptop, and you will probably want to close the lid or set the laptop to mirror or exclusively use the external &quot;VGA monitor&quot; (the KVM switch) in order to make this work properly.  Otherwise, you won't see everything the laptop is displaying, if you see anything at all.  With any of the options I am recommending, you must connect the network port to the network, not the laptop.  Additionally, in order to access any of these devices from outside of the local network, you will need either a VPN or port forwarding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your purposes, I would also recommend you consider something like the **[Lantronix Spider SLS200USB0-01](http://store.lantronix.com/product_p/SLS200USB0-01.htm)**, currently available at [Newegg for USD278.99](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817490003).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* This device is transparent to the machine you connect it to, so there is no need to install software there.&#xD;&#xA;* It has a built in two-port switch, so you can daisy-chain two of these together with only one network drop&#xD;&#xA;* Only supports resolutions of up to 1280 x 1024&#xD;&#xA;* Less expensive than some other options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same display/VGA and networking caveats apply to this device, though, because there is a 2-port switch built in, if you only have one network drop in the room, you can plug it into this device and pass through to another device if needed.  Also, since you have two laptops you need to reach, **you will need two of these**.  I should also mention that I have not personally used this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since other options are pricy, I think it is worth mentioning that my first instinct was to recommend the **StarTech.com IPUSB2VGA**&#xD;&#xA;[(StarTech Product Page)](http://www.startech.com/AV/Extenders/VGA/Ethernet-to-VGA-over-IP-Converter~IPUSB2VGA).&#xD;&#xA;As of this writing, it is available on [Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-IPUSB2VGA-Ethernet-over-Converter/dp/B004C3Y07U) for $117.93; the MSRP is USD181.99. While my experiences with StarTech products have been good, and the price for this device is not bad, **I can't recommend** this to *you* because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* This device seems to **require software** to function properly, so it may not fit your purpose for that reason, depending upon the specifics of the policies you are dealing with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Due to limitations in the client software, you **cannot access this device from another subnet**, which means it won't work for you if you need to access it from the Internet (though it might be possible through a VPN, depending upon the configuration).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, this device might be attractive in certain cases because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;* It acts as a video and audio adapter and doesn't require VGA out.&#xD;&#xA;* Supports up to 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not personally used this particular device, but it will send your USB, video, and audio signals over the network, allowing you to access them from a remote PC.  I would recommend using a gigabit connection for best results, though this won't matter as much if you can get it to work over WAN (through the Internet, probably using a VPN)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1156" RevisionGUID="8a1b83aa-1041-4fdb-8301-efd0f81c4eeb" CreationDate="2015-11-09T18:30:01.357" UserId="57" Comment="added 190 characters in body" Text="You want a [KVM over IP device][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something similar to [TRIPP LITE B055-001][2], would work (assuming, in this case, the server has PS/2 ports for the keyboard and mouse). This model is about $120.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![TRIPP Lite B055-001][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are USB enabled ones as well, such as the [StarTech SV5USBM][4], which has only one USB connection. Adding on more connectors raises the price from about $100 to almost [$320][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note: I've not used these specific devices. They appear to be marketed toward consumers, directly, versus the KVMIP devices I've used in a data center that cost between $2-3K each.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch#KVM_over_IP_.28IPKVM.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2HM6818&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wfUor.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G28M4982&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2NU3455&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1164" RevisionGUID="caabe322-87b9-46ca-ac3e-ad298c8a4069" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:44:04.413" UserId="714" Text="FWIW I run the following config in my living room:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Case: [RAIDMAX Element ATX-101BG][1]&#xD;&#xA;* Mobo: some mini-itx board, AsRock maybe?&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: i5-4690&#xD;&#xA;* GPU: [GTX 970 Reference][2]&#xD;&#xA;* SSD: 240GB Corsair GS&#xD;&#xA;* HDD: Western Digital Black 2TB&#xD;&#xA;* Fans: stock CPU fan, large fan at top of case&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 16GB @ 1866&#xD;&#xA;* PSU: CORSAIR CX series CX500M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using Kill-A-Watt meter, if my memory serves me right then I peaked around 350 watts when I tortured it with Prime95 and FurMark at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I play Witcher 3 on max settings with hairworks set to 2xAA for hours on end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156313&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132038" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1165" RevisionGUID="f7a14b49-3cbf-4f3e-b903-4c59b6fd725e" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:47:37.873" UserId="845" Text="Alright, I am looking for a fairly priced CPU that will not hold back the ASUS STRIX GTX 970 very little or not at all. Preferably Intel, as their processor lineup shows to last longer for generations in gaming. Also hoping to use this for Fallout 4. &#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1165" RevisionGUID="f7a14b49-3cbf-4f3e-b903-4c59b6fd725e" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:47:37.873" UserId="845" Text="Bottlenecking: GTX 970 &amp; AMD FX-6300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1165" RevisionGUID="f7a14b49-3cbf-4f3e-b903-4c59b6fd725e" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:47:37.873" UserId="845" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1164" RevisionGUID="bf8a54df-d782-4e53-bc15-122607d42f02" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:49:39.807" UserId="714" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="FWIW I run the following config in my living room:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Case: [RAIDMAX Element ATX-101BG][1]&#xD;&#xA;* Mobo: some mini-itx board, AsRock maybe?&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: i5-4690&#xD;&#xA;* GPU: [GTX 970 Reference][2]&#xD;&#xA;* SSD: 240GB Corsair GS&#xD;&#xA;* HDD: Western Digital Black 2TB&#xD;&#xA;* Fans: stock CPU fan, large fan at top of case&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 16GB @ 1866&#xD;&#xA;* PSU: CORSAIR CX series CX500M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using Kill-A-Watt meter, if my memory serves me right then I peaked around 350 watts when I tortured it with Prime95 and FurMark at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 90°C, GPU 80°C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I play Witcher 3 on max settings with hairworks set to 2xAA for hours on end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 70°C, GPU 80°C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I have a larger case then there would definitely be room for better cooling but I never intend to OC and Prime95 is a highly edge-case temperature scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Idle temps, cool as a cucumber:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 35°C, GPU: 35°C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156313&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132038" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1166" RevisionGUID="bc1d06de-3b17-41b9-bc5b-845e1da75827" CreationDate="2015-11-09T21:09:48.950" UserId="91" Text="The minimum requrment for Fallout 4 is a i5-2300 and the recommended is a i7-4970k. The current recomendation on PC Building Communities is to go with either the i5-4690k or the i5-6600k. These two are almost equal in gaming performance, but the 6600K is newer and runs on a new socket and technology. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best recommendation is a 6600K on the Z170 platform for overclocking. Just be sure to get a CPU Cooler as the 6600K doesn't include one. Also be sure to get DDR4 Ram. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are upgrading and already have a LGA1150 Processor, just go with the i5-4690K on the Z97 Platform, which uses DDR3." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1167" RevisionGUID="70f5e828-62db-45ae-86b2-b68405f6388d" CreationDate="2015-11-09T21:12:10.177" UserId="241" Text="I'm looking for an e-book reader or tablet for use in a kitchen.  Most of the recipes I use are in electronic form (saved web pages, scans of recipe cards, etc.), and running back and forth between the kitchen and the computer room while cooking is a bit annoying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Must be kitchen-proof.  That means surviving grease splatters, spills of boiling water, and the occasional dropped knife.&#xD;&#xA;2. Supports HTML, PDF, and either CBZ or folders full of images.&#xD;&#xA;3. Must be able to put files on it from Linux.&#xD;&#xA;4. Prefer an e-ink display.  I've found that backlit displays aren't very good when you're shifting your attention between the display and something else. &#xD;&#xA;5. No real price requirements, but less expensive is better.  Something that meets requirements 2-4 for less than $30 is also an option, because at that price, I can afford to replace it every time it gets destroyed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1167" RevisionGUID="70f5e828-62db-45ae-86b2-b68405f6388d" CreationDate="2015-11-09T21:12:10.177" UserId="241" Text="Kitchen-proof ebook reader for recipes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1167" RevisionGUID="70f5e828-62db-45ae-86b2-b68405f6388d" CreationDate="2015-11-09T21:12:10.177" UserId="241" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;ebook-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="c5cd3cbf-edd3-47c3-813d-2959f3fa38cb" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:15:04.120" UserId="476" Comment="Finished &lt;A&gt; tag" Text="A lot of points listed below are coming from personal experience due to me having a very similar laptop to the one I recommmended. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Lenovo-Notebook-i5-4210U-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B00Q2R29J0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1444129975&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lenovo+z50+nvidia&quot;&gt;Lenvo z50-70&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- First of all I think it is very important to have dedicated graphics card for heavy graphics load like video editing and gaming. In this use case the graphics card is the most important part of the laptop. Also Nvidia has very good technology called prime. The model I recommended has this technology, it uses your integrated intel graphics when not needing graphics performance like when browsing the web. If you need your graphics power like when editing video, the nvidia driver automatically kicks in with your powerfull nVidia card to get the performance needed. With this it is possible to save a lot of power (battery life). I personally love this feature and it works without problems on my lenovo with windows 8.1 and various Linux distros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- next up the display is better than on the i7 model but has the same resolution than the g50. Personally I like the full HD screen, it is very sharp and colors are good as well. A good display is also extremely important in this use case especially video editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The 256GB SSD makes your whole OS faster and is these days a must. It makes your programs faster and also your editing workflow more fluent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The processor is very decent and good enough for this use case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the nVidia GPU is slightly better than the AMD one (http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-M260DX-vs-GeForce-840M) and I think prime technology just isn't a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Depending on which OS you want to install nVidia and Intel is the way to go. I personally am not a fan of AMD Hardware because I'm a Linux user, I won't go into detail with this just know AMD can be a giant pain when using Linux. If using Linux, the nVidia drivers work perfectly with ubuntu/debian based distros and are very easy to install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only minus is the 4 GB of ram that normally should be enough, if not you can easily upgrade to 8GB for about 30€ (http://www.amazon.de/DDR3L-1600-SO-DIMM-1600Mhz-PC3L-12800S-Voltage/dp/B00IIRSIK6/ref=pd_sim_147_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1E7S7EWFK87F1EMHJJ1W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can spend a bit more go with the z50-70 I linked above to get better performance, if not your next best call probably is the AMD model z50. I would not recommend the i7 model g50 because it does not suit your needs at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I could help, Tanonic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="547" RevisionGUID="c5cd3cbf-edd3-47c3-813d-2959f3fa38cb" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:15:04.120" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 54, 1 edit id of 273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="4b2e9de1-63be-4d7b-bcb3-3020b3e04ccd" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:13:56.660" UserId="638" Comment="added 190 characters in body" Text="My old router died, and I want to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if I have to change the router, I want to try to see if I can do a setup like: Router + External Hard Drive + an android application maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically want to have a one-way sync of our pictures (my wife and I) to a HDD that is connected to the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sync would be through wi-fi, something like google is doing right now for me, but this time I would like to be in control of the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: what to look for in a router? I wouldn't want to spend too much, but I don't even know what to look for. Is it enough if the router has USB port on it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if there are routers that come with a special android app, or I can just try to look into some &quot;universal&quot; software like [this one][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: NAS device seems like a good idea, but it seems too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;I bought a RT-N18U router, and it has [this application][2] specifically made for it, we'll see how it works, I'll let you guys know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE 2:&#xD;&#xA;[I had some errors][3], but it works fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bv.wifisync&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asustek.aicloud&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/128352/syncme-failed-to-connect-to-computer-isconnected-failed-econnrefused-connecti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="5eace728-2ac1-4535-8142-ded99fff2a07" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:21:54.697" UserId="229" Comment="update on drum kit" Text="I am looking into getting a electronic drum kit that I can use for both recreational use (like an acoustic drum set) and for Rock Band 4, preferably with pro-cymbal support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about getting an ION drum kit, but I have found [this comment](http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5154130#Comment_5154130) amongst others in this thread.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Q: I play Rock Band with my ION Drum Kit. Will the ION Drum Kit, as well as other MIDI drum kits, be compatible with Rock Band 4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A: The short answer is “no, not at launch.” Our first priority is to make sure that the core Rock Band legacy instruments be compatible on day one when Rock Band 4 launches – and they will be! If you want to see ION support in Rock Band 4, you can let ION Audio know by contacting them here: http://www.ionaudio.com/support/. We know that many of you play Rock Band using these peripherals, and we are actively working on finding a solution to this compatibility issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an alternative to playing an e-kit with Rock Band 4 on Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, are there any adapters or extra accessories that I need to get as well?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I decided on the [Alesis Crimson Mesh Kit](https://www.alesis.com/crimson-mesh-kit) based on the level of customization provided at the price given. I noticed that it also has both USB and MIDI outputs. Now I am just looking for some kind of accessory or adapter to link my drum kit to RB4." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="5eace728-2ac1-4535-8142-ded99fff2a07" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:21:54.697" UserId="229" Comment="update on drum kit" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="0a80a517-25f4-43c7-a07b-9157e897137f" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:37:18.407" UserId="229" Comment="removed answer from question" Text="I am looking into getting a electronic drum kit that I can use for both recreational use (like an acoustic drum set) and for Rock Band 4, preferably with pro-cymbal support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about getting an ION drum kit, but I have found [this comment](http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5154130#Comment_5154130) amongst others in this thread.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Q: I play Rock Band with my ION Drum Kit. Will the ION Drum Kit, as well as other MIDI drum kits, be compatible with Rock Band 4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A: The short answer is “no, not at launch.” Our first priority is to make sure that the core Rock Band legacy instruments be compatible on day one when Rock Band 4 launches – and they will be! If you want to see ION support in Rock Band 4, you can let ION Audio know by contacting them here: http://www.ionaudio.com/support/. We know that many of you play Rock Band using these peripherals, and we are actively working on finding a solution to this compatibility issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an alternative to playing an e-kit with Rock Band 4 on Xbox One?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1174" RevisionGUID="287d923a-888e-467a-bc78-f878bf937e03" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:45:44.717" UserId="229" Text="I went to my Guitar Center and talked with one of the drum techs and decided on the [Alesis Crimson Mesh Kit](https://www.alesis.com/crimson-mesh-kit) based on the level of customization provided at the price given. This kit gives me the feel of an acoustic drum set with the added ability to make my own sounds while having room to expand. I noticed that it also has both USB and MIDI outputs so this will help out with either editing my live drum sessions on the computer or plug this setup into an adapter for Rock Band." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="afa6d935-7901-4171-836c-962d25527110" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:52:51.750" UserId="229" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="afa6d935-7901-4171-836c-962d25527110" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:52:51.750" UserId="229" Text="Adapter To Play an Electronic Drum Kit to Rock Band 4 on Xbox One" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="afa6d935-7901-4171-836c-962d25527110" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:52:51.750" UserId="229" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="afb0432e-d45a-475e-b071-1c83eedd9eeb" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:00:51.007" UserId="229" Comment="edited title" Text="Adapter to play an electronic drum kit to Rock Band 4 on Xbox One" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="240c84be-27d2-4e73-ac4d-a5906c7cc2a0" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:24:57.950" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4148" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1177" RevisionGUID="11a9d624-f05e-4b6a-95ca-ad844d26fe92" CreationDate="2015-11-10T21:46:19.687" UserId="907" Text="Most home/consumer gateway devices (commonly called routers) will not be able to handle this volume of traffic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One alternative to consider is products from [Ubiquiti Networks][1] as they have several that should fit your need and the prices compare with consumer type products (there are others besides what I list, check their site if you want more detail).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [EdgeRouter Lite][2] - I have used these at several non-profit sites, they work well and at about $100 you can't go too far wrong.&#xD;&#xA; - [EdgeRouter X][3] - a bit lower performance (still up to 1Gbps with 1518 byte packets) at about half the cost as the above. I haven't used these personally, but I understand the underlying software is a bit different.&#xD;&#xA; - [Unifi Security Gateway][4] - similar performance specs to the [EdgeRouter Lite][2], but managed through their Unifi controller software (provided free but meant to run on a computer/server). I haven't used this Unifi product, but have deployed access points from the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;None of these products have wireless built in, for that you would need to look at alternatives such as turning your current router into an access point or buying access points.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them may have more features and be more complex than your typical home or consumer device, so the learning curve may be new if you aren't familiar with networking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speaking for the [EdgeRouter Lite][2] which I have used, it does have a GUI and some wizards for basic configuration, but to unlock all the possible features/configuration you many need to delve into the command line interface (CLI). This has become less true over the life of the product as they continue to develop it, but will always likely be true for some features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the plus column, Ubiquiti has a very active [user community][5] that is very helpful if you have questions or problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://www.ubnt.com/&#xD;&#xA;[2]:https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-lite/&#xD;&#xA;[3]:https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/&#xD;&#xA;[4]:https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching-routing/usg/&#xD;&#xA;[5]:https://community.ubnt.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="a534b2a9-35d6-4195-a2b4-6a4cec1f8639" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:35:31.860" UserId="229" Comment="added sources and research" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source (very long thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1165" RevisionGUID="bf060fdb-24f2-47bb-94db-9e04f8055cc3" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:37:16.503" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4157" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="c45f3c1d-11c2-4b62-a54b-a1126de6cf14" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:46:08.480" UserId="229" Comment="fixing my question" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source (very long and ongoing thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**To Sum Up**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is either some kind of custom made (or official) adapter that can pass the e-kit to the Xbox One directly or a method of using an older RB or GH drum set as a pass-through device (with detailed instructions).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only **requirement** on top of basic Rock Band drumming functionality is to be compatible with &quot;Pro-Cymbal Mode&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="c45f3c1d-11c2-4b62-a54b-a1126de6cf14" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:46:08.480" UserId="229" Comment="fixing my question" Text="Need a solution to play an electronic drum kit on Rock Band 4 on Xbox One" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1181" RevisionGUID="1b5d7be2-7222-4fa7-a765-45c656b00c24" CreationDate="2015-11-11T02:36:17.860" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend a resistive touch screen for outdoor/rugged devices. Resistive touch screens uses two sheets of non conductive material with conductive material in between the two sheets. When the sheet is pressed, a current is allowed through and a touch is registered. Unlike capacitive touch screens (found on most smartphones/tablets these days) it is more durable and can be used with gloved hands. The downside to this is that it is not super precise and will need calibration from time to time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1182" RevisionGUID="366dfb5e-565f-42d8-be4a-1de0cbed0ed6" CreationDate="2015-11-11T02:41:08.207" UserId="912" Text="I would say to get a Intel Pentium G3258 and a Mini ITX motherboard with the LGA 1150 socket. 8GB of the cheapest DDR3 RAM would work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1185" RevisionGUID="dbee9207-31bc-44ce-8df1-a9e46fd4ad4c" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:53:40.983" UserId="803" Text="I'm buying a new PC on a relatively tight budget so I decided to reuse my old GPU and get a new one later. I'm now considering getting an &lt;a href=&quot;http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&quot;&gt;i5-4460&lt;/a&gt; as my CPU and I noticed it comes with an integrated graphics card, the Intel HD Graphics 4600 (specifications are in the CPU link).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to know is how does that compare to my old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-9600-gt/specifications&quot;&gt;Geforce 9600 GT&lt;/a&gt;? More specifically, is the integrated GPU so good that it makes keeping my old GPU unnecessary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using my PC for gaming (Skyrim, League of Legends, Crusader Kings 2, etc.) as well as more serious work. Possibly a bit of video editing if I ever get into that. And as mentioned, I'm planning to get a modern GPU in the $150-250 range as soon as I can afford it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1185" RevisionGUID="dbee9207-31bc-44ce-8df1-a9e46fd4ad4c" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:53:40.983" UserId="803" Text="How good is the Intel HD Graphics 4600 compared to my 7 year old GeForce 9600 GT?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1185" RevisionGUID="dbee9207-31bc-44ce-8df1-a9e46fd4ad4c" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:53:40.983" UserId="803" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1185" RevisionGUID="70c68139-65d3-4579-8465-23759904b2c4" CreationDate="2015-11-11T12:08:00.427" UserId="803" Comment="improved formatting" Text="I'm buying a new PC on a relatively tight budget so I decided to reuse my old GPU and get a new one later. I'm now considering getting an i5-4460 as my CPU and I noticed it comes with an integrated graphics card, the Intel HD Graphics 4600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to know is how does that compare to my old Geforce 9600 GT? More specifically, is the integrated GPU so good that it makes keeping my old GPU unnecessary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using my PC for gaming (Skyrim, League of Legends, Crusader Kings 2, etc.) as well as more serious work. Possibly a bit of video editing if I ever get into that. And as mentioned, I'm planing to get a decent modern GPU as soon as I can afford it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Links:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;1. &lt;a href=&quot;http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&quot;&gt;i5-4460 and Intel HD 4600 specifications&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;2. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-9600-gt/specifications&quot;&gt;Geforce 9600 GT specifications&lt;/a&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1186" RevisionGUID="0049a2ff-7b68-4e57-987e-d2646062d521" CreationDate="2015-11-11T17:33:46.600" UserId="8" Text="Integrated GPU's will never be as good as a dedicated graphics card because of the space constraint: when the GPU is integrated with the CPU, there is far less space for the GPU to fit into, so not as much graphics processing power can fit in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the HD 4600 is two generations above what I have in my laptop, the HD 4400. My graphics card is suitable for playing old games (~7 years) on high settings, or for playing games that aren't graphics-intensive on OK settings. It will *not* play modern games like Fallout 4, Just Cause 4 or GTA V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking into building a dedicated gaming platform, I would highly recommend that you get a dedicated graphics card. If you want to future-proof your system, get something top of the range. If you want a balance between future proofing and cost, I'd recommend something like the Nvidia GTX 9700 or the AMD R9-280." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="3b921c1d-bb89-4ba7-8ec5-ab25dd99bba5" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:17:49.187" UserId="916" Text="I need to buy or build a Raid 5 NAS system that is somewhat reliable. 70% of its use will be for storage (such as for back ups), the remaining 30% will be for accessing files from the Intranet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at an entry level NAS system (4 or 5 bays) I found it to go from $200 to about $800, an amount of money that I cannot afford.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a working PC sitting in the storage room unused with these specs: an AMD Quadcore, 8Gb Ram, a standard 18&quot; display, a video card (unsure what kind) and of course a MB (also unsure what kind). Eventually i can add a 120Gb SSD to run the OS.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody from AskUbuntu suggested me to look into FreeNas and I was wondering if it is difficoult for a newbie to create a NAS system with FreeNas on this separated PC. I plan to add all my spare HDD (5 x 250GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="3b921c1d-bb89-4ba7-8ec5-ab25dd99bba5" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:17:49.187" UserId="916" Text="Freenas VS commercial NAS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="3b921c1d-bb89-4ba7-8ec5-ab25dd99bba5" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:17:49.187" UserId="916" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="f9a197a7-e2e6-4959-90a7-c922fa81de20" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:36:54.390" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4183" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="e4f0e0a0-d951-4429-8e8a-3d9f43837d71" CreationDate="2015-11-11T20:31:54.910" UserId="229" Comment="fix title" Text="Solution to play an electronic drum kit on Rock Band 4 on Xbox One" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1188" RevisionGUID="8d6796a5-f134-40a1-ab42-a2c5a48b9c6e" CreationDate="2015-11-11T21:02:52.963" UserId="241" Text="The answer is &quot;it depends&quot;.  The [Tomshardware graphics hierarchy][1] places your 9600 GT seven steps above a HD 4600, where three steps is the minimum worthwhile upgrade.  However, the hierarchy is strictly about pixel-pushing ability.  Your 9600 GT only supports DirectX 10 and OpenGL 2.1, and doesn't support OpenCL at all.  In contrast, the integrated GPU supports DirectX 12, OpenGL 4.3, and OpenCL 1.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're doing things that require the new functionality (say, playing newly-released games), it doesn't matter that the 9600 is much faster than the 4600: the 9600 is simply unable to do what's needed of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="fce0cb6a-5a40-4f0c-a16f-27e209b91cd6" CreationDate="2015-11-11T22:10:57.987" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1186" RevisionGUID="0ac4078b-a49c-4efd-8fc2-8f8ce59f99f2" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:25:40.383" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Integrated GPU's will never be as good as a dedicated graphics card because of the space constraint: when the GPU is integrated with the CPU, there is far less space for the GPU to fit into, so not as much graphics processing power can fit in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the HD 4600 is two generations above what I have in my laptop, the HD 4400. My graphics card is suitable for playing old games (~7 years) on high settings, or for playing games that aren't graphics-intensive on OK settings. It will *not* play modern games like Fallout 4, Just Cause 4 or GTA V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking into building a dedicated gaming platform, I would highly recommend that you get a dedicated graphics card. If you want to future-proof your system, get something top of the range. If you want a balance between future proofing and cost, I'd recommend something like the Nvidia GTX 970 or the AMD R9-280." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1190" RevisionGUID="5e4a5d43-85b8-496d-9190-ce5aa463dc35" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:01:22.790" UserId="922" Text="The Arduino is probably one of the best options out there. Another board that you might find interesting is the SimpleLink Wi-FI CC3200 Launchpad. You can program the board via two ways, which are Code Composer Studio (CCS) by TI and Energia (which is basically an Arduino IDE fork). There is a MOD version of this board, but the only major difference is that some of the passives are integrated into a module (helpful if you plan to spin a PCB based on this MCU at a later stage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of them are free to use, and depending on your background in embedded systems, you might find CCS rather helpful in fine tuning it to what you want. As for the sleep modes, I think you have 4 power modes to work with, so low power should not be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Links:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ti.com/tool/cc3200-launchxl&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ti.com/product/cc3200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="ea4a562f-e0fc-4ed6-a7bb-203f56bd0c44" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:26:50.240" UserId="922" Comment="Added clarification for the Thinkpad name" Text="I would suggest to go with Lenovo Thinkpad (previously known as the IBM thinkpad). It's worth with the price as its durable. I have one friend who's developer and he use for a long time even with less configuration what you have described above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought my macbook pro in 2010 and works fine so far. No isses at all. I am using it to develop websites and couple of personal project. Use almost the same application what you're using except the android thing. Use GIT, Netbens, Adobe suite, ftp and etc. If I want to buy a new laptop at this stage I would definitely go with thinkpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My brother and good friend of mine having a DELL inspiron and they fed up with it in within a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with your search and purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="ea4a562f-e0fc-4ed6-a7bb-203f56bd0c44" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:26:50.240" Comment="Proposed by 922 approved by 155 edit id of 275" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="adefab49-0cb1-483f-83aa-3aa3d00e07d1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:32:32.920" UserId="916" Comment="deleted 119 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I need to build a Raid 5 NAS system mainly for storage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering to use FreeNas server: what hardware would you recommend for a system with 5 HDD (total 3.5TB)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have a pc sitting in my garage, not too old (quadcore, 8Gb ram, 120Gb SSD) but which has only three Sata access, so looking online I found this card: **SYBA SY-PCI40010 PCI SATA II (3.0 Gb/s) RAID Controller Card** (here the [link][1]) Do you think is posisble for me to connect three extra HDD to this card and create a Raid 5 system with a total of five or six HDD? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124028&amp;cm_re=raid_controller_card-_-16-124-028-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="adefab49-0cb1-483f-83aa-3aa3d00e07d1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:32:32.920" UserId="916" Comment="deleted 119 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Freenas VS commercial NAS: what hardware would you reccomand?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1187" RevisionGUID="adefab49-0cb1-483f-83aa-3aa3d00e07d1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:32:32.920" UserId="916" Comment="deleted 119 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4198" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="427" RevisionGUID="6d32dccf-7c76-4973-a80d-378972759514" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:08:06.270" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 39 characters in body" Text="[VIVO Triple LCD Monitor Desk Mount][1] seems reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **VESA Mount (75 X 75 &amp; 100 X 100 mounting holes)**&#xD;&#xA;- Tilt: -15 to +15 Degree - Swivel: 360 Degree - Rotate: 360 Degree&#xD;&#xA;- Heavy Duty &amp; High Grade Steel and Aluminum&#xD;&#xA;- Fits Three Screens up to 24&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated cable management system &#xD;&#xA;- Monitor can be installed either in portrait or landscape shape &#xD;&#xA;- Fully adjustable arms &#xD;&#xA;- Center Post is 18&quot; tall and the mounting brackets are exactly 21&quot; on center (apart)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V003/dp/B009S7ALH8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wxe1Em.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s3wDLm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="284" RevisionGUID="c8439a08-540e-4830-9ffe-92141ba0a897" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:11:40.153" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'd also recommend a **Samson** company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a problem with buying second-hand items, you can get a **Samson Go Mic** for less than $30 or buy a brand new one for $38 from [amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Portable USB condenser microphone &#xD;&#xA; - Plug and Play &#xD;&#xA; - Useful clip (you don't have to buy another accessory to keep it in a place) &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Natural&quot; sound (perfect for podcasts) - check this [comparison][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very popular model and you can find reliable reviews [like this one][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6zmJ23RCKU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InhS6xOoPwc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/78YAFm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/duJ7im.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JuIKRm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="9cd1c750-d8a8-4ca6-867e-f9f2cec21949" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:29:56.197" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 106 characters in body" Text="I want a phone, and I don't need 3G/4G/5G/Whatever other Gs there are. Just WiFi. I have been considering the [LG Optimus Exceed 2](http://www.lg.com/us/cell-phones/lg-VS450PP-optimus-exceed-2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Price: $40 including shipping&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size must be in between **4&quot;** and **5.5&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution must be **higher or equal** to **800 x 400**&#xD;&#xA; - Must be touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Must have **802.11g WiFi** or **better**.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have at least **4GB** of **internal storage** and have at least **1.25GB** available&#xD;&#xA; - Must have either **Android** or **Windows**&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD slot **must support up to 32GB!**&#xD;&#xA; - Must support **class 10** SD cards&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a **speaker and microphone**&#xD;&#xA; - Chassis should be less than **0.5&quot;** thick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care if...&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - it's prepaid&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have 2G/3G/4G&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have a rear camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strong Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - being able to install apps on the MicroSD card&#xD;&#xA; - screen size greater than **4.4&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - front camera resolution greater than **1920 x 1080**&#xD;&#xA; - **12 hours** of endurance with the battery **(standby)** and at least **3 hours** when **being used**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like it to boot up before **the next ice age comes and goes!!!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1135" RevisionGUID="b2a6f32b-a38f-4fe7-aca3-5f6a23184172" CreationDate="2015-11-12T09:45:05.463" UserId="155" Comment="appended answer 1183 as supplemental" Text="I'm a student and a programmer. I want to buy a laptop which I will use as a workstation. It should be very powerful as well as portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: $1750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least 16 GB of RAM (I will possibly play a little with virtual machines)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's HQ processor of the sixth generation would be the best. I don't want ultra-low voltage cpu.&#xD;&#xA;- maximum 2,3 kg of weight&#xD;&#xA;- 14 or 15 inch screen matte/antiglare screen with good resolution (HD+, FHD or better)&#xD;&#xA;- not a MSI (I hate their keyboards), not a Macbook&#xD;&#xA;- replaceable HDD (I already have mSATA SSD, I would like to install it using SATA adapter)&#xD;&#xA;- not super expensive&#xD;&#xA;- docking port would be a plus&#xD;&#xA;- good battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist?&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;There are some good laptops coming. I will probably go with Dell Precision 5000 (new version) or Dell XPS. I'm waiting for the end of this year to buy it. I'm not sure about the prices though. We'll see." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="7df5c54a-6689-48dd-81dc-734aa2bdb997" CreationDate="2015-11-12T12:59:34.690" UserId="924" Comment="Fixed some grammar, and tidied up lines." Text="I will answer my own question.    &#xD;&#xA;I ended up buying a `SanDisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16 GB` (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC runs more than smoothly on it.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB seems to be a good size. OSMC takes less than 300 MB but metadata, thumbnails, artworks and add-ons are also stored on the SD card.    &#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (~20 GB) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same R/W speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="7df5c54a-6689-48dd-81dc-734aa2bdb997" CreationDate="2015-11-12T12:59:34.690" Comment="Proposed by 924 approved by 753 edit id of 276" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="5ef04339-4471-430e-b87c-c6e42e316205" CreationDate="2015-11-12T14:08:11.807" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [7bf917ab-1133-486f-a560-59a35079ef3b]" Text="I will answer my own question.&#xD;&#xA;I end-up buying a SanDisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16 GB (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC run more than smoothly on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB seems to be a good size. OSMC take less than 300 MB but the metadata, thumbnails, artworks and add-ons are also stored on the SD card.&#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (20 GB) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same R/W speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1101" RevisionGUID="8b8eedde-da5e-4ebf-bd5a-bf1e777c759f" CreationDate="2015-11-12T14:09:09.767" UserId="8" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I will answer my own question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up buying a SanDisk extreme plus micro SDHC 16 GB (20€).&#xD;&#xA;OSMC runs more than smoothly on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB seems to be a good size. OSMC takes less than 300 MB but the metadata, thumbnails, artworks and add-ons are also stored on the SD card.&#xD;&#xA;I'm able to play my heaviest movies (20 GB) through NFS without issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any card with the same R/W speed should do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="0d858a9e-63ac-4956-85b8-051cd461f3f9" CreationDate="2015-11-12T18:09:04.527" UserId="927" Text="I wanted to buy a laptop for programming. &#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like `Visual Studio 2015`,`SQL Server`, `netbeans`,`android studio` `Photoshop` , git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched and found `HP ProoBook 450 G2`according to my budget&#xD;&#xA;but i am confuse about Generations.&#xD;&#xA;Let suppose i have these two choices..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i5 5th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive : 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - Ram : 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics : 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i7 4th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive : 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - Ram : 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics : 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Question:** Which one is the best and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="0d858a9e-63ac-4956-85b8-051cd461f3f9" CreationDate="2015-11-12T18:09:04.527" UserId="927" Text="Hp ProBook 450 G2 core i5 5th Gen vs core i7 4th Gen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="0d858a9e-63ac-4956-85b8-051cd461f3f9" CreationDate="2015-11-12T18:09:04.527" UserId="927" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1190" RevisionGUID="36ffd73b-fedb-4b3b-a3aa-9b27b2c1403d" CreationDate="2015-11-12T18:51:38.193" UserId="922" Comment="Added MCU features and brief description" Text="The Arduino is probably one of the best options out there. Another board that you might find interesting is the SimpleLink Wi-FI CC3200 Launchpad. You can program the board via two ways, which are Code Composer Studio (CCS) by TI and Energia (which is basically an Arduino IDE fork). There is a MOD version of this board, but the only major difference is that some of the passives are integrated into a module (helpful if you plan to spin a PCB based on this MCU at a later stage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of them are free to use, and depending on your background in embedded systems, you might find CCS rather helpful in fine tuning it to what you want. As for the sleep modes, I think you have 4 power modes to work with, so low power should not be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Links:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ti.com/tool/cc3200-launchxl&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ti.com/product/cc3200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not being more detailed on the MCU. Here are some of the highlights of this MCU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ARM Cortex-M4 Core at 80 MHz &#xD;&#xA; - Embedded Memory Options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Integrated Serial&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM (up to 256KB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Peripheral Drivers in ROM&#xD;&#xA; - Hardware Crypto Engine for Advanced Hardware Security Including&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AES, DES, and 3DES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SHA and MD5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CRC and Checksum&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8-Bit, Fast, Parallel Camera Interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 Multichannel Audio Serial Port (McASP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interface With Support for I2S Format&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 1 SD (MMC) Interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 32-Channel Micro Direct Memory Access&#xD;&#xA;(μDMA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 2 Universal Asynchronous&#xD;&#xA;Receivers/Transmitters (UARTs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 2 Serial Peripheral Interfaces (SPIs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 1 Inter-integrated Circuit (I2C)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 4 General-Purpose Timers (GPTs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 16-Bit Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM) Mode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 1 Watchdog Timer Module&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;– 4-Channel 12-Bit Analog-to-Digital Converters &#xD;&#xA;(ADCs) &#xD;&#xA;– Up to 25 Individually Programmable GPIO Pins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a 32 bit ARM processor, but it can definitely do pretty low power stuff. This is the datasheet for the CC3200MOD. http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cc3200mod.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current consumption numbers are on page 27." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="fce54621-fa7b-4821-a4be-65d10bafe201" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:13:29.823" UserId="927" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="I wanted to buy a laptop for programming. &#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like `Visual Studio 2015`,`SQL Server`, `netbeans`,`android studio` `Photoshop` , git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched and found `HP ProoBook 450 G2`according to my budget&#xD;&#xA;but i am confuse about Generations.&#xD;&#xA;Let suppose i have these two choices..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i5 5th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive : 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - Ram : 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics : 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i7 4th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive : 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - Ram : 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics : 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Question:** `Which one do you think is better and why`?is i7 4th generation better then i5 5th generation? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="d8994f73-d098-40e1-b6f8-777b0c0068f0" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:32:18.133" UserId="928" Text="I'm searching a laptop, principally for programming and web (YouTube, Twitter...)&#xA;My budget is 550 € (can't go up) and I don't have OS preference.&#xA;These guys will really help me, I have search everywhere but didn't find any good laptop.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for your help (and sorry for my English),&#xA;Inesion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="d8994f73-d098-40e1-b6f8-777b0c0068f0" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:32:18.133" UserId="928" Text="Search a laptop for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="d8994f73-d098-40e1-b6f8-777b0c0068f0" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:32:18.133" UserId="928" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="0944c5f7-1be8-4f50-b8f4-3124eabb4f17" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:49:33.623" UserId="929" Text="We currently have most of our in house techs with fluke net cable verifier. I am simply asking if it is possible or if there is hardware to cut out the cable tester for our techs that already have a company phone, and use an application to test. obviously SOME hardware will have to be involved, through USB or 1/8th inch, similar to smartphone credit card readers. I am just asking if there is a similar method for cable verification. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="0944c5f7-1be8-4f50-b8f4-3124eabb4f17" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:49:33.623" UserId="929" Text="How do you test cat5e/fiber with a mobile device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="0944c5f7-1be8-4f50-b8f4-3124eabb4f17" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:49:33.623" UserId="929" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="7f2159a8-6613-44c5-87bf-6af8a6d693c3" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:59:06.277" UserId="928" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="I'm searching a laptop, principally for programming and web (YouTube, Twitter...)&#xA;My budget is 550 € (can't go up) and I don't have OS preference.&#xA;A minimum of 6GB of ram, quad core processor will be good and no graphic card needed. &#xA;These guys will really help me, I have search everywhere but didn't find any good laptop.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for your help (and sorry for my English),&#xA;Inesion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="b906f4b4-918e-4950-8f34-2d6ed2dd690e" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:02:11.590" UserId="476" Comment="Added a list, to make it easy to understand" Text="I'm searching a laptop, principally for programming and web (YouTube, Twitter...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - My budget is 550 €&#xD;&#xA; - A minimum of 6GB of ram&#xD;&#xA; - Quad core processor&#xD;&#xA; - No GPU needed&#xD;&#xA; - No OS preference&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help (and sorry for my English),&#xD;&#xA;Inesion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="b906f4b4-918e-4950-8f34-2d6ed2dd690e" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:02:11.590" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="96092ba2-1b2e-4c62-ac15-d8f1db98181d" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:02:11.590" UserId="8" Comment="remove thanks" Text="I'm searching a laptop, principally for programming and web (YouTube, Twitter...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - My budget is 550 €&#xD;&#xA; - A minimum of 6GB of ram&#xD;&#xA; - Quad core processor&#xD;&#xA; - No GPU needed&#xD;&#xA; - No OS preference" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="b61a028e-1c78-45c7-98d0-ef74a8638feb" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:02:32.700" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4242" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="f8a02415-6af6-44f6-8f06-f09f6e228b58" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:03:56.117" UserId="8" Comment="from http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/search-for-a-laptop" />
  <row Id="4244" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="3bbafa12-f3d7-4ebc-8981-ca518f64d27b" CreationDate="2015-11-13T01:52:08.877" UserId="1" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I'm searching a laptop, principally for programming and web (YouTube, Twitter...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - My budget is 550 €&#xD;&#xA; - A minimum of 6GB of ram&#xD;&#xA; - Quad core processor&#xD;&#xA; - No GPU needed&#xD;&#xA; - No OS preference" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4245" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1194" RevisionGUID="3bbafa12-f3d7-4ebc-8981-ca518f64d27b" CreationDate="2015-11-13T01:52:08.877" UserId="1" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="Laptop for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1197" RevisionGUID="7a97b749-d725-471f-9b26-aa5390fa7000" CreationDate="2015-11-13T02:12:49.257" UserId="476" Text="I recommend the [Dell Inspiron 15 5000][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Quad-core AMD A8-7410 CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10 Home 64 bit&#xD;&#xA; - 6GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - No dGPU, uses an APU&#xD;&#xA; - 768p screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-15-5555-laptop/pd?oc=dncwvamd6218h&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5555-laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="7f9ef08d-88de-48e9-b49e-7aa5dbe8fb11" CreationDate="2015-11-13T03:02:55.193" UserId="907" Comment="Edited to include content from the three questions posted on NE by same user" Text="My organization is looking for my help to find a possible solution for mobile phone CAT5e/6 or Fiber testing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our in house techs currently use a Fluke Networks cable verifier. Is there hardware to cut out the cable tester for our techs that already have a company phone, and use an application to test? We are just looking to the future and something to save costs since all of our techs have company phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously some sort of hardware will have to be involved, through USB or 1/8th inch, similar to smartphone credit card readers. I am just asking if there is a similar method for cable verification. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found this so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://pockethernet.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That one I am not so sure about, and they are not producing them at the moment it looks like. Any suggestions or comments are GREATLY welcomed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="7f9ef08d-88de-48e9-b49e-7aa5dbe8fb11" CreationDate="2015-11-13T03:02:55.193" UserId="907" Comment="Edited to include content from the three questions posted on NE by same user" Text="Hardware solution to test cat5e/fiber with a mobile device (iOS or Android)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="7f9ef08d-88de-48e9-b49e-7aa5dbe8fb11" CreationDate="2015-11-13T03:02:55.193" Comment="Proposed by 907 approved by 57, 241 edit id of 278" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1196" RevisionGUID="d45ae223-d4dd-4a37-844d-41905161f175" CreationDate="2015-11-13T03:15:44.363" UserId="1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1198" RevisionGUID="96d635a4-5646-453d-aa40-05f90cdad0f6" CreationDate="2015-11-13T06:25:09.853" UserId="907" Text="The only professional tool I know of that somewhat fits this need is the [Fluke Networks LinkSprinter][1]. The general operation is that they provide the results to the cloud service (and/or email), but you can can connect to them wirelessly and view the results in a web browser. The 200 and 300 models also have an Android application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I will say that these are not certification testers, so if you need to certify cable results these won't suffice. They provide testing that is essentially a client test, connectivity and ability to get DHCP and ping devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However they do go a bit further as they can test PoE, provide information based on CDP/LLDP/EDP, and (in the case of the 300 model) detect link fault (open or short).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also only do copper, so no capability to test fiber.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While probably not a perfect replacement for their current testers, if the majority of the work the techs do is validation of connectivity over copper these might work with the need to use a larger/more expensive tester necessary only on rare occasions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are also sold in 5 and 10 packs to help lower costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:http://www.flukenetworks.com/enterprise-network/network-testing/linksprinter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="f31b2341-c87f-4009-89a5-cf53a085617f" CreationDate="2015-11-13T08:59:45.787" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="I wanted to buy a laptop for programming. &#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like Visual Studio 2015, SQL Server, Netbeans, Android Studio, Photoshop, git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched and found `HP ProBook 450 G2`according to my budget but I am confused about generations. Let suppose I have these two choices..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i5 5th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i7 4th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Question:** Which one do you think is better and why? Is i7 4th generation better than i5 5th generation? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1199" RevisionGUID="7c433280-9890-4d9a-87a6-b7d92910a941" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:20:12.007" UserId="935" Text="Ok, so I want to by a new computer, a mobile workstation. I want some advice on what to choose between these two:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Precision M6800**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® Core™ i7-4710MQ (Quad Core 2.50GHz, 3.50GHz Turbo, 6MB 47W, w/HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia® Quadro® K3100M w/4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; - 17.3&quot; UltraSharp™ FHD(1920x1080) Wide View Anti-Glare LED-backlit with Premium Panel Guarantee&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB (4x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3L&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB 2.5inch Serial ATA Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - **$2339**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Precision 7510**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Xeon E3-1535M v5 (Quad Core 2.90GHz, 3.80GHz Turbo, 8MB 45W, w/Intel HD Graphics P530)&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia Quadro M2000M w/4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; UltraSharp™ FHD IPS (1920x1080) Wide View Anti-Glare LED-backlit&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB, DDR4-2133MHz SDRAM, 2 DIMMS, ECC&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB 2.5 inch SATA Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA; - **$2311**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am buying this laptop for both programming (heavy builds) and intensive graphics operations (video editing in After Effects/Premiere, photography and 3D Graphics). So, what do you think? I tend to choose the second one, but I am not sure about the graphics card..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1199" RevisionGUID="7c433280-9890-4d9a-87a6-b7d92910a941" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:20:12.007" UserId="935" Text="Dell Precision 15 7000 vs Dell Precision M6800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1199" RevisionGUID="7c433280-9890-4d9a-87a6-b7d92910a941" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:20:12.007" UserId="935" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="dd883cc3-452a-4cbe-9df9-6c3ac7002fb7" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:43:08.360" UserId="936" Text="I am in the search for some recommendation on a good hardware component for building a mesh network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not experienced in building a mesh network. So all recommendations and guidance would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My case is:&#xD;&#xA;I have 10 small robots that I'd like to connect, so they can share data like position and so on. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I'd like to log the data from the robots to a laptop. The ideal would be through some sort of USB unit, that can connect to the mesh network and log the data from the robots. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to send commands over the network, but only statistical data like position etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The range of the network would be in an open room, with a maximum of 100m2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like an easy setup component, which have to be small, low-energy consumption and not expensive.&#xD;&#xA;I know these requirements might be general for all, but I stated them anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="dd883cc3-452a-4cbe-9df9-6c3ac7002fb7" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:43:08.360" UserId="936" Text="Hardware components for MESH network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="dd883cc3-452a-4cbe-9df9-6c3ac7002fb7" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:43:08.360" UserId="936" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="3ec59b00-14ee-48eb-9b56-96912b1d0a3b" CreationDate="2015-11-13T10:33:11.790" UserId="927" Comment="added 1199 characters in body" Text="I wanted to buy a laptop for programming. &#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like Visual Studio 2015, SQL Server, Netbeans, Android Studio, Photoshop, git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched and found `HP ProBook 450 G2`according to my budget but I am confused about generations. Let suppose I have these two choices..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i7 4th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Question:** Which one do you think is better and why? Is i7 4th generation better than i5 5th generation? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** HERE is the link [http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=6943826#!tab=specs][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Processor:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i7-5500U with Intel HD Graphics 5500 (2.4 GHz, up to 3 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 4 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i7-4510U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (2 GHz, up to 3.1 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 4 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i5-5200U with Intel HD Graphics 5500 (2.2 GHz, up to 2.7 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i5-4210U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.7 GHz, up to 2.7 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i3-4030U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.9 GHz, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i3-4005U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.7 GHz, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Celeron® 3205U with Intel HD Graphics (1.5 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Celeron® 2957U with Intel HD Graphics (1.4 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Pentium® 3805U with Intel HD Graphics (1.9 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Pentium® 3558U with Intel HD Graphics (1.7 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=6943826#!tab=specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1201" RevisionGUID="96f7c990-81e7-432e-a160-6c4856cef0a4" CreationDate="2015-11-13T11:48:13.770" UserId="937" Text="i need for my Asus Notebook X53SV-SX178V a new Mainboard, because the DC jack is broken and the mainboard is partly cracked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i want to order a new Mainboard which is called K53SV. There exist different revisions: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2.1&#xD;&#xA; - 2.3&#xD;&#xA; - 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - 3.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is the difference between thos revisions and which should i buy? The current Mainboard revision in the notebook ist `2.1`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help ans sorry for the bad englisch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1201" RevisionGUID="96f7c990-81e7-432e-a160-6c4856cef0a4" CreationDate="2015-11-13T11:48:13.770" UserId="937" Text="Asus Notebook X53SV -SX178V new Mainboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1201" RevisionGUID="96f7c990-81e7-432e-a160-6c4856cef0a4" CreationDate="2015-11-13T11:48:13.770" UserId="937" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1201" RevisionGUID="7f9e011b-89d6-43d7-b191-4fe01ed94f83" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:03:09.850" UserId="476" Comment="Just some grammar fixing. No worries :)" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I need a new mainbord for my Asus Notebook X53SV-SX178V, because the DC jack is broken and the mainboard is partly cracked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to order a new mainboard which is called K53SV. There exist different revisions: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2.1&#xD;&#xA; - 2.3&#xD;&#xA; - 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - 3.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is the difference between those revisions and which should i buy? The current mainboard revision in the notebook is `2.1`." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1201" RevisionGUID="7f9e011b-89d6-43d7-b191-4fe01ed94f83" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:03:09.850" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 937 edit id of 279" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="008a8c53-507c-4a25-ae62-2649224dbc8e" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:09:13.617" UserId="936" Comment="Added the notion that the robots are Arduino based." Text="I am in the search for some recommendation on a good hardware component for building a mesh network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not experienced in building a mesh network. So all recommendations and guidance would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My case is:&#xD;&#xA;I have 10 small robots that I'd like to connect, so they can share data like position and so on. &#xD;&#xA;UPDATE!&#xD;&#xA;The robots are build with Arduino Nano, so it would be preferable with a solution that compatible with the Arduino environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I'd like to log the data from the robots to a laptop. The ideal would be through some sort of USB unit, that can connect to the mesh network and log the data from the robots. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to send commands over the network, but only statistical data like position etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The range of the network would be in an open room, with a maximum of 100m2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like an easy setup component, which have to be small, low-energy consumption and not expensive.&#xD;&#xA;I know these requirements might be general for all, but I stated them anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="4bd704ac-3b75-4a78-b660-7ed98761d5bd" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:41:34.460" UserId="936" Comment="Added Arduino as a part of the scope" Text="I am in the search for some recommendation on a good hardware component for building a mesh network with Arduino&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not experienced in building a mesh network. So all recommendations and guidance would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My case is:&#xD;&#xA;I have 10 small robots that I'd like to connect, so they can share data like position and so on. &#xD;&#xA;UPDATE!&#xD;&#xA;The robots are build with Arduino Nano, so it would be preferable with a solution that compatible with the Arduino environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I'd like to log the data from the robots to a laptop. The ideal would be through some sort of USB unit, that can connect to the mesh network and log the data from the robots. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to send commands over the network, but only statistical data like position etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The range of the network would be in an open room, with a maximum of 100m2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like an easy setup component, which have to be small, low-energy consumption and not expensive.&#xD;&#xA;I know these requirements might be general for all, but I stated them anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="4bd704ac-3b75-4a78-b660-7ed98761d5bd" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:41:34.460" UserId="936" Comment="Added Arduino as a part of the scope" Text="Hardware components for MESH network with Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="4bd704ac-3b75-4a78-b660-7ed98761d5bd" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:41:34.460" UserId="936" Comment="Added Arduino as a part of the scope" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1203" RevisionGUID="1bd2c221-706f-4de9-8d96-4e6c14314429" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:49:38.570" UserId="737" Text="They will both work perfectly for you since you're focused on developping.&#xD;&#xA; the i7 4th gen is a bit of an overkill for your needs. It'd be suitable if you intend to do photo/video editing and other cpu heavy stuff.&#xD;&#xA;the i5 of 4th gen and onwards will be more than enough for you needs.&#xD;&#xA;the only thing to look out for is &quot;chrome with a lots of tabs open&quot;, you're gonna need a lot of memory for that. 8gb recommended if you're the type to get more than 20tabs at the same time while using visual studios" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1193" RevisionGUID="1a9fbb54-b5b1-4c23-9237-1e093af077a4" CreationDate="2015-11-13T13:08:37.193" UserId="927" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="I wanted to buy a laptop for programming. &#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I develop web and android applications. So for that I use tools like Visual Studio 2015, SQL Server, Netbeans, Android Studio, Photoshop, git, Chrome with lots of tabs opened. Most of the time I need to keep them open all the time. I am planning to buy a new laptop. I know many people will suggest I must have a SSD, but after some research I have found that I can't afford a laptop with both SSD and the configuration .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched and found `HP ProBook 450 G2`according to my budget but I am confused about generations. Let suppose I have these two choices..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i5 5th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HP ProBook 450 G2 Core i7 4th Generation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive: 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: 2GB dedicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Question:** Which one do you think is better and why? Is i7 4th generation better than i5 5th generation? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** HERE is the link [http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=6943826#!tab=specs][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Processor:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i7-5500U with Intel HD Graphics 5500 (2.4 GHz, up to 3 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 4 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i7-4510U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (2 GHz, up to 3.1 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 4 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i5-5200U with Intel HD Graphics 5500 (2.2 GHz, up to 2.7 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i5-4210U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.7 GHz, up to 2.7 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i3-4030U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.9 GHz, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i3-4005U with Intel HD Graphics 4400 (1.7 GHz, 3 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Celeron® 3205U with Intel HD Graphics (1.5 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Celeron® 2957U with Intel HD Graphics (1.4 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Pentium® 3805U with Intel HD Graphics (1.9 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Pentium® 3558U with Intel HD Graphics (1.7 GHz, 2 MB cache, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=6943826#!tab=specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1200" RevisionGUID="9343a543-e431-4be9-adc3-9b66c920275c" CreationDate="2015-11-13T15:15:51.423" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="I am in the search for some recommendation on a good hardware component for building a mesh network with Arduino&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not experienced in building a mesh network. So all recommendations and guidance would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My case is:&#xD;&#xA;I have 10 small robots that I'd like to connect, so they can share data like position and so on. &#xD;&#xA;UPDATE!&#xD;&#xA;The robots are build with Arduino Nano, so it would be preferable with a solution that compatible with the Arduino environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I'd like to log the data from the robots to a laptop. The ideal would be through some sort of USB unit, that can connect to the mesh network and log the data from the robots. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to send commands over the network, but only statistical data like position etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The range of the network would be in an open room, with a maximum of 100m2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like an easy setup component, which have to be small, low-energy consumption and not expensive.&#xD;&#xA;I know these requirements might be general for all, but I stated them anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1204" RevisionGUID="25de072f-b3cc-48b9-bffc-f659cca0f977" CreationDate="2015-11-13T16:19:43.223" UserId="939" Text="Consider an user that mainly uses his notebook for:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- surf the web  &#xD;&#xA;- open 4~6 browsers tabs (ex: google + youtube + amazon + static pages)  &#xD;&#xA;- run msoffice apps (ex: excel + powerpoint + email)  &#xD;&#xA;- watch videos  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For such users, is there already in the market a tablet with the same performance of standard notebooks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1204" RevisionGUID="25de072f-b3cc-48b9-bffc-f659cca0f977" CreationDate="2015-11-13T16:19:43.223" UserId="939" Text="Tablet vs Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1204" RevisionGUID="25de072f-b3cc-48b9-bffc-f659cca0f977" CreationDate="2015-11-13T16:19:43.223" UserId="939" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1204" RevisionGUID="fab17f7e-61ac-4058-b4ee-35a853c2a1ac" CreationDate="2015-11-13T18:45:48.243" UserId="939" Comment="Clarifying the cost constraint" Text="Consider an user that mainly uses his notebook for:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- surf the web  &#xD;&#xA;- open 4~6 browsers tabs (ex: google + youtube + amazon + static pages)  &#xD;&#xA;- run msoffice apps (ex: excel + powerpoint + email)  &#xD;&#xA;- watch videos  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For such users, is there already in the market a tablet with the same performance of standard notebooks? If yes, which tablet would be the cheapest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1205" RevisionGUID="91e9249d-c824-44b4-9012-81f6ccadd33e" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:40:23.753" UserId="821" Text="I would go with the &#xD;&#xA;`HAVIT® HV-MS672 Ergonomic LED Stress-ease Wired Mouse`&#xD;&#xA;From amazon.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;$10 (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Normal mouse (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Wired (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Great for mousepads (smooth back surface) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Ergonomic (according to HAVIT ) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;6 led lights (warning: &#xD;&#xA;cannot change to specific color )  (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Back/foward button (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm ordering this mouse tomorrow so I may update soonly.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1205" RevisionGUID="ca40c435-27ac-4fbd-ade2-9ac40fa4eac9" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:41:15.137" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="I would go with the HAVIT® HV-MS672 Ergonomic LED Stress-ease Wired Mouse&#xD;&#xA;from Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;$10 (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Normal mouse (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Wired (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Great for mousepads (smooth back surface) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Ergonomic (according to HAVIT ) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;6 led lights (warning: &#xD;&#xA;cannot change to specific color )  (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Back/foward button (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm ordering this mouse tomorrow so I may update soonly.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1205" RevisionGUID="42f02a08-4fa6-4b58-97f7-ea5740e214cc" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:42:42.427" UserId="821" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I would go with the HAVIT® HV-MS672 Ergonomic LED Stress-ease Wired Mouse&#xD;&#xA;from Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;$10 (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Normal mouse (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Wired (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Great for mousepads (smooth back surface) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Ergonomic (according to HAVIT ) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;6 led lights (warning: &#xD;&#xA;cannot change to specific color )  (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Back/foward button (+) &#xD;&#xA;DPI button (ideal for gaming with 4 options) (+) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm ordering this mouse tomorrow so I may update soonly.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1205" RevisionGUID="ffd91690-2836-4597-9596-48424002f78b" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:58:18.027" UserId="821" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I would go with the HAVIT® HV-MS672 Ergonomic LED Stress-ease Wired Mouse&#xD;&#xA;from Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;$10 (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Normal mouse (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Wired (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Great for mousepads (smooth back surface) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Ergonomic (according to HAVIT ) (+)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;6 led lights (warning: &#xD;&#xA;cannot change to specific color )  (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Back/foward button (+) &#xD;&#xA;DPI button (ideal for gaming with 4 options) (+) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm ordering this mouse tomorrow so I may update soon.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1204" RevisionGUID="364a6449-e94e-4a41-9da3-9b0faa046547" CreationDate="2015-11-13T20:55:52.540" UserId="939" Comment="typos" Text="Consider an user that mainly uses his notebook for:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- surf the web  &#xD;&#xA;- open 4~6 browsers tabs (ex: google + youtube + amazon + static pages)  &#xD;&#xA;- run msoffice apps (ex: excel + powerpoint + email)  &#xD;&#xA;- watch videos  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For such users, is there already in the market a tablet with the same performance of standard notebooks?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ps: Budget is not a constraint (say &lt; US$5000). Of course the cheapest would be better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1206" RevisionGUID="4dc19900-fcd2-4777-9b33-5f08acd32aa6" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:32:06.950" UserId="125" Text="**Recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many different mesh networks I have seen being set up with the Arduino. Here I name just a few of the common ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Pinoccio](https://pinocc.io)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the website, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Field Scouts talk to each other using a mesh network (called a Troop), using an extremely low-power radio. This makes them 14 times more efficient than standard WiFi devices. Slap a WiFi backpack on a Scout to make it the Lead Scout, and connect your entire Troop to the web!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This allows the data to be shared onto the Internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Radio of the Field Scout is over 2.4GHz using 802.15.4. I am pretty sure it will work in an open room. However the problem is you might have to redo all of the Arduino setup on the Pinoccio, but it is Arduino-compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [RF24Mesh](http://tmrh20.github.io/RF24Mesh/index.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to be an easy to use library for Arduino, which you use when you attach a nRF24L01 to each of the Arduinos. However, there isn't much documentation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1207" RevisionGUID="8029e7ad-af13-45c0-bdd2-42af96e63325" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:32:55.903" UserId="912" Text="Nowadays, many tablets have the same, or more, performance than laptops.The Microsoft Surface Pro 4 is a very good option for portability and performance. It has a beautiful screen, a powerful processor and a generally well built device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1208" RevisionGUID="3690c21d-15a6-4a77-9748-06aa308f233b" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:35:39.760" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend the Razer Deathadder. It is slightly expensive ($60) but it has a very comfy design, a well built software with 2 fully programmable macro buttons and a strong build quality. This is the mouse I'm using right now as my gaming gear. There is also cool looking green backlight. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1209" RevisionGUID="3bb38743-e506-48df-b541-bf5ca669dbef" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:44:18.423" UserId="912" Text="You will get more performance from the 4th gen i7 over the 5th gen i5. But that performance comes at a price. Assuming you have the same other hardware, the 4th gen i7 will produce more heat and have shorter battery life then 5th gen i5. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5th gen i5 should have enough performance for you. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1210" RevisionGUID="943f9de6-3546-4e1d-80d1-53b158a3ee98" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:49:09.307" UserId="912" Text="Having a Xeon processor allows the use of ECC memory which is sometimes critical for some workloads. You would loose performance for some general purpose but gain a lot more for specialized purposes such as virtualization compared to an i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For programming, I would recommend the i7. But because you are doing Premiere and 3D, I would go for the Xeon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="e9fe6f1c-56bb-4600-a926-d8951894474b" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:21:57.957" UserId="949" Text="I need some help to choose a graphics card. I searched a lot about this but still didn't find a good answer. I want to be able to play AAA games and work with game development, graphics design, programming and video editing. I'm really newbie into computer components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking on GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti. maybe SLI/crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;some people say to stay away from crossfire/SLI ( compatibility and drivers issues with games), others say its only worth for video editing, others say its necessary for game development. I'm really confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm bulding a new PC, 3,000$ is my budget. the only item that wrote on my list to buy is the processor i7-6700k (Which i don't mind to change if need)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything, unless it will benefit a lot without too much risk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did ask on toms hardware for advises on building a new computer, but more than 2 weeks and no answer :( thanks if someone can help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="e9fe6f1c-56bb-4600-a926-d8951894474b" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:21:57.957" UserId="949" Text="graphics card for heavy gaming, game development, graphics design and video editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="e9fe6f1c-56bb-4600-a926-d8951894474b" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:21:57.957" UserId="949" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="f1789d95-184c-4826-b69a-129c2cb8de84" CreationDate="2015-11-14T13:54:03.117" UserId="313" Comment="Removed extra comments" Text="I need some help to choose a graphics card. I searched a lot about this but still didn't find a good answer. I want to be able to play AAA games and work with game development, graphics design, programming and video editing. I'm really newbie into computer components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking on GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti. maybe SLI/crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;some people say to stay away from crossfire/SLI ( compatibility and drivers issues with games), others say its only worth for video editing, others say its necessary for game development. I'm really confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm bulding a new PC, 3,000$ is my budget. the only item that wrote on my list to buy is the processor i7-6700k (Which i don't mind to change if need)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything, unless it will benefit a lot without too much risk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="f1789d95-184c-4826-b69a-129c2cb8de84" CreationDate="2015-11-14T13:54:03.117" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 54, 949 edit id of 281" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1213" RevisionGUID="4bc80c77-b4e1-4d8c-9d4c-186c31bcce6b" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:17:16.883" UserId="476" Text="I would say if you have that much budget, go for it!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX Titan X ($1,000), is probably not what you want, probably a better alternative is 2-way SLI GTX 980 Ti (~$1300).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have issues with SLI (I doubt you will with only 2 way), you can always just use one of them when playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the SLI with Blender and probably those other render engines, is most likely going to work beautifully. I know for a fact that Blender does not even require SLI to use two cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Benchmarks][1] (BF4 4K):&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**SLI GTX 980 Ti - 67fps**&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**One Titan X - 40fps**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**One GTX 980 Ti - 37fps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, if you don't like SLI, you can just turn it off and still get Titan X like performance. As for 3D rendering, you won't have any issues with SLI, trust me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.digitalstorm.com/unlocked/sli-nvidia-gtx-980-ti-4k-gaming-performance-benchmarks-idnum358/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1214" RevisionGUID="3bb2e8ef-dbc8-45e2-b316-0a2991ee6d49" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:38:28.030" UserId="476" Text="This is a rather vague question, but I will do my best to answer it. A budget of $5000 will bring you a long way. My recommendation is a [*Microsoft Surface Book*][1]. Without knowing what the &quot;same performance of standard notebooks&quot; is I can almost guarantee that the this insanely powerful Tablet/Laptop hybrid will fit your needs. You could probably also play some video games on it. It ranges from **$1500 - $3200** and goes from an **i5 with iGPU &amp; 128GB SSD** to an **i7 with dGPU &amp; 1TB SSD**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would definitely run 6 Chrome tabs, Excel, PowerPoint, and email at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.325716000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="e3b277d3-fe34-4d5b-a27b-6b4ba0c81fdf" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:39:30.230" UserId="950" Text="Hi I want to purchase a two in one laptop for college to bring around programming. I took a screenshot of the specs that it has. I googled and researched the specs needed for the IDEs Eclipse and Android Studio but I'm still a bit uneducated on the full extent of what I need. With the specs in the screen shot, would I be able to run the IDEs with moderate programming?!&#xA;&#xA;[Screen Shot][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XVTf3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="e3b277d3-fe34-4d5b-a27b-6b4ba0c81fdf" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:39:30.230" UserId="950" Text="Spec's for Eclipse and Android Studio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="e3b277d3-fe34-4d5b-a27b-6b4ba0c81fdf" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:39:30.230" UserId="950" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="c09b5b2b-5779-4ffa-bdc4-19419402fcc2" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:33:34.573" UserId="951" Text="I'm completing the hardware list for desktop unit, which will be used for programming (60%), data analysis &amp; AI (15%) and gaming (15%), the rest beeing internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 1000$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to go with a setup that could be extended in the future and last for years, and it's my primary objective. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute must-have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E v.3.0 &#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - couple of SATA III interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA; - SLI &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty convinced, that I'll go with GeForce 960 GTX, 8 GB of ram (one stick), 256 GB Adata SSD, and than, when upgrading I'll:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - add more drives (SSD is fast, but having two+ SSD in RAID 0 is faster)&#xD;&#xA; - add more RAM&#xD;&#xA; - if SLI is present, add second 960 GTX&#xD;&#xA; - buy better processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question is: **is the above logic sound (1) and about the main board and processor (2):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go with a more cost effective, and 100% satysfying my current needs AMD FX-8320 (I'ts actually top 50 best value on [CPU-benchmark][1]) sacrificing extensibility, or some cheapest, but still extremly not-cheap, LGA2011-v3 processor, like i7-5820K (or maybe some Xenon?) to have the shiny LGA2011 platform, DDR4 support &amp; and all the goodies of [MSI SLI plus][2]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The disk, memory and graphic card would be same for both AMD and Intel, and cost for all 340$, which leaves about just enough for used i7-xxx and new msi-X99 sli plus, or AMD 8 core (8320/ 8350/ 9590?) + motherboard and 3xx $ in pocket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think, what would you choose? Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="c09b5b2b-5779-4ffa-bdc4-19419402fcc2" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:33:34.573" UserId="951" Text="LGA 2011 vs. AM3+" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="c09b5b2b-5779-4ffa-bdc4-19419402fcc2" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:33:34.573" UserId="951" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="06ee16d6-ceb4-43e7-9b23-23163f090816" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:38:46.497" UserId="951" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm completing the hardware list for desktop unit, which will be used for programming (60%), data analysis &amp; AI (15%) and gaming (15%), the rest beeing internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 1000$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to go with a setup that could be extended in the future and last for years, and it's my primary objective. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute must-have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E v.3.0 &#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - couple of SATA III interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SLI  &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty convinced, that I'll go with GeForce 960 GTX, 8 GB of ram (one stick), 256 GB Adata SSD, and than, when upgrading I'll:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - add more drives (SSD is fast, but having two+ SSD in RAID 0 is faster)&#xD;&#xA; - add more RAM&#xD;&#xA; - if SLI is present, add second 960 GTX&#xD;&#xA; - buy better processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question is: **is the above logic sound (1) and about the main board and processor (2):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go with a more cost effective, and 100% satysfying my current needs AMD FX-8320 (I'ts actually top 50 best value on [CPU-benchmark][1]) sacrificing extensibility, or some cheapest, but still extremly not-cheap, LGA2011-v3 processor, like i7-5820K (or maybe some Xenon?) to have the shiny LGA2011 platform, DDR4 support &amp; and all the goodies of [MSI X99 SLI plus][2]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The disk, memory and graphic card would be same for both AMD and Intel, and cost for all 340$, which leaves about just enough for used i7-xxx and new msi-X99 sli plus, or AMD 8 core (8320/ 8350/ 9590?) + motherboard and 3xx $ in pocket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think, what would you choose? Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="06ee16d6-ceb4-43e7-9b23-23163f090816" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:38:46.497" UserId="951" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="4c1235ee-5d15-42db-b1c1-59c36bf117f8" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:52:18.923" UserId="951" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm completing the hardware list for desktop unit, which will be used for programming (60%), data analysis &amp; AI (15%) and gaming (15%), the rest beeing internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 1200$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to go with a setup that could be extended in the future and last for years, and it's my primary objective. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute must-have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E v.3.0 &#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - couple of SATA III interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SLI  &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty convinced, that I'll go with GeForce 960 GTX, 8 GB of ram (one stick), 256 GB Adata SSD, and than, when upgrading I'll:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - add more drives (SSD is fast, but having two+ SSD in RAID 0 is faster)&#xD;&#xA; - add more RAM&#xD;&#xA; - if SLI is present, add second 960 GTX&#xD;&#xA; - buy better processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question is: **is the above logic sound (1) and about the main board and processor (2):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go with a more cost effective, and 100% satysfying my current needs AMD FX-8320 (I'ts actually top 50 best value on [CPU-benchmark][1]) sacrificing extensibility, or some cheapest, but still extremly not-cheap, LGA2011-v3 processor, like i7-5820K (or maybe some Xenon?) to have the shiny LGA2011 platform, DDR4 support &amp; and all the goodies of [MSI X99 SLI plus][2]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The disk, memory and graphic card would be same for both AMD and Intel, and cost for all 340$, which leaves about just enough for used i7-xxx and new msi-X99 sli plus, or AMD 8 core (8320/ 8350/ 9590?) + motherboard and 3xx $ in pocket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think, what would you choose? Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1218" RevisionGUID="d73351b9-8e93-4dc6-be05-ce0032640f0d" CreationDate="2015-11-14T19:07:39.313" UserId="951" Text="I would suggest Dell XPS 13 family, ex. [XPS 13 Non-Touch][1], or with touch, if needed. It has great screen with ultra thick borders, and for the applications you specify, the screen is important, not the internals - what I mean, that every new laptop nowedays is designed to run flawlessly in common scenarions (which is what you specified). Do not go for internals (i5/i7, 1333/1600Mhz RAM etc. dillemas), go for design you like, touch-non-touch, screen size and quality, and usablity - keybord may come in handy if you use MS office much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1219" RevisionGUID="08dce101-c0b6-492b-a986-72db982d045f" CreationDate="2015-11-14T19:35:14.013" UserId="91" Text="I would actually not recommend either of the platforms that you had in mind, and go with the LGA 1151 Skylake Processors. These require DDR4 RAM and are the newest CPUs that Intel has released. For what you are doing, I would recommend the [i7-6700K][1], that costs $350. Also with 1x8GB of DDR4 RAM would be expandable and enough for now. The Motherboard that I would recommend is the [Z170 PRO GAMING][2], as it would allow for major overclocking when paired with a CPU Cooler, such as the EVO 212. If you do not want to overclock, I would recomend the i5-6500 or the i7-6700 with a H170 Mobo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microcenter.com/product/451883/Core_i7-6700K_40GHz_LGA_1151_Boxed_Processor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132567R&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Intel%20Motherboards-_-N82E16813132567R&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiA1JuyBRCogJLz4J71kj0SJADsd6QR28lfz5F225uM1c6g4WpQAlIV6DHWDHl5a1izL3KW5xoCQczw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="72e6a86a-5c64-4cc4-8e27-56b39e6e6dc5" CreationDate="2015-11-14T19:46:26.087" UserId="951" Comment="added 224 characters in body" Text="I'm completing the hardware list for desktop unit, which will be used for programming (60%), data analysis &amp; AI (15%) and gaming (15%), the rest beeing internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 1200$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to go with a setup that could be extended in the future and last for years, and it's my primary objective. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute must-have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E v.3.0 &#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - couple of SATA III interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SLI  &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty convinced, that I'll go with GeForce 960 GTX, 8 GB of ram (one stick), 256 GB Adata SSD, and than, when upgrading I'll:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - add more drives (SSD is fast, but having two+ SSD in RAID 0 is faster)&#xD;&#xA; - add more RAM&#xD;&#xA; - if SLI is present, add second 960 GTX&#xD;&#xA; - buy better processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question is: **is the above logic sound (1) and about the main board and processor (2):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go with a more cost effective, and 100% satysfying my current needs AMD FX-8320 (I'ts actually top 50 best value on [CPU-benchmark][1]) sacrificing extensibility, or some cheapest, but still extremly not-cheap, LGA2011-v3 processor, like i7-5820K (or maybe some Xenon?) to have the shiny LGA2011 platform, DDR4 support &amp; and all the goodies of [MSI X99 SLI plus][2]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The disk, memory and graphic card would be same for both AMD and Intel, and cost for all 340$, which leaves about just enough for used i7-xxx and new msi-X99 sli plus, or AMD 8 core (8320/ 8350/ 9590?) + motherboard and 3xx $ in pocket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think, what would you choose? Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: this question is about chipset, so it may be treated as a question about motherboard. The difference between ex. AMD 9590 and i7-5820K are not of interest, as long as they do not impact ex. DDR memory, SLI etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="c0b00fe5-27b8-4258-b5d8-40795d9192a3" CreationDate="2015-11-14T20:09:52.747" UserId="146" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="I noticed that my mouse sometimes interrupts clicking and holding of the left mouse button, and sometimes sends a double click even if I didn't. Now it's probably the right time to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requierments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - not expensive (max price about 40 to 50€; the less the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be suitable for some occasional gaming (meaning it should be a classical mouse and not a track pad or similar)&#xD;&#xA; - Non-Wireless, because there is no need for position changing (only if it's a really amazing mouse)&#xD;&#xA; - A mouse that is able to operate on a plastic mouse pad (preferable) or a wooden table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some macro buttons would be cool&#xD;&#xA; - Buyable in the EU (living in the EU it's easier in terms of taxes etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I use my mouse with the right hand&#xD;&#xA; - As long as it is not a mouse with a ball for the positioning (like in old mouses) I don't care about optical, laser etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even when this thread is already 2 months old I still did not buy any mouse, and still need one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="47df01ab-f062-4b1e-8bf3-88ddb052b0bb" CreationDate="2015-11-14T21:34:40.033" UserId="476" Comment="Clarified question, fixed GTX 960 Typo" Text="I'm completing the hardware list for desktop unit, which will be used for programming (60%), data analysis &amp; AI (15%) and gaming (15%), the rest beeing internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 1200$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to go with a setup that could be extended in the future and last for years, and it's my primary objective. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute must-have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E v.3.0 &#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - couple of SATA III interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SLI  &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty convinced, that I'll go with GeForce GTX 960, 1x8GB RAM, 256GB Adata SSD, and then, when upgrading I will:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - add more drives (SSDs are fast, but having 2+ SSDs in RAID 0 is faster)&#xD;&#xA; - add more RAM&#xD;&#xA; - if SLI is present, add second 960 GTX&#xD;&#xA; - buy better processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question is: **is the above logic sound (1) and about the main board and processor (2):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go with a more cost effective, and 100% satysfying my current needs AMD FX-8320 (I'ts actually top 50 best value on [CPU-benchmark][1]) sacrificing extensibility, or some cheapest, but still extremly not-cheap, LGA2011-v3 processor, like i7-5820K (or maybe some Xenon?) to have the shiny LGA2011 platform, DDR4 support &amp; and all the goodies of [MSI X99 SLI plus][2]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The disk, memory and graphic card would be same for both AMD and Intel, and cost for all 340$, which leaves about just enough for used i7-xxx and new msi-X99 sli plus, or AMD 8 core (8320/ 8350/ 9590?) + motherboard and 3xx $ in pocket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think, what would you choose? Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: this question is about chipset, so it may be treated as a question about motherboard. The difference between ex. AMD 9590 and i7-5820K are not of interest, as long as they do not impact ex. DDR memory, SLI etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1217" RevisionGUID="47df01ab-f062-4b1e-8bf3-88ddb052b0bb" CreationDate="2015-11-14T21:34:40.033" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 57, 54 edit id of 282" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="5a97f8d0-d27b-44e6-b4b9-c9f8b3bb26cb" CreationDate="2015-11-15T00:12:09.793" UserId="951" Text="I'm interested in desktop setup that will last. I've narrowed (thanks to [this answer][1]) my motherboard choices to MSI z170 gaming pro and MSI X99 SLI plus. As both cards are quite similar (multiple SATA III, USB 3.0, more than 32GB of RAM), the choice boils down to the chipset: [LGA2011-v3][2] (in MSI X99 SLI plus) or [LGA1151][3] (in MSI z170 gaming pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA2011-v3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - released in 2014&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - Finally, the 8 cores treshold overcomed, and processors can have ex. [32 threads][4]. &#xD;&#xA; - 40 PCIe lanes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA1151:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - newer (released in 2015)&#xD;&#xA; - 14 nm litography&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my understanding, in the 1151 there is still the limit to the number of cores a single processor can have, which is [not present in LGA2011][5]. &#xD;&#xA;I'm confused which one will be more supported (ex. better processors will be developped) in the future and what to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1219/951&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81060/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2698-v3-40M-Cache-2_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://vr-zone.com/articles/socket-2011-futures-a-difficult-road-to-perfection/13147.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="5a97f8d0-d27b-44e6-b4b9-c9f8b3bb26cb" CreationDate="2015-11-15T00:12:09.793" UserId="951" Text="Motherboard for future extensibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="5a97f8d0-d27b-44e6-b4b9-c9f8b3bb26cb" CreationDate="2015-11-15T00:12:09.793" UserId="951" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="186f7f55-b7d8-4c06-8de8-ecaf4aff10fc" CreationDate="2015-11-15T00:26:17.380" UserId="951" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="I'm interested in desktop setup that will last. I've narrowed (thanks to [this answer][1]) my motherboard choices to MSI z170 gaming pro and MSI X99 SLI plus. As both cards are quite similar (multiple SATA III, USB 3.0, more than 32GB of RAM), the choice boils down to the chipset: [LGA2011-v3][2] (in MSI X99 SLI plus) or [LGA1151][3] (in MSI z170 gaming pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA2011-v3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - released in 2014&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - Finally, the 8 cores treshold overcomed, and processors can have ex. [32 threads][4]. &#xD;&#xA; - 40 PCIe lanes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA1151:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - newer (released in 2015)&#xD;&#xA; - 14 nm litography&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper&#xD;&#xA; - twice the link speed ([ref][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my understanding, in the 1151 there is still the limit to the number of cores a single processor can have, which is [not present in LGA2011][6]. &#xD;&#xA;I'm confused which one will be more supported (ex. better processors will be developped) in the future and what to choose. How important is link speed &amp; what is this measure? Which one would you choose &amp; why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1219/951&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81060/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2698-v3-40M-Cache-2_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://vr-zone.com/articles/socket-2011-futures-a-difficult-road-to-perfection/13147.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="de010c41-16c3-4de2-9ae9-da80f7a8eb3b" CreationDate="2015-11-15T01:51:48.313" UserId="954" Text="Just curious, any suggestions for tablets that run Linux well? There doesn't seem to be much information out there about this, but from my research a few that work well are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Slate 7&#xD;&#xA; - Acer Iconia W4&#xD;&#xA; - Cube i7 Stylus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any others or any resources to help me find a good Linux tablet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="de010c41-16c3-4de2-9ae9-da80f7a8eb3b" CreationDate="2015-11-15T01:51:48.313" UserId="954" Text="Good tablet for Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="de010c41-16c3-4de2-9ae9-da80f7a8eb3b" CreationDate="2015-11-15T01:51:48.313" UserId="954" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1222" RevisionGUID="a36586c9-ab00-4da7-94db-2a7bdbe6368c" CreationDate="2015-11-15T02:25:28.933" UserId="912" Text="The LGA 2011 platform and the LGA 1151 platform is designed for two different markets. The LGA 1151 is a mainstream consumer socket, designed for CPU's ranging from $100 - $350. The LGA 2011 socket is for the extreme enthusiast and prosumer purposes. CPU's for the LGA 2011 socket is around $400 - $1200 (please note that the $400 5820K only has 28 PCI-E lanes).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one to choose depends on what your purpose is. If you're going to do normal day to day tasks, the LGA 1151 platform is enough. If you are doing to do prosumer things like video editing and 3D modeling, a LGA 2011 socket would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of &quot;future extensibility&quot;, none of them are good at it. Intel tends to release a new socket for each generation so to upgrade you would need to get a new board." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1223" RevisionGUID="48618164-61bc-4109-8a63-c0b80d2cfd54" CreationDate="2015-11-15T02:27:44.877" UserId="912" Text="This would work fine for Eclipse and Android Studio. The only minor issue would be if you tried to run the Android emulator in Android Studio it might be slow since the computer only have 4GB of RAM. I would recommend at lease 6GB of RAM for better performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="bf8369a3-4c29-4406-b0e1-2c926f90edbe" CreationDate="2015-11-15T05:39:27.430" UserId="527" Text="One of the most popular trackballs is the Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big feature missing from their product is a tilting scrollwheel so the user can scroll horizontally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a thumb-driven Windows-compatible wireless trackball with a tilting scrollwheel that anyone can recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3gIX6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="bf8369a3-4c29-4406-b0e1-2c926f90edbe" CreationDate="2015-11-15T05:39:27.430" UserId="527" Text="Thumb-driven wireless trackball with a tilting scrollwheel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4342" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="bf8369a3-4c29-4406-b0e1-2c926f90edbe" CreationDate="2015-11-15T05:39:27.430" UserId="527" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="dc419028-c843-4d7c-b059-4e686d8ff078" CreationDate="2015-11-15T11:33:13.240" UserId="32" Text="Are there any cell phones that has only programmed speed dial numbers, no texting keypad and works in the UK?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article](http://roogirl.com/35-cell-phones-for-kids/) suggests some of them but I don't believe any of them would work in the UK&#xD;&#xA;Unsurprisingly none of is being sold in the UK either " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="dc419028-c843-4d7c-b059-4e686d8ff078" CreationDate="2015-11-15T11:33:13.240" UserId="32" Text="Cell phone for an 8-year old, pre-programmed numbers only and works in the UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="dc419028-c843-4d7c-b059-4e686d8ff078" CreationDate="2015-11-15T11:33:13.240" UserId="32" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="376429f6-8e7b-4696-95cf-eede2a71dd54" CreationDate="2015-11-15T15:48:57.533" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4348" PostHistoryTypeId="20" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="f93c3ef0-0afb-43bd-b68a-35038c6e4124" CreationDate="2015-11-15T15:49:16.367" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4349" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="cfcd9a82-eee1-4f87-aaf3-69f30d7db234" CreationDate="2015-11-15T15:55:23.417" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4350" PostHistoryTypeId="20" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="a6f7d562-cbe2-47a8-bdb1-0802dc928626" CreationDate="2015-11-15T15:56:02.483" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4351" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="832f55e4-5fa8-4c4e-9528-c0856f6f4ea0" CreationDate="2015-11-15T15:56:43.577" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4352" PostHistoryTypeId="20" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="833f4050-e86e-49e8-8432-e805b01ab432" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:01:33.753" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4353" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="890dd9a2-8504-48de-b6fc-64938eeea51c" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:14:40.933" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4354" PostHistoryTypeId="20" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="2a5e4c6d-0e45-4d7c-a62d-afd726214bf9" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:14:43.917" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4355" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1226" RevisionGUID="a5243908-c99c-4a5b-9703-3d2f65a9404f" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:38:16.333" UserId="32" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="Are there any cell phones that has only programmed speed dial numbers, no texting keypad and works in the UK?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article](http://roogirl.com/35-cell-phones-for-kids/) suggests some of them but I don't believe any of them would work in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unsurprisingly none of is being sold in the UK either &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Sadly [this article](http://www.gomonews.com/uk-mnos-missing-out-on-emergency-phones-for-kids/) supports my question" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1227" RevisionGUID="8b3b061b-c426-44a8-8000-b048efdde2c5" CreationDate="2015-11-15T18:07:13.650" UserId="32" Text="The only available option that I could find was [OwnFone][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![OwnFone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a customized phone that is made specially for the customer based on their order. They company intention is to provide our eldest with an emergency easy to use phone however, it can be used a for children as well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons can be images (or names) in case you child is too young to read&#xD;&#xA; - 999/emergency button is available &#xD;&#xA; - No text, no screen&#xD;&#xA; - Choices of 2, 4, 8 or 12 pre-programmed numbers depending on how much you willing to pay&#xD;&#xA; - Designed and works only in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Biggest downside is that the phone is not SIM-free and it seems you cant even replace the SIM or the battery so you are stuck with the plans offered to you by the company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cell phone can be bought from [this website](https://ageuk.myownfone.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.smh.com.au/digital-life/mobiles/ownfone-phone-without-texting-camera-or-internet-pitches-to-parents-20140410-zqt2n.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Nuz2Z.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="20e7f6f5-6099-4e02-8c81-6d2d140e7bf2" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:50:40.043" UserId="951" Comment="qestiopns specified" Text="I'm interested in desktop setup that will last. I've narrowed (thanks to [this answer][1]) my motherboard choices to MSI z170 gaming pro and MSI X99 SLI plus. As both cards are quite similar (multiple SATA III, USB 3.0, more than 32GB of RAM), the choice boils down to the chipset: [LGA2011-v3][2] (in MSI X99 SLI plus) or [LGA1151][3] (in MSI z170 gaming pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA2011-v3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - released in 2014&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - Finally, the 8 cores treshold overcomed, and processors can have ex. [32 threads][4]. &#xD;&#xA; - 40 PCIe lanes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA1151:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 support&#xD;&#xA; - newer (released in 2015)&#xD;&#xA; - 14 nm litography&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper&#xD;&#xA; - twice the link speed ([ref][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my understanding, in the 1151 there is still the limit to the number of cores a single processor can have, which is [not present in LGA2011][6]. &#xD;&#xA;I'm confused which one will be more supported (ex. better processors will be developped) in the future and what to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT] more specific questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Which one would choose &amp; why?**&#xD;&#xA; 2. **How important is link speed &amp; what is this measure?**  &#xD;&#xA; 3. **Will the LGA1151 overcome the 8 core treshold in next generations like 2011?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1219/951&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81060/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2698-v3-40M-Cache-2_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://vr-zone.com/articles/socket-2011-futures-a-difficult-road-to-perfection/13147.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="f874488f-9e4e-47e0-8be7-f506db399cb3" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:53:23.093" UserId="476" Comment="Added budget." Text="Just curious, any suggestions for tablets that run Linux well? There doesn't seem to be much information out there about this, but from my research a few that work well are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Slate 7&#xD;&#xA; - Acer Iconia W4&#xD;&#xA; - Cube i7 Stylus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any others or any resources to help me find a good Linux tablet? &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;My budget is $200 - $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="f874488f-9e4e-47e0-8be7-f506db399cb3" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:53:23.093" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 284" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1221" RevisionGUID="607ba3a2-daaa-4b16-ba2e-f75a4f9cf0d9" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:53:23.093" UserId="8" Comment="Added budget." Text="Just curious, any suggestions for tablets that run Linux well? There doesn't seem to be much information out there about this, but from my research a few that work well are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Slate 7&#xD;&#xA; - Acer Iconia W4&#xD;&#xA; - Cube i7 Stylus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any others or any resources to help me find a good Linux tablet? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is $200 - $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="6689d834-42bb-413a-887e-2d904d9d61ae" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:23:34.633" UserId="951" Text="So the thing is, I want to play Fallout 4. I currently consider GTX950, GTX960 and GTX970. I did the research on [game-debate][1] but only found what I already knew. The GTX950, GTX960 seem to have great performance and are relatively cheep, hovewer the 970 peeks, probably because of 256 bit interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'd like to keep it under 250$, but can be stretched if it's really really worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What card (not necessairly from ones mentioned) would you recomend, for the rest of setup beeing:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston 8GB 3000MHz HyperX Savage Black CL15&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any suggestions regarding above setup are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Also, I plan learning to [program for CUDA][2], so I gess only GeForce is on the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="6689d834-42bb-413a-887e-2d904d9d61ae" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:23:34.633" UserId="951" Text="Ultra graphics performance for a penny" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="6689d834-42bb-413a-887e-2d904d9d61ae" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:23:34.633" UserId="951" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="622" RevisionGUID="80697760-feac-4462-b0c4-e94887da8ae3" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:34:09.157" UserId="476" Comment="Grammatical fixes" Text="I've got the 256gb variant of the Samsung 850 **Pro** and running a few tests would be quite enlightening. Improving compile time may also depend on processor so... it depends on your options. Likewise with IDE &amp; Git performance. That said, I upgraded from an 840 (which I can't find the benchmarks for, its on my laptop at the moment) and it was a significant improvement. Enough yammering.   &#xD;&#xA;Science!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BIOS time (boot time) is 15 seconds according to Windows. My system is a bit of a mess and I could probably remove things to speed it up more :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a drive I've been using as a boot drive. Optimized for performance in Samsung Disk Magician, though kept fairly empty, since bulk storage is another drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HD Tune benchmarks &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe these numbers exceed your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crystal Disk Mark Benchmarks with what I believe is the default settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Few other nice things about this? ***[10 year warranty][3]***, and its MLC rather than TLC, which means better endurance and speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kFPN9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax1W9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/warranty.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="622" RevisionGUID="80697760-feac-4462-b0c4-e94887da8ae3" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:34:09.157" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 285" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1234" RevisionGUID="5cc428a8-299f-4c30-b921-2b27e9bd06dd" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:52:35.733" UserId="476" Text="I recommend a [GTX 550 Ti](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-550ti/specifications)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum res: 2560x1600&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum [Fallout 4 requirements](http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports CUDA&#xD;&#xA; - MRSP: $150 ($100 to spare!)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostHistoryTypeId="16" PostId="1234" RevisionGUID="2339f18f-1671-4291-ae38-bd00cef86182" CreationDate="2015-11-15T21:52:35.733" UserId="476" />
  <row Id="4383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="31043800-f89a-4554-81d5-5f69de34c8e1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T22:54:09.243" UserId="665" Comment="multiple spelling corrections" Text="So the thing is, I want to play Fallout 4. I currently consider GTX950, GTX960 and GTX970. I did the research on [game-debate][1] but only found what I already knew. The GTX950, GTX960 seem to have great performance and are relatively cheap, however the 970 peaks, probably because of 256 bit interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'd like to keep it under $250, but can be stretched if it's really really worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What card (not necessarily from ones mentioned) would you recommend, for the rest of setup being:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston 8GB 3000MHz HyperX Savage Black CL15&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any suggestions regarding above setup are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Also, I plan learning to [program for CUDA][2], so I guess only GeForce is on the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="31043800-f89a-4554-81d5-5f69de34c8e1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T22:54:09.243" Comment="Proposed by 665 approved by 1 edit id of 286" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1236" RevisionGUID="5af4bcaf-c849-4fc3-bff5-8608965f525b" CreationDate="2015-11-15T23:24:53.580" UserId="966" Text="I personally would recommend getting a EVGA GTX 970 ACX 2.0+. You can find those around 300$ maybe even less. I have owned that card and I was quite happy with the performance and the support. You can also find other 970GTX cards around that price range. Just check some benchmarks/temps/noise levels and see what you like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that the 970GTX &quot;only&quot; has 4GB (3.5GB) of VRAM. Similar models like the Radeon R9 390 already have 8GB of VRAM which considering more and more complex textures in the future, might be a safer choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1236" RevisionGUID="b29554c1-94aa-401e-adb4-4de9da1c72e0" CreationDate="2015-11-16T00:01:45.033" UserId="476" Comment="Added link, put the GTX in front of the 970 like it's supposed to be." Text="I personally would recommend getting a [EVGA GTX 970 ACX 2.0+][1]. You can find those around 300$ maybe even less. I have owned that card and I was quite happy with the performance and the support. You can also find other GTX 970 cards around that price range. Just check some benchmarks/temps/noise levels and see what you like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that the GTX 970 &quot;only&quot; has 4GB (3.5GB) of VRAM. Similar models like the Radeon R9 390 already have 8GB of VRAM which considering more and more complex textures in the future, might be a safer choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=04g-p4-2974-kr" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1236" RevisionGUID="b29554c1-94aa-401e-adb4-4de9da1c72e0" CreationDate="2015-11-16T00:01:45.033" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 8 edit id of 287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1233" RevisionGUID="2f056fa2-1333-42d2-804a-8a4916d76055" CreationDate="2015-11-16T05:56:31.720" UserId="531" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="So the thing is, I want to play Fallout 4. I currently consider GTX950, GTX960 and GTX970. I did the research on [game-debate][1] but only found what I already knew. The GTX950, GTX960 seem to have great performance and are relatively cheap, however the 970 peaks, probably because of 256 bit interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I'd like to keep it under $250, but can be stretched if it's really really worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What card (not necessarily from ones mentioned) would you recommend, for the rest of setup being:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston 8GB 3000MHz HyperX Savage Black CL15&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any suggestions regarding above setup are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Also, I plan learning to [program for CUDA][2], so I guess only GeForce is on the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=5013&amp;game=Fallout%204&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="622" RevisionGUID="ff5fd364-67c7-4097-a6c3-795e95bf23d5" CreationDate="2015-11-16T06:00:10.187" UserId="531" Comment="I don't do american spelling." Text="I've got the 256gb variant of the Samsung 850 **Pro** and running a few tests would be quite enlightening. Improving compile time may also depend on processor so... it depends on your options. Likewise with IDE &amp; Git performance. That said, I upgraded from an 840 (which I can't find the benchmarks for, its on my laptop at the moment) and it was a significant improvement. Enough yammering.   &#xD;&#xA;Science!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BIOS time (boot time) is 15 seconds according to Windows. My system is a bit of a mess and I could probably remove things to speed it up more :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a drive I've been using as a boot drive. Optimised for performance in Samsung Disk Magician, though kept fairly empty, since bulk storage is another drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HD Tune benchmarks &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe these numbers exceed your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crystal Disk Mark Benchmarks with what I believe is the default settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Few other nice things about this? ***[10 year warranty][3]***, and its MLC rather than TLC, which means better endurance and speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kFPN9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax1W9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/warranty.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1238" RevisionGUID="a0d8fd47-be9b-44db-9dfb-bafc0a48c043" CreationDate="2015-11-16T06:54:45.927" UserId="737" Text="After reading your question, I'd highly recommend a better screen atleast a 1080p screen (about a $100 or less if you find a deal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the graphic card the **GTX 970 is dominating** at that resolution with the curent drivers. the competition will get tougher once amd updates theirs for this game. You could ***potentially*** get similar performances on the **r9 290** which is cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wait for the amd drivers for fallout 4 to come out and see if the r9 290 comes close to 60fps at 1080p resolution (ultra settings ofcourse), if it does then go for it, if it doesn't then go with the gtx 970 (any would do so pick the cheapest acording to your reseller) and a better screen ***ASAP***." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1239" RevisionGUID="0d3ca780-8898-4dd7-9404-d251ef2a4dd7" CreationDate="2015-11-16T07:07:01.243" UserId="531" Text="That resolution is pretty easy to drive. I'd actually consider a newer monitor, even if my experience, eizos are pretty nice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the current resolution, and in fact up to QHD, a 960 would likely be a good bet - my old 660 with 2gb of ram handled 1080p out fine at ultra settings for most games I threw it at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 970 would likely be overkill, and of course, a 980 or 980TI would be more so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get a better video card *if* you intend to upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1238" RevisionGUID="3e026ef7-1b12-40e2-b0d3-d39f6da82b40" CreationDate="2015-11-16T07:16:24.087" UserId="737" Comment="added the eventuality if you wanted to stay on the monitor" Text="After reading your question, I'd highly recommend a better screen atleast a 1080p screen (about a $100 or less if you find a deal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the graphic card the **GTX 970 is dominating** at that resolution with the curent drivers. the competition will get tougher once amd updates theirs for this game. You could ***potentially*** get similar performances on the **r9 290** which is cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wait for the amd drivers for fallout 4 to come out and see if the r9 290 comes close to 60fps at 1080p resolution (ultra settings ofcourse), if it does then go for it, if it doesn't then go with the gtx 970 (any would do so pick the cheapest acording to your reseller) and a better screen ***ASAP***.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand if you plan on keeping the monitor than a 950ti would be more than enough for that resolution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1240" RevisionGUID="90ba51e5-5e17-4f31-af19-b0eaf137ba0f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T09:41:40.047" UserId="971" Text="I am not sure how a $800 graphics card would go in a $1500 computer. One can technically buy it, but without a good motherboard, powersupply, CPU, RAM, HDD, and most importantly a case, it's just going to be a super expensive paperweight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $1500, assuming you spend two-thirds of the budget for the rest of the build, a GTX 980 would be a good bet. You can find one from EVGA for $510:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487079&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the build could include a i5 4690K/6600K, a Z97/Z170 based motherboard, a 650W power supply, 16GB RAM and a 250GB/1TB SSD/HDD combo. Plus a CPU cooler, a good case and a couple of case fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking for a lot of tasks beyond simple gaming, a i7 4790k/6700k would also be a good idea." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1241" RevisionGUID="af121745-b103-4eab-8e82-4e34ed90f677" CreationDate="2015-11-16T10:54:11.557" UserId="974" Text="I'd like a fast start up and decent display. Maybe light gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 8/16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; HD Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget under £400." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1241" RevisionGUID="af121745-b103-4eab-8e82-4e34ed90f677" CreationDate="2015-11-16T10:54:11.557" UserId="974" Text="Laptop for media and light gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1241" RevisionGUID="af121745-b103-4eab-8e82-4e34ed90f677" CreationDate="2015-11-16T10:54:11.557" UserId="974" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1242" RevisionGUID="5c415a45-3f92-45f4-aaf8-465faa83dc6f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T12:50:03.433" UserId="975" Text="The new Surface Pro 4 seems a pretty solid machine and I'm looking to get one as my new mobile workstation since I travel a lot for work (compared to the back-breaking Dell workstation I currently have to drag everywhere). But I also want it to be *reasonably* good at running modern games, though they don't have to be at their highest settings or pulling 90FPS. Thankfully there are several options, but I'd like advice on which (if any) will make the most difference versus their cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the configurations I'm considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 / 4GB / 128GB ($999)&#xD;&#xA; - i5 / 8GB / 256GB ($1299)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 / 8GB / 256GB ($1599)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also the i7 with 16GB but it's a bit more expensive than I'd like to pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to get the most bang for my buck out of it in terms of performance. Primarily it will be a work computer but if I occasionally want to fire up a newer game, what's the lowest model on the list that will comfortably handle it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I listed the SSD sizes simply for comparison of the benefits. Their size is not critical to the question, but could make the difference if I'm on the fence between the two i5s." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1242" RevisionGUID="5c415a45-3f92-45f4-aaf8-465faa83dc6f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T12:50:03.433" UserId="975" Text="Surface Pro 4 configurations for light-moderate gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1242" RevisionGUID="5c415a45-3f92-45f4-aaf8-465faa83dc6f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T12:50:03.433" UserId="975" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1243" RevisionGUID="1ca105fa-d407-45d5-a2e4-c48c27e58745" CreationDate="2015-11-16T12:51:48.477" UserId="951" Text="Maybe [Lenovo G50-80][1] with ex. i7-5500U/16GB/240 SSD, or Dell Inspiron 5548 i5-5200U/8GB/128SDD+500HDD if you do not like wasting money on DVD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/lenovo/g-series/g50-80/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1243" RevisionGUID="1b779341-ca1e-4266-ae0f-506b45c56aea" CreationDate="2015-11-16T13:03:24.727" UserId="951" Comment="added 138 characters in body" Text="Maybe:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Lenovo G50-80][1] with ex. i7-5500U/16GB/240 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Inspiron 5548 i5-5200U/8GB/128SDD+500HDD if you do not like wasting money on DVD (well over the budget, good graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS R556LJ-XO603D-8 i3-5005U/8GB/128SSD+1TB GF920 (well under the budget, good graphics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/lenovo/g-series/g50-80/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1244" RevisionGUID="3285d7f7-0152-4667-8d58-499d572ce1b2" CreationDate="2015-11-16T13:06:35.453" UserId="976" Text="I am looking to buy a new GPU for a half gaming half graphics design system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-4790 CPU&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 750 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 500 Watt PSU&#xD;&#xA; - 2x 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Design Software in Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustrator&#xD;&#xA; - Sony Vegas Home Edition&#xD;&#xA; - AutoDesk Inventor 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a slightly more powerful GPU (one for both Rendering and Gaming at 1080p60), however I would like something relatively cheap (it would be even better if I do not have to upgrade the PSU). I was looking at the GTX 950 and GTX960, however I am not sure which one is superior for the price to performance ratio. I would like to stay away from AMD GPUs as they would require me to purchase a new PSU. The main question is, am I overlooking a better video card for my needs? Or would one suggest the GTX950 or the GTX960?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1244" RevisionGUID="3285d7f7-0152-4667-8d58-499d572ce1b2" CreationDate="2015-11-16T13:06:35.453" UserId="976" Text="Best GPU for Price to Performance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1244" RevisionGUID="3285d7f7-0152-4667-8d58-499d572ce1b2" CreationDate="2015-11-16T13:06:35.453" UserId="976" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1247" RevisionGUID="a92d559b-2bc9-4bb1-ba02-2fe83362badc" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:19:56.557" UserId="630" Text="Ultra graphics performance for a penny&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;As this is your requirement I don't think that the graphics card which are recommended until now will statisfy your future self. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  I'd like to **future proof**, also I'd like to buy in the future new monitor, thouh I'm not sure when.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A new monitor sure is a good idea in the near future. My following config aims to provide as much power as possible in my eyes for a reasonable price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel Core i5-6500**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A new Skylake processor to make your build future proof - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **MSI Z170-A Pro**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Corsair Vengeance LPX DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3000**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Super fast RAM - 16GB because why not? We want to be future proof right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Sapphire Radeon R9 390 Nitro + Backplate**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Great graphics card in my opinion - really good performance - performance lies between the GTX970 and the GTX980 for around 350 bucks. I know that you wanted to buy a GTX 970 because you wanted to program for CUDA but when you really want the best performance for the best price your choice should be the R9 390. Alternatively you can use the GTX 970 if CUDA is absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **be quiet! Shadow Wings SW1 Mid-Speed 140mm**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case fan for a good airflow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **EKL Alpenföhn Ben Nevis**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Solid CPU FAN - should keep your cpu cool enough from day to day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Phanteks Enthoo Pro M**&#xD;&#xA; - **be quiet! Straight Power 10-CM 500W**&#xD;&#xA; - **Seagate Desktop HDD 1TB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That makes **1022-€** where I am from so it should be **~1100$**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;An i5 4460 would still be enough in most cases but if you want to be futureproof then a Skylake build won't hurt. Positive thing is that you can still enjoy your games in 1920x1080 resolution as modern cards support VSR/DSR. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This technology allows a user to improve visual quality in games and other content by rendering at a very high resolution (up to 4K) and then displaying that content at a lower resolution supported by the available monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[What Is Virtual Super Resolution and How Does It Work?](http://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-articles/Pages/VSR.aspx)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1248" RevisionGUID="f6339626-3533-4a65-88ec-36d49551c542" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:31:09.513" UserId="966" Text="I guess it depends on your definition of _comfortably handle_. In my opinion none of these models will _comfortably handle_ a modern game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, there are users that are currently running games like Fallout 4 on the i5 8GB version ([LINK][1]) at 1280x720 and it seems to be doing fine.(Other users say the game constantly crashes or won't even start.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just be prepared that you will only be able to run the game at the lowest possible settings. If you don't mind all of that as well as the occasional frame rate drop in graphic intensive areas go for the i5 8GB 256GB SSD version. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally wouldn't get that laptop if I was planing on playing newer games. It just wasn't made for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYSU5kQW3Gg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="9e7cddca-da3a-4947-ac1d-096004de3bdf" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:31:28.327" UserId="979" Text="I want to use my nexus 5x to make presentations, but apparently, there is no video support. I tried an asus miracast dongle, but that is spotty at best. So it appears that my only good option is to use a chromecast device, but my university uses the 802.11x protocol, which chromecast apparently does not support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a way to use a travel router to do what I want? I see two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) The router does not connect to the internet and simply allows my phone and the chromecast to communicate. I don't know if chromecast needs internet access to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) It connects to the internet using the 802.11x protocol, but then provides a different protocol (11n, etc) for my phone and the chromecast. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will either of these options work? Or some other setup? Specific hardware suggestions are of course welcome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="9e7cddca-da3a-4947-ac1d-096004de3bdf" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:31:28.327" UserId="979" Text="How to access 802.11x network with non-802.11x device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="9e7cddca-da3a-4947-ac1d-096004de3bdf" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:31:28.327" UserId="979" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="402a0efc-7089-43d5-ba20-3a28056129e6" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:34:35.313" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="I want to use my nexus 5x to make presentations, but apparently, there is no video support. I tried an asus miracast dongle, but that is spotty at best. So it appears that my only good option is to use a chromecast device, but my university uses the 802.11x protocol, which chromecast apparently does not support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a way to use a travel router to do what I want? I see two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The router does not connect to the internet and simply allows my phone and the chromecast to communicate. I don't know if chromecast needs internet access to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. It connects to the internet using the 802.11x protocol, but then provides a different protocol (11n, etc) for my phone and the chromecast. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will either of these options work? Or some other setup? Specific hardware suggestions are of course welcome. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1248" RevisionGUID="ebc1aef9-9112-49b7-8a1d-20b8cd87801c" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:28:15.273" UserId="966" Comment="added 772 characters in body" Text="I guess it depends on your definition of _comfortably handle_. In my opinion none of these models will _comfortably handle_ a modern game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, there are users that are currently running games like Fallout 4 on the i5 8GB version ([LINK][1]) at 1280x720 and it seems to be doing fine.(Other users say the game constantly crashes or won't even start.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just be prepared that you will only be able to run the game at the lowest possible settings. If you don't mind all of that as well as the occasional frame rate drop in graphic intensive areas go for the i5 8GB 256GB SSD version. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally wouldn't get that laptop if I was planing on playing newer games. It just wasn't made for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Response to a comment:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general it comes down to the fact that laptops have significantly lower power supplies than desktops which in return limits the CPU and GPU a laptop can power. I am afraid that pretty much every gaming laptop has this flaw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even the most expensive Surface Pro 4 is not going to give you smooth gaming performance now and certainly not in 2-3 years. If you occasionally want to play some FIFA 16 or Dota 2 while you are on a business trip I think the Surface Pro 4 will be just fine. If you plan on playing newer games like Call of Duty and Fallout 4, I don't think you will enjoy that. Constantly playing at the lowest resolutions with &lt;50 fps is not going to be fun in the long run. At least it wouldn't be for me. Hope that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYSU5kQW3Gg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="676b6b2f-3de0-4d2f-9cc1-59454d10303f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:27:24.497" UserId="982" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a cable box in my room and wish to connect it to my laptop, Asus N56VB. The cable box has a HDMI output, and the laptop itself has a HDMI port as well, which I know is an output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, can I use some device, like a HDMI capture box, to watch TV in real time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possible devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-AVerCapture-Capture-Stream-GL310/dp/B00I0QZMPE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1447707144&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=LGP+Lite&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cloner-need-Capture-streaming-videos/dp/B00TF9MCXU/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1447707853&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=Elgato&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been told that I can use them, but it seems strange because they pass the video/audio using a HDMI cable, but as far as I know, the HDMI port on my laptop is output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, maybe, do I need this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1447671293&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Magewell+XI100DUSB-HDMI+HDMI+to+USB+3.0+Video+Capture+Dongle&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="676b6b2f-3de0-4d2f-9cc1-59454d10303f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:27:24.497" UserId="982" Text="Connecting a cable box with HDMI output to laptop and view TV in real time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="676b6b2f-3de0-4d2f-9cc1-59454d10303f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:27:24.497" UserId="982" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="18543446-da87-49ea-aa78-75df6156a17f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:40:21.270" UserId="155" Comment="inline links; condensed title" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I have a cable box in my room and wish to connect it to my laptop, Asus N56VB. The cable box has a HDMI output, and the laptop itself has a HDMI port as well, which I know is an output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, can I use some device, like a HDMI capture box, to watch TV in real time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possible devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [AVerMedia AVerCapture HD](http://amzn.com/B00I0QZMPE)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [HDMI-Cloner Box](http://amzn.com/B00TF9MCXU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been told that I can use them, but it seems strange because they pass the video/audio using a HDMI cable, but as far as I know, the HDMI port on my laptop is output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or maybe I need the [Magewell HDMI to USB 3.0 Video Capture Dongle](http://amzn.com/B00I16VQOY).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="18543446-da87-49ea-aa78-75df6156a17f" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:40:21.270" UserId="155" Comment="inline links; condensed title" Text="Connecting cable box to laptop to view TV in real time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="1a9e5175-922d-4223-bb16-fa5a3017eb83" CreationDate="2015-11-17T08:42:15.620" UserId="982" Comment="added 226 characters in body" Text="I have a cable box in my room and wish to connect it to my laptop, Asus N56VB. The cable box has a HDMI output, and the laptop itself has a HDMI port as well, which I know is an output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, can I use some device, like a HDMI capture box, to watch TV in real time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cable box has the following connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Picture number 1][1]&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - [Picture number 2][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possible devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [AVerMedia AVerCapture HD](http://amzn.com/B00I0QZMPE)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [HDMI-Cloner Box](http://amzn.com/B00TF9MCXU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been told that I can use them, but it seems strange because they pass the video/audio using a HDMI cable, but as far as I know, the HDMI port on my laptop is output only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or maybe I need the [Magewell HDMI to USB 3.0 Video Capture Dongle](http://amzn.com/B00I16VQOY).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://s23.postimg.org/4z49e95uz/IMG_20150924_190746.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://s2.postimg.org/ujb5yfjex/IMG_20150924_192021.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="ea1aa62c-4503-4b8e-b2c6-5689b72fecc9" CreationDate="2015-11-17T09:29:17.107" UserId="922" Comment="fixed descriptions" Text="I would suggest to go with Lenovo Thinkpad (previously known as the IBM thinkpad). It's worth with the price as its durable. I have one friend who's developer and he use for a long time even with less configuration what you have described above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought my Macbook pro in 2010 and works fine so far. No issues at all. I am using it to develop websites and couple of personal projects. I use almost the same applications as what you're using except the android thing. Use GIT, Netbeans, Adobe suite, ftp and etc. If I want to buy a new laptop at this stage, I would definitely go with thinkpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My brother and good friend of mine having a DELL Inspiron, and they got fed up with it in within a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with your search and purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="ea1aa62c-4503-4b8e-b2c6-5689b72fecc9" CreationDate="2015-11-17T09:29:17.107" Comment="Proposed by 922 approved by -1 edit id of 288" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1124" RevisionGUID="a50c16f8-2f31-485e-9b68-f2209a45d4e2" CreationDate="2015-11-17T09:29:17.107" UserId="155" Comment="grammar" Text="I would suggest to go with Lenovo Thinkpad (previously known as the IBM Thinkpad). It's worth with the price as its durable. I have one friend who's a developer and he used it for a long time even with less configuration than what you have described above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought my MacBook Pro in 2010 and works fine so far. No issues at all. I am using it to develop websites and a couple of personal projects. I use almost the same applications as what you're using except the Android thing. Use GIT, Netbeans, Adobe suite, FTP, etc. If I want to buy a new laptop at this stage, I would definitely go with the Thinkpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My brother and good friend of mine had a Dell Inspiron, and they got f'ed up within a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with your search and purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1254" RevisionGUID="95fe091e-e511-4001-b3f7-289efb9b6428" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:59:08.113" UserId="672" Text="I am looking for a case to support my server build that will consist of an ASUS Z10PE-D8 motherboard and would like to incorporate two ATX/EPS PSU's along the lines of Corsair RM850i.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs lots of 3.5&quot; HDD mounts for SAS and a few 2.5&quot; SSD mounts for system drives.  &#xD;&#xA;It also needs ample cooling for a dual Xeon E5-2620V3's and 64GB of RAM, as it will run hot.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;A 5.25&quot; front housing would be beneficial but not absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking below £300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1254" RevisionGUID="95fe091e-e511-4001-b3f7-289efb9b6428" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:59:08.113" UserId="672" Text="Case to support EEB motherboard and dual ATX power-supplies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1254" RevisionGUID="95fe091e-e511-4001-b3f7-289efb9b6428" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:59:08.113" UserId="672" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1254" RevisionGUID="43eecde7-55ee-49c1-8594-19afc1d6e5cc" CreationDate="2015-11-17T13:40:41.293" UserId="672" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a case to support my server build that will consist of an ASUS Z10PE-D8 motherboard and would like to incorporate two ATX/EPS PSU's along the lines of Corsair RM850i.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs at least eight 3.5&quot; HDD mounts for SAS and two 2.5&quot; SSD mounts for system drives.  &#xD;&#xA;It also needs ample cooling for a dual Xeon E5-2620V3's and 64GB of RAM, as it will run hot.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;A 5.25&quot; front housing would be beneficial but not absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking below £300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1257" RevisionGUID="5e27ca39-b87b-4831-9fae-67e8124085e6" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:05:26.353" UserId="987" Text="First of al nice buget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are making a true workstation with fast speeds(so not for gaming) but for working with unreal 4 and directX 12 i would go with a Titan X because of the ram benefit and the double float point RAM so you can be sure your not gona get RAM coruption while you are building your gameworld. and i would not pick a socked 1151 but an 2011-3 because the capabilety for more RAM and RAM disks because i would think speed is your game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if you are gona game on it hardcore i would totaly pick the SLI GTX 980ti setup because its just faster at pushing the pixels for gaming. and for the ones who think 8GB + 8GB = 16GB so more RAM that is not how it works. Then i would go with the socked 1151 becaus its cheaper and you don't need 64GB of DDR4 for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hoped this helpes you on your quest of building an epic class pc.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1257" RevisionGUID="0c4715d8-2f5b-4dbc-930c-d4c36899bb0f" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:26:02.333" UserId="987" Comment="added warning" Text="First of al nice buget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are making a true workstation with fast speeds(so not for gaming) but for working with unreal 4 and directX 12 i would go with a Titan X because of the ram benefit and the double float point RAM so you can be sure your not gona get RAM coruption while you are building your gameworld. and i would not pick a socked 1151 but an 2011-3 because the capabilety for more RAM and RAM disks because i would think speed is your game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if you are gona game on it hardcore i would totaly pick the SLI GTX 980ti setup because its just faster at pushing the pixels for gaming. and for the ones who think 8GB + 8GB = 16GB so more RAM that is not how it works. Then i would go with the socked 1151 becaus its cheaper and you don't need 64GB of DDR4 for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hoped this helpes you on your quest of building an epic class pc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Unreal 4 and Unity DOES NOT support Sli &#xD;&#xA;Also 3d programs apperently see 2 gpus as one so the bennefit would be not as mutch or not even at al." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1257" RevisionGUID="7b6a11c8-eab3-4981-aafd-422115e95a3a" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:33:02.300" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed grammar and spelling." Text="If you are making a true workstation with fast speeds(so not for gaming) but for working with unreal 4 and DirectX 12, I would go with a Titan X because of the RAM benefit and the double float point RAM so you can be sure your not going to get RAM corruption while you are building your game world. I would not pick a socked 1151 but an 2011-3 because the capability for more RAM and RAM disks because I would think speed is your game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to game on it hardcore, I would pick the SLI GTX 980ti setup because its just faster at pushing the pixels for gaming. For the ones who think 8GB + 8GB = 16GB so more RAM that is not how it works. Then I would go with the socked 1151 because it's cheaper and you don't need 64GB of DDR4 for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unreal 4 does not support Sli &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1257" RevisionGUID="bad196f8-7c1b-4587-ba17-b0961ea26c76" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:35:15.223" UserId="987" Comment="Changed no sli support" Text="If you are making a true workstation with fast speeds(so not for gaming) but for working with unreal 4 and DirectX 12, I would go with a Titan X because of the RAM benefit and the double float point RAM so you can be sure your not going to get RAM corruption while you are building your game world. I would not pick a socked 1151 but an 2011-3 because the capability for more RAM and RAM disks because I would think speed is your game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to game on it hardcore, I would pick the SLI GTX 980ti setup because its just faster at pushing the pixels for gaming. For the ones who think 8GB + 8GB = 16GB so more RAM that is not how it works. Then I would go with the socked 1151 because it's cheaper and you don't need 64GB of DDR4 for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unreal 4 and Unity 4.X do NOT support Sli &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1258" RevisionGUID="a41fe136-4fca-4b54-ab02-c30869630c07" CreationDate="2015-11-17T16:01:33.790" UserId="989" Text="Does it exist a USB/bluetooth flash drive? I frequently need to copy data from a personal computer (I do not have bluetooth dongle) and a tablet. So I'm thinking about an hardware key acting as a flash drive but with both USB (for the PC) and bluetooth (for the tablet) interfaces. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1258" RevisionGUID="a41fe136-4fca-4b54-ab02-c30869630c07" CreationDate="2015-11-17T16:01:33.790" UserId="989" Text="Flash drive with USB and bluetooth interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1258" RevisionGUID="a41fe136-4fca-4b54-ab02-c30869630c07" CreationDate="2015-11-17T16:01:33.790" UserId="989" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="b4736b5b-5480-4189-9cf8-db29b2d0e7fa" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:57:58.807" UserId="990" Text="Good day,&#xD;&#xA; I am investigating the possiblities of upgrading my current build for games like: Fallout 4, SC2: LotV and Star Wars: Battlefront. &#xD;&#xA;My current build:&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD A10-7600 &#xD;&#xA;CPU cooler:  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO &#xD;&#xA;Mobo: MSI A88XM-E35 &#xD;&#xA;RAM: Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz         &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia GeForce GT630 2GB DDR3 &#xD;&#xA;Storage: &#xD;&#xA; - Kingston SSDNow 120GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - An array of 3 hard drives consisting of a 250 GB and two 1TB drives &#xD;&#xA;PSU: A 550 watt power supply (I'll look up which brand it is)&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what to upgrade, since I had the following things  already pointed out:&#xD;&#xA;-Sticking to DDR3 RAM (and it's pretty cheap to get another kit of 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;-I prefer to upgrade my card to the AMD R9 380 card instead of a Nvidia GTX950 or whatever&#xD;&#xA;-I will stick to gaming at 1920x1080 &#xD;&#xA;-Keeping the upgrades as ‘cheap’ as possible (want to make the most of my current parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are any questions, feel free to ask them!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="b4736b5b-5480-4189-9cf8-db29b2d0e7fa" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:57:58.807" UserId="990" Text="Upgrading my current build for gaming purposes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="b4736b5b-5480-4189-9cf8-db29b2d0e7fa" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:57:58.807" UserId="990" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="86b822ca-8f85-46b4-9c7e-727bb2d4656a" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:04:50.600" UserId="990" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="Good day,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am investigating the possiblities of upgrading my current build for games like: Fallout 4, SC2: LotV and Star Wars: Battlefront. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current build:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD A10-7600 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU cooler:**  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mobo:** MSI    A88XM-E35  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz                &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** Nvidia GeForce GT630 2GB DDR3  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1.Kingston SSDNow 120GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;2.An array of 3 hard drives consisting of a 250 GB and two 1TB drives  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU:** A 550 watt power supply (I'll look up which brand it is)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what to upgrade, since I had the following things  already pointed out:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Sticking to DDR3 RAM (and it's pretty cheap to get another kit of 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I prefer to upgrade my card to the AMD R9 380 card instead of a Nvidia GTX950 or whatever&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I will stick to gaming at 1920x1080 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Keeping the upgrades as ‘cheap’ as possible (want to make the most of my current parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are any questions, feel free to ask them!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="587" RevisionGUID="55fa9ac4-74f2-4dba-bc73-8b6c94ffa388" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:30:13.390" UserId="476" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="The GTX 980 Ti as the other answer mentioned would well meet your needs. It's super powerful, probably the most powerful video card on the market for &lt; $1000 and is competing with the GTX Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link](http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications &quot;hi&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I know it is a common misconception that gaming cards (such as the GTX series) are bad for rendering, but that is simply not true. The workstation cards are only really a benefit if you are doing ***ONLY*** rendering and if you are rendering with high poly counts. (&gt; 250,000 or so)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an alternative, you could consider the R9 Fury X, which is water cooled, has a higher computer power, but has a lower gaming performance than the GTX 980 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't worry, a GTX 980 Ti will dominate modern games on Ultra, above 60fps, maybe with AA as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a fact, driving two 1080p displays in an exceedingly simple task. To put just ***HOW*** simple into perspective, I'm running dual 1080p displays with a 2year old Asus Vivobook purchased for $400 running Intel HD 4000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cheaper alternative might be the R9 390&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4K support&#xD;&#xA;- PCIe 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;- 6 displays max&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB GDDR5 512 bit&#xD;&#xA;- 2560 stream processing units&#xD;&#xA;- 40 compute units" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="a3091332-1866-4886-9ede-f8153fac5e93" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:37:19.917" UserId="476" Comment="Reformatted lists, removed the beginning part (Good days are not allowed, lol, sorry)" Text="I am investigating the possiblities of upgrading my current build for games like: Fallout 4, SC2: LotV and Star Wars: Battlefront. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current build:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD A10-7600 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU cooler:**  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mobo:** MSI A88XM-E35  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz                &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** Nvidia GeForce GT630 2GB DDR3  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Kingston SSDNow 120GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- An array of 3 hard drives consisting of a 250 GB and two 1TB drives  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU:** A 550 watt power supply (I'll look up which brand it is)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what to upgrade, since I had the following things  already pointed out:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sticking to DDR3 RAM (and it's pretty cheap to get another kit of 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer to upgrade my card to the AMD R9 380 card instead of a Nvidia GTX950 or whatever&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will stick to gaming at 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keeping the upgrades as ‘cheap’ as possible (want to make the most of my current parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are any questions, feel free to ask them!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="a3091332-1866-4886-9ede-f8153fac5e93" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:37:19.917" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 289" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="f489fce5-7452-4fa9-8ac3-191de3116665" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:37:19.917" UserId="8" Comment="Reformatted lists, removed the beginning part (Good days are not allowed, lol, sorry)" Text="I am investigating the possiblities of upgrading my current build for games like: Fallout 4, SC2: LotV and Star Wars: Battlefront. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current build:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD A10-7600 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU cooler:**  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** MSI A88XM-E35  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz                &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** Nvidia GeForce GT630 2GB DDR3  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Kingston SSDNow 120GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- An array of 3 hard drives consisting of a 250 GB and two 1TB drives  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU:** A 550 watt power supply (I'll look up which brand it is)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what to upgrade, since I had the following things  already pointed out:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sticking to DDR3 RAM (and it's pretty cheap to get another kit of 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer to upgrade my card to the AMD R9 380 card instead of a Nvidia GTX950 or whatever&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will stick to gaming at 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keeping the upgrades as ‘cheap’ as possible (want to make the most of my current parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are any questions, feel free to ask them!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1260" RevisionGUID="c3d01fa4-64a5-494c-9f2f-12a8e02ff56d" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:59:31.133" UserId="476" Text="Upgrading your GPU&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Guessing at your budget, I'm going to recommend a *[R9 380][1]*, or *[GTX 960][2]*. Both are pretty equal cards, and the GTX 960 pulls ahead in nVidia optimized games but I'm not going to go into that. Upgrading to either will be an extreme improvement to your current GPU. [(Benchmarks)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading CPU&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking to upgrade your CPU, **which in my opinion you don't really need to do**, I would recommend something along the lines of the [i5-6600K][4], because of the 14nm architecture, higher IPC, and newer chipset. Unfortunately, upgrading your CPU would require you to upgrade your motherboard to Z170. I'm not going to write a motherboard recommendation as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;Upgrade RAM&lt;/strike&gt; (Don't)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amd.com/en-us/products/graphics/desktop/r9# &quot;Scroll down to find specs&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications &quot;Specs&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0HzWW6mDno &quot;Benchmarks&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz &quot;Intel spec page&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="81d9a814-841e-417b-a45b-a80a960c087f" CreationDate="2015-11-17T21:30:05.453" UserId="476" Comment="Removed the things that were not arguments for 2011-v3, directly added link to claim" Text="I'm interested in desktop setup that will last. I've narrowed (thanks to [this answer][1]) my motherboard choices to MSI z170 gaming pro and MSI X99 SLI plus. As both cards are quite similar (multiple SATA III, USB 3.0, more than 32GB of RAM), the choice boils down to the chipset: [LGA2011-v3][2] (in MSI X99 SLI plus) or [LGA1151][3] (in MSI z170 gaming pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA2011-v3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Finally, the 8 cores treshold overcomed, and processors can have ex. [32 threads][4]. &#xD;&#xA; - 40 PCIe lanes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA1151:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - released in 2015 (vs 2011-v3 being released in 2014)&#xD;&#xA; - 14 nm litography&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper&#xD;&#xA; - [twice the link speed][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my understanding, in the 1151 there is still the limit to the number of cores a single processor can have, which is [not present in LGA2011][6]. &#xD;&#xA;I'm confused which one will be more supported (ex. better processors will be developped) in the future and what to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT] more specific questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Which one would choose &amp; why?**&#xD;&#xA; 2. **How important is link speed &amp; what is this measure?**  &#xD;&#xA; 3. **Will the LGA1151 overcome the 8 core treshold in next generations like 2011?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1219/951&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81060/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2698-v3-40M-Cache-2_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://vr-zone.com/articles/socket-2011-futures-a-difficult-road-to-perfection/13147.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="81d9a814-841e-417b-a45b-a80a960c087f" CreationDate="2015-11-17T21:30:05.453" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 60, 951 edit id of 290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1091" RevisionGUID="9b9b943e-1d90-4b73-8312-e8c0bc0a6a7c" CreationDate="2015-11-17T22:58:39.740" UserId="8" Comment="appended answer 1162 as supplemental" Text="Current setup, kind of outdated - was built in 2009, except graphics card and a chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair 650D chassis&#xD;&#xA;- Asus P5Q Deluxe motherboard&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core2Quad 3GHz @4GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Radeon R9 290 GPU&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair 750W PSU&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to keep chassis and gfx card for a new setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a motherboard recommendation which will handle Intel i5 4690K CPU and will allows me to keep that new setup for another next 4-5 years at least (upgrade CPU, upgrade gfx card, etc), ability to OC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read that anything on Z97 will be fine but there are too many options to go for and I have no clue which one will have longer life span (BIOS updates, better support etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price something below $250&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;After some research I have found those motherboards interesting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ASRock Z97 Extreme6&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Z97 Gaming 5&#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H&#xD;&#xA;- ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer &#xD;&#xA;- Gigabyte G1 Gaming GA-Z97X Gaming 5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I will review each of them in a depth and will pick that one which will fits the most. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1261" RevisionGUID="4ed81965-93cc-4811-b2a7-db6aac3aa0af" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:12:45.523" UserId="65" Text="I'm looking for a new alarm clock.  My wife is hyper-sensitive to lights in the bedroom, but we both like to know what time it is without having to reach over to the nightstand (this seems to make it harder to get back to sleep) and I often get up long before her.  I've spent hours searching, but there are just so many out there and the terminology to describe what I need is so generic as to make it impossible to find.  To make matters worse, most alarm clocks seem to be getting brighter and louder than they were 30 years ago, and many seem to tout the very features I don't want (loud alarm, night light, etc.). I need an alarm clock that meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Plug in with battery backup--I can't afford to have the batteries die or the power go out in the middle of the night and not get woken up.&#xD;&#xA; * Very low light: Constantly lit so we can read it from about 4 feet away, but giving off less light than a single micro LED (even that often casts a shadow in a dark room), while still visible during the day without manual adjustment--probably a tritium or phosphorescent display.&#xD;&#xA; * Highly adjustable alarm loudness.  I currently use a clock-radio with the volume on VERY low--it can barely be heard from across the room, not at all with the furnace blower going.&#xD;&#xA; * Less than $20&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be really cool and I'd be willing to pay extra if it had any of the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Bluetooth connectivity/speaker for daytime use&#xD;&#xA; * Automatic daylight savings adjustment&#xD;&#xA; * iPhone (lightning) charging/dock&#xD;&#xA; * Multiple alarm settings for weekday/weekend&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI: my current system is a clock-radio with paper put over the LED display to dim it sufficiently, but it's now so dim that it can't be seen during the day at all, and the radio isn't great--the reception is affected by the proximity of my hand to the radio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1261" RevisionGUID="4ed81965-93cc-4811-b2a7-db6aac3aa0af" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:12:45.523" UserId="65" Text="Low-light Quiet Alarm Clock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1261" RevisionGUID="4ed81965-93cc-4811-b2a7-db6aac3aa0af" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:12:45.523" UserId="65" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1262" RevisionGUID="dcb6b768-282c-4805-a42f-19b9e4beb568" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:33:17.163" UserId="171" Text="My root WiFi access point has WPA2-PSK(AES/TKIP) security. I want to extend it with different SSID and passphrase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found TP-Link devices at affordable price such as, [WA-701ND V1][1], [TL-WR702N][2] but I guess they do not support root access point with WPA2-PSK security.&#xD;&#xA;I have requirement like [this][3] but TL-WA701ND V2 is currently not available in India.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommend me such hardware of any brand available at online shopping portals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/cat-12_TL-WA701ND.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tp-link.in/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR702N.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tp-link.in/FAQ-835.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1262" RevisionGUID="dcb6b768-282c-4805-a42f-19b9e4beb568" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:33:17.163" UserId="171" Text="WiFi device having Bridge with AP Mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1262" RevisionGUID="dcb6b768-282c-4805-a42f-19b9e4beb568" CreationDate="2015-11-18T05:33:17.163" UserId="171" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="984" RevisionGUID="623c8c50-0ab4-4bcd-a418-042c1ba9a6ab" CreationDate="2015-11-18T09:17:54.417" UserId="737" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="[This](http://www.bjorn3d.com/2015/08/intel-core-i7-6700k-review-skylake-falling/3/) could help you find your answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see for photo editing the 6700k is pretty good but not the best&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see [here](http://techreport.com/review/28751/intel-core-i7-6700k-skylake-processor-reviewed/10), the 5960x does beat it quite often then not but it's also 3 times the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So between the 6700k and 5820k&#xD;&#xA;multicore: 5820k is about 25% faster.&#xD;&#xA;singlecore the 6700k is 23% faster.&#xD;&#xA;these are from benchmark scores&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot go wrong with either, noticeable advantages the 5820k has over 6700k is the memory bandwith which seriously quite high (Double actually) and the 2 cores (4threads)&#xD;&#xA;So after reconsideration on my behalf, the 5820k might actually be the better choice since photo editing softwares are all 64bit and multicore nowdays. You can even overclock the 5820k more easily than the 6700k.&#xD;&#xA;But then in gaming the 6700k takes the large, not by much but still noticable since it's single core performamce are pretty high. the 6700k is also power efficient and suports usb 3.1 natively (future proof)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5820k would be my choice, with a setup than doesn't bottleneck it's performances. Atleast for the next 4-5years you're good to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1263" RevisionGUID="705fdbc2-401a-44b8-88eb-5191825b8fb8" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:12:07.193" UserId="993" Text="So, I've got an Asus k53sv laptop with an i7 2630qm processor and want to upgrade to an i7 3820qm. Their sockets and power consumption are the same, as listen on Intel's website, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. Only concern is whether a driver mismatch might occur. Do you think this would work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1263" RevisionGUID="705fdbc2-401a-44b8-88eb-5191825b8fb8" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:12:07.193" UserId="993" Text="Upgrade Laptop CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1263" RevisionGUID="705fdbc2-401a-44b8-88eb-5191825b8fb8" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:12:07.193" UserId="993" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1264" RevisionGUID="7138a890-1472-42d5-9f65-012f3b4adcc8" CreationDate="2015-11-18T12:30:53.410" UserId="987" Text="It could work but i wouldn't recommend it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First of all this will void your warrenty, second most laptops are not made to be upgraded. most laptops have there CPU and GPU hardwired to the motherboard.  you may get heat issuse and you cooler might break or not bend back proberly if done wrong.&#xD;&#xA;I don't think you can buy mobile CPU's on the consummer marked. maybe you should consider to upgrade to a new laptop. I personaly have a Gs60 Ghost from MSI and its great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want your pc to be a bit faster maybe try installing an SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I wouldn't do it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1265" RevisionGUID="a635d939-0909-46fb-970d-aefd42847734" CreationDate="2015-11-18T12:45:30.520" UserId="581" Text="Like mentioned [here on Tomshardware][1], it probably won't work because you're dealing with different generations of intel processors (the i7 3XXX series and the older i7 2XXX series).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best thing you can do, is either install an ssd or buy a new laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2703974/intel-core-3840qm-upgrade-envy-17t-2100-cto-2630qm.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1265" RevisionGUID="c194866f-1a02-4e1f-a88d-71ac6cfb26a0" CreationDate="2015-11-18T13:32:33.497" UserId="581" Comment="added 552 characters in body" Text="Like mentioned [here on Tomsguide][1], it won't work because you're dealing with different generations of intel processors (the i7 3XXX series and the older i7 2XXX series) using different types of sockets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;(sorry I hadn't noticed you already had an ssd.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is possible to upgrade from a second generation i7 to another second generation i7 ([link to battlefield 3 battlelog forum][2]). The performance increase from such a small upgrade is barely noticable and the risks are imho too high.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.tomsguide.com/answers/id-2309244/laptop-cpu.html&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2832654347986065042/&#xD;&#xA;[3]: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2703974/intel-core-3840qm-upgrade-envy-17t-2100-cto-2630qm.html " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1264" RevisionGUID="80328f0b-1277-4e46-b0eb-14ac999b04ff" CreationDate="2015-11-18T13:35:05.473" UserId="987" Comment="Update " Text="It could work but i wouldn't recommend it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First of all this will void your warrenty, second most laptops are not made to be upgraded. most laptops have there CPU and GPU soldered to the motherboard.  you may get heat issuse and you cooler might break or not bend back proberly if done wrong.&#xD;&#xA;I don't think you can buy mobile CPU's on the consummer marked. maybe you should consider to upgrade to a new laptop. I personaly have a Gs60 Ghost from MSI and its great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want your pc to be a bit faster maybe try installing an SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the TDP is the same and you are good in removing tiny screw and appying maybe some silicon glue you may be able to do it. as of drivers that shoulden't have to be a problem.I think your motherboard also needs to support it. I'm not a laptop hardware expert so keep that in mind.So keep that in mine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;acoring to intel the CPU is 568.00 dollars wich is expensive in my book for a gamble. if you manage to do it be sure to update this question.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I wouldn't do it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1266" RevisionGUID="966b846b-28b8-4b44-b135-ff6996027ac2" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:00:28.097" UserId="987" Text="Like qmd said, these aren't ment for gaming. if you realy want a surface pro 4 i would go with the i5 8GB model because at this day and age you need at lease 1.5GB for a chrome to run smooth and a i7 is not needed for the day to day jobs unless you are doing virtualysation of any kind or foto/video editing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would get a surface Book wich CAN handle modern games. also i has a keyboard with i way prefere then the bad one that you can get on the surface pro 4. the surface book startes at 1500 dollars and is a 2 in 1 laptop kind of machine with video card. there is also a model without the videocard but i would not get that one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both of the models i would get the surface hub for more ports for at home or in a hotel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it is totaly up to you but if i was you i would get the i5 surface book. here is a link for you clicking plesure to both the surface pro 4 and the surface book [Surface book][1], [Surface pro 4][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325721500&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325711500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1265" RevisionGUID="20b1b657-92eb-4ffb-86d6-f292f43ec10f" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:07:52.743" UserId="581" Comment="added 148 characters in body" Text="Like mentioned [here on Tomsguide][1], it won't work because you're dealing with different generations of intel processors (the i7 3XXX series and the older i7 2XXX series) using different types of sockets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;(I didn't know you already had an ssd.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is possible to upgrade from a second generation i7 to another second generation i7. The performance increase from such a small upgrade is barely noticable and the risks are too high imho.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a list of laptop Passmark scores][2]. Between the i7-2630qm and the i7-2860qm there's a difference of just 1730 points. That's a performance increase of about 30 percent (in real life performance the difference will be smaller, though).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also can you mention where you generally use your laptop for? gaming, editing, browsing, etc.?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomsguide.com/answers/id-2309244/laptop-cpu.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/laptop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1267" RevisionGUID="d15d3465-f112-41aa-9f87-ce124bcef917" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:34:31.190" UserId="987" Text="Becaus you are on the cheap I would recomend on of 3 mice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Trust GXT 166 MMO**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The first one here is an mmo mouse is about 50 euro has weights and trust claims its game grade.&#xD;&#xA;The software is okey(I find it better then razers driver software wich i don't like at all)and it has 9 buttons on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Trust GXT31 USB**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Is a cheaper mouse its about 20 euro it works nice on a wood and plastic. it has a real nice feel in the hand and a height system for you the lovers out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Logitech MX master**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;If you want a premium mouse that doesn't break the bank i would pick this one its wireless but with no hickups. it feels nice in the hand has multiple macro buttons. has gesture suport also i has free scrole its made from metal has 2 scrol weels and a tilt scroll button. this mouse is out of you price range tho its 80 to 100 euro but worth every penny." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1242" RevisionGUID="c8ce18e1-74f8-4f8c-b29c-38852151806f" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:40:46.363" UserId="975" Comment="Updated question based on answers" Text="The new Surface Pro 4 seems a pretty solid machine and I'm looking to get one as my new mobile workstation since I travel a lot for work (compared to the back-breaking Dell workstation I currently have to drag everywhere). But I also want it to be *reasonably* good at running modern games, though they don't have to be at their highest settings or pulling 90FPS. Thankfully there are several options, but I'd like advice on which (if any) will make the most difference versus their cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the configurations I'm considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 / 4GB / 128GB ($999)&#xD;&#xA; - i5 / 8GB / 256GB ($1299)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 / 8GB / 256GB ($1599)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also the i7 with 16GB but it's a bit more expensive than I'd like to pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to get the most bang for my buck out of it in terms of performance. Primarily it will be a work computer but if I occasionally want to fire up a newer game, what's the lowest model on the list that will comfortably handle it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I listed the SSD sizes simply for comparison of the benefits. Their size is not critical to the question, but could make the difference if I'm on the fence between the two i5s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Based on the answers so far it seems the Surface Book with the dedicated GPU may be the better way to go for gaming. Is the GPU itself the limiting factor? As far as I can tell the other hardware (aside from the screen) is the same. In the price range of the i5 Book with GPU ($1900 USD) is there anything else that offers better gaming performance while still being highly mobile and functional?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="ce1f886c-0782-4b34-ae63-573f70a32588" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:11:12.580" UserId="57" Comment="added 91 characters in body" Text="I am investigating the possiblities of upgrading my current build for games like: Fallout 4, SC2: LotV and Star Wars: Battlefront. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current build:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD A10-7600 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU cooler:**  Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** MSI A88XM-E35  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4GB DDR3 2133Mhz                &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** Nvidia GeForce GT630 2GB DDR3  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Kingston SSDNow 120GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- An array of 3 hard drives consisting of a 250 GB and two 1TB drives  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU:** A 550 watt power supply (I'll look up which brand it is)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what to upgrade, since I had the following things  already pointed out:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sticking to DDR3 RAM (and it's pretty cheap to get another kit of 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer to upgrade my card to the AMD R9 380 card instead of a Nvidia GTX950 or whatever&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will stick to gaming at 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keeping the upgrades as ‘cheap’ as possible (want to make the most of my current parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My budget ranges from 300 to 500 euros in total (considering I want to upgrade certain components and not buying a completely new build).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1268" RevisionGUID="d7d87b2b-4ca9-478f-b250-99facac76312" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:12:14.997" UserId="987" Text="**Trust GXT31 USB**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;This is from trust wich is a buget computer tech company. This is a smal low profile style mouse. it has 1 LED that can change colour in software. it has 2 macro buttons on the left side of the mouse. had has a button on the top. it has a smooth scrolling scroll wheel but is not analog or free scrolling. it has a rubber texture on the left side of the mouse and a smooth finish on the top sporting a cammo look. it has a infra red sensor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software is not bad and easy to use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse is around 20 euro if you can find it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1266" RevisionGUID="20fc5d81-2c56-49a2-b64e-f9ee85331738" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:16:46.370" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed grammar and spelling" Text="Like qmd said, these aren't meant for gaming. If you really want a Surface Pro 4, I would go with the i5 8GB model, because at this day and age, you need at lease 1.5GB for Chrome to run smooth and a i7 is not needed for the day to day jobs unless you are doing virtualization of any kind or photo/video editing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would get a Surface Book which CAN handle modern games. also i has a keyboard with i way prefere then the bad one that you can get on the surface pro 4. The Surface Book starts at 1500 dollars and is a 2 in 1 laptop kind of machine with a video card. There is also a model without the video card, but I would not get that one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both models, I would get the surface hub for more ports for at home or in a hotel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is up to you, but I would get the i5 Surface Book. Here are links for your clicking pleasure to both the [Surface Pro 4][2] and the [Surface Book][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325721500&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325711500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1254" RevisionGUID="2b0b29d6-6844-4487-ad34-935abd6cd5f4" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:19:58.600" UserId="57" Comment="added 134 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a case to support my server build that will consist of an ASUS Z10PE-D8 motherboard and would like to incorporate two ATX/EPS PSU's along the lines of Corsair RM850i.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs at least eight 3.5&quot; HDD mounts for SAS and two 2.5&quot; SSD mounts for system drives.  &#xD;&#xA;It also needs ample cooling for a dual Xeon E5-2620V3's and 64GB of RAM, as it will run hot.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;A 5.25&quot; front housing would be beneficial but not absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking below £300. A tower is preferable. With rack mounted, I'd have to reduce the budget to £200 to factor in some of the cost of rails and a cabinet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1269" RevisionGUID="c7cfb280-8b5c-4cec-9e4a-5f12c1abeb8f" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:20:19.693" UserId="987" Text="**Logitech MX master**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A realy nice mouse that is made out of solid metal with an gold an black look. on the left side it has 3 buttons one featuring a gesture control. It means that you can do gestures for windows and custome ones by holding that button. that button is also the thump rest. just right above that is a horazontal scrolling wheel and 2 macro buttons.&lt;br&gt; &#xD;&#xA;the scrol wheel can tilt to the left and right and features a smart lock system. It means that when you scroll fast it will unlock an use free scroll. sensetifity can be changed in software. it also has an unlock button for free scroll.&lt;br&gt; &#xD;&#xA;The software is nice and simple to use with a friendly UI. It isn't wired tho.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse cost more than your buget but it is totaly worth it.&#xD;&#xA;its 80 to 100 euro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1267" RevisionGUID="c961b031-4922-4ac4-8101-b9b087aff87d" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:24:38.863" UserId="987" Comment="request" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Trust GXT 166 MMO**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;This is a razer naga style mouse. it has a high grip and 11 buttons on the left side of the mouse. this mouse doesn't have a thump rest but that isnt that bad. it glides okey but not the best. it has a red and black color sceme. has a okey scrolling wheel. it has a weight system and is ofset to the left for a pink rest. it is wired with a red cable it has lights in the scroll wheel and the logo. it also has 2 buttons below the scroll wheel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1270" RevisionGUID="349d1447-add8-469e-b852-a1a06f80b7db" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:27:20.783" UserId="461" Text="Other than hardware issues (whether the CPU is soldered, and whether the socket is the same), software/bios/driver issues should not be a problem if the two CPUs are from the same generation (sometimes it even works with different generations of CPUs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done it on a Thinkpad T61 a few years ago, as well as on a(n old) Mac Mini recently (in both cases upgrading to a Core 2 Duo).  If the CPU is cheap enough (as is the case when the CPU is an old model), I find it's definitely worth the trouble." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1266" RevisionGUID="463e52b9-7c9a-40c0-9795-02c3d6879bf4" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:37:18.497" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar and spelling, added price for recommended hardware, fixed an incorrect link" Text="Like qmd said, these aren't meant for gaming. If you really want a Surface Pro 4, I would go with the i5 8GB model, because at this day and age, you need at least 1.5GB for Chrome to run smoothly and a i7 is not needed for the day to day jobs unless you are doing virtualization of any kind or photo/video editing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would get a Surface Book which CAN handle modern games. Also it has a keyboard which I prefer to the one that you can get on the Surface Pro 4. The Surface Book starts at $1500 ([$1899](http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325716000?icid=en_US_SurfaceBk_cat_modG_100615) for the model with the dedicated GPU) and is a 2 in 1 laptop kind of machine with a video card. There is also a model without the video card, but I would not get that one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both models, I would get the [Surface Dock ($199.99)](http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Microsoft-Surface-Dock/productID.325725200) for more ports for at home or in a hotel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is up to you, but I would get the i5 Surface Book. Here are links for your clicking pleasure to both the [Surface Pro 4][2] and the [Surface Book][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325721500&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/productID.325716000?icid=en_US_SurfaceBk_cat_modG_100615" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1266" RevisionGUID="463e52b9-7c9a-40c0-9795-02c3d6879bf4" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:37:18.497" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 60, 987 edit id of 291" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1271" RevisionGUID="8d6bb247-0bbc-4050-8d3b-cef155586cc5" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:47:03.517" UserId="461" Text="I'd go with a standard home router with the following constraints:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supported by OpenWRT.&#xD;&#xA;- comes with at least one USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;then plug a USB-4G dongle into it.  See http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/recipes/3gdongle for some info about how to configure OpenWRT for that kind of use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1271" RevisionGUID="846c3297-e227-4e8e-b1ea-a5a41c20db58" CreationDate="2015-11-18T16:26:47.390" UserId="461" Comment="Add specific recommendation" Text="I'd go with a standard home router with the following constraints:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supported by OpenWRT.&#xD;&#xA;- comes with at least one USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;then plug a USB-4G dongle into it.  See http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/recipes/3gdongle for some info about how to configure OpenWRT for that kind of use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which specific router to use will depend on what other features you want it to provide, but if you want a particular recommendation, you could start with the TL-WDR4300, which is reasonably powerful, not too expensive, and fully supported." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1273" RevisionGUID="ff5254db-1704-4851-b4e5-0fa261d7e149" CreationDate="2015-11-18T17:52:17.167" UserId="998" Text="I am looking for a graphics card that works well (i.e. has good performance) with the open source drivers that are part of the Linux kernel (version 4.2). I don't need monster performance (not interested in gaming at all) but at least the desktop environment (GNOME Shell) and WebGL in the browser should work smoothly. Cost should be €100 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done a lot of research already but now once again bought a graphics card (Radeon HD 8350) that exhibits showstoppingly terrible performance (8 FPS on simple WebGL benchmarks) with the open source Radeon drivers. It's easy to find GPUs compatible with Linux nowadays (which this one is) but in practice it's still unusable without the binary blob.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that [Phoronix](https://www.phoronix.com) is considered the authoritative source on that topic but they mostly test high-end GPUs for which they consistently find abysmal performance under Linux compared to the proprietary drivers. I just need a card that will make my desktop and browsing feel like it's 2015 and not 1992." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1273" RevisionGUID="ff5254db-1704-4851-b4e5-0fa261d7e149" CreationDate="2015-11-18T17:52:17.167" UserId="998" Text="Graphics card that works well with Linux open source drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1273" RevisionGUID="ff5254db-1704-4851-b4e5-0fa261d7e149" CreationDate="2015-11-18T17:52:17.167" UserId="998" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4515" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1263" RevisionGUID="13e33959-fa9f-4806-888c-efd5d4fd92be" CreationDate="2015-11-18T18:35:20.297" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="44052123-7774-4400-aa82-0f126a202349" CreationDate="2015-11-18T21:58:12.553" UserId="999" Text="This is for a desktop, do not plan any overclocking. Usage is primarily media consumption, photo/video editing, casual gaming. Operating system Windows 10 x64 Professional. Price range looking up to $200 USD (Consider more for  reliability benefit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Planned components include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core i7 7600 &#xD;&#xA;- M.2 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 4 SATA HDDs &#xD;&#xA;- NVidia GeForce GTX 950&#xD;&#xA;- 2x 8GB DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard should include at least one USB3.1 Type A + Type C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Onboard Bluetooth &amp; WiFi is a plus but not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking primarily at Gigabyte / ASUS boards (because that's what I'm familiar with) but the selection is overwhelming, and unfortunately spec sheets don't cover stability/reliability.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="44052123-7774-4400-aa82-0f126a202349" CreationDate="2015-11-18T21:58:12.553" UserId="999" Text="ATX LGA1151 Motherboard /w Stability Primary Concern" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="44052123-7774-4400-aa82-0f126a202349" CreationDate="2015-11-18T21:58:12.553" UserId="999" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="b602a7a8-4980-4a72-9855-b7f7dbce1160" CreationDate="2015-11-18T22:42:35.737" UserId="1000" Text="I need a small monitor. Monitor that can display only 5 digits. The monitor needs to show number of visits to my site in real-time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Every time someone visit it needs to increased by one).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought to create an app, that fetch the server every 10 seconds, and check new number of visitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question: Do you think know about a monitor that can be programmed from commmand line?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All what I found in Ebay &amp; DealExtreme you need to program the led monitor by software, you cannot add it to your program" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="b602a7a8-4980-4a72-9855-b7f7dbce1160" CreationDate="2015-11-18T22:42:35.737" UserId="1000" Text="Led Monitor for 5 digits (connected to USB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="b602a7a8-4980-4a72-9855-b7f7dbce1160" CreationDate="2015-11-18T22:42:35.737" UserId="1000" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="609" RevisionGUID="17d6c0f1-4328-4b0f-a010-8c37ec035fb8" CreationDate="2015-11-18T23:05:44.503" UserId="518" Comment="On second thought, partly accept edit suggestion." Text="For a thorough and safe compilation I went to the good old [80plus.org](http://80plus.org).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now it seems the best at 100 W consumption are (those under 92 % &lt;del&gt;struck&lt;/del&gt;), among the ATX at 500 W max or less and sorted by average:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [CFD KRPW-TI500W/94+](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CFD%20SALES%20INC._KRPW-TI500W%2094_500W_ECOS%203999.1_Report.pdf) or Enhance ATX-1850: 93.89% (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 93.47%);&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell L240EPM-00](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DELL%20INC._L240EPM-00_240W_EU-098_Report.pdf): 92 % ([SFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor), max 240 W, average 92.45 %);&#xD;&#xA;* [Fujitsu S26113-E613-V70-](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/FUJITSU%20TECHNOLOGY%20SOLUTIONS%20GMBH_S26113-E613-V70-_250W_ECOS%203622_Report.pdf): ~93 % (actually at 127 W; ATX12V, max 250 W, average 92.41 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Sea Sonic SS-460FL](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SEA%20SONIC%20ELECTRONICS%20CO.,%20LTD._SS-460FL%5E2_460W_ECOS%203320_Report.pdf) or XTS 460&#xD;&#xA;or LDLC-460FLP: 91 % (ATX12V, max 460 W, average 92.01 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dirac DIR-TCAXP-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/DIRAC_DIR-TCAXP-500_500W_ECOS%203784.1_Report.pdf): 92.32 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.64 %);&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Chengdu G500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CHENGDU%20YU%20QING%20XUAN%20ZHILIAN%20TECHNOLOGY%20CO.LTD_G500_500W_EU-032_Report.pdf): 91.48 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.89 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[HKC T-500](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HKC%20OVERSEAS%20LIMITED_T-500_500W_EU-078_Report.pdf): 90.77 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.67 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Sparkle Power SPI450ACAP](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SPARKLE%20POWER_SPI450ACAP_ECOS%202686.1_450W_Report.pdf) or PT-450M or FSP450-60ETN: ~92 % (ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.32 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Avnet ADEPAD0300I-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/AVNET_ADEPAD0300I-01_ECOS%203203%20_300W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (ATX12V, max 300 W, average 91.31 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* [HP D12-240P2A](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/HEWLETT-PACKARD_D12-240P2A_240W_ECOS%203384_Report.pdf): ~94 % (actually at 120 W; ATX12V, max 240 W, average 91.18 %);&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Antec EA-450 Platinum](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ANTEC_EA-450%20PLATINUM_ECOS%202882_450W_Report.pdf): ~91 % (actually at 90 W; ATX12V, max 450 W, average 91.18 %)&lt;/del&gt;**;&#xD;&#xA;* **[Tiger Power TG12-0250-01](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/TIGER%20POWER_TG12-0250-01_250W_ECOS%203430_Report.pdf): ~92 % (ATX12V, max 250 W, average 91.17 %)**;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;del&gt;[Scythe SPTRP-500(P)(N)](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/SCYTHE_SPTRP-500(P)(N)_ECOS%202797.1_500W_Report.pdf) or HPA-500PT-F14S (C): 90.47 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 91.06 %)&lt;/del&gt;;&#xD;&#xA;* **&lt;del&gt;[Enermax EPM500AWT](http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/ENERMAX%20TECHNOLOGY%20CORP._EPM500AWT_ECOS%202916_500W_Report.pdf): 90.65 % (ATX12V, max 500 W, average 90.94 %)&lt;/del&gt;**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bolded those which were relatively easy to find. Some close relatives of the Sparkle and Tiger can be found at 80 $ or less; the others are typically around 100-120 $. The Enermax seems definitely not worth its price compared to the Antec and Sea Sonic, but it depends a lot on where you are. Finding the OEM ones would be the real success...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo also had some great results but these were with custom format factors. (Also some great results at 1U and 2U form factors: glad to see server farms are now paying attention, but off topic here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 92 % efficiency at 50 % power, of those with capacity up to 300 W: D12-240P2A; S26113-E613-V70-; CPB09-045C; D14-200P1A; D13-280P2A; DPS-300ADV; F180EPS-00; PS-4201-1HA; HKF1802-3A; F240EPM-00; IFX90ATX300W; PS-4281-1HA; TG12-0250-01; ADEPAD0300I-01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full list of models above 90 % efficiency at 20 % power, of those with capacity between 301 W and 500 W: KRPW-TI500W/94+; ATX-1850; FSP400-60AGTAA; PCC005-020H2; PCE009; DIR-TCAXP-500; KRPW-PT500W/92+ REV2.0; ATX-1350; PS-5401-1HA; FSP500-70ETN; PT-450M; SPI450ACAP; FSP450-60ETN; IP-P400IQ3-2; DPS-320QB A; DPS-320QB B; FSP400-60ETN; GW-6000(92+); EA-450 Platinum; FSP500-70AAPB; XTS 460; LDLC-460FLP; SS-460FL2; DPS-500AB-5 X; FSP400-40AGPAA; GPG400V; FSP450-60PTM; PCC005; EPM500AWT; SS-400FL2; X7 500; FSP500-50FSPT; XPSQ-450.R4; SPTRP-500(P)(N); HPA-500PT-F14S (C); IP-P500IQ3-2; GW-ATX400(92+); DPS-320RB A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1277" RevisionGUID="a3badaf4-87e1-4d43-a81d-1873da5c7b88" CreationDate="2015-11-18T23:33:40.710" UserId="912" Text="The ASUS Sabertooth Z170 Mark I is what you are looking for. It is around $250 but what you are getting is worth the money. First of all, there is a plastic shield on the front for protection against the chips of the motherboard and there is a metal shield on the back to protect against ESD and board flex. The power delivery components are all tested with a military standard and a report sheet with the tests your motherboard passed is included. There are 2 small, but powerful, fans to cool the power delivery components to prevent them from overheating and extending their life span. It also comes with a 5 year warranty (2 more years than the standard boards)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="41a86a94-1c56-48a2-aab8-9291450420ca" CreationDate="2015-11-19T01:03:01.810" UserId="476" Comment="Fixed typos, added links" Text="This is for a desktop, do not plan any overclocking. Usage is primarily media consumption, photo/video editing, casual gaming. Operating system Windows 10 x64 Professional. Price range looking up to $200 USD (Consider more for  reliability benefit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Planned components include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core [i7-6700][1] &#xD;&#xA;- M.2 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 4 SATA HDDs &#xD;&#xA;- nVidia [GeForce GTX 950][1]&#xD;&#xA;- 2x 8GB DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard should include at least one USB3.1 Type A + Type C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Onboard Bluetooth &amp; WiFi is a plus but not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking primarily at Gigabyte / ASUS boards (because that's what I'm familiar with) but the selection is overwhelming, and unfortunately spec sheets don't cover stability/reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="41a86a94-1c56-48a2-aab8-9291450420ca" CreationDate="2015-11-19T01:03:01.810" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 999 edit id of 294" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1275" RevisionGUID="64be2de5-1891-45e4-8311-4eff78653f7b" CreationDate="2015-11-19T01:06:27.000" UserId="155" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="This is for a desktop, do not plan any overclocking. Usage is primarily media consumption, photo/video editing, casual gaming. Operating system Windows 10 x64 Professional. Price range looking up to $200 USD. (Consider more for  reliability benefit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Planned components include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Intel i7-6700][1] &#xD;&#xA;- M.2 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 4 SATA HDDs &#xD;&#xA;- [nVidia GeForce GTX 950][2]&#xD;&#xA;- 2x8GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard should include at least one USB3.1 Type A + Type C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Onboard Bluetooth &amp; Wi-Fi is a plus but not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking primarily at Gigabyte/ASUS boards (because that's what I'm familiar with) but the selection is overwhelming, and unfortunately spec sheets don't cover stability/reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]:http://ark.intel.com/products/88196/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_00-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="b11a1dbd-ce62-4e3a-a2d0-1b29eca85767" CreationDate="2015-11-19T02:13:19.870" UserId="476" Comment="Added what 'HD' is." Text="Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-movement depending on the movement of the speaker (Auto-follow)&#xD;&#xA; - HD resolution (720p)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with live streaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="b11a1dbd-ce62-4e3a-a2d0-1b29eca85767" CreationDate="2015-11-19T02:13:19.870" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 313 edit id of 295" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="087da1d9-aeb4-4812-81f5-d85ff1281b27" CreationDate="2015-11-19T02:24:04.680" UserId="912" Comment="Added some more details" Text="Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-movement depending on the movement of the speaker (Auto-follow)&#xD;&#xA; - HD resolution (720p)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with live streaming&#xD;&#xA; - Below $1000&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="512" RevisionGUID="087da1d9-aeb4-4812-81f5-d85ff1281b27" CreationDate="2015-11-19T02:24:04.680" Comment="Proposed by 912 approved by 313 edit id of 296" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1279" RevisionGUID="b807e05c-82eb-45a3-b3f9-8e064bdd6fcf" CreationDate="2015-11-19T06:24:37.730" UserId="1005" Text="I have a need for a computer that I can code and test Node.js on, but is physically not capable of web browsing (an absolute requirement). It would be nice if it had internet capability (even through a gsm chip) so I can update software and test server applications.&#xA;&#xA;I figured there might be some configuration where the graphics processor is not capable of powering a gui. A second thought would be a monochrome LCD with large pixels so it is not practical for web browsing.&#xA;&#xA;The system should preferably be sealed and not look like a conventional laptop or tablet.&#xA;&#xA;If necessary I can build it (and I know I will probably need to), it just needs to fit the requirements.&#xA;&#xA;By the way, I don't care what the OS is, I just need it to run Node.js." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1279" RevisionGUID="b807e05c-82eb-45a3-b3f9-8e064bdd6fcf" CreationDate="2015-11-19T06:24:37.730" UserId="1005" Text="PC that is not able to browse the web for Node.js code editing and testing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1279" RevisionGUID="b807e05c-82eb-45a3-b3f9-8e064bdd6fcf" CreationDate="2015-11-19T06:24:37.730" UserId="1005" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="d5bdf059-7c4e-4df2-b1c8-0ab178b92731" CreationDate="2015-11-19T08:56:39.840" UserId="171" Comment="added little more explaination" Text="Is there any hardware which can consume connection from 3G/4G SIM, LAN Ethernet cable, existing low range WiFi and can provide it as wifi access point and LAN, both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New WiFi from this hardware should have consistent access, regardless which underlying connectivity it uses. It would be better if it is portable. &#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using SoftAP mode of WN722N wifi USB adapter. It delivers internet(via WiFi) obtained from any source(3G/4G adapter/LAN/another WiFi). It creates bridged network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If its not possible in single device, recommend me combination of devices, with minimum cost. I expect it to serve 5 to 10 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zExxQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1280" RevisionGUID="9794eb37-69f4-48b7-af25-36f83fd63640" CreationDate="2015-11-19T09:17:36.280" UserId="1006" Text="I'm playing a lot with my friends and daily we encounter something extremely hilarious. I would like to save these moments so we could watch them later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I would like to achieve:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Record HDMI stream with a 3rd party device so it doesn't lag my PC at all.&#xD;&#xA;- Record what others say in mumble&#xD;&#xA;- record what I say in mumble&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device that can do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1280" RevisionGUID="9794eb37-69f4-48b7-af25-36f83fd63640" CreationDate="2015-11-19T09:17:36.280" UserId="1006" Text="Record hdmi stream and incoming &amp; outcoming mumble stream" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1280" RevisionGUID="9794eb37-69f4-48b7-af25-36f83fd63640" CreationDate="2015-11-19T09:17:36.280" UserId="1006" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4555" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="d26968cd-cf0c-4343-b871-d94e49f970f8" CreationDate="2015-11-19T13:59:16.013" UserId="54" Comment="6" />
  <row Id="4556" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="1edfb4e5-4636-46a3-aae1-972b8e9fb5c3" CreationDate="2015-11-19T14:01:21.470" UserId="54" Comment="7" />
  <row Id="4558" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="a47bfc0f-fff9-4dfb-a8d9-29da5cd67924" CreationDate="2015-11-19T14:02:50.850" UserId="54" Comment="8" />
  <row Id="4561" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="2496f301-6aad-4c08-aabe-e5ee2328753f" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:26:08.813" UserId="912" Comment="Changed the 802.11x mistakes to 802.1x" Text="I want to use my nexus 5x to make presentations, but apparently, there is no video support. I tried an asus miracast dongle, but that is spotty at best. So it appears that my only good option is to use a chromecast device, but my university uses the 802.1x protocol, which chromecast apparently does not support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a way to use a travel router to do what I want? I see two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The router does not connect to the internet and simply allows my phone and the chromecast to communicate. I don't know if chromecast needs internet access to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. It connects to the internet using the 802.1x protocol, but then provides a different protocol (11n, etc) for my phone and the chromecast. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will either of these options work? Or some other setup? Specific hardware suggestions are of course welcome. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="2496f301-6aad-4c08-aabe-e5ee2328753f" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:26:08.813" UserId="912" Comment="Changed the 802.11x mistakes to 802.1x" Text="How to access 802.1x network with non-802.11x device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1249" RevisionGUID="2496f301-6aad-4c08-aabe-e5ee2328753f" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:26:08.813" Comment="Proposed by 912 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1284" RevisionGUID="bc98e37c-aea5-42e1-8c7a-1ce00c1819e2" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:07:21.600" UserId="276" Text="I would suggest a Raspberry Pi. Install a console-only Debian (might need to customize post-install) and you're good to go. Supports USB, Wi-Fi, Ethernet and HDMI. Since you don't list server quality hardware as a requirement, the SoC would probably work well. Finally, it looks nothing like what most people would associate with a computer or tablet, more like a nondescript electronic device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1286" RevisionGUID="38e663d4-a4d3-411b-82de-5fd9a84fadef" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:16:30.983" UserId="476" Text="What I want is basically a USB Drive that registers itself as a storage device, and to the unsuspecting (in some cases) user, a keyboard. (I don't plan to do anything malicious, just trolling, and helping some people out who aren't that great at using computers quickly :^)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I know there already is the [USB Rubber Ducky][1], but I think that is too expensive. Are there any other alternatives that provide the same functionality, but cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hakshop.myshopify.com/products/usb-rubber-ducky-deluxe?variant=353378649" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1286" RevisionGUID="38e663d4-a4d3-411b-82de-5fd9a84fadef" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:16:30.983" UserId="476" Text="USB Rubber Ducky Alternative" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1286" RevisionGUID="38e663d4-a4d3-411b-82de-5fd9a84fadef" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:16:30.983" UserId="476" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1287" RevisionGUID="6895e10c-70dc-457d-ba61-26c84ed65a76" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:49:22.490" UserId="476" Text="Check this out: [LG Optimus Exceed 2](http://www.lg.com/us/cell-phones/lg-VS450PP-optimus-exceed-2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Android 4.4&#xD;&#xA;- 1.2Ghz Dual-core CPU&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB internal memory + microSD card slot&#xD;&#xA;- 4.5&quot; Screen, 800x400 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's prepaid, so not useful for calling, but it can be used for development." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1286" RevisionGUID="67b4fb5e-4b7f-475b-b7cc-e40db00f747e" CreationDate="2015-11-19T22:56:33.257" UserId="476" Comment="Added budgets" Text="What I want is basically a USB Drive that registers itself as a storage device, and to the unsuspecting (in some cases) user, a keyboard. (I don't plan to do anything malicious, just trolling, and helping some people out who aren't that great at using computers quickly :^)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I know there already is the [USB Rubber Ducky][1], but I think that is too expensive. Are there any other alternatives that provide the same functionality, but cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: &lt; $42&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferable Budget: &lt; $20&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hakshop.myshopify.com/products/usb-rubber-ducky-deluxe?variant=353378649" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1288" RevisionGUID="0d3e8bf3-8bb4-476d-8afc-b402dd6d95f4" CreationDate="2015-11-20T00:00:11.677" UserId="1012" Text="I am interested in using a mobile phone to acquire ultrasound audio through the audio jack. Specifically, this would require a sound card and ADC which are capable of frequencies of at least 40kHz, and sample rates of around 200kHz. &#xD;&#xA;These requirements obviously exceed anything that would be required for normal audio, but perhaps there are some phones that cater more toward the audiophile market? Any tips would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1288" RevisionGUID="0d3e8bf3-8bb4-476d-8afc-b402dd6d95f4" CreationDate="2015-11-20T00:00:11.677" UserId="1012" Text="Mobile phone with high sample rate (&gt;~ 200kHz) audio ADC acquisition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1288" RevisionGUID="0d3e8bf3-8bb4-476d-8afc-b402dd6d95f4" CreationDate="2015-11-20T00:00:11.677" UserId="1012" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1287" RevisionGUID="0726250b-869d-477a-9987-cf8a8b2c7004" CreationDate="2015-11-20T00:40:58.133" UserId="476" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="Check this out: [LG Optimus Exceed 2](http://www.lg.com/us/cell-phones/lg-VS450PP-optimus-exceed-2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Android 4.4&#xD;&#xA;- 1.2Ghz Dual-core CPU&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB internal memory + microSD card slot&#xD;&#xA;- 4.5&quot; Screen, 800x400 resolution&#xD;&#xA;- $20 free shipping on [BestBuy][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's prepaid, so not useful for calling, but it can be used for development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/verizon-wireless-prepaid-lg-optimus-exceed-2-no-contract-cell-phone-black/5941013.p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1279" RevisionGUID="78cd7af9-3ae7-4ad2-8b87-0aa1ef1a18fe" CreationDate="2015-11-20T02:14:14.533" UserId="-1" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="a0c64cd1-a88b-40c1-a297-a4e23c2d63f0" CreationDate="2015-11-20T05:37:12.633" UserId="1013" Text="What routers support per-device internet bandwidth usage monitoring? out of the box? (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not at all attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="a0c64cd1-a88b-40c1-a297-a4e23c2d63f0" CreationDate="2015-11-20T05:37:12.633" UserId="1013" Text="Home router that logs per-device internet usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="a0c64cd1-a88b-40c1-a297-a4e23c2d63f0" CreationDate="2015-11-20T05:37:12.633" UserId="1013" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="5dc937d1-6c20-45c3-be8a-64346e9ee408" CreationDate="2015-11-20T08:20:41.137" UserId="987" Text="&#xD;&#xA;Here are 2 case that you may be able to use for a dubble powersupply. The Thermaltake Core X9 is a solid metal case ment for pc's with EATX support. it modulair and you can probebly fit a dual ATX PSU in. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC 4U-4310L is a server rack with support for a redunant powersupply. this als has hotswapports and is a 4u formfactor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are not the cheapes cases that there are in the marked. but i think that in these you can fit your pc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1258" RevisionGUID="07c9b7b7-b7b0-4aaf-a8bf-0b120fcdfd1d" CreationDate="2015-11-20T08:57:15.447" UserId="989" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1292" RevisionGUID="89b342e2-21cf-457a-a90b-02d4128d8840" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:38:22.633" UserId="248" Text="I'm building a new PC but I'm stuck at one thing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What CPU should I choose if what I do mostly is programming &amp; gaming?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw opinions here and there saying Intel's CPUs would be good, others saying AMDs, but none seemed to give me a clear answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2 options I would have are [Intel Skylake, Core i5 6400 2.70GHz][1] &amp; [AMD Vishera, FX-8350 4.0GHz][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm open to any other recommendations, preferably good price/value ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i5-6400%20%40%202.70GHz&amp;id=2578&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD%20FX-8350%20Eight-Core&amp;id=1780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1292" RevisionGUID="89b342e2-21cf-457a-a90b-02d4128d8840" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:38:22.633" UserId="248" Text="CPU recommendation: Programming + Gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1292" RevisionGUID="89b342e2-21cf-457a-a90b-02d4128d8840" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:38:22.633" UserId="248" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="7555cd81-f2fa-452a-a0b7-9d61560b48f6" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:47:16.467" UserId="737" Text="I'd recommend intel, they're really reliable, low power consumption and futureproof if you're into keeping your rig for more than 3-4years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD have a good performance/price ratio but are more risky, heat issues and useless cores for marketing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming just rely on a good GPU, CPU bottle neck is pretty much a myth if you have an i5 2500 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd get better performance with a 4th gen intel cpu and better gpu. keep thatin mind" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4606" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1295" RevisionGUID="92ba850a-bb39-4056-97c9-fc498ddaa808" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:11:33.857" UserId="476" Text="I know that everybody will recommend Intel, except me. However, sometimes Intel is not the best. The price/performance of an i5 6400 vs AMD FX-8350 (I'd recommend looking into the FX-8320E as well, because it is just as well binned as the 8350, but $40 cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FX-8350&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Overclockable&#xD;&#xA; - Nearly double performance, double cores&#xD;&#xA; - Higher base clock speed&#xD;&#xA; - ~$20 cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6400&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Higher IPC&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly higher single-core strength&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Game debate benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Passmark**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y2t5T.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/shDMb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="6a85da58-fbde-4b59-b3ab-9f472fa2dee0" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:17:29.187" UserId="737" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="I'd recommend intel, they're really reliable, low power consumption and futureproof if you're into keeping your rig for more than 3-4years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD have a good performance/price ratio but are more risky, heat issues and useless cores for marketing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/364/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-6400.html&#xD;&#xA;[![Half the power consumption][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming just rely on a good GPU, CPU bottle neck is pretty much a myth if you have an i5 2500 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd get better performance with a 4th gen intel cpu and better gpu. keep that in mind&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c6r3W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1295" RevisionGUID="05530f3a-86db-4a17-ac61-056bccafaf8b" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:19:50.073" UserId="476" Comment="added 376 characters in body" Text="I know that everybody will recommend Intel, except me. However, sometimes Intel is not the best. The price/performance of an i5 6400 vs AMD FX-8350 (I'd recommend looking into the FX-8320E as well, because it is just as well binned as the 8350, but $40 cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FX-8350&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Overclockable&#xD;&#xA; - Nearly double performance, double cores&#xD;&#xA; - Higher base clock speed&#xD;&#xA; - ~$20 cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6400&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Higher IPC&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly higher single-core strength&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler&#xD;&#xA; - Not based on a dead chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Game debate benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Witcher 3 (8350 on the left, i5 4460 on the right)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this is the 4460, not the 6400 (800Mhz clock difference), and you can also OC the 8350, and match it up with the 4460 quite nicely, meanwhile having 4 threads on deck for whatever, while with the i5, CPU is probably utilized all the time (all four threads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/shDMb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PUf7r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y2t5T.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="219c445f-6910-436b-a297-a817751266f1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T14:32:14.967" UserId="476" Comment="Removed ugly link, replaced with word &quot;benchmarks&quot; as a link" Text="I'd recommend intel, they're really reliable, low power consumption and futureproof if you're into keeping your rig for more than 3-4years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD have a good performance/price ratio but are more risky, heat issues and useless cores for marketing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Benchmarks](http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/364/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-6400.html)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;[![Half the power consumption][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming just rely on a good GPU, CPU bottle neck is pretty much a myth if you have an i5 2500 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd get better performance with a 4th gen intel cpu and better gpu. keep that in mind&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c6r3W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4612" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="219c445f-6910-436b-a297-a817751266f1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T14:32:14.967" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by 57, 214 edit id of 298" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1296" RevisionGUID="18445d8b-5a58-4080-bda9-715cc211498a" CreationDate="2015-11-20T15:37:07.433" UserId="1016" Text="I would say it would mainly depend on the type of programming you intend on doing. Gaming as a whole isn't CPU intensive so I would disregard that as an issue for the CPU as that will mainly depend on the GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Programming wise, if you plan to work on small self made projects again this wouldn't be an issue as you wouldn't be utilizing the full CPU. If however you were working on a large scale enterprise solution that you had to build and deploy on your local machine that is when a better CPU might come into play. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example, a large project ( 100+ projects) written in C# that relies on multiple instances of MSBuild to compile I would recommend an i7, simply for the fact that is has hyper-threading to allow more threads to be run in parallel. If however you were working on less large scale solutions I would go with an i5 as it has more than enough performance to handle most programming and gaming needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: For moderate gaming and programming there would be no noticeable difference performance wise between either CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1297" RevisionGUID="ab2b80cf-d37d-4939-a71c-b21160b0ae6c" CreationDate="2015-11-20T16:55:29.593" UserId="1017" Text="My opinion is to buy the Intel if you don't care too much about the money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an FX-8150, and I can tell you that the 4 additional cores are not worth it. I did a lot of programming and gaming, and the 8 core were indeed useless, 4 would have sufficed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, the AMD 8 cores are REALLY hot. The stock fan was noisy as hell, and I frequently hit 80°C (175°F), with only 1 core at full load (~15% overall). You will need an above average fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, if you want to buy something cheaper that the Intel, I think it would be better to buy an FX-4350, and not an FX-8350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Much cheaper&#xD;&#xA;- Less useless cores&#xD;&#xA;- A tiny bit higher stock frequency =&gt; Very slightly better single core performance.&#xD;&#xA;- Cooler =&gt; easier to overclock&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the same per-core cache, and the same 8MB L3 cache than the FX-8350. All the other features are the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it will perform better than the FX-8350 in a real situation, unless you really need 8 cores. The fact that it doesn't have an integrated GPU and use an older technology make it much cheaper than the Intel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="545c5626-56b7-46c2-af35-770d79db1b55" CreationDate="2015-11-20T17:01:05.847" UserId="1013" Comment="both wifi and LAN" Text="What routers support per-device internet bandwidth usage monitoring? out of the box? (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="a99004ff-2eb6-4a1b-a029-791e24ba4eb0" CreationDate="2015-11-20T17:09:34.580" UserId="1013" Comment="add expected number of clients" Text="What routers support per-device internet bandwidth usage monitoring? out of the box? (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Updates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added LAN ports, wifi&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added expected client load&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1297" RevisionGUID="482ca55c-6401-4413-ac39-ddf456469d1b" CreationDate="2015-11-20T17:10:36.617" UserId="1017" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="My opinion is to buy the Intel if you don't care too much about the money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an FX-8150, and I can tell you that the 4 additional cores are not worth it. I did a lot of programming and gaming, and the 8 core were indeed useless, 4 would have sufficed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, the AMD 8 cores are REALLY hot. The stock fan was noisy as hell, and I frequently hit 80°C (175°F), with only 1 core at full load (~15% overall). You will need an above average fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, if you want to buy something cheaper that the Intel, I think it would be better to buy an FX-4350, and not an FX-8350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Much cheaper&#xD;&#xA;- Less useless cores&#xD;&#xA;- A tiny bit higher stock frequency =&gt; Very slightly better single core performance.&#xD;&#xA;- Cooler =&gt; easier to overclock&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the same per-core cache, and the same 8MB L3 cache than the FX-8350. All the other features are the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it will perform better than the FX-8350 in a real situation, unless you really need 8 cores. The fact that it doesn't have an integrated GPU and use an older technology make it much cheaper than the Intel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also compromise with an FX-6350. With an FX-4350 or 6350, you can spend the extra money on a water-cooling, this will enable higher overclocking and certainly better performance than a 8350." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1298" RevisionGUID="7edcdb32-c3b5-4372-8ceb-bfbfd4200a7d" CreationDate="2015-11-20T18:01:04.717" UserId="1021" Text="I am looking for some sturdy (they will be travelling quite a lot) noise cancelling or at this price more likely noise isolating in-ear earphones. I will mostly be listening to classical music and voices, so bass is not as important to me as it may be to others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My research so far has brought me across the Sennheiser CX 175 however I have read a somewhat worrying number of reviews that mention less than perfect build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wanting to spend somewhere less than £50 ($75) and I would rather spend less for best quality per money than max out my budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1298" RevisionGUID="7edcdb32-c3b5-4372-8ceb-bfbfd4200a7d" CreationDate="2015-11-20T18:01:04.717" UserId="1021" Text="Sturdy noise cancelling/isolating earbuds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1298" RevisionGUID="7edcdb32-c3b5-4372-8ceb-bfbfd4200a7d" CreationDate="2015-11-20T18:01:04.717" UserId="1021" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1279" RevisionGUID="3c25bc76-c15d-417a-a78e-498b54dd6a02" CreationDate="2015-11-20T19:53:21.063" UserId="1005" Comment="clarification" Text="I have a need for a computer that I can code and test Node.js on, but is physically not capable of web browsing (an absolute requirement). It would be nice if it had internet capability (even through a gsm chip) so I can update software and test server applications.&#xA;&#xA;I figured there might be some configuration where the graphics processor is not capable of powering a gui. A second thought would be a monochrome LCD with large pixels so it is not practical for web browsing.&#xA;&#xA;The system should preferably be sealed and not look like a conventional laptop or tablet.&#xA;&#xA;If necessary I can build it (and I know I will probably need to), it just needs to fit the requirements.&#xA;&#xA;By the way, I don't care what the OS is, I just need it to run Node.js.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: Just to clarify, this is for use in an environment where internet browsing devices are not allowed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1301" RevisionGUID="f86c207e-2fd4-44d4-85b3-1c291fda5f04" CreationDate="2015-11-20T23:37:03.200" UserId="821" Text="My 5th pair of Apple Earbuds broke about a week ago and I'm done. (RIP 2012-2015). I'm looking for a good pair of headphones that will last me long. I'm not going to buy another pair of Earbuds, because I DID, and those were an even bigger pain in the butt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*MUST-HAVES*:  &#xD;&#xA;1. **PC and iPod4** I will be using both devices frequently and a pair of headphones without this support will not be considered.  &#xD;&#xA;2. **Microphone.** I am sick of using my iPod4 for skype calls and will need a microphone so I can get better call quality. Please, don't make a recommendation with a separate mike.  &#xD;&#xA;3. **Wired.** If it is not possible for the mobile devices to support one cable, then split microphone and audio are fine.  &#xD;&#xA;4. **Warranty.** This must come with AT LEAST a 30-day warranty. 1 YR would be ideal, but it think it may be far-fetched.  &#xD;&#xA;5. **Color.** Must be black with blue or black with red. I will allow black-with-X combos.   &#xD;&#xA;6. **Under $30.** The lower the better. If the headset only has the MUST-HAVES, then it should be under $25. However, don't cheap out; try to find a good model with ALL or most of the optional (but wanted) features. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*ADDITONALLY:*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **LED LIGHTS.** They don't have to be customizable, but that would be great.  &#xD;&#xA;2. **CONTROLLER.** A controller on the wire would be great fully appreciated. Should have `mute mike`,`mute audio`, and `louder` and `lower`. Mute mick is optional, rest must be if there is a controller.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1301" RevisionGUID="f86c207e-2fd4-44d4-85b3-1c291fda5f04" CreationDate="2015-11-20T23:37:03.200" UserId="821" Text="Looking for good headset for gaming/youtube/movies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4628" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1301" RevisionGUID="f86c207e-2fd4-44d4-85b3-1c291fda5f04" CreationDate="2015-11-20T23:37:03.200" UserId="821" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1295" RevisionGUID="d25eba17-1a16-4092-85cf-d4f0772e4f60" CreationDate="2015-11-21T01:04:47.873" UserId="476" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I know that everybody will recommend Intel, except me. However, sometimes Intel is not the best. The price/performance of an i5 6400 vs AMD FX-8350 (I'd recommend looking into the FX-8320E as well, because it is just as well binned as the 8350, but $40 cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FX-8350&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Overclockable&#xD;&#xA; - Nearly double performance, double cores&#xD;&#xA; - Higher base clock speed&#xD;&#xA; - ~$20 cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6400&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Higher IPC&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly higher single-core strength&#xD;&#xA; - Colder temperature&#xD;&#xA; - Not based on a dead chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Game debate benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Witcher 3 (8350 on the left, i5 4460 on the right)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this is the 4460, not the 6400 (800Mhz clock difference), and you can also OC the 8350, and match it up with the 4460 quite nicely, meanwhile having 4 threads on deck for whatever, while with the i5, CPU is probably utilized all the time (all four threads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/shDMb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PUf7r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y2t5T.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="15b1d553-f222-4566-89c6-3185035f7b50" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:52:38.603" UserId="476" Comment="Technically not benchmarks, my bad for putting that there" Text="I'd recommend intel, they're really reliable, low power consumption and futureproof if you're into keeping your rig for more than 3-4years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD have a good performance/price ratio but are more risky, heat issues and useless cores for marketing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pros/Cons](http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/364/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-6400.html)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;[![Half the power consumption][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming just rely on a good GPU, CPU bottle neck is pretty much a myth if you have an i5 2500 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd get better performance with a 4th gen intel cpu and better gpu. keep that in mind&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c6r3W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="15b1d553-f222-4566-89c6-3185035f7b50" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:52:38.603" Comment="Proposed by 476 approved by -1 edit id of 299" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1293" RevisionGUID="889b5ab1-b388-42de-aa9f-eaf6eb3701da" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:52:38.603" UserId="1" Comment="Technically not benchmarks, my bad for putting that there" Text="I'd recommend Intel, they're really reliable, have low power consumption and future-proof if you're into keeping your rig for more than 3-4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD has a good performance/price ratio, but are more risky, heat issues and useless cores for marketing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pros/Cons](http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/364/AMD_FX-Series_FX-8350_vs_Intel_Core_i5_i5-6400.html)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;[![Half the power consumption][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming just rely on a good GPU, the CPU bottle neck is pretty much a myth if you have an i5 2500 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd get better performance with a 4th gen Intel CPU and a better GPU. Keep that in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c6r3W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="8efac300-922c-4003-9760-6ca6b68c436a" CreationDate="2015-11-21T17:08:03.147" UserId="104" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="When I look at my laptop's screen I feel that my backbone is not straight. And, sometimes I feel neck pain. If I move down my chair (or put the laptop higher) then I have sore arms and shoulders. None of the following images make sense to me. Nobody puts the screen that much high, nor they move their eyes down to look at something on the screen. At the position that is claimed to be correct, you need to move your eyes till the end to see the windows bar. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would feel much comfortable if I had a chance to move the screen up just the half of the height of the screen in the picture below. So to say, there should be some distance between the keyboard and the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides being light-weight, laptops should have sliding hinges that allow users to move the screen up or down. I know that it would change the center of the gravity, but this problem can be solved with a simple trick by the designers. Maybe, there are some companies that are doing it already. I would really like to know the name of these companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides, with the developing technology (or it feels like that) a small projectors can be used instead of screens on laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9xFoI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GK3SA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Price range would be between 500 and 1000 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1304" RevisionGUID="4078c740-35a7-4ca4-b043-5f787e9e742a" CreationDate="2015-11-21T17:39:28.777" UserId="104" Text="After some google search, I have found a company which do something similar to what I need. I am not sure if I can find this product in my country. And I also doubt whether their are still in business because they website and products look like out-of-date. I am going to contact with them. Question is still current.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/FlyBook-Advanced-Laptop-Computer-A210914-77F21-511112/dp/B001JI6BP0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://en.flybook.pl/view/modele" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1305" RevisionGUID="259735a6-0fe6-467e-8f01-5e1ea8133790" CreationDate="2015-11-21T20:08:15.093" UserId="279" Text="Thank you all for the answers. In the end, I ended up going with the Audio-Technica ATH-M40x's. I was torn between that and the Sony 7506's, which were recommended to me by a sound engineer friend, and I had also had good experiences with in the past. They both meet all of my requirements without a noticeable difference in sound (or price), but the M40's have a replaceable cable, as well as being a little beefier." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1304" RevisionGUID="19058711-c52b-4f59-a880-a7d33df2f142" CreationDate="2015-11-21T20:15:51.290" UserId="104" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="After some google search, I have found a company which do something similar to what I need. I am not sure if I can find this product in my country. And I also doubt whether their are still in business because they website and products look like out-of-date. I am going to contact with them. Question is still current.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/FlyBook-Advanced-Laptop-Computer-A210914-77F21-511112/dp/B001JI6BP0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://en.flybook.pl/view/modele&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: If the links go dead keyword for the search is 'Flybook'. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1306" RevisionGUID="5b8ed950-1b8c-402b-9ca3-3dcaee26139f" CreationDate="2015-11-21T21:13:07.643" UserId="77" Text="I haven't used mumble, (always encrypted communication), before but presumably the incoming audio is available on the headphone socket, (otherwise how could you hear it?).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect there is a setting to broadcast your audio locally too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of effort on this about 5 years ago for a project I can't remember very now.  Anyway something like the following should work:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.startech.com/uk/AV/Converters/Video/usb-3-0-video-capture-device-hdmi-dvi-vga~USB3HDCAP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Seamless picture quality with USB 3.0 bandwidth enabling you to&#xD;&#xA;   capture 1080p video at 60fps&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Record from virtually any device, with support for HDMI, DVI, VGA,&#xD;&#xA;   and Component video input sources&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Supports 2-channel stereo audio (HDMI / RCA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used lots of startech products, their support is good and they are reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f3WA5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="20ef5f5b-205a-4937-941c-690944ab40a0" CreationDate="2015-11-21T22:48:42.930" UserId="951" Text="For the build &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what memory would you buy, and why? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specific problems I consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Currently sold processors support up to 2133 MT/s (or did I miss some model?), but (I guess) the faster dices work as well (with reduced speed), so maybe ex. 2666?&#xD;&#xA; - If I choose Kingston, should I go with furry or savage? I read, that savage is more overclocking friendly, but do not know what it means specifically.&#xD;&#xA; - I see the &quot;PC4-17000&quot; or &quot;PC3-17000&quot; often on dices sold, but on [wikipedia][1], the PC3-17000 is under DDR3 section? &#xD;&#xA; - What should be the upgrade scheme? Incremental (one 8GB dice per year, for most dice 'recycling') or batch (2*4GB, than 4*4GB, than 4*8 GB to gain maximum of dual chanel)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: The accepted answer is the best answer to &quot;what memory would you buy, and why?&quot;, but answers and comments relating to &quot;specific problems&quot; will be greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIMM#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="20ef5f5b-205a-4937-941c-690944ab40a0" CreationDate="2015-11-21T22:48:42.930" UserId="951" Text="DDR4 memory - which one to choose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="20ef5f5b-205a-4937-941c-690944ab40a0" CreationDate="2015-11-21T22:48:42.930" UserId="951" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="ca14096d-3022-46a6-9795-546540b183e6" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:02:47.150" UserId="951" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="For the build &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what memory would you buy, and why? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specific problems I consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Currently sold processors support up to 2133 MT/s (or did I miss some model?), but (I guess) the faster dices work as well (with reduced speed), so maybe ex. 2400 if it has better CAS latency and not much of a price difference?&#xD;&#xA; - If I choose Kingston, should I go with furry or savage? I read, that savage is more overclocking friendly, but do not know what it means specifically.&#xD;&#xA; - I see the &quot;PC4-17000&quot; or &quot;PC3-17000&quot; often on dices sold, but on [wikipedia][1], the PC3-17000 is under DDR3 section? &#xD;&#xA; - What should be the upgrade scheme? Incremental (one 8GB dice per year, for most dice 'recycling') or batch (2*4GB, than 4*4GB, than 4*8 GB to gain maximum of dual chanel)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: The accepted answer is the best answer to &quot;what memory would you buy, and why?&quot;, but answers and comments relating to &quot;specific problems&quot; will be greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIMM#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="e3e0a287-af80-4ed5-b08b-6cae82f676fb" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:38:56.693" UserId="756" Comment="added 645 characters in body" Text="This question might seem weird at first, but I *do* mean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__I want to buy a good IPS screen for my laptop.__  &#xD;&#xA;This is not about price or compatibility, but about **quality**.  &#xD;&#xA;I want to buy _just screen, **not** the whole laptop_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Long story short&#xD;&#xA;In (most) modern laptops, screen is connected to motherboard using **Embedded DisplayPort connector**. **As I understand** (and according to my experience), there are **no vendor-specific variations**, just a few standard variants (namely 20, 30 and 40-pin connectors). It is just a plain DisplayPort interface with cheaper/smaller connector and added pins for backlight and power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What it means is that as of today, laptop screen compatibility question boils down do &quot;Does it (physically) fit (including connector)?&quot;, which is easily answered for example by looking at photo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically, choosing laptop screen should be almost the same as choosing external monitor.  &#xD;&#xA;Except one thing.  &#xD;&#xA;I have seen nothing like *&quot;AUO b156han01.2 IPS panel review&quot;*. **Have you?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Solution I want&#xD;&#xA;I basically want a **general** suggestion on how to find LCD panel of specific size, with specific (e.g. 30-pin eDP) connector, that has desired qualities (e.g. brightness of at least 300 cd/m²) and does not have problems like obviously uneven backlight or wrong colors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution &quot;search for laptop and then buy original panel&quot; will not do, same way as searching for preassembled PC with everything included will not do if you only need a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Edit&#xD;&#xA;A few days later, I suspect that my question is pointless.  &#xD;&#xA;There is no such market as &quot;generic screens for laptops&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;You often can by a laptop without HDD or RAM, but without display? I guess no.  &#xD;&#xA;So, chosing a laptop and only buying screen might be the only solution for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's hope I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;###Edit2&#xD;&#xA;Now question is closed. I kind of suspected that less general questions are expected :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nevertheless, I might have found something:  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo Y50 has such a bad screen that very long forum threads appeared that are dedicated to replacing it, and these threads have quite a few useful links.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently do not have time to explore these links, but I got a general idea:  &#xD;&#xA;If you search for display panels in general (including LED matrices, text LCDs with serial interface, industrial displays, etc.), you *will* find some sites that offer laptop panels too and they will have quite some information on these panels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1308" RevisionGUID="0c210e80-5976-48cd-a425-94776070b24f" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:40:38.653" UserId="425" Text="I am looking for an external harddisk for backup my MacBook Pro (with Time Machine) and I saw there are already &quot;packed&quot; configurations (combos) like theses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.lacie.com/ch/de/products/mobile-storage/rugged-thunderbolt/&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-678&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.buffalotech.com/products/portable-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/ministation-thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=1240#Tab3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They all seems to be in Thunderbolt (Version 1) and I found nothing in Thunderbolt Version 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because with these combos I cannot really choose the harddisk inside (I tend to prefer the 7'200 rpm) and all the above seems to be in 5'400 (or unspecified) I am also interested for a harddisk case which have the same features (Sata 3Gb) and thunderbolt v.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found only this reference [Delock 42490](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/product/delock-42490-25-thunderbolt%E2%84%A2-sata-drive) but it seems to be in Thunderbolt v1 only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question I am asking : is there any Harddisk case (or combos) with Thunderbolt V2 interface?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionnaly can you recommends some alternatives by answering these questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Are USB3.0 or Thunderbolt V1 perfs enough for backuping the 500Gb with Time Machine&#xD;&#xA; - Is a  5'400 rpm haddisk fast enough (if I do not want to let my computer making the backup for the whole night)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1308" RevisionGUID="0c210e80-5976-48cd-a425-94776070b24f" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:40:38.653" UserId="425" Text="Harddisk with Thunderbolt V2 - Backup with Time Machine (OS X)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1308" RevisionGUID="0c210e80-5976-48cd-a425-94776070b24f" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:40:38.653" UserId="425" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1308" RevisionGUID="37bc243d-5b25-4fd2-ad18-a39e3e2e58f4" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:50:45.590" UserId="425" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an external harddisk for backup my MacBook Pro (with Time Machine) and I saw there are already &quot;packed&quot; configurations (combos) like theses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.lacie.com/ch/de/products/mobile-storage/rugged-thunderbolt/&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-678&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.buffalotech.com/products/portable-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/ministation-thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA; * http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=1240#Tab3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They all seems to be in Thunderbolt (Version 1) and I found nothing in Thunderbolt Version 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because with these combos I cannot really choose the harddisk inside (I tend to prefer the 7'200 rpm) and all the above seems to be in 5'400 (or unspecified) I am also interested for a harddisk case which have the same features (Sata 3Gb) and thunderbolt v.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where I live (Switzerland) I found only this reference [Delock 42490](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/product/delock-42490-25-thunderbolt%E2%84%A2-sata-drive) but it seems to be in Thunderbolt v1 only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question I am asking : is there any Harddisk case (or combos) with Thunderbolt V2 interface?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionnaly can you recommends some alternatives by answering these questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Are USB3.0 or Thunderbolt V1 perfs enough for backuping the 500Gb with Time Machine&#xD;&#xA; - Is a  5'400 rpm haddisk fast enough (if I do not want to let my computer making the backup for the whole night)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1160" RevisionGUID="0cb165c5-9270-46f2-93e7-454037469484" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:05:53.623" UserId="39" Comment="corrected spelling" Text="First of all, I would make sure that you aren't circumventing any policies by using hardware rather than software, but I'll assume that the powers that be simply don't want you installing things on those laptops.  &#xD;&#xA;It sounds like you are looking for an **IP KVM** or KVM over IP.  The cost of such hardware may be more than you are hoping, but I think these available options are worth mentioning anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you have to pay so much for two of the below-mentioned &quot;Lantronix Spiders&quot;, I will start with an 8-port option such as **[TRIPP LITE 8-Port Steel Rackmount IP KVM Switch with On-Screen Display (B022-U08-IP)](http://www.amazon.com/8-Port-Rackmount-On-Screen-Display-B022-U08-IP/dp/B00CWUHZQI)**, which is currently just over $600 at Amazon.  It comes with cables to connect **two devices**, and, unlike some other 8-port products, the IP capabilities are built in, so you don't have to buy two pieces of hardware.  On similar products, I have found that the software leaves a little to be desired, but it gets the job done.  Like the Lantronix, this device is transparent to the machine you connect it to, so there is no need to install software there.  I would recommend this device above the Lantronix if you have the space and cash because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It remotely supports resolutions up to 1600 x 1200&#xD;&#xA;* You can add more devices if needed [(extra cables are usually available for ~$12 each new)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-B020-U08-B022-U16-P778-006/dp/B002OHDGCQ/)&#xD;&#xA;* Included cables are 6ft long, so you may be able to hide the 1U device under a desk.&#xD;&#xA;* Although you may never use this, the device can also be used as a local KVM switch (supporting up to 2048 x 1536).&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;code&gt;speculation:&lt;/code&gt;This box may still have *some* resell value in a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One caveat for this device (or any other KVM that functions this way) is that, since you are accessing a laptop, you will need VGA out on the laptop, and you will probably want to close the lid or set the laptop to mirror or exclusively use the external &quot;VGA monitor&quot; (the KVM switch) in order to make this work properly.  Otherwise, you won't see everything the laptop is displaying, if you see anything at all.  With any of the options I am recommending, you must connect the network port to the network, not the laptop.  Additionally, in order to access any of these devices from outside of the local network, you will need either a VPN or port forwarding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your purposes, I would also recommend you consider something like the **[Lantronix Spider SLS200USB0-01](http://store.lantronix.com/product_p/SLS200USB0-01.htm)**, currently available at [Newegg for USD278.99](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817490003).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* This device is transparent to the machine you connect it to, so there is no need to install software there.&#xD;&#xA;* It has a built in two-port switch, so you can daisy-chain two of these together with only one network drop&#xD;&#xA;* Only supports resolutions of up to 1280 x 1024&#xD;&#xA;* Less expensive than some other options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same display/VGA and networking caveats apply to this device, though, because there is a 2-port switch built in, if you only have one network drop in the room, you can plug it into this device and pass through to another device if needed.  Also, since you have two laptops you need to reach, **you will need two of these**.  I should also mention that I have not personally used this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since other options are pricy, I think it is worth mentioning that my first instinct was to recommend the **StarTech.com IPUSB2VGA**&#xD;&#xA;[(StarTech Product Page)](http://www.startech.com/AV/Extenders/VGA/Ethernet-to-VGA-over-IP-Converter~IPUSB2VGA).&#xD;&#xA;As of this writing, it is available on [Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-IPUSB2VGA-Ethernet-over-Converter/dp/B004C3Y07U) for $117.93; the MSRP is USD181.99. While my experiences with StarTech products have been good, and the price for this device is not bad, **I can't recommend** this to *you* because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* This device seems to **require software** to function properly, so it may not fit your purpose for that reason, depending upon the specifics of the policies you are dealing with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Due to limitations in the client software, you **cannot access this device from another subnet**, which means it won't work for you if you need to access it from the Internet (though it might be possible through a VPN, depending upon the configuration).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, this device might be attractive in certain cases because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;* It acts as a video and audio adapter and doesn't require VGA out.&#xD;&#xA;* Supports up to 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not personally used this particular device, but it will send your USB, video, and audio signals over the network, allowing you to access them from a remote PC.  I would recommend using a gigabit connection for best results, though this won't matter as much if you can get it to work over WAN (through the Internet, probably using a VPN)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1310" RevisionGUID="79c84e34-5a82-4778-a610-e3073047d795" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:02:47.293" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a device that would allow me to connect one laptop to two Ethernet cables. Each Ethernet cable has a distinct public IP and 100 Mbits symmetrical bandwidth. The goal of this link aggregation is to increase download/upload speed. The laptop has only one Ethernet port. I am not sure what the best solution is between adding another Ethernet port (e.g. with an Ethernet &lt;-&gt; USB adapter) and trying to configure the operating system to use both Ethernet cables simultaneously (Windows 7 SP1 x64 Ultimate and Kubuntu 14.04 LTS x64), or having an external device that takes care of link aggregation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1310" RevisionGUID="79c84e34-5a82-4778-a610-e3073047d795" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:02:47.293" UserId="40" Text="Connect one computer to two Ethernet cables" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1310" RevisionGUID="79c84e34-5a82-4778-a610-e3073047d795" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:02:47.293" UserId="40" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1244" RevisionGUID="97c2e355-ba23-4a54-a6cd-0c8ed37938b6" CreationDate="2015-11-22T14:22:16.330" UserId="476" Comment="Added budget, corrected a few minor spelling errors." Text="I am looking to buy a new GPU for a half gaming half graphics design system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-4790 CPU&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 750 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 500 Watt PSU&#xD;&#xA; - 2x 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Design Software in Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustrator&#xD;&#xA; - Sony Vegas Home Edition&#xD;&#xA; - AutoDesk Inventor 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget: $250**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a slightly more powerful GPU (one for both rendering and gaming at 1080p 60fps), however I would like something relatively cheap (it would be even better if I do not have to upgrade the PSU). I was looking at the GTX 950 and GTX 960, however I am not sure which one is superior for the price to performance ratio. I would like to stay away from AMD GPUs because they would require me to purchase a new PSU. The main question is, am I overlooking a better video card for my needs? Or would one suggest the GTX 950 or the GTX 960?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="6b95b61d-37c6-4733-85e4-b7ea5968b03e" CreationDate="2015-11-22T16:37:55.053" UserId="1043" Text="My specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;	Windows 10 Pro 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**&#xD;&#xA;	Intel Core i5 2320 @ 3.00GHz	&#xD;&#xA;	Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM**&#xD;&#xA;	4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;	Dell Inc. 0GDG8Y (CPU 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;	Acer S191HQL (1366x768@60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;	1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (Unknown)	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-753CA1 ATA Device (SATA)	&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Samsung M3 Portable USB Device (USB (SATA))	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drives**&#xD;&#xA;	HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH70N ATA Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Audio**&#xD;&#xA;	AMD High Definition Audio Device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="6b95b61d-37c6-4733-85e4-b7ea5968b03e" CreationDate="2015-11-22T16:37:55.053" UserId="1043" Text="What do I need to upgrade to get higher FPS in games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="6b95b61d-37c6-4733-85e4-b7ea5968b03e" CreationDate="2015-11-22T16:37:55.053" UserId="1043" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4684" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="d6af2f2a-02f9-402e-8347-38536f8f3cd0" CreationDate="2015-11-22T17:04:33.170" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4685" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="9b224c68-9f16-4b34-bddc-6335fba39f37" CreationDate="2015-11-22T17:52:18.480" UserId="1043" Comment="added 950 characters in body" Text="I would like to achieve 30 FPS on high on games like Kerbal Space Program, Euro truck simulator 2 Spintires and Cities: Skylines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I achieve between 15 and 20 FPS in Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics with shadows turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spintires is about the same as ETS2 on similar settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also got between 9 and 11 FPS on the Racecraft Techdemo on 40% graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of my drivers are up up date, however My PC is full of dust and have just ordered some Compressed air to clean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;	Windows 10 Pro 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**&#xD;&#xA;	Intel Core i5 2320 @ 3.00GHz	&#xD;&#xA;	Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM**&#xD;&#xA;	4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;	Dell Inc. 0GDG8Y (CPU 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;	Acer S191HQL (1366x768@60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;	1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (Unknown)	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-753CA1 ATA Device (SATA)	&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Samsung M3 Portable USB Device (USB (SATA))	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drives**&#xD;&#xA;	HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH70N ATA Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Audio**&#xD;&#xA;	AMD High Definition Audio Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I benchmarked my PC with NovaBench and these were the results:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4079 MB System RAM (Score: 149)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM Speed: 11018 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Tests (Score: 436)&#xD;&#xA;- Floating Point Operations/Second: 102394996&#xD;&#xA;- Integer Operations/Second: 373006004&#xD;&#xA;- MD5 Hashes Generated/Second: 1045838&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Tests (Score: 63)&#xD;&#xA;- 3D Frames Per Second: 204&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware Tests (Score: 30)&#xD;&#xA;- Primary Partition Capacity: 450 GB&#xD;&#xA;- Drive Write Speed: 68 MB/s " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="45fb5967-2c6d-4d65-bd80-c7268ec07ef8" CreationDate="2015-11-22T17:58:10.217" UserId="1043" Comment="added 950 characters in body" Text="Should I add more RAM or get a new graphics card to get higher FPS in games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1295" RevisionGUID="7a961e04-0ab8-4b6d-bb92-44b1ead5edcd" CreationDate="2015-11-22T18:59:05.403" UserId="476" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="I know that everybody will recommend Intel, except me. However, sometimes Intel is not the best. The price/performance of an i5 6400 vs AMD FX-8350 (I'd recommend looking into the FX-8320E as well, because it is just as well binned as the 8350, but $40 cheaper) is that the FX-8350 is winning, in my opinion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FX-8350&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Overclockable&#xD;&#xA; - Nearly double performance, double cores&#xD;&#xA; - Higher base clock speed&#xD;&#xA; - ~$20 cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6400&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Higher IPC&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly higher single-core strength&#xD;&#xA; - Colder temperature&#xD;&#xA; - Not based on a dead chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Game debate benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Witcher 3 (8350 on the left, i5 4460 on the right)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this is the 4460, not the 6400 (800Mhz clock difference), and you can also OC the 8350, and match it up with the 4460 quite nicely, meanwhile having 4 threads on deck for whatever, while with the i5, CPU is probably utilized all the time (all four threads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/shDMb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PUf7r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y2t5T.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="0abe2909-8b9b-44bb-8944-b7fa5120e81a" CreationDate="2015-11-22T19:03:20.917" UserId="1043" Comment="added 134 characters in body; edited title" Text="**When running Euro Truck Simulator 2 on Medium graphics my CPU was at about 20%, my RAM was at about 60% and my GPU was at 100%**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to achieve 30 FPS on high on games like Kerbal Space Program, Euro truck simulator 2 Spintires and Cities: Skylines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I achieve between 15 and 20 FPS in Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics with shadows turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spintires is about the same as ETS2 on similar settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also got between 9 and 11 FPS on the Racecraft Techdemo on 40% graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of my drivers are up up date, however My PC is full of dust and have just ordered some Compressed air to clean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;	Windows 10 Pro 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**&#xD;&#xA;	Intel Core i5 2320 @ 3.00GHz	&#xD;&#xA;	Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM**&#xD;&#xA;	4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;	Dell Inc. 0GDG8Y (CPU 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;	Acer S191HQL (1366x768@60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;	1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (Unknown)	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-753CA1 ATA Device (SATA)	&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Samsung M3 Portable USB Device (USB (SATA))	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drives**&#xD;&#xA;	HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH70N ATA Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Audio**&#xD;&#xA;	AMD High Definition Audio Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I benchmarked my PC with NovaBench and these were the results:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4079 MB System RAM (Score: 149)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM Speed: 11018 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Tests (Score: 436)&#xD;&#xA;- Floating Point Operations/Second: 102394996&#xD;&#xA;- Integer Operations/Second: 373006004&#xD;&#xA;- MD5 Hashes Generated/Second: 1045838&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Tests (Score: 63)&#xD;&#xA;- 3D Frames Per Second: 204&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware Tests (Score: 30)&#xD;&#xA;- Primary Partition Capacity: 450 GB&#xD;&#xA;- Drive Write Speed: 68 MB/s " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4689" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="0abe2909-8b9b-44bb-8944-b7fa5120e81a" CreationDate="2015-11-22T19:03:20.917" UserId="1043" Comment="added 134 characters in body; edited title" Text="What GPU should I buy for my current setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="0abe2909-8b9b-44bb-8944-b7fa5120e81a" CreationDate="2015-11-22T19:03:20.917" UserId="1043" Comment="added 134 characters in body; edited title" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="1ecd0df4-6767-4102-b3c0-0768ab26198e" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:39:31.767" UserId="8" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="When running Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics settings my CPU was at about 20%, my RAM was at about 60% and my GPU was at 100%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to achieve 30 FPS on high on games like Kerbal Space Program, Euro Truck Simulator 2, Spintires and Cities: Skylines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I achieve between 15 and 20 FPS in Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics with shadows turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spintires is about the same as ETS2 on similar settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also got between 9 and 11 FPS on the Racecraft Techdemo on 40% graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of my drivers are up up date, however my PC is full of dust and I have just ordered some compressed air to clean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;	Windows 10 Pro 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU**&#xD;&#xA;	Intel Core i5 2320 @ 3.00GHz	&#xD;&#xA;	Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM**&#xD;&#xA;	4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;	Dell Inc. 0GDG8Y (CPU 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;	Acer S191HQL (1366x768@60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;	1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (Unknown)	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Storage**&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-753CA1 ATA Device (SATA)	&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Samsung M3 Portable USB Device (USB (SATA))	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Optical Drives**&#xD;&#xA;	HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH70N ATA Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Audio**&#xD;&#xA;	AMD High Definition Audio Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I benchmarked my PC with NovaBench and these were the results:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4079 MB System RAM (Score: 149)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM Speed: 11018 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Tests (Score: 436)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Floating Point Operations/Second: 102394996&#xD;&#xA;- Integer Operations/Second: 373006004&#xD;&#xA;- MD5 Hashes Generated/Second: 1045838&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Tests (Score: 63)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3D Frames Per Second: 204&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware Tests (Score: 30)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Primary Partition Capacity: 450 GB&#xD;&#xA;- Drive Write Speed: 68 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What GPU should I buy that's compatible with these specifications, that will allow me to run said games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="ae45653e-b907-4ac9-a0e2-ebc165aabe34" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:47:11.297" UserId="1043" Comment="Added Budget" Text="When running Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics settings my CPU was at about 20%, my RAM was at about 60% and my GPU was at 100%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to achieve 30 FPS on high on games like Kerbal Space Program, Euro Truck Simulator 2, Spintires and Cities: Skylines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I achieve between 15 and 20 FPS in Euro Truck Simulator 2 on medium graphics with shadows turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spintires is about the same as ETS2 on similar settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also got between 9 and 11 FPS on the Racecraft Techdemo on 40% graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of my drivers are up up date, however my PC is full of dust and I have just ordered some compressed air to clean it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;	Windows 10 Pro 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU**&#xD;&#xA;	Intel Core i5 2320 @ 3.00GHz	&#xD;&#xA;	Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM**&#xD;&#xA;	4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;	Dell Inc. 0GDG8Y (CPU 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;	Acer S191HQL (1366x768@60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;	1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6450 (Unknown)	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Storage**&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-753CA1 ATA Device (SATA)	&#xD;&#xA;	465GB Samsung M3 Portable USB Device (USB (SATA))	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Optical Drives**&#xD;&#xA;	HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH70N ATA Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Audio**&#xD;&#xA;	AMD High Definition Audio Device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I benchmarked my PC with NovaBench and these were the results:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4079 MB System RAM (Score: 149)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM Speed: 11018 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Tests (Score: 436)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Floating Point Operations/Second: 102394996&#xD;&#xA;- Integer Operations/Second: 373006004&#xD;&#xA;- MD5 Hashes Generated/Second: 1045838&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Tests (Score: 63)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3D Frames Per Second: 204&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware Tests (Score: 30)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Primary Partition Capacity: 450 GB&#xD;&#xA;- Drive Write Speed: 68 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What GPU should I buy that's compatible with these specifications, that will allow me to run said games?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am on a quite a tight budget and can only spend around £100 ($150 USD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1315" RevisionGUID="71fe0d7c-25e2-44b4-99a7-e5baaca344cc" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:49:01.177" UserId="790" Text="We are putting togeter an e-sports team at college and among the games we play there's Project M on the Wii and Melee on the gamecube, so we need a CVBS/RCA video capture card to record and upload our gameplay, so far we have tried with an Encore and a GreenLeaf video capture card without any sucess, and we were unable to find any decent USB/PCi/PCIe capture cards that support this kind of input. What is a good hardware choice for this? Is it compatible with linux? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1315" RevisionGUID="71fe0d7c-25e2-44b4-99a7-e5baaca344cc" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:49:01.177" UserId="790" Text="What's a good RCA capture card for streaming media?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1315" RevisionGUID="71fe0d7c-25e2-44b4-99a7-e5baaca344cc" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:49:01.177" UserId="790" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4702" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1313" RevisionGUID="1813e308-2bb2-4851-8f72-7b7cf6c8d7ae" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:49:30.527" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1315" RevisionGUID="540b4d75-d834-48b9-9a2e-dadf4606adb8" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:50:40.237" UserId="8" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="We are putting together an e-sports team at college and among the games we play there's Project M on the Wii and Melee on the gamecube, so we need a CVBS/RCA video capture card to record and upload our gameplay. So far we have tried with an Encore and a GreenLeaf video capture card without any success, and we were unable to find any decent USB/PCi/PCIe capture cards that support this kind of input. What is a good hardware choice for this? Is it compatible with Linux? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1316" RevisionGUID="4d008fec-c91e-4d2d-ab81-36c1adccd821" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:10:29.583" UserId="912" Text="A GTX 750 or a GTX 750 ti would suit your needs. Buying a GPU better then the 750 ti would make your CPU a bottleneck and anything lower than a 750 wouldn't satisfy your needs. Try to get a 750 ti if its within your budget (should be), if not, get a GTX 750. The 750 ti would be good enough to run modern games at low settings and less demanding games at medium or high settings. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1317" RevisionGUID="be324fa7-bfc7-4923-bbe9-34a87d790f30" CreationDate="2015-11-22T23:24:35.273" UserId="912" Text="Since your laptop doesn't natively support link aggregation, you will either have to use software to combine two connections together, or use a external piece of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To do this in software, you will need to use the onboard LAN and another LAN port (such as a USB to LAN adapter) and then aggregate it together. The advantage of this is that it's cheap but the downsides are many. First of all, this will take a toll on your CPU to do this because your CPU isn't specifically designed to do tasks like this and will use a lot of resources. Secondly, using software link aggregation could be buggy and cause crashes which means downtime from the internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A much better solution is to use a external piece of hardware, specifically, a switch that supports link aggregation. You would this connect this switch to your gigabit connection so it would seem like one connection to your computer, but in reality its two. This solves all the downsides of software based aggregation. This has no toll on the CPU and it is very stable. The only downside would be that it isn't very cheap (at least USD$100) to buy a switch with link aggregation. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="7bc8362a-7c25-46bd-baa2-d093b8715949" CreationDate="2015-11-23T04:59:12.030" UserId="1013" Comment=" added end goal: equitable distribution of consumption cost" Text="What routers support per-device internet bandwidth usage monitoring? out of the box? (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have a monthly quota that we're constantly in danger of exceeding, and it's very expensive when to go over quota. There are 4 people in the house and three times as many devices, plus guests and their devices. We need to know which people and which devices are causing the most consumption, so we can then determine what to do about it. (Exile offending devices or the offending behaviour-on-device, and/or more equitably split the cost.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Updates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added LAN ports, wifi&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added expected client load&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-22: added end goal: equitable distribution of consumption cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1320" RevisionGUID="9fad0801-026c-471c-beda-3aa07f8cad0e" CreationDate="2015-11-23T08:40:48.693" UserId="203" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for light school work (light web browsing up to 20 tabs, word processing, rare photoshop, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8 GB of RAM, upgradability if possible&#xD;&#xA; - At least 1 TB of storage, 64 GB if SSD&#xD;&#xA; - At least 6 hours of battery life while web browsing, with 8 hours being preferable&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11n WiFi, either 2.4 GHz or both 2.4 and 5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual storage (SSD + HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Preinstalled OS (Windows or Linux) with no Secure Boot&#xD;&#xA; - An ODD&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - GT3 graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Screen &gt;15&quot; and full HD resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newer the CPU is, the better. If it is not possible to find such a laptop within the budget I am willing to extend it up to 1400 AUD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1320" RevisionGUID="9fad0801-026c-471c-beda-3aa07f8cad0e" CreationDate="2015-11-23T08:40:48.693" UserId="203" Text="Laptop for school under 1200 AUD (incl. shipping and tax)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1320" RevisionGUID="9fad0801-026c-471c-beda-3aa07f8cad0e" CreationDate="2015-11-23T08:40:48.693" UserId="203" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4718" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1320" RevisionGUID="d08ef423-586d-4676-a012-151ebba8183c" CreationDate="2015-11-23T10:27:27.663" UserId="203" Comment="Added requirements" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for light school work (light web browsing up to 20 tabs, word processing, rare photoshop, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8 GB of RAM, upgradability if possible&#xD;&#xA; - At least 1 TB of storage, 64 GB if SSD (**edit:** 128 GB SSD is preferable to either)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 6 hours of battery life while web browsing (**edit:** brightness should be visible outside without direct sunlight), with 8 hours being preferable&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11n WiFi, either 2.4 GHz or both 2.4 and 5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual storage (SSD + HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Preinstalled OS (Windows or Linux) with no Secure Boot&#xD;&#xA; - An ODD&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - GT3 graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Screen &gt;15&quot; and full HD resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Should be portable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newer the CPU is, the better. If it is not possible to find such a laptop within the budget I am willing to extend it up to 1400 AUD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1321" RevisionGUID="457f50c7-5816-45d7-9531-302ddd914c49" CreationDate="2015-11-23T11:44:04.803" UserId="476" Text="[Dell Inspiron 15 5000](http://www.dell.com/au/p/inspiron-15-5558-laptop/pd?oc=y510451au&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5558-laptop)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Price: 1200 AUD w/o discounts -&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Score: 85.7% (B+)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 5400RPM HDD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 5500U **++**&#xD;&#xA; - Geforce 920M 4GB DDR3 **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 15&quot; **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen in 768p **-**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **++**&#xD;&#xA; - 100Mpbs RJ45 Ethernet Port **+**&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;7 hours of battery life&quot; -*Dell* **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 0.94 inches thick (IMO, that's portable) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Disk Drive **+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1316" RevisionGUID="deacfaf6-3994-4295-ba5a-ba7df167d7f9" CreationDate="2015-11-23T11:49:40.740" UserId="476" Comment="Capitalized the 'Ti's, minor grammatical fixing, appended 'GTX' to the beginning of every model number." Text="A GTX 750 or a GTX 750 Ti would suit your needs. Buying a GPU better then the GTX 750 Ti would make your CPU a bottleneck and anything lower than a GTX 750 wouldn't satisfy your needs. Try to get a GTX 750 Ti if it's within your budget (it should be), if not, get a GTX 750. The GTX 750 ti would be good enough to run modern games at low settings and less demanding games at medium or high settings. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1324" RevisionGUID="5352e498-e1be-473d-8721-8007531ba0a0" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:33:04.013" UserId="743" Text="Background: I am looking to upgrade our home's laptop and would like the next one to have an SSD. Due to the prices of SSDs, I don't expect to store all of our pictures and movies on the internal drive, so ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main mission:&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for network-accessible storage to be used as the primary home for our family's electronic pictures and music. I am also going to be getting an external (USB) drive to create backup copies of these files, so this NAS device does not *need* redundancy (either locally with RAID or via the Cloud). Our current combined file usage is ~245 Gb, but I would like to plan on a few years of growth. I don't need the cheapest solution, but I'm not looking to spend more than I need to (see: new laptop and external drive). Current WiFi is 802.11n but expect to move to 802.11ac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- visible on the network (it can plug in to the WiFi router to become present on the network; it does not need to provide its own WiFi) -- provides a mappable share for Windows&#xD;&#xA;- at least 500 Gb capacity (provided by the supporting hard drives, obviously)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supports (or comes with) SSDs -- to help with power consumption and wear&#xD;&#xA;- low-power (as I envision this thing being on 24x7)&#xD;&#xA;- simple to manage (I work with computers enough already during the day)&#xD;&#xA;- reliable (who doesn't want it to be?)&#xD;&#xA;- expandable capacity (e.g. two bays, with only one populated initially) - to allow for easy online growth&#xD;&#xA;- not be a bottleneck (given that we're transferring over WiFi, I don't expect this to be an issue)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No-need-fors:&#xD;&#xA;----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- printer sharing&#xD;&#xA;- streaming&#xD;&#xA;- 3rd-party copying/backup software (I have my own solution based on rsync)&#xD;&#xA;- virtualization support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Solutions that I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RPi + FreeNAS: I'm more _capable_ than _willing_ to DIY this project; the cost savings aren't enough for me at this point. This idea wins &quot;points&quot; on being naturally lower in power consumption, though.&#xD;&#xA;- [Synology](https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Drobo](http://www.drobo.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Netgear](http://www.netgear.com/home/products/connected-storage/readynas.aspx#tab-overview)&#xD;&#xA;- [Intel NUC](http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/nuc/overview.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a related question --  http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-options-are-available-for-cheap-nas-devices-that-allows-to-put-two-hard-dri -- and have slightly different requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need encryption (storing pictures and music)&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need RAID-1 (though not opposed to the feature)&#xD;&#xA;- it doesn't need to be the cheapest option&#xD;&#xA;- I have no need for cloud-based installation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common elements to the previous question are only: reliability and energy-efficiency. JohnB's excellent answer to that question is a [QNAP TS-231](https://www.qnap.com/i/useng/product/model.php?II=155). From what I see, it would meet my main requirements, but I'm curious if there are any other good solutions for my set of requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1324" RevisionGUID="5352e498-e1be-473d-8721-8007531ba0a0" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:33:04.013" UserId="743" Text="Looking for a desktop NAS to be the primary storage for pictures and music" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1324" RevisionGUID="5352e498-e1be-473d-8721-8007531ba0a0" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:33:04.013" UserId="743" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="264" RevisionGUID="b513f9cf-7f49-478f-8b0f-a85ca204c952" CreationDate="2015-11-23T20:55:50.403" UserId="476" Comment="Removed ugly link, placed inside of quote" Text="**E-ink is a solution for your #1 and #2.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I can recommend Kindle. I have been using my ebook reader for 3 years and it made a big relief for my eyes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my case it is Kindle Keyboard but version with touchscreen display is available on the market:&#xD;&#xA;[Kindle, 6&quot; Glare-Free Touchscreen Display][1] for £59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[All-New Kindle Paperwhite, 6&quot; with Built-in Light][2] for £109.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  You don't have to care that much about storage because popular formats like epub or mobi are really lightweight. 4 GB makes you able to hold thousands of books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life (from amazon):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A single charge lasts up to four weeks, based on half an hour of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading per day with wireless off. Battery life will vary based on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wireless usage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This description has much in common with reality. **E-ink display consumes power only when changing pages**. This is the main difference in comparison to LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kindle-Glare-Free-Touchscreen-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00KDRUCJY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-New-Kindle-Paperwhite-Resolution-Display/dp/B00QJDO0QC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Goodreads integration is possible (Amazon bought this company):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Goodreads on Kindle lets you connect with the Goodreads community,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; follow friends and see what they are reading, and share and rate books&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on your Kindle. You can also shop for Kindle books and purchase&#xD;&#xA;&gt; selected titles directly within Goodreads. Help for Kindle Voyage (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), Kindle Paperwhite (7th Generation), Kindle (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), and Kindle Paperwhite (6th Generation). *[-Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201734030)*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1321" RevisionGUID="e841b841-e8e5-433e-b138-53c13bff072a" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:00:35.937" UserId="476" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="[Dell Inspiron 15 5000](http://www.dell.com/au/p/inspiron-15-5558-laptop/pd?oc=y510451au&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5558-laptop)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Price: 1200 AUD w/o discounts -&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Score: 85.7% (B+)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 5400RPM HDD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 5500U **++**&#xD;&#xA; - Geforce 920M 4GB DDR3 **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 15.6&quot; **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 768p **-**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **++**&#xD;&#xA; - 100Mpbs RJ45 Ethernet Port **+**&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;7 hours of battery life&quot; -*Dell* **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 0.94 inches thick (IMO, that's portable) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Disk Drive **+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1327" RevisionGUID="498b94a8-269a-4e3e-853a-f7335853dedf" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:38:37.933" UserId="912" Text="Even though you don't want/need RAID, you might want [JBOD][1] (just a bunch of disks). This technology allows multiple hard drives to act as one huge hard drive, which would be good for things that use up large capacities. You can buy any NAS server products from QNAP, WD, Netgear, Synology, etc. but these usually cost $200+ and they would work fine. If you were tighter budget (me last year) you could buy what I got, the [Shuttle Omninas KD20][2]. It has many of the features the $200+ NAS servers has and has great quality. I bought that NAS server for $80 (which is pretty cheap).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the Intel NUC isn't great since it isn't cheap, uses more power and doesn't support 24/7 uptime. The RPi doesn't have SATA which means you have to use USB hard drives, these hard drives are more expensive, lower quality and slower than the 2.5&quot;/3.5&quot; counterparts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-RAID_drive_architectures#JBOD&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://global.shuttle.com/news/productsDetail?productId=1629" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1308" RevisionGUID="1627e916-59c5-4150-b0a6-3b84c9ebb7ac" CreationDate="2015-11-23T22:23:13.673" UserId="476" Comment="Fixed typos, fixed ugly links, major grammatical corrections, replaced abbreviations with more understandable words." Text="I am looking for an external harddisk for backup my MacBook Pro (with Time Machine) and I saw there are already &quot;packed&quot; configurations (combos) like theses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * [**LaCie Rugged** Thunderbolt](http://www.lacie.com/ch/de/products/mobile-storage/rugged-thunderbolt/)&#xD;&#xA; * [**Transcend** StoreJet 300 portable storage for Mac](http://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-678)&#xD;&#xA; * [**Buffalo** MiniStation™ Thunderbolt](http://www.buffalotech.com/products/portable-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/ministation-thunderbolt)&#xD;&#xA; * [**WD** PassPort Pro](http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=1240#Tab3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They all seems to be in Thunderbolt Version 1, and I found nothing that was Thunderbolt Version 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because with these combos I cannot really choose the hard drive inside (I tend to prefer the 7200 rpm) and all the above seems to be in 5400 (or unspecified) I am also interested for a hard drive case which has the same features (SATA 3Gb) and Thunderbolt V2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where I live (Switzerland) I found only this reference [**Delock** 42490](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/product/delock-42490-25-thunderbolt%E2%84%A2-sata-drive) but it seems to be in Thunderbolt V1 only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question I am asking : is there any hard drive case (or combos) with Thunderbolt V2 interface?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionally can you recommends some alternatives by answering these questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is USB 3.0 or Thunderbolt V1 performance enough for backing up 500GB with Time Machine?&#xD;&#xA; - Is a  5400 rpm hard drive fast enough (if I do not want to let my computer making the backup for the whole night)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1330" RevisionGUID="6b5c5798-9c19-4e5a-92e2-dd7808816ae4" CreationDate="2015-11-24T04:43:35.147" UserId="1058" Text="This is my first question in this website. I have a Lenovo PC with integrated smart card reader keyboard (single USB cable), and a MacBook Pro. I would like to switch between the two via an HDMI KVM and this USB keyboard. The mouse is also USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1330" RevisionGUID="6b5c5798-9c19-4e5a-92e2-dd7808816ae4" CreationDate="2015-11-24T04:43:35.147" UserId="1058" Text="HDMI KVM for Keyboards with Integrated Smart Card Reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1330" RevisionGUID="6b5c5798-9c19-4e5a-92e2-dd7808816ae4" CreationDate="2015-11-24T04:43:35.147" UserId="1058" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;smartcards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1298" RevisionGUID="9fa70bfd-1467-4209-b4ea-a87252f3dae6" CreationDate="2015-11-24T07:09:57.917" UserId="1021" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some sturdy (they will be travelling quite a lot) noise cancelling or, at this price, more likely noise isolating in-ear earphones. I will mostly be listening to classical music and voices, so bass is not as important to me as it may be to others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My research so far has brought me across the Sennheiser CX 175 however; I have read a somewhat worrying number of reviews that mention less than perfect build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wanting to spend somewhere less than £50 ($75) and I would rather spend less for best quality per money than max out my budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="621" RevisionGUID="15968ff3-8cfe-4f19-8a5e-4eb9c2a7dd18" CreationDate="2015-11-24T07:47:40.193" UserId="8" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="I've recommended it before but I'll recommend it again (and no, I swear I'm not an Acer employee): the [Acer Aspire E1-572](http://uk.pcmag.com/acer-e1-572-6870/4205/review/acer-aspire-e1-572-6870). It's a little over your specs in some ways, but it's a good laptop, especially for the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i3/i5 (in newer versions) quad core 1.7 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB DDR3L RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 1 TB internal HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Removable/replaceable battery (handy for being away from power sockets)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine came with Windows 8 installed. Newer versions may come with Windows 10. Installing Linux is about as easy as it is on any &gt; Win 8 machine - they don't like it, but it can be done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On programming capability: I use mine for some heavy programming (small games in Java and C#, plus utility Python 2.7 and 3.4), so you're sorted there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On gaming: again, I use mine for playing games that are more modern that what you'd be playing on it. I usually end up on mid-low graphics settings because of the lack of dedicated graphics card (it has integrated Intel graphics), but again, older games should be better for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an exact figure for price, but it's under $600 - I got it for around £300, which was about $470 last time I checked." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="17b3fe35-713c-4dbc-8528-8e78f406af9b" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:47:27.923" UserId="981" Text="I have a LCD panel with an uncommon resolution of 1920x720 (8:3 aspect). Now, I need a LVDS controller board to use it with a HDMI connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model Number: S123WU01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basic specs: http://www.panelook.com/S123WU01_CDTECH_12.3_LCM_overview_26051.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Datasheet: http://www.mediafire.com/view/29w75kh52m7sbs2/S123WU01.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What LVDS controller is recommended?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="17b3fe35-713c-4dbc-8528-8e78f406af9b" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:47:27.923" UserId="981" Text="Need a LVDS controller (with HDMI) for 1920x720 LCD display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="17b3fe35-713c-4dbc-8528-8e78f406af9b" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:47:27.923" UserId="981" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1339" RevisionGUID="4e6ddd14-d825-4692-95fa-e52fba1e3072" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:03:05.507" UserId="1033" Text="I'm planning to build PC from following parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Processor: Intel i5-6500 &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H55 &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX970 Gaming G1 &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDD: WD 1TB 64MB BLUE &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM: Crucial 8192MB 1600MHz CL11 &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: ASUS H170-PLUS D3&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black Pearl&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now this almost exhausted by budget. I am looking for a durable power supply for this PC, that wouldn't make me go bankrupt. Bonus points if you can find it [on this site(in polish)](http://www.x-kom.pl/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1339" RevisionGUID="4e6ddd14-d825-4692-95fa-e52fba1e3072" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:03:05.507" UserId="1033" Text="What power supply for this PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4776" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1339" RevisionGUID="4e6ddd14-d825-4692-95fa-e52fba1e3072" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:03:05.507" UserId="1033" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1259" RevisionGUID="c7555ac7-f2bd-4ab3-bce7-9cd704e21f27" CreationDate="2015-11-24T21:05:09.580" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="2faa5b4a-bfac-478d-b699-6b260187208b" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:15:56.873" UserId="1056" Comment="Made small edits with spelling and capitilization, also bolded and italicized some words." Text="**For the build** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What memory would you buy, and why?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specific problems I consider:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Currently sold processors support up to 2133 MT/s (or did I miss some model?), but (I guess) the faster dices work as well (with reduced speed), so maybe ex. 2400 if it has better CAS latency and not much of a price difference?&#xD;&#xA; - If I choose Kingston, should I go with furry or savage? I read, that savage is more overclocking friendly, but do not know what it means specifically.&#xD;&#xA; - I see the &quot;PC4-17000&quot; or &quot;PC3-17000&quot; often on dices sold, but on [wikipedia][1], the PC3-17000 is under DDR3 section? &#xD;&#xA; - What should be the upgrade scheme? Incremental (one 8GB dice per year, for most dice 'recycling') or batch (2*4GB, than 4*4GB, than 4*8 GB to gain maximum of dual channel)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note: The accepted answer is the best answer to &quot;what memory would you buy, and why?&quot;, but answers and comments relating to &quot;specific problems&quot; will be greatly appreciated!*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIMM#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="2faa5b4a-bfac-478d-b699-6b260187208b" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:15:56.873" Comment="Proposed by 1056 approved by 951 edit id of 302" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="580ca204-f664-422c-8e50-ca805c41937d" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:45:53.540" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4794" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="5b9035b3-5f52-4cdf-a952-20b249ea7f81" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:54:23.537" UserId="1056" Comment="Made the question look a bit more organized and easy to read." Text="**What routers support per-device Internet bandwidth usage monitoring out of the box?** (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - We have a monthly quota that we're constantly in danger of exceeding, and it's very expensive when to go over quota. &#xD;&#xA; - There are 4 people in the house and three times as many devices, plus guests and their devices. We need to know which people and which devices are causing the most consumption, so we can then determine what to do about it. (Exile offending devices or the offending behaviour-on-device, and/or more equitably split the cost.)&#xD;&#xA; - Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The&#xD;&#xA;   monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external&#xD;&#xA;   (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't&#xD;&#xA;   need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.)&#xD;&#xA; - The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients&#xD;&#xA;   and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to&#xD;&#xA;   Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**A router feature I would like**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Updates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added LAN ports, wifi&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-20: added expected client load&#xD;&#xA;- 2015-Nov-22: added end goal: equitable distribution of consumption cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="5b9035b3-5f52-4cdf-a952-20b249ea7f81" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:54:23.537" Comment="Proposed by 1056 approved by -1 edit id of 303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="4d1a3211-6c45-4749-bea3-c91845c9a2ee" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:54:23.537" UserId="8" Comment="Made the question look a bit more organized and easy to read." Text="**What routers support per-device Internet bandwidth usage monitoring out of the box?** (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - We have a monthly quota that we're constantly in danger of exceeding, and it's very expensive when to go over quota. &#xD;&#xA; - There are 4 people in the house and three times as many devices, plus guests and their devices. We need to know which people and which devices are causing the most consumption, so we can then determine what to do about it. (Exile offending devices or the offending behaviour-on-device, and/or more equitably split the cost.)&#xD;&#xA; - Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The&#xD;&#xA;   monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external&#xD;&#xA;   (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't&#xD;&#xA;   need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.)&#xD;&#xA; - The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients&#xD;&#xA;   and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to&#xD;&#xA;   Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**A router feature I would like**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However experience with my RT-N56U where the [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4] makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="9219509b-dbd7-4440-882c-b3f3ebadedc9" CreationDate="2015-11-24T22:54:59.777" UserId="8" Comment="There is no accepted answer." Text="**For the build** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What memory would you buy, and why?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specific problems I consider:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Currently sold processors support up to 2133 MT/s (or did I miss some model?), but (I guess) the faster dices work as well (with reduced speed), so maybe ex. 2400 if it has better CAS latency and not much of a price difference?&#xD;&#xA; - If I choose Kingston, should I go with furry or savage? I read, that savage is more overclocking friendly, but do not know what it means specifically.&#xD;&#xA; - I see the &quot;PC4-17000&quot; or &quot;PC3-17000&quot; often on dices sold, but on [wikipedia][1], the PC3-17000 is under DDR3 section? &#xD;&#xA; - What should be the upgrade scheme? Incremental (one 8GB dice per year, for most dice 'recycling') or batch (2*4GB, than 4*4GB, than 4*8 GB to gain maximum of dual channel)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIMM#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4800" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1320" RevisionGUID="7f6852ba-07f9-44c5-ae23-c2967cc4dca5" CreationDate="2015-11-25T01:08:51.837" UserId="476" Comment="Added clarification on some of the bullet points." Text="I'm looking for a laptop for light school work (light web browsing up to 20 tabs, word processing, rare photoshop, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8 GB of RAM, upgradable if possible&#xD;&#xA; - At least 1 TB of storage, 64 GB if SSD (**edit:** 128 GB SSD is preferable to either)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 6 hours of battery life while web browsing (**edit:** brightness should be visible outside without direct sunlight), with 8 hours being preferable&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11n WiFi, either 2.4 GHz or both 2.4 and 5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual storage (SSD + HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - Preinstalled OS (Windows or Linux) with no Secure Boot&#xD;&#xA; - An ODD&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - GT3 graphics (Intel Iris/Intel Iris Pro)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen &gt;15&quot; and full HD (1080p) resolution&#xD;&#xA; - Should be portable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newer the CPU is, the better. If it is not possible to find such a laptop within the budget I am willing to extend it up to 1400 AUD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1301" RevisionGUID="99069e5d-ce57-4222-ae77-83482c927321" CreationDate="2015-11-25T02:16:10.943" UserId="821" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="My 5th pair of Apple Earbuds broke about a week ago and I'm done. (RIP 2012-2015). I'm looking for a good pair of headphones that will last me long. I'm not going to buy another pair of Earbuds, because I DID, and those were an even bigger pain in the butt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*MUST-HAVES*:  &#xD;&#xA;1. **PC and iPod4** I will be using both devices frequently and a pair of headphones without this support will not be considered.  &#xD;&#xA;2. **Microphone.** I am sick of using my iPod4 for skype calls and will need a microphone so I can get better call quality. Please, don't make a recommendation with a separate mike.  &#xD;&#xA;3. **Wired.** If it is not possible for the mobile devices to support one cable, then split microphone and audio are fine.  &#xD;&#xA;4. **Warranty.** This must come with AT LEAST a 30-day warranty. 1 YR would be ideal, but it think it may be far-fetched.  &#xD;&#xA;5. **Color.** Must be black with blue or black with red. I will allow black-with-X combos.   &#xD;&#xA;6. **Under $45.** The black Friday sales are coming soon so I expect these not to be that costly. The lower the better. If the headset only has the MUST-HAVES, then it should be under $35. However, don't cheap out; try to find a good model with ALL or most of the optional (but wanted) features. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*ADDITONALLY:*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **LED LIGHTS.** They don't have to be customizable, but that would be great.  &#xD;&#xA;2. **CONTROLLER.** A controller on the wire would be great fully appreciated. Should have `mute mike`,`mute audio`, and `louder` and `lower`. Mute mick is optional, rest must be if there is a controller.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1341" RevisionGUID="c61006b2-474b-44b2-baef-1afa84effd8f" CreationDate="2015-11-25T04:14:31.220" UserId="821" Text="I've taken a look at the website and here are my final two options:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.x-kom.pl/p/226049-zasilacz-komputerowy-thermaltake-450w-tr2-120mm-oem.html&quot;&gt; Thermaltak 450w &lt;/a&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;Modular? No. (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Cost? 159 zł. (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Size/Length? 120mm.   &#xD;&#xA;Warranty? 24 months. (+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.x-kom.pl/p/206808-zasilacz-komputerowy-corsair-vs-series-550w-80plus-box.html&quot;&gt; Corsair VS Series, 550w &lt;/a&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;Modular? No. (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Cost? 215 zł. (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Size/Length? 120mm.   &#xD;&#xA;Warranty? 36 months. (++)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would take the Corsair VS Series, as it has a better warranty and it has 100 more watts and is only 75 zł higher in price. Since you want a durable &amp; long-lasting PSU, this seems to be it. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1342" RevisionGUID="502e0ffc-9664-4a67-8f9e-aa1329eda60f" CreationDate="2015-11-25T08:19:08.783" UserId="203" Text="Using eXtreme Outer Vision's eXtreme Power Supply calculator, the power consumption of your build comes to about 390 W. With some overclocking, this becomes 470 W. Any decent 500 - 550 W PSU should handle the load fine for several years with no problems, even if you do overclock a bit later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally won't recommend the Corsair VS series, as it uses poor quality capacitors. Here are my recommendations from the site you posted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **[Antec 550W VPF550 EC][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Antec VPF line is a relatively new series manufactured by Delta Electronics. It has Japanese capacitors and a 24 month warranty. Currently it is priced at 249 zł. Non modular, but that isn't much of a problem for lower capacity PSUs, it also has 80 + Bronze certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[XFX Core TS 550W][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The XFX TS series is a budget series manufactured by Seasonic (one of the best manufacturers of PSUs out there). It also has Japanese capacitors and a 60 month warranty (that's right, 5 years). It's one of my favorite recommendations: High quality at a relatively low price. Again, has 80+ Bronze certification and is non modular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I took some time to shop around on some other Polish sites (which was a breeze as soon as I figured out what the word for Power Supply was), and I found the TS selling slightly cheaper at [komputronik.pl][3]. Overall, I think both PSUs will fit your needs, and it is up to you to choose the one you like better. Good luck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/222686-zasilacz-komputerowy-antec-550w-vpf550-ec.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/250429-zasilacz-komputerowy-xfx-core-ts-550w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.komputronik.pl/product/120162/Sprzet_komputerowy_/Podzespoly/XFX_Core_550W_120mm_80_SLI_PSU.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1344" RevisionGUID="fa82f2b6-035b-4bce-807c-592922974cbf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T08:58:14.283" UserId="1067" Text="I bought Assassin's Creed: Syndicate last night and found that my graphics card was *really* struggling with it. The card itself is at least 2 years old (I bought it with my first paycheck in 2013) and was second hand/refurbished even then. It's had a good life, but I'm ready to give it a viking funeral.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current hardware specs are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i5-i3570 3.4ghz (can be overclocked to 4ghz)&#xD;&#xA;- 24GB DDR3 RAM @ 1333mhz (don't ask)&#xD;&#xA;- 2TB Seagate Internal HDD (Not sure if that is entirely relevant - disk speeds aren't as fast as my SSD but I don't want to put something as beefy as AC on an SSD)&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H motherboard (http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4140#ov)&#xD;&#xA;- Can't remember exact model of the PSU but I believe it is 700W.. it is, at lowest, 500W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, of course, the nvidia 650 Ti with 2GB graphics memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd ideally like to play at a steady 40+fps @ 1920x1080 on at least medium settings - right now the game is pretty choppy in terms of FPS especially in some scenes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand, of course, that the AC games are known for their.. lack of optimisation :(&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be willing to stretch to about £250, which is *just under* the cost of [this card](http://www.ebuyer.com/663848-msi-gtx-970-gaming-twin-frozr-v-4gb-gddr5-dual-dvi-hdmi-gtx-970-gaming-4g) but anything more would be pushing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebuyer links would be preferred as they do next day delivery ;-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1344" RevisionGUID="fa82f2b6-035b-4bce-807c-592922974cbf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T08:58:14.283" UserId="1067" Text="Upgrading from a nVidia 650 TI to something more beefy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1344" RevisionGUID="fa82f2b6-035b-4bce-807c-592922974cbf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T08:58:14.283" UserId="1067" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1345" RevisionGUID="f0948348-2745-493e-b0c6-bbae013363bf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:06:12.983" UserId="769" Text="I currently have a 24&quot; BenQ XL2430T 144hz monitor. I am looking for a secondary monitor that will be used primarily for watching videos and other non-gaming related tasks. I will be doing all my gaming on my main monitor so a fast response rate is not neccessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would however, like something bright and colourful with an IPS panel with preferably a black bezel and stand. So far I have been looking at [LG 24MB35PH][1] and the [Acer G246-LBBID][2]. If the recommendation was good enough I would not mind going slightly over the £150 budget. Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-24MP57VQ-Monitor-1920x1080-HDMI/dp/B00UNBALBY/ref=pd_cp_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1JEE8QWBBKTEE9KGY6NK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-G246HLBBID-24-inch-Monitor-EcoDisplay/dp/B008I39WXC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448442078&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=24%22%20computer%20monitor%20ips" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1345" RevisionGUID="f0948348-2745-493e-b0c6-bbae013363bf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:06:12.983" UserId="769" Text="Secondary monitor for under £150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1345" RevisionGUID="f0948348-2745-493e-b0c6-bbae013363bf" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:06:12.983" UserId="769" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1345" RevisionGUID="54ba1b4a-a459-4469-9921-f65a0b0dcb5c" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:33:53.107" UserId="769" Comment="Added extra detail for requirements" Text="I currently have a 24&quot; BenQ XL2430T 144hz monitor. I am looking for a secondary 1080p monitor that will be used primarily for watching videos and other non-gaming related tasks. I will be doing all my gaming on my main monitor so a fast response rate is not neccessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would however, like something bright and colourful with an IPS panel with preferably a black bezel and stand. 16:9 ratio is a must for me and the mointor must have a DVI or HDMI connection (preferably both!). I always use my headphones so built-in speakers is not needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have been looking at [LG 24MB35PH][1] and the [Acer G246-LBBID][2]. If the recommendation was good enough I would not mind going slightly over the £150 budget. Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-24MP57VQ-Monitor-1920x1080-HDMI/dp/B00UNBALBY/ref=pd_cp_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1JEE8QWBBKTEE9KGY6NK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-G246HLBBID-24-inch-Monitor-EcoDisplay/dp/B008I39WXC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448442078&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=24%22%20computer%20monitor%20ips" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="885adfd0-e733-4b65-a200-3ab165e02345" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:58:10.100" UserId="987" Comment="added summary" Text="Here are 2 case that you may be able to use for a dubble powersupply. The Thermaltake Core X9 is a solid metal case ment for pc's with EATX support. it modulair and you can probebly fit a dual ATX PSU in. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC 4U-4310L is a server rack with support for a redunant powersupply. this als has hotswapports and is a 4u formfactor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are not the cheapes cases that there are in the marked. but i think that in these you can fit your pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you want a case with no hassle then you can get teh Thermaltake Core X9. also this one looks the best and has good ventalation.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;if you want a rack server you could go with the IPC one but it doesn support 2 full atx powersupplys but a redundant powersupply(this means one set of cables etc.)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;and if you want to go on the cheap you can mod the any cude form factor case to fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;overall i would pick the THermaltake Core x9 becaus it suitse your needs the best and it almost hassle free." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1346" RevisionGUID="fcba3b79-416a-4718-a28f-e7fa2621c6a1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:59:27.917" UserId="1069" Text="Shot in the dark here but is anyone aware of any laptops or tablets which have a pure LCD (Old LCD screen without the LED backlight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let me explain why...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a brother who suffers from a rare eye condition which is worsened by LED screens. (uveitis) &#xD;&#xA;So essentially we are hunting for a device which he is still able to use as he is unaffected by LCD screen technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can imagine with everything going LED this leaves him with very little options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially we cannot afford to be fussy but it would be great if the device is at least a high spec i5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4826" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1346" RevisionGUID="fcba3b79-416a-4718-a28f-e7fa2621c6a1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:59:27.917" UserId="1069" Text="LCD Laptop \ Tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1346" RevisionGUID="fcba3b79-416a-4718-a28f-e7fa2621c6a1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:59:27.917" UserId="1069" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="ebd0c5a6-cf0f-4634-a74d-3e39d8c3c50b" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:01:14.273" UserId="1068" Text="I am looking to develop a 10Gbps ethernet system on a Kintex-7 FPGA. I want the FPGA to communicate with a PC for monitoring the data, configuration, etc., at 10Gbps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using a PC with Intel i7, 2 Avago GTX transceivers and a KC705 evaluation board from Xilinx. There is an opportunity to install the eval board directly onto the PC. But I do not want that. I want to connect it via an Optical Fiber.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am new to this field, I need some recommendations for a Network Card with Fiber Optic Channel (SFP+) for my PC(or a PC with this NIC)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="ebd0c5a6-cf0f-4634-a74d-3e39d8c3c50b" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:01:14.273" UserId="1068" Text="recommendation for 10g sfp+ NICs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="ebd0c5a6-cf0f-4634-a74d-3e39d8c3c50b" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:01:14.273" UserId="1068" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ec44fa24-abff-4411-b48d-f8b581ed3c91" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:56:35.227" UserId="21" Text="Not entirely relevant to the question but it is the problem I have encountered.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! I have a notebook plugged to a monitor and I need to use a usb mouse, a usb keyboard, a usb wireless adapter (TP-LINK TL-WN722N) and a usb mini-table with coolers (my note's internal cooler isn't enough, it overheats). The note has only three usb ports so I bought a cheap usb hub with no visible brand.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &lt;br&gt; At first, I had the keyboard and table plugged in but sadly it doesn't work well with my keyboard, keystrokes are delayed and sometimes the input is stuck and a single key gets repeated for a couple of seconds; so I've switched the mouse with the keyboard and although it works fine sometimes, every now and then the mouse doesn't respond or respond slowly with a big delay and after a couple of hours it stops working altogether. On Windows it keeps beeping that plug sound and on Linux nothing happens, on both the behaviour is the same in other ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * At least four ports&#xD;&#xA; * Works on Windows and Linux (even if it doesn't install the driver itself)&#xD;&#xA; * Stable - doesn't stop working out of nowhere and/or can be reset and work again without shutting down or restarting the OS&#xD;&#xA; * Recognizes printers and other devices that need drivers&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer from/to multiple devices to/from computer&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Two USB 3.0 ports (or more)&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer between devices plugged directly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ec44fa24-abff-4411-b48d-f8b581ed3c91" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:56:35.227" UserId="21" Text="USB hub with stable behaviour" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ec44fa24-abff-4411-b48d-f8b581ed3c91" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:56:35.227" UserId="21" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ae55f2a9-2f17-40e1-a7e0-c3126617d6e7" CreationDate="2015-11-25T13:12:21.130" UserId="57" Comment="removes spoiler" Text="Not entirely relevant to the question but it is the problem I have encountered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a notebook plugged to a monitor and I need to use a USB mouse, a USB keyboard, a USB wireless adapter (TP-LINK TL-WN722N) and a USB mini-table with coolers (my note's internal cooler isn't enough, it overheats). The notebook has only three USB ports so I bought a cheap USB hub with no visible brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I had the keyboard and table plugged in but sadly it doesn't work well with my keyboard, keystrokes are delayed and sometimes the input is stuck and a single key gets repeated for a couple of seconds; so I've switched the mouse with the keyboard and although it works fine sometimes, every now and then the mouse doesn't respond or respond slowly with a big delay and after a couple of hours it stops working altogether. On Windows it keeps beeping that plug sound and on Linux nothing happens, on both the behavior is the same in other ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * At least four ports&#xD;&#xA; * Works on Windows and Linux (even if it doesn't install the driver itself)&#xD;&#xA; * Stable - doesn't stop working out of nowhere and/or can be reset and work again without shutting down or restarting the OS&#xD;&#xA; * Recognizes printers and other devices that need drivers&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer from/to multiple devices to/from computer&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Two USB 3.0 ports (or more)&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer between devices plugged directly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1346" RevisionGUID="8cdf788e-9524-4d2d-b6fb-43e4fff21b1b" CreationDate="2015-11-25T13:13:09.397" UserId="57" Comment="removes thanks" Text="Shot in the dark here but is anyone aware of any laptops or tablets which have a pure LCD (Old LCD screen without the LED backlight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let me explain why...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a brother who suffers from a rare eye condition which is worsened by LED screens. (uveitis) &#xD;&#xA;So essentially we are hunting for a device which he is still able to use as he is unaffected by LCD screen technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can imagine with everything going LED this leaves him with very little options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially we cannot afford to be fussy but it would be great if the device is at least a high spec i5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="51aea309-4c29-41f0-83c5-c3bd22cefd56" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:58:26.243" UserId="8" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Here are 2 cases that you may be able to use for a double power supply. The Thermaltake Core X9 is a solid metal case meant for pc's with EATX support. it modulair and you can probably fit a dual ATX PSU in. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC 4U-4310L is a server rack with support for a redundant power supply. this also has hot swap ports and is a 4u form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are not the cheapest cases that there are in the marked. but i think that in these you can fit your pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you want a case with no hassle then you can get the Thermaltake Core X9. also this one looks the best and has good ventilation.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;if you want a rack server you could go with the IPC one but it doesn't support 2 full atx power supplies but a redundant power supply (this means one set of cables etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you want to go on the cheap you can mod any cube form factor case to fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall i would pick the Thermaltake Core x9 because it suits your needs the best and it almost hassle free." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1350" RevisionGUID="913cb124-349e-4545-a858-69a620898971" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:19:17.300" UserId="164" Text="The AMD R9 390 is slightly cheaper than the GTX 970 (£185), and offers similar or better performance in comparison to the Nvidia card you were showing. As a owner of this card myself, I am very pleased with it. Just keep in mind that if your Power Supply is not over 600 watts, you should choose an Nvidia GTX 970, as they use less power. Figuring the wattage of your PSU is easy, just take a look at the side of the unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A link to a relatively cheap R9 390 is [here - this][1] card has a slightly different cooler than the one I got for mine, but has the same overall design. It costs £185.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A link to a cheaper GTX 970 is [here -][2] again, this card is slightly less powerful but uses less power. After putting it in your cart, it should cost £192.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://%20http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125792&amp;cm_re=r9_390-_-14-125-792-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088&amp;cm_re=gtx_970-_-14-487-088-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1352" RevisionGUID="9e0b6cbd-6795-4479-ba51-09dd6f0b4e2c" CreationDate="2015-11-26T01:43:44.880" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend the [Logitech C920][1]. It fits perfectly in your budget at $99.99. Here's the features it offers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p Full HD Recording&#xD;&#xA; - Dual Microphone&#xD;&#xA; - H.264 compression&#xD;&#xA; - Tripod mount&#xD;&#xA; - Low light correction&#xD;&#xA; - Autofocus&#xD;&#xA; - Connection through USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/hd-pro-webcam-c920?crid=34" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1167" RevisionGUID="a84e2a54-df0e-4632-ad8d-0706171d4923" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:41:10.610" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="845" RevisionGUID="47a04ef5-ce53-4b7d-974f-6c7260b4cb06" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:41:46.093" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;dvi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1353" RevisionGUID="88afedb3-c714-4ac9-adf8-aef661e052d8" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:44:58.253" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1354" RevisionGUID="d2ea27e2-04f0-43b1-9ef3-727a25112d6f" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:44:58.253" UserId="155" Text="For questions about hardware that runs without fan ventilation. Consider also using the [silent] or [quiet-computing] tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1355" RevisionGUID="368df689-3bc1-48c1-b09e-a30e50074555" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:49:07.130" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1356" RevisionGUID="d393cbc4-e65f-4984-b96f-55ab05fb1106" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:49:07.130" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices using the fourth-generation (4G) high-bandwidth wireless mobile communication standard created in 2008." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1357" RevisionGUID="c3f8ce97-cbd7-4e5a-8cb1-5ef9144accfa" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:52:54.010" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1358" RevisionGUID="49601480-48fe-41f0-b716-41cae2170862" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:52:54.010" UserId="155" Text="For questions about Google's mobile service launched in 2015 that allows customers to use Wi-Fi and the cell towers of multiple carriers interchangeably." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1359" RevisionGUID="b2426521-b806-467c-ad2d-f99fe336cd4a" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:54:31.010" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1360" RevisionGUID="a59fb556-0517-4643-9b71-da6750e36669" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:54:31.010" UserId="155" Text="For questions about mouse pads (or mats) that are used to provide reliable tracking surfaces for laser and optical mice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1361" RevisionGUID="cb31307b-a700-4dd2-94e3-3710be11ba05" CreationDate="2015-11-26T05:07:43.267" UserId="1077" Text="I have a Windows Vista Home Premium PC. It needs 2 new RAM chips, but I do not know what I should get. Does anyone know what is under $100 and is really good?&#xA;&#xA;More PC info&#xA;&#xA;Windows Vista Home Premium&#xA;Compaq Presario SR5710F &#xA;Service Pack 2&#xA;3 GB memory&#xA;250 GB Hard Drive&#xA;AMD Anthlon X2 4450e Dual-Core processor&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;I intend on gaming on this PC, but I really want less expensive, good card(s)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1361" RevisionGUID="cb31307b-a700-4dd2-94e3-3710be11ba05" CreationDate="2015-11-26T05:07:43.267" UserId="1077" Text="What should I buy? (RAM Chips)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1361" RevisionGUID="cb31307b-a700-4dd2-94e3-3710be11ba05" CreationDate="2015-11-26T05:07:43.267" UserId="1077" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1361" RevisionGUID="57ed77f2-41c7-4df4-881c-f87bc21cf329" CreationDate="2015-11-26T05:24:04.610" UserId="1077" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have a Windows Vista Home Premium PC. It needs 2 new RAM chips, but I do not know what I should get. Does anyone know what is under $100 and is really good?&#xA;&#xA;More PC info&#xA;&#xA;Windows Vista Home Premium,&#xA;Compaq Presario SR5710F,&#xA;Service Pack 2,&#xA;3 GB memory,&#xA;250 GB Hard Drive,&#xA;AMD Anthlon X2 4450e Dual-Core processor,&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;I intend on gaming on this PC, but I really want less expensive, good card(s)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1361" RevisionGUID="3ef85e43-dd4e-402c-9d51-329923778a9b" CreationDate="2015-11-26T05:43:30.790" UserId="1077" Comment="added 116 characters in body" Text="I have a Windows Vista Home Premium PC. It needs 2 new RAM chips, but I do not know what I should get. Does anyone know what is under $100 and is really good?&#xA;&#xA;More PC info&#xA;&#xA;Windows Vista Home Premium,&#xA;Compaq Presario SR5710F,&#xA;Service Pack 2,&#xA;3 GB memory,&#xA;250 GB Hard Drive,&#xA;AMD Anthlon X2 4450e Dual-Core processor,&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;I do a lot of gaming on this PC, but I really want less expensive, good card(s). I do know it wasn't originally built for gaming, but I can't even use it until the RAM/memory cards are replaced" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1362" RevisionGUID="55ccec65-fbe5-4929-8eee-12ccb6e8ed5d" CreationDate="2015-11-26T06:02:41.380" UserId="241" Text="Your computer's RAM cannot be significantly upgraded.  [Crucial's memory finder reports][1], and [HP's support page agrees][2] that your computer is limited to 4 GB of RAM.  Further, you appear to be running a 32-bit version of Windows, which for technical reasons is limited to about 3.25 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to do this, I recommend figuring out which of the two sticks of memory in your computer is the 1 GB one, and replacing it with a [Crucial 2 GB PC2-6400][3] stick for $27.  I don't have experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Crucial memory upgrades for older computers, and importantly, they guarantee compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you upgrade, you'll also want to switch to a 64-bit operating system to get access to all your RAM.  Instructions on doing so are beyond the scope of this site, but you may be able to get useful information on [SuperUser][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/HP-Compaq/presario-sr5710f&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/Compaq-Presario-SR5000-Desktop-PC-series/3823953/model/3867466/document/c01616202/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/presario-sr5710f/CT927931&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1330" RevisionGUID="97c563a2-f194-46e1-9825-cba4b3221e15" CreationDate="2015-11-26T06:26:35.500" UserId="1058" Comment="9" />
  <row Id="4865" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1133" RevisionGUID="223f1f68-d5e5-4d19-b2c9-1357978c5009" CreationDate="2015-11-26T06:44:43.270" UserId="54" Comment="8" />
  <row Id="4869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1364" RevisionGUID="205d508c-14f7-4653-8080-35a5b77a7a22" CreationDate="2015-11-26T09:16:17.197" UserId="1079" Text="Right now I have an AMD FX-6350 but I'm a dumbass and slightly caught my motherboard on fire. It's gotten slowly worse over the last two years, and now I can barely play any games less than 10 years old without constant crashes. Even Netflix crashes every episode or two. Onboard LAN is dead, some USB ports don't work, and the Firewire header port is fried (the original source of the issues).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really need my computer for next semester since I'll be doing a lot of programming and don't want to lose data constantly. I'd also like to do some gaming on the weekends when I have some free time (I can't even play WoW on low settings for more than 10-20 minutes right now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I (hopefully) get a nice job in the spring after I get my degree, I'll be able to upgrade, and it would be nice to consider that in the recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about overclocking and haven't run SLI since the Voodoo 2 cards I had in '99-ish. I currently have 4 HDDs (1 + 3 raided) and will probably get a BluRay drive at some point as well. I have an ATI R7-260X GPU which does well enough on everything I'm playing right now, but it will get upgraded next year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the options I'm looking at right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Buy a new AMD motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; The problem here is two years of running on a bad motherboard may have damaged the processor, in which case I'd have to buy another processor. The good side is if the processor is fine, a single motherboard is cheaper than a new motherboard and processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Will any MB I buy for the 6350 work for a newer CPU later, like an 8350 or the 9000+ CPUs? Or will I need to buy a special MB now that's likely a lot more expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I can pick up an ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3 for $50, down to $30 with a mail-in rebate. It's nothing super-fancy, but should get me through. For a little more money I can get some features like a second PCIE x16 slot, but I don't think it's worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy a new Intel CPU+MB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; This is obviously more expensive if my current processor is fine. But I'm guaranteed a good combo. Also, my understanding is that Intel is generally better for gaming, but I'm getting conflicting reports here. My 6-core should hypothetically work better than a 2-core Intel, but some reports show the I3 dominating the FX-8300 in some places.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; In the spring, I'll be able to upgrade to an I5 or something. I'm guessing this upgrade path will ultimately be better than a new AMD MB now and upgrading everything later, but I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Looking on Newegg right now, there seem to be two choices for processor, the I3-4170 and the G3460 (lower isn't fast enough, higher gets expensive quickly). The I3-4170 is technically better, but costs $105, while the G3460 only costs $70. I can't find any direct comparison testing, but CPU-Boss and similar sites show it being competitive with the I3. About the same (maybe a bit better) for single-core, and 5-20% worse for multicore. Both processors are supposedly a bit worse than my 6350 for gaming, although 6 months ago the I3 was supposed to spank my 6350. Yay for benchmark testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I was able to find a GIGABYTE GA-Z87-DS3H LGA for $45 refurbished with a 1-year warranty. My understanding is the Z87 is as good as the Z97 except for eSATA and M.2 and I don't use either of those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$30 vs $135 seems like a no-brainer. But I'm really not sure my processor isn't part of the crashing, and I'm not convinced an AMD upgrade path is best. Thoughts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1364" RevisionGUID="205d508c-14f7-4653-8080-35a5b77a7a22" CreationDate="2015-11-26T09:16:17.197" UserId="1079" Text="New MB for current FX-6350 vs new MB/CPU for I3-4170 vs new MB/CPU for G3460?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4871" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1364" RevisionGUID="205d508c-14f7-4653-8080-35a5b77a7a22" CreationDate="2015-11-26T09:16:17.197" UserId="1079" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1365" RevisionGUID="520c6ff2-8f1b-44a9-a439-f5c58946078a" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:19:07.450" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1366" RevisionGUID="33b6830d-f723-41e9-8510-05a2225d0df6" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:19:07.450" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for a device capable of transforming video input from a file or stream to another video format." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="922" RevisionGUID="86b0d6d6-d938-4ef7-be75-eff36f1ec808" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:19:48.320" UserId="8" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="For questions asking for a device to be used to serve content to remote users via the Internet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1367" RevisionGUID="6285548f-f63d-41c1-92a4-5ad0659060a7" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:19:27.447" UserId="987" Text="The [Aten 4-Port USB Peripheral Sharing][1] Device should work with your keyboard and mouse also i has a 9 usb port version. It has a lot of wires and its messy but should work with your setup&lt;br&gt;This doesn't have Hdmi so if your old KVM still works i would add that to the mix it has a wired button which is not the best but could do&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also its recommende to stick it down to you pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its small and not very expensive i think this should fit your needs/comes closest to fitting your needs. it sells for about 50 Dollars at amazone.com and added a link for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Peripheral-Sharing-Device-US424/dp/B00B1SENTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448543695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Aten%20US424" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="3407929e-047b-4a9d-88e8-9657cc0341f8" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:30:06.780" UserId="951" Text="Currently I plan buing the components below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB with 212 EVO&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA; - Fractal Design Define S case&#xD;&#xA; - 4 SHIRU 140mm (8.9 db) fans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I [calculated][1], that the 430 - 500 W PSU is optimal.&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;I'm speciffically interested in low noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="3407929e-047b-4a9d-88e8-9657cc0341f8" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:30:06.780" UserId="951" Text="The quietest PSU under 100 bucks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="3407929e-047b-4a9d-88e8-9657cc0341f8" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:30:06.780" UserId="951" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="89c4c29d-8e87-4f85-abc5-346099c21b5e" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:36:20.323" UserId="951" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Currently I plan buing the components below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB with 212 EVO&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA; - Fractal Design Define S case&#xD;&#xA; - 4 SHIRU 140mm (8.9 db) fans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I [calculated][1], that the 430 - 500 W PSU is optimal.&#xD;&#xA;What PSU would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;I'm speciffically interested in low noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1367" RevisionGUID="1f8553b0-6d6e-47e1-9252-61c12c97a43f" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:40:38.293" UserId="987" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="The [Aten 4-Port USB Peripheral Sharing][1] Device should work with your keyboard and mouse also i has a 9 usb port version. It has a lot of wires and its messy but should work with your setup&lt;br&gt;This doesn't have Hdmi so if your old KVM still works i would add that to the mix it has a wired button which is not the best but could do&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also its recommende to stick it down to you pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its small and not very expensive i think this should fit your needs/comes closest to fitting your needs. it sells for about 50 Dollars at amazone.com and added a link for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a usb 2.0 KVM so make sure your keyboard and mouse can run over that type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Peripheral-Sharing-Device-US424/dp/B00B1SENTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448543695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Aten%20US424" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1369" RevisionGUID="95252589-471c-4349-85c5-7ff3f7f788ed" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:50:55.660" UserId="581" Text="There are a couple Coolermaster, Corsair (AX and RM) and EVGA series power supplies that disable their fan under low load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation: [EVGA SuperNova 550 G2][1] (220-G2-0550-Y1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Within budget ($80,- at [newegg][2])&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA Eco Mode: Fan does not switch on until PSU load is above 25%&#xD;&#xA; - 550 Watts, which is just above your calculated optimal.&#xD;&#xA; - 80 plus Gold for efficiency.&#xD;&#xA; - Made by Seasonic, which almost always guarentees a high quality PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0550-Y1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1370" RevisionGUID="ea6f0d07-3720-4cb2-a025-99b01bb6cf94" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:52:10.273" UserId="987" Text="The Kobo Aura H2o is what you need. its a pater proof e-reader with e-ink display and can survive 30 min in 1 meter deep water. it also has a hd diplay and supports almost all formats under the sun. i beleave its about 180 dollars. there is a case accesory that snaps off by the looks of it. this cover makes it so you don't stabe the unit it self but the case. it has an online books store and can be loaded up with micro usb according to there site. but you might need to run whine with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with the search i hope this helps you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[click me][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;overall its a high res e-paper displey tables e-reader with some cool features and is not very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Kobo-H2O-6-8-Inch-Resistant-E-Reader/dp/B00N9ZVN90" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1370" RevisionGUID="ebd9dc23-1f71-4c65-ad3a-07776e65a70a" CreationDate="2015-11-26T14:14:52.940" UserId="8" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="The Kobo Aura H2o is what you need. its a pater proof e-reader with e-ink display and can survive 30 min in 1 meter deep water. It also has a hd display and supports almost all formats under the sun. I believe it's about 180 dollars. There is a case accessory that snaps off by the looks of it. This cover makes it so you don't stab the unit it self but the case. It has an online books store and can be loaded up with microUSB according to their site. You might need to run whine with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with the search I hope this helps you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Link to product][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall it's a high res e-paper display tables e-reader with some cool features and is not very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Kobo-H2O-6-8-Inch-Resistant-E-Reader/dp/B00N9ZVN90" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1371" RevisionGUID="a692aed0-a93c-4e83-b65d-930f7288bc45" CreationDate="2015-11-26T15:26:41.667" UserId="1090" Text="A friend bought an [Asus VX239W][1] for a similar use case, and after seeing it a couple of times, I'm considering it too. Great image quality and overall screen for the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But buy it in [Spain][2] for example, much better price considering the exchange rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/VX239H-W-Widescreen-Multimedia-Monitor-1920x1080/dp/B00GGQFOVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448551402&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ASUS%20VX239W&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.es/ASUS-VX239W-Monitor-1920-blanco/dp/B00GGQFOVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448551547&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ASUS%20VX239W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1372" RevisionGUID="403859ea-15f0-4bc8-b3fc-038e9ff79177" CreationDate="2015-11-26T19:23:50.403" UserId="1067" Text="Bought a GTX 970 yesterday - just arrived, turns out I don't have the connectors required. Tried to bodge it with a 4-pin molex to 8-pin connector, that doesn't fit either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas on a cheap-ish (max £60) power supply that could power this GTX? I have no idea about these connectors. I've found [this one](http://www.ebuyer.com/713453-seasonic-s12-ii-620w-80-bronze-certified-psu-jap-caps-12cm-ss-620gb) but I'm not sure it has the connectors I need - all I know is that I need at least one 8-pin and one 6-pin (not sure of the differently terminologies here)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1372" RevisionGUID="403859ea-15f0-4bc8-b3fc-038e9ff79177" CreationDate="2015-11-26T19:23:50.403" UserId="1067" Text="Power Supply for nvidia GTX 970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1372" RevisionGUID="403859ea-15f0-4bc8-b3fc-038e9ff79177" CreationDate="2015-11-26T19:23:50.403" UserId="1067" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1374" RevisionGUID="f9df7c9e-1377-4c9c-a297-1b343cf9986e" CreationDate="2015-11-26T20:07:38.133" UserId="527" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a portable rechargeable battery pack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable&#xD;&#xA; 1. Can *safely* power tablets and phones (only need 2.1A at once)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Can *reliably* jumpstart a large vehicle engine (4.0L)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. As low of a price as possible&#xD;&#xA; 2. As small as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Has a carrying case (but not willing to pay extra for one)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Costco currently sells such a device for $59.99, but I have been unable to find any reviews of it, nor do I know anyone who has tried one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1374" RevisionGUID="f9df7c9e-1377-4c9c-a297-1b343cf9986e" CreationDate="2015-11-26T20:07:38.133" UserId="527" Text="Portable rechargeable battery (power supply) for tablets and phones that will also jumpstart large vehicle engines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1374" RevisionGUID="f9df7c9e-1377-4c9c-a297-1b343cf9986e" CreationDate="2015-11-26T20:07:38.133" UserId="527" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1364" RevisionGUID="62cb3548-08be-4752-991d-6eaacd2d4064" CreationDate="2015-11-26T22:37:59.997" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="4654096b-9293-46e7-b1c3-0063411057bd" CreationDate="2015-11-27T00:26:25.910" UserId="21" Comment="add requirement" Text="Not entirely relevant to the question but it is the problem I have encountered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a notebook plugged to a monitor and I need to use a USB mouse, a USB keyboard, a USB wireless adapter (TP-LINK TL-WN722N) and a USB mini-table with coolers (my note's internal cooler isn't enough, it overheats). The notebook has only three USB ports so I bought a cheap USB hub with no visible brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I had the keyboard and table plugged in but sadly it doesn't work well with my keyboard, keystrokes are delayed and sometimes the input is stuck and a single key gets repeated for a couple of seconds; so I've switched the mouse with the keyboard and although it works fine sometimes, every now and then the mouse doesn't respond or respond slowly with a big delay and after a couple of hours it stops working altogether. On Windows it keeps beeping that plug sound and on Linux nothing happens, on both the behavior is the same in other ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * At least four ports&#xD;&#xA; * Works on Windows and Linux (even if it doesn't install the driver itself)&#xD;&#xA; * Stable - doesn't stop working out of nowhere and/or can be reset and work again without shutting down or restarting the OS&#xD;&#xA; * Recognizes printers and other devices that need drivers&#xD;&#xA; * Needs to be powered, rather than drawing its power from the USB cable&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer from/to multiple devices to/from computer&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Two USB 3.0 ports (or more)&#xD;&#xA; * [optional] Able to transfer between devices plugged directly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="571c935c-1347-4669-8224-61dc03a27ffc" CreationDate="2015-11-27T02:02:59.733" UserId="313" Comment="Added hyperlinks" Text="I have a LCD panel with an uncommon resolution of 1920x720 (8:3 aspect). Now, I need a LVDS controller board to use it with a HDMI connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model Number: S123WU01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Basic specs][1]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Datasheet][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What LVDS controller is recommended?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.panelook.com/S123WU01_CDTECH_12.3_LCM_overview_26051.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.mediafire.com/view/29w75kh52m7sbs2/S123WU01.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="571c935c-1347-4669-8224-61dc03a27ffc" CreationDate="2015-11-27T02:02:59.733" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by -1 edit id of 304" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="2fa9ada0-a4de-40fc-80a2-17516a60ba10" CreationDate="2015-11-27T02:02:59.733" UserId="981" Comment="Added hyperlinks" Text="I have a LCD panel with an uncommon resolution of 1920x720 (8:3 aspect). Now, I need a LVDS controller board to use it with a HDMI connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model Number: S123WU01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Basic specs][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Datasheet][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What LVDS controller is recommended?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.panelook.com/S123WU01_CDTECH_12.3_LCM_overview_26051.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.mediafire.com/view/29w75kh52m7sbs2/S123WU01.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="79aaff0b-6ffc-4358-a684-a4bb0a8cee61" CreationDate="2015-11-27T02:04:54.953" UserId="981" Comment="10" />
  <row Id="4914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="e5305806-8994-45b8-bba4-35eca643cb15" CreationDate="2015-11-27T10:19:32.270" UserId="987" Text="i'm looking for a cherry mx blue keyboard with RGB backlighting. I'm using a razer blackwidow 2013 first rivision and i love the swithces on it. I have tryed browns but i'm not happy with the click. &#xD;&#xA;Its not for the near future so if you know keyboards that are gona launch with it be sure to add it. i have an UNLIMITED bugged for this keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4915" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="e5305806-8994-45b8-bba4-35eca643cb15" CreationDate="2015-11-27T10:19:32.270" UserId="987" Text="cherry mx blue RGB keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="e5305806-8994-45b8-bba4-35eca643cb15" CreationDate="2015-11-27T10:19:32.270" UserId="987" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="01b462f8-56b7-4de4-b96c-dda35a46ae20" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:53:05.997" UserId="203" Comment="Fixed grammar/spelling" Text="I'm looking for a Cherry MX Blue keyboard with RGB backlighting. I'm using a Razer Blackwidow 2013 first revision and I love the switches on it. I have tried MX Brown switches but I'm not happy with the click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not for the near future so if you know keyboards that are gonna launch with it be sure to add it. I have an UNLIMITED budget for this keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="01b462f8-56b7-4de4-b96c-dda35a46ae20" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:53:05.997" UserId="203" Comment="Fixed grammar/spelling" Text="Cherry MX Blue mechanical keyboard with RGB backlighting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="01b462f8-56b7-4de4-b96c-dda35a46ae20" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:53:05.997" Comment="Proposed by 203 approved by 8 edit id of 307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="680" RevisionGUID="eb6d11e2-4850-4665-b71e-483a5a6254bf" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:53:16.457" UserId="45" Comment="mention SPCR and list background articles" Text="Use this tag for questions where low noise is a focus: questions asking for hardware parts that must be near-silent, or for hardware parts specifically designed to reduce noise (e.g. sound dampeners for a computer case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### External resources&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Silent PC Review](http://silentpcreview.com/) has a wealth of information about building quiet computers, including both general guides and reviews of specific parts.&#xD;&#xA;    * General advice: [What is a silent computer?](http://www.silentpcreview.com/What_is_a_silent_computer); [Introduction to recommended/silent components](http://www.silentpcreview.com/article26-page1.html); [list of introductory articles](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section5.html); [list of silent PC building guides](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section21.html)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:case]: [list of articles about cases and damping](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section9.html); [Case basics and recommendations](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Case_Basics_and_Recommendations)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:cooling]: [Anatomy of the silent fan](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Anatomy_of_the_Silent_Fan); [Recommended fans](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Fans); [list of articles about fans](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section12.html)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:heat-sink]: [Recommended heatsinks](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Heatsinks)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:power-supply]: [list of articles about power supplies](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section10.html); [Power supply fundamentals](http://www.silentpcreview.com/article28-page1.html); [Power supply recommendations](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_PSUs)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:graphics-cards]: [list of articles about graphics cards](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section22.html)&#xD;&#xA;    * [tag:hard-disk]: [list of articles about storage](http://www.silentpcreview.com/section13.html); [Recommended hard drives](http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Hard_Drives)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="680" RevisionGUID="eb6d11e2-4850-4665-b71e-483a5a6254bf" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:53:16.457" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 8 edit id of 305" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1380" RevisionGUID="7202de66-f7b2-41ca-92bc-3a9c11e3aae5" CreationDate="2015-11-27T12:12:46.383" UserId="769" Text="MX Blue switches are known to have the most tactile feedback and loudest click of Cherry's MX range. If you are using it for gaming (which from the razer I am guessing you are), you want to be looking at the MX Cherry Red Keyboards. These have light feedback and a quieter click, allowing for a much smoother game. There is a good answer explaning on [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot find many Cherry MX Blue RGB keyboards as these are generally designed for gamers and gamers tend to use MX Red. There was the Corsair K70 and K95 RGB MX Cherry blue keyboards, however these are available on the corsair website but seem to have been discontinued in many stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest the equivalent [Corsair K70 RGB Mechanical Keyboard][2]. It has Cherry MX Red switches for smooth gaming and fully programmable RGB backlighting, it also has alot of effects on the lighting and solid software to do this. It is also the latest 2016 edition just released so no worries of a newer version arriving soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2788814/cherry-blue-brown-switches-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aircraft-Grade-CH-9000119-NA/dp/B014W1Z4LC/ref=zg_bs_402051011_13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1367" RevisionGUID="24bd73a2-7bc9-44e5-874e-2a16683784e3" CreationDate="2015-11-27T12:30:47.990" UserId="987" Comment="made it so it fit the question more" Text="The [Aten 4-Port USB Peripheral Sharing][1] Device should work with your keyboard and mouse also i has a 9 usb port version. It has a lot of wires and its messy but should work with your setup&lt;br&gt;This doesn't have Hdmi so if your old KVM still works i would add that to the mix it has a wired button which is not the best but could do&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also its recommende to stick it down to you pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its small and not very expensive i think this should fit your needs/comes closest to fitting your needs. it sells for about 50 Dollars at amazone.com and added a link for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a usb 2.0 KVM so make sure your keyboard and mouse can run over that type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Edit&lt;/b&gt;: I found the HDMI version of this product with 2 usb ports. the link you can find [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the instructions that should fix the problems with is. I hope this helps you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking for something to allow me to have less clutter on my desk for gaming. I wanted a single mouse and keyboard for both my pc and consoles when I game. I did not want to have to unplug and replug my mouse and keyboard when switching between the two. I did a week of research trying to find the perfect KVM switch for a price that I can justify (I really didn't want to spend $300+). One issue I read about was that with the cheaper ones, they were not compatible with gaming mice and keyboards, that if you use them you would lose functionality or they just won't work. With this KVM I was able to use my Corsair Vengeance K70 keyboard and M65 mouse just fine after some tweaking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first plugged everything in, both mouse and keyboard did not work. What I had to do was plug my mouse and keyboard directly into my computer. Make sure the KVM was completely unplugged. While holding the port selector button I plugged in one of the purple USB plugs into my computer to enter firmware update mode (this is indicated by both port LEDs on the KVM blinking in unison). Visit the Aten's website and specifically look up the CS692 and download the latest firmware update. Run the program and update the KVM (if it fails make sure the kvm is still in update mode, if not reenter it). Now unplug the KVM and your mouse and keyboard from the computer. Plug the mouse and keyboard into the KVM and a set of the USB cords coming from the KVM into the computer. Make sure the KVM was selected to the correct port. I had to put my keyboard into BIOS mode. Press [Scroll Lock]&gt;[Scroll Lock]&gt;[m]&gt;[Enter] to get the mouse to register. Press [Scroll Lock]&gt;[Scroll Lock]&gt;[n]&gt;[Enter] to get the keyboard to work in non-bios mode. After that everything has been working great and I really enjoy the ease of my new setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now for anyone who wants to use this with the XIM4, it gets kinda finicky. Make sure the black USB is plugged into Port 1, and the purple into Port 2. Have the KVM switched to the XIM4 prior to turning on the console, or switch it over and unplug and replug the XIMs USB to the console to reset it or your mouse will never mount to the XIM. Also with this specific keyboard I had to use it in BIOS mode because the XIM doesn't fully support it, not anything to do with the KVM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how compatible this KVM will be with future gaming mice and keyboards but when I was looking at Aten's site, it appears they are releasing firmware updates once a year to ensure compatibility with newer devices. I will update this review if my KVM starts to malfunction or if I discover something wrong with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far this was a great purchase and I couldn't be happier. Did exactly what I wanted. I would highly recommend this KVM for those who need compatibility with gaming peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I only tested the keyboard and mouse functionality. I didn't bother with the audio, or HDMI because I did not need it for what I was doing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Peripheral-Sharing-Device-US424/dp/B00B1SENTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448543695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Aten%20US424&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-CS692-2-Port-Video-Switch/dp/B0045T0JVC/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448627193&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=hdmi%20kvm%20usb&amp;refinements=p_72%3A1248880011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4927" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="9206bf5b-f4b3-4e9d-85e1-289dddce28bc" CreationDate="2015-11-27T12:45:58.560" UserId="987" Comment="Fixed stuff" Text="Here are 2 cases that you may be able to use for a double power supply. The Thermaltake Core X9 is a solid metal case meant for pc's with EATX support. it modulair and you can probably fit a dual ATX PSU in. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC 4U-4310L is a server rack with support for a redundant power supply. this also has hot swap ports and is a 4u form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are not the cheapest cases that there are in the marked. but i think that in these you can fit your pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you want a case with no hassle then you can get the Thermaltake Core X9. also this one looks the best and has good ventilation.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;if you want a rack server you could go with the IPC one but it doesn't support 2 full atx power supplies but a redundant power supply (this means one set of cables etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you want to go on the cheap you can mod any cube form factor case to fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall i would pick the Thermaltake Core x9 because it can have an extra PSU install in at and if you get 2 it can get 4 of the badboys in there. also it's small so you can fit it anywhere with ease wich means hassle free&#xD;&#xA;installation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="a6fb4ede-1d6a-40e0-9d9c-9c1a2cfc1ae2" CreationDate="2015-11-27T13:43:29.557" UserId="987" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a Cherry MX Blue keyboard with RGB backlighting. I'm using a Razer Blackwidow 2013 first revision and I love the switches on it. I have tried MX Brown switches but I'm not happy with the click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not for the near future so if you know keyboards that are gonna launch with it be sure to add it. I have an UNLIMITED budget for this keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's gona be used for games but mostly for the typing of stuff. i'm a heavy typer so i would like to get one where the leggs don't pop off. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="4152f793-89da-4fce-9629-761ecfc5fa07" CreationDate="2015-11-27T14:02:16.157" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="Here are 2 cases that you may be able to use for a double power supply. The Thermaltake Core X9 is a solid metal case meant for pc's with EATX support. it modulair and you can probably fit a dual ATX PSU in. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The IPC 4U-4310L is a server rack with support for a redundant power supply. this also has hot swap ports and is a 4u form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are not the cheapest cases that there are in the marked. But I think that in these you can fit your pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you want a case with no hassle then you can get the Thermaltake Core X9. also this one looks the best and has good ventilation.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;if you want a rack server you could go with the IPC one but it doesn't support 2 full atx power supplies but a redundant power supply (this means one set of cables etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you want to go on the cheap you can mod any cube form factor case to fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall i would pick the Thermaltake Core x9 because it can have an extra PSU install in at and if you get 2 it can get 4 of the badboys in there. also it's small so you can fit it anywhere with ease wich means hassle free&#xD;&#xA;installation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="1290" RevisionGUID="b228c629-dc54-454c-9258-fa458604650d" CreationDate="2015-11-27T14:02:22.173" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="4936" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="3a52afa0-4edf-45c4-897f-0119c7551ef9" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:16:00.057" UserId="-1" Comment="6" />
  <row Id="4937" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="570" RevisionGUID="3ecec2d9-0e8a-40a6-a8ec-b0670da83264" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:16:00.057" UserId="-1" Comment="7" />
  <row Id="4938" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1380" RevisionGUID="132b45e5-dc7e-49e0-93f1-ac5d86e7ede4" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:31:02.703" UserId="769" Comment="Grammar and more clear reading" Text="MX Blue switches are known to have the most tactile feedback and loudest click of Cherry's MX range. If you are using it for gaming (which from the razer I am guessing you are), you want to be looking at the MX Cherry Red Keyboards. These have light feedback and a quieter click, allowing for a much smoother game. There is a good answer explaning on [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You cannot find many Cherry MX Blue RGB keyboards as RGB keyboards these are generally designed for gamers and gamers tend to use MX Red. There was the Corsair K70 and K95 RGB MX Cherry blue keyboards, however these are available on the corsair website but seem to have been discontinued in many stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest the equivalent [Corsair K70 RGB Mechanical Keyboard][2]. It has Cherry MX Red switches for smooth gaming and fully programmable RGB backlighting, it also has alot of effects on the lighting and solid software to do this. It is also the latest 2016 edition just released so no worries of a newer version arriving soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2788814/cherry-blue-brown-switches-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aircraft-Grade-CH-9000119-NA/dp/B014W1Z4LC/ref=zg_bs_402051011_13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1321" RevisionGUID="7c859185-86ca-474f-b18e-d371ca93a575" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:31:24.657" UserId="476" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="[Dell Inspiron 15 5000](http://www.dell.com/au/p/inspiron-15-5558-laptop/pd?oc=y510451au&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5558-laptop)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Price: 1200 AUD w/o discounts -&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Score: 85.7% (B+)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 5400RPM HDD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 5500U **++**&#xD;&#xA; - Geforce 920M 4GB DDR3 **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 15.6&quot; **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 768p **-**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **++**&#xD;&#xA; - 100 Mbps RJ45 Ethernet Port **+**&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;7 hours of battery life&quot; -*Dell* **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 0.94 inches thick (IMO, that's portable) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Disk Drive **+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1382" RevisionGUID="636bbf93-6993-461b-b01d-d02200d31bc0" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:45:20.397" UserId="912" Text="Josh Spoors does a great explanation on the different switches, so I'm not going to do it again. But what I am going to do is to recommend you a product. Since the K70 RGB with Blue Switch is discontinued, there is another great product. Let me introduce you to the [GSkill KM780 RGB][1] with the Cherry MX Blue switch. GSkill is new to the keyboard market but is a very good player in the RAM industry. Their first attempt at a keyboard is great. It is solidly built, comes with genuine Cherry MX Switches, and has almost all the features a K70 has. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gskill.com/en/press/view/g-skill-announces-availability-of-new-cherry-rgb-mx-mechanical-gaming-keyboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1383" RevisionGUID="3de0a2d6-1b9c-4e9b-afc2-84fdc7d43e27" CreationDate="2015-11-27T17:26:01.120" UserId="8" Text="&lt;b&gt;Hardware Recommendations Stack Exchange&lt;/b&gt; is a question and answer site for people seeking specific hardware recommendations (what counts as &quot;hardware&quot; is set out in http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware). It's built and run &lt;i&gt;by you&lt;/i&gt; as part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt; network of Q&amp;amp;A sites. With your help, we're working together to build a library of detailed answers to every question about hardware recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="99217aec-db7d-4c70-a683-95abcb54a9ff" CreationDate="2015-11-27T21:19:13.903" UserId="-1" Comment="Improve wording and grammar" Text="I want to buy a QWERTY keyboard which has features like the [Razer Deathstalker Switchblade UI](http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathStalker-Ultimate-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B008YRITPO). It must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Customizable touch input&#xD;&#xA; - Standard US QWERTY keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA; - Wired USB&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, I want a cheaper version of the Deathstalker. Is there any keyboard that meets these criteria?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4947" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="486" RevisionGUID="99217aec-db7d-4c70-a683-95abcb54a9ff" CreationDate="2015-11-27T21:19:13.903" Comment="Proposed by 62.255.26.46|05f697c1-68ee-42c7-8d32-ad5048115fd4 approved by 1 edit id of 308" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1384" RevisionGUID="5d956338-03c4-43dd-8767-ee5a3ecaf35d" CreationDate="2015-11-27T22:05:52.557" UserId="241" Text="I did some testing with a Radeon 5770.  In my judgment, it's massive overkill for your uses, but since you're worried about performance, overkill is good.  You don't mention what you're doing with WebGL, so I tested it by activating compositing and then running a few pages from a Google search for &quot;WebGL benchmark&quot;.  Everything performed smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the 5770 is an old card (you can probably find one used for $50 or less).  Newer cards from AMD that should offer similar performance are the R7 250 and R7 360 cards, both of which are [reportedly well-supported by the open-source drivers][1].  Newegg offers an R7 250 for $70 and an R7 360 for $99, so you should be able to find something suitable at the European retailer of your choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.x.org/wiki/RadeonFeature/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="275f1b2c-360b-4066-95c1-22fb47c9be21" CreationDate="2015-11-27T23:17:41.410" UserId="527" Text="I want to order a 64GB microSD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at the Samsung cards, because according to some reviews, they may offer slightly better performance than some other brands, like SanDisk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MB-M**P**64DA/AM has over [14,000 reviews on Amazon][1], most of which are positive.  On Samsung's own website, the [reviews are rather dismal][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM [currently has only two Amazon reviews][3], one negative and one positive.  The negative review claims that the write speed is horrible, and I don't know if that was just a measurement error.  On Samsung's own website, there are [currently no reviews][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm reading the specs correctly, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM *should be* the better card for high speed use.  It is classified as EVO+ instead of just EVO, but the specs on Samsung's website are very unclear.  For the MB-M**C**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 80MB/s read&quot; and &quot;up to 20MB/s write&quot;, whereas for the MB-M**P**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 48MB/s&quot; (they don't break down read and write for that card, making comparison problematic).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite the fact that very few people seem to be buying it, would you recommend the MB-M**C**64DA/AM over the M**B**-MP64DA/AM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVPU7AO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MP64DA/AM&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01273JZMG&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MC64DA/AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="275f1b2c-360b-4066-95c1-22fb47c9be21" CreationDate="2015-11-27T23:17:41.410" UserId="527" Text="Recommendation for a 64GB microSD card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="275f1b2c-360b-4066-95c1-22fb47c9be21" CreationDate="2015-11-27T23:17:41.410" UserId="527" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1386" RevisionGUID="45aea501-6d2d-458d-9034-1a1b5798cee1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:01:06.537" UserId="1074" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 1500 RON (possible 1700 if needed to meet performance requirements)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SLI/Crossfire:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Monitors:** 1 x 24&quot; with VGA (+DVI adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Connectors/length/noise:** not an issue/will adapt other parts" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1386" RevisionGUID="45aea501-6d2d-458d-9034-1a1b5798cee1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:01:06.537" UserId="1074" Text="New Gaming System - GPU [Romania]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1386" RevisionGUID="45aea501-6d2d-458d-9034-1a1b5798cee1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:01:06.537" UserId="1074" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1387" RevisionGUID="d1425ec8-6ce0-4907-bd6d-0ab22241a38c" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:12:03.433" UserId="1074" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 800 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Architecture:** Intel Skylake&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Noise (heatsink fan):** not an issue" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1387" RevisionGUID="d1425ec8-6ce0-4907-bd6d-0ab22241a38c" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:12:03.433" UserId="1074" Text="New Gaming System - CPU [Romania]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1387" RevisionGUID="d1425ec8-6ce0-4907-bd6d-0ab22241a38c" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:12:03.433" UserId="1074" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1388" RevisionGUID="56bee701-9b34-4c91-9539-1881513e13f5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:26:20.023" UserId="1074" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 800 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Socket:** 1151&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** 1 x PCIe x16 (ideally the board layout would not have a long card hitting/covering anything on the board)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Slots for:** 1 x wireless adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** 1 x HDD SATA 2 &amp; 1 x SSD SATA 3 (no RAID)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory:** 2x 4GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB:** front 2x 3.0 / back min 2x 3.0 / back total 6x 2.0/3.0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1388" RevisionGUID="56bee701-9b34-4c91-9539-1881513e13f5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:26:20.023" UserId="1074" Text="New Gaming System - Motherboard [Romania]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1388" RevisionGUID="56bee701-9b34-4c91-9539-1881513e13f5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:26:20.023" UserId="1074" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1390" RevisionGUID="886b8ef5-931f-4094-bf43-2884bec6d518" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:41:17.707" UserId="1074" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Format:** ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Color:** Black/Dark grey&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Design:** Simple, no LEDs, no side panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Internal:** Should fit the largest GPU (newest models) &amp; as screwless as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooling:** Air cooled, min 2 front fans &amp; 1 back fan as large as possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1390" RevisionGUID="886b8ef5-931f-4094-bf43-2884bec6d518" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:41:17.707" UserId="1074" Text="New Gaming System - Case [Romania]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1390" RevisionGUID="886b8ef5-931f-4094-bf43-2884bec6d518" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:41:17.707" UserId="1074" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1390" RevisionGUID="e6f8671b-b6f4-456d-87a5-b2fa8e00c3e8" CreationDate="2015-11-28T09:15:19.623" UserId="1074" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 700&#xD;RON&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Format:** ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Color:** Black/Dark grey&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Design:** Simple, no LEDs, no side panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Internal:** Should fit the largest GPU (newest models) &amp; as screwless as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooling:** Air cooled, min 2 front fans &amp; 1 back fan as large as possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1391" RevisionGUID="db9740a7-018b-42c8-9bf4-b7945af784f8" CreationDate="2015-11-28T10:35:23.727" UserId="1106" Text="I am looking for a solution for computer workstations with fit the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Workstation will start into a app hosted from citrix&#xD;&#xA; 2. Workstation will not have a OS installed on it &#xD;&#xA; 3. Be able to make changes to the OS and have the changes automatically rolled out to the workstations&#xD;&#xA; 4. Several USB devices supported by workstation and usable with citrix application&#xD;&#xA; 5. Wake-on-Lan&#xD;&#xA; 6. As little as hardware as possible (Or as cheap as possible)&#xD;&#xA; 7. And of course it has to be a reliable solution that could be used in a production environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I have looked into the raspberry pi with a sort pxe setup using u-boot. Downside is then it does not support a pxe setup out of the box, so a SD card would also be needed per device. I have not yet tested it and I am not 100% sure how stable and reliable it would be, but if one device would get wrecked, it would also be really easy and cheap to have a backup ready and simply replace it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1391" RevisionGUID="db9740a7-018b-42c8-9bf4-b7945af784f8" CreationDate="2015-11-28T10:35:23.727" UserId="1106" Text="Loading PC OS from network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1391" RevisionGUID="db9740a7-018b-42c8-9bf4-b7945af784f8" CreationDate="2015-11-28T10:35:23.727" UserId="1106" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1391" RevisionGUID="1bbbfd84-9dd7-48d9-9dee-71d602b118ce" CreationDate="2015-11-28T10:45:02.097" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1390" RevisionGUID="c114233e-5d09-4342-a539-7c2abe1663f6" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:03:51.197" UserId="1074" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage) / **EDIT:** Also using emag.ro (top-left &quot;Oferta Produse&quot; -&gt; &quot;PC, Periferice &amp; Software&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 700&#xD;&#xA;RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Format:** ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Color:** Black/Dark grey&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Design:** Simple, no LEDs, no side panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Internal:** Should fit the largest GPU (newest models) &amp; as screwless as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooling:** Air cooled, min 2 front fans &amp; 1 back fan as large as possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1388" RevisionGUID="1ed0af31-ca5d-47bc-a5bb-7d3b2ca14330" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:04:02.893" UserId="1074" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage) / **EDIT:** Also using emag.ro (top-left &quot;Oferta Produse&quot; -&gt; &quot;PC, Periferice &amp; Software&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 800 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Socket:** 1151&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** 1 x PCIe x16 (ideally the board layout would not have a long card hitting/covering anything on the board)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Slots for:** 1 x wireless adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** 1 x HDD SATA 2 &amp; 1 x SSD SATA 3 (no RAID)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory:** 2x 4GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB:** front 2x 3.0 / back min 2x 3.0 / back total 6x 2.0/3.0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1387" RevisionGUID="51a80fd4-4830-45bb-a19e-8f14ad667902" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:04:16.130" UserId="1074" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage) / **EDIT:** Also using emag.ro (top-left &quot;Oferta Produse&quot; -&gt; &quot;PC, Periferice &amp; Software&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 800 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Architecture:** Intel Skylake&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Noise (heatsink fan):** not an issue" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1386" RevisionGUID="4b07e156-7a5f-4e2e-bc75-63af9448c26f" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:04:27.853" UserId="1074" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage) / **EDIT:** Also using emag.ro (top-left &quot;Oferta Produse&quot; -&gt; &quot;PC, Periferice &amp; Software&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 1500 RON (possible 1700 if needed to meet performance requirements)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SLI/Crossfire:** No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Monitors:** 1 x 24&quot; with VGA (+DVI adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Connectors/length/noise:** not an issue/will adapt other parts" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1397" RevisionGUID="90b3c06b-c722-4624-a0ad-82284318b2d5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:28:47.130" UserId="1074" Text="I'm building a system to play the latest games at max settings at 1920x1080 and get as close to 30 FPS as possible within the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is that the website I'm buying from is in Romanian, so using it depends on how patient you are with a few translations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Location:** Romania, Bucharest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Site of choice:** dc-shop.ro (&quot;Componente &amp; Monitoare&quot; from the homepage) / **EDIT:** Also using emag.ro (top-left &quot;Oferta Produse&quot; -&gt; &quot;PC, Periferice &amp; Software&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Part requirements--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price limit:** 300 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Size:** min 120 GB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1397" RevisionGUID="90b3c06b-c722-4624-a0ad-82284318b2d5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:28:47.130" UserId="1074" Text="New Gaming System - SSD [Romania]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1397" RevisionGUID="90b3c06b-c722-4624-a0ad-82284318b2d5" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:28:47.130" UserId="1074" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1369" RevisionGUID="8e56f3f8-02e0-4da1-81dd-dd2fe1e89a41" CreationDate="2015-11-28T11:55:18.147" UserId="581" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="There are a couple Coolermaster, Corsair (AX and RM) and EVGA series power supplies that disable their fan under low load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation: [EVGA SuperNova 550 G2][1] (220-G2-0550-Y1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Within budget ($80,- at [newegg][2])&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA Eco Mode: Fan does not switch on until PSU load is above 25%&#xD;&#xA; - 550 Watts, which is just above your calculated optimal.&#xD;&#xA; - 80 plus Gold for efficiency.&#xD;&#xA; - Made by &lt;strike&gt;Seasonic&lt;/strike&gt; Super Flower, which almost always guarentees a high quality PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0550-Y1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1399" RevisionGUID="3d94b8d7-381d-4690-84f0-21f39f6a43fb" CreationDate="2015-11-28T12:52:15.353" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the [XFX TS 550W 80+ Gold (P1-550G-TS3X)][1], which currently sells for £55 at CCL online. It is a non modular unit manufactured by Seasonic and rated 80+ Gold. Crucially, there are 2 6+2 pin PCIe connectors and another 2 6 pin connectors, for a total of 4 PCIe connectors; therefore it will not only support your current 970, it will also be capable of handling (subject to capacity limitations) another GTX 970 in SLI, should you choose to upgrade. It also has a 5 year warranty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cclonline.com/product/179361/P1-550G-TS3X/Power-Supplies/XFX-TS-Series-P1-550G-TS3X-550W-Power-Supply-Unit-Easy-Rail-Plus-with-Full-Wired-Cables/PSU0837/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="2f74f2c7-dfbc-415e-a08a-d1beade46128" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:37:24.773" UserId="248" Text="I am currently under the dilemma of choosing the right PSU for this build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Skylake, Core i5 6600K 3.5GHz][1] &#xD;&#xA; - RAM: HyperX Fury Black 8GB DDR4 2133MHz CL14 Dual Channel Kit &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: [MSI B150M PRO-VDH][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Some SSD + HDD, not sure at the moment how much (irrelevant)&#xD;&#xA; - Water cooling for the CPU (have not decided yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must note that I will also get a GPU in the future, and I want the PSU to work with upgrades, instead of replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also I have to ask this:*&#xD;&#xA;What is with the bronze/gold/platinum labels on the PSUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/B150M-PRO-VDH.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="2f74f2c7-dfbc-415e-a08a-d1beade46128" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:37:24.773" UserId="248" Text="Power Supply For my future build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="2f74f2c7-dfbc-415e-a08a-d1beade46128" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:37:24.773" UserId="248" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="d556b032-0546-41f3-b570-344d8e271e3f" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:44:52.433" UserId="248" Comment="deleted 16 characters in body" Text="I am currently under the dilemma of choosing the right PSU for this build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Skylake, Core i5 6600K 3.5GHz][1] &#xD;&#xA; - RAM: HyperX Fury Black 8GB DDR4 2133MHz CL14 Dual Channel Kit &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: [MSI H170A PC Mate][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Some SSD + HDD, not sure at the moment how much (irrelevant)&#xD;&#xA; - Water cooling for the CPU (have not decided yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must note that I will also get a GPU in the future, and I want the PSU to work with upgrades, instead of replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also I have to ask this:*&#xD;&#xA;What is with the bronze/gold/platinum labels on the PSUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/H170A-PC-MATE.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1401" RevisionGUID="28d2e731-788c-49c9-86cd-96132ec88e90" CreationDate="2015-11-28T15:01:41.280" UserId="66" Text="I'm looking for a laptop/tablet with the following abilities &amp; specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to play lower-intensity games like *Civilization V* and *Planetary Annihilation* (confirmation from someone who has actually played those game (s) on that particular model is a bonus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Detachable (e.g. MS Surface Book) or folding keyboard (e.g. Lenovo Yoga). Full keyboard is a plus, but if someone makes a convincing case for one with a keyboard like the Surface Pro, I'd consider it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum of 11&quot; screen (12&quot;+ preferred), minimum of Full HD, prefer 1440p-ish&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life (5+ hours minimum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft Windows OS (full edition, not Windows 8 RT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Full size Solid state drive, minimum capacity of 128GB, prefer 256+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cost of $600-800 preferred, max of $1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not looking for a high-end 'gaming' tablet, just one that will play videos and lower intensity games reasonably well with a nice screen and good battery life. DisplayPort output is a plus but not required. Not particular to any hardware manufacturer, but it cannot be Android-based or an Apple." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1401" RevisionGUID="28d2e731-788c-49c9-86cd-96132ec88e90" CreationDate="2015-11-28T15:01:41.280" UserId="66" Text="Convertible tablet/laptop for multimedia/light gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1401" RevisionGUID="28d2e731-788c-49c9-86cd-96132ec88e90" CreationDate="2015-11-28T15:01:41.280" UserId="66" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="762d66d5-25b3-4f0b-8e95-905348204805" CreationDate="2015-11-28T21:12:08.407" UserId="527" Text="I am looking for a portable digital camera with the following specific requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must easily fit in a pants pocket.  The smaller the better.  *Maximum* size: 4.5&quot; x 3&quot; x 1.5&quot; (smaller than that is better).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must have image quality and sharpness that is noticeably superior to typical point-and-shoot cameras.  I'm intentionally not stating it has to be a 1&quot; or larger sensor because I am open to [all options][1]. I want to get DSLR quality images out of a small camera (I'm interested in the result, not bragging about sensor size.)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $500 USD (on sale price is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences (none required)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A nice zoom range.  I'm flexible on this, but more range (starting at a nice wide angle) is better.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Optical view finder&#xD;&#xA; 1. Water resistance or even waterproof&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good battery life (at least 250 photos per charge)&#xD;&#xA; 1. WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not needed (okay if it has these features, but not needed)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS&#xD;&#xA; 1. Image editing within the camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="762d66d5-25b3-4f0b-8e95-905348204805" CreationDate="2015-11-28T21:12:08.407" UserId="527" Text="Portable digital camera with high quality sensor and optics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="762d66d5-25b3-4f0b-8e95-905348204805" CreationDate="2015-11-28T21:12:08.407" UserId="527" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="23bd4ad9-27d7-47de-987e-b6c886eae126" CreationDate="2015-11-28T21:56:34.640" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="62" RevisionGUID="3ad2799c-723c-4bd0-8bab-f903725d5953" CreationDate="2015-11-28T21:56:49.450" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning devices that should be waterproof. Do not use this tag to ask about water resistant devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1403" RevisionGUID="125b1901-68ba-48b3-b7e3-38f21c3ffeaf" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:02:07.550" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1404" RevisionGUID="9709e8c4-ffcd-4a01-9c1f-dbfd2677d083" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:02:07.550" UserId="155" Text="For questions about still cameras of any kind. Do not use this tag for video cameras." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1405" RevisionGUID="8ed3b934-687c-4aeb-af94-d3b5da664209" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:09:08.623" UserId="912" Text="You might want to look into the [Nikon 1 J5][1] camera. It is a DSLR grade pocket camera with interchangeable lens. MSRP of this camera is USD$399.99 so it should cost less in stores. Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Interchangeable lens using the Nikon 1 mount&#xD;&#xA; - MASP (Manual, Aperture, Shutter, Programmed Auto) modes&#xD;&#xA; - 20.8 Megapixels&#xD;&#xA; - 13.2mm x 8.8mm sensor size&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi &amp; NFC&#xD;&#xA; - 3.9in x 2.4in x 1.3in size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/nikon1/nikon-1-j5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="dc319379-1ebb-4425-97cd-d13fb1c9db42" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:13:57.537" UserId="527" Comment="added 102 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a portable digital camera with the following specific requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must easily fit in a pants pocket.  The smaller the better.  *Maximum* size: 4.5&quot; x 3&quot; x 1.5&quot; (smaller than that is better).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must have image quality and sharpness that is noticeably superior to typical point-and-shoot cameras.  I'm intentionally not stating it has to be a 1&quot; or larger sensor because I am open to [all options][1]. I want to get DSLR quality images out of a small camera (I'm interested in the result, not bragging about sensor size.)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $500 USD (on sale price is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences (none required)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A nice zoom range.  I'm flexible on this, but more range (starting at a nice wide angle) is better.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Optical view finder&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure settings (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual focus (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Water resistance or even waterproof&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good battery life (at least 250 photos per charge)&#xD;&#xA; 1. WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not needed (okay if it has these features, but not needed)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS&#xD;&#xA; 1. Image editing within the camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1405" RevisionGUID="644898a0-ae09-4b57-85e5-4a58c7eed23a" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:16:20.583" UserId="912" Comment="edited body" Text="You might want to look into the [Nikon 1 J5][1] camera. It is a DSLR grade pocket camera with interchangeable lens. MSRP of this camera is USD$499.99 so it should cost less in stores. Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Interchangeable lens using the Nikon 1 mount&#xD;&#xA; - MASP (Manual, Aperture, Shutter, Programmed Auto) modes&#xD;&#xA; - 20.8 Megapixels&#xD;&#xA; - 13.2mm x 8.8mm sensor size&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi &amp; NFC&#xD;&#xA; - 3.9in x 2.4in x 1.3in size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/nikon1/nikon-1-j5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1406" RevisionGUID="97e4a188-284a-4e67-a1ab-abae44a44d47" CreationDate="2015-11-28T22:26:16.723" UserId="912" Text="The [Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro][1] will be perfect for you. It only costs $699.99. Features it has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3200 x 1800 display&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3 inch screen&#xD;&#xA; - 256/512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/lenovo/yoga-laptop-series/yoga-3-pro-laptop/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1401" RevisionGUID="b0d33469-9dab-45f1-8a68-9d4440275de9" CreationDate="2015-11-29T01:36:32.040" UserId="66" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop/tablet with the following abilities &amp; specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to play lower-intensity games like *Civilization V* and *Planetary Annihilation* (confirmation from someone who has actually played those game (s) on that particular model is a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Detachable (e.g. MS Surface Book) or folding keyboard (e.g. Lenovo Yoga). Full keyboard is a plus, but if someone makes a convincing case for one with a keyboard like the Surface Pro, I'd consider it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum of 11&quot; screen (12&quot;+ preferred), minimum of Full HD, prefer 1440p-ish&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life (5+ hours minimum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft Windows OS (full edition, not Windows 8 RT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Full size Solid state drive, minimum capacity of 128GB, prefer 256+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cost of $600-800 preferred, max of $1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not looking for a high-end 'gaming' tablet, just one that will play videos and lower intensity games reasonably well with a nice screen and good battery life. DisplayPort output is a plus but not required. Not particular to any hardware manufacturer, but it cannot be Android-based or an Apple." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1406" RevisionGUID="f567f084-f73e-4a2a-8792-560c2b3f2ce2" CreationDate="2015-11-29T02:24:34.780" UserId="912" Comment="added 387 characters in body" Text="The [Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro][1] will be perfect for you. It only costs $699.99. Features it has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3200 x 1800 display&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3 inch screen&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core M CPU&#xD;&#xA; - 256/512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another device that fits your price range is the [HP Spectre x360][2]. This is slightly more at $799.99 ($100 more than the Yoga 3 Pro). This is the major differences between this and the Yoga 3 Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lower resolution screen (1080p)&#xD;&#xA; - Better CPU (5th Gen Core i5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/lenovo/yoga-laptop-series/yoga-3-pro-laptop/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/Laptops/hp-spectre-x360---13-4110dx-%28energy-star%29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="4fe6e1c7-fa20-4847-a6b5-2306e14f92e4" CreationDate="2015-11-29T03:49:07.823" UserId="240" Text="Disclaimer: I haven't shopped for hardware in several years, so I am pretty out of the loop in terms of what's low-end/midrange/high-end today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'm running an [HP Pavilion m9047c](http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c01183906), except that I've replaced the video card with [this Radeon HD 4870](http://www.diamondmm.com/4870pe5512-diamond-amd-ati-video-graphics-card.html) and upgraded the power supply to (I believe) 650 watts. I never added any RAM over the 3GB it came with, due to the 4GB limitation of the 32-bit CPU. The video card, while a very tight fit in the case (I had to reroute quite a few cables to get it in there) has provided satisfactory performance for any game I've installed - the latest, highest-demand ones being Skyrim, Diablo 3, and League of Legends. Well, at least I thought the performance was decent... until I went over to a friend's house and saw him playing League on a much more modern system. I had previously thought that the reason he's so much better at LoL than I am was because he's had more experience, but that day I realized that the difference between our rigs plays as much, if not more, of a part than does our skill levels. No amount of practice can make up for that gap in framerate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add to that the fact that support for Vista has ended (now I can't even get updates for Chrome anymore), and I know it's time for some upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely want to move to a 64-bit OS (haven't yet decided whether to stick with Win 7 or make the leap to 10), and go to at least 8GB of RAM. According to the Pavilion's spec sheet, it looks like the motherboard is 64-bit ready and capable of up to 2GB RAM per slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't really considered budget yet, but I want to know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. How far can I take my current system - what's the best CPU I can put on this motherboard, and are there any better graphics cards that will fit into the few slots I have? How much would they cost? If I kept the motherboard, but got a larger case, would that give me any additional options? I don't use the TV tuner card anymore, so it could also be removed for more space, if needed.&#xD;&#xA;2. Would I be better off to just build a new system? If I were to take this approach, I'd be looking for a low-cost build (as I'm fairly certain that *any* build will still be a significant step up from my current rig\*), but that won't significantly limit my options for additional upgrades in the future (empty&amp;nbsp;slots=good).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from the aforementioned software, I also have my eye on Fallout 4 as a potential near-future purchase. But I might just get that on PS4 instead, especially if its PC requirements skew a recommendation too heavily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to gaming, I also use my PC for a fair bit of web browsing, in case it matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*My phone has just as much power as this PC in every respect except for 3D graphics!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="4fe6e1c7-fa20-4847-a6b5-2306e14f92e4" CreationDate="2015-11-29T03:49:07.823" UserId="240" Text="Upgrade, or start fresh?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="4fe6e1c7-fa20-4847-a6b5-2306e14f92e4" CreationDate="2015-11-29T03:49:07.823" UserId="240" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="3cd03bf5-1772-4e5f-b8bb-9bb082d35b79" CreationDate="2015-11-29T04:50:43.290" UserId="527" Comment="added 395 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a portable digital camera with the following specific requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must easily fit in a pants pocket.  The smaller the better.  *Maximum* size: 4.5&quot; x 3&quot; x 1.5&quot; (smaller than that is better).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must have image quality and sharpness that is noticeably superior to typical point-and-shoot cameras.  I'm intentionally not stating it has to be a 1&quot; or larger sensor because I am open to [all options][1]. I want to get DSLR quality images out of a small camera (I'm interested in the result, not bragging about sensor size.)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $500 USD (on sale price is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences (none required)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A nice zoom range.  I'm flexible on this, but more range (starting at a nice wide angle) is better.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Optical view finder&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure settings (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual focus (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Water resistance or even waterproof&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good battery life (at least 250 photos per charge)&#xD;&#xA; 1. WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not needed (okay if it has these features, but not needed)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS&#xD;&#xA; 1. Image editing within the camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;Please read meta before downvoting (and consider reversing your downvotes): http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/386/recommendations-for-digital-camera-with-very-specific-features-on-topic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a bummer to get downvotes when you first take your time to ask whether or not a question is appropriate on meta.  It makes one not want to post on this SE.  :-(&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="2ac33d98-7e85-4c65-a1a2-331989f3bab4" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:08:09.283" UserId="240" Comment="Removed physical size of graphics card from scope, added potentiality of motherboard bottleneck" Text="Disclaimer: I haven't shopped for hardware in several years, so I am pretty out of the loop in terms of what's low-end/midrange/high-end today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'm running an [HP Pavilion m9047c](http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c01183906), except that I've replaced the video card with [this Radeon HD 4870](http://www.diamondmm.com/4870pe5512-diamond-amd-ati-video-graphics-card.html) and upgraded the power supply to (I believe) 650 watts. I never added any RAM over the 3GB it came with, due to the 4GB limitation of the 32-bit CPU. The video card, while a very tight fit in the case (I had to reroute quite a few cables to get it in there) has provided satisfactory performance for any game I've installed - the latest, highest-demand ones being Skyrim, Diablo 3, and League of Legends. Well, at least I thought the performance was decent... until I went over to a friend's house and saw him playing League on a much more modern system. I had previously thought that the reason he's so much better at LoL than I am was because he's had more experience, but that day I realized that the difference between our rigs plays as much, if not more, of a part than does our skill levels. No amount of practice can make up for that gap in framerate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add to that the fact that support for Vista has ended (now I can't even get updates for Chrome anymore), and I know it's time for some upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely want to move to a 64-bit OS (haven't yet decided whether to stick with Win 7 or make the leap to 10), and go to at least 8GB of RAM. According to the Pavilion's spec sheet, it looks like the motherboard is 64-bit ready and capable of up to 2GB RAM per slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't really considered budget yet, but I want to know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. How far can I take my current system - what's the best CPU I can put on this motherboard? How much better of a graphics card can I get before this motherboard becomes a bottleneck for it? How much would they cost?&#xD;&#xA;2. Would I be better off to just build a new system? If I were to take this approach, I'd be looking for a low-cost build (as I'm fairly certain that *any* build will still be a significant step up from my current rig\*), but that won't significantly limit my options for additional upgrades in the future (empty&amp;nbsp;slots=good).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from the aforementioned software, I also have my eye on Fallout 4 as a potential near-future purchase. But I might just get that on PS4 instead, especially if its PC requirements skew a recommendation too heavily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to gaming, I also use my PC for a fair bit of web browsing, in case it matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*My phone has just as much power as this PC in every respect except for 3D graphics!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1409" RevisionGUID="88c82741-7d9a-4e8f-962d-f317f02812cb" CreationDate="2015-11-29T13:03:13.473" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the [Antec High Current Gamer HCG-750M][1], a 750W, semi modular, 80+ Bronze PSU made by Seasonic. This will support any single GPU system and most dual GPU systems, with some light overclocking (up to GTX 980 or R9 380), though two of the higher end AMD GPUs will require additional capacity. The power supply is the [same platform as the M2II Evo][2], a very high quality PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;80+ certification measures the efficiency of the PSU. Silver and Gold PSUs are a few percent more efficent that Bronze PSUs, which are at least 82-85% efficent, depending on load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=PS-HCG750M&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;op=Story7&amp;reid=357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="b5d8616d-cfc5-4dca-bf90-d65d78e32e11" CreationDate="2015-11-29T18:10:46.297" UserId="1114" Text="I have a quick question about a motherboard and ram compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI X99A XPOWER AC LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130836&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 128GB (8 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400) Desktop Memory Model CMD128GX4M8B2800C14 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233814&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find this RAM in the supported list on MSI's website. I have a feeling that the page is not updated as it doesn't even list any 16gig blocks. Similarly, corsair's website lists only 2 motherboards which are asus x99 deluxe and rampage v extreme as supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just wanted to double check before investing almost $1700 on these 2 components.By the way, pcpartpicker.com does not list this ram when this board and Intel I7 5960 Haswell-E are selected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I appreciate your time and consideration in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="b5d8616d-cfc5-4dca-bf90-d65d78e32e11" CreationDate="2015-11-29T18:10:46.297" UserId="1114" Text="x99 2011-v3 motherboard and 128gig ddr4 ram compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="b5d8616d-cfc5-4dca-bf90-d65d78e32e11" CreationDate="2015-11-29T18:10:46.297" UserId="1114" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1417" RevisionGUID="7f2fd671-309e-49a5-b44a-ecf1cafed540" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:14:37.807" UserId="1115" Text="I am looking for headphones with a detachable cable, so that I can replace the cable when it breaks and get a longer / shorter cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had the Sennheiser HD 201 (about 22 Euro) before and was quite happy with them, except that the cable now broke.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had the Bose QuietComfort 25 (about 250 Euro) and was not happy with them. I wanted them because of the noise canceling, but it turned out that the pressure on my ears / the noise of the speakers when it is very silent in my room were not worth that much money for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the headphones when I am watching movies or when I lie in bed and listen to audio books / music. They should be really comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audio quality of the HD 201 was ok for me, I guess. They are already quite comfortable to wear, but the Bose Quiet Comfort 25 were a bit better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An option to use them wireless with my computer would be nice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1417" RevisionGUID="7f2fd671-309e-49a5-b44a-ecf1cafed540" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:14:37.807" UserId="1115" Text="Over-Ear Headphones with detachable cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1417" RevisionGUID="7f2fd671-309e-49a5-b44a-ecf1cafed540" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:14:37.807" UserId="1115" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="088e9d59-3b9f-4b5c-8b7d-f6879dc7ddc3" CreationDate="2015-11-29T20:26:58.913" UserId="1114" Comment="added 321 characters in body" Text="I have a quick question about a motherboard and ram compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI X99A XPOWER AC LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130836&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 128GB (8 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400) Desktop Memory Model CMD128GX4M8B2800C14 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233814&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find this RAM in the supported list on MSI's website. I have a feeling that the page is not updated as it doesn't even list any 16gig blocks. Similarly, corsair's website lists only 2 motherboards which are asus x99 deluxe and rampage v extreme as supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just wanted to double check before investing almost $1700 on these 2 components.By the way, pcpartpicker.com does not list this ram when this board and Intel I7 5960 Haswell-E are selected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I appreciate your time and consideration in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: according to this : ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type)	64 GB&#xD;&#xA;Memory Types	DDR4 1333/1600/2133&#xD;&#xA;Max # of Memory Channels	4&#xD;&#xA;Max Memory Bandwidth	68 GB/s&#xD;&#xA;ECC Memory Supported ‡ 	No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I won't be able to use 128gig.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="d2c43db7-f9d0-47f9-a4e5-bbdb3b169769" CreationDate="2015-11-29T21:01:05.157" UserId="893" Text="I am planning to improve my current PC. I am already going to buy a new RAM stick, to get 8GB of RAM, and I am going to add a SSD (probably a 120gb drive). Beyond those, I have about 300-325 to make some more improvements. My current PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/yh7899&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: MSI Z87-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory: Kingston Blu 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Drive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the part that I could improve the most? I was thinking of getting a Radeon R9 390 with 4GB, but I am not sure if that is a good idea. It is mainly for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="d2c43db7-f9d0-47f9-a4e5-bbdb3b169769" CreationDate="2015-11-29T21:01:05.157" UserId="893" Text="What is the best part to improve in this rig?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="d2c43db7-f9d0-47f9-a4e5-bbdb3b169769" CreationDate="2015-11-29T21:01:05.157" UserId="893" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1420" RevisionGUID="ed32d822-cfd3-41e4-b1cb-56a85553c2c9" CreationDate="2015-11-29T23:56:46.837" UserId="951" Text="I would go with GTX 970 (4GB DDR5 version), which is just around 325$. This is the top 10 best currently commercially available graphics card and will last you for years. The processor should not be a bottleneck, at least for now. Though I would consider, unless you have one, adding a custom CPU cooling, and adding a front/top  fan to have at least 3 - see for reference on how many is enough here: [how many fans should I have?][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://youtu.be/8OmkmluAYAQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="1d0bf09e-f180-40e3-920e-b39a2415f5a9" CreationDate="2015-11-30T00:07:10.243" UserId="951" Comment="11" />
  <row Id="5068" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="855" RevisionGUID="81e2601d-ceb1-425c-adc5-8aa8cb7d3207" CreationDate="2015-11-30T00:54:00.330" UserId="476" Comment="Removed part about other answer. Answer was deleted, and it was making this more complicated." Text="In almost any case, with a proper, modern compiler, compilation speed will increase near linearly with the number of hardware threads on your system. In the case of Microsoft compilers, even running with 8GB will be plenty fine, as they are fairly stingy with memory allocation. However, on *nix, I have capped out even 16GB with parallel make and GCC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern CPU architectures are approaching peak performance, so even three year old top-of-their-class CPUs will still perform quite adequately compared to top-of-their-class modern CPUs. On the other hand, more RAM will always have an obvious and linear benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To address your specific issues, however:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the two CPUs you specified, the difference in benchmarks is fairly marginal, with the only real big difference being the power consumption, as the i7 is rated to use about 2/3 the power. RAM, on the other hand, can be very useful, especially in the case of Java where the JVM just loves to gobble the stuff up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give you an idea ([Source][1]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 is the same speed as the i5-6600k in single-threaded applications (or at least within statistical error).  &#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 is 10-15% faster in full multithreaded workloads than the i5-6600k.  &#xD;&#xA;* The i7-6700 has slightly better memory access times than the i5-6600k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I would just go i5 and 16GB, but if you must upgrade one or the other, go for the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/501/Intel_Core_i5_i5-6600K_vs_Intel_Core_i7_i7-6700.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="52" RevisionGUID="ea988bd6-e7bb-49c2-a64a-f767c72fc6a9" CreationDate="2015-11-30T00:59:46.253" UserId="476" Comment="Removed whitespace in image" Text="There are many many more options if you build your own system, and you can then be more flexible in terms of the components and the machine that you end up with.  For example: are you looking to max out the graphics card? do you want to be able to upgrade said card relatively easily in a year? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other piece of advice is to not get too hung up on definitions.  The HTPC cases are going to be more like what you are looking for in terms of looks and are perfectly capable of being gaming rigs.  Take a look at the [Silverstone][1] cases as an example, and this one in particular for a fit in a living room:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lascala 16][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might think that one is too big, after all it fits a standard ATX case, in which case you can check out the slim models etc.  However, more space makes it easier to cool quietly and it looks just like an amp you might see as part of a normal home theater set up.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone are not the only game in town either, [Streacom][3], [Origen AE][4], [Lian Li][5], [Fractal Design][6] have some amazing looking cases and more mainstream players like Corsair ([the Bulldog][7] is coming soon as of writing this) have options on the way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of pre-built systems places like [QuietPC][8] have been offering excellent (and quiet, of course) [options][9] that would certainly fit in your living room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to whether to stack your components, I would always recommend an air gap and no direct contact - even though the heat will generally exhaust out the back a lot of the small form factor units are going to radiate heat from the case directly.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have cooked a wireless router while sitting on top of a PC and had overheating problems with an Apple TV for similar reasons.  If you must stack, then always try to have the hottest component at the top.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.silverstonetek.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UTnmZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.streacom.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.origenae.co.kr/en/index.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/htpc-chassis/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.corsair.com/en/landing/bulldog&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.quietpc.com&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.quietpc.com/sys-lora" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="dda32e92-bcb9-440a-9af2-be0438bf6535" CreationDate="2015-11-30T01:02:37.250" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1421" RevisionGUID="c91eb6dd-4178-4b7b-b7d4-6933fc532bd0" CreationDate="2015-11-30T02:49:38.990" UserId="912" Text="The clock speed of RAM doesn't affect the performance of the computer much (if at all). Running a RAM at a faster speed would increase the CAS latency, which is the amount of clock cycle lag the RAM has (lower is better). But the advantage would be a faster transfer speed. Decreasing the speed means a lower CAS latency but a slower transfer speed. For normal purposes, the different clock speeds would not have much of a difference. But if you plan on running super high performance RAMDisk (or similar applications) a faster RAM would benefit you significantly. When I choose RAM, I buy the cheapest RAM that is from a trusted brand and is aesthetically pleasing (has a nice looking heat spreader).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To choose between the Kingston Fury and the Savage, it would depend on what you want to do with the RAM. If you have a higher budget and want more overclock, go with the Savage. If you have a lower budget and/or will not overclock your RAM, go with the Fury. They really don't have a huge difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You really shouldn't have a upgrading &quot;scheme&quot;. I would usually leave 2 or more slots empty (unless I'm maxing out my RAM right when I build my computer) so I can upgrade it later. I only upgrade it when I need it (e.g. the stuff I do requires more RAM) and not in a &quot;schedule&quot; and you should do this too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1402" RevisionGUID="ad43c743-7d52-44ff-85d0-87beeb67256b" CreationDate="2015-11-30T03:29:49.547" UserId="57" Comment="Removes Meta discussion" Text="I am looking for a portable digital camera with the following specific requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must easily fit in a pants pocket.  The smaller the better.  *Maximum* size: 4.5&quot; x 3&quot; x 1.5&quot; (smaller than that is better).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Must have image quality and sharpness that is noticeably superior to typical point-and-shoot cameras.  I'm intentionally not stating it has to be a 1&quot; or larger sensor because I am open to [all options][1]. I want to get DSLR quality images out of a small camera (I'm interested in the result, not bragging about sensor size.)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $500 USD (on sale price is fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences (none required)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A nice zoom range.  I'm flexible on this, but more range (starting at a nice wide angle) is better.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Optical view finder&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure settings (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual focus (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Water resistance or even waterproof&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good battery life (at least 250 photos per charge)&#xD;&#xA; 1. WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not needed (okay if it has these features, but not needed)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS&#xD;&#xA; 1. Image editing within the camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1422" RevisionGUID="299314ec-569d-4379-829e-b7d754ec16ea" CreationDate="2015-11-30T03:36:25.090" UserId="66" Text="I would say you would be better off building a new computer. Here are the reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your CPU is probably only good for one more upgrade then it can't go any further. With a new build, you could choose a socket that you could upgrade possibly 2 or 3 more times, depending on how often and what performance you desired&#xD;&#xA;- As you mentioned, your computer uses DDR2 RAM. DDR3 and DDR4 RAM are much faster and will be avaliable for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;- A 650W power supply should be sufficient for awhile whether you upgrade or build a newer machine, provided it is of good quality&#xD;&#xA;- Your current build only has a PCIe 1.1 or 2.0 slot. From what I have read (I'm not 100% on this), a PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot without being slower except for very high end configurations such as the highest end cards or multi-card configurations such as SLI or Crossfire. Still, upgrading would provide you the option of upgrading the graphics several times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As someone else pointed out, the only parts worth saving are the power supply, optical drive, and hard drive. The case would depend on how easy it would be to put new parts in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation then would be to build a budget system, picking out the processor/chipset you want to keep and making sure the motherboard is something that will be good for awhile, as that is the component that is the biggest pain to upgrade. *However*, if you thought just upgrading the graphics card would get you by for awhile, then you could buy that as most cards will probably work in the system. Then you could take the card into a new build down the road when you thought you were ready. Keep in mind that you are more likely to bottleneck somewhere else in this instance, with a modern GPU but much older CPU and RAM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="7e5bd0b6-014e-4f88-aa0e-dae10d15b93a" CreationDate="2015-11-30T04:13:01.697" UserId="240" Comment="added much more specific qualifications" Text="Disclaimer: I haven't shopped for hardware in several years, so I am pretty out of the loop in terms of what's low-end/midrange/high-end today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'm running an [HP Pavilion m9047c](http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c01183906), except that I've replaced the video card with [this Radeon HD 4870](http://www.diamondmm.com/4870pe5512-diamond-amd-ati-video-graphics-card.html) and upgraded the power supply to (I believe) 650 watts. I never added any RAM over the 3GB it came with, due to the 4GB limitation of the 32-bit CPU. The video card, while a very tight fit in the case (I had to reroute quite a few cables to get it in there) has provided satisfactory performance for any game I've installed - the latest, highest-demand ones being Skyrim, Diablo 3, and League of Legends. Well, at least I thought the performance was decent... until I went over to a friend's house and saw him playing League on a much more modern system. I had previously thought that the reason he's so much better at LoL than I am was because he's had more experience, but that day I realized that the difference between our rigs plays as much, if not more, of a part than does our skill levels. No amount of practice can make up for that gap in framerate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add to that the fact that support for Vista has ended (now I can't even get updates for Chrome anymore), and I know it's time for some upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely want to move to a 64-bit OS (haven't yet decided whether to stick with Win 7 or make the leap to 10), and go to at least 8GB of RAM. According to the Pavilion's spec sheet, it looks like the motherboard is 64-bit ready and capable of up to 2GB RAM per slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;How far can I take my current system - what's the best CPU I can put on this motherboard? How much better of a graphics card can I get before this motherboard becomes a bottleneck for it? How much would they cost?&lt;/strike&gt; *Since my current motherboard only supports DDR2, and its maximum RAM capacity is equal to that of today's low-end retail desktops, this option is out.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I created [this build on PC Part Picker](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4xDmwP) based on the &quot;Recommended&quot; system requirements for Fallout 4 (a likely future purchase, though depending on how this question goes I may start with a build below its minimums, and get it for PS4 instead), and a few other parameters, but it's definitely well beyond my current budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've narrowed my reccomendation needs down to this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Able to (eventually) socket an i7-4790 3.6GHz, or better, CPU. Able to (eventually) support a multi-GPU setup of some kind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; At $45 after rebate, the one in the above build seems quite reasonable, so I don't see price being a concern here; this would be the long-term component. That said, I don't think I want it to be the most expensive component.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Small form factor not needed; I'm more interested in future upgradability than in saving space, and am ok with needing a full tower case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics: Lowest possible cost GPU that is compatible with selected motherboard, but that still *significantly outperforms* my current card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Or, if there's an integrated/onboard GPU that would outclass my Radeon and be more economical than a separate card, I could go that route.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; HDMI output preferred, but only need 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I generally prefer NVidia to ATI, because I find Catalyst Control Center to be counterintuitive, and somewhat glitchy (I'm only using this Radeon because it was free :).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Cheapest 64-bit Intel that is *at least as good* as my current Q6600, and fits above motherboard. I can upgrade it later if I feel it's needed. Unless you know a reason I shouldn't start with a cheap CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to gaming, I also use my PC for a fair bit of web browsing, in case that matters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5080" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="7e5bd0b6-014e-4f88-aa0e-dae10d15b93a" CreationDate="2015-11-30T04:13:01.697" UserId="240" Comment="added much more specific qualifications" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="58581415-760c-4ba7-8036-255f99d3dd9c" CreationDate="2015-11-30T05:26:26.540" UserId="527" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I want to order a 64GB microSD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at the Samsung cards, because according to some reviews, they may offer slightly better performance than some other brands, like SanDisk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MB-M**P**64DA/AM has over [14,000 reviews on Amazon][1], most of which are positive.  On Samsung's own website, the [reviews are rather dismal][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM [currently has only two Amazon reviews][3], one negative and one positive.  The negative review claims that the write speed is horrible, and I don't know if that was just a measurement error.  On Samsung's own website, there are [currently no reviews][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm reading the specs correctly, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM *should be* the better card for high speed use.  It is classified as EVO+ instead of just EVO, but the specs on Samsung's website are very unclear.  For the MB-M**C**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 80MB/s read&quot; and &quot;up to 20MB/s write&quot;, whereas for the MB-M**P**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 48MB/s&quot; (they don't break down read and write speeds for that card, making a comparison problematic).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite the fact that very few people seem to be buying it, would you recommend the MB-M**C**64DA/AM over the M**B**-MP64DA/AM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVPU7AO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MP64DA/AM&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01273JZMG&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MC64DA/AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1425" RevisionGUID="bfe1e7e0-3b05-4891-b53a-02433cb47f1c" CreationDate="2015-11-30T05:39:37.133" UserId="1120" Text="I've recently acquired a [GA-M68MT-S2][1] motherboard, which was lying unused with a friend. Just as a project, I want try and build the most powerful system possible using this as a base. This is only a hobby project, so suggestions to upgrade the board and overall system isn't what I'm looking for. I'll just experiment to see what's games I can run at max or high settings. I'll be using Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to know is: What's the highest CPU and GPU this can take? I believe the Phenom II x6 (Socket AM3) is supported. What GPU will not be bottle necked by this relatively old base config? Since the on-board GPU is an NVIDIA® GeForce 7025 / nForce 630a chipset, can I go for an 8- or 9- series? Is a Radeon a better choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been a PC gamer for over a decade, but I'm keen on getting back into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1425" RevisionGUID="bfe1e7e0-3b05-4891-b53a-02433cb47f1c" CreationDate="2015-11-30T05:39:37.133" UserId="1120" Text="What's a good PC config based on an AM3 motherboard that won't be bottlenecked?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1425" RevisionGUID="bfe1e7e0-3b05-4891-b53a-02433cb47f1c" CreationDate="2015-11-30T05:39:37.133" UserId="1120" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="6662106f-31b7-4a44-823c-0ce423ede9fb" CreationDate="2015-11-30T07:38:38.703" UserId="893" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am planning to improve my current PC. I am already going to buy a new RAM stick, to get 8GB of RAM, and I am going to add a SSD (probably a 120gb drive). Beyond those, I have about £300-325 to make some more improvements. My current PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/yh7899&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: MSI Z87-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory: Kingston Blu 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Drive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the part that I could improve the most? I was thinking of getting a Radeon R9 390 with 4GB, but I am not sure if that is a good idea. It is mainly for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1422" RevisionGUID="e4d72b50-e9aa-4296-8fc6-1363a66e6f82" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:36:37.127" UserId="66" Comment="added 522 characters in body" Text="I would say you would be better off building a new computer. Here are the reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your CPU is probably only good for one more upgrade then it can't go any further. With a new build, you could choose a socket that you could upgrade possibly 2 or 3 more times, depending on how often and what performance you desired&#xD;&#xA;- As you mentioned, your computer uses DDR2 RAM. DDR3 and DDR4 RAM are much faster and will be avaliable for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;- A 650W power supply should be sufficient for awhile whether you upgrade or build a newer machine, provided it is of good quality&#xD;&#xA;- Your current build only has a PCIe 1.1 or 2.0 slot. From what I have read (I'm not 100% on this), a PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot without being slower except for very high end configurations such as the highest end cards or multi-card configurations such as SLI or Crossfire. Still, upgrading would provide you the option of upgrading the graphics several times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As someone else pointed out, the only parts worth saving are the power supply, optical drive, and hard drive. The case would depend on how easy it would be to put new parts in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation then would be to build a budget system, picking out the processor/chipset you want to keep and making sure the motherboard is something that will be good for awhile, as that is the component that is the biggest pain to upgrade. *However*, if you thought just upgrading the graphics card would get you by for awhile, then you could buy that as most cards will probably work in the system. Then you could take the card into a new build down the road when you thought you were ready. Keep in mind that you are more likely to bottleneck somewhere else in this instance, with a modern GPU but much older CPU and RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT: In response to the question update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics: According to [this GPU hierarchy](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html), The lowest end card that is an upgrade that is nVIDIA is either a GTX 660 Ti or a GTX 760, but neither are readily available (old). The best value in a low end nVIDIA card is a GTX 950, which will run you about $135-150. An integrated Intel card *could* provide you with more performance, but it wouldn't be much of an increase over your current card and even the cheapest dedicated GPUs avaliable now would outclass it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1422" RevisionGUID="c3fed1f1-049e-4b58-9df7-b8e37324deaf" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:55:24.937" UserId="66" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I would say you would be better off building a new computer. Here are the reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your CPU is probably only good for one more upgrade then it can't go any further. With a new build, you could choose a socket that you could upgrade possibly 2 or 3 more times, depending on how often and what performance you desired&#xD;&#xA;- As you mentioned, your computer uses DDR2 RAM. DDR3 and DDR4 RAM are much faster and will be avaliable for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;- A 650W power supply should be sufficient for awhile whether you upgrade or build a newer machine, provided it is of good quality&#xD;&#xA;- Your current build only has a PCIe 1.1 or 2.0 slot. From what I have read (I'm not 100% on this), a PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot without being slower except for very high end configurations such as the highest end cards or multi-card configurations such as SLI or Crossfire. Still, upgrading would provide you the option of upgrading the graphics several times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As someone else pointed out, the only parts worth saving are the power supply, optical drive, and hard drive. The case would depend on how easy it would be to put new parts in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation then would be to build a budget system, picking out the processor/chipset you want to keep and making sure the motherboard is something that will be good for awhile, as that is the component that is the biggest pain to upgrade. *However*, if you thought just upgrading the graphics card would get you by for awhile, then you could buy that as most cards will probably work in the system. Then you could take the card into a new build down the road when you thought you were ready. Keep in mind that you are more likely to bottleneck somewhere else in this instance, with a modern GPU but much older CPU and RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT: In response to the question update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics: According to [this GPU hierarchy](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html), The lowest end card that is an upgrade that is nVIDIA is either a GTX 660 Ti or a GTX 760, but neither are readily available (old). The best value in a low end nVIDIA card is a GTX 950, which will run you about $135-150. An integrated Intel card *could* provide you with more performance, but it wouldn't be much of an increase over your current card and even the cheapest dedicated GPUs avaliable now would outclass it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1391" RevisionGUID="59fccba1-8cc1-4139-858a-75db36cbf752" CreationDate="2015-11-30T18:08:17.657" UserId="-1" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="06b9868b-7be5-45a6-935a-01eb11251188" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:18:59.573" UserId="240" Comment="removed CPU &amp; GPU from question scope; I will create separate questions for those components later." Text="I'm currently running an [HP Pavilion m9047c](http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c01183906), except that I've replaced the video card with a [Diamond Radeon HD 4870](http://www.diamondmm.com/4870pe5512-diamond-amd-ati-video-graphics-card.html), and upgraded the power supply to (I believe) 650 watts. I never added any RAM over the 3GB it came with, due to the 4GB limitation of the 32-bit OS. This video card has provided solid performance so far, but newer games are starting to demand much more than it can deliver.  &#xD;&#xA;Add to that the fact that support for Vista has ended (now I can't even get updates for Chrome anymore), and I know it's time for some upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to build a new desktop system, mostly for gaming (including modding and emulation), with a fair amount of general Internet use as well - shopping, YouTube, maybe the occasional video chat, etc.  &#xD;&#xA;I don't anticipate doing any video/sound editing, but might retouch photos now and then. I may also want to delve into some minor programming and/or web development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific overall budget set, but my plan is to start with a base system - the lowest price possible without being inferior to my current machine - then making subsequent upgrades to improve performance (in particular, the CPU and GPU will both be upgraded as soon as funds allow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the motherboard, however, I would like to get something that I can run with for not just those imminent upgrades, but for several years to come.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Requirements:###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Able to support all hardware listed in the &quot;Recommended&quot; system requirements for Fallout 4:&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 4790 3.6 GHz, or better (doesn't necessarily have to be the LGA1150 socket, if it can socket a better Intel CPU. I've been out of the marketplace for so long, I don't know how to compare two CPUs unless they're identical except for clock speed, or same architecture + more cores = better. That, and Intel is better than not-Intel. :-)&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB RAM (or more, as much as possible up to the point at which this begins to significantly impact price). High speed for RAM is also important.&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 780 3GB (honestly, I'd like for it to support a GPU that I spend $400-500 on, 2-3 years from now, as well)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Note that I will not be starting off with that CPU &amp; GPU; they're my short-term upgrade goals.&#xD;&#xA;- Nothing about the motherboard makes it inferior to the IPIBL-LA board in my old Pavilion. In particular, the Pavilion has 6 SATA connectors, 6 USB ports, 100Mb/s Ethernet, a headphone/mic jack, and an SD-Card slot. But I don't care about the PS/2 mouse &amp; keyboard ports, surround audio, 1394, or SPDIF jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Optional:###&#xD;&#xA;- Supports SLI&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;- More USB ports&#xD;&#xA;- Whatever other bells &amp; whistles the kids are putting on their motherboards these days&#xD;&#xA;- Cool-looking - I may get a windowed case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Not Required:###&#xD;&#xA;- Integrated video (except if a board with integrated video that moderately outperforms the Radeon HD 4870, costs *less* than the sum of a comparable GPU and a similar board with basic/no integrated video - but this seems unlikely)&#xD;&#xA;- Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- Small Form Factor. I am planning to get a nice, roomy case so I can add expansion cards, more drives, etc., so I'm fine with a full ATX board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$50-150 seems like a reasonable range for the motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="06b9868b-7be5-45a6-935a-01eb11251188" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:18:59.573" UserId="240" Comment="removed CPU &amp; GPU from question scope; I will create separate questions for those components later." Text="Motherboard for the long run, in an otherwise (initially) low-end gaming system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1407" RevisionGUID="06b9868b-7be5-45a6-935a-01eb11251188" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:18:59.573" UserId="240" Comment="removed CPU &amp; GPU from question scope; I will create separate questions for those components later." Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1426" RevisionGUID="80777b0a-6a0b-4071-889d-6e98eec602e7" CreationDate="2015-12-01T00:24:58.197" UserId="65" Text="I have a motion-recording camera at my front door, but when the doorbell rings, the app takes so long to come up that I'm already at the door and sometimes it just gets stuck attempting to connect (it's a Logitech Alert for the record).  I'm thinking a simple digital peephole viewer will solve the problem (no wireless/internet connection required to see the picture).  I'd like one with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* at least 640x480 resolution&#xD;&#xA;* turns on and shows picture in less than one second&#xD;&#xA;* mounts on door only in a standard peephole-sized hole (no doorbell-style button required)&#xD;&#xA;* works at least OK with backlight (I have a porch making the people poorly lit once they step up to the door)&#xD;&#xA;* no cords to plug in (probably battery powered)&#xD;&#xA;* Under $100 shipped (to USA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* motion-detection that will automatically show the picture when movement is detected in a certain area of the frame (this may be energy-prohibitive for a battery-powered device)&#xD;&#xA;* recording (SD, Wi-Fi, or App)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the ones I've seen so far on Amazon would [replace my doorbell](http://smile.amazon.com/digitharbor-peephole-shooting-Doorbell-Security/dp/B00HFJH81I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448929182&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=digital+peephole) (I'd like to avoid that in case the batteries die), they are [low resolution](http://smile.amazon.com/RioRand-degrees-Peephole-Doorbell-Security/dp/B00MP4J9KQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448929182&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=digital+peephole), they [don't work with bright backgrounds](http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002QGU8D0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=29HEG0YWROF61&amp;coliid=I3PVBXC8L1A5SY), or some combination of all of those.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1426" RevisionGUID="80777b0a-6a0b-4071-889d-6e98eec602e7" CreationDate="2015-12-01T00:24:58.197" UserId="65" Text="Digital Peephole Viewer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1426" RevisionGUID="80777b0a-6a0b-4071-889d-6e98eec602e7" CreationDate="2015-12-01T00:24:58.197" UserId="65" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="b7bf6d1d-2590-4be3-a508-5d088cc56f47" CreationDate="2015-12-01T00:43:44.317" UserId="527" Comment="edited body" Text="I want to order a 64GB microSD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at the Samsung cards, because according to some reviews, they may offer slightly better performance than some other brands, like SanDisk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MB-M**P**64DA/AM has over [14,000 reviews on Amazon][1], most of which are positive.  On Samsung's own website, the [reviews are rather dismal][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM [currently has only two useful Amazon reviews][3], one negative and one positive.  The negative review claims that the write speed is horrible, and I don't know if that was just a measurement error.  On Samsung's own website, there are [currently no reviews][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm reading the specs correctly, the MB-M**C**64DA/AM *should be* the better card for high speed use.  It is classified as EVO+ instead of just EVO, but the specs on Samsung's website are very unclear.  For the MB-M**C**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 80MB/s read&quot; and &quot;up to 20MB/s write&quot;, whereas for the MB-M**P**64DA/AM, Samsung claims &quot;up to 48MB/s&quot; (they don't break down read and write speeds for that card, making a comparison problematic).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite the fact that very few people seem to be buying it, would you recommend the MB-M**C**64DA/AM over the MB-M**P**64DA/AM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVPU7AO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MP64DA/AM&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01273JZMG&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage-accessories/MB-MC64DA/AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1422" RevisionGUID="63b159b1-88f8-4da1-8c76-0caee5eab13c" CreationDate="2015-12-01T01:18:33.350" UserId="66" Comment="added 2764 characters in body" Text="I would say you would be better off building a new computer. Here are the reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your CPU is probably only good for one more upgrade then it can't go any further. With a new build, you could choose a socket that you could upgrade possibly 2 or 3 more times, depending on how often and what performance you desired&#xD;&#xA; - As you mentioned, your computer uses DDR2 RAM. DDR3 and DDR4 RAM are much faster and will be avaliable for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA; - A 650W power supply should be sufficient for awhile whether you upgrade or build a newer machine, provided it is of good quality&#xD;&#xA; - Your current build only has a PCIe 1.1 or 2.0 slot. From what I have read (I'm not 100% on this), a PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot without being slower except for very high end configurations such as the highest end cards or multi-card configurations such as SLI or Crossfire. Still, upgrading would provide you the option of upgrading the graphics several times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As someone else pointed out, the only parts worth saving are the power supply, optical drive, and hard drive. The case would depend on how easy it would be to put new parts in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation then would be to build a budget system, picking out the processor/chipset you want to keep and making sure the motherboard is something that will be good for awhile, as that is the component that is the biggest pain to upgrade. *However*, if you thought just upgrading the graphics card would get you by for awhile, then you could buy that as most cards will probably work in the system. Then you could take the card into a new build down the road when you thought you were ready. Keep in mind that you are more likely to bottleneck somewhere else in this instance, with a modern GPU but much older CPU and RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT: In response to the question update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard and processor: You first need to decide on which socket you want to use. There are [a couple viable options](http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/what-are-intels-lga-processor-sockets/): LGA 1150, LGA 1151, and LGA 2011. Of these, LGA 2011 is older, but has seen a recent update (LGA 2011-v3, which is *not* compatible with the older LGA 2011 socket); LGA 1150 is the least advanced but the most available; and LGA 1151 is the newest, but also more expensive. The good news is that virtually any modern Core i5 or i7, and a good amount of Core i3s, that fit these sockets would be faster than a Q6600. As far as future upgrades:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 1150 will probably see the fewest future upgrades, both to chipsets and faster processors. It uses DDR3 memory exclusively, and also has the fewest USB 3.0 and 3.1 compatible motherboards. However, most motherboards range from $50-200, with a significant portion under $150, and has the most motherboards to choose from (211 on newegg.com, for example). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that fit this socket as good as a i7-4790: i7-4790K, i7-5775C, i7-4770K. *Note: some high-end i5s, such as the i5-4690K, when overclocked can beat a stock i7-4790 in performance or be so close as to be indistinguishable*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 2011 is a more narrow spectrum of processors, and more high end. Advantages include DDR4 memory, dual full-speed PCIe 3.0x16 lanes on some models, and 6-core processors with large caches. However, many of these advantages are more noticeable in rendering applications rather than gaming, or only in very specific cases. Additionally, most of these processors carry high price tags, and there aren't really entry level processors in this group (the cheapest retails for over $300)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that meet your requirements: i7-5960X, 5930K, and 5820K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 1151 provides probably the most future upgrades, provides DDR4 memory support, a fairly large selection of motherboards, and much more ubiquitous support for features like USB 3.1. Downsides are that the motherboards are predominately slightly more expensive (more between $150-200), but they do offer more entry-level processors, such as i3 and i5 processors for between $120-220.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that meet your requirements: i7-6700K, i7-6700 (limited selection of processors currently, more likely to come).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics: According to [this GPU hierarchy](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html), The lowest end card that is an upgrade that is nVIDIA is either a GTX 660 Ti or a GTX 760, but neither are readily available (old). The best value in a low end nVIDIA card is a GTX 950, which will run you about $135-150. An integrated Intel card *could* provide you with more performance, but it wouldn't be much of an increase over your current card and even the cheapest dedicated GPUs avaliable now would outclass it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two routes that I see as viable both now and longer-term: save a little money now and go with LGA 1150, or go with LGA 1151 and have a longer viable lifespan. Keep in mind that you can still build a really really good machine on LGA 1150 that will still produce impressive gaming results for years, but if you will want the possibility to stay with the latest and greatest, LGA 1151 is probably a safer bet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1422" RevisionGUID="75179c52-0502-4c51-9f94-918ef1ba0677" CreationDate="2015-12-01T01:56:17.237" UserId="66" Comment="added 2764 characters in body" Text="I would say you would be better off building a new computer. Here are the reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your CPU is probably only good for one more upgrade then it can't go any further. With a new build, you could choose a socket that you could upgrade possibly 2 or 3 more times, depending on how often and what performance you desired&#xD;&#xA; - As you mentioned, your computer uses DDR2 RAM. DDR3 and DDR4 RAM are much faster and will be avaliable for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA; - A 650W power supply should be sufficient for awhile whether you upgrade or build a newer machine, provided it is of good quality&#xD;&#xA; - Your current build only has a PCIe 1.1 or 2.0 slot. From what I have read (I'm not 100% on this), a PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot without being slower except for very high end configurations such as the highest end cards or multi-card configurations such as SLI or Crossfire. Still, upgrading would provide you the option of upgrading the graphics several times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As someone else pointed out, the only parts worth saving are the power supply, optical drive, and hard drive. The case would depend on how easy it would be to put new parts in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation then would be to build a budget system, picking out the processor/chipset you want to keep and making sure the motherboard is something that will be good for awhile, as that is the component that is the biggest pain to upgrade. *However*, if you thought just upgrading the graphics card would get you by for awhile, then you could buy that as most cards will probably work in the system. Then you could take the card into a new build down the road when you thought you were ready. Keep in mind that you are more likely to bottleneck somewhere else in this instance, with a modern GPU but much older CPU and RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT: In response to the question update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard and processor: You first need to decide on which socket you want to use. There are [a couple viable options](http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/what-are-intels-lga-processor-sockets/): LGA 1150, LGA 1151, and LGA 2011. Of these, LGA 2011 is older, but has seen a recent update (LGA 2011-v3, which is *not* compatible with the older LGA 2011 socket); LGA 1150 is the least advanced but the most available; and LGA 1151 is the newest, but also more expensive. The good news is that virtually any modern Core i5 or i7, and a good amount of Core i3s, that fit these sockets would be faster than a Q6600. As far as future upgrades:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 1150 will probably see the fewest future upgrades, both to chipsets and faster processors. It uses DDR3 memory exclusively, and also has the fewest USB 3.0 and 3.1 compatible motherboards. However, most motherboards range from $50-200, with a significant portion under $150, and has the most motherboards to choose from (211 on newegg.com, for example). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that fit this socket as good as a i7-4790: i7-4790K, i7-5775C, i7-4770K. *Note: some high-end i5s, such as the i5-4690K, when overclocked can beat a stock i7-4790 in performance or be so close as to be indistinguishable*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 2011 is a more narrow spectrum of processors, and more high end. Advantages include DDR4 memory, dual full-speed PCIe 3.0x16 lanes on some models, and 6-core processors with large caches. However, many of these advantages are more noticeable in rendering applications rather than gaming, or only in very specific cases. Additionally, most of these processors carry high price tags, and there aren't really entry level processors in this group (the cheapest retails for over $300)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that meet your requirements: i7-5960X, 5930K, and 5820K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 1151 provides probably the most future upgrades, provides DDR4 memory support, a fairly large selection of motherboards, and much more ubiquitous support for features like USB 3.1. Downsides are that the motherboards are predominately slightly more expensive (more between $150-200), but they do offer more entry-level processors, such as i3 and i5 processors for between $120-220.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Processors that meet your requirements: i7-6700K, i7-6700 (limited selection of processors currently, more likely to come).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics: According to [this GPU hierarchy](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html), The lowest end card that is an upgrade that is nVIDIA is either a GTX 660 Ti or a GTX 760, but neither are readily available (old). The best value in a low end nVIDIA card is a GTX 950, which will run you about $135-150. An integrated Intel card *could* provide you with more performance, but it wouldn't be much of an increase over your current card and even the cheapest dedicated GPUs avaliable now would outclass it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two routes that I see as viable both now and longer-term: save a little money now and go with LGA 1150, or go with LGA 1151 and have a longer viable lifespan. Keep in mind that you can still build a really really good machine on LGA 1150 that will still produce impressive gaming results for years, but if you will want the possibility to stay with the latest and greatest, LGA 1151 is probably a safer bet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifics**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Virtually any modern motherboard supports at least 8GB of RAM - indeed, I don't know of any that use either of the chipsets that support less than *16*. Basically all of them at least have a single PCIe x16 slot, which is sufficient for basically any graphics card, provided there is physical room in the case and on the board. Also, 6 SATA ports and 6 USB ports (counting connections for a front case header) are virtually standard, as is a 100MBps Ethernet connection. As far as SD slots go, virtually any will support them (usually through a SATA connection), but you'll have to be such a reader separately. With that said, I've picked a board that meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841) ($129.99). It supports: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LGA 1151 (Core i7-6700K)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 64GB Dual Channel DDR4 RAM (4 slots). Can be overclocked up to 3466 MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Three PCIe x16 slots (supports 3-way Crossfire and 2-way SLI)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 6 SATA 6Gb/s connectors, 3 SATA Express&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 6x USB ports on the back (mix of 2.0, 3.0, and 3.1). also includes 4 USB headers for the front and a USB Type-C port on the back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 10/100/1000Mbps Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Front panel audio header (headphone/mic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind I don't have specific experience with any LGA 1151 board - I picked this one because it was fairly well reviewed and met all your requirements at a decent price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1261" RevisionGUID="b6f30974-33aa-4ad2-9987-81b428532067" CreationDate="2015-12-01T01:56:22.160" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;alarm-clock&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1427" RevisionGUID="b0df8bb6-f5f4-4d8c-b163-53e9de4dae7b" CreationDate="2015-12-01T02:00:16.237" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1428" RevisionGUID="b12b7f0e-97b2-4191-9915-b5a0f6026ffc" CreationDate="2015-12-01T02:00:16.237" UserId="155" Text="For questions about standalone devices found within the home (e.g., alarm clocks) or devices directly interacting with the home (e.g., peephole cameras)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1429" RevisionGUID="2b19667b-8abd-46eb-8e6f-653ebdbf3528" CreationDate="2015-12-01T02:36:56.083" UserId="912" Text="The GTX 950 is definitely a better performance-per-dollar card than the GTX 960. The 950 costs slightly more than half the the 960 but delivers much more than half of a 960. But this doesn't mean you shouldn't buy the 960. Since you wanted to game at 1080p at 60 fps, the 950 would not be able to do that consistently on a slightly demanding title, but the 960 would be able to do that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you only want to play casual games at low to medium settings and want to save money, the 950 is what you should get. But if you want to play some more demanding titles and higher settings with a higher budget, go for the 960." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1430" RevisionGUID="8382dde4-23a3-4488-97ff-015f1f819708" CreationDate="2015-12-01T02:45:09.280" UserId="912" Text="You will not be able to use that set of RAM since the CPU doesn't support. Even though the motherboard supports 128GB of RAM, the CPU unfortunately only supports up to 64GB of RAM. The only way to max out your RAM right now is to get 8 x 8GB sticks. To support the full 128GB of RAM, you would need a Xeon CPU that works in the LGA 2011 socket." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="ab5c60e8-d18d-4ca9-a821-0d1a42e1b9fc" CreationDate="2015-12-01T07:36:03.347" UserId="893" Comment="Changed the question to make it an on-topic question" Text="I am planning to improve my current PC. I am already going to buy a new RAM stick, to get 8GB of RAM, and I am going to add a SSD (probably a 120gb drive). Beyond those, I have about £300 to make some more improvements. My current PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/yh7899&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: MSI Z87-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory: Kingston Blu 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Drive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to swap the 7870 for a R9 390. My goal is to able to play pretty much any 2014 game on Ultra (I am mainly interested in Starcraft 2, Dota 2, and Dark Souls 2) or at the very least on Very High at 1080p. My only issue is my PSU: would the CX600 be enough to power this rig if I used a R9 390?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="ab5c60e8-d18d-4ca9-a821-0d1a42e1b9fc" CreationDate="2015-12-01T07:36:03.347" UserId="893" Comment="Changed the question to make it an on-topic question" Text="Would this be a good improvement for this rig?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1418" RevisionGUID="45246442-7469-4693-bf9b-cd7541bd8fdb" CreationDate="2015-12-01T07:55:51.967" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5117" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1426" RevisionGUID="5e01f36e-f129-4765-9020-f93ef0c6e598" CreationDate="2015-12-01T08:23:18.713" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1090" RevisionGUID="aac317f6-b0b5-46e6-a255-f727d6576335" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:02:41.410" UserId="54" Comment="dot (.) made the link broken" Text="I reccomend the [Intel i5 4690k](http://ark.intel.com/products/80811/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs $240 USD, and is significantly more powerful than your current CPU. It has 4 cores, (no hyperthreading) with a base-clock of 3.5 GHz, but is unlocked and could be OC'ed to 3.9 GHz. 6 MB of cache, and the TDP is 88W (which I believe is actually lower than your current CPU).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets or exceeds the system requirements of every game you listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BF4](http://www.battlefield.com/battlefield-4/pc) recommends any quadcore intel CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Star Wars battlefront](https://www.origin.com/en-us/store/buy/star-wars-battlefront/pc-download/base-game/standard-edition) recommends an i5 6600, which has nearly identical specs, except for the lower base clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Evolve](http://store.steampowered.com/app/273350/) recommends an [i7 920](http://ark.intel.com/products/37147/Intel-Core-i7-920-Processor-8M-Cache-2_66-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI), which has twice the number of threads, but a significantly lower clock speed (2.66 GHz). I'm not sure how well Evolve utilizes the extra multi-threading capabilities, but it's probably safe to assume it will run well. (At least, as well as it can run. It's still very buggy from what I have heard).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that all of these games are far more CPU-intensive, it should also easily handle Photoshop, unity, music streaming, movies and browsing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1090" RevisionGUID="aac317f6-b0b5-46e6-a255-f727d6576335" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:02:41.410" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 309" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1131" RevisionGUID="ed642e2c-b676-4753-b640-709192b03988" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:46:59.433" UserId="54" Comment="placing the product name" Text="[Toshiba Canvio Connect II (HDTC810XK3A1)][1] external 1TB drive is on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50&#xD;&#xA; - External 1TB Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon return policy + manufacturer warranty&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with USB 3.0 standard cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC810XK3A1/dp/B00R4O9M4A/ &quot;This&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1131" RevisionGUID="ed642e2c-b676-4753-b640-709192b03988" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:46:59.433" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="e510cefc-1cee-483f-823e-7e36cc492e07" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:25:43.340" UserId="67" Comment="12" />
  <row Id="5127" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1432" RevisionGUID="c9c5d6b5-6a67-49f7-ab0c-3bb821d8e35b" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:26:38.893" UserId="1129" Text="Looking for a small notebook for 9 year old to run linux powerful enough for programming and runing Minecraft to buy my son for this Xmas, Im based in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Small enough to suit a 10 year, 13&quot; screen would be fine&#xD;&#xA;- Not to heavy, he will only be using it at home but I want it to be easy for him to move around the house.&#xD;&#xA;- He wants to learn basic programming&#xD;&#xA;- He also wants to play Minecraft&#xD;&#xA;- For these reasons and because it is requires less resources then Windows I want to install Linux, preferably Ubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;- Would better if it came installed with Linux not Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- It doesnt need to be super powerful , but at the same time its need to be powerful enough to do the tasks mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;- A matt screen would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- An SSD disk would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear I do want a proper computer with harddrive, **not a chromebook**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ive had a look at Acer, Asus and Lenevo - I think there might be a solution there but struggling to understand the range, nor can I see anything without Windows installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to spend about £300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5128" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1432" RevisionGUID="c9c5d6b5-6a67-49f7-ab0c-3bb821d8e35b" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:26:38.893" UserId="1129" Text="Looking for a small notebook for 9 year old to run linux powerful enough for Minecraft" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1432" RevisionGUID="c9c5d6b5-6a67-49f7-ab0c-3bb821d8e35b" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:26:38.893" UserId="1129" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1433" RevisionGUID="9d32e1f4-9814-444e-9ea5-da23fef6f086" CreationDate="2015-12-01T17:21:59.620" UserId="1131" Text="I remember having a keyboard, a few years back, where the columns of letters were alternately concave/convex. I have found entirely convex keyboards, but I cannot find this particular kind. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1433" RevisionGUID="9d32e1f4-9814-444e-9ea5-da23fef6f086" CreationDate="2015-12-01T17:21:59.620" UserId="1131" Text="Looking for a specific type of keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1433" RevisionGUID="9d32e1f4-9814-444e-9ea5-da23fef6f086" CreationDate="2015-12-01T17:21:59.620" UserId="1131" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="900" RevisionGUID="da073a21-3961-4e18-a570-1f4c6186a7c5" CreationDate="2015-12-01T20:12:12.490" UserId="653" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="There are a variety of notebooks that are capable of running Linux, and some even have it pre-installed by the manufacturer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Dell XPS 13- Developer edition][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lightweight notebook, but its 13.3&quot; screen size *may* be too large for you. It does however come with Ubuntu 14.04 pre-installed, so hardware support for Linux is 100%. It's a bit on the pricey side though, but probably the laptop with the highest compatibility for Linux in this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also uses the previous (but no less worthy- Intel 5th Generation Core i5 CPU) generation hardware, but however it is the smallest XPS 13&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Asus 1015E][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This netbook has a 10.1&quot; screen, so it's within your specification. It is Windows-centred, but however an Ubuntu edition *is* available; this suggests that one pre-installed with Windows can be wiped &amp; installed with Ubuntu instead without hardware incompatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However it does use outdated hardware (the [Celeron 847 it uses was first released in 2011][3]), so you might find issues running NO$SNS &amp; multitasking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; ***Mobile Broadband***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a smartphone with a data plan (and it's an extensive data plan with a significant data allowance/unlimited data), you can tether it to your netbook via a cable or WiFi. PAYG (Pay as You Go [prepay]) plans sometimes offer great deals for mobile data (my own for example, offers a week's worth of free unlimited data when I top-up), so it might be worth having a brief look at PAYG plans too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anti-Theft**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why not purchase a larger laptop &amp; get a bag-pack? Most reasonably-sized bags will fit a 15.6&quot; laptop, and is not a 'traditional laptop bag' so it is less likely to be a target for thieves (as its contents are far less obvious). Doing so would dramatically open up your options for your new laptop, plus it will last far longer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-linux/pd?dgc=BA&amp;cid=290020&amp;lid=5562124&amp;acd=12309215118294297&amp;ven3=876003074094715159&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Notebooks/1015E/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/56056/Intel-Celeron-Processor-847-2M-Cache-1_10-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="7ecc5cbc-0d17-4c7b-813e-c46582d288f4" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:58:30.980" UserId="951" Text="In [this question][1] I received the response to which graphics model should I go with. Now, as I started calculating using [this decibel calculator][2], the fact that I am trying to buy quiet 8.9 dB fans (total = 20.9 dB) will be negligable if a graphics card will generate 36 dB (which is what I found [here][3]) - than the total noise will be 37.081 dB.&#xD;&#xA;However, on [Tomshardware][4] I found this to be more nuanced, but also incomplete (no MSI card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What graphics card manufacturer would you recommend for GTX960 noise-wise (the price differences are negligible)? Or maybe there are other considerations under 250$ for gaming setup (i5-6500, 8GB ram, 240GB SDD, 4 140mm fans, MSI170 pro gaming mobo, 1280 x 1024 res) that are significantly quieter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1233/ultra-graphics-performance-for-a-penny&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-coherentsources.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-oc-review,10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="7ecc5cbc-0d17-4c7b-813e-c46582d288f4" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:58:30.980" UserId="951" Text="Graphics card with quiet fans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="7ecc5cbc-0d17-4c7b-813e-c46582d288f4" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:58:30.980" UserId="951" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="24ea35b3-42a8-4222-bdba-c896308793a0" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:46:06.090" UserId="425" Text="The latest Appale notebook does not have any built-in DVD drive and they Apple only sell a DVD drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any external drive which is similar to the SuperDrive for Apple Mc Book Pro but able to read (and possibly write) bluray disc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found several bluray drives but they do not look so &quot;portable&quot; as you need a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if it would be possible to have such drive like the Apple SuperDrive DVD which is power alimented just by an USB cable.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="24ea35b3-42a8-4222-bdba-c896308793a0" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:46:06.090" UserId="425" Text="Bluray for Apple MacBook Pro Retina (self alimented by USB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="24ea35b3-42a8-4222-bdba-c896308793a0" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:46:06.090" UserId="425" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;&lt;dvd-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1321" RevisionGUID="0c606b50-2932-46a6-b50e-c88c69e8714b" CreationDate="2015-12-02T01:24:23.587" UserId="476" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="[Dell Inspiron 15 5000](http://www.dell.com/au/p/inspiron-15-5558-laptop/pd?oc=y510451au&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5558-laptop)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Price: 1200 AUD w/o discounts (-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Score: 85.7% (B+)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 5400RPM HDD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 5500U **++**&#xD;&#xA; - Geforce 920M 4GB DDR3 **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 15.6&quot; **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen is 768p **-**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **++**&#xD;&#xA; - 100 Mbps RJ45 Ethernet Port **+**&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;7 hours of battery life&quot; -*Dell* **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 0.94 inches thick (IMO, that's portable) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Disk Drive **+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1437" RevisionGUID="6a6ce233-4406-4a18-8d2b-c047837cfe6b" CreationDate="2015-12-02T01:55:32.480" UserId="461" Text="I naively originally thought the title's request would be too vague, what with the hundreds of different android smart phones out there, but I'm having trouble finding one that comes rooted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case there are many phones to choose from, I'd go with a minimum of 1GB of RAM, 16GB of Flash, a uSD slot, GPS, and Wifi.  I don't actually need/care about the cell-phone part itself, nor the cameras." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1437" RevisionGUID="6a6ce233-4406-4a18-8d2b-c047837cfe6b" CreationDate="2015-12-02T01:55:32.480" UserId="461" Text="rooted android phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1437" RevisionGUID="6a6ce233-4406-4a18-8d2b-c047837cfe6b" CreationDate="2015-12-02T01:55:32.480" UserId="461" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1437" RevisionGUID="715ac98f-6429-456d-915d-5489dcf20a89" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:04:13.280" UserId="1" Comment="added 32 characters in body; edited title" Text="I naively originally thought the title's request would be too vague, considering the hundreds of different Android smart phones out there, but I'm having trouble finding one that comes rooted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case there are many phones to choose from, I'd go with a minimum of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  1GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; -  16GB of flash storage&#xD;&#xA; -  a uSD slot&#xD;&#xA; -  GPS and WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't actually need/care about the cell-phone part itself, nor the cameras." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1437" RevisionGUID="715ac98f-6429-456d-915d-5489dcf20a89" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:04:13.280" UserId="1" Comment="added 32 characters in body; edited title" Text="Rooted Android phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1432" RevisionGUID="b92e2bbe-dcd3-4166-aa55-7a92dcae0160" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:07:23.283" UserId="1" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a small notebook for 9 year old to run Linux powerfully enough for programming and runing Minecraft to buy my son for this Christmas. I'm based in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Small enough to suit a 10 year old, a 13&quot; screen would be fine&#xD;&#xA;- Not too heavy, he will only be using it at home but I want it to be easy for him to move around the house.&#xD;&#xA;- He wants to learn basic programming&#xD;&#xA;- He also wants to play Minecraft&#xD;&#xA;- For these reasons, and because it requires less resources then Windows, I want to install Linux, preferably Ubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;- Would better if it came installed with Linux, not Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- It doesn't need to be super powerful, but at the same time it should be powerful enough to do the tasks mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;- A matte screen would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- An SSD would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear, I do want a proper computer with a hard drive, **not a Chromebook**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ive had a look at Acer, Asus and Lenovo - I think there might be a solution there, but I'm struggling to understand the range, nor can I see anything without Windows installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to spend about £300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1432" RevisionGUID="b92e2bbe-dcd3-4166-aa55-7a92dcae0160" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:07:23.283" UserId="1" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited title" Text="Looking for a small notebook for 9 year old to run Linux powerfully enough for Minecraft" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="0e8359fe-9eff-4d4f-9623-32323eeb658f" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:09:14.823" UserId="1" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="The latest Apple notebooks do not have any built-in DVD drive, and Apple only sells a DVD drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any external drive which is similar to the external SuperDrive for the MacBook Pro, but is able to read (and possibly write to) Blu-ray discs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found several Blu-ray drives, but they do not look so &quot;portable&quot; as you need a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if it would be possible to have such drive like the Apple External SuperDrive DVD which is powered just by an USB cable.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5152" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="0e8359fe-9eff-4d4f-9623-32323eeb658f" CreationDate="2015-12-02T05:09:14.823" UserId="1" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="Blu-ray played for Retina MacBook Pro (powered through USB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1439" RevisionGUID="60a4b8a9-90e5-46ec-be9d-a97a470f2a71" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:31:09.323" UserId="769" Text="I would suggest the [Monster DNAs][1] for about £100 so around 130 euros, these headphones are a comfortable set of over ear headphones, with a tangle free detatchable cable. They are made of plastic, however they are extremely sturdy and will bend to almost straight without being damaged. The pieces are designed to pop out before snapping allowing easy reassembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also look pretty cool, available in a range of colours and come in a nice box with travel bag. Another cool feature of these is the Music sharing feature, the headphones have 2 3.5mm jacks in series, so if you have music playing through your headphones, someone else can plug their headphone sinto yours and you can both listen to the same track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monster-DNA-On-Ear-Headphones-Carbon-Fiber-Black/dp/B00E7L2LQE/ref=pd_cp_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0262VMS7EYW02KV3SEBV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5158" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1439" RevisionGUID="2edf1921-1fbb-40f2-82b1-0eb167297ea6" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:12:52.000" UserId="769" Comment="fixed wording" Text="I would suggest the [Monster DNAs][1] for about £100 so around 130 euros, these headphones are a comfortable set of on-ear headphones, with a tangle free detatchable cable. They are made of plastic, however they are extremely sturdy and will bend to almost straight without being damaged. The pieces are designed to pop out before snapping allowing easy reassembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also look pretty cool, available in a range of colours and come in a nice box with travel bag. Another cool feature of these is the Music sharing feature, the headphones have 2 3.5mm jacks in series, so if you have music playing through your headphones, someone else can plug their headphones into yours and you can both listen to the same track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monster-DNA-On-Ear-Headphones-Carbon-Fiber-Black/dp/B00E7L2LQE/ref=pd_cp_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0262VMS7EYW02KV3SEBV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1440" RevisionGUID="c7acab04-8279-4c21-9d55-3df14d198bab" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:14:53.337" UserId="1135" Text="I was using the **&quot;HP Pavillion DM1 4000-SG&quot;** for a while now until I got a Desktop PC and...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I was able to play Minecraft with around 50 FPS (Optifine installed)&#xD;&#xA; - programm in Java using eclipse&#xD;&#xA; - It has a 13,1 inch-display (I think) and is just as large as a normal *DIN A4*-Paper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I discovered just two downsides regarding the Laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - the CPU-Cooler has a high rotation speed resulting in the keyboard not responding after around 12 hours of non-stop usage&#xD;&#xA; - the Pavillion-Series from HP goes for good Hardware but after around one year of usage, you may need to adjust some screws below the display, the rest is fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside regarding your requirements is, that it comes with Windows Pre-Installed and a standard HDD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1439" RevisionGUID="b4def40c-e96e-4931-9f3d-d3b9bb421f15" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:29:24.697" UserId="769" Comment="added 571 characters in body" Text="I would suggest the [Monster DNAs][1] for about £100 so around 130 euros, these headphones are a comfortable set of on-ear headphones, with a tangle free detatchable cable. They are made of plastic, however they are extremely sturdy and will bend to almost straight without being damaged. The pieces are designed to pop out before snapping allowing easy reassembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also look pretty cool, available in a range of colours and come in a nice box with travel bag. Another cool feature of these is the Music sharing feature, the headphones have 2 3.5mm jacks in series, so if you have music playing through your headphones, someone else can plug their headphones into yours and you can both listen to the same track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another suggestion are the [Audio-Technica-ATH-M50X][2] over ear headphones. I have a friend that ahd a pair of these and he said they were amazing for the price (£88 on amazon currently). They have thick cushioned ear pads so comfortable, 3 removable cables (1.5m/3.0m/1.5-3.0m coiled). [Cnet][3] have a good detailed revie wont hese and they are also the best seller son amazon currently in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monster-DNA-On-Ear-Headphones-Carbon-Fiber-Black/dp/B00E7L2LQE/ref=pd_cp_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0262VMS7EYW02KV3SEBV&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50X-Monitor-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cnet.com/uk/products/audio-technica-ath-m50x/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="1cdd0f4c-d712-4ca9-a7d8-79f62545bc19" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:23:54.160" UserId="65" Comment="spelling and grammar corrections, esp. in title" Text="The latest Apple notebooks do not have any built-in DVD drive, and Apple only sells a DVD drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any external drive which is similar to the external SuperDrive for the MacBook Pro, but is able to read (and possibly write to) Blu-ray discs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found several Blu-ray drives, but they do not look so &quot;portable&quot; as you need a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if it would be possible to have a drive like the Apple External SuperDrive DVD which is powered just by a USB cable.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="1cdd0f4c-d712-4ca9-a7d8-79f62545bc19" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:23:54.160" UserId="65" Comment="spelling and grammar corrections, esp. in title" Text="Blu-ray player for Retina MacBook Pro (USB powered through)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="1cdd0f4c-d712-4ca9-a7d8-79f62545bc19" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:23:54.160" Comment="Proposed by 65 approved by 57, -1 edit id of 311" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="d541f243-0d9b-4b22-96a5-efd72b96f1f0" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:23:54.160" UserId="8" Comment="spelling and grammar corrections, esp. in title" Text="Blu-ray player for Retina MacBook Pro (USB powered)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1433" RevisionGUID="46d961e9-fd44-4a6a-8dda-3d02ec189c42" CreationDate="2015-12-03T16:28:22.073" UserId="39" Comment="Added details from comments to clarify what op wants." Text="I remember having a keyboard, a few years back, where the **keycaps** on the columns of letters were **alternately concave/convex**, i.e. QAZ concave, WSX convex, EDC concave etc. (or the opposite). I have found entirely convex keyboards, but I cannot find this particular kind. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1433" RevisionGUID="46d961e9-fd44-4a6a-8dda-3d02ec189c42" CreationDate="2015-12-03T16:28:22.073" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 8 edit id of 312" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="52d78dc5-3930-4e6f-9c9c-9eb94e50bd9d" CreationDate="2015-12-03T17:54:27.983" UserId="39" Comment="Added budget from comments." Text="I am currently under the dilemma of choosing the right PSU for this build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Skylake, Core i5 6600K 3.5GHz][1] &#xD;&#xA; - RAM: HyperX Fury Black 8GB DDR4 2133MHz CL14 Dual Channel Kit &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: [MSI H170A PC Mate][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Some SSD + HDD, not sure at the moment how much (irrelevant)&#xD;&#xA; - Water cooling for the CPU (have not decided yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around $120-$130.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;I must note that I will also get a GPU in the future, and I want the PSU to work *with upgrades*, instead of replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also I have to ask this:*&#xD;&#xA;What is with the bronze/gold/platinum labels on the PSUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/H170A-PC-MATE.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="52d78dc5-3930-4e6f-9c9c-9eb94e50bd9d" CreationDate="2015-12-03T17:54:27.983" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 60, -1 edit id of 313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1400" RevisionGUID="73fef2e1-cdfe-472a-a6aa-df34c10dd791" CreationDate="2015-12-03T17:54:27.983" UserId="8" Comment="Added budget from comments." Text="I am currently under the dilemma of choosing the right PSU for this build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Skylake, Core i5 6600K 3.5GHz][1] &#xD;&#xA; - RAM: HyperX Fury Black 8GB DDR4 2133MHz CL14 Dual Channel Kit &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: [MSI H170A PC Mate][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Some SSD + HDD, not sure at the moment how much (irrelevant)&#xD;&#xA; - Water cooling for the CPU (have not decided yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around $120-$130.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must note that I will also get a GPU in the future, and I want the PSU to work *with upgrades*, instead of replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also I have to ask this:*&#xD;&#xA;What is with the bronze/gold/platinum labels on the PSUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/H170A-PC-MATE.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1441" RevisionGUID="9f25bc66-15d9-4744-8c66-21998e26b565" CreationDate="2015-12-03T21:09:09.810" UserId="1145" Text="Is it possible to know when someone open a computer case (hp server 1u), let's say in data center? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inside server is usb port which can be used as some kind of switch.&#xD;&#xA;That usb device would write to the syslog and automatically shutdown the server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can this be implemented easily? Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1441" RevisionGUID="9f25bc66-15d9-4744-8c66-21998e26b565" CreationDate="2015-12-03T21:09:09.810" UserId="1145" Text="Computer case access control?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1441" RevisionGUID="9f25bc66-15d9-4744-8c66-21998e26b565" CreationDate="2015-12-03T21:09:09.810" UserId="1145" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1374" RevisionGUID="62896165-8ca3-4ef6-9874-f148585d926b" CreationDate="2015-12-03T21:11:19.250" UserId="527" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a portable rechargeable battery pack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Requirements***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable&#xD;&#xA; 1. Can *safely* power tablets and phones (only need 2.1A at once)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Can *reliably* jumpstart a large vehicle engine (4.0L)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Preferences***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. As low of a price as possible&#xD;&#xA; 2. As small as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Bonus***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Has a carrying case (but not willing to pay extra for one)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Costco currently sells such a device for $59.99, but I have been unable to find any reviews of it, nor do I know anyone who has tried one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1443" RevisionGUID="16905a49-8b1d-42bb-9998-17953e219f72" CreationDate="2015-12-03T22:33:13.977" UserId="45" Text="[Fairphone 1](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairphone_1) came rooted, and the manufacturer pushes strongly for openness (though they didn't manage to get the source code for all the firmware). Fairphone 1 isn't manufactured anymore but you might be able to get a secondhand one. Fairphone 1 has 1GB of RAM, 16GB of flash, microSD, wifi (b/g/n), GPS, an 8MP camera, qHD (960×540), dual-SIM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have one, but I've seen it up close. It feels heavier than other phones of similar size (it weighs 170g).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fairphone is a fair trade phone: they strive to ensure that the whole manufacturing chain from mining to assembling respects decent labor standards (working conditions, pay, etc.). So it isn't surprising that it's more expensive (about €325 including taxes) than other phones with similar performance. Buying a Fairphone is a social gesture, not a purely consumerist purchase. Fairphone documents the [cost breakdown](https://www.fairphone.com/2013/09/12/costbreakdown/). On the upside, if some part breaks, you can order a spare: you won't get stuck with a battery molded in plastic!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fairphone 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairphone_2) is currently on pre-sale: if you order now, you'll get it in January. It has generally higher specs (in particular 4G LTE, HD display, and USB OTG) and almost the same weight (168g). It's a lot more expensive at €530 including taxes ([cost breakdown](https://www.fairphone.com/2015/09/09/cost-breakdown-of-the-fairphone-2/)). I can't find confirmation as to whether it comes rooted out of the box, but rooting will definitely be supported by the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1444" RevisionGUID="32d13174-802a-4a31-9df1-e3745ac72985" CreationDate="2015-12-04T03:30:43.020" UserId="106" Text="I want a keyboard to use with my gaming/htpc.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I will use it from the sofa so a wireless, mini keyboard would be best.  &#xD;&#xA;I feel game controller sticks a comfortable device, therefore I want a trackball (that I think feel closer to a stick) in the keyboard, rather than a trackpad. I will not use the trackball for gaming, I play games with a controller.  &#xD;&#xA;Finally it would be great if the keyboard came with a kind of charging dock (so that I can just grab it and use it), but this last requirement is not a priority.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Can you think of any models that fit those conditions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1444" RevisionGUID="32d13174-802a-4a31-9df1-e3745ac72985" CreationDate="2015-12-04T03:30:43.020" UserId="106" Text="Recommended Wireless Mini Keyboard with Trackball" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1444" RevisionGUID="32d13174-802a-4a31-9df1-e3745ac72985" CreationDate="2015-12-04T03:30:43.020" UserId="106" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;&lt;htpc&gt;&lt;mini&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1330" RevisionGUID="a4b8d70c-67f7-4c68-9417-cdd7e337db00" CreationDate="2015-12-04T08:13:49.160" UserId="-1" Comment="9" />
  <row Id="5192" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1446" RevisionGUID="423cf62c-e016-4f30-8406-6d03efd6c14c" CreationDate="2015-12-04T09:32:58.660" UserId="1150" Text="I found that in general most 960 cards from various brands all run at similar noise levels. [The EVGA 960 (4gb)][1] runs fairly quiet when under 60 degrees celsius, but will start to be noticeable if not similar to other cards when above that temperature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to cards being maxed out in usage, the [MSI 960(2gb)][2] seems to be quieter than several other brands, based off of various videos I found comparing noise levels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Whisper-Graphics-02G-P4-2966-KR/dp/B00SC6HAS4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-960-GAMING-2G/dp/B00SAYDRP8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449220976&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=msi%20960&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147203&amp;cm_re=silent-_-11-147-203-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1447" RevisionGUID="198b5842-91c0-442a-a0d3-423585a36def" CreationDate="2015-12-04T13:24:16.580" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop with these musthaves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Small and lightweight, 13&quot; or smaller&#xD;&#xA;- Linux support&#xD;&#xA;- 32GB RAM support&#xD;&#xA;- Can handle three external displays&#xD;&#xA;- Faster than my current Intel Core i5-3230M CPU @ 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Matte display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with our Dell E-Port Replicators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: ~$2500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1447" RevisionGUID="198b5842-91c0-442a-a0d3-423585a36def" CreationDate="2015-12-04T13:24:16.580" UserId="199" Text="Small developer laptop with 32GB memory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1447" RevisionGUID="198b5842-91c0-442a-a0d3-423585a36def" CreationDate="2015-12-04T13:24:16.580" UserId="199" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1448" RevisionGUID="e3094c39-2641-43c5-9e3d-24f8090af738" CreationDate="2015-12-04T14:40:28.113" UserId="57" Text="I've used a compact IOGEAR keyboard on an HTPC before. I was impressed with how comfortable it felt to hold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product: [IOGEAR Multimedia Keyboard (Model: GKM561R)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![IOGEAR Keyboard][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Rubber grips on the sides &#xD;&#xA; - Separate scroll wheel and track ball&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse sensitivity adjustments&#xD;&#xA; - Compact&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have a charger though. It utilizes two AA batteries. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Multimedia-Keyboard-Trackball-Wireless-GKM561R/dp/B002H0BOBA&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/waa5e.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1449" RevisionGUID="e8cb7feb-7598-4144-9665-a7e8687f9a16" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:43:15.557" UserId="1153" Text="Is there a wifi product that is a simple alarm button? When pressed it would notify my PC through my local wireless network, so i can autosend and email or other message through the web.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally I am looking for a WIFI product (not just 'wireless', that is not part of any larger integrated 'system', that is a simple button. Essentially like a panic button. Once pressed, it would send a message through the wifi router to the local PC so software could take over to take actions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just can't seem to find anything that is a simple switch ... as opposed to 'system'.  Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest thing I have seen is using a standard wifi video cam (like FOSCAM) - where it sends an email (or other) when motion is detected.  This is very close, except of course I don't want a camera - just a button." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1449" RevisionGUID="e8cb7feb-7598-4144-9665-a7e8687f9a16" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:43:15.557" UserId="1153" Text="Wifi &quot;button&quot; - recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1449" RevisionGUID="e8cb7feb-7598-4144-9665-a7e8687f9a16" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:43:15.557" UserId="1153" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1451" RevisionGUID="84fe49cc-462f-425c-aee1-3501e1a374f5" CreationDate="2015-12-04T20:31:13.193" UserId="515" Text="After seeing @Alpha3031's comment, I checked the Gigabyte site.  v3.1 of the board is AM3+, v1.3 is AM3 with this additional note: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If you install AMD AM3 CPU on this motherboard, the system bus speed&#xD;&#xA;&gt; will downgrade from HT3.0 (5200MT/s) to HT1.0 (2000 MT/s) spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabyte's product pages:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3645&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3967&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for the two versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried plugging the model number into pcpartpicker.com and got some interesting results...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gam68mts2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gam68mts2p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The listing for both - up to a 980 GPU and up to an 8-core, 3.1ghz CPU (AMD FX-8120) .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems both will accept your hexacore as well.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the average game still hasnt figured out how to use 4 cores, I'd stick to the hexacore, and just find the baddest GPU/16+GB RAM/250+GB SSD you can afford.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as bottleneck, with the AM3 version, that will definitely be your bottleneck, AM3+ maybe not as much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1452" RevisionGUID="e63a73d7-a487-401c-9930-021b37d17402" CreationDate="2015-12-04T23:20:14.427" UserId="1155" Text="My current setup is a _Virgin Media SuperHub_ and a _CSL - 300 Mbit/s USB 2.0 WiFi Dongle_. I however am getting inconsistent connectivity just 5/6 Metres (down the hall) from the hub, and when I am connected I only get [~15MB/s download speeds](http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4888218243) at the best of times, on a connection which has clocked 150Mb/s+ over a hardwire. I understand that I shouldn't expect speeds that high on 2.4GHz at a distance, but the SuperHub does provide 5GHz which is entirely unused at the moment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leads me to my question, what would be the best way to utilise the unused band? I have been looking into Range Extenders, such as the [NETGEAR EX6150](http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00V6B9XS2/), but I also came across some articles (pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/network-wifi/how-set-up-router-as-repeater-3494655/) mentioning that you can just set up a router to act as an extender. This second option looks preferable, and cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution I'm hoping for would allow me to connect my Desktops (2 of them) to the network via a hardwire to the second router (acting as an extender) as well as improving connectivity for my other devices (phone &amp; laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would this be viable? If so, any pointers on how best to do it? Any recommended routers which this would be ideal to use with? The Netis WF2780 AC1200 looks like it would be sufficient, and reasonably priced (budget around £60)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1452" RevisionGUID="e63a73d7-a487-401c-9930-021b37d17402" CreationDate="2015-12-04T23:20:14.427" UserId="1155" Text="Looking to boost the Wi-Fi with an extender or second router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1452" RevisionGUID="e63a73d7-a487-401c-9930-021b37d17402" CreationDate="2015-12-04T23:20:14.427" UserId="1155" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1452" RevisionGUID="410c2bd3-51d1-4d2a-9cd7-61128fd78f3f" CreationDate="2015-12-04T23:54:05.360" UserId="8" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="My current setup is a _Virgin Media SuperHub_ and a _CSL - 300 Mbit/s USB 2.0 WiFi Dongle_. I however am getting inconsistent connectivity just 5/6 Metres (down the hall) from the hub, and when I am connected I only get [~15MB/s download speeds](http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4888218243) at the best of times, on a connection which has clocked 150Mb/s+ over a hardwire. I understand that I shouldn't expect speeds that high on 2.4GHz at a distance, but the SuperHub does provide 5GHz which is entirely unused at the moment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leads me to my question, what would be the best way to utilise the unused band? I have been looking into Range Extenders, such as the [NETGEAR EX6150](http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00V6B9XS2/), but I also came across some articles (pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/network-wifi/how-set-up-router-as-repeater-3494655/) mentioning that you can just set up a router to act as an extender. This second option looks preferable, and cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution I'm hoping for would allow me to connect my Desktops (2 of them) to the network via a hardwire to the second router (acting as an extender) as well as improving connectivity for my other devices (phone &amp; laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What routers are there that are capable of this? It must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- act as a wireless repeater for an existing network&#xD;&#xA;- be under or around £60 ($85)&#xD;&#xA;- bonus points if it can be a standalone router too&#xD;&#xA;- have wired Ethernet (minimum x2) and wireless output capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- be able to use the 5GHz band" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="7ecd2230-0fd2-4aa1-93e6-f8c1a25d1822" CreationDate="2015-12-05T03:24:42.963" UserId="-1" Comment="10" />
  <row Id="5220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1455" RevisionGUID="7547f776-1fbe-4c9c-9218-c5f6959f67a5" CreationDate="2015-12-05T05:12:22.517" UserId="203" Text="Considering your [games][1] are [not][2] the most [demanding][3], I'd recommend using a slight bit extra money to get a 256GB SSD. Even if you don't need that extra space, it'll be faster and more write-durable, due to the extra chips. Your PSU isn't exactly high quality, so I'd hesitate to recommend AMD's high end. Tonga would be fine on your computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For those reasons, I recommend the Tonga PRO R9 380, specifically, the Sapphire R9 380 Dual X 2GB [retailing at £142.22 at Amazon.uk][4]. Yeah, it's a lot less than your budget, but it's going to be all you need to do what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you feel the need to have more VRAM (for big textures, maybe) or want to have an easy upgrade, I'd recommend any [4 GB version of the same card][5]. Unfortunately, SLI is not possible, and using PCIe X4 would likely be very bad in terms of performance, even with AMD Crossfire, therefore, multi card configs are not recommended. You'd have to purchase a new single GPU, upgrade your Motherboard and/or upgrade your PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The equivalent from Nvidia is the [GTX 960][6], with both [2 GB][7] and [4 GB][6] versions as well. The advantages are that it may be slightly faster in certain games, it runs slightly cooler and may be a better overclocker. The difference is really small though. It may be slower in other games, and you'll have to wipe the AMD drivers beforehand. The two cards both have their merits, and it's really just brand preference if the prices are similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/dota-2-performance-benchmark,3481-7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.techspot.com/review/305-starcraft2-performance/page10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://blog.logicalincrements.com/2014/05/dark-souls-2-system-requirements-and-recommended/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013F4RYC4/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/amdradeongraphicscards/amdr9380series/r9-380p-4df5.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/NVIDIA+GeForce/GeForce+GTX+960/Gigabyte+GTX960+Windforce+2X+Cooler+OC+NVIDIA+Graphics+Card+4GB+-+Inc+Heroes+of+the+Storm+Bundle+Pack+?productId=64608&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SJ8FZZ0/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1456" RevisionGUID="45933eff-b1dc-4681-9679-50af09d29820" CreationDate="2015-12-05T09:54:52.750" UserId="1157" Text="I would  upgrade the memory to at least 8GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An SSD would be a good idea to put the OS on, as well as a few programs/games that you want to start up fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing that will help a lot when gaming on high quality is graphics memory. If the game textures are big, they can't fit on graphics memory, and are stored in normal memory instead. That makes things a lot slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should probably get a reasonably new graphics card with at least 4GB of memory on it. Something like an r9 390, or 380 if you don't have the money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the PSU, [apparently](https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/94836-will-an-r9-390-work-with-600-watts), it's fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the processor, it's probably fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1457" RevisionGUID="d7041954-80e6-42e2-98ff-8bcb8bf690a3" CreationDate="2015-12-05T10:28:09.013" UserId="1157" Text="I would get a chromebook. Most of them are cheap, and they all have a local disk. There might not be a very big disk, especially if it's an SSD, but that shouldn't be a problem, considering your applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I recommend a chromebook is that ChromeOS is basically Linux with a different UI. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just like any other computer, you can boot INSERT FAVOURITE DISTRO HERE from a usb, and install it on the disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have GNU+Linux installed by default, you could try something like [this](https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/royal-penguin-gnu-linux-notebook)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1459" RevisionGUID="c9079b71-3a4e-4631-8e05-e119eca1f702" CreationDate="2015-12-05T16:48:09.113" UserId="951" Text="I would go with Z170A gaming pro, because it's futureproof: supports DDR up to 3400 MHz, has good heat sinks and has everything you need &amp; more, and fits well under your budget. The cheaper alternative for me would be H170 (still great)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="4ab99a72-42a0-4f5c-8ab7-769bc2a0b3e5" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:05:39.773" UserId="1162" Text="I'm looking for a low-end laptop without any mechanical moving parts (don't need CD; will use SSD), particularly without a fan because a fan is noisy or becomes noisy after a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any laptops these days without fans at all?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="4ab99a72-42a0-4f5c-8ab7-769bc2a0b3e5" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:05:39.773" UserId="1162" Text="Laptop without any fans?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="4ab99a72-42a0-4f5c-8ab7-769bc2a0b3e5" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:05:39.773" UserId="1162" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;&lt;silent&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1463" RevisionGUID="01d0d8c4-362f-433d-8469-5ef357a5895e" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:32:57.523" UserId="248" Text="I'm looking for an action/sports camera (used for recording while snowboarding/biking etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It should record at 1080p - 60fps but 1080p - 30fps works as well.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have underwater case&#xD;&#xA; - Supports at least 32Gb microSD/SD card.&#xD;&#xA; - Should have the option to also take photos&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget would be around $150-$200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any knowledge about some, what it's good to look at, please share it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1463" RevisionGUID="01d0d8c4-362f-433d-8469-5ef357a5895e" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:32:57.523" UserId="248" Text="1080p Action/Sports Camera Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1463" RevisionGUID="01d0d8c4-362f-433d-8469-5ef357a5895e" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:32:57.523" UserId="248" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="b1973b97-37a7-499c-a9b2-09972b514e03" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:18:14.543" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="6eb153d0-e414-4042-b74d-97a724395159" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:05:23.583" UserId="1162" Comment="added 164 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a laptop without any mechanical moving parts (don't need CD; will use SSD), particularly without a fan because a fan is noisy or becomes noisy after a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably 13-15'', around 8gb ram, that can run xubuntu comfortably. Touchscreen or screen flipping are unnecessary. Could also be a tablet+ keyboard, if fast enough.&#xA;&#xA;Under $800.&#xA;&#xA;Are there any laptops these days like that?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1460" RevisionGUID="6eb153d0-e414-4042-b74d-97a724395159" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:05:23.583" UserId="1162" Comment="added 164 characters in body; edited title" Text="Quiet, no moving parts laptop/tablet that can run Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="6f752d91-932b-4cdb-820c-53000b986874" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:44:50.690" UserId="425" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="The latest Apple notebooks do not have any built-in DVD drive, and Apple only sells a DVD drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any external drive which is similar to the external SuperDrive for the MacBook Pro, but is able to read (and possibly write too) Blu-ray discs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found several Blu-ray drives, but they do not look so &quot;portable&quot; as you need a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if it would be possible to have a drive like the Apple External SuperDrive DVD which is powered just by a USB cable.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1465" RevisionGUID="5191d76e-c052-474c-8285-41ed7ee990e9" CreationDate="2015-12-06T11:26:24.220" UserId="203" Text="There are very few memory bound tasks for modern CPUs. The key factors to look for are capacity, cost, latency, voltages and speed, usually in that order. It doesn't *really* matter if a CPU doesn't support a RAM speed. You just need motherboard support and go into BIOS to activate the XMP setting, so that it'll run at the rated speed rather than the SPD speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without any further details about your specific workload (which is very important), my general recommendation, besides not to get a Z170 board unless you **really** need the extra IO, Smart Sound, or want to get a K CPU (overclocking), is to get 16 GB RAM straight away. It is very easy to use up 8 GB of RAM if you do more than one thing at a time, or if you're using anything that uses a lot of RAM. The price of DDR4 has dropped as well, so it is reasonably affordable to get 2 x 8 GB kits, in fact, cheaper than 2 x 4 GB kits of DDR3 last year: The G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series has a 2400 MT/s 15-15-15-35 kit for [$74.99 at newegg.com][1]. G.Skill is one of the largest manufacturers of RAM, and has a reputation for good quality. Their Sniper series generally has slightly more headroom, but it's just going to shave a few seconds off a 10 minute compression or video rendering, to name some memory bound tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, &quot;overclocking friendly&quot; just means that the factory clocks are slightly less aggressive, and that you can increase them a bit more while still being stable. The PC* ***** naming is just a different way of naming DDR* ****. The number directly after the PC and DDRs is the version number, and the second number is the bandwidth in MB/s for the PC scheme, and the clock rate in MT/s (twice the real clock rate) for the DDR scheme. Since DDR RAM has a 64 bit wide bus and there are 8 bits in a byte, the PC number is just 8 times the DDR number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't really matter how you upgrade, just keep in mind that using memory from different kits *may* be unstable. The chance is low if they are the same model, but it's still there. Since you only have 4 RAM slots though, I'd just get a 2 x 8 GB kit and another when you decide it's not enough. Good luck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231826" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1465" RevisionGUID="89dc9eb3-8860-4bd3-88a5-0f4e979158e8" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:11:19.527" UserId="203" Comment="Added addendum on memory timings" Text="There are very few memory bound tasks for modern CPUs. The key factors to look for are capacity, cost, latency, voltages and speed, usually in that order. It doesn't *really* matter if a CPU doesn't support a RAM speed. You just need motherboard support and go into BIOS to activate the XMP setting, so that it'll run at the rated speed rather than the SPD speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without any further details about your specific workload (which is very important), my general recommendation, besides not to get a Z170 board unless you **really** need the extra IO, Smart Sound, or want to get a K CPU (overclocking), is to get 16 GB RAM straight away. It is very easy to use up 8 GB of RAM if you do more than one thing at a time, or if you're using anything that uses a lot of RAM. The price of DDR4 has dropped as well, so it is reasonably affordable to get 2 x 8 GB kits, in fact, cheaper than 2 x 4 GB kits of DDR3 last year: The G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series has a 2400 MT/s 15-15-15-35 kit for [$74.99 at newegg.com][1]. G.Skill is one of the largest manufacturers of RAM, and has a reputation for good quality. Their Sniper series generally has slightly more headroom, but it's just going to shave a few seconds off a 10 minute compression or video rendering, to name some memory bound tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, &quot;overclocking friendly&quot; just means that the factory clocks are slightly less aggressive, and that you can increase them a bit more while still being stable. The PC* ***** naming is just a different way of naming DDR* ****. The number directly after the PC and DDRs is the version number, and the second number is the bandwidth in MB/s for the PC scheme, and the clock rate in MT/s (twice the real clock rate) for the DDR scheme. Since DDR RAM has a 64 bit wide bus and there are 8 bits in a byte, the PC number is just 8 times the DDR number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't really matter how you upgrade, just keep in mind that using memory from different kits *may* be unstable. The chance is low if they are the same model, but it's still there. Since you only have 4 RAM slots though, I'd just get a 2 x 8 GB kit and another when you decide it's not enough. Good luck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Addendum: On memory timings**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory timings tell the CPU how long to wait before expecting an action to be completed on the memory chip, and in SDRAM (clocked + refreshed RAM), is measured in RAM clock cycles (which is half the DDR number). Memory is arranged in rows, which are divided in to columns.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CAS Latency determines the amount of time the CPU to wait after issuing a read command before actually reading the data from the output pin. If this is shorter than the time it takes for the RAM to respond fully, what is read is a voltage that is transitioning between the previous voltage on the output pin and the desired one. This is bad and sometimes causes the computer to crash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But CAS Latency is the full latency only if the right row is already open! If there is no row open, the CPU has to issue an Activation command first, and wait. This is the next number, tRCD, the RAS to CAS delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The third number is tRP. The Row Precharge time is the time you need to wait between a Precharge command and an Activate command; the time it takes to close a row, if you have the wrong one open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the last number is basically CAS + tRCD, and then a bit more. It's the minimum amount of time a row can be active. There's a bit more again to let the memory finish passing on the voltage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231826" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="58827480-0558-49d2-9eb9-695a57cf43c4" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:34:33.207" UserId="543" Text="Asus X99-A with USB3.1 Motherboard And Intel Core i7 5820K CPU ***Or***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus Z170-A Motherboard And Intel Core i7 6700K CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the build (the same for both):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Cooler:*** Noctua NH-U14S.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***RAM:*** 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX Black, 2666MHz, CAS 16-18-18-35, 1.2V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage:*** 250GB Samsung 850 EVO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***PSU:*** 650W Corsair RMx, Modular, Silent, 80PLUS Gold - Any Single Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***GPU:*** 2GB Asus Radeon R7 250X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using the build for mainly programming. Most important programs I will use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Android Studio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IDE such as Eclipse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which combination of motherboard + CPU will give me better performance. Will the programs I mentioned benefit significantly from the 5820K's extra cores and threads?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="58827480-0558-49d2-9eb9-695a57cf43c4" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:34:33.207" UserId="543" Text="Which of these two PC builds would offer better performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="58827480-0558-49d2-9eb9-695a57cf43c4" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:34:33.207" UserId="543" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="ff282386-95d5-4a8e-add6-328c643ac7d5" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:41:19.880" UserId="951" Comment="11" />
  <row Id="5258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1307" RevisionGUID="77736a62-db9f-42ee-b460-97f4894c4c6f" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:59:29.517" UserId="951" Comment="use scenarios" Text="**For the build** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB BOX&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: Eizo FlexScan S1901 (1280 x 1024)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What memory would you buy, and why?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specific problems I consider:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Currently sold processors support up to 2133 MT/s (or did I miss some model?), but (I guess) the faster dices work as well (with reduced speed), so maybe ex. 2400 if it has better CAS latency and not much of a price difference?&#xD;&#xA; - If I choose Kingston, should I go with furry or savage? I read, that savage is more overclocking friendly, but do not know what it means specifically.&#xD;&#xA; - I see the &quot;PC4-17000&quot; or &quot;PC3-17000&quot; often on dices sold, but on [wikipedia][1], the PC3-17000 is under DDR3 section? &#xD;&#xA; - What should be the upgrade scheme? Incremental (one 8GB dice per year, for most dice 'recycling') or batch (2*4GB, than 4*4GB, than 4*8 GB to gain maximum of dual channel)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use scenarios are:&#xD;&#xA;programming in couple of IDE opened simultanously (60% time), 100+ Mb data analysis (10%) and games like Fallout 4 (30%).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIMM#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="4e78e88c-dc7d-4039-9900-82781212e9ef" CreationDate="2015-12-06T14:32:53.520" UserId="543" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1467" RevisionGUID="89dc1528-fb3c-449a-9a91-5fbc12480c7b" CreationDate="2015-12-06T17:22:10.377" UserId="1155" Text="Looking over the specs of the 5820K versus the 6700K, notable differences are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Larger cache (15MB vs 8MB)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - More cores and threads&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Higher memory bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these would probably be of benefit when working, however it has a lower clock speed. That might be the dealbreaker here, as while having lots of threads is great for multitasking (and possibly compiling, not sure if that applies to JDK? Some compilers are still single-threaded) clock speed is also important. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you intend to overclock the 5820K (quick google search reveals people have got it over 4.0GHz and stable, but runs pretty hot) then I'd say it's safe to go for the 5820K. But if you don't want to do that, the 6700K is might be a better choice given that it is already faster, can be overclocked higher, runs cooler while drawing less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, if you'll benefit more from multithreading take the 5820K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, if you need the raw single-core speed take the 6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good comparison of the two from [LinusTechTips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFNhlq2b518)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1468" RevisionGUID="2bc4d029-9d0b-4ead-9fa2-9064b22442b3" CreationDate="2015-12-06T17:27:27.207" UserId="912" Text="The i7 5820K would be much faster than the i7 6700K. None of the programs you will use will benefit from a i7 5820K or even a i7 6700K for that matter. A i5 6600K will be enough for what you are doing. The 5820K will only benefit from much larger multithreaded workloads (such as virtualization or video rendering) and where more PCI-E lanes are needed (allows up to 24 PIC-E lanes). Your GPU will  also bottleneck your system if you any sightly GPU intensive tasks (such as gaming or video editing). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="5d54cce4-c218-4b4f-9790-465335f48e32" CreationDate="2015-12-06T19:20:18.813" UserId="543" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Asus X99-A with USB3.1 Motherboard And Intel Core i7 5820K CPU ***Or***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus Z170-A Motherboard And Intel Core i7 6700K CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the build (the same for both):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Cooler:*** Noctua NH-U14S.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***RAM:*** 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX Black, 2666MHz, CAS 16-18-18-35, 1.2V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage:*** 250GB Samsung 850 EVO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***PSU:*** 650W Corsair RMx, Modular, Silent, 80PLUS Gold - Any Single Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***GPU:*** 4GB MSI GTX 960 GAMING 4G.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using the build for mainly programming. Most important programs I will use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Android Studio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IDE such as Eclipse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which combination of motherboard + CPU will give me better performance. Will the programs I mentioned benefit significantly from the 5820K's extra cores and threads?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1466" RevisionGUID="ed472726-99ee-40be-9925-65ae101e7d63" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:21:50.380" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1467" RevisionGUID="618a38c1-11a0-414b-b7e3-cca253850caa" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:34:28.507" UserId="1155" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="Looking over the specs of the 5820K versus the 6700K, notable differences are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Larger cache (15MB vs 8MB)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - More cores and threads&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Higher memory bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these would probably be of benefit when working, however it has a lower clock speed. That might be the dealbreaker here, as while having lots of threads is great for multitasking (and possibly compiling, not sure if that applies to JDK? Some compilers are still single-threaded) clock speed is also important. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you intend to overclock the 5820K (quick google search reveals people have got it over 4.0GHz and stable, but runs pretty hot) then I'd say it's safe to go for the 5820K. But if you don't want to do that, the 6700K might be a better choice given that it is already faster, can be overclocked higher, runs cooler while drawing less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, if you'll benefit more from multithreading take the 5820K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, if you need the raw single-core speed take the 6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good comparison of the two from [LinusTechTips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFNhlq2b518)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1468" RevisionGUID="31da6452-8993-4a0f-885c-e518ef3c2fe8" CreationDate="2015-12-07T14:08:14.637" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar/spelling" Text="The i7 5820K would be much faster than the i7 6700K. None of the programs you will use will benefit from an i7 5820K or even an i7 6700K for that matter. An i5 6600K will be enough for what you are doing. The 5820K will only benefit from much larger multithreaded workloads (such as virtualization or video rendering) and where more PCIe lanes are needed (allows up to 24 PCIe lanes). Your GPU will also bottleneck your system if you perform any slightly GPU-intensive tasks (such as gaming or video editing). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1468" RevisionGUID="31da6452-8993-4a0f-885c-e518ef3c2fe8" CreationDate="2015-12-07T14:08:14.637" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 57, 912 edit id of 314" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="1d7b4b2e-a97c-4fba-be49-589b0ac68638" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:29:34.693" UserId="951" Comment="added 218 characters in body" Text="In [this question][1] I received the response to which graphics model should I go with. Now, as I started calculating using [this decibel calculator][2], the fact that I am trying to buy quiet 8.9 dB fans (total = 20.9 dB) will be negligable if a graphics card will generate 36 dB (which is what I found [here][3]) - than the total noise will be 37.081 dB.&#xD;&#xA;However, on [Tomshardware][4] I found this to be more nuanced, but also incomplete (no MSI card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What graphics card manufacturer would you recommend for GTX960 noise-wise (the price differences are negligible)? Or maybe there are other considerations under 250$ for gaming setup (i5-6500, 8GB ram, 240GB SDD, 4 140mm fans, MSI170 pro gaming mobo, 1280 x 1024 res) that are significantly quieter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of 'silent mode' (fans turning off on idle) which is apparently implemented by all manufacturers. The question is about the fan noise under load (as all cards will be near to silent on idle).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1233/ultra-graphics-performance-for-a-penny&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-coherentsources.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-oc-review,10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1470" RevisionGUID="3c8f00f1-970d-47f4-90fa-407cb41c8dff" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:50:01.370" UserId="951" Text="So after the extended research I found the following evidence:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 minutes of constant load [test by Toms Hardware][1] :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Asus Strix GeForce GTX 960: **35 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SSC: **35 dB**&#xD;&#xA; -  ZOTAC AMP! GeForce GTX 960: **36.5 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Gaming 2G GeForce GTX 960: **34 dB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the rest of makes in yet another [Toms Hardware test][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Asus GTX 960 StriX OC: **35.8 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - Gainward GTX 960 Phantom OC: **35.9 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - Galax/KFA GTX 960 EX OC: **36.2 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GTX 960 WindForce OC: **35.8 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GTX 960 Gaming G1: **34.6 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - inno3D GTX 960 iChill: **36.4 dB**&#xD;&#xA; - Palit GTX 960 Super JetStream: **36.6 dB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the above I conclude, that the quietest card is MSI Gaming 2G GeForce GTX 960 and Gigabyte GTX 960 Gaming G1, because it's hard to compre between tests.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-2g,4194.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1447" RevisionGUID="f8b4a682-8253-4e76-937a-cf80843e2192" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:45:43.520" UserId="199" Comment="more clarifications based on comments" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop (for a Java developer who runs multiple virtual machines and some heavyweight server applications too) with these musthaves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Small and lightweight, 14&quot; or smaller, no more than 2224 grams&#xD;&#xA;- Linux support (I don't mind if it comes with Windows but every hardware component should work well under Linux too.)&#xD;&#xA;- 32GB RAM support&#xD;&#xA;- Can handle three external displays (Currently I have three displays, all of them has DVI input and VGA too, but I'd prefer the digital one. Using DisplayPort-&gt;DVI and/or HDMI-&gt;DVI conversion cables are also fine for me.)&#xD;&#xA;- Faster than my current Intel Core i5-3230M CPU @ 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Matte display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with our Dell E-Port Replicators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: ~$2500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1471" RevisionGUID="7e92a8af-9da2-47cd-b49a-b58d21f03b42" CreationDate="2015-12-07T20:11:26.760" UserId="66" Text="After some more research, I hardly founds *anything*. The hard part with this search is the RAM - most that meet your specs are workstations or gaming laptops, both of which tend to be large. That said, I did find ONE laptop that seems to meet your requirements: *(Disclaimer: I have not used any of the products or laptops mentioned here)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GS40][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MSI GS40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is small: 14.0&quot; screen, 13.58&quot; W x 9.65&quot; D x 0.87&quot; H, and at 3.75 lbs (1701 grams) it is well lighter than your requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Linux support: there's not a lot out there on this, presumably because it's a high-end gaming laptop and gamers tend to use Windows, but it appears just about everything should work with some configuration, according to [this page](https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/MSI/GS40/stretch). Note that those results are based off of Debian, so YMMV if you are using another distro. I suspect Ubuntu would probably work fine as well, but I can;t find any confirmation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It supports 32GBs of RAM (2x16GB DDR4 DIMMS @2133MHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its display outputs are limited (1 mini DisplayPort, 1 HDMI), however it is possible AFAIK to use a DisplayPort hub such as [this one](http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S) and then use DisplayPort to DVI cables, or use a [Matrox TripleHead2Go adapter][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The only processor avaliable that I saw was the Intel Skylake i7-6700HQ (2.6GHz) processor, which is [significantly faster](http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=2586&amp;cmp[]=1849)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The display is a `14.0” FHD 16:9 LED Backlit Wide screen (1920x1080) Anti-Glare Matte Type Screen`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It does *not* appear to be compatible with a Dell E-Port Replicator; all of Dell's models that had 32GB of RAM had at least 15&quot; screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Cost is approximately $1800][3] for the base 32GB model, which comes with the aforementioned processor, RAM,  and screen, 3GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M, 128GB M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD, 1TB 7200RPM SATA III 2.5&quot; HDD, and Bigfoot Networks Killer Dual Band Wireless-AC N1525 - 802.11 AC/A/B/G/N Wireless LAN Module + Bluetooth 4.1. Upgrades to storage and some other components can be done. *Note that there are probably other places to buy this, but it is not available directly from MSI and most retail versions ship with 16GB of RAM*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is another option, but it does have a larger screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Dell Precision 15 5000][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Precision 15 5000**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell's new Precision 15 5000 series is the smallest 15&quot; I have found (it weighs under 4lbs, but still has a 15&quot; screen) that supports 32GBs of RAM. Due to its InfinityEdge display, iks dimensions are barely larger than the MSI above (and smaller in some ways), at 14.06&quot; x 9.27&quot; x 0.66&quot;. Dell states it supports 32GB of RAM, but currently only sells it with 16, presumably because it is a recent release (Q4 2015).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as connectors, it comes with 1 Thunderbolt and 1 HDMI, so again, adapters would be required. As far as Linux, again I can't find confirmation of it on Dell's site but [Tom's says it is supported][5], and Dell has supported Linux offerings in the past. And as far as the port replicator, I don't know, but it *is* a business-class Dell (although it is a thin-and-light version), so I'm not sure. Starting price is $1399, so you'll probably pay $1800-2000 for one with 32GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0u2jI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/gxm/th2go/digital_se/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.xoticpc.com/msi-gs40-phantom001-eta-mid-oct-2015-p-8719.html?startcustomization=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/N2AZu.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.tomsitpro.com/articles/dell-skylake-precision-workstations,1-2925.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="04e07ab5-bfc9-463b-8cb2-049e332a0ce9" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:32:04.757" UserId="1033" Text="I'm looking for a new PC monitor that will last for a long time. Right now I have some Samsung monitor, and I'm happy with it; however, it has &lt;2k, and it's 7 years old, so I figured it's time for upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 2000zł(~470euro|~500$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After reading a bit in the web, I'm clueless; I don't know what I should take into account. On the one hand, 4k seems like it's improvement; on the other hand, curved monitors are kind of sexy. I also don't know whether 21:9 or 16:9 is better, and how big should the monitor be. I was aiming for something around 30&quot;-32&quot;, but I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What monitor would be nice in this budget, for gaming and watching movies?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="04e07ab5-bfc9-463b-8cb2-049e332a0ce9" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:32:04.757" UserId="1033" Text="25&quot;-35&quot; Monitor for gaming and movies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="04e07ab5-bfc9-463b-8cb2-049e332a0ce9" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:32:04.757" UserId="1033" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1471" RevisionGUID="a4d8863f-52ad-403b-b16c-ddf84eaeb507" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:49:32.010" UserId="66" Comment="edited body" Text="After some more research, I hardly founds *anything*. The hard part with this search is the RAM - most that meet your specs are workstations or gaming laptops, both of which tend to be large. That said, I did find ONE laptop that seems to meet your requirements: *(Disclaimer: I have not used any of the products or laptops mentioned here)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GS40][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MSI GS40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is small: 14.0&quot; screen, 13.58&quot; W x 9.65&quot; D x 0.87&quot; H, and at 3.75 lbs (1701 grams) it is well lighter than your requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Linux support: there's not a lot out there on this, presumably because it's a high-end gaming laptop and gamers tend to use Windows, but it appears just about everything should work with some configuration, according to [this page](https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/MSI/GS40/stretch). Note that those results are based off of Debian, so YMMV if you are using another distro. I suspect Ubuntu would probably work fine as well, but I can't find any confirmation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It supports 32GBs of RAM (2x16GB DDR4 DIMMS @2133MHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its display outputs are limited (1 mini DisplayPort, 1 HDMI), however it is possible AFAIK to use a DisplayPort hub such as [this one](http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S) and then use DisplayPort to DVI cables, or use a [Matrox TripleHead2Go adapter][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The only processor avaliable that I saw was the Intel Skylake i7-6700HQ (2.6GHz) processor, which is [significantly faster](http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=2586&amp;cmp[]=1849)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The display is a `14.0” FHD 16:9 LED Backlit Wide screen (1920x1080) Anti-Glare Matte Type Screen`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It does *not* appear to be compatible with a Dell E-Port Replicator; all of Dell's models that had 32GB of RAM had at least 15&quot; screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Cost is approximately $1800][3] for the base 32GB model, which comes with the aforementioned processor, RAM,  and screen, 3GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M, 128GB M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD, 1TB 7200RPM SATA III 2.5&quot; HDD, and Bigfoot Networks Killer Dual Band Wireless-AC N1525 - 802.11 AC/A/B/G/N Wireless LAN Module + Bluetooth 4.1. Upgrades to storage and some other components can be done. *Note that there are probably other places to buy this, but it is not available directly from MSI and most retail versions ship with 16GB of RAM*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is another option, but it does have a larger screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Dell Precision 15 5000][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Precision 15 5000**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell's new Precision 15 5000 series is the smallest 15&quot; I have found (it weighs under 4lbs, but still has a 15&quot; screen) that supports 32GBs of RAM. Due to its InfinityEdge display, its dimensions are barely larger than the MSI above (and smaller in some ways), at 14.06&quot; x 9.27&quot; x 0.66&quot;. Dell states it supports 32GB of RAM, but currently only sells it with 16, presumably because it is a recent release (Q4 2015).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as connectors, it comes with 1 Thunderbolt and 1 HDMI, so again, adapters would be required. As far as Linux, again I can't find confirmation of it on Dell's site but [Tom's says it is supported][5], and Dell has supported Linux offerings in the past. And as far as the port replicator, I don't know, but it *is* a business-class Dell (although it is a thin-and-light version), so I'm not sure. Starting price is $1399, so you'll probably pay $1800-2000 for one with 32GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0u2jI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/gxm/th2go/digital_se/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.xoticpc.com/msi-gs40-phantom001-eta-mid-oct-2015-p-8719.html?startcustomization=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/N2AZu.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.tomsitpro.com/articles/dell-skylake-precision-workstations,1-2925.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1474" RevisionGUID="46bf6e5b-48a7-40a4-a9de-f337551b9b61" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:17:21.407" UserId="819" Text="I've had good success with the following card on Mac:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Diamond VC500](http://www.linux-hardware-guide.com/2014-02-08-diamond-vc500-one-touch-video-usb-2-0-video-grabber)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has Linux support as well according to the link, but I have not tested it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1474" RevisionGUID="bd8dd7d5-dd45-40ee-86bb-66da15a3ba76" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:38:06.487" UserId="819" Comment="Added content" Text="I've had good success with the following card on Mac:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Diamond VC500](http://www.linux-hardware-guide.com/2014-02-08-diamond-vc500-one-touch-video-usb-2-0-video-grabber)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has Linux support as well according to the link, but I have not tested it. Here are the specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;* Supports NTSC and PAL&#xD;&#xA;* Captures Composite RCA or S-Video input&#xD;&#xA;* 640 x 480 @30FPS NTSC video capture&#xD;&#xA;* 720 x 576 @25FPS PAL video capture&#xD;&#xA;* Included Software: Videoglide for Mac OS, EZGrabber for Windows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 MAC FAQs](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500mac-faqs.html)&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 Quick Installation Guide](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500-quick-installation-guide.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1475" RevisionGUID="fcc5ec68-da18-4b2f-a928-f5088d8bd399" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:39:26.483" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend the [LG 34UM95C][1]. It is a great 34&quot; WQHD 21:9 monitor that would be great for both movies and game. It is good for movies since it is a 21:9 ratio so the top black bars in movies are gone. Combined with the excellent color reproduction of the IPS display, it makes movies very enjoyable. The 5ms response time is also great for gaming for minimal lag. The UltraWide also makes the game more immersive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34UM95C-P-ultrawide-led-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1476" RevisionGUID="99f3fa37-85ca-46e0-8653-d877f2282282" CreationDate="2015-12-08T04:00:04.183" UserId="1183" Text="The Magic Mouse is totally perfect for Blender 3D. &#xD;&#xA;My argument though comes with a caveat, you need to install the Better Touch Tool (BTT) and add more gesture. (See picture attached). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you have middle click (By using 3 finger Click) and all the rest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Better Touch Tool][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did bough the M557 as well but I sell it after awhile and I just love the magic mouse so much (Apparently with the help of BTT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8YJuQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1476" RevisionGUID="8ffa41a9-289c-4241-b891-db620016e723" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:13:23.453" UserId="128" Comment="Clarity in last paragraph, change the image to a protocol dependent link." Text="The Magic Mouse is totally perfect for Blender 3D. &#xD;&#xA;My argument though comes with a caveat, you need to install the Better Touch Tool (BTT) and add more gestures. (See picture attached). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you have middle click (By using 3 finger Click) and all the rest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Better Touch Tool][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did buy the M557 as well but I sold it after awhile since I just love the magic mouse so much (Apparently with the help of BTT).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: //i.stack.imgur.com/8YJuQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1476" RevisionGUID="8ffa41a9-289c-4241-b891-db620016e723" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:13:23.453" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 315" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1477" RevisionGUID="dbb3e076-988e-42f4-bddf-5fdcc757c3cf" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:46:34.120" UserId="1184" Text="The **[HP ENVY 32](http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-envy-32-inch-media-display-with-beats-audio)** is what I'd recommend for gaming and movies&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a slight step up from 1080p which has a resolution of 2560 x 1440 (60 hertz) but without the strain of 4K on price and your computer. It has a fast 7ms response time which shouldn't cause any lag in games. It comes with a remote control which also makes it great for watching movies along with a bright 300 nits display. Reviews also praise this monitor for providing a great movie and gaming experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vXkvE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="95fdea11-dea7-4005-8c34-2e3473b3e297" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:58:28.090" UserId="1184" Text="The **[ISAW EDGE](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW Air and WING may also work as they offer similar functionality but at a cheaper price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="418d7ce7-2e25-44a7-914a-27043dcbd8f0" CreationDate="2015-12-08T06:04:23.173" UserId="1184" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="The **[ISAW EDGE ~$189](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW Air** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos but requires a case for waterproof (~$25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW WING** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos and features a 40m waterproof housing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="aeb9f17b-cbe1-4cce-b3b1-1f8e73e3737a" CreationDate="2015-12-08T07:28:18.040" UserId="-1" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:65,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;James&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5304" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="aea09722-feff-452a-8097-182085b878ed" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:16:45.687" UserId="1033" Comment="Narrowed down inches from title." Text="30&quot;-35&quot; Monitor for gaming and movies" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="cd097736-13cf-4537-81f2-bf13365b8a7d" CreationDate="2015-12-08T10:02:46.083" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="In [this question][1] I received the response to which graphics model should I go with. Now, as I started calculating using [this decibel calculator][2], the fact that I am trying to buy quiet 8.9 dB fans (total = 20.9 dB) will be negligable if a graphics card will generate 36 dB (which is what I found [here][3]) - than the total noise will be 37.081 dB.&#xD;&#xA;However, on [Tomshardware][4] I found this to be more nuanced, but also incomplete (no MSI card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What graphics card manufacturer would you recommend for GTX960 noise-wise (the price differences are negligible)? Or maybe there are other considerations under 250$ for gaming setup (i5-6500, 8GB ram, 240GB SDD, 4 140mm fans, MSI170 pro gaming mobo, 1280 x 1024 res) that are significantly quieter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of 'silent mode' (fans turning off on idle) which is apparently implemented by all manufacturers in GTX 960 ([source][4]). The question is about the fan noise under load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1233/ultra-graphics-performance-for-a-penny&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-coherentsources.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-oc-review,10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="2a97c172-67ad-4f70-a27c-ac6fbf9a201a" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:12:27.677" UserId="1033" Comment="Cut out &quot;opinion based&quot; part." Text="I'm looking for a new PC monitor that will last for a long time. Right now I have some Samsung monitor, and I'm happy with it; however, it has &lt;2k, and it's 7 years old, so I figured it's time for upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 2000zł(~470euro|~500$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What monitor would be nice in this budget, for gaming and watching movies?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="6c771096-7c48-4497-b036-7562d1598dd0" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:23:17.827" UserId="1033" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a new PC monitor that will last for a long time. Right now I have some Samsung monitor, and I'm happy with it; however, it has &lt;2k, and it's 7 years old, so I figured it's time for upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 2000zł(~470euro|~500$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What monitor would be nice in this budget, 2k or more, for gaming and watching movies?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1481" RevisionGUID="4f403cda-bab3-4b09-9509-e9f21d5375d0" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:06:21.133" UserId="1188" Text="I need a 30 meters long HDMI cable. I've found solid cables that achieve this measure, and also found RJ45 adapters to extend short cables:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there any disadvantage in terms of video/audio quality, in using the RJ45 extensor?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is much cheaper, and in case it suffers any damage it would be much easier and cheap to replace it, so I have great interest in using it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NRQxd.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rWkDa.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1481" RevisionGUID="4f403cda-bab3-4b09-9509-e9f21d5375d0" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:06:21.133" UserId="1188" Text="Large HDMI cable. Solid versus RJ45 Extensor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1481" RevisionGUID="4f403cda-bab3-4b09-9509-e9f21d5375d0" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:06:21.133" UserId="1188" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="7fc4c142-9d1f-447b-ae43-8010b53e8ae6" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:33:20.700" UserId="425" Comment="improved formatting, removed civilities" Text="Currently we have an old Radware Linkproof with software limited bandwidth to access internet from LAN via 3 different WAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need something better and we are looking for advices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal product, besides load balancing and recovery on link failure, should do some traffic shaping too. At least it should limit the bandwidth available to each connection in order to avoid that a single LAN user could saturate the WAN link. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum requirement&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - 3 WAN ports&#xD;&#xA;   -Tto be used in front of a firewall. Alternatively it should support 3 internal sub-networks.&#xD;&#xA;   - Total throughput of 20 Mb&#xD;&#xA;   - support for VPN with client software on road warrior&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="7fc4c142-9d1f-447b-ae43-8010b53e8ae6" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:33:20.700" Comment="Proposed by 425 approved by -1 edit id of 319" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="738" RevisionGUID="d95eb8c7-20d5-48ef-b84d-78fd8f08117e" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:33:20.700" UserId="60" Comment="improved formatting, removed civilities" Text="Currently we have an old Radware Linkproof with software limited bandwidth to access internet from LAN via 3 different WAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need something better and we are looking for advices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal product, besides load balancing and recovery on link failure, should do some traffic shaping too. At least it should limit the bandwidth available to each connection in order to avoid that a single LAN user could saturate the WAN link. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum requirement&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - 3 WAN ports&#xD;&#xA;   - To be used in front of a firewall. Alternatively it should support 3 internal sub-networks.&#xD;&#xA;   - Total throughput of 20 Mb&#xD;&#xA;   - support for VPN with client software on road warrior&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="00de6822-6fdf-412c-9f1a-94e09001a08e" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:35:15.030" UserId="425" Comment="don't need civilities and improved formatting." Text="What's the best mouse pad for me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially for Counter Strike: GO &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My settings are: &#xD;&#xA;* Mouse: MadCatz M.M.O. 7&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse driver dpi: 800&#xD;&#xA;* Windows dpi: standard&#xD;&#xA;* Acceleration: off&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse grip: palm&#xD;&#xA;* Finger set: 1+2+2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for some mouses coloured pads might not be the best option.  &#xD;&#xA;Any size will work.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="00de6822-6fdf-412c-9f1a-94e09001a08e" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:35:15.030" Comment="Proposed by 425 approved by -1 edit id of 316" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="685" RevisionGUID="494ade08-3c94-4590-a749-75954cb99526" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:35:15.030" UserId="60" Comment="don't need civilities and improved formatting." Text="What's the best mouse pad for me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially for Counter Strike: GO &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My settings are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse: MadCatz M.M.O. 7&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse driver dpi: 800&#xD;&#xA;* Windows dpi: standard&#xD;&#xA;* Acceleration: off&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse grip: palm&#xD;&#xA;* Finger set: 1+2+2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that for some mouses coloured pads might not be the best option.  &#xD;&#xA;Any size will work.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="14c15cc6-b132-41c9-b5fa-f399d54c9e88" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:51:09.787" UserId="425" Comment="reformatting" Text="I'm looking for a HDTV capable of playing [HEVC h.265][1] encoded videos from USB/PEN drive. Most of the HDTVs support h.264 standard but I could find any playing h.265 standard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More over it would be better if it has the below features (not necessarily but better if they are present)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Multiple USB ports&#xD;&#xA; 2. Multiple HDMI ports&#xD;&#xA; 3. LED display&#xD;&#xA; 4. Ethernet / Wifi support&#xD;&#xA; 5. 4K resolution class&#xD;&#xA; 6. 32 inches or higher&#xD;&#xA; 7. 3D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price range is at most $1800 and it should not be an Android TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X265" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="14c15cc6-b132-41c9-b5fa-f399d54c9e88" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:51:09.787" Comment="Proposed by 425 approved by 60, 1 edit id of 318" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="543" RevisionGUID="2fa04963-0888-492b-8c5c-ee3ce189069a" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:53:13.700" UserId="60" Comment="Cleaned up the question and made it easier to read." Text="I am thinking about upgrading my laptop and I cannot decide between the two following Lenovo laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Lenovo G50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-g50-laptop-intel-core-i7-8gb-ram-1tb-15-6-/p1947933)&#xD;&#xA;- [Lenovo Z50](http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-z50-laptop-amd-fx-8gb-ram-1tb-8gb-sshd-15-6-/p1756529)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both laptops are priced at £499. One contains an AMD FX-7500 APU, an R7 dedicated graphics card, an SSHD and a 1080p screen. The other contains an i7-5500U without an SSHD or a full-HD screen. Both come with 8GB of RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop will be used for video editing, work (Word, PowerPoint, etc.) and some occasional casual gaming (not as important). Any advice or help would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1483" RevisionGUID="09738129-0145-42ae-a101-717a4e21ef6f" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:31:37.367" UserId="1191" Text="Is there a device (laptop, TV, single-board computer, smartphone) that has HDMI port that can consume video (1080p @ 30 fps) and give it to Linux running on it (that can save it to file or encode it with FFmpeg or whatever)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDCP is optional. Usable hardware video encoder is nice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1483" RevisionGUID="09738129-0145-42ae-a101-717a4e21ef6f" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:31:37.367" UserId="1191" Text="Cheap device that have HDMI in and can run root-accessible Linux that can access this video data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1483" RevisionGUID="09738129-0145-42ae-a101-717a4e21ef6f" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:31:37.367" UserId="1191" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1463" RevisionGUID="5246fd5c-650d-4a7d-814e-d32adcd97406" CreationDate="2015-12-09T06:45:51.117" UserId="248" Comment="13" />
  <row Id="5339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1452" RevisionGUID="07f83f71-ada8-455a-a1b4-22e5691857f3" CreationDate="2015-12-09T10:06:40.710" UserId="1155" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="My current setup is a _Virgin Media SuperHub_ and a _CSL - 300 Mbit/s USB 2.0 WiFi Dongle_. I however am getting inconsistent connectivity just 5/6 Metres (down the hall) from the hub, and when I am connected I only get [~15MB/s download speeds](http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4888218243) at the best of times, on a connection which has clocked 150Mb/s+ over a hardwire. I understand that I shouldn't expect speeds that high on 2.4GHz at a distance, but the SuperHub does provide 5GHz which is entirely unused at the moment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leads me to my question, what would be the best way to utilise the unused band? I have been looking into Range Extenders, such as the [NETGEAR EX6150](http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00V6B9XS2/), but I also came across some [articles](http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/network-wifi/how-set-up-router-as-repeater-3494655/) mentioning that you can just set up a router to act as an extender. This second option looks preferable, and cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution I'm hoping for would allow me to connect my Desktops (2 of them) to the network via a hardwire to the second router (acting as an extender) as well as improving connectivity for my other devices (phone &amp; laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What routers are there that are capable of this? It must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- act as a wireless repeater for an existing network&#xD;&#xA;- be under or around £60 ($85)&#xD;&#xA;- bonus points if it can be a standalone router too&#xD;&#xA;- have wired Ethernet (minimum x2) and wireless output capabilities&#xD;&#xA;- be able to use the 5GHz band" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1315" RevisionGUID="1b53e974-b5d2-43f9-8b1f-b2b096e70a18" CreationDate="2015-12-09T11:44:33.893" UserId="476" Comment="Grammatical fixing" Text="We are putting together an e-sports team at college and among the games we play. There's Project M on the Wii and Melee on the GameCube, so we need a CVBS/RCA video capture card to record and upload our gameplay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far we have tried with an Encore and a GreenLeaf video capture card without any success. We were unable to find any decent USB/PCI/PCIe capture cards that support this kind of input. What is a good hardware choice for this? It must be compatible with Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1484" RevisionGUID="6aa8d55b-e2c7-4e3e-8a8c-169588fd1b41" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:23:29.857" UserId="1062" Text="**I currently have a MSI R9 380 GAMING 4Gb card**, and was wondering if this would be a advisable upgrade **when compared to my current card**?&#xD;&#xA;(**E.G. performance to dollar specification wise**) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if not **what would be a viable alternative** for around 300 dollars?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current PC:  &#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE LGA 1150 INTEL B85 SATA3 MATX MOBO  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel i7-4770k  &#xD;&#xA;- 32 gb DDR3 ram  &#xD;&#xA;- Msi R9 380 4gb  &#xD;&#xA;- 750w corsair CX750  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel 750 series 480 gb ssd  &#xD;&#xA;- Fractal Design Define R4 case  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:** I'm asking for hardware recommendations; I've now edited this and included bolded important sections." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1484" RevisionGUID="6aa8d55b-e2c7-4e3e-8a8c-169588fd1b41" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:23:29.857" UserId="1062" Text="Is the ASUS Radeon R9 390 STRIX 8Gb product that would be advisable to buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1484" RevisionGUID="6aa8d55b-e2c7-4e3e-8a8c-169588fd1b41" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:23:29.857" UserId="1062" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1484" RevisionGUID="1f8be0fd-cca5-4db0-9cf3-0762ba863ad5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:29:55.687" UserId="1062" Comment="deleted 48 characters in body" Text="**I currently have a MSI R9 380 GAMING 4Gb card**, and was wondering how it would compare to my current card?&#xD;&#xA;(**E.G. performance to dollar wise**) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if not **what would be a viable alternative** for around 300 dollars?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current PC:  &#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE LGA 1150 INTEL B85 SATA3 MATX MOBO  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel i7-4770k  &#xD;&#xA;- 32 gb DDR3 ram  &#xD;&#xA;- Msi R9 380 4gb  &#xD;&#xA;- 750w corsair CX750  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel 750 series 480 gb ssd  &#xD;&#xA;- Fractal Design Define R4 case  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:** I'm asking for hardware recommendations; I've now edited this and included bolded important sections." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1485" RevisionGUID="6aaa61c6-9cf7-4360-9ecc-4efe186df1c4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:30:14.103" UserId="1132" Text="I am looking at a cheap-o-mic and I want to know what to look for.&#xD;&#xA;For example an extremely cheap mic I found has the following spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Condenser Microphone&#xD;&#xA;-Frequency response:30Hz-20KHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Polar Pattern:Cardioid(0°-180°@1KHz &gt; 12db)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Signal to Noise Ratio:70dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Highest Sound Pressure Level:120dB S.P.L&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Sensitivity:25mV/Pa (-32dB±2dB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Microphone amplifier function&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-2.5m cable with 3.5mm Jack &amp;USB connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Power supply:USB DC5V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really have no idea what to expect." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1485" RevisionGUID="6aaa61c6-9cf7-4360-9ecc-4efe186df1c4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:30:14.103" UserId="1132" Text="What makes a good condensor mic?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1485" RevisionGUID="6aaa61c6-9cf7-4360-9ecc-4efe186df1c4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:30:14.103" UserId="1132" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1485" RevisionGUID="da877fa8-cf42-4fd6-8668-200530e72091" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:08:22.623" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed formatting, added info from comment." Text="I am looking at a cheap-o mic and I want to know what to look for.  I am wanting to make some youtube videos but can't break the bank yet.&#xD;&#xA;For example, an extremely cheap mic I found ([USB Studio Condenser Recording Microphone Vocal Singing Podcast Mic With Stand](http://www.ebay.com/itm/331590872220)) for GBP 18.99 has the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Condenser Microphone&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;- Frequency response: 30Hz-20KHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Polar Pattern: Cardioid(0°-180°@1KHz &gt; 12db)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Signal to Noise Ratio:70dB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Highest Sound Pressure Level:120dB S.P.L&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensitivity: 25mV/Pa (-32dB±2dB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Microphone amplifier function&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2.5m cable with 3.5mm Jack &amp;USB connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Power supply:USB DC5V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really have no idea what to expect." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5351" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1485" RevisionGUID="da877fa8-cf42-4fd6-8668-200530e72091" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:08:22.623" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 8 edit id of 322" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="c7c3f644-6889-449f-b2f2-272969c20c47" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:26:37.473" UserId="203" Comment="Removed slight ambiguity, improved flow." Text="In [this question][1] I received the response to which graphics model should I go with. Now, as I started calculating using [this decibel calculator][2], the fact that I am trying to buy quiet 8.9 dB fans (total = 20.9 dB) will be negligable if a graphics card will generate 36 dB (which is what I found [here][3]) - than the total noise will be 37.081 dB.&#xD;&#xA;However, on [Tomshardware][4] I found this to be more nuanced, but also incomplete (no MSI card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What graphics card manufacturer would you recommend for GTX960 noise-wise, provided the price differences are negligible? Or maybe there are other considerations under 250$ for gaming setup (i5-6500, 8GB ram, 240GB SDD, 4 140mm fans, MSI170 pro gaming mobo, 1280 x 1024 res) that are significantly quieter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of 'silent mode', where fans turn off on idle, which is apparently implemented by all manufacturers in GTX 960 ([source][4]). The question is about the fan noise under load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1233/ultra-graphics-performance-for-a-penny&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-coherentsources.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-oc-review,10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="c7c3f644-6889-449f-b2f2-272969c20c47" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:26:37.473" Comment="Proposed by 203 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 321" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1474" RevisionGUID="cf75140c-31f3-4ab7-b259-a619e7a87d59" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:14:39.930" UserId="819" Comment="Added references" Text="I've had good success with the following card on Mac:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Diamond VC500](http://www.linux-hardware-guide.com/2014-02-08-diamond-vc500-one-touch-video-usb-2-0-video-grabber)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has Linux support as well according to the link, but I have not tested it. Here are the specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;* Supports NTSC and PAL&#xD;&#xA;* Captures Composite RCA or S-Video input&#xD;&#xA;* 640 x 480 @30FPS NTSC video capture&#xD;&#xA;* 720 x 576 @25FPS PAL video capture&#xD;&#xA;* Included Software: Videoglide for Mac OS, EZGrabber for Windows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 MAC FAQs](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500mac-faqs.html)&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 Quick Installation Guide](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500-quick-installation-guide.html)&#xD;&#xA;* [EZGrabber Video Capture Driver](http://www.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php?driverid=1803090)&#xD;&#xA;* [VideoGlide for Mac OSX](http://www.echofx.com/videoglide.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1487" RevisionGUID="0fe8935c-ba3d-4783-b4a5-643500ff3e23" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:28:57.140" UserId="1072" Text="I need to purchase a new Mac to run Final Cut Pro X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- We plan to use FCPX to edit video of our weekly church service shot by 3 cameras.&#xD;&#xA;- Sound will come directly from the sound board.&#xD;&#xA;- I don't expect we'll use much in the way of filters/effects, etc. (This is new territory for me so I don't know for sure if that's accurate.)&#xD;&#xA;- The final videos will be high definition.&#xD;&#xA;- The video will be posted online and in the future we intend to stream the video live to a remote campus and are considering the possibility of using a QuickTime server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on my research, I understand the importance of hardware components for this workflow to be in this order:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Video card/Amount of VRAM&#xD;&#xA;2. Storage speed&#xD;&#xA;3. Processor speed&#xD;&#xA;4. Amount of system memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems obvious the &quot;best&quot; setup would be a Mac Pro (currently $2999+ without a display).  But with a not-for-profit budget, if I don't have to spend $4000 for a complete setup I'd rather not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assume an an iMac with these specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3.2GHz quad-core Intel Core i5 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz)&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB (two 4GB) memory, configurable up to 32GB&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB Fusion Drive&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Radeon R9 M390 with 2GB video memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would FCPX used as I describe above on these specs of an iMac make for a lot of waiting on the system while editing?  Should I be looking at something different in hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Can someone with 150 rep add some suitable tags, e.g. 'video-editing', 'mac', etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1487" RevisionGUID="0fe8935c-ba3d-4783-b4a5-643500ff3e23" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:28:57.140" UserId="1072" Text="Final Cut Pro X: iMac or Mac Pro for House of Worship?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1487" RevisionGUID="0fe8935c-ba3d-4783-b4a5-643500ff3e23" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:28:57.140" UserId="1072" Text="&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1487" RevisionGUID="431b8fcd-2d3e-4a8d-b791-9fa5378957d2" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:32:35.183" UserId="1" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="887" RevisionGUID="748bcffe-c297-44f0-a449-4b8b16a667dd" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:57:13.207" UserId="-1" Comment="12" />
  <row Id="5369" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1484" RevisionGUID="be98f219-86e2-4f33-bd27-7bfb414f8f9f" CreationDate="2015-12-09T18:31:05.257" UserId="1062" Comment="edited title" Text="Is the ASUS Radeon R9 390 STRIX 8Gb a product that would be advisable to buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1495" RevisionGUID="5d44b673-7f06-414d-ac33-718f765ae7d3" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:50:41.993" UserId="1115" Text="I am a computer science student with specialization in machine learning and I need a new notebook. I work inside most of the time, but I take my notebook to presentations / collaborative development / lectures quite often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Past Notebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using the [Acer TravelMate 5744Z](http://martin-thoma.com/review-des-acer-travelmate-5744z/#tocAnchor-1-1). It has several pain points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Only 4 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* No SSD&#xD;&#xA;* Weak CPU: I compile LaTeX documents VERY often. So single-threaded CPU power does matter to me.&#xD;&#xA;* Too heavy&#xD;&#xA;* Battery lasts for about 2h (3.7h according to the specs)&#xD;&#xA;* 15.6&quot; screen which I like very much&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And some good points&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Everything works out of the box on Linux&#xD;&#xA;* It's VERY silent! (29,6 - 32,0 dB(A) in idle mode, according to [notebookcheck](http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Acer-TravelMate-5744Z-P624G50Mikk-Notebook.71588.0.html))&#xD;&#xA;* Sturdy enough to be put into my backpack without any protective case&#xD;&#xA;* The size of the keyboard is comfortable. I don't need the numpad, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I was happy with that notebook. However, as the battery seems / the power supply unit seems to have problems now. Together with the other issues, I think it is time for a new notebook, as I use it many hours every single day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Hard Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be available in Germany&#xD;&#xA;* Has to work with Linux&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 2000 Euro&#xD;&#xA;* At least 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SSD with at least 250 GB&#xD;&#xA;* Not heavier than 2.5 kg (inclusive battery, of course!)&#xD;&#xA;* Battery has to last for at least 5 hours under random web surfing.&#xD;&#xA;* Resolution of at least 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 16&quot; screen, not less than 13.3&quot; (I'm not too sure if I will like small screens, though. And I'm not sure how I can figure that out without buying such a notebook)&#xD;&#xA;* Connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    * WLAN (which has to work out-of-the-box for Linux!)&#xD;&#xA;    * At least 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be silent under normal work load (e.g. surfing random web pages)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Positive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The follwing is positive, but I don't need it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* +++++&#xD;&#xA;  * D-SUB connector (VGA connector)&#xD;&#xA;  * Good keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * German keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;* +++&#xD;&#xA;  * RJ45 slot for network&#xD;&#xA;  * Matte display&#xD;&#xA;  * NVidia GPU which can be used for machine learning&#xD;&#xA;  * Less than 2.0 kg&#xD;&#xA;  * A review by a developer who uses Linux&#xD;&#xA;* ++&#xD;&#xA;  * USB 3.0 / USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA;* +&#xD;&#xA;  * Aluminium case&#xD;&#xA;  * Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * Webcam / microphone&#xD;&#xA;* Neutral / I don't care&#xD;&#xA;  * Numpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Additional information&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I'm able to add RAM to the notebook by myself. I did so several times with desktop computers. However, if it doesn't make a price difference of more than 40 Euro I would prefer to let it be done by others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Related question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My notebook (kind of) still works. I could wait for 2 more months without problems. Is there any benefit of waiting? Do prices significantly differ after Christmas? Are there new interesting notebooks being released?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1495" RevisionGUID="5d44b673-7f06-414d-ac33-718f765ae7d3" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:50:41.993" UserId="1115" Text="Notebook for developers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1495" RevisionGUID="5d44b673-7f06-414d-ac33-718f765ae7d3" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:50:41.993" UserId="1115" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1495" RevisionGUID="44824898-9eb8-439d-bcf4-f0abc1dc446d" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:57:30.390" UserId="1115" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="I am a computer science student with specialization in machine learning and I need a new notebook. I work inside most of the time, but I take my notebook to presentations / collaborative development / lectures quite often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Past Notebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using the [Acer TravelMate 5744Z](http://martin-thoma.com/review-des-acer-travelmate-5744z/#tocAnchor-1-1). It has several pain points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Only 4 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* No SSD&#xD;&#xA;* Weak CPU: I compile LaTeX documents VERY often. So single-threaded CPU power does matter to me.&#xD;&#xA;* Too heavy&#xD;&#xA;* Battery lasts for about 2h (3.7h according to the specs)&#xD;&#xA;* 15.6&quot; screen which I like very much&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And some good points&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Everything works out of the box on Linux&#xD;&#xA;* It's VERY silent! (29,6 - 32,0 dB(A) in idle mode, according to [notebookcheck](http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Acer-TravelMate-5744Z-P624G50Mikk-Notebook.71588.0.html))&#xD;&#xA;* Sturdy enough to be put into my backpack without any protective case&#xD;&#xA;* The size of the keyboard is comfortable. I don't need the numpad, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I was happy with that notebook. However, as the battery seems / the power supply unit seems to have problems now. Together with the other issues, I think it is time for a new notebook, as I use it many hours every single day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Hard Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be available in Germany&#xD;&#xA;* Has to work with Linux&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 2000 Euro&#xD;&#xA;* At least 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SSD with at least 250 GB&#xD;&#xA;* Not heavier than 2.5 kg (inclusive battery, of course!)&#xD;&#xA;* Battery has to last for at least 5 hours under random web surfing.&#xD;&#xA;* Resolution of at least 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 16&quot; screen, not less than 13.3&quot; (I'm not too sure if I will like small screens, though. And I'm not sure how I can figure that out without buying such a notebook)&#xD;&#xA;* Connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    * WLAN (which has to work out-of-the-box for Linux!)&#xD;&#xA;    * At least 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be silent under normal work load (e.g. surfing random web pages)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Positive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The follwing is positive, but I don't need it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* +++++&#xD;&#xA;  * D-SUB connector (VGA connector)&#xD;&#xA;  * Good keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * German keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;  * SD card reader&#xD;&#xA;* +++&#xD;&#xA;  * RJ45 slot for network&#xD;&#xA;  * DVD player&#xD;&#xA;  * Matte display&#xD;&#xA;  * NVidia GPU which can be used for machine learning&#xD;&#xA;  * Less than 2.0 kg&#xD;&#xA;  * A review by a developer who uses Linux&#xD;&#xA;* ++&#xD;&#xA;  * USB 3.0 / USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA;* +&#xD;&#xA;  * Aluminium case&#xD;&#xA;  * Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * Webcam / microphone&#xD;&#xA;  * Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* Neutral / I don't care&#xD;&#xA;  * Numpad&#xD;&#xA;  * Blue-Ray player&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Additional information&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I'm able to add RAM to the notebook by myself. I did so several times with desktop computers. However, if it doesn't make a price difference of more than 40 Euro I would prefer to let it be done by others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Related question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My notebook (kind of) still works. I could wait for 2 more months without problems. Is there any benefit of waiting? Do prices significantly differ after Christmas? Are there new interesting notebooks being released?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="6c8aaea4-ce6e-4ec4-8d07-30165c88d4f0" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:41:37.837" UserId="1207" Text="I want to build a home-made multi-room home sound system. &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a single board computer device with a minimal hardware configuration. In my thoughts my only requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* wifi connection&#xD;&#xA;* audio output&#xD;&#xA;* push button to config wireless network through wps&#xD;&#xA;* a led to show current network status&#xD;&#xA;* optionally an rj45 connection for development through ssh&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually no video output is required, nor additional usb ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What could by the cheapest solution for my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="6c8aaea4-ce6e-4ec4-8d07-30165c88d4f0" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:41:37.837" UserId="1207" Text="Cheapest single computer board with wifi and audio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="6c8aaea4-ce6e-4ec4-8d07-30165c88d4f0" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:41:37.837" UserId="1207" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1498" RevisionGUID="6c49486c-61f1-4a2f-a144-dd34b2fc48e7" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:51:08.030" UserId="1203" Text="I'm looking for a high contrast video recorder, 1080p. I have ordered a Zoom H6, and I expect to mount it on the camera, and I'd like to be able to syncronize the video and audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to be able to extend its usage with a steadycam, and be able to take regular high-quality pictures with it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my primary expected usage is to record video outdoors in high contrast environments, and secondarily record video of speakers in front of a bright projection screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1498" RevisionGUID="6c49486c-61f1-4a2f-a144-dd34b2fc48e7" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:51:08.030" UserId="1203" Text="High contrast video recorder, 1080p, to use with Zoom H6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1498" RevisionGUID="6c49486c-61f1-4a2f-a144-dd34b2fc48e7" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:51:08.030" UserId="1203" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="82d86108-f9b7-47fe-949c-3cb5dae961fc" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:04:06.490" UserId="1184" Comment="added 1380 characters in body" Text="Depending on your needs I've added a few various cameras. All are great choices and meet the specifications the question provided. I'd say the ISAW would be the best fit for you but I've added a few other choices if you'll like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;# ISAW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **[ISAW EDGE ~$189](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ISAW EDGE Picture][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW Air** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos but requires a case for waterproof (~$25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW WING** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos and features a 40m waterproof housing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ISAW offers well balanced specs at a reasonable price, it has a relatively easy-to-use graphical interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GoPro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The popular GoPro is a popular choice for a sports and action camera. While price ranges, GoPros have a wide range of accessories and mounts to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro I'd recommend is the [**GoPro Hero ~$129**](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301.html). If you want, a WiFi equipped model which also offers *slightly* better specs, it's starts at [$199](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/heroplus/CHDHC-101.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![GoPro Hero picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro Hero can take 1080p @30fps (60 WiFi model) video, photos can be taken at 5MP (8MP WiFi model), and supports up to a 32GB MicroSD. It's also waterproof up to 40 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already talked about the HERO with WiFi but the [HERO4](http://shop.gopro.com/hero4/hero4-session/CHDHS-101.html) Session also the same specs as the HERO with WiFi at the same price. The HERO4 though has a much simpler design, which can work great for hobby use but may lack functionality for power-users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'd recommend the GoPro if you'll take advantage of it's wide-array of mounts, it's durability and its easy-of-use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cxhzP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="d6442331-1545-452f-8e74-333bb4b27cb9" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:09:18.380" UserId="1184" Comment="added 1380 characters in body" Text="Depending on your needs I've added a few various cameras. All are great choices and meet the specifications the question provided. I'd say the ISAW would be the best fit for you but I've added a few other choices if you'll like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;# ISAW, $100 - $189&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **[ISAW EDGE ~$189](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ISAW EDGE Picture][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW Air** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos but requires a case for waterproof (~$25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW WING** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos and features a 40m waterproof housing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ISAW offers well balanced specs at a reasonable price, it has a relatively easy-to-use graphical interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GoPro, $129 - $199&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The popular GoPro is a popular choice for a sports and action camera. While price ranges, GoPros have a wide range of accessories and mounts to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro I'd recommend is the [**GoPro Hero ~$129**](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301.html). If you want, a WiFi equipped model which also offers *slightly* better specs, it's starts at [$199](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/heroplus/CHDHC-101.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![GoPro Hero picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro Hero can take 1080p @30fps (60 WiFi model) video, photos can be taken at 5MP (8MP WiFi model), and supports up to a 32GB MicroSD. It's also waterproof up to 40 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already talked about the HERO with WiFi but the [HERO4](http://shop.gopro.com/hero4/hero4-session/CHDHS-101.html) Session also the same specs as the HERO with WiFi at the same price. The HERO4 though has a much simpler design, which can work great for hobby use but may lack functionality for power-users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'd recommend the GoPro if you'll take advantage of it's wide-array of mounts, it's durability and its easy-of-use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cxhzP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="b395866c-ece9-44af-8f82-a2e6f0410294" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:40:01.653" UserId="1184" Comment="added 1380 characters in body" Text="Depending on your needs I've added a few various cameras. All are great choices and meet the specifications the question provided, but it's up to you to decide which one you think fits your needs best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;# Sony Action Cam - $115 - $199&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend Sony's [Action Cam](http://www.sony.com/electronics/actioncam/hdr-as20) line up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Sony Action Cam][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony's Action Cam offers a *wide* variety of features, a quality build, and all at a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony offers a wide variety of their Action Cams, but I'll be recommending the [AS20 + Wi-Fi](http://sony.com/electronics/actioncam/hdr-as20). The Sony &quot;Action Cam&quot;s can take 1080p @60fps and great 11.9MP photos. It supports 5m (16.5ft) waterproof which plenty for snorkeling / surfing. It also has video stabilization with SteadyShot which I've heard *great* things about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I **highly** recommend you take a look at the wide variety of Action Cams, these don't get too expensive and offer many features. An example is the [Sony AS15](http://www.amazon.com/Sony-HDR-AS15-Action-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0090EC5MS) which is only $128 on Amazon and offers a similar set of features. Also, be on the lookout for discounts as these frequently go on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This camera has a lot to offer with it's wide variety of features making it a great choice if you'll be doing some shaky video or for general use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GoPro, $129 - $199&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The popular GoPro is a popular choice for a sports and action camera. While price ranges, GoPros have a wide range of accessories and mounts to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro I'd recommend is the [**GoPro Hero ~$129**](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301.html). If you want, a WiFi equipped model which also offers *slightly* better specs, it's starts at [$199](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/heroplus/CHDHC-101.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![GoPro Hero picture][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro Hero can take 1080p @30fps (60 WiFi model) video, photos can be taken at 5MP (8MP WiFi model), and supports up to a 32GB MicroSD. It's also waterproof up to 40 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already talked about the HERO with WiFi but the [HERO4](http://shop.gopro.com/hero4/hero4-session/CHDHS-101.html) Session also the same specs as the HERO with WiFi at the same price. The HERO4 though has a much simpler design, which can work great for hobby use but may lack functionality for power-users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'd recommend the GoPro if you'll take advantage of it's wide-array of mounts and accessories&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# ISAW, $100 - $189&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **[ISAW EDGE ~$189](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ISAW EDGE Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW Air** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos but requires a case for waterproof (~$25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW WING** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos and features a 40m waterproof housing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ISAW offers well balanced specs at a reasonable price, it has a relatively easy-to-use graphical interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cxhzP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JVRU5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1478" RevisionGUID="f9ba8b59-a72c-416d-aa1a-54c6e915659e" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:50:00.267" UserId="1184" Comment="added 1380 characters in body" Text="Depending on your needs I've added a few various cameras. All are great choices and meet the specifications the question provided, but it's up to you to decide which one you think fits your needs best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;# Sony Action Cam - $115 - $198&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend Sony's [Action Cam](http://www.sony.com/electronics/actioncam/hdr-as20) line up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Sony Action Cam][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony's Action Cam offers a *wide* variety of features, a quality build, and all at a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony offers a wide variety of their Action Cams, but I'll be recommending the [AS2000V](http://amzn.com/B00R1COCVI). The Sony &quot;Action Cam&quot;s can take 1080p @60fps and great 8.8MP photos. It supports 240fps slow-mo, and a great microphone. It supports 60m waterproof. It also has video stabilization with SteadyShot which I've heard *great* things about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I **highly** recommend you take a look at the wide variety of Action Cams, these don't get too expensive and offer many features. An example is the [Sony AS15](http://www.amazon.com/Sony-HDR-AS15-Action-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0090EC5MS) which is only $128 on Amazon and offers a similar set of features. Also, be on the lookout for discounts as these frequently go on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This camera has a lot to offer with it's wide variety of features making it a great choice if you'll be doing some shaky video, low-light filming, or for general use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GoPro, $129 - $199&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The popular GoPro is a popular choice for a sports and action camera. While price ranges, GoPros have a wide range of accessories and mounts to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro I'd recommend is the [**GoPro Hero ~$129**](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301.html). If you want, a WiFi equipped model which also offers *slightly* better specs, it's starts at [$199](http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/heroplus/CHDHC-101.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![GoPro Hero picture][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GoPro Hero can take 1080p @30fps (60 WiFi model) video, photos can be taken at 5MP (8MP WiFi model), and supports up to a 32GB MicroSD. It's also waterproof up to 40 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already talked about the HERO with WiFi but the [HERO4](http://shop.gopro.com/hero4/hero4-session/CHDHS-101.html) Session also the same specs as the HERO with WiFi at the same price. The HERO4 though has a much simpler design, which can work great for hobby use but may lack functionality for power-users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'd recommend the GoPro if you'll take advantage of it's wide-array of mounts and accessories&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# ISAW, $100 - $189&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **[ISAW EDGE ~$189](http://www.amazon.com/ISAW-EDGE-Wi-Fi-Action-Camera/dp/B014MO8AOC)** seems to be a perfect fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ISAW EDGE Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ISAW EDGE can take 1080p @60fps, and even 4K. It can take up to a 64GB Micro SD card and can take 16MP stills. It features underwater capabilities up to 40m.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW Air** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos but requires a case for waterproof (~$25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ISAW WING** runs at 1080p @30fps, takes 12MP photos and features a 40m waterproof housing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ISAW offers well balanced specs at a reasonable price, it has a relatively easy-to-use graphical interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oFLIp.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cxhzP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JVRU5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1499" RevisionGUID="b442c91f-32e0-463b-9c5e-2c19f73b6aa6" CreationDate="2015-12-10T03:15:27.907" UserId="1184" Text="The RAM is probably the main change I would make to your proposed specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Narrowing Down the Options&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to want an iMac, especially for video editing, you're going to need a fast hard-disk, enough RAM, and definitely a good GPU. This immediately narrows down the selection to a 27-in 5K iMac. Why? The 5K iMacs are the only ones offering discrete graphics. The 21&quot; iMac offers only a 5400RPM hard disk which is *much* too slow for video-editing.&#xD;&#xA;### The Optimal Specs&#xD;&#xA;I'm going to assume you're editing 1080p video. 1080p video directly out of a camera can is around 300MP, for 10 minutes. OS X tend to use around ~4GB for the system, running Final Cut, live streaming video, and handling audio, 8GB might run out quickly. At the least 16GB what I'd say is the *minimum* RAM for your case. 32GB would be best.&#xD;&#xA;### What I'd Recommend &#xD;&#xA;I'm going to recommend the 27&quot; 5K iMac with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.2GHz quad-core i5 (base CPU)&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB Fusion Drive&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Radeon R9 M380 with 2GB video memory (base GPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With 16GB of RAM, this comes out to $1,969.00, and with 32GB $2,329.00&#xD;&#xA;### Alternative RAM Option&#xD;&#xA;If you're comfortable with manually upgrading the RAM (yes, 27&quot; 5K iMac has user-upgradable RAM). You can purchase an 8GB model and use a [OWC](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/1600DDR3S32S/) RAM upgrade kit (only $129-$249).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This brings your total price for a 16GB to $1,918 and for 32GB to $2,038" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1502" RevisionGUID="70b36c8d-ff32-4ff9-a7b1-b784334ee805" CreationDate="2015-12-10T07:53:41.527" UserId="1209" Text="Chromebook would be ideal for this.&#xD;&#xA;I have the asus c300 chromebook and installed linux on it, works perfect.&#xD;&#xA;You can see a review of chromebooks here: http://www.techradar.com/news/mobile-computing/laptops/best-chromebooks-top-5-chromebooks-in-the-us-1233696&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It silent, good battery time and cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how to install linux on a chromebook here: http://lifehacker.com/how-to-install-linux-on-a-chromebook-and-unlock-its-ful-509039343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="600c1eb4-5096-476e-8ec7-ae04d9f6addb" CreationDate="2015-12-10T07:59:54.713" UserId="1210" Text="At the time of writing, the [Samsung EVO 840][1] SSD retails at around $325 while the [Samsung EVO 850][2] SSD costs much less: around $150.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having looked at the specs for both products (see links above), they seem nearly identical in both interface, IOPS performance and sequential read and write performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why then would the EV0 840 cost so much more than the EVO 850?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/MZ-7TE500BW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/MZ-75E500B/AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="600c1eb4-5096-476e-8ec7-ae04d9f6addb" CreationDate="2015-12-10T07:59:54.713" UserId="1210" Text="Why does the Samsung EVO 840 SSD cost more than the Samsung EVO 850 SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="600c1eb4-5096-476e-8ec7-ae04d9f6addb" CreationDate="2015-12-10T07:59:54.713" UserId="1210" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1495" RevisionGUID="79938203-71d3-4e3a-b6c0-25b12cb8e053" CreationDate="2015-12-10T08:29:35.187" UserId="1115" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I am a computer science student with specialization in machine learning and I need a new notebook. I work inside most of the time, but I take my notebook to presentations / collaborative development / lectures quite often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Past Notebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using the [Acer TravelMate 5744Z](http://martin-thoma.com/review-des-acer-travelmate-5744z/#tocAnchor-1-1). It has several pain points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Only 4 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* No SSD&#xD;&#xA;* Weak CPU: I compile LaTeX documents VERY often. So single-threaded CPU power does matter to me.&#xD;&#xA;* Too heavy&#xD;&#xA;* Battery lasts for about 2h (3.7h according to the specs)&#xD;&#xA;* 15.6&quot; screen which I like very much&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And some good points&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Everything works out of the box on Linux&#xD;&#xA;* It's VERY silent! (29,6 - 32,0 dB(A) in idle mode, according to [notebookcheck](http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Acer-TravelMate-5744Z-P624G50Mikk-Notebook.71588.0.html))&#xD;&#xA;* Sturdy enough to be put into my backpack without any protective case&#xD;&#xA;* The size of the keyboard is comfortable. I don't need the numpad, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I was happy with that notebook. However, as the battery seems / the power supply unit seems to have problems now. Together with the other issues, I think it is time for a new notebook, as I use it many hours every single day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Hard Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be available in Germany&#xD;&#xA;* Has to work with Linux&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 2000 Euro&#xD;&#xA;* At least 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SSD with at least 120 GB&#xD;&#xA;* Not heavier than 2.5 kg (inclusive battery, of course!)&#xD;&#xA;* Battery has to last for at least 5 hours under random web surfing.&#xD;&#xA;* Resolution of at least 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;* Not more than 16&quot; screen, not less than 13.3&quot; (I'm not too sure if I will like small screens, though. And I'm not sure how I can figure that out without buying such a notebook)&#xD;&#xA;* Connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    * WLAN (which has to work out-of-the-box for Linux!)&#xD;&#xA;    * At least 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;* Has to be silent under normal work load (e.g. surfing random web pages)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Positive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The follwing is positive, but I don't need it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* +++++&#xD;&#xA;  * D-SUB connector (VGA connector)&#xD;&#xA;  * Good keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * German keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;  * SD card reader&#xD;&#xA;  * at least 256 GB of storage&#xD;&#xA;* +++&#xD;&#xA;  * RJ45 slot for network&#xD;&#xA;  * DVD player&#xD;&#xA;  * Matte display&#xD;&#xA;  * NVidia GPU which can be used for machine learning&#xD;&#xA;  * Less than 2.0 kg&#xD;&#xA;  * A review by a developer who uses Linux&#xD;&#xA;* ++&#xD;&#xA;  * USB 3.0 / USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA;* +&#xD;&#xA;  * Aluminium case&#xD;&#xA;  * Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  * Webcam / microphone&#xD;&#xA;  * Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* Neutral / I don't care&#xD;&#xA;  * Numpad&#xD;&#xA;  * Blue-Ray player&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Additional information&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I'm able to add RAM to the notebook by myself. I did so several times with desktop computers. However, if it doesn't make a price difference of more than 40 Euro I would prefer to let it be done by others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Related question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My notebook (kind of) still works. I could wait for 2 more months without problems. Is there any benefit of waiting? Do prices significantly differ after Christmas? Are there new interesting notebooks being released?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1504" RevisionGUID="a32553cf-aba7-453f-9fd6-fbb3555a1800" CreationDate="2015-12-10T10:49:07.343" UserId="204" Text="My grandfather has his 95 birthday. He did use a computer in the 70s for his business but never used a PC.&#xD;&#xA;We want to give him a notebook with a price point between 300€ and 400€. How do I chose the right notebook for a senior?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's matters I'm buying the notebook from Germany." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1504" RevisionGUID="a32553cf-aba7-453f-9fd6-fbb3555a1800" CreationDate="2015-12-10T10:49:07.343" UserId="204" Text="Notebook for a 95 year old grandfather" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1504" RevisionGUID="a32553cf-aba7-453f-9fd6-fbb3555a1800" CreationDate="2015-12-10T10:49:07.343" UserId="204" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1505" RevisionGUID="bf52430b-c03a-47b3-a43b-bcc32bb91c09" CreationDate="2015-12-10T12:50:33.000" UserId="203" Text="While this may not be the best solution depending on your case airflow, the [Arctic Accelero S3][1] may interest you. Passive cooling is more common on server components, but the Accelero S3 is a GPU heatsink that can support 135W TDP, or 200W with its &quot;Turbo Module&quot; (but it's just a fan, which rather defeats the purpose of the heatsink). While the Twin Frozr V is very quiet, it can't really beat not having fans at all. With good case airflow, [the  temperature is significantly higher, but not worryingly so][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why you may not want this:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It costs $55 dollars, which, while still being under budget if you pick one of the cheaper 960s to mod, this is a pretty hefty investment.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Other fans have to work harder, so the gains may not be obvious&#xD;&#xA; 3. This will probably void your warranty&#xD;&#xA; 4. It doesn't eliminate coil whine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, **why would you want this?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're serious about wanting a silent PC, and have already chosen a soundproofed case, quiet fans and a good CPU cooler, this is a good option. Otherwise, don't bother, there are easier and cheaper ways of quieting your PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-s3.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.overclockers.com/arctic-accelero-s3-passive-graphics-card-cooler-review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="d9409f43-c359-4efe-a3df-137ecaffc6ec" CreationDate="2015-12-10T13:35:55.633" UserId="1210" Comment="Restructured question to meet site guidelines" Text="I need to upgrade my Dell Inspiron 7352 laptop from its HDD to an SSD. I'm deliberating between two similar models of SSD:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Samsung EVO 840][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Samsung EVO 850][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having looked at the specs for both products. They seem nearly identical in both interface, IOPS performance and sequential read and write performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, at the time of writing, the EVO 840 retails at around $325 while the EVO 850 costs much less: around $150.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of the two models would you recommend considering the price differences? Does the costlier model have advantages that I'm missing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/MZ-7TE500BW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/MZ-75E500B/AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="d9409f43-c359-4efe-a3df-137ecaffc6ec" CreationDate="2015-12-10T13:35:55.633" UserId="1210" Comment="Restructured question to meet site guidelines" Text="Which 2.5&quot; SSD would you recommend for a Dell Inspiron laptop? Samsung's EVO 840 mode or EVO 850 model?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1502" RevisionGUID="f67ae63a-356e-42e3-ad41-f84f78c4e238" CreationDate="2015-12-10T13:57:58.277" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="Chromebook would be ideal for this.&#xD;&#xA;I have the asus c300 chromebook and installed linux on it, works perfectly.&#xD;&#xA;You can see a review of chromebooks here: http://www.techradar.com/news/mobile-computing/laptops/best-chromebooks-top-5-chromebooks-in-the-us-1233696&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's silent, has long battery life and is cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how to install linux on a chromebook here: http://lifehacker.com/how-to-install-linux-on-a-chromebook-and-unlock-its-ful-509039343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1502" RevisionGUID="f67ae63a-356e-42e3-ad41-f84f78c4e238" CreationDate="2015-12-10T13:57:58.277" Comment="Proposed by 54 approved by 1209 edit id of 325" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1507" RevisionGUID="44fd51f6-f36b-45a3-af73-9ebcb18fc833" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:52:56.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1508" RevisionGUID="78ab7740-fbcd-430f-8662-e3b480e4424c" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:52:56.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1509" RevisionGUID="893df245-8087-4b38-b26a-befd4abe50bd" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:55:31.197" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1510" RevisionGUID="661c9fb3-dc04-4dd0-9033-18ea5d75a22b" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:55:31.197" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="424" RevisionGUID="b281b4dc-bf12-4008-a161-ecd3a3e3d8b4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:56:54.423" UserId="57" Comment="removed DVD tag" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;dvd-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="435" RevisionGUID="74479a74-f264-4c1c-90c7-e3abb35e3072" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:57:16.193" UserId="57" Comment="removed DVD tag, added DVD-player tag" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;&lt;dvd-player&gt;&lt;set-top-box&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1511" RevisionGUID="77272924-e5b6-4e8c-a727-597a750f2eb0" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:58:39.647" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1512" RevisionGUID="3ee3b33e-afa5-44a9-a2ea-d1f1497c22e5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:58:39.647" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1463" RevisionGUID="5b7214de-07dc-40da-b904-6ae1c080ad3b" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:06:14.650" UserId="248" Comment="13" />
  <row Id="5433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1508" RevisionGUID="9be1c6b6-c22b-422c-b9d6-5be0bce1179d" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:08:47.923" UserId="57" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="Utilize this tag for devices that will capture video from another device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1508" RevisionGUID="9be1c6b6-c22b-422c-b9d6-5be0bce1179d" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:08:47.923" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by -1 edit id of 326" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1508" RevisionGUID="461070ab-ef02-478f-b60e-912355446dae" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:08:47.923" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="For questions about devices that will capture video from another device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1510" RevisionGUID="43b5ca45-c178-4a43-8322-1f74bdfa9586" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:10:05.607" UserId="57" Comment="added 83 characters in body" Text="Utilize this tag for questions asking about the Display Port interface on monitors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1510" RevisionGUID="43b5ca45-c178-4a43-8322-1f74bdfa9586" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:10:05.607" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by -1 edit id of 327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1510" RevisionGUID="1234ffb7-2e6d-428a-9eea-298a4eaa5604" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:10:05.607" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="For questions about the DisplayPort video interface on monitors and video cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1512" RevisionGUID="ab95bfc1-2425-40e7-82f6-bb398ce79a78" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:10:54.790" UserId="57" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices relating to DVD playback devicess. This is a broad tag; consider also using a more specific tag. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1512" RevisionGUID="ab95bfc1-2425-40e7-82f6-bb398ce79a78" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:10:54.790" Comment="Proposed by 57 approved by 155 edit id of 328" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1504" RevisionGUID="ed5776a9-ee1c-425c-b3c0-d1646eeae05a" CreationDate="2015-12-10T16:09:35.987" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5445" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1513" RevisionGUID="9e396278-cadd-4201-aff6-ed5528505b1c" CreationDate="2015-12-10T16:44:53.310" UserId="1217" Text="I am looking to get some hardware that I can setup as an intercepting proxy, to analyze network traffic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The traffic would flow between a single PC and the internet and the total amount of traffic would be quite small (less than 4GB/day).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this would be a proxy it does not need to have a screen or a keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some features for the hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cost less than $300.&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with software to log / trace connections (or ability to install e.g. Wireshark).&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to export the trace files when needed.&#xD;&#xA; - [Prefer but not a must] Able to function as a WiFi router.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1513" RevisionGUID="9e396278-cadd-4201-aff6-ed5528505b1c" CreationDate="2015-12-10T16:44:53.310" UserId="1217" Text="Recommendation for hardware to function as intercepting proxy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1513" RevisionGUID="9e396278-cadd-4201-aff6-ed5528505b1c" CreationDate="2015-12-10T16:44:53.310" UserId="1217" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="02cec75c-3509-424e-a139-8916b5ae0809" CreationDate="2015-12-10T22:17:38.113" UserId="1219" Text="I currently don't have a tv, as I think they are quite ugly and they take up a lot of room.I like the idea of packing away the screen so it is not always there in plain site. However I still like to watch films, so I often just watch films on my laptop. I do have an old projector, which I bought to watch films with. However I found the fan too loud, and I found it annoying having to set it up, have a power cable crossing the room and another cable to my laptop which would be in another location and then yet another cable to the hifi. It took a while to turn on and then to turn off which was also annoying.&#xD;&#xA;Recently I have come across two devices, that have the potential to solve some of these problems at a not to expensive price.&#xD;&#xA;Product one. Is the ZTE spro2, (http://www.androidauthority.com/zte-spro-2-review-602653/) this is primarily a projector but has a battery and android built in. It has 200 lumens and a high res screen. But when on battery it will only run at 100 lumens. It is difficult to source in the UK and I would have to buy it on ebay as an import. If it does not work as I expect, it will be hassle to return.&#xD;&#xA;The second device is the yoga tab3,(http://www.androidauthority.com/lenovo-yoga-tab-3-pro-review-658663/) this is primarily a tablet but has a built in projector. It has a 50 lumens 480p resolution projector. But the battery life is much better. I could probably watch 2 films on one charge. The main advantage is, that its an ok tablet as well, which I might end up using a fair bit, although its not something I really need or want (i wouldnt just buy an ipad for example). I can source this easily through amazon uk.&#xD;&#xA;So to sum up I am looking for a device for occasional film watching that is nice and clean and which can be packed away when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;My living room is quite bright, so I think for both devices it would work better in the winter.. but has anyone had any experience comparing the brightness of the devices in real life? What do people think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="02cec75c-3509-424e-a139-8916b5ae0809" CreationDate="2015-12-10T22:17:38.113" UserId="1219" Text="What do people think is better the zte spro2 or yoga tab3 pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="02cec75c-3509-424e-a139-8916b5ae0809" CreationDate="2015-12-10T22:17:38.113" UserId="1219" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="7e15c794-f2eb-45d7-9b5f-4ac7852ca923" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:00:33.083" UserId="203" Comment="Improved formatting, added paragraphs." Text="I don't have a TV because I think they are ugly and require too much space. I like the idea of packing away the screen so it's not always there, in plain sight. However I still like to watch films, so I often just watch films on my laptop. I have an old projector, which I bought to watch films with. However I found the fan too loud, and I found it annoying to set up, Requiring many cables to power the projector, my laptop and the HiFi system. It takes a long time to turn on and then to turn off which was also annoying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently I have come across two devices, that have the potential to solve some of these problems and are not too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The [ZTE SPro2](http://www.androidauthority.com/zte-spro-2-review-602653/) is primarily a projector but has a battery and android built in. It has 200 lumens and a high res screen, but when on battery it will only run at 100 lumens. It is difficult to source in the UK and I would have to buy it on ebay as an import. If it does not work as I expect, it will be hassle to return.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The [Yoga tab 3](http://www.androidauthority.com/lenovo-yoga-tab-3-pro-review-658663/) this is primarily a tablet but has a built in projector. The projector is only 50 lumens and 480p resolution projector, but the battery life is much better. I could probably watch 2 films on one charge. The main advantage is, that it's an ok tablet as well, which I might end up using a fair bit, although it's not something I really need or want (I wouldn't just buy an ipad for example). I can source this easily through amazon uk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to sum up I am looking for a device for occasional film watching that is nice and clean and which can be packed away when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My living room is quite bright, so I think for both devices it would work better in the winter. Has anyone had any experience comparing the brightness of the devices in real life? What do people think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="7e15c794-f2eb-45d7-9b5f-4ac7852ca923" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:00:33.083" UserId="203" Comment="Improved formatting, added paragraphs." Text="Tablet for movie watching: ZTE SPro2 or Yoga tab 3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="7e15c794-f2eb-45d7-9b5f-4ac7852ca923" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:00:33.083" Comment="Proposed by 203 approved by 1219 edit id of 329" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1514" RevisionGUID="021c3d22-a557-470f-845f-b5489870fdd7" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:16:58.767" UserId="1219" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I don't have a TV because I think they are ugly and require too much space. I like the idea of packing away the screen so it's not always there, in plain sight. However I still like to watch films, so I often just watch films on my laptop. I have an old projector, which I bought to watch films with. However I found the fan too loud, and I found it annoying to set up, Requiring many cables to power the projector, my laptop and the HiFi system. It takes a long time to turn on and then to turn off which was also annoying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently I have come across two devices, that have the potential to solve some of these problems and are not too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The [ZTE SPro2](http://www.androidauthority.com/zte-spro-2-review-602653/) is primarily a projector but has a battery and android built in. It has 200 lumens and a high res screen, but when on battery it will only run at 100 lumens. It is difficult to source in the UK and I would have to buy it on ebay as an import. If it does not work as I expect, it will be hassle to return.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The [Yoga tab 3 Pro](http://www.androidauthority.com/lenovo-yoga-tab-3-pro-review-658663/) this is primarily a tablet but has a built in projector. The projector is only 50 lumens and 480p resolution projector, but the battery life is much better. I could probably watch 2 films on one charge. The main advantage is, that it's an ok tablet as well, which I might end up using a fair bit, although it's not something I really need or want (I wouldn't just buy an ipad for example). I can source this easily through amazon uk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to sum up I am looking for a device for occasional film watching that is nice and clean and which can be packed away when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My living room is quite bright, so I think for both devices it would work better in the winter. Has anyone had any experience comparing the brightness of the devices in real life? What do people think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1516" RevisionGUID="e2536a2f-9b37-46ff-9e80-f79a38bf88d2" CreationDate="2015-12-11T02:10:37.780" UserId="912" Text="The yoga tab 3's 480p screen would be a pain to watch on. A 480p screen at 10&quot; size is already terrible (80 ppi). The 480p screen would be ok for stuff like video conferencing or a presentation but would be very terrible for movies. The ZTE SPro 2 has a much better quality projector (720p). This will have the same pixel density as the yoga tab 3 when at 20&quot; (78 ppi). These projectors are pretty dim so you will need a darker environment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1517" RevisionGUID="15869792-b72a-4d2e-ba76-823f8a0df99f" CreationDate="2015-12-11T03:53:17.987" UserId="203" Text="The 840 EVO and 850 EVO are both consumer TLC SSDs by Samsung. The EVO series doesn't exactly have any differentiation, and the 850 EVO is not the higher end model, rather, it is the newer generation. The reason that the 840 EVO has risen in price is most likely because it's an retired series and therefore no longer manufactured in volume.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chief differences between the two SSDs are in the NAND and controller. The inclusion of 3D V-NAND improves performance and write endurance, while the downgrade of the controller to two cores would decrease it. The [overall effect in the wild][1] would appear to be a moderate increase in write and mixed IO speed, with a more minor increase in read speed and a minor decrease in deep queue read speed. Overall, read and random mixed IO would probably play the major role in normal desktop operation, You should get no advantages with the older 840 EVO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-840-Evo-500GB-vs-Samsung-850-Evo-500GB/m1519vs3477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1518" RevisionGUID="723c251d-0437-44af-977f-cdaf394c619e" CreationDate="2015-12-11T08:17:48.707" UserId="203" Text="I'm having trouble finding an official [Ubuntu Certified](http://www.ubuntu.com/certification/) or Shipped-with-linux computers with shipping to Germany, so I'm going to reccomend the Lenovo Y50-70.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Lenovo Y50-70 [(Amazon.de)][1] !!B+ (86%)##&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2 potential problems (marked by (~))** Score calculated by number of (+) divided by total possible (+)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Germany, via Amazon.de with free shipping **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Is not Ubuntu certified, but there [have][2] been [multiple][3] people who have [successfully][4] installed [linux][5] on the Y50-70, though exact hardware configurations may vary (Most models used were using the 860M) and the installation was not always without trouble. **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - The DOS/256 GB SSD version linked is €949.00 **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - It has 8GB of DDR3 SDRAM, potentially upgradable to 16GB in the future **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Weight is 2.4 kg **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Battery is claimed to last 5 hours. This is probably under Windows, so you may need a battery efficent distro and try to limit display brightness and CPU/GPU voltage **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - Model has a 15.6&quot; 1080p IPS display **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, 1 USB 2.0 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Intel WiFi cards (Wireless-AC 3160) are generally supported **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - [The fans shut off at low load][6] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**10/12** The above section accounts for 60% of the total score&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The GTX 960M has a VGA port **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is fairly standard for a gaming notebook this size **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - The keyboard is a standard QWERTY layout **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - 4 in 1 card reader **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD **(5)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**18/20** The above each has a maximum score out of 5&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apparently, it does have a LAN slot][7] **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - There might be an external DVD drive for driver installation, but I wouldn't count on it. No internal ODD **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - The 1080p version has a matte display **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 960M. Mid range, quite speedy, but not a workstation card. 4 GB VRAM and 80 GB/s, competitive with a Quadro M2000M **(2)**&#xD;&#xA; - Not light enough **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - [Someone has reviewed a older version using linux, but it's a rather small addendum][3] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**9/18** The above each has a maximum score out of 3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, no USB 3.1 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1/2**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Partially Aluminum **(0.5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Red backlit keyboard **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Webcam and microphone built in **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3.5/4** Total for section 2: **31.5/35 (90%)**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U1PP3FQ/ref=twister_B00YXZU29M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=239&amp;t=202980&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/lenovo-ideapad-y50-review.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/y50-linux-thread.756405/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://superuser.com/questions/873056/linux-mint-17-1-lenovo-y50-70-installing-getting-gtx860m-to-work-with-nvidia-dr&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-GTX-960M-FHD-Notebook-Review.145896.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://laptopmedia.com/review/lenovo-y50-gtx-960m-review-the-slimmed-down-powerhouse-got-even-better/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="cc7c2774-dd9e-49f2-a732-16790ac3c384" CreationDate="2015-12-11T08:51:59.020" UserId="1207" Comment="edited body" Text="I want to build a home-made multi-room home sound system. &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a single board computer device with a minimal hardware configuration. In my thoughts my only requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* wifi connection&#xD;&#xA;* audio output&#xD;&#xA;* push button to config wireless network through wps&#xD;&#xA;* a led to show current network status&#xD;&#xA;* optionally an rj45 connection for development through ssh&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually no video output is required, nor additional usb ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What could be the cheapest solution for my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1518" RevisionGUID="b716c4a7-2a39-4095-84c2-866b30d9b924" CreationDate="2015-12-11T09:26:57.437" UserId="203" Comment="Corrected a very big mistake in addition" Text="I'm having trouble finding an official [Ubuntu Certified](http://www.ubuntu.com/certification/) or Shipped-with-linux computers with shipping to Germany, so I'm going to reccomend the Lenovo Y50-70.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Lenovo Y50-70 [(Amazon.de)][1] !!C- (52.6%)##&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2 potential problems (marked by (~))** Score calculated by number of (+) divided by total possible (+)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Germany, via Amazon.de with free shipping **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Is not Ubuntu certified, but there [have][2] been [multiple][3] people who have [successfully][4] installed [linux][5] on the Y50-70, though exact hardware configurations may vary (Most models used were using the 860M) and the installation was not always without trouble. **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - The DOS/256 GB SSD version linked is €949.00 **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - It has 8GB of DDR3 SDRAM, potentially upgradable to 16GB in the future **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Weight is 2.4 kg **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Battery is claimed to last 5 hours. This is probably under Windows, so you may need a battery efficent distro and try to limit display brightness and CPU/GPU voltage **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - Model has a 15.6&quot; 1080p IPS display **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, 1 USB 2.0 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Intel WiFi cards (Wireless-AC 3160) are generally supported **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - [The fans shut off at low load][6] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**10/12** The above section accounts for 60% of the total score&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The GTX 960M has a VGA port **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is fairly standard for a gaming notebook this size **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - The keyboard is a standard QWERTY layout **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - 4 in 1 card reader **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD **(5)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**18/25** The above each has a maximum score out of 5&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apparently, it does have a LAN slot][7] **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - There might be an external DVD drive for driver installation, but I wouldn't count on it. No internal ODD **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - The 1080p version has a matte display **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 960M. Mid range, quite speedy, but not a workstation card. 4 GB VRAM and 80 GB/s, competitive with a Quadro M2000M **(2)**&#xD;&#xA; - Not light enough **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - [Someone has reviewed a older version using linux, but it's a rather small addendum][3] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**9/18** The above each has a maximum score out of 3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, no USB 3.1 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1/2**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Partially Aluminum **(0.5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Red backlit keyboard **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Webcam and microphone built in **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3.5/4** Total for section 2: **31.5/49 (64%)**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U1PP3FQ/ref=twister_B00YXZU29M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=239&amp;t=202980&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/lenovo-ideapad-y50-review.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/y50-linux-thread.756405/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://superuser.com/questions/873056/linux-mint-17-1-lenovo-y50-70-installing-getting-gtx860m-to-work-with-nvidia-dr&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-GTX-960M-FHD-Notebook-Review.145896.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://laptopmedia.com/review/lenovo-y50-gtx-960m-review-the-slimmed-down-powerhouse-got-even-better/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1519" RevisionGUID="a3c93ab5-73ad-48c9-a900-33d341c0e2d7" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:14:23.003" UserId="1221" Text="Yes, OWC does in fact make such Blu-ray drives for Macs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just want read (not write) support for Blu-ray disks, there’s the [**OWC Slim 6X Portable USB 2.0 Blu-ray Reader**](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRSSBDL6X/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want both read and write support for Blu-ray disks, there’s the [**OWC Slim 6X Portable USB 2.0 Blu-ray Burner**](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRSSBDR6X/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind they use a USB 'Y'-type cable, so you’ll need two available USB ports if you want to power the drives without a separate power adapter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1520" RevisionGUID="7845b382-7a1c-4c3f-a711-bf3e794f4929" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:35:42.423" UserId="1225" Text="# Apple MacBook Pro 13-inch with Retina display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Positive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Germany&#xD;&#xA; - Works with OS X and Linux&#xD;&#xA; - 1649€ with the specs you want&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD (really fast: over 1.5 GB/s read and write)&#xD;&#xA; - 1.58 kg&#xD;&#xA; - 10 hours of web surfing&#xD;&#xA; - 2560x1600 display&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3-inch screen&#xD;&#xA; - Wi-Fi ac (over 1.3 Gbit/s; I have tested it myself)&#xD;&#xA; - Silent under normal workload&#xD;&#xA; - D-SUB/VGA (via Thunderbolt adapter)&#xD;&#xA; - Good keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - German keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - SD card reader&#xD;&#xA; - RJ45 (via Thunderbolt adapter)&#xD;&#xA; - Anti-reflective display&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Aluminium case&#xD;&#xA; - Webcam / microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth 4.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Negative:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only 2 USB ports (extendable via Thunderbolt; never was an issue for me)&#xD;&#xA; - No DVD/Blu-ray player (never needed one)&#xD;&#xA; - No Matte display (anti-reflective)&#xD;&#xA; - No NVIDIA GPU&#xD;&#xA; - No numpad&#xD;&#xA; - No USB 3.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think there will be any special pricing in the near future. But go to a Media Markt, Saturn, e.g. or look at notebooksbilliger.de or similar for special pricing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any questions: I am german and own this Notebook (Late 2013). Feel free to ask any questions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1521" RevisionGUID="d9b99321-d5b5-4bff-bb00-e966ba634750" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:51:29.577" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the SAMSUNG USB 2.0 Slim Portable Blu-ray Writer [($70 + $2 shipping at newegg.com)][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a single port model, which means that you won't have any trouble with compatibility. Unfortunately, it only supports USB 2.0 (High Speed), so if you were burning a movie, it could take a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151272&amp;cm_re=external_blu_ray_drive-_-27-151-272-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="7c5677c4-9515-4233-8d70-ec09980ff1ef" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:35:43.853" UserId="1221" Text="A lot of Chinese tablets (and probably some others as well) use a [barrel connector](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector) instead of microUSB to charge. They all [seem to use](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector#Listing_of_DC_coaxial_connectors) the standard size of 2.5 mm OD (outside diameter) and 0.8 mm ID (inside diameter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just bought a used Chinese tablet (a [Pipo P1](http://www.dx.com/p/337585) to be exact) whose previous owner says the battery no longer charges when plugged in. After reading [this](http://www.righto.com/2014/05/a-look-inside-ipad-chargers-pricey.html) and [this](http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html), and finding out how much noise is output by cheap Chinese chargers, I’m looking to buy a charger with some actual quality behind it so I don’t destroy the tablet even more (I’m somewhat confident the issue of the battery not charging anymore was caused by the power adapter it came with… in fact, I already experienced something similar myself when I used a cheap Chinese power adapter to charge a laptop for a few months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures of the port on the tablet as well as the power adapter it came with showing its specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A cropped image showing the label on the power adapter that came with the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![Power Supply’s Label](http://f.cl.ly/items/3o1D1U2q293Y1x3Z3f2y/power%20supply%20label.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The contents of the label transcribed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;型号：KZ0902500C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输入：100－240V〜50／60Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;　　　0.5AMAX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输出：9V ⎓ 2500mA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*where 型号 = Model, 输入 = Input, and 输出 = Output*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(The character between '9V' and '2500mA' is [U+2393 DIRECT CURRENT SYMBOL FORM TWO](http://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2393/index.htm). If you can’t see it, it means you don’t have a font installed containing a glyph for that codepoint. If that’s the case, I recommend installing a font like [Everson Mono](http://www.evertype.com/emono/), [STIXGeneral](http://stixfonts.org), or [Symbola](http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/), which does contain a glyph for it).*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An image showing the DC 9V port on the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![DC 9V Port on Tablet](http://f.cl.ly/items/3S3H032k1A1X3Y3L1n3B/DC%209V%20port.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And [here’s](http://f.cl.ly/items/2W2P2n3L0W2i1w3H0D1w/pipo%20p1%20power%20supply.png) an image showing the entire power adapter (might not want to click on that link though… it’s an uncropped 20 MB picture of the power adapter that came with the tablet that I only bothered uploading since you can also see the barrel connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I thought I could just use one of the genuine Apple 12 W USB Power Adapters that I already own, by buying a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like [this](http://www.dx.com/p/217276) one. But then I realized there might be a few issues with going that route. The first issue would be that I would have no idea what [AWG](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/39066/usb-cables-why-are-some-of-them-bad-for-raspberry-pi) the cable would be (buyers of that product have said that the cable they received didn’t have the same AWG as the one shown in the picture). In addition to that, the specs of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter I have will pose a problem with using it to charge the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Input: 100-240 V〜 0.5 A  50-60 Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Output: 5.2 V ⎓ 2.4 A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the output voltage of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter is only 5.2 V, while the voltage the tablet requires is 9 V. From what I’ve read, supplying an incorrect voltage is [a *very* bad idea](http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings). The current supplied by the Apple adapter is also less than the current supplied by the adapter that came with the tablet (2.4 A vs. 2.5 A). Of course, the tablet might not actually draw an entire 2.5 A, but since I don’t know how much it draws for sure, it’s probably better to be safe than sorry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can buy a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like the one I linked to (despite not specifying the AWG of the cable, it seems like others have gotten it to charge their tablets fine, so it may be good enough), which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a USB power adapter that supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy a power adapter that already has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end, which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a power adapter that has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end of the cord and supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #1, I’ve searched around quite a bit, but the closest I could find were these USB power adapters from Anker: the [A2130111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2130111), [A2010111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2010111), and [A2132121](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2132121), but they only provide an output voltage of 9 V with an output current of 2 A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #2, I’ve searched extensively on that front as well, but have still come up short. Places like [Farnell](http://www.farnell.com/) and [Digi-Key](http://www.digikey.com/) don’t seem to have anything matching those requirements. The best I was able to find was [S-9V0-2A5-U30](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/detail.php?ID=365) from Condor Electronics. It seems perfect; they even let you configure the type of [barrel connector](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/table.php?subcat=30) for them to put on it! That’s where the issue lies though, as the closest thing they have to one with an OD of 2.5 mm and an ID of 0.8 mm are their two EIAJ-1 barrel connectors ([one](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725.pdf) with OD of 2.35 and ID of 0.7 and the [other](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725-HP.pdf) with OD of 2.45±0.05 and ID of 0.7), which might be good enough size-wise, except that the rated voltage and current of an EIAJ-01 connector is [too low](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector) (0–3.15 V and 2 A). Of course, that’s also ignoring that the only reason Condor Electronics even lets you customize the barrel connector on the adapter at all is because you have to buy 100 pcs. at a time…" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="7c5677c4-9515-4233-8d70-ec09980ff1ef" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:35:43.853" UserId="1221" Text="Non-generic power adapters with barrel connectors with 2.5 mm OD and 0.8 mm ID for Chinese tablets?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="7c5677c4-9515-4233-8d70-ec09980ff1ef" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:35:43.853" UserId="1221" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1525" RevisionGUID="c8b26b9a-5ca6-4c87-94d3-8fbb5e0afa47" CreationDate="2015-12-11T14:05:22.017" UserId="1226" Text="Some time ago I've successfully installed Linux (ROSA R3) on the similar Acer ICONIA Tab W500: http://linux-hardware.org/index.php?computer=4c-72-b9-1a-26-df&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently there are Linux installations on 3 different ICONIA Tab W500, W501, W501P and W700 in the database. And there are no any information for other tablets you listed. So I can recommend you the Acer tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However please don't expect that all Linux applications will support touchscreen interface. Most of the time you will work with your Linux tablet as a traditional laptop via the keyboard and mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1526" RevisionGUID="b92013b7-885a-484b-a4f1-86cc22be5585" CreationDate="2015-12-11T14:38:40.983" UserId="1226" Text="T100TA and X205TA are both of Bay Trail-T architecture, that is not properly supported by Linux yet. Actually they are not laptops, they are tablets. You'd better to look at Asus VivoBook X202E, HP Pavilion TouchSmart 11z or Asus Q200 which are traditional laptops. Also you can dual-boot almost any chrome-book with your Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please check your final choice against this database of Linux-supported computers: http://linux-hardware.org/index.php?view=computers&amp;type=notebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found Linux report for ASUS X202EP in the database (http://linux-hardware.org/index.php?computer=50-46-5d-37-41-c1) and some HP touchsmart models (tm2, tx2)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1525" RevisionGUID="62fcb1ca-1816-4f6e-8e9b-e1a5b13d68b6" CreationDate="2015-12-11T16:38:09.967" UserId="313" Comment="Added hyperlink" Text="Some time ago I've successfully installed Linux (ROSA R3) on the similar [Acer ICONIA Tab W500][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently there are Linux installations on 3 different ICONIA Tab W500, W501, W501P and W700 in the database. And there are no any information for other tablets you listed. So I can recommend you the Acer tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However please don't expect that all Linux applications will support touchscreen interface. Most of the time you will work with your Linux tablet as a traditional laptop via the keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://linux-hardware.org/index.php?computer=4c-72-b9-1a-26-df" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1525" RevisionGUID="62fcb1ca-1816-4f6e-8e9b-e1a5b13d68b6" CreationDate="2015-12-11T16:38:09.967" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 1 edit id of 330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1527" RevisionGUID="3c07cc0b-7b8f-4d53-bad7-57f5762fdecf" CreationDate="2015-12-11T21:17:36.883" UserId="1225" Text="I would suggest the **[Denon AC-GC20][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [About **300€** in Germany][2]&#xD;&#xA; - **Over-Ear**&#xD;&#xA; - **Detachable cable**&#xD;&#xA; - **Bluetooth Smart**&#xD;&#xA; - Supports modern codecs&#xD;&#xA; - [aptX Low Latency][3] (High quality audio over Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA; - Active noise canceling (can be turned off)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual mode (connect two devices at the same time)&#xD;&#xA; - Very good sound quality and frequency response&#xD;&#xA; - 20h playback time (Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA; - usable with dead battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend these headphones to everyone who asks my for recommendations for headphones in general. I was searching for Bluetooth headphones myself and they are the only ones that feature everything I could ask for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://usa.denon.com/us/product/bluetooth/sportsheadphones/ahgc20&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://geizhals.de/denon-ah-gc20-a1152016.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.aptx.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1472" RevisionGUID="c218244e-be42-4722-ba4f-a9e9a17105b4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T23:59:48.813" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="fd3718da-3ccf-4b15-8c7b-fc843447d552" CreationDate="2015-12-12T06:20:57.677" UserId="527" Text="I bought several inexpensive new 7&quot; and 10&quot; Android tablets from different manufacturers.  The screens on all of them are quite poor.  You have to look at them at just the right angle to get a reasonably good image.  Straight-on viewing is no good, nor is anything at more than a 20 degree angle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I even wrote [this SuperUser question][1] asking about what has changed in LED screen manufacturing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend inexpensive 7&quot; - 11&quot; Android tablets that have good quality screens?  By &quot;good quality screen&quot;, I mean something that when viewed straight-on looks perfect, and is usable at a minimum of 30 degrees in all 4 directions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a requirement of the screen technology (IPS, etc.).  Although more pixels is better, I prefer image quality over pixel density.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Android version must be KitKat or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like as low of a price as possible, but am not going to set a price requirement because I don't know the starting price point for a tablet with a good screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/1012398/why-is-straight-on-viewing-of-inexpensive-lcd-screens-no-longer-the-best-angle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="fd3718da-3ccf-4b15-8c7b-fc843447d552" CreationDate="2015-12-12T06:20:57.677" UserId="527" Text="Low cost tablets with high quality screens" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="fd3718da-3ccf-4b15-8c7b-fc843447d552" CreationDate="2015-12-12T06:20:57.677" UserId="527" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1530" RevisionGUID="d1719310-0c29-4982-bd44-4894a44124fd" CreationDate="2015-12-12T09:47:28.250" UserId="241" Text="I'll recommend the [16GB Nexus 7 (2013 model)][1] at $130 from Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It runs any version of Android; I believe current versions are shipping with Lollipop and can easily be upgraded to Marshmallow.&#xD;&#xA;* It's got a 320 dpi IPS screen.  Colors start darkening at about 30 degrees off-axis in all four directions (measured using the tablet's orientation sensor) and the screen remains readable up to about 70 degrees off-axis.  I did not notice a color shift at any angle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nexus_7_(2013)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1531" RevisionGUID="8ac72d98-21e1-4360-8acf-2d9156532a29" CreationDate="2015-12-12T10:00:42.267" UserId="1233" Text="I would like to buy a product like Wacom's [Inkling][1] or [Bamboo Spark][2]. But I don't know if they support real-time image projection to a projector. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I only want to **write on paper** and at the same time project my drawing in real time to my students... Any idea on how to achieve that with above products or any other product which support this? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to invest around 300€. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://inkling.wacom.eu/?/en/what_is_inkling/in_three_steps&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wacom.com/en-us/products/mobile-accessories/bamboo-spark" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1531" RevisionGUID="8ac72d98-21e1-4360-8acf-2d9156532a29" CreationDate="2015-12-12T10:00:42.267" UserId="1233" Text="Wacom - Bamboo Inkling, Spark... projecting image over HDMI or VGA on projector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1531" RevisionGUID="8ac72d98-21e1-4360-8acf-2d9156532a29" CreationDate="2015-12-12T10:00:42.267" UserId="1233" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1534" RevisionGUID="0e5a59e0-ecc7-4573-9b5f-61dd021c3955" CreationDate="2015-12-12T20:54:54.453" UserId="77" Text="I wanted to get up and running fast with an embedded Linux processor evaluation that is cheap by capable of processing video. &#xA;&#xA;I used at91sam9 before so something newer but equivalent with got video might be good.&#xA;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1534" RevisionGUID="0e5a59e0-ecc7-4573-9b5f-61dd021c3955" CreationDate="2015-12-12T20:54:54.453" UserId="77" Text="Best embedded Linux mid range processor with video capability" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1534" RevisionGUID="0e5a59e0-ecc7-4573-9b5f-61dd021c3955" CreationDate="2015-12-12T20:54:54.453" UserId="77" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1534" RevisionGUID="582bd751-89fc-45f5-ae66-0e0cc3a08419" CreationDate="2015-12-12T21:29:47.380" UserId="77" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body; added 76 characters in body" Text="I want to get up and running fast with an embedded Linux processor evaluation that is cheap by capable of processing video. &#xA;&#xA;I used at91sam9 before so something newer but equivalent with good video capability might be good.&#xA;&#xA;Also, easy instructions to build using yocto would be helpful.&#xA;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1534" RevisionGUID="8b7650d9-8cb8-4ae3-abbc-04f7d826623c" CreationDate="2015-12-12T22:57:17.503" UserId="77" Comment="added 184 characters in body" Text="I want to get up and running fast with an embedded Linux processor eval board that is cheap but capable of processing video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**edit:** By processing video, I mean it should be able to take a 720p stream from a camera, insert an overlay on it for display and save the data without overlay to sd card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used at91sam9 before so something newer but equivalent with good video capability might be good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, easy instructions to build using yocto would be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1436" RevisionGUID="603d658c-353b-4b69-95ce-e21bcf26f8bd" CreationDate="2015-12-13T11:34:13.123" UserId="425" Comment="updated requirements" Text="The latest Apple notebooks do not have any built-in DVD drive, and Apple only sells a DVD drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any external drive which is similar to the external SuperDrive for the MacBook Pro, but is able to read (and possibly write too) Blu-ray discs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found several Blu-ray drives, but they do not look so &quot;portable&quot; as you need a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if it would be possible to have a drive like the Apple External SuperDrive DVD which is powered just by a USB cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I found few drives in USB 2.0 (like the answerers), but I would prefer to have USB3 or Thunderbolt interface. I am surprised there is not such devices with a faster interface than USB 2.0. I found only the `Asus BW-16D1H-U PRO` but it needs an external power adapter (and 1kg could not be considered so portable)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1536" RevisionGUID="4da67cb9-4ddd-4cae-80b2-2e75f928f533" CreationDate="2015-12-14T00:05:18.357" UserId="1241" Text="The Asus Xtion Pro Live is a decent kinect-like sensor, can be powered via usb and is considerably smaller -especially since there is way less cable mess- it is 500$ on amazon. The range is only 3.5 meters however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Xtion-PRO-LIVE-90IW0122-B01UA/dp/B00CET0ZBO&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/3D-Sensor/Xtion_PRO_LIVE/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I worked with the sensor in an &quot;object recognition&quot; project and had no problems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1537" RevisionGUID="db3391ca-c4b8-4ebd-8338-97970aef471f" CreationDate="2015-12-14T00:13:03.120" UserId="1241" Text="Red Bear labs has quite a few options. I have used the Blend micro and didn't encounter any problems. I am fairly certain you can change the name too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://redbearlab.com/blendmicro/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have smaller/larger models" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1539" RevisionGUID="7191fb09-ef0a-4f7b-89db-0118cd6c1a55" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:33:50.387" UserId="1243" Text="I’ve been asked to install a new monitor in an EMS (Ambulance) station. The monitor is by the garage doors, and needs to mirror another monitor connected to a computer on the other side of the garage. This is a volunteer EMS group, so the budget is limited. I’d rather not buy a new graphics card, but it’s not out of the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We’ve measured the cable run at roughly 55ft (17m).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor we need to mirror is connected by DVI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There’s a second monitor also connected via VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer has no third monitor port; it has just 1 VGA port and 1 DVI-D port. It’s a cheapish old Dell. The sole use for the computer is showing currently active calls, and the people who’ve paged in to take them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What’s the best solution to setup display mirroring on the new monitor? No kb/mouse is required at that distance. This is view only. To be clear, the monitor is already mounted. Just need to know the best way to get the signal to it, given the constraints I have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve taken a look at kits: I can get either DVI or VGA splitters, and 20M cables for both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these options decent, or would I need a powered splitter? Bear in mind, that’s $10 vs $150 it seems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is preferable over longer lengths? VGA or DVI?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1539" RevisionGUID="7191fb09-ef0a-4f7b-89db-0118cd6c1a55" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:33:50.387" UserId="1243" Text="Long distance monitor connection options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1539" RevisionGUID="7191fb09-ef0a-4f7b-89db-0118cd6c1a55" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:33:50.387" UserId="1243" Text="&lt;dvi&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1540" RevisionGUID="71a02268-976e-41d8-9b89-4bff0e39125a" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:36:44.463" UserId="1184" Text="I would recommend the [Amazon Fire 10&quot; Wi-Fi 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/Fire-HD-10-1-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00VKIY9RG) which starts at $179.99 but you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Fire Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This features an HD display of 1280x800 and quoting from the Amazon website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fire HD 10 features a widescreen 1280 x 800 high definition display with over a million pixels (149 ppi) for a bright, vivid picture. Enjoy a great viewing experience with wide viewing angles, less glare, blacker blacks and more brightness thanks to a fully laminated IPS (in-plane switching) LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say the screen quality is great, the reviews praise it for having great screen quality&lt;sup&gt;[1][2]&lt;/sup&gt; and for having a low price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HUUun.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R3UZGVXM3XMBZL/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00VKIY9RG&amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;nodeID=370783011&amp;store=amazon-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1540" RevisionGUID="709d5562-ceea-4584-b93b-378178a58415" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:44:11.177" UserId="1184" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I would recommend the [Amazon Fire 10&quot; Wi-Fi 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/Fire-HD-10-1-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00VKIY9RG) which starts at **$179.99** but you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Fire Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This features an HD display of 1280x800 and quoting from the Amazon website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fire HD 10 features a widescreen 1280 x 800 high definition display with over a million pixels (149 ppi) for a bright, vivid picture. Enjoy a great viewing experience with wide viewing angles, less glare, blacker blacks and more brightness thanks to a fully laminated IPS (in-plane switching) LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say the screen quality is great, the reviews praise it for having great screen quality&lt;sup&gt;[1][2]&lt;/sup&gt; and for having a low price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HUUun.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R3UZGVXM3XMBZL/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00VKIY9RG&amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;nodeID=370783011&amp;store=amazon-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1541" RevisionGUID="c10f908a-9332-4aa5-80be-de0ba873e20e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:44:56.127" UserId="1244" Text="I suggest trying the longer length VGA cable if that is an affordable option. It's going to depend on what resolution and refresh rate you display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VGA is analog. The quality of your picture is going to depend on the quality of the cable you use and the electronics on your video card and monitor. With a decent quality cable of 20 meters, I would expect a good quality picture at 1024*768 resolution and 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reviews of this Monoprice 75-foot product &lt;http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3573&gt; would suggest that this is feasible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1540" RevisionGUID="41103b58-4aec-4425-a2bc-186c76fb5d2d" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:52:13.173" UserId="1184" Comment="added 294 characters in body" Text="I would recommend the [Amazon Fire 10&quot; Wi-Fi 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/Fire-HD-10-1-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00VKIY9RG) which starts at **$179.99** but you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Fire Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This features an HD display of 1280x800 and quoting from the Amazon website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fire HD 10 features a widescreen 1280 x 800 high definition display with over a million pixels (149 ppi) for a bright, vivid picture. Enjoy a great viewing experience with wide viewing angles, less glare, blacker blacks and more brightness thanks to a fully laminated IPS (in-plane switching) LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say the screen quality is great, the reviews praise it for having great screen quality&lt;sup&gt;[1][2]&lt;/sup&gt; and for having a low price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This](http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17482/how-can-i-install-vanilla-android-on-the-kindle-fire) StackExchange question on Android SE, describes how you can install Vanilla Android on a Fire tablet. This does require a root which you may do if you are comfortable with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HUUun.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R3UZGVXM3XMBZL/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00VKIY9RG&amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;nodeID=370783011&amp;store=amazon-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="4f87fbdc-e32a-4b92-ad98-d4a2500d0ef3" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:00:40.693" UserId="1184" Text="## Definitely DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [65ft CablesToGo](http://www.cablestogo.com/product/41236/65ft-pro-series-single-link-dvi-d-digital-video-cable-m-m-in-wall-cl2-rated)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="bf2564ba-86ae-4659-81d6-73dae610c45f" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:06:47.483" UserId="1184" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="## Definitely DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [65ft CablesToGo](http://www.cablestogo.com/product/41236/65ft-pro-series-single-link-dvi-d-digital-video-cable-m-m-in-wall-cl2-rated)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There many more, doing a google search for 65ft or 55ft DVI cable yells quite a few results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="4dd17445-5323-4e16-ba34-6ee04d3b0de2" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:40:59.043" UserId="1184" Comment="added 117 characters in body" Text="## Definitely DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely note that 55ft would require a rather very long cable. (~75ft). This means that cables can get expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These were found from a quick google search. You might want to look at more options and reviews for other cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [65ft CablesToGo](http://www.cablestogo.com/product/41236/65ft-pro-series-single-link-dvi-d-digital-video-cable-m-m-in-wall-cl2-rated)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There many more, doing a google search for 65ft or 55ft DVI cable yells quite a few results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1541" RevisionGUID="80976240-0516-4824-b115-0c8a5ba1b257" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:47:05.040" UserId="1184" Comment="inline link" Text="I suggest trying the longer length VGA cable if that is an affordable option. It's going to depend on what resolution and refresh rate you display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VGA is analog. The quality of your picture is going to depend on the quality of the cable you use and the electronics on your video card and monitor. With a decent quality cable of 20 meters, I would expect a good quality picture at 1024*768 resolution and 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reviews of this [Monoprice 75-foot product](http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3573) would suggest that this is feasible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1541" RevisionGUID="80976240-0516-4824-b115-0c8a5ba1b257" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:47:05.040" Comment="Proposed by 1184 approved by 1244 edit id of 331" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="5a18e2b2-a091-4890-b23c-e59763827aa2" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:47:29.960" UserId="1184" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="## Definitely DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely note that 55ft would require a rather very long cable. (~75ft). This means that cables can get **expensive quickly**, especially the higher you go in terms of quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These were found from a quick google search. You might want to look at more options and reviews for other cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [65ft CablesToGo](http://www.cablestogo.com/product/41236/65ft-pro-series-single-link-dvi-d-digital-video-cable-m-m-in-wall-cl2-rated)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Cmple (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Cable-Rated-Plated-75ft/dp/B004GXSSXS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There many more, doing a google search for 65ft or 55ft DVI cable yells quite a few results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="52ba1068-dc50-4691-bd20-aacad85a3452" CreationDate="2015-12-14T06:57:48.383" UserId="1184" Comment="added 148 characters in body" Text="## Definitely DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely note that 55ft would require a rather very long cable. (~75ft). This means that cables can get **expensive quickly**, especially the higher you go in terms of quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you choose to get an extender ([link to one such extender](http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-EXT-DVI-141DLBP-Booster-PLUS-Dual/dp/B000ZB2XUO)), you'll be able to use really any cable and get flawless video. If you're running CICS, then I wouldn't see any benefit to an extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These were found from a quick google search. You might want to look at more options and reviews for other cables. Shorter cables would be preferable but 75ft is the most common option above 50ft&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [65ft CablesToGo](http://www.cablestogo.com/product/41236/65ft-pro-series-single-link-dvi-d-digital-video-cable-m-m-in-wall-cl2-rated)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G)&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Cmple (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Cable-Rated-Plated-75ft/dp/B004GXSSXS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these seem to perform to the required resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There many more, doing a google search for 65ft or 55ft DVI cable yells quite a few results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1542" RevisionGUID="17de337c-08a2-49df-badc-37a324befd10" CreationDate="2015-12-14T07:07:13.500" UserId="1184" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="## DVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your budget isn't too tight (&lt; $40) then I would recommend DVI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for all cables, signal quality is dependent on the length of the cable. VGA cables are **much** more susceptible to degradation due to distance&lt;sup&gt;[1][1]&lt;/sup&gt; so I would **highly** recommend against VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While cable quality may play a role, VGA is very old-school and DVI is better than it in almost every way. Your result is also dependent on your resolution. At your range you're probably going to be able to run a 1,280 × 1,024 display, and you may need a booster the longer you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely note that 55ft would require a rather very long cable. (~75ft). This means that cables can get **expensive quickly**, especially the higher you go in terms of quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you choose to get an extender ([link to one such extender](http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-EXT-DVI-141DLBP-Booster-PLUS-Dual/dp/B000ZB2XUO)), you'll be able to use really any cable and get flawless video. If you're running CICS, then I wouldn't see any benefit to an extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### A Few Links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These were found from a quick google search. You might want to look at more options and reviews for other cables. Shorter cables would be preferable but 75ft is the most common option above 50ft&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Tripp (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Digital-Monitor-P561-075/dp/B006Z90I1G) $76&#xD;&#xA; - [75ft Cmple (Amazon)](http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Cable-Rated-Plated-75ft/dp/B004GXSSXS) $57&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these seem to perform to the required resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There many more, doing a google search for 65ft or 55ft DVI cable yells quite a few results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://www.diffen.com/difference/DVI_vs_VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1541" RevisionGUID="d771223f-b720-424e-8011-a310ecf8fca2" CreationDate="2015-12-14T07:09:12.817" UserId="1244" Comment="Included information relating to the split signal" Text="Use an active-splitter with VGA cables. With a long length on one end, you will need active electronics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VGA is analog. The quality of your picture is going to depend on the quality of the cable you use and the electronics on your video card and monitor. With a decent quality cable of 20 meters, I would expect a good quality picture at 1024*768 resolution and 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a [splitter similar to this model](http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3569) and a cable similar to this [Monoprice 75-foot product](http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3573). The reviews on these products suggest this is feasible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="9abd56c2-ef4d-4fba-bc15-0ea411c31b5e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T09:51:03.683" UserId="1247" Text="I'm using a Gigabyte BRIX Mini PC running Linux as a Viewer for a NoMachine setup with 2 monitors presently, one connected via VGA and one via HDMI. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning on adding a third monitor, which is why I am looking for a small PC with three (ideally 4, as a spare) VGA/HDMI ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connecting a USB-VGA adapter like the products from Plugable (http://plugable.com/2014/03/06/displaylink-usb-2-0-graphics-adapters-on-linux-2014-edition) doesn't seem feasible to me with the lack of true support of these devices under Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody come across a Mini-PC with more than 2 video ports onboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks &amp; best regards!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="9abd56c2-ef4d-4fba-bc15-0ea411c31b5e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T09:51:03.683" UserId="1247" Text="Mini PC (e.g. Gigabyte BRIX) with more than 2 graphic ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="9abd56c2-ef4d-4fba-bc15-0ea411c31b5e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T09:51:03.683" UserId="1247" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="97930ea1-84e3-40f1-ae0e-55fbd8c1a9be" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:44:15.073" UserId="45" Comment="minor clarifications" Text="I'm using a Gigabyte BRIX Mini PC running Linux as a viewer for a NoMachine setup with 2 monitors presently, one connected via VGA and one via HDMI. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning on adding a third monitor, which is why I am looking for a small PC, similar to the BRIX, but with three (ideally 4, as a spare) VGA/HDMI ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connecting a USB-VGA adapter like the [products from Plugable](http://plugable.com/2014/03/06/displaylink-usb-2-0-graphics-adapters-on-linux-2014-edition) doesn't seem feasible to me with the lack of true support of these devices under Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody come across a Mini-PC with more than 2 video ports onboard?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="97930ea1-84e3-40f1-ae0e-55fbd8c1a9be" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:44:15.073" UserId="45" Comment="minor clarifications" Text="Mini PC (like Gigabyte BRIX) with 3 graphic ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="97930ea1-84e3-40f1-ae0e-55fbd8c1a9be" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:44:15.073" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by -1 edit id of 332" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1544" RevisionGUID="6ea59ba5-e143-4ca5-9fed-61c9ba865bf5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:44:15.073" UserId="8" Comment="minor clarifications" Text="Mini PC (like Gigabyte BRIX) with more than 2 graphic ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1545" RevisionGUID="3f7b4fda-fb45-45d2-af8d-4e932e7b1045" CreationDate="2015-12-14T12:29:52.697" UserId="1249" Text="HDMI extender&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind when you have 2 small boxes to be connected with pair of Ethernet-style cables. I'm using Unitek Y-5110 (I've paid about $30-$40), but this [one looks promising][1].&#xD;&#xA;I think this simple devices works by having an analog amplifier pump the signal into cheap cable and then normalize it at the other end - it doesn't really understand the protocol so it works with pretty much anything that can be crammed into HDMI cable. I've tested mine with pair of 25m patchcords and it worked flawlessly up to 1080p and also with DVI. In your case you can connect it via DVI-splitter to the DVI monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest advantage of this system is that all the expensive parts (the converters themselves) are concentrated in 2 small locations and can be put out of harm's way. The long cable is cheap and can be easily trimmed or replaced should a need arise. Also the transmission is fully digital (although I suspect analog amplification) so you get perfect quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend against long VGA, DVI or HDMI cable - simply because they are quite expensive and when they get damaged you have to replace entire length of it. The picture quality degradation of VGA cable is less of an issue, as I've witnessed surprisingly good quality out of about 15-20m cables used at conference rooms - although judging by the thickness they were probably quite expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As with all experiments, I advise you make the purchases as a consumer (that is, not as company or organization) so you can return it if you're not satisfied with results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018295-REG/tera_grand_hd_ve430_hdmi_extender.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1546" RevisionGUID="010fbba0-4bff-41b3-8547-449882f60c0e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T12:49:39.223" UserId="1249" Text="Anything with DisplayPort 1.2 or better, eg Intel NUC NUC6i5SYH or NUC6i3SYK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[DisplayPort daisy-chaining][1] allows for up to 5 monitors connected to a single DP socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.displayport.org/cables/driving-multiple-displays-from-a-single-displayport-output/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1545" RevisionGUID="a4dd5f71-4907-42d6-967b-784c4657ca4e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T13:11:52.477" UserId="1249" Comment="edited body" Text="HDMI extender&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind when you have 2 small boxes to be connected with pair of Ethernet-style cables. I'm using Unitek Y-5115 (I've paid about $30-$40), but this [one looks promising][1].&#xD;&#xA;I think this simple devices works by having an analog amplifier pump the signal into cheap cable and then normalize it at the other end - it doesn't really understand the protocol so it works with pretty much anything that can be crammed into HDMI cable. I've tested mine with pair of 25m patchcords and it worked flawlessly up to 1080p and also with DVI. In your case you can connect it via DVI-splitter to the DVI monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest advantage of this system is that all the expensive parts (the converters themselves) are concentrated in 2 small locations and can be put out of harm's way. The long cable is cheap and can be easily trimmed or replaced should a need arise. Also the transmission is fully digital (although I suspect analog amplification) so you get perfect quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend against long VGA, DVI or HDMI cable - simply because they are quite expensive and when they get damaged you have to replace entire length of it. The picture quality degradation of VGA cable is less of an issue, as I've witnessed surprisingly good quality out of about 15-20m cables used at conference rooms - although judging by the thickness they were probably quite expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As with all experiments, I advise you make the purchases as a consumer (that is, not as company or organization) so you can return it if you're not satisfied with results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018295-REG/tera_grand_hd_ve430_hdmi_extender.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1547" RevisionGUID="8864d37f-9a47-4c75-9722-acc1f81194c5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T13:24:52.500" UserId="1249" Text="I am using Unitek Y-5115 with 15m cables for 2 years now and it just works. I suspect that the 2*ethernet cable extenders simply use analog amplification of a digital signal (number of pairs in 2 ethernet cables &gt; number of pairs in HDMI cable), so even other format still pass (eg DVI, I've tried) and no loss of quality is possible (until eventually digital connection breaks down).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mind you that there are now extenders which use only 1 ethernet cable so they must work in a different way - I am NOT talking about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(BTW, the cable you mean is not really RJ45 and a real RJ45 plug wouldn't even fit the socket.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1548" RevisionGUID="5f93fbe6-18fa-4f9d-82b0-1f2a0dac97e7" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:15:55.747" UserId="30" Text="I need an e-book reader for reading books and documents while commuting by public transport.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The installed software (OS, firmware, everything) it ships with must be [free/libre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_software). No proprietary blobs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It must support opening [EPUB](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPUB) and [PDF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portable_Document_Format) files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The device should be lightweight enough not to get tired holding it for 1–2 hours.&#xD;&#xA;* It should have a long battery life (if reading 2 hours each day, it should last for more than 2 weeks).&#xD;&#xA;* Connecting via USB to upload/download e-books. Operating systems should ideally detect it as USB mass storage device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1548" RevisionGUID="5f93fbe6-18fa-4f9d-82b0-1f2a0dac97e7" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:15:55.747" UserId="30" Text="E-book reader running only free/libre software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1548" RevisionGUID="5f93fbe6-18fa-4f9d-82b0-1f2a0dac97e7" CreationDate="2015-12-14T18:15:55.747" UserId="30" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="91562783-6fe5-4aa2-9673-613b82e1f226" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:21:53.353" UserId="1219" Text="I am looking at the ZTE spro 2 projector (https://www.zteusa.com/media/wysiwyg/spro2-att/ZTE_Spro_2_AT_T_User_Manual_English_-_PDF_-_18.8MB_.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an android projector that can accept a Miracast broad cast from another device such as a mobile phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does there exist any av-receivers/hifis or other device that is not a pc, that can Miracast to this projector? I am thinking I could plug things like an xbox and sky into this device and then wirelessly cast this to the projector?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see some Miracast dongles, but they seem to work in the wrong direction for what I want.. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="91562783-6fe5-4aa2-9673-613b82e1f226" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:21:53.353" UserId="1219" Text="Av Receiver or other device that can Miracast to a projector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="91562783-6fe5-4aa2-9673-613b82e1f226" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:21:53.353" UserId="1219" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="82f1e72e-db57-4dd2-87d1-a85f387f115e" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:27:19.950" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I am looking at the [ZTE Spro 2 projector](https://www.zteusa.com/media/wysiwyg/spro2-att/ZTE_Spro_2_AT_T_User_Manual_English_-_PDF_-_18.8MB_.pdf).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an android projector that can accept a Miracast broadcast from another device such as a mobile phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any AV receivers/hi-fis or other device that is not a PC, that can Miracast to this projector? I am thinking I could plug things like an XBox and Sky into this device and then wirelessly cast this to the projector?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen some Miracast dongles, but they seem to work in the wrong direction for what I want." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1552" RevisionGUID="d7aaf24a-1109-4862-be9f-8df190fe7f89" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:11:37.457" UserId="821" Text="**Before you ask why I would spend around $800-850 dollars on a pc, it is just for a video. I'm not actually buying the parts.** (Though I wish I could build it; as I never got to before)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm making guides on buying PC parts; and presets on different budgets. Keep in mind that items like monitors, mice, keyboards, speakers etc. will be in a different guide/preset list; this is just the actual pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case:**  &#xD;&#xA;Name : Thermaltake Versa N21 Window Mid-Tower Chassis Case CA-1D9-00M1WN-00  &#xD;&#xA;Cost : 59.48  &#xD;&#xA;Why I choose it: Has sleek black look; Window; keeps usb(s) on top (I believe) for less accidents  &#xD;&#xA;**CPU:**  &#xD;&#xA;Name: AMD FD8320FRHKBOX FX-8320 FX-Series 8-Core Black Edition Processor   &#xD;&#xA;Cost: 140.81  &#xD;&#xA;Why I choose it: Has 8 cores which will be useful for the future, can be overclocked to 4.0 ghz for more work  &#xD;&#xA;**RAM:**  &#xD;&#xA;Name : Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory BLS2K4G3D169DS1J  &#xD;&#xA;Cost: 37.99  &#xD;&#xA;Why I choose it: 8 gbs of ram for 38 is really cheap. Furthermore it is clocked at 1600 which is good for DDR3 gaming.   &#xD;&#xA;**GPU:**  &#xD;&#xA;Name: MSI Computer NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 GAMING 4G 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 Graphics Card  &#xD;&#xA;Cost: 349.99  &#xD;&#xA;Why I chose it: The GTX is a well known card, and is powerful; just what I need for intense games and shaders.  &#xD;&#xA;**PSU:**  &#xD;&#xA;Name: Thermaltake TOUGHPOWER 1200W 80 PLUS GOLD Full Modular Power Supply PS-TPD-1200MPCGUS-1  &#xD;&#xA;Cost: 131.92  &#xD;&#xA;Why I chose it: You can buy the 1k watt PSU for $30 more. Great deal. The CPU takes 125 watts; the GPU recommends 850+ PSU, and the power is great for extreme overclocking (though not something I recommend)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard drive and optical disk drive:  &#xD;&#xA;[HDD][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ODD][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Serial-ATA-Internal-Optical-DRW-24B1ST/dp/B0033Z2BAQ/ref=lp_1292107011_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450130365&amp;sr=1-2 &quot;ODD&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=14MPTP2F11FSMGSDH7C1/%22HDD%22/&quot;A&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend I tweak?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;REQUIRMENTS: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stays under the 900 budget  &#xD;&#xA;Is compatible with other parts  &#xD;&#xA;Do not sacrifice a component for a different component (example removing odd for better hdd)  &#xD;&#xA;Is useful for the next 3-4 years.  &#xD;&#xA;You must explain the benefits of replacing the object.  &#xD;&#xA;Is not from an unknown brand in the middle of nowhere  &#xD;&#xA;Warranty for breaking the object (Let's pretend the user has no experience with computer building and is a first-timer)    &#xD;&#xA;Is from a well known website (preferably amazon but newegg will do well too)&#xD;&#xA;Does not need to come with all the whistles and bells (but it can if you think they are useful)  &#xD;&#xA;If you suggest (example) DDR4; then you also need to give a requirement for the things that use DDR4 (MB, RAM, ECT.)   &#xD;&#xA;The case must have upgrade space (though I really like the case and don't see a better option right know)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, If you could come up with a name for the build then +1. No bloody names like Ripjaw but rather original like borinator (Austin Evans And Linus Tech Tips) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; Example: &lt;/h1&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/MSI-970A-SLI-KRAIT-Motherboard/dp/B00WB9MUX8/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450132589&amp;sr=1-12&quot;&gt; MSI SLI KRAIT &lt;/a&gt; as it supports 32 gigabytes of ram. It supports windows 10 and has an install manual. It supports your CPU so you do not have to worry about that. [Add more details however]   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1552" RevisionGUID="d7aaf24a-1109-4862-be9f-8df190fe7f89" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:11:37.457" UserId="821" Text="My gaming build - any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1552" RevisionGUID="d7aaf24a-1109-4862-be9f-8df190fe7f89" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:11:37.457" UserId="821" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="10991a0d-cb8f-4058-8581-2b1a67390e3b" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:13:15.697" UserId="1260" Text="So I'm looking for a budget laptop essentially for programming. I will be going abroad to finish my computer engineering degree and I'll need to have a good tool to do my work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need it to be light and smaller than 15&quot; since I'll have to carry it around in my pack. Also, the battery should last more than 3 hours. My current laptop is this one http://www.toshiba.es/discontinued-products/satellite-a500-1ej/ (bought 5-6 years ago), so i'd like it to be an improvement. Also, I would like to avoid brands like toshiba, hp,... which usually have a lot of problems (I had to change 4 times my actual computer because of the cooling system). And finally, preferably that comes with no OS since I will install linux, and I don't want to spend 50$ in a windows license which I will delete.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The money to spend is 500-600$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="10991a0d-cb8f-4058-8581-2b1a67390e3b" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:13:15.697" UserId="1260" Text="Budget laptop for working (programming)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="10991a0d-cb8f-4058-8581-2b1a67390e3b" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:13:15.697" UserId="1260" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="5c24661b-fde1-4948-bf97-371797c6f8b9" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:24:23.927" UserId="203" Comment="Removed ambiguous wording, improved link formatting, edited windows price estimate to reflect OEM licence cost to consumer, added relevant tags." Text="So I'm looking for a budget laptop for programming. I will be going abroad to finish my computer engineering degree and I'll need to have a good tool to do my work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need it to be light and smaller than 15&quot; since I'll have to carry it around in my pack. Also, the battery should last more than 3 hours. My current laptop is the [Toshiba Satellite A500-1EJ](http://www.toshiba.es/discontinued-products/satellite-a500-1ej/), which I bought 5-6 years ago, and I'd like the new laptop to be an improvement over it. Also, I would like to avoid brands like Toshiba and HP, which I've had bad experiences with (*e.g.* I had to change my actual computer 4 times because of the cooling system). I want a reliable laptop that I can use for a long time. Finally, I do not need the computer to come with an OS, but it must be linux compatible since I will install linux, and I don't want to spend $80 for a Windows license which I won't use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 500-600$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="5c24661b-fde1-4948-bf97-371797c6f8b9" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:24:23.927" UserId="203" Comment="Removed ambiguous wording, improved link formatting, edited windows price estimate to reflect OEM licence cost to consumer, added relevant tags." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1554" RevisionGUID="739d4158-a1d4-4dad-ba06-674c7e709507" CreationDate="2015-12-15T02:56:58.323" UserId="1263" Text="I'm looking for embedded linux hardware that supports USB and preferably serial though that can be accomplished with USB.  It also need to have a screen with either buttons on the side or a touch screen.  A tablet that runs linux (not android) is acceptable so long as a USB hub can be attached and it can act as a USB host and charge at the same time.  I need to run applications that are written as standard linux apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I'm prototyping but I anticipate needing 10-100/year so a one off surplus device won't work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious answer is a raspberry pi and the newly released screen, but I'm wondering if people know of other options out there that are cheaper or smaller (the 7&quot; screen is okay but bigger than I need).  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1554" RevisionGUID="739d4158-a1d4-4dad-ba06-674c7e709507" CreationDate="2015-12-15T02:56:58.323" UserId="1263" Text="Suggestions for inexpensive embedded linux hardware with screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1554" RevisionGUID="739d4158-a1d4-4dad-ba06-674c7e709507" CreationDate="2015-12-15T02:56:58.323" UserId="1263" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="94bcfb99-5633-46f8-9b52-e6f3c3553fb0" CreationDate="2015-12-15T09:57:56.233" UserId="1266" Text="I want to buy a monitor and I'm not sure which one I should buy. I have those two in my short list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*BenQ GL2450H*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Asus VS247HR*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, both seem to be fine for my purpose, but there still is a difference in the price. Can anybody find some great differeneces or can advise me one of them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="94bcfb99-5633-46f8-9b52-e6f3c3553fb0" CreationDate="2015-12-15T09:57:56.233" UserId="1266" Text="Which monitor should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="94bcfb99-5633-46f8-9b52-e6f3c3553fb0" CreationDate="2015-12-15T09:57:56.233" UserId="1266" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="881a7122-435f-420b-80ed-38d8523739df" CreationDate="2015-12-15T10:00:09.107" UserId="1260" Comment="added 648 characters in body" Text="So I'm looking for a budget laptop for programming. I will be going abroad to finish my computer engineering degree and I'll need to have a good tool to do my work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need it to be light and smaller than 15&quot; since I'll have to carry it around in my pack. Also, the battery should last more than 3 hours. My current laptop is the [Toshiba Satellite A500-1EJ](http://www.toshiba.es/discontinued-products/satellite-a500-1ej/), which I bought 5-6 years ago, and I'd like the new laptop to be an improvement over it. Also, I would like to avoid brands like Toshiba and HP, which I've had bad experiences with (*e.g.* I had to change my actual computer 4 times because of the cooling system). I want a reliable laptop that I can use for a long time. Finally, I do not need the computer to come with an OS, but it must be linux compatible since I will install linux, and I don't want to spend $80 for a Windows license which I won't use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 500-600$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I can't say which language program I use because I use more than 10, depending on the situation (c ,python, java, c++, c#, node,...). The only thing I can say is that I don't mind having the integrated graphics card if it can allow me to code other things that games (I won't code games, just basic GUIs and that's all), also I won't code anything for IOS so apple is totally discarded.&#xD;&#xA;I do want a ssd but this would be out of budget and I can always put one in some years.&#xD;&#xA;The storage doesn't really matter, I won't have any 'big' software more than Visual Studio, everything else should be under 2GB, so I think I'd do with 250-500GB.&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if I could run 1-2 virtual machines at once." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="e735c68b-8a19-4e1e-9e52-252c3b2656ae" CreationDate="2015-12-15T10:55:08.683" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I want to buy a monitor and I'm not sure which one I should buy. I have those two in my short list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- BenQ GL2450H&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus VS247HR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, both seem to be fine for my purpose, but there still is a difference in the price. Can anybody find some great differences or can advise me one of them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="efd3c35e-85b6-4b00-b1fa-18e9d2783ce6" CreationDate="2015-12-15T11:12:40.350" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1559" RevisionGUID="242e6e39-cf4c-4ad6-bf29-d889af8e725c" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:25:32.500" UserId="951" Text="For programming the most botlenecking happens, when the content of RAM gets dumped to pagefile. So the priority shoudl be at least 8 GB of RAM (especially with VMs - if you ran two, 16GB would be better), next the SSD - in my experience, the processor does not bottleneck while programming as much as IO operations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would consider Lenovo B50-80 family of products: they are under the budget, have an ssd drive and magnetic one and 8 GB of RAM, it has 15.6 screen which matters, unless you plug to external monitor, and you can choose to have either i3-4030U, i5-5200U, or i7-5500U processor depending on your budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="129" RevisionGUID="bb27ed27-616e-4a52-9b2a-d36ae64b19ad" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:27:29.260" UserId="54" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="Due to the fact that TrueCrypt is [&quot;not secure&quot;][1] I've been looking for some other way to encrypt the data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WARNING: Using TrueCrypt is not secure as it may contain unfixed security issues&#xD;&#xA;&gt; You should download TrueCrypt only if you are migrating data encrypted&#xD;&#xA;&gt; by TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you provide some information about pros &amp; cons connected with hardware-based encryption? What if the firmware is controlled by a third-party malicious? I'll be glad if could recommend some SSD which cover the following points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. There is no problem with BIOS compatibility.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The quality of the encryption is similar to the TrueCrypt.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Firmware of the drive haven't been compromised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way...&#xD;&#xA;Have you heard about [TOMB][2]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://truecrypt.sourceforge.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dyne.org/software/tomb/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1559" RevisionGUID="89cfb374-06a7-475b-9523-56fc79f0870e" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:34:02.253" UserId="951" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="For programming the most botlenecking happens, when the content of RAM gets dumped to pagefile. So the priority should be at least 8 GB of RAM (especially with VMs - if you ran two, 16GB would be better), next the SSD - in my experience, the processor does not bottleneck while programming as much as IO operations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would consider Lenovo B50-80 family of products: they can be found under the budget, having an ssd drive and magnetic one and 8 GB of RAM. It has 15.6 screen which matters, unless you plug to external monitor, and you can choose to have either i3-4030U, i5-5200U, or i7-5500U processor depending on your budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1560" RevisionGUID="24f290f0-35d5-4c23-af34-cac246f7f7ec" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:12:06.580" UserId="1267" Text="PocketChip (http://getchip.com/pages/pocketchip) may satisfy your needs, but may be overkill. It has a very small QWERTY keyboard, a 4.3&quot; screen and a battery, for $50. It is not clear whether the USB output is exposed or not, only the GPIO is mentioned..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1564" RevisionGUID="f41c80a5-b2e0-4064-8a1c-96758eba9ec5" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:07:37.457" UserId="1271" Text="I work in a co-working space and keep a small NAS, a micro-PC, a router and a few other small components running on my desk. While it's a safe space I'd like to add a bit more anti-theft security. Because they're all small components I didn't want to go through the hassle of trying to cable them all down individually (my NAS could just be unscrewed and the hard drives removed anyway), I had the idea of finding a metal enclosure I could put on the floor, shove all the devices inside and just lock the box to my desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not been able to find much like this though, closest is a server rack enclosure (http://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-SRW12US-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B001TGUYI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450206234&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=server+enclosure) but that seems overkill, don't need the wall mounting or the size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone aware of any other solutions for this sort of thing? Or at least a rack enclosure that's smaller than usual? As long as it's lockable, somewhat ventilated and has a a space for cables to come out, I'm good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1564" RevisionGUID="f41c80a5-b2e0-4064-8a1c-96758eba9ec5" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:07:37.457" UserId="1271" Text="Small security enclosures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1564" RevisionGUID="f41c80a5-b2e0-4064-8a1c-96758eba9ec5" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:07:37.457" UserId="1271" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1565" RevisionGUID="a6890cae-2844-4af2-91ba-76a354dc9186" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:10:54.370" UserId="1135" Text="I am using 2 of the BenQ GL2450H(T) and I am very satisfied with them, 60 Hertz is enough for every game and with 24 Inches you can see clearly everything. It(Mine) has a HDMI-Input, DVI and VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely recommand this one. I have never heard of the other one though so I can't tell anything about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1567" RevisionGUID="3ae0b3d1-9a84-4015-9a94-cf32defef0f3" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:26:39.720" UserId="1135" Text="There is an energy-saving version of the `FX8320`, it just has an E at the End of it's name: `FX8320E`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 1200W-PSU is far enough for a 150W-GPU and a 105W-CPU, a smaller one like 650W-730W would also be far enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I wouldn't mix a AMD-CPU with a nVidia-GPU but nearly everybody says, that this doesn't do anything. The rest is fine. I don't know anythin about Thermaltake though and in my opinion nVidia is overpriced, so I would recommend Radeon on all times but that's my personal opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;I am using the FX-8320E for 4-5 Months now and I'm very satisfied with it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="b1cccce2-c27c-4219-8fcd-ccdb9201bc7e" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:28:52.943" UserId="241" Comment="Add requirements from comments" Text="I want to buy a monitor and I'm not sure which one I should buy. I have those two in my short list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- BenQ GL2450H&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus VS247HR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, both seem to be fine for my purpose, but there still is a difference in the price. Can anybody find some great differences or can advise me one of them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm particularly interested in a very good view angle and a high refresh rate (max. 5ms)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5635" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1557" RevisionGUID="d5cde258-0c5a-4fa3-8dad-d4e7c7737d98" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:40:35.607" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5636" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1559" RevisionGUID="996b6e83-b70e-472f-9109-cd658b2ffb1c" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:54:29.757" UserId="951" Comment="added 622 characters in body" Text="For programming the most botlenecking happens, when the content of RAM gets dumped to pagefile. So the priority should be at least 8 GB of RAM (especially with VMs - if you ran two, 16GB would be better), next the SSD - in my experience, the processor does not bottleneck while programming as much as IO operations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would consider Lenovo B50-80 family of products: they can be found under the budget, having an ssd drive and magnetic one and 8 GB of RAM. It has 15.6 screen which matters, unless you plug to external monitor, and you can choose to have either i3-4030U, i5-5200U, or i7-5500U processor depending on your budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hovewer, if you do not need DVD and like 13 inch display, the best fitting laptop would be [Dell Latitude 3340 13.3&quot; i3 4005U 8GB RAM 128GB SSD Windows 8][1]. It has SSD drive, no bloat DVD or graphics card, is much thicker and a bit lighter (1.8 kg due to huge 5800 mAh battery I guess), can handle up to 16GB of RAM and it's Dell, so it'll live for years. The downside is 41$ + shipping above the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Laptop-Latitude-4005U-Windows/dp/B0190DKIFY/ref=sr_1_16?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450208956&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=Dell%20Latitude%203340%20ssd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834314214" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="aa741ef8-2450-48df-878d-5aa5467ff84d" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:15:26.043" UserId="949" Text="So, I made a thread some weeks ago about graphics card recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;here is the link to it: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1212/graphics-card-for-heavy-gaming-game-development-graphics-design-and-video-edit/1257#1257&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what I'm planning to buy is&#xD;&#xA;processor Intel i7 6700k,&#xD;&#xA;gpu 2x ( sli) 980ti,&#xD;&#xA;motherboard ASUS Z170-A ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;now I need to choose ram, and I'm kinda confused. I know this motherboard supports up to 64GB RAM ( 4 slots). So I want to max it now to not have problems to deal in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know 64GB ram is a lot, and I'll probably not use it all, but its just for convenience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about this RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&lt;http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-2133MHz-KVR21R15D4K4-64/dp/B00NLZANJO&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;is that a good option? is there any way to improve it? will this &quot;Temperature Sensor&quot; cause problems?&#xD;&#xA;thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="aa741ef8-2450-48df-878d-5aa5467ff84d" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:15:26.043" UserId="949" Text="Ram compatibility and recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="aa741ef8-2450-48df-878d-5aa5467ff84d" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:15:26.043" UserId="949" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="c861b76b-83f9-47f8-9f8f-c9487be9d224" CreationDate="2015-12-15T22:17:06.067" UserId="1260" Comment="added 152 characters in body" Text="So I'm looking for a budget laptop for programming. I will be going abroad to finish my computer engineering degree and I'll need to have a good tool to do my work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need it to be light and smaller than 15&quot; since I'll have to carry it around in my pack. Also, the battery should last more than 3 hours. My current laptop is the [Toshiba Satellite A500-1EJ](http://www.toshiba.es/discontinued-products/satellite-a500-1ej/), which I bought 5-6 years ago, and I'd like the new laptop to be an improvement over it. Also, I would like to avoid brands like Toshiba and HP, which I've had bad experiences with (*e.g.* I had to change my actual computer 4 times because of the cooling system). I want a reliable laptop that I can use for a long time. Finally, I do not need the computer to come with an OS, but it must be linux compatible since I will install linux, and I don't want to spend $80 for a Windows license which I won't use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 500-600$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I can't say which language program I use because I use more than 10, depending on the situation (c ,python, java, c++, c#, node,...). The only thing I can say is that I don't mind having the integrated graphics card if it can allow me to code other things that games (I won't code games, just basic GUIs and that's all), also I won't code anything for IOS so apple is totally discarded.&#xD;&#xA;I do want a ssd but this would be out of budget and I can always put one in some years.&#xD;&#xA;The storage doesn't really matter, I won't have any 'big' software more than Visual Studio, everything else should be under 2GB, so I think I'd do with 250-500GB.&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if I could run 1-2 virtual machines at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/300-series/300s-14-inch/ Could someone give me an opinion about this one &quot;Ideapad 300S-14 - 80Q4000KUS&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1564" RevisionGUID="c07df26d-e9a4-4b10-8bec-8452c57c8632" CreationDate="2015-12-16T02:38:02.353" UserId="1271" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I work in a co-working space and keep a small NAS, a micro-PC, a router and a few other small components running on my desk. While it's a safe space I'd like to add a bit more anti-theft security. Because they're all small components I didn't want to go through the hassle of trying to cable them all down individually (my NAS could just be unscrewed and the hard drives removed anyway), I had the idea of finding a metal enclosure I could put on the floor, shove all the devices inside and just lock the box to my desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not been able to find much like this though, closest is a server rack enclosure (http://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-SRW12US-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B001TGUYI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450206234&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=server+enclosure) but that seems overkill, don't need the wall mounting or the size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone aware of any other solutions for this sort of thing? Or at least a rack enclosure that's smaller than usual? As long as it's lockable, somewhat ventilated and has a a space for cables to come out, I'm good. Min volume ~30cm^3, max ~50cm^3, shape doesn't much matter, just going under the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="c5ba4dad-4ca6-4999-baf9-685c955545da" CreationDate="2015-12-16T06:58:47.580" UserId="531" Comment="added 1886 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up a Crossover 289K, sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've *not* gotten a chance to test this with a HDMI 2.0 source (I should, but I'm lazy) and I'm still in the process of caliberating it manually - Its acceptable out of the box but I'm trying to match it with my other monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 3x HDMI 2.0 (which differenciates this from older models) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="4bb697b2-442c-4bec-9c77-a964e1562cd5" CreationDate="2015-12-16T07:33:29.787" UserId="1184" Comment="inline links, used bullet lists, etc." Text="A few weeks ago, I asked a question for a graphics card recommendation, [here](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1212/graphics-card-for-heavy-gaming-game-development-graphics-design-and-video-edit/1257#1257)&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm planning to buy is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel i7 6700k,&#xD;&#xA; - GPU:  2x (SLI) 980TI,&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: ASUS Z170-A ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I need to choose the RAM, and I'm kinda confused. I know this motherboard supports up to 64GB RAM (4 slots). So I want to max it now to not have problems to deal in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know 64GB ram is a lot, and I'll probably not use it all, but its just for convenience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about [this RAM](http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-2133MHz-KVR21R15D4K4-64/dp/B00NLZANJO)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a good option? Is there any way to improve it? Will this &quot;Temperature Sensor&quot; cause problems?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="4bb697b2-442c-4bec-9c77-a964e1562cd5" CreationDate="2015-12-16T07:33:29.787" UserId="1184" Comment="inline links, used bullet lists, etc." Text="RAM compatibility and recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="4bb697b2-442c-4bec-9c77-a964e1562cd5" CreationDate="2015-12-16T07:33:29.787" Comment="Proposed by 1184 approved by 155 edit id of 334" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1560" RevisionGUID="3e04cecb-ff6f-4ba3-9c0f-869b4d6e7b45" CreationDate="2015-12-16T07:50:24.570" UserId="1267" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="PocketChip (http://getchip.com/pages/pocketchip) may satisfy your needs, but may be overkill. It has a very small QWERTY keyboard, a 4.3&quot; screen and a battery, for $50. It is not clear whether the USB output is exposed or not, only the GPIO is mentioned...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other gotcha is that it **has not been released yet**, and there is no specific launch date for it yet (the board itself will start to ship in May 2016). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1569" RevisionGUID="925400de-2c47-483f-ba4a-231cd2d4e416" CreationDate="2015-12-16T09:48:26.847" UserId="241" Text="The RAM you've selected is incompatible with the rest of your parts.  It is *ECC* (stores extra data in order to detect memory errors) *registered* (uses a special circuit to reduce the amount of power needed to drive signals) memory, while the CPU and mainboard you've selected only support regular (non-ECC, non-registered) memory." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="180c57aa-f82e-4980-9365-fd80359099bf" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:24:59.260" UserId="1275" Text="I am looking for a hardware device which will allow a blind person to simply navigate in 3D space alerting to object types and giving options for feet and hands (feet first). Use a special five-stop hardware device on the chest or voice to switch around the following, from top to bottom in the case of the switch-stop-black-plastic-vertical-bar-on-the-chest:&#xA;&#xA;A. Sphere-navigate&#xA;B. Tree-navigate&#xA;C. 3D-subnavigate&#xA;D. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xA;&#xA;A. Sphere-navigate: SAY FORWARD: allow user to spin on the legs, when possible, without getting hurt. Alert to everything in the font part of the vision sphere, or whatever is considered in front. SAY TURN LEFT: alert to what is in immediate epsilon_N wide area on the left of the semicircle (eg.: door, bed, floor, table. Pick an &quot;on the median&quot;, safe-spot on the floor. Announce the directed distance 3-distance Euclidean n-tuple saying how far each of the two hands is from the &quot;¿safe spot&quot;?.&#xA;&#xA;Say: EYE position. This can be, upper part of the head, penis (here you will need a sound that changes continuousky as tge blind user has /?goes through an ere tion), left hand, right hand, foot, leg, etc (elbow or whatever).&#xA;&#xA;B. Tree-navigate.&#xA;&#xA;In the current &quot;front area&quot;, allow the user to navigate by voice: FRONT,BACK,PREVIOUS (for the perevious child, for the hand's field of view in front of the left hand or ither eye field of view).&#xA;&#xA;This interface could also be used for a dog, pig, turtle, dolphin, whale, bird, beaver, or other animal.&#xA;&#xA;C. 3D-subnavigate: Ok, now we can &quot;see&quot; the tree. Decide whenever you want to navigate along the &quot;safe vector&quot;. A &quot; wave voice/sound&quot; will use separate /&quot;components&quot;\, to announce your hand increment (0,0,0) -&gt; (N_A,N_B,N_C) (and also hand speed as the third coordinate of the tuple. I don't have a clue about how the blind person would, perceive the difference between relative displacement and speed, along this operation.&#xA;&#xA;Ok. The speaker has SAID MOVE HAND to perform thid op. Just like the *EYE can be anywhere, the *HAND can beany where as well. Don't confuse the abstract eye and hand with the physical parts of the body announced by the machine with continuous names, with a granularity of skin location names akin to the level of detail found in advanced medical anatomy books.&#xA;&#xA;D. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xA;&#xA;Each eye can at the same time be hand. There is a slight problem, because when one HAND moves, the other epsilon-adjacent HANDS also move.&#xA;&#xA;Object appearance (eg. User turns on the tap, thus changing the tree, an alert will be given, etc.).&#xA;&#xA;Also, turn on the tap and the water appears is an instantaneous appearance. An object entering the room is a continuous appearance.&#xA;&#xA;If the blind person was also deaf..., place a pressure/heat/shape sensor in their mouth so they can feel everything inclusive of the voice commands (use buttons on the chest, but then they could hurt their hands in getting back to the &quot;root-node controls, however many there could be on the chest).&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="180c57aa-f82e-4980-9365-fd80359099bf" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:24:59.260" UserId="1275" Text="Compurt-vision hardware people for the blind and deaf blind" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="180c57aa-f82e-4980-9365-fd80359099bf" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:24:59.260" UserId="1275" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1572" RevisionGUID="619136cb-16c6-44b5-9f3e-068c4cac16aa" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:56:12.663" UserId="1275" Text="Hardware keyboards for one-handed people have existed long-time ago. But what if the user had a partial second hand, or even just an elbow pushbutton, or a box with four corners which the elbow could push on to achieve the effect of pushing a SELECT-KEYBOARD-KEYS button. Thus, either this for people with an elbow and no hands (use the feet instead of the elbow input-device on a place next to the chair. Moving the elbow should feel like operating the gears of a tractor or car).&#xA;&#xA;A person with no hands (just feet could use two [cyclically arranged switch]-machines. They look loke roulette-machine circles, but have an metal icon with a clamp that goes around the foot. As you move the clamp with the part above the ankle (which is part of the 3/8 area down the leg), the slider moves, making a click the person can hear to know what position they are in. A little bit at a tine, the no-arm(es) person will get accustomed to what letter each position will correspond to.&#xA;&#xA;A separate, but similar, hooked-roulette wheel device around the waist (a special chair, would need to be present here), allows the armless person to type each time they move the waist around the waist-wheel, making a click moving the device to wherever they want to click, thus selecting the letter corresponding to the feet.&#xA;&#xA;Bite a braces like device in your mouth to toggle between 1-D selection (both directions around the waist-wheel click, or 2-D selection: counterclockwise for imaginary selection of keyboard language (one click to switch to the next of M languages *\.spoken by the user), and any movement in the clockwise direction to type.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Are there any such interfaces?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1572" RevisionGUID="619136cb-16c6-44b5-9f3e-068c4cac16aa" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:56:12.663" UserId="1275" Text="PC hardware keyboard + chooser for partially one-handed people" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1572" RevisionGUID="619136cb-16c6-44b5-9f3e-068c4cac16aa" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:56:12.663" UserId="1275" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="909e58e7-0599-48a1-a271-f65c56ee0d20" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:41:16.347" UserId="1278" Text="I have a macbook since decembre 2011.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my configuration:&#xD;&#xA;-MacBook Pro (13-inch, Late 2011)&#xD;&#xA;-Processor 2.4 GHz Intel Core i5&#xD;&#xA;-Memory 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;-Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I going to buy this [SSD][1] and this [RAM][2]&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm pretty sure, that the SSD and the RAM are compatible with my computer, but does anyone can confirm me I made the right choice please.&#xD;&#xA; - I need to install many OS on a virtual machine, but sometime, it could be impossible to install or used it because it was too slow. Does anyone can confirm me if the SSD + more RAM will increase my VM performance ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/prix/acheter,crucial-250go-mx200,805797&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/prix/acheter,crucial-so-dimm-mac-ddr3-1600-cl11-8go,771153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="909e58e7-0599-48a1-a271-f65c56ee0d20" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:41:16.347" UserId="1278" Text="Does a SSD and more RAM will increase VM performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="909e58e7-0599-48a1-a271-f65c56ee0d20" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:41:16.347" UserId="1278" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="ae040d41-3dec-447f-af1d-a0075a91f17b" CreationDate="2015-12-16T13:43:36.110" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I have a macbook since December 2011.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MacBook Pro (13-inch, Late 2011)&#xD;&#xA;- Processor 2.4 GHz Intel Core i5&#xD;&#xA;- Memory 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I going to buy this [SSD][1] and this [RAM][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm pretty sure, that the SSD and the RAM are compatible with my computer, but does anyone can confirm me I made the right choice please.&#xD;&#xA; - I need to install many OS on a virtual machine, but sometime, it could be impossible to install or used it because it was too slow. Does anyone can confirm me if the SSD + more RAM will increase my VM performance ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/prix/acheter,crucial-250go-mx200,805797&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/prix/acheter,crucial-so-dimm-mac-ddr3-1600-cl11-8go,771153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1574" RevisionGUID="1c0eef78-7f3d-4fe2-a7e2-ffa8b4a6bed0" CreationDate="2015-12-16T14:18:34.963" UserId="65" Text="It depends on a couple of factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does your MacBook already have an SSD?&#xD;&#xA;- Are you using your VMs for disk and memory-intensive operations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, yes, an SSD and more memory will speed up VMs.  For me, switching to SSD provided a greater performance benefit than any other single upgrade I've ever done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your MacBook already has SSD, a newer/bigger/faster SSD isn't going to make much difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM will only make a difference if it gets used, which depends entirely on how much you have, how much is allocated to the VMs, what operating systems they will have, and what programs you run in the VMs.  4 GB sounds like not much RAM to be using VMs, especially if you're trying to run more than one at a time.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="1468d089-9d8a-4d7d-9d5b-c4e3fac199d7" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:20:01.943" UserId="229" Comment="update status of support for e-kits" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source (very long and ongoing thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**To Sum Up**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is either some kind of custom made (or official) adapter that can pass the e-kit to the Xbox One directly or a method of using an older RB or GH drum set as a pass-through device (with detailed instructions).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only **requirement** on top of basic Rock Band drumming functionality is to be compatible with &quot;Pro-Cymbal Mode&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippet from Harmonix Product Manager, Daniel Sussman:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/the-future-of-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is from the company that made Rock Band 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We know there are a bunch of other things that are important that we are actively working on (Xbox One support for ION drums, for example). Stay tuned for more info, when we have details, trust that we’ll share them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This next quote is showing what is their highest priority as of December 15, 2015. I am speculating the support for ION drums won't be available till after January.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We hear everyone clamoring for the export entitlements of previous Rock Band games, so we’re bumping their priority to the top of the list. We’re shooting to have these up in the store for the folks who’ve exported their prior games in January. We’re starting with the original Rock Band and then following up with Rock Band 2 and Lego Rock Band." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="6b8869c6-6989-40a9-b428-899f9d87478a" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:24:48.100" UserId="65" Comment="Fixed grammar error in title" Text="Will an SSD and more RAM increase VM performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1573" RevisionGUID="6b8869c6-6989-40a9-b428-899f9d87478a" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:24:48.100" Comment="Proposed by 65 approved by 1 edit id of 335" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1575" RevisionGUID="7a5165f8-ed0b-425b-9810-e8a32f484440" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:50:52.113" UserId="54" Text="As Paul Taylor already mentioned, **Lenovo X220** was chosen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the OP's requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Dislay: 12.5&quot; (1366x768, LED backlight, wideview, **anti-glare**, anti-**reflective**)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Weight: 3.5 pounds with 6-cell battery (~1.6 kg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ X220 will handle popular Linux distros with ease ([Source 1][1], [Source 2][2]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☒ Most often X220 has Windows on the board but it can be also (in specific cases) available without an operating system ([related link][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Powerful enough to learn programming and play simple games&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ SSD is available in some builds (up to 160 GB - [datasheet][4]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ It's in your budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the people don't really like the gritty touchpad but you can replace it on your own for ~$13.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [topic][5] may be useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I have found a very perfect solution for the ones that do not like the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; touchpads on newer Thinkpads. On my Thinkpad T400s i just peeled of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the old surface, which is just a sticker, cleaned of the glue by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; rubbbing it off with my finger, and then put on a new smooth&#xD;&#xA;&gt; touchpadsurface from the company skinstyler&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I recently replaced the worn gritty touchpad on my Lenovo T420S.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; For those wondering around this I have attached a pic.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; http://1drv.ms/1pacMv8&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Process was easy, and removing the existing skin remarkably easy. My&#xD;&#xA;&gt; pad was pre-cut according to T420S size. I would recommend doing it -&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the old worn pads do look tacky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Protection skin mentioned in the topic is available [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Related video][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/2te1m8/best_linux_distro_for_x220/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://senk9.wordpress.com/2014/02/21/lenovox220/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/43494/where-can-i-buy-a-lenovo-x220-with-ubuntu-preinstalled&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://shop.lenovo.com/ISS_Static/ww/wci/us/ww/pdf/x220_datasheet.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&amp;t=98352&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.skinstyler.com/pc/black-for-pc-touchpad-protector-skin-p-281.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOUyhqnaGcU&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0TP4Q.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="d09124d8-00b3-4a82-a0ac-a3e6d3449028" CreationDate="2015-12-17T01:05:29.453" UserId="279" Text="I am going to upgrade my PC over Christmas, and right now I'm trying to pick out a PSU. I would like it to be fully modular, 80+ gold or better efficiency and preferably cheap. I found the [Antec HCP750 Platinum](https://pcpartpicker.com/part/antec-power-supply-hcp750platinum) and it looks awesome. It's very cheap (as far as platinum rated fully modular PSUs go), and has plenty of wattage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, now I'm wondering if it has too many watts. My maximum estimated wattage is 457, and the Antec PSU goes up to 750. That seems like a good thing in case I ever wanted to, say add additional video cards or more powerful video cards. Are there any downsides that I'm unaware of to having significantly more power in your PSU then your pc will actually draw? (Electricity bill, longevity of parts... etc.) Should I go for something more reasonable, like a 500-600W?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="d09124d8-00b3-4a82-a0ac-a3e6d3449028" CreationDate="2015-12-17T01:05:29.453" UserId="279" Text="How far above my power draw should a PSU be?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="d09124d8-00b3-4a82-a0ac-a3e6d3449028" CreationDate="2015-12-17T01:05:29.453" UserId="279" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;psu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="0d587228-05ec-4321-802f-2da0d701b9fd" CreationDate="2015-12-17T04:26:05.847" UserId="1184" Comment="psu should be a synonym of power-supply" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="0d587228-05ec-4321-802f-2da0d701b9fd" CreationDate="2015-12-17T04:26:05.847" Comment="Proposed by 1184 approved by 57, 155 edit id of 336" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1578" RevisionGUID="6b8e784d-8ede-449e-bc5c-ddf6f8957476" CreationDate="2015-12-17T04:36:13.553" UserId="461" Text="So far I haven't found anything that beats my Thinkpads X201s and a 14&quot; T61 (4:3 aspect ratio) for my own needs (mostly programming as well), so I'd recommend that.  They're pretty cheap nowadays on ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything more recent will have a ridiculously short screen (they call them &quot;wide&quot; for the gullibles) which means you need to get a bigger and heavier machine in order to keep the same number of code lines on screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="ef0f7164-28c0-423c-a3c5-9187a544d89e" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:25:39.930" UserId="1221" Comment="Made it clearer that the question is asking for *Android* tablets specifically in the question title and added an 'android' and 'displays' tag to make it easier to find. Also made some typographic changes to make it look nicer (replaced quotation marks for inches with double primes, etc.)." Text="I bought several inexpensive new 7″ and 10″ Android tablets from different manufacturers.  The screens on all of them are quite poor.  You have to look at them at just the right angle to get a reasonably good image.  Straight-on viewing is no good, nor is anything at more than a 20° angle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I even wrote [this SuperUser question][1] asking about what has changed in LED screen manufacturing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend inexpensive 7″–11″ Android tablets that have good quality screens?  By ‘good quality screen’, I mean something that when viewed straight-on looks perfect, and is usable at a minimum of 30° in all 4 directions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t have a requirement of the screen technology (IPS, etc.).  Although more pixels is better, I prefer image quality over pixel density.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Android version must be 4.4 ‘KitKat’ or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like as low of a price as possible, but am not going to set a price requirement because I don’t know the starting price point for a tablet with a good screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/1012398/why-is-straight-on-viewing-of-inexpensive-lcd-screens-no-longer-the-best-angle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="ef0f7164-28c0-423c-a3c5-9187a544d89e" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:25:39.930" UserId="1221" Comment="Made it clearer that the question is asking for *Android* tablets specifically in the question title and added an 'android' and 'displays' tag to make it easier to find. Also made some typographic changes to make it look nicer (replaced quotation marks for inches with double primes, etc.)." Text="Low cost Android tablets with high quality screens" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="ef0f7164-28c0-423c-a3c5-9187a544d89e" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:25:39.930" UserId="1221" Comment="Made it clearer that the question is asking for *Android* tablets specifically in the question title and added an 'android' and 'displays' tag to make it easier to find. Also made some typographic changes to make it look nicer (replaced quotation marks for inches with double primes, etc.)." Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="ef0f7164-28c0-423c-a3c5-9187a544d89e" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:25:39.930" Comment="Proposed by 1221 approved by 527 edit id of 338" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1577" RevisionGUID="1665ff5c-dcca-4845-8f8d-9c2a43206b94" CreationDate="2015-12-17T09:11:01.080" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="I am going to upgrade my PC over Christmas, and right now I'm trying to pick out a PSU. I would like it to be fully modular, 80+ gold or better efficiency and preferably cheap. I found the [Antec HCP750 Platinum](https://pcpartpicker.com/part/antec-power-supply-hcp750platinum) and it looks awesome. It's very cheap (as far as platinum rated fully modular PSUs go), and has plenty of wattage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, now I'm wondering if it has too many watts. My maximum estimated wattage is 457, and the Antec PSU goes up to 750. That seems like a good thing in case I ever wanted to, say add additional video cards or more powerful video cards. Are there any downsides that I'm unaware of to having significantly more power in your PSU than your pc will actually draw? (Electricity bill, longevity of parts... etc.) Should I go for something more reasonable, like a 500-600W?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1579" RevisionGUID="b72139d6-4d17-4df9-a3f8-8a31bc29b30d" CreationDate="2015-12-17T13:18:14.063" UserId="971" Text="For a 80-Plus Platinum power supply, efficiencies are between around 5% of one another between the 20 to 100% range of load(88-92, give or take a percent). It tops at around 70% load. &#xD;&#xA;Having more than required is certainly not a bad thing. PSU's like the HCP are rated to deliver their full wattage at fairly high temperatures, and 300W is enough for any card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So go ahead, you're good to make the purchase. Hardware reviewers use oversized power supplies all the time, and nothing happens to them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1580" RevisionGUID="21042deb-4595-4172-921d-74485765891f" CreationDate="2015-12-17T13:47:40.243" UserId="971" Text="This build needs work.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;You should wait out on buying AMD CPU's atleast till Zen comes out. They've just been re-releasing the same chip by overclocking it, and the 8320 is a slow chip. It's even slower than the 8350, which is the go-to chip for gaming AMD builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, because of a different architecture, AMD CPU's with a given frequency are far slower than Intel CPU's with the same frequency. AFAIK a 5GHz FX-8350 is comparable to a i5-4690K at stock(3.5 GHz). A normal 8350 is the equivalent of a mid-level i5 at best. I'd recommend a i5 4690K for gaming, you don't need 8 cores.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA; A GTX 970 consumes 145W of power. No way it'll need a 850W power supply. Maybe, if you're adding 3 cards in SLI, but not otherwise. &#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thermaltake power supplies aren't that great, especially the older TR2 models. Get Antec or Seasonic, 80+ Gold rated power supplies. 750W should be enough for a fairly high end build. I recommend Seasonic.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;For the motherboard, MSI is cheap, but not that great(power delivery circuitry is inferior to some brands). I'd recommend a Asus or Gigabyte Z97 based board. Get a Asus Z97-A or a Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 5, it'll allow you to add another 970 when you want.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;As for the case, it looks mostly OK, except for the back panel. Do you have experience with this case? It seems that there is low clearance on the upper side of the motherboard from the back, which chould pinch cables; although it's hard to say from images without actually looking at it.&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking at a case that won't cost too much money, I'd recommend the Corsair Carbide 300R, 400R or 500R. They're also mid-tower, and a 300R should come at the same price as yours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the above answer from TesseractLabs, the AMD CPU/NVidia GPU and vice versa is all a myth. All of those are compatible. Although, if you go for a AMD FX CPU, you won't get integrated graphics.&#xD;&#xA;Both Intel and AMD CPUs are fine with AMD and NVIDIA GPUs, although you can't use both NVIDIA and AMD GPU's in the same PC yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1583" RevisionGUID="bd7e6b03-7265-4f93-a954-2b5c5f6f7573" CreationDate="2015-12-17T18:45:12.280" UserId="543" Text="My current system is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU:*** Intel Core i7 5820K.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard:*** Asus X99-A with USB3.1.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Cooler:*** Noctua NH-U14S.&#xD;&#xA; - ***RAM:*** 16GB (4x4GB) Vengeance LPX.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power supply:*** 650W Corsair RMx.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage:*** 250GB Samsung 850 EVO.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case:*** NZXT Noctis 450 Mid Tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a graphics card for my system. I will use my PC mainly for programming but I also do some video editing using Sony Vegas Pro. I need a GPU that is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Relatively quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - Under **£150.** &#xD;&#xA; - Supports 2+ monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody got any good recommendations for a GPU that is suitable for my usage?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1583" RevisionGUID="bd7e6b03-7265-4f93-a954-2b5c5f6f7573" CreationDate="2015-12-17T18:45:12.280" UserId="543" Text="Graphics card choice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1583" RevisionGUID="bd7e6b03-7265-4f93-a954-2b5c5f6f7573" CreationDate="2015-12-17T18:45:12.280" UserId="543" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1585" RevisionGUID="f25c9d37-99c5-4c71-ac62-3a576235820e" CreationDate="2015-12-17T21:08:03.043" UserId="1288" Text="Professional video cards are the best for your work load as they will be optimized for things such as video editing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From Nvidia, there is the [Quadro K420][1]. From AMD there is the [FirePro W2100][2]. Both cards will be able to work with the GPU render acceleration in Vegas and both support use of 2+ monitors through DisplayPort, or adapters to convert the DisplayPort to other connectors. The K420 also provides native DVI-D with a cable that has two ports on it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The W2100 has 320 cores, while the K420 has 192. These cores are an integral part of the performance of the GPU because they are what GPU accelerated processes use to perform tasks. The W2100 also has twice the VRAM, which allows more data to be stored on the card while it is processing, which prevents the need to constantly pass data over the PCIe bus. Speaking of which, the K420 has ever so slightly higher memory bandwidth (29GBps vs. 28.8GBps), but this difference is negligible. The W2100 also uses PCIe 3.0, whereas the K420 uses PCIe 2.0. This means the W2100 is capable of passing data over the PCIe bus faster than the K420.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, the W2100 is a better card at the price point, however if you have a preference for Nvidia cards, or want native DVI-D, the K420 may be a better choice for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPXS0F2/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814195131" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1583" RevisionGUID="1197a84d-d201-45f2-9e54-475c7bc17053" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:04:32.573" UserId="39" Comment="Added a detail from comments." Text="My current system is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ***CPU:*** Intel Core i7 5820K.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Motherboard:*** Asus X99-A with USB3.1.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Cooler:*** Noctua NH-U14S.&#xD;&#xA; - ***RAM:*** 16GB (4x4GB) Vengeance LPX.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Power supply:*** 650W Corsair RMx.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Storage:*** 250GB Samsung 850 EVO.&#xD;&#xA; - ***Case:*** NZXT Noctis 450 Mid Tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a graphics card for my system. I will use my PC mainly for programming, but I also do some video editing using Sony Vegas Pro. I need a GPU that is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Relatively quiet.&#xD;&#xA; - Under **£150.** &#xD;&#xA; - Supports 2+ monitors (1920 x 1080p Full HD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody got any good recommendations for a GPU that is suitable for my usage?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1583" RevisionGUID="1197a84d-d201-45f2-9e54-475c7bc17053" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:04:32.573" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 203, 54 edit id of 339" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1587" RevisionGUID="ea95eae7-3927-442a-b188-3618fe5e6e2a" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:36:02.833" UserId="203" Text="Sony Vega Pro's hardware acceleration uses OpenCL compute. Generally, the consumer cards have similar performance for quite a bit cheaper, as seen in the benchmark below.&#xD;&#xA;[![Sony Vegas 13 Benchmark, rendering time in seconds, lower is better][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OpenCL has also typically performed better on AMD cards, compared to NVidia cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Anandtech Sony Vegas Pro 13 render benchmark][3]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend the XFX R7 370 2GB Double Dissipation Video Card (R7-370P-2255), currently priced [$124.99 + $3.99 shipping at newegg.com][5], due to the fact that it has more than 3 times the stream processors running at a higher clockspeed, and that it uses GDDR5 rather than DDR3, which makes it quite a bit faster for Sony Vegas Pro, and for other applications, than the similarly priced W2100 and K420 workstation GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GiPLT.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/graphics/display/amd-firepro-w9100_6.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqlfx.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.anandtech.com/show/9390/the-amd-radeon-r9-fury-x-review/24&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150735" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1552" RevisionGUID="4f237b1f-6ce2-44f9-9e4f-f3b0a4aaf9f5" CreationDate="2015-12-18T07:27:52.917" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1588" RevisionGUID="aee7c7a2-478c-4acf-ac3f-e08143ce4522" CreationDate="2015-12-18T10:29:15.580" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the 4 GB Sapphire Nitro R9 380, currently [1000 RON with free shipping at Emag.ro][1]. The [R9 380 is able][2] to [average around 30 FPS on most modern games at 1080p maximum settings][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Sapphire Nitro is the highest end line of Sapphire GPUs and are made with high quality components. It has a 5+1 phase VRM and good cooling, so you should be able to [overclock it a fair bit as well][4]. 4 GB of VRAM can store larger textures and could come in handy for modern games. Unfortunately, the card does not come with native VGA, so you'll have to use your adaptor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be a GTX 960, such as the 4 GB Gigabyte Windforce 2X, [1024 RON at dc-shop.ro][5]. The two cards trade blows, and the only reason I've recommended the Nitro R9 380 is because it was a top-of-the-line model on sale right now for fairly cheap. You'd probably be able to overclock more with the GTX 960, and the lower power consumption will save money in the long run, but really, it's up to personal preference. The 960 doesn't have a VGA port either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really wanted to play at max settings at 1080p though, consider spending a bit more and get a R9 390, such as the 8 GB Sapphire Nitro Tri-X, [1569.99 RON at Emag.ro][6]. It would easily handle any current game on your monitor, even with the eye candy right up. Even if you decided to get 2 more monitors to play triple monitor (exactly between the number of pixels of QHD (2x) and UHD (4x)), it [would still meet your FPS requirements with ease.][7] Be warned though, this card can draw almost 350 W of power! If you don't want or need a GPU this powerful, I suggest you recycle some of your budget. An extra 100 for the CPU and 300 for the SSD should get you some better options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.emag.ro/placa-video-sapphire-radeon-r9-380-nitro-4gb-gddr5-256-bit-11242-13-20g/pd/D6RTZYBBM/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/luke-hill/sapphire-r9-380-nitro-4gb-review/all/1/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-radeon-r9-390x-r9-380-r7-370,4178-6.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.eteknix.com/sapphire-nitro-r9-380-4gb-graphics-card-review/13/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.dc-shop.ro/placi-video/placa-video-gigabyte-geforce-gtx-960-oc-rev.-1.0-4gb-ddr5-128bit-l/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.emag.ro/placa-video-sapphire-radeon-r9-390-nitro-tri-x-8gb-gddr5-512-bit-11244-01-20g/pd/DW55XYBBM/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/sapphire-nitro-r9-390-8g-d5,4245.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="a764d86a-7f4f-497f-a1f0-946b0602009b" CreationDate="2015-12-18T16:12:30.490" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/6364/what-cnc-control-board-suits-my-needs" />
  <row Id="5712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="d254cbb6-fb84-4707-af6b-968edc8d5804" CreationDate="2015-11-30T20:07:16.093" UserDisplayName="Sam W" Text="I'm currently piecing together a shopping list to build an XY CNC machine. I'm looking at using this [motor kit][1] that provides NEMA 34 stepper motors with drivers. Where I get confused is on what controls the drivers; I know I need a motion controller to control the stepper drivers, or at least that's what I've gathered. I'm only looking to feed the motion controller G-code commands from a custom application. The [Tiny-G][2] board is exactly what I'm looking for but only supports smaller motors as far as I can tell. Is there a stepper motion control board that accepts just G-code over a USB connection that is compatible with the stepper drivers that come with the kit? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/3-axis-85nm1204ozin-nema-34-stepper-motor-ma860h-driverr-kit-for-cnc-router-p-306.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.synthetos.com/project/tinyg/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="d254cbb6-fb84-4707-af6b-968edc8d5804" CreationDate="2015-11-30T20:07:16.093" UserDisplayName="Sam W" Text="What CNC control board suits my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="d254cbb6-fb84-4707-af6b-968edc8d5804" CreationDate="2015-11-30T20:07:16.093" UserDisplayName="Sam W" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="3c171bc2-7a35-4302-9e4a-d1e959505e38" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:33:29.607" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5716" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="5938c50b-d818-4bfe-a9c7-2935a205e1f8" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:33:29.607" UserId="8" Comment="14" />
  <row Id="5717" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="e38e9e32-b015-40e2-b88a-9da72523af34" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:10.673" UserId="8" Comment="Brought clearly on-topic" Text="I'm currently piecing together a shopping list to build an XY CNC (computer numerical control - basically computerized milling and production) machine. I'm looking at using this [motor kit][1] that provides NEMA 34 stepper motors with drivers. Where I get confused is on what controls the drivers; I know I need a motion controller to control the stepper drivers, or at least that's what I've gathered. I'm only looking to feed the motion controller G-code commands from a custom application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a stepper motion control board for the CNC machine that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can be controlled by sending G-code from a custom application&#xD;&#xA;- accepts said G-code over a USB connection&#xD;&#xA;- is compatible with NEMA 34 stepper motor drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, the [Tiny-G][2] board is exactly what I'm looking for but only supports smaller motors as far as I can tell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/3-axis-85nm1204ozin-nema-34-stepper-motor-ma860h-driverr-kit-for-cnc-router-p-306.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.synthetos.com/project/tinyg/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="e38e9e32-b015-40e2-b88a-9da72523af34" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:10.673" UserId="8" Comment="Brought clearly on-topic" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cnc-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5719" PostHistoryTypeId="15" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="221069f9-e5ec-4e37-9e1e-1c21bc548c06" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:25.000" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5720" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1589" RevisionGUID="d7bd3607-281e-4cdf-8c2f-321ebca88a06" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:25.000" UserId="8" Comment="14" />
  <row Id="5721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1590" RevisionGUID="a7883d96-8c5d-4bde-a02b-691112816bd2" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:57.087" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1591" RevisionGUID="380fa8bd-a8ad-4e47-9cd9-5117342bfac8" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:57.087" UserId="8" Text="For use on questions about circuit boards used as &quot;motherboards&quot; for CNC machines." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1592" RevisionGUID="6f12ed64-c650-4f21-99d6-311edcbeba6d" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:22:31.877" UserId="1294" Text="The Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro has a rather unique placement of its internal cooling fan: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fan is *not* located on the bottom of the machine under the keyboard like most laptops (which most external cooling fans are designed for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, the internal cooling fan is located at very edge of the laptop where the lid is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to use my Yoga 2 Pro with the average cooling fan, I have to put my laptop in the *middle* of the fan, which is very near unusable unless I use an external mouse and keyboard because the laptop would be tilting precariously on the fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know if there exists a general purpose external cooling fan designed for the Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro, given its particular choice of internal fan placement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1592" RevisionGUID="6f12ed64-c650-4f21-99d6-311edcbeba6d" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:22:31.877" UserId="1294" Text="Does there exist a general purpose external cooling fan designed for the Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1592" RevisionGUID="6f12ed64-c650-4f21-99d6-311edcbeba6d" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:22:31.877" UserId="1294" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1592" RevisionGUID="4b101528-0268-4af1-aa94-e92730562c42" CreationDate="2015-12-19T00:51:39.600" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="9e5548e4-d91d-489f-b34f-0b613d5d9995" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:40:17.017" UserId="1275" Comment="edited title; added 306 characters in body" Text="Computer-vision hardware for the blind and deaf blind" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="9e5548e4-d91d-489f-b34f-0b613d5d9995" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:40:17.017" UserId="1275" Comment="edited title; added 306 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a hardware device which will allow a blind person to simply navigate in 3D space alerting to object types and giving options for feet and hands (feet first). Use a special five-stop hardware device on the chest or voice to switch around the following, from top to bottom in the case of the switch-stop-black-plastic-vertical-bar-on-the-chest:&#xA;&#xA;A. Sphere-navigate&#xA;B. Tree-navigate&#xA;C. 3D-subnavigate&#xA;D. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xA;&#xA;A. Sphere-navigate: SAY FORWARD: allow user to spin on the legs, when possible, without getting hurt. Alert to everything in the font part of the vision sphere, or whatever is considered in front. SAY TURN LEFT: alert to what is in immediate epsilon_N wide area on the left of the semicircle (eg.: door, bed, floor, table. Pick an &quot;on the median&quot;, safe-spot on the floor. Announce the directed distance 3-distance Euclidean n-tuple saying how far each of the two hands is from the &quot;¿safe spot&quot;?.&#xA;&#xA;Say: EYE position. This can be, upper part of the head, penis (here you will need a sound that changes continuousky as tge blind user has /?goes through an ere tion), left hand, right hand, foot, leg, etc (elbow or whatever).&#xA;&#xA;B. Tree-navigate.&#xA;&#xA;In the current &quot;front area&quot;, allow the user to navigate by voice: FRONT,BACK,PREVIOUS (for the perevious child, for the hand's field of view in front of the left hand or ither eye field of view).&#xA;&#xA;This interface could also be used for a dog, pig, turtle, dolphin, whale, bird, beaver, or other animal.&#xA;&#xA;C. 3D-subnavigate: Ok, now we can &quot;see&quot; the tree. Decide whenever you want to navigate along the &quot;safe vector&quot;. A &quot; wave voice/sound&quot; will use separate /&quot;components&quot;\, to announce your hand increment (0,0,0) -&gt; (N_A,N_B,N_C) (and also hand speed as the third coordinate of the tuple. I don't have a clue about how the blind person would, perceive the difference between relative displacement and speed, along this operation.&#xA;&#xA;Ok. The speaker has SAID MOVE HAND to perform thid op. Just like the *EYE can be anywhere, the *HAND can beany where as well. Don't confuse the abstract eye and hand with the physical parts of the body announced by the machine with continuous names, with a granularity of skin location names akin to the level of detail found in advanced medical anatomy books.&#xA;&#xA;D. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xA;&#xA;Each eye can at the same time be hand. There is a slight problem, because when one HAND moves, the other epsilon-adjacent HANDS also move.&#xA;&#xA;Object appearance (eg. User turns on the tap, thus changing the tree, an alert will be given, etc.).&#xA;&#xA;Also, turn on the tap and the water appears is an instantaneous appearance. An object entering the room is a continuous appearance.&#xA;&#xA;If the blind person was also deaf..., place a pressure/heat/shape sensor in their mouth so they can feel everything inclusive of the voice commands (use buttons on the chest, but then they could hurt their hands in getting back to the &quot;root-node controls, however many there could be on the chest).&#xA;&#xA;To summarize, I want to know what advanced sensor-suits or computer-vision capable equipment could allow a blind or deaf blind person to navigate therough space in such a way that they woukd be aware of their visual surroundings including object and object part positions and navigate safely through these." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1594" RevisionGUID="a2ab329c-2cee-469c-91e5-ec55ff508e02" CreationDate="2015-12-19T04:20:50.803" UserId="106" Text="Finally, I opted for a different model, because it seems to have better support for Japanese language (which I also needed). However, for more general cases I think @Andy's answer is the best choice.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I bought this Japanese Bluetooth wireless trackball keyboard: [Miyoshi's TK-BT01][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00GM5VMPY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/j8idn.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1595" RevisionGUID="cadd8c78-cdf6-47ff-a892-58ecd6390929" CreationDate="2015-12-19T13:13:10.533" UserId="1135" Text="**AKG Y50** are your friends:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Detacheable cable&#xD;&#xA; - low price ~100€&#xD;&#xA; - dedicated, clear sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - comfortable even for longer use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="8dc64603-3409-4f9f-b672-302d9af865cb" CreationDate="2015-12-19T14:42:35.517" UserId="1297" Text="SanDisk Internal SSD 120GB 2.5-Inch SDSSDA-120G-G25 costs Rs. 3600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sandisk SSD 128gb SATA 2.5, Z400s costs Rs. 3800&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SanDisk 128GB SDSSDP-128G-G25 cost Rs. 3900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 850 EVO 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E120B/AM) - Costs Rs. 4800&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of now I have a old 500GB seagate HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new games are pretty big and system is taking a lot of time to load them (also going for a nwe graphic card since my 4670 got fried few days back).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My doubt in judging them is samsung is costly and has 520mbps write speed, and others have around 180mbps odd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some SSDs are slower than HDD when writting small files -do any of the above fall under such categories?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I have to go with one of them - which is worthy?  I will not upgrade my pc for another 4 -5 years (atleast not my HDD) -I have plenty of room in my external HDD so place is of no issue - Just 128GB is sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice - SSD (flash and DRAM terms are confusing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My mother board is old and will not change it yet since it is working great.&#xD;&#xA;MB model Asus MT7019015303817." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="8dc64603-3409-4f9f-b672-302d9af865cb" CreationDate="2015-12-19T14:42:35.517" UserId="1297" Text="SSD / HDD choice when write speed is slow - developer workstation and for games" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="8dc64603-3409-4f9f-b672-302d9af865cb" CreationDate="2015-12-19T14:42:35.517" UserId="1297" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="65362feb-44c7-4c40-be62-dd5c11c08f16" CreationDate="2015-12-19T15:03:35.503" UserId="1297" Comment="added 253 characters in body" Text="SanDisk Internal SSD 120GB 2.5-Inch SDSSDA-120G-G25 costs Rs. 3600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sandisk SSD 128gb SATA 2.5, Z400s costs Rs. 3800&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SanDisk 128GB SDSSDP-128G-G25 cost Rs. 3900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 850 EVO 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E120B/AM) - Costs Rs. 4800&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of now I have a old 500GB seagate HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new games are pretty big and system is taking a lot of time to load them (also going for a nwe graphic card since my 4670 got fried few days back).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My doubt in judging them is samsung is costly and has 520mbps write speed, and others have around 180mbps odd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some SSDs are slower than HDD when writting small files -do any of the above fall under such categories?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I have to go with one of them - which is worthy?  I will not upgrade my pc for another 4 -5 years (atleast not my HDD) -I have plenty of room in my external HDD so place is of no issue - Just 128GB is sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice - SSD (flash and DRAM terms are confusing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My mother board is old and will not change it yet since it is working great.&#xD;&#xA;MB model Asus MT7019015303817.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another choice: Transcend Ultra 120GB 2.5-inch Solid State Drive with DRAM&#xD;&#xA;64 MB onboard cache/RAID support&#xD;&#xA;Read Speed: Up to 230 Mbps and write speed: Up to 180Mbps&#xD;&#xA;MTBF 1.5 million hours&#xD;&#xA;Costs Rs. 5000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around Rs. 4500 -Rs. 5000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="3c224e8a-e623-4f24-a893-d498a9b5ac7a" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:11:40.443" UserId="1184" Comment="added values in dollars " Text=" - SanDisk Internal SSD 120GB 2.5-Inch SDSSDA-120G-G25 costs Rs. 3600 (~$53)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sandisk SSD 128gb SATA 2.5, Z400s costs Rs. 3800 (~$56)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SanDisk 128GB SDSSDP-128G-G25 cost Rs. 3900 (~$58)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung 850 EVO 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E120B/AM) - Costs Rs. 4800 (~$71)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of now I have a old 500GB seagate HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new games are pretty big and system is taking a lot of time to load them (also going for a nwe graphic card since my 4670 got fried few days back).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My doubt in judging them is samsung is costly and has 520mbps write speed, and others have around 180mbps odd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some SSDs are slower than HDD when writting small files -do any of the above fall under such categories?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I have to go with one of them - which is worthy?  I will not upgrade my pc for another 4 -5 years (atleast not my HDD) -I have plenty of room in my external HDD so place is of no issue - Just 128GB is sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice - SSD (flash and DRAM terms are confusing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My mother board is old and will not change it yet since it is working great.&#xD;&#xA;MB model Asus MT7019015303817.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another choice: Transcend Ultra 120GB 2.5-inch Solid State Drive with DRAM&#xD;&#xA;64 MB onboard cache/RAID support&#xD;&#xA;Read Speed: Up to 230 Mbps and write speed: Up to 180Mbps&#xD;&#xA;MTBF 1.5 million hours&#xD;&#xA;Costs Rs. 5000 (~$74)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around Rs. 4500 - Rs. 5000 ($67 - $75)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5742" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1596" RevisionGUID="3c224e8a-e623-4f24-a893-d498a9b5ac7a" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:11:40.443" Comment="Proposed by 1184 approved by 1297 edit id of 340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="0c961ee7-5923-42db-9456-68ed60f92d56" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:26:05.067" UserId="853" Text="I didn't use any AMD processor before . So things getting confusing for me . Someone is going to gift me a laptop . it has a AMD A10 processor  [here is the full specification][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a developer , I have to use software like netbeans , android studio simultaneously . So my question is will this laptop  fulfill my requirements . Or should I ask a different one which has intel core i7 processor inside , something like [this laptop][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the first laptop(AMD processor inside) is enough for my workload , then I won't tell him to change  otherwise I have to tell him to change the laptop . What should I do ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.91mobiles.com/dell-15-5555-x560583in9-amd-quad-core-a10-8-gb-1-tb-windows-8-1-laptop-price-in-india-81917&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ryanscomputers.com/Dell-Inspiro-7952" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="0c961ee7-5923-42db-9456-68ed60f92d56" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:26:05.067" UserId="853" Text="AMD Quad-Core A10-8700P vs Intel core i7 5500u" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="0c961ee7-5923-42db-9456-68ed60f92d56" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:26:05.067" UserId="853" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="2a0150e5-aa83-430a-86f2-b4407a300d95" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:09:43.617" UserId="45" Comment="fixed a bunch of typos; better formatting which should improve readability with screen readers; removed penis silliness (makes it accessible to twice the target audience)" Text="I am looking for a hardware device which will allow a blind person to simply navigate in 3D space alerting to object types and giving options for feet and hands (feet first). Use a special five-stop hardware device on the chest or voice to switch around the following, from top to bottom in the case of the switch-stop-black-plastic-vertical-bar-on-the-chest:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Sphere-navigate&#xD;&#xA;2. Tree-navigate&#xD;&#xA;3. 3D-subnavigate&#xD;&#xA;4. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Sphere-navigate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    * SAY “FORWARD”: allow user to spin on the legs, when possible, without getting hurt. Alert to everything in the font part of the vision sphere, or whatever is considered in front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    * SAY “TURN LEFT”: alert to what is in an immediate area on the left of a semicircle (e.g.: door, bed, floor, table). Pick an &quot;on the median&quot;, safe-spot on the floor. Announce the directed distance 3-distance Euclidean n-tuple saying how far each of the two hands is from the &quot;safe spot&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    * Say: “EYE position”. This can be, upper part of the head, left hand, right hand, foot, leg, etc (elbow or whatever).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Tree-navigate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     In the current &quot;front area&quot;, allow the user to navigate by voice: “FRONT”, “BACK”, “PREVIOUS” (for the previous child, for the hand's field of view in front of the left hand or either eye field of view).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    This interface could also be used for a dog, pig, turtle, dolphin, whale, bird, beaver, or other animal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. 3D-subnavigate: Ok, now we can &quot;see&quot; the tree. Decide whenever you want to navigate along the &quot;safe vector&quot;. A &quot;wave voice or sound&quot; will use separate &quot;components&quot;, to announce your hand increment (0,0,0) -&gt; (N_A,N_B,N_C) (and also hand speed as the third coordinate of the tuple. I don't have a clue about how the blind person would, perceive the difference between relative displacement and speed, along this operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Ok. The speaker has SAID “MOVE HAND” to perform the third operation. Just like the EYE can be anywhere, the HAND can beany where as well. Don't confuse the abstract eye and hand with the physical parts of the body announced by the machine with continuous names, with a granularity of skin location names akin to the level of detail found in advanced medical anatomy books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;D. Subobject-navigate (announce object type and navigation and subnavigation options for hands).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Each eye can at the same time be hand. There is a slight problem, because when one HAND moves, the other epsilon-adjacent HANDS also move.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Object appearance (eg. User turns on the tap, thus changing the tree, an alert will be given, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Also, turn on the tap and the water appears is an instantaneous appearance. An object entering the room is a continuous appearance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; If the blind person was also deaf..., place a pressure/heat/shape sensor in their mouth so they can feel everything inclusive of the voice commands (use buttons on the chest, but then they could hurt their hands in getting back to the &quot;root-node controls, however many there could be on the chest).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize, I want to know what advanced sensor-suits or computer-vision capable equipment could allow a blind or deaf blind person to navigate through space in such a way that they would be aware of their visual surroundings including object and object part positions and navigate safely through these." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="2a0150e5-aa83-430a-86f2-b4407a300d95" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:09:43.617" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 54, 241 edit id of 341" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1601" RevisionGUID="17365924-f784-4a6a-8a00-77633a2cb603" CreationDate="2015-12-19T23:25:23.867" UserId="1114" Text=" according to this : ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type) 64 GB Memory Types DDR4 1333/1600/2133 Max # of Memory Channels 4 Max Memory Bandwidth 68 GB/s ECC Memory Supported ‡ No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I won't be able to use 128gig." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1602" RevisionGUID="d5aa3c82-c52e-4ff7-b383-cd8816c3880a" CreationDate="2015-12-20T00:56:12.253" UserId="711" Text="I do tech support for a web application.  Recently, a dealer/client wanted for us to specify minimum requirements for Microsoft SQL server.  I found several articles on MSDN that had barebone requirements; essentially these were the minimum to run SQL Server itself (1ghz, 512mb RAM, -ish).  I could not find any kind of guides that said &quot;If you have X users, then you need Y RAM and CPU&quot; or anything similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My engineering department through out a single number with no respect to load, and said 4 cores and 8GB of RAM.  I know that SQL server likes its RAM, but I'm not sure how much or precisely why.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What metrics are used to determine load on SQL server?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I develop a set of minimum hardware requirements for SQL Server for any random application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as the application I support, we use SQL 2008 R2 and later; Standard or Enterprise (not Express)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1602" RevisionGUID="d5aa3c82-c52e-4ff7-b383-cd8816c3880a" CreationDate="2015-12-20T00:56:12.253" UserId="711" Text="How to determine minimum application requirements for Microsoft SQL Server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1602" RevisionGUID="d5aa3c82-c52e-4ff7-b383-cd8816c3880a" CreationDate="2015-12-20T00:56:12.253" UserId="711" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1603" RevisionGUID="58f2e287-9b79-4707-ac56-1d186593bf47" CreationDate="2015-12-20T04:50:15.120" UserId="65" Text="Estimating what you will need without having a working system to extrapolate from is very, very difficult.  If you must do so, you need to have a very well defined use case.  From that, you should be able to extrapolate the necessary tables, queries, and come up with ballpark CPU, disk size, and disk performance characteristics.&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, the way most people do it these days is they get the basic system working first, test the system with X users and then extrapolate what would be needed for Y users.  Database scale is generally fairly linear if the schema and code are written well.  Then when the use case changes, they upgrade or downgrade servers to compensate. This is where AWS and other cloud providers shine because if you're constantly changing what you need, it's much easier to switch systems if you don't own the hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1603" RevisionGUID="e3a72aea-d85e-477b-9e3d-1e41634fc356" CreationDate="2015-12-20T04:55:42.310" UserId="65" Comment="added 452 characters in body; added 27 characters in body; added 68 characters in body" Text="Estimating what you will need without having a working system to extrapolate from is very, very difficult.  If you must do so, you need to have a very well defined use case.  From that, you should be able to extrapolate the necessary tables, queries, frequency of access, etc., and come up with ballpark CPU, disk size, and disk performance characteristics.&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, the way most people do it these days is they get the basic system working first, test the system with X users and then extrapolate what would be needed for Y users.  Database scale is generally fairly linear if the schema and code are written well.  Then when the requirements change (which seems to happen much faster than servers get depreciated), they upgrade or downgrade servers to compensate. This is where AWS and other cloud providers shine because if you're constantly changing what you need, it's much easier to switch systems if you don't own the hardware.&#xA;&#xA;Here are some hints for capacity planning:&#xA;&#xA;  - If the vast majority of disk access isn't writes or your cache hit ratio is less than 99.5%, you don't have enough RAM&#xA;  - SQL server does writes in batches every minute or so.  It will use all available IOPS during that time.  The thing to look at is how long the flushing lasts.&#xA;  - Logical disk reads often appear as CPU usage (because the pages are in cache), and may indicate the need for an index" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1603" RevisionGUID="7e942d87-4c09-459f-a567-cf31756965c3" CreationDate="2015-12-20T05:02:03.087" UserId="65" Comment="added 83 characters in body; added 47 characters in body" Text="Estimating what you will need without having a working system to extrapolate from is very, very difficult.  If you must do so, you need to have a very well defined use case.  From that, you should be able to extrapolate the necessary tables, queries, frequency of access, etc., and come up with ballpark CPU, disk size, and disk performance characteristics.&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, the way most people do it these days is they get the basic system working first, test the system with X users and then extrapolate what would be needed for Y users.  Database scale is generally fairly linear if the schema and code are written well.  Then when the requirements change (which seems to happen much faster than servers get depreciated), they upgrade or downgrade servers to compensate. This is where AWS and other cloud providers shine because if you're constantly changing what you need, it's much easier to switch systems if you don't own the hardware.&#xA;&#xA;Here are some hints for capacity planning:&#xA;&#xA;  - If the vast majority of disk access isn't writes or your cache hit ratio is less than 99.5%, you don't have enough RAM.  Average Page Life is also an important metric&#xA;  - SQL server does writes in batches every minute or so.  It will max out your disk IOPS no matter how many IOPS your system has during that time.  The thing to look at is how long the flushing lasts relative to the period between the flushes&#xA;  - Logical disk reads often appear as CPU usage (because the pages are in cache), and may indicate the need for an index" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1603" RevisionGUID="2a04f6ca-9b39-46ae-8692-06ddef79a483" CreationDate="2015-12-20T05:07:29.180" UserId="65" Comment="added 348 characters in body" Text="Estimating what you will need without having a working system to extrapolate from is very, very difficult.  If you must do so, you need to have a very well defined use case.  From that, you should be able to extrapolate the necessary tables, queries, frequency of access, etc., and come up with ballpark CPU, disk size, and disk performance characteristics (IOPS and throughput).&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, the way most people do it these days is they get the basic system working first, test the system with X users and then extrapolate what would be needed for Y users.  Database scale is generally fairly linear if the schema and code are written well.  Then when the requirements change (which seems to happen much faster than servers get depreciated), they upgrade or downgrade servers to compensate. This is where AWS and other cloud providers shine because if you're constantly changing what you need, it's much easier to switch systems if you don't own the hardware.&#xA;&#xA;Here are some hints for capacity planning:&#xA;&#xA;  - If the vast majority of disk access isn't writes or your cache hit ratio is less than 99.5%, you don't have enough RAM.  Average Page Life is also an important metric&#xA;  - SQL server does writes in batches every minute or so.  It will max out your disk IOPS no matter how many IOPS your system has during that time.  The thing to look at is how long the flushing lasts relative to the period between the flushes&#xA;  - Logical disk reads often appear as CPU usage (because the pages are in cache), and may indicate the need for an index&#xA;  - Database data files should be on separate drive sets from other files and IOPS is generally the most important factor for these drives.  Temp database should probably also be on it's own drive set and IOPS is also most important here.  Log files are on yet another drive set, but throughout is most important for this set" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1604" RevisionGUID="e712d431-3939-47ae-a56a-d02ddec34756" CreationDate="2015-12-20T07:07:19.160" UserId="1300" Text="I'm seeking z170/LGA 1151 MBs for my i7 6700k CPU, and I am planning to buy 2X8GB DDR4 SDRAM. When I search it on newegg, the prices range from $50 to $200+. My questions are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) what makes the differences?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Besides the compatibility with my CPU and RAM, I only care about the performance. So would a $60 motherboard be good enough for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) I notice there is a &quot;memory standard&quot; spec, which includes 2133-3400MHZ, does this has to be correspondent to my RAM's speed? For example, if my RAM is DDR4 SDRAM 3000, then I need to buy a MB that supports 3000MHZ memory standard, right?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1604" RevisionGUID="e712d431-3939-47ae-a56a-d02ddec34756" CreationDate="2015-12-20T07:07:19.160" UserId="1300" Text="Motherboard: Which configurations really matter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1604" RevisionGUID="e712d431-3939-47ae-a56a-d02ddec34756" CreationDate="2015-12-20T07:07:19.160" UserId="1300" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1602" RevisionGUID="b4e403e8-f33f-4001-9346-7ff0a7b8db6c" CreationDate="2015-12-20T10:24:54.470" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1605" RevisionGUID="f1712f91-03e9-4908-b483-3efb6391d8bc" CreationDate="2015-12-20T15:13:54.503" UserId="912" Text="There are many chipsets with the LGA 1151 socket, including the Z170, B150, H170 etc. The only chipset that allows overclocking would be the Z170 chipset, which you should get since you are getting a overclockable CPU. The other chipsets I mentioned are cheaper (sub $100 range) but lack some of the features the Z170 has. Even with the same chipset, there are higher quality motherboards (more expensive) and lower quality motherboard (cheaper). The higher quality motherboards have more features such as better power delivery to allow more overclocking, better NICs, better sound cards, more PCIe slots, etc. The motherboard you would need would depend on what you are using it for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A $60 motherboard would be &quot;good enough&quot; for you. You would not be able to overclock if it's not a Z170 chipset (so the overclockability of your CPU is wasted), it probably doesn't have SLI and/or CrossFireX support, so you would be limited to only having one GPU. The PCIe lanes could also be slower, so higher bandwidth PCIe cards would take a performance hit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speed of the RAM doesn't have to correspond to the motherboard's rated max speed. The RAM would run at the lower speed of the two (e.g. if your RAM was 3000MHz and your board only supports max of 2400MHz, it would run at the lower of the two, which would be 2400MHz). This also means you are wasting some of the power of the RAM if you buy a lower end board. You would also want to check with your motherboard manufacturer's manual to check if the RAM is compatible with your board." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1519" RevisionGUID="f60a9def-6252-4af4-8708-ecf6edc049cf" CreationDate="2015-12-20T16:01:13.420" UserId="1221" Comment="Added more information to answer on account of recent comments." Text="Yes, OWC does in fact make such Blu-ray drives for Macs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just want read (not write) support for Blu-ray disks, there’s the [**OWC Slim 6X Portable USB 2.0 Blu-ray Reader**](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRSSBDL6X/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want both read and write support for Blu-ray disks, there’s the [**OWC Slim 6X Portable USB 2.0 Blu-ray Burner**](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRSSBDR6X/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind they use a USB 'Y'-type cable, so you’ll need two available USB ports if you want to power the drives without a separate power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:** After checking [around](http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/external-slim-blu-ray-burner-powered-by-single-usb.1409022/) a bit, it seems like while the above drives *include* a USB 'Y'-type cable, it doesn’t necessarily mean they actually *require* a USB 'Y'-type cable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; “*most give you the option for 2 incase you have a low power USB port,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with newer macs you probably don't need to use the second port.*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; *i've got an older asus external, and it works fine on one port on my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; retina mpb*”&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; “*I chatted with OWC about [this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one](http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRSSBD6X/) tonight and they&#xD;&#xA;&gt; said that it should work fine on one plug in most situations.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Unfortunately, they also confirmed my fear that if it did need the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; second plug for some reason, you'd be SOL because the Y-split only&#xD;&#xA;&gt; provides a short length of chord for each plug.*”&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, as you noted, the issue of the Y-cable’s length can be solved with an extension cable. The only remaining issue (well, not including your USB 3 requirement) would be if the USB ports on your Retina MacBook Pro provide enough power so that you’d only need one of them. According to [this](http://eshop.macsales.com/Service/Knowledgebase/Article/15/539/) page, the OWCMRSSBD6X-series (the two Slim drives I mentioned above) have a power draw of **6.3 W**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple has an extremely useful and detailed page [here](https://support.apple.com/HT204377) detailing how much power is provided by a Mac’s USB ports:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Apple computers and displays with USB 1.1 or USB 2 ports provide:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Up to 500 mA (Milliamps) at 5 V (Volts) **(that’s 2.5 W of power per port *(5 V × 0.5 A = 2.5 W)*)** to most Apple USB peripherals and all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB peripherals not made by Apple in compliance with USB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Apple computers with USB 3 ports ([using USB 3&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cables](https://support.apple.com/HT201163#3)) provide:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Up to 900 mA (milliamps) at 5 V (Volts) **(that’s 4.5 W of power per port *(5 V × 0.9 A = 4.5 W)*)** to most Apple USB peripherals and all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB peripherals not made by Apple in compliance with USB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Note: Some USB peripheral devices not manufactured by Apple may have&#xD;&#xA;&gt; unique power requirements. These may exceed the power allotment on an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; individual USB port. Those devices may require you connect them to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; multiple USB ports or may have external power sources that must be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; present for them to function.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Apple peripheral devices may request more than 500 mA (Milliamps) at 5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; V (Volts) from a port to function or to allow for faster charging.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Such Apple peripheral devices include:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Apple MacBook Air SuperDrive (when connected to supported computers)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Aluminum Wired Keyboard*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - iPod&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - iPhone&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - iPad&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; To meet requests for additional power from these Apple peripherals and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; devices, some Apple computers and displays can provide up to 1100 mA&#xD;&#xA;&gt; at 5 V **(that’s 5.5 W of power *(5 V × 1.1 A = 5.5 W)*)** through the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; port to which the Apple peripheral or device is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(That certainly explains why Apple’s External SuperDrive can be easily powered by just one port!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on that, it seems like it would be impossible to power OWC’s Slim drives with just one USB port. In fact, I’m kind of curious how it can even be powered with two! Considering it’s supposed to be a USB 2.0 device, it should only come with a USB 2.0 cable *(as mentioned in [this](https://support.apple.com/HT201163#3) Apple FAQ, you need to be using USB 3 cables (with USB 3 peripherals) to get the 400 mA increase in current over USB 2.0 cables)*. Considering that using two USB 2.0 ports will only provide 5 W of power *(2.5 W from each port)* while the OWC drives mentioned above require 6.3 W, I don’t see how they can be bus-powered (at least under USB 2.0).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ll contact OWC to find out what the discrepancy is (could be as simple as having a typo on their knowledge base page showing the power draw), but hopefully, the rest of the information here can help narrow your search down considerably." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1606" RevisionGUID="304d23e1-6a67-425c-8d45-edc20b0efcef" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:23:14.753" UserId="40" Text="I have a budget of ~10 kUSD to buy GPUs for neural network applications, mostly using Theano, Torch, TensorFlow and Caffe. Most programs I plan to run are for natural language processing. Computations are in float 32 and in CUDA. I live in the USA, and I don't pay for the electricity bills. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the graphic cards with the highest computational power / price ratio, given the above-mentioned conditions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1606" RevisionGUID="304d23e1-6a67-425c-8d45-edc20b0efcef" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:23:14.753" UserId="40" Text="GPU for deep learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1606" RevisionGUID="304d23e1-6a67-425c-8d45-edc20b0efcef" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:23:14.753" UserId="40" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1606" RevisionGUID="342dc714-b87f-4f67-9b85-dca88f2cad48" CreationDate="2015-12-21T00:29:48.433" UserId="40" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I have a budget of ~10 kUSD to buy GPUs for neural network applications, mostly using Theano, Torch, TensorFlow and Caffe. Most programs I plan to run are for natural language processing. Computations are in float 32 and in CUDA. I live in the USA, and I don't pay for the electricity bills. The GPUs will be mounted to some computers running Ubuntu 14.04.3 LTS x64.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the graphic cards with the highest computational power / price ratio, given the above-mentioned conditions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1607" RevisionGUID="c1b3f38b-6080-45a4-8fc6-9776c463dcaf" CreationDate="2015-12-21T05:41:10.483" UserId="971" Text="I'd say you go with the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that the 960 is a newer architecture, and is still going to be available if you decide you're going to add another 960 in SLI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bus memory is a consideration, but the way you're seeing it is not correct; there's more to it than that. For example, if you have a bus width that is less, but the memory tech is older (DDR3 instead of GDDR5), it automatically cuts the total memory bandwidth you gain in half. Depending on the memory **clock**, you may actually get worse performance with the DDR3 card, even though it has more bus width.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I agree the bus width of the 960 is lower, and both cards are GDDR5. But the newer Maxwell architecture of the 960 utilizes a color-compression technology that increases its effective bandwidth by around 28%, bringing it closer to the 760's. It also uses a newer anti-aliasing algorithm(FXAA) that is far less resource-intensive than MSAA that you'll have to use on the 760, again requiring lesser memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I ask you this: what is the resolution you're using on your monitor? If it's 1920x1080(i.e. 1080p), the 960 will handle it irrespective of all these theoretical specifications. It's been designed to run modern games with that resolution in mind, and it's also more power efficient(176 W of power for the 760 vs 120 W for the 960), so the 760 runs 82C at full load and is loud, whereas the 960 never breaches 60 and is very quiet(both are very good things).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1607" RevisionGUID="6ea9aa25-2a66-4111-9704-32df962ba4c4" CreationDate="2015-12-21T05:52:50.410" UserId="971" Comment="edited body" Text="I'd say you go with the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that the 960 is a newer architecture, and is still going to be available if you decide you're going to add another 960 in SLI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bus memory is a consideration, but the way you're seeing it is not correct; there's more to it than that. For example, if you have a bus width that is more, but the memory tech is older (DDR3 instead of GDDR5), it automatically cuts the total memory bandwidth you gain in half. Depending on the memory **clock**, you may actually get worse performance with the DDR3 card, even though it has more bus width.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I agree the bus width of the 960 is lower, and both cards are GDDR5. But the newer Maxwell architecture of the 960 utilizes a color-compression technology that increases its effective bandwidth by around 28%, bringing it closer to the 760's. It also uses a newer anti-aliasing algorithm(FXAA) that is far less resource-intensive than MSAA that you'll have to use on the 760, again requiring lesser memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I ask you this: what is the resolution you're using on your monitor? If it's 1920x1080(i.e. 1080p), the 960 will handle it irrespective of all these theoretical specifications. It's been designed to run modern games with that resolution in mind, and it's also more power efficient(176 W of power for the 760 vs 120 W for the 960), so the 760 runs 82C at full load and is loud, whereas the 960 never breaches 60 and is very quiet(both are very good things).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1607" RevisionGUID="c06bbe9c-75ce-4b92-a6d3-b032d64939dd" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:29:05.937" UserId="971" Comment="edited body" Text="I'd say you go with the 960.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that the 960 is a newer architecture, and is still going to be available if you decide you're going to add another 960 in SLI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bus memory is a consideration, but the way you're seeing it is not correct; there's more to it than that. For example, if you have a bus width that is more, but the memory tech is older (DDR3 instead of GDDR5), it automatically cuts the total memory bandwidth you gain in half. Depending on the memory **clock**, you may actually get worse performance with the DDR3 card, even though it has more bus width.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I agree the bus width of the 960 is lower, and both cards are GDDR5. But the newer Maxwell architecture of the 960 utilizes a color-compression technology that increases its effective bandwidth by around 28%, bringing it closer to the 760's. It also uses a newer anti-aliasing algorithm(MFAA) that is far less resource-intensive than MSAA that you'll have to use on the 760, again requiring lesser memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I ask you this: what is the resolution you're using on your monitor? If it's 1920x1080(i.e. 1080p), the 960 will handle it irrespective of all these theoretical specifications. It's been designed to run modern games with that resolution in mind, and it's also more power efficient(176 W of power for the 760 vs 120 W for the 960), so the 760 runs 82C at full load and is loud, whereas the 960 never breaches 60 and is very quiet(both are very good things).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1571" RevisionGUID="412b81dc-7c05-4f25-aaae-311c50414a40" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:41:29.677" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="1ee09acb-30e9-4fa4-9eca-2e3a8cb9ee9a" CreationDate="2015-12-21T10:03:57.757" UserId="531" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up a Crossover 289K, sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've *not* gotten a chance to test this with a HDMI 2.0 source (I should, but I'm lazy) and I'm still in the process of caliberating it manually - Its acceptable out of the box but I'm trying to match it with my other monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 1x HDMI 2.0 (which differenciates this from older models) 2 HDMI ports (one of which does MHL) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="dd91761e-9645-4180-aa91-a22590441cff" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:30:41.420" UserId="951" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, [3.1k $][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [K80][5]: for servers,  [peek for float: 8 Tflops][6],  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10]&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12]&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but(!) only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy a customer grade cost efficient GPU, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, plese consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="ba7741dc-3574-462b-98de-dcbde3995dd1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:39:11.717" UserId="951" Comment="added 259 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, [3.1k $][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [K80][5]: for servers,  [peek for float: 8 Tflops][6],  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10]&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12]&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but(!) only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy a customer grade cost efficient GPU, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, plese consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xenon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="2340b5ab-c244-4ecc-a8ab-03173946f7e3" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:44:47.600" UserId="951" Comment="added 259 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, 12 GB, 2880 CUDA cores, [3.1k $][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [K80][5]: for servers,  [peek for float: 8 Tflops][6], 24 GB,  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10]&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12]&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: for desktops, peek for float:[6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy a customer grade cost efficient GPU, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, plese consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xeon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="68e65d6d-e59f-49aa-bcb1-92c2befc470d" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:53:15.830" UserId="1261" Text="I have GTX 670 in my system where I need to do Matlab computation. &#xD;&#xA;I am thinking which GPU could be better. &#xD;&#xA;This benchmark [here][1] shows that GTX 670 is better in some conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 670 supports Cuda 3, while GTX 750 Ti supports CUDA 5. &#xD;&#xA;This is the main reason why I am thinking the update.&#xD;&#xA;However, I have no experience how much this difference could be in reliability, accuracy and computation speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you decide which GPU is better for scientific computation in Matlab?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-750-Ti-vs-Nvidia-GTX-670/2187vs2181" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="68e65d6d-e59f-49aa-bcb1-92c2befc470d" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:53:15.830" UserId="1261" Text="GeForce GTX 750 Ti vs 670 in Matlab?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="68e65d6d-e59f-49aa-bcb1-92c2befc470d" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:53:15.830" UserId="1261" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="136e61ce-cc91-46d4-91b1-063bc50b0ace" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:54:05.243" UserId="951" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, 12 GB, 2880 CUDA cores, [3.1k $][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K80][5]: for servers, peek for float: [8 Tflops][6], 24 GB,  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10]&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12]&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: for desktops, peek for float: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy GTX 960 or 970, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited, and this cards will do just fine for CUDA learning. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, plese consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xeon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="043b6d49-85f0-47a2-93ba-cbbb129dc6ce" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:17:55.977" UserId="951" Comment="added 383 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, 12 GB, 2880 CUDA cores, [3.1k $][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K80][5]: for servers, peek for float: [8 Tflops][6], 24 GB,  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10]&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12]&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: for desktops, peek for float: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy GTX 960 or 970, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited, and this cards will do just fine for CUDA learning. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, plese consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xeon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]** Please note, that switching from CPU based floating point arithmetic to GPU enchanced, is a change in quality, [almost one order of magnitute][16], and will be very pronounced and noticible, but switching from ex. Tesla K20 to Tesla K40 will be just a change in quantity (K80 is just two K40 bundled together), so if you go for speed to price ratio, go with cheapest GPU acceleration, that'll work for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="71200ad3-9e95-4516-8b2b-7f45cf74c682" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:29:08.223" UserId="951" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'computing ability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision (CC stands for Compute Capability):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3], CC: 3.5&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, 12 GB, 2880 CUDA cores, [3.1k $][4], CC: 3.5&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K80][5]: for servers, peek for float: [8 Tflops][6], 24 GB,  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7], CC: 3.7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: for desktops, peek for float: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy GTX 960 or 970, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited, and this cards will do just fine for CUDA learning. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, the calculations will go 24/7, consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xeon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]** Please note, that switching from CPU based floating point arithmetic to GPU enchanced, is a change in quality, [almost one order of magnitute][16], and will be very pronounced and noticible, but switching from ex. Tesla K20 to Tesla K40 will be just a change in quantity (K80 is just two K40 bundled together), so if you go for speed to price ratio, go with cheapest GPU acceleration, that'll work for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1609" RevisionGUID="165b58db-aae5-41c6-bff7-77d0103bc54e" CreationDate="2015-12-21T21:35:13.270" UserId="951" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I haven't personally used CUDA for this, though I am planning to. From my research I concluded, that you for sure want to have 'Computing Capability' at least equal to 3.5, as some libraries requre it already. The (tough to find) list of computing capability is under [this link][1]. From this list one can conclude, that having GTX 980 or Titan (both 5.2 score) is as good as you can get, but note, that if you are buing a graphics card *only* for this, Nvidia has an answer for professional and academic use named Tesla - it's just a computing box, far from graphics card (it has no display ports even!), costs from 3k $ for K20, to 5k $ for K80 model, and is a behemoth:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick comparision (CC stands for Compute Capability):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla K20][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 3.52 Tflops, 5 GB, 2496 CUDA cores, [2.9 k $][3], CC: 3.5&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K40][2]: for desktops, peek for float: 4.29 Tflops, 12 GB, 2880 CUDA cores, [3.1k $][4], CC: 3.5&#xD;&#xA; - [Tesla  K80][5]: for servers, peek for float: [8 Tflops][6], 24 GB,  4992 CUDA Cores, [5k $][7], CC: 3.7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and customer grade, most popular and new graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX960][8]: for desktops, peek for float: [2.3 Tflops][9], 2 or 4 GB, 1024 CUDA cores, [200$][10], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA; - [GTX980][11]: for desktops, peek for float: [4.61 Tflops][9], 4 GB, 2048 CUDA cores, [500$][12], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA; - [Titan X][13]: for desktops, peek for float: [6.1 Tflops][14], 12 GB, 3072 CUDA cores, [1000$][15], CC: 5.2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also see [comparision on wccftech][16].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To conclude: the commercial grade GPU seem to be more cost efficient, but only when we compare the specs. There can be other trade-offs, I am not awere of. Thus, I cannot confidently say &quot;go with customer grade&quot;, but I can tell you what I would (will) do - I will buy GTX 960 or 970, because I plan on gaming and I'm quite cost limited, and this cards will do just fine for CUDA learning. If you buy for an institution, do not plan gaming, the calculations will go 24/7, consider the academic grade Teslas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you'll be interested in boosting your 'conventional' integer based processing power on a high-end computation server, you may want to look up [Xeon phi][17]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]** Please note, that switching from CPU based floating point arithmetic to GPU enchanced, is a change in quality, [almost one order of magnitute][16], and will be very pronounced and noticible, but switching from ex. Tesla K20 to Tesla K40 will be just a change in quantity (K80 is just two K40 bundled together), so if you go for speed to price ratio, go with cheapest GPU acceleration, that'll work for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-gpus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-workstations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132008&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132015&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-introduces-tesla-k80-gk210-gpus-worlds-fastest-accelerator-29-tflops-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814132041&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-960/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-960-2GB-Review-GM206-199&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600537575&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?N=100007709%20600536050&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Submit=ENE&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series#Products&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=Titan%20X&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-tesla-k80-gk210duo-graphics-card-heading-professional-market-features-2-tflops-double-precision-compute/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/xeon/xeon-phi-detail.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1611" RevisionGUID="8c74bc0e-ee54-4da9-b81e-faad02391e2c" CreationDate="2015-12-22T00:42:51.480" UserId="1300" Text="The motherboard I am looking at is [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130892][1], which supports SATAe. This is a new term to me. I've done some research and am only able to understand that SATAe can make the R/W of my SSD faster. In the video that I watched about SATAe, a PCI card is introduced, I am not sure what it has to do with SATAe, and wonder whethere I need to buy additional gears to make the best of SATAe. Or, does the MB has a SATAe port where I can simply connect my SSD to it?(Assume my SSD support SATAe)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130892" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1611" RevisionGUID="8c74bc0e-ee54-4da9-b81e-faad02391e2c" CreationDate="2015-12-22T00:42:51.480" UserId="1300" Text="Do I need to buy additional devices to make the best of SATA express?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1611" RevisionGUID="8c74bc0e-ee54-4da9-b81e-faad02391e2c" CreationDate="2015-12-22T00:42:51.480" UserId="1300" Text="&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="29fce7d4-e4df-4f5d-a1a3-d2448571c50d" CreationDate="2015-12-22T01:08:00.727" UserId="1300" Text="When I am looking at the memory standard specification of MOBOs, almost every number except 2133 has a asterisk next to it indicating &quot;overlock&quot;. I've never done any overlock in my life so I am kind of in over my head. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) I am planning to buy a RAM with 3000MHZ, do I need to overlock anything to make the best of it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) [This MOBO][1] seems to be the only one without asterisks to the memory standards, or does it mean anything above 2133 is &quot;overlocked&quot;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130875" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="29fce7d4-e4df-4f5d-a1a3-d2448571c50d" CreationDate="2015-12-22T01:08:00.727" UserId="1300" Text="Memory standards and Overlock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="29fce7d4-e4df-4f5d-a1a3-d2448571c50d" CreationDate="2015-12-22T01:08:00.727" UserId="1300" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1613" RevisionGUID="dbab1254-b5f5-4916-b59f-c8a70358235d" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:29:33.240" UserId="912" Text="To use SATA Express, you would need to use a SSD that supports SATA Express. I'm currently not aware of a SSD that supports SATA Express. It does have a much higher theoretical speed than SATA and would be good for SSDs. I would still recommend a SSD through PCIe or M.2 (which uses PCIe internally). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="053a5704-6781-40bc-a124-83829757e2ce" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:43:49.493" UserId="912" Comment="corrected some spelling" Text="When I am looking at the memory standard specification of motherboard, almost every number except 2133 has a asterisk next to it indicating &quot;overclock&quot;. I've never done any overclock in my life so I am kind of in over my head. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) I am planning to buy a RAM with 3000MHZ, do I need to overclock anything to make the best of it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) [This motherboard][1] seems to be the only one without asterisks to the memory standards, or does it mean anything above 2133 is &quot;overclocked&quot;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130875" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="053a5704-6781-40bc-a124-83829757e2ce" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:43:49.493" Comment="Proposed by 912 approved by 1300 edit id of 343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="634a93de-dd49-4621-b304-e06f750b5c14" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:44:08.390" UserId="1300" Comment="edited title" Text="Memory standards and Overclock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1614" RevisionGUID="922f9295-c80d-4d50-bd93-92cd0110214b" CreationDate="2015-12-22T02:51:08.077" UserId="912" Text="What you are saying is not overclocking. Overclocking is pushing a device over it's specified limits, so if you made the 3000MHz RAM sticks run at 4000MHz, then it would be overclocked. Motherboards will run all DDR4 RAM at 2133MHz (base speed for DDR4) to improve compatibility. To run RAM at their specified speed you would need to enable XMP (Extreme Memory Profile) in the BIOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To choose for RAM with your motherboard, check with the manual of your motherboard for the specific model of your RAM for compatibility. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1612" RevisionGUID="0267bb05-18cf-4912-b3a2-8b962a5fd24b" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:59:04.833" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="5817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="9b21d902-1513-4114-8714-4b54fd0dafcc" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:56:23.930" UserId="1317" Text="i'am making a BLE scanner to control locations of my devices.&#xD;&#xA;I have scanner working and able to scan BLE devices, but i can't decice would should i buy (i need 150. of them).&#xD;&#xA;I just need simplicity and low power consumption. Only thing which i will scan is MAC adress, so i don't need any other features. &#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on eBay, aliexpress and few more shops, but i don't exactly know to formulate search.&#xD;&#xA;Can you help me, for what i should search, or even give me some specific models?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank You (and sorry for my english, i'am not from en speaking country)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="9b21d902-1513-4114-8714-4b54fd0dafcc" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:56:23.930" UserId="1317" Text="What BLE transmitter should i use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="9b21d902-1513-4114-8714-4b54fd0dafcc" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:56:23.930" UserId="1317" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="a87474df-01d1-49b3-8a46-edc3a093da8e" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:47:29.423" UserId="1184" Comment="removed thanks " Text="i'am making a BLE scanner to control locations of my devices.&#xD;&#xA;I have scanner working and able to scan BLE devices, but i can't decice would should i buy (i need 150. of them).&#xD;&#xA;I just need simplicity and low power consumption. Only thing which i will scan is MAC adress, so i don't need any other features. &#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on eBay, aliexpress and few more shops, but i don't exactly know to formulate search.&#xD;&#xA;Can you help me, for what i should search, or even give me some specific models?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(sorry for my english, i'am not from en speaking country)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="a87474df-01d1-49b3-8a46-edc3a093da8e" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:47:29.423" Comment="Proposed by 1184 approved by -1 edit id of 345" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="a33a73d8-235a-4e08-bbe3-38f937d13c8b" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:47:29.423" UserId="8" Comment="removed thanks " Text="i'am making a BLE scanner to control locations of my devices.&#xD;&#xA;I have scanner working and able to scan BLE devices, but i can't decice would should i buy (i need 150. of them).&#xD;&#xA;I just need simplicity and low power consumption. Only thing which i will scan is MAC adress, so i don't need any other features. &#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on eBay, aliexpress and few more shops, but i don't exactly know to formulate search.&#xD;&#xA;Can you help me, for what i should search, or even give me some specific models?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1444" RevisionGUID="25e4ead0-9fbb-44df-a13a-75dcd67452a2" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:57:11.713" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1591" RevisionGUID="2e34db08-fe6f-4a92-bcff-e9dd15e8079e" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:57:35.157" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="For questions about circuit boards used as &quot;motherboards&quot; for CNC machines." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1618" RevisionGUID="37c8bb2f-7754-4d79-b49e-a5d3ef656caf" CreationDate="2015-12-23T01:01:06.900" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1619" RevisionGUID="3082b30f-060f-49f8-a131-085b5fbb679b" CreationDate="2015-12-23T01:01:06.900" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices making use of an infinitely scrolling trackball for computer navigation. Do not use this tag for questions about mice with trackballs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1620" RevisionGUID="7cfa6ef9-c87a-40b6-acc5-089cc0873593" CreationDate="2015-12-23T01:02:29.997" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1621" RevisionGUID="e720243f-ac47-4527-ab2b-6130eea0e2df" CreationDate="2015-12-23T01:02:29.997" UserId="155" Text="For questions about technology that is made for or improves the process of video editing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1627" RevisionGUID="7d6962ae-fc55-4af8-b62a-5d31231fbab7" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:11:27.187" UserId="1190" Text="Ravensbuger sells [tiptoi books](https://www.ravensburger.de/shop/grosse-marken/tiptoi/index.html) which have almost invisible codes that can be read by a digital pen, which then makes sounds if you have uploaded the appropriate sounds to the pen before. The format of the codes as well as the file format for the pen [have been reverse engineered](https://github.com/entropia/tip-toi-reveng) and it's now possible to create own games etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately the quality of my laser printer is not good enough for the pen to recognize the codes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am now looking for a printer which can be used to print tiptoi compatible pages. From the last [Make magazine](http://make-magazin.de/), the requirement is just 1200 dpi, but I don't want to just buy any 1200 dpi printer. If someone could suggest a printer *and* has successfully printed tiptoi codes, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The printer should&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* print DIN A4&#xD;&#xA;* be black and white only (no color needed)&#xD;&#xA;* print in 1200 dpi or higher&#xD;&#xA;* cost less than 200 € / 220 USD&#xD;&#xA;* work with Windows (Linux support welcome)&#xD;&#xA;* have Ethernet connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1627" RevisionGUID="7d6962ae-fc55-4af8-b62a-5d31231fbab7" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:11:27.187" UserId="1190" Text="Laserprinter to print codes recognizable by tiptoi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1627" RevisionGUID="7d6962ae-fc55-4af8-b62a-5d31231fbab7" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:11:27.187" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="efdaf0bb-9bb5-45a7-a7b9-8909abe07056" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:19:33.450" UserId="1134" Comment="corrected spelling, fixed grammar" Text="I'm making a BLE scanner to control locations of my devices.&#xD;&#xA;I have a scanner working and is able to scan BLE devices, but I can't decide what I should buy (I need 150 of them).&#xD;&#xA;I just need simplicity and low power consumption. The only thing which I want to scan are MAC address, so I won't need any other features. &#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on eBay, Aliexpress and a few more shops, but I don't exactly know to formulate search.&#xD;&#xA;Could you help me with what I'm searching or give me some specific models?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="efdaf0bb-9bb5-45a7-a7b9-8909abe07056" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:19:33.450" UserId="1134" Comment="corrected spelling, fixed grammar" Text="Which BLE transmitter should i use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="efdaf0bb-9bb5-45a7-a7b9-8909abe07056" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:19:33.450" Comment="Proposed by 1134 approved by 57, 54 edit id of 348" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="f106c778-d8e8-4789-85c5-54a810bb28d5" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:10:58.463" UserId="1331" Text="I am planning to buy computer with main target for games. I was looking through fat lists of CPU, GPU and other computer parts and I am a bit confused for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The graphic card I have choosen is probably GeForce GTX 950. Then I would like to build 8 GB of RAM memory and HDD hard disk. What I am not sure is CPU and motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel i5 4460 &#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel i5 4690 &#xD;&#xA; 3. AMD FX-8300 &#xD;&#xA; 4. AMD FX-8350 &#xD;&#xA; 5. some other recommendations...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please if you may suggest me something I would be thankful.&#xD;&#xA;If someone know what motherboard will be good for this set, feel free to share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="f106c778-d8e8-4789-85c5-54a810bb28d5" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:10:58.463" UserId="1331" Text="CPU to run with GTX 950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="f106c778-d8e8-4789-85c5-54a810bb28d5" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:10:58.463" UserId="1331" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="70078195-9004-47f7-98ad-a3d0f524f197" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:42:27.080" UserId="1332" Comment="answer to comment (because I can not comment)" Text="I am planning to buy computer with main target for games. I was looking through fat lists of CPU, GPU and other computer parts and I am a bit confused for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The graphic card I have choosen is probably GeForce GTX 950. Then I would like to build 8 GB of RAM memory and HDD hard disk. What I am not sure is CPU and motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel i5 4460 &#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel i5 4690 &#xD;&#xA; 3. AMD FX-8300 &#xD;&#xA; 4. AMD FX-8350 &#xD;&#xA; 5. some other recommendations...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please if you may suggest me something I would be thankful.&#xD;&#xA;If someone know what motherboard will be good for this set, feel free to share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;answer for Peter Zhu:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer would be for gaming as I wrote.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget would be around 650 euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course there must be a card which is going to allow me access internet. I do not think that sound card is required for me as well as other extensions. I need motherboard (not specified), GPU, CPU, internet card, memory and hard disk, power and cooler system. I think that would be complete computer. Am I missing something ? The main part of computer will be CPU and GPU as I know, so I am concentrated on those parts now. I would like to have 8GB of fast memory as I heard it is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your reply :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="70078195-9004-47f7-98ad-a3d0f524f197" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:42:27.080" Comment="Proposed by 1332 approved by -1 edit id of 349" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="a64178f7-18a2-4a45-ab7c-25ac2b15dad1" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:42:27.080" UserId="155" Comment="answer to comment (because I can not comment)" Text="I am planning to buy computer with main target for games. I was looking through fat lists of CPU, GPU and other computer parts and I am a bit confused for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The graphic card I have choosen is probably GeForce GTX 950. Then I would like to build 8 GB of RAM memory and HDD hard disk. What I am not sure is CPU and motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel i5 4460 &#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel i5 4690 &#xD;&#xA; 3. AMD FX-8300 &#xD;&#xA; 4. AMD FX-8350 &#xD;&#xA; 5. some other recommendations...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please if you may suggest me something I would be thankful.&#xD;&#xA;If someone know what motherboard will be good for this set, feel free to share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer would be for gaming as I wrote. Budget would be around 650 euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course there must be a card which is going to allow me access internet. I do not think that sound card is required for me as well as other extensions. I need motherboard (not specified), GPU, CPU, internet card, memory and hard disk, power and cooler system. I think that would be complete computer. Am I missing something ? The main part of computer will be CPU and GPU as I know, so I am concentrated on those parts now. I would like to have 8GB of fast memory as I heard it is important." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1630" RevisionGUID="a8737ccf-5427-41c1-9149-54021561a32a" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:57:10.863" UserId="711" Text="I'm looking for a new or gently used phone for the first time in a while.  They all seem to look alike, and the features I care about are not well advertised.  I have an AT&amp;T Note 4, which is not able to get custom ROMs loaded to it due to a locked bootloader, though temp root has been achieved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use the T-Mobile $30 walmart plan (100 minutes, unlimited texts, 5GB high speed data) with this new-to-me phone.  T-Mobile is GSM and therefore requires a SIM card.  I'm looking for a phone for use in the USA with the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Removable battery&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot&#xD;&#xA; - The phone has 2GB or more of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - USB Host or USB OTG support&#xD;&#xA; - The phone has been rooted&#xD;&#xA; - The phone is reasonably popular and has ROMs available somewhere, preferably across all of its carriers&#xD;&#xA; - Costs $100 - $150 ish&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wish list (probably not gonna happen)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hardware keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought by now there might be midrange or budget phones that meet this spec, but I can't seem to find any.  I think my best bet is going to be eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some phones I have found that meet these criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Note 2 (eBay)&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy S3 (eBay)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These meet the criteria except for price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy S4&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Note 3&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Note 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the site [GSMArena][1] and while it has all the information I am looking for, I cannot search by removable battery nor USG Host/OTG.  There are somewhere between 70 and 200 phones for me to search through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What phones do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1630" RevisionGUID="a8737ccf-5427-41c1-9149-54021561a32a" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:57:10.863" UserId="711" Text="Android phone with removeable battery, SD Card, USB Host/OTG for ~100 - $150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1630" RevisionGUID="a8737ccf-5427-41c1-9149-54021561a32a" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:57:10.863" UserId="711" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1633" RevisionGUID="6e86d36b-83f1-446a-8209-012f44c683a8" CreationDate="2015-12-24T02:45:37.057" UserId="912" Text="If you are using this computer purely for gaming, the CPU and motherboard doesn't matter as much as the GPU. All you need is a current generation CPU with a compatible motherboard and you should spend more on the GPU. Games will run basically the same on the 4 CPU's you listed, so my recommendation would be to get the cheaper one you can find. For the Intel CPU's I would recommend a H97 or a Z97 chipset motherboard, so just buy one from a reputable brand and reviews and is budget friendly. For the AMD CPU's I would recommend a AM3+ socket motherboard, just get a cheap one from a reputable brand and reviews. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1634" RevisionGUID="fe87e5c2-9d8d-4854-b17f-940f1dcef4a5" CreationDate="2015-12-24T02:48:56.863" UserId="912" Text="The A10 laptop is enough for you. In reality, the two laptops are very similar except the Intel one may run a little faster and produce less heat and have longer battery life. For programming and normal day to day tasks, the A10 is plenty enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1635" RevisionGUID="9051fee4-2445-48ee-a5cf-0b0fc8426d69" CreationDate="2015-12-24T02:58:06.433" UserId="912" Text="SSDs should never be slower than a HDD, especially in small files. The reason is because of how they work. A HDD uses a spinning platter and a read/write head for information access where a SSD uses a controller with flash chips. When reading/writing files, the HDD has to wait for the head to align with the platter before it can be accessed, but a SSD doesn't have to wait. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my experience I would only recommend a Sandisk SSD for their reliability, and nothing else. Write speeds are usually less important than read speeds, because if you think about it, you are mostly doing reading of files rather than writing of files. The Samsung SSD will provide significant improvement over the Sandisk ones so I would recommend the Samsung one. You can also look into SSDs from other manufacturers that can be cheaper without sacrificing much performance, such as A-Data, Kingston or Crucial. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="d79083de-790d-4607-9d0f-9e099e2e4d26" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:58:27.210" UserId="175" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card for Linux gaming. I don't need flagship performance, but still high end. I want to play, for example, some of the top titles on Steam, and perhaps use the same card in Windows with an Oculus Rift kit (which requires nVidia GTX 970 or AMD 290). I want to strike a balance between price, performance, and the following must-have requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance and stability using proprietary Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with GNOME 3.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with Debian (i.e. installing proprietary drivers and keeping them up to date is straightforward and doesn't mess up the package system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have: at least decent performance and good stability with Open Source drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Related, but not the same: [this question][1] asks for graphics card recommendations for non-gaming purposes and Open Source drivers.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1273/graphics-card-that-works-well-with-linux-open-source-drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="d79083de-790d-4607-9d0f-9e099e2e4d26" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:58:27.210" UserId="175" Text="Graphics card that works well for Linux gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="d79083de-790d-4607-9d0f-9e099e2e4d26" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:58:27.210" UserId="175" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="1dfb0877-1f55-4f07-94d6-0c6f1c20af6b" CreationDate="2015-12-24T11:06:00.843" UserId="175" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card for Linux gaming. I don't need flagship performance, but still high end. I want to play, for example, some of the top titles on Steam, and perhaps use the same card in Windows with an Oculus Rift kit (which requires nVidia GTX 970 or AMD 290). I want to strike a balance between price, performance, and the following must-have requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance and stability using proprietary Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with GNOME 3.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with Debian (i.e. installing proprietary drivers and keeping them up to date is straightforward and doesn't mess up the package system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have: at least decent performance and good stability with Open Source drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Related, but not the same: [this question][1] asks for graphics card recommendations for non-gaming purposes, using Open Source drivers.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1273/graphics-card-that-works-well-with-linux-open-source-drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="47031096-04fe-48ba-bc8c-119f25ce019c" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:31:56.017" UserId="1249" Text="I am looking to improve my thin system in the graphic department so i5-5675C with it's Iris seems a good choice. Sadly, I can't find any **Thin**-mini-ITX board to support it (built on H97 or Z97). Gigabyte [boasts to have GA-H97TN][1] however after almost a year of it I am convinced this product doesn't exist - it was neither sold nor tested anywhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Is there any **Thin**-mini-ITX board supporting Broadwells (LGA1150) that can be actually bought?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please pay attention to the thin part - I'm asking about a board using external 19V laptop-style power brick, not regular ATX PSU. I am aware of pico-PSUs, that's also out of scope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5290#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="47031096-04fe-48ba-bc8c-119f25ce019c" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:31:56.017" UserId="1249" Text="Thin ITX board with Broadwell support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="47031096-04fe-48ba-bc8c-119f25ce019c" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:31:56.017" UserId="1249" Text="&lt;lga1150&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;&lt;19v&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="4e40f33f-80a2-465e-b7c0-c2e9c8a8a939" CreationDate="2015-12-24T15:47:27.430" UserId="1249" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I am looking to improve my thin system (Haswell on H81) in the graphic department so Broadwell i5-5675C with it's Iris seems a good choice. Sadly, I can't find any **Thin**-mini-ITX board to support it (built on H97 or Z97). Gigabyte [boasts to have GA-H97TN][1] however after almost a year of it I am convinced this product doesn't exist - it was neither sold nor tested anywhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Is there any **Thin**-mini-ITX board supporting Broadwells (LGA1150) that can be actually bought?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please pay attention to the thin part - I'm asking about a board using external 19V laptop-style power brick, not regular ATX PSU. I am aware of pico-PSUs, that's also out of scope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5290#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="048259b5-3812-4f55-b2e7-ca8ad6300f0d" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:17:25.313" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="I didn't use any AMD processor before, so things getting confusing for me. Someone is going to gift me a laptop. It has an AMD A10 processor  [here is the full specification][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a developer, I have to use software like NetBeans and Android Studio simultaneously. So my question is will this laptop fulfill my requirements? Or should I ask a different one which has Intel Core i7 processor inside, something like [this laptop][2]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the first laptop (AMD processor inside) is enough for my workload, then I won't tell him to change  otherwise I have to tell him to change the laptop. What should I do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.91mobiles.com/dell-15-5555-x560583in9-amd-quad-core-a10-8-gb-1-tb-windows-8-1-laptop-price-in-india-81917&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ryanscomputers.com/Dell-Inspiro-7952" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="048259b5-3812-4f55-b2e7-ca8ad6300f0d" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:17:25.313" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="AMD Quad-Core A10-8700P vs Intel Core i7 5500U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="048259b5-3812-4f55-b2e7-ca8ad6300f0d" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:17:25.313" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="048259b5-3812-4f55-b2e7-ca8ad6300f0d" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:17:25.313" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 54, 8 edit id of 351" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="a4988fb1-41f8-451e-899d-5fe69523e3ba" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:09:37.603" UserId="155" Comment="added 5 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I am looking to improve my thin system (Haswell on H81) in the graphic department so Broadwell i5-5675C with its Iris seems to be a good choice. Sadly, I can't find any **thin** mini-ITX board to support it (built on H97 or Z97). Gigabyte [boasts GA-H97TN][1], however after almost a year of it I am convinced this product doesn't exist — it was neither sold nor tested anywhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Is there any **thin** mini-ITX board supporting Broadwell (LGA1150) that can be actually bought?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please pay attention to the thin part: I'm asking about a board using an external 19V laptop-style power brick, not a regular ATX PSU. I am aware of pico-PSUs, but that's also out of scope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5290#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1638" RevisionGUID="a4988fb1-41f8-451e-899d-5fe69523e3ba" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:09:37.603" UserId="155" Comment="added 5 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1640" RevisionGUID="8dc698c6-42c3-4dfe-af0e-6e27d6f7b802" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:52:46.010" UserId="175" Text="I'm looking for an ASIO sound card which I would be using in both Windows and Linux (dual-boot). It has to work flawlessly in Windows, and I would prefer it to work fully in Linux as well. However, I can live with a card that has some features disabled in Linux, as long as basic playback and recording works, I don't have to install any proprietary drivers, it works reliably, and is hassle-free (i.e. no configuration to get regular sound working, and none of that &quot;has to boot in Windows first before it works in Linux&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a PCIe card, and although I would be using this mostly for playback, I also want recording to work. I'm using Debian. Price range: less than 150€." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1640" RevisionGUID="8dc698c6-42c3-4dfe-af0e-6e27d6f7b802" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:52:46.010" UserId="175" Text="ASIO sound card that works in Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1640" RevisionGUID="8dc698c6-42c3-4dfe-af0e-6e27d6f7b802" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:52:46.010" UserId="175" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;&lt;asio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1641" RevisionGUID="9b993683-ff3f-4d8b-82bc-d22b4d022e69" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:53:52.197" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1642" RevisionGUID="ce9a9a9c-653f-4226-90cb-a269a8a9915f" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:53:52.197" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="1984bc00-4aa8-46e9-a40a-b322b7d065fd" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:31:50.893" UserId="279" Text="I just got the Phantom NZXT case ([specs](https://www.nzxt.com/products/phantom-black-green)) for my PC. It works great for me, but this thing is so huge it barely fits in my desk! Now, it *does* fit, but since the 1/8 in audio input and USB ports are on the top, I can't plug in any of the USB ports or my headphones. Since this thing has 5 drive bays on the front, I'd like to get a USB drive bay with a 1/8 in input for my headphones. I can find plenty USB bays on google, but none of them include an aux input. If I search for &quot;USB bay with aux&quot; I get a bunch of links to amplifiers, which are clearly not what I'm looking for. Does this even exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.25&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least two USB inputs (but preferably more) and one aux input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The cheaper the better. 20 USD would be ideal, but I could go up to 35.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be nice, but 2.0 would work fine also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="1984bc00-4aa8-46e9-a40a-b322b7d065fd" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:31:50.893" UserId="279" Text="Cheap USB drive bay with aux input" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="1984bc00-4aa8-46e9-a40a-b322b7d065fd" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:31:50.893" UserId="279" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="0d5a5f60-ad6d-4fcf-bc32-d8d5a612d3b4" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:38:45.393" UserId="279" Comment="Added the desktop tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1640" RevisionGUID="7c327c2e-4603-4c79-9aaf-7ed69e8a0bbb" CreationDate="2015-12-25T18:38:30.767" UserId="199" Comment="adds clarification link" Text="I'm looking for an [ASIO sound card][1] which I would be using in both Windows and Linux (dual-boot). It has to work flawlessly in Windows, and I would prefer it to work fully in Linux as well. However, I can live with a card that has some features disabled in Linux, as long as basic playback and recording works, I don't have to install any proprietary drivers, it works reliably, and is hassle-free (i.e. no configuration to get regular sound working, and none of that &quot;has to boot in Windows first before it works in Linux&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a PCIe card, and although I would be using this mostly for playback, I also want recording to work. I'm using Debian. Price range: less than 150€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_Stream_Input/Output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1640" RevisionGUID="7c327c2e-4603-4c79-9aaf-7ed69e8a0bbb" CreationDate="2015-12-25T18:38:30.767" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 54, 214 edit id of 353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="818" RevisionGUID="77aa9985-de17-46d1-aef6-e6ee9880e9cd" CreationDate="2015-12-25T18:39:53.350" UserId="155" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="For questions about protective cases for hardware. Consider using the [enclosure] tag as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1646" RevisionGUID="3271e393-a079-4bbb-bce3-76f32459007f" CreationDate="2015-12-26T02:30:37.687" UserId="912" Text="So I need a Raspberry Pi sized (can be smaller or a bit larger) embedded computer that can output PWM signal natively. The Raspberry Pi can output PWM signals, but only with a maximum resolution of 0.1mS. For my purposes I need one with a resolution of 0.05mS or lower. It must support 500Hz of refresh rate for the PWM signal. It must also run Linux or some other system that supports Java and wireless networking. The board must also have Java support for the PWM signal. The board could be two devices working together (e.g. something like a arduino and a shield). The board must cost less than $70." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1646" RevisionGUID="3271e393-a079-4bbb-bce3-76f32459007f" CreationDate="2015-12-26T02:30:37.687" UserId="912" Text="Embedded System with PWM support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1646" RevisionGUID="3271e393-a079-4bbb-bce3-76f32459007f" CreationDate="2015-12-26T02:30:37.687" UserId="912" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="c3aba9aa-658d-4d31-9e69-1a064367fc74" CreationDate="2015-12-26T02:58:26.597" UserId="531" Comment="added 302 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up a Crossover 289K, sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've *not* gotten a chance to test this with a HDMI 2.0 source (I should, but I'm lazy) and I'm still in the process of caliberating it manually - Its acceptable out of the box but I'm trying to match it with my other monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 1x HDMI 2.0 (which differenciates this from older models) 2 HDMI ports (one of which does MHL) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. Colour caliberation went a long way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like many of these cheap screens, it seems to have some degree of backlight bleed, but this is primarily obvious in perfect darkness and I'm planning on experimenting with bias lighting to see if it helps. Would still totally recommend this as a second monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1647" RevisionGUID="4b73c88a-2da5-4e82-9b4f-15f50ac16ec0" CreationDate="2015-12-26T07:20:41.287" UserId="241" Text="It looks like your case has standard front-panel audio.  If that's correct, it makes finding compatible front-panel bays much easier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest 5.25&quot; bay I've been able to find is this [$40 bay from Kingwin][1], which in addition to two USB 3.0 ports and HD audio, has an eSATA port, an everything-under-the-sun card reader, two fan controllers, and a temperature display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, 3.5&quot; -&gt; 5.25&quot; bay adapters are cheap and easy to find.  With one of those, a [$20 3.5&quot; bay from Silverstone][2] gets you four USB 2.0 ports, HD audio, and a FireWire port (or if you don't care about looks, [$18 gets you the same thing in silver][4]); [$25 from Silverstone][3] gets you four USB 3.0 ports and HD audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with these, but Silverstone has a decent reputation, and a simple front-panel port is difficult to mess up -- it's just a bunch of wires soldered to the appropriate jack, with no electronics involved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811991007&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813999356&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999236&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813999355&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="8ab0062b-b21b-4971-8685-08011610cb93" CreationDate="2015-12-26T08:23:34.823" UserId="1345" Text="My mouse was broken a few days ago, so I need to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in the trackball and vertical mouse. Because professional writers says that is better for my hands and it's good alternative to normal mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend too much money, so I am planning to buy one of following two products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball&#xD;&#xA;- Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical Ergonomic Optical Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I usually do web surfing and I sometimes work on office suite programs, sometimes I do a little coding and rarely play games like Minecraft.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have recommendations about above two products and if you have any alternative products which you think that is better than products I gave you for the examples, please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="8ab0062b-b21b-4971-8685-08011610cb93" CreationDate="2015-12-26T08:23:34.823" UserId="1345" Text="Can I have recommendations about the trackball / mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="8ab0062b-b21b-4971-8685-08011610cb93" CreationDate="2015-12-26T08:23:34.823" UserId="1345" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1649" RevisionGUID="02d9c3b3-27bb-404a-b53b-a1846d06c8f3" CreationDate="2015-12-26T09:51:22.707" UserId="1249" Text="Vertical mouse is OK only if you **never** take your dominant hand off the mouse. Regular users tend to keep moving their hand between mouse and keyboard. Vertical mouse is very bad for this as it takes extra time and effort to both let it go and grab back again. Trackballs are bit better, but if you do follow the common click-click-type-type-click-clik pattern then regular mouse is the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The exercise of moving your hand back and forth between mouse and keyboard already is the best thing for your health. Super-ergonomic mice solve a problem that you don't have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend that you buy regular mouse (eg Logitech RX250, around $15). To be blunt: for regular users regular stuff usually works best : ) Consider better mouse when you have the money to burn. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you insist on buying one of the mentioned products then check out customer rights in your (and store) jurisdiction. In many places you are entitled to return a product bought online after a short time simply because you don't like it. This is exactly the situation lawmakers had in mind. Yet, I think you really should buy a decent, entry-level mouse first. At least as a backup plan." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="080733af-c2f8-4fb4-88b3-24a4bf0f8520" CreationDate="2015-12-27T04:38:49.287" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="My mouse was broken a few days ago, so I need to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a trackball or vertical mouse because professional writers say that is better for my hands and that it's a good alternative to a normal mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend too much money, so I am planning to buy one of the following two products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball&#xD;&#xA;- Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical Ergonomic Optical Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I usually do web surfing, and I sometimes work on office suite programs.  Sometimes I do a little coding and rarely play games like Minecraft.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have recommendations about the above two products, and if you have any alternative products that you think are better than those two, please let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="080733af-c2f8-4fb4-88b3-24a4bf0f8520" CreationDate="2015-12-27T04:38:49.287" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 1 edit id of 354" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="4e69c777-a558-4b68-90cb-83921710cbf8" CreationDate="2015-12-27T06:23:56.463" UserId="279" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="I just got the Phantom NZXT case ([specs](https://www.nzxt.com/products/phantom-black-green)) for my PC. It works great for me, but this thing is so huge it barely fits in my desk! Now, it *does* fit, but since the 1/8 in audio output and USB ports are on the top, I can't plug in any of the USB ports or my headphones. Since this thing has 5 drive bays on the front, I'd like to get a USB drive bay with a 1/8 in output for my headphones. I can find plenty USB bays on google, but none of them include an headphone port. If I search for &quot;USB bay with aux&quot; I get a bunch of links to amplifiers, which are clearly not what I'm looking for. Does this even exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.25&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least two USB inputs (but preferably more) and one headphone output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The cheaper the better. 20 USD would be ideal, but I could go up to 35.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be nice, but 2.0 would work fine also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="4e69c777-a558-4b68-90cb-83921710cbf8" CreationDate="2015-12-27T06:23:56.463" UserId="279" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="Cheap USB drive bay with headphone output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="1e862f5c-3b4d-4834-a561-51b7037e82da" CreationDate="2015-12-27T10:52:46.220" UserId="175" Comment="Add product links" Text="My mouse was broken a few days ago, so I need to buy a new mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a trackball or vertical mouse because professional writers say that is better for my hands and that it's a good alternative to a normal mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend too much money, so I am planning to buy one of the following two products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball][1]&#xD;&#xA;- [Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical Ergonomic Optical Mouse][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I usually do web surfing, and I sometimes work on office suite programs.  Sometimes I do a little coding and rarely play games like Minecraft.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have recommendations about the above two products, and if you have any alternative products that you think are better than those two, please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-roeu/product/wireless-trackball-m570&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.anker.com/product/98ANWVM-UBA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1648" RevisionGUID="1e862f5c-3b4d-4834-a561-51b7037e82da" CreationDate="2015-12-27T10:52:46.220" Comment="Proposed by 175 approved by 8 edit id of 355" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1650" RevisionGUID="b4f502c5-2d18-4cf8-9b6e-099151c61813" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:31:47.633" UserId="199" Text="I'd try these ones from eBay:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [3.5'' to 5.25'' Drive Bay Computer Case Adapter Mounting Bracket USB Hub Floppy][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [20Pin To 2 Port USB 3.0 HUB And HD Audio 3.5-in PC Floppy Front Panel Cable][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/TsN3g.jpg&quot; height=&quot;400&quot; alt=&quot;USB 3.0 and audio front panel&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/vx1MJ.jpg&quot; height=&quot;400&quot; alt=&quot;3.5 to 5.25 drive adapter&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The adapter is $3 the front panel is ~$11 although shipping usually is not too fast from Hong Kong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a similar front panel (without audio). The USB 3.0 ports work well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-to-5-25-Drive-Bay-Computer-Case-Adapter-Mounting-Bracket-USB-Hub-Floppy-/371440068107&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20Pin-To-2-Port-USB-3-0-HUB-And-HD-Audio-3-5-in-PC-Floppy-Front-Panel-Cable-/201396756621&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TsN3g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vx1MJ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1651" RevisionGUID="fc0bffdd-fa80-4c20-bfe7-c20bb5c0f1ea" CreationDate="2015-12-27T19:23:54.240" UserId="1350" Text="So I'm looking to buy a new desktop computer and I'm getting a little confused, my main concern is that it will be able to play the sim3 with multiple expansions. I found a computer that seems like it will work and can have the i5 processor vs the i3. I'm just very confused about which processor will be best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;these are the specifications of the computer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i3-4170 Dual-Core 3.7GHz processor&#xD;&#xA; - or 6th Generation Intel Core i5-6400 Quad-Core 2.7 GHz processor (turbo to 3.3GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB DDR3 &#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Integrated 4400 HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm getting confused because most comparisons I do say the i5 is better for gaming. However the i3 is much faster 3.7 GHz vs 2.7GHz(3.3 turbo) and most things I read about sims recommendations is that the the faster the processor the better. &#xD;&#xA;The i3 build is about 100 dollars cheaper as well, so I don't want to waste money on the i5 if the i3 is actually better for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm just looking for a good base computer that I can play some sims on that I can upgrade as I go. I don't really mind playing it on low settings, I just want to be able to play all my expansions I have about 5 expansions and on my current set up I can only play 2 expansions without horrible lag times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So would the i3 or the i5 be better? I really don't understand the differences.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1651" RevisionGUID="fc0bffdd-fa80-4c20-bfe7-c20bb5c0f1ea" CreationDate="2015-12-27T19:23:54.240" UserId="1350" Text="i5-6400 vs i3-4170 for playing sims 3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1651" RevisionGUID="fc0bffdd-fa80-4c20-bfe7-c20bb5c0f1ea" CreationDate="2015-12-27T19:23:54.240" UserId="1350" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1652" RevisionGUID="b963c23e-b6a7-45d2-8178-7618dd993a94" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:49:55.480" UserId="951" Text="&gt; I'm just looking for a good base computer that I can play some sims on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; that I can upgrade as I go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Than your best bet is going with latest mobo and cheapest processor for this chipset (1151 in this case, codenamed [skylake][1]). That way, in years to come, the i7-6700 processor can be much cheaper, not to mention other processors that will come for this chipset ([Cannonlake][2] and [Kaby Lake][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-6400 @ 2.70GHz has a mark of 6,517 points on [cpubenchmark][4] and Intel Core i3-4170 @ 3.70GHz has 5,166 points. Which means, that their performance is comparable in multitasking, with i5-6400 slightly better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is in number of physical cores, and speed obviously. The [i3-4170][5] has **two** physical cores, while [i5-6400 has four][6]. The Intel HyperThreading technology allows a processor to reclaim some (!) of unused processing time of cores that are idle, or to be more precise, the instructions on the core, that are not used ([the performance gain is close to 20%][7]). This means, that for multithreading you are far better with i5-6400, and for quick, single threaded tasks, with i3-4170. Please consult the [question &amp; answers][8] on Superuser about Intel HyperThreading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the game Sims 3, either will perform greatly. Which does not necessairly mean, that you should go with cheaper one - investing in Skylake platform will make your build much more 'future-proof', and it's what I would reccomend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skylake_(microarchitecture)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannonlake&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaby_Lake&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i3-4170%20%40%203.70GHz&amp;id=2522&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i5-6400%20%40%202.70GHz&amp;id=2578&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://superuser.com/a/122571/526874&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://superuser.com/questions/122536/what-is-hyper-threading-and-how-does-it-work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1652" RevisionGUID="bafb43be-a663-4a85-8577-d97a38d5d9d8" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:56:26.577" UserId="951" Comment="added 221 characters in body" Text="&gt; I'm just looking for a good base computer that I can play some sims on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; that I can upgrade as I go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Than your best bet is going with latest mobo and cheapest processor for this chipset (1151 in this case, codenamed [skylake][1]). That way, in years to come, the i7-6700 processor can be much cheaper, not to mention other processors that will come for this chipset ([Cannonlake][2] and [Kaby Lake][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-6400 @ 2.70GHz has a mark of 6,517 points on [cpubenchmark][4] and Intel Core i3-4170 @ 3.70GHz has 5,166 points. Which means, that their performance is comparable in multitasking, with i5-6400 slightly better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is in number of physical cores, and speed obviously. The [i3-4170][5] has **two** physical cores, while [i5-6400 has four][6]. The Intel HyperThreading technology allows a processor to reclaim some (!) of unused processing time of cores that are idle, or to be more precise, the instructions on the core, that are not used ([the performance gain is close to 20%][7]). This means, that for multithreading you are far better with i5-6400, and for quick, single threaded tasks, with i3-4170. Please consult the [question &amp; answers][8] on Superuser about Intel HyperThreading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the game Sims 3, either will perform greatly. Which does not necessairly mean, that you should go with cheaper one - investing in Skylake platform will make your build much more 'future-proof', and it's what I would reccomend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, as you mention lagging in Sims 3 - consider posting a qestion about graphics card for this, becasue I suspect, that the graphics bottlenecks (and will bottleneck, if you wont buy a graphic card in your new setup).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skylake_(microarchitecture)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannonlake&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaby_Lake&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i3-4170%20%40%203.70GHz&amp;id=2522&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i5-6400%20%40%202.70GHz&amp;id=2578&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://superuser.com/a/122571/526874&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://superuser.com/questions/122536/what-is-hyper-threading-and-how-does-it-work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1653" RevisionGUID="a57ace1c-ed86-4b26-a177-ab4239168dc5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:16:24.463" UserId="1352" Text="I would like to use a [cubox-i][1] (or any arm based single-board computer) as controler for a media installation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a jvc audio amplifier which have an heavy power consumption, and no possibilities to manage that remotly, for example with hdmi-cec. I have also 5.1 speakers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to find an audio amplifier manageable by hdmi-cec, cubox have only a s/pdif output, so the audio amplifier should have one too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or ideally some electronic cards or adapters able to transmit the sound from the s/pdif to my speakers with that kind of cable:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, could you tell me the name of these cables? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://solid-run.com/product/cubox-i4x4/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SpVTim.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1653" RevisionGUID="a57ace1c-ed86-4b26-a177-ab4239168dc5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:16:24.463" UserId="1352" Text="Audio amplifier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1653" RevisionGUID="a57ace1c-ed86-4b26-a177-ab4239168dc5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:16:24.463" UserId="1352" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="91fdfc15-2e35-4271-a53d-044f636a609b" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:06:01.147" UserId="949" Text="I found these 4 coolers for the same price, but I don't know which should I buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I favor performance and temperature. the size/looks doesn't really matter, if it fits in the chassis I'm happy (780T Full Tower PC Case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cooler for Intel I7 6700k + Z170 deluxe + GTX 980 ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have a silent build, but its not that big deal. A cooler that doesn't need maintenance is a huge plus (I guess closed water cooler and vapor chamber don't need maintenance...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master V8 GTS&#xD;&#xA; - Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro Series H100i&#xD;&#xA; - Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm UFB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is a better cooler suited for me under 100$ I will be interested to know...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this question is somewhat subjective, but I can't find the answer online, I only see different opinions everywhere..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="91fdfc15-2e35-4271-a53d-044f636a609b" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:06:01.147" UserId="949" Text="which cpu cooler should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="91fdfc15-2e35-4271-a53d-044f636a609b" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:06:01.147" UserId="949" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="2dc29a11-ae1a-4f24-9188-4d67bcd8e58f" CreationDate="2015-12-28T03:19:53.607" UserId="949" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I found these 4 coolers for the same price, but I don't know which should I buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I favor performance and temperature. the size/looks doesn't really matter, if it fits in the chassis I'm happy (780T Full Tower PC Case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cpu cooler for Intel I7 6700k + Z170 deluxe + single GTX 980ti build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have a silent build, but its not that big deal. A cooler that doesn't need maintenance is a huge plus (I guess closed water cooler and vapor chamber don't need maintenance...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master V8 GTS&#xD;&#xA; - Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro Series H100i&#xD;&#xA; - Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm UFB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is a better cooler suited for me under 100$ I will be interested to know...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this question is somewhat subjective, but I can't find the answer online, I only see different opinions everywhere..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1656" RevisionGUID="3c23dec8-ae1d-4941-8e9d-b5b9631b17db" CreationDate="2015-12-28T11:42:45.803" UserId="1249" Text="Just about any front panel audio will work for you. I merely searched for &quot;audio 5.25&quot; and found [this][1] product for $14 (customs and VAT may apply). It fulfills exactly your requirements and nothing more. It's also worth noting it's &quot;HD audio&quot; - that's the most recent spec of connecting audio jacks to mainboard (the part that makes your computer detect plugging of jacks and let you decide in software what function will it perform).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However if you're really after simply replicating AUX jack from the back of your computer, then products like [this archaeological artifact][2] are surprisingly still available. The point is visible on the last pic: those cables doesn't even connect to internal mainboard ports at all! They're just &quot;dumb&quot; male jack to female jack extension cords. If you have such special needs, they will trick your computer into thinking that something is always plugged in, even if there is nothing attached to the front panel. Fun fact: it will even work just as well on the desk, outside of your computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note: as your case has bay door that will block access to front panels, maybe regular extension cords: a pair for [headphones/mic][3] and another for [USB][4], plugged into back will serve your purposes better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yet another thought: many monitors have USB hubs and audio out (from HDMI) jack. There is a slight possibility you already have everything you need : )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/19Pin-2-Port-USB-3-0-HUB-HD-Audio-Microphone-Port-5-25-PC-Floppy-Front-Panel-/172026144613?hash=item280d8ea765:g:2cQAAOSw7FRWapVW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Front-USB-Audio-Ports-3-5-to-5-25-converter-bracket-/201171501883?hash=item2ed6c1833b:g:KIsAAOSwRLZUFt6b&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-3ft-Stereo-Headphone-Extension-Cord-Male-3-5mm-Jack-to-female-3-5mm-socket-/400741943566?hash=item5d4e14c90e:g:WVoAAOSw7I5Tw5VL&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-3-0-A-Male-Plug-To-Female-Jack-Socket-3Ft-1m-Super-Fast-Extension-Cable-Cord-/281359643324?hash=item41825772bc:g:3RwAAOSwq5lTmVXk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="12a9a451-9c85-46bc-a8d8-31ead2647e6e" CreationDate="2015-12-28T12:41:40.683" UserId="68" Text="I am looking at a inexpensive and low power home server to run Windows Server 2012 Essentials R2.  I see there are some [server versions of the Atom processor][2] that have 2 to 8 cores and clock speeds in the 1.7 to 2.4 GHz range. I am concerned because the clock speeds are below [Microsoft's recommended requirements][3] although they do exceed the minimum requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key specs for Server Essentials R2 from Microsoft's recommendations (linked above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ╔══════════════╦════════════════════════════╦════════════════════════════╗&#xD;&#xA;    ║  Component   ║          Minimum           ║        Recommended*        ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╠══════════════╬════════════════════════════╬════════════════════════════╣&#xD;&#xA;    ║ CPU socket   ║ 1.3 GHz (64-bit processor) ║ 3.1 GHz (64-bit processor) ║&#xD;&#xA;    ║ Memory (RAM) ║ 2 GB                       ║ 16 GB                      ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╚══════════════╩════════════════════════════╩════════════════════════════╝&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for a server box that will do nothing else but acting in the Server 2012 R2 Essentials role and local DNS, is an Atom processor sufficiently powerful, or should I opt for a inexpensive processor Xeon E3 family?  Ultimately, my question is what is the performance impact of the processor not meeting the recommended specs, and will looking at a 4-core or 8-core Atom make up for the slower clock speeds?  I do plan on trying to hit the recommended memory requirement  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the cost factor, I am also very interested in an Atom because of the low power consumption. I already have enough higher-power hardware running 24/7 so I'd like to avoid adding more, but the power consumption is a secondary factor and is not a hard requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/71263/Intel-Atom-Processor-for-Server&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn383626.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="12a9a451-9c85-46bc-a8d8-31ead2647e6e" CreationDate="2015-12-28T12:41:40.683" UserId="68" Text="Performance impact Intel Atom Server on Windows Server 2012 Essentials" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5989" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="12a9a451-9c85-46bc-a8d8-31ead2647e6e" CreationDate="2015-12-28T12:41:40.683" UserId="68" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1658" RevisionGUID="10237b30-14e9-467e-8bc9-1c2b51c63891" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:10:46.350" UserId="1355" Text="What's the successor to the Hewlett Packard LaserJet 6L?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The printer was **sturdy** (it would still work away happily nearly 15 years later, if there were still drivers for Windows and LTP connectors on computers), its **print quality** excellent (no smearing toner when you used a highlighter on a printed page, no creases on a page, crisp, clean print-outs), and the **toner cheap** (35 EUR or 38 USD per 2500 pages, approx, i.e. 1.4EURct/1.52USDct). And it was fairly **compact**, with a [small footprint][1] on a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions what printer from HP's current range might replace it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-laserjet-6l/specs/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1658" RevisionGUID="10237b30-14e9-467e-8bc9-1c2b51c63891" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:10:46.350" UserId="1355" Text="Replacing a HP LaserJet 6L printer - what is today's equivalent from HP's range?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1658" RevisionGUID="10237b30-14e9-467e-8bc9-1c2b51c63891" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:10:46.350" UserId="1355" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="e48f1114-eb9a-496a-8136-cad09b8876be" CreationDate="2015-12-28T18:20:49.820" UserId="68" Comment="added 365 characters in body" Text="I am looking at a inexpensive and low power home server to run Windows Server 2012 Essentials R2.  I see there are some [server versions of the Atom processor][2] that have 2 to 8 cores and clock speeds in the 1.7 to 2.4 GHz range. I am concerned because the clock speeds are below [Microsoft's recommended requirements][3] although they do exceed the minimum requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key specs for Server Essentials R2 from Microsoft's recommendations (linked above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ╔══════════════╦════════════════════════════╦════════════════════════════╗&#xD;&#xA;    ║  Component   ║          Minimum           ║        Recommended*        ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╠══════════════╬════════════════════════════╬════════════════════════════╣&#xD;&#xA;    ║ CPU socket   ║ 1.3 GHz (64-bit processor) ║ 3.1 GHz (64-bit processor) ║&#xD;&#xA;    ║ Memory (RAM) ║ 2 GB                       ║ 16 GB                      ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╚══════════════╩════════════════════════════╩════════════════════════════╝&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for a server box that will do nothing else but acting in the Server 2012 R2 Essentials role (including Active Directory) and local DNS, is an Atom processor sufficiently powerful, or should I opt for a inexpensive processor Xeon E3 family?  For Active Directory, there are only 4 people in the family, plus a handful of other machine specific accounts and an admin account (no more than 10 users).  There are a total of 5 other Windows devices that are part of the domain, but 6 connected android phones and tablets (and 2 work laptops that are part of corporate domains).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ultimately, my question is what is the performance impact of the processor not meeting the recommended specs, and will looking at a 4-core or 8-core Atom make up for the slower clock speeds?  I do plan on trying to hit the recommended memory requirement.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the cost factor, I am also very interested in an Atom because of the low power consumption. I already have enough higher-power hardware running 24/7 so I'd like to avoid adding more, but the power consumption is a secondary factor and is not a hard requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/71263/Intel-Atom-Processor-for-Server&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn383626.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="9e34917d-204b-4856-a7d2-1112587c535d" CreationDate="2015-12-28T19:49:19.937" UserId="68" Comment="clarified activity of some devices" Text="I am looking at a inexpensive and low power home server to run Windows Server 2012 Essentials R2.  I see there are some [server versions of the Atom processor][2] that have 2 to 8 cores and clock speeds in the 1.7 to 2.4 GHz range. I am concerned because the clock speeds are below [Microsoft's recommended requirements][3] although they do exceed the minimum requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key specs for Server Essentials R2 from Microsoft's recommendations (linked above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ╔══════════════╦════════════════════════════╦════════════════════════════╗&#xD;&#xA;    ║  Component   ║          Minimum           ║        Recommended*        ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╠══════════════╬════════════════════════════╬════════════════════════════╣&#xD;&#xA;    ║ CPU socket   ║ 1.3 GHz (64-bit processor) ║ 3.1 GHz (64-bit processor) ║&#xD;&#xA;    ║ Memory (RAM) ║ 2 GB                       ║ 16 GB                      ║&#xD;&#xA;    ╚══════════════╩════════════════════════════╩════════════════════════════╝&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for a server box that will do nothing else but acting in the Server 2012 R2 Essentials role (including Active Directory) and local DNS, is an Atom processor sufficiently powerful, or should I opt for a inexpensive processor Xeon E3 family?  For Active Directory, there are only 4 people in the family, plus a handful of other machine specific accounts and an admin account (no more than 10 users).  There are a total of 5 other Windows devices that are part of the domain (only 3 are actively used), plus there are a number of other devices that will connect via Wi-Fi or LAN that are not part of the domain (6 android phones and tablets and 2 work laptops that are part of corporate domains).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ultimately, my question is what is the performance impact of the processor not meeting the recommended specs, and will looking at a 4-core or 8-core Atom make up for the slower clock speeds?  I do plan on trying to hit the recommended memory requirement.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the cost factor, I am also very interested in an Atom because of the low power consumption. I already have enough higher-power hardware running 24/7 so I'd like to avoid adding more, but the power consumption is a secondary factor and is not a hard requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/71263/Intel-Atom-Processor-for-Server&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn383626.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="23ab73e2-2d00-439f-9d50-60d07ef9500c" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:25:35.713" UserId="1357" Text="So, my trusty HP photosmart all-in-one finally gave out after 10+ years of faithful service. I need a new printer/scanner for occasional use at my house. The photosmart was set up to store the scans to a memory card which stayed permanently in the printer. I could then navigate to a network share on the printer to access the scans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I already have a Windows server with several shares on it I would prefer if the new printer could save the scan directly to a share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I rarely print or scan things but when I need it, I need it so I want a scanner that is cheap, but reliable and can endure long periods with little or no use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any good, cheap printer/scanners that can scan to a network share?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some guidelines on how I will use the printer/scanner:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will print at most maybe 10 pages a month. Possibly less.&#xD;&#xA;- I will scan a mix of photos and documents. Probably around 5 items scanned a month.&#xD;&#xA;- since I use it so little, the most I am willing to spend is $100. If it costs more than that, I will just get a cheap all-in-one and use it with the memory card like I did the previous printer.&#xD;&#xA;- printing from iOS devices is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;- it will be connected to the network via Ethernet. No wifi required.&#xD;&#xA;All user interaction to scan should be on the scanner itself. I do not want to have to log into a computer and initiate the scan from the computer.&#xD;&#xA;- keep in mind that the Windows server is constantly running but no one is logged in. While I would prefer a solution that does not involve installing software on the server, I will if I have to, but it must run as a Windows service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could store the scans on a memory card in the printer and write a Windows service myself that polls the printer to see if there are any new scans and copies them to the share, but that seems like overkill because I probably will not use the scanner even on a weekly basis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help me find something that meets my criteria." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="23ab73e2-2d00-439f-9d50-60d07ef9500c" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:25:35.713" UserId="1357" Text="Cheap network all-in-one printer that can scan to network share?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="23ab73e2-2d00-439f-9d50-60d07ef9500c" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:25:35.713" UserId="1357" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="01b5fc12-c8f0-43b8-a165-805a17e2d1f5" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:47:41.243" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1660" RevisionGUID="4ff3d291-7964-4bf3-ae9e-8a97c117f126" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:53:08.213" UserId="912" Text="The Atom line of CPU's require the CPU to be permanently soldered to the motherboard, which limits choices and flexibility/upgradability. As far as I'm aware, getting a motherboard with a Atom chip built in is very hard to find and is possibly not cheap. If you can find a board with Atom built in that is cheap, it will perform about as well or just as well as a E3 in your tasks. It will also use much less electricity and produce much less heat than a E3. If you plan on upgrading later or want it to perform other more intensive tasks, then you might want to look into the E3 line. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1661" RevisionGUID="81793782-5b88-4da5-bf09-64dbd2deb36a" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:58:02.143" UserId="912" Text="If all these 4 coolers are the same price, I would recommend the H100i. It is a very powerful closed loop CPU cooler (I have done some serious overclock with this cooler). Since you got a overclockable CPU, if you want to overclock in the future you can do that with this cooler no problem. The new Skylake CPUs have a thinner PCB, so heavy CPU coolers can actually bend the chip (not a good thing). Since all the other choices are really heavy tower coolers, the H100i can prevent the CPU from bending." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1663" RevisionGUID="6b146e4e-f968-44cf-8a95-41de5ced5ed6" CreationDate="2015-12-29T03:19:01.240" UserId="669" Text="I'm looking for a mobile sound card that connects via USB to a computer and can produce decent sound comparable or better than cheap internal audiocards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thing is I've listened to a few built-in AC97 Realtek cards, mobile players and smartphones and they all can't compete with even the cheapest internal PCI audiocard. Bass just isn't there on any of them and the sound seems dulled in comparison. So I'm looking for a mobile solution to this problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works with at least Windows 7;&#xD;&#xA;- Has 3.5mm or 6.35mm output;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1663" RevisionGUID="6b146e4e-f968-44cf-8a95-41de5ced5ed6" CreationDate="2015-12-29T03:19:01.240" UserId="669" Text="External USB audiocard with 3.5 or 6.35 jack output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1663" RevisionGUID="6b146e4e-f968-44cf-8a95-41de5ced5ed6" CreationDate="2015-12-29T03:19:01.240" UserId="669" Text="&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1664" RevisionGUID="7b23959f-f1fe-451d-8e08-1b8e03b992a2" CreationDate="2015-12-29T04:41:41.930" UserId="1329" Text="&gt; I just want to be able to play all my expansions I have about 5 expansions and on my current set up I can only play 2 expansions without horrible lag times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The recommendation could be better if you include the specifications of the computer that has the lags in your question, so we can analyze where the bottleneck in your current setup is and if the newer hardware would be a substantial improvement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, *The Sims 3* was released in [2009][1], [is based on DirectX 9 and has moderate hardware requirements][2]. A fairly obvious case one might say?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Core i3-4170 vs. Core i5-6400 GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For comparison of Intel GPUs there is a separate [article in Wikipedia][3] that gives a really useful overview, combined with the data in the lists for all the Intel processors (list-type Wikipedia links are/were banned on some SE sites, but they are not hard to find) we get this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core i3-4170 GPU runs at 350–1150 MHz, TDP 54 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 4200, *4400*, 4600, P4600, P4700 – GT2, 20 execution units, up to 432 GFLOPS at 1350 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core i5-6400 GPU runs at 350–950 MHz, TDP 65 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 530, GT2 – 24 execution units, up to 441.6 GFLOPS at 1.15 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For comparison, the GPU of the Ivy Brigde CPU I have in my T530:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 4000 – 16 execution units and additional features, up to 332.8 GFLOPS at 1300 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So just by looking at the GFLOPS, there isn't really any difference between both models but about 30% increase over the older generation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# DirectX 9 in 2015 how hard could it be?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just for a test I ran Tomb Raider (2013, DirectX 11) on the laptops GPU. By lowering the graphics settings I was able to play, but I am much less finicky about lags. With that in mind I thought DOA5:LR based on DirectX 9 in 2015 released on PC would run smooth, but I was wrong. I wouldn't wave off GPU demands so easily anymore. Chances that Sims 3 will run fine however are pretty good, especially when looking at this section from the recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For computers using built-in graphics chipsets under Windows, the game requires at least:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Intel Integrated Chipset, GMA 3-Series or above&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     2.6 GHz Pentium D CPU, or 1.8 GHz Core 2 Duo, or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     0.5 GB additional RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of your options outperform these requirements, but it's hard to tell which level of detail can be achieved and it doesn't look like there is enough headroom for newer games like [Sims 4][4]. If I was a Sims fan and had to buy a new computer today to play Sims 3, I'd make sure that it would also run Sims 4 from 2014, which is still based on DirectX 9, has moderate requirements for 2014, but is much more demanding in terms of GPU power. DOA5:LR is still a different game, but let's say I have doubts when I read the following in the minimal requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GeForce 6600 or better, ATI Radeon X1300 or better, Intel GMA X4500 or better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you still want to go APU only for Sims 3, then it's fine, for Sims 4 I would consider looking at AMD's APU offerings in similar price ranges. They are not very competitive compared to Intel's high performance offerings and their latest desktop CPUs are from 2014, but their iGPUs are said to have significantly more power ([1][5], [2][6]) and the CPU part still manages to run games too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Upgrading CPUs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think Piotr is wrong when he says:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; That way, in years to come, the i7-6700 processor can be much cheaper, not to mention other processors that will come for this chipset (Cannonlake and Kaby Lake).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to see more facts, preferably in the market where you are/the OP is. My experience here in Europe/Germany is that prices for Intel processors are very stable after the spike at launch and opportunities for a bargain offer are minimal if you want to avoid buying used hardware (from users where you don't know how they treat their hardware).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also buying *any* board with a Skylake compatible chipset appears more like a bad idea when you look at how many products a chipset family has today and how quickly Intel changed sockets in the last years or which features were missing and were only added to the next generation (no native USB 3.0 for example, and it looks like Skylake and Kaby Lake will have the same thing for 3.1). By now it should be very clear to everyone that Intel is releasing features successively and moving from a tick-tock to a tick-tick-tock model or something different. At any point you will not get the full feature set to be *future-proof* until the next better thing appears on a roadmap. This is pretty disappointing for long time upgrade strategies, but Intel can relax when it comes to selling single processors currently, they have to focus on marketing entire *platforms* (all devices where you don't usually upgrade the CPU) and to be fair platforms have increased in complexity so it's not only ill will that we can't go back to the good old Socket 478 or earlier days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sims_3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.thesims3.com/game/systemreq&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_HD_and_Iris_Graphics&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.thesims.com/faq#what-are-the-PC-minimum-system-requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.3dcenter.org/artikel/amd-llano-radeon-hd-6550d-vs-intel-hd-graphics-3000-oc/performance-index &quot;Sorry this is in German.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=amd_kaveri_7850k&amp;num=6 &quot;This is Linux where Intel should have better drivers.&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="1a77eae9-7f7c-4513-b759-d90d23f5716e" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:59:53.153" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I found these 4 coolers for the same price, but I don't know which should I buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I favor performance and temperature. the size/looks doesn't really matter, if it fits in the chassis I'm happy (780T Full Tower PC Case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PU cooler for Intel I7 6700k + Z170 deluxe + single GTX 980ti build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have a silent build, but it's not that big deal. A cooler that doesn't need maintenance is a huge plus (I guess closed water cooler and vapor chamber don't need maintenance...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master V8 GTS&#xD;&#xA; - Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro Series H100i&#xD;&#xA; - Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm UFB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is a better cooler suited for me under 100$ I will be interested to know...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this question is somewhat subjective, but I can't find the answer online, I only see different opinions everywhere..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="1a77eae9-7f7c-4513-b759-d90d23f5716e" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:59:53.153" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="Which CPU cooler should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="1a77eae9-7f7c-4513-b759-d90d23f5716e" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:59:53.153" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by -1 edit id of 356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1655" RevisionGUID="d3e31378-42a0-4617-85a3-4d8b30c74094" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:59:53.153" UserId="912" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I found these 4 coolers for the same price, but I don't know which should I buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I favor performance and temperature. the size/looks doesn't really matter, if it fits in the chassis I'm happy (780T Full Tower PC Case). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU cooler for Intel I7 6700k + Z170 deluxe + single GTX 980ti build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have a silent build, but it's not that big deal. A cooler that doesn't need maintenance is a huge plus (I guess closed water cooler and vapor chamber don't need maintenance...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master V8 GTS&#xD;&#xA; - Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro Series H100i&#xD;&#xA; - Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm UFB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is a better cooler suited for me under 100$ I will be interested to know...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this question is somewhat subjective, but I can't find the answer online, I only see different opinions everywhere..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="09a723d6-2bc8-430a-b24c-4a9646dfc386" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:29:23.770" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I'm making a BLE scanner to control locations of my devices. I have a scanner working and it is able to scan BLE devices, but I can't decide what I should buy (I need 150 of them). I just need simplicity and low power consumption. The only thing which I want to scan are MAC address, so I won't need any other features.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on eBay, Aliexpress and a few more shops, but I don't exactly know how to formulate a search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you help me with what I'm searching for or give me some specific models?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="09a723d6-2bc8-430a-b24c-4a9646dfc386" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:29:23.770" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="Which BLE transmitter should I use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1616" RevisionGUID="09a723d6-2bc8-430a-b24c-4a9646dfc386" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:29:23.770" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 912, 1 edit id of 357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="f0a345c1-9475-4c52-8d07-8eb0759efb71" CreationDate="2015-12-29T18:35:43.000" UserId="1261" Comment="more general" Text="I have GTX 670 in my system where I need to do Matlab computation. &#xD;&#xA;I am thinking which GPU could be better. &#xD;&#xA;This benchmark [here][1] shows that GTX 670 is better in some conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 670 supports Cuda 3, while GTX 750 Ti supports CUDA 5 but GTX 960 supports Cuda 5.2. &#xD;&#xA;This is the main reason why I am thinking the update.&#xD;&#xA;However, I have no experience how much this difference could be in reliability, accuracy and computation speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you decide which GPU is better for scientific computation in Matlab?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-750-Ti-vs-Nvidia-GTX-670/2187vs2181" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="f0a345c1-9475-4c52-8d07-8eb0759efb71" CreationDate="2015-12-29T18:35:43.000" UserId="1261" Comment="more general" Text="GeForce GTX * in Matlab?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1610" RevisionGUID="f0741c04-e735-47ce-88ef-a93dafaa86cd" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:34:19.630" UserId="1261" Comment="clearer" Text="This benchmark [here][1] shows that GTX 670 is better in some conditions. &#xD;&#xA;GTX 670 supports Cuda 3, while GTX 750 Ti supports CUDA 5 but GTX 960 supports Cuda 5.2. &#xD;&#xA;However, I have no experience how much this difference could be in reliability, accuracy and computation speed.&#xD;&#xA;I would like to understand differences between Cuda 5 and 5.2 in Matlab computation, and this way, understand which GTX to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you decide which GPU is better for scientific computation in Matlab?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-750-Ti-vs-Nvidia-GTX-670/2187vs2181" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1667" RevisionGUID="4871d4ba-86e0-43ea-b3f9-6b4e4834ea97" CreationDate="2015-12-29T21:44:27.230" UserId="711" Text="After reading [this suggested question][1], the Xiaomi Redmi Note 2 seems like it might be a good fit.  [GSMArena specs][2] look promising, though I'm not sure if it has a removable battery yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wasn't even familiar with this brand of phone, but apparently they're a big manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/48/smartphones-under-100-for-android-development?rq=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_2-6992.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1668" RevisionGUID="820c2800-4569-4a03-91b2-677479b71411" CreationDate="2015-12-30T01:33:15.550" UserId="1329" Text="Have you heard about ***O2+ODAC*** by [NwAvGuy][1]? After some evaluation of products in the market at around 2012 he started his own DIY project for a headphone amplifier (the *O2*) and later retrofitted a DAC into the design (*ODAC* both together make up *O2+ODAC*). It's a USB Audio Class I device and therefore runs on a lot of platforms out of the box that support USB audio unlike some other devices that require USB Audio Class II, which is not supported in Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**JDS Labs**][2] is one of the companies that offers DIY kits for O2 if you want to build the amplifier yourself but don't want to look deeper into the bill of materials ([BOM][3]). They also made a [revision][4] to the original design based on their customers experience to improve compatibility and they have a few other interesting articles on their blog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something more portable or something bigger with even more power they offer Amp+DAC products like *C5D* and *The Element* in their shop. I was uncertain when my EL-8 arrived this year about which product to buy without spending insane amounts of money and was happy to find and read through NwAvGuy's blog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**tl;dr:** If it has to be within $30 read his review of the [**Behringer UCA202**][5]. If you want to have a really good but portable device consider the JDS Labs C5D or the O2+ODAC. If you don't mind carrying a power &quot;brick&quot; adapter but want to use planar magnetic headphones get *The Element*. It's only a few CD jewel cases high and very nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(I finally bought The Element on Black Friday in addition to the C5D I settled for first. I have no affiliation with any of the companies mentioned here.)&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.jdslabs.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/08/o2-details.html#obtainingthecomponents&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://blog.jdslabs.com/?p=1003&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/02/behringer-uca202-review.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1668" RevisionGUID="ea351c56-e8b6-46d6-9b73-20597ffcb4a8" CreationDate="2015-12-30T01:38:17.663" UserId="1329" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="Have you heard about ***O2+ODAC*** by [NwAvGuy][1]? After some evaluation of products in the market at around 2012 he started his own DIY project for a headphone amplifier (the *O2*) and later retrofitted a DAC into the design (*ODAC*, both together make up *O2+ODAC*). It's a USB Audio Class I device and therefore runs on a lot of platforms out of the box that support USB audio unlike some other devices that require USB Audio Class II, which is not supported in Windows without special drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**JDS Labs**][2] is one of the companies that offers DIY kits for O2 if you want to build the amplifier yourself but don't want to look deeper into the bill of materials ([BOM][3]). They also made a [revision][4] with compatibility improvments to the original design based on their customers experience and they have a few other interesting articles on their blog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something more portable or something bigger with even more power they offer Amp+DAC products like *C5D* and *The Element* in their shop. I was uncertain when my EL-8 arrived this year about which product to buy without spending insane amounts of money and was happy to find and read through NwAvGuy's blog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**tl;dr:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If it has to be within $30 read his review of the [**Behringer UCA202**][5].&#xD;&#xA;- If you want to have a really good but portable device consider the JDS Labs C5D or the O2+ODAC.&#xD;&#xA;- If you don't mind carrying a power &quot;brick&quot; adapter but want to use planar magnetic headphones get *The Element*. It's only a few CD jewel cases high and very nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(I finally bought The Element on Black Friday in addition to the C5D I settled for first. I have no affiliation with any of the companies mentioned here.)&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.jdslabs.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/08/o2-details.html#obtainingthecomponents&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://blog.jdslabs.com/?p=1003&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/02/behringer-uca202-review.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="67" RevisionGUID="9b336e17-82b7-4cba-8052-f39661a50a4f" CreationDate="2015-12-30T03:43:50.510" UserId="107" Comment="added 131 characters in body" Text="Just pick up a cheap prepaid/no-contract Android phone like the LG Optimus Exceed 2 or Moto E.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Exceed 2 frequently goes on sale for as little as $15-$20 and has a dual-core CPU and 4 GB flash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Moto E often goes on sale for $40 and has a quad-core CPU and 8 GB flash. I bought one for $10 on Black Friday 2015. The camera is garbage but otherwise it is a good low-end Android phone for development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also other prepaid phones that run older versions of Android, as well as older unlocked models available on the secondhand market (e.g., eBay) for well under $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that, while many people do have high-end phones, many others have lower-end phones, and it's useful to test an app on a range of hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1669" RevisionGUID="4ca7b5b7-0131-4c8f-bace-61c601890bc2" CreationDate="2015-12-30T06:46:23.647" UserId="1364" Text="I suggest you go for the moto e (any gen , preferably latest) or ship any android one devices cause these are the **'purest'** android devices in the 100$ - 120$ segment out there .The biggest advantage is that they don't run bloat ware means that you have a clutter-free experience with your android device and you stay updated all the time(Google ships updates to these devices faster to these devices compared to other OEMs). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1670" RevisionGUID="09719714-2452-4563-b596-13a5fc92eea3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T07:51:01.050" UserId="1261" Text="I bought GTX 960 GPUs but noticed that the are not supported by all my PCs, most notably business PCs. &#xD;&#xA;I would like to find some well supported GPUs because I am only interested in computation by GPU, not gaming. &#xD;&#xA;However, I am not sure if I lose some performance if I choose such GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;Options are only Nvidia's GPUs with CUDA support because the computation is required in Matlab. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you find GPU for computation with wide support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1670" RevisionGUID="09719714-2452-4563-b596-13a5fc92eea3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T07:51:01.050" UserId="1261" Text="How to find Nvidia GPU for CUDA computation with wide support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1670" RevisionGUID="09719714-2452-4563-b596-13a5fc92eea3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T07:51:01.050" UserId="1261" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1670" RevisionGUID="db6f8afc-d37d-4b73-be95-1bff79df5457" CreationDate="2015-12-30T09:00:20.100" UserId="1261" Comment="HP added" Text="I bought GTX 960 GPUs but noticed that the are not supported by all my PCs, most notably business PCs. &#xD;&#xA;I would like to find some well supported GPUs because I am only interested in computation by GPU, not gaming. &#xD;&#xA;However, I am not sure if I lose some performance if I choose such GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;Options are only Nvidia's GPUs with CUDA support because the computation is required in Matlab. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Examples of Business PCs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HP Compaq Pro 6300 Business PC (Intel Chipset Q75) and many other HP PCs with Intel Chipset Q75, Q85, ... Thread [here][1] about Q85 and [here][2] about Q75.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you find GPU for computation with wide support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/869600/what-is-the-6-pin-power-connector-on-an-hp-prodesk&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/q/1019536/2005" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1671" RevisionGUID="6d9a65af-0196-4944-a762-1390a11064ca" CreationDate="2015-12-30T09:43:17.337" UserId="241" Text="You cannot install any worthwhile computing GPU in a HP Compaq Pro 6300.  Although the mainboard supports PCIe x16, the power supply is only 320 watts, far below what even lower-end computing cards require, and it uses custom connectors, making it impossible to upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="9c044d58-713a-498e-bafc-494fe19a16c3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T11:09:05.770" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I ordered new case to my ITX build it's&#xD;&#xA;[Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white)][1].&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to light it with cold white light but I have to choose source of light. I have two favourites (both powered by PSU):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cold Cathode (Revoltec) - one 300 mm at top and and one at bottom of case (if they will fit) or two 100 mm at top and two at bottom (if 300 mm won't fit). &#xD;&#xA; - LED Strip (5050, 12V, Color: Cold White) - around whole case or only at the top and bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Which configuration will consume less power (Watts) ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. Which configuration provides more light ? &#xD;&#xA; 3. Any pros/cons for this configurations ?&#xD;&#xA; 4. Any other possible solutions ?&#xD;&#xA; 5. Which will look better (I know it is subjective opinion, but what do you think)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="9c044d58-713a-498e-bafc-494fe19a16c3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T11:09:05.770" UserId="1366" Text="Choosing source of lighting in case. LED stripes or cold cathodes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="9c044d58-713a-498e-bafc-494fe19a16c3" CreationDate="2015-12-30T11:09:05.770" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="641cee76-a6b5-498e-92f2-aef1754c5854" CreationDate="2015-12-30T11:46:55.703" UserId="1366" Comment="edited title" Text="Choosing source of light in case. LED stripes or cold cathodes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1673" RevisionGUID="8ef5e66d-4fa9-4b16-8141-050c03c4293f" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:34:40.047" UserId="912" Text="I really can't think of a reason to get cold cathodes, except maybe they produce more light than some LEDs. LEDs will always use less power as long as you are comparing it against a cold cathode with the same amount of light emitted. LEDs will also last longer than cold cathodes and are less fragile since they aren't in glass tubes. LEDs usually come in strips, so it is bendable which means that you can bend it around your case to get adequate lighting. Cold cathodes also require a inverter that converts your DC power to AC power, which is another source of inefficiency and point of failure. For looks, LEDs will look better because they are flexible but cold cathodes will give you a much more retro look. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="84fdb214-b52f-454c-8ee8-172804f312d8" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:55:58.217" UserId="128" Comment="Remove closing remarks" Text="I ordered new case to my ITX build it's&#xD;&#xA;[Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white)][1].&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to light it with cold white light but I have to choose source of light. I have two favourites (both powered by PSU):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cold Cathode (Revoltec) - one 300 mm at top and and one at bottom of case (if they will fit) or two 100 mm at top and two at bottom (if 300 mm won't fit). &#xD;&#xA; - LED Strip (5050, 12V, Color: Cold White) - around whole case or only at the top and bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Which configuration will consume less power (Watts) ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. Which configuration provides more light ? &#xD;&#xA; 3. Any pros/cons for this configurations ?&#xD;&#xA; 4. Any other possible solutions ?&#xD;&#xA; 5. Which will look better (I know it is subjective opinion, but what do you think)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="84fdb214-b52f-454c-8ee8-172804f312d8" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:55:58.217" Comment="Proposed by 128 approved by 912, 214 edit id of 358" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1676" RevisionGUID="52c4dbb8-7aa9-4818-b993-b50187b95ea4" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:48:38.030" UserId="1371" Text="I'd like to upgrade my laptop's 500GB to a Samsung Evo 850 500GB SSD. &#xA;&#xA;I'd like to know if the SSD will be recognized by my system? &#xA;&#xA;Also, will it work to have 1TB combining the SSD and my current HDD (latter to replace optical drive)? &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop: Dell Studio XPS M1640 (notice the M).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios: A14&#xA;&#xA;Operating system: Ubuntu/Linux " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1676" RevisionGUID="52c4dbb8-7aa9-4818-b993-b50187b95ea4" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:48:38.030" UserId="1371" Text="Will Dell Studio XPS M1640 recognize 500GB SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1676" RevisionGUID="52c4dbb8-7aa9-4818-b993-b50187b95ea4" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:48:38.030" UserId="1371" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1676" RevisionGUID="f7043bb8-9101-4f45-926b-9c75cb3bc9ea" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:53:10.617" UserId="912" Comment="grammar and formatting" Text="I'd like to upgrade my laptop's 500GB to a Samsung Evo 850 500GB SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to know if the SSD will be recognized by my system? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, will it work to have 1TB combining the SSD and my current HDD by placing my HDD in the optical drive? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop: Dell Studio XPS M1640&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating system: Ubuntu/Linux " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1677" RevisionGUID="7e955802-1938-4fe1-a82b-58ba12d898cb" CreationDate="2015-12-31T01:43:18.610" UserId="912" Text="Upgrading the HDD to an SSD will be fine as long as the HDD is a SATA connection (which it is). You cannot place the HDD in the optical drive unless your manufacturer has a bracket for it (some of them do, most of them don't). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1678" RevisionGUID="78a0468e-ff4f-4540-b214-042d7ce5a8fd" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:53:41.027" UserId="1372" Text="The Logitech G502 would be great for your purpose. It has multiple macro buttons and all the buttons are programmable through software. The mouse is ergonomic and is a great gaming mouse. It is also not very expensive for what it is." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="805a7c64-6734-4b76-a38d-9515282c9e4c" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:57:49.803" UserId="1372" Text="I need a really large battery Android phone. It should be able to charge other devices using it's own battery power. It must run a relatively new version of Android (4.3 or newer). It must also cost less than $400 unlocked. Other specs are not important but the higher end the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="805a7c64-6734-4b76-a38d-9515282c9e4c" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:57:49.803" UserId="1372" Text="Large Battery Android Phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="805a7c64-6734-4b76-a38d-9515282c9e4c" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:57:49.803" UserId="1372" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1676" RevisionGUID="a65e131f-9b0b-405e-8668-a89136e1bbdd" CreationDate="2015-12-31T22:31:39.050" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:164,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Firepower0701&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1683" RevisionGUID="d679d178-fe7a-44ac-9b87-5cef752dc31b" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:20:13.577" UserId="1369" Text="In general the Samsung SII+ and Note 2+ series fit very closely to your criteria because: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All have removable batteries&#xD;&#xA;-  almost exclusively a Samsung feature&#xD;&#xA;-  **except** the S6 and Note 5&#xD;&#xA; - All have a MicroSD card slot&#xD;&#xA; - All have USB OTG support&#xD;&#xA;  - this feature is not to be underestimated&#xD;&#xA; - All phones are *very* popular, can be rooted/have ROMs available and should work across all carriers. Refer to: xda-developers.com &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Costs $100~150&#xD;&#xA; - The phone has 2GB or more of RAM  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really only leaves (in order):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Note 2&#xD;&#xA; 2. **S3 (my own preference)**&#xD;&#xA; 3. SII&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Note 2 has enough RAM (2GB) and you'll probably get it for under $150. You should get the S3 easily under $150 and even though it has only *1GB*, you've considered it above so on that basis I've added the SII which is also 1GB. The SII is nice to get comfortable modding with, because you can get one for less than ~$100 last time I checked, most likely cheaper now.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've played with almost all the Samsung phones in the S and Note series and **as it looks like you'll be using the phone on a day to day basis I'd go for the S3 myself because:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 1GB is perfectly fine for normal use&#xD;&#xA; 2. The processor is the same as the Note 2 and performance is arguably similar/better&#xD;&#xA; 3. I prefer the S Pen with Samsung Apps&#xD;&#xA; 4. It's better than the SII (faster and has better internal storage)&#xD;&#xA; 5. It's not that much more expensive than the SII so is nearly as disposable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought these may be helpful  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Accessible general guide to rooting:  &#xD;&#xA;http://lifehacker.com/5789397/the-always-up-to-date-guide-to-rooting-any-android-phone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How to Root T-Mobile Galaxy S3 SGH-T999:  &#xD;&#xA;http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1735561" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1684" RevisionGUID="934bd04d-6708-4a11-9b4c-45a906f19502" CreationDate="2016-01-01T00:43:18.437" UserId="77" Text="UleFone be touch 2 should meet your requirements.  I haven't tried OTG on mine although it's listed as having it in the specs.&#xA;&#xA;http://ulefone.com/products/betouch2/spec.html&#xA;&#xA;Most people appear happy with it and expect the build quality to improve with RMAs and process engineering.&#xA;&#xA;http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/ulefone-touch-2-5-5-inch-hd-metal-frame-t3137333/page214" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1684" RevisionGUID="ea16dbf4-366d-44ff-922e-de2b0f0d749a" CreationDate="2016-01-01T01:49:40.023" UserId="77" Comment="antutu" Text="UleFone be touch 2 should meet your requirements.  I haven't tried OTG on mine although it's listed as having it in the specs.&#xA;&#xA;http://ulefone.com/products/betouch2/spec.html&#xA;&#xA;Most people appear happy with it and expect the build quality to improve with RMAs and process engineering.&#xA;&#xA;http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/ulefone-touch-2-5-5-inch-hd-metal-frame-t3137333/page214&#xA;&#xA;Antutu score better than 89% of smartphones&#xA;http://www.kimovil.com/en/ulefone-be-touch-2/antutu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="a8bb31eb-cd8d-4e26-a1db-0fe3ae7c8248" CreationDate="2016-01-02T09:51:47.217" UserId="1219" Text="I know that the jbl range (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXSL4VPMenk) can do this, but what other companies support using two wireless speakers as a stereo pair? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like speakers that contain batteries so not sonos type speakers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="a8bb31eb-cd8d-4e26-a1db-0fe3ae7c8248" CreationDate="2016-01-02T09:51:47.217" UserId="1219" Text="What bluetooth speakers can make a stereo pair wirelessly?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="a8bb31eb-cd8d-4e26-a1db-0fe3ae7c8248" CreationDate="2016-01-02T09:51:47.217" UserId="1219" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="fbbe7508-90f1-401a-8d7f-5ea2e31a5955" CreationDate="2016-01-02T12:24:27.173" UserId="1388" Text="I basically want to setup my computer to record multiple Lineins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I have only one linein input in my sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need multiple Linein or RCA audio inputs. I'm looking for either PCI devices or USB or any other feasible solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I have many so called 12 volt CCTV mics. They take 12v input and output RCA audio. I used a RCA to 3.5 mm converter and connected one to the Linein of my computer and that worked perfectly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="fbbe7508-90f1-401a-8d7f-5ea2e31a5955" CreationDate="2016-01-02T12:24:27.173" UserId="1388" Text="Multiple linein or RCA sound inputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="fbbe7508-90f1-401a-8d7f-5ea2e31a5955" CreationDate="2016-01-02T12:24:27.173" UserId="1388" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="1e34b88e-6dd7-4ab2-9ed6-8a8903a445f2" CreationDate="2016-01-02T12:30:01.467" UserId="1388" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I basically want to setup my Linux computer to record multiple Lineins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I have only one linein input in my sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need multiple Linein or RCA audio inputs. I'm looking for either PCI devices or USB or bluetooth or any other cheap solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I have many so called 12 volt CCTV mics. They take 12v input and output RCA audio. I used a RCA to 3.5 mm converter and connected one to the Linein of my computer and that worked perfectly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="1e34b88e-6dd7-4ab2-9ed6-8a8903a445f2" CreationDate="2016-01-02T12:30:01.467" UserId="1388" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="c6a805e1-609a-46be-b7b8-b6baf840caaa" CreationDate="2016-01-02T18:07:42.487" UserId="912" Comment="linein to line in" Text="I basically want to setup my Linux computer to record multiple Line ins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I have only one line in input in my sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need multiple Line in or RCA audio inputs. I'm looking for either PCI devices or USB or bluetooth or any other cheap solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I have many so called 12 volt CCTV mics. They take 12v input and output RCA audio. I used a RCA to 3.5 mm converter and connected one to the Line in of my computer and that worked perfectly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1689" RevisionGUID="c6a805e1-609a-46be-b7b8-b6baf840caaa" CreationDate="2016-01-02T18:07:42.487" UserId="912" Comment="linein to line in" Text="Multiple line in or RCA sound inputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1692" RevisionGUID="cf10ca2a-7c0c-4dc4-8fbe-e0bcc03aed6c" CreationDate="2016-01-03T02:02:33.220" UserId="1329" Text="I bought an AeroSkull HD from Jarre Technologies that already had this feature and I remember that they called it **TrueWireless Stereo**. It's a proprietary technology  developed by CSR, the company that makes most of the Bluetooth chips and who have previously acquired aptX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately this particular feature is not advertised through ingredient branding, contrary to the original plans for aptX. Finding more information about *TrueWireless Stereo* seems to be rather difficult. CSR has a separate website for aptX which I suspect to be closely related, but there is no information either, only categories for different products without filtering and sorting to display newest products first or to only show products with that particular feature. (Most of the products on the first page look old.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price comparison sites like geizhals.at also have no information about this feature, though this site usually is very well organized – you just select features you want in a product and get the results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best I can find is the following video from CSR:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSPiAwwXwTA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw that some similar Stereo functionality was also advertised for newer portable speakers like the Sony SRS-X11. While the AreoSkull and some older speakers already have this feature I'd recommend to look closer at products released in 2015 and later." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="0b834cc9-6325-4cae-b0bc-4bfd48f75381" CreationDate="2016-01-03T02:27:15.857" UserId="1329" Comment="add tags, minor improvements and markdown formatting" Text="I know that the JBL range of products can do this ([&quot;JBL Connect&quot; demonstration on YouTube][1]), but what other companies support using two wireless speakers as a stereo pair? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like portable speakers that contain batteries so not Sonos type speakers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXSL4VPMenk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="0b834cc9-6325-4cae-b0bc-4bfd48f75381" CreationDate="2016-01-03T02:27:15.857" UserId="1329" Comment="add tags, minor improvements and markdown formatting" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1688" RevisionGUID="0b834cc9-6325-4cae-b0bc-4bfd48f75381" CreationDate="2016-01-03T02:27:15.857" Comment="Proposed by 1329 approved by 155 edit id of 359" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1694" RevisionGUID="ffd17af2-3a3b-4b8c-8ebb-45689bb02079" CreationDate="2016-01-03T04:49:37.817" UserId="1395" Text="I'm seeking a &lt;=10 AMP wall-outlet heating element that can rapidly heat 300-1200 grams of water to 205 degree Fahrenheit, attached to the side of a glass container.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just purchased [this one][1], but it's bigger than I thought it was going to be.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two other similar, but smaller ones on Amazon that will not work because they are too short - they're less than 3 inches or so.  The device should work for varied water levels: something like 2-6 inches or so.  Most of this type of element will burn up if used without being submerged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BDB4UG&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BVCxu.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1694" RevisionGUID="ffd17af2-3a3b-4b8c-8ebb-45689bb02079" CreationDate="2016-01-03T04:49:37.817" UserId="1395" Text="What heating element can I use to make a coffee robot?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1694" RevisionGUID="ffd17af2-3a3b-4b8c-8ebb-45689bb02079" CreationDate="2016-01-03T04:49:37.817" UserId="1395" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1695" RevisionGUID="dfb79d9f-c1b5-4fd2-9f4e-6dd56fb5c83e" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:58:07.717" UserId="1393" Text="Some basic searches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http://lifehacker.com/five-best-travel-routers-1452441479&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.techhive.com/article/2150741/laptop-accessories/tested-6-new-travel-routers-that-can-deploy-a-secure-wi-fi-network-almost-anywhere.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main use scenario: travelling to some place where with no WiFi. Going to internet cafe that has some old computers connected via ethernet cable but again - no WiFi. iPhones and MacBooks don't have ethernet cable so I would like to transparently plug into existing wired connection and access internet on my devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for the router:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ethernet in&#xD;&#xA;* ethernet out&#xD;&#xA;* powered from battery pack&#xD;&#xA;* (optional nice to have) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet - I don't think it is widely available just yet...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some potential candidates / no affiliates / collected from links on the top:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.amazon.com/BR-6258n-150Mbps-Wireless-Broadband-Supported/dp/B0069JA7M2&#xD;&#xA;* http://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-PR2000-100EUS-Universal-Extender-Travel/dp/B00I4UQ0AC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both reasonably priced. Are there any other models / any other considerations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1695" RevisionGUID="dfb79d9f-c1b5-4fd2-9f4e-6dd56fb5c83e" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:58:07.717" UserId="1393" Text="Looking for lightweight portable WiFi router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1695" RevisionGUID="dfb79d9f-c1b5-4fd2-9f4e-6dd56fb5c83e" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:58:07.717" UserId="1393" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1697" RevisionGUID="3e260eed-424d-47f1-9800-0c3220add762" CreationDate="2016-01-03T10:46:57.187" UserId="1190" Text="I have 2 PCs (1 personal, 1 company), an Amazon FireTV and a Raspberry Pi 2. All those devices have HDMI output. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being a software developer, I need high resolution for the PCs. At the moment I use 2 monitors with 1280x1024, but IMHO FullHD would be sufficient as a minimum resolution. Higher resolution probably preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The FireTV supports 4k, but I can't see the advantage of 4k yet. FullHD is nice enough. From the description, it seems I need HDCP 2.2 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am sitting in front of the monitor at a distance of .8 to 1 meter, so the size in inches should probably not be too large. Right now I have 2 monitors with 17&quot;, which is ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* FullHD or higher resolution&#xD;&#xA;* 4 HDMI inputs in total&#xD;&#xA;* 1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2&#xD;&#xA;* switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* operation without remote control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't necessarily need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* short reaction times, since I'll not do game play with it&#xD;&#xA;* 3D support&#xD;&#xA;* other inputs (although a standard D-Sub VGA input would be nice - who knows what it'll be good for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I don't care about the price yet. I just want to find a monitor that has 4 HDMI inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried: finding a monitor on Amazon. From my filter there are 174 monitors to review and while I can specify HDMI, I can't specify the amount of inputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1697" RevisionGUID="3e260eed-424d-47f1-9800-0c3220add762" CreationDate="2016-01-03T10:46:57.187" UserId="1190" Text="FullHD+ monitor with 4 HDMI inputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1697" RevisionGUID="3e260eed-424d-47f1-9800-0c3220add762" CreationDate="2016-01-03T10:46:57.187" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1700" RevisionGUID="e7479df2-bc46-4c80-aa77-8a101a8ff3c7" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:04:41.470" UserId="1364" Text="Well, considering the fact that you have need to charge other phones the phone must have a huge battery. The new Gionee Marathon M5 will definitely suit your needs with a humongous capacity of 6020mAh. The phone runs Android L out of the box and boasts an AMOLED display. It comes of a surprise that Gionee has managed to fit that humongous battery in an 8.5 mm thick shell (consider it a bonus). It also has an OTG(On the go) cable for charging other devices. There is also another device manufacturer called Oukitel (Chinese) which made this Oukitel K10000. I din't recommend this because it had very performance and a bad display.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1694" RevisionGUID="97cd72c5-fb56-42e4-84c4-c5f7a9710366" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:15:04.270" UserId="54" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm seeking a &lt;=10 AMP wall-outlet heating element that can rapidly heat 300-1200 grams of water to 205 degree Fahrenheit, attached to the side of a glass container.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just purchased [this one][1], but it's bigger than I thought it was going to be.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two other similar, but smaller ones on Amazon that will not work because they are too short - they're less than 3 inches or so.  The device should work for varied water levels: something like 2-6 inches or so.  Most of this type of element will burn up if used without being submerged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BDB4UG&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BVCxum.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1694" RevisionGUID="363db09a-57e8-44a2-ba15-06578e686960" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:12:10.130" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6153" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="9a9842bb-2f56-4223-ba3c-ab86afb88c07" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:39:14.973" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://ham.stackexchange.com/questions/5650/are-there-any-usb-microphones-under-10-that-will-record-talking-volume-sound-2" />
  <row Id="6154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="7e7cb16f-4627-47d6-8d9e-271ac292dbeb" CreationDate="2016-01-03T05:12:47.190" UserDisplayName="jake9115" Text="I have several small USB microphones, which work just fine as long as my mouth is within a few inches of the mic's input. However, I am looking for a small and cheap microphone (under $10 from somewhere like Amazon) that doesn't require such close proximity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any such cheap USB microphones that can record normal volume speaking that takes place 2-3 meters away from the mic? I'm not sure if there is particular term for such a microphone, but feel free to help out with jargon. Thanks for any suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="7e7cb16f-4627-47d6-8d9e-271ac292dbeb" CreationDate="2016-01-03T05:12:47.190" UserDisplayName="jake9115" Text="Are there any USB microphones under $10 that will record talking-volume sound 2-3 meters away?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="7e7cb16f-4627-47d6-8d9e-271ac292dbeb" CreationDate="2016-01-03T05:12:47.190" UserDisplayName="jake9115" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="6f5b71df-306c-44cd-8645-44c51fe75d23" CreationDate="2016-01-04T04:33:34.917" UserId="57" Comment="Remove meta comments and retag" Text="I have several small USB microphones, which work just fine as long as my mouth is within a few inches of the mic's input. However, I am looking for a small and cheap microphone (under $10 from somewhere like Amazon) that doesn't require such close proximity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any such cheap USB microphones that can record normal volume speaking that takes place 2-3 meters away from the mic? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="6f5b71df-306c-44cd-8645-44c51fe75d23" CreationDate="2016-01-04T04:33:34.917" UserId="57" Comment="Remove meta comments and retag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1703" RevisionGUID="5caf5253-52d0-47ac-8e96-c89e59e35d1a" CreationDate="2016-01-04T08:47:32.157" UserId="1366" Text="If you are thinking about **Xiami Redmi Note 2** you have to know that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has removable battery &#xD;&#xA; - It uses [MIUI][1], it is operating system based on Android but developed by Xiaomi Tech.&#xD;&#xA; - It is important to check which kind of screen you will get Tianma or Oppo. Tianma screen is kind of yellow in comparition to other phones. [XDA Developers thread][2] about this problem.&#xD;&#xA; - It is dual SIM and can use microSD card with both SIM cards. (no hybrid slot for second card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIUI&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-2/general/how-to-check-screen-t3196219" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1697" RevisionGUID="a9ba6a46-25d1-48ce-8120-ceadf8e73fa8" CreationDate="2016-01-04T09:00:43.887" UserId="1190" Comment="Add DisplayPort as an option" Text="I have 2 PCs (1 personal, 1 company), an Amazon FireTV and a Raspberry Pi 2. All those devices have HDMI output. My company laptop has Display Port as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being a software developer, I need high resolution for the PCs. At the moment I use 2 monitors with 1280x1024, but IMHO FullHD would be sufficient as a minimum resolution. Higher resolution probably preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The FireTV supports 4k, but I can't see the advantage of 4k yet. FullHD is nice enough. From the description, it seems I need HDCP 2.2 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am sitting in front of the monitor at a distance of .8 to 1 meter, so the size in inches should probably not be too large. Right now I have 2 monitors with 17&quot;, which is ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* FullHD or higher resolution&#xD;&#xA;* 4 inputs in total (4 HDMI or 3 HDMI + 1 DP)&#xD;&#xA;* 1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2&#xD;&#xA;* switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* operation without remote control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't necessarily need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* short reaction times, since I'll not do game play with it&#xD;&#xA;* 3D support&#xD;&#xA;* other inputs (although a standard D-Sub VGA input would be nice - who knows what it'll be good for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I don't care about the price yet. I just want to find a monitor that has 4 HDMI inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried: finding a monitor on Amazon. From my filter there are 174 monitors to review and while I can specify HDMI, I can't specify the amount of inputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1704" RevisionGUID="aff9fef3-db9b-4e41-afa8-daf0471a33be" CreationDate="2016-01-04T09:18:32.897" UserId="1366" Text="#[Roccat Lua][1]#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cost: 20$ on Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA; - 2000dpi optical Sensor&#xD;&#xA; - 60 ips maximum speed&#xD;&#xA; - 20G acceleration       &#xD;&#xA; - 1000Hz polling rate          &#xD;&#xA; - 1.8m USB cable&#xD;&#xA; - No-sweat side grips&#xD;&#xA; - 2D scroll wheel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm actually using this mice and if you are looking for standard 3 button + scroll wheel mouse which is good for gaming, Roccat Lua is really good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.roccat.org/en-US/Products/Gaming-Mice/Lua/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1705" RevisionGUID="9c857f00-9004-4536-9218-54f9e53c761a" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:01:11.727" UserId="1366" Text="I'm looking for two kind of fans which I will mount in [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white)][1]. I'm looking for quitest fans meeting following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. First one (back out fan): &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - 140mm&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - black case&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - white proppeler&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - cold white led light&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - [example fan: Phanteks PH-F140SP LED][2]&#xD;&#xA;         &#xD;&#xA; 2. Second one (2 x top out fans):&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - 140mm&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - black case&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - white proppeler&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; - [example fan: Phanteks PH-F140XP][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP-LED.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1705" RevisionGUID="9c857f00-9004-4536-9218-54f9e53c761a" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:01:11.727" UserId="1366" Text="Quiet 140 mm (black case + white propeller) case fans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1705" RevisionGUID="9c857f00-9004-4536-9218-54f9e53c761a" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:01:11.727" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1700" RevisionGUID="f061be8f-3140-4789-85e3-626e97a5a517" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:04:15.537" UserId="1364" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Well, considering the fact that you have need to charge other phones the phone must have a huge battery. The new Gionee Marathon M5 will definitely suit your needs with a humongous capacity of 6020mAh. The phone runs Android L out of the box and boasts an AMOLED display. It comes of a surprise that Gionee has managed to fit that humongous battery in an 8.5 mm thick shell (consider it a bonus). It also has an OTG(On the go) cable for charging other devices. There is also another device manufacturer called Oukitel (Chinese) which made the Oukitel K10000. I didn't recommend this because it had very low performance and a bad display.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="b04b69c5-08ce-4fcb-8e48-bf55da12b67b" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:07:38.057" UserId="1407" Text="I've tryed to &quot;upgrade&quot; my WIN8.1 Dell precision M4700 to WIN10, but Intel ethernet chipset 82579LM does not support multiple VLAN in windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm lookin for an USB to Ethernet adapter that support multiple VLAN and have working windows 10 drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is somebody use this kind of adapter ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank's for your support." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="b04b69c5-08ce-4fcb-8e48-bf55da12b67b" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:07:38.057" UserId="1407" Text="USb to Ethernet Adapter supporting VLAN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="b04b69c5-08ce-4fcb-8e48-bf55da12b67b" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:07:38.057" UserId="1407" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1707" RevisionGUID="ea9f86a4-1196-4d36-84f3-dd529636494e" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:14:33.253" UserId="1364" Text="If it is okay for you to root the phone with very few easy steps as possible then mi's range of phones are the ones you must be looking for. MI does provide warranty for rooted devices in fact, there is an option in the security app to allow root permissions and sorta stuff and it is priced fairly compared to the Fair phone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ALL you have to do is download a file which Mi offers on its website after registering yourself. Follow the instructions and boot into the boot loader of the device and install the zip file you downloaded and reboot your device to the normal state to enjoy your rooted phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1521" RevisionGUID="d05b7b3f-dd47-4645-bc37-b754395c99e1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:19:25.873" UserId="203" Comment="Added USB 3 drive" Text="I recommend the Pioneer 6x Silver External Slim Portable USB 3.0 BD/DVD/CD Burner Model BDR-XD05S, currently [$85 + $2 shipping at newegg.com][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compatible with USB 3 Super Speed mode, which virtually guarantees the burner will work at full, rated speed. It does, however, require a second USB port *if* the drive is connected via USB 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If price is a issue, the SAMSUNG USB 2.0 Slim Portable Blu-ray Writer [($70 + $2 shipping at newegg.com)][2] is a cheaper option that lacks support for quad layer Blu-ray (according to newegg anyway) and amd USB Super Speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a single port model, which means that you won't have any trouble with compatibility. Unfortunately, it only supports USB 2.0 (High Speed), so if you were burning a movie, it could take a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://Pioneer%206x%20Silver%20External%20Slim%20Portable%20USB%203.0%20BD/DVD/CD%20Burner%20Model%20BDR-XD05S&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151272&amp;cm_re=external_blu_ray_drive-_-27-151-272-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1709" RevisionGUID="58855bc8-7586-47a9-ad8b-449c748d34b0" CreationDate="2016-01-04T13:25:48.510" UserId="1410" Text="I am looking for a very cheap &amp; cheerful NAS housing. Just gets the job done, with no frills.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found some, but they run a 32bit Linux which limits the max disk size (to 16tB, IIRC). I would prefer not to have such a restriction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer not have any raid at all (not even RAID 0), so that if one drive fails, I won't have major recovery problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a cheap 4 (possibly even 2) bay solution in the UK (or with cheap shipping &amp; customs duty) to United Kingdom?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or would I be better simply using a cheap PC (or even a Raspberry Pi - if I can somehow attach that many hard drives) as a file server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1709" RevisionGUID="58855bc8-7586-47a9-ad8b-449c748d34b0" CreationDate="2016-01-04T13:25:48.510" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap &amp; cheerful NAS housing for 4 @ 8tB (delivery to UK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1709" RevisionGUID="58855bc8-7586-47a9-ad8b-449c748d34b0" CreationDate="2016-01-04T13:25:48.510" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1711" RevisionGUID="73c517d6-2c5f-4d8f-b4ae-cf9895e4e682" CreationDate="2016-01-04T14:31:20.840" UserId="743" Text="A little bit of &quot;life&quot; intervened, and I ended up going with a solution from Synology, their [DS215j](https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/DS215j). I confirmed that it supported SSDs before ordering both it and a set of SSDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NAS and one SSD showed up first, so I plugged them all in so that I could start moving music and pictures over (with the hopes that Synology's software feature of expandable &quot;hybrid&quot; RAID would work correctly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One minor hiccup I ran into was not knowing whether I needed Synology's &quot;optional 2.5&quot; Disk Holder Type C&quot;. I had ordered the NAS from Amazon (listed as their #1 North America online merchant), and didn't notice a Disk Holder as being part of the standard shipment, nor as a suggested add-on, so I (needlessly) purchased a &quot;2.5 to 3.5 Inches Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit&quot;. Turns out that the mounting kit pushes the SSD too far away from the connector, so I made do with some packing plastic and the screws that I could line up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NAS came online on my LAN with no issue -- plugged directly into the upstream router -- and was easily discoverable with the &quot;find.synology.com&quot; web assistant. I set it up and was online with it quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The DS215j features three fan speed modes: &quot;Cool&quot;, &quot;Quiet&quot;, and &quot;Low-power&quot;. I'd have to refer to the manual, but with SSDs and the NAS sitting in the basement, I've had good luck with &quot;Low-power&quot; mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Synology NAS is easy enough to use; the standard setup was enough to get me going, but there is an accessible CLI for when I want to tinker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reliability question will have to wait, but so far so good!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as expandability, the Synology Hybrid Raid has proven to go from &quot;RAID-1 with 1 drive&quot; to &quot;RAID-1 with 2 drives&quot;, and promises to allow for expandable replacement drives (once the second SSD arrived, I shut the NAS down and installed it, similarly to the first). I haven't had to test the expandable-drive promise, but given the flexibility it has already shown, I suspect that it will be able to grow as I need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as transfer speeds go, I haven't done precise timing tests; I had a large amount of data to move, and only one &quot;source&quot; (the original laptop), so it was going to take as long as it was going to take. I have noticed that there is a slight pause in iTunes when requesting playback of a larger file (above 5 Mb) - it appears to me that iTunes wants to buffer enough of the file that it results in a noticeable delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="330a30e1-2705-4bd2-8eab-2c79d8997fae" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:51:31.680" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="I've tried to &quot;upgrade&quot; my WIN8.1 Dell precision M4700 to WIN10, but Intel ethernet chipset 82579LM does not support multiple VLAN in windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an USB to Ethernet adapter that support multiple VLAN and have working windows 10 drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is somebody using this kind of adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1628" RevisionGUID="52499aca-ec1e-458a-a25d-f24203b486b0" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:46:05.660" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1713" RevisionGUID="e1189657-7f27-44c6-9d59-9d9eb6d5e662" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:12:51.720" UserId="1415" Text="What would be a good pinhole camera to record an iphone screen at a distance of 5-8 m and be able to read the information on the screen? We have tried some pinhole cameras already but without any success. The iphone screen can barely be seen at that distance let alone read its contents." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1713" RevisionGUID="e1189657-7f27-44c6-9d59-9d9eb6d5e662" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:12:51.720" UserId="1415" Text="pinhole hidden camera to read phone screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1713" RevisionGUID="e1189657-7f27-44c6-9d59-9d9eb6d5e662" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:12:51.720" UserId="1415" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="f16e58ba-b74e-4d71-a76c-022215884095" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:36:54.843" UserId="57" Comment="adds budge information" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card for Linux gaming. I don't need flagship performance, but still high end. I want to play, for example, some of the top titles on Steam, and perhaps use the same card in Windows with an Oculus Rift kit (which requires nVidia GTX 970 or AMD 290). I want to strike a balance between price, performance, and the following must-have requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance and stability using proprietary Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with GNOME 3.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with Debian (i.e. installing proprietary drivers and keeping them up to date is straightforward and doesn't mess up the package system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have: at least decent performance and good stability with Open Source drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Related, but not the same: [this question][1] asks for graphics card recommendations for non-gaming purposes, using Open Source drivers.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around 400€ or less, but I'm definitely willing to explore something a bit more expensive if there's a good reason. At the same time, I obviously don't want to spend all of that if I can get nearly the same performance for a proportionately smaller sum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1273/graphics-card-that-works-well-with-linux-open-source-drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1714" RevisionGUID="f4971bde-383d-45e1-8275-57ad9f0e9006" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:40:05.567" UserId="241" Text="You're going to need something custom-built.  A back-of-the-envelope calculation says that to read an iPhone screen at 8 meters, you need a lens with a 50mm-equivalent focal length of 1000mm.  Lenses that long are available for DSLRs and a few point-and-shoot cameras, but not for anything smaller.  Expect to spend between tens of thousands and hundreds of thousands of dollars, depending on the quality of image you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you've got contacts with one of the major intelligence agencies (CIA, MI6, FIS, etc.), you might see about borrowing some of their hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="1781331b-e399-4377-99e0-ab13067cf1a3" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:45:13.587" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="I've tried to &quot;upgrade&quot; my Windows 8.1 Dell Precision M4700 to Windows 10, but Intel Ethernet chipset 82579LM does not support multiple VLANs in Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs and has a working Windows 10 driver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is somebody using this kind of adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="1781331b-e399-4377-99e0-ab13067cf1a3" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:45:13.587" UserId="199" Comment="copy edited" Text="USB to Ethernet adapter supporting VLAN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="1781331b-e399-4377-99e0-ab13067cf1a3" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:45:13.587" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1716" RevisionGUID="848ad621-97b5-421d-83e6-d9c294a4f111" CreationDate="2016-01-05T04:44:06.520" UserId="531" Text="I've posted another [answer and pictures here][1] but I'd recommend the crossover 289K. I got mine for ~350usd from an ebay&#xD;&#xA;seller called dream-seller though if you're us based there might be cheaper options to buy it from&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its 28&quot; but meets *most* of the specifications. I've got no way to check for HDCP 2.2 support and I cannot confirm that it supports it. Information on support is, to put it mildly, as clear as mud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FullHD or higher resolution: 4K60hz Above spec but its not a terribly pricy monitor&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;4 inputs in total (4 HDMI or 3 HDMI + 1 DP) 3HDMI 2.0 and 1 DP port, all supporting 4K60. One 1080p VGA input for legacy gear  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2 Unsure - there's no way to check. Nvidia reports it suggests HDCP but not what version. I'll be glad to run any reasonable check that can be run on a windows box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot; Hit select, pick an input, hit select again. Really nice OSD, though button placement is *behind* the screen to save on bezel space. Nice large buttons    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;operation without remote control  Optional remote - which I love to bits. I just hit source to switch sources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/682/28-tft-for-under-350/709#709" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1716" RevisionGUID="63f52002-4122-49b4-8f7e-fcffb78abb21" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:22:34.693" UserId="531" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="I've posted another [answer and pictures here][1] but I'd recommend the crossover 289K. I got mine for ~350usd from an ebay&#xD;&#xA;seller called dream-seller though if you're us based there might be cheaper options to buy it from&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its 28&quot; but meets *most* of the specifications. I've got no way to check for HDCP 2.2 support and I cannot confirm that it supports it. Information on support is, to put it mildly, as clear as mud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FullHD or higher resolution: 4K60hz Above spec but its not a terribly pricy monitor&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;4 inputs in total: (4 HDMI or 3 HDMI + 1 DP) 3HDMI 2.0 and 1 DP port, all supporting 4K60. One 1080p VGA input for legacy gear  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2: &lt;strike&gt;Unsure - there's no way to check. Nvidia reports it suggests HDCP but not what version. I'll be glad to run any reasonable check that can be run on a windows box.&lt;/strike&gt; Their horribly designed website suggests it does support it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot;: Hit select, pick an input with the arrow buttons, hit select again. Really nice OSD, though button placement is *behind* the screen to save on bezel space. Nice large buttons  and I didn't have too many issues hitting the correct one. Heck it was easier than the side buttons on my old dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;operation without remote control:  Optional remote - which I love to bits. I just hit source to switch sources. Very handy when caliberating the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/682/28-tft-for-under-350/709#709" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="5567cc59-ea2a-4a97-8e14-f774ac168cc7" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:36:37.553" UserId="531" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up a [Crossover 289K][4], sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've *not* gotten a chance to test this with a HDMI 2.0 source (I should, but I'm lazy) and I'm still in the process of caliberating it manually - Its acceptable out of the box but I'm trying to match it with my other monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 3 x HDMI 2.0 (one of which does MHL) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player. It also supports HCDP 2.0 though there's no way for me to check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. Colour caliberation went a long way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like many of these cheap screens, it seems to have some degree of backlight bleed, but this is primarily obvious in perfect darkness and I'm planning on experimenting with bias lighting to see if it helps. Would still totally recommend this as a second monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&amp;pg=289k&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1716" RevisionGUID="9f058f52-7ad8-42cd-9a6c-9e40de347239" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:38:23.127" UserId="531" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="I've posted another [answer and pictures here][1] but I'd recommend the [crossover 289K][2]. I got mine for ~350usd from an ebay&#xD;&#xA;seller called dream-seller though if you're us based there might be cheaper options to buy it from&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its 28&quot; but meets *most* of the specifications. I've got no way to check for HDCP 2.2 support and I cannot confirm that it supports it. Information on support is, to put it mildly, as clear as mud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FullHD or higher resolution: 4K60hz Above spec but its not a terribly pricy monitor&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;4 inputs in total: (4 HDMI or 3 HDMI + 1 DP) 3HDMI 2.0 and 1 DP port, all supporting 4K60. One 1080p VGA input for legacy gear  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2: &lt;strike&gt;Unsure - there's no way to check. Nvidia reports it suggests HDCP but not what version. I'll be glad to run any reasonable check that can be run on a windows box.&lt;/strike&gt; Their horribly designed website suggests it does support it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot;: Hit select, pick an input with the arrow buttons, hit select again. Really nice OSD, though button placement is *behind* the screen to save on bezel space. Nice large buttons  and I didn't have too many issues hitting the correct one. Heck it was easier than the side buttons on my old dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;operation without remote control:  Optional remote - which I love to bits. I just hit source to switch sources. Very handy when caliberating the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/682/28-tft-for-under-350/709#709&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&amp;pg=289k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1717" RevisionGUID="deef4fc7-00cf-4146-99a1-71ce77edde0a" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:53:00.503" UserId="1329" Text="It's the second time I read a praise or speculation about how Lightning-connected headphones will improve &quot;audiophile&quot; experience, this time in English:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Apple's Lightning connector — standard across modern iPods, iPhones, and iPads — could be the catalyst for a dramatic change. There are already Lightning headphones from Philips and Audeze, whose advantage over conventional wired cans is in sending a digital signal to an integrated amp and converter inside the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[The Verge: What to expect CES 2016][1]&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Is a mobile audiophile experience possible and practical?**&#xD;&#xA;- **Does Lightning play a key role?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/1/10695954/what-to-expect-ces-2016" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1717" RevisionGUID="deef4fc7-00cf-4146-99a1-71ce77edde0a" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:53:00.503" UserId="1329" Text="Headphones: 3.5mm, Bluetooth or Lightning-connected?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1717" RevisionGUID="deef4fc7-00cf-4146-99a1-71ce77edde0a" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:53:00.503" UserId="1329" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1718" RevisionGUID="1604eb40-1080-4ec3-9251-a6c878182a7a" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:53:00.503" UserId="1329" Text="# Bluetooth compared to 3.5mm CTIA TRRS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically if A2DP is [transparent][1] for you why would you replace it with a standard cable or even a proprietary one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another question named [3.5mm Analog Audio vs. Bluetooth Audio Quality][2] has been perfectly answered on SuperUser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Lightning cables as a DAC/Amp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm not an Apple customer, I believe that Apple *could* bring a change to the market, however till now it looks as constructed as the rumors about an Apple smart TV and not like solution that Apple (or some other company with another connector) intends to promote actively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones mentioned are the Philips Fidelio M2L (based on the inexpensive Fidelio M1 series) and the *AMP/DAC/DSP Apple Lightning cable*¹ for the Audeze EL-8 which has been offered with the closed back version in a *titanium*-colored variant for a few weeks.  The M2L looks like it has **no replaceable cable**, here is a comparison with the M1BTBL:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrating the DAC into the M2L cable (or similar products) and putting a 3.5mm plug on the other end would be possible and great for compatibility² but increase the price of DAC replacement cables (you probably get a new Fidelio M1 for the price) and generate questions from customers who have unfounded doubts about the 3.5mm plug.³  Proprietary connectors on the headphones themselves are accepted for products in higher price ranges and ensure compatibility with a variety of jacks on different devices, but mainstream product designs seem to be increasingly **optimized for incompatibility and obsolescence**.⁴&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products that rely on only one connector type that isn't 3.5mm TRS/[TRRS][4] appear to be very short lived to me. You may find adapters, but that wouldn't be very practical.  The 3.5mm jacks and plugs are very durable and have been around for a long time, Microsoft even moved from 2.5mm to standard 3.5mm TRRS with their Xbox One and Sony has them on their PS4 too.  The missing headphone jack on the [HTC Dream][5] was probably the biggest anti-feature.  I'd rather recommend Bluetooth headphones with an optional 3.5mm analog jack, this way you get an integrated DAC and flexibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's more to consider: **Your next primary or personal communication device may not even have a Lightning-port or USB-port at all and connects completely wireless.**  If the size of the 3.5mm plug actually becomes an issue for designing new ground breaking products then *no* physical connector would be the answer and we're almost there with smartwatches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Conclusion and recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you encounter this or a similar topic check *who* promotes *what*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone reviewing *consumer* hardware with **a favor for a different connector for audio is not [objective][6]**.  It's also inconsistent and appears to be overexcited when there was nothing to complain about 3.5mm plugs or Bluetooth with aptX in the ecosystem (Apple) before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may find that the Lightning or whatever version doesn't sound significantly better than the Bluetooth version or better at all. Save the money for a product in the next tier or for something completely different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't matter if you prefer bass, mids or highs. If you prefer not carrying an additional device with you, that's fine too but has limitations.⁵  In any case get the most objective or reasonable playback device or sound source and the headphones with sound signatures you prefer for your music, then do your ABX listening tests. You will be confident with the decision you made and that should matter the most to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Now called [Cipher][7].  I feel a little betrayed here, I shouldn't have searched for material on the web when writing this to find a fresh uploaded promotional video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I carry both the M1BTBL and M-100 around with only one cable and I get the most out of that setup. (Even more with an aptX dongle and a mobile DAC/Amp.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Analog connectors with better electrical characteristics have been available for a long time and implemented in professional equipment, but there is no need for these in the consumer market.  Also related: [Is there sound quality loss in 6mm to 3.5mm TRS adapter?][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. A coworker has the standard M1 and left them for a short while in the car during summer, the glued cushion seams on this model ripped and cannot be replaced.  Another thing is that Bluetooth headphones typically don't feature mechanisms to replace the battery, though a replaceable cover with a battery to twist or screw off doesn't seem to be impossible to implement in most designs and is still stylish for a fashion item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. The EL-8 cable looks like a good idea to give you the optimal mobile experience on an iDevice, but they are still a heavy pair of cans for a walk around the city and if you have the habit to bang your head with the music or just sway to music while sitting down at home you're not getting the optimal performance when they bounce on your head creating pressure variations that interfere with the very sensitive diaphragms doing their work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Transparency_%28data_compression%29&amp;oldid=692837933&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/q/464388/252532&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8SY7J.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phone_connector_%28audio%29&amp;oldid=696979593#TRRS_standards&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=HTC_Dream&amp;oldid=697529763&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/05/subjective-vs-objective-debate.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_52Tw02RD88&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://sound.stackexchange.com/q/31734/8112" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1720" RevisionGUID="c10ea6fb-2a1a-4d63-a0e6-5000314ca1e6" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:10:56.350" UserId="226" Text="I'm looking for a WLAN-Router with integrated DSL-Modem (ADSL) which is supported by OpenWRT. Currently running a TP-Link WR4300 which is not having DSL integrated. The provider is suggesting FRITZ!Box 7490 but I really don't want to have non free (as in Freedom) hardware at this part of my home network.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1720" RevisionGUID="c10ea6fb-2a1a-4d63-a0e6-5000314ca1e6" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:10:56.350" UserId="226" Text="What is a good WLAN Router with DSL-Modem for OpenWRT" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1720" RevisionGUID="c10ea6fb-2a1a-4d63-a0e6-5000314ca1e6" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:10:56.350" UserId="226" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="c7e9ac3d-5d71-424d-a602-c6f556c0291b" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:46:20.770" UserId="1410" Text="As an alternative to WiFi, should I consider Ethernet over  power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I presume that there are trade-offs between price and quality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be considering this for an average size UK living room, with one router and 3 PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be used 80 to 90% for internet access, so only needs to match or beat WiFi speeds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the rest of  the time, two laptops would be using it to back up to a file server PC, so that more bandwidth would be welcome. Although, once the first backup of everything is done, backups would be mirror backup, monitoring the file system and updating individual files as they change. So that might not be such a major consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend for UK home use, and where should I buy it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="c7e9ac3d-5d71-424d-a602-c6f556c0291b" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:46:20.770" UserId="1410" Text="Ethernet over power (UK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="c7e9ac3d-5d71-424d-a602-c6f556c0291b" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:46:20.770" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1723" RevisionGUID="41677546-517e-446c-a109-5ac8e9a2b7ce" CreationDate="2016-01-05T13:21:45.280" UserId="531" Text="I've used 3 different flavours of ethernet over power. Apparently its *seriously* dependant on your household power line quality, and other devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once I got it dialed in (and got slightly newer models than my homeplug AV 200 units), its fast and more importantly *very* reliable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More expensive adaptors support newer 'faster' standards, and practically speaking you're likely to get about 1/3 the speed listed (so a homeplug AV 100 would do ~30Mbps, and so on). However, the newer standards are likely to have better noise rejection and as such better reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good middle ground would be homeplug AV2 500 gear.AV2 200 is more sensitive to noise, and my washing machine would trip it off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things to look out for? Get *passthrough* devices since they *filter* noise from things plugged into it, and don't hog a socket. Some tuning and repositioning needs to be better. If you're running this in a living room, consider units with more than one ethernet socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I don't use them now, I'd recommend TP-link's adaptors (I upgraded to a newer standard from another manufacturer - they're great but not widely available). They also have fairly intuitive, user friendly configuration software (though since all the chipsets are made by the same companies, I used it with my gear from other brands as well), which is handy if you want to set it up right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its great for backups (which is what I use it for) and getting wired connections to odd places. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe this is the two pack for the model [I have][1] now. Amazon UK seems to have a good range of them. Not too sure what's the best place for them in the UK, we share a plug type, but we have different retailers in singapore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tp-link.sg/products/details/cat-18_TL-PA4010PKIT.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="51438277-5cd3-4e4e-81d2-121cadac93e0" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:43:47.660" UserId="57" Comment="Remove initial opinion question" Text="I am considering ethernet over power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I presume that there are trade-offs between price and quality versus standard wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be considering this for an average size UK living room, with one router and 3 PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be used 80 to 90% for internet access, so only needs to match or beat WiFi speeds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the rest of  the time, two laptops would be using it to back up to a file server PC, so that more bandwidth would be welcome. Although, once the first backup of everything is done, backups would be mirror backup, monitoring the file system and updating individual files as they change. So that might not be such a major consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend for UK home use, and where should I buy it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="ce486373-7241-4f45-b90c-835240a2c6b5" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:51:20.450" UserId="1420" Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a computer, a portable disk drive or similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="ce486373-7241-4f45-b90c-835240a2c6b5" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:51:20.450" UserId="1420" Text="Optical media carousel for reading DVD-R and CD-R disks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="ce486373-7241-4f45-b90c-835240a2c6b5" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:51:20.450" UserId="1420" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="ced764a6-53ae-4d84-9162-95b798cec702" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:03:34.190" UserId="1420" Text="I'm considering buying eight DVD-R drives and controller-card(s) for extracting data off hundreds of CD-Rs and DVD-Rs. Most of my DVD-Rs are 16x or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To obtain full throughput to the filesystem when all drives are reading at the same time, what kind of hardware should I have or buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="ced764a6-53ae-4d84-9162-95b798cec702" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:03:34.190" UserId="1420" Text="Hardware for extracting data from eight DVD-Rs at the same time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="ced764a6-53ae-4d84-9162-95b798cec702" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:03:34.190" UserId="1420" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="fda93253-d88e-41ba-a1f1-2f80512ad155" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:24:51.120" UserId="1420" Comment="links to alternative hardware rec. question" Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD-R/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a computer, a portable disk drive or similar.&#xD;&#xA;To be just as good as  http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1728/142 the reader should be capable of reading at 16x, and number of slots should be at least eight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="fda93253-d88e-41ba-a1f1-2f80512ad155" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:24:51.120" UserId="1420" Comment="links to alternative hardware rec. question" Text="Optical media carousel for reading DVD-R and CD-R disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="b42cf338-8a29-48f8-bd15-690b0ed653d3" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:35:38.313" UserId="1428" Text="I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horse power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What i would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest what's the best possible economical way to connect these two servers so that i can keep my VMs on DL320 G6 and run them from DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My DL320 G5 does have a PCIe slot (occupied by Smart Array controller with external SAS port for expandability) not sure if something can be done with this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not enough&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am new to this so please pardon me if i am doing anything wrong, I added two tags not sure what else to add&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="b42cf338-8a29-48f8-bd15-690b0ed653d3" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:35:38.313" UserId="1428" Text="Connecting Two HP Servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="b42cf338-8a29-48f8-bd15-690b0ed653d3" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:35:38.313" UserId="1428" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="385e3a9f-fe30-4563-8a23-6fa28eb53708" CreationDate="2016-01-06T04:01:19.907" UserId="1420" Comment="Added Digistore Solutions CHUB-DSS and edited the requirements for OS." Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD-R/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a OS X, Linux or Windows 7 computer, a portable disk drive or to a NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be just as good as http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1728/142 the reader should be capable of reading at 16x, and number of slots should be at least eight, prices should be below $200, as that would probably be the cost of stacking eight DVD-Rs in one of my computers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the Digistore Solutions CHUB-DSS Centurion DiscHUB could have been an alternative, but this seems to be unsupported and a quite expensive product at $680:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.digistoresolutions.com/products/centurion-dischub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="d2ec7542-a17e-4200-812e-147f19c55c43" CreationDate="2016-01-06T04:07:19.167" UserId="1420" Comment="added 64-bit windows req." Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD-R/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a OS X, Linux or Windows 7 (64-bit) computer, a portable disk drive or to a NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be just as good as http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1728/142 the reader should be capable of reading at 16x, and number of slots should be at least eight, prices should be below $200, as that would probably be the cost of stacking eight DVD-Rs in one of my computers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the Digistore Solutions CHUB-DSS Centurion DiscHUB could have been an alternative, but this seems to be unsupported and a quite expensive product at $680:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.digistoresolutions.com/products/centurion-dischub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="3d7245ab-72af-4a2e-95b7-fc3db154278d" CreationDate="2016-01-06T14:16:29.173" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 120 characters in body" Text="I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horse power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What i would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest what's the best possible economical way to connect these two servers so that i can keep my VMs on DL320 G6 and run them from DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My DL320 G5 does have a PCIe slot (occupied by Smart Array controller with external SAS port for expandability) not sure if something can be done with this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not enough&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="95d956cc-7c54-46d2-8549-370cf7233409" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:22:49.017" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6273" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="141adf1a-532d-4bec-bac2-f3a21e315f42" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:23:36.573" UserId="1428" Comment="deleted 657 characters in body" Text="Besides using Gigabit ethernet to connect two server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What type of hardware component can one use for faster network speed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="c61914f6-2c69-45d3-a1f9-69448061528e" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:28:10.153" UserId="57" Comment="Rollback to [3d7245ab-72af-4a2e-95b7-fc3db154278d]" Text="I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horse power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What i would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest what's the best possible economical way to connect these two servers so that i can keep my VMs on DL320 G6 and run them from DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My DL320 G5 does have a PCIe slot (occupied by Smart Array controller with external SAS port for expandability) not sure if something can be done with this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not enough&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="a7e01194-baf7-4a2b-b919-039fde072a4c" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:36:53.527" UserId="1428" Comment="added 186 characters in body; edited tags" Text="**Backgrounds**&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horse power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What i would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not fast enough Things load slow&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions&#xD;&#xA;1. What kind of connectivity i can use which can have similar experience as if it's a DAS?&#xD;&#xA;2. Please suggest what's the best possible economical way to connect these two servers so that i can keep my VMs on DL320 G6 and run them from DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;3. My DL320 G5 does have a PCIe slot (occupied by Smart Array controller with external SAS port for expandability), Can this be used to connect two server?&#xD;&#xA;4. What do companies use in similar situation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="a7e01194-baf7-4a2b-b919-039fde072a4c" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:36:53.527" UserId="1428" Comment="added 186 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="8564d1be-1c5d-4bc7-960b-2d2f482e23a1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:39:49.340" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="**Backgrounds**&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horse power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What i would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not fast enough Things load slow&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What kind of connectivity i can use which can have similar experience as if it's a DAS?&#xD;&#xA;2. Please suggest what's the best possible economical way to connect these two servers so that i can keep my VMs on DL320 G6 and run them from DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;3. My DL320 G5 does have a PCIe slot (occupied by Smart Array controller with external SAS port for expandability), Can this be used to connect two server?&#xD;&#xA;4. What do companies use in similar situation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="4380b5b0-618e-487e-b7d0-b1f47c0ede33" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:45:27.477" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="**Background:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horsepower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not fast enough - things load slow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the most economical piece of hardware that I can use to connect these two machines. It needs to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- have a similar connectivity to a DAS&#xD;&#xA;- let me *store* VMs on the G6, and *run* them over the connection on the G5&#xD;&#xA;- be professional quality, if possible&#xD;&#xA;- have as low a price tag as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The G5 server has a PCIe slot; I had wondered if I could use this as a basis for the hardware. Bonus points if that's the case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="7407fe36-b07a-40c0-95cf-16be82224044" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:01:48.830" UserId="1433" Text="as you can read in the title I'm searching for a notebook that supports 32 Gb Ram. You can recommend one ore multipe (all notebooks with 32 Gb ram/ support you know) devices. It doesn't matter if the 32 Gb Ram are in the notebook already installed or it only supports 32 Gb Ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need so much Memory because I work a lot with virtualisation, virtual-machines, server, cloud-computing etc. I don't &quot;really&quot; need them for gaming, so it doesn't need a expensive graphic card but if there is one it doesn't make it worse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I only have a limited budget to buy it. Therefore, I'm searching for the cheapest one as possible with the best quality for that price. I was thinking between 600 and 1300 €/ $.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already tried to find something by myself. But with Google I only found a small number of very expensive gaming notebooks or mobile workstations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="7407fe36-b07a-40c0-95cf-16be82224044" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:01:48.830" UserId="1433" Text="List of notebooks that support 32 gb Ram" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="7407fe36-b07a-40c0-95cf-16be82224044" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:01:48.830" UserId="1433" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="79ee4300-cf71-44a7-8a04-775cf916f03c" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:53:27.077" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6284" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="3cd6b071-282d-4204-a18a-60bf6c181a39" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:58:58.450" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 172 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm searching for a notebook that supports 32 GB RAM. You can recommend one or multiple (all notebooks with 32 GB RAM support you know) devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already tried to find something by myself, but with Google I only found a small number of very expensive gaming notebooks or mobile workstations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Supports 32 GB RAM. Bonus points if it's pre-installed.&#xD;&#xA;- Between US$600 and $1300.&#xD;&#xA;- Sufficient processing power to run virtualisation stuff: VMs, servers, cloud computing software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any more than a basic graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't *mind* having anything that's *Not Required*, but it's non-essential and must meet the requirements first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="3cd6b071-282d-4204-a18a-60bf6c181a39" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:58:58.450" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 172 characters in body; edited title" Text="Notebook that supports 32 GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="a84b5b08-f852-4deb-8c8b-9ebcc8add72f" CreationDate="2016-01-07T04:29:36.227" UserId="1420" Comment="USB example" Text="I'm considering buying eight DVD-R drives and controller-card(s) for extracting data off hundreds of CD-Rs and DVD-Rs. Most of my DVD-Rs are 16x or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To obtain full throughput to the filesystem when all drives are reading at the same time, what kind of hardware should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this do? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 USB 2.0 HUBS : http://www.dx.com/p/m6988-b-power-socket-style-high-speed-480mbps-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-black-40cm-cable-173752#.Vo3l-DZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 USB DVD-R slot-in drives : http://www.dx.com/p/super-slim-usb-2-0-slot-in-dvdrw-external-optical-drive-for-macbook-silver-black-274392#.Vo3mWDZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="c4cedfb9-6f89-4c9c-8865-6a171054e831" CreationDate="2016-01-07T04:54:46.937" UserId="1420" Comment="cost change" Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD-R/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a OS X, Linux or Windows 7 (64-bit) computer, a portable disk drive or to a NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be just as good as http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1728/142 the reader should be capable of reading at 16x, and number of slots should be at least eight, prices should be below $300, as that would probably be the cost of hooking up eight DVD-Rs to one of my computers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the Digistore Solutions CHUB-DSS Centurion DiscHUB could have been an alternative, but this seems to be unsupported and a quite expensive product at $680:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.digistoresolutions.com/products/centurion-dischub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1735" RevisionGUID="ebd4d0fb-589f-44ba-80e1-d55eae9623fa" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:37:36.517" UserId="1437" Text="This might be comparing apples to oranges, but I know that one of these most likely gives a user a greater performance gain. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If given the chance to only have one: &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Which is more likely to give the bigger performance boost, i5 to i7 or HDD to SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1735" RevisionGUID="ebd4d0fb-589f-44ba-80e1-d55eae9623fa" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:37:36.517" UserId="1437" Text="Which is more likely to give the bigger performance boost, i5 to i7 or HDD to SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1735" RevisionGUID="ebd4d0fb-589f-44ba-80e1-d55eae9623fa" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:37:36.517" UserId="1437" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1736" RevisionGUID="e6af4e50-83b1-4258-82bf-5275567e54ea" CreationDate="2016-01-07T12:14:31.150" UserId="1366" Text=" - CPU upgrade should raise your PC performance in CPU dependent apllications and games.&#xD;&#xA; - HDD to SSD upgrade will significantly raise speed of opening/closing OS, running applications or copying files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that CPU upgrade will give bigger performance boost but HDD-&gt;SSD upgrade will reduce times of everyday operations like booting system, copying files, running applications. In my opinion SSD choice is better because difference will be more &quot;visible&quot; after changing HDD to SSD than i5 to i7." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1737" RevisionGUID="918de5ce-4bea-424d-9110-2203bc8f6052" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:31:48.313" UserId="1438" Text="(Preface: I'm not sure if this is the correct SE site for this question, but I could not find any other site where it would fit.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Acer R3 laptop running Windows 10 and would like to be able to have mobile data on it via a SIM card. Mi-Fi's, Mobile USB Dongles, etc. are not viable since my phone provider (Cricket, located in Maryland, USA) does not offer them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device available to do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1737" RevisionGUID="918de5ce-4bea-424d-9110-2203bc8f6052" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:31:48.313" UserId="1438" Text="Moble Internet via SIM Card on Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1737" RevisionGUID="918de5ce-4bea-424d-9110-2203bc8f6052" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:31:48.313" UserId="1438" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="28fc0621-ed48-4870-88bb-82565dd4386a" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:41:44.367" UserId="1439" Text="I am looking for a small monitor for my Retropie (it's basically a all in one console emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the monitor must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;* Built-in audio&#xD;&#xA;* Low price (&amp;lt;£100)&#xD;&#xA;* Raspberry Pi 2 compatibility&#xD;&#xA;* Small size&#xD;&#xA;* If possible, shipping to Estonia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="28fc0621-ed48-4870-88bb-82565dd4386a" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:41:44.367" UserId="1439" Text="Small monitor for Retropie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="28fc0621-ed48-4870-88bb-82565dd4386a" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:41:44.367" UserId="1439" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1737" RevisionGUID="36564875-0d27-4e8a-93eb-2ab4bc0ec6a9" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:55:50.060" UserId="57" Comment="Removes meta text" Text="I have a Acer R3 laptop running Windows 10 and would like to be able to have mobile data on it via a SIM card. Mi-Fi's, Mobile USB Dongles, etc. are not viable since my phone provider (Cricket, located in Maryland, USA) does not offer them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device available to do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1737" RevisionGUID="1d71626e-142b-408f-bc4d-3d6d2e2e430d" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:36:10.563" UserId="1438" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have a Acer R3-471T laptop running Windows 10 and would like to be able to have mobile data on it via a SIM card. Mi-Fi's, Mobile USB Dongles, etc. are not viable since my phone provider (Cricket, located in Maryland, USA) does not offer them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device available to do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="c1bced57-d4f9-405c-b1e6-88fda48b0566" CreationDate="2016-01-07T18:04:14.243" UserId="1433" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a notebook that supports 32 GB RAM. You can recommend one or multiple (all notebooks with 32 GB RAM support you know) devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already tried to find something by myself, but with Google I only found a small number of very expensive gaming notebooks or mobile workstations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Supports 32 GB RAM. Bonus points if it's pre-installed.&#xD;&#xA;- Between 600 and 1300 Dollar/ Euros.&#xD;&#xA;- Sufficient processing power to run virtualisation stuff: VMs, servers, cloud computing software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any more than a basic graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't *mind* having anything that's *Not Required*, but it's non-essential and must meet the requirements first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="e8ef2d12-0cc4-4aac-8767-ada654e75f10" CreationDate="2016-01-07T18:32:38.397" UserId="1439" Comment="clarification" Text="I am looking for a small monitor for my Retropie (it's basically a all in one console emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the monitor must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;* Built-in audio&#xD;&#xA;* Low price (&amp;lt;£100)&#xD;&#xA;* Raspberry Pi 2 compatibility&#xD;&#xA;* Small size (≤10in)&#xD;&#xA;* If possible, shipping to Estonia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="7cf98cd9-f763-42a1-8b05-fe7043c46826" CreationDate="2016-01-07T20:30:47.450" UserId="57" Comment="Striking the small size criteria. Didn't remove, because the user seems to still care a bit, but does say in the comments that it isn't important any more." Text="I am looking for a small monitor for my Retropie (it's basically a all in one console emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the monitor must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;* Built-in audio&#xD;&#xA;* Low price (&amp;lt;£100)&#xD;&#xA;* Raspberry Pi 2 compatibility&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;strike&gt;Small size (≤10in)&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;* If possible, shipping to Estonia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1735" RevisionGUID="dce72484-f667-44ee-9c0a-3268dda10c84" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:00:21.390" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="8eb8c7a8-f897-448b-9563-3e2641b10c94" CreationDate="2016-01-08T09:26:47.640" UserId="1375" Text="My laptop's internal wifi antenna is horrible. At my school especially, it can only connect half the time, and when it does, rarely actually assigns me an ip address. I'm looking for a usb adapter that can help me actually get wifi at school (and anywhere else i might need it too). I'm wary of doing this, because I already have a usb wifi dongle ([netgear wg111v3][1]), but it's pretty much as bad as my internal one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research, and narrowed it down to these two being best for my budget:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;[Hiro Adapter][2]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;[Panda Adapter][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: which one will give me better reception and reliability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://firmware.netgear-forum.com/ntgfirm/img/produit/WG111v2h1_back_lowres.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/H50194-Wireless-802-11n-Omnidirectional-External/dp/B003516BJU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="8eb8c7a8-f897-448b-9563-3e2641b10c94" CreationDate="2016-01-08T09:26:47.640" UserId="1375" Text="Which product will give a better wifi reception?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="8eb8c7a8-f897-448b-9563-3e2641b10c94" CreationDate="2016-01-08T09:26:47.640" UserId="1375" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1741" RevisionGUID="8919c439-2f27-4840-b875-826fbfa76131" CreationDate="2016-01-08T10:31:21.997" UserId="241" Text="From a pure numbers standpoint, the Hiro's 5dBi antenna beats the Panda's 2dBi antenna, and both beat the Netgear's tiny on-board antenna, so it's likely the Hiro will give you the best reception of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You don't specify your budget, but it looks like about $20-ish.  If you're willing to go up to $30, the [Alfa AWUS036NH][1] has a powerful transmitter paired with a 5dBi antenna.  I've connected to access points with one from as much as half a mile away.  Assuming you're correct that your connection problems are due to low signal levels (and not high noise levels), it's a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="8805f579-261e-46a9-ad0c-c5589f26d9d3" CreationDate="2016-01-08T12:56:29.583" UserId="987" Text="I'm in need for a new screen. so i've started looking for some screens but then I came the question: 21:9 or 1440p? After some digging around if found 2 screens i realy like. &lt;br&gt;One from Lg that is 21:9 1080P and Freesync support(not that i can use it but more on that). The other screen I found was Dell ultrasharp 1440P screen. Wich of the 2 is better for gaming and light programming. I will also be running a second 1080p screen of an 21&quot; size format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LG 29UM67 is a 1080P 21:9 screen this means it gets a resolution of about 2560x1080. it has a 75Hz refresh rate in freesync mode wich can be activated no watter what videocard you have on it. The format of the screen it 29&quot; so its not big nor small. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell Ultrasharp U2515H is a 1440P screen with an aspect ratio in about 16:9. It has a 60Hz refresh rate and a 6ms response time. the size of this screen is 25&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a Gtx 970 G1 gaming. so type doesn't matter.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="8805f579-261e-46a9-ad0c-c5589f26d9d3" CreationDate="2016-01-08T12:56:29.583" UserId="987" Text="Aspect ratio and resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="8805f579-261e-46a9-ad0c-c5589f26d9d3" CreationDate="2016-01-08T12:56:29.583" UserId="987" Text="&lt;screens&gt;&lt;resolution&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1744" RevisionGUID="9dedebc1-a128-4853-adc5-ce60461b8309" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:43:34.640" UserId="1444" Text="I'm searching for a good internal raid system for two SSDs and one for two HDDs. The housing of the SSDs and HDDs should be compatible with an external docking station, which I want to use for Backups. So I must also be able to buy extra housings for backup disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know a good solution, for this kind of setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prever easy use and quality over the cheapest solution, but if there is a cheap solution fullfilling my needs, I would choose this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;GiCo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1744" RevisionGUID="9dedebc1-a128-4853-adc5-ce60461b8309" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:43:34.640" UserId="1444" Text="SSD and HDD Internal Raid system compatible with external clone docking station" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1744" RevisionGUID="9dedebc1-a128-4853-adc5-ce60461b8309" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:43:34.640" UserId="1444" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="7b71d75a-5c66-4a61-97ba-77c3023a0e8f" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:55:28.187" UserId="987" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="I'm in need for a new screen. so i've started looking for some screens but then I came the question: 21:9 or 1440p? After some digging around if found 2 screens i realy like. &lt;br&gt;One from Lg that is 21:9 1080P and Freesync support(not that i can use it but more on that). The other screen I found was Dell ultrasharp 1440P screen. Wich of the 2 is better for gaming and light programming. I will also be running a second 1080p screen of an 21&quot; size format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LG 29UM67 is a 1080P 21:9 screen this means it gets a resolution of about 2560x1080. it has a 75Hz refresh rate in freesync mode wich can be activated no watter what videocard you have on it. The format of the screen it 29&quot; so its not big nor small. Without freesync the screen may get screen tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell Ultrasharp U2515H is a 1440P screen with an aspect ratio in about 16:9. It has a 60Hz refresh rate and a 6ms response time. the size of this screen is 25&quot;. I has problemems with backlight bleed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a Gtx 970 G1 gaming. so type doesn't matter.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="b270cbe1-f1eb-4a43-a047-e0683702767c" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:37:52.733" UserId="57" Comment="copyedits" Text="I'm in need for a new screen. I've started looking for some screens but then I came the question: 21:9 or 1440p? After some digging around if found 2 screens i really like. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One from Lg that is 21:9 1080P and Freesync support(not that i can use it but more on that). The other screen I found was Dell ultrasharp 1440P screen. Which of the 2 is better for gaming and light programming. I will also be running a second 1080p screen of an 21&quot; size format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LG 29UM67 is a 1080P 21:9 screen this means it gets a resolution of about 2560x1080. it has a 75Hz refresh rate in freesync mode which can be activated no matter what videocard you have on it. The format of the screen it 29&quot; so its not big nor small. Without freesync the screen may get screen tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell Ultrasharp U2515H is a 1440P screen with an aspect ratio in about 16:9. It has a 60Hz refresh rate and a 6ms response time. the size of this screen is 25&quot;. I have problems with back light bleed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a Gtx 970 G1 gaming, so type doesn't matter.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1744" RevisionGUID="8452cd69-9789-4a43-867d-1d0fa175b351" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:38:38.400" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 18 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a good internal raid system for two SSDs and one for two HDDs. The housing of the SSDs and HDDs should be compatible with an external docking station, which I want to use for Backups. So I must also be able to buy extra housings for backup disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know a good solution, for this kind of setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer easy use and quality over the cheapest solution, but if there is a cheap solution fulfilling my needs, I would choose this one.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="9bf0687c-63fe-4d33-bbea-7ac5d40f6c4f" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:41:56.653" UserId="987" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm in need for a new screen. I've started looking for some screens but then I came the question: 21:9 or 1440p? After some digging around if found 2 screens i really like. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One from Lg that is 21:9 1080P and Freesync support(not that i can use it but more on that). The other screen I found was Dell ultrasharp 1440P screen. Which of the 2 is better for gaming and light programming. I will also be running a second 1080p screen of an 21&quot; size format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LG 29UM67 is a 1080P 21:9 screen this means it gets a resolution of about 2560x1080. it has a 75Hz refresh rate in freesync mode which can be activated no matter what videocard you have on it. The format of the screen it 29&quot; so its not big nor small. Without freesync the screen may get screen tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell Ultrasharp U2515H is a 1440P screen with an aspect ratio in about 16:9. It has a 60Hz refresh rate and a 6ms response time. the size of this screen is 25&quot;. It has problems with back light bleed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a Gtx 970 G1 gaming, so type doesn't matter.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1738" RevisionGUID="e464a62b-7e04-4404-9322-065b6009e429" CreationDate="2016-01-08T16:59:55.577" UserId="1439" Comment="More clarification" Text="I am looking for a small monitor for my Retropie (it's basically a all in one console emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the monitor must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;* Low price (&amp;lt;£100)&#xD;&#xA;* Raspberry Pi 2 compatibility&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the monitor should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Built-in audio&#xD;&#xA;* Small size (≤10in)&#xD;&#xA;* Shipping to Estonia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1745" RevisionGUID="2377170a-ca74-4d8e-9d4a-7538ae826174" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:11:06.170" UserId="1448" Text="I'm looking for a NAS device for the purpose of running backups of several other machines. My current setup for this is a consumer PC with extra drives plugged in, but this is non-optimal for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want NAS hardware because consumer PC hardware with enough disk slots usually comes in an enormous case and requires expensive motherboards and so forth. This system does not need high hardware performance, and ideally would cost less than $500. However, I intend to install a standard Linux distribution on it (probably Arch) and handle all software requirements myself. Thus, I need a system on which it is easy to boot from a CD or USB and install a new OS. (My prior research suggests that many NASs require fiddling with the hardware to achieve this; I'd prefer to avoid that.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like at least four disk slots, and would prefer that it came diskless. I will connect it via Ethernet, and do not require any other network hardware. As mentioned above, it will be used only for periodic backups of other machines, which have live data; thus, the hardware performance other than network and disk bandwidth is mostly immaterial. And of course, because I will handle the software myself, I do not care about what software package it comes with, only that I can get rid of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1745" RevisionGUID="2377170a-ca74-4d8e-9d4a-7538ae826174" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:11:06.170" UserId="1448" Text="Low-cost NAS with easy OS installation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1745" RevisionGUID="2377170a-ca74-4d8e-9d4a-7538ae826174" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:11:06.170" UserId="1448" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1745" RevisionGUID="b87912b0-61a8-44f3-a59a-a8ae239505dd" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:36:58.297" UserId="1448" Comment="added 471 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a NAS device for the purpose of running backups of several other machines. My current setup for this is a consumer PC with extra drives plugged in, but this is non-optimal for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want NAS hardware because consumer PC hardware with enough disk slots usually comes in an enormous case and requires expensive motherboards and so forth. This system does not need high hardware performance, and ideally would cost less than $500. However, I intend to install a standard Linux distribution on it (probably Arch) and handle all software requirements myself. Thus, I need a system on which it is easy to boot from a CD or USB and install a new OS. (My prior research suggests that many NASs require fiddling with the hardware to achieve this; I'd prefer to avoid that.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like at least four disk slots, and would prefer that it came diskless. I will connect it via Ethernet, and do not require any other network hardware. As mentioned above, it will be used only for periodic backups of other machines, which have live data; thus, the hardware performance other than network and disk bandwidth is mostly immaterial. And of course, because I will handle the software myself, I do not care about what software package it comes with, only that I can get rid of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: The usual OS install process requires a video output, which is apparently rare on NAS hardware; however, it should also be possible to install over the network (particularly a distribution such as Arch whose install procedure is from the command line itself). Thus, while it would be more difficult, a device without video whose bootloader can be edited or replaced would also suffice, so long as an unrestricted network shell is available from the original OS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1747" RevisionGUID="cd45f476-1739-448a-a9ee-ff93bc26c312" CreationDate="2016-01-09T00:39:35.270" UserId="1190" Text="I was hoping for the Oculus Rift to be released for a price of less than 500 € (~550 USD). Since it it now announced for 700 € (~760 USD), I wonder whether there's an alternative announced to be ready this year (in 2016).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps I was too fixated on the Oculus Rift, but I have not listened much to the VR market and competitors of Facebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* max. 500 € price&#xD;&#xA;* released or announced for 2016&#xD;&#xA;* resolution of approx. 1080×1200 per eye, like the Rift&#xD;&#xA;* works on Windows, Linux is not required&#xD;&#xA;* comes with an SDK, games not required" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1747" RevisionGUID="cd45f476-1739-448a-a9ee-ff93bc26c312" CreationDate="2016-01-09T00:39:35.270" UserId="1190" Text="Alternative to Oculus Rift" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1747" RevisionGUID="cd45f476-1739-448a-a9ee-ff93bc26c312" CreationDate="2016-01-09T00:39:35.270" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1743" RevisionGUID="bdccb0f3-632a-487f-a1c9-d9b15afb69a6" CreationDate="2016-01-09T10:22:40.693" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1749" RevisionGUID="99641226-9bc4-404b-8ac7-a661aacc9760" CreationDate="2016-01-09T11:46:46.900" UserId="77" Text="It will not be possible to build a new gaming system for 300 RON.  You will need at least the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 2. RAM 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. SSD 120GB +&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Power supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming you already have a monitor, keyboard and mouse and you will be using a free operating system, e.g. linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest SSD 120GB on dc-shop.ro is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dc-shop.ro/ssd_uri/ssd-silicon-power-s60-120gb-sata3-2.5-inch-l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This costs 199 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no way you can buy the folowing for 101 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This site is great when building rigs : pcpartpicker.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1749" RevisionGUID="d6521617-ba19-40a4-a83d-55484eeb4b1c" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:01:33.890" UserId="77" Comment="added 822 characters in body" Text="It will not be possible to build a new gaming system for 300 RON.  You will need at least the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 2. RAM 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. SSD 120GB +&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Power supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming you already have a monitor, keyboard and mouse and you will be using a free operating system, e.g. linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest SSD 120GB on dc-shop.ro is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dc-shop.ro/ssd_uri/ssd-silicon-power-s60-120gb-sata3-2.5-inch-l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This costs 199 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no way you can buy the folowing for 101 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This site is great when building rigs : pcpartpicker.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been suggested that maybe you are just looking for an SSD drive with a budget of 300 RON.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that is the case then I would recommend spending a bit more and getting a 240GB SSD drive. 353 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dc-shop.ro/ssd_uri/ssd-patriot-blast-series-240gb-sata3-2.5-inch-l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6918/patriot-blaze-240gb-ssd-review/index10.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To me anything less than 200GB in an SSD is a false economoy.  If you absolutely cannot spend more than 300 RON.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dc-shop.ro/ssd_uri/ssd-corsair-force-series-ls-120gb-sata-3-2.5-inch-mlc-l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has the best read/ write speeds. 291 RON&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, when gaming the graphics card will largely determine the frame rate and not the SSD.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jq0BN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1751" RevisionGUID="9125e1b0-5821-4447-b5da-bd258269252e" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:35:43.847" UserId="971" Text="A SSD won't matter really for gaming performance, unless your RAM is becoming a limiting factor, or the game is divided into small sections that load in-game(like in Half-Life 2). Most popular today are the 850 Evo series from Samsung, but it seems they're not available. I'd go with Sean's suggestion, but not going for the cheapest 240GB drive, as it'll compromise on other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an independent recommendation, I'd suggest this Sandisk 120GB one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dc-shop.ro/ssd_uri/ssd-sandisk-pluus-120gb-sata3-2.5inch-l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a mid-end drive, and Sandisk's drives are good. I have been using their Extreme series of flash drives for a while, and I'm not disappointed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1752" RevisionGUID="e11413ee-6e69-4f78-840e-bc4564afd0a6" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:09:34.670" UserId="951" Text="It appears, that Be Quiet 500W Straight Power 10 is a reasonably priced very qiet PSU - it is 10.7 dB loud on 50% load and 15.6 db at 100%, due to enourmous, for PSU standards, 135 mm fan and very low max speed which is 1200 rpm ([reference][1]). It's curently [9 $ above][2] the budget, but it's definitely worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/527&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1754" RevisionGUID="228270b8-5258-4a03-b5cb-be2bba1ed7e7" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:49:36.893" UserId="1457" Text="Many mobile Workstations using i5/i7 CPUs from DELL/HP/THINKPAD or other vendors can meet your requirements. Usually they provide 4 memory slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all the i5/i7 CPU with 4 cores can support 32GB or more memory(like i7-4770hq\i7-2670QM\), some 5/6th generation i5/i7 CPUs with 2 cores also support 32GB memory(like i5-6260U\i7-6500U).&#xD;&#xA;And you can use this site:http://ark.intel.com/#@Processors to check if a CPU can support 32GB memory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some recommended series: DELL precision M4800/4700/4600, THINKPAD w530/540 ,HP ZBOOK14/17/8470P/8570P. You can find some refurnished/second-hand ones(often with 8 memory) on ebay or amazon warehouse , usually it will cost you around 1000 USD/EURO including additional memories.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1754" RevisionGUID="f83a5f86-6e11-4442-8c1a-c640f503360f" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:55:48.973" UserId="1457" Comment="add some details" Text="Many mobile Workstations using i5/i7 CPUs from DELL/HP/THINKPAD or other vendors can meet your requirements. Usually they provide 4 memory slots and of course, they support virtualisation features, but not suitable for server-like heavy computing works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all the i5/i7 CPU with 4 cores can support 32GB or more memory(like the early i7-4770hq\i7-2670QM\), some 5/6th generation i5/i7 CPUs with 2 cores also support 32GB memory(like i5-6260U\i7-6500U).&#xD;&#xA;And you can use this site:http://ark.intel.com/#@Processors to check if a CPU can support 32GB memory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some recommended series: DELL precision M4800/4700/4600, THINKPAD w530/540 ,HP ZBOOK14/17/8470P/8570P. You can find some refurnished/second-hand ones(often with 8 memory) on ebay or amazon warehouse , usually it will cost you around 1000 USD/EURO including additional memories.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1755" RevisionGUID="f5f0b86d-ce9a-4d83-8b1f-e9d490c31f4a" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:42:25.347" UserId="1457" Text="Take a consideration of HP gen8 microserver. It has four 3.5HDD bays,one 2.5 optical bay,and one microsd slot. Cheapest version with intel g1610T cpu,4 GB ecc memory(with out hdd) usually comes with around 220 EURO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a easily used remote control tool called iLO pre-installed on the chip and you can do any configuration via ethernet instead of a display.  You can even install a ESXi on it and run several VMs including windows,linux,macos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some more information: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://forums.freenas.org/index.php?threads/hp-microserver-g8-check-my-build.25825/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://blog.darrenscott.com/2011/10/23/building-a-nas-using-a-hp-microserver-freenas-and-zfs/comment-page-1/ " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="517d2fb1-9dde-4337-83c8-36450fd03f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:52:03.180" UserId="1458" Text="I will understand if this is off-topic, I couldn't really understand the rules, but I saw some similar questions. I'll delete this if you consider it to be off-topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my current PC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asrock 970 Extreme3 R2.0&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD FX 4350 &#xD;&#xA; - Video: AMD R9 270 2GB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: (1x) Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB 1600Mhz DDR3&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Kingston 128GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: WD 500GB 7200RPM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to upgrade my computer so that it allows for further modification but in such a way that I don't get bottlenecks. The GPU is pretty new so I won't be changing it for now. I use my computer mostly for gaming and work (Visual Studio + Hyper-V with a Windows Server 2012 instance), and because of this an upgrade to 16GB RAM is needed (8GB runs short sometimes).  &#xD;&#xA;These are the upgrade paths I've been able to identify which could provide me a nice performance gain for at least some time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade1 (current CPU is given as part of the price)**  &#xD;&#xA;This path has two downsides: RAM keeps being DDR3, so upgrade to DDR4 will be required in some time; and the FX8350 is basically the top of what AM3+ will get. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - New CPU: FX8350 = USD270 &#xD;&#xA; - New RAM DDR3 8GB stick = USD110 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD380&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade2 (current CPU and motherboard are given as part of the price)**  &#xD;&#xA;This path has the same RAM downside as Upgrade1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - New Motherboard: Asus Z97-C = USD200&#xD;&#xA; - New CPU: i5 4590 = USD300&#xD;&#xA; - New RAM DDR3 8GB stick = USD110 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD610&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade3 (current CPU, RAM and motherboard are given as part of the price)**   &#xD;&#xA;This path allows for DDR4 RAM, many CPU upgrades if/when required and the motherboard has 2 PCI-E 3.0 slots for many different GPU setups, when an upgrade is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI Z170a = USD220 &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 16GB = USD200 &#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5 6400 = USD280 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm wondering is if the Upgrade3 path is really worth the USD700 (without taking into account that the final price will be around USD450 upon giving my components). Also, I'm not from the USA, that's why prices will probably seem much higher than they should be (and importing is not an option)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="517d2fb1-9dde-4337-83c8-36450fd03f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:52:03.180" UserId="1458" Text="Deciding on pc upgrade path" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="517d2fb1-9dde-4337-83c8-36450fd03f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:52:03.180" UserId="1458" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1757" RevisionGUID="15cde4d9-ec4b-4cf2-9211-17542c9a775f" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:57:46.450" UserId="1428" Text="I recently bought a HP storage works x1400 from eBay for $50 including shipping &#xA;&#xA;Specs&#xA; 1. 1 quad core cpu&#xA; 2. Takes 4 3.5 drives it came with 4 500gb disks&#xA;&#xA;You can replace these with your own high capacity drives I think 2tb might be upper limit not sure if there is a way to override this I personally haven't tested whether this limit actually exist but have plans on verifying myself &#xA;&#xA;It runs quiet compared to other racks and is also thin and light weight &#xA;&#xA;I have installed server 2012 r2 but you can even install openfiler or Freenas&#xA;&#xA;It has a sas port so you can join other similar hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1758" RevisionGUID="75957e95-7ced-4a30-86b2-0b815f074b96" CreationDate="2016-01-10T11:49:09.277" UserId="531" Text="Depends on your working/gaming style I suppose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe its cause I'm older but I tend to treasure *vertical* space over horizontal space, so ultrawide displays have never appealed to me. As a replacement for *two* monitors, or as part of a *expansive* stretched workspace 21:9 might work awesome. You can dock 2-4 windows and have plenty of space without the annoying bezel. Its a bit of a niche product and prices are adjusted upwards accordingly. That said, I'm not a fan of wide screens and this is a bit of a biased opinion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand 1440p is pretty well regarded - Until recently Jeff Atwood swore by [1440p/27 inch displays that were pretty reasonably priced][1], and your dell is smaller - which means better pixel pitch. Text is likely going to be sharper, backlight bleed is not that bad on quality displays (and seems to be more of a thing on IPS displays, and for gaming, its a more common aspect ratio. I've driven games at 1440p- with a gforce 660, so it would also be easy to run for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pixel pitch is a big deal. Basically the more pixels per square inch you have, the sharper a monitor is, and the easier it is to read text. I'm not *too* sure how much of an improvement it is between 1080p and 1440p, since I jumped straight to 2160p but it would likely be better to have higher resolutions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for aspect ratio 16:9 is the standard for TVs. Its standard for most games, and [PC gamer seems to think you need additional software][2] to get things running. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, between them? The Dell makes more sense. I'd probably also consider a few less traditional options before making my choice tho &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://blog.codinghorror.com/the-ips-lcd-revolution/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.pcgamer.com/219-gaming-guide-shooting-in-cinemascope/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1759" RevisionGUID="96a66cc6-5375-4d9a-a71c-ea00d570a13f" CreationDate="2016-01-10T11:55:47.040" UserId="531" Text="OSVR's currently in the development kit stage. Its designed to be a low cost, easy to customize alternative &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ~300USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen: The devkit uses a 1920x1080 single full HD screen - this might be upgradable in future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems to be available now. Has an SDK, works on windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its also open source hardware and software so you could customise it as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Says in facebook that [they ship to europe][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.facebook.com/OpenSourceVR/posts/1766283393600174?comment_id=1766503816911465&amp;reply_comment_id=1766551573573356&amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R9%22%7D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1759" RevisionGUID="ccfd935e-e740-4ffb-9d2e-5323e8171f15" CreationDate="2016-01-10T12:30:42.300" UserId="1190" Comment="Add some more links for details, add price for Germany" Text="[OSVR](http://www.osvr.org/) is currently in the development kit stage. It's designed to be a low cost, easy to customize alternative &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ~300USD (350 € for Germany)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen: The devkit uses a 1920x1080 single full HD screen - this might be upgradable in future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems to be available now. Has an [SDK](http://osvr.github.io/build-with/), works on Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its also open source hardware and software so you could customise it as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Says in facebook that [they ship to europe][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.facebook.com/OpenSourceVR/posts/1766283393600174?comment_id=1766503816911465&amp;reply_comment_id=1766551573573356&amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R9%22%7D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1759" RevisionGUID="ccfd935e-e740-4ffb-9d2e-5323e8171f15" CreationDate="2016-01-10T12:30:42.300" Comment="Proposed by 1190 approved by 531 edit id of 361" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1760" RevisionGUID="7fa55d90-82a7-4297-8232-f3d08754da51" CreationDate="2016-01-10T13:20:54.677" UserId="531" Text="There's quite a few similar ones but I used [this][1] as a secondary screen for a few years. It got somewhat roughly handled, but if you plan ahead and mount it correctly (and not try to work on it while its plugged in as I did) its a good monitor, which is remarkably good looking. No audio as far as I can tell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DX tends to ship anywhere and shipping's part of the list price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI Port? Check. Also has composite or VGA if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Low price? Somewhere around 60 euros &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Works with a RPI? Sure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No built in audio though, and its JUST over 10 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a lower resolution 7 inch option as well I believe, which would be cheaper, but its something janky like 640x480.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dx.com/p/10-1-digital-ips-screen-1280-x-800-drive-board-for-raspberry-pcduino-cubieboard-black-275804" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1757" RevisionGUID="1f8b97c1-bab7-443c-908b-8476c7930acb" CreationDate="2016-01-10T14:31:17.673" UserId="1428" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="I recently bought a HP storage works x1400 from eBay for $50 including shipping. HP storage works x1400 is based on HP DL320 so if you search ebay you can look for DL320 G6 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - quad core cpu&#xD;&#xA; - Takes 4 3.5 drives it came with 4 500gb disks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can replace these with your own high capacity drives I think 2TB might be upper limit not sure if there is a way to override this I personally haven't tested whether this limit actually exist but have plans on verifying myself &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It runs quiet compared to other racks and is also thin and light weight &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have installed server 2012 r2 but you can even install openfiler or Freenas&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a sas port so you can join other similar hardware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1369" RevisionGUID="a07c66fb-cb47-41ed-9e20-f8093b1a11fc" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:49:16.170" UserId="476" Comment="If its crossed out - we don't need it. Don't make your post unreadable by adding useless information with strikethroughs." Text="There are a couple Cooler Master, Corsair (AX and RM) and EVGA series power supplies that disable their fan under low load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation: [EVGA SuperNova 550 G2][1] (220-G2-0550-Y1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Within budget ($80 at [newegg][2])&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA Eco Mode: Fan does not switch on until PSU load is above 25%&#xD;&#xA; - 550 Watts, which is just above your calculated optimal.&#xD;&#xA; - 80 plus Gold for efficiency.&#xD;&#xA; - Made by Super Flower, which almost always guarentees a high quality PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0550-Y1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1752" RevisionGUID="c871aac3-8a2f-4ab8-91e5-c9e3087b6c96" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:51:27.543" UserId="476" Comment="Grammar corrections" Text="It appears that the Be Quiet 500W Straight Power 10 is a reasonably priced very quiet PSU - it is 10.7 dB loud on 50% load and 15.6 db at 100%, due to enormous, for PSU standards, 135 mm fan and very low max speed which is 1200 rpm&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. It's currently [$9 above][2] your budget, but I think it's definitely worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/527&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="90692b31-d940-407f-9123-0f2bb03a1ac6" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:52:57.063" UserId="476" Comment="Grammar grammar grammar!!!!" Text="Currently I plan buying the components below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (Z170 3xPCI-E DDR4)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5-6500 3.20GHz 6MB with 212 EVO&#xD;&#xA; - A-DATA 240GB 2,5'' SATA SSD Premier SP550&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX960 4096MB 128bit OC (Armor 2X)&#xD;&#xA; - Fractal Design Define S case&#xD;&#xA; - 4 SHIRU 140mm (8.9 db) fans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I [calculated][1] that a 430W - 500W PSU is optimal.&#xD;&#xA;What PSU would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;I'm specifically interested in low noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="553a9860-4960-4291-a0f1-df37408e71a5" CreationDate="2016-01-11T06:24:52.157" UserId="40" Comment="precise currency" Text="The quietest PSU under 100 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1368" RevisionGUID="553a9860-4960-4291-a0f1-df37408e71a5" CreationDate="2016-01-11T06:24:52.157" Comment="Proposed by 40 approved by 912, 57 edit id of 362" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1765" RevisionGUID="7c9b47dd-994c-4b2e-aa71-0dee54ff3c86" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:02:25.417" UserId="97" Text="I have some embedded systems with RS-232 interfaces. But these days new computers with RS-232 interface seems quite rare, so I am wondering what alternatives might exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there are RS-232 to USB adapters, but I am wondering if there might exist a device that could be used without even needing a computer to plug it into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device to which I can just hook up one USB keyboard and one monitor (through HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort) and have it perform the function of a VT100 or similar?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1765" RevisionGUID="7c9b47dd-994c-4b2e-aa71-0dee54ff3c86" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:02:25.417" UserId="97" Text="Minimal serial console" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1765" RevisionGUID="7c9b47dd-994c-4b2e-aa71-0dee54ff3c86" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:02:25.417" UserId="97" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;rs232&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1765" RevisionGUID="6f43bf0e-1c65-4477-ad93-25cb1c2d7117" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:18:50.380" UserId="97" Comment="added 244 characters in body" Text="I have some embedded systems with RS-232 interfaces. But these days new computers with RS-232 interface seems quite rare, so I am wondering what alternatives might exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there are RS-232 to USB adapters, but I am wondering if there might exist a device that could be used without even needing a computer to plug it into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device to which I can just hook up one USB keyboard and one monitor (through HDMI, DVI, or DisplayPort) and have it perform the function of a VT100 or similar?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [a single chip device](http://geoffg.net/terminal.html) similar to what I am looking for. That device has PS/2 keyboard interface and analog video output. What I am looking for is however USB keyboard input and digital video output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="cdeed158-330c-477d-b91f-b669c18e50c7" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:05:40.520" UserId="1474" Text="I would like to use my laptop as a wifi hotspot, but the wifi hardware does not support AP mode, which I understand is required, as mentioned [here][1] and other similar pages providing instructions for how to set it up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a google search I did find [this][2] page, but there is just a '?' in the column for whether the dongle supports AP mode or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have a wifi dongle that supports AP mode? If so, what is it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it matters, I am running ubuntu 14.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ubuntuhandbook.org/index.php/2014/09/3-ways-create-wifi-hotspot-ubuntu/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://elinux.org/RPi_USB_Wi-Fi_Adapters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="cdeed158-330c-477d-b91f-b669c18e50c7" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:05:40.520" UserId="1474" Text="What available wifi dongles support ap mode?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="cdeed158-330c-477d-b91f-b669c18e50c7" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:05:40.520" UserId="1474" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="865fb19e-32b3-4f5b-b74f-138eda81ac3b" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:27:29.537" UserId="1452" Text="I am looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium settings, is modular enough to be upgraded in the long haul and costs about 600$. Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. Any ideas/pcpartpicker builds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="865fb19e-32b3-4f5b-b74f-138eda81ac3b" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:27:29.537" UserId="1452" Text="Efficient (&lt;250W) capable gaming laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="865fb19e-32b3-4f5b-b74f-138eda81ac3b" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:27:29.537" UserId="1452" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="b0080a72-3835-490a-b6fe-9f274237fe9d" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:34:49.677" UserId="1452" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium settings, is modular enough to be upgraded in the long haul and costs about 600$. Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. Any ideas/pcpartpicker builds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="a3c37fc3-6dec-4c79-a1a4-920a507b7ea6" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:43:17.500" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="5b85cdca-a26d-4745-a795-7d77dc9cbf48" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:36:55.160" UserId="1452" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium settings and costs about 600$. Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. I found this excellent 600$ build online but the wattage was far too high (400W-ish). Could anyone suggest a more economic build like this one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1765" RevisionGUID="23a8415e-300a-468e-b806-2a8d17d22df4" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:47:52.897" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;rs-232&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1642" RevisionGUID="940b64ed-6a8f-4e4b-886b-d45777d687d5" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:55:46.800" UserId="155" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="For questions about Steinberg's low-latency, direct-to-peripheral digital audio driver protocol." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6423" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="44668b18-c419-4b56-bfc6-01cc91c246da" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:21:51.207" UserId="1452" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium settings (fully D3D11 compatible unlike my current machine), and costs about 600$. The specs should like something along the lines of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 3GHz Quad Core           &#xD;&#xA;GPU: 1GHz     &#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 2GB         &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB           &#xD;&#xA;DISK: 500GB+              &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. I found this excellent 600$ build online but the wattage was far too high (400W-ish). Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1768" RevisionGUID="f50d3169-c855-4428-bfaa-dc4c2989869b" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:35:15.160" UserId="1190" Text="The [Fujitsu P Line P27T-7 UHD](http://sp.ts.fujitsu.com/dmsp/Publications/public/ds-display-p27t-7-uhd.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 3840x2160 (27&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;- Inputs: 1x HDMI 2.0, 2x HDMI 1.4 (MHL), 1x DisplayPort 1.2&#xD;&#xA;- Input selection: input button at the front&#xD;&#xA;- HDCP support according to a [idealo.de review](http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/3785017_-p27t-7-fujitsu.html) (version not known)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Input selection][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Warning: Some older versions with the same number seem to have different inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0bK02.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1769" RevisionGUID="8db19f38-9faa-48f5-822a-687ba212c9dd" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:52:41.460" UserId="1477" Text="inside our house i only usually get an H or H+ signal, or sometimes 3G but when i go outside, i get a fast 4G signal. i plan to buy a repeater so that i will get the same 4G signal inside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i already have seen a repeater in an online shop and it's quite affordable at $50. however it says it is a GSM900MHz repeater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question is: can it detect the 4G signal outside and repeat the 4G inside our house?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1769" RevisionGUID="8db19f38-9faa-48f5-822a-687ba212c9dd" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:52:41.460" UserId="1477" Text="what is an appropriate 4G/LTE repeater for home use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1769" RevisionGUID="8db19f38-9faa-48f5-822a-687ba212c9dd" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:52:41.460" UserId="1477" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1769" RevisionGUID="c4ab062b-ab02-4181-8923-63c67f660f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-12T05:12:15.357" UserId="57" Comment="Grammar" Text="Inside our house I only usually get an H or H+ signal, or sometimes 3G but when I go outside, I get a fast 4G signal. I plan to buy a repeater so that I will get the same 4G signal inside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have seen a repeater in an online shop and it's quite affordable at $50. However it says it is a GSM900MHz repeater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: can it detect the 4G signal outside and repeat the 4G inside our house?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1769" RevisionGUID="c4ab062b-ab02-4181-8923-63c67f660f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-12T05:12:15.357" UserId="57" Comment="Grammar" Text="What is an appropriate 4G/LTE repeater for home use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="c9306066-16e8-49d4-b2d2-5ce127415e0f" CreationDate="2016-01-12T15:37:59.317" UserId="1452" Comment="edited title" Text="Efficient (&lt;250W) capable gaming desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="c51f0ff4-958b-4d41-a37b-77bc1d66ef33" CreationDate="2016-01-12T16:38:45.847" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="a29f3d7e-f2e3-45a6-be41-1e76feb023c1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:26:49.863" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a keyboard with the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no forced incline&#xD;&#xA;- not compact&#xD;&#xA;- flat keys&#xD;&#xA;- Apple QWERTY layout (i.e., standard layout of official Apple keyboards sold in the United States), or something close to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - below 100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - available in the United States&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear on the terms:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with forced incline: [MB110LL/B](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DPF08E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with flat key: [MYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY9F8HW/ref=twister_B019DHSBPQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of compact keyboard:  [GMYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/GMYLE%C2%AE-Ultra-Thin-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B003PHJJV6/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/l9een.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wlEoS.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dFnUl.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="a29f3d7e-f2e3-45a6-be41-1e76feb023c1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:26:49.863" UserId="40" Text="Apple keyboard without forced incline, not compact, and with flat keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="a29f3d7e-f2e3-45a6-be41-1e76feb023c1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:26:49.863" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="4c91b70e-cdcd-41cb-8eda-524e02557306" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:46:57.373" UserId="40" Comment="improved terms" Text="I am looking for a keyboard with the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no forced incline&#xD;&#xA;- full-size layout (i.e. not compact layout)&#xD;&#xA;- flat keys&#xD;&#xA;- Apple QWERTY layout (i.e., standard layout of official Apple keyboards sold in the United States), or something close to it.&#xD;&#xA;- thin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - below 100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - available in the United States&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear on the terms:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with forced incline: [MB110LL/B](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DPF08E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with flat key: [MYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY9F8HW/ref=twister_B019DHSBPQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with compact layout:  [GMYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/GMYLE%C2%AE-Ultra-Thin-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B003PHJJV6/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of thin keyboard: [Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-920-000914-Illuminated-Keyboard-K740/dp/B001F51G16):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More generally, a keyboard similar to the Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740 but with Apple layout would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/l9een.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wlEoS.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dFnUl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxq7K.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="4c91b70e-cdcd-41cb-8eda-524e02557306" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:46:57.373" UserId="40" Comment="improved terms" Text="Apple keyboard without forced incline, full-size layout, with flat keys, and thin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1771" RevisionGUID="1504a8cb-adc1-4a0d-bdf5-5443a53e4e66" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:40:25.603" UserId="203" Text="For your computer, besides the extra RAM you need, I recommend an upgrade to your CPU cooler (something like the [CoolerMaster V6][1] would be very nice) so you can overclock your current CPU. While the FX 4350 is only a two module CPU, it should handle most tasks well, and applications requiring more than 4 threads are rare. Only when you feel that your CPU is performing inadequately even with an overclock should you upgrade. If more cores will help, a [AMD FX 8320][2] will perform just as well as an 8350 when lightly overclocked. If you need single threaded performance, you will need to go with Intel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For Intel, since you can't find a K series CPU, there isn't much point getting a Z series chipset. A H97 or B85 would do just as well. Skylake doesn't really offer much in terms of increased performance. Unless you need the features of the newer platform, my advice would be to stick with Haswell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcstore.com.uy/cooler-master-v6.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.pcstore.com.uy/catalog/product/view/id/514/s/amd-fx-8320-3-5ghz-socket-am3-125w-eight-core-desktop-processor/category/10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="a0416883-3ff1-4f2d-92f2-03081a3b8095" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:44:23.587" UserId="1492" Text="I want to build a small network and security appliance (server) based on a fast Intel Atom CPU. What I need is a Atom CPU (or similar), minimal RAM (1GB is more than enough), a USB drive or SATA Disk On Module (for a small system image), and Gigabit Ethernet. The dimensions of the board aren't important. ARM CPUs are too slow. Most importantly I don't want lots of multimedia and other interfaces which I feel uncomfortable with for robustness and security reasons. What I'm looking for is something specialized like the [Parallela board][1] but for Atom. Any recommendation would be very much welcome.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.parallella.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="a0416883-3ff1-4f2d-92f2-03081a3b8095" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:44:23.587" UserId="1492" Text="Minimal Atom board as a dedicated server, without multimedia interfaces" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="a0416883-3ff1-4f2d-92f2-03081a3b8095" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:44:23.587" UserId="1492" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1773" RevisionGUID="5c962921-4cab-4f14-a495-0d4a73dd0f36" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:10:57.340" UserId="1496" Text="I own this laptop: [HP Envy 15-108el][1]&#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1TB Hard disk and the following mSata drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    smartctl 6.4 2014-10-07 r4002 [x86_64-linux-4.2.0-23-generic] (local build)&#xD;&#xA;    Copyright (C) 2002-14, Bruce Allen, Christian Franke, www.smartmontools.org&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    === START OF INFORMATION SECTION ===&#xD;&#xA;    Device Model:     ADATA AXM21S3-24GM-B&#xD;&#xA;    Serial Number:    2E1220002978&#xD;&#xA;    LU WWN Device Id: 5 000000 000000000&#xD;&#xA;    Firmware Version: 168b-HP&#xD;&#xA;    User Capacity:    24.015.495.168 bytes [24,0 GB]&#xD;&#xA;    Sector Size:      512 bytes logical/physical&#xD;&#xA;    Rotation Rate:    Solid State Device&#xD;&#xA;    Form Factor:      &lt; 1.8 inches&#xD;&#xA;    Device is:        Not in smartctl database [for details use: -P showall]&#xD;&#xA;    ATA Version is:   ACS-2 (minor revision not indicated)&#xD;&#xA;    SATA Version is:  SATA 3.1, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 6.0 Gb/s)&#xD;&#xA;    Local Time is:    Wed Jan 13 13:37:58 2016 CET&#xD;&#xA;    SMART support is: Available - device has SMART capability.&#xD;&#xA;    SMART support is: Enabled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would upgrade the mSata drive replacing it with a [Crucial MX200][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Will it fit inside the laptop? &#xD;&#xA;- Can i use it to boot windows? is there any way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not scared of &quot;strange&quot; ways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://support.hp.com/it-it/product/HP-ENVY-15-Notebook-PC-series/5401187/model/7039012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct250mx200ssd3#productDetails" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1773" RevisionGUID="5c962921-4cab-4f14-a495-0d4a73dd0f36" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:10:57.340" UserId="1496" Text="mSata upgrade to install system Envy 15-j108el" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1773" RevisionGUID="5c962921-4cab-4f14-a495-0d4a73dd0f36" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:10:57.340" UserId="1496" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="56565ff0-2eef-48d8-bd3d-6a4f269ed52d" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:02:52.773" UserId="54" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a keyboard with the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no forced incline&#xD;&#xA;- full-size layout (i.e. not compact layout)&#xD;&#xA;- flat keys&#xD;&#xA;- Apple QWERTY layout (i.e., standard layout of official Apple keyboards sold in the United States), or something close to it.&#xD;&#xA;- thin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - below 100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - available in the United States&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear on the terms:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with forced incline: [MB110LL/B](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DPF08E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with flat key: [MYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY9F8HW/ref=twister_B019DHSBPQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with compact layout:  [GMYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/GMYLE%C2%AE-Ultra-Thin-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B003PHJJV6/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of thin keyboard: [Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-920-000914-Illuminated-Keyboard-K740/dp/B001F51G16):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More generally, a keyboard similar to the Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740 but with Apple layout would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/l9eenm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wlEoSm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dFnUlm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxq7Km.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1774" RevisionGUID="636995f6-08de-4bd0-a63f-8c8b9a34ce5a" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:07:00.000" UserId="57" Text="Yes, the new drive can replace the existing drive. There are a couple things to note though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The Crucial drive is SATA 3. [Newegg][1] says that the drive you have is SATA 2. If you assume that the controller can only support SATA 2, you won't get the full transfer speed the Crucial drive is capable of, *but* SATA is backward compatible and will work.&#xD;&#xA; - It will fit. Both drives are the same standard physical size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can boot to Windows using this drive. Assuming that Windows is currently installed on the drive you are replacing, you'll need to either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Completely reinstall the operating system once the new drive is installed. You'll want to ensure you are installing it on the new drive and not on the 1TB drive.&#xD;&#xA; - Utilize HP's recovery options once the new drive is installed. Doing this may require that you create the recovery disks prior to removing the old drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211966&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-Hard%20Drives-_-20211966&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10440897&amp;PID=5841901&amp;SID=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1773" RevisionGUID="24cff601-631d-46f3-a8cf-bdf6d32ff2d0" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:52:11.593" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar." Text="I own this laptop: [HP Envy 15-108el][1]  &#xD;&#xA;It comes with 1TB Hard disk and the following mSata drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    smartctl 6.4 2014-10-07 r4002 [x86_64-linux-4.2.0-23-generic] (local build)&#xD;&#xA;    Copyright (C) 2002-14, Bruce Allen, Christian Franke, www.smartmontools.org&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    === START OF INFORMATION SECTION ===&#xD;&#xA;    Device Model:     ADATA AXM21S3-24GM-B&#xD;&#xA;    Serial Number:    2E1220002978&#xD;&#xA;    LU WWN Device Id: 5 000000 000000000&#xD;&#xA;    Firmware Version: 168b-HP&#xD;&#xA;    User Capacity:    24.015.495.168 bytes [24,0 GB]&#xD;&#xA;    Sector Size:      512 bytes logical/physical&#xD;&#xA;    Rotation Rate:    Solid State Device&#xD;&#xA;    Form Factor:      &lt; 1.8 inches&#xD;&#xA;    Device is:        Not in smartctl database [for details use: -P showall]&#xD;&#xA;    ATA Version is:   ACS-2 (minor revision not indicated)&#xD;&#xA;    SATA Version is:  SATA 3.1, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 6.0 Gb/s)&#xD;&#xA;    Local Time is:    Wed Jan 13 13:37:58 2016 CET&#xD;&#xA;    SMART support is: Available - device has SMART capability.&#xD;&#xA;    SMART support is: Enabled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to upgrade the mSata drive, replacing it with a [Crucial MX200][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Will it fit inside the laptop? &#xD;&#xA;- Can I use it to boot windows? Is there any way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not scared of &quot;strange&quot; ways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://support.hp.com/it-it/product/HP-ENVY-15-Notebook-PC-series/5401187/model/7039012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct250mx200ssd3#productDetails" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1773" RevisionGUID="24cff601-631d-46f3-a8cf-bdf6d32ff2d0" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:52:11.593" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 214 edit id of 363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="a3666505-34a3-4d71-99d2-c6ca25b40027" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:47:45.313" UserId="219" Text="What companies should I look to for purchasing a top end non-smart TV?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the entirely plausible set of scenarios where [Smart TV's are susceptible to malware][1] &amp; the [added cost of the &quot;smartness&quot; is usually not necessary][2], I won't be looking to get a Smart TV anytime soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it seems almost every manufacturer has jumped on this bangwagon full steam ahead. Who hasn't? Anyone still focusing on just the display part? Some examples?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20160108/07020333277/tvs-now-smart-enough-to-get-hijacked-pick-up-malware.shtml&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techdirt.com/blog/innovation/articles/20120221/03352017827/smart-tvs-not-such-smart-idea.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="a3666505-34a3-4d71-99d2-c6ca25b40027" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:47:45.313" UserId="219" Text="Who's still making top end non-smart TV's?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="a3666505-34a3-4d71-99d2-c6ca25b40027" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:47:45.313" UserId="219" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="18a70416-af27-4a78-a0ce-4fdb333c68c7" CreationDate="2016-01-14T03:46:41.637" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="992" RevisionGUID="0577fa80-426c-45cf-91cf-3ec26a17cfd9" CreationDate="2016-01-14T03:50:08.180" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="For questions about screens that display programs broadcast over radio transmission." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1779" RevisionGUID="79a94f5e-9620-4ee5-b406-76e2498cf546" CreationDate="2016-01-14T04:23:32.373" UserId="1503" Text="I've never had a smartphone before, but since I started Android development I thought it would be beneficial to have a physical device -- the emulator has some limitations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do plan to make this phone my daily driver, but I am not really a heavy phone user.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is developer friendly&#xD;&#xA; 2. A nice camera&#xD;&#xA; 3. A mid-sized display - I don't want anything so big that it's tough to carry&#xD;&#xA; 4. Front-facing stereo speakers would be nice but it's not a requirement - I know many HTC phones have these but I have heard that the more recent models tend to get hot&#xD;&#xA; 5. Screen does not get very hot - a phone that runs warm bothers me&#xD;&#xA; 6. Relatively low SAR rating - It can't hurt to have a lower rating phone&#xD;&#xA; 7. Can easily turn off the data plan and use wifi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a ton of knowledge about phone models and I would really appreciate some recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1779" RevisionGUID="79a94f5e-9620-4ee5-b406-76e2498cf546" CreationDate="2016-01-14T04:23:32.373" UserId="1503" Text="First time smartphone buyer: Looking for a good phone for occasional use and testing Android Apps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1779" RevisionGUID="79a94f5e-9620-4ee5-b406-76e2498cf546" CreationDate="2016-01-14T04:23:32.373" UserId="1503" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="ee5705ba-2b2b-4996-b1db-164facf2d0ca" CreationDate="2016-01-14T05:05:41.327" UserId="219" Comment="added 189 characters in body; edited tags" Text="What companies should I look to for purchasing a top end non-smart TV?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the entirely plausible set of scenarios where [Smart TV's are susceptible to malware][1] &amp; the [added cost of the &quot;smartness&quot; is usually not necessary][2], I won't be looking to get a Smart TV anytime soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it seems almost every manufacturer has jumped on this bangwagon full steam ahead. Who hasn't? Anyone still focusing on just the display part? Some examples?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a certain point the TV hardware starts to resemble Monitors in terms of performance/size. Maybe it would just be better to look towards monitor manufacturers that make large screens?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20160108/07020333277/tvs-now-smart-enough-to-get-hijacked-pick-up-malware.shtml&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techdirt.com/blog/innovation/articles/20120221/03352017827/smart-tvs-not-such-smart-idea.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="ee5705ba-2b2b-4996-b1db-164facf2d0ca" CreationDate="2016-01-14T05:05:41.327" UserId="219" Comment="added 189 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="ee5705ba-2b2b-4996-b1db-164facf2d0ca" CreationDate="2016-01-14T05:05:41.327" UserId="219" Comment="added 189 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Who's still developing non-smart TV's?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="9dd5b769-019d-41bf-bb6f-0503e11b2781" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:17:43.670" UserId="1366" Comment="added 268 characters in body" Text="I ordered new case to my ITX build it's&#xD;&#xA;[Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white)][1].&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to light it with cold white light but I have to choose source of light. I have two favourites (both powered by PSU):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cold Cathode (Revoltec) - one 300 mm at top and and one at bottom of case (if they will fit) or two 100 mm at top and two at bottom (if 300 mm won't fit). &#xD;&#xA; - LED Strip (5050, 12V, Color: Cold White) - around whole case or only at the top and bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Which configuration will consume less power (Watts) ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. Which configuration provides more light ? &#xD;&#xA; 3. Any pros/cons for this configurations ?&#xD;&#xA; 4. Any other possible solutions ?&#xD;&#xA; 5. Which will look better (I know it is subjective opinion, but what do you think)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After using &quot;Peter Zhu&quot; answer i lighted it with LED stripes (3528, 12V, Color: Cold White) and below you can find photo of it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white) with cold white LED stripes][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/IaaxB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1781" RevisionGUID="871d0b37-00b6-435a-8fc4-e225e0d9cc41" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:21:22.077" UserId="531" Text="I've heard many good things about bias lighting, and am looking at options for it. I'm handy with a soldering iron so some assembly required is cool but I suspect other people may prefer something with minimal assembly requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria? &#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;Well, its bias lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features?&#xD;&#xA;---------------------&#xD;&#xA;Turns on and off when my PC does or has a switch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ability to vary overall brightness, though it dosen't have to be dimmable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I require *reasonably* even backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be super cool if it worked well with larger monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Removable options would be shiny.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I work with dual monitors, options that scale to that would be super cool. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1781" RevisionGUID="871d0b37-00b6-435a-8fc4-e225e0d9cc41" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:21:22.077" UserId="531" Text="What are my options for bias lighting on a PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1781" RevisionGUID="871d0b37-00b6-435a-8fc4-e225e0d9cc41" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:21:22.077" UserId="531" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1782" RevisionGUID="95ed9d7a-a313-4701-9311-22bea4e97b09" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:30:11.950" UserId="531" Text="After experimenting with a few experimental options - using a ledburg and a desklamp, I ended up building my own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my experiments, direct mounting would have been bad on my dell since the stand would have obscured the 'sweet spot' of lighting if I'd stuck it directly to the screen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a DIY build so it may vary but I ended up getting a strip of 6500K white LEDs from my favourite chinese crapgadget vendor, chopping it up into ~27 LED strips, building a small wooden stand per monitor, and wireing it up to my power supply through a molex/floppy adapter. It turns on and off when my PC does (since it taps power from the PSU), is and is independent of the monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're ludiciously bright (which I love) though you could probably just use less LEDs. Since they're a strip, the backlight is fairly even outside the edges. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tMU1r.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1783" RevisionGUID="1f835e33-d100-49d1-b48f-3f8f89e19326" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:34:07.603" UserId="531" Text="One of my earlier experiments used a set of [LEDBURG][1] lights from ikea. Its somewhat easier to mount, since it comes in rigid, interconnectable strips, but I didn't like the warm white for this application. It was instrumental in setting up what I use now though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192073/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oABqw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PaUqB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1782" RevisionGUID="fe721998-dd00-4bef-8e36-a82783115aec" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:42:16.600" UserId="531" Comment="added 409 characters in body" Text="After experimenting with a few experimental options - using a ledburg and a desklamp, I ended up building my own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my experiments, direct mounting would have been bad on my dell since the stand would have obscured the 'sweet spot' of lighting if I'd stuck it directly to the screen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a DIY build so it may vary but I ended up getting a strip of 6500K white LEDs from my favourite chinese crapgadget vendor, chopping it up into ~27 LED strips, building a small wooden stand per monitor, and wireing it up to my power supply through a molex/floppy adapter. It turns on and off when my PC does (since it taps power from the PSU), is and is independent of the monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're ludiciously bright (which I love) though you could probably just use less LEDs. Since they're a strip, the backlight is fairly even outside the edges. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mounting was an exercise in experimental interpretative carpentry, in my case. You could stick them directly, but I wanted the freedom to replace it in future if the cheap LEDs went bad, or I wanted to compare it side by side with a new option. This also ensures its roughly at the center of the back of each screen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tMU1r.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UdA0B.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1781" RevisionGUID="39d7d58d-8ee4-4f2a-8b0d-645227283090" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:44:27.287" UserId="531" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="I've heard many good things about bias lighting, and am looking at options for it. I'm handy with a soldering iron so some assembly required is cool but I suspect other people may prefer something with minimal assembly requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria? &#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;Well, its bias lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features?&#xD;&#xA;---------------------&#xD;&#xA;Turns on and off when my PC does or has a switch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ability to vary overall brightness, though it dosen't have to be dimmable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I require *reasonably* even backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be super cool if it worked well with larger monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Removable options would be shiny - I may regret what I chose, or need to dial in its position. Not essential though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I work with dual monitors, options that scale to that would be super cool. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1705" RevisionGUID="e73ea9ca-6084-4ed6-90f8-810ecc3e4121" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:52:50.327" UserId="1366" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1784" RevisionGUID="1af62d5e-89e0-4f3e-9326-15615c6b681c" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:04:33.493" UserId="1511" Text="I'm trying to assemble my private home server. I'm searching about a new motherboard and CPU, but I'm stucked cause I don't know what specify check, which are important. For motherboard, I know I have to check about correct socket. For CPU, it's important to check about cores and frequenzy, but also size of first and second level cache storage. I know also it's wrong to do an aritmetic sum of cores and freq, because it is not the real value, as usually users do. Can someone explain me please the most important feature of motherboard and CPU?&#xA;I prefer a better motherboard without graphic included, which is always expensive.&#xA;&#xA;Thank to everyone and hope this question will help anyone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1784" RevisionGUID="1af62d5e-89e0-4f3e-9326-15615c6b681c" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:04:33.493" UserId="1511" Text="Motherboard and CPU: what and how to choose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1784" RevisionGUID="1af62d5e-89e0-4f3e-9326-15615c6b681c" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:04:33.493" UserId="1511" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1785" RevisionGUID="4cc1f57d-a884-4f37-a947-ad2749e6aa05" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:12:50.833" UserId="1457" Text="I recommend a HP micro server. You can see a similar question [here][^1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a micro server, it supports 24/7 work though it consumes more power than those NASs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just need some private online storage, router with a high speed usb port + usb HDD/Flashdisk can meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One recommended router is ASUS [AC56U][^2],adding a usb HDD, it can be easily used as a private online storage.&#xD;&#xA;[^1]:http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1745/low-cost-nas-with-easy-os-installation/1755#1755&#xD;&#xA;[^2]:https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC56U/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1781" RevisionGUID="9b8a7363-6390-4880-b363-6a2438ecc957" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:15:34.657" UserId="531" Comment="edited title" Text="What are my options for bias lighting for a PC monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1786" RevisionGUID="3063a8cf-ac56-4c88-9d7b-cd8d4dfb0fb7" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:21:49.670" UserId="214" Text="&gt; Who's still developing non-smart TV's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all of them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe your basic assumption is flawed. I'm assuming you're defining a &quot;smart TV&quot; as one that has installable/hackable software or at least some type of Internet connection. A quick search shows that there are still many, many TVs being developed and produced that have none of this; just a nice display and a tuner or video connection. They're relatively easy to spot because they tend to have a lower price point, or you can search for them directly:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Search: LCD TV -smart**](https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#tbm=shop&amp;q=lcd+tv+-smart)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see *non*-smart TVs by Samsung, Sharp, Panasonic, Sanyo, Westinghouse, Philips&amp;hellip; HDTV 720p-4K, HDMI inputs, sizes from 17 inches through 70+ inches. You can search for CRTs, LCDs, LEDs, plasma, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's still quite a selection. &quot;Non-smart&quot; TVs are readily available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1784" RevisionGUID="d351676e-2c42-4f45-8e17-c59fc2f3c2f4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:49:53.277" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 70 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to assemble my private home server. I'm searching about a new motherboard and CPU, but I'm stuck because I don't know what, specifically, to check and which components are important. For motherboard, I know I have to check socket type. For CPU, it's important to check about cores and frequency, but also size of first and second level cache storage. I know also it's wrong to do an arithmetic sum of cores and freq, because it is not the real value. Can someone explain the most important feature of motherboard and CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a better motherboard without graphic included, which is always expensive.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="1e10ec41-c45d-4a87-afca-b85ed4012c13" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:55:25.167" UserId="219" Comment="added 121 characters in body" Text="What companies should I look to for purchasing a top end non-smart TV?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the entirely plausible set of scenarios where [Smart TV's are susceptible to malware][1] &amp; the [added cost of the &quot;smartness&quot; is usually not necessary][2], I won't be looking to get a Smart TV anytime soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it seems almost every manufacturer has jumped on this bangwagon full steam ahead. Who hasn't? Anyone still focusing on just the display part? Some examples?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a certain point the TV hardware starts to resemble Monitors in terms of performance/size. Maybe it would just be better to look towards monitor manufacturers that make large screens?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example: http://www.vizio.com/tvs.html?screen_size_range=765,767,769,771&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the larger TV's are Smart TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20160108/07020333277/tvs-now-smart-enough-to-get-hijacked-pick-up-malware.shtml&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techdirt.com/blog/innovation/articles/20120221/03352017827/smart-tvs-not-such-smart-idea.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1787" RevisionGUID="6adbd268-83bc-47e2-ae38-18cde883412b" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:18:51.670" UserId="1512" Text="For some reason, my fingers have started hurting and typing very desyncedly. For example, I type &quot;teh&quot; a lot and put spaces before I really should. The ergonomics of the keyboard is so bad. The Home/End/Insert/Delete/Etc. is too far to the right, numpad as well and mouse too. My back is bent sideways and I look like Steve Hawking. I'm wondering if there's something like a keyboard that can be used as a text input method for my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must be able to act like a PC keyboard software-wise, be powered by USB, be able to type all letters of a keyboard, be able to switch to different keyboard language layouts (for example, English, Croatian, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1787" RevisionGUID="6adbd268-83bc-47e2-ae38-18cde883412b" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:18:51.670" UserId="1512" Text="Alternative to a PC keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1787" RevisionGUID="6adbd268-83bc-47e2-ae38-18cde883412b" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:18:51.670" UserId="1512" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1788" RevisionGUID="ac6ac72a-2643-4bb0-bff4-47dc4d242f41" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:38:17.217" UserId="214" Text="If you want a TV without all the perceived smart-TV risk, just buy *any* TV with the  features you want and *disable* the Internet and wireless settings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Boom, instant *non*-smart TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a cutting-edge (for the time) 60&quot; Sharp Aquos four-color 240fps 3D full HDTV for over a year before I turned the Internet on. I just had no use for it (at the time). I just wanted a nice TV with a great picture&amp;hellip; like you are looking for here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any TV with with an advanced feature set will also have advanced configuration settings. Just turn off what you don't want and enjoy the rest.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="62782df7-2d42-45d0-98c9-b686b358329d" CreationDate="2016-01-14T18:03:45.667" UserId="219" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="What companies should I look to for purchasing a top end non-smart TV?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the entirely plausible set of scenarios where [Smart TV's are susceptible to malware][1] &amp; the [added cost of the &quot;smartness&quot; is usually not necessary][2], I won't be looking to get a Smart TV anytime soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it seems almost every manufacturer has jumped on this bangwagon full steam ahead. Who hasn't? Anyone still focusing on just the display part? Some examples?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a certain point the TV hardware starts to resemble Monitors in terms of performance/size. Maybe it would just be better to look towards monitor manufacturers that make large screens?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example: http://www.vizio.com/tvs.html?screen_size_range=765,767,769,771&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the larger TV's are Smart TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20160108/07020333277/tvs-now-smart-enough-to-get-hijacked-pick-up-malware.shtml&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techdirt.com/blog/innovation/articles/20120221/03352017827/smart-tvs-not-such-smart-idea.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1788" RevisionGUID="acb8f1ac-43e1-415a-ae77-0db5e906f3e2" CreationDate="2016-01-14T18:14:01.567" UserId="214" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="If you want a modern TV without all the perceived smart-TV risk, just buy *any* TV with the  features you want and *disable* the Internet and wireless settings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Boom, instant *non*-smart TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a cutting-edge (for the time) 60&quot; Sharp Aquos four-color 240fps 3D full HDTV for over a year before I turned the Internet on. I just had no use for it (at the time). I just wanted a nice TV with a great picture&amp;hellip; like you are looking for here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any TV with with an advanced feature set will also have advanced configuration settings. Just turn off what you don't want and enjoy the rest.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1789" RevisionGUID="bae54ebc-d27c-43b8-a418-15f77a404ea3" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:31:01.363" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="Hmm so what you are looking for is something I had in mind as well. keep in mind mine was supposed to serve as a NAS and a Plex server so might be not exactly what you want. So here is my list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157390&#xD;&#xA;CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117374&#xD;&#xA;Case(any mini ITX rated case will do): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117374&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256097&#xD;&#xA;Memory (8GB is more than enough): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148545&amp;cm_re=DDR3-_-20-148-545-_-Product &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any drive you think is good for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So u don't actually need a lot of processing power. The trick is to understand what you will be using most. Mysql usually only runs on 1 thread, same as SSH. I seriously doubt u will stress the Pentium CPU. if you need more power then you should consider some other alternative. (But seriously, unless you are going to serve content to 20 users at the same time, you should be fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thats just my 2 cents.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mother board does not have IPMI!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if you want to be able to control the board without a monitor or keyboard you will need IPMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So this MB looks ok: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157466" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6498" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1789" RevisionGUID="47b12aeb-dcb2-4119-abf4-a7110eb9a097" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:48:03.217" UserDisplayName="user588" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="Hmm so what you are looking for is something I had in mind as well. keep in mind mine was supposed to serve as a NAS and a Plex server so might be not exactly what you want. So here is my list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157390&#xD;&#xA;CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117374&#xD;&#xA;Case(any mini ITX rated case will do): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117374&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256097&#xD;&#xA;Memory (8GB is more than enough): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148545&amp;cm_re=DDR3-_-20-148-545-_-Product &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any drive you think is good for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So u don't actually need a lot of processing power. The trick is to understand what you will be using most. Mysql usually only runs on 1 thread, same as SSH. I seriously doubt u will stress the Pentium CPU. if you need more power then you should consider some other alternative. (But seriously, unless you are going to serve content to 20 users at the same time, you should be fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thats just my 2 cents.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mother board does not have IPMI!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if you want to be able to control the board without a monitor or keyboard you will need IPMI (when SSH is offline. Ex: when you are in BIOS or something like that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So this MB looks ok: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157466" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="ab923d86-0b98-4924-8052-851d295ecb01" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:03:39.250" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="I ordered a new case for my ITX build it's&#xD;&#xA;[Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white)][1].&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to light it with cold white light but I have to choose a source of light. I have two favourites (both powered by PSU):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cold Cathode (Revoltec) - one 300 mm at the top and one at the bottom of the case (if they will fit) or two 100 mm at the top and two at the bottom (if 300 mm won't fit). &#xD;&#xA; - LED Strip (5050, 12V, Color: Cold White) - around the whole case or only at the top and bottom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Which configuration will consume less power (Watts)?&#xD;&#xA; 2. Which configuration provides more light? &#xD;&#xA; 3. Any pros/cons for this configurations?&#xD;&#xA; 4. Any other possible solutions?&#xD;&#xA; 5. Which will look better (I know it is subjective opinion, but what do you think)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After using &quot;Peter Zhu's&quot; answer, I lit it with LED strips (3528, 12V, Color: Cold White) and below you can find a photo of it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (white) with cold white LED stripes][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/IaaxB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1672" RevisionGUID="ab923d86-0b98-4924-8052-851d295ecb01" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:03:39.250" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 54, 57 edit id of 364" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1770" RevisionGUID="4a8f6754-5f0a-4ad5-8706-983d87fb6147" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:09:02.870" UserId="57" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a keyboard with the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no forced incline&#xD;&#xA;- full-size layout (i.e. not compact layout)&#xD;&#xA;- flat keys&#xD;&#xA;- Apple QWERTY layout (i.e., standard layout of official Apple keyboards sold in the United States), or something close to it.&#xD;&#xA;- thin&#xD;&#xA;- wired or wireless is fine (slight preference toward wireless though)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - below 100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - available in the United States&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear on the terms:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with forced incline: [MB110LL/B](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DPF08E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with flat key: [MYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY9F8HW/ref=twister_B019DHSBPQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of keyboard with compact layout:  [GMYLE® Ultra Thin Wired USB Mini Keyboard for Mac and PC](http://www.amazon.com/GMYLE%C2%AE-Ultra-Thin-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B003PHJJV6/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of thin keyboard: [Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-920-000914-Illuminated-Keyboard-K740/dp/B001F51G16):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More generally, a keyboard similar to the Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740 but with Apple layout would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/l9eenm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wlEoSm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dFnUlm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxq7Km.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1790" RevisionGUID="d49439e4-44ed-4ced-875a-792c3b055bf2" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:23:24.043" UserId="1184" Text="I'd reccomend the **[Logitech K750 Solar](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-solar-keyboard-k750-mac)**.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;I have this keyboard and it's pretty great. Its wireless, solar and designed for Mac. It also has flat keys, and a full keyboard layout. It's pretty thin too. This keyboard is pretty much *perfect* and I've had no complaints. The Solar means no recharging and it does *very* well.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XXk.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1790" RevisionGUID="d7812769-134f-4c20-b350-4e08f3a3bcb4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:31:58.407" UserId="1184" Comment="added 261 characters in body" Text="I'd recommend the **[Logitech K750 Solar](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-solar-keyboard-k750-mac)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had this keyboard for over a year and it's perfect. I have zero complaints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very familiar with Apple's keyboards so the shift to this keyboard has been effortless. It's thin, and has flat keys. The layout is also designed for mass with the function keys having their appropriate icons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solar Powered (I've had this almost year and it's still 100%)&#xD;&#xA; - Flat keys&#xD;&#xA; - Thin design&#xD;&#xA; - Full-size keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - Apple Layout / Design&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is **$59.99** USD, though you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XXk.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1790" RevisionGUID="06bb6b96-cb35-46af-80fb-8deebd5b286c" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:36:29.317" UserId="40" Comment="add pictures" Text="I'd recommend the **[Logitech K750 Solar](http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-solar-keyboard-k750-mac)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had this keyboard for over a year and it's perfect. I have zero complaints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very familiar with Apple's keyboards so the shift to this keyboard has been effortless. It's thin, and has flat keys. The layout is also designed for mass with the function keys having their appropriate icons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Solar Powered (I've had this almost year and it's still 100%)&#xD;&#xA; - Flat keys&#xD;&#xA; - Thin design&#xD;&#xA; - Full-size keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - Apple Layout / Design&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is **$59.99** USD, though you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thin:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available colors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UhMhF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/g5GvK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UIKaU.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1790" RevisionGUID="06bb6b96-cb35-46af-80fb-8deebd5b286c" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:36:29.317" Comment="Proposed by 40 approved by 1184 edit id of 365" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1791" RevisionGUID="435ae038-d5f9-4ecf-8e3e-e777b1fa39d2" CreationDate="2016-01-15T03:03:07.170" UserId="1512" Text="I'm wondering if there's a USB stick (not HDMI stick) with computer things inside (processor, RAM, etc.) which plugs into another PC. I've had an idea like this as a kid, but many sticks don't plug into another PC, but with HDMI into a TV, but I'm not able to afford an HDMI TV so I'm stuck with VGA. My idea was that the PC into which the USB stick is connected opens up an application from the USB stick's special root folder which is like a terminal program. The program interchanges data between the PC and the USB stick so that the keyboard, mouse, microphone, USB, etc. of the host PC get onto the USB stick while the USB stick's monitor data and sound data gets to the host PC's screen and speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, is this really possible? Does it even exist or is it in my imagination?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1791" RevisionGUID="435ae038-d5f9-4ecf-8e3e-e777b1fa39d2" CreationDate="2016-01-15T03:03:07.170" UserId="1512" Text="Does a stick PC like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1791" RevisionGUID="435ae038-d5f9-4ecf-8e3e-e777b1fa39d2" CreationDate="2016-01-15T03:03:07.170" UserId="1512" Text="&lt;portable&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="8fdca409-68bf-45e8-8bb7-ed2f6b80c573" CreationDate="2016-01-15T06:43:06.030" UserId="968" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse and keyboard. They'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (under $20-40USD together depending on how many of my preferred features they meet)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Not wireless (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has nice scrollwheel, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (those are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is less than 18 inches wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has decent rollover (e.g. 4 at the bare minimum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has enough backlighting that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard; I'd make this a requirement, except that finding a decent backlit keyboard in my price range is so dang difficult)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has on-the-fly adjustable DPI (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is relatively quiet (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any lighting can be turned on and off&#xD;&#xA; - Any lighting is green to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like macros, dynamic backlighting, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - A number pad on the keyboard (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="8fdca409-68bf-45e8-8bb7-ed2f6b80c573" CreationDate="2016-01-15T06:43:06.030" UserId="968" Text="Mouse and keyboard for general use and gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="8fdca409-68bf-45e8-8bb7-ed2f6b80c573" CreationDate="2016-01-15T06:43:06.030" UserId="968" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mouse&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="06d15911-68f4-4e15-9deb-5f6440c50300" CreationDate="2016-01-15T06:52:36.873" UserId="968" Comment="added 151 characters in body; edited body" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse and keyboard. They'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (under $20-40USD together depending on how many of my preferred features they meet)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - Not wireless (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has nice scrollwheel, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (these are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is less than 19 inches wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has decent rollover (e.g. 4 at the bare minimum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has enough backlighting that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard; I'd make this a requirement, except that finding a decent backlit keyboard in my price range is so dang difficult)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has on-the-fly adjustable DPI (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is relatively quiet (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any lighting can be turned on and off&#xD;&#xA; - Any lighting is green to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like macros, dynamic backlighting, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - A number pad on the keyboard (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse and keyboard can be a combo or they can be completely separate; I really don't care as long as they are, put together, in my price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="6afc9270-7382-47a0-a54e-92ee93749068" CreationDate="2016-01-15T07:02:21.517" UserId="968" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse and keyboard. They'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $20-40USD together** depending on how many of my preferred features they meet)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has **nice scrollwheel for gaming**, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (these are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is **less than 19 inches** wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has **decent rollover** (e.g. 4 at the bare minimum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard has enough **backlighting** that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard; **this is almost a requirement**, it's just not something I'm willing to pay a ton for)&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse has on-the-fly **adjustable DPI** (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is **relatively quiet** (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros, dynamic backlighting**, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - **A number pad** on the keyboard (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse and keyboard can be a combo or they can be completely separate; I really don't care as long as they are, put together, in my price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="c97d8ebb-fad5-48a2-afaf-38a065268486" CreationDate="2016-01-15T09:26:16.597" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1794" RevisionGUID="5eda91da-6e90-49dd-9e5c-0817e7932617" CreationDate="2016-01-15T09:55:18.493" UserId="1366" Text="In this price range I would choose:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [CM Storm Devastator - LED Gaming Keyboard and Mouse Combo Bundle][1]. It is available in Newegg shop in Blue/Red LED for $29.99 and in Green LED for $41.37.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you can find additional funds I would recommend other keyboard and mouse:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard: [Gigabyte Force K7][2] which costs arond $50&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse: [Roccat Lua][3] which week ago I saw in Amazon for $20 but now it costs $35.89 (maybe it will be on sale again)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both mouse and keyboard have better parameters than CM set and they are absolute minimum for gaming. If you are not interested in better precision and reacion times then take CM set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129030&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4565#ov&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.roccat.org/en-US/Products/Gaming-Mice/Lua/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1795" RevisionGUID="d748c18f-0381-45e0-a9ea-42df2e14cbf2" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:44:01.520" UserId="1364" Text="well, assuming the fact that you want a good phone for development you might be interested in the moto g3 which has a very good battery, almost no bloat-ware and runs near stock android. The moto g3 also has  front facing speakers and a 5-inch screen which looks stunning even-though it has a 720p display (294ppi). The phone currently is running android 6.0 and might recieve update for another android version. &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="4b427ae6-7e6f-41b2-861f-67e289acdcc8" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:23.367" UserId="968" Comment="deleted 495 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 39 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a new keyboard ([and a mouse, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $20-$30USD**, depending on how many of my preferred features it meets)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Less than 19 inches** wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - **Decent rollover** (e.g. 4 at the bare minimum)&#xD;&#xA; - Enough **backlighting** that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Relatively quiet** (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros, dynamic backlighting**, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - **A number pad** (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard can be in a combo with a mouse, as long as the mouse fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1797/968" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="4b427ae6-7e6f-41b2-861f-67e289acdcc8" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:23.367" UserId="968" Comment="deleted 495 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 39 characters in body" Text="Keyboard for general use and gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="4b427ae6-7e6f-41b2-861f-67e289acdcc8" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:23.367" UserId="968" Comment="deleted 495 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 39 characters in body" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1797" RevisionGUID="60000cbd-f648-445b-a141-cb74b8367ca3" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:35.017" UserId="968" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse ([and a keyboard, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $40USD together** with a keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Nice scrollwheel for gaming**, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (these are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has on-the-fly **adjustable DPI** (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros**, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can be in a combo with a keyboard, as long as the keyboard fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1793/968" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1797" RevisionGUID="60000cbd-f648-445b-a141-cb74b8367ca3" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:35.017" UserId="968" Text="Mouse for general use and gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1797" RevisionGUID="60000cbd-f648-445b-a141-cb74b8367ca3" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:09:35.017" UserId="968" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1797" RevisionGUID="94af7179-cd00-4186-90e6-24649d3e9ff9" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:14:37.387" UserId="968" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse ([and a keyboard, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $10-$15USD**, depending on how many of my preferred features it meets)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Nice scrollwheel for gaming**, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (these are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has on-the-fly **adjustable DPI** (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros**, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can be in a combo with a keyboard, as long as the keyboard fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1793/968" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="400d3991-7bea-43d5-8a0d-ba71bff3aab8" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:18:13.593" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="7a4cbcbe-a60e-4e41-b00a-6251c98ead8c" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:08:11.513" UserId="968" Comment="added 872 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a new keyboard ([and a mouse, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard can be in a combo with a mouse, as long as the mouse fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $20-$30USD**, depending on how many of my preferred features it meets)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Less than 19 inches** wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - **Decent rollover** (I can't exactly quantify this as I still haven't figured out exactly how rollover works, but as an example of &quot;decent&quot; I'd need it to register e.g. &lt;kbd&gt;Shift&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;A&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt;, and &lt;kbd&gt;Space&lt;/kbd&gt; at the same time)&#xD;&#xA; - Enough **backlighting** that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Relatively quiet** (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros, dynamic backlighting**, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - **A number pad** (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I have considered:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [CM Storm Devastator][2]: looks great except that it apparently has two-key rollover. I'm not sure exactly what that means, so I don't entirely know whether it would be good enough.&#xD;&#xA; - [CM Storm Octane][3]: good, but a little expensive, and I don't need the extra mouse buttons, dynamic lighting, or 19 key rollover&#xD;&#xA; - [Logitech K120][4]: definitely cheap enough, three-key rollover, but doesn't have backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1797/968&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/gaming/devastator/devastator-green.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/gaming/octane/octane.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/k120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1801" RevisionGUID="131cb8fb-a680-41c9-a8c2-46fc5f9a7565" CreationDate="2016-01-16T09:26:38.413" UserId="67" Text="No, such a thing does not exist. However, you can do something quite similar, even though it's not quite a PC on a USB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I understand your question correctly, you want to use one computer (which may be very old and slow) for it's screen, keyboard, and mouse, and use another computer or device to do the actual processing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example: I use an ancient Pentium 3 laptop as a frontend for a Raspberry Pi. All that's needed is an Ethernet cable, and I have a perfectly capable display, keyboard, and trackpad for my Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To do this, you need is a way to network your two computers (one is the one you want to use for the display, kayboard, and mouse, and the other is the one you want for the actual processing, in my case a Raspberry Pi, but it could also be a HDMI computer on a stick, as long as it has WiFi, USB or Ethernet, or even just a normal desktop or laptop.) In my case I used an Ethernet cable (if your devices don't have ethernet, you can use a USB to Ethernet adapter), but you could also use an ad-hoc WiFi network or even a USB to USB networking solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hook up your two devices, make sure they can talk to each other, and then you can use remote desktop software or SSH to do pretty much what you want. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it's not quite a computer on a USB stick, it's pretty close, with only a single cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: the performance may not be great (With my PI, using it over VNC / Remote desktop is  slow, but usable)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1802" RevisionGUID="b0918a75-a5e2-449f-92b8-13b3c1f3aa91" CreationDate="2016-01-16T13:58:10.483" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1803" RevisionGUID="50f03d53-b681-4915-b6a4-20cdf37f20fd" CreationDate="2016-01-16T13:58:10.483" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1802" RevisionGUID="e524d50f-c5ba-47bc-be10-53d08e568ca5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:52:04.743" UserId="1179" Comment="added 1207 characters in body" Text="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All questions in the system must have at least one tag. Normally, it is not possible to submit new or edited questions that do not have tags; the system will reject the submission until a valid tag is applied.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few unusual situations that can cause this tag to be applied. When a tag has existed for six months and only been used on one question, and no tag wiki has been created for the tag, the system deletes the tag. When the community decides that a given tag can never be appropriate &amp;#8212; for example, because it is misspelled or is off-topic &amp;#8212; moderators may remove the tag from the site _en masse_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When one of these deletions removes the last tag from a question, the system adds the [tag:untagged] tag to that question so that the &quot;all questions must have at least one tag&quot; rule is not broken.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can help clean up some of these questions! If they're good questions, edit them to remove the [tag:untagged] tag and add more descriptive tags. If they're not so good, use the usual tools: downvoting, flagging and voting to close/delete." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1802" RevisionGUID="e524d50f-c5ba-47bc-be10-53d08e568ca5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:52:04.743" Comment="Proposed by 1179 approved by -1 edit id of 367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1802" RevisionGUID="9ee7233e-9421-4c6c-8a9b-84e66a611d57" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:52:04.743" UserId="8" Comment="added 136 characters in body" Text="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All questions in the system must have at least one tag. Normally, it is not possible to submit new or edited questions that do not have tags; the system will reject the submission until a valid tag is applied.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few unusual situations that can cause this tag to be applied. When a tag has existed for six months and only been used on one question, and no tag wiki has been created for the tag, the system deletes the tag. When the community decides that a given tag can never be appropriate &amp;#8212; for example, because it is misspelled or is off-topic &amp;#8212; community managers may remove the tag from the site _en masse_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When one of these deletions removes the last tag from a question, the system adds the [tag:untagged] tag to that question so that the &quot;all questions must have at least one tag&quot; rule is not broken.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tag may also be added to incoming migrations, if the migrated question's original tags do not exist on the target site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can help clean up some of these questions! If they're good questions, edit them to remove the [tag:untagged] tag and add more descriptive tags. If they're not so good, use the usual tools: downvoting, flagging and voting to close/delete." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1803" RevisionGUID="57593f22-6480-4cda-b8d6-ce570e8d9c9f" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:52:13.743" UserId="1179" Comment="added 247 characters in body" Text="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed. Do not add this tag to existing questions, it is reserved for use by the system to identify posts with no valid tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1803" RevisionGUID="57593f22-6480-4cda-b8d6-ce570e8d9c9f" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:52:13.743" Comment="Proposed by 1179 approved by 8 edit id of 368" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1804" RevisionGUID="2ebb6b55-f9b3-4d40-9a03-a0290f59a365" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:54:47.687" UserId="8" Text="According to [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_card):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A sound card (also known as an audio card) is an internal computer expansion card that facilitates economical input and output of audio signals to and from a computer under control of computer programs. The term sound card is also applied to external audio interfaces that use software to generate sound, as opposed to using hardware inside the PC. Typical uses of sound cards include providing the audio component for multimedia applications such as music composition, editing video or audio, presentation, education and entertainment (games) and video projection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1805" RevisionGUID="5ee7a26e-fc43-40ba-b15f-769544791f95" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:54:47.687" UserId="8" Text="For questions about sound interface cards designed for use with computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1807" RevisionGUID="0e9a326d-ea9b-4d63-bda4-01d717e6a8db" CreationDate="2016-01-17T07:54:40.910" UserId="1538" Text="I have a &quot;Early 2008&quot; Mac Pro (MacPro3,1) which has a NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT in it (the [mid-range choice](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/faq/mac-pro-default-graphics-cards-dvi-dual-link-mini-displayport.html) at the time).  Unfortunately, it only has 512 MB of VRAM, and that's getting to be more and more of a restriction.  The rest of the computer still meets all my needs (or can be upgraded), so it's time to replace the card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something gaming focused, although I'm not expecting (or looking for) something that can render the latest twitch-based FPS on SuperUltraHigh quality at 120 FPS.  I just want something that can handle the &quot;High&quot; quality settings for moderately recent (e.g. 2014) games at a reasonably smooth speed.  Example games would include Civ V, The Talos Principle, and Wolfenstein: The New Order (with Bootcamp). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I don't know enough about relative performance of cards to know what a good buy for that would be, or even how to define a requirement.  So here's the rest of my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for the standard Mac boot screens (either natively or via a [flashing service](http://www.macvidcards.com/store/c2/Nvidia_GPUs.html))&#xD;&#xA;* Price under $1000.  If it needs to be flashed, that needs to be included in the price.&#xD;&#xA;* Support for 2+ monitors.  Specific outputs don't matter, although at least one DVI port would be nice. (I'm buying a new monitor at the same time, and can get a adapter as needed for the other.)&#xD;&#xA;* Compatible with the limitations of my computer (PCIe 2.0 x16, 225W max draw)&#xD;&#xA;* Quiet under non-gaming usage (i.e. not significantly louder than the computer's own fans)&#xD;&#xA;* Works under Windows (via Bootcamp) as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Price under $500.&#xD;&#xA;* Relatively quiet while gaming (shouldn't be so loud as to be heard in the next room)&#xD;&#xA;* No known compatibility issues with Parallels Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently considering the [GeForce GTX680 Mac Edition](http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-DisplayPort-Graphics-02G-P4-3682-KR/dp/B00C81T7ZS), but I don't know if that meets all of my performance or noise requirements.  Any support for buying it or alternative recommendations would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1807" RevisionGUID="0e9a326d-ea9b-4d63-bda4-01d717e6a8db" CreationDate="2016-01-17T07:54:40.910" UserId="1538" Text="Graphics card upgrade for a &quot;Early 2008&quot; Mac Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1807" RevisionGUID="0e9a326d-ea9b-4d63-bda4-01d717e6a8db" CreationDate="2016-01-17T07:54:40.910" UserId="1538" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1808" RevisionGUID="fcbee193-37b0-4aa1-b78b-6cd18da49f66" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:01:15.610" UserId="531" Text="Sounds a lot like the [USB armoury][1] which I found googling for a remarkably similar, older product whose name I still don't remember. The feature list suggests you could emulate a device for communications with the host/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    NXP i.MX53 ARM® Cortex™-A8 800Mhz, 512MB DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA;    USB host powered (&lt;500 mA) device with compact form factor (65 x 19 x 6 mm)&#xD;&#xA;    ARM® TrustZone®, secure boot + storage + RAM&#xD;&#xA;    microSD card slot&#xD;&#xA;    5-pin breakout header with GPIOs and UART&#xD;&#xA;    customizable LED, including secure mode detection&#xD;&#xA;    excellent native support (Android, Debian, Ubuntu, Arch Linux)&#xD;&#xA;    USB device emulation (CDC Ethernet, mass storage, HID, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;    Open Hardware &amp; Software&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, for that price, you could probably get a cheap HDMI display for about half the price instead&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://inversepath.com/usbarmory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1733" RevisionGUID="1558fe76-e6b6-4b26-b1ed-2252e51631c5" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:11:04.757" UserId="1433" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a notebook that supports 32 GB RAM. You can recommend one or multiple (all notebooks with 32 GB RAM support you know) devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already tried to find something by myself, but with Google I only found a small number of very expensive gaming notebooks or mobile workstations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Supports 32 GB RAM. Bonus points if it's pre-installed.&#xD;&#xA;- Between 600 and 1300 Dollar/ Euros.&#xD;&#xA;- Sufficient processing power to run virtualisation stuff: VMs, servers, cloud computing software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any more than a basic graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't *mind* having anything that's *Not Required*, but it's non-essential and must meet the requirements first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a new goods notebook, with two years manufacturer warranty!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1801" RevisionGUID="dbd2ab1f-1748-4fc8-9319-61efc1df91c0" CreationDate="2016-01-17T16:03:25.747" UserId="67" Comment="typo" Text="No, such a thing does not exist. However, you can do something quite similar, even though it's not quite a PC on a USB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I understand your question correctly, you want to use one computer (which may be very old and slow) for it's screen, keyboard, and mouse, and use another computer or device to do the actual processing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an example: I use an ancient Pentium 3 laptop as a frontend for a Raspberry Pi. All that's needed is an Ethernet cable, and I have a perfectly capable display, keyboard, and trackpad for my Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To do this, you need a way to network your two computers (one is the one you want to use for the display, kayboard, and mouse, and the other is the one you want for the actual processing, in my case a Raspberry Pi, but it could also be a HDMI computer on a stick, as long as it has WiFi, USB or Ethernet, or even just a normal desktop or laptop.) In my case I used an Ethernet cable (if your devices don't have ethernet, you can use a USB to Ethernet adapter), but you could also use an ad-hoc WiFi network or even a USB to USB networking solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hook up your two devices, make sure they can talk to each other, and then you can use remote desktop software or SSH to do pretty much what you want. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it's not quite a computer on a USB stick, it's pretty close, with only a single cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: the performance may not be great (With my PI, using it over VNC / Remote desktop is  slow, but usable)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1752" RevisionGUID="c3536471-8833-4b68-a321-d529b398b702" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:33:32.813" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="It appears that the Be Quiet 500W Straight Power 10 is a reasonably priced very quiet PSU - it is 10.7 dB loud on 50% load and 15.6 db at 100%, due to enormous, for PSU standards, 135 mm fan and very low max speed which is 1200 rpm&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. It's currently [$9 above][2] the budget, but I think it's definitely worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/527&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1810" RevisionGUID="0e1cc12e-d662-48bb-9a8f-3a77be2683fd" CreationDate="2016-01-18T01:19:23.953" UserId="153" Text="I would reccomend buying a laptop from digital storm. You can customize your laptop to your likings and price range. Most of the laptops they have are themed towards gaming but they can be used to run vms and all that stuff. You can customize your computer so if you do not want a graphics card you do not have to have a graphics card. Most of there laptops support 32gb of ram and you can have several different options for CPUs so you can get one that fits your performance and price needs. Everything also comes pre installed. I believe this should meet all of your requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1811" RevisionGUID="b79bc101-bec8-44d0-a103-535caeb3c607" CreationDate="2016-01-18T03:49:30.123" UserId="1288" Text="I am currently using the [Logitech G100s][1]. It is a cheap, no frills mouse. It has a clicky scroll wheel, and a button to choose the DPI. It has no lighting, no macros, and I find it to be suitably comfortable. The software used to select where your DPI choices are for the button to cycle through supports 1-5 different DPIs between 250 and 2500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is slightly more than your budget, however I feel it is a very solid offering and well worth the extra money at about $15-25 depending on where you purchase it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SH30V6A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1812" RevisionGUID="7c456434-0ef8-4806-bb0a-aca4779f103e" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:22:06.920" UserId="1545" Text="I'm looking to get a new desktop PC within the next month or so, but I'm no computer expert and I'm not sure what sort of hardware to look for that would suit my needs and be within my budget of 500 USD. Those needs are: &#xA;&#xA;Can handle games such as Skyrim, Fallout 4, and Dragon Age Inquisition with ease, has a SSD with at least 700gb of space, preferably more, has at minimum 6gb ram, can handle multiple OS installations (so I can install and run Windows, Linux, and Mac OSes from the same machine), should have hardware that's Mac capable.&#xA;&#xA;What I'd need it for is gaming and web development.&#xA;&#xA;What I don't need is a monitor, keyboard, or mouse.&#xA;&#xA;I would also really like something small and lightweight, like a mini PC, because I have no internet where I live and would have to move the computer around between my house and my parent's house, but I can't get a laptop because they burn out too fast from hard use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1812" RevisionGUID="7c456434-0ef8-4806-bb0a-aca4779f103e" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:22:06.920" UserId="1545" Text="New Desktop PC for Extreme Gamer and Web Developer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1812" RevisionGUID="7c456434-0ef8-4806-bb0a-aca4779f103e" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:22:06.920" UserId="1545" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1812" RevisionGUID="d8228ad4-a95e-427c-88e2-939a87e86990" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:41:14.360" UserId="1545" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a new desktop PC within the next month or so, but I'm no computer expert and I'm not sure what sort of hardware to look for that would suit my needs and be within my budget of 500 USD. Those needs are: &#xA;&#xA;Can handle games such as Skyrim, Fallout 4, and Dragon Age Inquisition with ease, has at least 700gb of space, preferably more, and preferably an SSD, has at minimum 6gb ram, can handle multiple OS installations (so I can install and run Windows, Linux, and Mac OSes from the same machine), should have hardware that's Mac capable.&#xA;&#xA;What I'd need it for is gaming and web development.&#xA;&#xA;What I don't need is a monitor, keyboard, or mouse.&#xA;&#xA;I would also really like something small and lightweight, like a mini PC, because I have no internet where I live and would have to move the computer around between my house and my parent's house, but I can't get a laptop because they burn out too fast from hard use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1813" RevisionGUID="dc450b18-92e8-4b04-b0c8-4823db03dd11" CreationDate="2016-01-18T09:01:20.480" UserId="1546" Text="So i bought a Razer Tiamat 7.1 headset, i was a bit silly though and thought the usb that connect the headset to the computer was not just to power the headset. Im using a laptop and it obviously doesnt have a 7.1 sound card. it does come with female 3.5mm jacks to micro usb, but its meant for connecting other speakers through the control unit of the headphones, but maybe there is a way to hack it so it uses it to connect the headphones to the laptops usb instead, but i doubt so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So are their any decent solutions for going from 7.1 3.5mm jacks to usb? or hdmi. Also dont want to spend more than $50 on a solution for this. otherwise i guess ill be destined to use it in 2.1 mode until i upgrade to a desktop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1813" RevisionGUID="dc450b18-92e8-4b04-b0c8-4823db03dd11" CreationDate="2016-01-18T09:01:20.480" UserId="1546" Text="USB 7.1 sound card, or converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1813" RevisionGUID="dc450b18-92e8-4b04-b0c8-4823db03dd11" CreationDate="2016-01-18T09:01:20.480" UserId="1546" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1814" RevisionGUID="5447e750-73c3-4b67-8373-544c818d4839" CreationDate="2016-01-18T09:54:50.223" UserId="1366" Text="Firstly, I would suggest raising budget if you want to play games in high graphics settings because desktop within 500 USD budget will not run new games like Fallout 4 in full details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**500 USD - PC:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: **60 USD** [Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3][1]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: **115 USD** [Intel Core i3-4170][2]&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: **160 USD** [Gigabyte GTX 950 OC][3]&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: **35 USD** [Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB)][4]&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: **48 USD** [Seagate Barracuda 1TB][5]&#xD;&#xA; - PSU: **40 USD** [EVGA 100-W1-500-KR 500W][6]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE: **35 USD** [RAIJINTEK ARCADIA][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This set will cost **493 USD** but if you want to play new games in full details I would recommend to save additional cash for GTX 970 (~300 USD) and Intel Core i5 (for example &quot;4690&quot; - 225 USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128662&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117543&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125810&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148719&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438016&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2AM-002C-00004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1816" RevisionGUID="44789eb9-fac9-4865-ad92-ca476c5bcac4" CreationDate="2016-01-18T14:27:54.160" UserId="531" Text="Tried to get the best build I could under the budget. Its skylake/pentium based and quite certainly reflects some of my build biases. Its designed to be a *simple* machine with relatively few compromises and the option to upgrade as funds are available. @ivaan's machine is probably *another* useful starting point though I went for slightly more modern, smaller parts. I've linked the PC parts picker list so you can play around&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Yy3XjX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Yy3XjX/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor  ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/DL Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($92.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($74.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($62.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card  ($139.99 @ Micro Center) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case  ($38.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: *Cooler Master Elite Power 400W ATX Power Supply  ($29.99 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $498.81&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a *starting point*. Its useful to understand why I picked certain parts, and what you can replace them with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So... compromises - I went for the lowest end pentium I could, for low cost and power efficiency. A proper core i3 or i5 would be nice. I went with skylake since there's a few useful features &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went for 16gb of ram, personal bias, and you could save a few dollars going for less, but this maxes out the ram. Depends on your needs but 2x4 would work. This is DDR4 ram, rather than DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asrock's reasonably solid these days, and a mini itx motherboard/case is about as small as you can go and still game. This one's wierd and dosen't support m.2 but I was trying to minmax for cost+trustybrandedness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Went for a mini itx compatable small video card - maybe a 960 or a r9 nano would be a step up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cooler master Elite 110 is a nice small case that takes a full size PSU. I find small form factor PSUs limiting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PSU is a compromise for cost. I'd much rather a modular PSU in a mini ITX build .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd use stock cooling here - its good enough, small, and I have not much of a budget to design off of. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HGST is basically the *most reliable* consumer hard drives you can buy. Its not that much more, and I trust them. I guess you could swap this for a SSD or a smaller drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1817" RevisionGUID="04e6a9df-a7ff-453b-849b-14f6ec6959c1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:05:44.707" UserId="1551" Text="I got the new MacBook and it runs amazingly, and I got Apple's USBC to USBA adapter.  My only issue is that I cannot charge and use my external USB devices at the same time (I have a USB 3.0 Hub with a mouse, headphones, external HD, and 2 xbox controllers).  I looked pretty hard to find a reasonably priced USBC splitter but all I could find is [Apple's $79 3 way splitter][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are your recommendations for a reasonably priced (preferably less than or equal to $20) USB 3.1 splitter.  It only needs to output 2 USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ1K2AM/A/usb-c-digital-av-multiport-adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6610" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1817" RevisionGUID="04e6a9df-a7ff-453b-849b-14f6ec6959c1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:05:44.707" UserId="1551" Text="Inexpensive USB 3.1 splitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1817" RevisionGUID="04e6a9df-a7ff-453b-849b-14f6ec6959c1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:05:44.707" UserId="1551" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1818" RevisionGUID="7f170fb2-0b97-40b7-8a82-9121a6a73d27" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:49:03.760" UserId="1552" Text="I bought this bad boy today, but it runs kinda hot. If it gets hotter, is slows down its frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=C2750D4I#Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you guys recommend me a fan that can keep it cool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I found the Noctua A8 ( With 6 years of warranty ) that also fits perfectly on the fan slot I have in the case, blowing right on top.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://noctua.at/en/nf-a8-pwm.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys have a better option in mind. Price does not matter, as long as it's a good fan." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1818" RevisionGUID="7f170fb2-0b97-40b7-8a82-9121a6a73d27" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:49:03.760" UserId="1552" Text="What is the best cooling solution for ASRock C2750D4I Rack home NAS storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1818" RevisionGUID="7f170fb2-0b97-40b7-8a82-9121a6a73d27" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:49:03.760" UserId="1552" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1817" RevisionGUID="40da388d-c565-46d7-9d2a-83f05a36b958" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:56:11.917" UserId="1551" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I got the new MacBook and it runs amazingly, and I got Apple's USBC to USBA adapter.  My only issue is that I cannot charge and use my external USB devices at the same time (I have a USB 3.0 Hub with a mouse, headphones, external HD, and 2 xbox controllers).  I looked pretty hard to find a reasonably priced USBC splitter but all I could find is [Apple's $79 3 way splitter][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are your recommendations for a reasonably priced (preferably less than or equal to $20) USB 3.1 splitter.  (1 USB type C input with 2 USB type C outputs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ1K2AM/A/usb-c-digital-av-multiport-adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1820" RevisionGUID="0a66f04d-0e84-4d20-b5c9-cc9d88e3c0b2" CreationDate="2016-01-18T21:45:04.353" UserId="1329" Text="I'd say it's not worth spending more money to get more performance out of this or any other 7.1 headset. Just use it in stereo mode if you have no 7.1 source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating systems and applications like games or media players are responsible for handling sound: selecting the appropriate output path and channel profiles, applying dynamic range compression where necessary and so forth. This is particularly true for games where **the soundscape is rendered by the game engine and it doesn't get more accurate** with 2 speakers or headphones than the game engine knowing that it should render a stereo signal. A multichannel downmix by an unknown element in the chain doesn't improve the result it's just a dishonest, technophobe marketing myth and number game that is still around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need a visual example, download [Audacity][1] or any other audio editor, load a *multitrack* audio track from a movie or audio recording and mix it down to stereo. Many people pretend to care much about clean audio. Does the downmix with information from all channels look cleaner to you? No, it doesn't! Good games are able to mix all the information into a high quality stereo signal. With the rise of VR [binaural audio][2] will get more important and virtual 7.1 mixes will hamper your immersion. Please let game engines do their work without interference, the game designers who put them together should know better how to treat audio that they or their customers create.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could suggest to you to get a cheap 7.1 USB soundcard from China, but that's worse than your built-in sound solution. A multichannel audio production interface can actually deliver good quality but is at least three times out of your budget, not very portable and the Windows drivers don't support running the channels as a 7.1 configuration for gaming while the hardware is capable of doing so. I'd rather recommend an O2+ODAC or a similar product and reference headphones if you're already willing to spend +150 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a review][3] from a Razer fan who isn't very impressed with this headset either. I found this video while looking for a picture of the connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://audacityteam.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binaural_beats#Binaural_beats_and_music&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkTlzJgrhY8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1820" RevisionGUID="7713bffb-7236-4079-95a1-9f5324c187d3" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:58:26.383" UserId="1329" Comment="added 228 characters in body" Text="I'd say it's not worth spending more money to get more performance out of this or any other 7.1 headset. Just use it in stereo mode if you have no 7.1 source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating systems and applications like games or media players are responsible for handling sound: selecting the appropriate output path and channel profiles, applying dynamic range compression where necessary and so forth. This is particularly true for games where **the soundscape is rendered by the game engine and it doesn't get more accurate** with 2 speakers or headphones than the game engine knowing that it should render a stereo signal. A multichannel downmix by an unknown element in the chain doesn't improve the result it's just a dishonest, technophobe marketing myth and number game that is still around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Stereo (1), generated Downmix (2) and 5.1 Mix (3-8) of *Paschendale* from Iron Maiden (Sources: 24-Bit FLAC, DVD-A)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need a visual example, download [Audacity][2] or any other audio editor, load a *multitrack* audio track from a movie or audio recording and mix it down to stereo. Many people pretend to care much about clean audio. Does the downmix with information from all channels look cleaner or more detailed to you? No, it doesn't! Good games are able to mix all the information into a high quality stereo signal. With the rise of VR [binaural audio][3] will get more important and virtual 7.1 mixes will hamper your immersion. Please let game engines do their work without interference, the game designers who put them together should know better how to treat audio that they or their customers create.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could suggest to you to get a cheap 7.1 USB soundcard from China, but that's worse than your built-in sound solution. A multichannel audio production interface can actually deliver good quality but is at least three times out of your budget, not very portable and the Windows drivers don't support running the channels as a 7.1 configuration for gaming while the hardware is capable of doing so. I'd rather recommend an O2+ODAC or a similar product and reference headphones if you're already willing to spend +150 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a review][4] from a Razer fan who isn't very impressed with this headset either. I found this video while looking for a picture of the connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UJHGd.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://audacityteam.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binaural_beats#Binaural_beats_and_music&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkTlzJgrhY8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1821" RevisionGUID="8c40e3a1-128b-4600-8e20-518bfe1305f0" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:28:32.837" UserId="1557" Text="For a few years now I have been looking for a consumer-level networked multifunction / all-in-one printer that has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. PostScript duplex printing (not emulation); and&#xD;&#xA; 2. a scanner function that saves monochrome / bi-level scans as JBIG2-compressed PDFs and sends them via email.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only products I have seen that check all of these boxes are a few high-end business machines that cost $7K+.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's 2016 and to me it seems I am not asking for much. Please correct me if I am wrong. Does a consumer-level MFP/all-in-one like this exist, and if it doesn't, do you think it will in the future?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*P.S. I am aware of the Xerox story with JBIG2 compression and number substitution; I am not sure whether that has sunk JBIG2's boat. If that did, it would be unfair, because JBIG2 is great for lossless monochrome compression.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1821" RevisionGUID="8c40e3a1-128b-4600-8e20-518bfe1305f0" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:28:32.837" UserId="1557" Text="PostScript printer and JBIG2 scanner: consumer-level all-in-one / MFP recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1821" RevisionGUID="8c40e3a1-128b-4600-8e20-518bfe1305f0" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:28:32.837" UserId="1557" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1821" RevisionGUID="a137290d-510e-4009-aace-76f199d017fb" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:39:59.380" UserId="1557" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="For a few years now I have been looking for a consumer-level networked multifunction / all-in-one printer that has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. PostScript printing (not emulation);&#xD;&#xA; 2. Duplex printing;&#xD;&#xA; 3. A scanner that saves monochrome / bi-level images as JBIG2-compressed PDFs; **and**&#xD;&#xA; 4. A scan-to-email function (send scanned documents to email)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only products I have seen that check all of these boxes are a few high-end business machines that cost $7K+.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's 2016 and to me it seems I am not asking for much. Please correct me if I am wrong. Does a consumer-level MFP/all-in-one like this exist, and if it doesn't, do you think it will in the future?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*P.S. I am aware of the Xerox story with JBIG2 compression and number substitution; I am not sure whether that has sunk JBIG2's boat. If that did, it would be unfair, because JBIG2 is great for lossless monochrome compression.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="d411e4af-4da5-47e9-97c3-86cd17234f6b" CreationDate="2016-01-19T08:22:53.900" UserId="530" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or Mac OS X should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to Dvorak, Colmak, or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xA;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][1] may help with your back and slumping.&#xA;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xA;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][2]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][3].&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xA;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][4]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [3]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [4]: http://shop.keyboard.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1824" RevisionGUID="a39ec40f-aec8-48a9-b4d6-c718bb15d5bb" CreationDate="2016-01-19T08:33:49.257" UserId="530" Text="# Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad&#xA;&#xA;Apple sells nearly what you want in the [Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad](http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MB110LL/B/apple-keyboard-with-numeric-keypad-english-usa?fnode=56). Costs $ 50 USD.&#xA;&#xA;Just attach some rubber bumpers under the front corners to eliminate the incline.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://store.storeimages.cdn-apple.com/4194/as-images.apple.com/is/image/AppleInc/aos/published/images/M/B1/MB110LL/MB110LL?wid=400&amp;hei=400&amp;fmt=jpeg&amp;qlt=95&amp;op_sharpen=0&amp;resMode=bicub&amp;op_usm=0.5,0.5,0,0&amp;iccEmbed=0&amp;layer=comp&amp;.v=1400774915255&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1825" RevisionGUID="4606b96c-4c8e-4b95-afe1-8041ee969bae" CreationDate="2016-01-19T08:58:11.830" UserId="530" Text="# Marshall Headphones&#xA;&#xA;[Marshall][1] offers headphones with detachable cord.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;The detachable double-ended coil cord with mic and remote is equipped with an L-plug end, providing improved durability and carrying ease. The dual 3.5 mm jacks allow you to choose which side you prefer to wear your cable on or to plug in and share your music with a friend.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://theawesomer.com/photos/2015/01/marshall_major_ii_headphones_1.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.marshallheadphones.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1826" RevisionGUID="07ed0089-f616-4476-8216-fb3f45edaf00" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:19:04.153" UserId="1559" Text="Looking to upgrade my Computer which is used for Gaming, Image editing, Audio capture, Video editing &amp; Recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Processor: Intel Core i7-4771 Quad Core Socket LGA 1150 Processor&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI, Intel H87 MiniITX, Socket 1150&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ram: 8GB DDR3 1600mhz &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Hard Drive: Seagate 2 TB Desktop 3.5 Internal SSHD &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 GPU, MSI ARMOR 2X Overclocked Edition &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Case: Zalman Z7 &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Power Supply: 550W Modular Powercool Black PSU 80 Plus 12cm Fan SATA Power&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Microphone: Blue Microphones Nessie USB Microphone&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Capture Card: Hauppauge HD PVR 2 gaming edition&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking of upgrading the Motherboard, Memory or adding a small SSD as a boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would a different motherboard better the performance of the CPU or GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would faster, larger memory make a difference?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything else I should consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1826" RevisionGUID="07ed0089-f616-4476-8216-fb3f45edaf00" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:19:04.153" UserId="1559" Text="Recommended hardware upgrade for Editing/Gaming PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1826" RevisionGUID="07ed0089-f616-4476-8216-fb3f45edaf00" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:19:04.153" UserId="1559" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1828" RevisionGUID="e17d2455-63f2-4cbd-8d78-e52d7a849397" CreationDate="2016-01-19T12:32:37.420" UserId="987" Text="I don't think you need a better motherboard. it doesn't affect preformence when not overclocking. even if the best pci-e slot is only 8x its good enough for the GTX 970.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of RAM I would personaly add another 8 GB. I would go with the same dimms. but if you need new ones i recomend the Crusial Bulistics series. The DIMMs are cheap and have good preformance and I never had mine fail before. With the extra RAM it can help get a smoother timeline for 1080P editing and photoshopping. as of gaming power 8GB should be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Defently go for an SSD as its a cheap way to get almost always preformance gain. I would personaly go with an Samsung or Intel SSD. asfor Samsung i can recomand the 850 EVO and Pro. as for Intel 730 series SSD should be good. I would get 2 SSDs in my opinion tho. or one large one as i would store my unedited video and primary games on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw just a handy tip. If you are serius about the video and photo editing its handy to get a 10 bit screen with high color aquratie. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1828" RevisionGUID="e59f9017-14ba-453a-ae17-6ecb6ece631a" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:28:29.800" UserId="8" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="I don't think you need a better motherboard. It doesn't affect performance when not overclocked. Even if the best PCIe slot is only 8x it's good enough for the GTX 970.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of RAM I would personally add another 8 GB. I would go with the same DIMMs, but if you need new ones I recommend the Crucial Ballistics series. The DIMMs are cheap and have good performance and I never had mine fail before. With the extra RAM it can help get a smoother timeline for 1080P editing and photoshopping. As for gaming power 8GB should be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definitely go for an SSD as it's a cheap way to almost always get a performance gain. I would personally go with an Samsung or Intel SSD. As for Samsung I can recommend the 850 EVO and Pro, and as for Intel, a 730 series SSD should be good. I would get 2 SSDs in my opinion though, or one large one as I would store my unedited video and primary games on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, just a handy tip. If you are serious about the video and photo editing it's handy to get a 10 bit screen with high color accuracy. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1779" RevisionGUID="43acfcbb-f6ef-4501-a212-993823000822" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:36:03.090" UserId="57" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I've never had a smartphone before, but since I started Android development I thought it would be beneficial to have a physical device -- the emulator has some limitations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do plan to make this phone my daily driver, but I am not really a heavy phone user.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is developer friendly&#xD;&#xA; 2. A nice camera&#xD;&#xA; 3. A mid-sized display - I don't want anything so big that it's tough to carry&#xD;&#xA; 4. Front-facing stereo speakers would be nice but it's not a requirement - I know many HTC phones have these but I have heard that the more recent models tend to get hot&#xD;&#xA; 5. Screen does not get very hot - a phone that runs warm bothers me&#xD;&#xA; 6. Relatively low SAR rating - It can't hurt to have a lower rating phone&#xD;&#xA; 7. Can easily turn off the data plan and use wifi&#xD;&#xA; 8. Fits in my $300-$400 budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a ton of knowledge about phone models and I would really appreciate some recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="3187ccb2-f6da-42d8-987a-c30617212248" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:45:55.197" UserId="57" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="I want to build a small network and security appliance (server) based on a fast Intel Atom CPU. What I need is a Atom CPU (or similar), minimal RAM (1GB is more than enough), a USB drive or SATA Disk On Module (for a small system image), and Gigabit Ethernet. The dimensions of the board aren't important. ARM CPUs are too slow. Most importantly I don't want lots of multimedia and other interfaces which I feel uncomfortable with for robustness and security reasons. What I'm looking for is something specialized like the [Parallela board][1] but for Atom. I am running basically XEN so that the CPU should support visualization. On top of XEN will be MirageOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.parallella.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="609ca1ba-1a9e-46fb-aed3-5a927247a7e8" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:21:12.753" UserId="530" Comment="added 370 characters in body; added 2 characters in body; added 105 characters in body; added 1 character in body; deleted 4 characters in body" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or Mac OS X should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to Dvorak, Colmak, or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xA;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][1] may help with your back and slumping.&#xA;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xA;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][2]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][3].&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xA;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][4]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. It can be completely re-programmed by you or third-parties. For the convenience of non-programmers, they promise to provide a simple utility app to arbitrarily re-assign keys as you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [3]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [4]: http://shop.keyboard.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="7c016e1d-f0dd-4bdc-bc8d-944a5659f68d" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:29:17.747" UserId="530" Comment="added 56 characters in body" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or Mac OS X should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to Dvorak, Colmak, or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xA;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][1] may help with your back and slumping.&#xA;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xA;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][2]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][3].&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xA;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][4]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. It can be completely re-programmed by you or third-parties. For the convenience of non-programmers, they promise to provide a simple utility app to arbitrarily re-assign keys as you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xA;&#xA;You can also program control of each key’s LED light. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [3]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [4]: http://shop.keyboard.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1825" RevisionGUID="891efa39-bdb4-497f-8cf3-b0c7efb4a7a6" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:53:58.100" UserId="530" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="# Marshall Headphones&#xA;&#xA;[Marshall][1] offers headphones with detachable cord.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;The detachable double-ended coil cord with mic and remote is equipped with an L-plug end, providing improved durability and carrying ease. The dual 3.5 mm jacks allow you to choose which side you prefer to wear your cable on or to plug in and share your music with a friend.&#xA;&#xA;See the upper right corner panel in this picture. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://theawesomer.com/photos/2015/01/marshall_major_ii_headphones_1.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.marshallheadphones.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1777" RevisionGUID="84de1cc2-b8fc-4fbe-8664-06c27b9afe04" CreationDate="2016-01-20T03:24:07.140" UserId="-1" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:128,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Zizouz212&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1833" RevisionGUID="d605c981-262d-47d3-8cd7-dcd684c00cb1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:30:15.397" UserId="1570" Text="I spend a lot of my waking hours typing on a keyboard. Now I look for an additional input device, that would allow me to shift some work from my hands to some other part of my body, to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- remove strain from my hands&#xD;&#xA;- allow me to type faster&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a heavy emacs user and thus use a lot of keyboard chords, where I need to press &lt;key&gt;Ctrl&lt;/key&gt; and/or &lt;key&gt;Alt&lt;/key&gt; quite often (probably more often than any other key on the keyboard except for &lt;key&gt;Space&lt;/key&gt;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried pedals that are use for audio transcription (where the pedal is used to pause/unpause the audio recording), but those proved not suitable for quick on/off action. I need to have comparable speed to my left little finger, which I just measured to be at 5 press+release per second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have experience with any low-latency input devices that fit my requirements? I would be happy it if would allow me to control just one key." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1833" RevisionGUID="d605c981-262d-47d3-8cd7-dcd684c00cb1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:30:15.397" UserId="1570" Text="Additional input device to remove workload from hands?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1833" RevisionGUID="d605c981-262d-47d3-8cd7-dcd684c00cb1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:30:15.397" UserId="1570" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1835" RevisionGUID="1baec7a5-4b05-4b48-80ff-7b6be663b3be" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:34:53.500" UserId="1007" Text="For development it is a good idea to get a high-end phone. The nexus 5x is a high-end phone for a great price. It has a front facing speaker, 5.2 inch display with a 1920x1080 resolution. The phone is running android 6.0 and will continue to get updates for the next 2 years. A good reason to get a nexus for development is because of a &quot;skinless (stock android UI)&quot; android meaning less power is used to just have the phone turned on. Originally the nexus line was created for developers. The phone is also in your price range at 349 USD on Amazon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1835" RevisionGUID="e44fdbff-c866-4062-a91c-415dcae0b464" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:40:23.663" UserId="1007" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="For development it is a good idea to get a high-end phone. The nexus 5x is a high-end phone for a great price. It has a front facing speaker, 5.2 inch display with a 1920x1080 resolution. The CPU is a Snapdragon 808 and has 2GB of RAM. The phone is running android 6.0 and will continue to get updates for the next 2 years. A good reason to get a nexus for development is because of a &quot;skinless (stock android UI)&quot; android meaning less power is used to just have the phone turned on. Originally the nexus line was created for developers. The phone is also in your price range at 349 USD on Amazon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1836" RevisionGUID="fc48a6a2-f17f-4db8-b17c-3ad68037b07e" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:49:56.063" UserId="1574" Text="I'm building a system to track school buses that would provide real time updates about the whereabouts of the bus for the students on a mobile app. So I'm looking for a GPS device. Following would be my ideal requirements,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cheap but Reliable &#xD;&#xA; 2. No screens &#xD;&#xA; 3. Program/Configure via USB; Developer friendly &#xD;&#xA; 4. Accepts a sim card for data connection&#xD;&#xA; 5. Sends latitude and longitude data at predefined interval  &#xD;&#xA;   a. either directly to my server (preferred),  &#xD;&#xA;   b. or its manufacturer's with good API for me to work on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone please recommend me a device that would fit my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. I'm terribly sorry if this question does not belong here. Kindly move it to where it does. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1836" RevisionGUID="fc48a6a2-f17f-4db8-b17c-3ad68037b07e" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:49:56.063" UserId="1574" Text="GPS Tracker to integrate with server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1836" RevisionGUID="fc48a6a2-f17f-4db8-b17c-3ad68037b07e" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:49:56.063" UserId="1574" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;api&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1836" RevisionGUID="9d5f36c2-db43-497e-9c6e-edcebb6bdb51" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:45:12.713" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 107 characters in body" Text="I'm building a system to track school buses that would provide real time updates about the whereabouts of the bus for the students on a mobile app. So I'm looking for a GPS device. Following would be my ideal requirements,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cheap but Reliable &#xD;&#xA; 2. No screens &#xD;&#xA; 3. Program/Configure via USB; Developer friendly &#xD;&#xA; 4. Accepts a sim card for data connection&#xD;&#xA; 5. Sends latitude and longitude data at predefined interval  &#xD;&#xA;   a. either directly to my server (preferred),  &#xD;&#xA;   b. or its manufacturer's with good API for me to work on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone please recommend me a device that would fit my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1838" RevisionGUID="6bf5a25e-d8fb-4713-8442-26c4b4afe50a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:45:39.813" UserId="1576" Text="I'm a serious gamer and I'm looking at high end graphics cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the new R9 Fury (and Fury X) feature HBM which is supposedly good for 4K gaming. I currently use 4 1080p monitors connected to my desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an advantage to picking the Fury cards over, say, a GTX 980? Especially given that I do not game at 4K, but I do use several monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, I currently have a Gigabyte GTX 970, will I see any significant performance boost?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1838" RevisionGUID="6bf5a25e-d8fb-4713-8442-26c4b4afe50a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:45:39.813" UserId="1576" Text="Breakdown of new AMD Fury Cards vs Top NVidia Cards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1838" RevisionGUID="6bf5a25e-d8fb-4713-8442-26c4b4afe50a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:45:39.813" UserId="1576" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1839" RevisionGUID="9f2bf408-c9cf-4482-8600-b79a3bc8970a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:32:44.330" UserId="1511" Text="I'm comparing those two models of ASRock B85M, trying to find which one is the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's take a tour:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/compare.it.asp?SelectedModel=B85M+Pro4&amp;SelectedModel=B85M-ITX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm stucked because I found that Pro4 has more RAM slot (4), with max 32GB; ITX only 2 max 16GB. Pro4 has also more PCI slot. The real different is that ITX got also 1xeSata port. I thought that Pro4 was really better than ITX, but still find ITX $30 more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I missing?&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1839" RevisionGUID="9f2bf408-c9cf-4482-8600-b79a3bc8970a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:32:44.330" UserId="1511" Text="B85M Pro4 vs B85M-ITX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1839" RevisionGUID="9f2bf408-c9cf-4482-8600-b79a3bc8970a" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:32:44.330" UserId="1511" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1839" RevisionGUID="82c7beff-b711-4e15-927b-662ebbdbf730" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:39:01.677" UserId="1511" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="I'm comparing those two models of ASRock B85M, trying to find which one is the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's take a tour:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/compare.it.asp?SelectedModel=B85M+Pro4&amp;SelectedModel=B85M-ITX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm stucked because I found that Pro4 has more RAM slot (4), with max 32GB; ITX only 2 max 16GB. Pro4 has also more PCI slot. The real different is that ITX got also 1xeSata port. I thought that Pro4 was really better than ITX, but still find ITX $30 more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I missing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to make a simple home server, using Intel Pentium G3258 and Saphire  HD5750. Another question: is better g3460 with lower GPU feature than g3258? I'll use the saphire for graphic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1840" RevisionGUID="eae592fa-28c3-4650-84cc-2478cdf7d2ca" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:07:14.140" UserId="164" Text="&#xD;&#xA;If you upgrade to the R9 Nano, Fury X, or 980, you will see a definite increase in performance over your GTX 970. However, because you do not play games at 4k and the difference sits between 12-25%, I would wait on either the new NVidia or AMD cards to come out later this ear, and buy those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After the recent price drop, the r9 nano sits at the same price as the GTX 980 ($500 U.S.) and is more powerful, so if you really do want to upgrade, buy the Nano *at that price point*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading further, and you'll see that the 980ti is a better deal than the Fury X at it's price point of $650 U.S, and performs about 10-15% better in most games as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your upgrade also should depend on the kind of work or games you play. If, for example, you do video editing on your computer, I think the upgrade might be a good idea. But if you're just upset with having to tune your settings to high instead of ultra to play at 60fps... I would wait.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that in some games, especially games that use NVidia Gameworks like the Witcher 3, the 970 and 980 will perform better than the r9 nano, but in others, such at Grand Theft Auto 5, the opposite is true.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I would just choose to wait until the new cards come out before upgrading, unless your job requires something more powerful or you have tons of cash lying around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a side note, two 970's in SLI perform very similar to a 980ti, and you will probably save money going this route as well, but doing this will reduce your computer's upgrade ability, and some games and programs do not support SLI." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="38e79e8b-91ab-4c69-b94d-3a42644079af" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:57:00.137" UserId="1578" Text="This might sound strange but the setup is as follows. Raspberry Pi with very high quality sound card is a music centre. Tv/Projector with bluetooth and aptx support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe another way to put it would be, can aptx be used bidirectionally ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to send audio from the TV to the Raspberry Pi with aptx to be output on it's amazing sound card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="38e79e8b-91ab-4c69-b94d-3a42644079af" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:57:00.137" UserId="1578" Text="Is it possible to *receive* aptx audio into a bluetooth dongle?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="38e79e8b-91ab-4c69-b94d-3a42644079af" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:57:00.137" UserId="1578" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1843" RevisionGUID="f8ed9e94-6dae-40cf-b2d3-a7925f59e204" CreationDate="2016-01-20T20:09:17.490" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="The reason for $30 extra for ITX is because it is smaller physically. You are paying for higher precision engineering (same stuff needs to fit into a smaller square) also explains less PCI and RAM ports. The ITX board will also in theory use a bit less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ITX board also has a TPM header the other one doesnt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More info here: &#xD;&#xA;http://superuser.com/questions/810276/why-very-few-modern-motherboards-are-equipped-with-tpm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes the G3460 is going to be better for you if you use the Saphire card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="4bde3069-ca24-46ab-9c62-3c7335b2f57c" CreationDate="2016-01-20T21:29:47.613" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6713" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="59fe16a0-c266-4552-a5a9-73a431d9c6d2" CreationDate="2016-01-20T21:43:18.793" UserId="1578" Comment="deleted 110 characters in body; edited title" Text="This might sound strange but the setup is as follows. Raspberry Pi with very high quality sound card is a music centre. Tv/Projector with bluetooth and aptx support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe another way to put it would be, are there any bidirectional aptx dongles ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="59fe16a0-c266-4552-a5a9-73a431d9c6d2" CreationDate="2016-01-20T21:43:18.793" UserId="1578" Comment="deleted 110 characters in body; edited title" Text="what bluetooth dongle can support aptx audio as a sink (input) ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="95d6f330-09b9-46b6-b9df-dda1b68da618" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:45:21.953" UserId="530" Comment="Linked to Wikipedia." Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][5]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][7]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. It can be completely re-programmed by you or third-parties. For the convenience of non-programmers, they promise to provide a simple utility app to arbitrarily re-assign keys as you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also program control of each key’s LED light. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://shop.keyboard.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1840" RevisionGUID="83630b01-5a99-40f0-86f0-b21e4dc45bde" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:44:10.513" UserId="164" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="If you upgrade to the R9 Nano, Fury X, or 980, you will see a definite increase in performance over your GTX 970. However, because you do not play games at 4k and the difference sits between 12-25%, I would wait on either the new NVidia or AMD cards to come out later this ear, and buy those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After the recent price drop, the r9 nano sits at the same price as the GTX 980 ($500 U.S.) and is more powerful, so if you really do want to upgrade, buy the Nano *at that price point*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading further, and you'll see that the 980ti is a better deal than the Fury X at it's price point of $650 U.S, and performs about 10-15% better in most games as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your upgrade also should depend on the kind of work or games you play. If, for example, you do video editing on your computer, I think the upgrade might be a good idea. But if you're just upset with having to tune your settings to high instead of ultra to play at 60fps... I would wait.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that in some games, especially games that use NVidia Gameworks like the Witcher 3, the 970 and 980 will perform better than the r9 nano, but in others, such at Grand Theft Auto 5, the opposite is true.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I would just choose to wait until the new cards come out before upgrading, unless your job requires something more powerful or you have tons of cash lying around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a side note, two 970's in SLI perform very similar to a 980ti, and you will probably save money going this route as well, but doing this will reduce your computer's upgrade ability, and some games and programs do not support SLI, leaving you with the power of only a single 970." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="0f8d7df8-2d0d-41b2-ada6-0902ee6296cf" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:52:23.427" UserId="164" Text="I have a friend who wants to compose music on his computer, and I plan to buy him an electronic keyboard for his birthday. Problem is, I don't have much of an idea of how to pick a high quality electronic keyboard. These are my guidelines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Space does not matter, he has plenty of desk space, so more keys is better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keys must be full sized, or at least close. He plays the piano already, and doesn't want to have to relearn anything&#xD;&#xA; -  I would like to keep the cost of this peripheral under $50. (I am willing to go over, but not to a ridiculous degree.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="0f8d7df8-2d0d-41b2-ada6-0902ee6296cf" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:52:23.427" UserId="164" Text="Computer Musical Keyboard Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="0f8d7df8-2d0d-41b2-ada6-0902ee6296cf" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:52:23.427" UserId="164" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="440db4d6-6b21-46ac-9e5a-9a4ff045cedb" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:16:41.520" UserId="39" Comment="Trivial grammar edits and a retag because [keyboard] generally means one of those things with the letters and numbers on it." Text="I have a friend who wants to compose music on his computer, and I plan to buy him an electronic keyboard for his birthday. The problem is, I don't have much of an idea of how to pick a high quality electronic keyboard. These are my guidelines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Space does not matter, he has plenty of desk space, so more keys is better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keys must be full sized or at least close. He plays the piano already and doesn't want to have to relearn anything&#xD;&#xA; -  I would like to keep the cost of this peripheral under $50. (I am willing to go over, but not to a ridiculous degree.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="440db4d6-6b21-46ac-9e5a-9a4ff045cedb" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:16:41.520" UserId="39" Comment="Trivial grammar edits and a retag because [keyboard] generally means one of those things with the letters and numbers on it." Text="&lt;music&gt;&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1845" RevisionGUID="440db4d6-6b21-46ac-9e5a-9a4ff045cedb" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:16:41.520" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 164 edit id of 369" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="a8788222-dad8-41c8-a7a9-7a99bfa31971" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:20:04.410" UserId="214" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="348c332e-b7c1-4e02-833c-ee4749753480" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:00:57.237" UserId="39" Comment="FIxed typo; Xen is for virtualization." Text="I want to build a small network and security appliance (server) based on a fast Intel Atom CPU. What I need is an Atom CPU (or similar), minimal RAM (1GB is more than enough), a USB drive or SATA Disk On Module (for a small system image), and Gigabit Ethernet. The dimensions of the board aren't important. ARM CPUs are too slow. Most importantly, I don't want lots of multimedia and other interfaces which I feel uncomfortable with for robustness and security reasons. What I'm looking for is something specialized like the [Parallela board][1] but for Atom. I am running basically XEN so the CPU should support virtualization. On top of XEN will be MirageOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.parallella.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="348c332e-b7c1-4e02-833c-ee4749753480" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:00:57.237" UserId="39" Comment="FIxed typo; Xen is for virtualization." Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1772" RevisionGUID="348c332e-b7c1-4e02-833c-ee4749753480" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:00:57.237" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 60, 54 edit id of 370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="f366b220-c7cb-47ac-9a60-5706f3836fe1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:29:59.587" UserId="1588" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop, which is incredibly slow for VM work, with a tower running VM images that I can remote into from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than a laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation)&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of memory, which is used by compilation processes &#xD;&#xA; * A &quot;nice to have&quot; would be VMs for other family members, if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to pick components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="f366b220-c7cb-47ac-9a60-5706f3836fe1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:29:59.587" UserId="1588" Text="Where to start with picking VM server hardware for development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="f366b220-c7cb-47ac-9a60-5706f3836fe1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:29:59.587" UserId="1588" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="4ae3b5a9-0320-4634-9857-3d487477e2db" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:36:16.660" UserId="1588" Comment="edited title" Text="Picking VM server hardware for development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="4ae3b5a9-0320-4634-9857-3d487477e2db" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:36:16.660" UserId="1588" Comment="edited title" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop, on which I run VMs (but is incredibly slow for VM work), with a tower-based server running VM images that I can remote into from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation)&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of memory, which is used by compilation processes &#xD;&#xA; * A &quot;nice to have&quot; would be VMs for other family members, if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to pick components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="92658c24-6911-436b-bf71-1740a106463e" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:45:33.573" UserId="1588" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation)&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of memory, which is used by compilation processes &#xD;&#xA; * A &quot;nice to have&quot; would be VMs for other family members, if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to pick components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6736" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="ea9c8c62-8b5e-43c6-b697-f03f5e8763ba" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:51:51.820" UserId="1588" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation)&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of memory, which is used by compilation processes &#xD;&#xA; * A &quot;nice to have&quot; would be VMs for other family members, if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6737" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="03faa99f-548f-476c-ab70-45f79d6a2a9f" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:00:04.263" UserId="1588" Comment="deleted 70 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation)&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="33f302c7-5d94-4e25-9a2b-47ec20cfbfef" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:06:49.607" UserId="1588" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="82a7ca82-c68d-48cf-9b11-25910ff1aebe" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:15:24.057" UserId="1588" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which; was thinking of vSphere)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="d6a218f5-c999-410e-851d-616e39959f83" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:02:50.357" UserId="1588" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which; was thinking of vSphere or KVM)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="43e8c898-3580-4386-8e20-32cc9013a916" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:36:39.563" UserId="1588" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which; was thinking of vSphere or KVM)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought one, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1849" RevisionGUID="a86732d3-94aa-4dc8-936b-3cc059bbfd13" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:44:42.177" UserId="1590" Text="I'm looking for an external power supply to power raw SATA disks. The catch is I want a __high quality, well-built__ supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's plenty of supplies on Amazon, eBay, etc. that convert AC power to a 4-pin Molex which can then be easily converted to SATA power. The problem is that it seems that almost all of these are cheap bottom-barrel (Chinese) supplies that feel like a cheap plastic toy. I took a chance and ordered two different ones from Amazon and both times they were so frail and got EXTREMELY hot (enough to make the melting-hot-plastic smell eminate into the room) from running a standard SATA drive - these things seemed like fire hazards!! I'm not willing to risk this again until I can find a supply which is from a reputable electronics manufacturer...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've purchased external enclosures in the past which come with very high quality, well built supplies that feel rock solid and run cool and smooth. They clearly output +5/+12 on a 4-pin mini-DIN. I want a supply like that but with a Molex end (which is easily converted to SATA). I'm not a solderer or anything so finding and modifying one of these isn't an option right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I'm willing to pay a reasonable premium for a quality supply. You do get what you pay for - the Amazon supplies I tried were all $10 and under, but going above that, you start getting into full ATX PSU territory and weeding out actual supplies like " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1849" RevisionGUID="a86732d3-94aa-4dc8-936b-3cc059bbfd13" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:44:42.177" UserId="1590" Text="Power supply to power a raw SATA disk (HIGH-QUALITY supply!)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1849" RevisionGUID="a86732d3-94aa-4dc8-936b-3cc059bbfd13" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:44:42.177" UserId="1590" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1850" RevisionGUID="755d1f85-30a4-4793-b892-5be4e7a5cf0f" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:21:41.487" UserId="1590" Text="If you're OK with the noise and the potentially large power bill, you could always go for an off-lease rack-mount server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I currently own two high-grade but outdated (from the enterprise perspective) servers. One is an Apple Xserve from 2008, which I upgraded to dual quad-core 3GHz Xeon CPUs, 32GB of RAM and 6TB of storage - total cost including server and upgrades was $450. The second is a Dell PowerEdge R900 that I got for $350 - a deal I couldn't pass up - which came with __quad quad-core Xeons (16 cores), 128 Gigabytes of RAM, and eight 146GB 15K SAS disks.__ While I got a good deal on this one, servers of this level of power do appear on eBay in the $400-550 range often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The major issues you'll have with rack mount servers are noise and power consumption. The Xserve is the server I keep running all the time - its noise output is tolerable especially if it's in another room, and its power consumption is roughly the same as a mid-range desktop (250 watts idle, 375 watts under full 8-core load). The PowerEdge unfortunately is a bit too noisy, and even worse, its power consumption would put a hefty premium on my power bill (760 watts idle, 1000 watts under full 16-core load.) It only comes on when I actually plan to use its impressive power. :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are of course other options out there. Dell has smaller 1U servers (PowerEdge 1950 line for example) which are even cheaper, in the sub-$200 range. If you're looking for a traditional desktop formfactor, Dell Precision workstations from 2009-2010 tend to go for decent prices and include many of the same advantages of the PowerEdge servers - ECC RAM, SAS disk support, high maximum RAM, etc. If you're willing to splurge, I've seen 12-core 64GB RAM machines with SAS drives going for $600-700. Of course, I'm not specifically plugging Dell here - HP, IBM, et al all have similar hardware going for roughly equivalent prices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The upshot is that if you're serious about a home virtualization lab solution, older server gear is an awesome way to get into it without spending a huge amount of money. Hardware of this vintage is well past its prime in the enterprise and datacenter market, but it's just right for home users who want some powerful hardware for cheap. You of course forfeit modern things like ultra-low CPU power consumption and newer instruction sets (AES-NI etc), but again, for the cost, can't go wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for virtualization software - My Xserve is currently running VMware ESXi. Apple stopped supporting this machine years ago, but it runs ESXi on the bare metal - and does so beautifully. I have four VMs running constantly, with no appreciable speed issues. I haven't looked into Xen yet, but I will say that one of the biggest drawbacks to the free ESXi server is that VMware does not give you access to vCenter Server, their management engine, for free - thus you miss out on some of the advanced features of ESXi as you are stuck with the older, less capable vSphere Client." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1851" RevisionGUID="7e9f0b38-e23f-45fc-9a95-6408515f9961" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:32:49.967" UserId="1590" Text="You might be interested in the APU boards from PC-Engines. I'm using one for my home-spun router. You get 3 Gig-E interfaces, a dual-core AMD CPU that appears to support virtualization, 2 or 4 GB of RAM, and SD card/mSATA/USB boot capability. You use a serial port to access the system console, and there's no multimedia to speak of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.pcengines.ch/apu1d4.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here in the US I ordered my board from Mini-Box. The 4GB model is $169. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/ALIX-APU-1D4-AMD-G-Series-T40E?sc=8&amp;category=1361&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini-box also carries enclosures and the like to go with it. It uses a standard 12V barrel plug power supply - the same kind that comes with many routers, external hard drives, etc. You may even have one lying around. (I did.) For the serial console, you need a null modem cable and maybe a USB-to-serial adapter depending on what else you have lying around. Putty works great as a serial console app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AMD CPU has performance roughly comparable to Intel's &quot;Bay Trail&quot; Atom series. It's fully x86-64 compatible and runs Linux well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="9e0b4c42-b8c3-45e4-83bb-d917624ae615" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:25:11.567" UserId="1593" Text="I would like to make it more convenient to access the rear panel if my computer, by connecting an extension cord with many ports (preferably 2 or 4). The problem is that I only find USB hubs (which are connected to only one port in a computer). My intention is to avoid reducing the speed, therefore, I'm looking for something that connects one port in a &quot;hub&quot; to one port in a rear panel. Does anyone know such a thing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="9e0b4c42-b8c3-45e4-83bb-d917624ae615" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:25:11.567" UserId="1593" Text="USB &quot;hub&quot; with many inputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6752" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="9e0b4c42-b8c3-45e4-83bb-d917624ae615" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:25:11.567" UserId="1593" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1853" RevisionGUID="28278f5f-6f32-4a10-b825-cd48719639a7" CreationDate="2016-01-22T17:24:13.233" UserId="1364" Text="There are zero products of your specification. I suggest that you purchase multiple extension cables and group them together and simply use them. I dont think you will ever reach out to the rear end of your computer to check out the plugged in cable and plug it out. You can tape those cables together" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="01c59665-f535-4cb5-a600-47d87df92b13" CreationDate="2016-01-22T17:26:04.797" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6755" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="390f27fa-2745-45ce-9a95-502740c4db16" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:04:36.420" UserId="214" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1854" RevisionGUID="dced30e3-e5db-4955-982a-e2accac90898" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:14:30.593" UserId="155" Text="88-key MIDI keyboards for under $50 are a very rare find. Most decently priced ones only have ~50 keys maximum. Based on your budget, I can only recommend the [M-Audio Keystation 49ES Black](http://www.musiciansfriend.com/keyboards-midi/m-audio-keystation-49es-black-with-ableton-lite#productDetail) (~$65 USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 49 full-size keys (velocity-sensitive)&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection for playing virtual instruments and controlling DAWs (also for power)&#xD;&#xA;- Pitch bend, modulation, and octave shift&#xD;&#xA;- Light-weight&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with iOS for mobile composing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big downfall with this keyboard though, and one that 99% of $70 MIDI keyboards have, is no weighted keys. To me, weighted keys make or break a keyboard because they are what truly provide the real piano experience. But if your friend is okay without this, then I fully recommend this product." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1855" RevisionGUID="911de356-f3ec-41b1-a658-ed7fc89a0c82" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:06:02.560" UserId="1594" Text="I think you are probably using the wrong terms here.  You seem to want basically a USB extension, cables, but with the ends that look nice.  What you may be looking for would be something like a **USB patch panel**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These aren't entirely uncommon for rankmount servers.  But I haven't really seen anything targeted at the desktop market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an particular experience with any of these vendors or models but a google search for 'USB patch panel' gave me these hits, which may get you pointed in the direction you are trying to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.usbpatchpanel.com/&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.l-com.com/patch-panel-server-rack-19-usb-patch-panels-equipped-with-16-or-32-usb-a-b-couplers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1855" RevisionGUID="74c3e63f-a578-4d93-af3c-7fd9f40a1f9a" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:13:19.493" UserId="1594" Comment="added 465 characters in body" Text="I think you are probably using the wrong terms here.  You seem to want basically a USB extension, cables, but with the ends that look nice.  What you may be looking for would be something like a [**USB patch panel**][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These aren't entirely mostly used for rankmount servers.  I haven't really seen anything targeted at the desktop market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an particular experience with any of these vendors or models but a google search for 'USB patch panel' gave me these hits, which may get you pointed in the direction you are trying to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.usbpatchpanel.com/&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.l-com.com/patch-panel-server-rack-19-usb-patch-panels-equipped-with-16-or-32-usb-a-b-couplers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also be looking for something called a [**USB bulkhead adapter**][2].  These are sold as components to be put behind walk plates for high end media center type setups.  Where you would get a fairly standard wallbox of some sort and matching wall plates, then you can have all the wiring for your media center run inside the wall.  You may find adapters that would work, and then you could easily mount them in a standard electronics project box of some type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=usb%20patch%20panel&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=usb%20bulkhead" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1856" RevisionGUID="8776841a-d7f7-43d3-8b56-8b7602b5712d" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:26:01.503" UserId="164" Text="When I built my PC a year ago, I bought a really cheap case. It did not have USB 3.0 or audio on the front panel, and I regret it now. I already have new case fans for the thing, and it runs quietly, but I really do want a new case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case I want:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Black and/or red, to match the rest of the build&#xD;&#xA; - Has a case window on the side&#xD;&#xA; - Has support for 2 or more 5 and 1/2 inch drives&#xD;&#xA; - Has front facing USB 3.0 and Audio&#xD;&#xA; - Costs less than $60&#xD;&#xA; - Supports full ATX motherboard and Power Supply&#xD;&#xA; - Is large enough 12.5 inch graphics card&#xD;&#xA; - Has cable management at least somewhat in mind&#xD;&#xA; - Is wide enough to support the Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler&#xD;&#xA; - If a cover goes over the front of the case, the hinge must be on the right side&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - **Optional** If possible, I would love support for USB type C, although my motherboard only has 3.0 headers, so an adapter would be needed&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1856" RevisionGUID="8776841a-d7f7-43d3-8b56-8b7602b5712d" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:26:01.503" UserId="164" Text="A new case for an old build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1856" RevisionGUID="8776841a-d7f7-43d3-8b56-8b7602b5712d" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:26:01.503" UserId="164" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1852" RevisionGUID="05752d27-ace6-4505-b0af-5d4f80bee2c6" CreationDate="2016-01-23T00:28:11.627" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="345" RevisionGUID="570ac35c-92d1-4b8d-8b76-88c8d61b571a" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:04:20.307" UserId="128" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would recommend the [Anker 10-port USB hub][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a little bit on the expensive side, as it is normally listed for just under $80, but there is a sale on [Amazon][1] that has it listed for $33. Here are some of the features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Data Transfer to 5 Gb/s on all 7 available ports. &#xD;&#xA;- 3 Additional &quot;charging&quot; ports that provide 2.1A so they can easily charge your phones, and your tablets.&#xD;&#xA;- 4.4 stars from 1100 reviews, I've got to say that's pretty good :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![The Ultimate USB Fashion Statement][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks fairly good as well, not ugly like a lot of other multi hubs. Hope that works out for you :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;m=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&amp;tag=ianker-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399373&amp;creativeASIN=B005NGQWL2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: //i.stack.imgur.com/lYz1G.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1858" RevisionGUID="624a4ada-4cba-45d6-a72b-bf23b4247d11" CreationDate="2016-01-23T08:54:23.357" UserId="971" Text="Obviously you will have additional USB 2.0 headers on your motherboard, so I'll assume you need USB 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;A cable that is an extension and comes from the front to back is not that elegant, it'll just add clutter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, you could get a panel that plugs to your front port optical drive bay:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-4-Ports-Metal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00Q6XFAFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453538890&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+front+panel+pcie&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and a PCI-Express 3.0 card: &#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Converter-Motherboard-Connector/dp/B008IPXOWU/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453538890&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+front+panel+pcie&#xD;&#xA;You'll have a total of six ports(two on the back and four on the front).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB works as a tree-type structure so even if you have twenty ports, all bandwidth gets split to the same bus, limiting you to 5Gbps(625MB/s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can keep the ports you don't use open - it doesn't really affect speed if you don't use a port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1858" RevisionGUID="d35e9801-1cc1-4f2e-8b66-a88ebce8adb7" CreationDate="2016-01-23T12:20:24.850" UserId="971" Comment="fixed mistake, cleaned links" Text="Obviously you will have additional USB 2.0 headers on your motherboard, so I'll assume you need USB 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;A cable that is an extension and comes from the back to front is not that elegant, it'll just add clutter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, you could get a panel that plugs to your front port optical drive bay:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[4-port front panel][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and a PCI-Express 3.0 card:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[pci-express card][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll have a total of six ports(two on the back and four on the front).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB works as a tree-type structure so even if you have twenty ports, all bandwidth gets split to the same bus, limiting you to 5Gbps(625MB/s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can keep the ports you don't use open - it doesn't really affect speed if you don't use a port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-4-Ports-Metal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00Q6XFAFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453538890&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=usb%203.0%20front%20panel%20pcie&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Converter-Motherboard-Connector/dp/B008IPXOWU/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453538890&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=usb%203.0%20front%20panel%20pcie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1862" RevisionGUID="5a839d41-4249-4a94-a661-fcef838e79d9" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:09:01.537" UserId="1459" Text="What small small 4k monitors are available that are less than 24 inches?  The smaller and more affordable the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Less than (i.e. not including)** 24 inch nominal size (a 23.8 inch diagonal is a &quot;24 inch&quot; display)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 4k (3840x2160) resolution&#xD;&#xA;* No constraint on aspect ratio&#xD;&#xA;* Available to consumers now or some time in the past (could buy used)&#xD;&#xA;* Include a price if available&#xD;&#xA;* Manufacturer links please&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Astro 9.6in 4k](http://www.astrodesign.co.jp/english/product/dm-3409-a) - 3840x2160&#xD;&#xA;* [IBM T220/T221](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors) - 3840×2400 (WQUXGA), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A related question has been asked, but requested specific and larger sizes:&#xD;&#xA;http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/510/high-dpi-21-or-23-monitor-for-13-macbook-pro/514#514" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6790" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1862" RevisionGUID="5a839d41-4249-4a94-a661-fcef838e79d9" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:09:01.537" UserId="1459" Text="&quot;Small&quot; 4K LCD monitors (&lt;24 inch)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6791" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1862" RevisionGUID="5a839d41-4249-4a94-a661-fcef838e79d9" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:09:01.537" UserId="1459" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="6b05c4b5-53d7-4b0a-87c2-56eb27429cd0" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:48:43.963" UserId="1197" Text="The [HP EliteBook 820 G3 manual][1] states that either a hard drive or a SSD might be installed (page 36).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason: apparently, the SSD connector is right there where the hard drive would be placed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess, if one really wants to install 2nd SSD one could try following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- install a very slim SSD with SATA connector&#xD;&#xA;- install a SSD into the WWAN slot (possibly also needs to be slim)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both options, I need hardware recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And perhaps some details, e.g. how the WWAN slot is actually called (mini PCIe?), what modules are compatible (mSata?) and how slim a module would have to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably, the SSD module should come from Intel or be of comparable quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://h20566.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/template.PAGE/public/psi/manualsResults/?sp4ts.oid=7815289&amp;spf_p.tpst=psiContentResults&amp;spf_p.prp_psiContentResults=wsrp-navigationalState=action%3Dmanualslist%7Ccontentid%3DService-and-maintenance%7Clang%3Den&amp;javax.portlet.begCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken&amp;javax.portlet.endCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="6b05c4b5-53d7-4b0a-87c2-56eb27429cd0" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:48:43.963" UserId="1197" Text="2nd SSD in HP EliteBook 820 G3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="6b05c4b5-53d7-4b0a-87c2-56eb27429cd0" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:48:43.963" UserId="1197" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1842" RevisionGUID="8240d4e6-227e-4a22-91c3-069f8fe03a12" CreationDate="2016-01-23T21:11:36.200" UserId="155" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:128,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Zizouz212&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="3f2c11f2-d234-4d66-92f1-7171a3b39ba4" CreationDate="2016-01-24T06:50:12.467" UserId="1329" Text="This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="c1f05b16-4e08-4965-ad90-b0c598f336d5" CreationDate="2016-01-24T07:05:37.437" UserId="1329" Comment="added 438 characters in body" Text="This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is list of recent mSATA SSDs for [Europe/UK][3] with capacities starting from 120 GB. I currently have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB which works fine so far, but there may be options that suit your needs better. Once you nailed down the features you want, look if the products are available in your country and for which price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guessing by your name you probably want to use the [German version][4] for Austria and Germany of the site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;hloc=uk&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014#xf_top&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://geizhals.de/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="26d4c3e9-aeb4-4428-8f99-044647c0d060" CreationDate="2016-01-24T07:10:52.937" UserId="1329" Comment="added 438 characters in body" Text="This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is list of recent mSATA SSDs for [Europe/UK][3] with capacities starting from 120 GB. I currently have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB which works fine so far, but there may be options that suit your needs better. Once you nailed down the features you want, look if the products are available in your country and for which price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guessing by your name you probably want to use the [German version of the site][4] for Austria and Germany.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;hloc=uk&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014#xf_top&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://geizhals.de/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="85813333-4fca-4b65-a8b8-7b6c5c56bf27" CreationDate="2016-01-24T09:22:53.853" UserId="1197" Comment="clarify two modules" Text="The [HP EliteBook 820 G3 manual][1] states that either a hard drive or a SSD might be installed (page 36). And not both at the same time. Thus, as-is, one can't install two SSD modules in that machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason: apparently, the SSD connector is right there where the (SSD) SATA disk drive would be placed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess, if one really wants to install a 2nd SSD (in addition to the SSD that occupies the mSATA slot, cf. page 39) one could try following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- install a very slim SSD with SATA connector&#xD;&#xA;- install a SSD into the WWAN slot (possibly also needs to be slim)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both options, I need hardware recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And perhaps some details, e.g. how the WWAN slot is actually called (mini PCIe?), what modules are compatible (mSata?) and how slim a module would have to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably, the SSD module should come from Intel or be of comparable quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://h20566.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/template.PAGE/public/psi/manualsResults/?sp4ts.oid=7815289&amp;spf_p.tpst=psiContentResults&amp;spf_p.prp_psiContentResults=wsrp-navigationalState=action%3Dmanualslist%7Ccontentid%3DService-and-maintenance%7Clang%3Den&amp;javax.portlet.begCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken&amp;javax.portlet.endCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="c3275a10-3ff5-4ce9-b6c0-f9e0cafe57aa" CreationDate="2016-01-24T14:26:21.000" UserId="1329" Comment="added 131 characters in body" Text="Edit: After understanding that the mSATA port will block the HDD drive bay I would suggest a **Dual mSATA** HDD adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is list of recent mSATA SSDs for [Europe/UK][3] with capacities starting from 120 GB. I currently have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB which works fine so far, but there may be options that suit your needs better. Once you nailed down the features you want, look if the products are available in your country and for which price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guessing by your name you probably want to use the [German version of the site][4] for Austria and Germany.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;hloc=uk&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014#xf_top&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://geizhals.de/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1868" RevisionGUID="467bd423-7060-4c27-9310-a15e920eb57d" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:14:49.417" UserId="1369" Text="Your price criteria is quite demanding (what you're looking for tends to be 1800+ Euro), but the **short quick answer** would be http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/notebooks/defianceII-15/  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:  &#xD;&#xA;*6th Gen Intel i7 Quad Core 8 Thread 6700HQ, has Vt-x and VT-d  &#xD;&#xA;GeForce GTX 965M 2GB Graphics Card     &#xD;&#xA;32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4 Memory installed-supports 64GB  &#xD;&#xA;3 year standard warranty*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Matte Full HD IPS  &#xD;&#xA;Backlit Keyboard (very very nice)  &#xD;&#xA;4 x USB 3.0  &#xD;&#xA;HDMI Output Connection &amp; Mini Display Port  &#xD;&#xA;Intel AC8260 (867Mbps) M.2 Wireless and Bluetooth  &#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint Scanner  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;with a 500GB HDD (36 Euro) and Windows 10 (106 Euro) and delivery to EU (26 Euro-they do deliver elsewhere) comes to a total of ***1334 Euro***. Using their configurator you could remove Windows 10 for a Linux distro and replace the HDD with a 240GB SSD for ***1284 Euro.*** If you need Windows you could install that later as a host OS or a VM. At the same time It's a very good graphics card and to utilize it fully with Direct X (to play some games too), maybe buy a standalone Windows license. As opposed to an OEM Windows license, which only allows you to use Windows on *that* machine (hard install or VM), you can easily move Windows to any another machine (physical or VM). Highly recommended to buy the HDD caddy too.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you know you need 32GB this is the system I would recommend**, as it exceeds both your required (2133 MHz DDR4 RAM, I assume you would have been happy with 1600MHz DDR3L) and not required (gaming graphics) specs. It'll easily destroy any common VM setup. Should handle any personal cloud computing stuff, obviously depends on the stuff. I'd leave server stuff to servers, again depending on end use, a small server shouldn't be too much of a problem. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1868" RevisionGUID="ae93d39e-6b55-448e-99e8-cc4335167a43" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:24:44.413" UserId="1369" Comment="added 1090 characters in body" Text="Your price criteria is quite demanding (what you're looking for tends to be 1800+ Euro), but the **short quick answer** would be http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/notebooks/defianceII-15/  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:  &#xD;&#xA;*6th Gen Intel i7 Quad Core 8 Thread 6700HQ, has Vt-x and VT-d  &#xD;&#xA;GeForce GTX 965M 2GB Graphics Card     &#xD;&#xA;32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4 Memory installed-supports 64GB  &#xD;&#xA;3 year standard warranty*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Matte Full HD IPS  &#xD;&#xA;Backlit Keyboard (very very nice)  &#xD;&#xA;4 x USB 3.0  &#xD;&#xA;HDMI Output Connection &amp; Mini Display Port  &#xD;&#xA;Intel AC8260 (867Mbps) M.2 Wireless and Bluetooth  &#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint Scanner  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;with a 500GB HDD (36 Euro) and Windows 10 (106 Euro) and delivery to EU (26 Euro-they do deliver elsewhere) comes to a total of ***1334 Euro***. Using their configurator you could remove Windows 10 for a Linux distro and replace the HDD with a 240GB SSD for ***1284 Euro.*** If you need Windows you could install that later as a host OS or a VM. At the same time It's a very good graphics card and to utilize it fully with Direct X (to play some games too), maybe buy a standalone Windows license. As opposed to an OEM Windows license, which only allows you to use Windows on *that* machine (hard install or VM), you can easily move Windows to any another machine (physical or VM). Highly recommended to buy the HDD caddy too.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you know you need 32GB this is the system I would recommend**, as it exceeds both your required (2133 MHz DDR4 RAM, I assume you would have been happy with 1600MHz DDR3L) and not required (gaming graphics) specs. It'll easily destroy any common VM setup. Should handle any personal cloud computing stuff, obviously depends on the stuff. I'd leave server stuff to servers, again depending on end use, a small server shouldn't be too much of a problem.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Another (possibly cheaper) Option:**  &#xD;&#xA;You would want an i7 with virtualization support i.e VT-x (either 5th or 6th Gen) but are you sure you *really need 32GB*? You could get a dual core, four threaded i7 machine with 8-16GB with at least 2 RAM slots and pretty good graphics for 700-1000 Euro. 16GB is a lot of memory for running VMs. For example you could buy a 16GB machine easily for under 1000 Euro and try it. If you actually do need more RAM you could upgrade and you wouldn't necessarily be limited by 2 RAM slots (4 slots is obviously preferable). SODIMM RAM on laptops is usually limited to 8GB due to specification, however a clever company called [Intelligent Memory](http://www.intelligentmemory.com/dram-modules/ddr3-so-dimm/#collapseA1) has managed to stack a massive 16GB DDR3 on a single stick! So even with only 2 RAM slots you can reach 32GB.You can get them at [amazon.de](http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=M&amp;url=me=A3R9S9CHC6ARGB&amp;field-keywords) all you need is any 5th (Intelligent Memory) or 6th (PACCOM) Intel CPU, which you'll already have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="f606ecb6-8340-4ccf-9b6e-3ae9592145e6" CreationDate="2016-01-25T10:26:59.037" UserId="1329" Comment="add image for better visualization or the problem, composed in gimp" Text="The [HP EliteBook 820 G3 manual][1] states that either a hard drive or a SSD might be installed (page 36). And not both at the same time. Thus, as-is, one can't install two SSD modules in that machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason: apparently, the SSD connector is right there where the (SSD) SATA disk drive would be placed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess, if one really wants to install a 2nd SSD (in addition to the SSD that occupies the mSATA slot, cf. page 39) one could try following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- install a very slim SSD with SATA connector&#xD;&#xA;- install a SSD into the WWAN slot (possibly also needs to be slim)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For both options, I need hardware recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And perhaps some details, e.g. how the WWAN slot is actually called (mini PCIe?), what modules are compatible (mSata?) and how slim a module would have to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably, the SSD module should come from Intel or be of comparable quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a combination of the drawings from page 36 and 39 of the manual showing the same drive bay for better visualization of the problem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![image showing overlapping msata port and HDD drive bay][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://h20566.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/template.PAGE/public/psi/manualsResults/?sp4ts.oid=7815289&amp;spf_p.tpst=psiContentResults&amp;spf_p.prp_psiContentResults=wsrp-navigationalState=action%3Dmanualslist%7Ccontentid%3DService-and-maintenance%7Clang%3Den&amp;javax.portlet.begCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken&amp;javax.portlet.endCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/folZk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="f606ecb6-8340-4ccf-9b6e-3ae9592145e6" CreationDate="2016-01-25T10:26:59.037" Comment="Proposed by 1329 approved by 54, 8 edit id of 373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="ada007f9-4d3c-493d-8994-486a3eee195b" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:55:52.213" UserId="692" Text="&gt;**CPU info**&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&gt;Name: *Intel Pentium G2030*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Code Name: *Ivy Bridge*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Generation: *3rd*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Core frequency: *~3GHz*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Cores, Threads: *2, 2*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Max TDP: *55W*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics: *Intel HD Graphics*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know very well it's a low-end CPU. I can't play high graphics games. Actually I can, but I need to minimize the graphics settings. These are the settings I usually set:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Resolution: *960x720(4:3) or 1024x576(16:9), [Native Resolution: 1920x1080]*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;FPS: *30*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Refresh Rate: *60*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Fullscreen: *ON*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;VSync: *OFF*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Texture Quality: *MEDIUM*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;HDR Filter: *OFF*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Shadow Quality: *LOW (if &quot;OFF&quot; isn't in the option)*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Motion Blur: *OFF*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Glare Level: *OFF*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Depth of Field: *OFF*&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;FXAA: *ON*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, I will turn it off or select &quot;low&quot; if there are more options. My motherboard is made for Intel 3rd generation core i7/i5/i3/pentium/celeron processors. I would like to have suggestions about which processors I should buy without over the budget. I'm a completely idiot to hardwares btw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Budget: $200** (max. $250)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to stick with my current [motherboard](http://www.ecs.com.tw/website2008/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?DetailID=1366&amp;CategoryID=1&amp;DetailName=Feature&amp;MenuID=103&amp;LanID=0), and I want the best processor for gaming that I can effort.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6829" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="ada007f9-4d3c-493d-8994-486a3eee195b" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:55:52.213" UserId="692" Text="Processor for gaming under $250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="ada007f9-4d3c-493d-8994-486a3eee195b" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:55:52.213" UserId="692" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1872" RevisionGUID="0ab3d30d-1b5d-481b-9285-58bef379b914" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:00:53.213" UserId="219" Text="You want a GPU, not a CPU for gaming. Is there a reason you need to buy a new CPU? If not, spend that $200-$250 on a GPU instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You want something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150761" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6832" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1872" RevisionGUID="ff1bb731-f373-42d0-81dc-835fa7a07ac8" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:06:09.803" UserId="219" Comment="added 118 characters in body" Text="You want a GPU, not a CPU for gaming. Is there a reason you need to buy a new CPU? If not, spend that $200-$250 on a GPU instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You want something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150761&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead of dealing with piss-poor low graphics, you'll be able to turn up most settings to maximum for many games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Integrated Graphics are suitable for desktop environments (very low graphics processing requirements) or video rendering (for software like OpenBroadcaster.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="16836ecf-0c9f-4386-b681-694f678649b6" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:22:59.540" UserId="219" Comment="fixed tags, user confused abotu CPU vs GPU" Text="Graphics Processor for gaming under $250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="16836ecf-0c9f-4386-b681-694f678649b6" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:22:59.540" UserId="219" Comment="fixed tags, user confused abotu CPU vs GPU" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1871" RevisionGUID="16836ecf-0c9f-4386-b681-694f678649b6" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:22:59.540" Comment="Proposed by 219 approved by 214 edit id of 374" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="104" RevisionGUID="c6331eeb-b12f-465a-8583-a4a764f32fcd" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:41:05.877" UserId="198" Comment="Spelling of 'were' fixed" Text="In my experience (new mechanical user):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Advantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Key Rollover - Mechanical keyboards should support NKRO (infinite simultaneous key presses) over PS/2 and 6KRO (6 simultaneous key presses not including 4 modifiers like CTRL etc., so 10 simultaneous) over USB*. Being able to press this many keys means the only limit to your typing speed is your fingers, not the keyboard. &#xD;&#xA; - Repair/Customisation - Keycaps are easy to remove so you can move them around (mine is Colemak. I've also heard good things about Workman). Also this means replacing keys and cleaning are a lot easier than on many non-mechanicals.&#xD;&#xA; - Build quality - As a premium product the build quality and reliability is very high. As an example the standard [Cherry MX switches][1] can withstand 50 million key presses compared to 5-10 from rubber dome keys.&#xD;&#xA; - Feel - There is something nice about the key presses of a mechanical keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Specifically a limitation of the USB protocol. This may be manufacturer specific but I'm not sure. If any knows comment below!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Aesthetics**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For many people the aesthetics are important. If you spend a lot of money on something you often want it too look good. With my keyboard free custom keycaps and printing were included so mine looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![We do what we must because we can][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Disadvantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Cost is significantly higher than a normal keyboard (mine was $200 approx).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cherrycorp.com/product/mx-series/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uH4Bb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Spelling!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="b9d947f4-48a2-4108-b190-f2b9bd530d02" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:57:59.560" UserId="916" Text="I have 6x320GB HDD and I was considering to create a RAID 5 system (it's for storage only).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use ubuntu 14.04 and I want to ask what RAID controller card allows for 4 (or more) ports without requiring too much configuration under Linux-Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As said, the goal would be to be able to use all 6 drives in a RAID 5 system.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="b9d947f4-48a2-4108-b190-f2b9bd530d02" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:57:59.560" UserId="916" Text="Raid 5 controller card: any raccomandation without breaking my wallet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6842" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="b9d947f4-48a2-4108-b190-f2b9bd530d02" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:57:59.560" UserId="916" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="18482eaa-c341-477c-8054-d539aa01b01c" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:10:30.380" UserId="155" Comment="improved title" Text="I have 6x320GB HDD and I was considering to create a RAID 5 system (it's for storage only).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Ubuntu 14.04 and I want to ask what RAID controller card allows for 4 (or more) ports without requiring too much configuration under Linux-Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As said, the goal would be to be able to use all 6 drives in a RAID 5 system.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="18482eaa-c341-477c-8054-d539aa01b01c" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:10:30.380" UserId="155" Comment="improved title" Text="Low-cost RAID 5 Linux controller card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1874" RevisionGUID="3b09bba7-eca0-4e9a-8a7f-18fec5c19e04" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:41:04.110" UserId="1622" Text="I need to produce C++ code binaries to be used on a cluster with Xeon E5 2600 v3 dual-socket nodes. For confidentiality reasons the binaries can only be compiled locally so we have to build a smaller workstation to support compiling and binary testing. For cost reasons it's preferable to build a single-socket machine and use the absolute cheapest CPU that can produce compatible binaries. I thought of Xeon E3 v3 CPUs since the code uses MPI and no OpenMP so there would not be issues with thread and rank pinning. Can other Intel CPUs be used as well? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone even suggested doing it on a virtual machine but I have reservations about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1874" RevisionGUID="3b09bba7-eca0-4e9a-8a7f-18fec5c19e04" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:41:04.110" UserId="1622" Text="What cheaper CPU do you suggest for compiling C++ code binaries for Xeon E5 2600 v3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1874" RevisionGUID="3b09bba7-eca0-4e9a-8a7f-18fec5c19e04" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:41:04.110" UserId="1622" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1875" RevisionGUID="f4c98e8a-8f6c-42bb-8a04-3f2cb4f51556" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:34:25.460" UserId="177" Text="I'm building a **slim** PC around a mini ITX motherboard, which should pack enough CUDA power with a low price. I came into the conclusion that GTX 750 Ti is a good choice (OK performance, low price, low heat generation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The slimness I plan to achieve using a 90 degree PCI-e riser card (similar to http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-16x-Riser-Card-90-degree-Right-angle-4cm-Adapter-Card-2U-/170914230015)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the problem is that I don't know if the GPU will fit a specific motherboard with a specific CPU cooler and if the RAM modules will interfere. Is the 750 Ti a reasonable choice and is there a difference between different manufacturers? Or should I look into some slimmer options? I am building a custom case, so PSU and SSD can be placed anywhere, even outside the motherboard's area." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1875" RevisionGUID="f4c98e8a-8f6c-42bb-8a04-3f2cb4f51556" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:34:25.460" UserId="177" Text="Slimmest possible mini itx setup with a decent GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1875" RevisionGUID="f4c98e8a-8f6c-42bb-8a04-3f2cb4f51556" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:34:25.460" UserId="177" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="fc9c99e2-81aa-41fc-be85-9da1a320c16f" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:03:55.837" UserId="1625" Text="I hate large smartphones. Currently, I use the iPhone 4S, but it's starting to show its age, having become more and more unusable with recent iOS updates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for an Android phone with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* High build quality (metal + glass)&#xD;&#xA;* **At most** as large as the iPhone 4S (115.2 mm x 58.6 mm x 9.3 mm), preferably even smaller, especially thinner&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having *vanilla* Google Android on it rather than some botched manufacturer version with manufacturer apps would be a nice bonus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="fc9c99e2-81aa-41fc-be85-9da1a320c16f" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:03:55.837" UserId="1625" Text="Small, high quality Android phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="fc9c99e2-81aa-41fc-be85-9da1a320c16f" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:03:55.837" UserId="1625" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1879" RevisionGUID="183edb45-469c-460c-a8d3-3a0a922a5c8c" CreationDate="2016-01-26T12:59:35.533" UserId="1628" Text="I find that on my MacBook, I am much less likely to hit wrong keys than on any Windows PC I have ever used. The number pad and especially num lock are crimes against humanity, comparable to Francisco Solano López; lack of them has to help. This in turn means that the MacBook has fewer keys, and the space between them is greater. That has to help, too. Beyond that, I'm not sure what the causes are. Any suggestions, or, for that matter, insight? The keyboard has to be built into the computer, not an add-on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1879" RevisionGUID="183edb45-469c-460c-a8d3-3a0a922a5c8c" CreationDate="2016-01-26T12:59:35.533" UserId="1628" Text="Windows PC laptop with mac-like keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1879" RevisionGUID="183edb45-469c-460c-a8d3-3a0a922a5c8c" CreationDate="2016-01-26T12:59:35.533" UserId="1628" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="4bd61d51-7f5d-406a-bdc9-f73a629fc51f" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:10:24.020" UserId="1364" Text="***C'mon you can't have an 3.5 In Android phone***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the trend being phones with large and better displays manufactures care less about the compactness of a phone. It is quite difficult to find phones with a smaller display. As of now there are no **NEW/LATEST** stock android phones but there are few other options if you are ready to sacrifice few aspects of the phone you want to own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1 :The Moto G Generation 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compact and small at 4.7In and has an awesome display. It is very good to hold and single-handed operations are awesome and the sweetest part is that it runs **Stock Android** out of the box and got updates for android 5.1.1. I personally prefer the latest version 6.0.1(*Google's sweetest android yet*  :  ***Marshmellow)***.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;***Sacrifice***:- I'd say it's the perfect bang for the buck you get for what you pay. The battery is average it's not great nor is it bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**2 :The J series by Samsung**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the J2 as it is the smallest of the J series at 4.7 In with pretty decent specs with an awesome display(AMOLED).  &#xD;&#xA;***Sacrifice***&#xD;&#xA;:- It is not high-end and runs Touch Wiz which is according to me is not good and hogs your RAM a bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IF**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;you want to forget the fact that you want an Android phone then i'd suggest you go for the new iphone 6s (c'mon why did you become an android fanboy in the first place) or still want to have an android phone by sacrifising compactness then go for the moto turbo(1 or 2)/ x or samsung flagships s6, note5( you can always flash them to stock android or use custom launchers). do check out one plus one/two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you find the answer to loong or contained too much info critisiscm is encouraged.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="91edafad-d4d9-4e90-b56b-1cc66d0ec079" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:34:29.387" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 243 characters in body" Text="**C'mon, you can't have an 3.5 inch Android phone.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the trend is toward phones with large and better displays. Manufacturers care less about the compactness of the phone. It is quite difficult to find phones with a smaller display. As of now there are no new stock Android phones, but there are few other options if you are ready to sacrifice few aspects of the phone you want to own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1: The Moto G Generation 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compact and small at 4.7in and has an awesome display. It is very comfortable to hold and single-handed operation is awesome. The best part is that it runs **stock Android** out of the box and got updates for Android 5.1.1. I personally prefer the latest version, 6.0.1 Marshmallow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**:- I'd say it's the perfect bang for the buck you get for what you pay. The battery is average; it's not great nor is it bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2: The J series by Samsung**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the J2 as it is the smallest of the J series at 4.7in with pretty decent specs and an awesome AMOLED display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**: It is not high-end and runs Touch Wiz which is, according to me, not good and uses too much RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to forget the fact that you want an Android phone, then I'd suggest you go for the new iPhone 6S. If you still want to have an Android phone, by sacrificing compactness you can go for the Moto Turbo (1 or 2) or the Samsung flagship S6, Note 5 (you can always flash them to stock Android or use custom launchers)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1875" RevisionGUID="a85bf20e-63d6-44bd-9768-471e2ffbc127" CreationDate="2016-01-26T18:06:50.060" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="Slimmest possible mini-ITX setup with a decent GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1875" RevisionGUID="a85bf20e-63d6-44bd-9768-471e2ffbc127" CreationDate="2016-01-26T18:06:50.060" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1879" RevisionGUID="1eb5043e-077b-4f0d-b501-4fc762462e6e" CreationDate="2016-01-26T18:10:45.887" UserId="1628" Comment="added info about other requirements in response to comment" Text="I find that on my MacBook, I am much less likely to hit wrong keys than on any Windows PC I have ever used. The number pad and especially num lock are crimes against humanity, comparable to Francisco Solano López; lack of them has to help. This in turn means that the MacBook has fewer keys, and the space between them is greater. That has to help, too. Beyond that, I'm not sure what the causes are. Any suggestions, or, for that matter, insight? The keyboard has to be built into the computer, not an add-on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I'm a developer. I would expect to spend 1-2K. 16GB RAM is a very good thing. I would hope to use it heavily for 4 years or so. I would want to be able to open up (say) two VS solutions, SSMS, Notepad, SourceTree, Task Manager, Command prompt and two browsers without seriuosly degrading performance. A big screen is a very good thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1881" RevisionGUID="9676eddc-e30e-476f-ae0e-8125098ff5cc" CreationDate="2016-01-26T19:14:56.817" UserId="1631" Text="I always keep my phone in my room and go to watch TV so I end up missing calls. I don't want to keep the phone with me all times and still get some sort of notification about a call or message I am getting while being anywhere else in the house. Is there any device that my phone can pair with using Bluetooth or WiFi such that that phone is in my room while the device is in the TV room and will ring if I get a call and I can probably attend the call on that device itself with optional features like number display, making calls, contacts, messages, 3.5 mm port, etc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1881" RevisionGUID="9676eddc-e30e-476f-ae0e-8125098ff5cc" CreationDate="2016-01-26T19:14:56.817" UserId="1631" Text="Mobile phone in room missing calls" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1881" RevisionGUID="9676eddc-e30e-476f-ae0e-8125098ff5cc" CreationDate="2016-01-26T19:14:56.817" UserId="1631" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="d1a93a2a-f02f-4847-a82d-f1bbaf2231d3" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:16:47.573" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="3a4d9911-b8b3-4105-a7ab-1e28da0ff87b" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:31:50.223" UserId="1633" Text="I just built a new gaming computer.  It's a skylake build with the i7 6700k, Asus Maximus viii hero, and some g.skill ram (32gb).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm about to buy a new video card, and I've been looking over the options for a couple of weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that I want to spend between $650 and $700 and get a 980ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This turned out to be a pretty large point of contention in the forums I've been looking through, so I figured I'd check here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the benchmarks I've looked at, I've seen pretty good comparisons [here](http://techreport.com/review/28685/geforce-gtx-980-ti-cards-compared/5) and [here](http://techreport.com/review/28685/geforce-gtx-980-ti-cards-compared/5) between the  &#xD;&#xA;**Asus Strix OC**, **Gigabyte G1 Gaming**, **MSI Gaming 6G**, **EVGA SC**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've narrowed it down to the **Asus Strix OC**, **MSI Gaming 6G**, and adding in the **Gigabyte Xtreme**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on different reviews, I decided on the Strix at one point, but I keep seeing people complain about their heatsink not touching their processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a couple of bad experiences with Gigabyte products, so the xtreme makes me a little nervous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the MSI Gaming clashes terribly with my mobo/case (also, it's the least powerful of the three cards chosen).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice on how to decide?  I know they are all amazing cards, and there probably isn't a wrong choice, but this is my first REAL gaming rig, and don't want any regrets.  I'm loving the cpu/mobo so far, and really want to stay happy.  Feel free to throw any other card in that price range at me, and I'll look into it.  Any advice is welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Side Note**&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;This really shouldn't be a side note, but I'll be using this computer for general use.  I will do some amount of game development on it, but not much, and some general programming, but the video card is obviously so I can get max settings on any game I want for a while." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6881" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="3a4d9911-b8b3-4105-a7ab-1e28da0ff87b" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:31:50.223" UserId="1633" Text="Selecting the right 980ti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="3a4d9911-b8b3-4105-a7ab-1e28da0ff87b" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:31:50.223" UserId="1633" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1886" RevisionGUID="273d6a26-cafd-45b7-9061-2b5c4e53fc49" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:45:11.457" UserId="1634" Text="The Pi Zero makes this easy and cheap. Set up the Pi and follow this tutorial: https://learn.adafruit.com/turning-your-raspberry-pi-zero-into-a-usb-gadget/ethernet-gadget. I found that ssh is a good way to connect to the pi to perform these instructions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you are done, plug a micro usb cable into the USB data port on the pi and plug the other end into your computer. You should be able to use `ssh pi@raspberrypi.local` to connect to the pi without a wifi dongle. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="7cbbdd96-efec-4485-b562-0f59807b23d3" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:15:49.367" UserId="1633" Comment="added 421 characters in body; edited title" Text="I just built a new gaming computer.  It's a skylake build with the i7 6700k, Asus Maximus viii hero, and some g.skill ram (32gb).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm about to buy a new video card, and I've been looking over the options for a couple of weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that I want to spend between $650 and $700 and get a 980ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This turned out to be a pretty large point of contention in the forums I've been looking through, so I figured I'd check here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the benchmarks I've looked at, I've seen pretty good comparisons [here](http://techreport.com/review/28685/geforce-gtx-980-ti-cards-compared/5) and [here](http://techreport.com/review/28685/geforce-gtx-980-ti-cards-compared/5) between the  &#xD;&#xA;**Asus Strix OC**, **Gigabyte G1 Gaming**, **MSI Gaming 6G**, **EVGA SC**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've narrowed it down to the **Asus Strix OC**, **MSI Gaming 6G**, and adding in the **Gigabyte Xtreme**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on different reviews, I decided on the Strix at one point, but I keep seeing people complain about their heatsink not touching their processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a couple of bad experiences with Gigabyte products, so the xtreme makes me a little nervous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the MSI Gaming clashes terribly with my mobo/case (also, it's the least powerful of the three cards chosen).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice on how to decide?  I know they are all amazing cards, and there probably isn't a wrong choice, but this is my first REAL gaming rig, and don't want any regrets.  I'm loving the cpu/mobo so far, and really want to stay happy.  Feel free to throw any other card in that price range at me, and I'll look into it.  Any advice is welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Side Note**&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;This really shouldn't be a side note, but I'll be using this computer for general use.  I will do some amount of game development on it, but not much, and some general programming, but the video card is obviously so I can get max settings on any game I want for a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit1**&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make this less opinion based, I've changed the actual question. I know I want the Strix because of how fantastic its performance in benchmarks is, but I'm worried about the past problems with their heatsink.  Does anyone know if Asus has fixed the problem with the Strix cards?  If no one knows, I think I'd rather go with the Gigabyte Xtreme, to avoid having to send a card back." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="7cbbdd96-efec-4485-b562-0f59807b23d3" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:15:49.367" UserId="1633" Comment="added 421 characters in body; edited title" Text="Has Asus fixed the heat sink problem with the Strix 980ti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1887" RevisionGUID="933da2f4-39eb-4529-88c8-e4965a407809" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:10:22.093" UserId="199" Text="Dell recently came out with the [Latitude E7270 series][1] which seems ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Small and lightweight, 14&quot; or smaller, no more than 2224 grams&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;12,5&quot; display, starts at 1260 grams.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Linux support (I don't mind if it comes with Windows but every hardware component should work well under Linux too.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They come with Windows 7/10 but we have good experience running Linux on former dell Latitude models, so it's probably fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 32GB RAM support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have 6th generation Intel Core processor which supports 32 GB of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can handle three external displays (Currently I have three displays, all of them has DVI input and VGA too, but I'd prefer the digital one. Using DisplayPort-&gt;DVI and/or HDMI-&gt;DVI conversion cables are also fine for me.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6th generation Intel Core CPUs also support that and our Dell docking stations have three display outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Faster than my current Intel Core i5-3230M CPU @ 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can come with Intel Core i7-6600U which seems faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Matte display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anti Glare LCD seems fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Compatible with our Dell E-Port Replicators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's compatible. The packaged [Dell Docking Spacer for E7x40][2] is also handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Budget: ~$2500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price on dell.com is between $1000-$2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/latitude-e7270-ultrabook/pd&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&amp;cs=ukbsdt1&amp;sku=452-BBID" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1888" RevisionGUID="b2eadb69-d4f0-4d37-90ea-0485f488e306" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:26:33.570" UserId="199" Text="I did some research and found that most power banks (and laptop batteries) use 18650 Li-Ion batteries (cells).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So finally I bought a 18650 battery case (search for &quot;18650 power bank case&quot;) which I'm using with a 18650 cell from a disassembled old laptop battery. Currently this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/biocT.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product link and image source: [2600mAh 5V 1A USB Power Bank Case Charger DIY Box For iPhone][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Small enough to mount on a bicycle helmet&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Its shape fits well to bicycle helmets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not perfect, but it seems to be the best option currently.&#xD;&#xA;Mine weights 67 grams (including battery). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Possible/easy to mount on a helmet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With self-adhesive velcro it works fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; At least 1000mAh capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18650 batteries usually have 2600+mAh capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; No need to power on, always on (I don't want two handle two power buttons, the one on the camera is enough)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not tested it thoughtfully but mine does not have any power button and seems fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Easy to mount/unmount (unmount for shorter rides, or using more than one for longer rides)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Velcro solves that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/biocT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.banggood.com/2600mAh-5V-1A-USB-Power-Bank-Case-Charger-DIY-Box-For-iPhone-p-969623.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1889" RevisionGUID="0e1e3695-d4a4-441b-ac18-92bfd2a707f3" CreationDate="2016-01-27T06:50:06.067" UserId="1366" Text="It is hard to find case which meets all your requirements in this budget but I have two recommendations under $70:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-03][1] - $70 on newegg.com. It is black with red lighted fan in front panel and meets all your requirements without USB type C support. This case has quite good cable managment and good airflow.&#xD;&#xA; - [Thermaltake Commander G41][2] - $65 + shipping on newegg.com. It also meets all your requirements without USB type C support. It has nice HDD and 5.25 mounting system and good amount of space for cable managment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139040&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1890" RevisionGUID="9ee052fd-0365-47f5-bc1e-b5ab177432a4" CreationDate="2016-01-27T08:43:28.790" UserId="1190" Text="I am looking for some hardware that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- analyzes the quality of I²C signals&#xD;&#xA; - voltage&#xD;&#xA; - data signal quality (quality of the rectangle)&#xD;&#xA; - clock signal quality (quality of the rectangle)&#xD;&#xA; - potentially other things as defined by I²C (I'm not too familiar yet)&#xD;&#xA;- shows the data transmitted on the I²C bus&#xD;&#xA; - bus monitor (just the hex values)&#xD;&#xA; - data extractor (interpret the hex values, e.g. separate address from data)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This could be 2 separate tools or an all-in-one tool. For both, it would be great if there's a connection to the PC (e.g. via USB) so that I can easily generate test report documents, store the data or forward to someone else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no budget restriction at the moment, since I have to request the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Power users/moderators: are there better tags? I could not find [tag:I2C], [tag:bus-monitor], [tag:protocol-analyzer], [tag:sniffer] - but I still think this question is [on topic](http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware) since it is an electronic item, connects to a PC and can perform meaningful tasks.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1890" RevisionGUID="9ee052fd-0365-47f5-bc1e-b5ab177432a4" CreationDate="2016-01-27T08:43:28.790" UserId="1190" Text="I2C Bus Analyzer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1890" RevisionGUID="9ee052fd-0365-47f5-bc1e-b5ab177432a4" CreationDate="2016-01-27T08:43:28.790" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1890" RevisionGUID="4dc1c112-f234-4c7d-8d76-1c984c552695" CreationDate="2016-01-27T11:35:19.910" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1891" RevisionGUID="57e308c2-4e95-4f84-bf8b-1d892e533417" CreationDate="2016-01-27T12:08:47.300" UserId="177" Text="The answer to my own question is Silverstone RVZ01 with only 10.5 cm height.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They include a custom 90 degree riser inside the case, which should fit most GPUs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="2e3dad40-adda-43ba-b468-3a278c082320" CreationDate="2016-01-27T13:24:05.270" UserId="1640" Text="What is the best value AMD chip under $70 for performance and value for money?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="2e3dad40-adda-43ba-b468-3a278c082320" CreationDate="2016-01-27T13:24:05.270" UserId="1640" Text="Best AMD Chip under $70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="2e3dad40-adda-43ba-b468-3a278c082320" CreationDate="2016-01-27T13:24:05.270" UserId="1640" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1894" RevisionGUID="11dfbf1b-5a53-45fc-8ce5-3051ac9b3a5e" CreationDate="2016-01-27T13:53:16.470" UserId="164" Text="The best available CPU at ~70$ U.S. is the AMD Athlon X4 860K. It is an FM2+ socket Kaveri chip with for compute cores. It is clocked at 3.7 Gigahertz stock, though generally has very good overclocking potential, if interested, and also happens to be the CPU that powers my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pretty much any Intel CPU beats it out in single core performance at stock, but when overclocked, it approaches i3 performance per core and has an extra 2 cores to work with. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AMD FX-6300 is also another chip you might want to look into. It has 6 cores, each slightly inferior to the X4 860K's. However, it costs $90 and is on a dying CPU socket, the AM3+, which will be totally replaced by Zen later this year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to wait for the new Zen AMD CPUs to come out, that is a good idea too, as they are supposed to actually compete with Intel i5 and i7 processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="2d950498-858a-4eb5-a423-eb46fe45cb3f" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:11:41.963" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6908" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1896" RevisionGUID="75e23aba-cab2-4b54-94ec-bb774bb2b189" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:31:20.070" UserId="1641" Text="English is not my native language, so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good Day.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I have a Samsung Galaxy Y, which is an older smartphone with Android 2,3 gingerbread. Due to some battery issues I need to buy a new phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this moment I have two option,so my predicament is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buying a new **NEW Xiami RedMi 2 Pro** phone with a company (Movistar) has warranty and all other benefits (case, earphones, promotional prize, property card). Prize: 149 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buying an **USED Galaxy S4** make a better price and better specs than the Xiaomi. Prize: 115 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even when the specs on the S4 are better than Xiaomi, still have some doubts. Because the S4 has been a 2013 phone and has been used since September 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on: Specs vs price vs time vs (all other things that could matter), I ask you guys to make a comparison between the phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn't intendent to create a debate, is more to help me to make a decision. Any help would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1896" RevisionGUID="75e23aba-cab2-4b54-94ec-bb774bb2b189" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:31:20.070" UserId="1641" Text="Comparison between Xiaomi RedMi 2 and Samsung Galaxy S4 I9500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6910" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1896" RevisionGUID="75e23aba-cab2-4b54-94ec-bb774bb2b189" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:31:20.070" UserId="1641" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1897" RevisionGUID="4bb309c1-583a-447c-9850-7c75a1a9062f" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:46:09.280" UserId="1364" Text="I wouldn't recommend going for a 24 in 4k as it is in't recommended for the eye &#xD;&#xA;check out the Dell P2415Q[1] if you don't change your mind and go for a 24 in monitor. It is priced at around 425 dollars for which you can get good TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjopKHvnsrKAhWIC44KHfyNAKAQFggcMAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Faccessories.us.dell.com%2Fsna%2Fproductdetail.aspx%3Fc%3Dus%26cs%3D04%26l%3Den%26sku%3D860-BBFF&amp;usg=AFQjCNGMUOPIv0HVsFfFAqS2PAAQMc7X5Q&amp;sig2=vYNMv4wqXrv2a3QZze0ZlA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1896" RevisionGUID="b3150ffe-87ee-4cc2-b062-8df4a4abbd11" CreationDate="2016-01-27T16:36:06.183" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed grammar." Text="I have a Samsung Galaxy Y, which is an older smartphone with Android 2,3 gingerbread. Due to some battery issues, I need to buy a new phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this moment I have two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy a new **NEW Xiami RedMi 2 Pro** phone which has a warranty and all other benefits (case, earphones, promotional price, property card). Price: 149 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy a **USED Galaxy S4** which has a better price and better specs than the Xiaomi. Price: 115 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though the specs on the S4 are better than Xiaomi, I still have some doubts. The S4 was released in 2013 and has been used since September 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn't intended to create a debate, is more to help me to make a decision. Any help would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6914" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1897" RevisionGUID="68d038af-49c3-42b7-9e4f-314068f8f616" CreationDate="2016-01-27T16:38:52.153" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed hyperlink." Text="I wouldn't recommend going for a 24 in 4k as it isn't recommended for the eye.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Check out the [Dell P2415Q][1] if you don't change your mind and go for a 24 in monitor. It is priced at around 425 dollars for which you can get good TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjopKHvnsrKAhWIC44KHfyNAKAQFggcMAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Faccessories.us.dell.com%2Fsna%2Fproductdetail.aspx%3Fc%3Dus%26cs%3D04%26l%3Den%26sku%3D860-BBFF&amp;usg=AFQjCNGMUOPIv0HVsFfFAqS2PAAQMc7X5Q&amp;sig2=vYNMv4wqXrv2a3QZze0ZlA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1896" RevisionGUID="3dc85391-d9fb-4aa8-ac02-3af1d7f86531" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:18:45.267" UserId="1641" Comment="Fixing Grammar." Text="I have a Samsung Galaxy Y, which is an older smartphone with Android 2,3 gingerbread. Due to some battery issues, I need to buy a new phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this moment I have two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy a **NEW Xiami RedMi 2 Pro** phone which has a warranty and all other benefits (case, earphones, promotional price, property card). Price: 149 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy a **USED Galaxy S4** which has a better price and better specs than the Xiaomi. Price: 115 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though the specs on the S4 are better than Xiaomi, I still have some doubts. The S4 was released in 2013 and has been used since September 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn't intended to create a debate, is more to help me to make a decision. Any help would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="2280fff1-2972-4b89-bb1f-046203ed71c6" CreationDate="2016-01-27T21:39:11.690" UserId="241" Comment="Update requirements based on comments" Text="I have 6x320GB HDD and I was considering to create a RAID 5 system (it's for storage only).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Ubuntu 14.04 and I want to ask what RAID controller card allows for 6 (or more) ports without requiring too much configuration under Linux-Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As said, the goal would be to be able to use all 6 drives in a RAID 5 system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a PCI, PCI-X, or PCIe card with hardware RAID 5 support and SATA or SAS connectors.  My overall budget is around $100." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1873" RevisionGUID="50d3353d-7621-4e21-b35a-f72d10ef3f8b" CreationDate="2016-01-28T02:08:47.090" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="6941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1901" RevisionGUID="bb575752-0c7c-41a4-b7c5-57452b848102" CreationDate="2016-01-28T02:22:08.140" UserId="1650" Text="Preferably one that is wireless and connects via a small usb dongle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Think of a gaming mouse. It has programmable buttons - you can program macros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Say you're using a windows 10 or 8.1 tablet. And say your specific tablet stylus does not have programmable buttons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is your best bet?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1901" RevisionGUID="bb575752-0c7c-41a4-b7c5-57452b848102" CreationDate="2016-01-28T02:22:08.140" UserId="1650" Text="Wristband or gloves with programmable buttons?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1901" RevisionGUID="bb575752-0c7c-41a4-b7c5-57452b848102" CreationDate="2016-01-28T02:22:08.140" UserId="1650" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;mouse&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="8e9d6a42-c351-4dd6-93fa-60fe7a1bd40b" CreationDate="2016-01-28T04:41:21.167" UserId="1420" Comment="Updated with link to carousel question" Text="As I were not able to find a DVD-R [carousel][1] within my price range that includes a reader, I'm considering buying eight DVD-R drives and controller-card(s) for extracting data off hundreds of CD-Rs and DVD-Rs. Most of my DVD-Rs are 16x or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To obtain full throughput to the filesystem when all drives are reading at the same time, what kind of hardware should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this do? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 USB 2.0 HUBS : http://www.dx.com/p/m6988-b-power-socket-style-high-speed-480mbps-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-black-40cm-cable-173752#.Vo3l-DZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 USB DVD-R slot-in drives : http://www.dx.com/p/super-slim-usb-2-0-slot-in-dvdrw-external-optical-drive-for-macbook-silver-black-274392#.Vo3mWDZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1724/optical-media-carousel-for-reading-dvd-r-and-cd-r-disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1902" RevisionGUID="0e0dda1c-c1ab-47f7-a053-a60daa54f040" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:01:13.990" UserId="1366" Text="In my opinion **Xiami RedMi 2 Pro** is much better choice than **SGS4**. Below I present pros for both phones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **Xiami RedMi 2 Pro**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - it's new&#xD;&#xA; - it has LTE&#xD;&#xA; - it has DualSIM&#xD;&#xA; - it uses MIUI OS which has regular updates&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SGS4**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - better screen (AMOLED 1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - better camera&#xD;&#xA; - it's cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU and GPU are similar in this models maybe a little better in **SGS4**. The biggest advantage of Samsung phone is AMOLED Full HD screen but my choice would be **Xiami RedMi 2 Pro** because it has regularly updated OS (MIUI), LTE, DualSIM and it is **brand new phone**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1903" RevisionGUID="f53c4002-d0a9-4002-bfee-fd222e67b5e8" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:25:02.020" UserId="241" Text="For $100, you're not going to get a new card.  New hardware RAID cards typically run several hundred dollars.  What you *can* get is an old server-class RAID card pulled from a retired system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend the [Areca ARC-1120 8-port card][1].  It's a universal PCI/PCI-X card, so it can fit in almost any PCI or PCI-X slot (the exception being those few PCI mainboards with components blocking the area occupied by the PCI-X part of the connector).  It supports RAID 5 (as well as a variety of other RAID levels), supports up to 8 SATA hard drives, doesn't require any drivers under Linux for basic operations but has them (as well as management software) for advanced functionality, and you can usually find one on Ebay for under $100.  Two things to watch out for when buying off Ebay: people sometimes mislabel the ARC-1120**ML** (two SAS multilane connectors rather than eight SATA connectors) or the ARC-1110 (four SATA connectors) as the ARC-1120.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can also strongly *dis*-recommend the 3Ware 9500S-8.  On paper, it looks similar to the ARC-1120, but appears to be optimized for benchmarking, and performs quite poorly with small-random-write workloads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.areca.com.tw/products/pcix.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1904" RevisionGUID="a09b04aa-70e1-4fc7-810b-bb85d82ba871" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:38:25.163" UserId="1652" Text="I'm going to get me a new Hardware/Software-system for my development.&#xD;&#xA;The project I'm currently in has about 60 sub-projects which are of type WPF, Server/Client, WCF, Rest-API and simple class-libraries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My (hardware) needs are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 14 or 15 inch display&#xD;&#xA; - minimum 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i5/i7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - 500GB HDD (may also be an hybrid drive with 8GB SSD)&#xD;&#xA; - 27 inch Monitor (Wide Quad HD / 2560 x 1440) [Dell @amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA; - USB-Docking-Station [DockingStation @amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My (software)-requirements are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10 Pro x64&#xD;&#xA; - Visual Studio 2015 Pro + latest ReSharper (currently V10)&#xD;&#xA; - latest Office (Standard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm going to spend at maximum 2,500€. What would be a good choice?&#xD;&#xA;Can I handle a second monitor with this Docking-Station? One directly connected to the laptop and one over the dock?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looking for something like [this @amazon][3], but I'm pretty sure that I do need some additional old-school HDD (maybe external) to not crash the SSD with all my builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/Dell-210-ADZG-U2515H-Monitor/dp/B00P6O3YYO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Getv2arAL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0PTJY6ZX5942RQH6K3CF&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.de/Plugable-Universelle-Dockingstation-Videoausg%C3%A4ngen-Schnittstelle/dp/B00GQ3685Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453966268&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=usb%20dockingstation%202560%20%201440&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.de/Asus-Zenbook-UX303UA-R4156T-Notebook-GeForce/dp/B017U9HZE2/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453966495&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=notebook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1904" RevisionGUID="a09b04aa-70e1-4fc7-810b-bb85d82ba871" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:38:25.163" UserId="1652" Text="Office/Business notebook for C# development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1904" RevisionGUID="a09b04aa-70e1-4fc7-810b-bb85d82ba871" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:38:25.163" UserId="1652" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="e800a7b5-2108-4520-bc65-0637b498a3b0" CreationDate="2016-01-28T10:45:28.260" UserId="1626" Text="i'm really confused buying a new monitor for me. I spend A LOT of time gaming (cs:go,bf4 and dota 2 mostly), programming and surfing and my current monitor (ASUS VS248H 24'') sitting at 1 meter, causes a lot of problems to me. This monitor is just &quot;a medium monitor&quot; and nothing else. Currently my GPU works great at MAX settings even in bf4 which is a heavy game. Now i'm looking forward buying a new monitor and i have a dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should i buy again 1080p but a really great and larger monitor or buy a &quot;medium 1440p monitor&quot; at the same price as 1080p? Of course i'm searching for a bigger one (minimum 25 inches, preferred 27+). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will my GPU strangle @ 1440p even with medium-low settings ingame or will be ok but playing at full load? Any recommendations are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hardware parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: i7 4790k + Hyper evo 212&#xD;&#xA; 2. MOBO: Asus z-97 pro gamer&#xD;&#xA; 3. GPU: Asus gtx960 strix 2GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAM: 16gb G.Skill 2400 XMP&#xD;&#xA; 5. CASE: Phanteks enthoo luxe&#xD;&#xA; 6. PSU: Corsair RM750 Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="e800a7b5-2108-4520-bc65-0637b498a3b0" CreationDate="2016-01-28T10:45:28.260" UserId="1626" Text="New monitor 1920x1080p or 2560x1440p with gtx960 2gb?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="e800a7b5-2108-4520-bc65-0637b498a3b0" CreationDate="2016-01-28T10:45:28.260" UserId="1626" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="ae81da7d-c1e3-430f-92cd-6b8ae352ef9f" CreationDate="2016-01-28T14:44:05.673" UserId="1626" Comment="deleted 125 characters in body" Text="i'm really confused buying a new monitor for me. I spend A LOT of time gaming (cs:go,bf4 and dota 2 mostly), programming and surfing and my current monitor (ASUS VS248H 24'') sitting at 1 meter, causes a lot of problems to me. This monitor is just &quot;a medium monitor&quot; and nothing else. Currently my GPU works great at MAX settings even in bf4 which is a heavy game. Now i'm looking forward buying a new monitor and i have a dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Should i buy again 1080p but a really great and larger monitor or buy a &quot;medium 1440p monitor&quot; at the same price as 1080p? Of course i'm searching for a bigger one (minimum 25 inches, preferred 27+). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hardware parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: i7 4790k + Hyper evo 212&#xD;&#xA; 2. MOBO: Asus z-97 pro gamer&#xD;&#xA; 3. GPU: Asus gtx960 strix 2GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAM: 16gb G.Skill 2400 XMP&#xD;&#xA; 5. CASE: Phanteks enthoo luxe&#xD;&#xA; 6. PSU: Corsair RM750 Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1907" RevisionGUID="065cce8b-21b2-46db-9b92-d67495072d78" CreationDate="2016-01-28T18:28:35.240" UserId="1656" Text="Looking for the lowest-power laptop possible, for use off grid powered by a very small solar array. My Yoga 2 11 draws 14 watts at idle (or what I would call idle, anyway). Five watts would be better. Four would be better still. Etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should be a real laptop (not tablet) with a real keyboard (not chiclet). I watch videos on it, but other than that no heavy lifting. I have looked at the EnergyStar listings, found them difficult to use, and am unsure how to compare their numbers with my real-life experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specific recommendations are welcome. So are general principles, e.g. which types of components are most energy efficient. I assume that SSDs are better than spinning disks, and passive cooling better than fans. Beyond that I have no idea--e.g., which types of display, memory, power supply, etc. are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1907" RevisionGUID="065cce8b-21b2-46db-9b92-d67495072d78" CreationDate="2016-01-28T18:28:35.240" UserId="1656" Text="Lowest-power laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1907" RevisionGUID="065cce8b-21b2-46db-9b92-d67495072d78" CreationDate="2016-01-28T18:28:35.240" UserId="1656" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1908" RevisionGUID="7726da7c-96c7-4b19-a7f2-ca834ad0788b" CreationDate="2016-01-28T18:31:09.347" UserId="1657" Text="To measure the signal integrity all you need is an oscilloscope. Your requirements aren't in the (old) I2C specifications, but need to be found in the data sheets for your particular devices connected to the bus.&#xA;&#xA;For sniffing and analyzing the bus I'd recommend a Saleae Logic. (www.saleae.com)&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1908" RevisionGUID="d449dff2-2c9c-418d-8dd8-028b2e64aee1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T20:58:25.463" UserId="1657" Comment="added 28 characters in body; added 180 characters in body" Text="To measure the signal integrity all you need is an oscilloscope. Your requirements aren't in the (old) I2C specifications, but need to be found in the data sheets for your particular devices connected to the bus.&#xA;&#xA;For sniffing and analyzing the bus I'd recommend a Saleae Logic. (www.saleae.com). Later versions can perform analog measurements, too.&#xA;All measurements can be automated (and networked) and they have a nice API available to customize your specific measurement. &#xA;&#xA;(Please explain down vote. )" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1908" RevisionGUID="c930ba08-4f51-4b72-9341-47c2506d03ec" CreationDate="2016-01-28T23:02:57.053" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 28 characters in body" Text="To measure the signal integrity all you need is an oscilloscope. Your requirements aren't in the (old) I2C specifications, but need to be found in the data sheets for your particular devices connected to the bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For sniffing and analyzing the bus I'd recommend a Saleae Logic. (http://www.saleae.com). Later versions can perform analog measurements, too.&#xD;&#xA;All measurements can be automated (and networked) and they have a nice API available to customize your specific measurement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="1c85df3c-4d84-4693-a779-efcf75e84566" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:03:54.650" UserId="164" Comment="Made question more specific- just a template to be changed" Text="This CPU is for a gaming system under a tight budget. However, there is no need for an integrated GPU. In my current state, I am looking for the best AMD CPU available to buy. It can be any socket, as a new motherboard is needed anyway. &#xD;&#xA;So my question is, what is the best value AMD chip under $70 for performance and value." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="1c85df3c-4d84-4693-a779-efcf75e84566" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:03:54.650" UserId="164" Comment="Made question more specific- just a template to be changed" Text="Best value AMD CPU for under $70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1893" RevisionGUID="1c85df3c-4d84-4693-a779-efcf75e84566" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:03:54.650" Comment="Proposed by 164 approved by 155 edit id of 377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1901" RevisionGUID="c96b10b9-6955-4047-a24f-f652739920c8" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:05:50.510" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1894" RevisionGUID="273460f8-68fe-4f5b-ae4a-a38ee806b7cf" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:11:35.497" UserId="164" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="The best available CPU at ~70$ U.S. is the AMD Athlon X4 860K. It is an FM2+ socket Kaveri chip with for compute cores. It is clocked at 3.7 Gigahertz stock, though generally has very good overclocking potential, if interested, and also happens to be the CPU that powers my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pretty much any Intel CPU beats it out in single core performance at stock, but when overclocked, it approaches i3 performance per core and has an extra 2 cores to work with. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AMD FX-6300 is also another chip you might want to look into. It has 6 cores, each slightly inferior to the X4 860K's. However, it costs $90 and is on a dying CPU socket, the AM3+, which will be totally replaced by Zen later this year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to wait for the new Zen AMD CPUs to come out (AM4 socket), that is a good idea too, as they are supposed to actually compete with Intel i5 and i7 processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1909" RevisionGUID="99f45c64-8dc5-4a53-827d-db3013ac007c" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:24:11.933" UserId="1366" Text="I'm looking for **external sound card** up to **$100** because I'm using build on [MSI Z87i Gaming AC][1] (or can I use internal sound card on this motherboard ?) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it to gaming and music with 2.0 speakers for about $100 but I don't know which I will buy, yet (separate question).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Xonar U5][2] - $70&#xD;&#xA; - [Prodigy Cube Black Edition][3] - $90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product should I choose or maybe you have other more intresting propositions ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Sound-Card-Xonar-U5/dp/B00MI8IDRE/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454051558&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=xonar&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOTRAK-PCUBE-BLK-ED-Prodigy-Black-Edition/dp/B00X8RCPJQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1909" RevisionGUID="99f45c64-8dc5-4a53-827d-db3013ac007c" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:24:11.933" UserId="1366" Text="External SoundCard under $100 (2.0 speakers)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1909" RevisionGUID="99f45c64-8dc5-4a53-827d-db3013ac007c" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:24:11.933" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="7cb4517c-7524-4560-ab32-c12cc30c3d80" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:34:03.973" UserId="1366" Text="I'm looking for 2.0 speakers which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][1]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][2] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="7cb4517c-7524-4560-ab32-c12cc30c3d80" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:34:03.973" UserId="1366" Text="2.0 speakers for about $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="7cb4517c-7524-4560-ab32-c12cc30c3d80" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:34:03.973" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1909" RevisionGUID="0c13ec93-258e-42d0-8697-ba1383b865a0" CreationDate="2016-01-29T07:34:55.167" UserId="1366" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for **external sound card** up to **$100** because I'm using build on [MSI Z87i Gaming AC][1] (or can I use internal sound card on this motherboard ?) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it to gaming and music with 2.0 speakers for about $100 but I don't know which I will buy, yet ([separate question][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Xonar U5][3] - $70&#xD;&#xA; - [Prodigy Cube Black Edition][4] - $90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product should I choose or maybe you have other more intresting propositions ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1910/2-0-speakers-for-about-100&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Sound-Card-Xonar-U5/dp/B00MI8IDRE/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454051558&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=xonar&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOTRAK-PCUBE-BLK-ED-Prodigy-Black-Edition/dp/B00X8RCPJQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1911" RevisionGUID="4fff44ad-fe7a-4c6a-8843-b542cbeea6fb" CreationDate="2016-01-29T10:05:00.200" UserId="1329" Text="When given the choice between onboard, Xonar U5¹ and Prodigy Cube² under $100 one would probably go for the highest quality product available. A few years ago I would have chosen the Prodigy Cube, because it has designer components and an impressive professional looking [product page][1]. I bit later I would have gone with professional recording interfaces, but unless you can actually evaluate the objective audio performance of a device, a discussion will be more subjective based on taste and preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Try onboard first. You are already willing to pay for it and it can be your fallback if the external soundcard drops out.&#xD;&#xA;- I recommended to read a review about the Behringer UCA202 (~$30) in: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1663/1329. I feel a bit ashamed for dropping the name in every second answer of mine, but that is as much as I know or have experience with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Asus support staff was unable to answer a question about demanding low impedance headphones regarding their high-end soundcards. I have little to no confidence recommending their products if *&quot;supports 600Ω&quot;* is what they can say about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I was interested in buying a Dr.DAC from Audiotrak until I read that the Alps potentiometer usually crackles and that this can be avoided in high quality designs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://audiotrack.net/en/usb/4009" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="ba2f2a87-447c-4772-9e80-0f39fa0ae763" CreationDate="2016-01-29T10:37:20.550" UserId="1366" Comment="added 126 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using [Creative T40 Series II][1]) which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][2]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][3] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://en.europe.creative.com/p/speakers/gigaworks-t40-series-ii&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="75df60c0-6209-4061-b207-6fb6bca82bcf" CreationDate="2016-01-29T10:44:20.100" UserId="1366" Comment="deleted 79 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I) which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][2]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][3] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="b5f828be-f8b6-4591-9256-ed88a307ea79" CreationDate="2016-01-29T12:57:16.947" UserId="1420" Comment="rephrased to ask for other type of hardware" Text="As I were not able to find a DVD-R [carousel][1] within my price range that includes a reader, I'm considering buying eight DVD-R drives and controller-card(s) for extracting data off hundreds of CD-Rs and DVD-Rs. Most of my DVD-Rs are 16x or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I first thought that the following configuration would work, but connecting four USB 2.0 drives to one USB 2.0/3.0 hub would limit the speed, as the design of hubs in general will have a total capacity of one USB 2.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 USB 2.0 HUBS : http://www.dx.com/p/m6988-b-power-socket-style-high-speed-480mbps-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-black-40cm-cable-173752#.Vo3l-DZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;- 8 USB DVD-R slot-in drives : http://www.dx.com/p/super-slim-usb-2-0-slot-in-dvdrw-external-optical-drive-for-macbook-silver-black-274392#.Vo3mWDZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware configuration would have an optimal speed to extract all drives at the same time in good speed?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1724/optical-media-carousel-for-reading-dvd-r-and-cd-r-disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="221436f3-234d-491e-9730-828b4868e594" CreationDate="2016-01-29T13:49:54.820" UserId="1626" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="i'm really confused buying a new monitor for me. I spend A LOT of time gaming (cs:go,bf4 and dota 2 mostly), programming and surfing and my current monitor (ASUS VS248H 24'') sitting at 1 meter, causes a lot of problems to me. This monitor is just &quot;a medium monitor&quot; and nothing else. Currently my GPU works great at MAX settings even in bf4 which is a heavy game. Now i'm looking forward buying a new monitor and i have a dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Should i buy again 1080p but a really great and larger monitor or buy a &quot;medium 1440p monitor&quot; at the same price as 1080p? Because i don't really know if my GPU can handle or strungle 1440p for gaming! Of course i'm searching for a bigger one (minimum 25 inches, preferred 27+). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hardware parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: i7 4790k + Hyper evo 212&#xD;&#xA; 2. MOBO: Asus z-97 pro gamer&#xD;&#xA; 3. GPU: Asus gtx960 strix 2GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAM: 16gb G.Skill 2400 XMP&#xD;&#xA; 5. CASE: Phanteks enthoo luxe&#xD;&#xA; 6. PSU: Corsair RM750 Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="6353b83c-309f-4825-87b9-08d111ddb3f6" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:22:09.220" UserId="57" Comment="Spelling" Text="I'm really confused buying a new monitor for me. I spend A LOT of time gaming (cs:go, bf4 and dota 2 mostly), programming and surfing and my current monitor (ASUS VS248H 24&quot;) sitting at 1 meter, causes a lot of problems to me. This monitor is just &quot;a medium monitor&quot; and nothing else. Currently my GPU works great at MAX settings even in bf4 which is a heavy game. Now I'm looking forward buying a new monitor and I have an dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is: Should I buy again 1080p but a really great and larger monitor or buy a &quot;medium 1440p monitor&quot; at the same price as 1080p? Because I don't really know if my GPU can handle or strungle 1440p for gaming! Of course I'm searching for a bigger one (minimum 25 inches, preferred 27+).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hardware parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: i7 4790k + Hyper evo 212&#xD;&#xA; 2. MOBO: Asus z-97 pro gamer&#xD;&#xA; 3. GPU: Asus gtx960 strix 2GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAM: 16gb G.Skill 2400 XMP&#xD;&#xA; 5. CASE: Phanteks enthoo luxe&#xD;&#xA; 6. PSU: Corsair RM750 Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="c822dc5e-baf5-4f13-8bb2-a1bac5f2ab69" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:33:48.003" UserId="1420" Text="Connecting two USB2 devices to a USB2/3 HUB would in theory limit the average read-speed to 240 Mb/s, and continuing adding devices would limit the average speed to 480Mb/s divided by number of devices. The same would be if using a USB controller card on the mainboard of most computers, as they are normally implemented using one controller card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the solution is to get USB controller(s) that can handle the speed of all the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist a USB controller card that are able to handle the full speed of eight USB 2.0 devices, or would I need to buy separate USB controllers? (480Mb/s * 8 = 3.84 Gbps)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="c822dc5e-baf5-4f13-8bb2-a1bac5f2ab69" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:33:48.003" UserId="1420" Text="Controller card(s) for handling eight USB 2.0 devices at full speed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="c822dc5e-baf5-4f13-8bb2-a1bac5f2ab69" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:33:48.003" UserId="1420" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="73730dc3-2908-4863-8e6c-cef21bbac764" CreationDate="2016-01-29T22:52:28.437" UserId="530" Comment="Added section on Bluetooth version of Freestyle keyboard." Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][5]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][7] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][8] (one for PC, [one for Mac][9]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][10]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. It can be completely re-programmed by you or third-parties. For the convenience of non-programmers, they promise to provide a simple utility app to arbitrarily re-assign keys as you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also program control of each key’s LED light. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://shop.keyboard.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1913" RevisionGUID="e5482dbc-f278-4a8f-80e5-dec0210ef550" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:18:43.043" UserId="1668" Text="Will THIS GPU: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-750Ti-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00IDG3IDO, fit my PC: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c04803166?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know my PC has PCI express 3.0, which I think that gpu needs. If not, what's a good GPU thats around ~$120 that's compatible? And what PSU will I need?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1913" RevisionGUID="e5482dbc-f278-4a8f-80e5-dec0210ef550" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:18:43.043" UserId="1668" Text="Will this GPU fit my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1913" RevisionGUID="e5482dbc-f278-4a8f-80e5-dec0210ef550" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:18:43.043" UserId="1668" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="f04d20a7-2105-42f5-b82b-52c74125c9aa" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:58:00.210" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7007" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1879" RevisionGUID="a66d8648-d0b0-43b9-8d94-c65558a715f2" CreationDate="2016-01-30T09:19:54.270" UserId="1628" Comment="Edit to make it clear that the keyboard needs to be built in." Text="Windows PC laptop with built-in mac-like keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="78bdcb65-8c7a-42c3-b89e-dbf73adf4b1a" CreationDate="2016-01-30T18:14:35.003" UserId="530" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][5]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][7] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][8] (one for PC, [one for Mac][9]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][10]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;## DIY Dream&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. Built on top of the open [Aduino][11] platform. It can be *completely* re-programmed by you or third-parties. No restrictive license. You can even program control of each key’s individual LED light. &#xA;&#xA;For the convenience of non-programmers, they promise to provide a simple utility app to arbitrarily re-assign keys as you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [5]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xA;  [8]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xA;  [10]: http://shop.keyboard.io&#xA;  [11]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="04104df8-5163-43c0-a9b1-4ffba0547464" CreationDate="2016-01-30T18:22:13.700" UserId="530" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping. Working with a good [Pilates][5] trainer helped me immensely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][6]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][8] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][9] (one for PC, [one for Mac][10]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][11]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;## DIY Dream&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. Built on top of the open [Aduino][12] platform. It can be *completely* re-programmed by you or third-parties. No restrictive license. You can even program control of each key’s individual LED light. &#xA;&#xA;For the convenience of non-programmers, a simple utility app arbitrarily re-assign keys any way you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [5]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilates&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xA;  [10]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xA;  [11]: http://shop.keyboard.io&#xA;  [12]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1913" RevisionGUID="3879a441-888e-4516-837b-7a5df1cfb0af" CreationDate="2016-01-31T00:24:29.600" UserId="1668" Comment="added 298 characters in body" Text="Will THIS GPU: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-750Ti-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00IDG3IDO, fit my PC: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c04803166?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know my PC has PCI express 3.0, which I think that gpu needs. If not, what's a good GPU thats around ~$120 that's compatible? And what PSU will I need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that doesn't fit, here are some requirements if u want to suggest something:  &#xD;&#xA;- Must support my PC(ofc)  &#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to run Minecraft at 60~ fps at medium settings  &#xD;&#xA;- No intel.  &#xD;&#xA;- It must be $130 or below  &#xD;&#xA;- It must be able to run Cities Skylines at 10~ fps at medium settings&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1856" RevisionGUID="2b1f46a5-8f98-433f-9425-2c5cf84582bc" CreationDate="2016-01-31T01:22:45.343" UserId="164" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="When I built my PC a year ago, I bought a really cheap case. It did not have USB 3.0 or audio on the front panel, and I regret it now. I already have new case fans for the thing, and it runs quietly, but I really do want a new case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case I want:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Black and/or red, to match the rest of the build&#xD;&#xA; - Has a case window on the side&#xD;&#xA; - Has support for 2 or more 5 and 1/2 inch drives&#xD;&#xA; - Has front facing USB 3.0 and Audio&#xD;&#xA; - Costs less than $60&#xD;&#xA; - Supports full ATX motherboard and Power Supply&#xD;&#xA; - Is large enough 12.5 inch graphics card&#xD;&#xA; - Has cable management at least somewhat in mind&#xD;&#xA; - Is wide enough to support the Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler&#xD;&#xA; - If a cover goes over the front of the case, the hinge must be on the right side&#xD;&#xA; - I do not need decent fans, as I have 4 red and very quiet corsair fans&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - **Optional** If possible, I would love support for USB type C, although my motherboard only has 3.0 headers, so an adapter would be needed&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1905" RevisionGUID="ba1e48fc-3ea6-4a44-9737-fa490005fa3c" CreationDate="2016-01-31T02:58:23.960" UserId="155" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1918" RevisionGUID="47c5de71-804f-4e3f-97e0-0f2f2476cdae" CreationDate="2016-01-31T03:33:30.547" UserId="1674" Text="Ok so I am going to be building a smart home using a small Raspberry possibly but I needed some recommendations! I hope this is the right place to post. But basically here is what i was thinking:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibly use a Relay Switch to control the lights in my room, but use a transmitter and receiver to make it go on and off using the Raspberry Pi. But i am not sure exactly HOW to do it. What would the layout be or the schematics?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you everyone for helping!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1918" RevisionGUID="47c5de71-804f-4e3f-97e0-0f2f2476cdae" CreationDate="2016-01-31T03:33:30.547" UserId="1674" Text="IoT Smart home recommendation - controlling lights" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1918" RevisionGUID="47c5de71-804f-4e3f-97e0-0f2f2476cdae" CreationDate="2016-01-31T03:33:30.547" UserId="1674" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1919" RevisionGUID="c40e0640-b249-4abd-8319-162bf3aa815a" CreationDate="2016-01-31T04:51:28.000" UserId="1675" Text="I'd recommend the [Matias Laptop Pro](http://matias.ca/laptoppro/mac/).  Subjectively, the Quiet Click switches are possibly my favorite quiet switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's compare with your **requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine works very nicely with my 2009 MacBook Pro and my iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Haven't found it to be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost is $170+shipping from Matias, currently $160 and free shipping with Prime on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Format should be US/QWERTY. Bonus points if I can rip the keycaps off and turn it onto Dvorak, if I ever get the ambition up to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This board is US/QWERTY.  You may want to order separate F &amp; J keys if you don't want the homing bumps to be in the wrong spots.  As a bonus, the stock caps for this board also list the characters you can type using option+key and option+shift+key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ideally:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is 100% bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also has the modifiers in the proper OS X order and says &quot;option&quot; instead of &quot;alt&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not as quiet as my TypeHeaven, but not any louder than the MX Clear switches of the CODE keyboard.  Decidedly not a &quot;superclicker&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not needed:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;None to worry about here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when travelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're getting that anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1920" RevisionGUID="598a14be-f55f-4f59-9ddc-98aac5910d07" CreationDate="2016-01-31T05:30:50.700" UserId="1675" Text="If you have large pockets (not necessarily cargo pants size), the Poker ][ is a very nice pocket-size board.  Mine has an aftermarket aluminum case, which means it's a very tight fit in my pants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![This would've fit much better had I removed my wallet and keys first][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vortex has since discontinued the Poker ][ in favor of the Pok3r, which comes with a stock aluminium case and has a different default fn-layer mapping.  Other 60% keyboards should be about the same size as the Poker series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking for something even smaller and are willing to live with using the numbers from a function layer, the JD 40 (since discontinued, or at least no longer listed on the manufacturer's website, https://www.crtralt.io) was a good bet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you do not mind both a the 40% size and an ortholinear layout, the [Planck](http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck) is your way to go.  [Its manufacturer](http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/) also makes parts for the [Atomic](http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/atomic), which is an ortholinear 60% keyboard that you get to assemble yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the [TypeMatrix 2030](http://www.typematrix.com/2030/features.php) is deeper and maybe a bit wider than the other options, but is easily the thinnest of the bunch.  It's a 60% ortholinear keyboard with scissor switches (the others all use traditional mechanical switches).  It won't fit into any pockets (unless you count the font pocket of a hoodie sweatshirt, but it will easily fit into a briefcase, backpack, or on top of a stack of books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/V5FdK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1908" RevisionGUID="a69856a4-2a16-46ba-a7f2-1987556c2b87" CreationDate="2016-01-31T07:24:00.450" UserId="1657" Comment="Added a beeakdown of how real-world I2C verification and development are usually done. " Text="To measure the signal integrity all you need is an oscilloscope. Your requirements aren't in the (old) I2C specifications, but need to be found in the data sheets for your particular devices connected to the bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For sniffing and analyzing the bus I'd recommend a Saleae Logic. (http://www.saleae.com). Later versions can perform analog measurements, too.&#xD;&#xA;All measurements can be automated (and networked) and they have a nice API available to customize your specific measurement.&#xA;&#xA;**Edit to elaborate on details:**&#xA;&#xA;You will need to consider what you need, and when you need it.  The list of things you want to do not usually fit in one test.&#xA;&#xA;I usually break down to these stages:&#xA;&#xA;**Circuit design**&#xA;&#xA;This is where you read the data sheet for the I2C slave devices. They each specify the min/max raise/fall timing for both the clock and data signal (usually identical). You usually are able to ensure correct timing by using standard value pull-up resistors. Make sure to provide test pads on both SDA and SCL lines. &#xA;&#xA;**Circuit verification**&#xA;&#xA;When you have your first PCB back from manufacturing it's time to verify that the design parameters are correct. With a powered circuit, measure the short-to-ground current of both the signal lines and ensure it fits with your calculated design values. Then use hardware bring up software to make the I2C host generate data trafic and verify with an oscilloscope (or other means) that your design parameters are meet. You may have some capacity from the PCB design that screws up your design parameters. In bad cases you may even have to redo the board layout to fix it. &#xA;&#xA;**System bring up**&#xA;&#xA;This is where you start implementing drivers for each of the slave devices. Therefore an I2C analyser can be a very handy thing. &#xA;This is usually the time you discover cross-talk related problems, to which you either devise a time-sliced workaround or -more correctly- go back to the design to fix it. &#xA;&#xA;**Production testing**&#xA;&#xA;At this point you know you have a working design and a working system. The components are tested by the manufacturer so we can assume they are working. Usual problems associated to manufacturing are component miss-placement, bad soldering and shorts. You can verify all this with two simple measurements on the test points: Voltage at test-point and the short-to-ground current from the test-point. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;With this I hope you have a better understanding of what your requirements in reality are. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="b3c1800d-e634-4814-96c0-8ec5b9540707" CreationDate="2016-02-01T06:16:52.070" UserId="1366" Comment="added 468 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I) which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][2]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][3] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clarifying why and what I want to buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Why ?: My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA; - What ?: I want to buy set of two speakers which I can put on both sides of my screen. I will use it to gaming and listening to music. I want them to produce strong and clear sound (as good as it can be in this price range) and cost around **$100**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="4138d445-b748-4f7e-ac70-20ee5227abee" CreationDate="2016-02-01T08:43:52.930" UserId="1420" Comment="Added info on USB channels" Text="Connecting two USB2 devices to an external USB2/3 HUB, connected to one USB2/3 port would normally limit the average read-speed to 240 Mb/s, and continuing adding devices would limit the average speed to 480Mb/s divided by number of devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same would be if I use a USB controller card on the mainboard of most computers, as they are normally implemented using only one [USB channels][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the solution for handling eight devices in full speed is to get USB controller(s) that is implemented using eight dedicated channels to handle the speed of all of the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist a USB controller card that are able to handle the full speed of eight USB 2.0 devices, or would I need to buy separate USB controllers? (480Mb/s * 8 = 3.84 Gbps)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/a/405356/506409" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1918" RevisionGUID="880a45f2-0496-46f2-a6d5-54a7353d3a0f" CreationDate="2016-02-01T08:58:18.633" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1922" RevisionGUID="1cee2609-2999-480e-93cb-1030e51718b5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:24:59.133" UserId="1680" Text="I **am not** an electrical engineer. I am a **software developer**. Currently I have to create a program that allows users to schedule TV programs for a TV station. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I visited the station I encountered (for the first time in my life) a metal box that has 3 pairs of composite inputs, and a single output. It's a typical **RCA Audio and Video Switcher**. It has no serial number, no brand, it's a plain metal box that almost seems handmade. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A requirement is for the program to switch between the three composite inputs in that metal box **programmatically**. Because the previous developing team is no longer active, there is **zero** documentation for that project. There is no source code, there is nothing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question is**: is there a manufactured RCA Audio Video switcher that (out of the box) allows me to switch between inputs through software (*Node-Webkit*) ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched but all the results I have come up with are for users to manually switch inputs with either a remote controller or physical switch (in the form of a stick or wheel) located in the switcher itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Appreciate the input -- pun intended --." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1922" RevisionGUID="1cee2609-2999-480e-93cb-1030e51718b5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:24:59.133" UserId="1680" Text="RCA Audio Video Switcher controlled via software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1922" RevisionGUID="1cee2609-2999-480e-93cb-1030e51718b5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:24:59.133" UserId="1680" Text="&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1922" RevisionGUID="bfd5875c-0e44-4dda-9093-abfb37988a84" CreationDate="2016-02-01T13:33:06.303" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 44 characters in body" Text="I **am not** an electrical engineer. I am a **software developer**. Currently I have to create a program that allows users to schedule TV programs for a TV station. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I visited the station I encountered (for the first time in my life) a metal box that has 3 pairs of composite inputs, and a single output. It's a typical **RCA Audio and Video Switcher**. It has no serial number, no brand, it's a plain metal box that almost seems handmade. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A requirement is for the program to switch between the three composite inputs in that metal box **programmatically**. Because the previous developing team is no longer active, there is **zero** documentation for that project. There is no source code, there is nothing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question is**: is there a manufactured RCA Audio Video switcher that (out of the box) allows me to switch between inputs through software (*Node-Webkit*) ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched but all the results I have come up with are for users to manually switch inputs with either a remote controller or physical switch (in the form of a stick or wheel) located in the switcher itself." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1923" RevisionGUID="6e4f1687-6b18-425d-b7d0-0c472c1a1b88" CreationDate="2016-02-01T19:02:25.640" UserId="1024" Text="The Asus Xonar D2X appears to fulfil your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two links regarding Linux support:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.linux-hardware-guide.com/2014-08-02-asus-xonar-d2x-sound-card-pcie-7-1-digital-inout-dolby-dts-eax-192khz-24bit-asio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.alsa-project.org/main/index.php/Matrix:Vendor-Asus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon.de appears to list it for under 150€. E.g.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.de/Asus-D2X-interne-Soundkarte-Digital/dp/B0011BC1FO/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also an ASIO sound card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="8824083a-2609-49fc-b6ab-fef1b67cb460" CreationDate="2016-02-02T05:26:08.630" UserId="1111" Text="I am looking for an interior temperature and humidity logger that meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Log access via WiFi or wired ethernet. USB not acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;- Ability to store at least 48 hours of data if no connection available.&#xD;&#xA;- Sampling rate every 1 hour or faster.&#xD;&#xA;- Multiple devices can be used on same network / with same PC.&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature accuracy at least +/- 0.5C.&#xD;&#xA;- Relative humidity accuracy at least +/- 1%.&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature range at least -10C to +40C.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some sacrifice in accuracy may be OK if necessary to keep the cost down. Barometric pressure would be a nice-to-have but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following things do not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Battery vs. wall power.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life.&#xD;&#xA;- Wall-mount vs. anything else.&#xD;&#xA;- Log viewing can be with proprietary software, no standard protocols or storage formats needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this device](http://www.weathershop.com/wifith.htm), which has almost all of the features I am looking for aside from humidity accuracy (+/- 2.5%), except it is currently $159.50 USD ($140.80 minimum cost from random small vendors on Google) and has [terrible Amazon reviews](http://www.amazon.com/LASCAR-EL-WiFi-TH-Wireless-Temperature-Logger/dp/B008LVQBI0#customerReviews) (that appears to be the TH+ higher temperature accuracy model but I have a hunch the hardware quality is similar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am finding that the network access requirement is severely limiting options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="8824083a-2609-49fc-b6ab-fef1b67cb460" CreationDate="2016-02-02T05:26:08.630" UserId="1111" Text="Low cost temperature and humidity logger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="8824083a-2609-49fc-b6ab-fef1b67cb460" CreationDate="2016-02-02T05:26:08.630" UserId="1111" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;automation&gt;&lt;scientific-instruments&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="ecc4b47d-a6c0-4898-a921-db9ea64aed3e" CreationDate="2016-02-02T05:53:58.597" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;scientific-instruments&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="0cb00af0-4ce7-40eb-ab22-b5cec9f4c636" CreationDate="2016-02-02T06:45:21.673" UserId="1366" Comment="added 343 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I) which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][2]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][3] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clarifying why and what I want to buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Why ?: My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA; - What ?: I want to buy set of two speakers which I can put on both sides of my screen. I will use it to gaming and listening to music. I want them to produce strong and clear sound (as good as it can be in this price range) and cost around **$100**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@cjm - answering your questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm listening to pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - I really have no comparison between active vs passive speakers. I always used active speakers. Would I need amplifier to passive speakers ?&#xD;&#xA; - Getting loud is not my top priority I want to hear bass from speakers but I don't need it to be very loud.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="3ae90570-ced6-44a2-a47c-57c796a026f0" CreationDate="2016-02-02T07:58:24.660" UserId="1366" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I) which I will use with external soundcard ([other question][2]) for gaming and music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][3] - about $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you have some other propositions ? It may be little more expensive if it will be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clarifying why and what I want to buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Why ?: My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA; - What ?: I want to buy set of two speakers which I can put on both sides of my screen. I will use it to gaming and listening to music. I want them to produce strong and clear sound (as good as it can be in this price range) and cost around **$100**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@cjm - answering your questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm listening to pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - I really have no comparison between active vs passive speakers. I always used active speakers. Would I need amplifier to passive speakers ?&#xD;&#xA; - Getting loud is not my top priority I want to hear bass from speakers but I don't need speakers to be very loud.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1909/external-soundcard-under-100-2-0-speakers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="361bd150-83af-4e2f-875a-04744bd8194c" CreationDate="2016-02-02T15:34:00.937" UserId="1111" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an interior temperature and humidity logger that meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Log access via WiFi or wired ethernet. USB not acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;- Ability to store at least 48 hours of data if no connection available.&#xD;&#xA;- Sampling rate every 1 hour or faster.&#xD;&#xA;- Multiple devices can be used on same network / with same PC.&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature accuracy at least +/- 0.5C.&#xD;&#xA;- Relative humidity accuracy at least +/- 1%.&#xD;&#xA;- Temperature range at least -10C to +40C.&#xD;&#xA;- Windows or Linux compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some sacrifice in accuracy may be OK if necessary to keep the cost down. Barometric pressure would be a nice-to-have but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following things do not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Battery vs. wall power.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life.&#xD;&#xA;- Wall-mount vs. anything else.&#xD;&#xA;- Log viewing can be with proprietary software, no standard protocols or storage formats needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also open to suggestions for reliable components for a DIY solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this device](http://www.weathershop.com/wifith.htm), which has almost all of the features I am looking for aside from humidity accuracy (+/- 2.5%), except it is currently $159.50 USD ($140.80 minimum cost from random small vendors on Google) and has [terrible Amazon reviews](http://www.amazon.com/LASCAR-EL-WiFi-TH-Wireless-Temperature-Logger/dp/B008LVQBI0#customerReviews) (that appears to be the TH+ higher temperature accuracy model but I have a hunch the hardware quality is similar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am finding that the network access requirement is severely limiting options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="867acdf8-7bb8-4baf-9552-3d9b54cac481" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:33:41.067" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1826" RevisionGUID="451c23ec-031d-451f-b45d-a24de26ee3db" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:40:39.493" UserId="1559" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="Looking to upgrade my Computer which is used for Gaming, Image editing, Audio capture, Video editing &amp; Recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Processor: Intel Core i7-4771 Quad Core Socket LGA 1150 Processor&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI, Intel H87 MiniITX, Socket 1150&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ram: 8GB DDR3 1600mhz &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Hard Drive: Seagate 2 TB Desktop 3.5 Internal SSHD &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 GPU, MSI ARMOR 2X Overclocked Edition &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Case: Zalman Z7 &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Power Supply: 550W Modular Powercool Black PSU 80 Plus 12cm Fan SATA Power&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Microphone: Blue Microphones Nessie USB Microphone&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Capture Card: Hauppauge HD PVR 2 gaming edition&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking of upgrading the Motherboard, Memory or adding a small SSD as a boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would a different motherboard better the performance of the CPU or GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would faster, larger memory make a difference?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything else I should consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I upgrade part-by-part over time so budget isn't so much an issue but for each purchase I'd be looking at £100-£150. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1215" RevisionGUID="b3d35724-038b-4e24-8a9d-9881d5fdf0e2" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:41:01.270" UserId="155" Comment="wrote out info from linked image" Text="Hi I want to purchase a two in one laptop for college to bring around programming. I took a screenshot of the specs that it has. I googled and researched the specs needed for the IDEs Eclipse and Android Studio but I'm still a bit uneducated on the full extent of what I need. With the specs in the screen shot, would I be able to run the IDEs with moderate programming?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Relevant Specs:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core M 5Y10C (800MHz, 2 cores)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: Intel HD Graphics 5300&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 4GB&#xD;&#xA;- Screen: 11.6&quot; 1920x1080 IPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1826" RevisionGUID="2a4c28af-4ca7-4241-a453-29caec25dbbd" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:37:38.587" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1935" RevisionGUID="edda047b-331b-4b62-bbd9-0266da297020" CreationDate="2016-02-04T09:29:43.667" UserId="1705" Text="I'm reaching the limits of my old Notebook, since it only has a GeForce 630M and I want to use it for a bit of gaming, too. It's kinda  sad, because the i7-2670QM still does the job quite well...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about buying a new one, but I'd like to have a nice graphics card that does it's job without beeing too expensive. So what is the graphics card (I prefer Nvidia, but if AMD has something way better I would also consider using it) with the best Price-performance ratio?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Laptop GPU available in normal sized Notebooks (I don't want a monster, it should still be *portable*)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 1 HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 outputs in sum, preferable VGA &#xD;&#xA; - able to be used for games on the market right now (not high settings, just *playable* - my current 630M doesn't even manage 5 FPS for Rise of the Tomb Raider on lowest settings)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have suggestions for a full system, this would be nice, too, but the question aims to give me a overview of Graphic Cards which would meet my requirements. Afterwards I'll search for a new Notebook with one of these built in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1935" RevisionGUID="edda047b-331b-4b62-bbd9-0266da297020" CreationDate="2016-02-04T09:29:43.667" UserId="1705" Text="Laptop GPU by Price-performance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1935" RevisionGUID="edda047b-331b-4b62-bbd9-0266da297020" CreationDate="2016-02-04T09:29:43.667" UserId="1705" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1935" RevisionGUID="a2c34982-2d22-4eb9-b5b2-29a32a2d3cab" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:07:39.050" UserId="1705" Comment="added &quot;price range&quot;" Text="I'm reaching the limits of my old Notebook, since it only has a GeForce 630M and I want to use it for a bit of gaming, too. It's kinda  sad, because the i7-2670QM still does the job quite well...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about buying a new one, but I'd like to have a nice graphics card that does it's job without beeing too expensive. So what is the graphics card (I prefer Nvidia, but if AMD has something way better I would also consider using it) with the best Price-performance ratio?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Laptop GPU available in normal sized Notebooks (I don't want a monster, it should still be *portable*)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 1 HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 outputs in sum, preferable VGA &#xD;&#xA; - able to be used for games on the market right now (not high settings, just *playable* - my current 630M doesn't even manage 5 FPS for Rise of the Tomb Raider on lowest settings)&#xD;&#xA; - I don't want to spend mroe than 1k€ for the full system (or rather I can't afford T.T), and since I also want an i7 and a good amount of RAM, the GPU itself mustn't be too expensive &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have suggestions for a full system, this would be nice, too, but the question aims to give me a overview of Graphic Cards which would meet my requirements. Afterwards I'll search for a new Notebook with one of these built in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1935" RevisionGUID="b1a8bf53-7a12-432f-b45e-36e5c7dce407" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:20:27.023" UserId="1705" Comment="added performance range" Text="I'm reaching the limits of my old Notebook, since it only has a GeForce 630M and I want to use it for a bit of gaming, too. It's kinda  sad, because the i7-2670QM still does the job quite well...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about buying a new one, but I'd like to have a nice graphics card that does it's job without beeing too expensive. So what is the graphics card (I prefer Nvidia, but if AMD has something way better I would also consider using it) with the best Price-performance ratio?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Laptop GPU available in normal sized Notebooks (I don't want a monster, it should still be *portable*)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 1 HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 outputs in sum, preferable VGA &#xD;&#xA; - able to be used for games on the market right now (not high settings, just *playable* - my current 630M doesn't even manage 5 FPS for Rise of the Tomb Raider on lowest settings)&#xD;&#xA; - I don't want to spend mroe than 1k€ for the full system (or rather I can't afford T.T), and since I also want an i7 and a good amount of RAM, the GPU itself mustn't be too expensive &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have suggestions for a full system, this would be nice, too, but the question aims to give me a overview of Graphic Cards which would meet my requirements. Afterwards I'll search for a new Notebook with one of these built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just had a quick look into the comparison site suggested by Adrian, an found the GeForce GTX 775M - this would be, from the performance aspect, top notch. I don'T even know how the price range is, and if this is available in non-gaming-notebooks (meaning normal sized cases), but anyway - this performance would be awesome. &lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;For the lower bound I'd name the GeForce GTX 580M - it shouldn't be much less performance than this, else I don't think buying a new notebook is really worth it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1938" RevisionGUID="853ad0fc-ad3f-4a94-8af9-a2e7acbd15e6" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:53:58.793" UserId="1708" Text="I have a great desktop with one big flaw, very few USB ports and one type c port. I just need a hub that lets me access this type c from a more easy to reach location and also want more USB 3 ports. I've been searching online and I've either found $60+ or very cheap looking hubs. Any help?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1938" RevisionGUID="853ad0fc-ad3f-4a94-8af9-a2e7acbd15e6" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:53:58.793" UserId="1708" Text="Cheap durable USB hub with type c" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1938" RevisionGUID="853ad0fc-ad3f-4a94-8af9-a2e7acbd15e6" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:53:58.793" UserId="1708" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1939" RevisionGUID="ba296647-357f-42de-8910-01af5c1f1cae" CreationDate="2016-02-05T09:32:12.803" UserId="1713" Text="As far as hardware compatibility goes, you're fine. The 750 Ti is indeed PCI-E 3.0, and the motherboard in the model you linked supports it. So since the motherboard slot and the GPU are both PCI-E 3.0 x16, the GPU should fit just fine. The dimensions of the card are 6.70&quot; x 4.38&quot; if you'd like to measure for yourself. It's also a dual-slot card, so keep in mind that you won't be able to use the slot below the PCI-E slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Replacing the GPU is extremely simple, and there are tons of YouTube videos on it. There's really no need to get someone to do it for you, unless it's a friend or family member that would do it for free." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1940" RevisionGUID="4e18ef4a-3b1b-4f2f-b0a2-80e47a7e1866" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:21:14.957" UserId="1714" Text="I am sitting here with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Case: Sharkoon REX8 Value Edition Black&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970-UD3&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD FX-8320&#xD;&#xA;- CPU cooler: Thermalright Macho 120&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first ordered my computer, I didn't think too much of upgrading but now I do. I wanted to install additional RAM, however, I noticed that the CPU cooler is too big and is effectively blocking my RAM slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(More specifically, the cooler blocks the first slot. Slot number two, three and four are free so I can place three RAM sticks at a maximum. Nevertheless I want to take advantage of the Dual Channel ability of my motherboard so I want to get 4x4 running and not 2x4 and 1x8.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if the new cooler is small enough to free up my RAM slot and also is suitable to overclock my AMD to 4.0 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Money doesn't pose a problem here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need pictures or additional information, I am more than happy to share some." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1940" RevisionGUID="4e18ef4a-3b1b-4f2f-b0a2-80e47a7e1866" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:21:14.957" UserId="1714" Text="I need a different CPU cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1940" RevisionGUID="4e18ef4a-3b1b-4f2f-b0a2-80e47a7e1866" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:21:14.957" UserId="1714" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1940" RevisionGUID="54784298-52eb-4144-8c6b-a57464bb0b0a" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:40:38.967" UserId="57" Comment="Added product links, mostly for the motherboard and current cooler" Text="I am sitting here with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Case: [Sharkoon REX8 Value Edition Black](https://www.sharkoon.com/product/1678/Rex8Val#desc)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: [Gigabyte GA-970-UD3](http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3907#ov)&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: [AMD FX-8320](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113285)&#xD;&#xA;- CPU cooler: [Thermalright Macho 120](http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/cpu_cooler/macho120.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first ordered my computer, I didn't think too much of upgrading but now I do. I wanted to install additional RAM, however, I noticed that the CPU cooler is too big and is effectively blocking my RAM slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(More specifically, the cooler blocks the first slot. Slot number two, three and four are free so I can place three RAM sticks at a maximum. Nevertheless I want to take advantage of the Dual Channel ability of my motherboard so I want to get 4x4 running and not 2x4 and 1x8.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if the new cooler is small enough to free up my RAM slot and also is suitable to overclock my AMD to 4.0 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Money doesn't pose a problem here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need pictures or additional information, I am more than happy to share some." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1942" RevisionGUID="dd649a02-a7fc-4835-a9d6-494c7b739c66" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:07:40.960" UserId="1715" Text="I recommend the Hyper Evo, it's an amazing fan and should be able to fit. It is $34.99 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suggest the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO][1]. For one the cooler you have is huge for a cooler and actually has a bunch of people worrying about the same problem you have. While, the EVO is not meant to do anything more than keep your CPU cool it is much smaller and pack a punch almost the same amount as the Macho. As well as the mach is doubled the weight of the EVO. As from what I could tell you only need a CPU for cooling and nothing more as that's what EVO will do for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1942" RevisionGUID="fec57365-ce4f-4ded-adc0-6080789f8ede" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:14:36.100" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 109 characters in body" Text="I suggest the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO][1]. For one the cooler you have is huge for a cooler and actually has a bunch of people worrying about the same problem you have. Because the EVO is not meant to do anything more than keep your CPU cool it is much smaller and pack almost the same punch as the Macho. In addition, the Macho is double the weight of the EVO. As far as I could tell you only need a CPU cooler and nothing more, and that's what the EVO will do for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1943" RevisionGUID="b2adee04-1326-40ea-a192-819d2f54d274" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:14:10.983" UserId="1275" Text="I wonder whether tactile tabletop flat square ridge-forming displays exist that would upon receiving input from a computer display the shape of a character or ideogram from an alphabet thus allowing a blind person  to quickly understand the shape of such a character or ideogram (think about the 8,000 or so Chinese ideograms whose shape one could want to quickly learn)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7128" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1943" RevisionGUID="b2adee04-1326-40ea-a192-819d2f54d274" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:14:10.983" UserId="1275" Text="Tactile &quot;ridge-forming&quot; tabletop displays?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1943" RevisionGUID="b2adee04-1326-40ea-a192-819d2f54d274" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:14:10.983" UserId="1275" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;brain-computer-interface&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1944" RevisionGUID="bc6a91ac-b258-42a2-a5b4-fe729e9426e1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T01:10:01.453" UserId="1716" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I have an external battery pack, for my phone. But I just bought a Raspberry Pi, and would like to create a UPS - fairly cheaply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried charging my phone and charging the pack with this one but it stops charging the device when it's receiving power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any that can do this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tnStp.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1944" RevisionGUID="bc6a91ac-b258-42a2-a5b4-fe729e9426e1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T01:10:01.453" UserId="1716" Text="Are there any USB battery packs that can provide power while charging?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1944" RevisionGUID="bc6a91ac-b258-42a2-a5b4-fe729e9426e1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T01:10:01.453" UserId="1716" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1945" RevisionGUID="732fadf4-4894-4cef-881a-63db9fd4c94c" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:50:53.793" UserId="1715" Text="*Short Answer:* Yes there are power banks that can do that. However, the power bank must support the feature and your phone.A famous brand of power banks can support this feature is **Anker** one type can be found on [Amazon][1]. There are cheaper ones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Compact-20000mAh-Portable-Anker-PowerCore/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454733728&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Anker%20Powerbanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Output:* However, this is strongly advised! First, being that you power bank will **exponentially** increase in heat depending on your phone. Second, the power bank will from now on take a double amount of time to charge up than not charging your phone at the same time. Third, depending on your phone it will take even longer to charge your phone even once you go back to an adapter and a outlet in the wall. Choose wisely. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="6a4549c0-18de-4ab9-813c-a72997534e3c" CreationDate="2016-02-06T08:24:19.937" UserId="378" Text="I dropped my Nexus 5 because it was so large, it was perilous to handle with one hand (whenever a notification comes swiping from the top is a pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone with these strong requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Shorter than 12 cm in length, the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run Android 6&#xD;&#xA;- LTE&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16 GB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for a good rear-facing camera. Bonus for open spirit (à la Fairphone, Nexus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plastic is OK. If not commercially available, second-hand is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*([20% similar question][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/small-high-quality-android-phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="6a4549c0-18de-4ab9-813c-a72997534e3c" CreationDate="2016-02-06T08:24:19.937" UserId="378" Text="Small LTE phone, rootable to Android 6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="6a4549c0-18de-4ab9-813c-a72997534e3c" CreationDate="2016-02-06T08:24:19.937" UserId="378" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1943" RevisionGUID="50ed5c38-f179-412f-9e60-b2b8272c5382" CreationDate="2016-02-06T10:11:58.530" UserId="155" Comment="clarified base question; removed irrelevant tag" Text="Is there a tactile tabletop flat square ridge-forming display that would, upon receiving input from a computer, display the shape of a character or ideogram from an alphabet thus allowing a blind person to quickly understand the shape of such a character or ideogram? (Think about the 8,000 or so Chinese ideograms whose shape one could want to quickly learn.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1943" RevisionGUID="50ed5c38-f179-412f-9e60-b2b8272c5382" CreationDate="2016-02-06T10:11:58.530" UserId="155" Comment="clarified base question; removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="5f35d20a-1d55-4ac1-b48d-239d0ce3af29" CreationDate="2016-02-07T09:21:18.717" UserId="1723" Text="I would like to choose a new laptop and then run host OS (Win, Linux) and as many virtual machines as possible (Debian with DE, 384-512MB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Which intel processor is the best for this?** (please write several processor types/models with the approximate number of concurrently running virtuals as well -- so I can choose according to price tag)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. What else is essential for this? (I know as much RAM as possible, fast hdd ideally SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. cores vs threads - what is better: many cores and few threads per core? Or few cores and more threads per core?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my musts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- laptop (so I can easy take it away)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- intel&#xD;&#xA;- P.S. Subquestion - which intel processor for workstation/server?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="5f35d20a-1d55-4ac1-b48d-239d0ce3af29" CreationDate="2016-02-07T09:21:18.717" UserId="1723" Text="the most effective laptop intel processor for virtuals" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="5f35d20a-1d55-4ac1-b48d-239d0ce3af29" CreationDate="2016-02-07T09:21:18.717" UserId="1723" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="202007cd-675f-471e-bd07-f07e942700ee" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:39.790" UserId="1724" Text="Considering that there is only one SATA port and an mSATA port (I think), is there any way to add more storage to the NUC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="202007cd-675f-471e-bd07-f07e942700ee" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:39.790" UserId="1724" Text="Is there any way to add more storage to an Intel NUC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="202007cd-675f-471e-bd07-f07e942700ee" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:39.790" UserId="1724" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="3ee406b3-66f4-4480-81b2-ec5b01d0759a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:48.477" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 373 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I would like to choose a new laptop and then run host OS (Win, Linux) and as many virtual machines as possible (Debian with DE, 384-512MB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which Intel processor is best for this, considering the requirements below?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my musts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel&#xD;&#xA;- can run many VM's&#xD;&#xA;- costs as little as possible&#xD;&#xA;- good threads:cores ratio&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="3ee406b3-66f4-4480-81b2-ec5b01d0759a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:48.477" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 373 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="3ee406b3-66f4-4480-81b2-ec5b01d0759a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:31:48.477" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 373 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Effective laptop intel processor for virtual machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="2fbed46b-d174-48fb-818a-ebe4aff267b0" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:33:38.583" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7160" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="a5e8abe4-3572-4fb4-8e7e-7a6268834d0d" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:38:48.150" UserId="1724" Comment="added 185 characters in body; edited title" Text="Considering that there is only one SATA port and an mSATA port (I think), is there any way to add more storage to the NUC? If not is there another device I can use which offers more storage options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The things I like about the NUC are:&#xD;&#xA;1. The form factor&#xD;&#xA;2. The low power consumption&#xD;&#xA;3. Good CPU power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="a5e8abe4-3572-4fb4-8e7e-7a6268834d0d" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:38:48.150" UserId="1724" Comment="added 185 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is there any way to add more storage to an Intel NUC or is there another device I can use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="bc9e63aa-5cad-4c34-83ef-d55f17e0aa27" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:49:18.810" UserId="1724" Comment="Reworded the question" Text="After some research I am inclined towards using an Intel NUC. But considering that there is only one SATA port and an mSATA port (I think), is there any way to add more storage to the NUC? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not is there another device I can use which offers more storage options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features I like to have are:  &#xD;&#xA;1. Small form factor  &#xD;&#xA;2. The low power consumption  &#xD;&#xA;3. Good CPU power  &#xD;&#xA;4. Support for multiple hard disks  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel NUC qualifies points 1 to 3 above. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="bc9e63aa-5cad-4c34-83ef-d55f17e0aa27" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:49:18.810" UserId="1724" Comment="Reworded the question" Text="Is there a low power consuming device with good CPU to be used as a NAS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="98bd52d1-dd8e-4b3c-a281-3f601fdf2bb2" CreationDate="2016-02-07T11:51:19.240" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="5b7c59f7-7157-458b-a2e5-9c9bf503467c" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:02:45.820" UserId="1724" Comment="Clarified point 4, added a tag" Text="After some research I am inclined towards using an Intel NUC. But considering that there is only one SATA port and an mSATA port (I think), is there any way to add more storage to the NUC? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not is there another device I can use which offers more storage options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features I like to have are:  &#xD;&#xA;1. Small form factor  &#xD;&#xA;2. The low power consumption  &#xD;&#xA;3. Good CPU power  &#xD;&#xA;4. Support for 3 or more hard disks (not looking for RAID but for something like snapRAID or unRAID with sufficient fault tolerance)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel NUC qualifies points 1 to 3 above. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1949" RevisionGUID="5b7c59f7-7157-458b-a2e5-9c9bf503467c" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:02:45.820" UserId="1724" Comment="Clarified point 4, added a tag" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1950" RevisionGUID="cd531c48-1e5d-4db5-954a-363d121814c5" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:06:02.240" UserId="531" Text="Its a bit tricky. There's three elements to your problem and each of this needs to be handled seperately. Data, Power and 'space'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Easiest way? USB 3.0 Hard drives. They are typically fast enough for bulk storage these days, though clearly you arn't going to get blazing fast speeds. A 2.5 inch drive goes up to 2tb, which is pretty impressive data density, and this is the neatest solution. You could also get an enclosure with more drive bays connected over NUC. Newer NUCs would do thunderbolt wihich is even faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the *sane* way to do this. I did once figure out how you could get 3 drives into a NUC tho. This is entirely theoretical and somewhat impractical IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more speed, you can trade your wifi adaptor for more storage - a mini pci-e adaptor can be broken out to [sata][1] for 2 more drives, which takes care of your data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power is tricky - You might be able to split the internal sata power adaptor or get a power brick specially designed for hard drives. Split this and you have power for the hard drives. They are laptop drives so power needs might be low but [something like this][2] should cover it handily&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Space? Intel has an option to 3d print headers. Design a new lid to hold the drives, 3d print it. Hard drives are pretty standardized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, the USB 3.0 HDD option or external drive bays are the way to go, especially since you can turn off unwanted drives as needed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&amp;field-keywords=mini%20pcie%20sata&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hard-Disk-External-Power-Supply-5V-12V-Dual-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable/986180282.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1951" RevisionGUID="503e48e4-57dd-48b2-817c-1aa8a7cbcf7f" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:16:49.177" UserId="531" Text="If you want a non NUC class machine, just go with a mini ITX system. They arn't as *ludicrously* small but they have more expansion capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at [these reviews][1] something like the asrock 3150 or 3700 based boards might be a good fit - up to 4 Sata ports (or even 2 in the alternatives) one mini pcie slot (which might be good for 2 more) and a PCIe slot (which might be good for even more).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Physical size depends on your case and power supply, but this would be a better fit for &quot;I need a ton of hard drives for as little space and power as possible&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Outside of physical form factor, these are fairly similar to nuc class machines and ought to have similar power use. Of course, form factor depends on your case, and such, and this won't be barely the size of a 3.5 inch drive, but you can pick drives as needed for maximum *density*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://linuxgizmos.com/round-up-12-braswell-based-mini-itx-boards/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="56b2521f-c3c1-4b71-ad72-480cbb67dfc8" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:22:05.657" UserId="1725" Text="i am planning to get this laptop: MSI GE62 Apache Pro 15.6 FHD i7-6700HQ 8GB 1TB GTX970M 3GB. The things i'll have to adjust will be RAM and SSD . I Want extra 8GB of Ram ( so 16GB in total) and 128GB of SSD ( So i'll have a hybrid of 1Tb+128GB SSD) . The problem is that i've never did something like this and i have no idea what to buy. I'm afraid of getting something witch is not even compatible with the device, so i'm asking your help. This is where i will buy my SSD : http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?sand=&amp;pav=&amp;sort=&amp;grp=     and this link is for Ram: http://www.skytech.lt/operatyvine-atmintis-nes-komp-atmintis-sodimm-c-86_85_217_216.html?sand=&amp;pav=&amp;sort=&amp;grp=    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for any type of help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="56b2521f-c3c1-4b71-ad72-480cbb67dfc8" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:22:05.657" UserId="1725" Text="RAM and SSD for MSI GE62 APACHE PRO?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="56b2521f-c3c1-4b71-ad72-480cbb67dfc8" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:22:05.657" UserId="1725" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1950" RevisionGUID="31728315-2fd4-4e99-be17-6418f07f15c7" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:27:47.053" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="Its a bit tricky. There's three elements to your problem and each of this needs to be handled seperately. Data, Power and 'space'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Easiest way? USB 3.0 Hard drives. They are typically fast enough for bulk storage these days, though clearly you arn't going to get blazing fast speeds. A 2.5 inch drive goes up to 2tb, which is pretty impressive data density, and this is the neatest solution. You could also get an enclosure with more drive bays connected over NUC. Newer NUCs would do thunderbolt wihich is even faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the *sane* way to do this. I did once figure out how you could get 3 drives into a NUC tho. This is entirely theoretical and somewhat impractical IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more speed, you can trade your wifi adaptor for more storage - a mini pci-e adaptor can be broken out to [sata][1] for 2 more drives, which takes care of your data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power is tricky - You might be able to split the internal sata power adaptor or get a power brick specially designed for hard drives. Split this and you have power for the hard drives. They are laptop drives so power needs might be low but [something like this][2] should cover it handily&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Space? Intel has an option to 3d print lids. Design a new lid to hold the drives, 3d print it. Hard drives are pretty standardized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, the USB 3.0 HDD option or external drive bays are the way to go, especially since you can turn off unwanted drives as needed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&amp;field-keywords=mini%20pcie%20sata&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hard-Disk-External-Power-Supply-5V-12V-Dual-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable/986180282.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7174" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="676600f8-9075-41cd-ab3c-3b897ee36131" CreationDate="2016-02-07T16:46:09.747" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7175" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="f63e5e9e-e841-42d7-9cb8-f4cefc34de4c" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:39:23.643" UserId="1725" Comment="added 45 characters in body; edited title" Text="i am planning to get this laptop: MSI GE62 Apache Pro 15.6 FHD i7-6700HQ 8GB 1TB GTX970M 3GB. The things i'll have to adjust will be RAM and SSD . I Want extra 8GB of Ram ( so 16GB in total) and 128GB of SSD ( So i'll have a hybrid of 1Tb+128GB SSD) . The problem is that i've never did something like this and i have no idea what to buy. I'm afraid of getting something witch is not even compatible with the device, so i'm asking your help. This is where i will buy my SSD : http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?sand=&amp;pav=&amp;sort=&amp;grp=     and this link is for Ram: http://www.skytech.lt/operatyvine-atmintis-nes-komp-atmintis-sodimm-c-86_85_217_216.html?sand=&amp;pav=&amp;sort=&amp;grp=    Please help me on deciding which one to buy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for any type of help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="f63e5e9e-e841-42d7-9cb8-f4cefc34de4c" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:39:23.643" UserId="1725" Comment="added 45 characters in body; edited title" Text="Additional RAM and SSD for MSI GE62 APACHE PRO?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1954" RevisionGUID="0b3b0c2e-5682-4bea-b3d4-7c7087e550a5" CreationDate="2016-02-07T18:33:55.990" UserId="1731" Text="I am looking for a router whose **built in firmware** can ensure QoS such that if one user is say downloading torrents (completely hogging up the bandwidth) it will slow his speed down to the point that others' ping will stay low. This is to ensure that if someone is playing an online game (where RTT is essential), to them it will be as if nothing has happened as their ping will not shoot up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do note that I **do not** want any per application/port setup as there are many ways to hog the bandwidth (not just torrents) and there are many games as well and it will get arduous to configure each thing separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This functionality definitely exists in an [open source router firmware called Gargoyle][1] (the feature is called MinimizeRTT). I am using this currently and it works like a charm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My real reason for asking this question is that there must be at least one big router company that thought that this would be a good idea, especially when working code is available openly by Gargoyle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question is for a router that supports this **out of the box** (buying one with pre-installed custom firmware doesn't count!). Can anyone point me to a router that has this functionality without needing to install custom firmware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gargoyle-router.com/wiki/doku.php?id=qos" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1954" RevisionGUID="0b3b0c2e-5682-4bea-b3d4-7c7087e550a5" CreationDate="2016-02-07T18:33:55.990" UserId="1731" Text="Router that supports ping based QoS out of the box" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1954" RevisionGUID="0b3b0c2e-5682-4bea-b3d4-7c7087e550a5" CreationDate="2016-02-07T18:33:55.990" UserId="1731" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="be3408e0-a932-49f8-b568-8b31edfd978a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:15:48.973" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited. (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.) Removed historical information (e.g. ref. &lt;http://meta.stackexchange.com/a/230693&gt;)." Text="Well, based on your preferences, I would definitely recommend [OnePlus 2][1]. One of my friends bought it, and it's really awesome with the best features and at a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 13 MP with dual flash and of course laser-focused&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB LPDDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Adreno 430 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - Octacore CPU, good for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comes at **€ 399**. The only exception is you need to *Buy with an invite*. People can't just walk to the store and get one, so to buy/place an order, someone must send you an invite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Who is that someone? - usually, the OnePlus team will send an invite to a few people and they can pass the stick to others, and this continues. To get a better understanding of the invite, visit the link [Invite System][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://oneplus.net/2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/the-oneplus-invite-system-updated-may-9.1150/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="be3408e0-a932-49f8-b568-8b31edfd978a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:15:48.973" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 8 edit id of 378" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="104" RevisionGUID="8df11c66-8882-4861-9f4a-d5210fce747e" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:16:35.913" UserId="1729" Comment="Removed historical information (e.g. ref. &lt;http://meta.stackexchange.com/a/230693&gt;, &lt;http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/266164&gt;, and &lt;http://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/127639&gt;). Copy edited." Text="In my experience (new mechanical user):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Advantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Key Rollover - Mechanical keyboards should support NKRO (infinite simultaneous key presses) over PS/2 and 6KRO (six simultaneous key presses not including four modifiers like &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;, etc., so 10 simultaneous) over USB*. Being able to press this many keys means the only limit to your typing speed is your fingers, not the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; - Repair/Customisation - Keycaps are easy to remove so you can move them around (mine is Colemak. I've also heard good things about Workman). Also this means replacing keys and cleaning are a lot easier than on many non-mechanicals.&#xD;&#xA; - Build quality - As a premium product the build quality and reliability is very high. As an example the standard [Cherry MX switches][1] can withstand 50 million key presses compared to 5-10 from rubber dome keys.&#xD;&#xA; - Feel - There is something nice about the key presses of a mechanical keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Specifically a limitation of the USB protocol. This may be manufacturer specific, but I'm not sure. If anyone knows, comment below!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Aesthetics**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For many people the aesthetics are important. If you spend a lot of money on something you often want it too look good. With my keyboard free custom keycaps and printing were included so mine looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![We do what we must because we can][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Disadvantages**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost is significantly higher than a normal keyboard (mine was US$200 approximately).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cherrycorp.com/product/mx-series/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uH4Bb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="104" RevisionGUID="8df11c66-8882-4861-9f4a-d5210fce747e" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:16:35.913" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 8 edit id of 380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="f9b63c1a-be16-4b0b-8b3f-e9ee45f73c2a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:16:51.520" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/that's#Contraction&gt; and &lt;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/because&gt;). (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.) Dressed the naked link." Text="I personally ordered the OnePlus Two, but to be honest I would go for the ASUS Zenfone 2 (version: ZE551ML, that's important!) if you can live with some bloatware (not that much) because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It costs **300-350€/211-255£** and [it's sold on Amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA; - It has **4 GB RAM**. That's plenty of RAM for gaming&#xD;&#xA; - The processor (Intel Atom Z3580) is **quad-core** clocked at **2.3&amp;nbsp;GHz** and it seems to have no/less heating issues than the Snapdragon 810 (e.g. used in the OnePlus 2)&#xD;&#xA; - It's a **5.5&quot;** phone with a **1080p/Full-HD** resolution, so it fits in your pocket and offers **401ppi**&#xD;&#xA; - It has a **13&amp;nbsp;MP** rear camera (with dual-tone flash, autofocus, HDR) and a **5MP** front facing camera and both do their job; compare it here: http://www.gsmarena.com/piccmp.php3?idType=1&amp;idPhone1=6917&amp;idPhone2=7247&amp;idPhone3=6902). But it can only record videos in 1080p @ 30&amp;nbsp;fps&#xD;&#xA; - According to Gsmarena it can create **hotspots**&#xD;&#xA; - It can be ordered with **16/32/64&amp;nbsp;GB** internal storage and you can add up to an **extra 64&amp;nbsp;GB with a microSD** card&#xD;&#xA; - It has a **3000 mAh** battery combined with the fact that it's no QHD resolution it should should be plenty of battery life, so you'll most likely get through the day without recharging.&#xD;&#xA; - Some nice extras are **FM radio** with RDS, **fast charging** (60% in 40&amp;nbsp;mins according to Asus) and **Corning Gorilla Glass 3** for the protection&#xD;&#xA; - Runs [Android 5.0][2] (Lollipop) with Asus ZenUi on top (some bloatware preinstalled but not much, and I think you'll be able to uninstall most of it)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports many carriers, but you should check at http://www.willmyphonework.net/ if it supports your carrier. I'll assume you come from the UK so the global/international version will most likely be the one that works&#xD;&#xA; - Full specification sheet: http://www.gsmarena.com/asus_zenfone_2_ze551ml-6917.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:**&#xD;&#xA;So a great phone for a low price tag, and you can buy it quick and easy unlocked on Amazon. Some more expensive phones maybe offer a fingerprint scanner or QHD or wireless charging, but they are not on your criteria list and are just some extras that sometimes even come with a disadvantage (e.g. QHD-&gt; higher resolution, but it drains more battery and needs a better GPU then a FullHD screen for the same gaming power)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;Some other phones that you can look at too are the OnePlus Two and the upcoming Nexus 5x. Some will suggest the Moto X Style/Pure because it can be compared to the OP2 or Zenfone 2 specification-wise and cost around the same as the OP2 (both around 400€) in the US, but in Germany (most likely in the UK too) the Moto X Style/Pure costs around 600€ and the lower specificatied Moto X Play costs 400€ here. So I would neither recommend any of the Moto X phones nor the OnePlus 2 because it's hard to get (invite system), has some problems and nobody knows when they'll release updates for it and also no [NFC][3] if you need that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**And just one general thing: Watch/read a few reviews by yourself before buying the phone you want, because they include some more information that might be interesting or deal breaking, but aren't mentioned here!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_Lollipop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_field_communication&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="108" RevisionGUID="f9b63c1a-be16-4b0b-8b3f-e9ee45f73c2a" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:16:51.520" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 8 edit id of 379" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="2102810f-aaba-4372-b615-7d7c641bebbb" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:02:36.323" UserId="1725" Comment="deleted 221 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am planning to get this laptop: MSI GE62 Apache Pro 15.6 FHD i7-6700HQ 8GB 1TB GTX970M 3GB. I Want to get extra 128GB of SSD ( So i'll have a hybrid of 1Tb+128GB SSD) . The problem is that i've never did something like this and i have no idea what to buy. I'm afraid of getting something witch is not even compatible with the device, so i'm asking your help. This is where i will buy my SSD : http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?sand=&amp;pav=&amp;sort=&amp;grp= &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help me on deciding which one to buy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for any type of help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="2102810f-aaba-4372-b615-7d7c641bebbb" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:02:36.323" UserId="1725" Comment="deleted 221 characters in body; edited title" Text="Additional SSD for MSI GE62 APACHE PRO?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="7ed317e1-926f-4793-b3c9-4acad07c9ef3" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:22:19.953" UserId="1723" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I would like to choose a new laptop and then run host OS (Win, Linux) and as many virtual machines as possible (Debian with DE, 384-512MB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which Intel processor is best for this, considering the requirements below?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my musts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel&#xD;&#xA;- can run many VM's (10 or 20)&#xD;&#xA;- costs as little as possible&#xD;&#xA;- good threads:cores ratio&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="e7f8a359-410b-469c-ba86-cdcd33f33db8" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:35:32.953" UserId="8" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="I am planning to get the MSI GE62 Apache Pro 15.6 FHD i7-6700HQ 8GB 1TB GTX970M 3GB laptop. I also want to get an extra 128GB of SSD (so I'll have a hybrid of 1TB HDD + 128GB SSD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that I've never done something like this and I have no idea what to buy. I'm afraid of getting something which is not even compatible with the device, so I'm asking for your help. [This is where I will buy my SSD.](http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must be compatible with the laptop specified&#xD;&#xA;- Available in, or shippable to, Lithuania&#xD;&#xA;- 128 GB or more (preferably without paying any more, obviously). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help me on deciding which one to buy. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1952" RevisionGUID="7415cc93-11d4-40d2-a100-1aec087da354" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:36:03.387" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7199" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1956" RevisionGUID="6776e559-3171-4e0a-bbae-f0cc5f49b13d" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:43:47.343" UserId="1732" Text="My go-to is the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite (ERL). The kind of features you're looking for aren't often in consumer routers, though if I had to bet I would figure Asus would be the best place to start. Asus's latest line of routers run a proprietary version of DD-WRT, which ASUS has incorporated their own drivers into and such. Many other CFWs for routers have much better implementations (Toastman's Tomato/TomatoUSB builds, for one), I have to imagine some consumer routers support some types of very basic QoS, and aren't very configurable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The point of saying this is that real QoS, or the newer Traffic Shaping Policies (a subset of QoS that's not just rate limiting for specific services) is really going to be robustly included in higher end routers. Traffic shaping is more what you're looking for, because where QoS usually has hard limits for particular services or devices, traffic shaping can allow all unused bandwidth to go to lowest priority queues. Then, when a higher priority queue begins taking traffic, the bandwidth is dynamically reallocated to the expected (defined) values. If Ping is specifically very important to you, you'd add port 23 to a high priority queue, for instance. Luckily, routers the the ERL and ERX are on the market with a very disruptive cost. They run a form of Vyatta, which is highly configurable and true enterprise class. The Ubiquiti support forums are a great place to start if you run into any issues, but the latest version of EdgeOS support Smart Queues through the GUI, so I imagine you'll have an easy time getting exactly what you'd like. If you feel you need to make tweaks or change the queue type, that can be done through the command line to the full extent as is supported in Vyatta.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the release notes for the current firmware, and these include directions for setting up a basic smart queue (which is all you'd really need): http://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX-Updates-Blog/EdgeMAX-EdgeRouter-software-release-v1-7-0/ba-p/1287631&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the product page, when the ERL and ERX can be found: https://www.ubnt.com/products/#all/routing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1956" RevisionGUID="27b6fd26-7dd2-4257-b57e-6fb46a3136f8" CreationDate="2016-02-07T21:59:50.283" UserId="1732" Comment="Add additional information " Text="My go-to is the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite (ERL). The kind of features you're looking for aren't often in consumer routers, though if I had to bet I would figure Asus would be the best place to start. Asus's latest line of routers run a proprietary version of DD-WRT, which ASUS has incorporated their own drivers into and such. Many other CFWs for routers have much better implementations (Toastman's Tomato/TomatoUSB builds, for one), I have to imagine some consumer routers support some types of very basic QoS, and aren't very configurable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The point of saying this is that real QoS, or the newer Traffic Shaping Policies (a subset of QoS that's not just rate limiting for specific services) is really going to be robustly included in higher end routers. Traffic shaping is more what you're looking for, because where QoS usually has hard limits for particular services or devices, traffic shaping can allow all unused bandwidth to go to lowest priority queues. Then, when a higher priority queue begins taking traffic, the bandwidth is dynamically reallocated to the expected (defined) values. If Ping is specifically very important to you, you'd add port 23 to a high priority queue, for instance. Luckily, routers the the ERL and ERX are on the market with a very disruptive cost. They run a form of Vyatta, which is highly configurable and true enterprise class. The Ubiquiti support forums are a great place to start if you run into any issues, but the latest version of EdgeOS support Smart Queues through the GUI, so I imagine you'll have an easy time getting exactly what you'd like. If you feel you need to make tweaks or change the queue type, that can be done through the command line to the full extent as is supported in Vyatta.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the release notes for the current firmware, and these include directions for setting up a basic smart queue (which is proabbly all you'd really need): http://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX-Updates-Blog/EdgeMAX-EdgeRouter-software-release-v1-7-0/ba-p/1287631&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the product page, when the ERL and ERX can be found: https://www.ubnt.com/products/#all/routing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** I forgot to mention above that traffic shaping can still have reserved bandwidth for certain services which allows instant allocation of bandwidth to that queue. It's important to note that Eric does this in Gargoyle by default when optimizing for RTT. That is to say that MinRTT is a preconfigured set of QoS rules that are optimized to reserving bandwidth to reduce RTT (30%-50%, from what I understand of the Wiki): http://www.gargoyle-router.com/wiki/doku.php?id=qos The reason it's important to note this is to understand that MinRTT isn't an &quot;application&quot; or &quot;mode of operation&quot; for these devices that is missing or has an equivalent elsewhere. There's no black magic or crazy behind the scene action, it's really just QoS implemented for a specific purpose. Any robust QoS implementation can achieve the same results, meaning that you just need a decent QoS toolkit on a router to achieve the desired result. ERLs provide that toolset, and you may have to experiment and create threads (https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/bd-p/EdgeMAX) to achieve the desired result." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1958" RevisionGUID="78293694-b1ad-4a1d-a79b-733e249d6498" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:12:41.923" UserId="1732" Text="The issue with your question is there's no allusion or reference to compute requirements. This puts some of your requirements at odds with each other. Observe:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel® Core™ i7-6920HQ Processor (6th Generation)&#xD;&#xA;* Base Freq. 2.9 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;* 4 Cores, 8 Threads&#xD;&#xA;* 8M Cache&#xD;&#xA;* MSRP: $568&#xD;&#xA;* [ARK Link][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel® Core™ i3-6100H Processor (6th Generation)&#xD;&#xA;* Base Freq. 2.7 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;* 2 Cores, 4 Threads&#xD;&#xA;* 3M Cache&#xD;&#xA;* MSRP: $225&#xD;&#xA;* [ARK Link][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the first processor is one of the best mobile processors available right now. It's also over twice as expensive as one of the lowest end current generation processors. The low end processor may meet your needs if each VM is not doing anything, or if the load is primarily on one or two VMs at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, what may be better for you is recomendations for what to look for, and you can adjust what you get based on your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What to look for in a CPU for virtualization ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Virtualization Technologies Support&#xD;&#xA;* **Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d):** I believe you'd have to go very low end to find a processor that didn't support VT-d, but check to make sure you have it. These technologies (along with VT-x) greatly enhance VM performance by reducing the arbitration between the VM and the actual processor.&#xD;&#xA;* **Cores vs. Threads:** Hyperthreading is great, but it is not another core. *GENERALLY:* [i3][2] processors have 2 cores and HT enabled. [i5's][3] have 4 cores without hyperthreading. [i7's][4] have 4 cores with hyperthreading. ((Not a hard and fast rule, follow the links to the 6th Gen list of each device to see what I mean)) More cores is better than fewer when looking at actual compute power, but hyperthreading is a great way to get a little additional bang for your buck. Consider your expected load (including a potential load on the host) when picking a number of cores.&#xD;&#xA;* **Speed vs. Cores:** I always break this out into speed vs. cores, because I think the generally referenced *low GHz vs. high GHz* is too obvious and a bit dated. So many applications are multithreaded these days that having more cores is almost always better than fewer, higher speed cores. This is especially true of running many VMs, where each virtualized processor can be considered an application thread (for the sake of simplicity). If you have a choice between fewer cores at a higher speed, and more cores at a lower speed, get additional cores.&#xD;&#xA;* **Cache Size:** All these VMs are going to be sharing a processor cache. Even though the i7 above only has twice as many cores as the i3, it's Cache is 2M larger than twice that of the i3. That *will* make a big difference in your expected performance of these VMs. All the quad-core i5's have 6M cache, for your reference, so that's another cost you have to decide if you're willing to absorb or not. This will help the VM's to feel less sluggish, with more cache shared among the VMs, the likelihood of having a cache hit (where the information a VM is looking for in cache is there) goes up drastically. If the information isn't there, it has to go to memory, or worse, to storage for the info. Which brings to to my final point...&#xD;&#xA;* **Bus Speed:** Most processors of the same generation will have similar bus speeds, but don't neglect to check. If you're going to get RAM that is fast, you need to make sure your processor supports the speeds advertised by the RAM, and that your FSB doesn't become saturated (by having a higher DMI3 speed, there's more headroom on the bus for the processor to get the information it needs from RAM, or elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's about all I can do for you. I understand the scope of HR limits the question range, but I should like to offer a few other tips for VM performance that can help keep costs low while boosting performance considerably:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lots of RAM, even if it's a bit slower:** Having a lot of RAM is better than having less, super fast RAM for VMs. The issue here is we want to keep as much as we can in as fast a medium as possible. More RAM accomplishes this, and prevents the system from having to go to storage for information.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Get an SSD for your OS Cache:** Called the page file in Windows, this little area is &quot;virtual memory&quot; that the OS uses for things that it thinks doesn't belong in RAM, but still wants to keep in &quot;memory&quot;. Having a caster system cache will make a huge difference, and a 60 GB SSD to dedicate to this task will pay out dividends in performance. This is why most high performance NAS devices as SSD Backed for read and write caches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88972/Intel-Core-i7-6920HQ-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88394/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i3-Processors#@Mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88393/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i5-Processors#@Mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88392/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i7-Processors#@Mobile" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1948" RevisionGUID="98936a2a-6458-4def-8386-10b2eccdbc87" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:43:43.573" UserId="1723" Comment="updated parameters" Text="I would like to choose a new laptop and then run host OS (Win, Linux) and as many virtual machines as possible (Debian with DE, 384-512MB, for simple users, just to log in and check their emails via web browser).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found these Intel processors and would like to know which one is the best for my need (how many VMs can I run on these processors)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-5200U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6200U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7-5500U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7-6500U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my musts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel&#xD;&#xA;- can run many VM's (10 or 20)&#xD;&#xA;- costs as little as possible&#xD;&#xA;- good threads:cores ratio&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1959" RevisionGUID="b03d2e91-9a46-4cce-aa73-e817df6de494" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:47:16.557" UserId="1736" Text="Have a look at [**SimpleNAS Pro**](http://simplenas.com). It is based on Banana Pi, costs under $100, has a SATA controller and it allows 2 HDD in RAID0/1 configuration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1960" RevisionGUID="7933e2f9-2146-4be5-96b4-0ca449fae7fb" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:51:37.800" UserId="1736" Text="Theoretically, you can use a [SATA port multiplier](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_multiplier) Intel NUC. Another option is a dirt cheap [**SimpleNAS Pro**](http://simplenas.com), which is based on Banana Pi and allows 2 HDDs in RAID0/1 configuration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1962" RevisionGUID="89a1e5be-2be7-409b-bbf6-2b1006a78b59" CreationDate="2016-02-08T01:16:12.090" UserId="1736" Text="**[Intel Galileo Gen 2][1]** costs ~$80, has Ethernet and USB, runs Yocto Linux (or Debian) and has 8MB Flash memory and 8kb EEPROM memory built in, where you can store your encrypted data. It is not bullet-proof, but still more secure than Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/embedded/products/galileo/galileo-overview.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="b9341be9-8a6c-49c4-afe0-6c47b7490307" CreationDate="2016-02-08T01:33:09.070" UserId="1736" Text="I want to gather data from multiple sensors, make simple operations on them (like store last samples in a buffer, calculate moving average, etc.) and send them to the IoT cloud using WiFi. Which MCU should I use for this purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The constraints are: price (cheaper than $20), size (smaller than Arduino Uno), storage (more than 1kB non-volatile memory), interfaces (I2C, serial, WiFi), computing power (supporting TCP/IP stack, ideally with TLS), security (some kind of encryption)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7213" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="b9341be9-8a6c-49c4-afe0-6c47b7490307" CreationDate="2016-02-08T01:33:09.070" UserId="1736" Text="Which cheap microcontroller with Wi-Fi to choose for IoT endpoint devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="b9341be9-8a6c-49c4-afe0-6c47b7490307" CreationDate="2016-02-08T01:33:09.070" UserId="1736" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1964" RevisionGUID="1cb33e95-61f0-43b5-9a49-70f56cb67419" CreationDate="2016-02-08T02:18:03.933" UserId="1736" Text="One option is [**Particle** (f.k.a. **Spark**) **Photon**][1] - STM32F205 ARM Cortex M3 microcontroller with Broadcom BCM43362 Wi-Fi module, 1MB flash, 128KB RAM for $19.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second option is [**WiFiMCU**](http://www.wifimcu.com/) - STM32F411CE ARM Cortex M4 microcontroller with Broadcom  Wi-Fi module, 2MB SPI flash, 512KB on-chip flash, 128KB RAM for $10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is a much cheaper **[NodeMCU][3]** - ESP8266 microcontroller with 64 KB SRAM, 96KB DRAM, 4MB flash for $4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last option is [**SparkFun ESP8266 Thing**][2] - also based on ESP8266 with On-board LiPo battery charger for $16.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of MCUs support full TCP/IP stack and partial SSL. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.particle.io/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13231&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://nodemcu.com/index_en.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="0454fab2-0b51-462c-b3e5-376b2694b745" CreationDate="2016-02-08T02:20:06.697" UserId="1736" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I want to gather data from multiple sensors, make simple operations on them (like store last samples in a buffer, calculate moving average, etc.) and send them to the Internet of Things cloud using WiFi. Which MCU should I use for this purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The constraints are: price (cheaper than $25), size (smaller than Arduino Uno), storage (more than 1kB non-volatile memory), interfaces (I2C, serial, WiFi), computing power (supporting TCP/IP stack, ideally with TLS), security (some kind of encryption)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="9694a6f9-0400-45b3-a58e-63292a4bebe1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T05:28:09.853" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting; removed irrelevant tag" Text="I want to gather data from multiple sensors, make simple operations on them (like store last samples in a buffer, calculate moving average, etc.) and send them to the Internet of Things cloud using WiFi. Which MCU should I use for this purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Constraints:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cost: cheaper than $25&#xD;&#xA;- Size: smaller than the [Arduino Uno][1]&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: more than 1KB non-volatile memory&#xD;&#xA;- Interfaces: I2C, serial, WiFi&#xD;&#xA;- Computing power: supports TCP/IP stack, ideally with TLS&#xD;&#xA;- Security: some kind of encryption&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7218" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1963" RevisionGUID="9694a6f9-0400-45b3-a58e-63292a4bebe1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T05:28:09.853" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting; removed irrelevant tag" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1958" RevisionGUID="40346aec-bb63-4edd-9b48-7f72bccab379" CreationDate="2016-02-08T06:40:44.920" UserId="1732" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text="The issue with your question is there's no allusion or reference to compute requirements. This puts some of your requirements at odds with each other. Observe:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel® Core™ i7-6920HQ Processor (6th Generation)&#xD;&#xA;* Base Freq. 2.9 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;* 4 Cores, 8 Threads&#xD;&#xA;* 8M Cache&#xD;&#xA;* MSRP: $568&#xD;&#xA;* [ARK Link][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel® Core™ i3-6100H Processor (6th Generation)&#xD;&#xA;* Base Freq. 2.7 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;* 2 Cores, 4 Threads&#xD;&#xA;* 3M Cache&#xD;&#xA;* MSRP: $225&#xD;&#xA;* [ARK Link][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the first processor is one of the best mobile processors available right now. It's also over twice as expensive as one of the lowest end current generation processors. The low end processor may meet your needs if each VM is not doing anything, or if the load is primarily on one or two VMs at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, what may be better for you is recomendations for what to look for, and you can adjust what you get based on your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What to look for in a CPU for virtualization ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Virtualization Technologies Support&#xD;&#xA;* **Intel® Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d):** I believe you'd have to go very low end to find a processor that didn't support VT-d, but check to make sure you have it. These technologies (along with VT-x) greatly enhance VM performance by reducing the arbitration between the VM and the actual processor.&#xD;&#xA;* **Cores vs. Threads:** Hyperthreading is great, but it is not another core. *GENERALLY:* [i3][2] processors have 2 cores and HT enabled. [i5's][3] have 4 cores without hyperthreading. [i7's][4] have 4 cores with hyperthreading. ((Not a hard and fast rule, follow the links to the 6th Gen list of each device to see what I mean)) More cores is better than fewer when looking at actual compute power, but hyperthreading is a great way to get a little additional bang for your buck. Consider your expected load (including a potential load on the host) when picking a core count.&#xD;&#xA;* **Speed vs. Cores:** I always break this out into speed vs. cores, because I think the generally referenced *low GHz vs. high GHz* is too obvious and a bit dated. So many applications are multithreaded these days that having more cores is almost always better than fewer high-speed cores. This is especially true of running many VMs, where each virtualized processor can be considered an application thread (for the sake of simplicity). If you have a choice between fewer cores at a higher speed, and more cores at a lower speed, get additional cores.&#xD;&#xA;* **Cache Size:** All these VMs are going to be sharing a processor cache. Even though the i7 above only has twice as many cores as the i3, it's Cache is 2M larger than twice that of the i3. That *will* make a big difference in your expected performance of these VMs. All the quad-core i5's have 6M cache, for your reference, so that's another cost you have to decide if you're willing to absorb or not. This will help the VM's to feel less sluggish; with more cache shared among the VMs, the likelihood of having a cache hit (where the information a VM is looking for is in cache) goes up drastically. If the information isn't there, it has to go to memory, or worse, to storage for the info. Which brings to to my final point...&#xD;&#xA;* **Bus Speed:** Most processors of the same generation will have similar bus speeds, but don't neglect to check. If you're going to get RAM that is fast, you need to make sure your processor supports the speeds advertised by the RAM, and that your FSB doesn't become saturated. By having a higher DMI3 speed, there's more headroom on the bus for the processor to get the information it needs from RAM, or elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's about all I can do for you. I understand the scope of HR limits the question range, but I should like to offer a few other tips for VM performance that can help keep costs low while boosting performance considerably (keeping it within range of the more general question you're asking, 'What can I do with hardware to ensure my VMs perform well'):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lots of RAM, even if it's a bit slower:** Having a lot of RAM is better than having less, super fast RAM for VMs. The issue here is we want to keep as much as we can in as fast a medium as possible. More RAM accomplishes this, and prevents the system from having to go to storage for information.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Get an SSD for your OS Cache:** Called the page file in Windows, this little area is &quot;virtual memory&quot; that the OS uses for things that it thinks don't belong in RAM, but still wants to keep in &quot;memory&quot;. Having a faster system cache (by comparison to HDD) will make a huge difference. A 60 GB SSD dedicate to this task will pay out dividends in performance. This is why most high performance NAS devices have SSD backed read and write caches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88972/Intel-Core-i7-6920HQ-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88394/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i3-Processors#@Mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88393/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i5-Processors#@Mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/88392/6th-Generation-Intel-Core-i7-Processors#@Mobile" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="d80eb2d7-9d8e-4026-ac1c-1be8c7e569ef" CreationDate="2016-02-08T14:32:34.587" UserId="378" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I dropped my Nexus 5 because it was so large, it was perilous to handle with one hand (whenever a notification comes, swiping from the top is a pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone with these strong requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Shorter than 12 cm in length, the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run Android 6&#xD;&#xA;- LTE&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16 GB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for a good rear-facing camera. Bonus for open spirit (à la Fairphone, Nexus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plastic is OK. If not commercially available, second-hand is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*([20% similar question][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/small-high-quality-android-phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1968" RevisionGUID="6942cc8f-43ec-4425-99f1-8929c42e6409" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:16:27.927" UserId="1734" Text="My motherboard is a [945GCT-M2/1333 (V1.0A)][1]. It only has one PCI-E slot and integrated Intel® Graphics (GMA950) (it's bad, but in no way I want worse). The CPU is Intel® Celeron E1200 and the PC has 2GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got two VGA monitors, one is currently hooked up to the PC, but I also wish to use the second one. But I could get a used DVI monitor, but that would probably cost me a bit too much in addition to the graphics card so I'd seriously rather not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically any video card that can handle two monitors at 1280x1024 and won't bottleneck the system overall would do. But it has to work under Ubuntu 15.10 64bit properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I'll repeat** for clarity that there are two **VGA** displays, the motherboard only supports PCI Express **x16 v1.1**, it can not be a downgrade and it has to be supported well under Ubuntu 15.10. That means only a small range of cards is left.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?CategoryID=1&amp;DetailID=827&amp;DetailName=Feature&amp;MenuID=1&amp;LanID=0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1968" RevisionGUID="6942cc8f-43ec-4425-99f1-8929c42e6409" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:16:27.927" UserId="1734" Text="Video card for dual-monitor setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1968" RevisionGUID="6942cc8f-43ec-4425-99f1-8929c42e6409" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:16:27.927" UserId="1734" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="13f7d847-7a73-4af1-926a-0dfa17cce90b" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:34:09.977" UserId="1734" Text="You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. Else look at monitors for blind people, but most only have braille and they're expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1970" RevisionGUID="3ff04b5e-911e-41dc-a253-7e25191faa0e" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:00:50.633" UserId="241" Text="Since your main concerns are &quot;not a downgrade from a GMA950&quot; and &quot;dual VGA support&quot;, I recommend a [VisionTek Radeon 7000][1], $36 from Newegg.  It's an absolutely ancient card (released 15 years ago), but the [Tom's Hardware hierarchy][2] puts it on the same performance tier as the nearly-as-ancient GMA950.  It's got one VGA output and one DVI output with a DVI-to-VGA adapter, it uses one of your board's PCI slots rather than a PCIe slot, and it's [well-supported by the open-source ATI drivers][3] (R100 column).  I haven't found a solid source for maximum resolution, but it appears to be [at least 1600x1200][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you can find one, I recommend a GeForce 5200, again with a PCI interface.  One VGA and one DVI-I is common, it's somewhat more powerful than either the Radeon 7000 or the GMA950, and it's got [decent support by the open-source drivers][5].  If you really want to use your PCIe slot, a few 5200 boards used an AGP-to-PCIe adapter chip to give them a PCIe interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814129188&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.x.org/wiki/RadeonFeature/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.anandtech.com/show/536/7&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://nouveau.freedesktop.org/wiki/FeatureMatrix/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="a32a1211-51c7-4949-bff0-74fa8deeb831" CreationDate="2016-02-08T21:44:33.823" UserId="1734" Comment="Added text about inFORM" Text="You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. Else look at monitors for blind people, but most only have braille and they're expensive. Or if you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1971" RevisionGUID="3094ee88-f7fe-4195-94e9-a9d99574f5a6" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:19:34.150" UserId="1744" Text="Consider using the [Enermax Ostrog][1]. Although it does not meet the USB Type-C requirement (Which I honestly doubt that any case under $60 would have at this point), it does fufil your other requirements. I have personally used this case in the past, and I can say that it does indeed work well. On a side note, the side panel is essentially one huge window; which means weekly cleaning (At least I did). Great case that can be had at Frys for $44&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.frys.com/product/7363704?source=google&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiAluG1BRDrvsqCtYWk81gSJACZ2BCeaRAUnwCiRX7om1JQGVzz4pRwBM6XmqjedXMTl4AXpBoCzi3w_wcB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1972" RevisionGUID="a67a3e3f-f6c7-49af-be2c-5d6e39bd456a" CreationDate="2016-02-09T08:37:25.260" UserId="630" Text="[GE62 6QF Apache Pro][1]&#xD;&#xA;-------------------&#xD;&#xA;You have multiple options in my opinion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. See if your shop offers this Laptop with a SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;This would be the easiest option for you probably &#xD;&#xA; 2. Get a **M.2 SSD** - your laptop supports the new M.2 SSD's which are even faster than the regular SSD's. If a normal user really needs this is questionable but having the option is nice. It is more expensive though.  &#xD;&#xA;If you want to get a M.2 SSD [**you can get it here**][2]. Any of these should work -  pick one which suits your budget and read some reviews when you have doubts.  &#xD;&#xA;You would have to add this to your laptop yourself but there are [**some How-To's on Youtube**][3].  &#xD;&#xA;I have made some good experiences with the **Crucial** and **Intel SSD's** - they were reliable and deliver a great performance. &#xD;&#xA; 3. Get a [**regular SSD**][4]. Your Laptop has a built-in DVD-drive - if you are not intending to use it that much you could swap it out and replace it with a SSD. If you plan on doing that you would have to get yourself a SSD and a [**SSD/HDD Cage**][5]. Then you would have to replace your HDD-drive with this cage which houses your SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it depends on which road you want to take. You can't go really wrong with many of these. My Suggestion would be a **Intel 535 M.2 SSD.** But if you want to replace your DVD-Drive with a SSD then I'd probably go for the **Crucial MX200 or BX100**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I hope that this helps you a bit - if you still can't decide which one to buy or which path to take then feel free to leave a comment. I'll try to update the answer accordingly :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/product/notebook/GE62-6QF-Apache-Pro.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?f=s%28%29,g%28%29,p%282463%29,k%282.79,2100.00%29&amp;frag=&amp;fragd=0&amp;pav=undefined&amp;sort=5a&amp;sand=0&amp;grp=1&amp;pagesize=100&amp;page=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwYBmsjwHhE&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?f=s%28%29,g%28%29,p%282461%29,k%282.79,2100.00%29&amp;frag=&amp;fragd=0&amp;pav=undefined&amp;sort=5a&amp;sand=0&amp;grp=1&amp;pagesize=100&amp;page=1&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://hddcaddy.com/en/msi-hdd-caddy/1177-msi-ge62-ssd-hdd-caddy.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1257" RevisionGUID="9101cc25-d11a-4a64-b486-e162f47056c6" CreationDate="2016-02-09T12:43:49.227" UserId="987" Comment="edited body" Text="If you are making a true workstation with fast speeds(so not for gaming) but for working with unreal 4 and DirectX 12, I would go with a Titan X because of the RAM benefit and the double float point RAM so you can be sure your not going to get RAM corruption while you are building your game world. I would not pick a socked 1151 but an 2011-3 because the capability for more RAM and RAM disks because I would think speed is your game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to game on it hardcore, I would pick the SLI GTX 980ti setup because its just faster at pushing the pixels for gaming. For the ones who think 6GB + 6GB = 12GB so more RAM that is not how it works. Then I would go with the socked 1151 because it's cheaper and you don't need 64GB of DDR4 for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unreal 4 and Unity 4.X do NOT support Sli &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1974" RevisionGUID="af37cfe1-5bed-4881-9243-08529f323562" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:25:22.247" UserId="1748" Text="[HP Pavilion 14-ab057ca](http://h20386.www2.hp.com/CanadaStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=M1X95UA&amp;opt=ABL&amp;sel=DEF&amp;lang=en-CA) is a good choice. It has :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5-5200U&#xD;&#xA; - 750 GB HDD (if it you don't mind breaking the warranty, you can just change it)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics 5500 (Can runs recent games pretty fine, even if it's reputation says the contrary)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth and Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA; - Blu-Ray drive (compatible with DVDs)&#xD;&#xA; - I can play &quot;Just Cause 2&quot; during 2 hours on battery. Battery life isn't a problem&#xD;&#xA; - Linus runs smooth on it (Startup in only 10 seconds &gt;_&lt;) (You're gonna need the &quot;wl&quot; driver for using the Wi-Fi card on it. Advanced touchpad features are gonna need little hacks)&#xD;&#xA; - 1 SD Card slot, 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - You can boot from the USB, not sure about SD Card.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 GB DDR3 RAM (You can change it)&#xD;&#xA; - A touchpad (You can use two-finger scroll, like on Mac)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for 650$." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1974" RevisionGUID="11c0d1fb-c16c-432c-934c-ed48f9a0b914" CreationDate="2016-02-09T18:25:37.773" UserId="1748" Comment="Typo" Text="[HP Pavilion 14-ab057ca](http://h20386.www2.hp.com/CanadaStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=M1X95UA&amp;opt=ABL&amp;sel=DEF&amp;lang=en-CA) is a good choice. It has :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5-5200U&#xD;&#xA; - 750 GB HDD (if it you don't mind breaking the warranty, you can just change it)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics 5500 (Can runs recent games pretty fine, even if it's reputation says the contrary)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth and Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA; - Blu-Ray drive (compatible with DVDs)&#xD;&#xA; - I can play &quot;Just Cause 2&quot; during 2 hours on battery. Battery life isn't a problem&#xD;&#xA; - Linux runs smooth on it (Startup in only 10 seconds &gt;_&lt;) (You're gonna need the &quot;wl&quot; driver for using the Wi-Fi card on it. Advanced touchpad features are gonna need little hacks)&#xD;&#xA; - 1 SD Card slot, 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - You can boot from the USB, not sure about SD Card.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 GB DDR3 RAM (You can change it)&#xD;&#xA; - A touchpad (You can use two-finger scroll, like on Mac)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for 650$." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="bbdd6056-cdc8-4b6c-b15b-ba02c233cea0" CreationDate="2016-02-09T18:51:44.363" UserId="1734" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. Else look at monitors for blind people, but most only have braille and they're expensive. Or if you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you (basically what you've asked for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="d1f26ca8-cca7-40ea-bb70-bbf05019e6b5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T18:59:51.410" UserId="1734" Comment="deleted 29 characters in body" Text="a) You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Look at braille &quot;monitors&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c) If you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you (basically what you've asked for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About choice a: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="2fef68d7-5619-4672-aaaa-f1c190e8cd9d" CreationDate="2016-02-09T19:07:58.313" UserId="1734" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="a) If you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you (basically what you've asked for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Look at braille &quot;monitors&quot;, but that's far from what you've asked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c) You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About choice a: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1975" RevisionGUID="5f5b236c-4a29-4edf-b9c6-b70133ae1024" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:15:12.987" UserId="1727" Text="I'm trying to help my mom replace her [ancient laptop][1] with a new laptop + external keyboard and monitor.  For use mostly at home in one spot, so this would let us not care so much about a new laptop's form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use: MS Access / Excel, web, email.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **no number pad**.  Reaching far to the side of the alphabetic keys to get to the mouse is a problem.  My mom had a RSI shoulder issue from awkward mousing a few years ago, so we think it's important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ctrl key in the bottom-left corner, not some stupid Fn key: I bought one cheap compact keyboard to test-drive the external-keyboard idea.  The braindead layout was a showstopper.  The more sane the layout, the better.  (Screenshots of the current laptop keyboard are in that link above.  It's nice.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* similar &quot;feel&quot; to a normal laptop keyboard, so it's not jarring to go between internal and external keyboard.  I don't think mechanical switches would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* built-in pointing device: for simple mouse movements, not reaching for the mouse at all saves wear and tear on the shoulder.  She does sometimes use the trackpad on her laptop instead of the external mouse in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Nice layout of the arrow keys is a plus, so alt+left / alt+right can be pressed easily with one hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't have much luck finding external keyboards with built-in pointing devices that weren't also weird in some way.  And they almost always had number pads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wired or wireless is fine.  Combo with a mouse is a disadvantage, but not a critical one.  I'm interested in options at any price range, although it would have to be really amazing to spend over 100$ on.  (We're in Canada, so online retailers can generally get most stuff that's available in the US.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All 15.6&quot; laptops these days seem to be wide, with number pads.  I've looked at some 14&quot; laptops, but didn't see any that seemed like a great value or didn't have some other annoyance in their keyboard layout.  (e.g. a tall enter key with the &lt;kbd&gt;|&lt;/kbd&gt; key somewhere weird.)  Possibly we should just find a laptop with a keyboard she likes and have her use it, rather than go external + monitor.  A small laptop for travel with a big screen for almost all the time at home seems like an obvious choice to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookreview.com/notebookreview/toshiba-satellite-m70-review-pics-specs/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1975" RevisionGUID="5f5b236c-4a29-4edf-b9c6-b70133ae1024" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:15:12.987" UserId="1727" Text="external keyboard with narrow (no number pad) laptop-style layout? trackpad is a bonus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1975" RevisionGUID="5f5b236c-4a29-4edf-b9c6-b70133ae1024" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:15:12.987" UserId="1727" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1975" RevisionGUID="c99a69e8-40a0-4f66-838a-77334c7db1ab" CreationDate="2016-02-09T22:37:05.497" UserId="1727" Comment="added 292 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to help my mom replace her [ancient laptop][1] with a new laptop + external keyboard and monitor.  For use mostly at home in one spot, so this would let us not care so much about a new laptop's form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use: MS Access / Excel, web, email.  So a gaming keyboard isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **no number pad**.  Reaching far to the side of the alphabetic keys to get to the mouse is a problem.  My mom had a RSI shoulder issue from awkward mousing a few years ago, so we think it's important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ctrl key in the bottom-left corner, not some stupid Fn key: I bought one cheap compact keyboard to test-drive the external-keyboard idea.  The braindead layout was a showstopper.  The more sane the layout, the better.  (Screenshots of the current laptop keyboard are in that link above.  It's nice.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* similar &quot;feel&quot; to a normal laptop keyboard, so it's not jarring to go between internal and external keyboard.  I don't think mechanical switches would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* built-in pointing device: for simple mouse movements, not reaching for the mouse at all saves wear and tear on the shoulder.  She does sometimes use the trackpad on her laptop instead of the external mouse in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Nice layout of the arrow keys is a plus, so alt+left / alt+right can be pressed easily with one hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboad is the kind of thing I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ADESSO ACK-540UW: close to what I want][3]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most external keyboards with built-in pointing devices have number pads, or are weird in some way.  For example, the ADESSO ACK-540UW pictured above has really cramped ctrl/capslock keys, and the backquote / ~ key is in a weird place.  I can't even make out the marking on the bottom-left corner key from that image, so I'm not even sure that's a ctrl key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wired or wireless is fine.  Combo with a mouse is a disadvantage, but not a critical one.  I'm interested in options at any price range, although it would have to be really amazing to spend over 100$ on.  (We're in Canada, so online retailers can generally get most stuff that's available in the US.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've considered just finding a laptop with an internal keyboard that would work well for daily use, but laptops without number pads are typically 14&quot; screens or smaller.  This question is just asking for external keyboard recommendations; the off-topic stuff about laptops is just background.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookreview.com/notebookreview/toshiba-satellite-m70-review-pics-specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823166006CVF&amp;cm_re=usb_keyboard-_-23-166-006CVF-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aVTW1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1810" RevisionGUID="ce319bf2-ee3b-4598-b90a-98cdce8fb58e" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:51:08.463" UserId="153" Comment="added 171 characters in body" Text="I would reccomend buying a laptop from digital storm. You can customize your laptop to your likings and price range. Most of the laptops they have are themed towards gaming but they can be used to run vms and all that stuff. You can customize your computer so if you do not want a graphics card you do not have to have a graphics card. Most of there laptops support 32gb of ram and you can have several different options for CPUs so you can get one that fits your performance and price needs. Everything also comes pre installed. I believe this should meet all of your requirements. Digital storm does only have a one year warranty but some of the parts may have a longer warranty and digital storm will replace the parts within 3 years of the Purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1976" RevisionGUID="da07320c-da28-4a15-aacb-1e8018111b22" CreationDate="2016-02-10T02:59:55.150" UserId="1736" Text="There are two tablets which are officially supported by [Replicant][1] - a fully open source Android distribution - namely [Galaxy Tab 2 10.1&quot;][2] and [Galaxy Tab 2 7.0&quot;][3]. However, they run on proprietary hardware and firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another possibility is an open source [LuneOS][4] Linux distribution, which runs on [HP Touchpad][5]. But it has proprietary hardware as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We will see if [BQ Aquaris M10 Ubuntu Tablet][6] is fully open source when it hits the shelves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.replicant.us/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://redmine.replicant.us/projects/replicant/wiki/GalaxyTab2101P51xx&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://redmine.replicant.us/projects/replicant/wiki/GalaxyTab270P31xx&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://webos-ports.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://webos-ports.org/wiki/Tenderloin_Info&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ubuntu.com/tablet/devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1977" RevisionGUID="0db64c8c-5d15-4ca6-81d4-f41e00d911aa" CreationDate="2016-02-10T08:39:39.587" UserId="1751" Text="Dell i7559-763is a superb laptop for programmers and also for game developers.This laptop comes with 8GB DDR3L,256GBSSD 6TH generation Intel core processor.It has 15.6 inch IPS screen with anti-glare technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1978" RevisionGUID="643886fa-2d79-43db-aeff-2497cde41228" CreationDate="2016-02-10T11:53:33.113" UserId="1552" Text="This fan will do the job perfectly, as I installed it 2 weeks ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://noctua.at/en/nf-a9-pwm.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU will not go over 48 Degrees C, no matter the load. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="9fd12630-7f3e-48ed-890d-ae8a9ad9cb2c" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:04:36.123" UserId="1366" Comment="deleted 580 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why change ? - My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - active speakers&#xD;&#xA; - stereo, two speaker system&#xD;&#xA; - price: ~100$&#xD;&#xA; - usage: gaming, listening pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - important features: clear sound, hearable bass, volume control on speaker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I looking for ? -&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for speakers with the best sound quality in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is my idea ? -&#xD;&#xA; [Edifier R1600TIII][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for advice if I can find anything better in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="9fd12630-7f3e-48ed-890d-ae8a9ad9cb2c" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:04:36.123" UserId="1366" Comment="deleted 580 characters in body; edited title" Text="Stereo speakers ~$100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1980" RevisionGUID="b4473a17-7343-4e82-8e21-54ab471774d5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:11:38.933" UserId="57" Text="I've yet to find a compact keyboard with a track pad below the keys that I like, even on laptops. I find that I hit the track pad with my wrists and that randomly clicks everywhere. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had, however, found a keyboard that has a track pad off to the side that I like. It's not as compact as a small laptop's keyboard, but it is still significantly smaller than my desktop's keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the [Logitech K400][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech K400][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Pros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does not contain a number pad. In it's place is the track pad. Hopefully this is ok for the shoulder.&#xD;&#xA;- The &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; is in the lower left corner. I agree with you about the &lt;kdb&gt;FN&lt;/kbd&gt; key. It is not in the lower left.&#xD;&#xA;- Feels similar to laptop keyboards I've used. &#xD;&#xA;- Contains a multi-touch track pad built in&#xD;&#xA;- The &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt; seem easy enough to reach to me. I don't recall ever being annoyed by that button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My only complaint is about the right &lt;kbd&gt;shift&lt;/kbd&gt; button. Instead of the usual long button, it occupies a single button position. Personally, it doesn't bother me, but I've had others that utilize it complain occasionally. I've had laptops with this layout though, so I may be used to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE3RS4902&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0nfkm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1981" RevisionGUID="04959305-ab58-4ac5-8c42-052356c83f10" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:56:47.000" UserId="1098" Text="Our small company needs server capable of running several virtualized machines using both linux and windows guest systems. The chosen host OS is Hyper-V Server 2012 R2 (to be upgraded to Hyper-V Server 2016 as soon after RTM is released). At least 4 drives in raid 10 are required, ideally expandable to 8 drives in the future. We have budget of about 5500€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We've compared some options and currently we are thinking about following configuration from Lenovo:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Server specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	Processor: Intel® Xeon® E5-2620 v3 (6C, 85W, 2.4GHz)&#xD;&#xA;	Hard Drive Bays: 8&#xD;&#xA;	Hard Drive Type: 2.5&quot; HS&#xD;&#xA;	Hard Drive Included: none&#xD;&#xA;	Memory Included: 8GB DDR4-2133MHz (1Rx4) RDIMM&#xD;&#xA;	Memory Slots Total / Available: 16 / 15&#xD;&#xA;	Pre-Loaded OS: none&#xD;&#xA;	RAID Supported: 0,1,10&#xD;&#xA;	Power: 750W Platinum&#xD;&#xA;	Management: none&#xD;&#xA;	Warranty: 1 Year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Included parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	1x Intel® Xeon® E5-2620 v3 (6C, 85W, 2.4GHz)&#xD;&#xA;	1x 8 GB DDR4-2133MHz (1Rx4) RDIMM&#xD;&#xA;	1x ThinkServer RAID 500 Adapter (0,1,10)&#xD;&#xA;	1x ThinkServer RD350 x16 PCIe Riser 1 Kit&#xD;&#xA;	2x 1GbE ports plus dedicated management port&#xD;&#xA;	1x 750W Platinum Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;	1x Slide Rail Kit&#xD;&#xA;	1x Slim DVD-RW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Addons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	1x 4XG0F28846	Lenovo ThinkServer RD350 Intel Xeon E5-2620 v3 (6C, 85W, 2.4GHz) Processor&#xD;&#xA;	3x 4X70F28589	Lenovo ThinkServer 8GB DDR4-2133MHz (1Rx4) RDIMM&#xD;&#xA;	4x 4XB0G88736	Lenovo ThinkServer Gen 5 2.5&quot; 1.2TB 10K Enterprise SAS 12Gbps Hot Swap Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is your opinion on this configuration? And more importantly, is there anything missing? For instance - this configuration is running two processors - is the 750W power supply enough?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1981" RevisionGUID="04959305-ab58-4ac5-8c42-052356c83f10" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:56:47.000" UserId="1098" Text="Server hardware recommendation/validation for hyper-v" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7279" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1981" RevisionGUID="04959305-ab58-4ac5-8c42-052356c83f10" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:56:47.000" UserId="1098" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="49909aff-894c-4245-ad39-dffbe6407f81" CreationDate="2016-02-10T16:01:59.620" UserId="1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7281" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1974" RevisionGUID="1d0d0577-2e5a-4ae8-85c6-b38568a4efa6" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:35:15.437" UserId="1748" Comment="added currency" Text="[HP Pavilion 14-ab057ca](http://h20386.www2.hp.com/CanadaStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=M1X95UA&amp;opt=ABL&amp;sel=DEF&amp;lang=en-CA) is a good choice. It has :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5-5200U&#xD;&#xA; - 750 GB HDD (if it you don't mind breaking the warranty, you can just change it)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics 5500 (Can runs recent games pretty fine, even if it's reputation says the contrary)&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth and Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA; - Blu-Ray drive (compatible with DVDs)&#xD;&#xA; - I can play &quot;Just Cause 2&quot; during 2 hours on battery. Battery life isn't a problem&#xD;&#xA; - Linux runs smooth on it (Startup in only 10 seconds &gt;_&lt;) (You're gonna need the &quot;wl&quot; driver for using the Wi-Fi card on it. Advanced touchpad features are gonna need little hacks)&#xD;&#xA; - 1 SD Card slot, 3 USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - You can boot from the USB, not sure about SD Card.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 GB DDR3 RAM (You can change it)&#xD;&#xA; - A touchpad (You can use two-finger scroll, like on Mac)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for 650$ CAD (approximately 450 $ USD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1982" RevisionGUID="48c79d70-b4ea-4b5c-a58a-3a07fbdc42af" CreationDate="2016-02-10T18:32:40.313" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="The 750W PS is perfectly fine for your config.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is just my opinion: I usually go for more smaller drives than less larger drives. If you get 8 600GB drives you will get the same storage capacity (or very close to it, depends on how they are formatted by the FS) but you will get a large speed bonus, which will generally be a good thing if this server is going to run VMs that are I/O intensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this server absolutely needs to be running 24/7 i would also get a secondary PS and run it on a different power circuit. If one goes down than the other one can take over." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1983" RevisionGUID="19cbe90d-c816-49e6-ab96-9a0055b94f0b" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:07:50.983" UserId="1755" Text="I have five audio sources at a remote location. I want to be able to virtualize them over Ethernet and then be able to listen to them remotely over a LAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In an ideal world, I picture a piece of equipment which accept audio inputs and has an Ethernet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I'd need to have a driver on the remote PC end which could interface to that piece of hardware. It would allow me to select which audio stream I want to listen to and would make it available to the Operating System as a virtual sound card. This is essential so that I can continue using my existing audio software (which is expecting live input from a mic or line-in)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1983" RevisionGUID="19cbe90d-c816-49e6-ab96-9a0055b94f0b" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:07:50.983" UserId="1755" Text="Remote Audio Over IP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1983" RevisionGUID="19cbe90d-c816-49e6-ab96-9a0055b94f0b" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:07:50.983" UserId="1755" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="792" RevisionGUID="a9d1f51a-552d-42ad-9939-986de556646e" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:21:39.387" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices that send or receive simple wireless signals to perform a predetermined function or set of functions. Do not use this tag for wireless computing hardware such as routers or wireless PCIe cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7294" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1983" RevisionGUID="c147b71f-2b64-4383-b946-91d131ab8820" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:23:42.293" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1987" RevisionGUID="d6a025c3-f8c0-42c9-a492-f09e34a97ebe" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:25:50.993" UserId="1366" Text="I'm looking for internal fan controller which will meet my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - internal (I want to put it inside my case)&#xD;&#xA; - set fan speeds based on GPU &amp; CPU temperature&#xD;&#xA; - it has to control at least **four 3-pin fans**&#xD;&#xA; - price: **under 50$**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My proposition:&#xD;&#xA;[NZXT GRID+V2][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any good alternative for NZXT GRID+V2 ? Maybe you can suggest some other cheaper/better solutions ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/GRID-Plus-v2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1987" RevisionGUID="d6a025c3-f8c0-42c9-a492-f09e34a97ebe" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:25:50.993" UserId="1366" Text="Internal fan controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1987" RevisionGUID="d6a025c3-f8c0-42c9-a492-f09e34a97ebe" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:25:50.993" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1972" RevisionGUID="a43b547e-e206-42b6-a37b-fa51f735653e" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:37:10.563" UserId="630" Comment="explained the differences in M.2 SSD key connectors and included picures, added links" Text="[GE62 6QF Apache Pro][1]&#xD;&#xA;-------------------&#xD;&#xA;You have multiple options in my opinion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. See if your shop offers this Laptop with a SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;This would be the easiest option for you probably &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Get a **M.2 SSD** - your laptop supports the new M.2 SSD's which are even faster than the regular SSD's. If a normal user really needs this is questionable but having the option is nice. It is more expensive though.  &#xD;&#xA;If you want to get a M.2 SSD [**you can get it here**][2]. Any of these should work -  pick one which suits your budget and read some reviews when you have doubts.  &#xD;&#xA;You would have to add this to your laptop yourself but there are [**some How-To's on Youtube**][3].  &#xD;&#xA;I have made some good experiences with the **Crucial** and **Intel SSD's** - they were reliable and deliver a great performance.   &#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**  &#xD;&#xA;Your Laptop supports M.2 SSD's with a formfactor of 22x80mm.&#xD;&#xA;[![M.2 Support from your Laptop][4]][4]  &#xD;&#xA;Source: Manual for this Laptop  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But your manual does not say which M.2 Key Port it features - there are 2 different ones. [![Different Key Ports of M.2 SSD's][5]][5]  &#xD;&#xA;Source: [Kingston SM2280S3 120GB M.2 SATA SSD Review on legitreview.com][6]&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Your best bet when buying a M.2 SSD is to buy one with a B&amp;M Connector. These will fit the M.2 Port always. So your best bet would be [**this Intel 535 M.2 SSD 240 GB from Intel**][7] for example: [![Intel 535 M.2 240 GB][8]][8]  &#xD;&#xA;This will fit your laptops M.2 SSD port :)&#xD;&#xA;[![Measurements from Intel SSD][9]][9]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source: [Intel ARK Page of this article][10]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to buy a SSD from another company then make sure to get one with B&amp;M key connector and with a formfactor of 22x80mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. Get a [**regular SSD**][11]. Your Laptop has a built-in DVD-drive - if you are not intending to use it that much you could swap it out and replace it with a SSD. If you plan on doing that you would have to get yourself a SSD and a [**SSD/HDD Cage**][12]. Then you would have to replace your HDD-drive with this cage which houses your SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it depends on which road you want to take. You can't go really wrong with many of these. My Suggestion would be a **Intel 535 M.2 SSD.** But if you want to replace your DVD-Drive with a SSD then I'd probably go for the **Crucial MX200 or BX100**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I hope that this helps you a bit - if you still can't decide which one to buy or which path to take then feel free to leave a comment. I'll try to update the answer accordingly :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/product/notebook/GE62-6QF-Apache-Pro.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?f=s%28%29,g%28%29,p%282463%29,k%282.79,2100.00%29&amp;frag=&amp;fragd=0&amp;pav=undefined&amp;sort=5a&amp;sand=0&amp;grp=1&amp;pagesize=100&amp;page=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwYBmsjwHhE&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Mp3as.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9tskg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.legitreviews.com/kingston-sm2280s3-120gb-m-2-ssd-review_148015&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.skytech.lt/ssdsckjw240h601-ssd-intel-535-240gb-sata3-mlc-540490mbs-80mm-p-241960.html&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PRy23.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LhB9R.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://ark.intel.com/products/86728/Intel-SSD-535-Series-240GB-M_2-80mm-SATA-6Gbs-16nm-MLC&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.skytech.lt/vidiniai-duomenu-kaupikliai-hdd-ssd-priedai-ssd-tipo-kaupikliai-solidstate-drive-c-86_85_1407_1408.html?f=s%28%29,g%28%29,p%282461%29,k%282.79,2100.00%29&amp;frag=&amp;fragd=0&amp;pav=undefined&amp;sort=5a&amp;sand=0&amp;grp=1&amp;pagesize=100&amp;page=1&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://hddcaddy.com/en/msi-hdd-caddy/1177-msi-ge62-ssd-hdd-caddy.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="d17bc37e-3dca-46e9-bd57-2a3f7fb8ab80" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:58:30.037" UserId="1762" Text="I am currently trying to upgrade my rather outdated (but reliable :) ) pc without spending very much money at all. I have these two similar graphics cards in my possession right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EAH4350 Silent][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EAX1550/TD/256][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/EAH4350_SILENTDI512MD2/specifications/%22EAH4350%20Silent%22&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/EAX1550TD256MA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see both cards are similar, yet the second one has half the video memory and double the effective memory size of the first?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, what is effective memory, how does it relate to video memory and/or the performance of the card. (And to be *extremely* general, which card will run skyrim better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** Basic specs on my pc **&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: Intel core2 duo @ 2.8GHz&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAM: ddr2-1066 4GB (2X2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; 3. OS:  Windows xp sp3&#xD;&#xA; 4. GPU: Currently have the EAH4350 Silent installed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="d17bc37e-3dca-46e9-bd57-2a3f7fb8ab80" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:58:30.037" UserId="1762" Text="What is the difference between video memory and effective memory size(GPU's)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="d17bc37e-3dca-46e9-bd57-2a3f7fb8ab80" CreationDate="2016-02-11T07:58:30.037" UserId="1762" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1990" RevisionGUID="3c20bd10-de61-4476-9876-6a9370fe9743" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:09:41.833" UserId="1753" Text="So I'm looking for a computer to learn game development on, that should cover the following bases:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have either a 15.6 or 17.3&quot; screen (not sure which would be better for me, but no less than 15.6&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Have a decent GPU (most likely GTX 960m)&#xD;&#xA; - Have a decent CPU (prob. 5th/6th gen intel i7, most I looked at had the 6700HQ)&#xD;&#xA; - Have either 16GB ram or 8GB with the option of upgrading to 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - Have an IPS panel&#xD;&#xA; - either good battery life or some way to charge without a wall socket e.g. USB 3.1 with reversible power.&#xD;&#xA; - not be incredibly expensive (800-1k$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I'm willing to compromise on a count or two if it's a better choice overall)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;after a lot of searching I actually found a few that covered my bases, except the last one (battery life). since by definition powerful laptops require more power, most of the rigs I looked at didn't have amazing battery time.&#xD;&#xA;knowing this I looked for ones with USB 3.1-C ports thinking I could charge them via power bank.&#xD;&#xA;but after settling on the  ASUS GL552VW/GL752VW, I found out that it does NOT support the PD 2.0 standard meaning it's useless for charging and I would be limited to the lackluster ~4hr battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, that being said- here are some of the laptops I've considered so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Dell Inspiron i7559-2512BLK][1]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [ASUS ROG GL752VW-DH71 (17&quot; version)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations or general input would be more than welcome!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**P.S. - I know a desktop would be better for my purposes, but that's not a relevant option for me at the moment.**&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834298771&amp;cm_re=dell_i7559-_-34-298-771-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834232770&amp;cm_re=Asus_gl752vw-_-34-232-770-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1990" RevisionGUID="3c20bd10-de61-4476-9876-6a9370fe9743" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:09:41.833" UserId="1753" Text="Looking for a laptop to learn game development on the go" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1990" RevisionGUID="3c20bd10-de61-4476-9876-6a9370fe9743" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:09:41.833" UserId="1753" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1992" RevisionGUID="ded59b41-d09f-4acc-bc81-886a01503f3d" CreationDate="2016-02-11T11:23:28.477" UserId="275" Text="[I run a][1] 'Humans of' Facebook page, which involves me interviewing people on the street and taking photos of them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Till now I've been using a voice recording app on my phone to record the conversation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I've been having is that often with the traffic and other ambient noise, it's hard to make out the conversation when I playback the recording later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking that a bluetooth microphone might help solve this. Either by placing the microphone in their hand to be closer to them, or better targeted at their voice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth so it is recorded on my phone. &#xD;&#xA;- Cheap - I'm not looking to spend a lot of money. &lt; $100&#xD;&#xA;- Will effectively isolate the voice from background noise. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions to how this could be incorporated into the interview flow would also be appreciated. I need to be still able to operate my camera, and I don't want a visually distracting microphone in the picture. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.facebook.com/humansofnewtownwgtn/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1992" RevisionGUID="ded59b41-d09f-4acc-bc81-886a01503f3d" CreationDate="2016-02-11T11:23:28.477" UserId="275" Text="Bluetooth microphone for interviewing people" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1992" RevisionGUID="ded59b41-d09f-4acc-bc81-886a01503f3d" CreationDate="2016-02-11T11:23:28.477" UserId="275" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1993" RevisionGUID="b86e4249-b1cf-4c57-b1dd-81000d70b7a1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:04:51.093" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Is the AMD still viable?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at a mild upgrade to my existing rig, including video card and memory, not much else.  I'm curious if the 8320 is still adequate considering the reasonable cost of the 6500 Skylake (which is considered pretty good for its price but no overclocking).  I do some gaming, but don't care about 4k or reaching super ultra high whatever.  I plan on a 380x AMD gfx card, so that part should be good to go.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I go the AMD route, I only need to swap CPU, as I currently have an AMD system and compatible MB.  Whereas, going Intel would require new MB, new RAM, and the CPU.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from normal computer usage (internet, email, etc) and playing WoW or BF4, the AMD should be just fine.  Right?  Or would it be best to spend the little extra and go Intel, considering the new platform means I can upgrade the CPU later." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="1993" RevisionGUID="b86e4249-b1cf-4c57-b1dd-81000d70b7a1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:04:51.093" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="AMD FX-8320 or Intel Skylake i5-6500?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="1993" RevisionGUID="b86e4249-b1cf-4c57-b1dd-81000d70b7a1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:04:51.093" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="93e3ddb2-bac4-4e50-9d75-b364d1a4b44b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:56:27.137" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="I will understand if this is off-topic, I couldn't really understand the rules, but I saw some similar questions. I'll delete this if you consider it to be off-topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my current PC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asrock 970 Extreme3 R2.0&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD FX 4350 &#xD;&#xA; - Video: AMD R9 270 2GB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: (1x) Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB 1600Mhz DDR3&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Kingston 128GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: WD 500GB 7200RPM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to upgrade my computer so that it allows for further modification but in such a way that I don't get bottlenecks. The GPU is pretty new so I won't be changing it for now. I use my computer mostly for gaming and work (Visual Studio + Hyper-V with a Windows Server 2012 instance), and because of this an upgrade to 16GB RAM is needed (8GB runs short sometimes).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the upgrade paths I've been able to identify which could provide me a nice performance gain for at least some time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade1 (current CPU is given as part of the price)**  &#xD;&#xA;This path has two downsides: RAM keeps being DDR3, so upgrade to DDR4 will be required in some time; and the FX8350 is basically the top of what AM3+ will get. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - New CPU: FX8350 = USD270 &#xD;&#xA; - New RAM DDR3 8GB stick = USD110 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD380&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade2 (current CPU and motherboard are given as part of the price)**  &#xD;&#xA;This path has the same RAM downside as Upgrade1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - New Motherboard: Asus Z97-C = USD200&#xD;&#xA; - New CPU: i5 4590 = USD300&#xD;&#xA; - New RAM DDR3 8GB stick = USD110 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD610&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Upgrade3 (current CPU, RAM and motherboard are given as part of the price)**   &#xD;&#xA;This path allows for DDR4 RAM, many CPU upgrades if/when required and the motherboard has 2 PCI-E 3.0 slots for many different GPU setups, when an upgrade is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI Z170a = USD220 &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 16GB = USD200 &#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5 6400 = USD280 &#xD;&#xA; - Total: USD700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm wondering is if the Upgrade3 path is really worth the USD700 (without taking into account that the final price will be around USD450 upon giving my components). Also, I'm not from the USA, that's why prices will probably seem much higher than they should be (and importing is not an option)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="93e3ddb2-bac4-4e50-9d75-b364d1a4b44b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:56:27.137" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="Deciding on PC upgrade path" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1756" RevisionGUID="93e3ddb2-bac4-4e50-9d75-b364d1a4b44b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:56:27.137" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 1458 edit id of 383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="981a5b10-76b9-4932-ae74-e69859945a74" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:02:09.640" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes and added list formatting" Text="My laptop's internal Wi-Fii antenna is horrible. At my school especially, it can only connect half the time, and when it does, rarely actually assigns me an IP address. I'm looking for a USB adapter that can help me actually get Wi-i at school (and anywhere else I might need it too). I'm wary of doing this, because I already have a USB Wi-Fi dongle ([Netgear wg111v3][1]), but it's pretty much as bad as my internal one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research, and narrowed it down to these two being best for my budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Hiro Adapter][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Panda Adapter][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: Which one will give me better reception and reliability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://firmware.netgear-forum.com/ntgfirm/img/produit/WG111v2h1_back_lowres.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/H50194-Wireless-802-11n-Omnidirectional-External/dp/B003516BJU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="981a5b10-76b9-4932-ae74-e69859945a74" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:02:09.640" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes and added list formatting" Text="Which product will give a better Wi-Fi reception?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="981a5b10-76b9-4932-ae74-e69859945a74" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:02:09.640" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by -1 edit id of 386" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1740" RevisionGUID="73c94d6d-c87b-4f15-99e0-2fdd4b33748b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:02:09.640" UserId="60" Comment="Minor fixes and added list formatting" Text="My laptop's internal Wi-Fi antenna is horrible. At my school especially, it can only connect half the time, and when it does, rarely actually assigns me an IP address. I'm looking for a USB adapter that can help me actually get Wi-Fi at school (and anywhere else I might need it too). I'm wary of doing this, because I already have a USB Wi-Fi dongle ([Netgear wg111v3][1]), but it's pretty much as bad as my internal one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research, and narrowed it down to these two being best for my budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Hiro Adapter][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Panda Adapter][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: Which one will give me better reception and reliability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://firmware.netgear-forum.com/ntgfirm/img/produit/WG111v2h1_back_lowres.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/H50194-Wireless-802-11n-Omnidirectional-External/dp/B003516BJU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1723" RevisionGUID="ebeb9986-0c16-436c-9f9d-59da484b0527" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:02.310" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="I've used 3 different flavours of Ethernet over power. Apparently it's *seriously* dependant on your household power line quality, and other devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once I got it dialed in (and got slightly newer models than my homeplug AV 200 units), its fast and more importantly *very* reliable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More expensive adaptors support newer 'faster' standards, and practically speaking you're likely to get about 1/3 the speed listed (so a homeplug AV 100 would do ~30Mbps, and so on). However, the newer standards are likely to have better noise rejection and as such better reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good middle ground would be HomePlug AV2 500 gear. AV2 200 is more sensitive to noise, and my washing machine would trip it off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things to look out for? Get *passthrough* devices since they *filter* noise from things plugged into it, and don't hog a socket. Some tuning and repositioning needs to be better. If you're running this in a living room, consider units with more than one ethernet socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I don't use them now, I'd recommend TP-LINK's adaptors (I upgraded to a newer standard from another manufacturer - they're great but not widely available). They also have fairly intuitive, user friendly configuration software (though since all the chipsets are made by the same companies, I used it with my gear from other brands as well), which is handy if you want to set it up right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's great for backups (which is what I use it for) and getting wired connections to odd places. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe this is the two pack for the model [I have][1] now. Amazon UK seems to have a good range of them. Not too sure what's the best place for them in the UK, we share a plug type, but we have different retailers in Singapore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tp-link.sg/products/details/cat-18_TL-PA4010PKIT.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1723" RevisionGUID="ebeb9986-0c16-436c-9f9d-59da484b0527" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:02.310" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 384" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="0d85fc68-c69b-4212-9284-dd8ab1aa20f3" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:09.510" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="I would like to use my laptop as a Wi-Fi hotspot, but the Wi-Fi hardware does not support AP mode, which I understand is required, as mentioned [here][1] and other similar pages providing instructions for how to set it up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a google search I did find [this][2] page, but there is just a '?' in the column for whether the dongle supports AP mode or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have a Wi-Fi dongle that supports AP mode? If so, what is it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it matters, I am running Ubuntu 14.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ubuntuhandbook.org/index.php/2014/09/3-ways-create-wifi-hotspot-ubuntu/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://elinux.org/RPi_USB_Wi-Fi_Adapters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7351" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="0d85fc68-c69b-4212-9284-dd8ab1aa20f3" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:09.510" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="What available Wi-Fi dongles support AP mode?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1766" RevisionGUID="0d85fc68-c69b-4212-9284-dd8ab1aa20f3" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:09.510" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 382" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="3a1f4c25-eebe-4bf5-8fb4-72ff36af2d29" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:15.957" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="**Background:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP DL580 G5 Server with 128GB RAM and 4 Quad Cores but not much local storage just enough for OS and stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have another HP StorageWorks X1400 G2 Network Storage System based on DL320 G6 which has plenty of available storage but not much horsepower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to do is keep my virtual machines on HP Storage Works x1400 and run from DL580.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried with 1 Gigabit ethernet but when you want to run multiple VMs it's not fast enough - things load slow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the most economical piece of hardware that I can use to connect these two machines. It needs to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- have a similar connectivity to a DAS&#xD;&#xA;- let me *store* VMs on the G6, and *run* them over the connection on the G5&#xD;&#xA;- be professional quality, if possible&#xD;&#xA;- have as low a price tag as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The G5 server has a PCIe slot; I had wondered if I could use this as a basis for the hardware. Bonus points if that's the case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="3a1f4c25-eebe-4bf5-8fb4-72ff36af2d29" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:15.957" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="Connecting two HP servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7355" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1730" RevisionGUID="3a1f4c25-eebe-4bf5-8fb4-72ff36af2d29" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:15.957" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 8 edit id of 387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7356" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="4bc432c0-b0c7-41e8-9720-45382b57e78b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:23.173" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="I am considering Ethernet over power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I presume that there are trade-offs between price and quality versus standard wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be considering this for an average size UK living room, with one router and three PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be used 80 to 90% for internet access, so only needs to match or beat Wi-Fi speeds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the rest of  the time, two laptops would be using it to back up to a file server PC, so that more bandwidth would be welcome. Although, once the first backup of everything is done, backups would be mirror backup, monitoring the file system and updating individual files as they change. So that might not be such a major consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend for UK home use, and where should I buy it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1721" RevisionGUID="4bc432c0-b0c7-41e8-9720-45382b57e78b" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:51:23.173" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 385" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="1999" RevisionGUID="75cb05d6-0f46-4af8-af30-a90b97fb3119" CreationDate="2016-02-12T00:36:55.323" UserId="1678" Text="I would recommend the Dell Inspiron 15 7559 Notebook  [(specifications here)][1]&#xD;&#xA;According to the above website &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has a 15.6 Inch Screen&#xD;&#xA; - It has a GTX 960M GPU&#xD;&#xA; - It has a Intel Core i7-6700HQ CPU [(Specs here)][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the battery specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Idle (without WLAN, min brightness)	: 11h 49min&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WiFi Surfing v1.3 : 3h 52min&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Load (maximum brightness) : 1h 16min&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that helps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-15-7559-Notebook-Review.154635.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ-Notebook-Processor.149420.0.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1992" RevisionGUID="c6db3752-bba7-4b76-bd25-61ab3756ef40" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:27:46.837" UserId="275" Comment="edited body" Text="[I run a 'Humans of' Facebook page][1], which involves me interviewing people on the street and taking photos of them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Till now I've been using a voice recording app on my phone to record the conversation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I've been having is that often with the traffic and other ambient noise, it's hard to make out the conversation when I playback the recording later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking that a bluetooth microphone might help solve this. Either by placing the microphone in their hand to be closer to them, or better targeted at their voice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth so it is recorded on my phone. &#xD;&#xA;- Cheap - I'm not looking to spend a lot of money. &lt; $100&#xD;&#xA;- Will effectively isolate the voice from background noise. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions to how this could be incorporated into the interview flow would also be appreciated. I need to be still able to operate my camera, and I don't want a visually distracting microphone in the picture. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.facebook.com/humansofnewtownwgtn/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="2c332f65-9ab1-466a-a2e2-6c978627790c" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:43:46.073" UserId="48" Comment="Removed thanks as per SE policy and minor fixes" Text="I am currently trying to upgrade my rather outdated (but reliable :) ) PC without spending very much money at all. I have these two similar graphics cards in my possession right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EAH4350 Silent][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EAX1550/TD/256][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/EAH4350_SILENTDI512MD2/specifications/%22EAH4350%20Silent%22&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/EAX1550TD256MA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see both cards are similar, yet the second one has half the video memory and double the effective memory size of the first?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, what is effective memory, how does it relate to video memory and/or the performance of the card? (And to be *extremely* general, which card will run Skyrim better?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** Basic specs on my PC **&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: Intel core2 duo @ 2.8GHz&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAM: ddr2-1066 4GB (2X2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; 3. OS:  Windows xp sp3&#xD;&#xA; 4. GPU: Currently have the EAH4350 Silent installed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="2c332f65-9ab1-466a-a2e2-6c978627790c" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:43:46.073" UserId="48" Comment="Removed thanks as per SE policy and minor fixes" Text="What is the difference between video memory and effective memory size (GPU's)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1988" RevisionGUID="2c332f65-9ab1-466a-a2e2-6c978627790c" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:43:46.073" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 155 edit id of 389" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="4524f8c6-b989-4570-ba29-f50f279f864f" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:44:11.410" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="I want to build a home-made multi-room home sound system.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a single board computer device with a minimal hardware configuration. In my thoughts, my only requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Wi-Fi connection;&#xD;&#xA;* Audio output;&#xD;&#xA;* Push button to config wireless network through WPS;&#xD;&#xA;* An LED to show current network status;&#xD;&#xA;* Optionally, an RJ45 connection for development through SSH.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually no video output is required, nor additional USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What could be the cheapest solution for my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="4524f8c6-b989-4570-ba29-f50f279f864f" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:44:11.410" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes" Text="Cheapest single computer board with Wi-Fi and audio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1497" RevisionGUID="4524f8c6-b989-4570-ba29-f50f279f864f" CreationDate="2016-02-12T05:44:11.410" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 155 edit id of 390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="027979dd-6695-47b2-b616-a15b0aac30ef" CreationDate="2016-02-12T11:13:25.330" UserId="1734" Comment="edited body" Text="a) If you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you (basically what you've asked for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Look at braille &quot;monitors&quot;, but that's far from what you've asked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c) You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About choice c: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs, set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 20h, 30h and 40h (about 90 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2002" RevisionGUID="60d82d7d-55fd-4f65-886c-9ab611a0de53" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:37:47.567" UserId="1778" Text="So I've bought a SilentiumPC Fera 2 HE1224 CPU cooler for cooling my CPU and I really like it so I want to make my CPU even cooler by adding an another fan to blow the air out - on the other side of the radiator. But i do not know if I should buy the fan with more RPM, lower RPM or the same RPM as the original has. Actual Fan has 1400 rpm. Thanks for the answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: This is how it approximately looks now. &#xD;&#xA;[![http://www.bestpcinfo.pl/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SilentiumPC-Fera-2-Monta%C5%BC-na-p%C5%82ycie.jpg][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jX0hA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2002" RevisionGUID="60d82d7d-55fd-4f65-886c-9ab611a0de53" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:37:47.567" UserId="1778" Text="What RPM on 2nd CPU Fan is better? Higher, lower or the same?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2002" RevisionGUID="60d82d7d-55fd-4f65-886c-9ab611a0de53" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:37:47.567" UserId="1778" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="208e85b0-9abb-4d67-9c5f-835de4c23fe7" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:01:25.087" UserId="1420" Comment="Quite highly priced USB 3 card " Text="Connecting two USB2 devices to an external USB2/3 HUB, connected to one USB2/3 port would normally limit the average read-speed to 240 Mb/s, and continuing adding devices would limit the average speed to 480Mb/s divided by number of devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same would be if I use a USB controller card on the mainboard of most computers, as they are normally implemented using only one [USB channels][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the solution for handling eight devices in full speed is to get USB controller(s) that is implemented using eight dedicated channels to handle the speed of all of the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does exist an USB controller card that are able to handle full speed of four USB 3.0 devices ([PEXUSB3S44V][2]). Four two of these the total would cost about $255 here in Norway. As I do not need the speed of USB 2.0 this price is a bit to much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other alternatives that would handle 8 or 2*4 USB 2.0 drives at full speed to a cheaper price than $255?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/a/405356/506409&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dustinhome.no/product/5010815847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2005" RevisionGUID="a7cdc4c8-bbc6-4b34-ae38-c417736926f1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:11:49.320" UserId="60" Text="I would get the same fan that is on the cooler. You know that it will fit on the cooler and have the same performance. I would make sure that you have enough room on the other side of the cooler before purchasing the additional fan, as it look like you might have another heat sink in the way (it might not be, its just hard to tell from your picture at that angle). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that [this fan](https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/sigma-pro-120-pwm/) is the same one that comes with the cooler. If you do not decide to get the same fan, I would get a fan that has the same RPM as the one on the cooler, as the fan with the lower RPM will just get in the way of the faster fan, reducing the cooling effectiveness. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="8c5d8683-cffc-4372-8e19-729e37b79c58" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:19:20.067" UserId="1780" Text="could anybody recommend SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 70 degree (by Celsius) under the load, into my microATX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="8c5d8683-cffc-4372-8e19-729e37b79c58" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:19:20.067" UserId="1780" Text="SSD that heats not too much" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="8c5d8683-cffc-4372-8e19-729e37b79c58" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:19:20.067" UserId="1780" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="f46eb8cb-345b-4df4-9532-25c611948b90" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:33:40.850" UserId="1780" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 70 degree (by Celsius) under the load, into my microATX case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="98919e3e-cf0a-4f57-bd52-26c65dbf8c69" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:39:30.467" UserId="1780" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 70 degree (by Celsius) under the load, into my microATX case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2008" RevisionGUID="3d9515f5-0d5a-4a6f-9ee2-76546eafe999" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:59:42.463" UserId="1771" Text="Solid State Drives use about 8W of power while HDD use 12W or so on average. That doesnt directly show heat output but it should help you get an idea. So SSD aren't any hotter than HDD besides NVME ssd's. For example NVME 950 Pro from samsung is known to get upto 100C and start thermal throttling to prevent damage. If you dont know what NVME is then i will just tell you that as long as you are using a red SATA cable to connected the drive to the mobo you are fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2009" RevisionGUID="109047fc-a157-4087-bb16-2ad19f4eef9c" CreationDate="2016-02-12T20:05:47.967" UserId="1771" Text="The intel cpu is generally better especially in single thread applications. But it is most certanly not worth if you have to change the mobo and RAM but then again with the skylake platform you can upgrade to i7 6700k down the road when it gets cheaper while you cant really upgrade that much on that amd socket." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2010" RevisionGUID="d045d13a-fd5e-4f94-9d38-c19d688c25fd" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:00:10.200" UserId="1459" Text="I'm looking for a reasonably priced USB hub to use primarily as a charging station.  &#xA;&#xA; - entirely USB 3.0 so that it may also function as a modern USB hub&#xA; - at least 4 ports with Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0&#xA; - power output sufficient to utilize all Quick Charge ports simultaneously (2 Amps each)&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2010" RevisionGUID="d045d13a-fd5e-4f94-9d38-c19d688c25fd" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:00:10.200" UserId="1459" Text="USB 3.0 Quick Charge hub w/4+ ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2010" RevisionGUID="d045d13a-fd5e-4f94-9d38-c19d688c25fd" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:00:10.200" UserId="1459" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2012" RevisionGUID="1e2c1e66-2a3a-4b57-aad2-94ab1e8b5456" CreationDate="2016-02-13T00:54:00.703" UserId="1678" Text="I have been looking at different laptops and cannot see one with a Mac keyboard layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could buy a Macbook [(I found one which has your specs here)][1]&#xD;&#xA;and install Windows OS on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find a tutorial on installing Windows on Mac [here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that helps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Apple-Macbook-Pro-2-5GHz-2-5-GHz-15-4-MJLT2-i7-16GB-RAM-512GB-RETINA-2015-/381476421415?hash=item58d1c43f27:g:3BUAAOxygj5Sd8Lf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-Windows-7-on-MacBook-Pro-with-Retina-Displ/?ALLSTEPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2014" RevisionGUID="e2254835-dd4c-48f1-ab66-477af57ebe3a" CreationDate="2016-02-13T06:30:19.360" UserId="1364" Text="The trend for a smaller and a compact smartphone is decreasing. I'd still recommend the moto g1/2 if you don't mind sticking on to android 5.1.1. If you don't mind a little bit bigger screen at 13 cm then go for the nexus 5x ." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2015" RevisionGUID="23ad33cb-5a63-45aa-96ae-bd13096fbe65" CreationDate="2016-02-13T06:47:34.643" UserId="1364" Text="Why didn't anyone recommend the nexus 6p??&#xD;&#xA;It is the latest nexus out there and scores virtually in almost all the aspects you mentioned and even exceeds a few&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Gorgeous display-** boasts a ***QHD AMOLED*** and it is the best display on a smartphone and takes on samsung's flagships.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Awesome Specs-** Android 6.0 Marshmallow with quickest software updates from Google &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Quad-core 1.55 GHz Cortex-A53 &amp; Quad-core 2.0 GHz Cortex-A57, 3GB of RAM, Adreno 430 GPU; Snapdragon 810 v2 chipset&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32GB, 64GB, or 128GB of storage&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;12.3MP camera with laser autofocus and dual-LED flash; 1.55µm pixels; 8MP selfie camera,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2160p video capture&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cat. 6 LTE (300Mbps); Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac; Bluetooth 4.2; GPS/GLONASS; NFC; USB Type-C port with USB host&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader&lt;br&gt; Android Pay&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3,450mAh Li-Po battery with fast charging " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2016" RevisionGUID="9406d851-f732-4c44-82c9-2a553ec98937" CreationDate="2016-02-13T06:51:39.833" UserId="1364" Text="The huawei marathon m5 is the company's new offering with 5000mah which should have enough juice to last you around 7-9 hrs of web browsing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="f6081fcf-2ad4-4787-8898-8a92a16e8a49" CreationDate="2016-02-13T11:21:42.060" UserId="1780" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 70 degree (by Celsius) under the load, into my microATX case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair's SSD worst temp was 80 degree&#xD;&#xA;[![SMART Status (worst temp of my corsair) ][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/M9UBK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="c08b0643-e578-41da-959b-6c5d09920c54" CreationDate="2016-02-13T11:48:35.520" UserId="1780" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 70 degree (by Celsius) under the load, into my microATX case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My corsair's SSD worst temp was 80 degree. I would like to minimize those numbers.&#xD;&#xA;[![SMART Status (worst temp of my corsair) ][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/M9UBK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="d14618ee-86ec-4804-8e92-70804ec71b39" CreationDate="2016-02-13T12:57:14.480" UserId="1780" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 80 degree (by Celsius) under the load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My corsair's SSD worst temp was 80 degree. I would like to minimize those numbers.&#xD;&#xA;[![SMART Status (worst temp of my corsair) ][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/M9UBK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be SSD drives for the same bus (SATA III) but with lower for factor (M2 ?) should be preferable for cases where temperatures problems can be observed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="77c1a8e9-8c62-4907-bd3c-d37a75f37a3c" CreationDate="2016-02-13T13:29:39.897" UserId="1764" Text="Does anyone own a multy channel router (that supports IP-TV also), I was looking at ASUS and D-Link but are there any other good brands that dont cost over 300€?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="77c1a8e9-8c62-4907-bd3c-d37a75f37a3c" CreationDate="2016-02-13T13:29:39.897" UserId="1764" Text="A good dual or even three channel router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="77c1a8e9-8c62-4907-bd3c-d37a75f37a3c" CreationDate="2016-02-13T13:29:39.897" UserId="1764" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="6c32849b-c5e8-418d-bfef-b71345b210fd" CreationDate="2016-02-13T13:56:28.727" UserId="8" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a dual- or multi-channel router. Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2/3 or more channels&#xD;&#xA;- Supports IP/TV as well as the standard functionality&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand (think Asus, D-Link)&#xD;&#xA;- Not more than €300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="7ccbd189-857d-42bc-bac7-1d7cb4e60aac" CreationDate="2016-02-13T14:47:16.313" UserId="1780" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, which can heat till 80 degree (by Celsius) under the load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My corsair's SSD worst temp was 80 degree. I would like to minimize those numbers.&#xD;&#xA;[![SMART Status (worst temp of my corsair) ][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/M9UBK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be SSD drives for the same bus (SATA III) but with lower for factor (M2 ? &quot;half-size&quot; ?) should be preferable for cases where temperatures problems can be observed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="80e56fd4-2bea-4398-9449-b77b1992c37a" CreationDate="2016-02-13T15:41:02.280" UserId="1783" Text="I'm building a new pc for a personal cloud server and I was thinking about buying the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI AM1I&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD Athlon 5350 &#xD;&#xA; - Ram: HyperX Fury Blue DDR3 1600MHz PC3-12800 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - One sata HDD (I will be reusing it and don't remember its specs) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had read that the power supply wattage should be in a certain range and almost all the PSU I have found didn't meet this criteria. Will I have problems if I get one with a higher wattage?&#xD;&#xA;i.e. My build has a power usage of 72-94w so a 150w PSU will be optimal but I only had found 500w PSU because of my reduced budget (50€ for the case and PSU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="80e56fd4-2bea-4398-9449-b77b1992c37a" CreationDate="2016-02-13T15:41:02.280" UserId="1783" Text="doubts about power supply wattage on my future build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="80e56fd4-2bea-4398-9449-b77b1992c37a" CreationDate="2016-02-13T15:41:02.280" UserId="1783" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="3b5ac5cf-db86-4d1a-8404-245cb5f4a211" CreationDate="2016-02-13T16:44:55.560" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2025" RevisionGUID="1d516253-8d1e-4fc8-be26-32b5f8f937a4" CreationDate="2016-02-14T00:43:48.410" UserId="1762" Text="I finally worked out what 1GB effective memory actually means in the EAX1550. ATI has a feature on some of their cards called [HyperMemory][1] which allows the card to *steal* some of the the systems main memory (RAM). The reason for doing this is that it allows for ATI to produce cheap video cards with a large amount of processing memory without the need for expensive on board memory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The downside to this is that it requires the system to surrender a portion of its RAM for graphics processing. Also, due to the fact that a large portion of the GPU's memory is not on board, large amounts of data must be moved between the card and the main system causing some latency issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; As for which one plays Skyrim better, i have yet to run some tests but i will probably post my very unofficial results here for anyone who is interested. (My money is on the card without HyperMemory, as it should run slightly faster, albeit with less memory)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HyperMemory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2026" RevisionGUID="3b76c8ba-98d2-4fad-bfe9-b5062863855e" CreationDate="2016-02-14T07:12:52.407" UserId="1364" Text="These are the two routers which match your requirements and these were released recently. These are tri-band routers which do not reduce speed even when multiple devices are connected to the same network **i.e** A tri-band router is literally hosting two separate 5 GHz networks, and it automatically sorts devices into different networks. This offers more speed to share among your devices even if you are using heavy data on one network (eg;- 4k). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Asus RT-AC3200 Tri-Band Router - 200€***&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;It has six adjustable antennas featuring three bands 2.4Ghz(1) and 5Ghz(2)&#xD;&#xA;It has solid performance in the 5Ghz band and has a bunch of features like multiple LED indicators. It under performs when handling files through LAN(file transferring) and it is a tad expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***D-Link AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router (DIR-890L/R)- 200€***&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Similar to the Asus it has 6 antennas with tri-band, 2.4Ghz and two 5Ghz bands. It has an awesome build and a multiple LED indicators like the Asus. It can really handle files and heavy data without breaking a sweat. Even though it has very less cons it is priced at an expensive price point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2027" RevisionGUID="459958d0-aa3c-4250-b87c-cd146726d432" CreationDate="2016-02-14T08:02:38.703" UserId="1364" Text="There are not much good bluetooth options available, but I've listed out a couple of the best &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Nolan MIC Bluetooth Wireless Microphone - 64$***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;- Range - 100ft(30m)&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life - 6hr(moderate usage)&#xD;&#xA;- Good customer reviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can slightly bump up your price barrier then,&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Sony ECMAW4 Wireless Microphone - 150$*** (can get it for a lot less cheaper offline)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- better audio quality &#xD;&#xA;- can pair with other devices like camcorders &#xD;&#xA;- can't pair with phones directly&#xD;&#xA;- great customer reviews&#xD;&#xA;- avg. battery&#xD;&#xA;- Range - 164ft (Sony's claim)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do check all the customer reviews of both the products on amazon and there is also a video about the latter product on its review page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Nolan MIC - amazon page][1]&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;[Sony MIC - amazon page][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009DT424Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B001PKUUF4&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0NJ6K6B2A1MN8SMA8CCZ#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWU6WWO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B001PKUUF4&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0NJ6K6B2A1MN8SMA8CCZ#customerReviews" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2007" RevisionGUID="6a3f87d3-2dda-4b8c-851b-039e2757f4ad" CreationDate="2016-02-14T09:21:45.847" UserId="1780" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="Could anybody recommend desktop's SSD that works with lower temperature (I mean that would not heat too much) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or may be at least brand which bother about it... It seems nobody is interesting in that but I do not like idea to put  two SSD, that can heat till 80 degree (by Celsius) under the load into my MicroATX overcrowded case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be some mobile models would fit better for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other recommendations? E.g. too prefer lower size? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My corsair's SSD worst temp was 80 degree. I would like to minimize those numbers.&#xD;&#xA;[![SMART Status (worst temp of my corsair) ][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/M9UBK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May be SSD drives for the same bus (SATA III) but with lower form factor (M2 ? &quot;half-size SATA&quot; ?) should be preferable for cases where temperatures problems can be observed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="0f339491-d68a-4049-b7ee-f012345cde03" CreationDate="2016-02-14T12:58:29.643" UserId="273" Comment="added qualified electronic signatures bonus, added standard physical interfaces requirement" Text="I'm always looking for ways to improve my security in the internet. As I'm also a programmer and somewhat active on [InfoSec][1] and [Crypto][2] I decided that a smart card is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thereby looking for a smart card (or an USB-token) that has the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [elliptic curve cryptography][3] (256 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSA][4] (2048 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Storage for at least 10 keys of each of them&#xD;&#xA; - [FIPS 140-2 Level 3][5] certification (preferred) or high [Common Criteria certification][6] (EAL 4+)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be acquirable for private persons (non-companies)&#xD;&#xA; - Driver ([PKCS#11][7] / [CSP][8] / CNG) support for Windows 7 and Windows 10 (both x64), either directly or via [OpenSC][9].&#xD;&#xA; - For actual cards: Standard physical interfaces (i.e. no vendor-specific card readers needed)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-mandatory points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for custom ECC curves&#xD;&#xA; - Native support for [Curve25519][10] / Curve448&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSASSA-PSS][11] or [ECDSA][12] (without the software doing the hashing)&#xD;&#xA; - For actual cards: Contactless operatibility&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100 per piece)&#xD;&#xA; - Qualification for qualified electronic signatures (i.e. legally binding signatures), preferably under german law&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://security.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://crypto.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_curve_cryptography&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RSA_%28cryptosystem%29&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIPS_140-2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Criteria&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_11&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryptographic_Service_Provider&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://github.com/OpenSC/OpenSC/wiki&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve25519&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_1&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_Curve_Digital_Signature_Algorithm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2029" RevisionGUID="ac77b229-ee26-4e41-8f50-8cc8819377bc" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:34:40.223" UserId="273" Text="Background **(may be skipped)**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm owning a desktop computer with a high-end (based on 2010) gaming monitor.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, this monitor doesn't feature speakers.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;This didn't bother me until now, but I'm now primarily using my (external) soundcard + headset on my custom docking station (i.e. two USB-Hubs) for my laptop and don't want to re-plug all this whenever I'm at the desktop.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Besides that there are other people using the desktop that occasionally need sound.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a soundbar to put below my monitor (much you'd do with a TV).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mandatory requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Really low price (30€ or less preferably)&#xD;&#xA; - Relatively compact size (must not be larger than 57 x 18 cm (W x D))&#xD;&#xA; - Sound can be supplied from the PC (USB or 3.5mm audio jack)&#xD;&#xA; - Sound should be understandable (i.e. you can understand what people are talking in a show)&#xD;&#xA; - The soundbar must be only a single device (i.e. no additional bass)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The PSU (of the soundbar) should be internal&#xD;&#xA; - Good sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - High volume capacity&#xD;&#xA; - You should be able to place the monitor on-top of the soundbar" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2029" RevisionGUID="ac77b229-ee26-4e41-8f50-8cc8819377bc" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:34:40.223" UserId="273" Text="(Low End) Soundbar for PC Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2029" RevisionGUID="ac77b229-ee26-4e41-8f50-8cc8819377bc" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:34:40.223" UserId="273" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="28b27630-c47f-42a4-8a2a-7652c2df8f97" CreationDate="2016-02-14T14:16:44.617" UserId="1783" Comment="added 511 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I'm building a new pc for a personal cloud server and I was thinking about buying the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI AM1I&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD Athlon 5350 &#xD;&#xA; - Ram: HyperX Fury Blue DDR3 1600MHz PC3-12800 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - One sata HDD (I will be reusing it and don't remember its specs) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had read that the power supply wattage should be in a certain range and almost all the PSU I have found didn't meet this criteria. i.e. My build has a power usage of 72-94w so a 150w PSU will be optimal but I only found  500w PSUs because of my reduced budget (50€ for the case and PSU)&#xD;&#xA;However, I had found two cases with a PSU that seems good. The first one is a Nox Vexa with a 150w PSU and the other is a Tacens Ixion with a 300w PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy the first, but I'm worried if I could get to fit the CPU fan in it and also if the CPU would have enough ventilation. Also, I'm a bit worried about the noise they can make because I have seen some comments saying that they do pretty noise but, also, some saying that they are very silent.&#xD;&#xA;Should I buy the first, the second or try with a 500w ATX PSU and a case that allow me to use a ATX PSU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="28b27630-c47f-42a4-8a2a-7652c2df8f97" CreationDate="2016-02-14T14:16:44.617" UserId="1783" Comment="added 511 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2031" RevisionGUID="d33785ff-54e2-4502-a4b5-38981fcd16e4" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:21:42.770" UserId="1796" Text="I'm looking for a Dumb TV or basically a flat panel monitor with built in speakers. Would want it to be somewhere between 15&quot; to 20&quot;. Just want something that I can use in my workshop shop or tote around the yard when I'm working or hanging outside. We cut the cord with our Cable Provider about a year back so I if it has or doesn't have a TV tuner doesn't matter. I'd be using this with a Chromecast so it needs to have HDMI input and a powered USB port would be ideal. Anyone have any recommendations on something like this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2031" RevisionGUID="d33785ff-54e2-4502-a4b5-38981fcd16e4" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:21:42.770" UserId="1796" Text="Dumb TV or Monitor with speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2031" RevisionGUID="d33785ff-54e2-4502-a4b5-38981fcd16e4" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:21:42.770" UserId="1796" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="83373f65-cbb5-402f-ae5f-4ded06413044" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:48:14.210" UserId="1783" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="I'm building a new pc for a personal cloud server and I was thinking about buying the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI AM1I&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD Athlon 5350 &#xD;&#xA; - Ram: HyperX Fury Blue DDR3 1600MHz PC3-12800 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - One sata HDD (I will be reusing it and don't remember its specs) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had read that the power supply wattage should be in a certain range and almost all the PSU I have found didn't meet this criteria. i.e. My build has a power usage of 72-94w so a 150w PSU will be optimal but I only found  500w PSUs because of my reduced budget (50€ for the case and PSU)&#xD;&#xA;However, I had found two cases with a PSU that seems good. The first one is a Nox Vexa with a 150w PSU and the other is a Tacens Ixion with a 300w PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy the first, but I'm worried if I could get to fit the CPU fan in it and also if the CPU would have enough ventilation. Also, I'm a bit worried about the noise they can make because I have seen some comments saying that they do pretty noise but, also, some saying that they are very silent.&#xD;&#xA;Should I buy the first, the second or try with a 500w ATX PSU and a case that allow me to use it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7503" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="bf6eb6b3-29fc-4ba4-8e3c-277c63112e09" CreationDate="2016-02-14T22:53:23.067" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7505" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2010" RevisionGUID="fa918b81-fa41-4ba8-826a-bf8c21b07a95" CreationDate="2016-02-15T00:48:11.063" UserId="1459" Comment="Current spec not appropriate b/c QC's multiple voltage levels" Text="I'm looking for a reasonably priced USB hub to use primarily as a charging station.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - entirely USB 3.0 so that it may also function as a modern USB hub&#xD;&#xA; - at least 4 ports with Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0&#xD;&#xA; - power output sufficient to utilize all Quick Charge ports simultaneously (10W each)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2034" RevisionGUID="4e4e4eac-22c2-4bd0-927c-f1d71e46d9e2" CreationDate="2016-02-15T02:12:23.450" UserId="912" Text="I recommend the Lenovo Y50. It has a GTX 960M, which is a relatively powerful graphics card. It also has a powerful i7 processor and a 1080p screen. It is also one of the most affordable gaming laptop at around US$800." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2036" RevisionGUID="47ec01d2-610b-45d2-907e-61362e66a2bb" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:19:52.617" UserId="1800" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I'm in the market for a new gaming laptop. Because you can't easily upgrade the components in laptops, I'd ideally like to buy one that has the potential to run VR. However, my day to day needs do not demand that much GPU power, so I'd like to buy the minimum hardware spec I can get away with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I could wait until the headsets come out and a new generation of GPUs is around to support them, but I'd prefer to make the purchase now if possible, as it'll save me a bit of tax.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've done a bit of research and my understanding is that Oculus are suggesting desktop grade GTX970 is the minimum. That would suggest that a 980M ought, in practice, to be able to support an Oculus Rift. However, I believe I'm right in saying that the 980M is still integrated rather than a separate board, and that it uses Nvidia Optimus. To be frank, I don't entirely understand what this is, nor why it's a problem for VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also know that there's a new desktop grade 980 out, suitable for laptops. This is expensive and doesn't have wide distribution. I also don't know whether this is board mounted/uses optimus or not. I also don't know if it's G-Sync enabled, as this seems to be a good idea for VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was originally looking at the Asus ROG G752VT as it seems to offer excellent value for money. But it's got a 970M, which I suspect isn't going to be enough and is going to run into the optimus problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the baseline question is: what's the mininum specification I need to get a laptop-ready VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points if you'd be kind enough to break this down into:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - What's Nvidia Optimus and why is it a problem for VR?&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Is the &quot;desktop&quot; 980 significantly better for VR than the 980M, and&#xD;&#xA;   is it Optimus/G-Sync/separate card?&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Will my preferred option of the Asus ROG be enough, at a push, for a&#xD;&#xA;   Rift?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2036" RevisionGUID="47ec01d2-610b-45d2-907e-61362e66a2bb" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:19:52.617" UserId="1800" Text="What's the minimum hardware spec needed for a VR ready laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2036" RevisionGUID="47ec01d2-610b-45d2-907e-61362e66a2bb" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:19:52.617" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="e6cbc5f2-0dd9-4294-baae-33521cd5fbd1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:10:24.197" UserId="1802" Text="I am looking for a DVR like product capable of following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can connect to various CCTV cameras (with a standard BNC output)&#xD;&#xA;- downloading of historical data can be performed remotely (nightly) over a secured channel (SFTP, SSH etc.) from a distant location over IP network, the format should be preferably chunks of some standard video format like mp4 with H.264 codec&#xD;&#xA;- supports options to embed real-time video output into a custom web page or windows app&#xD;&#xA;- supports good motion detection and good quality with options (ideally storing both motion detected scenes and the whole time separately)&#xD;&#xA;- it would be nice to have a good metadata about videos created, so that output recordings time vs. motion detection could be created programatically&#xD;&#xA;- can be setup to delete old recordings automatically or programatically&#xD;&#xA;- provides option to connect external monitor to show real-time cameras' pictures on site&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering creating an intranet video surveillance server. So I am looking for a DVR with good automation options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="e6cbc5f2-0dd9-4294-baae-33521cd5fbd1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:10:24.197" UserId="1802" Text="One DVR device to stnadardize video surveillance on multiple sites" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="e6cbc5f2-0dd9-4294-baae-33521cd5fbd1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:10:24.197" UserId="1802" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="b063d825-a1b3-4627-8a2a-7e9a8d007769" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:24:43.747" UserId="1802" Comment="edited title" Text="One DVR device to standardize video surveillance on multiple sites" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="4b518a18-89db-454e-bd7c-fab3c5d81a70" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:54:18.697" UserId="1802" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a DVR like product capable of following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can connect to various CCTV cameras (with a standard BNC output)&#xD;&#xA;- downloading of historical data can be performed remotely (nightly) over a secured channel (SFTP, SSH, Windows share etc.), eventually less secure FTP etc. from a distant location over IP network, the format should be preferably chunks of some standard video format like mp4 with H.264 codec&#xD;&#xA;- supports options to embed real-time video output into a custom web page or windows app&#xD;&#xA;- supports good motion detection and good quality with options (ideally storing both motion detected scenes and the whole time separately)&#xD;&#xA;- it would be nice to have a good metadata about videos created, so that output recordings time vs. motion detection could be created programatically&#xD;&#xA;- can be setup to delete old recordings automatically or programatically&#xD;&#xA;- provides option to connect external monitor to show real-time cameras' pictures on site&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering creating an intranet video surveillance server. So I am looking for a DVR with good automation options. Ideally with video surveillance server software option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2039" RevisionGUID="d84a88a1-2172-4735-afc8-2fcbb2833068" CreationDate="2016-02-15T15:58:30.980" UserId="1806" Text="Personally speaking, the power supplies that come with cases are normally not very good. I tend to buy just standard ATX PSU's for my builds. They are very quiet. I don't think you will be drawing enough power to make it kick in the fans on full mode but you should be fine with either option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my freeNAS server, I have a Corsair 500w power supply. Whisper quiet. The only noise that comes from the tower is the CPU fan." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2040" RevisionGUID="a5bdcecf-e5ce-494f-9e41-8b176f4e08c0" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:17:36.463" UserId="1807" Text="I need to locate a Tizen TV running at least version 1400 for work purposes. It needs to be Tizen because I intend to write Apps for Tizen. It needs to be at least version 1400 because that is where developer mode is accessible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is deceptively difficult to locate an acceptable device. We purchased a device already that was advertised with Tizen to test with. However, it does not update beyond version 1106.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device we tried was UE32J4570SS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2040" RevisionGUID="a5bdcecf-e5ce-494f-9e41-8b176f4e08c0" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:17:36.463" UserId="1807" Text="The cheapest Samsung Smart TV running Tizen with at least firmware version 1400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2040" RevisionGUID="a5bdcecf-e5ce-494f-9e41-8b176f4e08c0" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:17:36.463" UserId="1807" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="c9f86a3d-f427-4c29-804c-856233a34ee9" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:08:47.083" UserId="1808" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="c9f86a3d-f427-4c29-804c-856233a34ee9" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:08:47.083" UserId="1808" Text="Where to buy a cpu featuring intel iris 550 or 580?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="c9f86a3d-f427-4c29-804c-856233a34ee9" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:08:47.083" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="7579529e-72a9-468f-986d-156c3a7c9eea" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:35:31.970" UserId="1808" Comment="added 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="7579529e-72a9-468f-986d-156c3a7c9eea" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:35:31.970" UserId="1808" Comment="added 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="Where to buy a cpu featuring intel iris 550 or 580 in France?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="2daa4172-e5ed-4cc2-8668-94315e56702c" CreationDate="2016-02-15T19:35:31.680" UserId="1808" Comment="edited title; edited title; edited title" Text="motherboard featuring intel iris 540 or 550 or 580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="3c613ff0-2e72-45f5-91a3-c20151d65897" CreationDate="2016-02-15T19:46:12.040" UserId="1808" Comment="added 114 characters in body; added 1 character in body; added 59 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France.&#xA;&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the cpu is fused with the motherboard *(no socket)*. Except if I'm wrong." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="d2ef2439-0bb2-4bf4-a60e-bb48c2e31e5c" CreationDate="2016-02-16T00:55:47.987" UserId="1808" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France.&#xA;&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the socket is bga only *(no socket)*. Except if I'm wrong." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2043" RevisionGUID="e0725fb1-ed5c-4c88-8427-eaf48fdbc118" CreationDate="2016-02-16T01:00:54.900" UserId="912" Text="As khmer11 said, the PSUs in cases are terrible. A 150w - 300w PSU will be optimal and be at peak efficiency, but a 400-500w PSU will still work well. If you choose the 150w - 300w PSU then you will be limited if you do any upgrades (e.g. change to a more powerful CPU or add a GPU) but it you will be fine if you choose the 400 - 500w PSU. Another thing you should look for when choosing PSU is the efficiency rating. I recommend at least 80 Plus Bronze rating since it is a good combination of good efficiency, value and durability. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="7133f2f9-24dc-4470-92a6-1232e81d0082" CreationDate="2016-02-16T01:12:22.120" UserId="1808" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France. *(many intel cpu models are not sold here)*&#xA;&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the socket is bga only *(no socket)*. Except if I'm wrong." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2044" RevisionGUID="103a1441-6b1f-45c3-8f75-4c7f37ec4bf1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T01:56:16.460" UserId="912" Text="Nvidia Optimus is a technology that allows automatic switching between the Nvidia GPU and the integrated GPU. This allows less power to be used when less GPU intensive programs are used. This is not a factor that effects VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum recommended requirement is the GTX 970 GPU, this is less powerful than the 980M and more powerful than the 970M. Since VR requires extremely stable framerate, running at less than minimum requirements can make the experience less enjoyable and can cause motion sickness. So I would recommend a 980M." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2045" RevisionGUID="7c431564-cdb1-4420-a438-9a36b2264332" CreationDate="2016-02-16T05:47:54.360" UserId="1812" Text="I'm new to SSD, After doing some research i end up with 2 models ADATA SP550 120GB and Samsung EVO 120GB. ADATA seems to be a TLC NAND Flash which is low in endurance but i have no idea about EVO(Could be TLC/MLC). But both are of 3-bit/cell flash memory. Please suggest me a good one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2045" RevisionGUID="7c431564-cdb1-4420-a438-9a36b2264332" CreationDate="2016-02-16T05:47:54.360" UserId="1812" Text="Which one I should go for, ADATA SP550 120GB vs Samsung EVO 120GB SSD's?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2045" RevisionGUID="7c431564-cdb1-4420-a438-9a36b2264332" CreationDate="2016-02-16T05:47:54.360" UserId="1812" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2046" RevisionGUID="6486f9ac-655f-4c2b-8cf5-516055ea2408" CreationDate="2016-02-16T06:48:17.000" UserId="1366" Text="If you want VR ready notebook it has to have Nvidia GeForce GTX980, so it will be top end notebook. **Asus ROG G752VT isn't VR Ready** because it has GTX970M and this GPU does not support VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would choose one of MSI top end notebooks which cost around $3000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $3099 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomPro4K-059][2] (this one have 4K display, but less RAM memory 16BG)&#xD;&#xA; - $2999 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomProG-070][3] (this one have Full HD display and 32 GB RAM memory)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rMWp8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154101&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2046" RevisionGUID="671dca8c-e82f-41f5-8494-15c853ffe5b9" CreationDate="2016-02-16T07:04:30.913" UserId="1366" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="If you want VR ready notebook it has to have Nvidia GeForce GTX980, so it will be top end notebook. **Asus ROG G752VT isn't VR Ready** because it has GTX970M and this GPU does not support VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would choose one of MSI top end notebooks which cost around $3000 (both are VR Ready). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $3099 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomPro4K-059][2] (this one have 4K display, but less RAM memory 16BG)&#xD;&#xA; - $2999 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomProG-070][3] (this one have Full HD display and 32 GB RAM memory)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rMWp8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154101&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2002" RevisionGUID="1795e1a7-bcaa-47a1-b83b-da0c8d4f9846" CreationDate="2016-02-16T08:16:07.850" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7550" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="a9d3f5bb-c414-4b12-909c-82da332c027a" CreationDate="2016-02-16T08:17:41.123" UserId="155" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7551" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2024" RevisionGUID="4601a7fe-ea3c-4c3f-a1e1-1946277efc3c" CreationDate="2016-02-16T08:30:11.670" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;ventilation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="a31b73fb-98e3-42d1-a19c-ad2dce235050" CreationDate="2016-02-16T10:06:24.887" UserId="1808" Comment="added 324 characters in body; added 1 character in body; added 2 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France. *(many intel cpu models are not sold here)*&#xA;&#xA;#Update&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the available cpu sockets are [bga only](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array) *(no lga based models availaible yet)*. Except if I'm wrong.&#xA;&#xA;So it means while I'm looking for a particular gpu model, the cpu+gpu+motherboard is sold as a single device which can't be ordered into separate parts.  &#xA;This why I specify the requirements of both the cpu and the motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2046" RevisionGUID="708760f2-f3e1-43af-8beb-aaeb1e55abec" CreationDate="2016-02-16T13:02:21.480" UserId="1795" Comment="basic grammar fixes" Text="If you want a VR ready notebook it has to have Nvidia GeForce GTX980, so it will be a top end notebook. **Asus ROG G752VT isn't VR Ready** because it has a GTX970M which does not support VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would choose one of the MSI top end notebooks which cost around $3000 (both are VR Ready). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $3099 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomPro4K-059][2] (this one have 4K display, but less RAM memory 16GB)&#xD;&#xA; - $2999 - [MSI GT Series GT72S DomProG-070][3] (this one have Full HD display and 32 GB RAM memory)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rMWp8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154101&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2046" RevisionGUID="708760f2-f3e1-43af-8beb-aaeb1e55abec" CreationDate="2016-02-16T13:02:21.480" Comment="Proposed by 1795 approved by 1366 edit id of 395" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="92228f3b-4e56-4c15-85c1-4aefd5fc0f73" CreationDate="2016-02-16T13:15:08.753" UserId="1808" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;#Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France. *(many intel cpu models are not sold here)*&#xA;&#xA;#Update&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the available cpu sockets are [bga only](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array) *(no lga based models availaible yet)*. Except if I'm wrong.&#xA;&#xA;So it means while I'm looking for a particular gpu model, the cpu+gpu+motherboard is sold as a single device which can't be ordered into separate parts *(the same way you don't buy a northbridge chipset without a motherboard)*.  &#xA;This why I specify the requirements of both the cpu and the motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2027" RevisionGUID="60610896-7492-433a-9364-e7d761faa289" CreationDate="2016-02-16T14:17:37.447" UserId="1795" Comment="correcting a double negative" Text="There are not many good bluetooth options available, but I've listed out a couple of the best &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Nolan MIC Bluetooth Wireless Microphone - 64$***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;- Range - 100ft(30m)&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life - 6hr(moderate usage)&#xD;&#xA;- Good customer reviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can slightly bump up your price barrier then,&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Sony ECMAW4 Wireless Microphone - 150$*** (can get it for a lot cheaper offline)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- better audio quality &#xD;&#xA;- can pair with other devices like camcorders &#xD;&#xA;- can't pair with phones directly&#xD;&#xA;- great customer reviews&#xD;&#xA;- avg. battery&#xD;&#xA;- Range - 164ft (Sony's claim)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do check all the customer reviews of both the products on amazon and there is also a video about the latter product on its review page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Nolan MIC - amazon page][1]&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;[Sony MIC - amazon page][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009DT424Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B001PKUUF4&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0NJ6K6B2A1MN8SMA8CCZ#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWU6WWO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B001PKUUF4&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0NJ6K6B2A1MN8SMA8CCZ#customerReviews" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2027" RevisionGUID="60610896-7492-433a-9364-e7d761faa289" CreationDate="2016-02-16T14:17:37.447" Comment="Proposed by 1795 approved by 54, 60 edit id of 396" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1993" RevisionGUID="42d4d8ec-80c9-4f7d-a01d-3dc94f611ff4" CreationDate="2016-02-16T19:39:45.460" UserId="57" Comment="add details from comments" Text="Is the AMD still viable?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at a mild upgrade to my existing rig, including video card and memory, not much else.  I'm curious if the 8320 is still adequate considering the reasonable cost of the 6500 Skylake (which is considered pretty good for its price but no overclocking).  I do some gaming, but don't care about 4k or reaching super ultra high whatever.  I plan on a 380x AMD gfx card, so that part should be good to go.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I go the AMD route, I only need to swap CPU, as I currently have an AMD system and compatible MB.  Whereas, going Intel would require new MB, new RAM, and the CPU.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from normal computer usage (internet, email, etc) and playing WoW or BF4, the AMD should be just fine.  Right?  Or would it be best to spend the little extra and go Intel, considering the new platform means I can upgrade the CPU later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using an AMD FX-6100 with a Radeon 6770. Any upgrade is an upgrade. As for budget, I can do the Intel route for about $575 USD or the AMD upgrade for about $400. I really just want to know if the 8320 is still a viable option or just bite the bullet and go all in Intel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="af6b92c3-79ce-4cb3-b724-9046fb631b89" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:34:10.367" UserId="116" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard to replace my old one that's been giving me problems lately (See [this thread][10]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC is used for heavy gaming (All new games running max settings; GTA V, Fallout 4, etc). It's used for a fair amount of video/photo editing as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - AM3+ CPU socket&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is around $130CAD (or about $90USD)&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 header support&#xD;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports on the back (USB2.0 is fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Built in 5.1 surround sound support (No additional sound card needed)&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi, bluetooth, integrated video and PS/2 are *not* required.&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to work with the rest of my components, obviously (See below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD - [Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler - [Cooler Master V8 GTS][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCU - [SeaSonic X Series X-850 (SS-850KM3 Active PFC F3) 850W ATX12V][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD - [Crucial MX100 2.5&quot; 256GB SATA III MLC Internal][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM - [G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - [AMD FX-9590 Vishera 8-Core 4.7 GHz Socket AM3+ 220W - Black Edition][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU - [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tower - [Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition][9] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8UW3GP4298&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6232GM5508&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231473&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7BB3T72010&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487079&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://superuser.com/questions/1027376/custom-built-computer-wont-turn-on-anymore" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="af6b92c3-79ce-4cb3-b724-9046fb631b89" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:34:10.367" UserId="116" Text="AMD gaming motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="af6b92c3-79ce-4cb3-b724-9046fb631b89" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:34:10.367" UserId="116" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2051" RevisionGUID="da367f12-a404-4ba9-8451-5222de5b8b74" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:51:41.917" UserId="595" Text="I have a 15600MAh battery pack that came in one of my devices. Long story short, the controller circuit that charges the batteries was fried in a power outage, but the batteries are still good. I have replaced the device they came in, but I was thinking about re-purposing the batteries for a DIY project. I have several Li-Ion/Li-Po battery balancing/charging circuits, but none of them are made for a configuration like this.  &#xD;&#xA;I need a good Li-Ion battery charging board for this battery pack, any ideas?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a pic of the battery pack (I did not solder them together, they came like that):&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a multi-meter capable of measuring Amps, but I estimate the batteries to put out a total of around 3A, and I get a voltage reading of about 4.5V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yvwoz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2051" RevisionGUID="da367f12-a404-4ba9-8451-5222de5b8b74" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:51:41.917" UserId="595" Text="5V, ~3A - 18650 li-ion battery bundle charger/balancer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2051" RevisionGUID="da367f12-a404-4ba9-8451-5222de5b8b74" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:51:41.917" UserId="595" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2052" RevisionGUID="4ed572bc-8d36-45ae-824a-3373fcf719c0" CreationDate="2016-02-17T02:28:11.063" UserId="1820" Text="I was looking for a cheap x86 machine for assembly development and other hackery and I was wondering if such a system exists. The system must meet the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under $100 including price of memory.&#xD;&#xA; - Must not be a compute stick or **must be able to run headless**.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to run non-custom Linux distributions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2052" RevisionGUID="4ed572bc-8d36-45ae-824a-3373fcf719c0" CreationDate="2016-02-17T02:28:11.063" UserId="1820" Text="Cheapest x86 machine?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2052" RevisionGUID="4ed572bc-8d36-45ae-824a-3373fcf719c0" CreationDate="2016-02-17T02:28:11.063" UserId="1820" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2053" RevisionGUID="e9017083-5e09-4bf0-b9d2-e7b9b45c8c65" CreationDate="2016-02-17T04:56:59.893" UserId="595" Text="There are several developers working towards this right now! Unfortunately most of these projects are still in the &quot;Crowdfunding&quot; or &quot;Pre-order&quot; stages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One promising board, the &quot;UP-Board&quot; currently on Pre-Order: http://www.up-board.org/  &#xD;&#xA;-$99  &#xD;&#xA;-2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-16GB EMMC memory  &#xD;&#xA;-Intel processor (Compatible with Windows 8.1/10, Unknown if compatible with Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another promising board, the &quot;Lattepanda&quot; currently still in the Pre-Order stage [located here][1]  &#xD;&#xA;-$89  &#xD;&#xA;-2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-32GB EMMC memory  &#xD;&#xA;-Intel atom (quad-core) processor (Compatible with Windows 8.1/10, Linux various)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honorable mentions:  &#xD;&#xA;-[MinnowbardMAX][2]  &#xD;&#xA;-[JaguarBoard][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a board that is currently available at your price point and also X86, you are out of luck. However, if you upped your price point by between $50-$100, you'd find some neat boards [on Amazon][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NOTE: I am involved with the Lattepanda project as a backer, however I do not own or operate it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/search&amp;description=true&amp;search=lattepanda&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://wiki.minnowboard.org/MinnowBoard_MAX&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/263025908/jaguarboard-x86-based-single-board-computer/description&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_36_3?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Ck%3Aintel%20nuc%2Cp_36%3A1253506011&amp;keywords=intel%20nuc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455684841&amp;rnid=386442011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2054" RevisionGUID="380bc278-f2a6-4f33-bbd7-10f313730ae2" CreationDate="2016-02-17T05:04:11.907" UserId="595" Text="Asus ROG GL752VW-DH71-HID1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-£940.52  &#xD;&#xA;-CPU: 6th Generation &quot;Skylake&quot; Intel® CoreTM i7-6700HQ Quad Core Processor, 2.6-3.6 GHz  &#xD;&#xA;-GPU: nVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M 128bit w/ 2GB GDDR5  &#xD;&#xA;-RAM: 16GB 2133MHz DDR4, Hard Drive: 1TB 7200RPM HDD &#xD;&#xA;-DISPLAY: 17.3&quot; IPS FHD Antiglare, 1920x1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[On Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-ROG-GL752VW-DH71-HID1-i7-6700HQ-2-6-3-5GHz/dp/B017LUXVFM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455685142&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=asus%20rog" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2055" RevisionGUID="30a7466c-8325-44d6-a378-4c8e553c33bd" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:04:25.520" UserId="1658" Text="The lights will be on I'll curl up in a ball on a bed and begin to fall asleep. For some reason, sometimes I fall asleep better when the lights are on. However, if I get up to turn off the lights, I usually lose that warm/cozy/comfortable feeling and have trouble falling asleep. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My quality of sleep is much better when all of the lights are off. If I don't turn off all the lights, I often don't feel very rested the morning after. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Eventually, I'd like to have small/lightweight/comfortable to the touch handheld device that I can temporarily fasten to my wrist/loop around my wrist that can turn off all the lights including miscellaneous lights indicating that a laptop is charging/ethernet wire lights etc say within 3 seconds and have the light bulbs dim slowly during those 3 seconds as they turn off.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Now my gut instinct is that someone will or has made a clever smartphone app to do this. So in that situation the hardware would be your smartphone. There's a few reasons why I'd be hesitant if a smartphone solution to this came along and here's why. Feel free to address them:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Plenty of smartphones are slippery- I don't think you could tie a&#xD;&#xA;    smartphone to your hand comfortably &#xD;&#xA; 2. The heat your body under the covers might not be good for the&#xD;&#xA;    smartphone&#xD;&#xA; 3. Could pretty easily knock the smartphone off the bed onto the floor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;When I was a little boy, sometimes my parents would see that I had fallen asleep and turn off the lights -&gt; Things would work great then. Perhaps I'm going about this wrong and there is actually hardware for the lights in your room to know that you have fallen asleep? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2055" RevisionGUID="30a7466c-8325-44d6-a378-4c8e553c33bd" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:04:25.520" UserId="1658" Text="One handed controller to turn off all lights in room that can be tied to wrist" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2055" RevisionGUID="30a7466c-8325-44d6-a378-4c8e553c33bd" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:04:25.520" UserId="1658" Text="&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2060" RevisionGUID="82ba4e4c-4363-4182-bc9d-cb306c907d6d" CreationDate="2016-02-17T17:25:58.237" UserId="595" Text="Most microcontroller boards less than $20 do not have Bluetooth/Wifi/Eth, or LCD ports. The Raspberry Pi is your best bet, but if you need something a bit cheaper with the same capabilities, I'd look at the [PINE A64][1], Currently on pre-order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$15 gets you:  &#xD;&#xA;-64bit Quad Core ARM A53 1.2GHz CPU  &#xD;&#xA;-512MB DDR3 SDRAM  &#xD;&#xA;-MicroSD Slot Supports up to 256GB  &#xD;&#xA;-10/100 Mb Ethernet port  &#xD;&#xA;-2 x USB 2.0 host  &#xD;&#xA;-4K x 2K HDMI port  &#xD;&#xA;-3.5mm Stereo Output mini-jack with Microphone Support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the integrated LCD panel port, you will need to upgrade to the $19 model. It also adds:  &#xD;&#xA;-1GB RAM instead of 512MB  &#xD;&#xA;-4-lane MIPI video port port (LCD)  &#xD;&#xA;-Touchscreen port  &#xD;&#xA;-1000MB ethernet  &#xD;&#xA;-5MP Camera port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pine64.com/product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="732" RevisionGUID="8ce749c2-6e95-4605-8e12-fc389933dfd9" CreationDate="2016-02-17T17:51:58.700" UserId="155" Comment="added info from comment" Text="**Problem**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a portable device which should fullfill my following requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Device should be able to connect and communicate with bluetooth devices.&#xD;&#xA;2. Device should be able to connect to internet. First preference is wifi connection, but as a fallback mechanism, ethernet will also work.&#xD;&#xA;3. I should be able to run Node.js server on it. This server will be very light weight, wont need much RAM and computing resources.&#xD;&#xA;4. Less than $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, after reading few resources i found, Raspberry pi gives me all such features, but only issue with Raspberry pi is that it has many other feature also (camera port, HDMI, etc) which add significant amount to its cost. Since i need device for commercial purpose, so i need to make it cost effective as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can somebody suggest me some available readymade options ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for device to control some lighting stuff. These device should be used as a gateway and needs to be installed in customer premises. So, thats why these devices should be either a chip/small size board." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="14189c5e-54d3-4af7-8d23-18f38710721a" CreationDate="2016-02-18T07:39:59.417" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="045363c1-1e0d-403b-bede-0a4e5471dc6f" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:06:45.947" UserId="1366" Text="I want to upgrade my PC and I don't know which path should I choose. I want raise performance in games and be able to OC my PC which is not possible now because I have blocked CPU (without K). All my parts were bought to fit [Rajintek Metis][1] case but it was to hot inside and I changed my case to [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2] which is much larger, has better air flow and can fit bigger GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1920 x 1080 but I may buy 4K monitor in near future&#xD;&#xA; - what do I play: newest titles without first person shooters&#xD;&#xA; - budget: ~$400 but I want to choose upgrade which will give **best performance per spent dollar**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My actual setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-4690][3]&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z87I GAMING AC][4]&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Gigabyte GTX960 ITX 2GB][5]&#xD;&#xA; - PSU: [Thermaltake Smart SE 530W][6]&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB][7]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU COOLER: [Pkanteks PH-TC14S][8]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 200 mm intake fan provided with case&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 3 x [NZXT FN V2 (140 mm)][9] exaust fans (2 x top, 1 x rear) &#xD;&#xA; - FAN controller: [NZXT GRID+ V2][10] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which of paths listed below will be the best choice ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 1:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheapest way. Only upgrade GPU &amp; RAM. No OC possibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][11] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][12] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$250**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the most probable upgrade for me. It will upgrade my GPU and give me possibility to overclock my CPU with upgrading it to i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i7-4790K][13] ~$390&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][11] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][12] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$360**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 3:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade only GPU but to GTX 980. Will my not overclocked i5 4690 be a bottleneck for this card ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Asus GTX 980 DC2 OC Strix][14] ~$600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 4:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade to Skylake it will be the most expensive, so I'm not sure if this upgrade is worth this price. To fit budget range I have to resign from i7 (to i5) and 16 GB RAM (to 8GB) and it's still $45 more expensive than Haswell upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: ~$90&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-6600K][15] ~$280&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC][16] ~$175&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][11] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x4GB, 3200MHz, CL16][17] ~$70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$405**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's really hard choice for me which path will be the best for spent dollar? In addition I have to ask if my PSU will be enough for all this configurations or should I add PSU with more power to this four paths ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=17&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80810/Intel-Core-i5-4690-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5369#ov&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.thermaltake.com/This/Smart_Series_/Smart_SE/C_00001964/Smart_SE_530W/design.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/blt8g3d1608dt1tx0ceu&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14S.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/fn-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/GRID-Plus-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.msi.com/product/graphics-card/GTX-970-4GD5T-OC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/MEMORYMODULES/OVERCLOCKING/DDR3/Vulcan%20DDR3%202400&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/STRIXGTX980DC2OC4GD5/&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z170I-GAMING-PRO-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f4-3200c16d-8gvkb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="045363c1-1e0d-403b-bede-0a4e5471dc6f" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:06:45.947" UserId="1366" Text="Upgrade path to raise performance in games" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="045363c1-1e0d-403b-bede-0a4e5471dc6f" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:06:45.947" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="37e6602a-0e0e-41c7-8586-ef333279571b" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:36:13.377" UserId="1366" Comment="added 241 characters in body" Text="I want to upgrade my PC and I don't know which path should I choose. I want raise performance in games and be able to OC my PC which is not possible now because I have blocked CPU (without K). All my parts were bought to fit [Rajintek Metis][1] case but it was to hot inside and I changed my case to [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2] which is much larger, has better air flow and can fit bigger GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1920 x 1080 but I may buy 4K monitor in near future&#xD;&#xA; - what do I play: newest titles without first person shooters&#xD;&#xA; - budget: ~$400 but I want to choose upgrade which will give **best performance per spent dollar**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My actual setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-4690][3]&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z87I GAMING AC][4]&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Gigabyte GTX960 ITX 2GB][5]&#xD;&#xA; - PSU: [Thermaltake Smart SE 530W][6]&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB][7]&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: [WD 1TB Blue][8]&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: [Crucial MX100 128GB][9]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU COOLER: [Pkanteks PH-TC14S][10]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 200 mm intake fan provided with case&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 3 x [NZXT FN V2 (140 mm)][11] exaust fans (2 x top, 1 x rear) &#xD;&#xA; - FAN controller: [NZXT GRID+ V2][12] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which of paths listed below will be the best choice ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 1:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheapest way. Only upgrade GPU &amp; RAM. No OC possibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][14] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$250**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the most probable upgrade for me. It will upgrade my GPU and give me possibility to overclock my CPU with upgrading it to i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i7-4790K][15] ~$390&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][14] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$360**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 3:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade only GPU but to GTX 980. Will my not overclocked i5 4690 be a bottleneck for this card ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Asus GTX 980 DC2 OC Strix][16] ~$600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 4:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade to Skylake it will be the most expensive, so I'm not sure if this upgrade is worth this price. To fit budget range I have to resign from i7 (to i5) and 16 GB RAM (to 8GB) and it's still $45 more expensive than Haswell upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: ~$90&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-6600K][17] ~$280&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC][18] ~$175&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x4GB, 3200MHz, CL16][19] ~$70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$405**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's really hard choice for me which path will be the best for spent dollar? In addition I have to ask if my PSU will be enough for all this configurations or should I add PSU with more power to this four paths ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=17&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80810/Intel-Core-i5-4690-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5369#ov&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.thermaltake.com/This/Smart_Series_/Smart_SE/C_00001964/Smart_SE_530W/design.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/blt8g3d1608dt1tx0ceu&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=770#Tab3&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/storage-ssd-mx100?cm_re=top-nav-_-flyout-ssd-_-us-ssd-learn-about-mx100&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14S.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/fn-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/GRID-Plus-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://www.msi.com/product/graphics-card/GTX-970-4GD5T-OC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/MEMORYMODULES/OVERCLOCKING/DDR3/Vulcan%20DDR3%202400&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/STRIXGTX980DC2OC4GD5/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [18]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z170I-GAMING-PRO-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [19]: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f4-3200c16d-8gvkb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2062" RevisionGUID="a2b73b93-302e-4c16-89b5-f63f26728ff7" CreationDate="2016-02-18T10:12:36.147" UserId="1828" Text="I am currently on the lookout for an affordable computer monitor with a high refresh rate, starting at 120Hz, but preferably higher. The reason why I need a high refresh rate is that I need to control the duration of images that are displayed in psychological experiments with high temporal fidelity. For example, with 60Hz the smallest possible step change is 16.6 ms. Instead, I am in the search of a time resolution that is closer to 1 ms. (A standard display size is sufficient, as most stimuli are presented within 0-7 degrees of the visual angle with most stimuli around 2 degrees.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2062" RevisionGUID="a2b73b93-302e-4c16-89b5-f63f26728ff7" CreationDate="2016-02-18T10:12:36.147" UserId="1828" Text="A computer monitor with a high refresh rate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2062" RevisionGUID="a2b73b93-302e-4c16-89b5-f63f26728ff7" CreationDate="2016-02-18T10:12:36.147" UserId="1828" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2064" RevisionGUID="ae9c6a3b-cf69-4633-9805-a67dc13a7033" CreationDate="2016-02-18T14:47:42.360" UserId="531" Text="I'm currently doing 4k gaming - a 980TI is probably the most *sensible* option - its 90% of the performance of this generation's titan at 75% of the cost *stock* but I'd wait for the next generation if possible. On one hand they promise massive improvements. On the other hand, last gen hardware is cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do I base this on?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a ivy bridge core i7 with 16 gb of ram. I'm *rarely* ram or CPU throttled. I do have a 980ti which performs *adequately* for my needs. That said I don't seem to think I hit the limits of my video card ram, and I seem to have *some* headroom with my GPU with most games, and I usually turn it up *past* the nvidia recommended settings. .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My advice would be to do a video card upgrade, but to wait a bit. If you must buy one *now*, while its pricy, a 980TI is likely your best option for dx11, single card gaming. That said, the next generation should have similar performance or better, and there's a few new interesting technologies - smaller process sizes and Ram varients that might make it worth the wait. Don't get me wrong, my current card is *glorious* but we should be seeing things like HBM *this year* on most cards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, things may change soon - AMD's cards are doing *really* well at dx12 (and there's big price cuts on the high end R9s), and vulcan's coming out. And of course new cards promising more performance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2065" RevisionGUID="dc9f6556-ee56-4e4b-b18a-06f273ce3a9d" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:30:16.520" UserId="279" Text="My work computer is very slow, and so I am looking to upgrade some of the parts. I have the intel i5-4440 that I'm going to put in it, but this CPU is not compatible with my current motherboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the slightly esoteric requirement: I work with programming [EtherCAT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EtherCAT) boards over an Ethernet port, and I also like to use Ethernet for my internet connection. Unfortunately, my current motherboard only has one Ethernet port, and no wifi card. This means I will frequently switch out my Ethernet cord from the router to the board I'm working on, and it's very annoying to have to pick between an internet connection and talking to the board I'm working on. (I suppose a better solution would be to buy a wifi card, but I'd like to keep the Ethernet connection if I can)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with the i5 4440 CPU, DDR3 RAM and the GTX 610 GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mini ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Relatively cheap. I'm thinking around 70 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be awesome, but I could settle for 2.0 if I had to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any strong brand or appearance preferences. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2065" RevisionGUID="dc9f6556-ee56-4e4b-b18a-06f273ce3a9d" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:30:16.520" UserId="279" Text="Motherboard for work computer with 2-Ethernet ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2065" RevisionGUID="dc9f6556-ee56-4e4b-b18a-06f273ce3a9d" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:30:16.520" UserId="279" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1969" RevisionGUID="b45cc348-6307-480f-ac8c-4989bd47dac0" CreationDate="2016-02-18T18:30:01.197" UserId="1734" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="a) If you feel like spending then something like [MIT's inFORM][1] would be suitable for you (basically what you've asked for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Look at braille &quot;monitors&quot;, but that's far from what you've asked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c) You could build one yourself if you have time but no money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About choice c: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use standard (not LED) light bulbs (there are really small ones available too, like 3mm diameter ones), set them up in a 10x10 array. Light up the ones that need to form the display using a display controller, meaning a blind person can sense the heat generated by the bulbs. To control the bulbs you can use a microcontroller like Arduino Mega and send the characters to it with a PC program via USB. It would in overall cost you about ~50$ (plus 20$ for a uber cheap soldering iron) but hours of time, soldering together the array, programming the arduino and creating the desktop program will take respectively about 10h, 20h and 30h (about 60 work hours in total) if you have **never** done something like that ever and need to learn it all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tangible.media.mit.edu/project/inform/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="1e42858f-9215-44c0-bca2-d1afeb1f3ea3" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:23:10.200" UserId="279" Comment="added tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="1e42858f-9215-44c0-bca2-d1afeb1f3ea3" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:23:10.200" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 399" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2067" RevisionGUID="150a3586-8432-428e-9f1a-4b9abd8ff1d2" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:00:10.590" UserId="595" Text="[MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what you get with a $45.99 price tag:  &#xD;&#xA;-6 USB ports (4x2.0, 2x3.0)  &#xD;&#xA;-Compatible with Core i7 / i5 / i3 / Pentium / Celeron (LGA1150)  &#xD;&#xA;-DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066 RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-MicroATX (I assume you meant this instead of **Mini-ITX**)  &#xD;&#xA;-One Ethernet port (you won't find a motherboard with two at less than $250)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a standard PCIx connector, which should fit most common Graphics cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130731" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2065" RevisionGUID="e881faae-0d40-41c6-93fa-8ca579a7b90b" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:02:37.530" UserId="279" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="My work computer is very slow, and so I am looking to upgrade some of the parts. I have the intel i5-4440 that I'm going to put in it, but this CPU is not compatible with my current motherboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the slightly esoteric requirement: I work with programming [EtherCAT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EtherCAT) boards over an Ethernet port, and I also like to use Ethernet for my internet connection. Unfortunately, my current motherboard only has one Ethernet port, and no wifi card. This means I will frequently switch out my Ethernet cord from the router to the board I'm working on, and it's very annoying to have to pick between an internet connection and talking to the board I'm working on. (I suppose a better solution would be to buy a wifi card, but I'd like to keep the Ethernet connection if I can)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with the i5 4440 CPU, DDR3 RAM and the GTX 610 GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Micro ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Relatively cheap. I'm thinking around 70 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be awesome, but I could settle for 2.0 if I had to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any strong brand or appearance preferences. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2067" RevisionGUID="1d12b684-492a-4ebf-a49c-198c7f76839e" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:05:55.693" UserId="595" Comment="added 513 characters in body" Text="[MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what you get with a $45.99 price tag:  &#xD;&#xA;-6 USB ports (4x2.0, 2x3.0)  &#xD;&#xA;-Compatible with Core i7 / i5 / i3 / Pentium / Celeron (LGA1150)  &#xD;&#xA;-DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066 RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-MicroATX (I don't know of many modern MiniATX motherboards)  &#xD;&#xA;-One Ethernet port (you won't find a motherboard with two at less than $250)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a standard PCIx connector, which should fit most common Graphics cards. Also, you did not specify the socket for the i5 you have, but [according to Intel][3] it uses the LGA1150 connector, which this board comes with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your dual network requirements, might I suggest this nifty [150Mbs USB WiFi adapter][4] from Amazon. It is very compatible, and just about as good as you'll get under $10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130731&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2067" RevisionGUID="8b6bfd24-ddc7-49e3-b1bc-04d35e9c50c6" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:11:58.520" UserId="595" Comment="deleted 51 characters in body" Text="[MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what you get with a $45.99 price tag:  &#xD;&#xA;-6 USB ports (4x2.0, 2x3.0)  &#xD;&#xA;-Compatible with Core i7 / i5 / i3 / Pentium / Celeron (LGA1150)  &#xD;&#xA;-DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066 RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-MicroATX  &#xD;&#xA;-One Ethernet port (you won't find a motherboard with two at less than $250)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a standard PCIx connector, which should fit most common Graphics cards. Also, you did not specify the socket for the i5 you have, but [according to Intel][3] it uses the LGA1150 connector, which this board comes with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your dual network requirements, might I suggest this nifty [150Mbs USB WiFi adapter][4] from Amazon. It is very compatible, and just about as good as you'll get under $10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130731&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2067" RevisionGUID="53c7a131-c77c-4c0b-af97-ecdb0d8b0dbd" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:22:25.413" UserId="595" Comment="added 412 characters in body" Text="[MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what you get with a $45.99 price tag:  &#xD;&#xA;-6 USB ports (4x2.0, 2x3.0)  &#xD;&#xA;-Compatible with Core i7 / i5 / i3 / Pentium / Celeron (LGA1150)  &#xD;&#xA;-DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066 RAM  &#xD;&#xA;-MicroATX  &#xD;&#xA;-One Ethernet port (you won't find a motherboard with two at less than $250)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a standard PCIx connector, which should fit most common Graphics cards. Also, you did not specify the socket for the i5 you have, but [according to Intel][2] it uses the LGA1150 connector, which this board comes with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your dual network requirements, might I suggest this nifty [150Mbs USB WiFi adapter][3] or this [USB 2.0 to Ethernet][4] adapter from Amazon. They are very compatible, and just about as good as you'll get under $10. For another $7, you can get a [USB 3.0 to Ethernet][5] adapter for a much faster 1000Mbs over the 100Mbs of the USB 2.0 adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130731&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=twister_B00CU1M442?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455833813&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb%20ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="7a98201a-6d8e-48a3-8fd0-fcf812f16cd1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:42:07.527" UserId="116" Comment="added 273 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard to replace my old one that's been giving me problems lately (See [this thread][10]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC is used for heavy gaming (All new games running max settings; GTA V, Fallout 4, etc). It's used for a fair amount of video/photo editing as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - AM3+ CPU socket&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is around $150USD&#xA; - USB 3.0 header support&#xD;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports on the back (USB2.0 is fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Built in 5.1 surround sound support (No additional sound card needed)&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi, bluetooth, integrated video and PS/2 are *not* required.&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to work with the rest of my components, obviously (See below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD - [Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler - [Cooler Master V8 GTS][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCU - [SeaSonic X Series X-850 (SS-850KM3 Active PFC F3) 850W ATX12V][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD - [Crucial MX100 2.5&quot; 256GB SATA III MLC Internal][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM - [G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - [AMD FX-9590 Vishera 8-Core 4.7 GHz Socket AM3+ 220W - Black Edition][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU - [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tower - [Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition][9] &#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**Update:**&#xA;&#xA;I raised my budget to 150usd,  that would probably be a more logical budget for a decent board. I'm also flexible on the price,  if it's more expensive than my budget,  but is an overall better choice,  then go ahead and suggest it. As long as it's not way out of the budget. &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8UW3GP4298&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6232GM5508&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231473&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7BB3T72010&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487079&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://superuser.com/questions/1027376/custom-built-computer-wont-turn-on-anymore" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="7a98201a-6d8e-48a3-8fd0-fcf812f16cd1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:42:07.527" UserId="116" Comment="added 273 characters in body; edited title" Text="AMD gaming motherboard upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2061" RevisionGUID="c5a729ac-ffae-4c51-9b2f-f5c498bf1356" CreationDate="2016-02-19T06:31:42.303" UserId="1366" Comment="added 809 characters in body" Text="I want to upgrade my PC and I don't know which path should I choose. I want raise performance in games and be able to OC my PC which is not possible now because I have blocked CPU (without K). All my parts were bought to fit [Rajintek Metis][1] case but it was to hot inside and I changed my case to [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2] which is much larger, has better air flow and can fit bigger GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1920 x 1080 but I may buy 4K monitor in near future&#xD;&#xA; - what do I play: newest titles without first person shooters&#xD;&#xA; - budget: ~$400 but I want to choose upgrade which will give **best performance per spent dollar**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My actual setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-4690][3]&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z87I GAMING AC][4]&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Gigabyte GTX960 ITX 2GB][5]&#xD;&#xA; - PSU: [Thermaltake Smart SE 530W][6]&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB][7]&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: [WD 1TB Blue][8]&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: [Crucial MX100 128GB][9]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU COOLER: [Pkanteks PH-TC14S][10]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Itx][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 200 mm intake fan provided with case&#xD;&#xA; - CASE Cooling: 3 x [NZXT FN V2 (140 mm)][11] exaust fans (2 x top, 1 x rear) &#xD;&#xA; - FAN controller: [NZXT GRID+ V2][12] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which of paths listed below will be the best choice ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 1:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheapest way. Only upgrade GPU &amp; RAM. No OC possibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][14] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$250**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the most probable upgrade for me. It will upgrade my GPU and give me possibility to overclock my CPU with upgrading it to i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i7-4790K][15] ~$390&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][14] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$360**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 3:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade only GPU but to GTX 980. Will my not overclocked i5 4690 be a bottleneck for this card ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [Asus GTX 980 DC2 OC Strix][16] ~$600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 4:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade to Skylake it will be the most expensive, so I'm not sure if this upgrade is worth this price. To fit budget range I have to resign from i7 (to i5) and 16 GB RAM (to 8GB) and it's still $45 more expensive than Haswell upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: ~$90&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ~$200&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel® Core™ i5-6600K][17] ~$280&#xD;&#xA; - MOBO: [MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC][18] ~$175&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [MSI GTX970][13] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x4GB, 3200MHz, CL16][19] ~$70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM: ~$405**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's really hard choice for me which path will be the best for spent dollar? In addition I have to ask if my PSU will be enough for all this configurations or should I add PSU with more power to this four paths ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PATH 5**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if the best solution is to save more money and wait for new architecture (GPU), I will do it but still my setup won't give me possibility to OC when it will be needed. My last idea is to sell CPU and RAM and upgrade it with better (but used, when they are still on market and people are changing them to Skylake) CPU and better RAM memory which won't be so expensive like other upgrades but will give me possibility to raise performance of my setup when it will be needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: ~$180&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: ~$30&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: **used** Intel® Core™ i7-4790K ~$300&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: **used** Intel® Core™ i7-4690K ~$220&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Teamgroup Vulcan 2400 Mhz, CL11, 2 x 8GB][14] ~$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM i7: ~$190**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SUM i5: ~$110**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does this solution have sense ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=17&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80810/Intel-Core-i5-4690-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5369#ov&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.thermaltake.com/This/Smart_Series_/Smart_SE/C_00001964/Smart_SE_530W/design.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/blt8g3d1608dt1tx0ceu&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=770#Tab3&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/storage-ssd-mx100?cm_re=top-nav-_-flyout-ssd-_-us-ssd-learn-about-mx100&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14S.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/fn-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/GRID-Plus-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://www.msi.com/product/graphics-card/GTX-970-4GD5T-OC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/MEMORYMODULES/OVERCLOCKING/DDR3/Vulcan%20DDR3%202400&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/STRIXGTX980DC2OC4GD5/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/88191/Intel-Core-i5-6600K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [18]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z170I-GAMING-PRO-AC.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [19]: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f4-3200c16d-8gvkb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2068" RevisionGUID="2706b1de-5dec-48e6-ad65-3954d4ea19d5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T06:53:19.790" UserId="1366" Text="**First solution - perfect match but expensive.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus prepared solution which is perfect for your requirements but it's really expensive and it's over your budget. It's [ASUS CS-B][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual LAN: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® I217LM&#xD;&#xA; - Realtek® 8111G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Ports &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's mATX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost: $200 (Amazon US)** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Second solution - better and cheaper** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should just use [@john kieran solution][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/CSB/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2067/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2069" RevisionGUID="80f99344-a37b-4ed5-8511-a900fbfedb9b" CreationDate="2016-02-19T07:17:39.167" UserId="1833" Text="Good day, everybody. I know, that this theme (about long USB cables) was discussed many times on different resources, but my question still keeps uncovered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The task is typical: my PC is in one room, my TV is in another. I want to play on my TV (by using joystick) or control my PC by using TV as monitor.&#xD;&#xA;The distance between PC and TV about 8 meters. As you probably knows, USB cables has a distance limitation of 5 meters. I seen (and already ordered a pair) adapter USB - RJ45 - USB. But, unfortunately, I couldn't find this kind of an adapter that will support USB 2.0, only USB 1.1. Well, I found a few, but they costs too much - from 50$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I found long USB cables which are called active (with IC on one of the ends), it looks as following:&#xD;&#xA;[1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there a lot of suggestion to not to use it with power consumable devices, only for something simple, like mouse. So, this doesn't fit my requirments, so here is what I would like to do:&#xD;&#xA;PC - active USB cable (10m)- active USB hub (that has it's own power adapter) - USB devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This way, I think, the energy loss because of long USB cable will be restored by active USB hub.&#xD;&#xA;So, everyone tried this kind of a connection scheme? Will this work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FbWuE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2069" RevisionGUID="80f99344-a37b-4ed5-8511-a900fbfedb9b" CreationDate="2016-02-19T07:17:39.167" UserId="1833" Text="Will the active USB hub work with active 10m usb cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2069" RevisionGUID="80f99344-a37b-4ed5-8511-a900fbfedb9b" CreationDate="2016-02-19T07:17:39.167" UserId="1833" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2070" RevisionGUID="3bdb2eb3-916d-4ed8-8c98-3b9643a8710a" CreationDate="2016-02-19T07:41:47.443" UserId="1366" Text="I would recommend two options one is around your budget second is cheaper but still meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MSI 990FXA GAMING - [149.99 on newegg][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard meets all your requirements and is good for OC. Additionally it has really good software. It's really solid construction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 - [$99.99 on newegg][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's really good motherboard which also meets all your requirements. It also has OC potential. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130859&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2062" RevisionGUID="214cdf54-3a99-4b1a-a6e1-136e403267f6" CreationDate="2016-02-19T10:52:33.223" UserId="1828" Comment="Clarification in response to comments" Text="I am currently on the lookout for an affordable computer monitor with a high refresh rate, starting at 120Hz, but preferably higher. The reason why I need a high refresh rate is that I need to control the duration of images that are displayed in psychological experiments with high temporal fidelity. For example, with 60Hz the smallest possible step change is 16.6 ms. Instead, I am in the search of a time resolution that is closer to 1 ms. (A standard display size is sufficient, as most stimuli are presented within 0-7 degrees of the visual angle with most stimuli around 2 degrees.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most LCDs are [not suitable][1] for this type of high temporal precision. The goal is to adjust the amount of contrast change as well as the duration of the stimulus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal price range is 200-300 euros and in this range I have found some 144 Hz monitors. Given three options, we will choose the cheapest one. Concerning connector type, we are not very well informed what factors limit us or to what extent we could use adapters while maintaining a high refresh rate. Our current setup are roughly 8 year old computers running Windows 7 in a dual screen setup. Any standard resolution and screen size suffices, which would enable us to replicate standard experiments. (Our brand preference is Dell, but after communicating with a Dell sales rep it seems that they do not have a screen for our purposes, so any brand with a decent build applies.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4369646/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2071" RevisionGUID="28941085-273c-4813-b9a3-54c768f95d80" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:25:20.460" UserId="1249" Text="You're right: it'll work as long as the last hub will be a powered one. Remember that you have only 5 hops 5 meter cables which gives 20m tops (because last hop is from hub to USB keyboard/gamepad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IMHO buying &quot;active&quot; cables is pointless, you'll be better of buying few regular, 4-port hubs and 5-meter cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But this all is unnecessary hassle: have you tried using wireless keyboard, mouse and joypad? They usually work very good over several meters and walls at home. If they don't, use **one** usb cable to position receiver better, this does the trick in most cases." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2072" RevisionGUID="11cd4b8f-265e-4746-a33a-588428b6822f" CreationDate="2016-02-19T12:03:05.130" UserId="1249" Text="What I'm proposing is a hack, involving two-sided scotch tape and splicing wires: DELL AS501 or AX510. They can be bough for as little as 5€ used or 10€ new. They're simple, one-piece analog devices with 3.5mm jack audio input and 5.5mm barrel plug 12V input.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power supply can be a slight problem without compatible Dell monitor, but it's still relatively simple to either match a 12V/1A power supply (just watch the polarity) or to splice the cable and power it directly from some 12V source you already have (like your desktop PSU)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2069" RevisionGUID="4af320bf-2372-4947-9c4a-9dccfdd1bfef" CreationDate="2016-02-19T12:26:53.157" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="ebe42f9e-e40e-48c2-a07e-8be801ddbc9a" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:49:36.250" UserId="982" Text="I have an ASUS N56VB and have been researching laptop coolers for a while now (or maybe even too much).&#xD;&#xA;I checked the areas where the laptop overheats when playing games and noticed that it happens only on the left side. Even the hard drive, which is on the bottom right, is unaffected.&#xD;&#xA;Also, I think the vents are not at the bottom of the laptop but on it's left side.&#xD;&#xA;There are of course a lot of brands which make the choice even harder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering those circumstances, I am not sure whether to buy a cooling pad with 1 fan, 2 or 4 fans. 1 fan lies always in the center, and the heating occurs on the left side only. 2 fans might be sufficient. 4 fans, while at the right areas, seem redundant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;Some measurements - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byq62KhKoXQeWlBKaWM4QUNjbjQ/view?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;The side vents - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byq62KhKoXQea2kyNnBoUm45TGs/view?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought that maybe this will be good:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/BlueFinger%C2%AE-Arrival-Notebo...&#xD;&#xA;As it has both a cooling pad and a cooler on the side, but there are not enough reviews for this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another good product is this:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Cooling-TeckNet-Notebook-Adjust...&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because of the temperature display and the on/off switch (which hopefully also turns off the fans themselves).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or perhaps this one (or something similar):&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Massive23-Notebook-...&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps one fan is better? I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I'm thinking about the BlueFinger cooler (mainly because it is pad&amp;side cooler) but the lack of reviews is disturbing. I would really appreciate your assistance as I have never bought a laptop cooler before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="ebe42f9e-e40e-48c2-a07e-8be801ddbc9a" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:49:36.250" UserId="982" Text="Not sure about which lapop cooler to choose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="ebe42f9e-e40e-48c2-a07e-8be801ddbc9a" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:49:36.250" UserId="982" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="68bfd8a0-854a-4f00-a744-4986ba704b52" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:39:03.790" UserId="57" Comment="pulled images off googledrive" Text="I have an ASUS N56VB and have been researching laptop coolers for a while now (or maybe even too much).&#xD;&#xA;I checked the areas where the laptop overheats when playing games and noticed that it happens only on the left side. Even the hard drive, which is on the bottom right, is unaffected.&#xD;&#xA;Also, I think the vents are not at the bottom of the laptop but on it's left side.&#xD;&#xA;There are of course a lot of brands which make the choice even harder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering those circumstances, I am not sure whether to buy a cooling pad with 1 fan, 2 or 4 fans. 1 fan lies always in the center, and the heating occurs on the left side only. 2 fans might be sufficient. 4 fans, while at the right areas, seem redundant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some measurements - &#xD;&#xA;[![Measurements][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The side vents - &#xD;&#xA;[![Side vents][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought that maybe this will be good:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/BlueFinger%C2%AE-Arrival-Notebo...&#xD;&#xA;As it has both a cooling pad and a cooler on the side, but there are not enough reviews for this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another good product is this:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Cooling-TeckNet-Notebook-Adjust...&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because of the temperature display and the on/off switch (which hopefully also turns off the fans themselves).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or perhaps this one (or something similar):&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Massive23-Notebook-...&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps one fan is better? I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I'm thinking about the BlueFinger cooler (mainly because it is pad&amp;side cooler) but the lack of reviews is disturbing. I would really appreciate your assistance as I have never bought a laptop cooler before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tHEOR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vHrS3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="80f76128-cb45-4253-b95c-5e07197ef28a" CreationDate="2016-02-19T18:06:39.337" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="I have an ASUS N56VB and have been researching laptop coolers for a while now (or maybe even too much).&#xD;&#xA;I checked the areas where the laptop overheats when playing games and noticed that it happens only on the left side. Even the hard drive, which is on the bottom right, is unaffected.&#xD;&#xA;Also, I think the vents are not at the bottom of the laptop but on it's left side.&#xD;&#xA;There are of course a lot of brands which make the choice even harder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering those circumstances, I am not sure whether to buy a cooling pad with 1 fan, 2 or 4 fans. 1 fan lies always in the center, and the heating occurs on the left side only. 2 fans might be sufficient. 4 fans, while at the right areas, seem redundant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some measurements - &#xD;&#xA;[![Measurements][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The side vents - &#xD;&#xA;[![Side vents][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought that maybe this will be good:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/BlueFinger%C2%AE-Arrival-Notebo...&#xD;&#xA;As it has both a cooling pad and a cooler on the side, but there are not enough reviews for this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another good product is this:&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Cooling-TeckNet-Notebook-Adjust...&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because of the temperature display and the on/off switch (which hopefully also turns off the fans themselves).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or perhaps this one (or something similar):&#xD;&#xA;http://smile.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Massive23-Notebook-...&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps one fan is better? I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I'm thinking about the BlueFinger cooler (mainly because it is pad&amp;side cooler) but the lack of reviews is disturbing. I would really appreciate your assistance as I have never bought a laptop cooler before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tHEOR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vHrS3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="484c6934-4997-4b2a-9c5e-59666e47b0e9" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:50:31.783" UserId="279" Comment="edited title and tags." Text="Not sure about which laptop cooler to choose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="484c6934-4997-4b2a-9c5e-59666e47b0e9" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:50:31.783" UserId="279" Comment="edited title and tags." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="484c6934-4997-4b2a-9c5e-59666e47b0e9" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:50:31.783" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 982 edit id of 400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2075" RevisionGUID="0b295592-afc9-454e-95a8-023f8d2c5d3c" CreationDate="2016-02-20T04:57:32.863" UserId="595" Text="The links you provided for cooling pads on Amazon do not work for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my recommendations:  &#xD;&#xA;1, [LotFancy 13-15.6 inch laptop cooler][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  - Dual fan  &#xD;&#xA;  - 73% 5 star rating (out of 176)  &#xD;&#xA;  - $16.30  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2, [Cooler Master NotePal X2][2]  &#xD;&#xA;- Single fan  &#xD;&#xA;- 78% overall positive rating (out of 7,332)  &#xD;&#xA;- $29.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally use the Cooler Master, but in your situation, the LotFancy would be better. As long as it is high quality, it's the best one for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Laptop-Cooling-Cooler-Light/dp/B00RE5SO8E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943381&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=dual%20fan%20laptop%20cooler&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-Cooling-R9-NBC-4WAK-GP/dp/B002MU1ZRS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943841&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=coolermaster" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2073" RevisionGUID="346e9d9d-5f7c-4312-8952-9562e1626a29" CreationDate="2016-02-20T10:54:01.343" UserId="982" Comment="Fixed links." Text="I have an ASUS N56VB and have been researching laptop coolers for a while now (or maybe even too much).&#xD;&#xA;I checked the areas where the laptop overheats when playing games and noticed that it happens only on the left side. Even the hard drive, which is on the bottom right, is unaffected.&#xD;&#xA;Also, I think the vents are not at the bottom of the laptop but on it's left side.&#xD;&#xA;There are of course a lot of brands which make the choice even harder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering those circumstances, I am not sure whether to buy a cooling pad with 1 fan, 2 or 4 fans. 1 fan lies always in the center, and the heating occurs on the left side only. 2 fans might be sufficient. 4 fans, while at the right areas, seem redundant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some measurements - &#xD;&#xA;[![Measurements][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The side vents - &#xD;&#xA;[![Side vents][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought that maybe this will be good:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/BlueFinger%C2%AE-Arrival-Notebook-2200-4000%C2%B110%25RPM-Ultra-portable/dp/B0148IKWYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455965509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Bluefinger+2+in+1&#xD;&#xA;As it has both a cooling pad and a cooler on the side, but there are not enough reviews for this product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another good product is this:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Cooling-TeckNet-Notebook-Adjustable-Temperature/dp/B016CL2F5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455965555&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TeckNet%C2%AE+Gaming+Laptop&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because of the temperature display and the on/off switch (which hopefully also turns off the fans themselves).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or perhaps this one (or something similar? there could be others that are way better):&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Massive23-Notebook-Oversized-CLN0015/dp/B003ZUXXWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455965583&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Thermaltake+Massive23&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps one fan is better? I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I'm thinking about the BlueFinger cooler (mainly because it is pad&amp;side cooler) but the lack of reviews is disturbing. I would really appreciate your assistance as I have never bought a laptop cooler before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tHEOR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vHrS3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2075" RevisionGUID="9b0c311b-62e8-48d2-888f-8d162b1404f5" CreationDate="2016-02-20T15:06:15.893" UserId="595" Comment="added 467 characters in body" Text="Here are my recommendations:  &#xD;&#xA;1, [LotFancy 13-15.6 inch laptop cooler][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  - Dual fan  &#xD;&#xA;  - 73% 5 star rating (out of 176)  &#xD;&#xA;  - $16.30  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2, [Cooler Master NotePal X2][2]  &#xD;&#xA;- Single fan  &#xD;&#xA;- 78% overall positive rating (out of 7,332)  &#xD;&#xA;- $29.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3, [EGOGO 12&quot;-17&quot; Laptop Cooler][3]&#xD;&#xA;- Quad fan  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual controlled cooling zones  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual USB port  &#xD;&#xA;- $19.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that the Amazon links are working, I can honestly say the [TekNet][4] cooler looks best for your situation. It has about as many features as you can possibly get in a laptop cooler, and it has a moderate number of reviews, most of which are positive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Laptop-Cooling-Cooler-Light/dp/B00RE5SO8E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943381&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=dual%20fan%20laptop%20cooler&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-Cooling-R9-NBC-4WAK-GP/dp/B002MU1ZRS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943841&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=coolermaster&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/EGOGO-Laptop-Cooler-Cooling-Pieces/dp/B0179P8UGE/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455979563&amp;sr=8-18-spons&amp;keywords=laptop%20cooling%20pad%20special&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B016CL2F5S/?tag=stackoverfl08-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2075" RevisionGUID="0fa73c79-c240-4c96-a269-256a24726610" CreationDate="2016-02-20T15:16:17.083" UserId="595" Comment="added 467 characters in body" Text="Here are my recommendations:  &#xD;&#xA;1, [LotFancy 13-15.6 inch laptop cooler][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  - Dual fan  &#xD;&#xA;  - 73% 5 star rating (out of 176)  &#xD;&#xA;  - $16.30  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2, [Cooler Master NotePal X2][2]  &#xD;&#xA;- Single fan  &#xD;&#xA;- 78% overall positive rating (out of 7,332)  &#xD;&#xA;- $29.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3, [EGOGO 12&quot;-17&quot; Laptop Cooler][3]&#xD;&#xA;- Quad fan  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual controlled cooling zones  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual USB port  &#xD;&#xA;- $19.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that the Amazon links are working, I can honestly say the [TekNet][4] cooler looks best for your situation. It has about as many features as you can possibly get in a laptop cooler, and it has a moderate number of reviews, most of which are positive. As for the side cooler, I would recommend using the TekNet with a separate side cooler, so you can have all the neat features instead of compromising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [HAVIT HV-F2061 Mini LED USB Vacuum Turbine Air Extracting Cooling Fan Cooler][5] has:  &#xD;&#xA;- Temperature LCD  &#xD;&#xA;- Automatic/Manual adjustable speed  &#xD;&#xA;- Quad head dispenser  &#xD;&#xA;- Fits almost any laptop  &#xD;&#xA;- $19.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Laptop-Cooling-Cooler-Light/dp/B00RE5SO8E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943381&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=dual%20fan%20laptop%20cooler&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-Cooling-R9-NBC-4WAK-GP/dp/B002MU1ZRS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455943841&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=coolermaster&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/EGOGO-Laptop-Cooler-Cooling-Pieces/dp/B0179P8UGE/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455979563&amp;sr=8-18-spons&amp;keywords=laptop%20cooling%20pad%20special&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B016CL2F5S/?tag=stackoverfl08-20&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/HV-F2061-Turbine-Extracting-Cooling-Notebook/dp/B00W0YZS6K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455980997&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=laptop%20side%20cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2069" RevisionGUID="6c2c1880-9c3c-4375-a77a-0e057bbbda55" CreationDate="2016-02-20T20:19:22.713" UserId="1833" Comment="edited title" Text="What equipment will allow 10m active USB cable to make self-powered USB peripherals work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2076" RevisionGUID="ea74cfd1-42f8-412b-a6b3-02b07bee23c2" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:37:18.737" UserId="912" Text="The Samsung is much more durable since all the components are manufactured in house and they have very strict quality control. They are both TLC, but the Samsung has a really good TLC flash chip. The Samsung SSD is also much faster than the ADATA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2078" RevisionGUID="eb08b27a-e3fe-458a-b7e7-536fdd7b87b2" CreationDate="2016-02-21T07:52:56.263" UserId="1812" Text="I'm going for Samsung SSD 850 EVO. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some research i found ADATA's TLC is a poor performer. In real world file transfer read speed was decent but writing can bring the SP550 to its knees. Sequential write is averaged about 50 mbps, where as Samsung 850 EVO is able to maintain so much better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;we can push our self to spend extra bucks to get a quality product.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2080" RevisionGUID="6aa7930e-23b0-4f48-bc2f-09d80cf19d5f" CreationDate="2016-02-21T12:59:30.440" UserId="1585" Text="Several weeks or months ago I read a discussion, probably on Hacker News, and in it somebody recommended a router that fixed all his router problems. Reception was excellent, and it had an option to configure guest access on a separate network, secure from the rest, without much effort. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't remember the name of the brand. I believe it had U and Q in it, but I'm not sure. The router itself was round and white, like the Engenius, but as I remember it without the leds. Pricing was about 80 euros for the basic model, and there were pro versions for about 240 euros. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Engenius router][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any idea which router I'm referring to? It could even be Engenius, but I don't find anything about the guest network setup in the reviews. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Tsxdb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2080" RevisionGUID="6aa7930e-23b0-4f48-bc2f-09d80cf19d5f" CreationDate="2016-02-21T12:59:30.440" UserId="1585" Text="Looking for router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2080" RevisionGUID="6aa7930e-23b0-4f48-bc2f-09d80cf19d5f" CreationDate="2016-02-21T12:59:30.440" UserId="1585" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2081" RevisionGUID="a87c1136-a810-4a59-8a5b-986ba9a36bcc" CreationDate="2016-02-21T13:46:26.647" UserId="1329" Text="Most of the models linked here have fans mounted in a fashion that makes them work like axial fans with a big dead spot¹ in the middle and directly blowing at the mostly closed surface or trying to suck air from it, which probably causes more turbulence in the fan itself than actual cooling of the device. I don't think this is a very efficient design, neither do I think that the mentioned extracting cooler fan helps support the CPU cooler in the laptop doing it's job better. It tries to get the hot air out faster, but doesn't help getting fresh and cool air into the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We had some older very hot running laptops in the office here in Germany. I bought an [Arctic NC][1] suitable for 14 and 15 inch sized laptops which made it run significantly cooler and I have used it since then for most of the laptops I worked with in the office. It's rather small and mostly quiet. I would recommend looking for such a device that works more like a radial design and covers the entire surface without any dead spots. The downside of this particular cooler is, that your laptop only stands on two points on this fan which may be bit unstable in some cases compared to the other designs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said I live in Germany where it doesn't get very hot and our offices are outside of town, my co-worker in Hungary living in a not well ventilated [apartment][2] had more severe heat problems with the same laptop model (trying to cool with +40°C fresh air). So it also depends on where you live.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [TMD fans][3] were proposed as a solution to the dead spot problem more than 10 years ago, but never got as popular as the radial based designs you can find today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G3FRG6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plattenbau&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tip-magnetic_driving" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2081" RevisionGUID="f960579e-fda8-44d9-9c7a-feb455951c9d" CreationDate="2016-02-21T13:51:30.327" UserId="1329" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="Most of the models linked here have fans mounted in a fashion that makes them work like axial fans with a big dead spot¹ in the middle and directly blowing at the mostly closed surface or trying to suck air from it, which probably causes more turbulence in the fan itself than actual cooling of the device. I don't think this is a very efficient design, neither do I think that the mentioned extracting cooler fan helps support the CPU cooler in the laptop doing it's job better. It tries to get the hot air out faster, but doesn't help getting fresh and cool air into the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We had some older very hot running laptops in the office here in Germany. I bought an [Arctic NC][1] suitable for 14 and 15 inch sized laptops which made it run significantly cooler and I have used it since then for most of the laptops I worked with in the office. It's rather small and mostly quiet. I would recommend looking for such a device that works more like a radial design and covers the entire surface without any dead spots. The downside of this particular cooler is, that your laptop only stands on two points on this fan which may be bit unstable in some cases compared to the other designs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said I live in Germany where it doesn't get very hot and our offices are outside of town, my co-worker in Hungary living in a not well ventilated [apartment][3] had more severe heat problems with the same laptop model (trying to cool with +40°C fresh air). So it also depends on where you live.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [TMD fans][4] were proposed as a solution to the dead spot problem more than 10 years ago, but never got as popular as the radial based designs you can find today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G3FRG6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bKq0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plattenbau&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tip-magnetic_driving" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="08eee9be-3f39-4318-af24-6844d7776924" CreationDate="2016-02-21T16:50:22.957" UserId="1428" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2&#xA;&#xA;Which was a horrible server&#xA;&#xA;So what I am wondering is for a list of all compatible servers which can take this RAM instead of throwing it away ?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="08eee9be-3f39-4318-af24-6844d7776924" CreationDate="2016-02-21T16:50:22.957" UserId="1428" Text="I have RAM but want to find compatible servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="08eee9be-3f39-4318-af24-6844d7776924" CreationDate="2016-02-21T16:50:22.957" UserId="1428" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="a9b4c4b4-c457-44c2-ae6d-dfd9f2c72021" CreationDate="2016-02-21T18:35:22.587" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="69d0ff52-068a-4197-9de1-d14c7a7f0b0c" CreationDate="2016-02-21T18:39:37.117" UserId="1428" Comment="added 119 characters in body" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2&#xA;&#xA;Which was a horrible server&#xA;&#xA;So what I am wondering is for a list of any server compatible servers which can take this RAM instead of throwing it away ?&#xA;&#xA;Looking for something on dell or HP brands&#xA;&#xA;I did tried with my dl580 and dl380 but they were not compatible&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="7b699a4d-563f-4b2f-bab9-bdef251994f6" CreationDate="2016-02-21T18:50:08.153" UserId="1428" Comment="deleted 70 characters in body" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2&#xA;&#xA;Which was a horrible server&#xA;&#xA;So what I am wondering is for any compatible server  in HP or Dell brands which can take this RAM&#xA;&#xA;I did tried with my dl580 and dl380 but they were not compatible&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="84fb5574-8933-49c9-a62e-48060581bd7e" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:00:47.740" UserId="1428" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2 which had issues so didn't work as expected &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;So what I am wondering is for any compatible server  in HP or Dell brands which can take this RAM&#xA;&#xA;I did tried with my dl580 and dl380 but they were not compatible&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="7d1ea8cc-dd29-42c4-8c94-4aa503cdf74e" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:12:13.177" UserId="1428" Comment="edited title" Text="I have RAM but want to find a compatible server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="7c67edf2-8138-4b43-9d13-28708e592ffd" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:40:10.177" UserId="1428" Comment="added 57 characters in body; added 159 characters in body; added 5 characters in body" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2 which had issues so didn't work as expected &#xA;&#xA;***What I am looking for***&#xA;&#xA; 1. Used HP or Dell server&#xA; 2. Price range $300 or less&#xA; 3. Two quad core &#xA; 4. any compatible server  which will work this RAM&#xA;&#xA;***Existing work*** &#xA;&#xA; &#xA;&#xA; 1. tried with my dl580 and dl380 but they were not compatible&#xA; 2. It also did to work with del power edge r900&#xA; 3. Searching on google and eBay basically lists RAM only. Not finding any servers that way&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="95497a19-5b70-4bc3-8d27-60e8541870d4" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:55:05.493" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7722" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2080" RevisionGUID="86c048ad-6c00-45da-88fe-1d7e872997d9" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:02:47.933" UserId="1585" Comment="edited title" Text="Looking for specific router brand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="31835a4f-8dd0-4b1a-9950-e886827032ff" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:45:26.127" UserId="1428" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have the following type of spare 64GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;DDR2 ECC&#xA;&#xA;4GB 2Rx4 PC2-5300P RAM PC2-5300P-555-13-ZZ&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;This came with IBM System X3850 M2 which had issues so didn't work as expected &#xA;&#xA;***What I am looking for***&#xA;&#xA; 1. Used HP or Dell server&#xA; 2. Price range $300 or less&#xA; 3. Two quad core &#xA; 4. any compatible server  which will work this RAM&#xA;&#xA;***Existing work*** &#xA;&#xA; &#xA;&#xA; 1. tried with my dl580 and dl380 but they were not compatible&#xA; 2. It also did to work with del power edge r900&#xA; 3. Searching on google and eBay basically lists RAM only. Not finding any servers that way&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ3WN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2084" RevisionGUID="31835a4f-8dd0-4b1a-9950-e886827032ff" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:45:26.127" UserId="1428" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have DDR2 ECC RAM but want to find a compatible server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2087" RevisionGUID="5caaaab7-a8e2-44b5-91e1-7755e0c72a8b" CreationDate="2016-02-22T02:06:41.917" UserId="57" Text="Based on your picture, and description involving &quot;U&quot; and &quot;Q&quot;, it sounds like you are thinking of a product from [Ubiquiti Networks][1]. There was a very detailed article about them on [Ars Technica][2] last October.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue is, they don't have have a router that looks similar to your image. There are [Access Points][3] though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the ones that Ars reviewed was the [UniFi AP AC Pro][4]. You can get this [directly from Ubiquiti][5] (when it isn't sold out) for $150.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Unifi AP AC Pro - Source: Ars Technica http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/10/review-ubiquiti-unifi-made-me-realize-how-terrible-consumer-wi-fi-gear-is/][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ubnt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/10/review-ubiquiti-unifi-made-me-realize-how-terrible-consumer-wi-fi-gear-is/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ubnt.com/products/#all/wireless&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ac-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fAtxh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2080" RevisionGUID="1dd3043f-ce03-4369-bfb9-92de4bd67bd4" CreationDate="2016-02-22T09:22:43.967" UserId="1585" Comment="edited title" Text="Looking for specific router / access point brand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2091" RevisionGUID="f17cc634-dc8a-4a70-b02c-0f0c64a4e2d1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T22:28:08.133" UserId="1585" Text="I'm looking for an ereader that can easily sync content with a laptop. It should function similar to dropbox: copy a PDF in a folder, and it should upload automatically to the ereader - if wifi is connected of course. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have a Sony PRS T3 ereader, and I'm very fond of it. Only problem is that it's such a hassle to copy files to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if Amazon or Kobo have solved this problem, and how it works out. The reader should be an e-ink reader, not a Kindle Fire with Android. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2091" RevisionGUID="f17cc634-dc8a-4a70-b02c-0f0c64a4e2d1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T22:28:08.133" UserId="1585" Text="Kindle or Kobo syncing content" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2091" RevisionGUID="f17cc634-dc8a-4a70-b02c-0f0c64a4e2d1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T22:28:08.133" UserId="1585" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2092" RevisionGUID="5da6c8ef-fb67-46bd-bd8d-082adc578658" CreationDate="2016-02-23T01:27:04.780" UserId="313" Text="I use the basic version of **Kindle**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can do all the following things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - copy a PDF in a folder&#xD;&#xA; - formats and uploads it to the e-reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, I use an app called [Calibre][1] which makes that process very simple and effortless. I generally use epub version books, compatible with iBooks. However, Calibre formats them according to Kindle's format and uploads them to the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, copying files is a breeze with (Kindle + Calibre).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://calibre-ebook.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2093" RevisionGUID="aedf24b0-f885-4f3f-9bdb-67ef8de23d18" CreationDate="2016-02-23T03:05:23.087" UserId="595" Text="This LVDS driver board [from ebay][1] has a quoted max resolution of 2048X1152.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It says in the description that when you order the board, you need to supply the model number of your LCD panel so they can give you the correct kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-VGA-Driver-LVDS-Inverter-Kit-Convert-a-Bare-Laptop-LCD-into-Monitor-/111115624120?hash=item19df01deb8:g:1~sAAOxyrUZRymfp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2070" RevisionGUID="bd16b444-e1c1-4397-9460-9235c53ae171" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:46:33.090" UserId="1366" Comment="Deleted MOBO which does not support CPU mentioned in configuration. " Text="After reviewing my answer your CPU is compatible only with 990FX motherboards. So I deleted second option because it wasn't compatible with your CPU. I also added cheaper alternative which will work in your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MSI 990FXA GAMING - [149.99 on newegg][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard meets all your requirements and is good for OC. Additionally it has really good software. It's really solid construction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 - [134.99 on newegg][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is cheaper alternative which is also good constuction and meets your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130859&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UD9887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="7f5d026a-6f81-4ce5-83ea-9685dc4558e5" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:22:47.060" UserId="1588" Comment="16" />
  <row Id="7750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="d863f768-2b67-4885-8609-6ccf5b817e3c" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:26:54.743" UserId="1588" Comment="add sample workload" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which; was thinking of vSphere or KVM)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought one, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an example of a sample workload that I might want to have. As a personal interest, I might want to compile AOSP (android) in a Linux image. That eats up a lot of RAM and a lot of CPU. While that's happening, I'm working on professional windows development in a 2nd VM w/Visual Studio. It's not graphic intensive, but I'd be compiling regularly, which, employs parallelism. There would also a web server running in a third VM that would be serving REST requests for testing purposes, related to the development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2091" RevisionGUID="eeaa3c52-d01e-4fdd-a0ec-d18221a35c8e" CreationDate="2016-02-23T14:19:13.497" UserId="1585" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an ereader that can easily sync content with a laptop. It should function similar to dropbox: copy a PDF in a folder, and it should upload automatically to the ereader - if wifi is connected of course. So connecting a USB cable is not an option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have a Sony PRS T3 ereader, and I'm very fond of it. Only problem is that it's such a hassle to copy files to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if Amazon or Kobo have solved this problem, and how it works out. The reader should be an e-ink reader, not a Kindle Fire with Android. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="a3a30018-eae5-49f0-9302-1c05d103fcc0" CreationDate="2016-02-23T15:51:34.060" UserId="1588" Comment="added 555 characters in body" Text="I am an experienced programmer with very little hardware experience, and completely overwhelmed with the unlimited number of choices available.  Since technology changes so rapidly, it's very difficult to Google up a guide that is both timely and relevant for what I'd like to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best blog I've seen so far is [this one](http://thehomeserverblog.com/esxi-lab-specs/), but it's already a few years old now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have several KVM/VirtualBox VMs on my Debian laptop.  It is extremely slow, and I can't run more than 1 VM at a time (or 2 with the second having a very small memory/processor footprint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace my laptop with a tower-based server for running these VM images, so I can remote in from any device on my LAN.  My line of thinking is that I can get a **lot** more power into a larger enclosure for less money than an equivalent laptop would cost, with the possibility of upgrading down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the basic idea of what I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Spend less than or equal to $1,500 US, tax included&#xD;&#xA; * Install a hypervisor as the &quot;main&quot; OS (suggestions welcome as to which; was thinking of vSphere or KVM)&#xD;&#xA; * Be able to run at least 2-3 Windows/Linux VMs simultaneously for development and testing&#xD;&#xA; * Upgrade-able processor/memory would be nice, if possible&#xD;&#xA; * Good performance for compiling large applications (noting that parallel computing is used in GCC/msbuild compilation) - developing both Web and desktop software&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of RAM, which is used by compilation processes and VMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it should be kind of like a &quot;home lab&quot;, but mainly used for professional development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some [pre-built Lenovo servers on Amazon][1], and almost bought one, but I am second guessing myself in terms of what exactly to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where to start? Build or buy? How to get started picking the right components (e.g. motherboard, drive, processor)?  I know my way around the inside of a computer... I can replace parts, etc., so building a server is not out of the question--  but unfortunately I don't know how to pick &quot;the best&quot; parts.  My last few laptop picks have been flops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an example of a sample workload that I might want to have. As a personal interest, I might want to compile AOSP (android) in a Linux image. That eats up a lot of RAM and a lot of CPU. While that's happening, I'm working on professional windows development in a 2nd VM w/Visual Studio. It's not graphic intensive, but I'd be compiling regularly, which, employs parallelism. There would also a web server running in a third VM that would be serving REST requests for testing purposes, related to the development work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT 2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm overwhemed with the massive amount of choice when it comes to hardware. I'd like some advice from experts on (a) whether it's better to build or buy pre-built, and (b) how to get started picking something that is a good quality build, and upgradeable in terms of RAM (and possibly CPU). What are good sources for getting this type of information? There is so much information out there, it's hard to tell what's reliable and what's misleading. I don't care if it's a pre-built server, or if it's DIY, so long as it is good quality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1BBXP3NAJKOPD/ref=cm_wl_list_o_3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2094" RevisionGUID="9fcd8688-de1f-4230-9cd4-aaee0940573f" CreationDate="2016-02-23T16:47:50.930" UserId="57" Text="If you are worried about building a machine, don't build it. You may lose out a tiny bit on hardware, but in return you usually get limited manufacturer support. The trade off between more hardware and more support is a valid reason to buy pre-built (and configured) hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next question you need to answer for yourself, is whether you are going to *actually* upgrade your hardware at some point or are you just going to *plan* on doing it, but never get around to it. Everyone wants more hardware to throw at stuff, but if you are not actually going to utilize it to it's fullest potential at some point, there is no sense in buying a machine that can have it's capacity doubled. Instead, focus on maximizing the hardware now. It sounds like this is going to be an experiment in visualization for you. It may be worth while to simply build a machine that works for now and see if visualization will work as you are hoping. If it does, consider this experiment a success and plan a truly beefy machine in a few years time to replace this proof of concept. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For my recommendations, I've made a few assumptions that may or may not fit your situation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your goal is to have server versions of the operating systems be visualized. Thus, you won't be running full desktop GUIs (frequently)&#xD;&#xA; - The goal is to have at least the minimum amount of RAM each operating system requires.&#xD;&#xA; - You will run 3 VMs&#xD;&#xA; - You will upgrade this machine to utilize more of it's capabilties at some point&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The [server](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INRMQG8/ref=wl_it_dp_v_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I29XNIY4HK2V57) you found on Amazon, doesn't appear to work for your requirements, as is. There are a few things that will trip you up in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are only 8 GB of RAM included. Personally, I wouldn't consider that &quot;lots of RAM&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, it doesn't come with hard drives. That means you have to decide what kind of storage space you want. On top of that, the drive bays don't appear to be included and the reviews say there isn't a place to mount regular drives. Configuring the storage, once you've gotten it, is an exercise left to you. Do you want one giant array? Do you want mirrored RAID? Do you want individual drives? You have to decide an configure the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the [CPU](http://ark.intel.com/products/75784/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2420-v2-15M-Cache-2_20-GHz) is 6 cores. This means, that with 3 VMs, each of your VM can have only 2 cores. Depending on the type of development you do, this may or may not be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side, this server appears to support dual power supplies. Only one is included, but if you wanted you could add a second one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, can we make this server work? I think you can. Especially, since the price on Amazon is about $400 cheaper than I can find elsewhere. Let's use that to upgrade the specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine can handle a *lot* more hardware. The [specs sheet](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/systems/servers/towers/thinkserver/td340/#tab-tech_specs) from Lenovo shows what it can do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Up to two 10-core Intel Xeons.&#xD;&#xA; - Ram: Up to 192 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: Up to 12 3.5&quot; drives / 16 2.5&quot; drives (requires the second power supply)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, assuming we can't get all of that for $1,500, let's find something reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Add another 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EMA5VU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I3SMJEEKU9EMF6) for a total of 24GB for an additional $110.&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: If you want speed, get a few SSDs. If you want storage, get a few spinning drives. If you want a combination of speed and storage, mix it up. This is going to cost you a few hundred though. Adding in [drive bays for the 3.5&quot; drives](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPBEM5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I14ZEOYA6YX23D) at $15 each, adds an additional $15-$60 (assuming you are only filling 4 bays).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, the total cost is roughly $1,200-$1,300. For this, you get a system that has manufacturer support (of some kind), states in it's spec sheets that it is compatiable with a variety of operating systems (including VMware ESXi and Citrix XenServer), and has been upgraded above basic levels. It is also $200-$300 under budget (excluding taxes and shipping). It will require you to add a bit of hardware yourself though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to go over your budget by a couple hundred, it may be useful to look at filling that second CPU slot. The system already comes with one [Intel Xeon E5-2420 v2 2.2GHz 6C/12T]. A second one will cost you about $650. Before you do this, though, consider how you are going to use this machine. Are you going to use it as an experiment and see if this works? If so, adding the second CPU at this point may be overkill. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2094" RevisionGUID="a239c672-3f0c-4cd2-97ed-18577caa5e93" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:01:27.620" UserId="57" Comment="missed a link" Text="If you are worried about building a machine, don't build it. You may lose out a tiny bit on hardware, but in return you usually get limited manufacturer support. The trade off between more hardware and more support is a valid reason to buy pre-built (and configured) hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next question you need to answer for yourself, is whether you are going to *actually* upgrade your hardware at some point or are you just going to *plan* on doing it, but never get around to it. Everyone wants more hardware to throw at stuff, but if you are not actually going to utilize it to it's fullest potential at some point, there is no sense in buying a machine that can have it's capacity doubled. Instead, focus on maximizing the hardware now. It sounds like this is going to be an experiment in visualization for you. It may be worth while to simply build a machine that works for now and see if visualization will work as you are hoping. If it does, consider this experiment a success and plan a truly beefy machine in a few years time to replace this proof of concept. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For my recommendations, I've made a few assumptions that may or may not fit your situation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your goal is to have server versions of the operating systems be visualized. Thus, you won't be running full desktop GUIs (frequently)&#xD;&#xA; - The goal is to have at least the minimum amount of RAM each operating system requires.&#xD;&#xA; - You will run 3 VMs&#xD;&#xA; - You will upgrade this machine to utilize more of it's capabilties at some point&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The [server](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INRMQG8/ref=wl_it_dp_v_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I29XNIY4HK2V57) you found on Amazon, doesn't appear to work for your requirements, as is. There are a few things that will trip you up in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are only 8 GB of RAM included. Personally, I wouldn't consider that &quot;lots of RAM&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, it doesn't come with hard drives. That means you have to decide what kind of storage space you want. On top of that, the drive bays don't appear to be included and the reviews say there isn't a place to mount regular drives. Configuring the storage, once you've gotten it, is an exercise left to you. Do you want one giant array? Do you want mirrored RAID? Do you want individual drives? You have to decide an configure the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the [CPU](http://ark.intel.com/products/75784/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2420-v2-15M-Cache-2_20-GHz) is 6 cores. This means, that with 3 VMs, each of your VM can have only 2 cores. Depending on the type of development you do, this may or may not be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side, this server appears to support dual power supplies. Only one is included, but if you wanted you could add a second one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, can we make this server work? I think you can. Especially, since the price on Amazon is about $400 cheaper than I can find elsewhere. Let's use that to upgrade the specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine can handle a *lot* more hardware. The [specs sheet](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/systems/servers/towers/thinkserver/td340/#tab-tech_specs) from Lenovo shows what it can do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Up to two 10-core Intel Xeons.&#xD;&#xA; - Ram: Up to 192 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: Up to 12 3.5&quot; drives / 16 2.5&quot; drives (requires the second power supply)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, assuming we can't get all of that for $1,500, let's find something reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Add another 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EMA5VU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I3SMJEEKU9EMF6) for a total of 24GB for an additional $110.&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: If you want speed, get a few SSDs. If you want storage, get a few spinning drives. If you want a combination of speed and storage, mix it up. This is going to cost you a few hundred though. Adding in [drive bays for the 3.5&quot; drives](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPBEM5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I14ZEOYA6YX23D) at $15 each, adds an additional $15-$60 (assuming you are only filling 4 bays).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, the total cost is roughly $1,200-$1,300. For this, you get a system that has manufacturer support (of some kind), states in it's spec sheets that it is compatiable with a variety of operating systems (including VMware ESXi and Citrix XenServer), and has been upgraded above basic levels. It is also $200-$300 under budget (excluding taxes and shipping). It will require you to add a bit of hardware yourself though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to go over your budget by a couple hundred, it may be useful to look at filling that second CPU slot. The system already comes with one [Intel Xeon E5-2420 v2 2.2GHz 6C/12T](http://ark.intel.com/products/75784/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2420-v2-15M-Cache-2_20-GHz). A second one will cost you about $650. Before you do this, though, consider how you are going to use this machine. Are you going to use it as an experiment and see if this works? If so, adding the second CPU at this point may be overkill. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2095" RevisionGUID="f838af2f-7acf-45f5-ae3a-b536d7188190" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:49:43.437" UserId="1850" Text="While Peter has explained why Nvidia Optimus is a problem and ivaan has proved that even a 980M won't work. If the laptops, MSI GT Series GT72S DomPro4K-059 and MSI GT Series GT72S DomProG-070 are too expensive. I would suggest going with a Razer Blade Stealth with Razer Core or Alienware 13 with a graphics amplifier. They will allow you to keep your price low while being VR compatible in a flexible way. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2096" RevisionGUID="eaf8eae0-613b-49cb-9c52-5970f79c2fa8" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:57:37.100" UserId="1848" Text="I have a system that requires a GPS signal from a GPS antenna in order to function.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system never actually moves, and will therefore always have the same GPS coordinates. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it is difficult to get a GPS signal to this device in the physical location it is in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering if there is any hardware that can attach to an antenna port which would automatically report arbitrary GPS coordinates to the attached system. Essentially it would act as an antenna, but only ever report a single set of coordinates. Does anyone know of a product like this, or any other creative ways to get around this? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They software on the system itself can't be altered to not require a GPS signal or have static coordinates. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2096" RevisionGUID="eaf8eae0-613b-49cb-9c52-5970f79c2fa8" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:57:37.100" UserId="1848" Text="Static GPS delivered via standard antenna port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2096" RevisionGUID="eaf8eae0-613b-49cb-9c52-5970f79c2fa8" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:57:37.100" UserId="1848" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2097" RevisionGUID="945a167a-50e9-4e8d-8157-93ea6e832b64" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:38:11.857" UserId="1819" Text="Assuming I understand what you're looking for, as LCD monitors don't really refresh per-se, you may just need a monitor with higher response times. Try searching for monitors &lt;3ms response time. This will be a more cost friendly solution if it meets your needs. There is very helpful information at this link to help you understand the differences. See: [http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html][1] (Be sure to click the next at the bottom left to read more.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you truly need a higher refresh rate then first you're going to need a high end graphic interface such as a HDMI or Display-Port with a graphics card that supports the higher refresh rates. (Refer to that link I posted for details supporting this.) Also, depending on how you're images are rendered, VSync may help if you're experiencing tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, NewEgg is a website I really like to shop on because of it's search engine. You can search by the features you need and require and narrow it down from there including refresh rate and response times. There is a Dell on their site that meets all your criteria except it's 27&quot; and £412.99 plus shipping. You can always buy your monitor elsewhere but this site can help you narrow your search. See: [NewEgg Search][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for other brands, ASUS is not a bad brand neither is LG, Samsung or View Sonic. LG and Samsung along with a few others manufacture their own LCD's as I understand, others buy their screens from others and re-brand them, but even LG and Samsung have been known to re-brand to meet price/demand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you find this information at least helpful if not in answer to your question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Jared&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100177437%2050001077%2050001315%2050001623%2050010772%20600557170%20600557171%20600417886%20600557169%2050001226" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2097" RevisionGUID="49c5e0b4-b00e-4d68-9b76-94fd63c7003c" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:46:55.937" UserId="1819" Comment="Improved wording and elaborated." Text="Assuming I understand what you're looking for, as LCD monitors don't really refresh per-se, you may just need a monitor with higher response times. Try searching for monitors &lt;3ms response time. This will be a more cost friendly solution if it meets your needs. There is very helpful information at this link to help you understand the differences. See: [http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html][1] (Be sure to click the next at the bottom left to read more.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you truly need a higher refresh rate then first you're going to need a high end graphic interface such as a HDMI or Display-Port with a graphics card that supports the higher refresh rates. (Refer to that link I posted for details supporting this.) Also, depending on how you're images are rendered, VSync may help if you're experiencing tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, NewEgg is a website I really like to shop on because of it's search engine. You can search by the features you need and require and narrow it down from there including refresh rate and response times. There is a Dell on their site that meets all your criteria except it's 27&quot; and £412.99 plus shipping. You can always buy your monitor elsewhere but this site can help you narrow your search. See: [My NewEgg Search][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I find that Dell monitors, while good quality, are somewhat over priced and I, therefore, prefer other brands. As for other brands, ASUS is not a bad brand neither is LG, Samsung or View Sonic. LG and Samsung along with a few others manufacture their own LCD's as I understand, others buy their screens from others and re-brand them, but even LG and Samsung have been known to re-brand to meet price/demand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you find this information at least helpful if not in answer to your question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Jared&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100177437%2050001077%2050001315%2050001623%2050010772%20600557170%20600557171%20600417886%20600557169%2050001226" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2098" RevisionGUID="4c912719-507b-4f2b-aa66-5b7a3bdf444a" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:43:34.727" UserId="1851" Text="so I'm in the process of building this Hackintosh workstation and I'm going to dual boot it with Windows 10 and Mac(El Capitan) can someone tell me if these parts are compatible or what I would have to do to make them compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2620 V3 2.4GHz 6-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: MSI X99A GAMING 7 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: 2x Samsung SSD 850 PRO 2.5&quot; SATA III 512&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: NVIDIA Quadro M4000 8GB Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi &#xD;&#xA;Adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: Thermaltake 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2098" RevisionGUID="4c912719-507b-4f2b-aa66-5b7a3bdf444a" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:43:34.727" UserId="1851" Text="Hackintosh Workstation build suggestions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2098" RevisionGUID="4c912719-507b-4f2b-aa66-5b7a3bdf444a" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:43:34.727" UserId="1851" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2099" RevisionGUID="8d33fc01-b541-45fe-9865-eac32f13cb98" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:52:35.600" UserId="912" Text="This should work perfectly except you should note that you cannot install Windows based drivers on a Mac which means that some of the more advanced functionality on some components cannot be used." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="164551db-2b32-42f9-b52c-1501111f04eb" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:19:12.900" UserId="1808" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;).  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic paper or lessons teaching how cpu works.  &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in and end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="164551db-2b32-42f9-b52c-1501111f04eb" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:19:12.900" UserId="1808" Text="Are there any commercial implementations of a nisc based cpu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="164551db-2b32-42f9-b52c-1501111f04eb" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:19:12.900" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2098" RevisionGUID="056fdb3e-4857-4c83-b67f-c275913c28e8" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:26:14.217" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7769" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="48153d6f-fef9-4490-84ef-f2142b0447b8" CreationDate="2016-02-24T00:10:14.740" UserId="1808" Comment="edited title" Text="Are there any commercial implementations of a nisc based cpu currently in production?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2094" RevisionGUID="b2f73ff0-b8c3-4a86-818a-12e112321cb6" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:58:05.190" UserId="57" Comment="Adjusts the RAM recommendation slightly based on comments." Text="If you are worried about building a machine, don't build it. You may lose out a tiny bit on hardware, but in return you usually get limited manufacturer support. The trade off between more hardware and more support is a valid reason to buy pre-built (and configured) hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next question you need to answer for yourself, is whether you are going to *actually* upgrade your hardware at some point or are you just going to *plan* on doing it, but never get around to it. Everyone wants more hardware to throw at stuff, but if you are not actually going to utilize it to it's fullest potential at some point, there is no sense in buying a machine that can have it's capacity doubled. Instead, focus on maximizing the hardware now. It sounds like this is going to be an experiment in visualization for you. It may be worth while to simply build a machine that works for now and see if visualization will work as you are hoping. If it does, consider this experiment a success and plan a truly beefy machine in a few years time to replace this proof of concept. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For my recommendations, I've made a few assumptions that may or may not fit your situation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your goal is to have server versions of the operating systems be visualized. Thus, you won't be running full desktop GUIs (frequently)&#xD;&#xA; - The goal is to have at least the minimum amount of RAM each operating system requires.&#xD;&#xA; - You will run 3 VMs&#xD;&#xA; - You will upgrade this machine to utilize more of it's capabilties at some point&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The [server](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INRMQG8/ref=wl_it_dp_v_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I29XNIY4HK2V57) you found on Amazon, doesn't appear to work for your requirements, as is. There are a few things that will trip you up in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are only 8 GB of RAM included. Personally, I wouldn't consider that &quot;lots of RAM&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, it doesn't come with hard drives. That means you have to decide what kind of storage space you want. On top of that, the drive bays don't appear to be included and the reviews say there isn't a place to mount regular drives. Configuring the storage, once you've gotten it, is an exercise left to you. Do you want one giant array? Do you want mirrored RAID? Do you want individual drives? You have to decide an configure the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, the [CPU](http://ark.intel.com/products/75784/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2420-v2-15M-Cache-2_20-GHz) is 6 cores. This means, that with 3 VMs, each of your VM can have only 2 cores. Depending on the type of development you do, this may or may not be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side, this server appears to support dual power supplies. Only one is included, but if you wanted you could add a second one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, can we make this server work? I think you can. Especially, since the price on Amazon is about $400 cheaper than I can find elsewhere. Let's use that to upgrade the specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine can handle a *lot* more hardware. The [specs sheet](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/systems/servers/towers/thinkserver/td340/#tab-tech_specs) from Lenovo shows what it can do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Up to two 10-core Intel Xeons.&#xD;&#xA; - Ram: Up to 192 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: Up to 12 3.5&quot; drives / 16 2.5&quot; drives (requires the second power supply)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, assuming we can't get all of that for $1,500, let's find something reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: [Add at least another 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EMA5VU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I3SMJEEKU9EMF6) for a total of at least 24GB for an additional $110 (per 16 GB).&#xD;&#xA; - Drives: If you want speed, get a few SSDs. If you want storage, get a few spinning drives. If you want a combination of speed and storage, mix it up. This is going to cost you a few hundred though. Adding in [drive bays for the 3.5&quot; drives](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPBEM5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BBXP3NAJKOPD&amp;coliid=I14ZEOYA6YX23D) at $15 each, adds an additional $15-$60 (assuming you are only filling 4 bays).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, the total cost is roughly $1,200-$1,300. For this, you get a system that has manufacturer support (of some kind), states in it's spec sheets that it is compatiable with a variety of operating systems (including VMware ESXi and Citrix XenServer), and has been upgraded above basic levels. It is also $200-$300 under budget (excluding taxes and shipping). It will require you to add a bit of hardware yourself though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to go over your budget by a couple hundred, it may be useful to look at filling that second CPU slot. The system already comes with one [Intel Xeon E5-2420 v2 2.2GHz 6C/12T](http://ark.intel.com/products/75784/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2420-v2-15M-Cache-2_20-GHz). A second one will cost you about $650. Before you do this, though, consider how you are going to use this machine. Are you going to use it as an experiment and see if this works? If so, adding the second CPU at this point may be overkill. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="a7ce4d44-2c8c-4f4e-ab60-45de62ee6b58" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:25:52.527" UserId="1855" Text="While cables can be found that adapt USB-C to many USB 3.0 ports, or to mDP etc., it seems there is no product out there that simply splits a single USB-C to 2 or more USB-C ports? Is there a fundamental reason why this is impossible to do? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="a7ce4d44-2c8c-4f4e-ab60-45de62ee6b58" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:25:52.527" UserId="1855" Text="Is there ANY USB-C splitter in existence?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="a7ce4d44-2c8c-4f4e-ab60-45de62ee6b58" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:25:52.527" UserId="1855" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2103" RevisionGUID="7fbcd5da-43ba-465d-90bf-839bf5a36104" CreationDate="2016-02-24T13:23:46.670" UserId="1366" Text="Actually Belkin is selling product ([USB-C 4-Port Mini Hub][1]) which meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **INPUT:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**OUTPUT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB-C&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB-A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5Gbps Data Transfer Speeds (shared)&#xD;&#xA; - Powered through USB-C host device&#xD;&#xA; - Tethered Type-C Cable for easy access&#xD;&#xA; - Ultra-portable / Slim design&#xD;&#xA; - Charge peripherals with 900mAh (shared)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F4U090/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2097" RevisionGUID="cc535899-ed77-45ce-9f86-bb13ed9def6e" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:16:44.963" UserId="1819" Comment="Elaborated answer" Text="Assuming I understand what you're looking for, as LCD monitors don't really refresh per-se, you may just need a monitor with higher response times. Try searching for monitors &lt;3ms response time. This will be a more cost friendly solution if it meets your needs. There is very helpful information at this link to help you understand the differences. See: [http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html][1] (Be sure to click the next at the bottom left to read more.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you truly need a higher refresh rate then first you're going to need a high end graphic interface such as a HDMI or Display-Port with a graphics card that supports the higher refresh rates. (Refer to that link I posted for details supporting this.) Also, depending on how you're images are rendered, VSync may help if you're experiencing tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, NewEgg is a website I really like to shop on because of it's search engine. You can search by the features you need and require and narrow it down from there including refresh rate and response times. There is a Dell on their site that meets all your criteria except it's 27&quot; and £412.99 plus shipping. You can always buy your monitor elsewhere but this site can help you narrow your search. See: [My NewEgg Search][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I find that Dell monitors, while good quality, are somewhat over priced and I, therefore, prefer other brands. As for other brands, ASUS is not a bad brand neither is LG, Samsung or View Sonic. LG and Samsung along with a few others manufacture their own LCD's as I understand, others buy their screens from others and re-brand them, but even LG and Samsung have been known to re-brand to meet price/demand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you’re probably aware, most TV’s do not truly preform at 120hz + as they claim. Also, TV’s will suffer from input lag. But they do have interpolation software in the television that adds more frames in between frames from your input (which is 60Hz. I’m afraid to get the 1ms you’re after, it just isn’t possible yet with LCD’s and current technology. 120hz at 8.333-, 144hz at 6.944, 165hz at 6.6060-, and 200hz at 5ms is the highest monitors currently available. The 240hz+ ones that I’ve seen use a TruMotion like technology, so the input is actually 120hz or even 60hz. Again these will require a high end graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't currently have a high end graphics card with HDMI or DisplayPort, you'll need to see if you have a PCI-x16 slot otherwise you may have to upgrade your PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a list of current monitors that I've found with higher refresh rates.][3] They're all targeted for gamers, but they should suite your purpose. You may have to tweak the settings in the AMD/nVidia control panel to output the frequency you're after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you find this information at least helpful if not in answer to your question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Jared&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100177437%2050001077%2050001315%2050001623%2050010772%20600557170%20600557171%20600417886%20600557169%2050001226&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.144hzmonitors.com/gaming-monitor-list-120hz-144hz-165hz-200hz-240hz/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2097" RevisionGUID="a9d14570-4aa5-4661-bfe8-c7a8debed842" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:36:35.717" UserId="1819" Comment="Elaborated answer" Text="Assuming I understand what you're looking for, as LCD monitors don't really refresh per-se, you may just need a monitor with higher response times. Try searching for monitors &lt;3ms response time. This will be a more cost friendly solution if it meets your needs. There is very helpful information at this link to help you understand the differences. See: [http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html][1] (Be sure to click the next at the bottom left to read more.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you truly need a higher refresh rate then first you're going to need a high end graphic interface such as a HDMI or Display-Port with a graphics card that supports the higher refresh rates. (Refer to that link I posted for details supporting this.) Also, depending on how you're images are rendered, VSync may help if you're experiencing tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, NewEgg is a website I really like to shop on because of it's search engine. You can search by the features you need and require and narrow it down from there including refresh rate and response times. There is a Dell on their site that meets all your criteria except it's 27&quot; and £412.99 plus shipping. You can always buy your monitor elsewhere but this site can help you narrow your search. See: [My NewEgg Search][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I find that Dell monitors, while good quality, are somewhat over priced and I, therefore, prefer other brands. As for other brands, ASUS is not a bad brand neither is LG, Samsung or View Sonic. LG and Samsung along with a few others manufacture their own LCD's as I understand, others buy their screens from others and re-brand them, but even LG and Samsung have been known to re-brand to meet price/demand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you’re probably aware, most TV’s do not truly preform at 120hz + as they claim. Also, TV’s will suffer from input lag. But they do have interpolation software in the television that adds more frames in between frames from your input (which is 60Hz. I’m afraid to get the 1ms you’re after, it just isn’t possible yet with LCD’s and current technology. 120hz at 8.333-, 144hz at 6.944, 165hz at 6.6060-, and 200hz at 5ms is the highest monitors currently available. The 240hz+ ones that I’ve seen use a TruMotion like technology, so the input is actually 120hz or even 60hz. Again these will require a high end graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't currently have a high end graphics card with HDMI or DisplayPort, you'll need to see if you have a PCI-x16 slot otherwise you may have to upgrade your PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a list of current monitors that I've found with higher refresh rates.][3] They're all targeted for gamers, but they should suite your purpose. You may have to tweak the settings in the AMD/nVidia control panel to output the frequency you're after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another consideration is the method that you're delivering the media in question to the display. For example, if you're using a compressed video, the frequency of your display refresh rate will not factor in if the video encoded at 60fps. In this you'll need to use uncompressed video or video compressed at 200fps and your PC/GPU will need to be able to handle this. This is because if you have a 200hz monitor, it is writing to the screen every 5ms witch correlates to 200 frames per second. This is way beyond the capabilities of most games and videos which are typically no more than 120 fps. Though the monitor may preform at 200hz, you wont realize the full benefit unless the video is equal or higher that the monitor. For these reasons, simply a higher response time and things like TruMotion technology will probably suite your purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you find this information at least helpful if not in answer to your question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Jared&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100177437%2050001077%2050001315%2050001623%2050010772%20600557170%20600557171%20600417886%20600557169%2050001226&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.144hzmonitors.com/gaming-monitor-list-120hz-144hz-165hz-200hz-240hz/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2097" RevisionGUID="8c078f33-7bae-476a-89fc-12bfd0ed683d" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:42:18.533" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 106 characters in body" Text="Assuming I understand what you're looking for, as LCD monitors don't really refresh per-se, you may just need a monitor with higher response times. Try searching for monitors &lt;3ms response time. This will be a more cost friendly solution if it meets your needs. There is very helpful information at this link to help you understand the differences. See: [http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html][1] (Be sure to click the next at the bottom left to read more.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you truly need a higher refresh rate then first you're going to need a high end graphic interface such as a HDMI or Display-Port with a graphics card that supports the higher refresh rates. (Refer to that link I posted for details supporting this.) Also, depending on how you're images are rendered, VSync may help if you're experiencing tearing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, NewEgg is a website I really like to shop on because of it's search engine. You can search by the features you need and require and narrow it down from there including refresh rate and response times. There is a Dell on their site that meets all your criteria except it's 27&quot; and £412.99 plus shipping. You can always buy your monitor elsewhere but this site can help you narrow your search. See: [My NewEgg Search][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I find that Dell monitors, while good quality, are somewhat over priced and I, therefore, prefer other brands. As for other brands, ASUS is not a bad brand neither is LG, Samsung or View Sonic. LG and Samsung along with a few others manufacture their own LCD's as I understand, others buy their screens from others and re-brand them, but even LG and Samsung have been known to re-brand to meet price/demand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you’re probably aware, most TV’s do not truly preform at 120hz + as they claim. Also, TV’s will suffer from input lag. But they do have interpolation software in the television that adds more frames in between frames from your input (which is 60Hz. I’m afraid to get the 1ms you’re after, it just isn’t possible yet with LCD’s and current technology. 120hz at 8.333-, 144hz at 6.944, 165hz at 6.6060-, and 200hz at 5ms is the highest monitors currently available. The 240hz+ ones that I’ve seen use a TruMotion like technology, so the input is actually 120hz or even 60hz. Again these will require a high end graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't currently have a high end graphics card with HDMI or DisplayPort, you'll need to see if you have a PCI-x16 slot otherwise you may have to upgrade your PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a list of current monitors that I've found with higher refresh rates.][3] They're all targeted for gamers, but they should suit your purpose. You may have to tweak the settings in the AMD/nVidia control panel to output the frequency you're after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another consideration is the method that you're delivering the media in question to the display. For example, if you're using a compressed video, the frequency of your display refresh rate will not factor in if the video encoded at 60fps. In this you'll need to use uncompressed video or video compressed at 200fps and your PC/GPU will need to be able to handle this. This is because if you have a 200hz monitor, it is writing to the screen every 5ms witch correlates to 200 frames per second. This is way beyond the capabilities of most games and videos which are typically no more than 120 fps. Though the monitor may preform at 200hz, you won't realize the full benefit unless the video is equal or higher that the monitor. For these reasons, simply a higher response time and things like TruMotion technology will probably suit your purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tweakguides.com/Graphics_7.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100177437%2050001077%2050001315%2050001623%2050010772%20600557170%20600557171%20600417886%20600557169%2050001226&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.144hzmonitors.com/gaming-monitor-list-120hz-144hz-165hz-200hz-240hz/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2105" RevisionGUID="d99682a3-e645-4bff-839d-ace784af4c50" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:34:41.460" UserId="1859" Text="Samsung all day, every day. Their warranty is amazing and the speeds are all at the top of the charts. I've installed several Evos and Pros in systems and have been nothing but thrilled with the results, especially in older systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="e558f022-ef89-4831-b9cb-7c309f71858f" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:25:22.560" UserId="1428" Text="My recommendation is based on experience, In last 6 months i have tried 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM in the same order&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2107" RevisionGUID="ba9d6fd8-9b0f-4f5e-a2f8-dec851087ddc" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:07:21.630" UserId="1863" Text="You can use HP Dl585 G5 or DL385 G5. These servers use AMD based processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;both of them take PC2_5300 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DL385 G5 Specs&#xD;&#xA;Memory : Up to 128 GB (with PC2-5300 8GB DIMMs). PC2-6400 800MHz DDR2 Select models support 2:1 Bank Interleaving.&#xD;&#xA;4:1 Bank Interleaving (Data saved across 2 pairs of DIMMs) and Node interleaving support (data saved across 2&#xD;&#xA;processors memory sets) also available&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04286576.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DL 585 G5&#xD;&#xA;PC2-5300 Registered DIMMs at 667 MHz&#xD;&#xA;http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04286140.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2108" RevisionGUID="9ae5d2d8-fa19-4616-b159-d83901ad78cc" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:12:53.273" UserId="1861" Text="I've always used full sized keyboards, with high profile keys. (I'm a developer)&#xD;&#xA;I think it's time to make some changes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today I went to a big computer shop. Tried out many keyboards. Mainly from Logitech and Microsoft. I even tried some  gaming keyboards, but I was very disappointed with how they all felt. Except one! The Logitech K740. This keyboard really stood out. It has very low profiles keys, right spacing between the keys, big keys, a little bend/curving in the keys like on traditional keyboards and illuminated keys. It just felt right. By the way is was also the best looking keyboard of all off them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only one problem it was not wireless. Something I'm really want right now. Ideally with Bluetooth support. Even beter, multiple channels like the Logitech MX Master mouse would be great. I want to invest in one keyboard that works on my desktop computer but also on other (mobile) devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summaries, I'm looking for a modern, good looking wireless keyboard, that has a good quality feeling. So far hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech keybord K740][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/13JWr.jpg &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2108" RevisionGUID="9ae5d2d8-fa19-4616-b159-d83901ad78cc" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:12:53.273" UserId="1861" Text="A true wireless alternative for the Logitech K740 keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2108" RevisionGUID="9ae5d2d8-fa19-4616-b159-d83901ad78cc" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:12:53.273" UserId="1861" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="90d38573-4719-4ce9-b56a-20015ae8d709" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:15:04.270" UserId="1428" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="My recommendation is based on experience, In last 6 months i have tried 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM in the same order&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Choice Between***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBM System X3850 M2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="25b74b29-78e7-426d-bdb5-992564b0c77f" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:28:22.080" UserId="1428" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="My recommendation is based on experience, In last 6 months i have tried 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM in the same order&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Choice Between***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBM System X3850 M2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, then you need 5 x 3.5 2TB SATA Drives that's like 5 x $60 = $300 + Server Cost. Cheapest option with 10TB Capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="7feb5a38-13f6-49e4-beb2-3e0ad790ea4b" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:32:17.387" UserId="1428" Comment="added 118 characters in body" Text="I would recommend again us building one it would cost you more to build one from scratch than just buying a used one&#xA;&#xA;My recommendation is based on experience, In last 6 months i have tried 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM in the same order&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Choice Between***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP DL580 G5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBM System X3850 M2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, then you need 5 x 3.5 2TB SATA Drives that's like 5 x $60 = $300 + Server Cost. Cheapest option with 10TB Capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2110" RevisionGUID="af93f7d6-b4ef-4e64-8401-c3234089806a" CreationDate="2016-02-24T23:25:24.850" UserId="1861" Text="I suppose you mean an USB 3.1 hub with USB-C on both ends. Because the USB standard does not support splitters. It always needs a hub. USB charging/power cables are the exception.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also USB-C refers to the port not the cable itself. For example you can have USB 3.1 cable (with type C connectors) or a Thunderbolt 3 cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trust and Belkin have similar mini hubs:  &#xD;&#xA;Trust: [USB TYPE-C 4 PORTS USB3.0 HUB](http://www.trust.com/en/product/20820-usb-type-c-4-ports-usb3-0-hub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be aware, both hubs (Trust and Belkin) are USB 3.1 Gen 1 (5 gbps) NOT Gen 2. So far  I haven't seen a Gen 2 (10 gbps) hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment it is just to early. I can imagine that in the near future many USB 3.1 gen 2 hubs will come to market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/37Ds4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2103" RevisionGUID="49e1134c-0eb8-491c-870c-24aa3e10474e" CreationDate="2016-02-25T00:43:00.700" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="Belkin is selling a product ([USB-C 4-Port Mini Hub][1]) which meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Input:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Output:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB-C&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB-A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5Gbps Data Transfer Speeds (shared)&#xD;&#xA; - Powered through USB-C host device&#xD;&#xA; - Tethered Type-C Cable for easy access&#xD;&#xA; - Ultra-portable / Slim design&#xD;&#xA; - Charge peripherals with 900mAh (shared)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F4U090/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="8b207d3d-4c3a-402c-b01b-3f8f58ef7fde" CreationDate="2016-02-25T01:06:39.410" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="05b38d57-ef6c-4e1b-a339-6606feb8e77d" CreationDate="2016-02-25T01:13:31.817" UserId="1808" Comment="edited body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;).  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic paper or lessons teaching how cpu works.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="78ef6780-c659-4746-8698-3c3dcc5c8d77" CreationDate="2016-02-25T01:24:49.413" UserId="1808" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;).  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="08838ee5-6af8-4b08-a28e-cfd1f08c6334" CreationDate="2016-02-25T04:51:30.763" UserId="1428" Comment="deleted 40 characters in body; added 18 characters in body" Text="It would cost you more to build one from scratch than just buying a used one&#xA;&#xA;My recommendation is based on experience,&#xA;&#xA;In last 6 months i have used 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Models***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge R900(more choice)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP DL580 G5(most favorite)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBM System X3850 M2(least favorite)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, then you need 5 x 3.5 2TB SATA Drives that's like 5 x $60 = $300 + Server Cost. Cheapest option with 10TB Capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="d6183ee3-3d36-4e17-a39e-6df7fb5fac28" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:05:08.023" UserId="1866" Text="I want to buy a new pc soon and want to build it myself. Now I figured out the components I want to use. Could you tell me, whether everything fits together and if I can get something better for the same price (so if there is a better or newer component for the same price)? Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: i7-4790k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate (especially here I'm not fure whether my graphic card i chose will fit on the mainboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU cooler: Thermaltake Contac 21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: G.Skill DIMM 32 GB DDR4-2133 Kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphic card: Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 390 OC Tri-X NITRO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 1 TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: Sharkoon VS4-V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power supply: Thermaltake Berlin 630W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fans: 2 x be quiet! Silent Wings 2 120 mm (is this needed?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course a CD-drive and Windows 8.1 on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry to not ne able to post links, as I do not have 10 reputation yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7816" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="d6183ee3-3d36-4e17-a39e-6df7fb5fac28" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:05:08.023" UserId="1866" Text="Will this computer fullfill my expectations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="d6183ee3-3d36-4e17-a39e-6df7fb5fac28" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:05:08.023" UserId="1866" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="804735d9-33a6-4ac2-b2cc-4daf0bfe0fa4" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:10:30.790" UserId="1866" Comment="edited body" Text="I want to buy a new pc soon and want to build it myself. Now I figured out the components I want to use. Could you tell me, whether everything fits together and if I can get something better for the same price (so if there is a better or newer component for the same price)? Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: i7-4790k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate (especially here I'm not fure whether my graphic card i chose will fit on the mainboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU cooler: Thermaltake Contac 21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: G.Skill DIMM 32 GB DDR4-2133 Kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphic card: Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 390 OC Tri-X NITRO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 1 TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: Sharkoon VS4-W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power supply: Thermaltake Berlin 630W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fans: 2 x be quiet! Silent Wings 2 120 mm (is this needed?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course a CD-drive and Windows 8.1 on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry to not ne able to post links, as I do not have 10 reputation yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="804735d9-33a6-4ac2-b2cc-4daf0bfe0fa4" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:10:30.790" UserId="1866" Comment="edited body" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2112" RevisionGUID="6e02cd1c-5bbc-4156-bf2d-58afc1577ca6" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:44:14.237" UserId="1366" Text="Most important question is what is your budget and what will you use it for ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I have some doubts about your setup and I will list them below changing some elements to &quot;better&quot; or &quot;compatible&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.Why Haswell not Skylake ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are thinking about so strong setup you should think about newest platform (Skylake) and change CPU and Motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Intel Core i7-6700K][1] ~$380&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming][2] ~$155&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should also change your RAM memory to higher frequency. RAM listed below is good example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB)][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.If it is your intetion to stay with Haswell you have few parts which won't fit in your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU/Motherboard - You want to buy so good CPU with OC possibility (letter K at the end of CPU ) but your motherboard won't give you OC possibility. There are two ways to change it. First you can buy Motherboard with Z97 chipset to have OC possibility (for example [MSI Z97 Gaming 5][4] ~$135). If you want to stay without OC possibility you should change i7-4690K to i7-4690.&#xD;&#xA; - RAM which you choosed is not compatible with your Motherboard (it is DDR4 and your motherboard uses DDR3) so you should choose something like this: [Crucial Ballistix Tactical 32GB (4 x 8GB)][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.If this build is prepared for gaming I would buy maximum of 16GB RAM it will be enough for a long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.If you are thinking about OC in setup with this GPU and CPU I would buy a little better PSU, for example [XFX TS Series P1 750W][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.Fans. They will be needed If you decide to overclock your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132567&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232223&amp;cm_re=gskill-_-20-232-223-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130770&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148659&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207033&amp;cm_re=XFX_TS_750W-_-17-207-033-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="2c64c2ae-70d5-4d14-9e94-4102d606a389" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:20:27.800" UserId="1802" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="2c64c2ae-70d5-4d14-9e94-4102d606a389" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:20:27.800" UserId="1802" Text="Outdoor IP Camera with built in FTP (SFTP, web) server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="2c64c2ae-70d5-4d14-9e94-4102d606a389" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:20:27.800" UserId="1802" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;waterproof&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="17ea0964-b1a8-487f-9949-e3c69a79b5ea" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:28:13.447" UserId="1802" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2111" RevisionGUID="711b6e30-c216-4044-8aeb-c3adee72d5df" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:54:36.443" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="1f601c77-5c22-429e-9754-3c0305f32c90" CreationDate="2016-02-25T10:51:50.170" UserId="1802" Comment="added 218 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="077a0eac-65ea-407f-80b0-c72788621ea1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:33:47.757" UserId="614" Text="Can someone recomend cheap (up to $15-$20) device that can recive wireless signal from my main router and transfer it to classic network wired switch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found bunch of cheap repeaters on ebay, but don't know if any of them can pass signal to wired network..&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="077a0eac-65ea-407f-80b0-c72788621ea1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:33:47.757" UserId="614" Text="WiFi repeater recomendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="077a0eac-65ea-407f-80b0-c72788621ea1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:33:47.757" UserId="614" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="f41a5233-b8e6-4318-9b11-d926d0c5e23f" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:17:01.777" UserId="1802" Comment="added 230 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works. From [this link][3] it seems that it is rather used for sending pictures from the camera to be shown on a web page which is quite useless for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cameraftp.com/CameraFTP/Support/SupportedCameras.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2116" RevisionGUID="032a8340-e9d0-4a4a-9f2d-80329eedb0c6" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:45:10.387" UserId="1867" Text="I would recommend getting WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;It's trending around $15 and you might be even albe to negotiate down further.&#xD;&#xA;www.ebay.com/itm/172094577410&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are Dual-Band wireless-N Routers, so you have use one band just for bridging between your main router and second band can be used for extending the signal further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it will pass the signal to wired networks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Experience***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I Bought mine from ecost in January 2012 for $39.99 each and i am still happy with it&#xD;&#xA; 2. Took me few hours to flash them as this was my first attempt at dd-wrt&#xD;&#xA; 3. My main router is downstairs and 2nd router is upstairs(my office) right above the main router physically. &#xD;&#xA; 4. I have a gigabit network switch upstairs that is connected to several machines connected to this switch&#xD;&#xA; 5. both routers on 192.168.1.x network and all machines connected to any of the routers are able to communicate with each other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DD-WRT Instructions***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any trouble after these instructions you can always ask for help on superusers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="db785652-3631-4f29-86da-c29814468b03" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:48:44.723" UserId="1802" Comment="added 424 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works. From [this link][3] it seems that it is rather used for sending pictures from the camera to be shown on a web page which is quite useless for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking around my last hot candidate are Panasonic cameras WV-SFV6 series - in their [manual][4] there is on the page 160 an option `Allow FTP access to camera`. This seems to be promising, even there is a data structure on the last page, that looks very well, any experience with this or anything similar?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cameraftp.com/CameraFTP/Support/SupportedCameras.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ssbu-t.psn-web.net/Products/IP_camera/WV-SFV631L_611L/Manual/PGQP1582WAC1_WV-SPN631_OI_en.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="dd1cc87a-1a42-4c23-a5c8-81eead26f127" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:16:11.730" UserId="1111" Text="I have [crash cart adapter](http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/USB-Crash-Cart-Adapter~NOTECONS02X) with a VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need support for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVI-I (full size required, mini would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI (full size [A] required, C and D would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- DisplayPort (full size and mini [mini displayport covers thunderbolt] required, micro would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an adapter that takes these as input and converts to VGA output, with all these built into one just to minimize the number of things I need to carry around. Ideally the configuration would be a female VGA output port, then male cables for all the other types sticking out so I don't need to carry a set of cables around either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does a combined adapter like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="dd1cc87a-1a42-4c23-a5c8-81eead26f127" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:16:11.730" UserId="1111" Text="Multiple display connector combo adapter to VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="dd1cc87a-1a42-4c23-a5c8-81eead26f127" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:16:11.730" UserId="1111" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2118" RevisionGUID="6185facb-72ef-4114-93c9-ee301a5f209c" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:28:39.367" UserId="1111" Text="Another option, for even longer distances, is a **KVM over CAT5 extender**. [Startech has many options](http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Extenders/?page=all), among other vendors. I'd search on Amazon as the prices are generally better than buying directly from Startech.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, the [SV565UTP](http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Extenders/PS2-USB-KVM-Console-Extender-UTP-500-ft-150m~SV565UTP) (they are sold in pairs):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You take one and put it next to the computer and connect it to the machine's keyboard, mouse, and monitor outputs. You take the other one and plug a keyboard, mouse, and monitor into it. Then you run a CAT5 cable between them and you get up to 500 feet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They make longer distance ones; there's a 650 ft VGA/USB extender, there's a whopping 1500 ft DVI/USB extender, and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are overkill for your 55 ft in terms of cost, but if you need even longer runs, or you have the budget, they're a good option. It's a lot easier to run CAT5 through walls and such than VGA / DVI, too, and cheaper to replace failed cables (or re-terminated failed connectors). If the building already has CAT5 wiring for ethernet you may be able to repurpose one of the existing runs. If you already have a network closet with a patch bay for wall jacks around the building, it also makes moving your console around in the future pretty trivial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4Rkrg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="b0113e75-1c4f-41ff-8a3f-c76b54ccbbc7" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:35:28.650" UserId="1111" Comment="added 310 characters in body" Text="I have [crash cart adapter](http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/USB-Crash-Cart-Adapter~NOTECONS02X) with a VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need support for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVI-I (full size required, mini would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI (full size [A] required, C and D would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- DisplayPort (full size and mini [mini displayport covers thunderbolt] required, micro would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an adapter that takes these as input and converts to VGA output, with all these built into one just to minimize the number of things I need to carry around. Ideally the configuration would be a female VGA output port, then male cables for all the other types sticking out so I don't need to carry a set of cables around either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's OK if it has other connectors in addition to those listed above.&#xD;&#xA;- I do not care about size or weight, to an extent. It must be reasonably portable, but it's more important to minimize the *number* of things I carry around rather than the amount of space they take up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does a combined adapter like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2116" RevisionGUID="f384545d-c1de-4e53-a0eb-29a13283cf22" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:41:19.317" UserId="1111" Comment="su link and capitalization as per trademark guidance" Text="I would recommend getting WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;It's trending around $15 and you might be even albe to negotiate down further.&#xD;&#xA;www.ebay.com/itm/172094577410&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are Dual-Band wireless-N Routers, so you have use one band just for bridging between your main router and second band can be used for extending the signal further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it will pass the signal to wired networks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Experience***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I Bought mine from ecost in January 2012 for $39.99 each and i am still happy with it&#xD;&#xA; 2. Took me few hours to flash them as this was my first attempt at dd-wrt&#xD;&#xA; 3. My main router is downstairs and 2nd router is upstairs(my office) right above the main router physically. &#xD;&#xA; 4. I have a gigabit network switch upstairs that is connected to several machines connected to this switch&#xD;&#xA; 5. both routers on 192.168.1.x network and all machines connected to any of the routers are able to communicate with each other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DD-WRT Instructions***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any trouble after these instructions you can always ask for help on [Super User](http://superuser.com).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2116" RevisionGUID="f384545d-c1de-4e53-a0eb-29a13283cf22" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:41:19.317" Comment="Proposed by 1111 approved by 57, 1 edit id of 401" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="f84a0a31-23ba-4bdb-b2b2-07e01a3cf0b8" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:44:09.817" UserId="1111" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I have a [crash cart adapter](http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/USB-Crash-Cart-Adapter~NOTECONS02X) with a VGA input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need support for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVI-I (full size required, mini would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI (full size [A] required, C and D would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- DisplayPort (full size and mini [mini displayport covers thunderbolt] required, micro would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an adapter that takes these as input and converts to VGA output, with all these built into one just to minimize the number of things I need to carry around. Ideally the configuration would be a female VGA output port, then male cables for all the other types sticking out so I don't need to carry a set of cables around either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's OK if it has other connectors in addition to those listed above.&#xD;&#xA;- I do not care about size or weight, to an extent. It must be reasonably portable, but it's more important to minimize the *number* of things I carry around rather than the amount of space they take up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does a combined adapter like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2120" RevisionGUID="3fa972f5-c042-4cfe-8172-b0798e74e25e" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:57:10.060" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2121" RevisionGUID="4499847c-30db-4483-9f37-e738a29d4a47" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:57:10.060" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices used to split the signal of one connection into two or more of the same or different type." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2122" RevisionGUID="3825febf-eb04-45bc-82a2-ec0d770b43dd" CreationDate="2016-02-25T20:20:10.077" UserId="1884" Text="I used to use one of these to server as a wireless receiver for a machine that only had an ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mbps/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456431352&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WR702N+Wireless+N150+Travel+Router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to serving as a &quot;wireless card&quot; for me device it also could have been configured to serve as an access point, a repeater and a few other functions. Once I got it configured it worked well and never gave me any problems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2116" RevisionGUID="e71e0f1e-d824-431b-adc4-1372a57d2ec6" CreationDate="2016-02-25T20:36:42.477" UserId="1867" Comment="edited body" Text="I would recommend getting WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;It's trending around $15 and you might be even able to negotiate down further.&#xD;&#xA;www.ebay.com/itm/172094577410&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are Dual-Band wireless-N Routers, so you can use one band just for bridging between your main router and second band can be used for extending the signal further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it will pass the signal to wired networks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Experience***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I Bought mine from ecost in January 2012 for $39.99 each and i am still happy with it&#xD;&#xA; 2. Took me few hours to flash them as this was my first attempt at dd-wrt&#xD;&#xA; 3. My main router is downstairs and 2nd router is upstairs(my office) right above the main router physically. &#xD;&#xA; 4. I have a gigabit network switch upstairs that is connected to several machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. Both routers on 192.168.1.x network and all machines connected to any of the routers are able to communicate with each other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DD-WRT Instructions***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_WRT400N&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any trouble after these instructions you can always ask for help on [Super User](http://superuser.com).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="afd3ff74-5660-4758-9fec-1d6cecf6af6e" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:41:00.617" UserId="1885" Text="I am exploring options for a network attached storage system, but I want to have full control over the hardware, so a prepackaged system is not a viable solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have access to free Intel NUC units, the specific model is something I can pick at the time I decide to get it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are super-tiny mini-PCIe RAID controllers like [this Syba unit][1] that i can use to connect the drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I can't seem to find is a chassis that can accept a NUC board but has space for two (or even better, three, because the NUC has it's own SATA port) 2.5&quot; or 3.5&quot; drives. Every chassis I've seen only fits one 2.5&quot; drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124074" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="afd3ff74-5660-4758-9fec-1d6cecf6af6e" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:41:00.617" UserId="1885" Text="Are there any chassis that accept a NUC board but accommodate more than one drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="afd3ff74-5660-4758-9fec-1d6cecf6af6e" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:41:00.617" UserId="1885" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2122" RevisionGUID="5af573ea-deac-4439-bb23-7aeec3e921b2" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:45:44.120" UserId="1884" Comment="correcting spelling" Text="I used to use one of these to serve as a wireless receiver for a machine that only had an ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mbps/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456431352&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WR702N+Wireless+N150+Travel+Router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to serving as a &quot;wireless card&quot; for my device it also could have been configured to serve as an access point, a repeater and a few other functions. Once I got it configured it worked well and never gave me any problems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2122" RevisionGUID="77625ea5-035f-4433-83b5-5640905903d1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:14:51.003" UserId="1884" Comment="added 541 characters in body" Text="I used to use one of these to serve as a wireless receiver for a machine that only had an ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mbps/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456431352&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WR702N+Wireless+N150+Travel+Router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to serving as a &quot;wireless card&quot; for my device it also could have been configured to serve as an access point, a repeater and a few other functions. Once I got it configured it worked well and never gave me any problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add that to configure this I didn't have to do anything fancy, the device came with a small disc that contained some configuration software, I had to install the software and plug it into my computer to do the initial setup which wasn't any different than logging into your router normally would be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally there is more than one model that has this form factor (the nano size), it would behoove you to make sure the one you are looking at will be able to handle the sort of traffic you plan to run through it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="f0de158a-fa73-4279-8453-42f7350789ec" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:34:13.883" UserId="1885" Comment="Size doesn't matter... in this case, anyway." Text="I am exploring options for a network attached storage system, but I want to have full control over the hardware, so a prepackaged system is not a viable solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size is not a significant concern, but I have access to free Intel NUC units, so I'd like to make use of one (the specific model is something I can pick at the time I decide to get it). There are mini-PCIe RAID controllers like [this Syba unit][1] that i can use to connect a couple drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I can't seem to find is a chassis that can accept a NUC board but has space for two (or even better, three, because the NUC has it's own SATA port) 2.5&quot; or 3.5&quot; drives. Every chassis I've seen only fits one 2.5&quot; drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124074" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="8eabc371-158a-48fc-832a-c6d773a7294b" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:44:12.650" UserId="1885" Comment="edited body" Text="I am exploring options for a network attached storage system, but I want to have full control over the hardware, so a prepackaged system is not a viable solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size is not a significant concern, but I have access to free Intel NUC units, so I'd like to make use of one (the specific model is something I can pick at the time I decide to get it). There are mini-PCIe RAID controllers like [this Syba unit][1] that I can use to connect a couple drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I can't seem to find is a chassis that can accept a NUC board but has space for two (or even better, three, because the NUC has it's own SATA port) 2.5&quot; or 3.5&quot; drives. Every chassis I've seen only fits one 2.5&quot; drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124074" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2124" RevisionGUID="8df76216-a4f1-45bf-8be4-dc25a8fdc0e4" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:06:48.123" UserId="531" Text="I'd rather build than buy. It really depends on your needs though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're worried about noise, a home system actually makes a decent VM box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few things I go for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. More cores. Get at least a quad core. For *serious* work a 'mainstream' core I7 is a decent workhorse machine &#xD;&#xA;2. At *least* 16 gigs of ram - the 'right' amount is enough ram for the host + enough ram for each VM. 8gb is a bit of a minimum I guess&#xD;&#xA;3. Enough storage -8? 16?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're *buying* a dell precison might be a good option. Old workplace had them and they were tanky, reliable beasts, and they fall within your price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5000 series might be a good starting point - possibly the [base model][1]. I'd take a look at parts prices before adding any options since it may make sense to buy parts elsewhere to upgrade the ram and HDD. These things can go up to *8* cores if I remember correctly and are basically server grade parts set up as a desktop. I'm more familiar with the 7000 series, but those are for when you need *two* processors and is somewhat out of budget. Nonetheless, very solid machines, you're covered by the warranty, and if you're willing to spend a little extra, trivial to order what you need and know that it works&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternately, I was thinking of turning one of these into a gaming box...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Might take a bit of tweaking to get it in your budget but a [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][2] might be a good start Its ~1000usd *but* that gets you *8* cores. Load it up with 32gb (4x8, or 2x16) of ram at least of the cheapest standard DDR4 ram you can find. In theory, you can go up to *128* gb with Rdimms. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its mini itx (so you can use a smaller case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its somewhat limited in terms of video (VGA...) but also has IPMI (for out of band management, which is cool) and is *designed* for being a VM host, but at reasonable power consumption. Most of the xeon-d models are interesting, but this is the 'cheapest' one I could find with a fan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB ports are somewhat limited as well, and you have *one* pciex16, but that's more than you would on a laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-t5810-workstation/pd?oc=cup5810w7p&amp;model_id=precision-t5810-workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/D/X10SDV-6C_-TLN4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2124" RevisionGUID="961dc6d6-35fe-4b64-85d9-d29169ea7f9b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:15:03.240" UserId="531" Comment="added 508 characters in body" Text="I'd rather build than buy. It really depends on your needs though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're worried about noise, a home system actually makes a decent VM box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few things I go for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. More cores. Get at least a quad core. For *serious* work a 'mainstream' core I7 is a decent workhorse machine &#xD;&#xA;2. At *least* 16 gigs of ram - the 'right' amount is enough ram for the host + enough ram for each VM. 8gb is a bit of a minimum I guess&#xD;&#xA;3. Enough storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. No OS. Most of the good VM servers are free,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to use this as a development box and want to run linux, fedora is a good bet. *Excellent* support for KVM and virt manager.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're *buying* as opposed to building, a dell precison might be a good option. Old workplace had them and they were tanky, reliable beasts, and they fall within your price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5000 series might be a good starting point - possibly the [base model][1]. I'd take a look at parts prices before adding any options since it may make sense to buy parts elsewhere to upgrade the ram and HDD. These things can go up to *8* cores if I remember correctly and are basically server grade parts set up as a desktop. I'm more familiar with the 7000 series, but those are for when you need *two* processors and is somewhat out of budget. Nonetheless, very solid machines, you're covered by the warranty, and if you're willing to spend a little extra, trivial to order what you need and know that it works&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrades from the base model? Up the ram to 16gb, drop the OS (most of the good VM hosts are free anyway). Get a 3TB HGST deskstar drive. I'd be tempted to slot in an SSD for the OS (I would suggest a 256gb Samsung 850 *pro*) , but these things take a while to boot due to the raid controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're building&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Might take a bit of tweaking to get it in your budget but a [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][2] might be a good start Its ~1000usd *but* that gets you *8* cores. Load it up with 32gb (4x8, or 2x16) of ram at least of the cheapest standard DDR4 ram you can find. In theory, you can go up to *128* gb with Rdimms. Don't bother with ECC in this case, not really worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its mini itx (so you can use a smaller case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its somewhat limited in terms of video (VGA...) but also has IPMI (for out of band management, which is cool) and is *designed* for being a VM host, but at reasonable power consumption. Most of the xeon-d models are interesting, but this is the 'cheapest' one I could find with a fan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB ports are somewhat limited as well, and you have *one* pciex16, but that's more than you would on a laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-t5810-workstation/pd?oc=cup5810w7p&amp;model_id=precision-t5810-workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/D/X10SDV-6C_-TLN4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2106" RevisionGUID="94665a7c-d102-4c8d-a21c-61b81c3ee9d9" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:21:42.423" UserId="1428" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="It would cost you more to build one from scratch than just buying a used one&#xA;&#xA;My recommendation is based on experience,&#xA;&#xA;In last 6 months i have used 4U servers from 3 different vendors, Dell, HP, IBM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Models***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge R900(more choices in HDD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP DL580 G5(most favorite)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBM System X3850 M2(least favorite)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Dell PowerEdge R900***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $300&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 16 or 10TB Storage Choice of 5 of 3.5 or 8 x 2.5 inch drives formats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Like a jet engine&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, difficult to lift and move with just one person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***HP DL 580 G5***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. Maximum 32TB or 16TB storage&#xD;&#xA;8 x 2.5 inch drives or if you add another SAS RAID Card you can go up 16 x 2.5 Drives. Maximum storage 2TB per drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : Loud but less louder than R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Heavy, but lighter than R900 and it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***IBM System X3850***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4 Quad Cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. 128GB or 256GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can buy used from ebay starting $200 for 128GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Noise level : quieter compared to both DL580 and R900&#xD;&#xA; 2. Similar in weight as DL580 it has hooks on both side for easy lifting so one person can lift it&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. Maximum 8TB Storage : 4 x 2.5 inch drives, yes only 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***My Personal Comments***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am divided between DL580 and R900. i like both of these and i have both of them at home. IBM System X3850 was Dead on arrival, machine powered on but it never recognized physical drives so i had to return it. It was quieter out of the three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***How i use them***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use them to Run Virtual Machines. I power them on when i need them. I have WOL Enabled with port forwarding for WOL so i power them on from my phone whether i am home or not. They sit in my office where i do not sit so i never hear the noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Storage Needs*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing only Dl580 and R900&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use SATA to store my data coz it's cheap and high capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R900 comes with either 3.5 or 2.5 inch drives. So if you storage need is 10TB or less then i would recommend going with 3.5 drives as you can get those cheaper like $50/each. and if money is not a concern then you can go with 2.5 inch drives and you can go to 8x 2TB SATA = 16TB on both R900 and DL580. one 2TB 2.5 STA would cost you around $100 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you have a need for even higher storage let's say 32TB&#xD;&#xA;Then go with Dl580 G5&#xD;&#xA;you can add a second RAID card for like $15 and then just add 8 more 2.5 SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;so total storage 16 x 2TB = 32TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Summary***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - All the above 3 machines have similar CPUs and Similar memory and storage is the key deciding factor among st others mentioned above&#xD;&#xA; - if you want 32TB of storage get DL580 add a second RAID card you would have to purchase 16 x 2 TB 2.5 SATA Drives that would cost you $1600 just for hard Drives + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA; - If you want 16TB of space you can go with either R900 or DL580, my blind recommendation DL580, nicer and quieter compared to R900, it would cost you $800 just for Hard Drives  + Server Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if you are okay with 10TB of storage of less, go with R900 but make sure to get the one that takes 3.5 drives, then you need 5 x 3.5 2TB SATA Drives that's like 5 x $60 = $300 + Server Cost. Cheapest option with 10TB Capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2125" RevisionGUID="ac57d7b0-6b39-4c60-a20e-bd08a6e4eed9" CreationDate="2016-02-26T04:25:49.167" UserId="203" Text="My recommendations @ [Sabmegastore][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** [Intel Core i5 Quad core 3.2 GHz CPU][2] 248.90 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is a quad core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** [GIGABYTE Z170-HD3P][3] 142.90 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has 2 x PCIe x16 sots. One only uses x4 lanes though. Also has 2 x PCI and support for RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5, and RAID 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** CRUCIAL DIMM DDR4 - 8G PC4-17000 - 2133MHZ (CL15, 1.2V)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want any, Sabmegstore sells them 49.90 € a stick. Total for 16 GB is 99.80 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDD:** Reuse assumed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case:** I assume you already have an ATX one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** GIGABYTE GEFORCE GT 740&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Much faster than Iris.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assembly + 2 year warrenty is 69.00 €, otherwise buy the parts separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sabmegastore.com/commande.php?cat=mont&amp;sm=4&amp;p=1&amp;mu=&amp;comp=ORB000&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88184/Intel-Core-i5-6500-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5495" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2124" RevisionGUID="3f847791-dce7-49ab-a28c-f5ab5273761b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T06:58:37.620" UserId="531" Comment="added 459 characters in body" Text="I'd rather build than buy. It really depends on your needs though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're worried about noise, a home system actually makes a decent VM box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few things I go for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. More cores. Get at least a quad core. For *serious* work a 'mainstream' core. I like a minimum of a quad core box - a core i7 is a decent workhorse machine, but both my recommendations are xeons. I typically run single core VMs &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. At *least* 16 gigs of ram - the 'right' amount is enough ram for the host + enough ram for each VM. 8gb is a bit of a minimum I guess&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Enough storage. I favour SSDs for booting and speed reliant things - the samsung 850 pro 256gb is my preferred mainline SSD but the evo would work if you have the budget and want a 1tb SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reliable storage, I prefer HGST - they have a nas line of deskstars I'd suggest taking a look at, though I have a pile of older, very trusty desktar models&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. No OS. Most of the good VM servers are free,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to use this as a development box and want to run linux, fedora is a good bet. *Excellent* support for KVM and virt manager.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're *buying* as opposed to building, a dell precison might be a good option. Old workplace had them and they were tanky, reliable beasts, and they fall within your price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5000 series might be a good starting point - possibly the [base model][1]. I'd take a look at parts prices before adding any options since it may make sense to buy parts elsewhere to upgrade the ram and HDD. These things can go up to *8* cores if I remember correctly and are basically server grade parts set up as a desktop. I'm more familiar with the 7000 series, but those are for when you need *two* processors and is somewhat out of budget. Nonetheless, very solid machines, you're covered by the warranty, and if you're willing to spend a little extra, trivial to order what you need and know that it works&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrades from the base model? Up the ram to 16gb, drop the OS (most of the good VM hosts are free anyway). Get a 3TB HGST deskstar drive. I'd be tempted to slot in an SSD for the OS (I would suggest a 256gb Samsung 850 *pro*) , but these things take a while to boot due to the raid controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're building&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Might take a bit of tweaking to get it in your budget but a [X10SDV-8C+-LN2F][2] might be a good start Its ~1000usd *but* that gets you *8* cores. Load it up with 32gb (4x8, or 2x16) of ram at least of the cheapest standard DDR4 ram you can find. In theory, you can go up to *128* gb with Rdimms. Don't bother with ECC in this case, not really worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its mini itx (so you can use a smaller case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its somewhat limited in terms of video (VGA...) but also has IPMI (for out of band management, which is cool) and is *designed* for being a VM host, but at reasonable power consumption. Most of the xeon-d models are interesting, but this is the 'cheapest' one I could find with a fan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB ports are somewhat limited as well, and you have *one* pciex16, but that's more than you would on a laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-t5810-workstation/pd?oc=cup5810w7p&amp;model_id=precision-t5810-workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/D/X10SDV-6C_-TLN4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="7dfbe2d5-8285-41e9-9f73-2ab2f46e2ea0" CreationDate="2016-02-26T07:05:40.243" UserId="1802" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works. From [this link][3] it seems that it is rather used for sending pictures from the camera to be shown on a web page which is quite useless for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking around my last hot candidate are Panasonic cameras WV-SFV6 series - in their [manual][4] there is on the page 160 an option `Allow FTP access to camera`. This seems to be promising, even there is a data structure on the last page that looks very well, any experience with this or anything similar?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cameraftp.com/CameraFTP/Support/SupportedCameras.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ssbu-t.psn-web.net/Products/IP_camera/WV-SFV631L_611L/Manual/PGQP1582WAC1_WV-SPN631_OI_en.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="00a9fb77-095f-44a4-8b8b-8910f6cd9136" CreationDate="2016-02-26T08:34:03.313" UserId="1802" Comment="added 146 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works. From [this link][3] it seems that it is rather used for sending pictures from the camera to be shown on a web page which is quite useless for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking around my last hot candidate are Panasonic cameras WV-SFV6 series - in their [manual][4] there is on the page 160 an option `Allow FTP access to camera`. This seems to be promising, even there is a data structure on the last page that looks very well, any experience with this or anything similar?&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that theese cameras are relatively expensive and perhaps installing less expensive camera tohether with NVR would be less costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cameraftp.com/CameraFTP/Support/SupportedCameras.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ssbu-t.psn-web.net/Products/IP_camera/WV-SFV631L_611L/Manual/PGQP1582WAC1_WV-SPN631_OI_en.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2126" RevisionGUID="a4c441e2-2373-4652-9a10-00813c4bf5f7" CreationDate="2016-02-26T09:26:57.143" UserId="1366" Text="Actually I found other solution which was much cheaper:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I resigned from using LED lighted fan because my case is lighted enough with LED stripes mounted inside it ([thread][1] about light in case).&#xD;&#xA; - I found used (half year on 6V) fans from [NZXT Switch 810][2] which I bought for $5 each.&#xD;&#xA; - I connected it to motherboard via [NZXT Grid+ V2][3] and set them to work only when GPU/CPU will reach temperature above 50 °C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm really happy with this solution when computer is idle it's really quiet and when I start to stress my PC fans are working on RPM dependent to temperatures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone is intrested in this setup I can post some photos on the weekend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1672/choosing-source-of-light-in-case-led-stripes-or-cold-cathodes&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/switch-810-white#product-reviews&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.nzxt.com/products/grid-v2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2127" RevisionGUID="018170d2-2ca6-45d4-be05-b6415c31f3b9" CreationDate="2016-02-26T09:55:00.577" UserId="1890" Text="I have an iMac 27 (core i5, 8gb ram, AMD Radeon R9 M290X 2gb) and this is not enough for some new games. So are there external graphics card box, which capable of operate on the internal monitor iMac with windows OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about Sonnet, Akitio and Bizon adapters, but it works only on external monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2127" RevisionGUID="018170d2-2ca6-45d4-be05-b6415c31f3b9" CreationDate="2016-02-26T09:55:00.577" UserId="1890" Text="External GPU card for iMac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2127" RevisionGUID="018170d2-2ca6-45d4-be05-b6415c31f3b9" CreationDate="2016-02-26T09:55:00.577" UserId="1890" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2127" RevisionGUID="f774567f-15a6-4944-889f-d40c4e706ccb" CreationDate="2016-02-26T11:33:10.633" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="I have an iMac 27 (core i5, 8gb ram, AMD Radeon R9 M290X 2gb) and this is not enough for some new games. So are there external graphics card box, which capable of operate on the internal monitor iMac with windows OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about Sonnet, Akitio and Bizon adapters, but it works only on external monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2129" RevisionGUID="a62e19e1-46cf-43f9-aa16-01ca7e248b46" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:22:43.983" UserId="1892" Text="We have two multitouch monitors connected to the same windows PC.  When both monitors are touched at the same time, only one monitor receives the touch input.  We need some kind of box that can receive both touch inputs from the monitors and pass it along to windows as one.  If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be very appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2129" RevisionGUID="a62e19e1-46cf-43f9-aa16-01ca7e248b46" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:22:43.983" UserId="1892" Text="Hardware that receives 2 touch monitors input at once and gives it to windows as one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2129" RevisionGUID="a62e19e1-46cf-43f9-aa16-01ca7e248b46" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:22:43.983" UserId="1892" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2129" RevisionGUID="03517875-eeb1-4cd7-8a6f-d18aa55eedff" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:52:24.107" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="We have two multitouch monitors connected to the same windows PC.  When both monitors are touched at the same time, only one monitor receives the touch input.  We need some kind of box that can receive both touch inputs from the monitors and pass it along to windows as one.  If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be very appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1545" RevisionGUID="c03d06bd-6c62-478d-b027-e967b97194a2" CreationDate="2016-02-26T15:54:28.317" UserId="1249" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="HDMI extender&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind when you have 2 small boxes to be connected with pair of Ethernet-style cables. I'm using Unitek Y-5115 (I've paid about $30-$40), but this [one looks promising][1].&#xD;&#xA;I think this simple devices work by having an analog amplifier pump the signal into cheap cable and then normalize it at the other end - it doesn't really understand the protocol so it works with pretty much anything that can be crammed into HDMI cable. I've tested mine with pair of 25m patchcords and it worked flawlessly up to 1080p and also with DVI. In your case you can connect it via DVI-splitter to the DVI monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I've tried mine at 4k, but it only managed to work on 20cm patch cords. Anything longer and there was no signal. But still - I was amazed that the extender itself *did* worked at 4k even though it's specced up to FullHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest advantage of this system is that all the expensive parts (the converters themselves) are concentrated in 2 small locations and can be put out of harm's way. The long cable is cheap and can be easily trimmed or replaced should a need arise. Also the transmission is fully digital (although I suspect analog amplification) so you get perfect quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend against long VGA, DVI or HDMI cable - simply because they are quite expensive and when they get damaged you have to replace entire length of it. The picture quality degradation of VGA cable is less of an issue, as I've witnessed surprisingly good quality out of about 15-20m cables used at conference rooms - although judging by the thickness they were probably quite expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As with all experiments, I advise you make the purchases as a consumer (that is, not as company or organization) so you can return it if you're not satisfied with results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1018295-REG/tera_grand_hd_ve430_hdmi_extender.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2132" RevisionGUID="3710b112-49bd-47cd-a71f-5d7f002dbb6b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:11:31.977" UserId="1410" Text="I listen to a lot of talk radio when I drive. It is very frustrating when one talker seesm to whisper and one to almost shout The radio stations seem to do nothing about this. In fact my favourite show has a presenter who seems to whisper, so that when talk switches from him to someone else, I have to keep jiggling the volume control, which is both annoying and potentially dangerous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any sugegstions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2132" RevisionGUID="3710b112-49bd-47cd-a71f-5d7f002dbb6b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:11:31.977" UserId="1410" Text="Car radio which equalizes voice volume on talk radio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2132" RevisionGUID="3710b112-49bd-47cd-a71f-5d7f002dbb6b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:11:31.977" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2132" RevisionGUID="9dacc9d1-be9b-4e41-adaa-426a1c8bd98b" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:32:41.527" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="I listen to a lot of talk radio when I drive. It is very frustrating when one talker seems to whisper and one to almost shout The radio stations seem to do nothing about this. In fact my favourite show has a presenter who seems to whisper, so that when talk switches from him to someone else, I have to keep jiggling the volume control, which is both annoying and potentially dangerous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2132" RevisionGUID="5e7d71e6-23a3-4d0a-a0cc-c2da3f502bdb" CreationDate="2016-02-27T14:33:37.137" UserId="1410" Comment="added 383 characters in body" Text="I listen to a lot of talk radio when I drive. It is very frustrating when one talker seems to whisper and one to almost shout The radio stations seem to do nothing about this. In fact my favourite show has a presenter who seems to whisper, so that when talk switches from him to someone else, I have to keep jiggling the volume control, which is both annoying and potentially dangerous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Hoping to avoid any more downvotes. I came here to ask what hardware to buy, not how to install it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If someone can recommend a car radio that does what I ask, then I can contact the manufacturer &amp; ask if it is compatible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There surely can't be that much difference between them, can there? If it is so important, then it should fit a 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2133" RevisionGUID="dedf5617-0cdd-4930-baa9-432282cf4a12" CreationDate="2016-02-27T15:23:06.643" UserId="1641" Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many boards that may be suitable for your needs. You can check in http://www.bigboardlist.com for more options than Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all of them come with at least one USB and a Ethernet Port, the performance and price varies, but I think the all meet your especifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Based on the [answer][1] of @Gilles)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/174/1641" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="f23ce415-6f2f-4de9-a29e-2794e5b47fa0" CreationDate="2016-02-27T19:52:07.397" UserId="1808" Comment="added 213 characters in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;).  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So it’s very unlikely such device exists.**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="a7d92016-187b-4a8a-a08d-4b88ea5446f2" CreationDate="2016-02-27T19:55:28.053" UserId="1808" Comment="added 51 characters in body" Text="#Reason&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xD;&#xA;#Rules&#xD;&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xD;&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xD;&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xD;&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xD;&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France. *(many intel cpu models are not sold here)*&#xD;&#xA;* Should not consume more than 250W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update&#xD;&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the available cpu sockets are [bga only](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array) *(no lga based models availaible yet)*. Except if I'm wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it means while I'm looking for a particular gpu model, the cpu+gpu+motherboard is sold as a single device which can't be ordered into separate parts *(the same way you don't buy a northbridge chipset without a motherboard)*.  &#xD;&#xA;This why I specify the requirements of both the cpu and the motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="b75b864b-6c93-41e9-87f7-1fcd7e6070a3" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:56:49.170" UserId="1808" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So it’s very unlikely such device exists.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2133" RevisionGUID="da6691b5-a8d4-4711-912b-e97f3eef3ff1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:37:02.977" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7911" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="58b08ae4-1619-4954-bcf0-2b1ad594ad4d" CreationDate="2016-02-28T01:18:42.833" UserId="1808" Comment="added 133 characters in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which held by an individual *(not a company)*&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So it’s very unlikely such device exists.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="884652c8-4719-47bc-9056-c6d508540bae" CreationDate="2016-02-28T01:39:56.883" UserId="1808" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which is held by an individual *(not a company)*.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So it’s very unlikely such device exists.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="6fbbd953-ae60-4a6e-bc68-e65b78e63c33" CreationDate="2016-02-28T03:34:38.297" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7917" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2051" RevisionGUID="e7aaf898-3199-47f7-a0b1-d8df69240a9a" CreationDate="2016-02-28T04:20:02.370" UserId="595" Comment="17" />
  <row Id="7924" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2125" RevisionGUID="64b52970-3d51-44bc-898b-4546668fd26a" CreationDate="2016-02-28T08:38:16.737" UserId="203" Comment="Added option" Text="**Update:** I found the socketed i5 5675C with Iris Pro 6200 (48 EU GT3e 128 MB L4) at [LDLC.com][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** [Intel Core i5 5675C with Iris Pro 6200 iGP (€289.95 @ LDLC.com)][2] [(Processor Specs @ Intel ARK)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A multiplier unlocked quad core Intel CPU, it has 48 Gen 8 EUs, comparable to the Iris 540 and 550, and double the amount of L4 eDRAM. 65W TDP. Compatible with DDR3 RAM only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** [Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3 (€89.95@ LDLC.com)][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Z97 Express chipset, supports mulitplier overclocking, 2 x PCIe x16 slots, 2 x PCI. 6 X SATA 6 Gb/s with support for RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5, and RAID 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second option @ [Sabmegastore][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** [Intel Core i5 6500 Quad core 3.2 GHz CPU][6] 248.90 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is a quad core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** [GIGABYTE Z170-HD3P][7] 142.90 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has 2 x PCIe x16 sots. One only uses x4 lanes though. Also has 2 x PCI and support for RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5, and RAID 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** GIGABYTE GEFORCE GT 740&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Much faster than Iris. 64W TDP, plus the 65 W from the CPU makes 129 W. 50% headroom gives 194W total consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assembly + 2 year warrenty is 69.00 €, otherwise buy the parts separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ldlc.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00188815.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88095/Intel-Core-i5-5675C-Processor-4M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ldlc.com/fiche/PB00173785.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.sabmegastore.com/commande.php?cat=mont&amp;sm=4&amp;p=1&amp;mu=&amp;comp=ORB000&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88184/Intel-Core-i5-6500-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5495" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2137" RevisionGUID="9a60f384-e0ee-4cde-bcf1-ef1aa7ce87d2" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:39:10.987" UserId="1903" Text="I am looking for a single board rackmount server/pc that can run a lightweight Linux or BSD operating system like pfSense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. (preferably under $400 AUD, inc. tax and postage)&#xD;&#xA; - Low power consumption.&#xD;&#xA; - Fanless (Passively Cooled) or other silent solution.&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple Gigabit NIC's. (2 or more)&#xD;&#xA; - Rackmount or desktop. (switchable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aim is to have one of these machines running a pfsense firewall and another running a lightweight VoIP server (asterisk) or similar in my home. The hardware requirements are higher than something like a Raspberry Pi or another ARM based board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2137" RevisionGUID="9a60f384-e0ee-4cde-bcf1-ef1aa7ce87d2" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:39:10.987" UserId="1903" Text="Single Board Rackmount Linux/BSD Home Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2137" RevisionGUID="9a60f384-e0ee-4cde-bcf1-ef1aa7ce87d2" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:39:10.987" UserId="1903" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2137" RevisionGUID="3fb93fef-de99-45e6-8a73-ba5ff0db60a6" CreationDate="2016-02-28T13:42:08.823" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a single board rackmount server/pc that can run a lightweight Linux or BSD operating system like pfSense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap. (preferably under $400 AUD, inc. tax and postage)&#xD;&#xA; - Low power consumption.&#xD;&#xA; - Fanless (Passively Cooled) or other silent solution.&#xD;&#xA; - Multiple Gigabit NIC's. (2 or more)&#xD;&#xA; - Rackmount or desktop. (switchable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aim is to have one of these machines running a pfsense firewall and another running a lightweight VoIP server (asterisk) or similar in my home. The hardware requirements are higher than something like a Raspberry Pi or another ARM based board." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="be10a626-f7a2-44d8-86f4-0be8ca5d9626" CreationDate="2016-02-28T13:56:06.467" UserId="1808" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which is held by an individual *(not a company)*.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[So it’s very unlikely such device exists](http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/436/1808).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Concerning the too narrow scope please [discuss it on meta](http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/438/1808) instead of trying to close this question with the opposite close reason**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="c6d7dc86-1b31-4b59-9a4b-f42ac89b7e46" CreationDate="2016-02-28T15:02:22.563" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="be15e8bc-90df-4e8c-be9e-7987c8a74128" CreationDate="2016-02-28T15:16:31.167" UserId="57" Comment="Removed meta discussion from main question" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which is held by an individual *(not a company)*.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[So it’s very unlikely such device exists](http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/436/1808).**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2138" RevisionGUID="cf5606f2-ea2d-4234-800d-4b8d3aa77264" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:15:38.027" UserId="1906" Text="I am a mechanical engineering student in my second year and I am about due for a new laptop.... I think. &#xA;&#xA;I would like to run Matlab, Creo, and solidworks as needed. I do not play video games and I rarely watch movies so neither of those are important to me.  I also run programming software for my HAM raido equipment but that software is not very demanding of computing abilities. &#xA;&#xA;I am currently running a HP ProBook 6360b, intel i3-2350M @ 2.3GHz, 4.00GB RAM, 32 bit OS, Intel HD graphics  3000. &#xA;&#xA;This laptop is old but it still works. It was free and if some minor upgrades would keep me going for a few more years for a considerable cost savings I would rather do this. I will need a new dvd drive (mechanical issue, does not read) if I am convinced to run this a few more years. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2138" RevisionGUID="cf5606f2-ea2d-4234-800d-4b8d3aa77264" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:15:38.027" UserId="1906" Text="New laptop for ME student" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2138" RevisionGUID="cf5606f2-ea2d-4234-800d-4b8d3aa77264" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:15:38.027" UserId="1906" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2009" RevisionGUID="a097e512-64ef-446b-b287-008718255022" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:34:17.800" UserId="164" Comment="spelling and grammar and formatting" Text="The Intel CPU is generally better, especially in single thread applications, and with the Skylake platform you can upgrade to i7 6700k down the road when it gets cheaper. However, it is most certainly not worth the extra money if you have to change the motherboard and RAM. Keep in mind that you cant really upgrade that much on that AMD socket." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2009" RevisionGUID="a097e512-64ef-446b-b287-008718255022" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:34:17.800" Comment="Proposed by 164 approved by 54, 1 edit id of 402" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2138" RevisionGUID="29db3272-232c-407a-82aa-6ef483bcefc9" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:38:00.113" UserId="1" Comment="appended answer 2139 as supplemental" Text="I am a mechanical engineering student in my second year and I am about due for a new laptop.... I think. &#xA;&#xA;I would like to run Matlab, Creo, and solidworks as needed. I do not play video games and I rarely watch movies so neither of those are important to me.  I also run programming software for my HAM raido equipment but that software is not very demanding of computing abilities. &#xA;&#xA;I am currently running a HP ProBook 6360b, intel i3-2350M @ 2.3GHz, 4.00GB RAM, 32 bit OS, Intel HD graphics  3000. &#xA;&#xA;This laptop is old but it still works. It was free and if some minor upgrades would keep me going for a few more years for a considerable cost savings I would rather do this. I will need a new dvd drive (mechanical issue, does not read) if I am convinced to run this a few more years. &#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;If I buy new it is going on a credit card. I am not afraid of spending more money for something that will last me several years. With that I would say $2k or less. &#xA;&#xA;i am not a fan of small computers with small keyboards but at the same time I am not looking for a 15lbs jumbo laptop. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2133" RevisionGUID="32419d19-962f-4865-aef6-40a884008430" CreationDate="2016-02-29T13:16:33.387" UserId="1641" Comment="Improved answer to fit in the HRSE politics." Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At work we use the Raspberry Pi 2 (model B), this device meet all your especifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many boards that may be suitable for your needs. You can check in http://www.bigboardlist.com for more options than Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all of them come with at least one USB and a Ethernet Port, the performance and price varies, but I think the all meet your especifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we're seeking to buy the ODroid C1+, because for the same amount of money we could have a better processor (Maybe not the best Architecture, but best frecuency), better **RAM**, an OTG USB port, build-in heat sink and better GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you plan to make a small server (like we do) you could use the Raspi2 or the Odroid C1, both of them at very low price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Based on the [answer][1] of @Gilles)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/174/1641" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2133" RevisionGUID="2fc5ba32-dd3c-4f33-b449-9561966e143f" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:25:52.333" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7977" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="2138" RevisionGUID="575b120f-63b5-4fba-8376-22e79f76afaa" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:36:10.600" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="7988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2150" RevisionGUID="148080f4-5b21-49bd-b8d5-827be8486f7c" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:48:35.017" UserId="1919" Text="The short version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Can anyone recommend a webcam that I can carry around the house - totally unwired?** I guess it should be wifi, battery-charged, and if there are both mic and speakers it would be great. If it has fisheye lens it would be totally perfect. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, this might sound really silly. But a family member is totally scared of being alone, I can't even walk into the other room when I'm there, then she will start calling. So I was thinking of mounting my GoPro on a helmet and let her see me on a monitor in her room. However there is a delay with the GoPro camera (Silver 3+), which ruins the whole idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is if there is a *real* wireless camera that I somehow can mount to a helmet, and stream via wifi to a computer and on to the monitor/TV via hdmi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen **Logitech Broadcaster Wi-Fi Webcam**, but it's a few years old, there gotta be newer and cheaper cameras? :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ANY ideas will help me, thanks! &lt;3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2150" RevisionGUID="148080f4-5b21-49bd-b8d5-827be8486f7c" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:48:35.017" UserId="1919" Text="Any REAL wireless webcams, that can be carried around and stream live in house?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2150" RevisionGUID="148080f4-5b21-49bd-b8d5-827be8486f7c" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:48:35.017" UserId="1919" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1846" RevisionGUID="76d8a03d-6d04-448f-90e2-752be4d8675d" CreationDate="2016-03-01T02:42:36.627" UserId="1588" Comment="16" />
  <row Id="7995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2152" RevisionGUID="450d26be-45d2-4954-8d78-6845f54c3a15" CreationDate="2016-03-01T08:17:40.770" UserId="1923" Text="I have Asus [RT-AC1200G+][1] router downstairs with my home media server connected with cable (Video streaming, NAS, VM streaming). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On ground floor WiFi reception is very good (144MBit on 2,4 and over 350MBit on 5GHz).&#xD;&#xA;On second floor I have poor signal (unstable 60-80MBit on 2.4, very unstable 15MBit on 5GHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to have ground-floor quality signal on second floor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Router repositioning isn't an option - this is where internet cable is.&#xD;&#xA;Normally I would lay additional ethernet cable to upstairs and buy a good access point - but property owner strictly forbids doing it on my own and he demands ~250$ for it (+cable&amp;AP price of course).&#xD;&#xA;House is pretty old, so PLC adaptor probably isn't a solution (however I haven't tested it yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: is there a better solution than paying an owner to lay an ethernet cable for me and buy AP?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/RT-AC1200G-Plus/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2152" RevisionGUID="450d26be-45d2-4954-8d78-6845f54c3a15" CreationDate="2016-03-01T08:17:40.770" UserId="1923" Text="Gigabit WiFi on different floor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2152" RevisionGUID="450d26be-45d2-4954-8d78-6845f54c3a15" CreationDate="2016-03-01T08:17:40.770" UserId="1923" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2153" RevisionGUID="247f4ae8-d854-4120-9258-4d9ad97a8796" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:15:57.857" UserId="1924" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop for both gaming and coding (I already have a bigger, powerful PC for most of the games though, but I also want to play on the laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nice-looking&#xD;&#xA;- quick to boot (A SSD for the OS seems mandatory, or a hybrid drive)&#xD;&#xA;- A nice autonomy&#xD;&#xA;- With an OS (W10)&#xD;&#xA;- Comfortable for long sessions of coding&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable in the long term&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind about not having an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there brands I should avoid ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2153" RevisionGUID="247f4ae8-d854-4120-9258-4d9ad97a8796" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:15:57.857" UserId="1924" Text="New laptop for gaming/work, around 1.000 €" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2153" RevisionGUID="247f4ae8-d854-4120-9258-4d9ad97a8796" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:15:57.857" UserId="1924" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="2b3b5e84-786d-455b-8020-4febb3f5bf5c" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:44:24.797" UserId="1926" Text="I have an Asus EEE 901, one of those small netbooks that were the rage a few years ago. It's good as a travelling machine, but I'd really like to have more storage space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model is the Windows version with two SSDs, a 4Gb one that is a pain to get to and a 12Gb one that is easier to reach. I am thinking of replacing the 12Gb one and use the 4Gb one only to boot. I'm not sure about what kind of SSD I should be looking for - a search online brings up pages with lots of links to the old eeeusers.com forum that is now closed down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what type of connection, speed, interface, size etc. should I be looking for if I wanted to be sure about compatibility?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="2b3b5e84-786d-455b-8020-4febb3f5bf5c" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:44:24.797" UserId="1926" Text="New SSD for old Asus EEE 901 netbook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="2b3b5e84-786d-455b-8020-4febb3f5bf5c" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:44:24.797" UserId="1926" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2155" RevisionGUID="081661e6-c9d9-4980-95f1-ef876d55ba95" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:57:20.000" UserId="1927" Text="I am project managing the development of a web app that needs to interface with a wireless bar code scanner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I do not want to have to have a local host computer on site for the scanners to connect to / use as a gateway. I don't know if they exist but I was hoping to find a scanner that would connect to the internet via wifi and send the number it scanned to a specific API/WebService or that my webapp could poll the device for scanned codes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**To put it more concisely can you recommend a wireless barcode scanner that can directly interface with a web based application?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Connects to wifi directly with no gateway device needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interfaces with a webapp via a exposed web service or API.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expense is not an issue, device must be supported as it will form part of a critical government system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry if I have been vague, happy to answer any questions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2155" RevisionGUID="081661e6-c9d9-4980-95f1-ef876d55ba95" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:57:20.000" UserId="1927" Text="Barcode Scanner that communicates via RESTful API" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2155" RevisionGUID="081661e6-c9d9-4980-95f1-ef876d55ba95" CreationDate="2016-03-01T11:57:20.000" UserId="1927" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2045" RevisionGUID="d76aa521-5a5a-41dc-80dd-b31106949368" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:06:14.543" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8009" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="dc69d377-868a-4fcb-a468-aaf971f35f33" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:08:50.777" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2153" RevisionGUID="f2befaef-e161-44a4-ad87-1861b3aa3b5e" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:11:20.520" UserId="8" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop for both gaming and coding (I already have a bigger, powerful PC for most of the games though, but I also want to play on the laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nice-looking&#xD;&#xA;- quick to boot (A SSD for the OS seems mandatory, or a hybrid drive)&#xD;&#xA;- A good battery life (3+ hours)&#xD;&#xA;- With an OS (W10)&#xD;&#xA;- Comfortable for long sessions of coding&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable in the long term&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind about not having an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there brands I should avoid ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="ed1fffe5-731d-433c-b939-2915b92354f0" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:17:43.797" UserId="1926" Comment="explicitly specified requirements" Text="I have an Asus EEE 901, one of those small netbooks that were the rage a few years ago. It's good as a travelling machine, but I'd really like to have more storage space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model is the Windows version with two SSDs, a 4Gb one that is a pain to get to and a 12Gb one that is easier to reach. I am thinking of replacing the 12Gb one and use the 4Gb one only to boot. I'm not sure about what kind of SSD I should be looking for - a search online brings up pages with lots of links to the old eeeusers.com forum that is now closed down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, let's put down some requirements: larger than 30Gb, cheaper than £40 including the cost of possible adapters, and from a reasonably well known brand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2156" RevisionGUID="4bf72ce7-188e-43f3-85b5-cdab19b9423c" CreationDate="2016-03-01T15:15:22.900" UserId="1924" Text="I finally bought an [Asus ROG G551JW-DM379T](http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0166VYZI4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) following the advices of my SysAdmin (Quoting : &quot;Asus is GOOD&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is not too flashy&#xD;&#xA;- Features an hybrid HDD (1Tb + 24Gb)&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- Good processor (Core i7) and graphics card (GeForce GTX960M)&#xD;&#xA;- Was quite &quot;cheap&quot; (980€, which allowed me to take some accessories with it)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2159" RevisionGUID="464f9fea-7b14-4411-878e-282851e840cb" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:48:12.933" UserId="1894" Text="I sometimes need to tweak (python) software on a PC that doesn't have a parallel port yet the live system does and the software uses it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need some way to convince my system that it has a parallel port - ideally a usb to parallel port converter that would function at some level - but if not then just something that fakes it - so long as I can run the software without having to comment all the code that tries to access the parallel port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the parallel port to usb convertors I've seen appear to only be for printers and don't fake a port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realise that even if it did work that the timing would not be precise as per a dedicated parallel port - I don't care about this though as its not being used to test that aspect of the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My gut feel is that it's never going to be possible but there some clever souls out there so I thought it was worth asking! :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2159" RevisionGUID="464f9fea-7b14-4411-878e-282851e840cb" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:48:12.933" UserId="1894" Text="usb to parallel port not for printers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2159" RevisionGUID="464f9fea-7b14-4411-878e-282851e840cb" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:48:12.933" UserId="1894" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2153" RevisionGUID="327f2b68-d031-48c0-9e50-633e396d464b" CreationDate="2016-03-01T18:42:39.820" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="New laptop for gaming/work, around 1000 €" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2159" RevisionGUID="52bd31bf-d0a5-46f9-a85f-8412e4560b56" CreationDate="2016-03-01T20:13:40.877" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 127 characters in body" Text="I sometimes need to tweak (python) software on a PC that doesn't have a parallel port yet the live system does and the software uses it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need some way to convince my system that it has a parallel port - ideally a USB to parallel port converter that would function at some level - but if not then just something that fakes it - so long as I can run the software without having to comment all the code that tries to access the parallel port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the parallel port to USB converters I've seen appear to only be for printers and don't fake a port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize that even if it did work that the timing would not be precise as per a dedicated parallel port - I don't care about this though as its not being used to test that aspect of the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2159" RevisionGUID="7fa71f0a-3267-4383-85bb-22220928a87b" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:05:10.940" UserId="1" Comment="edited title" Text="USB to parallel port converter for more than printers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="9f059c36-4dd9-403d-b6d9-f2272d9af0fa" CreationDate="2016-03-02T04:36:09.327" UserId="1932" Text="I have a Dell Optiplex 3010.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my CPU ,The motherboard is the Dell Inc. 042P49 (CPU 1) and currently has a Intel Core i3 2120 Socket 1155 LGA installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I need the advice to choose the proper CPU compatible with my device to upgrade and also i want to know what is the maximum Generation that working well with my device etc 3th 4th 5th**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="9f059c36-4dd9-403d-b6d9-f2272d9af0fa" CreationDate="2016-03-02T04:36:09.327" UserId="1932" Text="Dell Optiplex 3010 - Upgrading CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="9f059c36-4dd9-403d-b6d9-f2272d9af0fa" CreationDate="2016-03-02T04:36:09.327" UserId="1932" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2162" RevisionGUID="17198733-b88d-48e4-88a3-bc121416eaae" CreationDate="2016-03-02T07:46:10.093" UserId="1366" Text=" - Your motherboard is on [H61 Express Chipset][1]. &#xD;&#xA; - [List][2] of compatible CPUs with your motherboard.&#xD;&#xA; - Highest compatible generation working with your motherboard is **Ivy Bridge** (3rd generation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/52806&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/52806#@compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="973" RevisionGUID="2da8fc76-520e-45a0-b6ca-27723a7520ba" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:03:46.100" UserId="653" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I've been using a pair of [Sennheiser HD215 headphones][1] for a good few years now, and they're great! They are in your price range (*$69, as of 02/03/2016*) and meet all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;They are over-ear headphones and are padded. They provide an extremely good fit and are adjustable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-504293-HD215-Headphone/dp/B003LPTB4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446325175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+Hd+215&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tIBbdm.gif&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Cable**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Admittedly the cable supplied is great, but it is *very long* (3 metres). If you want to, you can replace the cable (the cable itself is detachable) with a standard 3.5&quot; (1/8) audio cable. It's like an old-style landline phone cable, and I've found that it can often get tangled if you aren't careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thick, and can be quite stiff to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Build Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overall build quality of the headphones is excellent, but however is quite flimsy around the headband to the point that if you wanted to snap them in half, it would be an easy task to complete. I've not had other headphones of this quality before so I don't know how this compares to similar headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from this, other parts of the headphones are very sturdy. It's unlikely that I'll be having to buy a new pair for a long while yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD215s produce *very* high-quality sound, and the reviews for them prove that (see the link at the top of my answer). I've found them very good for classical music, but also dance &amp; electronic genres. The bass output is quite soft, but I find that it outputs *just* the right amount of bass for the sound output (so, a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Volume &amp; Distortion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No distortion whatsoever at any volume level, and these headphones are *very loud*. Obviously, the volume does not impact on sound quality. The cable does not have any type of remote/volume control on it, although you *might* be able to get hold of a 3.5&quot; passthrough cable that does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Replacement Parts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The foam padding &amp; the cable are the only replaceable parts of the headphones. I've never had to replace the foam padding on mine, so the foam padding has a fairly long life, the same can be said for the cable. That's 5 1/2 years without having to replace anything on the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Accessories**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 215s come with a large synthetic leather pouch (*which I lost a while ago so unfortunately I'm unable to give my view on it*). It can fit the headphones &amp; cables while disconnected from each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No other accessories are included." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="973" RevisionGUID="fea5c2a9-44ee-4e40-8271-790f89d7298b" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:09:29.617" UserId="653" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I've been using a pair of [Sennheiser HD215 headphones][1] for a good few years now, and they're great! They are in your price range (*$69, as of 02/03/2016*) and meet all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;They are over-ear headphones and are padded. They provide an extremely good fit and are adjustable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-504293-HD215-Headphone/dp/B003LPTB4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1446325175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+Hd+215&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tIBbdm.gif&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Cable**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Admittedly the cable supplied is great, but it is *very long* (3 metres). If you want to, you can replace the cable (the cable itself is detachable) with a standard 3.5&quot; (1/8) audio cable. It's like an old-style landline phone cable, and I've found that it can often get tangled if you aren't careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thick, and can be quite stiff to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Build Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overall build quality of the headphones is excellent, but however is quite flimsy around the headband to the point that if you wanted to snap them in half, it would be an easy task to complete. I've not had other headphones of this quality before so I don't know how this compares to similar headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from this, other parts of the headphones are very sturdy. It's unlikely that I'll be having to buy a new pair for a long while yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound Quality**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD215s produce *very* high-quality sound, and the reviews for them prove that (see the link at the top of my answer). I've found them very good for classical music, but also dance &amp; electronic genres. The bass output is quite soft, but I find that it outputs *just* the right amount of bass for the sound output (so, a good thing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Volume &amp; Distortion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No distortion whatsoever at any volume level, and these headphones are *very loud*. Obviously, the volume does not impact on sound quality. The cable does not have any type of remote/volume control on it, although you *might* be able to get hold of a 3.5&quot; passthrough cable that does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Replacement Parts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The foam padding &amp; the cable are the only replaceable parts of the headphones. I've never had to replace the foam padding on mine, so the foam padding has a fairly long life, the same can be said for the cable. That's almost nine years without having to replace anything on the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Accessories**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 215s come with a large synthetic leather pouch (*which I lost a while ago so unfortunately I'm unable to give my view on it*). It can fit the headphones &amp; cables while disconnected from each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No other accessories are included." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2162" RevisionGUID="25609910-bc74-459c-acf5-ec3c3d8b106a" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:14:26.537" UserId="1366" Comment="added 288 characters in body" Text=" - Your motherboard is on [H61 Express Chipset][1]. &#xD;&#xA; - [List][2] of compatible CPUs with your motherboard.&#xD;&#xA; - Highest compatible generation working with your motherboard is **Ivy Bridge** (3rd generation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would choose between [i7 3770][3] or [i5 3570][4] it depends if you need more threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/52806&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/52806#@compatibility&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/65719/Intel-Core-i7-3770-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/65702/Intel-Core-i5-3570-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2164" RevisionGUID="ba23ad7b-b432-4d4c-b82e-3b75be07543a" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:18:37.413" UserId="1874" Text="All the LED lamps that are available locally have noticeable flicker, and I have the same problem with the lamps that I've ordered online. **Is there any device that could phase-shift 220 V 50 Hz AC home electricity so that I could run two LED bulbs out of phase from each other?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read that [stadium lighting uses three 120-degree phases](http://www.archlighting.com/technology/leds-fighting-flicker_o) to handle flicker. I would thus prefer such a system for my LED lamps, but if a device with two 180-degrees phasing exists I would be happy with that as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2164" RevisionGUID="ba23ad7b-b432-4d4c-b82e-3b75be07543a" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:18:37.413" UserId="1874" Text="AC Phase Shifter for LED lamps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2164" RevisionGUID="ba23ad7b-b432-4d4c-b82e-3b75be07543a" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:18:37.413" UserId="1874" Text="&lt;led&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="129042ba-87b3-4d9b-af94-d6295635a190" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:25:18.787" UserId="1366" Comment="Deleted &quot;Thanks&quot; at the end." Text="I have a Dell Optiplex 3010.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my CPU ,The motherboard is the Dell Inc. 042P49 (CPU 1) and currently has a Intel Core i3 2120 Socket 1155 LGA installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I need the advice to choose the proper CPU compatible with my device to upgrade and also i want to know what is the maximum Generation that working well with my device etc 3th 4th 5th**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="129042ba-87b3-4d9b-af94-d6295635a190" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:25:18.787" Comment="Proposed by 1366 approved by 1932 edit id of 403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="7ab3e671-6fe9-4653-b1ae-2dcec9d3428a" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:26:38.023" UserId="1932" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell Optiplex 3010.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my CPU ,The motherboard is the Dell Inc. 042P49 (CPU 1) and currently has a Intel Core i3 2120 Socket 1155 LGA installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I need the advice to choose the proper CPU compatible with my device to upgrade and also i want to know what is the maximum Generation that working well with my device etc 3th 4th 5th**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![CPU-Z Snapshot][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6budD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="db22015b-eb61-40d3-8423-0564d8ba358e" CreationDate="2016-03-02T08:34:33.223" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8072" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2161" RevisionGUID="698cbea7-0ff0-4df2-a31d-be72c836bce9" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:49:54.997" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2169" RevisionGUID="4a9a245d-4513-446b-8a72-8c1db21d727d" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:11:33.853" UserId="1944" Text="I am experimenting on a web app that recreates the idea in [this xkcd comic](https://xkcd.com/941). I am doing it using a node.js server hosted on my desktop, connected (via websocket) to two clients running on a web browser. The two clients continually sending camera capture to the server, that combines them and produce a cyan-red 3D anaglyph image.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want two phones meeting these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap. Really cheap. Cheapest possible.&#xD;&#xA;- Must run at least Android 4 or Firefox OS&#xD;&#xA;- Must have Wi-Fi (may or may not have 2G/3G/4G)&#xD;&#xA;- Should have at least a HD720 (1280 x 720) camera, no need for a rear cam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess that's a pretty large frame, the main requirement is still **cheapest possible**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2169" RevisionGUID="4a9a245d-4513-446b-8a72-8c1db21d727d" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:11:33.853" UserId="1944" Text="Cheap smartphone for testing a camera-based webapp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2169" RevisionGUID="4a9a245d-4513-446b-8a72-8c1db21d727d" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:11:33.853" UserId="1944" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2154" RevisionGUID="77d9e1aa-bcb6-43cc-b5fc-2e16600ef3e8" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:51:40.930" UserId="1926" Comment="added 155 characters in body" Text="I have an Asus EEE 901, one of those small netbooks that were the rage a few years ago. It's good as a travelling machine, but I'd really like to have more storage space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model is the Windows version with two SSDs, a 4Gb one that is a pain to get to and a 12Gb one that is easier to reach. I am thinking of replacing the 12Gb one and use the 4Gb one only to boot. I'm not sure about what kind of SSD I should be looking for - a search online brings up pages with lots of links to the old eeeusers.com forum that is now closed down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, let's put down some requirements: larger than 30Gb, cheaper than £40 including the cost of possible adapters, and from a reasonably well known brand. What I'm not sure about is the interface/protocol/connector I should be looking for, as it looks like there was some evolution since the old 901 came out." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2170" RevisionGUID="f55351ff-5ec6-496f-97ff-b7de13212a14" CreationDate="2016-03-03T15:09:53.170" UserId="1873" Text="These days there is a lot of talk about Butetooth Low Energy in home automation so you might opt for the Pi 3 which is still 35$ but comes with a BLE transceiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also the PINE64 is a very cheap and poewrful alternative, with 1 GB RAM at 19$: https://www.pine64.com/product#pricing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2172" RevisionGUID="d62c51c3-119f-41c1-8fc4-4a7a66f57f40" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:06:01.377" UserId="711" Text="There are a lot of SBCs (Single Board Computers) similar or competitive to the Raspberry Pi that will fulfill your requests.  They are pretty broad, and the market is pretty hot right now, so you have lots of options.  Like most, I've played around mostly with Raspberry Pis of various sort.  Aside from the B, B+, and 2, you have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I have an [ODROID C1+][1], and it has greater specs than the Raspberry Pi 2, with which it competes.  I loaded Android to it, but it also has Ubuntu available.&#xD;&#xA;2. I have a Beaglebone (I don't think it's the [black version][2] though), but I have not done anything with it.  It's somewhat competitive in features with Raspberry Pis, I think the original B and the B+.  This device is usually meant to run headless, though they do have HDMI ports.&#xD;&#xA;3. I have a [Raspberry Pi Zero][5], which is neat.  I don't think it has any lower power conspumption, and it's required adapters may negate the savings of the board itself, but it is physically small, which may be a boon for your project.&#xD;&#xA;4. I have looked at the [Banana Pi][3] whilest browsing SBCs.&#xD;&#xA;5. Continuing with the fruit pies, is the [Orange Pi][4], another full featured cheap SBC, though this one makes a point of being extremely low cost.&#xD;&#xA;6. The [pcDuino][6] combines an arduino and PC components and has various flavors including USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;7. [The CHIP computer][7] is a $9 that hasn't started fully shipping  yet, but it's another low cost, low power SBC sure to catch your eye.  They should start taking regular orders in the fall if I recall correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SBCs all have slightly different features, which is good and bad.  I have come across a blog that keeps up with all sorts of little devices called [Liliputing][8].  You could scroll through it and see if there are any other devices which might suit your tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://beagleboard.org/black&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.banana-pi.com/eacp_view.asp?id=35&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.orangepi.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.linksprite.com/linksprite-pcduino/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1598272670/chip-the-worlds-first-9-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://liliputing.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2173" RevisionGUID="05d5ce06-0a7f-475b-a90e-4393c7533b05" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:17:41.950" UserId="711" Text="I have a Bluetooth [Bluetake BT500 mouse][1] and one of the buttons is going (the left one of course), the case has some wear, and I'd like a comparable replacement.  It seems that the mouse is no longer in production, and I can't find a comparable replacement.  This mouse was a good match for a [UMPC][2], so we're talking technology from almost 10 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current mouse still mostly works, but if I can't repair the left mouse button switch, I'll need a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a comparably small and well built Bluetooth mouse suitable to be a UMPC/Netbook/Tablet companion?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I like(d) about the mouse:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to pair&#xD;&#xA; - Fit in a tacklebox (This happened to be dumb luck.  I often store gadgets in tackleboxes to secure them in transit)&#xD;&#xA; - used AAA batteries (standard batteries)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I dislik(ed) about the mouse:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Used AAA batteries (I had to carry extra batteries)&#xD;&#xA; - the battery cover latch got bent once and I could never get it quite right.  It was a hard plastic and I was worried about breaking it&#xD;&#xA; - the left mouse button started to go flaky after a few months to a year of use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**New features that I might like to see**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - built in rechargeable battery&#xD;&#xA; - built in battery can be swapped out for standard and/or replacement battery&#xD;&#xA; - above battery would use a USB cable and also double as USB HID mouse&#xD;&#xA; - comes with case&#xD;&#xA; - especially durable&#xD;&#xA; - presentation features (laser, forward, back, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - not expensive (&lt;$50)&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826129101&amp;cm_re=bluetake_bt500-_-26-129-101-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-mobile_PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2173" RevisionGUID="05d5ce06-0a7f-475b-a90e-4393c7533b05" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:17:41.950" UserId="711" Text="Replacement mouse for Bluetake BT500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2173" RevisionGUID="05d5ce06-0a7f-475b-a90e-4393c7533b05" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:17:41.950" UserId="711" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="6e2ba704-a7ef-4960-ae5f-47ea093f4cd9" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:22:07.857" UserId="219" Text="I want a good indoor drone that also has a docking station at which it gets charged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it would have this part automated with sensors so you could tell it to land when it's hovering over the docking station and it would land and begin charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drone definitely needs to have a camera as well - higher the quality the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="6e2ba704-a7ef-4960-ae5f-47ea093f4cd9" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:22:07.857" UserId="219" Text="Indoor drone with an automatic docking/charging procedure" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="6e2ba704-a7ef-4960-ae5f-47ea093f4cd9" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:22:07.857" UserId="219" Text="&lt;automation&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="032a9b54-e1b0-408c-90cd-6685f5891d62" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:29:11.653" UserId="219" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="I want a good indoor drone that also has a docking station at which it gets charged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it would have this part automated with sensors so you could tell it to land when it's hovering over the docking station and it would land and begin charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drone definitely needs to have a camera as well - higher the quality the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially I'm looking for a nearly hands-free drone possibly for remote usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="1da58192-030b-4eb7-b5f2-cec3c25c88fa" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:53:03.887" UserId="1945" Text="I would like to buy laptop which is good for playing modern games (of 2015. and for 2016 which are coming), multitasking (video editing and interent using) and excelent for multimedia (HD videos watching and HD audio listening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be with at least core i7 processor (at least 3Ghz) with 16Gb RAM and graphic card with at least of 2GB DDR5 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have WiFi and bluetooth and at least one USB 3.0 port and one USB 2.0 (because I have one external USB 3.0 HDD and one USB 2.0 HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend me to buy (with average price of 1500 € ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="1da58192-030b-4eb7-b5f2-cec3c25c88fa" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:53:03.887" UserId="1945" Text="LENOVO LAPTOPS OR ASUS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="1da58192-030b-4eb7-b5f2-cec3c25c88fa" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:53:03.887" UserId="1945" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="987f3706-7ee8-4568-bcb5-3bca7f35981e" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:22:14.603" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Lenovo or Asus laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="987f3706-7ee8-4568-bcb5-3bca7f35981e" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:22:14.603" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="I would like to buy laptop which is good for playing modern games (of 2015, and for 2016 which are coming), multitasking (video editing and interent using) and excellent for multimedia (HD videos watching and HD audio listening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be with at least core i7 processor (at least 3Ghz) with 16Gb RAM and graphic card with at least of 2GB DDR5 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have WiFi and bluetooth and at least one USB 3.0 port and one USB 2.0 (because I have one external USB 3.0 HDD and one USB 2.0 HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend me to buy (with average price of 1500 €)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="f7dc23a8-68e6-4add-921f-f1f037ecabe2" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:26:49.867" UserId="1" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="I would like to buy laptop which is good for playing modern games (of 2015, and for 2016 which are coming), multitasking (video editing and internet usage) and excellent for multimedia (HD videos watching and HD audio listening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have at least a core i7 processor (at least 3GHz) with 16GB RAM and graphics card with at least of 2GB DDR5 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have WiFi and Bluetooth and at least one USB 3.0 port and one USB 2.0 (because I have one external USB 3.0 HDD and one USB 2.0 HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend me to buy? I have a budget of around €1500." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2175" RevisionGUID="f7dc23a8-68e6-4add-921f-f1f037ecabe2" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:26:49.867" UserId="1" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="Gaming laptop with 16GB RAM for around €1500?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2173" RevisionGUID="496c9fba-bc84-4e7c-af84-3be56c90d859" CreationDate="2016-03-04T00:46:06.730" UserId="711" Comment="spelling/formatting" Text="I have a Bluetooth [Bluetake BT500 mouse][1] and one of the buttons is going (the left one of course), the case has some wear, and I'd like a comparable replacement.  It seems that the mouse is no longer in production, and I can't find a comparable replacement.  This mouse was a good match for a [UMPC][2], so we're talking technology from almost 10 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current mouse still mostly works, but if I can't repair the left mouse button switch, I'll need a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a comparably small and well built Bluetooth mouse suitable to be a UMPC/Netbook/Tablet companion?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I like(d) about the mouse:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to pair&#xD;&#xA; - Fit in a tacklebox (This happened to be dumb luck.  I often store gadgets in tackleboxes to secure them in transit)&#xD;&#xA; - used AAA batteries (standard batteries)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I dislike(d) about the mouse:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Used AAA batteries (I had to carry extra batteries)&#xD;&#xA; - the battery cover latch got bent once and I could never get it quite right.  It was a hard plastic and I was worried about breaking it&#xD;&#xA; - the left mouse button started to go flaky after a few months to a year of use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**New features that I might like to see**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - built in rechargeable battery&#xD;&#xA; - built in battery can be swapped out for standard and/or replacement battery&#xD;&#xA; - above battery would use a USB cable and also double as USB HID mouse&#xD;&#xA; - comes with case&#xD;&#xA; - especially durable&#xD;&#xA; - presentation features (laser, forward, back, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - not expensive (&lt; $50)&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826129101&amp;cm_re=bluetake_bt500-_-26-129-101-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-mobile_PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="18d97c03-768b-4bf1-b5ee-854cc81ca472" CreationDate="2016-03-04T02:39:52.103" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2176" RevisionGUID="c9fd135f-aa24-4557-928a-c73e550be21c" CreationDate="2016-03-04T07:40:28.477" UserId="1924" Text="It seems this laptop would match your needs, doesn't it? &#xA;&#xA;[Asus ROG G501VW-FY031T PC Portable Gamer 15.6&quot; Full HD](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B019H4B2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nRt2wbMMV80H4) (sorry, it's a link to the French amazon website, but I'm sure you'll find it easily on whatever your country is) &#xA;&#xA;I'm wondering about your question for USB 2.0,though. Isn't USB 3 meant to be retro compatible? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2176" RevisionGUID="49fc3c28-061b-4284-8e9f-bb6ca1372313" CreationDate="2016-03-04T09:47:25.527" UserId="1924" Comment="added 969 characters in body" Text="It seems this laptop would match your needs, doesn't it? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Asus ROG G501VW-FY031T PC Portable Gamer 15.6&quot; Full HD](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B019H4B2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nRt2wbMMV80H4) (sorry, it's a link to the French amazon website, but I'm sure you'll find it easily on whatever your country is) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It features :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A core i7 processor (With &quot;only&quot; 2.6 Ghz of frequency, but I'm not sure it will make a difference in the games).&#xD;&#xA;- 16 Gb RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 128 Gb SSD for the OS, and 1Tb HDD for the storage.&#xD;&#xA;- A GeForce GTX960M graphics card with 4Gb RAM (And, according to my researches, [is equipped with DDR5](http://www.notebookcheck.net/Nvidia-GeForce-GTX-960M-Review.137893.0.html))&#xD;&#xA;- Equipped with wifi and bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- 3 USB3 ports (and no USB2 port)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering about your question for USB 2.0,though. Isn't USB 3 meant to be retro compatible? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the processor frequency, I don't think it will make a difference in a gaming configuration (The graphics card makes the difference and is not limited by the frequency of the processor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if it can make a slight difference for video editing. [After some researches](http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1736257/gpu-cpu-video-editing.html), that's the number of cores of your processor (The one in this configuration has 4) that could matter, depending on your software, of course." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2177" RevisionGUID="00caa614-5abf-4e28-9f59-e51dfac1f2ae" CreationDate="2016-03-04T11:21:18.833" UserId="1366" Text="If you are looking for laptop for gaming you should look for machine with best GPU. On newegg in this price range the best solution will be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[ASUS ROG G751JY-WH71][1]** $1600 most important features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 4th generation CPU &#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 980M&#xD;&#xA; - SSD 128 GB&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your price range it will be best solution because of GTX 980M GPU. It is the most important part for gaming in laptops. The rest will also meet your requirements. It has no USB 2.0 port but USB 3.0 is backward compatible so you can use one of USB 3.0 slots for USB 2.0 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are from Croatia like your profile says, it will be a little harder. I checked that €1500 is around 11500 Kn so I looked for laptop which meets your requirements in Croatian shops (I'm not familiar with Croatian market it would be easier if you provide some &quot;good croatian shops url's&quot;) and I found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Acer ASPIRE G9-591-73PJ Predator 15][2]** - 11000 Kn on ekupi.hr:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 6th generation i7 CPU (6700HQ)&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB RAM DDR4 (it is enough for gaming)&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX970M (worse than ASUS but should be enough for most of new games)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - no SSD drive&#xD;&#xA; - no operating system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is much worse than ASUS but it's best solution which I could find on Croatian websites. I would look for something with GTX 980M if it's possible in this price range in Croatia. If you provide me with url's of &quot;good&quot; Croatian shops with laptops I will look what you can find there.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834232849&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ekupi.hr/Notebook-Acer-ASPIRE-G9-591-73PJ-Predator-15-NXQ07EX011-801899.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2178" RevisionGUID="feb82bc2-11d9-40a5-8908-a034f56847b8" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:50:55.923" UserId="1946" Text="I am desperately trying to find a power cable for My NVIDIA Quadro 4000. My Dell server has and 8 pin connection on the Power Distribution Board [![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/nXEJS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the GPU has a 6 pin slot. I can get both of these connections on different leads but can't find them as a combination in order to power my GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2178" RevisionGUID="feb82bc2-11d9-40a5-8908-a034f56847b8" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:50:55.923" UserId="1946" Text="power cable for My NVIDIA Quadro 4000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2178" RevisionGUID="feb82bc2-11d9-40a5-8908-a034f56847b8" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:50:55.923" UserId="1946" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2179" RevisionGUID="fbd2f64a-b35e-4104-b472-cf49bb4cac93" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:34:01.140" UserId="57" Text="I have a [LEPA MaxBron][1] in my current machine which powers two nVidia boards. I've been very happy with it's performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a 6+2 set of connectors. This allows you to fit both the 6 and 8 pin power connectors. If you don't need the full 8 pins, the last two can be detached and don't need to be plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![6+2 connector][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On top of this, it is fully modular, so you only need to plug in the power lines you need. This saves you trouble with wiring and improves airflow in the machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Modular supply][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 800W version of this power supply costs less than $100. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few other features that are listed that may help your decision (from NewEgg):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 PLUS BRONZE certified with over 88% efficiency &#xD;&#xA; - 6+2P PCI-E connector supplied supporting extreme graphic cards&#xD;&#xA; - Extended CPU connector cable to 23.6&quot; (60cm) facilitates installation with bottom-mounted PSU chassis&#xD;&#xA; - Anti3s Q-Brick design protects power supply from shock, static electricity, and slip &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817494017&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/l70X8.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aDVPH.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2178" RevisionGUID="e914c770-64d3-4de5-a68b-02c7585384e7" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:35:10.233" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I am trying to find a power cable for My NVIDIA Quadro 4000. My Dell server has an 8 pin connection on the Power Distribution Board and the GPU has a 6 pin slot. I can get both of these connections on different leads but can't find them as a combination in order to power my GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What power supply provides both of these connections?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of connection][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/nXEJS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2178" RevisionGUID="e914c770-64d3-4de5-a68b-02c7585384e7" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:35:10.233" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="4d9be3dd-f89d-4627-b214-5fb809a6a6e7" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:37:38.083" UserId="214" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8120" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2180" RevisionGUID="03cfd2f2-bb34-4406-a17b-7caea0ec5f74" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:57:23.993" UserId="1948" Text="Undoubtedly the intel cpu. Benchmarks don't lie and I'm positive even that since 4th gen Haswell i5's intel has been significantly outperforming even the 8350, let alone the 8320. I'd also check out some of nVidias GPUs if you haven't already" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="7c52a5b2-8208-4144-b433-f7488ad3242f" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:39:55.983" UserId="1951" Text="I have a Harmony 650 Universal Remote, which I love! I use it to control a wide range of devices, but among them, I like being able to use it for playing and pausing media on on my Mac Desktop (technically a Hackintosh, but that isn't really relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Harmony 650 cannot interface over Bluetooth—only IR. For a while now, I've been using the [Logitech Harmony Adapter for PlayStation 3][1] alongside [RemoteBuddy][2] in order to get my remote to interface with my Mac. This adapter is VERY sensitive, in that it can pick up my remote's IR signal no matter which direction the remote is pointed, but annoyingly, the adapter takes around seven seconds to &quot;wake up&quot; after it hasn't been used for a few minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to replace this adapter with a non-Bluetooth, USB IR adapter. However, USB IR adapters seem to be very difficult to find nowadays. Where can I find a USB IR adapter that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Will work with my Mac (preferably via Remote Buddy's Candelair driver)&#xD;&#xA;2) Will have similarly great sensitivity to my Harmony PS3 adapter&#xD;&#xA;3) Costs less than $25 ($10 or less is preferable, but $25 is my limit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.iospirit.com/products/remotebuddy/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="7c52a5b2-8208-4144-b433-f7488ad3242f" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:39:55.983" UserId="1951" Text="USB IR Receiver for Mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="7c52a5b2-8208-4144-b433-f7488ad3242f" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:39:55.983" UserId="1951" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2182" RevisionGUID="a310d566-1147-456a-844c-6c34714d51fb" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:57:24.567" UserId="241" Text="A word of caution: you've got a Dell.  Dell is known for using non-standard pinouts on their power supplies, so if possible, check the documentation before plugging anything in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I think the technical name for what you're looking for is an EPS-to-PCIe cable, such as [this Y-cable from Newegg][1].  Yes, it's a Y-splitter rather than a straight-through cable, but the keying pattern matches what's in your picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198035&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=pcie_power_cable-_-12-198-035-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="d1a21c88-0bf1-46b8-9716-a41416a08d36" CreationDate="2016-03-04T23:44:07.737" UserId="1951" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I have a Harmony 650 Universal Remote, which I love! I use it to control a wide range of devices, but among them, I like being able to use it for playing and pausing media on on my Mac Desktop (technically a Hackintosh, but that isn't really relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Harmony 650 cannot interface over Bluetooth--only IR. For a while now, I've been using the [Logitech Harmony Adapter for PlayStation 3][1] alongside [RemoteBuddy][2] in order to get my remote to be recognized by my Mac. One of the things I like about this adapter is that it's very sensitive--it's able to pick up an IR signal no matter which direction my remote is pointed. Annoyingly, however, the harmony adapter takes around seven seconds to &quot;wake up&quot; after it hasn't been used for a few minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to replace this adapter with a non-Bluetooth, USB IR adapter. However, USB IR adapters seem to be very difficult to find nowadays. Where can I find a USB IR adapter that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Will work with my Mac (preferably via Remote Buddy's Candelair driver)&#xD;&#xA;2. Will have similarly great sensitivity to my Harmony PS3 adapter&#xD;&#xA;3. Costs less than $25 ($10 or less is preferable, but $25 is my limit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.iospirit.com/products/remotebuddy/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="2b44f1d1-266a-4d76-8b04-91fb25ff5fbb" CreationDate="2016-03-04T23:50:16.783" UserId="1951" Comment="Added additional link to Candelair driver, now that I have enough reputation to do so." Text="I have a Harmony 650 Universal Remote, which I love! I use it to control a wide range of devices, among them playing and pausing media on on my Mac. (technically a Hackintosh, but that isn't directly relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Harmony 650 cannot interface over Bluetooth--only IR. For a while now, I've been using the [Logitech Harmony Adapter for PlayStation 3][1] alongside [RemoteBuddy][2] in order to get my remote to be recognized by my computer. One of the things I like about this adapter is its sensitivity--it's able to pick up an IR signal no matter which direction my remote is pointed. Annoyingly, however, the harmony adapter takes around seven seconds to &quot;wake up&quot; after it hasn't been used for a few minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to replace this adapter with a non-Bluetooth, USB IR adapter. However, USB IR adapters seem to be very difficult to find nowadays. Where can I find a USB IR adapter that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Will work with my Mac (preferably via Remote Buddy's [Candelair driver][3])&#xD;&#xA;2. Will have similarly great sensitivity to my Harmony PS3 adapter&#xD;&#xA;3. Costs less than $25 ($10 or less is preferable, but $25 is my limit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.iospirit.com/products/remotebuddy/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.iospirit.com/labs/candelair/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="c20cdb6b-da68-40d3-8f87-3c3681747fbe" CreationDate="2016-03-05T00:01:49.607" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 16 characters in body" Text="I have a Harmony 650 Universal Remote, which I love! I use it to control a wide range of devices, among them playing and pausing media on on my Mac. (technically a Hackintosh, but that isn't directly relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Harmony 650 cannot interface over Bluetooth--only IR. For a while now, I've been using the [Logitech Harmony Adapter for PlayStation 3][1] alongside [RemoteBuddy][2] in order to get my remote to be recognized by my computer. One of the things I like about this adapter is its sensitivity--it's able to pick up an IR signal no matter which direction my remote is pointed. Annoyingly, however, the harmony adapter takes around seven seconds to &quot;wake up&quot; after it hasn't been used for a few minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to replace this adapter with a non-Bluetooth, USB IR adapter. However, USB IR adapters seem to be very difficult to find nowadays. Where can I find a USB IR adapter that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Will work with my Mac (preferably via Remote Buddy's [Candelair driver][3])&#xD;&#xA;2. Will have similarly great sensitivity to my Harmony PS3 adapter&#xD;&#xA;3. Costs less than $25 ($10 or less is preferable, but $25 is my limit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.iospirit.com/products/remotebuddy/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.iospirit.com/labs/candelair/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="19f48f5e-30e0-471d-93ad-e70d7378c77e" CreationDate="2016-03-05T03:41:32.047" UserId="1921" Text="http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=ubuntu_trusty_30way&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=1080p-b-value&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=amdnv-4k-15gpu&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact there are a dozen more articles comparing video cards on phoronix.com, and you can use that to decide how much you want to spend for how much performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also visit OpenBenchmarking.org&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/eRied.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2186" RevisionGUID="878cb5e0-1eb8-45ca-8504-cc047ba77d41" CreationDate="2016-03-05T05:00:49.083" UserId="1111" Text="I know this may be a little late, but I do know of one potential option. I couldn't find an adapter like what you describe (I was looking for the DisplayPort equivalent of [this](http://amzn.com/B00ESM3ZHG)), but they do make HDMI source switchers with automatic input select, for example [this one from A-Tech](http://amzn.com/B00NPHLDQA):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a select button but also will automatically select inputs if only one is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, to one input, connect a DisplayPort -&gt; HDMI conversion cable. To the other, connect a Mini DisplayPort -&gt; HDMI cable. Leave the cable ends hanging out in the open for users to see, and let them pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing you could do, although it might be slightly more complicated for users, is use a DisplayPort -&gt; HDMI cable. Leave it exposed. Then get a [slim Mini DisplayPort -&gt; Display Port adapter](http://amzn.com/B003YKX6K4) and tie it to the end of the cable with a little string. Users with mini DP can use it if they need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dj8v2.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2187" RevisionGUID="4d942b3b-2d44-4568-8d68-74e82518b370" CreationDate="2016-03-05T05:17:27.157" UserId="1921" Text="I found this on a forum.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; i was using OpenELEC 5.0.5 for RPi1 on my old RPi1B+ and CEC was&#xD;&#xA;&gt; working well on my TV. today, i just received my new RPi2 and i&#xD;&#xA;&gt; installed OpenELEC 5.0.5 for RPi2. also here CEC is working well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Several people have report being able to do this with a raspberry pi 2.  The device is $35 and you will need a 5v power supply,SD card, usb wifi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The raspberry pi 3 has a built-in wifi adapter if you go with that model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest you would have to research on the exact details of how.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the bonus points, Raspberry Pi, all versions, run linux and therefore support apache.  You can add a certificate from the **letsencrypt** project and setup a login screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="cd01f549-91ca-42d1-8973-8e09a5624d72" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:15:51.650" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2172" RevisionGUID="da420f8a-7b73-40c8-a54a-8c4a111b21e0" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:33:45.427" UserId="711" Comment="incoroprate feedback" Text="There are a lot of SBCs (Single Board Computers) similar or competitive to the Raspberry Pi that will fulfill your requests.  They are pretty broad, and the market is pretty hot right now, so you have lots of options.  Like most, I've played around mostly with Raspberry Pis of various sort.  Aside from the B, B+, and 2, you have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I have an [ODROID C1+][1], and it has greater specs than the Raspberry Pi 2, with which it competes.  I loaded Android to it, but it also has Ubuntu available.&#xD;&#xA;2. I have a Beaglebone (I don't think it's the [black version][2] though), but I have not done anything with it.  It's somewhat competitive in features with Raspberry Pis, I think the original B and the B+.  This device is usually meant to run headless, though they do have HDMI ports.&#xD;&#xA;3. I have a [Raspberry Pi Zero][5], which is neat.  I don't think it has any lower power conspumption, and it's required adapters may negate the savings of the board itself, but it is physically small, which may be a boon for your project.&#xD;&#xA;4. I have looked at the [Banana Pi][3] whilest browsing SBCs.&#xD;&#xA;5. Continuing with the fruit pies, is the [Orange Pi][4], another full featured cheap SBC, though this one makes a point of being extremely low cost.&#xD;&#xA;6. The [pcDuino][6] combines an arduino and PC components and has various flavors including USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;7. [The CHIP computer][7] is a $9 SBC that hasn't started fully shipping  yet, but it's another low cost, low power SBC sure to catch your eye.  They should start taking regular orders in the fall if I recall correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SBCs all have slightly different features, which is good and bad.  I have come across a blog that keeps up with all sorts of little devices called [Liliputing][8].  You could scroll through it and see if there are any other devices which might suit your tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mark mentioned community support.  I've seen some grumblings in the FOSS communities that people don't understand the allure of the Raspberry Pi, because there are more powerful, more feature rich alternatives.  Keep in mind that while the community is large, a good chunk of it are n00bs asking the same questions over and over again presumably getting stuck on known issues.  Those known issues can be with the OS, the board, or while they are trying to realign the squishy parts to wrap their squishy part around the concept of Linux and/or Linux around the Pi.  My point is that a community of problems is not a beneficial community to the newcomer.  I'm a newcomer, and this is my gripe.  Also, I imagine that a lot fo Raspberry Pi How tos will work on other similar SBCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ameridroid.com/products/odroid-c1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://beagleboard.org/black&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.banana-pi.com/eacp_view.asp?id=35&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.orangepi.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.linksprite.com/linksprite-pcduino/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1598272670/chip-the-worlds-first-9-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://liliputing.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="e7b18ca5-6471-4e3c-9ce3-79bae4df66f5" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:07:55.677" UserId="1959" Text="All, &#xA;&#xA;I would like to broadcast a WiFi network, not rebroadcast. I have a dedicated machine setup for a firewall etc and 4 card network port in, now I need to broadcast a network. &#xA;&#xA;What sort of card do I need? What features or specifications should I be looking for? &#xA;&#xA;Thanks&#xA;&#xA;Steve" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="e7b18ca5-6471-4e3c-9ce3-79bae4df66f5" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:07:55.677" UserId="1959" Text="What WiFi card for broadcasting a network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="e7b18ca5-6471-4e3c-9ce3-79bae4df66f5" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:07:55.677" UserId="1959" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="713fa725-b2f0-48e6-bb67-77037d12bd50" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:13:06.700" UserId="1959" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="All, &#xA;&#xA;I would like to broadcast a WiFi network, not rebroadcast. I have a dedicated machine setup for a firewall etc and 4 card network port in, now I need to broadcast a network. &#xA;&#xA;It needs to be able to handle up to 10 devices with a decent throughput &#xA;&#xA;What sort of card do I need? What features or specifications should I be looking for? &#xA;&#xA;Thanks&#xA;&#xA;Steve" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="9bc31f07-70ce-4228-a975-eb2d7bc2d446" CreationDate="2016-03-06T00:11:51.080" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 18 characters in body" Text="I would like to broadcast a WiFi network, not rebroadcast. I have a dedicated machine setup for a firewall etc and 4 card network port in, now I need to broadcast a network. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be able to handle up to 10 devices with a decent throughput &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What sort of card do I need? What features or specifications should I be looking for? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="573963a8-1a28-4af1-b17f-9ed9b82dae15" CreationDate="2016-03-06T00:12:02.113" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8175" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="07b003fd-910a-41a4-a5e5-1da21c80053d" CreationDate="2016-03-06T07:03:07.840" UserId="1921" Comment="I added my recommendation" Text="http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=ubuntu_trusty_30way&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=1080p-b-value&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=amdnv-4k-15gpu&amp;num=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact there are a dozen more articles comparing video cards on phoronix.com, and you can use that to decide how much you want to spend for how much performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also visit OpenBenchmarking.org&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion I recommend the Geforce GTX 970 because it offers the best price for the performance levels.  The the fasters cards are $100+ more and best case you get 10 fps more.  You wanted the 970 anyway for the oculus rift.  Current the 970 is about $320-$350 on newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/eRied.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="73b77f0f-e784-4e7f-a3e2-9198de140401" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:11:30.773" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="87c8cee4-9fd2-49c0-a20f-ef436a087ded" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:36:57.697" UserId="1189" Text="At home, I frequently move between two rooms with my OS X laptop. I would like to get two wireless speakers and place one in each room, to avoid the hassle of having to connect them via Aux Line-in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Critical features:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Wireless speakers I am looking for **should be able to source computer audio**, and let me select where to play it at any time:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Play one of the speakers*, or...&#xD;&#xA;- *Both speakers at the same time*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, I would like them to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support *AirPlay streaming* from iOS devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional features:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional, but not critical:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support direct streaming from services like Spotify, Soundcloud&#xD;&#xA;* Allow Aux Line-In or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;* Manufacturer also provides &quot;bridge&quot; unit that can connect ordinary line-in speakers to the Wi-Fi system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricing:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Up to 450 USD per speaker, but preferably lower.&#xD;&#xA;Audio quality should be **good** but doesn't need to be ***Hi-Fi great*** (and thus very expensive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the above criteria, I'm assuming that Bluetooth speakers are not effective, because I need to be able to move around with the laptop and still have connectivity. Also, there is a thick wall between the two rooms so they wouldn't be able to communicate with each other via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is if you could recommend some Wi-Fi spekaers that meet these critera – if there are any?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="87c8cee4-9fd2-49c0-a20f-ef436a087ded" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:36:57.697" UserId="1189" Text="Wireless Speaker Pair that can play simultaneous audio from computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="87c8cee4-9fd2-49c0-a20f-ef436a087ded" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:36:57.697" UserId="1189" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2195" RevisionGUID="5a1a391d-242b-4b61-8d83-b9687bb80792" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:03:19.197" UserId="1958" Text="I am studying JVM multi-threading and I need to try it on other architectures, Arm is already abandoned so I am searching for with a netbook or other small computing device. Can anyone recommend something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    MIPS CPU&#xD;&#xA;    preferably dual+ core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could be something like Raspberry pi, but MIPS based." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2195" RevisionGUID="5a1a391d-242b-4b61-8d83-b9687bb80792" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:03:19.197" UserId="1958" Text="Looking for MIPS-based computer (netbook or similar gadget) for studying JVM multithreading" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2195" RevisionGUID="5a1a391d-242b-4b61-8d83-b9687bb80792" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:03:19.197" UserId="1958" Text="&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="be7af8b2-575c-4d38-9277-08423d7e6635" CreationDate="2016-03-06T15:17:36.420" UserId="653" Comment="Edited in-line with their duplicate question on SU (http://superuser.com/questions/1049324/how-to-create-and-access-point-with-existing-pc-running-windows-server). Question should now be on-topic." Text="I would like to create a WiFi access point. I have a dedicated machine running Windows Server 2012 setup for DHCP and firewall. 4 port network card for local my wired network, now I would like to add WiFi functionality to that setup via a WiFi adapter acting as an AP (Access Point).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be able to handle up to 10 devices with a decent throughput.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of hardware do I need? I'd ideally like to have something that is internal to the PC such as a PCI card or an antenna but not a separate device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="be7af8b2-575c-4d38-9277-08423d7e6635" CreationDate="2016-03-06T15:17:36.420" UserId="653" Comment="Edited in-line with their duplicate question on SU (http://superuser.com/questions/1049324/how-to-create-and-access-point-with-existing-pc-running-windows-server). Question should now be on-topic." Text="What WiFi adapter should I use to create a WiFi network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="be7af8b2-575c-4d38-9277-08423d7e6635" CreationDate="2016-03-06T15:17:36.420" Comment="Proposed by 653 approved by 1959 edit id of 406" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="264" RevisionGUID="ab4a5830-1f1e-43f3-bef5-49794a4e2d00" CreationDate="2016-03-06T15:58:07.103" UserId="54" Comment="minor editorial changes" Text="**E-ink is a solution for your #1 and #2.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I can recommend Kindle. I've been using my ebook reader for 3 years and it made a big relief for my eyes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my case it's Kindle Keyboard but version with touchscreen display is also available on the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Kindle, 6&quot; Glare-Free Touchscreen Display][1] for £59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[All-New Kindle Paperwhite, 6&quot; with Built-in Light][2] for £109.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  You don't have to care that much about storage because popular formats like epub or mobi are really lightweight. 4 GB makes you able to hold thousands of books.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life (from amazon):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A single charge lasts up to four weeks, based on half an hour of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; reading per day with wireless off. Battery life will vary based on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wireless usage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This description has much in common with reality. **E-ink display consumes power only when the displayed pages change**. This is the main difference in comparison to LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kindle-Glare-Free-Touchscreen-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00KDRUCJY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-New-Kindle-Paperwhite-Resolution-Display/dp/B00QJDO0QC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Goodreads integration is possible (Amazon bought this company):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Goodreads on Kindle lets you connect with the Goodreads community,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; follow friends and see what they are reading, and share and rate books&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on your Kindle. You can also shop for Kindle books and purchase&#xD;&#xA;&gt; selected titles directly within Goodreads. Help for Kindle Voyage (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), Kindle Paperwhite (7th Generation), Kindle (7th&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Generation), and Kindle Paperwhite (6th Generation). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Source: [Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201734030)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="4344b2af-74af-4335-b564-317c7770d846" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:14:46.553" UserId="1111" Text="I'm looking for a storage case for the following collection of items (not including the ruler, which is just for reference in the photo):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The crash cart adapter (left) is about 1&quot; depth. I've already picked up an [Amazon Basics Travel Case](http://amzn.com/B002VPE1QG), which is a perfect fit for the accessories but doesn't fit the adapter itself (disappointing; it is a nice little case):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does have to be a hard case, other than that I don't have any real solid requirements for this one. Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hard shell, zipper preferred to clips.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50, but I'm somewhat flexible there.&#xD;&#xA;- In the item photo above, the objects in the top row should be the easiest to access.&#xD;&#xA;- Space for a couple more video adapters in the future. Doesn't really need space for anything else beyond what's in the picture, though.&#xD;&#xA;- Can be opened without everything falling out; no loose storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to lock.&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to have a soft cloth exterior (although it does look nicer).&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't *need* internal padding like foam (it's OK if it does, but the device itself is already ruggedized and is not fragile).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I kind of want to stay away from custom-built cases for budget reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gk1XB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yUUxE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="4344b2af-74af-4335-b564-317c7770d846" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:14:46.553" UserId="1111" Text="Storage case for crash cart adapter and accessories" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="4344b2af-74af-4335-b564-317c7770d846" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:14:46.553" UserId="1111" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="0d28ddfb-9c48-4718-9020-9096fb465f91" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:20:41.660" UserId="1111" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a storage case for the following collection of items (not including the ruler, which is just for reference in the photo):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The crash cart adapter (left) is about 1&quot; depth. I've already picked up an [Amazon Basics Travel Case](http://amzn.com/B002VPE1QG), which is a perfect fit for the accessories but doesn't fit the adapter itself (disappointing; it is a nice little case):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does have to be a hard case, other than that I don't have any real solid requirements for this one. Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hard shell, zipper preferred to clips.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50, but I'm somewhat flexible there.&#xD;&#xA;- In the item photo above, the objects in the top row should be the easiest to access.&#xD;&#xA;- Space for a couple more video adapters in the future. Doesn't really need space for anything else beyond what's in the picture, though.&#xD;&#xA;- Can be opened without everything falling out; no loose storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to lock.&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to have a soft cloth exterior (although it does look nicer).&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't *need* internal padding like foam (it's OK if it does, but the device itself is already ruggedized and is not fragile).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I kind of want to stay away from custom-built cases for budget reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iPzSS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yUUxE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="146c960e-fce4-447f-9122-dca82f4a3fcd" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:24:56.453" UserId="1960" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $150(may go a little over).&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA; Here is a list of things I want it to include:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-compatible with micro SD card&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-uses android OS&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;-Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-multi-touch is a must&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-At least 2gb of ram&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-super-Amoled screen&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-An led notification bar&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a bug budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="146c960e-fce4-447f-9122-dca82f4a3fcd" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:24:56.453" UserId="1960" Text="Android phone under $150 with great specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="146c960e-fce4-447f-9122-dca82f4a3fcd" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:24:56.453" UserId="1960" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="7a6ae722-0c84-444b-9342-209c0039ca15" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:53:40.930" UserId="1111" Comment="added 71 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a storage case for the following collection of items (not including the ruler, which is just for reference in the photo):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The item on the left is a USB KVM adapter, it is about 1&quot; depth; the rest is a collection of accessories I've built up. I've already picked up an [Amazon Basics Travel Case](http://amzn.com/B002VPE1QG), which is a perfect fit for the accessories but doesn't fit the adapter itself (disappointing; it is a nice little case):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does have to be a hard case, other than that I don't have any real solid requirements for this one. Ideally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hard shell, zipper preferred to clips.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50, but I'm somewhat flexible there.&#xD;&#xA;- In the item photo above, the objects in the top row should be the easiest to access.&#xD;&#xA;- Space for a couple more video adapters in the future. Doesn't really need space for anything else beyond what's in the picture, though.&#xD;&#xA;- Can be opened without everything falling out; no loose storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to lock.&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't need to have a soft cloth exterior (although it does look nicer).&#xD;&#xA;- Doesn't *need* internal padding like foam (it's OK if it does, but the device itself is already ruggedized and is not fragile).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I kind of want to stay away from custom-built cases for budget reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iPzSS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yUUxE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2198" RevisionGUID="7a6ae722-0c84-444b-9342-209c0039ca15" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:53:40.930" UserId="1111" Comment="added 71 characters in body; edited title" Text="Carrying case for a device and some accessories" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="77a9f45f-756e-4059-a698-64e159da02d2" CreationDate="2016-03-06T20:23:17.190" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 56 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $150(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2202" RevisionGUID="13b91a47-b2b1-4e2f-967e-ec80912cd286" CreationDate="2016-03-06T22:00:31.177" UserId="1921" Text="Your best bet is one of the Rasbperry PI 2 or 3 is $35&#xD;&#xA;The PI 3 does actually have built-in wifi, but no WPS button or activity leds.  They both have a RJ45 for hard wiring with activity leds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need a 5V adapter,SD card, USB wifi adapter and shipping and handling will bring the cost up a bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Give up on the WPS and wifi activity leds and save $10-$20.&#xD;&#xA;You can then get a USB dongle if you really need a WPS dongle and wifi activity leds." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2203" RevisionGUID="a1068ef3-3359-4b1f-9c6c-e2aa050a0bcf" CreationDate="2016-03-06T23:38:24.463" UserId="1970" Text="I need a keyboard and a mouse. They should run on Bluetooth, but be chargeable via USB as well, if that's possible? Preferable both in one go.&#xA;&#xA;Price limit: Rs. 1000/-.&#xA;&#xA;Bluetooth essential.&#xA;Price essential.&#xA;Chargeable desirable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2203" RevisionGUID="a1068ef3-3359-4b1f-9c6c-e2aa050a0bcf" CreationDate="2016-03-06T23:38:24.463" UserId="1970" Text="I need Bluetooth-enabled keyboard and mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2203" RevisionGUID="a1068ef3-3359-4b1f-9c6c-e2aa050a0bcf" CreationDate="2016-03-06T23:38:24.463" UserId="1970" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="09b1870b-4589-4c1b-8b76-29a02a65631b" CreationDate="2016-03-07T00:27:03.100" UserId="1971" Text="I have a Surface tablet. And I need to get it's USB signal about 10' away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An active hub 5' away, and that doesn't work. Apparently the tablet doesn't put enough power on the USB to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 2. An active hub next to the tablet and another 5' away. Same problem, cause again the laptop is the power source and doesn't provide enough power to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 3. I've switched both hubs for externally powered hubs, but it turns out that the external power was only for charging things when the hub wasn't plugged into a source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I really need here is an externally powered active hub. I want it to use *it's own power* not the source power to repeat the signal. (And I want to not have to buy 4 more hubs to achieve this.) Does such a thing exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="09b1870b-4589-4c1b-8b76-29a02a65631b" CreationDate="2016-03-07T00:27:03.100" UserId="1971" Text="Externally Powered USB Active Repeater" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="09b1870b-4589-4c1b-8b76-29a02a65631b" CreationDate="2016-03-07T00:27:03.100" UserId="1971" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2051" RevisionGUID="90f4e754-6046-4a36-ab6f-1a5c7a1d8f34" CreationDate="2016-03-07T05:29:19.943" UserId="-1" Comment="17" />
  <row Id="8237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="7aa7b567-2fa3-4479-90ef-b079d00de3c8" CreationDate="2016-03-07T08:12:22.993" UserId="1959" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="I would like to create a WiFi access point. I have a dedicated machine running Windows Server 2012 setup for DHCP and firewall. 4 port network card for my local wired network, now I would like to add WiFi to that setup via a WiFi adapter acting as an AP (Access Point).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be able to handle up to 10 devices with a decent throughput.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of hardware do I need? I'd ideally like to have something that is internal to the PC such as a PCI card or an antenna but not a separate device, however if my only option is a separate device then it's fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="cb59c1ec-c3c9-4d5f-80ea-39f7e4e0b3ab" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:28:38.083" UserId="1974" Text="I'm interested in purchasing a large 4K TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One feature I promised myself I'd check on, before purchasing another television, is the ability to turn the TV's screen off at any time, while still being able to hear the audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes I just want to listen to the TV without watching it, and I'd like to save energy during these times (by turning off the screen).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this feature offered? Ideally, I'd like it to be a button on the remote control, so I don't have to navigate through a bunch of menus to toggle the screen on and off." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="cb59c1ec-c3c9-4d5f-80ea-39f7e4e0b3ab" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:28:38.083" UserId="1974" Text="TV that you can turn off the screen while still listening to audio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="cb59c1ec-c3c9-4d5f-80ea-39f7e4e0b3ab" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:28:38.083" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2211" RevisionGUID="ac1963c7-4fde-4d25-b7d2-fbd263d5fd4c" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:52:24.797" UserId="1975" Text="Is it possible to filter wifi users by their MAC addresses and allocate different bandwidth for each of them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Say, a device (having MAC address 14-CC-20-0A-2A-6E) will get 5mbps and another device (14-CC-20-0A-5A-12) will get 3mbps?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any router that can help me achieve this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2211" RevisionGUID="ac1963c7-4fde-4d25-b7d2-fbd263d5fd4c" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:52:24.797" UserId="1975" Text="Wifi router - different bandwidth allocation for each mac addresse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2211" RevisionGUID="ac1963c7-4fde-4d25-b7d2-fbd263d5fd4c" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:52:24.797" UserId="1975" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="1e134187-669d-40a3-81f6-9baad0b18230" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:58:34.000" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/116703/usb-drive-with-password-write-protection" />
  <row Id="8252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="5434fe68-ce6c-4b3f-b14a-46fa1390c839" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:42:05.417" UserId="1977" UserDisplayName="Tobia" Text="I'm looking for a **password-write-protected USB Drive** or Flash Memory card where I can write to it only with a password.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Do such products exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I DO NOT want a software protection/encryption with a common pendrive, I need a suitable drive for this purpose with some specific hardware features. And maybe I will need a custom native library to write to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Mandatory) Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Encryption taking place in the drive / card&#xD;&#xA; - 512MB or more storage&#xD;&#xA; - (Reliable) password protection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Access via native means of the OS or via specialized library&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="5434fe68-ce6c-4b3f-b14a-46fa1390c839" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:42:05.417" UserId="1977" UserDisplayName="Tobia" Text="USB drive with password write protection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="5434fe68-ce6c-4b3f-b14a-46fa1390c839" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:42:05.417" UserId="1977" UserDisplayName="Tobia" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="05577963-c12d-4000-af02-fbdbba7009d8" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:59:35.590" UserId="1977" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a **password-write-protected USB Drive** or Flash Memory card where I can write to it only with a password.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Do such products exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I DO NOT want a software protection/encryption with a common pendrive, I need a suitable drive for this purpose with some specific hardware features. And maybe I will need a custom native library to write to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Mandatory) Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No encryption required&#xD;&#xA; - 512MB or more storage&#xD;&#xA; - Write password protection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Write via native means of the OS or via specialized library&#xD;&#xA; - Read without password, possibly like a common usb pendrive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="4773acad-9a89-430a-98ca-56cce0170f3e" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:24:04.810" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="7f110310-5a07-4f06-8ce8-49ccc1130f04" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:22:00.270" UserId="1978" Text="I am looking for any consumer-audio (1/4 or 1/8 inch, mono or stereo) 3-way cable that could be described as a 'T' splitter rather than a 'Y' splitter.  The intended use is to be able chain multiple 'T' splitters on top of each other without putting extra physical strain on the cable portion (rather than the metal connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not find such a cable in my searches and wonder if anyone else has come across one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![T splitter example](http://imgur.com/5RGMCO7.png)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="7f110310-5a07-4f06-8ce8-49ccc1130f04" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:22:00.270" UserId="1978" Text="Does this audio connector exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="7f110310-5a07-4f06-8ce8-49ccc1130f04" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:22:00.270" UserId="1978" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="d4d6bc50-d7a5-43cb-bbe4-91b4d0f526c7" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:30:47.843" UserId="1978" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking for any consumer-audio (1/4 or 1/8 inch, mono or stereo) 3-way cable that could be described as a 'T' splitter rather than a 'Y' splitter.  The intended use is to be able chain multiple 'T' splitters on top of each other without putting extra physical strain on the cable portion (rather than the metal connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not find such a cable in my searches and wonder if anyone else has come across one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![T splitter example](http://imgur.com/3tVU5ct.png)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="025dfa44-c953-491e-a54a-385b14c381b5" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:54:33.607" UserId="8" Comment="added 230 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a **password-write-protected USB Drive** or Flash Memory card where I can write to it only with a password.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Do such products exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I DO NOT want a software protection/encryption with a common pendrive, I need a suitable drive for this purpose with some specific hardware features. And maybe I will need a custom native library to write to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Mandatory) Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No encryption required&#xD;&#xA; - 512MB or more storage&#xD;&#xA; - Write password protection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Write via native means of the OS or via specialized library&#xD;&#xA; - Read without password, possibly like a common usb pendrive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Password method is not mandatory but I must be sure that only my software should toggle write protection on/off. So any other method is welcome, for example an hardware switch is not good because everybody could turn it on or off." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2010" RevisionGUID="c1a0efed-2523-416f-8781-e784d69c4c69" CreationDate="2016-03-07T18:30:17.973" UserId="1459" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a reasonably priced USB hub to use primarily as a charging station.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - entirely USB 3.0 so that it may also function as a modern USB hub&#xD;&#xA; - at least 4 ports total&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 ports with Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0&#xD;&#xA; - power output sufficient to utilize all Quick Charge ports simultaneously (10W each)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2216" RevisionGUID="8529b325-b529-4d19-8e29-39e07a5bea23" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:04:10.613" UserId="1979" Text="I have a bunch of external hard drives, and I'm getting a bit tired of connecting and disconnecting them all the time - not to mention the noise. I'd like to find a way to connect them to my network instead so they can sit in a cabinet and stay out of my way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything that could do that? Ideally wired, but wifi will do at a pinch. If it can take multiple drives, that'd be a bonus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2216" RevisionGUID="8529b325-b529-4d19-8e29-39e07a5bea23" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:04:10.613" UserId="1979" Text="Is there a NAS adapter for USB drives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2216" RevisionGUID="8529b325-b529-4d19-8e29-39e07a5bea23" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:04:10.613" UserId="1979" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="b9b29766-426f-4eca-bd4c-35647388e559" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:13:30.840" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I would like to create a WiFi access point. I have a dedicated machine running Windows Server 2012 setup for DHCP and firewall. 4 port network card for my local wired network, now I would like to add WiFi to that setup via a WiFi adapter acting as an AP (Access Point).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be able to handle up to 10 devices with a decent throughput.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of hardware do I need? I'd ideally like to have something that is internal to the PC such as a PCI card or an antenna but not a separate device, however if my only option is a separate device then it's fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2191" RevisionGUID="732ed7b5-7588-42d2-8798-572c3593bc51" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:13:36.560" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:128,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Zizouz212&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2217" RevisionGUID="6d4d254e-cca8-44fe-af02-919a77f58c32" CreationDate="2016-03-08T05:13:31.267" UserId="131" Text="You might be able to use something these, feedthru RCA adapters with a side connector:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-RCA-adapter-RCA-Male-to-female-to-Female-M-F-F-Connector-Adapter-Audio-3/32469466648.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.167.2LWvQi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Audio-Right-Angle-RCA-Copper-Adapter-Splitter-1-Male-to-2-Female-Gold-Tone-/191495690255&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Daisy chain the barrels and add extension cables from the side connectors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="0b70aff0-b3da-4593-aa1d-44ca9c068d3d" CreationDate="2016-03-08T17:14:24.900" UserId="1960" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $150(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="245cec2b-ea34-45f4-8c2e-402bdfd0ad30" CreationDate="2016-03-08T17:22:31.343" UserId="1960" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $150(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2221" RevisionGUID="99c0367a-8ef5-4f30-9c19-fcbc827fe243" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:40:34.397" UserId="1987" Text="I recently got a new (to me) computer. It was [a workhorse computer][1] from a few years ago. I'm trying to rig it up to work with an SSD in its new life with me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the motherboard has SATA II and PCIe x4 slots available. I purchased a [SAMSUNG 850 EVO M.2 SATA III][2] drive  which I was hoping would wrok but because of my confusion on how the M.2 spec works the drive I purchased is not directly compatible with my motherboard. I was assuming I could plug it into a PCIe slot (obviously that was wrong), then I was hoping I could get a PCIe to M.2 adapter but because this particular drive is M.2/SATA which means if I get an adapter I'd have to plug it in to a SATA II port which is what I was hoping to avoid is the first place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something I can buy that can either &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Make use of the drive I purchased while not compromising speed, or&#xD;&#xA;2. Another drive I could buy (~100$, ~250 GB) that will work with PCIe and not have an SSD's speed potential stifled by SATA II?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c01709707&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K3UA7510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2221" RevisionGUID="99c0367a-8ef5-4f30-9c19-fcbc827fe243" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:40:34.397" UserId="1987" Text="SSD to work with PCIe" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2221" RevisionGUID="99c0367a-8ef5-4f30-9c19-fcbc827fe243" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:40:34.397" UserId="1987" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2222" RevisionGUID="6d024fdd-2238-417e-b9a2-4d6735cd4ce4" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:49:04.670" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2223" RevisionGUID="b6960d99-4c37-4de0-8f81-532d40a5e50b" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:49:04.670" UserId="8" Text="For questions about hardware that will be used to power any aspect of web development, including development itself or hosting the resulting product." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2224" RevisionGUID="bd3188b8-ab9b-4959-b318-cf4ac6c8392e" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:49:51.017" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8294" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2225" RevisionGUID="866d6874-1fdb-407d-b3d5-9dbf119a8557" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:49:51.017" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for a single-port extender device; i.e. one that provides multiple connection points while using only one existing port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2226" RevisionGUID="619b8f02-47e5-4b16-9272-e80f7fc44b84" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:50:30.753" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2227" RevisionGUID="4fb57bb0-0192-419a-aeb5-b1453716dfc8" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:50:30.753" UserId="8" Text="For questions that are asking for an Internet-connected &quot;smart device&quot; that is or could be part of the Internet of Things." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2228" RevisionGUID="1e652e07-2f65-4e91-8392-ba0498680fb4" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:51:25.010" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2229" RevisionGUID="e5f10584-269c-46e4-abb5-e7b29ec598c0" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:51:25.010" UserId="8" Text="To be used on posts that ask about hardware used for game development. The most common examples are graphics cards and CPU's." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2230" RevisionGUID="705155a9-4b38-4e3a-9052-6822e2cfd1be" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:52:03.183" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2231" RevisionGUID="6f584c45-794d-40a1-a5f1-43e48403030a" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:52:03.183" UserId="8" Text="For questions that require an electroacoustic transducer device that converts electrical input to human-audible output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2232" RevisionGUID="2c17381d-97a2-4db9-bbc7-f7cc3a49729d" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:52:41.030" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2233" RevisionGUID="a1c22822-adcf-4464-a61c-af3961fabf72" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:52:41.030" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for hardware that implements or uses a Video Graphics Array connection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2234" RevisionGUID="95352961-cb84-46db-8492-d8a306e55c9a" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:53:10.423" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2235" RevisionGUID="8cc30def-9430-4df1-bbeb-8159ad4e99d5" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:53:10.423" UserId="8" Text="For questions relating to hardware specialised for tasks within the realm of any type of signal processing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2236" RevisionGUID="7ff599ef-4804-481f-b858-93cccfb18f2d" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:53:49.660" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2237" RevisionGUID="7462e027-7543-49f5-8329-0c36b96908d5" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:53:49.660" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for a remote, portable memory device whose primary storage method is using flash memory." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="531" RevisionGUID="98d33eeb-2156-4d43-ad23-833d29f38595" CreationDate="2016-03-08T23:05:02.247" UserId="8" Comment="added 990 characters in body" Text="This tag should be used on questions that are asking for a recommendation of a laptop. Components for use *wthin* a laptop should instead use their respective tag (such as [tag:memory] for RAM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Laptops][1] are one of the major players in modern computing. They are designed to be *&quot;portable desktops&quot;* - i.e. for the most part, they have most of the capabilities of a regular desktop PC, but are much more easily moved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first commercially successful laptop was the [Compaq Portable][1], released in 1982 (though there were earlier models, such as the [Osborne 1][2] of 1981). Since then, the humble laptop has developed into a number of forms such as [netbooks][4] and notebooks (though what exactly the difference *is* is unclear and is often suspected to be a marketing strategy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laptop&#xD;&#xA;[2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compaq_Portable&#xD;&#xA;[3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osborne_1&#xD;&#xA;[4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netbook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="532" RevisionGUID="27fb172f-ca94-4d8c-a7b5-1f6014755c0c" CreationDate="2016-03-08T23:05:02.247" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 48 characters in body" Text="Use this tag when requesting information about laptops or notebook computers. These devices have an integrated hardware keyboard and screen. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2216" RevisionGUID="399e8d3e-6af1-442f-9d62-40a6f12c4df3" CreationDate="2016-03-09T07:34:43.537" UserId="1979" Comment="Added port requirements and budget." Text="I have a bunch of external hard drives, and I'm getting a bit tired of connecting and disconnecting them all the time - not to mention the noise. I'd like to find a way to connect them to my network instead so they can sit in a cabinet and stay out of my way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything that could do that? Ideally wired, but wifi will do at a pinch. If it can take multiple drives, that'd be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not looking for a specific number of ports; four would be a good balance, twelve would be great if I find one that doesn't cost too much, but one would be fine too. No particular features or requirements in mind; I just want to be able to have some drives plugged in in another room so I can access them over the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget would be ideally below 1,000 SEK, but there's some leeway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2221" RevisionGUID="095a97b2-8496-4de0-a165-baff5d411d34" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:57:58.103" UserId="1987" Comment="deleted 147 characters in body" Text="I recently got a new (to me) computer. It was [a workhorse computer][1] from a few years ago. I'm trying to rig it up to work with an SSD in its new life with me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the motherboard has SATA II and PCIe x4 slots available. I purchased a [SAMSUNG 850 EVO M.2 SATA III][2] drive  which I was hoping would wrok but because of my confusion on how the M.2 spec works the drive I purchased is not directly compatible with my motherboard. I was assuming I could plug it into a PCIe slot (obviously that was wrong), then I was hoping I could get a PCIe to M.2 adapter but because this particular drive is M.2/SATA which means if I get an adapter I'd have to plug it in to a SATA II port which is what I was hoping to avoid is the first place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something I can buy that can make use of the drive I purchased while not compromising speed?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c01709707&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K3UA7510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="2be4de3f-ef9f-46d3-ba64-164956987f6d" CreationDate="2016-03-09T16:18:50.287" UserId="1960" Comment="18" />
  <row Id="8322" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="e6b438dc-fb5b-4505-a497-aff1895bbf2e" CreationDate="2016-03-09T16:22:22.520" UserId="1960" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $150(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2240" RevisionGUID="d6645504-35da-48b7-b274-e7b3239df405" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:25:29.047" UserId="595" Text="I don't believe there are any phones with your specifications under $199. Here is my recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Honor 5X][1] - $199  &#xD;&#xA;- Android 5.1  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual camera (13MP back)  &#xD;&#xA;- 2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with both AT&amp;T and T-Mobile sim cards (This also means StraightTalk)  &#xD;&#xA;- Full 1080p HD 5.5&quot; multitouch screen  &#xD;&#xA;- Easily [rootable][2] (unlockable bootloader)  &#xD;&#xA;- MicroSD card slot  &#xD;&#xA;- 16GB internal storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Honor-5X-Metal-Unlocked-Smartphone/dp/B019O8YWR0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.xda-developers.com/honor-5x/development/root-kiw-l24-usa-kiwi-t3305190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="4214866f-789f-4cfd-833d-5894db3a9be9" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:12:06.343" UserId="1994" Text="- fan sound drives me crazy&#xD;&#xA;- i want linux, no windows, no chromeos. and i do not need games nor 3d, probably console tty only.&#xD;&#xA;- display smaller than 13&quot; are too small&#xD;&#xA;- intel has better support by linux than arm, tegra&#xD;&#xA;- if i have no cpu-intense-ambitions, why shouldn't it be CHEAP lets say &lt;= 250$ (some chromebook for example confirmed to be easily converted to linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so criteria i am searching are again:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. fanless &#xD;&#xA; 2. linux&#xD;&#xA; 3. &amp;gt;=13&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 4. intel&#xD;&#xA; 5. cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why i can not found it for whole last year. Asus UX305 is ideal, only not (5) cheap (still ~600$).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommends something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="4214866f-789f-4cfd-833d-5894db3a9be9" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:12:06.343" UserId="1994" Text="cheapest fanless linux intel laptop &gt;=13 inches" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="4214866f-789f-4cfd-833d-5894db3a9be9" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:12:06.343" UserId="1994" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="52c8aafd-6229-495f-aa6a-eec8a110fbf1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T00:36:30.773" UserId="1" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title; edited tags" Text="- Fan sound drives me crazy&#xD;&#xA;- I want Linux, not Windows or ChromeOS. I do not need games nor 3D, probably console tty only.&#xD;&#xA;- Displays smaller than 13&quot; are too small&#xD;&#xA;- Intel has better Linux support than ARM or Tegra&#xD;&#xA;- If I have no CPU-intense ambitions, why shouldn't it be **cheap** - let's say &lt;= $250 (some Chromebooks, for example, are confirmed to be easily converted to Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The criteria I am searching for are, again:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. fanless &#xD;&#xA; 2. Linux&#xD;&#xA; 3. \&gt;= 13&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 4. Intel&#xD;&#xA; 5. cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched for the past year and couldn't find anything. The Asus UX305 is ideal, only not cheap (still ~$600).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="52c8aafd-6229-495f-aa6a-eec8a110fbf1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T00:36:30.773" UserId="1" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title; edited tags" Text="Cheapest fanless Linux Intel laptop with a display 13 inches or larger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="52c8aafd-6229-495f-aa6a-eec8a110fbf1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T00:36:30.773" UserId="1" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title; edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2243" RevisionGUID="9dcb7ff3-0165-49ac-8354-7a676841b9dc" CreationDate="2016-03-10T00:53:10.380" UserId="415" Text="You could buy a fanless chromebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://prodct.info/chromebooks/#f&amp;atom&amp;cel1&amp;cel2&amp;cel5&amp;cel4&amp;cel3&amp;cel6&amp;cel7&amp;i3&amp;i5&amp;i7&amp;fanless&amp;scr13&amp;scr14&amp;scr15&amp;book&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;install linux yourself&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.networkworld.com/article/2867025/opensource-subnet/3-ways-to-run-normal-linux-on-a-chromebook.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It shouldn't be that difficult if you have much Linux experience, which you probably do if you only want it for the command line. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="096cf226-fa33-4c11-8bda-811a02f170cc" CreationDate="2016-03-10T03:03:51.517" UserId="1994" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="- Fan sound drives me crazy&#xD;&#xA;- I want Linux, not Windows nor ChromeOS. I do not need games nor 3D, probably console tty only.&#xD;&#xA;- Displays smaller than 13&quot; are too small&#xD;&#xA;- Intel has better Linux support than ARM or Tegra&#xD;&#xA;- If I have no CPU-intense ambitions, why shouldn't it be **cheap** - let's say &lt;= $250 (some Chromebooks, for example, are confirmed to be easily converted to Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The criteria I am searching for are, again:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. fanless &#xD;&#xA; 2. Linux&#xD;&#xA; 3. \&gt;= 13&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 4. Intel&#xD;&#xA; 5. cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched for the past year and couldn't find anything. The Asus UX305 is ideal, only not cheap (still ~$600).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2242" RevisionGUID="835b69a7-dfd8-45b4-b7fc-02ac8b939be0" CreationDate="2016-03-10T03:19:07.407" UserId="1994" Comment="added 194 characters in body" Text="- Fan sound drives me crazy&#xD;&#xA;- I want Linux, not Windows nor ChromeOS. I do not need games nor 3D, probably console tty only.&#xD;&#xA;- Displays smaller than 13&quot; are too small&#xD;&#xA;- Intel has better Linux support than ARM or Tegra&#xD;&#xA;- If I have no CPU-intense ambitions, why shouldn't it be **cheap** - let's say &lt;= $250 (some Chromebooks, for example, are confirmed to be easily converted to Linux, but most models do not have seabios from the box and requires [model-specific][1] not-officially-supported hacking)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The criteria I am searching for are, again:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. fanless &#xD;&#xA; 2. Linux&#xD;&#xA; 3. \&gt;= 13&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 4. Intel&#xD;&#xA; 5. cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched for the past year and couldn't find anything. The Asus UX305 is ideal, only not cheap (still ~$600).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Chrome_OS_devices/Chromebook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2244" RevisionGUID="c663e393-de96-4a05-acf5-eb9180518bf7" CreationDate="2016-03-10T03:30:37.447" UserId="1996" Text="I find this one closet to your requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[AT&amp;T GoPhone - ZTE Zmax 2 4G with 16GB Memory No-Contract Cell Phone - Black][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.2GHz processor with 2GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;Delivers outstanding overall performance for opening and running applications, flipping through menus, running home screens and more.&#xD;&#xA;Android 5.1 Lollipop OS&#xD;&#xA;New colors and typography, new ways to control when and how you receive messages, and new security features, including Android Smart Lock, which secures your phone by pairing it with a trusted smartwatch or other device.&#xD;&#xA;5.5&quot; touch-screen display&#xD;&#xA;Large screen makes it easy to navigate pages and watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;8.0MP rear-facing camera&#xD;&#xA;Snap photos of memorable moments while you're on the go. Also includes a 2.0MP front-facing camera for video chatting and taking selfies.&#xD;&#xA;16GB internal memory&#xD;&#xA;Offers plenty of storage space for music, photos, contacts and more.&#xD;&#xA;Use your smartphone as a mobile hotspot&#xD;&#xA;Share your 4G data connection with other compatible wireless devices&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/at-t-gophone-zte-zmax-2-4g-with-16gb-memory-no-contract-cell-phone-black/4421800.p?id=1219745390060&amp;skuId=4421800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2245" RevisionGUID="6fd9d969-3746-4028-b275-e58e9a26d50f" CreationDate="2016-03-10T03:34:21.543" UserId="1996" Text="addonics has introduced its Network Attached Storage (NAS) adapter, which is a $55 device that lets you plug a USB-powered external drive in one end and then connect an Ethernet cable to the other end that runs to your router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.zdnet.com/article/turn-external-hard-drives-into-network-storage-via-usb-with-addonics-nas-adapter/#!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.addonics.com/products/nas40esu.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2246" RevisionGUID="a43bee18-31ea-46b9-bcdb-e6c6162542b5" CreationDate="2016-03-10T07:21:45.530" UserId="1366" Text="After checking specification of your motherboard (from this [link][1]) I checked that you have one PCI-E connector which will support PCI-E Solid State Drive.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would reccommend this SSD's:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB (with HHHL Adapter)][3] -&gt; [$180 on newegg.com][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Plextor Lite on M6e 256GB][5] -&gt; [$190 on Amazon.com][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I would with Plextor but both SSD's are similar quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetHTML.aspx?docname=c04111619&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bj7aP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/ssd/shpm2280p2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104544&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.goplextor.com/Product/Detail/M6e%28A%29_Black_Edition#/Spec&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Plextor-Black-Series-Internal-PX-256M6e-BK/dp/B00TRVRB0A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2247" RevisionGUID="2842d697-1298-4ccf-8802-bda283ebac3e" CreationDate="2016-03-10T08:25:08.033" UserId="1807" Text="It seems that the best way to find a compatible Samsung TV is to check the firmware version on the Samsung Support pages. You can check that the downloadable firmware for that TV set is above 1400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a reasonable answer to this question, we found this device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Samsung UE32J5550 80 cm**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a price of **327 Euros** at the time of writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small enough to fit on my desk, and cheap enough to please the boss." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2246" RevisionGUID="83bee847-fcdf-40bc-8151-84707ca5f00d" CreationDate="2016-03-10T08:56:52.387" UserId="1366" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8349" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2246" RevisionGUID="e7f563fe-17ae-41c7-9220-caec865df912" CreationDate="2016-03-10T09:03:07.513" UserId="1366" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2246" RevisionGUID="d8e03d81-ece1-4f10-8b20-6ad814adc84b" CreationDate="2016-03-10T09:06:06.030" UserId="1366" Comment="added 299 characters in body" Text="After checking specification of your motherboard (from this [link][1]) I checked that you have one PCI-E connector which will support PCI-E Solid State Drive.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two possible solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Buy M2 to PCIe adapter:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Addonics M.2 PCIe SSD Adapter X110][3] / [$30 in their shop][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Buy new SSD drive:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB (with HHHL Adapter)][5] -&gt; [$180 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - [Plextor Lite on M6e 256GB][7] -&gt; [$190 on Amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would reccommend to buy Addonics adapter it is cheaper and has good reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetHTML.aspx?docname=c04111619&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bj7aP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.legitreviews.com/addonics-m-2-pcie-ssd-adapter-x110-review_165632&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.shopaddonics.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=AD2M2S-PX4&amp;eq=&amp;Tp=&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/ssd/shpm2280p2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104544&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.goplextor.com/Product/Detail/M6e%28A%29_Black_Edition#/Spec&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Plextor-Black-Series-Internal-PX-256M6e-BK/dp/B00TRVRB0A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="b8b7fa4f-c888-4e04-a3b3-7b185078698c" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:33:34.067" UserId="1997" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as offer USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 19V, so it works very well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare and also to power a fan and an LED TV which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but struggles to fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm looking for a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that stops output voltage exceeding 19 volts (but allows output between 12 volts and 18 volts?). Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing, but fixed at 18V or 19V would be fine, too (maybe even 15V or 16V at a push).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or separate bulky heavy duty voltage regulator." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="b8b7fa4f-c888-4e04-a3b3-7b185078698c" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:33:34.067" UserId="1997" Text="100W+ solar panel with built-in 18V or 19V output voltage control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="b8b7fa4f-c888-4e04-a3b3-7b185078698c" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:33:34.067" UserId="1997" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="c32b018b-82d5-4aa7-9a08-41a884773ef5" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:40:37.617" UserId="1997" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 19V, so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare and also to occasionally power a fan and an LED TV which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but struggles to fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm looking for a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 19 volts, but allows output between 12 volts and 18 volts? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), but voltage fixed at 18V or 19V would be fine, too (maybe even 15V or 16V would work at a push). I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or separate bulky heavy duty voltage regulator." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="8ba60e96-1357-4fd8-9f46-ec419106e51d" CreationDate="2016-03-10T11:08:46.470" UserId="1997" Comment="edited title" Text="100W+ solar panel with built-in 18V or 19V output voltage cap" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="ccddcdb7-23d7-4f58-b12c-a27f8a384ac8" CreationDate="2016-03-10T13:16:46.820" UserId="1960" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="ccddcdb7-23d7-4f58-b12c-a27f8a384ac8" CreationDate="2016-03-10T13:16:46.820" UserId="1960" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="Android phone under $180 with great specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="7bcdf2a9-f364-439f-a678-df88e315f000" CreationDate="2016-03-10T14:35:06.187" UserId="164" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="I do quite a bit of camping and backpacking, so I would find a portable solar cell to power my smartphone and laptop quite useful. I would like the solar cell to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have both 19 volt and 12 volt output&#xD;&#xA; - Have 2.4 amp USB&#xD;&#xA; - Weigh less than 10 pounds&#xD;&#xA; - Fold in a way that makes it fit into a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Cost under $200- this is the maximum I am willing to spend- no budging&#xD;&#xA; - I would also appreciate it supporting a 90 watt power cord like [this][1] one, as I would rather not buy another adapter.&#xD;&#xA; - **Optional**: Have an on-board battery of over 10000 MAh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dell-Computer-469-4033-90w-Ac-Adapter-W-6.56-Pwr-Pc-For-Inspiron-lat-vos-xps-Laptop/41790117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="e26a7637-61ea-416c-ba1c-6548658ca484" CreationDate="2016-03-10T15:51:48.450" UserId="1960" Comment="added 316 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I have noticed that I can get a used(risking that it doesn't last or work) Galaxy note 3 on ebay for $148-180. I will also give bounty that put's up a good argument on weather I should get one of the new phones mentioned above, the Galaxy Note 3, or another phone used or new of your choice that can compare.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2251" RevisionGUID="3c007c56-c0d2-4ff6-bbb5-51dd6820ea2d" CreationDate="2016-03-11T03:14:15.697" UserId="2001" Text="One of the previous answers mentioned the G.Skill KM780 keyboard, and the KM780R RGB is now available for preorder, unless Amazon is lying to us:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186W6PGQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687502&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B01798Y2UO&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1VYZ6X2KSNEMJWWP5XVB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, there is now a Corsair Strafe RGB keyboard available in Cherry MX Blue switches, although it is a bit overpriced and has a few reviews saying the switches are a bit off:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014W1YLAM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B014W1YRC4&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0SWD0AMGJGNMP02JFR3F&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the Poseidon Z RGB keyboard, which is relatively cheap for an RGB keyboard. This keyboard does NOT have genuine Cherry MX switches (Kalih Blue), and I would only buy this as a last option, because some complain about the switches breaking after awhile of use. Unfortunantly I cannot post more than two links because I do not have enough reputation, but this keyboard can be found on Amazon and at Best Buy (in-store too) relatively easily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2252" RevisionGUID="f046547c-7d62-422d-8b64-45c6c435d830" CreationDate="2016-03-11T03:46:36.707" UserId="1369" Text="I'll keep this as short and as on point as possible:  &#xD;&#xA;Get the [**Samsung Galaxy S4**](http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s4_cdma-5388.php) because it is a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under&#xD;&#xA;&gt; $180(may go a little over).    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically $130-180 unlocked second hand, [$150 on a quick amazon search for Straight Talk](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-S4-STRAIGHT-TALK/dp/B013IOLDA0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457662545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Samsung+Galaxy+s4+straight+talk). [New for $208](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Unlocked-Smartphone-Black/dp/B00S3FEOAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457666668&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samsung+galaxy+s4+straight+talk).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently [$150 new at Walmart for **Verizon**. ](http://www.walmart.com/ip/Verizon-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Prepaid-Smartphone/47090196) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It satisfies all of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -  Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -  Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) - *plenty of help available for this popular phone* [e.g. xda developers forums](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2380325)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   compatible with Straight Talk &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and also **has super-amoled screen**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously hard to say what 6 hours non-stop use is, but according to specs: stand-by up to 350 hrs (3G), talk time up to 11 hrs (3G) and music play up to 69 hrs. It does have a **removable battery** so for an $10-15 extra you can get an official Samsung battery and effectively double the battery life. You're probably better off getting an **official Samsung Adaptive Fast Charger** in a bricks and mortar store.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;Don't really understand what you mean by&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2251" RevisionGUID="4011ce7d-9757-415a-98b1-5bbaea19ed2a" CreationDate="2016-03-11T06:11:32.863" UserId="155" Comment="inline links" Text="One of the previous answers mentioned the G.Skill KM780 keyboard, and the [KM780R RGB](http://amzn.com/B0186W6PGQ) is now available for preorder, unless Amazon is lying to us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, there is now a [Corsair Strafe RGB](http://amzn.com/B014W1YLAM) keyboard available in Cherry MX Blue switches, although it is a bit overpriced and has a few reviews saying the switches are a bit off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the Poseidon Z RGB keyboard, which is relatively cheap for an RGB keyboard. This keyboard does NOT have genuine Cherry MX switches (Kalih Blue), and I would only buy this as a last option, because some complain about the switches breaking after awhile of use. Unfortunantly I cannot post more than two links because I do not have enough reputation, but this keyboard can be found on Amazon and at Best Buy (in-store too) relatively easily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2246" RevisionGUID="5520e4f2-529e-48c4-bd76-d1c086a563ac" CreationDate="2016-03-11T07:06:55.133" UserId="1366" Comment="added 516 characters in body" Text="After checking specification of your motherboard (from this [link][1]) I checked that you have one PCI-E connector which will support PCI-E Solid State Drive.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two possible solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Buy M2 to PCIe adapter:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Addonics M.2 PCIe SSD Adapter X110][3] / [$30 in their shop][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Buy new SSD drive:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB (with HHHL Adapter)][5] -&gt; [$180 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - [Plextor Lite on M6e 256GB][7] -&gt; [$190 on Amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would reccommend to buy Addonics adapter it is cheaper and has good reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you will mount only one SSD you won't need additional power and sata cable (screen below):&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;Digging deeper I found two other Addonics adapters which have slot for only one SSD drive and no additional connectors (but only one can fit your SSD, because second one can only fit up to 80 mm M2 cards):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ADM2NVMPX4][10] $19 on their website&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetHTML.aspx?docname=c04111619&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bj7aP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.legitreviews.com/addonics-m-2-pcie-ssd-adapter-x110-review_165632&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.shopaddonics.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=AD2M2S-PX4&amp;eq=&amp;Tp=&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/ssd/shpm2280p2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104544&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.goplextor.com/Product/Detail/M6e%28A%29_Black_Edition#/Spec&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Plextor-Black-Series-Internal-PX-256M6e-BK/dp/B00TRVRB0A&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DZfxn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.addonics.com/products/adm2nvmpx4.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="5f5d8513-9a94-4881-aa5a-ec18fdf161bf" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:19:20.963" UserId="1189" Comment="edited body" Text="At home, I frequently move between two rooms with my OS X laptop. I would like to get two wireless speakers and place one in each room, to avoid the hassle of having to connect them via Aux Line-in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Critical features:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Wireless speakers I am looking for **should be able to source computer audio**, and let me select where to play it at any time:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Play one of the speakers*, or...&#xD;&#xA;- *Both speakers at the same time*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, I would like them to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support *AirPlay streaming* from iOS devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional features:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional, but not critical:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support direct streaming from services like Spotify, Soundcloud&#xD;&#xA;* Allow Aux Line-In or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;* Manufacturer also provides &quot;bridge&quot; unit that can connect ordinary line-in speakers to the Wi-Fi system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricing:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Up to 450 USD per speaker, but preferably lower.&#xD;&#xA;Audio quality should be **good** but doesn't need to be ***Hi-Fi great*** (and thus very expensive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the above criteria, I'm assuming that Bluetooth speakers are not effective, because I need to be able to move around with the laptop and still have connectivity. Also, there is a thick wall between the two rooms so they wouldn't be able to communicate with each other via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is if you could recommend some Wi-Fi speakers that meet these critera – if there are any?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="d4ae7466-8dc9-44df-be7e-8dcc88f6747f" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:22:10.180" UserId="1189" Comment="19" />
  <row Id="8376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2254" RevisionGUID="1aefac03-a262-4bd9-8051-907fc06813c6" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:44:26.090" UserId="1800" Text="I am considering purchasing a new gaming laptop. After some initial research, I have narrowed the field down to two candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Asus ROG G752VT][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 MHz SDRAM&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 7200RPM HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Medion Erazer X7843][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; -  16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; -  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M&#xD;&#xA; -  1TB HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In spite of the fact that, on paper, the Medion is the more powerful of the two, they are roughly equivalent in price. This immediately makes me suspicious. Medion is a German brand which is sometimes sold in discount supermarkets. It's based on MSI &quot;Barebones&quot;, about which I know nothing. Being German, it's hard to find reliable reports in English of its reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was originally going to go for the Asus, but looking at the &quot;recommended&quot; specifications for some recent games it seemed that the desktop GTX 770 is a common fixture. Checking benchmark lists, it appears that the GTX 970M rates about 10% less power than the GTX 770, whereas the GTX 980M rates about 10% more. That made me feel it might be a worthwhile upgrade and I went looking for a system I could afford with the 980M, and the Medion is the only one I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To lay out my concerns in plain language, I'm hoping someone can advise me on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Whether I need to care about being 10% under the &quot;recommended&quot; specs for games (i.e. does &quot;recommended&quot; mean good-to-average, or does it mean all settings cranked up to max?)&#xD;&#xA; - Whether Medion is a reliable brand?&#xD;&#xA; - Whether there are any signs or information available on whether cheaper build components in the Medion might hold back performance (i.e. poor motherboard etc making overall performance more in line with the Asus in spite of the better graphics card. Also, note that the Medion doesn't break down the quality of its RAM or HDD like Asus does)?&#xD;&#xA; - Similarly, whether there are &quot;soft&quot; components in the Medion like sound, screen and connectivity that might lead to a comparatively poor user experience?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, do I really need a 980M, and is the Medion really as good value as it seems to be?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.asus.com/us/item/201510AM090006012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.medion.com/gb/shop/gaming-pcs-laptops-erazer-x7843-md99557-130019705.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2254" RevisionGUID="1aefac03-a262-4bd9-8051-907fc06813c6" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:44:26.090" UserId="1800" Text="Gaming laptops: Asus ROG G752VT vs Medion Erazer X7843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2254" RevisionGUID="1aefac03-a262-4bd9-8051-907fc06813c6" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:44:26.090" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2255" RevisionGUID="2b53d859-a8a6-4393-9be9-7976a2a52e33" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:55:05.250" UserId="1618" Text="There's a test of the Medion on this site:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Medion-Erazer-X7843-Notebook.154482.0.html][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just use Google Translate or similar and you'll see that it is even tested against the G752VT. Nobody can tell you whether one thing is worth it or not, but the test gives you pretty much all the information you need to make your own decision (screen, noise, temperatures etc. are all in the test)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: The site says that the screen is good, the performance is very high, the input devices are &quot;proper&quot; (my German isn't great, so that is the best translation I can give) and the negatives are that the CPU and GPU are soldered on and that the laptop throttles (turns down clocks/performance) on battery power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Medion-Erazer-X7843-Notebook.154482.0.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="1e149ba4-a84a-4856-affe-a3f63864e81d" CreationDate="2016-03-11T10:13:23.970" UserId="1997" Comment="added 183 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 19V, so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery and also to occasionally power a fan and an LED TV which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but struggles to fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 19 volts, but allows output between 12 volts and 18 volts? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), but voltage fixed at 18V or 19V would be fine, too. I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or separate bulky heavy duty voltage regulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since this batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="d54d0831-2d42-4178-a1a3-ecdde7552c6c" CreationDate="2016-03-11T10:20:33.520" UserId="1997" Comment="added 183 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 19V, so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery and also to occasionally power a fan and an LED TV which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but struggles to fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 19 volts, but allows output between 12 volts and 18 volts?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2256" RevisionGUID="8b531bdb-6b61-4ded-b416-170628c9f0b6" CreationDate="2016-03-11T11:46:33.970" UserId="531" Text="I'll have to update my answer with a link when I have better internet access but the hp stream 13 might be a good option.&#xA;&#xA;I've run fedora on the older, bay trail 11 inch model and it works out of the box. You may need to turn off secure boot for some distros. Otherwise? Dual core celeron processor, mine was bay trail but there's a newer model. Fanless and entirely silent, roughly 6 hour battery life. 32gb emmc for storage and it's entirely silent.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2254" RevisionGUID="4218c4a7-30d5-4d12-aea7-14f3ecd3c148" CreationDate="2016-03-11T15:41:13.323" UserId="1800" Comment="added 380 characters in body" Text="I am considering purchasing a new gaming laptop. After some initial research, I have narrowed the field down to two candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Asus ROG G752VT][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 MHz SDRAM&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 7200RPM HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Medion Erazer X7843][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; -  16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; -  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M&#xD;&#xA; -  1TB HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In spite of the fact that, on paper, the Medion is the more powerful of the two, they are roughly equivalent in price. This immediately makes me suspicious. Medion is a German brand which is sometimes sold in discount supermarkets. It's based on MSI &quot;Barebones&quot;, about which I know nothing. Being German, it's hard to find reliable reports in English of its reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was originally going to go for the Asus, but looking at the &quot;recommended&quot; specifications for some recent games it seemed that the desktop GTX 770 is a common fixture. Checking benchmark lists, it appears that the GTX 970M rates about 10% less power than the GTX 770, whereas the GTX 980M rates about 10% more. That made me feel it might be a worthwhile upgrade and I went looking for a system I could afford with the 980M, and the Medion is the only one I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To lay out my concerns in plain language, I'm hoping someone can advise me on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Whether I need to care about being 10% under the &quot;recommended&quot; specs for games (i.e. does &quot;recommended&quot; mean good-to-average, or does it mean all settings cranked up to max?)&#xD;&#xA; - Whether Medion is a reliable brand?&#xD;&#xA; - Whether there are any signs or information available on whether cheaper build components in the Medion might hold back performance (i.e. poor motherboard etc making overall performance more in line with the Asus in spite of the better graphics card. Also, note that the Medion doesn't break down the quality of its RAM or HDD like Asus does)?&#xD;&#xA; - Similarly, whether there are &quot;soft&quot; components in the Medion like sound, screen and connectivity that might lead to a comparatively poor user experience?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, do I really need a 980M, and is the Medion really as good value as it seems to be?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Can someone please explain why this question merits downvotes? This is going to get my account banned from posting questions, which is fair enough since I have clearly misunderstood what this SE site is about. However, if it's not for asking direct comparisons between two pieces of hardware, and which is likely to be better, I'm at a loss to appreciate what it is for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, here is a similar question which seems to be well recieved:&#xD;&#xA;http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/496/msi-stealth-pro-072-vs-asus-g751jy-dh71&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.asus.com/us/item/201510AM090006012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.medion.com/gb/shop/gaming-pcs-laptops-erazer-x7843-md99557-130019705.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2257" RevisionGUID="6396ec32-bb3b-4875-917c-9a2cb5c8c244" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:36:29.723" UserId="1994" Text="Just to add one possibility, that i found after posting this question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ideal laptop would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- device called [nexdock][1]&#xD;&#xA;- combined with some [IntelStick][2] / raspberry / beagleboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but there was similar startup projects before, and they did not succeeded, hope that nexdock will (but it is critical, current status 52% only one month left). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/nexdock-the-world-s-most-affordable-laptop--2#/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Compute-Stick-Windows-BOXSTCK1A32WFCR/dp/B00UZ3CYE2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="2254" RevisionGUID="ab5299c0-b67d-4b85-9d31-a1716760dccd" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:47:59.950" UserId="57" Comment="Rollback to [1aefac03-a262-4bd9-8051-907fc06813c6]" Text="I am considering purchasing a new gaming laptop. After some initial research, I have narrowed the field down to two candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Asus ROG G752VT][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 MHz SDRAM&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 7200RPM HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The [Medion Erazer X7843][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  i7 6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA; -  16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; -  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M&#xD;&#xA; -  1TB HDD + 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In spite of the fact that, on paper, the Medion is the more powerful of the two, they are roughly equivalent in price. This immediately makes me suspicious. Medion is a German brand which is sometimes sold in discount supermarkets. It's based on MSI &quot;Barebones&quot;, about which I know nothing. Being German, it's hard to find reliable reports in English of its reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was originally going to go for the Asus, but looking at the &quot;recommended&quot; specifications for some recent games it seemed that the desktop GTX 770 is a common fixture. Checking benchmark lists, it appears that the GTX 970M rates about 10% less power than the GTX 770, whereas the GTX 980M rates about 10% more. That made me feel it might be a worthwhile upgrade and I went looking for a system I could afford with the 980M, and the Medion is the only one I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To lay out my concerns in plain language, I'm hoping someone can advise me on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Whether I need to care about being 10% under the &quot;recommended&quot; specs for games (i.e. does &quot;recommended&quot; mean good-to-average, or does it mean all settings cranked up to max?)&#xD;&#xA; - Whether Medion is a reliable brand?&#xD;&#xA; - Whether there are any signs or information available on whether cheaper build components in the Medion might hold back performance (i.e. poor motherboard etc making overall performance more in line with the Asus in spite of the better graphics card. Also, note that the Medion doesn't break down the quality of its RAM or HDD like Asus does)?&#xD;&#xA; - Similarly, whether there are &quot;soft&quot; components in the Medion like sound, screen and connectivity that might lead to a comparatively poor user experience?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, do I really need a 980M, and is the Medion really as good value as it seems to be?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.asus.com/us/item/201510AM090006012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.medion.com/gb/shop/gaming-pcs-laptops-erazer-x7843-md99557-130019705.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2257" RevisionGUID="0f429c79-46ee-421c-8ae1-0a0c395735d7" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:48:58.803" UserId="1994" Comment="intel stick link to ubuntu, atom version" Text="Just to add one possibility, that i found after posting this question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ideal laptop would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- device called [nexdock][1]&#xD;&#xA;- combined with some [IntelStick][2] / raspberry / beagleboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but there was similar startup projects before, and they did not succeeded, hope that nexdock will (but it is critical, current status 52% only one month left). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/nexdock-the-world-s-most-affordable-laptop--2#/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1138082-REG/intel_boxstck1a8lfcr_compute_stick_atom_1gb_8gb_ssd_linux.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2244" RevisionGUID="02713305-225b-4545-b261-72d07a0a7b3c" CreationDate="2016-03-12T13:57:41.590" UserId="203" Comment="added 227 characters in body" Text="I find this one fits most of your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[AT&amp;T GoPhone - ZTE Zmax 2 4G with 16GB Memory No-Contract Cell Phone - Black ($99.99 + free shipping @ best buy)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##1.2GHz processor with 2GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;(Snapdragon 410, 4 x A53 @ 1.2 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Delivers outstanding overall performance for opening and running applications, flipping through menus, running home screens and more.&#xD;&#xA;##Android 5.1 Lollipop OS&#xD;&#xA;New colors and typography, new ways to control when and how you receive messages, and new security features, including Android Smart Lock, which secures your phone by pairing it with a trusted smartwatch or other device.&#xD;&#xA;##5.5&quot; touch-screen display&#xD;&#xA;(720p LCD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Large screen makes it easy to navigate pages and watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;##8.0MP rear-facing camera&#xD;&#xA;Snap photos of memorable moments while you're on the go. Also includes a 2.0MP front-facing camera for video chatting and taking selfies.&#xD;&#xA;##16GB internal memory&#xD;&#xA;Offers plenty of storage space for music, photos, contacts and more.&#xD;&#xA;##Use your smartphone as a mobile hotspot&#xD;&#xA;Share your 4G data connection with other compatible wireless devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##SD card&#xD;&#xA;microSD, up to 64 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[More specs at GSMArena][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/at-t-gophone-zte-zmax-2-4g-with-16gb-memory-no-contract-cell-phone-black/4421800.p?id=1219745390060&amp;skuId=4421800&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/zte_zmax_2-7572.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2203" RevisionGUID="ea1f6209-36b4-4416-bf6b-7492644fb860" CreationDate="2016-03-12T20:42:17.293" UserId="155" Comment="clarified currency" Text="I need a keyboard and a mouse. They should run on Bluetooth, but be chargeable via USB as well, if that's possible? Preferable both in one go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price limit: INR 1000/-.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bluetooth essential.&#xD;&#xA;Price essential.&#xD;&#xA;Chargeable desirable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2243" RevisionGUID="f8aa63d5-72ba-4ed1-969c-27341ffdc239" CreationDate="2016-03-12T20:47:05.147" UserId="155" Comment="inline links" Text="You could buy a [fanless Chromebook][1] and [install linux yourself][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It shouldn't be that difficult if you have much Linux experience, which you probably do if you only want it for the command line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://prodct.info/chromebooks/#f&amp;atom&amp;cel1&amp;cel2&amp;cel5&amp;cel4&amp;cel3&amp;cel6&amp;cel7&amp;i3&amp;i5&amp;i7&amp;fanless&amp;scr13&amp;scr14&amp;scr15&amp;book&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2]:http://www.networkworld.com/article/2867025/opensource-subnet/3-ways-to-run-normal-linux-on-a-chromebook.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2256" RevisionGUID="8abd4165-4ac9-45bb-85b7-b121347612ee" CreationDate="2016-03-12T20:58:08.010" UserId="155" Comment="added link; clarified feature list" Text="The [HP Stream 13](http://amzn.com/B00O65HZKS) might be a good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've run Fedora on the older, bay trail 11-inch model and it works out of the box. You may need to turn off secure boot for some distros. Otherwise? Dual core Celeron processor (mine was bay trail but there's a newer model), fanless, roughly 6-hour battery life, 32GB eMMC for storage, and it's entirely silent.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2262" RevisionGUID="f3fbd1bb-b4ea-410a-b982-de28c3e7763d" CreationDate="2016-03-13T01:30:05.377" UserId="48" Text="Have you considered biometric USB drives, such as the Imation Defender F200 Biometric, it may be a little slow, but supports passwords, fingerprint scanning, or both. There is a review of it: [Imation Defender F200 Biometric Flash Drive Review: Secure but Slow][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or there is the Iron Key Personal D200, which does not specifically have a password enabled write protect, but it is pretty damn secure, nevertheless. Here is a, somewhat out of date, review: [IronKey Personal D200][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, have you seen [George Bailey][3]'s [answer][4] to [Is there such thing as a password enforced write protected flash drive?][5]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; (The write protect switch on the model drive I have used is discrete like a reset button, you need to stick a pen or something into the slot in order to reach the switch and flip it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The best solution I have so far - that still satisfies the requirement that no malicious files be downloaded by the user - is to get a flash drive that has a physical write protect switch, and apply a coating that will harden. (similar coats are on the market for covering tool handles, such as wrenches)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If the hacker has physical access, I see this setup as having 2 possible outcomes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - the tamper would be evident to the user (broken seal), or&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - after tamper is complete, a new coat of similar color would have to be applied by the hacker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again while not password protected, it does get around the issue that you mention in your comment *hardware switch is not good because everybody could turn it on or off*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/254757/imation_defender_f200_biometric_flash_drive_review_secure_but_slow.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://secure-usb-drive-review.toptenreviews.com/ironkey-personal-d200-review.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://security.stackexchange.com/users/764/george-bailey&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive#answer-15635&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2263" RevisionGUID="455994a4-748d-4c0b-ac54-17ae1bf55e48" CreationDate="2016-03-13T02:11:01.357" UserId="2014" Text="And no builtin microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...Or at least with a webcam + mic which can be easily removed by someone with the right screwdriver and a dream.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other requirements include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price point is $\le$ $1,500&#xD;&#xA;- durable; not covered in thin plastic that rattles when you shake it (currently I'm using an X1 carbon, and that feels pretty solid).&#xD;&#xA;- at least 2 USB ports, with at least one of them being USB 3. 3 USB ports with at least 2 being USB 3 would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;- at least one, and at most two, of the following video ports (in order of highest to lowest preference):&#xD;&#xA;  - HDMI&#xD;&#xA;  - VGA&#xD;&#xA;  - DVI&#xD;&#xA;  - MiniDP&#xD;&#xA;- no touchscreen; an actual laptop. Not a laptop that wishes it was a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;- a wifi card with a hardware power switch so I can be sure I've disabled the wireless card in hardware and no software / firmware can send / receive wireless packets&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 support&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit x86 processor (probably implied, but still), with support for hardware-accelerated virtualization. An i5 or an i7 would probably do well enough.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 8 GB of RAM, with support for at least 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;- an SSD with $\ge$ 192 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferable, but not required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- an actual Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;- an SD / MicroSD card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a friend of mine who wants to get into development but who hasn't done any yet and doesn't really know much about computers at all. To be honest, aside from knowing what sorts of things a laptop should have (see above specs), I don't really know how to go about finding one, and I don't really keep up to date on what laptops are quichey, or what companies have a good record of producing durable products (or, at least, products with helpful customer service reps and readily-available hardware drivers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I floundered through some Google searches over the last half hour and have reached the conclusion that I'm woefully unqualified to figure out which make and model would make sense, so I'm deferring to the collective wisdom of the Lazyweb." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8409" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2263" RevisionGUID="455994a4-748d-4c0b-ac54-17ae1bf55e48" CreationDate="2016-03-13T02:11:01.357" UserId="2014" Text="Laptop without builtin webcam?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2263" RevisionGUID="455994a4-748d-4c0b-ac54-17ae1bf55e48" CreationDate="2016-03-13T02:11:01.357" UserId="2014" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8411" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2263" RevisionGUID="0d0786e7-b70d-4c15-a660-1574e6819d92" CreationDate="2016-03-13T02:22:31.457" UserId="2014" Comment="added 602 characters in body" Text="And no builtin microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...Or at least with a webcam + mic which can be easily removed by someone with the right screwdriver and a dream.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other requirements include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price point is $\le$ $1,500&#xD;&#xA;- screen size $\le$ 14 inches&#xD;&#xA;- durable; not covered in thin plastic that rattles when you shake it (currently I'm using an X1 carbon, and that feels pretty solid).&#xD;&#xA;- at least 2 USB ports, with at least one of them being USB 3. 3 USB ports with at least 2 being USB 3 would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;- at least one, and at most two, of the following video ports (in order of highest to lowest preference):&#xD;&#xA;  - HDMI&#xD;&#xA;  - VGA&#xD;&#xA;  - DVI&#xD;&#xA;  - MiniDP&#xD;&#xA;- no touchscreen; an actual laptop. Not a laptop that wishes it was a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;- a wifi card with a hardware power switch so I can be sure I've disabled the wireless card in hardware and no software / firmware can send / receive wireless packets&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 support&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit x86 processor (probably implied, but still), with support for hardware-accelerated virtualization. An i5 or an i7 would probably do well enough.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 8 GB of RAM, with support for at least 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;- an SSD with $\ge$ 192 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferable, but not required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- an actual Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;- an SD / MicroSD card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a friend of mine who wants to get into development but who hasn't done any yet and doesn't really know much about computers at all. To be honest, aside from knowing what sorts of things a laptop should have (see above specs), I don't really know how to go about finding one, and I don't really keep up to date on what laptops are quichey, or what companies have a good record of producing durable products (or, at least, products with helpful customer service reps and readily-available hardware drivers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, I'm liking my X1 Carbon, but I've had it less than a year, and it actually doesn't meet a number of the above specs. I used to have a Dell that matched far more of those specs, but it kept having random kernel panics (didn't matter what operating system I installed. Pretty sure it wasn't malware-related, but I dunno. I _do_ know the memory was fine). And my brother's old laptop, also a Dell but a different model, also had similar issues. So, I'd like to avoid Dell just in case those two examples weren't a fluke. I've heard good things about Asus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I floundered through some Google searches over the last half hour and have reached the conclusion that I'm woefully unqualified to figure out which make and model would make sense, so I'm deferring to the collective wisdom of the Lazyweb." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2264" RevisionGUID="16cbdbc5-e589-4243-a4d9-823979789712" CreationDate="2016-03-13T04:28:46.243" UserId="1369" Text="The original Hi-Fi Wi-Fi speaker company, [Sonos](https://www.sonos.com), seems to be your fit. They have three product lines that are **fully inter-operable** with each other; in order of increasing quality (and obviously price): [the Play 1, 3 and 5](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-speakers) at $200, $300 and $500 respectively. Despite the $50 budget breach per speaker, I include the Play 5 because it is the only one with an AUX, is the biggest speaker and as I mentioned the speakers are fully inter-operable, so you can mix and match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, all models ***exceed*** your critical requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Critical features:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Wireless speakers I am looking for should be able to source &#xD;&#xA;&gt; computer [*(OSX, iOS, Windows and Android)*](http://www.sonos.com/controller-app) audio, and let me select where to play it at any time:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Play one of the speakers, or...&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Both speakers at the same time *(2 speakers be can linked for great stereo output)*&#xD;&#xA;* *additional speakers can all play at the same time*&#xD;&#xA;* *all speakers can be divided and grouped individually into zones playing **different** music*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, I would like them to:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    [Support AirPlay streaming from iOS devices](https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1241#5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And satisfy almost all optional features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support direct streaming from services like Spotify [(*with Spotify premium-yes*)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTyWKvwrHs0), Soundcloud *(not sure)*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Allow Aux Line-In or equivalent (*Play 5 only*) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Manufacturer also provides [*&quot;bridge&quot;*](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-stereo-components) unit that can connect ordinary line-in speakers to the Wi-Fi system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming a total budget of $900, to stay within it you could get (in order of preference): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. (1 x Play 5) + (1 x Play 3) = $800&#xD;&#xA; 2. (2 x Play 3) = $600&#xD;&#xA; 2. (1 x Play 3) + (1 x Play 1) = $500&#xD;&#xA; 3. (2 x Play 1) = $400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now in contrast to previous Sonos speakers, the latest ones connect directly to your Wi-Fi and don't require the old $50 bridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd go with option 1 myself because it's more than enough my for average (European) place. All the Plays sound amazing, but obviously the Play 5 **really** fills the room. If you want to fill a large house, stretch the budget and get 2 Play 5s. Or buy 1 Play 5, test it and decide on another or a Play 3. The main lady will try, but she'll never keep you down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2263" RevisionGUID="a8ddb321-4cdc-4904-9af1-27c180f7f554" CreationDate="2016-03-13T04:32:37.307" UserId="155" Comment="corrected formatting" Text="And no builtin microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...Or at least with a webcam + mic which can be easily removed by someone with the right screwdriver and a dream.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other requirements include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price point is &lt; $1,500&#xD;&#xA;- screen size &lt; 14 inches&#xD;&#xA;- durable; not covered in thin plastic that rattles when you shake it (currently I'm using an X1 carbon, and that feels pretty solid).&#xD;&#xA;- at least 2 USB ports, with at least one of them being USB 3. 3 USB ports with at least 2 being USB 3 would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;- at least one, and at most two, of the following video ports (in order of highest to lowest preference):&#xD;&#xA;  - HDMI&#xD;&#xA;  - VGA&#xD;&#xA;  - DVI&#xD;&#xA;  - MiniDP&#xD;&#xA;- no touchscreen; an actual laptop. Not a laptop that wishes it was a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;- a wifi card with a hardware power switch so I can be sure I've disabled the wireless card in hardware and no software / firmware can send / receive wireless packets&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 support&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit x86 processor (probably implied, but still), with support for hardware-accelerated virtualization. An i5 or an i7 would probably do well enough.&#xD;&#xA;- at least 8 GB of RAM, with support for at least 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;- an SSD with &gt;192 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferable, but not required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- an actual Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;- an SD / MicroSD card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a friend of mine who wants to get into development but who hasn't done any yet and doesn't really know much about computers at all. To be honest, aside from knowing what sorts of things a laptop should have (see above specs), I don't really know how to go about finding one, and I don't really keep up to date on what laptops are quichey, or what companies have a good record of producing durable products (or, at least, products with helpful customer service reps and readily-available hardware drivers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, I'm liking my X1 Carbon, but I've had it less than a year, and it actually doesn't meet a number of the above specs. I used to have a Dell that matched far more of those specs, but it kept having random kernel panics (didn't matter what operating system I installed. Pretty sure it wasn't malware-related, but I dunno. I _do_ know the memory was fine). And my brother's old laptop, also a Dell but a different model, also had similar issues. So, I'd like to avoid Dell just in case those two examples weren't a fluke. I've heard good things about Asus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I floundered through some Google searches over the last half hour and have reached the conclusion that I'm woefully unqualified to figure out which make and model would make sense, so I'm deferring to the collective wisdom of the Lazyweb." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2265" RevisionGUID="0d7efdba-c50d-4116-bbb9-b7587a3f71bd" CreationDate="2016-03-13T05:09:21.183" UserId="1369" Text="You're absolutely right-it is very very hard to find the right keyboard for everything, but if you want to switch between 3 bluetooth devices at the press of a key in the dark and don't need a full size keyboard, the [Logitech K810](https://secure.logitech.com/en-us/product/bluetooth-illuminated-keyboard-k810) seems to be the only one. Tried it in store and was very happy with the build quality but it goes for ~€100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option for fast Bluetooth switching between 3 devices is the [Logitech K480](https://secure.logitech.com/en-us/product/multi-device-keyboard-k480). The keyboard is not illuminated but has a dock to place phones and tablets which is very handy. Again tried it in store and was happy with quality, real shame it's not illuminated. ~€50-55.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a basic multiple Bluetooth connected keyboard with no illumination or dock there's the [Logitech K 380](https://secure.logitech.com/en-us/product/multi-device-keyboard-k380) for €35-40. Haven't physically touched this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope the K810 is what you're looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2266" RevisionGUID="c48d630a-c3e3-4302-be97-0a38ed1c91d2" CreationDate="2016-03-13T08:45:24.887" UserId="48" Text="I have used Devolo dLAN 200AVs extensively in my UK home for about five years now, and they are great. None of them are pass though (i.e. you can plug a mains device into them), so I needed either use an extension cable with a 4 or 6 way plug board attached, or where I had dual sockets in the wall, I just sacrificed an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit of pass through devices, is that they contain noise suppression circuitry inside them, to help counter any noisy devices, or power on spikes that may be generated by adjacent devices that may also be plugged in to the plug boards. Devolo actually recommend that the dLANs are not plugged in to plug boards, and that they should only be plugged in at the wall, due to signal degradation. However, I personally, have not experienced many problems, mine all work fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently added two pass through 500 dLAN AV devices, for a higher speed connection from my media server to my lounge, where the XBMC is, and I can stream videos just fine. They also are compatible with the existing 200AVs, so now every room is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They even come with a remote admin tool that works on OS X (as well as WinTel machines).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the wiring in my house is about 50 years old, and no problems have arisen because of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can not recommend these highly enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I purchased *all* of them, secondhand, on eBay for around £10 each for the 200AVs and £20 for the 500s. Just wait for someone selling a bulk lot because they are upgrading (i.e. from 200 to 500, so they are selling off the 200s cheaply)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2266" RevisionGUID="91083267-dfdd-472a-8fc0-60be039a8fb3" CreationDate="2016-03-13T11:26:12.833" UserId="48" Comment="Added images and extra info" Text="I have used Devolo dLAN 200AVs extensively in my UK home for about five years now, and they are great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Devolo dLAN 200 AV][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have about six of them, all single Ethernet port (multiport versions, which three Ethernet ports, are available). They have UK plugs, not US plugs, but none of mine are pass though (i.e. you can plug a mains device into them), so I needed either use an extension cable with a 4 or 6 way plug board attached, or where I had dual sockets in the wall, I just sacrificed an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit of pass through devices, is that they contain noise suppression circuitry inside them, to help counter any noisy devices, or power on spikes that may be generated by adjacent devices that may also be plugged in to the plug boards. Devolo actually recommend that the dLANs are not plugged in to plug boards, and that they should only be plugged in at the wall, due to signal degradation. However, I personally, have not experienced many problems, mine all work fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently added two pass through 500 dLAN AV Plus devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Devolo 500 dLAN AV Plus][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use these for a higher speed connection from my media server, in my garage, to my lounge, where the XBMC is, and I can stream videos just fine. They also are compatible with the existing 200AVs, so now every room is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They even come with a remote admin tool, the *dLAN Cockpit*, that works on OS X (as well as WinTel machines). Also available are Wi-Fi extenders, which act in the same way as the Ethernet variants, but pump out Wi-Fi instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the wiring in my house is about 50 years old, and no problems have arisen because of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can not recommend these highly enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I purchased *all* of them, secondhand, on eBay for around £10 each for the 200AVs and £20 for the 500s. Just wait for someone selling a bulk lot because they are upgrading (i.e. from 200 to 500, so they are selling off the 200s cheaply).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5ADNA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jB3vO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="392fd374-63c5-4801-be49-cf807fa7160b" CreationDate="2016-03-13T11:26:41.677" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="Can someone recommend a cheap (up to $15-$20) device that can receive a wireless signal from my main router and transfer it to a classic network wired switch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found bunch of cheap repeaters on eBay, but don't know if any of them can pass a wireless signal to a wired network.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="392fd374-63c5-4801-be49-cf807fa7160b" CreationDate="2016-03-13T11:26:41.677" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="Wi-Fi repeater recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2115" RevisionGUID="392fd374-63c5-4801-be49-cf807fa7160b" CreationDate="2016-03-13T11:26:41.677" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 54, 614 edit id of 407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2266" RevisionGUID="a0c294a3-78c9-4331-8e51-7edd0f53b20f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T11:31:23.457" UserId="48" Comment="Added images and extra info" Text="I have used Devolo dLAN 200AVs extensively in my UK home for about five years now, and they are great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Devolo dLAN 200 AV][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have about six of them, all single Ethernet port (multiport versions, which three Ethernet ports, are available). I have not found this to be a problem, because I have switches/hubs in most rooms, anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have UK plugs, not US plugs, but none of my dLAN 200 AV devices are pass though (i.e. you can plug a mains device into them), so I needed either use an extension cable with a 4 or 6 way plug board attached, or where I had dual sockets in the wall, I just sacrificed an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit of pass through devices, is that they contain noise suppression circuitry inside them, to help counter any noisy devices, or power on spikes that may be generated by adjacent devices that may also be plugged in to the plug boards. Devolo actually recommend that the dLANs are not plugged in to plug boards, and that they should only be plugged in at the wall, due to signal degradation. However, I personally, have not experienced many problems, mine all work fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently added two 500 dLAN AV Plus devices, which do have pass through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Devolo 500 dLAN AV Plus][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use these for a higher speed connection from my media server, in my garage, to my lounge, where the XBMC is, and I can stream videos just fine. They also are compatible with the existing 200AVs, so now every room is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They even come with a remote admin tool, the *dLAN Cockpit*, that works on OS X (as well as WinTel machines). Also available are Wi-Fi extenders, which act in the same way as the Ethernet variants, but pump out Wi-Fi instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the wiring in my house is about 50 years old, and no problems have arisen because of that. They can get quite warm, but even after having them plugged in for 4 years solidly, that has not been an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can not recommend these highly enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I purchased *all* of them, secondhand, on eBay for around £10 each for the 200AVs and £20 for the 500s. Just wait for someone selling a bulk lot because they are upgrading (i.e. from 200 to 500, so they are selling off the 200s cheaply).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5ADNA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jB3vO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2267" RevisionGUID="57b2f4d3-c5c3-498e-af86-361e05d89622" CreationDate="2016-03-13T12:39:30.513" UserId="2016" Text="There are sites like cpuboss (for comparing CPUs) and gpuboss (for comparing GPUs) where you can compare your components with other components you are interested in and see reviews, benchmarks and differences. Here i'm comparing:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [your CPU with FX-8320][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [and FX-8320 with i5-6500][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that going with Intel is overall a more valuable change and choice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/AMD-FX-8320-vs-AMD-FX-6100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i5-6500-vs-AMD-FX-8320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="a2d9648c-3af4-445c-8f47-a9bb33f1505f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T16:40:24.853" UserId="1960" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: atleast 4.7in.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I have noticed that I can get a used(risking that it doesn't last or work) Galaxy note 3 on ebay for $148-180. I will also give bounty that put's up a good argument on weather I should get one of the new phones mentioned above, the Galaxy Note 3, or another phone used or new of your choice that can compare.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="3030f002-8a47-4921-8348-1d8f3a8a6458" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:01:56.140" UserId="1960" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: atleast 4.7in.&#xD;&#xA;- Must have atleast 3gb ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I have noticed that I can get a used(risking that it doesn't last or work) Galaxy note 3 on ebay for $148-180. I will also give bounty that put's up a good argument on weather I should get one of the new phones mentioned above, the Galaxy Note 3, or another phone used or new of your choice that can compare.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="51cc3129-e853-46e8-8012-f8feab86adc0" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:20:55.840" UserId="1960" Comment="deleted 34 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: atleast 4.7in.&#xD;&#xA;- Must have atleast 3gb ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**OnePlus x vs. Note 3?**&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Galaxy note 3 on ebay for $148-180. I will also give bounty that put's up a good argument on weather I should get one of the new phones mentioned above, the Galaxy Note 3, or another phone used or new of your choice that can compare.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="331cb885-6ebe-4199-b6c9-3fa7ab7b6265" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:24:15.687" UserId="1960" Comment="Rollback to [3030f002-8a47-4921-8348-1d8f3a8a6458]" Text="I'm looking for a great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;- a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps  w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;- Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;- Screen Size: atleast 4.7in.&#xD;&#xA;- Must have atleast 3gb ram&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Straight Talk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minor things that I would like, but aren't necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- super-Amoled screen&#xD;&#xA;- I would like a phone that would last at least 6 non-stop use and quick charge time&#xD;&#xA;- An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be phone for over a year, so I need to last a little while. I will be writing programs on it, so I need a medium-big screen. It also needs to have pretty good speed, and can handle some multi-tasking. I would also be recording on the phone as well, while writing programs and/or playing games. I know this is a lot for the price, but I don't have a big budget. I have done some research and here are a few phones I have found: Blu Life One X (2016) and the Moto G (3rd Gen). I really like the Blu Life One X, but there quite a bit of reviews about the screen touch not working and the battery being terrible and wanted to get some input on that. Also found another 1 that i think I might get lenovo k3 note. But what about the xiaomi redmi note 2.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will also consider buying a used phone off ebay or amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I have noticed that I can get a used(risking that it doesn't last or work) Galaxy note 3 on ebay for $148-180. I will also give bounty that put's up a good argument on weather I should get one of the new phones mentioned above, the Galaxy Note 3, or another phone used or new of your choice that can compare.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="af9400a1-8229-4d32-95fa-5c336d4aa91f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:55:45.813" UserId="1189" Text="The last couple of months I have been preparing for a return to hobby music production after a long hiatus.  I have realised that my computer will not have enough storage space for my coming sample library, so I need to look at external storage solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I basically two options:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Store the samples on a Gigabyte Ethernet-connected `Synology DS415+ NAS` that's already on my network. I could potentially make use of double LAN ports if I purchase an extra `Network switch`, since all Ethernet ports on my router are already occupied.&#xD;&#xA;2. Purcase an external drive with either SSD or Thunderbolt (but probably not both – that would be too expensive). I am using an `iMac Mid-2011` with `Thunderbolt 1` and `USB 2`, but may upgrade to a new Retina iMac within 1-2 years, and not sure if now is a good time to invest in `Thunderbolt 2` technology in an external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one of these alternatives would be advisable from both a ***technologically functional*** and ***cost-benefit*** purchase recommendation standpoint?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries on a remote location on the network for use in a DAW, or will it become an headache?&#xD;&#xA;- In case network transfer is too slow to work with, would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports instead of getting an external drive? But then again, my computer has only one Ethernet port, so I guess that would be the bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;- What's the wisest technology to prioritise from a cost-benefit perspective: External SSD with `USB 2` or External HDD with `Thunderbolt 1` connection (both due to my computer's limitations).&#xD;&#xA;- Given the above point, what's most future-proof given that I may upgrade my computer to `USB-C` or `Thunderbolt 3` within 1-2 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purchasing limitations:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Storage requirement**: I need at least *0.5 – 1 TB*.&#xD;&#xA;* **Budget**: Preferably less than *$300 USD*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="af9400a1-8229-4d32-95fa-5c336d4aa91f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:55:45.813" UserId="1189" Text="External Music Production Library: NAS vs. External SSD vs. External HDD Thunderbolt?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="af9400a1-8229-4d32-95fa-5c336d4aa91f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:55:45.813" UserId="1189" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8434" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="c564c261-413a-4140-b7e4-c9063ad4c9d9" CreationDate="2016-03-13T20:01:51.170" UserId="1189" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="The last couple of months I have been preparing for a return to hobby music production after a long hiatus.  I have realised that my computer will not have enough storage space for my coming sample library, so I need to look at external storage solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I basically two options:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Store the samples on a Gigabyte Ethernet-connected `Synology DS415+ NAS` that's already on my network. I could potentially make use of double LAN ports if I purchase an extra `Network switch`, since all Ethernet ports on my router are already occupied.&#xD;&#xA;2. Purcase an external drive with either SSD or Thunderbolt (but probably not both – that would be too expensive). I am using an `iMac Mid-2011` with `Thunderbolt 1` and `USB 2`, but may upgrade to a new Retina iMac within 1-2 years, and not sure if now is a good time to invest in `Thunderbolt 2` technology in an external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one of these alternatives would be advisable from both a ***technologically functional*** and ***cost-benefit*** purchase recommendation standpoint?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries on a remote location on the network for use in a DAW, or will it become a waiting-game headache?&#xD;&#xA;- In case network transfer is too slow to work with, would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports instead of getting an external drive? But then again, my computer has only one Ethernet port, so I guess that would be the bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;- What's the wisest technology to prioritise from a cost-benefit perspective: External SSD with `USB 2` or External HDD with `Thunderbolt 1` connection (both due to my computer's limitations).&#xD;&#xA;- Given the above point, what's most future-proof given that I may upgrade my computer to `USB-C` or `Thunderbolt 3` within 1-2 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purchasing limitations:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Storage requirement**: I need at least *0.5 – 1 TB*.&#xD;&#xA;* **Budget**: Preferably less than *$300 USD*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="7acd5b81-5aab-4fbf-b9e3-bfac1e7ea429" CreationDate="2016-03-13T20:05:39.590" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 22 characters in body" Text="The last couple of months I have been preparing for a return to hobby music production after a long hiatus.  I have realised that my computer will not have enough storage space for my coming sample library, so I need to look at external storage solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I basically have two options:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Store the samples on a Gigabit Ethernet-connected Synology DS415+ NAS that's already on my network. I could potentially make use of double LAN ports if I purchase an extra Network switch, since all Ethernet ports on my router are already occupied.&#xD;&#xA;2. Purchase an external drive with either SSD or Thunderbolt (but probably not both – that would be too expensive). I am using an iMac from mid-2011 with Thunderbolt 1 and USB 2, but may upgrade to a new Retina iMac within 1-2 years, and not sure if now is a good time to invest in Thunderbolt 2 technology in an external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one of these alternatives would be advisable from both a ***technologically functional*** and ***cost-benefit*** purchase recommendation standpoint?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries on a remote location on the network for use in a DAW, or will it become a waiting-game headache?&#xD;&#xA;- In case network transfer is too slow to work with, would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports instead of getting an external drive? But then again, my computer has only one Ethernet port, so I guess that would be the bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;- What's the wisest technology to prioritise from a cost-benefit perspective: External SSD with USB 2 or External HDD with Thunderbolt 1 connection (both due to my computer's limitations).&#xD;&#xA;- Given the above point, what's most future-proof given that I may upgrade my computer to USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 within 1-2 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purchasing limitations:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Storage requirement**: I need at least *0.5 – 1 TB*.&#xD;&#xA;* **Budget**: Preferably less than *$300 USD*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2240" RevisionGUID="829120f8-2007-4819-ba00-2c9bde5043f2" CreationDate="2016-03-13T20:07:05.627" UserId="8" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I don't believe there are any phones with your specifications under $199. Here is my recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Honor 5X][1] - $199  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Android 5.1  &#xD;&#xA;- Dual camera (13MP back)  &#xD;&#xA;- 2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with both AT&amp;T and T-Mobile sim cards (This also means StraightTalk)  &#xD;&#xA;- Full 1080p HD 5.5&quot; multitouch screen  &#xD;&#xA;- Easily [rootable][2] (unlockable bootloader)  &#xD;&#xA;- MicroSD card slot  &#xD;&#xA;- 16GB internal storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Honor-5X-Metal-Unlocked-Smartphone/dp/B019O8YWR0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.xda-developers.com/honor-5x/development/root-kiw-l24-usa-kiwi-t3305190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="f6c817fc-8e01-4c4f-abed-2d45eb5cc0cd" CreationDate="2016-03-13T20:07:42.113" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="f6a5e0de-0461-4b8e-b2be-5e567ed0ddc3" CreationDate="2016-03-13T20:09:07.047" UserId="1189" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="The last couple of months I have been preparing for a return to hobby music production after a long hiatus.  I have realised that my computer will not have enough storage space for my coming sample library, so I need to look at external storage solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I basically have two options:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Store the samples on a Gigabit Ethernet-connected Synology DS415+ NAS that's already on my network. I could potentially make use of double LAN ports if I purchase an extra Network switch, since all Ethernet ports on my router are already occupied.&#xD;&#xA;2. Purchase an external drive with either SSD or Thunderbolt (but probably not both – that would be too expensive). I am using an iMac from mid-2011 with Thunderbolt 1 and USB 2, but may upgrade to a new Retina iMac within 1-2 years, and not sure if now is a good time to invest in Thunderbolt 2 technology in an external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one of these alternatives would be advisable from both a ***technologically functional*** and ***cost-benefit*** purchase recommendation standpoint?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries on a remote location on the network for use in a DAW, or will it become a waiting-game headache?&#xD;&#xA;- In case network transfer is too slow to work with, would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports instead of getting an external drive? But then again, my computer has only one Ethernet port, so I guess that would be the bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;- What's the wisest technology to prioritise from a cost-benefit perspective: External SSD with USB 2 or External HDD with Thunderbolt 1 connection (both due to my computer's limitations).&#xD;&#xA;- Given the above point, what's most future-proof given that I may upgrade my computer to USB-C and/or Thunderbolt 3 within 1-2 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purchasing limitations:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Storage requirement**: I need at least *0.5 – 1 TB*.&#xD;&#xA;* **Budget**: Preferably less than *$300 USD*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2270" RevisionGUID="726562f7-5ef4-4278-9b39-73dc81220c4c" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:20:27.440" UserId="155" Text="&gt; Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries in a remote location?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It makes sense, but it's not at all beneficial. If you're going to be pulling samples into your project fairly often, you'll be much better off storing them locally so you only have to depend on drive connection transfer rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like you said, this wouldn't matter at all if your computer is bottlenecking the network connection with one LAN port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What's most future-proof solution given that I may upgrade my computer to USB-C and/or Thunderbolt 3 within 1-2 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two options you're choosing from aren't desirable if you're focusing on future-proofing. Both will become completely outdated in 1-2 years because of the USB 2 and HDD technologies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; External SSD with USB 2 or external HDD with Thunderbolt 1?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Transfer rate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking into account the other questions, an HDD with Thunderbolt will do you well because you could connect several of these to a Thunderbolt hub and have little to no bottlenecking. Thunderbolt is rated at 1250MB/s per channel (but usually hits around 500MB/s) while HDD read speeds average around 120MB/s. This allows for a lot of room to expand your storage options later on. With an SSD-USB 2 setup, you have a connection speed of 60MB/s bottlenecking an average read speed of &gt;400MB/s... Not too great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're looking for at least 0.5-1TB of storage space, choosing the SSD route will skyrocket the price very easily. A 1TB SSD will instantly put you over budget while a 1TB HDD won't even put you over half your budget. Also, since you're considering the future, it's better to spend less so you can potentially upgrade to a newer technology later on. You might find a good deal on an SSD with Thunderbolt for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Availability&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both options are fairly uncommon because USB 2 is being quickly phased out as a drive connection type and Thunderbolt on a hard drive is a mix of very old and very new technologies. Don't expect a small price tag on anything amazing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[G-Technology G-DRIVE Mobile 1TB 7200RPM 1xThunderbolt/1xUSB 3.0][1] (USD $190)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Enough space for large sample libraries&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to move around and manage&#xD;&#xA;- Comes with Thunderbolt and USB cables&#xD;&#xA;- Transfer rate: up to 136MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quality solution overall. But, again, you don't have too many options here given your price constraint. There are better products out there that sit outside your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822205209" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2269" RevisionGUID="7c5df546-1fda-4b47-85cc-21ab7897810f" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:21:32.023" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2271" RevisionGUID="93997f1a-b3ea-49af-ac90-5fa960afa611" CreationDate="2016-03-13T23:22:28.920" UserId="48" Text="It does seem a bit strange that you can't get the signal over such a distance, and I am wondering if there is a fault with your Surface tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ten feet is approximately three meters (3.048m to be precise). Now, looking at the [USB cabling specifications][1] of Wikipedia:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The data cables for USB 1.x and USB 2.x use a twisted pair to reduce&#xD;&#xA;&gt; noise and crosstalk. USB 3.0 cables contain twice as many wires as USB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2.x to support SuperSpeed data transmission, and are thus larger in diameter.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The USB 1.1 standard specifies that a standard cable can have a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; maximum length of 5 meters with devices operating at Full Speed (12&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Mbit/s), and a maximum length of 3 meters with devices operating at&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Low Speed (1.5 Mbit/s).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB 2.0 provides for a maximum cable length of 5 meters for devices&#xD;&#xA;&gt; running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). The primary reason for this limit is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the maximum allowed round-trip delay of about 1.5 μs. If USB host&#xD;&#xA;&gt; commands are unanswered by the USB device within the allowed time, the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; host considers the command lost. When adding USB device response time,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; delays from the maximum number of hubs added to the delays from&#xD;&#xA;&gt; connecting cables, the maximum acceptable delay per cable amounts to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 26 ns. The USB 2.0 specification requires that cable delay be less&#xD;&#xA;&gt; than 5.2 ns per meter (192 000 km/s, which is close to the maximum&#xD;&#xA;&gt; achievable transmission speed for standard copper wire).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The USB 3.0 standard does not directly specify a maximum cable length,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; requiring only that all cables meet an electrical specification: for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; copper cabling with AWG 26 wires the maximum practical length is 3&#xD;&#xA;&gt; meters (9.8 ft).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, even if your Surface is using USB 1.1 at a Low Speed, ten feet of cable should work. However, I would assume that it would be using at least USB 2.0, so ten feet is well within the five meter limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What errors, if any, do you see being displayed? Are you getting an error such as,  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB Device Not Recognised&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;appearing on your Windows screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might want to take a look at this video, [Free USB Repeater (extender)][2]. The black hub that he is using is a $9.95 Dynex DXHUB23 4-Port USB Hub. Before using the hub, he also suggests using a USB 2.0 active repeater cable. These abound aplenty, just have a [search on google][3]. For example, for $14.95, on Amazon, there is the [PTC Premium 33ft / 10 Meter USB 2.0 Active Repeater / Extension Cable][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to extend a long way (20m) then you could employ the [USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Active Extension Repeater Cable (A-A M/F), 20M (65-ft.)][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also of interest is the article, [USB Cable Length Limitations And How To Break Them][6], from YourCableStore.com &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; #USB Cable Length Limitations&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; With the popularity of USB (it powers everything from our external&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hard drives to the charging of our mobile phones), we are constantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; amassing USB cables. USB 1.0/1.1 has been almost entirely supplanted&#xD;&#xA;&gt; by USB 2.0. Since USB 3.0 / USB 3.1 has yet to become as ubiquitous as&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2.0 that means that most people have several 2.0 cables lying around. The mistake that most individuals make is when they take a 10 foot&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cord that came with a device and then purchase a 10 foot extension to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; make a cable that is 20 feet in total length. This kind of setup will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; not work and requires the use of a special type of USB cable known as&#xD;&#xA;&gt; an active or repeater cable. But before we get to active cables or&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hubs, how long can a USB cable be?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Maximum length of USB 2.0 cable:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 2.0 specification limits the length of a cable between USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&gt; devices (Full Speed or Hi-Speed) to 5 meters (or about 16 feet and 5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; inches). In other words, you cannot just connect a bunch of extension&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cables together (like taking a 6 foot cord and extending it with 4&#xD;&#xA;&gt; other 6 foot extension cords) and run them 30 feet to another room.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; However, you can connect a 6 foot cable with a 10 foot extension cable&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for a total of 16 feet, which is below the maximum cable length for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Maximum length of USB 3.0 / USB 3.1 cable:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 3.0/3.1 specification does not specify a maximum cable length&#xD;&#xA;&gt; between USB 3.0/3.1 devices (SuperSpeed or SuperSpeed+), but there is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a recommended length of 3 meters (or about 9 feet and 10 inches).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; However, the biggest limitation to the length of the cable is the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; quality of the cable. Results may vary, but with a high quality cable&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you should be able to go beyond 3 meters. However, to ensure you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; achieve the best results possible, use an active cable when going more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; than 10 feet (3 meters).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; #How to break the USB length limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; With the USB specs limiting the length of cables, is there a way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; extend those limits? Yes! However, in order to go beyond these cable&#xD;&#xA;&gt; length limits (or recommended lengths) you need to use self-powered&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB hubs or active (repeater) cables; both of which have their own&#xD;&#xA;&gt; limits as well. Other options such as USB over Ethernet or building&#xD;&#xA;&gt; your own USB bridge can extend the USB range further.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##USB Hubs:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; You can use extension cables and self-powered USB hubs connected&#xD;&#xA;&gt; together to extend the range of your USB device. However, it is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; important to remember when using 2.0 hubs and cables that the distance&#xD;&#xA;&gt; between each powered hub can be no more than 5 meters (16 feet and 5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; inches). When using 3.0/3.1 hubs and cables, do not exceed the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; recommended length of 3 meters (9 feet and 10 inches) between hubs.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Note: It is possible to use bus-powered USB hubs, but you will quickly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; run out of power as you extend your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Active (Repeater) Extension Cables:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB active extension cables contain electronics that regenerate the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB signal. Active cables are essentially 1 port USB hubs. You can use&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a regular USB cable in conjunction with an active cable as long as the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; regular cable is not more than 5 meters (16 feet and 5 inches) long&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for 2.0 devices and not more than 3 meters (9 feet and 10 inches) long&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for 3.0 devices. Note: Typically, active cables are bus-powered&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cables. To ensure you receive the full 500mA power of a USB port,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; consider purchasing an active cable that includes a separate power&#xD;&#xA;&gt; adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; #USB Hub Limits and Maximum Length of Active Cables&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Just like there is a limit on a regular (passive) USB cable, there is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; also a limit on how long an active cable can be and how many USB hubs&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you can use.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Maximum number of USB Hubs:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The USB 2.0/3.0/3.1 specifications call for only 7 tiers of devices to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; be connected. When you count the devices on each end (the host and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; peripheral device), that only leaves 5 tiers available and a USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is considered 1 tier. Thus, only a maximum of 5 USB hubs can be used&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for a total maximum length of 30 meters (about 98 feet and 5 inches).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Maximum length of USB active (repeater) cable:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; This number depends if you are using a regular cable with an active&#xD;&#xA;&gt; cable or not. If you are not using a regular cable, then the maximum&#xD;&#xA;&gt; active cable length for USB 2.0 is 30 meters (98 feet and 5 inches)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and the maximum recommended length for USB 3.0/3.1 is 18 meters (about&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 59 feet). If you are using a regular cable (max length of 5 meters for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2.0 and max length of 3 meters for 3.0/3.1) with an active cable, then the maximum length for USB 2.0 is 25 meters (about 82 feet) and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; maximum recommended length for USB 3.0/3.1 is 15 meters (about 49&#xD;&#xA;&gt; feet).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##Is there any way to go beyond the limit of active cables or hubs?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; There are other ways you can extend a USB signal beyond the 30 meter&#xD;&#xA;&gt; limit. You can use USB over Ethernet to achieve distances up to 100&#xD;&#xA;&gt; meters (about 328 feet). Additionally, you can build your own USB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; bridge to transmit data over different communication channels such as&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wireless methods.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ##What about USB 1.0/1.1?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB 1.0/1.1 has been superseded by USB 2.0 and USB 3.0/3.1. In&#xD;&#xA;&gt; addition, USB 2.0 cables are backward compatible so they will work&#xD;&#xA;&gt; just fine with any USB 1.0/1.1 devices. However, in case you are using&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a 1.0/1.1 USB host and device, there are limits to the maximum length&#xD;&#xA;&gt; of the cable. The limit for USB 1.0/1.1 cable length is 3 meters&#xD;&#xA;&gt; (about 9 feet and 10 inches) and the maximum total length should not&#xD;&#xA;&gt; exceed 18 meters (about 59 feet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Cabling&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSvB1ZrUIvQ&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/webhp?q=usb%202.0%20active%20repeater%20cable&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-Premium-Active-Repeater-Extension/dp/B003NUIK4M&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.tripplite.com/usb-2.0-high-speed-active-extension-repeater-cable-a-male-female-20m-65-ft~U02620M/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.yourcablestore.com/USB-Cable-Length-Limitations-And-How-To-Break-Them_ep_42-1.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2272" RevisionGUID="48c066cc-05e2-423a-a1b0-8911dd83fa34" CreationDate="2016-03-14T00:20:17.933" UserId="48" Text="The best mouse that I have ever bought, in fact the only mouse that I have ever bought (as I usually get mine from corporate throw outs), was a mouse made by NUBWO. It is a NUBWO PHELAN:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NUBWO PHELAN][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I purchased this is Thailand, so I am not sure if they are widely available in the West, although they *are* designed in the USA. It cost me B$180, or $4, and it was not a copy or clone. It is a beautiful looking thing, very comfortable to hold and has a plethora of side buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a small resolution button that can cycle through three different pre-set speeds, which I found to be very useful (when drawing technical designs), after having initially scoffed at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, it has a colourful light display in the top, which looks cool, although it could be distracting, if working with the lights out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kedNB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2273" RevisionGUID="a4dbf8bc-d4d0-473a-b39d-ec2c60b345f6" CreationDate="2016-03-14T05:24:24.800" UserId="1658" Text="http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Surface-Tablets-Readers-Gunmetal/dp/B00DYTM9K8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457932858&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=levo+arm+stand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;^ This can let you angle the tablet any way you want, put it parallel to the ground so you can lie on your back and look upwards on it. You can turn the tablet you turn your head or elevate your head on a pillow. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something ergonomically the same as the above but can handle a much larger monitor like a 27 inch all in one computer or a 27 inch touch monitor. Alot of the monitor arms I have googled don't seem to have the ability to be parallel to the floor and constantly/easily rotated slightly/adjusted with your hands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term goal I hope to have a massive screen above me and lie down/adjust its angle without moving much&#xD;&#xA;So right now with the amazon link above I could accomplish what I'm looking for for a 12 inch tablet. 27 inch seems like the next goal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2273" RevisionGUID="a4dbf8bc-d4d0-473a-b39d-ec2c60b345f6" CreationDate="2016-03-14T05:24:24.800" UserId="1658" Text="Monitor arm stand that can be parallel to ground/angle adjusted constantly with hands" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2273" RevisionGUID="a4dbf8bc-d4d0-473a-b39d-ec2c60b345f6" CreationDate="2016-03-14T05:24:24.800" UserId="1658" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2274" RevisionGUID="d3e21bff-5095-4991-8f67-b07fe86bac40" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:00:35.790" UserId="2019" Text="[I'd welcome an edit to a better title.  Or a suggestion to a better Stack Exchange forum, if you think there is one.]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a line-powered (standard AC) device that sinks 50W in steady-state and I need to power it for 10 hours in case of service interruption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming that I can use, say, a 500W UPS (50W * 10hr = 500Whr = 500W * 1hr) to power it for 10 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But where can I find that kind of UPS?  Looking at, for example, CyberPower, I see the model I currently own will supply 600W for only 1 minute (if I'm reading the spec correctly [here, under product features &quot;Runtime (half/full)](https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/desktop/cp1000avrlcd).  (Actually, I don't know how to read that since it says full = 1 minute, half = 6 minutes, so maybe it isn't linear?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, where can I find a battery backed UPS that will supply 50W for 10 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Bonus questions:  The UPS specs generally also use VA as units as well as W.  Is this due to RMS factors for sine wave power or what?  And does it affect my calculations?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2274" RevisionGUID="d3e21bff-5095-4991-8f67-b07fe86bac40" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:00:35.790" UserId="2019" Text="Can I find a UPS that supplies 50W for 10hrs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8452" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2274" RevisionGUID="d3e21bff-5095-4991-8f67-b07fe86bac40" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:00:35.790" UserId="2019" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1269" RevisionGUID="115e8c7c-47c5-435b-9f1c-bfac2e536d6a" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:19:07.863" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="**Logitech MX master**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A really nice mouse that is made out of solid metal with a gold and black look. On the left side it has 3 buttons, with one featuring a gesture control. It means that you can do gestures for Windows and custom ones by holding that button. That button is also the thumb rest. Just right above that is a horizontal scrolling wheel and 2 macro buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scroll wheel can tilt to the left and right and features a smart lock system. It means that when you scroll fast it will unlock and use free scroll. Sensitivity can be changed in software. It also has an unlock button for free scroll.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software is nice and simple to use with a friendly UI. It isn't wired though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse cost more than your budget but it is totally worth it.&#xD;&#xA;It's 80 to 100 Euros." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1269" RevisionGUID="115e8c7c-47c5-435b-9f1c-bfac2e536d6a" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:19:07.863" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 155 edit id of 408" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8455" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="ff5c7079-0c50-4a05-902a-8ed09fedb5aa" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:19:41.600" UserId="527" Comment="add new tag" Text="&lt;hdtv&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="ff5c7079-0c50-4a05-902a-8ed09fedb5aa" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:19:41.600" Comment="Proposed by 527 approved by 155 edit id of 409" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2275" RevisionGUID="a55713d2-b186-4fdc-adb2-872472cae8f7" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:21:50.643" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2276" RevisionGUID="03381c91-57d2-4c2d-9ab6-70e8271461cc" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:21:50.643" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices with features specifically designed for low power consumption or use power wisely." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2274" RevisionGUID="f6a4f7cd-832b-41f6-a03b-99f54ce77976" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:25:28.520" UserId="155" Comment="improved title; removed unnecessary commentary" Text="I have a line-powered (standard AC) device that sinks 50W in steady-state and I need to power it for 10 hours in case of service interruption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming that I can use, say, a 500W UPS (50W * 10hr = 500Whr = 500W * 1hr) to power it for 10 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But where can I find that kind of UPS?  Looking at, for example, CyberPower, I see the model I currently own will supply 600W for only 1 minute (if I'm reading the spec correctly [here](https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/desktop/cp1000avrlcd), under product features &quot;Runtime (half/full).&quot;  (Actually, I don't know how to read that since it says full = 1 minute, half = 6 minutes, so maybe it isn't linear?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, where can I find a battery backed UPS that will supply 50W for 10 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus questions: The UPS specs generally also use VA as units as well as W.  Is this due to RMS factors for sine wave power or what?  And does it affect my calculations?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2274" RevisionGUID="f6a4f7cd-832b-41f6-a03b-99f54ce77976" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:25:28.520" UserId="155" Comment="improved title; removed unnecessary commentary" Text="UPS that supplies 50W for 10hrs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2271" RevisionGUID="b04c1df7-fde2-44c5-a5a0-0c098f1a6747" CreationDate="2016-03-14T12:51:16.247" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2277" RevisionGUID="08ac5671-1ae2-43db-81bd-d0ce8f49aa72" CreationDate="2016-03-14T14:56:52.833" UserId="1641" Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your requeriments doesn't go with your budget, so you'll have to drop some requeriments, especially for non chinese brands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recomend the [Xiaomi RedMi 2Pro][1] ($147 US):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with micro SD card (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Uses android OS (Yes 4.4 upgradable to 5.1)&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera(Yes, but 8MP) 1080p@30fps (Yes) w/flash and auto-focus (rear Camera only)&#xD;&#xA; - Camera on both sides. (Yes 8MP and 2MP)&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (No, 	720 x 1280 pixels ~312 ppi pixel density)&#xD;&#xA; - Multi-touch is a must. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen Size: atleast 4.7in. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Must have atleast 3GB RAM (No, 2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) (Yes, not sure about the bootloader)&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with Straight Talk (Not sure, but I think this depends more of the country than the phone)&#xD;&#xA; - 4G LTE (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Multicolor Notification Led (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - First 30% Quick Charge (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But more accurate to your needs is the [Xiaomi RedMi Note 3 Pro][2] ($210 US):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with micro SD card (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Uses android OS (Yes, 5.1)&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera(Yes) 1080p@30fps (Yes) w/flash and auto-focus (Both Sides)&#xD;&#xA; - Camera on both sides. (Yes 16MP and 5MP)&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (Yes,~403 ppi pixel density)&#xD;&#xA; - Multi-touch is a must. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen Size: atleast 4.7in. (Yes, 5.5)&#xD;&#xA; - Must have atleast 3GB RAM (Yes, **Pro Model** come with 3GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) (Yes, not sure about the bootloader)&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with Straight Talk (Not sure, but I think this depends more of the country than the phone)&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - 4G LTE (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Multicolor Notification Led (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Quick Charge (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_2_pro-7710.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_3-7863.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2277" RevisionGUID="3e84797e-e34e-422f-9b73-002cea21ed74" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:04:20.800" UserId="1641" Comment="Improved answer." Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your requeriments doesn't go with your budget, so you'll have to drop some requeriments, especially for non chinese brands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recomend the [Xiaomi RedMi 2Pro][1] ($147 US):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with micro SD card (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Uses android OS (Yes 4.4 upgradable to 5.1)&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera(Yes, but 8MP) 1080p@30fps (Yes) w/flash and auto-focus (rear Camera only)&#xD;&#xA; - Camera on both sides. (Yes 8MP and 2MP)&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (No, 	720 x 1280 pixels ~312 ppi pixel density)&#xD;&#xA; - Multi-touch is a must. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen Size: atleast 4.7in. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Must have atleast 3GB RAM (No, 2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) (Yes, not sure about the bootloader)&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with Straight Talk (Not sure, but I think this depends more of the country than the phone)&#xD;&#xA; - 4G LTE (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Multicolor Notification Led (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - First 30% Quick Charge (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But more accurate to your needs is the [Xiaomi RedMi Note 3 Pro][2] ($210 US). This satisfies all your needs and bring you **awesome bonuses**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with micro SD card (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Uses android OS (Yes, 5.1)&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera(Yes) 1080p@30fps (Yes) w/flash and auto-focus (Both Sides)&#xD;&#xA; - Camera on both sides. (Yes 16MP and 5MP)&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (Yes,~403 ppi pixel density)&#xD;&#xA; - Multi-touch is a must. (Yes)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen Size: atleast 4.7in. (Yes, 5.5)&#xD;&#xA; - Must have atleast 3GB RAM (Yes, **Pro Model** come with 3GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) (Yes, not sure about the bootloader)&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with Straight Talk (Not sure, but I think this depends more of the country than the phone)&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - 4G LTE (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Multicolor Notification Led (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - Quick Charge (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_2_pro-7710.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_3-7863.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="defc2d13-77eb-41cc-b809-38c0991bc90a" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:07:49.730" UserId="1997" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. Mine costs more than your $200 budget but I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, so there's a reduced version that should fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. Unlike most solar panels they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. T&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.5A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (something like 5V and 0.2A, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed you budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="34032f89-8f3c-40d4-ba36-d5a00839dde9" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:12:53.630" UserId="1997" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. Mine costs more than your $200 budget but I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, so here's a reduced version that should fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. T&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.5A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (something like 5V and 0.2A, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="45e12872-eb01-46ba-bf28-0a2bda566fb8" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:20:12.683" UserId="1997" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. Mine costs more than your $200 budget but I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, so here's a reduced version that should fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I don't have direct experience with these but they look like the same idea. Read reviews carefully etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. T&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.5A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (something like 5V and 0.2A, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="98bd0c82-da61-44b6-b43f-c9ee2554ff95" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:28:17.723" UserId="1997" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. Mine costs more than your $200 budget but I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, so here's a reduced version that should fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, these look similar, check reviews thoroughly etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.5A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (something like 5V and 0.2A, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="00a15fb4-4a24-4be9-bd17-a9ee5048dbe2" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:45:18.083" UserId="1997" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. Mine costs more than your $200 budget but I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, so here's a reduced version that should fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, these look similar or the same in terms of features, but I can't comment on the quality. Check reviews thoroughly etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="9b8b3d19-4189-4cfe-9c3f-214202cdfcd0" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:20:17.943" UserId="2021" Text="I have been developing a piece of software that is essentially a web-based GUI interface that configures equipment that will be used in outdoor/field environments (over a wifi network created by the equipment itself). The webgui is responsive across multiple browsers and platforms, but we would like to have a single device that we can ensure the customer will be able to get it to work on, and that we can ship with our equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for an android tablet that will be used in the field in outdoor work environments, but does not need any of the &quot;frills&quot; common to tablets today. All it really needs to do is run this webgui.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Long Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;- solid Wireless card that does not easily disconnect/slow down&#xD;&#xA;- Reliability&#xD;&#xA;- $200 max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Large HD space&#xD;&#xA;- Camera&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers&#xD;&#xA;- HD screen&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- SD Card&#xD;&#xA;- Any other of the common selling points among consumer electronics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently looking at either the Amazon Fire or Lenovo A8-50. The only real alternatives I've found to mass-consumer electronics are the super-rugged tablets used by the military and industries that are based outdoors. This would be an excellent choice, except those are an order of magnitude more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? Perhaps there is a company out there that makes cheap non-consumer tablets meant to be used and locked into specific niche purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="9b8b3d19-4189-4cfe-9c3f-214202cdfcd0" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:20:17.943" UserId="2021" Text="Looking for an android tablet to be used for single dedicated purpose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="9b8b3d19-4189-4cfe-9c3f-214202cdfcd0" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:20:17.943" UserId="2021" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="0bbc528e-0cb4-430c-ab2e-f763df062210" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:41:26.860" UserId="2021" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="I have been developing a piece of software that is essentially a web-based GUI interface that configures equipment that will be used in outdoor/field environments (over a wifi network created by the equipment itself). The webgui is responsive across multiple browsers and platforms, but we would like to have a single device that we can ensure the customer will be able to get it to work on, and that we can ship with our equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for an android tablet that will be used in the field in outdoor work environments, but does not need any of the &quot;frills&quot; common to tablets today. All it really needs to do is run this webgui.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Long Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;- solid Wireless card that does not easily disconnect/slow down&#xD;&#xA;- Reliability&#xD;&#xA;- $200 max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Large HD space&#xD;&#xA;- Camera&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers&#xD;&#xA;- HD screen&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- SD Card&#xD;&#xA;- Any other of the common selling points among consumer electronics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently looking at either the Lenovo A8-50, but even that has a lot of unnecessary features. The only real alternatives I've found to mass-consumer electronics are the super-rugged tablets used by the military and industries that are based outdoors. This would be an excellent choice, except those are an order of magnitude more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? Perhaps there is a company out there that makes cheap non-consumer tablets meant to be used and locked into specific niche purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2281" RevisionGUID="6ba4c8dc-e06b-4072-ab1d-55faf13a4f6e" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:41:47.193" UserId="241" Text="Computer UPSs are optimized to provide high power levels for a short period of time, the idea being to bridge a brief flicker in the mains power, or let you shut down cleanly during an extended outage.  At low power draws, they are quite inefficient, wasting much of the battery's power as heat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet is to build your own UPS from an inverter-charger and a marine/RV deep-cycle battery.  Something like [this 600-watt inverter-charger][1] ($400) plus a 10AH-20AH battery should work; given your low power draw and assuming you don't switch to battery power very often, you might even be able to get away with using an automotive battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aimscorp.net/600-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger-12V.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2281" RevisionGUID="54183e95-219f-4abf-a318-f18746ee3241" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:47:24.187" UserId="241" Comment="Got my amps wrong" Text="Computer UPSs are optimized to provide high power levels for a short period of time, the idea being to bridge a brief flicker in the mains power, or let you shut down cleanly during an extended outage.  At low power draws, they are quite inefficient, wasting much of the battery's power as heat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet is to build your own UPS from an inverter-charger and a marine/RV deep-cycle battery.  Something like [this 600-watt inverter-charger][1] ($400) plus a 60AH-80AH battery should work; given your low power draw and assuming you don't switch to battery power very often, you might even be able to get away with using an automotive battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aimscorp.net/600-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger-12V.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2272" RevisionGUID="8da89a42-2e90-4813-ae31-32db279d12ba" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:12:04.917" UserId="48" Comment="Added link" Text="The best mouse that I have ever bought, in fact the only mouse that I have ever bought (as I usually get mine from corporate throw outs), was a mouse made by NUBWO. It is a [Nubwo Phelan][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nubwo Phelan][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I purchased this is Thailand, so I am not sure if they are widely available in the West, although they *are* designed in the USA. It cost me B$180, or $4, and it was not a copy or clone. It is a beautiful looking thing, and very comfortable to hold. It also has a plethora (well, a couple) of side buttons, which worked well (i.e. they weren't ignored) on an OS X machine (I have never used the mouse on a WinTel machine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a small resolution button that can cycle through three different pre-set speeds, which I found to be very useful (when drawing technical designs), after having initially scoffed at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, it has a colourful light display in the top, which looks cool, although it could be distracting, if working with the lights out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nubwo.com/gaming-mouse/phelan/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kedNB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1117" RevisionGUID="789bcb6f-a8e7-4435-8d00-4c409a2684c7" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:19:58.990" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;solar-power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8487" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2194" RevisionGUID="31c69b1b-ee4f-4cbe-9323-6da45456a424" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:20:46.967" UserId="1189" Comment="19" />
  <row Id="8488" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2282" RevisionGUID="54da6820-8508-4dd2-ae8b-77a349b818c8" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:21:42.810" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2283" RevisionGUID="fcab4536-745a-4abb-a65f-9e46ce02afe4" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:21:42.810" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that generate or run on solar power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2272" RevisionGUID="883d05d0-f22f-480d-b3df-c71faeb67393" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:22:20.620" UserId="48" Comment="Added resolution and model number" Text="The best mouse that I have ever bought, in fact the only mouse that I have ever bought (as I usually get mine from corporate throw outs), was a mouse made by NUBWO. It is a [Nubwo Phelan NM-18][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nubwo Phelan][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I purchased this is Thailand, so I am not sure if they are widely available in the West, although they *are* designed in the USA. It cost me B$180, or $4, and it was not a copy or clone. It is a beautiful looking thing, and very comfortable to hold. It also has a plethora (well, a couple) of side buttons, which worked well (i.e. they weren't ignored) on an OS X machine (I have never used the mouse on a WinTel machine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a small resolution button that can cycle through four different pre-set speeds, 400, 800, 1600 and 2400 DPI, which I found to be very useful (when drawing technical designs), after having initially scoffed at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, it has a colourful light display in the top, which looks cool, although it could be distracting, if working with the lights out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nubwo.com/gaming-mouse/phelan/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kedNB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2264" RevisionGUID="0023c688-dee9-4a37-912c-4a7562c03a89" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:10:43.633" UserId="1369" Comment="added 631 characters in body" Text="The original Hi-Fi Wi-Fi speaker company, [Sonos](https://www.sonos.com), seems to be your fit. They have three product lines that are **fully inter-operable** with each other; in order of increasing quality (and obviously price): [the Play 1, 3 and 5](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-speakers) at $200, $300 and $500 respectively. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite the $50 budget breach per speaker, I include the Play 5 because you'll need at least one (or the CONNECT or the CONNECT AMP) *for full source computer (Apple) audio* (i.e. sources from non-Sonos compatible streaming apps). The Play 5 is also the only one with an AUX, the biggest speaker and as I mentioned the speakers are fully inter-operable, so you can mix and match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As long as you have at least one Play 5/CONNECT/CONNECT AMP connected to an AirPort Express, all models ***exceed*** your critical requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Critical features:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Wireless speakers I am looking for should be able to source &#xD;&#xA;&gt; computer audio, and let me select where to play it at any time *(yes for Apple devices via AirPlay)*:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Play one of the speakers, or...&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Both speakers at the same time *(2 speakers be can linked for great stereo output)*&#xD;&#xA;* *additional speakers can all play at the same time*&#xD;&#xA;* *all speakers can be divided and grouped individually into zones playing different music. Note: if using AirPlay, group functions are still available, however AirPlay is treated by Sonas a single source-so same music only in that group*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, I would like them to:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    [Support AirPlay streaming from iOS devices](https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1241#5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And satisfy almost all optional features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support direct streaming from services like Spotify [(*with Spotify premium-yes*)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTyWKvwrHs0), Soundcloud *(not sure-but if it plays through AirPlay then yes)*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Allow Aux Line-In or equivalent (*Play 5 only*) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Manufacturer also provides [*&quot;bridge&quot;*](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-stereo-components) unit that can connect ordinary line-in speakers to the Wi-Fi system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now in contrast to previous Sonos speakers, the latest ones connect directly to your Wi-Fi and don't require the old $50 bridge. Assuming a total budget of $900 for any 2 speakers and that you have an AirPort Express (additional $100 if you don't), to stay within it you could get (in order of preference): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. (1 x Play 5) + (1 x Play 3) = $800&#xD;&#xA; 2. (1 x Connect) + (1 x Play 3) + (1 x Play 1) = $850&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd go with option 1 myself because it's more than enough my for average (European) place. All the Plays sound amazing, but obviously the Play 5 **really** fills the room, so put plug that in your bigger/more frequented room with the AirPort Express next to it. If you don't have an AirPort Express you can get one and still be in your $900 budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to fill a large house, stretch the budget and get 2 Play 5s. Or buy 1 Play 5, test it and decide on another or a Play 3. The main lady will try, but she'll never keep you down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2264" RevisionGUID="9dec5148-317e-4c5e-a464-334bb31b6613" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:16:17.050" UserId="1369" Comment="added 631 characters in body" Text="The original Hi-Fi Wi-Fi speaker company, [Sonos](https://www.sonos.com), seems to be your fit. They have three product lines that are **fully inter-operable** with each other; in order of increasing quality (and obviously price): [the Play 1, 3 and 5](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-speakers) at $200, $300 and $500 respectively. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite the $50 budget breach per speaker, I include the Play 5 because you'll need at least one (or the CONNECT or the CONNECT AMP) *for full source computer (Apple) audio* (i.e. sources from non-Sonos compatible streaming apps). The Play 5 is also the only one with an AUX, the biggest speaker and as I mentioned the speakers are fully inter-operable, so you can mix and match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As long as you have at least one Play 5/CONNECT/CONNECT AMP connected to an AirPort Express, all models ***exceed*** your critical requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Critical features:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Wireless speakers I am looking for should be able to source &#xD;&#xA;&gt; computer audio, and let me select where to play it at any time *(yes for Apple devices via AirPlay)*:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Play one of the speakers, or...&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    - Both speakers at the same time *(2 speakers be can linked for great stereo output)*&#xD;&#xA;* *additional speakers can all play at the same time*&#xD;&#xA;* *all speakers can be divided and grouped individually into zones playing different music. Note: if using AirPlay, group functions are still available, however AirPlay is treated by Sonas a single source-so same music only in that group*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, I would like them to:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;    [Support AirPlay streaming from iOS devices](https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1241#5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And satisfy almost all optional features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support direct streaming from services like Spotify [(*with Spotify premium-yes*)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTyWKvwrHs0), Soundcloud *(not sure-but if it plays through AirPlay then yes)*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Allow Aux Line-In or equivalent (*Play 5 only*) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Manufacturer also provides [*&quot;bridge&quot;*](http://www.sonos.com/products/wireless-stereo-components) unit that can connect ordinary line-in speakers to the Wi-Fi system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now in contrast to previous Sonos speakers, the latest ones connect directly to your Wi-Fi and don't require the old $50 bridge. Assuming a total budget of $900 for any 2 speakers and that you have an AirPort Express (additional $100 if you don't), to stay within it you could get (in order of preference): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. (1 x Play 5) + (1 x Play 3) = $800&#xD;&#xA; 2. (1 x Connect) + (1 x Play 3) + (1 x Play 1) = $850&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd go with option 1 myself because it's more than enough my for average (European) place. All the Plays sound amazing, but obviously the Play 5 **really** fills the room, so put plug that in your bigger/more frequented room with the AirPort Express [next to it](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F-6HwuHGs8). If you don't have an AirPort Express you can get one and still be in your $900 budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to fill a large house, stretch the budget and get 2 Play 5s. Or buy 1 Play 5, test it and decide on another or a Play 3. The main lady will try, but she'll never keep you down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="433aae3e-bc5b-4e4f-8bda-ed476d72856a" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:52:03.963" UserId="2021" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="I have been developing a piece of software that is essentially a web-based GUI interface that configures equipment that will be used in outdoor/field environments (over a wifi network created by the equipment itself). The webgui is responsive across multiple browsers and platforms, but we would like to have a single device that we can ensure the customer will be able to get it to work on, and that we can ship with our equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for an android tablet that will be used in the field in outdoor work environments, but does not need any of the &quot;frills&quot; common to tablets today. All it really needs to do is run this webgui.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Long Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;- solid Wireless card that does not easily disconnect/slow down&#xD;&#xA;- Reliability&#xD;&#xA;- $200 max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Large HD space&#xD;&#xA;- Camera&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers&#xD;&#xA;- HD screen&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- SD Card&#xD;&#xA;- Any other of the common selling points among consumer electronics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently looking at the Lenovo A8-50, but even that has a lot of unnecessary features. The only real alternatives I've found to mass-consumer electronics are the super-rugged tablets used by the military and industries that are based outdoors. This would be an excellent choice, except those are an order of magnitude more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? Perhaps there is a company out there that makes cheap non-consumer tablets meant to be used and locked into specific niche purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="8e56aac9-91f7-4642-b0a1-1a75520fb227" CreationDate="2016-03-15T04:26:38.310" UserId="1" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I have been developing a piece of software that is essentially a web-based GUI interface that configures equipment that will be used in outdoor/field environments (over a wifi network created by the equipment itself). The webgui is responsive across multiple browsers and platforms, but we would like to have a single device that we can ensure the customer will be able to get it to work on, and that we can ship with our equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for an Android tablet that will be used in the field in outdoor work environments, but does not need any of the &quot;frills&quot; common to tablets today. All it really needs to do is run this webgui.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Long Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;- solid Wireless card that does not easily disconnect/slow down&#xD;&#xA;- Reliability&#xD;&#xA;- $200 max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Large HD space&#xD;&#xA;- Camera&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers&#xD;&#xA;- HD screen&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- SD Card&#xD;&#xA;- Any other of the common selling points among consumer electronics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently looking at the Lenovo A8-50, but even that has a lot of unnecessary features. The only real alternatives I've found to mass-consumer electronics are the super-rugged tablets used by the military and industries that are based outdoors. This would be an excellent choice, except those are an order of magnitude more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? Perhaps there is a company out there that makes cheap non-consumer tablets meant to be used and locked into specific niche purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8507" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="8e56aac9-91f7-4642-b0a1-1a75520fb227" CreationDate="2016-03-15T04:26:38.310" UserId="1" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="Android tablet to be used for single dedicated purpose" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="ce0d1bf1-87b9-43b5-9f96-5d6e2364e9ec" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:04:49.403" UserId="1997" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. While the exact product I use costs more than your $200 budget, I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, and there's a lower-power option that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most regular solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, if these are as reliable, they're great value. 40W should be enough for occasional use while camping, 60W will easily be more than enough in an sunny location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack. These don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging. I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, but they cost  $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="0cf248bc-73e7-4d5d-b906-683997da86c0" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:12:05.783" UserId="1997" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. While the exact product I use costs more than your $200 budget, I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, and there's a lower-power option that should give you a few hours laptop use and a charged USB device on a sunny day that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most regular solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, if these are as reliable, they're great value. 40W should be enough for occasional use while camping, 60W will easily be more than enough in an sunny location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack, but direct charging might work better for some laptops. My battery packs don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging, but assuming you're doing outdoors activities during daylight then whatever one does with a laptop while camping after dark, one will be enough for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, and are portable (same size as a paperback book, similar weight to a full water bottle) but they cost $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile. Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only an hour or two's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="65a5e78b-a249-4c3f-a586-80dfa6455ac2" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:17:47.990" UserId="1997" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. While the exact product I use costs more than your $200 budget, I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, and there's a lower-power option that should give you a few hours laptop use and a charged USB device on a sunny day that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40W Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most regular solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, if these are as reliable, they're great value. 40W should be enough for occasional use while camping, 60W will easily be more than enough in an sunny location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack, but direct charging might work better for some laptops. My battery packs don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging, but assuming you're doing outdoors activities during daylight then whatever one does with a laptop while camping after dark, one will be enough for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, and are portable (same size as a paperback book, similar weight to a full water bottle) but they cost $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile. Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only one or two hour's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2287" RevisionGUID="b6ce1bb5-9ac2-497b-a30c-9b8602c782e9" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:57:06.437" UserId="1873" Text="I'm looking to upgrade my old HDD to SSD to improve build times while programming. Two primary concerns are random read/write and lingevity of the disk. The budget is under 400 PLN (I'm from Poland, that's around 100 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to the price I'm currently looking at Intel's 535 240GB or SanDisk Ultra II Plus 240GB. T so Samsung is pretty much out of my budget from what I gathered, but I will welcome any suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2287" RevisionGUID="b6ce1bb5-9ac2-497b-a30c-9b8602c782e9" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:57:06.437" UserId="1873" Text="A 240 GB SSD for a programmer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2287" RevisionGUID="b6ce1bb5-9ac2-497b-a30c-9b8602c782e9" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:57:06.437" UserId="1873" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2288" RevisionGUID="3fbf59a3-c7a9-46eb-8767-bf3f971050ad" CreationDate="2016-03-15T11:10:58.337" UserId="1800" Text="Considering hardware for a gaming laptop. Not building my own, but found a great deal on a machine from last season still sporting a 4720HQ processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing benchmarks between the Haswell 4720HQ and the Skylake 6700HQ seems to suggest they're roughly comparable. The 6700 is, on average, about 5% better but some sites, such as [cpuboss][1], actually suggest the older chip is marginally faster. There are lots of benchmarks and I'm not sure which to trust as regards a machine intended primarily for gaming, but from speed alone the 6700 doesn't appear to be worthwhile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, speed isn't the only improvement in Haswell vs Skylake. Most of the others don't interest me. Better integrated graphics aren't much use in a machine with a dedicated GPU. The support for DDR4 isn't a big deal in a laptop where I'm unlikely to be upgrading the default RAM. The effeciency gains aren't helpful since I spend most of my time plugging in to a power socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The differences in connectivity though, could be a big deal, and that's support for Thunderbolt and USB 3.1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About a year ago there was a big explosion in interest about Thunderbolt, partly because it offered the possibility of running desktop-grade GPUs as an external plug-in to laptops and all kinds of other cool stuff. Right now, I can't ascertain whether this has lead to any tangible use cases or is likely to. I'm not even entirely sure, to be honest, whether you can even buy non-Apple laptops with Thunderbolt ports, or how to find them (it seems to be referred to as USB Type-C in some places).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, is it realistic to go looking for a Skylake laptop with Thunderbolt, with a view to plugging in some monstrous desktop GPU, or some other reason (are the benchmarks lying)? Or should I stick with Haswell for now? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ-vs-Intel-Core-i7-4720HQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8523" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2288" RevisionGUID="3fbf59a3-c7a9-46eb-8767-bf3f971050ad" CreationDate="2016-03-15T11:10:58.337" UserId="1800" Text="Intel i7 4720HQ vs 6700HQ - worth it for Thunderbolt on gaming laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8524" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2288" RevisionGUID="3fbf59a3-c7a9-46eb-8767-bf3f971050ad" CreationDate="2016-03-15T11:10:58.337" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="6914922a-7f55-4378-b90e-3b73a6fc8809" CreationDate="2016-03-15T13:01:30.260" UserId="1971" Comment="added 465 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I have a Surface tablet. And I need to get it's USB signal about 10' away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An active hub 5' away, and that doesn't work. Apparently the tablet doesn't put enough power on the USB to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 2. An active hub next to the tablet and another 5' away. Same problem, cause again the laptop is the power source and doesn't provide enough power to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 3. I've switched both hubs for externally powered hubs, but it turns out that the external power was only for charging things when the hub wasn't plugged into a source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I really need here is an externally powered active hub. I want it to use *it's own power* not the source power to repeat the signal. (And I want to not have to buy 4 more hubs to achieve this.) Does such a thing exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this is also a problem for the Raspberry Pi. Where the power on the USB is insufficient to drive some devices/devices that are far away. It appears a significant enough issue that modifying a hub was considered a good solution: http://hackaday.com/2013/05/25/add-external-power-to-any-usb-hub/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it there are hubs that supplement the power over the USB correctly. Perhaps all I need here is the *right* powered hub." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="6914922a-7f55-4378-b90e-3b73a6fc8809" CreationDate="2016-03-15T13:01:30.260" UserId="1971" Comment="added 465 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2289" RevisionGUID="0ca78dba-f5d2-4743-a589-ebf1658de2f5" CreationDate="2016-03-15T13:41:11.990" UserId="543" Text="The Samsung 840 Evo 250 GB (http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw) is priced at around $115 now. Samsung SSDs are known to be very reliable and I think that if the 850 Evo is out of your budget, the 840 Evo would be your best choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison between 840 Evo and SanDisk Ultra II Plus: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/SanDisk-Ultra-II-240GB-vs-Samsung-840-Evo-250GB/2548vs1594&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison between 840 Evo and Intel 535: &#xD;&#xA;http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/SanDisk-Ultra-II-240GB-vs-Samsung-840-Evo-250GB/2548vs1594" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2252" RevisionGUID="6b661412-68d4-41f5-86bd-3dfbcb321b56" CreationDate="2016-03-15T14:45:05.717" UserId="1369" Comment="Updated answer to fit revised specs and comments section was getting lengthy" Text="I'll keep this as short and as on point as possible:  &#xD;&#xA;Get the [**Samsung Galaxy S4**](http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s4_cdma-5388.php) because it is a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; great android phone with awesome specs, but in a tight budget of under&#xD;&#xA;&gt; $180(may go a little over).    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically $130-180 unlocked second hand, [$150 on a quick amazon search for Straight Talk](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-S4-STRAIGHT-TALK/dp/B013IOLDA0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457662545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Samsung+Galaxy+s4+straight+talk). [New for $208](http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Unlocked-Smartphone-Black/dp/B00S3FEOAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457666668&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samsung+galaxy+s4+straight+talk).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently [$150 new at Walmart for **Verizon**. ](http://www.walmart.com/ip/Verizon-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Prepaid-Smartphone/47090196) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It satisfies all of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Here is a list of things I want it to include:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   uses android OS&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   a good camera(about 13mp camera) 1080p@30fps w/ flash and auto-focus&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   Camera on both sides&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -  Resolution: 1080 x 1920 pixels (will go with a lower if price and other specs make up for it)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   multi-touch is a must&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -  Screen Size: about 4.7-5.2 in.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   At least 2gb of ram&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   Rootable (unlocked bootloader would be a bonus) - *plenty of help available for this popular phone* [e.g. xda developers forums](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2380325)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  -   compatible with Straight Talk &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and also **has super-amoled screen**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously hard to say what 6 hours non-stop use is, but according to specs: stand-by up to 350 hrs (3G), talk time up to 11 hrs (3G) and music play up to 69 hrs. It does have a **removable battery** so for an $10-15 extra you can get an official Samsung battery and effectively double the battery life. You're probably better off getting an **official Samsung Adaptive Fast Charger** in a bricks and mortar store.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;Don't really understand what you mean by&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  An led notification bar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that helps.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Addendum (so the comments section doesn't get too lengthy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the required spec changes from 2GB RAM to 3GB, no upper limit on screen size and assuming this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;but in a tight budget of under $180(may go a little over). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;means ~10% over, so ~$200, it looks like the Samsung Note 3 (obviously 2nd hand) and the [Xiamoi Mi4 (non-LTE, $160)](http://www.gearbest.com/cell-phones/pp_155566.html) are your only candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you stretch again by $20 you can find the [Xiamoi Note 3](http://www.honorbuy.com/598-xiaomi-redmi-note-3-3gb-ram-32gb-silver.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For me personally, if it was taking me a long time to find a Samsung Note 3 that I really liked, I'd stretch out the budget and get the Xiamoi Note 3 to end the wait. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2290" RevisionGUID="1e31c92a-1ba6-4cfe-ae77-67f0e240f74d" CreationDate="2016-03-15T15:22:51.257" UserId="951" Text="Moving from HDD to any new SSD will be noticable, while the differences between particular SSD tend to be slight. I actually did the same (also ssd upgrade for programming) and just went with the cheapest SSD at the time (Kingston), because my laptop only supported SATA II (300 MB/s). If you have SATA III and want something premium, the Samsung 850 250 GB is your best bet imho, and you can get it for 360 zł in poland: [see allegro][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://allegro.pl/listing/listing.php?order=d&amp;bmatch=base-relevance-ele-1-3-0229&amp;search_scope=&amp;string=Samsung%20850%20evo%20250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2291" RevisionGUID="5e511b2f-d184-4749-97bb-0b5b7c79537c" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:49:48.580" UserId="975" Text="When shopping for external drives recently I noticed that the majority of the USB3 drives on the shelf were 5400RPM. I was surprised because I normally consider a 5400 drive to be &quot;ludicrously slow&quot; but USB3 to be &quot;pretty darn fast&quot; (those are the technical terms for it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically what I want to know is, if I'm looking at USB3 external drives, would the drive or the channel be the limiting factor for one of these? I want something on the &quot;pretty darn fast&quot; side of things but making the jump to an SSD is a huge price difference, and read/write speeds for SSDs seem to vary dramatically from model-to-model whereas spinning disks seem more standardized (from my experience)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8532" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2291" RevisionGUID="5e511b2f-d184-4749-97bb-0b5b7c79537c" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:49:48.580" UserId="975" Text="External HD - 5400RPM over USB3 - Which is the limiting factor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2291" RevisionGUID="5e511b2f-d184-4749-97bb-0b5b7c79537c" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:49:48.580" UserId="975" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2289" RevisionGUID="e26d0caa-f62d-4ee9-8495-d13dfbe09559" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:56:59.623" UserId="155" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="The [Samsung 840 Evo 250GB][1] is priced at around $115 now. Samsung SSDs are known to be very reliable and I think that if the 850 Evo is out of your budget, the 840 Evo would be your best choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison between 840 Evo and SanDisk Ultra II Plus [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison between 840 Evo and Intel 535 [here][3].&#xA;&#xA;[1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw&#xA;[2]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/SanDisk-Ultra-II-240GB-vs-Samsung-840-Evo-250GB/2548vs1594&#xA;[3]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/SanDisk-Ultra-II-240GB-vs-Samsung-840-Evo-250GB/2548vs1594" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="d6f58bfb-030c-41ec-bbae-f93d3aee35c1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:00:28.353" UserId="155" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I have a Surface tablet. And I need to get it's USB signal about 10' away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An active hub 5' away, and that doesn't work. Apparently the tablet doesn't put enough power on the USB to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 2. An active hub next to the tablet and another 5' away. Same problem, cause again the laptop is the power source and doesn't provide enough power to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 3. I've switched both hubs for externally powered hubs, but it turns out that the external power was only for charging things when the hub wasn't plugged into a source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I really need here is an externally powered active hub. I want it to use *it's own power* not the source power to repeat the signal. (And I want to not have to buy 4 more hubs to achieve this.) Does such a thing exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this is also a problem for the Raspberry Pi. Where the power on the USB is insufficient to drive some devices/devices that are far away. It appears a significant enough issue that [modifying a hub was considered a good solution](http://hackaday.com/2013/05/25/add-external-power-to-any-usb-hub).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it there are hubs that supplement the power over the USB correctly. Perhaps all I need here is the *right* powered hub." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8536" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="d6f58bfb-030c-41ec-bbae-f93d3aee35c1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:00:28.353" UserId="155" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8537" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2290" RevisionGUID="e927cd74-b6b2-41b5-8d44-a56e9699b049" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:03:59.093" UserId="951" Comment="added 126 characters in body" Text="Moving from HDD to any new SSD will be noticable, while the differences between particular SSD tend to be slight. I actually did the same (also ssd upgrade for programming) and just went with the cheapest SSD at the time (Kingston), because my laptop only supported SATA II (300 MB/s). If you have SATA III and want something premium, the Samsung 850 250 GB is your best bet imho, and you can get it for 360 zł in poland: [see allegro][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See benchmarks attached:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung 850 Pro VS 840 Evo Benchmark Test][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung 850 pro vs 850 evo benchmark test][3] (do not go with pro, it's for other use cases and you'd be overpaying)&#xD;&#xA; - Also see SSD buyers [guide from Linus][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://allegro.pl/listing/listing.php?order=d&amp;bmatch=base-relevance-ele-1-3-0229&amp;search_scope=&amp;string=Samsung%20850%20evo%20250&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6ZZWg4BYRY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YsNssB0QPo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2290" RevisionGUID="a8654436-8048-425e-bfaa-1e9c55e7decc" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:16:19.173" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="Moving from HDD to any new SSD will be noticable, while the differences between particular SSD tend to be slight. I actually did the same (also ssd upgrade for programming) and just went with the cheapest SSD at the time (Kingston), because my laptop only supported SATA II (300 MB/s). If you have SATA III and want something premium, the Samsung 850 250 GB is your best bet imho, and you can get it for 360 zł in poland: [see allegro][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See benchmarks:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung 850 Pro VS 840 Evo Benchmark Test][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung 850 pro vs 850 evo benchmark test][3] (do not go with pro, it's for other use cases and you'd be overpaying)&#xD;&#xA; - Also see SSD buyers [guide from Linus][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://allegro.pl/listing/listing.php?order=d&amp;bmatch=base-relevance-ele-1-3-0229&amp;search_scope=&amp;string=Samsung%20850%20evo%20250&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6ZZWg4BYRY&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YsNssB0QPo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8539" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="993b4abe-9ff7-4e1a-8344-769ae63c673f" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:36:53.677" UserId="1971" Comment="Rollback to [6914922a-7f55-4378-b90e-3b73a6fc8809]" Text="I have a Surface tablet. And I need to get it's USB signal about 10' away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An active hub 5' away, and that doesn't work. Apparently the tablet doesn't put enough power on the USB to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 2. An active hub next to the tablet and another 5' away. Same problem, cause again the laptop is the power source and doesn't provide enough power to supply the hub 5' away.&#xD;&#xA; 3. I've switched both hubs for externally powered hubs, but it turns out that the external power was only for charging things when the hub wasn't plugged into a source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I really need here is an externally powered active hub. I want it to use *it's own power* not the source power to repeat the signal. (And I want to not have to buy 4 more hubs to achieve this.) Does such a thing exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this is also a problem for the Raspberry Pi. Where the power on the USB is insufficient to drive some devices/devices that are far away. It appears a significant enough issue that modifying a hub was considered a good solution: http://hackaday.com/2013/05/25/add-external-power-to-any-usb-hub/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it there are hubs that supplement the power over the USB correctly. Perhaps all I need here is the *right* powered hub." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8540" PostHistoryTypeId="9" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="993b4abe-9ff7-4e1a-8344-769ae63c673f" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:36:53.677" UserId="1971" Comment="Rollback to [6914922a-7f55-4378-b90e-3b73a6fc8809]" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8541" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2204" RevisionGUID="c9253a58-2f55-44a4-9a89-1ec30798d1c0" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:37:01.950" UserId="1971" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="19c37f55-92d2-48a7-b75c-61b5e9d3c4c3" CreationDate="2016-03-15T21:27:44.937" UserId="2027" Text="I'm looking to have a mid-level virtualization and media server for an extended home environment, and I am looking to spend in the neighborhood of $1,000 (+/-$100) for the core components (MOBO, CPU, and Memory), as I have a case, a single power supply, and several HDD/SSD options already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to AMD, but I'm quite open to Intel if the costs seem to make sense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will these components work together?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Motherboard: [SUPERMICRO MBD-X9DRL-IF-B](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813182670), mostly because I found the processor and decided I want a dual processor board.&#xD;&#xA; * CPU: [Xeon E5-2660 2.2GHz](http://www.amazon.com//dp/B0090EMI48) x 2, as it's fairly highly rated value per dollar on [PassMark CPU listings](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_list.php).&#xD;&#xA; * Memory: [16 GB (2 x 8GB) SDRAM DDR3 1333](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231556) x 4, for 64GB total Non-ECC ram, to provide for a decent amount of ram for each of 2-6 users with some left over for overhead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found what I believe is the [manual for the MOBO](http://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/C606_602/MNL-1298.pdf), and page `2-14` is slightly confusing to me, on the &quot;Populating UDIMM (ECC/Non-ECC) Memory Modules&quot; table: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it saying I can only use 1333 RAM with this processor, if it's non-ECC? (I think it is...)&#xD;&#xA;* Can I use all 8 sticks? or is there a limit of 4 for non-ECC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I use faster ram (like 1666?) Are there any obvious things I'm missing? And of course, are there any improvements I could make, providing for up to six simultaneous users fairly transparently, but basically maintaining my budget?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="19c37f55-92d2-48a7-b75c-61b5e9d3c4c3" CreationDate="2016-03-15T21:27:44.937" UserId="2027" Text="Will these components work together?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="19c37f55-92d2-48a7-b75c-61b5e9d3c4c3" CreationDate="2016-03-15T21:27:44.937" UserId="2027" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="754cab3b-c37a-4b86-9834-8fccbff6d94f" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:50:38.440" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2293" RevisionGUID="bfa764c9-ea0e-4287-ae29-0cb90f4a2b9d" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:12:08.120" UserId="595" Text="The [Cable Matters 10 Meter(33ft) USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable][1] is what you're looking for. It doesn't come with a power adapter, but unlike most USB repeaters, it can be used with one.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read that this repeater works great with this [generic 5V adapter][3], which means you can have a fully powered USB hub at the end of the cable with no problems. These two will set you back about $40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize you were looking for a much shorter cable, but they don't really make 10' cables with power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458089744&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb%20repeater%20powered&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UqXjY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-External-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1T3MED1R2DDTC1PX5MDQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2291" RevisionGUID="a7af24f2-9ed5-4d69-b19b-fecab063c55f" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:24:05.053" UserId="975" Comment="Clarified to keep on-topic" Text="When shopping for external drives recently I noticed that the majority of the USB3 drives on the shelf were 5400RPM. I was surprised because I normally consider a 5400 drive to be &quot;ludicrously slow&quot; but USB3 to be &quot;pretty darn fast&quot; (those are the technical terms for it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm looking for a drive that can handle reasonably fast transfers of large files (like system backups, movies, etc) at or around USB3 speeds, will a 5400RPM drive do the job? Or will it be the limiting factor such that I might as well use USB2 or pay the extra money (2-3x the price) for a faster drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2294" RevisionGUID="5f8b4e81-736d-4d96-a4f5-a024d8c8b5a6" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:46:14.937" UserId="2030" Text="Note: I saw you specified a Linux operating system and you can do that with my suggestion, but it'll give you greater flexibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend to try out an **Apple Mac mini** &amp; your Bluetooth Keyboard of choice. I am using a Mac mini myself, but have no experience with the features for blind people. I have repeatedly used some screen-guidance (VoiceOver) and know Apple does pay attention to these features, but apart from that I can only refer you to their specifications: http://www.apple.com/au/accessibility/osx/#vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It's within your specified budget (although on the higher end).&#xD;&#xA; 2. They have decent built-in audio speakers (but no microphone, which is ok, but not ideal, maybe).&#xD;&#xA; 3. You can easily run them without a monitor (I do).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think one advantage is that you could try out Mac OS X to see if it fits your needs. They also have a pretty good return policy, so if you don't like it, just return it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also install any operating system you want - it's a bit more work for Linux, but it's manageable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I mentioned before it'll also allow you to switch between operating systems, if you ever see the need. Hope this helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2295" RevisionGUID="21c9f48d-1ce8-4a7c-844b-bbcaacb52ad6" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:59:53.610" UserId="2030" Text="If you want something really basic and cheap, I'll recommend a Raspberry Pi 3, which was recently released. It has built-in support for **WLAN** and **Bluetooth 4.1**, which is great for such a cheap device. You'll want to attach some external storage HD or get a pretty decent MicroSD card, depending on your storage needs. Western Digital just released a great 314 GB external hard drive that is made for the Raspberry Pi, but others will do just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could attach bluetooth speakers, like the Bose SoundLink Mini, which in my personal experience has amazing sound quality - and since you'll have plenty of left-over budget it might be a nice option as you probably want a high quality audio experience more than anything else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install the default Raspbian (based on Debian) or other Linux variants on there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not an x86 architecture, but uses an ARM processor (1.2 GHz quad-core). So, have a look around if that's something you are ok with. In my experience it'll work really well for all the tasks specified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also really small and can be hidden out of the way in the corner really easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-3-on-sale/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/03/western-digital-makes-a-46-314gb-hard-drive-just-for-the-raspberry-pi/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://worldwide.bose.com/axa/en_au/web/soundlink_mini_ii/page.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="41140fe1-b719-4d81-a061-e5b4a3b77b9d" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:17:28.867" UserId="2030" Text="I am looking for a simple solution for a (stereo) speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a monitor that takes HDMI input from an AppleTV (3rd Gen). The Monitor does **not** have build in speakers, neither has the AppleTV. The TV **does have** a standard audio-out for headphones (3.5 mm). The AppleTV has a digital audio-out and bluetooth. It doesn't really matter which way I go, however I would prefer **not** to have to attach the speaker to a power outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Are there speakers (like headphones) that work without any power consumption at reasonable quality / sound level?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, which speaker would you recommend that **doesn't take up a lot of space** and ideally I can **attach to the monitor** somehow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may also consider bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries, if you think they are the best option, but I would prefer suggestions for the two different variants above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8551" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="41140fe1-b719-4d81-a061-e5b4a3b77b9d" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:17:28.867" UserId="2030" Text="Small Speaker for audio-out from 24&quot; monitor or AppleTV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="41140fe1-b719-4d81-a061-e5b4a3b77b9d" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:17:28.867" UserId="2030" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="d476ffcd-cf81-472b-afa8-f82ff1a3f5aa" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:21:36.783" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8555" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="c356cf91-a6d5-48eb-8855-82f97c226419" CreationDate="2016-03-16T04:03:40.030" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a simple solution for a (stereo) speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a monitor that takes HDMI input from an AppleTV (3rd Gen). The Monitor does **not** have build in speakers, neither has the AppleTV. The TV **does have** a standard audio-out for headphones (3.5 mm). The AppleTV has a digital audio-out and bluetooth. It doesn't really matter which way I go, however I would prefer **not** to have to attach the speaker to a power outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Are there speakers (like headphones) that work without any power consumption at reasonable quality / sound level?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, which speaker would you recommend that **doesn't take up a lot of space** and ideally I can **attach to the monitor** somehow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may also consider bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries, if you think they are the best option, but I would prefer suggestions for the two different variants above." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2298" RevisionGUID="849f1541-af8f-40ea-8ae2-55dbe944c4ce" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:56:46.157" UserId="48" Text="The best bud earphones I've ever used where those which came with the Nokia N8. The satisfy all of your primary requirements, except #4 (the warranty). However, I would imagine that you could pick some up second hand, quite cheaply, and so the warranty would not really be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nokia N8 earphones][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see from the photo, they will even satisfy your second optional requirement, as the controller is most useful. No LEDs though, I'm afraid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound was excellent, they were hard wearing and rugged, and the volume control worked with my iPhone 5. I have gone through *so* many flimsy iPhone earbuds that I no longer even bother thinking about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm sure that you could find some on eBay at a most reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only down side is that if the connections in the jack go bust, they are a little bit hard to fix, but that applies to most bud earphones these days. Gone are the days of easily fixable 1/4&quot; jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side note, I ended up losing mine in a Bangkok nightclub, unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/KZFaS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2271" RevisionGUID="8b1c8db6-28e9-485e-86c1-7ce7a4fc2b67" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:09:36.640" UserId="48" Comment="Removed all support" Text="I would suggest a $9.95 Dynex DXHUB23 4-Port USB Hub. Failing that, you could employ a USB 2.0 active repeater cable. These abound aplenty, just have a [search on google][3]. For example, for $14.95, on Amazon, there is the [PTC Premium 33ft / 10 Meter USB 2.0 Active Repeater / Extension Cable][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to extend a long way (20m) then you could employ the [USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Active Extension Repeater Cable (A-A M/F), 20M (65-ft.)][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/webhp?q=usb%202.0%20active%20repeater%20cable&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-Premium-Active-Repeater-Extension/dp/B003NUIK4M&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.tripplite.com/usb-2.0-high-speed-active-extension-repeater-cable-a-male-female-20m-65-ft~U02620M/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8562" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2271" RevisionGUID="0197f426-c40a-4bb7-a66a-7592dafdb889" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:16:20.640" UserId="48" Comment="Removed all support" Text="I would suggest a $9.95 Dynex DXHUB23 4-Port USB Hub. Failing that, you could employ a USB 2.0 active repeater cable. These abound aplenty, just have a [search on google][1]. For example, for $14.95, on Amazon, there is the [PTC Premium 33ft / 10 Meter USB 2.0 Active Repeater / Extension Cable][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![10 Meter USB 2.0 Active Repeatre][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to extend a long way (20m) then you could employ the [USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Active Extension Repeater Cable (A-A M/F), 20M (65-ft.)][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Active Extension Repeater Cable (A-A M/F), 20M][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/webhp?q=usb%202.0%20active%20repeater%20cable&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-Premium-Active-Repeater-Extension/dp/B003NUIK4M&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/h66Te.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tripplite.com/usb-2.0-high-speed-active-extension-repeater-cable-a-male-female-20m-65-ft~U02620M/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjmpY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2287" RevisionGUID="c928be57-7442-4be8-aee6-1631bff0ecd1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:14:53.993" UserId="1873" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to upgrade my old HDD to SSD to improve build times while programming. Two primary concerns are random read/write and lingevity of the disk. The budget is under 400 PLN (I'm from Poland, that's around 100 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to the price I'm currently looking at Intel's 535 240GB or SanDisk Ultra II Plus 240GB. T so Samsung is pretty much out of my budget from what I gathered, but I will welcome any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;Forgot to include the interface: SATA 3, will most likely go with ASRock's [H170M Pro4][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H170M%20Pro4/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8570" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2271" RevisionGUID="d7658f76-81b0-4cd0-817f-ed24f5ffa29b" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:16:06.407" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2273" RevisionGUID="6438c93a-8230-4d09-a5c6-5efd61f93bcb" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:17:23.633" UserId="48" Comment="Inlined the link" Text="The [LEVO Deluxe iPad Floor Stand][1] can let you angle the tablet any way you want, put it parallel to the ground so you can lie on your back and look upwards on it. You can turn the tablet you turn your head or elevate your head on a pillow. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something ergonomically the same as the above but which can handle a much larger monitor like a 27 inch all in one computer or a 27 inch touch monitor. A lot of the monitor arms I have googled don't seem to have the ability to be parallel to the floor and constantly/easily rotated slightly/adjusted with your hands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term goal I hope to have a massive screen above me and lie down/adjust its angle without moving much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So right now, with the Amazon link above, I could accomplish what I'm looking for, for a 12 inch tablet. 27 inch seems like the next goal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Surface-Tablets-Readers-Gunmetal/dp/B00DYTM9K8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457932858&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=levo%20arm%20stand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8572" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2273" RevisionGUID="6438c93a-8230-4d09-a5c6-5efd61f93bcb" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:17:23.633" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 8 edit id of 410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2287" RevisionGUID="b0d9163b-3488-4bbb-a05f-7f4196245f67" CreationDate="2016-03-16T12:41:26.880" UserId="1873" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to upgrade my old HDD to SSD to improve build times while programming. Two primary concerns are random read/write and lingevity of the disk. The budget is under 400 PLN (I'm from Poland, that's around 100 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to the price I'm currently looking at Intel's 535 240GB or SanDisk Ultra II Plus 240GB. T so Samsung is pretty much out of my budget from what I gathered, but I will welcome any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;Forgot to include the interface: SATA 3, will most likely go with ASRock's [H170M Pro4][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2:&#xD;&#xA;I forgot to add, this will be used to (among others) build OpenEmbedded which takes ~50GB for a full image build. Not that it really matters, with 75TB meaning 1,5k full rebuilds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H170M%20Pro4/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8581" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="3c885792-794c-49b5-bd5d-e6c4fc975eba" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:26:21.827" UserId="2027" Comment="Restructured and refined question... hopefully this will keep the downvote fairy at bay" Text="_[Edit] restated question trying to emulate a different format found in [this request](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/239/) more closely._&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to have a mid-level virtualization and media server for an extended home environment, and I am looking to spend in the neighborhood of $1,000 (+/-$100) for the core components (MOBO, CPU, and Memory), as I have a case, a single power supply, and several HDD/SSD options on hand already. It will be running Windows Server with either server or client OSes for 2-6 simultaneous home users. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to AMD architecture, but I'm quite open to Intel if the costs seem to make sense, in terms of power to run it vs initial layout. Since the architecture is closely intertwined with the CPU and MOBO, I'm not sure how it's practical to separate the two, but I would say __let's focus on the motherboard__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__Requirements__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * At least 32 GB (preferably 64GB) of non-ECC RAM (because I'm not made of money)&#xD;&#xA; * At least 8 cores/threads&#xD;&#xA; * Gigbit LAN (preferably 2 ports) or , for NAS access&#xD;&#xA; * no bigger than Full ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__Not Important__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of USB, SATA or PCI-E (whatever comes with is probably fine)&#xD;&#xA; * Graphics interface (onboard or not doesn't matter to me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8582" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="3c885792-794c-49b5-bd5d-e6c4fc975eba" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:26:21.827" UserId="2027" Comment="Restructured and refined question... hopefully this will keep the downvote fairy at bay" Text="Motherboard for mid-level virtualization server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="a0024af9-9744-4791-ab3b-9fda1f098914" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:26:42.363" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I need a small monitor that can display only 5 digits. The monitor needs to show number of visits to my site in real-time - every time someone visits, it needs to increase by one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought to create an app, that queries the server every 10 seconds, and checks the new number of visitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question: Do you know about a monitor that can be programmed from the command line?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of what I found in Ebay &amp; DealExtreme you need to program the LED monitor by software - you cannot add it to your program." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8584" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="a0024af9-9744-4791-ab3b-9fda1f098914" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:26:42.363" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="LED Monitor for 5 digits (connected to USB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1276" RevisionGUID="a0024af9-9744-4791-ab3b-9fda1f098914" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:26:42.363" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 1000 edit id of 411" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8590" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2199" RevisionGUID="90286b12-c919-4f02-a166-e96ceab0b27f" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:47:20.443" UserId="1960" Comment="18" />
  <row Id="8591" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="6789414d-48de-4be5-8a9f-0a82a1bf3dc3" CreationDate="2016-03-16T15:08:17.803" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="4b18376e-3a68-488d-8604-00fe36d278c1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:31:13.630" UserId="2035" Text="What is the best and cheapest flash drive that's most likely going to work to turn into a &quot;BadUSB&quot; BADUSB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the controller must be Phison but I can't find anything for under 40$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is I can't find any Flash Drive that's compatible to have the firmware changed. I found a couple but there +80$ . Do they have to be Phison or is there another flash drive compatible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="4b18376e-3a68-488d-8604-00fe36d278c1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:31:13.630" UserId="2035" Text="Flashdrive Compatiable for BADUSB use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="4b18376e-3a68-488d-8604-00fe36d278c1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:31:13.630" UserId="2035" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="b4092469-c95d-493d-bc9f-d67fba573e1c" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:39:42.833" UserId="2035" Comment="added 269 characters in body" Text="What is the best and cheapest flash drive that's most likely going to work to turn into a &quot;BadUSB&quot; BADUSB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the controller must be Phison but I can't find anything for under 40$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is I can't find any Flash Drive that's compatible to have the firmware changed. I found a couple but there +80$ . Do they have to be Phison or is there another flash drive compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is some confusion with a possible duplicate of my other question, I had to repost it because of it being on hold, I had edited it (Which should have taken it off &quot;on-hold&quot; but was never touched. It is There-for able to be reposted as it is no longer active." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8600" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="1393e4e8-e2d9-417d-a5e5-da8e5c61f3cb" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:04:46.183" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[2301],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8601" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="2f8fe304-a130-4c02-b9ea-229f90bdf867" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:05:08.437" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2301/flashdrive-compatible-for-badusb-use" />
  <row Id="8603" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="2303" RevisionGUID="5304b2b1-e168-462a-aaaf-72a6f73d1c2e" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:05:08.437" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="910b24bf-d243-48fa-8aab-81714f12c79a" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:13:04.863" UserId="711" Text="I have a Fujitsu P1620 ([CNET Review][1], 2008) that I want to add the [Broadcom Crystal HD][2] ([Amazon][3]) board to.  That means I have to re/move the mini PCIe Wifi card.  The P1620 has a [PCMCIA][4] slot, so I've been looking into finding a flush Wi-Fi card where the antenna doesn't stick out.  The problem is, I can't seem to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a PCMCIA (aka Cardbus) Wi-Fi adapter that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fits into a PCMCIA slot&#xD;&#xA; - 2.4Ghz b/g/n support&#xD;&#xA; - 150mbps&#xD;&#xA; - flush with the edge of the slot, or very close to it&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced &lt;$25 incl shipping&#xD;&#xA; - Windows support/drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5Ghz support&#xD;&#xA; - 300mpbs&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Well supported on Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Promiscuous mode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Ubiquiti][5] on Amazon appears to fit the bill, but it's really expensive.  Which probably stems from it's high end name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively a series of parts and adapters (PCMCIA, Expresscard, mini PCIe, etc) to fit into the slot would be fine.  The Wi-Fi antenna is still in the chassis, or I could run a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB PCMCIA + USB WiFi**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to not use USB, but will do so as a last resort.  USB is supposedly heavy on the CPU and I don't know if I will have enough room/ports for a suitable USB adapter and card in the case.  If you think you can make it work, feel free to suggest that solution, but be detailed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to do something like this, I would want to modify the card adapter so the USB Wi-Fi adapter sat further in, and potentially rig up some form of external antenna.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/products/fujitsu-lifebook-p1620/#!&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadcom_Crystal_HD&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM970015-Crystal-Decoder-AW-VD920H/dp/B00A66PCTM/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_card&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PCMCIA-Cardbus-WLAN-802-11a/dp/B004EHUVHW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458153957&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pcmcia%20wifi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8605" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="910b24bf-d243-48fa-8aab-81714f12c79a" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:13:04.863" UserId="711" Text="Wi-Fi PCMCIA card that is flush or some sort od adapter(s)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8606" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="910b24bf-d243-48fa-8aab-81714f12c79a" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:13:04.863" UserId="711" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8607" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="40c12f2c-9f0d-4c49-8c3d-bdf5c4a33db1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:51:50.617" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8609" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="9e421443-a77a-4559-8985-ec73ed329c7d" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:02:30.997" UserId="711" Comment="Additional info" Text="I have a Fujitsu P1620 ([CNET Review][1], 2008) that I want to add the [Broadcom Crystal HD][2] ([Amazon][3]) board to.  That means I have to re/move the mini PCIe Wi-Fi card.  The P1620 has a [PCMCIA][4] slot, so I've been looking into finding a flush Wi-Fi card where the antenna doesn't stick out.  The problem is, I can't seem to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a PCMCIA (aka Cardbus) Wi-Fi adapter that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fits into a PCMCIA slot&#xD;&#xA; - 2.4Ghz b/g/n support&#xD;&#xA; - 150mbps&#xD;&#xA; - flush with the edge of the slot, or very close to it&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced &lt;$25 incl shipping&#xD;&#xA; - Windows support/drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5Ghz support&#xD;&#xA; - 300mpbs&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Well supported on Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Promiscuous mode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Ubiquiti][5] on Amazon appears to fit the bill, but it's really expensive.  Which probably stems from it's high end name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively a series of parts and adapters (PCMCIA, Expresscard, mini PCIe, etc) to fit into the slot would be fine.  The Wi-Fi antenna is still in the chassis (could be reused), or I could run a new one in the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB PCMCIA + USB WiFi**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to not use USB, but will do so as a last resort.  USB is supposedly heavy on the CPU and I don't know if I will have enough room/ports for a suitable USB adapter and card in the case.  If you think you can make it work, feel free to suggest that solution, but be detailed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to do something like this, I would want to modify the card adapter so the USB Wi-Fi adapter sat further in, and potentially rig up some form of external antenna or connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edits/additions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][6] would be a perfect form factor and antenna management system.  This particular card uses a different networking standard than is common today, so it won't work for my purposes.  This type of antennae seems popular for the cell cards, but I can't find any for Wi-Fi G or N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A Wi-Fi version of [this][7] would be awesome.  Sadly, I was unable to locate one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I snagged a cheap Ubiquiti (listed above) on eBay, but I would still like to hear other solutions.  The Ubiquiti seems to be [supported by Linux,][8] but I will have to engineer a protector for the antennae connectors, but that won't be too bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/products/fujitsu-lifebook-p1620/#!&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadcom_Crystal_HD&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM970015-Crystal-Decoder-AW-VD920H/dp/B00A66PCTM/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_card&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PCMCIA-Cardbus-WLAN-802-11a/dp/B004EHUVHW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458153957&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pcmcia%20wifi&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BreezeCom-Breezenet-PCMCIA-SA-PCR-Wireless-802-11-LAN-Card-New-/351252445527?hash=item51c846f957:g:46UAAOSwnDxUijx9&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hidden-Inside-USB-2-0-Bluetooth-Wireless-to-PCMCIA-PC-Card-CardBus-Adapter-/251666257311?hash=item3a987a559f:g:COIAAOSwRLZULqWx&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.backtrack-linux.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10338" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2305" RevisionGUID="0956107c-99cc-44a2-b455-6b25aa3516f3" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:24:46.920" UserId="1369" Text="High spec Haswells and Broadwells are going for absolute bargains right now and are excellent machines for most people that want very good gaming with normal work/social use cases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you primarily want to game on your laptop then, **if you don't want to wait and can find the 6700HQ (or something else) with something like a GTX 970M and a Thunderbolt 3 port *[(preferably more)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPwSP_5bhc0)*, then go for it. That should last you 2 years by which time there'll be much more desktop external GPUs to upgrade to via Thunderbolt 3**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; About a year ago there was a big explosion in interest about&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt, partly because it offered the possibility of running&#xD;&#xA;&gt; desktop-grade GPUs as an external plug-in to laptops and all kinds of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; other cool stuff. Right now, I can't ascertain whether this has lead&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to any tangible use cases or is likely to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give an example (for non-hardcore gamers), [Acer](https://youtu.be/TeWFT1R-LHA) will be releasing a dock which features an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M graphics card, two DisplayPorts, a HDMI port, three Type A USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and an Ethernet port. Expected to be about €300, likely to be tied to Acer laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For serious desktop graphics cards, a number of enclosures are out now or just around the corner that take a full PCI-E x16 slotted card. Thunderbolt 3.0 doesn't nearly have the same bandwidth as PCI-E x16 and this does lead to a performance hit compared to a *desktop* (Asus say 1-5% for theirs); but a bit of perspective: you're running a desktop graphics card on your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus ROG XG Station, as in a YouTube link above, tied to Acer laptops. Probably GPU manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Razer have Core***, which is a docking station for their Blade Stealth and has a built-in 500W power supply (supports a 350W GPU), four USB 3.0 ports and Ethernet port. Is GPU and PC manufacturer agnostic, expected to ship in April for ~$500 (possibly $400 with a Blade Stealth).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD are working on XConnect (with Razer), intended to be PC manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm not even entirely sure, to be honest, whether you can even buy&#xD;&#xA;&gt; non-Apple laptops with Thunderbolt ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 is no pricey passing technology like Thunderbolt 1 &amp; 2 before it. Nor should it ever be thought of as an Apple feature. Major manufactures have already released laptops with Thunderbolt 3 for their higher priced offers and only more will follow suit. Here are only [*some*](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/products?tid=All&amp;field_company_nid=All&amp;field_prod_os_value_many_to_one=All&amp;field_prod_tb_version_value_many_to_one=tbv3) examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2296" RevisionGUID="717279a2-2ccd-41a2-b495-0878c35b8c71" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:32:47.293" UserId="2030" Comment="added link to video with example of what I'm looking for" Text="I am looking for a simple solution for a (stereo) speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a monitor that takes HDMI input from an AppleTV (3rd Gen). The Monitor does **not** have build in speakers, neither has the AppleTV. The TV **does have** a standard audio-out for headphones (3.5 mm). The AppleTV has a digital audio-out and bluetooth. It doesn't really matter which way I go, however I would prefer **not** to have to attach the speaker to a power outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Are there speakers (like headphones) that work without any power consumption at reasonable quality / sound level?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, which speaker would you recommend that **doesn't take up a lot of space** and ideally I can **attach to the monitor** somehow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may also consider bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries, if you think they are the best option, but I would prefer suggestions for the two different variants above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*After a little bit of research I'll try to use more precise terminology:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for passive speakers without an amplifier. Similar to this video, but maybe a little less self-made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJRh43flvQ8&#xD;&#xA;They should also be smaller than that and ideally attach to a monitor. They will primarily be for watching TV-Shows and Movies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8612" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2305" RevisionGUID="ed0b24a5-54be-46a1-b372-7a5eda34b8f4" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:33:43.273" UserId="1369" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="High spec Haswells and Broadwells are going for absolute bargains right now and are excellent machines for most people that want very good gaming with normal work/social use cases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you primarily want to game on your laptop then, **if you don't want to wait and can find the 6700HQ (or something else) with something like a GTX 970M and a Thunderbolt 3 port *[(preferably more)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPwSP_5bhc0)*, then go for it. That should last you 2 years by which time there'll be much more desktop external GPUs to upgrade to via Thunderbolt 3**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; About a year ago there was a big explosion in interest about&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt, partly because it offered the possibility of running&#xD;&#xA;&gt; desktop-grade GPUs as an external plug-in to laptops and all kinds of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; other cool stuff. Right now, I can't ascertain whether this has lead&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to any tangible use cases or is likely to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give an example (for non-hardcore gamers), [Acer](https://youtu.be/TeWFT1R-LHA) will be releasing a dock which features an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M graphics card, two DisplayPorts, a HDMI port, three Type A USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and an Ethernet port. Expected to be about €300, likely to be tied to Acer laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For serious desktop graphics cards, a number of enclosures are out now or just around the corner that take a full PCI-E x16 slotted card. Thunderbolt 3.0 doesn't nearly have the same bandwidth as PCI-E x16 and this does lead to a performance hit compared to a *desktop* (Asus say 1-5% fps hit for theirs); but a bit of perspective: you're running a desktop graphics card on your laptop :-O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus ROG XG Station, as in a YouTube link above, tied to Acer laptops. Probably GPU manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Razer have Core***, which is a docking station for their Blade Stealth and has a built-in 500W power supply (supports a 350W GPU), four USB 3.0 ports and Ethernet port. Is GPU and PC manufacturer agnostic, expected to ship in April for ~$500 (possibly $400 with a Blade Stealth).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD are working on XConnect (with Razer), intended to be PC manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm not even entirely sure, to be honest, whether you can even buy&#xD;&#xA;&gt; non-Apple laptops with Thunderbolt ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 is no pricey passing technology like Thunderbolt 1 &amp; 2 before it. Nor should it ever be thought of as an Apple feature. Major manufactures have already released laptops with Thunderbolt 3 for their higher priced offers and only more will follow suit. Here are only [*some*](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/products?tid=All&amp;field_company_nid=All&amp;field_prod_os_value_many_to_one=All&amp;field_prod_tb_version_value_many_to_one=tbv3) examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2306" RevisionGUID="6368003d-350a-4b47-a7dc-55c53a2854d7" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:25:08.873" UserId="2030" Text="As suggested in the video link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJRh43flvQ8) passive speakers could be the solution. They usually come with basic audio wires and you would have to attach these to a 3.5mm audio jack yourself. They may also be called *Cabinet* or *Bookshelf* Loudspeaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Impedance of these speakers is very important to avoid creating an electrical short. The suggestion is 16 ohm with 8 ohm possibly also working, but it's not without risk from my understanding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speakers brand in that video is called: **Apart** and they have different product lines available: e.g. SDX / SDI / SDQ / Ovo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another similar example would be **JBL** Control, but that appears to only have a 4 Ohm resistor, making it a bit of a risky choice I think. Another one is *Audioengine* P4 and you'll find plenty in any audio-hardware selling shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main problem (for me) with these is the price and size. They are more higher end products, not exactly small (understandably so if you are looking for high quality sound). Naturally, they also don't come with a 3.5 mm audio jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also found these: **Pyle** Home PCB4BK 200W 4 inch Mini Cube, which are not as pricy, have 8 Ohm impedance and good reviews. There are a bunch of those cube shaped speakers available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, you can't use any of these with a digital audio output - well, you would have to put a FiiO converter in between, which will need power and make this sort of pointless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most out of the box solutions on the smaller side are called something like *External Loudspeaker* or *Computer / Tablet / Laptop Portable Speaker*. Strangely, these will generally require being charged and/or come USB/AC powered. Examples are: Logitech S150, XMI X-Mini II, Frisby FS-210NU, Earise AL-101, AmazonBasics Computer Speakers, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, there are plenty of Bluetooth speakers available as well. **Bose** SoundLink Mini is one with decent sound that also has an analogue line-in, but these need recharging every 8 hours of use. They are mobile, though and you can use them anywhere around the house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[DIY]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, back to the passive speakers. They won't come with that 3.5mm audio jack, because people expect you to put an amplifier in front of them. If you want to do it yourself, there is something on instructables: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-wire-a-speaker-to-35mm-jack/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, this won't always work as the results will highly depend on how much power your Audio-Out provides. People tried this with a raspberry Pi and there it didn't exactly work. A monitor Audio-Out may give you better results, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2307" RevisionGUID="7df401cc-2aed-46c6-b4ce-47f47b9b35e6" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:32:29.603" UserId="2040" Text="I'd like to buy a Bluetooth headset.  I have a long list of criteria, and have done some research.  From what I can tell, the Plantronics M70 or M90 would be reasonable choices for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the difference between the Plantronics M70 headset and the similar Plantronics M90?  Please provide me with a comparison of the two products." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2307" RevisionGUID="7df401cc-2aed-46c6-b4ce-47f47b9b35e6" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:32:29.603" UserId="2040" Text="Plantronics M70 vs. M90 — what's the difference between them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8616" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2307" RevisionGUID="7df401cc-2aed-46c6-b4ce-47f47b9b35e6" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:32:29.603" UserId="2040" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2308" RevisionGUID="f7c40ddf-24c5-4aea-aad3-119e8273502e" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:32:29.603" UserId="2040" Text="It took me a fair bit of Web searching to find the answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, I finally hit upon the correct set of terms to enter into Google.  I did a Google search for [ `plantronics m70 m90 vs | comparison | difference` ].  The 21st search result was an Amazon.co.uk product-description page which included the information I sought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On that page, reviewer Andrew Oakley [writes](http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R1N9Q48SATCHGM):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Note that the only difference between the M90 and the M70 is that the M90 comes with a fancy charger cable that can charge two devices (headset &amp; phone) at a time, wheras the M70 just comes with a standard charger cable. The M70 is mostly black with a thin white stripe along the edge; the M90 is entirely black. The M70 and M90 headsets are otherwise identical in all technical and physical respects, to the best of my research. Talk time, A2DP, BT3.0, spoken features, etc.: all identical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An anonymous commenter adds:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Plantronics don't make it very clear about the difference between the two products. I'm certainly going to go for the M70. I even checked the manual on the Plantronics website. It groups the M25 &amp; M55 in the same manual and mentions when there's a difference. The M70 &amp; M90 have the same manual but the only difference seems to be this for the &quot;What's in the box&quot; section: _*Contents may vary by product._" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8618" PostHistoryTypeId="16" PostId="2308" RevisionGUID="bda232d8-8af9-4e27-a3c8-8b503a69e84b" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:32:29.603" UserId="2040" />
  <row Id="8619" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2307" RevisionGUID="ea17d8c7-c293-4b32-9572-6b2818a5c926" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:44:35.243" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8621" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2308" RevisionGUID="6839f743-44e5-4ce8-8202-c11063f9147a" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:51:43.810" UserId="8" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="It took me a fair bit of Web searching to find the answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, I finally hit upon the correct set of terms to enter into Google.  I did a Google search for [ `plantronics m70 m90 vs | comparison | difference` ].  The 21st search result was an Amazon.co.uk product-description page which included the information I sought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On that page, reviewer Andrew Oakley [writes](http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R1N9Q48SATCHGM):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Note that the only difference between the M90 and the M70 is that the M90 comes with a fancy charger cable that can charge two devices (headset &amp; phone) at a time, wheras the M70 just comes with a standard charger cable. The M70 is mostly black with a thin white stripe along the edge; the M90 is entirely black. The M70 and M90 headsets are otherwise identical in all technical and physical respects, to the best of my research. Talk time, A2DP, BT3.0, spoken features, etc.: all identical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An anonymous commenter adds:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Plantronics don't make it very clear about the difference between the two products. I'm certainly going to go for the M70. I even checked the manual on the Plantronics website. It groups the M25 &amp; M55 in the same manual and mentions when there's a difference. The M70 &amp; M90 have the same manual but the only difference seems to be this for the &quot;What's in the box&quot; section: _*Contents may vary by product._" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2307" RevisionGUID="c5c1b11e-3432-4beb-9c59-9dd7274750de" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:16:39.170" UserId="2040" Comment="edited body" Text="I'd like to buy a Bluetooth headset.  I have a long list of criteria, and have done some research.  From what I've found, the Plantronics M70 or M90 would be reasonable choices for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the difference between the Plantronics M70 headset and the similar Plantronics M90?  Please provide me with a comparison of the two products." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2309" RevisionGUID="8ac685a1-f944-4a0a-9fae-3b12ae0aefdc" CreationDate="2016-03-17T03:45:40.033" UserId="48" Text="Your requirements don't appear to be very specific:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - What OS (Windows, OS X, Linux, or other);&#xD;&#xA; - Which platform (PC, Pi, Mobile device, mini PC, MCU);&#xD;&#xA; - Which processor (Intel, ARM, Atmel);&#xD;&#xA; - Which size (0.94&quot; up to 14&quot;);&#xD;&#xA; - What resolution;&#xD;&#xA; - Which input connectors (VGA, HDMI, DVI, USB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I will assume that you are fishing for possible solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There seem to be three simple options, depending on what, and how, you wish to want to achieve your objective:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a mobile device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you say &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I thought to create an app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;assuming that you mean a mobile device (iOS or Andriod) app, then, depending on the actual size of display that you require, you could use a second hand, iPad, which are cheap and readily available on eBay. If an iPad is too big then an old version of an iPod (an iPhone would be over kill, unless you need a 3G connection to your server, which I doubt) would suffice. If the app is for Android, then a facsimile of an iPod/iPad would satisfy your needs, a second hand Galaxy Note or Tab, for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a small monitor&#xD;&#xA;If you mean an _application_, rather than an _app_, for a PC based OS (OS X, Windows, or Linux) then taking your question at face value, the best (i.e., cheapest, smallest monitor), would be one of the monitors supplied by [Lilliput][1], such as the 10&quot; [859GL-80NP/C][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For cheapness, you could use an old, vintage, CRT based [Apple Color 12&quot; Monitor][3], which has a resolution of 512 x 384. You would require an adapter, from Apple's monitor connector to VGA, but these are easy enough to find. You may, nowadays, have trouble finding a video card that supports it though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a Lapdock&#xD;&#xA;A Motorola LapDock 100 has a small screen, and accepts HDMI, which is fine so long as your PC has a DVI or HDMI output. Granted it also comes with a keyboard, but it would be useful for testing purposes, and could be used in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi - known as a PiDock. A prefect testing ground for your project, assuming that you are using a Pi. If you are indeed planning on using a Pi, then I would suggest the Motorola Atrix LapDock is a better solution than the Lapdock 100 as it has more and better features. Avoid the Lapdock 500, even though it appears on paper to be more fully featured, as it has some odd quirks that make it difficult to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To my mind, this is your best option to prove your project, as it would only require a simple set of Python scripts to get it up and running, and should you, thereafter, want to cancel/scrap the project, you can use the Raspberry Pi and Lapdock for some other purpose, and hence save money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Build a custom solution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you only need to display five numeric characters then a monitor seems to be overkill, for both a cost and energy efficiency aspect.  Much less power hungry, and arguably more of an interesting project would be to create a custom solution, using an Arduino and a Wireless or Ethernet shield (with the appropriate sketch to query the server) and an LED display, be that a [0.94&quot; OLED][4], or a set of five [6.5&quot; seven segment displays][5], or anything in between (again depending upon your size requirements).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can hammer down your requirements to be more specific, I can edit my answer accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/monitors/vga/859gl/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://lowendmac.com/displays/mac-12-inch-rgb-display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuSkmG-n8fA&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8628" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2309" RevisionGUID="5a5b0bf9-0b68-4f59-af36-23d0bdf573c2" CreationDate="2016-03-17T04:16:44.647" UserId="48" Comment="Added cost requirement" Text="Your requirements don't appear to be very specific:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - What OS (Windows, OS X, Linux, or other);&#xD;&#xA; - Which platform (PC, Pi, Mobile device, mini PC, MCU);&#xD;&#xA; - Which processor (Intel, ARM, Atmel);&#xD;&#xA; - Which size (0.94&quot; up to 14&quot;);&#xD;&#xA; - What resolution;&#xD;&#xA; - Which input connectors (VGA, HDMI, DVI, USB)&#xD;&#xA; - Most importantly - cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I will assume that you are fishing for possible solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There seem to be three simple options, depending on what, and how, you wish to want to achieve your objective:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a mobile device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you say &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I thought to create an app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;assuming that you mean a mobile device (iOS or Andriod) app, then, depending on the actual size of display that you require, you could use a second hand, iPad, which are cheap and readily available on eBay. If an iPad is too big then an old version of an iPod (an iPhone would be over kill, unless you need a 3G connection to your server, which I doubt) would suffice. If the app is for Android, then a facsimile of an iPod/iPad would satisfy your needs, a second hand Galaxy Note or Tab, for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a small monitor&#xD;&#xA;If you mean an _application_, rather than an _app_, for a PC based OS (OS X, Windows, or Linux) then taking your question at face value, the best (i.e., cheapest, smallest monitor), would be one of the monitors supplied by [Lilliput][1], such as the 10&quot; [859GL-80NP/C][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For cheapness, you could use an old, vintage, CRT based [Apple Color 12&quot; Monitor][3], which has a resolution of 512 x 384. You would require an adapter, from Apple's monitor connector to VGA, but these are easy enough to find. You may, nowadays, have trouble finding a video card that supports it though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Use a Lapdock&#xD;&#xA;A Motorola LapDock 100 has a small screen, and accepts HDMI, which is fine so long as your PC has a DVI or HDMI output. Granted it also comes with a keyboard, but it would be useful for testing purposes, and could be used in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi - known as a PiDock. A prefect testing ground for your project, assuming that you are using a Pi. If you are indeed planning on using a Pi, then I would suggest the Motorola Atrix LapDock is a better solution than the Lapdock 100 as it has more and better features. Avoid the Lapdock 500, even though it appears on paper to be more fully featured, as it has some odd quirks that make it difficult to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To my mind, this is your best option to prove your project, as it would only require a simple set of Python scripts to get it up and running, and should you, thereafter, want to cancel/scrap the project, you can use the Raspberry Pi and Lapdock for some other purpose, and hence save money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Build a custom solution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you only need to display five numeric characters then a monitor seems to be overkill, for both a cost and energy efficiency aspect.  Much less power hungry, and arguably more of an interesting project would be to create a custom solution, using an Arduino and a Wireless or Ethernet shield (with the appropriate sketch to query the server) and an LED display, be that a [0.94&quot; OLED][4], or a set of five [6.5&quot; seven segment displays][5], or anything in between (again depending upon your size requirements).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can hammer down your requirements to be more specific, I can edit my answer accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/monitors/vga/859gl/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://lowendmac.com/displays/mac-12-inch-rgb-display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuSkmG-n8fA&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="73ead60b-0127-4b43-a36a-0da38d923e9f" CreationDate="2016-03-17T05:01:32.383" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I need some help to choose a graphics card. I searched a lot about this but still haven't find a good answer. I want to be able to play AAA games and work with game development, graphics design, programming and video editing. I'm really newbie into computer components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking on GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti, or maybe SLI/Crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people say to stay away from crossfire/SLI ( compatibility and drivers issues with games), others say it's only worth for video editing, others say it's necessary for game development. I'm really confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm building a new PC, 3,000$ is my budget. The only item that wrote on my list to buy is the processor i7-6700k (Which I don't mind changing if need be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to over-clock anything, unless it will  provide a lot of benefit  without too much risk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8630" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="73ead60b-0127-4b43-a36a-0da38d923e9f" CreationDate="2016-03-17T05:01:32.383" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="Graphics card for heavy gaming, game development, graphics design and video editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8631" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="73ead60b-0127-4b43-a36a-0da38d923e9f" CreationDate="2016-03-17T05:01:32.383" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by -1 edit id of 414" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="ac08f2cf-8527-4239-9ef6-6abd257580b4" CreationDate="2016-03-17T05:01:32.383" UserId="155" Comment="Corrected grammar for readability" Text="I need some help choosing a graphics card. I searched a lot about this but still haven't found a good answer. I want to be able to play AAA titles and work with game development, graphics design, programming, and video editing. I'm really new to computer components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking a GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti (maybe SLI/Crossfire).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people say to stay away from Crossfire/SLI (compatibility and driver issues with games), others say it's only worth it for video editing, others say it's necessary for game development. I'm really confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm building a new PC &amp;mdash; 3,000$ is my budget. The only item that I wrote on my list to buy is an Intel i7-6700K (which I don't mind changing if need be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything unless it will provide a lot of benefit  without too much risk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8643" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2305" RevisionGUID="3a9ef7fc-9aa0-4193-b7aa-3eeee5891e11" CreationDate="2016-03-17T11:47:56.957" UserId="1369" Comment="Improved answer, spelling, grammer" Text="High spec Haswells and Broadwells are going for absolute bargains right now and are excellent machines for most people that want very good gaming with normal work/social use cases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you primarily want to game on your laptop and **if you don't want to wait and can find the 6700HQ (or something else) with something like a GTX 970M and a Thunderbolt 3 port *[(preferably more)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPwSP_5bhc0)*, then go for it. That should last you 2 years by which time there'll be much more external desktop GPUs to upgrade to via Thunderbolt 3**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; About a year ago there was a big explosion in interest about&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt, partly because it offered the possibility of running&#xD;&#xA;&gt; desktop-grade GPUs as an external plug-in to laptops and all kinds of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; other cool stuff. Right now, I can't ascertain whether this has lead&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to any tangible use cases or is likely to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give an example (for non-hardcore gamers), [Acer](https://youtu.be/TeWFT1R-LHA) will be releasing a dock which features an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M graphics card, two DisplayPorts, a HDMI port, three Type A USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and an Ethernet port. Expected to be about €300, likely to be tied to Acer laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For serious desktop graphics cards, a number of enclosures are out now or just around the corner that take a full PCI-E x16 slotted card. Thunderbolt 3.0 doesn't nearly have the same bandwidth as PCI-E x16 and this does lead to a performance hit compared to a *desktop* (Asus say 1-5% fps hit for theirs); but a bit of perspective: you're running a desktop graphics card on your laptop :-O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's the Asus ROG XG Station, as in a YouTube link above, tied to Acer laptops. Likely to be GPU manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Razer have Core***, which is a docking station designed to enhance their ultrabook grade Blade Stealth, **but is GPU and PC manufacturer agnostic**. From what I gather, hot swap drivers drivers are built into the Core and load on the fly, unlike the other offerings where you'll have to power of your device to disconnect the external GPU. It has a built-in 500W power supply (supports a 350W GPU), four USB 3.0 ports and Ethernet port. Already shipping in the US for $500 (without a GPU), $400 with a Blade Stealth ($1000 starting). Expected to ship in April for Europe. This is the one I'm really excited about :-D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD are working on XConnect (with Razer), intended to be at least PC manufacturer agnostic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you get a Skylake gaming machine with Thunderbolt 3 soon, which typically last for 2 years, by then there'll be plenty more GPU and PC manufacturer agnostic enclosures around. If you go Haswell, although much cheaper now, you'll have to replace the whole machine at upgrade time.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm not even entirely sure, to be honest, whether you can even buy&#xD;&#xA;&gt; non-Apple laptops with Thunderbolt ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 is no pricey passing technology like Thunderbolt 1 &amp; 2 before it. Nor should it ever be thought of as an Apple feature like Thunderbolt 1 &amp; 2. Major manufactures have already released laptops with Thunderbolt 3 for their higher priced offerings and only more will follow suit. Here are only [*some*](https://thunderbolttechnology.net/products?tid=All&amp;field_company_nid=All&amp;field_prod_os_value_many_to_one=All&amp;field_prod_tb_version_value_many_to_one=tbv3) examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="53da05cd-1282-4893-bc0d-d5184c8034b7" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:26:48.473" UserId="2043" Text="Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015(visual studio) and later editions , so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory hogging and processor crunching.&#xD;&#xA;I need a laptop which wouldnt cost me time in terms of compilation /execution &#xD;&#xA;Although i would prefer SSD , i am willing to look at other options like SSHD/HDD if they do fit the bill. &#xD;&#xA;Or a third option wherein i could buy HDD and then replace it with SSD bought separetely.&#xD;&#xA;thanks,&#xD;&#xA;Kuruvilla Philip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8645" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="53da05cd-1282-4893-bc0d-d5184c8034b7" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:26:48.473" UserId="2043" Text="Best SSD laptops for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8646" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="53da05cd-1282-4893-bc0d-d5184c8034b7" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:26:48.473" UserId="2043" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8647" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="482f072c-0888-4b91-9628-ca92d08aff13" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:05:01.887" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8648" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="875b7329-7d20-4f2e-9079-ad5e99cfec8e" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:10:46.290" UserId="1997" Comment="21" />
  <row Id="8649" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="0dba3c64-b0fb-41b5-b9de-76103e89ab9a" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:14:49.087" UserId="1997" Comment="added 203 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 19V, so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery and also to occasionally power a fan and an LED TV which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but struggles to fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 19 volts, but allows output between 12 volts and 18 volts?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator. Portability is a bonus - while I don't need to take it camping or anything, I'll need to get between locations in West Africa and Europe and possibly elsewhere so ideally I'd like something that could fit as luggage on a plane, in a car, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2257" RevisionGUID="8e4088f7-3e43-473c-8003-5c254000664a" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:42:36.090" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="Just to add one possibility that I found after posting this question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;an ideal laptop would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- device called [NexDock][1]&#xD;&#xA;- combined with some [IntelStick][2] / Raspberry Pi / BeagleBoard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there have been similar startup projects before, and they did not succeeded.  I hope that NexDock will (but it is critical, the current status is 52% with only one month left). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/nexdock-the-world-s-most-affordable-laptop--2#/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1138082-REG/intel_boxstck1a8lfcr_compute_stick_atom_1gb_8gb_ssd_linux.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8651" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2257" RevisionGUID="8e4088f7-3e43-473c-8003-5c254000664a" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:42:36.090" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 60, 1994 edit id of 415" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="0e73e971-565b-4ff0-8510-89cb901cfdfd" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:52:43.127" UserId="1997" Comment="added 184 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 20V (it says 15V-19V but the manufacturer's supplied charger outputs at 20V), so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery that can be charged in a day and used to power other appliances such as a 12V fan and a 19V LED TV, which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but given placement limitations in my compound costing maybe 20-30% of ideal daily output, it can't quite fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a durable, reliable solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 20 volts, but allows output at 15 volts or more?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator. Portability is a big bonus - while I don't need to take it camping or anything, I'll need to get between locations in West Africa and Europe and possibly elsewhere, so ideally I'd like something that could fit as luggage on a plane, in a car, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="0e73e971-565b-4ff0-8510-89cb901cfdfd" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:52:43.127" UserId="1997" Comment="added 184 characters in body; edited title" Text="100W+ solar panel with built-in output voltage cap around 18V or 19V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8655" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="fc7a1ba7-31bb-4b5c-be2e-f8e4b0437eef" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:01:13.170" UserId="1997" Comment="added 211 characters in body" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. While the exact product I use costs more than your $200 budget, I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, and there's a lower-power option that should give you a few hours laptop use and a charged USB device on a sunny day that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40 watt Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency, very portable, durable, and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most regular solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct heavy rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity, and some light rain) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, if these are as reliable, they're great value. 40W should be enough for occasional use while camping, 60W will easily be more than enough in an sunny location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack, but direct charging might work better for some laptops. My battery packs don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging, but assuming you're doing outdoors activities during daylight then whatever one does with a laptop while camping after dark, one will be enough for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, and are portable (same size as a paperback book, similar weight to a full water bottle) but they cost $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile. Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only one or two hour's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/R6RESm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HT1FEm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="3c8356bf-a35e-4e47-b772-1692c3d80cc7" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:29:01.630" UserId="2043" Comment="added 321 characters in body" Text="Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015(visual studio) and later editions , so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory hogging and processor crunching.&#xD;&#xA;I need a laptop which wouldnt cost me time in terms of compilation /execution &#xD;&#xA;Although i would prefer SSD , i am willing to look at other options like SSHD/HDD if they do fit the bill. &#xD;&#xA;Or a third option wherein i could buy HDD and then replace it with SSD bought seperately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget - $1000 &#xD;&#xA;Portability :I am going to be travelling a fair bit around the country, yes. But not frequently.&#xD;&#xA;Battery backup :  ~4-5 hrs atleast.&#xD;&#xA;Screen : 15&quot; should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again , though I prefer SSD for performance reasons , I am willing to look at cheaper alternatives which might give comparable performance like the SSHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="3947139e-f331-4f4c-9abd-62a97e23e890" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:43:11.043" UserId="67" Comment="fix typo in title" Text="Wi-Fi PCMCIA card that is flush or some sort of adapter(s)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="3947139e-f331-4f4c-9abd-62a97e23e890" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:43:11.043" Comment="Proposed by 67 approved by 60, -1 edit id of 416" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="63f5483a-53c7-44aa-9687-2dbeb5cfe707" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:43:11.043" UserId="54" Comment="fix typo in title" Text="I have a Fujitsu P1620 ([CNET Review][1], 2008) that I want to add the [Broadcom Crystal HD][2] ([Amazon][3]) board to.  That means I have to re/move the mini PCIe Wi-Fi card.  The P1620 has a [PCMCIA][4] slot, so I've been looking into finding a flush Wi-Fi card where the antenna doesn't stick out.  The problem is, I can't seem to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a PCMCIA (aka Cardbus) Wi-Fi adapter that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fits into a PCMCIA slot&#xD;&#xA; - 2.4 Ghz b/g/n support&#xD;&#xA; - 150 mbps&#xD;&#xA; - flush with the edge of the slot, or very close to it&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced &lt;$25 incl shipping&#xD;&#xA; - Windows support/drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5 Ghz support&#xD;&#xA; - 300 mpbs&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Well supported on Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Promiscuous mode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Ubiquiti][5] on Amazon appears to fit the bill, but it's really expensive.  Which probably stems from it's high end name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively a series of parts and adapters (PCMCIA, Expresscard, mini PCIe, etc) to fit into the slot would be fine.  The Wi-Fi antenna is still in the chassis (could be reused), or I could run a new one in the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB PCMCIA + USB WiFi**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to not use USB, but will do so as a last resort.  USB is supposedly heavy on the CPU and I don't know if I will have enough room/ports for a suitable USB adapter and card in the case.  If you think you can make it work, feel free to suggest that solution, but be detailed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to do something like this, I would want to modify the card adapter so the USB Wi-Fi adapter sat further in, and potentially rig up some form of external antenna or connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edits/additions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][6] would be a perfect form factor and antenna management system.  This particular card uses a different networking standard than is common today, so it won't work for my purposes.  This type of antennae seems popular for the cell cards, but I can't find any for Wi-Fi G or N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A Wi-Fi version of [this][7] would be awesome.  Sadly, I was unable to locate one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I snagged a cheap Ubiquiti (listed above) on eBay, but I would still like to hear other solutions.  The Ubiquiti seems to be [supported by Linux,][8] but I will have to engineer a protector for the antennae connectors, but that won't be too bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/products/fujitsu-lifebook-p1620/#!&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadcom_Crystal_HD&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM970015-Crystal-Decoder-AW-VD920H/dp/B00A66PCTM/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_card&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PCMCIA-Cardbus-WLAN-802-11a/dp/B004EHUVHW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458153957&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pcmcia%20wifi&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BreezeCom-Breezenet-PCMCIA-SA-PCR-Wireless-802-11-LAN-Card-New-/351252445527?hash=item51c846f957:g:46UAAOSwnDxUijx9&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hidden-Inside-USB-2-0-Bluetooth-Wireless-to-PCMCIA-PC-Card-CardBus-Adapter-/251666257311?hash=item3a987a559f:g:COIAAOSwRLZULqWx&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.backtrack-linux.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10338" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2312" RevisionGUID="1fb98f7a-6832-4288-86f5-524270f5593a" CreationDate="2016-03-17T20:20:00.000" UserId="2045" Text="You can try the Dell Precision 15 5000 Series (5510).&#xD;&#xA;It comes with Windows 7 pre-installed with an option to upgrade to Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;RAM upgradable to upto 32GB. Does not have a webcam or an Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;Only drawback is that it has 15.6'' screen.&#xD;&#xA;Dell also has couple of Latitudes that fit the requirements, however they have built-in webcams and Ethernet ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards,&#xD;&#xA;-Edwin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2312" RevisionGUID="d5b25d4c-aa26-48b9-bef2-7fe77bdf31d1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T22:40:41.700" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 38 characters in body" Text="You can try the Dell Precision 15 5000 Series (5510).&#xD;&#xA;It comes with Windows 7 pre-installed with an option to upgrade to Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;RAM upgradable to up to 32GB. Does not have a webcam or an Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;Only drawback is that it has 15.6&quot; screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell also has couple of Latitudes that fit the requirements, however they have built-in webcams and Ethernet ports." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="87e1c66d-bf86-44ca-9f92-c9002528551e" CreationDate="2016-03-17T23:56:43.557" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting and punctuation" Text="Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015 (Visual Studio) and later editions, so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory-hogging and processor-crunching.&#xD;&#xA;I need a laptop which wouldn't cost me time in terms of compilation/execution &#xD;&#xA;Although I would prefer SSD, I am willing to look at other options like SSHD/HDD if they do fit the bill. Or a third option wherein I could buy HDD and then replace it with SSD bought separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: $1000&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I am going to be travelling a fair bit around the country, yes. But not frequently.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery backup: ~4-5 hours at least&#xD;&#xA;- Screen: 15&quot; should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, though I prefer SSD for performance reasons, I am willing to look at cheaper alternatives which might give comparable performance like the SSHD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="b43fa356-b052-4fb9-99ab-344b89c2b6c8" CreationDate="2016-03-17T23:56:43.777" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2313" RevisionGUID="8ac8b06c-c157-4a7f-ab45-f4b0655eee76" CreationDate="2016-03-18T00:37:22.277" UserId="531" Text="I'm currently running a [asrock beebox][1] as a home server and I'm pretty impressed - its a reasonable balance between most of the factors I'd find handy in a small home server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its *tiny*, smaller than the brix of any size, and while its a 'less powerful' [N3150][2] braswell processor, its probably plenty for LAMP hosting (I've done it for less and I run VMs with KVM on this - even a full windows 10 install).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up the full system with OS (which gives you a 32 gb mmc with windows installed) - I've installed linux on a 1tb hdd, but there's no reason you can't use this for a system drive or even swap. You can also add msata and a 2.5 inch drive, and in theory, possibly replace the m.2 wifi card with a suitable m.2 SSD. There's very few options that give you this much flexibility in storage options in such a small form factor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's not all though - it has 3 usb 3.0 slots and a proper *type c* port. It has DP and 2x HDMI, and I've tested the HDMI ports at 4K30. I need to test DP but I'm a bit lazy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another unique feature is you can load it up with 2 slots of ram - I've got mine with 2x4gb of ram but you can go up to *16gb*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its rediculously small, has low power use and is pretty darned inexpensive. The only place where it may fall short is in the processor speed - its got a low base clock speed (1.6ghz) and will ramp up to 2.08 as needed. Its *not* actually as powerful as a mac mini but its good enough for most work. I run a full desktop environment (KDE) + up to 2 virtual machines with little issue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;~170 usd on amazon + ram and storage to taste, so it won't break the bank either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/microsite/beebox/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/87258/Intel-Celeron-Processor-N3150-2M-Cache-up-to-2_08-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="98b93e31-040b-436d-9170-f10914e288f1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T02:13:07.930" UserId="2043" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015 (Visual Studio) and later editions, so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory-hogging and processor-crunching.&#xD;&#xA;I need a laptop which wouldn't cost me time in terms of compilation/execution &#xD;&#xA;Although I would prefer SSD, I am willing to look at other options like SSHD/HDD if they do fit the bill. Or a third option wherein I could buy HDD and then replace it with SSD bought separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: $1000&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I am going to be travelling a fair bit around the country, yes. But not frequently.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery backup: ~4-5 hours at least&#xD;&#xA;- Screen: 15&quot; should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;- SSD : 256 ideally. but am willing to go a little lesser here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, though I prefer SSD for performance reasons, I am willing to look at cheaper alternatives which might give comparable performance like the SSHD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2317" RevisionGUID="eb943a36-910b-4be1-bce8-f1f3eca54d92" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:50:58.987" UserId="531" Text="I'd essentially mirror my answer [here][1] and build something around a [X10SDV-6C+-TLN4F][2] Xeon-D based system. Newegg has it for a hair under the grand *including* an embedded CPU, and unlike some other models, it has a cooling solution. This dosen't include the ram but it'll take standard DDR4, and up to *64 gb* of non ECC stuff (or 128gb of Rdimm ram).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets talk about the nice things about this board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an 8 core system, *designed* to run VMs, with a TDP of 45W. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lan ports? 2x gig-e. 2x 10gig-e (should you need it). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of band management over IPMI. You can *install the OS over lan*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One PCI x16, one M.2 slot, *6* sata 3 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in a *mini ITX form factor*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could go cheaper but I doubt you'd get all the same features. I've not actually gotten one, but I was seriously considering it at one point, when weighing my options for a home server. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2124/531&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/D/X10SDV-6C_-TLN4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2318" RevisionGUID="b3c3b812-d35f-4b8c-975e-f7542ab44ce5" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:25:31.853" UserId="672" Text="How about a Dell Latitude E6420?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Webcam and mic are optional (I do not have them on mine),  &#xD;&#xA;It is very cheap, I got mine for &lt;£200 about 3 months ago,  &#xD;&#xA;It has a 14&quot; screen,  &#xD;&#xA;It is ridiculously tough, all metal in the important places with a scratch resistant powder coat and water resistant keyboard,  &#xD;&#xA;You can get an optional USB 3.0 module,  &#xD;&#xA;It features HDMI and VGA out,  &#xD;&#xA;It has a WiFi switch,  &#xD;&#xA;It has native Windows 7 support,  &#xD;&#xA;i3, i5 and i7 options available,  &#xD;&#xA;I have 8gb RAM installed in mine, Google says 16gb is possible,  &#xD;&#xA;I upgraded mine to a 512gb SSD with no problems and considering the price compared to your budget, I think a little out-of-the-box adjustment is reasonable.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has an Ethernet port and an EC and SD card reader (no micro SD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've owned this Dell for a few months and have had zero problems with it. I think you may have had bad luck with them in the past. Dell have good drivers and some good software but I will admit customer support is lacking.." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2319" RevisionGUID="f3856779-c576-48ce-8750-5b90b05c0e60" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:27:56.500" UserId="1369" Text="You really should upgrade, minor upgrades just won't do. Right now you might not be doing any computationally heavy tasks, maybe a few scripts in Matlab, assemblies with only a few parts in Solidworks/Creo and writing up the reports. Your laptop may get those done but probably very slowly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the later years, you'll need to be running larger assemblies along with CFD, thermal and FEM simulations that can take a few hours. You'd also like to do these from home instead of staying late after lectures in the computer labs all the time. Your work (particularly solid modeling) will be much more interesting and fun on a better machine, you'll be dying to learn more! You'll want it to last a few years after college and I've factored that in too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spec wise what you're looking for is any laptop with all of the following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a Skylake i7&#xD;&#xA; - 12-16GB RAM with support for 32GB and access to slots&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB ssd (preferably 500+GB)&#xD;&#xA; - a Thunderbolt 3 port&#xD;&#xA; - a mid range gaming graphics card for Solidworks, a GTX 960M will more than suffice &#xD;&#xA; - 14+inch matte screen (preferably 15.6+inch)&#xD;&#xA; - obviously Windows as a host OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above should easily get you through college and longer. But if you find that you really like designing and need to do even more complex assemblies, when the time comes you can upgrade to a desktop graphics card via the Thunderbolt 3 port. If you are trying to decide between specific machines, post them up here and the Exchange can help you out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be prepared to spend $1000-1500. That'll leave you ~$500 to buy student versions of Matlab, Solidworks, Creo, Office etc if you need to. Many laptop manufacturers have student discounts of 10-15%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Treat yourself like a professional and you'll naturally start acting like one.&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="1316d07a-b6da-4599-982e-7c2a91b44019" CreationDate="2016-03-19T11:33:43.257" UserId="1997" Comment="added 466 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 20V (it says 15V-19V but the manufacturer's supplied charger outputs at 20V), so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery that can be charged in a day and used to power other appliances such as a 12V fan and a 19V LED TV, which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but given placement limitations in my compound costing maybe 20-30% of ideal daily output, it can't quite fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a durable, reliable solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 20 volts, but allows output at 15 volts or more?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator. Portability is a big bonus - while I don't need to take it camping or anything, I'll need to get between locations in West Africa and Europe and possibly elsewhere, so ideally I'd like something that could fit as luggage on a plane, in a car, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: something like [this 120 watt panel from EBAT](http://www.amazon.co.uk/EBAT-Portable-Sunpower-Weatherproof-Foldable/dp/B018JZQ02Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_46?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51b9OkhWD%2BL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=058GZBAQ3W8QF28C0F4Y) would be ideal, but I can't find any reviews  vouching for its quality or durability, and it also doesn't specify whether its designed to avoid taking charge from a device when the light level is low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8701" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="c37bdaaa-c6f0-4366-8a4d-7b8a463a0b3a" CreationDate="2016-03-19T11:41:03.883" UserId="1997" Comment="added 466 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 20V (it says 15V-19V but the manufacturer's supplied charger outputs at 20V), so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery that can be charged in a day and used to power other appliances such as a 12V fan and a 19V LED TV, which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but given placement limitations in my compound costing maybe 20-30% of ideal daily output, it can't quite fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a durable, reliable solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 20 volts, but allows output at 15 volts or more?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator. Portability is a big bonus - while I don't need to take it camping or anything, I'll need to get between locations in West Africa and Europe and possibly elsewhere, so ideally I'd like something that could fit as luggage on a plane, in a car, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: something like [this 120 watt panel from EBAT](http://www.amazon.co.uk/EBAT-Portable-Sunpower-Weatherproof-Foldable/dp/B018JZQ02Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_46?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51b9OkhWD%2BL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=058GZBAQ3W8QF28C0F4Y) would be ideal, but I can't find any reviews  vouching for its quality, durability, real-life outputs, etc and it also doesn't specify whether it's designed to avoid taking charge from a device when the light level is low." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="26a703a9-9d5c-4c41-8644-649acdd2cc47" CreationDate="2016-03-19T11:47:12.523" UserId="1997" Comment="added 466 characters in body" Text="I'm in a country with an unreliable power supply but plenty of sun. I currently keep my work computer and phone going with a portable fold-up [PowerAdd 60 watt solar panel](http://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Poweradd-Portable-Foldable-Notebooks/dp/B00PGIZURO), which has built-in voltage control fixed to cap the output at 18 volts max (as well as optional USB output). I use it to recharge one of two [lithium polymer battery packs](http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-PC26000-Capacity-26000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B00BB5VQCE) designed to recharge laptops. These can take input from 15V to 20V (it says 15V-19V but the manufacturer's supplied charger outputs at 20V), so it works very well and is elegantly simple: panel, cable, battery, done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to expand my setup with a third battery and second solar panel, to have a spare fully charged battery that can be charged in a day and used to power other appliances such as a 12V fan and a 19V LED TV, which both can be powered from these LiPo batteries when there's no mains electricity. The 60 watt panel is okay, but given placement limitations in my compound costing maybe 20-30% of ideal daily output, it can't quite fully charge one of these batteries in a day, struggles to exceed 2.5 amp output at 18V for more than an hour or two even on a good day, and can't get a high enough voltage to charge at all before around 9:30am and after around 6:00pm. I'm going to need a bigger panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is, PowerAdd only go up to 60W, and all the panels over 60W I can find either have no voltage control, or output at 12 volts, which is too low for my needs (or doubled-up to 24V, which is too high).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a durable, reliable solar panel (preferably portable, but not necessarily), with output 100 watt or greater, that prevents output voltage exceeding 20 volts, but allows output at 15 volts or more?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something with manually adjustable voltage would be amazing (like my batteries which can be switched between 12, 15 and 18 volts), and optional USB output like my current panel would also be nice, but these aren't essential. 5mm/2.5mm DC barrel plug connection would be nice for easy compatibility with my existing setup but adaptors are easy to find so that's a minor consideration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main criteria is, I'd like something simple without needing bulky inverters or a bulky heavy duty voltage regulator. Portability is a big bonus - while I don't need to take it camping or anything, I'll need to get between locations in West Africa and Europe and possibly elsewhere, so ideally I'd like something that could fit as luggage on a plane, in a car, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a push, a panel with output at 15V or 16V would be an acceptable compromise, since these batteries could still charge, but 12V is definitely too low.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: something like [this 120 watt panel from EBAT](http://www.amazon.co.uk/EBAT-Portable-Sunpower-Weatherproof-Foldable/dp/B018JZQ02Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_46?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51b9OkhWD%2BL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=058GZBAQ3W8QF28C0F4Y) would be ideal, but I can't find any reviews  vouching for its quality, durability, real-life outputs, etc and it also doesn't specify whether it's designed to avoid taking charge from a device when the light level is low. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also some promising looking panels from AliExpress, like [this 120 watt OEM panel](http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DHL-FEDEX-UPS-Free-Shipping-120-Watt-Portable-RV-and-Marine-Mono-Folding-Solar-Panel-Kit/1541162705.html?spm=2114.40010608.4.27.S4GrIn) which claims to output at up to 18V (or 12V with a charge controller), again, no 3rd party reviews I can find anywhere." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2322" RevisionGUID="07805cee-6d63-4c16-9391-14126e919c4f" CreationDate="2016-03-19T12:11:10.683" UserId="1997" Text="This looks promising: [RENOGY® Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit 100W Mono](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXG4AXS?psc=1).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 100 watt output&#xD;&#xA;- Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 18.0V. &#xD;&#xA;- For an extra $20 there's an optional charge controller that can limit this to 12V, and they say in answers to questions that it's fine to charge things other than 12v lead acid batteries without using the charge controller, straight from the panel.&#xD;&#xA;- Heaps of detailed positive reviews!&#xD;&#xA;- Portable, includes its own stand&#xD;&#xA;- At $240 USD, it's cheaper than my 60w panel was!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GQMbSm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/e4af9m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2323" RevisionGUID="00f3f87b-bd4d-4179-a812-339d18637cd6" CreationDate="2016-03-19T13:07:00.610" UserId="2052" Text="Perhaps you could use a cheap tablet or smartphone with a streaming app?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also use a BananaPi with extra batteries, camera module and USB WiFi stick (or BananaPro with built-in WiFi). [Batteries require some simple soldering][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://lb9mg.no/2015/06/28/banana-pi-on-battery-power/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2325" RevisionGUID="47a1de49-4a9b-4e3a-88ca-702e17307c3f" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:16:37.953" UserDisplayName="user2054" Text="I run a small business that handles credit card point of sales transactions over my business internet account.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Per some updated regulations with the credit processing company, they now have a requirement that the hardware used at my business be protected against certain attacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the specific requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Implement anti-spoofing measures to detect and block forged source IP addresses from entering the network (1.3.4): In an attempt to bypass your firewall, cyber attackers will try and spoof packets using the internal IP range of your network to make it look like the request originated internally. Enabling the IP spoofing feature on your firewall will help prevent these types of attacks.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using a Linksys BEFSX41 network router, which has a firmware based firewall. However, I am having trouble determining if an &quot;IP spoofing feature&quot; is already part of the Linksys firmware or if I need to purchase a new router for this capability. My research so far shows that there are certain enterprise-level Cisco devices that explicitly mention this feature, but they seem to be outside of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The network at my business is a couple of work stations, some network attached storage, a printer, and some point of sale devices. DHCP is enabled on the router firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please let me know if I can provide any additional information. I'm a bit naive in this area of computing.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2325" RevisionGUID="47a1de49-4a9b-4e3a-88ca-702e17307c3f" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:16:37.953" UserDisplayName="user2054" Text="Selecting a non-WiFi network router that can handle IP spoofing attacks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2325" RevisionGUID="47a1de49-4a9b-4e3a-88ca-702e17307c3f" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:16:37.953" UserDisplayName="user2054" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2326" RevisionGUID="dffcb1af-4a2b-4685-b814-69f8a5561f35" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:27:36.140" UserId="543" Text="Currently, Lenovo IdeaPad Y700 Gaming Laptop is going for $999 in Newegg. It has an i7 6700HQ, 16 GB DDR4 RAM, 1 TB HDD + 128 GB SSD, Full 15.6&quot; IPS HD display and up to 5 hourse battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834321438&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, the configuration for this price is very good. Compared to some of the other laptops with similar price points, this one is much more powerful. It should be more than enough for programming. This laptop does not have an internal disk drive, however I don't believe that to be too much of a problem since external ones are available. The only con of this laptop that I think is worth considering (even though compared to all of the pros, I think is relatively insignificant) is that the hard drive is only 5400 rpm. The SSD will definitely speed things up, but you might want to consider this. All in all, I think it is a great laptop for the job." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2325" RevisionGUID="d65a2696-63ac-444c-a946-a64aeb535a6d" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:32:58.567" UserId="8" Comment="added 105 characters in body; edited title" Text="I run a small business that handles credit card point of sales transactions over my business internet account.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Per some updated regulations with the credit processing company, they now have a requirement that the hardware used at my business be protected against certain attacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the specific requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Implement anti-spoofing measures to detect and block forged source IP addresses from entering the network (1.3.4): In an attempt to bypass your firewall, cyber attackers will try and spoof packets using the internal IP range of your network to make it look like the request originated internally. Enabling the IP spoofing feature on your firewall will help prevent these types of attacks.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using a Linksys BEFSX41 network router, which has a firmware based firewall. However, I am having trouble determining if an &quot;IP spoofing feature&quot; is already part of the Linksys firmware or if I need to purchase a new router for this capability. My research so far shows that there are certain enterprise-level Cisco devices that explicitly mention this feature, but they seem to be outside of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What models exist that have this feature and are more reasonably priced than enterprise-grade equipment?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The network at my business is a couple of workstations, some network attached storage, a printer, and some point of sale devices. DHCP is enabled on the router firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please let me know if I can provide any additional information. I'm a bit naive in this area of computing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8722" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2325" RevisionGUID="d65a2696-63ac-444c-a946-a64aeb535a6d" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:32:58.567" UserId="8" Comment="added 105 characters in body; edited title" Text="Non-WiFi network router that can handle IP spoofing attacks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="c4b26dd0-629a-4ade-a365-50b4c1c9d7a4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:05:00.080" UserId="2057" Text="How can we connect a pc to TV via VGA cable.TV has only HDMI port and I don't have a graphics card in cpu.Which means i don't have HDMI port in cpu.Is this possible at a low cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="c4b26dd0-629a-4ade-a365-50b4c1c9d7a4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:05:00.080" UserId="2057" Text="connect a computer without graphics card to HDMI port in TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="c4b26dd0-629a-4ade-a365-50b4c1c9d7a4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:05:00.080" UserId="2057" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="231e1591-fa2c-4a88-9adb-92641360e659" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:07:58.227" UserId="203" Comment="Reformatting" Text="My PC does not have a HDMI port, but my TV only supports HDMI inputs. Is there any way of connecting the two that is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably reliable and&#xD;&#xA; - Ensures a reasonable image quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="231e1591-fa2c-4a88-9adb-92641360e659" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:07:58.227" UserId="203" Comment="Reformatting" Text="Cheap solution to connect PC to TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8734" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="231e1591-fa2c-4a88-9adb-92641360e659" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:07:58.227" UserId="203" Comment="Reformatting" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2329" RevisionGUID="a3c7813a-27f1-4c16-ae35-c723721dca7d" CreationDate="2016-03-20T08:51:06.287" UserId="2057" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="My desktop PC does not have a HDMI port, but my TV only supports HDMI inputs. Is there any way of connecting the two that is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably reliable and&#xD;&#xA; - Ensures a reasonable image quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 2gb DDR2 RAM.Budget around 10 dollar or 700 to 900 indian rupees." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2332" RevisionGUID="5ae04184-6fb9-44dc-9ce5-c72cadad8303" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:31:44.797" UserId="595" Text="This [VGA to HDMI with audio adapter][1] is what you are looking for. It costs a little more than you were hoping, but there aren't many of these things around, and it has a lot of good reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $22.42  &#xD;&#xA; - Converts VGA Source to HDMI Display  &#xD;&#xA; - Supports Audio Function for HDMI Monitor and TV  &#xD;&#xA; - Powered by USB Port  &#xD;&#xA; - Cable Length: 8&quot;&#xD;&#xA;[![VGA to HDMI adapterlll][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/bTkfX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2333" RevisionGUID="c1d8fed4-f688-4947-a6aa-558cd9982eed" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:39:54.590" UserId="2062" Text="I need enough power to connect to the internet and run programs like Libreoffice.  I've actually got a Raspberry Pi2, and considering it's cost the performance is amazing, but still, it's a bit underpowered in my opnion for things like Youtube.   Still, with the 1GB limitation, you can't really run more than a couple of programs at once.  If you open a few tabs on the browser, the system hangs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand the Raspberry Pi3 is out, and that it's a bit faster. But I imagine the exact same problems would occur opening multiple tabs on a browser, or running more than a couple of programs at a time, considering it's 1GB RAM memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is another system I'm interested in, the Odriod-C2, also with a quad core processor, but running at 2ghz rather than pi3's 1.2 ghz.  And, the network connection is faster, as I understand it, running directly off the motherboards bus instead of hitched onto the USB2 bus, as in the pi2 and pi3.  And, the Odriod-c2 has a whooping 2GB RAM memory, twice as much, so I should be able to have twice as many programs or tabs on my browser open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On paper, it looks like the Odriod-C2 would be cheapest ARM computer capable of running a Linux Desktop &quot;smoothly&quot; at $40 for the board, vs $35 for the pi3 (although it includes wifi and bluetooth on the board)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest question I have about the Odriod-c2 is: does it have a linux software repository that's stock with the most popular of linux software?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for ARM boards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8751" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2333" RevisionGUID="c1d8fed4-f688-4947-a6aa-558cd9982eed" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:39:54.590" UserId="2062" Text="cheapest ARM computer capable of running a Linux Desktop smoothly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8752" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2333" RevisionGUID="c1d8fed4-f688-4947-a6aa-558cd9982eed" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:39:54.590" UserId="2062" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2333" RevisionGUID="b62963a9-69c3-4d8b-94d9-eea8f0430cb9" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:16:50.110" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 95 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I need enough power to connect to the internet and run programs like Libreoffice.  I've actually got a Raspberry Pi2, and considering it's cost the performance is amazing, but still, it's a bit underpowered in my opnion for things like Youtube.   Still, with the 1GB limitation, you can't really run more than a couple of programs at once.  If you open a few tabs on the browser, the system hangs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand the Raspberry Pi3 is out, and that it's a bit faster. But I imagine the exact same problems would occur opening multiple tabs on a browser, or running more than a couple of programs at a time, considering it's 1GB RAM memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is another system I'm interested in, the Odriod-C2, also with a quad core processor, but running at 2ghz rather than pi3's 1.2 ghz.  And, the network connection is faster, as I understand it, running directly off the motherboards bus instead of hitched onto the USB2 bus, as in the pi2 and pi3.  And, the Odriod-c2 has a whooping 2GB RAM memory, twice as much, so I should be able to have twice as many programs or tabs on my browser open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On paper, it looks like the Odriod-C2 would be cheapest ARM computer capable of running a Linux Desktop &quot;smoothly&quot; at $40 for the board, vs $35 for the pi3 (although it includes wifi and bluetooth on the board)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one of these two options suits my situation best - or are there better alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2333" RevisionGUID="b62963a9-69c3-4d8b-94d9-eea8f0430cb9" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:16:50.110" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 95 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="09000194-69a0-4902-a96a-e5428a990f2d" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:31:45.020" UserId="2077" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this ? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated ?&#xA;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system .&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8784" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="09000194-69a0-4902-a96a-e5428a990f2d" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:31:45.020" UserId="2077" Text="Deep learning machine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8785" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="09000194-69a0-4902-a96a-e5428a990f2d" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:31:45.020" UserId="2077" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8786" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="5423196f-d1db-4822-823e-5dce9043a3b1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T14:02:54.890" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="fb937027-c80f-4a61-b069-44bb5542b968" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:21:44.600" UserId="2086" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8788" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="fb937027-c80f-4a61-b069-44bb5542b968" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:21:44.600" UserId="2086" Text="HD Projectors 1920*1080 native Resolution 120 inch screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8789" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="fb937027-c80f-4a61-b069-44bb5542b968" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:21:44.600" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="6ae088e9-fdec-4209-8fde-a492562300c8" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:36:52.793" UserId="2086" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000. I know ACER [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D. Not sure what 2D to 3D conversion is. Is it &quot;true&quot; 3D?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8791" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="066e044f-1592-4570-aa28-1a99b88edbb9" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:42:10.783" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 50 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8795" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="e712bb43-7977-4b37-baab-b188e4474154" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:53:29.407" UserId="2086" Comment="added 182 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8796" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2343" RevisionGUID="84acf90a-d303-48b8-8de3-ab4a62af4f6b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T10:08:24.540" UserId="2088" Text="I suspect that my video card burned after upgrading the RAM from 1gb to 2gb. The screen has a purple tint. When I downgraded it to 1gb, the purple tint is still there. What could be the problem here? And I am planning to change my GPU. What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC Specs:&#xD;&#xA;From system properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 8.1 Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core 2 Duo CPU E7500 @ 2.93 GHz 2.94 GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 2GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 32-bit Operating System, x64-based processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From DxDiag&#xD;&#xA;Display Tab:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel G41 Express Chipset&#xD;&#xA; - BenQ GL950A Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8797" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2343" RevisionGUID="84acf90a-d303-48b8-8de3-ab4a62af4f6b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T10:08:24.540" UserId="2088" Text="Graphics problem and compatible graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8798" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2343" RevisionGUID="84acf90a-d303-48b8-8de3-ab4a62af4f6b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T10:08:24.540" UserId="2088" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8801" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="be670fbc-4aa7-44d6-8877-8a9c7c0ad34a" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:15:28.630" UserId="2086" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8802" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="c97d6d90-1b5f-4207-be2f-ef95d8ed59f3" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:25:38.187" UserId="2086" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2345" RevisionGUID="642b6fb2-9714-4d04-af54-5a1427a7c4c7" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:33:43.827" UserId="2086" Text="Is it true that passive 3D projectors would require some special screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely hate active 3D glasses." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2345" RevisionGUID="642b6fb2-9714-4d04-af54-5a1427a7c4c7" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:33:43.827" UserId="2086" Text="Is most 3D projectors active?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2345" RevisionGUID="642b6fb2-9714-4d04-af54-5a1427a7c4c7" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:33:43.827" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8806" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="fea9f571-4986-4d24-b164-0044eee3170b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T12:26:20.970" UserId="2086" Comment="added 2274 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [ViewSonic PJD7822][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][5]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [Mitsubishi HC3800][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2346" RevisionGUID="a02492d1-cf7c-4811-8c5c-9148d2f7649b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T12:37:55.397" UserId="2090" Text="Yes, virtually all single beam projectors are active.  This is because passive polarization relies on pixel perfect alignment of the light to the polarization material (screen medium).  Active 3D however does not have that limitation as the glasses do not need polarization.  There are costly dual projection setups which can be used passively, but they are also difficult to align and maintain.  I prefer passive as well, but owning both types, I can say that active 3D has made advancements in the home.  I prefer DLP 3D projector glasses even to those sold for Samsung 3D TVs now.  If you'd like any more info, feel free to ask me further questions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2347" RevisionGUID="a51ba46a-d5f2-40e9-9112-9fe0b148b386" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:35:19.603" UserId="2092" Text="in my band, we want to upgrade our gear for recording and monitoring and have some kind of studio environment in our band room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know the possibilities of all those different kinds of gear and don't know what I would need exactly to fulfill our requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we want is to have monitorng via headphones in our band room and also possibilities to record our songs properly, ideally with multiple tracks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our first plan was to simply buy an analog mixer with 4 Aux tracks. That way, each of us (we are four people in the band) could get a seperate mix into their headphones (correct me if I'm wrong) and we could record, but only with one track (or two at max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we would need a interface with enough tracks (e.g. something like that)&#xD;&#xA;With that we could route the output of the tracks from the mixer into the interface and then in our DAW, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there another possibility for our requirements? Another solution would be a digital mixer, but they are quite pricy =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think would be neccessary?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8809" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2347" RevisionGUID="a51ba46a-d5f2-40e9-9112-9fe0b148b386" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:35:19.603" UserId="2092" Text="Recording/ monitoring equipment for band" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8810" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2347" RevisionGUID="a51ba46a-d5f2-40e9-9112-9fe0b148b386" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:35:19.603" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8811" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2347" RevisionGUID="3affa0e6-e0ce-460f-9cc7-1f140d1222e8" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:41:52.593" UserId="2092" Comment="added price range" Text="in my band, we want to upgrade our gear for recording and monitoring and have some kind of studio environment in our band room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know the possibilities of all those different kinds of gear and don't know what I would need exactly to fulfill our requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we want is to have monitorng via headphones in our band room and also possibilities to record our songs properly, ideally with multiple tracks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our first plan was to simply buy an analog mixer with 4 Aux tracks. That way, each of us (we are four people in the band) could get a seperate mix into their headphones (correct me if I'm wrong) and we could record, but only with one track (or two at max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we would need a interface with enough tracks (e.g. something like that)&#xD;&#xA;With that we could route the output of the tracks from the mixer into the interface and then in our DAW, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there another possibility for our requirements? Another solution would be a digital mixer, but they are quite pricy =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think would be neccessary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Regarding the price, for the whole solution (headphones and individual headphone amps or something alike not included) for 500 or 600 bucks would be nice, 1000 as absolute maximum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8812" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="67679b6f-82cf-431e-8184-47759eae01a9" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:52:37.553" UserId="2086" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][1] doesn't seem to have required resolution&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][2] doesn't seem to have required resolution&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [ViewSonic PJD7822][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][5]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [Mitsubishi HC3800][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8813" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="8d72349b-3fa0-4906-9dd0-9f84704e0130" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:03:06.897" UserId="2086" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][1] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][2] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [ViewSonic PJD7822][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][5]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [Mitsubishi HC3800][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2348" RevisionGUID="931181c8-cf25-4db3-a862-6de61663f3b6" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:20:54.067" UserId="2094" Text="If you have not come right as yet see if you can find yourself a pair of Steelseries Siberia Raw Prism's.&#xD;&#xA;They are a good price to performance headset and are also extremely comfortable, the only thing I do not like about them is they are plastic but I doubt you will be able to find a set as good as them for that price and if you look after them the plastic is strong enough to last. I see they go for $49 on Amazon at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Siberia-Prism-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00O06ZN3O" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8815" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="7236373f-b406-4f8b-826d-9ec19b96d879" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:26:19.650" UserId="2086" Comment="added 146 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1080*1920. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][1] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][2] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][3] my most preferred one&#xD;&#xA; 4. [BenQ MH680][4]  second fav. what's the difference? more noisy?&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7822][5]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][6]&#xD;&#xA; 7. [Mitsubishi HC3800][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-MH680.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8816" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2322" RevisionGUID="2ebebf6e-0d67-415c-844c-073bf7860ee9" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:43:10.990" UserId="1997" Comment="added 446 characters in body" Text="This looks promising: [RENOGY® Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit 100W Mono](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXG4AXS?psc=1).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 100 watt output&#xD;&#xA;- Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 18.0V. &#xD;&#xA;- For an extra $20 there's an optional charge controller that can limit this to 12V, and they say in answers to questions that it's fine to charge things other than 12v lead acid batteries without using the charge controller, straight from the panel.&#xD;&#xA;- Heaps of detailed positive reviews!&#xD;&#xA;- Portable, includes its own stand&#xD;&#xA;- At $240 USD, it's cheaper than my 60w panel was!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[More details at Renogy's site](http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm). At 12kg and folding to the size of a large suitcase (Renogy's site has an illustration) it's portable enough for my needs (occasional house-to-house or air travel but not backpacking or camping). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding waterproofing, they say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The solar panels are fully waterproof (IP66 class), the controller is not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GQMbSm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/e4af9m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8817" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2347" RevisionGUID="63d11c7a-d9e1-4bc6-b7e0-d41cf057e5ab" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:51:14.543" UserId="57" Comment="Spelling; grammar; noise reduction." Text="In my band, we want to upgrade our gear for recording and monitoring and have some kind of studio environment in our band room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know the possibilities of all those different kinds of gear and don't know what I would need exactly to fulfill our requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we want is to have monitoring via headphones in our band room and also possibilities to record our songs properly, ideally with multiple tracks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our first plan was to simply buy an analog mixer with 4 Aux tracks. That way, each of us (we are four people in the band) could get a separate mix into their headphones (correct me if I'm wrong) and we could record, but only with one track (or two at max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we would need an interface with enough tracks (e.g. something like that)&#xD;&#xA;With that we could route the output of the tracks from the mixer into the interface and then in our DAW, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there another possibility for our requirements? Another solution would be a digital mixer, but they are quite pricey =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think would be necessary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the price, for the whole solution (headphones and individual headphone amps or something alike not included) for 500 or 600 bucks would be nice, 1000 as absolute maximum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="f5c080ba-31a5-43b8-8e92-7547048b14ed" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:13:57.173" UserId="2095" Text="I'm desperetely looking for a products similar to the Behringer ULM100USB but that actually works with Macs...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any of you know something like that? Don't point me to radio-based stuff... I'm looking for solutions with a USB dongle that transmits/receives the mic input via bluetooth/wifi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8819" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="f5c080ba-31a5-43b8-8e92-7547048b14ed" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:13:57.173" UserId="2095" Text="Wireless Microphone with USB Receiver that works with Macs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8820" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="f5c080ba-31a5-43b8-8e92-7547048b14ed" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:13:57.173" UserId="2095" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2351" RevisionGUID="872777c0-be69-49b7-9fc9-6d5b8ce2fccd" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:49:53.660" UserId="57" Text="I'm reconfiguring my home work environment and one of my ideas is having both a sitting and a standing desk (seperate). As part of this though, I'd like to continue to utilize the same computer between the two desks, instead of finding a way to migrate work between the two in a way that isn't disruptive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a reverse KVM switch. Instead of forcing one set of monitors and keyboard/mouse to service two (or more) computers, I'd like one computer to be able to swap between two different sets of monitors and keyboard/mouse but support &quot;modern&quot; monitors - HDMI - and keyboards (USB instead of PS/2)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found things like [Belkin's Reverse KVM](http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=87647), but that only has support for VGA and PS/2 connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Device Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for two sets of multi-monitors (at least Dual Screen per set up - total of 4 monitors).&#xD;&#xA; - Support for USB Keyboard and Mouse connections &#xD;&#xA; - Swapping between the two sets of hardware should be as simple as a keyboard short cut or a button press on the KVM itself&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is around $150. If that's not realistic, I'm flexible on this aspect&#xD;&#xA; - Should have either &quot;long&quot; cables between the two hardware sets or support both HDMI and USB extension cables. The two desks are on opposites sides of a shared wall.&#xD;&#xA; - Extra points for USB sound/microphone connection&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to support Windows currently and potentially OS X in the near future." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8825" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2351" RevisionGUID="872777c0-be69-49b7-9fc9-6d5b8ce2fccd" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:49:53.660" UserId="57" Text="Reverse KVM Switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8826" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2351" RevisionGUID="872777c0-be69-49b7-9fc9-6d5b8ce2fccd" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:49:53.660" UserId="57" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8827" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2343" RevisionGUID="9d79ff1d-5efa-41ac-af7e-304591a49d42" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:19:49.943" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8831" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2345" RevisionGUID="6013b54e-1dec-4a2b-974d-e6e1ca7cc22b" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:26:39.473" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8832" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2346" RevisionGUID="e3eee67c-4159-4400-b51c-c68d7156c632" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:27:19.820" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 69 characters in body" Text="Yes, virtually all single beam projectors are active.  This is because passive polarization relies on pixel perfect alignment of the light to the polarization material (screen medium).  Active 3D however does not have that limitation as the glasses do not need polarization.  There are costly dual projection setups which can be used passively, but they are also difficult to align and maintain.  I prefer passive as well, but owning both types, I can say that active 3D has made advancements in the home.  I prefer DLP 3D projector glasses even to those sold for Samsung 3D TVs now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8833" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="9f2a3014-8c06-4b59-952c-d87d9594d8bb" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:28:27.560" UserId="8" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1920x1080. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][1] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][2] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][3] my most preferred one&#xD;&#xA; 4. [BenQ MH680][4]  second fav. what's the difference? more noisy?&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7822][5]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][6]&#xD;&#xA; 7. [Mitsubishi HC3800][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-MH680.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8834" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="9f2a3014-8c06-4b59-952c-d87d9594d8bb" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:28:27.560" UserId="8" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="HD Projectors 1920x1080 native Resolution 120 inch screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="04a9ab96-30a4-4c6b-998b-76fbb2083039" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:28:44.923" UserId="2077" Comment="added 472 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this ? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard and easily available &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is required from the hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8836" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="04a9ab96-30a4-4c6b-998b-76fbb2083039" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:28:44.923" UserId="2077" Comment="added 472 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Deep learning machine with largest number of gpu and xeon cpu sockets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8837" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="04a9ab96-30a4-4c6b-998b-76fbb2083039" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:28:44.923" UserId="2077" Comment="added 472 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8838" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="49ca02a2-ebbe-44d0-ae95-aa71f2e46652" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:37:19.593" UserId="8" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard and easily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8839" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="f3799577-24f0-437c-8c00-f4f7470fbdf8" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:37:25.127" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="6d6496e9-5db7-496d-88d6-0909a1aebbda" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:42:07.133" UserId="2098" Text="I have low vision and have trouble seeing presentations on the screen when I'm in conferences or in group meetings. I am currently using an application called Eye Glasses on my iPad for this purpose, which has a nice zoom capability but the problem is that I need to turn it very much toward myself to be able to focus on the presentation (which is usually shown on a screen located on the top of the wall).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am now looking for a camera that I can mount on my macbook's screen or on my iPad (like a webcam) with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must be tiny (ideally like a spy camera) so it doesn't catch the attention of the presenter or people who are sitting around me (most presenters are not comfortable with being on a camera)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must be zoomable so I can zoom in depending on my distance from the screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must have title capability (adjustable angle) so I can focus on the presentation depending on my vertical distance from the screen by just turning the camera (without having to adjust the angle of my macbook's screen or my iPad).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to emphasize that I don't need to record the presentation. Just seeing the screen would be more than enough for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas as to what options I may have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8846" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="6d6496e9-5db7-496d-88d6-0909a1aebbda" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:42:07.133" UserId="2098" Text="Apple compatible tiny zoomable camera with adjustable angle for distance viewing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8847" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="6d6496e9-5db7-496d-88d6-0909a1aebbda" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:42:07.133" UserId="2098" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8849" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="e4d20ee4-b129-4a35-982d-e2d5d1b81b62" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:57:18.707" UserId="2098" Comment="Made a minor edit to the title" Text="Apple compatible tiny zoomable camera with adjustable angle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="69679e07-a393-4b2f-a33b-f2209ca85e87" CreationDate="2016-03-23T21:17:04.387" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I have low vision and have trouble seeing presentations on the screen when I'm in conferences or in group meetings. I am currently using an application called Eye Glasses on my iPad for this purpose, which has a nice zoom capability but the problem is that I need to turn it very much toward myself to be able to focus on the presentation (which is usually shown on a screen located on the top of the wall).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am now looking for a camera that I can mount on my macbook's screen or on my iPad (like a webcam) with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must be tiny (ideally like a spy camera) so it doesn't catch the attention of the presenter or people who are sitting around me (most presenters are not comfortable with being on a camera)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must be zoomable so I can zoom in depending on my distance from the screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must have tilt capability (adjustable angle) so I can focus on the presentation depending on my vertical distance from the screen by just turning the camera (without having to adjust the angle of my macbook's screen or my iPad).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to emphasize that I don't need to record the presentation. Just seeing the screen would be more than enough for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas as to what options I may have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2354" RevisionGUID="8e76e8cc-5bbe-4460-9eb5-fff0a70d8525" CreationDate="2016-03-24T09:38:59.870" UserId="2081" Text="There are a couple of things you could do....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 1:  VGA to HDMI Adapter&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest one I found with relatively good ratings was (at the time of this post) $17 available on [Amazon][1].  VGA being an analog signal and HDMI being digital, there's no getting around the fact that you have to convert the signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note:  You will need to supply your own HDMI cable to go from the adapter to your TV*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![VGA to HDMI][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 2:  Upgrade Video Card to DVI and use a DVI to HDMI Cable&#xD;&#xA;--------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You said you had a desktop computer, so you could easily add (or replace) your existing video card with one that had a DVI connector.  These are selling for as low as $5.95 (at the time of this post) on [eBay][3].  Keep in mind that this is going to be a used video adapter, but given the price constraints, I don't think this will be too much of an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can then use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect that video card to your TV.  [Amazon][4] has it for $6.95 (at the time of this post). Since DVI and HDMI are both digital, no digital to analog conversion is necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are no options that I could readily find for under the $10 limit.  The second option I proposed seems to be the cheapest, coming in at about $13 USD.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/1UbNJ9M&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dTysrm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_mPrRngCbx=1&amp;_udlo&amp;_udhi=10&amp;_nkw=dvi%20video%20card&amp;rt=nc&amp;LH_FS=1&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m1684&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://amzn.to/1UbPhAy&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1xKLM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9UXQAm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2355" RevisionGUID="0d3139b4-e3f4-45b3-80cc-a527c05ff779" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:00:49.800" UserId="2081" Text="What you need is a firewall that that does packet inspection so that it can prevent IP spoofing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend [pfSense][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The beauty with this platform is that you can purchase a complete hardware appliance for as little as $300 or your can build your own if you have a spare PC laying around.  There are videos on [YouTube][2] that show you how you can do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pfsense.org/about-pfsense/features.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://youtu.be/Q0JFfpG4BWI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2355" RevisionGUID="75add547-2469-42e9-9022-4e05f426a53d" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:03:18.700" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="What you need is a firewall that that does packet inspection so that it can prevent IP spoofing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend [pfSense][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The beauty with this platform is that you can purchase a complete hardware appliance for as little as $300 or your can build your own if you have a spare PC laying around.  There are [videos on YouTube][2] that show you how you can do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pfsense.org/about-pfsense/features.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://youtu.be/Q0JFfpG4BWI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8855" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2322" RevisionGUID="bd9e5075-0c42-41b9-97c8-7680f8131c36" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:20:41.860" UserId="1997" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="This looks promising: [RENOGY® Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit 100W Mono](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXG4AXS?psc=1).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 100 watt output&#xD;&#xA;- Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 18.0V. &#xD;&#xA;- For an extra $20 there's an optional charge controller that can limit this to 12V, and they say in answers to questions that it's fine to charge things other than 12v lead acid batteries without using the charge controller, straight from the panel.&#xD;&#xA;- Heaps of detailed positive reviews! A couple mention connection problems, but add that they had no problem fixing these&#xD;&#xA;- Portable, includes its own stand&#xD;&#xA;- At $240 USD, it's cheaper than my 60w panel was!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[More details at Renogy's site](http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm). At 12kg and folding to the size of a large suitcase (Renogy's site has an illustration) it's portable enough for my needs (occasional house-to-house or air travel but not backpacking or camping). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding waterproofing, they say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The solar panels are fully waterproof (IP66 class), the controller is not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GQMbSm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/e4af9m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2355" RevisionGUID="ed752108-67ed-4abf-b274-b615ff778a69" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:44:50.743" UserId="2081" Comment="added 1165 characters in body" Text="**What you need is a firewall that that does packet inspection so that it can prevent IP spoofing.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your Linksys BEFSX41 (assuming v2) &quot;does&quot; packet inspection and can prevent IP Spoofing ([see data sheet][1]).  That said, this router/firewall is from 2004 (over 12 years old) and as far as I can tell, there have been no updates to this particular model; meaning it isn't current to address current threats.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend [pfSense][3].&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The beauty with this platform is that you can purchase a complete hardware appliance for as little as $300 or your can build your own if you have a spare PC laying around.  There are [videos on YouTube][4] that show you how you can do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Packet normalization - Description from the pf scrub documentation - &quot;'Scrubbing' is the normalization of packets so there are no ambiguities in interpretation by the ultimate destination of the packet. The scrub directive also reassembles fragmented packets, protecting some operating systems from some forms of attack, and drops TCP packets that have invalid flag combinations.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being a small business, I can appreciate trying to maximize your investment and getting the most value for a dollar.  I have recommended pfSense to many of my clients and I use it personally at both my office and at home.  I think you will find it more than capable to meet your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://downloads.linksys.com/downloads/datasheet/BEFSX41v2_ds.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Xk9Ta.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pfsense.org/about-pfsense/features.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://youtu.be/Q0JFfpG4BWI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="34a76c32-68ed-4e1b-a5d7-41800ae2725f" CreationDate="2016-03-24T11:21:38.037" UserId="2077" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard and easily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottlenecked by memory or topology" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2357" RevisionGUID="8dabd0c8-9b2e-4ca0-817b-28c2a20f1a50" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:47:33.303" UserId="2105" Text="What would you recommend for rendering on GPU (iray, V-Ray RT, VRED) and doing some VR; **two** GTX 970 or **one** GTX980 Ti card? I can get these setups for roughly the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cuda cores**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: 2x1664 = **3328**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **2816**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VRAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **4GB** per GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **6GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory Bandwidth** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **224** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **336.5** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Texture Fill Rate**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **109** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **176** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My motherboard has 3x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots with support for 3-way SLI. I also have my old GTX 590, that I was thinking of keeping for Windows to work with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8862" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2357" RevisionGUID="8dabd0c8-9b2e-4ca0-817b-28c2a20f1a50" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:47:33.303" UserId="2105" Text="Two GTX 970 or one 980 Ti for GPU rendering and VR?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8863" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2357" RevisionGUID="8dabd0c8-9b2e-4ca0-817b-28c2a20f1a50" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:47:33.303" UserId="2105" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2357" RevisionGUID="f3912623-6e4b-4183-ba71-b5acf4286e33" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:57:38.540" UserId="2105" Comment="added 209 characters in body" Text="What would you recommend for rendering on GPU (iray, V-Ray RT, VRED) and doing some VR; **two** GTX 970 or **one** GTX980 Ti card? I can get these setups for roughly the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cuda cores**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: 2x1664 = **3328**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **2816**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VRAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **4GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **6GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory Bandwidth** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **224** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **336.5** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Texture Fill Rate**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;970: **109** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;980Ti: **176** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the memory in two 970 does not add up to 8gb in total, so two 970 will give me less VRAM. But what about the total number of CUDA cores compared to the lower amount of VRAM and lower memory bandwidth? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My motherboard has 3x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots with support for 3-way SLI. I also have my old GTX 590, that I was thinking of keeping for Windows to work with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8867" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="e2112ea1-3091-49e6-beab-ca188eba1945" CreationDate="2016-03-24T17:00:22.710" UserId="40" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse controlled with neck movements. I have found SmartNav, [TrackerPro](http://www.spectronics.com.au/product/tracker-pro), [HeadMouse Extreme/Nano](http://www.orin.com/access/headmouse/) and [HeadMaster](http://www.evas.com/Datasheets/DataSheet088.htm). How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor? My setting is multi-monitor (6). I am open to other devices as well (controlled with neck movements)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8868" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="8512baa6-8d2b-4c1a-8749-64efad0757c9" CreationDate="2016-03-24T17:05:56.727" UserId="40" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse controlled with neck movements. I have found [SmartNav](https://naturalpoint.com/smartnav/), [TrackerPro](http://www.spectronics.com.au/product/tracker-pro), [HeadMouse Extreme/Nano](http://www.orin.com/access/headmouse/) and [HeadMaster](http://www.evas.com/Datasheets/DataSheet088.htm). How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor? My setting is multi-monitor (6). I am open to other devices as well (controlled with neck movements)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2358" RevisionGUID="f8b8c8ea-1062-4c1e-a3cb-7d640ec88c12" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:01:03.583" UserId="279" Text="Well, just like @Cfinley said, Nvidia is about to drop the Pascal Series. You're probably get the most bang for you buck with one of those, but since we don't have concrete prices/specs, it's mostly just speculation. If you want your GPU soon, I would recommend the 980 TI over 970 SLI. In my opinion, there are many benefits to the 980 ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lower TDP. The 980 TI has a TDP of 250, whereas the 970 SLI has 290.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SLI is not always supported. This varies from program to program and game to game, but a single card is more reliable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Most benchmarks I can find show the 980 TI getting a higher framerate. Here's an [article](http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2246-gtx-970-sli-vs-gtx-980-ti). I don't know how well this transfers when you're rendering rather than gaming, but I'd assume the one that's better for gaming is also better for rendering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2359" RevisionGUID="ed026dc3-6db3-4708-b8b5-e7952f980e43" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:09:55.243" UserId="199" Text="I'm looking for a not so smart, classic phone mainly used for calls and SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - backup and restore contacts, messages etc. with a PC running Linux&#xD;&#xA; - high quality and durable construction&#xD;&#xA; - good call sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - MP3 audio support with 3.5mm jack&#xD;&#xA; - microSD card support for MP3 files&#xD;&#xA; - microUSB charger&#xD;&#xA; - price range up to $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8871" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2359" RevisionGUID="ed026dc3-6db3-4708-b8b5-e7952f980e43" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:09:55.243" UserId="199" Text="Classic phone with Linux backup/restore" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8872" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2359" RevisionGUID="ed026dc3-6db3-4708-b8b5-e7952f980e43" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:09:55.243" UserId="199" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8873" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2360" RevisionGUID="9af0cf3a-f69d-4531-a068-93325114a39f" CreationDate="2016-03-24T22:32:52.940" UserId="1903" Text="I am starting a home server build. I am on a tight budget and aiming for the most quiet and low power build. I managed to salvage an Intel Xeon X3440 Processor from an old server. It uses an intel LGA1156 socket. After a brief google search it seems that the only boards that support this processor are server grade boards. I am looking for a recommendation for a low cost server board that will support my processor.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Link for CPU: http://ark.intel.com/products/42928/Intel-Xeon-Processor-X3440-8M-Cache-2_53-GHz&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8874" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2360" RevisionGUID="9af0cf3a-f69d-4531-a068-93325114a39f" CreationDate="2016-03-24T22:32:52.940" UserId="1903" Text="Home Server Build around Xeon X3440 CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8875" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2360" RevisionGUID="9af0cf3a-f69d-4531-a068-93325114a39f" CreationDate="2016-03-24T22:32:52.940" UserId="1903" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2360" RevisionGUID="7aa90c2b-5fed-44c0-87d2-61397ed963aa" CreationDate="2016-03-25T00:51:17.963" UserId="1" Comment="remove thanks" Text="I am starting a home server build. I am on a tight budget and aiming for the most quiet and low power build. I managed to salvage an Intel Xeon X3440 Processor from an old server. It uses an intel LGA1156 socket. After a brief google search it seems that the only boards that support this processor are server grade boards. I am looking for a recommendation for a low cost server board that will support my processor.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Link for CPU: http://ark.intel.com/products/42928/Intel-Xeon-Processor-X3440-8M-Cache-2_53-GHz&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2361" RevisionGUID="722fff01-1c59-4399-b8b5-4b2cf6a38052" CreationDate="2016-03-25T07:11:02.157" UserId="2110" Text="I would start with only systems that are &quot;self contained&quot;, meaning they need no software or special drivers installed.  These units will be recognized as a standard mouse and the OS will use a standard HID driver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are 2 main technologies used in developing head controlled mice.  Accelerometer/Gyro based systems like [eeZee Mouse][1] Tracer and Headmaster are generally the FASTEST and MOST ACCURATE.  The camera based systems which track head or eye movement seem to be the most widely marketed, although often more expensive and somewhat less responsive; including: Accupoint, Camera Mouse, myGaze, ViVo Mouse, Eagle Eyes, Erica, Eye Gaze, Eye Guide, Eye Mouse, Quick Glance, PCEye, Vision Key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most reputable manufacturers have a demo or loaner program in order to &quot;test drive&quot; their products for little or no cost.  Each state has a [lending library][2] of Assistive Technology devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An old medical evaluation of head-controlled mice can be found under the title of &quot;Efficacy of three head-pointing devices for a mouse emulation task&quot;.  My newbie status prevents me from including more than 2 links.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lazeetek.com/html/eezee_mouse.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.resnaprojects.org/nattap/activities/deviceloans.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14651252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2363" RevisionGUID="5bb54bf8-2f9c-4fcb-9b18-96854f953182" CreationDate="2016-03-25T09:28:54.360" UserId="1366" Text="You can use motherboard with [Intel® P55 Express Chipset][1] it is not listed in compatible devices list but people run this Xeon on this chipset without any problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend to look for some used motherboards with this chipset on auction portal which you use in your country (or specify country where we should look for it). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend looking for motherboards like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [MSI P55-GD65][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Asus P7P55D][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you can always look for other motherboards with [Intel® P55 Express Chipset][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/pl/products/42690/Intel-BD82P55-PCH&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://msi.com/Motherboard/P55GD65.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3440#ov&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P7P55D/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8885" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2248" RevisionGUID="cc16d43a-4e9a-411a-a7a8-902d7963c08d" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:33:15.750" UserId="-1" Comment="21" />
  <row Id="8889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2365" RevisionGUID="8d6948b0-d65e-4baf-adc8-d017e1b7fcbf" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:58:31.330" UserId="1519" Text="I just built a new machine based on an Asus x99a/3.1 motherboard and 5820 cpu. I do video production and web development. Im running windows 10 and my main os drive is a samsung 950 pro 512mb (Probably overkill). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to be able to edit 4k video on my machine using premiere pro. I currently have 2 ssds in addition to my system drive and a hd. 1 ssd for storage of current video I'm working on and 1 as a scratch disk and the 4tb drive is where I archive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I'm running into is all the raw video storage. I currently shoot every thing in 1080i5994. I'm shooting an event and coming home with 250gb in video that I need to edit, archive, produce tv shows with and burn to dvd/bluray for sale. I shoot about 3 events a month right now and am starting to run out of space on my 4tb internal drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the way I want to go is with a raid array in my system of 4 - 4tb western digital black drives. Then for backup I will get either an external nas to copy the data to or just use external usb3 drives then take them to the bank or somewhere safe to store them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I dont have a lot to spend, probably about 1k for now but I will expand as I grow. I was thinking I would just do a Raid5 array in windows with the 4 4tb drives giving me 12tb of working storage and then I would back up outside of the machine. Or should I get a pcie card of some sort? I was looking at [this one][1]. I'm not entirely sure which way would be the most cost effective vs performant. Am I looking at this wrong?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUC3N74/ref=twister_B00ES8QUYA?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8890" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2365" RevisionGUID="8d6948b0-d65e-4baf-adc8-d017e1b7fcbf" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:58:31.330" UserId="1519" Text="Cost Effective/Performance Raid Setup For Video Production" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8891" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2365" RevisionGUID="8d6948b0-d65e-4baf-adc8-d017e1b7fcbf" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:58:31.330" UserId="1519" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2366" RevisionGUID="05d65edb-02a1-49ce-8b47-554036c608f4" CreationDate="2016-03-25T23:45:03.450" UserId="2081" Text="My suggestion is to put that CPU on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the time you source the motherboard, memory, drives, case, etc. (not to mention the time to find the time required to source and assemble all the parts) you are going to be in for at least $500 or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why not look for a workstation class machine like this [Dell on eBay][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a newer Xenon CPU, is fully built and ready to go.  You can even further customize it to your hearts content and the asking price is $250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not knocking system building by any means, I just found that unless you are building a custom gaming rig, there really is nothing more efficient and economical than getting a used server/workstation rather than trying to source EOL parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Precision-T3500-Xeon-X5670-2-93GHz-Hex-Core-12gb-1tb-DVD-RW-Win7-Pro-/231881992941?hash=item35fd3e6aed:g:wv8AAOSwDNdV2iKF" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2367" RevisionGUID="19a8ca89-0535-4d01-a14d-17fc2775af55" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:22:04.083" UserId="2081" Text="The market for this type of product is shrinking quite rapidly; the culprit being &quot;the cloud&quot; and virtualization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Data centers are a thing of the past for small and mid-sized businesses so the need for economical data center products has all but evaporated.  This is why you can only find old PS/2 VGA products that meet your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for (reverse) KVMs that support the newer tech, you aren't going to find it.  Display's are intelligent and mice and keyboards are predominately wireless.  It's difficult enough to support a traditional setup of 1 keyboard/video/mouse to many computers, it is next to impossible to support a setup of 1 computer to many keyboards/video/mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why?  Well, what &quot;profile&quot; does the OS use when sending a signal to the display?  One moment it might be a Dell Ultrasharp monitor with Logitech mouse/keyboard and in another instance it's a Samsung monitor with a generic keyboard and Microsoft mouse.  See the problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you can overcome this by using **KVM over IP**, but it's expensive.  Since the KVM signal is now going over TCP/IP it can connect to any keyboard/video/mouse combination.  They even have options for audio and USB. Take a look at these from [Avocent][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*One thing to keep in mind is this is for datacenter use.  If you are expecting to be able to get high performance and high resolution from your video, it's simply not going to happen.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My solution:&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that you are going between a shared wall....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Video Splitter][2] You will need two of these for each pair of monitors&#xD;&#xA;- [Logitech wireless mice][3]  You can have multiple input devices on your system, it's just logitech's unifying receiver makes things very easy.&#xD;&#xA;- [USB over CAT5 Extenders][4] (if necessary)  You can use this if you want to hook a non-wireless USB mouse/keyboard to the remote desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this you won't have to press a button or need software.  However, you should be aware that both systems will be live at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/1Sm0L0Z&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amzn.to/1LNTVSJ&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://amzn.to/1RsHOJQ&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://amzn.to/1q6J2S5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2368" RevisionGUID="c52babdf-bc91-4850-9bc3-9b111774d215" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:44:22.317" UserId="2081" Text="I used to be a fan of Bose until a friend told me about Sennheiser.  They started out making monitors (headphones) for the music industry geared toward musicians and then branched out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have these exact headphones and they sound phenomenal and they fit perfectly. [![enter image description here][1]][1]  ([Sennheiser CX200.][2] )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not only does it fit all your specifications, [but it has a huge 2 year warranty][3] (one of the reasons I forgot how to spell Bose).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BC7eq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amzn.to/1Sc6rrB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61L6mtKXPeS.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2369" RevisionGUID="979daa53-1f87-4760-980a-3cf900c1e5ee" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:50:46.933" UserId="2030" Text="There are quite a few options available to you, depending on how much comfort you want to have vs. how much money you want to spend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1. There are a few do-it-yourself solutions as suggested by @filo**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use a Raspberry Pi + Camera + USB Battery pack to setup something, but it requires some effort and it's not going to be the most easy-to-use option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2. There are plenty of USB WiFi cameras available that would be suitable.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Same as with the former option, just add a large battery pack and you have a mobile solution. (Nest Cam / Dropcam Example: http://www.instructables.com/id/Dropcam-Unplugged/) The clear advantage is less trouble setting it all up, but it's still not the most user-friendly, if you really want to carry it around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **3. Build-in battery WiFi Cameras:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Logitech Circle http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/circle&#xD;&#xA; - Netgear Arlo https://www.arlo.com/en-us/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These products have a build in Battery and are made to be used without any wires (until you have to recharge them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can read a comparative review on some of these options here:&#xD;&#xA;http://arijaycomet.com/2016/01/23/comparison-netgear-arlo-q-vs-nest-cam-vs-logi-circle-vs-samsung-smarthd-vs-d-link-dcs-2630l/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2369" RevisionGUID="990589e4-8d99-46cb-9568-db177d351d61" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:59:48.263" UserId="2030" Comment="adding alternative answer" Text="There are quite a few options available to you, depending on how much comfort you want to have vs. how much money you want to spend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1. There are a few do-it-yourself solutions as suggested by @filo**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use a Raspberry Pi + Camera + USB Battery pack to setup something, but it requires some effort and it's not going to be the most easy-to-use option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2. There are plenty of USB WiFi cameras available that would be suitable.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Same as with the former option, just add a large battery pack and you have a mobile solution. (Nest Cam / Dropcam Example: http://www.instructables.com/id/Dropcam-Unplugged/) The clear advantage is less trouble setting it all up, but it's still not the most user-friendly, if you really want to carry it around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **3. Build-in battery WiFi Cameras:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Logitech Circle http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/circle&#xD;&#xA; - Netgear Arlo https://www.arlo.com/en-us/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These products have a build in Battery and are made to be used without any wires (until you have to recharge them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can read a comparative review on some of these options here:&#xD;&#xA;http://arijaycomet.com/2016/01/23/comparison-netgear-arlo-q-vs-nest-cam-vs-logi-circle-vs-samsung-smarthd-vs-d-link-dcs-2630l/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[ALTERNATIVE ANSWER]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your sole use case is for that family member to see you - I don't understand why you would want to carry the camera around on your helmet in the first place?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it would make more sense to either just install a few simple WiFi camera (e.g. Nest Cam) around the house and have her look at those on a tablet. They will show where you are and even give her security, when you are not there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, any **smartphone** you may already own, can do exactly what you want. Just start a Skype / FaceTime / Hangout call and carry your phone around. Assuming you already own a smartphone - it would be the no-cost option. (Well, you need a viewing tablet / computer for her, but you need that in any case.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8898" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2370" RevisionGUID="3c4e4e97-91dd-4122-9805-814fb7026556" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:09:42.097" UserId="2030" Text="I would like to solve three problems with a single (USB) device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Camera&#xD;&#xA; 2. Audio-Out&#xD;&#xA; 3. Audio-In&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe more and more of those home monitoring solutions have those things combined into one device (e.g. the Nest Cam).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I don't want to have to go through some cloud storage solution and instead get direct access to the audio and video signals, because I would like to use this with a Raspberry Pi (3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations which USB driven camera would work with the Raspberry Pi (3) and also features a microphone and speakers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8899" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2370" RevisionGUID="3c4e4e97-91dd-4122-9805-814fb7026556" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:09:42.097" UserId="2030" Text="Which USB webcam (with microphone and speakers) works for Raspberry Pi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8900" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2370" RevisionGUID="3c4e4e97-91dd-4122-9805-814fb7026556" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:09:42.097" UserId="2030" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2371" RevisionGUID="59831f2a-99ed-4057-b410-95b1ce4e9501" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:09:52.073" UserId="2081" Text="I just check on Amazon for the [ULM100USB.][1] and in the Q&amp;A someone from Behringer said that it works on Macs.  Have you contacted their customer service department?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From their [product brochure:][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would double check the specs, or clarify your question because everything I am finding says this works with OS X (and I can't see why it wouldn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/22BilpX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://media.music-group.com/media/PLM/data/docs/P0AQD/ULM100USB_ULM200USB_WebBrochure.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vEA6L.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2371" RevisionGUID="b09d648d-3982-46d2-a9aa-471fbb028157" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:19:33.750" UserId="2081" Comment="added 1388 characters in body" Text="I just check on Amazon for the [ULM100USB.][1] and in the Q&amp;A someone from Behringer said that it works on Macs.  Have you contacted their customer service department?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From their [product brochure:][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would double check the specs, or clarify your question because everything I am finding says this works with OS X (and I can't see why it wouldn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for bluetooth and WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I seriously doubt that you are going to find a pro level mic that transmits over either of these technologies.   Why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bluetooth is limited to 30 feet and a PC/Mac will only work with one bluetooth audio device at a time.**  This makes it rather impractical to develop a wireless mic system when you can only have 1 mic paired to 1 computer and you can't go any further than 30 feet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**WiFi gets around the 30 foot limitation but the audio quality will be horrible.**  WiFi is wireless IP which is packetized.  So forgetting about the DAC (digital audio conversion) that must be done, it will then take those digital signals and put them in packets, blast them out over the network to the receiving device, reassemble them, convert them back with another DAC then process them.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Shorter version of that?*  Think VoIP.  It's really neat from time to time but it can get horrible quick the moment there is a traffic storm.  Why would any company build a product for which the quality will inherently be crap due to facts completely outside their control. The answer is...they won't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;radio based stuff&quot; as you called it works off a 2.4Ghz channel which it dedicates to that particular mic.  This way you can have the range of 2.4Ghz and the high quality of a clear signal that it isn't in competition with other mics for bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/22BilpX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://media.music-group.com/media/PLM/data/docs/P0AQD/ULM100USB_ULM200USB_WebBrochure.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vEA6L.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2372" RevisionGUID="40b599af-ce68-4f62-8078-e2c4d446291c" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:30:20.723" UserId="2081" Text="If found this soundbar on Amazon - The [5ive® Bluetooth Soundbar][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's only 38cm, it has all USB, 3.5mm audio jack and bluetooth.  It has it's own power supply and is priced around $40 USD or $35 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think this should fit the bill quite nicely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/1URI5rY&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4pojam.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2373" RevisionGUID="bef467cd-2292-47e4-a1be-7cea9fd44a34" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:46:50.340" UserId="2081" Text="I am basing this on your statement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015 (Visual Studio) and later&#xD;&#xA;&gt; editions, so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory-hogging and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; processor-crunching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Portability: I am going to be travelling a fair bit around the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; country, yes. But not frequently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would get a workstation class laptop like the Dell Precision line.  Personally, I have bought refurbished laptops and had excellent results.  I found this one on Amazon, the [Precision M4600][1].  All of them lasting well past 3 years and none dying on me.  I just outgrew them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Quad Core i7 2860QM 2.50GHz Processor&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Full HD Anti-Glare LED Display&#xD;&#xA;- nVidia Quadro Video Card with 2GB Dedicated RAM Memory&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 7 Professional 64-bit operating system &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a 1TB HDD, but you can upgrade to an SSD quite inexpensively a 1TB [Samsung EVO][3] is under $300 and a 250GB is under $90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are [optical bay drive conversion kits][4] available for you to change out the DVD drive for another HDD as well.  This way you can get a smaller SSD for your OS and programs and a regular HDD for your &quot;storage.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/25oYRUo&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SPnhAm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://amzn.to/1URJxKZ&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://amzn.to/22Bmjip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2374" RevisionGUID="8cd31d90-39d6-427a-9add-0e9dac064b01" CreationDate="2016-03-26T02:28:21.663" UserId="203" Text="As has been said, Pascal is coming soon, and is expected to have greater performance increases than the Kepler to Maxwell transition (Pascal should be released to public around the end of Q2). However, I wouldn't dismiss multi GPU setups out of hand, though perhaps it makes more sense as a later upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why multiple GPUs are better with Pascal:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pascal Introduces NVlink, which can be used to connect GPUs even when&#xD;&#xA;   the CPU does not support it as in the image below [(image source)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVlink][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Rendering generally scales well with multiple GPUs. SLI is not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(sources: [iray benchmarks][3], [VRED Nvidia article][4], [Vray RT Nvidia article][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - With the introduction of DirectX 12, Split Frame Rendering is making a comeback. Multiple GPU solutions with good game support can have comparable frametime latencies and also allows the graphics cards to not duplicate all the resources across the two memory pools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why you might opt for a single GPU anyway:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Upgradability. You could always drop in a second later. Third GPU scaling is way worse, though that might change with NVlink, a single GPU is still the better option in that respect.&#xD;&#xA; - Support. It's annoying when sometimes SLI doesn't work for a game, and you're stuck with poor performance. You'd also need a slightly bigger PSU and case, because lower end cards are higher clocked, and two obviously take more space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you should also consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's Polaris is also releasing around the same time, and is supposed to have competitive performance per watt. Of course, you might run into problems with vendor specific software, such as those using CUDA, but it goes both ways (well, slightly more in favor of Nvidia, owing to their market share), and AMD hardware generally have better OpenCL performance. If you're not worried about power consumption and you want your computer now, 2 R9 390s would be decently better performing than 2 GTX 970s at high resolutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://devblogs.nvidia.com/parallelforall/nvlink-pascal-stacked-memory-feeding-appetite-big-data/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Pulya.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.migenius.com/products/nvidia-iray/iray-benchmarks-2014&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://devblogs.nvidia.com/parallelforall/vr-sli-accelerating-opengl-virtual-reality-multi-gpu-rendering/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/object/tigar-hare.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="63d3ae13-86df-473e-8c01-e15840833707" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:07:53.687" UserId="2120" Text="I am trying to setup a laptop for my grandparents for video calls, who certainly don't know how to use most technologies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that this question may not be well-suited for this forum. In that case, if you can kindly provide a pointer, I will migrate this question to the appropriate Stackexchange forum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan is to setup a video chat app on boot and use a reliable command-line interface (CLI) to pre-select numbers for them. There will be only two numbers/addresses, mine and my brother's. I have been looking for video chat app that provides an official, long-term-supported CLI on Linux. `Google-Hangout` and `Skype` both have third-party CLI, which may not be up-to-date with the official releases in the future. If my grandparents accidentally update the app, the whole setup may break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The choice of laptop is also crucial. The most important feature here is durability, because the laptop may be dropped to ground accidentally, or a cup of water may go directly onto the keyboard. CPU is not an issue as long as it is enough to power Linux kernel and the app, because video-call is IO-bound I believe. Hard-disk size doesn't matter, and 4GB of RAM is good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd love to let my grandparents skip the steps of starting apps, logging in, selecting video calls, push numbers/addresses etc. For that I will need to setup a bash or other scripts to do these with CLI on boot. That is also why I want to install Linux on the laptop (mainly because I am not familiar with Windows' shells...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Do you guys have a good choice of Video-Chat app in mind? Or do you guys know if `Hangout` or `Skype` in face provides office CLI on Linux?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I have been looking at Rugged Notebook like `Toughbook`, as well as `Lenovo Thinkpad`. Do you guys know about anything more suitable for my grandparents?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many many thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8918" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="63d3ae13-86df-473e-8c01-e15840833707" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:07:53.687" UserId="2120" Text="Durable Laptop and CLI-supported Video-Chat for Grandparents on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8919" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="63d3ae13-86df-473e-8c01-e15840833707" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:07:53.687" UserId="2120" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8921" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="a15f0682-41fc-42f7-bfd0-eddf90542b39" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:13:21.937" UserId="2120" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="I am trying to setup a laptop for my grandparents for video calls, who certainly don't know how to use most technologies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan is to setup a video chat app on boot and use a reliable command-line interface (CLI) to pre-select numbers for them. There will be only two numbers/addresses, mine and my brother's. I have been looking for video chat app that provides an official, long-term-supported CLI on Linux. `Google-Hangout` and `Skype` both have third-party CLI, which may not be up-to-date with the official releases in the future. If my grandparents accidentally update the app, the whole setup may break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The choice of laptop is also crucial. The most important feature here is durability, because the laptop may be dropped to ground accidentally, or a cup of water may go directly onto the keyboard. CPU is not an issue as long as it is enough to power Linux kernel and the app, because video-call is IO-bound I believe. Hard-disk size doesn't matter, and 4GB of RAM is good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd love to let my grandparents skip the steps of starting apps, logging in, selecting video calls, push numbers/addresses etc. For that I will need to setup a bash or other scripts to do these with CLI on boot. That is also why I want to install Linux on the laptop (mainly because I am not familiar with Windows' shells...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Do you guys have a good choice of Video-Chat app with official CLI in mind? Or do you guys know if `Hangout` or `Skype` in fact provides office CLI on Linux?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I have been looking at Rugged Notebook like `Toughbook`, as well as `Lenovo Thinkpad`. Do you guys know about anything more suitable for my grandparents?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many many thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2379" RevisionGUID="59604410-48b9-4110-b157-6662e48de60a" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:23:00.607" UserId="2081" Text="I think you are making this overly complex.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I purchased a [Kindle Fire][1] for my 80 year old aunt and showed her how to use three apps on it.  Netflix, Skype and email.  The out of pocket cost was just over $50 including the case and a stand (so she could watch movies)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I positioned the icons for her so that they were the first things that were there when the device was turned on.  That was Christmas 2015.  I have yet to have a tech support call from her on how to use the device .  However, she has called everyone including her grandson in Guam using Skype - she on the Kindle and he on an XBox.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, this was a woman who got a free laptop from another nephew but the laptop ended up collecting dust because the moment something had to be updated or it generated an error, they had no idea what to do.  Sometimes, the simplest solution is the best solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I regularly get emails and Skype calls from her, but none have been to resolve a tech issue.  That $50 was well worth the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/25pPIe9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8924" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="0e587b7a-1dfa-4d88-9ee4-b1a5b615d552" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:44:56.603" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 193 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am trying to setup a laptop for my grandparents for video calls, who certainly don't know how to use most technologies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan is to setup a video chat app on boot and use a reliable command-line interface (CLI) to pre-select numbers for them. There will be only two numbers/addresses, mine and my brother's. I have been looking for video chat app that provides an official, long-term-supported CLI on Linux. Google Hangouts and Skype both have third-party CLI, which may not be up-to-date with the official releases in the future. If my grandparents accidentally update the app, the whole setup may break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The choice of laptop is also crucial. The most important feature here is durability, because the laptop may be dropped to ground accidentally, or a cup of water may go directly onto the keyboard. CPU is not an issue as long as it is enough to power Linux kernel and the app, because video-call is IO-bound I believe. Hard-disk size doesn't matter, and 4GB of RAM is good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd love to let my grandparents skip the steps of starting apps, logging in, selecting video calls, push numbers/addresses etc. For that I will need to setup a bash or other scripts to do these with CLI on boot. That is also why I want to install Linux on the laptop (mainly because I am not familiar with Windows' shells...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at rugged notebooks like Toughbook, as well as Lenovo Thinkpad. Do you guys know about anything more suitable for my grandparents?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8925" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2377" RevisionGUID="0e587b7a-1dfa-4d88-9ee4-b1a5b615d552" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:44:56.603" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 193 characters in body; edited title" Text="Durable laptop and CLI-supported video chat for grandparents on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8930" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2361" RevisionGUID="23be6139-b3f4-47ab-b8db-b1d355189c48" CreationDate="2016-03-26T20:41:06.080" UserId="40" Comment="add link" Text="I would start with only systems that are &quot;self contained&quot;, meaning they need no software or special drivers installed.  These units will be recognized as a standard mouse and the OS will use a standard HID driver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are 2 main technologies used in developing head controlled mice.  Accelerometer/Gyro based systems like [eeZee Mouse][1] Tracer and Headmaster are generally the FASTEST and MOST ACCURATE.  The camera based systems which track head or eye movement seem to be the most widely marketed, although often more expensive and somewhat less responsive; including: Accupoint, Camera Mouse, myGaze, ViVo Mouse, Eagle Eyes, Erica, Eye Gaze, Eye Guide, Eye Mouse, Quick Glance, PCEye, Vision Key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most reputable manufacturers have a demo or loaner program in order to &quot;test drive&quot; their products for little or no cost.  Each state has a [lending library][2] of Assistive Technology devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An old medical evaluation of head-controlled mice can be found under the title of &quot;[Efficacy of three head-pointing devices for a mouse emulation task](http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14651252)&quot;.  My newbie status prevents me from including more than 2 links.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lazeetek.com/html/eezee_mouse.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.resnaprojects.org/nattap/activities/deviceloans.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14651252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8931" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="060a4acc-92ca-409f-a87b-6ccd7a273751" CreationDate="2016-03-26T20:50:41.720" UserId="40" Comment="add prices" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse controlled with neck movements. I have found [SmartNav](https://naturalpoint.com/smartnav/) (400 to 600 USD), [TrackerPro](http://www.spectronics.com.au/product/tracker-pro) (1550 USD), [HeadMouse Extreme/Nano](http://www.orin.com/access/headmouse/) (995 USD) and [HeadMaster](http://www.evas.com/Datasheets/DataSheet088.htm) (?? USD). How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor? My setting is multi-monitor (6). I am open to other devices as well (controlled with neck movements)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8933" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2371" RevisionGUID="6155ca39-7cda-4e06-9b50-63c7c9f8ecbc" CreationDate="2016-03-26T21:10:16.600" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8934" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2371" RevisionGUID="25b4edfe-27de-46f7-abea-ad569326ebac" CreationDate="2016-03-26T21:31:32.230" UserId="2081" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="I just check on Amazon for the [ULM100USB.][1] and in the Q&amp;A someone from Behringer said that it works on Macs.  Have you contacted their customer service department?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommendation:  Given that their website and product brochure says that it's compatible with a Mac, you should stick with that product.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From their [product brochure:][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would double check the specs, or clarify your question because everything I am finding says this works with OS X (and I can't see why it wouldn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for bluetooth and WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I seriously doubt that you are going to find a pro level mic that transmits over either of these technologies.   Why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bluetooth is limited to 30 feet and a PC/Mac will only work with one bluetooth audio device at a time.**  This makes it rather impractical to develop a wireless mic system when you can only have 1 mic paired to 1 computer and you can't go any further than 30 feet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**WiFi gets around the 30 foot limitation but the audio quality will be horrible.**  WiFi is wireless IP which is packetized.  So forgetting about the DAC (digital audio conversion) that must be done, it will then take those digital signals and put them in packets, blast them out over the network to the receiving device, reassemble them, convert them back with another DAC then process them.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Shorter version of that?*  Think VoIP.  It's really neat from time to time but it can get horrible quick the moment there is a traffic storm.  Why would any company build a product for which the quality will inherently be crap due to facts completely outside their control. The answer is...they won't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;radio based stuff&quot; as you called it works off a 2.4Ghz channel which it dedicates to that particular mic.  This way you can have the range of 2.4Ghz and the high quality of a clear signal that it isn't in competition with other mics for bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/22BilpX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://media.music-group.com/media/PLM/data/docs/P0AQD/ULM100USB_ULM200USB_WebBrochure.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vEA6L.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8935" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2371" RevisionGUID="8f0041fd-0b86-405c-a86a-fc7c3ed43d07" CreationDate="2016-03-26T22:57:46.023" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="93320e77-614e-45df-ba85-aad477e7bcd0" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:02:14.957" UserId="2077" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard and easily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottlenecked by memory or topology of the mother board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8940" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="7d38f16d-4a37-420f-b2dd-b0afb2dbadab" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:07:42.773" UserId="2077" Comment="22" />
  <row Id="8943" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2311" RevisionGUID="5257ee36-31a1-4a55-b573-dde7c20078d7" CreationDate="2016-03-27T16:30:22.990" UserId="2043" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="Primarily I am going to be using VS 2015 (Visual Studio) and later editions, so we can safely assume there is a lot of memory-hogging and processor-crunching.&#xD;&#xA;I need a laptop which wouldn't cost me time in terms of compilation/execution &#xD;&#xA;Although I would prefer SSD, I am willing to look at other options like SSHD/HDD if they do fit the bill. Or a third option wherein I could buy HDD and then replace it with SSD bought separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: $1000&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I am going to be travelling a fair bit around the country, yes. But not frequently.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery backup: ~4-5 hours at least&#xD;&#xA;- Screen: 15&quot; should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;- SSD : 256 ideally. but am willing to go a little lesser here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, though I prefer SSD for performance reasons, I am willing to look at cheaper alternatives which might give comparable performance like the SSHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Location is India.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8955" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="3d1b4dfb-35ce-4748-a9f1-961d84d8ac3c" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:22:09.560" UserId="1033" Text="I'm looking for some cheap and mobile computer. The PC will be a server, so it needs to be able to connect to the internet(preferably by wifi as well as ethernet), and connect to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, priority is processing power, energy usage and price are priorities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of some Raspberry PI, but I've heard somewhere that there are often better/cheaper alternatives. What would you recommend for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8956" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="3d1b4dfb-35ce-4748-a9f1-961d84d8ac3c" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:22:09.560" UserId="1033" Text="Cheap, mobile server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8957" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="3d1b4dfb-35ce-4748-a9f1-961d84d8ac3c" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:22:09.560" UserId="1033" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="73f8e9b0-aaed-496d-bc77-9cc234dea59e" CreationDate="2016-03-27T20:05:16.680" UserId="1033" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for some cheap and mobile computer. The PC will be a server, so it needs to be able to connect to the internet(preferably by wifi as well as ethernet), and connect to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, priority is processing power, energy usage and price are priorities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of some Raspberry PI, but I've heard somewhere that there are often better/cheaper alternatives. What would you recommend for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. The price cap is ~40$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="7e84c7ef-07e8-47e0-a77c-a8752eb96573" CreationDate="2016-03-27T20:06:41.590" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for some cheap and mobile computer. The PC will be a server, so it needs to be able to connect to the Internet (preferably by wifi as well as ethernet), and connect to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, priorities are processing power, energy usage and price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of a Raspberry Pi, but I've heard somewhere that there are often better/cheaper alternatives. What would you recommend for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price cap is ~40$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2387" RevisionGUID="81e9c8ea-becb-4625-9128-c9d39395abfc" CreationDate="2016-03-28T07:00:37.430" UserId="531" Text="There's pretty few options that are cheaper than the rpi. Quite frankly, there's nothing with the same *support* and for the moment the same power as an rpi 3, at that sort of price range. Off the top of my head odroid's lower end stuff's at the same price point, and I've considered them (and ended up spending a fair bit more and getting a NUC, for other reasons).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have nowhere near the same options for OSes but they have two models with the same price point and roughly similar performance. *Unlike* the RPI models, they have gigabit ethernet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd take a look at the odroid c1+ or c2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The c1+ has &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Amlogic ARM® Cortex®-A5(ARMv7) 1.5Ghz quad core CPUs &#xD;&#xA;    * Mali™-450 MP2 GPU (OpenGL ES 2.0/1.1 enabled for Linux and Android)&#xD;&#xA;    * 1Gbyte DDR3 SDRAM&#xD;&#xA;    * Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the c2 has&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    * Amlogic ARM® Cortex®-A53(ARMv8) 2Ghz quad core CPUs &#xD;&#xA;    * Mali™-450 GPU (3 Pixel-processors + 2 Vertex shader processors)&#xD;&#xA;    * 2Gbyte DDR3 SDRAM&#xD;&#xA;    * Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;    * HDMI 2.0 4K/60Hz display&#xD;&#xA;    * H.265 4K/60FPS and H.264 4K/30FPS capable VPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the c2 is getting released in april&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reviews seem [positive][1], and the c1 compares well to a rpi2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]:http://www.androidauthority.com/odroid-c1-review-597468/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8975" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="8d72710c-992d-4bc2-bc7b-c7d1a4da8bf2" CreationDate="2016-03-28T08:59:10.393" UserId="2133" Text="I am a game developer who mouses quite a lot for programming, Audio editing, graphics editing, video editing, gaming and many other tasks.&#xA;&#xA;I need a good and **reliable** wired mouse I can use with either hand, as I am constantly switching hands when working.&#xA;&#xA;Features I need:&#xA;&#xA; - ambidextrous&#xA; - at least five buttons&#xA; - scrollwheel that gives feedback&#xA; - wired&#xA; - reliable enough that lasts for a few years of heavy mousing&#xA; - **reliable scrolling**&#xA; - plug and play. No drivers so it works out of the box in whatever operating system I chose&#xA;&#xA;Things I don't need (but can live with)&#xA;&#xA; - lighting&#xA; - programmability&#xA; - high dpi&#xA; - strange designs&#xA;&#xA;Things I don't want&#xA;&#xA; - drivers&#xA; - wireless&#xA; - tons of buttons&#xA;&#xA;So in general I am looking for an advanced professional mouse as opposed to a gaming mouse. Not unlike the das keyboard for keyboards.&#xA;&#xA;For many years I used the IntelliMouse optical, which was great except for some scrolling issues until Microsoft decided to can it.&#xA;&#xA;The proposed replacement, which I believe was the Comfort Mouse 4500 had a very loose scrollwheel that scrolled just by resting your finger in it.&#xA;&#xA;After some research I moved to the SteelSeries Sensei RAW, which pretty much has everything I need, but the scrollwheel very often scrolls incorrectly, enough for it to be annoying. This has happened with two separate mice, and many users report similar problems.&#xA;&#xA;I know the scrollwheel is a difficult part to get right, as it moves a lot inside and out of the mouse, catching dust and other stuff, and that is why I am looking for a well built mouse to stand the rigors of scrolling a lot.&#xA;&#xA;I also wonder, why isn't there a category of high quality non-gaming mice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8976" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="8d72710c-992d-4bc2-bc7b-c7d1a4da8bf2" CreationDate="2016-03-28T08:59:10.393" UserId="2133" Text="Reliable ambidextrous wired mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8977" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="8d72710c-992d-4bc2-bc7b-c7d1a4da8bf2" CreationDate="2016-03-28T08:59:10.393" UserId="2133" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="9d42ea09-b2b6-4ccb-bd07-b85b18eea35c" CreationDate="2016-03-28T10:45:42.637" UserId="8" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I am a game developer who mouses quite a lot for programming, audio editing, graphics editing, video editing, gaming and many other tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a good and **reliable** wired mouse I can use with either hand, as I am constantly switching hands when working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ambidextrous&#xD;&#xA; - at least five buttons&#xD;&#xA; - scrollwheel that gives feedback&#xD;&#xA; - wired&#xD;&#xA; - reliable enough that lasts for a few years of heavy mousing&#xD;&#xA; - **reliable scrolling**&#xD;&#xA; - plug and play. No drivers so it works out of the box in whatever operating system I choose&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't need (but can live with)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - lighting&#xD;&#xA; - programmability&#xD;&#xA; - high dpi&#xD;&#xA; - strange designs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - drivers&#xD;&#xA; - wireless&#xD;&#xA; - tons of buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in general I am looking for an advanced professional mouse as opposed to a gaming mouse. Not unlike the das keyboard for keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For many years I used the IntelliMouse optical, which was great except for some scrolling issues until Microsoft decided to can it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The proposed replacement, which I believe was the Comfort Mouse 4500 had a very loose scrollwheel that scrolled just by resting your finger in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some research I moved to the SteelSeries Sensei RAW, which pretty much has everything I need, but the scrollwheel very often scrolls incorrectly, enough for it to be annoying. This has happened with two separate mice, and many users report similar problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know the scrollwheel is a difficult part to get right, as it moves a lot inside and out of the mouse, catching dust and other stuff, and that is why I am looking for a well built mouse to stand the rigors of scrolling a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also wonder, why isn't there a category of high quality non-gaming mice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2391" RevisionGUID="4ff0f149-9da9-478b-a777-eb1afd47631f" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:09:57.293" UserId="2135" Text="I'm looking to replace my existing development laptop (java, .net, android apps, etc).  I usually run a number of virtuals (some windows and some linux) so at least 32GB RAM is a must.  Here is what I am looking for in general:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (or more)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - 17&quot; screen ( or larger )&#xD;&#xA; - keyboard should have 10-key number pad and have great tactile feedback (not like my kids' cheap laptops that I can barely type on)&#xD;&#xA; - Linux as the host OS (it can come with Windows as long as I can upgrade to Linux and all the components are compatible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't really care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - weight (if it weighs 10 pounds or more, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - high-end graphics capabilites, although I will want to drive a couple or three monitors for all these virtuals, so maybe I need something decent.  However, I won't be gaming with it.&#xD;&#xA; - touch screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget $2500-$3000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such an animal exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TNT&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2391" RevisionGUID="4ff0f149-9da9-478b-a777-eb1afd47631f" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:09:57.293" UserId="2135" Text="High-end developer laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2391" RevisionGUID="4ff0f149-9da9-478b-a777-eb1afd47631f" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:09:57.293" UserId="2135" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2392" RevisionGUID="9c4defd8-48ff-42ef-9cf8-0b004e7df85d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:26:40.877" UserId="2136" Text="I'm looking to self-build a PC that will last at least 4-5 years without needing upgrading. I will be looking to dual-boot Windows and Linux, run Adobe CS programs from Photoshop through to After Effects/Premiere, and want something that will be capable of smoothly running 3D modeling software in the future (or at least be possible to expand to be capable of this in the future).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm new to the world of hardware, so may be way off the mark - please be kind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth getting an Intel Core i7 or should I opt for an i5 for now? Do I need a Hex core or can I stick to a quad? I've seen getting a SSD is worth it. Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 8GB memory enough or should I plump for 16GB?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How high spec a graphics card do I need? Is this up to the job: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Nvidia-Graphics-Card-PCI-E/dp/B00NM3BWVS ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need a GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice you can give!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2392" RevisionGUID="9c4defd8-48ff-42ef-9cf8-0b004e7df85d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:26:40.877" UserId="2136" Text="First time PC Desktop build for budding designer/developer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2392" RevisionGUID="9c4defd8-48ff-42ef-9cf8-0b004e7df85d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:26:40.877" UserId="2136" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="0c001b26-14b6-4e7e-8bc7-8666e1c3b03d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:33:47.253" UserId="2137" Text="For reasons I'll not get into I'm seriously considering dropping my smart phone and purchasing a feature phone for use for at least a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple phone but I'm not completely ready to just give up all features that come standard with all current smart devices.  Specifically, I have a wife and a couple of kids and their is something to be appreciated about having the ability to pull your phone out of your pocket and take a good (enough) photo for family history.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm not interested in having a devices that REQUIRES a data plan, has an app store, has a built in GPS, etc., etc. and comes along with all the trappings that come with a constantly connected device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like just a simple phone with the basics (voice &amp; texting) and a rather decent camera that can be used with most carriers in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist and, if so, what are my options?  From my own personal research, you have two options.  You can get a sophisticated, capable smart phone with more than you need functionality, or you can get a really, *really* basic phone that does nothing more than offer voice and text.  I need something a little more close to the center.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also say that cost doesn't matter.  I'd rather not spend $600 on a feature phone but if one exists that's a bit rugged (e.g. can realistically work for 3+ years), has an exceptional camera and has a responsive UI... I could probably convince myself into buying said device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTE** I tried to add a tag *cell-phone* but I don't have the rep for this.  If anyone has the rep to add the tag, please add.  Also, after reading the FAQ and following [this Meta post][1], this question should be on-topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="0c001b26-14b6-4e7e-8bc7-8666e1c3b03d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:33:47.253" UserId="2137" Text="Looking for a quality feature phone, with a good camera for use within the USA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="0c001b26-14b6-4e7e-8bc7-8666e1c3b03d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:33:47.253" UserId="2137" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2391" RevisionGUID="7694725b-70af-4026-a6ca-a957a3995fe7" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:37:11.570" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to replace my existing development laptop (java, .net, android apps, etc).  I usually run a number of virtuals (some windows and some linux) so at least 32GB RAM is a must.  Here is what I am looking for in general:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (or more)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - 17&quot; screen ( or larger )&#xD;&#xA; - keyboard should have 10-key number pad and have great tactile feedback (not like my kids' cheap laptops that I can barely type on)&#xD;&#xA; - Linux as the host OS (it can come with Windows as long as I can upgrade to Linux and all the components are compatible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't really care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - weight (if it weighs 10 pounds or more, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - high-end graphics capabilities, although I will want to drive a couple or three monitors for all these virtuals, so maybe I need something decent.  However, I won't be gaming with it.&#xD;&#xA; - touch screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget $2500-$3000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such an animal exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8995" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2392" RevisionGUID="bb52f171-9b01-4938-878b-23a5fb6e13ff" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:37:46.183" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="8996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2394" RevisionGUID="0599b491-b6da-4933-a1a0-8aa5cd58b53c" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:39:21.203" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="I would like to add to what T.J.L. said (i completely agree with him). Software/MB raid is bad!!! Unfortunately for you, any solution that you choose that is going to be sufficient is going to be expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are your choices as I see them:&#xD;&#xA;This card has some good recommendations: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816117153&amp;Tpk=Intel%20RS2BL040&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=imc5dvz3r0000a1700053&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;keep in mind its Intel so there should be no issues with setup. (or choose a similar card, i know they are expensive, but you get what you pay for) Its pretty much a carbon copy of an LSI card but with Intel firmware. You should get a UPS if you go this route!!!!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a NAS I would recommend Synology DiskStation DS1515+ &#xD;&#xA;I have a DS216+ (I love it, a lot of features).&#xD;&#xA;It is easy to expand and you can easily add or upgrade drives in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to get a Synology DS1515+ or 1815+ and map a network drive to your PC. Now this is going to be a bit slower, but you can bridge all the ports on the NAS to work together to get you more throughput + a 1Gb switch or connection should work (no promises, you will need to test this for yourself). Be sure to get the &quot;+&quot; versions. the others are underpowered in my opinion. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8997" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="6153dc61-f0b3-455e-9d44-c23fda1f80be" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:40:11.493" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8998" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="6153dc61-f0b3-455e-9d44-c23fda1f80be" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:40:11.493" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="For reasons I'll not get into I'm seriously considering dropping my smart phone and purchasing a feature phone for use for at least a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple phone but I'm not completely ready to just give up all features that come standard with all current smart devices.  Specifically, I have a wife and a couple of kids and their is something to be appreciated about having the ability to pull your phone out of your pocket and take a good (enough) photo for family history.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm not interested in having a devices that REQUIRES a data plan, has an app store, has a built in GPS, etc., etc. and comes along with all the trappings that come with a constantly connected device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like just a simple phone with the basics (voice &amp; texting) and a rather decent camera that can be used with most carriers in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist and, if so, what are my options?  From my own personal research, you have two options.  You can get a sophisticated, capable smartphone with more than you need functionality, or you can get a really, *really* basic phone that does nothing more than offer voice and text.  I need something a little more close to the center.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also say that cost doesn't matter.  I'd rather not spend $600 on a feature phone but if one exists that's a bit rugged (e.g. can realistically work for 3+ years), has an exceptional camera and has a responsive UI... I could probably convince myself into buying said device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8999" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="8faee927-a323-45ef-9fc0-797414cb6d2d" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:38:21.227" UserId="2137" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="For reasons I'll not get into I'm seriously considering dropping my smart phone and purchasing a feature phone for use for at least a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple phone but I'm not completely ready to just give up all features that come standard with all current smart devices.  Specifically, I have a wife and a couple of kids and their is something to be appreciated about having the ability to pull your phone out of your pocket and take a good (enough) photo for family history.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm not interested in having a devices that REQUIRES a data plan, has an app store, has a built in GPS, etc., etc. and comes along with all the trappings that come with a constantly connected device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like just a simple phone with the basics (voice &amp; texting) and a rather decent camera that can be used with most carriers in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist and, if so, what are my options?  From my own personal research, you have two options.  You can get a sophisticated, capable smartphone with more-than-you-need functionality, or you can get a really, *really* basic phone that does nothing more than offer voice and text.  I need something a little more close to the center of those options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also say that cost doesn't matter.  I'd rather not spend $600 on a feature phone but if one exists that's a bit rugged (e.g. can realistically work for 3+ years), has an exceptional camera and has a responsive UI... I could probably convince myself into buying said device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9004" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2396" RevisionGUID="b57d9e3a-24f2-44a7-8d82-d98734af76ae" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:00:23.083" UserId="2141" Text="Is there a docking station that is compatible with both 13&quot; MacBook Pro (2015 model A1502) and a Surface Pro 3?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for one that has  &#xD;&#xA;1. Connectivity up to two monitors (DVI/HDMI/VGA)  &#xD;&#xA;2. Ethernet adapter  &#xD;&#xA;3. 1 USB Port  &#xD;&#xA;4. Portable  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9005" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2396" RevisionGUID="b57d9e3a-24f2-44a7-8d82-d98734af76ae" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:00:23.083" UserId="2141" Text="Docking Station for Surface Pro 3 and 13&quot; MacBook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9006" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2396" RevisionGUID="b57d9e3a-24f2-44a7-8d82-d98734af76ae" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:00:23.083" UserId="2141" Text="&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="49c19b38-c8c0-44ce-a4d7-70e3e0469b91" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:05:14.533" UserId="2143" Text="I am not sure if I am allowed to ask such a question in this board.  &#xD;&#xA;Normally I am just using stackoverflow and hardwarerecs was recommended in StackExchange. If the following question is not for this place, pls tell me an other board where such questions are allowed/possible:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;At the moment I am using this computer :  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)  &#xD;&#xA;    Moherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: QuadCore Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16364 MB (DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series  &#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware.  &#xD;&#xA;The graphics card now broke and I need a new one. One with the following knollage:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. hopefully better then the old one, but at least the same performance.  &#xD;&#xA;2. a Geforce  &#xD;&#xA;3. one that supports GPU render (the old one does not. at least adobe premiere is telling me :( )  &#xD;&#xA;4. and of course one, that fits in the system^^  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;do you know an graphics card with this specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;this is my main question.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Additionally maybe you have also an other idea how to get more performance. is there an component, that I should change?  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I really hope, such a questions belongs in this board. if not, pls tell me.  &#xD;&#xA;And thanks for any help.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;greetings,  &#xD;&#xA;Chriss  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;PS.: Sorry for my bad english :(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9009" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="49c19b38-c8c0-44ce-a4d7-70e3e0469b91" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:05:14.533" UserId="2143" Text="equivalent graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9010" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="49c19b38-c8c0-44ce-a4d7-70e3e0469b91" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:05:14.533" UserId="2143" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="f07227a7-6a46-4116-8f44-0e97cca03d3b" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:31:21.760" UserId="279" Comment="Fixed English, removed fluff, narrowed the scope" Text="I am not sure if I am allowed to ask such a question in this board.  &#xD;&#xA;Normally I am just using stackoverflow and hardwarerecs was recommended in StackExchange. If the following question is not for this place, please tell me another board where such questions are allowed.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;At the moment I am using this computer :  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)  &#xD;&#xA;    Moherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: QuadCore Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16364 MB (DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB   4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)  &#xD;&#xA;    graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series  &#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware.  &#xD;&#xA;The graphics card now broke and I need a new one. One with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better then the old one, but at least the same performance.  &#xD;&#xA;2. A Geforce  &#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU render (the old one does not. at least adobe premiere is telling me :( )  &#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one, that fits in the system.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9016" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="f07227a7-6a46-4116-8f44-0e97cca03d3b" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:31:21.760" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by -1 edit id of 419" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="16946385-d25b-4b38-8d80-42c24bb0b6ce" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:31:21.760" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar; removed fluff; narrowed scope; improved formatting for readability" Text="I am not sure if I am allowed to ask such a question in this board. Normally I am just using Stack Overflow and Hardware Recs was recommended in Stack Exchange. If the following question is not for this place, please tell me another board where such questions are allowed.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;At the moment I am using this computer:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Moherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series&#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card now broke and I need a new one. One with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better then the old one, but at least the same performance&#xD;&#xA;2. A Geforce&#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU render (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)&#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one that fits in the system&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9018" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="16946385-d25b-4b38-8d80-42c24bb0b6ce" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:31:21.760" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar; removed fluff; narrowed scope; improved formatting for readability" Text="Equivalent graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9020" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="6489fb82-1645-4d3d-8815-be0ad890d7c1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:53:59.673" UserId="2143" Comment="added 238 characters in body" Text="I am not sure if I am allowed to ask such a question in this board. Normally I am just using Stack Overflow and Hardware Recs was recommended in Stack Exchange. If the following question is not for this place, please tell me another board where such questions are allowed.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;At the moment I am using this computer:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Moherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series&#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W  &#xD;&#xA;    case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card now broke and I need a new one. One with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better then the old one, but at least the same performance&#xD;&#xA;2. A Geforce&#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU render (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)&#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one that fits in the system&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;I thought that I can get such a graphics card with around 600€. However, I am also willing to go a little higher." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="711729df-24a9-4af4-b573-bc60416ef9e6" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:54:57.200" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 275 characters in body" Text="At the moment I am using this computer:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series&#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W  &#xD;&#xA;    case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card is now broken and I need a new one with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better than the old one, but at least the same performance&#xD;&#xA;2. A GeForce&#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU rendering (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)&#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one that fits in the system&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;I thought that I can get such a graphics card with around 600€. However, I am also willing to go a little higher." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2396" RevisionGUID="02d5449c-a06a-4c04-b20f-de0345acf3c6" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:55:20.900" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 13 characters in body" Text="Is there a docking station that is compatible with both 13&quot; MacBook Pro (2015 model A1502) and a Surface Pro 3?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for one that has  &#xD;&#xA;1. Connectivity up to two monitors (DVI/HDMI/VGA)  &#xD;&#xA;2. Ethernet adapter  &#xD;&#xA;3. 1 USB Port  &#xD;&#xA;4. Portable  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="462c7730-b856-4e06-8e2f-ebfac3a00a38" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:00:00.377" UserId="2143" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="At the moment I am using this computer:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series&#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W  &#xD;&#xA;    case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card is now broken and I need a new one with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better than the old one, but at least the same performance&#xD;&#xA;2. A GeForce&#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU rendering (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)&#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one that fits in the system&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;I thought that I can get such a graphics card with a maximum of 600€. However, I am also willing to go a little higher if this is necessary, but I don't think so, based on amazon and co." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2400" RevisionGUID="a9216607-8571-4459-a267-76cbfa1515f4" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:09:19.367" UserId="279" Text="I would recommend the gtx 980 TI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is a geforce.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It performs [WAY](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-980-Ti-vs-AMD-HD-6850/3439vsm7743) better than your old card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Very modern, definitely supports rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Draws 250 W, so with your power supply, you should be able to handle it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with your [motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2c6kCJ), and your case. This card is 282mm, and your case advertises a [maximum length](http://www.quietpc.com/ae-rs9-group) of 295mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Costs about 650 USD, which (according to google) is less than 600€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side note, right now this is pretty much the best GPU on the market. The Titan X outperforms it, but is significantly more expensive. This card is a great choice for what you have described. If you want something a little bit cheaper, you could go with a regular GTX 980 which will save you about 100€." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2401" RevisionGUID="2713a013-3c0a-467f-a6f8-71b7711348a5" CreationDate="2016-03-29T03:29:09.843" UserId="2146" Text="Alienware would be my recommendation will meet all your specs as standard besides the RAM and touchscreen and will meet the budget as well the last quote i got from them was below your upper limit but that was with a business discount. you also get extras like,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 yr Next business day warranty which you can choose to extend.&#xD;&#xA; - RGB configurable LED Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA; - awesome styling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Interestingly enough you can also purchase a graphics adapter to add desktop grade graphics, Nice if you need extra power while at a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can't speak to Linux support i have in the past ran it on dell laptops without much issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;all these details are available via the below link, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/au/p/alienware-17-r3/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alienware 17 inch&#xD;&#xA;$2,799.001&#xD;&#xA;Powered by Intel Core i7-6700HQ Processor,&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Home,&#xD;&#xA;8GB memory, &#xD;&#xA;GTX 970M, &#xD;&#xA;Full HD display, &#xD;&#xA;1TB hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2402" RevisionGUID="a4f779ec-723b-4527-82f6-66f665b7de50" CreationDate="2016-03-29T09:24:21.110" UserId="2148" Text="You might want to investigate the Thinkpad from Lenovo as well. W550, P50, P70... They are all high end machines and they have various options so that you can tailor the machine to your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the &quot;killer&quot; feature - for me - was the docking station (purchased separately) that gives the ability to move the laptop around while still having a &quot;proper&quot; screen, keyboard and mouse when you are sitting in your home office. The best of both worlds.&#xD;&#xA;While you didn't mention &quot;docks&quot;, maybe this could fit all of your keyboard requirements if 90% of your work is done on a desk and not &quot;on the go&quot; (you can then purchase any keyboard and plug it to the dock, which is what I did with mine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support is great as well and professional (at least here in the UK) - and when I purchased mine, I got the extended warranty which was very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the Lenovo laptops are fairly easy to open and there are lots of manuals in case you want/need to replace the components by yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bill can add up quite quickly at purchase if you go for the best machine, though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="1388aa6c-7896-4884-b0f6-e9bd03c49b96" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:03:14.730" UserId="2077" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard and easily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottlenecked by memory or topology of the mother board. The motherboard may not be easily available so can also suggest whom to contact to get one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9048" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="ce7413c5-54bd-4731-9e06-e6d286abd0ad" CreationDate="2016-03-29T15:57:04.330" UserId="8" Comment="22" />
  <row Id="9050" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2400" RevisionGUID="36307057-f96c-4ced-ad76-ff87e7310f60" CreationDate="2016-03-29T17:01:01.930" UserId="279" Comment="added 1145 characters in body" Text="I would recommend the gtx 980 TI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is a geforce.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It performs [WAY](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-980-Ti-vs-AMD-HD-6850/3439vsm7743) better than your old card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Draws 250 W, so with your power supply, you should be able to handle it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with your [motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2c6kCJ), and your case. This card is 282mm, and your case advertises a [maximum length](http://www.quietpc.com/ae-rs9-group) of 295mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Costs about 650 USD, which (according to google) is less than 600€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &lt;s&gt;Very modern, definitely supports rendering.&lt;/s&gt; *Probably* supports rendering. It isn't [officially listed](https://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/system-requirements.html) on adobe's list of support GPUs, but it probably works anyway. You might have some tinkering/hacking to get it to work. Also, there are some benchmarks showing [unsupported cards](https://www.studio1productions.com/Articles/Premiere-Benchmark.htm), including the standard GTX 980, working well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side note, right now this is pretty much the best GPU on the market. The Titan X outperforms it, but is significantly more expensive. This card is a great choice for what you have described. If you want something a little bit cheaper, you could go with a regular GTX 980 which will save you about 100€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're scared by this card not being supported, you could go with the GTX 780.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is officially supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Some benchmarks](https://www.studio1productions.com/Articles/Premiere-Benchmark.htm) show it outperforming the 980 TI, which is strange since it is significantly less powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Less powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Older. It was released in 2013.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Half the VRAM. (3 GB vs 6 GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Expensive for a card that is 2, almost 3 generations old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I would still recommend the 980 TI. I don't think it's worth it to drop 600 on a 2-generation old card. Hopefully future versions of premier will officially support the newest cards better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="6cc584c7-06eb-4c69-aceb-4e644f4fe648" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:20:53.543" UserId="15" Text="I have Intel Compute Stick which has HDMI male connector as output which I would like to connect to Macbook Pro which has HDMI port (female), USB and ThunderBolt Mini DisplayPort. My goal is to see the screen of the device on my laptop screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried to connect the device to MBP HDMI port, but it doesn't work, so I assume I need to purchase some converter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need to have in order to capture display output from the stick device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would ThunderBolt to HDMI adapter cable would work in that case, or some kind of [virtual webcam][1] or anything else? I've no budget limits (just reasonable price to quality). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/631/15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9052" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="6cc584c7-06eb-4c69-aceb-4e644f4fe648" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:20:53.543" UserId="15" Text="How to connect Intel Compute Stick to Mac to see the output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9053" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="6cc584c7-06eb-4c69-aceb-4e644f4fe648" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:20:53.543" UserId="15" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9054" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="0dc40978-844b-4029-8e6e-b40e029adf0f" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:38:02.900" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9055" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2407" RevisionGUID="662dc512-2336-4873-a4cd-83b815cccee5" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:42:03.790" UserId="219" Text="Looking for an HDMI switch that has at least 4 inputs (1 output) and can be controlled/automated (preferably over Ethernet)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9056" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2407" RevisionGUID="662dc512-2336-4873-a4cd-83b815cccee5" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:42:03.790" UserId="219" Text="Network controlled HDMI switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9057" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2407" RevisionGUID="662dc512-2336-4873-a4cd-83b815cccee5" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:42:03.790" UserId="219" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2407" RevisionGUID="735aa3d2-aca0-410a-a360-547a39a53cef" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:50:37.180" UserId="219" Comment="added 321 characters in body" Text="Looking for an HDMI switch that has at least 4 inputs (1 output) and can be controlled/automated (preferably over Ethernet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget is highly flexible so long as the minimum requirements are met. If a higher budget grants extra features, I'm all ears. So long as I can have something (free or otherwise) control the switch either automatically or with something other than the TV or TV remote, I'll be happy. Any form factor is fair game." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9059" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="069b35f4-546a-4dd6-82c8-a368282ba10b" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:32:29.250" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Adapter to connect Intel Compute Stick to Mac to see the output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2408" RevisionGUID="150a374c-c4bd-4a08-ad0a-1a84411ec653" CreationDate="2016-03-29T22:02:08.663" UserId="2081" Text="I am assuming that you want to connect the Intel Compute Stick to something that you can view the output of the device, correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First off, you cannot connect it into the HDMI port of your MacBook Pro.  That's output only.  That's like trying to connect the HDMI out port on a DVD player to the HDMI port on a game console - it's not going to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you need is a monitor with an HDMI port as an input.  Any monitor with an HDMI port will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to capture the video, you need a video capture device.  The [Elgato Gaming Video Capture][1] products have been really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2409" RevisionGUID="1ccce1c0-f403-471e-ac72-4628c74536fb" CreationDate="2016-03-29T22:10:54.337" UserId="2081" Text="There is one company that I have seen that makes a pretty good product for this - [Gefen][1].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have a multi-view switcher that takes 4 HDMI inputs and scales them, sizes them and outputs them either full screeen or in a &quot;windowed&quot; layout on a single HDMI montor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gefen.com/kvm/ext-hd-mvsl-441.jsp?prod_id=14882" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9062" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2398" RevisionGUID="04d178d4-6a62-440e-acda-23173ab65f74" CreationDate="2016-03-29T22:42:33.477" UserId="2143" Comment="added 316 characters in body" Text="At the moment I am using this computer:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series&#xD;&#xA;    3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)  &#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W  &#xD;&#xA;    case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card is now broken and I need a new one with the following requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. Hopefully better than the old one, but at least the same performance&#xD;&#xA;2. A GeForce&#xD;&#xA;3. One that supports GPU rendering (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)&#xD;&#xA;4. And of course one that fits in the system&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;I thought that I can get such a graphics card with a maximum of 600€. However, I am also willing to go a little higher if this is necessary, but I don't think so, based on amazon and co.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**  &#xD;&#xA;at the moment there are only two graphic cards mentioned in this thread:  &#xD;&#xA;GTX 980 and GTX 980 TI.  &#xD;&#xA;the first is relatively old and the second is not (yet) supported by adobe. Is this support guaranteed in the future? or does somebody has an other GPU idea? maybe with a similar performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2410" RevisionGUID="e1fcda56-0ded-4c80-9a19-e58d7265d17a" CreationDate="2016-03-29T23:12:54.477" UserId="1551" Text="I am looking for a small drive of some sort for a private server hosted using a desktop computer.  The server will be used as a private proxy.  I only need around 25-50 GB, but everything I find is 500+ GB Hard Drives.  Is there a fast and small internal drive, maybe flash memory?  It would be best to spend less than $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][1] is the smallest drive I could find on Newegg, but it is still way too large and it 3 times the price I am looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236811&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9064" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2410" RevisionGUID="e1fcda56-0ded-4c80-9a19-e58d7265d17a" CreationDate="2016-03-29T23:12:54.477" UserId="1551" Text="Small and inexpensive drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9065" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2410" RevisionGUID="e1fcda56-0ded-4c80-9a19-e58d7265d17a" CreationDate="2016-03-29T23:12:54.477" UserId="1551" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2411" RevisionGUID="41588f5e-ee17-4145-ac39-94e4626eb7b4" CreationDate="2016-03-29T23:33:03.687" UserId="2081" Text="Have you tried [eBay][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a [2GB SSD][2] for about $7 so I could build a pfSense router.  It was perfect for what I needed.  I also bought a 60GB HP SSD for $15.   There are plenty of drives (even new ones) for under $20.  It will just take some hunting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=32gb%20ssd&amp;LH_PrefLoc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=DELL%20WYSE%20X90CW%202GB%20SATA%20SSD%20%28Apacer%20AP-SDM002G4LASS-KS%29%20%20%28PN%3A%208Y.F1B41.7504B%29&amp;_id=141569410635&amp;&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9070" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="3e3f6453-3fc7-4664-b611-827bb46737d8" CreationDate="2016-03-30T05:30:08.257" UserId="2077" Comment="23" />
  <row Id="9071" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2409" RevisionGUID="e47e5f25-32fd-45d9-b366-16662493ba89" CreationDate="2016-03-30T09:51:20.643" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2413" RevisionGUID="6774b090-6752-422a-8384-47e52d11d28f" CreationDate="2016-03-30T12:31:24.390" UserId="672" Text="I am looking to set up a system at work to replace our figures board that we hand write each week.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like;  &#xD;&#xA;50 inch screen,  &#xD;&#xA;At least 1080p resolution,  &#xD;&#xA;USB and Ethernet connectivity,  &#xD;&#xA;Video out (HDMI or Display port etc.),  &#xD;&#xA;It must also be wall mountable.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I have a budget of £1000 but can be a bit flexible. However the cheaper the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One display that meets all my needs is the Samsung DM48E/DM55E but this is a bit pricey. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2413" RevisionGUID="6774b090-6752-422a-8384-47e52d11d28f" CreationDate="2016-03-30T12:31:24.390" UserId="672" Text="Embedded TV for displaying live graphs from server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2413" RevisionGUID="6774b090-6752-422a-8384-47e52d11d28f" CreationDate="2016-03-30T12:31:24.390" UserId="672" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;all-in-one&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2414" RevisionGUID="4ca33b67-ca93-4f07-a2ff-989bcc40a8f4" CreationDate="2016-03-30T12:36:49.407" UserId="1366" Text="You can find HDD's under $20 on newegg.com :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 GB - WD800JD - [$9.99 on newegg.com][1]&#xD;&#xA; - WL 160GB - [$14.99 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD3S65663&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD3KE4385" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="b354d47c-19b1-4fd1-bef7-38275e6c876b" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:02:57.530" UserId="1466" Text="Is there a PC monitor (HDMI or DVI or VGA or USB) which has e-ink matrix?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main goal is to get e-paper as standard display for work. For work with text, it is sufficient and it poses less stress for an eyesight." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9077" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="b354d47c-19b1-4fd1-bef7-38275e6c876b" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:02:57.530" UserId="1466" Text="E-ink monitor / display panel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9078" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="b354d47c-19b1-4fd1-bef7-38275e6c876b" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:02:57.530" UserId="1466" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9079" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="7e5f6c6c-d5b2-4c3d-97ba-6741f70ca87b" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:16:48.690" UserId="1466" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session. The disadvantage is 9.7&quot; Kindle screen which often is too small for use as PC display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperWhite](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink display. The disadvantage is its price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches). Interesting feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][2], but details were not disclosed and obiously it is not available for sale yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.solcomputer.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2417" RevisionGUID="2273bb85-1549-4860-aa4e-73aa601df9de" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:22:56.370" UserId="2156" Text="I want to control several things like lighting via Ethernet using self developed android apps. For this reason I need a solid base hardware with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Rocksolid hardware which doesn't fail after warranty expiration (Like it is the case with the Google Nexus 7)**&#xD;&#xA; - Android OS&#xD;&#xA; - Alternative stable Lolipop-based ROM available&#xD;&#xA; - Rootable&#xD;&#xA; - At least 7&quot; display but not more than 8&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - Price not above 200€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Proximity sensor&#xD;&#xA; - Light sensor&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless charging&#xD;&#xA; - Camera&#xD;&#xA; - Microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the device will be only used as a remote control, performance doesn't matter that much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9081" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2417" RevisionGUID="2273bb85-1549-4860-aa4e-73aa601df9de" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:22:56.370" UserId="2156" Text="Small tablet as control device for home automatization" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9082" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2417" RevisionGUID="2273bb85-1549-4860-aa4e-73aa601df9de" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:22:56.370" UserId="2156" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9083" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="a17ee43e-9fa7-4301-8499-1d88fde9dd34" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:44:39.577" UserId="60" Comment="Created the e-ink tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="2a75fba4-0a64-42d5-b376-6dee5bcc77d1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T14:34:57.777" UserId="2137" Comment="deleted 161 characters in body" Text="For reasons I'll not get into I'm seriously considering dropping my smart phone and purchasing a feature phone for use for at least a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple phone but I'm not completely ready to just give up all features that come standard with all current smart devices.  Specifically, I have a wife and a couple of kids and their is something to be appreciated about having the ability to pull your phone out of your pocket and take a good (enough) photo for family history.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm not interested in having a devices that REQUIRES a data plan, has an app store, has a built in GPS, etc.  I'd like just a simple phone with the basics (voice &amp; texting) and a rather decent camera, that can be used with most carriers in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist?  From my own personal research, you have two options.  You can get a sophisticated, capable smartphone with more-than-you-need functionality, or you can get a really, *really* basic phone that does nothing more than offer voice and text and MAYBE an MP3 player baked in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also say that cost doesn't matter.  I'd rather not spend $600 on a feature phone but if one exists that's a bit rugged (e.g. can realistically work for 3+ years), has an exceptional camera and has a responsive UI... I could probably convince myself into buying said device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9089" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="7fba0bd7-a17b-44af-9417-854df1351cc8" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:04:40.353" UserId="1466" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Is there a PC monitor (HDMI or DVI or VGA or USB) which has e-ink matrix?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main goal is to get e-paper as standard display for work. For work with text, it is sufficient and it poses less stress on an eyesight." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9090" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2410" RevisionGUID="6e6c0270-2db0-48c6-a72e-47f6d742694a" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:17:56.153" UserId="1366" Comment="Added tag." Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9091" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2410" RevisionGUID="6e6c0270-2db0-48c6-a72e-47f6d742694a" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:17:56.153" Comment="Proposed by 1366 approved by 60, 1551 edit id of 420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9092" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="fb99b25a-e2c4-4cf9-8112-93c7868c2899" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:39:01.073" UserId="1466" Comment="added 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is there a PC monitor (HDMI or DVI or VGA or USB) which has e-ink matrix?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main goal is to get e-paper as standard display for work. For work with text, it is sufficient and it poses less stress on an eyesight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody can also expect from it to reduce CVS (Computer vision syndrome) and/or eyestrain." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9093" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="fb99b25a-e2c4-4cf9-8112-93c7868c2899" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:39:01.073" UserId="1466" Comment="added 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="E-ink monitor / display panel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2419" RevisionGUID="e89ed5e3-8586-43ca-94f4-269e26dab645" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:24:29.490" UserId="2161" Text="Hello to all the comunity,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been some time and have come many devices to market. So I wonder, is there any wifi usb adapter that works without error with 802.11ac WiFi standard, and previous, in the 2.4GHz band and the 5GHz and with USB 3.0?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have wifi adapter TP-Link Archer T4U and gives a lot of problems (The first, when I realize that TP-Link does not provide a driver for Linux and you get to look ...) Then when I try to change/read the power transmission, when I try to get the bit rate ... and so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I was wondering if there was a wifi adapter, which works with the 802.11ac standard and USB 3.0 that did not have so many problems and work well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A greeting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AntonioG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2419" RevisionGUID="e89ed5e3-8586-43ca-94f4-269e26dab645" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:24:29.490" UserId="2161" Text="Are there any 802.11ac usb 3.0 adapters working well in Ubuntu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2419" RevisionGUID="e89ed5e3-8586-43ca-94f4-269e26dab645" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:24:29.490" UserId="2161" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2419" RevisionGUID="119a686a-3b29-48b0-9477-4041ae8cae87" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:39:32.077" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed grammar and spelling" Text="Is there any WiFi USB adapter that works without any errors with the 802.11ac WiFi standard in the 2.4GHz and the 5GHz bands with USB 3.0?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a WiFi adapter (TP-Link Archer T4U), but it gives me a lot of problems (One being that TP-Link does not provide a driver for Linux...). There are problems when I try to change/read the power transmission, when I try to get the bit rate, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I was wondering if there was a WiFi adapter that works with the 802.11ac standard and USB 3.0 that does not have so many problems and will work well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2420" RevisionGUID="f87cbb78-0dc5-442f-bcdf-01ae7d7932e4" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:20:05.457" UserId="2162" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can sustain app, web developing and programming in different languages. I also play call of duty occasionally.&#xD;&#xA;Basically what I'm looking for is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel core i5 6200U&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB Hard Disk&#xD;&#xA; - 2GB NVIDIA or AMD Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - 4-8 gb Ram.&#xD;&#xA; - Dell or HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around 660 US$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                                                                             &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9099" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2420" RevisionGUID="f87cbb78-0dc5-442f-bcdf-01ae7d7932e4" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:20:05.457" UserId="2162" Text="Laptop for programming, app and web developing in US$650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9100" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2420" RevisionGUID="f87cbb78-0dc5-442f-bcdf-01ae7d7932e4" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:20:05.457" UserId="2162" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="17c3ae61-5412-4d3f-b6ef-37d010426bcb" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:29:49.367" UserId="1466" Comment="added 659 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][3], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.solcomputer.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9102" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2415" RevisionGUID="f9b10132-dd0c-4a83-a502-55a894582b94" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:41:24.070" UserId="1466" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="Is there a PC monitor (HDMI or DVI or VGA or USB) which has e-ink matrix?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main goal is to get e-paper as standard display for work. For work with text, it is sufficient and it poses less stress on an eyesight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody can also expect from it to reduce CVS ([Computer vision syndrome][1]) and/or eyestrain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_vision_syndrome" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9103" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="0c97790c-9425-4268-95e2-1d14f7abac60" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:47:26.453" UserId="1466" Comment="added 162 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][3], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet. But they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.solcomputer.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="81dfa981-f3a8-4c6f-8991-94b4972d6cbf" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:02:48.927" UserId="1466" Comment="added 259 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; see how it looks in reality][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][4])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]              [&gt;&gt; see how it looks in reality][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][7], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet. But they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="2695b932-6872-475d-a25a-7c5d9185a860" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:12:51.360" UserId="2166" Text="I am in the market for a colour laser multi function printer.  I have the following requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Netwotk (RJ-45) ethernet &#xD;&#xA; - Duplex printing and Scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Document Feeder for scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Scanning and printing should be able to be initiated over network. &#xD;&#xA; - Good linux compatability&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of Budget I would be looking ideally at less than £300, I would consider a recommendation for a unit that would be a good fit that is available 2nd hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ben" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9106" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="2695b932-6872-475d-a25a-7c5d9185a860" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:12:51.360" UserId="2166" Text="Colour Laser MFP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9107" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="2695b932-6872-475d-a25a-7c5d9185a860" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:12:51.360" UserId="2166" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="2f9d7a8e-7fa4-4175-b44c-bdb75ffb2292" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:15:40.723" UserId="1466" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; see how it looks in reality][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][4])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]              [&gt;&gt; see how it looks in reality][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][7], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet. But they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="fbe8557a-f66d-4755-8203-6b8a878167a5" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:16:14.257" UserId="241" Comment="Cleanup" Text="I am in the market for a colour laser multi function printer.  I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet networking (RJ-45) &#xD;&#xA; - Duplex printing and scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Document feeder for scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Scanning and printing should be able to be initiated over network. &#xD;&#xA; - Good Linux compatability&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of budget I would be looking ideally at less than £300.  I would consider a recommendation for a unit that would be a good fit that is available secondhand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="214af700-c19d-4793-9700-9fc45280859c" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:18:46.500" UserId="2159" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS) or Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Aug 13, 2015 2:38 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Further checking, this is a known issue with Windows* 10 and it is not an Intel driver issue. We are working with Microsoft* and Asrock* to resolve this issue. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Sep 7, 2015 1:28 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good day. We received feedback that creating Intel® ANS teams and VLANs on Microsoft* Windows* 10 is currently not supported.  We expect that ANS will be supported on Microsoft* Windows* 10 client in a future release. In case you need teaming feature, you may try revert back to previous OS which can support the teaming. Apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Jan 4, 2016 9:44 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are blocking issues within the OS that prevents the teaming from working correctly.  We are working with MS on the issue.  Once the OS releases a patch to correct the blocking issue we can release drivers that support the teaming features.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to contact MS and ask when their OS will support teaming again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Mar 15, 2016 1:46 PM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bit of real-time data.  We are testing the latest Hotfixes from MS (one for Win10 TH2 and one for Win10 RTM) and are seeing very promising results that the issue appears to fix the Teaming/VLAN issues.  However, until run a full test pass through our SW teams we won't know if fixing this one issue has introduced new issues.  Only a full test pass can reveal theses potentially hidden bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently this is only an issue with the client-based Windows operating systems (including Windows 10).  Windows Server 2012 works, for example - as also detailed at https://community.mellanox.com/docs/DOC-1845.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9111" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="214af700-c19d-4793-9700-9fc45280859c" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:18:46.500" UserId="2159" Text="USB to Ethernet adapter supporting VLAN multiple VLANs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9112" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="214af700-c19d-4793-9700-9fc45280859c" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:18:46.500" UserId="2159" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="3c4d5c1f-b1cc-4602-94e0-b4d918ea9dd6" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:24:09.627" UserId="2159" Comment="Resize pictures, link to as thumbnails." Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS) or Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Aug 13, 2015 2:38 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Further checking, this is a known issue with Windows* 10 and it is not an Intel driver issue. We are working with Microsoft* and Asrock* to resolve this issue. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Sep 7, 2015 1:28 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good day. We received feedback that creating Intel® ANS teams and VLANs on Microsoft* Windows* 10 is currently not supported.  We expect that ANS will be supported on Microsoft* Windows* 10 client in a future release. In case you need teaming feature, you may try revert back to previous OS which can support the teaming. Apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Jan 4, 2016 9:44 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are blocking issues within the OS that prevents the teaming from working correctly.  We are working with MS on the issue.  Once the OS releases a patch to correct the blocking issue we can release drivers that support the teaming features.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to contact MS and ask when their OS will support teaming again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Mar 15, 2016 1:46 PM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bit of real-time data.  We are testing the latest Hotfixes from MS (one for Win10 TH2 and one for Win10 RTM) and are seeing very promising results that the issue appears to fix the Teaming/VLAN issues.  However, until run a full test pass through our SW teams we won't know if fixing this one issue has introduced new issues.  Only a full test pass can reveal theses potentially hidden bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently this is only an issue with the client-based Windows operating systems (including Windows 10).  Windows Server 2012 works, for example - as also detailed at https://community.mellanox.com/docs/DOC-1845.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9114" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="bc651eff-dae2-4cd0-9876-132babff319c" CreationDate="2016-03-31T01:51:20.130" UserId="2159" Comment="At least update the title to match the intent from the author's original question." Text="USB to Ethernet adapter supporting multiple VLANs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9115" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="bc651eff-dae2-4cd0-9876-132babff319c" CreationDate="2016-03-31T01:51:20.130" Comment="Proposed by 2159 approved by 203, 241 edit id of 422" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2423" RevisionGUID="bfc40fb5-183a-4fed-ace1-1c4392a44898" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:53:32.490" UserId="1366" Text="I assume that you are looking for TV in UK. All TV's I listed below have VESA mount so you can mount them on the wall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for cheapest solution I would recommend this TV's (all of them meet your requirements):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **LG 50LF652V** - [£537.55 on transparent-uk.com][1]&#xD;&#xA; - **Philips 50PFH5300** - [£440.33 on www.lambda-tek.com][2]&#xD;&#xA; - **LG 50LF5800** - [£439.08 on www.lambda-tek.com][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://transparent-uk.com/lg-50lf652v-50-full-hd-3d-compatibility-smart-tv-wi-fi-black-led-tv.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lambda-tek.com/Philips-50PFH5300~sh/B2389752&amp;viewOverview=y#product-view&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.lambda-tek.com/LG-50LF5800~sh/B2827314&amp;origin=skinflint30.9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="43f6adcc-51ff-45c2-ae59-206b37a1f9e8" CreationDate="2016-03-31T07:04:16.013" UserId="1466" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][4])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][7], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet. But they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="d71c17be-b4a6-4d40-8ea4-4624b6975d2c" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:16.413" UserId="1410" Text="I bought [the cheapest that Amazon has][1] and found that the battery only lasted a few hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to charge once a week, might accept once per day, but no less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No fancy features necessary (maybe notification of incoming calls &amp; SMS), as I want it primarily for telling the time, but also to program my own apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is tight, can anyone recommend a cheap Android watch with decent battery life, which they have personally used for a while?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Bluetooth-select-Android-Samsung-models/dp/B00KARD0D2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9122" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="d71c17be-b4a6-4d40-8ea4-4624b6975d2c" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:16.413" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap Android watch with at least 24 hour battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9123" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="d71c17be-b4a6-4d40-8ea4-4624b6975d2c" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:16.413" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9124" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="1c0a44c0-2b0a-4830-87c7-1500cff8d6f4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:17:50.997" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="USB to Ethernet adapter supporting multiple virtual LANs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2426" RevisionGUID="8c55df2f-83f9-446a-9411-af4d91342572" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:34:35.997" UserId="2171" Text="So the most common copper twisted pair cable is **4-pair** cable. **Four** pairs are used for **1 Gbps** connection speed, while **100 Mbps** connection uses only **two pairs** of four. So you can use single cable for either **single 1Gbps** or **two different 100 Mbps** connections. But it is decision you should make when you building your network for first time, since it will take some considerable time to rewire sockets on both ends if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which makes me ask: there must be some bright fellas who noticed possible benefits of being able to plug extra jack when needed (while sacrificing speed, of course)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So is there RJ-45 socket, which you can switch between Single and Dual simply by replacing its front or pressing button?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9126" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2426" RevisionGUID="8c55df2f-83f9-446a-9411-af4d91342572" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:34:35.997" UserId="2171" Text="Is there RJ-45 sockets with either switch between Single/Dual socket mode, or with Single/Dual interchangable front facet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9127" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2426" RevisionGUID="8c55df2f-83f9-446a-9411-af4d91342572" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:34:35.997" UserId="2171" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2427" RevisionGUID="59c9b7ec-9eff-47e0-9161-e37b62516e43" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:41:50.040" UserId="971" Text="You should not go with a card with more than 200W TDP as you have only a 550W power supply. It might work, it might not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;600 EUR is way too high of a budget for just a new graphics card. If you want an equivalent graphics card to the 6850, you could go for a GTX 960. It's faster than the 6850 in fact, and consumes similar amount of power(120W for the 960, 127 for the 6850).&#xD;&#xA;Ultra-high end cards like the 980 and 980Ti will be overkill for you, since your PC is old, and they're pretty fast, over 4 times as fast(or even faster) for the 980Ti. The 980Ti also consumes a lot of power, 250W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to go for a bit of futureproofing, go with a 970 or an upcoming Pascal card. The 970 is an awesome card at $330 with a power consumption of 145W. Pascal cards are new ones coming with an architecture change, meaning they'll be significantly faster for the same amount of money. But you'll have to wait two months for them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9130" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="1a4452cc-2362-4cba-8f26-954b9f0b67b1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T15:51:14.600" UserId="2172" Text="Sounds easy, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOPE!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In an attempt to do away with this dreaded message:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![USB low power notice from Mac OS][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a USB hub for my Macbook Pro that meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Externally powered on *all* ports (the hub has its own power jack)&#xD;&#xA; * USB3 support at full speed&#xD;&#xA; * More than 4 ports&#xD;&#xA; * Good reviews (&gt;= 4 stars)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am specifically *not* looking for, and am not interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * &quot;Charging&quot; hubs meaning:&#xD;&#xA;  * Hubs that only supply power on a subset of the available ports, &#xD;&#xA;  * Or hubs that only supply power without connection to the PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * &quot;House brand&quot; hubs such as AmazonBasics, Gigatech, etc. Too many bad experiences there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is no object.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HmyFr.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9131" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="1a4452cc-2362-4cba-8f26-954b9f0b67b1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T15:51:14.600" UserId="2172" Text="Powered USB3 hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9132" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="1a4452cc-2362-4cba-8f26-954b9f0b67b1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T15:51:14.600" UserId="2172" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9134" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2426" RevisionGUID="a0d1b2a7-300d-4cca-b995-8adceb90c4a4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:46:29.417" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Are there RJ-45 sockets with either switch between Single/Dual socket mode, or with Single/Dual interchangable front facet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="ab735cc3-48ae-4223-87a1-93c07f1d14da" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:47:03.547" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I am in the market for a colour laser multifunction printer.  I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet networking (RJ-45) &#xD;&#xA; - Duplex printing and scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Document feeder for scanning &#xD;&#xA; - Scanning and printing should be able to be initiated over network. &#xD;&#xA; - Good Linux compatibility&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of budget I would be looking ideally at less than £300.  I would consider a recommendation for a unit that would be a good fit that is available secondhand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="1c5fd181-dd6a-447c-be35-cb160bfc90d2" CreationDate="2016-03-31T18:45:26.967" UserId="2077" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard preferred but not mandatory &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottlenecked by memory or topology of the mother board. The motherboard may not be easily available so can also suggest whom to contact to get one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9138" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2421" RevisionGUID="3bb5e862-403d-4efe-9721-ec234693abef" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:05:30.060" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9139" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="f34feeb4-e327-4991-9d5c-403a677e9d4f" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:06:33.490" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2430" RevisionGUID="1f72b2ab-4132-442f-b9b7-89c67d12fd77" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:49:07.183" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2431" RevisionGUID="66010d86-c832-4010-a08b-3ce593943356" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:49:07.183" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the electrophoretic display feature of a device (not necessarily in an e-reader). Do not use this tag if you use the [e-reader] tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9144" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2432" RevisionGUID="ac20019a-9e8d-4216-a7c3-737193f72592" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:52:14.250" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9145" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2433" RevisionGUID="310b2efa-c0f2-49c4-8728-ae4e2093dea2" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:52:14.250" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that create a connection from one type of interface to another. This may be a small inline component or a larger piece of hardware. Consider also using a specific tag such as [hdmi]." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2434" RevisionGUID="37886c48-ab3b-4106-a32b-eb459d74c52e" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:57:20.190" UserId="2081" Text="If a good USB Hub with more than 4 ports is what you are looking for then you should check out Anker USB Hubs like this one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.anker.com/products/A7513141&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a 7 port Aluminum hub, USB 3.0, with a 5V 3.0A power adapter.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for reviews....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Their site:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**From Amazon:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They make hubs that go from 4 ports to 14 ports so there is a lot of choice.  **What what I really like about their products is that they stand behind them.**  I had an issue with a 2 port hub over a year after I bought it and they refunded my full purchase price.   Their customer service has been fantastic that I can recommend them and their products without hesitation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1s2kh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f2a2l.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2435" RevisionGUID="f23d8bc5-9b70-4f6a-87b2-e228dd45b1f1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:50:59.433" UserId="2081" Text="**A device like this does not exist.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The moment you split the pairs in rewiring the connections at both ends, it can no longer be considered CAT5/CAT5e/CAT6 installation because using the green and brown pairs on pins that are spec'd for the blue and orange pairs creates confusion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also mentioned that there would be considerable cost rewiring and that is correct.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the question to ask when thinking about splitting out pairs is....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What would be the benefit gained by splitting out pairs to create two separate connections that another switch at the end point or VLANS would not solve?*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2435" RevisionGUID="1e6c5509-8100-4dee-ae61-0a5891c7a0e1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:57:14.653" UserId="2081" Comment="added 479 characters in body" Text="**A device like this does not exist.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The moment you split the pairs in rewiring the connections at both ends, it can no longer be considered CAT5/CAT5e/CAT6 installation because using the green and brown pairs on pins that are spec'd for the blue and orange pairs creates confusion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also mentioned that there would be considerable cost rewiring and that is correct.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the question to ask when thinking about splitting out pairs is....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What would be the benefit gained by splitting out pairs to create two separate connections that another switch at the end point or VLANS would not solve?*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer is there is nothing to be gained by splitting the pairs to create two separate connections because the cost of a small 5 port switch is $30-40 USD which is less than half the cost of the hourly labor to rewire the connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, most Ethernet adapters found on client devices (USB adapters, motherboards, laptops, VoIP phones) and low end &quot;business class&quot; switches will support  VLAN tagging so there is no technical benefit to splitting out the pairs.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2439" RevisionGUID="c0ee7380-aada-4fc7-9f74-a5f48df3b970" CreationDate="2016-04-01T18:12:34.207" UserId="2175" Text="The time has come for me to upgrade from my nVidia GTS250 graphics card to a newer and better one. I'd like to go for the GTX 960 or 970 (4gb) series since I want to keep the card for the next 3-5 years. The rig I'm using now is old (bought 2010) and has the Asus P755H-V motherboard which supports PCIex16 2.0. The GTX cards are for PCIe 3.0 slots but I've read that they are also backwards compatible. Is it a big performance hit? Also is it compatible with the rest of the components?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus P7H55-V&#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 750 @ 2.66&#xD;&#xA;650W PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I compared the power consumption of the GTX970 against my GTS250 and they are at about 150W so there should be no problem there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also planning on upgrading the rest of the components in the future but right now I can't upgrade the mobo because I'll have to upgrade the CPU too (due to socket restrictions) and I don't want to fork an extra 300$ right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a good buy? Is there anything I should be aware of?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2439" RevisionGUID="c0ee7380-aada-4fc7-9f74-a5f48df3b970" CreationDate="2016-04-01T18:12:34.207" UserId="2175" Text="Old motherboard with new graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2439" RevisionGUID="c0ee7380-aada-4fc7-9f74-a5f48df3b970" CreationDate="2016-04-01T18:12:34.207" UserId="2175" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="3ce137e1-db4a-41cf-9d34-bdb9d75786cb" CreationDate="2016-04-01T20:30:13.337" UserId="2176" Text="I recently got the new Dell XPS 13 9350. This model features the new USB type C, it has no other native port for connecting a display (HDMI, mini displayport, etc..).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done my research and there are some adapters available, but the ones I have found are either ridiculously expensive, or have horrible reviews. Several on Amazon from companies I've never even heard of with reviews from people that were given the products for free, which I frankly don't trust at all...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody had any luck with a good adapter for USB type C laptops? I am primarily wanting it to connect to an external NEC 24 inch monitor. It has Display Port and HDMI connections available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found a few like [this][1] that have multiple connections in 1 device, which seems like it would be really convenient. Dell also makes their [own][2] that even includes Ethernet, but it's $75!!! Some reviews I read talk about BIOS issues that may keep these from working at all (scary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this to be expected since USB type C is still fairly new? I feel like there has to be a cheaper and better solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-Macbook-Chromebook-Devices/dp/B01BSJVY7Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41niyzYEf5L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0ZNV3YPAWWC400HZ0NZQ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;s=&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=470-ABQN&amp;ST=pla&amp;dgc=ST&amp;cid=297700&amp;lid=5692341&amp;acd=123098073120560&amp;ven1=470-ABQN:51713436948:901pdb6671:c&amp;ven2=:&amp;ven3=812703242058028637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9165" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="3ce137e1-db4a-41cf-9d34-bdb9d75786cb" CreationDate="2016-04-01T20:30:13.337" UserId="2176" Text="USB type c adapters?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9166" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="3ce137e1-db4a-41cf-9d34-bdb9d75786cb" CreationDate="2016-04-01T20:30:13.337" UserId="2176" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2441" RevisionGUID="961526e5-fc65-47fc-a863-92b01fb04b62" CreationDate="2016-04-02T09:17:52.580" UserId="2178" Text="I have no real knowledge about hardware. My ssd hase failed now and i need to look for another one and preferable a big one (total 250-500 gb). And what would be the price range for it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what i have now: (it's stacked in raid so have 2 of them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Sqgex.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9173" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2441" RevisionGUID="961526e5-fc65-47fc-a863-92b01fb04b62" CreationDate="2016-04-02T09:17:52.580" UserId="2178" Text="SSD Failing what do i need to look for and what are my options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9174" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2441" RevisionGUID="961526e5-fc65-47fc-a863-92b01fb04b62" CreationDate="2016-04-02T09:17:52.580" UserId="2178" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9175" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2442" RevisionGUID="48427d7b-c6ae-46a1-9c08-f34cad168c97" CreationDate="2016-04-02T10:56:14.383" UserId="2081" Text="What you have there is called [mSATA][1].  These are available from every SSD manufacturer but I am very partial to both Samsung and Crucial as I have used many of their products in the past without issue.  I have provided links in order of preference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Samsung 850 EVO 500GB][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [Crucial MX200 500GB mSATA][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are priced right around the same price point and both have excellent warranties. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Will it work in your computer?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware wise?  Yes.  SATA can address up to 8 EB (Exabytes)  or 8 million TB.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Will you OS read it?**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you are using Windows or Linux and not something custom, then NTFS and EXT2/3/4 will address much more than 8EB.  You should be good there as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/64801/msata&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-mSATA-2-Inch-MZ-M5E500BW/dp/B00TGIVVKU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459593716&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=msata&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX200-500GB-mSATA-Internal/dp/B00RQA6GF0/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459593716&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=msata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9176" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2443" RevisionGUID="caa12d44-6c03-4d0e-b890-19f951c002ea" CreationDate="2016-04-02T11:23:26.697" UserId="2081" Text="One of my go-to brands for cables and adapters is Cable Matters and they make a USB-C to HDMI adapter that has some really strong reviews:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cable Matters USB 3.1 Type C to HDMI Adapter in Black][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Adapter/dp/B00X4S5C7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459595793&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb-c%20to%20hdmi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9177" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2443" RevisionGUID="96d23808-c7d2-4098-b70e-d84255b2399b" CreationDate="2016-04-02T11:41:01.000" UserId="2081" Comment="added 354 characters in body" Text="One of my go-to brands for cables and adapters is Cable Matters and they make a USB-C to HDMI adapter that has some really strong reviews:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cable Matters USB 3.1 Type C to HDMI Adapter in Black][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's best to stay away from &quot;house brands&quot; and brands you have never heard of.  A Google engineer has been testing various USBC cables and has found many which can fry your gear.  Subsequently, [Amazon has banned cheap USB cables.][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Adapter/dp/B00X4S5C7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459595793&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb-c%20to%20hdmi&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/225719-amazon-bans-cheap-usb-c-cables-in-wake-of-google-engineers-crusade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2444" RevisionGUID="d5062af5-ab74-465b-96af-a43aa4b6248d" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:28:21.670" UserId="1873" Text="My friend did a very similar thing, but with PCIe 2 put into PCIe 1 slot. The only thing you will see is that the card won't perform as it should - PCIe 2 is almost 40% slower than PCIe 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said I believe the wait for next generation won't be to the end of the year - for nVidia Pascal [it looks like it will be unveiled this month][1] and for Radeon Rx400 [Wikipedia says][2] around this summer. All in all I believe the wait for new GPUs to hit the market in quanitites is at most half a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, that 10x claim for Pascals vs Maxwell is only in specific usages (such as neural networks), but it still will be way faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-pascal-gtx-1080-8gb-1070-launching-summer-debut-april-gtc-2016/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_Rx_400_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="2bcbb578-722c-4829-8576-e6289ae5f6ea" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:32:43.693" UserId="2179" Text="So... I am buying a new laptop and I could use some recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What i am looking for:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard and trackpad (this is very important for me)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 4-core i7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - any graphic card which is better than the usual Intel HD Graphics XXXX (maybe something in the range of Radeon R7 M370)&#xD;&#xA; - under or just over 1000usd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="2bcbb578-722c-4829-8576-e6289ae5f6ea" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:32:43.693" UserId="2179" Text="New laptop recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="2bcbb578-722c-4829-8576-e6289ae5f6ea" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:32:43.693" UserId="2179" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9182" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="493d058a-0103-4dae-91b6-b97b4119dc05" CreationDate="2016-04-02T13:55:37.203" UserId="1452" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium settings (fully D3D11 compatible unlike my current machine) and costs about 600$. The specs should be like something along the lines of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 3GHz Quad Core           &#xD;&#xA;GPU: 1GHz     &#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 2GB         &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB           &#xD;&#xA;DISK: 500GB+              &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. I found this excellent 600$ build online but the wattage was far too high (400W-ish). Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2446" RevisionGUID="5fecc248-2d79-43c1-9467-16ef583f143d" CreationDate="2016-04-02T14:07:09.337" UserId="1452" Text="It has been a while since I asked this question and requested whether I could answer it myself but [here's][1] a link to what I've come up with which matches the specs, budget and power consumption I was looking for. It's a pcpartpicker part list (please notify me if you can't access it for some reason). While I crossed the original budget marginally ($80), I believe this would be a good choice for anyone looking for a 256W machine capable of running the latest games. It's a Skylake build featuring a GTX 950, 1 TB of HDD memory and 16 GB of DDR4 RAM. I will be using this for (graphics) programming, gaming and probably quite a bit more of the latter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any feedback would be appreciated since I'm planning on building it and I'm not really confident about my motherboard and case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/thomw2o0o/saved/YvNKHx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9184" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1767" RevisionGUID="9a64ed24-e846-4cc6-9c7c-956d71490512" CreationDate="2016-04-02T14:51:36.420" UserId="1452" Comment="deleted 43 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop which runs recent games at medium to high settings and costs about 600$. The specs should be like something along the lines of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 3GHz Quad Core           &#xD;&#xA;GPU: 1GHz     &#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 2GB         &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB           &#xD;&#xA;DISK: 500GB+              &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, since I don't want to spend too much money on power, I would like it to be quite efficient, preferably with a wattage lower than 250/300W if this is possible, given my other requirements. I found this excellent 600$ build online but the wattage was far too high (400W-ish). Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="bc1a59e8-d6cb-484c-bff1-f54b376b45b2" CreationDate="2016-04-02T17:23:43.377" UserId="2077" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon or i7 CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard preferred but not mandatory &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottlenecked by memory or topology of the mother board. The motherboard may not be easily available so can also suggest whom to contact to get one. Supermicro seems to offer some solutions ." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9187" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="60e7201d-c08f-48ea-88db-5c7066e95ff3" CreationDate="2016-04-02T17:35:21.373" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9188" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2441" RevisionGUID="ef87f146-11b4-413b-8d8f-7fe4c9bdcdba" CreationDate="2016-04-02T17:36:29.427" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2444" RevisionGUID="f52e789d-55e7-450d-a74a-495f259d922f" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:00:37.857" UserId="1873" Comment="Added extra information due to misunderstanding." Text="My friend did a very similar thing, but with PCIe 2 put into PCIe 1 slot. The only thing you will see is that the card won't perform as it should - PCIe 2 is almost 40% slower than PCIe 3. As @Mark stated in the comments this difference is between PCI express verions itself, not for the performance of a specific GPU and also depends on the workload.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said I believe the wait for next generation won't be to the end of the year - for nVidia Pascal [it looks like it will be unveiled this month][1] and for Radeon Rx400 [Wikipedia says][2] around this summer. All in all I believe the wait for new GPUs to hit the market in quanitites is at most half a year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, that 10x claim for Pascals vs Maxwell is only in specific usages (such as neural networks), but it still will be way faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-pascal-gtx-1080-8gb-1070-launching-summer-debut-april-gtc-2016/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_Rx_400_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="cce9d5d2-63d8-43bc-bfbe-62f87eb9d7cf" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:22:16.260" UserId="2179" Comment="Added some additional information." Text="So... I am buying a new laptop and I could use some recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What i am looking for:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard and trackpad (this is very important for me)&#xD;&#xA; - at least 4-core i7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - any graphic card which is better than the usual Intel HD Graphics XXXX (maybe something in the range of Radeon R7 M370)&#xD;&#xA; - not bigger than 15 inch&#xD;&#xA; - under or just over 1000usd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I mean by good keyboard:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a MacBook user so I am used to the feel of their keyboard and super responsive multitouch trackpad. I've been told that Lenovo laptops also have some of the best keyboards on the market. Therefore I am looking somewhere in this direction. (also, backlight would be great)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I have found so far:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo ThinkPad E560 (would be ideal if it had 4-core i7 processor)&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo IdeaPad Y700 (good, but a liitle expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any other suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9191" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2445" RevisionGUID="ae153b8e-ebef-4e35-88f1-538f8485061e" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:46:09.963" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="4c899234-c7aa-4def-9f7a-48562f446da1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T06:35:18.153" UserId="1410" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I bought [the cheapest that Amazon has][1] and found that the battery only lasted a few hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to charge once a week, might accept once per day, but no less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No fancy features necessary (maybe notification of incoming calls &amp; SMS), as I want it primarily for telling the time, but also to program my own apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is tight, can anyone recommend a cheap Android watch with decent battery life, which they have personally used for a while (maybe even programmed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Bluetooth-select-Android-Samsung-models/dp/B00KARD0D2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9201" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2450" RevisionGUID="446eaf8e-c9b6-4bdf-b2ca-88e1eb190b34" CreationDate="2016-04-03T13:17:00.183" UserId="2090" Text="The Lenovo Y50 meets all of the criteria you mentioned.  It has a low profile Island style backlit keyboard, a large multi touch trackpad, comes available with quad core i7 CPUs and gaming capable Nvidia GTX graphics cards.  They start at around 800USD for those options, but can be found a little cheaper as they are recently a discontinued model.  They can also be found with touch screens or UHD displays.  However, the side is 15.6''. This is an industry standard, to go smaller would be impractical but possible if it is a necessity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other suggestion with be a MSI gaming laptop.  The GE and GS series come in 15.6'' and have high quality components in all models, suitable for intensive usage.  The keyboard that you would want is the SteelSeries, it is also a low profile and very responsive keyboard, available with multi color backlighting if you desire.  These can be had for right around 1000 USD depending again on configuration.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question will probably be closed momentarily as being too broad so I hope you find this useful.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2451" RevisionGUID="0a0d9885-ccff-4f18-b99e-2b06325e0ca0" CreationDate="2016-04-03T14:26:29.700" UserId="543" Text="I would recommend the Lenovo IdeaPad Y700 to you as it is an amazing laptop for the price. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834321438 Newegg sell it for around $1000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU:  i7 6700HQ.&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16 GB DDR4.&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M.&#xD;&#xA; - STORAGE: 1 TB HDD + 128 GB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the latest Skylake processor, DDR4 RAM, a decent GPU (roughly equivalent to the desktop 750Ti) and an SSD. It also has a backlit keyboard and a 15.6&quot; Full HD display." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9217" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2291" RevisionGUID="d964b66d-799d-4b5d-8d54-7c7108ca4ea6" CreationDate="2016-04-03T20:39:58.833" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="f3c3ca3c-9dc6-4086-b965-8f6b7af6a4d7" CreationDate="2016-04-04T01:05:49.140" UserId="2187" Text="I want to build a fast computer but I have little space available to set it in. I'm not going to use a external GPU (the HD 530 or better is fast enough for my purposes). I intend to use Core i5-6400 or faster micro-processor. I accept also other socket processors (even AMD), as long as they have the same or higher performance. The mini-ITX motherboards look good for me, but the cases seems to be disproportionately bigger that the motherboard, mainly because of the size of the PSU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="f3c3ca3c-9dc6-4086-b965-8f6b7af6a4d7" CreationDate="2016-04-04T01:05:49.140" UserId="2187" Text="Smallest system with socket LGA 1151" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="f3c3ca3c-9dc6-4086-b965-8f6b7af6a4d7" CreationDate="2016-04-04T01:05:49.140" UserId="2187" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9223" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="f898c60e-36a3-4d10-854e-95454cf95ce5" CreationDate="2016-04-04T03:48:09.177" UserId="155" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2458" RevisionGUID="eefe32c0-d288-4183-8169-46fa1a0bf1b6" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:46:02.527" UserId="2086" Text="I finally bought 2 of them&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.projectorcentral.com/parts_compare.cfm?pid_1=7456&amp;pid_2=7436&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well to be exact, I bought one. And then realize that the second one is better for me. So I exchange the first one with the second one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer H6510BD http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, my room has a width of 3.2 m and I want a REALLY BIG screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I search for something similar but smaller throw radius.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I exchange that with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BenQ W1080ST http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1080ST.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More expensive. But I think I will be able to get a big 4 m wide TV I have always wanted to work peacefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regular TV would have cost $5k and stuff. This projector only costs $1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, the second one is more expensive. So it depends on where you want to put things. If you want to put it on a big room where you can afford some distance between the projector and the TV, then the first one is the way to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9234" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2458" RevisionGUID="02dd1396-8516-475c-bde4-3d9011aa366f" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:18:12.137" UserId="2086" Comment="added 246 characters in body" Text="I finally bought 2 of them&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.projectorcentral.com/parts_compare.cfm?pid_1=7456&amp;pid_2=7436&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well to be exact, I bought one. And then realize that the second one is better for me. So I exchange the first one with the second one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer H6510BD http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, my room has a width of 3.2 m and I want a REALLY BIG screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I search for something similar but smaller throw radius.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I exchange that with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BenQ W1080ST http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1080ST.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More expensive. But I think I will be able to get a big 4 m wide TV I have always wanted to work peacefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regular TV would have cost $5k and stuff. This projector only costs $1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, the second one is more expensive. So it depends on where you want to put things. If you want to put it on a big room where you can afford some distance between the projector and the TV, then the first one is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I should have answered with something I recommend rather than actually bought. However, I finally bought... can be interpreted as I recommend .... I mean why would I buy something I don't think is good? Not sure how the mod would think." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9239" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="06487a8d-b202-44dc-9817-11f9c1512ddb" CreationDate="2016-04-04T18:06:19.350" UserId="2187" Comment="Improved the question" Text="I want to build a fast computer but I have little space available to set it in. I don't really need to use a external GPU since I have little demand for graphics power, but I need a fast microprocessor since I will use it for software development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case cannot be wider and deeper than 12 cm and no taller than 6 cm. If this proves impossible to find, I can have a little bigger (at most twice on each dimension).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any microprocessor that is not soldered to the motherboard with performance similar or higher of an Intel Core i5-6400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really have any requirement for the GPU as long as it can drive my Dell 2007fpb with VGA or DVI connecting at the resolution of 1600x1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GiB or bigger. Can be any standard like DDR3 or DDR4, DIMM or SO-DIMM (not soldered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Hard Drive:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;240 GB or bigger SSD. Must be SATA (not soldered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Under $800.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Previous research:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[GIGABYTE GB-BXi5-4570R][1] is a good candidate but the processor is soldered to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856164011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9240" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="06487a8d-b202-44dc-9817-11f9c1512ddb" CreationDate="2016-04-04T18:06:19.350" UserId="2187" Comment="Improved the question" Text="Small form factor PC with socket micro-processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2460" RevisionGUID="087feea1-5a14-4343-8b99-d15e4be4b7cf" CreationDate="2016-04-04T18:08:07.583" UserId="543" Text="I am will be overclocking my Intel i7 6700K to 4.6 GHz and I am looking for a solid motherboard to go with it. Currently, I am considering the Asus Maximus VIII Hero (https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/) as I know that the previous motherboard (Asus Maximus VII Hero) was very good and I have had a good experience with Asus so far. Could anyone recommend any other motherboards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Must:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - M.2 support.&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.1 support.&#xD;&#xA; - ATX form factor.&#xD;&#xA; - Under £200." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9242" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2460" RevisionGUID="087feea1-5a14-4343-8b99-d15e4be4b7cf" CreationDate="2016-04-04T18:08:07.583" UserId="543" Text="Motherboard For Overclocking An i7 6700K?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9243" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2460" RevisionGUID="087feea1-5a14-4343-8b99-d15e4be4b7cf" CreationDate="2016-04-04T18:08:07.583" UserId="543" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9244" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="bcea5b65-a459-449b-8af8-a999c061fcee" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:29:26.433" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected punctuation." Text="I recently got the new Dell XPS 13 9350. This model features the new USB Type-C; it has no other native port for connecting a display (HDMI, mini DisplayPort, etc..).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done my research and there are some adapters available, but the ones I have found are either ridiculously expensive, or have horrible reviews. Several on Amazon from companies I've never even heard of with reviews from people that were given the products for free, which I frankly don't trust at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anybody had any luck with a good adapter for USB Type-C laptops? I am primarily wanting it to connect to an external NEC 24 inch monitor. It has Display Port and HDMI connections available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found a few like [this][1] that have multiple connections in one device, which seems like it would be really convenient. Dell also makes their [own][2] that even includes Ethernet, but it's $75! Some reviews I read talk about BIOS issues that may keep these from working at all (scary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this to be expected since USB Type-C is still fairly new? I feel like there has to be a cheaper and better solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-Macbook-Chromebook-Devices/dp/B01BSJVY7Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41niyzYEf5L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0ZNV3YPAWWC400HZ0NZQ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;s=&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=470-ABQN&amp;ST=pla&amp;dgc=ST&amp;cid=297700&amp;lid=5692341&amp;acd=123098073120560&amp;ven1=470-ABQN:51713436948:901pdb6671:c&amp;ven2=:&amp;ven3=812703242058028637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9245" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="bcea5b65-a459-449b-8af8-a999c061fcee" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:29:26.433" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected punctuation." Text="USB Type-C adapters?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9246" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2440" RevisionGUID="bcea5b65-a459-449b-8af8-a999c061fcee" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:29:26.433" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, 2176 edit id of 427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9247" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2451" RevisionGUID="a747163f-332c-4513-8de8-0478a32249ac" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:41:06.850" UserId="1885" Comment="Embedded link." Text="I would recommend the Lenovo IdeaPad Y700 to you as it is an amazing laptop for the price; [Newegg sells it][1] for around $1,000. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU:  i7 6700HQ.&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16 GB DDR4.&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M.&#xD;&#xA; - STORAGE: 1 TB HDD + 128 GB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the latest Skylake processor, DDR4 RAM, a decent GPU (roughly equivalent to the desktop 750Ti) and an SSD. It also has a backlit keyboard and a 15.6&quot; Full HD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834321438" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9248" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2451" RevisionGUID="a747163f-332c-4513-8de8-0478a32249ac" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:41:06.850" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, 543 edit id of 425" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9249" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="4816bc75-fd45-4c76-aaa8-abe84b1f3ae1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:06:50.117" UserId="2187" Comment="Network" Text="I want to build a fast computer but I have little space available to set it in. I don't really need to use a external GPU since I have little demand for graphics power, but I need a fast microprocessor since I will use it for software development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case cannot be wider and deeper than 12 cm and no taller than 6 cm. If this proves impossible to find, I can have a little bigger (at most twice on each dimension).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any microprocessor that is not soldered to the motherboard with performance similar or higher of an Intel Core i5-6400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really have any requirement for the GPU as long as it can drive my Dell 2007fpb with VGA or DVI connecting at the resolution of 1600x1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GiB or bigger. Can be any standard like DDR3 or DDR4, DIMM or SO-DIMM (not soldered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Hard Drive:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;240 GB or bigger SSD. Must be SATA (not soldered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Network:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless 802.11ac. Not a must have, since I can always buy a USB adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Under $800.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Previous research:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[GIGABYTE GB-BXi5-4570R][1] is a good candidate but the processor is soldered to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856164011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1601" RevisionGUID="b1baeb1c-dda3-49e2-be30-3ad66d9a6976" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:20.193" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected link, cleaned up list." Text="According to [Intel ARK on the Intel® Core™ i7-5930K Processor][1]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type): 64 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Memory Types: DDR4 1333/1600/2133&#xD;&#xA; - Max # of Memory Channels: 4&#xD;&#xA; - Max Memory Bandwidth: 68GB/s &#xD;&#xA; - ECC Memory Supported: No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I won't be able to use 128 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9251" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1601" RevisionGUID="b1baeb1c-dda3-49e2-be30-3ad66d9a6976" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:20.193" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, 54 edit id of 423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9252" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="bf70cbd4-1e59-47ff-ba32-8686a9b5c9a1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:25.520" UserId="1885" Comment="Embed link." Text="I want to buy an LED projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support HDMI input. 1920x1080. I want to play video games at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must support large screen size with 120 inch a minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound is optional because I will have my own speaker. 3D is very optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use it to watch movie, play games, and yes work. I like to work at big TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range is between 500-2000 USD. I know Acer [H6510BD] is good enough and meet the spec. I want to know if there is anything even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the thing I consider is [Acer H6510BD 3D Home Theater Projector][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay extra for true 3D (I can play diablo with glasses). I want passive 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D is unnecessary. I prefer higher res thank 3D. I definitely do not want active 3D glasses. It seems that most 3D glasses for projectors are passive am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want very long lamp life. I am going to use this projector for most of my waking hour. I work and play and watch movie at the same screen. Yap the screen will run windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently comparing these projectors. None of them I like most because I really don't need that 3D feature. But hei, I might as well enjoy it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Benq-mw526][2] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Optoma GT7][3] doesn't seem to have required resolution but show up in amazon if I search for 1920*1080&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Acer-H6510BD][4] my most preferred one&#xD;&#xA; 4. [BenQ MH680][5]  second fav. what's the difference? more noisy?&#xD;&#xA; 5. [ViewSonic PJD7822][6]&#xD;&#xA; 6. [ViewSonic PJD7820HD][7]&#xD;&#xA; 7. [Mitsubishi HC3800][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-MW526-Lumens-Ready-Projector/dp/B00MBE21DC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT750E-3D-Gaming-Projector-Version/dp/B005G2HR6W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-MH680.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7822HDL-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM4A52/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00BBM0664/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-HC3800-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B002PIPPUK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458735257&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011%2Cp_n_feature_ten_browse-bin%3A11601827011%7C11601826011%2Cp_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A9408966011%7C9408967011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9253" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="bf70cbd4-1e59-47ff-ba32-8686a9b5c9a1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:25.520" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, 54 edit id of 426" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="6b0be3e7-5dc4-4cb8-971e-fd987e7b7584" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:37.897" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected grammar, embedded links, removed self-answer text from question (it's already in the self-answer)." Text="I have a question about a motherboard and RAM compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI X99A XPOWER AC LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 128GB (8 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400) Desktop Memory Model CMD128GX4M8B2800C14][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find this RAM in the supported list on MSI's website. I have a feeling that the page is not updated as it doesn't even list any 16 GB modules. Similarly, Corsair's website lists only two motherboards as supported, ASUS X99 Deluxe and Rampage V Extreme. pcpartpicker.com does not list this RAM when this board and Intel i7-5960 Haswell-E are selected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to double check before investing almost $1,700 on these two components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130836&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233814" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9255" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="6b0be3e7-5dc4-4cb8-971e-fd987e7b7584" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:37.897" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected grammar, embedded links, removed self-answer text from question (it's already in the self-answer)." Text="X99 2011-v3 Motherboard and 128 GB DDR4 RAM Compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9256" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1416" RevisionGUID="6b0be3e7-5dc4-4cb8-971e-fd987e7b7584" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:22:37.897" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, 54 edit id of 424" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9258" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2461" RevisionGUID="11c9ad55-4e78-4f6f-bec9-7fe359902ec0" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:06:36.217" UserId="2193" Text="I'm looking into getting a used laptop on a budget, would really appreciate your suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are mostly ordinary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Web surfing on modern browsers &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Office suite&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-AV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Infrequent Photoshop use along with image/video conversion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Using Virtualization software vmware workstation for testing certain apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to exchange the default hdd with a ssd (256 gb).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming the default intel hd 3000/4000 or comparable gpu would be enough for smooth hd viewing and rare image editing and low/med end gaming?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1	$260&#xD;&#xA;SONY VAIO PCG 81115L i7 1ST GEN Q740 1.73 GhZ 4GB NVIDIA 425M 	[2010?]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2	$316&#xD;&#xA;SONY VAIO E-SERIES SVE151D11L i5 3RD GEN 2.50GhZ 3210M 6 GB 500GB 2012 INTEL 4000 GfX [2012]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3	$220&#xD;&#xA;TOSHIBA SATELLITE L775D S7305 AMD A6 3400M 1.40GhZ RAD HD 6520 GfX	[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4	$383&#xD;&#xA;HP PAVILION DV6 6C53CL i7 2670QM 2.20GhZ 2ND GEN 8GB INTEL 3000 GfX	[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5	$182&#xD;&#xA;HP PROBOOK 4520 i5 1ST GEN 2.67GhZ 3 GB ATI HD 6300M GfX		[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6	$270&#xD;&#xA;HP 14&quot; ELITE BOOK 8470P i5 3RD GEN 2.50 GZ				[2012]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far i have liked the 2 sony viao laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also confused about the generations, will an i5 3RD GEN 2.50GhZ 3210M be better/faster than i7 1ST GEN Q740 1.73 GhZ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please do note i will favor a longer battery life in exchange of 10% or less realworld cpu performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will also appreciate if someone points out some of the potential pitfalls in buying a used laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What non-obvious things i must check to ensure it's condition is good? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9259" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2461" RevisionGUID="11c9ad55-4e78-4f6f-bec9-7fe359902ec0" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:06:36.217" UserId="2193" Text="Which one of these used laptops should i get?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9260" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2461" RevisionGUID="11c9ad55-4e78-4f6f-bec9-7fe359902ec0" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:06:36.217" UserId="2193" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2462" RevisionGUID="b423cc79-8ac6-479b-a8e7-531e8017fb8a" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:12:05.230" UserId="2194" Text="I plan on making a headless FTP server with OwnCloud on a RasPi or a low end used CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need this to be accessible over a 2.5km radius. Maybe I have to use a system of multiple routers to achieve this. I am not sure what kind of hardware is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first I thought some kind of high power WiMax router but I don't what to get and whatever I do see with WiMax in the title turns out to be deadly expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not averse to building a Project Loon type craft work to empower the area.&#xD;&#xA;As a student, my objective is to empower this area that lacks proper internet connectivity with knowledge material such as an offline version of Wikipedia.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a router hardware recommendation. Looking for the cheapest solution with highest performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9262" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2462" RevisionGUID="b423cc79-8ac6-479b-a8e7-531e8017fb8a" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:12:05.230" UserId="2194" Text="Cheap Wimax Router or High power WiFi system to help impoverished area" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9263" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2462" RevisionGUID="b423cc79-8ac6-479b-a8e7-531e8017fb8a" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:12:05.230" UserId="2194" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2450" RevisionGUID="43526ce4-de68-4ae1-a1c6-fbbf77179215" CreationDate="2016-04-05T06:02:30.640" UserId="2090" Comment="edited body" Text="The Lenovo Y50 meets all of the criteria you mentioned.  It has a low profile Island style backlit keyboard, a large multi touch trackpad, comes available with quad core i7 CPUs and gaming capable Nvidia GTX graphics cards.  They start at around 800USD for those options, but can be found a little cheaper as they are recently a discontinued model.  They can also be found with touch screens or UHD displays.  However, the size is 15.6''. This is an industry standard, to go smaller would be impractical but possible if it is a necessity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other suggestion with be a MSI gaming laptop.  The GE and GS series come in 15.6'' and have high quality components in all models, suitable for intensive usage.  The keyboard that you would want is the SteelSeries, it is also a low profile and very responsive keyboard, available with multi color backlighting if you desire.  These can be had for right around 1000 USD depending again on configuration.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question will probably be closed momentarily as being too broad so I hope you find this useful.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2463" RevisionGUID="fa5c39c6-a5fe-4449-8c30-617ade72ed41" CreationDate="2016-04-05T07:12:50.987" UserId="1366" Text=" In your budget I would recommend exactly this model which you presented. But there are few other options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cheaper:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Maximus VIII Ranger][1] -&gt; [£138 on Amazon][2] - around £40 cheaper than Hero and it actually meets all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More expensive:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This are top end motherboards for overvlocking Skylake maybe it is worth to save more money and buy best possible option if you have top end CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Maximus VIII Formula][3] -&gt; [£305 on Amazon][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [MSI Z170A XPOWER Gaming Titanium Edition][5] -&gt; [£300 on Amazon][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-RANGER/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-MAXIMUS-VIII-RANGER-Motherboards/dp/B0126R35ME&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-VIII-FORMULA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-Maximus-VIII-Formula-Motherboard/dp/B01A9GK4EQ&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z170A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM-EDITION.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Z170A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM-EDITION/dp/B014PXH3CU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2450" RevisionGUID="0529cc5e-5d38-4d42-a0e0-6b39323d21cf" CreationDate="2016-04-05T13:46:51.347" UserId="60" Comment="Removed &quot;question might be closed&quot; line" Text="The Lenovo Y50 meets all of the criteria you mentioned.  It has a low profile Island style backlit keyboard, a large multi touch trackpad, comes available with quad core i7 CPUs and gaming capable Nvidia GTX graphics cards.  They start at around 800USD for those options, but can be found a little cheaper as they are recently a discontinued model.  They can also be found with touch screens or UHD displays.  However, the size is 15.6''. This is an industry standard, to go smaller would be impractical but possible if it is a necessity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other suggestion with be a MSI gaming laptop.  The GE and GS series come in 15.6'' and have high quality components in all models, suitable for intensive usage.  The keyboard that you would want is the SteelSeries, it is also a low profile and very responsive keyboard, available with multi color backlighting if you desire.  These can be had for right around 1000 USD depending again on configuration. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9278" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2454" RevisionGUID="85c009f7-1123-405e-a8e3-ccb132504505" CreationDate="2016-04-05T21:48:50.423" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="51439ea2-4d4f-4044-8f6f-4de2fb9b0080" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:07:59.553" UserId="2201" Text="I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti - I did have two but one expired. &#xD;&#xA;looking for a similar replacement to run a single TV through HDMI, the current card runs two monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to be looking at the same brand or spec? Or will it work with anything? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9280" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="51439ea2-4d4f-4044-8f6f-4de2fb9b0080" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:07:59.553" UserId="2201" Text="New Second Graphics Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9281" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="51439ea2-4d4f-4044-8f6f-4de2fb9b0080" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:07:59.553" UserId="2201" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9282" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="38e43acf-d112-4291-ab33-30f1987d1b98" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:08:33.117" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9283" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="d3372d30-1aaa-4dd2-aaa0-4bdbffa8b2fb" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:26:01.933" UserId="2201" Comment="added 342 characters in body" Text="I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti - I did have two but one expired. &#xD;&#xA;looking for a similar replacement to run a single TV through HDMI, the current card runs two monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to be looking at the same brand or spec? Or will it work with anything? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rig:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K&#xD;&#xA; - Operating System: Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional    64-bit&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: P8Z68-V LX&#xD;&#xA; - Memory:16.0GB Corsair 1600mhz    Vengeance (4x 4GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics card: 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti 1GB&#xD;&#xA; - Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio&#xD;&#xA; - Case: Xigmatek Asgard (20 x 41 x 48 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - PSU:    700W Xigmatek" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9284" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="76b98366-2c52-4bbc-82ba-89e96efee9ea" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:40:08.913" UserId="2201" Comment="added 428 characters in body" Text="I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti - I did have two but one expired. &#xD;&#xA;looking for a similar replacement to run a single TV through HDMI, the current card runs two monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to be looking at the same brand or spec? &#xD;&#xA;Or will it work with anything? &#xD;&#xA;	&#xD;&#xA;I expect it to be showing webpages most of the time. I have it set up as an over head monitor that'll I'll be using to collect reference materials.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I won't be using it for games I'd like to keep the price as low as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main concern is in order to achieve this I'll need to buy two new cards because I can't see this one for sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rig:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K&#xD;&#xA; - Operating System: Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional    64-bit&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: P8Z68-V LX&#xD;&#xA; - Memory:16.0GB Corsair 1600mhz    Vengeance (4x 4GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics card: 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti 1GB&#xD;&#xA; - Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio&#xD;&#xA; - Case: Xigmatek Asgard (20 x 41 x 48 cm)&#xD;&#xA; - PSU:    700W Xigmatek" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2471" RevisionGUID="e93a89e4-20e6-4883-a9e5-2ea9e5e8639d" CreationDate="2016-04-06T03:17:17.820" UserId="2208" Text="You have two *good* options here both being delivered by ASUS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Your suggestion, the **[Maximus VIII Hero][1]**.  &#xD;&#xA;  - 4x **DDR4** DIMMs Max **64 GB** Upto **3800mhz**&#xD;&#xA;  - 1x **M.2**&#xD;&#xA;  - 6x **Sata 6**&#xD;&#xA;  - 2x **Sata Express**&#xD;&#xA;  - Ample USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. At £40 cheaper, the **[Maximus VIII Ranger][2]**.&#xD;&#xA;  - 4x **DDR4** DIMMs Max **64 GB** Upto **3400mhz**&#xD;&#xA;  - Same  storage as the former.&#xD;&#xA;  - Ample USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It may be worth the extra £40 for you to go with the Ranger as it gives up nothing important and will leave you with money to spend elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-RANGER/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9304" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2461" RevisionGUID="fd714500-cc29-4993-846b-30a2553202a8" CreationDate="2016-04-06T03:24:43.330" UserId="2208" Comment="Formatting" Text="I'm looking into getting a used laptop on a budget, would really appreciate your suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are mostly ordinary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Web surfing on modern browsers &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Office suite&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Infrequent Photoshop use along with image/video conversion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Using Virtualization software vmware workstation for testing certain apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to exchange the default HD with an SSD (256 GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming the default intel HD 3000/4000 or comparable GPU would be enough for smooth hd viewing and rare image editing and low/med end gaming?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.	$260&#xD;&#xA;SONY VAIO PCG 81115L i7 1ST GEN Q740 1.73 GhZ 4GB NVIDIA 425M 	[2010?]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.	$316&#xD;&#xA;SONY VAIO E-SERIES SVE151D11L i5 3RD GEN 2.50GhZ 3210M 6 GB 500GB 2012 INTEL 4000 GfX [2012]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.	$220&#xD;&#xA;TOSHIBA SATELLITE L775D S7305 AMD A6 3400M 1.40GhZ RAD HD 6520 GfX	[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.	$383&#xD;&#xA;HP PAVILION DV6 6C53CL i7 2670QM 2.20GhZ 2ND GEN 8GB INTEL 3000 GfX	[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.	$182&#xD;&#xA;HP PROBOOK 4520 i5 1ST GEN 2.67GhZ 3 GB ATI HD 6300M GfX		[2011]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6.	$270&#xD;&#xA;HP 14&quot; ELITE BOOK 8470P i5 3RD GEN 2.50 GZ				[2012]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far i have liked the 2 sony viao laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also confused about the generations, will an i5 3RD GEN 2.50GhZ 3210M be better/faster than i7 1ST GEN Q740 1.73 GhZ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please do note i will favor a longer battery life in exchange of 10% or less realworld cpu performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will also appreciate if someone points out some of the potential pitfalls in buying a used laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What non-obvious things i must check to ensure it's condition is good? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9305" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2461" RevisionGUID="fd714500-cc29-4993-846b-30a2553202a8" CreationDate="2016-04-06T03:24:43.330" Comment="Proposed by 2208 approved by 155 edit id of 431" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9306" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2466" RevisionGUID="e0e23db0-38f1-4f35-80b3-b04a607a2301" CreationDate="2016-04-06T03:29:12.380" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="1996f223-a490-4172-8e0d-80a0281857fc" CreationDate="2016-04-06T08:37:05.537" UserId="2090" Text="The GTX 550Ti is a discontinued video card (and has been for a couple of years now)  You would be paying a premium on ebay for a (probably) used card if you wanted to find a matching one.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to use SLi, you need to have matching graphics cards.  Though the brand and clock speed may be different, they must have the same GPU (and both be Ti or non-Ti) as well as the same amount of video RAM.  If you are not gaming or doing graphical rendering I wonder why you would want two cards anyways?  You are able to use two (and on some models three) monitors with a single GTX 550Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a new single video card of comparable power which can also support multiple monitors, I recommend the GTX 750 which can be found for around 100 USD, or the current GTX 950 for about $140.  The GTX660Ti is capable of supporting three monitors, but can be difficult to find because it has been discontinued.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtually any video card sold in stores today will support multiple monitors (at least two) and be capable of web content and bluray playback.  Bear in mind that ATi video cards will need to use DisplayPort (or a powered adapter) in order to use three displays simultaneously.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2474" RevisionGUID="7612a278-e68f-48c4-9d9f-a999830f0be6" CreationDate="2016-04-06T09:09:14.000" UserId="2090" Text="Things to check before buying are temperatures.  If the cpu temp exceeds 50c at idle, it has probably been overheated in the past and experienced more wear than others.  Another point of concern is the laptop hinges.  If not opened slowly and from the middle, hinges wear unevenly and on many models break.  If there is looseness it is indicative of future failing.  Laptop batteries do not like frequent discharge cycles nor years of use.  When buying a used laptop, you can expect to be buying a new battery somewhere in the not too distant future.  You can check the wear level at the same time as the temperatures using HWMonitor from CPUID (freeware).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 3rd gen i5 at higher clock speeds will outperform a 1st gen i7 in single threaded performance, but in multi threaded applications the difference is less notable.  For your described usage the i5 would be preferable as it uses less power and you will not frequently be at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the models you listed, as a money saver I would choose the Llano based Toshiba.  The integrated graphics far outperform the IntelHD series (which will make web browsing and video editing smoother) and it is a more recent chip requiring less power than the older i-series (TDP 35W).  The price difference between the next models allows you to purchase a higher density battery for extended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the final notebook you posted (8470P) would have discrete graphics installed e.g. Radeon HD 7570M.  It's not specified in your question, but if it does it's the clear winner." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2475" RevisionGUID="58fbe770-b03c-41b0-9848-4df65bbfe59f" CreationDate="2016-04-06T11:13:16.843" UserId="672" Text="I am hoping to install a projector in our office space to stream to from laptops/macbooks/tablets etc. However due to the layout, we can't easily run cables from connecting devices to the projector. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any solutions to solve this issue? Wireless projectors seem to just be Miracast enabled and so will not support anything other than Windows 8.1+ and android 4.2+ devices. Are there any truly wireless projectors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a real budget but under £1000 would be nice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9314" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2475" RevisionGUID="58fbe770-b03c-41b0-9848-4df65bbfe59f" CreationDate="2016-04-06T11:13:16.843" UserId="672" Text="Wireless HD projector &gt;2000 Lumen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9315" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2475" RevisionGUID="58fbe770-b03c-41b0-9848-4df65bbfe59f" CreationDate="2016-04-06T11:13:16.843" UserId="672" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="a21ff38c-62c1-468a-bff1-26a30553961e" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:18:47.800" UserId="1885" Comment="Add links to specs." Text="The GTX 550Ti is a discontinued video card (and has been for a couple of years now)  You would be paying a premium on ebay for a (probably) used card if you wanted to find a matching one.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to use SLi, you need to have matching graphics cards.  Though the brand and clock speed may be different, they must have the same GPU (and both be Ti or non-Ti) as well as the same amount of video RAM.  If you are not gaming or doing graphical rendering I wonder why you would want two cards anyways?  You are able to use two (and on some models three) monitors with a single GTX 550Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a new single video card of comparable power which can also support multiple monitors, I recommend the [GTX 750][1] which can be found for around USD$100, or the current [GTX 950][2] for about USD$140.  The [GTX 660 Ti][3] is capable of supporting three monitors, but can be difficult to find because it has been discontinued.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtually any video card sold in stores today will support multiple monitors (at least two) and be capable of web content and bluray playback.  Bear in mind that ATi video cards will need to use DisplayPort (or a powered adapter) in order to use three displays simultaneously.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-750/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-660ti/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9325" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="a21ff38c-62c1-468a-bff1-26a30553961e" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:18:47.800" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 60, -1 edit id of 432" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9326" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="b90aa77d-df83-4384-88b5-f92224f470c3" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:18:47.800" UserId="54" Comment="Add links to specs." Text="The GTX 550Ti is a discontinued video card (and has been for a couple of years now)  You would be paying a premium on ebay for a (probably) used card if you wanted to find a matching one.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to use SLi, you need to have matching graphics cards.  Though the brand and clock speed may be different, they must have the same GPU (and both be Ti or non-Ti) as well as the same amount of video RAM.  If you are not gaming or doing graphical rendering I wonder why you would want two cards anyways?  You are able to use two (and on some models three) monitors with a single GTX 550Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a new single video card of comparable power which can also support multiple monitors, I recommend the [GTX 750][1] which can be found for around $100, or the current [GTX 950][2] for about $140. The [GTX 660 Ti][3] is capable of supporting three monitors, but can be difficult to find because it has been discontinued.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtually any video card sold in stores today will support multiple monitors (at least two) and be capable of web content and bluray playback.  Bear in mind that ATi video cards will need to use DisplayPort (or a powered adapter) in order to use three displays simultaneously.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-750/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-660ti/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9333" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="629b8973-764b-405f-926b-af6ebcbb82fc" CreationDate="2016-04-07T07:09:34.600" UserId="-1" Comment="23" />
  <row Id="9338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="c441754d-ec52-4cd4-b58c-67592dc58bca" CreationDate="2016-04-07T13:28:44.717" UserId="1885" Comment="USD$ is required to distinguish this from pricing in other countries that also use $ as the symbol, such as CAD$ and AUD$." Text="The GTX 550Ti is a discontinued video card (and has been for a couple of years now)  You would be paying a premium on ebay for a (probably) used card if you wanted to find a matching one.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to use SLi, you need to have matching graphics cards.  Though the brand and clock speed may be different, they must have the same GPU (and both be Ti or non-Ti) as well as the same amount of video RAM.  If you are not gaming or doing graphical rendering I wonder why you would want two cards anyways?  You are able to use two (and on some models three) monitors with a single GTX 550Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a new single video card of comparable power which can also support multiple monitors, I recommend the [GTX 750][1] which can be found for around USD$100, or the current [GTX 950][2] for about USD$140. The [GTX 660 Ti][3] is capable of supporting three monitors, but can be difficult to find because it has been discontinued.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtually any video card sold in stores today will support multiple monitors (at least two) and be capable of web content and bluray playback.  Bear in mind that ATi video cards will need to use DisplayPort (or a powered adapter) in order to use three displays simultaneously.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-750/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-660ti/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9339" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2473" RevisionGUID="c441754d-ec52-4cd4-b58c-67592dc58bca" CreationDate="2016-04-07T13:28:44.717" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 54, 60 edit id of 433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2480" RevisionGUID="d6c63cc6-f9f5-4413-890c-96d6fcfd3e4b" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:25:38.487" UserId="2226" Text="I am currently looking at buying a [**HP Zbook Studio**][1] with an **Intel Core i7-6820HQ**, and I am looking at buying RAM separately. The best option on the HP website is **32 GB 2133 DDR4 SDRAM (2 DIMM)** (probably **CL15**). Let's assume that price is irrelevant. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at this option: **[Vengeance Series 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 SODIMM 2666MHz CL18][2]** .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is this memory compatible with the ZBook?&#xD;&#xA; - Will this memory run at 2666MHz or will the computer/cpu limits its use at 2133Mhz?&#xD;&#xA; - What will bring me more performances: the 2666Mhz CL18 or the 2133Mhz CL15?&#xD;&#xA; - How big the performance difference will be?&#xD;&#xA; - What will be the impact of 2666Mhz CL18 compared to the 2133Mhz CL15 in terms of energy consumption?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&amp;urlLangId=&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=10151&amp;catEntryId=1150160&amp;quantity=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance-series-32gb-2x16gb-ddr4-sodimm-2666mhz-cl18-memory-kit-cmsx32gx4m2a2666c18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9342" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2480" RevisionGUID="d6c63cc6-f9f5-4413-890c-96d6fcfd3e4b" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:25:38.487" UserId="2226" Text="DDR4 memory for HP ZBook Studio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9343" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2480" RevisionGUID="d6c63cc6-f9f5-4413-890c-96d6fcfd3e4b" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:25:38.487" UserId="2226" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="85c641f8-ef3c-4e0a-9847-01d2854c3d51" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:11:33.793" UserId="2227" Text="In $200 price range, which card better: a Nvidia or amD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9345" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="85c641f8-ef3c-4e0a-9847-01d2854c3d51" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:11:33.793" UserId="2227" Text="In the $200 price range, which card is better: a Nvidia or amD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9346" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="85c641f8-ef3c-4e0a-9847-01d2854c3d51" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:11:33.793" UserId="2227" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2482" RevisionGUID="e9f4d768-7877-4032-bb9b-8de655e193f9" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:23:49.490" UserId="2208" Text="In this price range you have a few options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. From **Nvidia**: You really only have one option right now. *Note if your going for Nvidia I **highly** recommend waiting for the new Pascal based GPUs.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The **[GTX 960][1]**. *Although the link is to a Gigabyte card you are free to choose from any manufacturer*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. From **AMD**: You have a few options but by far the best is the following:&#xD;&#xA; - **[R9 380][2]**. AMD's top card in this price range. I'm a sucker for the STRIX branding but you can use whichever you would like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In Conclusion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So those two are the clear winners in each category, but out of the two I cannot pose a clear winner. If you would like to see a nice head to head I recommend checking out this one [here][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvr938g1gaming4gd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-strixr9380dc2oc4g&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-380-vs-GeForce-GTX-960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="ed344f30-7eda-44af-ae34-9f5374f9949a" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:55:46.023" UserId="2208" Comment="Grammar/Spelling" Text="In $200 price range, should I be looking at cards from AMD or Nvidia?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9352" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="ed344f30-7eda-44af-ae34-9f5374f9949a" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:55:46.023" UserId="2208" Comment="Grammar/Spelling" Text="In the $200 price range, which GPU maker is better Nvidia or AMD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9353" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="ed344f30-7eda-44af-ae34-9f5374f9949a" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:55:46.023" UserId="2208" Comment="Grammar/Spelling" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9354" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="ed344f30-7eda-44af-ae34-9f5374f9949a" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:55:46.023" Comment="Proposed by 2208 approved by 54, 214 edit id of 434" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2484" RevisionGUID="492bad02-6aa7-4c06-af1d-a4e07f07d301" CreationDate="2016-04-07T22:50:53.153" UserId="2208" Text="&gt;Is this memory compatible with the ZBook?&#xA;&#xA;Yes.&#xA;&#xA;&quot;Up to two SODIMMs, for system memory up to 32GB.&quot; - HP's website.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;Will this memory run at 2666MHz or will the computer/cpu limits its use at 2133Mhz?&#xA;&#xA;I have never heard of RAM speeds being bound by a CPU, and even if it was IMO the performance increase is negligible in everyday tasks.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will bring me more performances: the 2666Mhz CL18 or the 2133Mhz CL15?&#xA;&#xA;I'm almost positive that the former will be more expensive for starters. Now let's do some math.&#xA;&#xA;Ram Frequency is expressed in Hertz, which means &quot;cycles per second&quot;. So the 2666 ram will perform 2666 cycles per second, while the 2133 will perform 2133 cycles per second.&#xA;&#xA;Cas latency is given in cycles, thus CAS 18 means it takes 18 cycles to respond, while CAS 15 means it will take 15 cycles to respond.&#xA;&#xA;Now to do some math.&#xA;&#xA;- The 2666 RAM will take 18/2666 seconds to respond or 0.00675 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;- The 2133 RAM will take 15/2133 seconds to respond, or 0.00703 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;So in conclusion, the 2666 is faster.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;How big the performance difference will be?&#xA;&#xA;Around 0.00028 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will be the impact of 2666Mhz CL18 compared to the 2133Mhz CL15 in terms of energy consumption?&#xA;&#xA;Honestly, I don't think it matters. The ram plays such a small part in the energy consumption in the machine it's probably negligible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9357" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2484" RevisionGUID="f508311c-f1bb-452a-b9e9-c44b814bcc22" CreationDate="2016-04-07T23:04:41.583" UserId="2208" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="&gt;Is this memory compatible with the ZBook?&#xA;&#xA;Yes.&#xA;&#xA;&quot;Up to two SODIMMs, for system memory up to 32GB.&quot; - HP's website.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;Will this memory run at 2666MHz or will the computer/cpu limits its use at 2133Mhz?&#xA;&#xA;I have never heard of RAM speeds being bound by a CPU, and even if it was IMO the performance increase is negligible in everyday tasks.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will bring me more performances: the 2666Mhz CL18 or the 2133Mhz CL15?&#xA;&#xA;I'm almost positive that the former will be more expensive for starters. Now let's do some math.&#xA;&#xA;Ram Frequency is expressed in Hertz, which means &quot;cycles per second&quot;. So the 2666 ram will perform 2666 cycles per second, while the 2133 will perform 2133 cycles per second.&#xA;&#xA;Cas latency is given in cycles, thus CAS 18 means it takes 18 cycles to respond, while CAS 15 means it will take 15 cycles to respond.&#xA;&#xA;Now to do some math.&#xA;&#xA;- The 2666 RAM will take 18/2666 seconds to respond or about 0.00675 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;- The 2133 RAM will take 15/2133 seconds to respond, or about 0.00703 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;So in conclusion, the 2666 is faster.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;How big the performance difference will be?&#xA;&#xA;Around 0.00028 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will be the impact of 2666Mhz CL18 compared to the 2133Mhz CL15 in terms of energy consumption?&#xA;&#xA;Honestly, I don't think it matters. The ram plays such a small part in the energy consumption in the machine it's probably negligible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9358" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2484" RevisionGUID="437d13b4-a461-4bde-af82-f04c18af4c5a" CreationDate="2016-04-07T23:18:46.280" UserId="2208" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="&gt;Is this memory compatible with the ZBook?&#xA;&#xA;Yes.&#xA;&#xA;&quot;Up to two SODIMMs, for system memory up to 32GB.&quot; - HP's website.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;Will this memory run at 2666MHz or will the computer/cpu limits its use at 2133Mhz?&#xA;&#xA;I have never heard of RAM speeds being bound by a CPU, and even if it was IMO the performance increase is negligible in everyday tasks.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will bring me more performances: the 2666Mhz CL18 or the 2133Mhz CL15?&#xA;&#xA;I'm almost positive that the former will be more expensive for starters. Now let's do some math.&#xA;&#xA;**Ram Frequency** is expressed in Hertz, which means &quot;cycles per second&quot;. So the 2666 ram will perform 2666 cycles per second, while the 2133 will perform 2133 cycles per second.&#xA;&#xA;**Cas latency** is given in cycles, thus CAS 18 means it takes 18 cycles to respond, while CAS 15 means it will take 15 cycles to respond.&#xA;&#xA;Now to do some math.&#xA;&#xA;- **2666 RAM** will take 18/2666 seconds to respond or about 0.00675 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;- **2133 RAM** will take 15/2133 seconds to respond, or about 0.00703 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;So in conclusion, the 2666 is faster.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;How big the performance difference will be?&#xA;&#xA;Around 0.00028 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will be the impact of 2666Mhz CL18 compared to the 2133Mhz CL15 in terms of energy consumption?&#xA;&#xA;Honestly, I don't think it matters. The ram plays such a small part in the energy consumption in the machine it's probably negligible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9359" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2484" RevisionGUID="150223c1-1837-4a3c-a32a-ea184e09c350" CreationDate="2016-04-07T23:33:49.483" UserId="2208" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="&gt;Is this memory compatible with the ZBook?&#xA;&#xA;Yes.&#xA;&#xA;&quot;Up to two SODIMMs, for system memory up to 32GB.&quot; - **[HP's website&#xA;][1]**&#xA;&#xA;&gt;Will this memory run at 2666MHz or will the computer/cpu limits its use at 2133Mhz?&#xA;&#xA;I have never heard of RAM speeds being bound by a CPU, and even if it was IMO the performance increase is negligible in everyday tasks.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will bring me more performances: the 2666Mhz CL18 or the 2133Mhz CL15?&#xA;&#xA;I'm almost positive that the former will be more expensive for starters. Now let's do some math.&#xA;&#xA;**Ram Frequency** is expressed in Hertz, which means &quot;cycles per second&quot;. So the 2666 ram will perform 2666 cycles per second, while the 2133 will perform 2133 cycles per second.&#xA;&#xA;**Cas latency** is given in cycles, thus CAS 18 means it takes 18 cycles to respond, while CAS 15 means it will take 15 cycles to respond.&#xA;&#xA;Now to do some math.&#xA;&#xA;- **2666 RAM** will take 18/2666 seconds to respond or about 0.00675 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;- **2133 RAM** will take 15/2133 seconds to respond, or about 0.00703 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;So in conclusion, the 2666 is faster.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;How big the performance difference will be?&#xA;&#xA;Around 0.00028 seconds.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&gt;What will be the impact of 2666Mhz CL18 compared to the 2133Mhz CL15 in terms of energy consumption?&#xA;&#xA;Honestly, I don't think it matters. The ram plays such a small part in the energy consumption in the machine it's probably negligible.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://m.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04832209.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2482" RevisionGUID="45a75f25-53ae-48e5-93b0-ea1d522e7da4" CreationDate="2016-04-08T02:27:43.233" UserId="1885" Comment="Changed link to point to a Gigabyte GTX 960 from the same &quot;gaming&quot; group, not another Radeon." Text="In this price range you have a few options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. From **Nvidia**: You really only have one option right now. *Note if your going for Nvidia I **highly** recommend waiting for the new Pascal based GPUs.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The **[GTX 960][1]**. *Although the link is to a Gigabyte card you are free to choose from any manufacturer*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. From **AMD**: You have a few options but by far the best is the following:&#xD;&#xA; - **[R9 380][2]**. AMD's top card in this price range. I'm a sucker for the STRIX branding but you can use whichever you would like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In Conclusion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So those two are the clear winners in each category, but out of the two I cannot pose a clear winner. If you would like to see a nice head to head I recommend checking out this one [here][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvn960g1gaming4gd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-strixr9380dc2oc4g&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-380-vs-GeForce-GTX-960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9361" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2482" RevisionGUID="45a75f25-53ae-48e5-93b0-ea1d522e7da4" CreationDate="2016-04-08T02:27:43.233" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 54, 2208 edit id of 435" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2474" RevisionGUID="5e2d7348-3ef9-4cd1-8ef1-badfaed7ce54" CreationDate="2016-04-08T03:10:19.697" UserId="2208" Comment="formatting" Text="Things to check before buying:&#xA;&#xA;- **Temperatures** If the cpu temp exceeds 50c at idle, it has probably been overheated in the past and experienced more wear than others. &#xA;&#xA;- **Laptop hinges** If not opened slowly and from the middle, hinges wear unevenly and on many models break.  If there is looseness it is indicative of future failing.  &#xA;&#xA;- **Battery** Laptop batteries do not like frequent discharge cycles nor years of use.  When buying a used laptop, you can expect to be buying a new battery somewhere in the not too distant future.  You can check the wear level at the same time as the temperatures using HWMonitor from CPUID (freeware).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 3rd gen i5 at higher clock speeds will outperform a 1st gen i7 in single threaded performance, but in multi threaded applications the difference is less notable.  For your described usage the i5 would be preferable as it uses less power and you will not frequently be at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the models you listed, as a money saver I would choose the Llano based Toshiba.  The integrated graphics far outperform the IntelHD series (which will make web browsing and video editing smoother) and it is a more recent chip requiring less power than the older i-series (TDP 35W).  The price difference between the next models allows you to purchase a higher density battery for extended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the final notebook you posted (8470P) would have discrete graphics installed e.g. Radeon HD 7570M.  It's not specified in your question, but if it does it's the clear winner." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9364" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2474" RevisionGUID="5e2d7348-3ef9-4cd1-8ef1-badfaed7ce54" CreationDate="2016-04-08T03:10:19.697" Comment="Proposed by 2208 approved by 155 edit id of 436" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9365" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2481" RevisionGUID="3e51fbdb-5df1-4440-a101-7486575e54b7" CreationDate="2016-04-08T03:11:07.430" UserId="155" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:128,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Zizouz212&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2485" RevisionGUID="5fdec01d-1b34-42bd-88fe-aee4b06f28d5" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:32:03.957" UserId="1366" Text="Referring to [**this answer**][1] (on stackoverflow) to develop application in Xamarin.iOS using Visual Studio on my Windows 10 PC i will need Mac with requirements listed below (it can be found in this [**link**][2]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac running **OS X Yosemite (10.10)** or higher (although we recommend the latest stable version).&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Xamarin iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Apple’s Xcode(7+) IDE** and **iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has to be machine which will be used as a **Xamarin Mac Agent** (picture below) only I want it to be cheapest possible solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Xamarin Mac Agent description][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the end I will ask two questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the cheapest **new** Mac which will fulfill my requirements and how much I will have to pay for it ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What Mac should I look for If I will decide to buy **used** Mac and how much it will cost (theoretically, because of course price depends on condition and it can vary) ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/a/16158058/2585068&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.xamarin.com/guides/ios/getting_started/installation/windows/#Macintosh&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QedgZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2485" RevisionGUID="5fdec01d-1b34-42bd-88fe-aee4b06f28d5" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:32:03.957" UserId="1366" Text="Cheapest Mac for Xamarin.iOS development in Visual Studio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9368" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2485" RevisionGUID="5fdec01d-1b34-42bd-88fe-aee4b06f28d5" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:32:03.957" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2485" RevisionGUID="2312b5b2-3c6c-4b54-b828-2a5be051ec04" CreationDate="2016-04-08T09:19:02.240" UserId="1366" Comment="added 257 characters in body" Text="Referring to [**this answer**][1] (on stackoverflow) to develop application in Xamarin.iOS using Visual Studio on my Windows 10 PC i will need Mac with requirements listed below (it can be found in this [**link**][2]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac running **OS X Yosemite (10.10)** or higher (although we recommend the latest stable version).&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Xamarin iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Apple’s Xcode(7+) IDE** and **iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has to be machine which will be used as a **Xamarin Mac Agent** (picture below) only I want it to be cheapest possible solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Xamarin Mac Agent description][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the end I will ask two questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the cheapest **new** Mac which will fulfill my requirements and how much I will have to pay for it ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What Mac should I look for If I will decide to buy **used** Mac and&#xD;&#xA;    how much it will cost (theoretically, because of course price&#xD;&#xA;    depends on condition and it can vary) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Used examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will it be enough: [MacBook A1342][4] which can be found for around $130 in my country?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/a/16158058/2585068&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.xamarin.com/guides/ios/getting_started/installation/windows/#Macintosh&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QedgZ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook/specs/macbook-core-2-duo-2.4-white-13-polycarbonate-unibody-mid-2010-specs.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9381" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2480" RevisionGUID="c57777b4-fa5f-40d7-af87-27b4bdd18063" CreationDate="2016-04-08T20:26:55.923" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="8ae7a876-9aeb-4e2c-bdf7-531e221a0823" CreationDate="2016-04-09T01:20:46.463" UserId="2236" Text="&lt;return&gt;&#xA;&#xA;Background: I am working on rebuilding my desk, the glass top broke, and finally got around to ordering and obtaining my glass top for the desk. As a hardware and tech enthusiast, I am going to make this desk host a large portion of my wires for about 3 computers which will be in close proximity of the desk. It's a decent sized desk, and I have big plans for it.&lt;return&gt;&#xA;&#xA;My desk top will be glass, so I plan on using this to my advantage by placing a monitor directly under the glass on the right side of my desk. This allows me to save space and have the monitor to stay clean. The problem is the space is limited so the max height is 11&quot; and max length is around 17.5&quot; of what can fit inside.&#xA;&lt;return&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;The dimensions of the space is 17.5&quot; x 11&quot; and here is a pic of the area (warning, tech support gore):&#xA;https://i.imgur.com/zhIyQDE.jpg &lt;return&gt;&#xA;&#xA;Anything helps, but I do NOT want a USB monitor. I already have found one that is (USB 3.0) 15.6&quot; and the problem is it not IPS and is a shitty screen in terms of brightness and resolution (Plus it uses CPU). You can literally not view it at another (other than level eye to eye) angle. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;HDMI/Display-port input is ideal and close to if not higher than 1080p. IPS is ideal as well for viewing angles (unless any of you can give me an alternative suggestion), which is a monitor feature allowing one to view from any angle without fade.&#xA;&lt;return&gt;&#xA;&#xA;TL;DR I need a 1080p monitor within 17.5&quot; x 11&quot;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9385" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="8ae7a876-9aeb-4e2c-bdf7-531e221a0823" CreationDate="2016-04-09T01:20:46.463" UserId="2236" Text="Looking for Specific (WxH) Sized Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9386" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="8ae7a876-9aeb-4e2c-bdf7-531e221a0823" CreationDate="2016-04-09T01:20:46.463" UserId="2236" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9390" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="810eddef-b28a-4b72-8b11-04259cb66b3a" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:25:09.467" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 41 characters in body" Text="Background: I am working on rebuilding my desk, the glass top broke, and finally got around to ordering and obtaining my glass top for the desk. As a hardware and tech enthusiast, I am going to make this desk host a large portion of my wires for about 3 computers which will be in close proximity of the desk. It's a decent sized desk, and I have big plans for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My desk top will be glass, so I plan on using this to my advantage by placing a monitor directly under the glass on the right side of my desk. This allows me to save space and have the monitor to stay clean. The problem is the space is limited so the max height is 11&quot; and max length is around 17.5&quot; of what can fit inside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dimensions of the space is 17.5&quot; x 11&quot; and here is a pic of the area (warning, tech support gore):&#xD;&#xA;https://i.imgur.com/zhIyQDE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything helps, but I do NOT want a USB monitor. I already have found one that is (USB 3.0) 15.6&quot; and the problem is it not IPS and is a bad screen in terms of brightness and resolution (plus it uses CPU). You can literally not view it at another (other than level eye to eye) angle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI/DisplayPort input is ideal and close to if not higher than 1080p. IPS is ideal as well for viewing angles (unless any of you can give me an alternative suggestion), which is a monitor feature allowing one to view from any angle without fade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR I need a 1080p monitor within 17.5&quot; x 11&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2490" RevisionGUID="0546dd6e-11a5-404e-b2f9-5a3f74863df5" CreationDate="2016-04-10T03:37:12.737" UserId="595" Text="Your size requirements are a very odd size for monitors, so I don't think you'll find one exactly fitting your needs (short of having one custom made). That said, I have found some that are very close.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ViewSonic VA2055SM][1]:  &#xD;&#xA;- 8.3 x 18.6 x 11.3 inches  &#xD;&#xA;- full HD 1080p, 20&quot; diagonal  &#xD;&#xA;- Currently $84.99, *$171 regular*  &#xD;&#xA;- DVI &amp; VGA (only the one with built-in speakers has DVI)  &#xD;&#xA;Apparently, ViewSonic also has a proprietary panel technology:  &#xD;&#xA;**&quot;With SuperClear MVA panel technology, this monitor delivers the same image quality whether you are looking at the screen from above, below, the front, or the side.&quot;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ASUS VE208T][2]:  &#xD;&#xA;- 11 3/8 inches high 18 3/4 inches wide (without stand)  &#xD;&#xA;- currently $112.99, *$124.99 regular*  &#xD;&#xA;- 20&quot; diagonal, 1600x900 resolution  &#xD;&#xA;- According to reviews, good viewing angle  &#xD;&#xA;- DVI Input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VA2055SM-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B010BEDSE4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460257946&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=widescreen%20monitor%2020%20inch&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/VE208T-1600x900-DVI-D-Back-lit-Monitor/dp/B0045JFTXU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41kqnNAG4cL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1ZTAY9DNJJ3VZWMKHKH9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="27549994-aa15-491a-b270-414c04687aa9" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:10:35.310" UserId="2243" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer vendors are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other model, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9401" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="27549994-aa15-491a-b270-414c04687aa9" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:10:35.310" UserId="2243" Text="14&quot; Notebook, 32GB RAM (DDR4), trackpoint and matt display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9402" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="27549994-aa15-491a-b270-414c04687aa9" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:10:35.310" UserId="2243" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9403" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="d4bafd62-d012-4ec9-bf1c-aa03a57a91e4" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:16:54.217" UserId="2243" Comment="Just adding note about old ThinkPad keyboard to &quot;wouldn't it be great&quot; hypothetical question" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer vendors are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other model, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body (... or to put keyboard from T400-T420 to T450s)?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9404" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="78bc7f40-69e5-45eb-9ab5-62a17f001b5b" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:26:32.983" UserId="2243" Comment="Adding David Hill interview link (Retro ThinkPad)" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer vendors are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other model, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body (... or to put keyboard from T400-T420 to T450s)?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad &quot;retro&quot; as stated: [David Hill interview, CES2016][1] (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="25dbd1c0-8dc9-48d8-8059-4785ff721314" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:37:48.200" UserId="2243" Comment="Typo" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer vendors are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other model, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body (... or to put keyboard from T400-T420 to T460s)?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad &quot;retro&quot; as stated: [David Hill interview, CES2016][1] (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="6c3eba80-edc4-4c82-9e48-76c1dc769fbe" CreationDate="2016-04-10T19:09:10.240" UserId="2243" Comment="Add MS Surface Book" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer manufacturers are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;   - Function keys grouped by 4 as on classic keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other machine on market, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft Surface Book: up to 16GB RAM, arrow key size, eject button between insert and delete&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body (... or to put keyboard from T400-T420 to T460s)?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad &quot;retro&quot; as stated: [David Hill interview, CES2016][1] (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9428" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="a71d1ffd-e036-4224-aea2-db6a4c8a119b" CreationDate="2016-04-10T19:47:11.240" UserId="155" Comment="corrected title" Text="14&quot; Notebook, 32GB RAM (DDR4), trackpoint and matte display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9429" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="f3dbbace-504b-4b8a-bdf3-c59fa478a785" CreationDate="2016-04-10T20:49:37.907" UserId="2243" Comment="Add note about shaking screen when typing - MS Surface Book" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer manufacturers are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB (why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;   - Function keys grouped by 4 as on classic keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T460s: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other machine on market, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - Microsoft Surface Book: up to 16GB RAM, arrow key size, eject button between insert and delete, display is shaking when typing (watch some reviews), glossy (but 3:2!) screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13: too tiny (12&quot;), just DDR3, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 15: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;): up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ZenBook: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Toshiba Portege Z30: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Apple MacBook 13&quot;: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - ThinkPad T420s - renewed, 16GB DDR3 RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body (... or to put keyboard from T400-T420 to T460s)?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad &quot;retro&quot; as stated: [David Hill interview, CES2016][1] (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2409" RevisionGUID="93948f6b-8641-408b-8770-f969d745c92d" CreationDate="2016-04-10T23:50:59.233" UserId="8" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="There is one company that I have seen that makes a pretty good product for this - [Gefen's EXT-HD-MVSL-441][1].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have a multi-view switcher that takes 4 HDMI inputs and scales them, sizes them and outputs them either full screeen or in a &quot;windowed&quot; layout on a single HDMI montor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gefen.com/kvm/ext-hd-mvsl-441.jsp?prod_id=14882" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9436" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2409" RevisionGUID="e45dbec5-480e-4501-b0af-1cdf26ae72dc" CreationDate="2016-04-10T23:51:11.453" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="9f439e8b-1e27-4e05-a456-0544cde9f8b8" CreationDate="2016-04-11T12:39:42.020" UserId="1410" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I bought [the cheapest that Amazon has][1] and found that the battery only lasted a few hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to charge once a week, might accept once per day, but no less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No fancy features necessary (maybe notification of incoming calls &amp; SMS), as I want it primarily for telling the time, but also to program my own apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is tight, can anyone recommend a cheap Android watch with decent battery life, which they have personally used for a while (maybe even programmed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone at all?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Bluetooth-select-Android-Samsung-models/dp/B00KARD0D2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9438" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2407" RevisionGUID="62794553-a16a-44c4-933c-eee19e003ac4" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:32:25.563" UserId="219" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="Looking for an HDMI switch that has at least 4 inputs (1 output) and can be controlled/automated (preferably over Ethernet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget is highly flexible so long as the minimum requirements are met. If a higher budget grants extra features, I'm all ears but anything over $200 likely has over-inflated margins and is not really what I'm interested in. So long as there is something (free or otherwise) to control the switch either automatically or with something that can be automated relatively cheaply, I'd be happy. Any form factor is fair game." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2500" RevisionGUID="12a8459e-bad6-4d16-a65a-9cf3128befea" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:34:31.047" UserId="219" Text="This isn't necessarily the product I'd want but it's a low-end solution for **$18.28** USD: &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some IR sender could be programmed to control this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qfccF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2500" RevisionGUID="947a8313-a807-4d81-8d0e-00abd6acb951" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:40:47.987" UserId="219" Comment="added 112 characters in body" Text="This isn't necessarily the product I'd want but it's a low-end solution for **$18.28** USD: &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some IR sender could be programmed to control this. Perhaps something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Global-Cache-IP2IR-iTach-Wired/dp/B003BFTKUC [+**$92.00** USD]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a 5x1 option: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y?psc=1 for **$39.99** USD&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qfccF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0l7pi.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2501" RevisionGUID="f51a07ad-881f-4b37-b88d-aaaf29fa0186" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:50:44.347" UserId="531" Text="Assuming you have the rest of the hardware/don't mind sharing some with your PC a mac mini would probably be the cheapest option. Why? They're roughly about half the price of the Mac laptop models to start with. Exact prices would vary with model and country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Downsides? You'd need to supply your own keyboard/mouse and monitor. Its not as portable as an macbook of any flavour. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its pretty reasonably priced compared to a comparable NUC class machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're also often available refurbished, which may be cheaper. I'd go for a core i5 model over a core 2 model if possible. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9461" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2507" RevisionGUID="45676f98-88b6-487a-9834-5a333bd3bd84" CreationDate="2016-04-12T13:55:14.913" UserId="1885" Text="Consider the [Logic Supply ML100G-10][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM is a single SODIMM&#xD;&#xA;- CPU is an Intel Celeron&#xD;&#xA;- mSATA drive&#xD;&#xA;- 2×1GbE&#xD;&#xA;- NUC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My company uses a lot of NUC-class machines. While I have no experience with this particular model, we haven't had any significant issues with Logic Supply products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't speak to availability or how you feel about the pricing, but it is a NUC and it does have twin GbE ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logicsupply.com/ml100g-10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1709" RevisionGUID="87195c0b-a374-46ec-94cd-2eb7062c2563" CreationDate="2016-04-12T14:16:55.677" UserId="1410" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a very cheap &amp; cheerful NAS housing. Just gets the job done, with no frills.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found some, but they all run a 32bit Linux which limits the max disk size (to 16tB, IIRC). I would prefer not to have such a restriction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer not have any raid at all (not even RAID 0), so that if one drive fails, I won't have major recovery problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a cheap 4 (possibly even 2) bay solution in the UK (or with cheap shipping &amp; customs duty) to United Kingdom?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or would I be better simply using a cheap PC (or even a Raspberry Pi - if I can somehow attach that many hard drives) as a file server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2508" RevisionGUID="bed64cac-70f9-48af-b55a-82365c5bcc0d" CreationDate="2016-04-12T15:52:21.233" UserId="1885" Text="In order to cover Windows, Android, Mac OS-X, and iOS, you'll need a two part solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you've already discovered, [Miracast][1] is a wireless display standard. It is effectively HDMI-over-wireless. The Wi-Fi Alliance maintains [a list of compatible products][2]. Note that it can be called different things by different vendors; Samsung calls it &quot;AllShare Cast&quot; for instance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 8.1 and Windows 10 support Miracast. It depends on hardware support in the GPU, which modern Intel CPUs have integrated. Just be aware that having the right OS does not *always* mean the computer has the right hardware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same goes for Android - 4.2 and up have the software capability, but it's only useful if the phone or tablet has the hardware capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple has excluded themselves by Apple's choice, forcing their customers to purchase an AppleTV box as well. On sufficiently recent Intel-based Macs, part of the hardware to use Miracast/Wi-Di is *theoretically* there in the CPU, but there's no way to access it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to get the same capability for Apple devices, you'll need to include an AppleTV in your setup. The AppleTV is small, so you can probably find some way to fasten it to the same mount as the projector and just leave it up there. It has Wi-Fi, so you don't need to supply anything but power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In summary**: Your projector will need Miracast-capability *and* an HDMI port for the Apple TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miracast&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wi-fi.org/product-finder-results?sort_by=default&amp;sort_order=desc&amp;categories=1&amp;capabilities=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2510" RevisionGUID="531cc73a-1fe4-4a98-afbd-787df01b324b" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:30:20.327" UserId="2267" Text="I'm a developer by trade, but I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to the hardware side, so please forgive me if I am not detailed enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to find an all-in-one (i.e., screen and OS in one unit) device to run a Linux distro. on (preferably pre-installed).  It will be used for digital, in-store advertising (for an example, see [here][1]), so for security's sake, minimal functionality is important (details below).  What I have found on the market does not allow for any customization (i.e., access to the OS).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Attributes:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen (preferably not touch) and OS in one unit&#xD;&#xA; - 10&quot; screen, give or take; some flexibility can be afforded here&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - At least one USB port&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to be very powerful.  A Raspberry Pi 3 has tested to be sufficient&#xD;&#xA; - Sound output preferred, but optional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cannot have:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Camera, microphone, or any other similar device capable of gathering information from the immediate environment&#xD;&#xA; - Affixed keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Digital-Signage-Display-DB10D/dp/B00PZWQ7QY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460513627&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=digital%20signage &quot;here&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9466" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2510" RevisionGUID="531cc73a-1fe4-4a98-afbd-787df01b324b" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:30:20.327" UserId="2267" Text="All-in-one +/-10&quot; screen (not touch) w/ Linux, WiFi, USB, but w/o camera, mic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9467" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2510" RevisionGUID="531cc73a-1fe4-4a98-afbd-787df01b324b" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:30:20.327" UserId="2267" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;all-in-one&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2511" RevisionGUID="5eec363c-e175-4011-847a-a7f6e1d97fff" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:31:30.467" UserId="2268" Text="I'm working on a project where we're putting an interactive PC app in a public space.  Instead of a more expensive/fragile touch-screen display I am considering using an off-the-shelf gamepad (PC/XBOX) mounted in a holder like the ones you can demo games on at WalMart or video game stores... something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![example pic][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know where I can find a mounting system like that?  It should lock the controller in, but allow for replacing the gamepad if it gets damaged.  Bonus points for solutions that don't involve modifying (disassembling/drilling) the controller itself.  Super bonus points for adjustable height to avoid this scenario:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![oh the shame][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVZHk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oNtP5.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2511" RevisionGUID="5eec363c-e175-4011-847a-a7f6e1d97fff" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:31:30.467" UserId="2268" Text="Mounting gamepad controller for public use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2511" RevisionGUID="5eec363c-e175-4011-847a-a7f6e1d97fff" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:31:30.467" UserId="2268" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2512" RevisionGUID="7900456a-2053-4473-a808-92c607df91b0" CreationDate="2016-04-13T06:49:44.047" UserId="1366" Text="Another, not listed by you solution is **MSI GS40 Phantom-001**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - dimensions: **13.58&quot; x 9.65&quot; x 0.87&quot;** (so the size is close to your preferences)&#xD;&#xA; - display: it has **14&quot;** FHD **non reflection** screen&#xD;&#xA; - **16 GB of DDR4 (2133) RAM** with possibility to upgrade it to **32 GB**&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel Core i7-6700HQ** (quad core, 2.6 GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - not sure if layout of keyboard meets your requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is avaliable on newegg in two versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - with Nvidia GPU - [$1499][1]&#xD;&#xA; - without Nvidia GPU - [$1379][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152981&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152981R&amp;cm_re=msi_gs40-_-34-152-981R-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2514" RevisionGUID="07dfe998-4f61-472c-87d2-504ed65794bc" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:29:57.103" UserId="2273" Text="I would like to upgrade my *Lenovo S210 Touch* from **4** to **8** GB of RAM. I never did this before and I'm not sure what kind of RAM I need to buy.&#xD;&#xA;I think it needs to be a **8GB** stick of *DDR3L-SDRAM*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the Laptop I own:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- English: http://www.amazon.de/gp/switch-language/product/B00I9PW0PQ/ref=cs_switchlang?ie=UTF8&amp;language=en_GB &#xD;&#xA;- German: hXXp://www.amazon.de/dp/B00I9PW0PQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the specs (PDF, German):&#xD;&#xA;- hXXp://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512NbzjYq-S.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overview:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - Modell: Lenovo S210 Touch (Länderversion Deutsches Gerät)&#xD;&#xA;    - Prozessor: Intel Pentium Prozessor, 987, zwei Kerne, 1.5 GHz, Intel HD &#xD;&#xA;    Graphics&#xD;&#xA;    - Chipsatz: Intel, HM76 Express Chipsatz&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    - Arbeitsspeicher (RAM): 4GB, PC3-10600 1333Mhz, DDR3L&#xD;&#xA;    - Arbeitsspeicher (RAM now): 4GB&#xD;&#xA;    - Arbeitsspeicher (RAM MAX Supported): Limit 8GB max&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    - Festplatte intern: 8 GB, SSD, SSHD, 2.5&quot;, 500 GB (8GB SSD), Serial ATA 3 &#xD;&#xA;    (6Gb/s), 5400 rpm, Hybridfestplatte (SSHDD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What RAM stick works with my device? I'm looking forward to get feedback and recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*P.S.: hXXp = because I can't post more than 1 link.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9483" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2514" RevisionGUID="07dfe998-4f61-472c-87d2-504ed65794bc" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:29:57.103" UserId="2273" Text="What kind of 8GB RAM Stick works with the Lenovo S210 Touch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9484" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2514" RevisionGUID="07dfe998-4f61-472c-87d2-504ed65794bc" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:29:57.103" UserId="2273" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9485" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="ca4fac83-baa1-48e2-90c2-fd23097a1122" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:29:35.810" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://datascience.stackexchange.com/questions/11190/which-mac-should-i-buy-one-with-the-nvidia-geforce-gt-750m-or-the-latest-one-w" />
  <row Id="9486" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2516" RevisionGUID="a2d2f19a-7f60-4f9b-89dc-c9d4aa46dc4d" CreationDate="2016-04-13T08:19:18.347" UserId="2274" UserDisplayName="OvisAmmon" Text="If you plan to work with Nvidia's CUDA framework right away to do some GPU-based computations (neural networks primarily), you should stick with GeForce 750M laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, 750M's memory is only 2Gb (as the R370X is), so you will not be able to fit any big model into your GPU either way and will be forced to use either cloud instances or buy a separate GPU and somehow connect it to your Mac so the choice is really not too much relevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have any immediate plans to dive into CUDA-based computations, buy either the cheapest option (750M macs are previous generation, so you will buy them refurbished or used and that may save some money), or the newest (which is R370X) since it will be brand new and you will enjoy warranty period at its fullest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, Apple did release the Metal framework for native shader programming in OSX, which allows to use literally any supported GPU from OSX to program your computations, and there are some frameworks that use that possibility  ([Memkite][1] for example) - that will give you deep learning and computer vision on **any** mentioned GPU (and even on built-in Iris Pro which is built into the CPU). But the support of Metal is in its early stage, so there are not too much frameworks and projects using it for machine learning (though, you could pioneer in that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://memkite.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="b8d3a22b-d0b2-4e10-bd55-372010167611" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:55:31.767" UserDisplayName="vikiboy" Text="I intend to buy a **15.4-inch MacBook Pro 2.5GHz Quad-core Intel i7 with Retina Display**. The latest edition offers **AMD Radeon R9 M370X** , while the previous one has a **NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will primarily be using Computer Vision and Deep Learning algorithms. So, there is heavy possibility of using CUDA too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I opt for ? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="b8d3a22b-d0b2-4e10-bd55-372010167611" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:55:31.767" UserDisplayName="vikiboy" Text="Which Mac should I buy ? One with the NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M or the latest one with AMD Radeon R9 M370X ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="b8d3a22b-d0b2-4e10-bd55-372010167611" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:55:31.767" UserDisplayName="vikiboy" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9490" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="2516" RevisionGUID="9593842e-b4c5-4f7f-a42a-b105bc935179" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:29:35.810" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://datascience.stackexchange.com/questions/11190/which-mac-should-i-buy-one-with-the-nvidia-geforce-gt-750m-or-the-latest-one-w/11193#11193" />
  <row Id="9491" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="d799df91-2d38-4e50-a40e-da8f489886af" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:48:27.143" UserId="60" Comment="Added tags to the question." Text="Which Mac should I buy ? One with the NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M or the latest one with AMD Radeon R9 M370X?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9492" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="d799df91-2d38-4e50-a40e-da8f489886af" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:48:27.143" UserId="60" Comment="Added tags to the question." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2514" RevisionGUID="87272841-a08f-4bca-915e-d25c144dba36" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:03:22.837" UserId="155" Comment="removed unnecessary formatting and locale info; improved readability; translated to English" Text="I would like to upgrade my [Lenovo S210 Touch][1] from 4 to 8GB of RAM. I never did this before and I'm not sure what kind of RAM I need to buy. I think it needs to be a 8GB stick of DDR3L-SDRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overview:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Model: Lenovo S210 Touch&#xD;&#xA;    Processor: Intel Pentium Processor Dual-Core 987 1.5 GHz w/ Intel HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;    Chipset: Intel HM76 Express&#xD;&#xA;    Memory: 4GB PC3-10600 1333MHz DDR3L&#xD;&#xA;    Max Memory Supported: 8GB&#xD;&#xA;    Storage: 500GB SSHDD 2.5&quot; SATA 6Gb/s 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What RAM stick works with my device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-IdeaPad-59387503-11-6-Inch-Touchscreen/dp/B00F32ZB68" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="4318edbb-e362-4280-806d-68a42b69250d" CreationDate="2016-04-13T23:24:08.853" UserId="2053" Text="I am looking for a black/white laser printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* no requirement for proprietary / non-Free drivers&#xD;&#xA;* no requirement for proprietary printer plugin&#xD;&#xA;* linux compatible using wifi / lan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;bonus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* black/white sufficient (color is needlessly more expensive)&#xD;&#xA;* android compatible&#xD;&#xA;* wifi&#xD;&#xA;* usb&#xD;&#xA;* scanning&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="4318edbb-e362-4280-806d-68a42b69250d" CreationDate="2016-04-13T23:24:08.853" UserId="2053" Text="linux wifi network compatible laser printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="4318edbb-e362-4280-806d-68a42b69250d" CreationDate="2016-04-13T23:24:08.853" UserId="2053" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9500" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2519" RevisionGUID="de66602b-8bfe-48c6-9aa5-5626b0768ce8" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:10:42.867" UserId="275" Text="I would like a fairly simple sound mixer/control for home use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main function for it, is to allow me to route multiple devices to my speakers, without having to switch cables around,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current set up is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Computer -&gt; [USB] -&gt; USB Audio Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4) -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Ground loop isolator -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Amplified speakers (KRK RP6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like it to look like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Computer -&gt; [USB] -&gt; USB Audio Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4) -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Ground loop isolator -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Mixer-&gt; Amplified speakers (KRK RP6) &#xD;&#xA;                                                                                  Smartphone -&gt; [3.5mm -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; ^^^&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least two channels&#xD;&#xA;- RCA inputs&#xD;&#xA;- RCA outputs.&#xD;&#xA;- 1/4&quot; (guitar jack) inputs&#xD;&#xA;- 1/4&quot; (guitar jack) outputs&#xD;&#xA;- Simple 3 band control&#xD;&#xA;- Volume control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9501" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2519" RevisionGUID="de66602b-8bfe-48c6-9aa5-5626b0768ce8" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:10:42.867" UserId="275" Text="A simple sound mixer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9502" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2519" RevisionGUID="de66602b-8bfe-48c6-9aa5-5626b0768ce8" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:10:42.867" UserId="275" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2519" RevisionGUID="c3acfd4b-7fde-404b-8dc6-b3bd4e47051a" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:53:10.470" UserId="275" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="I would like a fairly simple sound mixer/control for home use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main function for it, is to allow me to route multiple devices to my speakers, without having to switch cables around,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current set up is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Computer -&gt; [USB] -&gt; USB Audio Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4) -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Ground loop isolator -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Amplified speakers (KRK RP6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like it to look like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Computer -&gt; [USB] -&gt; USB Audio Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4) -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Ground loop isolator -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; Mixer-&gt; Amplified speakers (KRK RP6) &#xD;&#xA;                                                                                  Smartphone -&gt; [3.5mm -&gt; [RCA] -&gt; ^^^&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least two stereo channels&#xD;&#xA;- RCA inputs&#xD;&#xA;- RCA outputs.&#xD;&#xA;- 1/4&quot; (guitar jack) inputs&#xD;&#xA;- 1/4&quot; (guitar jack) outputs&#xD;&#xA;- Simple 3 band eq.&#xD;&#xA;- Volume control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9504" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2519" RevisionGUID="c3acfd4b-7fde-404b-8dc6-b3bd4e47051a" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:53:10.470" UserId="275" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="A simple sound mixer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2520" RevisionGUID="28f34429-8ed0-4d09-9f66-d77295a4a6bf" CreationDate="2016-04-14T10:07:18.113" UserId="2198" Text="As my previous answer, that was deleted, up to now there is no DSL/VDSl modem/router supported, because fo problems with the driver and the management of the modem itself that connects to the Internet Provider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO, if you just want a name, I suggest you to look at ASUS DSL-AC68U because it supports a lot of OpenWRT features and it's directly maintained by ASUS. In sense that Asus bases its firmware on OpenWRT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to know it, FRITZ!Box 7490 has its own operating system that is NOT OpenWRT." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2520" RevisionGUID="9809e8af-83f7-4ec4-9824-6c9d0e937dd5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:25:55.990" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 41 characters in body" Text="Up to now there is no DSL/VDSl modem/router supported, because fo problems with the driver and the management of the modem itself that connects to the Internet Provider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, if you just want a name, I suggest you to look at ASUS DSL-AC68U because it supports a lot of OpenWRT features and it's directly maintained by ASUS. In sense that Asus bases its firmware on OpenWRT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to know it, FRITZ!Box 7490 has its own operating system that is NOT OpenWRT." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9518" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="50" RevisionGUID="31ae6f34-b7ff-4aac-a63c-145828f06008" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:37:59.560" UserId="60" Comment="added processor tag" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9519" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="3d7c5f59-addd-4c54-abba-88f526d4fe4c" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:21.220" UserId="45" Comment="re-added tag eaten up by the single-use tag killer" Text="&lt;calculators&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9520" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="251" RevisionGUID="3d7c5f59-addd-4c54-abba-88f526d4fe4c" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:21.220" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 1 edit id of 440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="2616203c-4f2f-4938-bc0a-253887a6fcfb" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:28.360" UserId="45" Comment="re-added tag eaten up by the single-use tag killer; clarified based on a comment exchange; minor English improvements; removed completely irrelevant article which is about the security of a piece of software sold with a fingerprint scanner, not about the security of a scanner" Text="I would like to ask you about some external fingerprint scanner with a higher level of security than typical built-in reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using several notebooks with built-in fingerprint scanner but it was quite easy to cheat them (I cannot really rely on them as at the first line of defense). In many cases it was not too restrictive when it comes to accuracy of reading, even if the settings of the hardware were selected to the highest level of &quot;security&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any experience with external fingerprint scanners? Is it worth putting some interest in this topic? Could you recommend something? The price is not the most important, what is important is accuracy (not accepting fake but resembling fingerprints).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="2616203c-4f2f-4938-bc0a-253887a6fcfb" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:28.360" UserId="45" Comment="re-added tag eaten up by the single-use tag killer; clarified based on a comment exchange; minor English improvements; removed completely irrelevant article which is about the security of a piece of software sold with a fingerprint scanner, not about the security of a scanner" Text="External fingerprint scanner with high fingerprint detection accuracy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9523" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="2616203c-4f2f-4938-bc0a-253887a6fcfb" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:28.360" UserId="45" Comment="re-added tag eaten up by the single-use tag killer; clarified based on a comment exchange; minor English improvements; removed completely irrelevant article which is about the security of a piece of software sold with a fingerprint scanner, not about the security of a scanner" Text="&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="263" RevisionGUID="2616203c-4f2f-4938-bc0a-253887a6fcfb" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:28.360" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 1 edit id of 439" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9525" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="d3112d2b-971b-4f36-93d9-3e50ac16459b" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:32.660" UserId="45" Comment="re-added tag eaten up by the single-use tag killer" Text="&lt;plc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9526" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="d3112d2b-971b-4f36-93d9-3e50ac16459b" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:56:32.660" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 1 edit id of 441" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2523" RevisionGUID="3467c04c-4de1-4563-879c-2a1bdd706233" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:05:15.493" UserId="45" Text="I'm looking to buy a keyboard. My main activities are typing text and programming, not gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Basic **105-key** layout. Either UK or French will do. A US keyboard is no good because it has one less key on the main pad.&#xD;&#xA;* Available for purchase in the EU. That should follow from the layout anyway.&#xD;&#xA;* **Quiet**. It doesn't have to be absolutely silent, but I derive no satisfaction from hearing the click of a keyboard, only annoyance. Keyboards should be felt, not heard.&#xD;&#xA;* USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Agreeable for typing**. I don't know how to describe this in technical terms. Unfortunately, where I live, very few shops have a selection of non-gamer keyboards to try out.&#xD;&#xA;* Extra “multimedia” keys. Ideally, with some **keys to the left of the main pad**. (I wish the standard layout of keyboards wasn't so imbalanced with the right hand doing everything outside the main pad!)&#xD;&#xA;* Available in white. When the sun shines on it, it does make a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not care:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Price isn't an object if the object is durable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Fancy blinkenlights and other gamerz stuff. Keyboard should be felt, not seen.&#xD;&#xA;* Fancy ergonomic layouts. I'm not good at switching between keyboard shapes and I need to stay used to mainstream keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;* Flat keyboards without any touch feedback.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2523" RevisionGUID="3467c04c-4de1-4563-879c-2a1bdd706233" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:05:15.493" UserId="45" Text="Quiet keyboard for typing, ideally with keys to the left of the main pad" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2523" RevisionGUID="3467c04c-4de1-4563-879c-2a1bdd706233" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:05:15.493" UserId="45" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2524" RevisionGUID="ec8995a3-0ddc-43c1-b85a-a76192a054c0" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:14:17.347" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2525" RevisionGUID="6d39fbaa-d3e5-4a47-91c2-2cbd45734483" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:14:17.347" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2526" RevisionGUID="0dc0fdcf-959b-4559-b5f8-d17dcce0bb44" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:15:20.493" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2527" RevisionGUID="fb079a37-11b4-4828-ae07-60c6b93a2e7b" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:15:20.493" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2528" RevisionGUID="6300b473-643f-4b5a-b54b-d70644739e29" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:16:56.220" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2529" RevisionGUID="faaa962d-52b4-4427-89ef-fbef6e13fe9f" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:16:56.220" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2527" RevisionGUID="bfbd9a11-40bf-4788-a455-a41deb56e387" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:56:35.310" UserId="45" Comment="added 101 characters in body" Text="Fingerprint readers, whether consumer products, parts to assemble, or built into a keyboard or laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9537" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2527" RevisionGUID="bfbd9a11-40bf-4788-a455-a41deb56e387" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:56:35.310" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 8 edit id of 444" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2525" RevisionGUID="3266b417-fa6d-4515-a41b-6c151bdff2c3" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:56:43.733" UserId="45" Comment="added 154 characters in body" Text="Questions about calculators, from basic four-function to programmable graphing calculators (but not including general computing devices or mobile phones)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9539" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2525" RevisionGUID="3266b417-fa6d-4515-a41b-6c151bdff2c3" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:56:43.733" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 8 edit id of 443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="92ea1076-f2eb-495b-94d3-a06bb9efc722" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:57:01.173" UserId="595" Comment="Moved unneeded answer into original question." Text="Background: I am working on rebuilding my desk, the glass top broke, and finally got around to ordering and obtaining my glass top for the desk. As a hardware and tech enthusiast, I am going to make this desk host a large portion of my wires for about 3 computers which will be in close proximity of the desk. It's a decent sized desk, and I have big plans for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My desk top will be glass, so I plan on using this to my advantage by placing a monitor directly under the glass on the right side of my desk. This allows me to save space and have the monitor to stay clean. The problem is the space is limited so the max height is 11&quot; and max length is around 17.5&quot; of what can fit inside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dimensions of the space is 17.5&quot; x 11&quot; and here is a pic of the area (warning, tech support gore):&#xD;&#xA;https://i.imgur.com/zhIyQDE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything helps, but I do NOT want a USB monitor. I already have found one that is (USB 3.0) 15.6&quot; and the problem is it not IPS and is a bad screen in terms of brightness and resolution (plus it uses CPU). You can literally not view it at another (other than level eye to eye) angle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI/DisplayPort input is ideal and close to if not higher than 1080p. IPS is ideal as well for viewing angles (unless any of you can give me an alternative suggestion), which is a monitor feature allowing one to view from any angle without fade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR I need a 1080p monitor within 17.5&quot; x 11&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT :**  &#xD;&#xA;I have successfully put on the new glass top for my desk (which originally broke) so progress has been made! I will have to do some tweaks to the frame of the desk to make sure it can optimally support weight. Here is a picture of the glass top if curious: (will edit in later)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@johnkieran (In response to your answer): I think of the two monitors suggested, the ViewSonic VA2055SM seems to definitely be superior... The 1080p and the &quot;SuperClear MVA panel technology&quot; or &quot;proprietary panel technology&quot; seems to definitely rival the IPS. If not, I can just return the monitor after testing it (I will update this post if it does not work). I think this also may mean ViewSonic will be best for this size range as IPS is extremely rare at this size, especially while keeping the 1080p resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next current question would be reducing the size of the monitor to fit the 17.5&quot; x 11&quot; space under the glass. I need to find a guide to remove bevel/frame of the monitor. I still am not sure what would be ideal for reframing it... True, I may be able to use a wide variety of materials to reframe it, but the question is what would be ideal/optimal to use and how to apply it. I am wondering if some form of cloth, but I would have no idea how to apply it. I want the LCD to be fully protected, regardless of the glass (desk).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other monitors I have found that are close or noteworthy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell D2015HM 19.5&quot; Screen LED-Lit Monitor (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012AQIEVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mCAdxb4MPA86Z&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP Pavilion 21.5-Inch IPS LED HDMI VGA Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WCV70W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_VCAdxbEDNVQSC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19&quot; LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUCVWGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mDAdxbAYYHNMC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SuperSonic 19-Inch 1080p LED Widescreen HDTV with Built-in DVD Player, HDMI Input, AC/DC Compatible (SC-1912) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057IM9EU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_EDAdxbFY1Q2B7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks all! I hope to hear some more thoughts!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2488" RevisionGUID="92ea1076-f2eb-495b-94d3-a06bb9efc722" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:57:01.173" Comment="Proposed by 595 approved by 8 edit id of 442" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2529" RevisionGUID="e2ce69c8-c179-4b0b-b8ba-ccd127886c74" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:57:10.330" UserId="45" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="PLC (Programmable Logic Controller)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2529" RevisionGUID="e2ce69c8-c179-4b0b-b8ba-ccd127886c74" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:57:10.330" Comment="Proposed by 45 approved by 8 edit id of 445" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2491" RevisionGUID="898103eb-ea0f-4068-b6a1-942676a55342" CreationDate="2016-04-15T07:09:33.170" UserId="2243" Comment="Add requirement for decent design; Add Vaio Z to list; some formatting" Text="As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer manufacturers are getting rid of recent years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I'm trying to find**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~14&quot; notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)&#xD;&#xA; - preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)&#xD;&#xA; - possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB - implies DDR4 RAM (and why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)&#xD;&#xA; - i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;   - no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows&#xD;&#xA;   - no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace&#xD;&#xA;   - Function keys grouped by 4 as on classic keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - decent (business?) look (very subjective, but let's use ThinkPad as reference again - nothing too fancy)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having any strict price criteria, it &quot;just depends&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I already considered**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **ThinkPad T460s**: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other machine on market, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)&#xD;&#xA; - **Microsoft Surface Book**: up to 16GB RAM, arrow key size, eject button between insert and delete, display is shaking when typing (watch some reviews), glossy (but 3:2!) screen&#xD;&#xA; - **Dell XPS 13**: too tiny (12&quot; footprint), just DDR3, no track point, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - **Dell XPS 15**: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - **Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14&quot;)**: up to 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - **Asus ZenBook**: too small, Fn to &quot;Insert&quot; key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - **Toshiba Portege Z30**: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)&#xD;&#xA; - **Apple MacBook 13&quot;**: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)&#xD;&#xA; - **Vaio Z (flip)**: 16GB RAM, no track point, glossy screen&#xD;&#xA; - ...&#xD;&#xA; - **ThinkPad T420s - renewed**: 16GB (DDR3) RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body?!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad &quot;retro&quot; as stated: [David Hill interview, CES2016][1] (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2532" RevisionGUID="c785f34c-0f7e-478a-97fb-bd75a1ff99ab" CreationDate="2016-04-15T13:47:00.793" UserId="2092" Text="I am looking for an in ear monitoring system for the stage.&#xD;&#xA;I don't have the money for the high end products, but I want at least decent quality. My limit is 500€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a singer and prospective guitar player in my band, and on stage I want to have an in ear monitoring system.&#xD;&#xA;I chose two systems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LD Systems MEI 1000 G2 + Shure SE215CL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Shure PSM-200 with Shure SE112 Headhphones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both seem to fulfill my requirements, which are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - wireless &#xD;&#xA; - two inputs, one for my microphone and one for future requirements&#xD;&#xA; - decent headphones (?)&#xD;&#xA; - correct frequencies (I live in germany)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not really sure which combination to use. The LD Systems solution is cheaper, so I would be able to use better headphones. In the solution from Shure it is in summary more expensive but I have only the SE112 Headphones, because they are contained as a set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The things that matter to me are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - interference free transmission and no/ low latency monitoring&#xD;&#xA; - good isolation of the headphones and enough volume (metal band... pretty loud sometimes...)&#xD;&#xA; - decent sound quality (I don't mind some static noise, but I should be able to recognize what I hear)&#xD;&#xA; - durability of equipment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what would you recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9560" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2532" RevisionGUID="c785f34c-0f7e-478a-97fb-bd75a1ff99ab" CreationDate="2016-04-15T13:47:00.793" UserId="2092" Text="Recommendation: Wireless In Ear Monitoring System" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9561" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2532" RevisionGUID="c785f34c-0f7e-478a-97fb-bd75a1ff99ab" CreationDate="2016-04-15T13:47:00.793" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2533" RevisionGUID="56c9f0e0-9e9a-403c-8260-8c6696e090e6" CreationDate="2016-04-15T15:32:50.103" UserId="652" Text="I have bought Philips 43puh4900.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Positive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- there a lot of parameters to set. After some time you find the combination that works well as a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;- you can also avoid overscan/underscan easily&#xD;&#xA;- the screen is matte not glare so you can use it many hours at a day for programming&#xD;&#xA;- 43 is better then 40 so you can split the screen in 4 monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Negative:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I made a big mistake cheated by manual and brochure. It says under hdmi (translated from italian) &quot;the TV can do 3840x2160 at 60hz&quot;. I suposed it was hdmi2.0 but unfortunately at 60hz it goes at chroma subsampling 4:2:0. So it is not usable and it is NOT hdmi2.0. At 30hz it does 4:4:4 so you can use for programming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9564" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2532" RevisionGUID="6c9d179f-38fd-4c0d-bedf-f3e46b32b031" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:02:51.837" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Wireless In Ear Monitoring System" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9565" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="69d2ec82-3505-487e-bb54-e0897ef7a2ed" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:52:54.690" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="For my work, we have to control a 50&amp;nbsp;kW power-station and coordinate different components, including some safety-critical sensors, reactions, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering to use a [PLC][1] as a master controller. We have about&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 30-50 digital I/O (with 10-15 special safety elements)&#xD;&#xA;- 10-20 analog I/O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The details are not yet completely clear. Nevertheless I was looking for a PLC solution for it, and I don't have prior experience with PLCs myself (but I do with microcontrollers). At first, I looked into the [Wago 750/753 Series][2], which offer some modularity. But then, people often recommend the Siemens S7 PLCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This time, it is to build a prototype, but we might expect 5-40 products delivered if everything runs fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the experience with the Wago PLCs, and how do they compare with the Siemens? And what would an alternative be?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_controller&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wago.us/products/components-for-automation/modular-io-system-ip-20-750753-series/overview/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9566" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="69d2ec82-3505-487e-bb54-e0897ef7a2ed" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:52:54.690" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="Which PLC would be recommended for small-scale industrial control?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="156" RevisionGUID="69d2ec82-3505-487e-bb54-e0897ef7a2ed" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:52:54.690" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 446" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="de442bb5-9b95-4344-9c86-50882d4aff15" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:53:00.110" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/4645/is-it-ever-correct-to-have-a-space-before-a-question-or-exclamation-mark#comment206109_4645&gt; and &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia&gt;)." Text="I intend to buy a **15.4-inch MacBook Pro 2.5&amp;nbsp;GHz Quad-core Intel i7 with Retina Display**. The latest edition offers **AMD Radeon R9 M370X**, while the previous one has a **Nvidia GeForce GT 750M**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will primarily be using computer vision and deep learning algorithms. So, there is heavy possibility of using [CUDA][1] too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I opt for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CUDA&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="de442bb5-9b95-4344-9c86-50882d4aff15" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:53:00.110" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/4645/is-it-ever-correct-to-have-a-space-before-a-question-or-exclamation-mark#comment206109_4645&gt; and &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia&gt;)." Text="Which Mac should I buy? One with the Nvidia GeForce GT 750M or the latest one with AMD Radeon R9 M370X?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9570" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2515" RevisionGUID="de442bb5-9b95-4344-9c86-50882d4aff15" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:53:00.110" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 448" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2516" RevisionGUID="ea1d1074-9c53-4156-9366-1863542afbf0" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:53:04.157" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OS_X&gt;). Added some context." Text="If you plan to work with Nvidia's CUDA framework right away to do some GPU-based computations (neural networks primarily), you should stick with GeForce 750M laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, 750M's memory is only 2&amp;nbsp;GB (as the R370X is), so you will not be able to fit any big model into your GPU either way and will be forced to use either cloud instances or buy a separate GPU and somehow connect it to your Mac so the choice is really not too much relevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have any immediate plans to dive into CUDA-based computations, buy either the cheapest option (750M Macs are previous generation, so you will buy them refurbished or used and that may save some money), or the newest (which is R370X) since it will be brand new and you will enjoy warranty period at its fullest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, Apple did release the [Metal][1] framework for native shader programming in OS&amp;nbsp;X, which allows to use literally any supported GPU from OS&amp;nbsp;X to program your computations, and there are some frameworks that use that possibility ([Memkite][2] for example) - that will give you deep learning and computer vision on **any** mentioned GPU (and even on built-in Iris Pro which is built into the CPU). But the support of Metal is in its early stage, so there are not too many frameworks and projects using it for machine learning (though, you could pioneer in that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_%28API%29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://memkite.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9572" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2516" RevisionGUID="ea1d1074-9c53-4156-9366-1863542afbf0" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:53:04.157" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 449" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="a3440f67-33af-41c0-8602-62424bc8dd51" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:48:04.837" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="I am looking for a black/white laser printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* No requirement for proprietary / non-free drivers&#xD;&#xA;* No requirement for proprietary printer plugin&#xD;&#xA;* Linux compatible using Wi-Fi / LAN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Black/white sufficient (color is needlessly more expensive)&#xD;&#xA;* Android compatible&#xD;&#xA;* Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;* USB&#xD;&#xA;* Scanning&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9574" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="a3440f67-33af-41c0-8602-62424bc8dd51" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:48:04.837" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="Linux Wi-Fi network compatible laser printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="a3440f67-33af-41c0-8602-62424bc8dd51" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:48:04.837" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 60, 54 edit id of 447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9576" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="c9910746-eeb2-4622-a78b-dc41e7482fd2" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:39:19.093" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9577" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1" RevisionGUID="1d30adb9-5d28-402b-8e20-8047bde941af" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:39:19.093" UserId="8" Comment="25" />
  <row Id="9578" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="e60803b0-8639-4595-991c-8a5f1c796f5d" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:39:33.017" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9579" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7" RevisionGUID="fac6c252-30da-46d6-8e57-43840255926f" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:39:33.017" UserId="8" Comment="26" />
  <row Id="9582" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="c39a938d-19cb-408a-a7bb-a8f2fd90adc0" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:40:41.803" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9583" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="23" RevisionGUID="f3ad87d7-f97c-4a0e-bbed-6ee8202abc61" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:40:41.803" UserId="8" Comment="27" />
  <row Id="9597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="330a7890-17ea-48c4-9e53-dedb03d72924" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:24:53.290" UserId="2295" Text="here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by GPU. Any other interesting options? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="330a7890-17ea-48c4-9e53-dedb03d72924" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:24:53.290" UserId="2295" Text="Graphics Card recommendation for the setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="330a7890-17ea-48c4-9e53-dedb03d72924" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:24:53.290" UserId="2295" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2536" RevisionGUID="228f344c-be4b-4159-9f5b-826e0332867d" CreationDate="2016-04-17T08:28:52.900" UserId="531" Text="1080p's pretty common and 'trivial' to drive - *any* midrange card should be able to handle it at high or ultra settings on 90% of games. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm an nvidia guy myself, and I'd say a 960 (or even a 950) ought to handle it with no issues. I've pushed a 660 up to quad HD (1440p) with most settings turned up on relatively modern games, and it served well. (I went 4k, and needed something with a little more oomph. Card got rehomed, and the new owner's pretty happy with it). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also suggest this as an *interim* card. It will handle 4k *output* but not gaming. When you do get a 4K monitor, it would make sense to pair it up with a 980ti (or its pascal or polaris equivilent). You have a good usable card now, and can get a less than top of the line card when you need it. On a all nvidia setup, you could use the old card as a physics co-processor. DX12 will also let you use 'mismatched' cards together. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 970's a decent card *but* in the situations where you need *all* that texture ram, the last .5 gb's on a slower bus. Typically not an issue, but taking a step up (to the 980) or down (to the 960) might be an idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not familiar with AMD, but the same rule of thumb, that the mid range cards are a good buy with the view to a future upgrade should hold through. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="8f891665-4439-4e29-88c2-be7b32f921f5" CreationDate="2016-04-17T10:15:52.793" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by GPU. Any other interesting options? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="0de7fa39-da88-448d-8923-9c81acdacfb7" CreationDate="2016-04-17T16:35:40.680" UserId="2295" Comment="clarified the point of the question" Text="Here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by AMD CPU. Any other interesting options? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="b6a31d98-93a9-4677-a8ea-ea09f9aa307a" CreationDate="2016-04-17T16:40:58.223" UserId="2295" Comment="added 136 characters in body" Text="Here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by AMD CPU. Any other interesting options? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD: currently I'm gaming on retina macbook on 1080p. It's GPU scores 1300 on videocardbenchmark.com; sometimes FPS it just too bad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="a57cc943-46b2-4ec0-a2e5-b0f307ca5b16" CreationDate="2016-04-17T16:46:25.433" UserId="2295" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="Here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by AMD CPU. Any other interesting options? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD: currently I'm gaming on retina macbook on 1080p. It's GPU scores 1300 on http://www.videocardbenchmark.net; sometimes FPS it just too bad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="6c8f6a66-78ee-4835-b004-10fb9c34aec2" CreationDate="2016-04-17T17:14:03.320" UserId="2295" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="Here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 280 seems good. GTX 970 would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by AMD CPU. Any other interesting options? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD: currently I'm gaming on retina macbook on 1080p. It's GPU scores 1300 on http://www.videocardbenchmark.net; sometimes FPS it just too bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD2: when investigating this question couple of days ago I've seen these places where people suggest r9 280 / 290 is a good match. I'd just like to hear couple more opinions though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2553053/gpu-overclocked-amd-athlon-750k.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/35e1mg/best_logical_gpu_upgrade_for_pc_with_amd_athlon/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="1074564b-3e91-49be-be73-7806bb71d18d" CreationDate="2016-04-17T17:22:55.250" UserId="1329" Comment="added 651 characters in body" Text="Edit: After understanding that the mSATA port will block the HDD drive bay I would suggest a **Dual mSATA** HDD adapter. Feedback is appreciated from anyone who is actively using such a setup as a boot drive on any OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2016-04-17: I hoped that Skylake equipped business laptops (HP, Lenovo, Dell…) would offer plenty of M.2 slots for SATA or NVMe storage, but the mobile chipsets don't offer as many PCIe lanes as the main or performance class desktop versions, which made some manufacturers come up with unexpected designs and decisions against a 2nd storage port or slot. Another example: Lenovo removed the small M.2 slot from the previous generation (T550) in favor of a combined 2.5 inch port where you can either install a SATA drive or a U.2 NVMe drive.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is list of recent mSATA SSDs for [Europe/UK][3] with capacities starting from 120 GB. I currently have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB which works fine so far, but there may be options that suit your needs better. Once you nailed down the features you want, look if the products are available in your country and for which price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guessing by your name you probably want to use the [German version of the site][4] for Austria and Germany.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;hloc=uk&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014#xf_top&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://geizhals.de/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="777" RevisionGUID="1d1bbb4b-d7fe-4ca4-948a-466068de6a0e" CreationDate="2016-04-18T08:07:18.837" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="For questions about geokinetic co-ordinate based input peripherals, also known as mice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9624" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2541" RevisionGUID="abcb95cf-322a-4296-aab7-9dfc097d2b27" CreationDate="2016-04-18T08:17:54.020" UserId="8" Text="&quot;Accessible hardware&quot; is the field associated with creating computer hardware designed to be accessible to people who have physical or mental disabilities of any kind. This includes paraplegia, partial or total paralysis, as well as mental disorders such as Asperger's syndrome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the most famous examples of accessible hardware is, perhaps, [Stephen Hawking][1]'s wheelchair and speech synthesis system. As a victim of ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis; MND or motor neurone disease in the UK), Hawking is unable to use traditional hardware. His wheelchair is equipped with a computer that is capable of interpreting movements of his cheek muscles to provide speech capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: //en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stephen_Hawking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2542" RevisionGUID="efc9312d-003e-4405-9f7d-e7983e2e6cbb" CreationDate="2016-04-18T08:17:54.020" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for devices that are accessible for those with physical or mental disabilities." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="992" RevisionGUID="25cf76a5-10cf-4256-9dcb-3b0c9d90deaf" CreationDate="2016-04-18T08:55:30.810" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="For questions about devices to display programs broadcast over radio transmission." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="779" RevisionGUID="d3a4efd5-ef08-4e4f-8efe-184145060fe5" CreationDate="2016-04-18T09:03:48.263" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 16 characters in body" Text="For questions concerning devices used to store data, such as hard drive or solid state disks, or flash memory such as SD cards or USB memory sticks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2543" RevisionGUID="9736830c-3a5e-4077-80ce-3c13c48dbff0" CreationDate="2016-04-18T14:33:16.987" UserId="77" Text="You could do worse than look at the compactrio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ni.com/compactrio/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; NI has invested thousands of person-years in this proven, validated,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; certified, and rugged hardware and software platform that tens of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; thousands of customers have deployed. With industry certifications and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wide-temperature range, thermal, EMC/ESD, and shock and vibration&#xD;&#xA;&gt; testing, the rugged CompactRIO platform helps you to deploy reliable&#xD;&#xA;&gt; systems that last. Plus, benefit from a wide-range of services,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; outstanding customer support, and the industry’s most extensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ecosystem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NI are usually very helful.  NI hardware was used in the large hadron collider so I expect it would suit your applciation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="189" RevisionGUID="8cd984ca-17c0-43ba-98c6-f381da5f210f" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:20:10.657" UserId="273" Comment="added key-backup requirement" Text="I'm always looking for ways to improve my security in the internet. As I'm also a programmer and somewhat active on [InfoSec][1] and [Crypto][2] I decided that a smart card is the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thereby looking for a smart card (or an USB-token) that has the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [elliptic curve cryptography][3] (256 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSA][4] (2048 bits+)&#xD;&#xA; - Storage for at least 10 keys of each of them&#xD;&#xA; - [FIPS 140-2 Level 3][5] certification (preferred) or high [Common Criteria certification][6] (EAL 4+)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be acquirable for private persons (non-companies)&#xD;&#xA; - Driver ([PKCS#11][7] / [CSP][8] / CNG) support for Windows 7 and Windows 10 (both x64), either directly or via [OpenSC][9].&#xD;&#xA; - Support for secure key backup and key recovery in case of a disaster (e.g. wrapped key exports along with a way to unwrap on a different physical card)&#xD;&#xA; - For actual cards: Standard physical interfaces (i.e. no vendor-specific card readers needed)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-mandatory points include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for custom ECC curves&#xD;&#xA; - Native support for [Curve25519][10] / Curve448&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [RSASSA-PSS][11] or [ECDSA][12] (without the software doing the hashing)&#xD;&#xA; - For actual cards: Contactless operatibility&#xD;&#xA; - Low price (&lt; $100 per piece)&#xD;&#xA; - Qualification for qualified electronic signatures (i.e. legally binding signatures), preferably under german law&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://security.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://crypto.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_curve_cryptography&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RSA_%28cryptosystem%29&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIPS_140-2&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Criteria&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_11&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryptographic_Service_Provider&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://github.com/OpenSC/OpenSC/wiki&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve25519&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PKCS_1&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliptic_Curve_Digital_Signature_Algorithm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2546" RevisionGUID="cf114667-ce54-4a81-9ba9-5510ce8d170a" CreationDate="2016-04-19T00:29:02.963" UserId="2307" Text="Except for the backup requirements, the [Gemalto IDPrime MD][1] seems to fit your requirements. Some caveats:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It tops at 2048 bits for RSA; for ECC, it supports only three standard NIST curves (P-256, P-384 and P-521), not custom curves.&#xD;&#xA; - From experience, at the APDU level, the signature operation is really a command to do a modular exponentiation with the private key; thus, the hardware is compatible with all kinds of RSA (PKCS#1 v1.5, PSS...) but the hashing and padding is done on the host computer.&#xD;&#xA; - The MD 830 is FIPS 140-2 lvl 3, the MD 840 is EAL 5+. There appears to be no model that is certified for both sides of the Atlantic.&#xD;&#xA; - The cards are available as standard-sized plastic rectangles, nominally compatible with all standard readers; but you can also get them under the &quot;IDBridge&quot; format which is a USB card reader with a card in it, with a small size.&#xD;&#xA; - Individual cards can be bought from [cryptoshop][2] but it is a bit unclear exactly what you get; there are IDPrime MD and IDPrime .NET cards that use the same packaging, and the latter do not support ECC (only RSA). On the bright side, individual price will be about 20€.&#xD;&#xA; - The cards are supposed to be reprogrammable with custom applications (in a subset of .NET) but I never tried that and I don't know if it requires extra licenses or things like that. I think that the certifications don't extend to cards which have been reprogrammed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for backups, I am ready to assert that you do not want backups for signature keys. In fact, presence of a backup for a signature key can only lower the legal value of a signature (but then, this begs the question of why you would want to sign anything; a signature you generate is a legal weapon pointed back at yourself).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For encryption keys, backups are necessary to avoid data loss, and then there is no really good solution with these cards, if you want private keys to _never_ exist outside of the certified hardware. For personal usage, even for the paranoid, you could arrange a key generation ceremony in which you generate the keys on an offline computer, booted over a CDROM and with no hard disk; the computer would then push the key in 4 or 5 smart cards, which would be so many backups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gemalto.com/products/IDPrime_MD/index.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://en.cryptoshop.com/gemalto-idbridge-k30-usb-shell-token-v2.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="b6bc9934-64dd-44ff-aed7-b5a61956552e" CreationDate="2016-04-19T00:57:58.750" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2547" RevisionGUID="9fd4a5c8-56df-41cb-9a94-7ee500db6880" CreationDate="2016-04-19T06:24:25.013" UserId="1366" Text="It not only depends on your CPU. Games differ by CPU utilisation some are more CPU dependent (for example Arma III) some are more GPU dependent  (for example Far Cry 4, Witcher 3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid CPU bottlenecking in all games I would recommend you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GTX960 - from NVidia&#xD;&#xA; - R9 380 - from AMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you compare versions with the same amount of VRAM the results are comparable. I would personally recommend version with 4 GB VRAM because new games use more and more VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid CPU bottlenecking in GPU dependent games I would recommend you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GTX970 - from NVidia&#xD;&#xA; - R9 390 - from AMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second option is in my opinion maximum for your overclocked Athlon. I would recommend not to go higher than GTX970 or R390 with your CPU. From this duo I would recommend GTX970 if you want to play only in FHD and R9 390 if you want play in higher resolution.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2547" RevisionGUID="79065d5a-3c99-411c-bbc3-fa89af8ae988" CreationDate="2016-04-19T06:58:14.000" UserId="1366" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text="It not only depends on your CPU. Games differ by CPU utilisation some are more CPU dependent (for example Arma III) some are more GPU dependent  (for example Far Cry 4, Witcher 3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid CPU bottlenecking in all games I would recommend you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GTX960 - from NVidia&#xD;&#xA; - R9 380 - from AMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you compare versions with the same amount of VRAM the results are comparable. I would personally recommend version with 4 GB VRAM because new games use more and more VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid CPU bottlenecking in GPU dependent games I would recommend you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GTX970 - from NVidia&#xD;&#xA; - R9 390 - from AMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second option is in my opinion maximum for your overclocked Athlon. I would recommend not to go higher than GTX970 or R390 with your CPU. From this duo I would recommend GTX970 if you want to play only in FHD and R9 390 if you want play in higher resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: What case do you use with your ITX motherboard ? How long GPU will fit to your case ? It can be important if your case is not aired enough you should look for card with lowest TDP." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9651" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2548" RevisionGUID="677f19ff-34ba-4e03-9952-4f2fd1c54134" CreationDate="2016-04-19T10:09:37.980" UserId="1366" Text="Reffering to a [manual][1] of your notebook there is one RAM slot (DDR3L 1333/1600) in your device, which can support up to 8 GB of memory: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo S210 Touch manual][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But after checking memory modules compatible with your CPU ([ARK site][3]) it says that maximum supported frequency of memory for your CPU is 1333 MHz: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![CPU specification][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would recommend replacing your 4GB RAM module with :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - G.SKILL (F3-1333C9S-8GSL) - DDR3L, 8GB, 1333 MHz, CL9 - [$33.99 at newegg.com][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_s210s210touchs215_hmm.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/w7XBm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/67194/Intel-Pentium-Processor-987-2M-Cache-1_50-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/v1wDD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2535" RevisionGUID="c2ee694f-7757-4d6d-a298-ff672ec6bceb" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:48:49.243" UserId="2295" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="Here's the setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AsRock FM2A75M-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - 2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? This CPU scores ~2100 single-core and ~5700 multi-core on `geekbench`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`R9 280` seems good. `GTX 970` would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by this `AMD CPU`. Any other interesting options? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD: currently I'm gaming on retina macbook on 1080p. It's GPU scores 1300 on http://www.videocardbenchmark.net; sometimes FPS it just too bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPD2: when investigating this question couple of days ago I've seen these places where people suggest `r9 280 / 290` is a good match. I'd just like to hear couple more opinions though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2553053/gpu-overclocked-amd-athlon-750k.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/35e1mg/best_logical_gpu_upgrade_for_pc_with_amd_athlon/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="7816d0c3-e9d2-4a04-aab2-8cbc083aa296" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:24:05.627" UserId="2314" Text="I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xD;&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to Display Port Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: 100$ for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like to know if somebody knows a website where I could buy a working adapter to have 144Hz working on my BenQ monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;Sacha." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="7816d0c3-e9d2-4a04-aab2-8cbc083aa296" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:24:05.627" UserId="2314" Text="Cheap Dual Link DVI to DisplayPort Adapter 144Hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="7816d0c3-e9d2-4a04-aab2-8cbc083aa296" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:24:05.627" UserId="2314" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="a39e76c0-4981-409b-a41a-e272b8b5564d" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:30:46.203" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 55 characters in body" Text="I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xD;&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to DisplayPort Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: 100$ for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like to know if somebody knows a website where I could buy a working adapter to have 144Hz working on my BenQ monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9661" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="4843a083-7599-4976-a8e4-086ea6e53ee1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:30:51.920" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="4cd1efee-af5d-4651-b180-2171091a8cc6" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:34:35.037" UserId="2314" Comment="added 172 characters in body" Text="I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xD;&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to DisplayPort Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: 100$ for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To resume, my goal is to find a good Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport Adapter if possible cheap, to have compatibility for 144Hz, because Apple's one is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like to know if somebody knows a website where I could buy a working adapter to have 144Hz working on my BenQ monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1098" RevisionGUID="7f58cf20-765f-4d78-8233-2f5dc858734f" CreationDate="2016-04-20T08:13:04.630" UserId="1221" Comment="Replaced dead link with link from The Internet Archive for posterity. Also fixed minor typos." Text="How about the [Sony Walkman NWZ-F886](http://web.archive.org/web/20151013020649/http://www.sony.de/electronics/walkman/nwz-f886) *(German link, can't find it on international homepage)*? It is a full Android device minus the phone function.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It’s a low- to mid-range Android device. It has 32 GB of space and should be good for playing music and videos.&#xD;&#xA;One bad thing about it… it has a rather low screen resolution (854 × 480 pixels).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the price of the device, which is quite high (around 300€). To be honest, I would recommend a phone in airplane mode over this, but if you just want a device without phone functionality, this is one of your options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1098" RevisionGUID="7f58cf20-765f-4d78-8233-2f5dc858734f" CreationDate="2016-04-20T08:13:04.630" Comment="Proposed by 1221 approved by 8 edit id of 450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9674" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="ca8d90c5-bb27-44f6-8a8e-f97d966ed607" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:29:39.183" UserId="60" Comment="Removed website recommendation" Text="I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xD;&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to DisplayPort Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: 100$ for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To resume, my goal is to find a good Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport Adapter if possible cheap, to have compatibility for 144Hz, because Apple's one is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like to know if somebody knows an adapter that will allow me to have 144Hz working on my BenQ monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9675" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="ca8d90c5-bb27-44f6-8a8e-f97d966ed607" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:29:39.183" UserId="60" Comment="Removed website recommendation" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="c809a341-ba5e-4441-bed4-76660c550f74" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:23:06.247" UserId="2041" Text="UHS-II(with 8 extra pins) supports much more speed than regular UHS-I microsd card, so I am going to buy a UHS-II microsd from (probably) Sandisk/Lexar. But I did not find any list of UHS-II supported phone/tablets. So I want to know if the phones/tablets I have on my wishlist support UHS-II.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Xiaomi mi 5, Redmi 3, Redmi Note 3, Mi tab 7.9, 2.&#xD;&#xA;2. Galaxy S6, S7, Note 5, Note Edge etc.&#xD;&#xA;3. Moto X Style, Play,&#xD;&#xA;4. One Plus One, Two, X.&#xD;&#xA;5. Nvidia shield tablet 1,2&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="c809a341-ba5e-4441-bed4-76660c550f74" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:23:06.247" UserId="2041" Text="Suggest me phones with UHS-II support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="c809a341-ba5e-4441-bed4-76660c550f74" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:23:06.247" UserId="2041" Text="&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9695" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="39f82e78-6750-4355-bdf7-fdc1a3eb10ba" CreationDate="2016-04-21T11:17:34.340" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2557" RevisionGUID="bb0dc90b-c660-4461-b45a-4de0ffa994ff" CreationDate="2016-04-21T12:34:08.610" UserId="1366" Text="It's really hard to find keyboard which meets all your requirements. So I will recommend you quite expensive keyboard but it will meet most of your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**WASD V2 105-Key ISO Custom Mechanical Keyboard**][1] - **base cost $150**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's customizable mechanical keyboard with 105-key layout. It provides buyer with many options which allows it to be the closer choice to your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Layout:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can choose from French/UK and many other layouts. Additionally you can customize other keys.&#xD;&#xA;[![french layout][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![uk layout][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Silence:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can choose between different types of Cherry MX switches and sound dampeners. I would recommend using **Cherry MX red switches** (+ $10) - it is most silent type of Cherry MX because of linear switch mechanism and softer spring than black ones. To make this construction even more silent you can add to it sound dampeners to keys but it is also quite expensive (+$25).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Color:** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately there is no possibility to order whole keyboard in white color but you can order it with white keys.&#xD;&#xA;[![whole keyboard][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - not avaliable in EU but it can be shipped to EU&#xD;&#xA; - **price** (with **Cherry MX red** switches($10), **sound dampeners** ($25) and shipment to France (~$45) it is **~$230**)&#xD;&#xA; - no additional keys on the left&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I assume that 105-key layout is the most important requirement ? Because I would recommend some cheaper devices in 104-key layout like [Natec Medusa 2 White][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-105-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gzizF.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VYXE2.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gO9Cz.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Natec-Medusa-International-Layout-Keyboard/dp/B00B1ACYYS/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461242091&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=natec%20medusa" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="2b18e35a-c8a9-4f30-a1cf-6f3d295f0198" CreationDate="2016-04-21T13:58:06.027" UserId="2041" Comment="deleted 194 characters in body" Text="UHS-II(with 8 extra pins) supports much more speed than regular UHS-I microsd card, so I am going to buy a UHS-II microsd from (probably) Sandisk/Lexar. But I did not find any list of UHS-II supported phone/tablets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to know which smartphones/tablets support UHS-II." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9701" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="b36758f0-8d64-4538-bfbe-534319dca414" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:05:34.703" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9708" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="23797b0b-819c-4b77-9751-2ca2a5c4e3fa" CreationDate="2016-04-22T02:27:59.317" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/121184/usb-memory-stick-automatic-encryption" />
  <row Id="9709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="7747654f-3fe7-4cc0-a290-8b2059700339" CreationDate="2016-04-22T00:23:46.693" UserId="2343" UserDisplayName="jarlemag" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setupp (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example one [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="7747654f-3fe7-4cc0-a290-8b2059700339" CreationDate="2016-04-22T00:23:46.693" UserId="2343" UserDisplayName="jarlemag" Text="USB memory stick automatic encryption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="7747654f-3fe7-4cc0-a290-8b2059700339" CreationDate="2016-04-22T00:23:46.693" UserId="2343" UserDisplayName="jarlemag" Text="&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2561" RevisionGUID="a971864c-128a-4f4a-9ba3-c9c92f7801bb" CreationDate="2016-04-22T07:36:55.580" UserId="1366" Text="## None. ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this moment there is no phone or tablet which supports UHS-II. Of course you can put UHS-II card in normal slot because it's backward compatible but there is many opinions that this cards are working worse than UHS-I cards when they are in UHS-I slots." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2563" RevisionGUID="7f79b293-8dce-436b-a30c-36694b922d29" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:41:48.123" UserId="2335" Text="I have an all in one PC from the mid-90s (Compaq Presario 3020 - See below).&#xD;&#xA;Based on the riser and from what I can measure, it looks like an LPX form factor motherboard/case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to bring it back to life and just do very simple stuff with it, e.g. file server or a Classic Arcade Game emulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, it doesn't have to be too powerful or need much cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which motherboard form-factors will be able to fit and line up the I/O ports without looking _too_ out of place?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points if you can suggest an actual motherboard + CPU that isn't too expensive (new or used is fine)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Compaq Presario 3020 Side View][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Compaq Presario 3020 Rear View Open][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/I1KcT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/phZ6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2563" RevisionGUID="7f79b293-8dce-436b-a30c-36694b922d29" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:41:48.123" UserId="2335" Text="What Current Motherboard Form Factors Will Fit An LPX Case?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9721" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2563" RevisionGUID="7f79b293-8dce-436b-a30c-36694b922d29" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:41:48.123" UserId="2335" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9722" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="c920226a-3b53-4f8b-beb0-3de8fd37de74" CreationDate="2016-04-22T14:17:46.187" UserId="1366" Comment="Added tags." Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9723" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2556" RevisionGUID="c920226a-3b53-4f8b-beb0-3de8fd37de74" CreationDate="2016-04-22T14:17:46.187" Comment="Proposed by 1366 approved by 54, 60 edit id of 451" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2564" RevisionGUID="2a95e483-e185-4fa8-bac1-678cc17b94db" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:18:09.263" UserId="2336" Text="Currently planning an new high-end PC with high-end graphics card, 4x hdd, etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Want **0dB** (silent) even under the high load, so no vent noise even from the PSU. For me the easy solution is: putting the PC into the another adjacent room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question: Looking for a piece of hardware which should contain:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- power &amp; reset buttons&#xD;&#xA;- plenty of USB-2/3 connectors&#xD;&#xA;- at least one usb-c connector&#xD;&#xA;- 3x display-port connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because one picture worth 1000 words (and my english isn't the best anyway) here is one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short: Looking for a device (an extender) which will contain all of the connectors and buttons that the PC (in the another room) has. (distance approx. 3m).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If exactly such device doesn't exists, any idea how to solve the problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zLaQJ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2564" RevisionGUID="2a95e483-e185-4fa8-bac1-678cc17b94db" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:18:09.263" UserId="2336" Text="&quot;All connectors hub&quot; for an another room PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2564" RevisionGUID="2a95e483-e185-4fa8-bac1-678cc17b94db" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:18:09.263" UserId="2336" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2564" RevisionGUID="95633e1a-9725-4115-a2d8-2918531d1a83" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:37:31.173" UserId="57" Comment="Removed question about alternatives - too broad" Text="Currently planning an new high-end PC with high-end graphics card, 4x hdd, etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Want **0dB** (silent) even under the high load, so no vent noise even from the PSU. For me the easy solution is: putting the PC into the another adjacent room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the question: Looking for a piece of hardware which should contain:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- power &amp; reset buttons&#xD;&#xA;- plenty of USB-2/3 connectors&#xD;&#xA;- at least one usb-c connector&#xD;&#xA;- 3x display-port connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because one picture worth 1000 words (and my english isn't the best anyway) here is one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short: Looking for a device (an extender) which will contain all of the connectors and buttons that the PC (in the another room) has. (distance approx. 3m).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zLaQJ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2565" RevisionGUID="0a3d0dba-7a9b-4712-9e54-7ed72fa87bcb" CreationDate="2016-04-22T16:49:05.970" UserId="2336" Text="I recommending to you try the [Apple keyboards][1] (works ok in Windows too). They coming in two versions (US or UK)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- low profile keys, so:&#xD;&#xA; - it is an &quot;typer's&quot; keyboard (usable, but not the best for gaming)&#xD;&#xA; - silent, but with good &quot;press feedback&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- USB connected (and contains 2 usb ports on both sides for connecting the mice)&#xD;&#xA;- silver aluminum body (even better on the sunlight as white) with white keys&#xD;&#xA;- you can buy it from any apple dealer in EU&#xD;&#xA;- nice design (IMHO) :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- no extra multimedia keys on the left side...&#xD;&#xA;- in the function keys the primary symbols are the apple's multimedia functions, the f1..f12 is printed in small letters (they works as functions keys)&#xD;&#xA;- price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ps: Me using it 3+ years and i'm absolutely happy with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MB110B/B/apple-keyboard-with-numeric-keypad-british&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DvCzj.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iqSHH.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2566" RevisionGUID="ee432c33-c9be-4d1b-a49c-fdfe59cc7ad4" CreationDate="2016-04-22T21:10:39.120" UserId="1279" Text="I'm looking for a bluetooth mp3 player with playlists support. Playlists in preferably editable text format (m3u,pls,xml), and not in binary non-editable format. &#xD;&#xA;I've been searching since quite some time, and found onn, fiio, sony, philips and apple to be providing bluetooth mp3 players, although none seemed to fit in `$250 USD + playlists` options... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a ruizu mp3 player + 64gb sd/tf card, and it didn't turn out to be what I expected. Had bluetooth, but no playlists support for bluetooth. I accidentally broke it, and would buy it again if it had playlists support!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, please could anyone here suggest a bluetooth mp3 player with playlists within $250 USD price range? Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2566" RevisionGUID="ee432c33-c9be-4d1b-a49c-fdfe59cc7ad4" CreationDate="2016-04-22T21:10:39.120" UserId="1279" Text="Bluetooth MP3 Player with m3u playlist support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2566" RevisionGUID="ee432c33-c9be-4d1b-a49c-fdfe59cc7ad4" CreationDate="2016-04-22T21:10:39.120" UserId="1279" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9738" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2568" RevisionGUID="fd57053d-c55e-4f5b-ad8b-2a62e80a5109" CreationDate="2016-04-23T08:21:11.330" UserId="1329" Text="If you can spend up to 250 USD and if it doesn't have to be very tiny then I would recommend to look for a smartphone¹. Several apps exist, among them **VLC for Android**, iOS and Windows Phone. I just tried it on Android which works fine with m3u playlists (I never bothered to try until now and VLC on my Windows Phone somehow doesn't read the same file, even if I replace the path delimiters).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can usually get good midrange smartphones in the 200 USD/€ price tier (+ the price for a storage card) with Bluetooth 4.0, more comfortable file sync through apps like Syncthing or ownCloud and HD movie playback capability. Here are some related questions that have already been asked: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/1329&#xD;&#xA;- http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/48/1329&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You don't have to use it as a phone that spies on you if you don't want to." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2568" RevisionGUID="ace7bfb6-53d7-4b8a-a555-8e7bef23961c" CreationDate="2016-04-23T09:05:11.340" UserId="1329" Comment="added 310 characters in body" Text="If you can spend up to 250 USD and if it doesn't have to be very tiny then I would recommend to look for a smartphone¹. Several apps exist, among them **VLC for Android**, iOS and Windows Phone. I just tried it on Android which works fine with m3u playlists (I never bothered to try until now and VLC on my Windows Phone somehow doesn't read the same file, even if I replace the path delimiters).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can usually get good midrange smartphones in the 200 USD/€ price tier (+ the price for a storage card) with Bluetooth 4.0, more comfortable file sync through apps like Syncthing or ownCloud and HD movie playback capability. Here are some related questions that have already been asked: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/1329&#xD;&#xA;- http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/48/1329&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: In case you're wondering, you can get decent a2dp in-ears from [QCY][1] for under 20 USD and decent fit (I forced Comply foam tips on mine, even though Comply doesn't want support them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You don't have to use it as a phone that spies on you if you don't want to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.qcymall.com/ &quot;All chinese manufacturer website with latest products and support documents&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2566" RevisionGUID="94cf4c33-5e53-4e89-ba4d-30266e9ed9ff" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:15:33.697" UserId="1279" Comment="edited to add answers to comment by LiveWireBT" Text="I'm looking for a bluetooth mp3 player with playlists support. Playlists in preferably editable text format (m3u,pls,xml), and not in binary non-editable format. &#xD;&#xA;I've been searching since quite some time, and found onn, fiio, sony, philips and apple to be providing bluetooth mp3 players, although none seemed to fit in `$250 USD + playlists` options... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a ruizu mp3 player + 64gb sd/tf card, and it didn't turn out to be what I expected. Had bluetooth, but no playlists support for bluetooth. I accidentally broke it, and would buy it again if it had playlists support!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, please could anyone here suggest a bluetooth mp3 player with playlists within $250 USD price range? Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Answer to the comment by **LiveWireBT**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please shine some more light on what your requirements for a &quot;Bluetooth MP3 Player&quot; are? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *Do smartphones qualify?* &lt;br&gt;`[yes! Even regular phones with play/pause buttons + playlists support in bluetooth]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Which size?* &lt;br&gt;`[not very big or heavy, similar to an ipod, although not very expensive.]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Battery life?* &lt;br&gt;`[85+ Hours]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Bluetooth version?* &lt;br&gt;`[2.1+ EDR]`&#xD;&#xA; - *How much storage (SDHC/SDXC)?* &lt;br&gt;`[expandable via SD/TF card to 64 gb.]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Should it play audio in high quality stereo (A2DP) to Bluetooth headphones and speakers?* &lt;br&gt;`[yes! Loud Volume + Quality of sound]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Should it transfer files over Bluetooth (I can think of better ways)?* &lt;br&gt;`[nope, file transfer not required.]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Just support for MP3, no AAC, FLAC, Vorbis, Opus?* &lt;br&gt;`[only mp3, and (if possible) m4a.]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Hi-Res Audio?* &lt;br&gt;`[I don't understand what High Res Audio might mean... I have (128-320kbps + 44100 Hz) mp3 files.]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Podcasts?* &lt;br&gt;`[nope]`&#xD;&#xA; - *Is a touch screen okay or too big?* &lt;br&gt;`[touch screen is fine!]`&#xD;&#xA; - *A certain resolution if you eventually want to play movies?* &lt;br&gt;`[nope]`&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2569" RevisionGUID="74216ecd-c961-4e58-ab9a-5de5c352eaf4" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:23:25.377" UserId="2345" Text="I'm doing research on improving augmented reality experience and I'm searching for a technology, available commercially, that would offer a real-time 3D map of the environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me paint you a picture. I have an outdoor area in a form of a rectangle, 20x30 meters. In that area there is a person wearing one of the available VR headset that has two cameras on it, feeding the image to the headset. Now I need to place objects into the environment. Current prototypes have trouble correcting positioning the object in the real environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to use 3D mapping technology to solve this issue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scanners would be placed on key locations around the perimeter giving mesh or a point clout of the environment with decent refresh rate (few times per second would be nice). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any suggestions on the available technology that could be used? (cost is not an issue)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2569" RevisionGUID="74216ecd-c961-4e58-ab9a-5de5c352eaf4" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:23:25.377" UserId="2345" Text="Real-time outdoor 3D mapping technology" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9743" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2569" RevisionGUID="74216ecd-c961-4e58-ab9a-5de5c352eaf4" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:23:25.377" UserId="2345" Text="&lt;3d-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="3e28dbf4-8fa6-4395-bb78-cfd6247c6f1f" CreationDate="2016-04-23T16:22:26.030" UserId="2343" Comment="Edited for readability" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="3e28dbf4-8fa6-4395-bb78-cfd6247c6f1f" CreationDate="2016-04-23T16:22:26.030" UserId="2343" Comment="Edited for readability" Text="USB memory stick with automatic encryption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="94251223-bc9a-413e-8ebd-a2b1eabe1b53" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:05:55.147" UserId="2343" Comment="Added list of encryption-enabled devices" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9759" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="ad67ac38-7072-4045-8b67-6d2f460450ff" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:36:11.993" UserId="2343" Comment="Added additional devices to list of encryption-enabled USB storage devices" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9760" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="dbdf6fb3-6204-4fdd-9560-9c621fb8e020" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:50:54.530" UserId="2343" Comment="Revised clarification: The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device." Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9761" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="dbdf6fb3-6204-4fdd-9560-9c621fb8e020" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:50:54.530" UserId="2343" Comment="Revised clarification: The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device." Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="8900c654-61f4-43da-96bb-4952a186ae8e" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:00:46.397" UserId="2343" Comment="Added corsair flash padlock to list" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="e7085a20-0731-4348-b1ae-48a6fbcf2e1a" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:05:53.223" UserId="2343" Comment="Added Kingston Data Traveller to list" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="ba5e8a32-e537-455b-8bcf-ada032c18b4c" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:17:33.343" UserId="2343" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files from the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="a7e64219-fffb-477f-92c6-28520bc8b7b6" CreationDate="2016-04-24T09:13:53.080" UserId="2343" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files on the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="4caa8d5a-5444-4b87-85d4-081ba144c33d" CreationDate="2016-04-24T10:38:53.623" UserId="2343" Comment="Device with audit trail might be an acceptable alternative" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files on the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above. Audit trail generation might be possible using add-on Access Enterprise Server (likely expensive)?&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: A device with the possibility of generating a full audit trail of all file transfers might be an acceptable alternative. For example, the Datalocker Sentry seems to be compatible with [&quot;SafeConsole&quot;][8] software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://safeconsole.com/managed-secure-usb-drives/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="97af655b-40bd-4c17-bd3c-cbb0a6c7a439" CreationDate="2016-04-24T11:21:42.803" UserId="2343" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files on the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above. Audit trail generation might be possible using add-on Access Enterprise Server (likely expensive)?&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: A device with the possibility of generating a full audit trail of all file transfers might be an acceptable alternative. For example, the Datalocker Sentry and certain Kingston Data Traveller models seem to be compatible with [&quot;SafeConsole&quot;][8] software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://safeconsole.com/managed-secure-usb-drives/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2574" RevisionGUID="ca4e169a-d97a-46c5-b866-77308cf37437" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:42:23.750" UserId="1057" Text="I currently have a Dell T7500.  The onboard RAID card can do RAID 0, 1, 10.  I would like to create a 1TB partition that has redundancy out of SSD's.  Currently I would be able to use 2 1 TB with RAID 0, or 4 500GB with RAID 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to save cost, I was thinking I could use RAID 5 with 3 500GB drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a hardware RAID card that I could use that would allow me to use only 3 500GB drives?  The cost would have to be less than the 4th drive or it would not be economical to do.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Extras such as future expansion would also be nice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2574" RevisionGUID="ca4e169a-d97a-46c5-b866-77308cf37437" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:42:23.750" UserId="1057" Text="Cheap RAID 5 controller for Dell T7500 to use 3 500GB drives over 4 500GB drives in RAID 10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2574" RevisionGUID="ca4e169a-d97a-46c5-b866-77308cf37437" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:42:23.750" UserId="1057" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2548" RevisionGUID="ef52b623-ad87-4808-ac9d-23910addc76e" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:43:45.687" UserId="476" Comment="Corrected grammar and spelling." Text="Referring to a [manual][1] of your notebook there is one RAM slot (DDR3L 1333/1600) in your device, which can support up to 8GB of memory: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo S210 Touch manual][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But after checking memory modules compatible with your CPU ([ARK site][3]) it says that maximum supported frequency of memory for your CPU is 1333 MHz: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![CPU specification][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therfore, I would recommend replacing your 4GB RAM module with a  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- G.SKILL (F3-1333C9S-8GSL) - DDR3L, 8GB, 1333 MHz, CL9 - [$33.99 at newegg.com][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_s210s210touchs215_hmm.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/w7XBm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/67194/Intel-Pentium-Processor-987-2M-Cache-1_50-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/v1wDD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="687" RevisionGUID="80206385-3dc3-4c9b-b3d6-bbc9921ed7b2" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:54:05.770" UserId="476" Comment="Edited question - one was a duplicate of the other." Text="Yes, I agree that you should be in doubt about updating to a GTX 980. The card is not much different than the 970, and it is a lot more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 970 vs. GTX 980:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores: 1664 vs. 2048&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Base Clock: 1050Mhz vs. 1126Mhz&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Texture Fill Rate: 109GT/s vs. 144GT/s&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;VRAM: 3.5GB vs. 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;And to answer your questions:&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will the 980 behave just like the 970 (only that the 980 will have issues at 4GB instead of at 3.5GB)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: Yes. However, it does have a few more CUDA cores. This will result in a greater overall performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will the game just crash if it tries to use more than 4GB of VRAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: I suppose so. Most games will try to regulate the amount of VRAM they use in accordance to how much you have. The reason the 3.5GB is an issue on the 970 is the fact that games think they can use all 4GB, and when they dip into that 'defective' 0.5GB, everything slows down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: Will performance degrade in a more progressive way (slowing progressively, or just losing details from the textures)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A: I don't really understand the question. If you play at 4k and use high res textures, the game will start lagging and your fps will go down, because they game does not have enough VRAM to hold all the information.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2575" RevisionGUID="0e4cfae1-aa1d-492e-a114-f66f1b33f338" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:54:11.967" UserId="2352" Text="I just got a new LG 31MU97-B that I'd like to hook up to my PC and Mac, but I can't find a [mini-/]displayport KVM switch that supports full Cinema 4k (4096x2160) at 60Hz, only UHD (3840x2160).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping there's something that my Google searches have missed, or someone else has had luck with a UHD-spec'd KVM still outputting Cinema 4k by sheer luck.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2575" RevisionGUID="0e4cfae1-aa1d-492e-a114-f66f1b33f338" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:54:11.967" UserId="2352" Text="KVM switch for Cinema 4k?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2575" RevisionGUID="0e4cfae1-aa1d-492e-a114-f66f1b33f338" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:54:11.967" UserId="2352" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="fe0fe21e-5125-4892-8d90-18beaf7952f2" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:26:12.323" UserId="2350" Text="##Functional Requirements&#xD;&#xA;I need a reasonably portable device that would allow people to use their laptops to connect via WiFi and navigate to a domain name I would tell them. The domain name would serve a web page that would have links to files for download that would be hosted **on and served from** the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Use-Case Requirements&#xD;&#xA;My use-case is for making 1 hour presentations I would like to run like a mini-workshop so **I expect to have ~25 people connected and downloading, all at the time same time**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###What is the Specific Use-Case?&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want give a presentation to people about how to set up an open-source local development environment for WordPress and so I need **people to be able to download the required files** to their computer **at the start of the presentation.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Why These Requirements?&#xD;&#xA;**WiFi Internet tends to be slow and/or unreliable** at the locations where I will be giving these presentations, and my goal is to get as many people to actually start using this local development environment I built as I possibly can so I want to ensure successful setup for as many people as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Assumed Technical Requirements&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the device will need to be a **WiFi access point**, it would need provide a **web server**, **DNS server** and **DHCP server** and the domain name such as `downloads.lan` would only be visible to them when they are connected to the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Non-Requirements&#xD;&#xA;The device does  **NOT need an upstream connection to the Internet**. All it really needs to do is give them a special purchase WiFi access point to connect to, download files and then disconnect.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###But Nice-to-Have&#xD;&#xA;However a nice-to-have would be to have the device connect to an upstream Internet connection using DHCP -- in the case such a connection is available -- then proxy the traffic to the Internet _(except traffic to `downloads.lan`)_, assuming the device could handle lots of connections. But again, that would just be a nice-to-have, not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##&quot;Failed&quot; Attempts Thus Far&#xD;&#xA;So I have tried several things thus far that either did not work or that were far from optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###LibraryBox on TP-Link MR3040&#xD;&#xA;My first attempt at this was to buy a [TP-Link MR3040](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4/) and install [LibraryBox](http://librarybox.us/) software on it. Unfortunately, it took over 10 minutes to download the necessary files with only 1 computer connected; far too long. So the device **needs to be fast; i.e. have lots of bandwidth.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Apple Time Capsule&#xD;&#xA;I then looked at an [older Apple Time Capsule](http://www.amazon.com/Apple-Capsule-MC343LL-DualBand-VERSION/dp/B002TLTGGM) I have. But it does not support a web server so it would be more technical to access, and it is on the very heavy end of portable.  This may be my fall-back, but I am hoping I can find something better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Ubuntu + Hostapd + Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180&#xD;&#xA;I then tried to set up an old [Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180](http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-IdeaCentre-31102KU-Desktop-Black/dp/B006THJIXI) I had laying around by installing [Ubuntu 16.04 LTS](http://releases.ubuntu.com/16.04/) and Hostapd, but I had a nightmare trying to get everything configured correctly all at once.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with Ubuntu Server but could not get it to connect to my WiFi -- which is necessary to download and install software -- so I switched to Ubuntu Desktop which has a GUI and thus I could get WiFi connected, but **I could still not figure out how to get Hostapd to work**. Evidently it needs to control the WiFi and yet Ubunutu Desktop does not want to let go of the WiFi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel certain this would work if I could just figure out how to configure everything. I expect maybe I need to buy another WiFi adapter for Hostapd to use like maybe the [TP-LINK TL-WN722N](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG) but I don't want to go down another dead-end and I am not much more than a beginner as Linux and I may not be able to figure it out on my own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Summary&#xD;&#xA;At this point I am **happy to spend money to solve the problem**. I am happy to buy a different device if you can point me to something that will work. _(I'd even hire someone to build it if the fee was modest!)_ I just want **_something_** that will work and meet my requirements, and not take 20 hours of my time to get working. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Any suggestions?**  :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="fe0fe21e-5125-4892-8d90-18beaf7952f2" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:26:12.323" UserId="2350" Text="Portable WiFi Access Point with HTTP Server for File Downloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="fe0fe21e-5125-4892-8d90-18beaf7952f2" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:26:12.323" UserId="2350" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9802" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2574" RevisionGUID="168476fb-303c-4dc3-b115-e090f0b3754b" CreationDate="2016-04-24T22:47:47.923" UserId="1057" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="I currently have a Dell T7500.  The onboard RAID card can do RAID 0, 1, 10.  I would like to create a 1TB partition that has redundancy out of SSD's.  Currently I would be able to use 2 1 TB with RAID 0, or 4 500GB with RAID 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to save cost, I was thinking I could use RAID 5 with 3 500GB drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a hardware RAID card that I could use that would allow me to use only 3 500GB drives?  The cost would have to be less than the 4th drive or it would not be economical to do.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Extras such as future expansion would also be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 500GB drives are about $150. So between $100 and $200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the connection type, PCI would be the standard. Having 4 SATA ports would be the most likely method of connection to the drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="fc4ad89e-f95e-4ff6-a784-22f78ad92461" CreationDate="2016-04-25T00:26:03.920" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="fc4ad89e-f95e-4ff6-a784-22f78ad92461" CreationDate="2016-04-25T00:26:03.920" UserId="40" Text="Flat keyboard with the shortest travel distance and lowest actuation force possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="fc4ad89e-f95e-4ff6-a784-22f78ad92461" CreationDate="2016-04-25T00:26:03.920" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9806" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="0d762cbe-b09e-4e46-8791-51d7511669b0" CreationDate="2016-04-25T00:42:53.153" UserId="40" Comment="added 307 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="23172a07-f205-47d1-8359-1123a7068f8d" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:22:24.257" UserId="203" Comment="added 103 characters in body" Text="##Background&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xD;&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to DisplayPort Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: $100 for the adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a low cost but reliable way to connect my Mac Pro to the BenQ XL2411Z so that it functions at the native resolution and refresh rate. The adapter has to be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced&#xD;&#xA; - Support the ports found on the Mac Pro (late 2013) and the BenQ XL2311Z&#xD;&#xA; - Able to function at the BenQ monitor's native resolution (1920x1080 @ 144Hz)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9816" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="670" RevisionGUID="ab38c319-9917-4d5d-8200-0fe638e020e0" CreationDate="2016-04-25T08:54:35.193" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9823" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="2cac1830-4b52-4a7d-97e1-349ec79e2afd" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:32:11.887" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="db4e7928-4d7e-41d2-9847-f21d7eb19a4e" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:34:12.577" UserId="57" Comment="very minor changes (removed &quot;thanks in advance&quot;)" Text="##Functional Requirements&#xD;&#xA;I need a reasonably portable device that would allow people to use their laptops to connect via WiFi and navigate to a domain name I would tell them. The domain name would serve a web page that would have links to files for download that would be hosted **on and served from** the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Use-Case Requirements&#xD;&#xA;My use-case is for making 1 hour presentations I would like to run like a mini-workshop so **I expect to have ~25 people connected and downloading, all at the time same time**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###What is the Specific Use-Case?&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want give a presentation to people about how to set up an open-source local development environment for WordPress and so I need **people to be able to download the required files** to their computer **at the start of the presentation.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Why These Requirements?&#xD;&#xA;**WiFi Internet tends to be slow and/or unreliable** at the locations where I will be giving these presentations, and my goal is to get as many people to actually start using this local development environment I built as I possibly can so I want to ensure successful setup for as many people as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Assumed Technical Requirements&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the device will need to be a **WiFi access point**, it would need provide a **web server**, **DNS server** and **DHCP server** and the domain name such as `downloads.lan` would only be visible to them when they are connected to the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Non-Requirements&#xD;&#xA;The device does  **NOT need an upstream connection to the Internet**. All it really needs to do is give them a special purchase WiFi access point to connect to, download files and then disconnect.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###But Nice-to-Have&#xD;&#xA;However a nice-to-have would be to have the device connect to an upstream Internet connection using DHCP -- in the case such a connection is available -- then proxy the traffic to the Internet _(except traffic to `downloads.lan`)_, assuming the device could handle lots of connections. But again, that would just be a nice-to-have, not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##&quot;Failed&quot; Attempts Thus Far&#xD;&#xA;So I have tried several things thus far that either did not work or that were far from optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###LibraryBox on TP-Link MR3040&#xD;&#xA;My first attempt at this was to buy a [TP-Link MR3040](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4/) and install [LibraryBox](http://librarybox.us/) software on it. Unfortunately, it took over 10 minutes to download the necessary files with only 1 computer connected; far too long. So the device **needs to be fast; i.e. have lots of bandwidth.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Apple Time Capsule&#xD;&#xA;I then looked at an [older Apple Time Capsule](http://www.amazon.com/Apple-Capsule-MC343LL-DualBand-VERSION/dp/B002TLTGGM) I have. But it does not support a web server so it would be more technical to access, and it is on the very heavy end of portable.  This may be my fall-back, but I am hoping I can find something better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Ubuntu + Hostapd + Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180&#xD;&#xA;I then tried to set up an old [Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180](http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-IdeaCentre-31102KU-Desktop-Black/dp/B006THJIXI) I had laying around by installing [Ubuntu 16.04 LTS](http://releases.ubuntu.com/16.04/) and Hostapd, but I had a nightmare trying to get everything configured correctly all at once.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with Ubuntu Server but could not get it to connect to my WiFi -- which is necessary to download and install software -- so I switched to Ubuntu Desktop which has a GUI and thus I could get WiFi connected, but **I could still not figure out how to get Hostapd to work**. Evidently it needs to control the WiFi and yet Ubunutu Desktop does not want to let go of the WiFi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel certain this would work if I could just figure out how to configure everything. I expect maybe I need to buy another WiFi adapter for Hostapd to use like maybe the [TP-LINK TL-WN722N](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG) but I don't want to go down another dead-end and I am not much more than a beginner as Linux and I may not be able to figure it out on my own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Summary&#xD;&#xA;At this point I am **happy to spend money to solve the problem**. I am happy to buy a different device if you can point me to something that will work. _(I'd even hire someone to build it if the fee was modest!)_ I just want **_something_** that will work and meet my requirements, and not take 20 hours of my time to get working. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Any suggestions?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2587" RevisionGUID="9ef15cb7-3b9b-4f92-951c-f395f3d751c8" CreationDate="2016-04-25T14:45:13.710" UserId="2243" Text="After some investigation what's difference in performance of DDR3 and DDR4 I decided to stick with 5 years old hardware - as what I saw, performance is not so drastically different (and actually with current mobile CPUs it could be even worse). Yet I'm left with &quot;only&quot; 16GB RAM for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I managed to buy almost-like-new ThinkPad T420s, equipped with i7 processor and secondary nVidia graphics card just for ~450USD, including docking station. (Well, I still have to spend another money on 512GB SSD drive)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="c9304897-b379-46f5-9c63-29eb1f328ad3" CreationDate="2016-04-26T05:54:11.870" UserId="2367" Text="We got  2 nvidia k4200 quadro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;. And we are going to buy two more later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for desktop motherboard which could handle them with the best bandwidth. We would use them for cuda calculations. I do not know much about new hardwares . So I have read some configurations from http://www.nvidia.com/docs/io/63567/buildyourownpsc_v2_2.pdf. But it seems these motherboards outdated and new one exists. And we want to buy motherboard that can be upgraded later What motherboards or configurations could you suggest which will achieve full bandwidth speed. It would be better if it had new generation 4x PCIe gen3 x16.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thx." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="c9304897-b379-46f5-9c63-29eb1f328ad3" CreationDate="2016-04-26T05:54:11.870" UserId="2367" Text="Desktop motherboards which can handle 4 Gpu x16 Pcie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="c9304897-b379-46f5-9c63-29eb1f328ad3" CreationDate="2016-04-26T05:54:11.870" UserId="2367" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="3672a08d-3e80-49e1-9480-bda26ca98f56" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:23:01.223" UserId="2367" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="We got  2 nvidia k4200 quadro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;. And we are going to buy two more later. So we will have 4x k4200 quadro&#xD;&#xA;Also we have Intel Core i7-4790 CPU. and 4 8gb DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for desktop motherboard which could handle them with the best    performance and full pcie bandwidth. We would use them for cuda calculations. I do not know much about new hardwares . So I have read some configurations from http://www.nvidia.com/docs/io/63567/buildyourownpsc_v2_2.pdf. But it seems these motherboards outdated and new one exists.  It would be better if it had new generation 4x PCIe gen3 x16. And better if it fits ATX case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thx." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2590" RevisionGUID="06000a66-f09b-4c95-8831-f2db08db69c3" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:24:26.820" UserId="1366" Text="It's really hard to find exact data about keys travel distance and force needed to actuate. But I would recommend you some keyboards which are good choices in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1st option:&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can start from **Razer mechanical keyboards with orange switches** they are a little better than Cherry switches if we talk about travel distance needed to actuation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Razer orange switches][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can find 3 models on newegg.com which have this switches, it's always Razer Black Widow in different configurations. [$80 - $100 on newegg.com][2] . What is important about this keyboard is that **it's not flat keyboard**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Flat membrane keyboards with **scissor switches**. Full travel distance **2mm-3mm** and force needed to full key press **40g-60g**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Scissor mechanism][3] in membrane keyboards is mostly used in laptops but it is also used in slim/flat keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Scissor switch][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest downside of this mechanism is that **it's easier to break this switches** (than normal membrane keyboard switches) by hard hitting the keyboard or when it falls to the ground but how often your **cable** keyboard lands on the ground ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When we look for good membrane keyboard with scissor switches I would recommend this keyboards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Razer Deathstalker - [$57 - $300 on newegg.com][5] it depends on additional features. I'm an owner of this keyboard and I'm not really happy with the wide spread of keys but it's only my opinion.&#xD;&#xA; - Cougar 200K - [$30 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - Cherry Strait - [$72 on newegg.com][7]&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GK-FORCE K7 Stealth - [$53 on amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3rd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Rapoo ultra slim keyboards][9]** - it's also scissor mechanism here but this keyboards are all wireless and ultra slim. I don't know exact values of travel distance and force needed to actuate but I assume that values are comparable to 2nd option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [~$30 on newegg.com (~$60 with touchpad)][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've put this keyboards in other option because they are ultra compact and wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends what are your other preferences (spread of keys, cable/wireless, mechanical(longer full keypress)/membrane with scissor switches, additional features like: touchpad, backlight, additional keys etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I would choose mechanical keyboard (Razer orange switches or Cherry MX red) and use [0.4 mm o-rings][11] (I'm not sure if they fit to Razer switches but if not Razer also has [o-rings][12]) to shorten the travel distance and make the keyboard more silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFeN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100164450%2050002202%204814%20600565707&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scissors_mechanism&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yRNpn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=-1&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=razer%20deathstalker&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=30&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567002&amp;cm_re=cougar_200K-_-23-567-002-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823333167&amp;cm_re=Cherry_STRAIT-_-23-333-167-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GK-FORCE-K7-Stealth-Keyboard/dp/B00F5VCV60&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.rapoo.com/productlist?searchword=index_1&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100160863%2050066524%20600009668&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Manufactory=66524&amp;name=Keyboards&amp;SpeTabStoreType=0&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.razerzone.com/eu-en/store/razer-mechanical-keyboard-enhancement-kit?src=pgm.81594800&amp;utm_source=Razer_Social_Media&amp;utm_medium=smlink_US_launch&amp;utm_campaign=razer_kb_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2590" RevisionGUID="81c0771d-2bf0-4799-b9cc-941fbdeb7b05" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:42:09.063" UserId="1366" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="It's really hard to find exact data about keys travel distance and force needed to actuate. But I would recommend you some keyboards which are good choices in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1st option:&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can start from **Razer mechanical keyboards with orange switches** they are a little better than Cherry switches if we talk about travel distance needed to actuation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Razer orange switches][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can find 3 models on newegg.com which have this switches, it's always Razer Black Widow in different configurations. [$80 - $100 on newegg.com][2] . What is important about this keyboard is that **it's not flat keyboard**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Flat membrane keyboards with **scissor switches**. Full travel distance **~2mm** and force needed to full key press **40g-60g**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Scissor mechanism][3] in membrane keyboards is mostly used in laptops but it is also used in slim/flat keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Scissor switch][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest downside of this mechanism is that **it's easier to break this switches** (than normal membrane keyboard switches) by hard hitting the keyboard or when it falls to the ground but how often your **cable** keyboard lands on the ground ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When we look for good membrane keyboard with scissor switches I would recommend this keyboards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Razer Deathstalker - [$57 - $300 on newegg.com][5] it depends on additional features. I'm an owner of this keyboard and I'm not really happy with the wide spread of keys but it's only my opinion.&#xD;&#xA; - Cougar 200K - [$30 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - Cherry Strait - [$72 on newegg.com][7]&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GK-FORCE K7 Stealth - [$53 on amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3rd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Rapoo ultra slim keyboards][9]** - it's also scissor mechanism here but this keyboards are all wireless and ultra slim. I don't know exact values of travel distance and force needed to actuate but I assume that values are comparable to 2nd option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [~$30 on newegg.com (~$60 with touchpad)][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've put this keyboards in other option because they are ultra compact and wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends what are your other preferences (spread of keys, cable/wireless, mechanical(longer full keypress)/membrane with scissor switches, additional features like: touchpad, backlight, additional keys etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I would choose mechanical keyboard (Razer orange switches or Cherry MX red) and use [0.4 mm o-rings][11] (I'm not sure if they fit to Razer switches but if not Razer also has [o-rings][12]) to shorten the travel distance and make the keyboard more silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFeN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100164450%2050002202%204814%20600565707&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scissors_mechanism&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yRNpn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=-1&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=razer%20deathstalker&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=30&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567002&amp;cm_re=cougar_200K-_-23-567-002-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823333167&amp;cm_re=Cherry_STRAIT-_-23-333-167-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GK-FORCE-K7-Stealth-Keyboard/dp/B00F5VCV60&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.rapoo.com/productlist?searchword=index_1&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100160863%2050066524%20600009668&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Manufactory=66524&amp;name=Keyboards&amp;SpeTabStoreType=0&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.razerzone.com/eu-en/store/razer-mechanical-keyboard-enhancement-kit?src=pgm.81594800&amp;utm_source=Razer_Social_Media&amp;utm_medium=smlink_US_launch&amp;utm_campaign=razer_kb_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9842" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="cb827b0e-7a90-4616-85b6-f56eb47188a0" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:01:05.347" UserId="1366" Comment="Brought some order to this question." Text="I am looking for desktop motherboard which could handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x nvidia k4200 quadro (4 x PCIe x16, gen 3 if possible)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-4790&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x DDR3 slot &#xD;&#xA; - max. memory size 32 GB (at least)&#xD;&#xA; - ATX format (if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would use them for cuda calculations we need full PCIe bandwith. So I have read some configurations from [this guide][1]. But it seems these motherboards outdated and new one exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nvidia.com/docs/io/63567/buildyourownpsc_v2_2.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="cb827b0e-7a90-4616-85b6-f56eb47188a0" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:01:05.347" UserId="1366" Comment="Brought some order to this question." Text="Desktop motherboards (LGA 1150) which can handle 4 Gpu x16 Pcie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="cb827b0e-7a90-4616-85b6-f56eb47188a0" CreationDate="2016-04-26T08:01:05.347" Comment="Proposed by 1366 approved by 2367 edit id of 452" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="6e9a592f-7d3e-4989-8998-00a127475f00" CreationDate="2016-04-26T13:11:46.100" UserId="2367" Comment="deleted 184 characters in body" Text="I am looking for desktop motherboard which could handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x nvidia k4200 quadro (4 x PCIe x16, gen 3 if possible)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-4790&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x DDR3 slot &#xD;&#xA; - max. memory size 32 GB (at least)&#xD;&#xA; - ATX format (if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would use them for cuda calculations we need full PCIe bandwith.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2590" RevisionGUID="9bad7175-b760-4c35-a8dc-fae65acbedd0" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:55:01.167" UserId="40" Comment="added 685 characters in body" Text="It's really hard to find exact data about keys travel distance and force needed to actuate. But I would recommend you some keyboards which are good choices in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1st option:&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can start from **Razer mechanical keyboards with orange switches** they are a little better than Cherry switches if we talk about travel distance needed to actuation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Razer orange switches][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can find 3 models on newegg.com which have this switches, it's always Razer Black Widow in different configurations. [$80 - $100 on newegg.com][2] . What is important about this keyboard is that **it's not flat keyboard**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Flat membrane keyboards with **scissor switches**. Full travel distance **~2mm** and force needed to full key press **40g-60g**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Scissor mechanism][3] in membrane keyboards is mostly used in laptops but it is also used in slim/flat keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Scissor switch][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest downside of this mechanism is that **it's easier to break this switches** (than normal membrane keyboard switches) by hard hitting the keyboard or when it falls to the ground but how often your **cable** keyboard lands on the ground ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When we look for good membrane keyboard with scissor switches I would recommend this keyboards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Razer Deathstalker - [$57 - $300 on newegg.com][5] it depends on additional features. I'm an owner of this keyboard and I'm not really happy with the wide spread of keys but it's only my opinion.&#xD;&#xA; - Cougar 200K - [$30 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - Cherry Strait - [$72 on newegg.com][7]&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GK-FORCE K7 Stealth - [$53 on amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3rd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Rapoo ultra slim keyboards][9]** - it's also scissor mechanism here but this keyboards are all wireless and ultra slim. I don't know exact values of travel distance and force needed to actuate but I assume that values are comparable to 2nd option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [~$30 on newegg.com (~$60 with touchpad)][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've put this keyboards in other option because they are ultra compact and wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One exception is the [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ), which is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle:60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel:2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends what are your other preferences (spread of keys, cable/wireless, mechanical(longer full keypress)/membrane with scissor switches, additional features like: touchpad, backlight, additional keys etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I would choose mechanical keyboard (Razer orange switches or Cherry MX red) and use [0.4 mm o-rings][11] (I'm not sure if they fit to Razer switches but if not Razer also has [o-rings][12]) to shorten the travel distance and make the keyboard more silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFeN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100164450%2050002202%204814%20600565707&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scissors_mechanism&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yRNpn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=-1&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=razer%20deathstalker&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=30&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567002&amp;cm_re=cougar_200K-_-23-567-002-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823333167&amp;cm_re=Cherry_STRAIT-_-23-333-167-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GK-FORCE-K7-Stealth-Keyboard/dp/B00F5VCV60&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.rapoo.com/productlist?searchword=index_1&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100160863%2050066524%20600009668&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Manufactory=66524&amp;name=Keyboards&amp;SpeTabStoreType=0&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.razerzone.com/eu-en/store/razer-mechanical-keyboard-enhancement-kit?src=pgm.81594800&amp;utm_source=Razer_Social_Media&amp;utm_medium=smlink_US_launch&amp;utm_campaign=razer_kb_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2592" RevisionGUID="12f431a9-1bd5-4f84-8d20-e4ca8ee58411" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:33:59.533" UserId="2373" Text="Im looking for recommendations for which router to buy for my new gigabit connection at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a 1000mbit/1000mbit connection&#xD;&#xA;- a small apartment with no thick walls&#xD;&#xA;- maximum three devices connected at the same time (ps4, laptop, stationary computer, phone)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- wifi performance benchmarked with (very) good results (will mostly be used on 5ghz band and I want to be able to utilize as much of the potential speed as possible)&#xD;&#xA;- good ethernet speed (will be connected to the stationary computer)&#xD;&#xA;- preferably not overly expensive (300$)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2592" RevisionGUID="12f431a9-1bd5-4f84-8d20-e4ca8ee58411" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:33:59.533" UserId="2373" Text="Router for gigabit connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2592" RevisionGUID="12f431a9-1bd5-4f84-8d20-e4ca8ee58411" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:33:59.533" UserId="2373" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="411970e0-30f8-4cd5-98a3-bb47c046878b" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:51:45.843" UserId="40" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="35bb58ef-6b7a-405b-b2f4-53d76f18593b" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:57:16.653" UserId="40" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="5c726864-942e-486a-922f-c665a2aefe3a" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:09:32.533" UserId="40" Comment="added 312 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="be514dba-419f-4d1c-8a23-6c6fd3eacb05" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:19:19.683" UserId="40" Comment="added 411 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="28c64e81-0e12-4f91-b87a-31929298d86c" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:26:08.797" UserId="40" Comment="added 411 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9858" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="69a34c8d-c2ed-4a47-8810-2618feff9b70" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:43:04.970" UserId="40" Comment="added 448 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). It looks quite thin but I don't want a split keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="55a4981c-6a1a-479e-b919-29b44a544128" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:49:30.820" UserId="40" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). It looks quite thin but I don't want a split keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9860" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="2590" RevisionGUID="f0a65c66-04fe-4e9f-b92b-2eefefff3ece" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:32:20.553" UserId="40" Comment="Rollback to [81c0771d-2bf0-4799-b9cc-941fbdeb7b05]" Text="It's really hard to find exact data about keys travel distance and force needed to actuate. But I would recommend you some keyboards which are good choices in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1st option:&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can start from **Razer mechanical keyboards with orange switches** they are a little better than Cherry switches if we talk about travel distance needed to actuation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Razer orange switches][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can find 3 models on newegg.com which have this switches, it's always Razer Black Widow in different configurations. [$80 - $100 on newegg.com][2] . What is important about this keyboard is that **it's not flat keyboard**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Flat membrane keyboards with **scissor switches**. Full travel distance **~2mm** and force needed to full key press **40g-60g**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Scissor mechanism][3] in membrane keyboards is mostly used in laptops but it is also used in slim/flat keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Scissor switch][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest downside of this mechanism is that **it's easier to break this switches** (than normal membrane keyboard switches) by hard hitting the keyboard or when it falls to the ground but how often your **cable** keyboard lands on the ground ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When we look for good membrane keyboard with scissor switches I would recommend this keyboards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Razer Deathstalker - [$57 - $300 on newegg.com][5] it depends on additional features. I'm an owner of this keyboard and I'm not really happy with the wide spread of keys but it's only my opinion.&#xD;&#xA; - Cougar 200K - [$30 on newegg.com][6]&#xD;&#xA; - Cherry Strait - [$72 on newegg.com][7]&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GK-FORCE K7 Stealth - [$53 on amazon.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3rd option:&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Rapoo ultra slim keyboards][9]** - it's also scissor mechanism here but this keyboards are all wireless and ultra slim. I don't know exact values of travel distance and force needed to actuate but I assume that values are comparable to 2nd option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [~$30 on newegg.com (~$60 with touchpad)][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've put this keyboards in other option because they are ultra compact and wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It really depends what are your other preferences (spread of keys, cable/wireless, mechanical(longer full keypress)/membrane with scissor switches, additional features like: touchpad, backlight, additional keys etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I would choose mechanical keyboard (Razer orange switches or Cherry MX red) and use [0.4 mm o-rings][11] (I'm not sure if they fit to Razer switches but if not Razer also has [o-rings][12]) to shorten the travel distance and make the keyboard more silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLFeN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100164450%2050002202%204814%20600565707&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scissors_mechanism&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yRNpn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=-1&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=razer%20deathstalker&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=30&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567002&amp;cm_re=cougar_200K-_-23-567-002-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823333167&amp;cm_re=Cherry_STRAIT-_-23-333-167-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GK-FORCE-K7-Stealth-Keyboard/dp/B00F5VCV60&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.rapoo.com/productlist?searchword=index_1&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100160863%2050066524%20600009668&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Manufactory=66524&amp;name=Keyboards&amp;SpeTabStoreType=0&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.razerzone.com/eu-en/store/razer-mechanical-keyboard-enhancement-kit?src=pgm.81594800&amp;utm_source=Razer_Social_Media&amp;utm_medium=smlink_US_launch&amp;utm_campaign=razer_kb_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="2354cc7e-7b84-4af3-abd0-972895294514" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:40:44.760" UserId="40" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASog.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9862" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="2eb07632-7850-44a3-b718-fadcee233044" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:05:35.613" UserId="40" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) (85 USD) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASog.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="937f4c08-f7a1-4a0a-a61f-dcce84cc1c81" CreationDate="2016-04-27T03:05:52.737" UserId="40" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) (85 USD) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds. (I have [read](http://techgage.com/news/breaking-the-wire-kx-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-now-available/) they feel similar as Cherry MX Blacks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot nor a non-compact version of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASog.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="17" RevisionGUID="7dd672e2-95e4-41e2-ab92-d2802900f6b6" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:08:26.373" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="9868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2595" RevisionGUID="f74ef046-e8bb-4c1c-9f98-f8d1f2217514" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:28:47.083" UserId="2370" Text="I would like advise on what specific HDMI switch I should buy.  Here I assume a special HDMI switch will solve my problem, but I could be wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. I'd like a switch with a minimum of 3 HDMI inputs, forwarding up to 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  2. I would like analogue audio of the active HDMI input sent to my stereo, accepting RCA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  3. I would like the HDMI switch to automatically select the active HDMI input.&#xD;&#xA;  4. Specifically I would like to have my TV show the output of my PlayStation when I turn it on.&#xD;&#xA;  5. Specifically I would also like to have my TV show the output of my ChromeCast when I start casting to it.&#xD;&#xA;  6. Specifically I *do not* want my TV to show ChromeCast's pause screen when my PlayStation is turned on!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last point is there because it's a point I'm concerned about.  How do automatic HDMI switches handle a continuous input signal when it's actually an idle signal? Do they select the most recently activated HDMI input if more are active? Is there a pause priority property in the HDMI specification that ChromeCast will use when idle - and if so, does it work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found [this][1] device which comes close to the above requirements, but I'm unsure about how it handles #6.  I was going to ask the manufacturer, but I'd still like some feedback from you guys first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope the above makes sense. Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ligawo.eu/audio-video-geraete/switch-umschalter/hdmi-switch-umschalter/ligawo-hdmi-switch-4x1-3d-4-fach-digital-toslink-spdif-klinke-audio/a-6518724/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9869" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2595" RevisionGUID="f74ef046-e8bb-4c1c-9f98-f8d1f2217514" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:28:47.083" UserId="2370" Text="Which automatic HDMI-switch with RCA audio-out will fit my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9870" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2595" RevisionGUID="f74ef046-e8bb-4c1c-9f98-f8d1f2217514" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:28:47.083" UserId="2370" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2596" RevisionGUID="4b69ca49-5ae5-4d97-ad3b-48446f788172" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:13:43.443" UserId="1366" Text="If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you two products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $200: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Linksys WRT1900ACS][1] - [$200 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router is really good when we are talking about Wi-Fi speed and stability. It's best choice in AC1900 routers in my opinion and best choice for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $300: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS RT-AC3100][3] - [$300 on newegg.com][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's actually one of the best if not the best dual band router on market. It has slightly better results than WRT1900ACS in 5 GHz speeds and additional features like WTFast and MU-MIMO. But it's also $100 more expensive so you have to think if you need sliglitly better performance and additional features for this price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RT-AC3100/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320242" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2596" RevisionGUID="e7f04780-6526-43a1-996a-dceb1cb2ee7b" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:59:04.660" UserId="1366" Comment="Added benchmark results." Text="If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you two products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $200: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Linksys WRT1900ACS][1] - [$200 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router is really good when we are talking about Wi-Fi speed and stability. It's best choice in AC1900 routers in my opinion and best choice for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $300: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS RT-AC3100][3] - [$300 on newegg.com][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's actually one of the best if not the best dual band router on market. It has slightly better results than WRT1900ACS in 5 GHz speeds and additional features like WTFast and MU-MIMO. But it's also $100 more expensive so you have to think if you need sliglitly better performance and additional features for this price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CNET][5] test of this routers Wi-Fi performance (results in Mbps short distance - 15 feet / long distance - 100 feet):&#xD;&#xA;[![5 GHz][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2.4 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RT-AC88U - **229/102 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA; - WRT1900ACS - **170/59 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RT-AC3100/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320242&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-rt-ac88u-router/2/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/xJ1g8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9873" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="a9af4524-fb42-47cd-97df-02a229251351" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:32:07.077" UserId="2367" Comment="added 191 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am looking for desktop motherboard which could handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x nvidia k4200 quadro (4 x PCIe x16, gen 3 if possible)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-4790&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x DDR3 slot &#xD;&#xA; - max. memory size 32 GB (at least)&#xD;&#xA; - ATX format (if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would use them for cuda calculations we need full PCIe bandwith.&#xD;&#xA;You can suggest other configuration which will cost not much to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I wanted to know how it is possible to handle 4 gpu with x16 with one cpu. Will it be better than 2 gpu &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2589" RevisionGUID="a9af4524-fb42-47cd-97df-02a229251351" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:32:07.077" UserId="2367" Comment="added 191 characters in body; edited title" Text="Motherboards which can handle 4 Gpu x16 Pcie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="940fe095-c4f9-4f55-ace3-ed692b30c40c" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:17:13.247" UserId="40" Comment="added 211 characters in body" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) (85 USD) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds. (I have [read](http://techgage.com/news/breaking-the-wire-kx-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-now-available/) they feel similar as Cherry MX Blacks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot nor a non-compact version of it. According to this [message from the Amazon seller](https://www.amazon.com/there-non-compact-version-this-keyboard/forum/Fx1Z9A9AGE3591Y/TxCG8PN08XYYCE), they don't have any non-compact version of this keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASog.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9882" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="8fdef256-c1b9-4e51-b229-d7fcdc8d47e8" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:50:15.687" UserId="40" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to the seller (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="7c95cd64-3422-4d22-81b3-352c1bef3e66" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:56:42.207" UserId="40" Comment="added 133 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to the seller (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9884" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="a2b58a2f-3622-4c92-ad98-6c28b18080eb" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:02:15.733" UserId="40" Comment="added 133 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2596" RevisionGUID="92d768b2-e611-4804-a7fc-96dd3531122c" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:46:03.013" UserId="1366" Comment="Split to two answers" Text="If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you this product:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $300: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS RT-AC3100][3] - [$300 on newegg.com][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's actually one of the best if not the best dual band router on market. It has slightly better results than WRT1900ACS in 5 GHz speeds and additional features like WTFast and MU-MIMO. But it's also $100 more expensive so you have to think if you need sliglitly better performance and additional features for this price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CNET][5] test of this routers Wi-Fi performance (results in Mbps short distance - 15 feet / long distance - 100 feet):&#xD;&#xA;[![5 GHz][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2.4 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RT-AC88U - **229/102 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RT-AC3100/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320242&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-rt-ac88u-router/2/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/xJ1g8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2599" RevisionGUID="b43a1448-0e47-472c-b83a-49aeb6f2b745" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:51:00.730" UserId="1366" Text="If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you this product:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $200:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Linksys WRT1900ACS][1] - [$200 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router is really good when we are talking about Wi-Fi speed and stability. It's best choice in AC1900 routers in my opinion and best choice for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CNET][3] test of this routers Wi-Fi performance (short distance - 15 feet / long distance - 100 feet): 5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**5 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - WRT1900ACS - **536/349 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2.4 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - WRT1900ACS - **170/59 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-rt-ac88u-router/2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2596" RevisionGUID="e273530c-3b1c-4f22-afa6-7f5ced4e6b3e" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:52:07.730" UserId="1366" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you this product:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best choice to $300: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS RT-AC3100][3] - [$300 on newegg.com][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's actually one of the best if not the best dual band router on market. It has slightly better results than WRT1900ACS in 5 GHz speeds and additional features like WTFast and MU-MIMO. But it's also $100 more expensive so you have to think if you need sliglitly better performance and additional features for this price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CNET][5] test of this routers Wi-Fi performance (short distance - 15 feet / long distance - 100 feet):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**5 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RT-AC88U - **644/345 Mbps** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2.4 GHz**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RT-AC88U - **229/102 Mbps**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RT-AC3100/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320242&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-rt-ac88u-router/2/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/xJ1g8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2600" RevisionGUID="ca331de2-bedf-49d1-8c5c-39446d22c20b" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:57:15.650" UserId="2382" Text="I'm thinking of adding a second Sapphire R9 390 to my computer to run in 2x crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/AerisFang/saved/#view=XwrFf7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power requirements of such an upgrade would technically be covered by my current PSU, but only by a very small margin.&#xD;&#xA;Also, my PSU only provides enough cables for a single GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be a good model to solve this problem?&#xD;&#xA;Also, as a related question: is this upgrade even worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2600" RevisionGUID="ca331de2-bedf-49d1-8c5c-39446d22c20b" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:57:15.650" UserId="2382" Text="Power supply upgrade for gaming computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9892" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2600" RevisionGUID="ca331de2-bedf-49d1-8c5c-39446d22c20b" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:57:15.650" UserId="2382" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2600" RevisionGUID="10fc55d0-9f77-45f9-b524-90705c0e1b32" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:08:08.597" UserId="2382" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking of adding a second Sapphire R9 390 to my computer to run in 2x crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/AerisFang/saved/#view=XwrFf7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power requirements of such an upgrade would technically be covered by my current PSU, but only by a very small margin.&#xD;&#xA;Also, my PSU only provides enough cables for a single GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What would be a good model to solve this problem?**&#xD;&#xA;Also, as a related question: is this upgrade even worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2600" RevisionGUID="11aff7ed-766b-4929-9e24-82f13f7a8ece" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:29:25.513" UserId="2382" Comment="Added parts list and more detailed requirements." Text="I'm thinking of adding a second Sapphire R9 390 to my computer to run in 2x crossfire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the parts I'm using:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel i5-6600k&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; -  MB: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; -  RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; -  Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD and Seagate Barracuda 2TB&#xD;&#xA;   3.5&quot; 7200RPM&#xD;&#xA; - Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:	Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro** &#xD;&#xA; - **PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power requirements of such an upgrade would technically be covered by my current PSU, but only by a very small margin.&#xD;&#xA;Also, my PSU only provides enough cables for a single GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The theoretical power draw is around 750W so I'm looking for something in the waters of 800-900W&#xD;&#xA;Fully modular and silent operation on idle are both big pluses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;High reliability is a must!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What would be a good model to solve this problem?**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="396f12cf-4186-4ad0-9851-8527bb424017" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:34:31.420" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="f44068b0-2cea-4b78-bc32-aec9985b3af4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:35:13.843" UserId="40" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="77268f18-be70-4329-a66c-7c98a46ca4a9" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:42:16.430" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="3ea65db5-163c-4b9f-a868-20670febb610" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:57:44.903" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="74eaeb75-f21e-491e-82ab-65ea30c9363c" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:05:50.650" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="d7f122fb-4067-437c-8b0b-9b5eba858511" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:11:21.930" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further information regarding o-rings, this [reddit page](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/modifications?v=5670fa22-e865-11e5-a071-0ed6015adaf1) is a gold mine. Amongst other things,  it points to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c9WOI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="49173476-3dd6-4a94-b767-2ab6e2dc4d75" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:21:11.390" UserId="40" Comment="added 884 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;- http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/products have a nice choice: &quot;Thin&quot; = 1.5mm || &quot;Thick&quot; = 2.5mm || &quot;XXL&quot; = 3.0mm. (material : Silicone; Hardness : 40A) (around 10 EUR)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further information regarding o-rings, this [reddit page](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/modifications?v=5670fa22-e865-11e5-a071-0ed6015adaf1) is a gold mine. Amongst other things,  it points to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c9WOI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9906" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="e04c9c93-c749-4bde-a893-d01d842bf025" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:28:47.230" UserId="40" Comment="added 112 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;- http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/products have a nice choice: &quot;Thin&quot; = 1.5mm || &quot;Thick&quot; = 2.5mm || &quot;XXL&quot; = 3.0mm. (material : Silicone; Hardness : 40A) (around 10 EUR)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further information regarding o-rings, this [reddit page](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/modifications?v=5670fa22-e865-11e5-a071-0ed6015adaf1) is a gold mine. Amongst other things,  it points to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding which thickness to choose, this [webpage](http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/heeeelp) gives a good summary. It simply depends on how the bottom of a keystroke is, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;vs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c9WOI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GwYR0.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/P2vz3.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="caf79b05-40c2-48cf-9468-72378fbc1bbf" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:10:39.773" UserId="1366" Text="I'm looking for the best TV (in this price) which I will use to playing on PlayStation 4 and watching movies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price: **~$800**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: **~50&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: **FHD** (4K to expensive ?)&#xD;&#xA; - **Wi-Fi**&#xD;&#xA; - SmartTV: **Yes** (it can be any WebOS, Android, etc. but it has to run my DLNA server which is Mezzmo)&#xD;&#xA; - Refresh rate: **good for gaming and movies** (120 Hz should be enough ?)&#xD;&#xA; - Input lag: **good for gaming and movies** (40-50 ms will it be ok ?)&#xD;&#xA; - VESA mount: **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Additional data:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Room size: **25 square meters**&#xD;&#xA; - Distance from TV: **2.5 meters**&#xD;&#xA; - Room light: **really sunny room**&#xD;&#xA; - Watching direction: **mostly from the front**, occasionally 45 degrees when I will invite guests&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not important:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My ideas:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Sony KDL-50W755C][1] - [specification][2] - ~$780 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA; - [LG-50LF652V][3] - $660 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA; - [Philips 50PFH6550/88][4] - $780 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/KDL-50W755C&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/content/cnt-specs/KDL-50W755C/list&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.lg.com/uk/tvs/lg-50LF652V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://icecat.us/us/p/philips/50pfh6550-88/led-tvs-8718863002049-50PFH6550-27120931.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="caf79b05-40c2-48cf-9468-72378fbc1bbf" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:10:39.773" UserId="1366" Text="TV 50″ - PS4/movies (~$800)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="caf79b05-40c2-48cf-9468-72378fbc1bbf" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:10:39.773" UserId="1366" Text="&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="362fd9a1-f7bf-42ac-b94e-f1a3f0b58a1c" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:39:37.793" UserId="1366" Comment="Added tag. Grammar correction." Text="I'm looking for the best TV (in this price) which I will use for playing on PlayStation 4 and watching movies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price: **~$800**&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: **~50&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: **FHD** (4K to expensive ?)&#xD;&#xA; - **Wi-Fi**&#xD;&#xA; - SmartTV: **Yes** (it can be any WebOS, Android, etc. but it has to run my DLNA server which is Mezzmo)&#xD;&#xA; - Refresh rate: **good for gaming and movies** (120 Hz should be enough ?)&#xD;&#xA; - Input lag: **good for gaming and movies** (40-50 ms will it be ok ?)&#xD;&#xA; - VESA mount: **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Additional data:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Room size: **25 square meters**&#xD;&#xA; - Distance from TV: **2.5 meters**&#xD;&#xA; - Room light: **really sunny room**&#xD;&#xA; - Watching direction: **mostly from the front**, occasionally 45 degrees when I will invite guests&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not important:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My ideas:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Sony KDL-50W755C][1] - [specification][2] - ~$780 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA; - [LG-50LF652V][3] - $660 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA; - [Philips 50PFH6550/88][4] - $780 (in my country)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/KDL-50W755C&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/content/cnt-specs/KDL-50W755C/list&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.lg.com/uk/tvs/lg-50LF652V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://icecat.us/us/p/philips/50pfh6550-88/led-tvs-8718863002049-50PFH6550-27120931.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="362fd9a1-f7bf-42ac-b94e-f1a3f0b58a1c" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:39:37.793" UserId="1366" Comment="Added tag. Grammar correction." Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2604" RevisionGUID="62dad0a6-1385-4565-979f-f719161c8f12" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:18:43.097" UserId="1246" Text="I have a [P-FD128TBOP-GE](https://www.pny.com/turbo-3-0-usb-flash-drive?sku=P-FD128TBOP-GE) and it's generally good, except:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's shown signs of corruption on a few occasions (but that seems to have stopped...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's too big/a little uncomfortable in my pocket!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it's 128 GiB, achieves a ~100 MB/s sequential write speed *in practice* (not just benchmarks!), and is capless (good, because that means I don't have to worry about losing the cap).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any flash drive that satisfies these conditions while also being noticeably smaller, ideally like one of those &quot;nano&quot;-sized ones? **Note:** I want something that won't easily break off a keychain.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm specifically looking for fast write speeds; for me that's at least ~80 MB/s. If it has other good properties I might be a bit flexible here and go down to like 60 MB/s, it depends, but generally I want at least 80 MB/s." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2604" RevisionGUID="62dad0a6-1385-4565-979f-f719161c8f12" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:18:43.097" UserId="1246" Text="Small and fast (and preferably capless) flash drive (&gt; ~80 MB/s write)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2604" RevisionGUID="62dad0a6-1385-4565-979f-f719161c8f12" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:18:43.097" UserId="1246" Text="&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2605" RevisionGUID="a6fa9c4c-45dd-45a9-8908-daaa2a94d069" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:45:11.103" UserId="1366" Text="If you are looking for the best performance not looking at price of the PSU I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2][1]** - [$220 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10 year warranty&#xD;&#xA; - 80 PLUS Titanium certifed&#xD;&#xA; - semi passive - zero noise &lt; 45°C&#xD;&#xA; - avarage efficiency (230V) - 94,2 % according to [tomshardware.com review][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438064&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink3945mb40035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-850-t2-power-supply,4490-5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2606" RevisionGUID="9d0df03b-d14d-4459-9fac-0c72a3c7218b" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:50:05.363" UserId="1366" Text="If you are looking for the best choice for paid money I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2][1]** - [$160 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10 year warranty&#xD;&#xA; - 80 PLUS Platinum certifed&#xD;&#xA; - semi passive&#xD;&#xA; - avarage efficiency (230V) - 92,48 % according to [tomshardware.com review][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438056&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink39bbf9v0035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-850-p2-power-supply,4454-5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2608" RevisionGUID="8fb8af68-4b2f-4d37-857e-25915c73ba41" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:26:38.387" UserId="2080" Text="I need to connect the display of my MacBook Pro to my Dell 22N700 (22 inch) monitor, wirelessly. Currently I use an HDMI cable. Please suggest. It would be great if that device works with Windows 10 as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9927" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2608" RevisionGUID="8fb8af68-4b2f-4d37-857e-25915c73ba41" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:26:38.387" UserId="2080" Text="Wireless HDMI to connect Macbook Pro with Dell 22N700 monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2608" RevisionGUID="8fb8af68-4b2f-4d37-857e-25915c73ba41" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:26:38.387" UserId="2080" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2610" RevisionGUID="ecc914cf-b540-4d1c-aba8-9244edb0d073" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:38:44.300" UserId="1366" Text="**Apple TV** - [$74.50 on newegg.com][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can stream your display to your monitor connected to Apple TV (through HDMI) using **[AirPlay][2]**. It's only compatiable with Apple devices, no Windows compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4A02UV1201&amp;cm_re=apple_tv-_-1J8-000T-00001-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AirPlay" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2611" RevisionGUID="ec84a1d4-5c22-4e2e-80b3-eb6e0db68c76" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:41:27.827" UserId="1885" Text="The only way you get wireless display capability from an Apple device is via [AirPlay][1], which requires a 2nd Generation or later [Apple TV][2] and OSX 10.8 or later. The actual connection between the Apple TV and the output device will be HDMI. Who makes the display doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201343&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.apple.com/shop/buy-tv/apple-tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="7fec3e27-8a11-490f-a110-33fd9ed142d4" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:57:02.730" UserId="57" Comment="adds note that it can be non-mechanical" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2560" RevisionGUID="c732a335-2314-40ef-88e5-af32330a3ba6" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:00:03.657" UserId="57" Comment="pulled budget comment into question" Text="Is there any commercially available USB drive (memory stick) that will automatically encrypt any file(s) copied to the drive, without needing to install or execute special software on the connected computer, except for a possible first-time setup (to choose the password, etc.)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [Datalocker Sentry](http://1ki81d1v1rcab28b4kxlvaxg.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Sentry-User-Manual.pdf) device supports auto-encryption, but only after executing a program stored on the stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device which can be connected to an industrial system with an embedded operating system (Windows CE), and encrypt files transferred to the memory stick through a standard feature of the system, without requring any modification of the system. The person initiating the transfer should not be able to read/decrypt the files on the USB device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I will list below some USB-compatible storage devices featuring encryption that I have found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech S2510BU3PW 2.5in USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive Enclosure with Touchpad AES Encryption][1]. Actually a hard drive enclosure (separate hard drive needed), but could possibly be used in place of a memory stick? From the documentation I couldn't tell if you need to input the password to write to the disk.&#xD;&#xA; - [Lok-it secure flash drive][2]: Device must be unlocked with PIN before use. Thus not possible to write to the device without also being able to read from the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Aegis Secure Key and Aegis Padlock][3]: Appears to work the samme way as Lok-It. Has read-only mode but not write-only mode.&#xD;&#xA; - [Iron Key][4]: Similiar to the above. Audit trail generation might be possible using add-on Access Enterprise Server (likely expensive)?&#xD;&#xA; - [Gold Key][5]: Similiar as above. Drive must be unlocked through an on-screen prompt before use.&#xD;&#xA; - [Corsair Flash Padlock][6]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston Data Traveller][7]: Similiar as above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: A device with the possibility of generating a full audit trail of all file transfers might be an acceptable alternative. For example, the Datalocker Sentry and certain Kingston Data Traveller models seem to be compatible with [&quot;SafeConsole&quot;][8] software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not in charge of or have any direct say over budget, but I imagine I should be able to justify an expense of $500-$1000, if we can avoid more complex data handling procedures/equipment to reduce the risk of data loss or tampering. Alternative solutions or the cost of inadequate data integrity might easily come to more than this sum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/USB-3-Encrypted-Hard-Drive-Enclosure~S2510BU3PW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lok-it.co.uk/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apricorn.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ironkey.com/en-US/encrypted-storage-drives/f100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.goldkey.com/products/encrypted-flash-drive.php&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/usb-drives/flash-padlock&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kingston.com/us/usb/encrypted_security/dt2000&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://safeconsole.com/managed-secure-usb-drives/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2612" RevisionGUID="deed7095-ed45-4b3e-ad15-8c7fa3af6476" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:34:19.943" UserId="60" Text="I am going to recommend the [Corsair HXi HX850i CP-9020073-NA 850W](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hxi-series-hx850i-high-performance-atx-power-supply-850-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-psu). This is a fully modular 850 Watt power supply that is 80 PLUS Platinum certified. It has a built in fan, but it doesn't even turn on until the load reaches around 350 Watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This unit comes with a handful of unique features, like the fan test button. With this, you can test the operation of the fan even before installing the PSU into your case. The unit also has a mini USB port that you can either plug directly into the motherboard (included cable) or into a USB port on the back of the computer. With this, you can monitor performance and adjustment of fan speed and multi-rail/single rail mode. I do not remember seeing a driver disk in the box, but it is easily downloadable by following this [link](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads), selecting &quot;Corsair Link&quot;, and selecting the most recent file at the top. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair also has a 1000 and 1200 Watt version of the same PSU, so if you want a bit more breathing room, you have options. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2612" RevisionGUID="47dc0e6d-08ad-4c84-9aa4-35354d8dc225" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:43:16.367" UserId="60" Comment="Add pricing to answer." Text="I am going to recommend the [Corsair HXi HX850i CP-9020073-NA 850W](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hxi-series-hx850i-high-performance-atx-power-supply-850-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-psu). This is a fully modular 850 Watt power supply that is 80 PLUS Platinum certified. It has a built in fan, but it doesn't even turn on until the load reaches around 350 Watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This unit comes with a handful of unique features, like the fan test button. With this, you can test the operation of the fan even before installing the PSU into your case. The unit also has a mini USB port that you can either plug directly into the motherboard (included cable) or into a USB port on the back of the computer. With this, you can monitor performance and adjustment of fan speed and multi-rail/single rail mode. I do not remember seeing a driver disk in the box, but it is easily downloadable by following this [link](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads), selecting &quot;Corsair Link&quot;, and selecting the most recent file at the top. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair lists the 850 Watt unit at $199.99 (USD) not on sale, but if you shop around, you can find a lower price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair also has a 1000 and 1200 Watt version of the same PSU, so if you want a bit more breathing room, you have options. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2605" RevisionGUID="bb4ab5f8-501c-4562-a1be-7a228812eb9e" CreationDate="2016-04-28T18:56:26.160" UserId="1366" Comment="added 815 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for the best performance not looking at price of the PSU I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2][1]** - [$220 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Description:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no price limit the best avaliable PSU's have **Titanium certificate** like SuperNova T2. It was made on SuperFlower components so it guarantees high quality of components. It is **passive** until load around **500W**. It has avarage efficiency on low loads around **88.7 %** and on normal loads avarage efficiency is **94%**. EVGA also comes with **10 years warranty** what is really good offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Titanium certified&#xD;&#xA; - semi-passive - quiet until ~500W load&#xD;&#xA; - top end efficiency &#xD;&#xA; - 10 years warranty&#xD;&#xA; - fully modular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is top end PSU made on components from SuperFlower with higest performance among 850W PSU's. If you are looking for hardware and not looking at price you should think about buying this product. If you want to buy PSU which will work also good with your setup and will be cheaper (but not so quiet and with worse efficiency) I would recommend my [other answer][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438064&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink3945mb40035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2606/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2605" RevisionGUID="94b09681-f1ab-4b0b-b2ef-5d541d063c09" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:02:04.657" UserId="1366" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="If you are looking for the best performance not looking at price of the PSU I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2][1]** - [$220 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Description:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no price limit the best avaliable PSU's have **Titanium certificate** like SuperNova T2. It was made on Super Flower platform so it guarantees high quality of components. It is **passive** until load around **500W**. It has avarage efficiency on low loads around **88.7 %** and on normal loads avarage efficiency is **94%**. EVGA also comes with **10 years warranty** what is really good offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Titanium certified&#xD;&#xA; - semi-passive - quiet until ~500W load&#xD;&#xA; - top end efficiency &#xD;&#xA; - 10 years warranty&#xD;&#xA; - fully modular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is top end PSU made on components from SuperFlower with higest performance among 850W PSU's. If you are looking for hardware and not looking at price you should think about buying this product. If you want to buy PSU which will work also good with your setup and will be cheaper (but not so quiet and with worse efficiency) I would recommend my [other answer][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438064&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink3945mb40035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2606/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9948" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2606" RevisionGUID="281f759a-906c-4847-a9e7-0bbd8ef9913c" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:09:43.640" UserId="1366" Comment="added 802 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for the best choice for paid money I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2][1]** - [$160 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Description:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This PSU has **Platinum certificate** and it was made on Super Flower platform so it guarantees high quality of components. It is **passive** until load around **340W**. It has avarage efficiency on low loads around **84.2 %** and on normal loads avarage efficiency is **92.5%**. EVGA also comes with **10 years warranty** what is really good offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Platinum certified&#xD;&#xA; - semi-passive - quiet until ~340W load&#xD;&#xA; - really good efficiency results on low and normal loads&#xD;&#xA; - 10 years warranty&#xD;&#xA; - fully modular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is really good PSU made on components from SuperFlower. If you are looking for best efficiency for spend dollar you should think about this PSU. It will work good with your setup and stay quiet when PC is idle or it is under small load. If it's not enough for you should think about Titanium EVGA PSU which I described in my [other answer][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438056&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink39bbf9v0035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2605/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2614" RevisionGUID="994955fe-2eb3-4362-9808-16cc504051c4" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:10:32.727" UserId="1366" Text="After no response I bought **NZXT GRID+V2** and I can easily recommend this hardware to anyone looking for internal fan controller with many features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Setup:**&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I installed it in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX with one 200 mm intake fan and three 140 mm exaust fans. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[![setup1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![setup2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is connected to motherboard through USB connector and to PSU (12V) with Molex 4-Pin connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CAM Software:**&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is dedicated software for this fan controller which allows not only controling fans but also gives many options of monitoring hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **fan controller** (it allows to customize curve of each fan speed according to GPU or CPU temprature)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![fancontroller][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **system monitor** (CPU,GPU,RAM,HDD,SSD,MOBO,NET)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![monitor1][4]][4] &#xD;&#xA;[![monitor2][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **FPS overlay** (allow to put and customize overlay with FPS, CPU temprature and load, GPU temprature and load and other visible on screen)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![overlay1][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;[![overlay2][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I paid for NZXT GRID+ V2 **$40** and I think it's absolutly worth this price. **It is not only fan controller** it is also really good system monitor and fps overlay. I can recommend it to anyone looking for internal fan controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iCHef.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gDT9g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Tklck.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/T3CA3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/2H4l9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/x21nB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vBxPz.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="ea4560e1-1eae-404e-855f-afb3b50f170e" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:52:12.063" UserId="40" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) (85 USD) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds. (I have [read](http://techgage.com/news/breaking-the-wire-kx-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-now-available/) they feel similar as Cherry MX Blacks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot nor a non-compact version of it. According to this [message from the Amazon seller](https://www.amazon.com/there-non-compact-version-this-keyboard/forum/Fx1Z9A9AGE3591Y/TxCG8PN08XYYCE), they don't have any non-compact version of this keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Amazon seller also sent me this table summarizing the properties of the Rapoo key switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASog.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOy.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VHYEq.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="e061e748-7263-42a8-9b2f-3c09a3bb30ca" CreationDate="2016-04-29T03:34:50.177" UserId="40" Comment="added 280 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick, 50A (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;- http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/products have a nice choice: &quot;Thin&quot; = 1.5mm || &quot;Thick&quot; = 2.5mm || &quot;XXL&quot; = 3.0mm. (material : Silicone; Hardness : 40A) (around 10 EUR, ships from France)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further information regarding o-rings, this [reddit page](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/modifications?v=5670fa22-e865-11e5-a071-0ed6015adaf1) is a gold mine. Amongst other things,  it points to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding which thickness to choose, this [webpage](http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/heeeelp) gives a good summary. Also, there is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [deskthority - What is the best size for me to use and what hardness would you suggest?](https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/o-ring-modification-t2219.html#p39838)&#xD;&#xA;-  [reddit - What o-rings should I buy?](https://redd.it/2v9zyu)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It simply depends on how the bottom of a keystroke is, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;vs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0s.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c9WOI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GwYR0.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/P2vz3.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2610" RevisionGUID="5f457815-5d8d-45d2-9fe1-60bbfb37a259" CreationDate="2016-04-29T06:57:46.927" UserId="1366" Comment="added 677 characters in body" Text="**Apple TV** - [$74.50 on newegg.com][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can stream your display to your monitor connected to Apple TV (through HDMI) using **[AirPlay][2]** for Apple devices with OS X 10.8 or newer. Or you can use **AirParrot 2** software to connect it to your older Mac or Windows PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. According to [this apple site][3] if your MacBook Pro is from **early 2011 or newer**. You will need only Apple TV media player 2nd generation or newer. [Here][4] is really good tutorial how to connect your Mac to Apple TV.&#xD;&#xA; 2. If your MacBook Pro is older than **early 2011** or you need mirroring from Windows PC you will also need [AirParrot 2 software][5] it costs **$13**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4A02UV1201&amp;cm_re=apple_tv-_-1J8-000T-00001-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AirPlay&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201343&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://computers.tutsplus.com/tutorials/airplay-on-the-mac-the-definitive-guide--mac-31704&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.airsquirrels.com/airparrot/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9958" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2616" RevisionGUID="598f64dd-828e-4da4-9c29-6cb090f0a14b" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:23:16.457" UserId="2395" Text="I am looking for a managed switch, which can show the current status of the ports (Up/down, speed, duplex if possible). If it's possible &lt; 50 €  and 8 ports would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably, but not strictly required, the MAC table associated to that port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice if the status could be read easily, if it's a web interface it should do, scraping the status may not be the best, but should do. Telnet/SSH would presumably be better, but I don't know if there are products in that price range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9959" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2616" RevisionGUID="598f64dd-828e-4da4-9c29-6cb090f0a14b" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:23:16.457" UserId="2395" Text="Managed (&quot;Smart&quot;) switch with port status" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9960" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2616" RevisionGUID="598f64dd-828e-4da4-9c29-6cb090f0a14b" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:23:16.457" UserId="2395" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2618" RevisionGUID="592f3f7c-1bbd-486a-900a-b808a2cc4ed8" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:53:16.103" UserId="273" Text="I was recently recommended a set of smart cards that don't feature key backup methods. However they do have a way to import plaintext keys, meaning a key ceremony is the way to go for key redundancy. &#xA;&#xA;This yields very special requirements for a laptop being used for this ceremony for which I'd like to ask for a recommendation.&#xA;&#xA;Requirements:&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must feature a removable battery&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must feature a removable drive&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xA; &#xA; - Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2618" RevisionGUID="592f3f7c-1bbd-486a-900a-b808a2cc4ed8" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:53:16.103" UserId="273" Text="Laptop for key ceremony?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2618" RevisionGUID="592f3f7c-1bbd-486a-900a-b808a2cc4ed8" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:53:16.103" UserId="273" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2619" RevisionGUID="583c3925-8fe0-4f60-8fc9-98dd186963b3" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:54:58.193" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a Cherry MX Switch Tester that contains an MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed). It should be below 50 USD. (otherwise I'll just purchase the entire keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the Cherry MX Switch Testers I have found so far does not contain an MX Silver. Examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[WASD Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4) (16 USD) contains:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 6 Different Cherry MX Switches: Cherry MX Green, Cherry MX Clear, Cherry MX Red, Cherry MX Black, Cherry MX Brown, and Cherry MX Blue&#xD;&#xA;- 6 of each type of sound dampening O-rings: Red 40A-L and Blue 40A-R&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Pro Sampler Tester Kit](http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4)  (22 USD) contains:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Red(1), MX Black(1), MX Blue(1), MX Brown(1), MX Green(1), MX Gray(1), MX Clear(1), MX White(1)]&#xD;&#xA;- Sound dampening 50A (0.4mm reduction) rubber o-ring (Qty: 8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/r3B0h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sqNEp.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HmQge.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9971" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2619" RevisionGUID="583c3925-8fe0-4f60-8fc9-98dd186963b3" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:54:58.193" UserId="40" Text="Cherry MX Switch Tester with MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9972" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2619" RevisionGUID="583c3925-8fe0-4f60-8fc9-98dd186963b3" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:54:58.193" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2620" RevisionGUID="aa4d7003-f990-481e-90c5-a468ae85d0ce" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:21:44.673" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for electromagnetic field reader as demonstrated in the [this documentary][1] (shown below):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![screenshot of EMF reader from Water Memory documentary 2014][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or some similar device which can do the same (measure EMF fingerprint of the placed object).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8VyUsVOic0&amp;t=816&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8xO7s.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2620" RevisionGUID="aa4d7003-f990-481e-90c5-a468ae85d0ce" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:21:44.673" UserId="15" Text="EMF reader for USB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2620" RevisionGUID="aa4d7003-f990-481e-90c5-a468ae85d0ce" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:21:44.673" UserId="15" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2621" RevisionGUID="b0ad9c67-adc1-4f3b-9857-595a2106edeb" CreationDate="2016-04-30T00:50:24.790" UserId="531" Text="I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems [which support opensource firmware][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial. On this list, the T60/T61s look handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets go down your list. I have an R61, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, [thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, its an old machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt;Must feature a removable battery  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Two latches and it pops out&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a [video][3] here on the process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must feature a removable drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R61's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I *strongly* recommend maxing out the ram if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *solid* machines, and despite their age hold up well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.coreboot.org/Supported_Motherboards&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T61&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="6424a378-5b87-44f5-bfb2-e0b7ce9f6f30" CreationDate="2016-04-30T01:50:34.720" UserId="40" Comment="added 323 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10][![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2622" RevisionGUID="08e4b552-fd93-452f-ac71-f50fae28139c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:16:07.037" UserId="40" Text="There exist several [Cherry MX Switch Testers](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2619/40). I am looking for a Topre Switch tester.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should contain the same key switches as the ones used in [Topre Realforce](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce). The price should be cheaper than buying the full keyboard. I do not mind about shipping constraints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have only found this [Switch Tester](https://www.massdrop.com/buy/cooler-master-switch-testerv2), which contains only one Topre Novatouch switch (and 5 Cherry MX: Black, Red, Brown, Blue, and Green switches). I would like more Topre switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9t0yy.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2622" RevisionGUID="08e4b552-fd93-452f-ac71-f50fae28139c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:16:07.037" UserId="40" Text="Topre Switch tester" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2622" RevisionGUID="08e4b552-fd93-452f-ac71-f50fae28139c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:16:07.037" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9985" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2621" RevisionGUID="cf69a00a-de82-469c-97c8-43b0cf6e29d2" CreationDate="2016-04-30T04:30:28.967" UserId="531" Comment="added 344 characters in body" Text="I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems [which support opensource firmware][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial. On this list, the T60/T61s look handy. *many* of these features are found on newer thinkpads, but its worth considering some of the modern, boneheaded moves lenovo has made. I'd consider the x220 my pick if you considered 'easy' open firmware options. The newer ones have worse keyboards, and of course, you need to find a superfish free version. Go with intel graphics in any case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets go down your list. I have an R61, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, [thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, its an old machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt;Must feature a removable battery  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Two latches and it pops out&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a [video][3] here on the process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must feature a removable drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R61's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I *strongly* recommend maxing out the ram if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *solid* machines, and despite their age hold up well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.coreboot.org/Supported_Motherboards&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T61&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9986" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2623" RevisionGUID="9608e99f-efd7-418c-a4ef-506f849f4c05" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:40:34.643" UserId="352" Text="I just can't get used to smartphones without a physical keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple years ago I obtained *Sony Xperia Mini Pro*, which at the time was the last slider phone released. I'm still using it, but it's getting really old now, the internal storage insufficient for updates of essential apps despite moving everything I could move to SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't really follow the phone market ever since, and all I know all the *flagship* phones are just touchscreen, no physical keyboard nowadays. But I don't know if someone didn't attempt a &quot;revival&quot;, &quot;niche market&quot; or such releases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any newer, better smartphone on market, in the slider form factor - newer, better than Xperia Mini Pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9987" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2623" RevisionGUID="9608e99f-efd7-418c-a4ef-506f849f4c05" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:40:34.643" UserId="352" Text="Is there any more modern slider form factor smartphone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9988" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2623" RevisionGUID="9608e99f-efd7-418c-a4ef-506f849f4c05" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:40:34.643" UserId="352" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9990" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2529" RevisionGUID="53d2d1e1-f364-44c8-b5aa-8a9304abc7ab" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:57:11.793" UserId="155" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="For questions about programmable logic controllers typically used to aid in industrial processes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2624" RevisionGUID="60f2daf5-413c-4770-a5d6-99e73afacff1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:01:05.993" UserId="352" Text="Look at [Mikrotik](http://www.mikrotik.com/) routers based on RouterBoard hardware and RouterOS software. The prices are competitive even with *dumb* switches, reconfiguring the router to act as a switch is perfectly normal (our firm uses them instead of standard switches on regular basis), they are quite robust, and it allows quite in-depth monitoring and control of the network, including per-port basis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only serious disadvantage is that the interface is not really intuitive and definitely takes some serious reading of the documentation, even for relatively simple tasks (like aforementioned reconfiguring as a switch). You can easily get lost in the countless features and miss the one you're looking for - the feature-richness may be a bit overwhelming even to a professional." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9992" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2625" RevisionGUID="ac61cb74-e6ac-4cd3-89c7-63f801ee0f19" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:03:27.587" UserId="531" Text="Practically the only android phone I can think of that's got a keyboard these days is a *blackberry*. Specifically the [priv][1]. It runs newer versions (6.0 is coming soon(, and flagship specs - it runs a  Qualcomm 8992 Snapdragon 808 Hexa-Core. Not the latest and greatest but reasonably solid, 3gb ram, and seems to have some privacy centric addons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/specifications.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aOoE6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/azn2j.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9993" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2626" RevisionGUID="62bd6e56-1c10-4e17-9b8a-b60a1eaad1f7" CreationDate="2016-04-30T08:35:53.613" UserId="964" Text="My HP Photosmart B110a worked fine the first couple of times I refilled the cartridges. Now it has given up with an error.&#xA;&#xA;Is there a printer on the market which will accept refilled cartridges?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9994" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2626" RevisionGUID="62bd6e56-1c10-4e17-9b8a-b60a1eaad1f7" CreationDate="2016-04-30T08:35:53.613" UserId="964" Text="A printer that doesn't protest refilled cartridges?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9995" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2626" RevisionGUID="62bd6e56-1c10-4e17-9b8a-b60a1eaad1f7" CreationDate="2016-04-30T08:35:53.613" UserId="964" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2627" RevisionGUID="b18ae061-b46a-486a-a0cf-67a639cbc815" CreationDate="2016-04-30T09:13:38.927" UserId="531" Text="Epson has a line of printers *specifically* designed to be refilled - called the ecotank/supertank line - they're a bit pricier than 'regular' printers (which are absurdly cheap cause they're selling you the ink at a markup) but they are essentially CIS printers with external ink tanks. Since you arn't popping out a tank designed to slowly drip ink, its a lot neater, and it dosen't have the abitrary pages per cart count most printers would have. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bunch of models - the [l310][1] seems to be the basic model but the [US seems to have a different lineup][2] with all of them being all in ones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.epson.eu/ix/en/viewcon/corporatesite/products/mainunits/overview/15802&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Landing/ecotank-super-tank-printers.do" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2621" RevisionGUID="11fc1a7e-72f2-4cf6-8cab-6a26c727bac8" CreationDate="2016-04-30T09:33:05.383" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 83 characters in body" Text="I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems [which support opensource firmware][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial. On this list, the T60 look handy. *many* of these features are found on newer thinkpads, but its worth considering some of the modern, boneheaded moves lenovo has made. The newer ones have worse keyboards, and of course, you need to find a superfish free version. Go with intel graphics in any case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets go down your list. I have an R61, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, [thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, its an old machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt;Must feature a removable battery  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Two latches and it pops out&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a [video][3] here on the process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must feature a removable drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R61's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I *strongly* recommend maxing out the ram if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *solid* machines, and despite their age hold up well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.coreboot.org/Supported_Motherboards&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T61&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9998" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2621" RevisionGUID="7d3eea47-7aaf-479c-b0a4-fbd4ba7bad26" CreationDate="2016-04-30T10:00:56.027" UserId="531" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.&#xD;&#xA;As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems which support opensource firmware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial.On this list, the T60 look handy. *many* of these features are found on newer thinkpads, but its worth considering some of the modern, boneheaded moves lenovo has made. The newer ones have worse keyboards, and of course, you need to find a superfish free version. Go with intel graphics in any case. Further research shows that &quot;Ministry of Freedom&quot; sells somewhat newer models than my initial recommendation of a T60 *preflashed* and [those are worth a look][1]. That said, the features I like about the T60 are true here too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets go down your list. I have an R61, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, [thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features][2].&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, its an older machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt;Must feature a removable battery  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Two latches and it pops out&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a [video][3] here on the process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must feature a removable drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R61's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I *strongly* recommend maxing out the ram if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *solid* machines, and despite their age hold up well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://minifree.org/product-category/laptops/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T61&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10005" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2630" RevisionGUID="fb5bb313-3c70-49c5-8ad9-bf1fa2f81752" CreationDate="2016-04-30T12:49:54.563" UserId="2402" Text="Corsair CMFSL3X2-128GB 128GB Voyager is one I use myslef, it's an extremely compact design, 128gb and has 90mb/s write speed, which seems to fit your specifications, however, I'm not sure about how strong the key ring attachment is, I've had this for three years now and I've had no issues so far, so I guess unless you are handling it roughly, I don't see why it could break." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2631" RevisionGUID="ab262c57-3cf2-483b-ab33-0160e85d858c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T19:43:59.957" UserId="47" Text="I have a computer from 2001 whose power supply probably needs to be replaced soon (the fan sometimes makes noises).  It is currently using a 10-year old FSP400-60PFN 400 watt PSU.  Power supplies from that era output the vast majority of their power on the 3.3V and 5V rails.  As you can see from the [FSP400-60PFN specs][1], it could output 235W combined on the 3.3V and 5V rails.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems modern power supplies output the vast majority of their power on the 12V rail.  One modern [430W PSU][2] only outputs 120W combined on the 3.3V and 5V rails.  Even a [1600W PSU][3] still only outputs 120W combined on the 3.3V and 5V rails.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could try to get a used 2001-era power supply, but I'm not sure how reliable it would be since it may suffer from the &quot;[capacitor plague][4]&quot; problem of that era.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any modern power supplies that output the vast majority of their power on the 3.3V and 5V rails?  It'd be nice if it had [Molex][5] connectors too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.imgur.com/96pDpKM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://static.evga.com/Products/App_Themes/Images/ProductOverview/100-W1-0430.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://static.evga.com/Products/App_Themes/Images/ProductOverview/220-T2-1600.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/31/Molex_female_connector.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10009" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2631" RevisionGUID="ab262c57-3cf2-483b-ab33-0160e85d858c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T19:43:59.957" UserId="47" Text="Are there any power supplies that can be used with a 2001-era computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10010" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2631" RevisionGUID="ab262c57-3cf2-483b-ab33-0160e85d858c" CreationDate="2016-04-30T19:43:59.957" UserId="47" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10011" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2626" RevisionGUID="601f8c7d-f479-470b-92d5-805083e426e6" CreationDate="2016-04-30T20:49:38.270" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="27613585-d84b-4605-b605-53ebf8e68b5b" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:03:51.847" UserId="40" Comment="added 215 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more comparisons from http://www.pcper.com/reviews/General-Tech/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Explained-and-Compared:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11][![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jYKH8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="99f42ba7-ba07-4405-b9b5-1ab08afa6979" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:12:42.160" UserId="40" Comment="add Romer-G Mechanical Switches" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more comparisons from http://www.pcper.com/reviews/General-Tech/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Explained-and-Compared:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11][![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Romer-G Mechanical Switches have a lower operating point (1.5 mm) and key travel (3 mm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are present in the [Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (920-006385)](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-920-006385/dp/B00N3OELPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the following graph, the blue curve is a Romer-G Mechanical Switch, the white curve of is a typical mechanical switch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][16]][16]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jYKH8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hXI5P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10014" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="da4bfbe4-9215-43c4-a7ce-5e1e6fe2ab6b" CreationDate="2016-05-01T00:06:40.113" UserId="40" Comment="add Tesoro’s Low-Profile 'Agile' Switches" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more comparisons from http://www.pcper.com/reviews/General-Tech/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Explained-and-Compared:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11][![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Romer-G Mechanical Switches have a lower operating point (1.5 mm) and key travel (3 mm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are present in the [Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (920-006385)](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-920-006385/dp/B00N3OELPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the following graph, the blue curve is a Romer-G Mechanical Switch, the white curve of is a typical mechanical switch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newly released (June 2016) Tesoro’s Low-Profile 'Agile' Switches are quite interesting: the full travel of the switches is 3.5 mm. Unfortunately, they haven't announced the actuation force nor the operation point. [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIA8Yf9DE1w)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][16]][16]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][17]][17]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhh.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jYKH8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hXI5P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WXCJw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9z.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2632" RevisionGUID="ecf9353d-f301-4b80-b6a2-5777c5cd7ff3" CreationDate="2016-05-01T00:07:13.220" UserId="531" Text="I'm finding this hilarious. The pseudoscience is stunning. That device is a pretty standard microphone that was used for attaching to a landline. The proper name escapes me (I'll update) but you can find it as a telephone suction cup [microphone][1] for between 5-20 dollars on amazon. I am unable to identify the *sound card* he is using for the capture, and the software he's using seems to be [wavelab][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note those things are good fun, and he might be picking up sound off of his power lead. I'm unsure what the seemingly quarter inch connector is leading off of the sound device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Telephone-Microphone-Suction-Cup-Pickup/dp/B0034I75IK/ref=pd_sim_229_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41VKjYK7ZsL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1Z180GGHCFD7RHCSAPEH&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.steinberg.net/en/products/wavelab/start.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2632" RevisionGUID="1036d1fa-73bb-4870-80ed-cd530e4530df" CreationDate="2016-05-01T04:58:47.160" UserId="531" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I'm finding this hilarious. The pseudoscience is stunning. That device is a pretty standard microphone that was used for attaching to a landline. The proper name escapes me (I'll update) but you can find it as a telephone suction cup [microphone][1] for between 5-20 dollars on amazon. I am unable to identify the *sound card* he is using for the capture, and the software he's using seems to be [wavelab][2]. Any good soundcard should work for this I suspect&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note those things are good fun, and he might be picking up sound off of his power lead. I'm unsure what the seemingly quarter inch connector is leading off of the sound device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Telephone-Microphone-Suction-Cup-Pickup/dp/B0034I75IK/ref=pd_sim_229_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41VKjYK7ZsL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1Z180GGHCFD7RHCSAPEH&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.steinberg.net/en/products/wavelab/start.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10019" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2632" RevisionGUID="b194040c-1fa3-486e-8cba-20e643eb2edb" CreationDate="2016-05-01T13:53:35.327" UserId="531" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm finding this hilarious. The pseudoscience is stunning. That device is a pretty standard microphone that was used for attaching to a landline. The proper name escapes me (I'll update) but you can find it as a telephone suction cup [microphone][1] for between 5-20 dollars on amazon. I am unable to identify the *sound card* he is using for the capture, and the software he's using seems to be [wavelab][2]. Any good soundcard should work for this I suspect&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note those things are good fun, and he might be picking up noise off of his power lead. I'm unsure what the seemingly quarter inch connector is leading off of the sound device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Telephone-Microphone-Suction-Cup-Pickup/dp/B0034I75IK/ref=pd_sim_229_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41VKjYK7ZsL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1Z180GGHCFD7RHCSAPEH&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.steinberg.net/en/products/wavelab/start.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2633" RevisionGUID="5b6fd57b-2773-4515-b16f-0d7a85615970" CreationDate="2016-05-01T18:48:47.677" UserId="352" Text="Look no further. [Optimus Tactus](http://www.artlebedev.com/everything/optimus/tactus/). &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Zero travel distance and mere touch to activate. Plus on-the-fly reconfiguration of the layout, even quite thorough, with arbitrary key shape changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not entirely sure how practical it is for active use, but it definitely fits the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f57bW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y85wa.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NblB1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2633" RevisionGUID="8bdc1fa5-bb24-4917-8db3-7ae95731bcb5" CreationDate="2016-05-01T18:59:56.920" UserId="352" Comment="added 486 characters in body" Text="Look no further. [Optimus Tactus](http://www.artlebedev.com/everything/optimus/tactus/). &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Zero travel distance and mere touch to activate. Plus on-the-fly reconfiguration of the layout, even quite thorough, with arbitrary key shape changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not entirely sure how practical it is for active use, but it definitely fits the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, availability might be poor - I'm not sure if it ever entered trade. But another (inexpensive!) alternative is the [Magic Box Laser Keyboard.][4] (available e.g. on [Ebay.)](http://www.ebay.com/bhp/bluetooth-laser-keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, zero key travel distance and no force required, plus a neat form factor for use in travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f57bW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y85wa.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NblB1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX1zMFgYdu4&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fZCLQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2633" RevisionGUID="9c223363-14ae-4463-96c6-a95fcec33bc5" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:52:32.777" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="Look no further. [Optimus Tactus](http://www.artlebedev.com/everything/optimus/tactus/). &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Zero travel distance and mere touch to activate. Plus on-the-fly reconfiguration of the layout, even quite thorough, with arbitrary key shape changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not entirely sure how practical it is for active use, but it definitely fits the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, availability might be poor - I'm not sure if it ever entered trade. But another (inexpensive!) alternative is the [Magic Box Laser Keyboard.][4] (available e.g. on [Ebay.)](http://www.ebay.com/bhp/bluetooth-laser-keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, zero key travel distance and no force required, plus a neat form factor for use in travel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f57bWm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/y85wam.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NblB1m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX1zMFgYdu4&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fZCLQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2593" RevisionGUID="1d28e75f-286c-482a-a5f1-e25fdd5ab3b6" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:53:50.153" UserId="54" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Coincidentally, Cherry has just released a new switch, the MX Silver (a.k.a. MX Speed), which has a much lower actuation point:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the travel distance is too quite long, I'm not sure why (comments are welcome if you know). I also don't know how much mm of rings one can add to reduce the travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Silver is used in Corsair Rapidfire keyboard series, which contains both compact and complete versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few additional nice features (quote from [gameranx](http://gameranx.com/updates/id/49175/article/corsair-introduces-k70-k65-rapidfire-mechanical-keyboards/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Additionally, these mechanical keyboards come with a detachable wrist rest, key pullers with spare WASD and QWERDF key caps that are often used for first-person shooters along with MOBA’s. Furthermore, there is a USB 2.0 pass-through port in order to allow users to connect various USB devices such as headsets or a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As expected, the keyboards are overpriced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair Gaming K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit RGB LED, Cherry MX Speed RGB(CH-9101014-NA) [costs 170 USD in the US](http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RAPIDFIRE-Mechanical-Keyboard-CH-9101014-NA/dp/B01D8H09TS/).&#xD;&#xA;- K65 RGB Rapidfire: [$139.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k65-rgb-rapidfire-compact-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-rgb-na)&#xD;&#xA;- K70 Rapidfire is listed as [$129.99](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-rapidfire-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-speed-na).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K70 rapidfire:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some images for the K65 rapidfire RGB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible o-rings (which can be quickly installed with a [Keycap Puller Tool](http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Inc-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00M9ETHYU) a.k.a. [Key Cap Remover](http://www.amazon.com/Hapurs-Remover-Mechanical-keyboard-Removing/dp/B011BNCUH0)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Red 40A-L - 0.2mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ3966), ~1.5 mm thick, soft (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [Cherry MX Rubber O-Ring Switch Dampeners Blue 40A-R - 0.4mm Reduction (125pcs)](http://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Rubber-O-Ring-Switch-Dampeners/dp/B00AZQ2OF8),  ~1.8mm thick (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rubber-Dampeners-135-Pieces-RO-100T/dp/B00K73IE1C)  2.0mm (0.078&quot;) thick (uncompressed) (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16&quot; ID, 5/16&quot; OD, 1/16&quot; Width (Pack of 100)](http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8) (2 USD)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Rosewill RO-100T Silicon O-Ring Dampeners, for Cherry MX Key Switch, Transparent (135pcs)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826997065)  ~2.0mm thick, 50A (15 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- [OcUK Tech Labs Noise Dampening O-Rings for Cherry MX Keyboards- Clear - 125 pieces](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk-tech-labs-noise-dampening-o-rings-for-cherry-mx-keyboards-black-125-pieces-kb-000-tl.html), Shore 40A, 1,6 mm thick (10 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;- http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/products have a nice choice: &quot;Thin&quot; = 1.5mm || &quot;Thick&quot; = 2.5mm || &quot;XXL&quot; = 3.0mm. (material : Silicone; Hardness : 40A) (around 10 EUR, ships from France)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that you can stack o-ring dampeners ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2ch1oq/help_can_you_stack_dampener_orings/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;O-ring hardness can be inferred from the model name (I took the slide from this great [presentation](http://slideplayer.com/slide/3867584/)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further information regarding o-rings, this [reddit page](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/modifications?v=5670fa22-e865-11e5-a071-0ed6015adaf1) is a gold mine. Amongst other things,  it points to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding which thickness to choose, this [webpage](http://lpwl.bigcartel.com/heeeelp) gives a good summary. Also, there is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [deskthority - What is the best size for me to use and what hardness would you suggest?](https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/o-ring-modification-t2219.html#p39838)&#xD;&#xA;-  [reddit - What o-rings should I buy?](https://redd.it/2v9zyu)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It simply depends on how the bottom of a keystroke is, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;vs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kZfye.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/pcAsI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XPPpK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5kvWIm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4b3p0m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1Af9Ym.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jxk0sm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvQ2m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/cC0Bsm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WzAnHm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hRjRRm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/c9WOI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/GwYR0m.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/P2vz3m.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2594" RevisionGUID="6bf6f119-e4d6-457e-b4ec-d4a0b712eee3" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:54:16.433" UserId="54" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="The [Arion Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz Wireless Smart Backlight LED Built-in Lithium Battery Mechanical MX Keyboard - Black](http://www.amazon.com/Rapoo-Wireless-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00UZZUFOQ) (85 USD) is mechanical, in addition to being flat (2mm travel distance, 50g actuation force). And they don't have any inclination, unlike too many other mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key Structure:Yellow mechanical key switches &#xD;&#xA;- Lifecycle: 60 Million Key-press Key press force:50 + / - 10g &#xD;&#xA;- Key press whole travel: 2.0mm + / - 0.6mm &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, they use their own switch, which have a higher actuation force than the Cherry MX Reds. (I have [read](http://techgage.com/news/breaking-the-wire-kx-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-now-available/) they feel similar as Cherry MX Blacks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find any force vs travel plot nor a non-compact version of it. According to this [message from the Amazon seller](https://www.amazon.com/there-non-compact-version-this-keyboard/forum/Fx1Z9A9AGE3591Y/TxCG8PN08XYYCE), they don't have any non-compact version of this keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Amazon seller also sent me this table summarizing the properties of the Rapoo key switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7ASogm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UaC3Hm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QAimKm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7WlAUm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sDJOym.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VHYEq.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10025" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="2e94607a-9550-47a6-8bb0-56462259de76" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:55:36.903" UserId="54" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more comparisons from http://www.pcper.com/reviews/General-Tech/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Explained-and-Compared:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11][![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Romer-G Mechanical Switches have a lower operating point (1.5 mm) and key travel (3 mm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are present in the [Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (920-006385)](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-920-006385/dp/B00N3OELPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the following graph, the blue curve is a Romer-G Mechanical Switch, the white curve of is a typical mechanical switch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newly released (June 2016) Tesoro’s Low-Profile 'Agile' Switches are quite interesting: the full travel of the switches is 3.5 mm. Unfortunately, they haven't announced the actuation force nor the operation point. [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIA8Yf9DE1w)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][16]][16]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][17]][17]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhhm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfsm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jYKH8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hXI5P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WXCJwm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQNm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4m.png&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9zm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10028" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2587" RevisionGUID="d380e6be-a422-4bfd-bc99-71ffbcf9d7ac" CreationDate="2016-05-02T07:08:28.430" UserId="2243" Comment="Add specs" Text="After some investigation what's difference in performance of DDR3 and DDR4 I decided to stick with 5 years old hardware - as what I saw, performance is not so drastically different (and actually with current mobile CPUs it could be even worse). Yet I'm left with &quot;only&quot; 16GB RAM for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I managed to buy almost-like-new ThinkPad T420s, equipped with i7 processor and secondary nVidia graphics card just for ~450USD, including docking station. (Well, I still have to spend another money on 512GB SSD drive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit - specs what I got:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo ThinkPad T420s (~450 USD)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Core i7 2620M][1]&#xD;&#xA; - motherboard: Lenovo 4173AZ1&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB RAM (didn't check what brand, ... see below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Docking station (with DVI and DP) (~35 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course I wanted to tune it little bit, so I bought additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500GB&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston SO-DIMM 16GB KIT DDR3 1333MHz CL9 (8 + 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... so my final spending is ~720 USD for 3.4 GHz i7 beast with 16 GB RAM. But indeed it *is* used notebook, so there are some things which don't shine so much and I'm considering further polishing of it - but I don't need to rush with these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/52231/Intel-Core-i7-2620M-Processor-4M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="b7a09e7f-112a-45b0-afa8-867ad6c5b424" CreationDate="2016-05-02T11:08:30.767" UserId="2086" Text="I am owning i5 plus. I want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering samsung gear and microsoft band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft band's battery only last 2 days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung gear only works at samsung phone. Iphone watch only works at iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My i5 plus is very great. However, it looks so dull. It doesn't impress my business partners.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something like i5 plus but with fancy color. Not sure if I want always on display. Battery life is kind of cool feature for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10031" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="b7a09e7f-112a-45b0-afa8-867ad6c5b424" CreationDate="2016-05-02T11:08:30.767" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me a good high end smart band" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10032" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="b7a09e7f-112a-45b0-afa8-867ad6c5b424" CreationDate="2016-05-02T11:08:30.767" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2635" RevisionGUID="e4a0fc2c-9882-4abf-9e63-00d1f785624e" CreationDate="2016-05-02T11:54:44.387" UserId="2402" Text="Have you considered the [Motorola Moto 360][1]?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-360&#xA;It's got a coloured screen and looks pretty stylish in my opinion. Though according to reviews.. You need nightly charging, however considering you charge your phone everyday anyway, I don't see why that would be that much of a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10034" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2630" RevisionGUID="de382a09-5cc8-428e-8c37-d8a437b9c41c" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:00:02.010" UserId="2402" Comment="added 357 characters in body" Text="Corsair CMFSL3X2-128GB 128GB Voyager is one I use myslef, it's an extremely compact design, 128gb and has 90mb/s write speed, which seems to fit your specifications, however, I'm not sure about how strong the key ring attachment is, I've had this for three years now and I've had no issues so far, so I guess unless you are handling it roughly, I don't see why it could break.&#xA;&#xA;The next best thing I can find is the Samsung USB 3.0 Flash Drive FIT 128GB (MUF-128BB) which takes size reduction to the extreme. (It's smaller than my Bluetooth mouse adapter which is almost invisible). It's 130mb/s read/write speed. Only problem is that it doesn't have the capability to be attached to a keyring. But I guess you can't have everything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10035" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2563" RevisionGUID="b542095b-a0fc-4075-bb4d-41f327b4f465" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:39:26.880" UserId="2335" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I have an all in one PC from the mid-90s (Compaq Presario 3020 - See below).&#xD;&#xA;Based on the riser and from what I can measure (9&quot; x 13&quot;), it looks like an LPX form factor motherboard/case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to bring it back to life and just do very simple stuff with it, e.g. file server or a Classic Arcade Game emulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, it doesn't have to be too powerful or need much cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which motherboard form-factors will be able to fit and line up the I/O ports without looking _too_ out of place?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points if you can suggest an actual motherboard + CPU that isn't too expensive (new or used is fine)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Compaq Presario 3020 Side View][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Compaq Presario 3020 Rear View Open][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/I1KcT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/phZ6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2636" RevisionGUID="02487bcd-4f17-4b17-a984-d9e9c24035e3" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:48:38.820" UserId="2335" Text="These seem to be viable options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Mini-ITX][1] is 6.7&quot; x 6.7&quot; &#xD;&#xA; - [Micro ATX][2] is 9.6&quot; x 9.6&quot;, however, some are smaller e.g. [this MSI H97-G43][3] is 11.6&quot; x 8.7&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - [FlexATX][4] is 9&quot; x 7.5&quot; but is harder to come by&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These will fit based on their sizes although I don't know whether the holes or I/O ports will line up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini-ITX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MicroATX&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Intel-Micro-Motherboard-H97M-G43/dp/B00K33PLZS&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FlexATX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="f8cb3345-4979-40c4-9117-6744058a26f5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:26:49.430" UserId="2409" Text="I am looking to purchase a laptop pc for running Windows 10. I am looking for something that is strong and rugged like the old Thinkpads used to be. Something with a strong and &quot;non-squishy&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need 16 GB RAM minimum with an SSD driver and at the very least a 14&quot; screen. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs looking for:&#xD;&#xA;1) i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;2) 16 GB Ram (32 GB would be awesome)&#xD;&#xA;3) SSD drive&#xD;&#xA;4) 14&quot; screen or higher&#xD;&#xA;5) USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;6) Solid build quality&#xD;&#xA;7) Solid keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I already have a Macbook Pro which I love, however I would like to have a dedicated Windows machine rather than run a VM or use Boot Camp." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10038" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="f8cb3345-4979-40c4-9117-6744058a26f5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:26:49.430" UserId="2409" Text="Laptop with &quot;Thinkpad&quot; like quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10039" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="f8cb3345-4979-40c4-9117-6744058a26f5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:26:49.430" UserId="2409" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10040" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="ff666ca6-54df-4169-b5dc-155520b21585" CreationDate="2016-05-02T16:02:14.727" UserId="2409" Comment="Better formatting of list" Text="I am looking to purchase a laptop pc for running Windows 10. I am looking for something that is strong and rugged like the old Thinkpads used to be. Something with a strong and &quot;non-squishy&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need 16 GB RAM minimum with an SSD driver and at the very least a 14&quot; screen. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. 16 GB Ram (32 GB would be awesome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. SSD drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. 14&quot; screen or higher&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 6. Solid build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 7. Solid keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I already have a Macbook Pro which I love, however I would like to have a dedicated Windows machine rather than run a VM or use Boot Camp." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10046" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="c7bf899c-1885-4dba-8775-5ec808cc2b54" CreationDate="2016-05-02T16:44:13.807" UserId="2086" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I am owning i5 plus. I want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering samsung gear and microsoft band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft band's battery only last 2 days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung gear only works at samsung phone. Iphone watch only works at iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My i5 plus is very great. However, it looks so dull. It doesn't impress my business partners.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something like i5 plus but with fancy color. Not sure if I want always on display. Battery life is kind of cool feature for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also like the fact that i5 doesn't have unusual charger and can be charged in any USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5 is great. I just want something more fancy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2640" RevisionGUID="b1b46864-1709-4dd9-b4ed-54564ae4abe2" CreationDate="2016-05-02T23:22:40.180" UserId="531" Text="Not really 'current' hardware but [hothardware tested this roughly 3 generations ago][1] (and that's pci-e 3.0 era hardware I believe) on a *core 2 duo*. And the results were pretty darned dramatic. Graphics performance was roughly 50% better. And well, modern cards *still* do not typically saturate a PCIe 2.0 connection, especially on the mid range. Consider this. PCIe 3.0 is about twice as fast as PCIe 2.0, and you'd be using your cards at x8 in SLI, so clearly, x8 speeds on PCIe 3.0 (aka x16 speeds in PCIe 2.0) should be enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yeah, you can wait for the next generation but a 960 actually feels like a compelling upgrade if you *need* to upgrade *now*. You can always use it as a dedicated phyx card should you choose to get a pascal, and well, in addition to the wait, we don't actually know if the next gen pascal and polaris chips actually live up to the hype. Nonetheless if you choose to wait, those cards ought to drop in and work as well as long as they're PCIe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think the performance drop would be *that* bad, and in a scenario where you're gradually building up a system, this would make a ton of sense. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hothardware.com/reviews/gpu-redux-can-old-dualcores-drive-a-modern-graphics-card?page=5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2641" RevisionGUID="a2129c60-8388-4d2e-a363-60cdd10a5d34" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:09:36.243" UserId="241" Text="I'm looking for a floppy drive to read and archive a large stack of old floppy disks.  Because of their age, I expect many of the disks will have errors.  I plan to use `ddrescue` to make images of these disks to perform data recovery on: `ddrescue` tries to recover bad sectors by repeatedly reading them, so I need a drive that won't make things worse as it reads the disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for 3.5&quot; IBM-PC HD and DD floppies&#xD;&#xA;* Must be compatible with `ddrescue` (*shouldn't* be a problem, but you never know)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for 5.25&quot; floppies&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interface: USB preferred, but I can work with a standard internal floppy interface as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10054" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2641" RevisionGUID="a2129c60-8388-4d2e-a363-60cdd10a5d34" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:09:36.243" UserId="241" Text="Floppy drive for reading old disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10055" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2641" RevisionGUID="a2129c60-8388-4d2e-a363-60cdd10a5d34" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:09:36.243" UserId="241" Text="&lt;floppy-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="8fa7856c-799f-440d-b9bb-e1f2550ba893" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:38:42.090" UserId="2086" Comment="added 91 characters in body" Text="I am owning i5 plus. I want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering samsung gear and microsoft band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft band's battery only last 2 days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung gear only works at samsung phone. Iphone watch only works at iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My i5 plus is very great. However, it looks so dull. It doesn't impress my business partners.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something like i5 plus but with fancy color. Not sure if I want always on display. Battery life is kind of cool feature for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also like the fact that i5 doesn't have unusual charger and can be charged in any USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5 is great. I just want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering microsoft band 2. However, it has a feature I don't need, namely, gps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10060" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2634" RevisionGUID="27c0cf52-b548-4dd3-9904-2b1f104ec9bf" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:46:59.793" UserId="2086" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I am owning i5 plus. I want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering samsung gear and microsoft band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft band's battery only last 2 days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung gear only works at samsung phone. Iphone watch only works at iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My i5 plus is very great. However, it looks so dull. It doesn't impress my business partners.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something like i5 plus but with fancy color. Not sure if I want always on display. Battery life is kind of cool feature for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also like the fact that i5 doesn't have unusual charger and can be charged in any USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5 is great. I just want something more fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering microsoft band 2. However, it has a feature I don't need, namely, gps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely like heart rate monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2643" RevisionGUID="979f12e6-4796-4518-9c8b-96a611326fea" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:32:59.323" UserId="2416" Text="With things like Maru OS, Complete Linux Installer and non-root Debian out there, I see more and more people plugging their phone into an external monitor, pairing a bluetooth keyboard and mouse, and using it as a desktop computer. I'm thrilled by this idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case anyone is wondering: the Linux kernel can be made to run Android and GNU userlands at the same time, so that you have both a phone and desktop computer in a single device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It occurs to me that you would get a better experience on an x86 phone, since the ecosystem of desktop apps is much better for x86 than for ARM. Although they are a tiny minority, I know that there are several nice x86 Android phones out there at the moment. The way Dalvik works means that [they still run the normal Android apps.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the Asus Zenphone 2 is quite powerful, but is it powerful enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a powerful x86 Android phone. It needs to allow &quot;loop devices&quot; (or whatever it's called) This is because that is required for Complete Linux Installer). It also needs to be easy to root and install Xposed Framework on. It should also have hardware allowing me to run desktop apps like Google Chrome with a some basic extensions and several tabs open. I would use apps like Transmission, Skype, Banshee, VLC, Libre Office, OpenShot (no HD), Audacity, GIMP, Photoshop (Wine), Lightroom (Wine), etc. I would probably occasionally run three or four applications at the same time. Is this possible? I mean, my very modest laptop does all this, and it's pretty similar to, for example, the Asus Zenphone 2 in terms of specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this would *not* be a dual boot. Stuff like Maru OS (only ARM currently) actually lets you run GNU and Android at the very same time, so that if you're in desktop mode you can still receive calls, notifications, etc, from Android.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a powerful enough Android phone in the market today to give me a good experience here? My budget is around USD 500, but it can be stretched a bit if there's a perfect phone out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132609/are-apks-architecture-independent" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10062" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2643" RevisionGUID="979f12e6-4796-4518-9c8b-96a611326fea" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:32:59.323" UserId="2416" Text="x86 Android phone powerful enough to be used for basic desktop tasks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10063" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2643" RevisionGUID="979f12e6-4796-4518-9c8b-96a611326fea" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:32:59.323" UserId="2416" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10064" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="20d101ea-cf9a-4d2f-b504-d08bf0c11a95" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:53:00.337" UserId="2415" Text="I want to set up a Ubuntu 12.04 system for MRI analyses. I will need 12.04, because some of the analysis software is not properly working wit later Ubuntu versions. Can anybody recommend a motherboard for such a system with an Intel Core i7-6700K? Maybe an Gigabyte GA-H170-HD3?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is greatly appreciated! tog&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10065" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="20d101ea-cf9a-4d2f-b504-d08bf0c11a95" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:53:00.337" UserId="2415" Text="What motherboard can I use for Ubunu 12.04?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10066" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="20d101ea-cf9a-4d2f-b504-d08bf0c11a95" CreationDate="2016-05-03T08:53:00.337" UserId="2415" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="418a4fcc-4e9a-45d4-9e8f-776f224d0ad6" CreationDate="2016-05-03T10:50:44.520" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 40 characters in body; edited title" Text="I want to set up a Ubuntu 12.04 system for MRI analyses. I will need 12.04, because some of the analysis software is not properly working wit later Ubuntu versions. Can anybody recommend a motherboard for such a system with an Intel Core i7-6700K? Maybe an Gigabyte GA-H170-HD3?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10073" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="418a4fcc-4e9a-45d4-9e8f-776f224d0ad6" CreationDate="2016-05-03T10:50:44.520" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 40 characters in body; edited title" Text="What motherboard can I use for Ubuntu 12.04?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10074" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2643" RevisionGUID="5551b4a8-1389-4106-a9f2-099e730f5acd" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:53:20.797" UserId="2416" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="With things like Maru OS, Complete Linux Installer and non-root Debian out there, I see more and more people plugging their phone into an external monitor, pairing a bluetooth keyboard and mouse, and using it as a desktop computer. I'm thrilled by this idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case anyone is wondering: the Linux kernel can be made to run Android and GNU userlands at the same time, so that you have both a phone and desktop computer in a single device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It occurs to me that you would get a better experience on an x86 phone, since the ecosystem of desktop apps is much better for x86 than for ARM. Although they are a tiny minority, I know that there are several nice x86 Android phones out there at the moment. The way Dalvik works means that [they still run the normal Android apps.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the Asus Zenphone 2 is quite powerful, but is it powerful enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a powerful x86 Android phone. It needs to allow &quot;loop devices&quot; (or whatever it's called) This is because that is required for Complete Linux Installer). It also needs to be easy to root and install Xposed Framework on. It should also have hardware allowing me to run desktop apps like Google Chrome with a some basic extensions and several tabs open. I would use apps like Transmission, Skype, Banshee, VLC, Libre Office, OpenShot (no HD), Audacity, GIMP, Photoshop (Wine), Lightroom (Wine), etc. I would probably occasionally run three or four applications at the same time. Is this possible? I mean, my very modest laptop does all this, and it's pretty similar to, for example, the Asus Zenphone 2 in terms of specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this would *not* be a dual boot. Stuff like Maru OS (only ARM currently) actually lets you run GNU and Android at the very same time, so that if you're in desktop mode you can still receive calls, notifications, etc, from Android.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a powerful enough x86 Android phone in the market today to give me a good experience here? My budget is around USD 500, but it can be stretched a bit if there's a perfect phone out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132609/are-apks-architecture-independent" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10075" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="de4db4a4-251b-4df5-abb2-b74283c077a6" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:37:04.463" UserId="67" Comment="bump - i'm still looking for something like this" Text="I'm looking for a dedicated audio recording device. I'm looking for something under $30 (or a bit more), and which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has a 3.5mm connector mic socket, which also works with line-level audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has good audio quality, which means no noises from the device itself, at least 44.1kHz and stereo recording to WAV or some other lossless format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Has adjustable audio level, as well as displaying the audio level. Bonus points if you can hear what you're recording through the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus points if it takes SD or MicroSD cards instead of having built in storage, both to keep the cost down and because then I can swap out the card when it is full. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't really care about the quality of the microphone, as I have my own high quality one. Would be even better if it has _no_ built in mic - again, saves on price, and I would not use it much anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around a bit, and devices with good quality start at around $60, so if I could get something like that, just without the built in mic and storage, that would work well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially, I'm looking for something like [this Zoom digital recorder](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoom-Portable-Digital-Recorder-Version/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1), but without the built in microphone and a bit cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like this exist? Any recommendations? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="a87bc344-31f4-49c0-904c-be39e41eeb41" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:45:12.570" UserId="-1" Comment="Improved title and text to improve the question" Text="I have an eyesight problem and have trouble seeing presentations on the screen when I'm in conferences or in group meetings. I am currently using an application called Eye Glasses on my iPad for this purpose, which has a nice zoom capability but the problem is that I need to turn it very much toward myself to be able to focus on the presentation (which is usually shown on a screen located on the top of the wall).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am now looking for a camera/webcam that I can mount on my macbook's screen or on my iPad with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must be tiny (ideally like a spy camera) so it doesn't catch the attention of the presenter or people who are sitting around me (most presenters are not comfortable with being on a camera)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must have zoom capability so I can zoom in depending on my distance from the screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It must have tilt capability (adjustable angle) so I can focus on the presentation depending on my vertical distance from the screen by just turning the camera (without having to adjust the angle of my macbook's screen or my iPad).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to emphasize that I do NOT need to record the presentation. Just seeing the screen would be more than enough for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas as to what options I may have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10081" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="a87bc344-31f4-49c0-904c-be39e41eeb41" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:45:12.570" UserId="-1" Comment="Improved title and text to improve the question" Text="Tiny zoomable camera with adjustable angle for distance viewing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10082" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2353" RevisionGUID="a87bc344-31f4-49c0-904c-be39e41eeb41" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:45:12.570" Comment="Proposed by 134.174.250.170|6195849b-3fff-495a-a9ab-9cbacbd0264e approved by 60, 155 edit id of 453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="da26e551-fd0b-418a-a3b3-0c9063f022c7" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:53:11.013" UserId="2335" Text="I have [this mini-itx motherboard][1] with a PCI-E 16 slot.&#xD;&#xA;[![BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an old all-in-one PC that I am refurbishing/upgrading with this motherboard. The screen is connected to a PCI graphics card via a ribbon and a special connector and I can't see how to change it but I am happy to use this card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I now need to go from PCI-E 16 to PCI. It is in a restricted case so some sort of riser cable will be required to make the graphics card parallel to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options without getting too expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is available on eBay for under $25. &#xD;&#xA;[![PCI-E to PCI adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The backplate looks like it would get in the way when being added to the slot though or do I have it back to front and does the smaller slot on the card go into the longer slot on the motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the PCI-E part of it just looks like a USB adapter. Could I skip the PCI-E altogether and just plug this into a USB port?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other PCI-E to PCI adapters/cables in a similar price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LtvZl.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JlZPt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10085" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="da26e551-fd0b-418a-a3b3-0c9063f022c7" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:53:11.013" UserId="2335" Text="How Do I Go From PCI-E 16 To PCI Graphics?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10086" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="da26e551-fd0b-418a-a3b3-0c9063f022c7" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:53:11.013" UserId="2335" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="b68f6d12-9ab5-47c1-9851-09e7a4090fba" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:55:31.607" UserId="1366" Comment="Bringing order to the question." Text="I want to set up a Ubuntu 12.04 system for MRI analyses. I will need 12.04, because some of the analysis software is not properly working wit later Ubuntu versions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anybody recommend me a motherboard which will support:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU i7-6700K&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB RAM &#xD;&#xA; - **Ubuntu 12.04**&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x 2TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found **Gigabyte GA-H170-HD3** but I'm not sure if it will support all positions from the list?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10088" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="4447a942-8304-4bdd-be43-69c645144faf" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:23:17.173" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2648" RevisionGUID="15e28ac8-c08e-4c21-ba3e-5f763b120a5e" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:40:34.273" UserId="2402" Text="The [SQ8 Mini DV Camera 1080P Full HD Car DVR][1] is best I could find, it's very small and can run for about 100 minutes at 1080p at 30fps, which should cover most presentations. It comes with its own stand, so if you have a desk, which I assume you do since you can out a laptop down, you can just put it in front of your laptop and stream it to your laptop. The price is also pretty decent. Only questionable thing is that it is from Gearbest, which is an American company but it sells solely Chinese products, and some people have a thing about buying things made and designed in China. But for as long as I have been a customer of Gearbest, everything I've brought so far hasn't ha an issue, so I guess it's your call.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://SQ8%20Mini%20DV%20Camera%201080P%20Full%20HD%20Car%20DVR%20%20-%20%20BLACK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2650" RevisionGUID="5f0bdc4e-f68c-4137-bdb1-4bffc8d25726" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:53:42.660" UserId="2428" Text="I'm looking for a wireless headset that satisfies all of the following requirements and for the life of me, I can't seem to find anything that meets all my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to listen to both devices &quot;at the same time&quot; (e.g. listen to music coming from the PC and also hear the ring of an incoming phone call, or at least just need to pause the music and then hear/receive the phone call)&#xD;&#xA; - When using the PC to make calls (e.g. Skype, Google Voice/Hangouts), the sound should be in (or close to) Studio quality (e.g. at least 2 channels, 24 bit, 48000 Hz)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to mute the mic with a single touch or action (e.g. pulling up the mic) of a button on the headset&#xD;&#xA; - Noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use a single wireless technology (e.g. Bluetooth), but it's perfectly fine if it requires a dongle (RF)&#xD;&#xA; - Surround sound and/or 7 channels&#xD;&#xA; - Form factor similar to the [Motorola Buds][1] or the [Motorola S11][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Works with PlayStation 3 and/or 4, meaning, listen to the game audio, not just for voice chats&#xD;&#xA; - Accept an incoming phone call by pressing a button on the headset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I have tried (and why it didn't work):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motorola Buds: Uses just BT, but can't pair to two devices at the same time. To add insult to injury, when using Skype on PC, sound quality is reduced to mono, 8-bit, crappy phone quality and it creates two different audio playback devices, so music does sound good (high quality), but for calls/communication, you're forced to use the low quality audio playback device.&#xD;&#xA; - Logitech G933 Artemis Spectrum: Does not use BT, so to listen to the mobile phone, you have to connect the phone to the headset's dongle, which in turn connects to the PC. I don't mind all those connections, the problem is that the dongle only &quot;streams&quot; audio out to the headset, but cannot provide (headset) mic input to the phone. The only way to fully connect the phone to the headset is by connecting the phone via AUX cable to the headset, which completely breaks the wireless requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Universal-Bluetooth-Stereo-Headset/dp/B00H0CV9TM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-S11-Flex-Wireless-Bluetooth-Headset/dp/B009M27MB2/ref=pd_sim_107_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41SCfv7kq0L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=04MD7J9SKX55ER4X1R70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2650" RevisionGUID="5f0bdc4e-f68c-4137-bdb1-4bffc8d25726" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:53:42.660" UserId="2428" Text="Wireless headset that works with PC and mobile phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2650" RevisionGUID="5f0bdc4e-f68c-4137-bdb1-4bffc8d25726" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:53:42.660" UserId="2428" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="56c89019-2f23-4897-9e2f-841d58bc6169" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:23:00.320" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 131 characters in body" Text="I have [this mini-itx motherboard][1] with a PCI-E 16 slot.&#xD;&#xA;[![BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an old all-in-one PC that I am refurbishing/upgrading with this motherboard. The screen is connected to a PCI graphics card via a ribbon and a special connector and I can't see how to change it but I am happy to use this card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I now need to go from PCI-E 16 to PCI. It is in a restricted case so some sort of riser cable will be required to make the graphics card parallel to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options without getting too expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is available on eBay for under $25. &#xD;&#xA;[![PCI-E to PCI adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The backplate looks like it would get in the way when being added to the slot though or do I have it back to front and does the smaller slot on the card go into the longer slot on the motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other PCI-E to PCI adapters/cables in a similar price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LtvZl.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JlZPt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10099" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="2f5c9340-1ada-4942-ab6d-b278bb713c47" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:58:46.360" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10100" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="ef2ef321-f540-42bf-946f-fb67eb673880" CreationDate="2016-05-04T20:31:47.583" UserId="67" Comment="29" />
  <row Id="10101" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2341" RevisionGUID="47cf754c-e9ad-4b0d-b195-a1fded04b5d2" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:28:22.863" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10110" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2626" RevisionGUID="3ad49a17-a6c1-4dcd-8607-01fb8d075af9" CreationDate="2016-05-05T08:30:12.337" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10111" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="19c01554-9e1c-4ca5-a8e2-f942b78a9c09" CreationDate="2016-05-05T12:53:29.647" UserId="2335" Comment="Added links and alternatives and explained more about prior research" Text="I have [this mini-itx motherboard][1] with a PCI-E 16 slot.&#xD;&#xA;[![BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an old all-in-one PC that I am refurbishing/upgrading with this motherboard. The screen is connected to a PCI graphics card via a ribbon and a special connector and I can't see how to change it but I am happy to use this card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I now need to go from PCI-E 16 to PCI. It is in a restricted case so some sort of riser cable will be required to make the graphics card parallel to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options without getting too expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [PCI-E Express X1 to Dual PCI Riser Extend Adapter Card][3] is available on eBay for under $25. &#xD;&#xA;[![PCI-E to PCI adapter][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I have subsequently found more details about it on [Newegg][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1.Product Name: PCIE To Dual PCI riser card&#xD;&#xA;    2.Model: PCE2PCI-P01&#xD;&#xA;    3.Using master: Pericom&#xD;&#xA;    4.Product Interface: PCI-E PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The backplate looks like it would get in the way when being added to the slot though or do I have it back to front and does the smaller slot on the card go into the longer slot on the motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other PCI-E to PCI adapters/cables in a similar price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other alternative I have found is [this card from Startech][6]  `Product ID: PEX1PCI1` which will also require a PCI cable [such as this for ~$5][7]. This alternative is more than twice as much as the first, however, it is lower profile which is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be honest, I was expecting a plethora of cables to be available under $10 since at the time of the PCI to PCI-E changeover there would have been lots of requirements like this and by now the cables and chips required should be cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I can't find anything other than these two options. Part of the problem is that if I search for PCI to PCI-E cable I end up being swamped with PCI-E to PCI-E cables as the search engines aren't intelligent enough to distinguish the keywords.&#xD;&#xA;Hence the question here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LtvZl.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PCI-E-Express-X1-to-Dual-PCI-Riser-Extend-Adapter-Card-With-USB-3-0-Cable-2-6-FT-/262217108869?hash=item3d0d5b8d85:g:Ex4AAOSw5dNWhJS-&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JlZPt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA76H40W0980&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Slot-Extension/PCI-Express-to-PCI-Adapter-Card~PEX1PCI1&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/32-Bit-Flexible-PCI-Riser-Card-Extender-Flex-Extension-Ribbon-Cable-Extera-Cable-/151763494417" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2647" RevisionGUID="8fd50838-2242-43cb-ae57-846c2167dad5" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:08:25.673" UserId="2335" Comment="Add picture of graphics card and link to blog with more pics" Text="I have [this mini-itx motherboard][1] with a PCI-E 16 slot.&#xD;&#xA;[![BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an old all-in-one PC that I am refurbishing/upgrading with this motherboard. The screen is connected to a PCI graphics card via a ribbon and a special connector and I can't see how to change it but I am happy to use this card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: According to [this blog][3] it is an `S3 Aurora64V videocard +`. It wouldn't surprise me if it was propriety though and I'm not sure if you can remove the ribbon from the card. I don't want to force it and rip it out.&#xD;&#xA;[![Compaq 3020 graphics card connectors][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I now need to go from PCI-E 16 to PCI. It is in a restricted case so some sort of riser cable will be required to make the graphics card parallel to the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options without getting too expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [PCI-E Express X1 to Dual PCI Riser Extend Adapter Card][5] is available on eBay for under $25. &#xD;&#xA;[![PCI-E to PCI adapter][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I have subsequently found more details about it on [Newegg][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1.Product Name: PCIE To Dual PCI riser card&#xD;&#xA;    2.Model: PCE2PCI-P01&#xD;&#xA;    3.Using master: Pericom&#xD;&#xA;    4.Product Interface: PCI-E PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The backplate looks like it would get in the way when being added to the slot though or do I have it back to front and does the smaller slot on the card go into the longer slot on the motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other PCI-E to PCI adapters/cables in a similar price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other alternative I have found is [this card from Startech][8]  `Product ID: PEX1PCI1` which will also require a PCI cable [such as this for ~$5][9]. This alternative is more than twice as much as the first, however, it is lower profile which is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be honest, I was expecting a plethora of cables to be available under $10 since at the time of the PCI to PCI-E changeover there would have been lots of requirements like this and by now the cables and chips required should be cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I can't find anything other than these two options. Part of the problem is that if I search for PCI to PCI-E cable I end up being swamped with PCI-E to PCI-E cables as the search engines aren't intelligent enough to distinguish the keywords.&#xD;&#xA;Hence the question here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LtvZl.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://developers-club.com/posts/152002/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/t0vtY.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PCI-E-Express-X1-to-Dual-PCI-Riser-Extend-Adapter-Card-With-USB-3-0-Cable-2-6-FT-/262217108869?hash=item3d0d5b8d85:g:Ex4AAOSw5dNWhJS-&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JlZPt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA76H40W0980&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Slot-Extension/PCI-Express-to-PCI-Adapter-Card~PEX1PCI1&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/32-Bit-Flexible-PCI-Riser-Card-Extender-Flex-Extension-Ribbon-Cable-Extera-Cable-/151763494417" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="c7790c00-1c96-4ad1-a893-febfaff26fa9" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:31:47.093" UserId="2416" Text="I'm looking for Android phones with a powerful  x86 processor and decent specs all over. Any candidates must have a micro SD card slot.&#xA;&#xA;I'm already aware of the Asus Zenfone 2. Any other options? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10114" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="c7790c00-1c96-4ad1-a893-febfaff26fa9" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:31:47.093" UserId="2416" Text="Any good, powerful x86 Android phones out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="c7790c00-1c96-4ad1-a893-febfaff26fa9" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:31:47.093" UserId="2416" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="db5f39a1-c2af-413e-adb6-c37f6ca8da68" CreationDate="2016-05-05T14:40:51.393" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="47445f51-7d48-48c1-89f4-cbef0ab1011e" CreationDate="2016-05-05T15:03:36.233" UserId="2416" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for Android phones with a powerful, quad core x86 processor. I want at least 2 GHz of processing power and at least 2 GB of RAM. Any candidates must have a micro SD card slot.&#xA;&#xA;I'm already aware of the Asus Zenfone 2. Any other options? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="89dab6ba-2e35-4685-98e3-5eecb2a3b4ee" CreationDate="2016-05-05T15:07:48.380" UserId="214" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="be12ad2d-67d5-4730-941d-7deaafb1d8ac" CreationDate="2016-05-05T16:19:17.560" UserId="2416" Comment="added 186 characters in body; deleted 17 characters in body; edited title" Text="I've been looking for an Android phone with an x86 processor. I've googled a lot,  searched online and physical retailers, etc,  but so far I've only been able to find the Asus Zenfone. &#xA;&#xA;I'm looking for a phone with a quad or dual core x86 processor. I want at least 2 GHz of processing power and at least 2 GB of RAM. Any candidates must have a micro SD card slot.&#xA;&#xA;Are there any other options than the Asus Zenfone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2653" RevisionGUID="be12ad2d-67d5-4730-941d-7deaafb1d8ac" CreationDate="2016-05-05T16:19:17.560" UserId="2416" Comment="added 186 characters in body; deleted 17 characters in body; edited title" Text="Are there other x86 Android phones than the Asus Zenfone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2657" RevisionGUID="1744f79c-57f7-42ff-b99a-feec454ec6e8" CreationDate="2016-05-06T05:28:42.003" UserId="1366" Text="I found one additional phone which meets almost all your requirements (and is not Asus Zenfone 2 or Asus Zenfone Zoom or other Asus).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [Lenovo K80][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: [Intel Atom Z3560][2] (x64 quad core processor, but only 1.83 GHz frequency. It's the same processor like in Asus ZenFone 2 ZE550ML.)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: [PowerVR G6430][3]&#xD;&#xA; - 2 GB or 4 GB RAM (it depends which version)&#xD;&#xA; - 5.5&quot; LCD IPS 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA; - Antutu score: 41380&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 32 GB or 64 GB (no SD cards support which can disqualify this phone for you)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be bought:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [2GB RAM - 32GB ROM version - $230][4] - on Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA; - [4GB RAM - 64 GB ROM version - $180 + tax][5] - I only found it on AliExpress.com (Goldway) I actually bought there my Xiaomi Redmi Note 2 and I was really happy with this transaction &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/lenovo_k80-7216.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81194/Intel-Atom-Processor-Z3560-2M-Cache-up-to-1_83-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Imagination-PowerVR-G6430.110717.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-FDD-LTE-Screen-Android-1-83GHz/dp/B015HAIHCK&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-Lenovo-K80-K80M-4G-LTE-Mobile-Phone-Dual-SIM-Intel-64Bit-Quad-Core-5-5/32334874089.html?spm=2114.40010408.3.1.X9SX2p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2658" RevisionGUID="accd9761-ec9f-4e5c-bf04-3a4a53810521" CreationDate="2016-05-06T06:26:11.067" UserId="1366" Text="If this requirements which you listed are all what you need I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[MSI H110M Pro-VD][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [$56 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA; - support for i7 processors (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® H110 Chipset &#xD;&#xA; - M-ATX form factor&#xD;&#xA; - up to 32 GB RAM support (2 slots, dual channel)&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.1 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you won't overclock it is all what you need and there is no need to spend more money for better chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are sometimes problems with compatibility for Ubuntu with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel GPU on Skylake CPU's - [solution][3]&#xD;&#xA; - Sound: Realtek® ALC887 (exactly with 5.1 and 7.1 support) - [solution][4]&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet: Realtek RTL8111H Gigabit LAN - [solution][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://askubuntu.com/q/691216&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2273289&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1661489" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="390781b9-0134-49a8-835d-30c3545c118a" CreationDate="2016-05-06T09:44:59.167" UserId="1366" Comment="30" />
  <row Id="10136" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="738f6bfa-16e1-4bad-bb45-3cead978e53e" CreationDate="2016-05-06T09:45:26.247" UserId="1366" Comment="31" />
  <row Id="10138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="1efa4e05-0cbb-4eea-b89c-b8d59e38d85b" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:22:50.563" UserId="1366" Comment="added 86 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why change ? - My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - active speakers&#xD;&#xA; - stereo, two speaker system&#xD;&#xA; - price: ~100$ (maximum $150 but it has to be explained why it is better choice than ~$100 speakers)&#xD;&#xA; - usage: gaming, listening pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - important features: clear sound, hearable bass, volume control on speaker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I looking for ? -&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for speakers with the best sound quality in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is my idea ? -&#xD;&#xA; [Edifier R1600TIII][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for advice if I can find anything better in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="1efa4e05-0cbb-4eea-b89c-b8d59e38d85b" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:22:50.563" UserId="1366" Comment="added 86 characters in body; edited title" Text="Stereo speakers ~$100 (max $150)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2659" RevisionGUID="a6dcac45-bf52-42ac-aa9e-d565d143b26a" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:39:21.100" UserId="531" Text="I usually tend to review hardware I have in these answers. I'll make an exception, and review hardware I'm *looking* at seriously, and a bit of quick audio teachery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I had these requirements, I'd look at the [AV40][1] (which alas, I could not get my paws on) or the [AV42][2] (Which is on my wishlist), both by M-Audio. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AV40 has a *reputation*. [Wirecutter][4] considers it the best PC speaker you can buy. It has an aux in, a headphone out. Its powered (the left speaker has all the active things in it) and has a volume knob. It's even supposed to have little lights that tell you the speakers are angled correctly. Its also out of production. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm waiting on wirecutter to look at the AV42, but reviews are [decent][5]. Its not going to be a bass monster (get a proper sub for that), but its still going to be a decent pair of speakers. Monitors are designed for fairly flat response anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suggest this over the AV32 since its got a bigger woofer(and as such better bass). Its arguably prettier than its elder sibling. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both models are under 150 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.m-audio.com/products/view/studiophile-av-40&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.m-audio.com/products/view/av42&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8nNKd.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-computer-speakers/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.audiorumble.com/m-audio-av42-professional-studio-monitor-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/lWLGCm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2660" RevisionGUID="735c8900-b0dd-460c-a3c0-9064fe9f94e7" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:45:18.040" UserId="531" Text="While its a little below the pricerange, and the bass isn't *spectacular* I'd suggest taking a look at logitech's [z150][1]. They're fairly cheap, compact speakers. They arn't super bassy (I consider them to be *barely* passing the Indica test (I listen to how the start of the indica track Valokeilojen Vampyyri - where a VW van starts up)  for bass, though they're reasonable for everything else.  I replaced a larger pair of altec lansings that are the nokia 3110s of the speaker world with these and they've been acquitting themselves very well. Unlike the M Audios, and if someone said &quot;Hey, I need a pair of speakers&quot; - this is very likely what I'd point them at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're clear (enough), and don't really clip at the levels I use them at. They have the same option of front headphone and aux ports as the speakers I'd rather have (the AV40/42 in my other answer), and very practical, compact general use speakers. The AV40s are a muscle car. This is a little [kei car][2] that'll do well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These may not be the speakers you end up with, or drool at, but these speakers will handle most things, with aplomb for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-sg/product/multimedia-speakers-z150&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kei_car&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LksZU.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2660" RevisionGUID="767dd14c-d35a-4681-9ae8-319b0021cd1b" CreationDate="2016-05-06T11:38:31.830" UserId="531" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="While its a little below the pricerange, and the bass isn't *spectacular* I'd suggest taking a look at logitech's [z150][1]. They're fairly cheap, compact speakers. They arn't super bassy (I consider them to be *barely* passing the Indica test (I listen to how the start of the indica track Valokeilojen Vampyyri - where a VW van starts up)  for bass, though they're reasonable for everything else.  I replaced a larger pair of altec lansings that are the nokia 3110s of the speaker world with these and they've been acquitting themselves very well. Unlike the M Audios, they're easily available at the average computer store and if someone said &quot;Hey, I need a pair of speakers&quot; - this is very likely what I'd point them at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're clear (enough), and don't really clip at the levels I use them at. They have the same option of front headphone and aux ports as the speakers I'd rather have (the AV40/42 in my other answer), and very practical, compact general use speakers. The AV40s are a muscle car. This is a little [kei car][2] that'll do well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These may not be the speakers you end up with, or drool at, but these speakers will handle most things, with aplomb for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.logitech.com/en-sg/product/multimedia-speakers-z150&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kei_car&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LksZU.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="7d0564e5-b173-491e-8149-2c09e7fc4227" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:31:53.713" UserId="1997" Text="There are hundreds of &quot;portable jump starters&quot;, lithium ion battery packs with crocodile clip attachments that can be used to jump start a car. Some have bonus features like charging laptops or USB devices, or having a built-in light. Here are a few random examples: [1][1] [2][2] [3][3] [4][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem with these, and jump-starting in general, is that it's not much use if your car has some problem *other* than the battery being flat causing it to not start, and then the car battery goes flat while you're trying to diagnose that problem. I'd like something portable that can be used to *recharge* a 12 volt battery, as well as jump start if that's possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently had exactly this problem. I used a solar panel to recharge the battery, but that's quite slow and cumbersome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's one device I've seen which seems to have the feature I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Stanley P2G7S Simple Start Lithium Battery Booster](http://www.stanleytools.com/products/automotive-tools/other-tools/power-station/simple-start-lithium-ion-battery-booster/p2g7s)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ---&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When your battery is dead, just plug the booster into the 12-volt DC outlet or clamp it to the battery and the booster will start charging immediately and get you back on the road quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but unfortunately it seems to be only available in the USA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to be clear about the features I'm looking for, in priority order:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be able to *charge* a 12v car battery from flat to capable of starting in something like 5-30 minutes, even if there's some other problem preventing the car from starting.&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be a portable, small, lightweight item chargable from a normal power supply&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be available in the UK&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to jump-start a car&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge a car battery using both direct crocodile clips and accessory socket attachments&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Cost less than £100 (about $150 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge other devices (USB, 12v, 15v, 19v)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Have a built-in bright torch&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Waterproof or splash-proof&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compact-Portable-Advanced-Protection-Flashlight/dp/B011U6Q0K6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_13?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51jIu7Le7wL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=C1WRJAA76CRRJKAEK0J0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/VicTop-13600mAh-Portable-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01AK041QI/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-8000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B013UBRZKS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ccbetter-Emergency-Suitable-Flashlight-Portable/dp/B011NC28VW/ref=pd_vtph_23_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=2QKMQRWY9SWQNYEPV09P" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10144" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="7d0564e5-b173-491e-8149-2c09e7fc4227" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:31:53.713" UserId="1997" Text="Li-ion portable car battery charger that can slow-charge 12v batteries as well as jump-starting cars, available in UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="7d0564e5-b173-491e-8149-2c09e7fc4227" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:31:53.713" UserId="1997" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="c997cdb3-1712-4668-a911-d41404e3f838" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:43:12.060" UserId="1997" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="There are hundreds of &quot;portable jump starters&quot;, lithium ion battery packs with crocodile clip attachments that can be used to jump start a car. Many can also charge laptops or USB devices, or having a built-in light. Here are a few random examples: [1][1] [2][2] [3][3] [4][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem with these, and jump-starting in general, is that it's not much use if your car has some problem *other* than the battery being flat causing it to not start, and then the car battery goes flat while you're trying to diagnose that problem. I'd like something portable that can be used to *recharge* a 12 volt battery, as well as jump start if that's possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently had exactly this problem. I used a solar panel to recharge the battery, but that's quite slow and cumbersome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's one device I've seen which seems to have the feature I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Stanley P2G7S Simple Start Lithium Battery Booster](http://www.stanleytools.com/products/automotive-tools/other-tools/power-station/simple-start-lithium-ion-battery-booster/p2g7s)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ---&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When your battery is dead, just plug the booster into the 12-volt DC outlet or clamp it to the battery and the booster will start charging immediately and get you back on the road quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but unfortunately it seems to be only available in the USA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to be clear about the features I'm looking for, in priority order:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be able to *charge* a 12v car battery from flat to capable of starting in something like 5-30 minutes, even if there's some other problem preventing the car from starting.&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be a portable, small, lightweight item chargable from a normal power supply&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be available in the UK&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to jump-start a car&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge other devices (USB, 12v, 15v, 19v laptops)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge a car battery using both direct crocodile clips and accessory socket attachments&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Cost less than £100 (about $150 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Have a built-in bright torch&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Waterproof or splash-proof&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compact-Portable-Advanced-Protection-Flashlight/dp/B011U6Q0K6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_13?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51jIu7Le7wL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=C1WRJAA76CRRJKAEK0J0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/VicTop-13600mAh-Portable-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01AK041QI/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-8000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B013UBRZKS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ccbetter-Emergency-Suitable-Flashlight-Portable/dp/B011NC28VW/ref=pd_vtph_23_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=2QKMQRWY9SWQNYEPV09P" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="c997cdb3-1712-4668-a911-d41404e3f838" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:43:12.060" UserId="1997" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="Li-ion portable car battery charger that can charge 12v batteries (e.g. car batteries, but not just jump-starting cars), available in UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="9bab0487-fd42-46f3-9457-6b92e1333e38" CreationDate="2016-05-06T14:52:07.613" UserId="1997" Comment="added 205 characters in body" Text="There are hundreds of &quot;portable jump starters&quot;, lithium ion battery packs with crocodile clip attachments that can be used to jump start a car. Many can also charge laptops or USB devices, or having a built-in light. Here are a few random examples: [1][1] [2][2] [3][3] [4][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem with these, and jump-starting in general, is that it's not much use if your car has some problem *other* than the battery being flat causing it to not start, and then the car battery goes flat while you're trying to diagnose that problem. I'd like something portable that can be used to *recharge* a 12 volt battery, as well as jump start if that's possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently had exactly this problem. I used a solar panel to recharge the battery, but that's quite slow and cumbersome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's one device I've seen which seems to have the feature I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Stanley P2G7S Simple Start Lithium Battery Booster](http://www.stanleytools.com/products/automotive-tools/other-tools/power-station/simple-start-lithium-ion-battery-booster/p2g7s)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ---&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When your battery is dead, just plug the booster into the 12-volt DC outlet or clamp it to the battery and the booster will start charging immediately and get you back on the road quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but unfortunately it seems to be only available in the USA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to be clear about the features I'm looking for, in priority order:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be able to *charge* a 12v car battery from flat to capable of starting in something like 5-30 minutes, even if there's some other problem preventing the car from starting.&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be a portable, small, lightweight item chargable from a normal power supply&#xD;&#xA;- **Essential:** Be available in the UK&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to jump-start a car&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge other devices (USB, 12v, 15v, 19v laptops)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Be able to charge a car battery using both direct crocodile clips and accessory socket attachments&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Cost less than £100 (about $150 USD)&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Have a built-in bright torch&#xD;&#xA;- Desirable: Waterproof or splash-proof&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I said lithium ion in the title to give a general indication of the broad type of battery pack. I'm not too fussy about the exact chemistry, something similar like li-po (lithium polymer) would be fine (basically, not something like a bulky, heavy 5kg lead-acid type).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compact-Portable-Advanced-Protection-Flashlight/dp/B011U6Q0K6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_13?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51jIu7Le7wL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=C1WRJAA76CRRJKAEK0J0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/VicTop-13600mAh-Portable-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01AK041QI/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-8000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B013UBRZKS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462540522&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=portable%20car%20battery%20charger&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ccbetter-Emergency-Suitable-Flashlight-Portable/dp/B011NC28VW/ref=pd_vtph_23_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=2QKMQRWY9SWQNYEPV09P" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2662" RevisionGUID="ba485998-e2fc-4793-b91e-c50c0301328f" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:39:46.300" UserId="2437" Text="I am looking for a home office printer as my mother's current HP C310 has finally died completely, the print head has failed and they are unable to source replacement parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Must be capable of printing at photo quality&#xD;&#xA;* Must be multi-functional (printer and scanner)&#xD;&#xA;* The ink must be available as separate colours&#xD;&#xA;* Must not be an Epson&#xD;&#xA;* Price in the range of £100-£150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optional nice to haves would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi&#xD;&#xA;* SD card slot&#xD;&#xA;* Touch-screen display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been advised by the printer repair guy that we should consider printers with the print heads built into the cartridges, is this sound advice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2662" RevisionGUID="ba485998-e2fc-4793-b91e-c50c0301328f" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:39:46.300" UserId="2437" Text="Home Office Inkjet Printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2662" RevisionGUID="ba485998-e2fc-4793-b91e-c50c0301328f" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:39:46.300" UserId="2437" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2661" RevisionGUID="71e57c76-2b4e-4b33-aa79-3864be5b251a" CreationDate="2016-05-06T20:15:26.593" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2667" RevisionGUID="7924796e-3c8d-4d1e-b194-34b27da6e11c" CreationDate="2016-05-07T14:40:17.073" UserId="2086" Text="I go to http://comparewear.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I can compare so many things there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely need heart rate monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And bright screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking for either Samsung Gear S2 (that can connect to any android), or Microsoft Band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, my friend also recommend garmin vivoactive. Battery can be charged once every 3 weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I then go to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&amp;vs=vivoactive&amp;vs=vivoactiveHR&amp;vs=band2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There I saw that vivoactive and Garmin Vivoactive HR. is chargeable every 3 weeks. That is FAR FAR plus. I think that's what I am going to choose. It has all the features I need, like heart monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I recommend the exact same thing I am choosing. So before I go ahead and buy, please let me know if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HR model have barometer. I am not sure what it's for. But a plus. I like the look of the vivoactive normal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way I was going for Garmin Vivoactive because http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&amp;vs=vivoactive&amp;vs=vivoactiveHR&amp;vs=band2 said it has heart rate monitor. The thing is, https://www.shufflerun.com/garmin/vivoactive-hr-vs-garmin-vivoactive/ says that it's not 24/7. The heart rate monitor seems to be consuming battery. Tough choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10174" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2667" RevisionGUID="c2799c50-9ddd-48cb-8eb4-7172b658f31a" CreationDate="2016-05-07T15:06:03.670" UserId="2086" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="I go to http://comparewear.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I can compare so many things there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely need heart rate monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And bright screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking for either Samsung Gear S2 (that can connect to any android), or Microsoft Band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, my friend also recommend garmin vivoactive. Battery can be charged once every 3 weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I then go to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&amp;vs=vivoactive&amp;vs=vivoactiveHR&amp;vs=band2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There I saw that vivoactive and Garmin Vivoactive HR. is chargeable every 3 weeks. That is FAR FAR plus. I think that's what I am going to choose. It has all the features I need, like heart monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I recommend the exact same thing I am choosing. So before I go ahead and buy, please let me know if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HR model have barometer. I am not sure what it's for. But a plus. I like the look of the vivoactive normal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way I was going for Garmin Vivoactive because http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&amp;vs=vivoactive&amp;vs=vivoactiveHR&amp;vs=band2 said it has heart rate monitor. The thing is, https://www.shufflerun.com/garmin/vivoactive-hr-vs-garmin-vivoactive/ says that it's not 24/7. The heart rate monitor seems to be consuming battery. Tough choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would pick the vivoactive VR if it can last 3 weeks between charge (say by turning off 24/7 heart rate monitor). I would also prefer watch with non rechargeable battery.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2669" RevisionGUID="d84d2855-b2ca-46c1-8843-4f2519ee887d" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:58:21.370" UserId="664" Text="(Sorry for the title, but I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to home entertainment equipment)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, I got a 48&quot; TCL Roku TV to replace a 59&quot; Sony projector TV. It's pretty nice, with a good image after some fiddling and with the flexibility of the Roku software, but it has a problem; the sound leaves a lot to be desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of that, I'm thinking of saving up to get an external sound system. I figure I might as well go all-out and get some sort of 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the TV only has a 3.5mm audio jack and an optical audio out, running one of those to a surround system would be out of the question, especially since at least the 3.5mm Jack outputs terrible quality sound. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe a some sort of A/V receiver would be the best option. It would need to have 3 HDMI inputs (at least), possibly a few composite inputs, and optical audio in so that the smart features of the TV could have sound run to the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I have is a complete lack of knowledge on how to look for what I need. Do receivers have the capability of acting as a sort of switcher for the inputs, just needing one cable to the TV? Do they work as passthroughs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea how to look for one, and I don't know if this is even the right place to ask (or if I asked correctly), but I'm more than willing to completely rewrite the question if that helps anyone help me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2669" RevisionGUID="d84d2855-b2ca-46c1-8843-4f2519ee887d" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:58:21.370" UserId="664" Text="A/V receiver for HDMI, optical audio in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2669" RevisionGUID="d84d2855-b2ca-46c1-8843-4f2519ee887d" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:58:21.370" UserId="664" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="69aa33ae-7d9b-486e-a507-954a932f25c7" CreationDate="2016-05-07T20:15:03.990" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://security.stackexchange.com/questions/122577/security-camera-that-doesnt-use-a-third-party" />
  <row Id="10185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="23f81780-9653-4407-b4d9-b032f2695af2" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:35:59.610" UserDisplayName="Matteo" Text="I am looking for a security camera that I can use to view what's going on in my apartment, without having to use a third party website/app. I am currently using one that requires me to connect to a website based in China, and I don't really trust the parent company not to snoop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone point me to a good resource to buy/make a system that can do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="23f81780-9653-4407-b4d9-b032f2695af2" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:35:59.610" UserDisplayName="Matteo" Text="Security camera that doesn't use a third party" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="23f81780-9653-4407-b4d9-b032f2695af2" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:35:59.610" UserDisplayName="Matteo" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10188" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="75160548-6225-43db-b39b-8ee3c1e51bfc" CreationDate="2016-05-07T20:24:04.643" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 82 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I am looking for a security camera that I can use to view what's going on in my apartment, without having to use a third party website/app. I am currently using one that requires me to connect to a website based in China, and I don't really trust the parent company not to snoop. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10189" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="75160548-6225-43db-b39b-8ee3c1e51bfc" CreationDate="2016-05-07T20:24:04.643" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 82 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="5f1e9642-b22d-4bcc-b1ad-c1a89f816628" CreationDate="2016-05-08T00:01:32.700" UserId="2292" Text="I am looking for a USB hub to connect mouse/keyboard simultaneously to my phone while powering/charging the phone (&quot;power delivery&quot;). I would like to be able to connect one or two other peripherals, so 4-5 ports including the phone connector would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it should also be possible to use it without mains adapter too, for instance, plugging it into a computer to power it, even if it reduced performance, but this isn't essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This one][1] might work - would anybody know any other options? Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Premium-Charger-PowerPort-Delivery/dp/B01C89H12K/ref=sr_1_39?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462662623&amp;sr=8-39&amp;keywords=powered%20usb%20type%20c%20hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="5f1e9642-b22d-4bcc-b1ad-c1a89f816628" CreationDate="2016-05-08T00:01:32.700" UserId="2292" Text="Does anybody know a compact USB hub with power delivery?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="5f1e9642-b22d-4bcc-b1ad-c1a89f816628" CreationDate="2016-05-08T00:01:32.700" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2672" RevisionGUID="a6caf51c-322d-467f-bcb8-f22b2a27c79e" CreationDate="2016-05-08T03:45:50.740" UserId="40" Text="Nvidia has just announced the Nvidia GTX 1080, which is ~25% faster than the Titan X and significantly cheaper ( 600 USD vs 1000 USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From http://www.anandtech.com/show/10304/nvidia-announces-the-geforce-gtx-1080-1070/2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From some Nvidia official presentation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Nvidia GTX 1070 was also announced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gujo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wldRM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3EYWL.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HKfVd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2672" RevisionGUID="fbd68fe6-fe33-473d-9331-cece08a1119b" CreationDate="2016-05-08T18:28:22.470" UserId="40" Comment="added 376 characters in body" Text="Nvidia has just announced the Nvidia GTX 1080, which is ~25% faster than the Titan X and significantly cheaper ( 600 USD vs 1000 USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From http://www.anandtech.com/show/10304/nvidia-announces-the-geforce-gtx-1080-1070/2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From http://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-launch/:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's difficult to find exhaustive specification comparison tables between the GTX 1080 and Titan X (I guess they should appear soon). A few more comparisons GTX 1080 vs Titan X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 9 Tflops vs 6.1 Tflops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From some Nvidia official presentation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Nvidia GTX 1070 was also announced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gujo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QK61Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wldRM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3EYWL.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HKfVd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2674" RevisionGUID="b9ef535f-65d4-4886-9f49-dda92d59bb0e" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:49:03.713" UserId="2448" Text="I'm looking for a half-decent android phone with an emphasis on camera quality and autofocus. The main reason I want a cheap phone like this is for scanning 2D barcodes(Not QR Codes) with the camera. I have an application I use which uses the back facing camera to detect and scan barcodes, however, the budget phone i've tried so far has not worked at all in that respect, as the autofocus does not appear to properly provide enough quality to recognize the barcode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phone I tried to use for this purpose is the Alcatel Boost View 5.0 which was $99. It was advertised with a 5MP back camera with autofocus, however, simply does not work with the scanning of barcodes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should also mention that i'm on kind of a budget, and the phone i'm looking for ideally will be under $150 but if that's not possible I can go above that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phones i've been looking at to solve this problem are the Samsung Galaxy Core Prime and Samsung Galaxy J1 Ace. These phones are in the $150-$250 price range, but i'm not sure if they solve my problem, and i'm not sure if there is a cheaper alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone shed some light on this whole camera quality autofocus thing and maybe help me out with a recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2674" RevisionGUID="b9ef535f-65d4-4886-9f49-dda92d59bb0e" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:49:03.713" UserId="2448" Text="Budget android phone with proper autofocus(&lt;$200)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2674" RevisionGUID="b9ef535f-65d4-4886-9f49-dda92d59bb0e" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:49:03.713" UserId="2448" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2675" RevisionGUID="530e6086-5e11-4da2-9f45-58c589a9e2c2" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:52:14.473" UserId="2449" Text="I'm developing an interactive app in Unity that will be projected on a large curved wall and was curious what video card would best be suited to drive 6-8 projectors (most likely 6). I'm currently thinking of using Sony VPLFW60 projectors and my computer would be a Shuttle SZ170R8 System (i7 6700K, 32GB RAM). Would this be a performant configuration? Any insight or recommendations would be great. I'm currently looking at AMD FirePro W600 and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080. Would these options be appropriate?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2675" RevisionGUID="530e6086-5e11-4da2-9f45-58c589a9e2c2" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:52:14.473" UserId="2449" Text="Video card recommendations to drive 6-8 WXGA projectors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2675" RevisionGUID="530e6086-5e11-4da2-9f45-58c589a9e2c2" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:52:14.473" UserId="2449" Text="&lt;projector&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2676" RevisionGUID="0ece25e4-a49f-41cc-ac30-a2d77dfa8bac" CreationDate="2016-05-09T09:48:50.287" UserId="984" Text="There are the 2 contenders that I know of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo ThinkPad P50&#xD;&#xA; - HP ZBook 15 G3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these machines match the above requirements and more:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Up to QHD displays (P50 offers integrated color calibration)&#xD;&#xA; - Pro graphics&#xD;&#xA; - 6th gen Intel dual and quad core CPUs (up to XEON)&#xD;&#xA; - 2 Thunderbolt 3 ports (which also serve as USB 3.1 and video outputs)&#xD;&#xA; - PCIe X4 SSD drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the keyboard, it's like shoes, you have to try it yourself to see if it fits." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2677" RevisionGUID="a2b5c0cb-2e43-492e-a2af-9d9a6edc9c2a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:03:06.650" UserId="1190" Text="In a security assessment, the following statements were given:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Threat: Spoof a device and modify RAM to add program code and change data.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Skill: Simple training of a unskilled person&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since an unskilled person can perform the attack, I assume that the device to perform the attack is available on the market. So that's what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Mini PCIe-Card&#xD;&#xA;- allowing to copy 512 MB RAM of the host device&#xD;&#xA;- transfer the data out of the device in any kind (e.g. wireless or by storing on a SD card and then removing the Mini PCIe card again)&#xD;&#xA;- cost &lt; 500 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I'm not looking to cause a security breach, but rather the opposite: understanding the attack and performing security tests for my devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2677" RevisionGUID="a2b5c0cb-2e43-492e-a2af-9d9a6edc9c2a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:03:06.650" UserId="1190" Text="Mini-PCIe card to read RAM of a device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2677" RevisionGUID="a2b5c0cb-2e43-492e-a2af-9d9a6edc9c2a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:03:06.650" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="db554620-fd65-4dd2-b0cb-8e91606251e4" CreationDate="2016-05-09T12:50:21.900" UserId="2292" Comment="Updated spec understanding." Text="I am looking for a USB hub to connect mouse/keyboard simultaneously to my phone while powering/charging the phone (&quot;power delivery&quot;). I would like to be able to connect one or two other peripherals, so 4-5 ports including the phone connector would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it should also be possible to use it without mains adapter too, for instance, plugging it into a computer to power it, even if it reduced performance, but this isn't essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reading a bit more][1], I think it needs to support USB Power Delivery v2.0 and have a mains power option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.scientificcomputing.com/blogs/2015/01/go-fascinating-facts-about-usb-otg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10215" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2675" RevisionGUID="561b1480-84da-424f-b82c-f3ed676bee46" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:34:03.640" UserId="2449" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm developing an interactive 3D app in Unity that will be projected on a large curved wall and was curious what video card would best be suited to drive 6-8 projectors (most likely 6). I'm currently thinking of using Sony VPLFW60 projectors and my computer would be a Shuttle SZ170R8 System (i7 6700K, 32GB RAM). Would this be a performant configuration? Any insight or recommendations would be great. I'm currently looking at AMD FirePro W600 and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080. Would these options be appropriate?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="23794abe-8d8c-4794-85ff-0683c885d5d0" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:45:35.243" UserId="2292" Comment="More precise title." Text="Does anybody know a compact USB hub for a smartphone host with power delivery to the phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2680" RevisionGUID="9981a4c4-cf65-4fdb-8dd3-7b5266c9026a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:07:56.867" UserId="2092" Text="I am looking for a new mouse (for work and gaming). It should have a burst function (lots of clicks while clicking a button) and a scroll wheel which works similar like the one from the Logitech M500, where I had a button to unlock the scroll wheel, so that I can scroll a long way by just swinging the scrollwheel once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite hard to look for those specific functions in any stores, so, maybe you know a model which has those functions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest of the specs, it should be a corded mouse, maybe has some extra buttons (but not too many, like the Razer Naga for instance), should be suitable for big hands. I had the Logitech M500 until now, which I found very ergonomic, if this helps =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the features I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - burst function&#xD;&#xA; - unlock scroll wheel&#xD;&#xA; - corded&#xD;&#xA; - not too many buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate some suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10227" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2680" RevisionGUID="9981a4c4-cf65-4fdb-8dd3-7b5266c9026a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:07:56.867" UserId="2092" Text="Corded mouse with burst function and switchable scroll wheel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2680" RevisionGUID="9981a4c4-cf65-4fdb-8dd3-7b5266c9026a" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:07:56.867" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2681" RevisionGUID="5cf14fbb-d539-490d-b980-30cd62f87eef" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:13:23.723" UserId="2092" Text="I chose the combination of LD MEI 1000 and Shure SE215CL.&#xD;&#xA;The Shure device had no relevant features which would justify the price and the better headphones were a really good investment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tested and evaluated as good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2684" RevisionGUID="f6b15883-6d0e-4f07-8cd9-88736e68247c" CreationDate="2016-05-10T02:08:25.707" UserId="2437" Text="We ended up going to a local PC store today so my mother could physically examine the printers. I will give a brief run down of the printers we looked at, it may help others with their choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My mother had already decided that having an SD card was now a must rather than a nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HP**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store had a decent range of HP MFP's however none of them had all the requirements. They were missing either one or two different requirements. For example, one had 4 colour inks but was lacking the SD card slot, where as another had all the requirements but the coloured ink was in a single cartridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The build quality was pretty solid across all the models and the prices were roughly similar with a rough average of about £120.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Epson**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looked like the store had quite a range of Epson printers, many in budget or under. I tried to insist that we should at least look at them in the interests of fairness but was over-ruled. I am only mentioning them here as balance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Brother**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There were two Brother devices that met our requirements apart from build quality. The display models looked shabby and flimsy, especially considering the prices of them were quite high. That said they both made our shortlist because they could handle A3 paper. They were eventually discounted as we felt they would not stand up to regular use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The models we considered were:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [DCPJ4120DW][1] (£120)&#xD;&#xA; - [MFC-J4625DW][2] (£160)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store we went only had a single Samsung printer and a single Lexmark printer available. The Samsung did not have an SD card slot and was well out of budget and the Lexmark was a standalone printer with no scanning capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Canon**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have left Canon until last as we ultimately ended up getting a Canon device. The build quality of all the Canon's, even the sub-£50 ones, was excellent. On a similar par to HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We were also hugely impressed by the design philosophy that had been followed on the mid-range printers, they looked &quot;unprinterish&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two that made it on to our shortlist were:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Pixma MG6851][3] (£100)&#xD;&#xA;* [Pixma MG7751][4] (£150)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are almost identical printers but we ended up choosing the **Pixma MG6851**. The things that swung it were the fact it was on sale at £80 and the fewer inks. My mother was concerned that the extra &quot;grey&quot; cartridge in the MG7751 would make the ink more expensive in the long run, even though she preferred the minimalist look on the MG7751.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.brother.co.uk/printers/inkjet-printers/dcpj4120dw&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.brother.com/g/b/producttop.aspx?c=eu_ot&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=mfcj4625dw_eu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_mg6800_series/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_mg7700_series/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="b965ddec-435c-4f02-8044-1c772ce4aa16" CreationDate="2016-05-10T07:32:55.970" UserId="1366" Comment="added 701 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why change ? - My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - active speakers&#xD;&#xA; - stereo, two speaker system&#xD;&#xA; - price: ~100$ (maximum $150 but it has to be explained why it is better choice than ~$100 speakers)&#xD;&#xA; - usage: gaming, listening pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - important features: clear sound, hearable bass, volume control on speaker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I looking for ? -&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for speakers with the best sound quality in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My ideas and other recommendations:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Around $100:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][1] - $105&#xD;&#xA; - [Microlab Solo 6C New][2] - $115&#xD;&#xA; - [Logitech Z150][3] - $23 - recommended by Journeyman Geek (but I think it's not what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to $150:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1700BT][4] - $125&#xD;&#xA; - [Microlab Solo 7C New][5] - $152&#xD;&#xA; - [M-Audio AV42][6] - $148 - recommended by Journeyman Geek (AV-40 not available in my country)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for advice if I can find anything better in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.microlab.com/?r=Stereosystemen&amp;st=full&amp;id=658&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2660/1366&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1700bt-bluetooth-bookshelf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.microlab.com/?r=Stereosystemen&amp;st=full&amp;id=659&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2659/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10237" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2685" RevisionGUID="73900d49-39ae-45b0-bf73-4f08840656c3" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:16:45.060" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2686" RevisionGUID="5a3b47e8-03f5-444d-8c7b-b98865e9b334" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:16:45.060" UserId="155" Text="For questions about legacy disk drives that read floppy disks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2687" RevisionGUID="86b13c74-40e2-43b2-981b-507844e5e268" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:39:21.127" UserId="1426" Text="I'm looking to buy a new battery online for my Dell Latitude E5400 laptop. I don't want to spend on an original one because it is ridiculously expensive and I especially don't want to spend that much for an ancient laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking forward for some good suggestions from the knowledgeable ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest brands that are available to buy in India. I found some brands like - Lapguard, ARB and Gizga. Any reviews on them from users are more than welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2687" RevisionGUID="86b13c74-40e2-43b2-981b-507844e5e268" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:39:21.127" UserId="1426" Text="Good alternative for original Dell Latitude E5400 battery (India)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10241" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2687" RevisionGUID="86b13c74-40e2-43b2-981b-507844e5e268" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:39:21.127" UserId="1426" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="f0e1e570-1e4e-4f9c-ad0f-cabce38eb0dd" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:24:05.980" UserId="1893" Text="I want to use a TV that is on my bedroom with the computer, the TV has awesome quality, I am yet to see a &quot;flat&quot; TV that matches its picture quality without the price going in the 10.000 USD+ in my country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the TV has only normal analog TV inputs (YPbPr for example)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But new card manufacturers seemly are really against analog output, not only existing ones only output high resolutions (for example have a minimum resolution of 1024x768), some new ones seemly have no analog output at all (the recently launched Fury series, Skylake CPUs, and GeForce 10 line), something that introduces even worse problems (in my country analog monitors are extremely common, I for example own a laptop with HDMI and VGA out, I never used the HDMI out, while the VGA out is wearing out because of constant use).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need some way to connect my computer to a TV, without expending lots of money (ie: those 400 USD HDMI to analog converters are not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if someone (not necessarily AMD and nVidia) make new video cards that support it (better if it is PCI-e 1x, to not waste a 16x slot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or if the Sapphire 380X can do it with some adapter help... (when ATI still was named ATI, they used to sell some &quot;All in Wonder&quot; cards that could output to TV when coupled with an official DVI-I to YPbPr adapter that had some resolution dip switches)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="f0e1e570-1e4e-4f9c-ad0f-cabce38eb0dd" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:24:05.980" UserId="1893" Text="Hardware to connect PC to analog TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="f0e1e570-1e4e-4f9c-ad0f-cabce38eb0dd" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:24:05.980" UserId="1893" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2690" RevisionGUID="512a07dc-4eb6-4f85-af36-464e082a76e4" CreationDate="2016-05-11T07:51:08.717" UserId="157" Text="I need digital pricing gun to replace [manual input price gun](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Price-MX-5500-Retail-Store-Pricing/dp/B007P7Z27M). It's needed to minimize human error while entering price or labeling the wrong product. It's must have :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Barcode Scanner&#xD;&#xA; 2. Price tag printer&#xD;&#xA; 3. The pricing gun can store data product and the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the step is like this : user scan the barcode first, then the pricing gun will print the label price which is the price data stored in pricing gun.&#xD;&#xA;Is there any digital pricing gun like this ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10251" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2690" RevisionGUID="512a07dc-4eb6-4f85-af36-464e082a76e4" CreationDate="2016-05-11T07:51:08.717" UserId="157" Text="Digital Pricing Gun" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10252" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2690" RevisionGUID="512a07dc-4eb6-4f85-af36-464e082a76e4" CreationDate="2016-05-11T07:51:08.717" UserId="157" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10253" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="9bf2301f-b16d-49ad-9f3a-5a9aafb08d00" CreationDate="2016-05-11T08:04:31.750" UserId="199" Comment="improves title" Text="Compact USB hub for a smartphone host with power delivery to the phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10254" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2671" RevisionGUID="9bf2301f-b16d-49ad-9f3a-5a9aafb08d00" CreationDate="2016-05-11T08:04:31.750" Comment="Proposed by 199 approved by 1366, 2292 edit id of 454" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2687" RevisionGUID="901dc384-fc99-4d16-8427-0f7fd58f7e28" CreationDate="2016-05-11T08:53:01.940" UserId="1426" Comment="edited title" Text="Good alternative to original Dell Latitude E5400 battery (India)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2693" RevisionGUID="da3ba1bf-c726-4f58-b76e-b0fbc0494c9a" CreationDate="2016-05-11T09:57:45.440" UserId="1366" Text="I found only one solution which supports HD and DD floppies. There is no information about `ddrescue` compatibility but I couldn't find this information on any floppy drive I was checking. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Dell Professional USB Floppy Drive** - [$49.95 on floppydisk.com][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Floppy Drive][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1.44MB/720k support&#xD;&#xA; - USB interface&#xD;&#xA; - PnP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's actually quite expensive but if you want to be sure that FDD supports DD and HD diskettes you are 100% sure with this product. If you are looking for cheaper solution maybe there is possibility to find something from second hand on ebay or other like ebay portal but if price isn't to high for you I would recommend this solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**5.25&quot; thoughts:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For 5.25&quot; floppies I recommend other question because there is no FDD which supports both this formats and meets all your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.floppydisk.com/usb.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/msEUj.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10267" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1887" RevisionGUID="82c9a947-9e39-486b-ae02-52c535b8a640" CreationDate="2016-05-11T11:41:19.497" UserId="199" Comment="added 370 characters in body" Text="Dell recently came out with the [Latitude E7270 series][1] which seems ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Small and lightweight, 14&quot; or smaller, no more than 2224 grams&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;12,5&quot; display, starts at 1260 grams.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Linux support (I don't mind if it comes with Windows but every hardware component should work well under Linux too.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They come with Windows 7/10 but we have good experience running Linux on former dell Latitude models, so it's probably fine. (We have some issues with the Dell E-Port Replicators, kernel 4.5.3 freezes after docking while the notebook is sleeping.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 32GB RAM support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have 6th generation Intel Core processor which supports 32 GB of memory. The notebook has two memory slots and 16 GB modules are available but Dell says that it supports only 16 GB memory (2x8GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, my E7270 runs well with 24 GB memory. It has the original 8 GB module and a 16 GB Kingston KCP421SD8/16 module.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can handle three external displays (Currently I have three displays, all of them has DVI input and VGA too, but I'd prefer the digital one. Using DisplayPort-&gt;DVI and/or HDMI-&gt;DVI conversion cables are also fine for me.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6th generation Intel Core CPUs also support that and our Dell docking stations have three display outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Faster than my current Intel Core i5-3230M CPU @ 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can come with Intel Core i7-6600U which seems faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Matte display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anti Glare LCD seems fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Compatible with our Dell E-Port Replicators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's compatible. The packaged [Dell Docking Spacer for E7x40][2] is also handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Budget: ~$2500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price on dell.com is between $1000-$2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/latitude-e7270-ultrabook/pd&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&amp;cs=ukbsdt1&amp;sku=452-BBID" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2696" RevisionGUID="ce2aa960-27a6-4a00-a846-7ab1baf731f5" CreationDate="2016-05-11T15:12:46.867" UserId="2460" Text="I am preparing to buy a new desktop PC as the old one is 8 years already and not really upgradable. I see there are DDR4 modules running at 2133MHz and others running at 3200 MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I have seen motherboards supporting only DDR4 2133MHz, or DDR4 2133MHz + DDR4 2400+ MHz OC (like this [ASRock Z170][1]). What I understand is that in order to run at higher than 2133MHz speed, overclock is needed.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- In that case if I buy RAM module running at 3200MHz, will it simply run at 3200 MHz or it will run at 2133MHz and overclocking would be needed for greater speed.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- (depending on the answer to the question above) Is there a motheboard that supports DDR4 modules running at 3200MHz (or any greater than 2133 MHz) out of the box?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;This RAM overclocking is completely new to me and still unclear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2696" RevisionGUID="ce2aa960-27a6-4a00-a846-7ab1baf731f5" CreationDate="2016-05-11T15:12:46.867" UserId="2460" Text="Motherboard for DDR4 2400+ MHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10277" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2696" RevisionGUID="ce2aa960-27a6-4a00-a846-7ab1baf731f5" CreationDate="2016-05-11T15:12:46.867" UserId="2460" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2696" RevisionGUID="0ba759b1-8f5b-4600-a1af-54f845215f37" CreationDate="2016-05-11T16:25:52.773" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 218 characters in body" Text="I am preparing to buy a new desktop PC as the old one is 8 years already and not really upgradable. I see there are DDR4 modules running at 2133MHz and others running at 3200 MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I have seen motherboards supporting only DDR4 2133MHz, or DDR4 2133MHz + DDR4 2400+ MHz OC (like this [ASRock Z170][1]). What I understand is that in order to run at higher than 2133MHz speed, overclock is needed.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Is there a motherboard that supports DDR4 modules running at 3200MHz (or any greater than 2133 MHz) out of the box?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;This RAM overclocking is completely new to me and still unclear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2699" RevisionGUID="89aa00a9-a330-45b3-a38a-cea990584e64" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:49:52.097" UserId="1633" Text="**TL;DR version**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like hardware capable of doing these things&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Triangulate positions of nodes&#xD;&#xA;2. Be accurate down to 1-6 inches&#xD;&#xA;3. Able to see through fairly thin objects, like people/trees&#xD;&#xA;4. Fairly inexpensive (Less than $50 per)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm wanting an [Indoor Positioning System (IPS)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indoor_positioning_system#Grid_concepts) to play around with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to try, isn't actually indoors, but I've been looking for affordable ways to do it indoor or outdoor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a way for several of my friends (I'll get the friends later) to be able to stand in a field, that has nodes at three corners of this field (in order to triangular positions of any other nodes).  So, let's call these three nodes at the corners of this triangular field, master nodes.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each &quot;friend&quot; will be given a minion node (minion node = NOT master node) and the master nodes will be able to tell where the minion nodes are.  I'd like the accuracy to be as exact as possible (between 1-6 inches?).  So, let's say, each minion node had a defined coordinate that it would go to, and a light on it would turn green, and stayed red whenever they weren't in their position.  So basically they would run around to find a pre-defined position, at which point their minion node turns green.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, so I know that there's ultra wide band technology that can do this, but it's pretty expensive....Like good ones tend to be over $100 per.  I know there's some zigbee stuff that can do it too, but maybe it's not so accurate.  Also, I know GPS could match this, but I want relative positions to the master nodes...Any other ideas, or reasons the ideas stated would actually work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice is welcome...maybe something that plugs into a Raspberry Pi or Arduino?  Thanks," ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2699" RevisionGUID="89aa00a9-a330-45b3-a38a-cea990584e64" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:49:52.097" UserId="1633" Text="What's an accurate and affordable indoor positioning system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2699" RevisionGUID="89aa00a9-a330-45b3-a38a-cea990584e64" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:49:52.097" UserId="1633" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2212" RevisionGUID="41914452-5eb7-44f2-bbc6-2114f6fd041c" CreationDate="2016-05-12T02:36:34.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10292" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2108" RevisionGUID="931f46c7-cc55-4569-8210-f0a52b59be8a" CreationDate="2016-05-12T06:43:48.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="829647c2-42be-4bf2-bcb8-1fbe95529ef2" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:37:49.273" UserId="2472" Text="Looking at recommendations for a graphics card that fulfills the following spec in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual 4K (60hz) capable&#xD;&#xA; - Passive cooled&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (only business graphics required)&#xD;&#xA; - Two displayport/ mini display port connectors&#xD;&#xA; - AMD chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your input!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10301" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="829647c2-42be-4bf2-bcb8-1fbe95529ef2" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:37:49.273" UserId="2472" Text="Passive cooled graphics card for dual 4K screens" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10302" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="829647c2-42be-4bf2-bcb8-1fbe95529ef2" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:37:49.273" UserId="2472" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="7a0862d1-a7e5-4e72-baf9-127e52529a50" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:34:55.973" UserId="279" Comment="Edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="7a0862d1-a7e5-4e72-baf9-127e52529a50" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:34:55.973" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 455" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2703" RevisionGUID="51c19585-5163-4c54-8d31-f77d330ccb85" CreationDate="2016-05-12T19:11:21.477" UserId="2473" Text="Yes, there should be plenty of Z170 motherboards that support DDR4 3200 MHz memory, otherwise, memory at those speeds wouldn't be sold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at this [one][1] for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128835&amp;cm_re=z170_mobo-_-13-128-835-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As long as the specifications of the motherboard say it supports that speed, you should be fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10307" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="336" RevisionGUID="bcfe6e2d-0617-4b43-ad16-ed8a780aec39" CreationDate="2016-05-12T21:56:03.280" UserId="-1" Comment="29" />
  <row Id="10308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2705" RevisionGUID="30f613a8-6f50-45b2-8187-127238eda7a7" CreationDate="2016-05-12T23:20:02.740" UserId="2292" Text="[Ulefone Power][1] also has a ~6000mAh battery and can charge other phones/devices and is priced very reasonably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ulefone.com/products/power/features.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10309" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2706" RevisionGUID="cb008624-051c-45ef-9b54-1b2e9da215e4" CreationDate="2016-05-13T00:21:51.540" UserId="2292" Text="Important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 5&quot; size (5.5&quot; is problematic for pockets and hands).&#xD;&#xA;* CAT 4 LTE or better with bands 3/7/20 (1800/2600/800MHz).&#xD;&#xA;* Almost a given today, but 64bit CPU.&#xD;&#xA;* 3+GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;* 16+GB flash ROM.&#xD;&#xA;* SD card slot, accessible without removing back/battery.&#xD;&#xA;* IR/remote capability.&#xD;&#xA;* Stock or near-stock Android. I detest unnecessary software gimmicks.&#xD;&#xA;* Unlocked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fairly important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 3000+mAh battery, preferably removable.&#xD;&#xA;* FM radio (DAB would obviously also be OK).&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally dual SIM (shared second SIM/SD card slot acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally big.LITTLE CPU design with the big/fast cores being out of order execution ARM v8.&#xD;&#xA;* Good WiFi (dual band?) as it will work as home internet/router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unimportant:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Cameras.&#xD;&#xA;* High screen resolution - 720x1280 is fine.&#xD;&#xA;* CPU clock frequencies.&#xD;&#xA;* Thin/fancy/too light design. Solid is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ulefone Power looks good (battery fixed, but large), if only it wasn't so big.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LG G5 also looks reasonable, except battery is a bit small, screen resolution is unnecessarily high and it is still rather big. Oh, and 4 times the price of the Ulefone(!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any better ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2706" RevisionGUID="cb008624-051c-45ef-9b54-1b2e9da215e4" CreationDate="2016-05-13T00:21:51.540" UserId="2292" Text="Stock Android phone with IR and FM radio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2706" RevisionGUID="cb008624-051c-45ef-9b54-1b2e9da215e4" CreationDate="2016-05-13T00:21:51.540" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="62700740-1936-413b-9eb6-45dc2830d030" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:00:09.723" UserId="1366" Comment="30" />
  <row Id="10314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="3cc01bdd-45e2-4418-b69d-110fa1e6581b" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:21:05.630" UserId="2455" Text="I am looking for some device which offers an API to specify the Voltage Output of an USB Port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So actually I want to give Power to some hardware by the USB Port and I want to specify on the PC if I want, for example, 1V or 5V. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somehow google results only in devices to meassure the amperage of the usb port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope it is somehow understandable, I am quite new to SE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="3cc01bdd-45e2-4418-b69d-110fa1e6581b" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:21:05.630" UserId="2455" Text="Specify Output Voltage of a USB Tongle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="3cc01bdd-45e2-4418-b69d-110fa1e6581b" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:21:05.630" UserId="2455" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2708" RevisionGUID="52481198-2bda-4672-8101-1640ef9ecfea" CreationDate="2016-05-13T07:01:40.850" UserId="1366" Text="Personally I think that it is more technical support question but  I will say few words about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Explanation:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Super user explanation what OC memory in MOBO description means.][1]&#xD;&#xA; - What does it mean for you ? It means that your motherboard will support memory up to 3600 MHz in dual-channel and up to 3866 MHz in single-channel. You have to load RAM [XMP profile][2] and it will work with desired frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My proposition:**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; [ASRock Z170 Extreme7+][3] is very good motherboard but only if you want overclock your new setup if not [Z170 chipset][4] will give you only support for higher frequency RAM what won't give proportional efficiency to the price paid for it. So if you won't overclock you should look for motherboards on [H110][5] or [B150][6] chipset and 2133 Mhz RAM with lowest CL.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B150 recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [B150M MORTAR][7] - [$90 on newegg.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;H110 recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [H110M PRO-VD][9] - [$56 on newegg.com][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/a/560832/564989&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/extreme-memory-profile-xmp.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90591&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90592/Intel-GL82B150-PCH&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://msi.com/Motherboard/B150M-MORTAR.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130890&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2702" RevisionGUID="e00a7f71-b593-416f-91da-81a4cf0b269c" CreationDate="2016-05-13T07:53:11.550" UserId="1366" Comment="Deleted &quot;Thanks&quot; at the end." Text="Looking at recommendations for a graphics card that fulfills the following spec in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual 4K (60hz) capable&#xD;&#xA; - Passive cooled&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (only business graphics required)&#xD;&#xA; - Two displayport/ mini display port connectors&#xD;&#xA; - AMD chipset&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="a8c62420-5f21-45d5-a7f0-f34c94475bed" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:12:35.360" UserId="1683" Comment="copy editing" Text="I am looking for some device which offers an API to specify the voltage output of an USB port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So actually I want to give power to some hardware by the USB Port and I want to specify on the PC if I want, for example, 1V or 5V. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somehow google results only in devices to measure the amperage of the usb port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope it is somehow understandable, I am quite new to SE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="a8c62420-5f21-45d5-a7f0-f34c94475bed" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:12:35.360" UserId="1683" Comment="copy editing" Text="Specify Output Voltage of a USB Dongle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10321" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2707" RevisionGUID="a8c62420-5f21-45d5-a7f0-f34c94475bed" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:12:35.360" Comment="Proposed by 1683 approved by 1366, 2455 edit id of 456" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="62dbd151-74f5-4bb1-82f0-cb62e8c9aad1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:12:36.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="d321f4f2-10c1-4570-b77d-fa22cfeeb11e" CreationDate="2016-05-13T14:45:08.257" UserId="2086" Text="Basically I bought a pair of omni 10 speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sounds are great. However, the audio latency is 1000ms. I am using bluetooth to connect. Omni 10 doesn't have aptx.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want to connect to my omni speakers using regular 3.5 mm. However, I don't want to use 3 m normal audio to connect my PC to OMNI 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want my PC to connect to a wifi that then connect to the speaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can that be done? Will that reduce audio latency?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10328" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="d321f4f2-10c1-4570-b77d-fa22cfeeb11e" CreationDate="2016-05-13T14:45:08.257" UserId="2086" Text="I need a tool that can convert any speakers into wifi speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="d321f4f2-10c1-4570-b77d-fa22cfeeb11e" CreationDate="2016-05-13T14:45:08.257" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="a06b47b0-cf93-4a3f-a633-4f6aad23d504" CreationDate="2016-05-13T16:46:24.880" UserId="2086" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="Basically I bought a pair of omni 10 speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sounds are great. However, the audio latency is 1000ms. I am using bluetooth to connect. Omni 10 doesn't have aptx.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want to connect my pc to my omni speakers using regular 3.5 mm. However, I don't want to use 3 m normal audio cable to connect my PC to OMNI 10. Doing so results in high delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want my PC to connect to a wifi that then connect to the speaker using 3.5 mm cable. Is that even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can that be done? Will that reduce audio latency?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it should turn any speakers with 3.5mm input into wireless speakers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="a95e24fc-1c9b-48b9-855d-5cabf8a7e0d2" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:00:24.240" UserId="2086" Comment="added 327 characters in body" Text="Basically I bought a pair of omni 10 speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sounds are great. However, the audio latency is 1000ms. I am using bluetooth to connect. Omni 10 doesn't have aptx.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want to connect my pc to my omni speakers using regular 3.5 mm. However, I don't want to use 3 m normal audio cable to connect my PC to OMNI 10. Doing so results in high delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want my PC to connect to a wifi that then connect to the speaker using 3.5 mm cable. Is that even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can that be done? Will that reduce audio latency?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it should turn any speakers with 3.5mm input into wireless speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update searching for turn speakers into wireless speakers yield this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.wired.com/2014/08/bluetooth-audio-adapters/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That sort of works. The problem is I already connect my omni 10 with bluetooth. I want to reduce the latency. I have also heard that streaming audio via wifi is much better than via bluetooth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2710" RevisionGUID="5da0538b-28ae-4c0b-8f62-25038c826280" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:06:41.133" UserId="2086" Comment="added 236 characters in body" Text="Basically I bought a pair of omni 10 speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sounds are great. However, the audio latency is 1000ms. I am using bluetooth to connect. Omni 10 doesn't have aptx.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want to connect my pc to my omni speakers using regular 3.5 mm. However, I don't want to use 3 m normal audio cable to connect my PC to OMNI 10. Doing so results in high delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want my PC to connect to a wifi that then connect to the speaker using 3.5 mm cable. Is that even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can that be done? Will that reduce audio latency?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it should turn any speakers with 3.5mm input into wireless speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update searching for turn speakers into wireless speakers yield this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.wired.com/2014/08/bluetooth-audio-adapters/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That sort of works. The problem is I already connect my omni 10 with bluetooth. I want to reduce the latency. I have also heard that streaming audio via wifi is much better than via bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I &quot;suspected&quot; that this is what I need http://audioengineusa.com/Store/W3-Wireless-Audio-Adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it? I am not sure. It seems to use wifi. We connect something to computer with USB and then it plugs to my speakers using 3.5 mm." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2711" RevisionGUID="615050b4-342a-4bc0-8acb-95bcf87d4467" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:30:35.927" UserId="2478" Text="Have you considered **Vizio** TV's? I am not sure if they are available in your country but they would fulfill all your requirements and you might even come in under your budget!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could most **definitely** get a **50&quot; FHD** (or 1080p) Vizio television for ~$800, but you *may* also be able to get an **M-Series Vizio**, this being their **4K model**, for around $800. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vizio has **Wi-Fi** and is **DLNA** compatible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **refresh rate** is **120Hz** which is the recommended minimum for Gaming, Sports etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **input lag** is **great** with Vizio as they offer a **Gaming mode** which reduces input lag. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also **VESA** mountable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although the television isn't **3D**, it does have  a **Full-Array backlight** with **local-dimming**. This translates to brighter colors and darker blacks with less light bleeding through in darker areas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I worked at a Best Buy very recently and these are my TV's of choice as far as budget, quality, and feature set are concerned. Definitely worth a look!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2712" RevisionGUID="d6bb2465-06d4-4336-aa39-7122de41d9ee" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:40:02.043" UserId="2478" Text="If I am understanding your question correctly, check out [Chromecast Audio][1]. It might solve your problems. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as latency is concerned there shouldn't be *much*, but it is very hard to know the answer to this portion of the question without knowing all the variables, and there are **A LOT** when it comes to wireless frequencies, as I am sure you are aware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.ca/chromecast/speakers/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2713" RevisionGUID="1cfa05ac-a4b7-4ea6-b459-7947f2e53dcc" CreationDate="2016-05-13T22:31:36.597" UserId="2156" Text="Must not have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- smart features (Android, WebOS etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- webcam and mic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Between 55&quot; and 65&quot; panel&#xD;&#xA;- 4k (2160p) resolution&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 HDMI inputs&#xD;&#xA;- Reaction time good enough for games&#xD;&#xA;- VESA mount&#xD;&#xA;- Decent upscaler&#xD;&#xA;- Available as factory new device on the European market&#xD;&#xA;- Price under 2000€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Scart and composite input for old consoles&#xD;&#xA;- Ambient light&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers with acceptable quality&#xD;&#xA;- Picture-in-Picture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any antenna interfaces and tuners&#xD;&#xA;- 3D&#xD;&#xA;- Network interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use cases:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Play back any media via connected media center PC&#xD;&#xA;- Play games via steam on PC&#xD;&#xA;- Connect any kind of consoles from PS4 to NES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trivia:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I'm aware that's not very likely that I'll get a super good panel for this price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2713" RevisionGUID="1cfa05ac-a4b7-4ea6-b459-7947f2e53dcc" CreationDate="2016-05-13T22:31:36.597" UserId="2156" Text="55&quot; 4k moving picture display device without bells and whistles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10338" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2713" RevisionGUID="1cfa05ac-a4b7-4ea6-b459-7947f2e53dcc" CreationDate="2016-05-13T22:31:36.597" UserId="2156" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2714" RevisionGUID="433c5bea-3bd0-4f69-a7c3-2a7aabcc7331" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:54:32.877" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a device that would allow me to remotely hard reboot my computer. The device could use either wired or wireless Internet connection. I just need to be able to remotely ask it to hard reboot the computer (i.e., physically pressing the power button)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10341" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2714" RevisionGUID="433c5bea-3bd0-4f69-a7c3-2a7aabcc7331" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:54:32.877" UserId="40" Text="Remote hard reboot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10342" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2714" RevisionGUID="433c5bea-3bd0-4f69-a7c3-2a7aabcc7331" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:54:32.877" UserId="40" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2716" RevisionGUID="8ee2721f-567b-4d47-888d-7c53e3179885" CreationDate="2016-05-14T09:29:14.057" UserId="2474" Text="Not sure if there are 100% open source commercial products out there, but here is an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you consider to set up for example a Raspberry Pi + USB webcam combo? I've had one running for about two years now, capturing and saving a JPG image once / minute. That would cost 50 - 100 USD depending on what components are used. However the system has not been 100% reliable and every now and then I've had to re-plug the USB camera in (YMMV).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have published bash + PHP based scripts at [Github][1], utilizing [v4l-utils][2]. I have also [blogged][3] about it. It is internet-accessible with authentication and HTTPS encryption online on my &quot;private&quot; domain (just storing it on hosts files). I understand this takes some engineering effort, NAT port forwarding etc. but nothing that complex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This doesn't provide video but it might not be needed to observe &quot;what's going on in my apartment&quot;. I'm sure there are other solutions out there but I like building my own stuff and customize for my preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/nikonyrh/webcammon/blob/master/bin/grabFrame.sh&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/V4l-utils&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://nikonyrh.github.io/webcammon.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10346" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2603" RevisionGUID="83f8f0ea-eafb-4858-ad18-ede0a5713c87" CreationDate="2016-05-14T10:48:14.313" UserId="-1" Comment="31" />
  <row Id="10347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2714" RevisionGUID="2e57962c-b2ef-4703-8cab-e52b02b357b8" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:34:02.763" UserId="40" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking for a device that would allow me to remotely hard reboot my computer. The device could use either wired or wireless Internet connection. I just need to be able to remotely ask it to hard reboot the computer (e.g., physically pressing the power button)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2717" RevisionGUID="78f59c16-aae0-4443-8f1b-7dec91aa309f" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:17:43.780" UserId="2480" Text="I am looking for a new Display Port cable for my [Asus ROG SWIFT PG279Q][1] monitor.  It has to work at 2560x1440 @ 165Hz and that is only possible with DisplayPort, however not all DP cables support this higher frequency.  Can anyone recommend a cable, store, brand, or something? I want to get my monitor working as best it can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My second question is I do not see a lot of DP cables labeled which version they are such as 1.1, 1.2, or 1.3; do the cables not make a difference and just go on what version displayport ports are on the two devices? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2717" RevisionGUID="78f59c16-aae0-4443-8f1b-7dec91aa309f" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:17:43.780" UserId="2480" Text="Displayport 1.3 cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2717" RevisionGUID="78f59c16-aae0-4443-8f1b-7dec91aa309f" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:17:43.780" UserId="2480" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2717" RevisionGUID="ef9a1999-10a1-44e0-a5b4-7660478a045a" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:38:29.657" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 251 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new Display Port cable for my [Asus ROG SWIFT PG279Q][1] monitor.  It has to work at 2560x1440 @ 165Hz and that is only possible with DisplayPort, however not all DP cables support this higher frequency.  Can anyone recommend a cable? I want to get my monitor working as best it can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="c631dbdb-12a5-4509-8e4f-721f3e760278" CreationDate="2016-05-15T05:16:56.100" UserId="2489" Text="I would like to buy new memories to my PC desktop. My ASUS motherboard model is P8H61-M LE/BR. I've got the following information in the [ASUS site][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2 x DIMM, Max. 16GB, DDR3 1333/1066 Hz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Dual Channel Memory Architecture Supports Intel® Extreme Memory&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Profile (XMP)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * The maximum 16GB memory capacity can be supported with 8GB or above DIMMs. ASUS will update the memory QVL once the DIMMs are available in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to buy two 8GB memories in order to have 16GB in my PC. I've found these ones on the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Site 1][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Site 2][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Site 3][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So are these memories compatible with my PC? Are some of these memories better than others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8H61M_LEUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8GB-Kingston-KVR1333D3N9-8G-DDR3-PC3-10600-1333MHz-CL9-240pin-Desktop-DIMM-/141992691627?hash=item210f6c87ab:g:fbwAAOSwYmZXNw~0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-1x-8GB-DDR3-PC3-10600U-1333Mhz-non-ECC-desktop-memory-PAREEMA-for-desktop-PC-/141823346926?hash=item21055488ee:g:n5MAAOSwhcJWQBBp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dx.com/p/kingston-valueram-8gb-1333mhz-ddr3-non-ecc-cl9-dimm-desktop-memory-kvr1333d3n9-8g-852319631#.VzgBS77eM1w" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="c631dbdb-12a5-4509-8e4f-721f3e760278" CreationDate="2016-05-15T05:16:56.100" UserId="2489" Text="This RAM memory is compatible with this motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="c631dbdb-12a5-4509-8e4f-721f3e760278" CreationDate="2016-05-15T05:16:56.100" UserId="2489" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="bb0de6d0-9825-4df5-9078-216279370cb0" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:15:43.993" UserId="279" Comment="Grammar, tags" Text="I would like to buy new memory for my PC desktop. My ASUS motherboard model is P8H61-M LE/BR. I've got the following information in the [ASUS site][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2 x DIMM, Max. 16GB, DDR3 1333/1066 Hz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Dual Channel Memory Architecture Supports Intel® Extreme Memory&#xD;Profile (XMP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&gt; The maximum 16GB memory capacity can be supported with 8GB or above DIMMs. ASUS will update the memory QVL once the DIMMs are available in&#xD;the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to buy two 8GB RAM sticks in order to have 16GB in my PC. I've found these ones on the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Site 1][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Site 2][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Site 3][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So is this memory compatible with my PC? Are some of them better than others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8H61M_LEUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8GB-Kingston-KVR1333D3N9-8G-DDR3-PC3-10600-1333MHz-CL9-240pin-Desktop-DIMM-/141992691627?hash=item210f6c87ab:g:fbwAAOSwYmZXNw~0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-1x-8GB-DDR3-PC3-10600U-1333Mhz-non-ECC-desktop-memory-PAREEMA-for-desktop-PC-/141823346926?hash=item21055488ee:g:n5MAAOSwhcJWQBBp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dx.com/p/kingston-valueram-8gb-1333mhz-ddr3-non-ecc-cl9-dimm-desktop-memory-kvr1333d3n9-8g-852319631#.VzgBS77eM1w" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="bb0de6d0-9825-4df5-9078-216279370cb0" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:15:43.993" UserId="279" Comment="Grammar, tags" Text="Is this memory compatible with this motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10369" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="bb0de6d0-9825-4df5-9078-216279370cb0" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:15:43.993" UserId="279" Comment="Grammar, tags" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10370" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2721" RevisionGUID="bb0de6d0-9825-4df5-9078-216279370cb0" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:15:43.993" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 54, 1366 edit id of 457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="5382d331-5a3d-4013-aad1-5584234cebb7" CreationDate="2016-05-16T05:16:53.987" UserId="1364" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="**C'mon, you can't have a 3.5 inch Android phone.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the trend is toward phones with large and better displays. Manufacturers care less about the compactness of the phone. It is quite difficult to find phones with a smaller display. As of now there are no new stock Android phones, but there are few other options if you are ready to sacrifice few aspects of the phone you want to own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1: The Moto G Generation 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compact and small at 4.7in and has an awesome display. It is very comfortable to hold and single-handed operation is awesome. The best part is that it runs **stock Android** out of the box and got updates for Android 5.1.1. I personally prefer the latest version, 6.0.1 Marshmallow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**:- I'd say it's the perfect bang for the buck you get for what you pay. The battery is average; it's not great nor is it bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2: The J series by Samsung**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the J2 as it is the smallest of the J series at 4.7in with pretty decent specs and an awesome AMOLED display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**: It is not high-end and runs Touch Wiz which is, according to me, not good and uses too much RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to forget the fact that you want an Android phone, then I'd suggest you go for the new iPhone 6S. If you still want to have an Android phone, by sacrificing compactness you can go for the Moto Turbo (1 or 2) or the Samsung flagship S6, Note 5 (you can always flash them to stock Android or use custom launchers)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10381" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2724" RevisionGUID="e348a860-034c-4cdc-97af-b59c57d37a14" CreationDate="2016-05-16T11:31:55.073" UserId="2494" Text="I need a single board computer, on which I can easily learn bare-bone OS programming. In particular I need something like Raspberry PI, but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - execution power must be circa about Raspberry Pi 3&#xD;&#xA; - must have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth built on board&#xD;&#xA; - must have very very good documentation (best if hardware was open source also)&#xD;&#xA; - architecture should be multicore ARM or multicore Intel (generation does not matter)&#xD;&#xA; - must also have possibility to use board to control external devices ( should have couple of GPIOs, some SPI communication etc.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2724" RevisionGUID="e348a860-034c-4cdc-97af-b59c57d37a14" CreationDate="2016-05-16T11:31:55.073" UserId="2494" Text="hardware board to learn OS programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10383" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2724" RevisionGUID="e348a860-034c-4cdc-97af-b59c57d37a14" CreationDate="2016-05-16T11:31:55.073" UserId="2494" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2725" RevisionGUID="c3d8c0ab-acce-40a8-87cf-1debb3af022f" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:05:48.410" UserId="2478" Text="As long as you have DDR3 Memory at the right speed you'll be fine, as this is what your motherboard specifies. All three of the RAM modules you listed would work perfectly fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Brand names don't *necessarily* matter, but I've tended to have better luck (and customer service) with well known brands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want to keep an eye out for latency and clock speed if you're really gung-ho about getting the most speed. The CL or CAS latency numbers are what you look at here, but often the difference in latency is so small that there really is no discernible difference. The lower the latency, the better, in essence. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were you and I had a choice between those three, I'd choose either of the Kingston branded ones. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2726" RevisionGUID="3832a09d-8733-42e3-9717-b5526d3df8e6" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:53:56.230" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="You can always use an IP camera. Ex: http://foscam.us/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not the best quality but it usually does the trick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IP cameras usually run their own web server so you can just open up a browser tab and type in the camera's IP ex: 192.168.0.133 or something and you will be able to see what the camera sees. And if you get a camera that can move than you will also be able to Zoom and tilt from the browser tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next step would be to set up a VPN in your apartment. I like to use OpenVPN, it has worked well for me. there are a ton of tutorials how to set one up on a RasPi 2-3. Just connect to your VPN and then go to your IP camera's page and you should be good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you only need one camera than you can use: https://www.milestonesys.com/our-products/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One camera License is free. Thats what i use and its pretty robust. Do note that you will need a computer for this. A NUC or Brix should do well, I understand that might be expensive. Thats why its not totally needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2713" RevisionGUID="3db403f8-cd47-4371-951f-b68fad2fc391" CreationDate="2016-05-17T13:38:03.057" UserId="2156" Comment="Added my attitudes in the trivia" Text="Must not have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- smart features (Android, WebOS etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- webcam and mic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Between 55&quot; and 65&quot; panel&#xD;&#xA;- 4k (2160p) resolution&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3 HDMI inputs&#xD;&#xA;- Reaction time good enough for games&#xD;&#xA;- VESA mount&#xD;&#xA;- Decent upscaler&#xD;&#xA;- Available as factory new device on the European market&#xD;&#xA;- Price under 2000€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Scart and composite input for old consoles&#xD;&#xA;- Ambient light&#xD;&#xA;- Speakers with acceptable quality&#xD;&#xA;- Picture-in-Picture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any antenna interfaces and tuners&#xD;&#xA;- 3D&#xD;&#xA;- Network interfaces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use cases:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Play back any media via connected media center PC&#xD;&#xA;- Play games via steam on PC&#xD;&#xA;- Connect any kind of consoles from PS4 to NES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trivia:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I'm aware that's not very likely that I'll get a super good panel for this price&#xD;&#xA;- My main concern is that all this TV software seems very fragile so I don't want to risk the leakage of any data. I guess that it could be secure enough to just not use insecure features like build-in network and antenna interfaces.&#xD;&#xA;- I also tend to express my disapproval against such technologies by not buying it at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2731" RevisionGUID="a98cf311-d2f5-457c-801d-5ba06a3c4488" CreationDate="2016-05-17T14:53:54.483" UserId="2503" Text="You can use a raspberry pi or something similar and control a gpio pin of the board remotely. The gpio pin should be attached to an optocoupler ic. With the proper wiring of your button cables to the optocoupler you can hard reset,power on or off the pc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2733" RevisionGUID="35b1c48f-aaf3-4d50-898d-9c373b84f8c8" CreationDate="2016-05-17T18:54:48.740" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="I'd post as a comment but I can't do that.  What about the Orange Pi?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.orangepi.org/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ARM &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Open Source &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Docs might be lacking though &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Can control things" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2734" RevisionGUID="d5dcdc3c-0dc0-4f7f-915b-382389b6cacc" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:25:20.627" UserId="2505" Text="Heyo. Here's my situation: I'm looking for a laptop basically acting as a mobile workstation extension for my home computer. For what it matters, I'm doing mainly programming and college work as well as the occasional match of League of Legends with friends (fairly low requirements). Because of the programming part, I've went for a 4k display which has paid off for sure. I'm just so much more efficient with it than with a standard FullHD monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Enough about the past, here's what I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- working between and sometimes during classes in college on fairly basic tasks like completing homework and studying (pdf and browser)&#xD;&#xA;- programming. Being able to quickly try something on the go after discussing it is important to me (which is why I'm looking for a laptop in the first place)&#xD;&#xA;- concerning the finish, I'd much prefer something with an emphasis on usability, meaning not too heavy, not too fragile. I don't like having to worry about 1) whether to bring it because it's too heavy or 2) where to put it in order not to break it&#xD;&#xA;- I like to think of myself as a creative person and I learn visually, so having a touch screen is something I think will be worth a lot to what I do and how I do it&#xD;&#xA;- as I said, the occasional match of League of Legends, but no serious gaming and I quite frankly don't care whether it runs on medium or high settings&#xD;&#xA;- 2 in 1. Because it's cool. Not because I necessarily need it :P&#xD;&#xA;- I plan on doing most (programming) work remotely via some kind of screen forwarding&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which leads me to what is probably most important (**tl;dr**), the requirement list in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 in 1&#xD;&#xA;- full HD with on a screen size between 12&quot;/13&quot; and 15&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- goooood battery, &gt;5h of realistic usage&#xD;&#xA;- reliable and light case&#xD;&#xA;- a usable network adapter&#xD;&#xA;- i5+ is desirable, not a precondition though&#xD;&#xA;- SSD or SSHD is a bonus&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB of RAM (should be no problem anyways)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Closing words.** I'm asking here because I'm mainly concerned about usability and the overall quality of the thing, including battery for example. Those are things you can't just look up on a comparison website. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget is somewhere roughly between 700 and 1000 Euros, which should translate into about 800 to 1150 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things on my (probably incomplete) list right now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Lenovo Yoga 2 13&#xD;&#xA;- Lenovo Yoga 3 14&#xD;&#xA;- Lenovo Yoga 700 14ISK&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Aspire R5&#xD;&#xA;- ASUS Transformer Book Flip&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are (hopefully most of the) devices which meet the formal part requirements and are available at my budget range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10414" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2734" RevisionGUID="d5dcdc3c-0dc0-4f7f-915b-382389b6cacc" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:25:20.627" UserId="2505" Text="high quality finish, 2 in 1 laptop for (remote) college work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10415" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2734" RevisionGUID="d5dcdc3c-0dc0-4f7f-915b-382389b6cacc" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:25:20.627" UserId="2505" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2737" RevisionGUID="2f940cbc-8b6f-490e-99bd-433706aadb47" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:41:39.877" UserId="1410" Text="I am developing a system to register visitors. The visitors wear a wristband containing an NFC rag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to read the tag, I am currently using a cheap Samsung Android 'phone, with built in NFC reader, which costs around GBP 60 / Eur 77 / USD 87.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering replacing the 'phone with a Raspberry Pi and am thinking about an NFC reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I _could _ use a shield, and am open to recommendations, but it always seems uncomfortable tapping a 'phone to someone's wrist and I doubt that tapping a Pi would feel any more comfortable (especially if the Pi is wired for mains power).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a cheap wand, or other device, which can be connected to the Pi for a less awkward scan of the wristband?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget will play a role in this, but I am not yet sure how much of a role (sorry)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2737" RevisionGUID="2f940cbc-8b6f-490e-99bd-433706aadb47" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:41:39.877" UserId="1410" Text="NFC wand (or shield, or other) for Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10427" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2737" RevisionGUID="2f940cbc-8b6f-490e-99bd-433706aadb47" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:41:39.877" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10428" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2675" RevisionGUID="7d356323-7a15-4388-8c5c-67c25f7d8e2e" CreationDate="2016-05-18T13:05:08.677" UserId="57" Comment="pull comments into question" Text="I'm developing an interactive 3D app in Unity that will be projected on a large curved wall and was curious what video card would best be suited to drive 6-8 projectors (most likely 6). I'm currently thinking of using Sony VPLFW60 projectors and my computer would be a Shuttle SZ170R8 System (i7 6700K, 32GB RAM). Would this be a performant configuration? Any insight or recommendations would be great. I'm currently looking at AMD FirePro W600 and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080. Would these options be appropriate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The interactive app with be a 3D app, and it will be skinning meshes on the fly which will involve shaders. I looked into Unity's use of the GPU and it says that Unity will use the NVIDIA GPU for PhysX as well as for Shaders." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10430" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="6cfa2045-113e-4ab6-9d76-02a8076b94aa" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:46:14.250" UserId="2510" Text="I am a developer, I mostly develop web applications (Fullstack JavaScript) and Websites (Mainly WordPress). And use tools like Git, Vagrant (And other kinds of virtualizations), Photoshop, Browser open with lots of tabs. Most often lightweight IDEs like Atom but it happens that I use more heavy IDEs like Webstorm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am now looking after a new laptop too buy. I dont want a MacBook and I have been thinking about some of the Laptops from Lenovos Yoga (2016) Series. But I am not enirly sure about this, mainly because I will dual-boot Windows with Ubuntu (Linux) and I will probably spend more time in Ubuntu then Windows. So a computer that has touch screen does not feel that optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would like some recommendations/advices on Laptop that are good for my purpose. I am looking for something around the 800-1400USD price range with SSD and good amount of RAM and a 14&quot; screen. But most importantly I want something that &quot;just works&quot; in other words I want a Laptop that I can be happy with and that does not come with 102 different bugs and issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10431" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="6cfa2045-113e-4ab6-9d76-02a8076b94aa" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:46:14.250" UserId="2510" Text="What laptop should I buy? (Web Developer, Linux)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10432" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="6cfa2045-113e-4ab6-9d76-02a8076b94aa" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:46:14.250" UserId="2510" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2741" RevisionGUID="643b6285-d2f4-4a9d-8ebc-15ad5708349a" CreationDate="2016-05-19T02:17:16.103" UserId="531" Text="The specific model's going to dependent on the style of plug you have locally. Depending on your specific needs, there's two options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used either of these personally (but I've been looking at them) but if you wanted a prebuilt minimal fuss wireless setup, belkin's WeMo has decent/mixed reviews. Their website is *terrible* but you're looking for something like [this][1] for your local voltage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lower cost option would be a rf controlled plug - [this would be something similar to what I'd look][2] for but once again, your exact options would depend on your local voltages and plugs. Quite a few folks have modded these for rpi control by rewiring the remote. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.belkin.com/us/F7C029/p/P-F7C029/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightwaveRF-Wireless-Control-Electrical-Devices/dp/B00ATY2R80" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1887" RevisionGUID="89192c64-13e9-45a0-843e-ea3f1b5a1221" CreationDate="2016-05-19T13:03:13.237" UserId="199" Comment="the second 16GB module has been arrived" Text="Dell recently came out with the [Latitude E7270 series][1] which seems ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Small and lightweight, 14&quot; or smaller, no more than 2224 grams&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;12,5&quot; display, starts at 1260 grams.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Linux support (I don't mind if it comes with Windows but every hardware component should work well under Linux too.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They come with Windows 7/10 but we have good experience running Linux on former dell Latitude models, so it's probably fine. (We have some issues with the Dell E-Port Replicators, kernel 4.5.3 freezes after docking while the notebook is sleeping.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 32GB RAM support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have 6th generation Intel Core processor which supports 32 GB of memory. The notebook has two memory slots and 16 GB modules are available but Dell says that it supports only 16 GB memory (2x8GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, my E7270 (as well as my colleague's E7470) runs well with 32 GB memory. It has two 16 GB Kingston KCP421SD8/16 modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can handle three external displays (Currently I have three displays, all of them has DVI input and VGA too, but I'd prefer the digital one. Using DisplayPort-&gt;DVI and/or HDMI-&gt;DVI conversion cables are also fine for me.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6th generation Intel Core CPUs also support that and our Dell docking stations have three display outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Faster than my current Intel Core i5-3230M CPU @ 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can come with Intel Core i7-6600U which seems faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Matte display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anti Glare LCD seems fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Compatible with our Dell E-Port Replicators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's compatible. The packaged [Dell Docking Spacer for E7x40][2] is also handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Budget: ~$2500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price on dell.com is between $1000-$2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/latitude-e7270-ultrabook/pd&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&amp;cs=ukbsdt1&amp;sku=452-BBID" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2747" RevisionGUID="27dbee35-3940-473c-8f80-d498a7a10ca5" CreationDate="2016-05-19T14:20:14.627" UserId="2517" Text="On my motherboard no SATA3 controller. I want to purchase a separate high-quality controller that can simultaneously process 4 SSD drives at maximum speed and performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required the controller to operate simultaneously at a speed of 6 Gbps on each port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(RAID function is not needed)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2747" RevisionGUID="27dbee35-3940-473c-8f80-d498a7a10ca5" CreationDate="2016-05-19T14:20:14.627" UserId="2517" Text="PCI-e SATA III controller with 4 ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2747" RevisionGUID="27dbee35-3940-473c-8f80-d498a7a10ca5" CreationDate="2016-05-19T14:20:14.627" UserId="2517" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1720" RevisionGUID="0b156999-c23f-4dd6-a7dc-68bf4abb77b2" CreationDate="2016-05-20T07:39:05.040" UserId="226" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a WLAN-Router with integrated DSL-Modem (ADSL) which is supported by OpenWRT. Currently running a TP-Link WR4300 which is not having DSL integrated. The provider is suggesting FRITZ!Box 7490 (ADSL 2+ (ITU G.992.5) Annex B) but I really don't want to have non free (as in Freedom) hardware at this part of my home network.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2737" RevisionGUID="943ce919-5435-494a-9b0b-0db005a44f3d" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:34:24.990" UserId="39" Comment="Fixed typos" Text="I am developing a system to register visitors. The visitors wear a wristband containing an NFC tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to read the tag, I am currently using a cheap Samsung Android phone, with built in NFC reader, which costs around GBP 60 / Eur 77 / USD 87.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering replacing the phone with a Raspberry Pi and am thinking about an NFC reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I _could_ use a shield, and am open to recommendations, but it always seems uncomfortable tapping a phone to someone's wrist and I doubt that tapping a Pi would feel any more comfortable (especially if the Pi is wired for mains power).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a cheap wand, or other device, which can be connected to the Pi for a less awkward scan of the wristband?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget will play a role in this, but I am not yet sure how much of a role (sorry)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10484" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2737" RevisionGUID="943ce919-5435-494a-9b0b-0db005a44f3d" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:34:24.990" Comment="Proposed by 39 approved by 1410 edit id of 459" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="697" RevisionGUID="efa01df7-7203-4f64-b705-b96b18e02976" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:14:40.580" UserId="1885" Comment="Split adjacent links." Text="My serial ATA hard disk broke, so I want to replace it. The SATA drives I've seen online are very diverse in appearance, which makes me skeptical that they work identically. For example, The ports on [this one][1] and [this one][2] look very different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I be looking for a specific type of SATA hard drive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X95ROOS?keywords=serial%20ata%20internal%20hard%20drive&amp;qid=1445092243&amp;ref_=sr_1_8&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067149011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4LIC04?keywords=serial%20ata%20internal%20hard%20drive&amp;qid=1445092584&amp;ref_=sr_1_34&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067149011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-34" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="697" RevisionGUID="efa01df7-7203-4f64-b705-b96b18e02976" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:14:40.580" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 531, 1366 edit id of 458" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2750" RevisionGUID="495a2a06-e3d8-41b4-ae84-49d54c4711f1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:41:35.537" UserId="15" Text="[PlayStation 3 cluster][1] provided high-performance computing for reasonable price. One example was Condor Cluster (a US Air Force supercomputer built out of 1,760 Sony PlayStation 3s running the Linux operating system, the 33rd largest supercomputer in the world at that time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However this declined since Sony's OS update in 2010 which disabled ability to run other operating systems such as direct installation of Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any alternative video game consoles which can be used for clustered computing which you can recommend? With reasonable compute power vs price ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_3_cluster" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2750" RevisionGUID="495a2a06-e3d8-41b4-ae84-49d54c4711f1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:41:35.537" UserId="15" Text="Alternative game-console cluster to PS3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2750" RevisionGUID="495a2a06-e3d8-41b4-ae84-49d54c4711f1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:41:35.537" UserId="15" Text="&lt;video-game-console&gt;&lt;clustered-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="c7c3b091-3cb5-4464-a77c-d74f5022fc0b" CreationDate="2016-05-20T19:28:11.357" UserId="162" Text="I just got a Dell 8900 and would like to get a graphics card. The card would have to be able to drive two monitors (2 x 2k) or one 4K monitor. I never play games - just do development work using Visual Studio and Eclipse and occasionally watch films on my monitors. What card would be good enough for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="c7c3b091-3cb5-4464-a77c-d74f5022fc0b" CreationDate="2016-05-20T19:28:11.357" UserId="162" Text="need programming video card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="c7c3b091-3cb5-4464-a77c-d74f5022fc0b" CreationDate="2016-05-20T19:28:11.357" UserId="162" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;card&gt;&lt;2k&gt;&lt;x2&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10493" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="a85bf058-4fd5-49ea-b389-dc12a65535c1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T20:56:04.630" UserId="279" Comment="Fixed tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="a85bf058-4fd5-49ea-b389-dc12a65535c1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T20:56:04.630" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 214 edit id of 460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2752" RevisionGUID="250d50c5-c2ad-4fc4-907e-d7397f8d8365" CreationDate="2016-05-20T22:40:38.917" UserId="77" Text="I'm looking for some digital sensors, (temperature, pressure, lux, humidity), that I can run for a long distance, (80m).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The onewire temperature DS18B20 sensor looks good, (https://www.adafruit.com/product/381), but I couldn't find much else.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of onewire equivalents for the above and preferably cheaper temperature sensors as I need to purchase 20!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2752" RevisionGUID="250d50c5-c2ad-4fc4-907e-d7397f8d8365" CreationDate="2016-05-20T22:40:38.917" UserId="77" Text="Digital Sensors for Single Board Computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2752" RevisionGUID="250d50c5-c2ad-4fc4-907e-d7397f8d8365" CreationDate="2016-05-20T22:40:38.917" UserId="77" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2543" RevisionGUID="ed047c30-69e2-4d53-81d1-14a0c504d784" CreationDate="2016-05-20T22:42:05.580" UserId="77" Comment="edited body" Text="You could do worse than look at the compactrio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ni.com/compactrio/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; NI has invested thousands of person-years in this proven, validated,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; certified, and rugged hardware and software platform that tens of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; thousands of customers have deployed. With industry certifications and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; wide-temperature range, thermal, EMC/ESD, and shock and vibration&#xD;&#xA;&gt; testing, the rugged CompactRIO platform helps you to deploy reliable&#xD;&#xA;&gt; systems that last. Plus, benefit from a wide-range of services,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; outstanding customer support, and the industry’s most extensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ecosystem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NI are usually very helful.  NI hardware was used in the large hadron collider so I expect it would suit your application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10499" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="806a9d2d-ce21-4aa6-a103-69c991ab9c3c" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:14:19.100" UserId="2526" Text="Hi Franck I'm Paolo from Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** it's something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his ancestor gyroscoopic boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gived me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope to helped you SIR, remember that you should try by yourself to best clarify mmm... yourself. In the Amazon era everything is easily shipped back and forth.&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to contact me if you like, paolosi.ta ]at[ gmail.&#xD;&#xA;I typed with the microsoft onscreen keyboard, but google voice recognition works much faster! -&gt; https://speechnotes.co/&#xD;&#xA;But my spoken english isn't accurate enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards SIR!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ps Click and type is a very good free OnScreenKeyboard! [http://cnt.lakefolks.com/#Download][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cnt.lakefolks.com/#Download" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="b2a12b93-20cc-47b7-b6f3-6c13119b11d6" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:54:16.113" UserId="155" Comment="removed unnecessary commentary and recommendation" Text="Hi Franck I'm Paolo from Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** it's something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his ancestor gyroscoopic boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gived me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2754" RevisionGUID="94f4e681-8456-44b9-bced-71c095eece55" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:07:29.733" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2755" RevisionGUID="8f2c7059-7090-46d4-8bf3-94da5bd79745" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:07:29.733" UserId="155" Text="Computing consoles that use proprietary software and/or hardware to run video games. Do not use this tag when asking about general computing devices or smartphones that can run video games." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10503" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2750" RevisionGUID="0e7ba060-994a-45c8-a25e-ff916ebd0a3a" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:12:27.267" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video-game-console&gt;&lt;cluster-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2756" RevisionGUID="d5fb6a31-fa4d-439b-a210-904f2fdbeac6" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:20:18.867" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2757" RevisionGUID="f1e9a911-062e-42ef-bd82-8e8bc91ab7bf" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:20:18.867" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that use near-field communication for data transfer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2758" RevisionGUID="a641f5c2-005a-40f2-b484-5a38d8714ab2" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:22:54.773" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10507" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2759" RevisionGUID="9a541559-2ff7-4624-b4f5-f53c779d5ae5" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:22:54.773" UserId="155" Text="For questions about computing using resources from multiple physically connected computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2760" RevisionGUID="f3d81759-2523-40c3-a628-32ea9d76b6de" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:24:42.213" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2761" RevisionGUID="772d3338-fdee-4e28-8792-2da7fa8fc9b6" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:24:42.213" UserId="155" Text="For questions about standalone or system-embedded barcode scanners." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2762" RevisionGUID="95cfce1b-a4b8-413b-98f8-75b42712e1d9" CreationDate="2016-05-21T03:00:51.053" UserId="531" Text="The PS3 had 2 major advantages - it was an open system and the 'cell' architecture, which was easy to program for and fairly powerful. They were also slimline&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd argue that the most sensible way to equal that would be a cluster of regular 'consumer' PCs. The wording of the question though means I'll need to cheat a bit and I'll suggest a *steam machine*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most modern consoles are x86 based, with laptop class video. They are locked down though there's projects to try to get [xbox360][1] and [ps4][1] running linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of them have nice small form factors (the 5x5 and NUC form factors would be a good starting point). They have reasonable compute power, and in most cases, nuc class machines compare favourably in price to modern consoles. If you standardise on one model, you can stack em. If you need more powerful machines or a supported OS 5 or 10 years down the road, its a common ISA likely to have support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unlike a *traditional* console, its unlikely someone will take away your ability to run your own OS on it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free60" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="7c47c2ac-f1f1-49ae-9086-7df18e9e4869" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:21:28.213" UserId="1633" Text="I recently built a new computer, and I'm having some issues (I think).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my gear&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX](http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case Accessory: [Phanteks fan hub](http://i.gyazo.com/b2d3f2f75cf48491cfcd5ccbc64aa8db.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mobo: [Asus Maximus VIII Hero](https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: [Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is that the instructions that come with the Phanteks case is pretty lacking on instructions for the fan hub on the back.  I've read conflicting information on how to connect these devices, and I figured I'd ask here to make sure I actually did it correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that right now, the fans all stay 100% all the time.  It's pretty loud, and it's possible that that's the way it's supposed to be, but I hope not.  To be clear, the case fans appear to be the culprits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how I have everything set up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```H110i GTX&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |two fan cables&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;both fans&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |water pump&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |data cable&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;USB 2.0```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```Phanteks fan hub&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_OPT&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |3 x 4 pin fans&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;3 Case fans&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real confusion here is caused by the fact that the Phanteks case instructions say to connect their fan hub to the cpu_fan, but so does the H110i.  From googling around, I found some people that had done it this way, but man, this thing is loud.  Any advice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="7c47c2ac-f1f1-49ae-9086-7df18e9e4869" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:21:28.213" UserId="1633" Text="How do I use the Phanteks fan hub with Corsair H110i GTX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10516" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="7c47c2ac-f1f1-49ae-9086-7df18e9e4869" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:21:28.213" UserId="1633" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="5f6de07a-574b-4ee5-a36d-db6b18212401" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:38:37.157" UserId="1633" Comment="added 389 characters in body" Text="I recently built a new computer, and I'm having some issues (I think).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my gear&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX](http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case Accessory: [Phanteks fan hub](http://i.gyazo.com/b2d3f2f75cf48491cfcd5ccbc64aa8db.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mobo: [Asus Maximus VIII Hero](https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: [Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is that the instructions that come with the Phanteks case is pretty lacking on instructions for the fan hub on the back.  I've read conflicting information on how to connect these devices, and I figured I'd ask here to make sure I actually did it correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that right now, the fans all stay 100% all the time.  It's pretty loud, and it's possible that that's the way it's supposed to be, but I hope not.  To be clear, the case fans appear to be the culprits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how I have everything set up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```H110i GTX&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |two fan cables&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;both fans&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |water pump&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |data cable&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;USB 2.0```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```Phanteks fan hub&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_OPT&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |3 x 4 pin fans&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;3 Case fans&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real confusion here is caused by the fact that the Phanteks case instructions say to connect their fan hub to the cpu_fan, but so does the H110i.  From googling around, I found some people that had done it this way, but man, this thing is loud.  Any advice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing I should mention.  I'm using the AI Suite 3 software that came with the mobo.  It's supposed to let you control the case fan speeds.  When I have the fan hub connected to CPU_OPT, it's  not showing any case fans in the software.  If I connect CPU_OPT to any other fan connection on the mobo, then it shows up, but it still won't let me change any values." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="4c666a96-755b-4d92-8946-e446673837fc" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:54:12.700" UserId="1633" Comment="added 490 characters in body" Text="I recently built a new computer, and I'm having some issues (I think).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my gear&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: [Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX](http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case Accessory: [Phanteks fan hub](http://i.gyazo.com/b2d3f2f75cf48491cfcd5ccbc64aa8db.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mobo: [Asus Maximus VIII Hero](https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: [Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is that the instructions that come with the Phanteks case is pretty lacking on instructions for the fan hub on the back.  I've read conflicting information on how to connect these devices, and I figured I'd ask here to make sure I actually did it correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that right now, the fans all stay 100% all the time.  It's pretty loud, and it's possible that that's the way it's supposed to be, but I hope not.  To be clear, the case fans appear to be the culprits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how I have everything set up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```H110i GTX&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |two fan cables&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;both fans&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |water pump&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |data cable&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;USB 2.0```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```Phanteks fan hub&#xD;&#xA;        | &#xD;&#xA;        |CPU_FAN&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;CPU_OPT&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;Sata power&#xD;&#xA;        |&#xD;&#xA;        |3 x 4 pin fans&#xD;&#xA;        ------------------------&gt;3 Case fans&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real confusion here is caused by the fact that the Phanteks case instructions say to connect their fan hub to the cpu_fan, but so does the H110i.  From googling around, I found some people that had done it this way, but man, this thing is loud.  Any advice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing I should mention.  I'm using the AI Suite 3 software that came with the mobo.  It's supposed to let you control the case fan speeds.  When I have the fan hub connected to CPU_OPT, it's  not showing any case fans in the software.  If I connect CPU_OPT to any other fan connection on the mobo, then it shows up, but it still won't let me change any values.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After a little more research, I found out that the AI Suite 3 software won't have any control over your fans if you don't set the fan mode to PWM in the bios.  I went into the bios, and now it controls the fans.  The only issue now is that the case fans aren't turning on at all.  I'm wondering if the temperature just isn't high enough, and they'll turn on once it's higher.  If it turns on when the heat is higher, or if it doesn't turn on, I'll report back here." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10519" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2764" RevisionGUID="ac3acfa9-6f45-4e2b-9f47-73e91a69d242" CreationDate="2016-05-21T05:09:18.337" UserId="1633" Text="I'm not sure why I didn't find this solution a little faster, I guess I was just googling the wrong thing.  The phantek hub needs to be plugged into a fan connection on the mobo, but not the CPU_OPT.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, in the bios, you need to allow your fans to be controlled by something other than the bios.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After that, everything worked fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1212" RevisionGUID="8eb432b0-fba6-4a62-a235-59c26b0ac94c" CreationDate="2016-05-21T06:40:08.460" UserId="949" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I need some help choosing a graphics card. I searched a lot about this but still haven't found a good answer. I want to be able to play AAA titles and work with game development, graphics design, programming, and video editing. I'm really new to computer components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking a GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti (maybe SLI/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people say to stay away from SLI (compatibility and driver issues with games), others say it's only worth it for video editing, others say it's necessary for game development. I'm really confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm building a new PC &amp;mdash; 3,000$ is my budget. The only item that I wrote on my list to buy is an Intel i7-6700K (which I don't mind changing if need be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan to overclock anything unless it will provide a lot of benefit  without too much risk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="5b27d5a1-2bb0-49c3-8614-45eed8f99eb3" CreationDate="2016-05-21T08:45:49.020" UserId="2526" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Hi Franck I'm Paolo from Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** is something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his ancestor gyroscoopic boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gived me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10525" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="c8177c98-4993-4d48-87ec-2e34b5fa0310" CreationDate="2016-05-21T09:17:50.567" UserId="2526" Comment="fixed grammar" Text="Hi Franck I'm Paolo from Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** is something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his gyroscoopic ancestor boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gave me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2766" RevisionGUID="6b340a37-9944-4832-8fd0-5eb0d3f47839" CreationDate="2016-05-21T09:28:06.063" UserId="2528" Text="Don't know why this question is being downvoted, seems reasonable, and I am in the market for something like this myself. I like the look of the MSI GTX 960. Can drive multiple 4k monitors, has 3xDP, 1xHDMI and 1xDVI-D outputs and is apparently very quiet - the fans can be stopped completely in &quot;silent mode&quot; which should be enough for non-gaming use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-2g,review-33260.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="c97779d3-604b-42e1-ae3d-374417c6b157" CreationDate="2016-05-21T21:25:51.433" UserId="162" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I just got a Dell 8900 and would like to get a graphics card. The card would have to be able to drive two monitors (2 x 2k) or one 4K monitor. I never play games - just do development work using Visual Studio and Eclipse and occasionally watch films on my monitors. What card would be good enough for this?&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in spending $150-250. The built in graphics cannot support a 4K monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2769" RevisionGUID="bc9f9701-343e-4144-98eb-c0b297548c26" CreationDate="2016-05-22T09:33:38.707" UserId="2532" Text="I'm building a very low power HTPC. I'd like to make it as efficient as possible. The components I've chosen (a low power Atom mobo/CPU, a single SO-DIMM and an SSD) should idle at around 10W if not less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, all the PSUs I see list only their efficiency with 20+% load, which is usually much more than that. Benchmarks seem to likewise never measure those very small power draw numbers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to pay hundreds to save a tiny bit of power, but are there affordable PSUs that advertise their efficiency at such low loads?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My case has a standard ATX power supply, but some of the smaller form factors might fit too, as long as they have the standard connectors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2769" RevisionGUID="bc9f9701-343e-4144-98eb-c0b297548c26" CreationDate="2016-05-22T09:33:38.707" UserId="2532" Text="Which PSU to get for very low power draw?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2769" RevisionGUID="bc9f9701-343e-4144-98eb-c0b297548c26" CreationDate="2016-05-22T09:33:38.707" UserId="2532" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2763" RevisionGUID="7d9d152f-1769-44b0-8b03-18e9aa3552f6" CreationDate="2016-05-22T09:59:02.483" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:279,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;DJ McMayhem&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:54,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;belford&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2621" RevisionGUID="213bb6cb-e831-4cfa-964e-ae373c1adf46" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:22:59.350" UserId="531" Comment="edited body" Text="I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.&#xD;&#xA;As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems which support opensource firmware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial.On this list, the T60 look handy. *many* of these features are found on newer thinkpads, but its worth considering some of the modern, boneheaded moves lenovo has made. The newer ones have worse keyboards, and of course, you need to find a superfish free version. Go with intel graphics in any case. Further research shows that &quot;Ministry of Freedom&quot; sells somewhat newer models than my initial recommendation of a T60 *preflashed* and [those are worth a look][1]. That said, the features I like about the T60 are true here too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets go down your list. I have an R60, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, [thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features][2].&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, its an older machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &gt;Must feature a removable battery  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Two latches and it pops out&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a [video][3] here on the process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must feature a removable drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R60's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;Must feature at least three USB type A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price should be sub 500 USD if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I *strongly* recommend maxing out the ram if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *solid* machines, and despite their age hold up well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://minifree.org/product-category/laptops/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T60&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="0fb01486-957e-4f2d-8c8b-3803ff8f5b07" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:28:58.550" UserId="2533" Text="I consider buying a new desktop computer and I work on academic MIP optimization problems with Gurobi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs cannot be leveraged by MIP solvers, so my questions rather concerns the choice of the CPU (and possible related configuration matters). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Is there a general favor of Gurobi towards Intel or AMD CPUs or some certain technology in there? &#xD;&#xA;2. Would it be better to have more cores with less single thread performance (heard this is the case for AMD) or less cores with higher single thread performance (Intel?). &#xD;&#xA;3. Is there a standard CPU benchmark which well reflects the properties of MIP solving?&#xD;&#xA;4. Do you have any recommendation for a CPU fitting in a standard desktop computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10549" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="0fb01486-957e-4f2d-8c8b-3803ff8f5b07" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:28:58.550" UserId="2533" Text="Is there a CPU particularly well suited for solving MIPs with Gurobi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="0fb01486-957e-4f2d-8c8b-3803ff8f5b07" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:28:58.550" UserId="2533" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2771" RevisionGUID="40990b97-8c5a-494a-9a70-1dd7655a3536" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:05:39.103" UserId="2534" Text="I am about to purchase a [Samsung 950 Pro PCIe SSD][1].  I have a [MSI 970A motherboard][2].  I am wondering if I can insert the 950 pro stick **directly into** one of the x16 slots.  I read online that PCIe slots are backwards compatible (so the x4 should work in a x16).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible?  Do I need a [converter][3]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, don't have a M.2 slot on my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147466&amp;cm_re=950_pro-_-20-147-466-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130637&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12K-017B-00001" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2771" RevisionGUID="40990b97-8c5a-494a-9a70-1dd7655a3536" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:05:39.103" UserId="2534" Text="Can I use my Samsung 950 pro PCIe SSD directly into my x16 slot?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2771" RevisionGUID="40990b97-8c5a-494a-9a70-1dd7655a3536" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:05:39.103" UserId="2534" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2771" RevisionGUID="52de00d2-27c0-47e7-aa68-b4c7d3f0b905" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:15:32.217" UserId="2534" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="I am about to purchase a [Samsung 950 Pro PCIe SSD][1].  I have a [MSI 970A motherboard][2].  I am wondering if I can insert the 950 pro stick **directly into** one of the x16 slots.  I read online that PCIe slots are backwards compatible (so the x4 should work in a x16).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible?  Do I need a [converter][3]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, don't have a M.2 slot on my motherboard.  I noticed I have PCIe2.0 slots, not 3.0 slots.  Will my SSD still work?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147466&amp;cm_re=950_pro-_-20-147-466-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130637&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12K-017B-00001" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2773" RevisionGUID="78eea702-3154-494a-a6de-d9421beabf92" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:52:23.623" UserId="1885" Text="The linked drive may use a PCIe interface, but it *not* a *PCIe form factor* card. It is an [M.2 form factor][1] device and requires an M.2 slot. Without some sort of adapter, it will not work in your M.2-lacking motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The M.2 form factor is designed to connect to multiple interfaces - SATA and PCIe - over the same physical connector. Depending on the capabilities of the connector and device, they're keyed differently to prevent you from attempting to connect incompatible devices (a PCIe-only device in a SATA-only M.2 port, for instance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The adapter you linked should do the job. As far as PCIe 2.0 vs. PCIe 3.0 goes, PCIe 3.0 devices are backwards compatible, they'll just run slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as lane count goes, you can use a card that demands fewer lanes (4x vs 16x) in a slot with more lanes; the other pins aren't on the card, and therefore do nothing. Going the other direction requires paying more attention. Some cards need the bandwidth of all the lanes they're spec'd for, and some boards have things like 8x electrical slots in 16x mechanical slots for security/fit purposes (there are missing pins on the board end).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2771" RevisionGUID="1892bc31-ba2c-440d-8f5c-72d48926caec" CreationDate="2016-05-22T20:22:02.127" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10563" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="d324e172-1b20-4d77-b5ed-8f0dd4a620a4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T20:30:07.310" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="7586ba85-bb0f-477a-a278-7aa34145ce6b" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:53:55.000" UserId="2537" Text="This is my first post at hardwarerecs.stackexchange. I Hope that this is the right forum for my question, otherwise I would appreciate if you would let me know. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a new smartphone. I have had troubles with my previous phones. The problem I have faced are: overheating, lag. I strongly believe that this is from the hardware, since I have been having these problems with my 3 latest phones, all android, flagships. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overheating has accoured when, watching youtube videos, using snapchat (open and closes the camera alot). The lag accoured overall in different places, starting/switching from applications. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be worth mentioning which phones I have owned/own: Samsung s5, sony z3+, oneplus2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the Samsung I did not have overheating issues, only lag, but on the Sony and he oneplus2, they both overheated alot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I am looking for a phone which can play youtube videos without burning my hand, and which will not freeze (because of overheating) when using the camera alot. I want it also to be running smoothly using apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what should I be looking for, when I go through the specs. on different phones, and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am asking here becasue, earlier I have been using google to gather informations about the phones. But by experience I often only find sites which will tell you how &quot;good&quot; the phone is, almost like Samsung, Sony etc have written the article themself. And while I have trusted the information I have read before buying, I later find myself fooled. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="7586ba85-bb0f-477a-a278-7aa34145ce6b" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:53:55.000" UserId="2537" Text="What should I be looking for, when I go through the specs. on different phones, and why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="7586ba85-bb0f-477a-a278-7aa34145ce6b" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:53:55.000" UserId="2537" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10568" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="41d60397-1553-4c17-8f3c-f8172f1b4e6e" CreationDate="2016-05-23T04:03:33.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10569" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="b2b3310b-6312-40eb-b19c-4e7028d1f70e" CreationDate="2016-05-23T06:58:43.857" UserId="1802" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a DVR like product capable of following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can connect to various CCTV cameras (with a standard BNC output)&#xD;&#xA;- downloading of historical data can be performed remotely (nightly) over a secured channel (SFTP, SSH, Windows share etc.), eventually less secure FTP etc. from a distant location over IP network, the format should be preferably chunks of some standard video format like mp4 with H.264 codec&#xD;&#xA;- supports options to embed real-time video output into a custom web page or windows app&#xD;&#xA;- supports good motion detection and good quality with options (ideally storing both motion detected scenes and the whole time separately)&#xD;&#xA;- it would be nice to have a good metadata about videos created, so that output recordings time vs. motion detection could be created programatically&#xD;&#xA;- can be setup to delete old recordings automatically or programatically&#xD;&#xA;- provides option to connect external monitor to show real-time cameras' pictures on site&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering creating an intranet video surveillance server. So I am looking for a DVR with good automation options. Ideally with video surveillance server software option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, I just need a good universal and not too expensive device even without points 2 - 3 (downloading ..., embedded video output), if there are any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="9ea41987-c5e0-49dd-9232-9c3d76cbab97" CreationDate="2016-05-23T07:29:10.593" UserId="2533" Comment="narrowed question" Text="I consider buying a new desktop computer and I work on academic MIP optimization problems with Gurobi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs cannot be leveraged by MIP solvers, so my question rather concerns the choice of the CPU (and possible related configuration matters). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Is there a general favor of Gurobi towards Intel or AMD CPUs or some certain technology in there? &#xD;&#xA;2. Do you have any recommendation for a CPU fitting in a standard desktop computer which purpose is primarily to solve MIP problems?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="01e219da-8641-4392-90de-d00578581ef5" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:06:53.593" UserId="1466" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][4])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][7], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][8]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10576" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="da64aa3c-5df6-4030-bfe4-be33c7bba6f2" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:52:36.447" UserId="1885" Comment="Cleaned up grammar." Text="I am looking for a new smartphone. I have had troubles with my previous phones: overheating and lag. I strongly believe that this is from the hardware, since I have been having these problems with my three latest phones, all Android, all flagship devices - a Samsung Galaxy S5, a Sony Xperia Z3+, and a OnePlus 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overheating has occurred when watching YouTube videos and using Snapchat (which open and closes the camera a lot). The lag occurred overall in different places, including starting/switching from applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the Samsung I did not have overheating issues, only lag, but on the Sony and he OnePlus 2, they both overheated a lot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone which can play YouTube videos without burning my hand, and which will not freeze (because of overheating) when using the camera a lot. I want it to run apps smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I be looking for when I go through the specs on different phones, and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been used Google to gather information about the phones. In my experience, I only find sites which say how &quot;good&quot; the phone is, almost like Samsung, Sony, etc have wrote the article themselves. In the past, I have trusted the information I read before buying, later finding myself fooled." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10577" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="da64aa3c-5df6-4030-bfe4-be33c7bba6f2" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:52:36.447" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 2537 edit id of 462" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="89e3c776-ef7d-469c-9d70-a067f92c725b" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:42:02.287" UserId="2537" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new smartphone. I have had troubles with my previous phones: overheating and lag. I strongly believe that this is from the hardware, since I have been having these problems with my three latest phones, all Android, all flagship devices - a Samsung Galaxy S5, a Sony Xperia Z3+, and a OnePlus 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overheating has occurred when watching YouTube videos and using Snapchat (which open and closes the camera a lot). The lag occurred overall in different places, including starting/switching from applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the Samsung I did not have overheating issues, only lag, but on the Sony and he OnePlus 2, they both overheated a lot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone which can play YouTube videos without burning my hand, and which will not freeze (because of overheating) when using the camera a lot. I want it to run apps smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I be looking for when I go through the specs on different phones, and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been used Google to gather information about the phones. In my experience, I only find sites which say how &quot;good&quot; the phone is, almost like Samsung, Sony, etc have wrote the article themselves. In the past, I have trusted the information I read before buying, later finding myself fooled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;After reading the comment by Alpha3031,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What phone would you recommend which will fufill the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;smooth running, reasonably fast for light tasks, and does not overheat?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2774" RevisionGUID="46c44f8c-287b-4609-905b-3922a43318ec" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:51:58.940" UserId="2537" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new smartphone. I have had troubles with my previous phones: overheating and lag. I strongly believe that this is from the hardware, since I have been having these problems with my three latest phones, all Android, all flagship devices - a Samsung Galaxy S5, a Sony Xperia Z3+, and a OnePlus 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The overheating has occurred when watching YouTube videos and using Snapchat (which open and closes the camera a lot). The lag occurred overall in different places, including starting/switching from applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the Samsung I did not have overheating issues, only lag, but on the Sony and he OnePlus 2, they both overheated a lot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone which can play YouTube videos without burning my hand, and which will not freeze (because of overheating) when using the camera a lot. I want it to run apps smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I be looking for when I go through the specs on different phones, and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been used Google to gather information about the phones. In my experience, I only find sites which say how &quot;good&quot; the phone is, almost like Samsung, Sony, etc have wrote the article themselves. In the past, I have trusted the information I read before buying, later finding myself fooled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;After reading the comment by Alpha3031,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What phone would you recommend which will fufill the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;smooth running, reasonably fast for light tasks, and does not overheat?&#xD;&#xA;I do not have a limit in budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="700" RevisionGUID="141d5025-6575-46f8-922e-df0ebd745687" CreationDate="2016-05-23T19:15:30.180" UserId="199" Comment="adds another tested card" Text="Cards which are working perfectly:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SanDisk Ultra 64GB&#xD;&#xA; - Kingston microSD-XC 64GB UHS-I U1 GOLD Class10 SDCA10/64GB + adapter (90/45 MBps) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another cards (although they are only 32GB ones) which also work well:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston microSD-HC card 32GB ULTRA Class10 SDCA10/32GB &#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Memory 32GB Evo MicroSDHC UHS-I Grade 1 Class 10 Memory Card without Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2752" RevisionGUID="4e104956-6028-4f34-bedc-f84f78512d36" CreationDate="2016-05-23T23:16:59.707" UserId="77" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for some digital sensors, (temperature, pressure, lux, humidity), that I can run for a long distance, (80m).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The onewire temperature DS18B20 sensor looks good, (https://www.adafruit.com/product/381), but I couldn't find much else.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of onewire equivalents for the above sensor types and preferably cheaper temperature sensors as I need to purchase 20!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="493681ee-6fce-4991-ab57-fb9024e3b1d4" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:48:07.130" UserId="2546" Text="The i5 2500k is a great processor, even nowadays, but only if you can overclock it. I have a H77 chipset board, that means, no OC for me. So, I need a recomendation of cpu and mobo. I'm looking for a &quot;successor&quot;, good cost/benefit, like the 2500k. &#xD;&#xA;I have DDR3 RAM, so I think skylake is a problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: i5-2500k turbo: 3.7GHz &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mobo: asus p8h77-v LE &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4x4GB DDR3 1333mhz (dual channel only) (1.5V, important for skylake?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX950 2gb vram&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10601" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="493681ee-6fce-4991-ab57-fb9024e3b1d4" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:48:07.130" UserId="2546" Text="Stuck with H77 (non-OC) and 2500k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10602" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="493681ee-6fce-4991-ab57-fb9024e3b1d4" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:48:07.130" UserId="2546" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2781" RevisionGUID="3b49cac9-908f-4dba-95a0-6692d08a8099" CreationDate="2016-05-24T06:23:41.687" UserId="1366" Text="My wife is using **Lenovo Yoga 3 - 14** (not pro screen below):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo Yoga 3][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought it with this specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-5500U&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB (SO-DIMM DDR3, 1600 MHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD SATA III&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; FHD IPS Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics 5500 + NVIDIA GeForce 940M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What it is used for ? ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most demanding task which this notebook is performing is Diablo 3 it's working well but not at max detail settings. Mostly it is used for internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Touchscreen ? ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's really great I didn't think that it will be so easy to get used to using touchscreen instead of mouse but it's really nice feature to browse websites using touch...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but we had problems with touchscreen at the beginning. When I firstly turned on this notebook touchscreen wasn't responsible it was working sometimes on half of the screen sometimes on 3/4 of the screen rest of the screen wasn't giving response. After few hours on forums I found solution. I had to delete all nVidia drivers and install older ones (newest drivers are working well) additionally I had to check what model of touchscreen I had and install drivers to it from manufacturer (not included with notebook). There was also some fix for Windows 10. And from this procedure touchscreen is working really well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About touchscreen itself. If not a problem above I would talk about it only good things it's really responsive and precise. It's so easy to browse Internet with this of course to games like Diablo you need mouse but to all simple tasks touchscreen will be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 360° modes ? ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When we are talking about other modes than laptop mode. It switches to it when you move screen more than 180° automatically (you can also turn it on manually). Weight of this device allows to use it as a tablet. The biggest downside of this modes is when you use it vertically www pages are not scaling well (tried in Chrome, FF and Edge) there is often need to scroll them horizontally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Price: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought it for **~$1000**. I didn't found exactly the same model on newegg.com or amazon but there are many models on amazon which allows you to choose a model which fits your preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [i5 5200U / no additional GPU for $864 on Amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course you can look for other configuration which will fit you better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Final thoughts: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is that I was really disappointed with problems at the start with the touchscreen, maybe it was only my notebook but I found many threads about it. I could also return it to the shop but I resolved the problem myself...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but if we won't look at the troubles at the beggining I would really recommend this notebook. The biggest pros of this notebook are touchscreen and quite good components for the paid price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kJpBC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-2---1-Touch-Screen-Laptop/dp/B013OO0GHA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464069864&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=lenovo%20yoga%203%2014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2782" RevisionGUID="b6c7dfaf-21a5-4704-b267-eb68715394ac" CreationDate="2016-05-24T07:02:19.920" UserId="2537" Text="Sony w807C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: can only speak from where I live, but it seems from your comment that it is alittle over budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen size: 43, 50, 55&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resolution: full hd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;wifi: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SmartTv: Yes, android, nuff said?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Refresh rate: 100Hz with 800Hz motionflow&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Response time: 10-15 ms (Do not have any source on this, but this is stated from Sony who visited our store.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VESA mount: Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D: yes, active, no glasses included. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend 4k, because 4k is useless without HDR, and there is no HDR standard today, which means that if the state a standard, and you television do not support the standard, again it will be useless. So even I you buy a 4k tv with HDR you might not be able get the full experience with 4k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I have learned Sony has the best response time 10-15 ms on their flagships, LG around 30 ms and Samsung 45-50 ms. Please see if you can find a source on this. The Sony w807c has Sonys &quot;finest&quot; display, the  Triluminos display. This means that it will show a good picture when viewing from the angels, please see link provided. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.quora.com/What-is-Sonys-Triluminos-technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; DLNA server which is Mezzmo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unsure of this, but it runs android smart tv so if anyone should support it, I would be android. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it is android smart tv you can use the ps4 control to play games from google play, and aswell control the tv with it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;THe tv has a built in google cast, which means that you can cast you smartphone directly to the tv.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10610" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="f81af2a7-3776-4a52-ab8d-58c4d66021b6" CreationDate="2016-05-24T23:52:15.743" UserId="279" Comment="Removed unnecessary info, added tags, formatting" Text="The i5 2500k is a great processor, even nowadays, but only if you can overclock it. I have a H77 chipset board, that means, no OC for me. So, I need a recomendation of cpu and mobo. I'm looking for a &quot;successor&quot;, good cost/benefit, like the 2500k. &#xD;&#xA;I have DDR3 RAM, so I think skylake is a problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5-2500k turbo: 3.7GHz &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: aAsus p8h77-v LE &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 4x4GB DDR3 1333mhz (dual channel only, 1.5V)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX950&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10611" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="f81af2a7-3776-4a52-ab8d-58c4d66021b6" CreationDate="2016-05-24T23:52:15.743" UserId="279" Comment="Removed unnecessary info, added tags, formatting" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="f81af2a7-3776-4a52-ab8d-58c4d66021b6" CreationDate="2016-05-24T23:52:15.743" Comment="Proposed by 279 approved by 2546 edit id of 463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="86517590-e3cf-4fb1-9887-ece2ad32681b" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:09:01.670" UserId="1885" Comment="Cleaned up grammar and capitalization." Text="The i5-2500K is a great processor, even nowadays, but only if you can overclock it. I have a H77 chipset board, that means no OC for me. So, I need a recommendation of CPU and motherboard. I'm looking for a &quot;successor&quot;, good cost/benefit, like the 2500k. &#xD;&#xA;I have DDR3 RAM, so I think Skylake is a problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5-2500K turbo: 3.7GHz &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus P8H77-V LE &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 4x4GB DDR3 1333mhz (dual channel only, 1.5V)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Nvidia GTX950&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="86517590-e3cf-4fb1-9887-ece2ad32681b" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:09:01.670" UserId="1885" Comment="Cleaned up grammar and capitalization." Text="Stuck with H77 (non-OC) and I5-2500K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2780" RevisionGUID="86517590-e3cf-4fb1-9887-ece2ad32681b" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:09:01.670" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 464" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="3282b4be-fcc8-43a7-b22d-b5e1f47c45a2" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:34:40.030" UserId="2554" Text="My wife has no use of her upper limbs but is a very keen computing enthusiast, like myself. Recently she celebrated her 25th birthday and I bought her a brand new computer knowing how much she loves to make use of technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know what devices or hardware components are available to help my wife use the computer. I have not thought about how she will make use of her new computer considering her disabilities and I am hoping someone can suggest possible upgrades to ensure that she can make the most of he present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could be the wrong place to ask such as question, but it's worth a shot! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="3282b4be-fcc8-43a7-b22d-b5e1f47c45a2" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:34:40.030" UserId="2554" Text="Upgrades to a computer system for the disabled" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10623" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="3282b4be-fcc8-43a7-b22d-b5e1f47c45a2" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:34:40.030" UserId="2554" Text="&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10628" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="bbda4e8d-821d-4c70-b6e0-9dd3f1d5c4b9" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:25:19.853" UserId="2554" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:2554,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jordan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10629" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="f2423cb8-1030-41f5-8483-1d7268f7f658" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:30:42.923" UserId="2554" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:2554,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jordan&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10632" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="84f43261-2dd0-4834-a0b1-5564227808b6" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:36:18.350" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10638" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="13c69a6c-6261-464c-b697-98490531f0c1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:18:05.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="86fcf3fd-32a2-4a11-b06b-a76882de3763" CreationDate="2016-05-26T07:54:34.830" UserId="1480" Text="I normally buy netbook type computers because I spend most of my time hitchhiking around the world and when I'm at home I plug into external monitor, drive, keyboard, mouse, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the very cheapest. It's liable to get lost, broken, or stolen on my travels. I'm willing to accept inferior CPU and graphics and less RAM and storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I **hate** artificial limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back when netbooks were super popular just before iPads came out, Microsoft offered cheap Windows licenses to OEMs if they put artificial limits such as 32-bit only, maximum RAM 4gb, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also hate soldered-in RAM, non-replaceable batteries, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which are the cheapest laptops which are small like netbooks but support 64-bit OSes and have upgradeable RAM etc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10644" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="86fcf3fd-32a2-4a11-b06b-a76882de3763" CreationDate="2016-05-26T07:54:34.830" UserId="1480" Text="Very low budget small laptops without artificial limits" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10645" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="86fcf3fd-32a2-4a11-b06b-a76882de3763" CreationDate="2016-05-26T07:54:34.830" UserId="1480" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="7b2a0bfd-da3e-487a-9b00-691f0ff766ad" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:03:34.920" UserId="1480" Comment="minor tweaks" Text="I normally buy netbook type computers because I spend most of my time hitchhiking around the world and when I'm at home I plug into external monitor, drive, keyboard, mouse, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the very cheapest. It's liable to get lost, broken, or stolen on my travels. I'm willing to accept inferior CPU and graphics and less RAM and storage. These I regard as *natural* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I **hate** *artificial* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back when netbooks were super popular just before iPads came out, Microsoft offered cheap Windows licenses to OEMs if they put artificial limits such as 32-bit only, maximum RAM 4gb, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also hate soldered-in RAM, non-replaceable batteries, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which are the cheapest laptops which are small like netbooks but support 64-bit OSes and have upgradeable RAM etc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="9631fb20-0140-48f9-8deb-8536a14b0508" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:08:52.370" UserId="1480" Comment="minor tweaks" Text="I normally buy netbook type computers because I spend most of my time hitchhiking around the world and when I'm at home I plug into external monitor, drive, keyboard, mouse, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the very cheapest. It's liable to get lost, broken, or stolen on my travels. I'm willing to accept inferior CPU and graphics and less RAM and storage. These I regard as *natural* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I **hate** *artificial* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back when netbooks were super popular just before iPads came out, Microsoft offered cheap Windows licenses to OEMs if they put artificial limits such as 32-bit only, maximum RAM 4gb, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also hate soldered-in RAM, non-replaceable batteries, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which are the cheapest laptops which are small like netbooks but support 64-bit OSes and have upgradeable RAM etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;(MacBooks and Ultrabooks are several times the price of netbook class laptops. Intermediate priced laptops in my part of the world are generally full size.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="b231ff6f-6531-45c1-959a-41a6ca380ac4" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:43:27.477" UserId="1480" Comment="add non proprietary hardware with free OSS drivers" Text="I normally buy netbook type computers because I spend most of my time hitchhiking around the world and when I'm at home I plug into external monitor, drive, keyboard, mouse, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the very cheapest. It's liable to get lost, broken, or stolen on my travels. I'm willing to accept inferior CPU and graphics and less RAM and storage. These I regard as *natural* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I **hate** *artificial* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back when netbooks were super popular just before iPads came out, Microsoft offered cheap Windows licenses to OEMs if they put artificial limits such as 32-bit only, maximum RAM 4gb, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also hate soldered-in RAM, non-replaceable batteries, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also regard proprietary hardware with no free drivers for Linux to be an artificial limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which are the cheapest laptops which are small like netbooks but support 64-bit OSes and have upgradeable RAM etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;(MacBooks and Ultrabooks are several times the price of netbook class laptops. Intermediate priced laptops in my part of the world are generally full size.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2791" RevisionGUID="27a9bdba-9e1d-40e0-b507-7e84f7e03028" CreationDate="2016-05-26T15:37:06.130" UserId="1948" Text="The Lenovo ideapad range are quite good value,  I don't know what country you're from but in the UK you can get a lenovo ideapad 305 for under £300. It has an i3, 8GB ram and a 1tb HDD. For it's price it's pretty good value for money!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;in regards to ram and battery, both can be replaced! I have a slightly older version which came with 4GB of ram. Upgrading it was no issue whatsoever &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-ideapad-305-laptop-intel-core-i3-8gb-ram-1tb-15-6-/p2267362?sku=234935249&amp;kpid=234935249&amp;s_kenid=d5c81421-e622-4bbb-a094-8dfdb15f1321&amp;s_kwcid=402x1488619&amp;tmad=c&amp;tmcampid=73" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10652" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2790" RevisionGUID="b1c93f92-1f46-4fb1-aafc-e1fef0b8512f" CreationDate="2016-05-26T17:42:31.127" UserId="1480" Comment="clarify what i mean by &quot;small&quot; and &quot;full size&quot;" Text="I normally buy netbook type computers - 7&quot; to 11&quot; - because I spend most of my time hitchhiking around the world and when I'm at home I plug into external monitor, drive, keyboard, mouse, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the very cheapest. It's liable to get lost, broken, or stolen on my travels. I'm willing to accept inferior CPU and graphics and less RAM and storage. These I regard as *natural* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I **hate** *artificial* limits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back when netbooks were super popular just before iPads came out, Microsoft offered cheap Windows licenses to OEMs if they put artificial limits such as 32-bit only, maximum RAM 4gb, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also hate soldered-in RAM, non-replaceable batteries, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also regard proprietary hardware with no free drivers for Linux to be an artificial limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which are the cheapest laptops which are small like netbooks but support 64-bit OSes and have upgradeable RAM etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;(MacBooks and Ultrabooks are several times the price of netbook class laptops. Intermediate priced laptops in my part of the world are generally full size - 14&quot; to 17&quot;.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="5655daee-be98-474e-8b1a-1b115723e824" CreationDate="2016-05-26T19:31:25.310" UserId="2554" Comment="deleted 77 characters in body; edited tags" Text="My wife has no use of her upper limbs but is a very keen computing enthusiast, like myself. Recently she celebrated her 25th birthday and I bought her a brand new computer knowing how much she loves to make use of technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know what devices or hardware components are available to help my wife use the computer. I have not thought about how she will make use of her new computer considering her disabilities and I am hoping someone can suggest possible upgrades to ensure that she can make the most of he present." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="5655daee-be98-474e-8b1a-1b115723e824" CreationDate="2016-05-26T19:31:25.310" UserId="2554" Comment="deleted 77 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2794" RevisionGUID="086e262c-eb6f-4a66-93bc-1288fa2dfc9e" CreationDate="2016-05-27T00:47:06.930" UserId="531" Text="I'm going to essentially steal RPhipps answer from here and suggest an [older X series thinkpad][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an x220, and from his ebay link, they're roughly in the 200USD range, and around 12 inches. While its an older system, sandy bridge holds up well and its really lean.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice things? Its *trivial* to upgrade. Mine's got roughly twice the ram as stock, a 250gb SSD replacing the 300gb stock disk easily replacable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All you need is a small screwdriver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/616/laptop-for-simple-tasks-and-remote-work/618#618" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2795" RevisionGUID="bc8fd16a-543d-4f1e-b763-8a18a50e11ee" CreationDate="2016-05-27T02:31:15.030" UserId="376" Text="I gave Obmerk Kronen plenty of time to post his own answer based on his comment, and even prompted him to do so, but he never did...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So: any of the three models of printer made by https://www.raise3d.com/.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. 2+ printing nozzles - An available option, so **Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;2. &lt;= 40 micron layer height. - 10 micron layer height, so **Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;3. Capable of printing in all commonly available plastics &amp; support materials, e.g. PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, Laywood, TPU etcetera. - **Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;4. Capable of printing high-temperature materials such as Polycarbonate, PET &amp; Nylon - **Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;5. Not dependent on proprietary consumables supplies - able to use generic 1.75 or 3mm filament. - Can use generic 1.75mm filament, so **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;6. Large print volume - 200mm+ in at least one dimension. - Smallest printer is 8x8x8 inch (8 inch = 203mm), largest 12&quot;x12&quot;x24&quot; (305x305x610 mm), so **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;7. Capable of running from an Australian 240V power socket. - Accepts 110-250v, 50/60Hz, so **Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;8. Enclosed cabinet. - **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;9. Capable of operation with open-source software - Proprietary slicer supplied, but also accepts gcode, so **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;10. Low cost:- must be below $10,000 AUD, preferably below $5,000 AUD. - The largest, most expensive model (N2 Plus) is US$3499 from the manufacturer, which is currently around A$4840, and their smallest (which meets all the other specifications above) is advertised on an Australian retailer's site for A$2950, so **Yes**&#xD;&#xA;11. Australian supplier. - Advertised on https://www.3dprintergear.com.au/, but not available yet/preorder so **Probably Yes**.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2796" RevisionGUID="443a7e93-f2f1-4c7b-b6ef-56101a36c5ff" CreationDate="2016-05-27T04:35:44.490" UserId="2568" Text="OnePlus 2 and Xperia Z3+ both feature the Snapdragon 810 chipset which is infamous for its overheating issue. Though OnePlus 2 manages to reduce this effect to an extent, it can't eliminate heating in its entirety. &#xD;&#xA;As for Samsung S5, the heating wouldn't be much as it has the older 801 chipset. Qualcomm has said to address this issue in the newer 820 chipset (read Xiaomi Mi5 and Samsung S7) albeit removing FM receiver if you were into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More than specs, I trust the reviews from [GSM Arena][1] So search the ratings/reviews for your future phone there. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a budget limit, Samsung S7/Edge is the way to go in Android. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10667" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2751" RevisionGUID="0007e81f-4c4e-4d12-ae1c-f500691e56e0" CreationDate="2016-05-27T08:45:44.657" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2357" RevisionGUID="cef4e7f1-ce5e-4fdf-bbf9-9b49786b170c" CreationDate="2016-05-27T08:48:24.737" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting" Text="What would you recommend for rendering on GPU (iray, V-Ray RT, VRED) and doing some VR; **two** GTX 970 or **one** GTX980 Ti card? I can get these setups for roughly the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Cuda cores**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 970: 2x1664 = **3328**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 980Ti: **2816**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **VRAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 970: **4GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 980Ti: **6GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. **Memory Bandwidth** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 970: **224** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 980Ti: **336.5** GB/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. **Texture Fill Rate**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 970: **109** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 980Ti: **176** GigaTexels/sec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the memory in two 970 does not add up to 8gb in total, so two 970 will give me less VRAM. But what about the total number of CUDA cores compared to the lower amount of VRAM and lower memory bandwidth? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My motherboard has 3x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots with support for 3-way SLI. I also have my old GTX 590, that I was thinking of keeping for Windows to work with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10671" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2384" RevisionGUID="26032a69-358e-4c78-b31c-c53119071258" CreationDate="2016-05-27T09:05:50.780" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="8cea15fe-3232-4261-9c6e-b22b13f79f7c" CreationDate="2016-05-27T11:46:30.640" UserId="2526" Comment="added final words" Text="Hi Franck I'm Paolo from Italy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** is something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his gyroscoopic ancestor boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gave me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope to helped you SIR, remember that you should try by yourself to best clarify mmm... yourself. In the Amazon era everything is easily shipped back and forth.&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to contact me if you like, paolosi.ta ]at[ gmail.&#xD;&#xA;In this case I typed with the microsoft onscreen keyboard, but google voice recognition works much faster! -&gt; https://speechnotes.co/ .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards SIR!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ps Click and type is a very good free OnScreenKeyboard for windows! [http://cnt.lakefolks.com/#Download][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cnt.lakefolks.com/#Download" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10677" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2753" RevisionGUID="90c9b29f-6b8f-4ee6-a4d5-4c35268a7308" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:06:44.950" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 576 characters in body" Text="I tried all four devices you asked to compare. In terms of accuracy -and responsiveness- *Headmaster and Headmouse Extreme are the best*. Nothing beat them, they are just perfect like a standard mouse is. If you have a good head movement you'll take the best from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a quadriplegia C4-C5 and I design with an **Headmouse Extreme** with sip/puff and the standard windows -or linux- onscreen keyboard. Inkscape, Illustrator, Photoshop, 3dsmax, Coreldraw, whatever software I try it works perfect. Occasionally I do simple video and audio editing. *I have a two monitor configuration, sip and puff system is arm mounted on desktop*, I use two reflective dots -to improve efficency- on the right side of my glasses, I can send photoes if you want. I can move the cursor all over the lengh of both monitor, from left to right and vice versa; if the headmouse looses the signal before acclompishing this task, I slighty switch back with my head, Headmouse re-finds dot signal and I finish that cursor movement. **Headmaster** doesn't have this little drawback -very little, You'll not ping pong your cursor all the time-; I felt uncomfortable wearing **HMaster** headset, it's also wired to the PC so you are not free to go away with your wheelchair. A simple dot on a comfortable support is the easyest option. Maybe in the future a lightweight wireless ultrasonic device will give a reborn to **HMaster**. Every InfraRed based device -*SmartNav, Tracker, Headmouse*- suffers from direct sunlight, but your display watching experience does it too, so You will ever not be in direct sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today I also tried **QUHA ZONO** gyroscopic device, I was very attracted by this device: wireless and indipendent, enough lightweight, easily portable, can be used outdoor with smartphones etc.. I had to say that I couldnt try it in the best conditions and that I was looking for something performing like my headmouse. And in fact **ZONO** is something else. I need an easily portable -not to be used outdoor- and I'll go with an **Headmouse Nano**. I'll give another try to **ZONO**, but his gyroscoopic ancestor boost tracer seemed to suffer of the same 'kinda floating cursor' behaviour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried **TrackerPro** it was a bit slower than HMouse, it gave me back a light delay between my head movement and the cursor one. **SmartNav** is much slower so it gives a bigger delay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="2fb6ad53-7e3c-4267-a9ab-4eb605f10929" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:11:10.130" UserId="1466" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10679" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2365" RevisionGUID="d327ad8f-e2b0-4159-8f6f-5d5ed06f69f2" CreationDate="2016-05-27T16:09:44.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2798" RevisionGUID="84f9e962-ce3c-4461-823d-32c43d2e7ea1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T16:41:09.010" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="I would suggest going to Skylake.  However, I don't know what kind of prices you'll pay for it, but I'll throw some things our there and you can decide how to proceed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard, one option @ ~$98 **Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor, @ ~$195 **Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core** (you could bump down to 6400 or an i3-6100 for good performance/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM, you will have to have DDR4, @ ~$35 **G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm considering for a modest upgrade for myself.  I also used this, http://www.logicalincrements.com/# to help me make some recommendations along with http://pcpartpicker.com/ to look at similar parts and prices.  Both sites are great tools.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10681" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="eff8cbd6-77e6-491a-b87e-17b7c4d0f35c" CreationDate="2016-05-27T20:22:56.207" UserId="229" Comment="additional update" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source (very long and ongoing thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**To Sum Up**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is either some kind of custom made (or official) adapter that can pass the e-kit to the Xbox One directly or a method of using an older RB or GH drum set as a pass-through device (with detailed instructions).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only **requirement** on top of basic Rock Band drumming functionality is to be compatible with &quot;Pro-Cymbal Mode&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippet from Harmonix Product Manager, Daniel Sussman:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/the-future-of-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is from the company that made Rock Band 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We know there are a bunch of other things that are important that we are actively working on (Xbox One support for ION drums, for example). Stay tuned for more info, when we have details, trust that we’ll share them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This next quote is showing what is their highest priority as of December 15, 2015. I am speculating the support for ION drums won't be available till after January.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We hear everyone clamoring for the export entitlements of previous Rock Band games, so we’re bumping their priority to the top of the list. We’re shooting to have these up in the store for the folks who’ve exported their prior games in January. We’re starting with the original Rock Band and then following up with Rock Band 2 and Lego Rock Band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Further Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From Harmonix regarding to their dev plans for Rock Band 4. For the case of this question, look at the plans in the Fall with these two links and the picture below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/online-ions-and-more-a-pax-east-panel-recap/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/may-dlc-artists-double-kick-support-and-battleborn-characters-heading-to-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![2016 Roadmap][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/b6GP6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="5c2d0077-30a5-40c3-bbdb-24942bd23c0f" CreationDate="2016-05-28T20:59:29.703" UserId="2292" Text="I just wondered whether anybody had a recommendation for an LED TV with these features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1080P horizontal resolution.. my eyes won't resolve more HD than that anyway.&#xD;&#xA;* HD tuner (&quot;Freeview&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;* 28&quot;-32&quot;, ideally 28&quot;, but that size seems a bit neglected.&#xD;&#xA;* Ability to connect PC/laptop for DVD playback.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally ability to record to USB.&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally less than £200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not interested in &quot;smart&quot; TVs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am surprised it feels necessary to ask here, but the focus seems to be on 32&quot; and upwards, 28&quot; seems the ideal size to me, but I struggle a bit to find these things in that size." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="5c2d0077-30a5-40c3-bbdb-24942bd23c0f" CreationDate="2016-05-28T20:59:29.703" UserId="2292" Text="Medium sized HD LED TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="5c2d0077-30a5-40c3-bbdb-24942bd23c0f" CreationDate="2016-05-28T20:59:29.703" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10693" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2785" RevisionGUID="7e756f44-d572-49c8-a641-967edd5154f0" CreationDate="2016-05-28T20:59:49.710" UserId="2554" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="My wife has no use of her upper limbs but is a very keen computing enthusiast, like myself. Recently she celebrated her 25th birthday and I bought her a brand new computer knowing how much she loves to make use of technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I don't know what devices or hardware components are available to help my wife use the computer. I have not thought about how she will make use of her new computer considering her disabilities and I am hoping someone can suggest possible upgrades to ensure that she can make the most of he present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like suggestions based on human interaction devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="dee55ef3-180f-4d2e-a7ba-69cf0f799082" CreationDate="2016-05-28T21:15:23.910" UserId="2292" Comment="Added specific tuner name." Text="I just wondered whether anybody had a recommendation for an LED TV with these features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1080p horizontal resolution.&#xD;&#xA;* DVB-T2 tuner (&quot;Freeview HD&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;* 28&quot;-32&quot;, ideally 28&quot;, but that size seems a bit neglected.&#xD;&#xA;* Ability to connect PC/laptop for DVD playback (probably standard?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally ability to record to USB.&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally less than £200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not interested in &quot;smart&quot; TVs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am surprised it feels necessary to ask here, but the focus seems to be on 32&quot; and upwards. 28&quot; seems the ideal size to me, but I struggle a bit to find these things in that size - in some cases comparable 32&quot; TVs are cheaper, but they are a little bit too big." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10697" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="516" RevisionGUID="83b07c87-c344-4ebd-8c51-b8f9b80d3342" CreationDate="2016-05-28T21:58:24.353" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="Belford's answer is probably the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, if you search around, you may be able to find a used [IBM T220 or T221](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors) or one of the rebrands. These monitors were sold between 2001 and 2005, with a native resolution of 3840×2400 pixels (WQUXGA) on a screen with a diagonal of 22.2 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Their pixel density works out to 204 ppi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to their age, they preceded HDMI (mostly) and DisplayPort (entirely), instead relying on multiple DVI connectors, so you will need adaptors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, their maximum refresh rate is 48 Hz, but may be lower depending on exactly how you connect to them. They should be fine for programming, writing, and 24-30 fps video, but they may be too slow for games and some (i.e. 60 fps) video." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2608" RevisionGUID="471ad0b2-00e7-468e-b9fc-e47d2207a3a9" CreationDate="2016-05-29T07:36:15.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10718" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="95c351ff-f39c-4089-9616-096e3fc7fd2b" CreationDate="2016-05-30T05:29:17.350" UserId="2077" Comment="added 10 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I am planning to build a very high end deep learning machine with as many Xeon or i7 CPU cores and as many Titan X GPU cards as possible on a single motherboard. So what is the maximum limit for this? Which motherboard will give the maximum leverage without getting saturated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The single motherboard assumption is to minimize latency keeping in mind the broader goal of extracting maximum performance from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Answers to the comments to make it very specific:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standard form factor or proprietary?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard preferred but not mandatory &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is more GPU sockets or more CPU sockets the priority (eg. would you rather have 2 GPU/4 CPU, or 4 CPU/2 GPU)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More GPU sockets is the priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How important is memory? Do you have a price limit? Do you have a topology requirement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much importance, even 64GB is OK. No price limit. Should not be saturated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is required from the hardware:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run as many CPU and GPU intensive individual and possibly containerized applications as possible without getting bottle-necked by memory or topology of the mother board. The motherboard may not be easily available so can also suggest whom to contact to get one. Supermicro seems to offer some solutions ." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="95c351ff-f39c-4089-9616-096e3fc7fd2b" CreationDate="2016-05-30T05:29:17.350" UserId="2077" Comment="added 10 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2794" RevisionGUID="71a66bf7-32aa-4906-986b-c6e5d19a6169" CreationDate="2016-05-30T08:05:07.827" UserId="531" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I'm going to essentially steal RPhipps answer from here and suggest an [older X series thinkpad][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an x220, and from his ebay link, they're roughly in the 200USD range, and around 12 inches. While its an older system, sandy bridge holds up well and its really lean.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice things? Its *trivial* to upgrade. Mine's got roughly twice the ram as stock, a 250gb SSD replacing the 300gb stock disk and an easily replacable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All you need is a small screwdriver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/616/laptop-for-simple-tasks-and-remote-work/618#618" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2808" RevisionGUID="f6ed0405-26e8-40b2-a5ed-2ea9b0763d92" CreationDate="2016-05-30T17:08:22.680" UserId="2292" Text="[Sharp LC-32CFE5111K][1] looks OK, if only they had a slightly smaller model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharp-LC-32CFE5111K-32-Inch-Widescreen-Freeview/dp/B015CZYM5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-theater&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464627192&amp;sr=1-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2808" RevisionGUID="03d5dcd5-6618-4481-bb0c-a733440d40d1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T17:16:10.280" UserId="2292" Comment="added 116 characters in body" Text="[Sharp LC-32CFE5111K][1] looks OK, if only they had a slightly smaller model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would also like to buy it from a real shop, but they appear not to like 28&quot; models or recording models so much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharp-LC-32CFE5111K-32-Inch-Widescreen-Freeview/dp/B015CZYM5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-theater&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464627192&amp;sr=1-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="527c52c7-3009-4801-b346-28689e01bc60" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:18:17.707" UserId="1285" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a `Raspberry Pi` + `BrickPi`, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them). The drone must also have a `camera` and be able to send the **camera stream over wifi/bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer** which sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $200 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advices or other important aspects to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10749" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="527c52c7-3009-4801-b346-28689e01bc60" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:18:17.707" UserId="1285" Text="Programmable quadcopter drones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="527c52c7-3009-4801-b346-28689e01bc60" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:18:17.707" UserId="1285" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="57ef1e77-6385-4948-900a-d8dd5ee1f24e" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:24:22.160" UserId="1285" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a `Raspberry Pi` + `BrickPi`, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them). The drone must also have a `camera` and be able to send the **camera stream over wifi/bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer** which sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $200 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advices or other important aspects to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="08aace1a-799c-460c-a762-190cebbd9d2e" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:53:35.287" UserId="1285" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a `Raspberry Pi` + `BrickPi`, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them). The drone must also have a `camera` and be able to send the **camera stream over wifi/bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer** which sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $200 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advices or other important aspects to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="fba9a40f-27e4-4035-840f-a75b38321fb0" CreationDate="2016-05-31T09:32:28.510" UserId="1285" Comment="edited body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a `Raspberry Pi` + `BrickPi`, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them). The drone must also have a `camera` and be able to send the **camera stream over wifi/bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer** which sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advices or other important aspects to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="d1e333cc-05a5-492f-877e-6787d35fb98a" CreationDate="2016-05-31T10:51:46.117" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 57 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them). The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, the sensor values of which can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="c3e0e41d-cfa5-44f0-b6bd-8f5459eaadfd" CreationDate="2016-05-31T11:38:54.730" UserId="1285" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) or it must be able to write a program to interactively steer the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, the sensor values of which can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself or on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="3cfeeac8-867e-4638-9715-75ba65e78aba" CreationDate="2016-06-01T07:50:46.323" UserId="1285" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) *or* it must be able to write a program to **interactively steer** the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, of which the sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself *or* on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice (but is no requirement) to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 10 or 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these (if possible for the given budget).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="09c26b58-dfc9-4417-ba71-4a687d9d4171" CreationDate="2016-06-01T09:19:53.900" UserId="1285" Comment="added 205 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) *or* it must be able to write a program to **interactively steer** the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images. Note that there are drones who can only store the camera stream internally and others who can send the camera stream to for instance a smartphone. The last functionality is called FPV (First Person View).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, of which the sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself *or* on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice (but is no requirement) to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 10 or 15 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these (if possible for the given budget).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2604" RevisionGUID="5d699a93-284d-40b1-84a6-704b0abfa1cc" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:11:51.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2816" RevisionGUID="964623be-d76c-43e3-99dc-79eec4ccf26a" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:36:24.227" UserId="8" Text="## Looking for technical support (&quot;my hardware doesn't work&quot;)?&#xA;&#xA;This site doesn't do technical support. Questions here that ask for technical support may be closed quickly, and are unlikely to receive answers. Instead of asking here, try these places:&#xA;&#xA;- [Reddit's /r/techsupport](https://reddit.com/r/techsupport)&#xA;- [PC Advisor forums](http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/forum/helproom-1/)&#xA;- Official support forums for [Apple](https://discussions.apple.com/welcome) and [Microsoft](https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10765" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2630" RevisionGUID="386a9dec-02c5-4c3a-b81c-0bf5c434e410" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:39:49.900" UserId="8" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Corsair CMFSL3X2-128GB 128GB Voyager is one I use myself, it's an extremely compact design, 128gb and has 90mb/s write speed, which seems to fit your specifications, however, I'm not sure about how strong the key ring attachment is, I've had this for three years now and I've had no issues so far, so I guess unless you are handling it roughly, I don't see why it could break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best thing I can find is the Samsung USB 3.0 Flash Drive FIT 128GB (MUF-128BB) which takes size reduction to the extreme. (It's smaller than my Bluetooth mouse adapter which is almost invisible). It's 130mb/s read/write speed. Only problem is that it doesn't have the capability to be attached to a keyring. But I guess you can't have everything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2563" RevisionGUID="a9c72797-d7bc-4eff-82ea-dc78a86b6b3f" CreationDate="2016-06-01T14:12:01.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="10777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2819" RevisionGUID="0b0a8356-1631-40ab-8ab4-ec5e4a5ed5f0" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:57:41.970" UserId="1246" Text="By &quot;gaming laptop&quot;, I mean a quad-core Skylake CPU with an NVIDIA graphics card... I'm not looking for a Haswell CPU or an Intel graphics card. (I'm not actually planning on using it for gaming, but I do want similar specs for other things I do.)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a thing exist? I've been looking for one, but it seems that I cannot find any that meets all of the conditions. The best I've found is the 2016 Razor Blade which doesn't have an optical drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2819" RevisionGUID="0b0a8356-1631-40ab-8ab4-ec5e4a5ed5f0" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:57:41.970" UserId="1246" Text="Touchscreen 14&quot; Gaming Laptop with DVD or BD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2819" RevisionGUID="0b0a8356-1631-40ab-8ab4-ec5e4a5ed5f0" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:57:41.970" UserId="1246" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2819" RevisionGUID="968f8da6-3963-432d-83ff-6a9334a0e5e9" CreationDate="2016-06-01T22:37:37.833" UserId="1246" Comment="edited body" Text="By &quot;gaming laptop&quot;, I mean a quad-core Skylake CPU with an NVIDIA graphics card... I'm not looking for a Haswell CPU or an Intel graphics card. (I'm not actually planning on using it for gaming, but I do want similar specs for other things I do.)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a thing exist? I've been looking for one, but it seems that I cannot find any that meets all of the conditions. The best I've found is the 2016 Razer Blade which doesn't have an optical drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="5fb1760c-c65a-4aa2-acb6-9be22649e39d" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:31:40.557" UserId="1285" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) *or* it must be able to write a program to **interactively steer** the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images. Note that there are drones who can only store the camera stream internally and others who can send the camera stream to for instance a smartphone. The last functionality is called FPV (First Person View).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, of which the sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself *or* on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice (but is no requirement) to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 10 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these (if possible for the given budget).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so if a batch of drones drops the price, it will be nice)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2823" RevisionGUID="802a16b7-e080-4894-ba60-928202b93d22" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:02:22.100" UserId="2607" Text="For my dev work, I use a Dell 7440 with 16GB of RAM on a 256GB SSD. Tried a touchscreen, and found the smaller screen with integrated touch capacity just isn't the best when it comes to smaller motions and specific points to click within code or a field. Also, the touch capacity reduces overall screen size due to additional internal hardware requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a machine with another 500GB SSD, an XPS 14, and found it not a usable as the E7440. The keyboard and integrated mousepad/touchpad aren't nearly as user friendly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife has a Folio 14 with 16 GB of ram, i7, 256gb ssd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With many dev environments running online and online repo's, and the projection over the next few years to go that route, massive amounts of internal storage for dev isn't necessary." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="62a4953f-8dc4-4001-86b4-fc03c99c1e83" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:55:48.427" UserId="2609" Text="Imagine a lego model. Is there affordable hardware to scan plastic models, like lego, layer by layer, so we could see what parts it consists of?&#xD;&#xA;I know, there are medical scanners which can do that with ultrasound, but this equipment if awfully expensive. I’m looking for something much cheaper, say, under $500 and it does not have to be off-the-shelve. I'm equally interested in components which can be used to build it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="62a4953f-8dc4-4001-86b4-fc03c99c1e83" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:55:48.427" UserId="2609" Text="Plastic model scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="62a4953f-8dc4-4001-86b4-fc03c99c1e83" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:55:48.427" UserId="2609" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="f351a530-5c26-4193-aaae-f41dbfe88f28" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:21:03.417" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="8e713e40-c064-4454-9775-9e303fc48bd0" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:24:03.883" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 106 characters in body" Text="I consider buying a new desktop computer and I work on academic MIP optimization problems with Gurobi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs cannot be leveraged by MIP solvers, so my question rather concerns the choice of the CPU (and possible related configuration matters). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendation for a CPU fitting in a standard desktop computer which purpose is primarily to solve MIP problems?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="c938dfd4-9c17-4fd3-89be-e0b0ef3e2610" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:24:14.743" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="10810" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="39ddbd31-8d9b-4c1b-9ad7-7989ff4ef90f" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:49:34.870" UserId="2609" Comment="Made the question more specific" Text="I know, there are medical scanners which can do that with ultrasound, but this equipment if awfully expensive. I’m looking for something much cheaper, say, under $500 and it does not have to be off-the-shelve. I'm equally interested in components which can be used to build it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's consider a specific example. I have an empty plastic bottle with a pump (e.g. for liquid soap). I would like to scan it with a step of 1/8'' and get an image of a bottle reveling the internal structure of the bottle at each step. At the first step I will see only the outline of the bottle walls, but as I progress deeper I should be able to see the pump and the straw inside. Something like XRay for plastic with configurable depth of readings.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10811" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="39ddbd31-8d9b-4c1b-9ad7-7989ff4ef90f" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:49:34.870" UserId="2609" Comment="Made the question more specific" Text="Is there affordable hardware to scan plastic models and reveal their internal structure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2581" RevisionGUID="373784b2-68c0-4d42-90b7-54c10a3c70ce" CreationDate="2016-06-04T02:10:12.937" UserId="40" Comment="added 284 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a qwerty, flat keyboard with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a keyboard that requires as little force as possible to type. The keyboard I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price and shipping locations are not an issue. (and it should be a keyboard, not a speech recognition software or some BCI device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the [Cherry MX Red has 45 centinewton (cN) of actuation force](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX) but I find the travel distance to be too long (2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom). I could customize the keyboard to be 2mm to bottom but that would be quite tedious, all the more so as I need more than one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All other Cherry MX have pretty much the same travel distance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4][![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(animated gifs from [keyboardco](http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/), can be easily tried with a [Cherry MX Switch Tester](http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more comparisons from http://www.pcper.com/reviews/General-Tech/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Explained-and-Compared:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also aware of the Topre 30g switch (e.g. present in the  [Ducky 104UB Realforce Mechanical Keyboard](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1508) and [a few others](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce#Realforce_Model_Reference)), but it has a 4 mm travel distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(they seem to mostly sell in Japan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some specifications regarding the [Topre Realforce 104UB Silent](https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rf104&amp;pid=xf11ts):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11][![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Romer-G Mechanical Switches have a lower operating point (1.5 mm) and key travel (3 mm). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are present in the [Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (920-006385)](http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-920-006385/dp/B00N3OELPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the following graph, the blue curve is a Romer-G Mechanical Switch, the white curve of is a typical mechanical switch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newly released (June 2016) Tesoro’s Low-Profile 'Agile' Switches are quite interesting: the full travel of the switches is 3.5 mm. Unfortunately, they haven't announced the actuation force nor the operation point. [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIA8Yf9DE1w)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ErgoDox EZ](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ergodox-ez-an-incredible-mechanical-keyboard#/) (open source, released in 2015) has a 35 cN key switch but the travel distance is still 2 mm:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ergodox-ez.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][16]][16]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I have run across the [Comfort Keyboard Split Magic Keyboard USB1-2BLK](http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Keyboard-Split-Magic-USB1-2BLK/dp/B005CRGMYO), as well as its non-compact version the  [Soft Touch ErgoMagic Keyboard](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm#.Vx_8V_krK3c). &lt;strike&gt;It looks quite thin but&lt;/strike&gt; According to one [seller](http://www.fentek-ind.com/split_magic.htm) (Sam@fentek-ind.com, Monday-Friday 8a-4p Arizona MST, P: (928)639-0161   F: (928)639-0551) the key travel is 3.5 mm, and I don't want a split keyboard. (the seller also told me &quot;we do not have a no split version of that keyboard and I do not have a plot of the key force and travel.&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][17]][17]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As well as a non-compact version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][18]][18]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][19]][19]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4spjm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QkAhhm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UUN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/64yA3.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tZWNe.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LzbnZ.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/aQSMz.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DhRfsm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jYKH8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/yXSY5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s8IYI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/kN8uG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/hXI5P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WXCJwm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/x5yYk.png&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SnK63.png&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6TIQNm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [18]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/inbt4m.png&#xD;&#xA;  [19]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NvO9zm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2826" RevisionGUID="d01f6e11-d9a6-4743-9f48-28254ad78e0b" CreationDate="2016-06-04T02:18:21.383" UserId="40" Text="The [SteelSeries Apex M800 Customizable Mechanical Gaming Keyboard](http://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Customizable-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00SB6DO6M) uses a [QS1 Switch](https://deskthority.net/wiki/SteelSeries_QS1), and a low-profile layout. Around 180 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Switch Type: Mechanical&#xD;&#xA;- Switch Name: SteelSeries QS1&#xD;&#xA;- Throw Depth: 3 mm&#xD;&#xA;- Actuation and Reset Depth: 1.5 mm&#xD;&#xA;- Actuation Force Needed: 45cN&#xD;&#xA;- 60 Million Click Lifetime&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/oayhC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UiKNA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2833" RevisionGUID="a1171f46-026b-46b7-9d7c-7f3f5962c3dc" CreationDate="2016-06-04T15:14:17.310" UserId="2618" Text="Basically I need a mouse shaped like a pen that you can use in place of a mouse, although I would most likely use it as a companion to my mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case specifically would be drawing simple sketches during video calls, where I can share my screen, fire up a simple paint app, draw a few boxes and arrows, and annotate them with some doodles. Perhaps some scribbling on documents too. Nothing particularly elaborate then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a couple of candidates but they had some questionable features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Genius Wireless Pen Mouse][1] - seemed like a good find but the left click is performed by pressing the tip of the pen, which I'm not sure is a good idea; I think a dedicated left click button would suit me better&#xD;&#xA; - [Penclic][2] - the first device I got excited about until I realised the &quot;docking station&quot; was in fact a mouse and the &quot;pen&quot; was there for dragging it around; maybe it could be used in my scenario for the lack of any better choice but it's not what it was designed for apparently&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless I came up with really poor search terms today the choice seems to be very limited. Is there anything wrong with my use case? Am I one of very few who needs that? Or maybe there is a better way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geniusnet.com/Genius/wSite/ct?xItem=47513&amp;ctNode=105&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.penclic.se/penclic-mus/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="2833" RevisionGUID="a1171f46-026b-46b7-9d7c-7f3f5962c3dc" CreationDate="2016-06-04T15:14:17.310" UserId="2618" Text="Wanted pen-like mouse alternative for a PC (stylus, pencil, ballpen)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="2833" RevisionGUID="a1171f46-026b-46b7-9d7c-7f3f5962c3dc" CreationDate="2016-06-04T15:14:17.310" UserId="2618" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="2835" RevisionGUID="5268a3b8-d2f2-4910-80dc-22385206d1cd" CreationDate="2016-06-05T01:00:06.727" UserId="2624" Text="What you're describing here is a drawing tablet, or a pen tablet, but usually all of these are made to act like a real pen, so left clicking is by pressing the pen tip on the pad's surface, or the screen in case of Cintiq or Surface pro or Samsung tablet 10.1 ... Etc many of these has even pen pressure sensitivity, some have tilt and rotation sensitivit. You said you need a separate dedicated left click button, usually these pens have one or two buttons on the side, usually used for right and middle mouse click, but in most cased, they come equipped with a software to customize what this do. The price tag is something to consider, usually the more pro (for artists) and the larger the pad is, the more expensive it is, but since you don't care about pressure sensitiviy, you don't need the high end. If I werr you, I would check the specs in order to see if you can customize the side clicks to left click before making a purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="2824" RevisionGUID="1680cccf-7f60-48fb-a615-170605e45aad" CreationDate="2016-06-05T03:33:33.103" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="11849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2770" RevisionGUID="666f3412-5aa4-4602-9c70-743e5af914d9" CreationDate="2016-06-05T05:38:56.453" UserId="2533" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I consider buying a new desktop computer and I work on academic MIP optimization problems with Gurobi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs cannot be leveraged by MIP solvers, so my question rather concerns the choice of the CPU (and possible related configuration matters). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendation for a CPU fitting in a standard desktop computer (=available at computer retail stores) which purpose is primarily to solve MIP problems?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2644" RevisionGUID="aad54b53-f8f5-4d18-9cbb-a98d5cf0b974" CreationDate="2016-06-05T07:13:36.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="11859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3837" RevisionGUID="20ba1d05-3955-4961-b35b-36d184dffe22" CreationDate="2016-06-05T16:45:33.373" UserId="3630" Text="If money is not the issue, go for a Lenovo P50 which is already mentioned in the previous answer.&#xD;&#xA;I have one with Xeon E3-1505, 4k display, Samsung 950 SSD, 16GB RAM (ECC DDR4 and you can have 64GB max), it has a Quadro M2000M Graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard quality is beyond any doubt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the absolute dream is the cooling of the system. Most of the time the fans stand still. Where the heat goes? I have no idea - maybe it is beamed directly into space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jokes aside, I have been a Thinkpad user since 2003 (A31p, Z61p, W500) and have waited over 6 years until Lenovo offered something of &quot;Thinkpad&quot; quality. This is it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11873" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2439" RevisionGUID="e9555f73-f99f-4f62-a5d4-a216d9a3573d" CreationDate="2016-06-05T22:16:35.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="11875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3841" RevisionGUID="e0057173-8c54-4fff-a0c9-1aff3156c915" CreationDate="2016-06-06T02:34:31.380" UserId="3634" Text="A bit late to the party on this one, but I can tell you to avoid (at least for now) the Dell docks that may have been recommended to you at the time of your XPS-13 purchase. I tried both docks on two separate XPS-13s, and neither dock worked correctly. The Dell forums are filled with customers angry with the failings of the TB-15 dock, and it's not even offered for sale on their website any longer. However, it is still available on Amazon with no mention of the hardware difficulties, so beware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Cable Matters adapter that Allan suggested above, and unfortunately the one I ordered from Amazon arrived DOA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one adapter that I did find very useful for me is (Sad to say) Dell's own [DA200 adapter][1]. It plugs into that USB-C port and gives you an ethernet port, USB3.0, VGA and HDMI ports. Pretty handy and works flawlessly for me every time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've also heard some people had great success with the [HooToo Shuttle][2]. There are various versions of the Shuttle, one of which has another USB-C port that could be used for charging too. That sounds great, except I really need DisplayPort support. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, I've had this laptop for about three months now and I still can't find an adapter that does exactly what I'm looking for. Hope you do better, and if you do, share it with us!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://accessories.ap.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=sg&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&amp;cs=sgbsd1&amp;sku=470-abnl&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hootoo.com/ht-uc001-usb-type-c-hub-charging-hdmi-apple-pd.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3843" RevisionGUID="1649b664-c804-4a84-81cb-2c5c8858da65" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:50:46.480" UserId="3636" Text="I am looking for an Android tablet which can easily run multiple weeks or even months while being hooked up to a power source.&#xD;&#xA;I want to use the tablet for automatically taking screenshots of websites, taking from a queue which is being filled constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The (no-name) tablets I am using currently get really hot very fast and seem to slow down because of that, as the android phone (samsung s3 neo) are taking three times as many screenshots per hour than the tablets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what do I need?&#xD;&#xA;A decent processor and RAM, I do not care about battery life, it just needs to sustain working a long time without getting too hot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3843" RevisionGUID="1649b664-c804-4a84-81cb-2c5c8858da65" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:50:46.480" UserId="3636" Text="Android Tablet for long time usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11882" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3843" RevisionGUID="1649b664-c804-4a84-81cb-2c5c8858da65" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:50:46.480" UserId="3636" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11892" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3843" RevisionGUID="1daa8f2e-d37b-437a-bf80-d34e8fd1910a" CreationDate="2016-06-06T10:30:55.840" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an Android tablet which can easily run multiple weeks or even months while being hooked up to a power source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use the tablet for automatically taking screenshots of websites, taking from a queue which is being filled constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The (no-name) tablets I am using currently get really hot very fast and seem to slow down as a result, so the Android phone (Samsung S3 Neo) are taking three times as many screenshots per hour than the tablets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a decent processor and RAM&#xD;&#xA;- battery life irrelevant, it will be powered&#xD;&#xA;- must sustain working a long time without getting too hot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3846" RevisionGUID="b56482d9-c27b-4b4d-a022-2fa0eaf1f006" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:03:18.340" UserId="57" Text="I have a first generation [Asus Transformer (TF101)][1] that I leave plugged in constantly. It is used as a digital picture frame and wall mounted home automation control panel. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a bit aged at this point, but it does run Chrome (versus the default browser from a few years ago). My assumption is that Chrome will work for you, as I have very few problems with Chrome on the large variety of sites I utilize. Prior to it becoming a permanent fixture to my wall, it was used to watch flash videos (yes, it can handle flash) in addition to other web surfing duties.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus Transformer TF101][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon currently sells this tablet for $70 (used) for the 16GB model and $290 (new) for the 32GB model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several newer generations, but I do not know the differences between them and this first generation one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had no problems with heat with this tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My one complaint has been that the speakers are very poor. Even at full volume, it can be hard to hear when the tablet is sitting on a coffee table 4 feet from you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tablet can be upgraded from Honeycomb (3.1) to Ice Cream (4.x) for sure. I have a version of [CyanogenMod][3] installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Transformer-Tf101-10-1-inch-Tablet/dp/B004U78J1G&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/UH5Oh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cyanogenmod.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3847" RevisionGUID="3f07625f-7bc2-4dd0-890e-da0bd0ae7e15" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:12:45.823" UserId="57" Text="A new tablet (versus my previous answer) is the [Samsung Galaxy Tab][1]. This is several years newer than the Transformer and faster. It is also thinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When my Transformer because a wall fixture, this was the replacement I purchased. The Amazon review says that it comes with Honeycomb (3.0), but I assume that is outdated because mine arrived with Lollipop (5.0). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 inch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't keep this one on constantly, but I do use it for multiple hours at a time watching Netflix, Youtube or other video streams. The battery is great. When I have it plugged in while watching these videos, there is no excessive heat. As a bonus, the sound is a lot better than the Transformer too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon currently sells the 16GB version for $150 new and the 32GB version for $150 used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-10-1-Inch-16GB-Wi-Fi/dp/B00519RW1U&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/20I8K.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="d41b5119-b278-4c4b-b074-aecc01867430" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:23:37.613" UserId="2566" Text="My previous post was deleted due to 'off-topic' but I believe I'm within topic &quot;the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task&quot;. I need help engineering my effort. Other than the workstations, no hardware has been purchased since I am having trouble solving my task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I need help with: Connect 4 workstations to a KVM (or similar) in Office A, then have a KVM (or similar) in Office B that connects/controls those 4 workstations in Office A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Office A is simple: Use a KVM to connect 4 workstations to the same Monitor, Keyboard, and Mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The part I can't figure out, and need some help. In Office B is a different monitor, keyboard and mouse sitting on desk connected to a different KVM. I'd like to push the first button on the KVM and see the desktop from the first workstation in Office A (and be able to use the keyboard/mouse). If I hit the second button, then I'll see the second workstation in Office A. 3rd button, 3rd workstation. 4th button, 4th workstation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No workstation is actually in Office B, they are all in Office A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this special type of KVM, or is there another device that will help achieve my task? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="d41b5119-b278-4c4b-b074-aecc01867430" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:23:37.613" UserId="2566" Text="How to control 4 workstations in another room?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11903" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="d41b5119-b278-4c4b-b074-aecc01867430" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:23:37.613" UserId="2566" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11907" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3847" RevisionGUID="94aaf8a4-3198-4bd9-892f-9039c58a17c4" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:28:06.777" UserId="1" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="A new tablet (versus my previous answer) is the [Samsung Galaxy Tab][1]. This is several years newer than the Transformer and faster. It is also thinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When my Transformer became a wall fixture, this was the replacement I purchased. The Amazon review says that it comes with Honeycomb (3.0), but I assume that is outdated because mine arrived with Lollipop (5.0). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 inch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't keep this one on constantly, but I do use it for multiple hours at a time watching Netflix, Youtube or other video streams. The battery is great. When I have it plugged in while watching these videos, there is no excessive heat. As a bonus, the sound is a lot better than the Transformer too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon currently sells the 16GB version for $150 new and the 32GB version for $150 used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-10-1-Inch-16GB-Wi-Fi/dp/B00519RW1U&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/20I8K.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11909" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="0c342634-05da-41ca-8386-61e4cdeace9e" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:29:32.700" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[2793],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="11911" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="fc677c19-8666-44a2-9a79-cb0ff95cf201" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:29:44.250" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2793/extended-kvm-to-another-kvm-possible" />
  <row Id="11913" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="3850" RevisionGUID="509ef7ff-0148-409c-959d-e42924c5ffd6" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:29:44.250" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="11914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3853" RevisionGUID="a50739fa-e4c8-474b-b9f2-0cd3668f0e14" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:33:06.190" UserId="2426" Text="You must consider the following possible scenarios that would lead to data-loss:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 1. hardware failure&#xD;&#xA; 2. water (inundation)&#xD;&#xA; 3. fire&#xD;&#xA; 4. earthquake&#xD;&#xA; 5. time degradation of backup medium&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider this setup:&#xD;&#xA;2x 1TB hard drives of different types and manufacturers, RAID / copy on both the same information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keep drives in separate locations (aka different homes). This should take care of problems 1,2 (if the inundation is localized aka in your home) and 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - To protect from 4 you can either buy or build a very solid steel case or consider the backing up your _crucial part_ online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - To protect from 5. you should consider backing up your data on [Archival Paper][1]. You can get 6 MiB / sheet of paper (two sides).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Paper is different. Do you remember the punched cards? EBCDIC and all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this stuff. For years, cards were the main storage medium for the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; source code. I agree that 100K+ programs were... unhandly, but hey,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; only real programmers dared to write applications of this size. And&#xD;&#xA;&gt; used cards were good as notepads, too. Punched tapes were also common.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; And even the most weird codings, like CDC or EBCDIC, were readable by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; humans (I mean, by real programmers).&#xD;&#xA;http://ollydbg.de/Paperbak/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More here: http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/134427-a-paper-based-backup-solution-not-as-stupid-as-it-sounds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/a/374615/493847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3854" RevisionGUID="c1dc19b7-8a82-4fed-a765-705dc0cf05d5" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:16:21.433" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Maybe this isn't the best question to ask, but I am looking for recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a good general use laptop that needs to run Quickbooks and MS Office.  I'd like at least an i5 Intel proc, 8 GB of RAM, SSD would be nice but HDD is fine, and the kicker: 17.3&quot; screen.  I'd like it to be priced around $1000 USD.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been browsing the major manufacturer sites (Dell, HP, Lenovo) but I haven't really found the best deal.  I have seen a couple that would fit, but I'd like some recommendations or alternatives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11918" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3854" RevisionGUID="c1dc19b7-8a82-4fed-a765-705dc0cf05d5" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:16:21.433" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="I'm looking for a good general use laptop with a few requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11919" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3854" RevisionGUID="c1dc19b7-8a82-4fed-a765-705dc0cf05d5" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:16:21.433" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3855" RevisionGUID="985ae554-346c-46a9-bfcc-68403bc58744" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:29:23.163" UserId="3640" Text="What does exactly &quot;taking screenshots&quot; mean? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) You are using the tablet's camera while looking at the monitor, or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2)  capturing the tablet's screen (so that the page is rendered on the tablet itself?). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the first case, you could be better off with different kind of hardware (e.g. raspberry Pi with PiCamera which you can program at will). In the second case, you might open the tablet and put a heatsink on (again, Raspberry Pi heatsinks with self adhesive thermmally conductive tape would probably fit a tablet's SoC nicely). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, I think that having the consumer-grade tablet plugged in 24/7 is very hard on the tablet. As alternative, you could use professional-grade Android hardware, which is used for electronic cash registers, such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.customamerica.com/point-of-sales/fiscal-solutions-and-cash-registers/touch-screen-cash-registers/pos-tablet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(don't know about the specs of those, but I assume they are built do be plugged 24/7, I could be mistaken)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3856" RevisionGUID="91fa2a5c-6441-49f9-8eb2-d6a72d41bf40" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:31:40.583" UserId="1242" Text="ASUS makes good general use Laptops. I've owned an ASUS laptop a couple generations older than this one and had no issues other than the battery life left a lot to be desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard feels very solid (similar to a MacBook Pro).&#xD;&#xA;Trackpad could be a little better but worked quite well.&#xD;&#xA;Solid USB other connections. Not wiggly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image courtesy of Newegg.com][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS X751LX][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JuDUW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9B53PV8864" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11922" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="91be3988-fb3b-45cb-947b-b4565881f0e3" CreationDate="2016-06-06T16:41:10.687" UserId="2409" Comment="added 210 characters in body" Text="I am looking to purchase a laptop pc for running Windows 10. I am looking for something that is strong and rugged like the old Thinkpads used to be. Something with a strong and &quot;non-squishy&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need 16 GB RAM minimum with an SSD driver and at the very least a 14&quot; screen. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. 16 GB Ram (32 GB would be awesome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. SSD drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. 14&quot; screen or higher&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 6. Solid build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 7. Solid keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I already have a Macbook Pro which I love, however I would like to have a dedicated Windows machine rather than run a VM or use Boot Camp. I find the 16 GB Max Ram in the Macbook Pro is just not enough to run a Virtual Machine smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just wanted to post up that I ended up getting a Lenovo Thinkpad P50 and have been very happy with it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2637" RevisionGUID="85cb9949-fc30-49ae-90fa-2452519338b1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T16:45:15.767" UserId="2409" Comment="Added what I ended up going with" Text="I am looking to purchase a laptop pc for running Windows 10. I am looking for something that is strong and rugged like the old Thinkpads used to be. Something with a strong and &quot;non-squishy&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need 16 GB RAM minimum with an SSD driver and at the very least a 14&quot; screen. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. 16 GB Ram (32 GB would be awesome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. SSD drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. 14&quot; screen or higher&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 6. Solid build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 7. Solid keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I already have a Macbook Pro which I love, however I would like to have a dedicated Windows machine rather than run a VM or use Boot Camp. I find the 16 GB Max Ram in the Macbook Pro is just not enough to run a Virtual Machine smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just wanted to post up that I ended up getting a Lenovo Thinkpad P50 and have been very happy with it. I was able to upgrade the RAM to 64 GB. I installed an M-2 SSD drive. Plenty of ports. Nice solid feel. I even purchased a docking station for $200 which gave me additional Display Ports. I currently run two external monitors and the internal display. Runs Visual Studio and SQL Server without issue. I also have installed games like Civ V and Supreme Commander: Forged alliance. They both run great on high detail." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11924" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3856" RevisionGUID="d2e2ef32-1914-4adb-9322-faf446f3930d" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:08:31.577" UserId="1242" Comment="arg typo" Text="**Before buying an ASUS laptop, please read [this][1] first.**&#xD;&#xA;-Thanks [ArtOfCode][2] for pointing this out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS makes good general use Laptops. I've owned an ASUS laptop a couple generations older than this one and had no issues other than the battery life left a lot to be desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard feels very solid (similar to a MacBook Pro).&#xD;&#xA;Trackpad could be a little better but worked quite well.&#xD;&#xA;Solid USB other connections. Not wiggly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image courtesy of Newegg.com][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS X751LX][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://web.archive.org/web/20160606135858/http://teletext.zaibatsutel.net/post/145370716258/deadupdate-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JuDUW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9B53PV8864" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3857" RevisionGUID="f3bac8a0-b92e-4afa-836e-1d58dd958228" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:20:49.627" UserId="67" Text="An alternative option, if you are willing to use something other than an android tablet, would be to use a **Raspberry Pi**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It can run for weeks without any problems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's very power efficient, since it lacks a bult-in display, battery, and a lot of the other hardware typically found on Android tablets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's cheap, with the cheapest model, the Pi Zero, costing just $5, and the one with WiFi, bluetooth, and a 64-bit quadcore processor costing $35&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi can also run Android, so you can use the software you already wrote, but can also run Linux. It's something I'd definitely look at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11926" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3857" RevisionGUID="5fbd1d22-1cfe-44d8-a396-b847f36bd722" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:34:22.133" UserId="67" Comment="added 97 characters in body" Text="An alternative option, if you are willing to use something other than an android tablet, would be to use a **Raspberry Pi**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It can run for weeks without any problems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's very power efficient, since it lacks a bult-in display, battery, and a lot of the other hardware typically found on Android tablets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It's cheap, with the cheapest model, the Pi Zero, costing just $5, and the one with WiFi, bluetooth, and a 64-bit quadcore processor costing $35&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi can also run Android, so you can use the software you already wrote, but can also run Linux. It can also run &quot;headless&quot;, i.e with no display connected, and can still do graphics processing. It's something I'd definitely look at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3858" RevisionGUID="88a8b41f-34e6-4376-b6da-a586f9e1422c" CreationDate="2016-06-07T07:03:36.803" UserId="3630" Text="There are plenty of good answers already. Let me sum up and add my experience:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - use hard disks, not tapes&#xD;&#xA; - use actually magnetic HDDs no SSDs (not only a question of cost, but also long-term storage, see http://www.anandtech.com/show/9248/the-truth-about-ssd-data-retention)&#xD;&#xA; - it's questionable if server HDDs (build for 24/7, fewer spin up/down)&#xD;&#xA;   or notebook HDDs (the complement) are better. If in doubt, use both types.&#xD;&#xA; - I encrypt my backup hard drives, so the data is not easy prey&#xD;&#xA; - use some kind of tray (internal or external) mechanism for easy swap&#xD;&#xA; - I use an internal bay to have good SATA connectivity, USB is slower,    but if you do not have eSATA on your laptop of course go with USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You didn't mention if you need to backup Windows or Linux, or both, so it's hard to suggest a backup solution. Personally, I've been using http://rsnapshot.org/ for like 6 years which is ultra fast, the backups are ultra accessible (like you are used from your file system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another solution might be unison https://www.cis.upenn.edu/~bcpierce/unison/ which I use to sync remote servers. It might be overkill for the unidirectional way of a backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And last but not least: Keep your backups **geographically** distributed! You probably didn't mean &quot;catastrophe&quot; like in the movies, but in case you did, you do not want to have all of your backups in one city/country/continent.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3860" RevisionGUID="1d98e67d-2c37-44d4-bbc0-01f92503a34e" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:15:53.623" UserId="3630" Text="I have to admit, I had to educate myself about Gurobi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like it is a software suite for linear optimization problems. It also seems, it is a regular one, i.e. with &quot;simple&quot; C++ and R sequential implementations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that, any CPU in your budget will do. You should just try - within your budget limits - get the best clock/cache/cores combination. An AVX512 capable CPU seems to make sense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But let me offer an extended perspective on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If performance is your main concern, you should have a look at GPU computing. As for GPU accelerated solvers, see e.g. https://developer.nvidia.com/amgx, which gives promising speedups of a factor of 10 within your reach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe, spend only reasonable money on an average CPU. If you get the Gurobi vendor to support AmgX, you can buy also a reasonable CUDA-capable GPU and still have speedup by a factor of 10, which would not be possible by any economically feasible CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See also e.g. http://vratis.com/blog/ OpenFOAM and other software does actually already support AmgX, so maybe it would not take too much effort to convince Gurobi to think about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3861" RevisionGUID="75e588ab-7b1d-4d4b-b0c7-911707b65a59" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:24:23.180" UserId="1285" Text="Found some alternatives (which do not fulfill all requirements) during my search:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CoDrone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/728836843/codrone-learn-to-code-with-programmable-drone/description&#xD;&#xA; - http://community.robolink.com/codrone/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drone Pi (Raspberry Pi + MultWii)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Drone-Pi/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3858" RevisionGUID="7470e25a-c3ad-4b90-af0b-8d3fb073a314" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:26:03.600" UserId="3630" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="There are plenty of good answers already. Let me sum up and add my experience:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - use hard disks, not tapes&#xD;&#xA; - use actually magnetic HDDs no SSDs (not only a question of cost, but also long-term storage, see http://www.anandtech.com/show/9248/the-truth-about-ssd-data-retention)&#xD;&#xA; - it's debatable if server HDDs (build for 24/7, fewer spin up/down)&#xD;&#xA;   or notebook HDDs (the complement) are better. If in doubt, use both types.&#xD;&#xA; - I encrypt my backup hard drives, so the data is not easy prey&#xD;&#xA; - use some kind of tray (internal or external) mechanism for easy swap&#xD;&#xA; - I use an internal bay to have good SATA connectivity, USB is slower,    but if you do not have eSATA on your laptop of course go with USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You didn't mention if you need to backup Windows or Linux, or both, so it's hard to suggest a backup solution. Personally, I've been using http://rsnapshot.org/ for like 6 years which is ultra fast, the backups are ultra accessible (like you are used from your file system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another solution might be unison https://www.cis.upenn.edu/~bcpierce/unison/ which I use to sync remote servers. It might be overkill for the unidirectional way of a backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And last but not least: Keep your backups **geographically** distributed! You probably didn't mean &quot;catastrophe&quot; like in the movies, but in case you did, you do not want to have all of your backups in one city/country/continent.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11937" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="ca89fbc2-3862-478c-9999-ed70bf316e87" CreationDate="2016-06-07T10:02:13.813" UserId="3648" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however in those links show that iris 6100 is slightly better.  &#xD;&#xA; http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xD;&#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="ca89fbc2-3862-478c-9999-ed70bf316e87" CreationDate="2016-06-07T10:02:13.813" UserId="3648" Text="Which laptop do you recommend, i5 5287u with iris 6100 or i5 6200 with nvidia 920m?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="ca89fbc2-3862-478c-9999-ed70bf316e87" CreationDate="2016-06-07T10:02:13.813" UserId="3648" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3865" RevisionGUID="ba0933ab-99bd-46b5-a933-c7b1389ef492" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:01:10.047" UserId="3646" Text="This does not answer your Question directly, but provides another approch:  &#xD;&#xA;I would keep the current device and go with a solution wich cuts the 24/7 charge to some hours per day. This stops the overheating and you do not need to buy a new tablet.  &#xD;&#xA;To do this I would buy a time switch, which is a device that switches a socket on and off based on the times you set on the device. This way you can keep all devices plugged in and the device disables the power source without further do.  &#xD;&#xA;To have this work perfectly you have to find a time span which holds your charge at your desired level across all devices, as an example 3 hours loading, 3 hours on battery should keep your devices over critical battery levels. However if the power consume across all devices is to far part you should consider using a second time switch for this device/s.  &#xD;&#xA;I would group the devices based on battery capacity and charging speed and aim to keep the battery level between 20-80%. Also note that the Li-Ion battery does not charge in a linear way and significantly charges slower from about 80% charge level." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3866" RevisionGUID="822eb95e-c0b9-4ccc-9cd2-150237b389ad" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:26:45.103" UserId="3646" Text="I own the [Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 10.1 (T530) WiFi edition ~260€][1] ([LTE Available ~290€][2]) running Android 6.0.1 through an unofficial CyanogenMod port, which works well. The sound is loud and clear, but really depends on source quality sometimes.  &#xD;&#xA;It has:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - Supports Lollipop 5.0.1 (up to 6.x by community)&#xD;&#xA; - Decent speakers&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card reader&#xD;&#xA; - Cases with stand and/or keyboards (not included, around 20-40€)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Galaxy Tab 4 10.1][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00JL6KMRA&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00JL6KMRA/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/lsp6j.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11960" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="25e4c781-b2be-4af0-a424-a18a850a1cdd" CreationDate="2016-06-08T10:47:26.230" UserId="3648" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however in those links show that iris 6100 is slightly better.  &#xD;&#xA; [iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xD;&#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="5f50485e-6785-4c7c-a939-d24c1d5e11df" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:02:51.813" UserId="2601" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and what chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3 Avexir Core Series MPower, Cas11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Z97 PC Mate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Z97-P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11962" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="5f50485e-6785-4c7c-a939-d24c1d5e11df" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:02:51.813" UserId="2601" Text="ATX 1150 Intel-compatible motherboard under $110 for gaming / graphic design PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11963" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="5f50485e-6785-4c7c-a939-d24c1d5e11df" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:02:51.813" UserId="2601" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="0129877a-b457-46ed-b3f3-a0a86b6a7673" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:17:30.653" UserId="2601" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3 Avexir Core Series MPower, Cas11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Z97 PC Mate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Z97-P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="cc1b8e3e-c830-4068-81d0-70c953a74314" CreationDate="2016-06-08T13:08:54.433" UserId="3657" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Fotos, browsing the Web and the likes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent screen  &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="cc1b8e3e-c830-4068-81d0-70c953a74314" CreationDate="2016-06-08T13:08:54.433" UserId="3657" Text="Laptop recommendation 800$ with good touch and feel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="cc1b8e3e-c830-4068-81d0-70c953a74314" CreationDate="2016-06-08T13:08:54.433" UserId="3657" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="ed198beb-b65d-4673-88ec-14cb81b825af" CreationDate="2016-06-08T14:32:48.533" UserId="2601" Comment="Added information" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3 Avexir Core Series MPower, Cas11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I believe I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max (once again correct me if I'm wrong) - and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't requiered or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Z97 PC Mate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Z97-P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="b970dc02-3ce2-413b-9496-87d0591feae8" CreationDate="2016-06-08T14:36:59.647" UserId="2601" Comment="Added information" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3 Avexir Core Series MPower, Cas11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Z97 PC Mate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Z97-P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="94f6558f-39c1-414e-8a14-7ff487906ac4" CreationDate="2016-06-08T14:43:17.603" UserId="2601" Comment="Added links to the motherboards I consider buying" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3 Avexir Core Series MPower, Cas11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [MSI Z97 PC Mate][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus Z97-P][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="0ce467c4-2d17-492b-b499-e5c22eae5f22" CreationDate="2016-06-08T15:48:53.193" UserId="3657" Comment="added 187 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Fotos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11973" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="7dc9ddee-9e38-4a3f-b6a5-042bf0d73bf9" CreationDate="2016-06-08T15:54:42.970" UserId="3657" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Fotos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="2a07031c-1fc7-44f9-839f-556837755a6e" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:11:28.237" UserId="3648" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however it appears that  in the following links  iris 6100 is slightly better than even `nvidia gt 920m`.  &#xD;&#xA; [iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xD;&#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="0e0ecce5-b961-46c5-9cf1-4b9108cbb853" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:32:38.630" UserId="3648" Comment="added 205 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however it appears that  in the following links  iris 6100 is slightly better than even `nvidia gt 920m`.  &#xD;&#xA; [iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xD;&#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    bitcoin mining score for GeForce 920M is 39.92 mHash/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    bitcoin mining score for Core i5 5257U is 54.21 mHash/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Single core performance for i5 5287U  outgoes even many intel i7 processors.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="6cd38699-2e34-4d03-bbe9-1976abd2f2b9" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:54:56.543" UserId="1" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Fotos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3872" RevisionGUID="41f2fdaf-0f6f-48eb-9193-48fe480065cc" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:08:28.027" UserId="1" Text="Buy a used 15&quot; MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - an SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The used market shifts quickly, but right now there's a [Mid 2010 15&quot; with 8GB RAM and a 256GB SSD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS) on eBay for $499, buy-it-now. [Preserved for posterity when the eBay page goes down](https://web.archive.org/web/20160608175800/http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worst case, buy one with a normal HDD and [install an SSD yourself](http://www.cnet.com/how-to/upgrade-your-macbook-install-ssd-hard-drive/). It's not that hard, and you can use any standard SSD. Plus, you now have an external HDD for use as a Time Machine backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; non-Retina Pros have a 1440x900 IPS (high viewing angles) display, and can run an external display or two without a hitch. I use my 13&quot; on my desk every day, the quality is comparable to my Dell U2515H. It's also bright enough to be used on its own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple makes the most usable trackpads I've ever touched. I haven't used a mouse in weeks; I use the trackpad on my 13&quot; Pro and my external Magic Trackpad 2 (same technology). No one comes close in terms of feel and usability - even simple things like thumb/palm rejection are implemented flawlessy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You shouldn't have any problems staying well within your $800 budget, especially if you're not looking for newer hardware (which you don't need for the tasks you mention, a 2009 Pro would blow those out of the water).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A common argument against Apple machines is that they're 'too expensive' - actually, [they're cheaper to own over their lifetime](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/415/1) when you take into account resale value (which Apple laptops hold, and no other laptops do)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11978" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3872" RevisionGUID="d26907f5-5ee5-4d6a-ba78-9d9f18804ab8" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:16:59.433" UserId="1" Comment="added 618 characters in body" Text="Buy a used 15&quot; MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - an SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The used market shifts quickly, but right now there's a [Mid 2010 15&quot; with 8GB RAM and a 256GB SSD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS) on eBay for $499, buy-it-now. [Preserved for posterity when the eBay page goes down](https://web.archive.org/web/20160608175800/http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worst case, buy one with a normal HDD and [install an SSD yourself](http://www.cnet.com/how-to/upgrade-your-macbook-install-ssd-hard-drive/). It's not that hard, and you can use any standard SSD. Plus, you now have an external HDD for use as a Time Machine backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; non-Retina Pros have a 1440x900 IPS (high viewing angles) display, and can run an external display or two without a hitch. I use my 13&quot; on my desk every day, the quality is comparable to my Dell U2515H. It's also bright enough to be used on its own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple makes the most usable trackpads I've ever touched. I haven't used a mouse in weeks; I use the trackpad on my 13&quot; Pro and my external Magic Trackpad 2 (same technology). No one comes close in terms of feel and usability - even simple things like thumb/palm rejection are implemented flawlessy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You shouldn't have any problems staying well within your $800 budget, especially if you're not looking for newer hardware (which you don't need for the tasks you mention, a 2009 Pro would blow those out of the water).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're made of aluminum, a.k.a. they're built like a tank. It's *hard* to actually damage one to the point you would notice it in daily use. I dropped (flung, actually) a 2009 13&quot; Pro from a backpack about five feet in the air. It flew across the room, squarely hitting the corner a steel shelving unit. It left a nice dent in the casing, and I thought the edge-to-edge glass would be broken... [nope][2], the casing absorbed the impact. That's a tiny dent, especially considering the forces involved. [Another picture][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A common argument against Apple machines is that they're 'too expensive' - actually, [they're cheaper to own over their lifetime](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/415/1) when you take into account resale value (which Apple laptops hold, and no other laptops do).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jT6Cu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4I6Gg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="e54aa0d6-f110-4306-9d18-902fe22a0445" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:42:25.120" UserId="912" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Photos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3873" RevisionGUID="dfa902fd-7858-43bc-892c-68168ca807a4" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:53:40.467" UserId="912" Text="If you just want to do some light work such as web browsing, video watching and document editing, then you can just get a Chromebook. They do all these tasks but run very fast since it is a very light OS. The only draw back if that you can't run Windows programs on it (since its Chrome OS).The Acer Chromebook 15 is only around $350 and will run all those tasks fine. The screen is 1080p which is good enough for video watching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell Inspiron 15 7000 series is also a great choice if you want Windows. It is $750 with pretty good specs. The screen is also a 1080p display but is better quality (better colors). The screen is also a touch screen which is surprisingly useful and easy to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11981" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3874" RevisionGUID="1f5291a5-c8e6-4a65-b819-345a4fd080b8" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:59:46.047" UserId="912" Text="Bitcoin mining will not be worth it (will not earn much, the earnings will not be enough to cover the electricity costs). The Nvidia Geforce 920M is a very weak card and the Iris Pro 6100 is very strong for a integrated GPU, so they should be around the same performance (one may outperform another slightly because of optimizations). Both are not great for video rendering but they will suffice. It doesn't really matter which one you get if they are same specs. The amount of RAM is also a big factor as you want at least 8GB. Both of these cards will not render anything over 1080p well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3874" RevisionGUID="32fdbe5c-b1f7-401a-9456-42c24657a4b2" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:09:35.797" UserId="912" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Bitcoin mining will not be worth it (will not earn much, the earnings will not be enough to cover the electricity costs). The Nvidia Geforce 920M is a very weak card and the Iris 6100 is pretty strong for a integrated GPU, so they should be around the same performance (one may outperform another slightly because of optimizations). Both are not great for video rendering but they will suffice. It doesn't really matter which one you get if they are same specs. The amount of RAM is also a big factor as you want at least 8GB. Both of these cards will not render anything over 1080p well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3875" RevisionGUID="5fa1303f-6427-4ea3-bf87-4ad3875b3053" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:59:13.767" UserId="3663" Text="I have a 6.5 year old Dell Inspiron 1545. The battery has been dead for about 2 years and yesterday it started making whirring noises and the wifi stopped working. So now I have to plug it in for both power and ethernet. I suspect something deeper is wrong so think perhaps a new laptop may be in order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am in two minds about what type of laptop to get. I mainly use the laptop for browsing, ripping CDs and programming python. My programming is very much at the amateur level - Project Euler, coding of board games and a bit of web scraping. Recently I have been using Ubuntu because my laptop was getting so tired and cranky with Windows. I have a hankering after something that is capable of playing Football Manager 16 at a decent speed with good graphics performance, but suspect that the extra money I'd have to fork out for that wouldn't be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect pretty much any laptop you can buy now would be capable of filling my basic needs and would probably have better specs than my current laptop? But I wonder whether people have recommendations for a particular budget laptop. It would be nice to have decent battery life for example. I have no need for masses of storage either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also like your thoughts on the additional I'd have to spend in order to get something capable of playing FM16 to a decent level and any particular laptop recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In summary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;£300&#xD;&#xA;Use for browsing, python, watching netflix, rippig music, decent battery, no gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;£500&#xD;&#xA;As with Laptop 1 but with ability to play FM16 at a decent speed (but no other gaming)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[FM16 requirements][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.footballmanager.com/manual/fm2016/introduction/system-requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3875" RevisionGUID="5fa1303f-6427-4ea3-bf87-4ad3875b3053" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:59:13.767" UserId="3663" Text="Recommendation for a laptop for browsing and python programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3875" RevisionGUID="5fa1303f-6427-4ea3-bf87-4ad3875b3053" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:59:13.767" UserId="3663" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3877" RevisionGUID="bf57c394-b429-4c2b-9501-cb6dd18c40f2" CreationDate="2016-06-09T08:46:44.560" UserId="3630" Text="I can speak for the bitcoin mining aspect only:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must be aware that it will not be profitable no matter what you do with the notebook. But I guess you want to do some bitcoin mining to understand the concept (which I generally endorse).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy the cheaper of both notebooks, then buy some USB ASIC Miner which are available for around $10 and give you performance of 330MH/s to 2.5 GH/s&#xD;&#xA;which is around 6 to 50 times faster than your i5 and takes a fraction of the power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still not profitable, but at least it is a plan.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="3877" RevisionGUID="c043e966-5811-4312-a185-1ba8bd9cca2d" CreationDate="2016-06-09T11:18:44.957" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="11997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="5bbdffb7-ce0a-4dd6-af90-41e2261fb732" CreationDate="2016-06-09T11:19:51.287" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however it appears that  in the following links  iris 6100 is slightly better than even `nvidia gt 920m`.  &#xD;&#xA; [iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xD;&#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- bitcoin mining score for GeForce 920M is 39.92 mHash/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- bitcoin mining score for Core i5 5257U is 54.21 mHash/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Single core performance for i5 5287U  outgoes even many intel i7 processors.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="11c528fd-5ecf-471e-98f6-4d23ce135176" CreationDate="2016-06-09T12:41:12.950" UserId="2601" Comment="Edited errors concerning RAM" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb  DDR4-2400 Avexir Core Series MPower &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [MSI Z97 PC Mate][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus Z97-P][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12001" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3877" RevisionGUID="0cebdb78-2ae8-4664-987b-b4f33009c774" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:10:19.207" UserId="3630" Comment="added 300 characters in body" Text="I can speak for the bitcoin mining aspect only:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must be aware that it will not be profitable no matter what you do with the notebook. But I guess you want to do some bitcoin mining to understand the concept (which I generally endorse).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buy the **cheaper** of both notebooks, then buy some USB ASIC Miner which are available for around $10 and give you performance of 330MH/s to 2.5 GH/s which is around 6 to 50 times faster than your i5 and takes a fraction of the power. Examples for these gadgets are USB BlockErupter (https://www.cryptocoinsnews.com/block-erupter-usb-beginners-guide/) which is the lowest end available. The high-end for a small USB stick is The Avalon Nano (https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1022764.0) with around 3.6GH/s and $55 price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still not profitable, but at least it is a plan.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12002" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="3877" RevisionGUID="eedb2ad4-66cd-45bb-9458-0cd591ff8496" CreationDate="2016-06-09T15:05:25.170" UserId="1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="dd395aac-1efd-41b5-99b9-ea1755db0ec9" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:18:49.990" UserId="2623" Text="For data that doesn't change often, or is important, I use DVDs. They come in various varieties, but the ones I am currently using are DVD-R 4.7GB (4.4GiB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These can be bought in spindles (e.g. on amazon spindles of 100 4.7GB can be bought for) in the form of spindles, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you one one with possibly more protection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs are much less susceptible to electrical damage as data is written as physical dents in the structure. However they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data), and the glue holding them together could break down and cause them to split if kept in poor conditions. However there is a format that may be available called [M-DISC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC), which is designed apparently to last for 1000 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="1e23a6de-e6d4-4aa8-a6ab-6d341d398610" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:34:31.797" UserId="2623" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="DVDs come in various varieties*, for example DVD-R 4.7GB (4.4GiB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ DVD][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These can be bought in spindles *(Spindles of 100 4.7GB can be bought for around $20 USD)*, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you one one with possibly more protection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs are much less susceptible to electrical damage (es as data is written as physical dents in the structure. However they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data), and the glue holding them together could break down and cause them to split if kept in poor conditions. However many DVDs do come with a liftime warranty - there is a format that may be available called [M-DISC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC), which is designed apparently to last for 1000 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Formatting shouldn't be as much of a problem (depending on format - see below*). HDDs and SSDs (and USB drives, SD cards, etc) require a partition table and formatting, and support for different formats for varies across systems (e.g. Windows only really supports NTFS and FAT (and exFAT), and possibly BTRFS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F9wCS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="751baf34-ae73-47b3-9d59-148145a453fd" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:48:13.613" UserId="2623" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="DVDs come in various varieties*, for example DVD-R 4.7GB (4.4GiB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ DVD][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These can be bought in spindles *(Spindles of 100 4.7GB can be bought for around $20 USD)*, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you want storage with possibly more protection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVD wallet][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs are much less susceptible to electrical damage, as data is written as physical dents in the structure. However they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data), and the glue holding them together could break down and cause them to split if kept in poor conditions. However many DVDs do come with a lifetime warranty - there is a format that may be available called [M-DISC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC), which is designed apparently to last for 1000 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Formatting shouldn't be as much of a problem (heavily depending on format - see below*). HDDs and SSDs (and USB drives, SD cards, etc) require a partition table and filesystem formatting, and support for different formats for varies across systems (e.g. Windows only really supports NTFS and FAT (and exFAT), and possibly BTRFS - it needs more drivers to access other filesystems).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DVD Formats** - They are a lot of optical disc standards, and you need to bear in mind which format you are getting if you want to maintain compatibility (DVD Multi with Read Write and CD functionality):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-R:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-R:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+R:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-RW:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+RW:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-RAM:** &#xD;&#xA;- **DVD DL Dual Layer**&#xD;&#xA;- **Blu-ray **(and to a lesser extent HD DVD)**:** Not as compatible and more expensive, but can store more data (25GB single layer, 50GB dual layer, . Data density is all higher due to using a smaller blue wavelength.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These standards vary because of [manufacturers implementing there own standards](http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Hardware_Software/DVDFormatsExplained.asp), or by the [use of different technologies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD#Laser_and_optics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F9wCS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="09c72c98-67b6-4ce6-b088-71d7f216bfc9" CreationDate="2016-06-10T01:52:08.667" UserId="2623" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="DVDs come in various varieties*, for example DVD-R 4.7GB (4.4GiB). Using these for important data (backed up very week/month) alongside atleast 2 separate Hard Disks (possibly with at least storage medium one off site in case of disaster) can be effective method of ensuring your data is safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ DVD][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs can be bought as 'spindles' *(which in packs of 100 4.7GB discs can be bought for around $20 USD)*, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you want storage with possibly more protection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVD wallet][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optical discs are much less susceptible to electrical damage, as data is written as physical dents in the structure (it is a form of non-volatile storage) - complex components needed to read the data are not attached to the disc, making them a bit less likely to fail and in most situations waterproof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data). Also if kept in poor conditions, the glue holding them together could break down and make them easy to split, or the layers containing the data could be damaged (by oxidation etc). However many DVDs do come with a lifetime warranty, and (more expensive) archive quality discs are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Formatting shouldn't be as much of a problem (heavily depending on format - see below*) as along as your DVD and ODD both can use the same standards they should work. HDDs and SSDs (and USB drives, SD cards, etc) require a partition table and filesystem formatting, and support for different formats for varies across systems (e.g. Windows only really supports NTFS and FAT (and exFAT), and possibly BTRFS - it needs more drivers to access other filesystems).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DVD Formats** - They are A LOT of optical disc standards, and you need to bear in mind which format you are getting if you want to maintain compatibility (A DVD Multi with Read Write, Blu-ray, CD functionality may be able to read all of these):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Supported by Panasonic, Toshiba, Apple Computer, Hitachi, NEC, Pioneer, Samsung and Sharp, also supported by the [DVD Forum](http://www.dvdforum.org/). Should be supported by most DVD-ROM equipment.:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc.&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;- Also ***DVD-RAM***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Supported by Philips, Sony, Hewlett-Packard, Dell, Ricoh, Yamaha and others. *In my experience*, some systems may not support them out of the box.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Developed by Sony, Samsung, Sharp, Thomson, Hitachi, Matsushita, Pioneer and Philips, Mistubishi and LG Electronics.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Blu-ray:** Not as compatible and more expensive per disc, but can store more data (25GB single layer, 50GB dual layer, other formats can support 100GB+. Data density is a lot higher due to using a smaller blue wavelength. BD-RE discs are read-writable. A similar format called HD DVD *was* available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **M-DISC:** A hardware variation of DVD or Blu-ray standards that *apparently* should allow data to be stored for up to 1000 years due to resistance to temperature, humidity, ultraviolet and full-spectrum light etc. However requires a higher powered laser to be recorded too. See also **Archival Disc** (a similar archive orientated format by Sony and Panasonic designed for the disc to last at least 50 years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of the above formats are also available with more than one layer *(e.g. DL (Dual Layer)*, which are similar but can record more data. However, they are only supported by capable equipment (e.g. DL need Dual Layer support).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These standards vary because of [manufacturers implementing there own standards](http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Hardware_Software/DVDFormatsExplained.asp), or by the [use of different technologies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD#Laser_and_optics). Other optical formats can be compared [here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_high_definition_optical_disc_formats)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F9wCS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="8df0297f-3bf4-496e-97a5-fcd2768e392d" CreationDate="2016-06-10T01:58:16.307" UserId="2623" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="DVDs come in various varieties*, for example DVD-R 4.7GB (4.4GiB). Using these for important data (backed up very week/month) alongside atleast 2 separate Hard Disks (possibly with at least storage medium one off site in case of disaster) can be effective method of ensuring your data is safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ DVD][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs can be bought as 'spindles' *(which in packs of 100 4.7GB discs can be bought for around $20 USD)*, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you want storage with possibly more protection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVD wallet][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optical discs are much less susceptible to electrical damage, as data is written as physical dents in the structure (it is a form of non-volatile storage) - complex components needed to read the data are not attached to the disc, reducing (integrated) points of failure and in some way making them waterproof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data). Also if kept in poor conditions, the glue holding them together could break down and make them easy to split, or the layers containing the data could be damaged (by oxidation etc). However many DVDs do come with a lifetime warranty, and (more expensive) archive quality discs are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Formatting shouldn't be as much of a problem (heavily depending on format - see below*) as along as your DVD and ODD both can use the same standards they should work. HDDs and SSDs (and USB drives, SD cards, etc) require a partition table and filesystem formatting, and support for different formats for varies across systems (e.g. Windows only really supports NTFS and FAT (and exFAT), and possibly BTRFS - it needs more drivers to access other filesystems).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DVD Formats** - They are A LOT of optical disc standards, and you need to bear in mind which format you are getting if you want to maintain compatibility (A DVD Multi with Read Write, Blu-ray, CD functionality may be able to read all of these):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Supported by Panasonic, Toshiba, Apple Computer, Hitachi, NEC, Pioneer, Samsung and Sharp, also supported by the [DVD Forum](http://www.dvdforum.org/). Should be supported by most DVD-ROM equipment.:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc.&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;- Also ***DVD-RAM***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Supported by Philips, Sony, Hewlett-Packard, Dell, Ricoh, Yamaha and others. *In my experience*, some systems may not support them out of the box.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Developed by Sony, Samsung, Sharp, Thomson, Hitachi, Matsushita, Pioneer and Philips, Mistubishi and LG Electronics.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Blu-ray:** Not as compatible and more expensive per disc, but can store more data (25GB single layer, 50GB dual layer, other formats can support 100GB+. Data density is a lot higher due to using a smaller blue wavelength. BD-RE discs are read-writable. A similar format called HD DVD *was* available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **M-DISC:** A hardware variation of DVD or Blu-ray standards that *apparently* should allow data to be stored for up to 1000 years due to resistance to temperature, humidity, ultraviolet and full-spectrum light etc. However requires a higher powered laser to be recorded too. See also **Archival Disc** (a similar archive orientated format by Sony and Panasonic designed for the disc to last at least 50 years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of the above formats are also available with more than one layer *(e.g. DL (Dual Layer)*, which are similar but can record more data. However, they are only supported by capable equipment (e.g. DL need Dual Layer support).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These standards vary because of [manufacturers implementing there own standards](http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Hardware_Software/DVDFormatsExplained.asp), or by the [use of different technologies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD#Laser_and_optics). Other optical formats can be compared [here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_high_definition_optical_disc_formats)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F9wCS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3880" RevisionGUID="1c626d28-89c0-4d0d-adf7-5e663fbeb1a4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T03:52:35.363" UserId="3669" Text="So i think [Ideapad 100 (15&quot;)][1] will do for your laptop need for a programming, multimedia, netflix and has a decent battery too. And that will cost you £300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The gaming laptop will be [Acer E5-573G][2] and you can play much higher games and with good speed and high 8gb RAM. And the price will be &lt;£400 to &lt;£500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/100-series/100-15-inch/#tab-tech_specs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gaminglaptopsjunky.com/acer-e5-573g-review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="4db72aaf-2ab0-4784-a683-706729fb5d93" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:24:19.913" UserId="3671" Text="I'm a programmer building my own Homeautomationsystem.&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for some sort of tablet which I can mount to a wall and use to display information as well control things. The software I planed to use is a debian system + opera in fullscreen mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I can not find any tablet which is (relatively) good looking, (relatively) fast and cheap.&#xD;&#xA;There are a lot of android tablet (starting at around 60€) which would suit, but I do not want to pay the overhead of Android, especially since all I need is a browser. Using a debian I could customize boot screens, tune for a really fast boot and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Some sort of Local Network (either LAN or WLAN, maybe using a USB adapter)&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size (8&quot; - 12&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Microphone and Speaker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Front Camera&#xD;&#xA; - NFC&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mobile networking (3G/4G)&#xD;&#xA; - Back Camera (since there is a wall anyway)&#xD;&#xA; - Large storage (8 - 16 GByte should be enough)&#xD;&#xA; - Fancy features (Fingerprint, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be as low as possible, because I need about 10 of these.&#xD;&#xA;I have no problem with soldering wires to USB connectors etc or do crazy software stunts to get it working if the tablet is cheap enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However is there a tablet which is known to be working with native Linux ?&#xD;&#xA;A industrial PC should be ok too but most of them are either really expensive, or lot awkward.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12015" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="4db72aaf-2ab0-4784-a683-706729fb5d93" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:24:19.913" UserId="3671" Text="Homeautomation Dashboard (Tablet / Wallmount)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="4db72aaf-2ab0-4784-a683-706729fb5d93" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:24:19.913" UserId="3671" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="6e33126d-fa72-4a54-aab0-629728ca53cf" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:47:13.517" UserId="2601" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb  DDR4-2400 Avexir Core Series MPower &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bonus points if the motherboard is black and yellow or black and white ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [MSI Z97 PC Mate][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus Z97-P][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3870" RevisionGUID="4c1bcf16-14a8-4099-afa3-98979fe52c54" CreationDate="2016-06-10T11:34:26.167" UserId="3657" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Photos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the most important features are:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - an SSD  &#xD;&#xA; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). &#xD;&#xA; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\Edit: Unfortunately, a used laptop is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12028" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="2c04a78a-9914-4eff-8408-2528f261fd8d" CreationDate="2016-06-10T14:52:59.600" UserId="487" Comment="improved formatting; added link to mentioned product (GTX 970)" Text="See the following articles from Phoronix:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [30-Way Graphics Card Comparison On Ubuntu Linux 14.04 LTS](http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=ubuntu_trusty_30way&amp;num=1)&#xD;&#xA; - [15-Way AMD/NVIDIA Graphics Card Comparison For 4K Linux Gaming](http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=1080p-b-value&amp;num=1)&#xD;&#xA; - [The Best, Most Efficient Graphics Cards For 1080p Linux Gamers](http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=amdnv-4k-15gpu&amp;num=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Counter-Strike: Global Offensive 1920 x 1080 - Phoronix Test Suite 5.2.0][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact there are a dozen more articles comparing video cards on [Phoronix][2], and you can use that to decide how much you want to spend for how much performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also visit [OpenBenchmarking.org][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion I recommend the [Geforce GTX 970][4] because it offers the best price for the performance levels.  The faster cards are $100+ more and in the best case you get 10 fps more.  You wanted the 970 anyway for the Oculus Rift.  Currently the 970 is about $320-$350 on newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/eRied.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=category&amp;item=Graphics%20Cards&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://openbenchmarking.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12029" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2184" RevisionGUID="2c04a78a-9914-4eff-8408-2528f261fd8d" CreationDate="2016-06-10T14:52:59.600" Comment="Proposed by 487 approved by 1921 edit id of 468" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3875" RevisionGUID="ae2791f2-d5e0-462d-b3bd-9b2f3d4d7a88" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:29:04.003" UserId="3663" Comment="added 114 characters in body" Text="I have a 6.5 year old Dell Inspiron 1545. The battery has been dead for about 2 years and yesterday it started making whirring noises and the wifi stopped working. So now I have to plug it in for both power and ethernet. I suspect something deeper is wrong so think perhaps a new laptop may be in order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am in two minds about what type of laptop to get. I mainly use the laptop for browsing, ripping CDs and programming python. My programming is very much at the amateur level - Project Euler, coding of board games and a bit of web scraping. Recently I have been using Ubuntu because my laptop was getting so tired and cranky with Windows. I have a hankering after something that is capable of playing Football Manager 16 at a decent speed with good graphics performance, but suspect that the extra money I'd have to fork out for that wouldn't be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect pretty much any laptop you can buy now would be capable of filling my basic needs and would probably have better specs than my current laptop? But I wonder whether people have recommendations for a particular budget laptop. It would be nice to have decent battery life for example. I have no need for masses of storage either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also like your thoughts on the additional I'd have to spend in order to get something capable of playing FM16 to a decent level and any particular laptop recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In summary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;£300&#xD;&#xA;Use for browsing, python, watching netflix, rippig music, decent battery, no gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;£500&#xD;&#xA;As with Laptop 1 but with ability to play FM16 at a decent speed (but no other gaming)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[FM16 requirements][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any thoughts on this?&#xD;&#xA;[HP 250 G4][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.footballmanager.com/manual/fm2016/introduction/system-requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.saveonlaptops.co.uk/T6P47EAABU-HP-250-G4_1886839.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3887" RevisionGUID="3c98dcef-27e0-4aa5-bafe-fe708565d80e" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:45:18.487" UserId="3680" Text="For about 10 years now, I've really enjoyed my 30&quot; Apple Cinema HD (2560x1600). It's showing it's age, and I'd like to replace it with something a more modern. What's the best replacement? Here are the features I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- large screen (&gt;=30&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;- matte screen or at least low-glare&#xD;&#xA;- mainly used for coding/writing&#xD;&#xA;- can be driven by a late-model Macbook Air&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12037" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3887" RevisionGUID="3c98dcef-27e0-4aa5-bafe-fe708565d80e" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:45:18.487" UserId="3680" Text="What's the best replacement for a circa 2004 Apple Cinema HD 30&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12038" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3887" RevisionGUID="3c98dcef-27e0-4aa5-bafe-fe708565d80e" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:45:18.487" UserId="3680" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3880" RevisionGUID="cb0d8204-5639-4297-b6b5-4ef4e9df6ca8" CreationDate="2016-06-11T01:40:00.313" UserId="3669" Comment="Complete edition for viewers convenience" Text="So the **Ideapad 15&quot;** tech specs will be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Celeron N2840 processor( 2.16GHz 1333MHz 1MB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10 Home 64&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display type&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; HD AntiGlare 1366x768&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4.0GB PC3L-10600 DDR3L SDRAM 1333 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard drive device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 500GB 5400 rpm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optical device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DVD Recordable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Network card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo BGN Wireless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth Version 4.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - One year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pointing device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ClickPad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 Cell Li-Cylindrical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - £229.99    - less than £300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And also for the gaming laptop I recommend to use **Acer E5-573G** because of it specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Best 3D performance under **$500** for a new laptop with the extra&#xD;&#xA;&gt; value of 1TB SSHD, 8GB RAM and 802.11ac wifi card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the breakdown for the specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I5-5200U (2.2GHZ-2.7GHZ, 15W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia Geforce GTX 940M 2GB DDR3, GM108 (Maxwell I), 384 shaders,&#xD;&#xA;   core@1072MHZ, DDR3@1176MHZ, 64-bit bus Revision A2&#xD;&#xA; - that covers the quality of playing FM16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard Chipset	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Broadwell-U PCH-LP (Premium), Acer ZORO_BH&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hynix 1x8GB DDR3@1600MHZ  2 banks of memory available, totally&#xD;&#xA; - good for all over speed and memory bandwidth test&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDD : Seagate ST1000LM014-1EJ164 SSHD, 5400RPM, 32MB cache&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Camera	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1280x720&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WiFi / Ethernet	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi: Atheros QCA9377 802.11ac Ethernet: RealTek Semiconductor&#xD;&#xA;   RTL8168/8111 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery	&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 37Wh&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for me these laptops are well for feeding his needs and wants. Also, this will last good for 3 years without upgrade; but so if you want more power then it will cost probably." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="934a034c-d126-4ca2-817c-e26f84d3b1c8" CreationDate="2016-06-11T01:58:08.040" UserId="3669" Text="So I am here to ask for your recommendations as is the title of this QA forum is recommendation itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really suspected that to really monitor our workers bandwidth consumption and access filters (i.e : website blocking) is to have a firewall equipment because the normal firewall from the computer itself (i.e: Windows firewall) is really not that helpful on our situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to switch into using a **Firewall Equipment** that will cost us money a lot or still use the **dedicated firewall that the OS is already given** in our PC or the **PC to Firewall conversion** will do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And how is PC to Firewall different from Firewall Equipment and Windows Firewall?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks, hope you'll help me :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12041" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="934a034c-d126-4ca2-817c-e26f84d3b1c8" CreationDate="2016-06-11T01:58:08.040" UserId="3669" Text="Is firewall equipment will really help to prevent or monitor the high consumption of internet bandwidth and the users access filters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12042" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="934a034c-d126-4ca2-817c-e26f84d3b1c8" CreationDate="2016-06-11T01:58:08.040" UserId="3669" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="6d0fc004-cd23-40ae-b1ce-6c362a939b87" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:35:31.833" UserId="155" Comment="grammar overhaul; improved title" Text="I think that to really monitor our workers' bandwidth consumption and access filters (e.g., website blocking) we need to have firewall equipment because the normal firewall on the computer itself (i.e., Windows firewall) is really not that helpful in our situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to use firewall equipment that will cost us a lot of money or still use the dedicated firewall that the OS provides? Or will the PC-to-firewall conversion will do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And how is PC-to-firewall different from firewall equipment and Windows firewall?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12044" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="6d0fc004-cd23-40ae-b1ce-6c362a939b87" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:35:31.833" UserId="155" Comment="grammar overhaul; improved title" Text="Firewall equipment to prevent/monitor bandwidth consumption and set user access filters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="6d0fc004-cd23-40ae-b1ce-6c362a939b87" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:35:31.833" UserId="155" Comment="grammar overhaul; improved title" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12046" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="529b8b66-cfeb-4e29-8854-0b49e6fe567c" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:37:09.597" UserId="3669" Comment="added 629 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I think that to really monitor our workers' bandwidth consumption and access filters (e.g., website blocking) we need to have firewall equipment because the normal firewall on the computer itself (i.e., Windows firewall) is really not that helpful in our situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to use firewall equipment that will cost us a lot of money or still use the dedicated firewall that the OS provides? Or will the PC-to-firewall conversion will do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And how is PC-to-firewall different from firewall equipment and Windows firewall?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - My budget will be $3000&#xD;&#xA; - and I need a firewall that has 4-port 10/100/1000 Mbps Gigabit&#xD;&#xA;   Ethernet switch,&#xD;&#xA; - Proven firewall, support for separate virtual networks, and strong&#xD;&#xA;   wireless security help protect the network and business assets&#xD;&#xA; - High-performance Gigabit Ethernet connections, internally and&#xD;&#xA;   externally, plus a built-in wireless-N access point, speeds file&#xD;&#xA;   transfers to improve productivity&#xD;&#xA; - Stateful packet inspection (SPI) firewall, firewall rules&#xD;&#xA; - Static URL blocking, keyword blocking, approved URL&#xD;&#xA; - Also monitor the bandwidth consumed by the user of workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="529b8b66-cfeb-4e29-8854-0b49e6fe567c" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:37:09.597" UserId="3669" Comment="added 629 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Firewall equipment to prevent/monitor bandwidth consumption and set user access filters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12048" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="3888" RevisionGUID="529b8b66-cfeb-4e29-8854-0b49e6fe567c" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:37:09.597" UserId="3669" Comment="added 629 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12051" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="3875" RevisionGUID="e51f6a82-948c-42fb-a633-84bc77703217" CreationDate="2016-06-11T06:44:40.270" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3890" RevisionGUID="af65d7d7-b306-45d7-8105-e5f804549a04" CreationDate="2016-06-11T09:10:55.890" UserId="3681" Text="I'm looking for a **DURABLE AND RELIABLE** hard drive for a NAS and I've come to these bad boys.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800002.pdf&#xA;&#xA;http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800022.pdf&#xA;&#xA;Advantages of the Pro over the regular:&#xA;&#xA;- 7200 RPM vs 5400 RPM;&#xA; &#xA;- RAFF technology for better vibration protection;&#xA; &#xA;- slightly better failure rate;&#xA; &#xA;- 128 MB cache vs 64 MB.&#xA;&#xA;Advantages of the regular over the Pro:&#xA;&#xA; - larger temperature operating range: 0-65°C vs 5-60°C (seriously?!);&#xA; &#xA; - since it doesn't have RAFF technology and spins at a lower speed it produces less heat. &#xA;&#xA;And this is what drives me nut, on the long run, keeping it on 24/7, will the less heat generated by the Red make it more durable and reliable compared to the Red Pro? I will operate it in a 2 drives rack, so vibrations and performance is not a problem, I can sacrifice all for durability and reliability. Price is not a problem too. I fear heat though... Whoever has experience in this field is welcome, for your knowledge, which one will last longer without failing?&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3890" RevisionGUID="af65d7d7-b306-45d7-8105-e5f804549a04" CreationDate="2016-06-11T09:10:55.890" UserId="3681" Text="WD Red vs Red Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3890" RevisionGUID="af65d7d7-b306-45d7-8105-e5f804549a04" CreationDate="2016-06-11T09:10:55.890" UserId="3681" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12055" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3890" RevisionGUID="7202f7f4-8b46-4ba2-9d26-337fcc134d75" CreationDate="2016-06-11T09:36:33.863" UserId="3681" Comment="edited title" Text="WD Red vs Red Pro NAS Hard Drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3890" RevisionGUID="2cf157e0-a724-4a49-be52-2d9e729b6b45" CreationDate="2016-06-11T10:59:02.367" UserId="3681" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a **DURABLE AND RELIABLE** hard drive for a NAS and I've come to these bad boys.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800002.pdf&#xA;&#xA;http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800022.pdf&#xA;&#xA;Advantages of the Pro over the regular:&#xA;&#xA;- 7200 RPM vs 5400 RPM;&#xA; &#xA;- RAFF technology for better vibration protection;&#xA; &#xA;- slightly better failure rate;&#xA; &#xA;- 128 MB cache vs 64 MB.&#xA;&#xA;Advantages of the regular over the Pro:&#xA;&#xA; - larger temperature operating range: 0-65°C vs 5-60°C (seriously?!);&#xA; &#xA; - **since it doesn't have RAFF technology and spins at a lower speed it produces less heat.** &#xA;&#xA;And this is what drives me nut, on the long run, keeping it on 24/7, will the less heat generated by the Red make it more durable and reliable compared to the Red Pro? I will operate it in a 2 drives rack, so vibrations and performance is not a problem, I can sacrifice all for durability and reliability. Price is not a problem too. I fear heat though... Whoever has experience in this field is welcome, for your knowledge, which one will last longer without failing?&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3887" RevisionGUID="8ec9038f-6681-41c0-bcf8-3b20dd810eab" CreationDate="2016-06-11T13:50:33.290" UserId="3680" Comment="Added budget." Text="For about 10 years now, I've really enjoyed my 30&quot; Apple Cinema HD (2560x1600). It's showing its age, and I'd like to replace it with something a more modern. What's the best replacement? Here are the features I'd like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- large screen (&gt;=30&quot;);&#xD;&#xA;- matte screen or at least low-glare;&#xD;&#xA;- mainly used for coding/writing; fast response needed, e.g., for games, isn't important;&#xD;&#xA;- can be driven by a late-model Macbook Air.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm indifferent to the specific panel technology. Budget: up to $1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3892" RevisionGUID="1ca849c8-75c5-4db5-8089-fae1da6df33f" CreationDate="2016-06-11T14:20:31.667" UserId="3684" Text="I'm almost ready to buy a Dell XPS 15 laptop for my job as a software engineer.&#xD;&#xA;I work mostly with IntelliJ, Android Studio and Visual Studio. Database services and some other tools. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not 3D rendering and do not play games. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my main question, should i get an i5 CPU or i7? Do i really need the hyperthreading for such applications?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 2 choices are: i7-6700HQ vs i5-6300HQ. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12060" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3892" RevisionGUID="1ca849c8-75c5-4db5-8089-fae1da6df33f" CreationDate="2016-06-11T14:20:31.667" UserId="3684" Text="i5 or i7 for software development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3892" RevisionGUID="1ca849c8-75c5-4db5-8089-fae1da6df33f" CreationDate="2016-06-11T14:20:31.667" UserId="3684" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3893" RevisionGUID="6a3eb1e9-2aa2-4224-ac6f-0d3e203e6568" CreationDate="2016-06-11T16:46:22.940" UserId="543" Text="Benchmark comparison: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/993/Intel_Core_i5_Mobile_i5-6300HQ_vs_Intel_Core_i7_Mobile_i7-6700HQ.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5 6300HQ is a good CPU for the programs you use. However, it is definitely fair to say that with the more threads offered by the i7 6700HQ, performance, especially with programs that can utilise multiple threads, will be improved. The advantages to hyper threading are explained well here (Visual Studio is mentioned): https://superuser.com/questions/774028/advantages-of-hyper-threading-in-software-development&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarise the link above,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hyper threading is useful if you are using your machine for software development (as in your case) because current IDEs are optimised to take advantage of the multiple threads. This speeds up development. Visual Studio is a program that does this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, when it comes to executing the program that you are actually coding, hyper threading does not really help unless you are developing an application that takes advantage of multiple threads." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3895" RevisionGUID="ce79d249-5c88-44b0-a6d3-111a0aab759f" CreationDate="2016-06-12T00:52:15.040" UserId="912" Text="If you want something cheaper, with great color reproduction and a beautiful design, take a look at the [ASUS MX279H](https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Monitors/MX279H/). It retails for around $350 in the US. I own the smaller 23&quot; version, the MX239H and it is a beautiful panel. The color is great with a relatively low response time of 5ms. It is one of the best matte screen coatings I have seen. The only problem with it is that the stand cannot be adjusted in height and it doesn't have a standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want a professional grade monitor, look no further than the [ASUS ProArt PA279Q](https://www.asus.com/Monitors/PA279Q/). It is calibrated for the perfect color reproduction in factory to be 99% Adobe RGB and 100% SRGB compliant. It also is higher resolution than the MX279H (which is 1080p) at 1440p. The ProArt costs almost $1000." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3898" RevisionGUID="dd0e47ee-0241-463d-b147-306996bd0cee" CreationDate="2016-06-12T03:14:43.163" UserId="3669" Text="If you are using this drive for larger network it would be better for you to use the **WD Red Pro** because it suffice the needs of a larger group unlike the **WD Red** it is only design for smaller networks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But **WD Red** is a reflection of the most extensive NAS partner compatibility- testing list that is available on the market.* That means when you buy a NAS enclosure, you can trust that WD Red will be the most compatible drive available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other hand, NAS for Big Business. Increase the efficiency and productivity of your business with WD Red Pro hard drives for your 8 to 16 bay NAS system. WD Red Pro comes equipped with NASware 3.0, which increases system compatibility allowing for seamless integration with your existing network infrastructure. Add value to your business by enabling your employees to quickly share their files and back up folders reliably with WD Red Pro NAS hard drives in your NAS solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 to 16 Bay Shock Protection. WD Red Pro is equipped with a multi- axis shock sensor that automatically detects subtle shock events and dynamic fly height technology which adjusts each read-write function to compensate and protect the data. This combination of technology further protects the drives in large 8 to 16 bay NAS environments and increases drive reliability." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3899" RevisionGUID="7f65fec3-f01a-4ba0-856c-5a0b39aff208" CreationDate="2016-06-12T03:44:53.577" UserId="203" Text="Now that that the [Moto Z](http://www.techradar.com/au/reviews/phones/mobile-phones/moto-z-1323027/review) and [Z Force](http://www.techradar.com/au/reviews/phones/mobile-phones/moto-z-force-1323028/review) have been reviewed, I can say I heartily recommend them. &#xA;&#xA;On the inside, the have the exact same chipset as most of the other 2016 flagships, the Snapdragon 820. Thanks to its 4 core only CPU, it does not suffer the same overheating issues as the Snapdragon 810.&#xA;&#xA;Meanwhile, as usual, the Motorola flagships are very close to stock Android, which reduces the lag issues associated with OEM skins like touchwiz.&#xA;&#xA;Another nice feature of the Moto Z is the modularity. You can add on a projector case, battery or speaker, and there could be more accessories afterwards. &#xA;&#xA;There are three main issues with the Moto Z: &#xA;&#xA;* It does not have a standard 3.5 mm headphone jack, which means audio has to go through the USB C port, and you won't be able to use your old headphones, if you have any.&#xA;&#xA;* It has a relative small battery (2600 mAh and 3500 mAh) though how much that affects the battery life is uncertain. &#xA;* It will be Verizon exclusive between July and September. This means a long wait for the phone if you're on another carrier or don't live in the US. &#xA;&#xA;If any of those reasons is a deal-breaker, the HTC 10 is a good option. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3900" RevisionGUID="8389b963-4032-407c-a4c6-3fc1fecb1cb7" CreationDate="2016-06-12T07:43:10.390" UserId="3690" Text="I'am looking for very basic vibration sensors which I could use in a virtual reality environment. I have an HTC Vive and the idea would be to put some basic sensors (preferably wireless) all over the body and to make them vibrate on a specific part of the body when I get touched in the virtual env.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need beautiful or sophisticated sensors but basic one which are wireless and can be controlled from a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm in computer science field but have never worked in electronics field, does anyone knows such products?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12079" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3900" RevisionGUID="8389b963-4032-407c-a4c6-3fc1fecb1cb7" CreationDate="2016-06-12T07:43:10.390" UserId="3690" Text="Vibration sensors for Virtual Reality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3900" RevisionGUID="8389b963-4032-407c-a4c6-3fc1fecb1cb7" CreationDate="2016-06-12T07:43:10.390" UserId="3690" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3901" RevisionGUID="607ec304-a8cc-4348-b469-018e9938a105" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:49:14.763" UserId="3693" Text="I'm EMF concerned but still need wireless headphones to watch films on my projector without bothering neighbors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They need to be powerful, robust, highly user friendly and not give EMF-related headache/cancer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3901" RevisionGUID="607ec304-a8cc-4348-b469-018e9938a105" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:49:14.763" UserId="3693" Text="Wireless headphones (radio or bluetooth) for watching films that don't give headaches" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12083" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3901" RevisionGUID="607ec304-a8cc-4348-b469-018e9938a105" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:49:14.763" UserId="3693" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="7efe9592-9bff-44e2-8fe5-8e6e60342307" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:52:43.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12085" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3902" RevisionGUID="b0a49939-cc92-4bfb-8bd6-85e58d9daf8e" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:53:25.883" UserId="3692" Text="I´m currently facing a situation where i want to Display&#xD;&#xA;4 Windows Screens on a single 80&quot; 4k Display for demonstration purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal solution would be a single graphics card that allows to attach a 4k Display (using Displayport or HDMI 2.0) and emulate 4 FullHD (1080p) Displays to Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is an AMD/ATI-based solution available, that would be even better (as the application that should be demonstrated is optimized towards AMDs drivers)&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12086" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3902" RevisionGUID="b0a49939-cc92-4bfb-8bd6-85e58d9daf8e" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:53:25.883" UserId="3692" Text="Graphics Card that allows to emulate 4 FullHD Windows Screens on a single 4k Display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12087" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3902" RevisionGUID="b0a49939-cc92-4bfb-8bd6-85e58d9daf8e" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:53:25.883" UserId="3692" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="c3012add-fcf3-4dcf-a482-d52b0f9ca489" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:08:22.587" UserId="3699" Text="I am looking for a tablet that can run a standard mainline blob-free Linux kernel, and has open firmwares/drivers for the at least the DMA-capable built-in peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bootloader must be open-source, permit Boot from Flash, SD-Card, and USB, ideally also PXE (over USB-ETH). and (re-)lockable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know, this imposes some restrictions like no phablets, and no Intel/AMD gear.&#xD;&#xA;ARM TrustZone user-configurable would be great. AFAICT, when it comes to WIFI, my only choice is Atheros (Are they really blob-free, open-firmware?), or USB-WIFI.&#xD;&#xA;I'd rather have no built-in radio interface than closed firmware/drivers for one of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wont play games on this, but I still want graphics card/driver combo available, that can display a decent full-screen full-hd browsing session with a dozen tabs of SE, and the odd YT-vid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization-capable 64Bit CPU would be great, but I can live with &quot;only&quot; connecting to my remote Hypervisors from this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't have to be ultra-slim, or powerful with 8+ Cores. USB PortS though I require, at least 2. One hast to be OTG-capable. And some way to output HDMI1.4+ while still capable of OTG, and charging. Memory ideally 2GB+.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution could be an Android tablet, modified to run without &quot;problematic&quot; hardware/software, augmented with a better U-Boot, reflashed to run a mainline Linux kernel with some standard distro. But then which one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Market Availability 20016Q3+ at global Internet retailers. Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12096" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="c3012add-fcf3-4dcf-a482-d52b0f9ca489" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:08:22.587" UserId="3699" Text="ARM Tablet 9&quot;-13&quot; totally free/open-source from bootloader up capable of running standard Debian Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12097" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="c3012add-fcf3-4dcf-a482-d52b0f9ca489" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:08:22.587" UserId="3699" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3906" RevisionGUID="0a01b2d2-8ca3-49d9-a2b1-47d48b770e3d" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:09:01.400" UserId="3701" Text="I hope this is the right spot to post. Im looking for a mouse like the logitech g302 in size and weight but with more macro keys. Do you have any ideas. I really like the g302 but it does not have enough macro keys. I use palm grip mainly. Im having trouble finding mice similar but for small hands. Ill be using it for a laptop and desktop so it would be great if it could be wired and wireless, but i know im getting into high price range asking for that so its cool if it doesnt. Please move this to the appropriate spot if this isnt. Thank you for the help!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12099" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3906" RevisionGUID="0a01b2d2-8ca3-49d9-a2b1-47d48b770e3d" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:09:01.400" UserId="3701" Text="Mouse with macros" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12100" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3906" RevisionGUID="0a01b2d2-8ca3-49d9-a2b1-47d48b770e3d" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:09:01.400" UserId="3701" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12101" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3907" RevisionGUID="cbc97ede-3796-4417-8a58-754da15adcc8" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:16:32.127" UserId="1921" Text="**I am addressing only this part of the question:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And how is PC-to-firewall different from firewall equipment and Windows firewall?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A hardware firewall offloads the work from the general purpose CPU that windows uses to a CPU that is specifically designed for processing large volumes of network traffic fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows firewall can block individual websites based on IP, but does not do SPI.  Also with as much as people encrypt these days SPI can not inspect much of the traffic without SSL terminator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you buy software for each PC many of the functions of a hardware solution can be emulated locally, but then each PC has to have faster hardware to accommodate the addition work load.  Also nasty root kits maybe able to hide from PC only solutions.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Think about it this way, a hardware solution is like going to a gourmet cake shop and buying a cake.  Only the best ingredients were purchased and a master cake chief, or whatever they are called, monitored the whole process.  They used all the correct tools, baked and baked it to perfection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  The point is you get to enjoy the cake with no effort on your part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software solution is like making the cake yourself.  You go to your local store buy all the ingredients took them home.  Now you will use whatever tools you have on hand to mix them together and bake.  You most likely use inferior ingredients and poor tools and the end result maybe just ok.  Then you still have to do the dishes, and throw away the rubbish. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  When you are buying a hardware firewall, the vendor has (in an ideal world) hired a security experts to test the firewall and verify it has no known vulnerabilities.  Most of them update themselves and require very little hands on once they are properly configured.  The vendor assembled all the pieces for you and gave it to you in a convenient package.  The will also for a fee have people on staff to help you configure it or configure it for you depending on the contract you sign and the fee you pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a software solution each part of it is like an ingredient that goes into a cake.  Each piece has to be individual managed, configured, and updated.  **Just like our cake one bad ingredient spoils the whole thing**.  The foundation is the OS which has to be kept current.  Then you have your basic firewall which again has to be configured and maintained.  Then the SPI package, antivirus, anti-malware, and etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Each packages has rules that need updating and the software itself has to be kept up to date.  However, instead of being sad you made a bad cake, you company is the news for the next major data breach, and now you have to spend 10's of thousand cleaning up the mess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I am not saying rolling your own solution is impossible or undesirable I am only saying you need to be prepared to do all the work yourself and initially it will definitely cost more money especially in hours of labor. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12103" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3900" RevisionGUID="a7342406-31bc-4520-8c33-2918c300d235" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:48:15.007" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="d270217d-649e-4f3b-a88c-e44aa4216562" CreationDate="2016-06-12T19:54:12.440" UserId="54" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I am looking for a tablet that can run a standard mainline blob-free Linux kernel, and has open firmwares/drivers for the at least the DMA-capable built-in peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bootloader must be open-source, permit Boot from Flash, SD-Card, and USB, ideally also PXE (over USB-ETH). and (re-)lockable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know, this imposes some restrictions like no phablets, and no Intel/AMD gear.&#xD;&#xA;ARM TrustZone user-configurable would be great. AFAICT, when it comes to WIFI, my only choice is Atheros (Are they really blob-free, open-firmware?), or USB-WIFI.&#xD;&#xA;I'd rather have no built-in radio interface than closed firmware/drivers for one of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wont play games on this, but I still want graphics card/driver combo available, that can display a decent full-screen full-hd browsing session with a dozen tabs of SE, and the odd YT-vid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization-capable 64Bit CPU would be great, but I can live with &quot;only&quot; connecting to my remote Hypervisors from this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't have to be ultra-slim, or powerful with 8+ Cores. USB PortS though I require, at least 2. One hast to be OTG-capable. And some way to output HDMI1.4+ while still capable of OTG, and charging. Memory ideally 2GB+.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution could be an Android tablet, modified to run without &quot;problematic&quot; hardware/software, augmented with a better U-Boot, reflashed to run a mainline Linux kernel with some standard distro. But then which one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Market Availability 2016Q3+ at global Internet retailers. Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3909" RevisionGUID="c760c9c2-2edd-4bfc-9ac8-34cea05fc886" CreationDate="2016-06-12T20:54:05.657" UserId="2618" Text="While I haven't found any more actual products, there are a couple of Kickstarter campaigns I stumbled across:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [MouLus][1] - Started in January 2013 but failed to gain traction.&#xD;&#xA; - [gStick][2] - Started in August 2013, generated great interest and raised a staggering $130k. Quite incredibly this project is still ongoing but from the updates it seems it has been a very bumpy ride. I gather, whether the device will ever materialise is anyone's guess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/220159697/moulus-the-stylus-pen-with-tablet-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/529738175/gstick-the-mouse-you-hold-like-a-pen-for-pcs-and-m" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3912" RevisionGUID="e0c8ecdd-a936-475e-b576-81bda0650a97" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:42:06.403" UserId="531" Text="I've not tried these personally - and as with *any* headphones, its a good idea to try any headphones for fit (tight headphones cause headaches) and sound quality if possible, but it sounds like considering your fear of EMF, you might want to consider a IR based unit. IR's basically the same technology used in remote controls, is line of sight, and its technology that's been in common use since the 70s. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based off the models the [wirecutter][1] tried (and sadly, they didn't do a proper review on this, other than saying they weren't really into IR) and the reviews for the model on the [amazon link][2] the Sony MDR-IF245RK might be a model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most folks report that its comfortable, but you may need to check the cables you need. Since its IR, if you pick up a second unit, you can use the second headset with the same transmitter (which is handy for movies).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And while I'm personally skeptical of EMF 'sensitivity', I don't think anyone's ever complained of IR sensitivity yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wireless-home-theater-headphones/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR-IF245RK-Wireless-IF-Headphone/dp/B009A6CZ26?ie=UTF8&amp;ascsubtag=WC28928&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;tag=thewire06-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12126" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="034728b2-04db-4486-aa71-06247645bb17" CreationDate="2016-06-13T04:48:52.200" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/289275/is-there-a-tablet-soc-capable-of-running-a-blob-free-mainline-linux-kernel-with" />
  <row Id="12127" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="76a60e2b-957b-44d8-851c-e78906b18fad" CreationDate="2016-06-12T10:39:11.680" UserId="3699" Text="I am wondering, whether a platform with these specifications exists:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Hacking-friendly from open boot-loader up (support for re-locking?)&#xD;&#xA;* Linux mainline kernel (blob-free?) boot support with SMP.&#xD;&#xA;* Free/Open device-drivers/firmware for all (built-in) radios/chips.&#xD;&#xA;* Implementation in tablet form factor available in the market 2016Q3.&#xD;&#xA;* USB-OTG multi-device support device-side&#xD;&#xA;* Normal USB-Ports too. USB3 only possible with non-open firmware?&#xD;&#xA;* Better than simpleFB graphics support.&#xD;&#xA;* External graphics-out, available while Charging/OTG-ing&#xD;&#xA;* I would expect a platform with the above specs to run Android too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To the best of my knowledge, the above automatically excludes all phablets, because there are no (non-ancient) GSM/xG modems with open/updateable firmware. Though I would very much like to be proven wrong on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, unfortunately, this also seems to exclude all Intel/AMD Gear from the last plenty of years, because they all run a bunch of closed-source operating systems on the various mainboard chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been following this topic loosely over some time now, and have not found something like the above. Whenever I read about full support for a SOC, it seems to be about a platform not really available commercially anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AFAICT some chipsets come close, but then fall short in important ways. Like the Debian support for Allwinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The things I would like to do on/with this device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Run a standard Linux distro on it (pref. Debian)&#xD;&#xA;* Run my personal WM, tmux-, emacs-, browser-state-sessions&#xD;&#xA;* Configure to auto-connect to some BT-HIDs, WIFIs, MiraCast sinks, etc.&#xD;&#xA;* Connect USB devices like SDR, 3/4G, TTY, ETH, WIFI/BT, HID, V4L, etc.&#xD;&#xA;* &quot;full-stack&quot; hardware/software firmware/OS/userspace development/tests.&#xD;&#xA;* Use as (basically) a &quot;PDA&quot; on steroids, instead of a laptop&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally transmit the (second, big) screen (= the desktop) over HDMI, or USB-ETH-RDP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To me, this use-case -though not quite mainstream yet- does not seem that far-fetched, so I'm wondering, which keyword/project/chipset/etc has been escaping my google-fu so far." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12128" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="76a60e2b-957b-44d8-851c-e78906b18fad" CreationDate="2016-06-12T10:39:11.680" UserId="3699" Text="Is there a tablet SOC capable of running a blob-free mainline Linux kernel with open wifi, and useable graphics support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12129" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="76a60e2b-957b-44d8-851c-e78906b18fad" CreationDate="2016-06-12T10:39:11.680" UserId="3699" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12130" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="1d388b52-d0f5-4170-81ce-9f6b23743ae8" CreationDate="2016-06-13T06:56:03.603" UserId="3707" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12131" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="1d388b52-d0f5-4170-81ce-9f6b23743ae8" CreationDate="2016-06-13T06:56:03.603" Comment="Proposed by 3707 approved by 3699 edit id of 469" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3916" RevisionGUID="bb0e2e66-160f-4308-89c8-a4444d96b983" CreationDate="2016-06-13T07:23:41.133" UserId="3708" Text="I recently bought a [Moto X (second gen)][1] Android smartphone. It came with 16 GB inbuilt storage, but no SD card slot. I still have a lot of storage left, but I can imagine myself running out in the future. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that Android devices can use micro USB drives as storage. I plan to use a USB drive for long-term storage, if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked on the internet for suitable USB drives, however most of the devices I have found are designed for short term use (i.e. file transfer). None of these are useful since they all protrue *out* of the smartphone where they can be easily damaged in everyday usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must interface via a micro-USB port&#xD;&#xA; - Must not protrude out from the device any more than 5(ish) millimeters (i.e. must be suitable for leaving in the device over the long term)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be at least 8 GB in size (but at least 16 is preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be compatible with Android Lollipop (this should be any USB device anyway)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A USB device similar to what I am looking for, is the [SanDisk Cruzer Fit][2], but it only plugs into standard USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/QOmhl.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.motorola.com/us/motomaker?pid=FLEXR2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sandisk.com/home/usb-flash/cruzer-fit&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QOmhl.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12133" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3916" RevisionGUID="bb0e2e66-160f-4308-89c8-a4444d96b983" CreationDate="2016-06-13T07:23:41.133" UserId="3708" Text="Micro USB Drive for use with Android smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12134" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3916" RevisionGUID="bb0e2e66-160f-4308-89c8-a4444d96b983" CreationDate="2016-06-13T07:23:41.133" UserId="3708" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3902" RevisionGUID="28ddf302-0a46-42e5-9ae8-dfaa4106bb09" CreationDate="2016-06-13T07:44:01.857" UserId="3692" Comment="updated use case (4 windows monitors)" Text="I´m currently facing a situation where i want to Display&#xD;&#xA;4 Windows Screens on a single 80&quot; 4k Display for demonstration purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal solution would be a single graphics card that allows to attach a 4k Display (using Displayport or HDMI 2.0) and emulate 4 FullHD (1080p) Displays to Windows?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, the application is spread accross 4 Windows Monitors(each is 1080p). For Demos i want to display the 4 FullHD Windows Monitors on a single 4k Multitouch 80&quot; Screen stitched together. &#xD;&#xA;I know that there are boxes out there that have 4 Inputs and deliver a single 4k output. I just wonder if there is a GraphicsCard (with drivers) only solution for such a setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is an AMD/ATI-based solution available, that would be even better (as the application that should be demonstrated is optimized towards AMDs drivers)&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12138" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="a6678306-abe6-477e-8e3d-edf9f8b54d7d" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:11:08.473" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[3915],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12139" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="8ce482c1-d477-4956-8f68-b95b37b17d28" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:11:17.777" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/3915/is-there-a-tablet-soc-capable-of-running-a-blob-free-mainline-linux-kernel-with" />
  <row Id="12140" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="3915" RevisionGUID="8ce482c1-d477-4956-8f68-b95b37b17d28" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:11:17.777" UserId="8" Comment="from http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/3905/arm-tablet-9-13-totally-free-open-source-from-bootloader-up-capable-of-running" />
  <row Id="12141" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="3905" RevisionGUID="0a0eb56f-f7d3-40bb-a8de-ba8d9cf58c65" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:11:17.777" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3917" RevisionGUID="cf7bd36a-9370-4a64-a74b-f6ccee17de65" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:03:31.157" UserId="15" Text="I'm looking for small fanless mini PC to install Linux and use it on my desk with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Linux compatible,&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i5/i7 or Xeon family,&#xD;&#xA;- should be silent (no any fans),&#xD;&#xA;- budget up to £1000/1500USD,&#xD;&#xA;- available to order in EU,&#xD;&#xA;- standard features such as USB, networking, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The more compute power it has (performance), the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12143" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3917" RevisionGUID="cf7bd36a-9370-4a64-a74b-f6ccee17de65" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:03:31.157" UserId="15" Text="Fanless mini PC for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12144" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3917" RevisionGUID="cf7bd36a-9370-4a64-a74b-f6ccee17de65" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:03:31.157" UserId="15" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12145" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3917" RevisionGUID="9fa85e10-3a8d-423b-8665-cf9fc22c3260" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:08:37.967" UserId="15" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for small fanless mini PC to install Linux and use it on my desk with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Linux compatible,&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i5/i7 or Xeon family (not Atom),&#xD;&#xA;- should be silent (no any fans),&#xD;&#xA;- budget up to £1000/1500USD,&#xD;&#xA;- available to order in EU,&#xD;&#xA;- standard features such as USB, networking, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The more compute power it has (performance), the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3918" RevisionGUID="0c71c18f-a603-4d7a-8cf4-8e53589f6b79" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:16:32.177" UserId="15" Text="There is a **IPC2** (Intense PC) mini PC (and similar) which comes with 4th/5th generation of Intel® Core™ i7 Processors and it is compatible with with Linux and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please check the product [page at fit-pc.com about IPC2][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also [**fit-PC4**][2] which is based on AMD G-Series APU (3 times the performance of the previous [fit-PC3][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's available in Amazon (UK) or can be ordered directly from the [CompuLab’s website][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more details, check also the [Wikipedia fit-PC page][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.fit-pc.com/web/products/ipc2/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.fit-pc.com/web/products/fit-pc4/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.fit-pc.com/web/products/fit-pc3/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.fit-pc.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fit-PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3919" RevisionGUID="335064de-b2dd-4393-908a-18b981ada406" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:20:05.837" UserDisplayName="user3710" Text="My new PC has the following parameters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU - Intel Core i5 6600k &#xD;&#xA; - DRAM - DDR4-2133 8Gb  &#xD;&#xA; - MB - Asrock z170 pro4s     &#xD;&#xA; - SSD Sandisk 128Gb SATA 6Gb/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I have Asus HD 7750 video card which is the weakest part. I need a video card better than this with price lower than $250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12148" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3919" RevisionGUID="335064de-b2dd-4393-908a-18b981ada406" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:20:05.837" UserDisplayName="user3710" Text="What is the best budget NVidia video card for i5 6600k?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12149" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3919" RevisionGUID="335064de-b2dd-4393-908a-18b981ada406" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:20:05.837" UserDisplayName="user3710" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12150" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3920" RevisionGUID="1385ff4a-5ae3-4998-b33c-240c1c394e60" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:25:57.513" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend the Nvidia Geforce GTX 960. It is around $250 and is one of the best budget cards. It has either 2GB or 4GB of VRAM, if you are just running 1 or 2 1080p monitors are do not do anything VRAM intensive (e.g. run song really VRAM demanding games, render videos in 4K, run virtual machines), then the 2GB is enough. If you do run more than 2 1080p monitors or 4K monitors, then the 4GB VRAM option is better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12151" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3919" RevisionGUID="dde37c09-5a86-40c3-ba8a-1a8007388df5" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:29:38.583" UserDisplayName="user3710" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="My new PC which was bought for gaming has the following parameters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU - Intel Core i5 6600k &#xD;&#xA; - DRAM - DDR4-2133 8Gb  &#xD;&#xA; - MB - Asrock z170 pro4s     &#xD;&#xA; - SSD Sandisk 128Gb SATA 6Gb/s&#xD;&#xA; - Single monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I have Asus HD 7750 video card which is the weakest part. I need a video card better than this with price lower than $250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12152" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3921" RevisionGUID="97af02af-6041-4bc4-ab7a-d33348ba0b09" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:36:57.390" UserId="3630" Text="Disclaimer: I am in no way involved with the company I am about to recommend, nor did I ever buy any of their systems. But I was considering to and have read good recensions about them in german IT magazines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.deltatronic.de/de/willkommen/nur-luefterlos&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.deltatronic.de/en/welcome/only-fanless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;no any fans&quot; should be covered as they do not use fans neither on CPU, nor PSU nor the chassis. The configurations offered should be within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also offer another link http://www.ichbinleise.de/ - a company I know nothing about, but they seem to offer the same products based on the same design principles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3922" RevisionGUID="64b321b3-780a-4c69-b082-ee638a9a40c4" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:27:39.280" UserId="3712" Text="I currently have an EVGA GTX 660 Superclocked card, but just noticed the [fancy offer to buy a GTX 950 and receive £70 in-game 'value'][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 660 can run most of the games I throw at it at highest settings (i.e. 1920x1080 and setting everything else to its highest), without really faltering. Games like Metro: Last Light can struggle sometimes, but considering the card is three years old, I don't mind too much...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I need some help working out whether paying for a new card is worth it at the minute. If I buy a new card, I plan to sell the old one to make back some money, so the price point of around £150 is my limit. I've been thinking about the [EVGA SSC 950][2], because I'm happy with EVGA (unless there is another card which is **really** worth changing to).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the 950 a worthy upgrade after running this one for three years? Are there any cards that would be better? (I'd prefer to stay with nVidia, but I'm open to suggestions). I mean, the card runs fine at the minute and probably will for a few more years to come, but perhaps it's good to keep up with the newer tech?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI, the games I currently play or plan to play in the near future are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - World of Tanks&#xD;&#xA; - War Thunder&#xD;&#xA; - SM's Civilisation 5&#xD;&#xA; - Metro: Last Light&#xD;&#xA; - GTA V (planned)&#xD;&#xA; - Rust (planned)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't imagine the 660 would be *too* happy with GTA V at near-highest settings though? I don't mind losing some quality for FPS, but visuals are quite important! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.geforce.co.uk/2016-free-to-play-bundle#utm_campaign=2016-free-to-play-bundle&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_source=gfe-billboards&amp;cid=2016-free-to-play-bundle&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga-geforce-gtx-950-superclocked-acx-2.0-2048mb-gddr5-pci-express-graphics-card-02g-p4-2956-kr-gx-291-ea.html#free_items" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3922" RevisionGUID="64b321b3-780a-4c69-b082-ee638a9a40c4" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:27:39.280" UserId="3712" Text="Upgrading from EVGA GTX 660 to EVGA GTX 950 - worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3922" RevisionGUID="64b321b3-780a-4c69-b082-ee638a9a40c4" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:27:39.280" UserId="3712" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3923" RevisionGUID="9f7c85e7-ff23-4fe9-a88f-b131b1c61ce3" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:48:50.980" UserId="3714" Text="I've got a Nexus 6p with a stretch fabric wallet attached to the back.  This is great for storing credit cards since I don't carry a regular wallet, but it does make it difficult to pick a phone case, because the wallet already increases the overall thickness and many case designs don't have a flat enough surface to stick something to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, there are wallet cases that protect the phone, but all the ones I have seen open like a book to access the screen, which isn't acceptable for my work flow.  A case that had a wallet in the back integrated into a dual layer shockproof plastic shell with nothing to obscure the screen would work.  Or a case that only protected the four corners would probably work too, since this is all that is really required to protect the phone from being dropped onto onto a flat hard surface.  Any kind of case that protected the phone without covering the back between the fingerprint sensor and the bottom strip would work too, as it would work with my existing wallet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12157" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3923" RevisionGUID="9f7c85e7-ff23-4fe9-a88f-b131b1c61ce3" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:48:50.980" UserId="3714" Text="Something to protect a Nexus 6p while allowing a wallet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12158" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3923" RevisionGUID="9f7c85e7-ff23-4fe9-a88f-b131b1c61ce3" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:48:50.980" UserId="3714" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12164" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3923" RevisionGUID="0caf2984-e9c0-4fb4-83e2-13bc2796202e" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:07:04.667" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3925" RevisionGUID="df423fb5-b466-4c15-a6a4-ecaf01325376" CreationDate="2016-06-14T12:29:47.217" UserId="3713" Text="Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured desktop replacement laptop.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have Sony Vaio VPCZ138GG (13 inch Full HD screen, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, GeForce GT 330M, DVD Drive, Win 7 Pro, 3hr battery) purchased in 2010.  &#xD;&#xA;I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features. IMO everything aged fairly well (except GFX, as you would expect).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over the past few years I have been keeping an eye out on a replacement option but have found nothing that ticks all the boxes and today I accidentally dropped my laptop and broke the screen so a replacement is needed.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display: Full HD or higher, that is useable in sunlight&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: &quot;powerful&quot; I5 / I7 (ideally not ULV)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB - 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: under 1.8kg (with battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings   &#xD;&#xA; - Ports: 3 x USB, mic, headphone, HDMI, Ethernet (RJ-45), (the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2 or more external monitors.&#xD;&#xA; - Build / Finish: looking for a high quality &quot;professional&quot; / &quot;business&quot; look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (in order of priority): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Built in mobile internet (keep in mind that it has to work in Australia)  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Replaceable battery &#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet.  &#xD;&#xA; 4. Availability of a Docking station   &#xD;&#xA; 5. Light weight Power Brick   &#xD;&#xA; 6. Long battery life&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built in optical drive  &#xD;&#xA; 8. Built in card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have investigated Clevo (with [Metabox][1] budge) and while specs are fantastic the weight and &quot;look&quot; are a bit underwhelming.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.metabox.com.au/store/b179/Metabox-Prime-P640RE-Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12169" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3925" RevisionGUID="df423fb5-b466-4c15-a6a4-ecaf01325376" CreationDate="2016-06-14T12:29:47.217" UserId="3713" Text="Laptop 13 - 14inch very mobile fully featured desktop replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12170" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3925" RevisionGUID="df423fb5-b466-4c15-a6a4-ecaf01325376" CreationDate="2016-06-14T12:29:47.217" UserId="3713" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12171" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3925" RevisionGUID="81fc7867-0fbb-494e-8175-5d503df4aff2" CreationDate="2016-06-14T12:39:08.443" UserId="3713" Comment="Added &quot;usage pattern&quot;" Text="Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured desktop replacement laptop.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have Sony Vaio VPCZ138GG (13 inch Full HD screen, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, GeForce GT 330M, DVD Drive, Win 7 Pro, 3hr battery) purchased in 2010.  &#xD;&#xA;I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features. IMO everything aged fairly well (except GFX, as you would expect).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over the past few years I have been keeping an eye out on a replacement option but have found nothing that ticks all the boxes and today I accidentally dropped my laptop and broke the screen so a replacement is needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage pattern:  &#xD;&#xA;The laptop goes where I go and is used for database and front end development during the day and occasional gaming session in the evening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display: Full HD or higher, that is useable in sunlight&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: &quot;powerful&quot; I5 / I7 (ideally not ULV)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB - 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: under 1.8kg (with battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings   &#xD;&#xA; - Ports: 3 x USB, mic, headphone, HDMI, Ethernet (RJ-45), (the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2 or more external monitors.&#xD;&#xA; - Build / Finish: looking for a high quality &quot;professional&quot; / &quot;business&quot; look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (in order of priority): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Built in mobile internet (keep in mind that it has to work in Australia)  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Replaceable battery &#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet.  &#xD;&#xA; 4. Availability of a Docking station   &#xD;&#xA; 5. Light weight Power Brick   &#xD;&#xA; 6. Long battery life&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built in optical drive  &#xD;&#xA; 8. Built in card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have investigated Clevo (with [Metabox][1] budge) and while specs are fantastic the weight and &quot;look&quot; are a bit underwhelming.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.metabox.com.au/store/b179/Metabox-Prime-P640RE-Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3926" RevisionGUID="dbb676f1-81d1-45a3-9131-6a6942466b71" CreationDate="2016-06-14T13:17:52.147" UserId="3716" Text="For my work I use a lot of data. When trying to work with this data this is generally speaking loaded into the RAM. &#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my current 64GB RAM desktop as it simply does not cut it anymore. This means I will have to upgrade to DDR4 or to a server set up in either DDR3 or 4.&#xD;&#xA;As such a switch is costly to begin with (as it involves switching out processors and the motherboard it seems like I might as well go big. Upgrading to 128 GB seems like a temporary fix.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of upgrading to a 512 GB DDR4-2133 set up. This would mean that I have to switch from a regular desktop setup to a server setup as no regular motherboard supports this kind of RAM (to my knowledge). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this would be the first server I ever build I was wondering if there are certain things I need to be aware of. What are main differences compared to building a desktop ? Can I do without for instance a GPU ? Are the cases for servers significantly different in fan set ups or way I can interface with them ? &#xD;&#xA;Does a motherboard supporting 2 CPU's and 16 RAM slots require me to fill both CPU's to be able to use the full RAM ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about using: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS, socket 2011-3                                          x1&#xD;&#xA;    Corsair ValueSelect 16 GB DDR4-2133                                       x16&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Xeon E5-1620 v3, 3,5 GHz (3,6 GHz Turbo Boost) socket 2011-3       x2&#xD;&#xA;    Samsung 950 Pro, 512 GB SSD                                               x1&#xD;&#xA;    Toshiba MD Series, 6 TB HDD (SATA 600, PX3013E-1HR0)                      x1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PSU probably 850 Watts                                                    x1&#xD;&#xA;    Watercooling CPU                                                          x2&#xD;&#xA;    Case fans                                                                 x?&#xD;&#xA;    Server case                                                               x1&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from the above mentioned questions:&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations as to replace parts by cheaper, but performance wise similar products ?&#xD;&#xA;Anything I am missing that I will definitely need ? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12173" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3926" RevisionGUID="dbb676f1-81d1-45a3-9131-6a6942466b71" CreationDate="2016-06-14T13:17:52.147" UserId="3716" Text="PC / server for running big data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12174" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3926" RevisionGUID="dbb676f1-81d1-45a3-9131-6a6942466b71" CreationDate="2016-06-14T13:17:52.147" UserId="3716" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12175" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3927" RevisionGUID="40dedd6f-8861-4f76-9230-7a2437a2b29f" CreationDate="2016-06-14T15:58:21.927" UserId="3717" Text=" - **The Macbook Pro**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 13 inch MBP fulfills most of your requirements in certain configurations, except for the ethernet port, which none of them have anymore, but can of course be realized with a Thunderbolt - Ethernet adapter. No need to talk about the business look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [**Microsoft Surface Book**][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fulfills almost all of your requirements. Except again, ethernet. Plus it is convertible. The Surface Books pretty much kick ass since this most recent generation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.325716000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12176" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3928" RevisionGUID="c06d845c-0336-4bc8-bd04-de8250ce8db7" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:02:41.840" UserId="3717" Text="I have the i5 6600K as well in my Gaming Rig. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went for a GTX 970, and paid 285 Euro in December 2015. However, I've seen this card last week for 212 Euro. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So right now, I definitely would wait, namely for the new [AMD 480][1]. Wait until some benchmarks have been made, and until the consensus says that it is a solid card. They announced it in the US for 200$, and what they claim seems seriously promising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/news/nvidia-gtx-1080-vs-1070-vs-amd-rx480-gpu-price-availability/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12177" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3927" RevisionGUID="161c393d-fce0-44ae-af16-632cb5b74829" CreationDate="2016-06-14T17:32:11.293" UserId="3717" Comment="Split answers, elaborated more." Text=" - **[The Macbook Pro][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 13 inch MBP fulfills most of your requirements in certain configurations, except for the ethernet port, which none of them have anymore, but can of course be realized with a Thunderbolt - Ethernet adapter. No need to talk about the business look. For simplicity, I'm going to list what it does NOT fulfill:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Dedicated GPU**: It only features the Iris 6100, which is still fine for not so heavy Games, like League of Legends or similar.&#xD;&#xA;- **Ethernet**: This is something Apple doesn't do anymore on their Macbooks. I also would like to see them back, but not going to happen, due to their strong emphasis on making the Macbooks as thing is possible. *Help/Fix*: Thunderbolt - Gigabit Ethernet Adapter. &#xD;&#xA;- **Built in mobile internet**: You would have to go for a USB LTE Stick.&#xD;&#xA;- **Built in optical drive**: You would have to go for an external Drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/au/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12178" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3927" RevisionGUID="44db2e15-ee22-4aca-a26b-8c16f69bbe56" CreationDate="2016-06-14T17:43:47.850" UserId="3717" Comment="Tethering added" Text=" - **[The Macbook Pro][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 13 inch MBP fulfills most of your requirements in certain configurations, except for the ethernet port, which none of them have anymore, but can of course be realized with a Thunderbolt - Ethernet adapter. No need to talk about the business look. For simplicity, I'm going to list what it does NOT fulfill:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Dedicated GPU**: It only features the Iris 6100, which is still fine for not so heavy Games, like League of Legends or similar.&#xD;&#xA;- **Ethernet**: This is something Apple doesn't do anymore on their Macbooks. I also would like to see them back, but not going to happen, due to their strong emphasis on making the Macbooks as thing is possible. *Help/Fix*: Thunderbolt - Gigabit Ethernet Adapter. &#xD;&#xA;- **Built in mobile internet**: You would have to go for a USB LTE Stick. Or way better: Use your Phone for Tethering!&#xD;&#xA;- **Built in optical drive**: You would have to go for an external Drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/au/shop/buy-mac/macbook-pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3929" RevisionGUID="00a5097f-af3c-4b2f-9757-088ea5e05b41" CreationDate="2016-06-14T19:18:49.477" UserId="2028" Text="*Under $250 GPU options as of 6/14/16*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you are willing to wait**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia - GTX 1060 - You mentioned this specifically, so I'm placing&#xD;&#xA;   it ahead of the 480X. This card is rumored to be priced between&#xD;&#xA;   $200-250 and is expected between late Summer and Fall of this year.&#xD;&#xA;   It should perform slightly over the 480X, though everything is&#xD;&#xA;   speculation at this point.&#xD;&#xA; - AMD - Radeon 480X - These will be released at the end of the month&#xD;&#xA;   with a $199 price point. The performance should place this card in&#xD;&#xA;   line with a GTX 970 / Radeon 390X. There are numerous benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;   available supposedly showing this card, but many of these are purely&#xD;&#xA;   synthetic such as 3DMark, so it is possible that they may perform&#xD;&#xA;   slightly better or worse in actual games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If you need to buy a card today**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your best option for performance per/$ right now will be used from&#xD;&#xA;   eBay - there you can pickup a GTX 970 for under $200 without much&#xD;&#xA;   hunting. I have had good luck with hardware on eBay. It may seem like&#xD;&#xA;   a gamble but, from experience, I can tell you that eBay will forcibly&#xD;&#xA;   refund your money from the seller in the event that they are&#xD;&#xA;   dishonest and try to pass off dead hardware (this has happened to me&#xD;&#xA;   once).&#xD;&#xA; - Alternatively, you can check out some of the larger hardware forums&#xD;&#xA;   and look at their Buy/Sell sections (examples: HardOCP forums,&#xD;&#xA;   Overclock.net, many others). These sites typically require the seller&#xD;&#xA;   to be a user with X posts/rep, meaning that the GPUs for sale are as&#xD;&#xA;   described and shipped/packaged safely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3930" RevisionGUID="f475c973-0ca0-4da8-92bd-a04ab68ddad7" CreationDate="2016-06-14T20:38:48.740" UserId="2028" Text="I would hold off on the GTX 950, it is going to give you almost identical performance to what you are getting now with the GTX 660. For GTA V on your 660, you should be able to get around 60fps with a mix of medium/high settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to stick with Nvidia, you may want to wait until later this year (late Summer or Fall) when the GTX 1060 is released. If you're willing try AMD, the Radeon 480x will be available in a few weeks and should have performance similar to a GTX 970." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3931" RevisionGUID="98412218-c5fa-48bd-a641-52ec589c9327" CreationDate="2016-06-14T21:32:12.640" UserId="2028" Text="As Cfinley noted, there is no benefit to matching GPU and motherboard manufacturer parts. Since you were looking at MSI and ASUS boards, I specifically looked at those two manufacturers. I think the ASUS Z97-E would meet everything you are looking for, remain under your budget (currently has a mail-in rebate as well), and be a bit more future-proof than the ASUS Z97-P you had found as it also includes USB 3.1. Also, the motherboard is black with white lettering and gold/yellow trim pieces.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Heres the direct link to it on Newegg:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132512&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worth mentioning, there are boards with more features such as additional PCIe slots, more USB 3.0 ports, and better onboard audio available for a little more ($140+). If you want to go this route there are several decent options from MSI, Gigabyte, Asus, and ASRock available. However, since you mentioned you only plan on having GPU, you could get a PCIe sound card for *much* better audio whenever your budget allows for it in the future." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12182" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3925" RevisionGUID="185acd84-e81f-47bb-b489-7c526c845481" CreationDate="2016-06-15T00:54:21.810" UserId="3713" Comment="Added a requirement for windows" Text="Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured desktop replacement laptop.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have Sony Vaio VPCZ138GG (13 inch Full HD screen, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, GeForce GT 330M, DVD Drive, Win 7 Pro, 3hr battery) purchased in 2010.  &#xD;&#xA;I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features. IMO everything aged fairly well (except GFX, as you would expect).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over the past few years I have been keeping an eye out on a replacement option but have found nothing that ticks all the boxes and today I accidentally dropped my laptop and broke the screen so a replacement is needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage pattern:  &#xD;&#xA;The laptop goes where I go and is used for database and front end development during the day and occasional gaming session in the evening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display: Full HD or higher, that is useable in sunlight&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: &quot;powerful&quot; I5 / I7 (ideally not ULV)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB - 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: under 1.8kg (with battery)&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings   &#xD;&#xA; - Ports: 3 x USB, mic, headphone, HDMI, Ethernet (RJ-45), (the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2 or more external monitors.&#xD;&#xA; - Build / Finish: looking for a high quality &quot;professional&quot; / &quot;business&quot; look.&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to run Windows (7 Pro ideally)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (in order of priority): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Built in mobile internet (keep in mind that it has to work in Australia)  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Replaceable battery &#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet.  &#xD;&#xA; 4. Availability of a Docking station   &#xD;&#xA; 5. Light weight Power Brick   &#xD;&#xA; 6. Long battery life&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built in optical drive  &#xD;&#xA; 8. Built in card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have investigated Clevo (with [Metabox][1] budge) and while specs are fantastic the weight and &quot;look&quot; are a bit underwhelming.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.metabox.com.au/store/b179/Metabox-Prime-P640RE-Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12183" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3898" RevisionGUID="e3e3100f-4960-4695-bc01-36636778a066" CreationDate="2016-06-15T01:27:01.140" UserId="3669" Comment="edit answer for more reliability" Text="If you are using this drive for larger network it would be better for you to use the **WD Red Pro** because it suffice the needs of a larger group unlike the **WD Red** it is only design for smaller networks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But **WD Red** is a reflection of the most extensive NAS partner compatibility- testing list that is available on the market.* That means when you buy a NAS enclosure, you can trust that WD Red will be the most compatible drive available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other hand, NAS for Big Business. Increase the efficiency and productivity of your business with WD Red Pro hard drives for your 8 to 16 bay NAS system. WD Red Pro comes equipped with NASware 3.0, which increases system compatibility allowing for seamless integration with your existing network infrastructure. Add value to your business by enabling your employees to quickly share their files and back up folders reliably with WD Red Pro NAS hard drives in your NAS solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Okay, the **Red Pro will be much durable versus the Red**. Why? Because it has already its feature that it said that it has a slightly **better failure rate** and based on your statement there is the Red Pro has a vibration protection and it is also **Bay Shock Protection and a sensor that detects subtle shock**. As per **heat or power**, you just need a **good cooling system**. You just have to **keep in mind that maintaining proper air flow through your computer case** is the **better way to keep the heat at its lowest**, please be reminded that heat can build up inside to temperatures far hotter than the ambient temperature of your room. You are comfortable, PC may not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course heat is an issue that why I am saying that you are the one should maintain it, no matter how much heat your drive can produce. Provide it with good airflow outside and especially inside.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12189" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="04a2cf3c-991e-44f9-9247-ba025d0e1d5d" CreationDate="2016-06-15T06:15:43.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="48ee5173-1285-4e71-a1f0-dacac01278df" CreationDate="2016-06-15T07:46:41.920" UserId="2601" Comment="Changed my RAM, not affecting the answer that was given." Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb  DDR3-1866 HyperX Fury, Cas10 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bonus points if the motherboard is black and yellow or black and white ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [MSI Z97 PC Mate][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus Z97-P][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3932" RevisionGUID="eb70ff1b-8a27-4b5a-8e67-424f17bb2319" CreationDate="2016-06-15T09:32:01.607" UserId="3709" Text="I have set up a VM (web development server) on a USB drive, but consider moving it to a SD card. VM has currently around 25 GB; so with a 64 GB card I would probably be safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is pretty irrelevant, as long as I can justify it to the management.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;why?&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I don´t want the VM to be stored on the host´s hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the USB hard drive has two drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It is an extra object in my bag and on the table (which might be in a cafe, train, waiting room); an SD card would be much more handy.&#xD;&#xA;2. When the host (a convertible laptop) goes into standby, it cuts the power to the USB HD; when it wakes up, the VM won´t respond to anything but switching off or reboot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;consideration:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;The card will not only be for putting a few files on it and updating them every now and then, but for actually working on it, so ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;questions:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Should I chose a certain type of storage? (performance)&#xD;&#xA;2. Should I prefer a certain manufacturer? (reliability, durability)&#xD;&#xA;3. Is it really heavy use? I have no intel on or idea how often the VM actually pyhsically accesses the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;requirements:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;- Format should be classic SD, nothing I need an extra adapter for.&#xD;&#xA;- a usb stick might be worth consideration, but second choice. (the host device has only two USB ports, but at least they are USB 3.0)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12192" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3932" RevisionGUID="eb70ff1b-8a27-4b5a-8e67-424f17bb2319" CreationDate="2016-06-15T09:32:01.607" UserId="3709" Text="SD card for heavy use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12193" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3932" RevisionGUID="eb70ff1b-8a27-4b5a-8e67-424f17bb2319" CreationDate="2016-06-15T09:32:01.607" UserId="3709" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3934" RevisionGUID="8e518c6f-b7c5-4499-a844-a32393543f1f" CreationDate="2016-06-15T11:52:28.123" UserId="3723" Text="I'm considering updating my monitor setup to a quad display workstation sometime soon, but I'm having trouble finding a monitor that fits my list of requirements...prepare yourself (in no particular order):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22&quot;-24&quot; (not against bigger...)&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 (or wider)&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p (don't want 4K, it's just too expensive!)&#xD;&#xA; - Rotating stand (I want the screens to be able to be either portrait or landscape)&#xD;&#xA; - VGA, HDMI, DVI (though I guess I could skimp on one of them, most likely VGA)&#xD;&#xA; - thin black/no bezel (again, would be really great, but if it's not possible it's not possible...)&#xD;&#xA; - No speakers&#xD;&#xA; - Non gaming&#xD;&#xA; - Wide viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These monitors will be used solely as a productivity boost. No gaming at all, so I don't need any gaming related monitor features. They will be used for some graphics work, but nothing serious so maximum colour quality isn't as must, just something &quot;decent&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too bothered about them having mounting plate points, but I suppose it would be a nice bonus. If they did have them I would probably put together a DIY stand at some point, but for now I definitely want them to all stand and rotate independently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After all that, I'm not really sure where to cap the cost. The lower the cost the better. I'll judge how realistic this ideal setup is when I know how much it would cost me!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? I'm in the UK, so I'd prefer local options to having to order stuff from abroad. (Bonus points if you can supply a purchase link/cost.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3934" RevisionGUID="8e518c6f-b7c5-4499-a844-a32393543f1f" CreationDate="2016-06-15T11:52:28.123" UserId="3723" Text="Very Specific Quad Monitor Setup Recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3934" RevisionGUID="8e518c6f-b7c5-4499-a844-a32393543f1f" CreationDate="2016-06-15T11:52:28.123" UserId="3723" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3936" RevisionGUID="b9c1526b-97bd-4309-9ba3-d5389093c544" CreationDate="2016-06-15T14:38:45.870" UserDisplayName="user3725" Text="Look at the HP elite display models. I have 3 of them, they all go from portrait/landscape with a spin of the hand and I love them for work. The bezels are a little under an inch wide, but if you overlap the screens its acceptable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two different models, they are great for productivity. I usually have them in a sideways T configuration, but if I really want to get the most screen real estate nothing beats the H.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3938" RevisionGUID="4779df9f-db03-4f75-9ffc-d2edce1ba71a" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:10:51.203" UserId="3727" Text="I'm looking for a device similar to this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efs6DaTFLto&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/efs6DaTFLto&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to scan a barcode and send the text to two computers via USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pics from video:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device in the video is not for sale and I can't find anything similar elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/f4lGW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rBzGJ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12209" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3938" RevisionGUID="4779df9f-db03-4f75-9ffc-d2edce1ba71a" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:10:51.203" UserId="3727" Text="USB Barcode scanner splitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12210" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3938" RevisionGUID="4779df9f-db03-4f75-9ffc-d2edce1ba71a" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:10:51.203" UserId="3727" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12211" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3932" RevisionGUID="6f083577-6354-4084-9354-ec092e10ace1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T16:14:54.620" UserId="3709" Comment="added a possible option and a few research results" Text="I have set up a VM (web development server) on a USB drive, but consider moving it to a SD card. VM has currently around 25 GB; so with a 64 GB card I would probably be safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is pretty irrelevant, as long as I can justify it to the management.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;why?&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I don´t want the VM to be stored on the host´s hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the USB hard drive has two drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It is an extra object in my bag and on the table (which might be in a cafe, train, waiting room); an SD card would be much more handy.&#xD;&#xA;2. When the host (a Surface Book) goes into standby, it cuts the power to the USB HD; when it wakes up, the VM won´t respond to anything but switching off or reboot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;consideration:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;The card will not only be for putting a few files on it and updating them every now and then, but for actually working on it.&#xD;&#xA;The Surface Book supports UHS-I, as far as I could find out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;questions:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Should I chose a certain type of storage? (performance)&#xD;&#xA;2. Should I prefer a certain manufacturer? (reliability, durability)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;options:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;- half size SD - I found Transcend´s JetDrive Lite, designed for MacBook Air/Pro.&#xD;&#xA;- never found a working microSD to SD adapter; guess the contacts are wearing off fast when you plug/unplug the microSD? But I really like the looks of Bosvision´s microSD Adapter) &#xD;&#xA;- usb stick (SanDisk Ultra Fit or something similar): probably 3rd choice, because the Surface has only two USB ports&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3939" RevisionGUID="71c25e85-89ba-46d7-a871-4ef9e8d13775" CreationDate="2016-06-15T17:14:27.157" UserId="2028" Text="The Surface Book actually supports UHS-II from what I have seen. I think the Lexar Professional 2000x series (UHS-II) of SD cards should fit your needs - https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-2000x-UHS-II-Reader/dp/B00OD71FKU?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a bit more, you can also get a 128gb from Lexar in the same series. If price is a bit too extravagant for your management, the SanDisk Extreme Pro (UHS-II) is available for a slightly cheaper in a 64gb site, although it is slower. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;*Per a customer review on that amazon page for the Lexar card:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Lexar Professional 2000x 300MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 296.5 read / 272.6 write&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - SanDisk Extreme Pro 280MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 274.5 read / 226.9 write&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Toshiba Exceria Pro 260MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 260.5 read / 235.6 write&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3942" RevisionGUID="46bbade0-76b6-4f7a-b2b5-a4d1472e994b" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:02:34.980" UserId="3728" Text="I am looking for a wrist-wearable development platform solution with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Some kind of a display that you can see in the dark as well as in bright sunlight.&#xD;&#xA;* Hardware buttons (as opposed to touch-screen).&#xD;&#xA;* User-programmable on the CPU level (ideally in C).&#xD;&#xA;* ANT+&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi&#xD;&#xA;* Low-power&#xD;&#xA;* Low-cost&#xD;&#xA;* CPU does not have to be awfully fast, 100MHz would be plenty&#xD;&#xA;* Somewhat documented interface with working examples&#xD;&#xA;* It would be nice if the board could run Linux&#xD;&#xA;* It would be nice if it also had a GPS chip&#xD;&#xA;* Something that can be mass-produced at some point to turn into a commercial product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best I've been able to find on the market is so far Motorola's MotoACTV which becomes an OK development platform once you root it, but it has a few problems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Definitely not low-power. With display on, and WiFi/GPS/Ant+ sensors off, it lasts maybe only 8 hours. With GPS on only 3.&#xD;&#xA;* To interface with display and buttons you pretty much have to go through Android as bypassing it creates some serious hurdles - mostly due to the lack of documentation/examples.&#xD;&#xA;* ANT+ interface is a beast to get working as you have to reverse engineer a lot due to the lack of documentation. I have made some progress there, but have not yet been able to actually obtain the signal.&#xD;&#xA;* With GPS you are stuck with the Motorola driver which has some serious issues - sometimes it takes 30 minutes to get the signal, then the signal is often not very accurate. I have made an effort to bypass it and write my own, made some progress, but this is another uphill reverse-engineering battle again to due the lack of documentation/examples.  &#xD;&#xA;* Even if I get everything to work perfectly, this is not a viable commercial development platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ti has Chronos EZ-430 which is sort of in the area, but it is lacking some  capabilities. It might be possible to instrument it with WiFi/Ant+, but if so, I lack the hardware expertise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas on how to build my &quot;dream&quot; gadget would be appreciated - either  pre-made product, or a list of parts/instructions how to put them together including the box/wrist-band to make it wrist-wearable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12218" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3942" RevisionGUID="46bbade0-76b6-4f7a-b2b5-a4d1472e994b" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:02:34.980" UserId="3728" Text="Wearable platform with display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12219" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3942" RevisionGUID="46bbade0-76b6-4f7a-b2b5-a4d1472e994b" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:02:34.980" UserId="3728" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2251" RevisionGUID="297ba74c-6ce6-46f3-a58e-8f3a0b50b277" CreationDate="2016-06-15T20:21:51.920" UserId="2001" Comment="added 230 characters in body" Text="**EDIT:** Since I first wrote this answer, ***Corsair has surprisingly brought back the [K70 RGB](http://amzn.to/1S5VxmH) in Cherry MX Blue switches.*** They were available on Amazon a few days ago, but quickly sold out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the previous answers mentioned the G.Skill KM780 keyboard, and the [KM780R RGB](http://amzn.com/B0186W6PGQ) is now available for preorder, unless Amazon is lying to us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, there is now a [Corsair Strafe RGB](http://amzn.com/B014W1YLAM) keyboard available in Cherry MX Blue switches, although it is a bit overpriced and has a few reviews saying the switches are a bit off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Poseidon Z RGB](http://amzn.to/1WNWaJw) keyboard, which is relatively cheap for an RGB keyboard. This keyboard does NOT have genuine Cherry MX switches (Kalih Blue), and I would only buy this as a last option, because some complain about the switches breaking after awhile of use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12225" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2251" RevisionGUID="ca7c9f7e-2195-4433-ab12-c07630a49618" CreationDate="2016-06-15T20:33:13.430" UserId="2001" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="**EDIT:** Since I first wrote this answer, ***Corsair has surprisingly brought back the [K70 RGB](http://amzn.to/1S5VxmH) in Cherry MX Blue switches.*** They were available on Amazon a few days ago, but quickly sold out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair Strafe RGB](http://amzn.com/B014W1YLAM) is available in Cherry MX Blue switches, and is a great option if you cannot wait for the K70 RGB Blue. The reviews for this keyboard have improved over the last few months, and the one I tried had no problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the previous answers mentioned the G.Skill KM780 keyboard, and the [KM780R RGB](http://amzn.com/B0186W6PGQ) is now available for preorder, unless Amazon is lying to us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Poseidon Z RGB](http://amzn.to/1WNWaJw) keyboard, which is relatively cheap for an RGB keyboard. This keyboard does **NOT** have genuine Cherry MX switches (Kalih Blue), and I would only buy this as a last option, because some complain about the switches breaking after awhile of use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3943" RevisionGUID="76a49590-15e0-4597-b6ba-0f47334901e6" CreationDate="2016-06-15T23:30:47.710" UserId="531" Text="One of the few places where you can't go wrong with dell is their monitors. I don't own this *specific* model, but I can attest to them having excellent build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell 2415H is probably what you should be looking at no pun intended. Dell lists them at GBP 245 on their website (with a discount), but you probably can comparison shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *really* small bezels, IPS (and which ensures awesome viewing angles and great colour quality). They're 1080p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does HDMI and DP only (but there's simple converters for DVI, or even VGA should the need arise).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell probably makes the best monitor stands on the market. They sell a dual monitor stand if that's what floats your boat. The standard stands give you height, tilt, *and* rotation adjustments, though this seems a new design. If you want to vesa mount them, they're compatible with the 100mm standard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not bothering to list out which requirements of yours they meet, cause they meet *all* of them. Right down to the lack of speakers. These are probably the monitors you want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fnZb6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12231" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3943" RevisionGUID="f9530a85-ddf2-4709-8b86-7d3be1ede864" CreationDate="2016-06-16T03:04:40.863" UserId="531" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="One of the few places where you can't go wrong with dell is their monitors. I don't own this *specific* model, but I can attest to them having excellent build quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Dell 2417H][1] is probably what you should be looking at, no pun intended. Dell lists them at GBP 245 on their website (with a discount), but you probably can comparison shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are *really* small bezels, IPS (and which ensures awesome viewing angles and great colour quality). They're 1080p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does HDMI and DP only (but there's simple converters for DVI, or even VGA should the need arise).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell probably makes the best monitor stands on the market. They sell a dual monitor stand if that's what floats your boat. The standard stands give you height, tilt, *and* rotation adjustments, though this seems a new design. If you want to vesa mount them, they're compatible with the 100mm standard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not bothering to list out which requirements of yours they meet, cause they meet *all* of them. Right down to the lack of speakers. These are probably the monitors you want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www1.euro.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/dell-u2417h-monitor?c=uk&amp;cs=ukdhs1&amp;l=en&amp;s=dhs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fnZb6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3944" RevisionGUID="4f2cf8db-e814-414b-a3d4-20be3d03d4d5" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:29:39.680" UserId="3665" Text="&gt; What are main differences compared to building a desktop ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much differences between servers and desktops. For instance, Xeon CPUs are not always better than &quot;simple&quot; standards i7 (for instance, the Intel Core i7-6800K is a bit better than the E5-1620 and cost only 440$). But, they are designed to be able to run on a multi-CPU configuration. So if multi-CPU is what you are looking for, yes go on Xeon. The E5-1620 is kind of old now, why not consider going for E5-2640 v3? Less expensive and a bit better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can I do without for instance a GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Becareful, Xeon processors do not embed IGP (like other Core iX does). So no, if you go for Xeon, you'll need a GPU. As said benjamin moskovits, if you goal is a database GPU, just take the less expensive and it will do the job. Something like Nvidia Geforce GT740 should be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Does a motherboard supporting 2 CPU's and 16 RAM slots require me to fill both CPU's to be able to use the full RAM ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an interesting question and I really don't know (even if I'd say that yes, it can). But why bother using a 2sockets motherboard if you do not us them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Any recommendations as to replace parts by cheaper, but performance wise similar products ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed two things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As a general advice, do not go for low cost/value select RAM. Especially for some kind of critical use (I guess) such as a server. Valueselect tends to fail more quickly than other.&#xD;&#xA; - I can see that you intend to use watercooling. From my experience, the extra-cost of watercooling isn't worse it. You'd better save the money for better high-end standard CPU fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3945" RevisionGUID="9e1baff1-0645-42f1-8749-499594057a6c" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:35:55.277" UserId="3709" Text="An OS will be running on the card; so I need short access times, and it seems that microSDs are better than any standard SD in that respect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will give the SanDisk Extreme PRO microSD 64GB a chance (read access min/max/avg: 0.24ms/1.33ms/0.61ms; write access 1.18ms/80.02ms/1.69ms)&#xD;&#xA;and put it into a Bosvision adapter (https://www.amazon.com//dp/B01AT7ECA2  https://www.amazon.co.uk//dp/B01D5UEX9K / https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01D5UEX9K)&#xD;&#xA;1,69 ms	80,02 ms	1,18 ms" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12235" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3934" RevisionGUID="e541a27e-1200-4aad-bcd3-8669bfff1c48" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:44:32.077" UserId="3723" Comment="edited title" Text="Very Specific (Non-Gaming) Quad Monitor Setup Recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3939" RevisionGUID="a895232f-3849-41d6-829f-f0077dca8200" CreationDate="2016-06-16T09:55:42.373" UserId="155" Comment="inline link" Text="The Surface Book actually supports UHS-II from what I have seen. I think the [Lexar Professional 2000x Series UHS-II/U3][1] of SD cards should fit your needs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a bit more, you can also get a 128gb from Lexar in the same series. If price is a bit too extravagant for your management, the SanDisk Extreme Pro (UHS-II) is available for a slightly cheaper in a 64gb site, although it is slower. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;*Per a customer review on that amazon page for the Lexar card:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Lexar Professional 2000x 300MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 296.5 read / 272.6 write&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - SanDisk Extreme Pro 280MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 274.5 read / 226.9 write&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Toshiba Exceria Pro 260MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 260.5 read / 235.6 write&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-2000x-UHS-II-Reader/dp/B00OD71FKU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3934" RevisionGUID="e582d953-5e51-42e8-8f41-e486a538809a" CreationDate="2016-06-16T10:35:31.757" UserId="3723" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm considering updating my monitor setup to a quad display workstation sometime soon, but I'm having trouble finding a monitor that fits my list of requirements...prepare yourself (in no particular order):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22&quot;-24&quot; (not against bigger...)&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 (or wider)&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p (don't want 4K, it's just too expensive!)&#xD;&#xA; - Rotating stand (I want the screens to be able to be either portrait or landscape)&#xD;&#xA; - VGA, HDMI, DVI (though I guess I could skimp on one of them, most likely VGA)&#xD;&#xA; - thin black/no bezel (again, would be really great, but if it's not possible it's not possible...)&#xD;&#xA; - No speakers&#xD;&#xA; - Non gaming&#xD;&#xA; - Wide viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These monitors will be used solely as a productivity boost. No gaming at all, so I don't need any gaming related monitor features. They will be used for some graphics work, but nothing serious so maximum colour quality isn't a must, just something &quot;decent&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too bothered about them having mounting plate points, but I suppose it would be a nice bonus. If they did have them I would probably put together a DIY stand at some point, but for now I definitely want them to all stand and rotate independently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After all that, I'm not really sure where to cap the cost. The lower the cost the better. I'll judge how realistic this ideal setup is when I know how much it would cost me!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? I'm in the UK, so I'd prefer local options to having to order stuff from abroad. (Bonus points if you can supply a purchase link/cost.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3945" RevisionGUID="8d65b5e0-9e4c-429f-9915-8914def6ca93" CreationDate="2016-06-16T15:03:10.647" UserId="3709" Comment="removed trash from the post" Text="An OS will be running on the card; so I need short access times, and it seems that microSDs are better than any standard SD in that respect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will give the SanDisk Extreme PRO microSD 64GB a chance (read access min/max/avg: 0.24ms/1.33ms/0.61ms; write access 1.18ms/80.02ms/1.69ms)&#xD;&#xA;and put it into a Bosvision adapter (https://www.amazon.com//dp/B01AT7ECA2  https://www.amazon.co.uk//dp/B01D5UEX9K / https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01D5UEX9K)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3947" RevisionGUID="7b182b4c-3e6f-4f41-a27e-b67d360f6109" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:07:43.263" UserId="3735" Text="I have a [TiVo Premiere](http://www3-stg.tivo.com/products/tivo-premiere/premiere-specs.html) that seems to be in the process of dying, so I'd like to replace it with another DVR (needn't be TiVo, and refurbished is fine).  Less-expensive options are preferable but I want a box that I can just plug in -- I don't want to build my own Linux box for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works with Verizon FiOS with a multi-stream CableCard.&#xD;&#xA;- Wired ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;- Programming by show, including by season: &quot;record $series (all season)&quot; or &quot;record $show (that's on next week)&quot;.  The device (or its associated program guide) should do the right thing if something causes programming to run 5 minutes late that night.&#xD;&#xA;- No monthly fees.  A one-time fee for program-guide services (like TiVo has) is fine, and considered to be part of the cost of the device.&#xD;&#xA;- Hard drive can hold at least 50 hours of HD recordings.&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI out.  (I assume they all have that these days.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works with antenna.&#xD;&#xA;- Two tuners.&#xD;&#xA;- Supports additional external hard drive (USB).&#xD;&#xA;- Android app to function as remote control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do not care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Streaming services.  (My Roku is just fine for that.)&#xD;&#xA;- Music, photos, web.&#xD;&#xA;- Paid services (video on demand to watch a hot movie or sporting event, for instance).&#xD;&#xA;- 4K output.&#xD;&#xA;- Support for multiple TVs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3947" RevisionGUID="7b182b4c-3e6f-4f41-a27e-b67d360f6109" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:07:43.263" UserId="3735" Text="DVR with the ability to record &quot;all instances of this show&quot;; don't care about streaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3947" RevisionGUID="7b182b4c-3e6f-4f41-a27e-b67d360f6109" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:07:43.263" UserId="3735" Text="&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12246" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="3947" RevisionGUID="fb55195c-43c8-4f24-81bc-9d78eaaeeb43" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:17:46.770" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;video-capture&gt;&lt;dvr&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3948" RevisionGUID="89737564-5974-441c-ba9e-1125bf8e57a5" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:18:30.927" UserId="8" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3949" RevisionGUID="691ef93a-2491-4b26-a743-aa12fedca34f" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:18:30.927" UserId="8" Text="For questions asking for a Digital (or Personal) Video Recorder, used to record content from live television for later viewing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="05615d73-489f-43ba-8443-0f5221bc3a85" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:39:28.633" UserId="3739" Text="I've tried to convert my USB ESC/POS printer to a network printer. I have tried print server such as TL-WPS510U, but it only supports PS and PCL. Is there any print server that support ESC/POS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, is there anyway that I could convert my USB to network printer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, I could purchase Ethernet printer. Is there a way to convert Ethernet printer to WiFi printer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12253" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="05615d73-489f-43ba-8443-0f5221bc3a85" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:39:28.633" UserId="3739" Text="Convert USB to WiFi Printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12254" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="05615d73-489f-43ba-8443-0f5221bc3a85" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:39:28.633" UserId="3739" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3952" RevisionGUID="b4dbc33d-3440-4276-a4a1-fa9f4c0a6535" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:49:48.310" UserId="2028" Text="It does not look like there are any companies currently making a USB-to-wifi print server that supports ESC/P. Viewsonic made one years ago (model WPS-100), but it only supported wireless G and its configuration software was made for Windows XP. In other words, even if you could track one of these down, it would likely have compatibility issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you have a printer with ethernet access, you can get a wireless access point and set it to bridge mode. After this access point is configured in bridge mode you'll be able to plug an ethernet cable between your printer and the access point. At this point your printer should be available on your wireless network." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12260" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="c3ec64c7-d257-4a9c-9bcd-24ce6c3cefef" CreationDate="2016-06-16T21:17:30.117" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3955" RevisionGUID="f59bebd5-05b1-4196-8bc8-339c9abcfecc" CreationDate="2016-06-17T04:47:53.597" UserId="2378" Text="I need a laptop that can support windows XP 64 bit, I need 16gb of ram minimum and a good Intel processor. The WiFi card HAS to be reliable and not keep disconnecting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that drivers for modern hardware can be a problem as vendors don't bother to support XP anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3955" RevisionGUID="f59bebd5-05b1-4196-8bc8-339c9abcfecc" CreationDate="2016-06-17T04:47:53.597" UserId="2378" Text="Best laptop for running XP on" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3955" RevisionGUID="f59bebd5-05b1-4196-8bc8-339c9abcfecc" CreationDate="2016-06-17T04:47:53.597" UserId="2378" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12273" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3955" RevisionGUID="b5e489c0-dea7-4670-88bb-60731b7dbdcb" CreationDate="2016-06-17T05:19:05.863" UserId="2378" Comment="added 199 characters in body" Text="I need a laptop that can support windows XP 64 bit, I need 16gb of ram minimum and a good Intel processor. The WiFi card HAS to be reliable and not keep disconnecting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that drivers for modern hardware can be a problem as vendors don't bother to support XP anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a dell inspiron e5200 right now, it is hopeless and I've had enough.&#xD;&#xA;I have a high end HP laptop, that doesn't support XP very well. and it's also hopeless regardless of what I put on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12274" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3956" RevisionGUID="da362b57-5afe-4db5-9965-bf59f8f02087" CreationDate="2016-06-17T06:41:52.760" UserId="3745" Text="To improve my productivity, I’ve been looking for a watch with a minute timer to force myself to complete tasks on time (e.g. 15,30,45…min). Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Timer should be set via a rotating face**: fastest to set (like kitchen minute timers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Watch must be analog**: smartwatches provide too much distraction and need to be recharged constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Timer should have vibrating sound**: because beeping will be too annoying to me and colleagues on the long run.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the watch should have casual design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching online and asked in several watch stores, no luck finding this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1jAa.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12275" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3956" RevisionGUID="da362b57-5afe-4db5-9965-bf59f8f02087" CreationDate="2016-06-17T06:41:52.760" UserId="3745" Text="Where can I find a minute timer watch with rotating face?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12276" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3956" RevisionGUID="da362b57-5afe-4db5-9965-bf59f8f02087" CreationDate="2016-06-17T06:41:52.760" UserId="3745" Text="&lt;alarm-clock&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12280" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3944" RevisionGUID="74b6ccf0-b1d3-4fb4-9a47-2fd76de3a999" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:53:23.487" UserId="3665" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="&gt; What are main differences compared to building a desktop ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much differences between servers and desktops. For instance, Xeon CPUs are not always better than &quot;simple&quot; standards i7 (for instance, the Intel Core i7-6800K is a bit better than the E5-1620 and cost only 440$). But, they are designed to be able to run on a multi-CPU configuration. So if multi-CPU is what you are looking for, yes go on Xeon. The E5-1620 is kind of old now, why not consider going for E5-2640 v3? Less expensive and a bit better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can I do without for instance a GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Becareful, Xeon processors do not embed IGP (like other Core iX does). So no, if you go for Xeon, you'll need a GPU. As said benjamin moskovits, if you goal is a database, just take the less expensive and it will do the job. Something like Nvidia Geforce GT740 should be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Does a motherboard supporting 2 CPU's and 16 RAM slots require me to fill both CPU's to be able to use the full RAM ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an interesting question and I really don't know (even if I'd say that yes, it can). But why bother using a 2sockets motherboard if you do not us them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Any recommendations as to replace parts by cheaper, but performance wise similar products ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed two things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As a general advice, do not go for low cost/value select RAM. Especially for some kind of critical use (I guess) such as a server. Valueselect tends to fail more quickly than other.&#xD;&#xA; - I can see that you intend to use watercooling. From my experience, the extra-cost of watercooling isn't worse it. You'd better save the money for better high-end standard CPU fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3958" RevisionGUID="bc4672a5-9e2c-4c1c-a4c3-86d7e77a60ad" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:59:03.277" UserId="3747" Text="I'm kind of looking for a replacement and am really confused of the options available so I need suggestion from experts out there!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've a Linksys WAG 200G ADSL model which had a 54Mbps wifi speed and a fair range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since there are a fair number wi-fi devices including 5 network cams, I'm looking for a good modem with nice range (to cover approx area of 750 Sq Ft) and equal or above wi-fi speeds of 300Mbps. I have a 10Mbps ADSL+ Intrenet connection from state owned BSNL India.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a combination of a good ADSL+ modem and Wi-Fi router. Thanks for all the suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12282" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3958" RevisionGUID="bc4672a5-9e2c-4c1c-a4c3-86d7e77a60ad" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:59:03.277" UserId="3747" Text="ADSL+ modem and Wi-Fi router recommendation for India" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12283" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3958" RevisionGUID="bc4672a5-9e2c-4c1c-a4c3-86d7e77a60ad" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:59:03.277" UserId="3747" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3959" RevisionGUID="e8aefc8d-da56-4510-92f8-5db05a5c3fdf" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:27:41.493" UserId="3665" Text="Does the Roccat Tyon suits you?&#xD;&#xA;A bit more expensive that what you've asked (~65€) but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 buttons&#xD;&#xA; - From my experience, it's a really good mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.roccat.org/fr-FR/Products/Gaming-Mice/Tyon/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3960" RevisionGUID="00ba3c67-ffa3-4b39-8e22-3b861de3ce38" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:35:33.213" UserId="3665" Text="Moto G 2015 is (slightly) less bigger than the Nexus5 and is able to run 6.0. Lenovo K5 could also be an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also found this: Samsung Galaxy Xcover 3: http://gadgets.ndtv.com/samsung-galaxy-xcover-3-value-edition-3446&#xD;&#xA;Which is 4.5&quot;,  Android 6.0, LTE, only 8GB (but extendable with SD card, which with android 6.0 is a lot more interesting than before)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12287" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3956" RevisionGUID="d58c30cf-1888-44c8-8ac6-0a13f11c0c25" CreationDate="2016-06-17T10:42:21.240" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3961" RevisionGUID="2ddda0a9-d47d-49fe-8698-8ae763f60bea" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:00:47.593" UserId="2028" Text="I think you should take a look at used workstation laptops made just before the XP support dropped off, maybe circa-2013. Since you are already familiar with high-end HP, I suggest looking for a used 8570w or 8770w. There appears to be a full set of 64bit XP drivers available ([8570w - Windows XP 64bit drivers][1]). There are dual core and quad core variants of this laptop, with the dual core supporting 16gb of memory and the quad supporting 32gb. The wireless card is an Intel Ultimate-N 6300 which does have a Windows XP 64bit dirver. The supported i5 and i7 processors are 3rd generation / Ivy bridge, but you will still have much better performance versus the Dell Inspiron you mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/swd/public/readIndex?sp4ts.oid=5257503&amp;swLangOid=8&amp;swEnvOid=2002 &quot;8570w - Windows XP 64bit drivers&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3962" RevisionGUID="b14a3a3a-f969-455a-a3b0-7b2903ff079e" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:46:03.263" UserId="3751" Text="I want to buy a new laptop which I'm going to use mainly for watching movies, write latex documents, using mathematica and programming from time to time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a laptop as lightweight as possible with a good battery life. I was thinking in 13&quot; more or less and I have been recommended the [Dell XPS 13][1] but it is much more expensive in Europe than in the USA. Also, I'm going to install Linux in it as soon as I get it so I don't care about the SO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any similar and cheaper option? The only other requirement that I have is that I want it to have just a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12290" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3962" RevisionGUID="b14a3a3a-f969-455a-a3b0-7b2903ff079e" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:46:03.263" UserId="3751" Text="Lightweight laptop with SSD and long battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12291" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3962" RevisionGUID="b14a3a3a-f969-455a-a3b0-7b2903ff079e" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:46:03.263" UserId="3751" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12292" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3962" RevisionGUID="3fc8cf02-452d-4e84-982a-587112658afd" CreationDate="2016-06-17T22:40:24.553" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="I want to buy a new laptop which I'm going to use mainly for watching movies, write latex documents, using mathematica and programming from time to time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a laptop as lightweight as possible with a good battery life. I was thinking in 13&quot; more or less and I have been recommended the [Dell XPS 13][1] but it is much more expensive in Europe than in the USA. Also, I'm going to install Linux in it as soon as I get it so I don't care about the OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any similar and cheaper option? The only other requirement that I have is that I want it to have just a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9350-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12304" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="f040b9aa-615d-44d4-8b32-1afdcf0979d9" CreationDate="2016-06-18T00:59:22.590" UserId="3739" Comment="ArtOfCode is very picky on the words used." Text="I've tried to convert my USB ESC/POS printer to a network printer. I have tried print server such as TL-WPS510U, but it only supports PS and PCL. Is there any print server that support ESC/POS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, is there anyway that I could convert my USB to network printer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, I could purchase Ethernet printer. &lt;del&gt;Is there a way to convert Ethernet printer to WiFi printer?&lt;/del&gt; Can anyone please recommend a hardware that is available to allow Ethernet printer as WiFi printer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12305" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2714" RevisionGUID="5fe882fe-2845-4a8c-950b-b9db6a031221" CreationDate="2016-06-18T02:32:07.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3969" RevisionGUID="eeaab7fd-589c-44e8-b65f-29c6d83eb524" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:35:51.890" UserId="3758" Text="A couple of colleagues say their laptops have 2xquad-core i7 processors.  One has an HP envy, the other has a dell precision laptop.  Yet I can't find anything on the dell or hp or on the web about 2xquad-core i7 processors available in a laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there laptops out there that have 2xquad core i7 processors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give you an idea of use, I'm looking to run around 10 VMs running a range of middleware technologies and databases, the load won't be that great, but would be nice to have the power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12323" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3969" RevisionGUID="eeaab7fd-589c-44e8-b65f-29c6d83eb524" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:35:51.890" UserId="3758" Text="Are there laptops with 2xquad-core i7 processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12324" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3969" RevisionGUID="eeaab7fd-589c-44e8-b65f-29c6d83eb524" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:35:51.890" UserId="3758" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12325" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3970" RevisionGUID="45eaa4aa-a2b3-4587-bb6e-6183011ad71b" CreationDate="2016-06-18T21:38:30.970" UserId="3709" Text="Your colleagues may have a quadcore in their Laptops, but one each only. Haven´t seen a laptop with two CPUs yet. That´s what you have MultiCore for nowadays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See more detailed info at http://superuser.com/questions/906539/is-using-multiple-cpus-possible-in-a-laptop (see Coretool´s answer) and&#xD;&#xA;https://www.quora.com/Personal-computers-Dual-processors-Why-doesnt-a-PC-have-a-CPU-dedicated-to-the-user#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I found that there *is* a laptop with two CPUs: The Asus Transformer Book Trio has an Intel i7 for Windows and an Intel Atom for Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3971" RevisionGUID="674263bd-c4e4-46e3-9fb1-3b66610903e1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:53:39.273" UserId="951" Text="I need to upgrade HP ProBook 4530s disk, what would you suggest, considering following requirements for the SSD: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - at least 200 GB&#xD;&#xA; - max read &amp; write above or around 500 MB/s&#xD;&#xA; - around 100$, lower is better ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current specs for HP ProBook 4530s are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB Ram&#xD;&#xA; - i3-2310M (2*2.1 + Multi Threading)&#xD;&#xA; - 320 GB HDD 7200 rpm&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6 display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Samsung EVO 850 250 GB or ADATA SP550 240 GB. What dou you suggest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3971" RevisionGUID="674263bd-c4e4-46e3-9fb1-3b66610903e1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:53:39.273" UserId="951" Text="SSD upgrade of HP ProBook 4530s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3971" RevisionGUID="674263bd-c4e4-46e3-9fb1-3b66610903e1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:53:39.273" UserId="951" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3973" RevisionGUID="d530e2e5-cb1f-4d8e-a37d-7ef8ea99bdd3" CreationDate="2016-06-19T18:26:00.830" UserId="912" Text="It is not possible to run 2 x i7 because they are consumer grade CPUs and do not support multi CPU configurations. I do not believe there is a laptop that can simultaneously use 2 CPUs at once because of power and thermal limitations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should look into mobile workstations that feature either an Xeon or an i7 Extreme edition CPU with at least 16GB of RAM. The Lenovo ThinkPad P50 is a great choice with an Xeon CPU and up to 64GB of RAM (I recommend 32GB). It is also pretty affordable with the 32GB ECC RAM and Xeon E3 and Nvidia Quadro version only around $2,500." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3974" RevisionGUID="b7389ac5-f187-4f3f-86b3-88d5cda44373" CreationDate="2016-06-19T18:51:28.800" UserId="3709" Text="All the laptops I know that already have an SSD built in are 1000€ and above; so if you want to get below that, you will most probably have to replace the HDD yourself, which will add 60 to 80 Euros to the price for 250GB.&#xD;&#xA;Make sure you get a 7mm drive!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [Chip Magazine](http://www.chip.de/artikel/Laptops-mit-gutem-Akku-kaufen-Mobilrechner-mit-langer-Laufzeit_78615676.html), the Acer Aspire E5-571-316T has the best battery for low budget laptops.&#xD;&#xA;It costs around 400€, has about 12 hours of battery working with office, 8.5 hours watching video, but has 15&quot; and weighs 2.3kg. [Video for replacing the HDD](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysEMjTPp4hA) (and more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer Aspire ES1-331-C8XF is a just a bit less expensive and also comes with no SSD has &quot;only&quot; 9 hrs/6 hrs of battery, but with 13&quot; it only weighs 1.5kg. [Replacing the HDD](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OowstDvLDFY).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="81a72523-9c56-480f-b052-7c38dc22bcbf" CreationDate="2016-06-19T19:43:47.360" UserId="3762" Text="I've tried to Google and searching on sites like Amazon, perhaps I don't know the right keywords.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a receiver/amplifier that can mix multiple inputs.  Right now I have a cheap, passive analog stereo mixer, but this does not help me with things like TOSLINK (optical or coax) and HDMI inputs.  It is also an extra piece of hardware, with extra cabling, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing as a receiver, or amplifier, that can select multiple inputs at once (mixing)?  Only having the option of selecting one input at a time is not acceptable for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this doesn't exist, I'd be willing to run a separate mixer device if it could take multiple input types (as stated above)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="81a72523-9c56-480f-b052-7c38dc22bcbf" CreationDate="2016-06-19T19:43:47.360" UserId="3762" Text="Receiver or amplifier that can mix inputs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="81a72523-9c56-480f-b052-7c38dc22bcbf" CreationDate="2016-06-19T19:43:47.360" UserId="3762" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;&lt;mixing-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12342" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="bcfddb02-72f0-48fb-9647-4942820b8de0" CreationDate="2016-06-19T21:55:15.077" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="dec6dfd9-3f4b-400f-8a3d-2ff962749b05" CreationDate="2016-06-19T22:02:39.273" UserId="3762" Comment="Specify preference" Text="I've tried to Google and searching on sites like Amazon, perhaps I don't know the right keywords.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a receiver that can mix multiple inputs.  Right now I have a cheap, passive analog stereo mixer, but this does not help me with things like TOSLINK (optical or coax) and HDMI inputs.  It is also an extra piece of hardware, with extra cabling, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing as a receiver that can select multiple inputs at once (mixing)?  Only having the option of selecting one input at a time is not acceptable for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this doesn't exist, I'd be willing to run an amplifier with mixing capability, or a separate mixer device--in that order of preference--if it could take multiple input types (as stated above)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12344" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="dec6dfd9-3f4b-400f-8a3d-2ff962749b05" CreationDate="2016-06-19T22:02:39.273" UserId="3762" Comment="Specify preference" Text="Receiver that can mix inputs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3976" RevisionGUID="89ceb9d7-b010-4c38-be90-e1f060afc03a" CreationDate="2016-06-19T22:10:44.873" UserId="273" Text="Because I feel that some people may be unsatiesfied with Thomas' recommendation of the Gemalto IDPrime Cards, I wanted to give another option here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[The Smartcard-HSM][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It offers 1024-2048-bit RSA or up to 320-bit ECC with all NIST and Brainpool curves being pre-loaded and may even support custom curves (although I've got no source for this right now)&#xD;&#xA; - It supports ECDSA and RSA signatures and allows for SHA-1 based on-card hashing (ECDSA) and for SHA1 /-256 /-384 /-512 based RSA pre-hashing (&quot;PKCS&quot;, may be PKCS#1 v1.5)&#xD;&#xA; - The operating system is CC EAL5+ certified, the chip platform is only EAL2+, the [TOE can be found here][2]&#xD;&#xA; - It ships as a standard card form factor (contact, contactless and dual-interface), as micro SD with secure element and 1GB normal memory and as USB-token&#xD;&#xA; - The only reseller at the moment is [card-o-matic][3], individual cards will be around 20€ a piece, the tokens will be at around 80€ and more&#xD;&#xA; - Driver support is available via OpenSC, supporting Windows CAPI and PKCS#11, the device driver (for Windows) is delivered extra and requires disabling driver signature checks for the installation though, the OpenSC PKCS#11 library has its limitations though, for example only one application can access the token at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - If you have initialized the card with a specific key (called device-key-encryption-key (DKEK)) then you will be able to make key-backups off-card, otherwise not&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TL;DR: It may be a bit expensive and a bit unconvenient from time-to-time, and somewhat limited in security level, but if backups, brainpool and / or high CC certification are what you're looking for, this may be the right choice.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.smartcard-hsm.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.commoncriteriaportal.org/files/epfiles/0515a.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cardomatic.de/epages/64510967.sf/en_GB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3978" RevisionGUID="9ef35e8f-3e00-4ca6-b513-6810c354222b" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:17:04.133" UserId="2480" Text="I am a System Admin at an IT Support Services company that supports small and medium sized businesses in the DC metro area.  My boss is getting ready to purchase me a laptop for work.  Not having a laptop with me all day is limiting my efficiency in handling calls I get while on-site with a client; with a laptop I can provide remote support or answers for certain tasks instead of waiting until I get back to my computer at the office.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essential Specs:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Size: 15.6 or smaller with 1920x1080 resolution or better  &#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Quad Core Intel i5 or i7  &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: DDR4 8gb or more expandable (would be open to non-expandable ram depending on what other laptop suggestions)  &#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard: As close to full sized as possible; keys cannot be too shallow and/or too small.  Number pad would be nice but is not required.&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi: Dual Band AC  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the laptop to have both a hdd for storage and a pcie nvme ssd for Windows and apps.  Not getting the nvme ssd is not a deal breaker by any means just something that would be useful to me.  I would use the nvme ssd for my boot/app drive and the a hdd sata drive for storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12352" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3978" RevisionGUID="9ef35e8f-3e00-4ca6-b513-6810c354222b" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:17:04.133" UserId="2480" Text="Laptop for IT Sys Admin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12353" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3978" RevisionGUID="9ef35e8f-3e00-4ca6-b513-6810c354222b" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:17:04.133" UserId="2480" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3978" RevisionGUID="b6a3116a-9904-4824-89b1-ad668b0454ae" CreationDate="2016-06-20T12:34:41.307" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I am a System Admin at an IT Support Services company that supports small and medium sized businesses in the DC metro area.  My boss is getting ready to purchase me a laptop for work.  Not having a laptop with me all day is limiting my efficiency in handling calls I get while on-site with a client; with a laptop I can provide remote support or answers for certain tasks instead of waiting until I get back to my computer at the office.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essential Specs:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Size: 15.6 or smaller with 1920x1080 resolution or better  &#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Quad Core Intel i5 or i7  &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: DDR4 8gb or more expandable (would be open to non-expandable ram depending on what other laptop suggestions)  &#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard: As close to full sized as possible; keys cannot be too shallow and/or too small.  Number pad would be nice but is not required.&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi: Dual Band AC  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the laptop to have both a HDD for storage and a PCIe NVME SSD for Windows and apps.  Not getting the NVME SSD is not a deal breaker by any means just something that would be useful to me.  I would use the SSD for my boot/app drive and the a HDD SATA drive for storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12370" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="3975" RevisionGUID="216f89ef-cbed-4f10-8ed3-af87d1683ef3" CreationDate="2016-06-20T12:38:27.390" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3951" RevisionGUID="8a20df30-7d1d-41b4-b0c2-36cb9376f7b8" CreationDate="2016-06-20T12:42:14.360" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I've tried to convert my USB ESC/POS printer to a network printer. I have tried print servers such as the TL-WPS510U, but it only supports PS and PCL. Is there a print server that supports ESC/POS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, is there anyway that I could convert my USB to network printer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, I could purchase Ethernet printer. &lt;del&gt;Is there a way to convert Ethernet printer to WiFi printer?&lt;/del&gt; Can anyone recommend hardware that is available to allow Ethernet printer to function as a WiFi printer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3986" RevisionGUID="41e90468-e543-4b96-b7c9-0b32b2872c6e" CreationDate="2016-06-20T20:47:19.240" UserId="3772" Text="I need a recommendation on a controller to use, which will automatically cause a water flushing system to turn on and off at certain times. I have played around with a [LOGO!][1] PLC but it is turning out to be very restrictive.&#xD;&#xA;Some qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low power usage: the controller only needs to log data every hour or so. It is powered by a solar panel and a battery and cannot draw too much electricity (especially during the winter).&#xD;&#xA; - A way to configure flushing times. This either could be an attachable/onboard display and interface, or a way to connect externally. If going with the latter, it should act as a simple server and respond to commands, or host a webserver&#xD;&#xA; - The ability to log data and export it, over a network or onto external storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus point for...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An integrated way to connect to a cell network (using a sim card)&#xD;&#xA; - Being really small!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://w3.siemens.com/mcms/programmable-logic-controller/en/logic-module-logo/pages/default.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3986" RevisionGUID="41e90468-e543-4b96-b7c9-0b32b2872c6e" CreationDate="2016-06-20T20:47:19.240" UserId="3772" Text="Automated controller for outdoor use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3986" RevisionGUID="41e90468-e543-4b96-b7c9-0b32b2872c6e" CreationDate="2016-06-20T20:47:19.240" UserId="3772" Text="&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3988" RevisionGUID="8f5cb8eb-d2d1-4da7-8dbb-661fccddd6d3" CreationDate="2016-06-21T09:54:26.957" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the [TPLINK AC1750 ARCHER D7](http://www.amazon.in/TPLINK-AC1750-ARCHER-D7-Router/dp/B00IU85YE6/), INR 8,529.00 and free shipping from Amazon.in. The [CNET.au review](http://www.cnet.com/au/products/tp-link-archer-d7-ac1750/2/) shows that it has a real throughput of more than 300 Mbps total. However, much of this bandwidth comes over the 5 GHz band, so you still might require your old router for extra range (run a Ethernet cable across)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It integrates a ADSL 2+ modem, as required, and should be able to cover most of your property." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="4ccfbe1e-60e0-4831-b265-d13cbee9618e" CreationDate="2016-06-21T15:57:21.663" UserId="2601" Text="I love playing video games, however as it is not a full-time hobby of mine, as I write a lot, as I am not comfortable with &quot;un-flat&quot; keys and as I don't care about the mechanical thing, I want to go for a flat keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is, I'd also like to have a yellow-illuminated keyboard, and as nobody apart from me cares about that color, no such thing exist. So my option is to go for a RGB one so I can put it yellow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BUT, apart from gamer keyboards, I can't find any RGB illuminated keyboard. And obviously it is close to impossible to find a gamer keyboard with flat keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also find it relevant to tell you that noisy keyboards drive me mad especially since, as I said, I do write a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here I am looking for a **flat, RGB illuminated, silent keyboard**. The only one I have found matching my requirements is the Razer Deathstalker Chroma. While it does look neat and seems perfect for my needs, I find it a bit expensive - well like all Razer stuff - and am wondering I there isn't a cheaper option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions welcome :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="4ccfbe1e-60e0-4831-b265-d13cbee9618e" CreationDate="2016-06-21T15:57:21.663" UserId="2601" Text="Is there another flat, RGB illuminated keyboard than Razer Deathstalker Chroma?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="4ccfbe1e-60e0-4831-b265-d13cbee9618e" CreationDate="2016-06-21T15:57:21.663" UserId="2601" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3994" RevisionGUID="f376e862-a422-43ae-8dfa-126d1e26e542" CreationDate="2016-06-21T16:54:05.050" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Maybe some further google searching could find a few more results, but it seems chiclet keyboards with RGB LEDs are few and far between.  I did however find this Steelseries https://steelseries.com/gaming-keyboards/apex-350, it might not be what your are looking for exactly, but it is low profile, RGB, and not mechanical.  Not sure if cheaper than the Razer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12411" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="e10e0cd3-4d0a-4dbb-9532-f9b9f6bb7d1c" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:13:51.363" UserId="912" Comment="Shortened it" Text="I love playing video games, however as it is not a full-time hobby of mine, as I write a lot I am uncomfortable with any other keycaps and I do not want a mechanical keyboard. I am looking for a **chicklet key, RGB illuminated (or yellow backlighting), silent keyboard**. The only one I have found matching my requirements is the Razer Deathstalker Chroma. While it does look neat and seems perfect for my needs, I find it a bit expensive and am wondering I there isn't a cheaper option. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12412" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="e10e0cd3-4d0a-4dbb-9532-f9b9f6bb7d1c" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:13:51.363" UserId="912" Comment="Shortened it" Text="RGB Chicklet Keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="ff466e47-2ca5-4c3c-b0c8-a5a591d9ce8b" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:54:09.613" UserId="279" Text="My company is going to buy a work laptop for me (since I've been using my own for a while), and they are going to let me select it. I don't know exactly what my price-range is, since they wouldn't actually give me a hard-limit when I asked. However, they implied that they would be willing to spend somewhere in the range of $1,000 USD. I will probably select some slightly cheaper and some slightly more expensive ones and let them pick between these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop will primarily be used for firmware and software development and [TwinCAT](https://www.beckhoff.com/english.asp?twincat/default.htm), as well as general day-to-day office stuff. (Excel, word, emails, etc.) Sometimes I will compile very large projects, or have multiple instances of Visual Studio or a similar IDE open at a time (which isn't all that much, given Visual Studio's [system requirements](https://www.visualstudio.com/en-us/downloads/visual-studio-2015-system-requirements-vs.aspx#30)). Beyond that, I don't do anything particularly demanding. I'd like it to boot quickly, so an SSD is a must. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As I said, an SSD is a must. My current computer has only 220 GB, and I still have plenty of space left, so we'll say atleast 250 GB. Obviously, more would be nice, though it's not necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A 6th-gen intel quad-core CPU. I'd like an I7 or higher, but I could settle for an I5, provided it was still new, quad-core, and fairly powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't do anything demanding on the GPU, so as long as I can plug an external 1080p monitor into it, that's good enough for me. Bonus points if I can plug a second one in. (Though I might need a docking station at that point)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't need an insane amount of RAM. As long as I can have Visual Studio x2, Google Chrome, Vim, and Spotify open at the same time. So 8 GB would probably be enough. (Although I'm certainly not against having more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This probably goes without saying, but it should have an 1/8th inch headphone output and several USB 3 outputs. (I can't imagine any modern laptop *not* having these, but it never hurts to be specific)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Preferences&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Support for a docking station, if I want to upgrade peripherals down the road.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I develop for ethernet a lot (EtherCAT, modbus/tcp, dhcp, etc.), so an onboard ethernet cable would be really really nice. I *could* use an adaptor or a docking station, but using onboard ethernet would be a lot more convenient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not really a laptop connisuier, so there are a lot of things that I either don't really care about or don't know how to quantifiy. For example, I have no idea what a good-battery life would be. I'd *like* a good battery-life, but I don't commute, or have any reason to need a really good one. I also couldn't tell a good one from a bad one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm also not super picky when it comes to things like screen size or weight. (Also don't know how to quantify) I don't want something on either extreme (Such as a chromebook or a giant luggable). A 1080p display (or higher if I can get it at this price) would be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I will be able to use the laptop on my own time, so a gpu (or integrated graphics) strong enough for *very* light gaming would be nice. I already have a computer that can handle pretty much any game, so this is certainly not a requirement. Good linux support would also be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Neutral&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - While looking around on my own, I found that lot's of newer laptops in this price range have touchscreens. I am almost completely neutral on a touchscreen. If it could be cheaper without, I'd go with the cheaper one. If they're the same price, I guess I'd go for the touchscreen. I probably wouldn't end up using it very much though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't really care which version of windows it comes with. It would be nice if it comes with 7 already installed, but if it comes with 8 or 10, I'll just reinstall 7 anyway. (I already have a license and a CD and all that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't have any strong brand preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I don't really care about an optical drive (or lack thereof)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12416" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="ff466e47-2ca5-4c3c-b0c8-a5a591d9ce8b" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:54:09.613" UserId="279" Text="New work laptop for firmware development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12417" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="ff466e47-2ca5-4c3c-b0c8-a5a591d9ce8b" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:54:09.613" UserId="279" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3998" RevisionGUID="9ccc5e87-e3af-48be-abde-2ade712bf0d6" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:20:04.743" UserId="912" Text="I would recommend the Lenovo ThinkPad E560 with at least an i5 and 8GB of RAM. It has an 15.6&quot; 1080p display and 256GB of SSD storage for around $1000. It also has Lenovo OneLink, which is their docking station that can provide you with 2 x USB ports, 1 x Ethernet, 1 x HDMI and an additional hard drive. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12423" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="3999" RevisionGUID="cb360a59-346c-4f48-bf8f-221ee59a5511" CreationDate="2016-06-22T01:32:40.807" UserId="3781" Text="The HP Stream 14 uses the A4 Micro-6400T APU, which is passively cooled. It is already discontinued, but it can still be found on some sites. It is quite limited in performance and storage, but it is the only one passive AMD laptop I have found (and I have been looking for quite a while)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4000" RevisionGUID="48f38b77-3ba7-4f98-a513-f38fb88761b7" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:26:41.553" UserId="2384" Text="Looking to build a value-gaming PC, and it seems like Celeron processors are very cheap for the performance they provide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am okay with server motherboards, no preference.&#xD;&#xA;Any additional recommendations (if such a setup is possible, anyway) about RAM and I/O ports (USB 3.0 and USB 3.1, Thunderbolt, ethernet) are appreciated.  Suggestions or recommendations about dedicated graphics cards, PCIe/NVMe, SSDs, power supply units - basically anything you can buy and attach to a compatible motherboard - are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But most importantly - is such a setup compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no such compatibility, are there other value processors from Intel that I should look at to accomplish the same task?  Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12425" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4000" RevisionGUID="48f38b77-3ba7-4f98-a513-f38fb88761b7" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:26:41.553" UserId="2384" Text="Looking for dual-CPU capable motherboard that is compatible with 2 Intel Celeron G1840 processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12426" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4000" RevisionGUID="48f38b77-3ba7-4f98-a513-f38fb88761b7" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:26:41.553" UserId="2384" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12430" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="2df031a3-a9d4-46e3-b169-2093a333bc7e" CreationDate="2016-06-22T04:58:01.877" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12432" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4000" RevisionGUID="3a2c0e8e-dd4c-4fa8-aeae-fef0e7bf5a48" CreationDate="2016-06-22T05:24:57.240" UserId="155" Comment="removed irrelevant tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12452" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4007" RevisionGUID="71bc95b2-7ba3-42fc-b43b-0f44329e3170" CreationDate="2016-06-22T20:10:01.337" UserDisplayName="user3725" Text="AMD Fury X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the ports, its kind of passive cooled.. comes with a built in AIO cooler. Cheap is a relative term. The fury x is around 600$, but I'm sure there are cheaper models. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm a nvidia guy, and I don't have a way of testing it but I'm sure my 970gtx can push 2x 4k office sessions. And that gpu is only 300$ It's currently pushing 3 1080p displays without so much as breaking a sweat during gaming. If you like to join forces with the green team, there are plenty of options over here. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4011" RevisionGUID="f9536532-16ac-4244-9268-a52418102a19" CreationDate="2016-06-23T04:43:57.137" UserId="3792" Text="Yes this feature is offered, as for a remote option, I'm not sure.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I owned a Panasonic Viera TC-65AX800U, which was purchased in 2014.  It was a 65&quot; 4K LED model.  This option was located in a separate &quot;Format&quot; sub-menu, not the main picture options menu (contrast, brightness, etc).  I've owned many TV's over the last 10 years or so, and this is the only one that had it.  The others were LG, Visio, another Panasonic, and Samsung." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4013" RevisionGUID="fabe81c7-006e-4920-87f1-83482c3de481" CreationDate="2016-06-23T15:43:38.623" UserId="531" Text="They probably don't exist. Nearly *all* dual processor systems are xeon e5s or e7s using sockets like LGA2011 or LGA1567. Your pentiums use LGA 115x sockets. Since many chipset functions are rolled into the processor, you can't even get a chipset that would work here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only 'consumer' dual processor boards intel has made are s[kull trail][1], in 2008 and used a special processor that was using the same socket as contemporary xeons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, there's no low cost, dual socket board. You might just choose to use the budget on a more powerful single socket either with more cores, or better clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Skulltrail" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12479" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="0e33aefb-f3ef-479f-b8f6-874d51254c8a" CreationDate="2016-06-23T19:58:50.357" UserId="279" Comment="32" />
  <row Id="12483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4015" RevisionGUID="15672caf-963f-4f61-aeb6-4b7195b7caea" CreationDate="2016-06-24T08:41:52.820" UserId="3671" Text="I own a Samsung JU6050 which offers this feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However it does not have a button on the remote, but maybe I just don't know it has. This TV also offers smart features like youtube, which makes this option quite usable. However in my opinion the menu reacts quite slow, but it never crashed or so. It just needs some time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe the higher end models of Samsung offer this feature to and react faster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="70525ab7-0632-4a6c-840c-87dcf04e7704" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:05:55.300" UserId="378" Comment="added 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="I dropped my Nexus 5 because it was so large, it was perilous to handle with one hand (whenever a notification comes, swiping from the top is a pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone with these strong requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Shorter than 12 cm in length, the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run the latest Android version&#xD;&#xA;- LTE or better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16 GB of storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for a good rear-facing camera. Bonus for open spirit (à la Fairphone, Nexus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plastic is OK. If not commercially available, second-hand is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*([20% similar question][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/small-high-quality-android-phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12486" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="70525ab7-0632-4a6c-840c-87dcf04e7704" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:05:55.300" UserId="378" Comment="added 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="Small but performant phone, rootable to latest Android" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4017" RevisionGUID="03fb83b6-6dda-4032-878e-c3cb396bdcc2" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:11:03.160" UserId="3803" Text="I basically need a (arch)linux box to connect a touchscreen monitor(HDMI) to and run a single chrome/ium window in full-screen. So basically a kiosk app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The web-app has css animations and generous amounts of angular, so the graphics stack has to perform well (cpu too ofc), it being a visually focused app and all. This is actually for a 2nd touchscreen - I have the Apps backend hosted on an intel NUC (intel gpu) and powering one screen, I just couldn't get the two displays to work from the one NUC(or multiseat to work from one GPU - even though there are 2 HDMI outputs), so I figured a quick solution is to just get a cheap device to power the 2nd display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering a Rasberry Pi 3 - but I don't own one, so I'm not sure how well Chrome performs. There's also the intel's Compute Stick, but I don't know if that's any good, seems like some people got ubuntu to run on  it okay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other requirement is an ethernet port - and a case (as for rasberry pi 3). Thank you for any suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4017" RevisionGUID="03fb83b6-6dda-4032-878e-c3cb396bdcc2" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:11:03.160" UserId="3803" Text="A low-cost linux-capable pc that can run chrome/ium with hardware acceleration?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4017" RevisionGUID="03fb83b6-6dda-4032-878e-c3cb396bdcc2" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:11:03.160" UserId="3803" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4017" RevisionGUID="0db9fad3-f3a9-46d8-b943-2405880d61ed" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:20:42.550" UserId="3803" Comment="forgot to mention usb" Text="I basically need a (arch)linux box to connect a touchscreen monitor(HDMI) to and run a single chrome/ium window in full-screen. So basically a kiosk app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The web-app has css animations and generous amounts of angular, so the graphics stack has to perform well (cpu too ofc), it being a visually focused app and all. This is actually for a 2nd touchscreen - I have the Apps backend hosted on an intel NUC (intel gpu) and powering one screen, I just couldn't get the two displays to work from the one NUC(or multiseat to work from one GPU - even though there are 2 HDMI outputs), so I figured a quick solution is to just get a cheap device to power the 2nd display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering a Rasberry Pi 3 - but I don't own one, so I'm not sure how well Chrome performs. There's also the intel's Compute Stick, but I don't know if that's any good, seems like some people got ubuntu to run on  it okay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other requirement is an ethernet port, at least one USB port and a case (as for rasberry pi 3). Thank you for any suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4020" RevisionGUID="9362950c-e024-428b-ba05-46f025da7d3c" CreationDate="2016-06-24T17:04:47.860" UserId="3805" Text="I have pretty much no experience or knowledge about modern hardware, other than the past couple hours I've spent researching it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I built a rig online here:&#xD;&#xA;http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BwmgLD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping for any advice/recommendations.  Anything that I'm paying too much for, that I wouldn't notice a difference with a cheaper option.  Anything that I'm potentially bottlenecking my setup by going too cheap.  Any brand that I chose that is know for being unreliable.  Etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a couple notes on compatibility shown, it seems like they wouldn't be problems for me but if you think it will let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I especially know nothing about what makes a case good or bad, and what is necessary with the power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never put a rig together before, I do have experience soldering from my EE degree.  I don't even know if you have to solder stuff together, but if the case influences the ease of assembly let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a ergodox keyboard. I have heard a gaming mouse isn't really any better than a normal one.  And I plan to have a triple monitor set up eventually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to develop on linux, but I figured for gaming I'll need to get windows and maybe run linux on a vm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is about where I'd like it, maybe a bit cheaper if possible.  But working on this computer is going to be my livelihood so I can spend some more if necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And just any general advice for someone trying to build a rig for the first time would be great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4020" RevisionGUID="9362950c-e024-428b-ba05-46f025da7d3c" CreationDate="2016-06-24T17:04:47.860" UserId="3805" Text="Advice on building a gaming/web development rig" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4020" RevisionGUID="9362950c-e024-428b-ba05-46f025da7d3c" CreationDate="2016-06-24T17:04:47.860" UserId="3805" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4021" RevisionGUID="4e0693cc-0f31-4bca-bd64-f0d2188f6a30" CreationDate="2016-06-24T17:55:43.907" UserId="912" Text="Gaming generally benefits from faster single core but VM benefits from multiple cores. If you are planning to run less than 4 ish VMs then the i5 6500K will be a better choice (of course you will have to change your motherboard as well).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That SSD is cheap, a little too cheap. Go with some reputable brand to get performance and quality (such as Samsung, AData, Patriot, Sandisk, etc.). You could also take a look at having a smaller SSD for boot and a hard drive for your games and other files. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your motherboard comes with an ethernet port so unless you are going to use multiple IPs or aggregate the connection you don't need the ethernet card. Your motherboard is a mATX motherboard, which is smaller than the regular ATX size. This fits in your case but you lose the extra PCIe ports you could get from an ATX board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also want to take a look at a CPU cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (bare minimum) because the CPU runs quite hot and the stock cooler isn't that great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything else looks fine, GPU is powerful enough and PSU delivers enough wattage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12504" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4020" RevisionGUID="014baa5f-5721-49e5-b69a-b70e127ec6e9" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:13:41.343" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4022" RevisionGUID="316a173f-092b-446a-9422-774324a4d339" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:25:01.053" UserId="3790" Text="I'm converting my Playstation 4 to a SSD and I'm unsure which drive would be best for this. I don't have alot of knowledge about these drives and I couldn't find any reviews about them. Essentially, I'm looking for faster game boots and not really worried about storage. The 2 that I'm debating between are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&amp;item_id=080111&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&amp;item_id=094585&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some explanation as to which would be best is much appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TYIA " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12507" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4022" RevisionGUID="316a173f-092b-446a-9422-774324a4d339" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:25:01.053" UserId="3790" Text="Solid State Drive for PS4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12508" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4022" RevisionGUID="316a173f-092b-446a-9422-774324a4d339" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:25:01.053" UserId="3790" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4023" RevisionGUID="6c15078f-f868-47ec-b930-5122c543c7ea" CreationDate="2016-06-24T19:57:14.920" UserId="2478" Text="As far as raw speed is concerned, the **Samsung EVO** is the way to go. The drives themselves are very reliable and have the faster **read (540mb/s)** and **write (520mb/s)** speeds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I myself have a **Samsung EVO** and it works flawlessly in my **PC**. In my **PS4**... well I haven't tried it in there. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people claim its a **bad idea**, and that you won't see any difference in speed with the use of an **SSD** due to hardware limitations of the PS4; they claim that an **SSHD** is a better call for this sort of upgrade. You can read about that [here][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, this gentlemen [here][2] saw a **large difference** in speed with *some games* (check out the tables he created with load time comparisons). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My advice would be: if you see value in the upgrade to an SSD based on the sources I've provided, go for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were expecting an SSD to cut your load times in half across the board, either temper your expectations, or save some money and get yourself an SSHD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/2d2z85/has_anyone_used_the_new_samsung_850_pro_ssd_with/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2016-is-it-worth-upgrading-your-ps4-with-an-ssd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12514" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="4abcb3a2-c883-4ea3-96d5-9f27efb57983" CreationDate="2016-06-24T23:51:19.053" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4025" RevisionGUID="99ce18e7-5688-4cd3-91a8-670b2df5239b" CreationDate="2016-06-25T03:23:52.343" UserId="1388" Text="I need a router with OpenVPN. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking into a router with OpenWRT or DD-WRT support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router must be able to handle OpenVPN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have much money so I want the cheapest one possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12522" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4025" RevisionGUID="99ce18e7-5688-4cd3-91a8-670b2df5239b" CreationDate="2016-06-25T03:23:52.343" UserId="1388" Text="Router under 80$ with OpenVPN support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12523" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4025" RevisionGUID="99ce18e7-5688-4cd3-91a8-670b2df5239b" CreationDate="2016-06-25T03:23:52.343" UserId="1388" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4026" RevisionGUID="631d3778-fd0e-4c28-9379-852fc097cb92" CreationDate="2016-06-25T11:50:03.283" UserId="3810" Text="The market for laptops with 17 inch displays is small, but it's the only size that works for me when using the machine daily. I am looking for a **17&quot; laptop** with quality and performance comparable to premium 13&quot; machines, in particular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Very high build quality&#xD;&#xA;* Metal case&#xD;&#xA;* High quality keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* At least a recent Core i5 with 3.2 GHz&#xD;&#xA;* At least 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SSD with at least 256 GB&#xD;&#xA;* High DPI display&#xD;&#xA;* Must run Linux without requiring custom kernels or similar hacks&#xD;&#xA;* Bonus if the keyboard does **not** have a numpad, which is useless to me and only serves to move the main keys off-center&#xD;&#xA;* GPU performance is *not* critical as I have no interest in gaming or graphics work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The build quality part seems to be the most difficult to fulfill; as usual most laptops that are not built by Lenovo, HP or Apple feel like toys rather than heavy-duty tools designed for professional work.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4026" RevisionGUID="631d3778-fd0e-4c28-9379-852fc097cb92" CreationDate="2016-06-25T11:50:03.283" UserId="3810" Text="Premium 17&quot; Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4026" RevisionGUID="631d3778-fd0e-4c28-9379-852fc097cb92" CreationDate="2016-06-25T11:50:03.283" UserId="3810" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4027" RevisionGUID="58d93aab-162f-4b83-a5d1-c89a5e0dce79" CreationDate="2016-06-25T12:29:55.247" UserId="2480" Text="I recently got a new monitor the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/&quot;&gt;Asus ROG Swift PG279Q&lt;/a&gt;: 1440p, 144hz, with g-sync.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have i7-3770k, 32gb ram, with 2x GTX 670 powering it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is what gpu would be a good fit for this monitor.  I am a little unclear on how g-sync effects the requirements.  Should I be trying to get my fps 120+?&#xD;&#xA;I am getting ready to get a new gpu but I want to make sure I get one that does not leave me under-powered to take advantage of what my monitor offers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been a fan of Geforce for a while and with the 1080/1070 it is a choice between to two unless there would be a big reason I should wait for a 1080ti.  From the benchmarks on YouTube of The Witcher 3, it seems people get around ~60fps at 1440p with everything maxed.  While Ultra is not necessary I would like to be able to do a mix of high/ultra level settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently playing The Witcher 3: Blood and Wine and will be getting Dues EX: Mankind Divided when it is released, after those I will probably look into either Fall Out 4 or Rise of the Tomb Raider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would rather not spend $800+ on a gpu but if it will save me money a year later, I would rather buy 1 gpu then have to another for SLI 6-12 months later.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12531" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4027" RevisionGUID="58d93aab-162f-4b83-a5d1-c89a5e0dce79" CreationDate="2016-06-25T12:29:55.247" UserId="2480" Text="GPU for Asus ROG Swift PG279Q (1440p)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12532" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4027" RevisionGUID="58d93aab-162f-4b83-a5d1-c89a5e0dce79" CreationDate="2016-06-25T12:29:55.247" UserId="2480" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4028" RevisionGUID="175c4f87-310d-489e-8f02-a7fb3220ccd1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T13:19:56.150" UserId="912" Text="Since you have 2 x GTX 670 in SLI, getting a GTX 1070 will not yield much performance benefits. Running SLI is never as good as running a faster, more expensive single card so I would recommend you to get a GTX 1080 (should be enough for what you are doing) and SLI it later if for some reason it is not powerful enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="2ec01c81-88b3-48a9-9c9e-783864e796c5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:51:45.647" UserId="84" Text="My primary desktop PC is due for a refresh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have always built my own, but I might have reached the point where it's worth the extra ~$100 to buy a pre-built machine.  The biggest reason I haven't in the past is that I like my machines to run quiet &amp;ndash; not silent, just with no rattles or high-speed fans.  I ran my latest small tower with the side panel removed at all times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not an overclocker or gamer.  What I had in mind was something like the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **i7-6700** (seems to be the sweet spot for price-power-performance right now)&#xD;&#xA;* 16GB RAM expandable to 32GB&#xD;&#xA;* 80+ PSU&#xD;&#xA;* My current monitors are DVI, but I *eventually* want DP so that I can run 4k monitors.  (I don't know if this is integrated in any MBs.  If not then just a slot for a suitable graphics card when I decide to upgrade that side of things.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever I get I'll clean build O/S onto a SSD, and run a 7200rpm secondary drive for data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Given the &quot;quiet&quot; objective, and given that I can run the case wide open as an alternative to pricey quiet cooling systems, is there an obvious machine to buy, or should I just build again?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I should build, I don't want to spend a full day on Newegg picking the best components.  So:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Which MB? (I want the simplest, most established/rock-solid, compatible, not needing constant firmware updates.)&#xD;&#xA;1. Which case? (Smaller better, but in addition to MB needs room for the two HDDs, one optical drive, flash reader, USB ports, and graphics card if MB doesn't supply DP.)&#xD;&#xA;1. Which PSU?&#xD;&#xA;1. Which RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="2ec01c81-88b3-48a9-9c9e-783864e796c5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:51:45.647" UserId="84" Text="Quiet desktop PC refresh - Build or buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="2ec01c81-88b3-48a9-9c9e-783864e796c5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:51:45.647" UserId="84" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12546" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="c8b957ef-521f-4bac-ba67-e2b559849f31" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:57:35.773" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="2d3629be-2fbb-4c33-9f29-1c917e7b8b81" CreationDate="2016-06-26T01:28:04.380" UserId="84" Comment="Simplified and narrowed question" Text="My primary desktop PC is due for a refresh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have always built my own, but I might have reached the point where it's worth the extra ~$100 to buy a pre-built machine.  The biggest reason I haven't in the past is that I like my machines to run quiet &amp;ndash; not silent, just with no rattles or high-speed fans.  I ran my latest small tower with the side panel removed at all times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not an overclocker or gamer.  What I had in mind was something like the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **i7-6700** (seems to be the sweet spot for price-power-performance right now)&#xD;&#xA;* 16GB RAM expandable to 32GB&#xD;&#xA;* 80+ PSU&#xD;&#xA;* My current monitors are DVI, but I *eventually* want DP so that I can run 4k monitors.  (I don't know if this is integrated in any MBs.  If not then just a slot for a suitable graphics card when I decide to upgrade that side of things.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever I get I'll clean build O/S onto a SSD, and run a 7200rpm secondary drive for data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Given the &quot;quiet&quot; objective, and given that I can run the case wide open as an alternative to pricey quiet cooling systems, which machine should I buy?**  (Or should I just build again?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12548" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="2d3629be-2fbb-4c33-9f29-1c917e7b8b81" CreationDate="2016-06-26T01:28:04.380" UserId="84" Comment="Simplified and narrowed question" Text="Quiet desktop PC refresh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4033" RevisionGUID="032866ff-b5e3-41e4-8f2f-4c8faad3bb1a" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:32:03.660" UserId="3815" Text="I'm looking for a laptop. I plan on using it for watching videos and possibly some graphical design. This is why I'd like it to be a convertible. It's pretty inconvenient to do those things with a big keyboard in your way. Also, I need a minimum resolution of 1080p ( I wouldn't mind having higher but I don't have much to gain by going higher than that ). Lastly I'd like hardware compatible with hackintosh. I want to use hackintosh for development. I plan on using Xcode to compile any apps I make to ios and I'd like to be able to test programs I write on mac. Also I will probably end up writing code on this laptop. With these things in mind there's a good chance I will be doing a fair amount of compiling. Thats why I would like it like it to be quad-core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some features that I would like, but aren't totally necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no number pad ( it effects the shape of the keyboard and I think it looks ugly ),&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;touchscreen ( I'd use that for drawing ),&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An SSD would be nice for fast boot,&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not to flimsy ( a lot of laptops now are really thin and lightweight. I don't want something too different from that but I'd prefer something that doesn't feel flimsy. This isn't that necessary though. I'll take whatever I can get with all these requirements I've listed ;) )&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12554" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4033" RevisionGUID="032866ff-b5e3-41e4-8f2f-4c8faad3bb1a" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:32:03.660" UserId="3815" Text="Looking for a convertible laptop with some requirements that aren't that typical of a convertible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12555" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4033" RevisionGUID="032866ff-b5e3-41e4-8f2f-4c8faad3bb1a" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:32:03.660" UserId="3815" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12556" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="4034" RevisionGUID="604bb675-c696-4485-8cd5-2b8c8bbf0898" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:34:43.093" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1093579/what-do-i-need-to-look-at-to-when-getting-a-wifi-adaptor-to-get-my-ubuntu-deskto" />
  <row Id="12557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4034" RevisionGUID="5b5d22ad-cd9b-485e-aa01-cfa2c94ccfec" CreationDate="2016-06-26T00:33:40.993" UserId="3828" UserDisplayName="Hoopes" Text="I have a ubuntu desktop that has always connected to the network via ethernet. It's simple - `eth0` is there in `ifconfig`, I run `dhclient eth0`, and I'm good to go. It's been this way for ages. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to wiring constraints, I need to switch over to using wifi. There is a *lot* of information via google, wikipedia, et al about what is possible, which chipsets are supported, which drivers support which chipsets, and tables showing a cross-section of all of that. However, today I'm looking for a recommendation of &quot;easiest thing to plug into your computer, and have wifi0 (or whatever) in ifconfig&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind if it's PCI or USB - I was hoping for someone to tell me &quot;Yeah, just buy this thing, plug it in, and use this program to find the AP and connect. I did it last week, and it was simple.&quot;. Sorry for such a rudimentary question - I've been clinging to the ethernet cable as long as I could. I knew this day would come.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points for it working when installing ubuntu (or any linux distro) in the installer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12558" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4034" RevisionGUID="5b5d22ad-cd9b-485e-aa01-cfa2c94ccfec" CreationDate="2016-06-26T00:33:40.993" UserId="3828" UserDisplayName="Hoopes" Text="What do I need to look at to when getting a wifi adaptor to get my ubuntu desktop on wifi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12559" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4034" RevisionGUID="5b5d22ad-cd9b-485e-aa01-cfa2c94ccfec" CreationDate="2016-06-26T00:33:40.993" UserId="3828" UserDisplayName="Hoopes" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4036" RevisionGUID="3fc04813-c48b-4791-9078-3c9d6b5a4f87" CreationDate="2016-06-26T03:41:39.943" UserId="531" Text="Most modern wifi adaptors should work with little issues. My *goto* spare 'it will certainly work' wifi adaptor's a generic no brand 802.11 n nano adaptor - a few dozen companies make em. They universally use the same, standard ralink chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the [specific one I have][1], and if you want a branded one Edimax's riff on the product is [certain to work][2]. Plug it in, reboot and it should be detected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They work with most common linux distros, there's support in kernel for ubuntu and fedora at the very least. They're also *crazy* cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However* these only support the 'last gen' 802.11n standard, at the lowest speed possible. They also only support the more common 2.4 ghz, which is sometimes congested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will *certainly* work with minimal configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dx.com/p/dx-original-ultra-mini-usb-2-0-802-11n-b-g-150mbps-wi-fi-wlan-wireless-network-adapter-black-252716&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12571" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4032" RevisionGUID="a8ab24a6-f611-4f92-a6bf-163840326235" CreationDate="2016-06-26T08:27:42.830" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:84,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;feetwet&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4039" RevisionGUID="982f5468-83c7-49bb-b40b-1b5c78f8632b" CreationDate="2016-06-26T12:51:11.473" UserId="912" Text="Use a tower styled CPU cooler (such as the Hyper 212 Evo) with some quiet fans running at very low RPMs (I recommend the Noctua NF-F12).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a GPU that has the fans completely OFF when under a certain temperature (such as the ASUS Strix line). Make sure your case has good airflow to ensure the GPU fans almost never run (i.e. place quiet fans for intake at the front and exhaust at the back).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a power supply with the fans completely OFF when under a certain temperature (I recommend Corsair AX, TX, HX, or RM series PSUs). Similarly, you must also guarantee good airflow in your case or the fan on the PSU will start spinning. Higher efficiency PSUs will create less heat (which equals less cooling required) and all PSUs are most efficient at around 50% load." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12576" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="a90790d1-ed8d-4f5c-99e9-c0e627d39538" CreationDate="2016-06-26T13:01:04.637" UserId="3788" Text="I am looking for an internal PCIe WWAN (UMTS or LTE) card that will work flawlessly with Linux (specifically Ubuntu). My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A internal device that I don't have to plug in before I can use it.&#xD;&#xA;2. All software (drivers etc.) available as packages from the standard repos&#xD;&#xA;3. Reliability, no major stability issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used a Huawei USB stick as well as an Option ExpressPort adapter, both of which were plug-and-play and worked reliably – were it not for the fact that they are additional external devices to carry around, violating #1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also tried two PCIe cards: one is a HP un2300 (GOBI 2000), which will not be recognized without [providing a firmware blob][2] (which needs to be extracted from the Windows driver package and placed somewhere in the filesystem) – which is a major hack operation and thus violates #2 (and still doesn't work after the operation, thus also violating #3). The other is an Ericsson F5521gw, which is recognized instantly and requires no more than entering basic network parameters to connect – but will at some point go into sleep mode and never wake up again, thus violating #3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu has a list at https://wiki.ubuntu.com/NetworkManager/Hardware/3G, but it appears somewhat unclear as to what works out of the box and what requires hacking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC Engines has a short list of PCIe 3G modems supported by their hardware, which (among others) runs various flavors of Linux, but no information on support level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pfSense has a [list][1] of 3G/4G modems known to work. As pfSense is BSD-based, the list may be of limited relevance to Linux – though devices on the list are likely to have a free driver for a non-Windows OS, which in turn makes it likely that a Linux driver is also available for these devices (or will be at some point). On the other hand, the HP un2300 is also on the list, despite the requirement to download a firmware blob, just like its successor, the un2400 (GOBI 2000).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Does anyone know of PCIe UMTS adapters known to work with Ubuntu or Debian, or have any other way of figuring out whether I can expect a given device to work with Ubuntu (other than by trying it out)?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/Known_Working_3G-4G_Modems&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/456923/umts-hsdpa-data-sim-card-on-ubuntu-14-04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12577" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="a90790d1-ed8d-4f5c-99e9-c0e627d39538" CreationDate="2016-06-26T13:01:04.637" UserId="3788" Text="PCIe WWAN adapters known to work with Linux out of the box" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12578" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="a90790d1-ed8d-4f5c-99e9-c0e627d39538" CreationDate="2016-06-26T13:01:04.637" UserId="3788" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1186" RevisionGUID="032a04b9-41ca-4188-aab8-3762d71c1135" CreationDate="2016-06-26T14:18:54.097" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="Integrated GPU's will never be as good as a dedicated graphics card because of the space constraint: when the GPU is integrated with the CPU, there is far less space for the GPU to fit into, so not as much graphics processing power can fit in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the HD 4600 is two generations above what I have in my laptop, the HD 4400. My graphics card is suitable for playing old games (~7 years) on high settings, or for playing games that aren't graphics-intensive on OK settings. It will *not* play modern games like Fallout 4, Just Cause 3 or GTA V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking into building a dedicated gaming platform, I would highly recommend that you get a dedicated graphics card. If you want to future-proof your system, get something top of the range. If you want a balance between future proofing and cost, I'd recommend something like the Nvidia GTX 970 or the AMD R9-280." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4041" RevisionGUID="75112eb5-3579-4cd7-a944-4acda552af2b" CreationDate="2016-06-26T14:43:24.057" UserId="3819" Text="I'd like to setup a home server with GPU capabilities. I want to run virtual servers on it that would allow my group members to connect to their virtual machines and run scientific calculations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware would you recommend? My budget is up to $2,000." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12581" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4041" RevisionGUID="75112eb5-3579-4cd7-a944-4acda552af2b" CreationDate="2016-06-26T14:43:24.057" UserId="3819" Text="Home budget GPU server for scientific calculations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12582" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4041" RevisionGUID="75112eb5-3579-4cd7-a944-4acda552af2b" CreationDate="2016-06-26T14:43:24.057" UserId="3819" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12583" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2365" RevisionGUID="cc674108-c129-4ef5-ba34-3e90c1ccf986" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:34:29.263" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4042" RevisionGUID="a409f538-f89b-4762-a8af-b05ef721c58c" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:37:58.143" UserId="84" Text="I'm adding a 7200rpm 3TB data drive to my desktop.  I have a long list of drives with 64MB cache and SATA-3 connectors, but what I really want to know is which will be quiet &amp;ndash; in particular the read/write crane movement.  I've had everything from drives that sound from the other side of the room like marbles rattling around in a cement mixer to drives so quiet that I have to press my head against the case to hear that the heads are moving.  Since there are a large number of makes and models of drives that satisfy my performance specs, how can I select ones that are likely to have ***quiet* R/W performance**?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4042" RevisionGUID="a409f538-f89b-4762-a8af-b05ef721c58c" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:37:58.143" UserId="84" Text="Quiet 7200rpm hard drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12586" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4042" RevisionGUID="a409f538-f89b-4762-a8af-b05ef721c58c" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:37:58.143" UserId="84" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;spinning-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4043" RevisionGUID="d6918183-856c-4ff8-9f81-57387eb28f1b" CreationDate="2016-06-26T18:01:46.843" UserId="912" Text="The Nvidia Quadro M5000 is a workstation grade GPU. It uses the same chip as the Titan X (a consumer grade card that costs around $1000) so it will perform about the same as the Titan X. The Quadro line is fully designed, manufactured and tested by Nvidia so it has very good compatibility with professional software. It costs around $2500 which is slightly over your budget but is a card you should look at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Nvidia Quadro M4000 is a tier below the M5000. It uses the same chip as the GTX 970 (which is around $350). It costs round $1000. If you got this I would recommend you to get 2 of them so you can run them independently and split the VMs between these two cards. This can be used as long as there is not single VM that require a insane amount of processing power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also choose to use the consumer line of GPUs, I recommend getting 2 x Titan X if you need the extra VRAM but I would recommend 2 x GTX 1080 otherwise. You can run these in SLI if you want them to act as a single faster card or run them independently (I recommend this way).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want more performance, then go with the consumer GPUs. If you care more about stability and comparability, then go with the Quadro." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12588" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4041" RevisionGUID="9190deac-8272-4c5c-a7aa-529d218efb28" CreationDate="2016-06-26T18:05:42.717" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4046" RevisionGUID="e7d2631f-7ef8-4a54-97b3-a9977fdc048f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T09:14:50.050" UserId="3826" Text="I'm looking for a Kindle-style reader device which supports offline RSS reading, either built-in or via a third-party app. It would ideally be a standard RSS reader app running on the device directly, but failing that, it could be a cloud-based solution that would push regular digests/periodicals to the device. I wouldn't want anything requiring cables and syncing to a PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm surprised that I've been able to find a single app or service for any such device, but maybe I overlooked one in my research." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4046" RevisionGUID="e7d2631f-7ef8-4a54-97b3-a9977fdc048f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T09:14:50.050" UserId="3826" Text="E-Ink/E-Paper device with offline RSS reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4046" RevisionGUID="e7d2631f-7ef8-4a54-97b3-a9977fdc048f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T09:14:50.050" UserId="3826" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12603" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2207" RevisionGUID="b4cfce98-90d5-4cf4-9952-4476f067de63" CreationDate="2016-06-27T13:48:55.363" UserId="1974" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hdtv&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4047" RevisionGUID="5dc17ce2-fd93-4f43-822b-3b35c3a9929f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:18:10.933" UserId="73" Text="I've been trying to find and purchase a monitor that has more than 500 nits, but that seems to be about where normal monitors top out at. I've looked a little bit at outdoor monitors and displays, but those tend to have price ranges that are out of this world for consumers and further, one that I bought, I found only has a brightness of 500 nits (advertised). The difference between the indoor and outdoor monitors appears to be the anti-reflection coating and weatherproofing done on them. Neither of these things do I really need when I just want a super bright monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a monitor with **higher than** 500 nits? Also, as a soft boarder, under $1000 dollars would be ideal." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12605" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4047" RevisionGUID="5dc17ce2-fd93-4f43-822b-3b35c3a9929f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:18:10.933" UserId="73" Text="What are some high brightness monitors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12606" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4047" RevisionGUID="5dc17ce2-fd93-4f43-822b-3b35c3a9929f" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:18:10.933" UserId="73" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4049" RevisionGUID="a20ea69c-f846-4f8b-9b04-a284813f48ff" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:40:47.563" UserId="2478" Text="It's a bit tough finding exact decibel ratings on different hard drives, in general the dbA is not listed under the hard drive's specifications. But I did find [one site][1] where sound measurements were taken. The only issue is, it may be a little outdated (October 2014 was it's last update). But, if we assume that the manufacturers and model types are similar in sound to the ones on this page, it seems that Seagate Barracuda's make the least noise. There are also some other options if we go by the chart I linked to above, so if the Barracuda isn't a good fit, you could go by some of the other ones listed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, I also did find some HDD &quot;silencers&quot; which would effectively allow you to use any HDD you'd like, although it would take a little bit more fuss. I found a very nice looking one [here][2]. There are also other dampeners from the same site [here][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article29-page2.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.acousticpc.com/silenx_hard_drive_silencer.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.acousticpc.com/quiet_hard_drive_enclosures.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4050" RevisionGUID="ecc91e0a-eecf-4d1f-a51b-6e28f627215b" CreationDate="2016-06-27T19:20:30.523" UserDisplayName="user3725" Text="You're going to want a raspberry pi or arduino to do this. I found this website &#xD;&#xA;https://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/projects/raspberrypi/tutorials/temperature/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;they take a 35$ raspberry pi, wire in a 5$ sensor and they were able to record temp readings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Raspberry pi can connect to your network using wifi or ethernet. There are simple scripts that would tell your pi to text you every hour the current temp.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I hope this suggestion fits the bill, or at least leads in the right direction.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4052" RevisionGUID="92054da9-014a-4ff9-9b16-a6ad0dcdb19c" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:01:42.510" UserId="3829" Text="All of [GL.iNet][1] routers are based on OpenWRT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get the [GL-AR150][2] for $25 which is a pretty nice device with 16MB Flash ROM, 64MB RAM and 1 USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, you could go for some cheap TP-LINK routers like TL-WR741N or TL-WR841N which have OpenWRT support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gl-inet.com/products/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gl-inet.com/ar150/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4053" RevisionGUID="751ef1b5-3651-4074-a16c-29969db692cf" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:19:24.163" UserId="3829" Text="The MOTO E 2015 (2nd edition) is a nice device with a 4.5&quot;. Although the stock ROM is Android 5.1.1 you can currently install the latest CyanogenMod on it, which is based on Android 6.0.1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, the LTE version of this phone costs USD$ 83 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see a comparison of its sice with Nexus 5 [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phonearena.com/phones/size/Google-Nexus-5,Motorola-Moto-E-2015/phones/8148,9252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4053" RevisionGUID="7bd38438-a62e-49cf-a3c9-a1ab4d71d9cb" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:39:38.853" UserId="3829" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="The MOTO E 2015 (2nd edition) is a nice device with a 4.5&quot; screen. Although the stock ROM is Android 5.1.1 you can currently install the latest CyanogenMod on it, which is based on Android 6.0.1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, the LTE version of this phone costs USD$ 83 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see a comparison of its sice with Nexus 5 [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phonearena.com/phones/size/Google-Nexus-5,Motorola-Moto-E-2015/phones/8148,9252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4054" RevisionGUID="94d918b1-ed33-4a4d-9a73-9f40b0efb605" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:13:42.433" UserId="3832" Text="I want to build a low power relatively cheep NAS that can hold at least two drives. I want to go the DIY route since I'm blind and would rather do everything from the command-line instead of relying on a third party GUI that may or may not be accessible. What would good hardware be for this? All the single board computers I've found appear to have tiehr one or no SATA ports. I'd prefer a pre-built system that only requires hard drives but can build a computer from scratch if required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4054" RevisionGUID="94d918b1-ed33-4a4d-9a73-9f40b0efb605" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:13:42.433" UserId="3832" Text="Low power computer with at least two SATA ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12620" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4054" RevisionGUID="94d918b1-ed33-4a4d-9a73-9f40b0efb605" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:13:42.433" UserId="3832" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12621" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4054" RevisionGUID="19ea3dc3-4413-425d-9cd7-b2bf453a46b1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T23:26:33.120" UserId="8" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I want to build a low power relatively cheep NAS that can hold at least two drives. I want to go the DIY route since I'm blind and would rather do everything from the command-line instead of relying on a third party GUI that may or may not be accessible. What would good hardware be for this? All the single board computers I've found appear to have either one or no SATA ports. I'd prefer a pre-built system that only requires hard drives but can build a computer from scratch if required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12625" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4053" RevisionGUID="d18b9e20-97c4-4db2-b5dc-d4c3a00796d6" CreationDate="2016-06-28T03:10:28.767" UserId="378" Comment="Included size info" Text="The MOTO E 2015 (2nd edition) is a nice device with a 4.5&quot; screen. Although the stock ROM is Android 5.1.1 you can currently install the latest CyanogenMod on it, which is based on Android 6.0.1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, the LTE version of this phone costs USD$ 83 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see a comparison of its size with Nexus 5 [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;129.8 * 66.8 * 12.2 mm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.phonearena.com/phones/size/Google-Nexus-5,Motorola-Moto-E-2015/phones/8148,9252" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12626" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4053" RevisionGUID="d18b9e20-97c4-4db2-b5dc-d4c3a00796d6" CreationDate="2016-06-28T03:10:28.767" Comment="Proposed by 378 approved by 3829 edit id of 472" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12627" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2608" RevisionGUID="e95d4af0-2747-4c0f-a4aa-6061a7dab548" CreationDate="2016-06-28T07:51:27.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4056" RevisionGUID="25912fc9-eef1-481c-bae6-ec5f4969b588" CreationDate="2016-06-28T12:47:49.977" UserId="3833" Text="I was willing to buy a digital frame for my photos but, after some research and seeing the prices, I'm starting to think that a tablet under 100 USD should perform much better than the digital frames available (i.e, I've read many people complaining about the software, the quality of display, the resolution, the inconvenience of not having a USB port). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My intention is to spend between 50 and 100 USD for a device that has HD display and that can be easily put into shuffle mode for pictures or put to sleep at night. It would be awesome if it had a SD/USB slot. Ideally, it wouldn't mess with the resolution commonly used with smartphones/digital cameras. My guess is that Android devices would be more complete/versatile than closed, end product, digital portraits, am I correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12634" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4056" RevisionGUID="25912fc9-eef1-481c-bae6-ec5f4969b588" CreationDate="2016-06-28T12:47:49.977" UserId="3833" Text="Tablet for using as a digital frame" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12635" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4056" RevisionGUID="25912fc9-eef1-481c-bae6-ec5f4969b588" CreationDate="2016-06-28T12:47:49.977" UserId="3833" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="97b62b94-b214-4c03-a835-68aa27c6d626" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:42:33.220" UserId="1364" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="**C'mon, you can't have a 3.5 inch Android phone.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturers are trying to own the market by making phones with larger screen size(&gt;5.0&quot;). Manufacturers care less about the compactness of the phone. It is quite difficult to find phones with a smaller display. As of now there are no new stock Android phones, but there are few other options if you are willing to sacrifice few aspects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1: The Moto G Generation 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compact and small at 4.7in and has a brilliant display. It is very comfortable to hold and single-handed operation is a zing. The best part is that it runs **stock Android** out of the box and had had received upgrade to Android 5.1.1..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**:- I'd say it's the perfect bang for the buck. The battery is average; it's not great nor is it bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2: The J series by Samsung**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the J2 as it is the smallest of the J series at 4.7in with doable specs and an sAMOLED display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**: It is not an iPhone killer clearly and runs Touch Wiz which is, according to me, is unrefined and hogs a lot of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to forget the fact that you want an Android phone, then I'd suggest you go for the new iPhone 6S. If you still want to have an Android phone, by sacrificing compactness you can go for the Moto Turbo (1 or 2 or the new Z variant) or the Samsung flagship killers The galaxy S7 and The galaxy Note 5 (you can always flash them to stock Android or use custom launchers)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4057" RevisionGUID="cfa13852-b0c9-4247-8441-34b5a7b8ee0d" CreationDate="2016-06-29T05:02:14.583" UserId="3838" Text="I don't have the reputation to make this a comment, but I can find at least one 2.5 inch 3TB (and 4TB) HDD: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000LM016/dp/B01CHYIEXG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4057" RevisionGUID="dc7fd500-daf4-4377-bbf7-e27be14e6300" CreationDate="2016-06-29T05:07:46.617" UserId="3838" Comment="added 456 characters in body" Text="I don't have the reputation to make this a comment, but I can find at least one 2.5 inch 3TB (and 4TB) HDD: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000LM016/dp/B01CHYIEXG . For your computer, I would recommend a motherboard with an embedded processor, such as the Celeron J-1900 which has a thermal design power of only 10 watts. You could save money on your power supply by getting a thin-mini ITX form-factor motherboard, in which an external power supply like ones seen in laptops plugs into the IO shield and is distributed through the motherboard. These usually have PCI-E slots into which you can plug a cheap RAID card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4058" RevisionGUID="c555902b-16b5-48c4-9b61-f5567c30a252" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:08:50.403" UserId="3841" Text="I want to build a new PC for myself and have a question about my graphics-card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know which to buy:&#xD;&#xA;1x Asus ROG Nvidia GTX 1080&#xD;&#xA;2x MSI Nvidia GTX 970 (+1x SLI-Bridge)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be most effective and also the best for the future, because I want to use this computer for a longer time (because I dont want to spend so much money every 2 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; **Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Please explain your statement (why you think XY is better then AB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12642" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4058" RevisionGUID="c555902b-16b5-48c4-9b61-f5567c30a252" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:08:50.403" UserId="3841" Text="One GTX 1080 or 2 GTX 970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12643" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4058" RevisionGUID="c555902b-16b5-48c4-9b61-f5567c30a252" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:08:50.403" UserId="3841" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12644" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4058" RevisionGUID="b9d7d874-cb87-4bce-961e-d45864eebb13" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:17:30.947" UserId="3841" Comment="edited title" Text="1x GTX 1080 or 2x GTX 970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4059" RevisionGUID="c2bdef2d-af20-4cce-97c2-469e4daff991" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:30:12.760" UserId="2478" Text="While purchasing two cards may **seem gnarly**, it really **wouldn't be better** than a **single 1080**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, you won't have to fuss around with getting **SLI** to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, some games **do not even support SLI properly**. Now this may **not happen often**, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know *most* games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there **are some compatibility issues** with certain games...) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Third, **power consumption**. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fourth, **resale value**. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fifth, as far as numbers go, you're looking at about **20 percent more performance** out of the 1080 for less work and you **don't have to worry** about all of **issues** that I've mentioned. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...Now say... you want to run two ***980 TI's in SLI***... I'd have to reconsider my answer entirely at that point! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you want one takeaway: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Two 970's running in SLI is not better than one 1080.*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12646" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="82b6c909-1ace-4c60-912b-7660fb3733bf" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:25:19.107" UserId="3842" Text="I wanted to build a home NAS server (running FreeBSD and ZFS). I used the Intel Pentium Processor G2020T (22 nm, Processor Base Frequency @2.5 GHz) with the hope that it would have at 22nm performance equivalent to its i-Family brothers for non-graphics/gaming applications. The machine also got a respectable motherboard and 8GB DDR3 RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know how such a mcahine would fare (if at all) as a gaming machine (under MS Windows) IF I would add a powerful graphics card, even though the CPU only has the Intel HD Graphics Processor. In other words can a good Video card compensate for the graphics subsystem that is lacking from the processor? What would be a good choice for such a video card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks and apologies if any of my questions are incorrect for lack of deeper knowledge in the field.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12647" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="82b6c909-1ace-4c60-912b-7660fb3733bf" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:25:19.107" UserId="3842" Text="Possible to make gaming machine just with Intel Pentium Processor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12648" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="82b6c909-1ace-4c60-912b-7660fb3733bf" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:25:19.107" UserId="3842" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12649" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="6a4b38a5-9225-4200-bfd5-4785ddc581a4" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:46:22.353" UserId="3842" Comment="edited body" Text="I wanted to build a home NAS server (running FreeBSD and ZFS). I used the Intel Pentium Processor G2020T (22 nm, Processor Base Frequency @2.5 GHz) with the hope that it would have at 22nm performance equivalent to its i-Family brothers for non-graphics/gaming applications. The machine also got a respectable motherboard and 8GB DDR3 RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know how such a machine would fare (if at all) as a gaming machine (under MS Windows) IF I would add a powerful graphics card, even though the CPU only has the Intel HD Graphics Processor. In other words can a good Video card compensate for the graphics subsystem that is lacking from the processor? What would be a good choice for such a video card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks and apologies if any of my questions are incorrect for lack of deeper knowledge in the field.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12651" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4061" RevisionGUID="2f39c27c-fa33-4d75-9a0c-2bb2be1c388b" CreationDate="2016-06-29T17:10:58.467" UserId="3836" Text="This CPU is going to enable you to play low and midrange games well, including titles like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- League of Legends&#xD;&#xA;- DOTA 2&#xD;&#xA;- CS:GO&#xD;&#xA;- Portal 2&#xD;&#xA;- Borderlands 2&#xD;&#xA;- Rocket League&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But not titles like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Battlefield 4&#xD;&#xA;- Crysis 3&#xD;&#xA;- Civilization V (late-game)&#xD;&#xA;- Assassin's Creed: Black Flag&#xD;&#xA;- Satellite Reign&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because low and midrange games USUALLY don't require beefy GPUs either, it would be safe to combine this CPU with a GPU like the R7 360, GTX 750 ti, or similar. With these cards installed, the Intel HD graphics chip will be either disabled or used only to support additional monitors (and a precious few GPU-accelerated tasks, where its contribution will be miniscule in comparison to the dGPU's). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not try to game on it WHILE it was serving as a FreeNAS sever." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="f72fa8dd-32f5-4d81-ac60-bb16661a81f9" CreationDate="2016-06-29T17:41:15.790" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="12656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4063" RevisionGUID="cde96147-b4cf-4934-951f-480ac678c798" CreationDate="2016-06-29T21:40:43.383" UserId="273" Text="The best notebook I could find in this price-range with your requirements is probably the **Lenovo 700Y (17-inch) series**. While I don't own, it seems to fit your requirements quite well, as a medium- to high-end gamer laptop.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo][1]; [NotebookCheck][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's go through the list of your requirements, shall we?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As I said, an SSD is a must. [...], so we'll say atleast 250 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Obviously, more would be nice, though it's not necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to Lenovo's website there are options for 256GB or 512GB SSD and for 1TB HDD with 128GB SSD, so you're covered here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A 6th-gen intel quad-core CPU. I'd like an I7 or higher, but I could&#xD;&#xA;&gt; settle for an i5, provided it was still new, quad-core, and fairly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Y700 series only runs 45W Intel Core i-s, which are all (powerful) quad-core CPUs based on Skylake architecture. More concretely chances are you will be getting in [i7-6700HQ][3] or an [i5-6300HQ][4] (rarer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't do anything demanding on the GPU, so as long as I can plug an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; external 1080p monitor into it, that's good enough for me. Bonus&#xD;&#xA;&gt; points if I can plug a second one in. (Though I might need a docking&#xD;&#xA;&gt; station at that point)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can at least plug-in one monitor via [HDMI][5] and can maybe connect a second via wireless [Miracast][6], which the laptop _should_ support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't need an insane amount of RAM. [...] So 8&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GB would probably be enough. (Although I'm certainly not against&#xD;&#xA;&gt; having more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Y700 series has at least 8GB of RAM and you can also find models with 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; This probably goes without saying, but it should have an 1/8th inch&#xD;&#xA;&gt; headphone output and several USB 3 outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has that headphone output and two USB-3.0 ports and one USB-2.0 port. You may want to consider buying an USB-3.0 hub if you need more. (These numbers are fairly common for laptops nowadays sadly). The HW recommendation for this can be found [here][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now for your preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for a docking station, if I want to upgrade peripherals down&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the road.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly there seems to be no proprietary connector for this model, however standard USB 3.0 docking stations probably can do the trick here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [...]An&#xD;&#xA;&gt; onboard ethernet cable would be really really nice. I could use an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; adaptor or a docking station, but using onboard ethernet would be a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; lot more convenient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, sadly it looks like Ethernet on the laptop seems to be less of a thing nowadays than it used to be (due to the improved WLAN technology), but you can still get yourself a small little USB-3.0-Ethernet connector (Anker also has those).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm not really a laptop connisuier, so there are a lot of things that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I either don't really care about or don't know how to quantifiy. For&#xD;&#xA;&gt; example, I have no idea what a good-battery life would be. I'd like a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; good battery-life, but I don't commute, or have any reason to need a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; really good one. I also couldn't tell a good one from a bad one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo claims 4-5 hours for this one, but chances are you'll have to live with 2-3 hours there if you actually do stuff with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm also not super picky when it comes to things like screen size or&#xD;&#xA;&gt; weight. (Also don't know how to quantify) I don't want something on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; either extreme (Such as a chromebook or a giant luggable). A 1080p&#xD;&#xA;&gt; display (or higher if I can get it at this price) would be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are variants of the Y700 series for 15&quot; and for 17&quot; (this answer is about the 17&quot; ones), but at least the 17&quot; ones all do feature 1080p screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I will be able to use the laptop on my own time, so a gpu (or&#xD;&#xA;&gt; integrated graphics) strong enough for very light gaming would be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; nice. I already have a computer that can handle pretty much any game,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; so this is certainly not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Y700s are originally intended as gamer laptops, so this should be not so much of a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Good linux support would also be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think it has extraordinary Linux support, but it should do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally for your neutral points:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; While looking around on my own, I found that lot's of newer laptops in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this price range have touchscreens. I am almost completely neutral on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; a touchscreen. If it could be cheaper without, I'd go with the cheaper&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one. If they're the same price, I guess I'd go for the touchscreen. I&#xD;&#xA;&gt; probably wouldn't end up using it very much though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Y700 series does not feature touch-screens, as a gaming laptop series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't really care which version of windows it comes with. It would&#xD;&#xA;&gt; be nice if it comes with 7 already installed, but if it comes with 8&#xD;&#xA;&gt; or 10, I'll just reinstall 7 anyway. (I already have a license and a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CD and all that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with Windows 10 64-bit pre-installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't really care about an optical drive (or lack thereof)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't exactly tell, but at least some models don't feature optical drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/y700-series/y700-17-inch/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Ideapad-Y700-17ISK-80Q0-Notebook-Review.156808.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88967/Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_50-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88959/Intel-Core-i5-6300HQ-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miracast&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/345/273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="e9bb599f-73ec-417a-9323-cf49eb3a0c38" CreationDate="2016-06-29T22:10:11.883" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4058" RevisionGUID="4d62bbf7-4886-4e6c-b439-9820716d9018" CreationDate="2016-06-29T22:10:42.947" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 18 characters in body" Text="I want to build a new PC for myself and have a question about my graphics-card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know which to buy:&#xD;&#xA;1x Asus ROG Nvidia GTX 1080&#xD;&#xA;2x MSI Nvidia GTX 970 (+1x SLI-Bridge)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be most effective and also the best for the future, because I want to use this computer for a longer time (because I dont want to spend so much money every 2 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please explain your statement (why you think XY is better then AB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="bddcf369-a63e-47ee-ab1c-cd74ed69e5b3" CreationDate="2016-06-30T09:26:20.207" UserId="279" Comment="32" />
  <row Id="12668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4065" RevisionGUID="7d9f2ba5-1fdf-4ade-a9a5-a4de86273f4b" CreationDate="2016-06-30T09:37:28.207" UserId="674" Text="With the new graphics card generation our PCs should be prepared for 4k gaming with HDR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what about monitors? Are there any available that you can recommend? I've been searching and couldn't find a single one that explicitly supports HDR and has Display Port 1.4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional question if it's not off-topic: What are the features I have to look for that indicate that a monitor supports 4k HDR? Maybe I've just been searching under the wrong assumptions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12669" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4065" RevisionGUID="7d9f2ba5-1fdf-4ade-a9a5-a4de86273f4b" CreationDate="2016-06-30T09:37:28.207" UserId="674" Text="Monitor for HDR 4k Gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12670" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4065" RevisionGUID="7d9f2ba5-1fdf-4ade-a9a5-a4de86273f4b" CreationDate="2016-06-30T09:37:28.207" UserId="674" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4066" RevisionGUID="945357a7-ed86-4579-94eb-9ee05238d493" CreationDate="2016-06-30T12:34:52.763" UserId="2478" Text="**HDR** has been around for a while now but the technology is **still in its infancy**. You will see **HDR TV's**, but **monitors** are much **harder to come by**. Also, there is **relatively little HDR content**. *It's going to be a rough transition, as sRGB is the standard, and until the conversion is made simple, or a shift is made to start producing content in this format, you won't see much in HDR.*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That bit in italics is more of an opinion. But anyway, here are the facts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDR screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - use **10 bit** per channel *instead* of **8 bit**. &#xD;&#xA; - are about **4 times brighter** than current screens&#xD;&#xA; - use the **Rec.2020** instead of **sRGB** or **Rec.709**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now you **can find 4K monitors**, but they **do not support** the wide color gamut which **HDR** allows. You will **not see** HDR in monitors until **later next year** at the earliest is **my guess** based on what we've seen so far. AMD is still busy [showing off the tech][1], and its going to take some serious paradigm shifting for everything to support HDR. It's a whole new playing field in a sense, and **EVERYTHING** (your OS, the way content is produced, the way your games are created) **will have to make the shift to HDR.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The long and short of it, you're going to have to **wait until at least 2017** to see **4K HDR Monitors** at the consumer level (you can buy the TV's now), and you're going to be waiting even longer for content that **properly** utilizes **HDR technology**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://wccftech.com/amd-demoes-hdr-technology-ces-2016/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4059" RevisionGUID="fd87e1bc-83ab-456e-bf2b-6f7949c90117" CreationDate="2016-06-30T15:26:20.087" UserId="2478" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="While purchasing two cards may **seem gnarly**, it really **wouldn't be better** than a **single 1080**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, you won't have to fuss around with getting **SLI** to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, some games **do not even support SLI properly**. Now this may **not happen often**, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know *most* games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there **are some compatibility issues** with certain games...) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Third, **power consumption**. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fourth, **resale value**. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fifth, as far as numbers go, you're looking at about **20 percent more performance** out of the 1080 for less work and you **don't have to worry** about all of **issues** that I've mentioned. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...Now say... you want to run two ***980 TI's in SLI***... I'd have to reconsider my answer entirely at that point! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you want one takeaway: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Two 970's running in SLI are not better than one 1080.*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="5dbe8684-a4fe-405f-b388-f34e5a09b4e2" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:30:58.963" UserId="3851" Text="I wanted to buy a second Cherry G80-3000LQCDE-2 keyboard for the workplace because I have been very comfortable using it at home for years. However I noticed that it is not available any more, at least in Germany. Can someone shed light on why it was discontinued and what similar (preferably Cherry) keyboard I can get instead? It should be mechanical, affordable, with pressure point (not linear) switches and not too loud. Not bells and whistles, just a keyboard with German layout." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="5dbe8684-a4fe-405f-b388-f34e5a09b4e2" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:30:58.963" UserId="3851" Text="Successor for Cherry G80-3000LQCDE-2 keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="5dbe8684-a4fe-405f-b388-f34e5a09b4e2" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:30:58.963" UserId="3851" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4070" RevisionGUID="a302a082-0e28-44a0-b17e-87166f136424" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:40:00.200" UserId="3820" Text="I think they just made a new keyboard for that series of products. If you look at **Cherry Americas** website you can find a G80-3000 MX, which looks really similar to the product you said. But if you want that specific product you can easily find it on Amazon, as I already did." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4071" RevisionGUID="83137f42-f897-4086-9fe8-54fd2ad8f565" CreationDate="2016-07-01T17:16:22.593" UserId="3855" Text="I'm going to study for a bachelor in applied maths in the fall, and naturally, it will involve a lot of programming, computer simulations etc. The degree I'm pursuing relies heavily on scientific computation and object oriented programming with Java, Matlab and Python. However, I don't expect my studies will require a laptop in the top range of computing power.&#xA;&#xA;Thus I will need a computer (laptop) that is suited for such tasks, but also one that is lightweight and easy to carry around campus and has a long battery life. A good keyboard, screen, touchpad etc are of course highly desirable, as well.&#xA;&#xA;Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for PCs that I should consider (I don't think Apple is an option for me). Being a student I'm not interested in going much above $ 1000, at most a couple hundred above. If you have any specific models in mind, that would be welcome, but I'm equally interested if you know about any specific brands that may have several well suited models.&#xA;&#xA;Thank you in advance for helpful suggestions.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4071" RevisionGUID="83137f42-f897-4086-9fe8-54fd2ad8f565" CreationDate="2016-07-01T17:16:22.593" UserId="3855" Text="Picking a laptop for applied maths" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4071" RevisionGUID="83137f42-f897-4086-9fe8-54fd2ad8f565" CreationDate="2016-07-01T17:16:22.593" UserId="3855" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4075" RevisionGUID="43eada79-ea98-458d-aade-1026fc3cc390" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:47:30.983" UserId="3836" Text="ASUS VivoBook E403SA-US21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Quad Core Pentium on latest process sips power and delivers performance&#xD;&#xA;- SSD allows efficient and fast operation, large enough to dual boot if you need a linux on there&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 10 delivers good power-savings and compatibilty&#xD;&#xA;- 4gb RAM good enough for low-intensity programs and mild multitasking&#xD;&#xA;- 14&quot; screen - it's a lil' guy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks like people are claiming it lasts ~14 hours on a charge, which would be impressive if true.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12701" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4076" RevisionGUID="9ac212e8-0cca-403f-96af-220faf25f0eb" CreationDate="2016-07-01T20:28:09.637" UserId="3836" Text="I'm gonna go with the following recommendation list, including the mobo, to show you how I imagine it fitting into a situation like the one you're seeing:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/8nn4Cy&#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/8nn4Cy/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD A10-7890K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($148.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ ATX FM2+ Motherboard  ($99.99 @&#xD;&#xA;   SuperBiiz)  &#xD;&#xA; - Memory: PNY Anarchy 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory &#xD;&#xA;   ($34.99 @ Amazon)  &#xD;&#xA; - Case: Silverstone GD09B HTPC Case  ($72.99 @&#xD;&#xA;   SuperBiiz)  &#xD;&#xA; - Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I&#xD;&#xA;   PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $386.95&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-01 16:22 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the takeaways here are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- APU comes with decent GPU w/ VCE decoder for streaming, no need to spend on separate dGPU.&#xD;&#xA;- mobo features DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;- addon BT+AC capability&#xD;&#xA;- 7.1ch sound&#xD;&#xA;- APU comes with quiet cooler stock&#xD;&#xA;- Case is quiet and livingroom-oriented&#xD;&#xA;- 16gb RAM is a possibility with upgrades&#xD;&#xA;- fullsize dGPU can later be added&#xD;&#xA;- USB requirements met&#xD;&#xA;- Storage requirements met&#xD;&#xA;- Cost requirements met&#xD;&#xA;- UEFI support requirements met&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the only downside as I see it is unfortunate AMD driver support in linux (SteamOS), but as a dGPU can be added later this is not a showstopper the way I see it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4077" RevisionGUID="69216775-45ee-4aac-90fa-2af2a9d55c36" CreationDate="2016-07-01T20:48:35.113" UserId="3836" Text="Just as an addon point to a lot of what people are saying here.... you guys do realize there is such a thing as an internal Ethernet addon card, right? It's a lot better than the USB solution usually... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;one (very cheap) example:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5M11TB9358" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4071" RevisionGUID="919777ee-22fd-4ba6-b4b7-12449d1d092a" CreationDate="2016-07-01T21:33:36.643" UserId="3855" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="I'm going to study for a bachelor in applied maths in the fall, and naturally, it will involve a lot of programming, computer simulations etc. The degree I'm pursuing relies heavily on scientific computation and object oriented programming with Java, Matlab and Python. However, I don't expect my studies will require a laptop in the top range of computing power.&#xA;&#xA;Thus I will need a computer (laptop) that is suited for such tasks, but also one that is lightweight and easy to carry around campus and has a long battery life. A good keyboard, screen, touchpad etc are of course highly desirable, as well.&#xA;&#xA;Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for PCs that I should consider (I don't think Apple is an option for me). Being a student I'm not interested in going much above $ 1000, at most a couple hundred above. If you have any specific models in mind, that would be welcome, but I'm equally interested if you know about any specific brands that may have several well suited models.&#xA;&#xA;Thank you in advance for helpful suggestions.&#xA;EDIT: I'm currently looking at the Asus UX305 or the UX303 series.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4077" RevisionGUID="740bb869-5025-4b21-bbf7-4f8da544c42d" CreationDate="2016-07-01T21:38:06.400" UserId="3836" Comment="added 174 characters in body" Text="Just as an addon point to a lot of what people are saying here.... you guys do realize there is such a thing as an internal Ethernet addon card, right? It's a lot better than the USB solution usually... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;one (very cheap) example:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5M11TB9358&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;advantages to other solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- works with most motherboards&#xD;&#xA;- better speed than USB 2.0 options&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't take up any USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;- cheaper than many alternatives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4077" RevisionGUID="238fcd1d-d24e-4b10-b157-2a2651517c46" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:01:12.497" UserId="155" Comment="removed extraneous commentary to solidify answer" Text="Just use an internal Ethernet add-on card. It's a lot better than the USB solution usually...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One (very cheap) example:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5M11TB9358&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Advantages to other solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- works with most motherboards&#xD;&#xA;- better speed than USB 2.0 options&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't take up any USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;- cheaper than many alternatives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4078" RevisionGUID="4fd8d415-0228-4e09-8129-c66ac531bf22" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:07:43.193" UserId="84" Text="On further research I found several claims that 3.5&quot; 7200rpm drives are a lot harder to keep quiet than sub-6000rpm drives, and that there is no longer a significant performance benefit from the higher platter speed (I suppose because data density is so high that the linear speed under the head is no longer a limiting factor?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I expanded my search to 5900rpm drives and found an $80 [Toshiba DT01ABA300V](http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/us/product/storage-products/specialty/dt01abaxxxv.html) that includes &quot;low acoustics&quot; under its design features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I put it in my chassis and have been running it for a few days and haven't heard a thing.  So for quiet this does the trick!  (How is its R/W performance?  Well I use a SSD for O/S and programs, so I don't know if I would notice even if it were markedly deficient....)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4079" RevisionGUID="aa28027b-309c-4f67-ab8b-031299863869" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:26:45.040" UserId="84" Text="A Newegg tech advisor noted that Asus and Lenovo case designs tend to be pretty quiet.  Rather than build I decided this time to buy a Lenovo 300-20ish on sale, which was actually cheaper than building an equivalent system.  Been a while since I've bought a finished desktop, but it's a really neat little tower, and it's quieter than any other computers I use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As [Peter noted](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4039/84), keys to silence are, foremost, to keep fans off or slow.  This system is built around a 65W CPU, and I haven't (yet) put a power-hungry GPU in there (I realized I can run 4k off the MB's HDMI).  So the PSU and CPU fans aren't going crazy, I put [a quiet spinning disk](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4078/84) inside along with the primary SSD, and it's just *quiet* all the time!  (Except, of course, when I'm using the optical drive.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4080" RevisionGUID="769497cb-01be-4835-b38b-25031fce65ed" CreationDate="2016-07-02T00:15:44.333" UserId="3858" Text="First of all i would like to thanks all the ppl for their answer, i've spent alot of time gathering informations and i'm locked on this issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a laptop with gtx960m and i7-3610qm(6M Cache, up to 3.30 GHz). I can play with it at 720p30 on medium settings and can't record my games (that's the most important point) more than 480p30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a build with which i can play on 1080p60 on average **while recording** my games at the same definition/framerate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to not use sli, and i'm going to buy a i7-4790k (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz) and a gtx970.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. is the gtx970 able to render 1080p60 in last games in ultra settings (i saw it seems to be a small yes)&#xD;&#xA; 2. is the gtx970 able to render 1080p60 in last games while recording (ultra, high or medium?)&#xD;&#xA; 3. which of those will be the bottleneck, cpu or gpu (recording while playing)&#xD;&#xA; 4. maybe the gtx970 is not enough for my usage, which one do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for ur answers :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12711" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4080" RevisionGUID="769497cb-01be-4835-b38b-25031fce65ed" CreationDate="2016-07-02T00:15:44.333" UserId="3858" Text="GTX 970 and i7 4790k for 1080p60 while recording" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4080" RevisionGUID="769497cb-01be-4835-b38b-25031fce65ed" CreationDate="2016-07-02T00:15:44.333" UserId="3858" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4081" RevisionGUID="b0cb3d0d-22df-4902-b318-9081784b672b" CreationDate="2016-07-02T08:16:07.303" UserId="3709" Text="Searching for a router, maybe a router/DSL modem hybrid that is a bit robust.&#xD;&#xA;I don´t care about speed; anything on the current market will suffice; but I´d like something that can take a few bumps without getting bruised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I´m not talking about outdoor computing or industry requirements, although the [Siemens Ruggedcom](http://w3.siemens.com/mcms/industrial-communication/en/rugged-communication/products/switches-routers-layer-3/Pages/cellular-router.aspx) look like fine pieces of engineering. Does anybody have experience with these? Does the 1400 also have DSL connectivity? And what do they cost (in germany, if you can tell)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- - -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a router that can take some changes in weather, voltage, amperage and will last a few years with all the network roadworks that go on these days (and will surely not subside). I.e.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- capacitors should have a good deal of tolerance to power surges&#xD;&#xA;- components should not be too tightly packed (good heat dissipation)&#xD;&#xA;- should not require active cooling&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;additional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MAC filter is a must-have&#xD;&#xA;- should have no problems to handle up to a dozen WLAN devices&#xD;&#xA;- Are there any routers for home/office use that allow taking a look at their innards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;nice to have (not required, but please mention if your recommended device has it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- VPN support: very nice&#xD;&#xA;- USB slot: nice (for a printer or network drive)&#xD;&#xA;- SIM slot: luxury" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4081" RevisionGUID="b0cb3d0d-22df-4902-b318-9081784b672b" CreationDate="2016-07-02T08:16:07.303" UserId="3709" Text="stress tolerant router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4081" RevisionGUID="b0cb3d0d-22df-4902-b318-9081784b672b" CreationDate="2016-07-02T08:16:07.303" UserId="3709" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12718" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="0b17a8e1-8c6a-4cec-a5bf-4e3e8c35ec2b" CreationDate="2016-07-02T12:32:50.977" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1096112/searching-for-no-wireless-small-cable-keyboard" />
  <row Id="12719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="1866d1f6-d4dd-4fb8-9fae-13f41bb34d58" CreationDate="2016-07-02T12:18:03.360" UserId="3861" UserDisplayName="Sopalajo de Arrierez" Text="I want to buy a **cable Keyboard** to travel with i, so I want a small sized one. I request for advices, please.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Assumptions**:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **No wireless** keyboards in any manner (no bluetooth, infrared, radio... etc). This is a question about wired keyboards.  &#xD;&#xA;- **Foldable** keyboards accepted.&#xD;&#xA;- USB and PS2 **cable** accepted. Both would be fine.&#xD;&#xA;- No need for **mouse**: it will increase the size of the keyboard, and this question is about **small** keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;- It is logicall that there will be some key-taste quality sacrificing, but not-too-bad **keys quality** would be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;- **Thumb** keyboards accepted.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12720" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="1866d1f6-d4dd-4fb8-9fae-13f41bb34d58" CreationDate="2016-07-02T12:18:03.360" UserId="3861" UserDisplayName="Sopalajo de Arrierez" Text="Searching for no wireless small cable keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12721" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="1866d1f6-d4dd-4fb8-9fae-13f41bb34d58" CreationDate="2016-07-02T12:18:03.360" UserId="3861" UserDisplayName="Sopalajo de Arrierez" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="a3312756-3a51-4f58-965b-e2f18806d7a9" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:50:09.490" UserId="3804" Text="I am planning to assemble a desktop and was looking to purchase a PSU for my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Config**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**i7 6700k**  &#xD;&#xA;**Asus Z170-P** - LGA1151 -http://goo.gl/5QMajz  &#xD;&#xA;**Cooler Master 212x** -http://goo.gl/kAPM3D  &#xD;&#xA;**GTX 1070**  &#xD;&#xA;**1 tb HDD 7200 rpm**  &#xD;&#xA;**5 120mm LED fans**  &#xD;&#xA;**16 GB DDR4 RAM (2100 mhz)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12723" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="a3312756-3a51-4f58-965b-e2f18806d7a9" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:50:09.490" UserId="3804" Text="Recommend a PSU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="a3312756-3a51-4f58-965b-e2f18806d7a9" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:50:09.490" UserId="3804" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="5be5a366-b4f4-4440-8275-a83b7045edd6" CreationDate="2016-07-02T19:15:10.853" UserId="912" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited title" Text="I want to buy a **wired keyboard** to travel with, so I want a small sized one. I request for advices, please.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **No wireless** keyboards in any manner (no bluetooth, infrared, radio... etc). This is a question about wired keyboards.  &#xD;&#xA;- **Foldable** keyboards accepted.&#xD;&#xA;- USB and PS2 **connectors** accepted. Both would be fine.&#xD;&#xA;- No need for **mouse**: it will increase the size of the keyboard, and this question is about **small** keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;- It is logical that there will be some switch/keycap quality sacrificing, but not-too-bad **switch/keycap quality** would be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;- **Thumb** keyboards accepted.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="5be5a366-b4f4-4440-8275-a83b7045edd6" CreationDate="2016-07-02T19:15:10.853" UserId="912" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited title" Text="Searching for small, wired keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12727" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4082" RevisionGUID="5be5a366-b4f4-4440-8275-a83b7045edd6" CreationDate="2016-07-02T19:15:10.853" UserId="912" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited title" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4084" RevisionGUID="68836b54-b838-43d7-a309-d04d3c0518b8" CreationDate="2016-07-02T19:24:11.290" UserId="3863" Text="There are several things to consider when purchasing a PSU, but here are the most important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does it have enough wattage to support my components and any upgrades I might want in the future?&#xD;&#xA; - Is it made by a reliable company and is it made with quality components?&#xD;&#xA; - What is its power efficiency? (How effectively it converts the power from your outlet)&#xD;&#xA; - Does it have enough cables or sockets to support any future upgrades I might want?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are obviously aesthetic requirements as well, like whether it's modular, whether the color will match your build, and sometimes special lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, picking a PSU is one of the easiest components to choose. Here's the one I went with on my recent build, with a 6700k and a 1070: [EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1 80+ BRONZE, 750W][1]. This unit has more wattage than I currently need but it leaves room for upgrades in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EVGA is a reputable brand, this unit has great reviews, and it's relatively cheap. My only complaint with it is the mesh surrounding the cables don't completely block the colors of the cables inside, but that's not noticeable once it's in the case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If money isn't a concern, go with something fully modular with lots of plugs, and higher power efficiency, like this: [EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X23O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0850-XR/dp/B00IKDETOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467487288&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=power+supply&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888290011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4085" RevisionGUID="534528a5-96a1-49ac-985f-3d6eb2482d36" CreationDate="2016-07-02T19:36:29.547" UserId="3863" Text="To answer your question about recording, recent NVidia cards have a feature called ShadowPlay that can record games using a chip in the card independently of the CPU and the rest of the GPU, meaning next to no performance impact on games and computer usage. ShadowPlay is capable of both recording and streaming in 1080P at 60 FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The limiting factor for recording on a 970 is more likely to be your HDD or SSD. It's strongly recommended to record to a second HDD, apart from the disk where Windows and the game is installed, to avoid the disk from being overloaded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in response to whether the 970 is good enough; the GTX 1060 will be released soon (sources say the 14th of July) which will most likely offer performance improvements over the 970. I strongly recommend waiting until then before making a decision and buying the 970.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to whether the 970 is powerful enough to run the latest games at ultra settings, that's a matter of the game. Games like The Witcher 3 are very graphically intensive and can't be run with high FPS on the 970. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without knowing the specific games you're interested in playing, it's best to look up user experiences for the card and game you're interested in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4086" RevisionGUID="dcb890eb-a080-406b-92e4-0a30d5544b02" CreationDate="2016-07-02T23:59:53.713" UserId="3865" Text="Looking to buy a VPN capable router, for less than 10 concurrent users. It needs to handle IPSec and have us be able to connect to it from both OS X and Windows clients.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably it needs to work with Cisco AnyConnect but any router that allows us to obtain a certain ip/subnet after connecting to the vpn is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We've tried using a Cisco RV042 with no luck." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12731" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4086" RevisionGUID="dcb890eb-a080-406b-92e4-0a30d5544b02" CreationDate="2016-07-02T23:59:53.713" UserId="3865" Text="Looking for a VPN capable router for a small business" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12732" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4086" RevisionGUID="dcb890eb-a080-406b-92e4-0a30d5544b02" CreationDate="2016-07-02T23:59:53.713" UserId="3865" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="70392b43-0113-4110-8c37-a45aaa8de924" CreationDate="2016-07-03T05:37:57.853" UserId="3804" Comment="added 202 characters in body" Text="I am planning to assemble a desktop and was looking to purchase a PSU for my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Config**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**i7 6700k**  &#xD;&#xA;**Asus Z170-P** - LGA1151 -http://goo.gl/5QMajz  &#xD;&#xA;**Cooler Master 212x** -http://goo.gl/kAPM3D  &#xD;&#xA;**GTX 1070**  &#xD;&#xA;**1 tb HDD 7200 rpm**  &#xD;&#xA;**5 120mm LED fans**  &#xD;&#xA;**16 GB DDR4 RAM (2100 mhz)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**  &#xD;&#xA;I would not be upgrading the system for a while and I would not buy any additional graphics card to be used in an SLI way.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would Corsair 650w - http://goo.gl/jnI6BS be an adequate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="0a49ae0a-6d8b-4e55-8989-ea7744804364" CreationDate="2016-07-03T05:48:01.673" UserId="3804" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="I am planning to assemble a desktop and was looking to purchase a PSU for my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Config**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**i7 6700k**  &#xD;&#xA;**Asus Z170-P** - LGA1151 -http://goo.gl/5QMajz  &#xD;&#xA;**Cooler Master 212x** -http://goo.gl/kAPM3D  &#xD;&#xA;**GTX 1070**  &#xD;&#xA;**1 tb HDD 7200 rpm**  &#xD;&#xA;**5 120mm LED fans**  &#xD;&#xA;**16 GB DDR4 RAM (2100 mhz)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**  &#xD;&#xA;I would not be upgrading the system for a while and I would not buy any additional graphics card to be used in an SLI way.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would **Corsair 650w** - http://goo.gl/jnI6BS be an adequate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is less than INR 5000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4083" RevisionGUID="3f364d1d-d3d3-47eb-9a61-155208ccb1a7" CreationDate="2016-07-03T06:36:57.773" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4087" RevisionGUID="1391eb68-3af0-4ac7-b54f-0fee024b9077" CreationDate="2016-07-03T12:31:11.593" UserId="2052" Text="You can look at Ubiquiti's [EdgeMAX line][1]. Don't be fooled by the size and price, it is a very capable device. It can run standard IPsec and you can also install OpenVPN on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used OpenVPN for Windows and Unix machines with good results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ubnt.com/products/#routing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4085" RevisionGUID="4820fe49-f8d3-4f5f-bb58-e67a061cf358" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:20:54.813" UserId="3863" Comment="added 227 characters in body" Text="To answer your question about recording, recent NVidia cards have a feature called ShadowPlay that can record games using a chip in the card independently of the CPU and the rest of the GPU, meaning next to no performance impact on games and computer usage. ShadowPlay is capable of both recording and streaming in 1080P at 60 FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The limiting factor for recording on a 970 is more likely to be your HDD or SSD. It's strongly recommended to record to a second HDD, apart from the disk where Windows and the game is installed, to avoid the disk from being overloaded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in response to whether the 970 is good enough; the GTX 1060 will be released soon (sources say the 14th of July) which will most likely offer performance improvements over the 970. I strongly recommend waiting until then before making a decision and buying the 970.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to whether the 970 is powerful enough to run the latest games at ultra settings, that's a matter of the game. Games like The Witcher 3 are very graphically intensive and can't be run with high FPS on the 970. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without knowing the specific games you're interested in playing, it's best to look up user experiences for the card and game you're interested in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: [This article says the GTX 1060 will rival the performance of a 980][1], so again, I strongly recommend waiting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://videocardz.com/61753/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-specifications-leaked-faster-than-rx-480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4089" RevisionGUID="fda7c53c-7c85-48d4-8197-74ecb0863f8b" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:48:38.913" UserId="162" Text="I need to get really tough over the ear headphones for my pre teen kids. I am not interested in Beats and want something that is over the ear and that will last. High bass is not a priority. They are strictly for listening and don't require a mike." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12746" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4089" RevisionGUID="fda7c53c-7c85-48d4-8197-74ecb0863f8b" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:48:38.913" UserId="162" Text="need headphones for kids" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12747" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4089" RevisionGUID="fda7c53c-7c85-48d4-8197-74ecb0863f8b" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:48:38.913" UserId="162" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;tough&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4094" RevisionGUID="bbb7d4ff-3aaa-468a-b62a-18d85630d00e" CreationDate="2016-07-03T21:37:38.147" UserId="3873" Text="I am in the market for a new laptop, and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good laptop for less than $400 that world have decent performance (preferably at least an Intel i3) and would work well with Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it for programming, surfing the web and writing documents. &lt;br&gt; Thank you for your suggestions &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12755" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4094" RevisionGUID="bbb7d4ff-3aaa-468a-b62a-18d85630d00e" CreationDate="2016-07-03T21:37:38.147" UserId="3873" Text="What would be a good laptop for running Ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4094" RevisionGUID="bbb7d4ff-3aaa-468a-b62a-18d85630d00e" CreationDate="2016-07-03T21:37:38.147" UserId="3873" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12767" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4089" RevisionGUID="a9c5b537-796f-4aae-a37c-28882cb596cc" CreationDate="2016-07-04T05:25:03.980" UserId="57" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4097" RevisionGUID="32211d14-159d-48da-9848-4a116b8b4f03" CreationDate="2016-07-04T05:36:20.437" UserId="57" Text="For a recent vacation, involving multiple connecting flights, rental cars, hotel rooms and hiking, I bought the relatively cheap [JLab JBuddies headphones][1] for my children for less than $20 each. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![JLabs Headphone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The over the ear component is small. It definitely wouldn't feel comfortable on my ears. I'm not sure about pre-teen, but for young elementary school it works great.&#xD;&#xA; - They fold up and are compact, which was great for traveling and storage&#xD;&#xA; - They have a standard mini-jack and work great on the tablets&#xD;&#xA; - Built in maximum volume limiter&#xD;&#xA; - These survived being stuffed in backpacks by less than careful children, tossed around various hotel rooms, cars and airplane storage locations. The cords were not gently wrapped up after each usage and generally treated as I'd expect younger children to treat electronics when I don't glare at them to not break something. They survived all of that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.walmart.com/ip/JLab-JBuddies-Folding-Headphones/41136487&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/B3u56.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="837676a5-ae52-41de-8b56-ea9a2da8285d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T07:46:29.507" UserId="3878" Text="In my dell inspiron 15r Se I have this fan its original The CFM of this fan is 9.3&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-DELL-INSPIRON-15R-5520-7520-SE-CPU-FAN-SUNON-MAGLEV-D0D6C-0D0D6C-/171345170329?hash=item27e4f7cf99:g:ehoAAOxyzpdTiKB3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I replace that fan with this one, the CFM on this fan is much higher 65. Will there be any performance issues and noise ? Is it better to use the fan of the same brand.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Inspiron-15R-5520-5720-7520-3760-SE-CPU-Fan-0D0D6C-D0D6C-XRF-DFS531205HCOT-/121997676660?hash=item1c67a0d074:g:yrUAAOSwR5dXRaH4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="837676a5-ae52-41de-8b56-ea9a2da8285d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T07:46:29.507" UserId="3878" Text="Laptop cpu fan replacement would this fan work ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="837676a5-ae52-41de-8b56-ea9a2da8285d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T07:46:29.507" UserId="3878" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4099" RevisionGUID="57edd254-17cc-4986-9bde-f8c71d0b5422" CreationDate="2016-07-04T08:02:10.863" UserId="3709" Text="I just took the most inexpensive computer I could find (€300 without an OS), and had no severe problems over the past 3.5 years. Use it as a development web server; on travels also as office computer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I´ts an Asus K53U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; wide screen glare display, full keyboard, Ethernet and WLAN g, a Kensington Lock, SD slot, 3*USB, VGA and HDMI output, DVD writer&#xD;&#xA;- not _too_ loud or heavy, and **it´s a breeze to exchange hardware components**.&#xD;&#xA;- innards: AMD Fusion C50 (a little slower than an i3, but best performance per Watt), 2 GB RAM and a decent battery.&#xD;&#xA;- The machine sometimes freezes for a minute or so when I open too many tabs in Firefox and have Kruzader running, but that´s about it. Not a single emergency boot in all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine even survived a few (physical) crashes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- life-hacked the power socket (after a 4ft drop to a stone floor)&#xD;&#xA;- replaced the HDD with an SSD in no time (after the same drop)&#xD;&#xA;- only the new DVD drive does´t really fit into the case; keeps popping open from time to time. (Yup: I actually killed my coffee cup holder.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4100" RevisionGUID="880024e8-e315-4e7b-89f7-6050b9f8fb79" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:27:50.253" UserId="653" Text="**No.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is because the mount points for the screws are different:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's unclear exactly why you want a higher airflow in your machine, however I suspect you want to cool the machine down quicker/more efficiently, in order to fix temperature issues. Even if a higher CFM fan did exist for your model, it is unlikely that it would be supported in your model's revision as higher CFM fans will use more power (that the specific revision of the model might not be able to provide).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore to (partially) fix your temperature issues a [laptop cooling pad](http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.XLaptop+Cooling+Pad.TRS0&amp;_nkw=Laptop+Cooling+Pad&amp;_sacat=0) may be better suited for your situation, as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has its own fans built-in that attach to a USB port of your machine;&#xD;&#xA; - They are relatively inexpensive;&#xD;&#xA; - It may last longer than the life of your current machine (you may be able to use it for your next laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NpRyo.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4101" RevisionGUID="8e71ab7f-750e-4609-ae25-748e828d03c3" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:46:35.783" UserId="3879" Text="I've started using Cycles Render in Blender for a specific project. I've set up CUDA on my Linux machine to enable rendering with the GPU however discovered that my graphics card, an old GeForce GT 520, does GPU rendering much more slowly than the render with the CPU (Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this point, my budget for a new graphics card is R$800 (Brazilian Real) and the cheapest local online market for cards here is this one: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.kabum.com.br/hardware/placa-de-video-vga?ordem=5&amp;limite=30&amp;dep=01&amp;sec=14&amp;cat=&amp;sub=&amp;pagina=1&amp;string=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Within my budget and in the GeForce line, I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 750 Ti 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX 950 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these likely to improve performance significantly over the performance of my CPU? Or are they too low-level? Other suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4101" RevisionGUID="8e71ab7f-750e-4609-ae25-748e828d03c3" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:46:35.783" UserId="3879" Text="Budget graphics card recommendation for Blender Cycles Render on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12777" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4101" RevisionGUID="8e71ab7f-750e-4609-ae25-748e828d03c3" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:46:35.783" UserId="3879" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4102" RevisionGUID="c8e73971-d194-4d81-a330-dcde284b495d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T10:37:58.860" UserId="653" Text="I currently utilize a single Amazon Web Services EC2 t2.micro server on Windows Server 2012 R2 for my multiplayer gaming services (providing server listings). Due to many reasons, I need to modify the system to utilize an efficient DBMS as well as a web interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the EC2 server runs the main server program (uses a local SQLite database), and I use external web-hosting to provide the website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My initial draft of the new system has a total of three servers, plus an optional fourth for game-server hosting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Server 1 (32GB RAM, 4 CPU Cores, 200GB HDD): Database&#xD;&#xA; - Server 2 (8GB RAM, 2 CPU Cores, 100GB HDD): Main Application&#xD;&#xA; - Server 3 (8GB RAM, 2 CPU Cores, 100GB HDD): Web Control Panel&#xD;&#xA; - Server 4 (8GB RAM, 4 CPU Cores, 200GB HDD): Game-server hosting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hosting all this on AWS would be... expensive, and as a result I'm looking for a dedicated server where I can host these four servers via HyperV (I have a genuine Windows Server 2012 R2 Datacenter licence, so I can do this easily).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a database server I understand that RAM and CPU are the most important, and as the main application runs on the t2.micro server without any issues (it uses hardly anything), it does not need much to run. The same can be said for the web control panel, and the game-server hosting VM will be just one game and a couple of servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm therefore looking for a dedicated server for rent that has the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The ability to use my own Windows Server licence, rather than paying a fee to use theirs;&#xD;&#xA; - Fully dedicated so HyperV can be used (I'll also be [using Bosun][1], which absolutely requires virtualization to be supported by the CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Supports my desired configuration *and* be sub-£100 (~$132)&#xD;&#xA; - DDoS protection available&#xD;&#xA; - Support for at least three extra IPs (some have a limit on extra IPs, which is why I mention it)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be located in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found three servers that match my specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The £100 server from Zare][2], including i7 6700K, 64GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD, and DDoS protection&#xD;&#xA; - [MC-128 from OVH][3] (slightly over budget), Xeon E5-160 v2, 128GB DDR3 RAM, 2x 480GB SSD, DDoS Protection (*unsure about supporting BYOL- I asked them and will update when they respond*)&#xD;&#xA; - So you Start - 96G ECC 2xE5606 8c/8t HardRaid 2x2TB Server: I reserved this one (at no cost) and can't find it on their site anymore, but at its price point it looks like it is a VPS and not a true dedicated server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these three servers should I use, and why? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/bosun-monitor/bosun&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://zare.com/dedicated-servers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ovh.co.uk/dedicated_servers/details-servers.xml?range=GAME&amp;id=MC-128-LD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12779" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4102" RevisionGUID="c8e73971-d194-4d81-a330-dcde284b495d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T10:37:58.860" UserId="653" Text="Dedicated Server for Multiple VMs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4102" RevisionGUID="c8e73971-d194-4d81-a330-dcde284b495d" CreationDate="2016-07-04T10:37:58.860" UserId="653" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="dcfb4aa5-f14d-4895-9992-e0b296a61740" CreationDate="2016-07-04T11:29:35.907" UserId="3851" Comment="added 398 characters in body" Text="I wanted to buy a second Cherry G80-3000LQCDE-2 keyboard for the workplace because I have been very comfortable using it at home for years. However I noticed that it is not available any more, at least in Germany. Can someone shed light on why it was discontinued and what similar (preferably Cherry) keyboard I can get instead? It should be mechanical, affordable, with pressure point (not linear) switches and not too loud. Not bells and whistles, just a keyboard with German layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: According to https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_G80-3000, the Q in the LQCDE identifier stands for clear switches so I would prefer ones with similar feel but, if possible, less typing noise.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cherry.de/PDF/DE_G80-3000.pdf does not show this type anymore, however, it only lists ones with black, blue and brown switches. Which ones are more most suitable for my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4103" RevisionGUID="b59aa267-d2ce-45e4-b2db-bb82c689fb9e" CreationDate="2016-07-04T12:34:52.403" UserId="3881" Text="I'm currently search for a new custom PC and one of the hardest part to me is to choose what case should i go to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a case that can fit perfectly the motherboard `MSI Z170A M7` and the cpu cooler `Corsair H100i V2` and the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It was good space inside, but dont to be very big outside &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can implement a good ventilation system (at least 2 fans on the bottom front, and 1 on back top), the place to install the H100i should be on the top since the heated air tend to go up and not down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Filters for fans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Space for the list of components bellow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least space for one optical drive, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For last the price as an important factor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be the list of components that I'm thinking, since it can help on te decision of the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI z170A M7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I7 6700k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung 950 512GB M.2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Vengence 16(2x8)GB 3200MHZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair H100i V2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair RM750x &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU still thinking, but consider Gtx 1070 or 1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - On the future it will be added a second Samsung 950 512GB M.2 for raid 0 and a ide for data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for the best case for the setup and the pros and cons of the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. I'm not into the led fancing thing but if the case is the best and has leds i don't mind." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4103" RevisionGUID="b59aa267-d2ce-45e4-b2db-bb82c689fb9e" CreationDate="2016-07-04T12:34:52.403" UserId="3881" Text="Best case for z170A M7 and Corsair Hydro H100i V2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4103" RevisionGUID="b59aa267-d2ce-45e4-b2db-bb82c689fb9e" CreationDate="2016-07-04T12:34:52.403" UserId="3881" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4105" RevisionGUID="1f0ad63e-8dba-4960-982f-dfc92eec927a" CreationDate="2016-07-04T12:51:29.870" UserId="2478" Text="Either of these options will **improve your performance significantly**. The **i7-2600K** gives you the **Intel HD 3000** on-board graphics, and both of these cards **outperform** the functionalities of **the Intel HD 3000** pretty significantly. As far as rendering is concerned, I had to do a bit of research, but for your purposes either of these units would improve your performance quite a bit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Prior** to Cycles Render, [the GPU didn't really matter][1], it was all about having a **beefy processor**. Now, that Cycles puts the GPU to good use, **buying a GPU for Cycles Rendering is a fantastic idea**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, as far as which GPU of those two to purchase, what you **really want** is a **good chunk of graphics memory**. Out of the two you listed, the **GTX 950 would be my choice**, although you get the same amount of memory, it is a newer card, and it brings with it all the features of a newer card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've read, **2GB seems** to be more than **sufficient** for most people. That being said, a wise recommendation would be to download [GPU-Z][2], render a scene, and see how much VRAM it takes to render. This will give you a better **approximation** of exactly what you need. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, **yes a GPU will increase your performance significantly**, and the **more VRAM you have, the better your performance** when it comes to rendering with Cycles. **CUDA** is the preferred over **OpenCL**, making **Nvidia cards the best choice**. Of the two you listed, I would **go with the GTX 950**, which has a performance edge over the GTX 750 TI. If you're **looking to save some money** though, the **750 will still give you a significant boost** in render speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some sources: [GPU Rendering FAQ][3] |&#xD;&#xA;              [Blender GPU FAQ][4] |&#xD;&#xA;              [GTX 950 Specs][5] |&#xD;&#xA;              [GTX 750 Ti Specs][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.blenderguru.com/articles/the-ultimate-guide-to-buying-a-computer-for-blender/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.blender.org/manual/render/cycles/gpu_rendering.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://blenderartists.org/forum/showthread.php?238202-BIGGEST-BLENDER-CYCLES-GRAPHICS-CARD-FAQ-s&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-950.150992.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-750-Ti-Desktop-Graphics-Card.126721.0.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4106" RevisionGUID="ba519d62-1c7a-430f-9131-dd349d733cf7" CreationDate="2016-07-04T18:56:46.960" UserId="3876" Text="You are looking for a ATX case. I have a few suggestions for you. Consider the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB or the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For comparision I have listed the Fractal Design Define R5, which is my favorite case. However, it is too large for your requirements (&quot;but dont to be very big outside&quot;). It's dimensions are 17.76&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.51&quot;. You seem to want something smaller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Three smaller cases are listed below. I only have experience with the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II. It's an older design, and it is missing some of the touches found in the R5, but it is a good quality case and it seems to be about the size you are seeking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB has very positive reviews. It is worth considering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The very smallest ATX case I know is the Cooler Master Elite 361. I have not used it. I think it is a older design, also probably lacking the modern features of the R5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pros and Cons below are all from NewEgg reviews. (I summarized.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Fractal Design Define R5** Blackout Window Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352057&#xD;&#xA;-  5 stars, 23 reviews $109.99&#xD;&#xA;-  Pros: very popular quiet case; excellent build quality; well thought out design elements; great value.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: not a compact, small case (for those looking for something compact)&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.19&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.91&quot; with feet/screws/protrusions&#xD;&#xA;        17.76&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.51&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 22.69 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooler Master Elite 361** - Mid Tower Computer Case with Rotatable Logo for Vertical or Horizontal Placement &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119262&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 17 reviews&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: Great size if you need something compact with full atx. Can fit a moderately large GPU in the case.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: Can't fit any tall cpu coolers in this case. May be too small for many builds.&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        14.40&quot; x 5.90&quot; x 18.20&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 10.60 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Antec Sonata Series SOLO II** Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129177&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 53 reviews $119.99&#xD;&#xA;- Compact, good quality; not on the same level as the R5, but better than most cases I've used&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.50&quot; x 8.10&quot; x 17.30&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 20.20 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**LIAN LI PC-A05FNB** Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 51 reviews $89.99&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: One of the best cases I've ever owned.  The front power supply position is an excellent use a space. Everything well thought out and designed. Beautiful finish.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: This case really can fit a full size ATX board, power supply and GPU, but it becomes a very tight fit when using full size parts. If you are patient then you can assemble this well even with full size parts. Just don't expect to open it up and tinker with it often!&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        19.69&quot; x 8.27&quot; x 15.16&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 9.70 lbs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4106" RevisionGUID="d9c1480e-e1b2-4bf8-a53f-244890a01cb4" CreationDate="2016-07-04T19:29:40.677" UserId="3876" Comment="added 3 more FD cases" Text="You are looking for a ATX case. I have a few suggestions for you. Consider the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB or the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For comparision I have listed the Fractal Design Define R5, which is my favorite case. However, it is too large for your requirements (&quot;but dont to be very big outside&quot;). It's dimensions are 17.76&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.51&quot;. You seem to want something smaller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Three smaller cases are listed below. I only have experience with the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II. It's an older design, and it is missing some of the touches found in the R5, but it is a good quality case and it seems to be about the size you are seeking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB has very positive reviews. It is worth considering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The very smallest ATX case I know is the Cooler Master Elite 361. I have not used it. I think it is a older design, also probably lacking the modern features of the R5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pros and Cons below are all from NewEgg reviews. (I summarized.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Fractal Design Define R5** Blackout Window Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352057&#xD;&#xA;-  5 stars, 23 reviews $109.99&#xD;&#xA;-  Pros: very popular quiet case; excellent build quality; well thought out design elements; great value.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: not a compact, small case (for those looking for something compact)&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.19&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.91&quot; with feet/screws/protrusions&#xD;&#xA;        17.76&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.51&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 22.69 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooler Master Elite 361** - Mid Tower Computer Case with Rotatable Logo for Vertical or Horizontal Placement &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119262&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 17 reviews&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: Great size if you need something compact with full atx. Can fit a moderately large GPU in the case.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: Can't fit any tall cpu coolers in this case. May be too small for many builds.&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        14.40&quot; x 5.90&quot; x 18.20&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 10.60 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Antec Sonata Series SOLO II** Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129177&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 53 reviews $119.99&#xD;&#xA;- Compact, good quality; not on the same level as the R5, but better than most cases I've used&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.50&quot; x 8.10&quot; x 17.30&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 20.20 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**LIAN LI PC-A05FNB** Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 51 reviews $89.99&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: One of the best cases I've ever owned.  The front power supply position is an excellent use a space. Everything well thought out and designed. Beautiful finish.&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: This case really can fit a full size ATX board, power supply and GPU, but it becomes a very tight fit when using full size parts. If you are patient then you can assemble this well even with full size parts. Just don't expect to open it up and tinker with it often!&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        19.69&quot; x 8.27&quot; x 15.16&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 9.70 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally prefer Fractal Design cases. Here are three more possibilities to consider. Of these, the Core 2300 is the smallest. However, the Core line is their budget line. I haven't used any of these cases, but they may lack some of the high end features of the R5 (and R4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Black Window High-Airflow ATX Midtower Computer Case **&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031&#xD;&#xA;- 5 stars, 178 reviews $109.99&#xD;&#xA;- Tweaktown Must Have Editor's Choice Award&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: &quot;By far the best case I have ever bought, and I've purchased many different cases.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: only 2 external drive bays; heavy; SSD mount has to be placed before putting on your mobo&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.11&quot; x 9.06&quot; x 20.28&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight:  23.59 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** Fractal Design Define R4 Black Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case **&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020&#xD;&#xA;- 5 stars, 494 reviews $109.99&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: Very solidly built, lots of cable routing options. Despite its quiet design, there is still good airflow. &quot;It's the best case i have used so far.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: &quot;A little bigger than I expected&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (H x W x D)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        18.27&quot; x 9.13&quot; x 20.59&quot;&#xD;&#xA;        Weight:  27.12 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** Fractal Design Core 2300 Black Wide-body ATX Midtower Computer Case **&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352042&#xD;&#xA;- 4 stars, 11 reviews $69.99&#xD;&#xA;- Benchmark Review's Recommended Product Award&#xD;&#xA;- A compact full-ATX case with bottom-mounted PSU, designed for exceptional airflow and cooling.&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: &quot;This is really a great case for a good price with a quality name behind it. The case is sturdy and well designed. Plenty of space for cable management and plenty of sources to tie down wires.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: Lower build quality than the R5; some claim flimsy; drive mounts are controversial&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions (W x H x D)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        7.6 x 17.5 x 18.1 inches (195 x 445 x 460mm)&#xD;&#xA;        Weight: 11.4 lbs (5.2kg)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4107" RevisionGUID="0db02289-a1f4-4612-94b4-50898562ec34" CreationDate="2016-07-04T19:57:56.340" UserId="3883" Text="I would like to put two ssd drivess in my new PC. one with Windows 10 and the other with the latest Ubunbtu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried this with my current setup without success, but I've also a RAID controller in my setup which is not helping ^^&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I tried to plug some portable device and boot from usb, this works when you've installed the ubuntu ISO image on the harddrive, but I would like to have the installed system. Installing went fine, just booting not ^^ Hung up in some very creepy grub console o.O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is a hardware platform, so I'm asking for mainboard (or some controller stuff?) recommendations fitting my needs with dual boot support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;Armin :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12797" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4107" RevisionGUID="0db02289-a1f4-4612-94b4-50898562ec34" CreationDate="2016-07-04T19:57:56.340" UserId="3883" Text="What to take care of when choosing mainbord, when I want to boot from two (or more?) harddrives separately" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4107" RevisionGUID="0db02289-a1f4-4612-94b4-50898562ec34" CreationDate="2016-07-04T19:57:56.340" UserId="3883" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="b5811951-7cb1-4f7f-80d4-5648ebbd0dc0" CreationDate="2016-07-04T23:07:42.073" UserId="3884" Text="Not sure if this is the best forum for this. If it is not, can you point me in the general direction of the best one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to play a video game that needs 1GB of dedicated RAM to the graphics card. When I use the &quot;Can I run it&quot; site, it tells me that there is only 32 MB of dedicated graphics RAM. When I run the game it is unbearably choppy and I am not able to play it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have included Device Manager and dxdiag screenshots. The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics. I have checked all the drivers, they are up to date. I have attempted to go in to the BIOS and change the amount, as recommended by some Google searchage. Is there anything else that I can do, other than replacing the card, to satisfy the game requirements? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/MN4B6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="b5811951-7cb1-4f7f-80d4-5648ebbd0dc0" CreationDate="2016-07-04T23:07:42.073" UserId="3884" Text="Dedicating RAM to video card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="b5811951-7cb1-4f7f-80d4-5648ebbd0dc0" CreationDate="2016-07-04T23:07:42.073" UserId="3884" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="f2ae90eb-5c15-43d5-a905-92d7be252a75" CreationDate="2016-07-05T01:40:02.420" UserId="3884" Comment="added 156 characters in body" Text="Not sure if this is the best forum for this. If it is not, can you point me in the general direction of the best one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to play a video game that needs 1GB of dedicated RAM to the graphics card. When I use the &quot;Can I run it&quot; site, it tells me that there is only 32 MB of dedicated graphics RAM. When I run the game it is unbearably choppy and I am not able to play it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have included Device Manager and dxdiag screenshots. The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics. I have checked all the drivers, they are up to date. I have attempted to go in to the BIOS and change the amount, as recommended by some Google searchage, but there is no option in there that I can find. I've selected every single option I can, just in case it's lurking somewhere I wouldn't expect to find it. Is there anything else that I can do, other than replacing the card, to satisfy the game requirements? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/MN4B6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="f86a110d-f15c-4635-8cda-480771cef79f" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:11:28.293" UserId="313" Comment="Making the edges clear" Text="Not sure if this is the best forum for this. If it is not, can you point me in the general direction of the best one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to play a video game that needs 1GB of dedicated RAM to the graphics card. When I use the &quot;Can I run it&quot; site, it tells me that there is only 32 MB of dedicated graphics RAM. When I run the game it is unbearably choppy and I am not able to play it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have included Device Manager and dxdiag screenshots. The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics. I have checked all the drivers, they are up to date. I have attempted to go in to the BIOS and change the amount, as recommended by some Google searchage, but there is no option in there that I can find. I've selected every single option I can, just in case it's lurking somewhere I wouldn't expect to find it. Is there anything else that I can do, other than replacing the card, to satisfy the game requirements? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/MN4B6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12810" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="f86a110d-f15c-4635-8cda-480771cef79f" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:11:28.293" Comment="Proposed by 313 approved by 3884 edit id of 473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4111" RevisionGUID="e7748313-1b28-42f6-bc2c-38e09254e97c" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:56:53.180" UserId="3887" Text="I have single gtx 760 3gb and still have room for another gpu. Should I go for a newer like 970 or 980 or get SLI?&#xD;&#xA;How better is 980 from 760 sli?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12812" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4111" RevisionGUID="e7748313-1b28-42f6-bc2c-38e09254e97c" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:56:53.180" UserId="3887" Text="GTX 760 SLI worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12813" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4111" RevisionGUID="e7748313-1b28-42f6-bc2c-38e09254e97c" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:56:53.180" UserId="3887" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4112" RevisionGUID="225c7828-7b4e-43f0-9220-0d9e059d939d" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:00:25.680" UserId="3887" Text="I believe any i3 laptop should work with Ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu is not so demanding in system so find any cheap or even refurbished laptops on newegg bhphotvideo moneyexchange " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4113" RevisionGUID="a56ed23e-8153-45f2-b8ac-c33549e6caf3" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:05:05.983" UserId="3887" Text="A simple google would do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Global-Marketing-Partners-FK205-Keyboard/dp/B000UZVL3K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks like a pretty decent one. Has a USB cable according to reviews and not made out of rubber&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12821" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="49dd5787-d28a-47ac-be0b-4a692f1ff83c" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:47:38.843" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; grammar" Text="In my [Dell Inspiron 15R SE][1] I have the original fan. The CFM of this fan is 9.3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I replace that fan with [this one][2]? The CFM on this fan is much higher 65. Will there be any performance issues and noise? Is it better to use the fan of the same brand?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-DELL-INSPIRON-15R-5520-7520-SE-CPU-FAN-SUNON-MAGLEV-D0D6C-0D0D6C-/171345170329?hash=item27e4f7cf99:g:ehoAAOxyzpdTiKB3&#xD;&#xA;[2]:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Inspiron-15R-5520-5720-7520-3760-SE-CPU-Fan-0D0D6C-D0D6C-XRF-DFS531205HCOT-/121997676660?hash=item1c67a0d074:g:yrUAAOSwR5dXRaH4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="49dd5787-d28a-47ac-be0b-4a692f1ff83c" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:47:38.843" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; grammar" Text="Laptop cpu fan replacement would this fan work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12823" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4098" RevisionGUID="74159774-f708-41cf-9bbe-bbe43e6faf48" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:48:14.093" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:653,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybermonkey&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12824" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="ef7877ea-a67f-4a84-9d67-e80279564621" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:50:38.287" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/34326/microfiche-based-solution-for-document-storage" />
  <row Id="12825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="baa5eed1-a126-41e6-a34a-ec85e706d96c" CreationDate="2016-07-01T18:10:45.590" UserId="3890" UserDisplayName="ChrisJ" Text="I am researching a solution for storing/archiving paper documents. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For judicial reasons, I can only store them on microfiche." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12826" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="baa5eed1-a126-41e6-a34a-ec85e706d96c" CreationDate="2016-07-01T18:10:45.590" UserId="3890" UserDisplayName="ChrisJ" Text="Microfiche-based solution for document storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12827" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="baa5eed1-a126-41e6-a34a-ec85e706d96c" CreationDate="2016-07-01T18:10:45.590" UserId="3890" UserDisplayName="ChrisJ" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4115" RevisionGUID="39dcda99-3db1-4151-908f-e493a40ffb5f" CreationDate="2016-07-05T05:07:09.143" UserId="3888" Text="That graphics card is horribly underpowered for any modern game. I would advise you to get a newer/better one (such as a 750Ti). Judging by the release date for the graphics card and 4GB of RAM, I would guess that the entire computer needs an upgrade to run any modern game smoothly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's total system RAM, not GPU RAM. the standard configuration for the 8500 GT is 256MB from Nvidia's website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: There is no way to get a reasonably modern game running smoothly on hardware released in 2007." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4116" RevisionGUID="ef37e087-97e6-4beb-8553-b2c2ef55146b" CreationDate="2016-07-05T12:28:29.857" UserId="2478" Text="Get something **newer**. Your card has **192-bit Memory Interface Width**, and a memory bus that slow is **not** going to **handle 3gb's of memory very efficiently**, even with a single card. You would be in a much **better** position with a **single 970 or 980**. While the amount of **VRAM might be greater** with the two 760's, **you won't see better performance** than you would out of a single 970 or 980. And you'll also have to deal with the first four problems I list in this answer [here][1]. Let me quote myself: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; First, you won't have to fuss around with getting **SLI** to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Second, some games **do not even support SLI properly**. Now this may **not happen often**, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know *most* games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there **are some compatibility issues** with certain games...) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Third, **power consumption**. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fourth, **resale value**. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these issues apply directly to your situation as well. Except the power consumption would be **slightly different** for 760's vs 970's; but the same concept applies, you'll be **drawing significantly more power**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would also have to **find** a 760 3gb card, which would be tough to get new, so you would be stuck with used or refurb models off of eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all? **Don't go for SLI**, instead of searching for the same card, **save your time**, **put more money up front** and get yourself a **GTX 970 or 980** (go Ti if you can!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sources: [GTX 760 3gb Specs][2] | [GTX 970 Specs][3] | [GTX 980 Specs][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4058/1x-gtx-1080-or-2x-gtx-970&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760-oem/specifications?ClickID=cvlkpk4q4xkikainsvfwfskkaei4zilwwnsn&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="84ea5615-033a-42ca-864f-ae1f11a95888" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:48:45.460" UserId="378" Comment="Tagged data storage" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="84ea5615-033a-42ca-864f-ae1f11a95888" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:48:45.460" Comment="Proposed by 378 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 474" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4080" RevisionGUID="cdfca853-31ac-4097-9ea0-f2aafa493b43" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:02:57.760" UserId="60" Comment="Reworded question to make it on topic" Text="I have a laptop with gtx960m and i7-3610qm(6M Cache, up to 3.30 GHz). I can play with it at 720p30 on medium settings and can't record my games (that's the most important point) more than 480p30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a build with which i can play on 1080p60 on average **while recording** my games at the same definition/frame rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to not use sli, and I'm going to buy a i7-4790k (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements for a graphics card are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. able to render 1080p60 in the latest games in ultra settings&#xD;&#xA; 2. able to render 1080p60 in last games while recording&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the gtx970, but I am not sure if it fits the requirements. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12833" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4080" RevisionGUID="cdfca853-31ac-4097-9ea0-f2aafa493b43" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:02:57.760" UserId="60" Comment="Reworded question to make it on topic" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12835" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="a9198bbb-27fe-4b91-abac-de0411e6169f" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:06:52.180" UserId="214" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:214,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Robert Cartaino&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12836" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4107" RevisionGUID="3856ff7d-45df-4e71-9e94-55b4667d4145" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:35:35.500" UserId="57" Comment="comments to question migration" Text="I would like to put two ssd drivess in my new PC. one with Windows 10 and the other with the latest Ubunbtu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried this with my current setup without success, but I've also a RAID controller in my setup which is not helping ^^&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I tried to plug some portable device and boot from usb, this works when you've installed the ubuntu ISO image on the harddrive, but I would like to have the installed system. Installing went fine, just booting not ^^ Hung up in some very creepy grub console o.O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is a hardware platform, so I'm asking for mainboard (or some controller stuff?) recommendations fitting my needs with dual boot support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a [Dell Studio XPS 8100][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_studio_xps_desktop/studio-xps-8100_user%27s%20guide_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="41497635-e27f-4d0f-a772-b57520a4aeaf" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:36:28.880" UserId="57" Comment="Comment to question migration" Text="I wanted to buy a second Cherry G80-3000LQCDE-2 keyboard for the workplace because I have been very comfortable using it at home for years. However I noticed that it is not available any more, at least in Germany. Can someone shed light on why it was discontinued and what similar (preferably Cherry) keyboard I can get instead? It should be mechanical, affordable, with pressure point (not linear) switches and not too loud. Not bells and whistles, just a keyboard with German layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to https://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_G80-3000, the Q in the LQCDE identifier stands for clear switches so I would prefer ones with similar feel but, if possible, less typing noise.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cherry.de/PDF/DE_G80-3000.pdf does not show this type anymore, however, it only lists ones with black, blue and brown switches. Which ones are more most suitable for my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid 55 € for my old one and don't want to spend much more than that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4077" RevisionGUID="5c671602-03f2-4947-957d-7aebb41bac0a" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:40:08.537" UserId="57" Comment="move comment to answer" Text="Just use an internal Ethernet add-on card. It's a lot better than the USB solution usually...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One (very cheap) example:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5M11TB9358&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Advantages to other solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- works with most motherboards&#xD;&#xA;- better speed than USB 2.0 options&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't take up any USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;- cheaper than many alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has better bandwidth and reliability than the USB options suggested earlier, and it can be cheaply added to ANY motherboard someone else suggests as the solution, which allows total overall cost to be much lower (given that 2x ethernet port motherboards are indeed generally expensive). With an adapter like this, almost any motherboard that supports his chosen CPU will work just fine for your purposes. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4117" RevisionGUID="d71311a2-89d3-4d79-9c38-b77b87910540" CreationDate="2016-07-05T18:05:43.727" UserId="3891" Text="I am interested to build a new desktop PC having as starting point G3258 CPU overclocked at 4-4.5GHz. It's well known the fact that the overclocking subject regarding this CPU it's pretty twisted. I've read different infos telling that once, this CPU was overclockable on Motherboards with B85, H87, H81, Z87, Z97 chipsets; Lately, I've read about a Win 10 update that cut this possibility but not so sure if this will apply on Z chipset Mobos or not(?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, which is in your opinion your Motherboard recommendation let's say mid range price/quality/specs in order to use this CPU in OC mode please? (if there is anyone that use a machine with this CPU overclocked)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12840" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4117" RevisionGUID="d71311a2-89d3-4d79-9c38-b77b87910540" CreationDate="2016-07-05T18:05:43.727" UserId="3891" Text="Motherboard recommendation for G3258 OC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12841" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4117" RevisionGUID="d71311a2-89d3-4d79-9c38-b77b87910540" CreationDate="2016-07-05T18:05:43.727" UserId="3891" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12842" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4117" RevisionGUID="3862c8e7-5e08-4e8b-990e-929bed1dacb8" CreationDate="2016-07-05T18:12:30.120" UserId="3891" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12843" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4117" RevisionGUID="d890ff96-f01e-42f1-9410-3b3e7ec16cfa" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:57:39.380" UserId="3891" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="I am interested to build a new desktop PC having as starting point G3258 CPU overclocked at 4-4.5GHz. It's well known the fact that the overclocking subject regarding this CPU it's pretty twisted. I've read different infos telling that once, this CPU was overclockable on Motherboards with B85, H87, H81, Z87, Z97 chipsets; Lately, I've read about a Win 10 update that cut this possibility but not so sure if this will apply on Z chipset Mobos or not(?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, which is in your opinion your Motherboard recommendation in order to use this CPU in OC mode please? (if there is anyone that use a machine with this CPU overclocked); I've studied these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Z97M-PLUS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Z97-K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASROCK Z97 Anniversary&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;ASROCK Z97 PRO4 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I can't decide..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12844" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4077" RevisionGUID="eaa9e008-3e6f-4ffe-8515-52390db8ad6e" CreationDate="2016-07-06T01:17:58.887" UserId="3836" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="One alternative would be to use an internal Ethernet add-on card. It's a lot better than the USB solution usually...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One (very cheap) example:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5M11TB9358&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Advantages to other solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- works with most motherboards&#xD;&#xA;- better speed than USB 2.0 options&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't take up any USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;- cheaper than many alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has better bandwidth and reliability than the USB options suggested earlier, and it can be cheaply added to ANY motherboard someone else suggests as the solution, which allows total overall cost to be much lower (given that 2x ethernet port motherboards are indeed generally expensive). With an adapter like this, almost any motherboard that supports his chosen CPU will work just fine for your purposes. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4118" RevisionGUID="66e2a09e-c1fa-4ea1-96f2-d0359bc36128" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:10:05.047" UserId="3836" Text="The G3258 is an unlocked processor on the 1150 socket, so it is not subject to all of the recent BIOS hubbub surrounding Intel's crackdown on overclocking non-K processors on the 1151 (Skylake) socket. As such, it is STILL THE CASE that you can overclock your G3258 on ANY 1150 motherboard with a BIOS that supports OCing, Windows 10 or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As such, I recommend the Gigabyte GA-H81M-H. It is a proven overclocker and is currently one of the cheapest boards available for the 1150 socket.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4119" RevisionGUID="6effc1df-fbff-4dc2-a726-63b4c3008158" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:30:39.883" UserId="3894" Text="I have extensive experience with Blender and cycles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 750Ti is about 20% faster than your CPU.&#xD;&#xA;The 950 is about 100% faster than your CPU. (i.e. double the performance)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But currently GPUs render fur a lot slower than CPU, so take that into account if you work with a lot of fur.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the CPU, you get the advantage of having access to all your system RAM (8GB, 16GB, etc). Whereas if you render with a 2GB GPU, it will not render a complex scene that requires more than 2GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would consider the 950, but not the 750Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source: [GPU Benchmark](http://blenchmark.com/gpu-benchmarks), [CPU Benchmark](http://blenchmark.com/cpu-benchmarks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4120" RevisionGUID="d948cd0e-1ab5-402d-95e1-a15844e18190" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:58:44.733" UserId="1388" Text="I want a 3g Modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to work without running the propreitary `install.sh` provided on the modem as a U3 disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to work with open drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought [D-Link DWM-157][1] but it seems to need propreitary drivers and the Windows certificate for the exceutble is revoked cos of a leak of certificates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The companies that are easily available where I live are ZTE, HUAWEI, TP-LInk, D-Link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Go to http://amazon.in and http://ebay.in for checking if the particualr model is available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/426540/3g-d-link-dwm-157-modem-install-on-ubuntu-12-04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4120" RevisionGUID="d948cd0e-1ab5-402d-95e1-a15844e18190" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:58:44.733" UserId="1388" Text="3g modem that works out of the box with Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4120" RevisionGUID="d948cd0e-1ab5-402d-95e1-a15844e18190" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:58:44.733" UserId="1388" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4115" RevisionGUID="5f4ad1e7-3d91-4ab9-98fe-5b180ec9d88d" CreationDate="2016-07-06T06:20:43.547" UserId="3888" Comment="Make it clear that there could be more RAM installed that the OS can't see/use, and that the RAM reported might be iGPU shared RAM" Text="That graphics card is horribly underpowered for any modern game. I would advise you to get a newer/better one (such as a 750Ti). Judging by the release date for the graphics card and 4GB of RAM, I would guess that the entire computer needs an upgrade to run any modern game smoothly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's probably total visible system RAM, and not GPU RAM unless it's the integrated card in the CPU package. the standard configuration for the 8500 GT is 256MB from Nvidia's website.  &#xD;&#xA;to clarify: There may be more RAM installed in the system than can be used by the OS. A 32-bit OS can only see 4GB unless you have PAE available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: There is no way to get a reasonably modern game running smoothly on hardware released in 2007.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Please explain the reason for the downvoting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4122" RevisionGUID="61112bc4-dc03-49ce-a09e-1646169ecb45" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:01:00.643" UserId="17" Text="I need a Z170 or H170 motherboard that allows an M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD and still has one PCIe 3.0 x16 open. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xMkhqk  &#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xMkhqk/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($200.00)   &#xD;&#xA;Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($104.99 @ Newegg)   &#xD;&#xA;Storage: Samsung SM951 128GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($105.99 @ Amazon)   &#xD;&#xA;Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)   &#xD;&#xA;Monitor: Dell P2415Q 23.8&quot; 60Hz Monitor  ($280.00)   &#xD;&#xA;Total: $760.97  &#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available  &#xD;&#xA;Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-06 06:12 EDT-0400  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4122" RevisionGUID="61112bc4-dc03-49ce-a09e-1646169ecb45" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:01:00.643" UserId="17" Text="Z170 or H170 motherboard with M.2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4122" RevisionGUID="61112bc4-dc03-49ce-a09e-1646169ecb45" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:01:00.643" UserId="17" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="b9530127-60e5-46ee-9b4b-f54133c07683" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:56:18.323" UserId="3867" Text="I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12865" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="b9530127-60e5-46ee-9b4b-f54133c07683" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:56:18.323" UserId="3867" Text="How does the performance of current i7 CPU's compare to i7 920?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12866" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="b9530127-60e5-46ee-9b4b-f54133c07683" CreationDate="2016-07-06T11:56:18.323" UserId="3867" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12867" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="92131abc-3238-4d8e-a7f8-d3fad35e346e" CreationDate="2016-07-06T12:02:49.137" UserId="3867" Comment="added 373 characters in body" Text="I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Appendix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some info here which compares intel i7 920 to 6700K and 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-920-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the info on this website makes no sense. They conclude that they recommend the 6700K even though it performs worse in single process and mutli-process tests. I personally do not think this is a reliable source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4126" RevisionGUID="187b5a08-77f8-4796-9325-da44cb14a158" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:10:10.907" UserId="3867" Text="I am looking for recommendations for an air cooling solution which will fit either LGA 1366 or LGA 775 motherboard mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I am looking for the best performance, but certainly want something quieter than the stock intel cooler. (Which makes a horrendous racket.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have heard that Akasa coolers perform well. See this link. (However this is quite outdated now.) http://www.theregister.co.uk/2009/07/07/review_accessory_cpu_coolers/?page=7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of price, of course the lower the better. I would prefer not to spend more than about $60 or 50GDP. If I end up spending that much I guess I might as well but a Zalman CNPS8900, which I have heard also performs well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12871" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4126" RevisionGUID="187b5a08-77f8-4796-9325-da44cb14a158" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:10:10.907" UserId="3867" Text="LGA 775 / LGA 1366 Heatsink Air Cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12872" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4126" RevisionGUID="187b5a08-77f8-4796-9325-da44cb14a158" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:10:10.907" UserId="3867" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="9148fd74-36ff-4c16-b804-269ada6f2d01" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:19:44.043" UserId="3867" Comment="added 1341 characters in body" Text="I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ (Since this is perhaps subjective, what I really want to know is measurements of the performance difference.) And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Subsequently Added Info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using my system for data processing. Typically this involves a small number of CPU operations on large (~ 6 terrabytes) quantities of data. As a consequence, performance is usually limited by memory bandwidth and disk bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disk bandwidth is typically a problem which you can either deal with in an effective way by changing how your code works (eg; parallelize it so less time is spend loading data from disk), or you can't deal with at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory bandwidth is subject to a large number of things. In my experience, 3 channel memory will ensure exactly 3 times more bandwidth than an identical system in single channel mode. I would assume intel have reverted to average consumer CPU's being dual channel because most users, even gamers, probably do not run up against memory bottlenecks in the everyday use of their computers. Having &quot;more megahertz&quot; in your RAM is often only useful if your CPU/motherboard combination can run at those higher speeds. For example, the motherboard I am using with the i7 920 has memory speeds of 1066 / 1333 Mhz, and up to 1866 Mhz as &quot;overclock&quot;. But I could never get anywhere near that. 1333 was sometimes a challenge, and the memory I was using was rated 1600 Mhz...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Appendix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some info here which compares intel i7 920 to 6700K and 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-920-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the info on this website makes no sense. They conclude that they recommend the 6700K even though it performs worse in single process and mutli-process tests. I personally do not think this is a reliable source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4126" RevisionGUID="09953b32-4930-4001-b531-3112d0515bb7" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:20:49.110" UserId="3867" Comment="added 101 characters in body" Text="I am looking for recommendations for an air cooling solution which will fit either LGA 1366 or LGA 775 motherboard mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I am looking for the best performance, but certainly want something quieter than the stock intel cooler. (Which makes a horrendous racket.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have heard that Akasa coolers perform well. See this link. (However this is quite outdated now.) http://www.theregister.co.uk/2009/07/07/review_accessory_cpu_coolers/?page=7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of price, of course the lower the better. I would prefer not to spend more than about $60 or 50GDP. If I end up spending that much I guess I might as well but a Zalman CNPS8900, which I have heard also performs well. Edit: Just read some more about the CNPS8900 - apparently its very noisy when running at full speed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4127" RevisionGUID="ea1c53e9-874f-44b2-a030-d5cee8175765" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:06:28.393" UserId="3836" Text="Xeon and Opteron processors are the ONLY modern x86 processors on the market capable of running in tandem. All other CPU brands (Celeron, Pentium, Core iX, Sempron, Athlon, FX, AX) are incapable of running on tandem motherboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, it would not be unreasonable to make an entry-level gaming PC based on the G1840 CPU. Because you are looking at the absolute cheapest CPU available on a modern socket, I am going to assume extreme budget constraint - you could do something like this, using SteamOS or Linux as your OS to get started with gaming: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Celeron G1840 2.8GHz Dual-Core Processor  ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz)  &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Biostar B85MG Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($47.98 @ Newegg)  &#xD;&#xA; - Memory: PNY Anarchy 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($23.98 @ Newegg)  &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($22.25 @ Amazon)  &#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card  ($99.99 @ Newegg)  &#xD;&#xA; - Case: DIYPC M89-R MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($23.99 @ Newegg)  &#xD;&#xA; - Power Supply: Raidmax 380W ATX Power Supply  ($19.99 @ SuperBiiz)  Total: $278.17&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you might consider looking into an AMD APU option, as most of their A6, A8, and A10 desktop processors are vastly more powerful than the Celeron G1840, and come with integrated graphics that are actually useful for light gaming. For example, the A8-7600 is much faster than this Celeron on average, yet it also features an integrated GPU capable of comfortably handling games like CS:GO, League of Legends, or most Rocket League at high settings and framerates at 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="87701563-4c3b-487e-84f1-698bb59ec25a" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:19:16.143" UserId="1400" Text="Can someone recommend a Wireless N PCI Card (not PCIe) for pfSense 2.3.1 that is based on FreeBSD 10.3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="87701563-4c3b-487e-84f1-698bb59ec25a" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:19:16.143" UserId="1400" Text="Wireless N PCI Card for pfSense 2.3.1?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="87701563-4c3b-487e-84f1-698bb59ec25a" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:19:16.143" UserId="1400" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4129" RevisionGUID="409ad15e-6c9b-46e7-9e1d-3304a6298e75" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:33:47.277" UserId="3836" Text="Passmark is a better benchmark than that cpuboss, which basically just scrapes data from other sources: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=834&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2367&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2565&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see in that lineup, paying close attention to the Single Thread rating, even AMD CPUs are substantially more powerful than the i7-920 today, and the i7-6700K absolutely annihilates both AMD's common offerings and the older i7-920. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, to address some of your other concerns, which may end up being much more important to you than just comparing the absolute performance numbers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hyperthreading is not always useful. What it does is allow a single CPU core to process two program &quot;threads&quot; simultaneously at a small hit to its overall performance. In situations where your workload can take advantage of parallel processing, adding threads can nearly double your performance. But in situations where your workload doesn't make use of more threads than cores on your CPU, hyperthreading will offer you NO speed advantages, and may in some edge cases result in LOWER performance. This is why Hyperthreading has seen limited adoption - it is no substitute for more cores and even then, many applications are not/cannot be parallelized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your workload leans heavily on RAM and disk performance - your CPU will probably not be the &quot;bottleneck&quot; in your system (the part everything has to wait on in order for work to get done). My guess, given that you have triple channel RAM, is that your bottleneck will be with storage - and this kind of puts you in a good position, because the upgrades I'm about to go over would be things you'd end up needing whether you upgraded your current system or moved to a whole new architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In modern computers there are a wide variety of methods for speeding up disk read and write. I will go over the two options which make sense for you, using a desktop PC, assuming all data is local to that PC (not stored remotely on a network):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Tiered storage - you can use a combination of RAMDisks, SSDs, and HDDs to cache your storage, enabling chunks of your total dataset to be processed very quickly. This is a relatively simple solution to set up, and is limited only by the filesize you need to be working on at any given time, because RAM and SSDs are expensive storage solutions compared to HDDs and it can be prohibitively expensive to build a cache capable of storing terabytes of data all at once - it would be better to have, say, a 1gb RAMDisk cache paired with a 32gb SSD cache, managed by some cheap software like PrimoCache, moving files on and off your HDD array as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. RAID - you can really speed up your HDD array by putting them behind some good, quality hardware RAID. Dropping an old SAS to SATA II MegaRAID controller into your PCI-E 16x slot could provide you with a way of creating a RAID0 or (ideally) RAID10 array that moves data with a small built-in RAMcache for dedicated writeback performance storage behavior. These older RAID controller cards can often be had on ebay for under $100, which can make it a more cost-effective option than building a working tiered storage system. It is harder to set up, though, requiring you to have a good understanding of how RAID levels work and how to set up your system to play nicely with the RAID array you end up creating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either of these options can be deployed into your old PC or a new replacement, but you'll probably want one or the other no matter which way you go. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12882" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="e12fca80-7104-4d3a-bee8-e82eb47cab3e" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:33:57.020" UserId="54" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;pfsense&gt;&lt;freebsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="b88dcf54-43fd-41e5-9362-1a36e543f186" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:42:40.047" UserId="1400" Comment="edited title" Text="Wireless N PCI Card for pfSense 2.3.1 AP?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4132" RevisionGUID="6bb39b46-3b07-4990-92ac-b947fad2fcc1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T18:54:32.140" UserId="3891" Text="I have a recommendation for you, I already have two (@home and @office) pretty good stuff just received the second one these days :)) Available in black version too just search using that name. I also still enjoy the wired version. Hope that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Mini-78-Key-Ultra-thin-USB-Wired-Keyboard-for-Laptop-PC-White-Sliver][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-78-Key-Ultra-thin-USB-Wired-Keyboard-for-Laptop-PC-White-Sliver-/272208003646" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4132" RevisionGUID="d42f30ea-ddd6-44d4-98fe-9fde01d873a7" CreationDate="2016-07-06T19:03:11.897" UserId="3891" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="I have a recommendation for you, I already have two (@home and @office) pretty good stuff. Available in black version too just search using that name. I also still enjoy the wired version. Depending on your location you can find that model in other countries too. If you want more real pictures just let me know. Hope that helps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Mini-78-Key-Ultra-thin-USB-Wired-Keyboard-for-Laptop-PC-White-Sliver][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-78-Key-Ultra-thin-USB-Wired-Keyboard-for-Laptop-PC-White-Sliver-/272208003646" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4133" RevisionGUID="21e53278-f2ed-49e0-ae4e-7eebbb23eb7c" CreationDate="2016-07-06T20:24:57.820" UserId="3841" Text="I'm searching for a good **headset** for gaming and hearing music. And I don't know which headsets are good and which aren't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To specify my question, I'm searching for a headset, that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is good for gaming / hearing music (good sound quality)&#xD;&#xA;- costs between 100€ and 200€&#xD;&#xA;- is well-made (lasts for a long time)&#xD;&#xA;- supports 600ohm soundcard&#xD;&#xA;- is made out of metal (e.g. aluminium) [not really needed if it's well-made]&#xD;&#xA;- has a good microphone for recording + teamspeak&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope somebody knows something that fits these &quot;requirements&quot;. If possible, the headset can also have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a controller&#xD;&#xA;- led lights&#xD;&#xA;- a black and red color scheme&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already taken a look at some things and thought about buying a **beyerdynamics MMX 300** but this costs too much and is literally just a headset with a microphone. Another headset I thought would be good is an **Astro a40** but this would be a little bit too expensive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4133" RevisionGUID="21e53278-f2ed-49e0-ae4e-7eebbb23eb7c" CreationDate="2016-07-06T20:24:57.820" UserId="3841" Text="Searching for a good gaming-headset (gaming and music)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4133" RevisionGUID="21e53278-f2ed-49e0-ae4e-7eebbb23eb7c" CreationDate="2016-07-06T20:24:57.820" UserId="3841" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4134" RevisionGUID="9cc3a332-f30f-4912-88f1-5aef4258b261" CreationDate="2016-07-06T20:49:17.537" UserId="476" Text="&gt; Are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Cinebench][1] ([benchmarks][2]) (6700k performs 72% better)&#xD;&#xA; 2. [3DMark][3] ([benchmarks][4]) ([comparison][5]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) (6700k performs 33% better)&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Passmark][6] ([comparison][7]&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) (6700k performs 122% better)&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Mixed Benchmarks by AnandTech][8] ([comparison][9]) (6700k performs 85% better average)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Marketing&#xD;&#xA; 2. It costs them money to add it&#xD;&#xA; 3. Demand isn't high because ridiculous amounts of threads aren't particularly useful in most situations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Most of the work I do is memory bandwidth constrained.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory bandwidth depends on your motherboard and your CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[i7 920][10]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Bandwidth - 25.6 GB/s&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Types - DDR3 800Mhz/1066Mhz&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Channels - 3&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Max - 24 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[i7 6700k][11]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Bandwidth - 34.1 GB/s&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Types - DDR3L 1333Mz/1600Mhz &amp; DDR4 1866Mhz/2133Mhz&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Channels - 2&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Max 64 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Footnotes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You are mostly looking at Physics score&#xD;&#xA; 2. Not necessarily reliable &#xD;&#xA; 3. Does not support your current RAM&#xD;&#xA; 4. This is a downgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.maxon.net/products/cinebench/overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://cbscores.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.3dmark.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.3dmark.com/search&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.3dmark.com/compare/sd/3384093/sd/3353656&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_list.php&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=834&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2565&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/62&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/47?vs=1550&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://ark.intel.com/products/37147/Intel-Core-i7-920-Processor-8M-Cache-2_66-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4134" RevisionGUID="bf95daf1-17e0-4adc-bbad-301c96895f86" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:05:21.977" UserId="476" Comment="added post writing" Text="&gt; Are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Cinebench][1] ([benchmarks][2]) (6700k performs 72% better)&#xD;&#xA; 2. [3DMark][3] ([benchmarks][4]) ([comparison][5]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) (6700k performs 33% better)&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Passmark][6] ([comparison][7]&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) (6700k performs 122% better)&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Mixed Benchmarks by AnandTech][8] ([comparison][9]) (6700k performs 85% better average)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Marketing&#xD;&#xA; 2. It costs them money to add it&#xD;&#xA; 3. Demand isn't high because ridiculous amounts of threads aren't particularly useful in most situations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Most of the work I do is memory bandwidth constrained.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory bandwidth depends on your motherboard and your CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[i7 920][10]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Bandwidth - 25.6 GB/s&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Types - DDR3 800Mhz/1066Mhz&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Channels - 3&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Max - 24 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[i7 6700k][11]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Bandwidth - 34.1 GB/s&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Types - DDR3L 1333Mz/1600Mhz &amp; DDR4 1866Mhz/2133Mhz&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Channels - 2&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA; * RAM Max 64 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Footnotes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. You are mostly looking at Physics score&#xD;&#xA; 2. Not necessarily reliable &#xD;&#xA; 3. Does not support your current RAM&#xD;&#xA; 4. This is a downgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, CPUBoss is about the worst site for comparisons there is; same goes for GPUBoss. They simply give biased opinions on processors, i.e. any *new* Intel processors are considered superior to old ones, and almost every Intel processor is onsidered superior to AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.maxon.net/products/cinebench/overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://cbscores.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.3dmark.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.3dmark.com/search&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.3dmark.com/compare/sd/3384093/sd/3353656&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_list.php&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=834&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2565&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/62&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/47?vs=1550&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://ark.intel.com/products/37147/Intel-Core-i7-920-Processor-8M-Cache-2_66-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4136" RevisionGUID="e957c7ec-67d4-4f7a-bb76-5eb599f45f18" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:21:24.187" UserId="2172" Text="So far, it appears the only thing I can get if I want a device that's even *remotely* modern is the [Blackberry Priv](http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/overview.html), but I could be wrong, hence the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hard requirements (it's a dealbreaker without them):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard, as mentioned in the topic. Touch screen keyboards *suck*.&#xD;&#xA;* Decent app ecosystem (this eliminates all other BB devices)&#xD;&#xA;* OS that still gets security updates&#xD;&#xA;* Good performance (the UI should not hitch and stutter under daily use)&#xD;&#xA;* Supported on the Verizon network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondary concerns (nice to haves):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can be rooted/jailbroken&#xD;&#xA;* At least a 1080p screen&#xD;&#xA;* Battery life should last a full day under light use&#xD;&#xA;* OS still gets feature updates&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price no object; nearly any phone can be had via carrier discounts or secondhand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12902" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4136" RevisionGUID="e957c7ec-67d4-4f7a-bb76-5eb599f45f18" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:21:24.187" UserId="2172" Text="Modern smartphone with a physical keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4136" RevisionGUID="e957c7ec-67d4-4f7a-bb76-5eb599f45f18" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:21:24.187" UserId="2172" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4137" RevisionGUID="a96d1989-f197-4692-a9a7-5a6610eeed30" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:16:42.637" UserId="3876" Text="I am building a new server. The existing server has what I consider a very nice case (for my needs). It is 10 years old but in like-new condition. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want some advice on keeping that case and PSU (while replacing the motherboard, CPUs, storage, memory and almost everything else).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing case is an Intel® 5U Server Chassis with dual 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies, hot swappable fan modules, hot-swappable drive bays and more. I believe the chassis is from the Intel®  SC5400 Family. It was originally sold as a Gateway E-9510T Server R1 [Part #WME876246]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the 5U rack conversion kit, and I have a place for it in the rack. Space is not a problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This document appears to reference the same chassis I have (and it includes some diagrams so you can get an idea what it looks like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Word - TPS_SC5400_Rev_1 0_AJ2.doc - sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;ftp://ftp.actina.pl/sterowniki/www/Dokumentacja/S5000PSL/sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![case-1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power supplies look like this (except 730 Watt): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR19214&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **potential problems** with the case are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the fans are very loud, so I would have to replace them with something quiet&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are for SCSI disks; I will be using SSDs for fast storage&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are SATA, but not the latest SATA standard; I will be using multiple Seagate 8 TB Archive SATA III HDDs instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest question is whether the 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies are worth keeping. I will be using a Super Micro X10DAL motherboard with dual Xeon E5 26XX v3 CPUs. Will these older PSU output clean enough power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: **Should I try to reuse this Intel Server Chassis for my new build?** Or is it just too outdated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I don't, I'll be using a standard PC case with a normal PSU (not a server chassis). Nothing will be hot-swappable. The case I'll go with is a Fractal Design Define R5 and the PSU will be an EVGA Supernova T2 1000W 80+ Titanium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dljsi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TCW3A.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12905" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4137" RevisionGUID="a96d1989-f197-4692-a9a7-5a6610eeed30" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:16:42.637" UserId="3876" Text="Server case upgrade?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4137" RevisionGUID="a96d1989-f197-4692-a9a7-5a6610eeed30" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:16:42.637" UserId="3876" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12907" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4137" RevisionGUID="d6820607-2203-494a-8ed8-9d11fabee309" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:50:02.850" UserId="3876" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="I am building a new server. The existing server has what I consider a very nice case (for my needs). It is 10 years old but in like-new condition. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want some advice on keeping that case and PSU (while replacing the motherboard, CPUs, storage, memory and almost everything else).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing case is an Intel® 5U Server Chassis with dual 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies, hot swappable fan modules, hot-swappable drive bays and more. I believe the chassis is from the Intel®  SC5400 Family. It was originally sold as a Gateway E-9510T Server R1 [Part #WME876246]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the 5U rack conversion kit, and I have a place for it in the rack. Space is not a problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This document appears to reference the same chassis I have (and it includes some diagrams so you can get an idea what it looks like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Word - TPS_SC5400_Rev_1 0_AJ2.doc - sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;ftp://ftp.actina.pl/sterowniki/www/Dokumentacja/S5000PSL/sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![case-1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power supplies look like this (except 730 Watt): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR19214&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **potential problems** with the case are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the fans are very loud, so I would have to replace them with something quiet&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are for SCSI disks; I will be using SSDs for fast storage&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are SATA, but not the latest SATA standard; I will be using multiple Seagate 8 TB Archive SATA III HDDs instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest question is whether the 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies are worth keeping. I will be using a Super Micro X10DAL motherboard with dual Xeon E5 26XX v3 CPUs. Will these older PSU output clean enough power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: **Should I try to reuse this Intel Server Chassis for my new build?** Or is it just too outdated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I don't, I'll be using a standard PC case with a normal PSU (not a server chassis). Nothing will be hot-swappable and I won't have redundant PSU. The case I'll go with is a Fractal Design Define R5 and the PSU will be an EVGA Supernova T2 1000W 80+ Titanium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dljsi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TCW3A.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4137" RevisionGUID="85e954bb-5288-4d4e-8ff7-1df177206b6f" CreationDate="2016-07-07T03:03:56.167" UserId="3876" Comment="spare parts on hand" Text="I am building a new server. The existing server has what I consider a very nice case (for my needs). It is 10 years old but in like-new condition. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want some advice on keeping that case and PSU (while replacing the motherboard, CPUs, storage, memory and almost everything else).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing case is an Intel® 5U Server Chassis with dual 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies, hot swappable fan modules, hot-swappable drive bays and more. I believe the chassis is from the Intel®  SC5400 Family. It was originally sold as a Gateway E-9510T Server R1 [Part #WME876246]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the 5U rack conversion kit, and I have a place for it in the rack. Space is not a problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This document appears to reference the same chassis I have (and it includes some diagrams so you can get an idea what it looks like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Word - TPS_SC5400_Rev_1 0_AJ2.doc - sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;ftp://ftp.actina.pl/sterowniki/www/Dokumentacja/S5000PSL/sc5400_tps_rev10.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![case-1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power supplies look like this (except 730 Watt): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR19214&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **potential problems** with the case are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the fans are very loud, so I would have to replace them with something quiet&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are for SCSI disks; I will be using SSDs for fast storage&#xD;&#xA;- half of the hot-swappable drive bays are SATA, but not the latest SATA standard; I will be using multiple Seagate 8 TB Archive SATA III HDDs instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest question is whether the 730 W RPS hot-swappable redundant power supplies are worth keeping. I will be using a Super Micro X10DAL motherboard with dual Xeon E5 26XX v3 CPUs. Will these older PSU output clean enough power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also relevant: I have a complete spare case, which gives me 2 more PSU in case I have a failure as well as a spare of every other part I might need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: **Should I try to reuse this Intel Server Chassis for my new build?** Or is it just too outdated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I don't, I'll be using a standard PC case with a normal PSU (not a server chassis). Nothing will be hot-swappable and I won't have redundant PSU. The case I'll go with is a Fractal Design Define R5 and the PSU will be an EVGA Supernova T2 1000W 80+ Titanium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dljsi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TCW3A.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12911" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4110" RevisionGUID="2652ec23-7b12-46cc-b3ea-dbf8101296de" CreationDate="2016-07-07T04:11:48.933" UserId="3884" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Not sure if this is the best forum for this. If it is not, can you point me in the general direction of the best one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to play a video game that needs 1GB of dedicated RAM to the graphics card. When I use the &quot;Can I run it&quot; site, it tells me that there is only 32 MB of dedicated graphics RAM. When I run the game it is unbearably choppy and I am not able to play it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have included Device Manager and dxdiag screenshots. The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics. I have checked all the drivers, they are up to date. I have attempted to go in to the BIOS and change the amount, as recommended by some Google searchage, but there is no option in there that I can find. I've selected every single option I can, just in case it's lurking somewhere I wouldn't expect to find it. Is there anything else that I can do, other than replacing the card, to satisfy the game requirements? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/H8V9K.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12912" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4133" RevisionGUID="12d8770f-c115-43b3-9905-b10efa30c42e" CreationDate="2016-07-07T05:17:31.600" UserId="3841" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a good **headset** for gaming and hearing music. And I don't know which headsets are good and which aren't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To specify my question, I'm searching for a headset, that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is good for gaming / hearing music (good sound quality)&#xD;&#xA;- costs between 100€ and 200€&#xD;&#xA;- is well-made (lasts for a long time)&#xD;&#xA;- supports 600ohm soundcard&#xD;&#xA;- is made out of metal (e.g. aluminium) [not really needed if it's well-made]&#xD;&#xA;- has a good microphone for recording + teamspeak&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope somebody knows something that fits these &quot;requirements&quot;. If possible, the headset can also have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a controller&#xD;&#xA;- led lights&#xD;&#xA;- a black and red color scheme&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already taken a look at some things and thought about buying a **beyerdynamics MMX 300** but this costs too much and is literally just a headset with a microphone. Another headset I thought would be good is an **Astro a40** but this would be a little bit too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If you think I can't get everything I want with this budet, let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4133" RevisionGUID="06695c01-d765-48b1-a332-d7c8c74ab781" CreationDate="2016-07-07T09:37:15.760" UserId="3841" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm searching for a good **headset** for gaming and hearing music. And I don't know which headsets are good and which aren't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To specify my question, I'm searching for a headset, that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is good for gaming / hearing music (good sound quality)&#xD;&#xA;- costs between 100€ and 200€&#xD;&#xA;- is well-made (lasts for a long time)&#xD;&#xA;- supports 600ohm soundcard&#xD;&#xA;- is made out of metal (e.g. aluminium) [not really needed if it's well-made]&#xD;&#xA;- has a good microphone for recording + teamspeak&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope somebody knows something that fits these &quot;requirements&quot;. If possible, the headset can also have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a controller&#xD;&#xA;- led lights&#xD;&#xA;- a black and red color scheme&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already taken a look at some things and thought about buying a **beyerdynamics MMX 300** but this costs too much and is literally just a headset with a microphone. Another headset I thought would be good is an **Astro a40** but this would be a little bit too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If you think I can't get everything I want with this budget, let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4138" RevisionGUID="0641f36c-bc59-490b-be95-7c992e999406" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:08:02.597" UserId="3902" Text="Not so easy to find Gaming headset with 600ohm. I know the Sennheiser HMD 26-II-600-X3K1 but it's out of your range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;600ohm is better but it doesn't mean that you cannot use lower impedence headset (http://www.cnet.com/news/headphone-buyers-heres-what-you-need-to-know-about-low-vs-high-impedance-models/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this, going for the HyperX Cloud Revolver might be a good solution because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - In your price range (130€)&#xD;&#xA; - Good reviews (espcially on sound and mic)&#xD;&#xA; - Steel and well made&#xD;&#xA; - LEDs&#xD;&#xA; - Controller&#xD;&#xA; - Black and red&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12915" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4129" RevisionGUID="86e97112-39e4-4733-a987-4b85393c111b" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:10:34.217" UserId="476" Comment="Fixed link." Text="**[Passmark][1]** is a better benchmark than that cpuboss, which basically just scrapes data from other sources. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see in that lineup, paying close attention to the Single Thread rating, even AMD CPUs are substantially more powerful than the i7-920 today, and the i7-6700K absolutely annihilates both AMD's common offerings and the older i7-920. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, to address some of your other concerns, which may end up being much more important to you than just comparing the absolute performance numbers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hyperthreading is not always useful. What it does is allow a single CPU core to process two program &quot;threads&quot; simultaneously at a small hit to its overall performance. In situations where your workload can take advantage of parallel processing, adding threads can nearly double your performance. But in situations where your workload doesn't make use of more threads than cores on your CPU, hyperthreading will offer you NO speed advantages, and may in some edge cases result in LOWER performance. This is why Hyperthreading has seen limited adoption - it is no substitute for more cores and even then, many applications are not/cannot be parallelized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your workload leans heavily on RAM and disk performance - your CPU will probably not be the &quot;bottleneck&quot; in your system (the part everything has to wait on in order for work to get done). My guess, given that you have triple channel RAM, is that your bottleneck will be with storage - and this kind of puts you in a good position, because the upgrades I'm about to go over would be things you'd end up needing whether you upgraded your current system or moved to a whole new architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In modern computers there are a wide variety of methods for speeding up disk read and write. I will go over the two options which make sense for you, using a desktop PC, assuming all data is local to that PC (not stored remotely on a network):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Tiered storage - you can use a combination of RAMDisks, SSDs, and HDDs to cache your storage, enabling chunks of your total dataset to be processed very quickly. This is a relatively simple solution to set up, and is limited only by the filesize you need to be working on at any given time, because RAM and SSDs are expensive storage solutions compared to HDDs and it can be prohibitively expensive to build a cache capable of storing terabytes of data all at once - it would be better to have, say, a 1gb RAMDisk cache paired with a 32gb SSD cache, managed by some cheap software like PrimoCache, moving files on and off your HDD array as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. RAID - you can really speed up your HDD array by putting them behind some good, quality hardware RAID. Dropping an old SAS to SATA II MegaRAID controller into your PCI-E 16x slot could provide you with a way of creating a RAID0 or (ideally) RAID10 array that moves data with a small built-in RAMcache for dedicated writeback performance storage behavior. These older RAID controller cards can often be had on ebay for under $100, which can make it a more cost-effective option than building a working tiered storage system. It is harder to set up, though, requiring you to have a good understanding of how RAID levels work and how to set up your system to play nicely with the RAID array you end up creating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either of these options can be deployed into your old PC or a new replacement, but you'll probably want one or the other no matter which way you go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=834&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2367&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2565" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4060" RevisionGUID="6eced126-ad00-46ce-8943-40193619440f" CreationDate="2016-07-07T13:49:17.640" UserId="3842" Comment="deleted 84 characters in body" Text="I wanted to build a home NAS server (running FreeBSD and ZFS). I used the Intel Pentium Processor G2020T (22 nm, Processor Base Frequency @2.5 GHz) with the hope that it would have at 22nm performance equivalent to its i-Family brothers for non-graphics/gaming applications. The machine also got a respectable motherboard and 8GB DDR3 RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is mainly &quot;academic&quot;: I would like to know if a powerful graphics card would &quot;take over&quot; all the graphics handling tasks so that the CPU graphics would not matter. In other words can a good Video card compensate for the graphics subsystem that is lacking from the processor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks and apologies if any of my questions are incorrect for lack of deeper knowledge in the field.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12917" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="7e5a08c8-ce69-4cdd-9a87-fbdabf265db7" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:44:47.800" UserId="3890" Comment="Added more details" Text="As a local government, we generate lots of paper documents and currently are experiencing issues typical with storing them in paper form.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know a digital solution would be best, but for judicial reasons, I can only store them on microfiche. So, I am researching an enterprise (both hardware &amp; software) solution for storing/archiving paper documents.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4139" RevisionGUID="e30337d9-d28e-42e3-ba12-c38f3470cee7" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:48:49.667" UserId="1400" Text="Do you have any suggestions for a cheap device that can be plugged into the LAN NIC of a pfSense Box, and allow for ip addresses to be dolled out via it's DHCP Server?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm trying to filter internet access using the pfSense proxy server, I'm currently using a pretty good router to do this same thing, and I was looking for a cheaper alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pfSense / FreeBSD doesn't play well with wireless NICs, which is the reasoning behind the setup." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12919" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4139" RevisionGUID="e30337d9-d28e-42e3-ba12-c38f3470cee7" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:48:49.667" UserId="1400" Text="Suggestion for a cheap device that can be plugged into the LAN end of a pfSense Router and allow wireless devices to connect?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12920" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4139" RevisionGUID="e30337d9-d28e-42e3-ba12-c38f3470cee7" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:48:49.667" UserId="1400" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4140" RevisionGUID="b86db74e-2bc1-454c-8d37-756edede72f2" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:07:27.663" UserId="203" Text="I'll recommend a card based on the newly released Polaris architecture. The [RX 470][1] seem to fit your needs nicely, considering you don't plan on gaming.&#xA;&#xA;The reference version has 3 DP and 1 HDMI output. Unfortunately, since it is a gaming card,  it is unlikely to be passively cooled, however, most 3rd party cooler designs will be semipassive, which switches off the fans at low load, which is almost as good. They are still very quiet, potentially much quieter than your case fans. &#xA;&#xA;Since the TDP is only 100 W, you could also get a high end passive cooler, such as the [Accelero S3][2] for an extra USD 55, provided you're willing to install it yourself.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/2861/radeon-rx-470 &quot;techpowerup gpuDB&quot;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-s3.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4111" RevisionGUID="c973bd0d-a329-4fe7-80e2-0b66e92a8fe1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:58:18.940" UserId="-1" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="12942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4147" RevisionGUID="f5e65ece-a0b3-4bdd-9430-413e8426f9ae" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:18:15.267" UserId="912" Text="I want a **heavy, wired** gaming mice. It need the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Must be wired&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Must be heavy (120g - 150g)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Must have at least 2 programmable buttons on the side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Must cost no more than CAD$90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Must be from a reputable brand (e.g. Logitech, Razer, Steelseries, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Must have lighting, preferably RGB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. Must be big, around the size of the Logitech G602 or Razer Deathadder 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like recommendations, preferably with links to Canadian retailers (such as NCIX, Canada Computers, Memory Express, etc.)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4147" RevisionGUID="f5e65ece-a0b3-4bdd-9430-413e8426f9ae" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:18:15.267" UserId="912" Text="Heavy, Wired Gaming Mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4147" RevisionGUID="f5e65ece-a0b3-4bdd-9430-413e8426f9ae" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:18:15.267" UserId="912" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12945" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4115" RevisionGUID="b0a85a3d-1bb8-46ab-96f4-185fbe5f4f89" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:23:21.513" UserId="3888" Comment="changing in accordance to updated question with more info" Text="That graphics card is horribly underpowered for any modern game. I would advise you to get a newer/better one (such as a 750Ti). It would be better to just plug the monitor into the mainboard graphics plug, as even intel's integrated GPU will outperform the 8500 GT and *might* be able to play some modern games somewhat smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: There is no way to get a reasonably modern game running smoothly on hardware released in 2007.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: If you downvoted, please explain why" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4148" RevisionGUID="8fbf6c75-8d34-4b29-a151-019ec357fec1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T00:55:49.430" UserId="3888" Text="I would personally recommend Ubiquiti's UniFi line of infrastructure, which is rather inexpensive and is actually pretty good from what I've seen of it. The [UniFi AP](https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/) ([Store page](https://store.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap.html)) should be suited for what you want. They would need to be configured by a device running their controller software though (which could be a raspberry pi or other cheap computer.) A tutorial for setting up the pfSense control webserver on the pi can be found [here](https://erikvanpaassen.tweakblogs.net/blog/12480/turning-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-unifi-controller-appliance-%28unifi-4-raspbian-jessie-oracle-java-8%29) if you wish to use a pi for that task." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4147" RevisionGUID="02f274c4-2c2a-4291-91f0-95e1617ac194" CreationDate="2016-07-08T01:01:46.893" UserId="912" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I want a **heavy, wired** gaming mice. It need the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Must be wired&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Must be heavy (120g - 150g), having removable weights would be great&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Must have at least 2 programmable buttons on the side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Must cost no more than CAD$90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Must be from a reputable brand (e.g. Logitech, Razer, Steelseries, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Must have lighting, preferably RGB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. Must be big, around the size of the Logitech G602 or Razer Deathadder 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like recommendations, preferably with links to Canadian retailers (such as NCIX, Canada Computers, Memory Express, etc.)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4149" RevisionGUID="5004a2ae-5f8e-44d8-9f7a-9f2f67a0ff91" CreationDate="2016-07-08T06:48:01.923" UserId="3902" Text="The issue is that two displays in 4K is only supported (from what I know and at the moment) by gaming cards... So in this case, you can forget cheap, passive etc. X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, did you consider using 2 GPU? The Radeon R7 250 passive (~70€) can display in 4K. In this case, 2 GPU isn't that expensive and will support 2 displays." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4150" RevisionGUID="223fb841-1e1a-4d67-8f08-76b77dd6ead1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T06:59:38.410" UserId="3902" Text="The new Blackberry Priv runs Android and has a physical keyboard, 4K display, Snapdragon 808 and 3GB of ram (so it should not be slow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its the closest thing from what you are looking for I guess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4151" RevisionGUID="81f5f7bc-f2b4-468a-800a-662413a540d1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T07:13:50.950" UserId="3909" Text="I am looking to buy a gaming laptop. I own a 15.6 inch laptop and it works perfectly fine for me. I don't travel much either so a 17 inch laptop is also not a problem, but as a last resort of my online research I want to see if there is any 15-16 inch laptop. My eyes are set on this laptop, I wish I could find an exact same laptop like this, but with 15-16 inch screen size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Asus ROG G751JT-WH71](https://www.amazon.com/Republic-G751JT-WH71-WX-17-Inch-Windows/dp/B015QZVAF2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also for the given price range around $1200 or less, is there any better gaming laptop that you would recommend? I also plan to use it for media creation like stuff from Adobe products, and 3D stuff from Maya, Blender etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4151" RevisionGUID="81f5f7bc-f2b4-468a-800a-662413a540d1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T07:13:50.950" UserId="3909" Text="Is there any 15-16 inch screen sized gaming laptop with gtx 970m with?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12953" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4151" RevisionGUID="81f5f7bc-f2b4-468a-800a-662413a540d1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T07:13:50.950" UserId="3909" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4152" RevisionGUID="1d7e5f9d-405c-4470-a371-e574b1b94f5a" CreationDate="2016-07-08T08:50:47.497" UserId="3902" Text="Well, I cannot comment thus I write here: becarful, in the MSI Apache Pro link given by JetStream, the first (and less expensive version) is using a i5. According to what you want to do (media work with Adobe suite etc. wich, in addition to a good GPU, will take advantage of the 2 additionals cores provided by the i7 over the i5), I'd rather go for the i76700HQ/GTX970 version ;) its still in your price range ! (indeed, it has 1TB HDD instead of 256GB SSD, but you can still change that later)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer to your question about MSI: yes, it is a really good brand. There products (espcially laptops) are not that beautiful but the best adjective I'd use for them is &quot;robust&quot; :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4153" RevisionGUID="73436298-3d04-4811-978f-be87f2e69c5f" CreationDate="2016-07-08T09:04:15.380" UserId="3841" Text="Well I'll post what I said in the comment as an answer too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suggest you to buy the **MSI Apache Pro** with the **i7 6700HQ and GTX 970M** because this is what you wanted. As for rendering the i7 is way better than the i5 because of more cores and therefore better Multithreading. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD that is built in is with 1TB big enough and you wont find many Laptops that offer more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for gaming MSI should be very good. They jsut produce gear for gaming and their products are very well made. Most MSI products can also be upgraded easily. In an older MSI gaming Laptop I bought on ebay you could add an extra fan and extra HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would suggest you to buy this ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12956" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4136" RevisionGUID="bf72d2b7-8cda-4571-b522-e3c464954c0f" CreationDate="2016-07-08T09:54:38.263" UserId="3841" Comment="removed unnecessary information" Text="So far, it appears the only thing I can get if I want a device that's even *remotely* modern is the [Blackberry Priv](http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/overview.html), but I could be wrong, hence the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hard requirements (it's a dealbreaker without them):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard, as mentioned in the topic.&#xD;&#xA;* Decent app ecosystem (this eliminates all other BB devices)&#xD;&#xA;* OS that still gets security updates&#xD;&#xA;* Good performance (the UI should not hitch and stutter under daily use)&#xD;&#xA;* Supported on the Verizon network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondary concerns (nice to haves):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can be rooted/jailbroken&#xD;&#xA;* At least a 1080p screen&#xD;&#xA;* Battery life should last a full day under light use&#xD;&#xA;* OS still gets feature updates&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price no object; nearly any phone can be had via carrier discounts or secondhand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4136" RevisionGUID="bf72d2b7-8cda-4571-b522-e3c464954c0f" CreationDate="2016-07-08T09:54:38.263" Comment="Proposed by 3841 approved by 155 edit id of 475" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12958" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4042" RevisionGUID="f82001f4-d553-4873-ac41-ecf75c63977c" CreationDate="2016-07-08T09:55:38.873" UserId="155" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4154" RevisionGUID="1413d506-100f-41ef-9533-cc8811a25414" CreationDate="2016-07-08T10:00:34.717" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4155" RevisionGUID="e66235d1-302e-4299-9eb0-c91e2c82f418" CreationDate="2016-07-08T10:00:34.717" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the Unix-like FreeBSD operating system descended from a Berkeley Software Distribution (BSD) project." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4156" RevisionGUID="5e85e210-a8f3-47df-b359-2e4cbcd26626" CreationDate="2016-07-08T10:02:16.063" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4157" RevisionGUID="ee62519d-dd3d-4e0e-befa-01208bc05a07" CreationDate="2016-07-08T10:02:16.063" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the open-source FreeBSD-based pfSense firewall and router software." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12963" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4158" RevisionGUID="19da454f-ed19-4fcb-8b5f-6358fc722922" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:24:51.613" UserId="3910" Text="I'd like to add Thunderbolt I/O to an ASUS Z10PE-D16/4L motherboard. Hopefully through a PCIe card. It seems [ASUS ThunderboltEX II](https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessories/ThunderboltEX_II/) isn't compatible, and [HP Thunderbolt-2 PCIe 1-Port I/O Card F3F43AT](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1039491-REG/hp_f3f43at_hp_thunderbolt_2_pcie_1_port_i_o.html) isn't compatible with anything past HP's products. Are there any other PCIe cards that could or are known to work? It doesn't have to be TB 2 or 3." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12964" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4158" RevisionGUID="19da454f-ed19-4fcb-8b5f-6358fc722922" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:24:51.613" UserId="3910" Text="Thunderbolt options for ASUS Z10PE-16/4L" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4158" RevisionGUID="19da454f-ed19-4fcb-8b5f-6358fc722922" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:24:51.613" UserId="3910" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4159" RevisionGUID="ecbbae85-3357-41e9-9a20-24c39f7e995a" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:41:22.610" UserId="3836" Text="If you have some DDR3 RAM and a PSU and case laying around, you might consider [upgrading from ARM to x86][1], which would be a real boost not only to your single-threaded performance, but also to your graphics and RAM capacity. Of course as a whole package it will end up being bulkier and slightly more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If x86 isn't an option, you should be aware that MANY of the SBCs out there suffer from lackluster desktop experiences due to very poor linux support for their particular graphics drivers. Raspberry Pi uses one of the best-supported GPUs, so it's likely to give you the best possible desktop experience (especially the 3), just so long as you can figure out how to stay within the bounds of that 1gb RAM. For my money's worth, the best implementation of a Raspberry Pi OS I've ever seen has to be [DietPi][2]. Especially when you run it without X or a DE (i.e. in console, using only the framebuffer), it sips RAM. Now Adam, you might complain, I just said I need a desktop! Luckily you can still have a lot of what you like about desktops in your framebuffer using the *gpm* mouse driver for programs like *mc* and *links2* which support a graphical mode in framebuffer-only environments. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A final alternative would be to get [an android stick][3] and try to make do with the Android environment, which has much better driver support for the GPUs on these ARM SBCs. You could even [try running linux on it][4] if you were feeling determined and adventurous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157594&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://dietpi.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1GK22K3986&amp;cm_re=android_stick-_-9SIA1GK22K3986-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://plus.google.com/u/0/+IanMORRISON/posts/P6TNn3sisa2?cfem=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4160" RevisionGUID="b39e778b-f95f-4fd7-94f0-779aadadbdd8" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:58:57.943" UserId="3836" Text="[This card][1] meets the most requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual 4k/60fps capable&#xD;&#xA; - Passively cooled&#xD;&#xA; - One DP (can be split into two or more DP displays with an [MST hub such as this][2].&#xD;&#xA; - AMD chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=98BCB552-6560-4C44-94ED-E57CD03F9C15&amp;lang=eng&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158403&amp;cm_re=display_port_dual_head-_-15-158-403-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4160" RevisionGUID="eb32b43b-70ae-4d70-9f09-8caed797f54e" CreationDate="2016-07-08T15:10:24.523" UserId="60" Comment="Put the name of the card in the answer" Text="The [Sapphire R7 250 Ultimate][1] meets most of the requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual 4k/60fps capable&#xD;&#xA; - Passively cooled&#xD;&#xA; - One DP (can be split into two or more DP displays with an [MST hub such as this][2].&#xD;&#xA; - AMD chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=98BCB552-6560-4C44-94ED-E57CD03F9C15&amp;lang=eng&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158403&amp;cm_re=display_port_dual_head-_-15-158-403-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4114" RevisionGUID="1f9d7599-ab77-456e-8fad-95802dfd3984" CreationDate="2016-07-09T14:45:58.960" UserId="3890" Comment="Further clarification of my request" Text="As a local government, we generate lots of paper documents and currently are experiencing issues typical with storing them in paper form.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are parts to this:  &#xD;&#xA;1. Millions of OLD documents going back decades that need to be scanned and  &#xD;&#xA;2. The newer documents generated by the various government departments yearly. So the amount of documents being scanned per day will depend on the cost of the solution.  &#xD;&#xA;The goal is the do a thousand documents per day &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know a digital solution would be best, but for judicial reasons, I can only store them on microfiche. So, I am researching an enterprise (both hardware &amp; software) solution for storing/archiving paper documents.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4164" RevisionGUID="afbeb5fc-59bb-4427-95ad-d723f9f8bbcb" CreationDate="2016-07-09T14:56:32.053" UserId="3912" Text="I'm looking for a very simple switch-on-a-chip to add to a design. I have a small but capable processor on the board already. That has SPI and USB available for a control interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not really up-to-speed on switch chipsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I am trying to find 6, 8 or 10 port 100 base-T and a single 1000 base-T with as little host requirements as possible. Basically I'm taking 8 ports in and spitting them out down a gigabit link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone have any words of wisdom?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks,&#xD;&#xA;Steve" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4164" RevisionGUID="afbeb5fc-59bb-4427-95ad-d723f9f8bbcb" CreationDate="2016-07-09T14:56:32.053" UserId="3912" Text="Recommendation for an 8(ish) port switch-on-a-chip?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4164" RevisionGUID="afbeb5fc-59bb-4427-95ad-d723f9f8bbcb" CreationDate="2016-07-09T14:56:32.053" UserId="3912" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4165" RevisionGUID="436ed03f-99a9-45f1-8ea7-4ba5588e7bd9" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:48:02.153" UserId="3914" Text="I have a system with multiple keyboards, and one CPU. The problem is, if person 1 is entering a value from keyboard 1 and person 2 enters the value from keyboard 2 at the same time, the value entered is mixed up. What peripheral can be used so that only one keyboard is active at a time. For example, when keyboard 1 starts typing, keyboard 2 must be disabled until keyboard 1 presses a specific button. [Can a hardware device solve this? Or can it be controlled by using some code in my software?]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4165" RevisionGUID="436ed03f-99a9-45f1-8ea7-4ba5588e7bd9" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:48:02.153" UserId="3914" Text="What device is needed for using multiple keyboards in one computer so that the input from one kyeboard is not disturbed by the other?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4165" RevisionGUID="436ed03f-99a9-45f1-8ea7-4ba5588e7bd9" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:48:02.153" UserId="3914" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4164" RevisionGUID="97dbe95e-9adc-48f3-93ce-d9cd60b804d7" CreationDate="2016-07-09T17:27:42.463" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 23 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a very simple switch-on-a-chip to add to a design. I have a small but capable processor on the board already. That has SPI and USB available for a control interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not really up-to-speed on switch chipsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I am trying to find 6, 8 or 10 port 100 base-T and a single 1000 base-T with as little host requirements as possible. Basically I'm taking 8 ports in and spitting them out down a gigabit link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone have any words of wisdom?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13002" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4169" RevisionGUID="5563677c-20ef-42f5-8050-29a762cc64aa" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:16:45.897" UserId="3917" Text="I am completely new to building PCs and I have had friends recommending me to build one instead of buy one. I did a little research but I found it extremely difficult to understand each component. So I found a PC build that someone recommended me for a $600-$650 CAD budget. Here are the specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[PCPartPicker part list](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GYsLJV)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **CPU:** Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;* **Motherboard:** ASRock H110M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;* **Memory:** Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory&#xD;&#xA;* **Storage:** Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive &#xD;&#xA;* **Video Card:** Asus Radeon R7 260X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card&#xD;&#xA;* **Case:** BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case  ($32.79 @ DirectCanada) &#xD;&#xA;* **Power Supply:** Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;* **Optical Drive:** Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The total amount $609.56 CAD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was trying to search the proper Stack Overflow website for PC Build Advice and was told that HardwareRecs is my best bet. If not, then are there any other sites on Stack Exchange that offer PC Build advice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, here are my questions regarding my build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Will my build be capable of editing and rendering Sony Vegas videos fast?&#xD;&#xA;2. What about multi-tasking? Will I still be able to play a few Flash browser games and cheap downloadable client games effectively even with opening multiple clients/browsers?&#xD;&#xA;3. Are there any bottleneck or compatibility issues with this build?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4169" RevisionGUID="5563677c-20ef-42f5-8050-29a762cc64aa" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:16:45.897" UserId="3917" Text="Would this PC Build be good enough for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13004" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4169" RevisionGUID="5563677c-20ef-42f5-8050-29a762cc64aa" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:16:45.897" UserId="3917" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4170" RevisionGUID="c182c039-2b89-477e-bdd6-ffc257806841" CreationDate="2016-07-10T06:15:29.547" UserId="3836" Text="IMHO AMD is a better bet for your CPU configuration when it comes to video editing, and won't hurt you when you play low and midrange games. This build features better RAM, storage, and GPU power than that listed above, for only ~50 more, and I think it would very much be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/6VgBbj&#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/6VgBbj/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD FX-8300 3.3GHz 8-Core Processor  ($165.98 @ Newegg Canada) &#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: MSI 970A-G43 Plus ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard  ($88.99 @ Newegg Canada) &#xD;&#xA;Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory  ($59.88 @ Canada Computers) &#xD;&#xA;Storage: A-Data XPG SX900 128GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($39.99 @ Memory Express) &#xD;&#xA;Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($59.93 @ Vuugo) &#xD;&#xA;Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R7 370 2GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card  ($159.99 @ NCIX) &#xD;&#xA;Case: BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case  ($39.88 @ Canada Computers) &#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: EVGA 400W ATX Power Supply  ($32.22 @ Amazon Canada) &#xD;&#xA;Total: $646.86&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-10 02:11 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one caveat here - this is NOT a machine you'd really look to upgrade. It is optimized to deliver the most bang for buck, and has much less room to upgrade than the build you found initially. I still think it's a good choice, because it will provide better performance out of the box for longer, with lower expense over the first two to three years of the build (accounting for upgrades).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4169" RevisionGUID="b14d889e-9b9c-422c-a417-1f2daa65763d" CreationDate="2016-07-10T08:54:39.857" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4170" RevisionGUID="69337a45-032b-429d-bf2e-95e762890c84" CreationDate="2016-07-10T18:22:33.453" UserId="3836" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="IMHO AMD is a better bet for your CPU configuration when it comes to video editing, and won't hurt you when you play low and midrange games. This build features better RAM, storage, and GPU power than that listed above, for only ~50 more, and I think it would very much be worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/6VgBbj&#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/6VgBbj/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD FX-8300 3.3GHz 8-Core Processor  ($165.98 @ Newegg Canada) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: MSI 970A-G43 Plus ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard  ($88.99 @ Newegg Canada) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory  ($59.88 @ Canada Computers) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: A-Data XPG SX900 128GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($39.99 @ Memory Express) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($59.93 @ Vuugo) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R7 370 2GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card  ($159.99 @ NCIX) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case  ($39.88 @ Canada Computers) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: EVGA 400W ATX Power Supply  ($32.22 @ Amazon Canada) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $646.86&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-10 02:11 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one caveat here - this is NOT a machine you'd really look to upgrade. It is optimized to deliver the most bang for buck, and has much less room to upgrade than the build you found initially. I still think it's a good choice, because it will provide better performance out of the box for longer, with lower expense over the first two to three years of the build (accounting for upgrades).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="17268f14-cbb1-4069-868b-38dcab0d2e2e" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:08:14.133" UserId="3925" Text="I'm looking for parallel computing in tiniest form possible. For example, having two 18 cores Intel Xeon parked on both sides of motherboard with size of credit card would be ideal solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Couldn't found any motherboards (compatible with CPUs with 10+ cores) without USBs, Wifi, PCIe and other ports, that makes them only bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More specifically I need best Cores per Square Meter ratio possible: CPU and motherboard models.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1.5-2GHz is ok. More = better, but not critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, it is to build high-dense CPU farm&#xD;&#xA;- no, it is not for mining, it is for math, non-GPU calculations&#xD;&#xA;- yes, amount of cores (multithreading) is critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, huge 4x&quot;Intel Broadwell-EP CPU&quot;s server motherboards are ok until they bring best cores/square ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="17268f14-cbb1-4069-868b-38dcab0d2e2e" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:08:14.133" UserId="3925" Text="Biggest amount of cores on the smallest board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="17268f14-cbb1-4069-868b-38dcab0d2e2e" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:08:14.133" UserId="3925" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4176" RevisionGUID="97a8e690-db4f-4bda-93a5-ffadef36eb50" CreationDate="2016-07-11T11:29:51.847" UserId="3902" Text="I know that this isn't a hardware answer but TeamPlayer4 (from Dicolab https://www.dicolab.com/) might do what you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;With that, you can use several input devices for several users. So even if typing on keyboard A doesn't disable keyboard B, as far as it is not the same user, keyboard B won't mix up with A ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4177" RevisionGUID="1ffff25a-562f-4cf3-989c-a9af8f63eaf6" CreationDate="2016-07-11T11:44:19.407" UserId="3902" Text="The Corsair M65 PRO RGB meets your requirements(http://www.corsair.com/en/m65-pro-rgb-fps-gaming-mouse-black), points by points:&#xD;&#xA;Wired, 168g with adjustable weights, 2 programming buttons on the side, around 65€ (in France), Corsair, RGB lightning, not that small but for you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At NCIX: http://www.ncix.com/search/?qcatid=0&amp;q=m65+pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1227" RevisionGUID="d89b6d5c-8c0d-4544-8b57-ed50a77e70da" CreationDate="2016-07-11T12:21:46.653" UserId="32" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="The only available option that I could find was [OwnFone][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![OwnFone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a customized phone that is made specially for the customer based on their order. They company intention is to provide our eldest with an emergency easy to use phone however, it can be used a for children as well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons can be images (or names) in case you child is too young to read&#xD;&#xA; - 999/emergency button is available &#xD;&#xA; - No text, no screen&#xD;&#xA; - Choices of 2, 4, 8 or 12 pre-programmed numbers depending on how much you willing to pay&#xD;&#xA; - Designed and works only in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Biggest downside is that the phone is not SIM-free and it seems you cant even replace the SIM or the battery so you are stuck with the plans offered to you by the company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cell phone can be bought from [this website](https://ageuk.myownfone.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** It's available for children now from [Mobile phones for children][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.smh.com.au/digital-life/mobiles/ownfone-phone-without-texting-camera-or-internet-pitches-to-parents-20140410-zqt2n.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Nuz2Z.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ownfone.com/children" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4178" RevisionGUID="9c984544-8b5d-4aed-bc9d-f8472aaf3efa" CreationDate="2016-07-11T14:03:28.757" UserId="3836" Text="I am going to assume you need x86 compatible cores/threads, and I am going to assume you don't want to use something like the Xeon Phi compute card, for some reason or another. I am also going to assume, because you didn't specify, that power requirements and heat dispersion considerations are not something you're worried about, since it wasn't mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, there are some absolute monsters out there you can fit into pretty small builds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the AMD side, you're stuck back in 2012 unless you get fancy with ARM, but you can still get very powerful 64 real-core systems built on quad-socket G34 server boards that are somehow crammed into 1U chassis by Supermicro and other companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the Intel side, where I suspect you'll end up, you can get the formidable 	Intel Xeon E5-2699 V4, with 22 cores and 44 threads PER PROCESSOR, onto large multi-CPU boards, or onto thin ITX boards like this one: http://www.anandtech.com/show/9221/asrock-rack-announces-epc612d4i, or this one http://www.asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=EP2C612D8HM#Specifications - whichever way nets you the most density. I'm not recommending AsRock as a brand per se either, I'm just showing you what's possible using their site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of that will suffice, you're really gonna have to look into stuff like Xeon Phi, IBM Power8, or ARM architectures. Although more exotic and therefore more difficult to work with, these types of CPU feature very high compute densities, with different approaches each. More information/research would be necessary before anything in this area could be recommended." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4179" RevisionGUID="bae2450d-8c2b-4684-b179-17a3e544ac51" CreationDate="2016-07-11T14:23:38.750" UserId="3836" Text="They're not all that different. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A rough estimate of relative CPU computational power: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=2542&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2470&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(note the 35W AMD TDP vs the 15W Intel TDP; this is what Mr. Zhu was referring to when he estimated the Intel would have better battery life given identical batteries, HDDs, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AMD chip will enjoy somewhat better GPU performance: http://www.notebookcheck.net/AMD-Radeon-R6-Carrizo-Benchmarks.144290.0.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially if you upgrade the system RAM from 1600mhz to something more like 2133mhz sodimms (example product: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231751&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that if mobility is a big concern, then ask for an Intel model. Also ask for Intel if you absolutely, positively MUST have the best single-thread performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, if you're usually going to be plugged in wherever you work, and you are looking for a more well-rounded processor in your laptop, get the A10-8700P and upgrade its RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4181" RevisionGUID="617c466a-b84e-4f76-898e-d7318013954c" CreationDate="2016-07-11T17:28:07.537" UserId="84" Text="I don't want to pay for a monitored alarm system.  I would just like to install some wireless motion sensors that, either directly or via a separate controller that uses the local wifi:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Can be armed/disarmed from a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;1. Push alerts to registered smartphones when motion is detected while system is armed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13045" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4181" RevisionGUID="617c466a-b84e-4f76-898e-d7318013954c" CreationDate="2016-07-11T17:28:07.537" UserId="84" Text="Smartphone-controlled motion alarm system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13046" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4181" RevisionGUID="617c466a-b84e-4f76-898e-d7318013954c" CreationDate="2016-07-11T17:28:07.537" UserId="84" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="d82cf8fa-d01e-48fa-a084-c8c1c6a2a297" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:07:27.760" UserId="3929" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 (760 Watt) PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model (2013). It was never used. Can it keep up with new models that cost the same as the AX760 back then (I honestly don't know what the price was though)? Or have connectors, efficiency etc. changed too much in the meantime? I see that it is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I ask for is what possible advantages I can expect when buying a new one, or possible flaws when using the older model.**  I'm not asking for advice what to do or buy but I will be greatful when given in addition to the actual answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card (new 1080 from Nvidia maybe) and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: What I asked above, what is the answer when I want to place two graphics cards in SLI or Crossfire?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="d82cf8fa-d01e-48fa-a084-c8c1c6a2a297" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:07:27.760" UserId="3929" Text="Older model vs new model PSU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="d82cf8fa-d01e-48fa-a084-c8c1c6a2a297" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:07:27.760" UserId="3929" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13050" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="ca3cab11-2573-4511-b8b8-8c9cb3c07dca" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:35:32.747" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4183" RevisionGUID="1b5d909e-27ef-478e-9dee-7c425a2aa97c" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:44:18.020" UserId="2166" Text="I did some digging around and in the end I got a [Lexmark CX 310](http://media.lexmark.com/www/doc/en_US/Lexmark-CX310.pdf).  The only thing it falls down on is the duplex scanning automatically, however the interface allows for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having used it for a while now its a good little printer and fits nicely to my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ben " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4184" RevisionGUID="43f1aae8-9b92-4129-a57b-984f3ea54d5d" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:48:57.457" UserId="273" Text="In my answer I'll expand a little bit on [Adam's answer][1]. I'll also restrict myself to Intel processors and all brand recommendations should be taken with a grain of salt given the fact that I don't have any _actual / hands-on_ experience with this sort of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So your aim is maximal density of cores / space. What this means is that you want to fit as many processors into as small spaces as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't really care about the distribution of CPUs across mainboards, then 1U servers with full-scale 2-socket [Xeon E5 v4s][2] is the way to go. Or if you're willing to spend some time searching and asking hardware providers, then you can also get probably a 4-socket [Xeon E7 v4s][3] 1U setup (or if you ask _really_ nice an 8-socket mainboard _may_ also fit, note that 4XXX CPUs are for 4-socket configurations and 8XXX CPUs are for 8-socket configurations). This should have the most cores per space unit if you don't care about grouping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have as many cores on a single board as possible, then going with 8-socket Xeon E7 v4s is the way to go. Although chances are that it's going to be less optimal in the cores / space department.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally you should consider using [Xeon Phi][4] and / or [Nvidia Tesla][5] accelerator cards. The Nvidia cards go well with highly parallelizable (small) workloads while the [Phis][6] are basically dumbed down Intel processors grouped up onto a PCIe card and thus support linear workload much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last note: Depending on what you plan to do, a proper RISC architecture like PowerPC, ARM and SPARC may be worth a look, given that a lot of the current [Top500 supercomputers][7] use these architectures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example providers of Xeon E7 equipment include [Delta Computers (only in German?)][8], [Lenovo][9] and [Supermicro][10].&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;As for the CPUs, the [Intel Xeon E5 2699v4][11] is the dual-socket CPU with the most cores. The [Intel Xeon E5 4669 v4][12] for 4-socket (only 16 cores each) and the [Intel Xeon E7 8890 v4][13] for 8-sockets (24 physical cores each). The [Nvidia Tesla P100][14] is the best current super computing card by Nvidia and the [Intel Xeon Phi 7290F][15] is the best current Xeon Phi card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4178/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/91287/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-v4-Family#@Server&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/93797/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E7-v4-Family#@Server&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xeon_Phi&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-supercomputing-solutions.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ark.intel.com/products/family/92650/Intel-Xeon-Phi-Product-Family-x200#@Server&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.top500.org/statistics/sublist/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.deltacomputer.com/hochleistungs-rechner/standard-server/intel-xeon-e7-8800.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/systems/servers/mission-critical/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/nfo/Xeon_MP.cfm&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://ark.intel.com/products/91317/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2699-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://ark.intel.com/products/93805/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-4669-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://ark.intel.com/products/93790/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E7-8890-v4-60M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://www.nvidia.com/object/tesla-p100.html&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: http://ark.intel.com/products/95831/Intel-Xeon-Phi-Processor-7290F-16GB-1_50-GHz-72-core" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4185" RevisionGUID="7fe941c7-ea83-4428-80a4-4d00358a5a96" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:50:55.363" UserId="2166" Text="My work machine is currently 3 years old and despite a few upgrades is really starting to show its age.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our corporate IT people want to give us laptops with 8gb of RAM and I5 dual core processors with &lt;500gb HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that we really need more than this.  The product I work on has 5 windows services, a web front end using a combination of ASP.Net, Javascript and even some VBScript.  Then a c#, vb.net mid layer and then a SQL Server 2012 backend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now on our development machines, we need to be able to have SQL server 2012 enterprise, Visual Studio 2015 and a web browser as an absolute minimum.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think we need a minimum of 16gb preferably 32gb and Quad core processors, with SSD's at least for OS and applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What laptops/specs would people suggest ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ben" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13054" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4185" RevisionGUID="7fe941c7-ea83-4428-80a4-4d00358a5a96" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:50:55.363" UserId="2166" Text="Development laptop for Visual Studio and SQL servert" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4185" RevisionGUID="7fe941c7-ea83-4428-80a4-4d00358a5a96" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:50:55.363" UserId="2166" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4183" RevisionGUID="cd81000a-216c-4055-8a31-2b70626ac87b" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:53:09.313" UserId="57" Comment="removed signature" Text="I did some digging around and in the end I got a [Lexmark CX 310](http://media.lexmark.com/www/doc/en_US/Lexmark-CX310.pdf).  The only thing it falls down on is the duplex scanning automatically, however the interface allows for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having used it for a while now its a good little printer and fits nicely to my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13057" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4186" RevisionGUID="5b6b7ea8-05c1-4a99-99bc-b9863c13130e" CreationDate="2016-07-11T20:13:10.523" UserId="3836" Text="There are probably CHEAPER ways to do this, but here's A solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel RS3DC080 PCI-Express 3.0 x8 Low Profile Ready SATA / SAS Controller Card&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=16-117-428&#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel Upgrade RAID SSD Cache-with Fastpath for RS25 http://www.provantage.com/intel-rs3sc008~7ITE90QU.htm&#xD;&#xA; 3. Intel AXXRMFBU4 RAID Maintenance Free Backup Unit with Super Capacitor Brown Box White Box https://www.amazon.com/Intel-AXXRMFBU4-Maintenance-Backup-Capacitor/dp/B01DIT7ZO8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Notes: http://www.intel.in/content/www/in/en/support/server-products/raid-products/000008342.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically you get this RAID card installed, you attach the key to it, you fire it up, you configure SSD Cache and possibly also Fastpath as needed, you make your SSDs into a cache array and get it assigned to your RAID10 array, and off you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You've now dropped a little over a grand into something that could be performed at a fraction of the cost if you'd just let it hit the CPU a teensy bit, but there you go, SSD caching on hardware RAID with a ridiculous number of SSDs and HDDs simultaneously in play. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, just for the record - &quot;This is for a gaming workstation, not a dedicated server.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You emphatically do not need this and will not notice performance differences between this and a standard software-cached SSD+HDD RAID solution using something like PrimoCache. It is one of the most overkill solutions I have ever come up with at the behest of someone else, and I did it only to see if it could be done. You personally have no viable use case for this hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I forgot to add in the cost of the SAS to SATA cables themselves; that's another couple dozen bucks at a minimum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4186" RevisionGUID="63a303c0-f1be-4487-8b98-87899ce8408a" CreationDate="2016-07-11T20:32:48.263" UserId="3836" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="There are probably CHEAPER ways to do this, but here's A solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Intel RS3DC050 PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Low Profile Ready SATA / SAS Controller Card&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816117427&#xD;&#xA; 2. Intel Upgrade RAID SSD Cache-with Fastpath for RS25 http://www.provantage.com/intel-rs3sc008~7ITE90QU.htm&#xD;&#xA; 3. Intel AXXRMFBU4 RAID Maintenance Free Backup Unit with Super Capacitor Brown Box White Box https://www.amazon.com/Intel-AXXRMFBU4-Maintenance-Backup-Capacitor/dp/B01DIT7ZO8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Notes: http://www.intel.in/content/www/in/en/support/server-products/raid-products/000008342.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically you get this RAID card installed, you attach the key to it, you fire it up, you configure SSD Cache and possibly also Fastpath as needed, you make your SSDs into a cache array and get it assigned to your RAID10 array, and off you go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You've now dropped a something near a grand into something that could be performed at a fraction of the cost if you'd just let it hit the CPU a teensy bit, but there you go, SSD caching on hardware RAID with a ridiculous number of SSDs and HDDs simultaneously in play. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, just for the record - &quot;This is for a gaming workstation, not a dedicated server.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You emphatically do not need this and will not notice performance differences between this and a standard software-cached SSD+HDD RAID solution using something like PrimoCache. It is one of the most overkill solutions I have ever come up with at the behest of someone else, and I did it only to see if it could be done. You personally have no viable use case for this hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I forgot to add in the cost of the SAS to SATA cables themselves; that's another couple dozen bucks at a minimum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13059" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="9760df8d-1b3a-4083-84a8-d484faea012b" CreationDate="2016-07-11T20:49:42.000" UserId="3929" Comment="added 223 characters in body" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 (760 Watt) PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model (2013). It was never used. Can it keep up with new models that cost the same as the AX760 back then (I honestly don't know what the price was though)? Or have connectors, efficiency etc. changed too much in the meantime? I see that it is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I ask for is what possible advantages I can expect when buying a new one, or possible flaws when using the older model.**  &lt;s&gt;I'm not asking for advice what to do or buy but I will be greatful when given in addition to the actual answer.&lt;/s&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Since this was put on hold I will ask clearly for a recommendation. I hope this site doesn't require recommended hardware to be new ;-). So what is de recommended thing to do in my case and especially why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card (new 1080 from Nvidia maybe) and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: What I asked above, what is the answer when I want to place two graphics cards in SLI or Crossfire?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="b2bf9f67-8e95-4bf8-8dc0-211847ce09bf" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:00:38.300" UserId="3925" Comment="updated info" Text="I'm looking for parallel computing in tiniest form possible. For example, having two 18 cores Intel Xeon parked on both sides of motherboard with size of credit card would be ideal solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Couldn't found any motherboards (compatible with CPUs with 10+ cores) without USBs, Wifi, PCIe and other ports, that makes them only bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More specifically I need best Cores per Square Meter ratio possible: CPU and motherboard models.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1.5-2GHz is ok. More = better, but not critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, it is to build high-dense CPU farm&#xD;&#xA;- no, it is not for mining, it is for math, non-GPU calculations&#xD;&#xA;- yes, amount of cores (multithreading) is critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, huge 4x&quot;Intel Broadwell-EP CPU&quot;s server motherboards are ok until they bring best cores/square ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Updated (12.07): ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering answers below which I have at the moment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No AMD at all, Xeon processors it is, E5 or E7 is to be evaluated by cost/density/power factor, will update with calculations later.&#xD;&#xA;- I'm also in blade servers with extreme density WITH support of Xeon Phi - some of applications will run on it nicely with reuse of code and data, have spent a day looking for specifications and cost, will update as soon as will have nice configuration on hands&#xD;&#xA;- regarding CUDA and Nvidia Tesla, that is a separate question and it is solved already, will share specifications with you later, thank you, [SEJPM](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4184/3925)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is already decided that configuration will have BOTH Xeon E5/E7 and Xeon Phi on same boards (not on all of them though). [Cray supercomputers already use it][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkf3U_5QG_4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13061" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="27e0829a-234f-41ab-a2e1-822a158bde79" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:26:18.883" UserId="3925" Comment="added 791 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for parallel computing in tiniest form possible. For example, having two 18 cores Intel Xeon parked on both sides of motherboard with size of credit card would be ideal solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Couldn't found any motherboards (compatible with CPUs with 10+ cores) without USBs, Wifi, PCIe and other ports, that makes them only bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More specifically I need best Cores per Square Meter ratio possible: CPU and motherboard models.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1.5-2GHz is ok. More = better, but not critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, it is to build high-dense CPU farm&#xD;&#xA;- no, it is not for mining, it is for math, non-GPU calculations&#xD;&#xA;- yes, amount of cores (multithreading) is critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, huge 4x&quot;Intel Broadwell-EP CPU&quot;s server motherboards are ok until they bring best cores/square ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Updated (12.07): ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering answers below which I have at the moment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No AMD at all, Xeon processors it is, E5 or E7 is to be evaluated by cost/density/power factor, will update with calculations later.&#xD;&#xA;- I'm also in blade servers with extreme density WITH support of Xeon Phi - some of applications will run on it nicely with reuse of code and data, have spent a day looking for specifications and cost, will update as soon as will have nice configuration on hands&#xD;&#xA;- regarding CUDA and Nvidia Tesla, that is a separate question and it is solved already, will share specifications with you later, thank you, [SEJPM](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4184/3925)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is already decided that configuration will have BOTH Xeon E5/E7 and Xeon Phi on same boards (not on all of them though). [Cray supercomputers already use it][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkf3U_5QG_4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Updated (12.07)[2]: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear: I've a lot of small binaries (cross-platform, C++ and Java) each of them work for seconds with parallel computing full-support. When it comes to situation where there are significantly less cores than amount of threads/processes started, overall efficiency drops due to a lot of context switching between processes. And there is no way to queue jobs, let's say they are to be done in real-time manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best way is to distribute them among Xeon Phi (store code and preseed with data) + run others as a tiny-services (solving issue with binary loading overhead) waiting for jobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is why I search for comparatively cheap solution with high cores density to not to maintain big amount of units, solving more problems with data-logistic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="03e9b342-a7d9-4cfd-8a5e-dc422bd1bb78" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:46:11.990" UserId="1459" Text="I'm seeking recommendations for a self-powered (rechargeable) Bluetooth receiver with an integrated 3.5mm male TRS plug.  It's a stand-alone device which enables use of Bluetooth headphones/speakers with a device that supports a standard 3.5mm mini stereo jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it should:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- use a micro USB connector for charging&#xD;&#xA;- offer some indication of battery level (visual or audible)&#xD;&#xA;- decent range&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have experience with multiple devices your comparison is much appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device shown below is the Plantronics 35BAA which was sold with the Plantronics Pulsar 590A, but is no longer manufactured.  It relied on a proprietary charging connector (not micro USB), but was otherwise a very satisfactory device.  Bonus points: *Did Plantronics release a successor to this?*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Plantronics 35BAA][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/rD0Zc.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13063" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="03e9b342-a7d9-4cfd-8a5e-dc422bd1bb78" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:46:11.990" UserId="1459" Text="Self-powered bluetooth receiver with 3.5mm TRS (often: &quot;universal stereo adapter&quot;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="03e9b342-a7d9-4cfd-8a5e-dc422bd1bb78" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:46:11.990" UserId="1459" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4188" RevisionGUID="8c6a15dc-9b20-495a-88f8-3cd4e6282563" CreationDate="2016-07-11T22:19:26.073" UserId="153" Text="If your it department is open to getting custom built laptops then I would recommend you get a laptop from digital storm. They custom build computers. I have a digital storm laptop and it can handle pretty much any programming work load better than most workstations. As for specs I do not think you need 32gb of RAM. I think 16gb should do. I do not know how big your sql server database is but you should be able to get away with 16gb of ram. I think for the CPU you should get a nice solid Intel i7 6700k. I know that is a desktop processor but they do offer them in laptops. You probably don't need a big GPU unless you use GPU computing but I doubt you do so i would recommend you just use the Intel CPUs onboard graphics. For storage I would recommend you get an ssd for your boot drive and a fast mechanical data drive. If your sql database is big then I would recommend that you get big 512gb ssd for your data drive so that you can have your sql database on your data drive. If you cannot get a custom built laptop then I would recommend you get a ASUS gaming laptop as those laptops are usually pretty high speced or you could even get an Alienware if you could fork over that kind of money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4190" RevisionGUID="c29301fc-dad9-42cd-b9ec-1a7c4989ab8d" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:31:19.070" UserId="3866" Text="&lt;h3&gt;Hello Folks,&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a computer unit and my first plan is to buy the processor for it, I saw many options in the market and interested on choosing these two. Well, i don't know which one should I choose, I'm thinking on choosing the i3 because of some thought that it's part of the generation of&lt;br&gt; 'i series', but someone told me to look for it's clock speed which is the GHz thinggy. And then what! what !!!. I get doubt about this...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;kinds regards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4190" RevisionGUID="c29301fc-dad9-42cd-b9ec-1a7c4989ab8d" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:31:19.070" UserId="3866" Text="Pentium 4 2.8GHz or i3 1.7GHz, which one should I choose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4190" RevisionGUID="c29301fc-dad9-42cd-b9ec-1a7c4989ab8d" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:31:19.070" UserId="3866" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="8fdb75cc-df29-4a1b-9afa-3311ec5530e6" CreationDate="2016-07-12T09:12:36.530" UserId="3929" Comment="deleted 194 characters in body" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 (760 Watt) PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model (2013). It was never used. I see that it is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I ask for is what possible advantages I can expect when buying a new one, or possible flaws when using the older model.**  &lt;s&gt;I'm not asking for advice what to do or buy but I will be greatful when given in addition to the actual answer.&lt;/s&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Since this was put on hold I will ask clearly for a recommendation. I hope this site doesn't require recommended hardware to be new ;-). So what is de recommended thing to do in my case and especially why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card (new 1080 from Nvidia maybe) and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: What I asked above, what is the answer when I want to place two graphics cards in SLI or Crossfire?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4191" RevisionGUID="caecc160-1447-4027-b758-8aa544c2550c" CreationDate="2016-07-12T09:14:20.990" UserId="3902" Text="The answer is quite straightforward:&#xD;&#xA;P4 has only one core, 512kb L2 cache vs 2 cores and 3MB cache. These two caracteristics have to be considered as much as clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides, P4 is manufactured with 120nm vs 22nm =&gt; P4 uses 68.4W while i3 uses 15W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The P4 is quite old now so you also have to consider that its old socket isn't available on newly main-boards (no ddr3, no usb3 etc.) " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4192" RevisionGUID="fec1b0a1-442d-4edc-87f4-982193700d75" CreationDate="2016-07-12T10:10:18.063" UserId="543" Text="I currently have a computer running Windows 10. It has a ASUS® MAXIMUS VIII RANGER: RoG, PCI-e 3.0, SATA 3.0, LG1151 motherboard, integrated graphics.&#xA;&#xA;I currently do not have an external monitor or keyboard for my computer, so I would like to use my laptop as a monitor for my computer. How would I do this and what cables or software would I need? Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4192" RevisionGUID="fec1b0a1-442d-4edc-87f4-982193700d75" CreationDate="2016-07-12T10:10:18.063" UserId="543" Text="Use laptop as primary monitor for desktop computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4192" RevisionGUID="fec1b0a1-442d-4edc-87f4-982193700d75" CreationDate="2016-07-12T10:10:18.063" UserId="543" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="554" RevisionGUID="ade7be22-8300-4ce6-a515-1a281c86c34e" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:57:38.467" UserId="54" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I would recommend Lenovo Thinkpad W520. As you probably know, Lenovo purchased the IBM personal computer business and the ThinkPad brand in 2005. T43/p &amp; T60 were one of the last IBM-designed units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I own this laptop and it is just my personal view. I faced with a similar choice - solid workstation that will last for years. I bought it as an off-lease laptop for $400. In my humble opinion, it would be very difficult to get something better for this money. This laptop is 4 years old now. Answer is based on a 4284XXX model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Specification (for versions: 4284W85, 4284E57, 4284B26, 4284A35)][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel i7-2820QM with quad-core&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia Quadro 2000M, HD 3000&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: 8 GB DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 (maximum memory: 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum Battery Run Time: up to 10.80 hours (9-cell) or up to 21.6 hours (9-cell plus Slice battery)&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 320 GB (Serial ATA/300, 7200 RPM)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size: 15.6&quot; (Active Matrix TFT Color LCD, 1920x1080, anti-glare display)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What distinguishes this model from the typical consumer laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - palm rest does not bend in too easily under pressure &#xD;&#xA; - solid hinges &#xD;&#xA; - you can open the display up to 180 degrees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Classical Thinkpad keyboard may be a plus for you. Check the difference [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Unboxing video][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Product gallery][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/product/compare/1298934/lenovo-thinkpad-w520-4284w85-notebook.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?p=680454#p680454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ythPaRrzRsA&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://picasaweb.google.com/lenovocomms/ThinkPadW520&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CisvT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4193" RevisionGUID="08657364-eeb8-4bff-aaee-3d34df1414ca" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:24:16.600" UserId="3902" Text="You should tell us the laptop you have. Most of laptops actually do not have video input (I know that some lenovo and alienware does).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides, you have to solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The software one, that emulate a video input (such as Maxivista)&#xD;&#xA; - The hardware one, which need an (expensive) device such a VGA2USB (https://www.epiphan.com/products/vga2usb/). (Note that such devices cost most of the time 200 to 300 € which leads me to say that it might be wiser to buy a monitor X) )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I never did that I can't tell for sure, but I think both solutions leeds to a latency that might be unsuitable for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4194" RevisionGUID="0b2b9a64-3ff7-4014-bb08-e854db33b93a" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:39:23.180" UserId="3902" Text="Does the D-LINK DCH-S150 (http://us.dlink.com/products/connected-home/wi-fi-motion-sensor/) suits you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's connected to your local wifi and registered onto your D-LINK account which leads to a control from the D-LINK app on your smartphone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="7b11d9b4-19cf-47e0-8215-b7908eb51f94" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:58:28.383" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/245659/apple-security-fob" />
  <row Id="13084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="69ecafb0-0960-4b1a-8140-121968ee6d68" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:50:18.583" UserDisplayName="Scott" Text="I work with a software development team inside local government. Our team have developed an app for Apple IPhone 6 SE with Cordova that requires carers to &quot;check-in&quot; to client visits. Clients typically are vulnerable people, like the aged and severely disabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like the check-in to be possible only when the carer is at a client's home. We absolutely need to ensure this, to prevent potential fraud.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One idea that has been touted is a fob kept in the client's home alongside their care docs. The fob will contain a code identifying the client. Only when the fob is plugged into the IPhone will the app allow checkin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would any of you know if such a device exists? Or a similar type of solution?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBeacons have been mentioned but are too expensive per unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13085" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="69ecafb0-0960-4b1a-8140-121968ee6d68" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:50:18.583" UserDisplayName="Scott" Text="Apple security fob" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13086" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="69ecafb0-0960-4b1a-8140-121968ee6d68" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:50:18.583" UserDisplayName="Scott" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4196" RevisionGUID="c78aebb4-bad8-48d0-be10-53475de78528" CreationDate="2016-07-12T15:07:30.633" UserId="84" Text="Not wanting to pay an ongoing monthly fee for either monitoring or cell service of alerts really limits the options here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can cobble together D-Link WiFi Motion Sensors (currently [DCH-S150](http://us.dlink.com/products/connected-home/wi-fi-motion-sensor/), about $40/apiece) and control them using [IFTTT.com](https://ifttt.com/dlink_motion_sensor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[iSmartAlarm](https://www.ismartalarm.com/us/) appears to be a step up, with a wireless hub that integrates a siren and the ability to link and control many devices: extra $30 motion sensors, $25 door/window sensors, cameras, and electrical switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other &quot;self-monitored&quot; systems are built around cameras:  E.g., [Canary](https://canary.is/) security devices are under $200 and each one includes full HD video as well as motion detection, humidity and temperature measurement, and a siren.  [Piper](https://getpiper.com/) is similar, and [Novi](http://www.novisecurity.com/) has a smoke detector built in to each ceiling-mount unit. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4197" RevisionGUID="350de467-b9a7-4f0e-b5a6-39a7df0ade77" CreationDate="2016-07-12T15:45:44.307" UserId="3836" Text="There can't be anything exactly like you're looking for due to the way USB flash storage works. It's just a USB controller chip attached to flash media; you would need an additional encryption chip on the PCB of the device that took everything the controller fed it and encrypted it. It would have to be powered over the USB link and it would also have to provide a way for people to decrypt its contents via some kind of interface no matter what it was plugged into. I suppose in theory it might be done, but the vast majority of use cases would be better served with encryption being performed on the system itself, where it can be faster, innately compatible, and tailored. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should not be hard to set up software that watches for a USB drive attached to the system to have files added to it, then automatically encrypts that volume. It might be possible to defeat that system by pulling the drive prior to encryption automatically beginning, but that would require some pretty remarkable deftness. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audit trail idea seems MUCH more viable. A quick review of links on Google leads me to this: https://www.manageengine.com/products/active-directory-audit/removable-storage-auditing.html?ADAPID=1522&amp;kw=%2Busb%20%2Bfile%20%2Blog&amp;adId=27633832007&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwqpK8BRD7ua-U0orrgkESJADlN3YBY-7r2DY5KPPjSLdJ0zfn52h1m_bm39e2pWdO_WUSDxoCaAvw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which appears to be a server-based solution. Obviously file transfers would need to be illegal if the computer were not currently networked or something like that to maintain security.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][1] is a free, local software doing much the same thing, but of course as such it would be fairly easy to defeat if a knowledgeable adversary were attempting to steal data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_log_view.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: looking over your post again, I think the Startech USB HDD with inline AES encryption is *extremely* close to what you're asking for (and it overcomes all the problems I said devices like this would need to overcome in order to work). I would go with that device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13089" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4197" RevisionGUID="8d5fbaf5-a729-49ad-944e-a7b9dfc21b90" CreationDate="2016-07-12T15:51:39.077" UserId="3836" Comment="Added justification for suggestion." Text="There can't be anything exactly like you're looking for due to the way USB flash storage works. It's just a USB controller chip attached to flash media; you would need an additional encryption chip on the PCB of the device that took everything the controller fed it and encrypted it. It would have to be powered over the USB link and it would also have to provide a way for people to decrypt its contents via some kind of interface no matter what it was plugged into. I suppose in theory it might be done, but the vast majority of use cases would be better served with encryption being performed on the system itself, where it can be faster, innately compatible, and tailored. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should not be hard to set up software that watches for a USB drive attached to the system to have files added to it, then automatically encrypts that volume. It might be possible to defeat that system by pulling the drive prior to encryption automatically beginning, but that would require some pretty remarkable deftness. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audit trail idea seems MUCH more viable. A quick review of links on Google leads me to this: https://www.manageengine.com/products/active-directory-audit/removable-storage-auditing.html?ADAPID=1522&amp;kw=%2Busb%20%2Bfile%20%2Blog&amp;adId=27633832007&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwqpK8BRD7ua-U0orrgkESJADlN3YBY-7r2DY5KPPjSLdJ0zfn52h1m_bm39e2pWdO_WUSDxoCaAvw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which appears to be a server-based solution. Obviously file transfers would need to be illegal if the computer were not currently networked or something like that to maintain security.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][1] is a free, local software doing much the same thing, but of course as such it would be fairly easy to defeat if a knowledgeable adversary were attempting to steal data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_log_view.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: looking over your post again, I think the Startech USB HDD with inline AES encryption is *extremely* close to what you're asking for (and it overcomes all the problems I said devices like this would need to overcome in order to work). I would go with that device. &quot;Access to the encrypted data is allowed through a built-in touchpad&quot; strongly implies write capability is denied until the key is entered." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="8fdffa56-f75e-486a-8dd7-a7e0566b5209" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:05:20.567" UserId="3929" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 Watt PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model. So it was never used. It was meant to be build in a high end gaming PC and I'm looking for an optional replacement with the same purpose. I see that this one is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which new generation power supply will give me benefits over using this older model when used in a new high end gaming PC (see below)? It has to cost around the price this one did three years ago (around 150 euro). Or are the differences so minimal that it is recommended to stick with this older model?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not just curious about whether I will need a new PSU and which are suitable, I also would like to know why I should buy that model or why I shouldn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: The old model was intended to power two graphics cards, I'm not sure if I'm going that route again but if I do would that influence the answer? Take into account SLI and Crossfire as I've not made any decision yet what to buy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="7dabb730-195d-44de-961d-edc72b774d75" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:25:14.540" UserId="3929" Comment="deleted 240 characters in body" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 Watt PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model. So it was never used. It was meant to be build in a high end gaming PC and I'm looking for an optional replacement to be build into a new high end gaming PC. I see that this one is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which new generation power supply will be a mentionable replacement? If new models have some benefits, what are those benefits and is it worth to spend the extra money while I have this unused PSU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: The old model was intended to power two graphics cards, I'm not sure if I'm going that route this time but if I do would that influence the answer? Take into account SLI and Crossfire as I've not made any decision yet what to buy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="de37ebfa-f473-43f7-8d01-c63ff3e82663" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:39:30.053" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4182" RevisionGUID="095beecb-fc84-4899-bcc2-1924c6b5cd6c" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:43:13.817" UserId="3929" Comment="deleted 240 characters in body" Text="I have a Corsair AX760 Watt PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model. So it was never used. It was meant to be build in a high end gaming PC but that never happened. I see that this one is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which new generation power supply will be a mentionable replacement? Like the old model it is for a high end gaming PC too but should meet the requirements/standards for a modern gaming PC (see below). If new models have some benefits over this older one, what are those benefits and is it worth it spending the extra money while I have this unused PSU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: The old model was intended to power two graphics cards, I'm not sure if I'm going that route this time but if I do would that influence the answer? Take into account SLI and Crossfire as I've not made any decision yet what to buy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4200" RevisionGUID="bb4fb73f-0c94-4565-a931-244a51589b01" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:11:55.417" UserId="3836" Text="The old one is going to be just fine; it has not degraded and PSU technology has not changed significantly in the past 3 years. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4201" RevisionGUID="05b31540-2b86-4f5d-b0fc-7f676a4559bb" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:17:40.460" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="I actually just bought this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4W40VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has Rx/Tx so its a receiver and transmitter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What sets this one apart from all the rest is: you can use it while its charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are cheaper ones that you cant use while its charging so you have to wait.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also has excellent reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has micro USB as charging port.&#xD;&#xA;Has LED to indicate on/off not sure about Battery Level&#xD;&#xA;Latest Bluetooth 4.1 so range should be good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4201" RevisionGUID="29b5c6e6-f468-40e4-9ed6-371ac6cfa8b8" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:23:35.693" UserDisplayName="user588" Comment="added 107 characters in body; added 845 characters in body" Text="I actually just bought this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4W40VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has Rx/Tx so its a receiver and transmitter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What sets this one apart from all the rest is: you can use it while its charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are cheaper ones that you cant use while its charging so you have to wait.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also has excellent reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has micro USB as charging port.&#xD;&#xA;Has LED to indicate on/off Other light colors/modes to indicate charging/paired/pairing/etc (about 8 hours continuous use)&#xD;&#xA;Latest Bluetooth 4.1 so range should be 33ft with no barriers (your milage may wary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications: &#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth Compliance: Bluetooth V4.1, CSR 8670 chipet, A2DP&#xD;&#xA;- Transmit Range: up to 33ft / 10m &#xD;&#xA;- Supports: Dual Stream (TX mode); Multi-Point (RX mode)&#xD;&#xA;- Codec: APT-X LL(TX), APT-X(TX), SBC(TX), SBC(RX)&#xD;&#xA;- Working Time: about 8 hours&#xD;&#xA;- Charging Time: 2 hours / 5V; can be used while being recharged&#xD;&#xA;- Dimension: L 4.6 x W 3.3 x H 0.97 cm / 1.81 x 1.30 x 0.38 in &#xD;&#xA;- Net Weight: 0.51 oz / 14.5 g &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IMPORTANT:&#xD;&#xA;- Please plug in the power adapter before turning on TROND BT-DUO when using external power source;&#xD;&#xA;- TROND BT-DUO will only use aptX Low Latency when your BT headset, speaker or receiver does support aptX LL. Otherwise, TROND BT-DUO will pair down to aptX or SBC;&#xD;&#xA;- The latency of 40ms is still unacceptable for live sound monitoring. Therefore, musicians beware! TROND BT-DUO may not suit your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4202" RevisionGUID="4a0f7614-6b76-400f-a8ec-1b29683860ff" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:24:47.977" UserId="3836" Text="This is *very* close: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JM3MX9686&amp;cm_re=addon_card-_-9SIA1JM3MX9686-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7 ports. Of course you have to contend with the idea of putting all 7 of them on a single PCI-E 2.0 lane, which theoretically cannot sustain simultaneous read/write on all 7 devices, but given that USB sticks typically come nowhere close to their advertised interface's maximum throughput, this may actually work with no significant bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then again, it might also be really expensive in Norway..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4202" RevisionGUID="aa1618cf-f1f4-4371-9863-4ec39a03c175" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:34:38.793" UserId="3836" Comment="Found a better version of what I was looking for." Text="OK, finally have a solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51VzCRjXL2L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B6PHC3E1S3SC59VDXE5K#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you do is install this to get 7 ports, then add a cable to out splitter (subtract 1 USB port, add 2) to get your full 8 off a single controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speeds may be limited by the controller or the PCI-E 2.0 1x bus, but then again, USB drives usually perform far below theoretical maximums, so you might experience no bottlenecks at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then again, it might also be really expensive in Norway..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4202" RevisionGUID="629718ff-4f7c-4f46-8cf4-0ffe66ac676e" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:49:57.883" UserId="3836" Comment="edited for clarity and ease." Text="OK, finally have a [solution][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you do is install this to get 5 ports, then add a [cable to out panel][2] adapter  to get a full **9** off a single controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speeds may be limited by the controller or the PCI-E 2.0 1x bus, but then again, USB drives usually perform far below theoretical maximums, so you might experience no bottlenecks at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then again, it might also be really expensive in Norway...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-PVU3-5O2I-Internal-Connector-Controller-Black/dp/B011I5ZP9G/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468349276&amp;sr=1-20&amp;keywords=usb%203.0%20panel%20adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/E-SDS-4-Ports-Metal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B013QSTWIS/ref=sr_1_24?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468349276&amp;sr=1-24&amp;keywords=usb%203.0%20panel%20adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13106" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4192" RevisionGUID="992217f2-0d20-4715-a206-048173945038" CreationDate="2016-07-12T21:55:42.410" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4203" RevisionGUID="7df1570f-ff77-4e3e-9d09-d8658b17b37d" CreationDate="2016-07-12T22:11:17.690" UserId="3836" Text="This is a standard form-factor solution with a non-standard GPU configuration designed to overcome standard case mounting limitations and the limitations inherent to card size:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The PC itself:&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TPTFtJ&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TPTFtJ/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2699 V4 2.2GHz 22-Core OEM/Tray Processor &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2699 V4 2.2GHz 22-Core OEM/Tray Processor &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Dynatron R27 65.4 CFM Ball Bearing CPU Cooler  ($29.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Dynatron R27 65.4 CFM Ball Bearing CPU Cooler  ($29.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Asus Z10PE-D16 WS SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($484.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Silverstone FT04B-W ATX Full Tower Case  ($229.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($167.04 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive: Lite-On iHDS118-04 DVD/CD Drive  ($13.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Fan Controller: Lamptron FC-FC5V2-B Fan Controller  ($61.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    UPS: APC BR1500G UPS  ($163.70 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $2447.64&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-12 17:51 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GPU Mounting Racks and Splitter Cards][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Extra PSUs&#xD;&#xA; - Titan Xs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This setup depends on you not needing to saturate the PCI-E bus, much like in GPU bitcoin mining, where a 1x connection to each of the mining GPUs was often sufficient. Putting a splitter into each of the native PCI-E slots, you get 24 GPU connections at, I think, 1x PCI-E 2.0 each, [for a total transfer rate (theoretical) of 1000MB/s][3]. However, there are only 40 lanes on each CPU, so unless the PCH on the motherboard takes care of that part of the issue (I'm not certain how PCH works), each GPU will get something more like 833 MB/s theoretical maximum bandwidth. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Blockquote&#xD;&#xA;(4000mbs 4x PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth / 4 gpus) * 0.8325 percent lane saturation &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Blockquote&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably other ways of doing this that would net you more CPUs and thus more lanes, and I do know they make GPU backplanes that might be of use here, but this was the configuration I was comfortable recommending and I do like that it fits nicely within the desire to keep things working on a standard format workstation motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fans, coolers, RAM, storage, PSU are all just suggestions, not strict requirements - they are a common kind of configuration for builds like this that I have seen recommended before **Note that this system, as configured, would be extremely loud and might have to run headless to make the most use of your GPU/PCI-E resources.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amfeltec.com/products/gpu-oriented-cluster/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.trentonsystems.com/applications/pci-express-interface/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4203" RevisionGUID="fc390f88-a159-4935-8376-c18db50c1bab" CreationDate="2016-07-12T22:16:55.577" UserId="3836" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="This is a standard form-factor solution with a non-standard GPU configuration designed to overcome standard case mounting limitations and the limitations inherent to card size:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The PC itself:&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TPTFtJ&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TPTFtJ/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2699 V4 2.2GHz 22-Core OEM/Tray Processor &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2699 V4 2.2GHz 22-Core OEM/Tray Processor &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Dynatron R27 65.4 CFM Ball Bearing CPU Cooler  ($29.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Dynatron R27 65.4 CFM Ball Bearing CPU Cooler  ($29.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Asus Z10PE-D16 WS SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($484.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Red Pro 6TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($279.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Silverstone FT04B-W ATX Full Tower Case  ($229.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($167.04 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive: Lite-On iHDS118-04 DVD/CD Drive  ($13.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Delta Electronics FFB1212EH-F00 150.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($32.81 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Fan Controller: Lamptron FC-FC5V2-B Fan Controller  ($61.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    UPS: APC BR1500G UPS  ($163.70 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $2447.64&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-12 17:51 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [GPU Mounting Racks and Splitter Cards][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Extra PSUs&#xD;&#xA; - Titan Xs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This setup depends on you not needing to saturate the PCI-E bus, much like in GPU bitcoin mining, where a 1x connection to each of the mining GPUs was often sufficient. Putting a splitter into each of the native PCI-E slots, you get 24 GPU connections at, I think, 1x PCI-E 2.0 each, [for a total transfer rate (theoretical up+down) of 1000MB/s][3]. However, there are only 40 lanes on each CPU, so unless the PCH on the motherboard takes care of that part of the issue (I'm not certain how PCH works), each GPU will get something more like 833 MB/s theoretical maximum bandwidth. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Blockquote&#xD;&#xA;(4000mbs 4x PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth / 4 gpus) * 0.8325 percent lane saturation &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Blockquote&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably other ways of doing this that would net you more CPUs and thus more lanes, and I do know they make GPU backplanes that might be of use here, but this was the configuration I was comfortable recommending and I do like that it fits nicely within the desire to keep things working on a standard format workstation motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fans, coolers, RAM, storage, PSU are all just suggestions, not strict requirements - they are a common kind of configuration for builds like this that I have seen recommended before **Note that this system, as configured, would be extremely loud and might have to run headless to make the most use of your GPU/PCI-E resources.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://amfeltec.com/products/gpu-oriented-cluster/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.trentonsystems.com/applications/pci-express-interface/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4205" RevisionGUID="f13e67b0-1774-48f2-b2bb-68207d7036e6" CreationDate="2016-07-13T01:37:03.557" UserId="57" Text="nVidia has a desktop sized [DevBox][1]. Fair warning...it isn't cheap. You can order a fully configured, nVidia supported one for approximately $15,000. If you want to build one it's going to cost you about $8-9,000 (at least according to the math done in [this article](http://www.pyimagesearch.com/2016/06/06/hands-on-with-the-nvidia-digits-devbox-for-deep-learning/), I haven't verified the components are actually that price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![nVidia DevBox][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The DevBox has the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Four TITAN X GPUs with 12GB of memory per GPU&#xD;&#xA;- 64GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- Asus X99-E WS workstation class motherboard with 4-way PCI-E Gen3 x16 support&#xD;&#xA;- Core i7-5930K 6 Core 3.5GHz desktop processor&#xD;&#xA;- Three 3TB SATA 6Gb 3.5” Enterprise Hard Drive in RAID5&#xD;&#xA;- 512GB PCI-E M.2 SSD cache for RAID&#xD;&#xA;- 250GB SATA 6Gb Internal SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 1600W Power Supply Unit from premium suppliers including EVGA&#xD;&#xA;- Ubuntu 14.04&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA-qualified driver&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA® CUDA® Toolkit 7.0&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA® DIGITS™ SW&#xD;&#xA;- Caffe, Theano, Torch, BIDMach&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a beast of a machine and the price point (both self built and preconfigured) show that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4M3PM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4207" RevisionGUID="98ce969f-57ca-4012-a25e-c2cf681f26b8" CreationDate="2016-07-13T11:09:00.847" UserId="3891" Text="I am interested to internally integrate a CD-RW IDE unit (Plextor Plexwriter Premium 2) using the existing mainboard interface USB 3, Sata 3, PCIe mostly in burning CD's with AMQR not in ripping. As far as I've read, using a IDE converter can be a tricky job and there are some variables including chip manufacturer, etc. Is there anyone that have been used one of the above solutions without experiencing transfer problems / buffer underrun/ loss of quality? Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4207" RevisionGUID="98ce969f-57ca-4012-a25e-c2cf681f26b8" CreationDate="2016-07-13T11:09:00.847" UserId="3891" Text="CD-RW IDE to USB SATA PCIe interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4207" RevisionGUID="98ce969f-57ca-4012-a25e-c2cf681f26b8" CreationDate="2016-07-13T11:09:00.847" UserId="3891" Text="&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4208" RevisionGUID="1be9c50a-fe58-4afa-ab73-0b713de0c801" CreationDate="2016-07-13T14:07:54.283" UserId="1801" Text="As long as you are happy with 80+ Platinum and the power envelope, there have been no significant improvements in power supply technology over the past few years. A quality PSU is a quality PSU. If it's been sat in a box, it won't have degraded, as it would have under use (PSU calculators use a 10% per year worst case in their analysis, generally you get better than that though).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bottom line with a PSU is how much power it can provide, and how efficiently it provides it. The AX line was top of Corsairs range, just as the AXi line is now. The AXi switches analogue for digital regulation, but all that really adds is the ability to monitor/adjust PSU parameters from software, it doesn't inherently make the PSU more powerful or more efficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest that only upgrade if:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You need a higher power envelope for your new rig (unlikely if you are going for a recent 14nm CPU / 16nm GPU combination, especially if your original system was spec'd for dual 28nm era GPUs).&#xD;&#xA;* You want the higher power efficiently of 80+ Titanium (unlikely to be economic unless electricity prices are very high where you live).&#xD;&#xA;* You want to tinker with or monitor PSU parameters live as your system is running (doesn't seem like it is worth the expense)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4210" RevisionGUID="793f995a-a4ad-421e-9838-44accb9d44e1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T14:44:56.063" UserId="3946" Text="I have about 30 small (70mm x 50mm) &quot;tags&quot; that are used for tracking objects in a real-time location system (RTLS).  The tags can be recharged using Qi wireless charging.  Is there a charging pad available that can charge many (say 10 or more) of these tags at the same time?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4210" RevisionGUID="793f995a-a4ad-421e-9838-44accb9d44e1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T14:44:56.063" UserId="3946" Text="Charging many Qi devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4210" RevisionGUID="793f995a-a4ad-421e-9838-44accb9d44e1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T14:44:56.063" UserId="3946" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4185" RevisionGUID="52b29f41-983f-476a-b033-b827e89b0838" CreationDate="2016-07-13T15:17:25.963" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4212" RevisionGUID="d94ccbc0-6e8f-4fa9-84b0-10f0276d0df1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T15:24:56.113" UserId="1801" Text="Another option you may want to look at are Industrial single board computers based on the PICMG 1.3 spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [ROBO-8122VG2R][1] SBC supports a pair of E5-2600 series CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ROBO-8122VG2R Dual Xeon SBC][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Advantech PCE-9228][3], which actually specifies that it supports v3 CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combine these with a [quad split chassis backplane][4] and you could potentially have 8 Xeons and 4 Xeon Phi's in a single 4U 19&quot; rack chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Quad split chassis backplane][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure this would be any more compact than a cluster of 1U rack servers, but I suspect that they might be easier to work on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.portwell.com/products/detail.php?CUSTCHAR1=ROBO-8122VG2R&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/TnkUH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.advantech.com/products/1-2jkp2l/pce-9228/mod_bcc2d67f-c3d8-4344-bd5e-a1a54554e84f&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.advantech.com/products/1-f92ygh/pce-5b16q-02a1e/mod_23ab50f7-51d7-4c80-b307-a555fd289ebf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/29saW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="ee0192f5-1085-4e52-ac5e-823d54d7f602" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:37:11.400" UserId="3944" Text="If I were to want to start vlogging but not want to hold a camera around all day, I was curious if there are recommendations for the best hands free camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would prefer camera if it's:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Hands Free&#xD;&#xA;-Easy to record with&#xD;&#xA;-HD&#xD;&#xA;-Can easily record area of my view (where I am lookin or facing whether I am looking straight up or looking at my phone)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="ee0192f5-1085-4e52-ac5e-823d54d7f602" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:37:11.400" UserId="3944" Text="Best Hands Free Camera to record footage for Youtube?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="ee0192f5-1085-4e52-ac5e-823d54d7f602" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:37:11.400" UserId="3944" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4200" RevisionGUID="7e051c60-25a2-4cea-9f92-40f0fc719548" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:37:14.417" UserId="3836" Comment="added 1353 characters in body" Text="The old one is going to be just fine; it has not degraded and PSU technology has not changed significantly in the past 3 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from my own personal experience with pulling out heavily used and abused OEM PSUs from computers discarded into trash heaps for fun (yes, I'm *that* guy), there don't seem to be that many good studies of the reasons PSUs decay. There are many anecdotal discussions which mirror my own experiences to greater/lesser degrees: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/31j95k/brothers_how_long_does_a_psu_typically_last/, but generally what this comes down to is so-called &quot;common sense.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PSU is fundamentally a very robust bit of solid state technology save everything except the fan(s). The fan is, because it is a mechanical part, the single most likely point of failure. Capacitors and such age over time, reducing their efficiency and tolerance, but this is a slow process with good units and even (usually) with bad old OEM units. The only other thing I know of which is KNOWN to degrade PSU technology is heat, which it would not experience sitting in storage unless it was stored in a very hot place like an attic in Arizona or something. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the technology advancing, the best way to prove this to you is simply to refer you to sites like Newegg, Amazon, Directron, or similar, because you will see all the perks of your PSU are still being advertised as perks on modern PSUs. There is really no fundamental difference. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4200" RevisionGUID="66341071-3628-4893-ad19-484ee75b4909" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:45:49.523" UserId="3836" Comment="added 288 characters in body" Text="The old one is going to be just fine; it has not degraded and PSU technology has not changed significantly in the past 3 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from my own personal experience with pulling out heavily used and abused OEM PSUs from computers discarded into trash heaps for fun (yes, I'm *that* guy), there don't seem to be that many good studies of the reasons PSUs decay. There are many anecdotal discussions which mirror my own experiences to greater/lesser degrees: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/31j95k/brothers_how_long_does_a_psu_typically_last/, but generally what this comes down to is so-called &quot;common sense.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PSU is fundamentally a very robust bit of solid state technology save everything except the fan(s). The fan is, because it is a mechanical part, the single most likely point of failure. Capacitors and such age over time, reducing their efficiency and tolerance, but this is a slow process with good units and even (usually) with bad old OEM units. The only other thing I know of which is KNOWN to degrade PSU technology is heat, which it would not experience sitting in storage unless it was stored in a very hot place like an attic in Arizona or something. [NASA has some documentation][1] on how they test for MTBF in solid-state electrical systems, and you can see from their methodology that heat and electrical current are the real threats to aged components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the technology advancing, the best way to prove this to you is simply to refer you to sites like Newegg, Amazon, Directron, or similar, because you will see all the perks of your PSU are still being advertised as perks on modern PSUs. There is really no fundamental difference. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20110011744.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4214" RevisionGUID="908d48e4-93b8-440f-a6fc-9be4364716f8" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:47:20.360" UserId="3836" Text="In terms of getting standardized performance out of your IDE drive, the best advice I can give you is to add an [IDE controller card][1] to your PC so that you can get a direct IDE to bus connection going over the PCI or PCI-E interface. I've had bad luck getting SATA &gt; IDE adapters to work and would not recommend them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big problem here is that an IDE controller card costs about as much as, if not more than, [a new SATA DVD-RW drive][2], which would also yield increased performance. It might make more sense simply to bite the bullet and upgrade the drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124009&amp;cm_re=ide_controller_card-_-16-124-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA10V45V8081&amp;cm_re=DVD-rW_drive-_-9SIA10V45V8081-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="ce673f17-6ce1-484b-97b6-5f8bb578ba7f" CreationDate="2016-07-13T22:26:49.643" UserId="476" Comment="Cleaned up this mess.." Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start vlogging, but I don't want to hold a camera all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what the best hands-free camera is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Hands Free &#xD;&#xA; - Easy to record with HD &#xD;&#xA; - Can easily record where I am looking&#xD;&#xA;   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13143" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="3dd85982-2b87-4e3f-b7c7-baf27a97ae81" CreationDate="2016-07-13T22:54:33.483" UserId="476" Comment="Added headers" Text="Introduction&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ (Since this is perhaps subjective, what I really want to know is measurements of the performance difference.) And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Subsequently Added Info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using my system for data processing. Typically this involves a small number of CPU operations on large (~ 6 terrabytes) quantities of data. As a consequence, performance is usually limited by memory bandwidth and disk bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disk bandwidth is typically a problem which you can either deal with in an effective way by changing how your code works (eg; parallelize it so less time is spend loading data from disk), or you can't deal with at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory bandwidth is subject to a large number of things. In my experience, 3 channel memory will ensure exactly 3 times more bandwidth than an identical system in single channel mode. I would assume intel have reverted to average consumer CPU's being dual channel because most users, even gamers, probably do not run up against memory bottlenecks in the everyday use of their computers. Having &quot;more megahertz&quot; in your RAM is often only useful if your CPU/motherboard combination can run at those higher speeds. For example, the motherboard I am using with the i7 920 has memory speeds of 1066 / 1333 Mhz, and up to 1866 Mhz as &quot;overclock&quot;. But I could never get anywhere near that. 1333 was sometimes a challenge, and the memory I was using was rated 1600 Mhz...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Appendix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some info here which compares intel i7 920 to 6700K and 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-920-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the info on this website makes no sense. They conclude that they recommend the 6700K even though it performs worse in single process and mutli-process tests. I personally do not think this is a reliable source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="c84eb220-ee51-4a9c-ba70-08a01ab01cf5" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:10:38.043" UserId="57" Comment="Change from &quot;best&quot; to hardware request" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start vlogging, but I don't want to hold a camera all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the following preferences for the camera:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hands Free &#xD;&#xA; - Easy to record with HD &#xD;&#xA; - Can easily record where I am looking&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;What camera options do I have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13145" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="c84eb220-ee51-4a9c-ba70-08a01ab01cf5" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:10:38.043" UserId="57" Comment="Change from &quot;best&quot; to hardware request" Text="Hands Free Camera to record footage for Youtube?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="fd9b14c8-c726-4863-afe1-1bb218e5ea1c" CreationDate="2016-07-14T01:06:26.510" UserId="3867" Comment="Rollback to [9148fd74-36ff-4c16-b804-269ada6f2d01]" Text="I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ (Since this is perhaps subjective, what I really want to know is measurements of the performance difference.) And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Subsequently Added Info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using my system for data processing. Typically this involves a small number of CPU operations on large (~ 6 terrabytes) quantities of data. As a consequence, performance is usually limited by memory bandwidth and disk bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disk bandwidth is typically a problem which you can either deal with in an effective way by changing how your code works (eg; parallelize it so less time is spend loading data from disk), or you can't deal with at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory bandwidth is subject to a large number of things. In my experience, 3 channel memory will ensure exactly 3 times more bandwidth than an identical system in single channel mode. I would assume intel have reverted to average consumer CPU's being dual channel because most users, even gamers, probably do not run up against memory bottlenecks in the everyday use of their computers. Having &quot;more megahertz&quot; in your RAM is often only useful if your CPU/motherboard combination can run at those higher speeds. For example, the motherboard I am using with the i7 920 has memory speeds of 1066 / 1333 Mhz, and up to 1866 Mhz as &quot;overclock&quot;. But I could never get anywhere near that. 1333 was sometimes a challenge, and the memory I was using was rated 1600 Mhz...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Appendix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some info here which compares intel i7 920 to 6700K and 4790K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-920-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the info on this website makes no sense. They conclude that they recommend the 6700K even though it performs worse in single process and mutli-process tests. I personally do not think this is a reliable source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13147" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4207" RevisionGUID="3b728cc6-a07c-4439-86f8-0beae2d32d09" CreationDate="2016-07-14T04:31:43.790" UserId="3891" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am interested to internally integrate a CD-RW IDE unit (Plextor Plexwriter Premium 2) using the existing mainboard interface USB 3, Sata 3, PCIe mostly in burning CD's with AMQR not in ripping. As far as I've read, using an IDE converter can be a tricky job and there are some variables including chip manufacturer, etc. Is there anyone that have been used one of the above solutions without experiencing transfer problems / buffer underrun/ loss of quality? Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4025" RevisionGUID="fc6c30ee-23fc-4792-8dfc-22e776926bb7" CreationDate="2016-07-14T05:56:14.250" UserId="1388" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="I need a router with OpenVPN. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking into a router with OpenWRT or DD-WRT support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router must be able to handle OpenVPN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need as many LAN Ports as possible. Minimum of 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have much money so I want the cheapest one possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="c6eee881-5352-40a1-a69a-09af5624defe" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:10:27.290" UserId="3944" Comment="added 207 characters in body" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start vlogging, but I don't want to hold a camera all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the following preferences for the camera:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hands Free &#xD;&#xA; - Easy to record with HD &#xD;&#xA; - Can easily record where I am looking&#xD;&#xA; - HD 720p lowest preferred&#xD;&#xA; - Under $300&#xD;&#xA; - Chest mounted unless there's a head camera which is unnoticeable&#xD;&#xA; - Would prefer if the camera is unnoticeable (I'm shy of the idea of recording in public)&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: I'm not sure to be honest but anything under 5lbs sounds good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;What camera options do I have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4213" RevisionGUID="cf73eed8-ed34-47b3-863f-aaaddb2fbb7f" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:28:02.757" UserId="3944" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start vlogging, but I don't want to hold a camera all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the following preferences for the camera:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hands Free &#xD;&#xA; - Easy to record with HD &#xD;&#xA; - Can easily record where I am looking&#xD;&#xA; - HD 720p @ 30 fps lowest preferred&#xD;&#xA; - Under $300&#xD;&#xA; - Chest mounted unless there's a head camera which is unnoticeable&#xD;&#xA; - Would prefer if the camera is unnoticeable (I'm shy of the idea of recording in public)&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: I'm not sure to be honest but anything under 5lbs sounds good.&#xD;&#xA; - Would appreciate if it can last over 4 hours of recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;What camera options do I have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4216" RevisionGUID="d69551dd-0784-4e6f-aac8-68c39f49ba21" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:46:35.790" UserId="3836" Text="I agree with most of what Alpha3031 told you, but I think there are better options for your use case than the 860K. To explain, I'm going to go a little into the nuances of CPU lid design, and hyperthreading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend you look for a slightly more expensive 870K or 880K (also on the FM2+ socket) - and failing that, you should strongly consider a Haswell or Skylake i3 (sockets 1150 or 1151) clocked at or above 3.5ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason one such as yourself would care about the differences between the 860K and the 870K/880K are small, but worth the price difference in your case. First of all, whereas the 860K has paste TIM between its die and the CPU lid, the 870K and 880K, both Godavari refreshes of the Kaveri Steamroller design of the 860K, sport the superior metal flux between their dies and lids - this transfers heat between the die and lid much better than paste. This matters to you because you will want to make your CPU last longer than it probably otherwise would at stock speeds, so you will be overclocking, the success of which partly depends on how well you can dissipate waste heat from the CPU. With a good air or water cooler and the proper amount of overvolting, I would expect the average 870K/880K to reach somewhere around 4.6-4.8ghz, whereas it seems the 860K reaches lower top speeds on average; say 4.3-4.5ghz. Normally I'd say quibbling over a few hundred megahertz is not worth it, but you'll want everything you can get, I think. A potential alternative would be the weird Athlon X4 845 (FM2+), because it sports a superior IPC to the bigger chips as it is designed from the newer Carrizo Excavator architecture, but it is not unlocked and the newer arch only gives you 10-15% better performance at best. If for some reason you were unable to overclock and needed to stay with AMD (say to keep prices down), I'd recommend that CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option is, somewhat surprisingly, to spring for a low-end Intel i3 CPU. Many people disparage i3 CPUs due to their dual core architectures, but since i3s use hyperthreading, they actually operate 4 threads, which makes them quad cores as far as games are concerned - software only sees threads, not physical cores. The great advantage to choosing these more expensive Intel parts is twofold - you will get to put it on a motherboard socket with significantly more upgrade potential than FM2+ (FM2+ doesn't really have any CPUs with superior performance to the 880K while the 1150 and 1151 sockets support the vastly more powerful i7 and Xeon series), and as Alpha3031 indicated, Intel CPUs have *much* higher IPC, meaning they perform much faster on each core than AMD's offerings. While their overall performance tends to bring them neck and neck with AMD's Steamroller quad cores, they can't be beat for single thread performance at this price point, and you will see markedly better performance from an i3 over even an overclocked Athlon in games which utilize only 1 or 2 threads.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13159" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4216" RevisionGUID="f19a4056-ccc1-4b85-a966-4bfbde195845" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:52:19.537" UserId="3836" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I agree with most of what Alpha3031 told you, but I think there are better options for your use case than the 860K. To explain, I'm going to go a little into the nuances of CPU lid design and hyperthreading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend you look for a slightly more expensive 870K or 880K (also on the FM2+ socket) - and failing that, you should strongly consider a Haswell or Skylake i3 (sockets 1150 or 1151) clocked at or above 3.5ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason one such as yourself would care about the differences between the 860K and the 870K/880K are small, but worth the price difference in your case. First of all, whereas the 860K has paste TIM between its die and the CPU lid, the 870K and 880K, both Godavari refreshes of the Kaveri Steamroller design of the 860K, sport the superior metal flux between their dies and lids - this transfers heat between the die and lid much better than paste. This matters to you because you will want to make your CPU last longer than it probably otherwise would at stock speeds, so you will be overclocking, the success of which partly depends on how well you can dissipate waste heat from the CPU. With a good air or water cooler and the proper amount of overvolting, I would expect the average 870K/880K to reach somewhere around 4.6-4.8ghz, whereas it seems the 860K reaches lower top speeds on average; say 4.3-4.5ghz. Normally I'd say quibbling over a few hundred megahertz is not worth it, but you'll want everything you can get, I think. A potential alternative would be the weird Athlon X4 845 (FM2+), because it sports a superior IPC to the bigger chips as it is designed from the newer Carrizo Excavator architecture, but it is not unlocked and the newer arch only gives you 10-15% better performance at best. If for some reason you were unable to overclock and needed to stay with AMD (say to keep prices down), I'd recommend that CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option is, somewhat surprisingly, to spring for a low-end Intel i3 CPU. Many people disparage i3 CPUs due to their dual core architectures, but since i3s use hyperthreading, they actually operate 4 threads, which makes them quad cores as far as games are concerned - software only sees threads, not physical cores. The great advantage to choosing these more expensive Intel parts is twofold - you will get to put it on a motherboard socket with significantly more upgrade potential than FM2+ (FM2+ doesn't really have any CPUs with superior performance to the 880K while the 1150 and 1151 sockets support the vastly more powerful i7 and Xeon series), and as Alpha3031 indicated, Intel CPUs have *much* higher IPC, meaning they perform much faster on each core than AMD's offerings. While their overall performance tends to bring them neck and neck with AMD's Steamroller quad cores, they can't be beat for single thread performance at this price point, and you will see markedly better performance from an i3 over even an overclocked Athlon in games which utilize only 1 or 2 threads.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13160" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4217" RevisionGUID="997d8fda-cca3-4f79-85c7-40faee993e3a" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:07:37.853" UserId="3836" Text="OK, I think I have a solution that will be very close to what you originally had in mind: a [USB hub with individual port power switches][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By turning power on and off to two keyboards attached to this hub, you can have two keyboards attached to a single computer that don't get in the way of each other - they can be locked out from entering commands until power is restored to their port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817366050&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Hubs%20-%20Network%20%2F%20USB%20%2F%20Firewire-_-N82E16817366050&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw8Jy8BRCE0pOC9qzRhkMSJABC1pvJByP0-HA8k5REM7T-2B2jaRMQb_9UYLV_n7iu4plTHhoCD9Pw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4218" RevisionGUID="a43df1ad-4059-4948-9bf5-ca213acc5368" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:58:53.107" UserId="3836" Text="I used to have a wonderful Microsoft Intellimouse 3.0 - it had excellent button layout, size, and AFAIK a great sensor on it. Unfortunately I think the right click button has worn out, so I'll need to replace it (if you think it can be repaired let me know that *along* with your replacement suggestion).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want in a mouse:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- laser/optical&#xD;&#xA;- two thumb buttons (forward/backward ideally)&#xD;&#xA;- medium size&#xD;&#xA;- smooth scrolling a plus&#xD;&#xA;- sensor polling and sensitivity relatively high&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired&#xD;&#xA;- DPI switch button a plus&#xD;&#xA;- no glued on &quot;grips&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- if lit, white, green, or configurable lights are preferred&#xD;&#xA;- scanner mouse would be neat - can it still be a good gaming mouse?&#xD;&#xA;- easy to clean underside&#xD;&#xA;- ideally less than $40" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13162" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4218" RevisionGUID="a43df1ad-4059-4948-9bf5-ca213acc5368" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:58:53.107" UserId="3836" Text="I need a good gaming/scanning mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13163" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4218" RevisionGUID="a43df1ad-4059-4948-9bf5-ca213acc5368" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:58:53.107" UserId="3836" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4221" RevisionGUID="2763d228-8bc5-4dbd-96da-9215b5a71cda" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:35:56.877" UserId="476" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Clock speed ('Ghz') is not all that matters when it comes to performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quite a few things can dictate how well a certain CPU performs, including but not limited to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - IPC (difficult to obtain information about)&#xD;&#xA; - Arcithecture ('nm')&#xD;&#xA; - Clock speed ('Ghz')&#xD;&#xA; - Cache ('MB' &amp; 'KB')&#xD;&#xA; - Cores (1,2,4,6,8,etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, a CPU's desirability can furthermore be increased/decreased by how many features it has and what chipset it uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hyperthreading (Virtual cores)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM capacity &#xD;&#xA; - RAM channels (Complicated stuff, not too much to worry about)&#xD;&#xA; - Chipset (Does it support modern motherboards?)&#xD;&#xA; - Integrated graphics (does not require a separate graphics card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - [i3-4005U][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [Pentium 4 2.8Ghz][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**(i3 on the left, P4 on the right)&#xD;&#xA;(Higher is better!)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **[Passmark][3]** | 2435 | 325 | i3-4005U is 650% better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately there are no other benchmarks that I can find that contain information on both the i3-4005U and the Pentium 4 since the Pentium 4 is 11 years older than the i3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get the i3-4005U because it is far less outdated, requires no dedicated graphics card, uses a less outdated chipset, and performs much better in terms of single core performance and (because it has a second core) dual core performance.&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/75105/Intel-Core-i3-4005U-Processor-3M-Cache-1_70-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/27447/Intel-Pentium-4-Processor-2_80-GHz-512K-Cache-533-MHz-FSB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://cpubenchmark.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4190" RevisionGUID="3e2bb14b-4f99-4608-97dc-9a8b2b0fb0ad" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:38:37.250" UserId="476" Comment="GRAMMAR POLICE SWEEPED UP THE MESS" Text="I am planning to build a computer and my first problem was the processor. I saw many options on the market and am interested in choosing between these two. I'm thinking on choosing the i3 because it's part of the generation of 'i series', but someone told me to look for it's clock speed which is 'GHz'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I am uncertain of which to purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4221" RevisionGUID="1f556c47-2a95-417c-9bbe-b8ed8ba1b649" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:44:31.297" UserId="476" Comment="Added stuff" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Clock speed ('Ghz') is not all that matters when it comes to performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quite a few things can dictate how well a certain CPU performs, including but not limited to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - IPC (instructions per cycle)&#xD;&#xA; - Arcithecture ('nm')&#xD;&#xA; - Clock speed ('Ghz')&#xD;&#xA; - Cache ('MB' &amp; 'KB')&#xD;&#xA; - Cores (1,2,4,6,8,etc.) (multi thread performance)&#xD;&#xA; - TDP ('W','Watts') (Power consumption)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, a CPU's desirability can furthermore be increased/decreased by how many features it has and what chipset it uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Hyperthreading (Virtual cores)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM capacity &#xD;&#xA; - RAM channels (Complicated stuff, not too much to worry about)&#xD;&#xA; - Chipset (Does it support modern motherboards?)&#xD;&#xA; - Integrated graphics (does not require a separate graphics card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparison&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - [i3-4005U][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [Pentium 4 2.8Ghz][2]&#xD;&#xA; - i3 uses 22nm architecture, P4 uses 120nm&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has a 15W TDP, P4 has a 65W TDP&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has integrated graphics&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has hyperthreading&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has 2 cores, P4 has 1 core&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has a newer chipset&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has a built in memory controller&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has more cache&#xD;&#xA; - i3 has a variety of features the P4 doesn't&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**(i3 on the left, P4 on the right)&#xD;&#xA;(Higher is better!)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **[Passmark][3]** | 2435 | 325 | i3-4005U is 650% better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately there are no other benchmarks that I can find that contain information on both the i3-4005U and the Pentium 4 since the Pentium 4 is 11 years older than the i3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get the i3-4005U because it is far less outdated, requires no dedicated graphics card, uses a less outdated chipset, and performs much better in terms of single core performance and (because it has a second core) dual core performance.&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/75105/Intel-Core-i3-4005U-Processor-3M-Cache-1_70-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/27447/Intel-Pentium-4-Processor-2_80-GHz-512K-Cache-533-MHz-FSB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://cpubenchmark.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4223" RevisionGUID="161043b5-9c6c-48d3-9ba9-6309ef6e92b3" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:46:02.407" UserId="3957" Text="I'm looking for recommendations for a &quot;Fiber Inspection Scope&quot; to use on SC, LC and MTP connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My environment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small Datacenter. &#xD;&#xA; - will have to inspect and trouble shoot about 10&#xD;&#xA;   fiber optic links per week.&#xD;&#xA; - connection types: SC, LC and MTP.&#xD;&#xA; - cable types: multi mode and single mode." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4223" RevisionGUID="161043b5-9c6c-48d3-9ba9-6309ef6e92b3" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:46:02.407" UserId="3957" Text="Recommendations for a &quot;Fiber Inspection Scope&quot; to use on SC, LC and MTP connections" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13179" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4223" RevisionGUID="161043b5-9c6c-48d3-9ba9-6309ef6e92b3" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:46:02.407" UserId="3957" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4224" RevisionGUID="1c555e79-0d00-442d-9d5e-4df7789429e6" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:31:59.947" UserId="3959" Text="I am in the market for an android tablet, I am mostly rounded down to an 8&quot; model (though not 100% on this) . Looking at the Asus Zenpad s 8.0 or the Galaxy S2 8.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary uses will be watching movies on the plane (I travel a lot) and using the Hema Explorer GPS tracking and navigation app for offroad driving. ANd some games, but not a key purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My movies/tv will be a mix of Google Play store rentals, Netflix, stan and the Virgin Entertainment system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current phone is a Xperia Z3 compact, I like having a compact phone so don't want to upgrade. I have run the Hema app on my phone, it lagged a bit when recording tracks. So performance of the tablet is pretty important to me. My main concerns with above tablets is the aspect ratio and watching movies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So ;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend that is on the current market (US or AU)? &#xD;&#xA;In real world how much screen do i actually lose with the 4:3 aspect ratio watching movies&#xD;&#xA;I really don't want to spend over $500, buying from the US should make this possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered iPad as well, but i am in the Android ecosystem so unless there is some great reason why it would suit me better i just don't see the point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA&#xD;&#xA;Ty" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4224" RevisionGUID="1c555e79-0d00-442d-9d5e-4df7789429e6" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:31:59.947" UserId="3959" Text="Asus Zenpad S 8.0 vs Galaxy Tab S2 8.0 - Travel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4224" RevisionGUID="1c555e79-0d00-442d-9d5e-4df7789429e6" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:31:59.947" UserId="3959" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4225" RevisionGUID="8dba5bb8-d51e-4b27-b2e6-fc972d242931" CreationDate="2016-07-15T00:33:22.177" UserId="415" Text="The Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury meets most of the requirements. It is a little more than your ideal price. It is $49.99 on newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=g402&amp;N=-1&amp;isNodeId=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is a wired laser/optical mouse&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution is from 240 to 4000 DPI at 1000hz data polling&#xD;&#xA;- It has three configurable thumb buttons and two other macro buttons. Any of which can be configured as a DPS button&#xD;&#xA;- It has a blue light, but it is configurable if you want to adjust it or turn it off.&#xD;&#xA;- It has solid construction&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is a larger mouse&#xD;&#xA;- It is not a scanner mouse&#xD;&#xA;- It does not have smooth scrolling  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13198" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4224" RevisionGUID="4c7da832-8a5b-42eb-8b07-09b19cf5eb01" CreationDate="2016-07-15T08:11:48.707" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="I am in the market for an android tablet, I am mostly rounded down to an 8&quot; model (though not 100% on this) . Looking at the Asus Zenpad s 8.0 or the Galaxy S2 8.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary uses will be watching movies on the plane (I travel a lot) and using the Hema Explorer GPS tracking and navigation app for offroad driving. ANd some games, but not a key purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My movies/tv will be a mix of Google Play store rentals, Netflix, stan and the Virgin Entertainment system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current phone is a Xperia Z3 compact, I like having a compact phone so don't want to upgrade. I have run the Hema app on my phone, it lagged a bit when recording tracks. So performance of the tablet is pretty important to me. My main concerns with above tablets is the aspect ratio and watching movies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So ;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend that is on the current market (US or AU)? &#xD;&#xA;In real world how much screen do i actually lose with the 4:3 aspect ratio watching movies&#xD;&#xA;I really don't want to spend over $500, buying from the US should make this possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered iPad as well, but i am in the Android ecosystem so unless there is some great reason why it would suit me better i just don't see the point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4218" RevisionGUID="780dd1ad-3745-490a-850c-38b007b0f423" CreationDate="2016-07-15T13:13:31.760" UserId="3836" Comment="edited title" Text="I need a good mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4223" RevisionGUID="ab01de0f-3308-4741-8227-4f9e1965d04a" CreationDate="2016-07-15T14:12:12.087" UserId="3957" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for recommendations for a &quot;Fiber Inspection Scope&quot; to use on SC, LC and MTP connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My environment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small Datacenter. &#xD;&#xA; - will have to inspect and trouble shoot about 10&#xD;&#xA;   fiber optic links per week.&#xD;&#xA; - connection types: SC, LC and MTP.&#xD;&#xA; - cable types: multi mode and single mode.&#xD;&#xA; - Generalist Skill level&#xD;&#xA; - Budget $100 - $500 USD " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4229" RevisionGUID="c205e691-b585-4d6f-946a-d40014ecdb72" CreationDate="2016-07-15T14:21:32.763" UserId="3836" Text="You don't have to buy the additional parts of the Raspberry Pi in order for it to boot up and run your server. All you need is the power charger, the Pi itself, and an SD card large enough to run your system. I recommend the Pi, because it is much better supported than competing SBCs, there are models with wifi and bluetooth built in (Raspberry Pi 3), and ultimately it will provide you with more performance for less money than other solutions, both because of its integrated components and because good support means better production results overall, plus added benefits like well-understood overclocking, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="586a9f37-27e4-4591-be23-811c1aaf7dba" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:57:36.260" UserId="476" Text="Introduction&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a graphics card (GPU) with a performance ~3x better than my current GPU, a Radeon HD 7850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price &lt; $120 (If it costs more and I can get it used for this price that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Performance at least 2x better than the HD 7850&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with windows&#xD;&#xA; - nVidia **preferable**, but anything more than a miniscule performance downgrade and I'll take AMD&#xD;&#xA; - I can wait a few months if something is coming out&#xD;&#xA; - I'd prefer not to do SLI/CrossFireX, but if the peformance benefit is substantial, I'll consider doing it with two cheap cards.&#xD;&#xA; - TDP &lt;= 300W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Information&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I play games such as Team Fortress 2, Trackmania 2, Trackmania United, Minecraft, SimCity 4, Hearthstone, Heroes of the Storm, and World of Warcraft (trial version lol).&#xD;&#xA; - I also do Blender rendering, however this supports OpenCL and CUDA now so AMD is not a concern&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By the way...&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would prefer if you provided benchmarks, links and maybe the occasional picture to back up your answer. Thanks!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="586a9f37-27e4-4591-be23-811c1aaf7dba" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:57:36.260" UserId="476" Text="Graphics card with better performance than AMD HD 7850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="586a9f37-27e4-4591-be23-811c1aaf7dba" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:57:36.260" UserId="476" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="e383788e-ddf1-4a7b-9c73-0d2a967ca03d" CreationDate="2016-07-15T19:08:20.113" UserId="476" Comment="added 164 characters in body" Text="Introduction&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a graphics card (GPU) with a performance ~3x better than my current GPU, a Radeon HD 7850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price &lt; $120 (If it costs more and I can get it used for this price that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Performance at least 2x better than the HD 7850&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with windows&#xD;&#xA; - nVidia **preferable**, but anything more than a miniscule performance downgrade and I'll take AMD&#xD;&#xA; - I can wait a few months if something is coming out&#xD;&#xA; - I'd prefer not to do SLI/CrossFireX, but if the peformance benefit is substantial, I'll consider doing it with two cheap cards.&#xD;&#xA; - TDP &lt;= 300W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Information&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I play games such as Team Fortress 2, Trackmania 2, Trackmania United, Minecraft, SimCity 4, Hearthstone, Heroes of the Storm, and World of Warcraft (trial version lol).&#xD;&#xA; - I also do Blender rendering, however this supports OpenCL and CUDA now so AMD is not a concern&#xD;&#xA; - I have done my research and know about cards such as the GTX 960, GTX 770, R9 280X, R9 280, HD 7970, etc. I just want to know if there's something I've missed.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By the way...&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would prefer if you provided benchmarks, links and maybe the occasional picture to back up your answer. Thanks!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="1d584634-7d49-40d4-b509-1e404937496d" CreationDate="2016-07-15T19:35:45.193" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body" Text="Introduction&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a graphics card (GPU) with a performance ~3x better than my current GPU, a Radeon HD 7850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price &lt; $120 (If it costs more and I can get it used for this price that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Performance at least 2x better than the HD 7850&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with windows&#xD;&#xA; - nVidia **preferable**, but anything more than a miniscule performance downgrade and I'll take AMD&#xD;&#xA; - I can wait a few months if something is coming out&#xD;&#xA; - I'd prefer not to do SLI/CrossFireX, but if the peformance benefit is substantial, I'll consider doing it with two cheap cards.&#xD;&#xA; - TDP &lt;= 300W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Information&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I play games such as Team Fortress 2, Trackmania 2, Trackmania United, Minecraft, SimCity 4, Hearthstone, Heroes of the Storm, and World of Warcraft.&#xD;&#xA; - I also do Blender rendering, however this supports OpenCL and CUDA now so AMD is not a concern&#xD;&#xA; - I have done my research and know about cards such as the GTX 960, GTX 770, R9 280X, R9 280, HD 7970, etc. I just want to know if there's something I've missed.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I would prefer if you provided benchmarks, links and maybe the occasional picture to back up your answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4231" RevisionGUID="9851e38b-e7f1-4f1b-9fc0-3107548d502f" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:22:41.223" UserId="241" Text="There's nothing that meets both your price requirement and your performance requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price-wise, the traditional budget GPU is the 750 Ti at around $90-$100, but it's slightly *less* powerful than your current card; $120 gets you a factory-overclocked 750 Ti that just about matches your card for performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance-wise, three times your current performance is the GTX 980, at a price of around $400." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4233" RevisionGUID="fa705197-51e0-4043-8200-50db345a4848" CreationDate="2016-07-16T10:25:26.377" UserId="2143" Text="I have a little home-server that is now around 16 to 17 years old (yea, I know, a really long time ...). It always did a great job and never let me down. But now it is time to eather upgrade the hardware, or buy a complete new one because over the time my claims and usage ot the server changed. At the beginning it was a little data and webserver for developing purposes. Now I want to use it for developing, compiling and as a game server. So more power would be great^^  &#xD;&#xA;The problem is that my strength lies neither in the English language, nor in hardware understanding. So I really hope you guys can help me with the decicion:  &#xD;&#xA;A complete new server, or upgrading this one?  &#xD;&#xA;I guess a new one is the better option because of the hardware age. But then I have no idea, what hardware to buy for a good and solid server. It does not need a DC/DVD-Drive and one SSHD or HDD is enouph (I have an NAS in the network, so for data storage there is enouph space).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Currently it has this components:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus AT5NM10-I ATOM D510 be quiet Pure Power&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: ?&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Mobile Intel Celeron M-A, 1682 MHz (2.5 x 673)&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 2GB (2x1GB no idea what DDR type ... maybe 2?)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: 	Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator 3150 (128 MB)&#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: ?&#xD;&#xA;    case: ?&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I am really sorry, that the report is so bad. But I used two hardware report programs that could not detect all of the hardware components. It seems, that most of them are really old ...  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Can someone maybe help me by finding new parts for a new server? what are good components?  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My imagination: dual 2.5GHz or better a quad with at least 2GHz, 8GB RAM, 1TB SSHD, a small case, a quiet power supply, no CD-/DVD-Drive, USB 3.0, one LAN (i think two would be overkill).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;greetings and thank you in advance,  &#xD;&#xA;Chriss  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;PS.: Sorry for my bad english." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4233" RevisionGUID="fa705197-51e0-4043-8200-50db345a4848" CreationDate="2016-07-16T10:25:26.377" UserId="2143" Text="upgrade old personal Server hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4233" RevisionGUID="fa705197-51e0-4043-8200-50db345a4848" CreationDate="2016-07-16T10:25:26.377" UserId="2143" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4233" RevisionGUID="7d877374-e154-41f6-8b92-4c0c5d1cdd64" CreationDate="2016-07-16T15:08:03.267" UserId="2143" Comment="added 851 characters in body" Text="I have a little home-server that is now around 16 to 17 years old (yea, I know, a really long time ...). It always did a great job and never let me down. But now it is time to eather upgrade the hardware, or buy a complete new one because over the time my claims and usage ot the server changed. At the beginning it was a little data and webserver for developing purposes. Now I want to use it for developing, compiling and as a game server. So more power would be great^^  &#xD;&#xA;The problem is that my strength lies neither in the English language, nor in hardware understanding. So I really hope you guys can help me with the decicion:  &#xD;&#xA;A complete new server, or upgrading this one?  &#xD;&#xA;I guess a new one is the better option because of the hardware age. But then I have no idea, what hardware to buy for a good and solid server. It does not need a DC/DVD-Drive and one SSHD or HDD is enouph (I have an NAS in the network, so for data storage there is enouph space).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Currently it has this components:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus AT5NM10-I ATOM D510 be quiet Pure Power&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: ?&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Mobile Intel Celeron M-A, 1682 MHz (2.5 x 673)&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 2GB (2x1GB no idea what DDR type ... maybe 2?)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: 	Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator 3150 (128 MB)&#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: ?&#xD;&#xA;    case: ?&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I am really sorry, that the report is so bad. But I used two hardware report programs that could not detect all of the hardware components. It seems, that most of them are really old ...  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Can someone maybe help me by finding new parts for a new server? what are good components?  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My imagination:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - dual 2.5GHz or better a quad with at least 2GHz, 8GB RAM, 1TB SSHD, a small case, a quiet power supply, no CD-/DVD-Drive, USB 3.0, one LAN (i think two would be overkill).  &#xD;&#xA; - The server should last five to ten years  &#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to pay the price such a server will cost^^ (maybe arount 1k max, is this realistic?)  &#xD;&#xA; - no downtimes would be great, but unnecessary. The old one had once a hard disc crash, so it was offline, and otherwise when I reebooted it. So there is no need to have a 100% save server. 24/7 with 99% uptime would be nice :)  &#xD;&#xA; - A raid to avoid data loss is necessary in the future (raid 1 would be enough)  &#xD;&#xA; - for the case: Currently the old server has a tower similar to [this][1] with the dimentions 19x21x29[cm] and is standing in an open cabinet. I am open to a new shape or form for the new server. But in the end he takes the place of the old one. So I guess a rack-mounted one would be pointless.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;greetings and thank you in advance,  &#xD;&#xA;Chriss  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;PS.: Sorry for my bad english.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Xpi7m%2BqfL._SL160_.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4233" RevisionGUID="48e64322-d177-41ab-b9c5-df190b57c369" CreationDate="2016-07-16T17:36:32.233" UserId="2143" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I have a little home-server that is now around 8 years old (I calculated the age wrong at first ...). It always did a great job and never let me down. But now it is time to eather upgrade the hardware, or buy a complete new one because over the time my claims and usage ot the server changed. At the beginning it was a little data and webserver for developing purposes. Now I want to use it for developing, compiling and as a game server. So more power would be great^^  &#xD;&#xA;The problem is that my strength lies neither in the English language, nor in hardware understanding. So I really hope you guys can help me with the decicion:  &#xD;&#xA;A complete new server, or upgrading this one?  &#xD;&#xA;I guess a new one is the better option because of the hardware age. But then I have no idea, what hardware to buy for a good and solid server. It does not need a DC/DVD-Drive and one SSHD or HDD is enouph (I have an NAS in the network, so for data storage there is enouph space).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Currently it has this components:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus AT5NM10-I ATOM D510 be quiet Pure Power&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: ?&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Mobile Intel Celeron M-A, 1682 MHz (2.5 x 673)&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 2GB (2x1GB no idea what DDR type ... maybe 2?)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: 	Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator 3150 (128 MB)&#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: ?&#xD;&#xA;    case: ?&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I am really sorry, that the report is so bad. But I used two hardware report programs that could not detect all of the hardware components. It seems, that most of them are really old ...  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Can someone maybe help me by finding new parts for a new server? what are good components?  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My imagination:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - dual 2.5GHz or better a quad with at least 2GHz, 8GB RAM, 1TB SSHD, a small case, a quiet power supply, no CD-/DVD-Drive, USB 3.0, one LAN (i think two would be overkill).  &#xD;&#xA; - The server should last five to ten years  &#xD;&#xA; - I am willing to pay the price such a server will cost^^ (maybe arount 1k max, is this realistic?)  &#xD;&#xA; - no downtimes would be great, but unnecessary. The old one had once a hard disc crash, so it was offline, and otherwise when I reebooted it. So there is no need to have a 100% save server. 24/7 with 99% uptime would be nice :)  &#xD;&#xA; - A raid to avoid data loss is necessary in the future (raid 1 would be enough)  &#xD;&#xA; - for the case: Currently the old server has a tower similar to [this][1] with the dimentions 19x21x29[cm] and is standing in an open cabinet. I am open to a new shape or form for the new server. But in the end he takes the place of the old one. So I guess a rack-mounted one would be pointless.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;greetings and thank you in advance,  &#xD;&#xA;Chriss  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;PS.: Sorry for my bad english.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Xpi7m%2BqfL._SL160_.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13226" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4208" RevisionGUID="159a4267-0702-4d46-aca1-069c82d72109" CreationDate="2016-07-16T22:10:32.053" UserId="1801" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="As long as you are happy with 80+ Platinum and the power envelope, there have been no significant improvements in power supply technology over the past few years. A quality PSU is a quality PSU. If it's been sat in a box, it won't have degraded, as it would have under use (PSU calculators use a 10% per year worst case in their analysis, generally you get better than that though).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bottom line with a PSU is how much power it can provide, and how efficiently it provides it. The AX line was top of Corsairs range, just as the AXi line is now. The AXi switches analogue for digital regulation, but all that really adds is the ability to monitor/adjust PSU parameters from software, it doesn't inherently make the PSU more powerful or more efficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest that you only upgrade if:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You need a higher power envelope for your new rig (unlikely if you are going for a recent 14nm CPU / 16nm GPU combination, especially if your original system was spec'd for dual 28nm era GPUs).&#xD;&#xA;* You want the higher power efficiently of 80+ Titanium (unlikely to be economic unless electricity prices are very high where you live).&#xD;&#xA;* You want to tinker with or monitor PSU parameters live as your system is running (doesn't seem like it is worth the expense)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4237" RevisionGUID="3b89a99a-8834-48f1-bd4e-487d4c88d889" CreationDate="2016-07-17T05:53:40.780" UserId="3969" Text="So my four year Samsung computer couldn't run games really well such as those MMORPG games running with 10-20 fps, and well optimized game with around 50 fps. I really started to wanting to buy a better computer specifically for gaming when I didn't even have the minimum requirement of specs to play, Overwatch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a laptop that can run different generes of games for about 60 fps and under hopefully. My budget range for this laptop is around $500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So heres a tl;dr specifications of my gaming laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run most recent, and old games. At 60 fps, or less.&#xD;&#xA;- Laptop, I don't really want desktop because it not portable.&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably last for about 3-4 years until I need a new one to meet the standard requirement for 3-4 years later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly please link to me what you find within my price range, and specifications, thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4237" RevisionGUID="3b89a99a-8834-48f1-bd4e-487d4c88d889" CreationDate="2016-07-17T05:53:40.780" UserId="3969" Text="Need help on finding a good gaming laptop, within my budget range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4237" RevisionGUID="3b89a99a-8834-48f1-bd4e-487d4c88d889" CreationDate="2016-07-17T05:53:40.780" UserId="3969" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4238" RevisionGUID="177a1e18-a2d6-42de-a5fb-494f648cc778" CreationDate="2016-07-17T06:46:53.767" UserId="3836" Text="I'll take a crack at this - please keep in mind I pushed for very high spec within the cost restriction, so if you're more interested in bang for your buck over the short term this might not be the best build. It certainly is designed to give you good performance now and good longevity on all the important bits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/YF4V6X&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/YF4V6X/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2620 V3 2.4GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor  ($389.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler  ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASRock X99M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($183.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($51.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: MyDigitalSSD Super Boot Drive 16GB M.2-2242 Solid State Drive  ($24.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($44.75 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($44.75 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 710 1GB Video Card  ($30.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply  ($109.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Kingwin CF-012LBR 40.0 CFM  120mm Fan  ($3.98 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $943.38&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-17 02:35 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is many, many times more powerful than the server you had. It also uses a lot more power and will generate a lot more heat, although by many standards it is a highly efficient design. The GPU included is fit only to provide a monitor hookup; don't plan on doing any GPU-heavy compute with it. However, the PSU is strong enough to support a midrange GPU addition if needed. Many game servers run headless, so perhaps that is not a big deal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am going to quickly run down my part choices in very short summary format; feel free to ask for more information about any of this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - modern with a good combination of single core performance, efficiency, and multithreaded capability, which is important for compiling and running multiple applications simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard - this motherboard was small and fits in most of the features  a modern server might benefit from - fast PCI-E SSD storage, PCI-E 16x connections, 2x gigabit ethernet, and the like. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM - 16gb dual channel is a sort of de regeur standard for modern multitasking workstations and low-end servers; you can replace with larger sticks if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler - a robust, cheap solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD - small SSD for caching or a unix-based boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDDs - a RAID1 configuration as requested, cheap and a good brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU - fanless, low power, modern.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: unobtrusive, small, good for keeping things clean inside without holes all over it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU - this is a highly efficient, high quality PSU with no moving parts; this should provide extra longevity and excellent power savings, particularly at idle. Its ability to run without a fan is the primary reason I chose this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="bb27a0d3-d1c8-41f3-a732-a7fe5a5d0dd0" CreationDate="2016-07-17T17:55:55.543" UserId="476" Comment="Fixed typo .-." Text="Introduction&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a graphics card (GPU) with a performance ~2x better than my current GPU, a Radeon HD 7850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price &lt; $120 (If it costs more and I can get it used for this price that's fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Performance at least 2x better than the HD 7850&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with windows&#xD;&#xA; - nVidia **preferable**, but anything more than a miniscule performance downgrade and I'll take AMD&#xD;&#xA; - I can wait a few months if something is coming out&#xD;&#xA; - I'd prefer not to do SLI/CrossFireX, but if the peformance benefit is substantial, I'll consider doing it with two cheap cards.&#xD;&#xA; - TDP &lt;= 300W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Information&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I play games such as Team Fortress 2, Trackmania 2, Trackmania United, Minecraft, SimCity 4, Hearthstone, Heroes of the Storm, and World of Warcraft.&#xD;&#xA; - I also do Blender rendering, however this supports OpenCL and CUDA now so AMD is not a concern&#xD;&#xA; - I have done my research and know about cards such as the GTX 960, GTX 770, R9 280X, R9 280, HD 7970, etc. I just want to know if there's something I've missed.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I would prefer if you provided benchmarks, links and maybe the occasional picture to back up your answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4231" RevisionGUID="2a39d382-627c-45fe-b918-c78da4425955" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:39:24.467" UserId="241" Comment="added 520 characters in body" Text="There's nothing that meets both your price requirement and your performance requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price-wise, the traditional budget GPU is the 750 Ti at around $90-$100, but it's slightly *less* powerful than your current card; $120 gets you a factory-overclocked 750 Ti that just about matches your card for performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance-wise, three times your current performance is the GTX 980, at a price of around $400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At twice your current performance, there's still nothing within your budget: the options are the GTX 970 (twice the specs) for $275, or the GTX 770 (twice the raw number-crunching ability, but only moderate gains in pixel-pushing) for $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Tom's Hardware GPU Hierarchy][1] illustrates the problem you're running into: you're looking for something three to four tiers above your current card, and you're already near the top of the chart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4244" RevisionGUID="3674400f-b8df-4f07-9baf-dea55cf69cab" CreationDate="2016-07-18T02:01:34.330" UserId="3978" Text="I'm looking for a laptop to do application development with (Java, C, Virtual Machines ect), but I'd rather not be throwing money at a big graphics card too. I have narrowed down some of my specs to the following but I haven't come to any decisions, and was hoping you could lend some help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i7 Processor&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- Good bus architecture&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 512GB&gt; HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Decent battery life&#xD;&#xA;- Very solid build&#xD;&#xA;- External display support&#xD;&#xA;- Not a tiny laptop&#xD;&#xA;- Windows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- High-end graphics card&#xD;&#xA;- Weight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget isn't a huge problem, but hoping £800-£1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4244" RevisionGUID="3674400f-b8df-4f07-9baf-dea55cf69cab" CreationDate="2016-07-18T02:01:34.330" UserId="3978" Text="Looking for an application development laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4244" RevisionGUID="3674400f-b8df-4f07-9baf-dea55cf69cab" CreationDate="2016-07-18T02:01:34.330" UserId="3978" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="ef434a40-4b8e-42f6-b862-4a99eae5fe11" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:28:25.630" UserId="3981" Text="I am trying to create a NAS but I want to run my own software on it. I want to be able to download data around 20MB/s over wifi from the system. I used a raspi and created a prototype, but as it uses a single bus, it is not able to transfer data from the hdd to the user at the rates i am talking about. Any body know any build that suits me? Need ur suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="ef434a40-4b8e-42f6-b862-4a99eae5fe11" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:28:25.630" UserId="3981" Text="MediaCenter with through put of 20MB/s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="ef434a40-4b8e-42f6-b862-4a99eae5fe11" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:28:25.630" UserId="3981" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4246" RevisionGUID="7098e854-3d16-4882-9128-38353a68be31" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:37:29.267" UserId="3836" Text="Pick up a refurb [Dell Precision M4700][1] and add a [1Tb drive][2] via [DVD adapter][3]. This satisfies all of your bizarre non-laptop-esque requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you could, you know, get all of this in the much more sensible desktop form factor, have it be twice as powerful, cost less, and be more upgradeable. But hey, that's just me thinking crazy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA77G4145052&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.outletpc.com/ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive.html?utm_source=ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Toshiba%2B-%2BHard%20Drives%20%26%20SSD%20%3E%202%2E5%22%20SATA%20Hard%20Drives&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/SATA-caddy-12-7mm-Universal-DVD-ROM/dp/B0056EW4A4/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41BGODPKJRL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QTR27BVZ3FHYS8GFHQDN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="0a15881a-82a4-42d9-b149-21ecc7424eff" CreationDate="2016-07-18T15:47:31.917" UserId="3981" Comment="added 627 characters in body" Text="I am trying to create a NAS but I want to run my own software on it. I want to be able to download data around 20MB/s over wifi from the system. I used a raspi and created a prototype, but as it uses a single bus, it is not able to transfer data from the hdd to the user at the rates i am talking about. Any body know any build that suits me? Need ur suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Budget   -- around USD 300 - 400&#xD;&#xA;2. Size requirements -- as small as possible&#xD;&#xA;3. Operating conditions -- Will be deployed in my van, take jolts into consideration, i am planning to device a case that can solve this issue. Heating solution as my van is not air conditioned. &#xD;&#xA;3. Desired software you want to run on it -- web server running on nodejs&#xD;&#xA;4. What storage media will you be using -- 2TB harddisk (as of now i use a 1TB external)&#xD;&#xA;5. Power solution -- need a powerbackup that can last for one hour&#xD;&#xA;6. I need good network adapters and usb ports that wont hinder my data streaming. &#xD;&#xA;6. I dont need a screen.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4249" RevisionGUID="1a3e9c00-7d38-4eb2-8dcf-3a6c584eff32" CreationDate="2016-07-18T22:05:14.880" UserId="3836" Text="I personally have yet to find a better component for this job than the [Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Native linux support at least in debian/ubuntu&#xD;&#xA; - AC/N/G support&#xD;&#xA; - PCI-E 2.0 1x (probably the single best balance between performance and compatibility of any interface type)&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance reviews&#xD;&#xA; - Half-height compatible&#xD;&#xA; - Fully modular - antennae and chip can be refitted&#xD;&#xA; - Extra bells and whistles like bluethooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.outletpc.com/jw4213-gigabyte-bluetooth-wifi-pcie-adapter.html?utm_source=jw4213-gigabyte-bluetooth-wifi-pcie-adapter&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Gigabyte%2B-%2BNetworking%20%3E%20Network%20Cards%20-%20Wireless%20%28PCI-Express%29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="bee34406-9a5c-4ecd-b7e6-175727cf28d7" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:42:35.450" UserId="84" Comment="Fixed typos" Text="I am trying to create a NAS but I want to run my own software on it. I want to be able to download data around 20MB/s over WiFi from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used a raspi and created a prototype, but as it uses a single bus it is not able to transfer data from the HDD to the user at the rates I am talking about. Anybody know any build that suits this? Looking for suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Budget &amp;ndash; around USD 300 - 400&#xD;&#xA;2. Size requirements &amp;ndash; as small as possible&#xD;&#xA;3. Operating conditions &amp;ndash; Will be deployed in my van: take impacts into consideration, I am planning to devise a case that can solve this issue.  Needs heat dissipation solution as my van is not air conditioned. &#xD;&#xA;3. Desired software you want to run on it &amp;ndash; web server running on Node.JS&#xD;&#xA;4. Storage media &amp;ndash; 2TB HDD (as of now I use a 1TB external)&#xD;&#xA;5. Power solution &amp;ndash; need a powerbackup that can last for one hour&#xD;&#xA;6. I need good network adapters and USB ports that won't hinder my data streaming. &#xD;&#xA;6. I don't need a screen.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13275" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="bee34406-9a5c-4ecd-b7e6-175727cf28d7" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:42:35.450" Comment="Proposed by 84 approved by 476, 912 edit id of 479" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4250" RevisionGUID="14e90099-bc69-40ea-9343-1f3f86456303" CreationDate="2016-07-19T01:53:15.543" UserId="415" Text="I am looking for a graphics card that can run Starcraft II at 1080p and 60 fps. I know that it isn't a super graphics heavy game and am ideally looking for something under $100. I would like something that has linux support as well but most major graphics card manufacturers have that. &#xA;&#xA;I haven't decided what CPU I am going to buy yet but I am planing to buy a pretty powerful one so it shouldn't be a problem.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13277" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4250" RevisionGUID="14e90099-bc69-40ea-9343-1f3f86456303" CreationDate="2016-07-19T01:53:15.543" UserId="415" Text="Cheapest graphics card for starcraft" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13278" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4250" RevisionGUID="14e90099-bc69-40ea-9343-1f3f86456303" CreationDate="2016-07-19T01:53:15.543" UserId="415" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4251" RevisionGUID="65c68014-efcb-4e65-8472-926d6460906a" CreationDate="2016-07-19T04:45:55.653" UserId="3836" Text="If you have not already purchased anything, it is entirely possible for an APU to provide you with the processing AND graphics power you need to run the game well. Given that StarCraft II is not highly threaded, but that unfortunately Intel refuses to put any worthy GPU on anything below an i5, I recommend something like the A10-7890K, which at ~150 represents a $75 CPU combined with a $75 GPU and pretty much performs like it, too. Just be sure to pair it with 2133 or 2400mhz RAM.&#xA;&#xA;Alternatively, get whatever CPU you want and pair it with a GPU like the R7 250X or GTX 750; either one is powerful enough for SCII in spades." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3969" RevisionGUID="11c3f08a-d470-4faf-af5a-36b577caa085" CreationDate="2016-07-19T18:35:43.787" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4246" RevisionGUID="c8c83de0-74c1-4205-bb0a-1c994cd7cc21" CreationDate="2016-07-19T18:44:32.797" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 18 characters in body" Text="Pick up a refurb [Dell Precision M4700][1] and add a [1Tb drive][2] via [DVD adapter][3]. This satisfies all of your (non-laptop-esque) requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be worth your while getting all of this in the much more sensible desktop form factor, which would let you have it be twice as powerful, cost less, and be more upgradeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA77G4145052&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.outletpc.com/ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive.html?utm_source=ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Toshiba%2B-%2BHard%20Drives%20%26%20SSD%20%3E%202%2E5%22%20SATA%20Hard%20Drives&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/SATA-caddy-12-7mm-Universal-DVD-ROM/dp/B0056EW4A4/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41BGODPKJRL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QTR27BVZ3FHYS8GFHQDN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="4246" RevisionGUID="e93d07dc-29ae-4c07-962e-856a755a8199" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:01:26.240" UserId="3836" Comment="Rollback to [7098e854-3d16-4882-9128-38353a68be31]" Text="Pick up a refurb [Dell Precision M4700][1] and add a [1Tb drive][2] via [DVD adapter][3]. This satisfies all of your bizarre non-laptop-esque requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you could, you know, get all of this in the much more sensible desktop form factor, have it be twice as powerful, cost less, and be more upgradeable. But hey, that's just me thinking crazy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA77G4145052&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.outletpc.com/ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive.html?utm_source=ts7668-mq01abd100-toshiba-1tb-25-sata-ii-hard-drive&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Toshiba%2B-%2BHard%20Drives%20%26%20SSD%20%3E%202%2E5%22%20SATA%20Hard%20Drives&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/SATA-caddy-12-7mm-Universal-DVD-ROM/dp/B0056EW4A4/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41BGODPKJRL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QTR27BVZ3FHYS8GFHQDN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3962" RevisionGUID="29020eb0-cc2f-4deb-b58b-4e3811b17949" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:39:39.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4255" RevisionGUID="d83a718f-a489-467f-b06e-536bcf1d28ce" CreationDate="2016-07-20T00:49:58.373" UserId="476" Text="A quick search on Dell's website surfaced with this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[New Inspiron 13 5000 Series 2-in-1][1]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price: €689&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5-6200U&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - Screen: 13.3 inch 1080p IPS touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi: Dual Band AC&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth: Bluetooth 4.0&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: Micro SD card reader, 3 USB (2 of which are 3.0), audio jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a **256GB SSD** and it's called &quot;two in one&quot; because it has a 360° hinge on the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/ie/business/p/inspiron-13-5368-2-in-1-laptop/pd?oc=bn53602&amp;model_id=inspiron-13-5368-2-in-1-laptop&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4258" RevisionGUID="3ad3b1da-bf82-41b9-9ae1-5ffecea6d5ca" CreationDate="2016-07-20T07:26:17.897" UserId="3709" Text="A few years ago I took the cheapest machine I could find (300 Euros with no OS), put Ubuntu on it and am quite content. Use it as a development web server and when I´m abroad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; Asus K53U: 2 GB RAM, AMD C-50 dual core CPU at 1 GHz, DVD writer, VGA and HDMI, camera, 3xUSB, card reader, Ethernet, WLAN and a Kensingtom Lock. Swapped the hard drive with an SSD some day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doesn´t really fly, but it´s sufficient for Open Office, DVDs and video streaming, a good deal of browser windows (I´m avoiding Firefox though) and a LLMP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;There are better machines nowadays for the same price. I would probably get a Lenovo B50 today, if I needed a new machine ... or do the same I did three years ago:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Look around my current location for the cheapeast machine I can find, and see if it meets the needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4260" RevisionGUID="b94ba2c9-bdd6-4974-baea-dc5acb619c5f" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:15:15.853" UserId="786" Text="I'm going to buy this motherboard: **[Supermicro X10SLH-F][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;The **[motherboard manual][2]** says (at page 20) &quot;Also your power supply must supply 1.5A for the Ethernet ports&quot; so a normal ATX power supply isn't enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What ATX/MicroATX PSU would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't buy from Newegg (it doesn't ship to Italy) and i prefer something available on Amazon (.it or .co.uk, not .com). &#xD;&#xA;The entire setup will require about 140 Watt and it should be as silent as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/xeon/c220/x10slh-f.cfm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/C222/MNL-1464.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4260" RevisionGUID="b94ba2c9-bdd6-4974-baea-dc5acb619c5f" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:15:15.853" UserId="786" Text="PSU under 100€ an entry level server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13320" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4260" RevisionGUID="b94ba2c9-bdd6-4974-baea-dc5acb619c5f" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:15:15.853" UserId="786" Text="&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4260" RevisionGUID="4f42f885-9ff4-422f-ad65-ee58389e9a56" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:27:48.833" UserId="786" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy this motherboard: **[Supermicro X10SLH-F][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;The **[motherboard manual][2]** says (at page 20) &quot;Also your power supply must supply 1.5A for the Ethernet ports&quot;. Is a normal ATX power supply enough?.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What ATX/MicroATX PSU would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't buy from Newegg (it doesn't ship to Italy) and i prefer something available on Amazon (.it or .co.uk, not .com). &#xD;&#xA;The entire setup will require about 140 Watt and it should be as silent as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:** I mailed to SuperMicro and they said they only support their chassis and power supplies. But their power supplies &quot;seems&quot; normal power supplies (same cables and same voltages).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/xeon/c220/x10slh-f.cfm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/C222/MNL-1464.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="459fbe81-6821-4978-9425-760a370efd4a" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:32:31.377" UserId="3993" Text="Currently my employer is looking at setting up a video tower display for a trade-show. We are planning on having 4 displays stacked but separated running the same video and only showing 25% of the video in each display starting from the top and working down. The video will be a 30-45 second loop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: What are the hardware requirements for the PC (video card, processor, hard-drive, memory...etc) that will be running the content to the 4 displays? I am trying to keep this purchase under $2,000. I would prefer to buy something that is already configured to do what I need. Any insight is greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="459fbe81-6821-4978-9425-760a370efd4a" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:32:31.377" UserId="3993" Text="PC Shopping for Video Display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="459fbe81-6821-4978-9425-760a370efd4a" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:32:31.377" UserId="3993" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4262" RevisionGUID="0764f462-7340-404b-8192-549a6c01eb46" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:53:50.977" UserId="3836" Text="I suggest the [Super Flower Golden Silent PSU][1], available on Amazon.it. It is quite literally silent because it has no fan. Important specifications follow:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 0dbm&#xD;&#xA; - 80+ Gold efficiency rating&#xD;&#xA; - 430W capacity&#xD;&#xA; - Part number: SF-430P14FG&#xD;&#xA; - Has the 4+4 and 20+4 power connectors needed for this motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.it/Super-Flower-Golden-Fanless-Netzteil/dp/B00H5DAEOW/254-5840332-7707302?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=pcp06-21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4263" RevisionGUID="66e25a4b-964b-4ae8-add8-d6dd57344f64" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:04:00.257" UserId="3992" Text="I'm currently searching for a smaller and simpler Highdpi TV-Solution for my console and microconsole devices. The general idea is that I want a monitor with the display quality (and maybe mobility?) of a modern tablet to connect current-gen and last-gen consoles to it (PS3, PS4, Shield Console etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements would be as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Resolution of min. 720p, better yet 1080p&#xD;&#xA;- Monitor should be between 9&quot; and 12&quot;, the absolute maximum would be 13&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- Panel refresh at min. 50hz, supported by the connection&#xD;&#xA;- IPS or similar quality panel&#xD;&#xA;- Direct HDMI-Input, no streaming, no 30hz-converters, none of my video sources have USB-C or Thunderbolt, nor will they likely gain that in the future&#xD;&#xA;- Has a case or case purchasable/creatable for the panel, no naked panel&#xD;&#xA;- Should not be exclusive to one console like the panels that mount on top of the PS4&#xD;&#xA;- Price point is around 300€ in my mind, although I will take a look at more expensive solutions if they have advantages&#xD;&#xA;- Good quality, please no Alibaba-links&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already looked around but mostly found industry strength displays for embedded factories or USB-Solutions with their own graphic cards included. I would totally be open to just buying a good tablet with HDMI-In as a display mode, although I have never heard of one having that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for all your help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4263" RevisionGUID="66e25a4b-964b-4ae8-add8-d6dd57344f64" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:04:00.257" UserId="3992" Text="Tablet-like 12&quot; Monitor with HDMI-In for Consoles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4263" RevisionGUID="66e25a4b-964b-4ae8-add8-d6dd57344f64" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:04:00.257" UserId="3992" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="b02136d6-60bb-413a-a0e9-a532604a4f03" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:29:28.623" UserId="3836" Text="I thought there wasn't such a thing, but [there is][1]: GeChic 2501H 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Portable Monitor with HDMI, VGA Inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record, this was solved in a single search on Amazon with the search term &quot;portable monitors,&quot; so I have not done the leg work of refining the cheapest or best possible solution. Certainly this one is quite expensive, but at least the reviews for it are good. If I needed what you needed, I'd probably buy it (well really, I'd probably make my own by getting a DC-powered LCD display with HDMI in and stripping it out of its case, then wrapping it in a disgusting amount of electrical tape, because screw aesthetics, but that's me).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469028328&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=portable%20monitor%20HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="5c314b21-6ab8-4ded-8c0e-aefba7637c55" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:34:06.333" UserId="3836" Comment="Improved accuracy of title." Text="Need a PC that can Drive 4 Simultaneous Discrete Video Display Outputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="5c314b21-6ab8-4ded-8c0e-aefba7637c55" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:34:06.333" Comment="Proposed by 3836 approved by 60, 912 edit id of 482" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="25ebea50-8c84-4998-8716-fcac78470222" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:46:21.680" UserId="3981" Comment="34" />
  <row Id="13336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4265" RevisionGUID="53dff4c5-7fbd-44b5-8dd0-e184f7ce38b6" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:56:55.777" UserId="543" Text="I currently have a PC with the following hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU - Intel 6600K.&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Asus Maximums VIII Ranger.&#xD;&#xA;- Case: Noctis 450.&#xD;&#xA;- Also, monitor: Dell U2414H, 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using integrated graphics but later plan on buying a descrete graphics card. I watch HD movies,  which currently is not smooth at all, mainly program in Android Studio and do some video editing in Sony Vegas Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can any recommend a graphics card no more than £200? Thanks  in advance.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4265" RevisionGUID="53dff4c5-7fbd-44b5-8dd0-e184f7ce38b6" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:56:55.777" UserId="543" Text="Graphics card help for my current desktop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4265" RevisionGUID="53dff4c5-7fbd-44b5-8dd0-e184f7ce38b6" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:56:55.777" UserId="543" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4268" RevisionGUID="e04829e2-f2a3-48a7-a938-d2eabbf747b5" CreationDate="2016-07-20T16:45:45.527" UserId="3995" Text="Would highly recommend and AMD RX 480 - 4GB model. That is less than 200 Euros i believe. If you save a big more you could get the 8GB model, given if you are just watching HD movies and rendering videos than the 4GB model should be perfect for you use cases!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus, Sony Vegas does get Accelerated Graphics support from AMD Graphics Cards, so you will be able to render video faster!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4270" RevisionGUID="1cabc189-fe15-4748-a1dd-ad88d3d5c7e2" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:38:03.873" UserId="3836" Text="The fastest solution is a desktop with integrated+dedicated graphics that both support 2+ 1080p monitors, [like this][1]. That's around $440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other solution is to build your own, of course! A machine capable of doing what you want would look something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYDtgL&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYDtgL/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor  ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASRock AM1B-ITX Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard  ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: PNY Anarchy 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($14.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 80GB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($15.95 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: XFX Radeon R5 220 1GB Core Edition Video Card  ($25.99 @ Best Buy) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: HEC Vigilance400 MicroATX Mini Tower Case w/400W Power Supply  ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $168.90&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-20 16:37 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whether the ~120% savings is worth it to you is a matter of finance and ability, I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883285140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="e336add3-57df-47d5-a022-d27dbed12af4" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:41:03.073" UserId="3836" Comment="Integrated helpful comment from OP." Text="Currently my employer is looking at setting up a video tower display for a trade-show. We are planning on having 4 displays stacked but separated running the same video and only showing 25% of the video in each display starting from the top and working down. The video will be a 30-45 second loop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: What are the hardware requirements for the PC (video card, processor, hard-drive, memory...etc) that will be running the content to the 4 displays? I am trying to keep this purchase under $2,000. I would prefer to buy something that is already configured to do what I need. Any insight is greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a pre-built system. The video will be 1920 x 1080. The displays are 46&quot; 1080p. The video will be produced in After Effects and will most likely be an mp4 file. Most likely running it with VLC. Hope this answers your questions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="e336add3-57df-47d5-a022-d27dbed12af4" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:41:03.073" Comment="Proposed by 3836 approved by 8 edit id of 484" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="4ce7e600-303f-4285-9089-a8f792ea8cf3" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:59:28.170" UserId="3997" Text="I'm looking to replace a backup drive that died. I was considering a Seagate Barracuda drive (ST2000DM001) which is listed as 7200 RPM. Amazon reports a newer version of the drive (ST2000DM006), which is about the same price, but it doesn't list the RPM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the spec sheet on the drive, and it doesn't have this information either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this newer version of the drive recommended? Does anybody know what the differences are here? Why aren't they reporting the RPM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13364" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="4ce7e600-303f-4285-9089-a8f792ea8cf3" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:59:28.170" UserId="3997" Text="Seagate Hard Drive RPM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="4ce7e600-303f-4285-9089-a8f792ea8cf3" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:59:28.170" UserId="3997" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="cbc7c093-aa95-4ece-8b65-ffd9e9a33b9b" CreationDate="2016-07-20T23:05:07.873" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="d3f60c1d-9e12-401e-aaf4-e735b85e6ee6" CreationDate="2016-07-20T23:58:45.027" UserId="3997" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to replace a backup drive that died. I was considering a Seagate Barracuda drive (ST2000DM001) which is listed as 7200 RPM. Amazon reports a newer version of the drive (ST2000DM006), which is about the same price, but it doesn't list the RPM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the spec sheet on the drive, and it doesn't have this information either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this newer version of the drive recommended? Does anybody know what the differences are here? Why aren't they reporting the RPM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm asking whether I should purchase the newer version of the drive or the older one. Does anyone know if there will be a performance difference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="cb1939a8-89bd-44cd-bd01-f629f70c6f3f" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:04:59.543" UserId="3902" Text="I have a HTPC inside a small chassis: Silverstone ML3 (http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=283&amp;area=en).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a Core i3 2125 on a ASrock motherboard, 4GB DDR3, 2 RAID1 WD caviar Green. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot remember any further details but it's not important because the only problem is that the Core i3's HD3000 IGP resolution up only to 1080p (even the motherboard HDMI output cannot go further).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a new UHD TV and thus, I'm looking for a PCI-E graphic card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - That can fit inside the slim chassis (that is 105mm high, but a bit less because of the motherboard).&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive (or at least that remains as silent as possible)&#xD;&#xA; - That support UHD output (3840x2160)&#xD;&#xA; - Stays as cheap as possible: the only use will be playing UHD movies, **no games**.&#xD;&#xA; - Still, is easy in hardware x265 decoding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="cb1939a8-89bd-44cd-bd01-f629f70c6f3f" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:04:59.543" UserId="3902" Text="UHD compatible Graphic Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="cb1939a8-89bd-44cd-bd01-f629f70c6f3f" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:04:59.543" UserId="3902" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="81dd2ad0-c297-4afa-bb21-0c00f36f8c1f" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:35:54.893" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="I have a HTPC inside a small chassis: Silverstone ML3 (http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=283&amp;area=en).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a Core i3 2125 on a ASrock motherboard, 4GB DDR3, 2 RAID1 WD caviar Green. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot remember any further details but it's not important because the only problem is that the Core i3's HD3000 IGP resolution up only to 1080p (even the motherboard HDMI output cannot go further).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a new UHD TV and thus, I'm looking for a PCI-E graphic card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - That can fit inside the slim chassis (that is 105mm high, but a bit less because of the motherboard).&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive (or at least that remains as silent as possible)&#xD;&#xA; - That support UHD output (3840x2160)&#xD;&#xA; - Stays as cheap as possible: the only use will be playing UHD movies, **no games**.&#xD;&#xA; - Still, is easy in hardware x265 decoding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4276" RevisionGUID="d0ad8130-9bbe-43e0-a4bc-05e55cd667b1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T13:24:37.393" UserId="3863" Text="[I'd recommend the GeForce GT 710][1], a fairly new card aimed at HTPCs as a replacement to integrated graphics. It supports up to 4096x2160 resolution, has a very low profile, and is plenty fast for any video viewing or streaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The particular model I linked not passive, but should be more than silent enough, especially over the sound anything you're watching. However, there is a [dual slot passive version][1] as well if your case can support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am very lacking in my understanding of hardware decoding, however, so you might want to verify its capable of x265 decoding, but [this page][2] seems to indicate it can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-64bit-Single-Profile-01G-P3-2711-KR/dp/B01AZ8EJQ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469107041&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=EVGA%20GT%20710&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://wiki.avblocks.com/wiki/about-avblocks/about-hardware-acceleration/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4277" RevisionGUID="9a304356-3828-492e-a142-b7dc9c18e0dd" CreationDate="2016-07-21T13:49:36.277" UserId="3995" Text="Id Recommend an AMD RX 480 4GB GPU. It is around $200 and it supports 4k movies&#xD;&#xA;It is a small, i dont know the height unfortunately. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="8ffe9333-fc3e-4182-bd04-6425867c7ddb" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:07:18.980" UserId="3981" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="I am trying to create a NAS but I want to run my own software on it. I want to be able to download data around 20MB/s over WiFi from the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used a raspi and created a prototype, but as it uses a single bus it is not able to transfer data from the HDD to the user at the rates I am talking about. Anybody know any build that suits this? Looking for suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Budget &amp;ndash; around USD 300 - 400&#xD;&#xA;2. Size requirements &amp;ndash; as small as possible&#xD;&#xA;3. Operating conditions &amp;ndash; Will be deployed in my van: take impacts into consideration, I am planning to devise a case that can solve this issue.  Needs heat dissipation solution as my van is not air conditioned. &#xD;&#xA;3. Desired software you want to run on it &amp;ndash; web server running on Node.JS&#xD;&#xA;4. Storage media &amp;ndash; 2TB HDD (as of now I use a 1TB external)&#xD;&#xA;5. Power solution &amp;ndash; need a powerbackup that can last for one hour&#xD;&#xA;6. I need good network adapters and USB ports that won't hinder my data streaming. &#xD;&#xA;7. Dust proof as I am installing this in India where dust and temperature are a common phenomena&#xD;&#xA;6. I don't need a screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the case to be smaller in size, I am willing to fabricate one myself if its needed to address my needs. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4280" RevisionGUID="ca3500d7-d338-4ff1-92a8-33017f05862e" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:12:54.343" UserId="3836" Text="OK, third attempt is the charm, right? This gets you what you want in what has to be, bar none, the smallest possible package. But it will require some know-how on your end as far as software goes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/CHG7WX&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/CHG7WX/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Thermaltake A1888 47.3 CFM  80mm Fan  ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    External Storage: Western Digital Elements 2TB External Hard Drive  ($83.86 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    UPS: APC BE450G-CN UPS  ($39.78 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Other: Linksys AC1900 Dual Band SMART Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (EA6900) ($99.99)&#xD;&#xA;    Total: $236.62&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-21 12:57 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how this setup works:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The Router acts as the wireless server, running OpenWRT or dd-WRT.&#xD;&#xA;2. The External HDD connects to the router's 3.0 port&#xD;&#xA;3. The fan connects to the router's 2.0 port and is set to cool the router - you may want to drill holes in the router's shell to facilitate this.&#xD;&#xA;4. The UPS powers the whole setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the trick - how to get node.js running on a router? I think I have the answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Install OpenWRT or dd-WRT on the router, whichever works for you. This model supports both options.&#xD;&#xA;2. On a desktop computer - preferably a very powerful linux workstation - you [crosscompile node.js for ARMv7][1] (the chip powering this router is specifically noted [here][2]).&#xD;&#xA;3. Copy the resulting script file over to your router's flash storage area - you have ~100mb NAND flash to work with.&#xD;&#xA;4. Install [tmux][3] or [screen][4]. &#xD;&#xA;5. Run the script inside a detached tmux or screen session on the router.&#xD;&#xA;6. Configure router as needed to make server visible to connecting parties.&#xD;&#xA;7. Don't go over ~400mb RAM usage, your router only has 512mb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gist.github.com/Gioyik/7895192&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/linksys/wrt1x00ac_series&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://tmux.github.io/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gnu.org/software/screen/manual/screen.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="713dc89c-2ba5-4df0-a04b-8a0bd005547b" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:34:37.100" UserId="3997" Comment="added 187 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to replace a backup drive that died. I was considering a Seagate Barracuda drive (ST2000DM001) which is listed as 7200 RPM. Amazon reports a newer version of the drive (ST2000DM006), which is about the same price, but it doesn't list the RPM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked up the spec sheet on the drive, and it doesn't have this information either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this newer version of the drive recommended? Does anybody know what the differences are here? Why aren't they reporting the RPM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm asking whether I should purchase the newer version of the drive or the older one. Does anyone know if there will be a performance difference?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clarification: I'm looking for a faster and more reliable drive since I will be often be transferring large amounts of data when backing up, and I need my backup drive to be reliable. Other drive recommendations are also welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3991" RevisionGUID="c48db0d1-8cfd-40ab-b50e-2d3b75d00ccf" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:36:45.953" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13399" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="31720960-6f54-427a-b580-f5bf6d29278a" CreationDate="2016-07-22T05:48:08.913" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="5ca29f02-b294-4a22-9c27-c17dd103e215" CreationDate="2016-07-22T08:06:16.983" UserId="3902" Comment="add precisions and some kind of conclusion since it looks like no released GPU can suit my requirements" Text="I have a HTPC inside a small chassis: Silverstone ML3 (http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=283&amp;area=en).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a Core i3 2125 on a ASrock motherboard, 4GB DDR3, 2 RAID1 WD caviar Green. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot remember any further details but it's not important because the only problem is that the Core i3's HD3000 IGP resolution up only to 1080p (even the motherboard HDMI output cannot go further).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a new UHD TV and thus, I'm looking for a PCI-E graphic card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - That can fit inside the slim chassis (that is 105mm high, but a bit less because of the motherboard).&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive (or at least that remains as silent as possible)&#xD;&#xA; - That support UHD output (3840x2160)&#xD;&#xA; - Stays as cheap as possible: the only use will be playing UHD movies, **no games**.&#xD;&#xA; - Still, is easy in hardware x265 decoding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the first answer, I'd like to precise that a gaming GPU is kind of overkill for the final use (expensive, fan, a lot of power for &quot;nothing&quot; etc.).&#xD;&#xA;I did my own researches and found that nvidia's GPU (don't know for AMD) have HDMI 2.0 (required for UHD) starting from GTX950 wich excludes anything cheaper. The GT710 (even GT730) solution only has a 1.4a HDMI output and it seems that in order to lead to a UHD resolution through 1.4a, nvidia is processing some kind of colour compression which is ... urghhh, not what I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally it seems that I'll have to wait a bit before finding my dream GPU, maybe with the new Pascal architecture ? Since nvidia hasn't released the low-end new GPUs...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="b17657c4-5840-4b67-a5c5-b9a2af1a39fd" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:12:58.457" UserId="2086" Text="1. Can use twitch&#xD;&#xA;2. Can record screen and gameplay using windows-G option.&#xD;&#xA;3. Can play overwatch at full screen with maxed graphic&#xD;&#xA;4. Cheap. Under $100. Or around&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="b17657c4-5840-4b67-a5c5-b9a2af1a39fd" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:12:58.457" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me a good video card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13405" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="b17657c4-5840-4b67-a5c5-b9a2af1a39fd" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:12:58.457" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4283" RevisionGUID="0fcc5ce7-abf2-4318-a595-41ddb61f060b" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:24:03.850" UserId="3902" Text="According to this site: http://www.techspot.com/review/1180-overwatch-benchmarks/page2.html, the best deal (good performances / low price) for your planned use would be the GTX660ti (https://www.amazon.fr/Asus-GTX660TI-DC2O-2GD5-graphique-Geforce-PCI-Express/dp/B009KZ4DK4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This GPU runs Overwatch, ultra settings, 1080p (I assume that its your resolution) at ~80fps and is around 100€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, becarful, you didn't say your current configuration (especially CPU): for a twitch/live record of your screen, I'd say that CPU is as much important as GPU. Besides, the 80fps performance had been get using a i7 6700k wich is quite de best CPU you can get for gaming, for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So you should tell us more about your config in an edit and I'll be able to edit this answer accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4284" RevisionGUID="21851376-1266-4084-8147-1f0c54869952" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:41:14.913" UserId="4009" Text="I'm currently running on a core i5-4460 CPU @ 3.20GHz on a 1150 LGA socket (Haswell). I need to upgrade to an i7 but I'm unsure on what one to go for, it needs to be faster for compiling code (using the machine for software development) -  I'm aware a lot is handled by the SSD, thus I'll be installing 2 in raid 0, but the user has specifically requested an i7. Budget of between £200 and £350. Also, suggestions of trusted supplier would be appreciated (I'm in the UK)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4284" RevisionGUID="21851376-1266-4084-8147-1f0c54869952" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:41:14.913" UserId="4009" Text="what i should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4284" RevisionGUID="21851376-1266-4084-8147-1f0c54869952" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:41:14.913" UserId="4009" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13416" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4273" RevisionGUID="2b2bf856-ae17-42db-93aa-009e1220f5e2" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:26:56.927" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13418" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="5f0cc302-f3ab-4cad-98c1-006b108c840f" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:30:53.667" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4286" RevisionGUID="23bc9b76-dfa7-4f33-ae99-10e059682157" CreationDate="2016-07-22T14:06:54.247" UserId="3836" Text="I'm sorry I don't have a source on this as it's more of a result of long experience in the industry than anything else I can really point to, documentation-wise (so if someone else comes along with a document-supported answer, obviously upvote that answer, not this one), but I am 100% confident that both drives are running at 7200rpm. The difference in model number probably only denotes a difference in OEM part supplier change, likely in the controller chip or PCB, as these are things which are swapped out all the time and not necessarily made in-house at Seagate. For what it's worth, here are the data sheets for [ST2000DM001][1] and [ST2000DM006][2]. Controller identification is not provided, but performance data is. They are both 7200rpm drives, they are both listed as providing the same reads, writes, warranty, etc. Given that all else appears the same, I advise you to choose the cheaper of the two drives. If they are the same price, choose the newer ST2000DM006 since support for it might be longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/desktop-hdd-8tbDS1770-9-1603US-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4287" RevisionGUID="de99f782-1109-4571-96be-38684d86b2d6" CreationDate="2016-07-22T15:43:31.480" UserId="3836" Text="Given that compiling is a thread-heavy job, your user is best off with the i7 that most cheaply gets them the most threads. Given that all i7 CPUs on the 1150 socket feature 8 threads, that means simply getting them the cheapest i7 you can put in that socket, which would likely be the Intel Core i7-4770S or Intel Core i7-4790.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, Xeon processors are extremely similar to i7 CPUs and fit on this socket. In addition, they support ECC RAM, which is a feature many compiling rigs benefit from due to the high memory usage and long compile times they can undergo. In addition, some Xeons, like the Intel Xeon E3-1275 V3, currently offer higher performance and lower cost than either of those i7s previously mentioned, and would thus be a better fit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon.co.uk had the lowest prices I could find on these processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4287" RevisionGUID="7b344c78-c782-4873-bd79-d5ff139376ce" CreationDate="2016-07-22T15:50:24.163" UserId="3836" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Given that compiling is a thread-heavy job, your user is best off with the i7 that most cheaply gets them the most threads. Given that all i7 CPUs on the 1150 socket feature 8 threads, that means simply getting them the cheapest i7 you can put in that socket, which would likely be the Intel Core i7-4770S or Intel Core i7-4790.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, Xeon processors are extremely similar to i7 CPUs and fit on this socket. In addition, they support ECC RAM, which is a feature many compiling rigs benefit from due to the high memory usage and long compile times they can undergo. In addition, some Xeons, like the Intel Xeon E3-1275 V3, currently offer higher performance and lower cost than some of those i7s previously mentioned, and would thus be a better fit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon.co.uk had the lowest prices I could find on these processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13426" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4284" RevisionGUID="30c71c17-ccfa-4dbf-80bd-a5dacb9dbffe" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:04:12.803" UserId="1" Comment="edited title" Text="Which i7 processor should I buy for compiling code?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4289" RevisionGUID="a1289220-6155-4582-82e2-ad468f4e08c6" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:16:20.223" UserId="4014" Text="I have searched for a single button (sort of like an arcade button) that connects via RS232 and I have not found one.  Anyone know of such a device?  I'm sure I could build one but I am looking for a commercially available device.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a USB button but the application I am using asks for a COM Port number.  Will the USB button work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13429" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4289" RevisionGUID="a1289220-6155-4582-82e2-ad468f4e08c6" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:16:20.223" UserId="4014" Text="Serial/RS-232 Button" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4289" RevisionGUID="a1289220-6155-4582-82e2-ad468f4e08c6" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:16:20.223" UserId="4014" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;rs-232&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4291" RevisionGUID="bb1923c0-f737-43da-80df-33079a666d5d" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:00:40.463" UserId="3995" Text="This questions has already been answered but here is concrete information provided from seagate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also agree with the answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen Shot 2016-07-22 at 1.58.13 PM.png[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5eW7.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4293" RevisionGUID="a5706d70-e767-44b4-b5c5-0d8aee47884b" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:44:05.850" UserId="3836" Text="This is a [pushbutton][1]. There are many like it, but this one is yours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And this is how you [connect it to your serial port][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually these kinds of things require a little modification, unless such a part is sold by the very people who made the software you're using. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB solution may work just as well, I'm not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos%C2%AE-Momentary-Pushbutton-Suitable-Mounting/dp/B017KPM0S2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469216491&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pushbutton&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://reversemidastouch.blogspot.com/2012/06/create-simple-rs232-pushbutton-switch.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4294" RevisionGUID="991b115a-0346-448a-a353-e17c003524af" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:50:06.193" UserId="4016" Text="Very good deal:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121855&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Video+Card+-+Nvidia-_-N82E16814121855&amp;gclid=CIPejvXph84CFQgxaQodFewLEQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is 10$ more than your budget but I don't see why you cant chip 10$ in.&#xD;&#xA;This is a very solid card but your wishlist is very extravagant for this price range.&#xD;&#xA;This should meet your requirements except high settings and recording is just way out of your budget so you would probably have to play on medium. Or if you want high fps maybe low-medium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resources:http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-750-Ti-vs-GeForce-GTX-660-Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to that It is equal and slightly better than the 660 ti so if the website the person referenced is true than you should get equal fps or better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4295" RevisionGUID="27a0d401-310e-4213-9075-02371e1a00c5" CreationDate="2016-07-22T20:04:25.477" UserId="4016" Text="So if you are looking for what I think you are looking for I would suggest you look for a cheap server on ebay or in a small form factor case for around 80$ like this one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-DELL-DUAL-CORE-3-4-GHZ-DESKTOP-COMPUTER-PC-4GB-RAM-Wifi-WINDOWS-7-PRO-/262152856157?hash=item3d0987225d:g:AdoAAOSwYmZXI2bs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is very small comes with windows 7 and you can configure it with a 2tb hard drive for 100$ then for an os you can use windows 7 or you can use free nas which is an amazing server software which I have used myself and if you want to bring the 80$ down you can look for one with no os and just buy the hard drive and slip it in and put free nas on it. Now I dont know if you need a nice router but if you do I suggest this: http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/555607/Belkin-N300-Wireless-Router/?cm_mmc=PLA-_-Google-_-Printers_Scanners_Faxes-_-555607-VQ6-47886868676-VQ16-c-VQ17-pla-VQ18-online-VQ19-555607-VQ20-76926630596-VQ21--VQ22-177839036-VQ27-9203161796&amp;gclid=CILM5pvuh84CFQ6EaQodFvsHxw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have this hooked up to my modem and can get around 100mbps download speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speaking of modems if you want a nice one of those I would suggest this: ARRIS / Motorola SurfBoard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem – 600 MHz Dual-Thread Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have decent internet speed any one of these things are nice options for what you want if I am reading it right Sorry If I did not understand what you wanted&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;btw for freenas there are TONS of easy tutorials to set it up&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have no idea if I wrote what you wanted sorry if I did not" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4296" RevisionGUID="bb13b8b1-74a3-4be0-b67b-3db02b2c4eab" CreationDate="2016-07-22T21:42:57.377" UserId="40" Text="Nvidia [announced on 2016-07-21](http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/07/gtx-titan-x-pascal-specs-price-release-date/) the new GTX Titan X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under 1200 USD&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Potentially 24% faster than GTX 1080; 60% faster than the old Titan X.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 11 teraflops of FP32 performance&#xD;&#xA;- 12GB of GDDR5X memory running at an effective 10GHz and attached to a wide 382-bit bus, resulting in a 480GB/s of memory bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4298" RevisionGUID="318a651b-6673-4295-bd83-417ded5e289d" CreationDate="2016-07-23T02:17:18.527" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4299" RevisionGUID="ec8e6475-7e87-40db-a24d-5d7ec0bf615d" CreationDate="2016-07-23T02:17:18.527" UserId="155" Text="For questions about the serial communication standard commonly used to connect peripherals (e.g., printers and mice) to computers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4300" RevisionGUID="7ec5e78c-a307-42b7-8aeb-78136eaa7fec" CreationDate="2016-07-23T11:48:42.927" UserId="3995" Text="If you are running 1080p there are card choices for you to play overwatch near max settings with a GPU around $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend you continue saving to at least get an RX 480 for about $200 dollars and that will play EPIC settings which is maxed settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $150, then I would recommend GTX 950. Here is one on amazon for less than $150 - [MSI GTX 950 $132.99][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $125, then I would recommend a, like the others an GTX 660ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But overall, it seems like the GTX 950 is my overall recommended card in your case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-950-2GD5-OCV1/dp/B01CX4URJO/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469274088&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=gtx%20950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="f24abd60-e847-406e-8d3b-e08b780ef750" CreationDate="2016-07-23T11:53:17.580" UserId="2086" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="1. Can use twitch&#xD;&#xA;2. Can record screen and gameplay using windows-G option.&#xD;&#xA;3. Can play overwatch at full screen with maxed graphic&#xD;&#xA;4. Cheap. Under $100. Or around. Well, actually even $500 is not an issue but it's better VERY justified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using NVIDIA GeForce GT 530 [Display adapter]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4300" RevisionGUID="a71eae7f-b971-4300-bbdc-313087c42cdb" CreationDate="2016-07-23T11:55:51.817" UserId="3995" Comment="added 230 characters in body" Text="If you are running 1080p there are card choices for you to play overwatch near max settings with a GPU around $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend you continue saving to at least get an AMD RX 480 for about $200 dollars and that will play EPIC settings which is maxed settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $150, then I would recommend GTX 950. Here is one on amazon for less than $150 - [MSI GTX 950 $132.99][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $125, then I would recommend a, like the others an GTX 660ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But overall, it seems like the GTX 950 is my overall recommended card in your case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edited**: after seeing your using a intel i5, you should be fine to hit higher frames these cards are intended to hit. If you can't hit the desired frames, then you might want to look into safety overclocking your CPU and GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-950-2GD5-OCV1/dp/B01CX4URJO/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469274088&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=gtx%20950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4300" RevisionGUID="5aae5561-6e7f-4fb0-a163-2fe39c96f31f" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:10:30.193" UserId="3995" Comment="added 461 characters in body" Text="If you are running 1080p there are card choices for you to play overwatch near max settings with a GPU around $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend you continue saving to at least get an AMD RX 480 for about $200 dollars and that will play EPIC settings which is maxed settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $150, then I would recommend GTX 950. Here is one on amazon for less than $150 - [MSI GTX 950 $132.99][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $125, then I would recommend a, like the others an GTX 660ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But overall, it seems like the GTX 950 is my overall recommended card in your case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edited**: after seeing your using a intel i5, you should be fine to hit higher frames these cards are intended to hit. If you can't hit the desired frames, then you might want to look into safety overclocking your CPU and GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Newest Edit**&#xD;&#xA;The NVIDIA GTX 1060 just came out for MSRP $250, that and the AMD RX 480, destroys current 1080p games! **IMPORTANT**: in order to get any of these new cards listed for their MSRP, you will have to wait for less demand and more supply. Cause right now people are buying these cards for more than what they're supposed to cost. Or buy them from a BestBuy or something. Usually, BestBuy doesn't push their prices up based on supply and demand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for windows G, im not sure what that is, but i know people who use twitch that stream with twitch has that equal or more powerful cards listed in this post with no problems at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-950-2GD5-OCV1/dp/B01CX4URJO/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469274088&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=gtx%20950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4282" RevisionGUID="fd577487-1129-46bb-9294-227058955550" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:56:20.167" UserId="2086" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="1. Can use twitch&#xD;&#xA;2. Can record screen and gameplay using windows-G option. http://10windows.pro/what-are-the-pc-system-requirements-for-recording-game-clips-in-the-xbox-app/&#xD;&#xA;3. Can play overwatch at full screen with maxed graphic&#xD;&#xA;4. Cheap. Under $100. Or around. Well, actually even $500 is not an issue but it's better VERY justified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using NVIDIA GeForce GT 530 [Display adapter]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13458" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="81ce162e-f374-40d8-886b-3310465f12cc" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:54:35.993" UserId="4023" Text="A week ago I've built my new pc. The case came with 2 in-built 3-pin case fans, and my motherboard only has one 3-pin SYS-FAN connection. One case fan is in top-rear of the case, and the other fan at the bottom-front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm using only the rear-top fan and I do not have no problems with heat or airflow. However, I'd like to connect an additional fan, just because I have it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two possibilities for the fan on the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can connect it directly to the PSU with a cable like [this](https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/molex-4x-3p-fan-kabel-2x-5v-2x-12v-0-30-meter-29256). The con is that the fan will always rotate at full speed. I do not know if fans are used to rotate at full speed.&#xD;&#xA;2. I can connect it with a Y-cable like [this](https://www.conrad.nl/nl/pc-ventilator-y-kabel-2x-pc-ventilator-stekker-4-polig-1x-pc-ventilator-bus-4-polig-015-m-zwart-akasa-976189.html?WT.mc_id=gshop&amp;insert=8J&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUk2a1xX9Fc3CWUfkEBGVtNCVs1g_3KscjI1_6y-v6rzBoCWmfw_wcB&amp;tid=211354628_17335160228_pla-218016956228_pla-976189&amp;WT.srch=1) or [this](https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/3-pins-case-fan-v-2x-3-pins-case-fan-m-splitter-0-10-meter?id=OKS-54617&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUkr17KTjFtrkey2eHO3H-yGnBBe4rJksTGp5gJFBfVjBoCHqzw_wcB). Will a splitter like that work fine? Looking at the second link it seems that the speed-controlling cable is missing. Is this also the case in the first one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want to use a fan controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="81ce162e-f374-40d8-886b-3310465f12cc" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:54:35.993" UserId="4023" Text="Case fans: on PSU or SYS-FAN splitter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="81ce162e-f374-40d8-886b-3310465f12cc" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:54:35.993" UserId="4023" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4305" RevisionGUID="a545cf90-e0bb-4d2e-9251-3a9897127b22" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:30:49.953" UserId="3836" Text="Just connect it to the PSU unless the noise it makes is not acceptable. It is not bad for the fan to run at full speed all the time. The splitters will communicate the same fan speed to both fans." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="0932b99e-cf7d-4d66-b8ee-d5b6b3b210d0" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:39:54.190" UserId="3836" Comment="fixed grammar and punctuation." Text="A week ago I built my new pc. The case came with 2 in-built 3-pin case fans, and my motherboard only has one 3-pin SYS-FAN connection. One case fan is in top-rear of the case, and the other fan at the bottom-front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm using only the rear-top fan and I do not have problems with heat or airflow. However, I'd like to connect an additional fan, just because I have it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two possibilities for the fan on the front:&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can connect it directly to the PSU with a cable like [this](https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/molex-4x-3p-fan-kabel-2x-5v-2x-12v-0-30-meter-29256). The con is that the fan will always rotate at full speed. I do not know if fans are used to rotate at full speed.&#xD;&#xA;2. I can connect it with a Y-cable like [this](https://www.conrad.nl/nl/pc-ventilator-y-kabel-2x-pc-ventilator-stekker-4-polig-1x-pc-ventilator-bus-4-polig-015-m-zwart-akasa-976189.html?WT.mc_id=gshop&amp;insert=8J&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUk2a1xX9Fc3CWUfkEBGVtNCVs1g_3KscjI1_6y-v6rzBoCWmfw_wcB&amp;tid=211354628_17335160228_pla-218016956228_pla-976189&amp;WT.srch=1) or [this](https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/3-pins-case-fan-v-2x-3-pins-case-fan-m-splitter-0-10-meter?id=OKS-54617&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUkr17KTjFtrkey2eHO3H-yGnBBe4rJksTGp5gJFBfVjBoCHqzw_wcB). Will a splitter like that work well? Looking at the second link, it seems that the speed-controlling cable is missing. Is this also the case in the first one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want to use a fan controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="0932b99e-cf7d-4d66-b8ee-d5b6b3b210d0" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:39:54.190" Comment="Proposed by 3836 approved by 8 edit id of 487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4303" RevisionGUID="fe0ae605-3d1f-44c1-a6d6-f3f04c18d156" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:40:02.830" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="4197fe51-cf07-41c2-be48-5ff8acfa6627" CreationDate="2016-07-24T23:16:42.333" UserId="1658" Text="Trackpoint keyboard already exist:&#xD;&#xA;https://images.jet.com/md5/22d6695565fc48b6cb9f00191d3fd8f4.500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure I'm using the right word, but by trackpoint, I mean the little red ball in the keyboard picture that can be used as a mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it has some problems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. On one end of the wired USB connection to the keyboard, there is a micro USB. I use the keyboard on my lap and slight movements can result in the micro USB still physically in the socket, but still resulting in connection problems or very weird problems like the cursor moving by itself across the screen. This forces me to connect and reconnect the keyboard a few times until it gets back to normal. If the micro USB was just a full sized USB, that it might have been able to fit in more tightly and prevent this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. It's not wireless USB, which is my favorite connection by far. I use the keyboard leisurely on the couch sitting in front of a large monitor or TV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really love the trackpoint keyboard and am not considering touchpad keyboards at the moment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, what are some hardware recommendations that avoid these problems? Keyboards with trackpoint that feel alright on your lap. Perhaps are there hardware recommendations with a trackpoint keyboard with full sized USB on both ends? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="4197fe51-cf07-41c2-be48-5ff8acfa6627" CreationDate="2016-07-24T23:16:42.333" UserId="1658" Text="Trackpoint Keyboard that fixes these problems" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="4197fe51-cf07-41c2-be48-5ff8acfa6627" CreationDate="2016-07-24T23:16:42.333" UserId="1658" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13496" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="a3d666c9-2b9d-4b42-86ba-90f500e6277e" CreationDate="2016-07-25T00:14:13.040" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4312" RevisionGUID="c298bf71-e4ab-4dfd-88ff-99c4b894cad4" CreationDate="2016-07-25T11:04:09.923" UserId="3902" Text="You have almost the same model as yours, but using a bluetooth connexion:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/ThinkPad-Compact-Bluetooth-Keyboard-TrackPoint/dp/B00C32FWJC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No wires, no connexion issues and a trackpoint wich is all you asked for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bit expensive though..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="46bf59e6-214f-49a3-b8f9-d19c4c544984" CreationDate="2016-07-25T12:11:30.750" UserId="8" Comment="34" />
  <row Id="13514" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4245" RevisionGUID="469340cd-51a3-4983-9c34-1baa396bbc97" CreationDate="2016-07-25T12:11:36.640" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13515" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="1fdf3c3f-aeeb-4d46-bd69-10d8a62aa519" CreationDate="2016-07-25T12:13:41.743" UserId="8" Comment="35" />
  <row Id="13519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="4365858c-56ea-478e-a98b-6d84b3f25a5f" CreationDate="2016-07-25T13:36:21.467" UserId="3836" Comment="deleted 107 characters in body" Text="Check out the [there is][1]: GeChic 2501H 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Portable Monitor with HDMI, VGA Inputs. This is a battery-powered, tablet-like form-factor screen from a well-known company. It meets all requirements listed above except for the size requirement - it is about two and a half inches too wide. This product has been on the market for some time; I realize now that I had been researching a similar need a year or two ago, so the reviews available to us on store pages for the device are long-standing and reflect somewhat on its build quality and usefulness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469028328&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=portable%20monitor%20HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="faaed67a-31ab-4a2a-b2da-9bf54dae86b6" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:50:37.297" UserId="30" Text="I want to buy a computer (new/unused, ideally off-the-shelf) that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* contains absolutely no proprietary software by default, and&#xD;&#xA;* can be used without installing proprietary software (it’s fine if non-essential things are not supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Device ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn’t matter what kind of device it is (desktop, laptop, [tablet](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/301/30 &quot;Tablet that comes with 100% FLOSS&quot;), [smartphone](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30 &quot;Smartphone that ships without pre-installed proprietary software?&quot;), single-board computer, …), as long as the user can plug in **a monitor, a keyboard, and a mouse**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should allow to connect to the **Internet** somehow. It does not have to be built-in, as long as there is a supported external device available that also only comes and runs with Free/Libre software only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound output** would be nice, too, but this could also be an external device (again, if a suitable Free/Libre one is available and supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Operating system ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would welcome if it can run a (well known) GNU/Linux or BSD operating system, but I don’t want to require it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, it should be a &quot;real&quot; OS, i.e., a system that allows users to update it and to install software; not a single-purpose system (like an [e-book reader](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1548/30 &quot;E-book reader running only free/libre software&quot;)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Use case ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Browsing the Web, managing files, writing documents, listening to music, using the terminal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No HD videos, no video/graphic editing, no games, no compilation … nothing that requires much power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### What I found so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The Free Software Foundation [certified](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom) three laptops ([Libreboot T400](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-t400/), [Libreboot X200](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-x200/), [Taurinus X200](https://shop.libiquity.com/product/taurinus-x200)).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Problem: Not new/unused. They use refurbished laptops (i.e., they bought used laptops that came with proprietary software, replaced parts, flashed the firmware, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Earth-friendly EOMA68 Computing Devices](https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68/micro-desktop) offers single-board computers (and optionally corresponding desktop/laptop housings, whose design gets also published under a libre license). Its Libre Tea Computer Card will likely get FSF’s RYF certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Problem: It’s in crowdfunding currently. Could become a good solution, but only if they will be available for sale after the crowdunding period.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to be clear, I do not require [FSF’s *Respects Your Freedom* certification](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom). The difference between their and my requirements is that I’m fine with OS that make the installation of proprietary software easy, as long as the user has the choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13530" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="faaed67a-31ab-4a2a-b2da-9bf54dae86b6" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:50:37.297" UserId="30" Text="Computer that comes and runs with Free/Libre software only" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13531" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="faaed67a-31ab-4a2a-b2da-9bf54dae86b6" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:50:37.297" UserId="30" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2053" RevisionGUID="3ed1feaa-2cf5-45d4-a84a-913faddcb714" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:59:42.953" UserId="30" Comment="fixed list markup" Text="There are several developers working towards this right now! Unfortunately most of these projects are still in the &quot;Crowdfunding&quot; or &quot;Pre-order&quot; stages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One promising board, the &quot;UP-Board&quot; currently on Pre-Order: http://www.up-board.org/  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- $99  &#xD;&#xA;- 2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;- 16GB EMMC memory  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel processor (Compatible with Windows 8.1/10, Unknown if compatible with Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another promising board, the &quot;Lattepanda&quot; currently still in the Pre-Order stage [located here][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- $89  &#xD;&#xA;- 2GB RAM  &#xD;&#xA;- 32GB EMMC memory  &#xD;&#xA;- Intel atom (quad-core) processor (Compatible with Windows 8.1/10, Linux various)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honorable mentions:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [MinnowbardMAX][2]  &#xD;&#xA;- [JaguarBoard][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for a board that is currently available at your price point and also X86, you are out of luck. However, if you upped your price point by between $50-$100, you'd find some neat boards [on Amazon][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NOTE: I am involved with the Lattepanda project as a backer, however I do not own or operate it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/search&amp;description=true&amp;search=lattepanda&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://wiki.minnowboard.org/MinnowBoard_MAX&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/263025908/jaguarboard-x86-based-single-board-computer/description&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_36_3?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Ck%3Aintel%20nuc%2Cp_36%3A1253506011&amp;keywords=intel%20nuc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455684841&amp;rnid=386442011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13533" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2053" RevisionGUID="3ed1feaa-2cf5-45d4-a84a-913faddcb714" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:59:42.953" Comment="Proposed by 30 approved by 57, 595 edit id of 489" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13534" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4317" RevisionGUID="2cbb1af9-4355-4d73-ba54-b86e7e0631ce" CreationDate="2016-07-25T17:19:37.450" UserId="3836" Text="You can buy used. [This][1] is an extremely cheap x86 platform that does actually have some upgrade potential. It costs $50, but is more powerful than some SBC options and certainly more configurable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is the cheapest such machine I am aware of from large suppliers online. You may be able to source considerably better machines locally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7RB3E95983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13539" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2052" RevisionGUID="816fefd8-a421-4824-b1cd-b2b032285dd6" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:56:04.643" UserId="30" Comment="does not seem to be about Raspberry Pi" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13540" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2052" RevisionGUID="816fefd8-a421-4824-b1cd-b2b032285dd6" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:56:04.643" Comment="Proposed by 30 approved by 57, 912 edit id of 488" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4319" RevisionGUID="27f24535-5e2a-4d60-979b-39c75966cb7c" CreationDate="2016-07-25T20:01:48.373" UserId="3836" Text="I recommend the [Pi-Top][1]. It is mostly opensourced. The GPU driver has a proprietary blob in it, I think, but of course you don't need to install that; there are several terminal-only distros you could use on this device. I believe even most of the hardware, if not all of the hardware, is open source at this point, or will be in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pi-top.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="03eff944-ad0e-4e3f-8f39-15ed7001efdc" CreationDate="2016-07-25T23:20:48.383" UserId="275" Text="A lot of people find listening to white noise or documentaries useful for going to sleep. &#xA;&#xA;I usually use my phone to do this, but the problem is that it's tempting to browse the internet on my phone. &#xA;&#xA;Are there any devices that allow for different forms of white noise, or ideally can be loaded with podcasts? &#xA;&#xA;Also good would be if it can double as an alarm clock,  especially an alarm clock that has a light that turns on. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13550" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="03eff944-ad0e-4e3f-8f39-15ed7001efdc" CreationDate="2016-07-25T23:20:48.383" UserId="275" Text="A noise maker to assist with sleep" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13551" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="03eff944-ad0e-4e3f-8f39-15ed7001efdc" CreationDate="2016-07-25T23:20:48.383" UserId="275" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4321" RevisionGUID="3798fcb3-c6e8-4038-a63e-3bace7010878" CreationDate="2016-07-26T06:14:08.483" UserId="3836" Text="I will make the case that the ASRock Z97 Extreme6 motherboard is the best choice because of its feature set and price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing to note about all boards under consideration is that they are absolutely top-notch. These boards represented the best each respective company could put together when socket 1150 was the leading socket for Intel. In terms of durability, reliability, and manufacturer support, these rank ahead of any other OEM motherboard for this socket in the desktop space. This leaves only price and feature set to differentiate them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another poster has recommended the Asus Maximus Ranger vii motherboard. This was a very popular choice in its heyday because it had a good marketing campaign, Asus enjoys good brand rep, and because it was priced intelligently *above* many of its competitors, giving it the aura of an elite product SKU (which it certainly is). However, I think that for precisely these reasons, it is now certainly not the right choice for you. This board is not in much supply right now, so unless you want to buy used, it will be difficult to procure at a reasonable cost. My recommendation, the ASRock Z97 Extreme6, is still [available on Newegg at a very competitive price][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though price seems to favor AsRock's board, this means nothing if AsRock doesn't bring compelling features to the table. Fortunately, AsRock does. Let's compare (please excuse the crappy pic):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison of the Extreme6 vs. the Maximus Ranger][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In almost all of the most important ways, these two boards are identical. They enjoy the same chipset, the same RAM slots, the same cooling schema, and a similar audio chipset. The important advantages of the Extreme6 are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual gigabit ethernet. This allows quite a bit of flexibility and creativity when it comes to how you configure your network - you can even team these connections together to get a better connection to your router, though that's probably not going to help much if you don't also have a teamed connection all the way out to a fiber line - the real joy of having this feature is that the board will remain useful to you as a server after it has ceased being your gaming rig. It also allows you to do neat things like daisy chain an ethernet connection to another PC, or access some kind of network resource like a server, separate LAN, or whatever while not giving up your primary hardline connection to do so.&#xD;&#xA; - 6x USB 3.0 without headers. This is great because it means two more USB 3.0 connections and more longevity in terms of your ability to support modern peripherals.&#xD;&#xA; - Displayport output on motherboard. This is the most modern video out format available, and it is not available on the Maximus.&#xD;&#xA; - mPCI-E port. This gives you access to cheap laptop parts like wifi cards, 4G modems, and GPS units. It represents added versatility over the Maximus.&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum shared memory is more permissive (1700mb vs 500mb); you can attach many screens to your motherboard video outs (especially using DP splitters) without worrying about running out of framebuffer.&#xD;&#xA; - SATA Express connector available, offering compatibility with one of the fastest available connections to external drives.&#xD;&#xA; - More SATA connectors available on a separate controller helps to alleviate potential I/O bottlenecks at the controller level if you install your HDDs intelligently. &#xD;&#xA; - More and faster m.2 connectors - has 2, one of which is the newer, faster Ultra type&#xD;&#xA; - More and more intelligently-placed fan headers. It is worth noting, though, that the AsRock's fan headers are mostly 3-pin, while the Maximus enjoys mostly 4-pin fan controllers, which usually gives the computer access to better speed control for fans that support 4 pin connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I think the features you get with the AsRock board outweigh the Maximus' brand name even at the same price, given that both these boards are well made. The added versatility is something that will make this board a workhorse for you or whoever else owns it long past the days when it can serve as a gaming rig's basis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132514&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Vszq0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4322" RevisionGUID="412096ef-6150-4fa5-8b45-2edddc76f4eb" CreationDate="2016-07-26T06:48:49.487" UserId="3902" Text="I don't know any white sound machine that also does alarm clock.&#xD;&#xA;You didn't specify any price range so I assume we'll go for a middle range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this case, I'd recommend the Marpac Dohm-DS (https://www.amazon.com/Marpac-Dohm-DS-All-Natural-Machine-Actual/dp/B000KUHFGM) which is around 50€ and has the advantage to create its own sound with an internal fan instead of only playing recored sounds. However there isn't any sound selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for more than one sound, you may consider the Lectrofan (https://www.amazon.com/LectroFan-White-Noise-Machine-Options/dp/B00JU8P8VY) which for the same price offers 10 fan sounds and 10 white noises.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the two I know, you can find them inside a tiny article I just found (http://www.nosleeplessnights.com/best-white-noise-machine-reviews/), that presents also two others machines (a high end, ~100€, and a low-end, ~20€)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4323" RevisionGUID="d93ca133-a6a0-4a35-a2f6-7075593ba65e" CreationDate="2016-07-26T09:39:02.247" UserId="4037" Text="I recently bought a new android phone to get a bigger screen, thinking about using it for VR too. However, I found out it doesn't have a compass (I didn't even think it was mandatory). Even though I could probably live without VR, it bothers me when it comes to GPS maps, as they can't tell me where I'm looking at, and, most of all, Google Sky Map, which is pretty useful when I'm whith my telescope. Since I've seen lots of external cameras for android, even 3D and 180 degrees, and my phone does have OTG (I think it'd be needed), does an external usb compass for android exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13560" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4323" RevisionGUID="d93ca133-a6a0-4a35-a2f6-7075593ba65e" CreationDate="2016-07-26T09:39:02.247" UserId="4037" Text="External android compass" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13561" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4323" RevisionGUID="d93ca133-a6a0-4a35-a2f6-7075593ba65e" CreationDate="2016-07-26T09:39:02.247" UserId="4037" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13565" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="61b30d53-36a6-4785-950c-66e851c42bdd" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:35:00.637" UserId="1658" Comment="Forgot to mention bluetooth" Text="Trackpoint keyboard already exist:&#xD;&#xA;https://images.jet.com/md5/22d6695565fc48b6cb9f00191d3fd8f4.500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure I'm using the right word, but by trackpoint, I mean the little red ball in the keyboard picture that can be used as a mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it has some problems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. On one end of the wired USB connection to the keyboard, there is a micro USB. I use the keyboard on my lap and slight movements can result in the micro USB still physically in the socket, but still resulting in connection problems or very weird problems like the cursor moving by itself across the screen. This forces me to connect and reconnect the keyboard a few times until it gets back to normal. If the micro USB was just a full sized USB, that it might have been able to fit in more tightly and prevent this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. It's not wireless USB, which is my favorite connection by far. I use the keyboard leisurely on the couch sitting in front of a large monitor or TV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really love the trackpoint keyboard and am not considering touchpad keyboards at the moment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, what are some hardware recommendations that avoid these problems? Keyboards with trackpoint that feel alright on your lap. Perhaps are there hardware recommendations with a trackpoint keyboard with full sized USB on both ends? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Preferably not bluetooth. I have had problems with the bluetooth version of this keyboard. I don't have problems with my bluetooth headphones. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13570" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4327" RevisionGUID="2c515c79-101e-405d-9b0a-2b9d2a5f2f15" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:50:41.517" UserId="3980" Text="I was wondering if it is possible to use crossfire with the MSi R7 370 4gb and the MSi R7 370 2gb. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13571" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4327" RevisionGUID="2c515c79-101e-405d-9b0a-2b9d2a5f2f15" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:50:41.517" UserId="3980" Text="Crossfire Compatibility MSi R7 370 4GB and 2GB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13572" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4327" RevisionGUID="2c515c79-101e-405d-9b0a-2b9d2a5f2f15" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:50:41.517" UserId="3980" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4328" RevisionGUID="de8a94f4-0930-45e3-bf03-325fde4221ef" CreationDate="2016-07-26T20:06:54.653" UserId="4043" Text="Crossfire is a little more forgiving than SLI. You **can** crossfire these cards together, but you should be warned that doing so means being hamstrung by the maximum values of the weaker card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, you will have the computational power of two 370s (minus crossfire overhead), but you will be stuck with a maximum of 2GB of VRAM. Depending on what you are pushing through these cards, your performance could very well decrease significantly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13576" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4327" RevisionGUID="6b2c96ed-cee5-48a8-b3e7-ea2dcfc21118" CreationDate="2016-07-26T21:00:17.580" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4312" RevisionGUID="bcef08fc-6fbe-40b3-b1fa-f4e5c06144e0" CreationDate="2016-07-27T06:28:39.573" UserId="3902" Comment="added an other solution, without bluetooth" Text="You have almost the same model as yours, but using a bluetooth connexion:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/ThinkPad-Compact-Bluetooth-Keyboard-TrackPoint/dp/B00C32FWJC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No wires, no connexion issues and a trackpoint wich is all you asked for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bit expensive though...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;After the comments about the non-reliability of the ThinkPad bluetooth keyboard, and since I cannot find any other wireless keyboard with a trackpad, an idea came to my mind: using a standard, wired ThinkPad key board (such as http://amzn.to/2a7ekRo, something that you already have) and link it to a wireless usb hub (http://amzn.to/2atdCRv). Definitly not the sexyiest solution but it can free you out from short cable while in front of tv." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="5e906c22-aaf8-46b0-af5a-a7d6248a32a4" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:00:10.253" UserId="3902" Text="This question is here after I ask this one: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4275/uhd-compatible-graphic-card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is that I have a HTPC and would like to be able to read UHD movies (since the i3's IGP cannot). As you can see in the previous question, finding a passive GPU with UHD display is impossible for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, during my researches, I found a motherboard that embed a CPU (Pentium J3710) http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp. Following the description, it should be able to do UHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard is a good start but appart from the Asrock's description, if I go onto the Intel website, I cannot find any information about this CPU and its IGP (espectially the maximum resolution) and I didn't find anything else like this. Maybe you could ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements for a motherboard that embed a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive and low counsumption&#xD;&#xA; - UHD resolution output with hardware h265 decoding&#xD;&#xA; - At least 3 SATA connectors (2 for RAID, one for BlueRay). 3 or 6GB/s, I don't mind&#xD;&#xA; - My current chassis is Micro-ATX so no ATX, but Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX are ok" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="5e906c22-aaf8-46b0-af5a-a7d6248a32a4" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:00:10.253" UserId="3902" Text="Motherboard with embeded CPU for HTPC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="5e906c22-aaf8-46b0-af5a-a7d6248a32a4" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:00:10.253" UserId="3902" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;&lt;htpc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4334" RevisionGUID="3521b04a-e6f1-4aaf-aca8-b8cf28e7683f" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:30:26.833" UserId="4051" Text="I'm looking into getting a new gaming pc, but I'm not much of a hardware enthusiast. I know what kind of general specs I want to have, but when it comes to details, especially the mainboard, I'm lost with all the kinda same-y, similar price-range motherboards out there.&#xD;&#xA;Here are my current planned specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-GTX 1070 (not sure which model yet, but I think that shouldn't matter for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel i5 6600K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-2x8GB RAM (Model would depend on mainboard, no?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-3 Harddrives (2 SSD's, 1HDD) and a Blu Ray Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-ATX Chassis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;further considerations:&#xD;&#xA;-I'm not likely going to get into overclocking, but I *might* upgrade to SLI at a distant point in the future (if that becomes more viable for gaming in the next years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I'm not going to try and desperately squeeze the most bang-for-buck out of this computer, but if you recommend something overly expensive I would need good reasoning to consider it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-The PC is mostly going to be used for gaming, no fancy hobbies that need special considerations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:**&#xD;&#xA;What motherboard would you recommend for my set up? Why specifically this one? Are there other considerations I haven't thought of yet?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus:** What kind of RAM would you get for the motherboard you suggested?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13595" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4334" RevisionGUID="3521b04a-e6f1-4aaf-aca8-b8cf28e7683f" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:30:26.833" UserId="4051" Text="Motherboard for intel skylake mid-to-high-range gaming pc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13596" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4334" RevisionGUID="3521b04a-e6f1-4aaf-aca8-b8cf28e7683f" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:30:26.833" UserId="4051" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13597" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2672" RevisionGUID="3c505cef-14b8-4c3b-abba-257a46d361e8" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:44:04.320" UserId="40" Comment="add cnn-benchmarks" Text="Nvidia has just announced the Nvidia GTX 1080, which is ~25% faster than the Titan X and significantly cheaper ( 600 USD vs 1000 USD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From http://www.anandtech.com/show/10304/nvidia-announces-the-geforce-gtx-1080-1070/2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From http://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-launch/:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's difficult to find exhaustive specification comparison tables between the GTX 1080 and Titan X (I guess they should appear soon). A few more comparisons GTX 1080 vs Titan X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 9 Tflops vs 6.1 Tflops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From some Nvidia official presentation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Nvidia GTX 1070 was also announced: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [cnn-benchmarks](https://github.com/jcjohnson/cnn-benchmarks/blob/master/README.md):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GTX 1080 &gt; Titan X: Across all models, the GTX 1080 is 1.10x to 1.15x faster than the Titan X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gujo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QK61Y.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wldRM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3EYWL.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HKfVd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4335" RevisionGUID="bcdadd25-0144-44e7-b38a-583577938abf" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:03:11.280" UserId="4039" Text="Let's start saying that your setup seems really more-than-good, even of i would go with an Intel Core i7-6700K, and 1 SSD (256GB) and 2 HDD (1TB or + each) cause today's games tent to &quot;eat&quot; many and many Gigs. &#xA;BUT the i5 processors are a really good deal for gaming and you sure did your counts about what you need for the storage parts, those was only advices from my personal point of view.&#xA;&#xA;As per your motherboard choice, i can point you here:&#xA;&#xA; **Asus Z170 Pro Gaming** &#xA;&#xA;It has the latest chipset and it's kinda futureproof 'cause it has the 1151 CPU socket (the i7 mentioned above has the same socket) and it also supports DDR4 Ram (up to 64GB)&#xA;&#xA;There it comes the answer to your &quot;Bonus question&quot;;&#xA;&#xA;For the RAM choice, my advice would be:&#xA;&#xA;**Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) @ 2666MHz**&#xA;&#xA;I think there's no much to explain here, everything is in the product description.&#xA;&#xA;That's all, hope this helps and if you need any other advice, feel free to ask! :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4312" RevisionGUID="23ae06ce-a7b8-4fea-adea-c5733c007ddd" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:48:30.363" UserId="57" Comment="minor spelling fixes" Text="You have almost the same model as yours, but using a bluetooth connection:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/ThinkPad-Compact-Bluetooth-Keyboard-TrackPoint/dp/B00C32FWJC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No wires, no connection issues and a trackpoint which is all you asked for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bit expensive though...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;After the comments about the non-reliability of the ThinkPad bluetooth keyboard, and since I cannot find any other wireless keyboard with a trackpad, an idea came to my mind: using a standard, wired ThinkPad key board (such as http://amzn.to/2a7ekRo, something that you already have) and link it to a wireless usb hub (http://amzn.to/2atdCRv). Definitely not the prettiest solution but it can free you out from short cable while in front of tv." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13600" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4244" RevisionGUID="3dcae4c8-d7e1-40a9-b442-f8fca4ea3e6f" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:00:45.220" UserId="57" Comment="moves comment to question" Text="I'm looking for a laptop to do application development with (Java, C, Virtual Machines ect), but I'd rather not be throwing money at a big graphics card too. I have narrowed down some of my specs to the following but I haven't come to any decisions, and was hoping you could lend some help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i7 Processor&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- Good bus architecture&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 512GB&gt; HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Decent battery life&#xD;&#xA;- Very solid build&#xD;&#xA;- External display support&#xD;&#xA;- Not a tiny laptop&#xD;&#xA;- Windows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- High-end graphics card&#xD;&#xA;- Weight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For software I'm looking at IDEs like Eclipse and Visual Studio doing large regular compiles and linking. By good bus architecture I mean I want to avoid hampering the RAM and processor with additional buffers or small buses like I've noticed some cheaper laptops do. I hadn't thought of using an external HDD. A fast one would probably be fine. As for good battery life 3-4 hours at high performance is really what I'm after, but I could survive happily at a little less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget isn't a huge problem, but hoping £800-£1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13601" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="486f2e67-72da-459d-9085-0c5530a4465f" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:35:45.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13602" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4336" RevisionGUID="f02999d5-37b9-43c0-b5fa-a1f696526b55" CreationDate="2016-07-27T21:58:50.153" UserId="3836" Text="The best answer here is to put into this what it is worth - which is basically a low-end gaming system by today's standards. Dropping one of the hexacore CPUs into this will likely represent an investment simply not worth the returns, since those CPUs are highly sought after now that they are out of production and [command a high price on a resale circuit][1] - so much so that [newer, cheaper chips from AMD and Intel beat them out][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, given that the above is not actually the ANSWER to your question, the ANSWER lies on the [CPU support page for your mobo's revision level][3]: the most powerful processor available to you is the Phenom II X6 1090T. The [AMD Phenom II X6 1100T][4] May also work, but it is not officially supported by the BIOS, so I can't say definitively that it will work. It will *probably* work. Be careful, because there are [Phenoms made which exceed the TDP rating for your board][5] and could easily damage it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What GPU will be bottlenecked/not bottlenecked by this CPU? All of them; that's not how bottlenecking works. Different programs place different strains on different parts of a computer, so even a high end CPU can be the bottleneck of a low-end GPU if it is trying to do something like downscale an h.265 video transcode, which is highly CPU-intensive, or play a game like Civilization 5, which is notorious for its high CPU usage in the late game but places relatively low demands on GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the CPUs available to this board are somewhat weak compared to modern offerings in a similar price bracket, it makes sense to get an Nvidia GeForce GPU instead of an AMD Radeon GPU, because historically Nvidia driver overhead (the load placed on the CPU when the GPU is running) has been higher for AMD products. This is not a major consideration, however, so price is a major determinant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The onboard GPU is of no consequence for your purposes unless you want to attach a second screen to it; then it would make a little more sense to go with Nvidia for your primary GPU just so you could have a driver environment all from one supplier, which should be a little more stable (not necessarily though, since you will need to run two separate drivers and that old motherboard GPU may not have Windows 10 compliant drivers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a 1090T CPU and a decent overclock to something like 4ghz on all six cores, given a Titan X GPU (not a recommendation, just a removal of most GPU bottlenecks for hypothetical purposes); this system should be able to handle most modern games at maximum settings; a notable exception would be any title which is heavily single-threaded and demanding on the CPU (most bad console ports, for example, of which Assassin's Creed: Black Flag and Unity are shining examples). In general, the CPU is less a limiting factor in gaming PCs than the GPU. Tests have been done showing the lowly Athlon 5350 [performing admirably when paired with a midrange modern GPU][6]. Where you are comfortable in that gradient of performance is largely up to personal taste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=phenom%20hex%20core&amp;_sop=15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=393&amp;cmp%5B%5D=1781&amp;cmp%5B%5D=793&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gigabyte.in/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3645&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X6%201100T%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HDE00ZFBK6DGR%20(HDE00ZFBGRBOX).html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X4%20965%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HDZ965FBK4DGI%20(HDZ965FBGIBOX).html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://youtu.be/8LVYgtGW32k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13603" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4336" RevisionGUID="648b5415-0b65-4280-a78f-0e39faeb506d" CreationDate="2016-07-27T22:04:16.217" UserId="3836" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="The best answer here is to put into this what it is worth - which is basically a low-end gaming system by today's standards. Dropping one of the hexacore CPUs into this will likely represent an investment simply not worth the returns, since those CPUs are highly sought after now that they are out of production and [command a high price on a resale circuit][1] - so much so that [newer, cheaper chips from AMD and Intel beat them out][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, given that the above is not actually the ANSWER to your question, the ANSWER lies on the [CPU support page for your mobo's revision level][3]: **the most powerful processor available to you is the Phenom II X6 1090T**. The [AMD Phenom II X6 1100T][4] May also work, but it is not officially supported by the BIOS, so I can't say definitively that it will work. It will *probably* work. Be careful, because there are [Phenoms made which exceed the TDP rating for your board][5] and could easily damage it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What GPU will be bottlenecked/not bottlenecked by this CPU? All of them; that's not how bottlenecking works. Different programs place different strains on different parts of a computer, so even a high end CPU can be the bottleneck of a low-end GPU if it is trying to do something like downscale an h.265 video transcode, which is highly CPU-intensive, or play a game like Civilization 5, which is notorious for its high CPU usage in the late game but places relatively low demands on GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the CPUs available to this board are somewhat weak compared to modern offerings in a similar price bracket, it makes sense to get an Nvidia GeForce GPU instead of an AMD Radeon GPU, because historically Nvidia driver overhead (the load placed on the CPU when the GPU is running) has been higher for AMD products. This is not a major consideration, however, so price is a major determinant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The onboard GPU is of no consequence for your purposes unless you want to attach a second screen to it; then it would make a little more sense to go with Nvidia for your primary GPU just so you could have a driver environment all from one supplier, which should be a little more stable (not necessarily though, since you will need to run two separate drivers and that old motherboard GPU may not have Windows 10 compliant drivers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a 1090T CPU and a decent overclock to something like 4ghz on all six cores, given a Titan X GPU (not a recommendation, just a removal of most GPU bottlenecks for hypothetical purposes); this system should be able to handle most modern games at maximum settings; a notable exception would be any title which is heavily single-threaded and demanding on the CPU (most bad console ports, for example, of which Assassin's Creed: Black Flag and Unity are shining examples). In general, the CPU is less a limiting factor in gaming PCs than the GPU. Tests have been done showing the lowly Athlon 5350 [performing admirably when paired with a midrange modern GPU][6]. Where you are comfortable in that gradient of performance is largely up to personal taste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=phenom%20hex%20core&amp;_sop=15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=393&amp;cmp%5B%5D=1781&amp;cmp%5B%5D=793&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gigabyte.in/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3645&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X6%201100T%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HDE00ZFBK6DGR%20(HDE00ZFBGRBOX).html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X4%20965%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HDZ965FBK4DGI%20(HDZ965FBGIBOX).html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://youtu.be/8LVYgtGW32k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13605" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1451" RevisionGUID="a2e84ddb-122d-4637-a4a6-fccfa104ac50" CreationDate="2016-07-27T22:13:27.390" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; inline links" Text="After seeing @Alpha3031's comment, I checked the Gigabyte site.  v3.1 of the board is AM3+, v1.3 is AM3 with this additional note: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If you install AMD AM3 CPU on this motherboard, the system bus speed&#xD;&#xA;&gt; will downgrade from HT3.0 (5200MT/s) to HT1.0 (2000 MT/s) spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabyte's product pages for the two versions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [GA-M68MT-S2 (rev. 1.3)](http://www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3645)&#xD;&#xA;- [GA-M68MT-S2 (rev. 3.1)](http://www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3967)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried plugging the model number into pcpartpicker.com and got some interesting results...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gam68mts2&#xD;&#xA;- http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gam68mts2p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The listing for both - up to a 980 GPU and up to an 8-core, 3.1ghz CPU (AMD FX-8120) .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems both will accept your hexacore as well.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the average game still hasnt figured out how to use 4 cores, I'd stick to the hexacore, and just find the baddest GPU/16+GB RAM/250+GB SSD you can afford.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as bottleneck, with the AM3 version, that will definitely be your bottleneck, AM3+ maybe not as much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="f5fddf55-a70b-47ca-9c57-52d057660b03" CreationDate="2016-07-27T22:54:58.673" UserId="2159" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Aug 13, 2015 2:38 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Further checking, this is a known issue with Windows* 10 and it is not an Intel driver issue. We are working with Microsoft* and Asrock* to resolve this issue. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Sep 7, 2015 1:28 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good day. We received feedback that creating Intel® ANS teams and VLANs on Microsoft* Windows* 10 is currently not supported.  We expect that ANS will be supported on Microsoft* Windows* 10 client in a future release. In case you need teaming feature, you may try revert back to previous OS which can support the teaming. Apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Jan 4, 2016 9:44 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are blocking issues within the OS that prevents the teaming from working correctly.  We are working with MS on the issue.  Once the OS releases a patch to correct the blocking issue we can release drivers that support the teaming features.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to contact MS and ask when their OS will support teaming again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Mar 15, 2016 1:46 PM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bit of real-time data.  We are testing the latest Hotfixes from MS (one for Win10 TH2 and one for Win10 RTM) and are seeing very promising results that the issue appears to fix the Teaming/VLAN issues.  However, until run a full test pass through our SW teams we won't know if fixing this one issue has introduced new issues.  Only a full test pass can reveal theses potentially hidden bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently this is only an issue with the client-based Windows operating systems (including Windows 10).  Windows Server 2012 works, for example - as also detailed at https://community.mellanox.com/docs/DOC-1845.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="69a7cfd1-5137-4c02-ac0a-c5eb2e29be19" CreationDate="2016-07-27T23:08:31.793" UserId="2159" Comment="Notating link rot." Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Aug 13, 2015 2:38 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Further checking, this is a known issue with Windows* 10 and it is not an Intel driver issue. We are working with Microsoft* and Asrock* to resolve this issue. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;wb_Intel Sep 7, 2015 1:28 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good day. We received feedback that creating Intel® ANS teams and VLANs on Microsoft* Windows* 10 is currently not supported.  We expect that ANS will be supported on Microsoft* Windows* 10 client in a future release. In case you need teaming feature, you may try revert back to previous OS which can support the teaming. Apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Jan 4, 2016 9:44 AM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are blocking issues within the OS that prevents the teaming from working correctly.  We are working with MS on the issue.  Once the OS releases a patch to correct the blocking issue we can release drivers that support the teaming features.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to contact MS and ask when their OS will support teaming again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    - &lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carl_Wilson Mar 15, 2016 1:46 PM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bit of real-time data.  We are testing the latest Hotfixes from MS (one for Win10 TH2 and one for Win10 RTM) and are seeing very promising results that the issue appears to fix the Teaming/VLAN issues.  However, until run a full test pass through our SW teams we won't know if fixing this one issue has introduced new issues.  Only a full test pass can reveal theses potentially hidden bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently this is only an issue with the client-based Windows operating systems (including Windows 10).  Windows Server 2012 works, for example - as also detailed at https://community.mellanox.com/docs/DOC-1845.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4317" RevisionGUID="72cc2e1c-4ceb-4836-bb3f-786b443bddc7" CreationDate="2016-07-28T01:54:06.913" UserId="3836" Comment="Named the product explicitly inline." Text="You can buy used. For example, [This][1] - HP DC7800 Ultra Small Form Factor Desktop Computer (Refurbished) - is an extremely cheap x86 platform that does actually have some upgrade potential. It costs $50, but is more powerful than some SBC options and certainly more configurable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is the cheapest such machine I am aware of from large suppliers online. You may be able to source considerably better machines locally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7RB3E95983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13609" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="d175348c-0226-4c6f-afd1-4e054fe18247" CreationDate="2016-07-28T03:47:14.833" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13612" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1425" RevisionGUID="5d3c9e31-4d02-453b-ba8c-1d39e1d041e2" CreationDate="2016-07-28T05:04:15.340" UserId="1120" Comment="Minor grammar fixes" Text="I've recently acquired a [GA-M68MT-S2][1] motherboard, which was lying unused with a friend. Just as a project, I want try and build the most powerful system possible using this as a base. This is only a hobby project, so suggestions to upgrade the board and overall system isn't what I'm looking for. I'll probably just experiment to see what games I can run at max or high settings. I'll be using Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to know is: What's the highest CPU and GPU this can take? I believe the Phenom II x6 (Socket AM3) is supported. What GPU will not be bottle necked by this relatively old base config? Since the on-board GPU is an NVIDIA® GeForce 7025/nForce 630a chipset, can I go for an 8- or 9- series? Is a Radeon a better choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been a PC gamer for over a decade, but I'm keen on getting back into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.in/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="7a48d75e-abd3-4872-b17f-bd7ed28d6c61" CreationDate="2016-07-28T08:34:19.930" UserId="1190" Text="We're developing devices that shall support 802.1X authentication. For testing purposes, we need to connect a few of them to a switch / router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* &quot;usual&quot; WLAN (802.11b/g/n)&#xD;&#xA;* 7 100 MBit Ethernet ports + 1 Uplink port&#xD;&#xA;* Management of at least 12 devices possible&#xD;&#xA;* support for username + passwort authentication&#xD;&#xA;* support for certificate authentication&#xD;&#xA;* cost max. 1500 €&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I found a [Lancom WLC-4006+](https://www.lancom-systems.de/en/products/wireless-lan/controller/lancom-wlc-4006plus/lancom-wlc-4006plus-overview/), but it has 4+1 Ethernet ports only." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="7a48d75e-abd3-4872-b17f-bd7ed28d6c61" CreationDate="2016-07-28T08:34:19.930" UserId="1190" Text="WLAN router for 802.1X (RADIUS) testing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="7a48d75e-abd3-4872-b17f-bd7ed28d6c61" CreationDate="2016-07-28T08:34:19.930" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="ae98d5b6-19ad-42a0-9e1a-be2d42abaa9f" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:34:28.293" UserId="4055" Text="Essentially, I'm looking to purchase a Yubi Key as I would like to limit the number of times I have to enter my password at home and at work. I also want to set up some applications which two factor authentication and sometimes do not carry my phone or other devices, but I always have my keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the differences and I cannot see/understand what differences there is, especially for the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, the YUBIKEY 4 comes it at roughly $40. Whereas the FIDO U2F Key comes it at $18.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for what I want to do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Limit re-typing password&#xD;&#xA; - Two Step factor&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe Near Field Communication&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that the NFC would be good if I had my phone, for example I could just press the key against it. But I have the mail app so I don't see this being a major issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could I therefore buy the $18 U2F key to meet my needs?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13620" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="ae98d5b6-19ad-42a0-9e1a-be2d42abaa9f" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:34:28.293" UserId="4055" Text="Yuki Key recommendations for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13621" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="ae98d5b6-19ad-42a0-9e1a-be2d42abaa9f" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:34:28.293" UserId="4055" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4342" RevisionGUID="be969559-1f96-4693-ae9d-7238e0d07b54" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:06:10.417" UserId="3836" Text="One cheap option would be the **D-Link DIR-632**. It supports all of the above requirements, save perhaps &quot;management of at least 12 devices possible,&quot; using [dd-wrt firmware][1], possibly also stock firmware. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't support 12 managed devices simultaneously, so I think it is a good suggestion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is worth noting that this is in a totally different class of devices from your Lancom WLC-4006+, which is not a router or a switch but a *WLAN Controller,* which is designed to manage connections to wireless APs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resource on configuring it to [work with certificates under dd-wrt][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/D-Link_DIR-632&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://andrewbevitt.com/tutorials/dd-wrt-radius-authentication-w-server-2008-r2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4343" RevisionGUID="9e5dc844-835a-427b-92ef-062988f0057c" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:11:19.467" UserId="4057" Text="The 480 is not a bad coice for that rig especially that the pc is not meant for heavy gaming. But if you wanted a little more performance you could also go Nvidia and get the new GTX 1060 which performs just a littlebit better than the 480 or if you wanted outstanding performance for the same ~$250 price point you could also get the GTX 970 which would be a really good pair for your CPU, but keep in mind, that is now a generation behind the latest GPUs from Nvidia. Of course all of the aforesaid GPUs offer very high end performace for editing and I don't think you would regret getting either one of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4343" RevisionGUID="ef21b4ed-6d9f-414a-bc2e-5f52da07bb76" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:59:41.927" UserId="4057" Comment="spelling correction" Text="The 480 is not a bad choice for that rig especially that the pc is not meant for heavy gaming. But if you wanted a little more performance you could also go Nvidia and get the new GTX 1060 which performs just a littlebit better than the 480 or if you wanted outstanding performance for the same ~$250 price point you could also get the GTX 970 which would be a really good pair for your CPU, but keep in mind, that is now a generation behind the latest GPUs from Nvidia. Of course all of the aforesaid GPUs offer very high end performace for editing and I don't think you would regret getting either one of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13638" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="fc71757f-dea5-4893-aa89-b2ba87a19c1c" CreationDate="2016-07-28T16:56:46.173" UserId="155" Comment="corrected title" Text="Yubi Key recommendations for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="85ed1522-86b1-439b-9a2e-ebe6df0d1c2a" CreationDate="2016-07-28T18:11:58.897" UserId="704" Text="I'm looking for recommendations on NAS for home / small office. Main purpose - storage of digital data (documents, photos, movies). Must to have RAID 1 capabilities. Can be enclosure only. Direct connection (access from a smartphone without connection via computer) will be a big plus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13640" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="85ed1522-86b1-439b-9a2e-ebe6df0d1c2a" CreationDate="2016-07-28T18:11:58.897" UserId="704" Text="NAS for home/small office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13641" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="85ed1522-86b1-439b-9a2e-ebe6df0d1c2a" CreationDate="2016-07-28T18:11:58.897" UserId="704" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="7f9e9628-8d44-41b9-b189-52e18d02aea1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T19:41:20.407" UserId="704" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for recommendations on NAS for home / small office. Main purpose - storage of digital data (documents, photos, movies). Must to have RAID 1 capabilities. Can be enclosure only. Direct connection (access from a smartphone without connection via computer) will be a big plus. Min capacity 1TB (or diskless system). Budget in a range between $150-$250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13643" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="c2130f8c-5188-4204-a196-82aa9b0e298d" CreationDate="2016-07-28T20:44:59.703" UserId="704" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for recommendations on NAS for home / small office. Main purpose - storage of digital data (documents, photos, movies). Must to have RAID 1 capabilities. Can be enclosure only. Direct connection (access from a smartphone without connection via computer) will be a big plus. Min capacity 1TB (or diskless system) and 2 bays. Budget in a range between $150-$250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4349" RevisionGUID="17db9a90-619f-483f-86f9-03c2b9a6449a" CreationDate="2016-07-28T21:58:55.250" UserDisplayName="user588" Text="I would recommend you take a look at Synology.&#xD;&#xA;I have a DS216+ and im very happy with it. Its a bit over your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have a &quot;j&quot; version thats $160 here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Synology-DS216j-NAS-DiskStation/dp/B01BNPT1EG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469742885&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=synology+ds216&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and &quot;se&quot; thats even cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should be able to do everything you need.&#xD;&#xA;If you do install Plex on it, im not sure what performance you will get, because i have the &quot;+&quot; model its a bit more powerful. (you will be able to stream for sure, im not sure about transcoding) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;more specs here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS216j&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS216se" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4352" RevisionGUID="3144f838-9b7b-41a5-8f98-720b7454286c" CreationDate="2016-07-29T08:07:48.310" UserId="4064" Text="we have two computers to be connected to a KVM switch and from there to a touch screen. We want users to be able to switch between computers only by using touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So. Is there a KVM switch, where we could trigger a switch to another computer from an application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are switches, where you have to use hardware buttons in order to switch. These are not acceptable for us. Then there are switches where some keyboard combinations (e.g. Ctrl-F1, Ctrl-F1) allow to switch between computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need the third kind of KVM switch, where the switching could be done from the application. The switches that do switching with the keyboard cannot be used for that purpose. First, the switch intercepts the keyboard combination to make a switch before that combination reaches the computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect it would be very difficult to find such piece of hardware. Just imagine you have two computers connected to such a switch both demanding an active connection because of malfunctioning application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find something like this with no luck. The problem is we have user requirements asking exactly for such a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any idea if something like that is available anywhere?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4352" RevisionGUID="3144f838-9b7b-41a5-8f98-720b7454286c" CreationDate="2016-07-29T08:07:48.310" UserId="4064" Text="Special needs for KVM switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4352" RevisionGUID="3144f838-9b7b-41a5-8f98-720b7454286c" CreationDate="2016-07-29T08:07:48.310" UserId="4064" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4352" RevisionGUID="3a6d09cf-69e6-472d-8ea4-cd0653fbb9ae" CreationDate="2016-07-29T08:42:28.617" UserId="4064" Comment="edited body" Text="We have two computers to be connected to a KVM switch and from there to a touch screen. We want users to be able to switch between computers only by using touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So. Is there a KVM switch, where we could trigger a switch to another computer from an application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are switches, where you have to use hardware buttons in order to switch. These are not acceptable for us. Then there are switches where some keyboard combinations (e.g. Ctrl-F1, Ctrl-F1) allow to switch between computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need the third kind of KVM switch, where the switching could be done from the application. The switches that do switching with the keyboard cannot be used for that purpose. First, the switch intercepts the keyboard combination to make a switch before that combination reaches the computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect it would be very difficult to find such piece of hardware. Just imagine you have two computers connected to such a switch both demanding an active connection because of malfunctioning application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find something like this with no luck. The problem is we have user requirements asking exactly for such a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any idea if something like that is available anywhere?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4353" RevisionGUID="d1509709-70e5-4607-93c8-b4b07e293e9f" CreationDate="2016-07-29T11:41:07.457" UserId="135" Text="Do you know of any big brand graphics card that is PCI and win 10 compatible, so with DirectX 9 or later and WDDM 1.0 driver?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's for an old computer with an AGP 3.3v slot, and a PCI slot. I'm looking for a PCI card rather than an AGP 3.3v one, as I guess PCI is a bit less difficult to find. though any comment with an AGP one is fine.. maybe i'll make AGP 3.3v a separate question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13660" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4353" RevisionGUID="d1509709-70e5-4607-93c8-b4b07e293e9f" CreationDate="2016-07-29T11:41:07.457" UserId="135" Text="big brand PCI graphics card win 10 compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13661" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4353" RevisionGUID="d1509709-70e5-4607-93c8-b4b07e293e9f" CreationDate="2016-07-29T11:41:07.457" UserId="135" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4354" RevisionGUID="f2ea9acf-ed45-4be1-a26f-9c34a5aea4ba" CreationDate="2016-07-29T12:04:46.167" UserId="586" Text="Anything you find for PCI would probably be for dedicated servers, and thus would not have any 3D acceleration capabilities. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with PCI (non-Express) is that the bus simply does not have the throughput and latency required to render graphics at modern resolutions with modern techniques (window compositing, OpenGL / DirectX accelerated font and canvas rendering, etc.) so anything you find for PCI is going to be so slow and so old that you will get a &quot;software only&quot;, Microsoft Basic Graphics (&quot;VESA&quot;) driver on Windows 10. This is not a recipe for a good experience. Direct3D and OpenGL, if they run at all, will be unusably slow on this software-only driver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I therefore suggest you go with AGP. Pretty much the highest-end proper GPU (with 3d acceleration capabilities, DirectX 9.0c, etc.) with an AGP connector is the Nvidia 6800GT / 6800 Ultra series. This card was manufactured til 2007 or so as I recall (released in 2005?), and there are plenty of working specimens available (new or used) in the aftermarket. You will not be able to buy a brand new one direct from major vendors like Amazon though; it's simply too old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Luckily, Nvidia released the 309 series drivers with full support for WDDM on Windows 8, and the 6800 series cards are supported. Thus you will be able to get at least a WDDM 1.0 / 1.1 driver on this card. The Windows 10 installation may tell you that you're getting the Microsoft Basic Graphics adapter, but then you can install the R309 graphics driver installer from Nvidia and it should load the Windows 8 driver on Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD (nee ATI) has a similar story with contemporaneous hardware if you prefer the red team, but I'm not sure if the drivers are even available, let alone as current as the Nvidia drivers (the R309 legacy driver was released in 2015). I recall AMD declaring that they would stop supporting old cards a long time ago. They've been in a GCN-only support mode (Radeon 7000 series and later) since about 2012-2013 IIRC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4354" RevisionGUID="ec5a4e3e-18f4-4fb8-837c-da32b744a0af" CreationDate="2016-07-29T12:15:33.563" UserId="586" Comment="added 817 characters in body" Text="Anything you find for PCI would probably be for dedicated servers, and thus would not have any 3D acceleration capabilities. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with PCI (non-Express) is that the bus simply does not have the throughput and latency required to render graphics at modern resolutions with modern techniques (window compositing, OpenGL / DirectX accelerated font and canvas rendering, etc.) so anything you find for PCI is going to be so slow and so old that you will get a &quot;software only&quot;, Microsoft Basic Graphics (&quot;VESA&quot;) driver on Windows 10. This is not a recipe for a good experience. Direct3D and OpenGL, if they run at all, will be unusably slow on this software-only driver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I therefore suggest you go with AGP. Pretty much the highest-end proper GPU (with 3d acceleration capabilities, DirectX 9.0c, etc.) with an AGP connector is the Nvidia 6800GT / 6800 Ultra series. This card was manufactured til 2007 or so as I recall (released in 2005?), and there are plenty of working specimens available (new or used) in the aftermarket. You will not be able to buy a brand new one direct from major vendors like Amazon though; it's simply too old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Luckily, Nvidia released the 309 series drivers with full support for WDDM on Windows 8, and the 6800 series cards are supported. Thus you will be able to get at least a WDDM 1.0 / 1.1 driver on this card. The Windows 10 installation may tell you that you're getting the Microsoft Basic Graphics adapter, but then you can install the R309 graphics driver installer from Nvidia and it should load the Windows 8 driver on Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD (nee ATI) has a similar story with contemporaneous hardware if you prefer the red team, but I'm not sure if the drivers are even available, let alone as current as the Nvidia drivers (the R309 legacy driver was released in 2015). I recall AMD declaring that they would stop supporting old cards a long time ago. They've been in a GCN-only support mode (Radeon 7000 series and later) since about 2012-2013 IIRC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The research I've done on AMD has indicated that the [last driver available](http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/desktop/legacy?product=Legacy1&amp;os=Windows%20Vista%20-%2064) for their most-recent AGP cards was released.... in **2010**. A full five years older than the latest driver from Nvidia for their AGP cards! It may not even be a WDDM 1.0 driver; I don't have the hardware to even try this driver to know whether it's the XP graphics driver model or the WDDM. If it's WDDM you should be able to peel off the packaging that says &quot;This OS isn't supported&quot; and force-install it on Windows 10 by directly loading the .sys files, but it may be a complicated procedure, so good luck with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In summary I wouldn't recommend AMD because their driver support for very old hardware is not as good as Nvidia's." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="9d4ed591-fd60-46ba-af2c-a7d67f82349d" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:07:11.710" UserId="4067" Text="Hoping to get some opinions/recommendations based on my current hardware setup. I've done some research, but I would like to get some feedback on my specific hardware components, and whether anything else should be upgraded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have a Radeon HD 7770 GPU (SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card) and I'm looking to upgrade. As far as price goes, I wouldn't want to go over $500. That being said, I'd also like to take advantage of my current set up as much as I can. I'm also not a stickler for graphics (I don't need the best of the best), just want the latest games (i.e. Gears of War 4 or Doom) to run smoothly and look decent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the other pertinent hardware info (currently running Windows 7):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX + SB950 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113286&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory&#xD;&#xA;16 GB (2x8) DDR3 (Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817154026&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for constructive replies!&#xD;&#xA;(Sorry for the lack of links, my rep isn't high enough yet and I thought CPU and PS would be most important)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13668" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="9d4ed591-fd60-46ba-af2c-a7d67f82349d" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:07:11.710" UserId="4067" Text="What's good GPU upgrade based on my current hardware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13669" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="9d4ed591-fd60-46ba-af2c-a7d67f82349d" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:07:11.710" UserId="4067" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4352" RevisionGUID="c2fbff53-4afd-4a5d-b9fc-4a69bc160156" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:08:22.930" UserId="4064" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="We have two computers to be connected to a KVM switch and from there to a touch screen. We want users to be able to switch between computers only by using touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So. Is there a KVM switch, where we could trigger a switch to another computer from an application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are switches, where you have to use hardware buttons in order to switch. These are not acceptable for us. Then there are switches where some keyboard combinations (e.g. Ctrl-F1, Ctrl-F2) allow to switch between computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We need the third kind of KVM switch, where the switching could be done from the application. The switches that do switching with the keyboard cannot be used for that purpose. The switch intercepts the keyboard combination to make a switch before that combination reaches the computer. If we would simulate keyboard events within the application, that would never get to the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect it would be very difficult to find such piece of hardware. Just imagine you have two computers connected to such a switch both demanding an active connection because of malfunctioning application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find something like this with no luck. The problem is we have user requirements asking exactly for such a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any idea if something like that is available anywhere?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4357" RevisionGUID="d113fbdc-f78b-491e-af4c-8a9f128b25fc" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:22:36.063" UserId="4071" Text="I was searching for safe headphones to limit the db level I'm exposed to all day, but every product I'm finding is designed and made for kids. I have not found a single adult headphone that doesn't pass the 85dB limit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the design on some of these kids headphone I can tell they would hurt my ears physically if they were the right size for my head. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think ideally I would have to have a device that intercepts the signal and reduces it to safe levels. Is there such a device where I can plug it into my computer's audio jack, and then plug the head phones to that. A nice feature would be to have a lcd readout of the decibel levels. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, would it be hard to create one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13672" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4357" RevisionGUID="d113fbdc-f78b-491e-af4c-8a9f128b25fc" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:22:36.063" UserId="4071" Text="Limit dB in headphones using an external device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13673" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4357" RevisionGUID="d113fbdc-f78b-491e-af4c-8a9f128b25fc" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:22:36.063" UserId="4071" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="43ad6e8d-301c-4733-9e58-97e3f288d579" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:31:07.287" UserId="436" Text="This Wikipedia [page][1] mentions about Intel SDKs; single board computers that contained Intel microprocessors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to own one of those SDKs but I doubt that they are still in production. So, I am looking for something similar to Intel SDKs. The kit must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Feature a microprocessor. Not a microcontroller.&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably contains an x86 microprocessor. But this is not a must.&#xD;&#xA; - The less integrated functionality, the better. (I.e, it is better to have discrete components for various functionality than to have a single component that does everything)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_System_Development_Kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13675" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="43ad6e8d-301c-4733-9e58-97e3f288d579" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:31:07.287" UserId="436" Text="Small scale integration single board computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13676" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="43ad6e8d-301c-4733-9e58-97e3f288d579" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:31:07.287" UserId="436" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="08ce9634-58e4-4371-a3b3-2e32c28d49d5" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:55:03.940" UserId="4072" Text="I'm running into issues with my current laptop (an old Macbook Pro Retina) while trying to screen record graphic design tutorials so its time for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do much video work beyond the screen recording but might want to and even Photoshop and Illustrator now has some features that utilizes the GPU so a discreet graphics card is preferred. I have a Wacom Intuos Pro that I always use when I'm at home and sometimes travel with. I'm in the market and was going to buy a new monitor for myself but its on the back burner for the moment. Probably later this year or by April of next year (Tax Return) I'll be getting a new monitor for myself to use when at home with a Wide Gamut Color Accurate Display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main concerns are color accuracy, brightness, contrast, and enough specs to screen record tutorials on. Since I don't currently own a tablet I decided a 2 in 1 would be really nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using it for Digital Painting, Retouching, Sketching, Tethered Photography.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My research:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo Yoga P40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: nVidia graphics card, good price, Wacom AES.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: I've not been able to get an answer from Lenovo regarding colors. What little I could find has said it only covers about 65% of the sRGB spectrum though I've seen other reports claiming 75% and still some saying 95%. I don't know what's accurate. Also the Graphics Card included is not one listed on the Adobe website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo X1 Yoga**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: Good price, Wacom AES, OLED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: Integrated graphics and again not sure about how much of the spectrum it covers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Microsoft Surface Book**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: PixelSense Display, nVidia Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: for i7 much more expensive than Lenovo, n-Trig instead of Wacom, not a lot of information on what that nVidia graphics card actually is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What 2 in 1 might you recommend? One of the above? Something I missed? Also if anyone knows any model at all that has Wacom AES that stores display I'd love to hear - the X1 and P40 are too high end for retailers so I have no way to feel them first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13678" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="08ce9634-58e4-4371-a3b3-2e32c28d49d5" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:55:03.940" UserId="4072" Text="What 2-in-1 is suited for high level graphic designers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13679" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="08ce9634-58e4-4371-a3b3-2e32c28d49d5" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:55:03.940" UserId="4072" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="3e93dc0a-fb8f-4ed5-9ce7-2130c170ceab" CreationDate="2016-07-29T16:06:29.547" UserId="4072" Comment="added 212 characters in body" Text="I'm running into issues with my current laptop (an old Macbook Pro Retina) while trying to screen record graphic design tutorials so its time for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do much video work beyond the screen recording but might want to and even Photoshop and Illustrator now has some features that utilizes the GPU so a discreet graphics card is preferred. I have a Wacom Intuos Pro that I always use when I'm at home and sometimes travel with. I'm in the market and was going to buy a new monitor for myself but its on the back burner for the moment. Probably later this year or by April of next year (Tax Return) I'll be getting a new monitor for myself to use when at home with a Wide Gamut Color Accurate Display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main concerns are color accuracy, brightness, contrast, and enough specs to screen record tutorials on. Since I don't currently own a tablet I decided a 2 in 1 would be really nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using it for Digital Painting, Retouching, Sketching, Tethered Photography. At home I can still plug it into my Intuos Pro if need be and once I get the monitor I'd plug it into that as well when at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My research:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo Yoga P40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: nVidia graphics card, good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: I've not been able to get an answer from Lenovo regarding colors. What little I could find has said it only covers about 65% of the sRGB spectrum though I've seen other reports claiming 75% and still some saying 95%. I don't know what's accurate. Also the Graphics Card included is not one listed on the Adobe website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo X1 Yoga**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: Good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels, OLED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: Integrated graphics and again not sure about how much of the spectrum it covers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Microsoft Surface Book**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: PixelSense Display, nVidia Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: for i7 much more expensive than Lenovo, n-Trig instead of Wacom with only 1024 pressure levels, not a lot of information on what that nVidia graphics card actually is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What 2 in 1 might you recommend? One of the above? Something I missed? Also if anyone knows any model at all that has Wacom AES that stores display I'd love to hear - the X1 and P40 are too high end for retailers so I have no way to feel them first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13682" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="a600f359-bdc3-43ed-81f6-e367871dd884" CreationDate="2016-07-29T18:39:38.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="13683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4360" RevisionGUID="4196615a-fa95-4088-bab6-52a56eb9c2e0" CreationDate="2016-07-29T18:50:44.040" UserId="3836" Text="You're talking about the [Edison][1]. It is an Intel SBC with most functionality offloaded to breakout boards connecting to the Edison via a bus on its underside. Has a dual core 500mhz Atom processor by Intel onboard which is x86.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AFAIK they are still in production. The breakout board will probably cost you more than the SBC, though.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Edison-Compute-Antenna-EDI2-SPON-AL-S/dp/B00PTVSS4A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469818127&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=intel%20edison" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4357" RevisionGUID="4258f825-8e3d-4db0-8536-0e70aec86704" CreationDate="2016-07-29T19:18:56.840" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 44 characters in body" Text="I was searching for safe headphones to limit the db level I'm exposed to all day, but every product I'm finding is designed and made for kids. I have not found a single adult headphone that doesn't pass the 85dB limit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the design on some of these kids headphone I can tell they would hurt my ears physically if they were the right size for my head. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think ideally I would have to have a device that intercepts the signal and reduces it to safe levels. Is there such a device where I can plug it into my computer's audio jack, and then plug the head phones to that. A nice feature would be to have a lcd readout of the decibel levels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4361" RevisionGUID="42d19081-6de8-4218-a206-b9affc5895bd" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:18:58.430" UserId="3836" Text="I'm going to recommend the **Lenovo Yoga P40**. After looking at some other stuff from Dell that also offers wacom-style input, I was unable to really get a feel for whether or not certain models supported wacom input or not, so I can't recommend them. Some users appear to have gotten excellent results out of ~800 machines from Dell, but again - I can't be certain which exact model to recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Yoga is the only reasonably priced, reasonably powerful option on your list. It will be a very powerful machine, is upgradeable, and does satisfy the wacom requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally if I were you, I'd get a cheap tablet with wacom support and use a remote desktop program like Splashtop to access a powerful home desktop that would be many times faster than anything listed here for about $600-700. The two  device combo would be more flexible and less expensive than this single laptop will be, but of course you'd have to have good wifi to make use of it at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other advice I can offer is to look into OBS when recording with your Lenovo. It can use the Nvidia encoder built into the M500M to make streaming a breeze.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4361" RevisionGUID="2109f986-5ced-432b-aba4-28aec4e2ff6f" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:28:39.340" UserId="3836" Comment="added 188 characters in body" Text="I'm going to recommend the **Lenovo Yoga P40**. After looking at some other stuff from Dell that also offers wacom-style input, I was unable to really get a feel for whether or not certain models supported wacom input or not, so I can't recommend them. Some users appear to have gotten excellent results out of ~800 machines from Dell, but again - I can't be certain which exact model to recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Yoga is the only reasonably priced, reasonably powerful option on your list. It will be a very powerful machine, is upgradeable, and does satisfy the wacom requirement. While its GPU may not yet be listed by Adobe, I have good confidence that it will work well with Adobe, since it is a professional-tier chip. The color issue I was also unable to resolve.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally if I were you, I'd get a cheap tablet with wacom support and use a remote desktop program like Splashtop to access a powerful home desktop that would be many times faster than anything listed here for about $600-700. The two  device combo would be more flexible and less expensive than this single laptop will be, but of course you'd have to have good wifi to make use of it at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other advice I can offer is to look into OBS when recording with your Lenovo. It can use the Nvidia encoder built into the M500M to make streaming a breeze.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4362" RevisionGUID="b8935cc4-fed1-4649-baef-1343a097ae66" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:45:15.080" UserId="273" Text="OK, to give you a solid understanding of which Yubikey you _need_ you first need to understand what each single one can offer you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In principle, there are three &quot;levels&quot; of functionality regarding the Yubikeys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Level 1: U2F##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All Yubikeys offer support for the U2F authentication protocol which was originally designed as a secure, anonymous second factor authentication protocol, which is deployed among others with Google, Dropbox and GitHub. Usually (I don't own one, so I can't say 100% for sure), this won't save you from entering any passwords, because it's usually only employed as second defence, especially against phishing attacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Level 2: OpenPGP and FIPS 201##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This feature set is offered by the Yubikey Neo and the Yubikey 4. It includes integration into PGP based email encryption and signature services such as GPG and allows you to &quot;enforce&quot; hardware access for email signature / decryption.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore they implement the FIPS 201 standard, which means you can also use your Yubikey for encryption, authentication and signature - also using the PKCS#11 library OpenSC - possibly even for windows log-in. However chances are that only very few webservices will make use of such certificate based authentication because it brings a lot of other cost with it, and you'd probably still have to authenticate to the token with a PIN or something...&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between the Yubikey 4 and the Neo is that the 4 supports stronger crypto algorithms than the Neo (although the Neos are nowhere near broken).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Level 3: NFC##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This feature is only offered by the (somewhat dated) Yubikey Neo and thus this is the only one being compatible with phones. So if you need your yubikey on your phone, you _have_ to pick up the Neo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TL;DR: If you're not interested in fancy crypto features and don't _need_ NFC the cheapest yubikey will probably serve you best, and if you want hardware-backed email encryption and similar applications the more expensive ones are at least worth a look.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="ba76ed71-7743-489c-aead-2b6ce6106a55" CreationDate="2016-07-30T00:53:33.733" UserId="4076" Text="I'm looking for a decent laptop on which I can also play...I'm not really interested in super high graphics...but I would like to be able to play the latest games at 720p resolution with medium/high-ish settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I found this [Medion Erazer P6661][1] which has pretty good specs, and is just at my budget limit, but I have been reading online about people having issues on Medion laptops and about them being build with cheap materials, and I myself have had a bad time on a Medion laptop, even though it was a really cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, here's my question: ...is this laptop worth my money? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Sorry about my english, I'm actually Italian!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/Medion-P6661-Notebook-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B01GYZXS3K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469837099&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Medion%20P6661" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="ba76ed71-7743-489c-aead-2b6ce6106a55" CreationDate="2016-07-30T00:53:33.733" UserId="4076" Text="is the &quot;Medion Erazer P6661&quot; a good casual gaming laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="ba76ed71-7743-489c-aead-2b6ce6106a55" CreationDate="2016-07-30T00:53:33.733" UserId="4076" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13699" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="bb6ba628-75ba-4942-87b8-cac8a6f6ed4d" CreationDate="2016-07-30T09:43:18.217" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="9b29f912-c1dd-4646-9d4e-e950ccc0105b" CreationDate="2016-07-30T09:43:40.140" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 51 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a decent laptop on which I can also play...I'm not really interested in super high graphics...but I would like to be able to play the latest games at 720p resolution with medium/high-ish settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I found this [Medion Erazer P6661][1] which has pretty good specs, and is just at my budget limit, but I have been reading online about people having issues on Medion laptops and about them being build with cheap materials, and I myself have had a bad time on a Medion laptop, even though it was a really cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, here's my question: ...is this laptop worth my money? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/Medion-P6661-Notebook-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B01GYZXS3K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469837099&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Medion%20P6661" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="f752a0aa-3eae-4d95-ac74-2acc318cd73d" CreationDate="2016-07-30T12:44:29.763" UserId="4076" Comment="added 87 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a decent laptop on which I can also play...I'm not really interested in super high graphics...but I would like to be able to play the latest games at 720p resolution with medium/high-ish settings. My budget is of 700 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I found this [Medion Erazer P6661][1] which has pretty good specs, and is just at my budget limit, but I have been reading online about people having issues on Medion laptops and about them being build with cheap materials, and I myself have had a bad time on a Medion laptop, even though it was a really cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, here's my question: ...is this laptop worth my money? And if not, what other laptops should I consider for that price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/Medion-P6661-Notebook-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B01GYZXS3K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469837099&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Medion%20P6661" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13703" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="f752a0aa-3eae-4d95-ac74-2acc318cd73d" CreationDate="2016-07-30T12:44:29.763" UserId="4076" Comment="added 87 characters in body; edited title" Text="Good casual gaming laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13704" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="a83896de-ef94-4f76-bac9-36c37225ecf6" CreationDate="2016-07-30T12:49:11.157" UserId="4072" Comment="added 173 characters in body" Text="I'm running into issues with my current laptop (an old Macbook Pro Retina) while trying to screen record graphic design tutorials so its time for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do much video work beyond the screen recording but might want to and even Photoshop and Illustrator now has some features that utilizes the GPU so a discreet graphics card is preferred. I have a Wacom Intuos Pro that I always use when I'm at home and sometimes travel with. I'm in the market and was going to buy a new monitor for myself but its on the back burner for the moment. Probably later this year or by April of next year (Tax Return) I'll be getting a new monitor for myself to use when at home with a Wide Gamut Color Accurate Display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main concerns are color accuracy, brightness, contrast, and enough specs to screen record tutorials on. Since I don't currently own a tablet I decided a 2 in 1 would be really nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using it for Digital Painting, Retouching, Sketching, Tethered Photography. At home I can still plug it into my Intuos Pro if need be and once I get the monitor I'd plug it into that as well when at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My research:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo Yoga P40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: nVidia graphics card, good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: I've not been able to get an answer from Lenovo regarding colors. What little I could find has said it only covers about 65% of the sRGB spectrum though I've seen other reports claiming 75% and still some saying 95%. I don't know what's accurate. Also the Graphics Card included is not one listed on the Adobe website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo X1 Yoga**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: Good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels, OLED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: Integrated graphics and again not sure about how much of the spectrum it covers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Microsoft Surface Book**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: PixelSense Display, nVidia Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: for i7 much more expensive than Lenovo, n-Trig instead of Wacom with only 1024 pressure levels, not a lot of information on what that nVidia graphics card actually is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What 2 in 1 might you recommend? One of the above? Something I missed? Also if anyone knows any model at all that has Wacom AES that stores display I'd love to hear - the X1 and P40 are too high end for retailers so I have no way to feel them first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update: It seems I wasn't clear in my original post. I travel, a lot. I'm gone for weeks at a time and want a mobile solution so I can be gone even more of the year.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13705" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4359" RevisionGUID="fffeb0a8-d8c3-448c-b519-c694ac9f0a04" CreationDate="2016-07-30T13:13:36.273" UserId="4072" Comment="added 313 characters in body" Text="I'm running into issues with my current laptop (an old Macbook Pro Retina) while trying to screen record graphic design tutorials so its time for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do much video work beyond the screen recording but might want to and even Photoshop and Illustrator now has some features that utilizes the GPU so a discreet graphics card is preferred. I have a Wacom Intuos Pro that I always use when I'm at home and sometimes travel with. I'm in the market and was going to buy a new monitor for myself but its on the back burner for the moment. Probably later this year or by April of next year (Tax Return) I'll be getting a new monitor for myself to use when at home with a Wide Gamut Color Accurate Display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main concerns are color accuracy, brightness, contrast, and enough specs to screen record tutorials on. Since I don't currently own a tablet I decided a 2 in 1 would be really nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using it for Digital Painting, Retouching, Sketching, Tethered Photography. At home I can still plug it into my Intuos Pro if need be and once I get the monitor I'd plug it into that as well when at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My research:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo Yoga P40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: nVidia graphics card, good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: I've not been able to get an answer from Lenovo regarding colors. What little I could find has said it only covers about 65% of the sRGB spectrum though I've seen other reports claiming 75% and still some saying 95%. I don't know what's accurate. Also the Graphics Card included is not one listed on the Adobe website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo X1 Yoga**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: Good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels, OLED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: Integrated graphics and again not sure about how much of the spectrum it covers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Microsoft Surface Book**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: PixelSense Display, nVidia Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: for i7 much more expensive than Lenovo, n-Trig instead of Wacom with only 1024 pressure levels, not a lot of information on what that nVidia graphics card actually is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What 2 in 1 might you recommend? One of the above? Something I missed?&#xD;&#xA;Also if anyone knows any model at all that has Wacom AES that stores display I'd love to hear - the X1 and P40 are too high end for retailers so I have no way to feel them first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:** I wasn't clear in my original post. I travel, a lot. I'm gone for weeks at a time and want a mobile solution so I can be gone even more of the year. This has me in places with little to no internet frequently. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems people also are trying to just give me the cheapest option. Money isn't my biggest concern. Convenience however is a big one so please don't say, well if money is no option buy a desktop, a Cintiq, and a laptop. I'm looking for a single device that can fit the vast majority of my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary concerns with the aforementioned is I don't know their displays or graphics cards at all. The M500M for example in the Lenovo P40 Yoga seems to be a lower level nVidia card and its not on the Adobe website so I don't know if it will meet my expectations or if I'm wasting money. Likewise the nVidia in the Surface Book is a custom nVidia that I can't find any information out about." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13706" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4361" RevisionGUID="cdb9a70b-56d2-44fd-8958-cc9b34b2b800" CreationDate="2016-07-30T17:14:46.267" UserId="3836" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I'm going to recommend the **Lenovo Yoga P40**. After looking at some other stuff from Dell that also offers wacom-style input, I was unable to really get a feel for whether or not certain models supported wacom input or not, so I can't recommend them. Some users appear to have gotten excellent results out of ~800 machines from Dell, but again - I can't be certain which exact model to recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Yoga is the only reasonably priced, reasonably powerful option on your list. It will be a very powerful machine, is upgradeable, and does satisfy the wacom requirement. While its GPU may not yet be listed by Adobe, I have good confidence that it will work well with Adobe, since it is a professional-tier chip. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The M500M is a mobile chip, so of course it doesn't have all the power you might expect from a standard desktop solution, but it is a midrange professional card and would represent a big step up from your current i5 integrated graphics. Here's how it compares to the primary graphics solutions in your other two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;*The 940M represents the approximate GPU of the Surface Book [as evaluated by Cnet][2]*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The color issue I was also unable to resolve.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other advice I can offer is to look into OBS when recording with your Lenovo. It can use the Nvidia encoder built into the M500M to make streaming a breeze.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/YyZzy.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cnet.com/news/gaming-on-the-surface-book-what-you-need-to-know/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="b99dc02f-6e41-4b6d-bebc-75f3c151dffb" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:23:16.793" UserId="4080" Text="I am using Keras with Theano backend. Until now I have used aws ec2 GPU instances for train my keras network. As my experiments become larger - my network trains become longer and my bills become bigger. I calculated that good workstation would be a better investment then renting aws ec2 GPU instances on the cloud. I am copying components of NVIDIA DIGITS DevBox (https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox), except there are new GPUs on the market, so I have couple of question about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you rather buy four GTX 1080 or dual Titan X Pascal (specs - http://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-pascal-unleashed/)? Four GTX 1080s give me 10240 CUDA cores with boost speed @1733mhz, 32GB of GDDR5X VRAM and 36 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute. For the same price dual TITAN X Pascal will give me 7168 CUDA cores boost clock @ 1530mhz, 24 VRAM GDDR5X, and 22 TFLOPs of FP32Compute.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan of using multiple GPUs is train same model with different parameters on different GPUs, to see which combination of parameters is most effective. Is it possible to train one giant net on multiple GPUs, and if so what is the speedup on multiple GPUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your answers, and I hoping for good discussion. Sorry if bad english. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13708" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="b99dc02f-6e41-4b6d-bebc-75f3c151dffb" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:23:16.793" UserId="4080" Text="Deep Learning workstation advice" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13709" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="b99dc02f-6e41-4b6d-bebc-75f3c151dffb" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:23:16.793" UserId="4080" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13710" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="cf589351-094c-4dff-887b-509b00445118" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:45:00.103" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13714" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4296" RevisionGUID="f3846eeb-1c2e-4263-af77-06e4a36a3c94" CreationDate="2016-07-31T02:26:11.367" UserId="40" Comment="added 208 characters in body" Text="Nvidia [announced on 2016-07-21](http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/07/gtx-titan-x-pascal-specs-price-release-date/) the new GTX Titan X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under 1200 USD&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Potentially 24% faster than GTX 1080; 60% faster than the old Titan X.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 11 teraflops of FP32 performance&#xD;&#xA;- 12GB of GDDR5X memory running at an effective 10GHz and attached to a wide 382-bit bus, resulting in a 480GB/s of memory bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A first [benchmark](http://videocardz.com/62723/first-synthetic-benchmarks-of-geforce-gtx-titan-x-pascal-hit-the-web) (unfortunately they didn't keep the same CuDNN…):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/XhMo0.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4367" RevisionGUID="13da6ad7-d8d5-4309-b345-90a0e552fd84" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:13:01.320" UserId="4079" Text="Modern retail processors are all multi-cored, so my question `suppose a multi-core CPU.`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since many tasks are hard or even impossible to be executed in parallelism, I wonder in daily use like watching movie, word processing and browsing (except some extreme situations), the performance of single thread is more important (it shouldn't be a problem for multi tasks as there are at least two cores)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, I guess it's smart to buy Intel Core i3-6320 than i5-6500 for daily using, as the single thread score of i3-6320 is higher than i5-6500 according to [PASSMARK][1]. However, you may not tell the difference when in real situation as both CPUs are so fast for daily tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13719" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4367" RevisionGUID="13da6ad7-d8d5-4309-b345-90a0e552fd84" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:13:01.320" UserId="4079" Text="Is single thread performance of a CPU more important than overall performance for daily use (watching movie, browsing, etc)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13720" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4367" RevisionGUID="13da6ad7-d8d5-4309-b345-90a0e552fd84" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:13:01.320" UserId="4079" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="ef17636a-c7d4-4f53-92c8-4d8880735b6f" CreationDate="2016-07-31T07:49:04.220" UserId="4080" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="I am using Keras with Theano backend. Until now I have used aws ec2 GPU instances for train my keras network. As my experiments become larger - my network trains become longer and my bills become bigger. I calculated that good workstation would be a better investment then renting aws ec2 GPU instances on the cloud. I am copying components of NVIDIA DIGITS DevBox (https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox), except there are new GPUs on the market, so I have couple of question about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it better, for deep learning, to buy four GTX 1080 or dual Titan X Pascal (specs - http://wccftech.com/nvidia-new-titan-x-pascal-performance/)? Four GTX 1080s give me 10240 CUDA cores with boost speed @1733mhz, 32GB of GDDR5X VRAM and 36 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute. For the same price dual TITAN X Pascal will give me 7168 CUDA cores boost clock @ 1530mhz, 24 VRAM GDDR5X, and 22 TFLOPs of FP32Compute.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan of using multiple GPUs is train same model with different parameters on different GPUs, to see which combination of parameters is most effective. Is it possible to train one giant net on multiple GPUs, and if so what is the speedup on multiple GPUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your answers, and I hoping for good discussion. Sorry if bad english. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="ca931c26-5be2-4548-aa86-1043d0c820f7" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:24:53.153" UserId="1410" Text="I am looking for a basic 'phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such things are still manufactured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life 'phones. Now they don't make 'phones (if they are even still in business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have fond memories of a small, grey, rubberized Nokia - was it an N45? - with a screen barely an inch in diagonal (just three lines of display).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need Daul SIM, Wfi, BlueTooth, GPS, colo(u)r screen, radio, not even music player; just calls &amp; texts (and those will be few, and far between).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question][1] looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIm, which I do not require&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13723" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="ca931c26-5be2-4548-aa86-1043d0c820f7" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:24:53.153" UserId="1410" Text="Where can I buy a basic non-smart monochrome phone online? (long battery life)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13724" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="ca931c26-5be2-4548-aa86-1043d0c820f7" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:24:53.153" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4369" RevisionGUID="11043afa-e18c-4992-a634-959e8a1329cf" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:25:39.267" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4370" RevisionGUID="a3f164d3-cc53-46d1-bafa-43f5c67893f1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:25:39.267" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4370" RevisionGUID="0cbe2930-81d0-4376-b1c5-1e478da6857d" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:26:41.057" UserId="1410" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="Use this tag to discuss the battery life of electronic devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13728" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4370" RevisionGUID="0cbe2930-81d0-4376-b1c5-1e478da6857d" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:26:41.057" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by -1 edit id of 492" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13729" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4370" RevisionGUID="0035369d-82a4-43a3-b3ac-9b27edf93840" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:26:41.057" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="For questions about the battery life of electronic devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4371" RevisionGUID="311fece6-4618-4723-ac01-783bf9fe0018" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:29:25.213" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4372" RevisionGUID="804e8fe7-38f7-4392-a692-5ee21e74a068" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:29:25.213" UserId="155" Text="For questions about home theater PCs that are specialized for multimedia." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13732" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4373" RevisionGUID="be253edf-22e8-4ef3-b513-800081faaab7" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:32:28.643" UserId="1410" Text="I am using the [UleFone Power][1], which is my second UleFone and I am more than happy with both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a 6,500 mAH battery and gives me up to 5 days between charges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HOWEVER, I am not a heavy data user like you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, you ought to be able to get a full day's use from it. It is reasonably priced, so well worth trying. Let us know what you think&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ulefone.com/products/power/features.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4374" RevisionGUID="6bda3f82-8b3c-4185-b131-1b11eca1b249" CreationDate="2016-07-31T09:06:03.440" UserId="4082" Text="We're looking for a notebook for my wife. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;She will use it for browsing, editing documents (text and spreadsheet) and watching videos. Nothing hard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on our requirements HP G4 with 128 GB SSD seems to be a good choice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only question is now CPU as we can by the same notebook with different CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HP 250 G4 with Intel Celeron N3050 for €300&#xD;&#xA;- HP 250 G4 with Intel Pentium N3700 for €360&#xD;&#xA;- HP 250 G4 with Intel Core i3 5005U for €390&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(All prices without OS, I'll buy windows 10 separately).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm open to pay more if that makes a difference, but not in case if all perform the same for the given use.  &#xD;&#xA;Which CPU should I use? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13734" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4374" RevisionGUID="6bda3f82-8b3c-4185-b131-1b11eca1b249" CreationDate="2016-07-31T09:06:03.440" UserId="4082" Text="Choosing CPU for general use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13735" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4374" RevisionGUID="6bda3f82-8b3c-4185-b131-1b11eca1b249" CreationDate="2016-07-31T09:06:03.440" UserId="4082" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4377" RevisionGUID="8ae9a5ba-e148-47fe-a9ef-b9dbf9deafdb" CreationDate="2016-07-31T17:48:30.700" UserId="3980" Text="Of the three notebook options you've provided, I'd personally go with i3 5005u. Using cpuboss.com, it is clear that the i3 has significantly better single core and multi-core performance than the Pentium n3700. You probably won't need the extra performance for web browsing and document editing, but it will come in handy in a situation where a little more processing power is needed. Also in performance, the i3 has a higher integrated gpu perfomance than the Pentium, which should help with improving video playback (1080p @ 60fps) and multi-screen. Furthermore, Intel ark says that the i3 supports 16gb of ram compared to 8gb which the Pentium supports. This gives &quot;upgradability&quot; for the future, just in case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this was helpful :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(sources: intel ark, cpu boss)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13747" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="76135890-1d0d-4e10-85ea-24f26ed7d722" CreationDate="2016-07-31T20:11:13.217" UserId="476" Comment="Added all links, replaced newegg links with official links." Text="Hoping to get some opinions/recommendations based on my current hardware setup. I've done some research, but I would like to get some feedback on my specific hardware components, and whether anything else should be upgraded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As said in the title, I would like to know what a good GPU upgrade is based on my current hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current GPU is a [Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as price goes, I wouldn't want to go over **$500**. That being said, I'd also like to take advantage of my current set up as much as I can. I'm also not a stickler for graphics (I don't need the best of the best), just want the latest games (i.e. Gears of War 4 or Doom) to run smoothly and look decent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the other pertinent hardware info (currently running Windows 7):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS M5A99FX][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: [AMD FX-6300](http://products.amd.com/en-us/search/CPU/AMD-FX-Series/AMD-FX-6-Core-Black-Edition/FX-6300/136)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: [G. Skill 16GB (2x8GB)](http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-1600c11d-16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: [APEX ATX12V 500W](http://www.apextechusa.com/products.asp?pID=202)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for constructive replies!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=45B97FBB-6064-4D68-9940-EC7DF9E2113C&amp;lang=eng&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.asus.com/ca-en/Motherboards/M5A99FX_PRO_R20/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4364" RevisionGUID="5111e2e0-84ed-4814-b496-1a92eb0511d5" CreationDate="2016-08-01T00:44:12.947" UserId="4076" Comment="added 269 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a decent laptop on which I can also play...I'm not really interested in super high graphics...but I would like to be able to play the latest games at 720p resolution with medium/high-ish settings. My budget is of 700 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I found this [Medion Erazer P6661][1] which has pretty good specs, and is just at my budget limit, but I have been reading online about people having issues on Medion laptops and about them being build with cheap materials, and I myself have had a bad time on a Medion laptop, even though it was a really cheap one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, here's my question: ...is this laptop worth my money? And if not, what other laptops should I consider for that price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important features to me are:&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA; - Skylake processor (i5 or i7)&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8 GB of RAM&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA; - nVidia card (940m or better)&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA; - 17.3&quot; screen would be preferred over 15.6&quot;, but I can't seem to find          many&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/Medion-P6661-Notebook-GeForce-Betriebssystem/dp/B01GYZXS3K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469837099&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Medion%20P6661" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13749" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4367" RevisionGUID="8c5cd239-95f7-4cc5-b86e-b0d76e78ecb8" CreationDate="2016-08-01T01:27:23.453" UserId="4079" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="Modern retail processors are all multi-cored, so my question `suppose a multi-core CPU.`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since many tasks are hard or even impossible to be executed in parallelism, I wonder in daily use like watching movie, word processing and browsing (except some extreme complex websites), the performance of single thread is more important? (it shouldn't be a problem for multi tasks as there are at least two cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, I guess it's smart to buy Intel Core i3-6320 than i5-6500 for daily use, as the single thread score of i3-6320 is higher than i5-6500 according to [PASSMARK][1]. However, you may not tell the difference when in real situation as both CPUs are so fast for daily tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13751" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4378" RevisionGUID="a1e89a72-6a52-4973-8898-d9dd951fa5bb" CreationDate="2016-08-01T05:24:55.927" UserId="3836" Text="I can answer your question. In terms of CPU utilization, there are three kinds of programs the average computer user will encounter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Programs that don't use very much CPU at all (most programs)&#xD;&#xA;2. Programs that use only one thread of a CPU heavily (a few programs)&#xD;&#xA;3. Programs that use all threads of a CPU heavily/evenly (a few programs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what does that mean for you? It means that for everyday usage, you will see **absolutely no difference** between the i3 and the i5 in question. While the i3 does indeed have a higher single thread score than the i5 - and suffers from two fewer cores - it uses hyperthreading, so in fact it has four threads it can execute programs on simultaneously, the same as the i5. I'm not going to get into why hyperthreaded threads are not as desirable as fully physical threads here, but suffice it to say this is kind of like a middle ground between a true dual core and a true quad core when it comes to multithreaded performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what programs will actually see a benefit from that i3's higher single thread performance, anyway? The answer for most users is *precious few*. Older computer games, some parts of photo editing software performance, a few OS operations... I really can't think of anything else. There are lots of programs that are still single-threaded, it's just that most of them fall into category 1 - you won't see ANY benefit past the point of, say, a Pentium 4 @ 3.4ghz! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, what programs will see benefits from the full four cores of the i5? Again, the answer for most users is *precious few*. The OS itself sometimes uses all four threads heavily, zipping/unzipping files is often a heavily multithreaded process, and watching HTML5 video or webms can sometimes see fairly high multicore utilization, especially if more than one plays at a time... but (and this is another wrinkle to the answer) since both of these CPUs in question feature GPUs with Intel's Quicksync video encoding technology built-in, handling some of the most demanding multithread CPU work a modern user might commonly encounter, having to do with HD video playback, encoding, etc - there will be much less of a difference between the two processors than the simple multithreaded benchmark score would intuitively seem to indicate. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one caveat to all of this is that if you are a *true* multitasker - if you have more than one demanding task going at any given time - the i5 is probably going to be a better bet for you. For example, if you wanted to zip a large file while simultaneously transcoding media being cast to your TV and using a word processor on a large document - that might warrant the more powerful CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the average daily user who simply wants to listen to music while watching a youtube video with about 20-30 chrome tabs open in the background and maybe a torrent going - both of these CPUs are huge overkill. You could step all the way down to something like an A8-7600 or a Celeron G1840 without noticing much, if any, performance degradation. In fact, for the average daily user, something like the A8-7600, which can run at a 45W TDP and which sports superior integrated graphics, is probably a much better choice than either of these CPUs, because it is more efficient and sports a more balanced design (a good mix of single-thread, multi-thread, and GPU power).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Choosing between the two processors asked about, however, I'd have to recommend the i3-6320**. It's cheaper, and since nothing else really stands out as being particularly great for the basic home user when it comes to the i5, there's no reason for me to suggest you buy it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13757" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4367" RevisionGUID="60995124-0800-44ff-a5f6-b880713cb2c8" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:20:05.453" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Modern retail processors are all multi-cored, so my question suppose a multi-core CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since many tasks are hard or even impossible to be executed in parallelism, I wonder in daily use like watching movie, word processing and browsing (except some extreme complex websites), the performance of single thread is more important? (it shouldn't be a problem for multi tasks as there are at least two cores)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, I guess it's smart to buy Intel Core i3-6320 than i5-6500 for daily use, as the single thread score of i3-6320 is higher than i5-6500 according to [PASSMARK][1]. However, you may not tell the difference when in real situation as both CPUs are so fast for daily tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4381" RevisionGUID="431c5995-2a59-4f25-9d92-525f08ce295a" CreationDate="2016-08-01T19:53:07.547" UserId="4099" Text="I have an old Dell Studio XPS 8100 that has been updated rather haphazardly. Now I would like more expansion slots and a faster CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what motherboard + CPU combination would be a good fit for my existing components. Since I will be buying both together, I would like to get something future-proof and a good performance match. I also have existing parts that I would like to keep, so compatability is important. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intended usage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Software development (fast compile times are a priority)&#xD;&#xA; - Photoshop&#xD;&#xA; - 3D modelling software&#xD;&#xA; - 4K monitor&#xD;&#xA; - Hackintosh for app development&#xD;&#xA; - Light gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The parts I would like to *keep* are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Case** Corsair 750D &#xD;&#xA; - **GPU** ASUS Nvidia 970GTX&#xD;&#xA; - **PSU** Corsair RM450&#xD;&#xA; - **Primary Storage** Samsung Evo 850 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **Secondary Storage** Toshiba DT01ACA SATA HDD&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM** 3x2GB generic Dell ram (will be upgraded later)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Parts I would like to accomodate: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated sound card&#xD;&#xA; - USB3 ports on my case (currently not connected)&#xD;&#xA; - Extra USB3 slots PCIe card&#xD;&#xA; - Faster CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that my case is large enough for an extended ATX motherboard, but I don't know if this is worth the cost vs ATX. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13763" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4381" RevisionGUID="431c5995-2a59-4f25-9d92-525f08ce295a" CreationDate="2016-08-01T19:53:07.547" UserId="4099" Text="Choosing a motherboard + CPU combination upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13764" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4381" RevisionGUID="431c5995-2a59-4f25-9d92-525f08ce295a" CreationDate="2016-08-01T19:53:07.547" UserId="4099" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4382" RevisionGUID="1233e9ee-83b9-49b1-8080-f88c1d0ca004" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:10:36.667" UserId="3995" Text="From expeience Gigabyte motherboards have been really easy or more straight forward to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An amazing CPU you can get maybe Intel 6700k, that is really high powered and future proof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets start with this combiniation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** Core i7 6700k [4 cores][8 threads]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW&#xD;&#xA;- **MOTHERBOARD:** Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160ITSSU/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since i do not see a budget, i think these two will be a great combinaton. This is the combination of components i picked out for my fathers hackintosh system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the link to installation: http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13766" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4382" RevisionGUID="2a55212d-c77a-4747-938f-4a64c1df05b9" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:20:02.403" UserId="3995" Comment="added 1073 characters in body" Text="From expeience Gigabyte motherboards have been really easy or more straight forward to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An amazing CPU you can get maybe Intel 6700k, that is really high powered and future proof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets start with this combiniation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** Core i7 6700k [4 cores][8 threads]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW&#xD;&#xA;- **MOTHERBOARD:** Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160ITSSU/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since i do not see a budget, i think these two will be a great combinaton. This is the combination of components i picked out for my fathers hackintosh system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the link to installation: http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now im going to answer your other points from here on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Software Development:** 6700k has fast single and multi core performance so it should be a piece of cake for this CPU to compile applications on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Photoshop:** 6700K has intergrated graphics cabablities, but since you have a GTX 970, no reall hardware accelerated problems i can see arrising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **3D Modeling Software:** Just like Photoshop i would say most of these applications have hardware acceleration built so they can take advantage of your GPU, but as far as rendering you should have some pretty decent rendering times of your 3d models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Hackintosh:** Like i mention above, my father has these paired components in his hackintosh build, and there have been other people who have had a succesful time with thise two parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Gaming:** 6700k as mentioned before is a powerful single and multicore performing chip and since you have an GTX 970, you are pretty solid since a it seems games are trying to use as mush of the GPU and little of the CPU as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this help. :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4382" RevisionGUID="6d3881d6-5554-40e4-8746-f3a2f2b059d5" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:25:18.850" UserId="3995" Comment="added 1073 characters in body" Text="From expeience Gigabyte motherboards have been really easy or more straight forward to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An amazing CPU you can get maybe Intel 6700k, that is really high powered and future proof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this list contains an updated: CPU and Motherboard you will need to get DDR 4 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets start with this combiniation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** Core i7 6700k [4 cores][8 threads]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW&#xD;&#xA;- **MOTHERBOARD:** Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160ITSSU/&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** G.SKILL Ripjaws X: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T0CHLA/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since i do not see a budget, i think these two will be a great combinaton. This is the combination of components i picked out for my fathers hackintosh system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the link to installation: http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now im going to answer your other points from here on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Software Development:** 6700k has fast single and multi core performance so it should be a piece of cake for this CPU to compile applications on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Photoshop:** 6700K has intergrated graphics cabablities, but since you have a GTX 970, no reall hardware accelerated problems i can see arrising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **3D Modeling Software:** Just like Photoshop i would say most of these applications have hardware acceleration built so they can take advantage of your GPU, but as far as rendering you should have some pretty decent rendering times of your 3d models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Hackintosh:** Like i mention above, my father has these paired components in his hackintosh build, and there have been other people who have had a succesful time with thise two parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Gaming:** 6700k as mentioned before is a powerful single and multicore performing chip and since you have an GTX 970, you are pretty solid since a it seems games are trying to use as mush of the GPU and little of the CPU as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this help. :)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4382" RevisionGUID="2dea242b-3b6b-489b-85a5-c85953d8be3f" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:33:12.257" UserId="3995" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="From expeience Gigabyte motherboards have been really easy or more straight forward to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An amazing CPU you can get maybe Intel 6700k, that is really high powered and future proof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this list contains an updated: CPU and Motherboard you will need to get DDR 4 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So lets start with this combiniation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** Core i7 6700k [4 cores][8 threads]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW&#xD;&#xA;- **MOTHERBOARD:** Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160ITSSU/&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** G.SKILL Ripjaws X (this specific package is 2x 8GB sticks): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T0CHLA/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since i do not see a budget, i think these two will be a great combinaton. This is the combination of components i picked out for my fathers hackintosh system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the link to installation: http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now im going to answer your other points from here on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Software Development:** 6700k has fast single and multi core performance so it should be a piece of cake for this CPU to compile applications on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Photoshop:** 6700K has intergrated graphics cabablities, but since you have a GTX 970, no reall hardware accelerated problems i can see arrising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **3D Modeling Software:** Just like Photoshop i would say most of these applications have hardware acceleration built so they can take advantage of your GPU, but as far as rendering you should have some pretty decent rendering times of your 3d models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Hackintosh:** Like i mention above, my father has these paired components in his hackintosh build, and there have been other people who have had a succesful time with thise two parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Gaming:** 6700k as mentioned before is a powerful single and multicore performing chip and since you have an GTX 970, you are pretty solid since a it seems games are trying to use as mush of the GPU and little of the CPU as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this help. :)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4383" RevisionGUID="c7fd19a1-089a-4995-ad5a-f1893e8f1833" CreationDate="2016-08-01T23:32:41.257" UserId="3980" Text="Here's what I'd do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Prices off Amazon)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD FX-6300 ***replace with*** AMD FX-8350 (4/4.2 GHz -- Base/OD) + $159.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition ***replace with*** MSI Gaming GTX 960 4GB OC (SLI Capable) + $338.57 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's $498.52 of parts above, the GPU does have a mail-in rebate for $20. (I always forget to do the mail-in rebate however).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4383" RevisionGUID="d75abbb5-4114-4f3d-9a1b-ae9ad2f644d7" CreationDate="2016-08-01T23:43:06.663" UserId="3980" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="Here's what I'd do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(CPU price off Newegg, Other two off Amazon)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** AMD FX-6300 ***replace with*** AMD FX-9590 8 core 4.7 GHz **(+$189.99)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Cooler** Thermaltake NiC C5 120mm Untouchable CPU Cooler 230W TDP **(+48.63)**&#xD;&#xA;this cooler is a bit tall, so make sure it'll fit in your case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU:** MSI GAMING GTX 960 4GB OC Twin Frozr-V HDCP Ready SLI Support (GTX 960 GAMING 4G) **(+$238.57)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total is:  **$477.19**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;n.b. since you didn't list all your parts, you might want to double check that 500W is enough, it should be though..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4385" RevisionGUID="b0c2a6e5-4349-426e-a3f5-024e454faacc" CreationDate="2016-08-02T01:18:28.047" UserId="3980" Text="You might consider the Zalman CNPS5X PERFORMA off Amazon for $25.91. It's not too loud at 100% speed and I was able to use it to cool an i7 6700k being stress tested at 4.6Hz (I was getting about 85C - 90C) (I've also upgraded since then). All in all, it's a great cooler, installation is super easy, you literally just snap it in, you don't need to take the motherboard out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;n.b.  It supports LGA 775, not 1366. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4386" RevisionGUID="ada0feda-7746-45f6-96bd-497b81ef2ca7" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:23:22.190" UserId="153" Text="I would like to use the raspberry pi zero for a internet of things project but it does not have wifi access by default. I would like to use a usb wifi adapter to connect the pi to the Internet. Here are my must haves:&#xA;&#xA; - be compatible with raspbian&#xA; - be under $10&#xA;&#xA;Here are some features that I would like to have but are not required&#xA;&#xA; - have compatibility with 5ghz wifi&#xA;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4386" RevisionGUID="ada0feda-7746-45f6-96bd-497b81ef2ca7" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:23:22.190" UserId="153" Text="Wifi adapter for raspberry pi zero" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4386" RevisionGUID="ada0feda-7746-45f6-96bd-497b81ef2ca7" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:23:22.190" UserId="153" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4386" RevisionGUID="f3aa8ebd-9366-4669-a4e9-038bfd9b7b58" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:50:28.783" UserId="153" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="I would like to use the raspberry pi zero for a internet of things project but it does not have wifi access by default. I would like to use a usb wifi adapter to connect the pi to the Internet. Here are my must haves:&#xA;&#xA; - be compatible with raspbian&#xA; - be under $10&#xA;&#xA;Here are some features that I would like to have but are not required&#xA;&#xA; - have compatibility with 5ghz wifi&#xA; - have a microusb connector&#xA;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4387" RevisionGUID="2363a1cf-3f50-45c8-852d-bb13abb2598e" CreationDate="2016-08-02T03:13:19.180" UserId="3836" Text="I'm going to make an uncommon recommendation on the basis that while you may not have heard of this brand or solution, it is definitely what believe you need. I recommend the [DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 300 120mm CPU Cooler for Intel][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used Deepcool fans before so I know that they are decently built and quiet if installed correctly. Moreover, this design fits not only socket 775 but also socket 1366, so it will be adaptable to your needs (it's even rated for up to 130W TDP CPUs, which covers almost the entire range of CPUs on either socket). Finally, it costs less than the competition mentioned so far - at $17.99, it's a good deal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only potential downside to this cooler I can see is a relatively large height (135.7 mm) and (possibly) poor overclocking performance relative to the standard of our age, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (which is not a quiet solution by any means), due to its inferior heat pipe configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CA-GAM300&amp;c=CJ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13783" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4386" RevisionGUID="0f6bad58-6f25-4c8b-a1c1-8dd9c7482e23" CreationDate="2016-08-02T03:22:24.363" UserId="153" Comment="added 155 characters in body" Text="I would like to use the raspberry pi zero for a internet of things project but it does not have wifi access by default. I would like to use a usb wifi adapter to connect the pi to the Internet. Here are my must haves:&#xA;&#xA; - be compatible with raspbian&#xA; - be under $10&#xA;&#xA;Here are some features that I would like to have but are not required&#xA;&#xA; - have compatibility with 5ghz wifi&#xA; - have a microusb connector&#xA;&#xA;I have looked at using a usb wifi adapter with a miniusb to use adapter but that would easily go over $10 and I was wondering if there is anything better.&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13785" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4388" RevisionGUID="0b89d7ed-dafc-486c-a11f-4e550d724f40" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:05:23.440" UserId="3980" Text="I looked around on the Internet for an answer and wasn't able to find one, so I thought I'd ask it here. (3 part question)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's say I have one graphics card that can run 3 screens that's also crossfire capable. If I were to use 2 way crossfire (two of the same GPU) does that mean I can now use 6 screens (three on each card)? If I can only use 3 screens, would I plug the screens into the graphics card closer to the CPU or further from the CPU. One last part to the question, do  I need a crossfire bridge for the graphics cards? Somewhere  I read that sometimes you don't need bridges for multiple grpahics cards (like it's integrated in the mobo or something). Thanks in advance! :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSi R7 370 4G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSi z170a SLI plus (supports up to 3 way crossfire)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13786" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4388" RevisionGUID="0b89d7ed-dafc-486c-a11f-4e550d724f40" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:05:23.440" UserId="3980" Text="Does using 2 way Crossfire allow you to use more screens?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13787" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4388" RevisionGUID="0b89d7ed-dafc-486c-a11f-4e550d724f40" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:05:23.440" UserId="3980" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13788" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4389" RevisionGUID="0f80b0b6-1e64-40b9-a25e-f81a38d5d381" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:32:52.770" UserId="3980" Text="What a coincidence, I've also got a RPi Zero. Check this out on Amazon.com,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &quot;***Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter***&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's only $8.99. It says it's compatible with RPi and RPi 2. I personally have the wifi dongle that came with the adafruit RPi Zero Starter Pack (which is about $11 w/o shipping). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this is helpful :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470119240&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=raspberry%20pi%20wifi%20dongle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4390" RevisionGUID="3011654e-695b-47cd-8fd8-e8086936e670" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:34:43.317" UserId="3836" Text=" 1. If I were to use 2 way crossfire (two of the same GPU) does that mean I can now use 6 screens (three on each card)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No.** The only way to use the additional 3 video outputs on the other card would be to run it without crossfiring it. You can run multiple GPUs in a computer without needing to crossfire them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. If I can only use 3 screens, would I plug the screens into the graphics card closer to the CPU or further from the CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It doesn't matter.** AFAIK, crossfire and SLI are smart enough to recognize which card is intended as the master - that is, whichever has the video outs attached.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Do I need a crossfire bridge for the graphics cards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not for modern GPUs on modern motherboards which are crossfire certified.** It may also work in other circumstances that are less well-defined, but your GPU and motherboard should not require a crossfire bridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Addendum:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like noting that your CPU has its own GPU, and your motherboard has 3 or four video outs of its own. If all you are trying to do is run more than three screens, not all of which will be used for gaming, then you could run up to three screens off of this integrated GPU if you enabled it in BIOS. You would need to install Intel graphics alongside AMD's, but that should present no problem. This way, you could support up to six monitors without needing to add a second GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, you could add another small GPU with three video outs - like an R7 240 or GT 730 - which could be used alongside your other GPU systems to provide a *further* 3 screens - up to nine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NOTE: As it currently stands, your GPUs will all need to use a displayport connection for connecting a third monitor. This is something that needs to have an active adapter dongle attached to it if you will be using it to push a signal to a screen which does not support displayport (e.g. it uses VGA, DVI, or HDMI inputs exclusively)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13790" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4391" RevisionGUID="798f53c9-d05c-442a-bfab-9663c0c3cfb0" CreationDate="2016-08-02T07:39:03.190" UserId="4079" Text="I want to build a PC as small as possible, so I'm considering a mini-ITX build which support dedicated graphic card. In fact I don't need a graphic card right now, but just in case I will need one in the future, so mini-ITX seems to be a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a small and solid chassis at reasonable price, any recommends?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13791" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4391" RevisionGUID="798f53c9-d05c-442a-bfab-9663c0c3cfb0" CreationDate="2016-08-02T07:39:03.190" UserId="4079" Text="What are the smallest mini-ITX cases available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13792" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4391" RevisionGUID="798f53c9-d05c-442a-bfab-9663c0c3cfb0" CreationDate="2016-08-02T07:39:03.190" UserId="4079" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13793" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4391" RevisionGUID="104ecf2c-2910-42ec-bf81-e38e8b560ed7" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:10:46.373" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13794" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4388" RevisionGUID="52edd018-e8c3-47ae-8846-53b3fd61f659" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:11:17.703" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4392" RevisionGUID="557613af-8c92-49c4-9407-e8d527376365" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:04:11.733" UserId="8" Text="I'm looking to upgrade my system from the laptop I'm currently working on to a high-powered PC. I'll be using it for&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a *lot* of programming, though not that much compiling&#xD;&#xA;- some gaming (I imagine the amount of gaming I do will increase when I have a PC that can actually handle games)&#xD;&#xA;- occasional video &amp; audio editing&#xD;&#xA;- small amounts of graphics work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I'm looking for a *pre-built* system (much as I'd like to build my own, I'm far too likely to mess up) with minimum specifications of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: 3.0 GHz or more - don't mind who makes it&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: 4 GB VRAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- Disk: 1 TB or more; don't mind whether it's an SSD or HDD&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 8 GB or more DDR3 or later&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi card built in&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer this to cost me £500 or less (~$650 at time of writing), but I can stretch that to £600 ($780) if necessary." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13799" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4392" RevisionGUID="557613af-8c92-49c4-9407-e8d527376365" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:04:11.733" UserId="8" Text="Pre-built mid-range gaming system under £600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13800" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4392" RevisionGUID="557613af-8c92-49c4-9407-e8d527376365" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:04:11.733" UserId="8" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13801" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="356429a9-f02c-4416-9805-468871b4d7d7" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:04:52.763" UserId="3902" Comment="36" />
  <row Id="13802" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="4acc50a4-dc92-4521-b24c-ee7eb90d7d1c" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:00:34.513" UserId="3902" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="This question is here after I ask this one: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4275/uhd-compatible-graphic-card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is that I have a HTPC and would like to be able to read UHD movies (since the i3's IGP cannot). As you can see in the previous question, finding a passive GPU with UHD display is impossible for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, during my researches, I found a motherboard that embed a CPU (Pentium J3710) http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp. Following the description, it should be able to do UHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard is a good start but appart from the Asrock's description, if I go onto the Intel website, I cannot find any information about this CPU and its IGP (espectially the maximum resolution) and I didn't find anything else like this. Maybe you could ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements for a motherboard that embed a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive and low counsumption&#xD;&#xA; - UHD resolution output with hardware h265 decoding&#xD;&#xA; - At least 3 SATA connectors (2 for RAID, one for BlueRay). 3 or 6GB/s, I don't mind&#xD;&#xA; - My current chassis is Micro-ATX so no ATX, but Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX are ok&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, 4k60 is preferred, but any suggestion, even 4k30 is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="044a65ee-fa49-400c-811c-760c8ed9d162" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:04:52.793" UserId="3902" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="This question is here after I ask this one: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4275/uhd-compatible-graphic-card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is that I have a HTPC and would like to be able to read UHD movies (since the i3's IGP cannot). As you can see in the previous question, finding a passive GPU with UHD display is impossible for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, during my researches, I found a motherboard that embed a CPU (Pentium J3710) http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp. Following the description, it should be able to do UHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard is a good start but appart from the Asrock's description, if I go onto the Intel website, I cannot find any information about this CPU and its IGP (espectially the maximum resolution). However, it doesn't support RAID (which is mandatory for me). I didn't find another product like this. Maybe you could ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements for a motherboard that embed a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive and low counsumption&#xD;&#xA; - UHD resolution output with hardware h265 decoding&#xD;&#xA; - At least 3 SATA connectors (2 for RAID, one for BlueRay). 3 or 6GB/s, I don't mind&#xD;&#xA; - My current chassis is Micro-ATX so no ATX, but Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX are ok&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, 4k60 is preferred, but any suggestion, even 4k30 is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13804" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="37cb1805-6f84-4229-b040-ed65fa70b325" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:14:42.893" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13805" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="ddc267e8-602e-496e-98f3-274c692fd2ca" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:14:42.893" UserId="8" Comment="37" />
  <row Id="13809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4394" RevisionGUID="6c015b86-518d-4566-a722-778e8c10a7e4" CreationDate="2016-08-02T15:36:37.977" UserId="3867" Text="The 2 answers above are good answers, but I thought I'd add what I actually went for in the end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an Akasa Nero 3, which has the push-pin style mounts for LGA775 / LGA1366. (They are adjustable with a sliding pin.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like this fan because it's fairly light weight (which is important as I move my computer to and from different rented accommodation regularly), inexpensive and fairly quiet. (Much quieter than the stock intel cooler. I can hear my GPU fans idling now.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, the 4 heatpipes are in *direct* contact with the CPU... They aren't polished quite as nicely as more expensive coolers, which perhaps means their performance is slightly reduced, however they are in direct contact so there isn't an additional metal component for heat to diffuse through, so I think overall it's probably got quite good performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I managed to overclock my i7 920 to 4.2 GHz before it just got too hot to overclock further... I didn't even have to change the voltages... Presumably it would go even higher, but it would need an even bigger cooler! By lowering the multiplier I reached a base clock of about 220 MHz. Here I was limited by the motherboard or CPU becoming unstable. Increasing the voltages didn't help... I suspect it may be the motherboard limiting here, but I'm not sure." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4395" RevisionGUID="616a0d13-1d6a-447b-a014-f9bb15945404" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:12:17.650" UserId="3836" Text="Theoretically, the [ASRock QC5000-ITX/PH][1] will get you to &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4K x 2K (4096x2160) @ 30Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I don't know. I've built seven or eight rigs with that board inside of it and I would say my confidence level is *low*. The Pentium J3710 - even less so. It doesn't support DP 1.2, so it can't do &quot;real&quot; 4K. AsRock claims&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4K x 2K (3840x2160) @ 30Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of this is really low-power stuff, as you might expect from an embedded system. A non-embedded equivalent with slightly more oomph, which might just be enough to drive a 4k30 display, would be something like an Athlon 5370 on the [ASRock AM1H-ITX][2] motherboard. But that STILL doesn't get you hardware RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 2.0 appears to be available on Skylake motherboards, or at least some kind of HDMI technology which offers full 4K, but unfortunately it doesn't get you 30hz; only 24hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**There's no one motherboard with an embedded chip on the market that gets you all of what you want.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**BUT**, there is a very similar solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/GGs7TH&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/GGs7TH/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: AMD A8-7600 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($71.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: MSI A68HI AC Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard  ($81.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Klevv Urbane 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory  ($35.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Other: Belkin Miracast Video Adapter (Supports HDMI 2.0) ($59.99)&#xD;&#xA;    Total: $249.95&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-02 14:55 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This fits in your current case and runs on your current PSU, with your current storage solutions. It supports RAID 0/1/10 off the FCH's SATA controller for all four possible SATA connections, and, while it cannot do a hardwired 4K connection, it supports a CPU and wireless solution with the oomph and the technology necessary to drive a *4k60* connection to your TV in true, full 4k resolution, with the help of the [Belkin Miracast Video Adapter][3]. The wireless card connects in the 5ghz frequency range with the adapter, which is plugged directly into the HDMI 2.0 port on your TV, and then you enable miracast using a charm in Windows 8.1 or 10 (or on any Android device with an OS of 4.2 or higher). Apparently this also works in linux via the [MiracleCast][4] software, but I'm not confident in that. It is true that this would require a second connection (either using the built-in ethernet or another wifi adapter in a USB or PCI-E port) to actually get online content onto your screen, but I'm guessing due to the RAID requirement that this is not a big deal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, this is NOT embedded and NOT passively cooled, so if that's a dealbreaker then I guess we are SOL. I'm hoping that it isn't since your current build seems not to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was the only solution I could find which comes close to what you're looking for. It is true that you could use this dongle with an Intel system that supported Miracast, and there may be other similar HDMI 2.0 miracast adapters out there, but this was the configuration which seemed best-supported and most cost-effective from my point of view. Let me know if you have any questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157595&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Miracast-Video-Adapter-Supports/dp/B00HFAEBWG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://github.com/albfan/miraclecast" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4396" RevisionGUID="316bef78-4602-46da-85a6-e1a7518a3971" CreationDate="2016-08-02T21:03:44.750" UserId="3980" Text="I have never heard of such a dB limiting device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hmm.. I guess another way you could get around this problem is by &quot;calibrating&quot; your headphones using a sound level meter and an online frequency generator. Figure out what volume on your computer is 85dB on your headphones, and never pass that volume limit on your computer. E.g. Volume set at 40 on my computer is = 85dB max. You would have to repeat this process for different headphones. You would also have to make sure that when testing, the volumes of programs and websites are set to 100, ensuring that your main system volume is like a &quot;master&quot; volume control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd buy an actual sound level meter and not use an app on my phone. Some sound level meters run for about $18 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you could build such a device using arduino, rpi or a soundboard, if you have the experience...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4397" RevisionGUID="c3441a7e-c85f-43a3-aa22-62fe9787bf15" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:06:19.773" UserId="476" Text="I've been searching, from what I can find, it's nearly impossible to get a pre-built computer for under $800 with a video card with 4GB of VRAM. All of the other specifications are easy to achieve for less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it consoles you, the difference between 2GB and 4GB of VRAM in low end cards is negligible to nonexistent. Therefore, the pre-built computer I recommend to you contains a 2GB GT 730.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Inspiron 3650 - [US][1] - [UK][2]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Price:** $619.99 USA, £439 UK&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** [i5-6400][3], 2.7Ghz base, 3.3Ghz turbo.&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** [GT 730][4], 2GB VRAM&#xD;&#xA;- **Disk:** Generic 1TB 7200RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** Generic 1x8GB DDR3L-1600Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- **WiFi:** 802.11 b/g/n&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Stuff&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were thinking - &quot;oh the high end graphics cards have 4GB of VRAM, so 4GB of VRAM automatically classifies a GPU as good,&quot; you were completely and totally wrong. In fact, if you were to custom build a computer, a 2GB GTX 960 would be vastly superior to a 4GB GT 730, and the performance difference between the 4GB GT 730 and the 2GB GT 730 would be practically nonexistant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you still doubt this, here is a link to a [3DMark Firestrike benchmark comparison][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both graphics cards have 2GB VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, clock speed also doesn't dictate performance. Intel has a vastly superior IPC (Instructions per cycle) than AMD, and therefore can provide incredibly higher levels of performance with a 2.7Ghz clock speed than AMD can with 3Ghz or even 4Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cinebench scores][6]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.7Ghz i5-6400, quad core: 521&#xD;&#xA;3.5Ghz FX-6300, hexa core: 412&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how clock speed, and even amount of cores bow down before IPC in the benchmark above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I think that this will have plenty of power, and I have proved that even if there were a way to make the GPU have more VRAM and the CPU more clock speed, it would not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hopefully you take these benchmarks and tips into consideration when purchasing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this does not suit your needs, please notify me. If there is a particular reason you need exactly 3Ghz clock speed or 4GB VRAM, also please notify me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=ddclot216b&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/uk/business/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=bd65010&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88185/Intel-Core-i5-6400-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gt-730/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://%20http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/7694777/fs/8175910#&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://cbscores.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4387" RevisionGUID="fd50a428-6c2c-4d56-9218-1e39e731f51a" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:16:13.647" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="I'm going to make an uncommon recommendation on the basis that while you may not have heard of this brand or solution, it is definitely what believe you need. I recommend the [DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 300 120mm CPU Cooler for Intel][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used Deepcool fans before so I know that they are decently built and quiet if installed correctly. Moreover, this design fits not only socket 775 but also socket 1366, so it will be adaptable to your needs (it's even rated for up to 130W TDP CPUs, which covers almost the entire range of CPUs on either socket). Finally, it costs less than the competition mentioned so far - at $17.99, it's a good deal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only potential downside to this cooler I can see is a relatively large height (135.7 mm) and (possibly) poor overclocking performance relative to the standard of our age, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (which is not a quiet solution by any means), due to its inferior heat pipe configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Deepcool GAMMAXX&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CA-GAM300&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/eAaFX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13815" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4385" RevisionGUID="12846b1a-f615-4515-bbde-9ba2ee0c08c7" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:17:52.007" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo, link" Text="You might consider the [Zalman CNPS5X PERFORMA][1] off Amazon for $25.91. It's not too loud at 100% speed and I was able to use it to cool an i7 6700k being stress tested at 4.6Hz (I was getting about 85C - 90C) (I've also upgraded since then). All in all, it's a great cooler, installation is super easy, you literally just snap it in, you don't need to take the motherboard out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;n.b.  It supports LGA 775, not 1366. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Zalman CNPS5X PERFORMA&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Cooler-Socket-CNPS5X-PERFORMA/dp/B007B5PSG8&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/SNOGg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13816" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4397" RevisionGUID="8bdb3f41-5a02-4d82-9bbd-a363466b1da1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:20:57.350" UserId="476" Comment="Added photo" Text="I've been searching, from what I can find, it's nearly impossible to get a pre-built computer for under $800 with a video card with 4GB of VRAM. All of the other specifications are easy to achieve for less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it consoles you, the difference between 2GB and 4GB of VRAM in low end cards is negligible to nonexistent. Therefore, the pre-built computer I recommend to you contains a 2GB GT 730.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Inspiron 3650 - [US][1] - [UK][2]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Price:** $619.99 USA, £439 UK&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** [i5-6400][3], 2.7Ghz base, 3.3Ghz turbo.&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** [GT 730][4], 2GB VRAM&#xD;&#xA;- **Disk:** Generic 1TB 7200RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** Generic 1x8GB DDR3L-1600Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- **WiFi:** 802.11 b/g/n&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Dell Inspiron 3650&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Stuff&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were thinking - &quot;oh the high end graphics cards have 4GB of VRAM, so 4GB of VRAM automatically classifies a GPU as good,&quot; you were completely and totally wrong. In fact, if you were to custom build a computer, a 2GB GTX 960 would be vastly superior to a 4GB GT 730, and the performance difference between the 4GB GT 730 and the 2GB GT 730 would be practically nonexistant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you still doubt this, here is a link to a [3DMark Firestrike benchmark comparison][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both graphics cards have 2GB VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, clock speed also doesn't dictate performance. Intel has a vastly superior IPC (Instructions per cycle) than AMD, and therefore can provide incredibly higher levels of performance with a 2.7Ghz clock speed than AMD can with 3Ghz or even 4Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cinebench scores][7]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.7Ghz i5-6400, quad core: 521&#xD;&#xA;3.5Ghz FX-6300, hexa core: 412&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how clock speed, and even amount of cores bow down before IPC in the benchmark above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I think that this will have plenty of power, and I have proved that even if there were a way to make the GPU have more VRAM and the CPU more clock speed, it would not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hopefully you take these benchmarks and tips into consideration when purchasing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this does not suit your needs, please notify me. If there is a particular reason you need exactly 3Ghz clock speed or 4GB VRAM, also please notify me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=ddclot216b&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/uk/business/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=bd65010&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88185/Intel-Core-i5-6400-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gt-730/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3KSl6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://%20http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/7694777/fs/8175910#&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://cbscores.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13817" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4387" RevisionGUID="6132e98d-3f4e-44df-a7ed-7c03ec57a6d9" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:39:16.560" UserId="3836" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm going to make an uncommon recommendation on the basis that while you may not have heard of this brand or solution, it is definitely what I believe you need. I recommend the [DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 300 120mm CPU Cooler for Intel][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used Deepcool fans before so I know that they are decently built and quiet if installed correctly. Moreover, this design fits not only socket 775 but also socket 1366, so it will be adaptable to your needs (it's even rated for up to 130W TDP CPUs, which covers almost the entire range of CPUs on either socket). Finally, it costs less than the competition mentioned so far - at $17.99, it's a good deal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only potential downside to this cooler I can see is a relatively large height (135.7 mm) and (possibly) poor overclocking performance relative to the standard of our age, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (which is not a quiet solution by any means), due to its inferior heat pipe configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Deepcool GAMMAXX&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CA-GAM300&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/eAaFX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4398" RevisionGUID="0cd5b56b-516c-4f2b-aeb6-8bf20530d579" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:23:01.760" UserId="275" Text="I would like some speakers primarily for use in my bedroom. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to be able to play sound through both my laptop and my phone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Loudness is not of particular importance, but I would like decent sound  quality (For reference I own a pair of Rokit RP6 G2 monitor speakers, which I love the quality of), including presence of bass. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Portability is a plus - I don't want the speakers to take up too much room, and being able to play from battery would be a plus, but not essential. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm otherwise not wanting to break the bank - I'm looking for good audio quality, without spending too much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13822" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4398" RevisionGUID="0cd5b56b-516c-4f2b-aeb6-8bf20530d579" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:23:01.760" UserId="275" Text="Decent quality portable bluetooth speakers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13823" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4398" RevisionGUID="0cd5b56b-516c-4f2b-aeb6-8bf20530d579" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:23:01.760" UserId="275" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4400" RevisionGUID="e4655d36-5bdb-4868-b7e1-57ab9a2022e1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:06:36.417" UserId="8" Text="I recommend the [Juice Bar](http://juice.co.uk/pages/product/juice-bar) portable speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had one of these for about half a year, and I've been very happy with the quality of both the build and the audio - and that's coming from a professional sound engineer! They've also got great range - I managed 20m indoors, through brick walls, and around 35-40m outdoors. They're available in a range of colours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current price in the UK is just under £40, which is US$52 as I write this. Not the cheapest, but they're certainly worth the money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="18cae94b-5c10-425e-866f-e5b71f66aa5e" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:10:07.897" UserId="4108" Text="I am new to BigData Ecosystem and trying to get a machine(laptop) for me which can help me learn BigData and can support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     1.Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA;     2.Sqoop&#xD;&#xA;     3.Some db's like Oracle or MySQL&#xD;&#xA;     4.MapReduce programs.&#xD;&#xA;     5.IDE like Eclipse.&#xD;&#xA;     6.Documentation work(Word,Excel,Powerpoint ).&#xD;&#xA;I have researched a lot regarding this but couldn't reach a conclusion as the answers to my dilemma varied from a **4GB** RAM variant to **32GB** RAM. **i7** processors look promising but they are on the high side of my budget (*INR 45k*).Renting is out of option as I am looking at it as a long time investment.&#xD;&#xA;I have found these [laptops](http://bestphones.co.in/best-laptops-under-40000-in-india-students-gaming-work) in my budget but again i am not sure which one to choose as the features are ranging.Please guide." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13829" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="18cae94b-5c10-425e-866f-e5b71f66aa5e" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:10:07.897" UserId="4108" Text="Hardware Configuration required to run Multi Node Hadoop on a Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13830" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="18cae94b-5c10-425e-866f-e5b71f66aa5e" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:10:07.897" UserId="4108" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13831" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="622f6567-6c3c-4e67-9c5e-e009087b104e" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:17:11.363" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="I am new to BigData Ecosystem and trying to get a machine(laptop) for me which can help me learn BigData and can support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sqoop&#xD;&#xA; 3. Some db's like Oracle or MySQ   &#xD;&#xA; 4. MapReduce programs.&#xD;&#xA; 5. IDE like Eclipse.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Documentation work(Word,Excel,Powerpoint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have researched a lot regarding this but couldn't reach a conclusion as the answers to my dilemma varied from a **4GB** RAM variant to **32GB** RAM. **i7** processors look promising but they are on the high side of my budget (*INR 45k*).Renting is out of option as I am looking at it as a long time investment.&#xD;&#xA;I have found these [laptops](http://bestphones.co.in/best-laptops-under-40000-in-india-students-gaming-work) in my budget but again i am not sure which one to choose as the features are ranging.Please guide." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13832" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="fccc4a05-1d9e-43c8-9c93-3f6d8f33b095" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:17:21.600" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13833" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="88df533f-963e-4f7f-9ba9-44aed4ed1dc0" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:33:07.853" UserId="4108" Comment="Tried to be more precise with my requirements" Text="I am looking for a laptop which can withstand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sqoop queries.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Db's like Oracle or MySQL   &#xD;&#xA; 4. Eclipse IDE for JAVA.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Documentation work(MSWord,MSExcel,MSPowerpoint).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these things will be running mostly at same time.&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 options:-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i5 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA; 2. i7 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 8GB enough to run Hadoop as a multi node system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13834" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="88df533f-963e-4f7f-9ba9-44aed4ed1dc0" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:33:07.853" UserId="4108" Comment="Tried to be more precise with my requirements" Text="Hardware Configuration required to run Multi Node Hadoop on a Laptop(Budget-45k INR)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="1d77ba0e-5de1-4524-9274-c6a8c69f99ff" CreationDate="2016-08-03T11:20:57.950" UserId="4108" Comment="added one more point" Text="I am looking for a laptop which can withstand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sqoop queries.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Db's like Oracle or MySQL   &#xD;&#xA; 4. Eclipse IDE for JAVA.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Documentation work(MSWord,MSExcel,MSPowerpoint).&#xD;&#xA; 6. VMWare&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these things will be running mostly at same time.&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 options:-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i5 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA; 2. i7 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 8GB enough to run Hadoop as a multi node system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="ee26bf01-64c4-41c2-a723-57a6a00043f0" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:18:35.797" UserId="4109" Text="I have my Laptop Toshiba Satellite C640,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got 2GB RAM and was searching for an upgrade of 4GB on Amazon. When I checked on Amazon there were many and enquired about few with Amazon. A seller shared me two other RAM which probably he/she is selling. I see a whole lot of difference in the costing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone help me what makes these two RAMs different and which is best RAM for me to buy? and how to chose the compatible one for laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I couldn't check with Crucial software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    http://www.amazon.in/Samsung-PC3-10600-1333MHz-SO-DIMM-M471B5273DH0/dp/B00I2ZAEOW/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;m=A2JY2P5URJ5MSF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    http://www.amazon.in/Samsung-Pc3-10600-1333mhz-So-dimm-M471b5273ch0-ch9/dp/B003XN3BZC/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;m=A2JY2P5URJ5MSF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And below&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    https://www.amazon.in/Transcend-1333MHZ-SO-DIMM-Laptop-Memory/dp/B00HSZFO6U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    https://www.amazon.in/Transcend-4GB-DDR3L-1600-LAPTOP/dp/B00B5LOOJG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="ee26bf01-64c4-41c2-a723-57a6a00043f0" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:18:35.797" UserId="4109" Text="What makes these RAM have different costing when I'm searching for one which suits my laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="ee26bf01-64c4-41c2-a723-57a6a00043f0" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:18:35.797" UserId="4109" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4397" RevisionGUID="855bb063-7a37-4b0b-8335-8f2f5a822b24" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:47:36.930" UserId="476" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I've been searching, from what I can find, it's nearly impossible to get a pre-built computer for under $800 with a video card with 4GB of VRAM. All of the other specifications are easy to achieve for less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it consoles you, the difference between 2GB and 4GB of VRAM in low end cards is negligible to nonexistent. Therefore, the pre-built computer I recommend to you contains a 2GB GT 730.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Inspiron 3650 - [US][1] - [UK][2]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Price:** $619.99 USA, £439 UK&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** [i5-6400][3], 2.7Ghz base, 3.3Ghz turbo.&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** [GT 730][4], 2GB VRAM&#xD;&#xA;- **Disk:** Generic 1TB 7200RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** Generic 1x8GB DDR3L-1600Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- **WiFi:** 802.11 b/g/n&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Dell Inspiron 3650&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Stuff&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were thinking - &quot;oh the high end graphics cards have 4GB of VRAM, so 4GB of VRAM automatically classifies a GPU as good,&quot; you were completely and totally wrong. In fact, if you were to custom build a computer, a 2GB GTX 960 would be vastly superior to a 4GB GT 730, and the performance difference between the 4GB GT 730 and the 2GB GT 730 would be practically nonexistant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you still doubt this, here is a link to a [3DMark Firestrike benchmark comparison][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both graphics cards have 2GB VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, clock speed also doesn't dictate performance. Intel has a vastly superior IPC (Instructions per cycle) than AMD, and therefore can provide incredibly higher levels of performance with a 2.7Ghz clock speed than AMD can with 3Ghz or even 4Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cinebench scores][7]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.7Ghz i5-6400, quad core: 521 &lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3.5Ghz FX-6300, hexa core: 412&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how clock speed, and even amount of cores bow down before IPC in the benchmark above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I think that this will have plenty of power, and I have proved that even if there were a way to make the GPU have more VRAM and the CPU more clock speed, it would not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hopefully you take these benchmarks and tips into consideration when purchasing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this does not suit your needs, please notify me. If there is a particular reason you need exactly 3Ghz clock speed or 4GB VRAM, also please notify me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=ddclot216b&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/uk/business/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=bd65010&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88185/Intel-Core-i5-6400-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gt-730/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3KSl6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://%20http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/7694777/fs/8175910#&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://cbscores.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4403" RevisionGUID="5906effb-1063-4254-976b-aa9fc27736f7" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:56:23.643" UserId="3836" Text="Buy the [last][1] option. This RAM is faster and cheaper than the rest. The others cost more because they are being sold through other vendors who can't or don't want to compete on price. The higher price of the Samsung RAM in general can probably be attributed to compatibility; that RAM is commonly used in OEM systems and therefore will have good compatibility with many systems people own. The Transcend RAM modules on display above will also have good compatibility, but they may not be officially vetted by the OEMs, so they are less desirable to businesses and such. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, the correct RAM choice for you is the last option. Even if your laptop doesn't support 1600mhz RAM, it should slow itself down to 1333mhz automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Transcend-4GB-DDR3L-1600-LAPTOP/dp/B00B5LOOJG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13841" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="79a8eeb8-cf17-4b79-9e2a-237906abd54b" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:59:14.873" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4404" RevisionGUID="365d0c41-a52f-4034-8a97-cb493dc48168" CreationDate="2016-08-03T16:18:55.080" UserId="57" Text="I am looking for an action camera that has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPS built in&#xD;&#xA; - All metadata (mainly GPS) needs to be accessible via an API. I need to be able to pull this metadata for any point in a video. &#xD;&#xA; - At least 1080p video; the faster the framerate the better&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to be mountable (I am planning on attaching this to a drone or gimble with GoPro mounts)&#xD;&#xA; - Still photos are a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need an LCD&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to be waterproof&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My budget for this is approximately $450. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Access to the metadata does not need to be possible while it is recording. I need to be able to access it when I am processing a video file so that I can pin point a video's recorded location on a map, or map out a route the device took on a map. This will all be done post processing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is similar to a previous [Action Camera question][1], but not exact. The main differences are the need for the built in GPS/metadata access and higher budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1463/57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13843" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4404" RevisionGUID="365d0c41-a52f-4034-8a97-cb493dc48168" CreationDate="2016-08-03T16:18:55.080" UserId="57" Text="Action Camera with built in GPS and mature API for programatic access to metadata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13844" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4404" RevisionGUID="365d0c41-a52f-4034-8a97-cb493dc48168" CreationDate="2016-08-03T16:18:55.080" UserId="57" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13845" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4404" RevisionGUID="4df1740d-0a25-4b88-a7b1-20d1cd417eae" CreationDate="2016-08-03T16:22:04.793" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking for an action camera that has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPS built in&#xD;&#xA; - All metadata (mainly GPS) needs to be accessible via an API. I need to be able to pull this metadata for any point in a video. &#xD;&#xA; - At least 1080p video; the faster the framerate the better&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to be mountable (I am planning on attaching this to a drone or gimbal with GoPro mounts)&#xD;&#xA; - Still photos are a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need an LCD&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to be waterproof&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My budget for this is approximately $450. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Access to the metadata does not need to be possible while it is recording. I need to be able to access it when I am processing a video file so that I can pin point a video's recorded location on a map, or map out a route the device took on a map. This will all be done post processing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is similar to a previous [Action Camera question][1], but not exact. The main differences are the need for the built in GPS/metadata access and higher budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1463/57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13846" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="fc27f85a-f469-4bbf-8c52-7d9caae505f5" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:36:47.623" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="ec5dc250-d995-4565-b898-53baea337641" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:42:28.717" UserId="155" Comment="Moved budget to body text" Text="I am looking for a laptop which can withstand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sqoop queries.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Db's like Oracle or MySQL   &#xD;&#xA; 4. Eclipse IDE for JAVA.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Documentation work(MSWord,MSExcel,MSPowerpoint).&#xD;&#xA; 6. VMWare&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these things will be running mostly at same time.&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 options:-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i5 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA; 2. i7 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 8GB enough to run Hadoop as a multi node system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 45k INR (~670 USD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13848" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="ec5dc250-d995-4565-b898-53baea337641" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:42:28.717" UserId="155" Comment="Moved budget to body text" Text="Hardware Configuration required to run Multi Node Hadoop on a Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4401" RevisionGUID="f954bd75-7f79-4419-8dd2-4c397744da53" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:48:11.130" UserId="8" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop which can withstand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Hadoop multi node installation&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sqoop queries.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Db's like Oracle or MySQL   &#xD;&#xA; 4. Eclipse IDE for JAVA.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Documentation work(MSWord,MSExcel,MSPowerpoint).&#xD;&#xA; 6. VMWare&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these things will be running mostly at same time.&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 options:-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. i5 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA; 2. i7 with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which has sufficient power and memory for these tasks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 45k INR (~670 USD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4405" RevisionGUID="b87ef0db-0c89-47b1-ae41-2c32bb5ab10a" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:37:27.123" UserId="4111" Text="I currently purchased a &quot;Sapphire 11244-01-20G Radeon NITRO R9 390 8GB GDDR5&quot; for a 2013 Mac Pro on El Capitan. Unfortunately it would take technical acrobatics to get it to work with the hardware, which I don't feel confident in doing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm fairly new to the hardware game, and would like some kind of modular guide to learning graphics card capabilities and compatibilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that this is a HUGE question, but all I'm asking for is a surface level guide that introduces the core concepts and provides the terminology to enable a mostly google savvy person to research the reasoning behind graphics card compatibility for differing systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4405" RevisionGUID="b87ef0db-0c89-47b1-ae41-2c32bb5ab10a" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:37:27.123" UserId="4111" Text="What to know to be able to effectively upgrade a graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4405" RevisionGUID="b87ef0db-0c89-47b1-ae41-2c32bb5ab10a" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:37:27.123" UserId="4111" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4406" RevisionGUID="ffcbfb60-bcda-4121-908e-6656da22d8ab" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:45:40.670" UserId="543" Text="Compatibility wise, your motherboard will need a PCI Express x16 slot. You need to make sure that it actually fits into the case, since some more powerful GPUs have fans to cool them, and can be fairly large. Lastly, you need to make sure that your power supply has enough headroom above what the existing components are drawing to power your graphics card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="47852b82-8b24-4445-ad30-ed732b617cde" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:45:14.103" UserId="153" Comment="removed unnecessary information and notation and fixed a few typos" Text="I am looking for a basic phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such a thing is still manufactured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life phones. Now they don't make phones (if they are even still in business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need Daul SIM, Wifi, BlueTooth, GPS, color screen, radio, not even music player; just calls &amp; texts (and those will be few, and far between).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question][1] looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIM, which I do not require.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13855" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="47852b82-8b24-4445-ad30-ed732b617cde" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:45:14.103" Comment="Proposed by 153 approved by 60, 57 edit id of 495" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="c3df7b3d-5f8f-44d2-814e-07c366b07e68" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:55:21.113" UserId="8" Comment="That information *was* actually pretty useful." Text="I am looking for a basic phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such a thing is still manufactured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life phones. Now they don't make phones (if they are even still in business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have fond memories of a small, grey, rubberized Nokia - was it an N45? - with a screen barely an inch in diagonal (just three lines of display), and I'd be glad of something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need Daul SIM, Wifi, BlueTooth, GPS, color screen, radio, not even music player; just calls &amp; texts (and those will be few, and far between).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question][1] looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIM, which I do not require.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1227" RevisionGUID="672b0833-b91a-4013-89bb-57f3274c8b69" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:02:18.960" UserId="8" Comment="edited body" Text="The only available option that I could find was [OwnFone][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![OwnFone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a customized phone that is made specially for the customer based on their order. They company intention is to provide our elders with an emergency easy to use phone however, it can be used a for children as well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Buttons can be images (or names) in case you child is too young to read&#xD;&#xA; - 999/emergency button is available &#xD;&#xA; - No text, no screen&#xD;&#xA; - Choices of 2, 4, 8 or 12 pre-programmed numbers depending on how much you willing to pay&#xD;&#xA; - Designed and works only in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Biggest downside is that the phone is not SIM-free and it seems you cant even replace the SIM or the battery so you are stuck with the plans offered to you by the company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cell phone can be bought from [this website](https://ageuk.myownfone.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** It's available for children now from [Mobile phones for children][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.smh.com.au/digital-life/mobiles/ownfone-phone-without-texting-camera-or-internet-pitches-to-parents-20140410-zqt2n.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Nuz2Z.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ownfone.com/children" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="8599bb18-7608-46e0-be2f-f6bf2a472d81" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:17:20.347" UserId="4111" Text="I want this card to be able to handle anything I throw at it. I handle multiple file types through the Adobe CC (video, audio, rasterized, vector, and library) simultaneously and have to support 3 monitors. I've already tried the &quot;Sapphire Radeon NITRO R9 390 8GB GDDR5&quot; but I couldn't get it to work without having to jump through hoops I didn't feel confident in jumping through. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's the specification for the computer][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/kb/SP652?locale=en_US&amp;viewlocale=en_US" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13859" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="8599bb18-7608-46e0-be2f-f6bf2a472d81" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:17:20.347" UserId="4111" Text="8GB graphics card upgrade for Mid 2012 Mac Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13860" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="8599bb18-7608-46e0-be2f-f6bf2a472d81" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:17:20.347" UserId="4111" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13861" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="34a8754a-e567-4188-823e-3fdb933a8161" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:48:46.217" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13862" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4405" RevisionGUID="1e5b9607-88cb-4b14-be60-dbe106ecf6b8" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:49:16.940" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="13863" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4408" RevisionGUID="fad5e326-7079-40e1-a227-235200071636" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:13:52.817" UserId="3980" Text="From Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[5200mAh Long Standby Rugged Mobile Phone with Waterproof Shockproof Dustproof Unlocked Phone for Elderly People Adventurers Army Cellphone(Black)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's $50, and can call and send/receive sms. 5200mAh battery w./ 72 hours talk time and 360 hours standby (as the manufacturer claims). I'm pretty sure the screen is color though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Shockproof-Dustproof-Adventurers-Cellphone/dp/B01CDUBEMC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470258439&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=simple%20phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="4410" RevisionGUID="c693b160-5618-4db0-8dbc-eddce67c8a12" CreationDate="2016-08-03T23:50:44.950" UserId="3980" Text="One way you might be able to accomplish your goal is buying purchasing any Canon Powershot Camera, let's say... the [sx510hs][1] and &quot;hack&quot; it with [CHDK][2]. You can download CHDK [here][3]. Unfortunately, most Canon Powershots mount using the &quot;standard&quot; 1/4&quot; 20 thread screw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if this is exactly what you are looking for, but with CHDK, you can run scripts that control the camera in LUA or BASIC on your camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps! :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-SX510-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B00EFILPHA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470268000&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sx50hs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/SX700&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://mighty-hoernsche.de/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13869" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4410" RevisionGUID="e5a18c9f-9ee3-4dd8-bd7f-aa3a06b6b18c" CreationDate="2016-08-03T23:55:48.217" UserId="3980" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="One way you might be able to accomplish your goal is buying purchasing any Canon Powershot Camera, let's say... the [sx510hs][1] and &quot;hack&quot; it with [CHDK][2]. You can download CHDK [here][3]. Unfortunately, most Canon Powershots mount using the &quot;standard&quot; 1/4&quot; 20 thread screw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if this is exactly what you are looking for, but with CHDK, you can run scripts that control the camera in LUA or BASIC on your camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps! :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-SX510-discontinued-manufacturer/dp/B00EFILPHA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470268000&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sx50hs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://mighty-hoernsche.de/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5413" RevisionGUID="b10481df-370e-43d0-9454-8a49f7910427" CreationDate="2016-08-04T12:06:48.770" UserId="4118" Text="I use a Jabra Speak 510, very good sound quality, can do much more than just speaker but a little expensive (about 100€)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="3d0a7ae5-b11d-4a98-9504-d128974f60bd" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:25:24.233" UserId="4109" Comment="edited title" Text="Which is best RAM for me to buy(since there are two different costing which another seller gave)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14889" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="4a31bc43-32ce-48cf-ad0b-184d5be201be" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:22:05.127" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14890" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="4402" RevisionGUID="411da878-4e4e-4efb-8f6f-3caea7241ca9" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:22:09.813" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14891" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="bea7f1ab-886b-46cc-bbec-1ff303b5e8a5" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:24:22.230" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 33 characters in body" Text="I am using Keras with Theano backend. Until now I have used aws ec2 GPU instances for train my keras network. As my experiments become larger - my network trains become longer and my bills become bigger. I calculated that good workstation would be a better investment then renting aws ec2 GPU instances on the cloud. I am copying components of NVIDIA DIGITS DevBox (https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox), except there are new GPUs on the market, so I have couple of question about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it better, for deep learning, to buy four GTX 1080 or dual Titan X Pascal (specs - http://wccftech.com/nvidia-new-titan-x-pascal-performance/)? Four GTX 1080s give me 10240 CUDA cores with boost speed @1733mhz, 32GB of GDDR5X VRAM and 36 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute. For the same price dual TITAN X Pascal will give me 7168 CUDA cores boost clock @ 1530mhz, 24 VRAM GDDR5X, and 22 TFLOPs of FP32Compute.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan of using multiple GPUs is train same model with different parameters on different GPUs, to see which combination of parameters is most effective. I need the GPU solution that is most efficient for this type of usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your answers, and I hoping for good discussion. Sorry if bad english. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="314f2a52-00e1-474a-bab5-1ee8e7d3de39" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:24:38.700" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14895" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4069" RevisionGUID="c6318115-4b71-41b2-b796-4c93c76e0f6b" CreationDate="2016-08-04T16:03:28.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="14899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5416" RevisionGUID="19a00cc2-068b-46f5-b11d-b37527b0fa49" CreationDate="2016-08-04T16:41:46.593" UserId="3836" Text="As long as electrical bills are not a problem and you're going to get more than one GPU anyway, you should **get the four GTX 1080s**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason this is the better choice is because it provides better flops per dollar amount than any other option (at least on the Nvidia side; a real pity that Theano only seems to see OpenCL work on CPU for the future; AMD options could really go to town if the work could be given to them in an OpenCL format).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Theano uses FP32 calculations, and it can [support multiple GPUs][1] (still somewhat experimentally).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One final thing to note: the GTX 1080 uses DDR5 for its vRAM, not the DDR5X as earlier speculated. AFAIK the same should be true for the Pascal Titans. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An edge case where I might be wrong about this would be if you were going to be usually running fewer than 3 parameter sets simultaneously, because then the two more powerful Titans would be a better choice. I think that will ultimately end up being very unlikely, however, so I'm not going to let it influence my answer. If OP knows otherwise he should definitely speak up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://deeplearning.net/software/theano/tutorial/using_multi_gpu.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5417" RevisionGUID="1e20eb9a-4cec-4155-ade4-a06f4e4471e0" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:32:07.757" UserId="3836" Text="I am a big fan of my old G80-8200, which you can find on ebay.de for around the price you're buying at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can get past the useless card scanner, there's a lot to like about this keyboard - fully reprogrammable keys, lots of extra function keys you can assign stuff to, and lots of clear caps so you can define your own illustrations for your caps. In addition, there are editions of this keyboard which come with the excellent Brown switches, which as others have noted, are similar to your clears. Of course, since these are Cherry MX switches we're talking about, keep in mind that if you MUST have clear switches, it's possible to [buy a switch set][3] and [swap out the old switches for your new clear set][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-104-key-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8ZuNY.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Genuine-CHERRY-MX-Clear-Keyswitch-Microswitch-Keyboard-Mechanical-Switches-/111964563817?hash=item1a119ba969:g:iuUAAOSwn51UY4C4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GivKt63dLvA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5420" RevisionGUID="a9857219-daeb-4859-b413-3d96d2330dbc" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:11:10.330" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5421" RevisionGUID="b878a87a-908d-4c3e-b178-906974892e2c" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:11:10.330" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14911" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="2b2d58dc-ec2f-47f1-9998-d5d29a934fae" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:12:45.213" UserId="1410" Text="I was playing the old &quot;confuse the cat with a flash-light&quot; game, when I thought that I might like to program a confuse-a-cat robot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something, probably with tracks, which can right itself if he flips it over, and which I can program to move randomly around a room, turning at walls, making an occasional sound or flashing a light.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am on a very tight budget, I wondered if there is some cheap kit which I can program ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arduino, Raspberry Pi, any platform, so long as it is programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="2b2d58dc-ec2f-47f1-9998-d5d29a934fae" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:12:45.213" UserId="1410" Text="Seeking dirt cheap, wheeled, programmable robot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="2b2d58dc-ec2f-47f1-9998-d5d29a934fae" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:12:45.213" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5420" RevisionGUID="393026c8-67ab-4b05-942b-d427a38d17d6" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:21:36.050" UserId="1410" Comment="added 552 characters in body" Text="A Subscriber Identity Module (SIM) card is a portable memory chip used mostly in cell phones that operate on the Global System for Mobile Communications (GSM) network. These cards hold the personal information of the account holder, including his or her phone number, address book, text messages, and other data. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When a user wants to change phones, he or she can usually easily remove the card from one handset and insert it into another. SIM cards are convenient and popular with many users, and are a key part of developing cell phone technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5420" RevisionGUID="393026c8-67ab-4b05-942b-d427a38d17d6" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:21:36.050" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 155 edit id of 497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5421" RevisionGUID="65561929-7ac7-4c8f-8df0-6fa3383aaa6b" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:22:21.993" UserId="1410" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="Use this for questions related to th SIM card of mobile devices.e" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5421" RevisionGUID="65561929-7ac7-4c8f-8df0-6fa3383aaa6b" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:22:21.993" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by -1 edit id of 498" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5421" RevisionGUID="e4e18715-2276-4dde-932d-d512eebb1e65" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:22:21.993" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="For questions about mobile device SIM cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="ceeaaab1-2c48-4540-a48f-6b5f31fd8888" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:23:21.513" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14920" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="d9708188-1c6f-4d42-9bc8-bc0827b5f86e" CreationDate="2016-08-05T08:13:57.787" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5425" RevisionGUID="a2914872-cd9b-4a83-8028-c44e94ad76e0" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:56:17.340" UserId="1275" Text="I would like to know, is it possible for a smartphone attached to an arm to catch an epileptic seizure by using the heartbeat or other sensor and automating a phone call or sms when the seizure occurs based on the blood rate? If not, then can this be done by attaching a brain scan helmet our hat accessory connected via Bluetooth to the mobile phone?&#xA;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5425" RevisionGUID="a2914872-cd9b-4a83-8028-c44e94ad76e0" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:56:17.340" UserId="1275" Text="Smartphone accessories/software for catching epileptic seizures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5425" RevisionGUID="a2914872-cd9b-4a83-8028-c44e94ad76e0" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:56:17.340" UserId="1275" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;brain-computer-interface&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5426" RevisionGUID="ea5a5549-09e1-4e0a-a601-57c0c0e3424e" CreationDate="2016-08-05T14:49:27.253" UserId="3836" Text="Oh my, a question targeting my hardware experience AND my more than passing interest in cognitive science!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a friend who is currently dying from Muscular Dystrophy. In the end stage of this disease, he is barely able to move any part of his body. He and I investigated several consumer-grade EEG devices as a means of him controlling computers (none ended up working for him as well as voice command). In the course of that investigation, we initially rejected the **[NeuroSky MindWave Headset][1]**, but I am returning to it now as an ideal solution to *your* problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it has a pretty crappy sensor configuration, it is my understanding that seizures are large events which any EEG machine should be able to detect relatively easily. The upside to this machine is that it is cheap and relatively unobtrusive compared to other available brands. Moreover, this device is able to interface with mobile devices via bluetooth and does have a [developer's kit app for Android][2] available for purchase. I'm not going to go into how you solve the software side of this problem, because this is a hardware recommendation only (as befits the site), but I trust since you are inquiring you'll know where to go from here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/NeuroSky-80013-001-MindWave-Headset/dp/B00A2UQUXY/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470408138&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=mindwave%20mobile&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.neurosky.com/collections/android" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5427" RevisionGUID="1442174f-d8e7-4d6f-a4a5-2f06d322537e" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:12:16.437" UserId="3836" Text="I recommend the **[AMD FirePro W7100 Professional Graphics Card][1]**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It supports 4 monitors&#xD;&#xA; - It has 8gb DDR5 vRAM&#xD;&#xA; - Since it is not made by an OEM we can expect it to conform to AMD spec that hackintosh is relying on in order for it to work&#xD;&#xA; - It is rated for less than 150W TDP, so it fits within the 300W envelope your Mac Pro is rated for - you could even have two of them&#xD;&#xA; - Since it is a pro card it is particularly suited to the type of work you are doing and is very stable and well-supported compared to gaming cards like the R9 390&#xD;&#xA; - It is not hideously expensive compared to other, better FirePro cards available&#xD;&#xA; - It is relatively new, so you shouldn't miss out on any newer features like VCE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1108354-REG/amd_100_505724_firepro_w7100_8gb_gddr5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="6ec29fcf-f6bd-4146-89b9-f378aff37c21" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:59:10.210" UserId="1275" Text="I would like to know whether it is possible to attach something such as a special NFC sticker to a rib to detect its up and down motion during breathing so that, for instance, if a person has asthma or any other breathing related problem which could cause the person to become dizzy or faint then the phone attached via Bluetooth or similar protocol could make the phone emit a loud beeping sound to attract others' attention and automatically initiate a phone call or sms to a person on the ICE list." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="6ec29fcf-f6bd-4146-89b9-f378aff37c21" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:59:10.210" UserId="1275" Text="Android devices/gadgets for monitoring breathing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="6ec29fcf-f6bd-4146-89b9-f378aff37c21" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:59:10.210" UserId="1275" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14932" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="1be827ce-c999-47a5-95b2-a407c2a807a6" CreationDate="2016-08-05T16:30:22.777" UserId="8" Comment="Reworded to bring it more obviously on-topic." Text="I'm looking for an NFC sticker that can be stuck onto someone's rib, that can be used to detect the motion of the rib. This would be used to work out breathing patterns and abnormalities to enable a device to send an emergency alert in case of breathing difficulties. It must be compatible with Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="1be827ce-c999-47a5-95b2-a407c2a807a6" CreationDate="2016-08-05T16:30:22.777" UserId="8" Comment="Reworded to bring it more obviously on-topic." Text="NFC motion sticker for monitoring breathing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5429" RevisionGUID="ddd08ec7-2626-4cd0-9264-5d7aaded3601" CreationDate="2016-08-06T04:18:42.300" UserId="4057" Text="First of all, I have to say, on this topic, I definitely agree with Adam Wykes who had made a comment earlier that parts in prebuilt computers are not always chosen in the best configuration and that building a computer yourself would get you a better price to performance ratio, talkless of you getting the advantage of choosing what parts you would like to save on and which ones you would like to pick a really high-end one of. Besides it might be intimidating at first but it is honestly not that hard to build a pc...&#xA;&#xA;However, I am guessing you heard this enough and your question was very straight forward, you asked for a perbuilt desktop.&#xA;&#xA;Now, I also don't think (solely based on what you said you were going to use the pc for) that you need 4GB of VRAM but if you do for some specific reason here you go:&#xA;&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883227670&#xA;&#xA;Though, I realize the included mouse and keyboard combo makes the device look really cheap, keep in mind that iBUYPOWER PC is a really reputable brand, and even if it was not the parts are only put together by them not made by them.&#xA;&#xA;Now, if you getting 4GB of VRAM wasnt a necessity for you you could get a computer that still offers a great performance but does not push the limits of tour budget as much like this:&#xA;&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883102038&#xA;&#xA;This is one of those rare prebuilt desktops that are actually worth their price and also offer a good configuration of components.&#xA;&#xA;Also, I was surprised that nobody else in the comment section found anything like these, so I would like to apoplogize in advance if I missed any of your criteria that the above linked computers might not meet. I do not know how international shipping can be arranged with newegg, but I'm sure it can be solved somehow." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="11521da5-2402-4879-800b-168b4bd6aa69" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:58:25.540" UserId="1410" Comment="added 660 characters in body" Text="I was playing the old &quot;confuse the cat with a flash-light&quot; game, when I thought that I might like to program a confuse-a-cat robot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something, probably with tracks, which can right itself if he flips it over, and which I can program to move randomly around a room, turning at walls, making an occasional sound or flashing a light.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am on a very tight budget, I wondered if there is some cheap kit which I can program ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arduino, Raspberry Pi, any platform, so long as it is programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] my budget is $50, but the less, the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I get this unheld? It is held as too broad, but I don't really know what I can say, other than:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - budget $50&#xD;&#xA; - programmable&#xD;&#xA; - autonomous &#xD;&#xA; - wheeled or tracked&#xD;&#xA; - can somehow sense obstacles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What more can I add? Battery operated, I guess. I didn't actually state that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What else? Am I supposed to state the programming language, or require an SDK/API?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Robust &amp; cat-proof? :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Really, I think that I have stated it all. Would one holders please be so kind as to tell me how I Can improve the question and make it acceptable? Thanks. I really would like an answer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="e7c319da-cbe0-4909-8114-989dbb8bc807" CreationDate="2016-08-06T11:07:46.623" UserId="4130" Text="I plan to use one of the new Thunderbolt 3 external GPU enclosures to connect a GTX 1070 to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the video card of the laptop itself is unimportant, so I'm hoping to save some $$ by getting a laptop with a good CPU but a mediocre graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it has to have good cooling, because a CPU like a 6700HQ can still really cook. So, probably an ultra-thin laptop is not going to cut it. Good ventilation is crucial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, when I say cheap, I mean awesome quality, but less money than an awesome quality top-of-the-line gaming laptop. Probably an ASUS, Gigabyte, Lenovo or Toshiba, and something sporting a GTX 965 or worse would probably be fit the bill." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="e7c319da-cbe0-4909-8114-989dbb8bc807" CreationDate="2016-08-06T11:07:46.623" UserId="4130" Text="Looking for a cheap skylake laptop with full-speed thunderbolt 3 and good cooling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="e7c319da-cbe0-4909-8114-989dbb8bc807" CreationDate="2016-08-06T11:07:46.623" UserId="4130" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5433" RevisionGUID="5e9deefc-8233-44be-b904-eb5a8751eaca" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:47:59.933" UserId="4132" Text="There's a video card that I want to buy (Asus ROG STRIX 1080 GTX) that comes as a regular version (A8G, which I believe is already overclocked compared to the default OEM specs) and an overclocked version 08G. I believe both ship with an easy to use overclocking software program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latter is actually only slightly more expensive in terms of MSRP. However, because of the lack of availability, it tends to be much more expensive than the A8G version. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a reason to pay the premium for the 08G or is the A8G expected to reach the same frequencies after manual overclocking without any further drawbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5433" RevisionGUID="5e9deefc-8233-44be-b904-eb5a8751eaca" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:47:59.933" UserId="4132" Text="Is there a good argument to buying the more-expensive overclocked version of a particular video/graphics card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5433" RevisionGUID="5e9deefc-8233-44be-b904-eb5a8751eaca" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:47:59.933" UserId="4132" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5434" RevisionGUID="46e4e507-6c12-43e0-974e-2094ba5e494d" CreationDate="2016-08-06T19:03:10.427" UserId="476" Text="So, there's no budget, so I'm going to stay below $1500. If you have a specific price point to stay below, please comment and I will add more answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15 9550][1]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1400&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** i7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA; - **Disk:** 256GB PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** GTX 960M&#xD;&#xA; - **Size:** 15.6&quot; screen, 13.3&quot; chassis.&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen:** 1920 x 1080 (Not IPS!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1:** Other configurations available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop-b/pd#!tnt-configs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5435" RevisionGUID="ab5b648b-d0bf-47b7-a65e-9d27d37a494e" CreationDate="2016-08-06T19:06:21.990" UserId="3836" Text="They are not expected to reach the same frequencies, though for most overclockers it is close enough that a significant price difference is not warranted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In silicon chip manufacturing there is a process called *binning*, wherein tests at the factory sort chips according to the quality of their manufacture. The highest quality chips - the highest &quot;binned&quot; examples - are the ones which will respond most positively to overclocking, because they don't skirt the QA lines on any of their specifications. Those chips are usually not simply thrown back in with the rest of the batch and sold so that some customers get lucky with OCing and others don't - the higher binned chips are used to create the higher-tier SKUs, and within those SKUs, the best of the best are used to create the OEM overclocked models. Those chips are the ones which stand the best possible chance of being monstrously good overclockers - the only pitfall some people fall into is in thinking that the factory overclock indicates the percentage by which they will beat more conventional SKUs - this not an accurate way of thinking, because sometimes OEMs are able to set factory OCs very close to the upper limit of the part's capability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last thing to consider is that the OC'd models of GPU often receive some of the best addons an OEM can offer - better caps, better software, backplates, and better cooling solutions. All of that combines to add value to the more expensive models. In some cases, you can see crazy things like OC'd R9 270s outperforming R9 270Xs as a result of this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing to keep in mind when all is said and done, however is this: are you the type of person to worry over your GPU's clockspeed for several weeks, tweaking it and testing it meticulously until you have achieved the best possible result? If not, it probably makes more sense to go for the similar but cheaper model. Factory OCs on their own usually do not offer a sufficient value increase to justify the premiums they are sold at. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend the slower, cheaper version of the card unless you are very passionate about overclocking." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5433" RevisionGUID="4ad9f5f1-cc5b-4f83-bf0d-924a58325fbe" CreationDate="2016-08-06T19:38:53.170" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14960" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="042915ef-1734-4768-9769-05d03e7678e1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T01:45:34.677" UserId="4130" Comment="added 284 characters in body" Text="I plan to use one of the new Thunderbolt 3 external GPU enclosures to connect a GTX 1070 to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the video card of the laptop itself is unimportant, so I'm hoping to save some $$ by getting a laptop with a good CPU but a mediocre graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it has to have good cooling, because a CPU like a 6700HQ can still really cook. So, probably an ultra-thin laptop is not going to cut it. Good ventilation is crucial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, when I say cheap, I mean awesome quality, but less money than an awesome quality top-of-the-line gaming laptop. Probably an ASUS, Gigabyte, Lenovo or Toshiba, and something sporting a GTX 965 or worse would probably be fit the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd really like to see at least one option from the above brands. I probably should have said &quot;must be&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is relative. If there's a Gigabyte laptop which fits the bill and is cheaper than the equivalent Gigabyte laptop with beefy graphics, then we're winning." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5434" RevisionGUID="9a734854-70e7-4a5a-abb9-0025746f86f4" CreationDate="2016-08-07T02:45:11.710" UserId="476" Comment="added 362 characters in body" Text="So, there's no budget, so I'm going to stay below $1500. If you have a specific price point to stay below, please comment and I will add more answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15 9550][1]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1400&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** i7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA; - **Disk:** 256GB PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** GTX 960M&#xD;&#xA; - **Size:** 15.6&quot; screen, 13.3&quot; chassis.&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen:** 1920 x 1080, no touch (touch available) (Not IPS!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Razer Blade Stealth][2]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1150&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** i7-6500U&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8GB DDR3-1866&#xD;&#xA; - **Disk:** 256GB PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** Intel HD Graphics 520&#xD;&#xA; - **Size:** 12.5&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen:** 3200 x 1800 IGZO, multi-touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Other configurations available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop-b/pd#!tnt-configs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/razer-blade-stealth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="22449907-758e-43bb-906e-eff0873efe80" CreationDate="2016-08-07T03:48:21.623" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="fa865b8a-59bf-4125-a9e9-efc086350a2d" CreationDate="2016-08-07T04:32:29.667" UserId="4130" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I plan to use one of the new Thunderbolt 3 external GPU enclosures to connect a GTX 1070 to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the video card of the laptop itself is unimportant, so I'm hoping to save some $$ by getting a laptop with a good CPU but a mediocre graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it has to have good cooling, because a CPU like a 6700HQ can still really cook. So, probably an ultra-thin laptop is not going to cut it. Good ventilation is crucial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, when I say cheap, I mean awesome quality, but less money than an awesome quality top-of-the-line gaming laptop. Probably an ASUS, Gigabyte, Lenovo or Toshiba, and something sporting a GTX 965 or worse would probably be fit the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd really like to see at least one option from the above brands. I probably should have said &quot;must be&quot;. Also it should be an HQ or HK CPU or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is relative. If there's a Gigabyte laptop which fits the bill and is cheaper than the equivalent Gigabyte laptop with beefy graphics, then we're winning." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5431" RevisionGUID="7c099a8c-16f7-4afc-8f1b-6b79d75ca592" CreationDate="2016-08-07T04:53:17.063" UserId="4130" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I plan to use one of the new Thunderbolt 3 external GPU enclosures to connect a GTX 1070 to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously the video card of the laptop itself is unimportant, so I'm hoping to save some $$ by getting a laptop with a good CPU but a mediocre graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it has to have good cooling, because a CPU like a 6700HQ can still really cook. So, probably an ultra-thin laptop is not going to cut it. Good ventilation is crucial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, when I say cheap, I mean awesome quality, but less money than an awesome quality top-of-the-line gaming laptop. Probably an ASUS, Gigabyte, Lenovo or Alienware, and something sporting a GTX 965 or worse would probably be fit the bill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd really like to see at least one option from the above brands. I probably should have said &quot;must be&quot;. Also it should be an HQ or HK CPU or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is relative. If there's a Gigabyte laptop which fits the bill and is cheaper than the equivalent Gigabyte laptop with beefy graphics, then we're winning." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="27d25531-9ca9-4fc2-8c9f-aa6a7600825f" CreationDate="2016-08-07T11:14:45.313" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 264 characters in body" Text="I was playing the old &quot;confuse the cat with a flash-light&quot; game, when I thought that I might like to program a confuse-a-cat robot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something, probably with tracks, which can right itself if he flips it over, and which I can program to move randomly around a room, turning at walls, making an occasional sound or flashing a light.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am on a very tight budget, I wondered if there is some cheap kit which I can program ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arduino, Raspberry Pi, any platform, so long as it is programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] my budget is $50, but the less, the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I get this unheld? It is held as too broad, but I don't really know what I can say, other than:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - budget $50&#xD;&#xA; - programmable&#xD;&#xA; - autonomous &#xD;&#xA; - wheeled or tracked&#xD;&#xA; - can somehow sense obstacles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What more can I add? Battery operated, I guess. I didn't actually state that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What else? Robust &amp; cat-proof? :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5434" RevisionGUID="40c39385-fa03-4fb9-a2ce-ac0a1832fc11" CreationDate="2016-08-07T14:27:40.083" UserId="476" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="So, there's no budget, so I'm going to stay below $1500. If you have a specific price point to stay below, please comment and I will add more answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15 9550][1]&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1400&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** i7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA; - **Disk:** 256GB PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** GTX 960M&#xD;&#xA; - **Size:** 15.6&quot; screen, 13.3&quot; chassis.&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen:** 1920 x 1080, no touch (touch available) (Not IPS!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Razer Blade Stealth][2]&lt;sup&gt;1 2&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1150&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** i7-6500U&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8GB DDR3-1866&#xD;&#xA; - **Disk:** 256GB PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** Intel HD Graphics 520&#xD;&#xA; - **Size:** 12.5&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen:** 3200 x 1800 IGZO, multi-touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Other configurations available. &lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;This question was edited after I wrote this answer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop-b/pd#!tnt-configs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/razer-blade-stealth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5440" RevisionGUID="64fb4f30-652b-46ee-9038-232d50512184" CreationDate="2016-08-07T18:37:03.123" UserId="4136" Text="I would like to build a portable NAS (with one hard drive of I think 4TB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this I need a small, low power SBC with SATA and Ethernet (one of each). Bonus if it has an integrated Li-ion controller. Bonus if it doesnt have a crapload of unnecessary features/connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Raspnerry Pi doesnt have enough performance (the limiting factors are USB 2.0 and crappy Ethernet, I think) and mATX/mITX boards are too large. What can you recommend for maximum data throughput? I would like to get at least 40MB/s actual real world throughput." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5440" RevisionGUID="64fb4f30-652b-46ee-9038-232d50512184" CreationDate="2016-08-07T18:37:03.123" UserId="4136" Text="SBC for portable NAS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5440" RevisionGUID="64fb4f30-652b-46ee-9038-232d50512184" CreationDate="2016-08-07T18:37:03.123" UserId="4136" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14981" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5442" RevisionGUID="975b5774-1b9d-469d-86e6-e92312131d83" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:04:22.370" UserId="4138" Text="I want to build an Intel i3 6100 PC. I don't play games at all. Usually, i use the PC 24/7. I do lot of internet surfing and downloading. Sometimes, i use photoshop, i do audio remixing and other normal stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I am very much enthusiastic about entertainment. So mainly i want to build a budget PC for listening to FLAC/MP3 and watching BLURAY movies. I already have a huge data of 4TB. So please suggest me a good MOTHERBOARD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am very much concerned about heat and noise issues. I want my PC to be quiet and works silently. So please suggest me affordable components like -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. SILENT DEEP COOLING HEATSINK&#xD;&#xA;2. SILENT PSU&#xD;&#xA;3. SILENT COOLING FANS &amp; CASE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC should be durable according to my 24/7 usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC budget is $500 Thanks!!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5442" RevisionGUID="975b5774-1b9d-469d-86e6-e92312131d83" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:04:22.370" UserId="4138" Text="Intel i3 6100 compatible components for a non gamer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14983" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5442" RevisionGUID="975b5774-1b9d-469d-86e6-e92312131d83" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:04:22.370" UserId="4138" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5442" RevisionGUID="8d94c53b-c497-470c-ac86-f5a9f0bc7dd7" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:22:02.403" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="14985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5443" RevisionGUID="e887b62d-3564-477f-bba0-4ca3b289ccef" CreationDate="2016-08-08T02:44:04.373" UserId="4139" Text="I am a hobbyist programmer and light gamer, and I'm in the market for a new computer. I don't know anything about hardware. I've looked at the Alienware website (as they are the only high-end computers I've heard of), but I've heard you're mostly paying for frills, and I don't need anything flashy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to web-browsing, I'll be using it for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Programming (Mostly Python)&#xD;&#xA; - Blender&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Premiere and Photoshop&#xD;&#xA; - Some light gaming (I'm an occasional gamer... nothing too intense)&#xD;&#xA; - Unity Game Development &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows&#xD;&#xA; - A Big Screen (my current screen is 17.3 inches, which is perfect)&#xD;&#xA; - A Numpad&#xD;&#xA; - VGA and HDMI outputs&#xD;&#xA; - SD Card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Something under $1000. I can go higher if I have to.&#xD;&#xA; - Many, many USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - Decent battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Something that can take a beating&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't have to look flashy, and I don't care about name brands. I'd like it to last for several years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5443" RevisionGUID="e887b62d-3564-477f-bba0-4ca3b289ccef" CreationDate="2016-08-08T02:44:04.373" UserId="4139" Text="Good Programming and Editing Computer for Under $1000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5443" RevisionGUID="e887b62d-3564-477f-bba0-4ca3b289ccef" CreationDate="2016-08-08T02:44:04.373" UserId="4139" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="219c4d42-10c7-41ff-b8ab-c25111b8f89d" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:01:25.037" UserId="3902" Comment="36" />
  <row Id="14993" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="3ef8431c-04b3-4d4e-a0f1-91c4697150c4" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:39:54.733" UserId="1371" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality while allows using it with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="3ef8431c-04b3-4d4e-a0f1-91c4697150c4" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:39:54.733" UserId="1371" Text="Laptop-sized Keyboard without keypad with Bluetooth, Wireless, &amp; Wired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="3ef8431c-04b3-4d4e-a0f1-91c4697150c4" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:39:54.733" UserId="1371" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="71e0702c-43e1-445c-a7d0-135fb2fb2048" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:45:54.093" UserId="1371" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality while allows using it with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asking for too much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14997" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5440" RevisionGUID="f26b3e4c-2be1-4dfd-b479-821ff8ed0e4f" CreationDate="2016-08-08T14:45:32.753" UserId="4136" Comment="added more details" Text="I would like to build a portable NAS (with one hard drive of I think 4TB). I need a full Linux and I don't want to fiddle around too much to make it work (no patching and compiling my own kernels and stuff like that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this I need a small (say like two 2.5&quot; drives on top of each other, plus at most 50%), low power (not more than 3W idle, preferably less) SBC with SATA (one port, preferably III, II is okay too, doesn't need 12V, just for 2.5&quot; drives) and Ethernet (Gigabit). Bonus if it has an integrated Li-ion controller (or if you know some separate Li-Ion battery controller board for 5V uninterruptible output) . Bonus if it doesnt have a crapload of unnecessary features/connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Raspnerry Pi doesnt have enough performance (the limiting factors are USB 2.0 and crappy Ethernet, I think) and mATX/mITX boards are too large. What can you recommend for maximum data throughput? I would like to get at least 40MB/s actual real world throughput.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be as cheap as possible. That said, as long as it's significantly cheaper than buying a laptop and ripping off / not using the screen, it's okay. If there is a ready to use NAS (without hard drive/empty enclosure) like that I'm fine with that too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5446" RevisionGUID="3e4aaaa4-3d79-407f-a914-196413783f0b" CreationDate="2016-08-08T17:04:04.543" UserId="4142" Text="I used laptops for a while and I am not up to date with the current available hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a new PC mainly for Neural Network computations and some gaming from time to time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rig mainly needs strong Graphic Cards for OpenCL/CUDA computations. The CPU must not bottleneck the GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My target is to have a very upgradable workstation and install a relativly cheap CPU and Graphic Card. I want to upgrade the CPU when needed, so the socket should be somewhat futureproof or at least not already outdated. Maybe the i5-6600K on socket 1151 is what I need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a single Graphic Card for now and add more once my Neural Network research progresses. The Motherboard should have at least 4 PCIe slots, at least two of them PCIe x16. That should be enougth room for Graphic Card expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to be able to upgrade to at least 64 GB of fast DDR4 RAM, but will use 16 GB for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the Software I use for my Neural Network research has no support for AMD cards and requireds nvidias CUDA. So I have to buy nvidia cards. SLI is not needed, since the Cards can run those computations as individual units and Gaming is no priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if a consumer mainboard fits my needs well enough. Maybe a Serverboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm targeting a bugdet of below 1500€ (~$1660) for its first configuration.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5446" RevisionGUID="3e4aaaa4-3d79-407f-a914-196413783f0b" CreationDate="2016-08-08T17:04:04.543" UserId="4142" Text="Upgradable Neural Network workstation on a budget of &lt;1500€ (&lt;$1660) for its first configuration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5446" RevisionGUID="3e4aaaa4-3d79-407f-a914-196413783f0b" CreationDate="2016-08-08T17:04:04.543" UserId="4142" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5447" RevisionGUID="0a18eb11-c276-4dab-bc49-0ef1ca981b63" CreationDate="2016-08-08T19:49:59.687" UserId="3836" Text="Your question fundamentally breaks down to which motherboard you should go with, because the motherboard will determine the CPU, GPU(s), RAM, and everything else. I'm going to recommend, therefore, that you go with a **dual socket 2011 board**, like this [ASRock EP2C612D16C-4L SSI EEB Server Motherboard][1], though any other board like it would probably do as well for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These boards support a LOT of PCI-E throughput - this particular model supports 3x 16x slots and 2x 8x slots, in a configuration that would allow you to run up to three double-height cards without risers, with the caveat that the top card would need to be an ITX version of whatever card you wanted - these cards are available without a huge price bump for the most of the recent Nvidia GTX lineups. Furthermore, this board supports the socket 2011 HPC Xeon CPUs, which offer extremely performative CPUs with lots of threads for massive parallel work. An example configuration would be something like [this][2], where CPU slot 2 is left open and can be [filled later][3] (the CPUs are cheapest on the used market - *[vastly cheaper, actually][4]*). Finally, unlike some other socket 2011 boards, this one does run on DDR4 spec RAM, so that's in line with your request. As it is, it can support up to a theoretical maximum of 1Tb RAM, but more realistically about 512Gb. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, this CPU sits near the absolute top of the performance charts, unless you start getting into E7 Xeons and POWER8/9, I think, and it certainly enjoys a fantastic price/performance ratio thanks to the flood of parts on the used market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157606&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/W8D4d6&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.servethehome.com/answered-cpu-dual-processor-motherboard/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2695-V2-ES-QDDK-2-3GHz-30MB-L3-22nm-12Core-Max-Turbo-2-9Ghz-115W-/401165660661?hash=item5d675631f5:g:DM4AAOSwtnpXpFSm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5429" RevisionGUID="ab0b2176-af21-497e-a45f-b27f2788abb6" CreationDate="2016-08-08T21:15:11.827" UserId="8" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="First of all, I have to say, on this topic, I definitely agree with Adam Wykes who had made a comment earlier that parts in prebuilt computers are not always chosen in the best configuration and that building a computer yourself would get you a better price to performance ratio, to say nothing of you getting the advantage of choosing what parts you would like to save on and which ones you would like to pick a really high-end one of. Besides it might be intimidating at first but it is honestly not that hard to build a PC...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I am guessing you heard this enough and your question was very straight forward, you asked for a prebuilt desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I also don't think (solely based on what you said you were going to use the PC for) that you need 4 GB of VRAM but if you do for some specific reason here you go:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883227670&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though, I realize the included mouse and keyboard combo makes the device look really cheap, keep in mind that iBUYPOWER PC is a really reputable brand, and even if it was not the parts are only put together by them not made by them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, if you getting 4 GB of VRAM wasn't a necessity for you you could get a computer that still offers a great performance but does not push the limits of tour budget as much like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883102038&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is one of those rare prebuilt desktops that are actually worth their price and also offer a good configuration of components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I was surprised that nobody else in the comment section found anything like these, so I would like to apologize in advance if I missed any of your criteria that the above linked computers might not meet. I do not know how international shipping can be arranged with newegg, but I'm sure it can be solved somehow." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15010" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5448" RevisionGUID="bbea4a58-87b6-486d-83f5-8c500e5c850e" CreationDate="2016-08-08T21:21:23.453" UserId="3836" Text="So I know of a local shop called *MinMax Custom PCs* that will build a *very small* ITX system called the &quot;**MinMax C70-ITX**&quot; that probably does meet your needs; I've specced it out as best as I can tell from what they told me - they don't have a a website except for [this][1], or else I'd link you to their own product description - they include a USB stick and USB wireless card as part of their product that I'm not including here in my description, and they sell the whole shebang for $160. What follows is my best attempt to reverse-engineer their design so you can see what kind of system they're offering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/f4D3Z8&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/f4D3Z8/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU:  Integrated with Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASRock C70M1 Mini ITX C-Series C-70 Motherboard  ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Crucial 2GB (1 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($10.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Other:  PicoPSU-80 + 60W Adapter Power Kit ($35.00)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: New 4 Pin IDE Male Molex to Dual SATA Y Splitter Female HDD Power Adapter Cable ($0.75)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure by Mini-Box Black ($38.63)&#xD;&#xA;    Total: $125.36&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 17:15 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For whatever it's worth, the M350 really is *tiny* compared to every other ITX box you've ever seen, so they really hit that part of the design out of the park. It's not much bigger than the ITX board itself, and it uses a laptop charger to power the PC instead of a standard ATX PSU, which can be quite bulky (and inefficient) in comparison. It's also fanless, which I find kinda neat, but you might want to add your own fan if it's running in a hot environment as the CPU and the drives are very close inside the case from what I can tell. The big thing here is that because it's x86 and has 2gb RAM, you can run full-blown linux on it if you want. Any RAID would be software-based, doubtless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeaoBRTAjGiHSrBq8Jd6cOn97q8A_uBmFfHjfMUl3dyHmWiuA/viewform" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5446" RevisionGUID="3aa87d66-25f8-4c0b-b000-e5c8824b361f" CreationDate="2016-08-08T21:41:52.247" UserId="4142" Comment="added information about single thread performance and ram latency" Text="I used laptops for a while and I am not up to date with the current available hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a new PC mainly for Neural Network computations and some gaming from time to time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rig mainly needs strong Graphic Cards for OpenCL/CUDA computations. The CPU must not bottleneck the GPUs. The cpu needs proper single thread performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My target is to have a very upgradable workstation and install a relativly cheap CPU and Graphic Card. I want to upgrade the CPU when needed, so the socket should be somewhat futureproof or at least not already outdated. Maybe the i5-6600K on socket 1151 is what I need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a single Graphic Card for now and add more once my Neural Network research progresses. The Motherboard should have at least 4 PCIe slots, at least two of them PCIe x16. That should be enougth room for Graphic Card expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to be able to upgrade to at least 64 GB of fast DDR4 RAM, but will use 16 GB for now.&#xD;&#xA;Low lateny ram is favored.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the Software I use for my Neural Network research has no support for AMD cards and requireds nvidias CUDA. So I have to buy nvidia cards. SLI is not needed, since the Cards can run those computations as individual units and Gaming is no priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if a consumer mainboard fits my needs well enough. Maybe a Serverboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm targeting a bugdet of below 1500€ (~$1660) for its first configuration.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5450" RevisionGUID="14c16275-4576-4d66-bae4-6b35822da049" CreationDate="2016-08-08T23:42:59.840" UserId="3980" Text="You might consider the Dell Precision 15 3000 Series. Meets all of your requirements (maybe except for the big screen requirement)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The entry level model goes for $999 -- [Click Here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5 5300HQ Quad Core 2.30GHz base / 3.20GHz Turbo (cpu)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;500GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB DDR4 (ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD FirePro W5130M 2GB (video card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell claims it has 17 hour battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps! :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m3510-workstation/pd?ref=PD_OC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5452" RevisionGUID="af72f551-ef5a-4e69-ab96-f0673362a056" CreationDate="2016-08-09T02:40:02.917" UserId="4146" Text="I'm looking for a microATX motherboard with display port output or at least QHD at 60hz. I've looked around and when googling i usually dont get this its also a little innefficient to browse through each motherboard spec. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand I could just add a video card, but I would like to consider just the motherboard as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5452" RevisionGUID="af72f551-ef5a-4e69-ab96-f0673362a056" CreationDate="2016-08-09T02:40:02.917" UserId="4146" Text="Micro ATX Motherboard with display port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5452" RevisionGUID="af72f551-ef5a-4e69-ab96-f0673362a056" CreationDate="2016-08-09T02:40:02.917" UserId="4146" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="943e6c03-b876-41f6-989b-1b0341937f8b" CreationDate="2016-08-09T05:30:59.710" UserId="4079" Text="I have two questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Does a H110 motherboard which provides a PCIe 3.0 slot really support PCIe 3.0, that is, the graphic card will run in PCIe 3.0 mode?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If the answer of above question is 'yes', is it fine to choose a H110 motherboard than H170 for fully exploiting the performance of a graphic card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional comments on my questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I'm a little confused about the information provided by Intel, on the [official site][1] it says the H110 chipset supports PCIe revision 2.0 with max number of 6 lanes under `Expasnion Options` section. Does that mean a H110 motherboard will only run a graphic card in PCIe 2.0?&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'm concerned if a graphic card is able to run at its maximum on a H110 motherboard which provides PCIe 3.0 slot, without any data transfer restriction. I don't care how many USB 3.0 ports there are (but surely DDR4 support is essential).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="943e6c03-b876-41f6-989b-1b0341937f8b" CreationDate="2016-08-09T05:30:59.710" UserId="4079" Text="Intel H110 chipset motherboard or H170? (for a budget gaming build)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15027" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="943e6c03-b876-41f6-989b-1b0341937f8b" CreationDate="2016-08-09T05:30:59.710" UserId="4079" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15028" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5454" RevisionGUID="bb1cd690-69bb-4193-a569-612aa78e455c" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:16:35.280" UserId="4148" Text="Hi I hope this helps you regarding your question if graphics card will used its full potential on pcie 3.0 yes of course especially with the new graphics card that are out today from nvidia and amd. I want to add somethind if your planning to buy gpu try gt1060 from nvidia or rx 470 crossfire from amd. 600 or 700W power supply will be enough for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try looking for this link also.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Z170-H170-H110-B170-Q150-Q170---What-is-the-Difference-635/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="942ebed7-45ee-45de-ad74-02838c17e03a" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:54:30.147" UserId="4079" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I have two questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Does a H110 motherboard which provides a PCIe 3.0 slot really support PCIe 3.0, that is, the graphic card will run in PCIe 3.0 mode?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If the answer of above question is 'yes', is it fine to choose a H110 motherboard instead of H170 yet still fully exploit the performance of a modern graphic card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional comments on my questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I'm a little confused about the information provided by Intel, on the [official site][1] in `Expansion Options` section it says the H110 chipset supports PCIe revision 2.0 with max number of 6 lanes. Does that mean a H110 motherboard will only run a graphic card in PCIe 2.0?&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'm concerned if a graphic card is able to run at its maximum on a H110 motherboard which provides PCIe 3.0 slot, without any data transfer restriction. I don't care how many USB 3.0 ports there are (but surely DDR4 support is essential).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="7482721a-2752-4ce8-95c1-50706773d2fd" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:59:53.380" UserId="4079" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I have two questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Does a H110 motherboard which provides a PCIe 3.0 slot really support PCIe 3.0, that is, the graphic card will run in PCIe 3.0 mode?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If the answer of above question is 'yes', is it fine to choose a H110 motherboard instead of H170 yet still fully exploit the performance of a modern graphic card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional comments on my questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I'm a little confused about the information provided by Intel, on the [official site][1] in `Expansion Options` section, it says the H110 chipset supports PCIe revision 2.0 with max number of 6 lanes. Does that mean a H110 motherboard will only run a graphic card in PCIe 2.0?&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'm concerned if a graphic card is able to run at its maximum on a H110 motherboard which provides PCIe 3.0 slot, without any data transfer restriction. I don't care how many USB 3.0 ports there are (but surely DDR4 support is essential).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="8e57be65-cb7b-46e1-a10d-29440abbb39d" CreationDate="2016-08-09T09:51:20.930" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5455" RevisionGUID="79c0b45c-5536-43c7-a12b-6a80579dc32e" CreationDate="2016-08-09T12:35:21.947" UserId="4136" Text="I just found the perfect (I think) board: [an Intel NUC board][1] with a 10.16cm squared area and 28.8mm height.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5W TDP, SATA, Gigabit Ethernet, around $100 (for mainboard and integrated CPU). Pity it needs 12V input, this still has me searching for a battery controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It only has 1C/1T at 1.46Ghz, but this should be just enough and already a lot faster than a Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/de/products/78576/Intel-NUC-Board-DE3815TYBE &quot;DE3815TYBE&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="43735f1b-ed28-4c00-bbbe-d382b76c9e2e" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:06:06.197" UserId="4079" Comment="added 287 characters in body" Text="I am considering a budget gaming build. The graphic card probably will be GTX 950 or even less powerful. My question is, in order to exploit the full potential of the graphic card at as low price as possible,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which motherboard should I choose: [this one][1] with Intel H110&#xD;&#xA;&gt; chipset or [this one][2] with H170?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some comments&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I'm a little confused about the information provided by Intel, on the [official site][3] in the `Expansion Options` section, it says the H110 chipset supports PCIe revision 2.0 with max number of 6 lanes. Does that mean a H110 motherboard will only run a graphic card at PCIe 2.0?&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'm concerned if a graphic card is able to run at its maximum on a H110 motherboard which provides PCIe 3.0 slot, without any data transfer restriction. I don't care how many USB 3.0 ports there are (but surely DDR4 support is essential).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-H170-Motherboards-PRO-GAMING/dp/B014F7BQUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470747329&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=asus%20h170&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Micro-Motherboards-H170M-PLUS-CSM/dp/B014F7BM3M/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470747812&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=asus%20h170%20microatzx&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="5a3b4967-4b6a-428f-92d4-f090c77aceaa" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:27:03.167" UserId="4136" Text="I'm searching for a power management board for powering the portable NAS from my other question, which needs 12V-24V and at most 15W, much less on average. Preferably I want to hook it up to individual 18650 li-ion cells, but if there is a cheaper alternative then that's fine too as long it's not too large (I like how I can arrange individual cells in a pattern which fits my enclosure).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* output: 12V-24V and 15W&#xD;&#xA;* input: around 30W so it can charge at a decent speed, don't care about voltage, the one for which the power supplies are cheapest&#xD;&#xA;* input/output: li-ion battery charging/discharging. Probably 4 or 5 cells in series would need the least voltage transformation and would thus be most efficient, but if that makes the charger too expensive then I'd rather have some more cells in total&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has some communication channel which I can monitor so I can do a graceful shutdown before the batteries run empty that would be good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="5a3b4967-4b6a-428f-92d4-f090c77aceaa" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:27:03.167" UserId="4136" Text="PMIC board for 12V-24V 15W output, Li-ion battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="5a3b4967-4b6a-428f-92d4-f090c77aceaa" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:27:03.167" UserId="4136" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5440" RevisionGUID="a84eb0ba-232e-4263-9da9-cfab6799fef8" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:20:03.487" UserId="4136" Comment="added 53 characters in body" Text="I would like to build a portable NAS (with one hard drive of I think 4TB). I need a full Linux and I don't want to fiddle around too much to make it work (no patching and compiling my own kernels and stuff like that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this I need a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * small (say like two 2.5&quot; drives on top of each other, plus at most 50%),&#xD;&#xA; * low power (not more than 3W idle, preferably less)&#xD;&#xA; * SBC (single board computer)&#xD;&#xA; * with SATA (one port, preferably III, II is okay too, doesn't need 12V, just for 2.5&quot; drives)&#xD;&#xA; * and Ethernet (Gigabit).&#xD;&#xA; * Bonus if it has an integrated Li-ion controller (or if you know some separate Li-Ion battery controller board for 5V uninterruptible output).&#xD;&#xA; * Bonus if it doesnt have a crapload of unnecessary features/connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Raspberry Pi doesnt have enough performance (the limiting factors are USB 2.0 and crappy Ethernet, I think) and mATX/mITX boards are too large. What can you recommend for maximum data throughput? I would like to get at least 40MB/s actual real world throughput.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be as cheap as possible. That said, as long as it's significantly cheaper than buying a laptop and ripping off / not using the screen, it's okay. If there is a ready to use NAS (without hard drive/empty enclosure) like that I'm fine with that too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="0754c58d-3cf6-43bb-bb9e-6d0e987ea930" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:32:40.393" UserId="4136" Comment="improved formatting" Text="I'm searching for a power management board for powering the portable NAS from my other question, which needs 12V-24V and at most 15W, much less on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* output: 12V-24V and 15W&#xD;&#xA;* input: around 30W so it can charge at a decent speed, don't care about voltage, the one for which the power supplies are cheapest&#xD;&#xA;* input/output: li-ion battery charging/discharging. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And would ideally also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* have some communication channel which I can monitor so I can do a graceful shutdown before the batteries run empty. Not picky about the interface&#xD;&#xA;* connect to individual 18650 cells in different configurations. Probably 4 or 5 cells in series would need the least voltage transformation and would thus be most efficient, but if that makes the charger too expensive then I'd rather have some more cells in total. If there is a cheaper alternative to 18650 cells then that's fine too as long it's not too large (I like how I can arrange individual cells in a pattern which fits my enclosure)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5457" RevisionGUID="fdd3251f-260f-431e-bc4d-f5a467c079b9" CreationDate="2016-08-09T15:22:10.330" UserId="4043" Text="If you have a local Microcenter I'd encourage you to take a look at the [Dell 7000 series][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a model around ~$650 I recently purchased with: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 360 degree hinged 2-in-1&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6500u&#xD;&#xA; - 256gb SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB Ram&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use mine for light programming, a fair bit of RDP to my monster desktop, and couch-user type media/browsing activites. I was between this laptop and an XPS-13. The XPS is much smaller and lighter, and all around sexier, but if I were to get the same specs as the Inspiron in the XPS, I'd have spent $1200 instead of $690 and have been left without the touchscreen or 360-degree hinge. I took the hit to size and weight (fairly significant to be honest, the XPS13 is tiny!) and saved plenty of cash for a still-pretty-sleek powerhouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The link I gave goes to a similarly specced 15'' system with a 4k display around $900.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microcenter.com/product/460949/Inspiron_15_7000_Series_156_Laptop_Computer_-_Gray" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5458" RevisionGUID="6a71e759-9ddf-4e9d-8ab3-42750fa7a480" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:00:51.147" UserId="3836" Text="AsRock offers the cheapest sub-ATX sized board that I'd actually try to run [QHD at 60Hz][1] on: the **[ASRock AM1H-ITX][2]**. Per [AsRock spec][3], the DP port is 1.2 compliant, so it [should be capable of QHD/60hz][4]. Putting an AMD Athlon 5370 in the CPU slot should just about drive that resolution. Not sure I'd risk it with anything lower than that, but if you're the adventurous type, then you can get integrated, very cheap solutions like the ASRock QC5000-ITX/PH or the ASRock J3710-ITX (mind you, I'm not a huge AsRock fan, they just seem to be the ones offering the cheapest, most prolific models in this space. I'm guessing other brands offer solutions here, I just can't seem to find them). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FWIW, it seems that any FM2+, 1150, or 1151 motherboards with a DisplayPort out should all conform to at least DP 1.2, meaning they support your desired display. On the Intel side I'd tend to advise packages with HD 4400 or higher graphics solutions, but it is possible I'm way off base on that and plain old HD graphics will work just fine due to the magic of Intel's Quicksync decoder - but definitely do not try anything from AMD without VCE or from Intel without Quicksync. Those two technologies should be considered mandatory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/977654/what-is-the-difference-between-4k-uhd-and-qhd-do-we-agree-on-one-official-reso&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/AM1H-ITX/index.us.asp?cat=Specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Resolution_and_frame_rate_support_for_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5460" RevisionGUID="b524f31d-bac2-4a5a-bc02-8df1eb1cf28d" CreationDate="2016-08-09T21:53:34.033" UserId="3836" Text="I recommend the **[Rii K12BT Ultra Slim Portable Mini Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard][1]**. It does everything you listed (well, it can charge while connected via bluetooth, but close enough), and it is cheap and well-reviewed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Portable-Wireless-Bluetooth-Stainless/dp/B017QZ483G/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470779451&amp;sr=1-20-spons&amp;keywords=solar%20keyboard%20with%20touchpad%20bluetooth&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="a0c1e20c-1514-4a23-b78b-91163af525cb" CreationDate="2016-08-09T22:53:41.867" UserId="1371" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless back-lit keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality while allows using it with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asking for too much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="a7f0ce2c-1fcc-4771-92bd-fe30d3a7e875" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:16:26.510" UserId="1438" Text="TL;DR: I'm looking for a portable printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a printer that can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Print A4 size paper&#xD;&#xA; - Be carried in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Connect to my Windows 10 laptop and Android phone (bluetooth preferred)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A thermal printer is preferred, though any type will work. I have found the [Brother PocketJet][1] series but they are out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.brother-usa.com/mobile/lp/pocketjet7/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="a7f0ce2c-1fcc-4771-92bd-fe30d3a7e875" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:16:26.510" UserId="1438" Text="Android Compatible Portable A4 Printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="a7f0ce2c-1fcc-4771-92bd-fe30d3a7e875" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:16:26.510" UserId="1438" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15071" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="362185b9-e3ba-401f-9e35-a54421343e45" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:46:29.893" UserId="4079" Comment="I have added some specific information and deleted some off-topic questions" Text="I am considering a budget gaming build. The graphic card probably will be GTX 950 or even less powerful (well, let's just suppose I'm buying a GTX950 card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please recommend a motherboard, my requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It should be powerful enough to fully exploit the potential of GTX 950, that is, I won't blame the motherboard for running a game slowly &#xD;&#xA; 2. It should supports DDR4 memory&#xD;&#xA; 3. At least I have heard of the maker of that motherboard, include ASUS, GIGABYTE, MSI, ASRock or EVGA&#xD;&#xA; 4. It should be a budget motherboard, let's say under 100$ " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15072" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="362185b9-e3ba-401f-9e35-a54421343e45" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:46:29.893" UserId="4079" Comment="I have added some specific information and deleted some off-topic questions" Text="Please recommend a motherboard for budget gaming build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5453" RevisionGUID="362185b9-e3ba-401f-9e35-a54421343e45" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:46:29.893" UserId="4079" Comment="I have added some specific information and deleted some off-topic questions" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5455" RevisionGUID="f82f3214-5fc7-487a-8c35-ff4220436ffb" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:56:11.370" UserId="4136" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I just found the perfect (I think) board: [an Intel NUC board][1] with a 10.16cm squared area and 28.8mm height.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5W TDP, SATA, Gigabit Ethernet, around $100 (for mainboard and integrated CPU). Pity it needs 12V input, this still has me searching for a battery controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It only has 1C/1T at 1.46Ghz, but this should be just enough and already a lot faster than a Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are mini PCI-E expansion boards for at least two additional SATA III connections, with the more expensive ones supporting hardware RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/de/products/78576/Intel-NUC-Board-DE3815TYBE &quot;DE3815TYBE&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5470" RevisionGUID="2e8ae553-0e51-4c92-9f8b-cad091804346" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:18:59.390" UserId="543" Text="This keybaord: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Keyboard-KVAGO-Backlight-Illuminated/dp/B01G6LA72M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470834872&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=mini+wireless+backlit+keyboard&amp;psc=1 fits all of your criteria: it is small (28.4 x 14.8 x 2.2 cm), it is backlit, is wireless and has a USB cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Modulation System: GFSK&#xD;&#xA;- Operating Voltage: 3.0-5.0V&#xD;&#xA;- Working current: 2.5-3.5MA&#xD;&#xA;- Standby Current: 0.3mA &#xD;&#xA;- Sleeping Current: 0.1mA &#xD;&#xA;- Charging Current: 200mA &#xD;&#xA;- Working distance: 10m &#xD;&#xA;- Uninterrupted work time: 55 to 70 hours &#xD;&#xA;-Charging time: 4-5 hours &#xD;&#xA;- Standby time: 60 days &#xD;&#xA;- Operating voltage: 3.7~4.2V(Power by Li-on) &#xD;&#xA;- Battery capacity without backlight version: 150mah&#xD;&#xA;- Battery capacity with a backlit version: 400mah&#xD;&#xA;- Lithium Battery Capacity: 400mA&#xD;&#xA;- Lithium Battery Life: 3 years&#xD;&#xA;- Key Strength: 70-90g&#xD;&#xA;- Key Life: 5 million strokes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost: £21." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="0de450e4-253f-409c-bb03-eebe43bf82ec" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:22:02.843" UserId="4136" Text="It might be worth it to look into 3.5&quot; drive enclosures. I've got an aluminium one which is a little oversized for a 3.5&quot; drive and which has just the right size for a NUC board and some 2.5&quot; drives (30mm height in total).[![Picture of mine.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; It even has a status LED (that's the cable you see) and a kind of sled onto which I can mount stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/daMUK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15079" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="7067d9d2-66d7-4e9f-aceb-49457a51c243" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:33:44.607" UserId="8" Comment="38" />
  <row Id="15080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="7411e949-6021-498c-ad07-69a6954d348a" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:39:43.290" UserId="4136" Comment="added 460 characters in body" Text="It might be worth it to look into 3.5&quot; drive enclosures. I've got an aluminium one which is a little oversized for a 3.5&quot; drive and which has just the right size for a NUC board and some 2.5&quot; drives (30mm height in total).[![Picture of mine.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; It even has a status LED (that's the cable you see) and a kind of sled onto which I can mount stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This might be something you can actually order][2] for $15, but really I meant to give general advice and not a specific product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * aluminium so it transfers heat outside&#xD;&#xA; * preferably have this kind of sled so you can screw the NUC board onto it and still get it out of the case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/daMUK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-Inch-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B009CXPZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470836574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5%22+aluminium+case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5472" RevisionGUID="6b17f229-cbe4-46d7-ad6e-9e86eb3f377b" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:09:19.627" UserId="1977" Text="I need a barcode terminal device for access controls workflow, this device needs to be connected to a web-application. In other words I need what can be a browser and a barcode scanner together.&#xD;&#xA;Price limit 500$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15082" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5472" RevisionGUID="6b17f229-cbe4-46d7-ad6e-9e86eb3f377b" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:09:19.627" UserId="1977" Text="Barcode POS terminal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15083" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5472" RevisionGUID="6b17f229-cbe4-46d7-ad6e-9e86eb3f377b" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:09:19.627" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15085" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5474" RevisionGUID="e38a889e-738b-490f-81b1-a1727af63640" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:20:01.370" UserId="3836" Text="The **[Motorola MC40N0][1]** provides an android-based barcode scanner system which can access web applications via the android browser wirelessly. It includes a barcode scanner, laser scanner, camera, and magnetic strip reader. Software to utilize the scanning methods should come stock on the included Android ROM, otherwise you'll have to buy a license from Motorola, which will ruin your budget. An older model, it can be found on the used market for cheap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I owned two of these devices, having found them in a dumpster. After charging them up, both worked fine, though one had a battery that wouldn't charge. Their OMAP 800mhz dual core ARM CPUs were somewhat slow, but sufficient for the job, and the devices were incredibly efficient and long-lasting.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorola-Symbol-MC40N0-Touch-Computer-Barcode-Scanner-/162156587458?hash=item25c14929c2:g:9a4AAOSwaB5XoNzm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="b3eae9dd-22ec-4f96-b855-45c75d25b273" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:38:22.887" UserId="4136" Comment="added 358 characters in body" Text="It might be worth it to look into 3.5&quot; drive enclosures. I've got an aluminium one which is a little oversized for a 3.5&quot; drive and which has just the right size for a NUC board and some 2.5&quot; drives (30mm height in total).[![Picture of mine.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; It even has a status LED (that's the cable you see) and a kind of sled onto which I can mount stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This might be something you can actually order][2] for $15, but really I meant to give general advice and not a specific product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * aluminium so it transfers heat outside&#xD;&#xA; * preferably have this kind of sled so you can screw the NUC board onto it and still get it out of the case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To mount the NUC, tap threaded holes into the base of the sled (or unthreaded ones and special screws which cut their own thread), get spacers (may cut your own from aluminium tube) to put under the NUC and just screw it on from above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will also need to cut away material for the ports, with a file or a rotational tool (if you already have one and like using it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem is those things don't have exact spec sheets, so you might need to improvise based on what you end up buying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/daMUK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-Inch-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B009CXPZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470836574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5%22+aluminium+case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="c16d7056-df4c-4d90-b274-d3707a44cee7" CreationDate="2016-08-10T16:00:36.507" UserId="4136" Comment="added 181 characters in body" Text="It might be worth it to look into 3.5&quot; drive enclosures. I've got an aluminium one which is a little oversized for a 3.5&quot; drive and which has just the right size for a NUC board and some 2.5&quot; drives (30mm height in total).[![Picture of mine.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; It even has a status LED (that's the cable you see) and a kind of sled onto which I can mount stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This might be something you can actually order][2] for $15, but really I meant to give general advice and not a specific product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * aluminium so it transfers heat outside&#xD;&#xA; * preferably have this kind of sled so you can screw the NUC board onto it and still get it out of the case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To mount the NUC, tap threaded holes into the base of the sled (or unthreaded ones and special screws which cut their own thread), get spacers (may cut your own from aluminium tube) to put under the NUC and just screw it on from above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will also need to cut away material for the ports, with a file or a rotational tool (if you already have one and like using it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**If this is too much** manufacturing work for this site, imagine I wrote &quot;Use double sided thermally conducting tape and rip away any parts you don't need with brute force.&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem is those things don't have exact spec sheets, so you might need to improvise based on what you end up buying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/daMUK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-Inch-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B009CXPZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470836574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5%22+aluminium+case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="175871d4-da95-47aa-809c-1ca0b03b73c8" CreationDate="2016-08-10T18:10:32.643" UserId="543" Comment="grammar fixed" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless back-lit keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality which allows it to be used with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asking for too much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="175871d4-da95-47aa-809c-1ca0b03b73c8" CreationDate="2016-08-10T18:10:32.643" Comment="Proposed by 543 approved by 3836, 8 edit id of 501" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15091" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="0b0637bb-e5bf-4666-90a1-68b53b53eba2" CreationDate="2016-08-10T20:47:40.463" UserId="1094" Text="I'm trying to build a sit-stand desk solution with motors that can be controlled by a computer.  I've found some good instructions for building your own [electric height adjustable desk here](http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/), however, it does not talk about interfacing with a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to create software on a desktop, laptop, mobile phone, or tablet that interfaces with the motors of the desk, allowing them to be controlled to raise, lower the desk automatically to two or more preset locations as well as being triggered automatically under certain circumstances.  I imagine the motors would be connected to a controller that knows their position and can change their position to a known second position and the controller might have a bluetooth capability for integration with a computing device to control it.  Alternatively, perhaps a USB connection could be used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some options for linear actuators and controllers that could provide this capability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15092" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="0b0637bb-e5bf-4666-90a1-68b53b53eba2" CreationDate="2016-08-10T20:47:40.463" UserId="1094" Text="Looking for programmable controller for linear actuators for use in a standing desk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="0b0637bb-e5bf-4666-90a1-68b53b53eba2" CreationDate="2016-08-10T20:47:40.463" UserId="1094" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;automation&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="cbaed368-567b-4128-b408-37747b53caab" CreationDate="2016-08-10T20:53:41.743" UserId="1094" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build a sit-stand desk solution with motors that can be controlled by a computer.  I've found some good instructions for building your own [electric height adjustable desk here](http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/), however, it does not talk about interfacing with a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to create software on a desktop, laptop, mobile phone, or tablet that interfaces with the motors of the desk, allowing them to be controlled to raise, lower the desk automatically to two or more preset locations as well as being triggered automatically under certain circumstances.  I imagine the motors would be connected to a controller that knows their position and can change their position to a known second position and the controller might have a bluetooth capability for integration with a computing device to control it.  Alternatively, perhaps a USB connection could be used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some options for linear actuators (such as [this one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/141539502002)) and controllers that could provide this capability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5476" RevisionGUID="13575b6e-bf0e-4cf1-9061-ea4c79f9eb66" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:11:41.803" UserId="3836" Text="I think you'd have excellent luck with the [Raspberry Pi A+][1] for ~$25. It has excellent documentation, some preexisting [servo driver software][2], and integrated GPIO pins, which are the things you solder the controller wires from your motors to. It does NOT run a real-time environment, so stutter might occur, but for your use case that might not matter. At only $25, it makes sense to try this first and then add something like an [Arduino Uno][3] if stuttering IS a problem, since the Arduino will likely need to communicate with the Pi anyway. The big draw here is really the documentation; this is an incredibly well-documented platform with a lot of active users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://Raspberry%20Pi%20Model%20A+%20256MB%20RAM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/richardghirst/PiBits/tree/master/ServoBlaster&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.adafruit.com/products/50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5476" RevisionGUID="ef6e7d3e-02f6-4842-9984-cc0f15840131" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:17:43.037" UserId="1094" Comment="Fix broken link" Text="I think you'd have excellent luck with the [Raspberry Pi A+][1] for ~$25. It has excellent documentation, some preexisting [servo driver software][2], and integrated GPIO pins, which are the things you solder the controller wires from your motors to. It does NOT run a real-time environment, so stutter might occur, but for your use case that might not matter. At only $25, it makes sense to try this first and then add something like an [Arduino Uno][3] if stuttering IS a problem, since the Arduino will likely need to communicate with the Pi anyway. The big draw here is really the documentation; this is an incredibly well-documented platform with a lot of active users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2266&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/richardghirst/PiBits/tree/master/ServoBlaster&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.adafruit.com/products/50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5476" RevisionGUID="ef6e7d3e-02f6-4842-9984-cc0f15840131" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:17:43.037" Comment="Proposed by 1094 approved by 3836 edit id of 502" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="b2ae6ffa-2e2c-423b-9a73-5bd813137076" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:35:28.490" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15105" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="e6b4671c-8625-4587-922b-b83e36cd6536" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:57:18.677" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15106" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="72" RevisionGUID="da4e8650-1fcc-449f-8716-91aa9d140bf5" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:57:18.677" UserId="8" Comment="39" />
  <row Id="15110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="a0da74aa-2c5e-410f-ac3f-f944b91f00e6" CreationDate="2016-08-11T01:08:10.807" UserId="3836" Comment="Removed the offending tidbit." Text="I'm trying to build a sit-stand desk solution with motors that can be controlled by a computer.  I've found some good instructions for building your own [electric height adjustable desk here](http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/), however, it does not talk about interfacing with a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to create software on a desktop, laptop, mobile phone, or tablet that interfaces with the motors of the desk, allowing them to be controlled to raise, lower the desk automatically to two or more preset locations as well as being triggered automatically under certain circumstances.  I imagine the motors would be connected to a controller that knows their position and can change their position to a known second position and the controller might have a bluetooth capability for integration with a computing device to control it.  Alternatively, perhaps a USB connection could be used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What are some options for controllers that could provide this capability?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="0afcf801-ff99-4642-80ca-b62686c9ff84" CreationDate="2016-08-11T12:33:47.047" UserId="1438" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="TL;DR: I'm looking for a portable printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a printer that can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Print A4 size paper&#xD;&#xA; - Be carried in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Connect to my Windows 10 laptop and Android phone (bluetooth preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - &lt;$150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A thermal printer is preferred, though any type will work. I have found the [Brother PocketJet][1] series but they are out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.brother-usa.com/mobile/lp/pocketjet7/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="dd59f0a1-69d6-4cf7-b84b-98319a5843f1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T12:43:56.793" UserId="8" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="TL;DR: I'm looking for a portable printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a printer that can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Print A4 size paper&#xD;&#xA; - Be carried in a backpack&#xD;&#xA; - Connect to my Windows 10 laptop and Android phone (bluetooth preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; $150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A thermal printer is preferred, though any type will work. I have found the [Brother PocketJet][1] series but they are out of my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.brother-usa.com/mobile/lp/pocketjet7/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5480" RevisionGUID="49b12e3b-6a7b-4728-a9db-c2e60e929bf8" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:29:57.553" UserId="3836" Text="I'm going to recommend the **[HP Deskjet 460c][1]**. This printer meets your requirements, though it is not a thermal printer. It [supports][2] printing directly from Android via a wifi connection (no router needed AFAIK) using their [official free app][3]. It has a bluetooth receiver built in, but I'm not sure whether the app uses it. It comes with a battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/hp-deskjet-460c-/232015701938?_trksid=p2352135.m2548.l4275&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03722645#FAQ_HPePrintMobileApp&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hp.android.print&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5480" RevisionGUID="d9825c59-1b87-45ab-9af6-46a40f2050c6" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:41:16.457" UserId="3836" Comment="changed product link." Text="I'm going to recommend the **[HP Deskjet 460c][1]**. This printer meets your requirements, though it is not a thermal printer. It [supports][2] printing directly from Android via a wifi connection (no router needed AFAIK) using their [official free app][3]. It has a bluetooth receiver built in, but I'm not sure whether the app uses it. It comes with a battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Deskjet-460-Mobile-Inkjet-Printer-with-ac-adaptor-and-802-11g-printer-card-/162165020794?hash=item25c1c9d87a:g:ICoAAOSwVghXE7GO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03722645#FAQ_HPePrintMobileApp&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hp.android.print&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="89e90915-907a-4aa4-8f4d-d80a5a132677" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:23:59.300" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [7411e949-6021-498c-ad07-69a6954d348a]" Text="It might be worth it to look into 3.5&quot; drive enclosures. I've got an aluminium one which is a little oversized for a 3.5&quot; drive and which has just the right size for a NUC board and some 2.5&quot; drives (30mm height in total).[![Picture of mine.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; It even has a status LED (that's the cable you see) and a kind of sled onto which I can mount stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This might be something you can actually order][2] for $15, but really I meant to give general advice and not a specific product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * aluminium so it transfers heat outside&#xD;&#xA; * preferably have this kind of sled so you can screw the NUC board onto it and still get it out of the case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/daMUK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-Inch-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B009CXPZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470836574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5%22+aluminium+case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="5471" RevisionGUID="11c9b1f8-e03f-4603-b9e2-4f3e841bf6c6" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:26:27.013" UserId="8" Comment="38" />
  <row Id="15126" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5481" RevisionGUID="ef59fdd3-037f-4fd3-b05b-514a883ab948" CreationDate="2016-08-11T17:48:14.767" UserId="4168" Text="Well, your request doesn't explicitly specify laptop, so I will make a recommendation for a desktop even though I get the strong feeling you really do want a laptop.  XPS x8900-2506BLK Intel Core i7 6th Gen 6700 (3.4 GHz) 16 GB DDR4 1 TB HDD NVIDIA GeForce GTX  for $889 from Newegg. &#xD;&#xA;And a decent monitor: Asus VE228H 21.5&quot; Full HD HDMI LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers ASCR 10,000,000:1  $109 from Newegg. You can do a lot with that if you don't mind programming at home. Or, you could use a lightweight device and RDP into the desktop and program away from home." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="ead7c41a-6e82-47ea-a4f5-1b6f2ada03a5" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:03:49.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15129" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5457" RevisionGUID="7df88c2e-c9dd-487d-b7cb-c88bf0ae3106" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:53:38.607" UserId="4043" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="If you have a local Microcenter I'd encourage you to take a look at the [Dell 7000 series][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a model around ~$650 I recently purchased with: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 360 degree hinged 2-in-1&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6500u&#xD;&#xA; - 256gb SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB Ram&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use mine for light programming, a fair bit of RDP to my monster desktop, and couch-user type media/browsing activites. I was between this laptop and an XPS-13. The XPS is much smaller and lighter, and all around sexier, but if I were to get the same specs as the Inspiron in the XPS, I'd have spent $1200 instead of $690 and have been left without the touchscreen or 360-degree hinge. I took the hit to size and weight (fairly significant to be honest, the XPS13 is tiny!) and saved plenty of cash for a still-pretty-sleek powerhouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The link I gave goes to a similarly specced 15'' system with a 4k display around $900.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I just re-read your question and this does not meet a number of your requirements (no VGA/HDMI, numpad)&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microcenter.com/product/460949/Inspiron_15_7000_Series_156_Laptop_Computer_-_Gray&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2340" RevisionGUID="188267fa-4c82-46d6-b411-db856543ecab" CreationDate="2016-08-12T02:17:58.863" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5485" RevisionGUID="344fe1e8-3af0-42cb-9edd-a6a040491218" CreationDate="2016-08-12T09:34:42.770" UserId="2224" Text="I have [D-LINK DNS-320][1] which currently has 2 [disk][2] of 1TB each and I want to change them and buy two of 2TB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is which kind of disk should I purchase? A regular disk or NAS disk?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://sharecenter.dlink.com/products/DNS-320&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Internal-Hard-Drive/dp/B008DJE7HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5485" RevisionGUID="344fe1e8-3af0-42cb-9edd-a6a040491218" CreationDate="2016-08-12T09:34:42.770" UserId="2224" Text="Which disk is suitable for D-LINK DNS-320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15141" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5485" RevisionGUID="344fe1e8-3af0-42cb-9edd-a6a040491218" CreationDate="2016-08-12T09:34:42.770" UserId="2224" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5486" RevisionGUID="5ec30b34-3b83-4363-b83e-3be6cf579d68" CreationDate="2016-08-12T10:53:02.943" UserId="3987" Text="So just from my experience: you can simply use normal disks as they work exactly as a normal hard disk. I use normal ones in my 24/7 servers since a few years without a failure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you have the money and your data should be really safe from drive failure, you should buy NAS drives. They are built exactly for this purpose and generate, as far as the producing companys tell us, less vibrations, what is positive for the expected lifespan of the drives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5489" RevisionGUID="39e327e4-ecd9-4ab8-a06e-2e881e5e0b67" CreationDate="2016-08-12T17:36:06.643" UserId="4057" Text="It all depends on what you mean by &quot;very high-end&quot;, I am not aware of any consumer applications that would utilize more than 2-3 GPUs, with a single user but if you want to run several of the most demanding applications there are at the same time for some reason, and therefore you need to take everything to the very max, here you go:&#xA;&#xA;http://www.supermicro.com/products/system/4U/4028/SYS-4028GR-TRT.cfm&#xA;&#xA;(This is the highest end server motherboard I could find, with support for the most [8] PCIE 3.0 GPUs.)&#xA;&#xA;You did not make clear your requirements for GPUs, however, but since you are trying to build a &quot;a very high-end&quot; system, I am guessing you would want to go with 8 980TIs, of course you will not be able to run all the graphics cards in SLI (or crossfire if you decide to go with AMD) since neither of the two manufacturers have SLI bridges with support for more than 4 cards.&#xA;&#xA;As for the CPU:&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DX5O20W/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?tag=linustechtips-20&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B01DX5O20W&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;linkId=AQM7FRJICIOEDYTX&#xA;&#xA;Now, I would like to note that though I am not exactly sure what you will be using this coputer for, I think it is a total waste of money to build.a system like the one above since, unless there are many users, or a LOT OF very demanding applications being ran at the same time, there is no way you could use up all this power.&#xA;&#xA;Instead I would recommend getting the parts linked below, which will still probably be an absolute overkill for your needs:&#xA;&#xA;Mobo:&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1AXIHM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?tag=linustechtips-20&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00O1AXIHM&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;linkId=EJA47R5CG7ZOFSSN&#xA;&#xA;Case:&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16811129218&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Cases+%28Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form%29-_-N82E16811129218&amp;gclid=CKrhi_2zvM4CFYcfhgodADABkg&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xA;&#xA;Processors:&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?tag=linustechtips-20&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;index=aps&amp;keywords=Intel+5960X&amp;linkCode=as2&#xA;&#xA;Graphics Cards:&#xA;http://www.vgastore.com/2021301/asus-gtxtitanx_12gd5-geforce-gtx-titan-x-12gb-384-bit-gddr5-pci-express-3-0-hdcp-ready-sli-support-video-card&#xA;&#xA;PSU:&#xA;http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA91N4DC5875&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-Mobile&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-Mobile-_-pla-_-Power+Supplies-_-9SIA91N4DC5875&amp;gclid=CIHOlvq0vM4CFZFZhgod5moDNQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xA;&#xA;And any drives and cables of choice..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15157" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5485" RevisionGUID="b3477c4f-28c5-4866-80af-49a4d21acaf8" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:08:10.850" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15159" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5491" RevisionGUID="f558d464-3cdb-4ce8-ab43-763f4f14698c" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:12:58.220" UserId="1175" Text="The best, most energy efficient solution would be a **hub dynamo**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A basic model of hub dynamo would be something like the Shimano DH-3N31, available from about €30. There are more expensive models, which are lighter weight, and a bit less drag. But you probably won't notice much difference anyway, unless you are riding a fast, lightweight bicycle. Note the DH-3N31 is only suitable for rim brakes, there are similar models that work with disc brakes (eg Shimano DH-3D32).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would need to get the hub dynamo built into a wheel. You could rebuild your existing wheel, to replace the hub, or maybe easier just to buy a complete dynamo wheel. Cost from about €75, depending on what sort of hub and spokes you want etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you need something to take the power output from the dynamo, and convert it to a USB output. A good option would be the [Busch &amp; Müller USB-Werk](http://en.bumm.de/produkte/e-werk-usb-werk/usb-werk.html), for about €65. This has a built in cache battery, so it can supply constant power to your phone, even if you slow down or stop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also dynamo powered lights, with USB output. This could be useful if riding after dark. Though they are more expensive. eg [Busch &amp; Müller Lumotec IQ2 Luxos U](http://en.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-iq2-luxos.html), for €120." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5498" RevisionGUID="1ac0d05c-a8e4-4713-98e2-24667b53d3f2" CreationDate="2016-08-13T16:11:30.163" UserId="1675" Text="If you are looking for a mechanical keyboard, [this Drevo][1] fits all your criteria: it has no number pad, it has backlights, and it's Bluetooth-compatible.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-Calibur-Mechanical-Bluetooth-Connection/dp/B01H6DWV8M?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B01H6DNIHU&amp;th=1 &quot;This Drevo&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="b52bb8b1-b151-4326-9146-3bff823f9fb6" CreationDate="2016-08-13T20:17:32.630" UserId="3791" Text="I'm looking for a wired Xinput compatible controller that has vibration support and the same layout as the PlayStation. Basically the Logitech F310 with vibration. I know there was an F510 but I can't find it anywhere anymore for a reasonable price so I'm lead to believe that it's already phased out. It would have been the perfect one. I don't want the F710 because I don't want to worry about battery so I'd like if it's wired." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="b52bb8b1-b151-4326-9146-3bff823f9fb6" CreationDate="2016-08-13T20:17:32.630" UserId="3791" Text="An alternative to the Logitech F310 with vibration support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="b52bb8b1-b151-4326-9146-3bff823f9fb6" CreationDate="2016-08-13T20:17:32.630" UserId="3791" Text="&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="2eb41630-f1c7-4b6a-b20c-11df86a6742e" CreationDate="2016-08-14T04:14:02.863" UserId="531" Text="I'm on the hunt for a new pair of gaming headphones with a built in mic. I have a few hard requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the 'internal' size of the cups to be at least 70mm (my current pair is that size and fits perfectly) and fit a larger headsize (Not sure how to measure that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like USB or a wireless dongle. BT would be ok, but I'd need to add BT to my system. 3.5mm is kinda messy for my purposes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality should be decent - I'm not expecting audiophile quality sound, but I'd not want my ears to bleed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be padded in all the right places - my past few headphones have had completely padded headbands, with fabric rather than pleather in contact with my head and Its comfy. Likewise, pleather, not raw sponge ear cups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer closed cups over open cups. My parents have gotten into the habit of turning the lights off and on if they need my attention anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is about 300 sgd." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="2eb41630-f1c7-4b6a-b20c-11df86a6742e" CreationDate="2016-08-14T04:14:02.863" UserId="531" Text="comfy, over the ear gaming headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="2eb41630-f1c7-4b6a-b20c-11df86a6742e" CreationDate="2016-08-14T04:14:02.863" UserId="531" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="ce39cad9-469e-4669-af6a-58920b522ce5" CreationDate="2016-08-14T05:00:54.413" UserId="531" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="I'm on the hunt for a new pair of gaming headphones with a built in mic. I have a few hard requirements &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the 'internal' size of the cups to be at least 70mm (my current pair is that size and fits perfectly) and fit a larger headsize (Not sure how to measure that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like USB or a wireless dongle. BT would be ok, but I'd need to add BT to my system. 3.5mm is kinda messy for my purposes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality should be decent - I'm not expecting audiophile quality sound, but I'd not want my ears to bleed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be padded in all the right places - my past few headphones have had completely padded headbands, with fabric rather than pleather in contact with my head and Its comfy. Likewise, pleather, not raw sponge ear cups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer closed cups over open cups. My parents have gotten into the habit of turning the lights off and on if they need my attention anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is about 300 sgd - say 150 to 200 USD. Local availability in singapore would be a plus. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5502" RevisionGUID="f4e2f7ab-8fea-415f-9e42-f5ca29035710" CreationDate="2016-08-14T06:00:40.887" UserId="4051" Text="I want to upgrade my current monitor, and I'm looking for something future-proof, seeing that a monitor is something that should last a while (10ish years). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs mentioned above are what I came up with, and are pretty much non-negotiable. However, I can not seem to find any monitor that meets all of these requirements. There is always something missing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering Google search can be tricky when looking for specific things, I might just have overlooked one. Does anyone know of a monitor that meets those specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15209" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5502" RevisionGUID="f4e2f7ab-8fea-415f-9e42-f5ca29035710" CreationDate="2016-08-14T06:00:40.887" UserId="4051" Text="Monitor with 4k, 120hz+, TN, G-Sync?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5502" RevisionGUID="f4e2f7ab-8fea-415f-9e42-f5ca29035710" CreationDate="2016-08-14T06:00:40.887" UserId="4051" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5475" RevisionGUID="eff160df-4d90-4a54-9931-10fd9963fd54" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:58:15.823" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5505" RevisionGUID="c0b928c2-81a8-46da-91ff-2a94d89d3d98" CreationDate="2016-08-14T09:08:06.303" UserId="540" Text="My suggestion is the [Corsair VOID](http://www.corsair.com/en/void-wireless-dolby-7-1-gaming-headset) headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Pros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The earcups are a departure from the ubiquitous circular/oval shapes - see the images in the link above. I find it to be an almost perfect fit around the ear without extra space. It's approx 70mm along the longer diagonal. They are circumaural (over-ear/closed cups).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is very well padded, with a cloth/mesh covering. They seem fairly large, where I find most other headphones to be too tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic boom is long and flexible. Many other headsets I've tried have the mic a fair distance from the mouth, which is a problem for people who speak softly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic seems to be directional and does a decent job of avoiding most keyboard noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issue would probably be the control software - it has a habit of halving volumes of other programs over time until they hit 0. But the software doesn't really add much value unless you really want to use the macros - if you just want basic audio in/out, you won't need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be a bit heavy for extended listening, weighing in at 375g on the wireless model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality, as always, is subjective. I find it perfectly fine for listening to music, and I've heard no complaints about the mic quality from others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are wired and wireless options available. I'm currently using the wireless one, which has decent range with no detectable quality loss or stuttering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15218" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5505" RevisionGUID="53f27029-9f51-4f2c-b4e7-f5756d900f03" CreationDate="2016-08-14T09:56:41.520" UserId="540" Comment="added 90 characters in body" Text="My suggestion is the [Corsair VOID](http://www.corsair.com/en/void-wireless-dolby-7-1-gaming-headset) headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Pros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The earcups are a departure from the ubiquitous circular/oval shapes - see the images in the link above. I find it to be an almost perfect fit around the ear without extra space. It's approx 70mm along the longer diagonal. They are circumaural (over-ear/closed cups).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is very well padded, with a cloth/mesh covering. They seem fairly large, where I find most other headphones to be too tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic boom is long and flexible. Many other headsets I've tried have the mic a fair distance from the mouth (shorter, maybe straight only), which is a problem for people who speak softly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic seems to be directional and does a decent job of avoiding most keyboard noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issue would probably be the CUE software - it has a habit of halving volumes of other programs over time until they hit 0. But the software doesn't really add much value unless you really want to use the macros - if you just want basic audio in/out, you won't need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be a bit heavy for extended listening, weighing in at 375g on the wireless model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality, as always, is subjective. I find it perfectly fine for listening to music, and I've heard no complaints about the mic quality from others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are wired and wireless options available. I'm currently using the wireless one, which has decent range with no detectable quality loss or stuttering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qHGPv.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5506" RevisionGUID="dc1a4913-8363-44b6-9fd5-2d8791221e81" CreationDate="2016-08-14T16:03:59.940" UserId="586" Text="I have a few alternatives, with different pros and cons. I have extensive first-hand experience with each of these products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [SteelSeries Siberia 800 / 840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, a little history. SteelSeries launched the &quot;H Wireless&quot; headset a couple years ago. It's a wireless headset with a basestation, with a replaceable battery (two of them, in fact, with a charger in the base station), flexible boom mic, and many options for connectivity. It's over-ear, relatively comfortable, but weighs a ton. It depends on being within ~100m of the base station (it's a Class 1 2.4 GHz device) to get wireless functionality, though. You can still use it as normal headphones with a 3.5mm cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Siberia 800 is basically the H Wireless, rebranded and with slight tweaks to the aesthetic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Siberia 840 is basically the Siberia 800, but with Bluetooth added as another option *in addition to* the standard wired connections (USB, 3.5mm and toslink). I emailed SteelSeries to get more details about exactly how their Bluetooth works (is it in the base station or the headset, for one), and will update you when I hear back. I'm betting the Bluetooth transceiver is in the base station, and lets you do things like stream music or calls from your phone to your base station to your headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My experience is solely with the H Wireless, but this product family is so incredibly similar to the original H Wireless that I basically have experience with the 840, minus the optional Bluetooth stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Two batteries - as long as you keep one charging, you'll never run out of juice. It takes about 5-10 seconds for an experienced user to swap batteries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sound quality - they seem to use an extremely low latency, lossless codec that's perfectly suitable for real-time gaming. Also, the sound never once dropped out or had any digital artifacts while I was using the H Wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Over-ear and very large - the only possible issue you might have is that the headset feels a little heavy, and may press on your skull with an uncomfortable amount of force. Not sure if they've improved that at all with the new models. But it will definitely encompass your entire ear within the padded cup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No special software is *required* to use them -- the 3.5mm / toslink / USB sound card options are all pretty standard. I think the Siberia 840 has some support for an EQ or something through SteelSeries' custom software, if you want. Meh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Battery life: Either the battery &quot;fuel gauge&quot; on the base station is wildly inaccurate, or the battery life on these Li-Ion cells deteriorates at a frightening pace with use. It was nice (around 18-20 hours) when first using the headset, but within 3-6 months it was around half that. I generally ran the batteries down to about 25% before recharging them but I never let them drain completely, so when I first got 'em, I was changing battery about once per day, and within 6 months I was changing battery about two to three times for a full day gaming session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SteelSeries refused to sell replacement batteries for the H Wireless. Not sure if that has changed for the Siberia 800 / 840.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - These cans are a bit pricier than Bob's suggestion (but, thankfully, not quite into the $400-500 price range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pending the result of my email to SteelSeries, even the 840 might be functionally useless as a wireless headset if you carry it away from the base station. Unless the Bluetooth codec is inside the headset itself, which would be awesome, as these could then double as Bluetooth headphones for music listening and taking calls while on travel (with a smartphone or laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next suggestion is for Bluetooth headphones with which I have extensive experience (yes, even for gaming) and represents my current personal setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Foreword**: Whenever you're using Bluetooth in a gaming setup, it is important that both your transmitter and the headphones support **AptX Low Latency**. Just AptX will not be good enough. The reason is that **AptX Low Latency** is the *only* Bluetooth A2DP codec with a low enough latency to be suitable for gaming. Other codecs like AAC and &quot;regular&quot; AptX will sound nice, but the latency is too  high for real-time gaming. You **will** notice the latency with any other codec, and it will drive you insane!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [BeoPlay H8](http://www.beoplay.com/h8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These headphones are truly as wonderful to wear as the marketing says they are. The marketing is stunningly honest in the way that all of their claims have been very well substantiated by my personal experience with the headphones since May 2016 (over 3 months of daily use as of this writing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**However**, there is no implementation of Bluetooth on the market that provides *simultaneous*, *high-quality* audio playback *and* microphone capture. The standard Bluetooth profiles simply do not have anything that would make this possible. The Hands Free Profile (HFP) provides for very low-quality duplex audio, and the A2DP profile provides for very high-quality playback only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in order to build a perfect gaming setup that works with Bluetooth headphones, you're going to need to let go of the requirement to make use of the mic built into the headset, and use a mic on your desk. Some people simply won't be able to accept this, but I find it works extremely well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, since I am not aware of any Bluetooth dongles for Windows that support AptX Low Latency (this codec would have to be added to the software Bluetooth stack *on Windows*), you will have to buy a separate &quot;full stack&quot; Bluetooth transceiver for this setup. Personally I use the [Imperial BART 1](https://www.telestar.de/de_DE/IMPERIAL-BART-1/352-1482-10845/), but the [HomeSpot](https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-MultiLink-Bluetooth-Receiver-Connect/dp/B019II1JMW) will work too (make sure to get the model that says AptX Low Latency; there are several different models of device under the same product page on Amazon).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, for a mic, I just use the [Blue Yeti](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B002VA464S) (with a third-party pop filter). The mic is more than sufficient for voice; it's actually suitable for recording indie-grade music (singing and instruments).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, on to the pros and cons of the actual BeoPlay H8 headset, keeping in mind my setup above...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Quite good battery life, and it seems to be holding up well over time, at least after 3 months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Never any dropouts with the Imperial BART 1 or the Homespot. They *do* drop out with Android phones, but that's a bug in Android I believe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Truly awesome head feel, very lightweight, and feels extremely sturdy. The cups are on-ear, but the lightness of the headset prevents fatigue pain on the ears. The cups are among the most comfortable I've ever tried on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Perfect, artifact-free active noise cancellation (SO great for immersion!). The passive noise cancellation is also fantastic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sound quality with AptX Low Latency is *basically* equivalent to a high-end wired setup, as far as I can hear. It's a combination of the high quality acoustics, the perfect ANC, the drivers, the (lack of) a biased EQ in the DSP (it's very flat) and the high bitrate and very good lossy compression of AptX Low Latency (I understand that it's comparable to at least MP3, possibly with compression ratios approaching AAC, and they use a very generous bitrate with Bluetooth 4.0 or later).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The touch controls seem weird at first, but you'll get used to them. Presents a nice, clean human interface without any buttons (except the on/off switch).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - User-replaceable battery. BeoPlay sells replacement batteries for $50. These should last you a long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth 4.2 -- supports the latest Bluetooth standard, which is good for reliability and range, because they've made some iterative improvements in 4.1 and 4.2 to minimize interference with other 2.4 GHz protocols and even 4G LTE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual-purpose: you can stow these in a bag or around your neck and take them on the go with a smartphone, and they're great for making phone calls or listening to music. If you have a smartphone supporting AptX Low Latency (some do), they're even suitable for smartphone/tablet real-time gaming. No voice chat at the same time, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth limitation: no simultaneous A2DP and mic capture :( But this is not specific to this headset. Until the Bluetooth standards body introduces a proper duplex profile, we're stuck with this limitation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cost. They're definitely a luxury item, and a proper gaming setup requires the purchase of a mic and a Bluetooth AptX LL transceiver, which drives up the cost into the $600+ range ($500 + at least $50 for a decent mic + $50ish for a transceiver).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - These headphones do have some sound reliability problems after a fairly small range gap between the transceiver and your headphones. I think the BT transceiver in the headset may be Class 2 (10 meters). I can walk into the next room, but sometimes if I try to go out into the hallway and there's a wall or two between me and the transceiver, it'll start to drop out. This is with distances that never caused any sound disruption with the SteelSeries H Wireless, so there are definitely wireless solutions that have *longer* range than the BeoPlay H8 (this could be a Bluetooth limitation, or it might be particular to these cans, not sure). However, if you have a direct line of sight to the transmitter, you shouldn't have any problems all the way out to 10 meters -- it's only when I put a wall or door between me and the BART 1 that I have any reliability problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically hate the physical construction of most wireless &quot;gaming&quot; headsets because they think it's cool to use some weird triangular or polygonal shape that doesn't fit my ears at all and leaves huge gaps for air to get in and reduces immersion. They also generally lack ANC, are too heavy, and don't really have audiophile-grade sound production.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I can recommend the Siberia 800/840 if you can get over some of these limitations, the real &quot;audiophile gamer&quot; setup in my mind is with the BeoPlay H8. It's just pretty expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh, and I don't *do* wired stuff anymore. I refuse to be wired down. It's great to walk into the next room or go to the bathroom and never miss a beat (especially if you're listening to something live, like a Teamspeak room or a baseball game, and don't want to miss anything)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15227" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5505" RevisionGUID="12161a0b-033c-4ec0-a45b-bbfa79cd487d" CreationDate="2016-08-14T23:50:58.377" UserId="540" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="My suggestion is the [Corsair VOID](http://www.corsair.com/en/void-wireless-dolby-7-1-gaming-headset) headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Pros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The earcups are a departure from the ubiquitous circular/oval shapes - see the images in the link above. I find it to be an almost perfect fit around the ear without extra space. It's approx 70mm along the longer diagonal. They are circumaural (over-ear/closed cups).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is very well padded along the headband and on the earcups, with a cloth/mesh covering. They seem fairly large, where I find most other headphones to be too tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic boom is long and flexible. Many other headsets I've tried have the mic a fair distance from the mouth (shorter, maybe straight only), which is a problem for people who speak softly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic seems to be directional and does a decent job of avoiding most keyboard noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest issue would probably be the CUE software - it has a habit of halving volumes of other programs over time until they hit 0. But the software doesn't really add much value unless you really want to use the macros or lighting controls - if you just want basic audio in/out, you won't need it, as it appears to use standard USB audio drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be a bit heavy for extended listening, weighing in at 375g on the wireless model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality, as always, is subjective. I find it perfectly fine for listening to music, and I've heard no complaints about the mic quality from others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are wired and wireless options available. I'm currently using the wireless one, which has decent range with no detectable quality loss or stuttering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qHGPv.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5508" RevisionGUID="4f737652-0440-43a3-8da0-a792ab0fd999" CreationDate="2016-08-15T01:45:56.337" UserId="3836" Text="You're gonna need server-grade PCI-E bandwidth. &#xD;&#xA;[IBM-ServeRaid-M5110-8-Port-6Gbps-PCI-e-SAS-SATA-RAID-Controller-81Y4481-81Y4482][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you'll need to make sure you get some SAS to SATA breakout cables, but these drives offer serious I/O for a decent price. Consumer grade RAID cards usually fail to satisfy your needs because of insufficient PCI-E bandwidth, while modern equivalents will not really be affordable. In my experience the only difficulty is in making sure you get the drivers (but since they are well-supported this is not really an issue after all).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small note: if you don't have at least one PCI-E 8x 2.0 connection, you're boned. You may also be boned if you have lots of other devices occupying PCI-E slots. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/IBM-81Y4481-Serveraid-Controller-System/dp/B007V8S0HY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5510" RevisionGUID="b461536d-29d9-46c9-a13c-61c0c6b3e9bd" CreationDate="2016-08-15T05:09:42.100" UserId="531" Text="You can't *yet*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's high frequency monitors but they seem to top out at 1440p in most cases. Some of them may have gsync.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*All* existing 4k monitors top out at 60hz as far as I know since the 'common' flavours of HDMI (2.0 for TV oriented gear and high end video cards) and DP 1.3) don't have the bandwidth for 4k/UHD and 120hz at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd need to pick one or the other. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5511" RevisionGUID="c4218944-25fc-4a16-b5a3-c2fd44cb51f7" CreationDate="2016-08-15T10:35:43.083" UserId="4193" Text="I'm writing this with a second hand Lenovo X230 with a 12 inch screen.&#xD;&#xA;Cheap, easily repairable and [certified by Ubuntu](http://www.ubuntu.com/certification/hardware/201206-11273/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing that [needed tweaking](https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Lenovo_ThinkPad_X230#Touchpad) was the touchpad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5512" RevisionGUID="ee27d6ed-f36f-4093-97b3-def6ba171a78" CreationDate="2016-08-15T13:03:08.267" UserId="4194" Text="I'd like to replace my home lightbulbs for bulbs with on-board WiFi. I want to be able to control them with my custom &quot;smart home&quot; application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points if it let's me to control R/G/B channels separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have experience with such a product?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5512" RevisionGUID="ee27d6ed-f36f-4093-97b3-def6ba171a78" CreationDate="2016-08-15T13:03:08.267" UserId="4194" Text="Hackable WiFi-enabled LED lightbulb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15237" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5512" RevisionGUID="ee27d6ed-f36f-4093-97b3-def6ba171a78" CreationDate="2016-08-15T13:03:08.267" UserId="4194" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5513" RevisionGUID="c54c55ec-47bd-4b5e-9d73-ed1eb6a12862" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:05:27.480" UserId="3980" Text="I was wondering if there is such a thing as a high-speed MicroSD adapter. I ask this because I use a class 3 microSD when I'm recording 1080p video, but since I've been doing this, my camera's on-board cache fills up forcing the video to stop recording. Is it the adapter, or is it something else? Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5513" RevisionGUID="c54c55ec-47bd-4b5e-9d73-ed1eb6a12862" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:05:27.480" UserId="3980" Text="MicroSD Card High Speed Adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5513" RevisionGUID="c54c55ec-47bd-4b5e-9d73-ed1eb6a12862" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:05:27.480" UserId="3980" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5513" RevisionGUID="89ac7000-4826-4ed8-b180-49c3a4ca357e" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:54:24.627" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I was wondering if there is such a thing as a high-speed MicroSD adapter. I ask this because I use a class 3 microSD when I'm recording 1080p video, but since I've been doing this, my camera's on-board cache fills up forcing the video to stop recording. Is it the adapter, or is it something else?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5513" RevisionGUID="042ec89d-ce2f-4af1-b471-c93b29d51ae2" CreationDate="2016-08-15T21:44:14.387" UserId="8" Comment="remove tech-support question" Text="I was wondering if there is such a thing as a high-speed MicroSD adapter. I ask this because I use a class 3 microSD when I'm recording 1080p video, but since I've been doing this, my camera's on-board cache fills up forcing the video to stop recording." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5515" RevisionGUID="67c9c434-3081-4266-b146-b91ca09e5ad4" CreationDate="2016-08-15T23:47:21.683" UserId="3836" Text="There is no such thing; the adapter simply translates a copper connection between the mircoSD format and the SD format. It has no logic of its own and therefore will simply be as fast as the card you put into it. However, there *are* [faster cards available][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/fastest-memory-cards-money-can-buy?BI=572&amp;c3api=0980,110370500933&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw0MW9BRDxtYTn2_S699MBEiQAw33y4xX7cP-RQS9Aop-59RDNcPD5efqCAMWKzRilnfZ1CK4aAgSy8P8HAQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5516" RevisionGUID="ff13cca3-4e28-4624-9a4f-d80905417474" CreationDate="2016-08-16T05:11:20.030" UserId="237" Text="Which of these external hard drives will you choose to buy if you want a 1 TB memory regarding the fact that the price and the appearance (beauty) is not important?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Silicon Power Armor A80 External Hard Drive - 1TB][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [Silicon Power Armor A30 External Hard Drive - 1TB][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Silicon Power Armor A60 External Hard Drive - 1TB][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Silicon Power Armor A65 External Hard Drive - 1TB][4]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why and why not the others?  &#xD;&#xA;Please just compare these four products and choose between them.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;And if you want to buy a 2 TB external hard drive, which one will you choose. Again regarding that the price and appearance isn't important?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [WDBU6Y0020BBK (Western Digital Elements External Hard Drive - 2TB)][5]  &#xD;&#xA; - [WDBBKD0020BBK (&#xD;&#xA;Western Digital My Passport Ultra Premium External Hard Drive - 2TB )][6]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why and why not the other?  &#xD;&#xA;Please just compare these two products and choose between them.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Also I mean to compare the products from a technical view and the most important factor is their lifetime.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm living in Iran and I can't use guarantee, supports or anything else.  &#xD;&#xA;I just want to buy something and take the most of it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-59&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-55&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-56&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-60&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=470#Tab3&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=1490#Tab3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5516" RevisionGUID="ff13cca3-4e28-4624-9a4f-d80905417474" CreationDate="2016-08-16T05:11:20.030" UserId="237" Text="I want to compare some external hard drives model and decide which to buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15252" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5516" RevisionGUID="ff13cca3-4e28-4624-9a4f-d80905417474" CreationDate="2016-08-16T05:11:20.030" UserId="237" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5413" RevisionGUID="a8a56c12-f993-41f9-b34b-15fccc4ea2ba" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:11:06.770" UserId="4118" Comment="edit for details" Text="I use a Jabra Speak 510, very good sound quality, can do much more than just speaker but a little expensive (about 100€)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit for details : battery YES, autonomy more thant 10 hours, USB and jack 3.5mm port&#xD;&#xA;Size : round, diameter about 10cm for 2.5cm height&#xD;&#xA;Link : http://www.jabra.co.uk/business/speakerphones/jabra-speak-series/jabra-speak-510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5517" RevisionGUID="086572a6-6885-4a94-9c7e-04a6a62a4920" CreationDate="2016-08-16T08:01:03.157" UserId="586" Text="RE: the Silicon Armor units:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're talking about &quot;lifetime&quot; when operating in an ideal environment (good temperature, not a lot of hard impacts or water, mostly sitting still on a desk), none of the technical specs really give us any insight into how reliable the drives inside these enclosures actually are. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically, a drive that does not suffer from any significant physical trauma or movement while in use will last for 5 to 7 years if used frequently, assuming there are no design flaws artificially limiting its lifespan. Even with military spec protective casing like these models offer, any hard impacts or significant movement while using it will probably reduce its lifespan by a large amount. Hard drives are too precise of an instrument to be thrown around; components will start to fall apart and lose their precision (and fail soon after) in short order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only differences I could discern between the units were the levels of military spec (or lack thereof) certification, and the levels of IPX (or lack thereof) certification. The one that supports MilSpec and IPX7 is probably the best overall protected. That'd be the Armor A80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also consider that the disks themselves could be low or high-quality, the firmware / disk controller could be low or high-quality; the connector ports could be low or high-quality; etc. which could affect lifespan of the device. If warranty service is not an option, you might want to shop around for more than one vendor. Also consider the opinions of both the original poster and the commenters [here](https://www.backblaze.com/blog/enterprise-drive-reliability/) and think about whether an Enterprise-grade disk might be better (in some kind of portable enclosure).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you didn't state any criteria, for the WD disks I'll go with the My Passport Ultra because it's bigger and I (perhaps illogically) think that a larger disk is more likely to have some kind of padding / armor that'll make it more physically resistant to shock. ;-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5516" RevisionGUID="fe106db0-66da-45ec-b2b3-66d6345c061d" CreationDate="2016-08-16T09:08:40.050" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15256" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="6a1ad319-4009-480b-a2e1-bce98d5f708f" CreationDate="2016-08-16T10:51:55.357" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1114041/are-there-any-802-11n-5ghz-pci-wireless-adapters-with-working-drivers-for-window" />
  <row Id="15257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="68df3564-8ff3-4b44-9809-d068cb533506" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:20:03.667" UserId="4199" UserDisplayName="user3490" Text="I'm looking for a wifi adapter that ticks the following boxes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for Windows 10 (or if not support then at least a driver that actually works on Windows 10)&#xD;&#xA;* Fits in a PCI slot (not PCIe)&#xD;&#xA;* Can use the 5GHz wifi band&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anything like that exist? I'm currently using an ancient TL-WN851N which mostly does the job but is only capable of using the 2.4GHz band." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="68df3564-8ff3-4b44-9809-d068cb533506" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:20:03.667" UserId="4199" UserDisplayName="user3490" Text="Are there any 802.11n 5GHz PCI wireless adapters with working drivers for windows 10?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="68df3564-8ff3-4b44-9809-d068cb533506" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:20:03.667" UserId="4199" UserDisplayName="user3490" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="ab73eb8c-4632-4600-8d13-3b60c8bbc8e4" CreationDate="2016-08-16T11:05:53.650" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15261" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="1f3ec610-15f1-4fd6-b828-af86a4e933cb" CreationDate="2016-08-16T11:10:04.983" UserId="4199" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a wifi adapter that ticks the following boxes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Support for Windows 10 (or if not support then at least a driver that actually works on Windows 10)&#xD;&#xA;* Fits in a PCI slot (not PCIe)&#xD;&#xA;* Can use the 5GHz wifi band&#xD;&#xA;* Works with 802.11n or newer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anything like that exist? I'm currently using an ancient TL-WN851N which mostly does the job but is only capable of using the 2.4GHz band." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15262" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5518" RevisionGUID="1f3ec610-15f1-4fd6-b828-af86a4e933cb" CreationDate="2016-08-16T11:10:04.983" UserId="4199" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="Are there any 802.11n+ 5GHz PCI wireless adapters with working drivers for windows 10?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5519" RevisionGUID="edd1c941-d697-429d-bbd2-cfb40a375897" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:29:35.407" UserId="4139" Text="I work with a homeless resource center that would like to start lending bicycles as a service. Obviously, we'd like to have a way of tracking the bikes down if one goes missing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I need a tracking device that is easy to use and unobtrusive. We don't have a great deal of money to throw around, so the lower the price the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5519" RevisionGUID="edd1c941-d697-429d-bbd2-cfb40a375897" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:29:35.407" UserId="4139" Text="Small, inexpensive tracking device for bikes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5519" RevisionGUID="edd1c941-d697-429d-bbd2-cfb40a375897" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:29:35.407" UserId="4139" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5520" RevisionGUID="ef8aff8e-c0b4-4038-9f12-c7e0cc49fc54" CreationDate="2016-08-16T18:19:27.087" UserId="3836" Text="I can see only one option: The [Linksys WMP600N][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's capable of operating on the 5ghz band with N technology though it's not going to get the speed boost from that capability - although the interface does seem to be capable of it, the controller isn't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then again you just need it to get on the 5ghz band, so you're good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last problem for you to overcome is running it on Windows 10, but I think I've got you covered there. Linksys doesn't support the card anymore, but because I was able to determine that it uses the RT2860 chipset by Ralink, I was able to find drivers for the chipset that should work under Windows 10. Mediatek acquired Ralink at some point, it seems, so now they host the old Ralink drivers. [Here's yours][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Linksys-Wireless-N-PCI-Adapter-with-Dual-Band-WMP600N-/172111361309?hash=item2812a2f51d:g:t84AAOSwIgNXqgiU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.mediatek.com/en/downloads1/downloads/pcimpcicbrt2860rt2760rt2890/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5521" RevisionGUID="9ff7d02b-3526-49e0-9c6c-b8eb90db8497" CreationDate="2016-08-16T18:36:02.157" UserId="4199" Text="Another possible option: the TL-WN951n also seems to meet these requirements. Unconfirmed on Windows 10 but there's a windows 8 driver for it that might be compatible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5522" RevisionGUID="79e1ea4c-cfdf-4b9f-9334-3a7a6468faba" CreationDate="2016-08-16T22:16:57.213" UserId="275" Text="I'm looking for a pair of bluetooth head phones to tide me over until I can afford a good pair. (I love the Jaybird Bluebuds X - but after two years they've [broken][1].). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the best Bluetooth headphones I can get for around $US50?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Style doesn't matter -in ear/over ear doesn't matter. What we're looking for is decent sound quality, not going to fall apart, and comfortable if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://carltonbale.com/jaybird-bluebuds-x-bluetooth-headphones-review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15269" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5522" RevisionGUID="79e1ea4c-cfdf-4b9f-9334-3a7a6468faba" CreationDate="2016-08-16T22:16:57.213" UserId="275" Text="Budget bluetooth headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5522" RevisionGUID="79e1ea4c-cfdf-4b9f-9334-3a7a6468faba" CreationDate="2016-08-16T22:16:57.213" UserId="275" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15271" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5523" RevisionGUID="661c4982-401c-42d0-a42a-c80be3a6a1d3" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:48:34.123" UserId="1" Text="I believe this is on-topic as per http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/266/1 (it's a bigger electronic part). I'm up for debate on it, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Nexus 5X, and I just broke the screen. This makes me unhappy, and it's not usable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard that the LED screen is fused to the glass, which might make this harder. That said, I'd still like to attempt a repair before buying a whole new phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Budget of up to $50, but I'm flexible on that. Less is better.&#xD;&#xA; - OEM is best; I'd rather not have some kind of knockoff. I'm flexible on that too.&#xD;&#xA; - Easier to install is ideal, but I'm not afraid of using a screwdriver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the best replacement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15272" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5523" RevisionGUID="661c4982-401c-42d0-a42a-c80be3a6a1d3" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:48:34.123" UserId="1" Text="Screen replacement for Nexus 5X" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15273" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5523" RevisionGUID="661c4982-401c-42d0-a42a-c80be3a6a1d3" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:48:34.123" UserId="1" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5525" RevisionGUID="92b03cbe-2ff6-4a2c-9671-7a516a930445" CreationDate="2016-08-17T05:44:25.027" UserId="531" Text="I had a few other suggestions - kingston was highly recommended, but wasn't available at the mall I was checking out, and there were a few odd brands I've never seen elsewhere at my local store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with a razer man o war. I admit, one of the reasons I got it is aesthetic - it fits my all black rig well ;p. It also seemed to have the right sized headband&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets start with the features I *didn't* mention in my original question (some of which are useless). I'm a bit of a razer fan so the fact that the headset works with synapse is probably a feature. It supports (software emulated) 7.1 audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has what I'm told are the standard on-headset volume controls with push to silence, and it integrates well with an on screen OS for both.  The headset is retractable, and I'm told sound quality is acceptable. (Considering I used an SM 57 before, I wasn't expecting an *improvement*). Charging is over USB, and the man o war comes with a little 'dock' for your transmitter, and a usb charging cable, both of which are the standard 'soft' braided cable razer uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to lesser audiophile/professional grade headsets. The man o war feels light, tho the plastic seems sold. Most of the features are pretty standard I'm told. Sound quality is acceptable - it passes my usual quick tests. I'd have liked a *little* more padding on the headband, but that's personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In use, it feels barely there. I use it at 'default' no extension and there's no cramp. It sits over my head comfortably the ear pieces fit well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to be an odd semi open back design - I can hear what's happening around me, but I don't notice much leakage when I'm not wearing it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well for the distances I need and pairs very quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff I don't like? Chroma seems pointless, unless I get a mirror over my screen like I keep threatening to, I can't really see it. Considering these are wireless, I just turn em off. Kinda wierd rotation on the ear pieces, they turn 90 degrees one way, not the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note these are quite literally on the edge of my budget at RRP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1wdNb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5527" RevisionGUID="b38de771-9288-4d2f-9ed3-28fe568aa104" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:05:41.377" UserId="4205" Text="I'm looking for a possibility to make my desktop WiFi compatible. Currently I'm using a USB-stick that connects to the router, but it's not the best solution as it sometimes loses connection and isn't made for continuous service. &#xA;&#xA;Thus I started looking and found that PCI cards have better performance. My current pricing wish would be around 30€, but it wouldn't be a big deal if it cost more. My Mainboard is an ASRock Z77 pro3 (or 4, not sure) and the only PCI slot I'm using is for my graphics card (which blocks the neighboring slot if my memory serves me right, I'll check both of these things tonight). &#xA;&#xA;I want to sometimes play online with the card, so connection quality should be as good as possible and several hours of operation should be no problem. I'm using Win7 and (arch)Linux. &#xA;&#xA;Note that I'm not up to date on the PCI standard, so I use PCI to refer to PCI-e, 2.0 and 3.0 interchangeably. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5527" RevisionGUID="b38de771-9288-4d2f-9ed3-28fe568aa104" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:05:41.377" UserId="4205" Text="PCI(e?) WiFi card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5527" RevisionGUID="b38de771-9288-4d2f-9ed3-28fe568aa104" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:05:41.377" UserId="4205" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5528" RevisionGUID="1ba6b09a-b65f-4c15-8185-9d11c65fe8b4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T11:47:24.873" UserId="1190" Text="I have about 8 or 10 DDR-2 and 6 DDR-3 modules which I don't really need any more. I wonder whether there's a 5.25&quot; SATA hard disk drive that takes DDR RAM (you can recommend for DDR-2 or DDR-3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the size of a 5.25&quot; drive I'd estimate that it could have ~10 slots but 8 would also be ok, so it would be able to be a 16 GB to 20 GB disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the performance, it should be able to outperform an SSD when it comes to writing speed, i.e. it should be higher than 500 MB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price should not exceed 35 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5528" RevisionGUID="1ba6b09a-b65f-4c15-8185-9d11c65fe8b4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T11:47:24.873" UserId="1190" Text="5.25&quot; RAM-Disk which takes old DDR RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5528" RevisionGUID="1ba6b09a-b65f-4c15-8185-9d11c65fe8b4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T11:47:24.873" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5532" RevisionGUID="64abfe6d-b98c-41e3-b799-dc5b3c644464" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:14:35.990" UserId="57" Text="I recommend the [TP-LINK TL-WDN4800][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![TP-LINK TL-WDN4800][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This card uses PCI-E. According to your board [specs][3], you have a slot for this. You do mention your card blocks the neighboring slot - you will need to check that though, as the PCI-E slot is next to one of the slots you'd put a video card in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other features include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dual band (it operates on both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands). You should be able to connect to almost any wireless network.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with wireless networks that use the B/G/N(2.4Ghz) and A/N(5GHz) protocols&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest down side is that it is slightly above your budget at $40 (which Google tells me is currently 35.50€). &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side note, if you are willing to spend more, there is a new version of this card available too. It is the [TP-LINK Archer T6E AC1300][4]. The major difference is that this also supports the newer AC protocol. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704133&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JAmcS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/intel/z77%20pro3/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704274" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="664bfb58-68f7-4b95-b891-51f299655ad0" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:43:03.570" UserId="4206" Text="Is there a distinct hardware advantage between CPU's? My specific requirement will be for C++ coding and high end numerical analysis. I am building a new desktop system and considering the advantages of AMD vs Intel. Since graphics are of little concern, I'm having difficulty making that determination via google." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15300" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="664bfb58-68f7-4b95-b891-51f299655ad0" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:43:03.570" UserId="4206" Text="CPU Architecture" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="664bfb58-68f7-4b95-b891-51f299655ad0" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:43:03.570" UserId="4206" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5527" RevisionGUID="1082f3de-61e3-4f69-ba2d-d6d29e3c22cc" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:46:02.840" UserId="4205" Comment="Corrected things I wasn't sure about (pro3--&gt;pro4, gpu blocks slot)" Text="I'm looking for a possibility to make my desktop WiFi compatible. Currently I'm using a USB-stick that connects to the router, but it's not the best solution as it sometimes loses connection and isn't made for continuous service. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus I started looking and found that PCI cards have better performance. My current pricing wish would be around 30€, but it wouldn't be a big deal if it cost more. My Mainboard is an ASRock Z77 pro4 and the only PCI slot I'm using is for my graphics card (This graphics card blocks the neighboring PCI slot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to sometimes play online with the card, so connection quality should be as good as possible and several hours of operation should be no problem. I'm using Win7 and (arch)Linux. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I'm not up to date on the PCI standard, so I use PCI to refer to PCI-e, 2.0 and 3.0 interchangeably." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5534" RevisionGUID="0700e56c-d8dd-428b-9007-cd74f3061f72" CreationDate="2016-08-17T17:36:57.257" UserId="4208" Text="*Edit: I assume from your earlier comments that you have the earlier Nexus 7, but please correct me if I'm wrong.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you aren't requiring an e-paper display what you're effectively asking for is the 2013 revision of the Nexus 7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The Nexus 7 (2013 model) supports Android 6 Marshmallow officially.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Both the Wifi and 3G models come in at 290g and 299g respectively.&#xD;&#xA; 3. It lists for well under $250 now, having launched at $229 for the 16GB model.&#xD;&#xA; 4. It's definitely the size of a Nexus 7.&#xD;&#xA; 5. The base model starts at 16GB and there is a 32GB model available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It runs stock android since it's a Nexus device.&#xD;&#xA; 2. This is the only requirement it doesn't make, and frankly if you want real water resistance you're going to need a case, and that adds weight and size to any tablet. It can also add grippy texture or a strap which is something to keep in  mind.&#xD;&#xA; 3. This is a matter of opinion, but based on the size and rubberized type material of the back it sounds like many people can one hand it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue I see is that it's unclear whether the Nexus 7 (2013) will get an official OTA update for Android 7 Nougat, but there is some evidence that it might. You may also want to keep in mind that there are rumors of a new Nexus 7 releasing this year alongside the Nougat update and new Nexus phones. It might be a more compelling model and might also drop the prices of the older Nexus tablets like the 7's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're not going to get any closer to a stock experience than the Nexus line unless you're willing to dabble with ROMs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5535" RevisionGUID="00ff13ef-5117-4712-9999-248d4088c038" CreationDate="2016-08-17T18:50:25.567" UserId="1190" Text="I'm very happy with Intel's NUC series. I don't do gaming but I need to run memory intensive applications (testing our SAP application + running SQL server). From the NUCs I saw, the maximum supported memory is 32 GB, which unfortunately is not sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1 liter PC (if that's the right name; similar size as the NUC)&#xD;&#xA;* min. 64 GB RAM supported&#xD;&#xA;* 1 2.5&quot; SSD / HDD slot&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI connector&#xD;&#xA;* graphics card for Full HD resolution (but only 2D tasks, so it needn't be a high performance 3D graphics card)&#xD;&#xA;* Intel i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: if it comes without RAM and disk, ~500 € is ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15306" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5535" RevisionGUID="00ff13ef-5117-4712-9999-248d4088c038" CreationDate="2016-08-17T18:50:25.567" UserId="1190" Text="NUC like PC for 64 GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5535" RevisionGUID="00ff13ef-5117-4712-9999-248d4088c038" CreationDate="2016-08-17T18:50:25.567" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5536" RevisionGUID="fdaca7b3-fb34-473c-8bee-65d7b1e356d4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:02:44.333" UserId="4107" Text="I'm going to try and make this so the answer is not based on opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a desktop computer that I use for a variety of tasks: web browsing, video editing, video gaming, university projects, software development, listening to music, etc. I recently dropped my [old pair of cheap speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Frustration-CA-3602FFP/dp/B00BXF5HQ8/ref=zg_bs_172471_7), and figured it was time for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a pair of desktop/bookshelf speakers. I would like to spend less than $100-150. Now, I know that there are thousands of options in this price range, but I would like to narrow it down to two. I am either thinking of either the [Edifier R1280T](https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=zg_bs_3236451011_7) or the [Mackie CR4](https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E). I would appreciate a recommendation, if anyone has experience with these two *specific* models, for which speaker would work best for my needs. I do not know enough about audio equipment to see the pros and cons of each of these two models, and would appreciate any advice you can give me. I am also open to other suggestions, but these are the two I am primarily looking at. Here are a few things I would like to have in my new speakers, and what I am considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* hard budget of $100-150 ($150 max)&#xD;&#xA;* studio quality (for the price range)&#xD;&#xA;* clean aesthetics (basic form factor, nothing crazy)&#xD;&#xA;* RCA input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend which of these two speakers better fits the above requirements? I appreciate opinions, but I would like to keep this on-topic for this website, by rating which of the two has better sound quality, which has better bang-for-buck value, etc. I am more looking for metrics and values that can be measured, rather than just *I like this one more than that one*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5536" RevisionGUID="fdaca7b3-fb34-473c-8bee-65d7b1e356d4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:02:44.333" UserId="4107" Text="Speaker comparison for desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15314" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5536" RevisionGUID="fdaca7b3-fb34-473c-8bee-65d7b1e356d4" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:02:44.333" UserId="4107" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5537" RevisionGUID="b4295cff-411f-4ef5-99b5-a84ad2f13787" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:30:15.657" UserId="4209" Text="This somewhat depends on the compiler, linker, and interpreter.  If you are using a framework that is optimized for a certain CPU then you most likely want to go for that CPU architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the assembly level, they both use the same instruction set and there isn't a distinct advantage. With C++, if you use something like Visual Studio, I found a site that performed benchmarks on Windows 8 - VS 2012 - Firefox compile. Here are the results: [benchmarks][1]. Although this shouldn't be a definitive stamp of success for Intel since it is somewhat dated, for other benchmarks you can find on that site, Intel does win in almost all cases with the i7 architecture. So although you don't really care about graphics, other applications you may run on your machine may have noticeable differences in performance in comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, price is a consideration.  If you are needing to budget your spending, this can definitely affect your decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15316" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="5f45e092-173e-44bf-b738-cb0fdb0bec6a" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:43:20.753" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15317" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="5537" RevisionGUID="e14b946b-6db2-44fc-9296-fbe33be0ca19" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:44:11.883" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5539" RevisionGUID="fd1df5cb-8297-42f7-882b-2ba4ebf424b6" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:24:58.690" UserId="3836" Text="A more cost-effective, differently-powerful, and still very efficient solution might lie in the AMD AM1 platform - specifically, the [ASRock AM1H-ITX][1]. This 25W TDP platform sports quad core CPUs up to 2.2ghz and 16gb RAM, which should be enough for a family such as the one you described above as long as there isn't heavy file serving going on. As a bonus, this system can even sport better single-thread performance than the Atom CPUs you've been looking at, so that's something considering the price differential! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All told, you're looking at an outlay of under $500 for a [properly-kitted AM1 system][2], complete with SSD boot/cache and 1tb RAID1, completely fanless. You're not getting out of there for cheaper than that with an Intel solution that's similarly performative, but if you wanted to try, the Celeron J1900 boards might be a good start.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BVkrr7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5540" RevisionGUID="d60dd781-9e8d-45a9-aa3b-a62a0038dceb" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:40:00.720" UserId="3836" Text="So technically, YES, [there is such a thing][1]: The **Gigabyte i-RAM (second generation)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, its performance is limited to the SATA I spec, so you're not really going to get a whole lot of good stuff out of it. It's also incredibly rare - but sometimes they do go for [cheap][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's probably a better bet to put those guys into a computer that can use them as a RAM disk and then make that network attached storage over a gigabit ethernet line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I-RAM#Second_Generation_i-RAM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="b97d8a44-5bb1-42b9-b3d0-ae6b4d3200fc" CreationDate="2016-08-18T05:29:16.297" UserId="3836" Comment="Added clarifying details and turned it into a product recommendation request at the behest of the OP as noted in the comments." Text="Is there a distinct hardware advantage between CPU's? My specific requirement will be for C++ coding and high end numerical analysis. I am building a new desktop system and considering the advantages of AMD vs Intel. Since graphics are of little concern, I'm having difficulty making that determination via google.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I'm trying to determine which of the following CPUs I should go with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Opteron 6378&#xD;&#xA; - AMD FX-9590&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-5820K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be compiling software and using matlab and mathematica to do HPC. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5543" RevisionGUID="50d5f1f3-54ed-45a2-8272-b445a1b4fd12" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:08:41.507" UserId="57" Text="I am looking for a small (physically) USB drive that will also connect to a wireless network when it's in range. The goal is to have this drive connect to a non-computer device (TV, stereo, car, etc) and be able to play music stored on the device (streaming is not necessary). When it's in range of a preconfigured network, I'd like to be able to access it like any network share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SanDisk makes something that is close to my goal](https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Wireless-Smartphones-Computers-SDWS4-032G-G46/dp/B00ZCFYT5K), but has a few disadvantages that I'd like to avoid:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The use of an app to control data flow&#xD;&#xA; - Physical size of the drive. Ideally, the device would stick out no further than an inch from the USB port it is plugged into. The shorter the better.&#xD;&#xA; - Requires charging the device instead of drawing power via USB (when in Wireless mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have at least 8 GB of storage space &#xD;&#xA; - Must connect via WPA2 to a wireless network. Preconfiguration of this network is expected and can occur on a separate computer before the device is plugged into the final system. The final system may not have a way to configure the device (stereo or car). &#xD;&#xA; - Must not stick out further than 1 inch from the USB port it is plugged into&#xD;&#xA; - Must draw power from the device it is plugged into&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget for this, based on the SanDisk device, is less than $100. However, I am flexible with that, provided the storage capacity of the device is appropriate compared to price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15332" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5543" RevisionGUID="50d5f1f3-54ed-45a2-8272-b445a1b4fd12" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:08:41.507" UserId="57" Text="USB Drive with built in WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5543" RevisionGUID="50d5f1f3-54ed-45a2-8272-b445a1b4fd12" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:08:41.507" UserId="57" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5534" RevisionGUID="586c9307-8fb1-434f-a429-ac986eb8be94" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:02:44.583" UserId="4208" Comment="Altered based on asker feedback and information." Text="Your best bet currently is probably to wait for the rumored upcoming Nexus 7 2016 revision, since you want a tablet that will stay updated and your current Nexus 7 (2013) did, in fact, get updated to Android 6 Marshmallow after all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Edit: As it turns out you already own the 2013 revision; the second segment has been left for posterity.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you aren't requiring an e-paper display what you're effectively asking for is the 2013 revision of the Nexus 7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The Nexus 7 (2013 model) supports Android 6 Marshmallow officially.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Both the Wifi and 3G models come in at 290g and 299g respectively.&#xD;&#xA; 3. It lists for well under $250 now, having launched at $229 for the 16GB model.&#xD;&#xA; 4. It's definitely the size of a Nexus 7.&#xD;&#xA; 5. The base model starts at 16GB and there is a 32GB model available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It runs stock android since it's a Nexus device.&#xD;&#xA; 2. This is the only requirement it doesn't make, and frankly, if you want real water resistance you're going to need a case, and that adds weight and size to any tablet. It can also add grippy texture or a strap which is something to keep in  mind.&#xD;&#xA; 3. This is a matter of opinion, but based on the size and rubberized type material of the back it sounds like many people can one hand it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue I see is that it's unclear whether the Nexus 7 (2013) will get an official OTA update for Android 7 Nougat, but there is some evidence that it might. You may also want to keep in mind that there are rumors of a new Nexus 7 releasing this year alongside the Nougat update and new Nexus phones. It might be a more compelling model and might also drop the prices of the older Nexus tablets like the 7's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're not going to get any closer to a stock experience than the Nexus line unless you're willing to dabble with ROMs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5537" RevisionGUID="6dd431e9-ff3b-4d97-a36b-cdb511433984" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:16:17.100" UserId="4209" Comment="Updating to recommend a specific hardware so the answer is undeleted." Text="This somewhat depends on the compiler, linker, and interpreter.  If you are using a framework that is optimized for a certain CPU then you most likely want to go for that CPU architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the assembly level, they both use the same instruction set and there isn't a distinct advantage. With C++, if you use something like Visual Studio, I found a site that performed benchmarks on Windows 8 - VS 2012 - Firefox compile. Here are the results: [benchmarks][1]. Although this shouldn't be a definitive stamp of success for Intel since it is somewhat dated, for other benchmarks you can find on that site, Intel does win in almost all cases with the i7 architecture. So although you don't really care about graphics, other applications you may run on your machine may have noticeable differences in performance in comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I've noticed the question has been updated. Because of your specific requirements choices, I would definitely go with Intel. Now, between the two if you are going to utilize multi-core processing, then the Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 will be optimal.  Looking at this link: [Core i7 vs Xeon][2] you can see that in terms of multi-core processing Xeon performs better in benchmarks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last thing, if price is a factor at all the Core i7-5820K is cheaper.  Just looking at a quick price check on Google between the two, the Core i7 is cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/503&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_xeon_e5_2620_v4-643-vs-intel_core_i7_5820k-440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5545" RevisionGUID="94ce4352-7e59-4f53-b5fe-c07442c93fa9" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:55:32.937" UserId="3980" Text="I don't have any experience with the two models you mentioned. But, I'd recommend the Logitech z313 2.1 system. It goes for about $50. Logitech's website has some fairly detailed specs. It does use 3.5mm so you will need an adapter. I've had mine for about 2 years and it works very well. Something to consider I guess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also take a look at Logitech's Z623 2.1 system. 400W total, and it does have an RCA input (It can take 3.5mm also). Goes for $150 on Logitech's website and for about $130 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0-60FPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="4cd03f24-42c6-4b9a-bb13-2815a60dd43e" CreationDate="2016-08-18T16:45:47.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="8e5daaa8-ace9-4418-afc6-a09c1e41373e" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:54:27.280" UserId="1371" Comment="added 76 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless back-lit keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality which allows it to be used with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preference is for one without a keypad but I also consider ones with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asking for too much?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="8e5daaa8-ace9-4418-afc6-a09c1e41373e" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:54:27.280" UserId="1371" Comment="added 76 characters in body; edited title" Text="Laptop-sized Keyboard with Bluetooth, Wireless, &amp; Wired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="5537" RevisionGUID="51afd511-6e9a-4a83-8c31-bd6bd945809f" CreationDate="2016-08-18T18:20:55.960" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5537" RevisionGUID="dadc906b-b50c-40b0-9b8c-f9e7354dc964" CreationDate="2016-08-18T18:50:06.443" UserId="4209" Comment="Changing the wording on the last paragraph to be less redundant." Text="This somewhat depends on the compiler, linker, and interpreter.  If you are using a framework that is optimized for a certain CPU then you most likely want to go for that CPU architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the assembly level, they both use the same instruction set and there isn't a distinct advantage. With C++, if you use something like Visual Studio, I found a site that performed benchmarks on Windows 8 - VS 2012 - Firefox compile. Here are the results: [benchmarks][1]. Although this shouldn't be a definitive stamp of success for Intel since it is somewhat dated, for other benchmarks you can find on that site, Intel does win in almost all cases with the i7 architecture. So although you don't really care about graphics, other applications you may run on your machine may have noticeable differences in performance in comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: I've noticed the question has been updated. Because of your specific requirements choices, I would definitely go with Intel. Now, between the two if you are going to utilize multi-core processing, then the Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 will be optimal.  Looking at this link: [Core i7 vs Xeon][2] you can see that in terms of multi-core processing Xeon performs better in benchmarks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last thing, if price is a factor at all the Core i7-5820K can be considered over the Xeon.  Just looking at a quick price check on Google between the two, the Core i7 is cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/503&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_xeon_e5_2620_v4-643-vs-intel_core_i7_5820k-440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5533" RevisionGUID="4c3a5f1a-b8b5-4558-9468-d9d63232967e" CreationDate="2016-08-18T20:25:55.107" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15349" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="1820d571-fcef-47e4-b94f-afcdb7f615df" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:56:13.053" UserId="4208" Comment="Fixed spelling, grammar, and most of all a rather hostile tone in parts (May or may not have been intentional). Also added some updated information." Text="**Unfortunately, there are very few current 3.5&quot; Android phones on the market in 2016.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturers are trying to own the market by making phones with larger screen size(&gt;5.0&quot;) and are caring less about the compactness of the phone. It is quite difficult to find phones with a smaller display right now. Right now there are no new stock Android phones (the closest thing you can get are Nexus devices running the now-default Google apps or installing a custom ROM on some phones), but there are few other options if you are willing to compromise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1: The Moto G Generation 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is compact and small at 4.7in and has a brilliant display. It is very comfortable to hold and single-handed operation is a zing. The best part is that it runs *stock Android* out of the box and can be upgraded to Android 5.1.1 officially. There are unofficial ROMs that will upgrade it to Android 6 Marshmallow too if you choose to use them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**: I'd say it's the perfect bang for the buck. The battery is average; it's not great nor is it bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2: The J series by Samsung**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the J2 as it is the smallest of the J series at 4.7in with reasonable specs and an sAMOLED (Super AMOLED) display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sacrifice**: It is clearly not an iPhone killer and runs Touch Wiz which is, according to my experience, unrefined and hogs a lot of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're willing to get a phone that isn't running Android, then I'd suggest you go for the new iPhone 6S. If you still want to have an Android phone, by sacrificing compactness you could go for the Moto Turbo (1, 2, or the new Z variant) or the Samsung flagships the Galaxy S7 and The Galaxy Note 5 (they can be flashed to stock Android or use custom launchers) which all have much higher specs and better performance than my other reccomendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1880" RevisionGUID="1820d571-fcef-47e4-b94f-afcdb7f615df" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:56:13.053" Comment="Proposed by 4208 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 505" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5546" RevisionGUID="ec09339c-3ce3-4eeb-b188-aef5bf2dcf89" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:48:23.013" UserId="2335" Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specs. I have done a lot of searching but can't find anything that meets my requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need something light as I carry it around a lot but I need something powerful as I run VMs and develop various memory hungry Java server processes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like the answer might be found via a manufacturer that enables you to customise a model that doesn't quite meet the specs in its default configuration but will after maxing out all the configuration options. However, that makes searching for it with a search engine difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Min Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Skylake CPU&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 4lbs&#xD;&#xA; - 6 hour+ batery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Good to have but not essential**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ USB3 ports&#xD;&#xA; - VGA output&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - Built in webcam&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Extra Dealbreakers**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has to be a PC and not a Mac for reasons I won't go into for fear of a flame war!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a lot of keyboard shortcuts so the keyboard layout is important to me. The following are dealbreakers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else) &#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that don't have separate Home/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;e.g. see this image of the LG Gram 14 that requires you to press Fn and an arrow key for these buttons&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Already Rejected**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI: These caught my eye but I rejected them for the reasons below,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[LG Gram 14][2] - Only 8GB RAM and annoying keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu U904][3] - Only 10GB RAM and Haswell processor. Very light and cool looking though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/t3ZEg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lg.com/us/laptops/lg-gram-14Z950-A.AA3GU1-ultra-slim-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.fujitsu.com/fts/products/computing/pc/notebooks/lifebook-u904-red-edition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5546" RevisionGUID="ec09339c-3ce3-4eeb-b188-aef5bf2dcf89" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:48:23.013" UserId="2335" Text="High End Lightweight Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5546" RevisionGUID="ec09339c-3ce3-4eeb-b188-aef5bf2dcf89" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:48:23.013" UserId="2335" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5547" RevisionGUID="899552a8-71f4-42ab-ab4f-3a43c25a6259" CreationDate="2016-08-19T01:39:26.747" UserId="2335" Text="I have a [BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U motherbord][1] that I am using to bring an old PC back to life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power requirements should be minimal, although I don't know how to determine what the actual requirements would be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing power supply I have for the case doesn't have the right connectors for the new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case has approx. 55mmx85mmx900mm space for a PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am just refurbishing an old PC I don't want to spend too much so old models that I might be able to pick up from ebay or elsewhere can be acceptable answers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/phZ6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5547" RevisionGUID="899552a8-71f4-42ab-ab4f-3a43c25a6259" CreationDate="2016-08-19T01:39:26.747" UserId="2335" Text="What PSU Should I Get For A Mini-ITX Board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5547" RevisionGUID="899552a8-71f4-42ab-ab4f-3a43c25a6259" CreationDate="2016-08-19T01:39:26.747" UserId="2335" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5548" RevisionGUID="6349d612-4b38-42ac-aa92-c32318a28be5" CreationDate="2016-08-19T02:26:35.883" UserId="2335" Text="Sony Xperia Z5 Compact is probably the best small phone at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_z5_compact-7535.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - The camera is 23 MP.&#xD;&#xA;  - It has 32 GB storage with an external SD Card slot for up to 256 GB.&#xD;&#xA;  - The battery life is very long.&#xD;&#xA;  - Sony don't put much of a skin on their phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it is a 4.6&quot; screen. Is that really too big for you?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5549" RevisionGUID="f475779a-876f-4125-80bc-e55dbbf67b5e" CreationDate="2016-08-19T04:15:14.237" UserId="3836" Text="Without knowing environmental concerns, I'd suggest the following, so long as you don't need to power too many peripherals (it doesn't have the connectors for it): &#xD;&#xA;**[picoPSU-150-XT + 102W Adapter Power Kit][1]**. You should be able to cram the whole thing into that space, leaving just the power cord coming out. The big problem here is that pretty much any solution will not mate perfectly to whatever hole is in the other half the case which would normally have gone over where the original PSU's plug is. This is problematic for any industrial PC for a variety of reasons, but perhaps you can jerry rig a seal? Without knowing the environment of operation, it's impossible to say whether an off-the shelf DC adapter such as the one featured here would be sufficient, but you chose an off the shelf motherboard/CPU solution to your problem so I'm operating on the assumption that this might be OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantages here are that it is efficient, doesn't require active cooling, and has no moving parts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-150-XT-102-power-kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5550" RevisionGUID="08757d86-4601-40c7-a2d3-fbc54ba62f31" CreationDate="2016-08-19T04:50:59.050" UserId="3980" Text="Dell's precision mobile workstations are a pretty powerful series of laptops, albeit quite pricey. Another option could be Dell's XPS series. The nice thing about Dell's products is how much you can customize the computer to your needs (to a certain extent anyways). I've listed some specs for both below, but you should check out their website for more details. Hope this is helpful!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell Precision 15 3000 Series (Starts @ $999)][1]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7 6700HQ 2.6GHz Turbo to 3.5GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD FirePro 2GB GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB ddr4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;17 Hours of Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $1684.41&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15 (Starts @ $999)][2]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7 6700HQ 2.6GHz Turbo to 3.5GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB ddr4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;17 Hours Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $1449.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m3510-workstation/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?p=xps-15-9550-laptop&amp;view=pdetails&amp;isredir=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="399fa84c-1242-428c-8f5b-d32da5a3a094" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:18:33.853" UserId="2086" Text="Budget $200. Well, $50 to $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to be bluetooth mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have left thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be great? The best? Several?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="399fa84c-1242-428c-8f5b-d32da5a3a094" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:18:33.853" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me a good gaming mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="399fa84c-1242-428c-8f5b-d32da5a3a094" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:18:33.853" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5546" RevisionGUID="aa5a9e95-34e3-4635-a9db-879ebf5bd194" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:17:45.997" UserId="2335" Comment="Clarified as per questions in comments" Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specs. I have done a lot of searching but can't find anything that meets my requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to spend money on it, although after $3k it becomes questionable and probably a limit of about $5k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need something light as I carry it around a lot but I need something powerful as I run VMs and develop various memory hungry Java server processes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like the answer might be found via a manufacturer that enables you to customise a model that doesn't quite meet the specs in its default configuration but will after maxing out all the configuration options. However, that makes searching for it with a search engine difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Min Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Skylake CPU i5/i7 (main concern is battery life though)&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 4lbs&#xD;&#xA; - 6 hour+ batery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Good to have but not essential**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ USB3 ports&#xD;&#xA; - VGA output&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - Built in webcam&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Extra Dealbreakers**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has to be a PC and not a Mac for reasons I won't go into for fear of a flame war!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a lot of keyboard shortcuts so the keyboard layout is important to me. The following are dealbreakers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else) &#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that don't have separate Home/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;e.g. see this image of the LG Gram 14 that requires you to press Fn and an arrow key for these buttons&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Already Rejected**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI: These caught my eye but I rejected them for the reasons below,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[LG Gram 14][2] - Only 8GB RAM and annoying keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu U904][3] - Only 10GB RAM and Haswell processor. Very light and cool looking though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/t3ZEg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lg.com/us/laptops/lg-gram-14Z950-A.AA3GU1-ultra-slim-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.fujitsu.com/fts/products/computing/pc/notebooks/lifebook-u904-red-edition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5547" RevisionGUID="07c41cc3-28b3-4cb9-956d-6ff41acd10d0" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:29:49.967" UserId="2335" Comment="Added notes about case mods and environmental factors" Text="I have a [BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U motherbord][1] that I am using to bring an old PC back to life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power requirements should be minimal, although I don't know how to determine what the actual requirements would be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The existing power supply I have for the case doesn't have the right connectors for the new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case has approx. 55mmx85mmx900mm space for a PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am just refurbishing an old PC I don't want to spend too much so old models that I might be able to pick up from ebay or elsewhere can be acceptable answers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am quite happy to mod the case to make it fit - up to a point. e.g. cutting a hole for a cable is OK but having a giant PSU sticking out the side is probably not!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have replaced the motherboard with the mini-itx one above there is huge amounts of airflow. It is just going to be sitting on my desk for playing old Sega arcade games on an emulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138393&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/phZ6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="1b79f057-729b-429f-926d-a33a5ae19d5f" CreationDate="2016-08-19T16:25:23.520" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5557" RevisionGUID="8aa088e3-e09c-46a0-b8ab-814334dcd8f0" CreationDate="2016-08-19T17:01:36.517" UserId="3980" Text="Split Options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15 (Starts @ $999)][1]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7 6700HQ 2.6GHz Turbo to 3.5GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB ddr4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;17 Hours Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $1449.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?p=xps-15-9550-laptop&amp;view=pdetails&amp;isredir=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5550" RevisionGUID="87837f8c-b156-4260-a9fc-be336d70a2d0" CreationDate="2016-08-19T17:01:59.707" UserId="3980" Comment="deleted 162 characters in body" Text="Dell's precision mobile workstations are a pretty powerful series of laptops, albeit quite pricey. Another option could be Dell's XPS series. The nice thing about Dell's products is how much you can customize the computer to your needs (to a certain extent anyways). I've listed some specs for both below, but you should check out their website for more details. Hope this is helpful!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell Precision 15 3000 Series (Starts @ $999)][1]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7 6700HQ 2.6GHz Turbo to 3.5GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD FirePro 2GB GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB ddr4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;17 Hours of Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $1684.41&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m3510-workstation/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?p=xps-15-9550-laptop&amp;view=pdetails&amp;isredir=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5558" RevisionGUID="f0749c99-a09b-42bf-a981-c32ae7bc66be" CreationDate="2016-08-19T17:35:57.823" UserId="4209" Text="I highly recommend you be a little more lenient. Having said that, check out the [Razer Blade][1]. You can find that this was selected as one of the best high end laptops found here: [reviews][2].  For just some highlights, it is very portable, 14&quot; screen, 16 GB of RAM, a SSD of 512 GB, powerful GPU, 6th gen Quadcore tech, fairly decent keyboard layout, and a price that isn't ridiculous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Full Tech Specs:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Display**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;14.0&quot; IGZO QHD+, 16:9 Ratio, 3200x1800, with LED backlight, with capacitive multi-touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 970M (6GB GDDR5 VRAM, Optimus™ Technology) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor** &#xD;&#xA;Intel® Core™ i7–6700HQ Quad-Core Processor with Hyper-Threading 2.6GHz / 3.5GHz (Base/Turbo) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Chipset**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Mobile Intel® PCHM 100-series chipset, HM170 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB dual-channel onboard memory (DDR4, 2133MHz) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows® 10 (64-Bit) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256GB SSD (PCIe M.2) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;512GB SSD (PCIe M.2) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of form factor, this is about as good as it gets, otherwise you will have to sacrifice the 14&quot; screen size for a large model. I hope this helps!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/razer-blade&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ultrabookreview.com/2404-14-15-inch-ultrabooks/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15390" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="26687942-cbaf-48c2-ae84-6e3dd90efc1b" CreationDate="2016-08-19T21:15:19.037" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5559" RevisionGUID="3e5f3fc4-c1ed-481b-887d-e456e77be9a8" CreationDate="2016-08-19T22:33:15.260" UserId="415" Text="I am trying to turn an old laptop into a wireless router/repeater. The laptop's built in card is not working correctly so I can't use it. What I am looking for is a USB WiFi card that supports simultaneous AP and normal mode so I can both connect to WiFi and provide it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a card that supports only one of those modes at a time so if the performance is much better with two separate cards than I can do that but I would prefer to use only one card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5559" RevisionGUID="3e5f3fc4-c1ed-481b-887d-e456e77be9a8" CreationDate="2016-08-19T22:33:15.260" UserId="415" Text="Linux software ap card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5559" RevisionGUID="3e5f3fc4-c1ed-481b-887d-e456e77be9a8" CreationDate="2016-08-19T22:33:15.260" UserId="415" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15399" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5560" RevisionGUID="3308172c-9978-4932-9588-73f1c590a81b" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:14:46.470" UserId="4224" Text="I would recommend a ThinkPad X240. You can buy them used from eBay for a very affordable price definitely under $500. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using my ThinkPad X240 for nearly 2 years now and I am running Kubuntu. It works flawlessly out of the box, though I would recommend you install TLP and Powertop for better battery life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Haswell ultra-low voltage CPUs have great power management on the latest linux Kernel. Although there is only 1 DIMM slot, it takes up to an 8GB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also this is quite a small laptop, and the battery life is great, so it's easy to whip out quickly when you need to use it, even if you're in confined spaces.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just searching ThinkPad X240 on eBay yields many sub-$500 offerings. Don't be afraid to get a used ThinkPad, they are built really tough, even the new Lenovo ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DUP2T.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5561" RevisionGUID="2c33fa4d-d824-42b9-a54b-f214f363a9fd" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:26:50.747" UserId="4224" Text="**ThinkPad T460S:**&#xD;&#xA;===&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: i5-6200U - i7-6600U. These are Skylake ultra-low voltage CPUs, which are good for battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM**: Up to 20GB (16gb SODIMM + 4gb soldered) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I/O**: Everything you wanted, and there are options for backlit keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Display**: 14&quot; up to 1440p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You said that a dealbreaker was:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the ThinkPad BIOS allows you to [switch the CTRL and FN keys around][1], which is what I have done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://techcrunch.com/2009/11/05/we-won-lenovo-will-allow-you-swap-fn-and-ctrl-in-bios/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gxbIn.png.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5562" RevisionGUID="b6e1b774-825d-4718-b20b-4667e018dd55" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:53:51.370" UserId="4225" Text="I use Fitbit charge HR.  &#xD;&#xA;I don't like this because anxious to hit the keyboard when typing.&#xD;&#xA;So I want other activity tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It is an activity tracker that does not attach to the wrist.&#xD;&#xA;1. It is able to measure heart rate or pulse.&#xD;&#xA;1. It provides Web Application.&#xD;&#xA;1. It provides REST API." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5562" RevisionGUID="b6e1b774-825d-4718-b20b-4667e018dd55" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:53:51.370" UserId="4225" Text="Activity tracker that is worn around the neck" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15403" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5562" RevisionGUID="b6e1b774-825d-4718-b20b-4667e018dd55" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:53:51.370" UserId="4225" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="6c5b8e6a-0750-4316-98d1-a250d50fd4e5" CreationDate="2016-08-20T08:14:43.200" UserId="2086" Comment="added 201 characters in body" Text="Budget $200. Well, $50 to $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to be bluetooth mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have left thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be great? The best? Several?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless. By bluetooth is better so I do not need to plug another stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to play overwatch. Basically I need the thumb button for quick melee attack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional buttons are fine though I am not sure about the use. Maybe the more buttons the merrier. Maybe not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Touch screen like apple's mouse is great. I want wheel for easy scrolling. But if the wheel is replaced by something like touch screen it'll be even better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5564" RevisionGUID="0fa8696d-1eea-4288-a16e-37d7455d24bc" CreationDate="2016-08-20T12:40:46.457" UserId="4228" Text="This may be silly question for most of you, but i always wondered, lets say we have a pc, and a phone, why when you connect the output jack of your phone, into the input jack of the pc (the red/blue input) it does not work?&#xD;&#xA;I mean the both analog right? why dosnt the output jack behaves like a microphone or something?&#xD;&#xA;My question is not restricted to phone and pc combination only, it's for any 2 terminals with input/ouput audio jacks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15412" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5564" RevisionGUID="0fa8696d-1eea-4288-a16e-37d7455d24bc" CreationDate="2016-08-20T12:40:46.457" UserId="4228" Text="why plugin red audio jack in green audio jack does not work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5564" RevisionGUID="0fa8696d-1eea-4288-a16e-37d7455d24bc" CreationDate="2016-08-20T12:40:46.457" UserId="4228" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="4f12606b-601e-4852-94c5-15126e19969e" CreationDate="2016-08-20T14:00:16.393" UserId="2086" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="Budget $200. Well, $50 to $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to be bluetooth mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have left thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be great? The best? Several?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless. By bluetooth is better so I do not need to plug another stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to play overwatch. Basically I need the thumb button for quick melee attack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional buttons are fine though I am not sure about the use. Maybe the more buttons the merrier. Maybe not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Touch screen like apple's mouse is great. I want wheel for easy scrolling. But if the wheel is replaced by something like touch screen it'll be even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to be a start." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5565" RevisionGUID="532d5a06-fd41-472c-afaa-12be9a5d114d" CreationDate="2016-08-20T16:50:31.923" UserId="3980" Text="You might take a look at the [Photive BTH3][1] Headphones off Amazon.com They go for just under $50. They are bluetooth, over the ear, have a built in mic and have a battery life of 12 hours (as they claim). The headphones also come with a carrying case. Hope this helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Photive-Wireless-Bluetooth-Headphones-Battery/dp/B00HTPHK5W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471711523&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=photive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15421" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5564" RevisionGUID="33524c0f-d7c1-4b17-b24d-50eec2835ff3" CreationDate="2016-08-20T22:12:01.573" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15423" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5567" RevisionGUID="1ca2fba8-efb8-4bbc-82ef-e0472805064d" CreationDate="2016-08-21T01:58:53.787" UserId="1" Text="I ended up buying [the whole LCD assembly w/ frame](https://www.phonepartworld.com/lg-nexus-5X-lcd-screen-digitizer-with-frame) **($52)**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![img credit PhonePartWorld](https://www.phonepartworld.com/image/cache/data/Products/LG/Nexus%205X/1-LG-Nexus-5X-LCD-Screen-Display-Digitizer-Replacement-Assembly-with-frame-4-500x500.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image credit https://www.phonepartworld.com/lg-nexus-5X-lcd-screen-digitizer-with-frame&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It seems to be OEM; everything fit perfectly and it worked without any fiddling&#xD;&#xA; - It was fairly easy to install; I didn't need to break out a heat gun to remove the front glass itself. The hardest part was removing the back cover, which was done fairly easily with a flathead screwdriver and a credit card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only problem I have now is the volume buttons are a little harder than normal, which I suspect is a mistake I made putting it back together. I'll probably tear it apart again to fix that. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5551" RevisionGUID="68c8c4af-5453-49ca-aee0-bcc39d512ab1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T02:45:08.033" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5569" RevisionGUID="926acd1b-8941-42cf-99e2-c4b7062be932" CreationDate="2016-08-21T04:37:45.527" UserId="3836" Text="I recommend the **[LINKSYS WUSB6100M Next-Gen AC AC600 Mu-Mimo USB Adapter][1]**. This device uses an Atheros chipset, which is quite well supported on linux. It also has pretty good performance, which is surprising given its form factor. It's probably a lot more expensive than a good internal card would be, but it is well-reviewed, well supported, and has the MIMO you need to run an AP along with a client. Mind you, I haven't ever set that up in linux so I can't tell you for sure it would work, but from a pure capabilities standpoint, it *should*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124609&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Network%20-%20Wireless%20Adapters-_-N82E16833124609&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw_9-9BRCqpZeZhLeOg68BEiQAOviWAuRHa-2zi0_eQSwQk0XKmRHE-x2FChj3ObWPbvkLTTMaAljy8P8HAQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="e82c72a9-72bc-499e-8599-202c7997311e" CreationDate="2016-08-21T05:46:44.767" UserId="2512" Text="I am working on a project that needs a huge amount of memory about 512GB. The processor is not very important and can be an Intel Xeon v3 3.4GHZ. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two options: 1- buy a workstation 2- build my own computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;buying a workstation costs about $13000 from vendors like HP that maximum has 256GB of RAM and does not work for me. in addition, it is too expensive solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, just one option is left that is building my own computer. for my case, having SSD cannot be considered as a solution. &#xD;&#xA;I though I can use old memory architecture to build my computer but it is not feasible because I need a lot of slots that no motherboard can be found with ,let say,  64 memory slots (if I want to use 8GB memory).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is really appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="e82c72a9-72bc-499e-8599-202c7997311e" CreationDate="2016-08-21T05:46:44.767" UserId="2512" Text="need a workstation for a memory-bound application as cheap as possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="e82c72a9-72bc-499e-8599-202c7997311e" CreationDate="2016-08-21T05:46:44.767" UserId="2512" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5571" RevisionGUID="86b046e1-6469-451a-bc13-9622cbf7e372" CreationDate="2016-08-21T08:15:08.847" UserId="3836" Text="This fundamentally boils down to a motherboard question - what is the cheapest motherboard that can inexpensively support at least 512Gb RAM. Finding the absolute cheapest would be difficult, but I can suggest one that will not disappoint in making your total system cost a lot less than $13,000 (disgusting, innit?). Really this is going to come down to how great your ebay skills are, because the cost is going to utterly depend on the RAM modules you can acquire -and while you can reliably buy high-capacity DDR4 in stores for relatively cheap, you can *sometimes* find high-capacity DDR3 for cheap enough to justify that route. I will provide solutions for both paths. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**First, the DDR4 build** - it depends on the **[Asus Z10PE-D16][1]**. Please note that the rest of the build surrounding this motherboard is only to give you an idea of total system cost and likely configuration, and may not reflect a &quot;good&quot; design for your particular use case (Since I have no idea what you're doing, I'm just building it as I would for a sort of general use case in the vicinity of what you appear to be trying to accomplish).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor  ($179.61 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor  ($179.61 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler  ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler  ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Asus Z10PE-D16 SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011-3 Narrow Motherboard  ($389.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: MyDigitalSSD Super Cache 2 64GB M.2-2242 Solid State Drive  ($36.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card  ($17.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case  ($74.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($90.98 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM  200mm Fan  ($18.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($14.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($14.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $3814.64&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 03:54 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**For the DDR3 route**, I recommend the **[Supermicro H8DG6-F-O][2]**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Supermicro H8DG6-F EATX Dual-CPU G34 Motherboard  ($537.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Sandisk ReadyCache 32GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($58.17 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card  ($17.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Thermaltake Core V51 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($90.98 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM  200mm Fan  ($18.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Fractal Design HF14-BK 118.2 CFM  140mm Fan  ($17.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Other: [AMD Opteron 6136][3] ($5.49)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: AMD Opteron 6136 ($5.49)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: [Dynatron A13][3] 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler ($29.99)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: Dynatron A13 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler  ($29.99)&#xD;&#xA;    Other: 16x [AXIOM LV409672A8D3L13811 32GB RDIMM LDDR3][3] ($2279.20)&#xD;&#xA;    Total: $3302.15&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 04:11 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, if what you say is really true and you don't need to worry about CPU performance, then this latter option might actually be a really cool buy if you can hunt down the right parts and prices. Currently there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of 1x32gb DDR3 RAM going around at acceptable prices, but if you can source that then you've pretty much got it made.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I might also note that with 512gb of RAM in play, you're almost certainly going to want ECC RAM - both of my options are ECC - and you'll also want to consider the sanity of whatever it is you're doing. Chances are there's some clever way to cache or distribute your data so that it doesn't have to ALL live in memory simultaneously on a single machine. If you can figure that problem out then you can save a bundle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-10PED16&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Supermicro-H8DG6-F-O-Dual-Socket-G34-AMD-SR5690-V-2GbE-Extended-ATX-/172226222900?hash=item28197b9b34:g:alIAAOSwmtJXTpz7&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15436" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5571" RevisionGUID="f7f35c72-e97e-410a-97dc-30a04d31bf03" CreationDate="2016-08-21T08:20:12.387" UserId="3836" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="This fundamentally boils down to a motherboard question - what is the cheapest motherboard that can inexpensively support at least 512Gb RAM. Finding the absolute cheapest would be difficult, but I can suggest one that will not disappoint in making your total system cost a lot less than $13,000 (disgusting, innit?). Really this is going to come down to how great your ebay skills are, because the cost is going to utterly depend on the RAM modules you can acquire -and while you can reliably buy high-capacity DDR4 in stores for relatively cheap, you can *sometimes* find high-capacity DDR3 for cheap enough to justify that route. I will provide solutions for both paths. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**First, the DDR4 build** - it depends on the **[Asus Z10PE-D16][1]**. Please note that the rest of the build surrounding this motherboard is only to give you an idea of total system cost and likely configuration, and may not reflect a &quot;good&quot; design for your particular use case (Since I have no idea what you're doing, I'm just building it as I would for a sort of general use case in the vicinity of what you appear to be trying to accomplish).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor  ($179.61 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor  ($179.61 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler  ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler  ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Asus Z10PE-D16 SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011-3 Narrow Motherboard  ($389.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory  ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: MyDigitalSSD Super Cache 2 64GB M.2-2242 Solid State Drive  ($36.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card  ($17.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case  ($74.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($90.98 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM  200mm Fan  ($18.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($14.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM  120mm Fan  ($14.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $3814.64&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 03:54 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**For the DDR3 route**, I recommend the **[Supermicro H8DG6-F-O][2]** (sorry I can't put it in block quote because I needed links in there):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN&#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Supermicro H8DG6-F EATX Dual-CPU G34 Motherboard  ($537.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Sandisk ReadyCache 32GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($58.17 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($50.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card  ($17.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Case: Thermaltake Core V51 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($90.98 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA; - Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM  200mm Fan  ($18.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Case Fan: Fractal Design HF14-BK 118.2 CFM  140mm Fan  ($17.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Other: [AMD Opteron 6136][3] ($5.49)&#xD;&#xA; - Other: AMD Opteron 6136 ($5.49)&#xD;&#xA; - Other: [Dynatron A13][3] 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler ($29.99)&#xD;&#xA; - Other: Dynatron A13 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler  ($29.99)&#xD;&#xA; - Other: 16x [AXIOM LV409672A8D3L13811 32GB RDIMM LDDR3][3] ($2279.20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $3302.15&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 04:11 EDT-0400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, if what you say is really true and you don't need to worry about CPU performance, then this latter option might actually be a really cool buy if you can hunt down the right parts and prices. Currently there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of 1x32gb DDR3 RAM going around at acceptable prices, but if you can source that then you've pretty much got it made.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I might also note that with 512gb of RAM in play, you're almost certainly going to want ECC RAM - both of my options are ECC - and you'll also want to consider the sanity of whatever it is you're doing. Chances are there's some clever way to cache or distribute your data so that it doesn't have to ALL live in memory simultaneously on a single machine. If you can figure that problem out then you can save a bundle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-10PED16&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Supermicro-H8DG6-F-O-Dual-Socket-G34-AMD-SR5690-V-2GbE-Extended-ATX-/172226222900?hash=item28197b9b34:g:alIAAOSwmtJXTpz7&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15437" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="8363095e-b5f0-49eb-9c84-56b6e75c6f50" CreationDate="2016-08-21T08:57:44.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15442" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="28e8081c-3afb-434b-b81d-e601b3447092" CreationDate="2016-08-21T09:36:46.473" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="ceec5f0c-91b8-4b27-b2bf-ae0af1aa9e3c" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:30:13.903" UserId="4234" Text="Are there any good small android smartphones? I've been using LG G2 Mini for almost two years now, and it has always seemed too big for me (neither am I happy with its performance). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be honest, what I'm looking for is a phone that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. is small (given the current trend, the smaller the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. has Android&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. works well with Pokemon Go (good performance and battery). :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used a little bit of, iPhone 5s and it's just what I want, but Apple OS slightly plays on my nerves. Is there any Android phone that can compete with it over size, performance and battery?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A decent size of internal memory is also welcomed. My old LG G2 Mini got completely stuck even though I moved literally everything I could to the SD card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="ceec5f0c-91b8-4b27-b2bf-ae0af1aa9e3c" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:30:13.903" UserId="4234" Text="An Android rival for iPhone 5s?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15445" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="ceec5f0c-91b8-4b27-b2bf-ae0af1aa9e3c" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:30:13.903" UserId="4234" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5559" RevisionGUID="1de00598-d0d7-4377-834c-d8efe471188d" CreationDate="2016-08-21T15:08:10.860" UserId="415" Comment="Updated requirements" Text="I am trying to turn an old laptop into a wireless router/repeater. The laptop's built in card is not working correctly so I can't use it. What I am looking for is a USB WiFi card that supports simultaneous AP and normal mode so I can both connect to WiFi and provide it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a card that supports only one of those modes at a time so if the performance is much better with two separate cards than I can do that but I would prefer to use only one card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;The laptop also has a mini pci-e slot so I can also use a mpci-e wifi card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15447" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5559" RevisionGUID="d5658f96-3f33-4d49-bde4-0a8c525bb2f9" CreationDate="2016-08-21T15:13:30.680" UserId="415" Comment="updated reequirements" Text="I am trying to turn an old laptop into a wireless router/repeater. The laptop's built in card is not working correctly so I can't use it. What I am looking for is a USB WiFi card that supports simultaneous AP and normal mode so I can both connect to WiFi and provide it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a card that supports only one of those modes at a time so if the performance is much better with two separate cards than I can do that but I would prefer to use only one card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;The laptop also has a full length mini pci-e slot so I can also use a mpci-e wifi card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15452" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="5569" RevisionGUID="f1dd55d0-c4c1-4f63-bf08-b0f753133cb5" CreationDate="2016-08-21T19:57:10.950" UserId="3836" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15453" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5574" RevisionGUID="308b1fdb-84fd-4345-9cc2-77cd7130528b" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:00:47.950" UserId="3836" Text="OK, so the *better* answer for you is the [Atheros AR9287 mPCI-E][1] card. It is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Atheros, so well-supported in Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Can run two modes simultaneously via MIMO&#xD;&#xA; - mPCI-E, so it has the faster interface and the location in the laptop less likely to incur damage&#xD;&#xA; - Costs way less&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It is only B/G/N, does this matter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One final caveat - sometimes laptop makers put in whitelists in their BIOS to prevent people from changing the mPCI-E card in their machine. You should find out if your model has such a whitelist and either circumvent it by flashing a non-proprietary BIOS or else get the USB stick option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Atheros-AR9287-AR5B97-Wireless-802-11/dp/B008U5W3WK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="5569" RevisionGUID="2d1cf334-631b-47c8-8f8c-60337a3c8b15" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:01:50.153" UserId="3836" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5575" RevisionGUID="bc276dc3-32bf-45db-b04d-0c7d08d2dfe1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:26:25.383" UserId="3836" Text="So, this isn't the smallest 4&quot; phone, but I was amazed to find a phone like this, so I'm going to put it out here because I wasn't aware these kinds of phones existed - I recommend the **[Sonim XP7][1]**. This phone is kind of a monster. It's a little short on the internal memory at 16gb with no way to add more, so that is a concern, but... this thing has a 40h talk time. That's crazy. It's also very well reviewed for its GPS performance. The CPU and RAM match or beat the 5s. But yeah, it is a little bigger, and yeah, it doesn't really match up in terms of storage capacity. Still, you can find it on the [used market][2] for pretty darn cheap. [Here's a comparison][3] across all the considered devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/sonim_xp7-6828.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonim-XP7700-Built-For-Life-Military-Grade-AT-T-/272277419683?_trksid=p2352135.m2548.l4275&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone1=6828&amp;idPhone2=5685&amp;idPhone3=6077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5576" RevisionGUID="ee92eb81-f9b1-4521-b7cb-b8abbd16c26d" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:31:43.117" UserId="3836" Text="Get the **[Logitech - MX Master Wireless Laser Mouse][1]**. It's got a good bluetooth-based connection technology that is dead simple to use, it has a thumb button, and it enjoys a decent DPI for twitch shooting like Overwatch. I would actually recommend not getting too crazy with the buttons for games like Overwatch, because you don't want to be accidentally setting off ultimates or things like that in hectic situations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-mx-master-wireless-laser-mouse-black/4106015.p?id=1219621556487&amp;ref=199&amp;loc=8BacdVP0GFs&amp;acampID=1&amp;siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-SWOiOt0giGlgLWzpN4uMRQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5578" RevisionGUID="ac7a467c-98a5-4b8f-89f1-bef563334c29" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:43:57.200" UserId="951" Text="What would you recommend for daily, heavy use monitor? It'll be used mainly for programming, with breaks for gaming (grpahics GeForce GTX 960 4GB) and good series/films. Important are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: HD, WUXGA or WQHD (1080p - 1440p)&#xD;&#xA; - 24 - 27 inch&#xD;&#xA; - Good color quality with evenly distributed back-light&#xD;&#xA; - Reliable - my current Eizo lit alredy 27000 hours with nothing but one bad pixel, that's the lifespan I'd expect&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found Eizo EV2450-BK and Dell U2515H to fit my requirements (that's also price range +/- 100$). What do you think you'd buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15461" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5578" RevisionGUID="ac7a467c-98a5-4b8f-89f1-bef563334c29" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:43:57.200" UserId="951" Text="Monitor for multimedia and programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15462" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5578" RevisionGUID="ac7a467c-98a5-4b8f-89f1-bef563334c29" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:43:57.200" UserId="951" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="e81f5e3d-68a7-425a-8bee-3015af1f9fec" CreationDate="2016-08-21T23:01:09.820" UserId="2512" Comment="deleted 289 characters in body" Text="I am working on a project that needs a huge amount of memory about 512GB. The processor is not very important and can be an Intel Xeon v3 3.4GHZ. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to build a computer with this amount of memory? &#xD;&#xA;what motherboard has enough slots for this memory size?&#xD;&#xA;I read [this article][1], but their suggested workstation has just 64GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is really appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.techspot.com/review/1218-affordable-40-thread-xeon-monster-pc/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="8d5a7590-6644-4cec-9396-158cc1badb86" CreationDate="2016-08-21T23:06:47.990" UserId="2512" Comment="deleted 289 characters in body" Text="I am working on a project that needs a huge amount of memory about 512GB. The processor is not very important and can be an Intel Xeon v3 3.4GHZ. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to build a computer with this amount of memory? &#xD;&#xA;what motherboard has enough slots for this memory size?&#xD;&#xA;I read [this article][1], but their suggested workstation has just 64GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want to buy an HP H840 workstation that can cost at a crazy price like $13000(!!!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for the cheapest workstation form factor motherboard which can hold 512gb of RAM with a total system cost as low as possible.My budget is about $2700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is really appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.techspot.com/review/1218-affordable-40-thread-xeon-monster-pc/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5579" RevisionGUID="87e1e182-e3a2-4f17-a0f7-5a4c24135adc" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:17:28.030" UserId="2335" Text="**[Toshiba Tecra Z40][1]**&#xD;&#xA;===&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw a link on reddit for this and although the online reviews for this aren't especially great, you notice that they have the base model. When you  go to the site you find out you can configure nearly everything! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I turned the dials up to 11 (apart from the touchscreen) to get this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Tecra Z40 SkyLake	1,399.00&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® Core™ i7-6600U Processor (vPro)	150.00&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA® GeForce® 930M w/ 2GB DDR3	120.00&#xD;&#xA; - 14.0-inch diagonal widescreen FHD 1920 x 1080 display	60.00&#xD;&#xA; - No Touchscreen	0.00&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR3L 1600MHz = 8 GB x 2	195.00&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB M.2 SATA Solid State Drive (SSD)	350.00&#xD;&#xA; - TPM 2.0, Fingerprint Reader, SmartCard Reader	10.00&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit, Spill Resistant Keyboard (keys all in the right place!)&#xD;&#xA; - FHD Webcam with Dual Microphones&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 (3), RGB, HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - SD Card Reader&#xD;&#xA; - Docking Connector&#xD;&#xA; - 4-cell 60 Wh Li-Ion Battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: 2284.00 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far this is the only one that meets all the specs. The customisation on the site was key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/tecra/Z40/available-models" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5561" RevisionGUID="12002de9-3254-43a4-a977-66674292ad5d" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:48:17.770" UserId="2335" Comment="Added a link to the Lenovo site" Text="**[ThinkPad T460S][1]:**&#xD;&#xA;===&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: i5-6200U - i7-6600U. These are Skylake ultra-low voltage CPUs, which are good for battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM**: Up to 20GB (16gb SODIMM + 4gb soldered) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I/O**: Everything you wanted, and there are options for backlit keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Display**: 14&quot; up to 1440p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You said that a dealbreaker was:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the ThinkPad BIOS allows you to [switch the CTRL and FN keys around][2], which is what I have done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/ca/en/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t460s/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://techcrunch.com/2009/11/05/we-won-lenovo-will-allow-you-swap-fn-and-ctrl-in-bios/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gxbIn.png." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15469" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5561" RevisionGUID="12002de9-3254-43a4-a977-66674292ad5d" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:48:17.770" Comment="Proposed by 2335 approved by 155 edit id of 508" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5580" RevisionGUID="5396d5fd-96c0-4f98-964b-435a33979ce6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:01:26.140" UserId="4132" Text="I'm currently using a 1080 monitor with 60 Hz. Suppose you want to drive a 24&quot; adaptive-sync and lightboosted TN monitor with a +10% overclocked 1080 GTX: Does 4k@60Hz make more sense than a 1080@144Hz? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a Youtube video of a PC gamer saying that he *enjoyed* gaming in 144 Hz, but he was *amazed* by 4k. However, I've also read a review by someone saying that you won't enjoy the 4k resolution until you hit 40&quot; as the pixel density is too high at lower screen sizes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course we're comparing apples and oranges here, but I would still like to ask someone informed whether an increased **pixel density** will **satisfy the *average* gamer more** than the increased **refresh rate**. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15471" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5580" RevisionGUID="5396d5fd-96c0-4f98-964b-435a33979ce6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:01:26.140" UserId="4132" Text="At 24&quot;, does a 4k resolution at 60 Hz offer a better &quot;gaming experience&quot; compared to a 1080p resolution at 144 Hz?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5580" RevisionGUID="5396d5fd-96c0-4f98-964b-435a33979ce6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:01:26.140" UserId="4132" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5580" RevisionGUID="5c03cca1-7a54-477f-a72a-69bca4a4e465" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:18:36.267" UserId="4132" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I'm currently using a 1080p-resolution monitor with a refresh rate of 60 Hz. Suppose I want to drive a 24&quot; adaptive-sync and lightboosted TN monitor with a +10% overclocked nVidia 1080 GTX GPU: Does 4k@60Hz make more sense than a 1080@144Hz? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a Youtube video of a PC gamer saying that he *enjoyed* gaming in 144 Hz, but he was *amazed* by 4k. However, I've also read a review by someone saying that you won't enjoy the 4k resolution until you hit 40&quot; as the pixel density is too high at lower screen sizes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course we're comparing apples and oranges here, but I would still like to ask someone informed whether an increased **pixel density** will **satisfy the *average* gamer more** than the increased **refresh rate**. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5580" RevisionGUID="7fcdddc5-edc4-4f90-b674-a8125ebbed59" CreationDate="2016-08-22T07:53:21.340" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5581" RevisionGUID="a1fbc985-d077-491d-9b92-a75aa8d2cdaf" CreationDate="2016-08-22T08:15:11.713" UserId="951" Text="The benefit of framerate is not lineary increasing, as your eye does not notice the difference between 60 and 120 Hz as succintly as 30 vs 60 (if at all). Please consult: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Can the Average Gamer See More than 60Hz??? NCIX Tech Tips][1]&#xD;&#xA; -  [How Many FPS Can Your Eye See?][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [The law of diminishing returns][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, human eye has effective resolution of about 8 Mpx (please see for detais: [What Is The Resolution Of The Eye?][4]). The problem whether you see a difference is well discussed here: [Can you see the difference with a 4K monitor?][5] (brief: yes, you'll definietely see a difference, unless monitor is too small/you sit too far).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a question worth thinking about, but I'd go for crisp picture or would consider something in between: ex. WQHD (1440p) resolution and 120 Hz. Also, keep in mind, that color quality and even back-light are also very important factors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWEpIwNDeCA&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhSHeYT2U70&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diminishing_returns&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I5Q3UXkGd0&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Can-you-see-the-difference-with-a-4K-monitor-729/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5582" RevisionGUID="eff039a1-2f89-4e1f-a522-c120a19c1f34" CreationDate="2016-08-22T13:58:13.057" UserId="3836" Text="I think you're definitely going to want a monitor with LED backlighting, like the [Acer G257HL BMIDX][1]. At ~125.00, who cares how long it lasts? Everything else about it meets your spec, and I have good experiences with Acer monitors in general. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would personally not ask the GTX 960 to perform at 1440p, so there's that, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009720&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15480" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="f9d1ec40-caae-4df4-a4e2-eb6aaf2574ad" CreationDate="2016-08-22T17:41:27.640" UserId="715" Comment="Identify Windows applications that I use in Wine; Android Nougat may ease the &quot;10 inch calculator&quot;" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis [come Firefox 49][Electrolysis schedule] or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points. (5 GHz would be nice to have but is not critical because 2.4 GHz works.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves. Even if I were to carry it in a backpack, I'm still unsure of how I would test-drive the ability to use a larger laptop in the somewhat cramped quarters of a bus seat.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive, though admittedly not as big as other 13&quot; laptops.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU, namely FCEUX debugging edition, FamiTracker, and No$sns.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch laptop (or tablet with clip-on keyboard) running Android would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. (Android Nougat might change this.) I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told [tools by John Lewis](http://johnlewis.ie/) can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband. The price difference between my current flip phone plan and a smartphone data plan allowing tethering would likely exceed my budget.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Electrolysis schedule]: https://wiki.mozilla.org/Electrolysis#Schedule&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5583" RevisionGUID="aec39f67-3870-487a-890d-2d1ab7747dc6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:10:11.123" UserId="4239" Text="Is there a piece of hardware that can connect two monitors to a single video port?  I want to fool an Xbox into thinking that it's connected to a single monitor, when in fact that display area is made up of two monitors on top of each-other.  Something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    --------------&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    |------------|&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    |            |&#xD;&#xA;    --------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xbox would only see then outer rectangle, not realizing that there are two monitors present.  Does such an adapter exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5583" RevisionGUID="aec39f67-3870-487a-890d-2d1ab7747dc6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:10:11.123" UserId="4239" Text="Split XBox Screen across multiple monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15483" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5583" RevisionGUID="aec39f67-3870-487a-890d-2d1ab7747dc6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:10:11.123" UserId="4239" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15484" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5570" RevisionGUID="1d1be34a-b179-4bb0-b515-9a093c0704e6" CreationDate="2016-08-22T20:32:54.013" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5584" RevisionGUID="ece5f2c8-00a5-454b-b8a5-b0bae3841c76" CreationDate="2016-08-23T00:34:49.210" UserId="4241" Text="I am looking for a cheap ($50 or less, although if needed my max price range could be $70) rgb backlit keyboard that moves colors in a wave fast like the Razer Blackwidow Chroma. Mechanical is preferred but I'll take what I can get. If you don't know what the Razer Blackwidow Chroma wave mode looks like, go here: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-blackwidow-chroma#clicky as you can see it moves extremely fast across the keyboard. Thanks! :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15486" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5584" RevisionGUID="ece5f2c8-00a5-454b-b8a5-b0bae3841c76" CreationDate="2016-08-23T00:34:49.210" UserId="4241" Text="Good, CHEAP RGB backlit keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15487" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5584" RevisionGUID="ece5f2c8-00a5-454b-b8a5-b0bae3841c76" CreationDate="2016-08-23T00:34:49.210" UserId="4241" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5585" RevisionGUID="6cd07b5e-d484-4918-8dd2-d33aec791f86" CreationDate="2016-08-23T03:58:34.710" UserId="3836" Text="What you're looking for is called a **Video Wall Controller**. These are the boxes that you see behind the massive arrays of screens showing a single composited image in the big chain stores. They usually run around a $1000 or more. Without knowing the monitors involved I can't make a recommendation on which one to use. I know of no such products priced at private consumer levels, since usually that part of the market just uses a PC with two video outs to achieve the same thing (except, of course, that the video source has to come from the PC. You might try to rig up something with an HDMI-in capture card being passed out to two HDMI ports off a PC, but you wouldn't probably get true extended screen support - more like you'd have to span the image in a window drawn across both screens. Alas)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="c795dd86-de25-44f3-a01a-97d9c89c809c" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:42:02.140" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/53853/blackberry-sized-mini-usb-keyboard-for-rpi" />
  <row Id="15494" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="40af286a-3ae8-450d-b198-578b5716e9c7" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:08:02.537" UserDisplayName="MadMass" Text="i'm looking for a mini-keyboard. Not the average mini keyboard you can find on amazon, but a really small one, approx. the size of those you can find on some smartphones, i.e blackberry.&#xD;&#xA;I'm working on a rpi-powered pocket device, so the keyboard musn't exceed 10cm wide.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for you help !" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="40af286a-3ae8-450d-b198-578b5716e9c7" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:08:02.537" UserDisplayName="MadMass" Text="Blackberry-sized mini usb keyboard for RPI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="40af286a-3ae8-450d-b198-578b5716e9c7" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:08:02.537" UserDisplayName="MadMass" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2038" RevisionGUID="fd4176b7-f85c-400d-993c-9ba2f5a40740" CreationDate="2016-08-23T12:06:46.980" UserId="1802" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a DVR like product capable of following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can connect to various CCTV cameras (with a standard BNC output) &#xD;&#xA;  mostly PAL CVBS.&#xD;&#xA;- downloading of historical data can be performed remotely (nightly) over a secured channel (SFTP, SSH, Windows share etc.), eventually less secure FTP etc. from a distant location over IP network, the format should be preferably chunks of some standard video format like mp4 with H.264 codec&#xD;&#xA;- supports options to embed real-time video output into a custom web page or windows app&#xD;&#xA;- supports good motion detection and good quality with options (ideally storing both motion detected scenes and the whole time separately)&#xD;&#xA;- it would be nice to have a good metadata about videos created, so that output recordings time vs. motion detection could be created programatically&#xD;&#xA;- can be setup to delete old recordings automatically or programatically&#xD;&#xA;- provides option to connect external monitor to show real-time cameras' pictures on site&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering creating an intranet video surveillance server. So I am looking for a DVR with good automation options. Ideally with video surveillance server software option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, I just need a good universal and not too expensive device even without points 2 - 3 (downloading ..., embedded video output), if there are any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15499" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5588" RevisionGUID="09fc3c97-ee9d-4aff-9f80-ea64fcafaaed" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:49:46.097" UserId="3836" Text="I almost hesitate to recommend this, because you do buy it on Amazon, but given that I've personally used this product with my raspberry pi and had great satisfaction with it, I can't resist. What you really want is the **iPazzPort 3D Gyroscope Fly Air Mouse Mini Wireless Handheld Keyboard for Andriod TV&amp;PC**. Whew that's a long title, but iPazzPort is short on marketing genius and long on product functionality, fortunately. They have different models available - the more recent ones [weirdly apparently integrate SIPphone technology][1] into the keyboard/mouse set, but [the model I used][2] was just a keyboard/mouse combo smaller than a candybar that fit in my pocket quite easily. Better yet, it used a standard phone battery, which was replaceable, and the 2.4ghz wireless dongle required no driver installation on any linux or windows system I ever used it on. The mouse is a gyro air mouse kinda like what you'd find in the standard Wii controller, but it proved to be a very functional solution to the idea of a mobile mouse, because the touchpads on these little guys' cousins are just too small to be of much use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're not the cheapest you could find, or the prettiest, but I always liked mine and it never let me down. The compatibility was, for me, the killer feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/iPazzPortTM-Gyroscopic-Integrated-Technology-KP-810-16AV/dp/B00FEYS3WY/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471958722&amp;sr=1-39&amp;keywords=iPazzPort&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://iPazzPort%203D%20Gyroscope%20Fly%20Air%20Mouse%20Mini%20Wireless%20Handheld%20Keyboard%20for%20Andriod%20TV&amp;PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="e4f5e405-ee48-4ac5-8f42-e3728fa38a5d" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:52:10.173" UserId="1683" Comment="copy editing" Text="I'm looking for a mini-keyboard. Not the average mini-keyboard you can find on amazon, but a really small one, approx. the size of those you can find on some smartphones, i.e Blackberry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm working on a rpi-powered pocket device, so the keyboard mustn't exceed 10cm width.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for you help !" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15501" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="e4f5e405-ee48-4ac5-8f42-e3728fa38a5d" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:52:10.173" UserId="1683" Comment="copy editing" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15502" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="e4f5e405-ee48-4ac5-8f42-e3728fa38a5d" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:52:10.173" Comment="Proposed by 1683 approved by 3836, -1 edit id of 509" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5586" RevisionGUID="01004834-746f-4d39-8cb5-4f51eb298d28" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:52:10.173" UserId="60" Comment="copy editing" Text="I'm looking for a mini-keyboard. Not the average mini-keyboard you can find on amazon, but a really small one, approx. the size of those you can find on some smartphones, i.e Blackberry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm working on a rpi-powered pocket device, so the keyboard mustn't exceed 10cm width." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="254e51d6-045a-4133-aa7e-0f3834a599b9" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:40:19.847" UserId="4245" Text="If the only thing you are looking for is RGB backliting, you can find it at cheap &quot;gaming&quot; manufacturers but it really is a waste of money. If you are looking for a mechanical keyboard (backlit or not) I suggest you look at coolermaster keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;Also you should take a look at reddit/r/mechanicalkeyboards, they have a really in depth wiki and a great comunity that will help you find exactly what you want !" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="bf0736dd-3d07-4dd8-bb5c-5e59a2e5e02e" CreationDate="2016-08-23T15:24:19.010" UserId="4245" Comment="added 156 characters in body" Text="If the only thing you are looking for is RGB backliting, you can find it at cheap &quot;gaming&quot; manufacturers but it really is a waste of money. If you are looking for a mechanical keyboard (backlit or not) I suggest you look at coolermaster keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;For exemple the coolermaster quickfire (can be found backlit or not), it's really solid and it cost around 100 USD, you can find it at 70-80 USD on sales.&#xD;&#xA;Also you should take a look at reddit/r/mechanicalkeyboards, they have a really in depth wiki and a great comunity that will help you find exactly what you want !" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5592" RevisionGUID="04398d47-32ac-4b75-bb53-13b6f8b37d2e" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:58:36.073" UserId="4249" Text="I have a mac mini that I am now using as a server, and I need to prevent data corruption in case of blackouts, brownouts, power cuts, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I first wanted to use some battery backup PSU, but my possibilities could be limited, since it's a mac mini. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything like a battery, whose input for charge is from the socket, and it's output is a male AC power cord that fits into the mac mini, that can be used as a battery backup in case of cuts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15512" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5592" RevisionGUID="04398d47-32ac-4b75-bb53-13b6f8b37d2e" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:58:36.073" UserId="4249" Text="External battery backup for mac mini's AC power cord" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5592" RevisionGUID="04398d47-32ac-4b75-bb53-13b6f8b37d2e" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:58:36.073" UserId="4249" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="fb3c6161-3d54-4505-b94b-fd5877990280" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:35:25.187" UserId="8" Comment="40" />
  <row Id="15523" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="00c19279-859d-49e0-9049-f6bc0eaae8d4" CreationDate="2016-08-24T01:00:21.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="6a696c82-4f46-41b3-b0c2-f680879d5ff1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T07:46:55.510" UserId="4245" Comment="added 603 characters in body" Text="First thing first, this keyboards are overall really well built, solid and reliable for a reasonnable price. However you will have a hard time founding what you are looking for in the 50-70 USD price range so the following keyboards are going to be in the 80-150 USD price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you know that, you want to choose if you need the numerous keypad on the right, you will chose Quickfire XT if you need it and TK if you don't. (It really come down to preferences but I think that for gaming the TK version is better and cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you want backlighting you'll need to drop some more money for a TKi or a XTi, they are modable so you can download custom backlighting templates on the internet to customize the way the leds light (I don't have any link right now but I've seen keyboards moded just like you described it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately if the thing you're looking for really is a razer RGB like lighting you'll need to go to razer where the price is insanely high and the quality is much decieving but this is the gaming market right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can't spend more than 100+ USD you will be forced to chose between fancy RGB and quality build :/ That's why I found coolermaster to be a good compromise between both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Fixed whole answer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="1de721fd-4d3f-4581-896c-3f9fb020c4e2" CreationDate="2016-08-24T08:34:30.300" UserId="8" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="First thing first, this keyboards are overall really well built, solid and reliable for a reasonnable price. However you will have a hard time founding what you are looking for in the 50-70 USD price range so the following keyboards are going to be in the 80-150 USD price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you know that, you want to choose if you need the numerous keypad on the right, you will chose **Quickfire XT** if you need it and **Quickfire TK** (both from coolermaster) if you don't. (It really come down to preferences but I think that for gaming the TK version is better and cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you want backlighting you'll need to drop some more money for a TKi or a XTi, they are modable so you can download custom backlighting templates on the internet to customize the way the leds light (I don't have any link right now but I've seen keyboards moded just like you described it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately if the thing you're looking for really is a razer RGB like lighting you'll need to go to razer where the price is insanely high and the quality is much decieving but this is the gaming market right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you can't spend more than 100+ USD you will be forced to chose between fancy RGB and quality build :/ That's why I found coolermaster to be a good compromise between both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Fixed whole answer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15533" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="5589" RevisionGUID="3bb45cff-670d-4d4f-8deb-6650b7225e34" CreationDate="2016-08-24T08:34:35.017" UserId="8" Comment="40" />
  <row Id="15535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5596" RevisionGUID="504a2020-7a2d-40ba-9400-3659c05db4bc" CreationDate="2016-08-24T09:32:35.517" UserId="3902" Text="As said before, to that price, you will not found something that satisfies all your requirements. A few month ago, I was in the same situation: looking for a RGB, mechanical, well built keyboard at a price as low as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously I had to make some concessions and I finally went to the **Corsair Strafe**. This keyboard is very well built (plastic, but good plastic) and is &quot;only&quot; 100€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's higher than your price range (like the Quickfire XT / TK) but at this price you have **RED** backlight that is fully customisable. It also comes with a numpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One more thing, becarful to the type of Cherry MX you choose (Corsair Strafe is sold in several versions in which the type of switch is different).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*You'll notice that the Strafe also exists in an RGB version, at 170€.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5598" RevisionGUID="d3e3da84-2dd6-4f25-8836-5f7ed29f93d0" CreationDate="2016-08-24T14:15:57.600" UserId="531" Text="Eizos are pretty much the rolls royce of monitors. They make the best and terribly pricey monitors for graphics professionals and their build quality and warranties kind of match that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, my sensible go to brand for monitors is dell. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm going to suggest an IPS display (for excellent colour *quality*) and factory caliberation (which means the panel ought to be consistent, and of good quality. 1440p seems to be a happy medium. I'd go with the Dell U2515H in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell's got excellent build quality as far as their P series monitors go, and like my p2715q, its factory caliberated (which includes checks for consistant brightness, colour quality and so on). It also has an *excellent* built in stand allowing for a full range of motion (which is awesome!) on vertical height and rotation, as well as some tilt. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its the 'closest' option to your eizo I can think of, and I've generally had great experiences with their monitors&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="54cd2866-dcdd-4830-8ff7-e84369024715" CreationDate="2016-08-24T16:34:10.570" UserId="4259" Text="I want to purchase a laptop for my job. I was need it to do photo editing, short film. Any recommand laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="54cd2866-dcdd-4830-8ff7-e84369024715" CreationDate="2016-08-24T16:34:10.570" UserId="4259" Text="Any recommand laptop for photo editing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="54cd2866-dcdd-4830-8ff7-e84369024715" CreationDate="2016-08-24T16:34:10.570" UserId="4259" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15548" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="e31aa2c7-f94e-420c-ae03-ed9223f92c6b" CreationDate="2016-08-24T16:40:28.273" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15550" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5578" RevisionGUID="bb87d2a9-87fd-41e9-a22d-ba15a0276999" CreationDate="2016-08-24T17:56:50.720" UserId="951" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="What would you recommend for daily, heavy use monitor? It'll be used mainly for programming, with breaks for gaming (grpahics GeForce GTX 960 4GB) and good series/films. Important are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: HD, WUXGA or WQHD (1080p - 1440p)&#xD;&#xA; - 24 - 27 inch&#xD;&#xA; - Good color quality with evenly distributed back-light&#xD;&#xA; - Reliable - my current Eizo lit alredy 27000 hours with nothing but one bad pixel, that's the lifespan I'd expect&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found Eizo EV2450-BK and Dell U2515H to fit my requirements (that's also price range +/- 100$). What do you think you'd buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT]&#xD;&#xA;Exact price up to 450$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5601" RevisionGUID="c1e3f3f0-c80e-4e34-b793-380c2e70e7eb" CreationDate="2016-08-24T23:38:22.060" UserId="531" Text="Looking through the [wirecutter's picks for best 27 inch monitor][1], they've suggested the p2715H.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a firm beliver in higher pixel density for working on text and graphics, but size has a quality on its own. 27 inches to me is 'ideal' for working on a single screen at my typical working distances (I use dual screens, but context switch, or move back a little).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the features of the 2415H is true here - factory colour caliberation and consistancy checks, and the same very flexible. Its got thin bezels and its a good, solid workhorse monitor if you have the deskspace. I'd note many people, including [Jeff Atwood][2] use one or more 27&quot; monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd consider the P2715Q a step up - when Ihad a 660, I was gaming at 1440p and doing many other things at 4k. Its worth a look as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-27-inch-monitor/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-ips-lcd-revolution/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="129b5e31-f793-4855-a0de-9355cb1ddeb5" CreationDate="2016-08-25T00:39:02.597" UserId="4259" Comment="update with product,requirement,budget" Text="I want to purchase a laptop for my job. I was need it to do photo editing, short film. Any recommand laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;main program that i use is adobe product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i need a screen with FHD 1920x1080 , processor need to be i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my budget will be around $600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="886004ea-06ef-44e4-8b12-5dd52bb8c0d8" CreationDate="2016-08-25T01:06:01.463" UserId="2393" Text="I have been searching high and low for a device that I can use the touchscreen capabilities of OneNote without breaking the bank.  I really like the Surface 4, but I am not in the financial position where I can drop $800 on the tablet and another $150 on the keyboard.  Currently, I have tried taking notes on my Lenovo Flex 2 and my Samsung Galaxy Tab 3, both where hamydowns that I took because I thought they'd work for taking notes, but neither can even come near to being usable.  The two main problems are that it is hard to draw continuous lines, and there is no easy way to switch the writing instrument so it is easy to fall behind while the lecture is going on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something out there like the Microsoft Surface, mainly concerning the OneNote integration, that does not have such a hefty price tag?  My budget is around $500, and pen + keyboard inclusion is a must.  It does not have to be a Windows device (Android would be okay too), but it needs to be responsive enough that the device lag won't be a hindrance on note taking. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="886004ea-06ef-44e4-8b12-5dd52bb8c0d8" CreationDate="2016-08-25T01:06:01.463" UserId="2393" Text="Budget 2-in-1 for taking lecture notes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="886004ea-06ef-44e4-8b12-5dd52bb8c0d8" CreationDate="2016-08-25T01:06:01.463" UserId="2393" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="34c8729d-2eab-42b1-8f6a-81ddc376f49d" CreationDate="2016-08-25T06:25:30.727" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar for clarity" Text="I want to purchase a laptop for my job. I need it to do photo editing and short film editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Main programs I use are Adobe products&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need an FHD 1920x1080 screen, processor needs to be an i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My budget is around $600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15560" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="34c8729d-2eab-42b1-8f6a-81ddc376f49d" CreationDate="2016-08-25T06:25:30.727" UserId="155" Comment="improved grammar for clarity" Text="Recommendation for laptop for photo editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="a0fbcc0c-acb8-42f0-9a6e-930a4d1ae009" CreationDate="2016-08-25T06:25:30.887" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15562" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="0affef60-2fe2-499b-8c5b-05e9c44fe0d7" CreationDate="2016-08-25T07:30:06.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5603" RevisionGUID="4c46a9d4-d056-4fa8-beb8-5f07983c27c7" CreationDate="2016-08-25T09:37:05.670" UserId="3902" Text="For two years now, I bought the Lenovo Y510p for 700€. You can find it at a lower price for now (in addition, I bought the version with a second GPU, which was a bit more expensive, instead of the optical drive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm recommending this laptop because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its in your price range&#xD;&#xA; - It has a I7 4702MQ&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of ram which might be useful for Adobe products&#xD;&#xA; - Has a FHD screen which had (at the time) good review about its contrast, colorimetry etc. wich is, I think, a good point for your usage.&#xD;&#xA; - In addition to the Intel's IGB, you have a GT755m wich is useful for media works (at least for video editing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know Lenovo released its successor but it has a terrible screen (according to the tests I read 2 years ago)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5603" RevisionGUID="b8e6709d-49ba-467b-99f8-b22125fefd6a" CreationDate="2016-08-25T12:36:31.543" UserId="3902" Comment="edited body" Text="Two years ago now, I bought the Lenovo Y510p for 700€. You can find it at a lower price for now (in addition, I bought the version with a second GPU, which was a bit more expensive, instead of the optical drive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm recommending this laptop because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Its in your price range&#xD;&#xA; - It has a I7 4702MQ&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of ram which might be useful for Adobe products&#xD;&#xA; - Has a FHD screen which had (at the time) good review about its contrast, colorimetry etc. wich is, I think, a good point for your usage.&#xD;&#xA; - In addition to the Intel's IGB, you have a GT755m wich is useful for media works (at least for video editing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know Lenovo released its successor but it has a terrible screen (according to the tests I read 2 years ago)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5606" RevisionGUID="8434fd78-f5bc-4215-ad60-04d6ba7da73f" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:00:05.623" UserId="4269" Text="I have been doing some hands on in AI and Computer Vision lately (using OpenNLP, OpenCv etc). All these experiments were done on my PC (Intel dual core 8GB DDR2). But, now I want to use some processing unit only for AI purposes (no need of monitor, keyboard, mouse etc.). I am planning to use this processor wirelessly connected with network of webcams and microphones throughout my house (let's see a network of 4-5 cameras and microphone) in a star topology with CPU /IC as central server and cameras as nodes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not good with hardware requirements and comaptibilty of various parts. So, can someone recommend any minimalist required CPU configuration or any IC, which can get this job done. And, what other components will be needed along with CPU/IC (for e.g motherboard)? Or atleast point me in the direction where I can find my answers? Any help is appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5606" RevisionGUID="8434fd78-f5bc-4215-ad60-04d6ba7da73f" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:00:05.623" UserId="4269" Text="CPU (or IC) recommendation for independent use (without PC components) for Speech recognition and computer vision over Wifi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5606" RevisionGUID="8434fd78-f5bc-4215-ad60-04d6ba7da73f" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:00:05.623" UserId="4269" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;&lt;brain-computer-interface&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5444" RevisionGUID="cf0d2cb9-576c-4220-8b2c-e1ce73de5391" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:24:21.310" UserId="1371" Comment="added 517 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16&quot; laptops) that would fit in my backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations for a wireless back-lit keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable &amp; eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality which allows it to be used with a usb cable (&amp; charge too?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preference is for one without a keypad but I also consider ones with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asking for too much?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: I decided o go with cjm's recommendation of the [Drevo 71 mechanical keyboard (black with blue switch)][1]. Though its bluetooth performance was a concern as reported by some reviewers but it was the only option that fits all criteria.&#xD;&#xA;I also ordered the &quot;[TeckNet BM306 Souris Bluetooth mouse][2]&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will report on the recommendation once I receive it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01H6DWV8M&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/TeckNet-Bluetooth-Wireless-Mouse-BM306/dp/B000Q7V0W4/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="c33c9908-a811-4d0b-8768-efce2aa81dc9" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:38:19.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5608" RevisionGUID="ebd7a6a3-065d-4d53-a6ae-b9c14efcc509" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:13:29.743" UserId="3836" Text="OK, I recommend the **[ASRock J3710-ITX Mini ITX Pentium J3710 Motherboard][1]**. This motherboard features an integrated quad core CPU that might provide the performance you're looking for - it's very difficult to say because you haven't given us a whole lot of information about the programs/dev environments you're using, but anyway it's significantly faster than your current CPU. Outfit this with at least 8gb RAM and a good SSD if you'll be caching any of that A/V data to disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ASRock-Rack-J3160-ITX-Intel-Celeron-J3160-DDR3-SATA3-USB3-0-A-V-GbE-/381706767471?_trksid=p2352135.m2548.l4275" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5606" RevisionGUID="635db275-6b99-4b3e-82e1-f1851fbb4bc5" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:17:31.697" UserId="15" Comment="Corrected typos." Text="I have been doing some hands on in AI and Computer Vision lately (using OpenNLP, OpenCV, etc). All these experiments were done on my PC (Intel dual core 8GB DDR2). But, now I want to use some processing unit only for AI purposes (no need of monitor, keyboard, mouse etc.). I am planning to use this processor wirelessly connected with network of webcams and microphones throughout my house (let's see a network of 4-5 cameras and microphone) in a star topology with CPU/IC as central server and cameras as nodes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not good with hardware requirements and compatibility of various parts. So, can someone recommend any minimalist required CPU configuration or any IC, which can get this job done. And, what other components will be needed along with CPU/IC (for e.g motherboard)? Or at least point me in the direction where I can find my answers? Any help is appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15587" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5606" RevisionGUID="635db275-6b99-4b3e-82e1-f1851fbb4bc5" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:17:31.697" Comment="Proposed by 15 approved by 3836, 8 edit id of 510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5510" RevisionGUID="4e73ece6-349d-4536-8f54-914473a1193c" CreationDate="2016-08-26T01:40:52.673" UserId="531" Comment="edited body" Text="You can't *yet*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's high frequency monitors but they seem to top out at 1440p in most cases. Some of them may have gsync.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*All* existing 4k monitors top out at 60hz as far as I know since the 'common' flavours of HDMI (2.0 for TV oriented gear and high end video cards) and DP 1.2) don't have the bandwidth for 4k/UHD and 120hz at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'd need to pick one or the other. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5609" RevisionGUID="4f721502-13fa-451f-8218-b138a44ac8f5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T03:02:36.713" UserId="4272" Text="Whenever I see retro-style portable DIY consoles, they either use a Nokia-style 1-bit black-and-white monochrome screen like in the [Gamebuino][1], or they're built with an RGB color screen like with the [PiGRRL Zero][2]. I'd really like to know if anyone is still making monochrome screens in more than just 1-bit black-and-white. I mean, is that even a thing? Or are the gray tones of grayscale-capable monochrome screens controlled elsewhere in hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gamebuino.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://learn.adafruit.com/pigrrl-zero/overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15590" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5609" RevisionGUID="4f721502-13fa-451f-8218-b138a44ac8f5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T03:02:36.713" UserId="4272" Text="Is anyone still making Game Boy-style 2-bit monochrome screens?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15591" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5609" RevisionGUID="4f721502-13fa-451f-8218-b138a44ac8f5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T03:02:36.713" UserId="4272" Text="&lt;game-development&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15594" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5502" RevisionGUID="f8f3b741-5bd1-4f2c-ba8a-0ad252993dca" CreationDate="2016-08-26T07:33:19.023" UserId="155" Comment="included requirements in body for clarification" Text="I want to upgrade my current monitor, and I'm looking for something future-proof, seeing that a monitor is something that should last a while (10ish years). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs mentioned below are what I came up with, and are pretty much non-negotiable. However, I can not seem to find any monitor that meets all of these requirements. There is always something missing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4k resolution&#xD;&#xA;- 120Hz+ refresh rate&#xD;&#xA;- TN panel&#xD;&#xA;- G-Sync enabled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering Google search can be tricky when looking for specific things, I might just have overlooked one. Does anyone know of a monitor that meets those specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="6231eb90-25ec-470f-bcfe-1e43a76b2eaf" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:09:19.583" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/54046/1080p-dual-in-car-camera" />
  <row Id="15598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="5a2d8d42-0336-4cee-b5fe-bb04d411941d" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:09:24.320" UserDisplayName="Darren" Text="I have a question for a project I'm thinking about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In car cameras, now I know its been done before but the ones I found on google are fairly old now, most are not 1080p or if they are its only a single camera setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm looking to do is have a front mounted camera recording 1080p at a min of 30fps with a encoded bitrate of about 15Mbps to 20Mbps, on top of that I'm looking to have a second camera connected via USB or something similar recording 1080p at 30fps but at around 10Mbps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the overall loading on the storage hardware will be between 25 to 30Mbps (inc audio)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is, do we have any cameras that will do this, and secondly is the device powerful enough to encode 2 AV streams in to an mp4 or similar format at the same time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="5a2d8d42-0336-4cee-b5fe-bb04d411941d" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:09:24.320" UserDisplayName="Darren" Text="1080P dual in car camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="5a2d8d42-0336-4cee-b5fe-bb04d411941d" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:09:24.320" UserDisplayName="Darren" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5612" RevisionGUID="59e68f77-ecad-47d4-a3c3-8fbda60e9a6b" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:14:35.953" UserId="4276" Text="I am taking a speacialist course about game developing with Unity 3D and thinking about replacing my (good???) old GTX 650 by any of the new GTX 1000 series or RX 400 series graphics card. The goal is to make some lightweight games, mostly for smatphones and low-poly games, for fun. I'm not an 3D artist, so won't make high-end games with thousands polygons per prop... by now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The primary usage of my PC is software development, mostly server-side and mobile development, so the GPU should fit into that too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software I am mainly using is Unity 3D, GIMP, Blender, Inkscape, Android Studio, Visual Studio, Xamarin Studio, NetBeans, VirtualBox and Xcode (under virtualized macOS). Core specs of my rig is Intel Core i7 4790, Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H, 16 GB DDR3, Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am going for Unity 3D, should I stay with Nvidia GPUs due to PhysX?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would a mid-range graphics card under 300$ work for me? What would be my best purchase?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15602" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5612" RevisionGUID="59e68f77-ecad-47d4-a3c3-8fbda60e9a6b" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:14:35.953" UserId="4276" Text="2016 mid-range graphic card for game development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5612" RevisionGUID="59e68f77-ecad-47d4-a3c3-8fbda60e9a6b" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:14:35.953" UserId="4276" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="82cfdeef-6bdf-4407-83cb-b3db6a31793f" CreationDate="2016-08-26T16:16:02.703" UserId="57" Comment="Adds pi tag, small changes to spelling/capitalization" Text="In car cameras, now I know its been done before but the ones I found on Google are fairly old now, most are not 1080p or if they are its only a single camera setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm looking to do is have a front mounted camera recording 1080p at a min of 30fps with an encoded bitrate of about 15Mbps to 20Mbps, on top of that I'm looking to have a second camera connected via USB or something similar recording 1080p at 30fps but at around 10Mbps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the overall loading on the storage hardware will be between 25 to 30Mbps (inc audio)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is, do we have any cameras that will do this, and secondly is the device powerful enough to encode 2 AV streams in to an MP4 or similar format at the same time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5611" RevisionGUID="82cfdeef-6bdf-4407-83cb-b3db6a31793f" CreationDate="2016-08-26T16:16:02.703" UserId="57" Comment="Adds pi tag, small changes to spelling/capitalization" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15612" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="b42e9948-da01-4e8e-bc71-84e00efb548b" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:51:53.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15617" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="fdfdbb62-8d77-4d9f-9a5e-95c504ff4485" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:51:58.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15620" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="51a07401-51e0-4753-bed1-25f959a1b819" CreationDate="2016-08-27T04:01:59.527" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="74a68761-ab16-4175-8bd4-8b52397e3a9e" CreationDate="2016-08-27T06:10:58.763" UserId="3836" Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="0c05ce36-0619-4dab-abdc-0e2c6ac4d28d" CreationDate="2016-08-27T06:17:18.417" UserId="3836" Comment="tried to fix strange problem with italics..." Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="aefc7708-32d4-46ca-b2cc-fa2b5062b834" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:20:21.590" UserId="1669" Text="I been using usb dongle nano on debian machine. It is spotty. I want a rosewill card pci express &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VKON0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; wondering if it will work with router that is rated at 300n which is TL-WR841N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="aefc7708-32d4-46ca-b2cc-fa2b5062b834" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:20:21.590" UserId="1669" Text="N900 wifi card work with N300 router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="aefc7708-32d4-46ca-b2cc-fa2b5062b834" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:20:21.590" UserId="1669" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15626" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="b5924953-6cd3-4874-af9b-7aef2d9dbfd8" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:27:26.537" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5618" RevisionGUID="d49a195b-d9a0-4f2c-81b4-0f55ace3dcee" CreationDate="2016-08-27T17:12:50.110" UserId="3980" Text="Go with the GTX 1000 series... I have a GTX 1060 paired with a r7 370 in my rig. I use the GTX 1060 for working (mostly for cuda in blender and adobe premiere) and I use the r7 370 for running my screens. The GTX 1060 goes for about $270 [on Amazon][1]. Alternatvely, you could get the founder's edition for about $300 from [nVidia's website][2]. I personally have the founder's edition. I'm very happy with the GTX 1060 and it has worked excellently so far. It does support physX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD/dp/B01JNUO6BG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472317859&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx%201060&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/10series/geforce-gtx-1060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5619" RevisionGUID="17718f65-e117-4ece-821e-3f172cd76fa0" CreationDate="2016-08-27T17:41:06.040" UserId="3836" Text="My advice will be the opposite of 0-60FPS's advice. *Do not get an Nvidia card*. If anything, develop using a high-end Intel chip like the HD 4600 or better - this will be closest to some of your market. It's also currently in your system in the form of your CPU's onboard graphics and can be enabled via BIOS if it isn't already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you have asked for a GPU, so I'll recommend the **[AMD RX 460][1]**. AMD currently has an architecture more advanced for the new DX12 and Vulkan stuff - it takes better advantage of these new technologies than Nvidia's 1xxx lineup. It's also cheaper. Keep your GTX 650 if you ever want to use PhysX - you can dedicate the card to PhysX in the Nvidia control panel, leaving the rest of the game rendering job to your AMD card. The R7 460 will represent a [decent step up from the GTX 650][2] as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both cards can be used at once in Blender and GIMP as well, so that's nice (though since OpenCL alone is supported on GIMP and AMD traditionally outperforms Nvidia in OpenCL applications, the Nvidia card might not offer much help in GIMP). Also, with an AMD card in your system alongside your Intel and Nvidia cards, you'll have the trifecta - a good example of each major graphics player's architectures. Comparing in-game performance will be as simple as switching which one you use as your display output when you start your computer up. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This solution is also a heckuva lot cheaper than getting a GTX 1060. It will be interesting to see if my recommendation changes with the release of any 1050s or whatever, but I don't think so, since you'd lose out on that trifecta of compatibility testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131695&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Video%20Cards%20-%20AMD%2FATI-_-N82E16814131695&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw9IS-BRC4qZXagbLs6uMBEiQAYHBh-8_w8rfcdpLqjVzFd3O-8jGW64zodmoQVoc_urqVGsUaAmS18P8HAQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-460-vs-Nvidia-GTX-650/3641vs3154" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5620" RevisionGUID="e698ba12-46ff-4525-abbe-b01650fc06b6" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:26:54.367" UserId="4283" Text="**Pc:** *Acer G600 desktop* (standard configuration / no replaced components)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Acer j87m&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.60GHz&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: ALL-IN-WONDER 9000&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 512 MB --&gt; Will be upgraded to 2GB (max RAM supported by Acer j87m) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Objective:** upgrade the pc with the fastest cpu compatible with the motherboard. This machine will be equipped with a windows os or linux os and will be used to run office applications (for writing documents/browsing/reading emails/etc).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Problem:** I can't find a list  of all the CPUs compatible with Acer j87m motherboard. I would like to know which CPUs I could use to upgrade my machine. ***Which is the fastest CPU compatible with this motherboard model?*** Where can I find such information? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(I already tried searching Acer support website and many websites about hardware compatibility but they don't list Acer j87m, probably because it isn't a recent model)*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15630" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5620" RevisionGUID="e698ba12-46ff-4525-abbe-b01650fc06b6" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:26:54.367" UserId="4283" Text="Fast(est) compatible CPU for Acer j87m motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15631" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5620" RevisionGUID="e698ba12-46ff-4525-abbe-b01650fc06b6" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:26:54.367" UserId="4283" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15633" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="7ef13b39-9975-491c-9f01-86c502b596e1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T20:17:49.527" UserId="155" Comment="grammar; inline link" Text="I have been using a USB dongle nano on a Debian machine. It is spotty. I want a Rosewill PCIe card instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering if the [Rosewill N900][1] will work with a router that is rated at 300n which is TL-WR841N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://amzn.com/B009VKON0S" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15634" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="7ef13b39-9975-491c-9f01-86c502b596e1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T20:17:49.527" UserId="155" Comment="grammar; inline link" Text="N900 Wi-Fi card that works with an N300 router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5621" RevisionGUID="b62f3c0b-9f72-48b3-8524-144759fa37f4" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:11:48.143" UserId="4284" Text="I'm looking for a fan controller that can do the following/has the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Does *not* need a 5.25&quot; or 3.5&quot; slot (preferably thin enough to be hidden in the 15mm space in the back of the case).&#xD;&#xA;* Can control three 3-pin and three 4-pin fans in at least three seperate groups (splitters allowed)&#xD;&#xA;* Can control each group based on at least one 10Ω temperature probe&#xD;&#xA;* Can be programmed via software on the fly (e.g. fan curves)&#xD;&#xA;* Can stop fans completely (0 RPM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have thus far been using the Corsair Commander Mini, but I've also been continuously dissatisfied with it. It does not meet my last requirement of being able to stop fans, and the state of its firmware and software (Corsair LINK) is horrible (several years long standing bugs still not addressed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, does the kind of unit I'm looking for exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5621" RevisionGUID="b62f3c0b-9f72-48b3-8524-144759fa37f4" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:11:48.143" UserId="4284" Text="Internal fan controller with specific requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5621" RevisionGUID="b62f3c0b-9f72-48b3-8524-144759fa37f4" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:11:48.143" UserId="4284" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5622" RevisionGUID="790801e1-d5a3-48e1-a8eb-6a19a93e9cb7" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:15:36.757" UserId="3836" Text="Your motherboard was sold [with several different chipsets on it][1]; the best possible answer will depend on what chipset you have available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without knowing more than you have already said, the best *certain* upgrade would be the **[Pentium 4 RK80532PC064512][2]**. That's already probably the CPU you have, BUT you can do a *bsel mod* on it *if your chipset supports an FSB frequency of 533mhz*. In that case the bsel mod bringing it from 400mhz to 533mhz, if stable, would would make your CPU run at 3,4645mhz, or roughly 3.5ghz. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fastest non-modded CPU available for any chipset you have would be the **[Pentium 4 RK80532PE083512][3]**, which runs at 3.067ghz and has HT technology, enabling to be roughly twice as fast as any other CPU of the same architecture and clock speed *when running multithreaded programs which do not max out any single thread*. Your PC must support a FSB frequency of 533mhz to run this processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interestingly, there are a few processors listed for your board which have 800mhz FSB support. These are not of great interest to you in and of themselves, as they all sport lower clockspeeds than the CPUs discussed above, but they do indicate that if you had a board that supported an FSB of 800mhz, there's probably a Bsel mod you could try which would push your current CPU to the insane heights of ~5.2ghz - I almost guarantee it would not be stable, however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, your PC is woefully outdated and is currently outperformed by almost all smartphones. New computers which are incredibly more powerful than that machine can be had for less than $50. It is probably time to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/http://www.fastcom.neostrada.pl/MS-6533.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Pentium_4/RK80532PC064512.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Pentium_4/RK80532PE083512.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5619" RevisionGUID="bebbfb37-c6a4-48a5-ae1f-569fe46d879b" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:21:49.387" UserId="3836" Comment="Removed redundant rhetorical points." Text="My advice will be the opposite of 0-60FPS's advice. *Do not get an Nvidia card*. If anything, develop using a high-end Intel chip like the HD 4600 or better - this will be closest to some of your market. It's also currently in your system in the form of your CPU's onboard graphics and can be enabled via BIOS if it isn't already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you have asked for a GPU, so I'll recommend the **[AMD RX 460][1]**. AMD currently has an architecture more advanced for the new DX12 and Vulkan stuff - it takes better advantage of these new technologies than Nvidia's 1xxx lineup. It's also cheaper. Keep your GTX 650 if you ever want to use PhysX - you can dedicate the card to PhysX in the Nvidia control panel, leaving the rest of the game rendering job to your AMD card. The R7 460 will represent a [decent step up from the GTX 650][2] as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both cards can be used at once in Blender and GIMP as well, so that's nice (though since OpenCL alone is supported on GIMP and AMD traditionally outperforms Nvidia in OpenCL applications, the Nvidia card might not offer much help in GIMP). Also, with an AMD card in your system alongside your Intel and Nvidia cards, you'll have the trifecta - a good example of each major graphics player's architectures. Comparing in-game performance will be as simple as switching which one you use as your display output when you start your computer up. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be interesting to see if my recommendation changes with the release of any 1050s or whatever, but I don't think so, since you'd lose out on that trifecta of compatibility testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131695&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Video%20Cards%20-%20AMD%2FATI-_-N82E16814131695&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw9IS-BRC4qZXagbLs6uMBEiQAYHBh-8_w8rfcdpLqjVzFd3O-8jGW64zodmoQVoc_urqVGsUaAmS18P8HAQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-460-vs-Nvidia-GTX-650/3641vs3154" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15641" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5617" RevisionGUID="359b1c13-7e6e-46b0-8e3d-8ac2d1d099c0" CreationDate="2016-08-27T23:05:32.397" UserId="1669" Comment="comment ask for the best" Text="Been using a USB dongle nano on a Debian machine. It is spotty.Want a  PCIe card instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what is the best  pCI express card for  TL-WR841N router. would prefer a high end card in case of getting a higher rated router in the future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://amzn.com/B009VKON0S" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5623" RevisionGUID="f7ee3c81-62be-4e32-b16d-8513c8e834e9" CreationDate="2016-08-28T00:13:36.130" UserId="2512" Text="I have a Lenovo Z50 laptop and I play games like NFS and DOOM. I also run some simulations using Octave.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Core i7-4500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD: 1TB 5400rpm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for upgrading my laptop with reasonable price. the first option that comes to my mind is to increase ram to 16GB or install an SSD or replace HDD with a faster one. the later is not a good idea because of heat and power consumption.&#xD;&#xA; Any suggestion?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15643" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5623" RevisionGUID="f7ee3c81-62be-4e32-b16d-8513c8e834e9" CreationDate="2016-08-28T00:13:36.130" UserId="2512" Text="Lenovo Z50-70: possible upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15644" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5623" RevisionGUID="f7ee3c81-62be-4e32-b16d-8513c8e834e9" CreationDate="2016-08-28T00:13:36.130" UserId="2512" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5624" RevisionGUID="ce9db464-95a0-4212-8bdc-496e466e05b8" CreationDate="2016-08-28T02:52:38.860" UserId="4285" Text="I changed my CPU and I have all my files in old HDD (500 gb). I taught of using it as a slave drive to my new 1TB HDD. But what if it get formatted. &#xA;&#xA;How can I recover it without losing the data and the problem is I have OS installed in it and I have not formatted C drive. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15646" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5624" RevisionGUID="ce9db464-95a0-4212-8bdc-496e466e05b8" CreationDate="2016-08-28T02:52:38.860" UserId="4285" Text="Backup my internal hard drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15647" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5624" RevisionGUID="ce9db464-95a0-4212-8bdc-496e466e05b8" CreationDate="2016-08-28T02:52:38.860" UserId="4285" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5625" RevisionGUID="b3eb4b52-02e9-449c-b35d-0dc852f37f83" CreationDate="2016-08-28T04:58:42.853" UserId="3836" Text="Although my personal preference is to remove the DVD drive, replace it with a caddy, and drop an SSD into that caddy (possibly with caching involved), a simpler, somewhat slower option that allows you to retain your DVD drive is to replace your HDD with an SHDD. I recommend the **[Seagate - 1TB Internal Serial ATA III/Serial ATA II Solid State Hybrid Drive for Laptops][1]**. This drive has 1Tb of slow storage, backed up with 8Gb of MLC flash, which it uses to automagically cache the rest of the drive according to how you use it. Think of the performance as being somewhere between your standard HDD and SSDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-1tb-internal-serial-ata-iii-serial-ata-ii-solid-state-hybrid-drive-for-laptops-multi/8808633.p?id=1218897640424&amp;ref=199&amp;loc=8BacdVP0GFs&amp;acampID=1&amp;siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-fHEa_iB9MXI.aQygONjP5w" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5525" RevisionGUID="9afdbc54-d6e8-4d19-9d3c-9cc5aad9d140" CreationDate="2016-08-28T05:24:13.930" UserId="531" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="I had a few other suggestions - kingston was highly recommended, but wasn't available at the mall I was checking out, and there were a few odd brands I've never seen elsewhere at my local store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with a razer man o war. I admit, one of the reasons I got it is aesthetic - it fits my all black rig well ;p. It also seemed to have the right sized headband&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets start with the features I *didn't* mention in my original question (some of which are useless). I'm a bit of a razer fan so the fact that the headset works with synapse is probably a feature. It supports (software emulated) 7.1 audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has what I'm told are the standard on-headset volume controls with push to silence, and it integrates well with an on screen OS for both.  The headset is retractable, and I'm told sound quality is acceptable. (Considering I used an SM 57 before, I wasn't expecting an *improvement*). Charging is over USB, and the man o war comes with a little 'dock' for your transmitter, and a usb charging cable, both of which are the standard 'soft' braided cable razer uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to lesser audiophile/professional grade headsets. The man o war feels light, tho the plastic seems sold. Most of the features are pretty standard I'm told. Sound quality is acceptable - it passes my usual quick tests. I'd have liked a *little* more padding on the headband, but that's personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can mute the mic by pressing down on the volume button (which is handy) and that lights up a red light on the mic tip to let you know that its muted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In use, it feels barely there. I use it at 'default' no extension and there's no cramp. It sits over my head comfortably the ear pieces fit well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to be an odd semi open back design - I can hear what's happening around me, but I don't notice much leakage when I'm not wearing it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well for the distances I need and pairs very quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff I don't like? Chroma seems pointless, unless I get a mirror over my screen like I keep threatening to, I can't really see it. Considering these are wireless, I just turn em off. Kinda wierd rotation on the ear pieces, they turn 90 degrees one way, not the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note these are quite literally on the edge of my budget at RRP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1wdNb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="1f94b64b-9e7b-4969-8f89-32fdd35369f5" CreationDate="2016-08-28T07:27:05.677" UserId="4287" Text="as the number of apps running on arm-based processors increases and arm processors are much less expensive and power consuming, i wanna to use them in a PC with pc-type RAM and hard-drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question is: is there a motherboard the allows to use arm processors with pc-based ram and hard-drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="1f94b64b-9e7b-4969-8f89-32fdd35369f5" CreationDate="2016-08-28T07:27:05.677" UserId="4287" Text="is there a motherboard that supports arm processors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="1f94b64b-9e7b-4969-8f89-32fdd35369f5" CreationDate="2016-08-28T07:27:05.677" UserId="4287" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="8ea00d1a-3a39-4359-8afb-122aaa2b05a8" CreationDate="2016-08-28T07:45:16.740" UserId="4287" Comment="deleted 60 characters in body" Text="becouse arm processors are much less expensive and power consuming, i wanna to use them in a PC with pc-type RAM and hard-drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question is: is there a motherboard the allows to use arm processors with pc-based ram and hard-drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15658" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5525" RevisionGUID="b48051ea-3f52-4ebb-bfc8-ea8ef75fa37e" CreationDate="2016-08-28T10:23:50.883" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/let%27s#Contraction&gt;, &lt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Razer_Inc.&gt;, and &lt;http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-audio/razer-manowar&gt;). (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.)" Text="I had a few other suggestions - Kingston was highly recommended, but it wasn't available at the mall I was checking out, and there were a few odd brands I've never seen elsewhere at my local store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with a [Razer][3] [ManO'War][1]. I admit, one of the reasons I got it is aesthetic - it fits my all black rig well ;p. It also seemed to have the right-sized headband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's start with the features I *didn't* mention in my original question (some of which are useless). I'm a bit of a Razer fan so the fact that the headset works with synapse is probably a feature. It supports (software emulated) 7.1 audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has what I'm told are the standard on-headset volume controls with push to silence, and it integrates well with an on screen OS for both.  The headset is retractable, and I'm told sound quality is acceptable. (Considering I used an SM 57 before, I wasn't expecting an *improvement*). Charging is over USB, and the ManO'War comes with a little 'dock' for your transmitter, and a USB charging cable, both of which are the standard 'soft' braided cable Razer uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to lesser audiophile/professional grade headsets. The ManO'War feels light, though the plastic seems sold. Most of the features are pretty standard I'm told. Sound quality is acceptable - it passes my usual quick tests. I'd have liked a *little* more padding on the headband, but that's a personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can mute the microphone by pressing down on the volume button (which is handy), and that lights up a red light on the microphone tip to let you know that it's muted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In use, it feels barely there. I use it at 'default' no extension and there's no cramp. It sits over my head comfortably, and the ear pieces fit well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to be an odd semi-open back design - I can hear what's happening around me, but I don't notice much leakage when I'm not wearing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well for the distances I need and pairs very quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff I don't like? Chroma seems pointless, unless I get a mirror over my screen like I keep threatening to, I can't really see it. Considering these are wireless, I just turn them off. There is a kind of weird rotation on the ear pieces; they turn 90 degrees one way, not the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note these are quite literally on the edge of my budget at RRP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-audio/razer-manowar&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1wdNb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Razer_Inc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15659" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5525" RevisionGUID="b48051ea-3f52-4ebb-bfc8-ea8ef75fa37e" CreationDate="2016-08-28T10:23:50.883" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 531 edit id of 516" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15661" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5628" RevisionGUID="701e77bc-e735-4be9-92af-bd344d6440df" CreationDate="2016-08-28T10:57:03.273" UserId="3986" Text="I'm looking for a UPS that produces a pure sine wave at the output because my PSU has `active Power Factor Compensation` and from what I read, it doesn't work with pseudo-sine wave output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my system will draw a maximum of 430W with full load. I want just enough time to hibernate the system before it runs out of power. The UPS i'm looking for needs to be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - atleast 700 VA;&#xD;&#xA; - pure sine output;&#xD;&#xA; - under 150 €;&#xD;&#xA; - quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15662" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5628" RevisionGUID="701e77bc-e735-4be9-92af-bd344d6440df" CreationDate="2016-08-28T10:57:03.273" UserId="3986" Text="UPS with pure sine wave" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15663" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5628" RevisionGUID="701e77bc-e735-4be9-92af-bd344d6440df" CreationDate="2016-08-28T10:57:03.273" UserId="3986" Text="&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5629" RevisionGUID="b1efaffa-2a68-4628-8762-4eb6290ed211" CreationDate="2016-08-28T12:59:05.517" UserId="4288" Text="I don't know which SSD suits best my laptop, and if I can take that SSD and plug it by SATA either in the laptop or the desktop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15667" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5629" RevisionGUID="b1efaffa-2a68-4628-8762-4eb6290ed211" CreationDate="2016-08-28T12:59:05.517" UserId="4288" Text="I want to choose an SSD for a laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15668" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5629" RevisionGUID="b1efaffa-2a68-4628-8762-4eb6290ed211" CreationDate="2016-08-28T12:59:05.517" UserId="4288" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5629" RevisionGUID="69242eb6-9d65-433d-aa84-5adda737175d" CreationDate="2016-08-28T13:07:39.387" UserId="4288" Comment="deleted 29 characters in body" Text="I know which SSD suits best my laptop, but I don't know what interface suports, how can I find out?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5630" RevisionGUID="516ba06e-1f77-4c27-8502-aa722098e939" CreationDate="2016-08-28T13:41:18.970" UserId="4289" Text="I am a normal laptop user (Linux), most of my work is text editing, internet surfing, movie watching.&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a new laptop with a cost of 500 Euros. according to my work i do not think i need a supper processor or GPU&#xD;&#xA;**But what i really need is a quiet laptop** (Fan noise drive me crazy) and i am not sure how to check this before buying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;do you recommend any thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;this one maybe?&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ixsoft.de/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?ref=Products/de/ACEX2511HW-i5200.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15671" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5630" RevisionGUID="516ba06e-1f77-4c27-8502-aa722098e939" CreationDate="2016-08-28T13:41:18.970" UserId="4289" Text="Which laptop should i buy (500 Euro)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15672" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5630" RevisionGUID="516ba06e-1f77-4c27-8502-aa722098e939" CreationDate="2016-08-28T13:41:18.970" UserId="4289" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;silent&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5631" RevisionGUID="be16173c-4ed7-40dc-8946-aea198a9610a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:45:43.317" UserId="4290" Text="I'm about to buy a laptop, and have  narrowed it down to either a model with hd or uhd (3840x2160) screen.  I like the image quality of the uhd, but I'm seeing a lot of complaints about scaling problems on review sites.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it too early to go uhd, and should I wait until mainstream business applications catch up?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5631" RevisionGUID="be16173c-4ed7-40dc-8946-aea198a9610a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:45:43.317" UserId="4290" Text="Scaling problems with 4K / UHD / Retina / 3840x2160 screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5631" RevisionGUID="be16173c-4ed7-40dc-8946-aea198a9610a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:45:43.317" UserId="4290" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5633" RevisionGUID="4329c6e5-5347-4948-b4f0-bab498f7cf6c" CreationDate="2016-08-28T15:06:14.753" UserId="4057" Text="If you are interested in modern stuff, you won't gave a problem. Scaling issues onky occur with dated software. So, as long as you arent trying to run Battlefield 1942 you should be able to enjoy your UHD display. Media content has also been getting better suited for 4k, so it is not to early to make the upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15678" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2801" RevisionGUID="1c1f9f7a-2c6a-4941-ac81-ecce4d90cd92" CreationDate="2016-08-28T19:05:34.613" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5634" RevisionGUID="df787623-36d0-4e0c-85fb-ec1a59acb228" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:59:32.750" UserId="2159" Text="Some time ago, I had successfully used both 3G and 4G USB data cards on Verizon's network for mobile data access, as well as being able to natively send and receive SMS messages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Verizon's only current USB offering - their MiFi 4G LTE data card (Novatel USB620L) - apparently does not support sending SMS messages from the card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had received a reply back from Verizon's Business &amp; Government Customer Operations Support (Issue Tracking No. 98051-080116) as such:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I got final word back from our device team that we do not support SMS through AT commands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... which reflects what I also received back from Novatel technical support (reference INC0234732) as such:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We have got the responce from our engineering team that Mobile Originated SMS is NOT supported on USB620L.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The frustrating aspect of this is that I thought this was considered &quot;core&quot; 4G functionality.  Verizon had also published a &quot;Linux Integration Guide&quot; for this card at http://www.verizonwireless.com/dam/support/pdf/user_guide/u620-linux-integration-guide-7-17-15.pdf - which was one of the primary reasons we chose this card and solution through VZW, as this connectivity was intended for a Linux device.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also still &quot;works&quot; in that I can send a SMS message such that it is received by another phone - but in doing so, the serial console hangs for another ~3 minutes before finally returning:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +CMS ERROR: 500 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can repeat the same with the gammu command-line tool provided specifically for working with SMS (vs. hacking the manual &quot;AT&quot; commands).  Further details were posted to https://community.verizonwireless.com/message/1451434 at the beginning of the month - which is still unanswered as of this posting.  (Given that the focus of this site is for a hardware recommendation and not troubleshooting, I won't repeat the additional problem report details here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Verizon has tried to steer me to using their their Enterprise Messaging or other online solutions.  These are largely restricted to or at least prefer messaging to only other VZW subscribers.  They also require data access and additional integration work, where SMS would hopefully be a bit more standard and robust.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a currently supported 4G USB data card that works on Verizon's network for mobile data access, as well as supporting native sending and receipt of SMS messages?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support under Linux would be most preferable - but even with a &quot;Windows-only&quot; solution, I'm guessing I could also get it working under Linux (provided firmware-level support)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5634" RevisionGUID="df787623-36d0-4e0c-85fb-ec1a59acb228" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:59:32.750" UserId="2159" Text="Verizon-compatible USB data card with send/receive SMS support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5634" RevisionGUID="df787623-36d0-4e0c-85fb-ec1a59acb228" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:59:32.750" UserId="2159" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5635" RevisionGUID="eae14d01-4bd7-42cd-94ff-d08748a8fef3" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:24:12.667" UserId="4292" Text="I am trying to build a workstation machine for molecular dynamics simulations. I will be using Tesla K20X for performing simulations (requires extensive communication between processors) and Intel-Xeon-E5-2683-V3-QS-2.0Ghz for distributed computing jobs that don't require extensive communication between cpu cores such as molecular docking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the SPECS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: NVIDIA-Tesla-K20X-6GB-Kepler-GPU-Graphics-Accelerator (I'll add another when I have more money) 900$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 2* Intel-Xeon-E5-2683-V3-QS-2.0Ghz (Total of 28 physical cores) 220$ each&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard : ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS LGA2011-v3/ Intel C612 PCH/ DDR4/ Quad CrossFireX and 3-Way SLI/ SATA3&amp;USB3.0/ M.2/ A&amp;V&amp;2GbE/ EEB Server Motherboard. 565$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OR should I go with? ASRock Rack Motherboard EP2C612 WS. 400$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4-2133 MT/s (PC4-2133) CL15 DR x4 ECC RDIMM Server Memory. 170$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DISK: SanDisk SSD Plus 240GB 2.5-Inch SDSSDA-240G-G25 (70$) I'll have HDDs for storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2, 80+ PLATINUM 1000W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fans: Noctua i4 CPU Cooler for Intel Xeon CPU_ LGA2011, 1356 and 1366 Platforms NH-U12DXi4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower Chassis PH-ES614PC_BK (96$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are the parts all compatible with each other? Will the motherboard or any other component bottle the performance? I am not quite sure about the case and fans because I've never built a server before. P.S my budget is up to 2600$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15683" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5635" RevisionGUID="eae14d01-4bd7-42cd-94ff-d08748a8fef3" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:24:12.667" UserId="4292" Text="Are these components compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15684" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5635" RevisionGUID="eae14d01-4bd7-42cd-94ff-d08748a8fef3" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:24:12.667" UserId="4292" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15685" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="154f6044-090c-4d92-aa7b-2b83e1a7948a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:43:36.273" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/15953&gt; and &lt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore&gt;). (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.)" Text="I'm on the hunt for a new pair of gaming headphones with a built-in microphone. I have a few hard requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the 'internal' size of the cups to be at least 70&amp;nbsp;mm (my current pair is that size and fits perfectly) and fit a larger headsize (I am not sure how to measure that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like USB or a wireless dongle. Bluetooth would be OK, but I'd need to add Bluetooth to my system. A 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm phone connector is kind of messy for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality should be decent - I'm not expecting audiophile quality sound, but I'd not want my ears to bleed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be padded in all the right places - my past few headphones have had completely padded headbands, with fabric rather than [pleather][1] in contact with my head, and it's comfortable. Likewise, pleather, not raw sponge ear cups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer closed cups over open cups. My parents have gotten into the habit of turning the lights off and on if they need my attention anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is about 300 [SGD][2] - say 150 to 200 USD. Local availability in Singapore would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_leather#Clothing_and_fabric_uses&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore_dollar&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15686" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="154f6044-090c-4d92-aa7b-2b83e1a7948a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:43:36.273" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/15953&gt; and &lt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore&gt;). (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.)" Text="Comfortable over-the-ear gaming headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15687" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="154f6044-090c-4d92-aa7b-2b83e1a7948a" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:43:36.273" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by -1 edit id of 515" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15688" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5501" RevisionGUID="02c62549-4a86-4891-b596-37f502d01418" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:43:36.273" UserId="155" Comment="general clarity; budget clarity" Text="I'm on the hunt for a new pair of gaming headphones with a built-in microphone. I have a few hard requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the 'internal' size of the cups to be at least 70mm (my current pair is that size and fits perfectly) and fit a larger head size (I am not sure how to measure that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like USB or a wireless dongle. Bluetooth would be OK, but I'd need to add Bluetooth to my system. A 3.5mm phone connector is kind of messy for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality should be decent - I'm not expecting audiophile quality sound, but I'd not want my ears to bleed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be padded in all the right places - my past few headphones have had completely padded headbands, with fabric rather than [pleather][1] in contact with my head, and it's comfortable. Likewise, pleather, not raw sponge ear cups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer closed cups over open cups. My parents have gotten into the habit of turning the lights off and on if they need my attention anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is about 300 [SGD][2] (~220 USD). Local availability in Singapore would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_leather#Clothing_and_fabric_uses&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore_dollar&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1669" RevisionGUID="c49fae27-ad7a-41f1-b6f3-17936be6fb8c" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:44:36.233" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_%28operating_system%29&gt;)." Text="I suggest you go for the [Moto E][1] (any generation, preferably the latest) or ship any Android one devices because these are the **'purest'** Android devices in the 100$ - 120$ segment out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest advantage is that they don't run bloatware means that you have a clutter-free experience with your Android device, and you stay updated all the time (Google ships updates to these devices faster to these devices compared to other OEMs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorola_Moto#Moto_E&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15690" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1669" RevisionGUID="c49fae27-ad7a-41f1-b6f3-17936be6fb8c" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:44:36.233" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 155 edit id of 512" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15691" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="d8e225a7-97a2-4935-8150-d816db7b5630" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:45:02.610" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture&gt; and &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random-access_memory&gt;)." Text="Because ARM processors are much less expensive and power-consuming, I want to use them in a PC with PC-type RAM and hard-drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a motherboard the allows to use ARM processors with PC-based RAM and hard-drive?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15692" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="d8e225a7-97a2-4935-8150-d816db7b5630" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:45:02.610" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture&gt; and &lt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random-access_memory&gt;)." Text="Is there a motherboard that supports ARM processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15693" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5626" RevisionGUID="d8e225a7-97a2-4935-8150-d816db7b5630" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:45:02.610" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 155 edit id of 514" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15694" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5629" RevisionGUID="3078a09d-94fd-4233-b8ea-6f5b5f8388aa" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:45:41.970" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15697" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5624" RevisionGUID="03512740-36c1-4fcc-aae7-ea063e33d4f0" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:46:45.690" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5636" RevisionGUID="d893018d-8cf0-4eb9-ba59-b95f9feff063" CreationDate="2016-08-28T22:37:06.243" UserId="3836" Text="It's actually totally possible. AMD was supposed to release dev boards based on their new [Opteron A1100 octocore ARM APU][1], but as you can see, there have been severe difficulties with actually getting anyone to ship the darn things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another tantalizing possibility is the **[MP30-AR0 Server Board][2]** by Gigabyte. Again, finding anyone willing to ship this stupid thing is the hard part, but it does *exist*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering Windows 10 works on ARM, Android works on ARM, ChromeOS works on ARM, Linux works on ARM, and some form of Mac's OS works on ARM... I'll leave you to guess why these boards aren't easily available to lowly consumers in an era when CPU power is increasingly irrelevant for most users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.96boards.org/product/huskyboard/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://b2b.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5422#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15699" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="1e7f061b-1e3f-491f-9ede-12925c470540" CreationDate="2016-08-28T23:11:35.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5637" RevisionGUID="43cf6b44-4c82-4b40-a4dc-4296111f962f" CreationDate="2016-08-29T00:24:08.190" UserId="4294" Text="Cooler Master recently released a new keyboard/mouse combo called the [Masterkeys L Lite RGB Combo][1]. One of the RGB modes is a wave pattern. You can get it on [Amazon][2] for about $75 dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://gaming.coolermaster.com/en/products/keyboards/masterkeys-lite-l-combo-rgb/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Keyboard-Mem-chanical-Switches-Brilliant/dp/B01KBXKMM6/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5630" RevisionGUID="d5bfb406-bf04-4484-83a4-efc93d0251f9" CreationDate="2016-08-29T06:42:58.407" UserId="155" Comment="cleaned up grammar; inline link" Text="I am a normal laptop user (Linux). Most of my work is text editing, internet surfing, and movie watching. I want to buy a new laptop with a cost of 500 Euros. According to my work I do not think I need a super processor or GPU,&#xD;&#xA;**but what I really need is a quiet laptop** (fan noise drives me crazy) and I am not sure how to check this before buying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe the [Acer Extensa 2511][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://www.ixsoft.de/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?ref=Products/de/ACEX2511HW-i5200.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15703" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5630" RevisionGUID="d5bfb406-bf04-4484-83a4-efc93d0251f9" CreationDate="2016-08-29T06:42:58.407" UserId="155" Comment="cleaned up grammar; inline link" Text="Which laptop should I buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="a93adc0b-062c-461d-a53e-956b1193622c" CreationDate="2016-08-29T09:35:23.287" UserId="4297" Text="I have a HP Pavillion dv6 laptop for about 6 years now, but I have always had heat (the computer now and then &quot;freezes&quot; because of over-heating, even when I am running no heavy processes) and battery (I am not able to watch a full movie with only the battery) troubles. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that the main problem is in the processor (Intel Core i7 720QM / 1.6 GHz) which consumes too much power and therefore drains battery and overheats at the same time. I read that it is possible to reduce the number of active cores in Windows with msconfig; is this a good idea considering my problem? How will it affect my working experience? Will it reduce heat and increase battery life? Will it reduce performance considerably?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other, and better solutions you would suggest (such as a laptop stand with active cooler, other OS, ...)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15706" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="a93adc0b-062c-461d-a53e-956b1193622c" CreationDate="2016-08-29T09:35:23.287" UserId="4297" Text="Is reducing the number of active cores in my pc a good idea considering heat and battery troubles?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15707" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="a93adc0b-062c-461d-a53e-956b1193622c" CreationDate="2016-08-29T09:35:23.287" UserId="4297" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="72b9c155-b4c6-44e7-9da6-a862ddd1114d" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:40:55.073" UserId="4297" Comment="added 227 characters in body" Text="[**MOVED TO SUPERUSER STACKEXCHANGE**][1]&#xD;&#xA;=========================================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP Pavillion dv6 laptop for about 6 years now, but I have always had heat (the computer now and then &quot;freezes&quot; because of over-heating, even when I am running no heavy processes) and battery (I am not able to watch a full movie with only the battery) troubles. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that the main problem is in the processor (Intel Core i7 720QM / 1.6 GHz) which consumes too much power and therefore drains battery and overheats at the same time. I read that it is possible to reduce the number of active cores in Windows with msconfig; is this a good idea considering my problem? How will it affect my working experience? Will it reduce heat and increase battery life? Will it reduce performance considerably?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other, and better solutions you would suggest (such as a laptop stand with active cooler, other OS, ...)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/1118771/is-reducing-the-number-of-active-cores-in-my-pc-a-good-idea-considering-heat-and" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5639" RevisionGUID="3ce92711-c2b9-4a71-bb82-a4e908d16353" CreationDate="2016-08-29T13:06:15.623" UserId="4299" Text="I am searching for a Switch with at least 1 SFP+ and 16 100/1000Mbit Ports, Jumbo Frames with at least 9216Bytes and SNMP support. &#xD;&#xA;I used a DGS 1510 Series Switch from D-Link until now, but the SNMP features are buggy. The size is important too (the smaller the better) and it should have active cooling.&#xD;&#xA;Vlans should be supported too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15710" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5639" RevisionGUID="3ce92711-c2b9-4a71-bb82-a4e908d16353" CreationDate="2016-08-29T13:06:15.623" UserId="4299" Text="Switch SFP+, 16 100/1000Mb Ports, SNMP support, active cooling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15711" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5639" RevisionGUID="3ce92711-c2b9-4a71-bb82-a4e908d16353" CreationDate="2016-08-29T13:06:15.623" UserId="4299" Text="&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5640" RevisionGUID="5248ffa1-172a-45e9-b4a9-3bdce64ef7e1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T15:22:23.050" UserId="3836" Text="If you can find it in Europe, get the **[ASUS Laptop VivoBook E403SA-US21][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is *fanless*. On top of that, it uses a solid-state drive instead of a typical spinner, so you won't even get access sounds out of this thing. Literally the only noise coming from this machine would be what you ask it to put through its speakers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it perform? In my estimation, yes. Its quad core Pentium N3700, while comparatively weak, should be quite sufficient for all of your needs. 4gb is a bit on the low end these days, and apparently this cannot be upgraded, but since Linux isn't that much of a memory hog to begin with, I'm not too concerned. Even in the event of needing to use swap off the drive, it's a fast drive, so it wouldn't be the absolutely horrendous swap/page file thrashing of yesteryear. Intel HD graphics are well-supported under linux and should provide you with the graphical power to watch movies on the 1080p screen without a hiccup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are lots of little perks to like about this design as well. Because of the low-power CPU and storage solution, Asus reports you could expect up to 14 hours of battery life, which is really quite exceptional. It is also very lightweight and does have a USB-C port, which will probably be important later on for connectivity purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it's the right machine for you. That said, this is not an uncommon design, so if you can find cheaper models with a similar design spec, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend those either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234161&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5641" RevisionGUID="bedb55af-0e2a-4206-9d66-da05cc4c7c4f" CreationDate="2016-08-29T15:28:19.637" UserId="4300" Text="I have a business of 300-400 employees. I am looking for a dual router that can push T3 speeds. I have looked into the Cisco RV325 (the router needs to be Cisco) but I'm not sure if that'll be enough for a company of that size. I've also looked at the 2900 series but it seems a little over kill? I'm new to networking and still getting my bearings when it comes to specs. Any help would be appreciated!&#xA;The two main requirements right now is that is T3 capable and be a dual router. I will have two IPS connections I want to load balance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15714" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5641" RevisionGUID="bedb55af-0e2a-4206-9d66-da05cc4c7c4f" CreationDate="2016-08-29T15:28:19.637" UserId="4300" Text="Cisco dual routers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15715" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5641" RevisionGUID="bedb55af-0e2a-4206-9d66-da05cc4c7c4f" CreationDate="2016-08-29T15:28:19.637" UserId="4300" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15716" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="c8cecaa6-a559-4822-9acb-55f701692e39" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:32:06.027" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15717" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5635" RevisionGUID="165dadfd-9cab-4156-87d6-43f78a8605b2" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:33:34.093" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15718" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5628" RevisionGUID="0a8686fa-11f9-4b42-9056-9074d77b4e70" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:34:45.080" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a UPS that produces a pure sine wave at the output because my PSU has active Power Factor Compensation and from what I read, it doesn't work with pseudo-sine wave output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my system will draw a maximum of 430W with full load. I want just enough time to hibernate the system before it runs out of power. The UPS I'm looking for needs to be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - atleast 700 VA;&#xD;&#xA; - pure sine output;&#xD;&#xA; - under 150 €;&#xD;&#xA; - quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5642" RevisionGUID="a2e6833c-586e-407d-89a6-2bc8c696319d" CreationDate="2016-08-30T01:28:57.757" UserId="4302" Text="I want to do some maths in terms of the max number of Ethernet adapters a motherboard can take for each port to function without any deterioration.&#xD;&#xA;As I'm planning to plug in multiple Ethernet cards(e.g. four  Quad Port Server Adapter assuming the motherboard has enough slots) and they will be connected to FPGA boards and used for their full bandwidth at all times.That's at least sixteen adapters.  I was wondering if there will be any side effects for such a configuration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15720" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5642" RevisionGUID="a2e6833c-586e-407d-89a6-2bc8c696319d" CreationDate="2016-08-30T01:28:57.757" UserId="4302" Text="multiple Ethernet cards on one mother board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15721" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5642" RevisionGUID="a2e6833c-586e-407d-89a6-2bc8c696319d" CreationDate="2016-08-30T01:28:57.757" UserId="4302" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15724" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5639" RevisionGUID="4839d3d2-5d31-4d89-8120-cb2044163397" CreationDate="2016-08-30T05:38:41.410" UserId="4299" Comment="Added specs" Text="I am searching for a Switch with at least 1 SFP+ and 16 100/1000Mbit Ports, Jumbo Frames with at least 9216Bytes and SNMP support. &#xD;&#xA;I used a DGS 1510 Series Switch from D-Link until now, but the SNMP features are buggy. The size is important too (the smaller the better) and it should have active cooling.&#xD;&#xA;Vlans should be supported too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;Price can go up to 200€, There are two cases where this switches will be used.&#xD;&#xA;One time under a machine and one time in a switching box.&#xD;&#xA;Measurment should not exceed 280 × 180 × 44 mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit2:**&#xD;&#xA;The switches are not used for internet access, just for point to point connections, so port features are not necessary. An integrated web-server would be nice too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15725" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5642" RevisionGUID="212e5c1b-50fd-44e0-b503-ee22504a71ca" CreationDate="2016-08-30T07:37:54.567" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5644" RevisionGUID="2a0b5208-d266-4712-8d14-d64813e5acd8" CreationDate="2016-08-30T09:53:17.157" UserId="4306" Text="I know this is a bit late, but I did just find that Alcatel Fierce 4 has a phone for metro PCS and will release one for T-Mobile this fall. It is $69 USD. It will come with marshmallow." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5645" RevisionGUID="4a9932f4-3f17-4043-8c6e-a55f4705accd" CreationDate="2016-08-30T11:11:37.990" UserId="4308" Text="I am going to be building a PC and i have chosen all components, but the CPU. I have stopped on i7-6700k and i7-6800k. I know that for gaming the i7-6700k will have better performance, but i am going to be using my PC for programming/developing applications on VM (Windows 10 with Visual Studio, Eclipse, etc.). So, is the i7-6700k with its 4 cores (2 on the Host and 2 on the Guest) the enough or the i7-6800k with its 6 cores (2 on the Host and 4 on the Guest or 3 on the Host and 3 on the Guest) the better choice? I am just not sure that the i7-6700k will provide me a smooth experience like i am not on a VM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5645" RevisionGUID="4a9932f4-3f17-4043-8c6e-a55f4705accd" CreationDate="2016-08-30T11:11:37.990" UserId="4308" Text="Choosing a CPU for gaming/development PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5645" RevisionGUID="4a9932f4-3f17-4043-8c6e-a55f4705accd" CreationDate="2016-08-30T11:11:37.990" UserId="4308" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15732" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5646" RevisionGUID="75d508e7-ee54-41c9-a6a2-f62968254792" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:36:12.717" UserId="3836" Text="If you're just running one VM, then the i7-6700K will be just fine for you. While it only has four cores, those cores have hyperthreading, which means that as far as your OS and the VM are concerned, your computer would have eight cores. This actually does improve performance. I'm not going to get into the black magic that makes it all work, but for your purposes the **Intel Core i7-6700K** will work fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that matter, you can really step it down to something as low as an FX-8350 and not get noticeable performance differences in most games or VM situations, but I would not recommend doing so unless you were on a strict budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15733" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5633" RevisionGUID="8af4d4ba-22af-45b6-8622-7cad03497de1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:35:28.990" UserId="4057" Comment="Spelling correction" Text="If you are interested in modern stuff, you won't have a problem. Scaling issues only occur with dated software. So, as long as you aren't trying to run Battlefield 1942 you should be able to enjoy your UHD display. Media content has also been getting better suited for 4k, so it is definitely not to early to make the upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15734" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5631" RevisionGUID="94a6abf8-c86c-4678-861a-72dde13f3fe6" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:37:30.587" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15735" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="f5c64ab9-f25d-4aca-89e3-ec7088ac4997" CreationDate="2016-08-30T17:18:11.110" UserId="4311" Text="I always wonder why all the smartphone manufacturers design their smartphones with 60-75% Screen-to-Body ratio. why is it not possible to design a smartphone with 90% or greater ratio. or at least screen touching both edges. the futuristic phones we see in videos always has such type of screen. so why can't we manufacture phones like that with current technology? if there are already such phones available which I'm not yet aware of can anyone provide resources? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15736" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="f5c64ab9-f25d-4aca-89e3-ec7088ac4997" CreationDate="2016-08-30T17:18:11.110" UserId="4311" Text="Smartphones with maximum Screen-to-Body ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15737" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="f5c64ab9-f25d-4aca-89e3-ec7088ac4997" CreationDate="2016-08-30T17:18:11.110" UserId="4311" Text="&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="d5619678-eefb-41ac-b677-765c12102117" CreationDate="2016-08-30T18:27:58.600" UserId="4311" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body" Text="I'm currently looking for a smartphone with maximum Screen-to-Body ratio. i need the smartphone to look like kind of a futuristic way. like screen on both of the edges or screen covering maximum area on front and less edge borders. It doesn't have to be cheap or powerful in processing etc. i just need it to look like next gen gadget. any help is appreciated. thanks in advance! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5648" RevisionGUID="77d326b4-6559-41c8-9bb3-0b6be555e9a6" CreationDate="2016-08-30T18:30:22.970" UserId="4209" Text="[Product][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to be what you are looking for.  It is pure sine wave output, a modest price of $140, 1000 VA, and it is highly rated. It can't be internationally shipped from US Amazon, but this matches your criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="232ba883-264b-44f6-ab32-21d94d116614" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:06:35.320" UserId="155" Comment="changed tag; edited tags" Text="I'm currently looking for a smartphone with maximum screen-to-body ratio. I need the smartphone to look like kind of a futuristic way. like screen on both of the edges or screen covering maximum area on front and less edge borders. It doesn't have to be cheap or powerful in processing etc. I just need it to look like a next-gen gadget. any help is appreciated. thanks in advance! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15741" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="232ba883-264b-44f6-ab32-21d94d116614" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:06:35.320" UserId="155" Comment="changed tag; edited tags" Text="Smartphone with maximum screen-to-body ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15742" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="232ba883-264b-44f6-ab32-21d94d116614" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:06:35.320" UserId="155" Comment="changed tag; edited tags" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15743" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5647" RevisionGUID="c8088372-c488-4738-b9c9-ea211e6371e8" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:47:07.147" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5649" RevisionGUID="a35897bf-de1e-41c3-8570-0c36d64aec94" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:10:43.390" UserId="3987" Text="I want to build up a tvheadend server with 4 possible clients over unicable. So i have a unicable source with 4 channels which i want to pass to a server. Is there any affordable usb receiver, which can handle input from 1 cable with for simultane streams of dvbs2? Or is there a alternative that i dont see?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15745" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5649" RevisionGUID="a35897bf-de1e-41c3-8570-0c36d64aec94" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:10:43.390" UserId="3987" Text="Unicable usb receiver with multiple tuners" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15746" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5649" RevisionGUID="a35897bf-de1e-41c3-8570-0c36d64aec94" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:10:43.390" UserId="3987" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15747" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5649" RevisionGUID="7178dbc7-2846-40d5-be69-eb6d2da20631" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:13:09.043" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 60 characters in body" Text="I want to build up a tvheadend server with 4 possible clients over unicable. So i have a unicable source with 4 channels which i want to pass to a server. Is there any affordable usb receiver, which can handle input from 1 cable with four simultaneous streams of DVBS2?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="e8c3f5be-89a4-41b3-8f57-3450439b2c60" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:36:18.493" UserId="4312" Text="TIL that super-charging Mac hardware is possible with an external GPU. However, most if not all the examples and demos that I'm finding (at least of custom-built solutions) are of people dual-booting into e.g. Windows 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What funny business is there in getting an external GPU to work with the latest version(s) of Mac OSX? If it's totally dependent on the model of GPU, let's say a recent Nvidia GTX model (e.g. 970).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One notable non-Windows example is [this Kickstarter campaign](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/thewolfe/the-wolfe-supercharge-your-laptop?ref=nav_search), whose demo video shows an Nvidia GTX-something working &quot;seamlessly&quot; with Mac OSX.  It seems like these people are doing it the Apple way, which is charging a premium for making it &quot;Just Work&quot;, but (I assume) this is at the expense of future customization (i.e. I won't be able to give it a new card later).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My personal setup is a Macbook Pro 2015, with an i7 and Thunderbolt 2. I'm aware of the bottleneck presented by Thunderbolt 2; I'm really just interested in having an external GPU setup independent of the laptop. I can match a GPU to my available hardware.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15753" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="e8c3f5be-89a4-41b3-8f57-3450439b2c60" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:36:18.493" UserId="4312" Text="External GPU with Mac OSX?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15754" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="e8c3f5be-89a4-41b3-8f57-3450439b2c60" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:36:18.493" UserId="4312" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15755" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="0a2c06a6-5310-4b76-a60f-66b5db2ba44f" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:37:57.580" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5652" RevisionGUID="d664e32f-25c0-4128-9426-a262b46d4b3e" CreationDate="2016-08-31T02:55:46.963" UserId="4318" Text="Our family does long distance car travel 2 or 3 times a year.  I have young kids and I load up movies and tv shows spread across all tablet and phone devices.  What I'd prefer do is run a wifi router in the car that has attached storage.  The router can also support 3/4G network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html but they seem to be the manufacturer intended to be used by wholesalers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know where I can buy such gear retail? I live in Australia.  I've searched and searched but can't find a thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15758" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5652" RevisionGUID="d664e32f-25c0-4128-9426-a262b46d4b3e" CreationDate="2016-08-31T02:55:46.963" UserId="4318" Text="Car / bus 12 volt wifi router external storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15759" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5652" RevisionGUID="d664e32f-25c0-4128-9426-a262b46d4b3e" CreationDate="2016-08-31T02:55:46.963" UserId="4318" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5653" RevisionGUID="62524a19-22e8-47e1-8df5-989fe4109763" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:48:11.850" UserId="4318" Text="I chatted with rep from four-faith.com and they said I can buy from them. At worst I can enter into another chat to make the purchase happen. The model http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html seems best for my needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 9 to 36 Volts DC&#xD;&#xA;* 128GB SSD installed&#xD;&#xA;* 3G / 4G&#xD;&#xA;* IEEE 802.11b/g/n &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price - I'm yet to find out." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5652" RevisionGUID="f3ea23e8-c7a6-48e4-87f2-0174dcfe46d2" CreationDate="2016-08-31T06:06:47.653" UserId="4318" Comment="Added alternative question to enable different answers." Text="Our family does long distance car travel 2 or 3 times a year.  I have young kids and I load up movies and tv shows spread across all tablet and phone devices.  What I'd prefer do is run a wifi router in the car that has attached storage.  The router can also support 3/4G network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html but they seem to be the manufacturer intended to be used by wholesalers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know where I can buy such gear retail? I live in Australia.  I've searched and searched but can't find a thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, can what suggestions are there to enable my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5653" RevisionGUID="619a6441-0d56-4fec-b502-2e04802a88c1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T06:11:27.947" UserId="4318" Comment="Update with price information" Text="I chatted with rep from four-faith.com and they said I can buy from them. At worst I can enter into another chat to make the purchase happen. The model http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html seems best for my needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 9 to 36 Volts DC&#xD;&#xA;* 128GB SSD installed&#xD;&#xA;* 3G / 4G&#xD;&#xA;* IEEE 802.11b/g/n &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price - US$506 shipped.  If I was going to be travelling often then I wouldn't mind paying this.  For 2 or 3 times a year it is a bit too much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5654" RevisionGUID="873651f0-70fc-4c16-8017-70fb852ee16a" CreationDate="2016-08-31T13:03:20.523" UserId="1802" Text="We are cosolidating  video surveillance systems on our sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am &#xD;&#xA;looking for an IP enabled DVR/NVR device that would be capable of handling video signal from &#xD;&#xA;different CCTV BNC analog cameras (presumably all PAL) with different &#xD;&#xA;resolutions CIF, DCIF etc., till max 720 x 480. from different manufacturers (Avir,&#xD;&#xA; Pixim, JCC, Sony, Trans Pac, Tekno, Hikvision, CP Plus etc.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device &#xD;&#xA;should be also able to connect IP ONVIF cameras and work as NVR as we switch to IP cameras continuously. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any known limitations in connecting various analog cameras to the one DVR, like motion detection &#xD;&#xA;issues? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also it should be possible to connect to multiple sites over IP &#xD;&#xA;network with one user-friendly interface or application with password protection and various access levels (separate access rights to view recordings and change settings). It would be nice if it allows &#xD;&#xA;for streaming individual cameras form our custom windows .NET app.&#xD;&#xA;Also the device must be capable of deleting recordings older than X days and perform network time sync. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually there are max. 8 cameras on sites, on some others up to 16.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the [DAHUA S3 or NT][1] looks promising, but I have no hands on experience with it so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/products/hcvr82088216a-s3-2211.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15764" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5654" RevisionGUID="873651f0-70fc-4c16-8017-70fb852ee16a" CreationDate="2016-08-31T13:03:20.523" UserId="1802" Text="DVR/NVR device to connect various analog cameras" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15765" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5654" RevisionGUID="873651f0-70fc-4c16-8017-70fb852ee16a" CreationDate="2016-08-31T13:03:20.523" UserId="1802" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5655" RevisionGUID="33028031-4c1a-46e9-b7ec-0def2d7173c7" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:50:48.180" UserId="3836" Text="I don't think your best solution lies in a single router. My solution is to have you buy a standard car DC to AC inverter if your car doesn't have one built in, then plug a standard retail wireless router with USB filehosting into that, and then configure your router to use its wifi to get the external connection - use OpenWRT on it if necessary - a 4G hotpot modem or one of your 4G-connected phones in tethering mode. I do this in my van and it is the cheapest way I've found to do it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5654" RevisionGUID="b7c5da28-55fe-4ffa-ae5d-11528c76d13b" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:22:51.100" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 123 characters in body" Text="We are cosolidating  video surveillance systems on our sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am &#xD;&#xA;looking for an IP enabled DVR/NVR device that would be capable of handling video signal from &#xD;&#xA;different CCTV BNC analog cameras (presumably all PAL) with different &#xD;&#xA;resolutions CIF, DCIF etc., till max 720 x 480. from different manufacturers (Avir,&#xD;&#xA; Pixim, JCC, Sony, Trans Pac, Tekno, Hikvision, CP Plus etc.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device &#xD;&#xA;should be also able to connect IP ONVIF cameras and work as NVR as we switch to IP cameras continuously. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also it should be possible to connect to multiple sites over IP &#xD;&#xA;network with one user-friendly interface or application with password protection and various access levels (separate access rights to view recordings and change settings). It would be nice if it allows &#xD;&#xA;for streaming individual cameras form our custom windows .NET app.&#xD;&#xA;Also the device must be capable of deleting recordings older than X days and perform network time sync. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually there are max. 8 cameras on sites, on some others up to 16.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the [DAHUA S3 or NT][1] looks promising, but I have no hands on experience with it so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/products/hcvr82088216a-s3-2211.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="8168a595-ed9b-4adf-ba06-eaf40e9c5757" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:44:07.787" UserId="4322" Text="I'm looking for a USB thumb drive to keep on my keychain, but with removable (therefore replaceable and upgradable) microSD storage rather than flash memory that is built into the device. There are of course hundreds of options for something like this, but I'm looking for a specific set of features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking for something like the Kingston Datatraveler or the similar Samsung thumb drive (photos below), but with removable microSD storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Metal unibody construction&#xD;&#xA; - USB type-A connector built into the body (not a slide-out connector or one with a detachable cap)&#xD;&#xA; - Large hole at one end for a keyring, also built into the body of the device and not a tether cord or plastic piece. Ideally the hole would be like the Kensington model below, so the whole device is flat and lays flat with keys on the keyring)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kingston Datatraveler:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung thumb drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PwFJE.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Yw8G.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15769" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="8168a595-ed9b-4adf-ba06-eaf40e9c5757" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:44:07.787" UserId="4322" Text="Is there a USB micro SD card reader in a sturdy metal keychain thumb drive form factor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15770" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="8168a595-ed9b-4adf-ba06-eaf40e9c5757" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:44:07.787" UserId="4322" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="3515a2b1-35c3-4b9f-a440-7ea5a9fad04d" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:54:44.280" UserId="4322" Comment="added 336 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a USB thumb drive to keep on my keychain, but with removable (therefore replaceable and upgradable) microSD storage rather than flash memory that is built into the device. There are of course hundreds of options for something like this, but I'm looking for a specific set of features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking for something like the Kingston Datatraveler or the similar Samsung thumb drive (photos below), but with removable microSD storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Metal unibody construction&#xD;&#xA; - USB type-A connector built into the body (not a slide-out connector or one with a detachable cap)&#xD;&#xA; - Large hole at one end for a keyring, also built into the body of the device and not a tether cord or plastic piece. Ideally the hole would be like the Kensington model below, so the whole device is flat and lays flat with keys on the keyring)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kingston Datatraveler:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung thumb drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine the micro SD card would be installed similarly to how this device works: the card is inserted into the USB connector itself. I actually have one of these exact readers and it works well but is way too flimsy for daily duty on my keychain:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Yw8G.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PwFJE.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DTSKj.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15772" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="07216e03-796b-405e-a0a8-a6f771df7b65" CreationDate="2016-08-31T16:04:29.927" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a USB thumb drive to keep on my keychain, but with removable (therefore replaceable and upgradable) microSD storage rather than flash memory that is built into the device. There are of course hundreds of options for something like this, but I'm looking for a specific set of features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I'm looking for something like the Kingston Datatraveler or the similar Samsung thumb drive (photos below), but with removable microSD storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Metal unibody construction&#xD;&#xA; - USB type-A connector built into the body (not a slide-out connector or one with a detachable cap)&#xD;&#xA; - Large hole at one end for a keyring, also built into the body of the device and not a tether cord or plastic piece. Ideally the hole would be like the Kingston model below, so the whole device is flat and lays flat with keys on the keyring)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kingston Datatraveler:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung thumb drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine the micro SD card would be installed similarly to how this device works: the card is inserted into the USB connector itself. I actually have one of these exact readers and it works well but is way too flimsy for daily duty on my keychain:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Yw8G.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/PwFJE.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/DTSKj.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15777" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="d673dda9-5efe-4dcb-878b-ea9fbfe2cfce" CreationDate="2016-08-31T19:07:11.207" UserId="4312" Comment="narrowed and clarified the question scope" Text="TIL that super-charging Mac hardware is possible with an external GPU. However, most if not all the examples and demos that I'm finding (at least of custom-built solutions) are of people dual-booting into e.g. Windows 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products like what's on [this Kickstarter campaign](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/thewolfe/the-wolfe-supercharge-your-laptop?ref=nav_search), or [BizonBox](https://bizon-tech.com/us/bizonbox2-egpu.html/), are marketed as designed to work with Mac hardware *and software*. However, Bizonbox for example lists the Nvidia GTX 1060 and up as Windows only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I safely assume that the ones listed as Mac-friendly will work with Mac OSX? Further, why aren't the GTX 1060/1070 listed as Mac friendly (is it a software or hardware issue), and how likely is it that they will be Mac-friendly in the future?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="2696e5af-8517-4115-a6e5-71927897700c" CreationDate="2016-08-31T23:01:29.343" UserId="4326" Text="I had an old PC (the build was originally a Siemens Celsius 460 workstation) whose case I wanted to strip apart and supply with newer components. For most components (those with standardised sizes, i.e. hard drive, optical drive, mainboard) this was easy but I ran into an unexpected problem when wanting to install the new power supply unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The previously installed unit — an Astec AA21720 — was screwed into a metal in-between casing thing&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; and then onto the back of the case. The new unit — a Corsair VS350 — has its screwholes in different locations (what I presume is today’s standard locations). It’s not physically possible to fasten the new PSU with the screws and the in-between thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; provided and it’s not really possible to screw it in without it. But, the new PSU, while being wider than the old one (15 cm versus 12.5 cm) is still slimmer than the width of the case (approx. 18 cm). This leads me to believe that I haven’t lost yet. But let me show you some pictures first, so we know what we are talking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Astec AA21720, the old PSU][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;The old PSU with the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; to screw into the back of the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Corsair VS350, the new PSU][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;The new PSU as is. But with the screw locations visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Side-by-side view of both PSUs][3]][3]  &#xD;&#xA;And these are both to compare them with each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any positioning-adapter thing-a-ma-jigsies&lt;sup&gt;\[2\]&lt;/sup&gt; that I could buy and put between the new PSU and the back side of the case, so that all screws can fit into holes made for them? Sort of like the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; the old PSU has, which basically allows to screw that one into chassis screw holes which are somewhere completely different. If so, where can I find them, or would it be cheaper to buy a new case? (If I would, I would buy the lowest-end cheap stuff because I don’t give a damn about most of the cool things that a case can do, so assume the bottom end of the price scale for standard PC cases.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For convenience, I have labelled the two things I don’t know what to call by superscripted \[1\] and \[2\]. Superscripted \[1\] always refers to the metal thing seen in the first picture, distinguishable from the PSU by its darker shade of grey. Superscripted \[2\] refers to some similar thing I do not own yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBqm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOdm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojnam.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15779" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="2696e5af-8517-4115-a6e5-71927897700c" CreationDate="2016-08-31T23:01:29.343" UserId="4326" Text="Remedies for new PSU not fitting into old case (but with extraneous space so it could be made fit)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15780" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="2696e5af-8517-4115-a6e5-71927897700c" CreationDate="2016-08-31T23:01:29.343" UserId="4326" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15781" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="6dc56702-5538-46ee-a007-3b641af1c0c4" CreationDate="2016-09-01T00:08:03.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5653" RevisionGUID="e282fa12-4eca-4552-95ee-c0bc7b7b7d2e" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:00:17.163" UserId="4318" Comment="Added a cheaper option." Text="I chatted with rep from four-faith.com and they said I can buy from them. At worst I can enter into another chat to make the purchase happen. The model http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html seems best for my needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 9 to 36 Volts DC&#xD;&#xA;* 128GB SSD installed&#xD;&#xA;* 3G / 4G&#xD;&#xA;* IEEE 802.11b/g/n &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price - US$506 shipped.  If I was going to be travelling often then I wouldn't mind paying this.  For 2 or 3 times a year it is a bit too much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have a model with 32G TF card instead of 128Gb SSD.  It is US$370 shipped." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="d573d5ac-670d-457d-b09e-00225418ca06" CreationDate="2016-09-01T05:45:19.763" UserId="4253" Text="*Hi. I want to play with smart home devices before a real project.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start with power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need an one-room system, wireless. It should be scalable for a few rooms, sensors, etc. in the future. Few wires are acceptable for this. &#xD;&#xA; - Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. &#xD;&#xA; - Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacles (not including the main&#xD;&#xA;   controller).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Difficulty level**: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy. &#xD;&#xA;So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, &quot;arduino&quot; level is ok. &#xD;&#xA;Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary things. Here's &quot;and&quot;, not &quot;or&quot;. For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me recommendations for the best platform with a rough pricing and links. The question is de facto two tangled question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the main communication standard for my system?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What is the suitable main controller(s)? Can it be just a local web-server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="d573d5ac-670d-457d-b09e-00225418ca06" CreationDate="2016-09-01T05:45:19.763" UserId="4253" Text="Smart Home: controlled power receptacles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="d573d5ac-670d-457d-b09e-00225418ca06" CreationDate="2016-09-01T05:45:19.763" UserId="4253" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;automation&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="b5450945-26df-46f1-b8c6-cdd6a2d7d6a6" CreationDate="2016-09-01T07:58:30.973" UserId="4326" Comment="Edited the image links so they lead to larger versions of the pictures." Text="I had an old PC (the build was originally a Siemens Celsius 460 workstation) whose case I wanted to strip apart and supply with newer components. For most components (those with standardised sizes, i.e. hard drive, optical drive, mainboard) this was easy but I ran into an unexpected problem when wanting to install the new power supply unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The previously installed unit — an Astec AA21720 — was screwed into a metal in-between casing thing&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; and then onto the back of the case. The new unit — a Corsair VS350 — has its screwholes in different locations (what I presume is today’s standard locations). It’s not physically possible to fasten the new PSU with the screws and the in-between thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; provided and it’s not really possible to screw it in without it. But, the new PSU, while being wider than the old one (15 cm versus 12.5 cm) is still slimmer than the width of the case (approx. 18 cm). This leads me to believe that I haven’t lost yet. But let me show you some pictures first, so we know what we are talking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Astec AA21720, the old PSU][1]][4]  &#xD;&#xA;The old PSU with the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; to screw into the back of the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Corsair VS350, the new PSU][2]][5]  &#xD;&#xA;The new PSU as is. But with the screw locations visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Side-by-side view of both PSUs][3]][6]  &#xD;&#xA;And these are both to compare them with each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any positioning-adapter thing-a-ma-jigsies&lt;sup&gt;\[2\]&lt;/sup&gt; that I could buy and put between the new PSU and the back side of the case, so that all screws can fit into holes made for them? Sort of like the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; the old PSU has, which basically allows to screw that one into chassis screw holes which are somewhere completely different. If so, where can I find them, or would it be cheaper to buy a new case? (If I would, I would buy the lowest-end cheap stuff because I don’t give a damn about most of the cool things that a case can do, so assume the bottom end of the price scale for standard PC cases.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For convenience, I have labelled the two things I don’t know what to call by superscripted \[1\] and \[2\]. Superscripted \[1\] always refers to the metal thing seen in the first picture, distinguishable from the PSU by its darker shade of grey. Superscripted \[2\] refers to some similar thing I do not own yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBqm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOdm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojnam.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOd.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojna.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15788" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="ce96938c-362a-44dd-852e-26c20fce5428" CreationDate="2016-09-01T09:15:54.230" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[5595],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="d4b413c7-2fdf-4aae-aa7e-5eaab7cadd25" CreationDate="2016-09-01T16:08:37.920" UserId="4253" Comment="added 131 characters in body" Text="*Hi. I want to play with smart home devices before a real project.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start with power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need an one-room system, wireless. It should be scalable for a few rooms, sensors, etc. in the future. Few wires are acceptable for this. &#xD;&#xA; - Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. &#xD;&#xA; - Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacles (not including the main&#xD;&#xA;   controller).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Difficulty level**: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy. &#xD;&#xA;So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, &quot;arduino&quot; level is ok. &#xD;&#xA;Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary things. Here's &quot;and&quot;, not &quot;or&quot;. For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me recommendations for the best platform with a rough pricing and links. The question is de facto two tangled question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the main communication standard for my system?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What is the suitable main controller(s)? Can it be just a local web-server?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It isn't a duplicate. This is a different question. It's not needed to be explained, it's obvious for person who had read both." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="4226c20c-0a3d-43a4-8d31-a1459a5e2628" CreationDate="2016-09-01T16:17:09.403" UserId="4253" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="*Hi. I want to play with smart home devices before a real project.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start with power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need an one-room system, wireless. It should be scalable for a few rooms, sensors, etc. in the future. Few wires are acceptable for this. &#xD;&#xA; - Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. &#xD;&#xA; - Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacles (not including the main&#xD;&#xA;   controller).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Difficulty level**: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy. &#xD;&#xA;So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, &quot;arduino&quot; level is ok. &#xD;&#xA;Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary things. Here's &quot;and&quot;, not &quot;or&quot;. For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me recommendations for the best platform with a rough pricing and links. The question is de facto two tangled question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the main communication standard for my system?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What is the suitable main controller(s)? Can it be just a local web-server?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It isn't a duplicate. This is a different question. It's not needed to be explained, it's obvious for person who had read the both." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5660" RevisionGUID="d9372361-b359-4289-9487-57488297fd55" CreationDate="2016-09-02T00:25:44.630" UserId="4334" Text="As discussed in this [question][1], a [US to Europe Plug Converter Travel Charger Adapter for Apple iBook/MacBook][2] could be used. However, this particular entry in Amazon would cost ~14$ and I am located in San Francisco for September. I tried to ship it to Greece, but Amazon wouldn't accept that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the questions is if there is this particular hardware piece somewhere in San Francisco, so I can go and pick it. Please recommend! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Sorry, if this is not the most appropriate question, but I am really desperate on finding one!&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/250751/power-for-my-us-laptop-in-europe&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VK475Y/?tag=stackoverfl08-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15793" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5660" RevisionGUID="d9372361-b359-4289-9487-57488297fd55" CreationDate="2016-09-02T00:25:44.630" UserId="4334" Text="Charger for my Mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15794" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5660" RevisionGUID="d9372361-b359-4289-9487-57488297fd55" CreationDate="2016-09-02T00:25:44.630" UserId="4334" Text="&lt;power&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;power-converter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5661" RevisionGUID="cc78949e-6a17-4099-ac3d-8ec0fdf1c1ee" CreationDate="2016-09-02T01:55:11.357" UserId="3836" Text="Find out what form factor the original PSU is, then buy a **PSU Adapter Plate** which will adapt whatever that form factor is to standard ATX. Then attach that plate to your new PSU, and then bolt the other form factor edge to the darker gray object (object [1] in your nomenclature). Should work, though you might have to get creative with fasteners (you might need flat head bolts)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15799" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="de41939d-a69d-4f1e-9dbd-af762b540b29" CreationDate="2016-09-02T02:53:29.587" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15802" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5660" RevisionGUID="6663e887-80ab-4498-9d5a-866581bbc088" CreationDate="2016-09-02T03:19:04.557" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5663" RevisionGUID="6051f8df-2f0e-4e79-85a4-b1b47b5ea211" CreationDate="2016-09-02T08:28:02.570" UserId="4336" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a small computer (preferably with Linux, but as long as it can be programmed I am happy), that comes in a casing and has at least one RS-232 (9 pin D-SUB) connector and an ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power consumption is not an issue, it will be grid-powered, size and price are important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the NanosG20, but I was wondering if that is a good choice, or that others are perhaps available.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5663" RevisionGUID="6051f8df-2f0e-4e79-85a4-b1b47b5ea211" CreationDate="2016-09-02T08:28:02.570" UserId="4336" Text="Small computer with RS-232 and Ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5663" RevisionGUID="6051f8df-2f0e-4e79-85a4-b1b47b5ea211" CreationDate="2016-09-02T08:28:02.570" UserId="4336" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15806" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="5748be51-294c-41d5-b819-d3574fca77dc" CreationDate="2016-09-02T08:57:18.343" UserId="4253" Comment="deleted 398 characters in body" Text="I want to get power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need an one-room system, wireless.&#xD;&#xA; - Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. &#xD;&#xA; - Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacles (not including other parts).&#xD;&#xA; - Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in. Status isn't necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary protocols' devices. Here's &quot;and&quot;, not &quot;or&quot;. For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me. The receptaplaces controller functional should be expandable with sensors, actuators, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Difficulty level**: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy. &#xD;&#xA;So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, anything from the &quot;arduino&quot; level is ok. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me the recommendations with a rough pricing and links. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15807" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="65852815-f81c-4b2e-98bb-aa18efd328ec" CreationDate="2016-09-02T09:26:07.687" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2816" RevisionGUID="f7a501a2-d1f6-45de-b2ed-b7ee53d62ddd" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:25:46.513" UserId="8" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="## Looking for technical support or advice?&#xA;&#xA;This site doesn't do technical support. Questions here that ask for technical support may be closed quickly, and are unlikely to receive answers. Instead of asking here, try these places:&#xA;&#xA;- [Super User](http://superuser.com)&#xA;- [Reddit's /r/techsupport](https://reddit.com/r/techsupport)&#xA;- [PC Advisor forums](http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/forum/helproom-1/)&#xA;- Official support forums for [Apple](https://discussions.apple.com/welcome) and [Microsoft](https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="933" RevisionGUID="10c45595-95e5-4a68-929a-c976f8025c29" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:26:38.653" UserId="8" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Technical support of any kind (try &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com&quot;&gt;Super User&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Step-by-step instructions for &quot;do-it-yourself&quot; installation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Anything not directly related to recommending hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions that are primarily opinion-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions with too many possible answers or that would require an extremely long answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15810" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5659" RevisionGUID="286a6794-77dc-4cdd-ab3c-9f71feef8d15" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:27:59.873" UserId="4253" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I want to get power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I need an one-room system, wireless.&#xD;&#xA; - Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. &#xD;&#xA; - Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacle (not including other parts).&#xD;&#xA; - Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in. Status isn't necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary protocols' devices. Here's &quot;and&quot;, not &quot;or&quot;. For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me. The receptaplaces controller functional should be expandable with sensors, actuators, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Difficulty level**: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy. &#xD;&#xA;So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, anything from the &quot;arduino&quot; level is ok. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me the recommendations with a rough pricing and links. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5664" RevisionGUID="69723d41-451e-4f91-b382-c9b93caf3dfd" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:22:17.007" UserId="3836" Text="One solution with which I am familiar is to buy an older thin client such as the **[HP t5740e WES][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine is low-power and fairly cheap, but it has your RS-232 and ethernet as required. It also has some other neat perks, like 4gb of internal flash storage (not as fast as a conventional SSD for sustained reads/writes, but should make for a good swap partition or even OS partition, since it is low-power and has good seek times).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest downside here is that it runs on the Atom N280 chip, which is a very low performance single core x86 processor with hyperthreading. A headless or openbox/i3/LXDE-based linux would be the best match for its capabilities, and don't ask it to do to much in the way of running a program. I've run old dosbox games on it just fine, but that's about the limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Hp-t5740e-Thin-Client-WES7-4gb-flash-2gb-ram-no-stand-or-adapter-/122097037103?hash=item1c6d8cef2f:g:BEcAAOSwXeJXdR-b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15812" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5651" RevisionGUID="12904395-3a5b-4002-bb9a-aef2972625eb" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:43:37.183" UserId="4312" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an external GPU to use with a Macbook Pro, with Thunderbolt 2 and running OSX. Most of the examples I've found online are of people using an eGPU for gaming, dual-booting on Windows 10, on Mac hardware. That's not my goal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products like what's on [this Kickstarter campaign](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/thewolfe/the-wolfe-supercharge-your-laptop?ref=nav_search), or [BizonBox](https://bizon-tech.com/us/bizonbox2-egpu.html/), are supposedly designed to work with Mac hardware *and software*. However, Bizonbox for example lists the Nvidia GTX 1060 and up as Windows only. I assume that's because of the availability of Thunderbolt hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want is a GPU that will work with Mac OSX, and an enclosure that supports both Thunderbolt 2 and 3 – or if not both, then can be upgraded when I upgrade my laptop. Is this possible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5665" RevisionGUID="95cc4f7c-9612-4ffd-be16-30e3bcbcfd8b" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:55:00.873" UserId="4339" Text="By how much the processing time of macbook pro changes by changing sata drive to ssd? If it makes much difference then which ssd will be best? I was thinking of changing by current SATA drive but I want to first get sure that after changing I will get a considerable change in performance of my Mac. I used a MacBook air and was stunned by its performance. The only difference between my MacBook pro and air was of hard drive. I searched google about it but didn't got any good answer about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5665" RevisionGUID="95cc4f7c-9612-4ffd-be16-30e3bcbcfd8b" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:55:00.873" UserId="4339" Text="SSD vs SATA Drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5665" RevisionGUID="95cc4f7c-9612-4ffd-be16-30e3bcbcfd8b" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:55:00.873" UserId="4339" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15816" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5665" RevisionGUID="f278f2fa-8640-4ac4-a390-cbbbf04289e4" CreationDate="2016-09-02T17:27:25.977" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5666" RevisionGUID="07e93d5b-9256-43fc-bd5a-4f63e288ea48" CreationDate="2016-09-02T19:37:30.613" UserId="3836" Text="Another possible solution, if you need even less processing power and more cost savings, might be the **[ALIX.3D2][1]**. This is a dev board which supports linux and runs an AMD Geode x86 processor at 500mhz - very low power, very low performance, but also very small and rather inexpensive - though you'll have to source the enclosure and power supply as well, of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALIX-3D2-500-MHz-AMD-Geode-LX800-256-MB-DDR-DRAM-/131846290703?hash=item1eb2a6bd0f:g:l0MAAOSwLVZVrYx1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5667" RevisionGUID="e40c042f-5494-4691-8603-a037fe73e728" CreationDate="2016-09-02T19:55:25.907" UserId="3836" Text="This one's pretty easy, really. Pick up the **[TP-Link HS100 Wi-Fi Smart Plug][1]**. It was the first device I found when I searched for &quot;smart outlet.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is $25&#xD;&#xA;- It is bog standard 2.4ghz wifi&#xD;&#xA;- It turns stuff on and off&#xD;&#xA;- It is still made and supported by TP-Link, which is a large and well-known networking products manufacturer&#xD;&#xA;- It's easy to use - &quot;[there's an app for that][2]&quot; as it were. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&amp;sku=1208066&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwxqS-BRDRgPLp0q2t0IUBEiQAgfMXRBHZrcxW-3eJ_885GaDOGn_in7D1D_AH7IdUTC4zv5IaAjkB8P8HAQ&amp;is=REG&amp;ap=y&amp;m=Y&amp;c3api=1876%2C92051677562%2C&amp;A=details&amp;Q=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tplink.kasa_android" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5668" RevisionGUID="22476e62-eceb-49cb-93d2-16a719dc269f" CreationDate="2016-09-02T22:42:43.020" UserId="4136" Text="Mini-Box OpenUPS does the job but is much too expensive at $150. I won't accept this answer because I think something much cheaper should exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything asked for in the question, plus balancing up to 6S and some other battery chemistries too and output is not just in the right range, but even configurable in a larger range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product page [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mini-box.com/OpenUPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15822" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5669" RevisionGUID="c0433bc1-0a59-43e2-bf04-54be6699c0fd" CreationDate="2016-09-03T04:58:51.883" UserId="4057" Text="For your CPU a 4GB GTX 970 would be a good matchup. It would also be a huge upgrade from your current card. It is also way under your budget at around $300, but nothing better than that would really be worth the price for you due to a CPU bottlenck.&#xA;&#xA;GTX 970 4GB OC Edition - https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16814125840&#xA;&#xA;Your mobo's PCIe 2.0 might be a little bit of a problem but you really dont haveto worry about it, since AM3+ doesn't supprt 3.0 anyways..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15823" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5670" RevisionGUID="7883234f-ee83-436a-8190-af91b7d54b7f" CreationDate="2016-09-03T17:05:47.970" UserId="4349" Text="I expect to build a workstation machine based on xeon chip, essentially for having multiple cores and ecc memory. I found on ebay some used xeon E5 chips with low prices, but they are tagged &quot;ES&quot; (engineering samples), or &quot;QS&quot;. I searched a bit about these chips, it's said it's illegal to own these chips. They also said that ES chips are not 100% stable, and that's specifically what I'm searching for. (&quot;I don't care&quot; about consumption). They also talk about stepping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What can you advice ? E3 / E5 / E7 chip ? V1/V2/V3/V4 ? &#xD;&#xA;Edit : I prefer E5, in order to add a second processor in future. &#xD;&#xA;Used/not used/ES used ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15824" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5670" RevisionGUID="7883234f-ee83-436a-8190-af91b7d54b7f" CreationDate="2016-09-03T17:05:47.970" UserId="4349" Text="Intel Xeon E5 ES (engineering sample)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15825" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5670" RevisionGUID="7883234f-ee83-436a-8190-af91b7d54b7f" CreationDate="2016-09-03T17:05:47.970" UserId="4349" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5671" RevisionGUID="e490a2eb-c185-41f3-9edc-4f5a5bbd401e" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:14:47.107" UserId="4346" Text="Here's my current config&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5 4440 @ 3.1 GHz (Onboard GPU -  Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB Ram&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Running Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bit)&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-CS  Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a casual gamer and am also looking at doing a bit of android dev. I was thinking of adding a dedicated GPU to expand on the number of games I could play and also to accelerate the android emulator's performance while developing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was considering the GTX 750 Ti however the comments on this [amazon page][1] and this [toms hardware thread][2] mention the following games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Crysis 3 -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Arkham Knight -  2015&#xD;&#xA; - Metro 2033 -  2010&#xD;&#xA; - Batman: Arkham City -  2011&#xD;&#xA; - Need for Speed Rivals -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Battlefield 4 -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Tital Fall -  2014&#xD;&#xA; - BioShock Infinite -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Watch Dogs -  2014&#xD;&#xA; - Battlefield: Bad Company 2 -  2010&#xD;&#xA; - Call of Duty: Black Ops II -  2012&#xD;&#xA; - Ryse: Son of Rome : 2013&#xD;&#xA; - Batman Arkham Origins : 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed most games were from pre 2013 with a few from 2015. I have been able to play many of them without a dedicated graphics card. Some of the games I've been able to play are Assassin's creed 1, Assassin's creed 2, Batman Arkham Origins, Watch Dogs with ease. All of which were made around the same time as the games on the list above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to test the rest yet, but it did get me thinking as to how much of a difference would it make to add a GTX 750 Ti. I'm not looking at maxed out settings and FPS, just decent gameplay. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Are there games I absolutely cannot play without a dedicated Graphics Card. (At mid / low settings with decent FPS)&#xD;&#xA;2. How much of a difference would it make with the android emulator performance.&#xD;&#xA;3. Would the power of my onboard graphics go unutilized in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I haven't stuffed too many questions together, thought of clubing them as they are all related to the same problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/ZOTAC-GeForce-Graphics-Black-Orange/dp/B00IFZ547Q&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2705075/list-games-play-gtx-750ti-ultra-setting.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15827" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5671" RevisionGUID="e490a2eb-c185-41f3-9edc-4f5a5bbd401e" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:14:47.107" UserId="4346" Text="How better is the GTX 750 Ti over Intel HD Graphics 4600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15828" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5671" RevisionGUID="e490a2eb-c185-41f3-9edc-4f5a5bbd401e" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:14:47.107" UserId="4346" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15829" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5670" RevisionGUID="8c204d13-776c-47a4-903f-7f807eed156e" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:20:53.837" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15830" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5671" RevisionGUID="f6a40161-d9b5-45b3-8b3f-9e088b9e6a64" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:21:36.113" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15839" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="95bc24f3-0aa2-44e5-9dea-d5b1014c02a2" CreationDate="2016-09-04T10:28:26.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15843" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4407" RevisionGUID="b2404666-5d67-43cb-9cdc-626931c81295" CreationDate="2016-09-04T15:35:13.103" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5675" RevisionGUID="7bb280c8-f6d7-4262-8576-9249bcb9f4fe" CreationDate="2016-09-04T17:02:01.427" UserId="4358" Text="I am currently looking for a new 14&quot; notebook and I'm choosing between the Dell E7470 and the Lenovo T460s. (Unfortunately I cannot post links to these due to &lt;10 reputation.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other differences aside, I can see that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the Dell E7470 has two memory banks and therefore supports a dual-channel configuration, but although it can accommodate a PCIe NVMe SSD too, it will [run at half of the PCIe bandwidth](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/anyone-upgrade-a-pm951-in-a-laptop.791497/page-2#post-10264901).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- the Lenovo T460s comes with choices of PCIe NVMe SSDs, but has 4 GB of RAM soldered, so if I add more than another 4 GB of RAM, then it will not run in a dual-channel configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would be more important for overall performance, dual-channel memory or an NVMe SSD at the full PCIe bandwith?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My performance requirements are not that high, just some Java and PHP software development and running virtual machines, but I would like to have something that will still be sufficient in a few years. (My current notebook is nearly 10 years old!)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15846" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5675" RevisionGUID="7bb280c8-f6d7-4262-8576-9249bcb9f4fe" CreationDate="2016-09-04T17:02:01.427" UserId="4358" Text="Is dual-channel memory or PCIe NVMe SSD more important for overall performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15847" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5675" RevisionGUID="7bb280c8-f6d7-4262-8576-9249bcb9f4fe" CreationDate="2016-09-04T17:02:01.427" UserId="4358" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5676" RevisionGUID="551d1b9d-b086-43a1-967a-0cdef64b952b" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:04:22.660" UserId="4358" Text="In [another question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/5675/is-dual-channel-memory-or-pcie-nvme-ssd-more-important-for-overall-performance), I asked how one specific difference between the Dell E7470 and the Lenovo T460s affects performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on other differences between these two notebooks, I'm leaning towards the Dell E7470.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although the Dell E7470 supports PCIe NVMe SSDs, they will [run at half of the PCIe bandwidth](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/anyone-upgrade-a-pm951-in-a-laptop.791497/page-2#post-10264901). If I buy this notebook, how much would I still benefit from replacing the stock SATA III SSD with a PCIe NVMe SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm talking about performance gain noticable in practice, with my main usage being software development and running virtual machines.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15849" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5676" RevisionGUID="551d1b9d-b086-43a1-967a-0cdef64b952b" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:04:22.660" UserId="4358" Text="How much practical benefit from SATA III to PCIe SSD upgrade if PCIe at half bandwidth?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15850" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5676" RevisionGUID="551d1b9d-b086-43a1-967a-0cdef64b952b" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:04:22.660" UserId="4358" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15851" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5676" RevisionGUID="19d78a22-45f7-4894-8f57-7ad656f763f4" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:15:34.643" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15852" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5675" RevisionGUID="92493fe1-871b-4f6c-bf06-6b4a781318fa" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:15:52.640" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5677" RevisionGUID="ac8bfc07-d7da-4a83-ad6b-962144da8030" CreationDate="2016-09-04T21:44:04.673" UserId="4363" Text="I'm looking for an audio board or USB dongle that has proper [sidetone][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't use a headset with integrated mic because I don't like the bad sound quality. Instead I have a separate desk microphone plugged in to the mic port, and earphones. However on my mobo with Windows 10 clicking on the &quot;listen to this device&quot; in the audio settings gives me the microphone audio with a delay of a couple of tenths of a second or so (presumably its made the round trip through the A-D, digital mixing and then D-A). This makes it unusable: if you try talking while listening to your delayed voice it makes you stammer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a reasonably cheap, reasonably good quality audio board (either a PCI-E board or USB) that has a proper sidetone setting so that I can hear myself in real time without that delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any recommendations? I've looked through Amazon, but most vendors don't even mention it. When they do its not clear whether there is a delay. Nobody uses the word &quot;sidetone&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sidetone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5677" RevisionGUID="ac8bfc07-d7da-4a83-ad6b-962144da8030" CreationDate="2016-09-04T21:44:04.673" UserId="4363" Text="Computer audio solution with sidetone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5677" RevisionGUID="ac8bfc07-d7da-4a83-ad6b-962144da8030" CreationDate="2016-09-04T21:44:04.673" UserId="4363" Text="&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5639" RevisionGUID="28e66a26-00a1-46c4-abd8-e5484c366144" CreationDate="2016-09-05T05:18:15.640" UserId="4299" Comment="spelling" Text="I am searching for a Switch with at least 1 SFP+ and 16 100/1000Mbit Ports, Jumbo Frames with at least 9216Bytes and SNMP support. &#xD;&#xA;I used a DGS 1510 Series Switch from D-Link until now, but the SNMP features are buggy. The size is important too (the smaller the better) and it should have active cooling.&#xD;&#xA;Vlans should be supported too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;Price can go up to 200€, There are two cases where these switches will be used.&#xD;&#xA;One time under a machine and one time in a switching box.&#xD;&#xA;Measurment should not exceed 280 × 180 × 44 mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit2:**&#xD;&#xA;The switches are not used for internet access, just for point to point connections, so port features are not necessary. An integrated web-server would be nice too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15866" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5663" RevisionGUID="2ba5b7e0-79d6-4fae-9794-e21345c9ca1a" CreationDate="2016-09-05T07:33:23.877" UserId="4336" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a small computer (preferably with Linux, but as long as it can be programmed I am happy), that comes in a casing and has at least one RS-232 (9 pin D-SUB) connector and an ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power consumption is not an issue, it will be grid-powered, size and price are important. Also, it is for a commercial application, so availability is also important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the NanosG20, but I was wondering if that is a good choice, or that others are perhaps available.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15876" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="096c8008-99f1-432c-868b-2f88770dd7c0" CreationDate="2016-09-05T22:56:48.340" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15877" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5658" RevisionGUID="6fd50557-047b-4599-85a7-8a97f3ee7d24" CreationDate="2016-09-05T22:57:26.133" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 72 characters in body" Text="I had an old PC (the build was originally a Siemens Celsius 460 workstation) whose case I wanted to strip apart and supply with newer components. For most components (those with standardised sizes, i.e. hard drive, optical drive, mainboard) this was easy but I ran into an unexpected problem when wanting to install the new power supply unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The previously installed unit — an Astec AA21720 — was screwed into a metal in-between casing thing&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; and then onto the back of the case. The new unit — a Corsair VS350 — has its screwholes in different locations (what I presume is today’s standard locations). It’s not physically possible to fasten the new PSU with the screws and the in-between thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; provided and it’s not really possible to screw it in without it. But, the new PSU, while being wider than the old one (15 cm versus 12.5 cm) is still slimmer than the width of the case (approx. 18 cm). This leads me to believe that I haven’t lost yet. But let me show you some pictures first, so we know what we are talking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Astec AA21720, the old PSU][1]][4]  &#xD;&#xA;The old PSU with the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; to screw into the back of the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image of the back side of Corsair VS350, the new PSU][2]][5]  &#xD;&#xA;The new PSU as is. But with the screw locations visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Side-by-side view of both PSUs][3]][6]  &#xD;&#xA;And these are both to compare them with each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any positioning-adapter thing-a-ma-jigsies&lt;sup&gt;\[2\]&lt;/sup&gt; that I could buy and put between the new PSU and the back side of the case, so that all screws can fit into holes made for them? Sort of like the thing-a-ma-jig&lt;sup&gt;\[1\]&lt;/sup&gt; the old PSU has, which basically allows to screw that one into chassis screw holes which are somewhere completely different. (If I could, I would buy the lowest-end cheap stuff because I don’t give a damn about most of the cool things that a case can do, so assume the bottom end of the price scale for standard PC cases.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For convenience, I have labelled the two things I don’t know what to call by superscripted \[1\] and \[2\]. Superscripted \[1\] always refers to the metal thing seen in the first picture, distinguishable from the PSU by its darker shade of grey. Superscripted \[2\] refers to some similar thing I do not own yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBqm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOdm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojnam.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOd.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojna.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="a03b5253-e45a-4e5d-94e8-517c236cde4d" CreationDate="2016-09-06T08:14:37.087" UserId="4374" Text="I have SQL Server Express on my Laptop with following configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: HP 240 (F6Q29PA)&#xD;&#xA;Processor:Intel Core I3-3110M CPU@2.4 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;RAM : 2GB&#xD;&#xA;HDD : 500 GB&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run my batch every weekend and it takes about 15 hours to finish. Obviously this is too much for my poor home laptops and they keep burning up. So I am looking to have a more professional machine for it. The aims are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) The machine shouldn't overheat and burn up every two years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) The batch time should come down to 7-8 hours (10 hours is passable too). That way I can run my batch daily instead of just weekends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't intend to do anything else on this machine other than probably some Excel, so I don't have any Graphics Requirement at all. Kindly help me with your suggestions. I will be happy to provide more info if required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="a03b5253-e45a-4e5d-94e8-517c236cde4d" CreationDate="2016-09-06T08:14:37.087" UserId="4374" Text="Help needed for Hardware Upgrade in order to bring the batch time down by 50%" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="a03b5253-e45a-4e5d-94e8-517c236cde4d" CreationDate="2016-09-06T08:14:37.087" UserId="4374" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15882" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="c2ceae46-a19d-44f6-a52c-92d10ac6f18e" CreationDate="2016-09-06T08:57:18.137" UserId="4374" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4374,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;user3467434&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15883" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="b459f23e-c3b2-4217-811f-4842a71e4fbd" CreationDate="2016-09-06T08:57:40.670" UserId="4374" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4374,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;user3467434&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="15892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5685" RevisionGUID="99442966-b644-4ff5-8279-d0fe1b8e2831" CreationDate="2016-09-06T20:10:13.960" UserId="4380" Text="I'm looking to extend wifi into a detached garage 200ft away from my house.  The metal shed is not insulated or climate-controlled, and can get quite HOT during the Florida summers.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a specific Wireless AP capable of operating in these extreme temperatures? Should I look at specialized outdoor hardware, or buy the cheapest AP I can find, and plan on replacing it often?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15893" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5685" RevisionGUID="99442966-b644-4ff5-8279-d0fe1b8e2831" CreationDate="2016-09-06T20:10:13.960" UserId="4380" Text="Best Wireless Access Point for HOT environment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15894" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5685" RevisionGUID="99442966-b644-4ff5-8279-d0fe1b8e2831" CreationDate="2016-09-06T20:10:13.960" UserId="4380" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5687" RevisionGUID="f6cd0670-56e7-4acc-8806-ee15b6b995eb" CreationDate="2016-09-07T12:10:58.753" UserId="1366" Text="There is very important question about buying new GPU to your setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will you upgrade your PC (CPU,MOBO,RAM) in the nearest future ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Answer is to your actual setup but if you will edit your question saying us that you will upgrade your PC in nearest future I will improve my answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GTX 1060 with 3GB VRAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no other option for your CPU. AMD cards are more CPU hungry than nVidia cards so we choose nVidia. There is no sense in investing in other generation cards (GTX 9xx) so you should buy this card or wait for **GTX 1050** which should be even better pair for your CPU. Any other (better cards like GTX 1070 or GTX 1080) will be bottlenecked by your CPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5687" RevisionGUID="8a6ac9d6-33d8-431d-b2eb-0ff116f1f7dc" CreationDate="2016-09-07T12:16:50.080" UserId="1366" Comment="added 370 characters in body" Text="There is very important question about buying new GPU to your setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will you upgrade your PC (CPU,MOBO,RAM) in the nearest future ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Answer is to your actual setup but if you will edit your question saying us that you will upgrade your PC in nearest future I will improve my answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GTX 1060 with 3GB VRAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no other option for your CPU. AMD cards are more CPU hungry than nVidia cards so we choose nVidia. There is no sense in investing in other generation cards (GTX 9xx) so you should buy this card or wait for **GTX 1050** which should be even better pair for your CPU. Any other (better cards like GTX 1070 or GTX 1080) will be bottlenecked by your CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommended models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 3GB - $220 on newegg.com][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB - $210 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Alternative solution:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Look for second hand **GTX960 2GB VRAM** it should cost ~$100-$120 it is card which for sure won't be bottlenecked by your CPU and will be cheaper than GTX 1060.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814126133&amp;cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-126-133-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125906&amp;cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-125-906-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15920" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5671" RevisionGUID="e24260c6-9aaf-4095-afc8-f172851b1b1a" CreationDate="2016-09-08T05:18:44.150" UserId="4346" Comment="Made more descriptive" Text="Here's my current config&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i5 4440 @ 3.1 GHz (Onboard GPU -  Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB Ram&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Running Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bit)&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-CS  Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a casual gamer and am also looking at doing a bit of android dev. I was thinking of purchasing and adding a dedicated GPU to expand on the number of games I could play and also to accelerate the android emulator's performance while developing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking of purchasing a GTX 750 Ti. However the comments on this [amazon page][1] and this [toms hardware thread][2] mention that the following games worked well on this card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Crysis 3 -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Arkham Knight -  2015&#xD;&#xA; - Metro 2033 -  2010&#xD;&#xA; - Batman: Arkham City -  2011&#xD;&#xA; - Need for Speed Rivals -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Battlefield 4 -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Tital Fall -  2014&#xD;&#xA; - BioShock Infinite -  2013&#xD;&#xA; - Watch Dogs -  2014&#xD;&#xA; - Battlefield: Bad Company 2 -  2010&#xD;&#xA; - Call of Duty: Black Ops II -  2012&#xD;&#xA; - Ryse: Son of Rome : 2013&#xD;&#xA; - Batman Arkham Origins : 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed most games were from pre 2013 with a few from 2015. I have been able to play many of them without a dedicated graphics card. Some of the games I've been able to play are Assassin's creed 1, Assassin's creed 2, Batman Arkham Origins, Watch Dogs with ease. All of which were made around the same time as the games on the list above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to test the rest yet, but it did get me thinking as to how much of a difference would it make to add a GTX 750 Ti. I'm not looking at maxed out settings and FPS, just decent gameplay. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Given my onboard graphics seems to function fairly well, are there games I absolutely cannot play without the GTX 750 Ti. (for games till 2015 at mid / low settings with decent FPS)&#xD;&#xA;2. How much of a difference would it make with the android emulator performance.&#xD;&#xA;3. Would the power of my onboard graphics go unutilized in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I haven't stuffed too many questions together, thought of clubing them as they are all related to the same problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/ZOTAC-GeForce-Graphics-Black-Orange/dp/B00IFZ547Q&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2705075/list-games-play-gtx-750ti-ultra-setting.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="ee6e9d1f-cf30-449a-b75e-12c08c44866b" CreationDate="2016-09-08T11:01:12.553" UserId="4391" Text="I need to purchase around 10 tablets or laptops to enable very technically challenged users to open powerpoint presentations and videos that I copy manually onto the device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following restrictions will apply to the device&#xD;&#xA;- no network connectivity allowed&#xD;&#xA;- no copying of content to or from the device via hardware ports&#xD;&#xA;Only I as sysadmin will be able to unlock those restrictions with the device physically with me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device needs to be able to connect to a variety of old and new projectors using HDMI or VGA.&#xD;&#xA;The device needs a screen that the presenter can see &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently considering: &#xD;&#xA;- Android device that has VGA and HDMI ports or adapters for them&#xD;&#xA;- iPad with VGA and HDMI port adapters&#xD;&#xA;- windows laptops running Windows enterprise (10 licenses) so I can use Microsoft Applocker to lock down the entire laptop so only Powerpoint and VLC player can be used&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Firstly what would you recommend from the above options - cost is sensitive here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second are there any better options I should consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15922" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="ee6e9d1f-cf30-449a-b75e-12c08c44866b" CreationDate="2016-09-08T11:01:12.553" UserId="4391" Text="Portable device to show powerpoint and video content that is read only and offline" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15923" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="ee6e9d1f-cf30-449a-b75e-12c08c44866b" CreationDate="2016-09-08T11:01:12.553" UserId="4391" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="fe45acc7-e117-4ce5-98fb-646d3fda58ae" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:20:10.683" UserId="1410" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a 9 bit UART.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support would preferably be on-boar, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15925" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="fe45acc7-e117-4ce5-98fb-646d3fda58ae" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:20:10.683" UserId="1410" Text="Small, cheap processor with 9 bit UART" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15926" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="fe45acc7-e117-4ce5-98fb-646d3fda58ae" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:20:10.683" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;uart&gt;&lt;vending-machine&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5695" RevisionGUID="078cb686-fe64-43a8-8435-309dba2638f6" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:21:38.557" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5696" RevisionGUID="b4872664-2cdd-4669-9c7c-0edc0e8bc903" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:21:38.557" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15929" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="07e49c5c-7deb-405d-8480-4ca49f10b80d" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:26:08.257" UserId="1410" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a 9 bit UART.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support would preferably be on-boar, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15930" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5697" RevisionGUID="8d81a324-3d3f-4a52-b9f7-b3947498d90a" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:26:49.410" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15931" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5698" RevisionGUID="6382568f-399a-4c3c-b8cc-a6b8f123e9b1" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:26:49.410" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15932" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="482f1191-beb1-4374-9dab-7b54bd34b6df" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:51:06.003" UserId="1410" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a 9 bit UART.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support would preferably be on-boar, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="2d468c59-b53c-459e-a3b2-7aabc2c1fa53" CreationDate="2016-09-08T18:06:23.070" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body; edited tags" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a 9 bit UART.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support would preferably be on-boar, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15938" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="2d468c59-b53c-459e-a3b2-7aabc2c1fa53" CreationDate="2016-09-08T18:06:23.070" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15944" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5701" RevisionGUID="e6eab6e8-d93b-44d0-b57a-0b41cf4205eb" CreationDate="2016-09-08T19:05:16.970" UserId="4395" Text="If you are willing to do a bit more work on integration with whatever you want to run, you can try a Parallella board. That gives you a 16 core RISC co processor plus a dual core main processor on a board the size of a credit card. &#xD;&#xA;They use very little energy and are specifically designed to be used in clusters or in parallel (hence the name) applications. &#xD;&#xA;As a bonus, they start at about $100 each and they run Linux.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.parallella.org/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QdqVm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15945" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5702" RevisionGUID="8b70b797-496e-46cc-8fbd-969c8182c606" CreationDate="2016-09-08T20:01:06.077" UserId="4399" Text="I've been using the [Kinesis Freestyle 2 for Mac][1] for several years now. I had he original Freestyle, but wore it out!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Freestyle is unique in that it is a split keyboard with the two halves connected with a cable. It is USB (which I prefer) and has native Mac keys and no number pad. I also like the black color which doesn't show dirt. It's a quiet keyboard with a fairly soft touch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-mac/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5703" RevisionGUID="3e70cace-89bf-41b1-b763-8f20e6747500" CreationDate="2016-09-08T21:17:39.590" UserId="3836" Text="I'm going to argue that the [Dell Latitude E6430 Laptop][1] as refurbished by Newegg represents the *perfect* solution to your problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First and foremost, this machine meets all of your hardware requirements - it has HDMI and VGA outs, and it has the graphical horsepower and resolution to cleanly and clearly display these presentations on both screens simultaneously. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real bonus here is that it comes with Windows 7 Professional, which is is a very special OS for your purposes. Unlike earlier and later versions of Windows, Windows 7 Pro can freely install the Windows XP Mode, which is functionally a VM of Windows XP. With this VM set up and [duplicated as many times as you need][2], you can mirror your display to the projector and have their presentation run in a full-screen VM window, which can be configured to prevent them from accessing any of the hardware ports or networking ports. It is possible to set it up so that only technical users would know how to get out of the virtual machine's window. It's also a fairly cheap and powerful solution, so that's nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834299263&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Notebooks-_-N82E16834299263&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwmMS-BRCm5dn51JLbp1wSJACc61tFcVHEnhCJPNlz54xkykjkBrEksXtXjByx_922bnBVhhoCFgHw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://xpmore.codeplex.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5525" RevisionGUID="916ce136-847a-4b57-8973-944a0192a2b7" CreationDate="2016-09-09T12:17:46.767" UserId="531" Comment="added 203 characters in body" Text="I had a few other suggestions - Kingston was highly recommended, but it wasn't available at the mall I was checking out, and there were a few odd brands I've never seen elsewhere at my local store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with a [Razer][3] [ManO'War][1]. I admit, one of the reasons I got it is aesthetic - it fits my all black rig well ;p. It also seemed to have the right-sized headband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's start with the features I *didn't* mention in my original question (some of which are useless). I'm a bit of a Razer fan so the fact that the headset works with synapse is probably a feature. It supports (software emulated) 7.1 audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has what I'm told are the standard on-headset volume controls with push to silence, and it integrates well with an on screen OS for both.  The headset is retractable, and I'm told sound quality is acceptable. (Considering I used an SM 57 before, I wasn't expecting an *improvement*). Charging is over USB, and the ManO'War comes with a little 'dock' for your transmitter, and a USB charging cable, both of which are the standard 'soft' braided cable Razer uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to lesser audiophile/professional grade headsets. The ManO'War feels light, though the plastic seems sold. Most of the features are pretty standard I'm told. Sound quality is acceptable - it passes my usual quick tests. I'd have liked a *little* more padding on the headband, but that's a personal preference. It seems ok in normal use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can mute the microphone by pressing down on the volume button (which is handy), and that lights up a red light on the microphone tip to let you know that it's muted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In use, it feels barely there. I use it at 'default' no extension and there's no cramp. It sits over my head comfortably, and the ear pieces fit well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to be an odd semi-open back design - I can hear what's happening around me, but I don't notice much leakage when I'm not wearing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well for the distances I need and pairs very quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff I don't like? Chroma seems pointless, unless I get a mirror over my screen like I keep threatening to, I can't really see it. Considering these are wireless, I just turn them off. There is a kind of weird rotation on the ear pieces; they turn 90 degrees one way, not the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ability to check battery level without the synapse configurations application would have been nice, but I run this on windows, and use synapse for other things anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd note these are quite literally on the edge of my budget at RRP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-audio/razer-manowar&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/1wdNb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Razer_Inc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5707" RevisionGUID="4a16db26-6c7c-46f3-baf4-5a52040cb5bb" CreationDate="2016-09-09T13:23:00.590" UserId="84" Text="I just came across a great hybrid (depending on the exact use case): The [Automatic Pro](https://www.automatic.com/pro/) plugs into a vehicles OBD-II port, transmits location updates every 20 seconds when the vehicle is in motion, and draws its power from the car.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it's an &quot;active&quot; tracker, but the $130 purchase price includes &quot;at least&quot; 5 years of 3G data service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's not exactly what was specified: It's somewhat traceable, it requires access to the inside of the vehicle to place, and it would be readily noticed by anybody checking the vehicle's OBD port.  But on the plus side it offers real-time tracking, IFTTT, and other integration and safety features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15965" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5472" RevisionGUID="a93ad495-1813-4763-9f32-062e144e03bc" CreationDate="2016-09-09T14:38:48.667" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5708" RevisionGUID="f80cb144-9395-4cf7-be68-4ce1394d5a36" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:23:24.247" UserId="4415" Text="I want to buy a new laptop to work mainly with image and video processing. I really want to buy a laptop that will make things easier for me (installation of python, opencv, and other libraries) and also I don't want to be limited with RAM or processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a bit of an apple fan, but I know I shouldn't be seduced by the lightweight and other features. I'm aware that for the price of a macbook I could get a PC with more storage, RAM, etc. Also I might be needing to connect arduino o raspberry Pi, and I'm not sure if a macbook (equipped for a wireless world) would do the work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¿Any recommendations on what kind of laptop to get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15968" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5708" RevisionGUID="f80cb144-9395-4cf7-be68-4ce1394d5a36" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:23:24.247" UserId="4415" Text="Laptop to work with image processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15969" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5708" RevisionGUID="f80cb144-9395-4cf7-be68-4ce1394d5a36" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:23:24.247" UserId="4415" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5708" RevisionGUID="902c4f3b-a05c-4cc3-a9bc-18cb84adf000" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:25:51.117" UserId="8" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a new laptop to work mainly with image and video processing. I really want to buy a laptop that will make things easier for me (installation of python, opencv, and other libraries) and also I don't want to be limited in terms of RAM or processing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a bit of an Apple fan, but I know I shouldn't be seduced by the light weight and other features. I'm aware that for the price of a MacBook I could get a PC with more storage, RAM, etc. Also I might be needing to connect an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, and I'm not sure if a MacBook (equipped for a wireless world) would do the work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on what kind of laptop to get?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5709" RevisionGUID="9a588c4a-4af1-42fd-94a1-665d0a2ba3ea" CreationDate="2016-09-10T02:44:04.440" UserId="3836" Text="You have not specified a budget or a technology preference (OpenCL vs CUDA), so I will attempt to run the gamut, with one important inclusion that you did not mention but which I see as fairly important for your purposes: USB C/Thunderbolt 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're running a budget and you need something that's going to make the most of a program stack utilizing OpenCL, I recommend something like the [**Acer Laptop Aspire E5-553G-1986**][1]. This AMD Crossfire machine features the company's most powerful processor currently shipped in the mobile market, coupled with (at LAST) high-speed DDR4 RAM in a dual channel configuration, upgradable to 16gb. It features the dedicated AMD Radeon R8 M445DX GPU combined with the powerful graphics chip on the APU itself, which should provide quite a bit of AMD's noted OpenCL GP-GPU capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side of things, in the high-end range, Intel and Nvidia dominate in professional solutions such as the **[Dell Precision 15 5000 M5510][2]**. Intel's full-power mobile i7 CPU couples with Nvidia's professional Quadro M1000M GPU to deliver what is no doubt one of the more powerful and reliable solutions available on the market. If your program is CUDA-bound, then this is more like the machine you want. If CPU processing power is the main drag, then this too will be your best bet; Intel's i7-6700QM is pretty much unrivaled in the mobile space. This machine is also extremely light - unusual for Dell's robust professional line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to end by touching on the inclusion of Thunderbolt 3/USB C in both of these laptops. Whatever you do, the time may come when you just don't have enough GP-GPU compute resources available to you - or perhaps you end up needing a solution from the company that doesn't feature a GPU in your laptop. In those cases, you can [use this new connection type to add external GPUs to your laptop in order to greatly improve your image processing capability][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315445&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F846N8298&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/3079785/hardware/gigabyte-just-showed-an-egpu-with-thunderboltusb-c-for-easier-laptop-external-graphics.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15978" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5707" RevisionGUID="85f4d464-4f1e-4981-8681-dd82ebb77e43" CreationDate="2016-09-10T13:37:18.567" UserId="84" Comment="added 56 characters in body" Text="I just came across a great hybrid (depending on the exact use case): The [Automatic Pro](https://www.automatic.com/pro/) plugs into a vehicles OBD-II port, transmits location updates every 20 seconds when the vehicle is in motion, and draws its power from the car.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it's an &quot;active&quot; tracker, but the $130 purchase price includes &quot;at least&quot; 5 years of 3G data service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's not exactly what was specified: It's somewhat traceable, it requires access to the inside of the vehicle to place, and it would be readily noticed by anybody checking the vehicle's OBD port ... unless connected and concealed off a splitter cable.  But on the plus side it offers real-time tracking, IFTTT, and other integration and safety features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15979" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5468" RevisionGUID="34898b11-50c3-46fa-9a57-23a8905c43d0" CreationDate="2016-09-10T15:06:11.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15980" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2123" RevisionGUID="ddc51049-6b0f-42ed-afde-161647698e59" CreationDate="2016-09-10T16:09:03.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15982" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="ba168b9b-6894-4de9-abe5-4ac798e3fd70" CreationDate="2016-09-10T19:22:57.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="15991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5713" RevisionGUID="a4615da7-ef7a-4cb0-a56a-203c7bdaf25b" CreationDate="2016-09-11T14:16:23.417" UserId="4424" Text="So I am trying to decide on a laptop which will run a ubuntu apache webserver, which does not break the bank.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using the webserver as a kind of quiz machine with 50 wireless clients connected concurrently answering questions and submitting answers. Nothing heavy like streaming videos, but each user requests is around 10-30 kb, static pages, one question per page, one jpeg. The users could be using the server all at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I hear that RAM is very important over anything else but because I am using it for what I am trying to do, I am making sure that I have enough RAM and a SSD drive. The model I am thinking about Lenovo L460:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://i.stack.imgur.com/VOQO7.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://i.stack.imgur.com/6O7Uj.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the question I want to ask is if the current processor is too weak to handle my project and I should upgrade to the intel core i5 to maximize performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5713" RevisionGUID="a4615da7-ef7a-4cb0-a56a-203c7bdaf25b" CreationDate="2016-09-11T14:16:23.417" UserId="4424" Text="Choice of laptop and processor for webserver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5713" RevisionGUID="a4615da7-ef7a-4cb0-a56a-203c7bdaf25b" CreationDate="2016-09-11T14:16:23.417" UserId="4424" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15994" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5713" RevisionGUID="781925c7-871f-4013-b7da-592d39b06816" CreationDate="2016-09-11T16:39:05.510" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="4a35d3e9-90e3-4a03-9648-da6e299225c8" CreationDate="2016-09-12T03:44:55.167" UserId="4027" Text="&gt; **Summary**: is it possible to get a cheap motherboard that supports an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; AMD CPU, 2 Nvidia GPUs and AHCI for SSDs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hi,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I built a PC 5 years ago with an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an SSD recently but realized that it has problems due to lack of AHCI support on my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an Nvidia 560Ti but recently upgraded to an Nvidia GTX750.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to buy a new budget motherboard. I want one that supports SSD/AHCI, but since I have 2 Nvidia GPUs, I was wondering if it is worth getting a motherboard that supports multiple GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to have a configuration that has two Nvidia GPUs with an AMD CPU? Would this be SLI or CrossFireX? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16001" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="4a35d3e9-90e3-4a03-9648-da6e299225c8" CreationDate="2016-09-12T03:44:55.167" UserId="4027" Text="New Motherboard for SSD &lt;Possible Crossfire&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16002" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="4a35d3e9-90e3-4a03-9648-da6e299225c8" CreationDate="2016-09-12T03:44:55.167" UserId="4027" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="29516539-f3cb-470b-a3fc-8bc6e57ac7cc" CreationDate="2016-09-12T06:32:07.407" UserId="2086" Text=" 1. I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I can use it with my old motherboard right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="29516539-f3cb-470b-a3fc-8bc6e57ac7cc" CreationDate="2016-09-12T06:32:07.407" UserId="2086" Text="recomend me a good CPU to replace my i5 CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="29516539-f3cb-470b-a3fc-8bc6e57ac7cc" CreationDate="2016-09-12T06:32:07.407" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="5d4e778f-1054-4e4c-9daf-e889552a56a5" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:47:59.943" UserId="15" Comment="Improving post formatting." Text="I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: [Skylake microarchitecture][1]. So skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I can use it with my old motherboard right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16010" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="5d4e778f-1054-4e4c-9daf-e889552a56a5" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:47:59.943" UserId="15" Comment="Improving post formatting." Text="Good CPU to replace my i5 CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16011" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="5d4e778f-1054-4e4c-9daf-e889552a56a5" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:47:59.943" Comment="Proposed by 15 approved by -1 edit id of 519" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="021262d3-c7e3-488b-8cbe-aaec9dc82267" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:47:59.943" UserId="8" Comment="Improving post formatting." Text="I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: [Skylake microarchitecture][1]. So skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16013" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="ee647680-5469-4a38-ba67-76949546c36e" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:49:30.483" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 129 characters in body" Text="&gt; **Summary**: is it possible to get a cheap motherboard that supports an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; AMD CPU, 2 Nvidia GPUs and AHCI for SSDs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I built a PC 5 years ago with an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an SSD recently but realized that it has problems due to lack of AHCI support on my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an Nvidia 560Ti but recently upgraded to an Nvidia GTX750.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to buy a new budget motherboard. I want one that supports SSD/AHCI, but since I have 2 Nvidia GPUs, I was wondering if it is worth getting a motherboard that supports multiple GPUs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5718" RevisionGUID="5b4afe69-da56-4128-9dd2-d804b08d0d0f" CreationDate="2016-09-12T12:33:31.067" UserId="4043" Text="You seem to have a misconception regarding what is a &quot;better&quot; processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i3/i5/i7 structuring is not such that all i7 chips will be better than any i5 or i3 chip, they are generalized and should only give you an idea of its general level of power and efficiency for average users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A third-generation i5 2500k will be much more powerful for computationally heavy tasks than the seventh-generation i7 6250, for example. This is because the 2500k is a four-core, overclockable chip designed for good single-threaded performance and was not designed with extremely low power consumption as the 6250 was. The 6250 is also a dual-core mobile optimized processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fact that your CPU has an integrated GPU is irrelevant. You'd do yourself a disservice to specifically seek a CPU without an integrated GPU by drastically reducing the number of options that meet your criteria, let alone leaving you high and dry without video output should your GPU fail for any reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, if performance is what you are looking for you should just buy the i5 or i7 CPU that is at the top of your budget. If you have priorities other than maximum performance, you should seek advice from communities that seek the same goal (power efficiency, specific benchmarks, overclocking, etc). The CPU will have a GPU included. This is not a bad thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5718" RevisionGUID="308dd66b-5a57-4e95-b9bf-cd4528387d2a" CreationDate="2016-09-12T12:39:20.990" UserId="4043" Comment="added 373 characters in body" Text="You seem to have a misconception regarding what is a &quot;better&quot; processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i3/i5/i7 structuring is not such that all i7 chips will be better than any i5 or i3 chip, they are generalized and should only give you an idea of its general level of power and efficiency for average users. Most especially, it is not so easy to compare processors between generations (an i7 2700k and an i7 6770k are two horribly different beasts but they fill the same performance i7 shelf slot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A third-generation i5 2500k will be much more powerful for computationally heavy tasks than the seventh-generation i7 6250, for example. This is because the 2500k is a four-core, overclockable chip designed for good single-threaded performance and was not designed with extremely low power consumption as the 6250 was. The 6250 is also a dual-core mobile optimized processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fact that your CPU has an integrated GPU is irrelevant. You'd do yourself a disservice to specifically seek a CPU without an integrated GPU by drastically reducing the number of options that meet your criteria, let alone leaving you high and dry without video output should your GPU fail for any reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, if performance is what you are looking for you should just buy the i5 or i7 CPU that is at the top of your budget. If you have priorities other than maximum performance, you should seek advice from communities that seek the same goal (power efficiency, specific benchmarks, overclocking, etc). The CPU will have a GPU included. This is not a bad thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a specific recommendation, the 1155 socket accepts Ivy Bridge CPUs (these start with a &quot;3&quot;). Assuming you seek performance, either the i7 3770k, or the lower budget i5 3570k are the options with the best price/performance. If your motherboard does not allow for overclocking you will not see a difference between these CPUs and the non-K variants (i5 3570, i7 3770)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16016" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5718" RevisionGUID="3bf46c48-f4da-40c6-9b75-88f1bd9f27ec" CreationDate="2016-09-12T12:45:45.960" UserId="4043" Comment="added 373 characters in body" Text="You seem to have a misconception regarding what is a &quot;better&quot; processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i3/i5/i7 structuring is not such that all i7 chips will be better than any i5 or i3 chip, they are generalized and should only give you an idea of its general level of power and efficiency for average users. Most especially, it is not so easy to compare processors between generations (an i7 2700k and an i7 6770k are two horribly different beasts but they fill the same performance i7 shelf slot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A third-generation i5 2500k will be much more powerful for computationally heavy tasks than the seventh-generation i7 6250, for example. This is because the 2500k is a four-core, overclockable chip designed for good single-threaded performance and was not designed with extremely low power consumption as the 6250 was. The 6250 is also a dual-core mobile optimized processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fact that your CPU has an integrated GPU is irrelevant. You'd do yourself a disservice to specifically seek a CPU without an integrated GPU by drastically reducing the number of options that meet your criteria, let alone leaving you high and dry without video output should your GPU fail for any reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, if performance is what you are looking for you should just buy the i5 or i7 CPU that is at the top of your budget. If you have priorities other than maximum performance, you should seek advice from communities that seek the same goal (power efficiency, specific benchmarks, overclocking, etc). The CPU will have a GPU included. This is not a bad thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a specific recommendation, the 1155 socket accepts Ivy Bridge CPUs (these start with a &quot;3&quot;). Assuming you seek performance, either the i7 3770k, or the lower budget i5 3570k are the options with the best price/performance. If your motherboard does not allow for overclocking you will not see a difference between these CPUs and the less expensive non-K variants (i5 3570, i7 3770).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please keep in mind that upgrading your processor could very easily not change a single perceptible thing about your computer. You need to determine what your bottleneck actually is - for most people it is more often the amount of RAM installed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="8d94067a-66ea-4d24-b898-e40156783874" CreationDate="2016-09-12T15:35:06.027" UserId="4027" Comment="added 287 characters in body" Text="&gt; **Summary**: is it possible to get a cheap motherboard that supports an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; AMD CPU, 2 Nvidia GPUs and AHCI for SSDs?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; **UPDATE**: Turns out the SSD works with the old setup (thanks,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; @Journeyman). I now have the SSD along with the newer Nvidia on my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; system. I have a spare Nvidia 560 Ti. The question is now: Is it&#xD;&#xA;&gt; possible and worth getting a new motherboard to have a dual-GPU setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I built a PC 5 years ago with an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an SSD recently but realized that it has problems due to lack of AHCI support on my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an Nvidia 560Ti but recently upgraded to an Nvidia GTX750.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to buy a new budget motherboard. I want one that supports SSD/AHCI, but since I have 2 Nvidia GPUs, I was wondering if it is worth getting a motherboard that supports multiple GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5715" RevisionGUID="37a3c1e7-cf6a-4aa3-a312-0fcc7a2b99bc" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:24:55.277" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 101 characters in body" Text="&gt; **Summary**: is it possible to get a cheap motherboard that supports an&#xD;&#xA;&gt; AMD CPU, 2 Nvidia GPUs and AHCI for SSDs?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; **UPDATE**: Turns out the SSD works with the old setup (thanks,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; @Journeyman). I now have the SSD along with the newer Nvidia on my&#xD;&#xA;&gt; system. I have a spare Nvidia 560 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I built a PC 5 years ago with an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an SSD recently but realized that it has problems due to lack of AHCI support on my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had an Nvidia 560Ti but recently upgraded to an Nvidia GTX750.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to buy a new budget motherboard. I want one that supports SSD/AHCI, but since I have 2 Nvidia GPUs, I was wondering if it is worth getting a motherboard that supports multiple GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5721" RevisionGUID="74e07867-5717-456d-bea5-c580edd91af3" CreationDate="2016-09-12T19:09:22.633" UserId="4431" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Among the offers I found two similar ones: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-372 with Pentium 4405 and a LED IPS matrix, extra USB-C and USB 3.0 port&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-371 with i3-5005U and a LED matrix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latter of them is 8.2% more expensive than the former, i.e. 150 PLN.&#xD;&#xA;Is the i3 processor worth the extra money in these case? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a benchmark showing that these are fairly on-par performance-wise, but benchmarks are benchmarks: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-4405U-vs-Intel-Core-i3-5005U/m54474vsm24957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16028" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5721" RevisionGUID="74e07867-5717-456d-bea5-c580edd91af3" CreationDate="2016-09-12T19:09:22.633" UserId="4431" Text="Intel Pentium P4405 vs Intel Core i3-5005U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16029" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5721" RevisionGUID="74e07867-5717-456d-bea5-c580edd91af3" CreationDate="2016-09-12T19:09:22.633" UserId="4431" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5723" RevisionGUID="67109c12-7dd4-4749-8156-da94ad695d72" CreationDate="2016-09-13T00:01:05.100" UserId="1329" Text="&gt; ECS H61H2-M12 1.0 Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug&#xD;&#xA;&gt; there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No you got it all wrong, your attitude is… well…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, when I put *&quot;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&quot;* into my favorite Internet search engine I get results like [this][1] stating that the motherboard has an LGA1155 socket and an H61 chipset¹, hence H61 in the name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*&quot;Skylake is not an option&quot;* because of your limited knowledge about technology and interpretation (mis-)lead by made up and ever changing marketing terms, **but instead it's the complete wrong socket!** You are stuck with SandyBridge or IvyBridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- What's the actual name of your i5 CPU? Not all of them are quad cores on the desktop, I found the 3470T which is a dual core with 4 threads.&#xD;&#xA;- Does it make sense to upgrade from one CPU with the same amount of cores within the same generation? Generally not if you're looking for 50 to 100% and beyond performance increases.&#xD;&#xA;- You'd rather trade the GPU part on the CPU for more cores? That's unlikely on a board designed for *APUs* with a matching socket. There are enthusiast and server platforms with different sockets (required for more PCIe lanes, wiring to connect more RAM modules, etc.) though, that don't include GPUs on the CPU package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The top processor you can get for the LGA1155 socket is the  2700K with 95W or 3770K with 77W TDP (more TDP doesn't have to imply it's better or vice versa). Why do I mention TDP? When you say you can't change the motherboard for some reasons I wonder if the enclosure was designed to accommodate beefier graphics cards and CPUs. You forgot other important things in your question so you may not have considered TDP limitations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Launched with Sandy Bridge, your processor might be a Sandy Bridge CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ecsusa.com/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?CategoryID=1&amp;DetailID=1289&amp;DetailName=Feature&amp;MenuID=24&amp;LanID=11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16035" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4287" RevisionGUID="4a51a02a-7f12-421d-a433-39691bde8cd2" CreationDate="2016-09-13T02:46:18.030" UserId="4435" Comment="ECC requires motherboard and RAM support in addition to the Xeon processor" Text="Given that compiling is a thread-heavy job, your user is best off with the i7 that most cheaply gets them the most threads. Given that all i7 CPUs on the 1150 socket feature 8 threads, that means simply getting them the cheapest i7 you can put in that socket, which would likely be the Intel Core i7-4770S or Intel Core i7-4790.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, Xeon processors are extremely similar to i7 CPUs and fit on this socket. In addition, they support ECC RAM, which is a feature many compiling rigs benefit from due to the high memory usage and long compile times they can undergo. In addition, some Xeons, like the Intel Xeon E3-1275 V3, currently offer higher performance and lower cost than some of those i7s previously mentioned, and would thus be a better fit. Keep in mind to utilize the ECC feature of Xeon processors, the motherboard and RAM must also support ECC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon.co.uk had the lowest prices I could find on these processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16036" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4287" RevisionGUID="4a51a02a-7f12-421d-a433-39691bde8cd2" CreationDate="2016-09-13T02:46:18.030" Comment="Proposed by 4435 approved by 3836 edit id of 520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16040" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="1c4a67ca-850f-43f3-9577-ed5a09ea5835" CreationDate="2016-09-13T04:40:36.347" UserId="2086" Comment="added 346 characters in body" Text="I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: [Skylake microarchitecture][1]. So skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's sucks because when I play overwatch I do not get 60 fps. Also the CPU is maxed out at 100%. I also do recording. This is my current CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320&#xD;&#xA;32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16041" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="4f2201ee-7c2a-409b-b8cc-af4682202935" CreationDate="2016-09-13T04:52:04.997" UserId="2086" Comment="added 213 characters in body" Text="I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: [Skylake microarchitecture][1]. So skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's sucks because when I play overwatch I do not get 60 fps. Also the CPU is maxed out at 100%. I also do recording. This is my current CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320&#xD;&#xA;32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some CPU comes with GPU already on the same slot. I have no idea what it is for given that I already have a good GPU on my main board. So if that extra GPU on CPU cost more money I would rather a GPU less CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my belarc advisor result&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System Windows 10 Professional (x64) Version 1511 (build 10586.545)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 8/7/2016 10:53:51 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Servicing Branch: Current Branch for Business (CBB)&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported)&#xD;&#xA;    System Model ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;    Processor a 3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320&#xD;&#xA;    32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded&#xD;&#xA;    Main Circuit Board b Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 400 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011&#xD;&#xA;    Drives 1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    510.09 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3&#xD;&#xA;    ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Modules c,d 8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'A1_DIMM1' has 4096 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'A1_DIMM3' has 4096 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Local Drive Volumes&#xD;&#xA;    				&#xD;&#xA;    c: (NTFS on drive 1) * 	255.27 GB 	32.86 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    d: (NTFS on drive 0) 	105 MB 	31 MB free 		&#xD;&#xA;    e: (NTFS on drive 2) 	500.11 GB 	382.16 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    f: (NTFS on drive 0) 	209 MB 	136 MB free 		&#xD;&#xA;    g: (NTFS on drive 0) 	265.19 GB 	64.00 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    h: (NTFS on drive 0) 	734.70 GB 	30.90 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    * Operating System is installed on c:&#xD;&#xA;    † Encrypted volume.&#xD;&#xA;    Network Drives None detected" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5725" RevisionGUID="328820ea-34e3-4793-8ad3-27b6fafd794e" CreationDate="2016-09-13T05:41:50.393" UserId="3836" Text="I'm going to make the assumption that you will be gaming, because you have a GTX 1060 and that is generally what people with that GPU want to do. If that is true, then it is probably the case that a new CPU would help you out. However, I am going to depart from the standard recommendation of &quot;get another i5 that's faster&quot; because your chipset can't overclock it (which is where much of the value of the i5 line lies for gamers), and in any case newer games are taking advantage of more than 4 cores now. For that reason, I recommend you get the **Intel Xeon E3-1290 v2** CPU. This CPU is [the most powerful CPU you can put on your socket][1], with a stock speed of 3.7ghz and a turbo boost up to 4.1ghz. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Xeon/TYPE-Xeon%20E3-1200%20v2.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5726" RevisionGUID="626e276c-2f7c-4d32-96e5-24c876de2ba5" CreationDate="2016-09-13T05:53:26.997" UserId="3836" Text="You need the i3-5005U. Its graphics power is the main reason. If/when you are consuming GPU-accelerated web content or converting videos, the extra GPU horsepower will make all the difference and is worth the extra cost alone. Additionally, the i3 has a little extra cache, which might come in especially handy for virtualization." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16044" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5721" RevisionGUID="78e1666b-3928-4f72-baee-f00fad86402b" CreationDate="2016-09-13T07:39:12.907" UserId="4431" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Among the offers I found two similar ones: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-372 with Pentium 4405 and a LED IPS matrix, extra USB-C and USB 3.0 port&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-371 with i3-5005U and a LED matrix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latter of them is 8.2% more expensive than the former, i.e. 150 PLN.&#xD;&#xA;Is the i3 processor worth the extra money in these case? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a benchmark showing that these are fairly on-par performance-wise, but benchmarks are benchmarks: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-4405U-vs-Intel-Core-i3-5005U/m54474vsm24957&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5721" RevisionGUID="8be63936-30fa-4abd-a15f-035d389f6fbd" CreationDate="2016-09-13T07:47:46.917" UserId="4431" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Among the offers I found two similar ones: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-372 with Pentium 4405 and a LED IPS matrix, extra USB-C and USB 3.0 port&#xD;&#xA;* Acer V3-371 with i3-5005U and a LED matrix&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latter of them is 8.2% more expensive than the former, i.e. 150 PLN.&#xD;&#xA;Is the i3 processor worth the extra money in these case? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a benchmark showing that Pentium 4405 is 14% faster than i3 (CPU-wise), but benchmarks are benchmarks: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-4405U-vs-Intel-Core-i3-5005U/m54474vsm24957&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="fe537b69-769a-4fd2-bb4e-9ffcdeb0a417" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:12:08.853" UserId="4431" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm left with three offers, all with matte screens, sorted by price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1700PLN: Lenovo ThinkPad E450, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G&#xD;&#xA;* 1950PLN: Acer V3-371, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G&#xD;&#xA;* 2150PLN: Lenovo IdeaPad 500s-13, LED IPS 1920x1080, i3-6100U, SSD 240G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that 120G of SSD would be plenty for the user. Battery life is very important. Please keep in mind that the earnings in Poland are much lower than in the western countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are the more expensive options worth the extra cost?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="fe537b69-769a-4fd2-bb4e-9ffcdeb0a417" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:12:08.853" UserId="4431" Text="Lenovo Thinkpad E450 vs IdeaPad 500s-13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="fe537b69-769a-4fd2-bb4e-9ffcdeb0a417" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:12:08.853" UserId="4431" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16050" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="f0c220a3-fdd9-40b3-98a9-499f5d38d4fc" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:59:16.130" UserId="4431" Comment="edited title" Text="Lenovo Thinkpad E450 vs Acer V3-371 vs IdeaPad 500s-13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16059" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5702" RevisionGUID="def29e2a-cee6-49e7-b82b-8214dce4b31c" CreationDate="2016-09-13T17:49:48.457" UserId="4399" Comment="fixed typo" Text="I've been using the [Kinesis Freestyle 2 for Mac][1] for several years now. I had the original Freestyle, but wore it out!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Freestyle is unique in that it is a split keyboard with the two halves connected with a cable. It is USB (which I prefer) and has native Mac keys and no number pad. I also like the black color which doesn't show dirt. It's a quiet keyboard with a fairly soft touch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-mac/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16061" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2747" RevisionGUID="117820bb-c251-403b-9de9-d76b92e5a515" CreationDate="2016-09-14T01:51:54.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="2a658a68-1c1f-4ebc-be22-0e4182be4765" CreationDate="2016-09-14T05:01:32.900" UserId="4445" Text="I can not seem to find a motherboard that is compatible with all my parts without going over $80. Here are my parts: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/4pPL9W&#xD;&#xA;i need it to have at least two sata 6/gbs connectors, support ddr3 memory, and it needs to be socket 1155. usb 3.0 front headers would also be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;If you know a motherboard that would work for me any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16067" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="2a658a68-1c1f-4ebc-be22-0e4182be4765" CreationDate="2016-09-14T05:01:32.900" UserId="4445" Text="need compatible motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16068" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="2a658a68-1c1f-4ebc-be22-0e4182be4765" CreationDate="2016-09-14T05:01:32.900" UserId="4445" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16071" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="8be5560b-b630-418c-995a-ae4cad8fcc1f" CreationDate="2016-09-14T12:26:17.233" UserId="57" Comment="bring information into question" Text="I can not seem to find a motherboard that is compatible with all my parts without going over $80. Here are my [parts](http://pcpartpicker.com/list/4pPL9W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;- EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a motherboard that supports the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least two sata 6/gbs connectors&#xD;&#xA; - Support for ddr3 memory &#xD;&#xA; - Socket 1155&#xD;&#xA; - usb 3.0 front headers would also be preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know a motherboard that would work for me any help would be greatly appreciated. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5733" RevisionGUID="cd780088-e6b6-4fa0-b0ec-37d7f626346a" CreationDate="2016-09-14T12:57:37.323" UserId="4446" Text="Are there switches which have a direct connection between two ports (e.g. port 1 and 2) when the power is not plugged in? I would like those two ports linked as if there was a direct connection with a cable instead of a (switched off) switch in between. As soon as the power is plugged in, the switch should operate as usual.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any? Is it probably a common behavior of some models? Is there a name for that feature?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5733" RevisionGUID="cd780088-e6b6-4fa0-b0ec-37d7f626346a" CreationDate="2016-09-14T12:57:37.323" UserId="4446" Text="Are there switches with a direct connection between two ports when the power is off?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5733" RevisionGUID="cd780088-e6b6-4fa0-b0ec-37d7f626346a" CreationDate="2016-09-14T12:57:37.323" UserId="4446" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16075" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="771b7a93-7d39-4140-8669-6dae64f8c686" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:12:52.000" UserId="4136" Comment="Overhauled question." Text="I'm searching for a power management board for powering the portable NAS from my other question, which needs 12V-24V and at most 15W, much less on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* output to computer: 15W, voltage either regulated to something between 12V and 24V or completely unregulated (so I can add my own voltage control without doubling the inefficiencies)&#xD;&#xA;* input from wall power: at least 30W so it can charge at a decent speed, don't care about voltage, the one for which the power supplies are cheapest&#xD;&#xA;* input/output: li-ion battery charging/discharging. &#xD;&#xA;* communication channel which I can monitor so I can do a graceful shutdown before the batteries run empty. Not picky about the interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And would ideally also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* connect to individual 18650 cells in different configurations. Probably 4 or 5 cells in series would need the least voltage transformation and would thus be most efficient, but if that makes the charger too expensive then I'd rather have some more cells in total. If there is a cheaper alternative to 18650 cells then that's fine too as long it's not too large (I like how I can arrange individual cells in a pattern which fits my enclosure)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16076" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="771b7a93-7d39-4140-8669-6dae64f8c686" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:12:52.000" UserId="4136" Comment="Overhauled question." Text="Uninterruptible power management board for Computer, 15W output, Li-ion battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16077" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="771b7a93-7d39-4140-8669-6dae64f8c686" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:12:52.000" UserId="4136" Comment="Overhauled question." Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16078" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="918659fb-cd6a-4395-95a4-862e674d1bb6" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:19:22.920" UserId="4136" Comment="Overhauled question." Text="I'm searching for a power management board for powering the portable NAS from my other question, which needs 12V-24V and at most 15W, much less on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Required**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* output to computer: 15W, voltage either regulated to something between 12V and 24V or completely unregulated (so I can add my own voltage control without doubling the inefficiencies)&#xD;&#xA;* input from wall power: at least 30W so it can charge at a decent speed, don't care about voltage, the one for which the power supplies are cheapest&#xD;&#xA;* input/output: li-ion battery charging/discharging. &#xD;&#xA;* communication channel which I can monitor so I can do a graceful shutdown before the batteries run empty. Not picky about the interface. A standard one is better of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optional:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* connect to individual 18650 cells in different configurations. Probably 4 or 5 cells in series would need the least voltage transformation and would thus be most efficient, but if that makes the charger too expensive then I'd rather have some more cells in total. If there is a cheaper alternative to 18650 cells then that's fine too as long it's not too large (I like how I can arrange individual cells in a pattern which fits my enclosure)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16079" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="ebf2090f-05af-4b81-b6e5-d96415c10f5e" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:20:34.470" UserId="4136" Comment="41" />
  <row Id="16080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5505" RevisionGUID="4a0ee935-e378-4ed2-9554-2aebbe2c9019" CreationDate="2016-09-14T14:49:40.443" UserId="540" Comment="added 187 characters in body" Text="My suggestion is the [Corsair VOID](http://www.corsair.com/en/void-wireless-dolby-7-1-gaming-headset) headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Pros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The earcups are a departure from the ubiquitous circular/oval shapes - see the images in the link above. I find it to be an almost perfect fit around the ear without extra space. It's approx 70mm along the longer diagonal. They are circumaural (over-ear/closed cups).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is very well padded along the headband and on the earcups, with a cloth/mesh covering. They seem fairly large, where I find most other headphones to be too tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic boom is long and flexible. Many other headsets I've tried have the mic a fair distance from the mouth (shorter, maybe straight only), which is a problem for people who speak softly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mic seems to be directional and does a decent job of avoiding most keyboard noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;The biggest issue would probably be the CUE software - it has a habit of halving volumes of other programs over time until they hit 0. But the software doesn't really add much value unless you really want to use the macros or lighting controls - if you just want basic audio in/out, you won't need it, as it appears to use standard USB audio drivers.&lt;/s&gt; This seems to be fixed as of v 2.x.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be a bit heavy for extended listening, weighing in at 375g on the wireless model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sits well on the head when looking straight ahead, but can be loose/heavy enough to slip if looking straight down while moving your head.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sound quality, as always, is subjective. I find it perfectly fine for listening to music, and I've heard no complaints about the mic quality from others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are wired and wireless options available. I'm currently using the wireless one, which has decent range with no detectable quality loss or stuttering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qHGPv.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16084" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="3938" RevisionGUID="55afaafb-917a-4c7f-808b-d6a3683c9196" CreationDate="2016-09-14T16:57:40.750" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5735" RevisionGUID="05c07c08-1a6e-4fff-8994-762cb8d50682" CreationDate="2016-09-14T21:15:23.460" UserId="3836" Text="This **[Intel DH77SL-50K][1]** ought to do it. Does everything you ask for and costs $50 on Ebay. Work for you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-DH77SL-50K-LGA1155-Intel-Z77-Express-chipset-ATX-desktop-board-Bios-0097-/291871880254?hash=item43f4eb743e:g:iWwAAOSwiO9Xiofl" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5735" RevisionGUID="7a2171c6-484c-4b9e-9306-8dc8b05b1de1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T21:32:24.907" UserId="155" Comment="removed question" Text="This **[Intel DH77SL-50K][1]** ought to do it. Does everything you ask for and costs $50 on Ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-DH77SL-50K-LGA1155-Intel-Z77-Express-chipset-ATX-desktop-board-Bios-0097-/291871880254?hash=item43f4eb743e:g:iWwAAOSwiO9Xiofl" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16097" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="2515ee3c-edb1-4754-8c19-c4fca23e6f86" CreationDate="2016-09-14T22:43:28.967" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a device to create a &quot;personal zone&quot; to prevent other from hearing what I say. E.g., if I seat in an open space office and give a phone call, I don't want other people to hear me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Muzo](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/muzo-personal-zone-creator-w-noise-blocking-tech-sound-sleep#/), which has a &quot;Secret mode to protect speech privacy by Sound Masking&quot;, but the product isn't available yet (expected release date: spring 2017) and [some people](https://www.reddit.com/r/shittykickstarters/comments/4p67v0/muzo_your_personal_zone_creator_wtf_is_this_even/) weren't so optimistic about it on reddit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [stenomasks](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/479/40), but there are quite uncomfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16098" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="2515ee3c-edb1-4754-8c19-c4fca23e6f86" CreationDate="2016-09-14T22:43:28.967" UserId="40" Text="Device to create a &quot;personal acoustic zone&quot; to prevent other from hearing what I say" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16099" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="2515ee3c-edb1-4754-8c19-c4fca23e6f86" CreationDate="2016-09-14T22:43:28.967" UserId="40" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5735" RevisionGUID="399f6a10-477a-4841-a922-59f538cfaf10" CreationDate="2016-09-15T02:02:49.730" UserId="3836" Comment="Replaced question to thwart personality fascists." Text="This **[Intel DH77SL-50K][1]** ought to do it. Does everything you ask for and costs $50 on Ebay. Work for you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-DH77SL-50K-LGA1155-Intel-Z77-Express-chipset-ATX-desktop-board-Bios-0097-/291871880254?hash=item43f4eb743e:g:iWwAAOSwiO9Xiofl" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="5406061b-0e92-4e5e-95ea-a18302d14a0f" CreationDate="2016-09-15T03:24:46.850" UserId="40" Comment="added 307 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a device to create a &quot;personal zone&quot; to prevent other from hearing what I say. E.g., if I seat in an open space office and give a phone call, I don't want other people to hear me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Muzo](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/muzo-personal-zone-creator-w-noise-blocking-tech-sound-sleep#/), which has a &quot;Secret mode to protect speech privacy by Sound Masking&quot;, but the product isn't available yet (expected release date: spring 2017) and [some people](https://www.reddit.com/r/shittykickstarters/comments/4p67v0/muzo_your_personal_zone_creator_wtf_is_this_even/) weren't so optimistic about it on reddit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [stenomasks](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/479/40), but there are quite uncomfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this Stack Exchange website focuses on electronic devices, if you have some ideas that doesn't involve electronic devices, you're welcome to share them on this question posted on Home Improvement: [Isolating a workstation located in an open space office](http://diy.stackexchange.com/q/99326/6573).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5668" RevisionGUID="abb11d66-e117-4162-9b17-92293cfe4030" CreationDate="2016-09-15T10:15:08.367" UserId="4136" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="Mini-Box OpenUPS does the job but is much too expensive at $150 (Amazon Germany - $120 directly from the manufacturer). I won't accept this answer because I think something much cheaper should exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does everything asked for in the question, plus balancing up to 6S and some other battery chemistries too and output is not just in the right range, but even configurable in a larger range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product page [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mini-box.com/OpenUPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5718" RevisionGUID="b87da42d-9b53-4831-9ee2-05a3588af22f" CreationDate="2016-09-15T16:11:47.757" UserId="4043" Comment="added 739 characters in body" Text="You seem to have a misconception regarding what is a &quot;better&quot; processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i3/i5/i7 structuring is not such that all i7 chips will be better than any i5 or i3 chip, they are generalized and should only give you an idea of its general level of power and efficiency for average users. Most especially, it is not so easy to compare processors between generations (an i7 2700k and an i7 6770k are two horribly different beasts but they fill the same performance i7 shelf slot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A third-generation i5 2500k will be much more powerful for computationally heavy tasks than the seventh-generation i7 6250, for example. This is because the 2500k is a four-core, overclockable chip designed for good single-threaded performance and was not designed with extremely low power consumption as the 6250 was. The 6250 is also a dual-core mobile optimized processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fact that your CPU has an integrated GPU is irrelevant. You'd do yourself a disservice to specifically seek a CPU without an integrated GPU by drastically reducing the number of options that meet your criteria, let alone leaving you high and dry without video output should your GPU fail for any reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, if performance is what you are looking for you should just buy the i5 or i7 CPU that is at the top of your budget. If you have priorities other than maximum performance, you should seek advice from communities that seek the same goal (power efficiency, specific benchmarks, overclocking, etc). The CPU will have a GPU included. This is not a bad thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a specific recommendation, the 1155 socket accepts Ivy Bridge CPUs (these start with a &quot;3&quot;). Assuming you seek performance, either the i7 3770k, or the lower budget i5 3570k are the options with the best price/performance. If your motherboard does not allow for overclocking you will not see a difference between these CPUs and the less expensive non-K variants (i5 3570, i7 3770).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please keep in mind that upgrading your processor could very easily not change a single perceptible thing about your computer. You need to determine what your bottleneck actually is - for most people it is more often the amount of RAM installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: From looking at your comments throughout this question, it is my personal opinion that you are not exactly sure where your priorities are. Specifically seeking a Xeon because it doesn't include a GPU without understanding what the Xeon was designed for doesn't make sense. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being fair, you haven't explained **what** the machine is supposed to do. Are you doing heavy scientific computation on this machine? Are you running a server? We can only guess you're gaming on it because you have a GTX 1060 and that's a great budget gaming card. For gaming there is absolutely **zero** reason to purchase a Xeon over a similarly priced Core i-series processor and doing so may actually be detrimental to performance or your wallet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="17a61f5f-965a-4936-b977-fbcd0e2b3e1b" CreationDate="2016-09-15T16:43:25.640" UserId="4460" Text="Hi guys I have seen in many shops in Chennai, India and most popular online shopping portals in India, but I am not able to find a tempered glass for Moto X Play which covers complete display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the problem?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the tempered glass I have seen covers only part of the entire screen. There is 2-3 cm uncovered space in left and right sides of the screen. why is it there is no tempered glass for Moto X Play that covers the complete display or is there any tempered glass that can cover complete display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16133" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="17a61f5f-965a-4936-b977-fbcd0e2b3e1b" CreationDate="2016-09-15T16:43:25.640" UserId="4460" Text="Moto X Play tempered glass does not cover display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16134" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="17a61f5f-965a-4936-b977-fbcd0e2b3e1b" CreationDate="2016-09-15T16:43:25.640" UserId="4460" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16135" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5747" RevisionGUID="eca01827-3d71-4742-b20a-70d7d5edebf4" CreationDate="2016-09-15T17:18:02.043" UserId="4462" Text="I'm a software developer by trade so I type a lot for extended periods. For the past 3 years i've been using the apple full sized aluminum keyboard for both work and home use. Two major positives stand out to me about this keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Precision &amp; shallow key depth.** I love the feel of the apple keys - they inspire a sense of precision when I type. The tactile feel is great and coupled with the shallow key depth it allows me to type at a rapid rate while gliding across the keyboard with ease.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Slim profile.** Another thing I really enjoy about the apple keyboard is how thin and flat it rests on the desk. It wasn't until i tried a mechanical keyboard that i learned to appreciate this. The thin profile allows me to rest my palms on the desk while keeping my hands/wrist/forearms in straight alignment. A thicker mechanical keyboard requires my hands to tilt upward causing undue stress. A palm wrest seems to be a necessity but shockingly very few mechanical keyboards come with one integrated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought i’d give mechanical keyboards a try so i picked up a corsair k70. I’m really struggling with the bulk of this keyboard. I find it requires my hands to angle up too much. Also the long key depth (4mm) seems unnecessarily long. After using it for about a month now I find I am still unable to type as fast as with the thinner keyboard and the k70 still causes some soreness and uncomforted after extended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any mechanical keyboards that have good integrated palm wrests that would offer a similar hand/wrist/forearm alignment to the apple aluminum keyboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16136" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5747" RevisionGUID="eca01827-3d71-4742-b20a-70d7d5edebf4" CreationDate="2016-09-15T17:18:02.043" UserId="4462" Text="Are mechanical keyboards too high/bulky for ergonomic typing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16137" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5747" RevisionGUID="eca01827-3d71-4742-b20a-70d7d5edebf4" CreationDate="2016-09-15T17:18:02.043" UserId="4462" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16139" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="17e429bf-dafa-4985-b1e6-a718f5ec78ce" CreationDate="2016-09-15T18:42:09.860" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16140" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="22c32213-9056-47b4-9beb-dc51b945ed38" CreationDate="2016-09-15T18:42:37.530" UserId="4461" Comment="correction in title, added complete before display" Text="Moto X Play tempered glass does not cover the complete display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16141" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="22c32213-9056-47b4-9beb-dc51b945ed38" CreationDate="2016-09-15T18:42:37.530" Comment="Proposed by 4461 approved by 60, 8 edit id of 521" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="2d285844-83a8-4715-af71-0e532f674e28" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:03:20.657" UserId="3836" Comment="Edited to remove fascist anti-personality mod editing. Seriously guys." Text="I thought there wasn't such a thing, but **[there is][1]**: GeChic 2501H 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Portable Monitor with HDMI, VGA Inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record, this was solved in a single search on Amazon with the search term &quot;portable monitors,&quot; so I have not done the leg work of refining the cheapest or best possible solution. Certainly this one is quite expensive, but at least the reviews for it are good. If I needed what you needed, I'd probably buy it (well really, I'd probably make my own by getting a DC-powered LCD display with HDMI in and stripping it out of its case, then wrapping it in a disgusting amount of electrical tape, because screw aesthetics, but that's me).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018DXABEU/?tag=stackoverfl08-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16143" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="be27605e-3a54-4622-8d12-50f55e519553" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:08:13.460" UserId="4209" Comment="I fixed a lot of grammatical issues and made the question a recommendation specific question." Text="I have shopped all over Chennai, India and the most popular online shopping portals in India, but I am not able to find a tempered glass for Moto X Play which covers the complete display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the tempered glass products I have looked at only covers a part of the screen. 2-3 cm uncovered areas are left in the left and right sides of the screen. I'm looking for a tempered glass covering for Moto X Play that covers the complete display. Does anyone have a good recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16144" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="be27605e-3a54-4622-8d12-50f55e519553" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:08:13.460" UserId="4209" Comment="I fixed a lot of grammatical issues and made the question a recommendation specific question." Text="What tempered glass will cover the Moto X Play fully?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16145" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="be27605e-3a54-4622-8d12-50f55e519553" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:08:13.460" Comment="Proposed by 4209 approved by 60, 3836 edit id of 522" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5749" RevisionGUID="53f9e9af-aeba-4a03-9274-4d1749df8a9d" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:44:04.717" UserId="3836" Text="This is a complicated question to answer, because while you are ostensibly looking for a mechanical keyboard, you are comparing them unfavorably with a non-mechanical keyboard whose best characteristics for you are essentially incompatible with the concept of a mechanical keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, yes, there *are* mechanical keyboards with built in palm rests. They aren't slim, and they don't have shallow key depth - for that you'd want something with scissor-switches, like the [SIIG JK-US0412-S1 USB Slim Aluminum Keyboard with Hub][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Mechanical keyboard with integrated rest I recommend for you is the **[ROCCAT Ryos TKL Pro USB Illuminated Mechanical Gaming Keyboard][2]**. There are [cheaper][3] [Chinese keyboards][4] with &quot;mechanical&quot; switches and palm rests, but they look about as attractive as their QA process probably was, so the Ryos lineup it is. Of that lineup, I think Cherry MX Black switch-based models are your best bet; their 60g linear actuation force is near the 65g linear actuation of the Apple Aluminum you've been using. Keep in mind that with Cherry switches, few to none of them actually require you to travel all the way to the bottom of the switch in order to actuate; most actuate somewhere about halfway down, so you don't have to slam the keys or travel the complete distance to type the character. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823191007&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1UH4N13163&amp;cm_re=roccat_ryos-_-23-436-011-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4U71RT5082&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA26R4N34031" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16151" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="b99959bc-1652-4d65-a635-0a27b91dfec3" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:59:45.250" UserId="4464" Text="A musician and a regular traveller between North America (110V for power outlets) and England (220V), my aunt needs an excellent speaker daily to listen to her classical music and opera on her laptop, because the included microphones have poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So can you please suggest other solutions for my aunt, besides:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. bringing her speakers at 110V (that she uses now and purchased in the US) and heavy, inconvenient [Voltage Transformer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power_conversion) every time that she travels?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. USB speakers, because they suffer from poor sound quality? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16152" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="b99959bc-1652-4d65-a635-0a27b91dfec3" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:59:45.250" UserId="4464" Text="What suits a frequent traveller needing excellent speakers, besides voltage transformers or USB speakers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16153" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="b99959bc-1652-4d65-a635-0a27b91dfec3" CreationDate="2016-09-15T19:59:45.250" UserId="4464" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16158" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="bf3c59bb-673a-4426-9f29-c3853dc64db1" CreationDate="2016-09-15T20:45:20.737" UserId="60" Comment="added 152 characters in body" Text="As a musician and a regular traveler between North America (110V for power outlets) and England (220V), my aunt needs an excellent speaker to listen to her classical music and opera on her laptop. The laptop's built in speakers have poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aunt has tried taking her speakers (that she uses now and purchased in the US) and a [Voltage Transformer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power_conversion) but it is too inconvenient and bulky. She has also tried purchasing USB speakers, but they suffer from poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aunt is looking for a speaker system that she can take with her that works in both the USA and England without the voltage transformer and has good sound quality. What products would you recommend for her?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16159" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="463258a0-07e8-4535-ad91-bb4f73809b76" CreationDate="2016-09-15T20:52:02.337" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [4365858c-56ea-478e-a98b-6d84b3f25a5f]" Text="Check out the [there is][1]: GeChic 2501H 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Portable Monitor with HDMI, VGA Inputs. This is a battery-powered, tablet-like form-factor screen from a well-known company. It meets all requirements listed above except for the size requirement - it is about two and a half inches too wide. This product has been on the market for some time; I realize now that I had been researching a similar need a year or two ago, so the reviews available to us on store pages for the device are long-standing and reflect somewhat on its build quality and usefulness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469028328&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=portable%20monitor%20HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16160" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="514f0dad-089c-4c3d-81a9-511e50fb9f6d" CreationDate="2016-09-15T20:52:09.233" UserId="8" Comment="35" />
  <row Id="16161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="be5b0f42-f352-465e-866b-9d97b4bb5f71" CreationDate="2016-09-15T20:54:01.900" UserId="8" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="As a musician and a regular traveler between North America (110V for power outlets) and England (230-240V), my aunt needs an excellent speaker to listen to her classical music and opera on her laptop. The laptop's built in speakers have poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aunt has tried taking her speakers (that she uses now and purchased in the US) and a [Voltage Transformer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power_conversion) but it is too inconvenient and bulky. She has also tried purchasing USB speakers, but they suffer from poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My aunt is looking for a speaker system that she can take with her that works in both the USA and England without the voltage transformer and has good sound quality. What products would you recommend for her?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16163" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="3be49b6e-ca52-4679-85b1-73f9c628636b" CreationDate="2016-09-15T22:12:29.473" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5751" RevisionGUID="54887f48-1831-4107-9634-8235ed564d9c" CreationDate="2016-09-16T01:45:04.393" UserId="4464" Comment="added 83 characters in body" Text="As a musician and a regular traveler between North America (110V for power outlets) and England (230-240V), my aunt needs an excellent speaker to listen to her classical music and opera on her laptop, because the laptop's built-in speakers have too poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What solutions can help my aunt? She has tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. taking her speakers (that she uses now and purchased in the US) and a [Voltage Transformer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power_conversion) but this is too inconvenient and bulky. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. purchasing USB speakers, but they suffer from too poor sound quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. User 'cfinley' edited this question earlier, and suggested: a speaker system that she can take with her that works in both the USA and England without any Voltage Transformers and has good sound quality. What products would you recommend for her?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4264" RevisionGUID="eebecd55-77ce-4d14-ae5a-69929954e9a5" CreationDate="2016-09-16T03:55:57.527" UserId="3836" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="Check out [this][1]: GeChic 2501H 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 Portable Monitor with HDMI, VGA Inputs. This is a battery-powered, tablet-like form-factor screen from a well-known company. It meets all requirements listed above except for the size requirement - it is about two and a half inches too wide. This product has been on the market for some time; I realize now that I had been researching a similar need a year or two ago, so the reviews available to us on store pages for the device are long-standing and reflect somewhat on its build quality and usefulness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469028328&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=portable%20monitor%20HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16169" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5753" RevisionGUID="fb806b0f-e191-4d0e-8ecc-ea8ec2d89bbf" CreationDate="2016-09-16T04:31:46.407" UserId="4466" Text="So I bought a Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro S which has a single usb type c port. I also bought a [usb c hub][2] so I could connect it to an external monitor via hdmi.  I also wanted to be able to boot into linux via flash drive, so I bought a [usb c flash drive][3].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then when I got everything I realized I couldn't plugin the flash drive and the hub at the same time.  The hub appeared to have a usb type c port, but this port appears to only allow me to provide input power and even if it did work as a port I still would need two usb type c ports one for the flash drive and one for power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I figured I just needed to buy a different usb hub with usb type c ports instead of type a ports... but I can't seem to find a usb type c hub that additional type c ports! They all appear to have female type A ports some with a power pass through and some without but none of them seem to have additional type c ports.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What gives? Is there some sort of limitation on connecting multiple type c devices at once? I thought this was supposed to be the new standard to eventually replace all the other cables, but now I can't seem to use a type c flash drive and a hub so I have to use a type a flash drive and carry around the hub too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BSJVY7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZC3NWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16170" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5753" RevisionGUID="fb806b0f-e191-4d0e-8ecc-ea8ec2d89bbf" CreationDate="2016-09-16T04:31:46.407" UserId="4466" Text="USB Type C hub / port replicator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16171" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5753" RevisionGUID="fb806b0f-e191-4d0e-8ecc-ea8ec2d89bbf" CreationDate="2016-09-16T04:31:46.407" UserId="4466" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5753" RevisionGUID="6fdaaa1e-f0d8-4952-8dbb-3604b159bb64" CreationDate="2016-09-16T08:46:57.567" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 156 characters in body" Text="So I bought a Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro S which has a single usb type c port. I also bought a [usb c hub][2] so I could connect it to an external monitor via hdmi.  I also wanted to be able to boot into linux via flash drive, so I bought a [usb c flash drive][3].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then when I got everything I realized I couldn't plugin the flash drive and the hub at the same time.  The hub appeared to have a usb type c port, but this port appears to only allow me to provide input power and even if it did work as a port I still would need two usb type c ports one for the flash drive and one for power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I figured I just needed to buy a different usb hub with usb type c ports instead of type a ports... but I can't seem to find a usb type c hub that additional type c ports! They all appear to have female type A ports some with a power pass through and some without but none of them seem to have additional type c ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a type C hub that will connect to the Tab Pro S, and will allow me to connect both the external monitor via HDMI and the flash drive at the same time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BSJVY7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZC3NWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5755" RevisionGUID="ce51a88a-24ab-4149-93e8-a914ff2b02f6" CreationDate="2016-09-16T09:42:49.067" UserId="2086" Text="I ended up buying Core i7 3770&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think people should see this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I just check the benchmark number and see the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Xeon E3-1290 V2 @ 3.70GHz 9,925 $885.00*&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Xeon E3-1280 V2 @ 3.60GHz 9,757 $644.99*&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i7-3770K @ 3.50GHz 9,560 $560.50&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Xeon E3-1270 V2 @ 3.50GHz 9,462 $421.00&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40GHz 9,328 $335.55&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Xeon E3-1275 V2 @ 3.50GHz 9,320 $434.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on that I think Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40GHz is the best choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the top 6 core have the same socket type and almost the same benchmark result. However, Intel Core i7 3770 is simply cheaper. It's only $335. I actually got a used one for $200 from tokopedia.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Xeon 1290 is simply too expensive and not available on tokopedia.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't mention budget range and I actually do expect to spend $1k. However, because i7 seems to have far cheaper cost benefit ratio I simply pick i7-3770.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, Adam told Intel Xeon E3-1290 V2 but the price is too expensive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5757" RevisionGUID="749450a2-af6b-49b2-860d-f640e9f4d2f5" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:19:02.613" UserId="4470" Text="I hope you can help me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I´m searching for a powerful Laptop with following creteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;500GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;NVIDIA graphics card&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu OS&#xD;&#xA;It doesn´t matter, if the Laptop has less RAM oder a smaller SSD ( i can upgrade this two components later).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is, that NVIDIA graphics card and Ubuntu are working together well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for software development with OpenGL on Ubuntu. It would be great, if the dedicated graphics card can be set for primary useage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any kind of experiences with some Laptops or an idea, what kind of Laptop would be appropriate for our use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best wishes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5757" RevisionGUID="749450a2-af6b-49b2-860d-f640e9f4d2f5" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:19:02.613" UserId="4470" Text="Powerful Laptop with dedicated graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5757" RevisionGUID="749450a2-af6b-49b2-860d-f640e9f4d2f5" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:19:02.613" UserId="4470" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16184" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5757" RevisionGUID="c24a43be-af00-481f-b7c6-c3b4db507e01" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:27:34.987" UserId="57" Comment="small cleanups" Text="I hope you can help me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I´m searching for a powerful Laptop with following creteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 500GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA graphics card&#xD;&#xA;- Ubuntu OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn´t matter, if the Laptop has less RAM oder a smaller SSD ( i can upgrade this two components later).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is, that NVIDIA graphics card and Ubuntu are working together well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for software development with OpenGL on Ubuntu. It would be great, if the dedicated graphics card can be set for primary useage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of Laptop would be appropriate for our use?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5757" RevisionGUID="201a8928-4e64-420e-ac3f-958e3a1c84df" CreationDate="2016-09-16T15:13:19.823" UserId="3836" Comment="fixed grammar, syntax, and spelling." Text="I hope you can help me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I´m searching for a powerful laptop with following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 500GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA graphics card&#xD;&#xA;- Ubuntu OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn´t matter if the laptop has less RAM or a smaller SSD ( i can upgrade these two components later).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is that its NVIDIA graphics card works well with Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for software development with OpenGL on Ubuntu. It would be great if the dedicated graphics card can be set for primary usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of laptop would be appropriate for our use?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5758" RevisionGUID="51a856dc-b4e1-441a-aeed-abfc18def04f" CreationDate="2016-09-16T15:26:53.880" UserId="3836" Text="I suggest looking at ratings for some of the better bluetooth portable speakers that are available for people these days. One that particularly stood out to me was the **[Marshall Kilburn][1]**, which attracts me for its bass/treble knobs, (apparently) excellent sound quality (I'm by no means an audiophile and I haven't heard this one in person, but if I had $250 to blow on a soundsystem I'd feel pretty good about this one given its brand and reviews), and the carrying strap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two caveats: first, your aunt's laptop helps determine sound quality - it has to have a sound card in it that is worthy of the speakers they connect to. I would test this by connecting the laptop to a large, known-good home sound system and pumping your music through that - if it still sounds good then you don't need to worry about the sound card in the laptop. If not, then perhaps you will need to consider upgrading the laptop or getting an external USB soundcard, which starts to become rather clunky if you're on the move.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second caveat is that your aunt's laptop will need bluetooth to use this speaker. If you don't have one, you can add bluetooth via USB dongles that run only a few bucks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_972KLBURNB/Marshall-Kilburn-Black.html?tp=63331" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5760" RevisionGUID="fb2f6bbe-f73b-40fb-91a0-3f9e1ad7ba3c" CreationDate="2016-09-16T18:57:39.087" UserId="141" Text="I am currently running an Oryx Pro from [System76][1] and it is serving me very well, I've configured it with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 24GB of DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - A 250GB NVMe SSD (+ a 1TB hdd)&#xD;&#xA; - A GTX 970M Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA; - And an i7-6700HQ processor.&#xD;&#xA; - (Everything working with 16.04 LTS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although this meets all your requirements, I spent $2000 on mine, you're probably going to [configure it differently.][2] (Now with GTX 10xx cards too!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They come with Ubuntu installed by default, and I have absolutely loved my Oryx so far, hope you get an equally great experience if you choose to buy one. I have had zero issues with graphics drivers or video/x-server configuration. It just works as it should.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://system76.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://system76.com/cart/configure/oryp2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="bd0d0eb7-7e12-48fc-aefc-668a17a148f4" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:02:41.713" UserId="4477" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a Dell UltraSharp 24&quot; (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close of me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia, programming nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][1] but it don't have any USB ports, something around 250&amp;euro;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16192" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="bd0d0eb7-7e12-48fc-aefc-668a17a148f4" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:02:41.713" UserId="4477" Text="Monitor for multimedia (22&quot;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16193" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="bd0d0eb7-7e12-48fc-aefc-668a17a148f4" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:02:41.713" UserId="4477" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5762" RevisionGUID="54d791db-ec25-41c2-98e5-80e5f0c1d50b" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:04:52.600" UserId="4476" Text="I'm looking for something inexpensive to use as an electronic task board mounted on the wall in a house spending under or close to $50 if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably a 7&quot; screen minimum. 3&quot; seems to small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screensaver or screen dimming isn't in the foreground yet but I will want to consider the energy drain and the ambient light late at night with all lights off. If it turns the display off automatically then that would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also like this to be not too difficult to set up. I'm fine drilling a couple nails in the wall but I'm not interested in attaching a laptop LCD screen to a Raspberry Pi or using a soldering iron.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Raspberry Pi Model B already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a couple tablets already but they're always being used, so I can't put any existing tablet on the wall full-time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also don't want to tie up the family room TV with this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did see an RCA tablet for around $35 running Android. This might work if the quality of the tablet is good. I've seen tablet picture ledges that could probably be put on the wall, but the charging cord for the tablet won't look appealing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once I have this, I'm planning on running one application on it full time that displays a web page. The web page is a custom Node.js application that fetches task list items from my Wunderlist account and renders them the way I want in a browser window, or if necessary an Android app showing a web view." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5762" RevisionGUID="54d791db-ec25-41c2-98e5-80e5f0c1d50b" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:04:52.600" UserId="4476" Text="Inexpensive Electronic Task Board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5762" RevisionGUID="54d791db-ec25-41c2-98e5-80e5f0c1d50b" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:04:52.600" UserId="4476" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16197" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="ca1a8e90-2341-44bc-aeb2-a56c642ce8dd" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:08:54.040" UserId="4477" Comment="deleted 12 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a Dell UltraSharp 24&quot; (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close of me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; 250&amp;euro;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][1] but it don't have any USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16198" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="ca1a8e90-2341-44bc-aeb2-a56c642ce8dd" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:08:54.040" UserId="4477" Comment="deleted 12 characters in body" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16199" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="24a5f949-b44f-4d89-841e-aa7feab5a705" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:19:09.697" UserId="4477" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a Dell UltraSharp 24&quot; (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close from me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; 250&amp;euro;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][1] but it don't have any USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16200" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="c1cff3f9-6f03-4038-b1e6-da3fb0dbc267" CreationDate="2016-09-16T19:24:19.270" UserId="4477" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a Dell UltraSharp 24&quot; (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close from me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port (audio I/O is a plus)&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; 250&amp;euro;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][1] but it don't have any USB ports neither audio I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16201" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="2c7e1121-20e5-4bad-a49d-7a84745dd78e" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:14:10.213" UserId="4477" Comment="added 114 characters in body" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a [Dell UltraSharp 24&quot;][1] (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close from me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port (audio I/O is a plus)&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; 250&amp;euro;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][2] but it don't have any USB ports neither audio I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www1.euro.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/dell-u2414h?c=uk&amp;l=en&amp;s=dhs&amp;cs=ukdhs1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5763" RevisionGUID="7cbd8ae2-87da-47b1-91ad-fa12e4452e78" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:16:14.883" UserId="4478" Text="   Another vote for the i7-4790K: I tried to make an i7-6700K machine to outperform it.  Both CPUs were delidded — (CL Liquid Pro put between die &amp; IHS) — and overclocked as far as I could reliably go with Noctua NH-D14 &amp; Vcore=1.275).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   I got to 4.5/4.4/4.4/4.4GHz (1/2/3/4 cores active) on the 6700, and used DDR4 3000 (CL15).  With the 4790K, I was able to get 4.9/4.8/4.7/4.7GHz, and used DDR3 2400 (CL10).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   In both single-thread and overall (Passmark) CPU benchmarks, the 4790 bested the 6700, not by *a ton*, but..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5764" RevisionGUID="6a46f902-9830-4b19-a01f-ca7731441bec" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:21:43.320" UserId="8" Text="I'll recommend a close relative to the monitor I use: the **[AOC Vesa I2269VWM 21.5&quot;](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BDBVCCK)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 21.5&quot; is pretty close to your 22&quot; requirement. There are also 23&quot; and 27&quot; options, though I imagine you'd rather not go for those.&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 full HD&#xD;&#xA;- No USB ports. If you want USB ports on your desk rather than having to dig for the PC I/O plate every time, I recommend you get a USB hub rather than looking for a monitor with integrated USB ports - the majority of monitors will come without them, and having them will make a monitor more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;- 2 (i.e. stereo) loudspeakers&#xD;&#xA;- AOC do sell in Europe; I haven't confirmed that *this model* is available in Europe, but it's certainly available in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;- £104.16 / 121,58€ (based on UK price and current exchange rates; EUR figure subject to change)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AOC are generally pretty reliable; my AOC has been going for a year so far, and the AOC monitors my workplace uses have been going for 8-ish years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5765" RevisionGUID="2b4648ab-1fa3-4d9a-aff3-fe53d5d277d2" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:57:22.053" UserId="8" Text="Alternatively, you could have the [**Dell UltraSharp U2212HM 21.5&quot;**](http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2212h/pd) monitor. Very similar to your current monitor, but in 21.5&quot; size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 21.5&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 Full HD&#xD;&#xA;- 4 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI&#xD;&#xA;- Available, like most/all Dell monitors, in Europe&#xD;&#xA;- I'm finding prices between 135€ and 160€; prices will vary depending on which retailer you pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you've probably already worked out, Dell are one of the best for monitors. This is a pretty solid bet - I've not used one myself, but I know a couple of people who use either this monitor or a close relative and have been very satisfied with it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5766" RevisionGUID="2f0abe66-f61a-4165-be9a-3947b8225b62" CreationDate="2016-09-17T03:19:38.060" UserId="531" Text="While the solution I would go with would be headphones, and a good dac, there's actually *better* speakers that do USB and other options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at reviews (the wirecutter does excellent ones with a panel of *experts*, the [audio engine A2+][1] sounds like a good option to consider, no pun intended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its tiny but comes with a good range of inputs (including a built in DAC so you can bypass the inputs on the laptop). Its powered by a switching power supply so you can use it anywhere. Wirecutter feels its quiet, and not that bassy *but* this is a tradeoff for sound. If you must, consider pairing this up with a good small DAC - say a ODAC2 or a schitt modi, and its probably as good as you get with speakers and a setup that would fit in something like a laptop bag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Powered-Speaker-Systems/A2-plus-Powered-Desktop-Speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16213" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5761" RevisionGUID="f1102a6a-b8ef-43ae-80df-029a61618d08" CreationDate="2016-09-17T09:21:14.490" UserId="4477" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a [Dell UltraSharp 24&quot;][1] (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close from me) and would like to switch with a 22&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirement :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ~22 inches&#xD;&#xA; - Full HD resolution (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI and at least 3 USB port (audio I/O is a plus)&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; 250&amp;euro;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like [ASUS VX229H][2] but it don't have any USB ports neither audio I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www1.euro.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/dell-u2414h?c=uk&amp;l=en&amp;s=dhs&amp;cs=ukdhs1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16222" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="5659dbd5-f47b-4d6b-bd26-64efede42bb9" CreationDate="2016-09-17T12:46:25.737" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5769" RevisionGUID="e8be3684-84af-412f-8540-123869bcab0b" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:49:10.500" UserId="4485" Text="After I invested on a laptop to start graphic designing I ended up finding out that AMD wasn't good for it and that my computer's power isn't enough(AMD doesn't support openGL render and I have just an i5 processor in my computer).  &#xD;&#xA;So I was wondering if it was possible to install an external GPU on my pc. I am just a simple end use with not so much knowledge on hardware, and I was wondering if external nvidia graphic cards are available that would run via USB ports in my PC(windows 7).  &#xD;&#xA;If not, what would be a work around for me that would provide me a similar performance of an nvidia graphic card and would support high and fast rendering(for 3D graphics,{specifically I'm using blender- cycles})?  &#xD;&#xA;(I'm using a dell inspiron laptop.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16224" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5769" RevisionGUID="e8be3684-84af-412f-8540-123869bcab0b" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:49:10.500" UserId="4485" Text="external graphic card for pc(windows)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16225" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5769" RevisionGUID="e8be3684-84af-412f-8540-123869bcab0b" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:49:10.500" UserId="4485" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5770" RevisionGUID="f598d68f-4391-4482-b2ce-c6cce4b6d90e" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:53:31.003" UserId="4486" Text="So I wanna buy a tablet that is the closest to these specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10 to 11.6 inch screen&#xD;&#xA; - Android 5.1 or above. Dual boot tablets (with ability to run Windows as well) are also okay&#xD;&#xA; - At least 2 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - GPS&#xD;&#xA; - SIM slot for 3G or 4G LTE&#xD;&#xA; - Under $200 (if it is possible) or the closest option&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I consider any brand, both well-known and lesser prominent, but the device should have at least some footprint, e.g. some reviews, so totally no-name options from Ali aren't a good option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16227" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5770" RevisionGUID="f598d68f-4391-4482-b2ce-c6cce4b6d90e" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:53:31.003" UserId="4486" Text="Android tablet with 10+ inch screen, 2 or 4 gb ram, GPS and 3/4G recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16228" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5770" RevisionGUID="f598d68f-4391-4482-b2ce-c6cce4b6d90e" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:53:31.003" UserId="4486" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5771" RevisionGUID="6bd16a9e-16c9-424c-bb68-14501504b5fd" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:57:29.957" UserId="4482" Text="as the title says. I just want to ask if I have a dedicated or integrated graphics card and what is the difference? And also, what are your suggestions on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I upgrade my RAM? or Should I upgrade my graphics card? Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit (6.3, Build 9600) (9600.winblue_ltsb.150715-0840)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Language: English (Regional Setting: English)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    System Manufacturer: System manufacturer&#xD;&#xA;       System Model: System Product Name&#xD;&#xA;               BIOS: BIOS Date: 01/21/15 14:14:16 Ver: 07.02&#xD;&#xA;          Processor: AMD A8-6600K APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics    (4 CPUs), ~3.9GHz&#xD;&#xA;             Memory: 4096MB RAM&#xD;&#xA;    Available OS Memory: 3016MB RAM&#xD;&#xA;          Page File: 1392MB used, 4695MB available&#xD;&#xA;        Windows Dir: C:\Windows&#xD;&#xA;    DirectX Version: DirectX 11&#xD;&#xA;    DX Setup Parameters: Not found&#xD;&#xA;    User DPI Setting: Using System DPI&#xD;&#xA;    System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)&#xD;&#xA;    DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled&#xD;&#xA;     DxDiag Version: 6.03.9600.17415 64bit Unicode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     Card name: AMD Radeon HD 8570D&#xD;&#xA;       Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.&#xD;&#xA;          Chip type: AMD Radeon HD 8570D (0x990E)&#xD;&#xA;           DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)&#xD;&#xA;        Device Type: Full Device&#xD;&#xA;         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&amp;DEV_990E&amp;SUBSYS_85261043&amp;REV_00&#xD;&#xA;     Display Memory: 2294 MB&#xD;&#xA;     Dedicated Memory: 1014 MB&#xD;&#xA;      Shared Memory: 1280 MB&#xD;&#xA;       Current Mode: 1024 x 768 (32 bit) (60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;       Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor&#xD;&#xA;      Monitor Model: L1553S&#xD;&#xA;         Monitor Id: GSM3BB0&#xD;&#xA;        Native Mode: 1024 x 768(p) (60.004Hz)&#xD;&#xA;        Output Type: HD15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5771" RevisionGUID="6bd16a9e-16c9-424c-bb68-14501504b5fd" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:57:29.957" UserId="4482" Text="Question if I have a dedicated or integrated graphics card and what is the difference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5771" RevisionGUID="6bd16a9e-16c9-424c-bb68-14501504b5fd" CreationDate="2016-09-17T13:57:29.957" UserId="4482" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16232" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="56c7f77b-cbdf-43de-b855-f4ddfa53a5fc" CreationDate="2016-09-17T15:47:33.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5772" RevisionGUID="d35a7228-bfe0-4273-985a-58aee660e345" CreationDate="2016-09-17T17:52:45.767" UserId="4057" Text="You actually have an dedicated graphic card as well as an integrated. You have an AMD A series processor which has an iGPU, you should definitely chech if your cards arde compatible and if they support CrossFireX in order to get the most out of your system. As far as your RAM is ckncerned, yes you should definitely upgrade your memory to at least 8GB since you have a 64-bit processor in order for your pc to handle multitasking smoother... Your dedicated graphics card is pretty outdated as well, in fact i think your integrated may offer better oerformance (I haven't done any reserach on that it's just a feeling, you should check out if that's the case though, and if you can't run them in CrossFire, at least make sure you are using whichever one is better). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5774" RevisionGUID="090d7078-9fe4-4aaf-93d7-50ba5dbc7eca" CreationDate="2016-09-17T18:04:24.217" UserId="4057" Text="Probably not, externl graphic cards do not run via anything lower than USB 3.0.  In addition that USB port has to be a &quot;lightning port&quot; in order for an exteranl GPU to be supproted through it. This is simple because an older USB prot doesnt have enough bandwidth to support the communication between a GPU and your pc, and also because it doesnt connect into the right port on the motherboard. Lightning ports however were originally based on the PCI-E architecture whic is where graphics cards would plug into on desktop motherboards. So, please specify the exact model of your laptop so that we will be able to research it and provide you with more detailed information." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16238" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5771" RevisionGUID="b341afa2-a485-4632-b43a-9d53d2d367e4" CreationDate="2016-09-17T20:19:50.527" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16241" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5769" RevisionGUID="34fab409-2069-4f4d-83ee-82fb887db1fb" CreationDate="2016-09-17T20:28:47.310" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5777" RevisionGUID="e9dcff19-103c-42ab-8e23-ea8de2f990d9" CreationDate="2016-09-18T00:46:58.433" UserId="4492" Text="I have a Dell T7400 Workstation currently running on the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;*Dual Intel Xeon E5410 @ 2.33 GHz&#xD;&#xA;32 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine is working great but the processor and RAM performances are maxed out when I am rendering a complex After Effects composition. I'm considering to upgrade the processors but I have no idea how to know what processors are compatible with my machine. Do I just look for any processors that runs on the same socket &quot; LGA771&quot; , or there would be another criteria to judge upon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the full specs list for the Dell T7400 :&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/precn/en/precn_t7400_specsheet.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for helping me :)&#xD;&#xA;Mina" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5777" RevisionGUID="e9dcff19-103c-42ab-8e23-ea8de2f990d9" CreationDate="2016-09-18T00:46:58.433" UserId="4492" Text="What Dual CPU Processors are compatible with my Dell T7400 workstation /" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5777" RevisionGUID="e9dcff19-103c-42ab-8e23-ea8de2f990d9" CreationDate="2016-09-18T00:46:58.433" UserId="4492" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5774" RevisionGUID="298bfa59-918e-4e2c-acf5-d0474a448aa4" CreationDate="2016-09-18T02:16:18.437" UserId="4057" Comment="Misleadingly used &quot;lightning prot&quot; instead of &quot;thunderbolt port&quot; in original response. Also, spelling corrections." Text="Probably not, external graphic cards do not run via anything lower than USB 3.0.  In addition that USB port has to be a thunderbolt port in order for an exteranl GPU to be supproted through it. This is simply because an older USB port doesn't have enough bandwidth to support the communication between a GPU and your PC, and also because it doesn't connect to the appropriate port on the motherboard. Thunderbolt ports however are based on PCI-E technology which is the same, as the one used by desktop graphics cards to communicate with the computer. Hence, if your laptop supports thunderbolt you would be able to purchase an external GPU chassis (like the one offered by RazerBlade), as well as a GPU that would convert PCI-E to thinderbolt, and plug into the proper port on your laptop. We would have to know the exact model number of your laptop to tell if it is equipped by a thunderbolt port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16257" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="22f4b300-2a6e-4722-b15c-0335f31a21d2" CreationDate="2016-09-18T03:00:30.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5781" RevisionGUID="b70abb9c-e238-436e-a034-1cc3027203bf" CreationDate="2016-09-18T12:08:17.493" UserId="4496" Text="It's been 8 years since I last bought a laptop, so I'm very rusty. I would like a laptop which has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a 15'' monitor&#xD;&#xA; 2. it's **reliable** (don't want to buy another one anytime soon!)&#xD;&#xA; 3. it's lightweight&#xD;&#xA; 4. it's a powerful computing enviroment: I like dabbling with machine learning and statistics (I use the open source language R). I have a powerful workstation at work, thus I don't **have** to do computationally intensive stuff at home too, but I sure would like to try it out now and then. &#xD;&#xA; 5. I haven't been playing for at least 10 years, but recently I've taken a liking to playing games on my smartphone (Samsung S6), so I was curious to come back to the gaming world and see how it is now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been offered a Dell XPS 15 9550 laptop with [high-end configuration][1]: basically it's the 15'' Touch screen model (a touch screen on a laptop? sounds weird to me) with the 512 SSD hard disk (curious to see what difference this kind of HD makes with respect to the SATA I knew). It's nearly new (1 month), and I would pay it 1300 € (I live in a European country). Full warranty, etc. Since Dell site prices it at 2050$, it sounded like a good deal and I got a verbal agreement, but...an acquaintance told me that the graphics card is &quot;crap&quot; (his words) and that there are better options at the same price. He pointed me to [this laptop][2]. I apologize for the non-English link, but I couldn't find exactly the same laptop on the English HP site. [This one][3] seems the closest one, but note that it has an HD twice as big (!). Anyway, it's not necessary to focus on these two. I just want to know if the XPS 15 9550 Touch is a good laptop, given my requirements, and if not, which one would be a valid alternative. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?oc=dncwx1634h&amp;model_id=xps-15-9550-laptop#overrides=dncwx1634h:8~512G&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://store.hp.com/ItalyStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=E7E59EA&amp;opt=ABZ&amp;sel=NTB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/Laptops/omen-laptop---15t-gaming-uhd-w2n30ua-aba" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16263" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5781" RevisionGUID="b70abb9c-e238-436e-a034-1cc3027203bf" CreationDate="2016-09-18T12:08:17.493" UserId="4496" Text="XPS 15 9550 top configuration, is it a good choice according to my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16264" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5781" RevisionGUID="b70abb9c-e238-436e-a034-1cc3027203bf" CreationDate="2016-09-18T12:08:17.493" UserId="4496" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16268" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="d30f1cb4-a6ca-45d0-a3de-ba9f88238098" CreationDate="2016-09-18T13:35:19.470" UserId="4431" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm left with three offers, all with matte screens and 8GB RAM, sorted by price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1700PLN: Lenovo ThinkPad E450, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G&#xD;&#xA;* 1950PLN: Acer V3-371, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G&#xD;&#xA;* 2150PLN: Lenovo IdeaPad 500s-13, LED IPS 1920x1080, i3-6100U, SSD 240G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that 120G of SSD would be plenty for the user. Battery life is very important. Please keep in mind that the earnings in Poland are much lower than in the western countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are the more expensive options worth the extra cost?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="68fe4d33-a9c1-496e-8da1-f25483f50921" CreationDate="2016-09-18T13:52:46.290" UserId="4431" Comment="added 462 characters in body" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm left with three offers, all with matte screens and 8GB RAM, sorted by price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1700PLN: Lenovo ThinkPad E450, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G, 8G RAM: [link][1]&#xD;&#xA;* 1800PLN: the same but with 12G RAM: [link][2]&#xD;&#xA;* 1950PLN: Acer V3-371, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G: [link][3]&#xD;&#xA;* 2150PLN: Lenovo IdeaPad 500s-13, LED IPS 1920x1080, i3-6100U, SSD 240G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that 120G of SSD would be plenty for the user. Battery life is very important. Please keep in mind that the earnings in Poland are much lower than in the western countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are the more expensive options worth the extra cost?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://allegro.pl/laptop-lenovo-thinkpad-e450-i3-5005u-8gb-120ssd-i6494814170.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://allegro.pl/laptop-lenovo-thinkpad-e450-i3-5005u-12gb-120ssd-i6494814503.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/292319-notebook-laptop-133-acer-v3-371-i3-5005u-8gb-120.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/303295-ultrabook-133-lenovo-ideapad-500s-13-i3-6100u-8gb-240-czerwony.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16270" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5762" RevisionGUID="e52597ed-fb57-4623-b3fe-4046e8e9e58e" CreationDate="2016-09-18T16:02:59.940" UserId="4476" Comment="Add additional info on digital picture frame" Text="I'm looking for something inexpensive to use as an electronic task board mounted on the wall in a house spending under or close to $50 if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably a 7&quot; screen minimum. 3&quot; seems to small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screensaver or screen dimming isn't in the foreground yet but I will want to consider the energy drain and the ambient light late at night with all lights off. If it turns the display off automatically then that would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also like this to be not too difficult to set up. I'm fine drilling a couple nails in the wall but I'm not interested in attaching a laptop LCD screen to a Raspberry Pi or using a soldering iron.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Raspberry Pi Model B already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a couple tablets already but they're always being used, so I can't put any existing tablet on the wall full-time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also don't want to tie up the family room TV with this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did see an RCA tablet for around $35 running Android. This might work if the quality of the tablet is good. I've seen tablet picture ledges that could probably be put on the wall, but the charging cord for the tablet won't look appealing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once I have this, I'm planning on running one application on it full time that displays a web page. The web page is a custom Node.js application that fetches task list items from my Wunderlist account and renders them the way I want in a browser window, or if necessary an Android app showing a web view.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:** A digital picture frame would suffice if I could script periodically regenerating an image of the web page e.g. [http://stackoverflow.com/questions/968201/convert-web-page-to-image](here). If the frame supports Wi-Fi, it can display photos stored on my LAN, one or more of which could be a generated image of the current page." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16271" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5762" RevisionGUID="e52597ed-fb57-4623-b3fe-4046e8e9e58e" CreationDate="2016-09-18T16:02:59.940" UserId="4476" Comment="Add additional info on digital picture frame" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16276" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5777" RevisionGUID="5ace74db-6a04-4a87-8ff5-8fdd663ad339" CreationDate="2016-09-18T17:06:49.377" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 37 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell T7400 Workstation currently running on the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;*Dual Intel Xeon E5410 @ 2.33 GHz&#xD;&#xA;32 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine is working great but the processor and RAM performances are maxed out when I am rendering a complex After Effects composition. I'm considering to upgrade the processors but I have no idea how to know what processors are compatible with my machine. Do I just look for any processors that runs on the same socket &quot; LGA771&quot; , or there would be another criteria to judge upon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the full specs list for the Dell T7400 :&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/precn/en/precn_t7400_specsheet.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16277" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5777" RevisionGUID="5e8162f4-096a-4123-a180-9e4d8cedb5e6" CreationDate="2016-09-18T17:06:52.940" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16282" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="526aa22d-38ba-4f91-84fe-c031862b8eff" CreationDate="2016-09-18T21:15:24.930" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5786" RevisionGUID="964cdfbf-bfa6-436a-93e6-a13a80773434" CreationDate="2016-09-19T07:36:04.673" UserId="3836" Text="Unfortunately there are precious few GPUs that can actually do anything past 2 monitors without needing to use DisplayPort or Active Adapters/Splitters of some exotic description or other, and the cards that do this are somewhat rare and often expensive when you can find them. One card that I have routinely found to be relatively cheap (and still able to handle 3 FHD screens) is the **[Sapphire 100322FLEX Radeon HD 6450 Graphic Card 1GB Fanless][1]** card. This has Sapphire's proprietary third RAMDAC added (they call this FleX technology), which allows all three graphic outs to be utilized simultaneously. While it is true that it doesn't come with a VGA port per se, this is easily overcome by adding the included DVI-VGA adapter to the DVI-D port (the one with the four extra holes along the cross insert).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option (and often a better one for many individuals) is to use a GPU to drive some of your displays, but keep your motherboard/CPU graphics chip enabled so that you can use some of those video outs (and associated spare RAMDACs) to drive your third (and fourth) screen(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sapphire-100322FLEX-Radeon-HD-6450-Graphic-Card-1GB-Fanless-2DVI-HFMI-3-OUTPUT-/112141523920?hash=item1a1c27dbd0:g:o6cAAOSw8gVX34Xo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5788" RevisionGUID="389b04dd-5fba-4ddc-85b9-f002926a2d11" CreationDate="2016-09-19T11:14:04.083" UserId="4502" Text="I'm looking at a replacement for some aging Drobos. I like the look of the small Synology 2.5in desktop (for reasons of space) and wondered if anyone had experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I want to start them out at 4x1Tb drives, and then when the price drops (assumption!) in 2-3 years time swap them out (gradually, 1 at a time over a week or so) for 2 or 3Tb drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that SHR (?) will let me do this, but that until all the drives have been replaced with larger drives the overall volume will remain at 4Tb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the case? Are there any gotcha's I should know about?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5788" RevisionGUID="389b04dd-5fba-4ddc-85b9-f002926a2d11" CreationDate="2016-09-19T11:14:04.083" UserId="4502" Text="Upgrading a Synology DS416slim NAS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5788" RevisionGUID="389b04dd-5fba-4ddc-85b9-f002926a2d11" CreationDate="2016-09-19T11:14:04.083" UserId="4502" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16300" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="a05b1ef7-0299-4c49-a8d6-de7ffb04a457" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:11:25.123" UserId="4431" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm left with three offers, all with matte screens and 8GB RAM, sorted by price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1700PLN: Lenovo ThinkPad E450, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G, 8G RAM: [link][1]&#xD;&#xA;* 1800PLN: the same but with 12G RAM: [link][2]&#xD;&#xA;* 1950PLN: Acer V3-371, LED 1366x768, i3-5005U, SSD 120G: [link][3]&#xD;&#xA;* 2150PLN: Lenovo IdeaPad 500s-13, LED IPS 1920x1080, i3-6100U, SSD 240G: [link][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that 120G of SSD would be plenty for the user. Battery life is very important. Please keep in mind that the earnings in Poland are much lower than in the western countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are the more expensive options worth the extra cost?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://allegro.pl/laptop-lenovo-thinkpad-e450-i3-5005u-8gb-120ssd-i6494814170.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://allegro.pl/laptop-lenovo-thinkpad-e450-i3-5005u-12gb-120ssd-i6494814503.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/292319-notebook-laptop-133-acer-v3-371-i3-5005u-8gb-120.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.x-kom.pl/p/303295-ultrabook-133-lenovo-ideapad-500s-13-i3-6100u-8gb-240-czerwony.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5789" RevisionGUID="5471c894-364f-44bb-b8ae-275b02ff716f" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:39:16.007" UserId="4504" Text="&gt; How To Ask&#xD;&#xA;  Questions here get better answers when you…  &#xD;&#xA;  …show us what you've done and why it hasn't worked for you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched Pcpartpicker, newegg and amazon. The problem I'm having is making sure that the CPU I buy is the best option for my usage below. When I bought mine it was simple I just grabbed an i7 4790k and called it a day. Trying to budget build a PC for someone else with completely different needs than mine, its difficult to select the correct CPU out of all of the available options. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; …list all your requirements for a single, specific piece of hardware&#xD;&#xA;…avoid asking for technical support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm looking for a CPU for general office use, including facebook games. &#xD;&#xA; - I have no preference between Intel and AMD.  &#xD;&#xA; - Integrated graphics  &#xD;&#xA; - No preference between current gen and last gen  &#xD;&#xA; - **Under 100$ usd** &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5789" RevisionGUID="5471c894-364f-44bb-b8ae-275b02ff716f" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:39:16.007" UserId="4504" Text="What CPU should I get for general office use, under 100$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5789" RevisionGUID="5471c894-364f-44bb-b8ae-275b02ff716f" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:39:16.007" UserId="4504" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16304" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5788" RevisionGUID="425f9a2a-ce7f-4139-a123-f304cc33b2c0" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:46:25.633" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5790" RevisionGUID="c368cf8d-bf53-4ec6-a282-60e995a9a568" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:25:03.347" UserId="4412" Text="The Pentium G4400 should do. Decent performance for general business needs, low power consumption, $50 under your budget, plus it uses the new skylake architecture. The G4400 may not be a beast, but it would get the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically what I would do is ask the person I'm building the pc for what their habits and routines are when using their pc. Then you can look at the programs they use and determine how much each program would consume the CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015VPX05A/ref=asc_df_B015VPX05A4524847/?tag=hawk-future-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B015VPX05A&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;ascsubtag=hawk-348218449-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16306" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5790" RevisionGUID="a77c5032-a4af-4879-996e-bc637ba4d72f" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:27:15.473" UserId="3836" Comment="edited for accuracy." Text="The Pentium G4400 should do. Decent performance for general business needs, low power consumption, $45 under your budget, plus it uses the new skylake architecture. The G4400 may not be a beast, but it would get the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically what I would do is ask the person I'm building the pc for what their habits and routines are when using their pc. Then you can look at the programs they use and determine how much each program would consume the CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015VPX05A/ref=asc_df_B015VPX05A4524847/?tag=hawk-future-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B015VPX05A&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;ascsubtag=hawk-348218449-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5791" RevisionGUID="5a523ad0-e966-4f74-9fa3-7420ea3c3798" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:30:34.120" UserId="3836" Text="Get the cheapest one of those you can that has the smallest screen. They're all going to have about the same battery life otherwise, and they all have enough RAM for the tasks that will be thrown on them if your host OS is a linux distribution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The more expensive options are not worth the cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5789" RevisionGUID="eec60567-b8f3-4392-b7b1-e0ed6ad057a2" CreationDate="2016-09-19T16:03:50.390" UserId="4504" Comment="added 699 characters in body" Text="&gt; How To Ask&#xD;&#xA;  Questions here get better answers when you…  &#xD;&#xA;  …show us what you've done and why it hasn't worked for you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched Pcpartpicker, newegg and amazon. The problem I'm having is making sure that the CPU I buy is the best option for my usage below. When I bought mine it was simple I just grabbed an i7 4790k and called it a day. Trying to budget build a PC for someone else with completely different needs than mine, its difficult to select the correct CPU out of all of the available options. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; …list all your requirements for a single, specific piece of hardware&#xD;&#xA;…avoid asking for technical support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm looking for a CPU for general office use, including facebook games. &#xD;&#xA; - I have no preference between Intel and AMD.  &#xD;&#xA; - Integrated graphics  &#xD;&#xA; - No preference between current gen and last gen  &#xD;&#xA; - **Under 100$ usd** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional points I should clarify, and things I don't really need help with. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - Going to use a micro ATX motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Already have a 500w evga PSU for the system&#xD;&#xA; - Noise doesn't matter&#xD;&#xA; - Would like to use stock cooling &#xD;&#xA; - Plan on having an ssd(m.2 or standard) and two 3.5 inch archive drives. &#xD;&#xA; - PC will be shut down nightly &#xD;&#xA; - No interest in Over clocking at all. &#xD;&#xA; - The most intensive thing this build will do is playback 1080p media from a remote plex server.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Based on a couple comments and answers so far, I think I might be worried a bit too much about what CPU to buy, it seems like anything a few years old and within my budget would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16309" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5792" RevisionGUID="8e490151-85b4-4217-abbe-b0754ba0a1d2" CreationDate="2016-09-19T16:04:40.607" UserId="3836" Text="I suggest the **[AMD A8-7600][1]** for maximum lifespan. I've built a few systems with this APU by now, so I can be fairly confident in recommending it. It offers a good mix of single core, multicore, and GPU performance with a TDP of 65W, and it offers low overall system cost because mATX boards for this APU are inexpensive. It costs only about ~70, but it offers four cores at 3.1ghz stock (turbo up to 3.8ghz, which it can hit quite easily and often on its stock cooler in a decently cool system), and its R7 integrated GPU is frankly much more powerful than is likely needed - it should be able to handle screens up to 4K without difficulty (provided you get [a motherboard with a video out that supports those resolutions][2] - link is to one of the motherboards I've used for this socket that [I got a world record overclock on][3] and which I think is just about the best board for this socket).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=AD7600BOX&amp;c=CJ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157689&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://hwbot.org/submission/3287082_adamwykes_cpu_frequency_a4_7300_4743_mhz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5793" RevisionGUID="4a402375-b302-49ed-a32b-a8b3d674e6d9" CreationDate="2016-09-19T19:18:21.140" UserId="4504" Text="  &gt; I just want to know if the XPS 15 9550 Touch is a good laptop, given my requirements, and if not, which one would be a valid alternative.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;This should be able to handle most things. The CPU is new enough to not be a bottleneck while compiling code, while the GPU is solid enough to push AAA titles to max/ultra settings in 1080p (some games might have to throttle to 30fps).  Here is a point by point break down.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - This model comes in 15.6 and 17.3 inch models.  &#xD;&#xA; - This is name brand laptop, using a brand new CPU and GPU, it will last         as long as it meets your needs. If upgrading is a concern, consider a desktop.  &#xD;&#xA; - The 15.6 inch model is 4.85 lbs.  &#xD;&#xA; - This laptop has a 6th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 processor, its one of the most powerful consumer grade CPU on the market today.  &#xD;&#xA; - The GPU will be able to play most games on Max/Ultra settings on 1080p. If there are any specific games you would like to know about google &quot;NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 965M&quot; and the game you're interested in.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Oh and by the way, the HDD to SSD jump is amazing. I went from an old 5400rpm boot drive to a m.2 ssd drive and it is like night and day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5794" RevisionGUID="847f475f-8c68-49fb-8e6b-b946a26a87c9" CreationDate="2016-09-19T19:49:21.643" UserId="4475" Text="Please excuse me if this question is too vague or broad.  If necessary, I'll provide more details as I have them or withdraw the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been offered a new job as a C#/C++ programmer and the employer has generously offered to let me pick out my own computer.  I have some strong ideas on what I want, but it's been a long time since I've picked out a laptop.  Usually the employer just picks one and that is that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping someone can recommend a good model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My non-negotiables:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1.  I want a laptop as I need to be portable.  BUT most of the time I'll be at a desk so I'd like a docking station and two monitors, keyboard, mouse.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    2.  I'm sold on solid state drives.  I definitely need one or it needs to be the major drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other factors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1.  I'll be doing mostly C# programming (running Visual Studio). BUT I'll occasionally be doing some firmware programming (AVR) or debugging.&#xD;&#xA;    2.  Must be able to run Windows 10.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At my current job, I have a Lenovo W530.  The specs are:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;   Windows 7 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;   Intel Core I7-3740 QM CPU @2.76GHz&#xD;&#xA;   16 GB Ram&#xD;&#xA;   Samsung SSD 840 EVO 500GBytes&#xD;&#xA;   NVidia Quadr K100M Graphics AND&#xD;&#xA;   Intel HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA;   Also, a docking station which is at work right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This works pretty well and perhaps it's the way to go?  Although it's 3+ years old so I'm sure there's better stuff out there.  My only complaints have been I've run out of disk space, and I've occasionally had problems on running out of memory (we have some memory hog programs).  Other than that, it's been pretty solid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for a good laptop and docking station?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm sure there are questions such as 1) What kinds of graphics programs will it need to support or (2) exactly what kind of equipment will you be interfacing with.  I don't have the answers to those questions yet...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dave&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5794" RevisionGUID="847f475f-8c68-49fb-8e6b-b946a26a87c9" CreationDate="2016-09-19T19:49:21.643" UserId="4475" Text="Good PC laptop for work and docking station (must be dock-able)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5794" RevisionGUID="847f475f-8c68-49fb-8e6b-b946a26a87c9" CreationDate="2016-09-19T19:49:21.643" UserId="4475" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5795" RevisionGUID="4083d16a-da36-46eb-ac4b-51370ef0e1ba" CreationDate="2016-09-19T20:21:41.697" UserId="4209" Text="I can definitely say that a Lenovo is a great laptop for work from my own personal experience. I had a Lenovo and thoroughly enjoyed it.  Because businesses tend to buy new laptops only so often I would get a rather powerful one to start. The one I recommend is this: [Lenovo p70][1]. This laptop is very nice for productivity. Although it feels weird spending a lot on a laptop for your job, don't feel bad.  Your work understands that you require a nice laptop to be productive.  And definitely customize it to your needs if you can. It can dock on a laptop dock (sold separately of course). But you can also add a SSD. The dock can also be bought from Lenovo so everything is integrated perfectly. Hope this helps!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/p-series/p70/?menu-id=thinkpad_p70" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5796" RevisionGUID="81f78cf0-83e3-454e-8e77-bd493e741118" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:39:36.090" UserId="4507" Text="I am looking for the specified device. The use case is simple - I have an SSD-drive with linux and I use it both at home and at work. I'd prefer this to taking a notebook for different reasons, like low performace of mobile solutions, weight and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that all mobile racks I saw have chips which are completely useless. I had a couple of them and both had lower performance then when the drive is connected directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the moment I connect the drive with a pair of SATA/SATA power cables, passed through the front panel of chasises.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I'd like to make it more, let's say, fundamental.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is a rack without any logic, just direct connection to these two cables, no drivers, no anything. Sounds simple but I desperate to find it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I live in Russia, so shipping to this country is required." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16316" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5796" RevisionGUID="81f78cf0-83e3-454e-8e77-bd493e741118" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:39:36.090" UserId="4507" Text="HDD 2.5&quot; mobile rack without chipset, just direct connection to SATA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16317" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5796" RevisionGUID="81f78cf0-83e3-454e-8e77-bd493e741118" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:39:36.090" UserId="4507" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5798" RevisionGUID="e0225dd2-e58e-4470-a495-a928494ffb89" CreationDate="2016-09-19T22:19:59.830" UserId="3838" Text="The razer blade stealth supports connecting 16x PCIe graphics card through the USB-C port with external graphics card bays such as the razer core. I'm looking for a PCIe bay (through the usb-c port) so that I can plug in a network interface card, to give my laptop a high-speed connection to a NAS. Does such a thing exist? It would only need to have 4 lanes, would not need to have the power cables necessary for a desktop graphics card, and would be cheaper than the razer core ($500). If such a thing does not exist, is there an alternative way I could give my laptop a high speed connection to my network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16323" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5798" RevisionGUID="e0225dd2-e58e-4470-a495-a928494ffb89" CreationDate="2016-09-19T22:19:59.830" UserId="3838" Text="PCIe Network Card through USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16324" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5798" RevisionGUID="e0225dd2-e58e-4470-a495-a928494ffb89" CreationDate="2016-09-19T22:19:59.830" UserId="3838" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5798" RevisionGUID="d72450e0-40ce-4a94-b6a3-0196be47f74a" CreationDate="2016-09-19T22:35:38.297" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 122 characters in body" Text="The razer blade stealth supports connecting 16x PCIe graphics card through the USB-C port with external graphics card bays such as the razer core. I'm looking for a PCIe bay (through the usb-c port) so that I can plug in a network interface card, to give my laptop a high-speed connection to a NAS. Does such a thing exist? It would only need to have 4 lanes, would not need to have the power cables necessary for a desktop graphics card, and would be cheaper than the razer core ($500)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="21d36a0f-f953-43eb-9c50-83cf96cfe737" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:45:59.640" UserId="219" Text="I need a soundbar 30&quot; or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems [often seen in low end 2 channel systems &amp; TV's][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smallest 3 Channel system I could find is the [Vizio 3.0-Channel Soundbar with Bluetooth and Deep Bass Technology - Black SB3830-C6M][2] which shouldn't have the problem but it's 38&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At minimum it just needs to have Digital SPDIF Input for I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&amp;oq=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Vizio-3-0-Channel-Soundbar-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B00Z2XXEKI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="21d36a0f-f953-43eb-9c50-83cf96cfe737" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:45:59.640" UserId="219" Text="Soundbar 30&quot; or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="21d36a0f-f953-43eb-9c50-83cf96cfe737" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:45:59.640" UserId="219" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5800" RevisionGUID="666a5bcd-9265-42e4-b276-6dc796ab5478" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:53:53.343" UserId="219" Text="Not exactly a drone but more or less accomplishes most of the same thing. This thing is pretty awesome:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Site: http://www.varram.com/shopinfo/riley_en/index.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FkAjg.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/86itw.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16337" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="f220b90d-05f9-44ff-8c00-790df2230677" CreationDate="2016-09-20T09:52:59.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5803" RevisionGUID="b836f03f-b7d6-4fab-a8f3-e08ee50b0100" CreationDate="2016-09-20T14:02:16.800" UserId="4504" Text="[This seems to meet your needs, found on newegg.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at the picture, it looks like it takes 1 power connection and 2 sata cables. Its from newegg, so I'm assuming they ship to russia, but if they don't I found about 2 dozen sellers of this product on google. I hope this fits the bill, let me know if I need to change my google searches to find something else. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817998228&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Accessories%20-%20Hard%20Drive-_-N82E16817998228&amp;gclid=CNO866CNns8CFZSGfgod6zwE9Q&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16356" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="75fdee49-0c85-4e76-ae47-b0014be40b0a" CreationDate="2016-09-20T21:08:17.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5809" RevisionGUID="28f7940a-84fe-49fe-a3b9-7097fd19168d" CreationDate="2016-09-21T13:36:51.827" UserId="4504" Text="[I found this on newegg.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a brand of wireless equipment this is designed for outdoor use. It rated up to 158 degrees. It's also water resistant with an IP55 rating, meanint its resistant to dust and low pressure water from all angles.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If this model doesn't cut it for you, this company makes a wide range of outdoor rated networking tools.  &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;Also, another note. That tin wall is going to radiate heat like an oven. I would consider mounting a wooden block between the wall and the AP to act as a heat sink, it will absorb the heat from the metal wall, and reduce the risk of hitting the 158 degree threshold. *edit* I mention this because my minds eye had the access point on the outside wall of the garage, odd assumption to make...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168115" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="07dd4530-4071-4043-92a7-2b6967b208ca" CreationDate="2016-09-21T17:40:14.717" UserId="4520" Text="First question for me on this site, lets see how it goes.&#xD;&#xA;So i have this motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/B150M-A/&#xD;&#xA;With a i7 6700 CPU. Currently the Graphics card i have is to weak for the CPU really by far.&#xD;&#xA;My problem and question is will a large graphics card fit on that motherboard with 4 sata cables in use. If it can't can anyone recommend a fast gaming graphics card preferably Nvidia based i like Asus products and MSI that only takes up one case slot.&#xD;&#xA;My case is of no issue it is big and would handle a large motherboard and any G card i have seen fine it is just my mini atx motherboard that is the possible issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16365" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="07dd4530-4071-4043-92a7-2b6967b208ca" CreationDate="2016-09-21T17:40:14.717" UserId="4520" Text="Will a graphics card that takes up two motherboard/case slots so a big one fit on this motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16366" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="07dd4530-4071-4043-92a7-2b6967b208ca" CreationDate="2016-09-21T17:40:14.717" UserId="4520" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16367" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="8787c033-0ab6-4060-9d1f-bb37599252fb" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:02:35.993" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="821db9cc-287d-4b3f-89ba-dab58ed8f899" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:08:45.467" UserId="4521" Text="I have a decent &quot;Flat Glass&quot; CRT SD TV which I believe supports 480p Component Input.  I recall playing SOCOM II on PS2 with component cables and enabling that mode.  Anyway, I have some older computers and laptops, and looking to use this old TV as a monitor for emulation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a device or solution which would add minimal lag since I'm planning to do some GBA/SNES Emulation.  I'm open to outputting VGA from my laptop and converting that instead.  Sound isn't an issue, as I can just use the mini-jack for that.  Also, if important, I'm planning to use a Debian Linux based system, probably a version of Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any hardware ideas or solutions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16369" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="821db9cc-287d-4b3f-89ba-dab58ed8f899" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:08:45.467" UserId="4521" Text="Looking for an adapter to go from HDMI to RCA Component 480p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16370" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="821db9cc-287d-4b3f-89ba-dab58ed8f899" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:08:45.467" UserId="4521" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="6ecc5d08-d5ed-4b84-8d4b-dee8732f7741" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:09:33.010" UserId="4520" Comment="deleted 207 characters in body; edited title" Text="First question for me on this site, lets see how it goes.&#xD;&#xA;So i have this motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/B150M-A/&#xD;&#xA;Could someone recommend me a powerful graphics card, GTX1070 or something similar that would fit due to the fact my board is mini atx with 4 sata ports in use. What ones are there that will fit?&#xD;&#xA;If someone could find a powerful single case slot g card. Preferably Nvidia based Asus or MSI that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16372" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="6ecc5d08-d5ed-4b84-8d4b-dee8732f7741" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:09:33.010" UserId="4520" Comment="deleted 207 characters in body; edited title" Text="Reccomend me a powerful graphics card that will work with my motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16373" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5716" RevisionGUID="ba5f94a0-1095-4a7a-9cd9-0e316c389950" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:18:10.937" UserId="2086" Comment="added 51 characters in body" Text="I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: [Skylake microarchitecture][1]. So skylake is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's sucks because when I play overwatch I do not get 60 fps. Also the CPU is maxed out at 100%. I also do recording. This is my current CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320&#xD;&#xA;32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some CPU comes with GPU already on the same slot. I have no idea what it is for given that I already have a good GPU on my main board. So if that extra GPU on CPU cost more money I would rather a GPU less CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my belarc advisor result&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System Windows 10 Professional (x64) Version 1511 (build 10586.545)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 8/7/2016 10:53:51 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Servicing Branch: Current Branch for Business (CBB)&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported)&#xD;&#xA;    System Model ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;    Processor a 3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320&#xD;&#xA;    32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded&#xD;&#xA;    Main Circuit Board b Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 400 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011&#xD;&#xA;    Drives 1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    510.09 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3&#xD;&#xA;    ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Modules c,d 8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'A1_DIMM1' has 4096 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'A1_DIMM3' has 4096 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Local Drive Volumes&#xD;&#xA;    				&#xD;&#xA;    c: (NTFS on drive 1) * 	255.27 GB 	32.86 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    d: (NTFS on drive 0) 	105 MB 	31 MB free 		&#xD;&#xA;    e: (NTFS on drive 2) 	500.11 GB 	382.16 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    f: (NTFS on drive 0) 	209 MB 	136 MB free 		&#xD;&#xA;    g: (NTFS on drive 0) 	265.19 GB 	64.00 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    h: (NTFS on drive 0) 	734.70 GB 	30.90 GB free 		BitLocker†&#xD;&#xA;    * Operating System is installed on c:&#xD;&#xA;    † Encrypted volume.&#xD;&#xA;    Network Drives None detected&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also want high performance per price ratio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16374" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="354056d7-0e5a-4fca-8f70-dc7e05f59f41" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:19:18.663" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16375" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="28adcf2e-860d-4ca9-8548-acc444389a1e" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:20:16.083" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 24 characters in body" Text="First question for me on this site, lets see how it goes.&#xD;&#xA;So i have this motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/B150M-A/&#xD;&#xA;Could someone recommend me a powerful graphics card, GTX1070 or something similar that would fit due to the fact my board is mini atx with 4 sata ports in use. What ones are there that will fit?&#xD;&#xA;If someone could find a powerful single case slot g card. Preferably Nvidia based Asus or MSI that would be great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16376" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="048204bc-aa9f-4573-a68b-d1ecbacca2e2" CreationDate="2016-09-21T18:20:18.893" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="7737d695-9ac9-434c-bacf-6caaf2f3d298" CreationDate="2016-09-21T19:38:15.297" UserId="4521" Comment="Added a summary at the top, hopefully my question is acceptable now." Text="**Request:** I want a box which converts from HDMI or VGA to Component 480p without introducing noticeable lag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Additional information which describes my situation:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a decent &quot;Flat Glass&quot; CRT SD TV which I believe supports 480p Component Input.  I recall playing SOCOM II on PS2 with component cables and enabling that mode.  Anyway, I have some older computers and laptops, and looking to use this old TV as a monitor for emulation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a device or solution which would add minimal lag since I'm planning to do some GBA/SNES Emulation.  I'm open to outputting VGA from my laptop and converting that instead.  Sound isn't an issue, as I can just use the mini-jack for that.  Also, if important, I'm planning to use a Debian Linux based system, probably a version of Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any hardware ideas or solutions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5809" RevisionGUID="cc7c9ef6-1864-4ed5-9b91-ded0c081051e" CreationDate="2016-09-21T19:53:19.813" UserId="155" Comment="included product name" Text="I found the [EnGenius ENS202 N300][1] on Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a brand of wireless equipment this is designed for outdoor use. It rated up to 158 degrees. It's also water resistant with an IP55 rating, meanint its resistant to dust and low pressure water from all angles.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If this model doesn't cut it for you, this company makes a wide range of outdoor rated networking tools.  &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;Also, another note. That tin wall is going to radiate heat like an oven. I would consider mounting a wooden block between the wall and the AP to act as a heat sink, it will absorb the heat from the metal wall, and reduce the risk of hitting the 158 degree threshold. *edit* I mention this because my minds eye had the access point on the outside wall of the garage, odd assumption to make...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168115" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5812" RevisionGUID="b38f11fc-932b-43d2-acab-75ba828d4b09" CreationDate="2016-09-21T20:19:57.167" UserId="241" Text="There's not much in the way of powerful single-slot graphics cards out there -- I could find a [GTX 750 Ti][1], but that's a mid-range card, and getting somewhat old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going the other direction to avoid running in to your SATA cables, Gigabyte makes [short two-slot GTX 1070][3] and [GTX 1060][4] cards: the card is just barely longer than the PCIe connector.  You may need to move one of your SATA cables from port 3 to port 6, but everything should still work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you're willing to go to extreme effort to get extreme performance, Zotac makes a [GTX 1080 with a low-profile integrated waterblock][2].  You'll need to set up a watercooling system to go with it, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127836&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500406&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125893&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125903&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5814" RevisionGUID="f6842bbe-39a5-443b-9135-ccae7d965e6c" CreationDate="2016-09-22T08:17:01.073" UserId="4526" Text="It seems that, in the pursuit of thinness, major manufacturers have stopped making laptops with quality keyboards and now they all give you a chiclet keyboard except on high end gaming laptops. That's unfortunate, because I plan to use my laptop to type a lot, not to touch the screen, and I'll need to carry it on my back for miles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please prove me wrong and tell me there's a laptop with a 6th generation Core i5/7 in it AND a quality keyboard AND which isn't a bulky gaming laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5814" RevisionGUID="f6842bbe-39a5-443b-9135-ccae7d965e6c" CreationDate="2016-09-22T08:17:01.073" UserId="4526" Text="Laptop with tapered keys (i.e. not chiclets) OTHER than gaming laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5814" RevisionGUID="f6842bbe-39a5-443b-9135-ccae7d965e6c" CreationDate="2016-09-22T08:17:01.073" UserId="4526" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16395" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="5456" RevisionGUID="2c9b98a0-2e94-4cdb-9dd2-dd533f310f1e" CreationDate="2016-09-22T14:54:44.510" UserId="-1" Comment="41" />
  <row Id="16396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5817" RevisionGUID="ec0c5df5-0051-4f27-81be-e839f2b9ca35" CreationDate="2016-09-22T15:32:56.753" UserId="3836" Text="I recommend the **[Asus Turbo GTX-1070 8gb][1]**. It's the cheapest Asus/MSI 1070 out there, and its blower cooling might actually be of some benefit to you unless you have more fans in your case than the default number it came with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a very long card, but it will fit in your case and one of the two 6/8 PSU cables you have will power it. Furthermore, while it will &quot;cover&quot; 2 of your SATA ports, 4 will be wide open, which is the requirement. I put scare quotes around &quot;cover&quot; because in my experience those ports are still definitely usable, you just have to put the cables in before the card. *Sometimes* you might need to use right-angle SATA cables, but those aren't hard to come by; at least one probably shipped with your motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR this WILL work with your current PC setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.outletpc.com/vb9429-asus-geforce-turbo-gtx1070-8gb.html?utm_source=vb9429-asus-geforce-turbo-gtx1070-8gb&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Asus%2B-%2BVideo%20Cards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16397" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5810" RevisionGUID="8c15e8f9-7079-4ff4-8d8e-11b34f295ca8" CreationDate="2016-09-22T15:35:49.810" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Recommend me a powerful graphics card that will work with my motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5788" RevisionGUID="51ea1abc-206b-4e66-9069-fd30e9b7de8a" CreationDate="2016-09-22T16:01:03.457" UserId="4502" Comment="Asked for alternatives." Text="To be clear: I haven't bought anything yet, so I figure this is a hardware recommendation question. The point is that I don't want to buy hardware with too much built-in obsolescence.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at a replacement for some aging Drobos. I like the look of the small Synology 2.5in desktop (for reasons of space) and wondered if anyone had experience with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I want to start out using 4x1Tb drives, and then when the price drops (assumption!) in 2-3 years time swap them out (gradually, 1 at a time over a week or so) for 2 or 3Tb drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that Synology has SHR (?) that will let me do this, but that until all the drives have been replaced with larger drives the overall volume will remain at 4Tb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the case? Are there any gotcha's I should know about?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is Synology the way to go, or should I be looking at other hardware options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16399" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5818" RevisionGUID="1119a137-4765-4ca1-a27b-c235bfc4e546" CreationDate="2016-09-22T17:28:45.507" UserId="4206" Text="I want to run a dual Xeon E5-2670 setup for my personal machine. I can't decide between the right motherboard for the system. My goal is too get as much processing power as possible for the lowest amount of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Asrock Rack EP2C602 - but this is pricey &#xD;&#xA; 2. SuperMicro X9DRT-P LGA 2011/Dual Socket R - crazy form factor, not sure how to put it&#xD;&#xA;    in a case&#xD;&#xA; 3. ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Dual LGA 2011 Intel C602  - Super&#xD;&#xA;    Cheap, which is    scary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Advice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16400" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5818" RevisionGUID="1119a137-4765-4ca1-a27b-c235bfc4e546" CreationDate="2016-09-22T17:28:45.507" UserId="4206" Text="Taking advantage of Xeon E5-2670 prices and need a Motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16401" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5818" RevisionGUID="1119a137-4765-4ca1-a27b-c235bfc4e546" CreationDate="2016-09-22T17:28:45.507" UserId="4206" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5819" RevisionGUID="12f9dc5b-6e62-405d-b9c8-fd997747cbf8" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:38:24.450" UserId="1197" Text="I am looking for a single board computer with 2x1 GBit ethernet ports, on board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should come with SATA and/or USB 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either x86 or ARM is ok, as long as it runs Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5819" RevisionGUID="12f9dc5b-6e62-405d-b9c8-fd997747cbf8" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:38:24.450" UserId="1197" Text="Single board computer with 2 GBit ehternet ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5819" RevisionGUID="12f9dc5b-6e62-405d-b9c8-fd997747cbf8" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:38:24.450" UserId="1197" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16405" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5819" RevisionGUID="e2a80748-41de-458d-9e7f-4b1046685cb5" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:43:58.407" UserId="1197" Comment="fix typo" Text="Single board computer with 2 GBit ethernet ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="ed992485-f225-4b9b-9141-7fda6881c939" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:23:33.587" UserId="2416" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (but were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody who apparently knowS what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR)&#xD;&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="ed992485-f225-4b9b-9141-7fda6881c939" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:23:33.587" UserId="2416" Text="External HDD or SSD for booting operating system from" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="ed992485-f225-4b9b-9141-7fda6881c939" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:23:33.587" UserId="2416" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="4938a010-222e-4a14-bcbb-de724dc06f7b" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:30:19.710" UserId="2416" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody who apparently knows what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more.&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).&#xD;&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16410" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="3c3a53a5-e9a5-4fa8-9037-13e40c667091" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:42:25.843" UserId="2416" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody who apparently knows what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more.&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).&#xD;&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be good if answers explained *why* the suggested product is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16411" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="db7eb356-e56c-4c62-b42f-8deeb4f4aed3" CreationDate="2016-09-23T01:06:05.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16414" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5818" RevisionGUID="30282a67-4098-45a1-b450-ea29c6566ff5" CreationDate="2016-09-23T03:09:58.273" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16415" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="b5597e73-5832-4895-b700-d9cf8be0ae94" CreationDate="2016-09-23T06:16:18.673" UserId="2416" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody who apparently knows what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more.&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be good if answers explained *why* the suggested product is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5821" RevisionGUID="77f28845-c850-4e64-b339-eab2bd9c536f" CreationDate="2016-09-23T06:27:41.227" UserId="3836" Text="I'll recommend the **Transcend 256GB USB 3.0 External Solid State Drive, TS256GESD400K**. This is an SSD in a USB 3.0 external enclosure. SSDs will help with write and read seek times, as well as proving generally more tolerant of drops and heat. The 256Gb size is on the small side, but this is just about the fastest product you can hope to get for your price point on the USB 3.0 interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what it's worth, I'm slightly mystified by your troubles with booting OSes off USB 3.0 flash drives. I use one that uses [Easy2Boot][1] to store about four or five linux OSes, along with WindowsPE, Windows 10, and DOS. The only trouble I ever had with my connection speeds was RemixOS; that wouldn't start on my flash drive if it was plugged into USB 2.0 for some reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.easy2boot.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5825" RevisionGUID="e5732b59-8ada-4719-af50-591c44d5ac61" CreationDate="2016-09-23T13:49:11.113" UserId="1802" Text="After some considerations I have decided for HIKVISION platform. I chose that platform over DASHUA mostly because of better support in my country and better firmware upgrade program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Multiple platform (like DASHUA, HIKVISION, AVTECH etc.) cannot be mixed nowadays mostly because ONVIF G standard is not yet widely implemented. Some attempts like Ozeki SDK exist to unify surveillance devices in terms of universal software library, but downloading historical data is not supported on the DVR/NVR devices yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it is better option to buy a new hybrid DVR on every site and use one common software like iVMS 4200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such a device is either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HCVR5104/5108/5116HS-S3][1] with SmartPSS&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[DS-7204/7208/16HQHI-F1/N][2]&#xD;&#xA;with iVMS 4200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(which I chose).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/products/hcvr510451085116hs-s3-1425.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_accessries_364_i5791.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5825" RevisionGUID="23969a74-a2d1-489c-9c2f-065f0da7b7ff" CreationDate="2016-09-23T13:56:09.237" UserId="1802" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="After some considerations I have decided for HIKVISION platform. I chose that platform over DASHUA mostly because of better support in my country and better firmware upgrade program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Multiple platform (like DASHUA, HIKVISION, AVTECH etc.) cannot be mixed nowadays mostly because ONVIF G standard is not yet widely implemented. Some attempts like Ozeki SDK exist to unify surveillance devices in terms of universal software library, but downloading historical data is not supported on the DVR/NVR devices yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it is better option to buy a new hybrid DVR on every site and use one common software like iVMS 4200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such a device is either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HCVR5104/5108/5116HS-S3][1] with SmartPSS&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[DS-7204/7208/16HQHI-F1/N][2]&#xD;&#xA;with iVMS 4200 (which I chose).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope one day the ONVIF G gets implemented and there will be a decent SDK or unversal tools to use it with various devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/products/hcvr510451085116hs-s3-1425.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_accessries_364_i5791.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5826" RevisionGUID="6c6438b0-5ec2-4e8c-a249-05af0c210165" CreationDate="2016-09-23T14:38:35.700" UserId="4206" Text="I am trying to find what video cards support a quad monitor extended desktop in Xubuntu. I've been searching forums and help pages and can not find a definitive option for a video card in Xfce that works on 4,5 or 6 monitors. At a minimum I want to run 4 monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on a card that works in this environment?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16429" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5826" RevisionGUID="6c6438b0-5ec2-4e8c-a249-05af0c210165" CreationDate="2016-09-23T14:38:35.700" UserId="4206" Text="Video Card for Xubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16430" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5826" RevisionGUID="6c6438b0-5ec2-4e8c-a249-05af0c210165" CreationDate="2016-09-23T14:38:35.700" UserId="4206" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16441" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="a5f13e38-9b4d-4a71-9958-6cf83cfad787" CreationDate="2016-09-24T07:38:02.603" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5830" RevisionGUID="7dedfd33-77f4-45e2-80b7-dbf94d4c732d" CreationDate="2016-09-24T10:39:56.620" UserId="531" Text="There's apparently NUC style passively cooled machines meant for displays that would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stackexchange uses [something *very* similar internally][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been toying with [buying one of these][2] and it probably ticks off most of your boxes - *intel* ethernet, and 4 ports (realtek's a pain). I've run linux on a very similar platform. With the right variant, you got USB 3.0 + 2.5 inch drives, or msata &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So yeah, they exist and for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-scooter-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/QOTOM-Mini-PC-Q190G4-with-4-LAN-port-using-pfsense-as-small-router-firewall-fanless-PC/1000001826190.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16447" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="c343dc0d-a58c-45e7-883a-351b1d63df06" CreationDate="2016-09-24T12:41:02.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5832" RevisionGUID="f5c7dc07-c655-4daa-ae30-243e4ad35f12" CreationDate="2016-09-24T19:26:31.513" UserId="4476" Text="I'm looking for an decent quality UPS with a decent quality battery for a single Linux personal computer. So far, most power outages here have been very short--power lost for mere seconds--so I'm not concerned about continuous running on battery for even several minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor is always off since this is primarily accessed remotely from other boxes. The laser printer is usually on standby, and the PC is pretty much a standard desktop with two hard drives, a network card, and little else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ability for the PC to shutdown automatically would be nice, but it's not required since I expect the power to come back up long before the battery runs out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be nice would be to know how long to expect the battery to last, and if it's worth replacing the battery for the inexpensive ones or just buy another cheap unit next year or the year after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the past, I've spent $10 on each of these after rebate; nowadays, the lowest price I'm seeing is close to $40-$50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16452" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5832" RevisionGUID="f5c7dc07-c655-4daa-ae30-243e4ad35f12" CreationDate="2016-09-24T19:26:31.513" UserId="4476" Text="Most Economical Personal Computer UPS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16453" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5832" RevisionGUID="f5c7dc07-c655-4daa-ae30-243e4ad35f12" CreationDate="2016-09-24T19:26:31.513" UserId="4476" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5833" RevisionGUID="0dd1cb5e-6747-4652-805b-7625ea9a1a28" CreationDate="2016-09-24T20:14:55.437" UserId="4466" Text="There are USB 3 Type A male to USB Type C female adapters which allows me to plug in my flash disk at the same time.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABTHI7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In retrospect maybe I should have gotten a usb c male to usb type a female adapter and just use one of my existing flash drives instead of buying a type c flash disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/USB-Adapter-Converter-Connector-STANDARD/dp/B00ZVRHV2C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5835" RevisionGUID="f88cd78d-fd35-4dde-b397-80ef0820da07" CreationDate="2016-09-24T22:43:54.367" UserId="1512" Text="What is the most popular video game console that is legal to be modded and reverse engineered and preferably supported by Unity, Game Maker Studio or SDL2?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16465" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5835" RevisionGUID="f88cd78d-fd35-4dde-b397-80ef0820da07" CreationDate="2016-09-24T22:43:54.367" UserId="1512" Text="Popular game console that allows modding and reverse engineering" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16466" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5835" RevisionGUID="f88cd78d-fd35-4dde-b397-80ef0820da07" CreationDate="2016-09-24T22:43:54.367" UserId="1512" Text="&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16469" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5811" RevisionGUID="8f8c40d5-7e94-41d8-8b13-75094d6cfd59" CreationDate="2016-09-25T10:15:46.520" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16475" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="ba91c613-3ce6-4044-9912-3b43568e877f" CreationDate="2016-09-25T19:25:21.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16479" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="0ddc0212-d3f0-4feb-ab6a-41f05cac24f4" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:27:06.513" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5837" RevisionGUID="08396fa3-6207-4a65-983e-01e6ba86b628" CreationDate="2016-09-25T22:12:24.070" UserId="4476" Text="I ended up getting an APC Back-UPS 450VA BN450M costing approximately $50, but it was on sale for $10 off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've plugged-in the PC into the surge+battery and left everything else in the original surge protector for now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5838" RevisionGUID="c64dbc39-67c4-4d1a-868d-0b19d75b21cb" CreationDate="2016-09-26T00:38:31.680" UserId="3836" Text="I do not know everything there is to know about video signals, but given that your TV probably only takes analog inputs, I'm going to suggest the **[White PC VGA to AV TV RCA S-Video Converter Switch Box Adapter][1]** here. Not only is this cheaper than HDMI alternatives, it has a better chance (in my imperfect opinion) of having less latency, because converting VGA to RCA signal is a totally analog process and so (I'm guessing) much simpler to do. I also like that you can power it from a USB port; a nice bonus feature that makes the whole setup a little less byzantine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are HDMI to VGA/3.5mm converter boxes out there, but the ones I could find mentioned ~1s latency, which I would find unacceptable for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7324SK1187&amp;cm_re=vga_to_rca_converter_cable-_-2VR-001J-00029-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16485" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="2aaf1ae4-1629-497f-8d01-2a3bc96cd336" CreationDate="2016-09-26T04:33:09.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16486" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="3d2fc383-d2ae-4e94-8b42-505796cb805f" CreationDate="2016-09-26T06:45:06.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5839" RevisionGUID="18ee8062-61b3-4283-a10f-669afc1220b6" CreationDate="2016-09-26T08:03:43.863" UserId="2086" Text="My current motherboard have failed bios update.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got to change motherboard&#xD;&#xA;The important specs are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    Gtx 1060 video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old motherboard is ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I  need a motherboard with the same slot for video card intel core etc. I need something that will work right off the bat without bios update. I want the system to be used at it's optimum. For example, I wonder if the clock frequency of the motherboard should be the same with the clock frequency of the i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Professional (x64) (build 10240)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 10/2/2015 2:25:25 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Servicing Branch: Current Branch (CB)&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported) &#xD;&#xA;    Operating System &#xD;&#xA;    ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Enclosure Type: Desktop &#xD;&#xA;    System Model &#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;    Processor a &#xD;&#xA;    Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 400 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011 &#xD;&#xA;    Main Circuit Board b &#xD;&#xA;    1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    525.79 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-222BB [Optical drive]&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3&#xD;&#xA;    ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy &#xD;&#xA;    Drives &#xD;&#xA;    8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5839" RevisionGUID="18ee8062-61b3-4283-a10f-669afc1220b6" CreationDate="2016-09-26T08:03:43.863" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me a good motherboard for my PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5839" RevisionGUID="18ee8062-61b3-4283-a10f-669afc1220b6" CreationDate="2016-09-26T08:03:43.863" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16490" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5840" RevisionGUID="44b7069b-cef3-4b06-aaa4-3a3dbbcfbc21" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:44:15.153" UserId="4543" Text="my dad's computer broke recently and when he took it in for repair the guy said it was the motherboard and it was going to cost hundreds of pounds to get a replacement. It is an HP Pavillion P6-2280EA system a few years old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I told him (perhaps a little overconfidently) that i could replace it much cheaper no problem. Now [i have looked at the spec][1] i am not so sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not that familiar with the uATX form factor. Isn't it pretty much the same thing as mATX or am i way off?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a decent and not too pricey replacement for [this mobo][2]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c03381123&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docLocale=en_US&amp;docId=emr_na-c03135925" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16491" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5840" RevisionGUID="44b7069b-cef3-4b06-aaa4-3a3dbbcfbc21" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:44:15.153" UserId="4543" Text="Replacement motherboard for an HP Pavilion P6-2280EA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16492" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5840" RevisionGUID="44b7069b-cef3-4b06-aaa4-3a3dbbcfbc21" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:44:15.153" UserId="4543" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="771395c7-fdaa-4266-9388-7ef564be87d4" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:35:04.843" UserId="4544" Text="I'm looking for &quot;NVIDIA Jetson TX1&quot; module alternatives for 360 video capturing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;main requirements - 3 or more 4 line mipi-csi with ability to transfer 4k from each camera and sata or 10g ethernet phy to transfer video to storage.&#xD;&#xA;Also size, weight and price should be minimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16494" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="771395c7-fdaa-4266-9388-7ef564be87d4" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:35:04.843" UserId="4544" Text="dev board with 3 or more mipi-csi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16495" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="771395c7-fdaa-4266-9388-7ef564be87d4" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:35:04.843" UserId="4544" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16496" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5842" RevisionGUID="fa2d075d-fc93-4465-b751-21d0f865c267" CreationDate="2016-09-26T14:24:32.427" UserId="4504" Text="On the high end / Price range - You could always try [ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155][1]. PCpartpicker doesn't indicate that the bios will need to be updated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Intel DH67BLB3 Micro ATX LGA1155][2] is a good micri ATX option. Its doesn't have as many sata ports as the ASRock, but it looks like there are enough to support your current build. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If these two options don't the bill. I would head over to pcpartpicker and put in your entire system minus the motherboard and see what options are compatible.  For a motherboard, I would try to stay in the realm of name brand and grab something with good reviews. Personally I'm a fan of MSI boards, don't know why. I've always used them for my intel builds and they seem to hold up well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the end of the day, there are alot of things you need to consider, form factor &amp; sata ports &amp; compatibility being the main things. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/VvMFf7/asrock-motherboard-z77extreme4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/bCR48d/intel-motherboard-boxdh67blb3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16497" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="c9104c40-deba-47f6-8f3f-7e9ec26d8a20" CreationDate="2016-09-26T14:56:06.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5843" RevisionGUID="5845553e-4a55-4b42-a009-f4a176897b8e" CreationDate="2016-09-26T16:23:59.220" UserId="4523" Text="On Ebay(usa) the motherboard in question is listed from $150(us) and up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've read on the wikipedia page on microATX [link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MicroATX)  µATX, mATX, and uATX are the same thing.  Possibly the HP boards may be a little of the standard microATX specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time I am writing this the exchange rate for USD to British Pound is $1USD = .77Pound.  So it may be around 115 Pounds for the board.  Not sure what the guy is charging for labor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be really good to know is information on the chassis/case.  HP used to be all proprietary and have chassis/cases you could not put just any board in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other things to note however.  As stated in the following link, some manufacturers use custom front panel connections that you may have to modify to use with an off the shelf board.  [aforementioned link](http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/303250-31-pavillion-case-build-desk)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps, even if is not the answer you were looking for.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16499" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5840" RevisionGUID="a24347ee-bc07-41c1-bd57-90e8d6ac5a05" CreationDate="2016-09-26T16:31:07.720" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16507" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="7f11e64b-149e-46f3-9ba6-9675b84ac598" CreationDate="2016-09-26T21:03:08.783" UserId="2416" Comment="edited body" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone who apparently knows what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more.&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3&#xD;&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be good if answers explained *why* the suggested product is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16508" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5620" RevisionGUID="231a4668-ce4b-4c02-a4bd-d01d8401d98a" CreationDate="2016-09-26T23:16:31.987" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5839" RevisionGUID="12de540c-feca-4c38-a223-056f508db4cd" CreationDate="2016-09-27T02:39:40.257" UserId="2086" Comment="added 199 characters in body" Text="My current motherboard have failed bios update.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got to change motherboard&#xD;&#xA;The important specs are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    Gtx 1060 video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old motherboard is ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I  need a motherboard with the same slot for video card intel core etc. I need something that will work right off the bat without bios update. I want the system to be used at it's optimum. For example, I wonder if the clock frequency of the motherboard should be the same with the clock frequency of the i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Professional (x64) (build 10240)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 10/2/2015 2:25:25 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Servicing Branch: Current Branch (CB)&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported) &#xD;&#xA;    Operating System &#xD;&#xA;    ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Enclosure Type: Desktop &#xD;&#xA;    System Model &#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;    Processor a &#xD;&#xA;    Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 400 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011 &#xD;&#xA;    Main Circuit Board b &#xD;&#xA;    1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    525.79 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-222BB [Optical drive]&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3&#xD;&#xA;    ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy &#xD;&#xA;    Drives &#xD;&#xA;    8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other restrictions, I want popular ones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can fit 16 GB memory. 4 sata port is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want cost effective. So it should be a good motherboard. Should be roomy enough unlike my  ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If possible I want to know my memory frequency and pick a motherboard with the exact same frequency so no wasted power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16511" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5846" RevisionGUID="1f928382-1da5-42cd-9157-871dbee2d75e" CreationDate="2016-09-27T07:44:04.540" UserId="3836" Text="Insofar as a *Steam Machine* is a game console and is sold into that space, Steam Machines running plain SteamOS or Windows are supported by Unity and Game Maker Studio. As they are computers, they can be modded, and insofar as open source linux software like much of SteamOS goes, it can be &quot;reverse-engineered&quot; without much difficulty. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where this kind of falls down is &quot;popular&quot; - there are really only two or three consoles that are actually &quot;popular&quot; - Xboxes, Playstations, and the Nintendo Wii U. Steam Boxes are a niche product, though they are widely popularly known. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, one good example of a moddable steam machine would be the **[Maingear Drift Steam Machine][1]**. It's basically constructed out of off-the-shelf components and runs SteamOS without Windows, removing concerns one might have about inadvertently stepping on MS's toes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.maingear.com/custom/sff/steamos/index.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5840" RevisionGUID="0d3b0826-76bb-443b-9ed2-9b6d88410792" CreationDate="2016-09-27T09:38:34.697" UserId="4543" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="my dad's computer broke recently and when he took it in for repair the guy said it was the motherboard and it was going to cost hundreds of pounds to get a replacement. It is an HP Pavillion P6-2280EA system a few years old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I told him (perhaps a little overconfidently) that i could replace it much cheaper no problem. Now [i have looked at the spec][1] i am not so sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not that familiar with the uATX form factor. Isn't it pretty much the same thing as mATX or am i way off?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a decent and not too pricey replacement for [this mobo][2]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This one looks pretty similar][3] to me. Any thoughts on whether it would be a match?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c03381123&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docLocale=en_US&amp;docId=emr_na-c03135925&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122134011446?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5842" RevisionGUID="bb297ca8-e83b-40fe-85d6-197cb337e63e" CreationDate="2016-09-27T14:02:02.087" UserId="4504" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="On the high end / Price range - You could always try [ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155][1]. PCpartpicker doesn't indicate that the bios will need to be updated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Intel DH67BLB3 Micro ATX LGA1155][2] is a good micri ATX option. Its doesn't have as many sata ports as the ASRock, but it looks like there are enough to support your current build. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If these two options don't fit the bill. I would head over to pcpartpicker and put in your entire system minus the motherboard and see what options are compatible.  For a motherboard, I would try to stay in the realm of name brand and grab something with good reviews. Personally I'm a fan of MSI boards, don't know why. I've always used them for my intel builds and they seem to hold up well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the end of the day, there are alot of things you need to consider, form factor &amp; sata ports &amp; compatibility being the main things. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/VvMFf7/asrock-motherboard-z77extreme4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/bCR48d/intel-motherboard-boxdh67blb3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5852" RevisionGUID="f4d6e1b6-28db-46ee-9bff-34e01603af1b" CreationDate="2016-09-27T18:34:30.233" UserId="2187" Text="Do you need any graphics acceleration? You could use multiple USB to VGA adapters if you are only using non graphics intensive apps. It is a cheap and easy solution. [This guy on Ask Ubuntu][1] reported that the [UltraVideo® USB 2.0 to DVI-I or VGA Video Adapter][2] works fine on Ubuntu 14.04, although it is slow with the effects. You can try one before committing to buy multiple, since YMMV with those adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/251500/usb-display-adapter-with-linux-ubuntu-drivers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.accellcables.com/products/ultravideo-usb-2-0-to-dvi-i-or-vga-video-adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16538" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="f6b5fa83-8f71-4d01-b75d-5b7cbb8e8a2e" CreationDate="2016-09-27T23:22:22.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16543" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5584" RevisionGUID="692ba816-2cbf-4fa4-a005-3802480df977" CreationDate="2016-09-28T01:24:50.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5839" RevisionGUID="e301a603-61e4-4201-9e82-914cb6d7b31d" CreationDate="2016-09-28T03:44:43.407" UserId="2086" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="My current motherboard have failed bios update.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got to change motherboard&#xD;&#xA;The important specs are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    Gtx 1060 video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old motherboard is ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I  need a motherboard with the same slot for video card intel core etc. I need something that will work right off the bat without bios update. I want the system to be used at it's optimum. For example, I wonder if the clock frequency of the motherboard should be the same with the clock frequency of the i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Professional (x64) (build 10240)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 10/2/2015 2:25:25 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Servicing Branch: Current Branch (CB)&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported) &#xD;&#xA;    Operating System &#xD;&#xA;    ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Enclosure Type: Desktop &#xD;&#xA;    System Model &#xD;&#xA;    3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770&#xD;&#xA;    32 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (4 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded &#xD;&#xA;    Processor a &#xD;&#xA;    Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 400 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011 &#xD;&#xA;    Main Circuit Board b &#xD;&#xA;    1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    525.79 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-222BB [Optical drive]&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3&#xD;&#xA;    ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy &#xD;&#xA;    Drives &#xD;&#xA;    8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other restrictions, I want popular ones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can fit 16 GB memory. 4 sata port is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want cost effective. So it should be a good motherboard. Should be roomy enough unlike my  ECS H61H2-M12 1.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If possible I want to know my memory frequency and pick a motherboard with the exact same frequency so no wasted power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also in indonesia the popular motherboard is either asus or gigabyte. Others are fine but please explain why." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="62db3671-778c-44bd-bd21-69b6bc5421c0" CreationDate="2016-09-28T04:33:49.140" UserId="4558" Text="My old VGA (NVIDIA GTX 660 2GB) is broken. I'd like to buy a new one. Better than my old VGA. What I'd like to know are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Best VGA recommendation suited my mother board (the cheapest one, NVIDIA, minimal 4GB, for gaming purpose)&#xD;&#xA; - Best VGA manufacturer for NVIDIA (and AMD if you know about it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;p.s : My PC only can't be turned on more than a second. It immediately turned off. when I removed my VGA, it turned on normally. The problem definitely the VGA, isn't it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i3 Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-C motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 2x 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS NVDIA GTX 660 VGA Card&#xD;&#xA; - Enermax 500W PS unit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16550" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="62db3671-778c-44bd-bd21-69b6bc5421c0" CreationDate="2016-09-28T04:33:49.140" UserId="4558" Text="Which VGA Card is best suited for ASUS H81M-C motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16551" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="62db3671-778c-44bd-bd21-69b6bc5421c0" CreationDate="2016-09-28T04:33:49.140" UserId="4558" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5857" RevisionGUID="0f84feaf-e18a-4593-ad66-e5df9574b6b7" CreationDate="2016-09-28T08:02:30.553" UserId="4560" Text="I'm needing to print, on-demand (or relatively so), a few dozen ID badges and/or hard/transparent &quot;business card&quot; or &quot;gift card&quot;-like cards.  Ideally, they should be full-color and fairly durable as they will be intended to be worn often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They won't need magnetic strips or chips, just any sort of hard plastic card-shaped thing that can be printed on in relatively high detail; they'll be for visual identification only, with a barcode at most.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google searches seem to give services that do bulk printing of cards, or expensive enterprise-level card writers that encode magnetic strips or chips in addition to printing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just want to be able to print on hard plastic surfaces, ideally spending less than $1000 on the hardware.  I'm sure there's a solution somewhere, but can't seem to find it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5857" RevisionGUID="0f84feaf-e18a-4593-ad66-e5df9574b6b7" CreationDate="2016-09-28T08:02:30.553" UserId="4560" Text="Most reasonable printer for hard plastic ID badges / business cards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5857" RevisionGUID="0f84feaf-e18a-4593-ad66-e5df9574b6b7" CreationDate="2016-09-28T08:02:30.553" UserId="4560" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5858" RevisionGUID="de4477ee-1d47-4dd8-ad14-f03d2f402ac2" CreationDate="2016-09-28T12:43:10.030" UserId="3836" Text="I say get the [Da Vinci Mini 3D printer][1], use that to print out plastic backings with a lip, and then print out stickers to put on top on a full-color inkjet printer of any description. You're looking at a total cost of well under $500, plus you get a much more versatile bit of kit into the bargain.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-Mini?gclid=Cj0KEQjw1K2_BRC0s6jtgJzB-aMBEiQA-WzDMaw1ftaDHJ7GsbINoP_FOYpRCstQJsRvzppyZmgsnCAaAgM88P8HAQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16560" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="eaa43852-ad1f-4528-8e33-aa5928826992" CreationDate="2016-09-28T13:24:23.633" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5860" RevisionGUID="ddde9e17-4e06-428e-bcd7-d123cd4dbb91" CreationDate="2016-09-28T17:03:00.487" UserId="3836" Text="Any Nvidia, Intel (CPU+motherboard), or AMD GPU with a displayport technology level above 1.2 ought to work, at least with the proprietary drivers. The problem is making sure that you have the right cable connections - in some cases, active adapters and/or MST hubs may be needed to make all 4+ monitors work reliably. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I had to recommend a GPU for you, I'd tell you to look at the **[Sapphire R7 250 Eyefinity Edition][1]**. You can connect two monitors to the DVI and HDMI ports, then add two or more displays using a splitter cable off the Display Port. Note that Sapphire claims it supports 3 displays in the tech specs, but the Eyefinity spec from AMD claims any GPU with that moniker supports 6. I believe this disparity is due to the fact Sapphire isn't including a DP splitter cable; such cards *do* work with up to six displays, as long as those displays don't exceed the total number of pixels each output is capable of pushing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatives on the Nvidia side are similar, if somewhat more expensive on average. The company really tries to push its Quadro NVS cards if you look at their official documentation, but at least in Windows I have experience using GTX cards with DP outputs to connect up to eight monitors successfully. I don't recommend that setup only because getting those cards to work in Windows was never as successful as with the AMD cards, and the many weird issues I encountered make me hesitate to recommend it for Linux, where support tends to be even more wonky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last thing I would like to mention is that unless space/energy is at a premium, it almost never makes sense to go with the NVS/Firepro solutions both companies offer up. These cards are expensive, inadequately cooled, and unecessary, because in reality you can just keep adding GPUs to computers and running additional displays off them without issues, so long as you have the bus connections (PCI-E normally, in this day and age). Thus in a computer with an Intel HD 4000 GPU on the CPU die connected to a DVI, HDMI, and DP out, adding two of the R7 250 Eyefinity edition GPUs above would allow that computer to push *at least* 3 displays on the Intel chip + 6 more on each GPU, for a total of 15 1080p displays. Any limits on that number discovered are more likely to be the fault of the OS than anything else, AFAIK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=AT-R250ETY&amp;c=CJ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="9cae7f83-b881-4eaf-b890-9591096fdcc1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T17:56:32.520" UserId="4558" Comment="added 379 characters in body" Text="My old VGA (NVIDIA GTX 660 2GB) is broken. I'd like to buy a new one.Better than my old VGA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to know are:&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Best VGA recommendation suited my mother board&#xD;&#xA; - Best VGA manufacturer for NVIDIA (and AMD if you know about it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC can't be turned on more than a second. It immediately turned off. When I removed my VGA, it turned on normally. I have tried 3 other VGA card. Two of them are working fine and my computer turned on normally. The other one give me problem like my old VGA. I haven't tried to change the PSU or have my friend try my VGA yet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i3 Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-C motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 2x 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS NVDIA GTX 660 VGA Card&#xD;&#xA; - Enermax 500W PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The VGA I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce (any manufacturer, preferably well-known one)&#xD;&#xA; - Better than current VGA (Higher than GTX 660)&#xD;&#xA; - Minimal of 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - For gaming (primary) and video editing purpose.&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonable Price&#xD;&#xA; - Long lasting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="2a506edb-1895-4d14-8c3f-a7fdcea3d88b" CreationDate="2016-09-28T20:36:43.747" UserId="60" Comment="Updated tags. Cleaned up grammar and the flow of the question." Text="My old graphics card (NVIDIA GTX 660 2GB) is broken. I'd like to buy a new one that is better than my old card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC can't be turned on more than a second. It immediately turns off. When I removed my graphics card, it starts up normally. I have tried 3 other cards. Two of them are working fine and my computer turned on normally. The other one gives me problems like my old card. I haven't tried to change the PSU or have my friend try my old card yet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i3 Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-C motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 2x 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS NVDIA GTX 660 VGA Card&#xD;&#xA; - Enermax 500W PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The graphics card I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce (any manufacturer, preferably well-known one)&#xD;&#xA; - Better than current card (Higher than GTX 660)&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum of 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably Priced&#xD;&#xA; - Long lasting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using this card primarily for gaming and video editing purposes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16575" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="2a506edb-1895-4d14-8c3f-a7fdcea3d88b" CreationDate="2016-09-28T20:36:43.747" UserId="60" Comment="Updated tags. Cleaned up grammar and the flow of the question." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16576" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="1bfecd89-9952-4ea6-b442-3311eb4b22b9" CreationDate="2016-09-29T02:59:47.043" UserId="4558" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="My old graphics card (NVIDIA GTX 660 2GB) is broken. I'd like to buy a new one that is better than my old card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC can't be turned on more than a second. It immediately turns off. When I removed my graphics card, it starts up normally. I have tried 3 other cards. Two of them are working fine and my computer turned on normally. The other one gives me problems like my old card. I haven't tried to change the PSU or have my friend try my old card yet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i3 Processor&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS H81M-C motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 2x 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS NVDIA GTX 660 VGA Card&#xD;&#xA; - Enermax 500W PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The graphics card I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce (any manufacturer, preferably well-known one)&#xD;&#xA; - Better than current card (Higher than GTX 660)&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum of 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably Priced (My budget $250-$300)&#xD;&#xA; - Long lasting (not giving much problem such as overheat, fan problem, noise, etc if I run my PC overnight for days)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using this card primarily for gaming and video editing purposes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16577" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5855" RevisionGUID="f91d68d6-c958-41d4-8bf6-fcb7ea3d9cea" CreationDate="2016-09-29T07:01:47.997" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="5d00ada0-1e92-4b92-ae33-879f3e391f28" CreationDate="2016-09-29T23:06:18.700" UserId="4576" Text="Someone gave me an older DELL Precision 390. It has an ATI FireGL V7600. I'm looking for a replacement because it gets really hot really fast and its fan is very noisy. I need something one the cheaper side and that doesn't use a lot of power. I not looking for something super powerful, I just need to be able to use [Sketchup][1] seamlessly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sketchup.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16590" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="5d00ada0-1e92-4b92-ae33-879f3e391f28" CreationDate="2016-09-29T23:06:18.700" UserId="4576" Text="Graphic card replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16591" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="5d00ada0-1e92-4b92-ae33-879f3e391f28" CreationDate="2016-09-29T23:06:18.700" UserId="4576" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16592" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="6c09087f-5a1c-4d74-a9a8-30d1a6c3ef97" CreationDate="2016-09-30T00:14:11.833" UserId="4576" Comment="added 66 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Someone gave me an older DELL Precision 390. It has an ATI FireGL V7600. I'm looking for a replacement because it gets really hot really fast and its fan is very noisy. I need something one the cheaper side and that doesn't use a lot of power. I not looking for something super powerful, I just need to be able to use [Sketchup][1] seamlessly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about going with a XFX HD 6000 Radeon HD 6450. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.sketchup.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16593" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="6c09087f-5a1c-4d74-a9a8-30d1a6c3ef97" CreationDate="2016-09-30T00:14:11.833" UserId="4576" Comment="added 66 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5866" RevisionGUID="fa1a37d4-8dfe-428d-a66f-14bcdde23778" CreationDate="2016-09-30T05:53:53.653" UserId="1715" Text="Out of all the computers, I've built I've always used a separate hard disk drive or solid state drive to separate the contents of the operating system and the user files. However, eventually somehow someway user folders even not knowingly will have content on the operating system drive. Throughout the years, I've discovered little tricks to OPT content out of that drive such as switching all download directories. Automatic downloads to certain drives. So I was wondering, have anyone found a for sure thing that works or, just nit pick things that will improve the chances of nothing ending up on that drive. Also, the operating system is mainly Windows. More specifically Windows 10." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16602" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5866" RevisionGUID="fa1a37d4-8dfe-428d-a66f-14bcdde23778" CreationDate="2016-09-30T05:53:53.653" UserId="1715" Text="What are the methods to reserve one SSD for only an operating system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16603" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5866" RevisionGUID="fa1a37d4-8dfe-428d-a66f-14bcdde23778" CreationDate="2016-09-30T05:53:53.653" UserId="1715" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5867" RevisionGUID="2ae9adae-2470-4909-b185-fdbb5f2688d2" CreationDate="2016-09-30T06:10:44.357" UserId="4578" Text="Depending on your operating system you can set the automatic download locations for all your music, videos, documents, downloads etc for windows 10 and the file explorer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise it just takes a careful eye when installing things to actually pause and read the path that you're installing or extracting things too. Also changing the library locations is very easy to do on all versions of windows. Currently I have a 2TB HHD with all my storage related things (plus a ton of games) and a 256GB SSD with all my program files etc stored on it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You are right occasionally the misc file gets transferred to the OS drive accidentally, but this wont cause much of an issue in the long run. Simply watch your path destinations and you will be fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also simply change the registry file that sets the default file path for installations: `HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.thewindowsclub.com/change-default-program-files-directory-windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="cce66eed-14ba-47ff-a2b2-9da7c116ddbd" CreationDate="2016-09-30T08:34:38.557" UserId="4579" Text="I have a pretty old HDD with IDE cables, and a relatively new motherboard (ASRock 970 extreme4) with only SATA input. Is there a possibility to connect the HDD to the motherboard? Should I just buy a new HDD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16606" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="cce66eed-14ba-47ff-a2b2-9da7c116ddbd" CreationDate="2016-09-30T08:34:38.557" UserId="4579" Text="How to connect IDE HDD to motherboard with only SATA?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16607" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="cce66eed-14ba-47ff-a2b2-9da7c116ddbd" CreationDate="2016-09-30T08:34:38.557" UserId="4579" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5869" RevisionGUID="b68a55d4-0b83-407b-963c-f5e0a43adab5" CreationDate="2016-09-30T08:37:15.453" UserId="180" Text="If someone stumbled on this question, they might be interested to know the result.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So we contacted various companies, and at the end we compared the products from the following companies:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Waco,&#xD;&#xA;- Jetter,&#xD;&#xA;- NI (Compact),&#xD;&#xA;- Siemens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our choice went for the Siemens products. So we acquired a **S7-1512SP F-1PN**, which had F-DI/F-DQ modules which allowed us to work with sensors in an Ex-Zone environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The deciding criteria for us were: Ex-Zone, CAN communication and price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Much later, someone recommended Unitronics as alternative, but we haven't tested it for reasons beyond the scope of this question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16613" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="71462fa9-0072-4f9a-946a-81fecd61f53d" CreationDate="2016-09-30T11:05:55.537" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16614" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5866" RevisionGUID="58aee19e-1219-45dd-b734-46794b09ab66" CreationDate="2016-09-30T11:06:19.710" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="e63bb6cb-39b9-468e-875b-3bcc15a35f90" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:54:01.807" UserId="4582" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick note though,as why should you feel the compelling desire to help me: the lab is going to be used by a college from Bucharest, Romania, many of its students crashing the competition every year during national and international informatics, hardware and debugging contests. The results are overwhelming and it will take many screens to list them all. Now: during the class, the usage ratio student to workstation is 3 to 1. We can do better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. algorithmics. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my solution: raspberry pi 2 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the solution is going to be built from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for being too cheap with my solution. Regarding the displays, I have no idea what to buy second hand. Most of the existent must be upgraded. The displays must not affect the health of the children which are supposed to work 2 hours per day top. Same question goes for keyboards and mice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. what displays, keyboards and mice should I consider?&#xD;&#xA;2. will raspberry pi 2 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). should I look for more? Beaglebone Black?&#xD;&#xA;3. the budget is goddam low. To be explicit, I can personally go as up as  $2k for the workstations and try to squeeze what's left needed from donations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help!&#xD;&#xA;-- a stackoverflower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16616" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="e63bb6cb-39b9-468e-875b-3bcc15a35f90" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:54:01.807" UserId="4582" Text="building a computer science lab" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16617" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="e63bb6cb-39b9-468e-875b-3bcc15a35f90" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:54:01.807" UserId="4582" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16618" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="da86b603-8fe7-4294-84a3-4d5d69ae4912" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:27:52.487" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16619" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="8fb38f2e-f289-4dd8-8a0f-9dc7849f7494" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:30:52.897" UserId="4582" Comment="update specifications" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick note though,as why should you feel the compelling desire to help me: the lab is going to be used by a college from Bucharest, Romania, many of its students crashing the competition every year during national and international informatics, hardware and debugging contests. The results are overwhelming and it will take many screens to list them all. Now: during the class, the usage ratio student to workstation is 3 to 1. We can do better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. algorithmics. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my solution: raspberry pi 3 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the solution is going to be built from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for being too cheap with my solution. Regarding the displays, I have no idea what to buy second hand. Most of the existent must be upgraded. The displays must not affect the health of the children which are supposed to work 2 hours per day top. Same question goes for keyboards and mice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. what displays, keyboards and mice should I consider?&#xD;&#xA;2. will raspberry pi 3 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). should I look for more? Beaglebone Black?&#xD;&#xA;3. the budget is goddam low. To be explicit, I can personally go as up as  $2k for the workstations and try to squeeze what's left needed from donations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help!&#xD;&#xA;-- a stackoverflower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="606db766-8dc0-4785-bcb4-3e0ea03504db" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:38:13.140" UserId="4582" Comment="narrowed. please un-hold it" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. algorithmics. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my solution: raspberry pi 3 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2k and squeeze the rest from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;will raspberry pi 3 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). should I look for more? Beaglebone Black?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help!&#xD;&#xA;-- a stackoverflower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16624" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="3287ed43-4890-41bc-9743-f68b3ddd9f23" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:50:41.527" UserId="4504" Comment="Better explaining what type of hardware you will need recommendations on... " Text="I have a pretty old HDD with IDE cables, and a relatively new motherboard (ASRock 970 extreme4) with only SATA inputs. Is there an adapter or device that will allow me to connect the old IDE HDD directly to the new SATA motherboard?   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If no such adapter exists, would you recommend I buy a new HDD instead? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16625" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="3287ed43-4890-41bc-9743-f68b3ddd9f23" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:50:41.527" Comment="Proposed by 4504 approved by 8 edit id of 524" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="a4bd2d19-6945-47c4-8520-279e50ae7153" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:53:40.540" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 81 characters in body" Text="I have a pretty old HDD with IDE cables, and a relatively new motherboard (ASRock 970 extreme4) with only SATA inputs. Is there an adapter or device that will allow me to connect the old IDE HDD directly to the new SATA motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16627" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5868" RevisionGUID="b2ec557f-e4b9-474c-acbe-27a86c66c9c5" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:53:42.623" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5873" RevisionGUID="290027ec-439b-487c-8702-fdac09ce454d" CreationDate="2016-09-30T16:15:40.883" UserId="4504" Text="So, what you are going to want is an internal adapter. You have to be careful when doing this because poorly made ones can fry a motherboard really quick. I've seen cheap ebay adapters take out other components as hostages as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find the [Vantec IDE to SATA converter][1] on new egg. It has a 4 out of 5 star rating across 270 reviews. If this exact model doesn't fit with your current motherboard, because of tray restrictions or space issues you can also buy the adapters that are just the wires, without the plugging type interface the model above uses.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is to find a product that has a lot of positive reviews. Like I've said, I've seen some of those power adapters kill a system. So do your homework and look at the reviews. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-DSA-_-CategoryPages-_-NA&amp;gclid=CPrItoS9t88CFQ9EfgodI-AAow&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5873" RevisionGUID="7d8e8135-c07c-45c0-9488-60cbe21dd631" CreationDate="2016-09-30T16:26:22.437" UserId="4504" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="So, what you are going to want is an internal adapter. You have to be careful when doing this because poorly made ones can fry a motherboard really quick. I've seen cheap ebay adapters take other components hostage as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find the [Vantec IDE to SATA converter][1] on new egg. It has a 4 out of 5 star rating across 270 reviews. If this exact model doesn't fit with your current motherboard, because of tray restrictions or space issues you can also buy the adapters that are just the wires, without the plug interface the model above uses.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is to find a product that has a lot of positive reviews. Like I've said, I've seen some of those power adapters kill a system. So do your homework and look at the reviews. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-DSA-_-CategoryPages-_-NA&amp;gclid=CPrItoS9t88CFQ9EfgodI-AAow&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5873" RevisionGUID="c9b24f3a-9e11-40a0-9791-df89291913d1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T16:38:25.757" UserId="4504" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="So, what you are going to want is an internal adapter. You have to be careful when doing this because poorly made ones can fry a motherboard really quick. I've seen cheap ebay adapters take other components hostage as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find the [Vantec IDE to SATA converter][1] on new egg. It has a 4 out of 5 star rating across 270 reviews. If this exact model doesn't fit with your current motherboard, because of tray restrictions or space issues you can also buy the adapters that are just the wires, without the plug interface the model above uses.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The most important thing is to find a product that has a lot of positive reviews. Like I've said, I've seen some of those power adapters kill a system. So do your homework and look at the reviews. Also with these old IDE drives, remember to have the pinout set to master. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-DSA-_-CategoryPages-_-NA&amp;gclid=CPrItoS9t88CFQ9EfgodI-AAow&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="9718b739-bbab-46b6-9024-07e0fc4b5cf6" CreationDate="2016-09-30T17:08:09.630" UserId="1801" Comment="Salutations and signatures distract from the question, so get deleted." Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. algorithmics. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my solution: raspberry pi 3 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2k and squeeze the rest from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;will raspberry pi 3 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). should I look for more? Beaglebone Black?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16633" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="9718b739-bbab-46b6-9024-07e0fc4b5cf6" CreationDate="2016-09-30T17:08:09.630" Comment="Proposed by 1801 approved by 4582 edit id of 525" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16634" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="6f8a60ec-c44f-49c1-924d-164a8d674852" CreationDate="2016-09-30T18:21:00.120" UserId="4582" Comment="more info on requirements" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. basic algorithms,graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of c++. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what have I thought about until now: raspberry pi 3 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2k and squeeze the rest from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;will raspberry pi 3 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). should I look for more? Beaglebone Black? I don't know any other microcomputers, any advise that could increase my options count would help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="6f8a60ec-c44f-49c1-924d-164a8d674852" CreationDate="2016-09-30T18:21:00.120" UserId="4582" Comment="more info on requirements" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16636" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="138caa63-1f34-43c6-8090-c5e9b495cbf1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T18:26:42.177" UserId="4582" Comment="more info on requirements" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. no more, no less. basic algorithms,graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of c++. so what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug and run their programs. I am thinking,a X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what have I thought about until now: raspberry pi 3 or equivalent. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2k and squeeze the rest from donations. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;will raspberry pi 3 suffice for the requirements I mentioned above? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I definitely don't want to go with normal workstation (heat, noise, etc). Beaglebone Black could be a candidate. I don't know any other microcomputers, any advise that could increase my options count would help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements. Every time I will be buying a device to test, my budget will go lower.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="3035716f-9fce-4111-94cb-5c1882fa9685" CreationDate="2016-09-30T19:55:15.420" UserId="57" Comment="Reworked the question a bit." Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. No more, no less. Basic algorithms, graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of C++. So what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug, and run their programs. I am thinking, an X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What have I thought about until now: Raspberry Pi 3 or a BeagleBoard. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2,000. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap. Please remember that I need to account for display devices in this budget as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which product - the Raspberry Pi3 or the BeagleBoard - will satisfy my requirements?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards, and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements. Every time I will be buying a device to test, my budget will go lower.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16638" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="3035716f-9fce-4111-94cb-5c1882fa9685" CreationDate="2016-09-30T19:55:15.420" UserId="57" Comment="Reworked the question a bit." Text="Building a computer science lab" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="f9599104-4892-4349-8fa0-cefc6e798df2" CreationDate="2016-09-30T22:18:50.020" UserId="57" Comment="added 120 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. No more, no less. Basic algorithms, graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of C++. So what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug, and run their programs. I am thinking, an X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What have I thought about until now: Raspberry Pi 3 or a BeagleBoard. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2,000. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap. Please remember that I need to account for display devices in this budget as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which product - the Raspberry Pi3 or the BeagleBoard - will satisfy my requirements?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards, and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements. Every time I will be buying a device to test, my budget will go lower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I am in Romania, and the price of the Pi is roughly $55 here. The $2000 budget is for all 30 devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16644" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="e2a2a7bd-d4a0-49b8-920f-f50394f937f7" CreationDate="2016-09-30T23:52:13.667" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5867" RevisionGUID="cb8adf11-81e4-4366-8494-1475e93001d5" CreationDate="2016-10-01T01:04:54.197" UserId="4578" Comment="edited out unnecessary info" Text="Depending on your operating system you can set the automatic download locations for all your music, videos, documents, downloads etc for windows 10 and the file explorer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise it just takes a careful eye when installing things to actually pause and read the path that you're installing or extracting things too. Also changing the library locations is very easy to do on all versions of windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You are right occasionally the misc file gets transferred to the OS drive accidentally, but this wont cause much of an issue in the long run. Simply watch your path destinations and you will be fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also simply change the registry file that sets the default file path for installations: `HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.thewindowsclub.com/change-default-program-files-directory-windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16652" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="8c70dce9-7f84-485f-a92f-3a125c8edf71" CreationDate="2016-10-01T05:28:18.653" UserId="4582" Comment="the budget is not for display, only for devices. i hope i won't get my question put on hold again, thank you" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. No more, no less. Basic algorithms, graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of C++. So what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug, and run their programs. I am thinking, an X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What have I thought about until now: Raspberry Pi 3 or a BeagleBoard. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2,000. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which product - the Raspberry Pi3 or the BeagleBoard - will satisfy my requirements?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards, and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements. Every time I will be buying a device to test, my budget will go lower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I am in Romania, and the price of the Pi is roughly $55 here. The $2000 budget is for all 30 devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5871" RevisionGUID="3bdd16d9-0965-4607-90db-beb644f230de" CreationDate="2016-10-01T05:38:10.890" UserId="4582" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build the specs for a workstation which will serve as a programming environment for a student. I will use the set of specs to build 30 workstations eventually connected to a main server. I will give you the requirements and what I have in mind as a starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements: they are programming in codeblocks. that's it. No more, no less. Basic algorithms, graphs, backtracking, etc. The programming language used is a subset of C++. So what is needed is a graphical environment where they can write, compile, debug, and run their programs. I am thinking, an X session + codeblocks is all that is needed, disregarding for the moment the entire set of build tools which I can safely ignore for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What have I thought about until now: Raspberry Pi 3 or a BeagleBoard. I must stay cheap because the budget is low. I can go up to $2,000. But I don't want to pay a higher price later for initially being too cheap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which product - the Raspberry Pi3 (cheaper) or the BeagleBoard (better?) - will satisfy my requirements?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the above:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: the $2k budget is for &quot;the box&quot; only, not including displays, keyboards, and mice. I could go up with few bucks if the solution totally satisfies the requirements. Every time I will be buying a device to test, my budget will go lower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I am in Romania, and the price of the rPi3 is roughly $55 here. The $2000 budget is for all 30 devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5881" RevisionGUID="baa2df97-b42e-49a5-a78f-9a62710b7c9a" CreationDate="2016-10-01T18:55:08.410" UserId="56" Text="2,000 isn't much. You can buy 1 very expensive desktop with that, or 5 reasonably priced ones. You want 30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want all workstations to be identical, this leaves you with 66 dollars and change per workstation. If an RPi costs 55 at your location, this would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To turn an RPi into a workstation, you'll need a mouse, keyboard, micro SD-card and monitor (assuming you already got cables and power adapter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The processor of an RPI 3 B is a 1.2 GHz 64-bit quad-core ARMv8. That sounds good, but for a workstation, it's not a lot. If an application is not optimized to make use of multiple cores, this leaves you with at most 1.2 GHz per application. That's not a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Is it usable as a workstation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. Somewhat. If you have some patience and don't make it do crazy things. Running a GUI IDE and a web-browser is something even the Model 1 could do. Just don't expect it to be fast. Compiling large projects will take a while. Also keep in mind 1 GB RAM is less than you're used to. Don't keep too many things open in the background.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't forget modern computers are often limited by their disk speed if they're not outfitted with SSD. Not by their processor core. A [micro SD-card](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Micro) is even slower, much slower really, than a normal desktop HDD. Whatever you do, get some decent cards. The ones that don't go bust too easily and have a higher speed ([Class 10](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Speed_class_rating)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### What about the BeagleBoard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't bother. You're talking educational here. There's simply much more content available for the RPi than for the BeagleBoard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5881" RevisionGUID="45dc91ca-2573-4cbe-9ca2-e9a916b45332" CreationDate="2016-10-01T19:00:30.070" UserId="56" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="2,000 isn't much. You can buy 1 very expensive desktop with that, or 5 reasonably priced ones. You want 30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want all workstations to be identical, this leaves you with 66 dollars and change per workstation. If an RPi costs 55 at your location, this would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To turn an RPi into a workstation, you'll need a mouse, keyboard, micro SD-card and monitor (assuming you already got HDMI cables and power adapters). You won't need an Ethernet cable, since the RPi 3 has WLAN. Still, 11 dollars for all those peripherals, it can't be done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The processor of an RPI 3 B is a 1.2 GHz 64-bit quad-core ARMv8. That sounds good, but for a workstation, it's not a lot. If an application is not optimized to make use of multiple cores, this leaves you with at most 1.2 GHz per application. That's not a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Is it usable as a workstation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. Somewhat. If you have some patience and don't make it do crazy things. Running a GUI IDE and a web-browser is something even the Model 1 could do. Just don't expect it to be fast. Compiling large projects will take a while. Also keep in mind 1 GB RAM is less than you're used to. Don't keep too many things open in the background.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't forget modern computers are often limited by their disk speed if they're not outfitted with SSD. Not by their processor core. A [micro SD-card](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Micro) is even slower, much slower really, than a normal desktop HDD. Whatever you do, get some decent cards. The ones that don't go bust too easily and have a higher speed ([Class 10](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Speed_class_rating)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### What about the BeagleBoard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't bother. You're talking educational here. There's simply much more content available for the RPi than for the BeagleBoard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5888" RevisionGUID="55337ee8-904a-4d4a-a2e7-807dc47b8add" CreationDate="2016-10-02T19:14:53.847" UserId="4599" Text="I recently decided to [build my own wireless router](https://renaudcerrato.github.io/2016/05/21/build-your-homemade-router-part1/) - and I found the [Airetos AEX-QCA9880-NX](http://www.amazon.com/AIRETOS-AEX-QCA9880-NX-802-11ac-Extended-Temperature/dp/B00OJPJVV6) performing very well on my DIY machine: 3 chains 802.11ac/n/g in a miniPCIe shape." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5889" RevisionGUID="b1ad4740-37dc-4a56-82a9-61157867096f" CreationDate="2016-10-03T08:11:53.827" UserId="4607" Text="I have been looking to buy a gaming laptop from the past two months. I only found out now that nvidia gtx 1000 series laptops are much better than 900 series ones. I am new to gaming and want to buy my first ever gaming laptop. I need a laptop for sure, not a desktop for portability reasons. However for the most part I will use it in plugged mode, so battery life isn't a huge issue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the main point, my budget is around $1500 and I want a 15-15.6 inch screen laptop only. And also the laptop that I will be taking will have a resolution not greater than FHD, so considering that, I think going with a gtx 1060 card is a better option as gtx 1070 or 1080 are only better than 1060 if I plan to play games at a higher resolution. So for FHD, gtx 1060 is more than enough(correct me if I am wrong, I am basing my priority over a 1060 laptop based on this fact/opinion). So which laptops do you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Is it worth spending money on gtx 1000 series laptops or should I buy a 900 series laptop (since it's my first gaming laptop)? Would the 900 series laptops' price drop seeing that pascal cards are out? If yes, is it even worth considering 900 series cards? As I read that with the advent of 1000 series cards, 900 series are about 2-3 generations old instead of being a generation away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.P.S. Also would there be any deals for such laptops considering ThanksGiving and black friday is only a few weeks away?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5889" RevisionGUID="b1ad4740-37dc-4a56-82a9-61157867096f" CreationDate="2016-10-03T08:11:53.827" UserId="4607" Text="Which gtx 1060 gaming laptop should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5889" RevisionGUID="b1ad4740-37dc-4a56-82a9-61157867096f" CreationDate="2016-10-03T08:11:53.827" UserId="4607" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16712" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5889" RevisionGUID="47eaaec1-be93-4026-942b-e5627f928074" CreationDate="2016-10-03T09:21:34.847" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 398 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have been looking to buy a gaming laptop from the past two months. I only found out now that nVidia GTX 1000 series laptops are much better than 900 series ones. I am new to gaming and want to buy my first ever gaming laptop. I need a laptop for sure, not a desktop for portability reasons. However for the most part I will use it in plugged mode, so battery life isn't a huge issue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the main point, my budget is around $1500 and I want a 15-15.6 inch screen laptop only. And also the laptop that I will be taking will have a resolution not greater than FHD, so considering that, I think going with a GTX 1060 card is a better option as GTX 1070 or 1080 are only better than 1060 if I plan to play games at a higher resolution. So for FHD, GTX 1060 is more than enough(correct me if I am wrong, I am basing my priority over a 1060 laptop based on this fact/opinion). I'll also look favourably on any laptops that are likely to have deals available (considering the upcoming Black Friday). So which laptops do you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16713" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5889" RevisionGUID="47eaaec1-be93-4026-942b-e5627f928074" CreationDate="2016-10-03T09:21:34.847" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 398 characters in body; edited title" Text="Which GTX 1060 gaming laptop should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="8f2539ca-a5bb-46c3-8d85-0e7eb7fa956c" CreationDate="2016-10-03T21:18:40.453" UserId="4609" Text="I'm travelling sometimes and want an mp3 player that can read a really large external memory source, ie a big micro sd / sd card slot (say 200gb or greater) or has a usb socket that can host flash drives (I already have a 256gb one that I could use).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any interest in high end features and amazing audio quality, just something fairly stable that is usable with a large music database.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any players that meet this spec ?   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="8f2539ca-a5bb-46c3-8d85-0e7eb7fa956c" CreationDate="2016-10-03T21:18:40.453" UserId="4609" Text="Looking for cheap mp3 player that has support for very large external memory capacity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="8f2539ca-a5bb-46c3-8d85-0e7eb7fa956c" CreationDate="2016-10-03T21:18:40.453" UserId="4609" Text="&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="d615a6d1-d0ef-4761-a49b-7b7ca64bd641" CreationDate="2016-10-03T21:25:38.753" UserId="4609" Comment="added 278 characters in body" Text="I'm travelling sometimes and want an mp3 player that can read a really large external memory source, ie a big micro sd / sd card slot (say 200gb or greater) or has a usb socket that can host flash drives (I already have a 256gb one that I could use).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any interest in high end features and amazing audio quality, just something fairly stable that is usable with a large music database.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only players I've found that support 200gb sized micro sd cards are the expensive fiio players which are way more than I want to spend.   I'm not actually sure if any mp3 players can *host* a usb device, it's just something I'd like to think exists but maybe it doesn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any players that meet this spec ?   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5893" RevisionGUID="5616b284-7ff6-4f38-b1e8-db67ffa7d9ef" CreationDate="2016-10-03T22:54:09.540" UserId="4612" Text="For a more complex project I need to process the video input of 8 to 12 cameras at the same time on a single computer but each with a rather low resolution (probably 480p). Those cameras could either be simple USB cameras or ones with analogue output so some converter is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The actual processing should happen through a self written program in C++.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The focus is on low cost for the setup (without the computer) and if possible, low latency as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I thought to use simple, cheap USB consumer webcams. Would that be the best way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are all kinds of camera modules Alibaba and similar shops like this one: http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Falcon-250-13-CMOS-700TVL-110-Degree-FPV-Camera-p-1040713.html&#xD;&#xA;However, I couldn't find a proper way to connect multiple of them to a PC to process the analogue signal digitally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Huge thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16724" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5893" RevisionGUID="5616b284-7ff6-4f38-b1e8-db67ffa7d9ef" CreationDate="2016-10-03T22:54:09.540" UserId="4612" Text="Best approach to handle 8-12 cameras through one PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16725" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5893" RevisionGUID="5616b284-7ff6-4f38-b1e8-db67ffa7d9ef" CreationDate="2016-10-03T22:54:09.540" UserId="4612" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5893" RevisionGUID="1904a97a-79c0-4491-b002-d531d214adc1" CreationDate="2016-10-04T00:25:42.607" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="0d9c6fb3-b8a5-4235-875e-d484a8a7a19b" CreationDate="2016-10-04T04:18:10.163" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="I'm having the Card Type : AirPort Extreme  (0x14E4, 0xF5) which support 802.11 a/b/g/n, but this is not enough for me. My computer is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to change my Card Type to obtain the one which support 802.11ac. Could anyone is able to tell me what sort of card type do I have to buy and what is the price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16740" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="0d9c6fb3-b8a5-4235-875e-d484a8a7a19b" CreationDate="2016-10-04T04:18:10.163" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="Wireless card on my Macbook Pro which support 802.11 ac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="0d9c6fb3-b8a5-4235-875e-d484a8a7a19b" CreationDate="2016-10-04T04:18:10.163" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5896" RevisionGUID="1b78e34b-09e9-4f84-a8ba-62d5cb9cc7a5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T08:28:02.640" UserId="4615" Text="I am a software developer. I am facing difficulties in finding a karaoke machine with software development kit(SDK). Kindly advice me. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16743" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5896" RevisionGUID="1b78e34b-09e9-4f84-a8ba-62d5cb9cc7a5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T08:28:02.640" UserId="4615" Text="Which karaoke machine should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16744" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5896" RevisionGUID="1b78e34b-09e9-4f84-a8ba-62d5cb9cc7a5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T08:28:02.640" UserId="4615" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="14642c57-efa2-4055-bc78-3d1643e3448f" CreationDate="2016-10-04T10:22:51.163" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16746" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="079121ba-5da5-426c-abf0-ff2313bc1422" CreationDate="2016-10-04T10:42:56.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16747" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="16776cb7-04c9-4506-a2d0-fe2425573af2" CreationDate="2016-10-04T11:32:03.543" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16749" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="c06ff89d-6e0f-43d5-a460-20b192f90f35" CreationDate="2016-10-04T12:02:56.860" UserId="4609" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="I'm travelling sometimes and want a cheap mp3 player that can read a really large external memory source, ie a big micro sd / sd card slot (say 200gb or greater) or has a usb socket that can host flash drives (I already have a 256gb one that I could use).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any interest in high end features and amazing audio quality, just something fairly stable that is usable with a large music database.   If it was really cheap and a bit nasty with a bad interface I'd put up with that, IF it allows a really big external music source to connect to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only players I've found that support say 200gb sized micro sd cards are the expensive fiio players which are way more than I want to spend.   I'm not actually sure if any mp3 players can *host* a usb device, it's just something I'd like to think exists but maybe it doesn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any players that meet this spec ?   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="b61ec040-5060-4f98-85c2-e9d23572cfcc" CreationDate="2016-10-04T16:29:12.750" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I'm having the Card Type : AirPort Extreme  (0x14E4, 0xF5) which support 802.11 a/b/g/n, but this is not enough for me. My computer is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to change my Card Type (Apple Airport Extreme) to obtain the one which support 802.11ac. Could anyone is able to tell me what sort of card type do I have to buy and what is the price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="58aed449-5091-49db-bee8-bd7bf1275a32" CreationDate="2016-10-04T17:13:39.200" UserId="4618" Text="We have a telecommuting employee who will be using an 802.3af-compliant IP phone at her desk, but she doesn't sit close to her router. In the past, we gave these types of employees a 802.3af POE injector and had them plug the other end into the LAN port on their laptop, and share the laptop's WiFi connection. This works, but it isn't ideal because (1) the phone only works if the computer is on, and (2) when Windows 10 installs updates it sometimes messes up the connection and we have to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would love to use something like Ubiquiti's [AirGateway](https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-AIRGATEWAY-Wireless-access-802-11/dp/B00HXT84DG/) with [this injector](https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-POE-24-12W-External-Injector/dp/B00HXT8LPW) to provide a reliable WiFi connection and POE to the phone in one brick (they snap together, so it looks like one brick to the end user). I actually have a spare one of these at home that I have configured as a bridge; they're just really reliable. However, none of Ubiquiti's stuff is 802.3af-compliant, so it won't power the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, has anyone else made a brick like this, but 802.3af-compliant?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I could use my usual 802.3af injector and connect it to a range extender that includes an Ethernet port like [this one](https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW), and that's probably what I'll do if I can't find a single-brick solution. This question is just looking at single-brick solutions for aesthetic reasons: the home users don't want a lot of clutter and extra devices just to get a phone to work. So the best answer here is the one that provides POE and WiFi access to the phone with the least amount of clutter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="58aed449-5091-49db-bee8-bd7bf1275a32" CreationDate="2016-10-04T17:13:39.200" UserId="4618" Text="Provide WiFi and POE in one brick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="58aed449-5091-49db-bee8-bd7bf1275a32" CreationDate="2016-10-04T17:13:39.200" UserId="4618" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5898" RevisionGUID="1774f1f5-8ab1-4317-a1ee-195085a28d8c" CreationDate="2016-10-04T18:00:10.173" UserId="4618" Text="#$36 - Android with USB OTG support and OTG Player App&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get the [iNOVA EX756 Android Tablet for $36](https://smile.amazon.com/iNOVA-EX756-Cortex-A9-MicroSD-800x480/dp/B00U2O3Y02) with the [USB Video Player - OTG Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.usbplayer.videoplayerhd&amp;hl=en) app. Or some other Android tablet or phone with USB OTG support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a USB OTG cable, so you can plug in your flash drive (probably doesn't provide enough power to spin up a hard drive, though).&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot only goes up to 32 GB, but you said &quot;or USB&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - USB Video Player - OTG Player will play files directly from the USB device, without copying them to your tablet.  This means you shouldn't be limited by what size filesystems the tablet can access, just what the app can access, since the app [accesses the USB device in raw form](http://android.stackexchange.com/a/43800).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This How-To Geek article](http://www.howtogeek.com/129800/how-to-use-usb-drives-with-the-nexus-7-and-other-android-devices/) has some more tips on accessing a USB device from Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="8a8340f5-0bb1-4897-b613-363d400c5c6b" CreationDate="2016-10-04T21:46:41.427" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5895" RevisionGUID="ac983ced-2a55-47f9-a118-6205ff25c3af" CreationDate="2016-10-04T22:54:54.763" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="added 145 characters in body" Text="I'm having the Card Type : AirPort Extreme  (0x14E4, 0xF5) which support 802.11 a/b/g/n, but this is not enough for me. As my new router is WRT 1900 ac (Linksys) and it is using the new technology 802.11 ac. I'd like to use it, but my computer doesn't support it.  My computer is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to change my Card Type (Apple Airport Extreme) to obtain the one which support 802.11ac. Could anyone is able to tell me what sort of card type do I have to buy and what is the price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="95542b8b-18eb-4c01-8e76-e86914fc2feb" CreationDate="2016-10-04T23:07:51.630" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="I'm looking for something special I'm not succeeding to get. This is the &quot;Apple Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac&quot;, but I'm not sure if it exists in reality. Could anyone be able to tell me if such card exists for a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16764" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="95542b8b-18eb-4c01-8e76-e86914fc2feb" CreationDate="2016-10-04T23:07:51.630" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="Is there exist a Apple Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16765" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="95542b8b-18eb-4c01-8e76-e86914fc2feb" CreationDate="2016-10-04T23:07:51.630" UserDisplayName="user4614" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16766" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="cd63672a-ae68-46a3-8b7d-d59f13568b85" CreationDate="2016-10-04T23:27:59.523" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="Is there exist an Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16767" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="cd63672a-ae68-46a3-8b7d-d59f13568b85" CreationDate="2016-10-04T23:27:59.523" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="13095c9c-960a-477b-b6fb-c2fdd6fbc7dd" CreationDate="2016-10-05T00:29:40.310" UserId="4609" Comment="clarified size" Text="I'm travelling sometimes and want a cheap mp3 player that can read a really large external memory source, ie a big micro sd / sd card slot (say 200gb or greater) or has a usb socket that can host flash drives (I already have a 256gb one that I could use).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any interest in high end features and amazing audio quality, just something fairly stable that is usable with a large music database.   If it was really cheap and a bit nasty with a bad interface I'd put up with that, IF it allows a really big external music source to connect to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only players I've found that support say 200gb sized micro sd cards are the expensive fiio players which are way more than I want to spend.   I'm not actually sure if any mp3 players can *host* a usb device, it's just something I'd like to think exists but maybe it doesn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of any players that meet this spec ?   Oh and to clarify, ideally I want something small, ie &quot;mp3 player&quot; size." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="636512cc-b820-4ad8-bf67-8ba74c0427e2" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:39:05.297" UserId="2086" Text="The mouse will have to have thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have a button like logitech mouse that can switch between computers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's scrolling button must be clickable as middle button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a touch screen like mac mouse actually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price up to $200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="636512cc-b820-4ad8-bf67-8ba74c0427e2" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:39:05.297" UserId="2086" Text="I need a mouse for my mom" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="636512cc-b820-4ad8-bf67-8ba74c0427e2" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:39:05.297" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;intellimouse&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16780" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5904" RevisionGUID="2e31af51-3903-406b-b472-bdf8a06f23db" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:43:23.573" UserId="4626" Text="I'd like to deploy a set of cheap servers across town.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to run LAMP stack or Java, with 1GB of RAM being 100% enough, but multi-core CPU would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need Ethernet Port on it a and Flash Drive only regarding peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the best solution would be a board with the box where there's only what I need (CPU, RAM, Flash Drive, Ethernet), with no need for WiFi, HDMI, Audio etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have reviewed number of products like Raspberry PI and clones and I am not sure if this is suitable to run LAMP stack and Java. I've seen that Java is already available (JDK7) for Raspberry PI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stability of operation is important, the working conditions are normal home conditions (heating, low humidity).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The security is also important so that I can load updates to it over next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know any user-friendly product top off you head? I think something like low-end Pentium or i3 would be totally cool, if I can buy Chromebook like that for £100, then I should be able to buy server for £50, but I can't find any..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5904" RevisionGUID="2e31af51-3903-406b-b472-bdf8a06f23db" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:43:23.573" UserId="4626" Text="Cheap and small server for home / small business installation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16782" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5904" RevisionGUID="2e31af51-3903-406b-b472-bdf8a06f23db" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:43:23.573" UserId="4626" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16783" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="a99aeae6-b2c6-4931-8713-c53d552751ff" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:43:50.327" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="6896df19-0de5-439c-aab1-7f4af18e4104" CreationDate="2016-10-05T09:47:42.203" UserId="2086" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="The mouse will have to have thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have a button like logitech mouse that can switch between computers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's scrolling button must be clickable as middle button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a touch screen like mac mouse actually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price up to $200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/catalog/50361/logitech-mx-anywhere-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have big problem with it's middle button. I can't have middle button. The scrolling wheel doesn't work as middle button. The scrolling wheel act as a switch between smooth scrolling and something, which I totally do not need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also it's too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want simpler mouse for mom.&#xD;&#xA;I sort of like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="62e3cec5-ad0b-445b-bcd4-9ed4b9d77da3" CreationDate="2016-10-05T14:18:15.527" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="5906" RevisionGUID="3331467a-7d07-4b5d-a307-c2939692dbe5" CreationDate="2016-10-05T14:24:42.700" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/55944/any-raspberry-pi-alternatives-with-usb-3-gigabit-and-maybe-even-sata" />
  <row Id="16792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5906" RevisionGUID="c1c6d866-96e3-496d-b805-b41d0a14fbba" CreationDate="2016-10-05T14:06:19.050" UserId="4642" UserDisplayName="Stefan Kern" Text="So far I do love all the Raspberry Pi's I have laying around at home (1, 2, 3 and 2 Zeros) but I've decided to build my own little cloud at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the Raspberries lack USB 3 and a Gigabit port it's not going to be the best option for this task. My internet speed at home may not be the greatest but when I'm at home trying to transfer files I do indeed want the full capability of 1 GBit/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want an alternative with...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit Port&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - (optional) SATA&#xD;&#xA; - (optional) x86 based processor for Windows&#xD;&#xA; - under or slightly above 100€ (or $)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations? I've already googled a bit but I haven't found a good alternative yet. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5906" RevisionGUID="c1c6d866-96e3-496d-b805-b41d0a14fbba" CreationDate="2016-10-05T14:06:19.050" UserId="4642" UserDisplayName="Stefan Kern" Text="Any Raspberry Pi Alternatives with USB 3, Gigabit and maybe even SATA?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16794" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5906" RevisionGUID="c1c6d866-96e3-496d-b805-b41d0a14fbba" CreationDate="2016-10-05T14:06:19.050" UserId="4642" UserDisplayName="Stefan Kern" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5908" RevisionGUID="e061b6e9-fb18-432a-a39a-91de54f3a6c6" CreationDate="2016-10-05T15:47:24.970" UserId="4628" Text="[ODROID-XU4](http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825) lacks the features you marked as optional but has everything you require and is sold for $74 at the time of writing (with worldwide shipping) on hardkernel website, though the shop link doesn't seem to work. Anyway, it can be easily found on eBay and similar sites." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16801" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="0553fd74-4b66-41cc-a666-af5364946a6a" CreationDate="2016-10-05T16:06:54.923" UserDisplayName="user4614" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5910" RevisionGUID="b9c7706c-b3bb-41d5-936e-c982a28e9253" CreationDate="2016-10-05T16:35:46.937" UserId="1410" Text="I am a softie, with little understanding of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to develop a vending machine controller, as cheaply as possible, while still being functional. I don’t expect heavy CPU or RAM usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be compatible with standard peripherals, such as coin &amp; note changers, it must have a URT. I guess that I just use a USB to UATR converter? Is that best/cheapest/are there any alternatives?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will also need to drive some motors to expel the vended goods, and will have a keypad for ordering and a display (which display probably depends on price), and possibly a sensor to determine that items actually drop. Does this mean GPIO pins?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to add wifi, for diagnostics, retrieval of sales data, upload of new firmware to the machine, and, in future, I might like to add RJ45.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone advise me what is the best way to go? Do I just take a Pi Zero and start adding shields, or is there a better suited model/peripheral combination? Sorry to be so dense. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5910" RevisionGUID="b9c7706c-b3bb-41d5-936e-c982a28e9253" CreationDate="2016-10-05T16:35:46.937" UserId="1410" Text="Raspberry PI for vending machine controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5910" RevisionGUID="b9c7706c-b3bb-41d5-936e-c982a28e9253" CreationDate="2016-10-05T16:35:46.937" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="2fbcef02-2f2c-48e0-8d55-e8f09b79d39f" CreationDate="2016-10-05T18:47:29.003" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="I'm looking for a [Cherry MX Blue][1] keyboard with RGB backlighting. I'm using a [Razer BlackWidow 2013][2] first revision, and I love the switches on it. I have tried [MX Brown][1] switches, but I'm not happy with the click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not for the near future, so if you know keyboards that are going to launch with it be sure to add it. I have an UNLIMITED budget for this keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's going to be used for games, but mostly for the typing of stuff. I'm a heavy typer so I would like to get one where the legs don't pop off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_(keyboards)#Cherry_switches_in_consumer_keyboards_.28circa_mid_2016.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-blackwidow-2013&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1378" RevisionGUID="2fbcef02-2f2c-48e0-8d55-e8f09b79d39f" CreationDate="2016-10-05T18:47:29.003" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 8 edit id of 526" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5903" RevisionGUID="adb1e990-cb5d-4721-9fa5-73d05aaef3b6" CreationDate="2016-10-05T18:52:53.260" UserId="2086" Comment="added 417 characters in body" Text="The mouse will have to have thumb button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have a button like logitech mouse that can switch between computers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's scrolling button must be clickable as middle button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a touch screen like mac mouse actually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price up to $200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I want something like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/catalog/50361/logitech-mx-anywhere-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have big problem with it's middle button. I can't have middle button. The scrolling wheel doesn't work as middle button. The scrolling wheel act as a switch between smooth scrolling and something, which I totally do not need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also it's too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want simpler mouse for mom.&#xD;&#xA;I sort of like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that many high end logitech mouse has a stupid feature (I don't know what's the name). Basically the wheel has 2 mode. Free scroll and fine scrolling. So the wheel button doesn't work. The button behind the wheel works as a way to switch between fine scrolling and free scrolling. I hate that feature. I am happy with normal free scrolling and prefer middle button instead." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5911" RevisionGUID="92bff15a-e355-4791-a894-b8559cad7e31" CreationDate="2016-10-05T19:06:28.710" UserId="3836" Text="Unless your LAMP stack will see high load, the Raspberry Pi 3 is a perfect choice for your purposes. It can even be overclocked decently if you add a few small heatsinks to its chip surfaces. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have successfully run a low-use LAMP stack off my Raspberry Pi A+, which is a single core 700mhz ARM CPU (I had it OC'd to 900mhz but whatever) with 256mb system RAM divided between the CPU and GPU!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These systems are stable as all get-out too. Mine is currently sitting on day 50+ of continuous operation with a custom distro (DietPi) running my FTP, SSH server, and at one point an aborted attempt at a custom Asterisk setup." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5912" RevisionGUID="4e0aa178-4773-4fc0-ad3a-905973f2ed3d" CreationDate="2016-10-05T21:15:21.247" UserId="4632" Text="&#xD;&#xA;Since I have my standing desk, I wonder what the best mouse type is to use while working standing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mostly use a vertical mouse but I am starting to doubt it now as you can't lean your elbow. That's why I was thinking of getting a trackball mouse (don't mind a good investment if it benefits my health) or maybe just a regular mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be the best from an ergonomic point of view? (to reduce/avoid RSI)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5912" RevisionGUID="4e0aa178-4773-4fc0-ad3a-905973f2ed3d" CreationDate="2016-10-05T21:15:21.247" UserId="4632" Text="What is a good mouse to use with a standing desk?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5912" RevisionGUID="4e0aa178-4773-4fc0-ad3a-905973f2ed3d" CreationDate="2016-10-05T21:15:21.247" UserId="4632" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5913" RevisionGUID="36e90f35-1884-4a88-abee-3067367f023b" CreationDate="2016-10-06T08:54:32.907" UserId="1802" Text="It looks like the ONVIF standard is the future way of getting recorded videos from devices like IP cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By typing **Profile G** into [this web page][1] you can get a list of compatible device, mostly IP cameras, and very few client software apps (only 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recordings are being accessed via URL like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://10.8.3.173/onvif/Recording&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But we must still wait for a decent SDK, that would enable to create Onvif G profile client in languages like C#, so it is hardly usable yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.onvif.org/ConformantProducts/ProfileProducts.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5914" RevisionGUID="1da3b284-302b-4423-8076-ecaf33b8f198" CreationDate="2016-10-06T09:03:06.187" UserId="1802" Text="It looks like normal older analog CCTV cameras pose no significant problem, they function basically the same regardless on manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem arises with HD-SDI, HD-TVI, HD-CVI, AHD formats and IP cameras and different levels of built-in ONVIF support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.supercircuits.com/lp/compare-hd-analog-video-formats&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have chosen &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HIKVISION DS-7208/16HQHI-F2/N][1] or similar, because it supports analog, AHD and HD-TVI cameras and IP cameras too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dashua DVRs support different standard HD-CVI, so it is a matter of choice. HD-SDI cameras are generally a problem. Dashua has better versatility because their hybrid DVRs allow for connecting more IP cameras than HIKVISION.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other manufacturers like PINETRON do not offer those hybrid DVR models or I have not found it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_accessries_364_i5792.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16819" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5914" RevisionGUID="3e111ec4-af3f-4068-a825-063bfa7e9a45" CreationDate="2016-10-06T09:11:54.847" UserId="1802" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="It looks like normal older analog CCTV cameras pose no significant problem, they function basically the same regardless on manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem arises with HD-SDI, HD-TVI, HD-CVI, AHD formats and IP cameras and different levels of built-in ONVIF support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.supercircuits.com/lp/compare-hd-analog-video-formats&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have chosen &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HIKVISION DS-7208/16HQHI-F2/N][1] or similar, because it supports analog, AHD and HD-TVI cameras and a range of ONVIF IP cameras too. (Checked it with a new AVTECH IP camera and worked ok).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dashua DVRs support different standard HD-CVI, so it is a matter of choice. HD-SDI cameras are generally a problem. Dashua has better versatility because their hybrid DVRs allow for connecting more IP cameras than HIKVISION. I like Dashua playback interface better, but some functions like setting expired time for streams work better on HIKVISION. Dashua does not allow setting auto deleting old records per stream, HIKVISION does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other relevant manufacturers like PINETRON do not offer those hybrid DVR models or I have not found it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_accessries_364_i5792.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5915" RevisionGUID="033bea7c-24ec-4518-a062-b748acf54b15" CreationDate="2016-10-06T11:35:38.280" UserDisplayName="user4636" Text="i am going to buy an Xbox One S next week. Now i found myself searching for a new screen. I prefer screens smaller than 30&quot;. Since the XBOX ONE S supports 4k resolution i want to buy a screen with that resolution. My day long google serach didnt result in any good screens. So i am asking you: &#xD;&#xA;Do you know about good 4k gaming screens? &#xD;&#xA;Do you know about 4k gaming screens, smaller than 30&quot; that support HDR? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16821" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5915" RevisionGUID="033bea7c-24ec-4518-a062-b748acf54b15" CreationDate="2016-10-06T11:35:38.280" UserDisplayName="user4636" Text="XBOX ONE S Screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16822" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5915" RevisionGUID="033bea7c-24ec-4518-a062-b748acf54b15" CreationDate="2016-10-06T11:35:38.280" UserDisplayName="user4636" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5915" RevisionGUID="d2de9e93-2604-41b0-966a-1f5e293fff4d" CreationDate="2016-10-06T13:21:55.440" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 12 characters in body" Text="i am going to buy an Xbox One S next week. Now i found myself searching for a new screen. I prefer screens smaller than 30&quot;. Since the XBOX ONE S supports 4k resolution i want to buy a screen with that resolution. My day long google serach didnt result in any good screens. So i am asking you: &#xD;&#xA;Do you know about good 4k gaming screens? &#xD;&#xA;Do you know about 4k gaming screens, smaller than 30&quot; that support HDR?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5918" RevisionGUID="341c444c-d0e6-405a-a318-267759c27513" CreationDate="2016-10-06T16:07:38.033" UserId="4504" Text="So I won't be able to answer your questions completely, but it looks like the requested features you're looking for has been done in the past. Here is what someone else has been able to do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1. Vending Pi Board&#xD;&#xA;A) Gather data from DEX Input / Output Port (Vending Machine Side).&#xD;&#xA;B) Collect data from Humidity &amp; Temperature Sensors inside Vending machine.&#xD;&#xA;2. Stock Data (Total Sold, Product Price, Product Total Price).&#xD;&#xA;3. Android Phone / Tablet used to download data from Raspberry Pi system via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;4. Stores data locally ready to upload to server or to upload to PC then to server (Web Interface)&#xD;&#xA;5. Provides GPS location input for Vending Machine.&#xD;&#xA;6. Check Vending machine location through GPS (Through Android Smart phone/Tablet)&#xD;&#xA;7. On board Temperature sensor can control mini cooler fan for Vending Board system.&#xD;&#xA;8. Status LED’s for error checking / troubleshooting.&#xD;&#xA;9. 2 micro switch to provide basic control ( shutdown, reboot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like they have a project page that outlines the entire process, and how it can be done again.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Here is the main URL][1]  &#xD;&#xA;[Here is their project page, it looks like they sell the Raspberry pi already pre-configured][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this isn't an acceptable answer, I can continue dredging google to find what else you might need. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&amp;t=89299&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.pridopia.co.uk/pi-vending.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5919" RevisionGUID="3e350000-b2d7-40aa-b27d-f96866ba0d61" CreationDate="2016-10-06T16:16:27.603" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Its going to be hard to find a kit for $50 or less, but these are some kits for an affordable price which can be programmed to do what I think you might be looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first one here includes everything to build the bot:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Starter-Kit-eBOT-Z-Smart-Car-Robot-Chassis-Bundle-DIY-New-from-USA-/252089921982?hash=item3ab1baf1be:g:vdEAAOSwrklVWX0K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is just the chassis and associated parts, if you already have an arduino and other parts laying around:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ardokit-Smart-Robot-Car-Chassis-Kit-Speed-Encoder-Battery-Box-For-Arduino-/162229636923?hash=item25c5a3cf3b:g:1WwAAOSw-CpX9iWt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has tracks but costs a bit more and I'm not too familiar with its capabilities but since its arduino based it can be programmed to do whatever:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Makeblock-Creative-DIY-Bluetooth-Tank-Car-Robot-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-Blue-USA-/262657815040?hash=item3d27a03200:g:5kcAAOSwFdtX0ogB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know these links are frowned upon and this probably isn't an acceptable answer, but its going to be hard to answer without a link to a product that fits the question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16832" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="9109c246-03e8-4fce-933a-e3f80c6245ae" CreationDate="2016-10-06T17:01:04.933" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Confuse-a-cat : seeking dirt cheap, wheeled, programmable robot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16840" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="bd36452c-8f54-431e-b2e7-9fb836458264" CreationDate="2016-10-07T12:21:03.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16857" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="44752b0a-0cb6-4d01-9d56-844674f9922d" CreationDate="2016-10-07T22:34:50.637" UserId="4618" Comment="43" />
  <row Id="16862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5925" RevisionGUID="c0d62cf0-c0c4-44a8-8eb4-0cb6c44982f2" CreationDate="2016-10-08T09:19:44.423" UserId="4649" Text="I am wondering which Ultrabook should I choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Lenovo Ideapad 500s-13 i5-6200U/8GB/240SSD GF920M - Ram DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Lenovo 510S i5-6200U 16GB 120SSD R5M430 - Ram DDR4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would have to pay 10% more for the second one. I will be using it mostly for work, studying. For example photoshop, Android Studio, maybe some lite 3D work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think? :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5925" RevisionGUID="c0d62cf0-c0c4-44a8-8eb4-0cb6c44982f2" CreationDate="2016-10-08T09:19:44.423" UserId="4649" Text="Lenovo 500s (8GB) vs Lenovo 510s(16GB)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5925" RevisionGUID="c0d62cf0-c0c4-44a8-8eb4-0cb6c44982f2" CreationDate="2016-10-08T09:19:44.423" UserId="4649" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5927" RevisionGUID="f9562390-495e-48cb-a198-e4739e88b999" CreationDate="2016-10-08T13:53:28.973" UserId="2081" Text="Since you like Ubiquiti (I love 'em) why not use their [&quot;In Wall&quot; WiFi Access Point][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I like about this solution is that it does exactly what you are looking to do all in one box:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi Access Point&#xD;&#xA;- PoE &amp; Data Passthrough port for a VoIP phone, camera, etc.&#xD;&#xA;- Standard Data port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best part is, it goes into a standard wall or surface mount jack for a nice clean install.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/X6VaUK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CD5pI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5928" RevisionGUID="467b6622-b784-40ac-a8fb-9e2751c1e788" CreationDate="2016-10-08T13:59:01.620" UserId="2081" Text="I would get the 510s.  You can easily upgrade the SSD when you are ready, but for 10% more you not only get twice the memory but its DDR4 versus DDR3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5930" RevisionGUID="bc1d2472-1a1e-4273-bbdd-2ecbdc6307f3" CreationDate="2016-10-08T15:44:48.310" UserId="4651" Text=" - The D-Link product is no longer manufactured.&#xD;&#xA; - I'm aware of software products such as [NAS4Free][1]; I'd rather have a complete solution that doesn't involve acquiring more than one product.&#xD;&#xA; - Raid 1; ability to work with Boxee Box; 2, preferably 3 TBytes per spindle.&#xD;&#xA; - You'd be right if you've guessed that I pinch pennies.&#xD;&#xA; - I've tried searching using terms including **sharecenter comparison** and **sharecenter alternative**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if you can help me by suggesting other search terms I'd appreciate that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nas4free.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16876" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5930" RevisionGUID="bc1d2472-1a1e-4273-bbdd-2ecbdc6307f3" CreationDate="2016-10-08T15:44:48.310" UserId="4651" Text="What's a good replacement for a D-Link DNS-320 ShareCenter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16877" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5930" RevisionGUID="bc1d2472-1a1e-4273-bbdd-2ecbdc6307f3" CreationDate="2016-10-08T15:44:48.310" UserId="4651" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5932" RevisionGUID="c9b5f28a-77aa-4a57-a17d-d8104a61ba81" CreationDate="2016-10-08T16:55:12.630" UserId="4643" Text="I'm looking to buy a new laptop used mainly for heavy programming and needs to be able to play HD videos without trouble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I was able to find (and I'm open to better suggestions), I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Budget: ~$1000&#xD;&#xA; - intel i5 CPU (HQ vs U? what do i really need?)&#xD;&#xA; - display: 15+ in; Full HD (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8+ GB&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One important thing to add is that I already have a 250 GB SSD that i would like to install in the new laptop (SSD where the HDD is, and the HDD + adapter instead of the DVD drive, for example). Any recommendations are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just don't know much about these things so I can't make an educated decision.&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16882" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5932" RevisionGUID="c9b5f28a-77aa-4a57-a17d-d8104a61ba81" CreationDate="2016-10-08T16:55:12.630" UserId="4643" Text="Need a new laptop that meets the following requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16883" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5932" RevisionGUID="c9b5f28a-77aa-4a57-a17d-d8104a61ba81" CreationDate="2016-10-08T16:55:12.630" UserId="4643" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5933" RevisionGUID="ce7a18f5-2e31-433c-8701-979b98a252da" CreationDate="2016-10-08T19:35:57.603" UserId="2081" Text="I have a preference for Synology.  Based on the D-Link specs you provided, either the &quot;J Series&quot; or the &quot;Value Series&quot; would be a good match.  Take a look at the [Synology site][1] for more details&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pretty much the features/specs are the same - especially when it comes to the software and firmware.  The only notable differences would be in the hardware specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an older model 212j that works flawlessly.  I have upgraded it to new versions of the OS with zero issues and is fully compatible with my setup.  I hang 3 USB drives off of it for backup and a USB flash disk for storage of my music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's nice here too is that you can get it &quot;[diskless][2]&quot; meaning the bays are empty.  This is how I bought mine (for under $200) at the time and put in two [WD Red 3TB NAS][3] drives cheaper than I could have bought it pre-populated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-us/products?bays=bays_2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/pR0YDR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://goo.gl/4nk1Ry" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16892" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5925" RevisionGUID="e83508f8-7713-44e2-8c6a-f2631c5d8ab9" CreationDate="2016-10-08T20:39:57.270" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16895" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5935" RevisionGUID="e7bea456-57f6-49bf-bd0c-5dc5fc65feb5" CreationDate="2016-10-08T21:55:56.987" UserId="2081" Text="The key word here is &quot;Programming.&quot;  This can have a range of expectation from writing code that gets executed on another server (like a web app) to data modelling, to app development that needs virtualized machines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the price point you specified, I would go with....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- any MacBook Pro from 2010 through 2013 if you like OS X or Sierra.  It will run Windows 10, but I wouldn't spend Apple money on a Windows machine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A [Dell XPS 15][1] if you want excellent portability, excellent graphics and a reliable machine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A [Dell Inspiron 5000 Series][2] if you want great value and a 2-in-1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/inspiron-15-7579-2-in-1-laptop/pd?ref=PD_Family" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16896" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="90f22c25-3672-40df-850b-94cfaa038183" CreationDate="2016-10-08T21:59:06.977" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="213" RevisionGUID="e907330c-0659-4a32-89fb-57150b8a8d83" CreationDate="2016-10-08T22:16:24.517" UserId="278" Comment="edited body" Text="I use the Etekcity Scroll X1. It costs $15. It has 4 extra buttons (2 Side Buttons and 2 more behind the mouse wheel) It fits perfectly in my hand (I use the fingertip grip, i.e. I only touch the mouse with the tips of my fingers and the bottom of the palm of my hand) It includes drivers, and it's very cheap. It is 2400 DPI, but for 18 dollars you can get a 4000 DPI Model and $26 will buy you a 8200 DPI Mouse -- which is just insane. You can see more info and buy it [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3L19KQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5936" RevisionGUID="cce3fc2d-4112-453e-8495-c09fb8c4a44c" CreationDate="2016-10-09T03:44:11.117" UserId="4523" Text="To be completely honest with you, as long as you have a suitable surface to use the mouse on any mouse will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to ergonomics, there are extended armrests that can attach to a desk....[example](https://www.amazon.com/Wrist-Rest-Horizontal-Fashionable-Armrest_Silver/dp/B00LW5TBV6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475984146&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=mouse+arm+rest)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I have been using a MadCatz/Cyborg R.A.T.7 for since 2010, just replaced it with a new one after 6 years due to it dying after heavy use.&#xD;&#xA;I use the older version[RAT 7](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095D1CM8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a gaming mouse, but is can be customized, and you can add/remove weights, which for me helps deal with muscle twitches in my hands/wrists due to too many years on ADHD/Aspergers medications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have had no issue with RSI/RMI with this mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5937" RevisionGUID="319163e5-17d1-4f94-b58c-7a9f0ec17b5a" CreationDate="2016-10-09T03:51:53.687" UserId="4523" Text="I use a MadCatz R.A.T.7.   It's ergonomic, customizable, max of 6400dpi.  &#xD;&#xA;I use it for everything, and only had to replace it recently after the old one got flaky after six years of heavy use...and some rough treatment when moving place to place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RAT 7](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095D1CM8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't work for amazon or madcatz...&#xD;&#xA;I also kinda find it odd that people post the fact they don't work for *insert company*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5938" RevisionGUID="2e7a4a4e-89d0-4f12-9c5b-bff3ca1b3298" CreationDate="2016-10-09T04:05:48.003" UserId="4523" Text="If you are looking for sub 30&quot; 4k UHD displays, TVs are all above 30&quot; from what I have been able to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;there are plenty of gaming PC monitors in the 4k UHD realm though.&#xD;&#xA;I usually stick with Asus products, though everyone has their particular favorite manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were going to upgrade to 4k using a less than 30&quot; screen, I would go with this, though it is currently out of my price range:  [example](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16824236677)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16905" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="6751a41f-2cf1-4d5b-8544-6b818ff205fd" CreationDate="2016-10-09T04:18:04.473" UserId="4618" Comment="clarify title to show that a WiFi bridge is desired, and a device that provides POE is desired, not a device that runs on POE" Text="Provide WiFi Bridge and POE Injector in one brick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5940" RevisionGUID="ccbb0e73-6b24-41cc-8d1a-abf5fe633bbe" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:34:51.527" UserId="4659" Text="A few years ago I bought a hp ProBook 6470b. It had decent specs, and looked pretty cool. I've been running Linux on the machine for quite a while now, and have started to notice some slowdowns. The laptop came with 4Gb which I think needs an upgrade. I found one ram stick (4Gb) online, [from Crucial][2], and wonder if they will go along together, and if i need to consider anything else before buying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Picture of the memory inside the computer.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/probook-6470b/CT3506032&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sLGwH.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16911" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5940" RevisionGUID="ccbb0e73-6b24-41cc-8d1a-abf5fe633bbe" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:34:51.527" UserId="4659" Text="Memory compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16912" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5940" RevisionGUID="ccbb0e73-6b24-41cc-8d1a-abf5fe633bbe" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:34:51.527" UserId="4659" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5941" RevisionGUID="368fb216-c72d-47ea-adca-680858fd4319" CreationDate="2016-10-09T17:25:28.123" UserId="3980" Text="Both of them look ok to me (the ones from Amazon and Crucial). Everything seems to match up: Form Factor (sodimm), Speed 1600Mhz, Model No. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion, it looks to me like the RAM you looked at and the RAM that Esbjorn suggested ***are compatible***." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5942" RevisionGUID="790795c2-6fef-47c9-8aa6-b160a41fd5fb" CreationDate="2016-10-09T17:34:32.180" UserId="3980" Text="You might consider the **[Dell Alienware 15 Laptop][1]** for $1,349.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It runs Windows 10 Home (64bit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel i5 6300HQ - CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB ddr4 - RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1060 - GPU (I think its the same as the desktop 1060)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB 7200RPM - HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/alienware-15-laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16915" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5940" RevisionGUID="e271613e-3e1c-480b-80bb-6ad97cd51004" CreationDate="2016-10-09T17:53:31.080" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="16917" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5938" RevisionGUID="15ed7240-f1d8-4dec-93d0-cc1f2e89d4b5" CreationDate="2016-10-09T20:13:04.253" UserId="4523" Comment="added statement of non-bias" Text="If you are looking for sub 30&quot; 4k UHD displays, TVs are all above 30&quot; from what I have been able to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;there are plenty of gaming PC monitors in the 4k UHD realm though.&#xD;&#xA;I usually stick with Asus products, though everyone has their particular favorite manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were going to upgrade to 4k using a less than 30&quot; screen, I would go with this, though it is currently out of my price range:  [example](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16824236677)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would like to add that I am in no way affiliated with the computer industry, and am not renumerated for recommending any brand `it is sad that some people need to see statements like this`" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5938" RevisionGUID="ca848f25-0e72-4a85-b3e1-801f8a4944f6" CreationDate="2016-10-09T20:17:24.460" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 61 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for sub 30&quot; 4k UHD displays, TVs are all above 30&quot; from what I have been able to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;there are plenty of gaming PC monitors in the 4k UHD realm though.&#xD;&#xA;I usually stick with Asus products, though everyone has their particular favorite manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were going to upgrade to 4k using a less than 30&quot; screen, I would go with this, though it is currently out of my price range:  [example](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16824236677)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would like to add that I am in no way affiliated with the computer industry, and am not remunerated for recommending any brand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5937" RevisionGUID="76e3a127-4dad-4f31-b015-fca9dad59bae" CreationDate="2016-10-09T20:31:39.587" UserId="4523" Comment="deleted 91 characters in body" Text="I use a MadCatz R.A.T.7.   It's ergonomic, customizable, max of 6400dpi.  &#xD;&#xA;I use it for everything, and only had to replace it recently after the old one got flaky after six years of heavy use...and some rough treatment when moving place to place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RAT 7](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095D1CM8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't work for amazon or madcatz...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16931" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5945" RevisionGUID="9764a746-4110-4217-b9fa-57884f582f05" CreationDate="2016-10-10T12:25:29.097" UserId="4065" Text="I'm waiting for delivery of a Supermicro X10SRi-F board, which takes a narrow ILM cooler. I don't yet have a cooler. I don't want to go for water-cooling for this board and there isn't server-style forced airflow, so it'll have to be an air cooler &gt; 135 TDP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found about 3 or 4 narrow ILM coolers around (Dynatron R14, Noctua D9DX/U9DX/U12DX, and Supermicro SNK-P0050AP4) but I can't see clearly how they physically fit and what their orientation would be on the board, so I'm stuck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm trying to ensure (1) that the cooler has its airflow towards the back of the case (with a consumer-ATX style layout with sockets at the back), and (2) that I can use all 8 RAM slots without being limited to just brands with ultra-low profile modules.  I'd like it quiet-ish but I can always buy an aftermarket fan so that's not a huge limit, but I'd prefer to avoid the Dynatron for that reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From online photos of the board, it looks like there's about 86-88mm between the RAM slots closest to the cooler (not 100% sure but I think so). I might be able to squeeze another couple of mm by slight cooler modding at the edges, if nothing else is better. I definitely prefer a quiet machine but don't need it silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which cooler should I buy? Or which ones shouldn't I buy?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16932" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5945" RevisionGUID="9764a746-4110-4217-b9fa-57884f582f05" CreationDate="2016-10-10T12:25:29.097" UserId="4065" Text="Narrow ILM cooler choice" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16933" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5945" RevisionGUID="9764a746-4110-4217-b9fa-57884f582f05" CreationDate="2016-10-10T12:25:29.097" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16934" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="31" RevisionGUID="77ca7ab0-c823-4879-9661-6f3dad8b38e5" CreationDate="2016-10-10T13:50:22.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5946" RevisionGUID="19fb32a8-3e7b-4f2c-a90f-ba203813d94c" CreationDate="2016-10-10T15:11:08.150" UserId="4523" Text="Even though a simple search of sites such as [newegg](http://www.newegg.com) would show examples I will post a few systems with the card specified, and within the stated budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ROG STRIX 15.6&quot; G-sync GL502VM-DB71 Intel Core i7-6700HQ, NVIDIA GTX 1060 6 GB, 16 GB Memory, 1 TB HDD, Windows 10 Gaming Laptop VR Ready](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234299) @ US$1399.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI 15.6&quot; GE62VR Apache Pro-024 Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 12 GB Memory 256 GB SSD 1 TB HDD Windows 10 Home 64-Bit Gaming Laptop VR Ready](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154302) On sale for US$1479.99 for next 15 hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[GIGABYTE 15.6&quot; P55Wv6-PC3D Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 16 GB Memory 256 GB SSD 1 TB HDD Windows 10 Home 64-Bit Gaming Laptop ](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834233180) @ US$1499.99" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5945" RevisionGUID="dc1def8d-55f2-487d-8010-f04eeaf61ca6" CreationDate="2016-10-10T17:26:35.027" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 31 characters in body" Text="I'm waiting for delivery of a Supermicro X10SRi-F board, which takes a narrow ILM cooler. I don't yet have a cooler. I don't want to go for water-cooling for this board and there isn't server-style forced airflow, so it'll have to be an air cooler &gt; 135 TDP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found about 3 or 4 narrow ILM coolers around (Dynatron R14, Noctua D9DX/U9DX/U12DX, and Supermicro SNK-P0050AP4) but I can't see clearly how they physically fit and what their orientation would be on the board, so I'm stuck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm trying to ensure (1) that the cooler has its airflow towards the back of the case (with a consumer-ATX style layout with sockets at the back), and (2) that I can use all 8 RAM slots without being limited to just brands with ultra-low profile modules.  I'd like it quiet-ish but I can always buy an aftermarket fan so that's not a huge limit, but I'd prefer to avoid the Dynatron for that reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From online photos of the board, it looks like there's about 86-88mm between the RAM slots closest to the cooler (not 100% sure but I think so). I might be able to squeeze another couple of mm by slight cooler modding at the edges, if nothing else is better. I definitely prefer a quiet machine but don't need it silent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which cooler should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16937" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="d8bb694a-1d91-49f0-93c3-c1b3a8f83f8f" CreationDate="2016-10-10T17:57:31.893" UserId="4667" Text="I am willing to build my very first computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the specs list I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 6700K&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5-EU&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro H60 CW-9060007-WW&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB SC GAMING 1835MHz Boost Clock&#xD;&#xA; - Crucial CT2K8G4DFD8213 Memoria RAM da 16 GB, DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair CS550M 550W Black&#xD;&#xA; - NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340W-W1&#xD;&#xA; - Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 1TB WD HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10, maybe Linux&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Since this is my first computer build ever, I am particularly concerned about two things:&#xD;&#xA; 1. Are 550W enough to power the Whole build? &#xD;&#xA; 2. Is it all going to fit inside the case I chose NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340W-W1?&#xD;&#xA;On top of that since I will be using this build for Video and Photo editing and some gaming is there any other pieces of advise you want to give me?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[build link][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/wdkDwV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16938" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="d8bb694a-1d91-49f0-93c3-c1b3a8f83f8f" CreationDate="2016-10-10T17:57:31.893" UserId="4667" Text="Advice to build my very first computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16939" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="d8bb694a-1d91-49f0-93c3-c1b3a8f83f8f" CreationDate="2016-10-10T17:57:31.893" UserId="4667" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16940" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="5a072bdf-7dbb-47fe-b74f-2b694609784c" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:07:00.210" UserId="57" Comment="Rephrase question to focus requirements" Text="I am willing to build my very first computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the [build][2] I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 6700K&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5-EU&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Hydro H60 CW-9060007-WW&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB SC GAMING 1835MHz Boost Clock&#xD;&#xA; - Crucial CT2K8G4DFD8213 Memoria RAM da 16 GB, DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340W-W1&#xD;&#xA; - Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 1TB WD HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10, maybe Linux&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a power supply that will work with this build. I am thinking of the [Corsair CS550M 550W Black power supply][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a viable alternative that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Meets my power requirements? (I believe the 550W is enough, correct?)&#xD;&#xA; - Costs about $80&#xD;&#xA; - Is energy efficient&#xD;&#xA; - Is modular (optional, but nice to have)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139059&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/wdkDwV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16941" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="5a072bdf-7dbb-47fe-b74f-2b694609784c" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:07:00.210" UserId="57" Comment="Rephrase question to focus requirements" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16942" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5947" RevisionGUID="5a072bdf-7dbb-47fe-b74f-2b694609784c" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:07:00.210" UserId="57" Comment="Rephrase question to focus requirements" Text="Power supply advice - 550W range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5948" RevisionGUID="3bc76c56-a4cc-4bb4-8f6c-dac395576d3e" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:40:51.803" UserId="1641" Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The security is also important so that I can load updates to it over next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, you want to keep this device for at leats 5 years, ¿Why not make a long time investment?, I would recomend the [UDOO Family][1] or the [Odroid Family][2] (Both came with their own Ubuntu flavor - As in Raspbian, you could use Tomcat to deploy JSP or JSF.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with no need for WiFi, HDMI, Audio etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main attraction of the Pi 3 are the Wi-fi and Bluetooth, but you ain't going to use those. So better invest in RAM and a best processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your budget an excellent investment would be the [Odroid XU4][3]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Processor:**  Samsung Exynos5422 Cortex™-A15 2Ghz and Cortex™-A7 Octa core &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPUs:** Mali-T628 MP6(OpenGL ES 3.0/2.0/1.1 and OpenCL 1.1 Full profile)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** 2Gbyte LPDDR3 RAM PoP stacked&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB:** 2xUSB 3.0 Host, 1 x USB 2.0 Host&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ethernet:** Gigabit Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Size:** 82 x 58 x 22 mm approx.(including cooling fan) **&lt;--- This is a BIG plus.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.udoo.org/usa/?___from_store=usa&amp;popup=no&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/main.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16944" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5948" RevisionGUID="c4ed8de1-5675-4af7-b7f5-a2c3ce9b13ea" CreationDate="2016-10-10T18:44:57.080" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 61 characters in body" Text="&gt; The security is also important so that I can load updates to it over next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, you want to keep this device for at leats 5 years, why not make a long time investment? I would recomend the [UDOO Family][1] or the [Odroid Family][2] (Both came with their own Ubuntu flavor - As in Raspbian, you could use Tomcat to deploy JSP or JSF.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with no need for WiFi, HDMI, Audio etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main attraction of the Pi 3 are the Wi-fi and Bluetooth, but you ain't going to use those. So better invest in RAM and a best processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your budget an excellent investment would be the [Odroid XU4][3]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Processor:**  Samsung Exynos5422 Cortex™-A15 2Ghz and Cortex™-A7 Octa core &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPUs:** Mali-T628 MP6(OpenGL ES 3.0/2.0/1.1 and OpenCL 1.1 Full profile)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** 2Gbyte LPDDR3 RAM PoP stacked&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB:** 2xUSB 3.0 Host, 1 x USB 2.0 Host&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ethernet:** Gigabit Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Size:** 82 x 58 x 22 mm approx.(including cooling fan) **&lt;--- This is a BIG plus.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.udoo.org/usa/?___from_store=usa&amp;popup=no&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/main.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5950" RevisionGUID="1be1d8d8-9ef1-4901-b340-a8a0cfe946fd" CreationDate="2016-10-10T19:48:49.190" UserId="3836" Text="Right now on Newegg, which I am guessing is your retailer of choice, there are better options available. Corsair's PSUs *are* good, and like any good PSU, they aren't really going to betray you (though I have seen them fail, that was in an office environment that I don't really feel reflects on how they would perform in a home environment). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, their brand name and the big marketing push that Corsair constantly makes puts a premium on their products and I don't usually find that their *real* value is reflected in their price compared to products from other vendors putting out PSUs in the same category. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this case, a good example would be the **[Rosewill Photon-650][1]**. It's the same price (cheaper if you don't do rebates), same efficiency, same modular cabling, but it's rated 100W higher and is made by the OEM Highpower. Corsair's is probably a CWT or [Great Wall][2] OEM, for reference. I tend to think those OEMs do similar build quality most of the time, but if you know differently then perhaps that will be the final differentiator for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People tend to think of Rosewill as a brand that doesn't really stand out, but they do sometimes go out and get good OEMs to do their work for them. Since Corsair mostly does the same for their PSUs, I find no reason to pay more for less in this situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182322&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;file=print&amp;reid=366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16950" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="ca260537-e64a-4c7b-97fb-b1a2f0382dd0" CreationDate="2016-10-10T20:10:05.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="16951" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5951" RevisionGUID="e8819aba-98a1-465d-8c71-8eefed4f87e1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T22:09:37.810" UserId="4618" Text="#Powerline Adapter with PoE Injector ($25-$65)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After several hours of research, I'm feeling pretty confident that a wireless bridge with a built-in 802.3af PoE injector doesn't exist except for [industrial applications](http://www.acksys.fr/en/product/13-wlg-switch/). However, you can get a Powerline ethernet bridge with a built-in POE injector, though they can be a bit harder to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note: no, I am not getting EoP confused with PoE. There really are devices that can go from EoP to PoE in a single unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lowest-clutter solution to connect the phone to the network and provide PoE is a **Powerline Ethernet Bridge with PoE Injector**, such as the [Comtrend Powergrid 9141s-poe Powerline Network Adapter](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comtrend-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-1-X-Network-rj-45-200-Mbps-Powerline/232086634742) or the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294), available on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![COP-Systems COPS-928-POE connects to a Powerline network and outputs PoE in one unit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Low clutter:** the only item close to the phone is Powerline adapter. The phone connects directly to the Powerline adapter, which outputs 802.3af, so no need for a separate PoE injector. The only cable is the Ethernet cable going from the phone to the Powerline adapter. There's not even a power cord, since the device is a wall wart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is slightly more clutter than a wireless bridge, because you also need a Powerline adapter near the router that is compatible with the Homeplug AV standard, such as the [TP-Link AV200](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4). But at least the extra clutter is with all your other network equipment clutter, instead of cluttering your desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram showing ISP &gt; Cable &gt; Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Powerline adapter &gt; Outlet &gt; Electrical Wiring &gt; Outlet &gt; Powerline adapter with PoE &gt; Ethernet Cable &gt; Phone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Easy setup:** Since this solution is for a home user who will probably need to set it up himself, you want the simplest possible setup. Powerline is plug-and-play: just plug in both adapters and push the button on each one to connect them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Better for phones anyway:** Powerline has less packet loss than WiFi, which means better call quality [citation needed].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Other Options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The options below all require a separate PoE injector, but with varying levels of clutter and cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Move the workstation closer to the router ($0).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![move the workstation][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Move the router closer to the workstation ($0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Use existing phone lines:** If the user has DSL internet service (e.g. CenturyLink) that runs over the phone lines, and they have a phone jack close to their workstation, a simple solution is to move the DSL modem to the phone jack next to the workstation, and plug the desk phone into the Ethernet jack of the DSL modem/router.[![move the router to a phone jack by the phone][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Use existing coaxial cable lines:** Similarly, if the user as cable internet service (e.g. Comcast/Xfinity/Time Warner), and they have a cable-TV-type (coax) jack close to their workstation, they can move the cable modem and router to that jack, and plug the phone directly into an Ethernet port on the router.[![move the modem to a cable jack by the phone][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Share your laptop's existing Wi-Fi connection ($0)&#xD;&#xA;If the user has a good Wi-Fi network, they can plug the phone into the Ethernet port on their laptop, then go to &quot;View Network Connections&quot; (type this in the Start menu search box) &gt; right-click Wi-Fi &gt; Properties &gt; &quot;Sharing&quot; tab &gt; check &quot;Allow other network users to connect through this computer's Internet Connection.&quot; This allows the laptop to act as a wireless bridge for the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The phone only works while the computer is turned on&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sometimes Windows updates will mess up the connection and you have to go back in and check the box on the &quot;Sharing&quot; tab again.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Wi-Fi tends to have more packet loss, which means the call quality will be lower.&#xD;&#xA;[![Use your laptop as a wireless bridge][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Coax Bridge ([$15](https://smile.amazon.com/DIRECTV-Broadband-Ethernet-Adapter-Generation/dp/B00ZDUQVFU)-[$20](https://smile.amazon.com/DIRECTV-Broadband-Ethernet-DECABB1MR0-Generation/dp/B004HAOWLW))&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have cable internet, but you do happen to have unused coax cables in your home's walls, you can use two coax-to-Ethernet converters to run the signal over the coax cables in your walls. This is basically the same as a [MoCA adapter](https://smile.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG), but cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Works best if the coax cables aren't being used for anything else. Works with DirecTV, but unclear if this works with Dish or other services that use the same coax cables.&#xD;&#xA; 2. More clutter.&#xD;&#xA;[![Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Coax adapter &gt; Coax cable &gt; Coax adapter &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Wireless Bridge ([$20](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA855RE/dp/B0195Y0A42)-[$30](https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW))&#xD;&#xA;Get a Wi-Fi signal repeater with an Ethernet jack. You will plug the phone into the Wi-Fi repeater, which will act as a wireless bridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. More packet loss/poorer call quality than a wired connection.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Easy for a home user to set up if his router supports WPS, but its likely many users will need tech support to configure the extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Router &gt; Wi-Fi signal &gt; Range extender &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Drop new Ethernet connection (~$100)&#xD;&#xA;Hire a contractor to run an Ethernet cable from your router to your workstation. This will give you the best possible connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Router &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKZ4r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/10jyx.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/d4pH7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrcRe.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/URKLx.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gi0C.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tOLLr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/g4cbw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ibSHX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5952" RevisionGUID="7c406cf9-670d-4843-a714-c405c9fbbfea" CreationDate="2016-10-11T03:33:34.217" UserId="4523" Text="As far as HDMI pass-thru receivers, yes they are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using a Denon AVR-1513  to route output from my PC/Xbox One, to my HDTV via HDMI.  This specific unit has 3 input with one output as far as HDMI goes, along with the usual optical/coaxial/RCA/ outputs you would expect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine is a bit lower end so it only has pin connectors while higher end units have bind post connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The model I currently have has been discontinued, but I would recommend the one I ended up installing for my parents:[Denon AVR-S500BT](https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S500BT-Receiver-Capability-Bluetooth/dp/B00JR6GJLW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476156498&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=AVR-1513)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This unit may/may not meet your needs exactly, but I hope at least gets you going in the right direction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I do not work for denon or any other entity*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16962" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5952" RevisionGUID="a0d08f19-89c0-4596-8654-39b9b9c87a92" CreationDate="2016-10-11T11:21:31.637" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 51 characters in body" Text="As far as HDMI pass-thru receivers, yes they are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently using a Denon AVR-1513  to route output from my PC/Xbox One, to my HDTV via HDMI.  This specific unit has 3 input with one output as far as HDMI goes, along with the usual optical/coaxial/RCA/ outputs you would expect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine is a bit lower end so it only has pin connectors while higher end units have bind post connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The model I currently have has been discontinued, but I would recommend the one I ended up installing for my parents:[Denon AVR-S500BT](https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S500BT-Receiver-Capability-Bluetooth/dp/B00JR6GJLW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476156498&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=AVR-1513)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This unit may/may not meet your needs exactly, but I hope at least gets you going in the right direction." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5956" RevisionGUID="f61c685f-df72-4dcf-9ba7-e803cb67692e" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:05:47.383" UserId="951" Text="I am choosing Wi-Fi adapter for my PC, the mo-bo is Asus z170 gaming pro and wonder which card to choose or whether go with nano usb stick like TP-Link TL-WN725N nano. I'll be sitting in the same room that roter is. I'm not sure whether it's better to go with PCI-E extension card or usb stick. What road (usb/pci-e) and what specific device would you reccomend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16968" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5956" RevisionGUID="f61c685f-df72-4dcf-9ba7-e803cb67692e" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:05:47.383" UserId="951" Text="Wi-Fi Adapter for PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16969" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5956" RevisionGUID="f61c685f-df72-4dcf-9ba7-e803cb67692e" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:05:47.383" UserId="951" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5956" RevisionGUID="2d7de8c6-849a-4f12-aeec-15ed713ba0f2" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:11:40.727" UserId="951" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="I am choosing Wi-Fi adapter for my PC, the mo-bo is Asus z170 gaming pro and wonder which card to choose or whether go with nano usb stick like TP-Link TL-WN725N nano. I'll be sitting in the same room that roter is. I'm not sure whether it's better to go with PCI-E extension card or usb stick. What road (usb/pci-e) and what specific device would you reccomend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use PC daily for work and gaming (so the ping counts), which equates to around 50 GB of transfer monthly.&#xD;&#xA;The budget is 50$ but I really do not want to spend more than 10$ for fancy radiators and additional antenas if it is not going to provide any benefit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5957" RevisionGUID="76766f22-58ac-4c1d-b634-7b6dd8afb10a" CreationDate="2016-10-11T23:26:42.677" UserId="4675" Text="Hoping to find a laptop that can drive an external 4k monitor. I actually don't need it for gaming. I just have a 43&quot; tv mounted above my desk and I want to take advantage of the real estate (e.g. open a lot of documents at once). Unfortunately, most laptops don't specify the max external resolution. For example, this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Lenovo-Z50-75-Signature-Edition-Laptop/productID.2740240000?tduid=(59f623e84acc587526a4aad32faec6e0)(256380)(2459594)(rtNvgWs52OI-h4mz.t3J1Y5mFvpGm_15Dw)()&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/inspiron-17-5759-laptop/pd?oc=cai175w7ph2404c2&amp;dgc=BF&amp;cid=22740&amp;lid=4279737&amp;acd=12309198376456750&amp;ven1=12715229-934410-&amp;ven3=570802990891566004&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or another recommendation (in the low price range)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5957" RevisionGUID="76766f22-58ac-4c1d-b634-7b6dd8afb10a" CreationDate="2016-10-11T23:26:42.677" UserId="4675" Text="Laptop that can drive an external 4k monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5957" RevisionGUID="76766f22-58ac-4c1d-b634-7b6dd8afb10a" CreationDate="2016-10-11T23:26:42.677" UserId="4675" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5958" RevisionGUID="d0ea1adc-e5d5-4fe6-8d6f-32f9fb6a3e8f" CreationDate="2016-10-12T03:35:49.013" UserId="3836" Text="I like the cut of this Lenovo's jib: the **[Ideapad 310 80ST0005US][1]**. With one of the new quad core Bristol Ridge APUs inside and support for HDMI 2.0, it definitely supports 4K screens. Likely to also be a relatively performative bit of hardware, as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a bit pricey, but perhaps now that you know you need HDMI 2.0 to be certain of 4K, you can find it, or something like it, cheaper elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834331565" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5960" RevisionGUID="974b1348-e7db-43b0-aecb-3564b8801fe9" CreationDate="2016-10-12T08:05:11.097" UserId="4657" Text="I have been reading about NFC and was wondering If it was possible to make a NFC scanner antenna to read NFC signals from a further distance. I do understand that the N in NFC stands for Near that's why I'm asking if its possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read a few articles and [this one][1] seems the best. It is a study around capturing NFC data and they have also made a [YouTube video][2] about this. I intend to do something similar but they don't describe the hardware to well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If someone knows what I need or a better solution please let me know. As in this article they want it to be relatively cheap and small and this is what I want to. I would appreciate if you include the scanner and antenna details if you recommend equipment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is appreciated, thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://terezapultarova.wordpress.com/2013/11/08/hacking-contactless-with-homemade-antennas-shortcomings-of-nfc/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://youtu.be/9QjxwejBPHs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5960" RevisionGUID="974b1348-e7db-43b0-aecb-3564b8801fe9" CreationDate="2016-10-12T08:05:11.097" UserId="4657" Text="Homemade NFC scanning antenna?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5960" RevisionGUID="974b1348-e7db-43b0-aecb-3564b8801fe9" CreationDate="2016-10-12T08:05:11.097" UserId="4657" Text="&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5961" RevisionGUID="2b564b32-64ea-4f07-bb3d-4df80059c68b" CreationDate="2016-10-12T10:03:48.983" UserId="2601" Text="[Steelseries Rival 100][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Costs around 40$ so not the cheapest but sa far as I'm concerned it really is a great mouse :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nice and sober design ; exists in different colors so you can pick you favourite&#xD;&#xA; - RGB lighting&#xD;&#xA; - Side &quot;back and forward&quot; (default, but mappable to macros) buttons&#xD;&#xA; - Is made of a soft matter that feels very comfortable in hand (as for the black and yellow version I am using, and the full black one)&#xD;&#xA; - Is wired&#xD;&#xA; - Button to switch DPI&#xD;&#xA; - Is fully editable (macros, colors, button roles, DPI modes, angle correction) through Steelseries Engine software, which is amazing (in comparison with, for instace, Razer Synapse)&#xD;&#xA; - Is still comfortable to use even after hours of playing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought it three months ago and I am a big fan of it.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5961" RevisionGUID="074f3b87-37e5-4bcc-acbf-3485c093be57" CreationDate="2016-10-12T10:09:16.703" UserId="2601" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="[Steelseries Rival 100][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Costs around 40$ so not the cheapest but sa far as I'm concerned it really is a great mouse :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nice and sober design ; exists in different colors so you can pick you favourite&#xD;&#xA; - RGB lighting&#xD;&#xA; - Side &quot;back and forward&quot; (default, but mappable to macros) buttons&#xD;&#xA; - Made of a soft matter that feels very comfortable in hand (as for the black and yellow version I am using, and the full black one)&#xD;&#xA; - Wired&#xD;&#xA; - Ambidextrous&#xD;&#xA; - Button to switch DPI&#xD;&#xA; - Is fully editable (macros, colors, button roles, DPI modes, angle correction) through Steelseries Engine software, which is amazing (in comparison with, for instace, Razer Synapse)&#xD;&#xA; - Is still comfortable to use even after hours of playing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought it three months ago and I am a big fan of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l8DqH.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16989" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5961" RevisionGUID="cab5f786-5c8a-4df5-a8ff-9326d23b79d6" CreationDate="2016-10-12T10:15:20.530" UserId="2601" Comment="added 103 characters in body" Text="[Steelseries Rival 100][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Costs around 40$ so not the cheapest but sa far as I'm concerned it really is a great mouse :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nice and sober design ; exists in different colors so you can pick you favourite&#xD;&#xA; - RGB lighting&#xD;&#xA; - Side &quot;back and forward&quot; (default, but mappable to macros) buttons&#xD;&#xA; - Made of a soft matter that feels very comfortable in hand (as for the black and yellow version I am using, and the full black one)&#xD;&#xA; - Wired&#xD;&#xA; - Ambidextrous&#xD;&#xA; - Button to switch DPI&#xD;&#xA; - Is fully editable (macros, colors, button roles, DPI modes, angle correction) through Steelseries Engine software, which is amazing (in comparison with, for instace, Razer Synapse)&#xD;&#xA; - Is still comfortable to use even after hours of playing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought it three months ago and I am a big fan of it. Plus I got a free mousepad from Steelseries for my purchase, and the two work perfectly well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l8DqH.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5960" RevisionGUID="b58ad7f1-611d-488d-b54a-0324e9e2fd7d" CreationDate="2016-10-12T10:49:46.863" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 34 characters in body" Text="I have been reading about NFC and was wondering If it was possible to make a NFC scanner antenna to read NFC signals from a further distance. I do understand that the N in NFC stands for Near that's why I'm asking if its possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read a few articles and [this one][1] seems the best. It is a study around capturing NFC data and they have also made a [YouTube video][2] about this. I intend to do something similar but they don't describe the hardware to well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If someone knows what I need or a better solution please let me know. As in this article they want it to be relatively cheap and small and this is what I want to. I would appreciate if you include the scanner and antenna details if you recommend equipment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://terezapultarova.wordpress.com/2013/11/08/hacking-contactless-with-homemade-antennas-shortcomings-of-nfc/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://youtu.be/9QjxwejBPHs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5965" RevisionGUID="42c533d5-e8bd-40b6-8a2b-fe3531ba64d3" CreationDate="2016-10-12T19:40:19.960" UserId="4685" Text="I'm looking to find a Bluetooth 2D Barcode scanner. I work at a local schoolboard and we receive shipments of Chromebooks for student use, so we have to tag and inventory each unit by inventory number and serial number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The boxes have a QR code (which contains the serial number) and we place a standard UPC barcode on them. I've been using an Android phone to scan these, but it takes more time than a scanner usually does (focusing camera, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just have four requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reads QR and standard barcodes (UPC). Datamatrix codes would be nice too, but necessary.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Uses bluetooth, not a 2.4Ghz receiver.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Under $250&#xD;&#xA; 4. Easy to read instructions, in English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had found [this scanner][1], but when we went to order it, it became unavailable. So, now I'm on the hunt for a new one and thought I'd ask here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/TEEMI-TMSL-50-Bluetooth-wireless-Automatic/dp/B01GRI34YM/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17007" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5965" RevisionGUID="42c533d5-e8bd-40b6-8a2b-fe3531ba64d3" CreationDate="2016-10-12T19:40:19.960" UserId="4685" Text="2D Barcode Scanner, with Bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17008" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5965" RevisionGUID="42c533d5-e8bd-40b6-8a2b-fe3531ba64d3" CreationDate="2016-10-12T19:40:19.960" UserId="4685" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17010" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5966" RevisionGUID="4394fde4-069c-4424-9210-5cc4b319f680" CreationDate="2016-10-13T00:10:57.343" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest the [ASUS PCE-AC56 802.11ac ](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320181&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=asus_wireless_adapter-_-33-320-181-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am running the older Wireless N version of that card in my Asus 990FX R2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17011" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="3dbcb66f-4c6a-4179-906b-c294aa787c5a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T00:50:37.207" UserId="4689" Text="I have a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to speed up my computer. To do this, I'd like to change my Hard Drive for an SSD (with more than 500 GB memory). I thought buying an SSD PCI Express (those used at Apple), but I don't know if this what is best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question :** Could anyone be able to suggest me a very good SSD for my computer?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17012" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="3dbcb66f-4c6a-4179-906b-c294aa787c5a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T00:50:37.207" UserId="4689" Text="Replace Hard Drive for an SSD - Suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17013" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="3dbcb66f-4c6a-4179-906b-c294aa787c5a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T00:50:37.207" UserId="4689" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17017" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="566031b2-a592-4cab-883c-917ba79dcd39" CreationDate="2016-10-13T01:03:51.500" UserId="4689" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17018" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="acd94e30-72fa-497e-926c-31fdf28be6e7" CreationDate="2016-10-13T01:59:03.290" UserId="4689" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17019" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="dc4b8953-9d2b-439c-bb95-8a3ee18ac80f" CreationDate="2016-10-13T02:10:00.277" UserId="4689" Comment="added 222 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I have a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to speed up my computer. To do this, I'd like to change my Hard Drive for an SSD (with approximately 500 GB memory). I thought buying an SSD PCI Express (those used at Apple), but I don't know if this what is best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question :** Could anyone be able to suggest me a very good SSD for my computer? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question :** What is the better choice between an SSD PCI Express and the [OWC&#xD;&#xA;480GB Mercury Extreme® Pro 6G SSD 2.5&quot; Serial-ATA 7mm Solid State Drive][1] ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSD7P6G480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17020" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="dc4b8953-9d2b-439c-bb95-8a3ee18ac80f" CreationDate="2016-10-13T02:10:00.277" UserId="4689" Comment="added 222 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17021" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="392e9519-a143-43ca-b05d-fda4b32ce779" CreationDate="2016-10-13T06:36:21.397" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="1755d603-415c-44dd-ad7b-7d5f10e93c38" CreationDate="2016-10-13T07:26:34.967" UserId="1466" Comment="added 1293 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from a friend. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (occuring when brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see &quot;PWM brightness&quot; to understand why this works).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="651d27b6-ec51-42ec-aa37-45bb62c5c39c" CreationDate="2016-10-13T07:57:26.683" UserId="1466" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from a friend. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17025" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="bcfd47bd-1a17-4406-a4c2-63221834b988" CreationDate="2016-10-13T08:02:54.063" UserId="1466" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from a friend. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="a980b80a-c641-4645-81cc-b2f05e532886" CreationDate="2016-10-13T08:27:17.993" UserId="1466" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200)&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from a friend. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17027" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="5966" RevisionGUID="afdb9445-2970-47b6-92f3-1c01bfc6966a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T08:44:42.300" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17028" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5966" RevisionGUID="8862dbaf-71f7-47c8-973d-c6d7204d0c1f" CreationDate="2016-10-13T13:27:43.357" UserId="4523" Comment="added 340 characters in body" Text="I would suggest the [ASUS PCE-AC56 802.11ac ](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320181&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=asus_wireless_adapter-_-33-320-181-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main reason I would suggest this card over the nano:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed technical specs on both adapters @ newegg.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TP-Link:  Wireless N speed up to 150Mbps &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus:  802.11a/b/g/n/ac: downlink up to 1300Mbps, uplink up to 1300Mbps (20/40/80MHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TP-link is much less expensive, and easier to install, but could be a bottleneck depending on your broadband package, or if you intend to run wireless AC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17033" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="a3c511d4-823d-4384-9006-0a9cc07d62f8" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:10:49.843" UserId="4618" Comment="43" />
  <row Id="17034" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="e7f76509-7f3e-4007-95d4-bf4bc02bdc6a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:48:50.680" UserId="4689" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4689,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;SpinningAtInfinity&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17035" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5970" RevisionGUID="fbbfb53c-ba56-408f-a272-1ae333c7104a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:01.137" UserId="4689" Text="I have a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012), and I'd like to speed up my computer. To do this, I'd like to change my Hard Drive for an SSD (with approximately 500 GB memory). I thought buying an SSD PCI Express (those used at Apple), but I don't know if this what is best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question :** Could anyone be able to suggest me a very good SSD for my computer? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question :** What is the better choice between an SSD PCI Express and the [OWC&#xD;&#xA;480GB Mercury Extreme® Pro 6G SSD 2.5&quot; Serial-ATA 7mm Solid State Drive][1] ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSD7P6G480/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17036" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5970" RevisionGUID="fbbfb53c-ba56-408f-a272-1ae333c7104a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:01.137" UserId="4689" Text="Replace Hard Drive for an SSD - Suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17037" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5970" RevisionGUID="fbbfb53c-ba56-408f-a272-1ae333c7104a" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:01.137" UserId="4689" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17038" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="9a2a653b-9eb9-4054-8e71-0d20f6a3eed8" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:28.600" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17039" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="5970" RevisionGUID="d73816b5-2fbe-49c8-b0b3-1cc4066bff2f" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:45.380" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/5967/replace-hard-drive-for-an-ssd-suggestion" />
  <row Id="17040" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="5967" RevisionGUID="d73816b5-2fbe-49c8-b0b3-1cc4066bff2f" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:45.380" UserId="8" Comment="from http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/5970/replace-hard-drive-for-an-ssd-suggestion" />
  <row Id="17041" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="5970" RevisionGUID="e3ecafd9-a323-4011-8133-ad70388aa67d" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:49:45.380" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5971" RevisionGUID="b81a2c62-1ec9-4c37-ac54-b2697a71af44" CreationDate="2016-10-13T22:25:10.090" UserId="2081" Text="Personally, I would spend the time and do a proper CAT5e/6 installation; meaning running cable in/through the walls, terminating properly, hiding the network gear so it's out of sight.  The benefit of being directly connected is the reliability of the connection is so much greater than that of WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to go wireless, I would forgo the USB route and go for a PCIe Wi-Fi adapter.  It's not that USB is bad in any sense of measure, it's just you will get better reliability being directly attached to the PCIe bus rather than the USB bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the [ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68)][1] on a computer out in a warehouse where we couldn't easily run a network cable until we could get a crew with a scissor lift.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] [![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What was nice about this particular model was that you had the option of plugging the antenna directly into the card or (what we did) use the optional &quot;base.&quot;  This allowed us to put the antennas up high, away from the metal desk as to not interfere with the radio signal.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I mention this over USB adapters and obviously cheaper alternatives is because you mentioned &quot;a gaming mobo.&quot;  Gaming requires bandwidth and this will deliver every time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/i4t6E0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/90OSAm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzJ4Km.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ2FIm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5972" RevisionGUID="53d2ac58-5f39-465f-bc58-97a357478b95" CreationDate="2016-10-13T23:14:41.397" UserId="2081" Text="Having done many ERP integrations in warehouses and retail, there was pretty much one wireless barcode scanner that stood out and that was [Symbol][1] (now Zebra).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They do make a [Bluetooth scanner - LS4278][3] and given your budget of $250 it comes in right under that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I wouldn't go for the smaller name scanners.  Symbol is an industry standard and their reliability is unmatched.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zebra.com/us/en/products/scanners.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjAKu.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://goo.gl/R8vN9U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5973" RevisionGUID="f2943ac1-d355-4c10-8bc0-122dcd7de1e5" CreationDate="2016-10-13T23:34:19.023" UserId="2081" Text="I'll throw in a recommendation for the [Dell XPS line of products][1].  These are super elegant machines with great specs.  I especially like the &quot;Infinity Edge&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your requirement of supporting 4K displays:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every XPS model, from the 13&quot; entry level to the top of the line 15&quot; all have the same display support, so your options here are plentiful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-9360-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwpZE.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5973" RevisionGUID="a1b63030-3c0f-4745-a031-5ad93121966d" CreationDate="2016-10-13T23:39:46.053" UserId="2081" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I'll throw in a recommendation for the [Dell XPS line of products][1].  These are super elegant machines with great specs.  I especially like the &quot;Infinity Edge Display.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your requirement of supporting 4K displays:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every XPS model, from the 13&quot; entry level to the top of the line 15&quot; all have the same display support, so your options here are plentiful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/xps-13-9360-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwpZE.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5974" RevisionGUID="7e20fa32-c528-4b5f-8af7-f9f219e3c53a" CreationDate="2016-10-14T00:05:20.313" UserId="2081" Text="If you are looking for the next 5 years of life, why not look at a [Dell Small Form Factor PC][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A core i3 or i5 (I recommend the latter) will be more than enough for 5+ years of use, plus you get the backing of a big name.  Parts are simple and easy to come by and because this is an Optiplex product (meaning it's for business, not home), it comes with built in security features like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* case tamper switching&#xD;&#xA;* vPro technology&#xD;&#xA;* remote management&#xD;&#xA;* option for KACE management&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price point for these machines are about $150 to $200.  They are more than the Raspberry Pi units but what you will save in time and debugging will more than make up for it.  Remember, it will be much easier to get peripherals and devices working on this in Linux than on a Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading is very easy.  I upgraded one that I use for my pfSense router to 8GB of RAM for under $20 with memory found on eBay.  I installed a 16GB SSD also found on eBay for less than $10.  The most expensive component was my quad gigabit ethernet card for $60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you are running a LAMP stack (may I also suggest you dump Linux and go [FreeBSD][3] as it much, much more reliable as an AMP server) you may want to add additional network ports.  This is easy and very inexpensive on this - no so on a Pi - just get a PCIe network adapter and away you go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/aqe42Y&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLEuum.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.freebsd.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5974" RevisionGUID="d0870367-5a01-44c9-91ec-316842c00afe" CreationDate="2016-10-14T01:36:57.513" UserId="2081" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for the next 5 years of life, why not look at a (refurbished) [Dell Small Form Factor PC][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A core i3 or i5 (I recommend the latter) will be more than enough for 5+ years of use, plus you get the backing of a big name.  Parts are simple and easy to come by and because this is an Optiplex product (meaning it's for business, not home), it comes with built in security features like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* case tamper switching&#xD;&#xA;* vPro technology&#xD;&#xA;* remote management&#xD;&#xA;* option for KACE management&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price point for these machines are about $150 to $200.  They are more than the Raspberry Pi units but what you will save in time and debugging will more than make up for it.  Remember, it will be much easier to get peripherals and devices working on this in Linux than on a Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading is very easy.  I upgraded one that I use for my pfSense router to 8GB of RAM for under $20 with memory found on eBay.  I installed a 16GB SSD also found on eBay for less than $10.  The most expensive component was my quad gigabit ethernet card for $60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you are running a LAMP stack (may I also suggest you dump Linux and go [FreeBSD][3] as it much, much more reliable as an AMP server) you may want to add additional network ports.  This is easy and very inexpensive on this - no so on a Pi - just get a PCIe network adapter and away you go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/aqe42Y&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLEuum.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.freebsd.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5975" RevisionGUID="2ca2e1c7-44be-4f2b-8686-18ca0087ea56" CreationDate="2016-10-14T02:20:20.133" UserId="4641" Text="I recently bought a GTX 1080 Founders Edition that I'm connecting to an ASUS ATX ROG STRIX X99 Gaming Board. I've heard that the new [Intel i7 Processor][1] would a good buy, but are there any other good gaming processors that would go well with my current equipment?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17049" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5975" RevisionGUID="2ca2e1c7-44be-4f2b-8686-18ca0087ea56" CreationDate="2016-10-14T02:20:20.133" UserId="4641" Text="Recommended Processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17050" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5975" RevisionGUID="2ca2e1c7-44be-4f2b-8686-18ca0087ea56" CreationDate="2016-10-14T02:20:20.133" UserId="4641" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17051" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2747" RevisionGUID="f53a8ca1-de43-43ec-8b6c-b055aecc8798" CreationDate="2016-10-14T02:27:34.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17054" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5976" RevisionGUID="827d541f-d9c2-4565-9be8-b5dfd5b956c5" CreationDate="2016-10-14T05:25:06.297" UserId="3836" Text="If you're not going to be overclocking (though if you have that system, *why wouldn't you be overclocking* is likely a better question), then the **[Intel Xeon E5-1620 V4][1]** is a better gaming processor than the Intel Core i7-5820K or the Intel Core i7-6800K. Those processors feature more cores and threads but lower clock speeds, and games don't yet really need more than eight threads. The lower price on the E5-1620 v4 is nice too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only real downside here is that this is a locked processor, so you won't have any ability to overclock. If for some reason you're not going to be doing that, then by all means get the Xeon mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=E51620V4BX&amp;c=CJ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17055" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5977" RevisionGUID="b45f7fe7-c132-4ead-892d-a43fe233a199" CreationDate="2016-10-14T09:22:06.763" UserId="2081" Text="It's going to be very difficult to find a quad port SATA controller that *does not* have RAID capabilities built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I would stay away from the smaller brands that don't have a strong reputation.  I have used RAID from [LSI Logic (now Avago)][1] because they are the OEM manufacturer for some big names like Dell and Apple.    In fact, you can get Dell and Apple branded RAID controllers to work in pretty much any machine; I have done so in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your application, you just need a simple quad port SATA RAID controller like the [LSI Logic 9211-4i][2].  Just remember, you will need the mini SAS to SATA breakout cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.avagotech.com/products/storage/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/6hd9TF" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17056" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5975" RevisionGUID="cad52c3f-439a-4114-bd37-7e32cf401066" CreationDate="2016-10-14T11:10:41.073" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17061" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5977" RevisionGUID="b59c90cc-24c2-49d6-974f-3309b2c38757" CreationDate="2016-10-14T13:41:52.797" UserId="2081" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="It's going to be very difficult to find a quad port SATA controller that *does not* have RAID capabilities built in so you might as well get it with RAID and just not turn on that feature.  It is nice, however, to know that you can go RAID if you want to later down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I would stay away from the smaller brands that don't have a strong reputation.  I have used RAID from [LSI Logic (now Avago)][1] because they are the OEM manufacturer for some big names like Dell and Apple.    In fact, you can get Dell and Apple branded RAID controllers to work in pretty much any machine; I have done so in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your application, you just need a simple quad port SATA RAID controller like the [LSI Logic 9211-4i][2].  Just remember, you will need the mini SAS to SATA breakout cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.avagotech.com/products/storage/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/6hd9TF" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17062" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5972" RevisionGUID="9d376a15-eda4-4364-be91-5675a1d2ecf7" CreationDate="2016-10-14T19:41:11.990" UserId="2081" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Having done many ERP integrations in warehouses and retail, there was pretty much one wireless barcode scanner that stood out and that was [Symbol][1] (now Zebra).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They do make a [Bluetooth scanner - DS6878SR][3] and given your (increased) budget this should work nicely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I wouldn't go for the smaller name scanners.  Symbol is an industry standard and their reliability is unmatched.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zebra.com/us/en/products/scanners.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjAKu.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://goo.gl/ZVm8tB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17065" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="585e2836-89f5-4a14-a79c-ea17d121aca2" CreationDate="2016-10-15T02:56:19.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5979" RevisionGUID="36ecfaaa-5a33-4992-8c25-2aa56132f3c0" CreationDate="2016-10-15T09:53:07.997" UserId="2081" Text="That's a tall order for a CPU from 2011. The Supermicro Motherboard MBD-C7Q67-O looks like it should fit the bill, however.  The only caveat is the front USB 3.0 headers, but those can be easily added with an add on card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The full specifications can be found [here][1].  As for the price, [Newegg][1] and [Amazon][2] both have it for more the $200, while you can get it for under $50 used/refurbished on [eBay][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://bit.ly/2dr0Pjx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/9kVMR9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ebay.to/2e6drf1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17068" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="070ec23a-f23d-497c-9491-a1bcfe47f90e" CreationDate="2016-10-15T10:39:22.200" UserId="2081" Comment="Added further detail based on comments" Text="I can not seem to find a motherboard that is compatible with all my parts without going over $80. Here are my [parts](http://pcpartpicker.com/list/4pPL9W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor&#xD;&#xA;- Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;- EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a motherboard that supports the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least two sata 6/gbs connectors&#xD;&#xA; - Support for ddr3 memory &#xD;&#xA; - Socket 1155&#xD;&#xA; - usb 3.0 front headers would also be preferred.&#xD;&#xA; - Micro ATX Form Factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know a motherboard that would work for me any help would be greatly appreciated. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17069" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5731" RevisionGUID="070ec23a-f23d-497c-9491-a1bcfe47f90e" CreationDate="2016-10-15T10:39:22.200" Comment="Proposed by 2081 approved by 8 edit id of 529" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17070" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5979" RevisionGUID="228d11cb-36c6-4a91-9b9a-bcd2dbfd94b8" CreationDate="2016-10-15T11:17:29.033" UserId="2081" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="That's a tall order for a CPU from 2011. The Supermicro Motherboard MBD-C7Q67-O looks like it should fit the bill, however.  The only caveat is the front USB 3.0 headers (I took it as &quot;you would like to have&quot; rather than &quot;required&quot;), but those can be easily added with an add on card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The full specifications can be found [here][1].  As for the price, [Newegg][1] and [Amazon][2] both have it for more the $200, while you can get it for under $50 used/refurbished on [eBay][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://bit.ly/2dr0Pjx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/9kVMR9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ebay.to/2e6drf1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17080" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="20c3e3a4-74bb-4ea8-80c5-e4b323f2ec43" CreationDate="2016-10-15T23:06:35.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5983" RevisionGUID="63ab7347-733d-4e9b-a146-c9553bfd63c2" CreationDate="2016-10-16T03:53:17.940" UserId="84" Text="Old-school night vision uses image intensifiers, which are analog photon multipliers, and which are either really crumby (Gen 1/2, which can be under $1000/tube) or really expensive (Gen 3/4 &amp;ndash; $3000-$8000 per tube).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern CCD sensors without infrared filters (a.k.a. &quot;digital night vision&quot;) outperform Gen 2 image intensifiers for a base cost on the order of $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find all sort of digital night vision cameras/scopes, but none offering 1x magnification and adaptable for head/helmet-mounting.  This is exactly what one would want for navigating or stalking game at night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must be missing something though, because there are plenty of digital monocles *with* significant optical magnification in the low 3-figure range, and plenty of head-mounted image intensifiers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So: **Looking for a head-mountable digital night-vision monocle, suitable for navigation (i.e., not significantly magnifying) that outperforms second generation image intensifiers.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17087" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5983" RevisionGUID="63ab7347-733d-4e9b-a146-c9553bfd63c2" CreationDate="2016-10-16T03:53:17.940" UserId="84" Text="Digital night-vision monocle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17088" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5983" RevisionGUID="63ab7347-733d-4e9b-a146-c9553bfd63c2" CreationDate="2016-10-16T03:53:17.940" UserId="84" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="5985fee8-4fba-459d-be41-d0fef09ec3a0" CreationDate="2016-10-16T08:12:52.353" UserId="4065" Text="I'm looking for an HBA with write caching, and data loss protection for the cache, that's suitable for FreeNAS. &#xA;&#xA;Its easy to find RAID cards with write caching but ZFS really needs sight of the original disk, so a lot of pages recommend an HBA, or at worst, a RAID card with its onboard RAID disabled or not in use.  LSI MegaRAID cards are said to be doubtful even used this way, because they obscure too much low level info about the disk from ZFS;   I don't know if this issue affects all RAID cards or just LSI-based ones.&#xA;&#xA;I don't mind if ZFS has very slight limitations (for example if it can't read SMART or needs a reboot to swap a failed drive) as long as basically it will work properly for data, and the card provides ZFS with fast write-back cache acceleration of drive writes that's protected against power loss. Some pages suggest that if that's acceptable, MegaRAID might be viable after all. But I don't know what else might be affected.&#xA;&#xA;So what I _think_ I'm after is either (1) an HBA rather than a RAID card, or at worst (2) a RAID card with true HBA mode as well as RAID, or (3) any controller card that can handle JBOD well enough that ZFS will be happy anyway. &#xA;&#xA;My criteria are:&#xA;&#xA;**OS compatibility:**&#xA;&#xA; - Compatible with FreeBSD/FreeNAS.&#xA; -  Gives a &quot;good enough&quot; view to the OS of the actual disks that ZFS will be happy and not have data safety issues with it.&#xA;&#xA;**Hardware spec:**&#xA;&#xA; - PCIe v2/v3 x4/x8 with &quot;normal&quot; PCIe connector.&#xA; - Either 2GB or 4GB of cache, ideally flash backed DDR for durability (of nvram, data retention after power failure, and no battery replacement every 3 years) but battery would be Ok if not. &#xA; - Not locked to a specific motherboard or family (I don't know if cards are sometimes locked to their manufacturer's motherboards but if so its not workable for me).&#xA; - Reliable brand/chips/firmware/drivers &#xA; - Fast, accepting and acknowledging writes to cache at least around 90k IOPS and 800 MB/s, and ideally if possible closer to 200k and 1.5-2.5 GB/s (multiple 10G NICs).&#xA; - Doesn't have to be a current product as I plan to buy 2nd hand on EBay if possible, but probably won't be too many years old because of other requirements. My guess is &quot;good for the time&quot; 2007 or later. Not sure if age means the supercap/battery is dubious and buy an older card + new supercap/battery.&#xA; - Not too fussy whether SAS or SATA, ideally SAS 12gb/s and 8 internal ports but this is flexible.&#xA; - Widely used or sold may help to keep price down and availability up.&#xA; - Rather obviously, cache not disabled in HBA mode if relevant!&#xA;&#xA;I've tried to look online. Suggestions I've seen mentioned are:&#xA;&#xA; - MegaRAID with multiple single disks, and accept the limitations on SMART/hot swapping (and hope it works otherwise?)&#xA; - _Maybe_ some of the HP Smart Array controllers (but which?). This might be the most promising, I can see many on EBay and separately, fbwc modules for sale as well. But are they just rebadged LSI controllers and will any of them be OK for the platform and ZFS, and meet my needs?&#xA; - _Maybe_ a native HBA or a RAID controller with a good HBA mode that has flash backed ram write cache (fbwc) but can't find details of any such models.&#xA;&#xA;Beyond that Im not sure what works.  Can anyone recommend a suitable card - or at least card family - that would do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="5985fee8-4fba-459d-be41-d0fef09ec3a0" CreationDate="2016-10-16T08:12:52.353" UserId="4065" Text="HBA with flash backed cache and FreeBSD driver? ( for use with FreeNAS)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="5985fee8-4fba-459d-be41-d0fef09ec3a0" CreationDate="2016-10-16T08:12:52.353" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17092" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="9b61f664-c816-4ad0-8932-b0cbab69703f" CreationDate="2016-10-16T08:18:47.590" UserId="4065" Comment="added 118 characters in body; deleted 9 characters in body; deleted 1 character in body; added 36 characters in body; deleted 16 characters in body; added 6 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an HBA with write caching, and data loss protection for the cache, that's suitable for FreeNAS. &#xA;&#xA;Its easy to find RAID cards with write caching but ZFS really needs sight of the original disk, so a lot of pages recommend an HBA, or at worst, a RAID card with its onboard RAID disabled or not in use.  LSI MegaRAID cards are said to be doubtful even used this way, because they obscure too much low level info about the disk from ZFS;   I don't know if this issue affects all RAID cards or just LSI-based ones.&#xA;&#xA;I don't mind if ZFS has very slight limitations (for example if it can't read SMART or needs a reboot to swap a failed drive) as long as basically it will work properly for data, and the card provides ZFS with fast write-back cache acceleration of drive writes that's protected against power loss. Some pages suggest that if that's acceptable, MegaRAID might be viable after all. But I don't know what else might be affected.&#xA;&#xA;So what I _think_ I'm after is either (1) an HBA rather than a RAID card, or at worst (2) a RAID card with true HBA mode as well as RAID, or (3) any controller card that can handle JBOD well enough that ZFS will be happy anyway. &#xA;&#xA;My criteria are:&#xA;&#xA;**OS compatibility:**&#xA;&#xA; - Compatible with FreeBSD/FreeNAS.&#xA; -  Gives a &quot;good enough&quot; view to the OS of the actual disks that ZFS will be happy and not have data safety issues with it.&#xA;&#xA;**Hardware spec:**&#xA;&#xA; - PCIe v2/v3 x4/x8 with &quot;normal&quot; PCIe connector.&#xA; - Either 2GB or 4GB of cache, ideally flash backed DDR for durability (of nvram, data retention after power failure, and no battery replacement every 3 years) but battery would be Ok if not. &#xA; - Not locked to a specific motherboard or family (I don't know if cards are sometimes locked to their manufacturer's motherboards but if so its not workable for me).&#xA; - Reliable brand/chips/firmware/drivers &#xA; - Fast, accepting and acknowledging writes to cache at least around 90k IOPS and 800 MB/s, and ideally if possible closer to 200k and 1.5-2.5 GB/s (multiple 10G NICs).&#xA; - Doesn't have to be a current product as I plan to buy 2nd hand on EBay if possible, but probably won't be too many years old because of other requirements. My guess is &quot;good for the time&quot; 2007 or later. Not sure if age means the supercap/battery is dubious and buy an older card + new supercap/battery.&#xA; - Not too fussy whether SAS or SATA, ideally SAS 12gb/s and 8 internal ports but this is flexible.&#xA; - Widely used or sold may help to keep price down and availability up.&#xA; - Rather obviously, write caching not disabled in HBA mode if relevant, and will play nicely with ZFS (doesn't 'hide' the disk itself or at least doesn't hide it too much)&#xA;&#xA;I've tried to look online. Suggestions I've seen mentioned are:&#xA;&#xA; - MegaRAID with multiple single disks, and accept the limitations on SMART/hot swapping (and hope it works otherwise?)&#xA; - _Maybe_ some of the HP Smart Array controllers (but which?). This might be the most promising, I can see many on EBay and separately, fbwc modules for sale as well. But are they just rebadged LSI controllers and will any of them be OK for the platform and ZFS, and meet my needs?&#xA; - _Maybe_ a native HBA or a RAID controller with a good HBA mode that has flash backed ram write cache (fbwc) but can't find details of any such models.&#xA;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a suitable card - or at least card family - that would do this? Multiple possibilities would help in case availability varies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="0db0d36f-5828-4920-a82e-c3c413c0952f" CreationDate="2016-10-16T08:25:48.390" UserId="4065" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an HBA with write caching, and data loss protection for the cache, that's suitable for FreeNAS. The disks will mainly be writing/sync, so fast write response is useful.&#xA;&#xA;Its easy to find RAID cards with write caching but ZFS really needs sight of the original disk, so a lot of pages recommend an HBA, or at worst, a RAID card with its onboard RAID disabled or not in use.  LSI MegaRAID cards are said to be doubtful even used this way, because they obscure too much low level info about the disk from ZFS;   I don't know if this issue affects all RAID cards or just LSI-based ones.&#xA;&#xA;I don't mind if ZFS has very slight limitations (for example if it can't read SMART or needs a reboot to swap a failed drive) as long as basically it will work properly for data, and the card provides ZFS with fast write-back cache acceleration of drive writes that's protected against power loss. Some pages suggest that if that's acceptable, MegaRAID might be viable after all. But I don't know what else might be affected.&#xA;&#xA;So what I _think_ I'm after is either (1) an HBA rather than a RAID card, or at worst (2) a RAID card with true HBA mode as well as RAID, or (3) any controller card that can handle JBOD well enough that ZFS will be happy anyway. &#xA;&#xA;My criteria are:&#xA;&#xA;**OS compatibility:**&#xA;&#xA; - Compatible with FreeBSD/FreeNAS.&#xA; -  Gives a &quot;good enough&quot; view to the OS of the actual disks that ZFS will be happy and not have data safety issues with it.&#xA;&#xA;**Hardware spec:**&#xA;&#xA; - PCIe v2/v3 x4/x8 with &quot;normal&quot; PCIe connector.&#xA; - Either 2GB or 4GB of cache, ideally flash backed DDR for durability (of nvram, data retention after power failure, and no battery replacement every 3 years) but battery would be Ok if not. &#xA; - Not locked to a specific motherboard or family (I don't know if cards are sometimes locked to their manufacturer's motherboards but if so its not workable for me).&#xA; - Reliable brand/chips/firmware/drivers &#xA; - Fast, accepting and acknowledging writes to cache at least around 90k IOPS and 800 MB/s, and ideally if possible closer to 200k and 1.5-2.5 GB/s (multiple 10G NICs).&#xA; - Doesn't have to be a current product as I plan to buy 2nd hand on EBay if possible, but probably won't be too many years old because of other requirements. My guess is &quot;good for the time&quot; 2007 or later. Not sure if age means the supercap/battery is dubious and buy an older card + new supercap/battery.&#xA; - Not too fussy whether SAS or SATA, ideally SAS 12gb/s and 8 internal ports but this is flexible.&#xA; - Widely used or sold may help to keep price down and availability up.&#xA; - Rather obviously, write caching not disabled in HBA mode if relevant, and will play nicely with ZFS (doesn't 'hide' the disk itself or at least doesn't hide it too much)&#xA;&#xA;I've tried to look online. Suggestions I've seen mentioned are:&#xA;&#xA; - MegaRAID with multiple single disks, and accept the limitations on SMART/hot swapping (and hope it works otherwise?)&#xA; - _Maybe_ some of the HP Smart Array controllers (but which?). This might be the most promising, I can see many on EBay and separately, fbwc modules for sale as well. But are they just rebadged LSI controllers and will any of them be OK for the platform and ZFS, and meet my needs?&#xA; - _Maybe_ a native HBA or a RAID controller with a good HBA mode that has flash backed ram write cache (fbwc) but can't find details of any such models.&#xA;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a suitable card - or at least card family - that would do this? Multiple possibilities would help in case availability varies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5985" RevisionGUID="0b312a05-d34b-42db-a4d2-c967d658140b" CreationDate="2016-10-16T11:15:45.413" UserId="2081" Text="I personally like the LSI (now [Avago][1]) brand of products.  They are actually an OEM for IBM, Dell, Fujitsu, HP, and (when they made Xserve) Apple.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a really good HCL ([Hardware Compatibility List][2]) on FreeBSD's website that list all the compatible HBAs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The card that I would recommend that hits all of your points is the [3WARE Sas 9750-8I][3].  This is actually an LSI OEM and (uses the LSI RAID on Chip - RoC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ZFS, you shouldn't have any issue with ZFS and these HBA's.  ZFS is just the file system and I have yet to have an issue with ZFS on any of the systems I have deployed with LSI HBAs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.avagotech.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.freebsd.org/releases/10.3R/hardware.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://goo.gl/W1P13k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9603f620-86e7-47ab-96e6-b0c09ed78974" CreationDate="2016-10-16T15:47:54.923" UserId="4706" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I've had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have support for Self Encrypting Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17096" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9603f620-86e7-47ab-96e6-b0c09ed78974" CreationDate="2016-10-16T15:47:54.923" UserId="4706" Text="ATX Motherboard with ATA password option and GNU/Linux compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17097" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9603f620-86e7-47ab-96e6-b0c09ed78974" CreationDate="2016-10-16T15:47:54.923" UserId="4706" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="fa3af0bc-d483-454e-8211-128b92e6578f" CreationDate="2016-10-16T15:56:20.867" UserId="4706" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have support for Self Encrypting Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX format&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="ef1fa62a-8558-4c5d-8a38-39ca16c6c829" CreationDate="2016-10-16T16:03:35.227" UserId="4706" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX format&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17100" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="7e68c287-c41b-4480-94c9-b00a87e4886a" CreationDate="2016-10-16T16:58:10.063" UserId="4706" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="7e68c287-c41b-4480-94c9-b00a87e4886a" CreationDate="2016-10-16T16:58:10.063" UserId="4706" Comment="edited tags" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX format&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17102" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="5131c1bb-8e2c-44e6-864f-22adc878a964" CreationDate="2016-10-16T19:43:13.523" UserId="4706" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have built-in support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX format&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17103" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="63ae2ce0-3e34-47f8-b958-56acc290b298" CreationDate="2016-10-16T20:17:58.123" UserId="8" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM2+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have built-in support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX form factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="b3a1fc73-3b7e-4705-8e06-31b659ca5353" CreationDate="2016-10-16T21:13:59.100" UserId="4706" Comment="edited body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (at least AM3+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have built-in support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX form factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5987" RevisionGUID="95f80795-8eef-4117-aca2-4485a1612bc1" CreationDate="2016-10-16T22:44:14.550" UserId="2156" Text="I recently (2 month ago) bought a HP ProLiant MicroServer Gen8 G1610T.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Here is what you get for about 170€ ([Here in Germany on amazon][2]) at the lowest configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 SATA III drive bays&#xD;&#xA; - One internal SATA slot which is intended to be used for the optical drive but it can be exploitet as 5th HD slot&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB ECC Ram which is extendable to up to 16 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Celeron dual-core with up to 2,3 GHZ&#xD;&#xA; - Socket 1150 (You could upgrade to a Xeon CPU if you like)&#xD;&#xA; - 3 gigabit Ethernet ports where one is shared with the ILO remote server management console&#xD;&#xA; - Yes you get a full blown remote management interface which allows you to monitor the hardware, install the operating system and you even have a virtual KVM which also allows mounting of ISO images over ethernet. However you need the professional license to use all features which costs about 40 €.&#xD;&#xA; - USB3 on the back (2), USB2 on the front (2) back (2) and internal (1)&#xD;&#xA; - one low profile PCIe slot which you could use to install a &quot;true&quot; RAID controller&#xD;&#xA; - An emulated RAID controller which can operate 1, 0 and 10 arrays.&#xD;&#xA; - And many more, have a look at the [datasheet][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm up and running with RHEL installed on a separate SSD so that I can use all 4 drive bays for my RAID 1 (4x4 TB WD red). I'm using it for several Docker containers to run LAMP stacks, NAS and cloud software and home automation servers but the device is running quietly and I'm satisfied with the performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problems I ran into:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only VGA graphics available, this was a little bit difficult at the beginning since I don't have a VGA or DVI compatible display here. I decided to use the ILO console to install things.&#xD;&#xA; - It was a little bit hacky to install the system on a SSD on the 5th SATA slot but [there are manuals out there][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can highly recommend this rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.hpe.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04128132&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/HP-ProLiant-MicroServer-G1610T-SATA-Server/dp/B013UBCHVU&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://homeservershow.com/attaching-a-ssd-to-the-odd-sata-port-in-my-hp-proliant-gen8-microserver.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17106" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="5966" RevisionGUID="f095bf4e-3490-423b-9de5-071a601c60c0" CreationDate="2016-10-17T00:06:17.060" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17114" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5989" RevisionGUID="5992f3cf-76a4-47a2-99f4-3d5f5e6fa016" CreationDate="2016-10-17T04:26:27.183" UserId="3959" Text="Can anyone give me advice on a good mechanical keyboard? It's a present for my girlfriend, so i don't know much about them. Probably used for a 50/50 mix of gaming and typing. Would really like one with RGB back lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget ~$200 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Appreciate any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17115" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5989" RevisionGUID="5992f3cf-76a4-47a2-99f4-3d5f5e6fa016" CreationDate="2016-10-17T04:26:27.183" UserId="3959" Text="Recommended mechanical keyboard for gaming/typing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17116" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5989" RevisionGUID="5992f3cf-76a4-47a2-99f4-3d5f5e6fa016" CreationDate="2016-10-17T04:26:27.183" UserId="3959" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5990" RevisionGUID="daa9e017-5fc1-4085-ac6e-116478520b70" CreationDate="2016-10-17T07:41:41.167" UserId="1678" Text="Looking at your requirements it may just be easier to get an Android smart phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can backup your contacts and numbers to a Google Account , standard smart phones will have a microSD card slot, a 3.5mm headphone jack and high quality sound.&#xD;&#xA;I suggest the Lenovo A806&#xD;&#xA;Specs are here: http://www.gsmarena.com/lenovo_golden_warrior_a8-6529.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5991" RevisionGUID="ca66e706-3307-4e02-9ed7-12e475cdbcfe" CreationDate="2016-10-17T08:46:21.970" UserId="4713" Text="The very best mechanical keyboard out there, bar none, at any price is the Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB with exclusive Corsair/Cherry MX Speed switches. The keys have an extremely nimble and responsive 45-gram actuation force and merely 1.2mm of key travel for both speed typing and gaming. The lighting is stellar with the only complaint from users is that there are too many lighting options to choose from. The high-impact aircraft brushed aluminum frame and knurled volume knob put this outstanding piece of engineering excellence &quot;over the top.&quot; You can pay more than $164.95 for a more expensive keyboard, but you would only be throwing away good money. [See what I mean][1]...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6y98b8JRsU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17124" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="6da81c15-7700-40e2-905e-71b3886de5d3" CreationDate="2016-10-17T13:01:30.937" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17125" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="ed72c841-f389-4ec1-9a0f-bd03f8479207" CreationDate="2016-10-17T16:02:17.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5995" RevisionGUID="0b2ec97b-5c4b-4049-80c0-5a0fd4c36609" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:12:07.317" UserId="2292" Text="I am looking for a colour LED or Laser printer for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonable photo quality (I understand lasers don't have great performance here, but for instance one of the Brother LED printers gets reasonable critique).&#xD;&#xA;* Duplex printing.&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi&#xD;&#xA;* £200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Scanner would be nice, does not have to have automatic feed (ADF).&#xD;&#xA;* LED rather than a laser printer would be ideal, but not essential.&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally not too large.&#xD;&#xA;* Printing from mobile supported (via WiFi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the [Brother DCP-9020CDW][1] [(also here)][2] or its [little &quot;Brother&quot;][3] (I'm assuming the only difference is the ADF?), but they are somewhat big and heavy (~20kg!). Any ideas? Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/brother-dcp-9020cdw-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/printers/53022/brother-dcp-9020cdw-review&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.itpro.co.uk/laser-printers/26105/brother-dcp-9015cdw-review" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17132" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5995" RevisionGUID="0b2ec97b-5c4b-4049-80c0-5a0fd4c36609" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:12:07.317" UserId="2292" Text="Colour laser printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17133" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5995" RevisionGUID="0b2ec97b-5c4b-4049-80c0-5a0fd4c36609" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:12:07.317" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17134" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5995" RevisionGUID="1b909c81-80b1-4c5c-8dbd-aa4ebd947e0c" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:18:30.730" UserId="2292" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am looking for a colour LED or Laser printer for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonable photo quality (I understand lasers don't have great performance here, but for instance one of the Brother LED printers gets reasonable critique).&#xD;&#xA;* Duplex printing.&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;* £200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Scanner would be nice, does not have to have automatic feed (ADF).&#xD;&#xA;* LED rather than a laser printer would be ideal, but not essential.&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally not too large.&#xD;&#xA;* Printing from mobile supported (via WiFi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the [Brother DCP-9020CDW][1] [(also here)][2] or its [little &quot;Brother&quot;][3] (I'm assuming the only difference is the ADF?), but they are somewhat big and heavy (~20kg!). Any ideas? Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/brother-dcp-9020cdw-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/printers/53022/brother-dcp-9020cdw-review&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.itpro.co.uk/laser-printers/26105/brother-dcp-9015cdw-review" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5996" RevisionGUID="ddd98857-360b-4544-82dc-5d4211211564" CreationDate="2016-10-18T02:07:21.067" UserId="4717" Text="I'm seeking a USB 3.x SuperSpeed hub with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB-IF USB 3.x SuperSpeed certified. If it's certified and it doesn't work well, it's probably no fault of the hub.&#xD;&#xA;- Self-powered: I prefer self-powered hubs because they can source more current and seem to operate more reliably than those that are bus-powered.&#xD;&#xA;- 4-12 ports. Fewer and the hub isn't very useful, more and the hub is too large.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm struggling with finding a certified hub. I purchased an [AmazonBasics 10 Port USB 3.0 Hub][1] and it works very poorly. Because it's not certified and I haven't purchased a second hub yet, I don't know if the issue is unique to the hub. Regardless, I would prefer a well tested hub that's gone through the trouble of [compliance testing][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Belkin hub][2] says it's certified in the name but I don't see the SuperSpeed certified logo and it also seems to be unavailable on both Amazon and the Belkin website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-IF-Certified-1-Meter-Micro-B/dp/B013P0JU66&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/ssusb_testing/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17137" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="5996" RevisionGUID="ddd98857-360b-4544-82dc-5d4211211564" CreationDate="2016-10-18T02:07:21.067" UserId="4717" Text="USB-IF Certified USB 3.x SuperSpeed External Self Powered 4+ Port Hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17138" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="5996" RevisionGUID="ddd98857-360b-4544-82dc-5d4211211564" CreationDate="2016-10-18T02:07:21.067" UserId="4717" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17143" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1876" RevisionGUID="ef3b8c3f-50c6-4b9c-b26f-85c575e97067" CreationDate="2016-10-18T03:11:09.860" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="5998" RevisionGUID="3f931397-8824-4144-a2f0-7ef78fdf626e" CreationDate="2016-10-18T05:51:25.817" UserId="4713" Text="The MSI [Apache Pro-024][1] is consistently one of the most highly rated laptops made in 2016. NewEgg lists this model at $1399 with a $50 rebate for a limited time only. Be aware that the 17&quot; model, Apache Pro-023 is the same price, but it will be large and have less &quot;portability&quot; as you put it. I note that of all the laptops sold in the world today, NZKshatriya and I chose the same model as the very best you will find. That should tell you something. I personally would opt for the 17&quot; version, but I'm not you and I won't have to lug it around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as HD gaming performance is concerned, one reviewer stated that his unit blew through Fallout and Witcher 3 at full detail settings without so much as a hiccup. Witcher 3 as you surely know is one of the most graphically intensive games ever produced. This comes as no surprise from MSI and the GTX 10 series. The infinitely programmable steelseries backlit RGB keyboard is a bonus that I would not even expect at this price point, but you get it anyway. What more can I say!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154302&amp;cm_re=apache_pro_1060-_-34-154-302-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5998" RevisionGUID="43484e92-1243-43da-9888-9f71a859cf5a" CreationDate="2016-10-18T06:06:04.847" UserId="4713" Comment="noted one additional significant feature" Text="The MSI [Apache Pro-024][1] is consistently one of the most highly rated laptops made in 2016. NewEgg lists this model at $1399 with a $50 rebate for a limited time only. Be aware that the 17&quot; model, Apache Pro-023 is the same price, but it will be large and have less &quot;portability&quot; as you put it. I note that of all the laptops sold in the world today, NZKshatriya and I chose the same model as the very best you will find. That should tell you something. I personally would opt for the 17&quot; version, but I'm not you and I won't have to lug it around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as HD gaming performance is concerned, one reviewer stated that his unit blew through Fallout and Witcher 3 at full detail settings without so much as a hiccup. Witcher 3 as you surely know is one of the most graphically intensive games ever produced. This comes as no surprise from MSI and the GTX 10 series. The infinitely programmable steelseries backlit RGB keyboard is a bonus that I would not even expect at this price point, but you get it anyway. What more can I say!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, I know what else: It has a 256GB solid-state Windows 10 system drive and another whole terabyte of magnetic drive storage. Are you kidding me? I've seen units going for $2500 that can't hold a candle to this rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154302&amp;cm_re=apache_pro_1060-_-34-154-302-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="19a636c7-9705-40e1-ba45-3fb32d2f4ad9" CreationDate="2016-10-18T09:05:32.170" UserId="1466" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6001" RevisionGUID="09aea16f-8e01-4e45-bace-db30a9814874" CreationDate="2016-10-18T18:06:18.373" UserId="4725" Text="The Asus PA329Q is out now:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PA329Q/&#xD;&#xA;- 4k, 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 10-bit IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;color spaces:&#xD;&#xA;- sRGB, Adobe RGB&#xD;&#xA;- Rec.709&#xD;&#xA;- DIC-P3&#xD;&#xA;- Rec. 2020 ** finally!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17159" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6002" RevisionGUID="e75e0161-10ce-4385-ac61-e4d2f6ed6640" CreationDate="2016-10-18T19:51:11.943" UserId="4727" Text="I have some parallelized codes. The codes on my machine Intel Xeon CPU E3-1270 v3 @ 3.5GHz, reduce from 9 hours when non parallelized to 1.37 hours when parallelized. This is a huge gain from a 4 cores dual thread machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I am looking to buy a server with many many cores, that I can use almost straight from the box (without having to change the way my codes are written). There seems to be a tradeoff between core GHz and number of cores. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not really have a budget but I am assuming one can look to things between 1.000gbp - 6.000gbp.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best price to value I can get? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17160" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6002" RevisionGUID="e75e0161-10ce-4385-ac61-e4d2f6ed6640" CreationDate="2016-10-18T19:51:11.943" UserId="4727" Text="Server for Parallel Programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17161" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6002" RevisionGUID="e75e0161-10ce-4385-ac61-e4d2f6ed6640" CreationDate="2016-10-18T19:51:11.943" UserId="4727" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17162" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4261" RevisionGUID="c0f62d4b-ada9-48b2-9862-afe122e2c51e" CreationDate="2016-10-18T21:21:54.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17163" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6003" RevisionGUID="726d030c-e5e5-4d8c-8cb7-d118a993aecb" CreationDate="2016-10-18T23:14:47.150" UserId="4713" Text="**Be realistic with this emerging technology**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I know of very few people who can tell the difference between the 65,536 colors of 16-bit RGB color and the 16,777,216 colors of 24-bit color. 10-bit-per-channel color makes possible more than **one billion colors** when the human eye can distinguish only eight million. I'm pretty good with color and have over 20 years experience building high-performance systems with a focus on resolution and color depth, and the only difference I can detect between 16- and 24-bit color is in monochromatic gradients or scenes in which, say, the blue hues of the sky or skin tones are very close together. HDR, obviously, stands for High Dynamic Range. Dividing each RGB color channel into 1024 gradients instead of *merely* 256 by itself does not automatically extend dynamic range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Already, quality IPS monitors are delivering million-to-one and higher contrast ratios. 40-60&quot; 4K televisions from Samsung, LG, Sony, NEC exhibit breathtaking detail and dynamic range and double as very passable PC monitors. While HDR is an evolutionary step forward, how valuable is it in actual use? At this point in time hi-fidelity enthusiasts would undoubtedly find greater gains by optimizing existing 32-bit technology than by obsessing over the questionable performance gains of so-called HDR. If you pay attention to product specifications, you will see that many monitors already support &quot;1.07 billion colors&quot; without explicitly claiming HDR optimization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Who among us would not  drool over this non-HDR 28&quot; 4K LG monitor!!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZLPB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6004" RevisionGUID="3d5e8e1b-fb37-4018-8eb3-ccc0af9b39f6" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:50:26.633" UserId="4713" Text="**Great System Design, Danielle!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For all of your components you'll need about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 170 watts for your 1060 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 160 watts for 16 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 91 watts for the i7-6700&#xD;&#xA; - 30 watts for your drives&#xD;&#xA; - 25 watts for the cooling system&#xD;&#xA; - 40 watts for the Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum TDP Requirement: 516 watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommendation: Opt for a 600W PSU to give yourself some headroom for OC or additional widgets. &#xD;&#xA;Here is a reasonably priced generic [600W PSU from ePower][1] for $39.99 &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If your heart is set on modular Corsair, this refurbished 650M is only $59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;newegg.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2J534J5991&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCjki.jpg(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139135)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6004" RevisionGUID="461b4ead-5e93-45b2-8ef5-b67c28dce383" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:58:58.017" UserId="4713" Comment="second edit to fix the link" Text="**Great System Design, Danielle!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For all of your components you'll need about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 170 watts for your 1060 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 160 watts for 16 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 91 watts for the i7-6700&#xD;&#xA; - 30 watts for your drives&#xD;&#xA; - 25 watts for the cooling system&#xD;&#xA; - 40 watts for the Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum TDP Requirement: 516 watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommendation: Opt for a 600W PSU to give yourself some headroom for OC or additional widgets. &#xD;&#xA;Here is a reasonably priced generic [600W PSU from ePower][1] for $39.99 &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If your heart is set on modular Corsair, this [refurbished 650M][2] is only $59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;newegg.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2J534J5991&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139135&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCjki.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1678" RevisionGUID="4cba6fde-c531-4937-8103-1835c801c3dd" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:32:42.493" UserId="4713" Comment="added an image for impact" Text="The Logitech G502 would be great for your purpose. It has multiple macro buttons and all the buttons are programmable through software. The mouse is ergonomic and is a great gaming mouse. It is also not very expensive for what it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum** -- ($59.99 on eBay.com) [![][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRt9x.png&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17167" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1678" RevisionGUID="4cba6fde-c531-4937-8103-1835c801c3dd" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:32:42.493" Comment="Proposed by 4713 approved by -1 edit id of 530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1678" RevisionGUID="3a9eab28-f0fe-4a52-8821-5e7f2964d137" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:32:42.493" UserId="155" Comment="added image and inline link" Text="The [Logitech G502][2] would be great for your purpose. It has multiple macro buttons and all the buttons are programmable through software. The mouse is ergonomic and is a great gaming mouse. It is also not very expensive for what it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRt9x.png&#xD;&#xA;[2]:http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g502-proteus-spectrum-rgb-gaming-mouse&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17169" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5996" RevisionGUID="3969d590-69cb-4a14-b513-a21b090428b4" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:34:02.923" UserId="4717" Comment="Minor rewording; clarify that a recommendation is requested" Text="I'm seeking a recommendation for a USB 3.x SuperSpeed hub with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB-IF USB 3.x SuperSpeed certified. If it's certified and it doesn't work well, it's probably no fault of the hub.&#xD;&#xA;- Self-powered: I prefer self-powered hubs because they can source more current and seem to operate more reliably than those that are bus-powered.&#xD;&#xA;- 4-12 ports. Fewer and the hub isn't very useful, more and the hub is too large.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm struggling with finding a certified hub. I purchased an [AmazonBasics 10 Port USB 3.0 Hub][1] and it works very poorly. Because it's not certified and I haven't purchased a second hub yet, I don't know if the issue is unique to the hub. Regardless, I would prefer a well tested hub that's gone through the trouble of [compliance testing][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Belkin hub][2] says it's certified in the name but I don't see the SuperSpeed certified logo and it also seems to be unavailable on both Amazon and the Belkin website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-IF-Certified-1-Meter-Micro-B/dp/B013P0JU66&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/ssusb_testing/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6001" RevisionGUID="11aeba49-f795-45c0-afe7-0be185262960" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:34:21.450" UserId="155" Comment="formatting" Text="The [Asus PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PA329Q) is out now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4k, 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 10-bit IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Color spaces:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- sRGB, Adobe RGB&#xD;&#xA;- Rec.709&#xD;&#xA;- DIC-P3&#xD;&#xA;- Rec. 2020&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6004" RevisionGUID="93c7099b-0010-448b-a5f5-c5b8a0c92ec9" CreationDate="2016-10-19T03:50:30.330" UserId="4713" Comment="misspelled the individual's username" Text="**Great System Design, Daniele!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For all of your components you'll need about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 170 watts for your 1060 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 160 watts for 16 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 91 watts for the i7-6700&#xD;&#xA; - 30 watts for your drives&#xD;&#xA; - 25 watts for the cooling system&#xD;&#xA; - 40 watts for the Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum TDP Requirement: 516 watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommendation: Opt for a 600W PSU to give yourself some headroom for OC or additional widgets. &#xD;&#xA;Here is a reasonably priced generic [600W PSU from ePower][1] for $39.99 &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If your heart is set on modular Corsair, this [refurbished 650M][2] is only $59.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;newegg.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2J534J5991&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139135&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCjki.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6005" RevisionGUID="2fd59428-8ef3-4b08-9f3f-e8e6d86eb878" CreationDate="2016-10-19T05:31:53.530" UserId="4728" Text="I am looking for a microprocessor (Arduino, Raspberry pi, etc..) that can connect to the internet. Currently I am using a [Photon][1] by particle. This small device allows me to connect the the internet and use their server to do some pretty cool things. However, it is too expensive. I am trying to make a prototype for a product and the Photon is $19. I am looking for something that is significantly cheaper and can be powered by batteries. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a cheap microprocessor that can connect to the internet via WiFi, control LEDs, and be powered by batteries?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.particle.io/products/hardware/photon-wifi-dev-kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6005" RevisionGUID="2fd59428-8ef3-4b08-9f3f-e8e6d86eb878" CreationDate="2016-10-19T05:31:53.530" UserId="4728" Text="Microprocessor that can connect to the internet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6005" RevisionGUID="2fd59428-8ef3-4b08-9f3f-e8e6d86eb878" CreationDate="2016-10-19T05:31:53.530" UserId="4728" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17176" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="5865" RevisionGUID="eff5417e-14b8-47fb-bd64-357ec11c53db" CreationDate="2016-10-19T12:20:30.963" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17177" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6002" RevisionGUID="a65c443a-75ae-4903-9945-96a96bbc3923" CreationDate="2016-10-19T13:26:03.920" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6006" RevisionGUID="5d2f4584-9639-467e-ab5e-813e9c6434c3" CreationDate="2016-10-19T15:04:35.333" UserId="4523" Text="In Make magazine, Vol. 49 March 2016, they mention the [C.H.I.P](https://getchip.com/pages/chip), this is a $9 single board computer, though it is not yet shipping, and is scheduled to start shipping November 2016.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Adafruit Trinket - Mini Microcontroller - 5V Logic](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1501)  $6.95.  Full details listen at linked site.  Information on page does state to use the 3V version if you intend to run on LiPo batteries, and for devices that require 3V logic.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are a couple of listed tradeoffs for this unit, again from the units data page:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some computers' USB v3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's bootloader. Simply use a USB v2 port or a USB hub in between.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also states that while the Trinket is programmed via the Aduino IDE, it is not 100% Arduino compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17179" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5983" RevisionGUID="dfe309c0-d0e5-46d3-aa2e-5ef2eb03e08e" CreationDate="2016-10-19T17:00:46.750" UserId="84" Comment="added 539 characters in body" Text="Old-school night vision uses image intensifiers, which are analog photon multipliers, and which are either really crumby (Gen 1/2, which can be under $1000/tube) or really expensive (Gen 3/4 &amp;ndash; $3000-$8000 per tube).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern CCD sensors without infrared filters (a.k.a. &quot;digital night vision&quot;) outperform Gen 2 image intensifiers for a base cost on the order of $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find all sort of digital night vision cameras/scopes, but none offering 1x magnification and adaptable for head/helmet-mounting.  This is exactly what one would want for navigating or stalking game at night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I must be missing something though, because there are plenty of digital monocles *with* significant optical magnification in the low 3-figure range, and plenty of head-mounted image intensifiers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So: **Looking for a head-mountable digital night-vision monocle, suitable for navigation (i.e., not significantly magnifying) that outperforms second generation image intensifiers.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Amendment:* Note that this is not a big ask.  One could *almost* build it from off-the-shelf parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4k day/night IP security camera ($100-200)&#xD;&#xA;* HD eyepiece (i.e., half of a pair of ~$200 video eyeglasses)&#xD;&#xA;* [Infrared illuminator](https://www.atncorp.com/infrared-illuminator-ir850-pro) (up to $150)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, if someone knows of a clever interface for an IP camera to video eyeglasses then it just becomes a matter of finding a camera with the right field of view, and ideally some convenient way to digitally zoom the image in either the glasses or the camera." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17184" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="776add14-d327-4e68-8466-6ec16afffc23" CreationDate="2016-10-20T01:54:21.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17187" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="86859a21-909b-461e-ada3-94ce54283899" CreationDate="2016-10-20T03:35:35.887" UserId="4706" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="I have two [Self Encrypting Drive (SED)][1] and I'm using Debian as my main Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current motherboard ([ASUS M5A97 R2.0][2]) is GNU/Linux compatible (I had hard time to find a GNU/Linux compatible motherboard) but don't have any option in the BIOS to set ATA passwords for my SEDs, so I can't use the built-in encryption of my drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard should (be) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD compatible (AM3+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GNU/Linux and Windows compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have built-in support for Self Encrypting Drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ATX form factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TPM support and others functionalities of current motherboards would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-based_full_disk_encryption&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/fr/Motherboards/M5A97_R20/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17188" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="994342de-446b-4aef-94fb-f5bc95b98aea" CreationDate="2016-10-20T10:00:20.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17192" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6009" RevisionGUID="981048a3-9ed7-41f0-a0d8-68692ecb8264" CreationDate="2016-10-20T10:58:58.787" UserId="4706" Text="After several calls/mails to the 4 major &quot;grand public&quot; motherboard manufacturer, it's was either a non-understanding/no response or we will call you back later to have more details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's seems they don't want to implement it do to the fear that novice user will look themselves out of their SEDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was only be able to speak with the [technical support of ASRock][1] (here the raw answer) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; All our Intel 100 Series Mainboard have this function. Built in.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Our AMD mainboards not. But it might be possible to make a new BIOS&#xD;&#xA;&gt; for that. &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I can check with BIOS department, if they can provide&#xD;&#xA;&gt; special BIOS for the mainboard you wish to have…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically you should buy [ASRock motherboards][2] if you want this, either directly if it's a Intel 100 series or if not, asking before buying if they can make you a custom BIOS with this option for the board you are willing to buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://support@asrock.nl&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.fr.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17211" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6006" RevisionGUID="40938f3f-72c7-43c6-a4da-af13fb5d1e90" CreationDate="2016-10-20T17:56:16.637" UserId="4523" Comment="Added additional information, address flaw in original post" Text="In Make magazine, Vol. 49 March 2016, they mention the [C.H.I.P](https://getchip.com/pages/chip), this is a $9 single board computer, though it is not yet shipping, and is scheduled to start shipping November 2016.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Adafruit Trinket - Mini Microcontroller - 5V Logic](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1501)  $6.95.  Full details listen at linked site.  Information on page does state to use the 3V version if you intend to run on LiPo batteries, and for devices that require 3V logic.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are a couple of listed tradeoffs for this unit, again from the units data page:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some computers' USB v3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's bootloader. Simply use a USB v2 port or a USB hub in between.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also states that while the Trinket is programmed via the Aduino IDE, it is not 100% Arduino compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT Oct 20, '16:  I failed to notice that the Trinket does not seem to have internet access.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a tiny programmable wifi card [ESP8266](http://makezine.com/2015/04/01/esp8266-5-microcontroller-wi-fi-now-arduino-compatible/)  So you can add wireless capability to devices without built in LAN/Wifi connectivity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17222" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="49958439-6199-40a6-8d3b-a23007485e8d" CreationDate="2016-10-20T22:21:09.873" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6016" RevisionGUID="007d43ca-7fbe-403f-8849-cab474de82d4" CreationDate="2016-10-21T02:12:22.713" UserId="4743" Text="550W is enough and gives you enough room for overclocking I think... Also, the power supply you have in mind is Gold rated and, as I understand, that's as important as the watt quantity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the 1060 is very power efficient so you should be ok. As an alternative, I have the EVGA 550W G2 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&amp;cm_re=evga_550w_g2-_-17-438-053-_-Product  which is also great, its pretty much like the one you indicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a i5-6600k and a nVidia GTX 970 which is much more power hungry than your graphics card, both are overclocked, 16 gb of ram and everything works fine!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17227" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6001" RevisionGUID="75954ac0-4873-459f-a923-2ad6e9468633" CreationDate="2016-10-21T09:18:16.973" UserId="4744" Comment="clarification" Text="The [Asus PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PA329Q) is out now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4k, 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 10-bit IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Color spaces:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- sRGB, Adobe RGB&#xD;&#xA;- Rec.709&#xD;&#xA;- DIC-P3&#xD;&#xA;- Rec. 2020 (this last feature is the missing requirement for HDR up until now)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17228" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6001" RevisionGUID="75954ac0-4873-459f-a923-2ad6e9468633" CreationDate="2016-10-21T09:18:16.973" Comment="Proposed by 4744 approved by -1 edit id of 531" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6001" RevisionGUID="9ae1bd9d-9516-48b0-af7f-3e4bec6d0292" CreationDate="2016-10-21T09:18:16.973" UserId="203" Comment="clarification" Text="The [Asus PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PA329Q) is out now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4k, 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;- 10-bit IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Color spaces:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- sRGB, Adobe RGB&#xD;&#xA;- Rec.709&#xD;&#xA;- DIC-P3&#xD;&#xA;- Rec. 2020, the wide gamut color space specified for HDR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17230" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5572" RevisionGUID="a6e0dc80-fe84-44c6-84f4-8ddcbf6d5791" CreationDate="2016-10-21T12:01:25.443" UserId="4234" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Are there any good small android smartphones? I've been using LG G2 Mini for almost two years now, and it has always seemed too big for me (neither am I happy with its performance). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be honest, what I'm looking for is a phone that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. is small (given the current trend, the smaller the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. has Android&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. works well with Pokemon Go (good performance and battery). :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used a little bit of iPhone 5s and it's just what I want, but Apple OS slightly plays on my nerves. Is there any Android phone that can compete with it over size, performance and battery?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A decent size of internal memory is also welcomed. My old LG G2 Mini got completely stuck even though I moved literally everything I could to the SD card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17235" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6016" RevisionGUID="7c6d621c-fc01-446d-a57f-a9d055239d7a" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:22:11.790" UserId="4743" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="550W is enough and gives you enough room for overclocking I think... Also, the power supply you have in mind is Gold rated and, as I understand, that's as important as the watt quantity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the 1060 is very power efficient so you should be ok. As an alternative, I have the [EVGA 550W G2](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&amp;cm_re=evga_550w_g2-_-17-438-053-_-Product)  which is also great, its pretty much like the one you indicated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a i5-6600k and a nVidia GTX 970 which is much more power hungry than your graphics card, both are overclocked, 16 gb of ram and everything works fine!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6020" RevisionGUID="c091b95c-c92b-4d50-83ce-aa8f23380865" CreationDate="2016-10-22T07:25:42.900" UserId="4523" Text="using Cooler Masters PSU calculator, the power draw for your listed components is 297w.....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Outervision.com lists at 287w&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI.com shows the lowest at 248w.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend:  [EVGA SuperNOVA 550](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&amp;ignorebbr=1).  It is fully modular, has plenty of power for your current application plus future modifications. The unit is certified 80 Plus Gold.  And the unit comes with a 7 year warranty, which never hurts anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I saw missing from your build was Optical media and/or magnetic/spindle based storage.  Are you planning on only using the one SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17253" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="d388f0e0-69da-442f-964c-102dcabdca85" CreationDate="2016-10-22T12:11:20.753" UserId="2086" Text="I am thinking of buying powerline wifi extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want those that have only 1 transmiter, will be located near my main modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a few receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to avoid &quot;pairs&quot;. The wifi would get signal from one and several&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last requirement is wifi support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At least on the receivers one. All receivers must be able to communicate via wifi. That way I effectively have mini routers in each room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this even possible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17254" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="d388f0e0-69da-442f-964c-102dcabdca85" CreationDate="2016-10-22T12:11:20.753" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me powerline wifi extension with 1 transmiter and many receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17255" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="d388f0e0-69da-442f-964c-102dcabdca85" CreationDate="2016-10-22T12:11:20.753" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17257" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="d6534ccb-e2d1-4ced-b1f7-d32860d12f0f" CreationDate="2016-10-22T12:13:30.453" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6024" RevisionGUID="7d19064c-6be7-4f2a-b009-8b5483448098" CreationDate="2016-10-22T17:08:56.507" UserId="4755" Text="As the title states, I am planning to make a cluster to donate its processing power to boinc. I am looking for a equally powerful or even more powerful board that costs less than the raspberry pi 2/3. I want it to be compatible with Gridcoin Wallet. I also want to run Raspbian/Debian on the boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To sum everything up,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A computer that's more/equivalant in terms of power with the RPi 2/3 but cheaper. Amazon UK links are appreciated, you can send me eBay UK links if there are any special offers. I want it to be new NOT USED.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The computer shouldn't have unnecessary features like built in wifi, if the board has it, then it's fine. The computer should be able to run Gridcoin Wallet and can be able to run on Debian/Raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hopefully that sums it all up...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help or suggestions are much appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6024" RevisionGUID="7d19064c-6be7-4f2a-b009-8b5483448098" CreationDate="2016-10-22T17:08:56.507" UserId="4755" Text="Better and cheaper Raspberry Pi alternative for BOINC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6024" RevisionGUID="7d19064c-6be7-4f2a-b009-8b5483448098" CreationDate="2016-10-22T17:08:56.507" UserId="4755" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6025" RevisionGUID="fbe078ce-e6e7-4b05-88cb-02c3adaf49c1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T18:56:01.023" UserId="4757" Text="Regarding of the extreme slowness of the computer with whom I work, and saw that I'd like to use the laptop for personal purposes, I was thinking of buying a laptop suited to programming. &#xD;&#xA;I can keep a big-budget (1500 €) but I want a PC that allows me to not have any kind of slowdown and speed of compilation / execution of programs for the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, the PC must be suitable for programming and last long. &#xD;&#xA;Traveling a lot, if it were light it would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You who would you recommend with these requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Europe market (Italy) / last quarter 2016" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17267" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6025" RevisionGUID="fbe078ce-e6e7-4b05-88cb-02c3adaf49c1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T18:56:01.023" UserId="4757" Text="Need laptop for programming: durable, reliable, fast and long battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17268" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6025" RevisionGUID="fbe078ce-e6e7-4b05-88cb-02c3adaf49c1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T18:56:01.023" UserId="4757" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17269" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6026" RevisionGUID="7affa284-bf67-4a37-8c70-0bafff71c9b2" CreationDate="2016-10-22T19:09:06.417" UserId="4743" Text="The Razer Blade Stealth looks insanely good and is the laptop I would definitely buy if I had the money... It will suit all your needs at the price you want, but it might be slightly overkill, however, if you want the fastest possible I suggest this one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Razer Site](http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-systems/razer-blade-stealth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Page](https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Stealth-Touchscreen-Ultrabook-Generation/dp/B01L3EX8Y6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477163096&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=razer+blade+stealth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think macs also do a fine job and I see lots of programmers using them, but I don't really like Mac OS and don't know enough about them to give good advice" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17271" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6028" RevisionGUID="1cd79c02-8c1a-4ff8-9d05-3a07d16f47e6" CreationDate="2016-10-22T21:02:05.053" UserId="4755" Text="Yeah, it is very opinion based... at the end of the day, it is your decision. I have a Motorola Moto Watch 2nd Gen, the starting price is £239ish. I like watches with a circular display, so I chose this watch. At that time, the Huawei watch was a bit more costly. Despite the 'flat tire' display of the Moto Watch (the black bit at the bottom of the display) I sort of liked the watch. It's got great specs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My best tip for you is to look at reviews and most importantly the specifications of the device itself. Trust me, the specs will tell you a lot about the watch!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope I helped!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6003" RevisionGUID="76e233c6-81ca-4ec4-af1b-fbaa2c4ce84c" CreationDate="2016-10-22T22:10:26.280" UserId="4713" Comment="further explanation of why alternatives could be considered" Text="**Be realistic with this emerging technology**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the most past, few people can tell the difference between the 65,536 colors of 16-bit RGB color and the 16,777,216 colors of 24-bit color, let alone the more than **one billion colors** of HDR. The human eye can distinguish only eight million colors. As an experiment, make a quick app or a web page with two adjacent squares on it. Make one square the color #4747E7 and the other box #4747E8. Then ask ten people if they are the same color. Do the same experiment with two squares that are one pixel in height. You begin to see the non-essential nature of 10-bit color channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just in case you want to see it for yourself, paste this code in your browser's address bar now and hit Enter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    javascript:document.write(&quot;&lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:4747E7'&gt;A&lt;/div&gt;&quot; + &#xD;&#xA;                              &quot;&lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:4747E8'&gt;B&lt;/div&gt;&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDR, obviously, stands for High Dynamic Range. Dividing each RGB color channel into 1024 gradients instead of *merely* 256 by itself does not automatically extend dynamic range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Already, quality IPS monitors are delivering million-to-one and higher contrast ratios. 40&quot;-60&quot; 4K televisions from Samsung, LG, Sony, NEC exhibit breathtaking detail and dynamic range and double as very passable PC monitors. While HDR is an evolutionary step forward, how valuable is it in actual use? At this point in time hi-fidelity enthusiasts would undoubtedly find greater gains by optimizing existing 32-bit technology than by obsessing over the questionable performance gains of so-called HDR. If you pay attention to product specifications, you will see that many monitors already support &quot;1.07 billion colors&quot; without explicitly claiming HDR optimization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A fact that some younger techs and readers fail to appreciate is that many of us grew up in an era in which 800x600@265 color was passable. 1024x768@65K color was preferred, and 1280x1024@16.7M color was the ideal to which we aspired. There is no practical difference between 24-bit RGB color and 32-bit RGB color. But, starting with Windows Vista, Microsoft changed the default desktop *Windows Presentation Foundation* rendering engine from DirectDraw (2D) to DirectX (3D) which natively supports 32-bit RGBA color, the &quot;A&quot; standing for alpha, or transparency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't get me wrong, I am wholly in favor of the global adoption of a 10-bit byte. 1024 makes a whole lot more sense to me than 256. Having a **40-bit dword** rather than a 32-bit dword **allows for a trillion values** rather than merely 4.3 billion. But until that happens the 30-bit HDR color schema will be more of a marketing ploy than a viable and useful technology upgrade. Your money would be better-spent by upgrading to a monitor with a practical and proven technology like nVida's G-Synch or ATI/AMD's FreeSynch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Who among us would not  drool over this non-HDR 28&quot; 4K LG monitor!!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZLPB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17280" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6003" RevisionGUID="576f7801-3247-4fe2-9416-88819b73f84f" CreationDate="2016-10-22T22:37:41.540" UserId="4713" Comment="fixed #HTML color codes" Text="**Be realistic with this emerging technology**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the most past, few people can tell the difference between the 65,536 colors of 16-bit RGB color and the 16,777,216 colors of 24-bit color, let alone the more than **one billion colors** of HDR. The human eye can distinguish only eight million colors. As an experiment, make a quick app or a web page with two adjacent squares on it. Make one square the color #4747E7 and the other box #4747E8. Then ask ten people if they are the same color. Do the same experiment with two squares that are one pixel in height. You begin to see the non-essential nature of 10-bit color channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just in case you want to see for yourself, paste this code into notepad, name it box_demo.htm, and then run it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E7'&gt;A&lt;/div&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E8'&gt;B&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E9'&gt;C&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747EA'&gt;D&lt;/div&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDR, obviously, stands for High Dynamic Range. Dividing each RGB color channel into 1024 gradients instead of *merely* 256 by itself does not automatically extend dynamic range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Already, quality IPS monitors are delivering million-to-one and higher contrast ratios. 40&quot;-60&quot; 4K televisions from Samsung, LG, Sony, NEC exhibit breathtaking detail and dynamic range and double as very passable PC monitors. While HDR is an evolutionary step forward, how valuable is it in actual use? At this point in time, hi-fidelity enthusiasts would undoubtedly find greater gains by optimizing existing 32-bit technology than by obsessing over the questionable performance gains of so-called HDR. If you pay attention to product specifications, you will see that many monitors already support &quot;1.07 billion colors&quot; without explicitly claiming HDR optimization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A fact that some younger techs and readers fail to appreciate is that many of us grew up in an era in which 800x600@265 color was passable. 1024x768@65K color was preferred, and 1280x1024@16.7M color was the ideal to which we aspired. There is no practical difference between 24-bit RGB color and 32-bit RGB color. But, starting with Windows Vista, Microsoft changed the default desktop *Windows Presentation Foundation* rendering engine from DirectDraw (2D) to DirectX (3D) which natively supports 32-bit RGBA color, the &quot;A&quot; standing for alpha, or transparency. This was a **significant and important technological implementation** that has allowed native 3D desktop effects and semitransparent window and fade effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't get me wrong, I am wholly in favor of the global adoption of a 10-bit byte. 1024 makes a whole lot more sense to me than 256. Having a **40-bit dword** rather than a 32-bit dword **allows for a trillion values** rather than merely 4.3 billion. But until that happens the 30-bit HDR color schema will be more of a marketing ploy than a viable and useful technology upgrade. Your money would be better-spent by upgrading to a monitor with a practical and proven technology like nVida's G-Synch or ATI/AMD's FreeSynch *(as noted by NZKshatriya below.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Who among us would not  drool over this non-HDR 28&quot; 4K LG monitor!!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZLPB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17281" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6003" RevisionGUID="8e8f1e73-3b12-4e87-a231-1614836fb122" CreationDate="2016-10-22T22:48:43.823" UserId="4713" Comment="amend some typos" Text="**Be realistic with this emerging technology**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the most part, few people can tell the difference between the 65,536 colors of 16-bit RGB color and the 16,777,216 colors of 24-bit color, let alone the more than **one billion colors** of HDR. The human eye can distinguish only eight million colors. As an experiment, make a quick app or a web page with two adjacent squares on it. Make one square the color #4747E7 and the other box #4747E8. Then ask ten people if they are the same color. Do the same experiment with two squares that are one pixel in height. You begin to see the non-essential nature of 10-bit color channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just in case you want to see for yourself, paste this code into notepad, name it box_demo.htm, and then run it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E7'&gt;A&lt;/div&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E8'&gt;B&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747E9'&gt;C&lt;/div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;div style='width:200;height:200;background:#4747EA'&gt;D&lt;/div&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDR, obviously, stands for **High Dynamic Range**. Dividing each RGB color channel into 1024 gradients instead of *merely* 256 by itself does not automatically extend dynamic range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Already, quality IPS monitors are delivering million-to-one and higher contrast ratios. 40&quot;-60&quot; 4K televisions from Samsung, LG, Sony, NEC exhibit breathtaking detail and dynamic range and double as very passable PC monitors. While HDR is an evolutionary step forward, how valuable is it in actual use? At this point in time, hi-fidelity enthusiasts would undoubtedly find greater gains by optimizing existing 32-bit technology than by obsessing over the questionable performance gains of so-called HDR. If you pay attention to product specifications, you will see that many monitors already support &quot;1.07 billion colors&quot; without explicitly claiming HDR optimization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A fact that some younger techs and readers fail to appreciate is that many of us grew up in an era in which 800x600@256 color was passable. 1024x768@65K color was preferred, and 1280x1024@16.7M color was the ideal to which we aspired. There is no practical difference between 24-bit RGB color and 32-bit RGB color. But, starting with Windows Vista, Microsoft changed the default desktop *Windows Presentation Foundation* rendering engine from DirectDraw (2D) to DirectX (3D) which natively supports 32-bit RGBA color, the &quot;A&quot; standing for alpha, or transparency. This was a **significant and important technological implementation** that has allowed native 3D desktop effects and semitransparent window and fade effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't get me wrong, I am wholly in favor of the global adoption of a 10-bit byte. 1024 makes a whole lot more sense to me than 256. Having a **40-bit dword** rather than a 32-bit dword **allows for a trillion values** rather than merely 4.3 billion. But until that happens the 30-bit HDR color schema will be more of a marketing ploy than a viable and useful technology upgrade. Your money would be better-spent by upgrading to a monitor with a practical and proven technology like nVida's G-Synch or ATI/AMD's FreeSynch *(as noted by NZKshatriya below.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Who among us would not  drool over this non-HDR 28&quot; 4K LG monitor!!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZLPB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6033" RevisionGUID="5ac15116-f82e-463a-8c45-6753571db68d" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:40:18.760" UserId="84" Text="I don't know why I'm still trying to retouch photos on a 1080p monitor when I can double my screen space for around $500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bar is not high, since I'm upgrading my primary from a Samsung SyncMaster 2343.  Since I'm happy with my current pixel pitch where I mount my current monitor I assume I should be looking for a 43&quot; to 50&quot; diagonal UHD.  I'll be running it for now off of my HDMI out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not a gamer, and this computer is not my home theater.  The only particular feature that matters for photo editing is color calibration and uniformity.  What are my best options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6033" RevisionGUID="5ac15116-f82e-463a-8c45-6753571db68d" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:40:18.760" UserId="84" Text="43&quot;-50&quot; 4k monitor for photo editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6033" RevisionGUID="5ac15116-f82e-463a-8c45-6753571db68d" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:40:18.760" UserId="84" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17285" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="479933b3-c0b7-4fc0-a0da-02444edc9218" CreationDate="2016-10-23T02:02:10.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="165" RevisionGUID="79d744bf-6c70-4ec7-802b-861334afa586" CreationDate="2016-10-23T10:11:26.553" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/let%27s#Contraction&gt; and &lt;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/won%27t&gt;). Used the official name of Super User - see section &quot;Proper Use of the Stack Exchange Name&quot; in &lt;http://stackoverflow.com/legal/trademark-guidance&gt; (the last section). " Text="Like the [CODE keyboard][1], I will recommend the [WASD Keyboards][2] 87-key mechanical keyboard. The base cost is $145 USD, but it can get up to $185. Let's look at your requirements one by one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This uses a standard USB connector with no special drivers. This will work with your MacBook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It weighs 2 pounds and has rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from moving around. Even with the plastic feet up at the back to tilt the keyboard, it won't move around on its own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on your choices, which I will get to at the bottom, this keyboard will run anywhere from $140-185 USD. It is a more expensive keyboard, but you do get what you pay for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Format should be US/QWERTY. Bonus points if I can rip the keycaps off and turn it onto Dvorak, if I ever get the ambition up to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is a mechanical keyboard, you can pop off the keys if you wish. However, the keys are only the same if they are on the same row. When you order, you get the opportunity to customize the key-caps. You can have both the QWERTY lettering and Dvorak lettering on the same keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are hardware switches on the keyboard that allow you to switch the layout from QWERTY to Dvorak. You just have to unplug the keyboard to do it (more about this below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ideally**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does not come with Bluetooth. You are going to have to use a USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They offer the Windows, Mac, and Linux symbols for the keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are quieter switches available for this keyboard. Stay away from the green and blue switches. If you need help picking switches for your keyboard, check out [Jeff Atwood's answer][3] on Super&amp;nbsp;User.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not needed**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard does not have a numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard could be taken with you, but it might be best to leave it at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Pros**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hardware switches (on the underside of the keyboard) allow you to further customize your keyboard. Check out [their documentation][4] to see exactly what they can do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can choose how this keyboard will look and feel by changing the key-caps (the colors and lettering for each key), the type of switch, and add in O-rings to reduce noise from the keyboard. O-rings are like tiny rubber bands that go on the bottom of each key to reduce the noise of the key-cap bottoming out (known as the &quot;clack&quot;). O-rings cost $15 and $10 extra to have them install them for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The USB cable is removable. It is a standard USB-A to USB-micro cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can completely change out the keys if you ever grow tired of the way it looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Cons**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Some [Cherry MX][5] switches are more expensive than the others. Browns add $5 to the cost, Reds add $10, and Clears and Green add $15.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Unlike the CODE Keyboard, this is not back-lit. This can make it more difficult to type on in the dark.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard and the key-caps are quite thick. From the bottom of the keyboard to the top of the first row keys is about one inch. This can take some time to get used to if you are coming from a thin or laptop keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.codekeyboards.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-87-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://superuser.com/a/366797/317198&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/v2-user-guide.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_(keyboards)#Cherry_switches_in_consumer_keyboards_.28circa_mid_2016.29&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17289" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="165" RevisionGUID="79d744bf-6c70-4ec7-802b-861334afa586" CreationDate="2016-10-23T10:11:26.553" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 57, 203 edit id of 533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6034" RevisionGUID="7c11386c-e099-4bac-8b71-59b17eda9b8a" CreationDate="2016-10-23T10:55:58.357" UserId="4713" Text="As you have surely discovered, options for a 4K monitor above 32&quot; are very limited. Magnavox offers a 40&quot; for about $899 that, because of some minor image instability issues, did not receive very positive reviews when it was released at the beginning of 2016. Newegg offers two discount brands that make a 40&quot; monitor, namely Wasabi-Mango and Yamakasi. These do not appear to have positive customer feedback.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg offers one model of 43&quot; 4K display (which also supports 10-bit color.) This, again, is the Korean **Wasabi-Mango**. Positive feedback for this model included one new owner who said &quot;anything from 720p to 2160p content ... **looks amazing**.&quot; Another measured actual power output as 61 to 66 watts. Another reviewer ditched his Roku3 and bought a Roku4 because as he said, &quot;watching **4K content is fantastic** on this monitor.&quot; This customer also hooked up a Raspberry Pi to it, and the setup worked just fine. At $769 the 43&quot; Wasabi-Mango is not extremely cheap, but it isn't much more than what you would pay for a high quality 4K LED-TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A question often asked is: **Should I just use a 4K flatscreen for my monitor?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; The mainstream 43&quot; 4K TVs at Newegg ranged in price from $379 (Visio/Hisense) to $649 (Sony/Samsung) which do function passably as PC monitors, but not optimally so, especially for graphic arts and photography where you need color calibration and image stability. My experience with using an LED-TV as a monitor is that the colors tend to be &quot;bleedy&quot; and somewhat hyper-realistic. You can have problems with ghosting and image jitter as well. As TVs, flatscreen LEDs are designed to display moving pictures and be viewed from a distance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could tentatively recommend the 43&quot; Wasabi-Mango UHD430 at this time based on owner feedback, but it would probably be in your best interests to see what pans out after the holidays. This is going to be a hot market segment, and competition will push prices to more consumer-friendly levels by spring/summer 2017.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*The formula for determining dot pitch on a 3840x2160 format is 4405/diagonal_size.  So with your most standard 4K monitor size of 28&quot; you'll have 4405/28&quot; = 157 dpi. 43&quot; monitors approach the ideal scaling ratio of 96 dpi: **4405/43 = 102 dpi**. This is good size limit. It's hard to imagine how enormous a 43&quot; screen is until you're actually sitting in front of it 18 inches away.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6035" RevisionGUID="8d4be78c-9413-4bae-9564-96833aa5e67c" CreationDate="2016-10-23T14:51:58.737" UserId="2081" Text="###You should get a [Nook][1].  &#xD;&#xA;There are several variances to the Nook e-reader - mainly it's between the Simple Touch, Simple Touch with GlowLight, and now GlowLight Plus.  Basically it whether you want a backlight or not or you want refurbed or new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's see how it stacks up with your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Everything FOSS.**  Moot point.  Every ereader comes with built in firmware and regardless if it's based on open source or not, it's going to have proprietary software to work with their hardware.  Not only that, for DRM protected content, they are going to have to license the code that allows them to use that protected content.   There's no way around this, but it really doesn't matter;  where are you going to open source download ereader firmware that's actively developed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must support EPUB and PDF.**  Nearly every E-Reader on the market, with the exception of the Amazon Kindle, supports the EPUB format and virtually all except for an early Amazon Kindle and a discontinued Sony Libre support PDF.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Lightweight.**  This is purely subjective; what you can carry for 2 hours per day is totally different from what anyone else can carry for 2 hours per day.  However, the Nook e-readers have consistently weighed less than 8oz (half pound) or less than 200g.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Long battery life.**  Again, very subjective as your use will vary in relation to everyone else's.  However, based on the [B&amp;N spec page][2], it will last up to 6 weeks on a single charge &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   [![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB connectivity.  The Nook shows up as external storage whether on a PC or a Mac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [![Nook on Mac][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;  [![Nook on Windows 10][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; [Wikipedia:  Comparison of eBook Readers][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;  [*Per B&amp;N][2]:  Based on 30 minutes of reading per day and 1 page refresh per minute with GlowLight at 30% brightness and wireless off. Battery life tests conducted using specific units; actual results may vary based on device settings, usage, and many other factors.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/nVyg2R&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/nook-glowlight-plus-barnes-noble/1122314015?ean=9781400697564&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJKHj.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/WgFUFl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeIhwl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_e-book_readers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17292" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6036" RevisionGUID="02f898b6-a00c-43fe-b71e-d36d699b2454" CreationDate="2016-10-23T18:11:34.370" UserId="4759" Text="I'd like to know if anyone knows of a decent, internet-connected alarm and access control system with modern software, possibly cloud-based or hybrid (on-site controller but it in turn talks to the cloud).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* good-looking and easy to use client software, web-based if possible&#xD;&#xA;* excellent security and frequent updates, no backdoors nor hardcoded passwords&#xD;&#xA;* works over IP and the Internet&#xD;&#xA;* remote or cloud-based management&#xD;&#xA;* motion-triggered alarm&#xD;&#xA;* access control based on secure keycards (Mifare DESFire or equivalent crypto)&#xD;&#xA;* should scale to hundreds of doors locks and motion sensors&#xD;&#xA;* should not be like designed by idiots like [some alarm systems currently in use](http://cybergibbons.com/security-2/csl-dualcom-cs2300-signalling-unit-vulnerabilities/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price isn't an issue, I'm happy to pay good money for a reliable and future-proof system." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17293" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6036" RevisionGUID="02f898b6-a00c-43fe-b71e-d36d699b2454" CreationDate="2016-10-23T18:11:34.370" UserId="4759" Text="A cloud-based security/alarm/access control solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17294" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6036" RevisionGUID="02f898b6-a00c-43fe-b71e-d36d699b2454" CreationDate="2016-10-23T18:11:34.370" UserId="4759" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6038" RevisionGUID="b28b9168-7145-45cd-880f-a0249c480377" CreationDate="2016-10-23T20:34:54.917" UserId="84" Text="Just came across another option: [TrackR bravos](https://thetrackr.co/bravo) are little sub-$30 transponders with a one-year battery life, though apparently they depend on a device running their app to come within 100 feet of the transponder to update its location." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6039" RevisionGUID="b9152362-5182-4df2-8a95-7bf7e38b3de0" CreationDate="2016-10-23T22:53:49.800" UserId="2081" Text="I've used Topaz (GE) for many years and was pretty strong.  That brand has been acquired by Interlogix and they have since discontinued it for [TruPortal.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets all of your  points with the exception of the first (good looking) and the last (not designed by idiots); those are purely subjective and impossible to quantify.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.interlogix.com/access/brand/truportal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6041" RevisionGUID="1946a116-343a-482a-ab2f-ae3bcb465d36" CreationDate="2016-10-24T05:38:43.767" UserId="4765" Text="So.. I'm building my very first gaming setup and so far it seems like it is really good and it will get the work done. I'm here seeking for suggestions from people who actually know about this. **Will this run actual games in ultra? Maybe you can suggest me better fans to improve the default ones (quiter is better)** Also, I'm using just one SSD, I see some people use two, **why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the build on [**PCPartPicker**][1] or [**Amazon**][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/nGGqbj&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.com/w/24LRMI5W3GZN6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17308" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6041" RevisionGUID="1946a116-343a-482a-ab2f-ae3bcb465d36" CreationDate="2016-10-24T05:38:43.767" UserId="4765" Text="Is this i7 computer worth?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17309" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6041" RevisionGUID="1946a116-343a-482a-ab2f-ae3bcb465d36" CreationDate="2016-10-24T05:38:43.767" UserId="4765" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6042" RevisionGUID="a7208315-124a-456b-b95e-8f3a15ca155c" CreationDate="2016-10-24T06:17:06.823" UserId="4766" Text="Well, some more information would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use case:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;First, what kind of games do you play? Let us assume AAA titles as they tend to be the most demanding in terms of hardware.  &#xD;&#xA;Second, what resolution and refresh rate do you play at? For 1080p, 60Hz you will be more than fine. Arguably, for that resolution your GTX 1080 is a bit overkill; a 1070 should suffice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For 1440p you should be able to max out all titles, possibly with a lighter form of anti-aliasing and a smaller sample count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything 4k you will not need heavy AA in the first place, so with tweaking demanding effects like some lightnings and AO you will be able to maintain 60 FPS.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggested changes:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation for your build would be to change the CLC to a good air cooler. They are bulkier indeed, but offer equal, if not better, performance at the same price point often with less noise produced. [Something like this][1] should do the job, and do it good.  &#xD;&#xA;On that note, if you intend to go past a soft CPU overclock (anything over 1.28-1.3VCore) for 24/7 usage, I would recommend a motherboard with a beefier power phase design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Further information:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;The number of SSDs doesn't really matter, unless you need the tremendous speed from a RAID 0 array.  &#xD;&#xA;On that subject, you could use the m4 socket for [the same SSD][2] and squeeze out some extra performance while having less clutter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fans:&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- Should you decide to stay with the AIO, I could not recommend the EK Vardars enough to put on the radiator - I run a total of 12 fans on my rads and I'm very happy with them!  &#xD;&#xA;- Case fans: well I use Vardars on mine, but I've heard that the Corsair SP120 fans are great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Sorry but I cannot provide more than two links due to lack of Reputation. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/9bFPxr/be-quiet-cpu-cooler-bk019&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/8WZ2FT/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mzn5e250bw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6044" RevisionGUID="9acac0e5-ea15-4695-93a4-03c103c093a2" CreationDate="2016-10-24T06:50:06.140" UserId="4766" Text="I've recently started using and recommending the [Sandisk Ultra II][1] drives for any relatively weak machines which do not do big continuous writing tasks.  &#xD;&#xA;It fits your criteria and is quite good (until you fill up the SLC cache - 10GB for the 240GB model).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/search/?cc=us&amp;q=sandisk+ultra+ii" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17313" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="6c48f25f-e390-4db5-bfcb-c0291ccc0e88" CreationDate="2016-10-24T07:50:13.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17319" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="61574108-a938-4ada-8281-9c9058211382" CreationDate="2016-10-24T13:07:48.537" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6047" RevisionGUID="6af8a6f1-a948-4a19-854b-fa29206436bf" CreationDate="2016-10-24T13:17:12.703" UserId="2081" Text="Go with the [Samsung EVO 850][1] or the [Crucial MX300 275GB][2].  I have used them in everything from Dell Latitudes, HP Desktops (I forget the model) to MacBook Pros and even my own personal iMac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I wouldn't go with a SSD from a company that's not known to make quality memory modules (because that's technically what an SSD is). I'm not saying any of the off brands are &quot;bad,&quot; it's just there is a &quot;piece of mind&quot; factor when it comes to my data and I would prefer to know a reputable brand well known for what they do.  It's as the old saying goes &quot;You never get fired for buying IBM.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are upgrading your laptop and want more speed, I would also recommend [upgrading your RAM to 8GB][3]; [that the max for your machine.][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/zkTBQh&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://goo.gl/Rol1I1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://goo.gl/WPeDnS&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-ProBook-4500-Notebook-PC-series/5060880/model/5060882/document/c02793462&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qbx9.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17323" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6041" RevisionGUID="86ac2d31-24bb-47c8-a1f5-bb342bad81cc" CreationDate="2016-10-24T13:38:56.010" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="8179706e-4cea-489b-8c47-e79ede1376fe" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:21:04.877" UserId="4523" Text="I am looking for an external enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  2.5&quot; drive support is nominal, but 3.5&quot; will work as adapters are readily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA III to USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  2 to 3 bay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  Price under $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID options are not my main focus at present.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked around at newegg and amazon, but cannot find anything that has many objective reviews." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="8179706e-4cea-489b-8c47-e79ede1376fe" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:21:04.877" UserId="4523" Text="Looking for recommendations for external hard drive enclosures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="8179706e-4cea-489b-8c47-e79ede1376fe" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:21:04.877" UserId="4523" Text="&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17329" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="5d6e6ebf-1478-44b7-a1d6-f25c0ed772a0" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:54:31.460" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17330" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="1996f88a-6ec3-4572-b114-bf1a4e5a543c" CreationDate="2016-10-24T16:37:58.733" UserId="4523" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an external enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  2.5&quot; drive support is nominal, but 3.5&quot; will work as adapters are readily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA III to USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  2 to 3 bay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  Price under $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  Has on-board RAID hardware with options for RAID0, JBOD, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID options are not my main focus at present but some options will help in the near future.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked around at newegg and amazon, but cannot find anything that has many objective reviews." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17333" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="2a79b945-bffc-4fa0-a4ba-7cdad7b7431f" CreationDate="2016-10-24T17:45:35.460" UserId="4523" Comment="Edited to explain to certain people the difference" Text="Looking for recommendations for external RAID enclosures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6054" RevisionGUID="24e07800-f12c-4e46-bca3-591682278cd5" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:11:50.223" UserId="3980" Text="Like Digital Boffin said, you're not going to be able to get something worthwhile under $10. I also use a Blue Snowball for recordings and it works very well. If you poke around on ebay, you may be able to find a used Blue Snowball. I was able to find one [here][1] on ebay for $25. If you want to get something that's new, you're going to have pay at least $50 for something decent like the [Snowball Ice][2]. Or about $70 for the [&quot;real&quot; Snowball][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A mic under $10 probably isn't worth it (esp. for the conditions you described)&#xD;&#xA; - You're probably going to  need to spend at least $50 or more for something decent like the Snowball or Snowball  Ice.&#xD;&#xA; - If $50 is too far out of your price range, you could try poking around on ebay for a used Snowball or something similar (I was able to find one for about $25 w/o shipping, which shouldn't be to expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-USB-Mic-Only-/192000981375?hash=item2cb426797f:g:y6UAAOSwh2xX~Vjx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477343197&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=snowball%20ice&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Textured-White/dp/B000EOPQ7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477343420&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=snowball" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17348" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6055" RevisionGUID="ebf0d39d-3319-4a9a-86cc-f1e9f38580ca" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:18:42.343" UserId="3980" Text="In case your radio won't take a USB input... Here are a couple 3.5mm options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Poking around Amazon I found the &quot;[Floureon BM-800 Condenser Sound Studio Recording Broadcasting Microphone][1]&quot; for **$30** it's the best seller so it's probably not too bad.&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;[Tonor 3.5mm Studio Professional Microphone Mic with Stand For Audio Sound Recording Skype Desktop PC Laptop Notebook][2]&quot; for **$10.99**, also on amazon.com.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But like I mentioned earlier, you generally get what you pay for... ***Higher price generally = Higher quality, more reliability.*** Caveat emptor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Floureon-Condenser-Recording-Broadcasting-Microphone/dp/B00Q4RGQHY/ref=pd_sbs_267_4?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00Q4RGQHY&amp;pd_rd_r=QMX8E0624207XX2H88EM&amp;pd_rd_w=aqhPt&amp;pd_rd_wg=hLHVz&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QMX8E0624207XX2H88EM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-Professional-Microphone-Recording-Notebook/dp/B01297CD6U/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477343539&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=3.5mm%20mic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17349" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6054" RevisionGUID="5b539cb4-20e5-426b-b2a0-2d4e5067ca0e" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:20:55.860" UserId="3980" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="Like Digital Boffin said, you're not going to be able to get something worthwhile under $10. I also use a Blue Snowball for recordings and it works very well. If you poke around on ebay, you may be able to find a used Blue Snowball. I was able to find one [here][1] on ebay for $25. If you want to get something that's new, you're going to have pay at least $50 for something decent like the [Snowball Ice][2]. Or about $70 for the [&quot;real&quot; Snowball][3]. n.b. the snowball is a *USB mic.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A mic under $10 probably isn't worth it (esp. for the conditions you described)&#xD;&#xA; - You're probably going to  need to spend at least $50 or more for something decent like the Snowball or Snowball  Ice.&#xD;&#xA; - If $50 is too far out of your price range, you could try poking around on ebay for a used Snowball or something similar (I was able to find one for about $25 w/o shipping, which shouldn't be to expensive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-USB-Mic-Only-/192000981375?hash=item2cb426797f:g:y6UAAOSwh2xX~Vjx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477343197&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=snowball%20ice&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Textured-White/dp/B000EOPQ7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477343420&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=snowball" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5951" RevisionGUID="cf884a42-9e48-4a8f-a52e-2bfc335edfab" CreationDate="2016-10-24T22:01:04.470" UserId="4618" Comment="Updated with results of testing the recommended product. Fixed model number that was tested." Text="#Powerline Adapter with PoE Injector ($25-$65)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After several hours of research, I'm feeling pretty confident that a wireless bridge with a built-in 802.3af PoE injector doesn't exist except for [industrial applications](http://www.acksys.fr/en/product/13-wlg-switch/). However, you can get a Powerline ethernet bridge with a built-in POE injector, though they can be a bit harder to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note: no, I am not getting EoP confused with PoE. There really are devices that can go from EoP to PoE in a single unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lowest-clutter solution to connect the phone to the network and provide PoE is a **Powerline Ethernet Bridge with PoE Injector**, such as the [Comtrend Powergrid 9141s-poe Powerline Network Adapter](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comtrend-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-1-X-Network-rj-45-200-Mbps-Powerline/232086634742) or the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294), available on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![COP-Systems COPS-928-POE connects to a Powerline network and outputs PoE in one unit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Low clutter:** the only item close to the phone is Powerline adapter. The phone connects directly to the Powerline adapter, which outputs 802.3af, so no need for a separate PoE injector. The only cable is the Ethernet cable going from the phone to the Powerline adapter. There's not even a power cord, since the device is a wall wart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is slightly more clutter than a wireless bridge, because you also need a Powerline adapter near the router that is compatible with the Homeplug AV standard, such as the [TP-Link AV200](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4). But at least the extra clutter is with all your other network equipment clutter, instead of cluttering your desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram showing ISP &gt; Cable &gt; Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Powerline adapter &gt; Outlet &gt; Electrical Wiring &gt; Outlet &gt; Powerline adapter with PoE &gt; Ethernet Cable &gt; Phone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Easy setup:** Since this solution is for a home user who will probably need to set it up himself, you want the simplest possible setup. Powerline is plug-and-play: just plug in both adapters and push the button on each one to connect them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Better for phones anyway:** Powerline has less packet loss than WiFi, which means better call quality [citation needed].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE** (10/24/2016) I tested the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294) paired with [TP-LINK AV200 Nano](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUIY4). They established a link within seconds after plugging them in. COPS-928-POE powered up my phone right away, and my phone connected to the server a few seconds after the two Powerline adapters established a connection with each other. I hit the security button on both adapters to establish a secure link, and everything reconnected again within 15 seconds. There was no noticeable difference in call quality, compared to my Ethernet connection. Since they are now paired and ready to go, I will be shipping the pair to the home user, confident they will be able to get these set up fairly easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Other Options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The options below all require a separate PoE injector, but with varying levels of clutter and cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Move the workstation closer to the router ($0).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![move the workstation][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Move the router closer to the workstation ($0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Use existing phone lines:** If the user has DSL internet service (e.g. CenturyLink) that runs over the phone lines, and they have a phone jack close to their workstation, a simple solution is to move the DSL modem to the phone jack next to the workstation, and plug the desk phone into the Ethernet jack of the DSL modem/router.[![move the router to a phone jack by the phone][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Use existing coaxial cable lines:** Similarly, if the user as cable internet service (e.g. Comcast/Xfinity/Time Warner), and they have a cable-TV-type (coax) jack close to their workstation, they can move the cable modem and router to that jack, and plug the phone directly into an Ethernet port on the router.[![move the modem to a cable jack by the phone][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Share your laptop's existing Wi-Fi connection ($0)&#xD;&#xA;If the user has a good Wi-Fi network, they can plug the phone into the Ethernet port on their laptop, then go to &quot;View Network Connections&quot; (type this in the Start menu search box) &gt; right-click Wi-Fi &gt; Properties &gt; &quot;Sharing&quot; tab &gt; check &quot;Allow other network users to connect through this computer's Internet Connection.&quot; This allows the laptop to act as a wireless bridge for the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The phone only works while the computer is turned on&#xD;&#xA; 2. Sometimes Windows updates will mess up the connection and you have to go back in and check the box on the &quot;Sharing&quot; tab again.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Wi-Fi tends to have more packet loss, which means the call quality will be lower.&#xD;&#xA;[![Use your laptop as a wireless bridge][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Coax Bridge ([$15](https://smile.amazon.com/DIRECTV-Broadband-Ethernet-Adapter-Generation/dp/B00ZDUQVFU)-[$20](https://smile.amazon.com/DIRECTV-Broadband-Ethernet-DECABB1MR0-Generation/dp/B004HAOWLW))&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have cable internet, but you do happen to have unused coax cables in your home's walls, you can use two coax-to-Ethernet converters to run the signal over the coax cables in your walls. This is basically the same as a [MoCA adapter](https://smile.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG), but cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Works best if the coax cables aren't being used for anything else. Works with DirecTV, but unclear if this works with Dish or other services that use the same coax cables.&#xD;&#xA; 2. More clutter.&#xD;&#xA;[![Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Coax adapter &gt; Coax cable &gt; Coax adapter &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Wireless Bridge ([$20](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-TL-WA855RE/dp/B0195Y0A42)-[$30](https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW))&#xD;&#xA;Get a Wi-Fi signal repeater with an Ethernet jack. You will plug the phone into the Wi-Fi repeater, which will act as a wireless bridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. More packet loss/poorer call quality than a wired connection.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Easy for a home user to set up if his router supports WPS, but its likely many users will need tech support to configure the extender.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Router &gt; Wi-Fi signal &gt; Range extender &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Drop new Ethernet connection (~$100)&#xD;&#xA;Hire a contractor to run an Ethernet cable from your router to your workstation. This will give you the best possible connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Router &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Phone][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKZ4r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/10jyx.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/d4pH7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrcRe.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/URKLx.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gi0C.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/tOLLr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/g4cbw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ibSHX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17353" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="0db44427-5b47-4a1e-9649-96b901890b67" CreationDate="2016-10-25T03:04:11.677" UserId="4523" Comment="added 120 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an external enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  2.5&quot; drive support is nominal, but 3.5&quot; will work as adapters are readily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA III to USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  2 to 3 bay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  Price under $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  Has on-board RAID hardware with options for RAID0, JBOD, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6.  If possible, fans that can be replaced without requiring disassembly of the entire unit *if actively cooled*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID options are not my main focus at present but some options will help in the near future.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked around at newegg and amazon, but cannot find anything that has many objective reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17354" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5991" RevisionGUID="811e438c-a1d8-4eac-ae64-3e7d007d887f" CreationDate="2016-10-25T03:45:46.147" UserId="4713" Comment="additional info!" Text="The very best mechanical keyboard out there, bar none, at any price is the Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB with exclusive Corsair/Cherry MX Speed switches. The keys have an extremely nimble and responsive 45-gram actuation force and merely 1.2mm of key travel for both speed typing and gaming. The lighting is stellar with the only complaint from users is that there are too many lighting options to choose from. The high-impact aircraft brushed aluminum frame and knurled volume knob put this outstanding piece of engineering excellence &quot;over the top.&quot; You can pay more than $164.95 for a more expensive keyboard, but you would only be throwing away good money. [See what I mean][1]...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is another exciting review of the **[K70 RapidFire RGB][2]**. Enjoy!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6y98b8JRsU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqu0ApQGyxg&amp;feature=em-subs_digest-vrecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6056" RevisionGUID="61b5efd1-80ae-4b58-ab62-f1c14262526a" CreationDate="2016-10-25T06:12:59.827" UserId="4766" Text="I strongly recommend against cheap PSU units or actually purchasing without researching a bit first.  &#xD;&#xA;A lot of the units on the market have really bad voltage regulation, especially on the 3.3V and 12V rails along with bad ripple. Furthermore, a cheaper PSU is more likely to trip on an input load that supposedly matches the output (for example 600W wall draw instead of 600W delivered on the rails).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it's generally true that with mild overclocking it will do 'fine', after all, the power supply must supply the motherboard, GPU and peripheral devices with clean power. I would not trust any components whose power load may spike on a cheap supply.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the recommendations above I support the EVGA and RoseWill supplies, and I'd also add most SuperFlower and SeaSonic supplies you can get your hands on. FSP (previously known as Fortron) also have very decent units that do not come off as expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding power draw, @Brett Bergan's suggestion for 160W for the RAM is outlandish. DDR4 RAM (without a ridiculous overvolt) will rarely consume over 3-4W per module.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for power supply, I would actually recommend a **[SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze][1]** which is surprisingly cheap while still retaining full modularity and providing clean output.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;520W will be more than enough for your system until you decide to push things to the limits, and those PSUs can be trusted.  &#xD;&#xA;I've pulled over 1100W from the wall on my 850W unit (SS-850AM, Bronze efficiency) which is a bit over it's rated output and still didn't even trigger it's OCP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/TgW9TW/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6057" RevisionGUID="4a9ce94a-928c-4903-b4d0-fe89782a3fb1" CreationDate="2016-10-25T07:08:28.993" UserId="4766" Text="I consider Brett's answer incomplete and rather subjective, so I'll toss in my two cents.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are great differences between the different switch types - *and some of them can be rather annoying to the wrong person!* It all boils down to preference.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will explain in short:  &#xD;&#xA; **1. Linear and Tactile**  &#xD;&#xA; - Linear switches travel smoothly right down to the bottom. There is no feedback to your finger when the actuation happens so unless you are confident about the key travel/bottom-out (or look at your screen) you cannot be certain that the key has been actuated.  &#xD;&#xA; -  When you push down a tactile switch, you can feel the actuation for when it happens the switch will give in a bit. In other words, the peak actuation force required for activation is a bit higher and upon activation it drops.  &#xD;&#xA;Out of these, I prefer linear for typing and tactile when gaming.  &#xD;&#xA; **2. Clicky and Silent**  (applies only to tactile switches)  &#xD;&#xA;The names are pretty self-explanatory. I recommend watching a couple of videos in order to gather an idea about how clicky switches sound. Many people are very annoyed with the sound while others love it. Be very careful when you pick this for your girlfriend as it can turn out to be an annoyance either for you or for her...or both of you might actually enjoy it! ;)  &#xD;&#xA;I used to like clicky switches back in the day but I've grown to admire the soft bottom-out sound only.   &#xD;&#xA; **3. Actuation force**  &#xD;&#xA;Different switches have different springs in them - some are lighter, while some are heavier. This is again a very important factor because some people tend to rest their fingers on the keyboard and are likely to accidentally actuate them.  &#xD;&#xA;I like heavier keys (60-70 grams peak actuation force) but most people tend to like 45g springs.  &#xD;&#xA; **4. Switch travel**  &#xD;&#xA;- Classic Cherry switches have a 2mm travel before actuation, out of a total of 4mm travel.  &#xD;&#xA;- The new Cherry switches, Silver use the lighter (45g) springs and are a linear switch with a shorter travel time (1.2mm actuation, 3.4mm total travel distance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Kailh switches are basically a Cherry MX rebrand after their trademark expired. There are also other brands which copy Cherry but let us not digress that far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that you know all this, here is a listing of the most common Cherry MX switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(**switch colour** - tactility, noise, stiffness, travel)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Red** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Silver** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Short (1.2/3.4mm)&#xD;&#xA;- **Brown** - Tactile, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Blue** - Tactile, Clicky, Soft (50g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Black** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (60g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Green** - Tactile, Clicky (loud), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Clear** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (65g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (dark)** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (light)** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **White** - Tactile, Clicky (soft), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for a keyboard recommendation, there are also different formats - depending on the use case, you might not need a numpad. I will recommend in each:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full size:  &#xD;&#xA;**Ducky Shine 5**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tenkeyless:  &#xD;&#xA;**Ducky One RGB TKL** or **MK Disco TKL**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17363" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6057" RevisionGUID="7bd5db0e-f6d0-4f31-a575-97d1c37f1e7b" CreationDate="2016-10-25T13:37:27.017" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17364" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6057" RevisionGUID="868634c8-7956-4071-8a48-a16194d2f661" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:00:49.697" UserId="4766" Comment="Appeasing the mods ;)" Text="I consider Brett's answer incomplete and rather subjective, so I'll toss in my two cents.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are great differences between the different switch types - *and some of them can be rather annoying to the wrong person!* It all boils down to preference.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will explain in short:  &#xD;&#xA; **1. Linear and Tactile**  &#xD;&#xA; - Linear switches travel smoothly right down to the bottom. There is no feedback to your finger when the actuation happens so unless you are confident about the key travel/bottom-out (or look at your screen) you cannot be certain that the key has been actuated.  &#xD;&#xA; -  When you push down a tactile switch, you can feel the actuation for when it happens the switch will give in a bit. In other words, the peak actuation force required for activation is a bit higher and upon activation it drops.  &#xD;&#xA;Out of these, I prefer linear for typing and tactile when gaming.  &#xD;&#xA; **2. Clicky and Silent**  (applies only to tactile switches)  &#xD;&#xA;The names are pretty self-explanatory. I recommend watching a couple of videos in order to gather an idea about how clicky switches sound. Many people are very annoyed with the sound while others love it. Be very careful when you pick this for your girlfriend as it can turn out to be an annoyance either for you or for her...or both of you might actually enjoy it! ;)  &#xD;&#xA;I used to like clicky switches back in the day but I've grown to admire the soft bottom-out sound only.   &#xD;&#xA; **3. Actuation force**  &#xD;&#xA;Different switches have different springs in them - some are lighter, while some are heavier. This is again a very important factor because some people tend to rest their fingers on the keyboard and are likely to accidentally actuate them.  &#xD;&#xA;I like heavier keys (60-70 grams peak actuation force) but most people tend to like 45g springs.  &#xD;&#xA; **4. Switch travel**  &#xD;&#xA;- Classic Cherry switches have a 2mm travel before actuation, out of a total of 4mm travel.  &#xD;&#xA;- The new Cherry switches, Silver use the lighter (45g) springs and are a linear switch with a shorter travel time (1.2mm actuation, 3.4mm total travel distance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Kailh switches are basically a Cherry MX rebrand after their trademark expired. There are also other brands which copy Cherry but let us not digress that far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that you know all this, here is a listing of the most common Cherry MX switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(**switch colour** - tactility, noise, stiffness, travel)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Red** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Silver** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Short (1.2/3.4mm)&#xD;&#xA;- **Brown** - Tactile, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Blue** - Tactile, Clicky, Soft (50g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Black** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (60g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Green** - Tactile, Clicky (loud), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Clear** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (65g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (dark)** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (light)** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **White** - Tactile, Clicky (soft), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for a keyboard recommendation, there are also different formats - depending on the use case, you might not need a numpad. I will recommend in each:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full size:  &#xD;&#xA;**Ducky Shine 5**, because  &#xD;&#xA;Sturdy and overall flawless build quality, which is very characteristic for the Ducky brand. Those keyboards are held in high regard even in the keyboard enthusiast circles;  &#xD;&#xA;You can pick between Cherry MX Brown, Red, or Black switches;  &#xD;&#xA;Plug-and-Play;  &#xD;&#xA;14 pre-programmed lightning modes, along with 2 fully customizable (per-key brightness, colour, and pulsation);  &#xD;&#xA;ABS Double-shot keycaps. ABS is a high quality plastic (usually last for well over 15 years before losing its characteristics) and only very rarely do you find stock PBT caps, with PBT being considered by many the ultimate plastic allow to last nearly forever on a keyboard;  &#xD;&#xA;All the macro and settings profiles are stored on the built-in memory, meaning you can move it wherever and still keep your settings; &#xD;&#xA;USB cable is detachable and replaceable. You can buy another, fancier one, or make your own if you so desire!  &#xD;&#xA;What the keyboard lacks for some people are dedicated multimedia/additional buttons, however all that either built-in (Fn+key combo) or is fully customizable anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tenkeyless:  &#xD;&#xA;**Ducky One RGB TKL**, because   &#xD;&#xA;It sports a smaller size and is a more compact fit on your desk, leaving more space for your mouse and providing a more comfortable stance with less spread hands;  &#xD;&#xA;Again a very solid build quality;  &#xD;&#xA;Slim bezels and compact frame which further enhance the space-saving benefit of TKL keyboards;  &#xD;&#xA;Detachable and replaceable cable allows for better portability;  &#xD;&#xA;Plug-and-play;  &#xD;&#xA;Again ABS doubleshot keycaps with sandblasted finishing;  &#xD;&#xA;Cherry MX Blue, Red or Brown switches;  &#xD;&#xA;10 lighting presets with three custom lighting zones;  &#xD;&#xA;Evenly lit legends on the keycaps.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17368" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6057" RevisionGUID="edd27154-c041-44cc-a9d4-193e9a958f8e" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:05:31.443" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6060" RevisionGUID="4f4a671c-9fb1-4dc9-9eee-4f05bb40c3ce" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:10:24.457" UserId="4778" Text="I'm also looking around for a solution as we're doing the same as you. Today I got to learn that Samsung offers professional customization for many of their products, including locking down to one dedicated app, (re)branding and what else. It is called [Samsung Know Customization][1]. I don't have any prices yet, but I think the is kind of a over-the-top solution. At least it is for us, but maybe it is of interest for you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw: Did you find some other tablets that match your requirements? That would eventually help me and maybe other people that are looking for a solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsungknox.com/en/solutions/knox-customization#get-started" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6057" RevisionGUID="efbee749-356d-4fb8-a1f3-e4a750acfe96" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:20:16.337" UserId="4766" Comment="added 143 characters in body" Text="I consider Brett's answer incomplete and rather subjective, so I'll toss in my two cents.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, there are great differences between the different switch types - *and some of them can be rather annoying to the wrong person!* It all boils down to preference.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will explain in short:  &#xD;&#xA; **1. Linear and Tactile**  &#xD;&#xA; - Linear switches travel smoothly right down to the bottom. There is no feedback to your finger when the actuation happens so unless you are confident about the key travel/bottom-out (or look at your screen) you cannot be certain that the key has been actuated.  &#xD;&#xA; -  When you push down a tactile switch, you can feel the actuation for when it happens the switch will give in a bit. In other words, the peak actuation force required for activation is a bit higher and upon activation it drops.  &#xD;&#xA;Out of these, I prefer linear for typing and tactile when gaming.  &#xD;&#xA; **2. Clicky and Silent**  (applies only to tactile switches)  &#xD;&#xA;The names are pretty self-explanatory. I recommend watching a couple of videos in order to gather an idea about how clicky switches sound. Many people are very annoyed with the sound while others love it. Be very careful when you pick this for your girlfriend as it can turn out to be an annoyance either for you or for her...or both of you might actually enjoy it! ;)  &#xD;&#xA;I used to like clicky switches back in the day but I've grown to admire the soft bottom-out sound only.   &#xD;&#xA; **3. Actuation force**  &#xD;&#xA;Different switches have different springs in them - some are lighter, while some are heavier. This is again a very important factor because some people tend to rest their fingers on the keyboard and are likely to accidentally actuate them.  &#xD;&#xA;I like heavier keys (60-70 grams peak actuation force) but most people tend to like 45g springs.  &#xD;&#xA; **4. Switch travel**  &#xD;&#xA;- Classic Cherry switches have a 2mm travel before actuation, out of a total of 4mm travel.  &#xD;&#xA;- The new Cherry switches, Silver use the lighter (45g) springs and are a linear switch with a shorter travel time (1.2mm actuation, 3.4mm total travel distance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Kailh switches are basically a Cherry MX rebrand after their trademark expired. There are also other brands which copy Cherry but let us not digress that far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that you know all this, here is a listing of the most common Cherry MX switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(**switch colour** - tactility, noise, stiffness, travel)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Red** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Silver** - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Short (1.2/3.4mm)&#xD;&#xA;- **Brown** - Tactile, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Blue** - Tactile, Clicky, Soft (50g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Black** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (60g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Green** - Tactile, Clicky (loud), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Clear** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (65g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (dark)** - Linear, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **Grey (light)** - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)  &#xD;&#xA;- **White** - Tactile, Clicky (soft), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for a keyboard recommendation, there are also different formats - depending on the use case, you might not need a numpad. I will recommend in each:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full size:  &#xD;&#xA;**[Ducky Shine 5 RGB][1]**, because  &#xD;&#xA;Sturdy and overall flawless build quality, which is very characteristic for the Ducky brand. Those keyboards are held in high regard even in the keyboard enthusiast circles;  &#xD;&#xA;You can pick between Cherry MX Brown, Red, or Black switches;  &#xD;&#xA;Plug-and-Play;  &#xD;&#xA;14 pre-programmed lightning modes, along with 2 fully customizable (per-key brightness, colour, and pulsation);  &#xD;&#xA;ABS Double-shot keycaps. ABS is a high quality plastic (usually last for well over 15 years before losing its characteristics) and only very rarely do you find stock PBT caps, with PBT being considered by many the ultimate plastic allow to last nearly forever on a keyboard;  &#xD;&#xA;All the macro and settings profiles are stored on the built-in memory, meaning you can move it wherever and still keep your settings; &#xD;&#xA;USB cable is detachable and replaceable. You can buy another, fancier one, or make your own if you so desire!  &#xD;&#xA;What the keyboard lacks for some people are dedicated multimedia/additional buttons, however all that either built-in (Fn+key combo) or is fully customizable anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tenkeyless:  &#xD;&#xA;**[Ducky One RGB TKL][2]**, because   &#xD;&#xA;It sports a smaller size and is a more compact fit on your desk, leaving more space for your mouse and providing a more comfortable stance with less spread hands;  &#xD;&#xA;Again a very solid build quality;  &#xD;&#xA;Slim bezels and compact frame which further enhance the space-saving benefit of TKL keyboards;  &#xD;&#xA;Detachable and replaceable cable allows for better portability;  &#xD;&#xA;Plug-and-play;  &#xD;&#xA;Again ABS doubleshot keycaps with sandblasted finishing;  &#xD;&#xA;Cherry MX Blue, Red or Brown switches;  &#xD;&#xA;10 lighting presets with three custom lighting zones;  &#xD;&#xA;Evenly lit legends on the keycaps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/ducky-shine-5/&#xA;  [2]: http://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/One-TKL-RGB-version/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6060" RevisionGUID="96a28c19-b3f9-43d6-92c7-964c36d54226" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:22:48.820" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 310 characters in body" Text="Samsung offers professional customization for many of their products, including locking down to one dedicated app, (re)branding and whatever else. It is called [Samsung Knox Customization][1]. This solution is over-the-top for my own purpose, but it may be useful for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsungknox.com/en/solutions/knox-customization#get-started" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17386" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="7ca279bc-99f1-42be-81d9-433af833771f" CreationDate="2016-10-25T19:51:17.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17388" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="4aef01b7-93ec-4f4b-b41a-e9da1a79051e" CreationDate="2016-10-25T20:51:17.263" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="fe1a66d4-3a93-47be-b8b4-61d6819e06f5" CreationDate="2016-10-25T22:34:48.443" UserId="821" Text="My laptop recently broke. Now I need to buy a new one before Christmas ends or more preferably before the end of next week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements and **hopes**:  &#xD;&#xA;RAM:   &#xD;&#xA;- 8GB OF RAM **upgradable to 16**  &#xD;&#xA;HARD DRIVE AND OPTICAL DISK:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1TB HDD 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;- Any read+write ODD  &#xD;&#xA;CPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- AN I7 **new gen; 5th-7th**  &#xD;&#xA;- A 2.1 - 3.0 GHZ CLOCK **4 CORES**   &#xD;&#xA;SCREEN &amp; GPU/APU/IPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1080P  &#xD;&#xA;- Either **AMD (4GB)** or an IPU  &#xD;&#xA;- 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;COMPANY + OTHER&#xD;&#xA;- DELL  &#xD;&#xA;- INSPIRON  &#xD;&#xA;- 650 - 750 US DOLLARS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3FA3Z96648  &#xD;&#xA;CPU	: I7 (2.50GHZ, 6THGEN, DUAL)  &#xD;&#xA;SCRN  :  TOUCH 1080P FHD 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;RAM    :	8GB DDR3L (UP TO 16) 1600  &#xD;&#xA;HDD	   : 1TB 5400RPM SATA  &#xD;&#xA;ODD	   : DVD±R/RW  &#xD;&#xA;GPU	   : 4GB AMD RADEON R5M335   &#xD;&#xA;MDL : DELL INSPIRON 15 5559&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only problem is that this is **dual** core. My last laptop was 4 core which I thought was low but then adjusted to, got hot a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;01. Compile + edit with Maven. I have a near 300MB project so the PC got heated when I compiled.&#xD;&#xA;02. Play and run a minecraft server (same time). It has about 3 players on most of the time; but can go up to six (obviously more if I **wanted**)  &#xD;&#xA;03. Play TF2.  &#xD;&#xA;04. Video edit in Sony Vegas  &#xD;&#xA;05. Run Adobe Photoshop, both CS2 and the connected CC  &#xD;&#xA;06. Do a lot of homework (shouldn't be hard)  &#xD;&#xA;07. Run discord and Skype almost all the time  &#xD;&#xA;08. Occasionally Run Virtual Machines (XP,98,3.1,DOS 7.1)  &#xD;&#xA;09. Run dual boot (Ubuntu,Steam OS etc as well as Hackintosh (barely))  &#xD;&#xA;10. Download huge files (4-10GB) via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will all of these tasks run smoothly in a dual core build? If not, are there any better dell inspiron laptops that will suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17390" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="fe1a66d4-3a93-47be-b8b4-61d6819e06f5" CreationDate="2016-10-25T22:34:48.443" UserId="821" Text="Is a dual core laptop worth it, or are there better alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17391" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="fe1a66d4-3a93-47be-b8b4-61d6819e06f5" CreationDate="2016-10-25T22:34:48.443" UserId="821" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="ed146dec-2846-41b2-a023-b78025fa20df" CreationDate="2016-10-26T03:10:34.207" UserId="821" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="My laptop recently broke. Now I need to buy a new one before Christmas ends or more preferably before the end of next week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements and **hopes**:  &#xD;&#xA;RAM:   &#xD;&#xA;- 8GB OF RAM **upgradable to 16**  &#xD;&#xA;HARD DRIVE AND OPTICAL DISK:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1TB HDD 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;- Any read+write ODD  &#xD;&#xA;CPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- AN I7 **new gen; 5th-7th**  &#xD;&#xA;- A 2.1 - 3.0 GHZ CLOCK **4 CORES**   &#xD;&#xA;SCREEN &amp; GPU/APU/IPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1080P  &#xD;&#xA;- Either **AMD (4GB)** or an IPU  &#xD;&#xA;- 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;COMPANY + OTHER&#xD;&#xA;- DELL  &#xD;&#xA;- INSPIRON  &#xD;&#xA;- 500 - 750 / **650 - 750** US DOLLARS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3FA3Z96648  &#xD;&#xA;CPU	: I7 (2.50GHZ, 6THGEN, DUAL)  &#xD;&#xA;SCRN  :  TOUCH 1080P FHD 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;RAM    :	8GB DDR3L (UP TO 16) 1600  &#xD;&#xA;HDD	   : 1TB 5400RPM SATA  &#xD;&#xA;ODD	   : DVD±R/RW  &#xD;&#xA;GPU	   : 4GB AMD RADEON R5M335   &#xD;&#xA;MDL : DELL INSPIRON 15 5559&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only problem is that this is **dual** core. My last laptop was 4 core which I thought was low but then adjusted to, got hot a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;01. Compile + edit with Maven. I have a near 300MB project so the PC got heated when I compiled.&#xD;&#xA;02. Play and run a minecraft server (same time). It has about 3 players on most of the time; but can go up to six (obviously more if I **wanted**)  &#xD;&#xA;03. Play TF2.  &#xD;&#xA;04. Video edit in Sony Vegas  &#xD;&#xA;05. Run Adobe Photoshop, both CS2 and the connected CC  &#xD;&#xA;06. Do a lot of homework (shouldn't be hard)  &#xD;&#xA;07. Run discord and Skype almost all the time  &#xD;&#xA;08. Occasionally Run Virtual Machines (XP,98,3.1,DOS 7.1)  &#xD;&#xA;09. Run dual boot (Ubuntu,Steam OS etc as well as Hackintosh (barely))  &#xD;&#xA;10. Download huge files (4-10GB) via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will all of these tasks run smoothly in a dual core build? If not, are there any better dell inspiron laptops that will suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="9a6625b7-edd7-4763-8ed6-9318c5a5fb7f" CreationDate="2016-10-26T03:56:05.490" UserId="2086" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="I am thinking of buying powerline wifi extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want those that have only 1 transmiter, will be located near my main modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a few receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to avoid &quot;pairs&quot;. The wifi would get signal from one and several&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last requirement is wifi support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At least on the receivers one. All receivers must be able to communicate via wifi. That way I effectively have mini routers in each room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard to say price range. I would say mid range. Common. Normal. I don't need super high end. Cost effective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several I want to know them all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="fce8f943-f53d-4d92-9d81-467a1a2dff31" CreationDate="2016-10-26T04:01:25.697" UserId="2086" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="I am thinking of buying powerline wifi extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want those that have only 1 transmiter, will be located near my main modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a few receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to avoid &quot;pairs&quot;. The wifi would get signal from one and several&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last requirement is wifi support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At least on the receivers one. All receivers must be able to communicate via wifi. That way I effectively have mini routers in each room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard to say price range. I would say mid range. Common. Normal. I don't need super high end. Cost effective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several I want to know them all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me clarify what I want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Say I want to power 10 rooms that are all far away from my main router. Does that mean I would need 20 devices? I like the one where I have 11 devices. One transmiter near my main router, and 10 receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This powerline adaptor is like wifi router right? Except that their signals travel through powerline instead of through air.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I weren't using powerline adaptor, if I use a bunch of wifi repeater, I would only need 10 devices. Can I do this with only 10 or 11 power line adapters?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="621c3f40-0580-4bdf-bf55-1255b465087f" CreationDate="2016-10-26T04:15:21.297" UserId="821" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="My laptop recently broke. Now I need to buy a new one before Christmas ends or more preferably before the end of next week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements and **hopes**:  &#xD;&#xA;RAM:   &#xD;&#xA;- 8GB OF RAM **upgradable to 16**  &#xD;&#xA;HARD DRIVE AND OPTICAL DISK:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1TB HDD 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;- Any read+write ODD  &#xD;&#xA;CPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- AN I7 **new gen; 5th-7th**  &#xD;&#xA;- A 2.1 - 3.0 GHZ CLOCK **4 CORES**   &#xD;&#xA;SCREEN &amp; GPU/APU/IPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1080P  &#xD;&#xA;- Either **AMD (4GB)** or an IPU  &#xD;&#xA;- 15.6&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING (DOWN) &lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;COMPANY + OTHER&#xD;&#xA;- DELL  &#xD;&#xA;- INSPIRON  &#xD;&#xA;- 500 - 750 / **650 - 750** US DOLLARS&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING (UP) &lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3FA3Z96648  &#xD;&#xA;CPU	: I7 (2.50GHZ, 6THGEN, DUAL)  &#xD;&#xA;SCRN  :  TOUCH 1080P FHD 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;RAM    :	8GB DDR3L (UP TO 16) 1600  &#xD;&#xA;HDD	   : 1TB 5400RPM SATA  &#xD;&#xA;ODD	   : DVD±R/RW  &#xD;&#xA;GPU	   : 4GB AMD RADEON R5M335   &#xD;&#xA;MDL : DELL INSPIRON 15 5559&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only problem is that this is **dual** core. My last laptop was 4 core which I thought was low but then adjusted to, got hot a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;01. Compile + edit with Maven. I have a near 300MB project so the PC got heated when I compiled.&#xD;&#xA;02. Play and run a minecraft server (same time). It has about 3 players on most of the time; but can go up to six (obviously more if I **wanted**)  &#xD;&#xA;03. Play TF2.  &#xD;&#xA;04. Video edit in Sony Vegas  &#xD;&#xA;05. Run Adobe Photoshop, both CS2 and the connected CC  &#xD;&#xA;06. Do a lot of homework (shouldn't be hard)  &#xD;&#xA;07. Run discord and Skype almost all the time  &#xD;&#xA;08. Occasionally Run Virtual Machines (XP,98,3.1,DOS 7.1)  &#xD;&#xA;09. Run dual boot (Ubuntu,Steam OS etc as well as Hackintosh (barely))  &#xD;&#xA;10. Download huge files (4-10GB) via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will all of these tasks run smoothly in a dual core build? If not, are there any better dell inspiron laptops that will suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17403" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="8f11f503-932f-4514-aac8-0f8c17a97b5d" CreationDate="2016-10-26T05:10:07.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17405" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="f353632f-865e-4b49-8ec5-8d53add171e7" CreationDate="2016-10-26T07:13:05.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6064" RevisionGUID="e2243626-d971-4403-b9a5-c60dd8e8c3d7" CreationDate="2016-10-26T09:47:20.407" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 88 characters in body" Text="My laptop recently broke. Now I need to buy a new one before Christmas ends or more preferably before the end of next week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements and **hopes**:  &#xD;&#xA;RAM:   &#xD;&#xA;- 8GB OF RAM **upgradable to 16**  &#xD;&#xA;HARD DRIVE AND OPTICAL DISK:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1TB HDD 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;- Any read+write ODD  &#xD;&#xA;CPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- AN I7 **new gen; 5th-7th**  &#xD;&#xA;- A 2.1 - 3.0 GHZ CLOCK **4 CORES**   &#xD;&#xA;SCREEN &amp; GPU/APU/IPU:  &#xD;&#xA;- 1080P  &#xD;&#xA;- Either **AMD (4GB)** or an IPU  &#xD;&#xA;- 15.6&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;COMPANY + OTHER&#xD;&#xA;- DELL  &#xD;&#xA;- INSPIRON  &#xD;&#xA;- 500 - 750 / **650 - 750** US DOLLARS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3FA3Z96648  &#xD;&#xA;CPU	: I7 (2.50GHZ, 6THGEN, DUAL)  &#xD;&#xA;SCRN  :  TOUCH 1080P FHD 15.6&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;RAM    :	8GB DDR3L (UP TO 16) 1600  &#xD;&#xA;HDD	   : 1TB 5400RPM SATA  &#xD;&#xA;ODD	   : DVD±R/RW  &#xD;&#xA;GPU	   : 4GB AMD RADEON R5M335   &#xD;&#xA;MDL : DELL INSPIRON 15 5559&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only problem is that this is **dual** core. My last laptop was 4 core which I thought was low but then adjusted to, got hot a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;01. Compile + edit with Maven. I have a near 300MB project so the PC got heated when I compiled.&#xD;&#xA;02. Play and run a minecraft server (same time). It has about 3 players on most of the time; but can go up to six (obviously more if I **wanted**)  &#xD;&#xA;03. Play TF2.  &#xD;&#xA;04. Video edit in Sony Vegas  &#xD;&#xA;05. Run Adobe Photoshop, both CS2 and the connected CC  &#xD;&#xA;06. Do a lot of homework (shouldn't be hard)  &#xD;&#xA;07. Run discord and Skype almost all the time  &#xD;&#xA;08. Occasionally Run Virtual Machines (XP,98,3.1,DOS 7.1)  &#xD;&#xA;09. Run dual boot (Ubuntu,Steam OS etc as well as Hackintosh (barely))  &#xD;&#xA;10. Download huge files (4-10GB) via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will all of these tasks run smoothly in a dual core build? If not, are there any better dell inspiron laptops that will suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17407" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="ee49bfb0-2026-4ae0-9a54-cfba8723f622" CreationDate="2016-10-26T09:48:39.387" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="a08023a9-7282-4916-b796-a419a4df8a19" CreationDate="2016-10-26T10:49:40.353" UserId="4776" Text="I am building a PC with AMD FX 6300. Frankly i do not know most of the parts but as my computer hardware person said the basic pc is going to be built till 23000 INR. My pc will have 1 TB WD HDD, 8GB Ram and power cooler fan. I want a Graphics card which is best for playing almost all games either to play on low or mid settings. My budget is 14000 INR and do not know much about a graphics card results.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone suggest me what to buy?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Side note:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I have a LG 700 sxga monitor having 1024x768 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;b&gt;I want a good graphics card and not a graphics card that will be best for my situation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17416" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="a08023a9-7282-4916-b796-a419a4df8a19" CreationDate="2016-10-26T10:49:40.353" UserId="4776" Text="Looking for a new Gpu card in my budget for gaming experience" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17417" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="a08023a9-7282-4916-b796-a419a4df8a19" CreationDate="2016-10-26T10:49:40.353" UserId="4776" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6070" RevisionGUID="641d31bc-7cbd-4a59-99a9-e11a8c624826" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:11:20.377" UserId="4766" Text="Converting your budget into USD, I would suggest:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 470][1]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 1060][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either would be more than powerful for your CPU+Monitor combination. :)&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDZ2FT/msi-radeon-rx-470-4gb-video-card-radeon-rx-470-gaming-x-4g&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HWtWGX/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="51df1c95-1d02-484e-80d3-0853b460b997" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:13:27.243" UserId="4776" Comment="Added an information as per requirements" Text="I am building a PC with AMD FX 6300. Frankly i do not know most of the parts but as my computer hardware person said the basic pc is going to be built till 23000 INR. My pc will have 1 TB WD HDD, 8GB Ram and power cooler fan. I want a Graphics card which is best for playing almost all games either to play on low or mid settings. My budget is 14000 INR and do not know much about a graphics card results.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone suggest me what to buy?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Side note:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I have a LG 700 sxga monitor having 1024x768 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;b&gt;I want a good graphics card and not a graphics card that will be best for my situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Updated: In USD my budget is 195 &lt;/b&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6070" RevisionGUID="25c6fc91-5895-4315-8adf-169d31067f0d" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:35:16.093" UserId="4766" Comment="Major change in the post" Text="After a brief search in hardwire.in, I recommend:  &#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 460][1]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 950][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the two, I would definitely go with the RX 460.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That way, your GPU would be decent for playing games when you upgrade to a 1080p monitor. 1440p or more would require tuning settings down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Converting your budget into USD, I would suggest:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! AMD: [RX 470][3]  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! NVidia: [GTX 1060][4]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Either would be more than powerful for your CPU+Monitor combination. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwire.in/home/2077-sapphire-radeon-rx-460-4-gb-nitro.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwire.in/graphics-cards/1878-asus-gtx-950-oc-2-gb.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDZ2FT/msi-radeon-rx-470-4gb-video-card-radeon-rx-470-gaming-x-4g&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HWtWGX/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="64c71eb2-a432-4d80-ab0f-1b389c21b0e0" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:40:48.787" UserId="4776" Comment="added a detail for proper question understanding" Text="I am building a PC with AMD FX 6300. Frankly i do not know most of the parts but as my computer hardware person said the basic pc is going to be built till 23000 INR. My pc will have 1 TB WD HDD, 8GB Ram and power cooler fan. I want a Graphics card which is best for playing almost all games either to play on low or mid settings. My budget is 14000 INR and do not know much about a graphics card results.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone suggest me what to buy?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Side note:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I have a LG 700 sxga monitor having 1024x768 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;b&gt;I want a good graphics card and not a graphics card that will be best for my situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Updated: In USD my budget is 195. I want a GDDR5 gpu!!&lt;/b&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6071" RevisionGUID="0a557146-675c-4579-9bdc-cbf63906becf" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:55:19.943" UserId="4787" Text="For a special task of an application development, I'm looking for a graphics card with at-least two independently monitor-plugable HDMI outputs. It also must support at-least three monitors simultaneously. I'll use one of the HDMI ports to output some video-overlay graphics and with the other one, the associated alpha channel will be transmitted. The third display port will be used for displaying the UI to the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the application is targeting the SDTV display mode (720x576@50Hz), thus the HDMI ports must support that mode, and the other denser HDTV display modes for the next versions! (however, the denser display modes are most probably supported!!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for either &lt;em&gt;robust&lt;/em&gt; and/or &lt;em&gt;regular&lt;/em&gt; models is truly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17423" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6071" RevisionGUID="0a557146-675c-4579-9bdc-cbf63906becf" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:55:19.943" UserId="4787" Text="Looking for a special graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17424" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6071" RevisionGUID="0a557146-675c-4579-9bdc-cbf63906becf" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:55:19.943" UserId="4787" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17425" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6070" RevisionGUID="3531db6b-2938-4e34-94df-b8dc294c5af7" CreationDate="2016-10-26T11:59:40.227" UserId="4766" Comment="Found another GPU" Text="Edit 2:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After a brief search in hardwire.in, I recommend:  &#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 460][1]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 1050 Ti][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the two, I would go with the GTX 1050 Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That way, your GPU would be decent for playing games when you upgrade to a 1080p monitor. 1440p or more would require tuning settings down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Converting your budget into USD, I would suggest:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! AMD: [RX 470][3]  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! NVidia: [GTX 1060][4]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Either would be more than powerful for your CPU+Monitor combination. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwire.in/home/2077-sapphire-radeon-rx-460-4-gb-nitro.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.theitdepot.com/details-Zotac+Geforce+GTX+1050+Ti+Mini+4GB+GDDR5+Graphic+Card+(ZT-P10510A-10L)_C45P27544.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDZ2FT/msi-radeon-rx-470-4gb-video-card-radeon-rx-470-gaming-x-4g&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HWtWGX/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17426" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6069" RevisionGUID="343a822c-125c-45e9-857d-968c4068fc9e" CreationDate="2016-10-26T12:06:10.883" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6070" RevisionGUID="b7877bc0-c9c3-48d9-8f3b-eba0e1424ac1" CreationDate="2016-10-26T12:39:24.873" UserId="57" Comment="No need for spoiler tags. Removed them" Text="After a brief search in hardwire.in, I recommend:  &#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 460][1]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 1050 Ti][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the two, I would go with the GTX 1050 Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That way, your GPU would be decent for playing games when you upgrade to a 1080p monitor. 1440p or more would require tuning settings down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Converting your budget into USD, I would suggest:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 470][3]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 1060][4]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Either would be more than powerful for your CPU+Monitor combination. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwire.in/home/2077-sapphire-radeon-rx-460-4-gb-nitro.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.theitdepot.com/details-Zotac+Geforce+GTX+1050+Ti+Mini+4GB+GDDR5+Graphic+Card+(ZT-P10510A-10L)_C45P27544.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDZ2FT/msi-radeon-rx-470-4gb-video-card-radeon-rx-470-gaming-x-4g&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HWtWGX/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17428" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6070" RevisionGUID="198c4b9b-b9cd-4376-8b54-557c3b7e1fc3" CreationDate="2016-10-26T12:42:07.290" UserId="4766" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="After a brief search in hardwire.in, I recommend:  &#xD;&#xA;AMD: [RX 460][1]  &#xD;&#xA;NVidia: [GTX 1050 Ti][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the two, I would go with the GTX 1050 Ti.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That way, your GPU would be decent for playing games when you upgrade to a 1080p monitor. 1440p or more would require tuning settings down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Converting your budget into USD, I would suggest:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;! &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! AMD: [RX 470][3]  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! NVidia: [GTX 1060][4]&#xD;&#xA;&gt;!  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;! Either would be more than powerful for your CPU+Monitor combination. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwire.in/home/2077-sapphire-radeon-rx-460-4-gb-nitro.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.theitdepot.com/details-Zotac+Geforce+GTX+1050+Ti+Mini+4GB+GDDR5+Graphic+Card+(ZT-P10510A-10L)_C45P27544.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dDZ2FT/msi-radeon-rx-470-4gb-video-card-radeon-rx-470-gaming-x-4g&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HWtWGX/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17429" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="ba452511-b23e-48c8-a999-751b604615b0" CreationDate="2016-10-26T13:19:49.720" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17430" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="34471264-92d7-4cd1-9351-72a74a232e32" CreationDate="2016-10-26T15:25:24.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17442" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="453d3275-87a7-4b82-9b3c-3c6e50d0f4f5" CreationDate="2016-10-26T18:10:54.727" UserId="4523" Comment="edited to reflect information garnered by comments" Text="I am looking for an external enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  2.5&quot; drive support is nominal, but 3.5&quot; will work as adapters are readily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA III to USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  2 to 3 bay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  Price under $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  Has on-board RAID hardware with options for RAID0, JBOD, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6.  If possible, fans that can be replaced without requiring disassembly of the entire unit *if actively cooled*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID options are not my main focus at present but some options will help in the near future.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have been told, the places I have looked for reviews are opinion based, not objective.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17445" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="25" RevisionGUID="46d8e967-5108-4a00-b672-66e03c45e37d" CreationDate="2016-10-26T19:15:37.737" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17446" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="25" RevisionGUID="f39d64f8-9ea3-4152-823b-69d40f6c6053" CreationDate="2016-10-26T19:15:37.737" UserId="8" Comment="44" />
  <row Id="17457" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6048" RevisionGUID="c2123fd9-7dbf-4785-9e94-a0ea6469231a" CreationDate="2016-10-26T21:53:49.643" UserId="4523" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an external enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  2.5&quot; drive support is nominal, but 3.5&quot; will work as adapters are readily available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA III to USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  2 to 3 bay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  Price under $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  Has on-board RAID hardware with options for RAID0, JBOD, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6.  If possible, fans that can be replaced without requiring disassembly of the entire unit *if actively cooled*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7.  Would prefer units with low failure rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID options are not my main focus at present but some options will help in the near future.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have been told, the places I have looked for reviews are opinion based, not objective.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17458" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5620" RevisionGUID="e99613bf-7fd1-4884-8c1f-032e6055dad2" CreationDate="2016-10-26T23:35:04.723" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17464" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5835" RevisionGUID="ba9570e1-a340-4c43-9d23-7f8d81fdc6c3" CreationDate="2016-10-27T07:47:34.007" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17473" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="b7a4166a-21ed-4a29-8b2f-29e9ad972ac3" CreationDate="2016-10-27T23:57:02.223" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="6e54d0aa-326e-4d8e-9542-103730eb1660" CreationDate="2016-10-28T00:48:47.040" UserId="4795" Text="Disclaimer: &#xD;&#xA;I feel dirty asking for subjective opinions for a personal use case on a StackExchange site... but http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware and http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/139/is-a-scope-of-product-recommendations-pre-purchase-inquiries-agreeable seem to say that is what I am supposed to do here. Weird. The (currently) top rated questions on the site seem to have that format as well. If this question is bad, please delete with no hard feelings. If this question actually is in scope, a user with high enough rep (or myself, later) can certainly delete this disclaimer. And maybe help me out with tags.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at purchasing a new computer within the next few months, for use in work applications. I am an IT project manager (read groupie for programmers/DBAs/engineers), and have multiple clients with different needs. I need to be able to compile with Visual Studio 2015, maintain like 40 browser tabs across multiple instances simultaneously, run multiple instances of Excel, Access, and SQL Server each at once (Office 365/2016), Outlook, Project, Remote Desktop Connection, sandbox MS IIS, and similar productivity stuff. I will need to stick with Windows 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I just use the HDMI port to output to an LCD TV. I would probably continue that practice, but I assume VGA and DVI cords would work just as well on this and similar screens. I only use one screen right now, but I really should have multiple video output ports for future use. I also use a cheap USB wireless mouse/keyboard. I have a preference for 1) maintaining wireless, and 2) not paying for another mouse/keyboard. I seldom (3-4x/month) use USB, and doubt I would use more than 1 (besides my mouse/keyboard) at a time. I would like to have a CD-ROM (writable) drive, partially because I miss my cup holder, but I also get CDs about 5x/year. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have the option to be able to run additional OSs in order to replicate user environments at some point, and a virtual environment would be useful for other reasons. Neither would be common occurrences. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to pay my ISP (once I am set up) to allow me to log into this machine remotely with one of my laptops, so I can still use it for processing and file serving while on site at a client. I am not a networking guy, and SE will undoubtedly be helping me to get that set up. I care little for the actual display quality during such a setup, but I will need to be able to open multiple very large (150x1,000,000) size spreadsheets, and do sort/filter on that data, displaying the result through remote desktop to my laptop. Probably nothing more intensive during the remote connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Building the computer myself would be cool, but that is about where the benefit for that (probably) ends. I remember installing a second 5.25 floppy drive on my first computer, and later an entire 20MB HD in the same computer (there was no one cooler than me in the whole world, at that point), but that is about where my building skills peaked. I soldered my brother's Playstation, installed multiple 4MB RAM sticks, and even took apart the power supply once. Now a days, I should be considered a novice at best in hardware matters. But, my wife's brother has a friend who knows a guy who says he could probably build a computer, so there you go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will definitely 100% be a business expense. That said, it might be nice to know I could do some leisure stuff, in case I ever get my work caught up. The most advanced game I have ever played is Civilization 4, and I can't imagine getting much more advanced than Civ6 within the next 4 years, and would probably be content sticking with Civ4, low graphics settings (I like what I like). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really need to worry about any more expansion capability beyond what I have already mentioned. If my business is doing so well that I need to upgrade in less than 5 years, I can afford to buy another machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, knowing that I need to purchase a Windows10 Pro license, are their any scenarios where buying the pieces and putting it together myself would be cheaper? (I doubt it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do different manufacturers have different track records, at the amount of computing power I will be doing (not much)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to consider any special cooling, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And most importantly, what is the cheapest way to get a box that can fulfill those requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17475" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="6e54d0aa-326e-4d8e-9542-103730eb1660" CreationDate="2016-10-28T00:48:47.040" UserId="4795" Text="Computer for Home Business" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17476" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="6e54d0aa-326e-4d8e-9542-103730eb1660" CreationDate="2016-10-28T00:48:47.040" UserId="4795" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="729" RevisionGUID="fd3363c9-fa08-4103-9f2d-bdad39403374" CreationDate="2016-10-28T02:02:36.697" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited (e.g. ref. &lt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/old_school#Adjective&gt;, &lt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Razer_products#Comparison_of_Razer_keyboards&gt;, and &lt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/plebeian#Adjective&gt;)." Text="If you don't need the *physical* keys to change (and well, a keycap puller and maybe spare keys would fix that), you could get a remappable mechanical keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got an old school [Razer BlackWidow][1] - now sold as the [BlackWidow Classic][2], but many keyboards of this sort would have similar features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has proper switches.&#xD;&#xA; - Because of this, you can just pull and move most keys around&#xD;&#xA; - You can *buy* replacement keycaps, even as a set.&#xD;&#xA; - Backlight optional, there's models without it.&#xD;&#xA; - You won't be a membrane-key-using plebeian.&#xD;&#xA; - You can disable, enable and remap keys to your heart's content&#xD;&#xA; - You aren't spending several thousand dollars for reconfiguring a keyboard. My key puller costs *three dollars*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Razer_products#Comparison_of_Razer_keyboards&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.razerzone.com/store/razer-blackwidow-ultimate-classic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17478" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="729" RevisionGUID="fd3363c9-fa08-4103-9f2d-bdad39403374" CreationDate="2016-10-28T02:02:36.697" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 155 edit id of 534" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="2bdc6b3d-99e4-43ef-998d-023bc2e5aa1c" CreationDate="2016-10-28T11:53:37.387" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 683 characters in body" Text="I am looking at purchasing a new computer within the next few months, for use in work applications. I am an IT project manager (read groupie for programmers/DBAs/engineers), and have multiple clients with different needs. I need to be able to compile with Visual Studio 2015, maintain like 40 browser tabs across multiple instances simultaneously, run multiple instances of Excel, Access, and SQL Server each at once (Office 365/2016), Outlook, Project, Remote Desktop Connection, sandbox MS IIS, and similar productivity stuff. I will need to stick with Windows 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I just use the HDMI port to output to an LCD TV. I would probably continue that practice, but I assume VGA and DVI cords would work just as well on this and similar screens. I only use one screen right now, but I really should have multiple video output ports for future use. I also use a cheap USB wireless mouse/keyboard. I have a preference for 1) maintaining wireless, and 2) not paying for another mouse/keyboard. I seldom (3-4x/month) use USB, and doubt I would use more than 1 (besides my mouse/keyboard) at a time. I would like to have a CD-ROM (writable) drive, partially because I miss my cup holder, but I also get CDs about 5x/year. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have the option to be able to run additional OSs in order to replicate user environments at some point, and a virtual environment would be useful for other reasons. Neither would be common occurrences. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to pay my ISP (once I am set up) to allow me to log into this machine remotely with one of my laptops, so I can still use it for processing and file serving while on site at a client. I am not a networking guy, and SE will undoubtedly be helping me to get that set up. I care little for the actual display quality during such a setup, but I will need to be able to open multiple very large (150x1,000,000) size spreadsheets, and do sort/filter on that data, displaying the result through remote desktop to my laptop. Probably nothing more intensive during the remote connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Building the computer myself would be cool, but that is about where the benefit for that (probably) ends. I remember installing a second 5.25 floppy drive on my first computer, and later an entire 20MB HD in the same computer (there was no one cooler than me in the whole world, at that point), but that is about where my building skills peaked. I soldered my brother's Playstation, installed multiple 4MB RAM sticks, and even took apart the power supply once. Now a days, I should be considered a novice at best in hardware matters. But, my wife's brother has a friend who knows a guy who says he could probably build a computer, so there you go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will definitely 100% be a business expense. That said, it might be nice to know I could do some leisure stuff, in case I ever get my work caught up. The most advanced game I have ever played is Civilization 4, and I can't imagine getting much more advanced than Civ6 within the next 4 years, and would probably be content sticking with Civ4, low graphics settings (I like what I like). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really need to worry about any more expansion capability beyond what I have already mentioned. If my business is doing so well that I need to upgrade in less than 5 years, I can afford to buy another machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, knowing that I need to purchase a Windows10 Pro license, are their any scenarios where buying the pieces and putting it together myself would be cheaper? (I doubt it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do different manufacturers have different track records, at the amount of computing power I will be doing (not much)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to consider any special cooling, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And most importantly, what is the cheapest way to get a box that can fulfill those requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6086" RevisionGUID="dcf25b5a-ed82-4fa5-85c6-d1f678fd666a" CreationDate="2016-10-28T16:34:18.630" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest the following: [custom amd build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/NZKshatriya/saved/#view=kxpGXL)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Under the budget maximum.&#xD;&#xA;2.  Suitable for business applications, and light gaming *Civ series as specified*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  The motherboard supports a maximum of 64GB DDR3.  As the example build sits, only two of the four DIMMS will be occupied, giving you 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, more storage can always be added to suit your specific needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went through and was going for an Intel based build.....the costs were...high." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6089" RevisionGUID="f8b8103e-21dd-4cda-b1d9-d4a72ad2f0e4" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:06:04.983" UserId="2607" Text="NZKshatriya didn't spec out your machine for today but instead projected the machine to last you at least 4-5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quad core is a minimum, 8 core would be best. My desktop runs an 8 core processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as the video card, yes, that's about right. Nothing extravagant but that will get the job done for any display you wish to push to. Furthermore, I cannot recommend DVI cables. Seen FAR too many of them just fail and require replacement. HDMI or DisplayPort would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I would change from his build would be the hard drive. An SSD is now my standard for every machine I get due to such a fast reduction in start up times and speed of operation. I'm seeing 400-500GB SSD's for less than $130.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a business, you should have an external storage arrary for data retention and only keep a year or less of data on your local to reference." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6091" RevisionGUID="fc3dfeb1-d5ef-4b1b-94ac-0f39d10a8d26" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:45:31.700" UserId="4549" Text="I have a Foscam 1918w, which I created a custom interface for. The process wasn't cool, and it wasn't transparent about how to reprogram the interface. I also had to overhaul the front-end, which was super insecure. Now, I'm in the market for another panning and tilting nanny cam, with or without mic, and the ability to write and or reprogram the device is a key feature.  (When I bought the foscam, I misread/ interpreted the name as FOSS-Cam, and thought it would be an open hardware project. That was a mistake.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a panning, tilting, network camera, that is based on open hardware, or at the very least, open source software. If anyone knows of products like that, I would be very interested. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17507" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6091" RevisionGUID="fc3dfeb1-d5ef-4b1b-94ac-0f39d10a8d26" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:45:31.700" UserId="4549" Text="Looking for a programable nanny cam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17508" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6091" RevisionGUID="fc3dfeb1-d5ef-4b1b-94ac-0f39d10a8d26" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:45:31.700" UserId="4549" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17515" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6086" RevisionGUID="6de0fd87-772c-4774-9fff-48f65a65f4f5" CreationDate="2016-10-28T21:23:15.417" UserId="4523" Comment="added 267 characters in body" Text="I would suggest the following: [custom amd build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/NZKshatriya/saved/#view=kxpGXL)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Under the budget maximum.&#xD;&#xA;2.  Suitable for business applications, and light gaming *Civ series as specified*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;attn:  Ignore the memory chosen, replace that with [Crucial 32GB Kit](https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR3L-1600-PC3-12800-CT2K16G3ERSLD4160B-CT2C16G3ERSLD4160B/dp/B008BPYKPM/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477689566&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=DDR3+32gb&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2253866011)  This was the least expensive 16GBx2 kit I could find.  If you need more ram, you can add a second set at a later date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, more storage can always be added to suit your specific needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went through and was going for an Intel based build.....the costs were...high." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17519" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6095" RevisionGUID="e1dc23d5-fac6-44b3-a6db-2c48a8fe3dce" CreationDate="2016-10-28T23:13:30.473" UserId="531" Text="I'd actually consider a good business-centred PC - We run the small form factor versions of the [HP Elitedesk][1] 800s at work, though I personally am biased towards a full desktop formfactor. Thinkstations are the lenovo equivalent and dell probably has one too. *Avoid* consumer models - they're uniformly crap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few nice things about this. When its under warranty, they'll handle it for you. I'd *personally* consider getting the processor I want with a baseline amount of ram, and upgrade the storage (to an SSD) and ram (to the max it would handle) myself but weight the minor amount of work vs getting someone to do it for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.hp.com/us/en/mdp/desktops/elitedesk-800-tower-349549--1#!&amp;Tab=features" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17532" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6091" RevisionGUID="26417796-c5a0-4477-ad91-694e00a29198" CreationDate="2016-10-29T08:31:04.020" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6099" RevisionGUID="8ffbf483-5bb0-47c1-a86e-34a840544afc" CreationDate="2016-10-29T15:29:46.643" UserId="4331" Text="There is an Australian company called [Sonder](https://sonderdesign.com/) that is putting in the marked a keyboard based on e-ink keys (the same display technolgy used on e-readers), it is in pre-order for 199$ and you can find it here: https://sonderdesign.com/product/sonder-keyboard/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems also that Apple is interested in this type of technology. _Apple reportedly plans to ship the keyboards in its computers beginning in 2018._&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More info here: http://arstechnica.com/apple/2016/10/report-apple-is-working-on-e-ink-keyboard-for-future-macbooks/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="95188e75-cc37-4408-bf9d-71b924196c33" CreationDate="2016-10-30T12:51:26.127" UserId="3867" Text="#Description of what I am doing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Fractal Design 804 NODE case supports a total of 10 storage drives. (8 3.5 inch disk drives in one half of the case, which is divided into 2 sections, and 2 solid state drives at various other points inside the case.*)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note depending on PSU length etc I think it may be possible to fit more than this, however for my purposes, a 10 drive configuration is what I am aiming for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My objective is to build a datacenter to backup my data. My aim is to have 8 sata 6GB/s hard disks, all operating in RAID1 as pairs. ie; 4 lots of X terabyte storage units. The reason for this is to run a &quot;rolling-raid&quot; backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Explanation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- One writes backup data to the first RAID 1 pair.&#xD;&#xA;- The next backup is written to the second RAID 1 pair.&#xD;&#xA;- Then the third, then the fourth.&#xD;&#xA;- Since we have run out of storage medium to write to, the next backup is written to the first RAID 1 pair. The old data can either be over-written, or one can create subfolders with the date, and just keep writing until the disk is full.&#xD;&#xA;- If the disk becomes full, delete older backups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems like a fairly safe, and manual way of creating backup data. RAID 1 protects us against a disk crash, and the rolling raid means if we do something stupid and delete all our data on one physical storage unit then there are 3 other recent backups to minimize damage. (I have done this before when copying data from an external disk to a local disk, and running `rm -r` when forgetting which working directory I am in... Sometimes it just happens when you make a human error.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since these are &quot;backups&quot; in the sense that all the data is copied from another location (primary), then even if we wreck the most recent backup then we should be able to recreate it from the primary anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have sort of diverged here with this discussion, but hopefully it is now clear what I am trying to do. This could be done with a 3-way rolling raid rather than 4, but I would prefer 4 as it allows flexibility in future configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final 2 drives are to be used for operating systems. Technically I only need 1, but my guess is motherboards will ship with 10 sata connections not 9. Also 9 would suggest one cannot have RAID 1 configurations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NODE 804 only supports micro-atx motherboards. Are there any micro-atx motherboards which have 10 sata connections? Even better: Are there any micro-atx motherboards with 10 sata 6GB/s connections? Better still, are there any which allow for 4x RAID 1 configurations, where the RAID 1 is composed of 2 physical disks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not I guess I can run a software RAID, although this will be slower. Also note that I don't want to install additional RAID 1 expansion cards (pci-e etc) as these may require drivers and I intend to run Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17561" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="95188e75-cc37-4408-bf9d-71b924196c33" CreationDate="2016-10-30T12:51:26.127" UserId="3867" Text="Fractal Design NODE 804 supports 10 drives. What micro-atx motherboards support this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17562" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="95188e75-cc37-4408-bf9d-71b924196c33" CreationDate="2016-10-30T12:51:26.127" UserId="3867" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6105" RevisionGUID="cc43ec5b-fe62-468a-aac7-2dc179e219e5" CreationDate="2016-10-30T13:13:12.773" UserId="4024" Text="Front-end dev generally involves high read-write throughput and compiling hundreds or thousands of small files regularly.  I'm trying to figure out which SSDs are fastest at that sort of workload (it's not often any of the files will be over 1Mb).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using Visual Studio, Code, Node, NPM etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone explain what features I should be looking for in the new SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  I've read dozens of SSD benchmarks and most seem to have a low MB/s thoughput (~80Mb/s) when dealing with smaller files." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17564" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6105" RevisionGUID="cc43ec5b-fe62-468a-aac7-2dc179e219e5" CreationDate="2016-10-30T13:13:12.773" UserId="4024" Text="What's the fastest SSD for Front-End Development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17565" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6105" RevisionGUID="cc43ec5b-fe62-468a-aac7-2dc179e219e5" CreationDate="2016-10-30T13:13:12.773" UserId="4024" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17566" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6106" RevisionGUID="7f13df90-aee2-4fea-ab59-3624dcd28e07" CreationDate="2016-10-30T13:42:35.833" UserId="4810" Text="It is not completely true to say that there are no DSL modems supported by openwrt. Though some are definitely harder to flash with OpenWRT than others, requiring custom JTAG connections and opening up the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Buffalo WBMR-HP-G300H will work with OpenWRT and support both annex a and b with ADSL 2+ (though NOT VDSL). However you need to upgrade via DD-WRT because of the way buffalo enforces encrypted images out of the box.  On the plus side, you don't need to open up the unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: https://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/buffalo/wbmr-hp-g300h" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6107" RevisionGUID="0de45c32-270b-467e-a8fe-baf884880a40" CreationDate="2016-10-30T15:38:49.520" UserId="4523" Text="As far as boards with 10x SATA III 6GBps, I would go with this board:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EVGA X99 Micro2](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188176)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasoning:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Built in m.2 support, ideal for an OS drive, leaving all SATA devices open for other uses.&#xD;&#xA;2.  DDR4 as opposed to older DDR3&#xD;&#xA;3.  i7 support&#xD;&#xA;4.  3 year warranty should issues with the board arise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6108" RevisionGUID="a0200fc6-8efc-40ec-b394-325b8b189a32" CreationDate="2016-10-31T09:11:47.223" UserId="4812" Text="I am looking for a graphics card that would be used in a desktop pc running GNU/Linux used mainly for coding. I won't run any games that would require high performance, but I want the card to support three 1920x1080 monitors via digital ports. Nice to have: ability to run OpenCL/CUDA on this card. So what is the cheapest way to meet these requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17570" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6108" RevisionGUID="a0200fc6-8efc-40ec-b394-325b8b189a32" CreationDate="2016-10-31T09:11:47.223" UserId="4812" Text="Graphics card for a coding desktop with three displays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17571" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6108" RevisionGUID="a0200fc6-8efc-40ec-b394-325b8b189a32" CreationDate="2016-10-31T09:11:47.223" UserId="4812" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17577" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="6f4c36fc-6548-46e0-aae8-e2191642699c" CreationDate="2016-10-31T11:29:37.273" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="I am a developer, and I can now afford to buy a good keyboard for work. What do you recommend for a good ergonomic keyboard preferable with media controls?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not need to be ergonomic. Looking cool would be nice, but not a big deal. Basically what keyboard do you recommend for a developer (Windows local machine, but [VNC][1] into Linux most of the time.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not need to be portable, and there isn't much of a constraint cost. Mostly I am looking for something ergonomic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_Network_Computing&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17578" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="6f4c36fc-6548-46e0-aae8-e2191642699c" CreationDate="2016-10-31T11:29:37.273" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited." Text="Premium keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17579" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="850" RevisionGUID="6f4c36fc-6548-46e0-aae8-e2191642699c" CreationDate="2016-10-31T11:29:37.273" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 1366, 203 edit id of 535" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6112" RevisionGUID="96ac0f9e-ddb6-46e6-bc06-d14619a946eb" CreationDate="2016-10-31T15:28:20.713" UserId="4504" Text="This [GTX960][1] seems to meet your needs. 3 display ports, and with this one or any [OpenCL][2] API, it meets your other criteria. Under $200 also meets your &quot;As cheap as possible&quot; criteria.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Now, like others have said, most newer cards are going to meet your criteria, and using PCpartpicker you can select cards that have 3 display ports. So if my suggestion doesn't fit your bill, you should be able to find what you're looking for fairly quick. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/TLkwrH/zotac-video-card-zt9030110m&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://compubench.com/device.jsp?benchmark=compu20&amp;testgroup=info&amp;os=Windows&amp;api=cl&amp;D=NVIDIA%20GeForce%20GTX%20960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6114" RevisionGUID="770f0e8a-01e2-4122-85ea-cdbc25165b38" CreationDate="2016-10-31T15:56:56.670" UserId="2607" Text="Here's my recommendation. Meet's all your specs and runs fast. I have a 7450 which I'm very pleased with and runs my ruby code VM's along with dual monitors and wireless gaming every now and again. The 7470 is a step up from that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Latitude E7450&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;6th Gen i7 vPro&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;14&quot; screen&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;512GB SSD&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;16GB RAM&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2 USB 3.0 ports&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Optional 4 cell battery for 8hr+ battery life&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3lbs&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;$2100-ish&lt;p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;http://configure.us.dell.com/dellstore/print_summary_details_popup.aspx?~lt=print&amp;c=us&amp;cs=04&amp;fb=1&amp;l=en&amp;model_id=latitude-e7470-ultrabook&amp;oc=cto05le747014us&amp;s=bsd&amp;vw=classic&amp;leadtime=11/7/2016&amp;showleadtime=True" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6115" RevisionGUID="49844f5d-6668-4200-b466-e7307ff5f11b" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:28:48.273" UserId="2607" Text="Here's a link with some good charts for identifying which SSD has better 4k random read/writes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.myce.com/review/kingston-hyperx-3k-ssd-review-61544/IOMeter-test-results-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Random reads are typically slower but that link has great identifiers for the highest performers from 2012. Yes, it is 4 years old but can give you some great info and some of the top performing SSD's are still available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6115" RevisionGUID="ac73649f-4ec5-4c6a-aa05-85c3a62beb86" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:46:59.977" UserId="2607" Comment="deleted 67 characters in body" Text="Here's a link with some good charts for identifying which SSD has better 4k random read/writes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.anandtech.com/show/8216/samsung-ssd-850-pro-128gb-256gb-1tb-review-enter-the-3d-era/10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like the Samsung SSD 850 Pro would be your best bet at 106 MB. The same brand/model just with 512GB of storage instead is at 103 Mb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doing dev work with files just 4kb in size is really not a fair test. Sure, not alot of files are 1MB but there are TONS of 100kb files and more. The 128kb file testing may be a better performance measure for you. However, at that testing level it may be that you are just splitting hairs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my SSD for Ruby on Rails dev work along with HTML5 dev and some online code editors as well running on RAID arrays and found not much locally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17591" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6115" RevisionGUID="767bb4e6-6864-4850-805b-5f6872f855c1" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:57:33.480" UserId="2607" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="Here's a link with some good charts for identifying which SSD has better 4k random read/writes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.anandtech.com/show/8216/samsung-ssd-850-pro-128gb-256gb-1tb-review-enter-the-3d-era/10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like the Samsung SSD 850 Pro would be your best bet at 106 MB. The same brand/model just with 512GB of storage instead is at 103 Mb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doing dev work with files just 4kb in size is really not a fair test. Sure, not alot of files are 1MB but there are TONS of 100kb files and more. The 128kb file testing may be a better performance measure for you. However, at that testing level it may be that you are just splitting hairs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my SSD for Ruby on Rails dev work along with HTML5 dev and some online code editors as well running on RAID arrays and found not much difference locally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6116" RevisionGUID="32029fd7-de67-43e4-8f0f-8bfc47bbea8c" CreationDate="2016-10-31T18:30:42.157" UserId="4523" Text="Something like [this](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167363&amp;ignorebbr=1) would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is up there, but performance is as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Sequential Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 2500 MBps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Sequential Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 1200 MBps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4KB Random Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 460,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4KB Random Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 290,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe 3.0 @ 1.2TB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6117" RevisionGUID="7d736e15-2e1e-4e4e-b847-ccdcac6d45ef" CreationDate="2016-10-31T19:06:50.710" UserId="4523" Text="The only thing that I can find that comes close to your specifications is this:&#xD;&#xA;[MSI 14.0&quot; GS43VR](http://www.newegg.com/Hard-Drive-Enclosures/SubCategory/ID-92?Tid=8040)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  14&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;2.  16GB DDR4 (expandable)&#xD;&#xA;3.  Internal m.2 SSD (base of 128GB, can be upgraded to desired size)&#xD;&#xA;4.  Internal 2.5&quot; SATA III (can be upgraded)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The easiest thing I can think of for the keyboard situation, is to just get a normal desktop keyboard and type with that.  First reason:  Your system WANTS compared to what is available in reality, is not jiving. Second reason....there are keyboards that can be customized beyond that of built in keyboards on the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as the battery life, that is something that hardly ever lives up to even the manufacturer ratings.  Just like rated MPGs on cars, it all depends on the system use.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I came as close as I could find to a specs matching system.  You may not like the recommendation, then again you may not.  I know it does not fully match your specs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17595" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6108" RevisionGUID="65b03bc5-24a7-4c3b-8a64-022f09028749" CreationDate="2016-10-31T22:11:01.177" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="95a39831-a109-46a8-9983-3a28e5479f55" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:13:10.413" UserId="4821" Text="I recently bought a WD My Passport Ultra 3TB external HDD. It's performing beautifully and blazing fast, zero complaints there. However I did find out that my aging router (TP-Link's TL-WDR4300) doesn't support GPT-formatted external drives. Formatting the drive to use MBR would result in the router only seeing 2 out of the 3 TB of storage, which is a no-go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I made a bucket list of my requirements for a new router, but so far have been unsuccessful in finding a device that fits them all. I suspect even if I find it, it'll be $300+ but I can swallow that -- it's not like you buy a router every few months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabit WAN (future-proofing, you know).&#xD;&#xA;Gigabit LAN, 4 ports.&#xD;&#xA;2 or more USB ports. At least one has to be USB 3.0 because that's where I'll put my external HDD.&#xD;&#xA;High availability / resilience to overloading (not against DoS / DDoS however; I don't think there are routers who can withstand a focused attack anyway so that's out of my wish list). My WDR4300 &quot;clogs&quot; if I seed my Linux / misc OSS disk image torrents for an hour or so; it stops serving internet connectivity to everything at home even if I stop my torrent program. I limited the software's maximum allowed connections to 150 but that only makes the seeding period little longer -- around 4h at most, then the same thing happens. Only a restart of the router helps.&#xD;&#xA;I want the external HDD formatted in a file system that will allow me to use it everywhere I wish: on my Win10 PC, on my Macbook, and optionally on an old Linux / FreeBSD laptop. Plus, I want it recognized by the router of course. In a nutshell, I want the HDD to normally reside at home and be usable by the entire family through the router but I also want to be able to unhook it and carry it with me if the need calls for it. To that end, I was unable to find a router that can use a GPT-formatted exFAT external HDD. I am not against formatting it to HFS+ and use it on my PC through Paragon's HFS+ paid software, if that is what it takes to find a compliant router.&#xD;&#xA;RJ-45 compliant. I don't care about optics or SIM slots.&#xD;&#xA;Print server. That however might not be critical because TP-Link already has a program that I installed on my Windows 10 PC and it almost immediately found my printer. I'm guessing the lack of print server can be alleviated with similar means on other brands, but do correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not a deal breaker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5Ghz network.&#xD;&#xA;OpenWRT / DD-WRT / Tomato compatibility. Not very fussed about that however; I tried using DD-WRT on my WDR4300 but after being unable to set up a guest network even after following the officially documented ways of doing it and even though I repeated the process probably 5 times (accompanied by restarts), I finally gave up and was left scratching my head on why do the open-source tools make it so hard to setup such basic features.&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind sinking up to $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas for devices, anyone? Pointers to information aggregators or additional search query recommendations are welcome as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17616" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="95a39831-a109-46a8-9983-3a28e5479f55" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:13:10.413" UserId="4821" Text="Looking for router that can handle 3TB exFAT / HFS+ external HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17617" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="95a39831-a109-46a8-9983-3a28e5479f55" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:13:10.413" UserId="4821" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17618" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="208260a2-0b05-43cf-a3e4-8d2592db063b" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:24:41.047" UserId="4821" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I recently bought a WD My Passport Ultra 3TB external HDD. It's performing beautifully and blazing fast, zero complaints there. However I did find out that my aging router (TP-Link's TL-WDR4300) doesn't support GPT-formatted external drives. Formatting the drive to use MBR would result in the router only seeing 2 out of the 3 TB of storage, which is a no-go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I made a bucket list of my requirements for a new router, but so far have been unsuccessful in finding a device that fits them all. I suspect even if I find it, it'll be $300+ but I can swallow that -- it's not like you buy a router every few months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit WAN (future-proofing, you know).&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit LAN, 4 ports.&#xD;&#xA;- 2 or more USB ports. At least one has to be USB 3.0 because that's where I'll put my external HDD.&#xD;&#xA;- High availability / resilience to overloading (not against DoS / DDoS however; I don't think there are routers who can withstand a focused attack anyway so that's out of my wish list). My WDR4300 &quot;clogs&quot; if I seed my Linux / misc OSS disk image torrents for an hour or so; it stops serving internet connectivity to everything at home even if I stop my torrent program. I limited the software's maximum allowed connections to 150 but that only makes the seeding period little longer -- around 4h at most, then the same thing happens. Only a restart of the router helps.&#xD;&#xA;- I want the external HDD formatted in a file system that will allow me to use it everywhere I wish: on my Win10 PC, on my Macbook, and optionally on an old Linux / FreeBSD laptop. Plus, I want it recognized by the router of course. In a nutshell, I want the HDD to normally reside at home and be usable by the entire family through the router but I also want to be able to unhook it and carry it with me if the need calls for it. To that end, I was unable to find a router that can use a GPT-formatted exFAT external HDD. I am not against formatting it to HFS+ and use it on my PC through Paragon's HFS+ paid software, if that is what it takes to find a compliant router.&#xD;&#xA;- RJ-45 compliant. I don't care about optics or SIM slots.&#xD;&#xA;Print server. That however might not be critical because TP-Link already has a program that I installed on my Windows 10 PC and it almost immediately found my printer. I'm guessing the lack of print server can be alleviated with similar means on other brands, but do correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not a deal breaker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5Ghz network.&#xD;&#xA;- OpenWRT / DD-WRT / Tomato compatibility. Not very fussed about that however; I tried using DD-WRT on my WDR4300 but after being unable to set up a guest network even after following the officially documented ways of doing it and even though I repeated the process probably 5 times (accompanied by restarts), I finally gave up and was left scratching my head on why do the open-source tools make it so hard to setup such basic features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind sinking up to $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas for devices, anyone? Pointers to information aggregators or additional search query recommendations are welcome as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17619" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="f2a9e851-6387-4503-9b49-f1580276bd2c" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:31:52.427" UserId="4821" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="(EDIT: Horrible initial formatting.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently bought a WD My Passport Ultra 3TB external HDD. It's performing beautifully and blazing fast, zero complaints there. However I did find out that my aging router (TP-Link's TL-WDR4300) doesn't support GPT-formatted external drives. Formatting the drive to use MBR would result in the router only seeing 2 out of the 3 TB of storage, which is a no-go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I made a bucket list of my requirements for a new router, but so far have been unsuccessful in finding a device that fits them all. I suspect even if I find it, it'll be $300+ but I can swallow that -- it's not like you buy a router every few months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit WAN (future-proofing, you know).&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit LAN, 4 ports.&#xD;&#xA;- 2 or more USB ports. At least one has to be USB 3.0 because that's where I'll put my external HDD.&#xD;&#xA;- High availability / resilience to overloading (not against DoS / DDoS however; I don't think there are routers who can withstand a focused attack anyway so that's out of my wish list). My WDR4300 &quot;clogs&quot; if I seed my Linux / misc OSS disk image torrents for an hour or so; it stops serving internet connectivity to everything at home even if I stop my torrent program. I limited the software's maximum allowed connections to 150 but that only makes the seeding period little longer -- around 4h at most, then the same thing happens. Only a restart of the router helps.&#xD;&#xA;- I want the external HDD formatted in a file system that will allow me to use it everywhere I wish: on my Win10 PC, on my Macbook, and optionally on an old Linux / FreeBSD laptop. Plus, I want it recognized by the router of course. In a nutshell, I want the HDD to normally reside at home and be usable by the entire family through the router but I also want to be able to unhook it and carry it with me if the need calls for it. To that end, I was unable to find a router that can use a GPT-formatted exFAT external HDD. I am not against formatting it to HFS+ and use it on my PC through Paragon's HFS+ paid software, if that is what it takes to find a compliant router.&#xD;&#xA;- RJ-45 compliant. I don't care about optics or SIM slots.&#xD;&#xA;Print server. That however might not be critical because TP-Link already has a program that I installed on my Windows 10 PC and it almost immediately found my printer. I'm guessing the lack of print server can be alleviated with similar means on other brands, but do correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not a deal breaker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5Ghz network.&#xD;&#xA;- OpenWRT / DD-WRT / Tomato compatibility. Not very fussed about that however; I tried using DD-WRT on my WDR4300 but after being unable to set up a guest network even after following the officially documented ways of doing it and even though I repeated the process probably 5 times (accompanied by restarts), I finally gave up and was left scratching my head on why do the open-source tools make it so hard to setup such basic features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind sinking up to $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas for devices, anyone? Pointers to information aggregators or additional search query recommendations are welcome as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="296342bd-722b-4584-9b65-75a61cc718e5" CreationDate="2016-11-01T22:42:58.383" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 40 characters in body" Text="I recently bought a WD My Passport Ultra 3TB external HDD. It's performing beautifully and blazing fast, zero complaints there. However I did find out that my aging router (TP-Link's TL-WDR4300) doesn't support GPT-formatted external drives. Formatting the drive to use MBR would result in the router only seeing 2 out of the 3 TB of storage, which is a no-go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I made a bucket list of my requirements for a new router, but so far have been unsuccessful in finding a device that fits them all. I suspect even if I find it, it'll be $300+ but I can swallow that -- it's not like you buy a router every few months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit WAN (future-proofing, you know).&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit LAN, 4 ports.&#xD;&#xA;- 2 or more USB ports. At least one has to be USB 3.0 because that's where I'll put my external HDD.&#xD;&#xA;- High availability / resilience to overloading (not against DoS / DDoS however; I don't think there are routers who can withstand a focused attack anyway so that's out of my wish list). My WDR4300 &quot;clogs&quot; if I seed my Linux / misc OSS disk image torrents for an hour or so; it stops serving internet connectivity to everything at home even if I stop my torrent program. I limited the software's maximum allowed connections to 150 but that only makes the seeding period little longer -- around 4h at most, then the same thing happens. Only a restart of the router helps.&#xD;&#xA;- I want the external HDD formatted in a file system that will allow me to use it everywhere I wish: on my Win10 PC, on my Macbook, and optionally on an old Linux / FreeBSD laptop. Plus, I want it recognized by the router of course. In a nutshell, I want the HDD to normally reside at home and be usable by the entire family through the router but I also want to be able to unhook it and carry it with me if the need calls for it. To that end, I was unable to find a router that can use a GPT-formatted exFAT external HDD. I am not against formatting it to HFS+ and use it on my PC through Paragon's HFS+ paid software, if that is what it takes to find a compliant router.&#xD;&#xA;- RJ-45 compliant. I don't care about optics or SIM slots.&#xD;&#xA;Print server. That however might not be critical because TP-Link already has a program that I installed on my Windows 10 PC and it almost immediately found my printer. I'm guessing the lack of print server can be alleviated with similar means on other brands, but do correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not a deal breaker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5Ghz network.&#xD;&#xA;- OpenWRT / DD-WRT / Tomato compatibility. Not very fussed about that however; I tried using DD-WRT on my WDR4300 but after being unable to set up a guest network even after following the officially documented ways of doing it and even though I repeated the process probably 5 times (accompanied by restarts), I finally gave up and was left scratching my head on why do the open-source tools make it so hard to setup such basic features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind sinking up to $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas for devices, anyone? Pointers to information aggregators or additional search query recommendations are welcome as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6121" RevisionGUID="b021e056-d903-42d3-9476-0a1c3af331af" CreationDate="2016-11-01T23:14:35.873" UserId="4823" Text="I need to be able to test software on different Windows OS and I'm not able to use Virtual Machines. Currently, I clone drives and plug them into a SATA cable inside the PC case. The cloned drives have the Windows OS installed and I can boot to the drive, install the test s/w, test and then re-clone the drives. Now, I would like to be able to do this without having to open the PC case. Can I use a SATA port on the back and a hard drive docking station to boot to Windows? Would an external hard drive with SATA be more appropriate?   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17622" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6121" RevisionGUID="b021e056-d903-42d3-9476-0a1c3af331af" CreationDate="2016-11-01T23:14:35.873" UserId="4823" Text="External Bootable C:\ Drive for Windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17623" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6121" RevisionGUID="b021e056-d903-42d3-9476-0a1c3af331af" CreationDate="2016-11-01T23:14:35.873" UserId="4823" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17624" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6121" RevisionGUID="93cb28cb-4462-45d1-a3b1-396637f93663" CreationDate="2016-11-01T23:48:32.453" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17625" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6122" RevisionGUID="e36cf433-c95c-47f5-ae68-338c402a227b" CreationDate="2016-11-02T00:43:39.480" UserId="275" Text="I'm wanting a label printer for the specific purpose of printing labels for prototyping board games, to stick to playing cards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to be able to design the labels on my computer, and have them print, ideally on to a roll of labels, rather than sheets of labels. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Label size isn't rigid - but I'm ideally wanting labels as large as possible that will fit on a standard playing card (a standard playing card is 2.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;, so labels slightly smaller than that). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the label printer to be able to print detailed images, though if there's an effective text only printer, it's worth considering. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17626" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6122" RevisionGUID="e36cf433-c95c-47f5-ae68-338c402a227b" CreationDate="2016-11-02T00:43:39.480" UserId="275" Text="Label printer for printing labels from computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17627" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6122" RevisionGUID="e36cf433-c95c-47f5-ae68-338c402a227b" CreationDate="2016-11-02T00:43:39.480" UserId="275" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6123" RevisionGUID="0bfee6e1-87b0-440c-a8cc-c2f95fd9818d" CreationDate="2016-11-02T01:15:17.367" UserId="2352" Text="I found something! After looking for a few months, I came across [this press release][1] for the Aten 2-Port USB DisplayPort KVM Switch that specifically mentions support for displayport resolutions up to 4096x2160 @60Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found it for sale on newegg and Amazon, and it looks like it's been out for while, but both sites only listed support for UHD resolution (3840x2160). I got it, plugged it in, and it worked great! Full resolution and refresh rate on both my computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/us/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs782dp/#.WBOTiOErJE4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6126" RevisionGUID="a5f9344c-3559-46d0-877e-0fa70974d09c" CreationDate="2016-11-02T12:45:38.803" UserId="57" Text="I've had great success with a [Dymo Labelwriter 450 Turbo][1]. I use it to generate shipping labels, inventory labels, and name tags (with pictures) most often. I've used it for prototyping a few things as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Labelwriter 450 turbo][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 450 supports a [large variety of label sizes][3]. I am not seeing one that is exactly 2.5x3.5, but there are a number that are close and are both adhesive and nonadhesive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 450 comes with software from Dymo that is used to create labels. It's not difficult to work with. The software does make generating certain things - like barcodes (but it doesn't sound like you need those) - very easy. You just need to tie a barcode field to a label field and the barcode generates for you automatically. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Printing a label can be done programmatically too. To do this, you need to create the label template. Then utilize the [SDK][4] to pass data to your label. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can buy the printer from Dymo directly for less than $150. Labels vary in price depending on the size and type of labels you want. I recommend that you look through the label sizes and make sure you can find a size you are happy with, before going with the printer. Assuming that you can find the label size that you want, this is an excellent label maker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dymo.com/en-US/labelwriter-450-turbo-label-printer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SR1i6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dymo.com/SearchDisplay?pageSize=12&amp;pageView=list&amp;catalogId=10551&amp;facet=ads_f14001_ntk_cs%3A%22labelwriter-450-turbo%22&amp;beginIndex=0&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=20051&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dymo.com/en-US/online-support-sdk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17632" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6120" RevisionGUID="815d8073-e393-4113-95ed-a0ebb957b803" CreationDate="2016-11-02T13:18:03.557" UserId="4821" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I recently bought a WD My Passport Ultra 3TB external HDD. It's performing beautifully and blazing fast, zero complaints there. However I did find out that my aging router (TP-Link's TL-WDR4300) doesn't support GPT-formatted external drives. Formatting the drive to use MBR would result in the router only seeing 2 out of the 3 TB of storage, which is a no-go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I made a bucket list of my requirements for a new router, but so far have been unsuccessful in finding a device that fits them all. I suspect even if I find it, it'll be $300+ but I can swallow that -- it's not like you buy a router every few months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit WAN (future-proofing, you know).&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit LAN, 4 ports.&#xD;&#xA;- 2 or more USB ports. At least one has to be USB 3.0 because that's where I'll put my external HDD.&#xD;&#xA;- High availability / resilience to overloading (not against DoS / DDoS however; I don't think there are routers who can withstand a focused attack anyway so that's out of my wish list). My WDR4300 &quot;clogs&quot; if I seed my Linux / misc OSS disk image torrents for an hour or so; it stops serving internet connectivity to everything at home even if I stop my torrent program. I limited the software's maximum allowed connections to 150 but that only makes the seeding period little longer -- around 4h at most, then the same thing happens. Only a restart of the router helps.&#xD;&#xA;- I want the external HDD formatted in a file system that will allow me to use it everywhere I wish: on my Win10 PC, on my Macbook, and optionally on an old Linux / FreeBSD laptop. Plus, I want it recognized by the router of course. In a nutshell, I want the HDD to normally reside at home and be usable by the entire family through the router but I also want to be able to unhook it and carry it with me if the need calls for it. To that end, I was unable to find a router that can use a GPT-formatted exFAT external HDD. I am not against formatting it to HFS+ and use it on my PC through Paragon's HFS+ paid software, if that is what it takes to find a compliant router.&#xD;&#xA;- RJ-45 compliant. I don't care about optics or SIM slots.&#xD;&#xA;- Print server. That however might not be critical because TP-Link already has a program that I installed on my Windows 10 PC and it almost immediately found my printer. I'm guessing the lack of print server can be alleviated with similar means on other brands, but do correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not a deal breaker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5Ghz network.&#xD;&#xA;- OpenWRT / DD-WRT / Tomato compatibility. Not very fussed about that however; I tried using DD-WRT on my WDR4300 but after being unable to set up a guest network even after following the officially documented ways of doing it and even though I repeated the process probably 5 times (accompanied by restarts), I finally gave up and was left scratching my head on why do the open-source tools make it so hard to setup such basic features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind sinking up to $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas for devices, anyone? Pointers to information aggregators or additional search query recommendations are welcome as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="b28593b3-329a-42f6-88c1-1ba9dfc721bf" CreationDate="2016-11-02T21:27:35.330" UserId="476" Text="I would like a recommendation on a thin client laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA; - 1280 x 720 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 720p60fps&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 2&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - at least 60GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - 4hr general usage battery life&#xD;&#xA; - USB&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 1920 x 1080 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 1080p60fps&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 1&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Speaker &amp; microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for gaming and surfing the web with another desktop on the same LAN for it to control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="b28593b3-329a-42f6-88c1-1ba9dfc721bf" CreationDate="2016-11-02T21:27:35.330" UserId="476" Text="Thin Client Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="b28593b3-329a-42f6-88c1-1ba9dfc721bf" CreationDate="2016-11-02T21:27:35.330" UserId="476" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;thin-client&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17641" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="8bb636a4-901b-4299-8c9e-7812e3126557" CreationDate="2016-11-03T00:14:29.263" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I would like a recommendation on a thin client laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA; - 1280 x 720 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 720p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 2&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - at least 60GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - 4hr general usage battery life&#xD;&#xA; - USB&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 1920 x 1080 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 1080p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 1&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Speaker &amp; microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for gaming and surfing the web with another desktop on the same LAN for it to control." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6129" RevisionGUID="2744e96f-2d32-4a0f-bac5-ce32d8ae7768" CreationDate="2016-11-03T00:25:35.963" UserId="8" Text="NZKshatriya is correct - the price you're asking for is a little unrealistic for the system you want. However, if we go looking outside that range a way, there are plenty of systems you could have instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Acer Aspire series has served me well, in particular the **[Acer Aspire E1-570](http://www.acer.com/ac/en/SI/content/model/NX.MGUEX.001)**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 1366x768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA; - (+) Will happily decode 1080/60 video&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 1 Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - (-) Only supports 802.11 b/g/n WiFi; not ac.&#xD;&#xA; - (0) Definitely under 2&quot; thick; not sure about 1&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - (0) 500 GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 5+ hours battery life&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 2x USB 2.0 and 1x USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 15.6&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - (+) Speaker and microphone; microphone range isn't great but quality is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for around £300, which would have been $450 then but is $369 now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6129" RevisionGUID="6f5efe6c-d7aa-410f-b150-4ab30bc00bae" CreationDate="2016-11-03T00:38:58.480" UserId="8" Comment="added 79 characters in body" Text="NZKshatriya is correct - the price you're asking for is a little unrealistic for the system you want. However, if we go looking outside that range a way, there are plenty of systems you could have instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Acer Aspire series has served me well, in particular the **[Acer Aspire E1-570](http://www.acer.com/ac/en/SI/content/model/NX.MGUEX.001)**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 1366x768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA; - (+) Will happily decode 1080/60 video&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 1 Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - (-) Only supports 802.11 b/g/n WiFi; not ac.&#xD;&#xA; - (0) Definitely under 2&quot; thick; not sure about 1&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - (0) 500 GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 5+ hours battery life&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 2x USB 2.0 and 1x USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA; - (+) 15.6&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - (+) Speaker and microphone; microphone range isn't great but quality is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB RAM, upgradable to 8 GB (DDR3)&#xD;&#xA; - SD card reader built-in&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought mine for around £300, which would have been $450 then but is $369 now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6130" RevisionGUID="bd748621-c19c-420e-adcd-7b2cd381a547" CreationDate="2016-11-03T01:15:11.080" UserId="4523" Text="If you have not upgraded:&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the [EVGA GeForce GTX 950](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487159&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    2GB 128-Bit GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;    Core Clock 1203 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Boost Clock 1405 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    1 x Dual-link DVI-I 1 x HDMI 2.0 3 x DisplayPort 1.2&#xD;&#xA;    768 CUDA Cores 768 Stream Processors&#xD;&#xA;    PCI Express 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17662" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="da42675a-5657-4b5e-8f6b-910e501191ac" CreationDate="2016-11-03T11:39:24.823" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17663" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6134" RevisionGUID="d0c9d077-6f19-4b5c-a4d4-db970509337f" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:25:24.650" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/259812/macbook-pro-2016-for-ios-development" />
  <row Id="17664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6134" RevisionGUID="a7e77ea7-1621-43b5-bd95-d2071582a192" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:01:48.410" UserId="4839" UserDisplayName="Yousif Al-Raheem" Text="I'm looking to buy a new Macbook to do Web, Android, and iOS development. I now from experience that web development is not an issue as I'm currently developing on my 2011 Macbook Air with 4GB RAM. I tried XCode and Android Studio and the experience was terrible with all the lags especially when I run the emulator. My budget can go up to 1800$, with that I can buy one of the following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.0GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1500$&#xD;&#xA; 2. Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.0GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 16GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1700$&#xD;&#xA; 3. Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i7 6th Gen (2.4GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$&#xD;&#xA; 4. Macbook Pro / with TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.9GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 2133MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$&#xD;&#xA; 5. Macbook Pro 2015 / Intel Dual-core i7 5th Gen (3.1GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 16GB RAM 1866MHz / 128 SSD - At 1800$&#xD;&#xA; 6. Macbook Air 2015 / Intel Dual-core i7 5th Gen (2.2GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz/ 128 SSD - At 1350$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things to consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not looking for the best of these options, I want a computer that can perform with minimum hiccups.&#xD;&#xA; - I only want a portable machine due to my line of work that's why I only picked Macbooks.&#xD;&#xA; - The prices displayed are final, there will be no taxes added as I'm buying it using student pricing program.&#xD;&#xA; - I don't work with external monitor nor do I need SD card, I will only buy a USB-A dongle if I have to.&#xD;&#xA; - This computer is supposed to last at least 3 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help me decide which one to buy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6134" RevisionGUID="a7e77ea7-1621-43b5-bd95-d2071582a192" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:01:48.410" UserId="4839" UserDisplayName="Yousif Al-Raheem" Text="Macbook Pro 2016 for iOS Development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6134" RevisionGUID="a7e77ea7-1621-43b5-bd95-d2071582a192" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:01:48.410" UserId="4839" UserDisplayName="Yousif Al-Raheem" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6116" RevisionGUID="089424ea-415e-48eb-8ec8-f86b4fa381a1" CreationDate="2016-11-03T15:15:51.137" UserId="4523" Comment="Edited to give recommendations for different interfaces, as none was specified, and to reflect new information" Text="Edit: 11/03/2016&#xD;&#xA;As interface and capacity are not detailed as of yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For m.2 PCIe:&#xD;&#xA;[SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 512GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147467&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=m.2_PCIe-_-20-147-467-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Max Sequential Read Up to 2500 MBps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  Max Sequential Write:  Up to 1500 MBps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  4KB Random Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 300,000 IOPS (4KB, QD32)&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 12,000 IOPS (4KB, QD1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  4KB Random Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 110,000 IOPS (4KB, QD32)&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 43,000 IOPS (4KB, QD1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  MTBF 1,500,000 hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For m.2 SATA III:&#xD;&#xA;[SAMSUNG 850 EVO M.2 500GB SATA III](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168201473990)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Max Sequential Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 540 MBps&#xD;&#xA;2.  Max Sequential Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 500 MBps&#xD;&#xA;3.  4KB Random Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 97,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;4.  4KB Random Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 89,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For 2.5&quot; SATA III:&#xD;&#xA;As has been mentioned already:&#xD;&#xA;[SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5 256GB](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147360&amp;cm_re=MZ-7KE256BW-_-20-147-360-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Max Sequential Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 550 MBps&#xD;&#xA;2.  Max Sequential Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 520 MBps&#xD;&#xA;3.  4KB Random Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 100,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;4.  4KB Random Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 90,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;5.  MTBF&#xD;&#xA;    2,000,000 hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For PCIe x16 with no restraints on budget:&#xD;&#xA;[Intel 910 Series Solid-State Drive 800 GB](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3ER1842500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Max Sequential Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 2 GB/s&#xD;&#xA;2.  Max Sequential Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 1 GB/s&#xD;&#xA;3.  4KB Random Read&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 180,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;4.  4KB Random Write&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 75,000 IOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17668" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="383f96a4-36b1-46b9-bb46-93e21ff47380" CreationDate="2016-11-03T20:45:12.823" UserId="476" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I would like a recommendation on a thin client laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA; - 1280 x 720 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 720p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 2&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - at least 60GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - 4hr general usage battery life&#xD;&#xA; - USB&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 1920 x 1080 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 1080p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 1&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Speaker &amp; microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for gaming and surfing the web on another desktop on the same LAN for it to control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop will **not** be used for gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6127" RevisionGUID="fa8a0614-1b54-43ee-8843-66d67bc4a2f2" CreationDate="2016-11-03T23:52:15.403" UserId="476" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I would like a recommendation on a thin client laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Under $150&#xD;&#xA; - 1280 x 720 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 720p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 2&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - at least 60GB hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - 4hr general usage battery life&#xD;&#xA; - USB&#xD;&#xA; - 13.3&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 1920 x 1080 screen&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of decoding video at 1080p@60fps&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 1&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Speaker &amp; microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used for streaming games from another desktop and surfing the web.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **laptop** will surf the web.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **desktop** will play games and **stream** them to the **laptop**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17673" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5546" RevisionGUID="92e6da22-a308-4f26-9b84-9612c365b74f" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:07:18.897" UserId="476" Comment="Grammar, clarification." Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specifications. I have done a lot of searching but can't find anything that meets my requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm willing to spend $3k, but after that becomes questionable and I have an absolute limit of $5k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need something light as I carry it around a lot but I need something powerful as I run VMs and develop various memory hungry Java server processes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like the answer might be found via a manufacturer that enables you to customise a model that doesn't quite meet the specs in its default configuration but will after maxing out all the configuration options. However, that makes searching for it with a search engine difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Minimum Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Skylake CPU i5/i7 (main concern is battery life though)&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 4lbs&#xD;&#xA; - 6+ hours battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Good to have but not essential**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ USB3 ports&#xD;&#xA; - VGA output&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - Built in webcam&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Extra Dealbreakers**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must run Windows OS - cannot be a Mac&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a lot of keyboard shortcuts so the keyboard layout is important to me. The following are dealbreakers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else) &#xD;&#xA; - Keyboards that don't have separate Home/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See this image of the LG Gram 14 that requires you to press Fn and an arrow key for these buttons&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Already Rejected**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These caught my eye but I rejected them for the reasons below,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[LG Gram 14][2] - Only 8GB RAM and annoying keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu U904][3] - Only 10GB RAM and Haswell processor. Very light and cool looking though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/t3ZEg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lg.com/us/laptops/lg-gram-14Z950-A.AA3GU1-ultra-slim-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.fujitsu.com/fts/products/computing/pc/notebooks/lifebook-u904-red-edition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17674" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6130" RevisionGUID="85644c77-aa74-4096-8f54-c2c468e28a02" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:17:11.007" UserId="4523" Comment="deleted 26 characters in body" Text="If you have not upgraded:&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the [MSI GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137047&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    3GB 192-Bit GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;    Core Clock 1544 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Boost Clock 1759 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    1 x DL-DVI-D 1 x HDMI 2.0 1 x DisplayPort 1.4&#xD;&#xA;    PCI Express 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17679" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="fbc1b7a2-376c-4e67-8861-94fb88256a2a" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:49:14.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6130" RevisionGUID="02059e73-066e-4754-ae08-d04bab73b53a" CreationDate="2016-11-04T01:38:50.307" UserId="4523" Comment="added 418 characters in body" Text="If you have not upgraded:&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the [MSI GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137047&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    3GB 192-Bit GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;    Core Clock 1544 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Boost Clock 1759 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    1 x DL-DVI-D 1 x HDMI 2.0 1 x DisplayPort 1.4&#xD;&#xA;    PCI Express 3.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Futuremark stats for both cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  [HD 7850](http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu/AMD+Radeon+HD+7850/review)&#xD;&#xA;2.  [GeForce GTX 1060-3GB](http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu/NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1060-3GB/review)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Anandtec review of the GTX 1060-3GB](http://www.anandtech.com/show/10580/nvidia-releases-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note, the anandtec review shows the EVGA card, but the MSI is the same chip." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17686" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6126" RevisionGUID="e76e3ebd-a28a-4cbd-84f8-c779284e14a6" CreationDate="2016-11-04T12:54:39.780" UserId="57" Comment="Adds in samples" Text="I've had great success with a [Dymo Labelwriter 450 Turbo][1]. I use it to generate shipping labels, inventory labels, and name tags (with pictures) most often. I've used it for prototyping a few things as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Labelwriter 450 turbo][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 450 supports a [large variety of label sizes][3]. I am not seeing one that is exactly 2.5x3.5, but there are a number that are close and are both adhesive and nonadhesive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 450 comes with software from Dymo that is used to create labels. It's not difficult to work with. The software does make generating certain things - like barcodes (but it doesn't sound like you need those) - very easy. You just need to tie a barcode field to a label field and the barcode generates for you automatically. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Printing a label can be done programmatically too. To do this, you need to create the label template. Then utilize the [SDK][4] to pass data to your label. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can buy the printer from Dymo directly for less than $150. Labels vary in price depending on the size and type of labels you want. I recommend that you look through the label sizes and make sure you can find a size you are happy with, before going with the printer. Assuming that you can find the label size that you want, this is an excellent label maker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An image of the label printed was requested. First, this is the label that was created as seen in the label software. This has two images - one a picture of the image above, the other a picture of the up/down vote arrows with a circle and arrow in red. There is a label (`Tracking Num:`), there is a field with a value (`1234567890`) and there are two barcodes. The standard UPC barcode (code 39) is auto-generated from the field with a value. The other is a QR code with a link back to this answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Created Label][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When printed, it looks like the example below. Notice that it is in black and white - so we miss out on the amazing red I added to the label. It is also a bit grainy, but I believe this is to be expected. It's not a picture printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Printed output][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dymo.com/en-US/labelwriter-450-turbo-label-printer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SR1i6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dymo.com/SearchDisplay?pageSize=12&amp;pageView=list&amp;catalogId=10551&amp;facet=ads_f14001_ntk_cs%3A%22labelwriter-450-turbo%22&amp;beginIndex=0&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=20051&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.dymo.com/en-US/online-support-sdk&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvjkH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMU3D.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="54f95a75-38d5-4e8b-9a79-ce9f905130e8" CreationDate="2016-11-04T16:17:19.910" UserId="4843" Text="I am looking to buy a laptop for 3D designing, surface modelling, and finite element analysis. I will be using softwares like Unigraphics, Rhino 3D, ANSYS, etc.&#xA;&#xA;Requirements:&#xA;&#xA;Processor: Intel Skylake i5 dual core or better&#xA;&#xA;RAM: 8GB min. 16 GB preferable. &#xA;&#xA;Memory: HDD: 1TB or better or &#xA;                SSD: 256GB or better&#xA;&#xA;Battery Life: At least 6 hours on designing usage. &#xA;&#xA;OS: Any*&#xA;&#xA;Screen Size isn't a constraint. All the basic functionalities of a modern laptop (wifi, usb, Bluetooth, etc.) are obvious. &#xA;&#xA;As for cost, the cheaper the better. I do not wish to compromise on quality though.&#xA;&#xA;*I do not mind using BootCamp on a MacBook if the MacBook fits the above criteria. &#xA;&#xA;Can you suggest me a list of laptops that could fit the above requirements? Also, could you tell me which one would you recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17688" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="54f95a75-38d5-4e8b-9a79-ce9f905130e8" CreationDate="2016-11-04T16:17:19.910" UserId="4843" Text="Laptop for 3D Design and Modelling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17689" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="54f95a75-38d5-4e8b-9a79-ce9f905130e8" CreationDate="2016-11-04T16:17:19.910" UserId="4843" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="40605c7a-4c6e-4f1e-ad92-bb0ea78c0780" CreationDate="2016-11-04T17:08:49.793" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 113 characters in body" Text="I am looking to buy a laptop for 3D designing, surface modelling, and finite element analysis. I will be using softwares like Unigraphics, Rhino 3D, ANSYS, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel Skylake i5 dual core or better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB min. 16 GB preferable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: HDD: 1TB or better or &#xD;&#xA;                SSD: 256GB or better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery Life: At least 6 hours on designing usage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS: Any*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen Size isn't a constraint. All the basic functionalities of a modern laptop (wifi, usb, Bluetooth, etc.) are obvious. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for cost, the cheaper the better. I do not wish to compromise on quality though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I do not mind using BootCamp on a MacBook if the MacBook fits the above criteria. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6139" RevisionGUID="a3e6e6b4-2166-418c-9eb1-ff044c889b18" CreationDate="2016-11-04T17:40:27.687" UserId="4523" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to update this with new products: [4TB 5400RPM Seagate 2.5&quot;](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAEE4BY2454)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All for $193.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This drive offers the highest capacity for the form factor so far. While not as fast as a 7200RPM drive, if you are looking for mass storage, this will do well. Consider a small external enclosure with multiples of these for a media server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the original question does not state what purpose the drive is needed for, I feel this drive would be great for general use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There Art, I fixed it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6139" RevisionGUID="47615b83-4a2d-442f-abe8-d568cfc52b30" CreationDate="2016-11-04T17:41:37.670" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 32 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;Just to update this with new products: [4TB 5400RPM Seagate 2.5&quot;](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAEE4BY2454)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All for $193.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This drive offers the highest capacity for the form factor so far. While not as fast as a 7200RPM drive, if you are looking for mass storage, this will do well. Consider a small external enclosure with multiples of these for a media server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the original question does not state what purpose the drive is needed for, I feel this drive would be great for general use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6140" RevisionGUID="aeaf048c-5451-42b4-a2bd-d43f802f7736" CreationDate="2016-11-04T18:20:03.247" UserId="4523" Text="I would recommend the [Acer VN7-592G-77LB](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315130&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 960M 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;    16 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;    15.6&quot; IPS FHD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;    15.35&quot; x 10.35&quot; x 0.90&quot; 5.07 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home 64-Bit&#xD;&#xA;    LED-backlit IPS display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cannot find any stats on battery life however." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="d0b6e1b4-78f9-4f2e-ab05-7d0a8a4ac360" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:15:15.953" UserId="4848" Text="I bought this RX 470 recently for a good price, and now for Black Friday I am buying something that I intend not to bottleneck my GPU.&#xD;&#xA;After browsing for a long time, I see many people recommending the i3 6100 going besides the RX 470. However, I often stream and use CPU rendering on my personal 3D projects. Therefore, I believe something with two cores would't be the perfect thing for streaming and rendering.&#xD;&#xA;Any other budget recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="d0b6e1b4-78f9-4f2e-ab05-7d0a8a4ac360" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:15:15.953" UserId="4848" Text="What CPU goes well for my RX 470 aside from the i3 6100?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="d0b6e1b4-78f9-4f2e-ab05-7d0a8a4ac360" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:15:15.953" UserId="4848" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17699" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="7c22ab4b-c578-4bf0-a9f6-885add91db1b" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:30:17.737" UserId="4848" Comment="added 111 characters in body; edited title" Text="I bought this RX 470 recently for a good price, and now for Black Friday I am buying something that I intend not to bottleneck my GPU for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After browsing for a long time, I see many people recommending the i3 6100 going besides the RX 470. However, I often stream and use CPU rendering on my personal 3D projects. Therefore, I believe something with two cores would't be the perfect thing for streaming and rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any other budget recommendations that would do a good performance on both rendering and gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17700" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="7c22ab4b-c578-4bf0-a9f6-885add91db1b" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:30:17.737" UserId="4848" Comment="added 111 characters in body; edited title" Text="What CPU goes well for rendering / gaming on a RX 470 aside from the i3 6100?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6144" RevisionGUID="649eeac5-5a6e-4b7a-90e7-72af998005e6" CreationDate="2016-11-05T07:19:48.203" UserId="415" Text="I am looking for a usb sound card for my laptop. I mainly use it for my headset so it must have a mic in and a headset out. I also would like to have a line-in port on it to record with. I don't need a card with surround sound output as I only use it with my headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The card needs to support both windows 10 and linux.&#xD;&#xA;Ideally under $50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17709" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6144" RevisionGUID="649eeac5-5a6e-4b7a-90e7-72af998005e6" CreationDate="2016-11-05T07:19:48.203" UserId="415" Text="USB sound card with line in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17710" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6144" RevisionGUID="649eeac5-5a6e-4b7a-90e7-72af998005e6" CreationDate="2016-11-05T07:19:48.203" UserId="415" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17711" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6144" RevisionGUID="bc513f80-c59f-4bb6-bdde-b02174a2b224" CreationDate="2016-11-05T07:34:53.807" UserId="415" Comment="additional info" Text="I am looking for a usb sound card for my laptop. I mainly use it for my headset so it must have a mic in and a headset out. I also would like to have a line-in port on it to record with. I don't need a card with surround sound output as I only use it with my headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The card needs to support both windows 10 and linux.&#xD;&#xA;Ideally under $50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;something like a behringer UCA202:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI&gt;&#xD;&#xA;would be perfect if it also had a 3.5mm mic input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17717" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="4230" RevisionGUID="903da720-1073-4c1b-adc0-af8cf4295075" CreationDate="2016-11-05T13:49:50.157" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17718" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1885" RevisionGUID="22bddd70-7587-4d3f-85c8-5d83dd8b7404" CreationDate="2016-11-05T13:51:54.620" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17723" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6022" RevisionGUID="8c6911e3-3ee1-4486-be0a-84491d4c792f" CreationDate="2016-11-05T17:52:51.240" UserId="2086" Comment="added 375 characters in body" Text="I am thinking of buying powerline wifi extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want those that have only 1 transmiter, will be located near my main modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a few receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to avoid &quot;pairs&quot;. The wifi would get signal from one and several&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last requirement is wifi support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At least on the receivers one. All receivers must be able to communicate via wifi. That way I effectively have mini routers in each room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard to say price range. I would say mid range. Common. Normal. I don't need super high end. Cost effective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several I want to know them all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me clarify what I want&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Say I want to power 10 rooms that are all far away from my main router. Does that mean I would need 20 devices? I like the one where I have 11 devices. One transmiter near my main router, and 10 receivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This powerline adaptor is like wifi router right? Except that their signals travel through powerline instead of through air.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I weren't using powerline adaptor, if I use a bunch of wifi repeater, I would only need 10 devices. Can I do this with only 10 or 11 power line adapters?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	&#xD;&#xA;$100-$200 dollar per room. I don't expect that much though. I need something cost effective. So if a $20 stuff will work, you need to give me a good reason why I should pay $150. Not exactly cheap but not spendthrift either – Jim Thio 1 min ago   edit  &#xD;&#xA;   	 &#xD;&#xA;	&#xD;&#xA;8 nodes should be enough. So one node near my main wifi. The other nodes should be on various rooms. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6148" RevisionGUID="2fdadd6c-c097-44a3-a7ac-5a54b712b485" CreationDate="2016-11-05T21:48:21.707" UserId="40" Text="Razer's [&quot;ultra-low-profile mechanical keyboard&quot;](http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-mechanical-keyboard-case-ipad-pro) (I don't see any model name) is the mechanical keyboard with the shortest travel distance I am aware of (without having to add o-rings). Unfortunately, the actuation force is high: 65g to the actuation point, 70g to bottom. It was announced on [Thursday, 14 July 2016](http://www.razerzone.com/press/detail/press-releases/razer-releases-worlds-first-ultra-low-profile-mechanical-keyboard-switch). The announced price is U.S. $169.99 / EU €189.99.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRTjv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/UdhCQ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9cEu.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYOm1.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6149" RevisionGUID="93ecb56b-f1ee-4c61-8771-195895737d93" CreationDate="2016-11-05T23:30:29.417" UserId="4855" Text="I'm looking for a powerful non-gaming laptop; i will mostly work with CAD and finite element analysis software (ANSYS) and some occasional gaming (like Starcraft 2). I also inted to dual boot (Ubuntu/Windows).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't like gaming laptops, mostly because they're very expensive and i don't like their colorful-aggresive design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 17.3'' screen (minimum FHD)&#xD;&#xA;- 2 tb HDD&#xD;&#xA;- Core i7 processor&#xD;&#xA;- At least 8 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really care for the weight or the battery duration, also not interested in touch screen; i want it to be durable and reliable and with a sleek design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the only laptop meets most of my requierements is the [MSI PE70][1]; altough it is a bit expensive i like it. However i ask because i want to know if there is a better option in the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Laptop/PE70-2QE.html#hero-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6149" RevisionGUID="93ecb56b-f1ee-4c61-8771-195895737d93" CreationDate="2016-11-05T23:30:29.417" UserId="4855" Text="Powerful non-gaming 17.3'' laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6149" RevisionGUID="93ecb56b-f1ee-4c61-8771-195895737d93" CreationDate="2016-11-05T23:30:29.417" UserId="4855" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17732" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6150" RevisionGUID="623da282-0a1d-4817-b0ce-75c634fd4c61" CreationDate="2016-11-06T02:01:54.507" UserId="4523" Text="As far as something not too garish, and can be configured to meet your specifications, I would suggest the [Sager NP3673](https://www.sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP3673.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  6th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-6700HQ Processor&#xD;&#xA;2.  17.3&quot; Full HD Matte Display&#xD;&#xA;3.  Intel HD Graphics 530&#xD;&#xA;4.  8GB DDR4 at 2400MHz *upgradable*&#xD;&#xA;5.  1TB 7200rpm SATA2 HDD *upgradable*&#xD;&#xA;6.  8X DVD±R/RW/4X +DL Super-Multi Drive&#xD;&#xA;7.  Intel Wireless-AC 3165 + Bluetooth *upgradable*&#xD;&#xA;8.  White-LED illuminated keyboard&#xD;&#xA;9.  Windows® 10 Home 64-Bit Edition *upgradable*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a lot of customization options through Sager's online store, such as options for an m.2 drive for your OS or extra storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17734" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6151" RevisionGUID="b3e91c5d-6f8f-4fdd-86f6-0dcd48eb58ab" CreationDate="2016-11-06T03:19:39.963" UserId="1055" Text="I'm looking for a router that could wirelessly bridge with my main wireless router and still work as a wireless access point, just like the Wireless #2 router is doing in the image below:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a router in the market that could do that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some research, I found this router [AC3200](https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC3200/) but I'm not sure if it would be able to do what I described above. I assume it could be possible since it has 3 wifi interfaces, but not sure if I could setup it that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEKq0.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17735" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6151" RevisionGUID="b3e91c5d-6f8f-4fdd-86f6-0dcd48eb58ab" CreationDate="2016-11-06T03:19:39.963" UserId="1055" Text="Wireless bridge with AP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17736" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6151" RevisionGUID="b3e91c5d-6f8f-4fdd-86f6-0dcd48eb58ab" CreationDate="2016-11-06T03:19:39.963" UserId="1055" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17742" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="794c75ab-925f-4b43-a989-c6c3815df2ad" CreationDate="2016-11-06T12:48:33.340" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6153" RevisionGUID="89f124ee-1019-48f9-9630-ef1a85f06cbc" CreationDate="2016-11-06T14:04:35.570" UserId="4858" Text="I've been doing a lot of research but I can't seem to find an answer to this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plethora of laptops exist that do work well with Linux (I'm using Ubuntu 16.04, but if an answer is available for other Linuxes, it's fine); that I know. Some even include a builtin 4k monitor that works fine.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What seems very hard to get reliable information about is: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which current (November 2016) portable laptop (max 14 inches, max 2.5kg/5.5lbs weight) can support an external 4k (3840x2160) displayport 1.2 monitor @60Hz, either directly or via an adapter/dock which is confirmed to work reliably?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There seem to be an issue with modern laptops with USB-C-to-DP adapters or docks that aren't properly recognized by Ubuntu, and I'd like an hassle-free solution - in many forums about Dell XPS/Latitude/Inspiron I've seen people saying that sometimes they were able to work it out with custom kernels or arcane configurations, but I use my laptop for work and I don't want to waste too much time at configuring my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PLEASE NOTE:** I expect exact make and models that **can be actually bought today in Europe**. Don't suggest me the specs, I already know what I'd like, but it seems that the requirements are conflicting enough that I cannot find a brand new laptop that has all of them at the same time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17744" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6153" RevisionGUID="89f124ee-1019-48f9-9630-ef1a85f06cbc" CreationDate="2016-11-06T14:04:35.570" UserId="4858" Text="Which laptop for Linux with 4k external monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17745" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6153" RevisionGUID="89f124ee-1019-48f9-9630-ef1a85f06cbc" CreationDate="2016-11-06T14:04:35.570" UserId="4858" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6155" RevisionGUID="c7d8fae7-9d97-44d0-a5c3-e386d6115ab0" CreationDate="2016-11-06T16:51:09.207" UserId="4859" Text="I am going to be buying a new computer but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Computer Use: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Office suite:Outlook, Word, Excel&#xD;&#xA;+ Browsing: firefox, chrome standard but also WordPress development&#xD;&#xA;+ Adobe: Illustrator, Photoshop (no complex 3D work), Brackets (code editor), occasional minor video editing&#xD;&#xA;+ Coding and development &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure if the £100-150 difference in price makes a massive difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System 1 (preferred choice):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP Pavilion 23-q105n / £749&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Graphics: Intel® HD Graphics 530&#xD;&#xA;+ Hard Drive Storage: 1 Tb&#xD;&#xA;+ Processor: Intel® Core™ i5&#xD;&#xA;+ RAM Memory: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System 2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP Pavilion 27-n230na / £799&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Intel® Core™ i3&#xD;&#xA;+ 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;+ 2TB Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;+ 27 inch screen&#xD;&#xA;+ AMD4GB Dedicated Graphics R7-A360&#xD;&#xA;+ Graphics: Discrete: AMD Radeon R7 A (i am not sure if this is the same as the above bullet point)&#xD;&#xA;+ Hard Drive Storage: 2 Tb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System 3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo AIO 910 I  / £899&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Intel® Core™ i5 Processor&#xD;&#xA;+ 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;+ 1TB Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;+ Nvidia 2GB dedicated graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is really a case of whether any of the graphic cards or i3 to i5 upgrade would make any difference to the type of the work that I do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are highly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17750" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6155" RevisionGUID="c7d8fae7-9d97-44d0-a5c3-e386d6115ab0" CreationDate="2016-11-06T16:51:09.207" UserId="4859" Text="Which computer to buy out of the following 3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17751" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6155" RevisionGUID="c7d8fae7-9d97-44d0-a5c3-e386d6115ab0" CreationDate="2016-11-06T16:51:09.207" UserId="4859" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="0ceb0f43-3ab9-4491-b00d-21b9aa0ef59b" CreationDate="2016-11-06T23:02:30.113" UserId="1393" Text="I'm based in London.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can have two independent fibers delivered to my door *(roughly £30 per month each)* + unlimited 4G LTE *(£25 per month)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to find router that would **connect to 3 independent uplinks** and provide superior speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(normally a single fiber would be sufficient but due to &quot;engineering works&quot; speeds are    and I'm constantly thinking how to make them better)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't even know if this is possible. I assume my use case is not frequent for home users, business users must been doing it for ages..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="0ceb0f43-3ab9-4491-b00d-21b9aa0ef59b" CreationDate="2016-11-06T23:02:30.113" UserId="1393" Text="Router that would connect to 2 ISPs and mobile hotspot to provide quality service?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="0ceb0f43-3ab9-4491-b00d-21b9aa0ef59b" CreationDate="2016-11-06T23:02:30.113" UserId="1393" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6160" RevisionGUID="7fbf942d-a3d8-41ed-abf6-fdf51b9a32c7" CreationDate="2016-11-07T02:08:04.790" UserId="476" Text="You've gotten a lot of terrible recommendations, so I thought I'd give my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First of all, I'm assuming you're **only** interested in upgrading your GPU and not other hardware components. If you are interested in upgrading, please leave a comment and I can update my answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All percentages are taken from [userbenchmark.com][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, for ~$500 you can get a couple of things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;nVidia&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**$600**: GTX 1080 - 6x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$400**: GTX 1070 - 4.5x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$200**: GTX 1060 - 3x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$220**: RX 480 - 3x better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation is the GTX 1070 if you're not interested in upgrading other parts of your computer. Otherwise, you should probably purchase a new motherboard and CPU and simply get a GTX 1060, which is still a major upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I especially recommend this as I suspect that in some games your limited CPU will severely bottleneck the ridiculously powerful GTX 1070.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the GTX 1060 will max out most games at ultra at 1920x1080p anyway, so unless you have a 144hz monitor or one of a resolution of 2560x1440p or higher there's not much point in purchasing a powerful GPU before you get all your other hardware up to date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://userbenchmark.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6161" RevisionGUID="73f80e02-de9a-492b-b326-f1a4b2d55245" CreationDate="2016-11-07T02:38:19.647" UserId="476" Text="You want a GTX 1060 laptop!? Ha! What a loser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What about a GTX **1070** laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Sager NP8153](https://www.sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP8153.html)**:&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;**Specs:**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7-6700HQ (much more powerful than Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR4 (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Disk: 1TB (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: 802.11ac WiFi and Bluetooth (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX 1070 (much, much more powerful than Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard (Alienware has none)&#xD;&#xA; - Gears of War 4 - free! (Alienware has none)&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: 15.6&quot; 1920x1080p IPS G-Sync (Alienware doesn't have G-Sync)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Conclusion&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Never used a Sager laptop before, not associated with them, but looked up a couple of random yet reputable brands to come across this. It's better than Alienware, so buy it instead?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17766" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6161" RevisionGUID="388e6a60-4e97-44c9-bcfe-863ab1ba5d05" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:42:01.533" UserId="155" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17767" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6161" RevisionGUID="132f9502-247d-40cd-8a4a-0a85a080f2af" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:42:47.153" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6161" RevisionGUID="efd6d3f5-6f98-4593-bccb-ea31a5c7990b" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:43:37.510" UserId="155" Comment="removed harassing statement" Text="What about a GTX **1070** laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Sager NP8153](https://www.sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP8153.html)**:&#xD;&#xA;=&#xD;&#xA;**Specs:**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7-6700HQ (much more powerful than Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 8GB DDR4 (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Disk: 1TB (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: 802.11ac WiFi and Bluetooth (same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX 1070 (much, much more powerful than Alienware)&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit keyboard (Alienware has none)&#xD;&#xA; - Gears of War 4 - free! (Alienware has none)&#xD;&#xA; - Monitor: 15.6&quot; 1920x1080p IPS G-Sync (Alienware doesn't have G-Sync)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Conclusion&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Never used a Sager laptop before, not associated with them, but looked up a couple of random yet reputable brands to come across this. It's better than Alienware, so buy it instead?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6160" RevisionGUID="94e873f0-8d9f-428f-8073-a06663b971bd" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:45:59.470" UserId="155" Comment="removed unnecessary statement" Text="First of all, I'm assuming you're **only** interested in upgrading your GPU and not other hardware components. If you are interested in upgrading, please leave a comment and I can update my answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All percentages are taken from [userbenchmark.com][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, for ~$500 you can get a couple of things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;nVidia&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**$600**: GTX 1080 - 6x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$400**: GTX 1070 - 4.5x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$200**: GTX 1060 - 3x better than your current GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$220**: RX 480 - 3x better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation is the GTX 1070 if you're not interested in upgrading other parts of your computer. Otherwise, you should probably purchase a new motherboard and CPU and simply get a GTX 1060, which is still a major upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I especially recommend this as I suspect that in some games your limited CPU will severely bottleneck the ridiculously powerful GTX 1070.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the GTX 1060 will max out most games at ultra at 1920x1080p anyway, so unless you have a 144hz monitor or one of a resolution of 2560x1440p or higher there's not much point in purchasing a powerful GPU before you get all your other hardware up to date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://userbenchmark.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="9a5f2291-5143-421b-adf6-8b1dc83aaf88" CreationDate="2016-11-07T15:43:28.747" UserId="4865" Text="Are there any USB 3.1 Gen 2 hubs in existence? There seem to be lots of options that are USB-C on the computer-end, but provide only USB 3.0 ports for the peripherals. Do I really have to buy an expensive Thunderbolt dock if all I want are a few USB 3.0 and two USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it would also have a HDMI (or DisplayPort) connection and power pass through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found among others the following products (none of which has USB 3.1 Gen 2 output)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - [Satechi Slim](https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Charging/dp/B01J4BO0X8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478014705&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=satechi%2Bmulti-port&amp;th=1)&#xD;&#xA;  - [HyperDrive GN22B](https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-GN22B-GRAY-Type-C-Support-Space/dp/B01JQOSP84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478025089&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=4k+hdmi+hyperdrive)&#xD;&#xA;  - [HooToo UC001B](http://www.hootoo.com/ht-uc001-usb-type-c-hub-charging-hdmi-apple-pd.html)&#xD;&#xA;  - [Sandberg](https://www.digitec.ch/de/s1/product/sandberg-usb-c-dock-3ports-usb-hub-5747671?tagIds=77-530)&#xD;&#xA;  - [Arc Hub](http://www.bourgedesign.com)&#xD;&#xA;  - [nonda](https://www.nonda.co/products/usb-c-hub-for-apple-new-macbook-12-plus) (while not shipping yet, at least it has USB-C outputs... doesn't specify if 3.1 Gen 2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17780" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="9a5f2291-5143-421b-adf6-8b1dc83aaf88" CreationDate="2016-11-07T15:43:28.747" UserId="4865" Text="USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub for 2016 MacBook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17781" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="9a5f2291-5143-421b-adf6-8b1dc83aaf88" CreationDate="2016-11-07T15:43:28.747" UserId="4865" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6165" RevisionGUID="c2499b38-89b5-4059-95ed-42c39e253aa8" CreationDate="2016-11-07T16:22:12.500" UserId="273" Text="For a family member with quite a big head, I'm looking for a headphone to replace the one which is (kinda) broken. Naturally I'm looking for a replacement which will do better, so I'm asking here for recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Object searched: **Headphone**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mandatory requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.5mm jack input&#xD;&#xA; - Must be closed design&#xD;&#xA; - Impedance must be between 40 and 80 Ohm&#xD;&#xA; - Cable must either be removable from the actual headphone or be at least 1.5&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to accomodate the following &quot;head specs&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;  - (Full) Ear diameter: 8cm (from bottom to top of the ear)&#xD;&#xA;  - Head diameter: 15cm (from ear-to-ear)&#xD;&#xA;  - Height: 13cm (from mid of ear, straight ob the top of the head)&#xD;&#xA;  - Perimeter length (?): 37cm (from the middle of the ear over the top of the head to the other ear)&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be less than 150€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17783" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6165" RevisionGUID="c2499b38-89b5-4059-95ed-42c39e253aa8" CreationDate="2016-11-07T16:22:12.500" UserId="273" Text="Headphones for big head?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17784" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6165" RevisionGUID="c2499b38-89b5-4059-95ed-42c39e253aa8" CreationDate="2016-11-07T16:22:12.500" UserId="273" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17785" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6165" RevisionGUID="69295cf2-cc37-4c28-90c7-57119bf587c5" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:50:58.837" UserId="273" Comment="accidently removed unit with cable length" Text="For a family member with quite a big head, I'm looking for a headphone to replace the one which is (kinda) broken. Naturally I'm looking for a replacement which will do better, so I'm asking here for recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Object searched: **Headphone**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mandatory requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.5mm jack input&#xD;&#xA; - Must be closed design&#xD;&#xA; - Impedance must be between 40 and 80 Ohm&#xD;&#xA; - Cable must either be removable from the actual headphone or be at least 1.5m&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to accomodate the following &quot;head specs&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;  - (Full) Ear diameter: 8cm (from bottom to top of the ear)&#xD;&#xA;  - Head diameter: 15cm (from ear-to-ear)&#xD;&#xA;  - Height: 13cm (from mid of ear, straight ob the top of the head)&#xD;&#xA;  - Perimeter length (?): 37cm (from the middle of the ear over the top of the head to the other ear)&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be less than 150€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="cd6a0f58-bb28-41c7-8881-4cb152a047e5" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:52:40.850" UserId="3645" Text="I have a Nexus 5X, that I use to connect to my drone with the DJI Go app. I plug my phone into the controller through the USB C port.   &#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a case with a built in battery pack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has to support full data throughput&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be able to charge my phone at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about size, durability, color, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="cd6a0f58-bb28-41c7-8881-4cb152a047e5" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:52:40.850" UserId="3645" Text="Batter case with data throughput" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="cd6a0f58-bb28-41c7-8881-4cb152a047e5" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:52:40.850" UserId="3645" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="c4471bd9-ae62-40b8-bd30-842f886dd8f1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T18:57:02.297" UserId="3645" Comment="added 70 characters in body" Text="I have a Nexus 5X, that I use to connect to my drone with the DJI Go app. I plug my phone into the drone's remote controller through the USB C port on my phone. (Same concept as plugging into a computer)   &#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a case with a built in battery pack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has to support full data throughput&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be able to charge my phone at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about size, durability, color, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17794" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="c4471bd9-ae62-40b8-bd30-842f886dd8f1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T18:57:02.297" UserId="3645" Comment="added 70 characters in body" Text="Battery case with data throughput" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17795" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="f134cfdc-1f79-4488-a7e9-8f5343b45935" CreationDate="2016-11-07T19:06:04.870" UserId="3645" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I have a Nexus 5X, that I use to connect to my drone with the DJI Go app. I plug my phone into the drone's remote controller through the USB C port on my phone. (Same concept as plugging into a computer)   &#xD;&#xA;**I am looking for a case with a built in battery pack**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has to support full data throughput&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be able to charge my phone at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about size, durability, color, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17796" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="ed159eda-afc7-4e37-81a2-5ad8467bd2d5" CreationDate="2016-11-07T19:27:13.253" UserId="3645" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="I have a Nexus 5X, that I use to connect to my drone with the DJI Go app. I plug my phone into the drone's remote controller through the USB C port on my phone. (Same concept as plugging into a computer)   &#xD;&#xA;**I am looking for a case with a built in battery pack**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has to support full data throughput&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be able to charge my phone at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - I would prefer larger than 2,000mAh&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about size, durability, color, price etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6168" RevisionGUID="066b25bc-1ded-4182-b5fd-443a0e5d1971" CreationDate="2016-11-07T20:18:28.060" UserId="4504" Text="So what you are after is an internet bonding device. [Here is a great blog post about it, with video.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have to talk to your ISP to see about acquiring a bonding device, because they will be splitting all traffic to/from you house into 2 separate pipes. It's quite interesting how it works, and according to linus tech tips it works almost flawlessly when the ISP is involved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution above will work with the two fiber connections, not with the 3g/4g connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/660357-itel-bonded-internet/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17798" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6168" RevisionGUID="050c53e8-4818-46aa-8f91-77a80ca3f619" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:03:16.027" UserId="4504" Comment="added 180 characters in body" Text="So what you are after is an internet bonding device. [Here is a great blog post about it, with video.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have to talk to your ISP to see about acquiring a bonding device, because they will be splitting all traffic to/from you house into 2 separate pipes. It's quite interesting how it works, and according to linus tech tips it works almost flawlessly when the ISP is involved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution above will work with the two fiber connections, not with the 3g/4g connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are software solutions that will let you blend multiple speeds from multiple providers, however none of them will actually give you the speed increase you a looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/660357-itel-bonded-internet/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6169" RevisionGUID="fc29c66a-9e9c-4e32-8cbc-f70883b05860" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:21:22.770" UserId="4870" Text="My understanding is GPUs are more efficient for running neural nets, but someone recently suggested GPUs are only needed for the training phase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once trained, it's actually more performant to run them on CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this true?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17800" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6169" RevisionGUID="fc29c66a-9e9c-4e32-8cbc-f70883b05860" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:21:22.770" UserId="4870" Text="After the training phase, is it better to run neural networks on a GPU or CPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17801" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6169" RevisionGUID="fc29c66a-9e9c-4e32-8cbc-f70883b05860" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:21:22.770" UserId="4870" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17802" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6170" RevisionGUID="21c4cfcf-4a10-4799-8056-56dbdcea1630" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:32:49.193" UserId="2607" Text="First one, HP Pavilion 23-q105n, is out immediately. A desktop with an integrated graphics card? I looked at the Intel 530 graphics card and it gets 1 star. For doing photoshop work, that's terrible. Plus, you'll need more RAM across the board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu/Intel+HD+Graphics+530/review&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 27-n230na is looking better, but a regular HDD isn't going to cut it for you in the next few years. See if an SSD is an option for the machines and give specs on the speed rating for the processors. Especially with the HDD speed being so low at 5400RPM, this is a massive damper to pretty much everything you'll be doing on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a chart showing SSD vs 7200RPM drive. Your load time for Photoshop would be longer than this, probably be around 30 seconds...JUST for the program to load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.laptopmag.com/images/wp/purch-api/incontent/2012/03/geeks-geek-app-open.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, it appears the HP machines use mobile graphics processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also when using a computer for dev work, an SSD with 16GB+ of RAM (especially in a desktop) would greatly aid a reduction in code compiling and testing time which is the longest portion and most intensive memory functionality of coding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See if the Lenovo can be configured with an SSD and then you'll be all set with that machine for the next few years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17803" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6169" RevisionGUID="90a49c49-695c-4562-858a-458bc68007d2" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:34:16.497" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17804" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6168" RevisionGUID="661aa6f5-e87b-477b-9bfc-e5c1414d6544" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:35:43.400" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17805" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="605455e3-ea7e-441a-8726-17289aa6945a" CreationDate="2016-11-07T22:40:13.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6171" RevisionGUID="26c3ec90-1c59-4def-a824-bb3ddddab5f7" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:44:02.183" UserId="4871" Text="At work, in my lab, I am using a programmable USB hub from Acroname (https://acroname.com/store/s77-usbhub-2x4?sku=S77-USBHUB-2X4). If you have this attached to your server, you can reach through (remotely) and have the hub disable/enable any port on it's output. Pretty elegant and has saved me a bunch of time and space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think they have a USB 3.0 hub out now too. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6173" RevisionGUID="a0757ba5-587c-4871-b0d4-506b0a0fd028" CreationDate="2016-11-08T10:15:19.877" UserId="4873" Text="i'm not using all my computer hardware regularly anymore and want to make a change.&#xD;&#xA;Currently i have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 1 stationary computer capable of running recent games &#xD;&#xA; 2. 1 mini tv&#xD;&#xA;    computer which stutters badly and i want to get rid of &#xD;&#xA; 3. 1 remote&#xD;&#xA;    virtual server running linux&#xD;&#xA; 4. a router with a built-in NAS capability onto which i can plug-in hard drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea was to use the stationary computer for gaming and the mini computer for Netflix and stuff at the TV.  &#xD;&#xA;However my personal situation has changed to a level where i rarely use my stationary computer anymore. After work i mostly use the mini computer. This has resulted in me having two &quot;divergent&quot; workspaces.  &#xD;&#xA;Additionally, most weekends i'm away and don't use either computer, although i wish i had a mobile computer with me. Other weekends i have time for gaming, although it's a few hours tops.   &#xD;&#xA;So these are my new requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Be mobile enough to take with me on weekends&#xD;&#xA;  2. Capable of playing games at Full HD res. (Skyrim Special Edition as a benchmark)&#xD;&#xA;  3. Capable of programming/compilation (Python and Go mostly) and running office software&#xD;&#xA;  3. Have some sort of cable docking solution so i can easily move it from TV to home office and also take it with me on weekends without having to remove 5 different cables each time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea was to trade both computers for either a laptop or a very powerful tablet (if that exists). My storage hard drive would go onto my router NAS and thereby be accessible from home or away. I also thought of using my virtual server as an additional workspace, but i'm not sure if i would be using it regularly (since it requires good internet). I want to parallel install Ubuntu and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What would you buy if you were me? My budget is around $1500 (Euros, actually).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked at the Razer Blade, which seems to fulfil my requirements but is above what i want to spend and maybe even overpowered for the few times i'm actually gaming.   &#xD;&#xA;Another option is just to replace the mini computer with a budget tablet or laptop, but then i'd still have two workspaces.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17819" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6173" RevisionGUID="a0757ba5-587c-4871-b0d4-506b0a0fd028" CreationDate="2016-11-08T10:15:19.877" UserId="4873" Text="Deciding between computer, laptop or tablet-hybrid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17820" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6173" RevisionGUID="a0757ba5-587c-4871-b0d4-506b0a0fd028" CreationDate="2016-11-08T10:15:19.877" UserId="4873" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6117" RevisionGUID="b1eec876-5e42-4bb8-a489-1412a7973ded" CreationDate="2016-11-08T14:49:05.483" UserId="4523" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="The only thing that I can find that comes close to your specifications is this:&#xD;&#xA;[MSI 14.0&quot; GS43VR](http://www.newegg.com/Hard-Drive-Enclosures/SubCategory/ID-92?Tid=8040)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  14&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;2.  16GB DDR4 (expandable)&#xD;&#xA;3.  Internal m.2 SSD (base of 128GB, can be upgraded to desired size)&#xD;&#xA;4.  Internal 2.5&quot; SATA III (can be upgraded)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The easiest thing I can think of for the keyboard situation, is to just get a normal desktop keyboard and type with that.  First reason:  Your system WANTS compared to what is available in reality, is not jiving. Second reason....there are keyboards that can be customized beyond that of built in keyboards on the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as the battery life, that is something that hardly ever lives up to even the manufacturer ratings.  Just like rated MPGs on cars, it all depends on the system use.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I came as close as I could find to a specs matching system.  You may like the recommendation, then again you may not.  I know it does not fully match your specs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6168" RevisionGUID="1550d7fc-02cb-4a34-a091-422e52ee3f94" CreationDate="2016-11-08T16:18:28.347" UserId="4504" Comment="added 626 characters in body" Text="So what you are after is an internet bonding device. [Here is a great blog post about it, with video.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have to talk to your ISP to see about acquiring a bonding device, because they will be splitting all traffic to/from you house into 2 separate pipes. It's quite interesting how it works, and according to linus tech tips it works almost flawlessly when the ISP is involved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution above will work with the two fiber connections, not with the 3g/4g connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are software solutions that will let you blend multiple speeds from multiple providers, however none of them will actually give you the speed increase you a looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This ZyXel router][2] Supports duel wan connections, allowing you to prioritize your traffic. This would allow you to have certain people on a certain connection... but it does not actually bond the speeds  together giving you any actual speed increase. It just gives you better performance over a larger set of people. Also provides fail safe in case one ISP is going through an outage. Actual bonding, where traffic is split between two separate pipes and reassembled in you home is done at the ISP level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/660357-itel-bonded-internet/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833181137&amp;cm_re=duel_wan-_-33-181-137-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6175" RevisionGUID="b76533e5-fa82-482e-bfa1-83a57d4f0a00" CreationDate="2016-11-08T16:36:00.593" UserId="4523" Text="I think this may work [MSI 17.3&quot; GE72VR Apache Pro-009](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154299&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1060 6 GB (VR Ready)&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;    16 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;    17.3&quot; Full HD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;    16.49&quot; x 11.02&quot; x 1.14&quot; 5.95 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;    DVD Super Multi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommended specs for Skyrim:SE&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 7/8.1/10 (64-bit Version)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel i5-2400/AMD FX-8320&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;Memory: 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;Graphics: NVIDIA GTX 780 3GB /AMD R9 290 4GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;Storage: 12 GB available space &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as using the system for programming/compilation:  I am using a lower end MSI gaming system, a GL62-6QF for C++, as well as building custom linux distributions in both virtual and native situations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to Home Theater vs Home Office setup, I am not sure how you have things set up, but I am using a receiver with HDMI pass-thru to the TV, so all that is needed is one HDMI cable to the receiver input for both surround sound and visual output.  Am also using a full mechanical keyboard and wired mouse in place of the built in KB/touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System weighs in at 5.95Lbs (2.698875 Kilo), which I personally wouldn't consider too heavy in a backpack if moving somewhere on a weekend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1,599USD   /   1,447.47Euro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17828" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6168" RevisionGUID="39e0d66c-490e-4607-a8cd-e3f95d5ae7a4" CreationDate="2016-11-08T17:01:09.267" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17838" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="5f0a409f-0bd5-4552-95c8-15ee587338f7" CreationDate="2016-11-08T23:03:00.010" UserId="4884" Text="I am in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard with a 10-key keypad. I am going to be using it for both work and gaming so I am looking at either a Cherry MX Red or Cherry MX Brown switch.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a strict budget of £100/$125/€118(so it can be anything under but not a penny over). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that I am spending this much money I want something that is going to last me a long time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair K70 Lux Blue&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SteelSeries Apex M500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Red&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Brown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HyperX Alloy FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Strix Tactic Pro Gaming Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech G610 Orion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been doing my reading a I've head in some places, Logitech, Steelseries, ASUS, HyperX, and Corsair are good brands for mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some places I've seen people saying that CoolerMaster, Deck, Ducky, Filco, KB Paradise, KUL, Leopold, WASD, and Varmilo are reputable brands. Out of this list the only brands that I know of are Filco and Cooler Master. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that being said, what keyboards do you like out of this list/could add to this list that would fit my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please reply soon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kind regards,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17839" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="5f0a409f-0bd5-4552-95c8-15ee587338f7" CreationDate="2016-11-08T23:03:00.010" UserId="4884" Text="Best Mechanical Keyboard for £100($125/€118 - Cherry MX Brown/Red)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17840" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="5f0a409f-0bd5-4552-95c8-15ee587338f7" CreationDate="2016-11-08T23:03:00.010" UserId="4884" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="169efbfc-8514-40b1-a5fc-779f835aea40" CreationDate="2016-11-09T00:10:05.300" UserId="4884" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard with a 10-key keypad. I am going to be using it for both work and gaming so I am looking at either a Cherry MX Red or Cherry MX Brown switch.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a strict budget of £100/$125/€118(so it can be anything under but not a penny over). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that I am spending this much money I want something that is going to last me a long time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair K70 Lux Blue&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SteelSeries Apex M500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Red&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Brown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HyperX Alloy FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Strix Tactic Pro Gaming Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech G610 Orion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been doing my reading a I've heard in some places, Logitech, Steelseries, ASUS, HyperX, and Corsair are good brands for mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some places I've seen people saying that CoolerMaster, Deck, Ducky, Filco, KB Paradise, KUL, Leopold, WASD, and Varmilo are reputable brands. Out of this list the only brands that I know of are Filco and Cooler Master. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that being said, what keyboards do you like out of this list/could add to this list that would fit my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please reply soon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kind regards,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17842" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="e98409ce-b9fd-4a70-b532-e36a713e30f1" CreationDate="2016-11-09T01:03:52.630" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 47 characters in body" Text="I am in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard with a 10-key keypad. I am going to be using it for both work and gaming so I am looking at either a Cherry MX Red or Cherry MX Brown switch.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a strict budget of £100/$125/€118(so it can be anything under but not a penny over). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that I am spending this much money I want something that is going to last me a long time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair K70 Lux Blue&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SteelSeries Apex M500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Red&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Brown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HyperX Alloy FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Strix Tactic Pro Gaming Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech G610 Orion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been doing my reading a I've heard in some places, Logitech, Steelseries, ASUS, HyperX, and Corsair are good brands for mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some places I've seen people saying that CoolerMaster, Deck, Ducky, Filco, KB Paradise, KUL, Leopold, WASD, and Varmilo are reputable brands. Out of this list the only brands that I know of are Filco and Cooler Master. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that being said, what keyboards do you like out of this list/could add to this list that would fit my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6181" RevisionGUID="79b1be14-7337-4ba3-8bea-08a329b5a17f" CreationDate="2016-11-09T07:06:54.837" UserId="4873" Text="I personally have the Ducky Zero with brown switches and the build quality is very solid. It does not have any fancy features (the only one i really miss is start/stop buttons for media players), but apart from that it is very good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6181" RevisionGUID="0770070c-ef95-4c89-9152-19a01fa78267" CreationDate="2016-11-09T07:23:29.870" UserId="4873" Comment="added price information" Text="I personally have the **Ducky Zero** with brown switches and the build quality is very solid. It does not have any fancy features (the only one i really miss is start/stop buttons for media players), but apart from that it is very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price should be around 100 € - in any case less than your maximum amount." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6180" RevisionGUID="cc5fe7c1-3ff4-4544-b6c1-b801697bacf3" CreationDate="2016-11-09T11:15:31.177" UserId="4884" Comment="added a thought based on some further research" Text="I am in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard with a 10-key keypad. I am going to be using it for both work and gaming so I am looking at either a Cherry MX Red or Cherry MX Brown switch.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a strict budget of £100/$125/€118(so it can be anything under but not a penny over). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that I am spending this much money I want something that is going to last me a long time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair K70 Lux Blue&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SteelSeries Apex M500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Red&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Strafe MX Brown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HyperX Alloy FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Strix Tactic Pro Gaming Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech G610 Orion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been doing my reading a I've heard in some places, Logitech, Steelseries, ASUS, HyperX, and Corsair are good brands for mechanical keyboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some places I've seen people saying that CoolerMaster, Deck, Ducky, Filco, KB Paradise, KUL, Leopold, WASD, and Varmilo are reputable brands. Out of this list the only brands that I know of are Filco and Cooler Master. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that being said, what keyboards do you like out of this list/could add to this list that would fit my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: In thinking about it further, based on what I will be using it for, I think that a keyboard with a Cherry MX Brown switch will be the best way to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6183" RevisionGUID="c5b117a4-2f11-44bd-ae3f-ef619e6f1c39" CreationDate="2016-11-09T12:03:56.337" UserId="4888" Text="I am looking for a single board computer that can connect to two camera and save images from both camera at the frame rate of around 5-6 fps into a hard disk? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best single board computer that I can buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17855" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6183" RevisionGUID="c5b117a4-2f11-44bd-ae3f-ef619e6f1c39" CreationDate="2016-11-09T12:03:56.337" UserId="4888" Text="what is the best solution for a single board camera module" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6183" RevisionGUID="c5b117a4-2f11-44bd-ae3f-ef619e6f1c39" CreationDate="2016-11-09T12:03:56.337" UserId="4888" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6183" RevisionGUID="4efc77f6-b55e-4493-b2e7-4ed01cc0f5c9" CreationDate="2016-11-09T16:09:56.153" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6184" RevisionGUID="afd15b22-74df-44c5-a3d6-ae457641370f" CreationDate="2016-11-09T16:42:17.290" UserId="4883" Text="**Check out [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/uk_shopping_guide) and also [mechanical keyboard reseller spreadsheet for UK](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1A_0FPRfpcthe2szdHG-kympwm_uROKWtIzRZKuPNuZI/htmlview), it has most keyboards available in the UK with their respective prices and where to get them.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For price range &lt;£100, Cherry MX Red or Brown, ISO layout&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ducky One series, available in backlit and non-backlit (£75.00 - £99.99)&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid-i series, (£65.00 - £85.00)&#xD;&#xA; - Logitech G610, (£74.99 - £99.99)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6184" RevisionGUID="2d82924a-b627-4a12-8fb2-b0b21457636f" CreationDate="2016-11-09T18:17:44.233" UserId="4883" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="**Check out [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/uk_shopping_guide) and also [mechanical keyboard reseller spreadsheet for UK](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1A_0FPRfpcthe2szdHG-kympwm_uROKWtIzRZKuPNuZI/htmlview), it has most keyboards available in the UK with their respective prices and where to get them.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For price range &lt;£100, Cherry MX Red Brown, ISO layout&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ducky One series, available in backlit and non-backlit (£75.00 - £99.99)&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master Quickfire series, (£65.00 - £85.00)&#xD;&#xA; - Cooler Master Masterkeys pro L / M (£79.99 - £96.99)&#xD;&#xA; - Logitech G610, (£74.99 - £99.99)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="f52b8135-166a-46e5-b0ba-b38db547fbfa" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:12:26.100" UserId="4865" Comment="deleted 54 characters in body" Text="Are there any USB 3.1 Gen 2 hubs in existence? There seem to be lots of options that are USB-C on the computer-end, but provide only USB 3.0 ports for the peripherals. Do I really have to buy an expensive Thunderbolt dock if all I want are a few USB 3.0 and two USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it would also have a HDMI (or DisplayPort) connection and power pass through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found among others the following products (none of which has USB 3.1 Gen 2 output)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - [Satechi Slim](https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Charging/dp/B01J4BO0X8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478014705&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=satechi%2Bmulti-port&amp;th=1)&#xD;&#xA;  - [HyperDrive GN22B](https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-GN22B-GRAY-Type-C-Support-Space/dp/B01JQOSP84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478025089&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=4k+hdmi+hyperdrive)&#xD;&#xA;  - [HooToo UC001B](http://www.hootoo.com/ht-uc001-usb-type-c-hub-charging-hdmi-apple-pd.html)&#xD;&#xA;  - [Sandberg](https://www.digitec.ch/de/s1/product/sandberg-usb-c-dock-3ports-usb-hub-5747671?tagIds=77-530)&#xD;&#xA;  - [Arc Hub](http://www.bourgedesign.com)&#xD;&#xA;  - [nonda](https://www.nonda.co/products/usb-c-hub-for-apple-new-macbook-12-plus) (apparently a failed kickstarter)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4187" RevisionGUID="1e4f2d5a-2514-4a0c-973e-dac0f71cde53" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:34:30.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6185" RevisionGUID="f3e147d8-7a8f-412f-b4d7-b980a4befe50" CreationDate="2016-11-10T02:41:33.207" UserId="4891" Text="[Acer Aspire ATC-220-EB52 Desktop][4] (Refurbished)  &#xD;&#xA;- AMD A10-7800 3.5GHz  &#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR3  &#xD;&#xA;- 1TB HDD  &#xD;&#xA;- AMD Radeon R7 Graphic  &#xD;&#xA;- Windows 10 Home 64-bit  &#xD;&#xA;- CAD$ 409 + 13% tax&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering this for a general purpose desktop + Adobe Lightroom use. Will add an SSD to speed up. Thoughts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current Adobe Lightroom computer is a Mid 2013 MacBook Air and it works reasonable well. The [CPU][2] &amp; Graphics in the AMD A10 is better so the overall performance should be better (assuming Windows &amp; Mac versions are similar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this line of thinking accurate? Happy for alternatives or even a build recommendation within the same budget. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=1944&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2262&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[4]: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=7_158&amp;item_id=099743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6185" RevisionGUID="f3e147d8-7a8f-412f-b4d7-b980a4befe50" CreationDate="2016-11-10T02:41:33.207" UserId="4891" Text="Refurbished Acer AMD A10-7800 Desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6185" RevisionGUID="f3e147d8-7a8f-412f-b4d7-b980a4befe50" CreationDate="2016-11-10T02:41:33.207" UserId="4891" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6186" RevisionGUID="4ce34808-4cb5-4597-9c86-591968589771" CreationDate="2016-11-10T04:14:30.677" UserId="3980" Text="I've been able to make a &quot;identical&quot; build, that matches the specs you mentioned. [Here's the link to the PC part picker][1]. Everything is off Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: AMD A10-7800 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($123.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI A68HM-E33 V2 Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard  ($49.99 @ Amazon)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($41.55 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($28.91 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power Supply**: CoolMax 400W ATX Power Supply  ($23.22 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit OEM DVD ENGLISH  ($75.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total: $390.65**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/mNTF4C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6187" RevisionGUID="0263c2b4-7f28-42b1-b395-ce2227b456f2" CreationDate="2016-11-10T04:32:01.103" UserId="3980" Text="As for another option, here's a build using an Intel CPU. Personally, I'm not a big fan of AMD CPUs, I haven't had a good experience with them. [Here's the link to the PC part picker list.][1] Again, everthing's off Amazon. I'd personally go with this Intel build over the AMD build I mentioned. The i3 6100 has a benchmark that is slightly above/better than the AMD A10 7800. Regardless, both these builds should do what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor  ($126.28 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($60.54 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($41.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Rosewill Galaxy-03 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($29.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power Supply**: CoolMax 400W ATX Power Supply  ($23.22 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit OEM DVD ENGLISH  ($75.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $406.00&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/kdYfhq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6186" RevisionGUID="d79ea173-5d65-48ac-99ea-7c849e6eb0f9" CreationDate="2016-11-10T04:32:23.220" UserId="3980" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I've been able to make a &quot;identical&quot; build, that matches the specs you mentioned. [Here's the link to the PC part picker][1]. Everything is off Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: AMD A10-7800 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($123.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI A68HM-E33 V2 Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard  ($49.99 @ Amazon)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($41.55 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($28.91 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power Supply**: CoolMax 400W ATX Power Supply  ($23.22 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit OEM DVD ENGLISH  ($75.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total: $390.65**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/mNTF4C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6190" RevisionGUID="d9525257-c0fe-48c2-815c-6db3f3f48175" CreationDate="2016-11-10T23:24:19.513" UserId="4898" Text="If you need that kind of performance at a lower price, you could try these:&#xA;&#xA; - $20 Orange Pi PC 2: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepipc2/&#xA; - $19 Pine A64+ 1GB: https://www.pine64.org/?product=pine-a64-board-1gb&#xA;&#xA;The Pine A64+ is quite a bit larger than the RPi though, I would say that it has roughly twice the surface area. Both boards have the added advantage of gigabit ethernet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17882" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6191" RevisionGUID="7456255f-cc3a-4817-92c8-07fb10a29f68" CreationDate="2016-11-11T23:15:43.533" UserId="4902" Text="I am looking for a SATA controller capable of handling at least 12 drives for a custom personal cloud build. There are a couple good (and cheap) ones that look good on newegg, but the reviews indicate that the drivers are no longer appropriate for newer OS's (target OS in this case will be Ubuntu Server, most recent (16.04)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am fine using 4x SAS or 12x+ SATA connections. Also, would be excellent if it was on the smaller side as case space is a premium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support is optional, as I plan to use software RAID for better error detection and cross-controller support." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17883" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6191" RevisionGUID="7456255f-cc3a-4817-92c8-07fb10a29f68" CreationDate="2016-11-11T23:15:43.533" UserId="4902" Text="Need a modern SATA controller for 12 drives (end of 2016)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6191" RevisionGUID="7456255f-cc3a-4817-92c8-07fb10a29f68" CreationDate="2016-11-11T23:15:43.533" UserId="4902" Text="&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6192" RevisionGUID="711b760f-aa88-43ba-8e49-9e21b0ab927a" CreationDate="2016-11-12T01:59:20.057" UserId="3980" Text="Every battery case I've seen (for phones with non-removable batteries) occupies the port. Meaning that you can't use it for other interfaces. So that seems like an unlikely solution (not to say it isn't possible or doesn't exist). **[What if you used a USB C Multiport Adapter][1]**? **[Along with a Male USB 3.0 to Female USB 3.1 adapter.][2]** Apple's verison seems the most reputable (all the other manufacturers selling something similar on Amazon are companies I've never heard of). If it works with USB C on a [MacBook][3], then why shouldn't it work on a phone? ***All USB ports must meet a certain standard.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In Conclusion, You Could Do This:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Connect phone to multiport adapter.&#xD;&#xA;Connected to the multiport adapter is  a USB 3.0 to USB C adapter (for connecting to your drone controller)&#xD;&#xA;Connected to the USB C on the multiport adapter is a phone charger of somesort.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone verify that this does work? It seems like it would work to me, considering the fact that the USB interface is standardized. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;                           &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Digital-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B00VU2K10G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478915318&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb%20c%20multiport%20adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Lemeng-USB3-1-Connector-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01ABTHI7C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478915532&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=male%20usb%203.0%20to%20female%20usb%20c&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apple.com/macbook/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6192" RevisionGUID="35f1cc9b-2c0f-4be0-a48b-4ef4ebf53b84" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:04:25.030" UserId="3980" Comment="added 102 characters in body" Text="Every battery case I've seen (for phones with non-removable batteries) occupies the port. Meaning that you can't use it for other interfaces. So that seems like an unlikely solution (not to say it isn't possible or doesn't exist). I realize this doesn't exactly match the criteria presented by the question, but please bear with me. **[What if you used a USB C Multiport Adapter][1]**? **[Along with a Male USB 3.0 to Female USB 3.1 adapter.][2]** Apple's verison seems the most reputable (all the other manufacturers selling something similar on Amazon are companies I've never heard of). If it works with USB C on a [MacBook][3], then why shouldn't it work on a phone? ***All USB ports must meet a certain standard.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In Conclusion, You Could Do This:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Connect phone to multiport adapter.&#xD;&#xA;Connected to the multiport adapter is  a USB 3.0 to USB C adapter (for connecting to your drone controller)&#xD;&#xA;Connected to the USB C on the multiport adapter is a phone charger of somesort.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone verify that this does work? It seems like it would work to me, considering the fact that the USB interface is standardized. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;                           &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Digital-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B00VU2K10G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478915318&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb%20c%20multiport%20adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Lemeng-USB3-1-Connector-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01ABTHI7C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478915532&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=male%20usb%203.0%20to%20female%20usb%20c&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apple.com/macbook/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6193" RevisionGUID="64ae60bb-ee53-4aef-86d1-864d0f541307" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:59:50.380" UserId="3980" Text="I have a Samsung SSD being used as a boot drive through a SATA connection. I've been using it for about 8 years. It barely gets over 200 MB/s maximum in read or write performance. It's been used daily for pretty much all those years. I'm starting to fear that failure may be on the horizon as it significantly underperforms at times. Anyways, I'm looking for an upgrade that meets these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Preferrably $100 USD or Less ($150 Max, but less is better)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 64 gigabytes (the one I'm using now is 64GB)&#xD;&#xA; - **1 Priority, Quick Boot** (I have a drive just for programs and keep files on a raid array)&#xD;&#xA; - Purchasable through Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering connecting the drive through SATA III or PCIE. What should I go with? Are there more factors to consider when selecting a fast boot ssd?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of drives, I'm looking at either the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Samsung 850 Evo Pro 128GB][1] Read: 550 MB/s Max, Write: 470 MB/s Max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB PCIe][2] Read: 1400 MB/s, Write: 600 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I'm certainly open to suggestions. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-PRO-2-5-Inch-MZ-7KE128BW/dp/B00LF10L02/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478918655&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=evo%20pro%20120gb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-Predator-SHPM2280P2H-240G/dp/B00V01C376/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478919013&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pcie%2Bx1%2Bssd&amp;th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6193" RevisionGUID="64ae60bb-ee53-4aef-86d1-864d0f541307" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:59:50.380" UserId="3980" Text="SSD Boot Drive Upgrade, considerations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6193" RevisionGUID="64ae60bb-ee53-4aef-86d1-864d0f541307" CreationDate="2016-11-12T02:59:50.380" UserId="3980" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6194" RevisionGUID="2e31fcb4-f6b7-4b78-881f-ac56165effe9" CreationDate="2016-11-12T11:33:38.853" UserId="4884" Text="The search is over. After much deliberation, I ended up going with the Logitech G610 Orion Brown. The Corsair Strafe was a good keyboard and had nice red backlighting but the keys seemed to jut out a little more than the Logitech one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally I know that Logitech make good keyboards so I can relax knowing that Logitech is brand that I can trust. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone is interested I will write back with my opinion in terms of what my experience was like using it. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6196" RevisionGUID="804762f0-f11a-4dbf-9fd9-15c9dd56b56c" CreationDate="2016-11-12T13:49:54.973" UserId="4905" Text="I'd go for Audioengine's A2+. They are extremely versatile desktop speakers with a 2.0 powered system that produces excellent quality audio, even without a subwoofer. You’ll pay between $200 and $300 for the A2+, which is definitely a bargain for top-end speakers. Full review - http://soundgenetics.com/best-computer-speakers/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6194" RevisionGUID="9fd2e797-988a-4537-8808-352ba0403e47" CreationDate="2016-11-12T14:32:29.423" UserId="4884" Comment="added 61 characters in body" Text="The search is over. After much deliberation, I ended up going with the Logitech G610 Orion Brown. The Corsair Strafe was a good keyboard and had nice red backlighting but the keys seemed to jut out a little more than the Logitech one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally I know that Logitech make good keyboards so I can relax knowing that Logitech is brand that I can trust. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone is interested I will write back with my opinion in terms of what my experience was like using it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit: Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6196" RevisionGUID="3650ffa0-a3ec-4d5a-ba96-caace6084ef4" CreationDate="2016-11-12T14:37:42.713" UserId="8" Comment="added 61 characters in body" Text="I'd go for Audioengine's A2+. They are extremely versatile desktop speakers with a 2.0 powered system that produces excellent quality audio, even without a subwoofer. You’ll pay between $200 and $300 for the A2+, which is definitely a bargain for top-end speakers. Full review - http://soundgenetics.com/best-computer-speakers/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full disclosure: I am the author of the linked blog post." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6191" RevisionGUID="08cf2252-1c91-4586-9207-9ae7635aec84" CreationDate="2016-11-12T16:10:48.243" UserId="4902" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a SATA controller capable of handling at least 12 drives for a custom personal cloud build. There are a couple good (and cheap) ones that look good on newegg, but the reviews indicate that the drivers are no longer appropriate for newer OS's (target OS in this case will be Ubuntu Server, most recent (16.04)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am fine using 4x SAS or 12x+ SATA connections. Also, would be excellent if it was on the smaller side as case space is a premium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support is optional, as I plan to use software RAID for better error detection and cross-controller support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to think ~$500 max, but we will see how available these are." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6199" RevisionGUID="1c30329c-31d4-4a52-a47a-8c914e0687e2" CreationDate="2016-11-13T17:17:32.470" UserId="3630" Text="There is no such thing as &quot;850 Evo Pro&quot; it's either EVO or PRO.&#xD;&#xA;IN any case go for the Pro versions. I have lots of SSDs here, among them also the 850 Pro and the Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB PCIe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do have a M.2 NVMe capable slot, then there's no question: go for that. SATA is really not suitable for modern SSDs anymore(the numbers you see with the 850 Pro are SATA maxed out).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in terms of speed and shorter boot times, The Kingston is definitely it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nowadays there are some even better M.2 NVMe SSDs and you may want to consider if these are or are not within your budget. The performance hierarchy is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung 850 Pro &lt; Kingston HyerX &lt; Samsung 950 Pro &lt; Samsung 960 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the Samsung 950 Pro in my notebook and it gives around 2.5 GB/s read and 1.1 GB/s write. As this is what Samsung announces, I tend to believe that the 960 Pro will deliver the 3.5GB/s read and 2.1 GB/s write although I haven't tested it personally yet.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6201" RevisionGUID="28281296-45b3-480a-90dc-636544ce786c" CreationDate="2016-11-13T23:00:19.133" UserId="4913" Text="Titled mentioned are the main focusing criteria. Of course it should be i7 processor, a graphics card, 15&quot; display and not too heavy to carry and a matt display. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your opinion in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17915" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6201" RevisionGUID="28281296-45b3-480a-90dc-636544ce786c" CreationDate="2016-11-13T23:00:19.133" UserId="4913" Text="A laptop with 512 ssd and 32gb ram within 1000-1300$ range?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6201" RevisionGUID="28281296-45b3-480a-90dc-636544ce786c" CreationDate="2016-11-13T23:00:19.133" UserId="4913" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6202" RevisionGUID="7100d67c-2e23-474e-b1dc-0dd8cdd7311a" CreationDate="2016-11-14T01:08:09.290" UserId="4523" Text="&#xD;&#xA;For a system that is preconfigured with those specs, you are looking at a bit higher of a price range.  The lowest I could find via Newegg was an HP Envy for around $1700 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel your best bet, would be to look at companies that build customized systems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One such place is [XoticPC](http://www.xoticpc.com).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd look at customizing either of the following, to stay close to budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  [MSI GP62 Leopard Pro-870](http://www.xoticpc.com/msi-gp62-leopard-pro870.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  [ASUS GL552VW-DH71](http://www.xoticpc.com/asus-gl552vwdh71.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6204" RevisionGUID="2fa7aa0d-e462-47a8-adc1-af9f33e01bae" CreationDate="2016-11-14T02:04:17.977" UserId="3980" Text="I'd recommend the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO][1]. It has 4 direct contact heat pipes and is rated for 180W thermal dissipation. And goes for about £30. You can also buy some clips and convert it to push-pull rather than just push.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dimensions are (H,W,L) 158.5mm x 120mm x 77mm (1 fan) or ~100mm (2 fans).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=coolermaster%20evo&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acoolermaster%20evo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="da8cd808-5e8a-4b5a-a739-7f59db9a6a71" CreationDate="2016-11-14T16:53:58.990" UserId="219" Comment="45" />
  <row Id="17927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6208" RevisionGUID="78319a79-f7eb-4aa8-a111-a1bd1a4f1488" CreationDate="2016-11-14T17:19:03.523" UserId="4523" Text="Closest I could find:  [Polk Audio SurroundBar 5000 IHT 31-inch Bluetooth equipped with Wireless Subwoofer](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290282&amp;cm_re=soundbar-_-82-290-282-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know it's not 30&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything else I could find was in the 37&quot; to 42&quot; range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6211" RevisionGUID="c96fadb9-6ca9-477d-8573-2d075dd9c106" CreationDate="2016-11-14T18:12:43.117" UserId="4920" Text="I am currently designing a board game whereby various cards, figurines, and basically all sorts of game items will be plugged into the main game board, which will be linked to a Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As various items can be plugged into the same socket, I would like some data to be stored in each item, so that the main program loop can respond accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This data would be very small: only a few bytes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be the best hardware to use as storage on the game items? USB drives would work well in terms of plugging in, however they seem a bit overkill in terms of storage size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions welcome!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6211" RevisionGUID="c96fadb9-6ca9-477d-8573-2d075dd9c106" CreationDate="2016-11-14T18:12:43.117" UserId="4920" Text="Drive to store very small amount of data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17935" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6211" RevisionGUID="c96fadb9-6ca9-477d-8573-2d075dd9c106" CreationDate="2016-11-14T18:12:43.117" UserId="4920" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="2e958c4c-f2d4-4f96-bbb2-61403529edef" CreationDate="2016-11-14T19:19:40.070" UserId="219" Comment="added 76 characters in body" Text="I need a soundbar 30&quot; or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems [often seen in low end 2 channel systems &amp; TV's][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smallest 3 Channel system I could find is the [Vizio 3.0-Channel Soundbar with Bluetooth and Deep Bass Technology - Black SB3830-C6M][2] which shouldn't have the problem but it's 38&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At minimum it just needs to have Digital SPDIF Input for I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No additional external components (sub-woofer, satellite speakers, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&amp;oq=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Vizio-3-0-Channel-Soundbar-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B00Z2XXEKI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="91626f77-be1c-476a-b5d0-9d980936bcb3" CreationDate="2016-11-14T19:48:37.463" UserId="219" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I need a soundbar 30&quot; or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems [often seen in low end 2 channel systems &amp; TV's][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smallest 3 Channel system I could find is the [Vizio 3.0-Channel Soundbar with Bluetooth and Deep Bass Technology - Black SB3830-C6M][2] which shouldn't have the problem but it's 38&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At minimum it just needs to have Digital SPDIF Input for I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No additional external system components (sub-woofer, satellite speakers, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&amp;oq=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Vizio-3-0-Channel-Soundbar-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B00Z2XXEKI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6213" RevisionGUID="e6a56be3-86ac-4aaa-80fd-98b648b349f8" CreationDate="2016-11-14T20:38:02.777" UserId="4523" Text="Well, there is an argument to be made here:  Which is more important, low cost, or low capacity?   I would suggest this:  [THZY 512M USB](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABR04J41811)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simply based on low price this would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Capacity is 512MB, so not overboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17944" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6208" RevisionGUID="a5d021a5-291d-4b10-8dbe-8d1d1db62599" CreationDate="2016-11-14T22:10:01.167" UserId="4523" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text="Edit: 11/14/16 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How about something like this? [Sony HT-XT3](https://www.amazon.com/Sony-HTXT1-2-1-Channel-Speaker-Subwoofer/dp/B00IWQREOE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479161065&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=HT-XT3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is actually a soundbase, which sits under the TV....but it does fit the rest of the specs as far as width....Finding a match for your specifications, is being tedious lol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a [review](http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/tvs-entertainment/soundbars/1404104/sony-ht-xt3-review) if it helps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17945" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6214" RevisionGUID="8ec5de7a-7309-49f9-a5c9-5ed894b538b9" CreationDate="2016-11-14T22:54:43.967" UserId="4922" Text="What I’m looking for is a device which consists of a smartphone-like interface and a small printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smartphone part should provide&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a capacitive touch screen&#xD;&#xA;- a HTML5-capable browser&#xD;&#xA;- network connectivity (3G/4G, Wifi, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- enough CPU power, RAM etc. for running a rather complex web application&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The printer could be some 2.5 inch thermo-transfer or similar technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The browser should allow printing from a browser application, for example it could expose an additional JavaScript API for talking to the printer, something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    window.Printer = &#xD;&#xA;    {&#xD;&#xA;        getLineWidth : function() {}, // returns the letters fitting a row&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;        getPixelWidth : function() {}, // returns the number pixels in a row&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;        printLine : function(text) {}, // prints a text, then CR/LF&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;        printImage : function(blob) {} // prints an image in a given format&#xD;&#xA;    };&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, ideally, it would print web pages with print stylesheets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device should be portable, meaning it should be able to run on or charge via USB, and it shouldn’t be too heavy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like this exist? Does anybody have experience in regard to quality, reliability, spare parts and paper availability? How does it work in practice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively: Is there a portable printer for Android which registers as a local printing service and prints browser contents formatted by HTML5 print stylesheets?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(NOTE: What we currently have is a USB thermo printer and a web app running in WebView with a JS API similar to the example above … but we want to get rid of it and have an integrated, purely web-based solution.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17946" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6214" RevisionGUID="8ec5de7a-7309-49f9-a5c9-5ed894b538b9" CreationDate="2016-11-14T22:54:43.967" UserId="4922" Text="Android HTML5 pocket printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17947" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6214" RevisionGUID="8ec5de7a-7309-49f9-a5c9-5ed894b538b9" CreationDate="2016-11-14T22:54:43.967" UserId="4922" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="f008619b-885b-4f62-92f6-9901aadb4e29" CreationDate="2016-11-15T00:04:55.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17949" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="99" RevisionGUID="5e7d883e-4ca7-43d2-b70a-03bb8b0e1d5e" CreationDate="2016-11-15T00:58:31.780" UserId="1729" Comment="Copy edited. (its = possessive, it's = &quot;it is&quot; or &quot;it has&quot;. See for example &lt;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Its-and-It%27s&gt;.)" Text="If you're just coding and avoiding RSI, get a keyboard with [scissor switches](http://deskthority.net/wiki/Scissor_switch). This switch type is used in the famous ultra-thin Apple keyboard and most modern laptops. It's extremely quiet so you won't get annoyed, and its key feature is its low profile meaning you don't have to press keys down &quot;really far.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a mechanical keyboard, most switch types need the user to press 3-4&amp;nbsp;mm (from initial to actuation point), which doesn't seem like much at all, but after a ton of key presses it adds up quickly. Scissor switches reduce this distance to just 1-2&amp;nbsp;mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You definitely want a keyboard with scissor switches if you're just coding.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17950" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="99" RevisionGUID="5e7d883e-4ca7-43d2-b70a-03bb8b0e1d5e" CreationDate="2016-11-15T00:58:31.780" Comment="Proposed by 1729 approved by 8 edit id of 536" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6215" RevisionGUID="35d78dc2-5859-46a2-82f5-6bb7406a069f" CreationDate="2016-11-15T10:46:14.223" UserId="4928" Text="We use a &quot;Samsung SyncMaster 320MXn-3&quot; as a public display in our entrance hall. &#xD;&#xA;The Windows XP Embedded is outdated and we are looking for an alterntive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only usage is: Some employees connect via teamviewer to the display and change a presentation powerpoint file which is started via Windows &quot;autostart&quot; in fullscreen. The display will shutdown in the evening and automatically boots every weekday.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new display should satisfy the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display larger than 32&quot; with VESA mount&#xD;&#xA; - LAN Port&#xD;&#xA; - up to date operating system&#xD;&#xA; - Automatically start (best via bios setting) and shutdown (script)&#xD;&#xA; - Possibility to (auto)start a presentation (or image file) in full screen. Preferable Microsoft Publisher 2010 or newer.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy possibility to transfer the updated file from client to display for our users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps you have a completly different idea. Please let me know!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17954" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6215" RevisionGUID="35d78dc2-5859-46a2-82f5-6bb7406a069f" CreationDate="2016-11-15T10:46:14.223" UserId="4928" Text="Recommendation for new public display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17955" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6215" RevisionGUID="35d78dc2-5859-46a2-82f5-6bb7406a069f" CreationDate="2016-11-15T10:46:14.223" UserId="4928" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="5b6ce807-127b-4833-baf6-aab68d08c00c" CreationDate="2016-11-15T11:21:35.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="3b62eb47-09b0-4a72-bacb-ae1f9425d392" CreationDate="2016-11-15T14:31:21.707" UserId="219" Comment="added 116 characters in body" Text="I need a soundbar 30&quot; or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems [often seen in low end 2 channel systems &amp; TV's][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smallest 3 Channel system I could find is the [Vizio 3.0-Channel Soundbar with Bluetooth and Deep Bass Technology - Black SB3830-C6M][2] which shouldn't have the problem but it's 38&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At minimum it just needs to have Digital SPDIF Input for I/O.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No additional external system components (sub-woofer, satellite speakers, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The soundbar will be mounted right below the TV using a TV soundbar mounting bracket. The TV is on a wall mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&amp;oq=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Vizio-3-0-Channel-Soundbar-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B00Z2XXEKI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17962" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6217" RevisionGUID="1fc5cedb-12d1-4823-81b4-6091f75499c6" CreationDate="2016-11-15T22:36:53.600" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/269452/tcp-client-server-with-monitoring" />
  <row Id="17963" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6218" RevisionGUID="aa9d99f7-e134-4b1c-9901-cd6bc0d32f11" CreationDate="2016-11-15T22:36:53.600" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/269452/tcp-client-server-with-monitoring/269456#269456" />
  <row Id="17965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6218" RevisionGUID="600435d5-ee81-4d30-9590-16731226ad5e" CreationDate="2016-11-15T13:41:36.930" UserDisplayName="bigjosh" Text="#1. Network switch TAP port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a switch, the read-only port is often called a &quot;TAP&quot; port...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://observer.viavisolutions.com/includes/popups/taps/tap-vs-span.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...although different vendors have different names. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will pass you all the data that goes bettwen the two devices, but the switch essentially reads the incomming packets and then retransmitts them out the TAP port, so the data is buffered and error checked by the switch. You may not see some kinds of packets (like runts or bad CRC), and the timing of the packets will be altered because of the buffering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#2. Dedicated tap hardware &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are expensive, but typically give you lower level access to the data. This is good if, say, you need exact timestamps for the packets which are not available on a switch TAP port becuase the packets are buffered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://datacomsystems.com/products/network-taps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#3. Passive hardware tap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can get both devices to run at 10Base-T speeds, you can use a passive tap like this one...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;http://hackerwarehouse.com/product/lan-tap-pro/?gclid=COGQ7Y3yqtACFdRMDQodYH4CKg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are also not hard to make yourself if you have the right tools. A passive tap can show you even media level problems which don't usually show up on the higher level taps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzfmA.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qfnV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfK4f.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6217" RevisionGUID="cc142c53-e1a6-4074-8432-e712dfdcda56" CreationDate="2016-11-15T13:32:15.300" UserId="4939" UserDisplayName="Elvedin Hamzagic" Text="Does anyone know a device which has Ethernet port to act as an adapter between a TCP client and a server, with the purpose to intercept data? It has to have the ability to receive data from one side and send it to the other with the extra ability to send data also on one additional IP/port. That port should be read-only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The similar device which converts data between serial and TCP which I know exist is `MOXA NPort`. They call it Serial Device Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate also if you can tell me if there is a programmable device which has Ethernet connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE:&#xD;&#xA;It isn't necessary for the client and the server to be directly connected to each another. They both can maintain separate connection with the adapter, so that adapter would be a server/client with additional read-only connection on the server side. In that case it is effectively a computer connected to the router. As a programmer I know that it can be achieved using a PC with a simple software, but a would prefer a dedicated hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17968" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6217" RevisionGUID="cc142c53-e1a6-4074-8432-e712dfdcda56" CreationDate="2016-11-15T13:32:15.300" UserId="4939" UserDisplayName="Elvedin Hamzagic" Text="TCP client/server with monitoring" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6217" RevisionGUID="cc142c53-e1a6-4074-8432-e712dfdcda56" CreationDate="2016-11-15T13:32:15.300" UserId="4939" UserDisplayName="Elvedin Hamzagic" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6222" RevisionGUID="cd5646e9-5f98-4be8-a23c-3fc4eb7fe332" CreationDate="2016-11-16T01:31:55.337" UserId="4523" Text="This is the only Wireless-AC Airport card I could find:&#xD;&#xA;[BCM94360CSAX 802.11AC BT4.0](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABP54JX3330&amp;cm_re=airport_card-_-9SIABP54JX3330-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the following models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macbook Pro rentina 2012 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A1425 A1398 A1502 MD212 MD213 MC975 MC976&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2012 mid rmbp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2012 late rmbp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2013 early rmnp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macbook Pro 13&quot; A1502 2013 Retina&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible Subfamily&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacBook Pro &quot;Core i5&quot; 2.4 13&quot; Late 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacBook Pro &quot;Core i5&quot; 2.6 13&quot; Late 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacBook Pro &quot;Core i7&quot; 2.8 13&quot; Late 2013&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compatible Model No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ME864LL/A* ME866LL/A " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ec4b1e8b-f651-42f2-9a48-8ea0e5fcd90f" CreationDate="2016-11-16T03:38:26.757" UserId="4523" Comment="edited tags to match post" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17983" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ec4b1e8b-f651-42f2-9a48-8ea0e5fcd90f" CreationDate="2016-11-16T03:38:26.757" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 4614 edit id of 537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6223" RevisionGUID="9d6264e1-16d5-451a-aa1d-b8dd780b9594" CreationDate="2016-11-16T06:30:09.507" UserId="4934" Text="I have a Dell Inspiron 15.6 inch AMD 3541 (Processor: AMD E1-6010 APU) and have already upgraded the 2GB RAM to 8GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The RAM upgrade gave almost no visible performance increase. Upgrading to Windows 10 neither. Essentially I only have to use the laptop for Google Sheets and we have some fairly complex sheets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sheets perform absolutely fine on newer machines but are so slow to load and edit cells using any browser. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would and upgrade to an SSD likely impact the performance specifically in chrome / google docs?? I don't awfully want to keep spending more money on a dud!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6223" RevisionGUID="9d6264e1-16d5-451a-aa1d-b8dd780b9594" CreationDate="2016-11-16T06:30:09.507" UserId="4934" Text="Suggestions to improve Google Sheets performance on laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17986" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6223" RevisionGUID="9d6264e1-16d5-451a-aa1d-b8dd780b9594" CreationDate="2016-11-16T06:30:09.507" UserId="4934" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="e95efaed-4445-44f0-80ff-92359ffb98b5" CreationDate="2016-11-16T07:38:27.410" UserId="4935" Text="&#xD;&#xA;i'm looking to move from Mac to PC as the new 2016 Mac Book Pro is terribly under baked in terms of performance. In turn i want to build a desktop PC for around $3000 USD but my knowledge of PC components and how they interact with one another is stuck in 2006&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My head is aching from reading through 1000's of posts for the past week about duel SLI GPU's and benchmark variations between different operating systems and im totally confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i know this sounds totally naive (and i hope i'm not asking too much) but id love for someone to just list a kick ass build which i can simply go out and buy. Understandably people have done 3D PC builds in the past, which i have come across in my research yet they all seem to be around a year old&#xD;&#xA;Here are some of my requirements that should help supply context to the build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	•	I'd like to run Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;	•	I mainly use blender for medium detailed animations in cycles&#xD;&#xA;	•	I'd like to jump on the Duel GPU bandwagon&#xD;&#xA;	•	My budget is around $3000 USD&#xD;&#xA;	•	No keyboard, mouse or monitor needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="e95efaed-4445-44f0-80ff-92359ffb98b5" CreationDate="2016-11-16T07:38:27.410" UserId="4935" Text="PC Desktop build for Blender 3d around $3000 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17989" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="e95efaed-4445-44f0-80ff-92359ffb98b5" CreationDate="2016-11-16T07:38:27.410" UserId="4935" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2359" RevisionGUID="0bbeabb8-0193-4bfe-b4c0-f258bc38d012" CreationDate="2016-11-16T07:53:17.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6223" RevisionGUID="c275d149-6234-43e3-a8b0-23c273cbaca6" CreationDate="2016-11-16T08:19:44.193" UserId="4934" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell Inspiron 15.6 inch AMD 3541 (Processor: AMD E1-6010 APU) and have already upgraded the 2GB RAM to 8GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The RAM upgrade gave almost no visible performance increase. Upgrading to Windows 10 neither. Essentially I only have to use the laptop for Google Sheets and we have some fairly complex sheets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sheets perform absolutely fine on newer machines but are so slow to load and edit cells using any browser. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would and upgrade to an SSD likely impact the performance specifically in chrome / google docs?? I don't awfully want to keep spending more money on a dud!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am using Chrome browser (although tried Firefox and Edge) and have tested Performance ModePower Settings&gt;&gt;Performance Mode.." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6223" RevisionGUID="040b62c3-77a0-4c08-9dee-b9547306f8f5" CreationDate="2016-11-16T12:33:28.413" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="17993" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6225" RevisionGUID="782dba75-20b5-4517-be96-3fd59de308d9" CreationDate="2016-11-16T13:46:21.857" UserId="8" Text="With that kind of budget, you can get just about anything you like. I've put together a build which should run everything you want to do and more just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X  &#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($144.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($77.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($164.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card  ($272.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($42.39 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($82.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($29.79 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total:** $1236.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplified to the important bits, that becomes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-6700K 4.0GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1x GTX 1060 6GB GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 500 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Some notes:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I've included Windows 10 Home in the list, because I don't know if you already have it. If you do, you can remove it and get the build for $82 cheaper.&#xD;&#xA; - I've gone for just one GPU. With the kind of power you get out of the GTX 10-series GPU's, and with the kind of work you're doing, you really only *need* one - the only reason to get two is for bragging rights.&#xD;&#xA; - I've included a wireless adapter. That was important for me when I built my PC, because the nearest RJ45 connection was 20m away. If you can be sure you'll be wired all the time, you can exclude this.&#xD;&#xA;-  There's room both in the build and in your budget to upgrade. You could up it to 32 GB RAM if you wanted (it's not necessary for your usage, but it's possible), or you could add another disk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17994" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="6cb5f08a-3cfc-4b0a-a5d9-ce975ab35b82" CreationDate="2016-11-16T13:58:26.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="17999" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="63" RevisionGUID="0e6245ed-c59e-45ac-aa71-0b3dea6a272b" CreationDate="2016-11-16T16:58:27.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18006" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6225" RevisionGUID="900c601d-8b23-4cc0-96fd-052c1818ffde" CreationDate="2016-11-16T22:22:40.450" UserId="8" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="With that kind of budget, you can get just about anything you like. I've put together a build which should run everything you want to do and more just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X  &#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($144.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($77.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($164.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card  ($272.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($42.39 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($82.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($29.79 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total:** $1236.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplified to the important bits, that becomes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-6700K 4.0GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1x GTX 1060 6GB GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 500 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Some notes:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I've included Windows 10 Home in the list, because I don't know if you already have it. If you do, you can remove it and get the build for $82 cheaper.&#xD;&#xA; - I've gone for just one GPU. With the kind of power you get out of the GTX 10-series GPU's, and with the kind of work you're doing, you really only *need* one - the only reason to get two is for bragging rights.&#xD;&#xA; - I've included a wireless adapter. That was important for me when I built my PC, because the nearest RJ45 connection was 20m away. If you can be sure you'll be wired all the time, you can exclude this.&#xD;&#xA; -  There's room both in the build and in your budget to upgrade. You could up it to 32 GB RAM if you wanted (it's not necessary for your usage, but it's possible), or you could add another disk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6231" RevisionGUID="a5c65023-3c4d-4200-8f56-22436b9ef43d" CreationDate="2016-11-17T00:25:32.070" UserId="3836" Text="[A slightly more studied build][1], for a little bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor  ($570.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.3 CFM CPU Cooler  ($14.99 @ Newegg)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99P-SLI ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($193.98 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($69.99 @ Newegg)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($69.99 @ Newegg)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Storage: ADATA Premier Pro SP900 64GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($38.99 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($168.50 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card  ($379.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: Thermaltake Commander G41 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($34.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case Fan: LEPA Vortex 12 PWM 63.9 CFM  120mm Fan  ($3.99 @ Newegg)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Case Fan: LEPA Vortex 12 PWM 63.9 CFM  120mm Fan  ($3.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case Fan: LEPA Vortex 12 PWM 63.9 CFM  120mm Fan  ($3.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other: Ubuntu Studio 64 Bit ($0.00)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $1624.37&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few points about this build I'd like to touch on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu over Windows: unless another part of your workflow requires windows, [benchmarks show][2] Blender performs *much* better in Linux, so that should be your first choice of OS. It will also be less of a leap to go from Mac to Linux, as you'll be sticking to UNIX-like environments.&#xD;&#xA; - This motherboard was specifically selected for the way it evenly spaces its four 16x PCI-E slots; this will make adding up to four full size GPUs easy in the future.&#xD;&#xA; - The large PSU was selected to allow easy GPU upgrades in the future - smaller PSUs may not properly power multiple fullsize GPUs, and worse - may not have the necessary cabling.&#xD;&#xA; - The hexacore CPU will outperform newer quadcore CPUs in programs like Blender. This one also has a few more PCI-E lanes for additional GPU installations down the road; while the motherboard PCH should eliminate that problem for most such configurations, it's always nice to know you're building to spec, to eliminate compatibility issues and minor drops in performance.&#xD;&#xA; - The M.2 PCI-E 3.0 drive offers double the I/O of SATA III SSDs; use this for storing and working with your projects. The regular 64gb SATA III SSD is for your OS and programs.&#xD;&#xA; - Adding more and faster RAM will yield dividends in Blender builds - not only will faster RAM complete your work faster for only a nominal price increase, but having more RAM than your program needs can free up your remaining memory to create the fastest storage medium of all, a [RAMDisk][3]. This can be used to cache your writes and reads on all your disks, hugely improving storage I/O performance across the board at the cost of increased system startup and shutdown times.&#xD;&#xA; - The fans aren't probably strictly necessary, though they might come in handy if you were to add a number of GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZmPMwV&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://lionrender.com/2016/06/16/top-gpu-cards-performance-comparison-in-blender-gtx1080-titan-x-and-gtx980ti/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.rapiddisk.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6225" RevisionGUID="12789215-5328-4e57-8228-d8a513ba25b9" CreationDate="2016-11-17T01:21:33.517" UserId="8" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="With that kind of budget, you can get just about anything you like. I've put together a build which should run everything you want to do and more just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X  &#xD;&#xA;Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/zCm66X/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($24.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($144.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($77.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA; - Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  ($164.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card  ($272.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA; - Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA; - Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($42.39 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA; - Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($82.00 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA; - Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($29.79 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total:** $1236.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplified to the important bits, that becomes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-6700K 4.0GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1x GTX 1060 6GB GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 500 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Some notes:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I've included Windows 10 Home in the list, because I don't know if you already have it. If you do, you can remove it and get the build for $82 cheaper. As Adam says, you should also consider Ubuntu, especially given that it's free.&#xD;&#xA; - I've gone for just one GPU. With the kind of power you get out of the GTX 10-series GPU's, and with the kind of work you're doing, you really only *need* one - the only reason to get two is for bragging rights.&#xD;&#xA; - I've included a wireless adapter. That was important for me when I built my PC, because the nearest RJ45 connection was 20m away. If you can be sure you'll be wired all the time, you can exclude this.&#xD;&#xA; -  There's room both in the build and in your budget to upgrade. You could up it to 32 GB RAM if you wanted (it's not necessary for your usage, but it's possible), or you could add another disk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="25ac6dc5-740b-4108-90dc-3270ba7ccd07" CreationDate="2016-11-17T07:30:59.577" UserId="4948" Text="Is there a range extender that is using ethernet rather than WiFi for incoming network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Meaning, I want my range extender to have an input ethernet port (rather than output), so that I'll connect it to the ethernet port on the wall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the range extender I could find were transforming WiFi to WiFi or WiFi to ethernet, and I'm looking for ethernet to WiFi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18018" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="25ac6dc5-740b-4108-90dc-3270ba7ccd07" CreationDate="2016-11-17T07:30:59.577" UserId="4948" Text="Range extender via ethernet rather than WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="25ac6dc5-740b-4108-90dc-3270ba7ccd07" CreationDate="2016-11-17T07:30:59.577" UserId="4948" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6233" RevisionGUID="dd147b72-b2f3-4c3b-9ce5-4c8359e57601" CreationDate="2016-11-17T07:37:02.633" UserId="3980" Text="[Here's what I'd Do][1]: This build is similar to the build I use personally however, it has been modified to fit your requirements... I've kept all the parts from one online store (amazon.com) to help simplify the ordering process. Also, Amazon tends to send orders in one package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Build Notes:*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k has reasonable &quot;overclockability&quot; for additional performance when needed. e.g. when using CPU for rendering with cycles.&#xD;&#xA; - The Thermaltake NiC C5 is rated for 230W TDP, personally, I have been able to render with the i7 6700k @ 4.8GHz under load.&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1080 (2 way SLI): CUDA can also be used for rendering with cycles. They are overclockable with MSi Afterburner (again, for more performance while rendering). The GTX 10 series packs quite a punch.&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard supports CPU and GPU overclocking (includes SLI bridge)&#xD;&#xA; - There's still a sizeable chunk of budget left for upgrades (more ram, additional disks etc...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  **($337.00 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Cooler**: Thermaltake NiC C5 99.1 CFM CPU Cooler  **($58.34 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI Z170A SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  **($132.90 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  **($181.77 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  **($128.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  **($72.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  &#xD;&#xA;**($709.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  **($709.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drive**: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer  **($17.75 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  **($87.81 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Case Fan**: Corsair CO-9050016-BLED 52.2 CFM  120mm Fans  **($24.49 @ Amazon)** (It's a 2 pack)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU**: Sentey XPP725-HS Xplus Power Supply 725w Pc Computer ATX Desktop Power Supply **($42.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Thermaltake Versa H22 Window CA-1B3-00M1WN-00 Mid-tower Computer Chassis (Black)  **($43.55 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $2603.01&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9KyVY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6233" RevisionGUID="90319552-e32a-4bab-84f4-47f1fad0979a" CreationDate="2016-11-17T07:55:29.743" UserId="3980" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="[Here's what I'd Do][1]: This build is similar to the build I use personally however, it has been modified to fit your requirements... I've kept all the parts from one online store (amazon.com) to help simplify the ordering process. Also, Amazon tends to send orders in one package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Build Notes:*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k has reasonable &quot;overclockability&quot; for additional performance when needed. e.g. when using CPU for rendering with cycles.&#xD;&#xA; - The Thermaltake NiC C5 is rated for 230W TDP, personally, I have been able to render with the i7 6700k @ 4.8GHz under load.&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1080 (2 way SLI): CUDA can also be used for rendering with cycles. They are overclockable with MSi Afterburner (again, for more performance while rendering). The GTX 10 series packs quite a punch.&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard supports CPU and GPU overclocking (includes SLI bridge)&#xD;&#xA; - There's still a sizeable chunk of budget left for upgrades (more ram, additional disks etc...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  **($337.00 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Cooler**: Thermaltake NiC C5 99.1 CFM CPU Cooler  **($58.34 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI Z170A SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  **($132.90 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  **($181.77 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  **($128.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  **($72.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  &#xD;&#xA;**($709.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  **($709.14 @ Amazon)** (Access to the dual GPU bandwagon)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drive**: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer  **($17.75 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  **($87.81 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Case Fan**: Corsair CO-9050016-BLED 52.2 CFM  120mm Fans  **($24.49 @ Amazon)** (It's a 2 pack)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU**: Sentey XPP725-HS Xplus Power Supply 725w Pc Computer ATX Desktop Power Supply **($42.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Thermaltake Versa H22 Window CA-1B3-00M1WN-00 Mid-tower Computer Chassis (Black)  **($43.55 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $2603.01&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9KyVY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="5578490c-d343-41b4-a674-a5b93f447ea0" CreationDate="2016-11-17T08:27:48.353" UserId="2208" Comment="Spelling, grammar, format" Text="I'm looking to move from Mac to PC as the new 2016 Mac Book Pro is terribly under baked in terms of performance. In turn, I want to build a desktop PC for around $3000 USD, but my knowledge of PC components and how they interact with one another is stuck in 2006&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My head is aching from reading through 1000's of posts for the past week about duel SLI GPU's and benchmark variations between different operating systems and I'm totally confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this sounds totally naive (and I hope I'm not asking too much) but I'd love for someone to just list a kick ass build which I can simply go out and buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Understandably people have done 3D PC builds in the past, which I have come across in my research, yet they all seem to be around a year old&#xD;&#xA;Here are some of my requirements that should help supply context to the build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I'd like to run Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- I mainly use blender for medium detailed animations in cycles&#xD;&#xA;- I'd like to jump on the Duel GPU bandwagon&#xD;&#xA;- My budget is around $3000 USD&#xD;&#xA;- No keyboard, mouse or monitor needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18023" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="5578490c-d343-41b4-a674-a5b93f447ea0" CreationDate="2016-11-17T08:27:48.353" Comment="Proposed by 2208 approved by 3836, -1 edit id of 538" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6224" RevisionGUID="0346e7e0-d321-4257-99d5-ad23b636d545" CreationDate="2016-11-17T08:27:48.353" UserId="203" Comment="Spelling, grammar, format" Text="I'm looking to move from Mac to PC as the new 2016 Mac Book Pro is terribly under baked in terms of performance. In turn, I want to build a desktop PC for around $3000 USD, but my knowledge of PC components and how they interact with one another is stuck in 2006&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My head is aching from reading through 1000's of posts for the past week about dual SLI GPU's and benchmark variations between different operating systems and I'm totally confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this sounds totally naive (and I hope I'm not asking too much) but I'd love for someone to just list a kick ass build which I can simply go out and buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Understandably people have done 3D PC builds in the past, which I have come across in my research, yet they all seem to be around a year old&#xD;&#xA;Here are some of my requirements that should help supply context to the build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I'd like to run Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- I mainly use Blender for medium detail animations in cycles&#xD;&#xA;- I'd like to jump on the Dual GPU bandwagon&#xD;&#xA;- My budget is around $3000 USD&#xD;&#xA;- No keyboard, mouse or monitor needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6235" RevisionGUID="102c9057-6cdf-4ac9-8456-db6344c8b673" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:30:24.720" UserId="2343" Text="I sometimes prepare/print a large number of foils for use in checking printed materials. The foils are overlaid over the printed materials to check that the design is identical. Being able to replace the foils with a transluscent screen (digital display) would be convenient, and perhaps also economical. Does there exist any commercially available products with a transluscent display of A4 size? If not, what is the larges available transluscent display? It could be part of a tablet or require connecting to a PC, as long as it can display PDF files." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6235" RevisionGUID="102c9057-6cdf-4ac9-8456-db6344c8b673" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:30:24.720" UserId="2343" Text="see-through screen to replace foils for checking printed materials?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6235" RevisionGUID="102c9057-6cdf-4ac9-8456-db6344c8b673" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:30:24.720" UserId="2343" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="1de7cfc4-8d82-4286-a20a-aa508ca065ab" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:39:13.573" UserId="4953" Text="I'm currently relocating once every on or two months and as I have not much luggage space on my &lt;s&gt;car&lt;/s&gt; motorbike, I can't move around my PC and my 26 inches screen and I'm stuck with just my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm thinking to buy a cheap mini projector to plug into the laptop to watch movies and play games and need some advice, as it's a field I've never looked into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Decent screen size, maybe at least a 42 inches?&#xD;&#xA; - Decent resolution, no needs for FullHD but at least something more than a 1366×768 &#xD;&#xA; - HDMI input&#xD;&#xA; - Small. Even better, lightweight.&#xD;&#xA; - Silent&#xD;&#xA; - I have no idea of prices, but if possible...no more than 100 euro?&#xD;&#xA; - decent quality, I need text to be readable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing else, and I mean it literally: I'm ok in trading everything else for the above features. I'll be using it only at night so (reasonably) low lumens is ok, I don't need usb ports, no wifi, nothing nothing nothing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18033" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="1de7cfc4-8d82-4286-a20a-aa508ca065ab" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:39:13.573" UserId="4953" Text="Small projector for watching movies/playing game" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18034" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="1de7cfc4-8d82-4286-a20a-aa508ca065ab" CreationDate="2016-11-17T14:39:13.573" UserId="4953" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18035" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6237" RevisionGUID="3bd3e6d0-5af5-4751-bc3f-ba691891a574" CreationDate="2016-11-17T15:25:28.717" UserId="4955" Text="This one looks like it meets your requirements in terms of size and dialog volume: https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/speakers/home_theater/bose-solo-5-tv-sound-system.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has mounting brackets&#xD;&#xA; - Has &quot;Dialogue mode to hear each word and detail clearly&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Has Optical audio input (digital)&#xD;&#xA; - Is &lt; 30&quot; (21.6&quot;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6233" RevisionGUID="d083de2f-00a1-40ee-a420-b4f8f4a2302e" CreationDate="2016-11-17T16:13:28.427" UserId="3980" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="[Here's what I'd Do][1]: This build is similar to the build I use personally however, it has been modified to fit your requirements... I've kept all the parts from one online store (amazon.com) to help simplify the ordering process. Also, Amazon tends to send orders in one package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Build Notes:*** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k has reasonable &quot;overclockability&quot; for additional performance when needed. e.g. when using CPU for rendering with cycles.&#xD;&#xA; - The Thermaltake NiC C5 is rated for 230W TDP, personally, I have been able to render with the i7 6700k @ 4.8GHz under load.&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1080 (2 way SLI if you want to or separate): CUDA can also be used for rendering with cycles. They are overclockable with MSi Afterburner (again, for more performance while rendering). **When using 2 GPUs, 2 tiles will be rendering simultaneously (1 tile per GPU). Having 2 GTX 1080s rather than one should come close to halving your rendering time. (the cards can't be in SLI when you want to utilize 2 rendering tiles)**&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard supports CPU and GPU overclocking (includes SLI bridge)&#xD;&#xA; - There's still a sizeable chunk of budget left for upgrades (more ram, additional disks etc...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  **($337.00 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Cooler**: Thermaltake NiC C5 99.1 CFM CPU Cooler  **($58.34 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: MSI Z170A SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  **($132.90 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  **($181.77 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive  **($128.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage**: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  **($72.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  &#xD;&#xA;**($709.14 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)  **($709.14 @ Amazon)** (Access to the dual GPU bandwagon)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optical Drive**: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer  **($17.75 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  **($87.81 @ Amazon)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Case Fan**: Corsair CO-9050016-BLED 52.2 CFM  120mm Fans  **($24.49 @ Amazon)** (It's a 2 pack)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU**: Sentey XPP725-HS Xplus Power Supply 725w Pc Computer ATX Desktop Power Supply **($42.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**: Thermaltake Versa H22 Window CA-1B3-00M1WN-00 Mid-tower Computer Chassis (Black)  **($43.55 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $2603.01&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9KyVY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="b2e8f811-db38-440c-b677-2df471f6be1a" CreationDate="2016-11-17T16:36:02.953" UserId="4953" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm currently relocating once every one or two months and as I have not much luggage space on my &lt;s&gt;car&lt;/s&gt; motorbike, I can't move around my PC and my 26 inches screen and I'm stuck with just my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm thinking to buy a cheap mini projector to plug into the laptop to watch movies and play games and need some advice, as it's a field I've never looked into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Decent screen size, maybe at least a 42 inches?&#xD;&#xA; - Decent resolution, no needs for FullHD but at least something more than a 1366×768 &#xD;&#xA; - HDMI input&#xD;&#xA; - Small. Even better, lightweight.&#xD;&#xA; - Silent&#xD;&#xA; - I have no idea of prices, but if possible...no more than 100 euro?&#xD;&#xA; - decent quality, I need text to be readable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing else, and I mean it literally: I'm ok in trading everything else for the above features. I'll be using it only at night so (reasonably) low lumens is ok, I don't need usb ports, no wifi, nothing nothing nothing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18049" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6240" RevisionGUID="2207e174-6743-4453-90e5-b946fca9964a" CreationDate="2016-11-17T20:53:06.820" UserId="4958" Text="http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/cleankeys-glass-easy-clean-medical-wireless-keyboard.asp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expensive, but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Zero travel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Almost zero force&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- As a bonus, easy to clean (which is what it's marketed for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Last but not least, it has the very important feature of actually being available for sale" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6241" RevisionGUID="58cef4d4-5132-4823-8d00-02e90656c357" CreationDate="2016-11-18T07:20:07.947" UserId="4960" Text="I need to setup FreeNas Server, So I follw this [freenas setup ][1] and collect all the Hardware Details,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What They Used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        Motherboard	      BOXDQ45EK LGA 775&#xD;&#xA;		Processor	      Pentium E2160 processor&#xD;&#xA;		Heatsink /fan	  Fanner-420 heatsink/fan made by MassCool&#xD;&#xA;		Ram 	          1 GB&#xD;&#xA;		Power supply	  400W Rosewill RD400-2-DB&#xD;&#xA;		Hard Drive 	      1TB WD10EZRX&#xD;&#xA;		Ups	              CyberPower CP1000AVRLCD UPS&#xD;&#xA;		Case	          PC-Q11B from Lian Li&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, They used Some Older versions Hardware's, so I try to find out New One Based on our Older Requirement.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I collected Hardware:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;        Motherboard	      Intel BOXDP67BGB3 Socket 1155, Intel P67, CrossFireX &amp; SLI, SATA3&amp;USB3.0, A&amp;GbE, ATX Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;		Processor	      Intel Core i5 6500 Skylake Quad-Core 3.2 GHz LGA 1151 Desktop Processor&#xD;&#xA;		Ram               Kingston -1600MHZ_PC3 (4GB)&#xD;&#xA;		Hard Drive 	      WD Black 1TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch -                 WD1003FZEX &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;		Power supply	  Rosewill ATX 12V 750-Watt 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Power Supply Hive-750 &#xD;&#xA;			&#xD;&#xA;		Heatsink /fan	  MASSCOOL Fanner-420 Thermal Grease Cooling (FANNER-420) &#xD;&#xA;			&#xD;&#xA;		Case	         Lian-Li PC-Q11B Lian-Li Case PC-Q11B Mini Tower 1-0-2 FAN Aluminum USB 3.0 Black Mini-ITX &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Questions Are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** This Mother-Board(**Intel BOXDP67BGB3 Socket 1155, Intel P67, CrossFireX &amp; SLI, SATA3&amp;USB3.0, A&amp;GbE, ATX Motherboard**) can Support  FreeBSD Linux?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.shanekirk.com/2012/08/rolling-your-own-nas-with-freenas-part-two/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6241" RevisionGUID="58cef4d4-5132-4823-8d00-02e90656c357" CreationDate="2016-11-18T07:20:07.947" UserId="4960" Text="FreeNas Support Hareware And Software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6241" RevisionGUID="58cef4d4-5132-4823-8d00-02e90656c357" CreationDate="2016-11-18T07:20:07.947" UserId="4960" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6242" RevisionGUID="6117951e-9b71-455c-92fb-73ef5e96f3af" CreationDate="2016-11-18T08:37:51.730" UserId="1618" Text="I've seen people use that board so it does work. I don't have any experience with it so I can't tell you how &quot;plug-and-play&quot; it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your motherboard and your processor don't match though, so you will be unable to use that hardware together." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6241" RevisionGUID="7e94dfe6-d514-460e-b8db-fbd228d6c66b" CreationDate="2016-11-18T09:19:18.507" UserId="4960" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I need to setup FreeNas Server, So I follw this [freenas setup ][1] and collect all the Hardware Details,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What They Used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        Motherboard	      BOXDQ45EK LGA 775&#xD;&#xA;		Processor	      Pentium E2160 processor&#xD;&#xA;		Heatsink /fan	  Fanner-420 heatsink/fan made by MassCool&#xD;&#xA;		Ram 	          1 GB&#xD;&#xA;		Power supply	  400W Rosewill RD400-2-DB&#xD;&#xA;		Hard Drive 	      1TB WD10EZRX&#xD;&#xA;		Ups	              CyberPower CP1000AVRLCD UPS&#xD;&#xA;		Case	          PC-Q11B from Lian Li&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, They used Some Older versions Hardware's, so I try to find out New One Based on our Older Requirement.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I collected Hardware:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;        Motherboard	      Intel BOXDP67BGB3 Socket 1155, Intel P67, CrossFireX &amp; SLI, SATA3&amp;USB3.0, A&amp;GbE, ATX Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;		Processor	      Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155 - BX80637I53570K &#xD;&#xA;		Ram               Kingston -1600MHZ_PC3 (4GB)&#xD;&#xA;		Hard Drive 	      WD Black 1TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch -                 WD1003FZEX &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;		Power supply	  Rosewill ATX 12V 750-Watt 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Power Supply Hive-750 &#xD;&#xA;			&#xD;&#xA;		Heatsink /fan	  MASSCOOL Fanner-420 Thermal Grease Cooling (FANNER-420) &#xD;&#xA;			&#xD;&#xA;		Case	         Lian-Li PC-Q11B Lian-Li Case PC-Q11B Mini Tower 1-0-2 FAN Aluminum USB 3.0 Black Mini-ITX &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Questions Are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** This Mother-Board(**Intel BOXDP67BGB3 Socket 1155, Intel P67, CrossFireX &amp; SLI, SATA3&amp;USB3.0, A&amp;GbE, ATX Motherboard**) can Support  FreeBSD Linux?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.shanekirk.com/2012/08/rolling-your-own-nas-with-freenas-part-two/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6241" RevisionGUID="5de6ac33-7d07-4965-b619-7d16974b52df" CreationDate="2016-11-18T10:31:55.230" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6245" RevisionGUID="a22128b7-8541-4d61-9ee2-5739500ddcc0" CreationDate="2016-11-18T13:59:49.527" UserId="4967" Text="Hardwarerecs,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;we make devices that capture and handle sensor data. Our base unit is a wireless dock that charges our specialized tablet, and has two inputs (DC voltage and Ethernet (RJ-45)), no outputs, disregarding the built in wireless access point. Now we need a printer to distribute that can print out this data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we need is a wireless printer that is above all reliable (in connecting as in printing) and relatively easy to set up - without connecting it to a computer first (should it come to that, we might consider a one-time USB connection, but would rather avoid it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Color printing is requested, but not necessary, size does matter - the smaller the better. Speed should be above at least 10 ppm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thermal printers are to be avoided if possible, but not at all costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked across a lot of printers, but can barely find any with reliable reviews - so I would like to hear from those of you that actually own/produce/distribute such a printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick recap:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi connection&#xD;&#xA;- Configurable without a PC connection (SD card, NFC, USB, doesn't matter, so long as it is as simple as possible. We can preconfigure our wireless AP.)&#xD;&#xA;- Color or BW printing&#xD;&#xA;- As small as possible&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely reliable&#xD;&#xA;- To be mass produced for a while, so we can include it with our products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Matija" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6245" RevisionGUID="a22128b7-8541-4d61-9ee2-5739500ddcc0" CreationDate="2016-11-18T13:59:49.527" UserId="4967" Text="Looking for reliable wireless printer for redistribution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6245" RevisionGUID="a22128b7-8541-4d61-9ee2-5739500ddcc0" CreationDate="2016-11-18T13:59:49.527" UserId="4967" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6245" RevisionGUID="3d1f2e4e-6107-4364-94b3-7f9d3ea3483b" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:16:01.953" UserId="4967" Comment="deleted 17 characters in body" Text="We make devices that capture and handle sensor data. Our base unit is a wireless dock that charges our specialized tablet, and has two inputs (DC voltage and Ethernet (RJ-45)), no outputs, disregarding the built in wireless access point. Now we need a printer to distribute that can print out this data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we need is a wireless printer that is above all reliable (in connecting as in printing) and relatively easy to set up - without connecting it to a computer first (should it come to that, we might consider a one-time USB connection, but would rather avoid it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Color printing is requested, but not necessary, size does matter - the smaller the better. Speed should be above at least 10 ppm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thermal printers are to be avoided if possible, but not at all costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked across a lot of printers, but can barely find any with reliable reviews - so I would like to hear from those of you that actually own/produce/distribute such a printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick recap:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi connection&#xD;&#xA;- Configurable without a PC connection (SD card, NFC, USB, doesn't matter, so long as it is as simple as possible. We can preconfigure our wireless AP.)&#xD;&#xA;- Color or BW printing&#xD;&#xA;- As small as possible&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely reliable&#xD;&#xA;- To be mass produced for a while, so we can include it with our products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Matija" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6246" RevisionGUID="73f6d764-bf9e-48fa-8dcd-fb9c79aeb08f" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:17:22.720" UserId="4966" Text="I have an HP proliant micro server sitting in my home office and I want to stream photos and videos off this device and display it on my TV in another room.  The TV also sits next to an ethernet hub and my preference is to connect the TV to network via this hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is an output device that will sit on the network to talk to the server and provide an HDMI/1080p output to the TV.   I am currently planning on using [FreeNAS][1] on the serve up the data, (but I am not bound to that), so the solution would need to be able to browse/select the media to play.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also don't need this device to do anything else other than serve up data from the NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.freenas.org" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18074" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6246" RevisionGUID="73f6d764-bf9e-48fa-8dcd-fb9c79aeb08f" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:17:22.720" UserId="4966" Text="Ethernet to HDMI output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18075" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6246" RevisionGUID="73f6d764-bf9e-48fa-8dcd-fb9c79aeb08f" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:17:22.720" UserId="4966" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18076" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="5799" RevisionGUID="98cb90c5-76eb-45a1-8703-9f7631c6cc43" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:58:37.463" UserId="219" Comment="45" />
  <row Id="18080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6248" RevisionGUID="8bfcc901-2d91-4979-9546-d37fa1ba905a" CreationDate="2016-11-18T15:41:24.883" UserId="4968" Text="I have a starter basic PC Build am working on that might help get you started. The idea is for performance, gaming, and game development, etc. If you upscale the power supply with a graphics card in SLI, that should be suitable to your rendering and baking needs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[First PC Build][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://holodreams.wordpress.com/pc-building/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I took the liberty of posting the hardware requirements for such a PC, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the production hardware requirements from Wikipedia: &#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blender_(software)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64-bit eight core CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual OpenGL 3.2 compatible cards with 4 GB video RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual 1920×1080 pixels, 24-bit color&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Three-button mouse and graphics tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18090" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6252" RevisionGUID="746d8679-1339-4d54-b060-d9021d2a4c58" CreationDate="2016-11-18T18:30:54.607" UserId="4970" Text="I recently bought an LG 49UH6030 4K TV. I've also had for quite a while a Creative Inspire T6600 6.1 surround sound speaker system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My TV has a mini-jack output and an optical output. I would really like to use all the channels of the surround speaker system so the mini-jack is not really an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been checking for options to convert the optical output to the three-jack cables that come with the T6600 input. All I've been able to find are external sound cards for PC which are able to do that but need to be connected to a PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I currently don't have a PC constantly connected to my TV (would like to later on) what kind of device could I use to convert the sound output? Of course, budget-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this thing][1], but since I've never used one I don't know if the USB connection is for drivers and stuff or just for power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas or recommendations? I mean I'm pretty happy with the sound of the TV, but the speakers are even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-External-Surround-Recording-Compatible/dp/B013256ODG/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_10?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=375JYWWR7M2CBBQMMHT9 &quot;external sound card&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6252" RevisionGUID="746d8679-1339-4d54-b060-d9021d2a4c58" CreationDate="2016-11-18T18:30:54.607" UserId="4970" Text="Is it possible to connect a TV to a PC surround sound system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6252" RevisionGUID="746d8679-1339-4d54-b060-d9021d2a4c58" CreationDate="2016-11-18T18:30:54.607" UserId="4970" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18099" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6254" RevisionGUID="9b25820a-7b81-4d04-a66a-4c28734ed8ce" CreationDate="2016-11-18T20:38:00.010" UserId="4504" Text="This one is under budget, and meets all of your other criteria. Seems like a solid little piece of hardware, I might pick one up...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sounds like your travelling alot. I would consider getting a small bit of [projector cloth][1] and 4 push pins. I doubt hotel staff would see the pin holes, and it would make your experience with any projector better. You can cut the cloth down to the size you'd prefer, or just let the remainder hang loose. When your done, it should fold up nicely and go back into your bag.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Crenova Mini Projector][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Projection-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479501361&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=projector%20cloth&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-XPE470-Projector-Outdoor-Smartphone/dp/B01FJFTNB2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479501079&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mini%20projector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="540eae8f-d24f-4897-aa68-9b35c590b392" CreationDate="2016-11-19T01:58:24.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18120" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4275" RevisionGUID="f3ae8530-f2f0-45db-b9a4-b49bbc0fd5c6" CreationDate="2016-11-19T10:23:38.760" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18121" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="944b0f6e-1550-4913-8119-4900fa89bc3f" CreationDate="2016-11-19T11:23:39.007" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6264" RevisionGUID="27a32294-be41-4920-80ee-bbae32bc4ab6" CreationDate="2016-11-20T19:45:08.033" UserId="56" Text="A friend of mine desperately needs a new computer. His current device has lasted for over 10 years and I'm aiming for the new one to match this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He and his wife have reached a respectable age. The device doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and should preferably 'run forever' without hassle. Which basically boils down to it should be able to perform basic tasks for as long as possible without requiring 2 minutes to launch a web browser, open a PDF or load a map with pictures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since, basically, that's all it's going to be used for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding something meeting those (vague) criteria isn't hard. Finding something that will likely meet those criteria in 10 years is a different story. My guess is I should stick with the 'recent' tech and keep it simple.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I've found a tower for € 415, which is within budget (€ 450 preferred, € 500 tops) with the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* i3-6100 3.7 GHz CPU&#xD;&#xA;* 4 GB DDR4-SDRAM (although I'm not 100% sure, this likely only occupies 1 of 2 RAM slots for easy/cheap extension to 2x4 GB)&#xD;&#xA;* 240 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;* DVD-RW drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Epsilon Deluxe Systeem v2](https://www.afuture.nl/product/4868709/epsilon-deluxe-systeem-v2) (Dutch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard requirements are at least 4th generation CPU 3 GHz, at least 4 GB RAM with room to extend, 200 GB HDD and an optical drive at least capable of reading DVD. But I think this is a nice fit for the other, vaguer requirements as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I missing something obvious in how I specified my target or does anyone have a better idea? Requiring assembly is not a problem, as long as I can be 100% confident it fits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't touched an i3 in years, but IIRC a use-case like this doesn't need anything higher.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm located in the Netherlands." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6264" RevisionGUID="27a32294-be41-4920-80ee-bbae32bc4ab6" CreationDate="2016-11-20T19:45:08.033" UserId="56" Text="Long lasting tower for 70+ couple" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18142" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6264" RevisionGUID="27a32294-be41-4920-80ee-bbae32bc4ab6" CreationDate="2016-11-20T19:45:08.033" UserId="56" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6265" RevisionGUID="cf6e1338-84d7-4380-b944-11df43f867cf" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:17:27.670" UserId="4091" Text="I got an offer to buy a used Core i7-4770 with Asus Motherboard and 16 Gigs of DDR3 RAM for 200 Euros. This offer comes to pass very good because I am thinking about upgrading my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I use an AMD FX-6300 on an MSI Board which recently started having issues on boot. GPU is the Sapphire R9 270X, but I will upgrade to an GTX 1070 soon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question now is, should I take that deal for 200 Euros or should I save some more money to take a new i7-6700 with DDR4 instead. How is the Performance to Value comparison?  &#xD;&#xA;I compared the two CPUs using [CPUBenchmark.net][1] and the Benchmark Points are different by just 200, which does not seem much compared to the difference from my FX-6300 to the i7's (which is about 3k Points difference).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you need some information about my main usage of the PC, I play a lot of games like Rainbow Six Siege, The Division, Overwatch, Paragon (guess that's the cpu-heaviest game of those) and I also do a lot of rendering to MP4 (live and non-live).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=1907&amp;cmp%5B%5D=2598 &quot;CPUBenchmark.net&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6265" RevisionGUID="cf6e1338-84d7-4380-b944-11df43f867cf" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:17:27.670" UserId="4091" Text="i7 4770 Cheap Deal vs i7 6700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18145" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6265" RevisionGUID="cf6e1338-84d7-4380-b944-11df43f867cf" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:17:27.670" UserId="4091" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6267" RevisionGUID="1e13c314-0b16-46bc-a0d5-e503d3245f0d" CreationDate="2016-11-21T12:58:56.070" UserId="4991" Text="Today i planned to Play GTA V on my PC. So i require some Specs for My pc. I have computer/laptop of 2gb RAM that is not enough to play that game. So decided to buys some 4gb RAM for my laptop. Can i Add 2gb RAM and 4gb RAM to make it 2+4=6GB RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6267" RevisionGUID="1e13c314-0b16-46bc-a0d5-e503d3245f0d" CreationDate="2016-11-21T12:58:56.070" UserId="4991" Text="Can I Use Two RAMS of Different Size in Laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6267" RevisionGUID="1e13c314-0b16-46bc-a0d5-e503d3245f0d" CreationDate="2016-11-21T12:58:56.070" UserId="4991" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18152" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6268" RevisionGUID="18eb4e59-a265-4708-b22b-7eb80d311797" CreationDate="2016-11-21T14:06:07.427" UserId="4523" Text="Yes.  You can use two SODIMMS of different capacity.   Case in point, my MSI GL62 shipped with 12GB of ram, an 8GB and a 4GB SODIMM.  The same goes for a Desktop with full length DIMMS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="27eff71f-bbd8-428b-a04d-10d0261b0e61" CreationDate="2016-11-21T18:41:00.160" UserId="4881" Text="I'm looking for a small device (smartphone, netbook etc) to store passwords and other sensitive information. The device never goes online and has to be password-or PIN-protected. The device will be used only infrequently. Other requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- small (ideally not larger than a iPad mini)&#xD;&#xA;- has a hardware QWERTY keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- has a camera&#xD;&#xA;- storage space ist not important, as long as it fits ca. 100 photos and max 1 MB of text&#xD;&#xA;- has an app for taking notes&#xD;&#xA;- ideally with encrypted storage&#xD;&#xA;- costs less than 100 USD/Euro used on Ebay, but preferably less, of course &#xD;&#xA;- makes easy to transfer information out of the device without using an online or cloud solution&#xD;&#xA;- is not a Chinese no-name device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18155" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="27eff71f-bbd8-428b-a04d-10d0261b0e61" CreationDate="2016-11-21T18:41:00.160" UserId="4881" Text="Small, inexpensive offline device with camera for storing secure information" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18156" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="27eff71f-bbd8-428b-a04d-10d0261b0e61" CreationDate="2016-11-21T18:41:00.160" UserId="4881" Text="&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="ebf45fc9-c5cd-48b9-9954-95db0ef1b5a5" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:56:42.560" UserId="4995" Text="I have an old PC with an Intel NIC running Debian all set up for routing with iptables, and it's working pretty well. But I'd like to add wireless, and I'm not sure what card to get. I know I need to make sure the chipset supports AP/host mode on Linux, but other than the bandwidth (at least 300mb will do) I don't really know what kind of specs to look for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what are some good wireless cards that I can use for AP mode? How do I know how much throughput I'll get with several devices connected? The most devices connected at the same time would be around 10. I have two PCIe X1 slots and one PCI slot free. The board also supports USB 2.0. I'm looking for something cheap for now, (around $30 would be great, and I had seen some cards supporting this feature in that range) but I might consider a more high-performance card later on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="ebf45fc9-c5cd-48b9-9954-95db0ef1b5a5" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:56:42.560" UserId="4995" Text="Adding a wireless NIC to a Debian router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="ebf45fc9-c5cd-48b9-9954-95db0ef1b5a5" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:56:42.560" UserId="4995" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18160" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="a39e4903-e163-4340-a8f7-479a6dee9b5b" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:17:02.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18162" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="5b86576b-d239-4b92-8203-0ed4fe8551c9" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:38:06.280" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18163" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6267" RevisionGUID="867395b0-170e-4e73-9430-3f847ca8c665" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:39:07.693" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="13d70b9d-e5ed-4cb2-ab1b-150bdd6ee272" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:58:43.777" UserId="4995" Comment="Rewrote the question, after it was put on hold for being too broad" Text="I'm looking for a wireless network card to add to my Debian router. I'll be using it to create an access point, so it has to have a chipset that supports AP mode on linux. It can be PCIe x1 or PCI and the bandwidth should be at least 300mb. I assume a USB device wouldn't be a good fit for an AP, but the motherboard does support USB 2.0. I'd like something cheap for now, but might consider something more high performance later on. (I've seen some decent-looking cards for around $30)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most devices connected at the same time would be arount 8-10. The part I'm most uncertain about is the performance and throughput. I'm not really sure how to figure out how well a wireless card would perform without testing it, so I'd appreciate any tips about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18166" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6271" RevisionGUID="566ee04d-6888-4151-9a5f-d75fd5cabf89" CreationDate="2016-11-21T22:00:14.007" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18173" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="0cdda421-2384-4457-b2b0-dcfd3b7f308f" CreationDate="2016-11-22T02:22:41.960" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18176" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6275" RevisionGUID="fe70c2da-557f-41af-9abd-fef7d50cf392" CreationDate="2016-11-22T03:37:55.373" UserId="4982" Text="You didn't specify operating system, but the [LG Extravert 2][1] meets all requirements.  Just take the SIM card out.  Has camera.  Has SD Card for exporting data.  Has Qwerty keyboard.  Is small.  Is less than $100.  Is not no name Chinese.  Has an app for notes.  Not sure about encryption,  but there's probably an Android app for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/LG-Extravert-Retail-Packaging-Blue/dp/B00RC7B7DI/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtESU.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6275" RevisionGUID="fd7e3741-6d25-4e72-8d77-d4d62d5659f4" CreationDate="2016-11-22T03:51:36.127" UserId="4982" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="You didn't specify operating system, but the [LG Extravert 2][1] meets all requirements.  Just take the SIM card out.  Has camera.  Has SD Card for exporting data.  Has Qwerty keyboard.  Is small.  Is less than $100.  Is not no name Chinese.  Has an app for notes. Is PIN protected. Not sure about encryption,  but there's probably an Android app for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/LG-Extravert-Retail-Packaging-Blue/dp/B00RC7B7DI/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtESU.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1548" RevisionGUID="651602ca-3223-4565-8649-318d7f77395a" CreationDate="2016-11-22T15:39:43.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="59f9e9ac-a03c-4e0a-b4d2-a422ad04b2ae" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:43:19.137" UserId="5001" Text="So I am ready to finally make the leap to a triple monitor setup.  Shopping for monitors is a horrible experience these days because there is about 9 million options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking about going with either 3 24&quot; or 3 27&quot; Monitors. They must be VESA compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use them for mostly business purposes but I do use Illustrator on a daily basis for basic graphic design&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest questions is about curved monitors.  Does anyone have any experience working with a trip curved Monitor setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is negligible at this point in time on curved vs flat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any drawbacks to the curved monitor setup in this application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice or comments would be much appreciated &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS  I am currently looking at the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF390 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF398 27&quot;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF391 32&quot; (Is this just too big?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other concern is that all the max resolutions are 1920x1080 on these monitors.  I am also not stuck on samsung." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18185" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="59f9e9ac-a03c-4e0a-b4d2-a422ad04b2ae" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:43:19.137" UserId="5001" Text="Curved Monitors Triple Monitor Setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18186" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="59f9e9ac-a03c-4e0a-b4d2-a422ad04b2ae" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:43:19.137" UserId="5001" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6277" RevisionGUID="eec69a69-9d1c-447f-8576-b8ea289bc322" CreationDate="2016-11-22T17:23:58.753" UserId="4043" Text="You have a couple questions in there which may warrant more than one post across multiple SE sites. I'll throw in my experience on the curved display part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use a [Dell U3415W][1], a 34'' curved 60hz 21:9 3440x1440 monitor. It has the more gentle curve (3800r IIRC) than something like the BenQ 3501 (2000r, lower = more extreme curve = more strict viewing position).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my experience the curve has much more of a &quot;....wow!&quot; factor than any sort of practical use however this is likely compounded by just how giant my monitor is. I wouldn't say my workflow has improved necessarily any more than it would if I had gotten a flat-screened monitor, but moving from a pair of 27'' 1080p screens (thus eliminating the bezel gap) and adding pixels has absolutely helped. The window management software is very usable and doesn't really get in the way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be careful about getting a curved display if your design work is anything more than casual as the curve is literally a distortion of the image (albeit minor) and may not reflect the true image with 100% precision. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having triple monitors means you'll need to consider both the number of video outputs on your machine as well as its ability to push the pixels. If you aren't doing anything intense the second point is pretty much null on any processor/gpu. Once you start running games or high res photo/video projects you need to consider how many pixels are really in front of you (1080p = 2,073,600 pixels. 3x 1080p = 6,220,800, 4k = 8,294,400) and at what refresh rate (60hz, 144hz). Horsepower on GPUs/APUs starts to dwindle quickly when you're throwing high resolutions at high framerates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260239" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6278" RevisionGUID="70178502-2498-41e8-99a8-cc4f34d1d436" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:26:13.470" UserId="951" Text="I'm choosing a laptop as a gift for a person who watches a lot of movies, browses internet and does some Excell or World processing. &#xD;&#xA;The strict requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 good LED backlit screen&#xD;&#xA;- at least 4 GB of ram&#xD;&#xA;- good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;- either no system at all (lower cost) or any Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prefered:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i3 or higher, 6 or 7 generation&#xD;&#xA;- no dedicated video card (lower cost, and Intel HD is more than capable for multimedia)&#xD;&#xA;- M.2 SSD + empty place for HDD or HDD mounted (any size)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVD or no&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen quality and audio quality are especially important, as there is no way for a person to plug external speakers or monitor. I am not sure if it's good idea to go Full HD, as the person is used to 1366 x 768 resolution, wears glasses and the videos watched are all in lower resolution. I am sure though, that IPS would be great, however I found it extremly hard to find in this resolution and under the budget of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- budget: 820 $&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently considering Dell Vostro 5568 (i3-7100U/4GB/120 m2 + 500 hdd/ Win 10Pro) or Lenovo Ideapad 700-15 (i5/8GB/120+1000 GTX950M), but have no idea how the both compare in sound quality (I know I know, they're laptops, but there is really no way for external speakers) and display quality. I will appreciate your help with choosing between the two or proposing something else within requirements. Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6278" RevisionGUID="70178502-2498-41e8-99a8-cc4f34d1d436" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:26:13.470" UserId="951" Text="Laptop: self contained multimedia center" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6278" RevisionGUID="70178502-2498-41e8-99a8-cc4f34d1d436" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:26:13.470" UserId="951" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6278" RevisionGUID="f710e80e-de2a-4132-a337-5a5cff96f48c" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:35:01.277" UserId="951" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I'm choosing a laptop as a gift for a person who watches a lot of movies, browses internet and does some Excell or World processing. &#xD;&#xA;The strict requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 good LED backlit screen&#xD;&#xA;- at least 4 GB of ram&#xD;&#xA;- good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;- either no system at all (lower cost) or any Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prefered:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i3 or higher, 6 or 7 generation&#xD;&#xA;- no dedicated video card (lower cost, and Intel HD is more than capable for multimedia)&#xD;&#xA;- M.2 SSD + empty place for HDD or HDD mounted (any size)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVD or no&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen quality and audio quality are especially important, as there is no way for a person to plug external speakers or monitor. I am not sure if it's good idea to go Full HD, as the person is used to 1366 x 768 resolution, wears glasses and the videos watched are all in lower resolution. I am sure though, that IPS would be great, however I found it extremly hard to find in this resolution and under the budget of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- budget: 820 $&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently considering Dell Vostro 5568 (i3-7100U/4GB/120 m2 + 500 hdd/ Win 10Pro) or Lenovo Ideapad 700-15 (i5/8GB/120+1000 GTX950M), but have no idea how the both compare in sound quality (I know I know, they're laptops, but there is really no way for external speakers) and display quality. I will appreciate your help with choosing between the two or proposing something else within requirements. Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6278" RevisionGUID="cbcc3a2d-ad36-4bc4-bc01-c8ae038a667a" CreationDate="2016-11-22T19:20:22.857" UserId="951" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I'm choosing a laptop as a gift for a person who watches a lot of movies, browses internet and does some Excell or World processing. &#xD;&#xA;The strict requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 good LED backlit, matte screen&#xD;&#xA;- at least 4 GB of ram&#xD;&#xA;- good sound quality&#xD;&#xA;- either no system at all (lower cost) or any Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prefered:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IPS screen&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i3 or higher, 6 or 7 generation&#xD;&#xA;- no dedicated video card (lower cost, and Intel HD is more than capable for multimedia)&#xD;&#xA;- M.2 SSD + empty place for HDD or HDD mounted (any size)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVD or lack thereof&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen quality and audio quality are especially important, as there is no way for a person to plug external speakers or monitor. I am not sure if it's good idea to go Full HD, as the person is used to 1366 x 768 resolution, wears glasses and the videos watched are all in lower resolution. I am sure though, that IPS would be great, however I found it extremly hard to find in this resolution and under the budget of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- budget: 820 $&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell Vostro 5568&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo Ideapad 700-15&#xD;&#xA; - HP ProBook 450 G3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but have no idea how they compare in sound quality (I know I know, they're laptops, but there is really no way for external speakers) and display quality. I will appreciate your help with choosing between the three or proposing something else within requirements. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="3088b83c-7360-4564-a71f-b80cbd6941d6" CreationDate="2016-11-22T19:36:08.630" UserId="5003" Text="I asked my question over at SuperUser, but was directed here instead. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently looking for a new Router/AP for my office, but since I live in Norway there isn't a lot of stored/webstores that cater to professional or small business needs. I called one such store and after explaining my needs, the woman on the other end recommended me getting either a TP-Link Talon or the Linksys EA9500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue I have with either is that I cannot for the life of me find out if they have any additional wireless network segmentation capabilities. Creation of multiple SSIDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rent my office space together with (at times) upwards of 20 other people, like a little office community. Most of these people run their own small business or are freelancers and one request that many wanted was the ability to have their own &quot;space&quot; on the network. Their own SSID that they have the password to and can connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not dabbed this much into Networking before so I'm unsure where to look for pieces of this puzzle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store I'm looking at [can be found here][1] and translates almost perfectly to English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if none of the routers above support setting up multiple SSIDs like my office mates want, I was thinking about buying an Access Point on top of the router. Whenever I try searching online, it seems like most people recommend the Ubiquiti APs, I also want to avoid cables wherever I can so the AP being wireless helps a ton. How does Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC LR compare against the Zyxel NWA1123-AC for my usage? I have a hard time believing we'll need more than (at maximum) 20 SSIDs at any given time at our current location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I'm waddling blind here. I appreciate any help and insight I can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.komplett.no/category/10273/datautstyr/nettverksprodukter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="3088b83c-7360-4564-a71f-b80cbd6941d6" CreationDate="2016-11-22T19:36:08.630" UserId="5003" Text="Decision on Router and/or AP capable of multiple SSIDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18195" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="3088b83c-7360-4564-a71f-b80cbd6941d6" CreationDate="2016-11-22T19:36:08.630" UserId="5003" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="c3b1795f-ab50-424b-967a-4b0c386a4e27" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:20:23.183" UserId="5003" Comment="Corrected spelling, split the question(s)" Text="I asked my question over at SuperUser, but was directed here instead. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently looking for a new Router for my office, but since I live in Norway there isn't a lot of stores/webstores that cater to professional or small business needs. I called one such store out of the few we have and after explaining my needs, the woman on the other end recommended me getting either a TP-Link Talon or the Linksys EA9500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue I have with either is that I cannot for the life of me find out if they have any additional wireless network segmentation capabilities. Creation of multiple SSIDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rent my office space together with (at times) upwards of 20 other people, like a little office community. Most of these people run their own small business or are freelancers and one request that many wanted was the ability to have their own &quot;space&quot; on the network. Their own SSID that they have the password to and can connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not dabbed this much into Networking before so I'm unsure where to look for pieces of this puzzle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store I'm looking at [can be found here][1] and translates almost perfectly to English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I'm waddling blind here. I appreciate any help and insight I can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.komplett.no/category/10273/datautstyr/nettverksprodukter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="c3b1795f-ab50-424b-967a-4b0c386a4e27" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:20:23.183" UserId="5003" Comment="Corrected spelling, split the question(s)" Text="Decision on Router for small business(es)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18198" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="c3b1795f-ab50-424b-967a-4b0c386a4e27" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:20:23.183" UserId="5003" Comment="Corrected spelling, split the question(s)" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6281" RevisionGUID="39cb8e54-a644-42d5-a71a-e9ab8b4fb482" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:42:33.070" UserId="5003" Text="You can find a question I asked that's [related to this here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rent my office space together with (at times) upwards of 20 other people, like a little office community. Most of these people run their own small business or are freelancers and one request that many wanted was the ability to have their own &quot;space&quot; on the network. Their own SSID that they have the password to and can connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently looking for a new Router/AP for my office, but since I live in Norway there isn't a lot of stored/webstores that cater to professional or small business needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not dabbed this much into Networking before so I'm unsure where to look for pieces of this puzzle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store I'm looking at [can be found here][2] and translates almost perfectly to English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the routers from the other question support setting up multiple SSIDs like my office mates want, I was thinking about buying an Access Point on top of the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whenever I search online, it seems like most people recommend the Ubiquiti APs, the only pet-peeve I have is that I want to avoid cables wherever I can, it's preferable that the AP is wireless and not cabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, how would the Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC LR which to my understanding supports up to 8 SSIDs compare against the Zyxel NWA1123-AC (I read the Zyxel supports up to 16 SSIDs?) for my usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a hard time believing we'll need more than (at maximum) 20 SSIDs at the peak in our current location if that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very open to other suggestions as well as long as it's available at the website I provided above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm struggling. I appreciate any help and insight I can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6279/decision-on-router-for-small-businesses&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.komplett.no/category/10273/datautstyr/nettverksprodukter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6281" RevisionGUID="39cb8e54-a644-42d5-a71a-e9ab8b4fb482" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:42:33.070" UserId="5003" Text="Access Point with multi-SSID support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6281" RevisionGUID="39cb8e54-a644-42d5-a71a-e9ab8b4fb482" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:42:33.070" UserId="5003" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="31" RevisionGUID="d16bc23d-fce4-4ff3-8c4c-949c92ba2c29" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:42:52.140" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6279" RevisionGUID="35121be3-146e-4bfe-ae3e-37d4dfd8e74b" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:50:32.590" UserId="5003" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="I asked my question over at SuperUser, but was directed here instead. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently looking for a new Router for my office, but since I live in Norway there isn't a lot of stores/webstores that cater to professional or small business needs. I called one such store out of the few we have and after explaining my needs, the woman on the other end recommended me getting either a TP-Link Talon AD7200 or the Asus RT-AC88U.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue I have with either is that I cannot for the life of me find out if they have any additional wireless network segmentation capabilities. Creation of multiple SSIDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rent my office space together with (at times) upwards of 20 other people, like a little office community. Most of these people run their own small business or are freelancers and one request that many wanted was the ability to have their own &quot;space&quot; on the network. Their own SSID that they have the password to and can connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not dabbed this much into Networking before so I'm unsure where to look for pieces of this puzzle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store I'm looking at [can be found here][1] and translates almost perfectly to English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I'm waddling blind here. I appreciate any help and insight I can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.komplett.no/category/10273/datautstyr/nettverksprodukter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="f34dfc5d-d766-40db-a863-1b7e5f987c57" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:08:04.283" UserId="5001" Comment="Added more specific questions and Detail" Text="So I am ready to finally make the leap to a triple monitor setup.  Shopping for monitors is a horrible experience these days because there is about 9 million options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking about going with either 3 24&quot; or 3 27&quot; Monitors. They must be VESA compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use them for mostly business purposes but I do use Illustrator on a daily basis for basic graphic design&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest questions is about curved monitors.  Does anyone have any experience working with a trip curved Monitor setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price is negligible at this point in time on curved vs flat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any drawbacks to the curved monitor setup in this application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice or comments would be much appreciated &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS  I am currently looking at the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF390 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF398 27&quot;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung CF391 32&quot; (Is this just too big?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other concern is that all the max resolutions are 1920x1080 on these monitors.  I am also not stuck on samsung.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDITS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the comments so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphic design would be considered more casual.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bezel Gap is not a big deal for me.  In fact I prefer the break between the screens to help separate the applications (That being said I have never used a minimal bezel monitor)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not play games or use any graphically intensive applications.  Illustrator would be the most intense of the applications on the GPU (and that is not much)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is open but I am trying to stay around or under 1000$ for the 3 monitors.  (Have to have money for the mount)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really am not sure I am ready to make the leap to a single or double ultrawide.  I feel like with my current work load that the 3 screens will be a better fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cfinley: I am only about 24&quot; away from the monitors so I am really starting to lean away from the 32&quot; option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other options in the 24-27&quot; range on curved monitors other than samsung?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="18219" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="172" RevisionGUID="6b6666b0-5961-4a16-b1cf-d9f78981f221" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:10:52.623" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18220" PostHistoryTypeId="15" PostId="172" RevisionGUID="81c55d38-3f05-45ae-bdd0-d10bb3f7e1e8" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:10:52.623" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18221" PostHistoryTypeId="20" PostId="171" RevisionGUID="37d52497-dddf-4da9-aa66-68e505dbdf5c" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:11:43.210" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18236" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="ff337064-1f9b-4005-ba1c-c9c9f5d7c49b" CreationDate="2016-11-23T07:51:30.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6287" RevisionGUID="dc8432a9-6927-4e82-8807-e379eff4dd58" CreationDate="2016-11-23T09:36:28.320" UserId="951" Text="The answer to your question can be opinion based and I am not going to take that road. Hovewer I'll argue, that it is worth buying newer hardware for 'future-proofing' like: DDR4 support, Microsoft presumably says it's dropping Windows 10 support for older hardware than Skylake ([source][1]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, the 200 Euro deal you describe is indeed profitable, and the hardware will serve your purpose for years to come (especially when paired with 1080).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The choice is still up to you though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/16/10780876/microsoft-windows-support-policy-new-processors-skylake" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6288" RevisionGUID="be715cea-72ab-47d3-b47c-defc5598bb45" CreationDate="2016-11-23T12:15:48.707" UserId="527" Text="Please recommend a USB3 hub with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. At least 4 USB3 ports.&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Individual toggles (switches) for each port.**&#xD;&#xA; 1. No LED lights, unless they can be easily disabled or cleanly obscured with electrical tape.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable for data transfer onto USB3 storage devices.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Compact size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hub can be powered, or non-powered.  Either is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less expensive is preferred, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prefer black, gray, or silver, but any color is acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18243" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6288" RevisionGUID="be715cea-72ab-47d3-b47c-defc5598bb45" CreationDate="2016-11-23T12:15:48.707" UserId="527" Text="USB3 Hub with Individual Toggles (Switches) for each Port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6288" RevisionGUID="be715cea-72ab-47d3-b47c-defc5598bb45" CreationDate="2016-11-23T12:15:48.707" UserId="527" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="18251" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6288" RevisionGUID="f1683df7-f8e0-4c6e-9b98-6d8a935ed063" CreationDate="2016-11-24T02:01:34.147" UserId="527" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="3cd73ca2-5a10-4531-8e24-22c092a5090a" CreationDate="2016-11-24T14:37:10.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6293" RevisionGUID="d207fe75-1029-4cc7-a361-1613537fd44b" CreationDate="2016-11-24T15:47:03.163" UserId="5021" Text="I use my Google Nexus 6P to take some HDR+ photos while travelling, and it drains considerable battery power. I am looking for a power bank probably 20000 mAh or more. But I am not aware of any particular one that charges my phone &quot;rapidly&quot; similar to power adaptor using USB Type C port. It would be great If I could charge the power bank itself rapidly as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can any one please suggest any power bank to me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6293" RevisionGUID="d207fe75-1029-4cc7-a361-1613537fd44b" CreationDate="2016-11-24T15:47:03.163" UserId="5021" Text="Power Bank Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6293" RevisionGUID="d207fe75-1029-4cc7-a361-1613537fd44b" CreationDate="2016-11-24T15:47:03.163" UserId="5021" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6293" RevisionGUID="f1742915-6cd0-4592-8ff5-6b7b8f9674e9" CreationDate="2016-11-24T19:35:48.473" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="I use my Google Nexus 6P to take some HDR+ photos while travelling, and it drains considerable battery power. I am looking for a power bank probably 20000 mAh or more. But I am not aware of any particular one that charges my phone &quot;rapidly&quot; similar to power adaptor using USB Type C port. It would be great If I could charge the power bank itself rapidly as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can any one please suggest any power bank to me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18274" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="3a1a66ce-a79f-49f1-98ed-7b24dda01429" CreationDate="2016-11-24T20:37:32.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18280" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1925" RevisionGUID="ba823e27-c490-4d1e-a674-1246dfb56a28" CreationDate="2016-11-24T21:37:32.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6298" RevisionGUID="865d93e5-eb7e-4fbf-b8f1-f1ff2740c5dc" CreationDate="2016-11-25T00:28:40.287" UserId="4841" Text="My favourite by far is the [mbeat 7 port][1] hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4xUSB_3.0 + 3xUSB_2.0 - actually the USB 2's are really handy for incompatible Logitech gear.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Individual switches&#xD;&#xA; 3. Dull LEDs on the top that can be covered.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Good throughput - see my wiring layout below.&#xD;&#xA; 5. NOT compact, but its flat, with all ports along the one side - so its good to attach to the back of the table and use as a permanent dock/expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the AC adapter, but I just tested it without (I even plugged in an extra USB3-stick to see if I could trip it, and its fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my usage to give you an idea of continual bandwith.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  7_U3 &gt; [USB3 AV breakout box][2] with HDMI, DVI, Analog audio used.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  6_U3 &gt; USB3 HDD (powered, WD3TB).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  5_U3 &gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Spare&lt;/kbd&gt; (for USB-sticks and the likes).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  4_U3 &gt; Micro-USB lead for fast-charging my devices.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  3_U2 &gt; Multi-charger lead for random devices that come across my desk.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  2_U2 &gt; Logi G100 Keyboard &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  1_U2 &gt; Logi M100 Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I use the toggles a lot for disconnecting the HDD or stop charging devices, or to temporarily disconnect phones etc that I am testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/18565/mbeat-7-port-usb-3-0-powered-hub-with-switches/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.displaylink.com/integrated-chipsets/dl-3000&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=multi%20usb%20charger%20lead&amp;safe=off&amp;biw=1920&amp;bih=974&amp;tbm=isch&amp;source=lnms&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjbrrXb0sLQAhWDto8KHaFpBOkQ_AUIxgEoAQ#imgrc=Y526SJ8bykONjM%3A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6299" RevisionGUID="948bed8b-b1e7-4fb0-b37c-8943d0557b91" CreationDate="2016-11-25T00:45:18.327" UserId="4841" Text="You NEEEEEEEEEEED NEED NEED NEED the newer chip for rendering.&#xD;&#xA;I shall weigh up the + / - as if we refer to upgrading to the newer CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**-** It has been shown on TOM's hardware many times that there is little difference for gaming, due to the CPU clock-speed being a big factor in games still. Consider this a small minus as CPU has VERY little effect on game performance (it's all about GPU, baby!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**-** You will need to buy new RAM as you stated, and it's not really much better in performance for games... Video it is, but only a little bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** Power usage / thermal control is a LOT better on the 6000's, so it will distract your gaming a lot less with quieter fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** Video encoding MUCH faster on the new i7's if the software is optimised for it (it will be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** (this is the one that got me) Upgrading Mobo means you get all the sweet new features such as USB3.1 and type-C connectors. Future-you will thank you for this investment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, EUR200 is too much for that old CPU. I mean, performance-per-dollar it's OK, but if you really look hard for second-hand machines you will find one (probably with case and PSU) for half that price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6299" RevisionGUID="f2ee7ed1-c893-4be2-9576-27b6cd0fd908" CreationDate="2016-11-25T01:24:41.640" UserId="8" Comment="maybe that was over-egging it a little" Text="You should *seriously* consider the newer chip for rendering.&#xD;&#xA;I shall weigh up the + / - as if we refer to upgrading to the newer CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**-** It has been shown on TOM's hardware many times that there is little difference for gaming, due to the CPU clock-speed being a big factor in games still. Consider this a small minus as CPU has VERY little effect on game performance (it's all about GPU, baby!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**-** You will need to buy new RAM as you stated, and it's not really much better in performance for games... Video it is, but only a little bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** Power usage / thermal control is a LOT better on the 6000's, so it will distract your gaming a lot less with quieter fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** Video encoding MUCH faster on the new i7's if the software is optimised for it (it will be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**+** (this is the one that got me) Upgrading Mobo means you get all the sweet new features such as USB3.1 and type-C connectors. Future-you will thank you for this investment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, EUR200 is too much for that old CPU. I mean, performance-per-dollar it's OK, but if you really look hard for second-hand machines you will find one (probably with case and PSU) for half that price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18296" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="b4432289-afc6-412a-a84f-e41ac062a94b" CreationDate="2016-11-25T05:44:16.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6303" RevisionGUID="d998a5f4-c99b-4b66-9821-2220f94bb67e" CreationDate="2016-11-25T06:45:20.737" UserId="4607" Text="I am planning to buy a gaming laptop and I have narrowed them down to these two laptops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GE62VR Apache Pro-001][1] - Price Around $1200 - $1300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GP62VR Leopard Pro-218][2] - Price Around $1100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am sure that I need a gtx 1060, given how poor of choice it would be to take a 900 series gpu based laptop now. Also I need a 1080p laptop (since I need only a 15.6 inch screen and I feel that a higher resolution at this size is not that noticeable) itself, so going for a higher end gpu like a 1070 is probably overkill for a 1080p laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only major difference between them is the VRAM. For GE62VR there is a 6 GB VRAM for 1060 gpu, but for GP62VR there is only 3 GB VRAM and I read that the extra 3 GB is not that needed, at least for the next 3-4 years to come (correct me if I am wrong). Also one more thing that bugs me is the fact that there are no reviews about GP62VR, so I am not sure if it's a good laptop. However the GE62VR has many good reviews online, but the GP62VR is a bit cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So given the circumstances, and my current budget of about $1100 - $1300, which of these two laptops would you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. On a side note, for my budget, would you suggest a different 1080p, GTX 1060 laptop altogether aside from these two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GE62VR-Apache-Pro-001-i7-6700HQ/dp/B01IO9Y3A6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GP62MVR-Leopard-Pro-218-i7-6700HQ/dp/B01M0COXDI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6303" RevisionGUID="d998a5f4-c99b-4b66-9821-2220f94bb67e" CreationDate="2016-11-25T06:45:20.737" UserId="4607" Text="Which of these two laptops is better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6303" RevisionGUID="d998a5f4-c99b-4b66-9821-2220f94bb67e" CreationDate="2016-11-25T06:45:20.737" UserId="4607" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6303" RevisionGUID="72509ef0-f79b-4282-818b-948f860fbb26" CreationDate="2016-11-25T07:39:34.910" UserId="4607" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text="I am planning to buy a gaming laptop and I have narrowed them down to these two laptops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GE62VR Apache Pro-001][1] - Price Around $1200 - $1300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GP62VR Leopard Pro-218][2] - Price Around $1100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am sure that I need a gtx 1060, given how poor of choice it would be to take a 900 series gpu based laptop now. Also I need a 1080p laptop (since I need only a 15.6 inch screen and I feel that a higher resolution at this size is not that noticeable) itself, so going for a higher end gpu like a 1070 is probably overkill for a 1080p laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only major difference between them is the VRAM. For GE62VR there is a 6 GB VRAM for 1060 gpu, but for GP62VR there is only 3 GB VRAM and I read that the extra 3 GB is not that needed, at least for the next 3-4 years to come (correct me if I am wrong). Also one more thing that bugs me is the fact that there are no reviews about GP62VR, so I am not sure if it's a good laptop. However the GE62VR has many good reviews online, but the GP62VR is a bit cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So given the circumstances, and my current budget of about $1100 - $1300, which of these two laptops would you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. On a side note, for my budget, would you suggest a different 1080p, GTX 1060 laptop altogether aside from these two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: &#xD;&#xA;I plan on using the laptop for gaming and maybe learning 3d modeling, game design etc in future, so I may run cinema 4d, blender, adobe products in future but only as a hobbyist or a beginner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GE62VR-Apache-Pro-001-i7-6700HQ/dp/B01IO9Y3A6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GP62MVR-Leopard-Pro-218-i7-6700HQ/dp/B01M0COXDI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18301" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="85bccdb7-e340-4438-bb8b-af6f0b8238fc" CreationDate="2016-11-25T07:44:41.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18316" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="1c40a5ff-a149-4867-804b-b91d7c6a4267" CreationDate="2016-11-25T15:48:02.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6306" RevisionGUID="078f5d76-7d5f-413c-b61f-8cea88c4ce1d" CreationDate="2016-11-25T17:24:29.900" UserId="5031" Text="I have a basic laptop - an eMachines E732Z. It has an Intel Pentium P6200 processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to run a 64-bit virtual machine, but I can't because the processor doesn't support VT-x.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I therefore want to upgrade the processor to one that supports hardware virtualisation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel rather than AMD (but only because I've never fitted a new processor before and I don't want to find that an AMD doesn't fit on the motherboard. If this requirement is unnecessary it can be waived).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- As cheap as possible. Virtualisation-support is my only requirement; I don't require any other upgrade in performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have researched chips already in terms of features and price, but there are so many options and features that I don't understand (this would be my first ever hardware-component purchase, I'm a real beginner with this stuff) it's hard to find just a basic upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6306" RevisionGUID="078f5d76-7d5f-413c-b61f-8cea88c4ce1d" CreationDate="2016-11-25T17:24:29.900" UserId="5031" Text="Budget processor that supports hardware virtualisation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6306" RevisionGUID="078f5d76-7d5f-413c-b61f-8cea88c4ce1d" CreationDate="2016-11-25T17:24:29.900" UserId="5031" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="f5e2ec9e-55b7-47c9-9183-c91c183ed063" CreationDate="2016-11-25T19:17:25.313" UserId="5001" Text="I am looking for some recommendations for my new I7 Build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I use it for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Day to day business work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications open at once**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustator&#xD;&#xA; - Firefox (11 Tabs)&#xD;&#xA; - Chrome (5-10 Windows / 10-20 Tabs in each)&#xD;&#xA; - Skype&#xD;&#xA; - QQ Messenger&#xD;&#xA; - Jitsi (VOIP Dialer)&#xD;&#xA; - Outlook&#xD;&#xA; - Notepad ++&#xD;&#xA; - Windows Photo Viewer (typically 3-10 images)&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon S3 Viewer&#xD;&#xA; - Excel (3-10 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Word (1-2 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Open VPN&#xD;&#xA; - One Drive&#xD;&#xA; - FileZila&#xD;&#xA; - BitVise&#xD;&#xA; - Windows explorer (3-5 Windows)&#xD;&#xA; - Calculator (thought i would throw this in to be accurate)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Occasionally Open**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Edge&#xD;&#xA; - Internet Explorer&#xD;&#xA; - Acrobat&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Bridge (this could be more frequent in the future)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Visualization Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I will be using 3 Monitors at 1920x1080 Resolution but I will be wanting to add a 4th in the very near future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Looking for recommendations here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originally I was planning on doing this build under 1000 but now I am thinking i am going to end up in the 1500 range.  I have money to burn but I don't like burning it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I know I want**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7 Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32GB Ram (Dual Channel if I go 6700 quad if i go 6800)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;500GB SSD or NVMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PLAIN Case (its a business not an art show)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU that can handle my quad monitor setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Type C Port on MB (Unless someone has a reason why not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Current Conflicts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7-6700K vs I7-6800K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Air Cooled vs Water Cooled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR4 3000 vs Faster&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sata SSD vs NVMe SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Areas where I have not a clue**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU&#xD;&#xA;PSU (I do know how to add so my plan was to take everything add up the wattage and give my self about 20% head room)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="f5e2ec9e-55b7-47c9-9183-c91c183ed063" CreationDate="2016-11-25T19:17:25.313" UserId="5001" Text="I7 Build I am conflicted" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="f5e2ec9e-55b7-47c9-9183-c91c183ed063" CreationDate="2016-11-25T19:17:25.313" UserId="5001" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="f3138bfc-d9c2-43cf-ac07-360a7ec16f95" CreationDate="2016-11-25T20:03:36.570" UserId="5001" Comment="Corrected formatting and added Missing information" Text="I am looking for some recommendations for my new I7 Build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I use it for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Day to day business work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications open at once**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustator&#xD;&#xA; - Firefox (11 Tabs)&#xD;&#xA; - Chrome (5-10 Windows / 10-20 Tabs in each)&#xD;&#xA; - Skype&#xD;&#xA; - QQ Messenger&#xD;&#xA; - Jitsi (VOIP Dialer)&#xD;&#xA; - Outlook&#xD;&#xA; - Notepad ++&#xD;&#xA; - Windows Photo Viewer (typically 3-10 images)&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon S3 Viewer&#xD;&#xA; - Excel (3-10 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Word (1-2 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Open VPN&#xD;&#xA; - One Drive&#xD;&#xA; - FileZila&#xD;&#xA; - BitVise&#xD;&#xA; - Windows explorer (3-5 Windows)&#xD;&#xA; - Calculator (thought i would throw this in to be accurate)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Occasionally Open**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Edge&#xD;&#xA; - Internet Explorer&#xD;&#xA; - Acrobat&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Bridge (this could be more frequent in the future)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Visualization Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I will be using 3 Monitors at 1920x1080 Resolution but I will be wanting to add a 4th in the very near future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Looking for recommendations here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originally I was planning on doing this build under 1000 but now I am thinking i am going to end up in the 1500 range.  I have money to burn but I don't like burning it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I know I want**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7 Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32GB Ram (Dual Channel if I go 6700 quad if i go 6800)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;500GB SSD or NVMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PLAIN Case (its a business not an art show)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU that can handle my quad monitor setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Type C Port on MB (Unless someone has a reason why not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Current Conflicts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7-6700K vs I7-6800K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Air Cooled vs Water Cooled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR4 3000 vs Faster&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sata SSD vs NVMe SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Areas where I have not a clue**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MotherBoard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU (I do know how to add so my plan was to take everything add up the wattage and give my self about 20% head room)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18335" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6308" RevisionGUID="525bd886-1764-4808-a6e0-44c8c7cc9f1a" CreationDate="2016-11-25T20:10:21.617" UserId="4982" Text="Changing the CPU is not as easy as adding RAM or swapping a HDD.  It is a FULL dissasembly.  Have a look at this [video here][1].  Still want to do it, then narrow your list of possible options. We can use the Intel ARK to get a [list][1] of processors that will fit in your laptop. Looks like the **Intel i3-330M** is the cheapest processor which supports VT-x and isn't a downgrade.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are you sure you want to take the effort to one five-year-old processor for another in a laptop?  I have a feeling you could get a used laptop with VT-x enabled almost as cheap as buying a core and replacing it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t&amp;SocketsSupported=BGA1288&amp;VTX=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18336" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="b16afd75-ee5d-4cea-a1f8-94345ae1fe59" CreationDate="2016-11-25T20:18:55.143" UserId="5001" Comment="NVME to NVMi" Text="I am looking for some recommendations for my new I7 Build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I use it for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Day to day business work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications open at once**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustator&#xD;&#xA; - Firefox (11 Tabs)&#xD;&#xA; - Chrome (5-10 Windows / 10-20 Tabs in each)&#xD;&#xA; - Skype&#xD;&#xA; - QQ Messenger&#xD;&#xA; - Jitsi (VOIP Dialer)&#xD;&#xA; - Outlook&#xD;&#xA; - Notepad ++&#xD;&#xA; - Windows Photo Viewer (typically 3-10 images)&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon S3 Viewer&#xD;&#xA; - Excel (3-10 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Word (1-2 Docs)&#xD;&#xA; - Open VPN&#xD;&#xA; - One Drive&#xD;&#xA; - FileZila&#xD;&#xA; - BitVise&#xD;&#xA; - Windows explorer (3-5 Windows)&#xD;&#xA; - Calculator (thought i would throw this in to be accurate)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Occasionally Open**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Edge&#xD;&#xA; - Internet Explorer&#xD;&#xA; - Acrobat&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Bridge (this could be more frequent in the future)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Visualization Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I will be using 3 Monitors at 1920x1080 Resolution but I will be wanting to add a 4th in the very near future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocking**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Looking for recommendations here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originally I was planning on doing this build under 1000 but now I am thinking i am going to end up in the 1500 range.  I have money to burn but I don't like burning it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I know I want**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7 Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32GB Ram (Dual Channel if I go 6700 quad if i go 6800)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;500GB SSD or NVMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PLAIN Case (its a business not an art show)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU that can handle my quad monitor setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Type C Port on MB (Unless someone has a reason why not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Current Conflicts**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7-6700K vs I7-6800K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Air Cooled vs Water Cooled&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR4 3000 vs Faster&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sata SSD vs NVMi SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Areas where I have not a clue**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MotherBoard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU (I do know how to add so my plan was to take everything add up the wattage and give my self about 20% head room)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6308" RevisionGUID="9415f831-aba7-4fdf-8a68-b80ff7643336" CreationDate="2016-11-26T14:19:48.190" UserId="4982" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="Changing the CPU is not as easy as adding RAM or swapping a HDD.  It is a FULL dissasembly.  Have a look at this [video here][2].  Still want to do it, then narrow your list of possible options. We can use the Intel ARK to get a [list][2] of processors that will fit in your laptop. Looks like the **Intel i3-330M** is the cheapest processor which supports VT-x and isn't a downgrade.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are you sure you want to take the effort to one five-year-old processor for another in a laptop?  I have a feeling you could get a used laptop with VT-x enabled almost as cheap as buying a core and replacing it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnTC07oqiLo&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t&amp;SocketsSupported=BGA1288&amp;VTX=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6308" RevisionGUID="2b981d73-35bc-4a40-b92e-90b374830e18" CreationDate="2016-11-26T14:25:04.840" UserId="4982" Comment="edited body" Text="Changing the CPU is not as easy as adding RAM or swapping a HDD.  It is a FULL dissasembly.  Have a look at this [video here][1].  Still want to do it, then narrow your list of possible options. We can use the Intel ARK to get a [list][2] of processors that will fit in your laptop. Looks like the **Intel i3-330M** is the cheapest processor which supports VT-x and isn't a downgrade.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are you sure you want to take the effort to swap one five-year-old processor for another?  I have a feeling you could get a used laptop with VT-x enabled almost as cheap as buying a core and replacing it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnTC07oqiLo&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t&amp;SocketsSupported=BGA1288&amp;VTX=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18369" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="daa52c87-6856-4e10-9f2a-b9695ad1a0e6" CreationDate="2016-11-27T00:17:36.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18386" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6317" RevisionGUID="650cbddb-50d3-48fd-a5bf-b2695842732a" CreationDate="2016-11-27T15:41:24.750" UserId="5046" Text="I need to urgently choose an external hard drive. I need him to run on my 10 Windovs the iMac, since virtual machines shows too low performance in my case. I think I need a SSD, as its data transfer rate faster than the HDD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that SSD fails - it fails entirely, but I will not store important data on it (I need it for working with Hololens emulator and several other programs). And I hope with careful treatment, he will live longer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for:   &#xD;&#xA;**SSD   &#xD;&#xA;500GB or more  &#xD;&#xA;$50-150 max**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a model I have found - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016JREG84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER  &#xD;&#xA;**What do you think about it? Would you recommend different one?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an answer urgently, and I would be very grateful for your help!&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18387" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6317" RevisionGUID="650cbddb-50d3-48fd-a5bf-b2695842732a" CreationDate="2016-11-27T15:41:24.750" UserId="5046" Text="Urgently choosing SDD - need advice!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6317" RevisionGUID="650cbddb-50d3-48fd-a5bf-b2695842732a" CreationDate="2016-11-27T15:41:24.750" UserId="5046" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6318" RevisionGUID="fbcecf78-241b-4f4c-9705-a2ddacdd99a6" CreationDate="2016-11-27T20:02:52.860" UserId="273" Text="While I can't judge on the given SSD model, I can issue a recommendation for another one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [**Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD**.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's why it's a good SSD:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Price.** It's 130USD on Amazon right now and thus just as expensive as the SSD you linked.&#xD;&#xA; - **Speed.** [The 850 Evo will go to 400MB/s no problem.][2] Anything beyond that will depend on your system but probably won't make noticeable differences in practice.&#xD;&#xA; - **Durability / Warranty.** [Samsung gives you a **5-year / 150TBW warranty** on this SSD][3], meaning Samsung guarantees that your SSD will still work perfectly fine if you use it for less than 5 years and write less than 150TB (300 complete writes over the drive or 84GB / day) during that time-span. Chances are this SSD won't fail you even if you go beyond the 150TBW limit. In fact, even the less-durable predecessor with half the storage (for which Samsung only gives you three years of warranty) survived [300TBW without major issues.][4] It is thus expected that you can go at least up to 500 - 1000TBW without loosing the 850 EVO. If you want even more you need to put down the additional 90USD for a 850 PRO  which should survive a few PB worth of writes.&#xD;&#xA; - **Brand.** Samsung flash storage has a very good reputation.&#xD;&#xA; - **Software.** [Samsung provides software][5] for all its SSDs to optimize the system perfomance (stuff like enabling AHCI). The software also tells you how much data has already been written on your SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a non-exhaustive personal opinion: I have used this very SSD for more than 1 year now &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E500B-AM/dp/B00OBRE5UE&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-500GB/Rating/3477&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/M2M/html/support/warranty.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/download/tools.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6317" RevisionGUID="dc199e6e-e00b-4a94-94f9-c2bfa504ec31" CreationDate="2016-11-27T20:23:35.833" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6319" RevisionGUID="1d4b8e23-9fc9-4b76-ac98-53f22f634e4b" CreationDate="2016-11-27T22:59:13.060" UserId="223" Text="I need a home server for running couple of services, since my current hardware is aging. For example:&#xA;&#xA; * DHCP/DNS-Server&#xA; * Mail-Server&#xA; * File-Server (SMB, AFP, FTP)&#xA; * CalDAV / CardDAV&#xA; * ownCloud, maybe WordPress&#xA;&#xA;USB 3.0 is a requirement, since I want high I/O-Rates beyond 25MB/s, also access times should be fast (e.g. Hosting the library of a photo manager on the network share with lots of small file reads). The CPU/RAM should be juicy enough to carry out those requirements on the various file protocols, and to run the ownCloud PHP stuff smoothly.&#xA;&#xA;I want to focus on low power consumption because of the 24/7 runtime. The number of hard drive bays doesn't really matter, I'm using USB-Drives so far and don't necessarily need to change this. Operating system will be some Linux, I don't want any custom/proprietary flavour e.g. Synology DSM, just plain Linux with full control. Display output won't be needed at all. No redundancy is needed as well, so one PSU and one gigabit Ethernet port should be enough.&#xA;&#xA;What kind of hardware should I choose to get the most performance with least power consumption and lowest cost? I thought on ~400€ (~430$) max, don't know if that's possible. Of course it'd be nice if the requirements were possible at even less than 400€.&#xA;&#xA;I'd prefer to buy the individual components and assemble the system myself, but I don't know if it gets cheaper with pre-built systems. Are there pre-built systems that meet my requirements? What hardware would you choose if you had to assemble a similar system?&#xA;&#xA;Any recommendations are very welcome! I'll provide additional details if required. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18392" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6319" RevisionGUID="1d4b8e23-9fc9-4b76-ac98-53f22f634e4b" CreationDate="2016-11-27T22:59:13.060" UserId="223" Text="Low-Power Home Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6319" RevisionGUID="1d4b8e23-9fc9-4b76-ac98-53f22f634e4b" CreationDate="2016-11-27T22:59:13.060" UserId="223" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18396" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="4b3c106d-93c2-4beb-adce-482ccbc3c81a" CreationDate="2016-11-27T23:44:13.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6317" RevisionGUID="392a84da-baf6-4933-8a9e-48a1b81915e5" CreationDate="2016-11-27T23:48:25.103" UserId="5046" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I need to urgently choose an external hard drive. I need IT to run windows 10 on my iMac, since virtual machines shows too low performance in my case. I think I need an SSD, since its data transfer rate faster than the HDD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that if SSD fails - it fails entirely, but I will not store important data on it (I need it for working with Hololens emulator and several other programs). And I hope with careful treatment, he will live longer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for:   &#xD;&#xA;**SSD   &#xD;&#xA;500GB or more  &#xD;&#xA;$50-150 max**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a model I have found - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016JREG84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER  &#xD;&#xA;**What do you think about it? Would you recommend different one?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an answer urgently, and I would be very grateful for your help!&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6306" RevisionGUID="3c4ffad5-547c-4a0a-a915-bb38502d9646" CreationDate="2016-11-27T23:59:21.840" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6319" RevisionGUID="b5da0cb4-9b8e-41b0-9a7b-7b3ed3e4a3fb" CreationDate="2016-11-28T12:32:47.337" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 89 characters in body" Text="I need a home server for running couple of services, since my current hardware is aging. For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * DHCP/DNS-Server&#xD;&#xA; * Mail-Server&#xD;&#xA; * File-Server (SMB, AFP, FTP)&#xD;&#xA; * CalDAV / CardDAV&#xD;&#xA; * ownCloud, maybe WordPress&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB 3.0 is a requirement, since I want high I/O-Rates beyond 25MB/s, also access times should be fast (e.g. Hosting the library of a photo manager on the network share with lots of small file reads). The CPU/RAM should be juicy enough to carry out those requirements on the various file protocols, and to run the ownCloud PHP stuff smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to focus on low power consumption because of the 24/7 runtime. The number of hard drive bays doesn't really matter, I'm using USB-Drives so far and don't necessarily need to change this. Operating system will be some Linux, I don't want any custom/proprietary flavour e.g. Synology DSM, just plain Linux with full control. Display output won't be needed at all. No redundancy is needed as well, so one PSU and one gigabit Ethernet port should be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of hardware should I choose to get the most performance with least power consumption and lowest cost? I thought on ~400€ (~430$) max, don't know if that's possible. Of course it'd be nice if the requirements were possible at even less than 400€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer to buy the individual components and assemble the system myself, but I don't know if it gets cheaper with pre-built systems. Are there pre-built systems that meet my requirements? What hardware would you choose if you had to assemble a similar system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="b9d81a2f-ff4c-4586-a723-8f350e20e0ab" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:06:12.223" UserId="5052" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what graphics card would run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 x UHD (3840 x 2160) monitor&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x Full HD (1920 x 1080) monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is the cheapest solution for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="b9d81a2f-ff4c-4586-a723-8f350e20e0ab" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:06:12.223" UserId="5052" Text="Graphic card which supports 1xUDH and 2xFull HD output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="b9d81a2f-ff4c-4586-a723-8f350e20e0ab" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:06:12.223" UserId="5052" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18425" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="91af8a60-bcf2-4780-9325-c975936de684" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:12:20.357" UserId="5052" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what graphics card would run:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 x UHD (3840 x 2160) monitor&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x Full HD (1920 x 1080) monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is the cheapest solution for this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not for gaming**, using for work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6328" RevisionGUID="41935de8-266c-4eb8-b692-c4457155065e" CreationDate="2016-11-28T20:38:33.520" UserId="1641" Text="As the new I.T. guy, the managment ask me for buying an new server for the core proccess application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a web application, &quot;hand made&quot; for a courrier enterprise. As many standart web app, uses a LAMP stack, and the &quot;bottleneck&quot; is the proccessing of the MySQL querys and transactions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My co-worker told me that a SDD would relief this bottleneck, but at this moment in Colombia, the price of an 400GB is close to $1000 USD (without taxes).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A salesman recomends using two Dell DD 300GB 10K RPM SAS 12Gbps, instead of a SSD. Some &quot;Googling&quot; told that the most important spec of any drive are the IOPS, but i'm confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone have a close experience using this type of units in an application with **hundreds of concurrent queries**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on which type of drive is the best option? (*Note the price and capacity*)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6328" RevisionGUID="41935de8-266c-4eb8-b692-c4457155065e" CreationDate="2016-11-28T20:38:33.520" UserId="1641" Text="Recommendation Between HDD and SSD for Web Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6328" RevisionGUID="41935de8-266c-4eb8-b692-c4457155065e" CreationDate="2016-11-28T20:38:33.520" UserId="1641" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6329" RevisionGUID="3b5e4d12-a34f-485c-a104-8aa009acf8c9" CreationDate="2016-11-28T22:00:01.143" UserId="5055" Text="You will need either the Yubikey 4 or Yubikey Neo in order to use the device to store passwords or authentication tokens. The $18 U2F key will **only** allow you to perform U2F logins on websites (and browsers) that support it. It is not designed as a password replacement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6331" RevisionGUID="f830cdcf-d8d1-4f98-b842-fda7ced9bbf3" CreationDate="2016-11-29T01:57:43.833" UserId="5056" Text="I7-6700K vs I7-6800K     =  6700k your turbo boost will be higher and I have experience with both 6700k ran a lot cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Air Cooled vs Water Cooled  = In my professional opinon with what you want to do i would recommend liquid cooling&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR4 3000 vs Faster = cost effective i say DDR4 3000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sata SSD vs NVMi SSD= SATA SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1600 WATT Power Supply  Platinum Rated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming G1 (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inno3D NVIDIA Geforce GTX 970 4GB Overclocked Video Card HD1080,4K,4 monitors x3  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My opinion if you want me to do a full spec for you email me @ info.ethanohara@gmail.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18445" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6332" RevisionGUID="e357f542-818d-4485-b491-7befa92e100f" CreationDate="2016-11-29T08:57:05.807" UserId="4509" Text="I struggle to wake up in the morning (who doesn't?) but I've had some success using sleep tracking apps on my phone that wake you up in the right cycle. &#xA;&#xA;However, I don't like leaving my phone on the bed - I'm paranoid it's going to fall off - plus I sleep with my significant other so I'm sure there's some interference as she moves too. I've been interested in getting a smartwatch for a bit. &#xA;&#xA;What smartwatch would you recommend that I can wear comfortably sleeping that functions well as a sleep tracker and wakes you up pleasantly and reliably? I'm willing to spend a bit on it, somewhere in the $200-300 range. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18446" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6332" RevisionGUID="e357f542-818d-4485-b491-7befa92e100f" CreationDate="2016-11-29T08:57:05.807" UserId="4509" Text="Wearable sleep aid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6332" RevisionGUID="e357f542-818d-4485-b491-7befa92e100f" CreationDate="2016-11-29T08:57:05.807" UserId="4509" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6334" RevisionGUID="f1a3ef11-28b8-4206-a908-c1ff44c269e9" CreationDate="2016-11-29T12:46:22.567" UserId="1869" Text="I have a server with 12 harddisk slots, currently using an Areca ARC-1231ML card, with a large RAID-6 spanning 8 disks and a few passthroughs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tiny CPU on that board is obviously not capable of handling this setup, and I get approximately 100 MB/s write speed after caches are full, and the passthrough disks also suffer in that case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like to replace that card. The new card should have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - battery backed up write cache (the workload is heavy on small writes, as this is a continuous integration server)&#xD;&#xA; - 12 SATA ports&#xD;&#xA; - acceptable write speed on RAID-6 (I'd expect 1 GB/s sustained)&#xD;&#xA; - automated biweekly consistency checks&#xD;&#xA; - ideally, a way to import an existing RAID-6 from an Areca RAID setup to spare me an annoying manual migration.&#xD;&#xA; - if it can use an SSD as a read cache transparently, that is a huge bonus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main difficulties are probably the speed requirement and the import functionality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6334" RevisionGUID="f1a3ef11-28b8-4206-a908-c1ff44c269e9" CreationDate="2016-11-29T12:46:22.567" UserId="1869" Text="Replacing ArecaRAID ARC-1231ML" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18454" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6334" RevisionGUID="f1a3ef11-28b8-4206-a908-c1ff44c269e9" CreationDate="2016-11-29T12:46:22.567" UserId="1869" Text="&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6328" RevisionGUID="278729b9-b9b0-4af8-930d-c9816f9f2b4a" CreationDate="2016-11-29T14:33:37.407" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6337" RevisionGUID="91d332ea-c35b-41e1-9ca4-8aa642e9837c" CreationDate="2016-11-29T16:08:27.697" UserId="5001" Text="Okay did not get much response here so I did 5 more days of research and this is what I came to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: I7-6800K &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I decided due to the amount of multi-tasking that I do that the extra cores were to enticing to  pass up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: Microcenter.com $329.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: There was a sale so the processor was only 10$ More&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cooler: Corsair Hydro H100i V2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I figured I would be tempted to overclock the 6700K so I justified the cost on both processors (Another reason why I went with the 6800K)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: Amazon $99.99 (On Sale)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: AS Rock X99 Taichi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons: True Quad Channel MB / 8 Dim Slots / Dual Nics / built in Wifi / Dual M.2 Ports / USB Type C Port / Well Spaced PCI-E Ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: NewEgg $199.99 - $20 Rebate + $.99 Shipping = $181.98 (I could have saved another 30$ with the combo at microcenter but they did not have this board) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ram: GSkill Ripjaws 4 DDR4 4x8GB 3000MHZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons: Ripjaws 4 was built specifically for Quad Channel vs Ripjaws 5 Etc / Good Value&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: NewEgg $199.99 - $20 Promo Code = $179.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX1060 GV-N1060G1GAMING-6GD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons: Do you know how hard it is to find and verify that a video card will actually support 4 Monitors?  I do now.  Besides that it seems like a decent card for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: Amazon $274.99 - $20 Rebate = $254.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Plextor M8PE m.2 2280 512GB NVME&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons:  Super fast drive / Almost as fast as Samsung 960Pro for a lot less money.  Samsung 960 Evo is not out yet (this would have been my preference).  Side note: I really wanted the AIC version of this drive but I goofed around and it sold out.  Other vendors were too expensive and now I will have to get heatsink recommendations for this from this forum)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: Newegg $249.99 - $25 Promo code = $224.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Corsair CS Series, CS750M, 750 Watt (750W) Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons: Plenty of power and room for extra stuff. / Gold Rated / semi modular / ON SALE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vendor: Amazon $79.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case: Undecided but I am going to go down to Frys and get something locally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Cost: $1350.93&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This ended up being a very painful experience but I do feel like I got a really good system out of this.  I really struggled with another issue as well and that is the fact that the I7-7700K Is coming out in a month and smashes this processor in benchmarks.  In the end when that happens most likely I will give this computer to my Wife and daughter and put myself through this misery again.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this helps someone if they have this same struggle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="429de3bd-4c25-4fea-ae75-eab09c22ed01" CreationDate="2016-11-29T16:28:39.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6339" RevisionGUID="8a553689-a0be-4999-bc06-0d6c6e4e1fa8" CreationDate="2016-11-29T21:41:47.447" UserId="241" Text="Your requirements sound similar to my home server, except that I went with an internal RAID-6 array -- so that's $400 in hot-swap bays, cases, and controller cards you won't need to spend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the cheaper end of the price range, buying pre-made usually costs less than building your own.  The mostly-preassembled option I'd recommend would be an [Intel 2550L2D-MxPC][1] for about $130.  It's got an Atom D2550 CPU (four years newer and considerably more powerful than my Atom 230), dual gigabit ethernet, two USB 3.0 and four USB 2.0 ports.  You'll need to add RAM ($45 for 8 GB) and a boot drive ($40 for either a 500GB hard drive or a 120GB SSD).  Like almost all of Intel's products, it's Linux-compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856205007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6340" RevisionGUID="b679d57e-f1be-49bd-a516-92ccc160a3eb" CreationDate="2016-11-29T23:20:30.673" UserId="4966" Text="After some consideration I am going with Plex layered on top of FreeNAS, and using a Chromecast for the HDMI head end and using the Plex/Chromcast App on my tablet to perform the control." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6342" RevisionGUID="cc49342e-351e-4072-bada-9afc39e7938f" CreationDate="2016-11-30T05:43:39.567" UserId="5001" Text="If you are just looking for something to get you up there is Pavlok.  This literally zaps you awake.  It has a lot of mixed reviews but some people swear by it. Company Website: www.pavlok.com / I recommend checking out the amazon reviews.  They are VERY VERY MIXED&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something that actually tracks your sleep cycle there is a product called sleep cycle that tracks your sleep through a monitor on your night stand.  Has tons of great reviews on Apple and Android platforms.  [Itunes App &amp; Reviews](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/sleep-cycle-alarm-clock/id320606217?mt=8) / [Android App &amp; Reviews](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.northcube.sleepcycle&amp;hl=en) / Company Website: www.sleepcycle.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are dead set on a wearable you really do not have much choice out there.  While many of the wearable track your sleep. Ie Fitbit Jawbone Etc.  Most do not wake you up they just give you your sleep data." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6344" RevisionGUID="fb6aa620-9edd-4c2e-b02a-54d68c2ea670" CreationDate="2016-11-30T15:31:25.683" UserId="5066" Text="I'm looking for an All-in-One device. It should have Win10 Pro installed. I would prefer an Intel i5 or i3 processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The special requirement is the wall mount. The only device I found weights 12kg. Maybe someone knows a lighter device. It should have VESA for an easy installation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6344" RevisionGUID="fb6aa620-9edd-4c2e-b02a-54d68c2ea670" CreationDate="2016-11-30T15:31:25.683" UserId="5066" Text="Intel i3/i5 AIO with wall mount" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6344" RevisionGUID="fb6aa620-9edd-4c2e-b02a-54d68c2ea670" CreationDate="2016-11-30T15:31:25.683" UserId="5066" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;all-in-one&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="831" RevisionGUID="e4dec487-dd48-4383-891d-b9db08eef11f" CreationDate="2016-11-30T16:40:21.027" UserId="5065" Comment="edited body" Text="For questions about hardware incorporating Intel's Thunderbolt I/O connection technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="831" RevisionGUID="e4dec487-dd48-4383-891d-b9db08eef11f" CreationDate="2016-11-30T16:40:21.027" Comment="Proposed by 5065 approved by -1 edit id of 541" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="831" RevisionGUID="842276ef-d331-4dbf-8bd2-be9a9e117b51" CreationDate="2016-11-30T16:40:21.027" UserId="155" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware incorporating Intel/Apple's Thunderbolt I/O connection technology." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="7152a191-4ea0-4339-9fc3-0a139c37470e" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:05:46.800" UserId="5069" Text="What motherboard from the Asus z170 chipset line offers the most set of features? I did some research and it looks like the z170-a is the one but I could be wrong. I like to have a motherboard that offers the most features even if I won't necessarily need them. I just like to have the most options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I would hope to include but don't let that affect your answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.1, type a and c&#xD;&#xA;- Possibility to do SLI in the future" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="7152a191-4ea0-4339-9fc3-0a139c37470e" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:05:46.800" UserId="5069" Text="Asus motherboard in the $50-$150 range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="7152a191-4ea0-4339-9fc3-0a139c37470e" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:05:46.800" UserId="5069" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18500" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="14e26b9c-b0d0-47aa-bb93-02b214a133cd" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:33:05.583" UserId="5069" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="What motherboard from the Asus z170 chipset line offers the most set of features? I did some research and it looks like the z170-a is the one but I could be wrong. I'd like to have a motherboard that offers the most features even if I won't necessarily need them. I just like to have the most possible options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I would hope to include but don't let that affect your answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.1, type a and c&#xD;&#xA;- Possibility to do SLI in the future" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18502" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6332" RevisionGUID="fb26e45a-681f-44f5-97e9-ede9760dab25" CreationDate="2016-11-30T21:38:03.897" UserId="4509" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="I struggle to wake up in the morning (who doesn't?) but I've had some success using sleep tracking apps on my phone that wake you up in the right cycle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I don't like leaving my phone on the bed - I'm paranoid it's going to fall off - plus I sleep with my significant other so I'm sure there's some interference as she moves too. I've been interested in getting a smartwatch for a bit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read about a smartwatch that wakes you up by vibrating, which feels like a light tap on the wrist. I'm looking for a wearable that can do that and also track your sleep.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What smartwatch would you recommend that I can wear comfortably sleeping that functions well as a sleep tracker and wakes you up pleasantly and reliably? I'm willing to spend a bit on it, somewhere in the $200-300 range. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6342" RevisionGUID="4befbbcf-fd9e-480b-837d-a67db9b7e026" CreationDate="2016-11-30T22:24:08.370" UserId="5001" Comment="Added additional options in the answer" Text="If you are just looking for something to get you up there is Pavlok.  This literally zaps you awake.  It has a lot of mixed reviews but some people swear by it. Company Website: www.pavlok.com / I recommend checking out the amazon reviews.  They are VERY VERY MIXED&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for something that actually tracks your sleep cycle there is a product called sleep cycle that tracks your sleep through a monitor on your night stand.  Has tons of great reviews on Apple and Android platforms.  [Itunes App &amp; Reviews](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/sleep-cycle-alarm-clock/id320606217?mt=8) / [Android App &amp; Reviews](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.northcube.sleepcycle&amp;hl=en) / Company Website: www.sleepcycle.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are dead set on a wearable you really do not have much choice out there.  While many of the wearable track your sleep. Ie Fitbit Jawbone Etc.  Most do not wake you up they just give you your sleep data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After doing more research it seems as though the Jawbone Up2 /3 /4 all offer a &quot;Smart Alarm&quot; That will wake you up inside a 30 minute window https://jawbone.com/up/trackers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18507" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6332" RevisionGUID="517e9463-3ad4-4566-bfb2-37dd61830b3e" CreationDate="2016-11-30T23:00:25.030" UserId="4509" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I struggle to wake up in the morning (who doesn't?) but I've had some success using sleep tracking apps on my phone that wake you up in the right cycle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I don't like leaving my phone on the bed - I'm paranoid it's going to fall off - plus I sleep with my significant other so I'm sure there's some interference as she moves too. I've been interested in getting a smartwatch for a bit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read about a smartwatch that wakes you up by vibrating, which feels like a light tap on the wrist (but I don't remember what watch that was). I'm looking for a wearable that can do that and also track your sleep.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What smartwatch would you recommend that I can wear comfortably sleeping that functions well as a sleep tracker and wakes you up pleasantly and reliably? I'm willing to spend a bit on it, somewhere in the $200-300 range. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="072be0c5-ea1b-43ae-8e05-0e4308af3aa9" CreationDate="2016-11-30T23:12:56.700" UserId="5069" Comment="added 303 characters in body; edited tags" Text="What motherboard from the Asus z170 chipset line offers the most set of features? I did some research and it looks like the z170-a is the one but I could be wrong. I'd like to have a motherboard that offers the most features even if I won't necessarily need them. I just like to have the most possible options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few things I would hope to include but don't let that affect your answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.1, type a and c&#xD;&#xA;- Possibility to do SLI in the future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some things that I plan to do with the system are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Everyday usage&#xD;&#xA;- Gaming&#xD;&#xA;- Web development and running WAMP server for development&#xD;&#xA;- Media server using Plex&#xD;&#xA;- Photoshop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already plan on buying a GTX 1070 graphics card so I can play games on the highest graphics settings possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="072be0c5-ea1b-43ae-8e05-0e4308af3aa9" CreationDate="2016-11-30T23:12:56.700" UserId="5069" Comment="added 303 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6348" RevisionGUID="d7e31069-82fb-4d3a-9cab-bb4b586337a6" CreationDate="2016-11-30T23:57:18.510" UserId="4523" Text="I would probably go with this one:  [ASUS Z170-E](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132691&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These points jump out, at least at me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR4 memory overclocked to 3466MHz(max compatible speed) &#xD;&#xA;Onboard USB 3.1 Gen 2 for 10Gbit/s data transfer speeds&#xD;&#xA;Lightning-fast M.2 with PCIe 3.0 x4 interface " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18514" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6344" RevisionGUID="0ed53105-b7a7-44bc-ae94-31967096ae80" CreationDate="2016-12-01T13:45:01.903" UserId="5066" Comment="added 253 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an All-in-One device. It should have Win10 Pro installed. I would prefer an Intel i5 or i3 processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The special requirement is the wall mount. The only device I found weights 12kg. Maybe someone knows a lighter device. It should have VESA for an easy installation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is your budget? 400-900€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are you planning on doing with it (video editing, gaming, running some server applications, etc)? Casual Office work and using RDP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How big should the screen be, and what resolution would you like? 20-24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6349" RevisionGUID="b65e5331-40dd-44fd-85e5-1823dbc9d226" CreationDate="2016-12-01T14:53:52.533" UserId="1876" Text="In my workstation, the computer CPU (and the headphone jack) is inside the desk near the foot. Not very easy to reach to plug/unplug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for a solution that would allow me to switch the headphone input from the PC to my phone/ipod without messing with the plugs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally there would be a free 3.5mm male jack at my desk, and I'd plug it into whatever media device i brought, and switch the input from the PC to that one, not unlike a computer KVM switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, [this device does what I want][1], but `4 in / 4 out` is too much. I just need `2 in / 1 out`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is the opposite of what [this one][2] does: The output is just the headphones (can't use speakers, company policy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/LINE5-Multi-channel-Headphone-Switcher-Amplifier/dp/B00HA11KFQ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=pd_sim_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000K8PH8C&amp;pd_rd_r=BRGB42979HPV1BQX6GA9&amp;pd_rd_w=vtcYn&amp;pd_rd_wg=bysnc&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BRGB42979HPV1BQX6GA9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6349" RevisionGUID="b65e5331-40dd-44fd-85e5-1823dbc9d226" CreationDate="2016-12-01T14:53:52.533" UserId="1876" Text="Headphones input switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18519" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6349" RevisionGUID="b65e5331-40dd-44fd-85e5-1823dbc9d226" CreationDate="2016-12-01T14:53:52.533" UserId="1876" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="cb216e14-582b-4bb0-9341-7b8cc7e46ff5" CreationDate="2016-12-01T17:29:50.210" UserId="5077" Text="Maybe [this one][1] is what you are looking for, but then you need some [extra cables][2] to use with standard jack plugs (you might need [this cable][3] too to have the plug for your headphones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/3WSoSUc&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/3sw09i4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="a608010d-94d6-4821-a66c-57232f059e71" CreationDate="2016-12-01T17:41:36.677" UserId="5077" Comment="edited body" Text="Maybe [this one][1] is what you are looking for, but then you need some [extra cables][2] to use with standard jack plugs (you might need [this cable][3] too to have the plug for your headphones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/dKrP4QN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/3sw09i4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="4b571454-430b-4839-a9a1-7387df69de04" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:05:16.990" UserId="5077" Text="I need something similar to what James asked [here][1], e.g. a headphone amp/splitter with separate output volume controls and 3.5 jacks for in and outs, but I have slight different needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. it must be USB powered or removable battery powered, no rechargeable lithium battery accepted here&#xD;&#xA; 2. it must have at least 3 jack outputs with their respective volume knobs&#xD;&#xA; 3. I'm willing to accept as an answer a COMPLETE list of DIY items needed to build it myself&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/501/portable-headphone-amplifier-splitter-w-separate-volume-control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="4b571454-430b-4839-a9a1-7387df69de04" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:05:16.990" UserId="5077" Text="USB powered Headphone Amplifier/Splitter w/ Separate Volume Control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="4b571454-430b-4839-a9a1-7387df69de04" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:05:16.990" UserId="5077" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18530" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="641efcfb-45b7-4ff2-8c1f-f862548b6158" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:05:33.777" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="d2d1a8d0-3ebf-41f6-8985-e728bc46aa31" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:09:21.103" UserId="5077" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="[This Audio A/B switch][1] might be what you are looking for, because it provides exactly one input and two outputs as requested. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you plan to use it with standard consumer headphones, then you need some [extra cables][2] to use with standard 3.5&quot; jack plugs. You will need [this cable][3] too to provide the 3.5&quot; jack the plug for your headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/dKrP4QN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/3sw09i4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="764ed85f-cebc-4589-83da-ff8e661c49ba" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:14:28.643" UserId="5077" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="[This Audio A/B switch][1] might be what you are looking for, because it provides exactly one input and two outputs as requested. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you plan to use it with standard consumer headphones, then you need some [extra cables][2] to use with standard 3.5&quot; jack plugs. You will need [this cable][3] too to provide the 3.5&quot; jack socket for your headphones plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While those cables are required in your case, they are also useful to you, because they solve the problem of the PC providing a socket under the desk near the foot, because you can buy longer cables or jack extension cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/dKrP4QN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/3sw09i4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18533" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="f0b3f2cf-7b24-44b6-9eb7-3435e31ca578" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:16:15.343" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 95 characters in body" Text="I need something similar to what James asked [here][1], e.g. a headphone amp/splitter with separate output volume controls and 3.5 jacks for in and outs, but I have slight different needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. it must be USB powered or removable battery powered, no rechargeable lithium battery accepted here&#xD;&#xA; 2. it must have at least 3 jack outputs with their respective volume knobs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/501/portable-headphone-amplifier-splitter-w-separate-volume-control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="7990fc40-e047-4e55-9fef-b46f4263799a" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:17:17.337" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="b68347c0-6e14-4895-93a0-bd3e85c969d2" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:19:53.970" UserId="5077" Comment="edited body" Text="[This Audio A/B switch][1] might be what you are looking for, because it provides exactly two inputs and one output as requested. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you plan to use it with standard consumer headphones, then you need some [extra cables][2] to use with standard 3.5&quot; jack plugs. You will need [this cable][3] too to provide the 3.5&quot; jack socket for your headphones plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While those cables are required in your case, they are also useful to you, because they solve the problem of the PC providing a socket under the desk near the foot, because you can buy longer cables or jack extension cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/dKrP4QN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/3sw09i4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6351" RevisionGUID="8a8e0059-4348-4ee3-9397-bb0a9d1e79a1" CreationDate="2016-12-01T19:50:03.687" UserId="5077" Comment="deleted 63 characters in body" Text="[This Audio A/B switch][1] might be what you are looking for, because it provides exactly two inputs and one output as requested. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you plan to use it with standard 3.5&quot; jacks, you will need these [extra cables][2] to connect the PC and smartphone jack sockets to the switch input sockets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While those cables are required in your case, they are also useful to you, because they solve the problem of the PC providing a socket under the desk near the foot, because you can buy longer cables or jack extension cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://a.co/dKrP4QN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/b9HLLrR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sX9eJq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="e1bff789-d6ba-4ef6-8078-afe9ebbf5c6d" CreationDate="2016-12-01T21:43:57.943" UserId="5082" Text="I am looking for a docking station that allows me to easily plugin a IDE or SATA HDD and a SDCard. It would be handy if it also allows to &quot;clone/duplicate&quot; between hard disks as I have a few faulty disks with data that might be recoverable that way. However I see so many things online, and so many people saying &quot;this is crap, hard disk doesn't fit&quot; or &quot;it broke after using a few times&quot; etc... I am a little scared on ordering one (I have to order online, don't think I will find this in any local store).. I am also not 100% sure if a clone/duplicator dock can also just straight read the data using USB to my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reads IDE/Sata/Sdcards through USB&#xD;&#xA;Is able to clone between the 2 hard drive slots&#xD;&#xA;Is decent quality&#xD;&#xA;Anyone got any recommendation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably a dock that can read those pesky WD IDE drives that seem to be an issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="e1bff789-d6ba-4ef6-8078-afe9ebbf5c6d" CreationDate="2016-12-01T21:43:57.943" UserId="5082" Text="Advise on a HDD/SDCard docking station" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="e1bff789-d6ba-4ef6-8078-afe9ebbf5c6d" CreationDate="2016-12-01T21:43:57.943" UserId="5082" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="07bb5dc8-a0a0-44c3-9483-c94b7df357ad" CreationDate="2016-12-02T02:26:34.520" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 36 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a docking station that allows me to easily plugin a IDE or SATA HDD and a SD card. It would be handy if it also allows to &quot;clone/duplicate&quot; between hard disks as I have a few faulty disks with data that might be recoverable that way. However I see so many things online, and so many people saying &quot;this is crap, hard disk doesn't fit&quot; or &quot;it broke after using a few times&quot; etc... I am a little scared on ordering one (I have to order online, don't think I will find this in any local store).. I am also not 100% sure if a clone/duplicator dock can also just straight read the data using USB to my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I need something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reads IDE/Sata/Sdcards through USB&#xD;&#xA;- Is able to clone between the 2 hard drive slots&#xD;&#xA;- Is decent quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably a dock that can read those pesky WD IDE drives that seem to be an issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18551" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="07bb5dc8-a0a0-44c3-9483-c94b7df357ad" CreationDate="2016-12-02T02:26:34.520" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 36 characters in body" Text="Advice on a HDD/SDCard docking station" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6358" RevisionGUID="313228bb-616b-4ef8-a3d1-658ba18ba5af" CreationDate="2016-12-02T07:01:58.773" UserId="5085" Text="**tl;dr** The [Samsung KU6290][7] is a 40&quot; 4K TV for around $300. It has HDMI 2.0, Chroma 4:4:4, input lag of around 35ms, and has been recommended on Amazon for use as a computer monitor. The 6290 is identical to the [KU6300][8] except for the smart remote control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been doing a ton of research on monitors, televisions and display technology. My goal was to purchase a larger display to use for the following tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* General computer use (web browsing, email, etc)&#xD;&#xA;* Programming (mostly using the JetBrains IDEs and Visual Studio&#xD;&#xA;* Word processing&#xD;&#xA;* Gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of my other goals and constraints&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Inexpensive (sub $500)&#xD;&#xA;* Wall mountable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially, I was looking at 27&quot; to 30&quot; monitors, but I discovered that 4K/UHD/3840 × 2160 (all three mean the same thing) medium sized monitors aren't really that useful for productivity, programming, and word processing. The idea is that these tasks are text-intensive, and a 4K resolution on a 27&quot; monitor is going to produce text sizes and UI element sizes that are too small to see comfortably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, I started looking at a 4K television that I could use as a computer monitor. Based on reports from other people, and on my desk size, it seemed that 40&quot; was about the right size. When looking for a 4K TV-as-monitor, I discovered that there are a few important factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Chroma 4-4-4: [Chroma][1] when used in reference to televisions refers to algorithms used to compress the RGB color signals. The more compression, the faster the signal can be transmitted and processed. This is fine for video or games, but when you start compressing colors, text can become blurry. Chroma 4-4-4 means that there is no compression. Most of the people I've spoken with have agreed that finding a tv that allows for 4-4-4 chroma is one of the most important factors when using a tv as a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;    * [Here is a much more detailed explanation of chroma and color compression][2]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI 2.0 input: There are two common HDMI standards, 1.4 and 2.0. Only 2.0 will support 4K @ 60Hz. 1.4 will maxes out at 4K @ 30Hz. The Hz refers to the refresh rate of the screen. For programming and general computer use, 30Hz may be fine for most people, but the difference between 30Hz and 60Hz when gaming is very noticeable. Many serious gamers use displays with a 120Hz refresh rate. The higher the rate, the less motion blur there is. This is especially important when the FPS of a game or video increases. In general, you won't notice a big quality difference from 60Hz to 120Hz unless your average FPS is also above 60. Unfortunately, for now, HDMI 2.0 doesn't support a 120Hz refresh rate at 4:4:4 Chroma, as the data bandwidth is too low. You would need either Display Port or USB 3.1 for this. Very few 4K TVs have a display port input, and I haven't found any that have a USB 3.1 video input. &#xD;&#xA; *    [Source on HDMI bandwidth.][3] &#xD;&#xA; *    [Source on 4K @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 Chroma not being possible][4]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Input Lag: Measured in milliseconds, this is the amount of time it takes before change in the source data is reflected on the screen. This rating is mostly irrelevant for video playback, as once the video starts, the response time doesn't really matter. However, it is very relevant in a monitor for general use, programming, and video games. A high response time will produce a noticeable lag between a mouse movement (or controller movement) and the change on the screen. In competitive, fast paced games like Call of Duty, or DOTA, even a small improvement in input lag can improve a person's ability. As I'm not in the upper echelons of competitive gaming, this isn't a huge factor but is still important. Input lag is inversely correlated with data bandwidth (i.e. chroma).Thus lag can be reduced by increasing chroma compression and using 4:4:4 chroma will produce the highest input lag for a given display. I haven't found any hard rule, but it generally seems that an input lag of under 50ms is good enough for both for general computing and general video gaming. For comparison, higher-end 1080p monitors have around a 15ms input lag. A couple of other points. Many TVs have a &quot;Game Mode&quot; which will reduce input lag at the expense of video or color accuracy. This is an acceptable trade-off for most instances. Since Chroma 4-4-4 is not nearly as important in video games as it is for displaying text and programming, increasing the chroma compression to decrease input lag is a good trade off. &#xD;&#xA; *    [CNET article on input lag and their guidelines][5]&#xD;&#xA; *  [AV Form Post on cumulative input lag for gaming][6]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in summary, I went looking for a 4K television that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Between 37&quot; and 43&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Capable of chroma 4:4:4&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;* Relatively low input lag&#xD;&#xA;* Under $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked at a number of options, but ultimately went with the [Samsung 40&quot; KU6290][7] for $300 (2016 holidays). The KU6290 is identical to the more popular 6300 except that is doesn't have the voice activated &quot;smart&quot; remote, and doesn't allow for Bluetooth audio connections. The television has good reviews on Amazon, and a number of people have recommended it for use as a computer monitor. Here is what I like about it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Multiple chroma levels (including 4:4:4)&#xD;&#xA;* [Low input lag][9]&#xD;&#xA;* Multiple modes (gaming, video, etc)&#xD;&#xA;* Lots of customization options. Check out the Amazon reviews for a helpful guide on which values to set for use as a PC monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* Available at a local retailer (Best Buy in my case) for ease of return&#xD;&#xA;* Wall mountable (uses 400mm x 400mm VESA brackets)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is an entry-level 4K tv, and there are some downsides. First, it has a low response time. Multiple reviewers have said that motion blur is noticeable in high-action movies. Second, the viewing angle is not very good when viewed more than 20 degrees off-center. Third, it can't reproduce as many colors as other TVs and monitors. None of these drawbacks are particularly worrisome for use as a PC monitor. The reduced color space may be an issue for graphic designers, but not for programmers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is the Amazon listing and reviews for the Samsung KU6300][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TV will be arriving next week and I will update my post once I have it configured. I'll be using it with an MSI gaming laptop with a GTX 1070.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling&#xD;&#xA;[2]: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/1381724-official-4-4-4-chroma-subsampling-thread.html&#xD;&#xA;[3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_2.0&#xD;&#xA;[4]: http://www.blurbusters.com/4k-120hz-possible-over-hdmi2/&#xD;&#xA;[5]: https://www.cnet.com/news/input-lag-how-important-is-it/&#xD;&#xA;[6]: https://www.avforums.com/threads/what-is-max-lag-deemed-acceptable-for-gaming.1501941/&#xD;&#xA;[7]: http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/40--class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv--2016-model--un40ku6290fxza/&#xD;&#xA;[8]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN50KU6300-50-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69VEE6/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480661477&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=KU6300&#xD;&#xA;[9]: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300&#xD;&#xA;[10]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN50KU6300-50-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69VEE6/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480661477&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=KU6300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="78fd37d9-cd3f-4f50-a5d4-8c0e98f802a8" CreationDate="2016-12-03T09:25:16.097" UserId="5077" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="I need something similar to what James asked [here][1], e.g. a headphone amp/splitter with separate output volume controls and 3.5 jacks for in and outs, but I have slight different needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. it must be USB powered or removable battery powered, no rechargeable lithium battery accepted here&#xD;&#xA; 2. it must have at least 3 jack outputs with their respective volume knobs&#xD;&#xA; 3. if nothing else exists, it can be a whole USB soundcard, because I'm going to use it only connected to a computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched several times, but either I'm not searching with correct terms, or such a product does not exist at all. All my searches ended up with the FiiO E6 at best, which is not what I'm looking for, because it's only two outputs and it uses internal lithium rechargeable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/501/portable-headphone-amplifier-splitter-w-separate-volume-control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1864" RevisionGUID="3426d698-5cf8-4a27-b925-fcdc30d3ed63" CreationDate="2016-12-03T22:19:37.987" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18602" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5891" RevisionGUID="14e76458-e352-4aba-acdc-8b0063cd5750" CreationDate="2016-12-04T01:23:54.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18607" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6369" RevisionGUID="9f24ce99-16a4-4297-8701-a900fbe89db5" CreationDate="2016-12-04T06:22:52.287" UserId="4523" Text="The best that I can come up with that meets your demands is the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fiio X5 (2nd Gen)](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9VN3NT3776&amp;cm_re=MP3_player-_-0G7-006T-00007-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note, this is not exactly cheap:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Type&#xD;&#xA;    Flash Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    Dual Micro SD card Supporting up to 256GB (128GB x 2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expansion Slot&#xD;&#xA;    Micro SD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display Size&#xD;&#xA;    2.4&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display Resolution&#xD;&#xA;    400 x 360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6372" RevisionGUID="76c13b29-7129-4b27-a5fa-414aed190d8a" CreationDate="2016-12-04T16:32:20.123" UserId="5101" Text="Is there a portable or travel wireless router that supports 5GHz 802.11ac? I'm looking to install one in my car with through its integrated USB port, or via 12v DC adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6372" RevisionGUID="76c13b29-7129-4b27-a5fa-414aed190d8a" CreationDate="2016-12-04T16:32:20.123" UserId="5101" Text="Is there a portable or travel wireless router that supports 5GHz 802.11ac that can be powered via USB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6372" RevisionGUID="76c13b29-7129-4b27-a5fa-414aed190d8a" CreationDate="2016-12-04T16:32:20.123" UserId="5101" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="13c98f15-95f8-4c90-a9fc-35152c9e4333" CreationDate="2016-12-04T18:31:21.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6374" RevisionGUID="e76af53f-4f0d-4b31-b1fc-e01627e38483" CreationDate="2016-12-04T23:08:47.430" UserId="5001" Text="[Buffalo Router](http://www.buffalotech.com/products/airstation-ac433-dual-band-wireless-travel-router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[D-Link](http://us.dlink.com/products/connect/wi-fi-ac750-portable-router-and-charger-3/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't know how they work but here are two of them.  I believe both of them meet all the specs you require" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="c8241401-2aea-4d7e-aa47-f5cea8b78b33" CreationDate="2016-12-05T06:29:34.327" UserId="5105" Text="I just bought Sony X800D TV and it comes with 2 hdmi ports that do 4k at 60Hz and 1 HDMI port that does 4k at 30hz. I have 2015 Macbook Pro 15&quot; with iris pro IGP. As you guys probably know, this macbook support just HDMI 1.4 and it only does 4k at 30hz. I want to output 4k at 60hz and my TV only has HDMI, so I cannot use display port or thunderbolt from my mac. I'm wondering if I could use mini displayport to HDMI adapter to output 4k 60hz. I tried one adapter from Wal-mart with 4k label, but my mac doesn't even recognize the TV is 4k capable anymore.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S : I'm not sure if this is the right forum to ask this question. If it is not, let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18638" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="c8241401-2aea-4d7e-aa47-f5cea8b78b33" CreationDate="2016-12-05T06:29:34.327" UserId="5105" Text="Mini displayport to HDMI adapter that does 4k at 60hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="c8241401-2aea-4d7e-aa47-f5cea8b78b33" CreationDate="2016-12-05T06:29:34.327" UserId="5105" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6374" RevisionGUID="04a7d8a0-1038-4bbe-9bb4-d04b8ac595cb" CreationDate="2016-12-05T11:18:58.173" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6380" RevisionGUID="42ef4161-f039-4677-8c05-ab0ecf0fcee2" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:06:12.613" UserId="3717" Text="Indeed, you need to use the Thunderbolt port of your MacBook to output the signal. According to [everymac][1], your MacBook is definitely capable of outputting 4k@60Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, you need a Mini Displayport to HDMI adapter, which does support 60Hz at 4k. I found [this one][2], and a [customer's review][3] verifies that it does work on his MacBook Pro 2015.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also note, that you need a HDMI 2.0 capable cable as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.2-15-iris-only-mid-2015-retina-display-specs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/10aOPzi&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/review/R20OPUIKBQ753K/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00S0BWR2K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6381" RevisionGUID="d2f1a7af-c782-49c7-8c22-cb4a41189be0" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:17:40.643" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest:  [Vantec VLink CB-HD20MDP12](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232066&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=mini_displayport_to_HDMI_2.0-_-12-232-066-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    UHD resolution up to 4096 x 2160 at 60Hz, 8-bit color&#xD;&#xA;    Compliant to DisplayPort Specification 1.2&#xD;&#xA;    Compliant to HDMI Specification 2.0&#xD;&#xA;    HDCP 1.4 and HDCP 2.2 content protection&#xD;&#xA;    3D video up to 1080P@120Hz&#xD;&#xA;    Color format: support RGB up to 12 bpc; YCbCr 4:4:4/4:2:2/4:2:0 up to 12bpc&#xD;&#xA;    Audio input: support up to 8 channels of LPCM at 192kHz sample rate and 24-bit audio sample size, compressed audio and high bit rate&#xD;&#xA;    DisplayPort: support 1.1a/ 1.2a/1.3; 1/2/4 lanes at 1.62/2.7/5.4 Gbps&#xD;&#xA;    DisplayPort Spread Spectrum Clocking&#xD;&#xA;    Supports 4K NVidia GTX series and ATI Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="dfe1bdd1-5602-4d9c-b71e-9c0ea0472cb0" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:51:27.483" UserId="5107" Text="As of present I have a Genius K9 118-Key Wired Dual-Color Backlight Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I've liked the keyboard, but it's reached the end of its lifespan. I've heard great things about mechanical keyboards, so I'm looking to make the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of programming, but also play a lot of games, so based on research it seems the best switch for me is either Cherry MX reds or browns. I've heard that browns aren't very good for perpetually shifting around keys like WASD, so I've decided on the reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, my requirements for a new keyboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must have large enter key spanning two rows&#xD;&#xA;- Must have backlight that is or has option for blue or orange&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight must shine only through character text on keys -- not glow in between the keys&#xD;&#xA;- Body must be black&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired connection (if the keyboard requires multiple, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be below $200, but preferably around $100-$150&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available for purchase from US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer if the spacebar was nice and fat as it is on my current keyboard, but I can adjust if it's not. I have no preference regarding multimedia keys, hand rests, or USB ports/headphone jacks built into the keyboard. I'm usually in a dark environment, so I need the backlight to distinguish between keys in the rare but possible event that becomes necessary, but I find the glow around the keys to be distracting, even if the color is static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the models I looked at, the two I liked the most were the [ASUS Strix Tactic Pro](https://www.asus.com/Keyboards-Mice/STRIX_TACTIC_PRO/) and the [Corsair K70 RapidFire](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/5991/5107). They both fit all but one of the requirements: the Strix doesn't have a double-row enter key, and the Corsair has glow around the keys instead of just through the characters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any options on the market that satisfy all of the listed requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNdUCm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18651" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="dfe1bdd1-5602-4d9c-b71e-9c0ea0472cb0" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:51:27.483" UserId="5107" Text="Programming/gaming mechanical keyboard with large enter key + backlight" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18652" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="dfe1bdd1-5602-4d9c-b71e-9c0ea0472cb0" CreationDate="2016-12-05T20:51:27.483" UserId="5107" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6374" RevisionGUID="1cfcc0dd-15ff-4c21-8c16-d9a1198a91ad" CreationDate="2016-12-05T21:27:14.553" UserId="5001" Comment="Updated to provide more detailed information regarding specifications that user was looking for and split answer into two per moderator advice about multiple recommendations" Text="[Buffalo Router Specs](http://www.buffalotech.com/products/airstation-ac433-dual-band-wireless-travel-router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Link](https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-AirStation-Wireless-Travel-WMR-433-BK/dp/B00KUB48KW) $104.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This unit is USB Powerable via 5V USB&#xD;&#xA;Supports IEEE802.11ac/n/a/g/b&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I would recommend reading the reviews on this model as there are a few things that it cannot do.  IE: 2.4 and 5G at the same time / lack of superior managmment interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="9f23278e-c86f-4bb6-b426-e68f8bf9851b" CreationDate="2016-12-05T21:30:52.367" UserId="5107" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="As of present I have a Genius K9 118-Key Wired Dual-Color Backlight Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I've liked the keyboard, but it's reached the end of its lifespan. I've heard great things about mechanical keyboards, so I'm looking to make the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of programming, but also play a lot of games, so based on research it seems the best switch for me is either Cherry MX reds or browns. I've heard that browns aren't very good for perpetually shifting around keys like WASD, so I've decided on the reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, my requirements for a new keyboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must have large enter key spanning two rows&#xD;&#xA;- Must have backlight that is or has option for blue or orange&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight must shine only through character text on keys -- not glow in between the keys&#xD;&#xA;- Body must be black&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired connection (if the keyboard requires multiple, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be below $200, but preferably around $100-$150&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available from or shippable to US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer if the spacebar was nice and fat as it is on my current keyboard, but I can adjust if it's not. I have no preference regarding multimedia keys, hand rests, or USB ports/headphone jacks built into the keyboard. I'm usually in a dark environment, so I need the backlight to distinguish between keys in the rare but possible event that becomes necessary, but I find the glow around the keys to be distracting, even if the color is static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the models I looked at, the two I liked the most were the [ASUS Strix Tactic Pro](https://www.asus.com/Keyboards-Mice/STRIX_TACTIC_PRO/) and the [Corsair K70 RapidFire](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/5991/5107). They both fit all but one of the requirements: the Strix doesn't have a double-row enter key, and the Corsair has glow around the keys instead of just through the characters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any options on the market that satisfy all of the listed requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNdUCm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6383" RevisionGUID="4ee0988d-39cb-4381-a9bc-98b92e20c673" CreationDate="2016-12-05T21:34:02.687" UserId="5001" Text="[D-Link AC-750 Portable](http://us.dlink.com/products/connect/wi-fi-ac750-portable-router-and-charger-3/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Link](https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-Portable-Charger-DIR-510L/dp/B00HGLOQ24) $98.09&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - IEEE802.11ac/n/a/g/b&#xD;&#xA; - Allows simultaneous 2.4G and 5G Networks&#xD;&#xA; - USB 5V Charging&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionaly serves as an additional battery and power source for other devices.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From reading the reviews it seems to be able to run on its own power for at least 4 Hours" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6374" RevisionGUID="dd53312a-a2ea-4a8b-ba86-91676770e930" CreationDate="2016-12-05T21:58:45.093" UserId="5001" Comment="formatting" Text="[Buffalo Router Specs](http://www.buffalotech.com/products/airstation-ac433-dual-band-wireless-travel-router)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Link](https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-AirStation-Wireless-Travel-WMR-433-BK/dp/B00KUB48KW) $104.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This unit is USB Powerable via 5V USB&#xD;&#xA; - Supports IEEE802.11ac/n/a/g/b&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I would recommend reading the reviews on this model as there are a few things that it cannot do.  IE: 2.4 and 5G at the same time / lack of superior managmment interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="a1d491a8-b2d8-46ec-aa4f-e1182865c3f6" CreationDate="2016-12-05T22:16:54.033" UserId="5107" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="As of present I have a Genius K9 118-Key Wired Dual-Color Backlight Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I've liked the keyboard, but it's reached the end of its lifespan. I've heard great things about mechanical keyboards, so I'm looking to make the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of programming, but also play a lot of games, so based on research it seems the best switch for me is either Cherry MX reds or browns. I've heard that browns aren't very good for perpetually shifting around keys like WASD, so I've decided on the reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, my requirements for a new keyboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must have large enter key spanning two rows&#xD;&#xA;- Layout must be same as previous keyboard (backslash next to enter, tilde left of 1, etc)&#xD;&#xA;- Must have backlight that is or has option for blue or orange&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight must shine only through character text on keys -- not glow in between the keys&#xD;&#xA;- Body must be black&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired connection (if the keyboard requires multiple, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be below $200, but preferably around $100-$150&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available from or shippable to US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer if the spacebar was nice and fat as it is on my current keyboard, but I can adjust if it's not. I have no preference regarding multimedia keys, hand rests, or USB ports/headphone jacks built into the keyboard. I'm usually in a dark environment, so I need the backlight to distinguish between keys in the rare but possible event that becomes necessary, but I find the glow around the keys to be distracting, even if the color is static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the models I looked at, the two I liked the most were the [ASUS Strix Tactic Pro](https://www.asus.com/Keyboards-Mice/STRIX_TACTIC_PRO/) and the [Corsair K70 RapidFire](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/5991/5107). They both fit all but one of the requirements: the Strix doesn't have a double-row enter key, and the Corsair has glow around the keys instead of just through the characters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any options on the market that satisfy all of the listed requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNdUCm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6384" RevisionGUID="91d59df6-fbc8-41bb-b0eb-acdfaa44f8ee" CreationDate="2016-12-05T22:49:12.110" UserId="5001" Text="It is obvious that the GE62VR is a &quot;Better&quot; laptop.  All specifications on the two are equal with the exception of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GE62VR has an additional 256MB M.2 SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GE62VR has an additional 3GB Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets get into Video memory.  While you do need a good video card for the applications you are planning on using the memory is not necessarily a benefit for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video memory will help you with: (SIMPLIFIED)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Loading textures&#xD;&#xA; - Holding the frame buffer&#xD;&#xA; - Holding the depth buffer (&quot;Z Buffer&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Holding other assets that are required to render a frame (shadow maps, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a great article at [Toms Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/graphics-card-myths,3694-5.html) on video memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end the GE62VR is a &quot;Better&quot; laptop but if you are not in need of the M2 SSD then I am not sure if the bit of extra VRAM will help you that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6374" RevisionGUID="d4185e91-19e8-4f7b-8091-d8bd3198c35b" CreationDate="2016-12-05T23:09:14.173" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="8d3079af-777e-4314-9d72-02a9fed54aad" CreationDate="2016-12-05T23:09:42.760" UserId="5107" Comment="added 202 characters in body" Text="As of present I have a Genius K9 118-Key Wired Dual-Color Backlight Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I've liked the keyboard, but it's reached the end of its lifespan. I've heard great things about mechanical keyboards, so I'm looking to make the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of programming, but also play a lot of games, so based on research it seems the best switch for me is either Cherry MX reds or browns. I've heard that browns aren't very good for perpetually shifting around keys like WASD, so I've decided on the reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, my requirements for a new keyboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must have large enter key spanning two rows&#xD;&#xA;- Layout must be same as previous keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- Must have backlight that is or has option for blue or orange&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight must shine only through character text on keys -- not glow in between the keys&#xD;&#xA;- Body must be black&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired connection (if the keyboard requires multiple, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be below $200, but preferably around $100-$150&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available from or shippable to US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I've decided it's fine if the key's aren't in the same place as my current keyboard, so long as the overall shape is the same (large shift on left, large enter, large backspace) and I can program the keyboard to change the location of keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer if the spacebar was nice and fat as it is on my current keyboard, but I can adjust if it's not. I have no preference regarding multimedia keys, hand rests, or USB ports/headphone jacks built into the keyboard. I'm usually in a dark environment, so I need the backlight to distinguish between keys in the rare but possible event that becomes necessary, but I find the glow around the keys to be distracting, even if the color is static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the models I looked at, the two I liked the most were the [ASUS Strix Tactic Pro](https://www.asus.com/Keyboards-Mice/STRIX_TACTIC_PRO/) and the [Corsair K70 RapidFire](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/5991/5107). They both fit all but one of the requirements: the Strix doesn't have a double-row enter key, and the Corsair has glow around the keys instead of just through the characters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any options on the market that satisfy all of the listed requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNdUCm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6386" RevisionGUID="be173cf7-0e71-4853-a63c-f04d802aa523" CreationDate="2016-12-06T00:07:24.350" UserId="4523" Text="For your listed purposes I would suggest the Apache Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SSD will speed up the loading of the OS, as well as editing programs installed to it, and the 16GB of ram will come in handy in media creation and 3D  modeling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6387" RevisionGUID="898129ba-bf73-4f4d-b0a5-4781c93946e5" CreationDate="2016-12-06T01:04:07.437" UserId="5113" Text="I have scenario where I'm plugging an [Intel X520-DA2][1] into an [Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha][2] and at each attempt to post, I get a &quot;55&quot; readout on the motherboard LED.  When I remove the card the system works fine again, but when I insert the card into any of the PCIe 3 slots I receive this LED error and no video output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some kind of a compatibility issue between the network card and the motherboard that I'm missing?  I've done similar arrangements before with these disparate types of PCIe cards with no problem, but it seems that I'm hitting a wall on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/39776/Intel-Ethernet-Converged-Network-Adapter-X520-DA2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO-ALPHA/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18670" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6387" RevisionGUID="898129ba-bf73-4f4d-b0a5-4781c93946e5" CreationDate="2016-12-06T01:04:07.437" UserId="5113" Text="PCIe v2.0 -&gt; PCIe 3.0 for 10GbE network card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6387" RevisionGUID="898129ba-bf73-4f4d-b0a5-4781c93946e5" CreationDate="2016-12-06T01:04:07.437" UserId="5113" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18675" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6384" RevisionGUID="be56aab7-e359-4252-a3d5-d0d4e34fdbe0" CreationDate="2016-12-06T03:01:33.493" UserId="155" Comment="formatting; punctuation for clarity" Text="It is obvious that the GE62VR is a &quot;better&quot; laptop. All specifications on the two are equal with the exception of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Hard Drive:** GE62VR has an additional 256MB M.2 SSD  &#xD;&#xA;**Video Card:** GE62VR has an additional 3GB memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's get into video memory. While you do need a good video card for the applications you are planning on using, the memory is not necessarily a benefit for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video memory will help you with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Loading textures&#xD;&#xA; - Holding the frame buffer&#xD;&#xA; - Holding the depth buffer (&quot;Z buffer&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Holding other assets that are required to render a frame (shadow maps, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a great article at [Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/graphics-card-myths,3694-5.html) on video memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end the GE62VR is a &quot;better&quot; laptop, but if you are not in need of the M.2 SSD then I'm not sure if the extra bit of VRAM will help you that much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18676" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6307" RevisionGUID="d344e1ea-19a9-4f80-8f3e-3a0905247422" CreationDate="2016-12-06T03:05:26.670" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18677" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6337" RevisionGUID="255d04a5-48a3-4630-b423-c69640f82828" CreationDate="2016-12-06T03:21:49.627" UserId="155" Comment="formatting and capitalization" Text="Okay did not get much response here so I did 5 more days of research and this is what I came to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor:** i7-6800K &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reason: I decided due to the amount of multi-tasking I do that the extra cores were too enticing to pass up.&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: Microcenter - $329.00&#xD;&#xA;- Note: There was a sale so the processor was only $10 more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cooler:** Corsair Hydro H100i V2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reason: I figured I would be tempted to overclock the 6700K so I justified the cost on both processors (another reason why I went with the 6800K)&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: Amazon - $99.99 (on sale)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** ASRock X99 Taichi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reasons: True quad channel MB, 8 DIM slots, dual NICs, builtiin Wi-Fi, dual M.2 ports, USB Type-C port, well-spaced PCIe ports&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: NewEgg - $199.99 - $20 Rebate + $0.99 Shipping = $181.98 (I could have saved another $30 with the combo at Microcenter but they did not have this board) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ram:** GSkill Ripjaws 4 DDR4 4x8GB 3000MHZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reasons: Ripjaws 4 was built specifically for Quad Channel vs Ripjaws 5 Etc / Good Value&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: NewEgg $199.99 - $20 Promo Code = $179.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Card:** Gigabyte GeForce GTX1060 GV-N1060G1GAMING-6GD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reasons: Do you know how hard it is to find and verify that a video card will actually support 4 monitors? I do now. Besides that it seems like a decent card for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: Amazon - $274.99 - $20 rebate = $254.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** Plextor M8PE M.2 2280 512GB NVMe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reasons: Super fast drive, almost as fast as Samsung 960 Pro for a lot less money. Samsung 960 Evo is not out yet (this would have been my preference).&#xD;&#xA;- Side note: I really wanted the AIC version of this drive but I goofed around and it sold out. Other vendors were too expensive and now I will have to get heatsink recommendations for this from this forum&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: Newegg $249.99 - $25 Promo code = $224.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PSU:** Corsair CS Series CS750M 750W Gold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Reasons: Plenty of power and room for extra stuff, gold rated, semi-modular, ON SALE&#xD;&#xA;- Vendor: Amazon - $79.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case:** Undecided, but I am going to go down to Frys and get something locally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Cost: $1350.93&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This ended up being a very painful experience but I do feel like I got a really good system out of this. I really struggled with another issue as well and that is the fact that the i7-7700K Is coming out in a month and smashes this processor in benchmarks. In the end when that happens most likely I will give this computer to my wife and daughter and put myself through this misery again.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this helps someone if they have this same struggle." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6388" RevisionGUID="c72a42c7-6894-4216-91b4-5df7e39604dc" CreationDate="2016-12-06T11:40:15.583" UserId="5065" Text="You can achieve this using an SDR (software-defined radio). It's essentially a device that can be programmed to transmit any radio signal you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[gps-sdr-sim](https://github.com/osqzss/gps-sdr-sim) is an open source Software-Defined GPS Signal Simulator. You'll find recommended hardware and build instructions on that website." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18684" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6388" RevisionGUID="63b01f67-4a9c-4046-b64e-0c1e52b49433" CreationDate="2016-12-06T11:49:14.433" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18685" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6388" RevisionGUID="2c580802-3945-4f16-b932-2c5538ac89a9" CreationDate="2016-12-06T12:52:42.110" UserId="5065" Comment="Provided links to the actual hardware, put the software example between parentheses." Text="You can achieve this using an SDR (software-defined radio). It's essentially a device that can be programmed to transmit any radio signal you want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nuand BladeRF board][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These SDR boards are known to be able to produce GPS signals:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [bladeRF](http://nuand.com/) (pictured above)&#xD;&#xA;- [HackRF](https://github.com/mossmann/hackrf/wiki)&#xD;&#xA;- [USRP](http://www.ettus.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To configure one of those to send out GPS signals, you could use for example [gps-sdr-sim](https://github.com/osqzss/gps-sdr-sim), an open source Software-Defined GPS Signal Simulator.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEpoO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6389" RevisionGUID="819cc7e6-ad2e-4941-b504-1df3e6b562cb" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:09:03.640" UserId="5114" Text="I installed OS X 10.12 on an external drive. I'd like to now swap the internal drive with the external drive. Will this work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6389" RevisionGUID="819cc7e6-ad2e-4941-b504-1df3e6b562cb" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:09:03.640" UserId="5114" Text="Can I use an external HD with OS X as an internal boot disc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6389" RevisionGUID="819cc7e6-ad2e-4941-b504-1df3e6b562cb" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:09:03.640" UserId="5114" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6140" RevisionGUID="9b7027d4-0baa-4d88-af34-761b546b098f" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:18:48.960" UserId="4523" Comment="added 358 characters in body" Text="I would recommend the [Acer VN7-592G-77LB](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315130&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 960M 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;    16 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;    15.6&quot; IPS FHD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;    15.35&quot; x 10.35&quot; x 0.90&quot; 5.07 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home 64-Bit&#xD;&#xA;    LED-backlit IPS display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cannot find any stats on battery life however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y700 80NV00Q9US](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834331907&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; GeForce GTX 960M 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;Quad Core Intel Core i7 6700HQ (2.60 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16 GB DDR4 Memory 1 TB HDD 256 GB PCIE SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; Full HD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;External DVD+-R/RW &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, no information on battery life found." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6390" RevisionGUID="e2440b35-cf21-4c45-a9f8-3f25bf4a4c1f" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:21:02.987" UserId="4523" Text="This is a tech support question and will likely be closed, but to answer the question, it should work.  I have in the past run multiple OS's on external disks, then installed them into the chassis with no problem.  All that changes is the connection interface." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18691" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6388" RevisionGUID="9d9f981d-2847-4a7c-b629-8a524f7df4a9" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:52:12.353" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6391" RevisionGUID="2beeeb62-1dc3-4c41-bef9-7b3e8084c753" CreationDate="2016-12-06T14:02:37.860" UserId="5110" Text="I trying to source an HD68 (Female) -&gt; HE68 (Female) SCSI cable (2 meters) with one end of the cable with a 90 degree angle for an instrument we are using.  If does not matter if the 90 is a right of left as we are only concerned with the clearance from the back of the instrument to the container.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is an adapter that does this versus a cable that would work to, though looking around I have been unable to find any cable that match this requirement. Any information on this would be great, thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6391" RevisionGUID="2beeeb62-1dc3-4c41-bef9-7b3e8084c753" CreationDate="2016-12-06T14:02:37.860" UserId="5110" Text="HD68 -&gt; HD68 SCSI Cable with angle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6391" RevisionGUID="2beeeb62-1dc3-4c41-bef9-7b3e8084c753" CreationDate="2016-12-06T14:02:37.860" UserId="5110" Text="&lt;scsi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6392" RevisionGUID="91230519-f1ba-4814-a5e5-c4ec7ed21906" CreationDate="2016-12-06T14:43:13.030" UserId="5001" Text="Gargoyle provides exactly what you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You did not indicate what requirements you had for speed but I would guess that lack of AC Compatibility would not be a deal breaker being how much the overages cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gargoyle offers a router that is pre-loaded with their firmware. [Link to Product](https://shop.gargoyle-router.com/products/gargoyle-gigabit-router) The cost is currently $85.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11 B/G/N, up to 300Mbps&#xD;&#xA; - 5x 1Gbps Port&#xD;&#xA; - WPA2, WPA and WEP supported&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the area where you can set a quota by IP[![Bandwith Quota Interface][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AAZFz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Additional Images of Interface](https://www.gargoyle-router.com/wiki/lib/exe/detail.php?id=screenshots&amp;media=screenshots:14_quotas.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that this will meet all your requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="bc6b8e94-5878-4fef-9d59-1ad5a52260f0" CreationDate="2016-12-06T16:53:48.267" UserId="4504" Text="I'm moving my desktop PC from the basement, to the living room (oh happy day!). The spot I've picked does not have access to an Ethernet port, so I'm shopping around for a pci/e wifi card that will do a couple things for me.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My home router is an AC1300 router, it throws a N connection in both the 2.4 and 5 bands. I'd like to connect to both bands at the same time, or the same band 2 times.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I'd like to keep my budget under 100usd, no preference on antenna positioning or brand.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Disclaimer---   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I understand that connecting to the router 2 times will not improve internet speeds, I'm after the local network transfer speeds.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm also aware that this will not improve signal strength  &#xD;&#xA;Why do I want this? Well, since you asked... I do several large file transfers multiple times a day... More speed means less downtime. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If this type of hardware doesn't exist, I will end up just running Ethernet upstairs again. I'd like to avoid it, because of reasons. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="bc6b8e94-5878-4fef-9d59-1ad5a52260f0" CreationDate="2016-12-06T16:53:48.267" UserId="4504" Text="PCI(e?) Wireless Card - Allows multiple connections to single router." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="bc6b8e94-5878-4fef-9d59-1ad5a52260f0" CreationDate="2016-12-06T16:53:48.267" UserId="4504" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="f9a036ee-28d5-4407-a108-f752c9a96fcd" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:01:24.077" UserId="4504" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm moving my desktop PC from the basement, to the living room (oh happy day!). The spot I've picked does not have access to an Ethernet port, so I'm shopping around for a pci/e wifi card that will do a couple things for me.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My home router is an Asus brand AC1300 router, it throws a N connection in both the 2.4 and 5 bands. I'd like to connect to both bands at the same time, or the same band 2 times.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I'd like to keep my budget under 100usd, no preference on antenna positioning or brand.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---Disclaimer---   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I understand that connecting to the router 2 times will not improve internet speeds, I'm after the local network transfer speeds.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm also aware that this will not improve signal strength  &#xD;&#xA;Why do I want this? Well, since you asked... I do several large file transfers multiple times a day... More speed means less downtime. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If this type of hardware doesn't exist, I will end up just running Ethernet upstairs again. I'd like to avoid it, because of reasons. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18703" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="f9a036ee-28d5-4407-a108-f752c9a96fcd" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:01:24.077" UserId="4504" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="PCI(e?) Wireless Card - Allows multiple connections to single router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="d08073d8-9c1f-4b38-8cbb-29f27c4bf19d" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:15:37.023" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for some device that would allow me to use a [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) without having to hold it with my hand (i.e., to have a hands-free stenomask). I plan to use the stenomask for speech recognition with my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only options I have found so far are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Vocedit's Hands Free Mask Stand](http://vocedit.com/product6.html), but they haven't replied to my email inquiring about how to fix the stand on the desk, so I am unsure how good this is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Phil Kaufman's [Voxrite hands-free option](http://www.voxrite.com/shop/), but they seem not to sold their hands-free device anymore as I cannot find the product on their website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are other devices achieving that goal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g57QC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsxrB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WNaP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="d08073d8-9c1f-4b38-8cbb-29f27c4bf19d" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:15:37.023" UserId="40" Text="Device that allows the use a stenomask without having to hold it with one's hand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18706" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="d08073d8-9c1f-4b38-8cbb-29f27c4bf19d" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:15:37.023" UserId="40" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18707" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="9fc52f89-24bd-4147-875a-6e7d27515a80" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:37:40.977" UserId="40" Comment="added 345 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some device that would allow me to use a [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) without having to hold it with my hand (i.e., to have a hands-free stenomask). I plan to use the stenomask for speech recognition with my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only options I have found so far are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Vocedit's Hands Free Mask Stand](http://vocedit.com/product6.html), but they haven't replied to my email inquiring about how to fix the stand on the desk, so I am unsure how good this is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    They do seem to have some plan to improve the hands-free option though, according to this [Facebook comment](https://www.facebook.com/talktechnologies/posts/1779587142303957?comment_id=1779951535600851&amp;notif_t=feed_comment&amp;notif_id=1474499281861945):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Phil Kaufman's [Voxrite hands-free option](http://www.voxrite.com/shop/), but they seem not to sold their hands-free device anymore as I cannot find the product on their website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are other devices achieving that goal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g57QC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsxrB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yaXnD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WNaP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6396" RevisionGUID="aba5a14a-5eb3-47d7-b37d-a6b58e11f13f" CreationDate="2016-12-06T18:38:28.460" UserId="5116" Text="Any recommendations on a fanless mini itx board with a 4x-16x PCI-E slot? Something a few years old ideally, as I need to keep costs down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current set-up is with a fanless Asus J1800-c, which runs really well, but only has a 1x PCI-E slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've set-up OpenBSD on this system with no problems so far and was going to go on and repurpose an Cisco EA2700 as a wireless AP/ethernet switch... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have decided a one-box solution would be better. Acquired an Intel 4 port GB Ethernet card... then to my horror realised it required a 4x PCI-E as minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have been out of the system-building game for so long I hadn't realised the slot had changed so much! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The board spec must have a low watt power passive CPU. A celeron would be fine, as with the J1800-C. Must also have 1 gigabit ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would ideally take the 4gb RAM, which is laptop style ddr3-1333, and low volatge (1.35v), and ideally have at least 1xUSB3 port, 1 gigabit ethernet port, and one SATA3 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5 years old at most, as it needs more juice than a simple router/firewall requires, due to running snort and various other in-line traffic sniffing stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently running the machine on a 90w pico-psu, and its stable. But suspect that won't be sufficient when the intel 4-port ethernet is added, as it requires about 10w.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the lower the power draw of the cpu/m'board, the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6396" RevisionGUID="aba5a14a-5eb3-47d7-b37d-a6b58e11f13f" CreationDate="2016-12-06T18:38:28.460" UserId="5116" Text="Fanless mini-itx motherboard with a 4x-16x PCI-e slot for OpenBSD project?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18710" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6396" RevisionGUID="aba5a14a-5eb3-47d7-b37d-a6b58e11f13f" CreationDate="2016-12-06T18:38:28.460" UserId="5116" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6398" RevisionGUID="f8bf2248-a298-49ad-9724-8fea9068d291" CreationDate="2016-12-06T19:04:52.490" UserId="4523" Text="This is all I could find:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestfinds.org/dual-ide-sata-drive-docking-station-with-memory-card-reader-usb-2-0-hub-c3a76a3b38acef05.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestfinds.org/camonity-2-5-3-5-sata-ide-hdd-docking-station-clone-hdd-enclosure-usb-2-ports-usb-2-0-hub-ms-m2-xd-cf-sd-tf-card-reader-480mbps-4c4567df2d676c02.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope these help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6399" RevisionGUID="72edb346-e134-42ec-ae5a-b7e102d4a326" CreationDate="2016-12-06T20:15:57.060" UserId="40" Text="You can use [Vox Helpers](https://www.facebook.com/vox.helpers)' stenomask stand:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supports the [Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 and 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) &#xD;&#xA;- C-clamp is 2&quot; wide and easily attaches to most work spaces. Other options are available for an extra charge:&#xD;&#xA;- Mask can be easily removed in a second:&#xD;&#xA;- You can bind to the shape that you need no matter what you have to clamp it to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know the price though, and their [website](http://vox-helpers.com/) is down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-hook that holds the Smartmic or mask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Close-up of Smartmic/mask holder without cover: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-clamp is 2&quot; wide and easily attaches to most work spaces. Other options are available for an extra charge:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-clamp in horizontal position:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mask can be easily removed in a second:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can bind to the shape that you need no matter what you have to clamp it to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/72jfk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIbNr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zreVk.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZJ7u.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTnCv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KO3Jz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZvAX.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kna5Q.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxU3k.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPkVF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNJfn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYZKC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SJcz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/asTDj.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18714" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6400" RevisionGUID="34809996-6dc5-41ce-829b-09d49fb658cc" CreationDate="2016-12-06T20:26:57.903" UserId="40" Text="You can use [HANDSFREEDesign](https://www.etsy.com/listing/479442710/handsfree-gadget?ref=shop_home_active_1)'s HANDSFREE Gadget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is a strap that attaches to the [Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 or 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) &#xD;&#xA;- It cost 39.99 USD&#xD;&#xA;- Only ships within United States. (takes 1 or 2 weeks to ship)&#xD;&#xA;- It can be used on both the regular mouth piece and the large mouth piece that covers your nose.&#xD;&#xA;- The device is supposed to have great grip (I haven't tried) &#xD;&#xA;- The grip is adjustable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bk2M2.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nOZHx.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6401" RevisionGUID="184e5199-e518-4dfa-aa71-43cb340ef5c4" CreationDate="2016-12-06T22:20:23.510" UserId="4523" Text="Would this be acceptable?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[GIGABYTE GA-AM1M-S2H](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128696)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Memory Slots 2×240pin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Standard DDR3 1600/1333&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Memory Supported 32GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;    1 (x4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express x1&#xD;&#xA;    2 x PCI Express x1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage Devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SATA 6Gb/s&#xD;&#xA;    2 x SATA 6Gb/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And as for a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;[AMD Athlon 5350 Kabini](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113364&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Core Name Kabini&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Threads 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating Frequency 2.05 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;L2 Cache 2MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturing Tech 28nm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64-Bit Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization Technology Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated Graphics AMD Radeon R3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Base Frequency 600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thermal Design Power 25W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6401" RevisionGUID="7edac243-9707-4f58-b048-7fd24115ed36" CreationDate="2016-12-07T00:13:07.167" UserId="4523" Comment="added 594 characters in body" Text="Lowest Cost option:&#xD;&#xA;[ECS KAM1-I (V1.0) AM1](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135388)  $25&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Memory Slots&#xD;&#xA;    2×240pin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Standard&#xD;&#xA;    DDR3 1600 non-ECC, Un-buffered&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Memory Supported&#xD;&#xA;    16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Channel Supported&#xD;&#xA;    Single-channel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expansion Slots&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;    1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini Card Slots&#xD;&#xA;    1 x Mini PCI Express x1 slot(s)&#xD;&#xA;    Mini PCI Express X1 slot(s) doesn't support Mini SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Highest price option:&#xD;&#xA;[ASRock AM1H-ITX AM1](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491)   $50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Memory Slots&#xD;&#xA;    2×240pin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Standard&#xD;&#xA;    DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Memory Supported&#xD;&#xA;    32GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expansion Slots&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;    1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 Slot (PCIE1 @ x4 mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini Card Slots&#xD;&#xA;    1 x Mini PCIe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And as for a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;[AMD Athlon 5350 Kabini](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113364&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Core Name Kabini&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Threads 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating Frequency 2.05 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;L2 Cache 2MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturing Tech 28nm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64-Bit Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization Technology Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated Graphics AMD Radeon R3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Base Frequency 600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thermal Design Power 25W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  25W was the lowest TDP I could find.&#xD;&#xA;Lowest wattage intel chip I could find had TDP of 53W." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6400" RevisionGUID="a21d2a12-2a10-4afd-b90a-55fb0600c70d" CreationDate="2016-12-07T00:17:23.677" UserId="40" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="You can use [HANDSFREEDesign](https://www.etsy.com/listing/479442710/handsfree-gadget?ref=shop_home_active_1)'s HANDSFREE Gadget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is a strap that attaches to the [Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 or 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) &#xD;&#xA;- It cost 39.99 USD&#xD;&#xA;- Only ships within United States. (takes 1 or 2 weeks to ship)&#xD;&#xA;- It can be used on both the regular mouth piece and the large mouth piece that covers your nose.&#xD;&#xA;- The device is supposed to have great grip (I haven't tried) &#xD;&#xA;- The grip is adjustable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bk2M2.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nOZHx.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4lGr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JCw4Q.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pq7HG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="42a3ceec-4f57-4b17-9a4f-07e4c8098842" CreationDate="2016-12-07T06:03:45.763" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8dab94e3-569c-4c56-a307-815da62d7026" CreationDate="2016-12-07T10:36:22.800" UserId="5120" Text="I want to install an outdoor surveillance camera. I looked into many models, but all have rather strange, i.e., non-outdoor, operating conditions they are specified for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically they have a temperature range of -20°C to 50°C (-4°C to 122°F). The upper-bound of all models i looked at is more than fine for central Europe, but the lower bound is not. Temperatures below -20°C are quite common where I live. Some cameras go down to -30°C (e.g., the UniFi Models). This is okay, but leaves only a small margin of error.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next strange thing is the &quot;operating humidity&quot;. Virtually all models I have found have something like 20 - 90% noncondensing. Even the water-proofed ones!?? We have fog over here. I do not live in England, but fog is still common here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations what to use?&#xD;&#xA;Concerning the other specs, I do not need much. A resolution of 1280x720 (or more) is fine. Night vision is nice, but not necessary. WiFi would be great, but I could also run a cable (since it already needs to be powered somehow). PoE is also optional." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8dab94e3-569c-4c56-a307-815da62d7026" CreationDate="2016-12-07T10:36:22.800" UserId="5120" Text="Webcam for low temperatures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18723" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8dab94e3-569c-4c56-a307-815da62d7026" CreationDate="2016-12-07T10:36:22.800" UserId="5120" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18728" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="cd0fa389-7b40-44ae-8c30-f8dce8c2c31e" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:53:22.403" UserId="1641" Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core proccess of the company is running on a 4 year old server, and at this point the I.T. Staff got the budget to buy a new server. The core process is a web app with intensive writing/reading from a poorly structured MySQL database, that's why we need a good match between a powerfull processor and an excellent drive to keep the process running until the database is remodeled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We got two offers one from a DELL retailer and another from HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. DELL PowerEdge T630 Server ($5196 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2650 v4 **x1** 2.2GHz 30M Cache (12 Cores) - &#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;800GB Solid State Drive SATA Mix Use MLC 6Gbps 2.5in Hot-plug Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. HPE ProLiant DL180 Gen9 ($4692 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 **x2** 2.1GHz 20M Cache (8 Cores Each) -&#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;240GB Solid State Drive SATA RI-2 LFF SCC SSD - &#xD;&#xA;1TB HP HDD 6G SATA 3,5&quot; 7,2K SC MDL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the HP brings two processors, but is relatively low on price, that brings my question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend?. Thanks in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="cd0fa389-7b40-44ae-8c30-f8dce8c2c31e" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:53:22.403" UserId="1641" Text="Comparison Between Servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="cd0fa389-7b40-44ae-8c30-f8dce8c2c31e" CreationDate="2016-12-07T12:53:22.403" UserId="1641" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="7a5c2b29-db05-4155-8085-cad8c32a8e19" CreationDate="2016-12-07T13:09:08.923" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 78 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;The core proccess of the company is running on a 4 year old server, and at this point the I.T. Staff got the budget to buy a new server. The core process is a web app with intensive writing/reading from a poorly structured MySQL database, that's why we need a good match between a powerfull processor and an excellent drive to keep the process running until the database is remodeled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We got two offers one from a DELL retailer and another from HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. DELL PowerEdge T630 Server ($5196 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2650 v4 **x1** 2.2GHz 30M Cache (12 Cores) - &#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;800GB Solid State Drive SATA Mix Use MLC 6Gbps 2.5in Hot-plug Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. HPE ProLiant DL180 Gen9 ($4692 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 **x2** 2.1GHz 20M Cache (8 Cores Each) -&#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;240GB Solid State Drive SATA RI-2 LFF SCC SSD - &#xD;&#xA;1TB HP HDD 6G SATA 3,5&quot; 7,2K SC MDL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the HP brings two processors, but is relatively low on price, that brings my question. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18733" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="e56780dc-38f5-40f2-8ed8-03d61ba33360" CreationDate="2016-12-07T13:14:33.423" UserId="1641" Comment="Explain the confusion due to processor. Adding some courtesy." Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core proccess of the company is running on a 4 year old server, and at this point the I.T. Staff got the budget to buy a new server. The core process is a web app with intensive writing/reading from a poorly structured MySQL database, that's why we need a good match between a powerfull processor and an excellent drive to keep the process running until the database is remodeled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We got two offers one from a DELL retailer and another from HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. DELL PowerEdge T630 Server ($5196 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2650 v4 **x1** 2.2GHz 30M Cache (12 Cores) - &#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;800GB Solid State Drive SATA Mix Use MLC 6Gbps 2.5in Hot-plug Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. HPE ProLiant DL180 Gen9 ($4692 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 **x2** 2.1GHz 20M Cache (8 Cores Each) -&#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;240GB Solid State Drive SATA RI-2 LFF SCC SSD - &#xD;&#xA;1TB HP HDD 6G SATA 3,5&quot; 7,2K SC MDL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the HP brings two processors, but it is relatively low in price, which gives me confusion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking into account that the fact that this database is poorly structured implies that it is necessary to resolve queries as fast as possible (speed per core) and also many queries simultaneously (number of cores).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you recommend?. Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18734" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="e56780dc-38f5-40f2-8ed8-03d61ba33360" CreationDate="2016-12-07T13:14:33.423" UserId="1641" Comment="Explain the confusion due to processor. Adding some courtesy." Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="f8579aca-02d6-448f-8781-e023182f4d8f" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:38:11.100" UserId="5001" Comment="Corrected last paragraphs flow to be more grammatically correct and read better.  Added additional relevant tags" Text="**What routers support per-device Internet bandwidth usage monitoring out of the box?** (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - We have a monthly quota that we're constantly in danger of exceeding, and it's very expensive when to go over quota. &#xD;&#xA; - There are 4 people in the house and three times as many devices, plus guests and their devices. We need to know which people and which devices are causing the most consumption, so we can then determine what to do about it. (Exile offending devices or the offending behaviour-on-device, and/or more equitably split the cost.)&#xD;&#xA; - Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The&#xD;&#xA;   monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external&#xD;&#xA;   (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't&#xD;&#xA;   need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.)&#xD;&#xA; - The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients&#xD;&#xA;   and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to&#xD;&#xA;   Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**A router feature I would like**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However, in my experience the RT-N56U [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4].  This makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="f8579aca-02d6-448f-8781-e023182f4d8f" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:38:11.100" UserId="5001" Comment="Corrected last paragraphs flow to be more grammatically correct and read better.  Added additional relevant tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18737" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="f8579aca-02d6-448f-8781-e023182f4d8f" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:38:11.100" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 60, 155 edit id of 543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18738" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6346" RevisionGUID="aa9bb4cd-3a14-4cb8-b1e6-a4608790add8" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:39:01.340" UserId="155" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18739" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6389" RevisionGUID="7f4f210f-1741-4650-993e-635e39ace5aa" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:39:13.633" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="f7102293-4b39-4679-ae4b-3497c2d3ec28" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:51:45.813" UserId="5126" Text="i am a freelance programmer. I am going to be in switzerland in january, so i can buy my hardware there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why gaming notebook for a programmer? because I cannot buy a desktop, as I am not sure I will stay where I currently am. You cannot travel with a desktop can you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it must run windows 10, i can install it myself but if there are no drivers, i cannot install it. I run linux in an OS box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the very least 8 GB ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 1 TB ssd that I would like to put in there. Not totally necessary, but I have it, so I should use it, right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as i won't be in switzerland after january, i won't be able to claim warranty most likely anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not more than 2000ish USD (can be a couple hundred more or less)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if it's retina display, must be at least twice the given resolution (as retina has 2 to 1 pixels e.g. retina 4000 x 1500 would be in reality 2000 x 750 which is not enough for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i have easy access to france and germany as well, but i doubt it would be cheaper there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18744" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="f7102293-4b39-4679-ae4b-3497c2d3ec28" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:51:45.813" UserId="5126" Text="Portable gaming notebook december 2016 or january 2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="f7102293-4b39-4679-ae4b-3497c2d3ec28" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:51:45.813" UserId="5126" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="42af0d53-6aa5-4adc-9c9a-15724814dc8c" CreationDate="2016-12-07T20:00:27.580" UserId="5126" Comment="added 158 characters in body" Text="i am a freelance programmer. I am going to be in switzerland in january, so i can buy my hardware there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why gaming notebook for a programmer? because I cannot buy a desktop, as I am not sure I will stay where I currently am. You cannot travel with a desktop can you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it must run windows 10, i can install it myself but if there are no drivers, i cannot install it. I run linux in an OS box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the very least 8 GB ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 1 TB ssd that I would like to put in there. Not totally necessary, but I have it, so I should use it, right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as i won't be in switzerland after january, i won't be able to claim warranty most likely anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not more than 2000ish USD (can be a couple hundred more or less)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if it's retina display, must be at least twice the given resolution (as retina has 2 to 1 pixels e.g. retina 4000 x 1500 would be in reality 2000 x 750 which is not enough for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i have easy access to france and germany as well, but i doubt it would be cheaper there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; or 17&quot; i am not sure tbh, as i have never seen a 17&quot; notebook. I guess 17&quot; is better for me as I don't care about weight and don't move it around so much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6155" RevisionGUID="45760eee-acf5-4994-ba2e-66d463dfd9ca" CreationDate="2016-12-07T22:23:48.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18748" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="62a82a6a-4968-4b91-a4b1-c3e78e3ba835" CreationDate="2016-12-07T23:23:48.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="c0dfd096-0643-4538-9c68-7bbecc24378d" CreationDate="2016-12-07T23:39:01.777" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 117 characters in body" Text="The core process of the company is running on a 4 year old server, and at this point the I.T. Staff got the budget to buy a new server. The core process is a web app with intensive writing/reading from a poorly structured MySQL database, that's why we need a good match between a powerful processor and an excellent drive to keep the process running until the database is remodeled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We got two offers one from a DELL retailer and another from HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. DELL PowerEdge T630 Server ($5196 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2650 v4 **x1** 2.2GHz 30M Cache (12 Cores) - &#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;800GB Solid State Drive SATA Mix Use MLC 6Gbps 2.5in Hot-plug Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. HPE ProLiant DL180 Gen9 ($4692 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 **x2** 2.1GHz 20M Cache (8 Cores Each) -&#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;240GB Solid State Drive SATA RI-2 LFF SCC SSD - &#xD;&#xA;1TB HP HDD 6G SATA 3,5&quot; 7,2K SC MDL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the HP brings two processors, but it is relatively low in price, which gives me confusion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking into account that the fact that this database is poorly structured implies that it is necessary to resolve queries as fast as possible (speed per core) and also many queries simultaneously (number of cores)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6408" RevisionGUID="c7ded403-3dde-4a36-9e97-8b38a9ef3fa0" CreationDate="2016-12-08T01:35:38.693" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a wireless presenter (a.k.a. Powerpoint Clicker, Presentation Remote Control Pen) with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a wireless presenter  that requires as little force as possible to push the buttons. The wireless presenter I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless presenter just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- one button for the previous slide&#xD;&#xA;- one button for the next slide&#xD;&#xA;- one button for laser pointer&#xD;&#xA;- it should be compatible with Microsoft Windows&#xD;&#xA;- it should be wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have unsatisfyingly tried the following devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Inateck 2.4GHz Wireless Pointer Control Powerpoint Presentation Remote Control Clicker Presenter Pen, Cordless Powerpoint Slide Changer for Presentations - Remote Control Range: Up to 66ft, Black](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LNP3VMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1): the actuation force is too high (well above 50 cN)&#xD;&#xA;- [Wireless Presenter, Doosl® Wireless Presenter, RF 2.4GHz Powerpoint Clicker Presentation Remote Control Pen.](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YG8DWNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) : the actuation force is too high (well above 50 cN)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6408" RevisionGUID="c7ded403-3dde-4a36-9e97-8b38a9ef3fa0" CreationDate="2016-12-08T01:35:38.693" UserId="40" Text="Wireless presenter with the shortest travel distance and lowest actuation force possible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6408" RevisionGUID="c7ded403-3dde-4a36-9e97-8b38a9ef3fa0" CreationDate="2016-12-08T01:35:38.693" UserId="40" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="7c5833db-3664-4a72-bc6f-e3b7df78d67e" CreationDate="2016-12-08T16:34:33.313" UserId="5126" Comment="added 46 characters in body; edited title" Text="i am a freelance programmer. I am going to be in switzerland in january, so i can buy my hardware there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why gaming notebook for a programmer? because I cannot buy a desktop, as I am not sure I will stay where I currently am. You cannot travel with a desktop can you? and i want to occasionally play a game on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it must run windows 10, i can install it myself but if there are no drivers, i cannot install it. I run linux in an OS box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the very least 8 GB ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 1 TB ssd that I would like to put in there. Not totally necessary, but I have it, so I should use it, right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as i won't be in switzerland after january, i won't be able to claim warranty most likely anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not more than 2000ish USD (can be a couple hundred more or less)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 15&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;not lower than 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if it's retina display, must be at least twice the given resolution (as retina has 2 to 1 pixels e.g. retina 4000 x 1500 would be in reality 2000 x 750 which is not enough for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i have easy access to france and germany as well, but i doubt it would be cheaper there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; or 17&quot; i am not sure tbh, as i have never seen a 17&quot; notebook. I guess 17&quot; is better for me as I don't care about weight and don't move it around so much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18762" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="7c5833db-3664-4a72-bc6f-e3b7df78d67e" CreationDate="2016-12-08T16:34:33.313" UserId="5126" Comment="added 46 characters in body; edited title" Text="Portable gaming notebook that has to be bought in the months december 2016 and january 2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18763" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="baf16ea3-c354-450a-9fca-934ce80ed630" CreationDate="2016-12-08T16:49:18.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6401" RevisionGUID="0be9cbba-0a4a-41c7-ad49-30b85fa35cad" CreationDate="2016-12-08T18:32:58.563" UserId="4043" Comment="formatting for legibility" Text="Lowest Cost option:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;[ECS KAM1-I (V1.0) AM1](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135388)  $25&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Memory Slots&#xD;&#xA;    2×240pin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Standard&#xD;&#xA;    DDR3 1600 non-ECC, Un-buffered&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Memory Supported&#xD;&#xA;    16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Channel Supported&#xD;&#xA;    Single-channel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expansion Slots&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;    1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini Card Slots&#xD;&#xA;    1 x Mini PCI Express x1 slot(s)&#xD;&#xA;    Mini PCI Express X1 slot(s) doesn't support Mini SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Highest price option:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;[ASRock AM1H-ITX AM1](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491)   $50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Memory Slots&#xD;&#xA;    2×240pin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Standard&#xD;&#xA;    DDR3 1600/ 1333/ 1066&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Memory Supported&#xD;&#xA;    32GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Expansion Slots&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI Express 2.0 x16&#xD;&#xA;    1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 Slot (PCIE1 @ x4 mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini Card Slots&#xD;&#xA;    1 x Mini PCIe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And as for a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;[AMD Athlon 5350 Kabini](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113364&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Core Name Kabini&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cores 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Threads 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating Frequency 2.05 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;L2 Cache 2MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturing Tech 28nm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64-Bit Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization Technology Support Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrated Graphics AMD Radeon R3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Base Frequency 600 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thermal Design Power 25W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  25W was the lowest TDP I could find.&#xD;&#xA;Lowest wattage intel chip I could find had TDP of 53W." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6401" RevisionGUID="0be9cbba-0a4a-41c7-ad49-30b85fa35cad" CreationDate="2016-12-08T18:32:58.563" Comment="Proposed by 4043 approved by 4523 edit id of 544" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6389" RevisionGUID="355e802b-215a-4330-91cb-9c397900aaac" CreationDate="2016-12-08T19:53:04.980" UserId="5114" Comment="added 318 characters in body" Text="I installed OS X 10.12 on an external drive. I'd like to now swap the internal drive with the external drive. Will this work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks. for anyone else who is interested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OS X installed on an external will indeed work when added as an&#xD;&#xA;   internal drive&#xD;&#xA; - You CANNOT install Windows (via bootcamp) on an external drive&#xD;&#xA; - A windows bootcamp installed on an internal drive cannot be booted when used as an external drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6408" RevisionGUID="9ae7b5d1-8770-4dbc-9996-7ffb52b549e2" CreationDate="2016-12-08T23:51:07.490" UserId="40" Comment="added 328 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a wireless presenter (a.k.a. Powerpoint Clicker, Presentation Remote Control Pen) with the shortest [travel distance](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Travel%20Distance) and lowest [actuation force](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/terms.php?t=Actuation%20Force) possible. In other words, a wireless presenter  that requires as little force as possible to push the buttons. The wireless presenter I'm looking for does not need to be mechanical, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless presenter just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- one button for the previous slide&#xD;&#xA;- one button for the next slide&#xD;&#xA;- one button for laser pointer&#xD;&#xA;- it should be compatible with Microsoft Windows&#xD;&#xA;- it should be wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind about the size, shape  and weight as long as I can hold it in one hand for one hour.  The price should be below 100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have unsatisfyingly tried the following devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Inateck 2.4GHz Wireless Pointer Control Powerpoint Presentation Remote Control Clicker Presenter Pen, Cordless Powerpoint Slide Changer for Presentations - Remote Control Range: Up to 66ft, Black](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LNP3VMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1): the actuation force is too high (well above 50 cN)&#xD;&#xA;- [Wireless Presenter, Doosl® Wireless Presenter, RF 2.4GHz Powerpoint Clicker Presentation Remote Control Pen.](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YG8DWNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) : the actuation force is too high (well above 50 cN)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware that there exist presentation tools, such as Niftio, have features that can allow to use a phone as a wireless presenter, but I would prefer not to have to rely on a phone.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6416" RevisionGUID="2425ab6b-8666-4378-8156-10197442fbf8" CreationDate="2016-12-10T00:49:35.390" UserId="1400" Text="Can someone suggest a cheap backup drive that holds maybe 1 tape for backups, is still sold, still popular, and is likely to still be accessible on it or another model in another 10 years?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18800" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6416" RevisionGUID="2425ab6b-8666-4378-8156-10197442fbf8" CreationDate="2016-12-10T00:49:35.390" UserId="1400" Text="Cheap, modern tape backup drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18801" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6416" RevisionGUID="2425ab6b-8666-4378-8156-10197442fbf8" CreationDate="2016-12-10T00:49:35.390" UserId="1400" Text="&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="9845eb74-b2c9-48a4-9489-2f7a22d982bf" CreationDate="2016-12-10T16:07:55.617" UserId="5143" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases GPU is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about the following configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz &#xD;&#xA;* SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* HD: WD 1TB 64MB DYSK SATA III &#xD;&#xA;* DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you advice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What motherboard would you recommend for this configuration? I would like it to have embedded GPU but with possiblity to add external GPU in the future. I would like it to have 2 more memory slots available for memory upgrade in the future.&#xD;&#xA;2. What power supply would be enough for this configuration?&#xD;&#xA;3. Does it make sense to buy CPU cooler for this configuration? E.g. SilentiumPC Fortis 3 HE1425." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18817" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="9845eb74-b2c9-48a4-9489-2f7a22d982bf" CreationDate="2016-12-10T16:07:55.617" UserId="5143" Text="Configuration for photo processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="9845eb74-b2c9-48a4-9489-2f7a22d982bf" CreationDate="2016-12-10T16:07:55.617" UserId="5143" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18820" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="fe8509b5-dad0-4183-b555-16acc48bc691" CreationDate="2016-12-10T16:22:10.693" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases GPU is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about the following configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz &#xD;&#xA;* SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* HD: WD 1TB 64MB DYSK SATA III &#xD;&#xA;* DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you advice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What motherboard would you recommend for this configuration? I would like it to have embedded GPU but with possiblity to add external GPU in the future. I would like it to have 2 more memory slots available for memory upgrade in the future.&#xD;&#xA;2. What power supply would be enough for this configuration?&#xD;&#xA;3. Does it make sense to buy CPU cooler for this configuration? E.g. SilentiumPC Fortis 3 HE1425." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="fe8509b5-dad0-4183-b555-16acc48bc691" CreationDate="2016-12-10T16:22:10.693" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="Motherboard for photo processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="c8df2f21-402c-4682-926b-05b56c59c058" CreationDate="2016-12-10T17:21:37.760" UserId="5143" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases graphic card is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about the following configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz &#xD;&#xA;* SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* HD: WD 1TB 64MB DYSK SATA III &#xD;&#xA;* DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you advice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What motherboard would you recommend for this configuration? I would like it to have embedded graphic card but with possiblity to add external graphic card in the future. I would like it to have 2 more memory slots available for memory upgrade in the future.&#xD;&#xA;2. What power supply would be enough for this configuration?&#xD;&#xA;3. Does it make sense to buy CPU cooler for this configuration? E.g. SilentiumPC Fortis 3 HE1425." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="c8df2f21-402c-4682-926b-05b56c59c058" CreationDate="2016-12-10T17:21:37.760" UserId="5143" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="Configuration for photo processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="d1435be4-ff31-45fa-b5a4-e2c508916a0b" CreationDate="2016-12-10T17:27:39.727" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 175 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases graphic card is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about the following configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz &#xD;&#xA;* SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* HD: WD 1TB 64MB DYSK SATA III &#xD;&#xA;* DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What motherboard would you recommend for this configuration?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like it to have embedded graphic card but with possiblity to add external graphic card in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like it to have 2 more memory slots available for memory upgrade in the future.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18825" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="d1435be4-ff31-45fa-b5a4-e2c508916a0b" CreationDate="2016-12-10T17:27:39.727" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 175 characters in body; edited title" Text="Motherboard for photo processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18829" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6419" RevisionGUID="8192f7b9-a6e5-428b-8447-7991c62162bb" CreationDate="2016-12-10T22:25:09.563" UserId="5143" Comment="added 149 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases graphic card is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about the following configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB &#xD;&#xA;* Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz &#xD;&#xA;* SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* HD: WD 1TB 64MB SATA III &#xD;&#xA;* DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I am looking for motherboard for this configuration. It must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* have graphic card built-in&#xD;&#xA;* have a possibility to connect external graphic card in the future&#xD;&#xA;* have 4 DIMMs slots&#xD;&#xA;* seat a core i5-6600K&#xD;&#xA;* have WiFi built-in&#xD;&#xA;* have a space for CPU cooler, because the mentioned i5 doesn't have it's own cooler&#xD;&#xA;* preferrably ATX&#xD;&#xA;* budget ~130 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What motherboard would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18841" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6423" RevisionGUID="9e88bef7-f3da-4f60-a9dc-0c83d7ec3952" CreationDate="2016-12-11T06:16:24.307" UserId="106" Text="I recently learned by chance about the [GPD Win](http://www.google.com/search?q=gpd+win&amp;&amp;tbm=isch), a &quot;laptop fitting in your pocket&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had been looking for a portable machine that could allow me to play some of the game titles of my Steam collection, and GPD Win seems to be an excellent candidate.  &#xD;&#xA;However, this [Reddit forum](http://www.reddit.com/r/gpdwin/) seems to suggest that the machine requires a number of tweaks to be taken the most of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there more user-friendly similar products, in the sense that they do not require customizations to provide the best &quot;nomad Steam gaming&quot; experience?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://c1.iggcdn.com/indiegogo-media-prod-cld/image/upload/823_11_yleijl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18842" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6423" RevisionGUID="9e88bef7-f3da-4f60-a9dc-0c83d7ec3952" CreationDate="2016-12-11T06:16:24.307" UserId="106" Text="GPD Win alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6423" RevisionGUID="9e88bef7-f3da-4f60-a9dc-0c83d7ec3952" CreationDate="2016-12-11T06:16:24.307" UserId="106" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;steam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18847" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="97df7f2b-79ca-4eed-9a8c-d69951261d4d" CreationDate="2016-12-11T07:59:18.777" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1155339/1u-dell-or-other-m-2-capable-raid-server-advice-needed" />
  <row Id="18848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="19c7d961-8391-4884-b74a-adfcaa854515" CreationDate="2016-12-11T07:40:16.683" UserId="5148" UserDisplayName="Enkode" Text="I am looking to build a new webserver and am in need of some hardware advice. Currently I have a Dell Poweredge 1950 with Dual Xeon E5345, Win 2008, 16GB RAM,  very solid server, zero problems. It is now several years old and time to upgrade not only the Hardware but to the latest OS. I don't want to upgrade unless I can get a server with RAID for the latest Samsung 960 NVMe M.2 512GB Drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements, not set in stone except #2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 1U Dell or other quality comparable server 2 U if needed but prefer 1U&#xD;&#xA; 2. Capable of utilizing 4 M.2 NVME drives with Hardware RAID controller&#xD;&#xA; 3. 64GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 4. Dual Intel Xeon processors... Might not be needed but I guess would prefer&#xD;&#xA; 5. Redundant Power Supplies&#xD;&#xA; 6. Dual LAN cards&#xD;&#xA; 7. Installing Windows Server 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="19c7d961-8391-4884-b74a-adfcaa854515" CreationDate="2016-12-11T07:40:16.683" UserId="5148" UserDisplayName="Enkode" Text="1U Dell or other m.2 Capable RAID server Advice Needed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="19c7d961-8391-4884-b74a-adfcaa854515" CreationDate="2016-12-11T07:40:16.683" UserId="5148" UserDisplayName="Enkode" Text="&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="c63fc4f4-d9d1-44b9-bf76-6b0d3f4d646b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T01:25:32.313" UserId="4689" Text="I'm actually a bit disappointing about the new MacBook Pro (with Touch Bar). I found this new device very attractive for many reasons. However, it is not supported under Ubuntu (Linux). I think seriously return this computer and buying a new one. I'm writing this question to get some recommendations. I'm looking for a new computer having 3.3 GHz Intel Core i7, at least 16 GB RAM, more than 500 GB (flash memory) of capacity. Moreover, I'm using computer for doing programming (Python, MySQL, TensorFlow). Could anyone recommend me a good computer in considering those specifications? I thought maybe about the new computer Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18881" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="c63fc4f4-d9d1-44b9-bf76-6b0d3f4d646b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T01:25:32.313" UserId="4689" Text="Specific recommendation for a new laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="c63fc4f4-d9d1-44b9-bf76-6b0d3f4d646b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T01:25:32.313" UserId="4689" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18883" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="bd174c21-0fac-47e0-a976-f05650361a90" CreationDate="2016-12-12T02:12:25.467" UserId="4689" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="3a535ec1-25d2-4dbb-a3bf-d6d16d1180f9" CreationDate="2016-12-12T02:38:43.917" UserId="4689" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="7778b927-4e5d-47c3-a699-0bc301541dd7" CreationDate="2016-12-12T02:56:42.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="bf14c7cb-c446-4680-bffc-00e27340aa0b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T08:10:43.657" UserId="2086" Text="Current processor is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I just want a CPU with probably twice the benchmark. I don't want to change motherboard so I will want the same slot. I want to know the CPU slot too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several CPU that match, I want the one which is the most cost effective and common. So please feel free to name several and I will examine which one more carefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is belarc advisors' result&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System	 	System Model&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 8.1 Professional (x64) (build 9600)&#xD;&#xA;    Install Language: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    System Locale: English (United States)&#xD;&#xA;    Installed: 19/03/2016 2:36:45 PM&#xD;&#xA;    Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported)&#xD;&#xA;     	Enclosure Type: Desktop&#xD;&#xA;    Processor a	 	Main Circuit Board b&#xD;&#xA;    2.80 gigahertz AMD Athlon II X2 240&#xD;&#xA;    256 kilobyte primary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit ready&#xD;&#xA;    Multi-core (2 total)&#xD;&#xA;    Not hyper-threaded	 	Board: DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Clock: 200 megahertz&#xD;&#xA;    BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 080015 07/14/2010&#xD;&#xA;    Drives	 	Memory Modules c,d&#xD;&#xA;    755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity&#xD;&#xA;    430.91 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 2, s/n C092533277, rev N1114H, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;    WDC WD5000AADS-56S9B1 [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, s/n WD-WCAV9S675266, rev 01.00A02, SMART Status: Healthy&#xD;&#xA;     	6144 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM0' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB (serial number SerNum02)&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM3' has 4096 MB (serial number SerNum03)&#xD;&#xA;    	 	Local Drive Volumes&#xD;&#xA;    	 					&#xD;&#xA;    c: (NTFS on drive 2) *	255.48 GB	143.29 GB free		&#xD;&#xA;    d: (NTFS on drive 1)	500.10 GB	287.62 GB free		&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    * Operating System is installed on c:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    	 	Network Drives&#xD;&#xA;    	 	None discovered&#xD;&#xA;    Users (mouse over user name for details)	 	Printers&#xD;&#xA;    local user accounts	last logon&#xD;&#xA;     MAMI	28/11/2016 2:18:00 AM	(admin)&#xD;&#xA;    local system accounts	&#xD;&#xA;     Administrator	21/11/2010 10:47:20 AM	(admin)&#xD;&#xA;     DefaultAccount	never	&#xD;&#xA;     Guest	1/03/2016 11:19:41 AM	&#xD;&#xA;     HomeGroupUser$	never	&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;     Marks a disabled account;    Marks a locked account 	 	HP LaserJet Professional P1102	on USB001&#xD;&#xA;    HP LaserJet Professional P1102	on 192.168.0.143_1&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Controllers	 	Display&#xD;&#xA;    AMD PCI IDE Controller&#xD;&#xA;    AMD SATA Controller (IDE Mode)&#xD;&#xA;    ATA Channel 0 [Controller] (2x)&#xD;&#xA;    ATA Channel 1 [Controller] (2x)	 	AMD Radeon HD 6670 [Display adapter]&#xD;&#xA;    LG M2341A [Monitor] (23.1&quot;vis, January 2010)&#xD;&#xA;    SAMSUNG [Monitor] (50.1&quot;vis, November 2012)&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Adapters	 	Multimedia&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller&#xD;&#xA;    WinCDEmu Virtual Bus&#xD;&#xA;    Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller (2x)&#xD;&#xA; 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   169.254.0.124 / 32&#xD;&#xA;    	Dhcp Server: 	none responded &#xD;&#xA;    	Physical Address: 	00:FF:02:55:EE:8D&#xD;&#xA;    	Connection Speed: 	10 Mbps&#xD;&#xA;    Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface&#xD;&#xA;     &#xD;&#xA;    Networking Dns Servers: 	70.50.253.49&#xD;&#xA;    121.182.27.204&#xD;&#xA;    	 	Realtek Digital Input (Realtek High Definition Audio)&#xD;&#xA;    Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio)&#xD;&#xA;    Realtek HDMI Output (2- ATI HDMI Audio)&#xD;&#xA;    Logitech Driver Interface (5x)&#xD;&#xA;    HID-compliant consumer control device (3x)&#xD;&#xA;    HID-compliant system controller&#xD;&#xA;    HID-compliant vendor-defined device (3x)&#xD;&#xA;    USB Input Device (3x)&#xD;&#xA;    HID-compliant mouse&#xD;&#xA;    Logitech HID-compliant Cordless Mouse&#xD;&#xA;    Cisco33897&#xD;&#xA;    Root Print Queue&#xD;&#xA;    LANDevice&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft Device Association Root Enumerator&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft IPv4 IPv6 Transition Adapter Bus&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft Radio Device Enumeration Bus&#xD;&#xA;    WAN Connection Device&#xD;&#xA;    WANDevice&#xD;&#xA;    Microsoft Mouse and Keyboard Detection Driver (USB)&#xD;&#xA;    USB Composite Device&#xD;&#xA;    USB Root Hub (7x)&#xD;&#xA;    Generic volume shadow copy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18890" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="bf14c7cb-c446-4680-bffc-00e27340aa0b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T08:10:43.657" UserId="2086" Text="I want a cost effective replacement for my CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="bf14c7cb-c446-4680-bffc-00e27340aa0b" CreationDate="2016-12-12T08:10:43.657" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18905" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6387" RevisionGUID="2d2e72e6-de7f-4d29-8c1a-77164a24159d" CreationDate="2016-12-12T13:28:07.640" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="bbefe51d-7476-4bf4-9c38-036fffbaf7d5" CreationDate="2016-12-12T15:18:19.553" UserId="5165" Text="I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything i see with GDDR5 and 256 bit is expensive for the use I'll be giving to this computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are some of the options I've looked at but i'm wondering about the performance comparison. Will the new models generation make up for the slower ram and lower memory interface?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ATI Radeon HD 5450 1Gb GDDR3 - 64bits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Radeon HD 6450 2Gb GDDR3 - 64bits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Radeon R5 230  1Gb GDDR3 - 64bits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Radeon R7 240  1Gb GDDR3 - 128bits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="bbefe51d-7476-4bf4-9c38-036fffbaf7d5" CreationDate="2016-12-12T15:18:19.553" UserId="5165" Text="Replacement for old Radeon HD 4870 1-Gb 256 bit GDDR5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18912" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="bbefe51d-7476-4bf4-9c38-036fffbaf7d5" CreationDate="2016-12-12T15:18:19.553" UserId="5165" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18913" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="a30d650c-bec3-4133-9417-9d21474a1548" CreationDate="2016-12-12T15:26:10.830" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6439" RevisionGUID="11a9898d-85f6-4e25-b5d0-5f1d219380f6" CreationDate="2016-12-12T15:46:50.670" UserId="4504" Text="I found the answer  [here, by user spiff][1] (First line edited to match context) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual band cards cannot connect to two signals at once, the term you are looking for is &quot;simultaneous dual-band&quot; which is also called &quot;dual-band concurrent&quot;. I'm not aware of any client card that is. Simultaneous dual-band support is something only APs do, in order to support legacy 2.4GHz clients and more modern 5GHz clients at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want your dual-band client card to automatically pick the best band, make sure both radios in your simultaneous dual-band AP are publishing the same network name (SSID) with the same security mode and same password. I recommend WPA2-personal a.k.a. WPA2-PSK, and I recommend AES-CCMP only; don't bother enabling TKIP (this may be called something like &quot;WPA2/WPA mixed mode&quot;) unless you know for a fact that you still have an old product around from c. 2002-2003 that supports TKIP but not AES.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a simultaneous dual-band AP, and instead have two separate APs (one for 2.4 and one for 5GHz), still make sure they're both publishing the same network name, with the exact same security mode and password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/774256/how-do-i-use-my-dual-band-wi-fi-card-to-connect-to-5ghz-and-2-4ghz-simultaneousl" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6404" RevisionGUID="8cfc86b7-73c6-4684-95e0-aff55d68db52" CreationDate="2016-12-12T16:08:42.477" UserId="1641" Comment="Adding Question." Text="The core process of the company is running on a 4 year old server, and at this point the I.T. Staff got the budget to buy a new server. The core process is a web app with intensive writing/reading from a poorly structured MySQL database, that's why we need a good match between a powerful processor and an excellent drive to keep the process running until the database is remodeled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We got two offers one from a DELL retailer and another from HP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. DELL PowerEdge T630 Server ($5196 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2650 v4 **x1** 2.2GHz 30M Cache (12 Cores) - &#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;800GB Solid State Drive SATA Mix Use MLC 6Gbps 2.5in Hot-plug Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. HPE ProLiant DL180 Gen9 ($4692 USD):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 **x2** 2.1GHz 20M Cache (8 Cores Each) -&#xD;&#xA;RAM 16x2 GB RDIMM - &#xD;&#xA;240GB Solid State Drive SATA RI-2 LFF SCC SSD - &#xD;&#xA;1TB HP HDD 6G SATA 3,5&quot; 7,2K SC MDL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the HP brings two processors, but it is relatively low in price, which gives me confusion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking into account that the fact that this database is poorly structured, implies that it is necessary to resolve queries as fast as possible (speed per core) and also many queries simultaneously (number of cores); which one would you recommend?. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="02b1d4ae-3b13-4d44-9302-73805a2d4021" CreationDate="2016-12-12T17:35:00.177" UserId="5165" Comment="Added more information" Text="I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modern AMD card would have a similar performance and work with my computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are:&#xD;&#xA;Intel Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4 Gb 1333 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: ASRock G41C-GS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: 750 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can give any additional information needed to properly answer this question.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6441" RevisionGUID="f7226396-9659-4b43-bab5-e101565d6af0" CreationDate="2016-12-12T18:05:24.740" UserId="4523" Text="If you can find one, I would suggest going with an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a system running this chip, running as a server currently.  Nothing but smooth sailing when I was using it as a gaming/overclocking testbed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6443" RevisionGUID="19b07e1e-313b-4bcb-891d-7590eb02aea4" CreationDate="2016-12-12T22:00:41.830" UserId="241" Text="You don't specify a price range, but your use of the word &quot;cheap&quot; implies you looked at what's commercially available and were shocked by the fact that even low-end tape drives run around $2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend getting a secondhand Quantum TC-L52AN (internal drive) or TC-L52BN (the same thing, in an external enclosure).  I don't have experience with this particular model, but I've had good luck with Quantum tape drives in the past.  They run around $500-$800 on Ebay; you'll probably need a SAS controller card as well, but those can be found for under $100.  The LTO standard requires two generations of backward compatibility, so the current LTO-7 drives can read the TC-L52AN's LTO-5 tapes.  Ten years from now, you'll be able to get a secondhand LTO-7 drive to read your tapes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18930" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="fa4a5f91-e145-4817-82b9-5b4ac1d9c598" CreationDate="2016-12-13T00:17:18.870" UserId="4689" Comment="added 183 characters in body" Text="'m actually a bit disappointing about the new MacBook Pro (with Touch Bar). I found this new device very attractive for many reasons. However, it is not supported under Ubuntu (Linux). I think seriously return this computer and buying a new one. I'm writing this question to get some recommendations. I'm looking for a new computer having 3.3 GHz Intel Core i7, at least 16 GB RAM, more than 500 GB (flash memory) of capacity. Moreover, I'm using computer for doing programming (Python, MySQL, TensorFlow). Could anyone recommend me a good computer in considering those specifications? I thought maybe about the new computer Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In fact, I start a new project that could take between four and six years to realize; hence, I just want the best computer (don't care about the price)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18934" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="190be9bf-d0cc-4d18-b1b9-3265ceabebae" CreationDate="2016-12-13T01:35:34.600" UserId="5165" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go. Prize between (50$-100$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modern AMD card would have a similar performance and work with my computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are:&#xD;&#xA;Intel Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4 Gb 1333 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: ASRock G41C-GS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: 750 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can give any additional information needed to properly answer this question.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="8647e41f-cf51-4db7-9a1d-a59b88a1f0a9" CreationDate="2016-12-13T08:13:36.920" UserId="5148" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am looking to build a new webserver and am in need of some hardware advice. Currently I have a Dell Poweredge 1950 with Dual Xeon E5345, Win 2008, 16GB RAM,  very solid server, zero problems. It is now several years old and time to upgrade not only the Hardware but to the latest OS. I don't want to upgrade unless I can get a server with hardware RAID 5 for the latest Samsung 960 NVMe m.2 / u.2 512GB Drives x 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements, not set in stone except #2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 1U Dell or other quality comparable server 2 U if needed but prefer 1U&#xD;&#xA; 2. Capable of utilizing 4 m.2 / u.2 NVME drives with Hardware RAID controller&#xD;&#xA; 3. 64GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 4. Dual Intel Xeon processors... Might not be needed but I guess would prefer&#xD;&#xA; 5. Redundant Power Supplies&#xD;&#xA; 6. Dual LAN cards&#xD;&#xA; 7. Installing Windows Server 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6425" RevisionGUID="8647e41f-cf51-4db7-9a1d-a59b88a1f0a9" CreationDate="2016-12-13T08:13:36.920" UserId="5148" Comment="added 27 characters in body; edited title" Text="1U Dell or other NVME m.2 / u.2 Capable RAID server Advice Needed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="6c9a429c-e309-406e-8b4f-a97ff6e468d1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T14:43:01.647" UserId="5170" Text="as you can already see in the title, I'm searching for an (alternative) power adapter which is compatible to my Lenovo Ideapad flex 15.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old power supply was the orginal included one, when I brought the Notebook. Unfortuantely, I've lost my old one and need a new. After that,&#xD;&#xA;I've asked the lenovo support, if it is possilbe to get a new one which match to my device. Yes it was, but I found out the price is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After a short search I saw these https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=universal+notebook+adapter universal notebook adapter. The price&#xD;&#xA;and the idea captured my interest, so I decide these one should be my new power supply. However cause of the huge selection and types I've&#xD;&#xA;lost very fast the overview about that. And I must also say that I don't have not any knowledge to power supplies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will use the new power supply for all time, so it should not be for occasional use. Also it should be very versatile to use, because I have many &#xD;&#xA;other different laptops and traveling around the world, so a flexible power input and output would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions about that are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    -How to buy a  secound power supply for notebook?&#xD;&#xA;    -What can I do wrong with buying a new power supply?&#xD;&#xA;    -Should I buy the orginal one direct from manufacturer or is an replacement power supply enough?&#xD;&#xA;    -What Volt, Ampere and Watt should the supply have?&#xD;&#xA;    -Does I have also have warranty from the manufacturer, if his power supply damage my laptop?&#xD;&#xA;    -What power adapter would you recommend or do you know any good tests about that? (I live in Germany, so please recommend me only devices &#xD;&#xA;    which are availble in Germany&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pkLv7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18944" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="6c9a429c-e309-406e-8b4f-a97ff6e468d1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T14:43:01.647" UserId="5170" Text="How to buy a correct power supply for notebook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18945" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="6c9a429c-e309-406e-8b4f-a97ff6e468d1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T14:43:01.647" UserId="5170" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="356573f7-c0a3-4e79-92e0-2f607d815078" CreationDate="2016-12-13T16:46:52.760" UserId="2086" Comment="deleted 3947 characters in body" Text="Current processor is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I just want a CPU with probably twice the benchmark. I don't want to change motherboard so I will want the same slot. I want to know the CPU slot too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several CPU that match, I want the one which is the most cost effective and common. So please feel free to name several and I will examine which one more carefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I've tried so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked what's the socket for the motherboard. The motherboard is not famous I can't find it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I found out that AMD Athlon II X2 240 uses AM3 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I go here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there I saw AM3/AM3+ socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's hard for me to find the benchmark result for AM3 socket alone there. I may pick a CPU with AM3+ socket that will simply not fit the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="7c337f79-ff8b-444a-a9fc-20505af8a5e2" CreationDate="2016-12-13T19:35:24.440" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off topic questions, fixed grammar and spelling." Text="As you can already see in the title, I'm searching for an (alternative) power adapter which is compatible to my Lenovo IdeaPad Flex 15.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old power supply was the original included one, when I brought the notebook. Unfortunately, I've lost my old one and need a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;I've asked the Lenovo support, if it is possible to get a new one that matches my device. Yes it was, but I found out it was too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After a short search I saw these https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=universal+notebook+adapter universal notebook adapter. The price and the idea captured my interest, so I decide that one of these should be my new power supply. However, because of the huge selection and options, I don't know what would work for me. I must also say that I don't have any knowledge about power supplies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will become my main power supply, so it should not be for occasional use. Also it should be very versatile to use, because I have many &#xD;&#xA;other different laptops and traveling around the world, so a flexible power input and output would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What power adapter would you recommend? (I live in Germany)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pkLv7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6448" RevisionGUID="0d124af6-81e9-4306-b856-8eee0b267bba" CreationDate="2016-12-13T20:45:48.757" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest the following:&#xD;&#xA;[Coolermaster MasterWatt Next Gen 90w](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA91N4DF3498&amp;cm_re=Coolermaster_laptop_power_supply-_-34-989-710-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Universal convenience&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 90% efficiency&#xD;&#xA;    Nine different tips, including square Lenovo solution&#xD;&#xA;    Meets latest US Level VI energy standards&#xD;&#xA;    100,000 hour(s) life expectancy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6423" RevisionGUID="831fe92c-461a-48cc-95ce-6285d2749fc0" CreationDate="2016-12-13T23:04:36.750" UserId="106" Comment="added 68 characters in body; edited title" Text="I recently learned by chance about the [GPD Win](http://www.google.com/search?q=gpd+win&amp;&amp;tbm=isch), a &quot;laptop fitting in your pocket&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had been looking for a portable machine with joystick/controllers that I could take on a crowded metro, and that could allow me to play some of the game titles of my Steam collection, and GPD Win seems to be an excellent candidate.  &#xD;&#xA;However, this [Reddit forum](http://www.reddit.com/r/gpdwin/) seems to suggest that the machine requires a number of tweaks to be taken the most of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there more user-friendly similar products, in the sense that they do not require customizations to provide the best &quot;nomad Steam gaming&quot; experience?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://c1.iggcdn.com/indiegogo-media-prod-cld/image/upload/823_11_yleijl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6423" RevisionGUID="831fe92c-461a-48cc-95ce-6285d2749fc0" CreationDate="2016-12-13T23:04:36.750" UserId="106" Comment="added 68 characters in body; edited title" Text="GPD Win alternatives for hand-held Steam gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="4253976d-7252-4947-86d2-9ef6c41b5bf8" CreationDate="2016-12-14T02:55:49.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18956" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="16607022-2f88-41f9-ad85-cd5af01cfd48" CreationDate="2016-12-14T04:51:50.837" UserId="2086" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="Current processor is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I just want a CPU with probably twice the benchmark. I don't want to change motherboard so I will want the same slot. I want to know the CPU slot too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several CPU that match, I want the one which is the most cost effective and common. So please feel free to name several and I will examine which one more carefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I've tried so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked what's the socket for the motherboard. The motherboard is not famous I can't find it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I found out that AMD Athlon II X2 240 uses AM3 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I go here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there I saw AM3/AM3+ socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's hard for me to find the benchmark result for AM3 socket alone there. I may pick a CPU with AM3+ socket that will simply not fit the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if my CPU is 32 or 64 bits and I wonder if changing that will cause problems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This shows that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Athlon%20II%20X2%20240%20-%20ADX240OCK23GQ%20(ADX240OCGQBOX).html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU support both AM2+ and AM3 socket. I am very confused. How can the same CPU support 2 sockets? Is AM2+ and AM3 compatible or what?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6450" RevisionGUID="f6fe263a-fdf1-456b-99e4-c5e1a8e3b07a" CreationDate="2016-12-14T12:24:41.477" UserId="674" Text="Finally LG will introduce the [32UD99][1] at CES 2017. LG states that it will fully support teh HDR10 standard. It also has 4K so it seems to meet the requirements of my question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm still leaving the answer of INV3NT3D as accepted for now because full specification isn't out yet. Also now one knows if it'll be recommendable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lgnewsroom.com/2016/12/lgs-newest-most-exciting-4k-hdr-monitors-coming-to-ces-2017/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="33d69352-fa0a-4cf1-8ada-543604a843d7" CreationDate="2016-12-14T13:52:45.943" UserId="5176" Text="What's the difference between&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB5000100)   &#xD;&#xA;and &#xD;&#xA;* 5TB USB 3.0 3,5 Seagate Expansion Desktop, STEB5000200 ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first is 50 % price of the second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;1. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt…/…/ref=sr_1_1&#xD;&#xA;2. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt…/…/ref=sr_1_1&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18959" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="33d69352-fa0a-4cf1-8ada-543604a843d7" CreationDate="2016-12-14T13:52:45.943" UserId="5176" Text="https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-STEB5000200-Black/dp/B00UNA1O0W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481723278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=STEB5000200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="33d69352-fa0a-4cf1-8ada-543604a843d7" CreationDate="2016-12-14T13:52:45.943" UserId="5176" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6452" RevisionGUID="8689a372-390b-4bfc-b8f3-23d4fb9d807e" CreationDate="2016-12-14T14:04:49.283" UserId="5163" Text="From Seagate's [**data sheet**][1], I've noticed 3 things: &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;1. The only thing different across different models (with different serial numbers) is the capacity.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;2. STEB5000200 is marketed for EMEA region (Europe, middle east and africa), while STEB5000100 is for America (NA I would suppose).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;3. They both have 5TB capacity so there shouldn't be any obvious technical differences, apart from marketing, quota and maybe import tax.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/expansion-fam/expansion-external/en-us/docs/expansion-desktop-hard-drive-ds1843-2-1502us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18963" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="6812210a-7afa-4b1d-80fc-907e2916f2f0" CreationDate="2016-12-14T14:48:07.077" UserId="4827" Text="From Intel Ark page, the following Core CPUs are shipped with Iris Pro graphics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6785R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6685R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6585R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6970HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6870HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6770HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6350HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've been searching for a suitable motherboard/laptop/desktop with one of these processors, and the only item I've come across so far is the Skull Canyon kit (running on 6770HQ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone point me to a motherboard (or laptop/desktop, preferably without a discrete graphics card) having one of these CPUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="6812210a-7afa-4b1d-80fc-907e2916f2f0" CreationDate="2016-12-14T14:48:07.077" UserId="4827" Text="Motherboard/laptop running on Intel Skylake Core i7 CPU with Iris Pro 580 graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="6812210a-7afa-4b1d-80fc-907e2916f2f0" CreationDate="2016-12-14T14:48:07.077" UserId="4827" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="f9d01e20-a46e-4954-8fb3-1d1fc5232bb6" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:03:00.310" UserId="4827" Comment="edited title" Text="Motherboard/laptop powered by Intel Skylake Core i7 CPU with Iris Pro 580 graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="f9d01e20-a46e-4954-8fb3-1d1fc5232bb6" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:03:00.310" UserId="4827" Comment="edited title" Text="From Intel Ark page, the following Core CPUs are shipped with Iris Pro graphics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6785R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6685R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6585R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6970HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6870HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6770HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6350HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've been searching for a suitable motherboard/laptop/desktop with one of these processors, and the only item I've come across so far is the Skull Canyon kit (running on 6770HQ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone point me to any motherboard (or laptop/desktop, preferably without a discrete graphics card) having one of these CPUs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18968" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="14a751a2-12f4-4467-83bf-081034698469" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:07:47.860" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18969" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="5d2aa048-6506-4a07-ab78-b9907e780dc3" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:08:49.950" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18970" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="4b9645b9-6ff6-4af6-b6d7-b4b2b2477e1d" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:10:04.937" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 357 characters in body" Text="Current processor is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I just want a CPU with probably twice the benchmark. I don't want to change motherboard so I will want the same slot. I want to know the CPU slot too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are several CPU that match, I want the one which is the most cost effective and common. So please feel free to name several and I will examine which one more carefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I've tried so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked what's the socket for the motherboard. The motherboard is not famous I can't find it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I found out that AMD Athlon II X2 240 uses AM3 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I go here&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there I saw AM3/AM3+ socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's hard for me to find the benchmark result for AM3 socket alone there. I may pick a CPU with AM3+ socket that will simply not fit the computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="3c446ee7-51c7-4a70-bff0-4285e88938fb" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:01:11.430" UserId="4827" Comment="deleted 32 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm trying to build a workstation with an Intel Core i7 CPU that comes with Iris Pro graphics. From Intel Ark page, the following Core CPUs are shipped with Iris Pro 580:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6785R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6685R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6585R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6970HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6870HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6770HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6350HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've not been able to find a motherboard from any of the major vendors (ASUS/Asrock/Gigabyte ...) that supports these processors. Could someone point me to the right place?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18973" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="3c446ee7-51c7-4a70-bff0-4285e88938fb" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:01:11.430" UserId="4827" Comment="deleted 32 characters in body; edited title" Text="Motherboard that supports Intel Skylake Core i7 CPU with Iris Pro 580 graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18974" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="329e2b33-ee2f-4c10-b13b-b2e26dd8b8a5" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:08:19.190" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 38 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build a workstation with an Intel Core i7 CPU that comes with Iris Pro graphics. From Intel Ark page, the following Core CPUs are shipped with Iris Pro 580:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6785R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6685R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6585R&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6970HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6870HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i7-6770HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Intel® Core™ i5-6350HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've not been able to find a motherboard from any of the major vendors (ASUS/Asrock/Gigabyte ...) that supports these processors. Could someone recommend one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="cf1dce1a-9277-48ea-adc3-8a01f9546255" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:08:21.410" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6454" RevisionGUID="31a931de-37cc-4f4d-828e-ae9ada128912" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:24:08.223" UserId="4523" Text="The CPU's you have listed seem to be mainly Notebook CPU's,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though the i7-6970HQ lists supported sockets as FCBGA1440, which I was able to find one board, a mini-ITX from Advantec [AIMB-242](http://www.advantech.com/products/68ccaea2-9ff5-4f85-97f2-3d11244b0a08/aimb-242/mod_ea0f33ea-8a88-4382-98bd-d281ed15f054)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="b44723c7-c3fe-4a2d-9cb0-bde148f101b4" CreationDate="2016-12-14T16:48:20.080" UserId="4827" Comment="deleted 56 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build a workstation with an Intel Core i7 CPU that comes with Iris Pro graphics. From Intel Ark page, the following Core CPUs are shipped with Iris Pro 580:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Core i7-6785R&#xD;&#xA;    Core i5-6685R&#xD;&#xA;    Core i5-6585R&#xD;&#xA;    Core i7-6970HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Core i7-6870HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Core i7-6770HQ&#xD;&#xA;    Core i5-6350HQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've not been able to find a motherboard from any of the major vendors (ASUS/Asrock/Gigabyte ...) that supports these processors. Could someone recommend one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18982" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="ece7bd15-ef20-451d-aee7-e15173cc7bbe" CreationDate="2016-12-15T00:06:57.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="18983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6456" RevisionGUID="3da85706-d01f-464c-bf98-d5c5d3811493" CreationDate="2016-12-15T01:19:11.847" UserId="3980" Text="I think your best option is **number 3**. (Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i7 6th Gen (2.4GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$&#xD;&#xA;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find specific recommended RAM capacity for xcode, but android studio recommends 8GB. Furthermore, the 6th gen i7 has a better benchmark than the other models mentioned and should suffice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;Choose Option 3 Because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB meets the hardware recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 6th Gen i7 (4700HQ I assume) has a higher benchmark than the other options. This should mean smoother performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18989" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6454" RevisionGUID="6d13035f-665e-47c1-bef9-c7841a82cd35" CreationDate="2016-12-15T05:53:18.033" UserId="4523" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18990" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6454" RevisionGUID="95d2c1e9-4d57-4b31-a4a4-48633bb7fbeb" CreationDate="2016-12-15T05:53:58.513" UserId="4523" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="18991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6454" RevisionGUID="0fe69116-a4ad-45b2-96c1-90cc0ef02aab" CreationDate="2016-12-15T05:55:44.833" UserId="4523" Comment="Edited to reflect updated information" Text="As new information came in via a comment to the previous answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xeon E3 1515M v5 has Iris™ Pro Graphics P580 and can be used on the following mini-ITX from Advantec [AIMB-242](http://www.advantech.com/products/68ccaea2-9ff5-4f85-97f2-3d11244b0a08/aimb-242/mod_ea0f33ea-8a88-4382-98bd-d281ed15f054)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="53bca6d6-d1d3-4109-98e0-33d26f436f6d" CreationDate="2016-12-15T11:37:07.307" UserId="4523" Comment="These are edits I suggest for the following reasons:  Comes across as friendlier, etc.  Also, the type of RAM used on your board is needed to determine which socket of CPU you need." Text="Current processor is:  **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is:  **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The type of RAM on my board is: (to be filled in by @JimThio)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a CPU with around twice the benchmark potential. I will be reusing the same motherboard, so matching the CPU socket is essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In searching for a CPU, I have found what seems to be conflicting information which states that the CPU is an AM2+/AM3 CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is more than one CPU available, please list them so I may choose which one I would prefer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18999" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="53bca6d6-d1d3-4109-98e0-33d26f436f6d" CreationDate="2016-12-15T11:37:07.307" UserId="4523" Comment="These are edits I suggest for the following reasons:  Comes across as friendlier, etc.  Also, the type of RAM used on your board is needed to determine which socket of CPU you need." Text="Seeking a replacement for an Athlon II X2 240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19000" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="53bca6d6-d1d3-4109-98e0-33d26f436f6d" CreationDate="2016-12-15T11:37:07.307" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 546" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19001" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="328f5de9-0cad-4c20-bae2-873e864b2ed6" CreationDate="2016-12-15T11:37:07.307" UserId="8" Comment="These are edits I suggest for the following reasons:  Comes across as friendlier, etc.  Also, the type of RAM used on your board is needed to determine which socket of CPU you need." Text="Current processor is:  **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is:  **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a CPU with around twice the benchmark potential. I will be reusing the same motherboard, so matching the CPU socket is essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In searching for a CPU, I have found what seems to be conflicting information which states that the CPU is an AM2+/AM3 CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is more than one CPU available, please list them so I may choose which one I would prefer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19005" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="23235bb5-8ced-4a80-8f48-cdfa33fb1d65" CreationDate="2016-12-15T12:02:56.103" UserId="2086" Comment="added 240 characters in body" Text="Current processor is:  **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is:  **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a CPU with around twice the benchmark potential. I will be reusing the same motherboard, so matching the CPU socket is essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In searching for a CPU, I have found what seems to be conflicting information which states that the CPU is an AM2+/AM3 CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is more than one CPU available, please list them so I may choose which one I would prefer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to Belarc the memory module is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 	6144 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM0' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB (serial number SerNum02)&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM3' has 4096 MB (serial number SerNum03)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea whether the motherboard support AM2+ or AM3 port. I have o idea whether the memory is DDR3 or DDR2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard is so old it's not produced anymore." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19006" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="69deddbe-cfad-49ec-8ba7-ac00813bffed" CreationDate="2016-12-15T12:13:42.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19010" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6462" RevisionGUID="3dea329c-7e03-4e06-b08a-a2bfb62425eb" CreationDate="2016-12-15T14:29:00.007" UserId="5183" Text="If you where to combine 4x titans how many teraflops do you get?  [just a pic](http://i.imgur.com/8SUmgTu.jpg)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6462" RevisionGUID="3dea329c-7e03-4e06-b08a-a2bfb62425eb" CreationDate="2016-12-15T14:29:00.007" UserId="5183" Text="How many gflops does 4 way sli titan x pascal have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19012" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6462" RevisionGUID="3dea329c-7e03-4e06-b08a-a2bfb62425eb" CreationDate="2016-12-15T14:29:00.007" UserId="5183" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6463" RevisionGUID="698ee997-7226-4cde-b0bd-374cc7db7d9f" CreationDate="2016-12-15T15:20:08.590" UserId="586" Text="The theoretical single-precision rating of a single Titan X Pascal is 11 TFLOPS per [the media (ArsTechnica)](http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/07/gtx-titan-x-pascal-specs-price-release-date/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you multiply 11 by 4, and assuming you have enough PCIe lanes to support all of these GPUs under full load, and assuming you have enough CPU and memory bandwidth to &quot;feed&quot; a real workload to each of these cards maxed out, that would be **44** TFLOPS single-precision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will never be able to use this kind of raw horsepower for gaming, even with an ideal workload on DirectX 12's [EMA](http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2016/02/directx-12-amd-and-nvidia-gpus-finally-work-together-but-amd-still-has-the-lead/). The only way you could hope to utilize it all would be with a very high-end CPU (or perhaps multiple Xeon E5 CPUs), high clock rate DDR4 for system memory, and using OpenCL or CUDA on embarrassingly parallel single-precision workloads." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6464" RevisionGUID="c6dd03cd-bb50-4006-ac87-2ae12f72ac71" CreationDate="2016-12-15T16:27:33.273" UserId="586" Text="I'm looking for wireless headphones with the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Most importantly:** Can capture audio via the microphone at the same time as playing **high-quality stereo** audio out the headphones. &#xD;&#xA; - **Very important:** Imperceptibly low latency. The two wireless protocols I've seen on the market that accomplish this so far, are AptX Low Latency (with Bluetooth A2DP), and SteelSeries' proprietary protocol with the Siberia 840. I will still buy headphones from another vendor if they can get the latency down similar to these protocols (around 5 to 15 milliseconds is good).&#xD;&#xA; - **Important:** Noise cancelling headphones and mic.&#xD;&#xA; - **Important:** On-ear or slight over-ear. The shape of the pads I'm looking for is below.&#xD;&#xA; - **Important:** The &quot;base station&quot; or &quot;transmitter&quot; should interface with the computer using USB and expose a &quot;sound card&quot; device.&#xD;&#xA; - **Important:** *Shouldn't be Bluetooth*. To the best of my knowledge, Bluetooth audio devices do not, at all, support the duplex audio with stereo audio out at the same time as the mic in. If this is wrong, show me a counterexample! And no, HFP profile doesn't count, because the quality of the playback audio in the headphones is *horrifically bad* -- about 8 kHz and mono channel with horrible lossy compression.&#xD;&#xA; - **Important:** At least 10m range.&#xD;&#xA; - **Nice to have:** At least 10 hours of battery life. 8 is okay.&#xD;&#xA; - **Nice to have:** Swappable batteries.&#xD;&#xA; - **Not required at all:** Support to work with smartphones. This is for high-end audio listening and gaming with a desktop or laptop PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I'm looking for something like the [Steelseries Siberia 840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840) but with ear cups of a shape/size similar to the [BeoPlay H8](https://www.beoplay.com/products/beoplayh8).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**This** is the ideal ear cup shape/size for me, having worn them extensively over the course of a year:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it weren't for the lack of the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt;  - **Most importantly:** Can capture audio via the microphone at the same time as playing **high-quality stereo** audio out the headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;feature, the BeoPlay H8 would be my **Perfect Headset**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How close can I get to the H8's quality/shape/design/size while getting the Most Important feature?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/grfCi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfe8w.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6464" RevisionGUID="c6dd03cd-bb50-4006-ac87-2ae12f72ac71" CreationDate="2016-12-15T16:27:33.273" UserId="586" Text="On-ear wireless (non-Bluetooth) headphones with duplex high-quality audio?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19016" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6464" RevisionGUID="c6dd03cd-bb50-4006-ac87-2ae12f72ac71" CreationDate="2016-12-15T16:27:33.273" UserId="586" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="f200b50f-0db1-41f3-9d8d-a9bec33518f5" CreationDate="2016-12-15T19:42:11.910" UserId="3836" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card (Radeon HD 4870 1-Gb 256 bit GDDR5) for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go. Price between (50$-100$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modern AMD card would have a similar or better performance and work with my computer in that price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are:&#xD;&#xA;Intel Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4 Gb 1333 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: ASRock G41C-GS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: 750 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can give any additional information needed to properly answer this question.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19018" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6462" RevisionGUID="fc4f6738-5d31-48f9-ac84-19e8e7c269a6" CreationDate="2016-12-15T19:55:57.473" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19021" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="d1f3667b-86a9-460a-ad26-fdbfec2e71ed" CreationDate="2016-12-16T04:27:38.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19022" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6465" RevisionGUID="1abfaa82-9328-476f-81e7-21ce0fd74d17" CreationDate="2016-12-16T06:17:55.657" UserId="5185" Text="I am looking to build a ssh tunnel device that runs linux. The device is on 24/7 and will act mainly as a tunnel for me to ssh into my intranet at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This device needs to have the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Compatible with linux&#xD;&#xA; 2. Wifi card included&#xD;&#xA; 3. Able to run 24/7 without overheating&#xD;&#xA; 4. Costing under 200 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of Raspberry Pi but I am also open to suggestions. What would you guys recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6465" RevisionGUID="1abfaa82-9328-476f-81e7-21ce0fd74d17" CreationDate="2016-12-16T06:17:55.657" UserId="5185" Text="What is an affordable cheap Linux box you could recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19024" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6465" RevisionGUID="1abfaa82-9328-476f-81e7-21ce0fd74d17" CreationDate="2016-12-16T06:17:55.657" UserId="5185" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6466" RevisionGUID="9dd2cd9c-c734-40d5-acc5-149387cb3946" CreationDate="2016-12-16T07:37:21.800" UserId="5001" Text="Looking at your requirements you could attain the best of a couple worlds by going with laptop that runs Windows 10.  The latest updates to Windows 10 offer an Ubuntu Bash Shell&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reference 1](http://www.howtogeek.com/249966/how-to-install-and-use-the-linux-bash-shell-on-windows-10/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reference 2](https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/commandline/wsl/install_guide)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This opens the doors to a lot of possibilities for you as far as laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Book](https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200&amp;VID=5072761400?icid=Surface_CAT_ModD2_Book400_121316) has received a lot of rave [Reviews](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1893015036065696036/reviews?q=surface+book+reviews&amp;stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAA2NMQ5DMQxC1U5Vx6STTwGO7eCb_uPWLKAnBJ_v2lQfMHEKldU1wVYf4rRcxeobJ2C7yIzyVGVkEbiyH72bUSA0G_DpypYw7kO9XcqR7WnoUBgSmC9Ktr3o6NDF7dbs0p_36w9TZcyMlwAAAA&amp;npsic=0&amp;biw=1920&amp;bih=950&amp;bav=on.2,or.&amp;bvm=bv.142059868,d.eWE&amp;tch=1&amp;ech=1&amp;psi=CZhTWMzJHsPnmAHgjpiABg.1481873417703.3&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi78b3imPjQAhVM4yYKHffjDzQQvCQIswE). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lenovo you specified seems to have some very mixed [Reviews](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5095514180322563270/reviews?q=Lenovo+ThinkPad+X1+Carbon.&amp;oq=Lenovo+ThinkPad+X1+Carbon.&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3614j0j4&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjuo6z5mPjQAhVN5WMKHQ7lDEQQvCQIhAE).  My personal experience with Lenovo (I have 2) is that they work great and start to fail around year 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally the processor speed that you specified is not available in an I7 Mobile processor. [Reference Intel](https://www-ssl.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/core-i7-processor.html)  The only way you wound be able to get that would be to move to a &quot;mobile workstation&quot;.  This will increase the bulk and reduce the battery life of the laptop since it will require a desktop processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2359" RevisionGUID="29f374eb-b86a-4dbc-ab4c-c33774e7926f" CreationDate="2016-12-16T08:32:45.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6467" RevisionGUID="5349941f-e6ea-4680-8f6e-17ba35904bd2" CreationDate="2016-12-16T12:08:05.320" UserId="5073" Text="At first, I would recommend you to rethink your Monitor Setup, UHD uses twice as many Pixel in heigh than HD, which means that if you move objects from one screen to another or just look from one to another, you will get serious headaches. I have this problem with a 1920x1200 main Monitor and a 1280x720 second Monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side, gaming or not, your Setup will have a total resolution of 3840x3420. That means you will need something in the area of a GTX 1070 or similar. This also means that you will have a good change to find one with 3 Display Ports, which I also would recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8b669962-16a1-4050-8ee7-ad963adc83e1" CreationDate="2016-12-16T12:11:37.167" UserId="5120" Comment="edited title" Text="Outdoor Webcam for low temperatures and fog" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6468" RevisionGUID="cd303cd0-b013-4556-a2de-2f11211a35e9" CreationDate="2016-12-16T13:36:29.913" UserId="1641" Text="I would recomend the [UDOO Family][1] or the [Odroid Family][2] (Both came with their own Ubuntu flavor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2. Wifi card included &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3. Able to run 24/7 without overheating&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this works 24/7 you could damage the Wifi card; as you need for WiFi, you could instead buy an USB Wifi Module like [this][3] or [this][4]. The main attraction of the Pi 3 are the Wi-fi and Bluetooth, but in this case maybe is more important to invest in RAM, a best processor and heatsink.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your budget an excellent investment would be the **Odroid XU4**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Samsung Exynos5422 Cortex™-A15 2Ghz and Cortex™-A7 Octa core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPUs: Mali-T628 MP6(OpenGL ES 3.0/2.0/1.1 and OpenCL 1.1 Full profile)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2Gbyte LPDDR3 RAM PoP stacked&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB: 2xUSB 3.0 Host, 1 x USB 2.0 Host&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ethernet: Gigabit Ethernet port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size: 82 x 58 x 22 mm approx.(including cooling fan) **&lt;--- This is a BIG plus.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.udoo.org&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/main.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G137447734369&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G145431421052" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="dda98b73-6b3a-4ff0-bb55-f93560988385" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:34:19.990" UserId="5001" Comment="Better and more descriptive title that fits the format of HWREC SE better" Text="Universal Laptop Power Supply (Multiple Output Plugs) Daily Use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6447" RevisionGUID="dda98b73-6b3a-4ff0-bb55-f93560988385" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:34:19.990" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 203, 155 edit id of 548" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="6a4f12d1-23a4-49d3-ab05-cb662309a7c4" CreationDate="2016-12-16T14:34:56.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19036" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6431" RevisionGUID="2705d76f-21a8-4001-8fad-2675da1915e6" CreationDate="2016-12-16T17:19:47.553" UserId="4689" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6470" RevisionGUID="b0b01b9d-f86f-46a3-8a13-d39ee86b4732" CreationDate="2016-12-16T19:49:27.040" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest a [Parallella](https://www.parallella.org/) board.&#xD;&#xA;As mentioned above in regards to running wifi 24/7 and possible damage, you can always run an inexpensive Atheros based USB wifi dongle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As stated on Parallella's page:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18-core credit card sized computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• #1 in energy efficiency @ 5W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• 16-core Epiphany RISC SOC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Zynq SOC (FPGA + ARM A9)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• 1GB SDRAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Micro-SD storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Up to 48 GPIO pins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• HDMI, USB (optional)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Open source design files&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Runs Linux&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• &gt;10,000 boards shipped&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;• Starting at $99" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19046" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6466" RevisionGUID="f228482d-ed4c-4ef4-b34b-8cf824450c0a" CreationDate="2016-12-16T23:15:29.390" UserId="5001" Comment="Updated on information for full linux support" Text="Looking at your requirements you could attain the best of a couple worlds by going with laptop that runs Windows 10.  The latest updates to Windows 10 offer an Ubuntu Bash Shell&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reference 1](http://www.howtogeek.com/249966/how-to-install-and-use-the-linux-bash-shell-on-windows-10/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reference 2](https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/commandline/wsl/install_guide)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This opens the doors to a lot of possibilities for you as far as laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Book](https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200&amp;VID=5072761400?icid=Surface_CAT_ModD2_Book400_121316) has received a lot of rave [Reviews](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1893015036065696036/reviews?q=surface+book+reviews&amp;stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAA2NMQ5DMQxC1U5Vx6STTwGO7eCb_uPWLKAnBJ_v2lQfMHEKldU1wVYf4rRcxeobJ2C7yIzyVGVkEbiyH72bUSA0G_DpypYw7kO9XcqR7WnoUBgSmC9Ktr3o6NDF7dbs0p_36w9TZcyMlwAAAA&amp;npsic=0&amp;biw=1920&amp;bih=950&amp;bav=on.2,or.&amp;bvm=bv.142059868,d.eWE&amp;tch=1&amp;ech=1&amp;psi=CZhTWMzJHsPnmAHgjpiABg.1481873417703.3&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi78b3imPjQAhVM4yYKHffjDzQQvCQIswE). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lenovo you specified seems to have some very mixed [Reviews](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5095514180322563270/reviews?q=Lenovo+ThinkPad+X1+Carbon.&amp;oq=Lenovo+ThinkPad+X1+Carbon.&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3614j0j4&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjuo6z5mPjQAhVN5WMKHQ7lDEQQvCQIhAE).  My personal experience with Lenovo (I have 2) is that they work great and start to fail around year 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally the processor speed that you specified is not available in an I7 Mobile processor. [Reference Intel](https://www-ssl.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/core-i7-processor.html)  The only way you wound be able to get that would be to move to a &quot;mobile workstation&quot;.  This will increase the bulk and reduce the battery life of the laptop since it will require a desktop processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Info:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need a more &quot;fully functional&quot; Ubuntu interface you can easily use the Hyper V option in Windows 10 Pro and have a fully fuctional version of Ubuntu. [Instructions](http://www.howtogeek.com/196158/how-to-create-and-run-virtual-machines-with-hyper-v/) For Windows 8 but it will be almost the same for Windows 10." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="d2d6a852-ebb8-4e85-ba01-01ac05f52e53" CreationDate="2016-12-17T00:17:14.623" UserId="4523" Comment="I have edited the title to be in the form of a question, instead of URL text" Text="Why is there such a price difference between two seemingly identical drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19048" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6451" RevisionGUID="d2d6a852-ebb8-4e85-ba01-01ac05f52e53" CreationDate="2016-12-17T00:17:14.623" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 54, 203 edit id of 549" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19049" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6472" RevisionGUID="069b4173-8309-45b8-9c93-c4ab0faf62f8" CreationDate="2016-12-17T00:43:36.060" UserId="3980" Text="Personally, I would just go with a raspberry pi, more specifically, the [RPi 3 Model B][1] Along with a USB wifi dongle such as [this][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost totals out to about **$49 USD** ($40 for the RPi and $9 for the wifi dongle).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*RPi's are capable of running 24/7, as mentioned [here][3].*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main reasons why I would prefer a RPi are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is cheaper, compared to the other options provided.&#xD;&#xA; - The support communities are much larger and documentation is widely available. &#xD;&#xA; - It is capable of being used for SSH.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481934690&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rpi%202&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Raspberry-Wifi-Dongle-Adapter/dp/B00FWMEFES/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481934981&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rpi%20wifi&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;t=60362&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19050" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6467" RevisionGUID="2c55f5fc-4d69-40c9-8b45-d58e1e21f4f4" CreationDate="2016-12-17T00:55:02.963" UserId="5073" Comment="added 667 characters in body" Text="At first, I would recommend you to rethink your Monitor Setup, UHD uses twice as many Pixel in heigh than HD, which means that if you move objects from one screen to another or just look from one to another, you will get serious headaches. I have this problem with a 1920x1200 main Monitor and a 1280x720 second Monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side, gaming or not, your Setup will have a total resolution of 3840x3420. That means you will need something in the area of a GTX 1070 or similar. This also means that you will have a good change to find one with 3 Display Ports, which I also would recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Here a link to a list of cards that have 3 Display Ports and should do the job, if you want to go save take 1070 if you want to try for a bargain get 1060, also I never recommend ATIs because I had some bad experiences with those.&#xD;&#xA;Also, this is a shop link, because in this shop you can easily compare and look what else in on the market. You can select one and get them from somewhere else.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.alternate.de/Hardware-Komponenten-Grafikkarten-PCIe-Karten-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-Gaming/html/listings/1346?lk=8406&amp;sort=PRICE&amp;order=ASC&amp;showFilter=false&amp;filter_2203=NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1070&amp;filter_2203=NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1060&amp;filter_2249=3.0#listingResult&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19054" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6474" RevisionGUID="6919db95-6569-4b10-8dd0-5da49c48ff24" CreationDate="2016-12-17T01:37:10.727" UserId="203" Text="Assuming you'd prioritise raw performance over portability and battery life, I'd recommend the &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[Dell Precision 15 7150][1] ($2,235)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a workstation laptop configurable to have a 512 GB NVMe SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU is an [Intel Xeon E3-1505M v5][2], a quad core, hyperthreaded CPU, with base clock of 2.8 GHz and turbo up to 3.7 GHz (4 core turbo would be 3.5 GHz), it is one of the most powerful mobile CPUs currently on the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you plan on heavily utilising the Intel graphics, or a large L4 cache appeals to you, then you can upgrade to the [E3-1545M v5][3], with GT4e graphics, and the associated 128 MB of eDRAM on die.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the default configuration, the laptop comes with Windows 10 Pro preinstalled, but you could choose to forgo that. With Ubuntu preinstalled, you save the licence price of $94. Note though, that they install Ubuntu 14.04 LTS, not the latest 16.04 LTS or 16.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop also comes with a [Quadro M2000M][4]. While a Quadro specifically isn't necessary, its 640 CUDA cores and 4 GB of VRAM make it well suited for accelerating TensorFlow using cuDNN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM starts at 32 GB and is upgradable up to 64 GB. Upgrading to ECC RAM is also an option. Note that laptop OEMs tend to overcharge for RAM upgrades, so you might be better off purchasing your own, if you wanted more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display is a fairly mediocre 1080p one. You might choose to upgrade to 4K, or a wider gamut panel, add a camera or remove the microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also like to upgrade to a backlit keyboard ($33), a higher capacity battery, add a second hard drive and/or add a RAID card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarise: The Dell Precision is a highly customisable and powerful mobile workstation. It should take care of anything you throw at it with speed, and it also supports Ubuntu (optionally preinstalled).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m7510-workstation/pd?3x_nav=HD_CAPACITY_GB%3D512&amp;3x_page=1&amp;filterCollapsed=true&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/89608/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1505M-v5-8M-Cache-2_80-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/93359/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1545M-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-Quadro-M2000M.151581.0.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6475" RevisionGUID="99ee8239-8bd6-4e1d-af65-0b0d51874abf" CreationDate="2016-12-17T02:24:00.440" UserId="4523" Text="If budget is no issue, and power both in CPU and GPU are desired, you can always go with: [MSI 18.4&quot; GT83VR TITAN SLI-024](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154276&amp;cm_re=GT83-_-34-154-276-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USD $4,698.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: This *thing* is a beast, in size as well as specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The way they have storage set up is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;Super RAID 4 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4) [512 GB x 2] + 1 TB SATA 7200 RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(DUAL)GeForce GTX 1080 8GB SLI (VR Ready)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i7 6920HQ (2.90 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18.4&quot; Full HD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16.85&quot; x 12.36&quot; x 1.66&quot;-2.52&quot; 13.13 lbs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a (lowly) MSI GL62-6QF-628, which runs Ubuntu quite well, after selecting the closed source Nvidia drivers, as well as the Intel microcode options under additional drivers via the update utility thing (that for the life of me I cannot remember the name of.......the sprocket icon lol)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6475" RevisionGUID="bbecea72-aa22-4e5c-9da7-c8cebfb500ad" CreationDate="2016-12-17T02:54:07.993" UserId="4523" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="If budget is no issue, and power both in CPU and GPU are desired, you can always go with: [MSI 18.4&quot; GT83VR TITAN SLI-024](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154276&amp;cm_re=GT83-_-34-154-276-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USD $4,698.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: This *thing* is a beast, in size as well as specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The way they have storage set up is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;Super RAID 4 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4) [512 GB x 2] + 1 TB SATA 7200 RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;(Super RAID 4 denotes MSI software to configure raid without getting into BIOS, other than that, the drives are set in a RAID 0 config)&#xD;&#xA;(DUAL)GeForce GTX 1080 8GB SLI (VR Ready)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i7 6920HQ (2.90 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18.4&quot; Full HD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16.85&quot; x 12.36&quot; x 1.66&quot;-2.52&quot; 13.13 lbs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a (lowly) MSI GL62-6QF-628, which runs Ubuntu quite well, after selecting the closed source Nvidia drivers, as well as the Intel microcode options under additional drivers via the update utility thing (that for the life of me I cannot remember the name of.......the sprocket icon lol)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6475" RevisionGUID="a7c98ab2-6a17-41b2-9b97-4ee21cdaa297" CreationDate="2016-12-17T02:59:20.993" UserId="4523" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="If budget is no issue, and power both in CPU and GPU are desired, you can always go with: [MSI 18.4&quot; GT83VR TITAN SLI-024](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154276&amp;cm_re=GT83-_-34-154-276-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USD $4,698.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: This *thing* is a beast, in size as well as specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The way they have storage set up is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Super RAID 4™ 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4) [512 GB x 2] + 1 TB SATA 7200 RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;(Super RAID 4 denotes MSI software to configure raid without getting into BIOS, other than that, the drives are set in a RAID 0 config)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(DUAL)GeForce GTX 1080 8GB SLI (VR Ready)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i7 6920HQ (2.90 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 1 TB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18.4&quot; Full HD 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16.85&quot; x 12.36&quot; x 1.66&quot;-2.52&quot; 13.13 lbs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm running a (lowly) MSI GL62-6QF-628, which runs Ubuntu quite well, after selecting the closed source Nvidia drivers, as well as the Intel microcode options under additional drivers via the update utility thing (that for the life of me I cannot remember the name of.......the sprocket icon lol)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6476" RevisionGUID="39f9520d-ea44-4ec9-a60b-692c7a19c50a" CreationDate="2016-12-17T06:36:47.923" UserId="531" Text="I'd totally go with x86 over ARM. And If you aren't that picky you can spec out what Jeff Atwood calls a scooter computer - these seem to be [systems with 'laptop' class internals][1], often of older models, designed for digital signage. They're cheap, and actually pretty well built compared to some random ARM SBC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A minimal speced varient of [this][2] should work - I run a NUC class machine with a similar processor without the big aluminium/industrial case and it hardly even runs warm. Looks like 2gb/32gb would run you 150USD + shipping, Which should be under your budget. Ars technica uses another model as a [router][3] and they haven't had heating issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, ARM processors don't have the same level of support, and often have janky wifi.This has proper antenna ports and mini PCIe so, its a much better/flexible bet &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-scooter-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QOTOM-projector-computer-hardware-mini-pc-Q305p-desktop-computer-for-bulk/108231_32767188260.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/01/numbers-dont-lie-its-time-to-build-your-own-router/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6477" RevisionGUID="144bdafc-cd7d-445b-b32b-a1d91a0382d5" CreationDate="2016-12-17T17:59:04.010" UserId="5194" Text="Okay, so I have an on-board sound card that I really like. I also have a high quality stereo Bluetooth headset with a built-in microphone that I really like. Now I want them to play together. And also, I want to stop fighting my Bluetooth drivers to get HSP and A2DP to work at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* On the front of my computer are two 3.5mm sockets. A green one for audio output, a red one for microphone input. I want a dongle that would be able to connect to BOTH at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The dongle should be able to pair with my headset, sending audio, and receiving microphone input. Obviously, the headset can't pair with two dongles at once, so it has to be a single dongle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Audio output should be high quality A2DP. This should not conflict with HSP/HFP for the microphone audio. It shouldn't be either/or, but work simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Should work while charging. I have a free USB port I can use, but obviously, I don't want to have to switch between plugging it in or out constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I sometimes watch videos, so lag under 200ms for audio would be needed. I know some systems have &gt;500ms lag, so that's a big no.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Optional: If possible, I'd like it to have Bluetooth 4 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around, but all I could find was either transmitters or receivers for A2DP with no support for a headset microphone. Some could even do both, but not at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything you could recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6477" RevisionGUID="144bdafc-cd7d-445b-b32b-a1d91a0382d5" CreationDate="2016-12-17T17:59:04.010" UserId="5194" Text="3.5mm to Bluetooth converter with support for both audio and microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19063" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6477" RevisionGUID="144bdafc-cd7d-445b-b32b-a1d91a0382d5" CreationDate="2016-12-17T17:59:04.010" UserId="5194" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="f98a92f5-964b-4f02-9771-97838e041ee9" CreationDate="2016-12-17T22:59:21.657" UserId="40" Comment="added 354 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a hands-free [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) for speech recognition. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 and 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. What are other good options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want the microphone to be fixed on a stand in front of me, like this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 and 200's snap-on head-strap option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/uBiEW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/APWrK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ElQq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wi4HQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="2d1269da-d593-4fae-8d69-c57c75bdf44b" CreationDate="2016-12-18T14:02:41.947" UserId="4827" Comment="47" />
  <row Id="19074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6480" RevisionGUID="b15be1ac-3d85-4c06-bb4d-0cc9461d6852" CreationDate="2016-12-18T18:08:07.907" UserId="1111" Text="Vilros makes pre-assembled kits for Beaglebones and Pis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Beaglebone Black Starter Kit](https://www.amazon.com/Beagleboard-Beaglebone-Starter-Case-Power-Supply-Micro/dp/B00P6TV9V4) - Comes with pre-configured SD card, cables, and a case. No setup necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- [Raspberry Pi 3 Starter Kit](http://www.vilros.com/raspberry-pi-3-complete-starter-kit-clear-case-edition.html) - Comes with pre-configured SD card, working wifi and bluetooth, cables and a case. No setup necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I'd go for the Beaglebone, they're a bit beefier than the Pi. On the other hand the Pi has a very large support community.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Vilros kits are great, you don't have to mess with anything, really, just turn them on out-of-the-box and you're ready to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you could just buy a used, cheap laptop and throw Ubuntu on it. Even [new ones are close to your price range](http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2371334,00.asp)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19075" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="a910403b-f5ff-4304-a77b-a1c2db32d46e" CreationDate="2016-12-18T21:33:38.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19077" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="b588b73d-043d-43e2-9e2a-20fb14b3fa7e" CreationDate="2016-12-19T02:33:45.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19083" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="1520ac03-86bd-4dd7-b40e-ee4017471bf3" CreationDate="2016-12-19T11:58:10.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6483" RevisionGUID="8502e4f3-1884-42da-968e-9104fb547c08" CreationDate="2016-12-19T17:45:00.253" UserId="273" Text="I'm currently during the week at one place (A) and during the weekend at another (B) and have to take my soundcard with me so I can use my surround system + headset at place A and my headset at place B. Now I've decided to look into getting a secondary sound card / audio interface for place B and am asking for recommendations here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mandatory requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least one 6.3mm / 3.5mm audio jack input&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least one 6.3mm / 3.5mm audio jack headphone output&#xD;&#xA; - Must use USB for power-supply and data connection to the computer&#xD;&#xA; - Must suppport Windows (10)&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature decent quality of the involved audio components&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to feed 80 Ohm headphones&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least 48kHz / 16 bit sampling&#xD;&#xA; - Must stay below 100€ in price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - May feature excellent quality of the involved audio components&#xD;&#xA; - Should feature a 192kHz / 24 bit sampling rate&#xD;&#xA; - Should be as cheap as possible, but may trade better quality / sampling rates against a higher price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6483" RevisionGUID="8502e4f3-1884-42da-968e-9104fb547c08" CreationDate="2016-12-19T17:45:00.253" UserId="273" Text="Decent, simple audio interface / external soundcard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19090" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6483" RevisionGUID="8502e4f3-1884-42da-968e-9104fb547c08" CreationDate="2016-12-19T17:45:00.253" UserId="273" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6483" RevisionGUID="4ae2e259-c88d-4278-b403-675f358bb063" CreationDate="2016-12-19T18:15:05.840" UserId="273" Comment="clarified price" Text="I'm currently during the week at one place (A) and during the weekend at another (B) and have to take my soundcard with me so I can use my surround system + headset at place A and my headset at place B. Now I've decided to look into getting a secondary sound card / audio interface for place B and am asking for recommendations here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mandatory requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least one 6.3mm / 3.5mm audio jack input&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least one 6.3mm / 3.5mm audio jack headphone output&#xD;&#xA; - Must use USB for power-supply and data connection to the computer&#xD;&#xA; - Must suppport Windows (10)&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature decent quality of the involved audio components&#xD;&#xA; - Must be able to feed 80 Ohm headphones&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature at least 48kHz / 16 bit sampling&#xD;&#xA; - Must stay below 100€ in price, there's no problem at all if the price is around 50€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - May feature excellent quality of the involved audio components&#xD;&#xA; - Should feature a 192kHz / 24 bit sampling rate&#xD;&#xA; - Should be as cheap as possible, but may trade better quality / sampling rates against a higher price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="4b2bd024-baeb-4966-ade4-574afa7fb5c4" CreationDate="2016-12-19T23:34:36.853" UserId="5206" Text="Due to budget constraints I constantly find myself a minimum of 5 to 10 years behind &quot;current&quot; technology, when it comes to my PC hardware and operating systems. Its not just budget... when things work well I don't jump on every new bandwagon. I do, however, make it a point to learn exactly what hardware is required to accomplish a given set of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem, as we all know, is that really matching system information to a given task is often a game. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that I CAN'T accomplish things I regularly do easilly with one of my systems. Then, just as often I'm advised to obtain minimum hardware to accomplish various tasks, when in truth the hardware recommended is WAY over qualified, and equally over priced for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So its with that background that I want to know what critical specs and hardware (CPU type, clock speed, FSB speeds, number of cores, OS, Video card) I will need to accomplish one simple thing: Be able to live stream videos, play DVDs, and play various downloaded video/movie files, while driving my TV to its full 1920 x 1080 resolution, and at a reasonable frame rate ( which I assume should be at least 30fps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I probably will want a windows box, if only because I've been intimately acquainted with most MS OS's for many years. I'm also looking for used equipment, because I doubt these tasks really require the latest, greatest machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I hinted, I'm hearing a lot of what I believe to be &quot;off the cuff&quot; bad advise, telling me that I need to purchase a new &quot;state of the art&quot; machine, with some liquid nitrogen cooled 6 processor video card. But considering how cheap 1080dpi 60 and 120fps TVs are getting, I have to believe this is mostly hype. Granted, 1920 x 1080 at 30fps does sound like a lot of processing to me too. But considering my ancient last century Dell Lattitude D600 actually has a 1920 x 1080 video setting (of course it can't manage more than a few fps), something tells me I could still manage with a cheap used tower system and a $50 video card, as long as I know what minimum requirements to look for. For all I know, typical MOBO video hardware may already have long ago exceeded the capabilities I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I definitely need help separating &quot;hyped up&quot; system requirements from actual critical needs. Note that this is the ONLY major task this PC will be used for. It will likely be stashed behind the TV with a remote keyboard for access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any and all advise" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="4b2bd024-baeb-4966-ade4-574afa7fb5c4" CreationDate="2016-12-19T23:34:36.853" UserId="5206" Text="minimum cost hardware to reproduce 1080i at 30 fps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="4b2bd024-baeb-4966-ade4-574afa7fb5c4" CreationDate="2016-12-19T23:34:36.853" UserId="5206" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="42b0263e-902a-4449-a9b3-9f5aae0312d5" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:09:56.690" UserId="5207" Text="I'm looking for headphones (earplugs), that won't damage it's wire in a month of usage. I am a bit desperate to find something that suits all my criteria's, so I thought I could receive some recommendations here. All the plugs I've tried so far lived very little and their wire got damaged. I think I might be just too aggressive with it. I'm thinking headphones with textile wire could do the trick, but I'm not really sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also consider other headphones types, but prefer earplugs. &#xD;&#xA;They also should meet several requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Designed for street usage (namely listening music from my phone on the street)&#xD;&#xA;* Should have a headset (mic), so I could answer calls&#xD;&#xA;* Should not be wireless (I know wireless is a solution to a problem, but I don't want to charge them constantly)&#xD;&#xA;* Should be compact&#xD;&#xA;* I'm in EU, so I should be able to find them here. Although I'm open for ordering from US if they are too good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also prefer not to go to the premium priced options. I'd expect the maximum price to be 150$ - maybe 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="42b0263e-902a-4449-a9b3-9f5aae0312d5" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:09:56.690" UserId="5207" Text="Looking for headphones earplugs that have a very lasting wire" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="42b0263e-902a-4449-a9b3-9f5aae0312d5" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:09:56.690" UserId="5207" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="1ad7cc81-dd72-469d-ad75-500520d8e003" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:14:58.240" UserId="5207" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for headphones (earplugs), that won't damage it's wire in a month of usage. I am a bit desperate to find something that suits all my criteria's, so I thought I could receive some recommendations here. All the plugs I've tried so far lived very little and their wire got damaged. I think I might be just too aggressive with it. I'm thinking headphones with textile wire could do the trick, but I'm not really sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also consider other headphones types, but prefer earplugs. &#xD;&#xA;They also should meet several requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Designed for street usage (namely listening music from my phone on the street)&#xD;&#xA;* Should have a headset (mic), so I could answer calls&#xD;&#xA;* Should not be wireless (I know wireless is a solution to a problem, but I don't want to charge them constantly)&#xD;&#xA;* Should be compact&#xD;&#xA;* I'm in EU, so I should be able to find them here. Although I'm open for ordering from US if they are too good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also prefer not to go into the premium priced options. I'd expect the maximum price to be 150$ - maybe 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19100" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="143" RevisionGUID="5ff72797-3d48-46db-880f-1f17bb69c17c" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:27:36.333" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6488" RevisionGUID="140293fc-1ba4-4053-948d-d15b0f202e2f" CreationDate="2016-12-20T09:18:07.927" UserId="5212" Text="You can't go wrong with an Orange Pi board. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Orange Pi One board costs $9 and with standard shipping, $14. It can capture and play video in 1080 @ 30fps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Orange-Pi-One-ubuntu-linux-and-android-mini-PC-Beyond-and-Compatible-with-Raspberry-Pi-2/1553371_32603308880.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.3icumZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or go with the new Orange Pi PC 2. Which has full support for 4K video. It costs about $23 with standard shipping. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-Orange-Pi-PC-2-H5-64bit-Support-the-Lubuntu-linux-and-android-mini-PC-Beyond/1553371_32761481418.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.3icumZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the first board I posted also supports 4K but I'm not sure how quickly it would playback. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19112" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6489" RevisionGUID="7a06985f-8b8b-49d5-996f-c2ed8e4ac232" CreationDate="2016-12-20T11:27:14.993" UserId="964" Text="I need a router for under, say, £50 which is capable of running dd-wrt's OpenVPN server, and still run well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a home router with 2 or 3 devices connected to it at a time, nothing fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in the UK. Tried to get an anwer out of dd-wrt forum but no luck yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19113" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6489" RevisionGUID="7a06985f-8b8b-49d5-996f-c2ed8e4ac232" CreationDate="2016-12-20T11:27:14.993" UserId="964" Text="What does a router need to run well while acting as an OpenVPN server via dd-wrt?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19114" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6489" RevisionGUID="7a06985f-8b8b-49d5-996f-c2ed8e4ac232" CreationDate="2016-12-20T11:27:14.993" UserId="964" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="e2480628-e150-4dd6-a4bb-1312294bdf34" CreationDate="2016-12-20T13:49:24.467" UserId="5206" Comment="added 120 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Due to budget constraints I constantly find myself a minimum of 5 to 10 years behind &quot;current&quot; technology, when it comes to my PC hardware and operating systems. Its not just budget... when things work well I don't jump on every new bandwagon. I do, however, make it a point to learn exactly what hardware is required to accomplish a given set of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem, as we all know, is that really matching system information to a given task is often a game. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that I CAN'T accomplish things I regularly do easilly with one of my systems. Then, just as often I'm advised to obtain minimum hardware to accomplish various tasks, when in truth the hardware recommended is WAY over qualified, and equally over priced for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So its with that background that I want to know what critical specs and hardware (CPU type, clock speed, FSB speeds, number of cores, OS, Video card) I will need to accomplish one simple thing: Be able to live stream videos, play DVDs, and play various downloaded video/movie files, while driving my TV to its full 1920 x 1080 resolution, and at a reasonable frame rate ( which I assume should be at least 30fps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I probably will want a windows box, if only because I've been intimately acquainted with most MS OS's for many years. I'm also looking for used equipment, because I doubt these tasks really require the latest, greatest machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I hinted, I'm hearing a lot of what I believe to be &quot;off the cuff&quot; bad advise, telling me that I need to purchase a new &quot;state of the art&quot; machine, with some liquid nitrogen cooled 6 processor video card. But considering how cheap 1080dpi 60 and 120fps TVs are getting, I have to believe this is mostly hype. Granted, 1920 x 1080 at 30fps does sound like a lot of processing to me too. But considering my ancient last century Dell Lattitude D600 actually has a 1920 x 1080 video setting (of course it can't manage more than a few fps), something tells me I could still manage with a cheap used tower system and a $50 video card, as long as I know what minimum requirements to look for. For all I know, typical MOBO video hardware may already have long ago exceeded the capabilities I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I definitely need help separating &quot;hyped up&quot; system requirements from actual critical needs. Note that this is the ONLY major task this PC will be used for. It will likely be stashed behind the TV with a remote keyboard for access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any and all advise&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I've edited the title here to more clearly reflect I'm primarily interested in PC hardware here. Thanks again." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="e2480628-e150-4dd6-a4bb-1312294bdf34" CreationDate="2016-12-20T13:49:24.467" UserId="5206" Comment="added 120 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="minimum cost PC hardware to reproduce 1080i at 30 fps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="e2480628-e150-4dd6-a4bb-1312294bdf34" CreationDate="2016-12-20T13:49:24.467" UserId="5206" Comment="added 120 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19120" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6491" RevisionGUID="a5e2cc3a-6fed-484c-a1d7-abbe845279cc" CreationDate="2016-12-20T15:18:24.823" UserId="5001" Text="Every processor you mentioned here is a BGA style processor.  Effectively there are no consumer motherboards that support any of these chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically these chips are going to be used in an embedded system by system a integrator since they are required to be soldered to the board.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a couple options for you but they are barebone systems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I7-6770HQ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Frys](http://www.frys.com/product/8822412?source=google&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAyuPCBRCimuayhb3qqvwBEiQAgz62kaO4WEC__WknuN2lmh3cCT2wbunNSty6ZrFPyz04geAaAiFD8P8HAQ)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[NewEgg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA0S4KZ0736&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Desktop+PC-_-9SIAA0S4KZ0736&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAyuPCBRCimuayhb3qqvwBEiQAgz62kaU20tyK05apFYtDUha-TvlFO0wJruCdtRcpymDU7BwaAq4Q8P8HAQ)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6492" RevisionGUID="f9bcc8b4-c791-41c6-a98e-50d98feee400" CreationDate="2016-12-20T17:33:05.320" UserId="5213" Text="I want to combine 1666 mhz DDR3 4 gb ram with a 1666 mhz DDR3 8 gb ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there might be problem about it by motherboard and can they work good together?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a performance upgrade like %20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your answers.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19122" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6492" RevisionGUID="f9bcc8b4-c791-41c6-a98e-50d98feee400" CreationDate="2016-12-20T17:33:05.320" UserId="5213" Text="Can 2 different model rams can run well together?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19123" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6492" RevisionGUID="f9bcc8b4-c791-41c6-a98e-50d98feee400" CreationDate="2016-12-20T17:33:05.320" UserId="5213" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6489" RevisionGUID="572fe1e0-cef2-43f1-956f-4eb9534aa545" CreationDate="2016-12-20T18:24:03.100" UserId="964" Comment="edited title" Text="What specifications does a router need to run well while acting as an OpenVPN server via dd-wrt?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6493" RevisionGUID="4ef7d2e8-ae98-414d-8674-3517c63d6a7b" CreationDate="2016-12-20T23:37:35.973" UserId="5216" Text="Generally, yes and without issue. However it will depend on the memory controller (Modern systems have moved this onto the CPU itself).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In almost all cases on modern systems you will see the RAM down-clock itself to match the lowest denominator of the chips, this might lower the FSB and the timings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If one of the chips runs at an odd voltage however, I would not advise mixing them as the system likely won't finish POST.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, if you have two banks for memory (1+2 &amp; 3+4) generally the mismatched pair should sit on different banks. Refer to your motherboards manual for confirmation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the performance upgrade of 20%, we can't say without knowing what your utilization looks like and if RAM is the bottle neck. 4GB is a good minimum for just about any computer, doubling to 8GB+ will almost certainly provide a noticeably gain for most applications." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6492" RevisionGUID="9f848749-fed1-43fb-ab56-e196b9e2fe5b" CreationDate="2016-12-21T01:38:30.787" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19128" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="a11c0763-895f-4f92-9fc2-8cb29ec3c61c" CreationDate="2016-12-21T01:42:08.247" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 153 characters in body" Text="Due to budget constraints I constantly find myself a minimum of 5 to 10 years behind &quot;current&quot; technology, when it comes to my PC hardware and operating systems. Its not just budget... when things work well I don't jump on every new bandwagon. I do, however, make it a point to learn exactly what hardware is required to accomplish a given set of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem, as we all know, is that really matching system information to a given task is often a game. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that I CAN'T accomplish things I regularly do easilly with one of my systems. Then, just as often I'm advised to obtain minimum hardware to accomplish various tasks, when in truth the hardware recommended is WAY over qualified, and equally over priced for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So its with that background that I want to know what critical specs and hardware (CPU type, clock speed, FSB speeds, number of cores, OS, Video card) I will need to accomplish one simple thing: Be able to live stream videos, play DVDs, and play various downloaded video/movie files, while driving my TV to its full 1920 x 1080 resolution, and at a reasonable frame rate ( which I assume should be at least 30fps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I probably will want a windows box, if only because I've been intimately acquainted with most MS OS's for many years. I'm also looking for used equipment, because I doubt these tasks really require the latest, greatest machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I hinted, I'm hearing a lot of what I believe to be &quot;off the cuff&quot; bad advise, telling me that I need to purchase a new &quot;state of the art&quot; machine, with some liquid nitrogen cooled 6 processor video card. But considering how cheap 1080dpi 60 and 120fps TVs are getting, I have to believe this is mostly hype. Granted, 1920 x 1080 at 30fps does sound like a lot of processing to me too. But considering my ancient last century Dell Lattitude D600 actually has a 1920 x 1080 video setting (of course it can't manage more than a few fps), something tells me I could still manage with a cheap used tower system and a $50 video card, as long as I know what minimum requirements to look for. For all I know, typical MOBO video hardware may already have long ago exceeded the capabilities I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I definitely need help separating &quot;hyped up&quot; system requirements from actual critical needs. Note that this is the ONLY major task this PC will be used for. It will likely be stashed behind the TV with a remote keyboard for access." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="e5d4ee5d-bd3d-4dab-9f02-5058555d9a85" CreationDate="2016-12-21T03:01:43.403" UserId="5216" Comment="Disambiguated ear-objects for clarity. Headphones go over the ear, earbuds are for audio IN the ears and earplugs block external noises..." Text="I'm looking for earbuds, that won't damage it's wire in a month of usage. I am a bit desperate to find something that suits all my criteria's, so I thought I could receive some recommendations here. All the plugs I've tried so far lived very little and their wire got damaged. I think I might be just too aggressive with it. I'm thinking earbudswith textile wire could do the trick, but I'm not really sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also consider other headphone types, but prefer earbuds. &#xD;&#xA;They also should meet several requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Designed for street usage (namely listening music from my phone on the street)&#xD;&#xA;* Should have a headset (mic), so I could answer calls&#xD;&#xA;* Should not be wireless (I know wireless is a solution to a problem, but I don't want to charge them constantly)&#xD;&#xA;* Should be compact&#xD;&#xA;* I'm in EU, so I should be able to find them here. Although I'm open for ordering from US if they are too good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also prefer not to go into the premium priced options. I'd expect the maximum price to be 150$ - maybe 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="e5d4ee5d-bd3d-4dab-9f02-5058555d9a85" CreationDate="2016-12-21T03:01:43.403" UserId="5216" Comment="Disambiguated ear-objects for clarity. Headphones go over the ear, earbuds are for audio IN the ears and earplugs block external noises..." Text="Looking for headphones earbuds that have a very lasting wire" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="e5d4ee5d-bd3d-4dab-9f02-5058555d9a85" CreationDate="2016-12-21T03:01:43.403" Comment="Proposed by 5216 approved by -1 edit id of 550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="733a9089-e93a-4f13-89ba-52c4d7633b7f" CreationDate="2016-12-21T03:01:43.403" UserId="203" Comment="Grammar and word (headphone vs earbud) disambiguation" Text="I'm looking for earbuds with durable wires that in a month of usage. I am a bit desperate to find something that fits all my criteria, so I thought I could receive some recommendations here. All the plugs I've tried so far didn't last very long before the wire got damaged. I think I might be just too aggressive with it. I'm thinking earbuds with textile wire could do the trick, but I'm not really sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also consider other headphone types, but prefer earbuds. &#xD;&#xA;They also should meet several requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Designed for street usage (namely listening music from my phone on the street)&#xD;&#xA;* Should have a headset (mic), so I could answer calls&#xD;&#xA;* Should not be wireless (I know wireless is a solution to a problem, but I don't want to charge them constantly)&#xD;&#xA;* Should be compact&#xD;&#xA;* I'm in EU, so I should be able to find them here. Although I'm open for ordering from US if they are very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also prefer not to go into the premium options. I'd expect the maximum price to be 150$ - maybe 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="733a9089-e93a-4f13-89ba-52c4d7633b7f" CreationDate="2016-12-21T03:01:43.403" UserId="203" Comment="Grammar and word (headphone vs earbud) disambiguation" Text="Looking for in-ear headphones that have a very durable wire" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6485" RevisionGUID="ff7f18af-3feb-4054-8821-3d594e6c1228" CreationDate="2016-12-21T08:54:18.940" UserId="5207" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for earbuds with durable wires that will last more than a month. I am a bit desperate to find something that fits all my criteria, so I thought I could receive some recommendations here. All the plugs I've tried so far didn't last very long before the wire got damaged. I think I might be just too aggressive with it. I'm thinking earbuds with textile wire could do the trick, but I'm not really sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also consider other headphone types, but prefer earbuds. &#xD;&#xA;They also should meet several requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Designed for street usage (namely listening music from my phone on the street)&#xD;&#xA;* Should have a headset (mic), so I could answer calls&#xD;&#xA;* Should not be wireless (I know wireless is a solution to a problem, but I don't want to charge them constantly)&#xD;&#xA;* Should be compact&#xD;&#xA;* I'm in EU, so I should be able to find them here. Although I'm open for ordering from US if they are very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also prefer not to go into the premium options. I'd expect the maximum price to be 150$ - maybe 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6497" RevisionGUID="b88ffece-02dd-4037-8cd4-dd1f04ff3083" CreationDate="2016-12-21T15:49:39.170" UserId="4412" Text="The focusrite 2i2 has what you need. Here is a link that has the full specs: &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;http://www.adorama.com/frsc2i2usb.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA7ejCBRDlp8uF6ezPnjoSJAAPED7MHtXexM6vqmXUx4mDSLmBXI6ZzZlYhPaYXwKV7q51RxoCy1bw_wcB&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I regret not saving up for the 2i4, so you may want to consider that. But overall, I have been very happy with my 2i2, plus I must say, their customer service is excellent. Hope this helps!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="40bc4365-7d3d-4e1a-bcc9-db7f7b266345" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:31:36.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6498" RevisionGUID="5852befe-a41a-4581-9a8f-a0ae199029dc" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:52:16.927" UserId="5222" Text="I have a small business application that I am comparing firewalls for and I'm looking for honest reviews of their performance compared to features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm torn between the FortiGate-60D and the ZyXEL USG110. Obvious that the Fortinet is cheaper than the ZyXEL by $100, as too is the annual licensing for Fortinet. Is that a good indicator that ZyXEL has better services and features?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as throughput the ZyXEL shows specs of having better bandwidth throughput than the Fortinet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a relatively small office of 5 computers, a central file server and a netgear wireless R7000. The network is a Gigabit network but incoming internet is only 20Mbps. We do however have 3 times a day an offsite backup of server data, using rSync so not a lot of BW out but a lot of requests to run comparisons." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19155" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6498" RevisionGUID="5852befe-a41a-4581-9a8f-a0ae199029dc" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:52:16.927" UserId="5222" Text="Small Business Firewall - ZyXEL v. Fortinet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6498" RevisionGUID="5852befe-a41a-4581-9a8f-a0ae199029dc" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:52:16.927" UserId="5222" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6499" RevisionGUID="9f547047-7e82-4d49-ad10-ada3be95df04" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:30:18.897" UserId="5223" Text="For the best open tablets you will have to look at Replicant OS devices page.&#xD;&#xA;http://www.replicant.us/supported-devices.php&#xD;&#xA;These are the most open devices we have. Neither of the two tablets meet your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two compelling alternatives however. One option(this is probably the fastest and most open) would be the Thinkpad X60 Tablet running Libreboot. It has a keyboard so it is rather large. The other alternative is an SOC like the BeagleBoard Black with a touchscreen addition(only seen this on a Raspberry PI), but those are small and awkward.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;tl;dr Galaxy Tab 2 with Replicant OS(FSF endorsed), the Libreboot X60 Tablet(FSF endorsed), or the BeagleBoard Black(not sure if this would work)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="5ff8fae1-c957-43dd-b1d9-f24bf3095572" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:33:35.117" UserId="5224" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory, sensors, connectors, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="5ff8fae1-c957-43dd-b1d9-f24bf3095572" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:33:35.117" UserId="5224" Text="Is there a non-x86 processor that can be purchased by the average joe individually?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="5ff8fae1-c957-43dd-b1d9-f24bf3095572" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:33:35.117" UserId="5224" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="ae3b28be-1a8e-41b4-9a70-b78b870e2541" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:40:22.480" UserId="5224" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory, sensors, connectors, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="b7756a84-a80c-4c1e-bccd-e5aff5dc8660" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:52:01.000" UserId="5224" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory, sensors, connectors, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find it hard to believe that x86 is the only computer architecture that you can actually purchase individual components for and build a personal computer. If that is the case, that is really a shame =(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="3d6b5626-4395-4c7e-8a69-fabc12c6a1dc" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:57:10.513" UserId="5224" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory (other than parts crucial to the functioning of a modern processor such as registers and cache), sensors, connectors, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find it hard to believe that x86 is the only computer architecture that you can actually purchase individual components for and build a personal computer. If that is the case, that is really a shame =(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19164" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="bb6bf664-fea2-4587-92d8-65041d983877" CreationDate="2016-12-22T01:57:52.603" UserId="5224" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory (other than parts crucial to the functioning of a modern processor such as registers and cache), sensors, connectors (other than the socket), etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find it hard to believe that x86 is the only computer architecture that you can actually purchase individual components for and build a personal computer. If that is the case, that is really a shame =(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="7337ded4-b627-477f-a720-5f5037e2585c" CreationDate="2016-12-22T02:31:56.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6500" RevisionGUID="8193d094-d61b-480b-ba75-931fffb3c668" CreationDate="2016-12-22T02:47:54.823" UserId="5224" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="Definition of &quot;processor:&quot; A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory (other than parts crucial to the functioning of a modern processor such as registers and cache), sensors, connectors (other than the socket), etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;individually:&quot; Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a &quot;system on a chip&quot; or other similar constructs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Definition of &quot;can be purchased by the average joe:&quot; Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Companies that are included in &quot;x86:&quot; Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find it hard to believe that x86 is the only computer architecture that you can actually purchase individual components for and build a personal computer. If that is the case, that is really a shame =(&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further clarification: I am looking for a socketed CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="16a271e4-3c97-42e7-934a-216183c23e5c" CreationDate="2016-12-22T04:31:56.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6501" RevisionGUID="c6bcb24c-c0ec-402f-b6b6-73a7b1024761" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:26:15.347" UserId="241" Text="I am not aware of any non-x86 consumer-level CPUs, ie. ones where you can simply purchase and slot together all the parts for a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Various [ARM][1] CPUs can be purchased individually, and [OpenCores][2] has some CPU designs that can be loaded up on an FPGA, but these aren't end-user-friendly: they require sufficient electrical-engineering skills to design a mainboard for connecting the CPU to things like memory or a video controller, or at least the assembly skills to build someone else's design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only non-x86 CPUs I'm aware of that were ever even remotely available to consumers in &quot;build-your-own-computer&quot; form were the [DEC Alpha][5] (discontinued in 2001) and the [PowerPC][6] (you could cobble together something from Apple spare parts until about 2005).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OpenCores&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PA-RISC&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEC_Alpha&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PowerPC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6502" RevisionGUID="8e99fbd0-5ce5-41ad-94ec-9d58555adc06" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:33:43.653" UserId="2059" Text="BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am considering in this question are two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. BD-R XL (e.g. [Verbatim BD-R XL, 4x, 100GB, 5 ks, jewel, printable][1]), cost 75,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. External HDD of the same size, 500GB that is, e.g. [Verbatim Store 'n' Go USB 3.0 Portable Hard Drive 500GB Black][2], cost 74,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be Verbatim, is does not have to be only 500GB. These are only examples for direct comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/bd-r-xl-100gb-4x-wide-inkjet-printable-5-pack-jewel-case-43789/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/store-n-go-usb-3-0-portable-hard-drive-500gb-black-53029/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6502" RevisionGUID="8e99fbd0-5ce5-41ad-94ec-9d58555adc06" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:33:43.653" UserId="2059" Text="BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6502" RevisionGUID="8e99fbd0-5ce5-41ad-94ec-9d58555adc06" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:33:43.653" UserId="2059" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6499" RevisionGUID="d4e4ad4c-b523-4e5b-bd57-bba5129f6283" CreationDate="2016-12-22T06:28:28.797" UserId="203" Comment="Formatting and slight grammar tweaks" Text="For the best open tablets you will have to look at [Replicant OS devices page.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the most open devices that exist, however neither of the two tablets meet your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have two compelling alternatives however. One option, probably the fastest and most open, would be the Thinkpad X60 Tablet running Libreboot. It has a keyboard so it is rather large. The other alternative is an SOC like the BeagleBoard Black with a touchscreen addition (only seen this on a Raspberry PI), but those are small and awkward.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TL;DR:** Your main options are the Galaxy Tab 2 with Replicant OS (FSF endorsed), the Libreboot Thinkpad X60 Tablet (Also FSF endorsed), or the BeagleBoard Black (not sure if this would work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.replicant.us/supported-devices.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6502" RevisionGUID="1faa59b5-f016-4019-8170-a8540f0f88bc" CreationDate="2016-12-22T07:00:17.603" UserId="2059" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am considering in this question are two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. BD-R XL (e.g. [Verbatim BD-R XL, 4x, 100GB, 5 ks, jewel, printable][1]), cost 75,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. External HDD of the same size, 500GB that is, e.g. [Verbatim Store 'n' Go USB 3.0 Portable Hard Drive 500GB Black][2], cost 74,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be Verbatim, is does not have to be only 500GB. These are only examples for direct comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT1**: Budget is unlimited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/bd-r-xl-100gb-4x-wide-inkjet-printable-5-pack-jewel-case-43789/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/store-n-go-usb-3-0-portable-hard-drive-500gb-black-53029/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19178" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6502" RevisionGUID="56221ebf-4636-4171-b97b-22453f611a2c" CreationDate="2016-12-22T09:23:34.873" UserId="2059" Comment="The amount of data I would like to store" Text="BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am considering in this question are two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. BD-R XL (e.g. [Verbatim BD-R XL, 4x, 100GB, 5 ks, jewel, printable][1]), cost 75,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. External HDD of the same size, 500GB that is, e.g. [Verbatim Store 'n' Go USB 3.0 Portable Hard Drive 500GB Black][2], cost 74,-EUR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be Verbatim, is does not have to be only 500GB. These are only examples for direct comparison.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT1**: Budget is unlimited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT2**: The amount of data I would like to store is at maximum 5TB. Starting at 0.5TB right at this moment. The solution should be disk-failure-resistant if it is a RAID array.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/bd-r-xl-100gb-4x-wide-inkjet-printable-5-pack-jewel-case-43789/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/store-n-go-usb-3-0-portable-hard-drive-500gb-black-53029/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6503" RevisionGUID="d8bc4bd6-1382-4da8-ba08-543ac9a5bf66" CreationDate="2016-12-22T14:00:12.187" UserId="4896" Text="Money may be no object to you, but may well be for other readers, there for I'll keep budget in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if not budget, I assume that reliability and resilience are your primary concern. In which case, we can discard Bluray disks; no-one knows yet how these disks will fare over time, even if treated well. But given that they are usually physically more vulnerable, I'd certainly not rely long term on anything. In fact, I rip all my blurays disks as soon as I get them, just in case...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO my recommendation is for a decent, even premium, NAS box running RAID 6 or 10, so you have (upto) 2 broken disks of leeway. 4 of the major players are Buffalo, Drobo, QNAP and Synology; I have experience of some sort with all other this companies' ranges, and I'd usually be happy with any of their offerings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, given that we're required to provide a recommendation, I'll plump for a a Qnap TS-431P which currently retails for approx 280GBP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Relevant Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4 disk capacity - &#xD;&#xA; - Supports RAID 6 and 10 (and others)&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit Ethernet, eSATA and USB3 connections&#xD;&#xA; - Low power hardware - useful if always on&#xD;&#xA; - Decent performance compared to peers&#xD;&#xA; - Decent useability - consumer/SOHO focused rather than corporate&#xD;&#xA; - Decent reliability - assumed by brand&#xD;&#xA; - Can function as a private cloud server, if that is of interest&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: It it not possible to start small with RAID6/10 and scale up as needed. You could go with RAID1 (mirroring), add a disk and move to RAID 5, and then later add a disk and move to RAID6/10, but for each move you'd need to copy your data elsewhere while you made your changes, so this is not practicable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6505" RevisionGUID="2a2d1c90-769b-46e7-b5c0-0af2850c0f3e" CreationDate="2016-12-22T16:51:07.947" UserId="2607" Text="Best earbuds for under $100, but comparable to $200+ earbuds. Has a kevlar reinforced cable with braided nylon for protection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01A7G35S0?th=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Review site: https://www.cnet.com/products/1more-triple-driver-in-ear-headphones/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6497" RevisionGUID="308a10ba-e8f4-429f-9cd3-b1ab016e4fcf" CreationDate="2016-12-22T21:27:52.547" UserId="238" Comment="added some specs and inlined the link" Text="The focusrite 2i2 has what you need. [Here is a link][1] that has the full specs, but some of the relevant ones are: &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;Front panel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;- 2x line/mic/instrument combination inputs high quality XLR / 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- Combo 2x Line/Instrument switches &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- 2x Gain knobs &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- 2x Gain halo signal indicators 48V Phantom power switch Direct monitor switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;- Large monitor level dial &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- USB Connection LED indicator &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- Headphone output - 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- Headphone level knob&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Rear panel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;- 2 balanced monitor outputs 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- USB 2.0 Port &#xD;&#xA;&gt;- Kensington Lock slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Digital Performance: Supported rates 44.1 KHz, 48 KHz, 88.2 KHz, 96 KHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Dimensions (H x W x D) 45 x 175 x 100mm / 1.77 x 6.88 x 3.93&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Weight 580g / 20.45oz&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I regret not saving up for the 2i4, so you may want to consider that. But overall, I have been very happy with my 2i2, plus I must say, their customer service is excellent. Hope this helps!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.adorama.com/frsc2i2usb.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA7ejCBRDlp8uF6ezPnjoSJAAPED7MHtXexM6vqmXUx4mDSLmBXI6ZzZlYhPaYXwKV7q51RxoCy1bw_wcB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19192" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6497" RevisionGUID="308a10ba-e8f4-429f-9cd3-b1ab016e4fcf" CreationDate="2016-12-22T21:27:52.547" Comment="Proposed by 238 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 551" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="d5a0eea6-3692-4435-a76c-5cfd6b919a2e" CreationDate="2016-12-23T00:48:35.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6509" RevisionGUID="5665f644-d574-4a7a-a6ad-f36413bb3704" CreationDate="2016-12-23T07:34:52.450" UserId="203" Text="Supermicro offers a few motherboards with the FCBGA 1440 socket, mostly with a Xeon pre soldered, such as the [X11SSH-GTF-1585][1] and the [X11SSV-M4F][2] (these both have 65 W TDP, by the way). These are micro-ATX and mini-ITX boards. However, as with the AIMB 242, these boards are more for enterprise, and sold in bulk. I've not been able to find any retailers carrying these SKUs, so your most probable solution is the Skull Canyon NUC. If you really want to though, contact Supermicro and ask about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/C236_C232/X11SSH-GTF-1585.cfm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/C236_C232/X11SSV-M4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19199" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="1664e283-36a8-4709-81e1-432b68d70fd7" CreationDate="2016-12-23T08:18:49.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19205" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="b6dd6294-1c8d-4f72-aebe-2c280adaf46c" CreationDate="2016-12-23T14:21:43.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="57c8ddd7-b7e0-47ff-9ca3-3f2cb07af2dd" CreationDate="2016-12-23T16:20:29.887" UserId="5206" Comment="deleted 515 characters in body; edited title" Text="Due to budget constraints I constantly find myself several years behind &quot;current&quot; technology, when it comes to my PC hardware and operating systems. I do, however, make it a point to learn exactly what hardware is required to accomplish a given set of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, matching system specifications to a given task is often a game. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that I CAN'T accomplish things I regularly do with ease on one of my systems. Often people will speak authoritatively about the absolute need for hardware that is WAY over qualified, and equally over priced for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this background I am asking for direct experience with the task I've outlined, to find out what critical specs and PC hardware (CPU type, clock speed, FSB speeds, number of cores, OS, Video card specs) I will need to accomplish one simple thing: Be able to live stream videos, play DVDs, and play various downloaded video/movie files, while driving my TV to its full 1920 x 1080 resolution, and at a reasonable frame rate ( which I assume should be at least 30fps). In addition to the actual specs, it will be a helpful addition to know HOW LONG AGO such specs became pretty common. I.e., if what I need became common place in 2010, that is a helpful reference point. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I probably will want a windows box, if only because I've been intimately acquainted with most MS OS's for many years. I'm also looking for used equipment, because I doubt these tasks really require the latest, greatest machine. Again... not looking for brand recommendations, but the system specifications needed to easilly perform the task. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I have edited both the title and content of this post several times now both for brevity and clarity. For that reason, many comments no longer apply. Also, as the comment thread has already gotten too long, I ask that any further comments or answers at this point be limited to addressing the info I'm seeking." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19207" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="57c8ddd7-b7e0-47ff-9ca3-3f2cb07af2dd" CreationDate="2016-12-23T16:20:29.887" UserId="5206" Comment="deleted 515 characters in body; edited title" Text="minimum PC hardware specification to reproduce 1080i at 30 fps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19208" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="7e29dcc2-a335-4088-a3de-339330abe3af" CreationDate="2016-12-23T19:31:01.727" UserId="3645" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I have a Nexus 5X, that I use to connect to my drone with the DJI Go app. I plug my phone into the drone's remote controller through the USB C port on my phone. (Same concept as plugging into a computer)   &#xD;&#xA;**I am looking for a case with a built in battery pack**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has to support full data throughput&#xD;&#xA; - Has to be able to charge my phone at the same time&#xD;&#xA; - I would prefer larger than 2,000mAh&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about physical size, durability, color, price etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19209" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="6d8583e4-8476-4322-affd-6886a0cdcda9" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:23:06.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19211" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="0422ba25-0a1b-487c-8377-8825af5d77cb" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:48:20.123" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 93 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card (Radeon HD 4870 1-Gb 256 bit GDDR5) for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go. Price between (50$-100$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modern AMD card would have a similar or better performance and work with my computer in that price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 4 Gb 1333 MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: ASRock G41C-GS&#xD;&#xA; - PSU: 750 W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19212" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6438" RevisionGUID="0b9969c4-97d4-4224-a302-87d6f8dc9c56" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:48:20.370" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19214" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1385" RevisionGUID="28b74add-905f-487a-b6e9-3e47921d9d63" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:50:15.513" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19215" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6484" RevisionGUID="ce15f982-d450-4c1c-b825-ae2886eb6c4e" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:51:38.790" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:15,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;kenorb&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19232" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="51c2d41c-2de2-4b11-9396-32605f4582e8" CreationDate="2016-12-24T14:42:11.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19238" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="5229156d-8466-4b67-b381-4821cf547741" CreationDate="2016-12-24T20:46:11.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="3c53b72c-80f5-4e72-8166-00d0a66cd122" CreationDate="2016-12-24T22:29:23.940" UserId="1808" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology. So their will never be a driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an hdmi cable, *(there 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have huge problem at connection Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my tv in the same way I would do with an hdmi cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the hdmi output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the tv.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games though a bluetooth Joystick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19240" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="3c53b72c-80f5-4e72-8166-00d0a66cd122" CreationDate="2016-12-24T22:29:23.940" UserId="1808" Text="hdmi streaming system for less than 100€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19241" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="3c53b72c-80f5-4e72-8166-00d0a66cd122" CreationDate="2016-12-24T22:29:23.940" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7a32782e-c0e2-4bba-846a-39757f6c4692" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:11:21.240" UserId="1808" Comment="added 307 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an hdmi cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my tv in the same way I would do with an hdmi cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the hdmi output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the tv *(through hdmi)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a bluetooth Joystick *(while sending 1080p60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19243" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7a32782e-c0e2-4bba-846a-39757f6c4692" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:11:21.240" UserId="1808" Comment="added 307 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="wireless hdmi transmitter for less than 100€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19244" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7a32782e-c0e2-4bba-846a-39757f6c4692" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:11:21.240" UserId="1808" Comment="added 307 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="282912a4-6e5e-478d-b4cd-ec40dca3ef20" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:59:07.310" UserId="4065" Text="I've been using a Sony Xperia Z2 (6503) with CM12.1. Unlike all my previous phones with CM, outgoing audio quality during calls has been a constant issue, and kept being an issue on the replacement Z2 I got.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Z2 and Galaxy S7 will probably give a good idea of the kind of smartphone I'm after, but there's a load of other phones out there beyond those two. Desired features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Size/form factor:** standard high-ish end Android smartphone. Large smartphone or smaller phablet sized. Roughly, 5.2 - 6 inch screen (ideally 5.5 - 5.7 ish), and up to about 79 x 170 x 9 mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **SoC/RAM/ROM:** The Z2 I'm used to has a Snapdragon 801 (MSM8974AB quad Krait 400 2.3 Adreno 330). I'd like to improve on the CPU side if possible as we're a few years on from this generation, but open minded what to go to. 6-8 cores? 64 bit? I'm open minded. Ram - at least 3GB (2GB isn't enough). Rom - the usual 16 or 32 GB is fine. Graphics - I don't game so open minded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Phone/data bands:** primarily UK but able to handle some international. At minimum, GSM, and for data, GPRS/EDGE/HSDPA/LTE (UMTS 900 (8) / 2100 (1), and LTE 1800 (3) / 2600 (7) / 800 (20). Ideally good choices for EU and USA as well, and ideally a recent version/speed for LTE (Z2 has cat 4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **OS:** can load custom roms + TWRP, with a stable build of some kind (official or otherwise) out there. Not bothered if it has official CM support as long as there's an AOSP/CM style community rom without major issues that's good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Audio:** Good clear audio and reception on calls, whether held to ear or on speakerphone, is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Other features:** most phones of this kind will have the usual WiFi/Bluetooth etc, so I'll skip those. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Needs SDcard of some kind, a micro or C USB slot, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- IP x5+ rating for use in wet conditions (ideally with a screen that isn't completely hopeless in rain - I've read somewhere that some phones have a screen that detects touch moderately well even in rain), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- decent resilience (gorilla glass or similar, robust build),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- headphone socket that doesn't share with USB (so both can be used together),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- good camera for difficult light conditions (fast focus/good sensitivity is a bonus),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- as much GPS capability as it can have (all the networks!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Decent size battery/battery life, as I use it a lot for browsing/news feeds etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be buying off EBay, as previously, so models that are readily found 2nd hand online are a good thing. My budget is probably around UK £ 100 - 200, but that's for a good bargain price and for a used phone in good condition up to a year or two old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'm after several models, to put together a shortlist of up to about 5 - 7. But if there's only 1 or 2 stand-out models, that's fine too. I'm open to reading the specs for more if there are any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="282912a4-6e5e-478d-b4cd-ec40dca3ef20" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:59:07.310" UserId="4065" Text="Smartphone - not great experience with Xperia Z2, what model to get as its replacement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="282912a4-6e5e-478d-b4cd-ec40dca3ef20" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:59:07.310" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="03e0d1c0-1a2c-4b3d-b38c-67c498357a28" CreationDate="2016-12-25T00:05:06.917" UserId="4065" Comment="added 132 characters in body" Text="I've been using a Sony Xperia Z2 (6503) with CM12.1. Unlike all my previous phones with CM, outgoing audio quality during calls has been a constant issue, and kept being an issue on the replacement Z2 I got.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Z2 and Galaxy S7 will probably give a good idea of the kind of smartphone I'm after, but there's a load of other phones out there beyond those two. Desired features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Size/form factor/screen:** standard high-ish end Android smartphone. Large smartphone or smaller phablet sized. Roughly, 5.2 - 6 inch screen (ideally 5.5 - 5.7 ish), and up to about 79 x 170 x 9 mm,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **SoC/RAM/ROM:** The Z2 I'm used to has a Snapdragon 801 (MSM8974AB quad Krait 400 2.3 Adreno 330). I'd like to improve on the CPU side if possible as we're a few years on from this generation, but open minded what to go to. 6-8 cores? 64 bit? I'm open minded. Ram - at least 3GB (2GB isn't enough). Rom - the usual 16 or 32 GB is fine. Graphics - I don't game so open minded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Phone/data bands:** primarily UK but able to handle some international. At minimum, GSM, and for data, GPRS/EDGE/HSDPA/LTE (UMTS 900 (8) / 2100 (1), and LTE 1800 (3) / 2600 (7) / 800 (20). Ideally good choices for EU and USA as well, and ideally a recent version/speed for LTE (Z2 has cat 4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **OS:** can load custom roms + TWRP, with a stable build of some kind (official or otherwise) out there. Not bothered if it has official CM support as long as there's an AOSP/CM style community rom without major issues that's good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Audio:** Good clear audio and reception on calls, whether held to ear or on speakerphone, is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Other features:** most phones of this kind will have the usual WiFi/Bluetooth etc, so I'll skip those. A lot of other details aren't important to me so I've left them out as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Needs SDcard of some kind, a micro or C USB slot, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- IP x5+ rating for use in wet conditions (ideally with a screen that isn't completely hopeless in rain - I've read somewhere that some phones have a screen that detects touch moderately well even in rain), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- decent resilience (gorilla glass or similar, robust build),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- headphone socket that doesn't share with USB (so both can be used together),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- good camera for difficult light conditions (fast focus/good sensitivity is a bonus) + front facing camera, that can do 720HD or better,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- as much GPS capability as it can have (all the networks!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Decent size battery/battery life, as I use it a lot for browsing/news feeds etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be buying off EBay, as previously, so models that are readily found 2nd hand online are a good thing. My budget is probably around UK £ 100 - 200, but that's for a good bargain price and for a used phone in good condition up to a year or two old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'm after several models, to put together a shortlist of up to about 5 - 7. But if there's only 1 or 2 stand-out models, that's fine too. I'm open to reading the specs for more if there are any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="db17b629-f4ad-4bf7-9ba6-9b91595d8c26" CreationDate="2016-12-25T02:06:00.720" UserId="5239" Text="**I'm looking for a high performance and durable computer to work with. It's primary use is for Statistical Modeling and Analysis.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Likely, I will need to use R, some SQL based programs (SQuirreL, for example), Python for data sets in excess of 2 GBs. I doubt I need to use SAS on any personal laptop as the licenses would be available on computers at universities. In addition, my focus will be on some Predictive Modeling or Statistical Learning methods on datasets this large, so it can be pretty time-consuming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not the most computer-hardware oriented person either. If you may offer suggestions on a laptop well-suited for a student entering a Masters or PhD Statistics student, Statistician, or even Data Scientist, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is one of the few posts I've seen publicly discussing this question][1], but if I am going to invest a decent amount of money into something like this, a second opinion makes more sense here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/statistics/comments/2n0doq/best_laptop_computers_for_stats_analysis/?st=ix3ulpsd&amp;sh=2ebfc37d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19252" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="db17b629-f4ad-4bf7-9ba6-9b91595d8c26" CreationDate="2016-12-25T02:06:00.720" UserId="5239" Text="Recommended Computer for Statistician or M.S./PhD Statistics Student" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19253" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="db17b629-f4ad-4bf7-9ba6-9b91595d8c26" CreationDate="2016-12-25T02:06:00.720" UserId="5239" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="951ae846-0db2-4c7e-abe5-62c5a298a0de" CreationDate="2016-12-25T02:31:42.350" UserId="5239" Comment="deleted 114 characters in body" Text="**I'm looking for a high performance and durable computer to work with. It's primary use is for Statistical Modeling and Analysis.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Likely, I will need to use R, some SQL based programs (SQuirreL, for example), Python for data sets in excess of 2 GBs. In addition, my focus will be on some Predictive Modeling or Statistical Learning methods on datasets this large, so it can be pretty time-consuming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not the most computer-hardware oriented person either. If you may offer suggestions on a laptop well-suited for a student entering a Masters or PhD Statistics student, Statistician, or even Data Scientist, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is one of the few posts I've seen publicly discussing this question][1], but if I am going to invest a decent amount of money into something like this, a second opinion makes more sense here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/statistics/comments/2n0doq/best_laptop_computers_for_stats_analysis/?st=ix3ulpsd&amp;sh=2ebfc37d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19257" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="822e8acd-5e18-46cf-a0fc-eb2923d13e17" CreationDate="2016-12-25T03:12:52.507" UserId="5239" Comment="deleted 150 characters in body" Text="**I'm looking for a high performance and durable computer to work with. It's primary use is for Statistical Modeling and Analysis.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Likely, I will need to use R, some SQL based programs (SQuirreL, for example), Python for data sets in excess of 2 Gbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not the most computer-hardware oriented person either. If you may offer suggestions on a laptop well-suited for a student entering a Masters or PhD Statistics student, Statistician, or even Data Scientist, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is one of the few posts I've seen publicly discussing this question][1], but if I am going to invest a decent amount of money into something like this, a second opinion makes more sense here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/statistics/comments/2n0doq/best_laptop_computers_for_stats_analysis/?st=ix3ulpsd&amp;sh=2ebfc37d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6520" RevisionGUID="5d6cbc83-c07b-436b-8ce8-9ce53c60bedb" CreationDate="2016-12-25T04:30:52.010" UserId="664" Text="A while ago, I asked [this question](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2669/a-v-receiver-for-hdmi-optical-audio-in), wondering if there was a good A/V receiver that could meet my needs. I received a helpful answer, but forgot about it because of school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm back looking for A/V receivers, but now that I know they tend to be more expensive, I did another Amazon search and came across [this Yamaha device](https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V679BL-7-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00VIRG3GO). $350 doesn't seem too bad (it is as expensive as the TV it's powering, but that's alright), and it's rated highly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is, it has 6 HDMI in; I have three (+1 potential) HDMI devices. There are also 4 digital A/V in, two analog A/V in, plus two more analog audio in. It also has 7.2 surround and a &quot;Zone 2 Party Mode&quot; feature. That's all really nice, but I'm not sure I'll ever need that many inputs and outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do want to keep BT+WiFi if possible. I can give up the streaming options (BT works around that), but wireless control is handy (my phone does have IR, but that obviously only works in direct line of sight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This receiver has tons of features, and it's really tempting to buy it because of that. But I don't think I have much use for everything it offers. Is there a more toned-down version of this, that's maybe a little cheaper? I only need four HDMI really, an optical audio in and one or two analog A/V in. 5.1 surround maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked out the lower models of the V679, but they're either not available, more expensive than the higher tiers, or not cheap enough to justify the feature loss." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6520" RevisionGUID="5d6cbc83-c07b-436b-8ce8-9ce53c60bedb" CreationDate="2016-12-25T04:30:52.010" UserId="664" Text="Is there a &quot;lite&quot; version of the Yamaha RX-V679(BL)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6520" RevisionGUID="5d6cbc83-c07b-436b-8ce8-9ce53c60bedb" CreationDate="2016-12-25T04:30:52.010" UserId="664" Text="&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="19dfebb3-a7f5-4cb4-8f80-685f32cc9d87" CreationDate="2016-12-25T06:07:21.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6521" RevisionGUID="2e48bfd6-a9e5-4bd8-82a4-e6bde6b6152e" CreationDate="2016-12-25T07:46:40.147" UserId="5217" Text="I'm looking to buy a pen to be used with my moto G, and it has to have a fine point because I plan on writing with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I know [these kinds](https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/tradeshow-promotions/stick-stylus.htm?variant=BLANK&amp;imageID=239801&amp;feed=google&amp;gclid=CMq2q_frjtECFUiRfgodL_kA7Q) of pen work with any capacitive screen and hence it works the moto G. But they're too thick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm planning on buying [one of these](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Fine-Round-Thin-Tip-Capacitive-Touch-Screen-Stylus-Pen-Pink/131826450280?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D7a3d4e181fba4831ab6477bdcbbbfc1c%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D381667178163). The issue is that the website gives out a list of compatible devices with just a few devices on it (moto G not in it). But my question is: if this is a capacitive pen, shouldn't it work with all capacitive screen devices? Can I be sure that this pen will indeed work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, is there a better option to get a pen that work the 1st gen Moto G phone?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6521" RevisionGUID="2e48bfd6-a9e5-4bd8-82a4-e6bde6b6152e" CreationDate="2016-12-25T07:46:40.147" UserId="5217" Text="Will a capacitive pen work with a moto G phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6521" RevisionGUID="2e48bfd6-a9e5-4bd8-82a4-e6bde6b6152e" CreationDate="2016-12-25T07:46:40.147" UserId="5217" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19266" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="e2a0e0bb-f5e6-4a68-9962-188da4bc0c1c" CreationDate="2016-12-25T08:08:01.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="eb59445f-8b83-4fe7-9cbb-b0b197d71af6" CreationDate="2016-12-25T12:00:52.833" UserId="1410" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple harddrives and lots of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, think desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="eb59445f-8b83-4fe7-9cbb-b0b197d71af6" CreationDate="2016-12-25T12:00:52.833" UserId="1410" Text="Is there such a thing as a Schelpptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="eb59445f-8b83-4fe7-9cbb-b0b197d71af6" CreationDate="2016-12-25T12:00:52.833" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19273" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4338" RevisionGUID="901fd511-9798-4c4d-a7d9-fce9068b0fed" CreationDate="2016-12-25T16:11:13.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6525" RevisionGUID="4d617ad3-9724-4584-91cd-dffe063a2eb5" CreationDate="2016-12-25T16:20:26.903" UserId="664" Text="Yes, that stylus will work. It's capacitive and so is your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes, online listings like that will include a list of &quot;compatible&quot; products, either in the title or in the description. The list doesn't really mean anything, but if someone searches something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; `&lt;popular device&gt; stylus`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the listings with `&lt;popular device&gt;` are more likely to show up higher in the search results." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19279" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="4d63b890-8c8e-48a2-afb1-296e89fa3395" CreationDate="2016-12-25T16:35:40.703" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Is there such a thing as a Schelpptop? (small, portable desktop-ish)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19283" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="4b43041e-2c45-45ce-be64-483d3941ff0c" CreationDate="2016-12-25T19:17:07.820" UserId="1410" Comment="added 809 characters in body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple harddrives and lots of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, think desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Tl;dr - Maybe I am not being &quot;reasonable&quot;, but I never pay as much as USD 500 for a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I buy a low-spec, with 17&quot; screen; don't care about graphics, because I am a programmer &amp; don't game too much. I tend to buy RAM and harddrives mid-laptop, as &amp; when they die or I can get a higher capacity, so carry them over from one laptop to the next.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For my last, I got a really cheap Core I7 with 17&quot; (ok, that was about $500), with a miserable 2gB RAM(!) and 500gB harddrive (yup, they sell such a beast),  and transferred over 16gB RAM, a 2tB hardrive &amp; 1 tB SSD from old laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a bunch of desktop drives &amp; RAM, so I am thinking case, motherboard &amp; display only, where the display needs to be at least 17&quot;, but not phenomenally hi-res or with a mjor GPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6527" RevisionGUID="291d9e67-4d5e-4171-a7d6-dbe215ab2b53" CreationDate="2016-12-25T20:10:22.000" UserId="4523" Text="Here is a sample of a system that does not meet your price requirements, which are a bit unrealistic, but meets the high RAM and multiple drive requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Origin PC:  EON 15 X PRO(https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/eon15-x-pro/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max of 64GB ram &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max of 2x m.2 drives and 2x 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  This is in the USD$3000 to USD$4000 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are not against using external SSDs, you can always use multiple SSDs, in USB 3.0 or eSATA enclosures, and just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6528" RevisionGUID="e257eeb4-a7e1-4d44-a67d-ff099e80fa1d" CreationDate="2016-12-25T20:25:36.300" UserId="3980" Text="I would recommend a [Precision 15 5000 Series (5510)][1]. It starts at about $1,360 and should meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is reasonably powerful with the i5 6300HQ, with up to 1 terabyte of storage space. Fairly lightweight and portable. The Quadro CPU will improve graphics performance as well as provide CUDA capability for software that can utilize it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-6300HQ -- Quad Core, 2.3GHz base, turboboost to 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;500GB HDD -- Different Harddrive configuration options available including: HDDs, SSDs, PCIe SSDs and self encrypting drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nvidia Quadro M1000M -- 2GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FHD 15.6&quot; Display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;56Wh Lithium Ion Battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;~4lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m5510-workstation/pd?cs=45&amp;oc=xctop551015us&amp;model_id=precision-m5510-workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="9053fae4-fa5b-4664-a868-7ea68254638d" CreationDate="2016-12-25T20:47:29.673" UserId="1410" Comment="deleted 441 characters in body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple harddrives and lots of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, think desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question ios whether there is any such device at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6529" RevisionGUID="e79db148-0c8c-4525-9234-3f39ee2942cf" CreationDate="2016-12-25T20:56:55.177" UserId="3980" Text="The next best option I could come up with was the [Dell Inspiron 17 i5759-7660SLV Signature Edition Laptop][1], which is currently on sale in the Microsoft store. ***It is selling for about $580***, not including shipping or taxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It almost satisfies all your requirements, the exception being the price, which is 80 USD over your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**i7 6500U** -- Quad Core, supports up to 32GB RAM (Comes with 16GB of RAM) -- This CPU supports the following types of RAM: DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866 and DDR3L-1600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**17.3&quot; 1080p display**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1TB HDD** -- This should be fairly easy to replace with either a SSD or something of greater capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of &quot;upgradability&quot;, you don't have too many options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You upgrade the RAM however, you will need two 16GB sticks since most laptops only provide two RAM slots. I am not sure whether the laptop's chipset will allow for 32GB, or for any other RAM type besides DDR3L-1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for storage, you could upgrade the 1TB HDD, and replace the Optical Drive with a HDD caddy. Furthermore, you could add a high capacity SD card for more space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Dell-Inspiron-17-i5759-7660SLV-Signature-Edition-Laptop/productID.5073971700?tduid=(b291acd2c159aba2ea706701ac25d322)(256380)(2459594)(NKa3hZyYoHA-MSXQw67Spu_rt1nIW9gWRw)()" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6529" RevisionGUID="9be9f22f-4d31-4700-97c5-71c82ed637a4" CreationDate="2016-12-25T21:02:35.443" UserId="3980" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="The next best option I could come up with was the [Dell Inspiron 17 i5759-7660SLV Signature Edition Laptop][1], which is currently on sale in the Microsoft store. ***It is selling for about $580***, not including shipping or taxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It almost satisfies all your requirements, the exception being the price, which is 80 USD over your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**i7 6500U** -- Quad Core, supports up to 32GB RAM (Comes with 16GB of RAM) -- This CPU supports the following types of RAM: DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866 and DDR3L-1600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**16GB of DDR3L-1600 RAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**17.3&quot; 1080p display**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1TB HDD** -- This should be fairly easy to replace with either a SSD or something of greater capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of &quot;upgradability&quot;, you don't have too many options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You upgrade the RAM however, you will need two 16GB sticks since most laptops only provide two RAM slots. I am not sure whether the laptop's chipset will allow for 32GB, or for any other RAM type besides DDR3L-1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for storage, you could upgrade the 1TB HDD, and replace the Optical Drive with a HDD caddy. Furthermore, you could add a high capacity SD card for more space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Dell-Inspiron-17-i5759-7660SLV-Signature-Edition-Laptop/productID.5073971700?tduid=(b291acd2c159aba2ea706701ac25d322)(256380)(2459594)(NKa3hZyYoHA-MSXQw67Spu_rt1nIW9gWRw)()" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19289" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="b2716ab6-11af-4da7-82c8-89289b39ef38" CreationDate="2016-12-25T21:03:38.837" UserId="1410" Comment="added 213 characters in body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple 3.5&quot; harddrives and lots of RAM. I currently have 1tB + 2tB and 16gB. I want much more &amp; since desktop drives &amp; RAM are cheaper, I think that I am looking for a slimline desktop, which I can sit in my lap(!) - but what about a screen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, think desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few 3.5&quot; drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question ios whether there is any such device at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6531" RevisionGUID="485d4a70-e9a8-42ce-8731-89cb4d92f5a2" CreationDate="2016-12-25T22:07:37.170" UserId="3980" Text="I would recommend the [Z170A SLI PLUS][1]. It costs about $135 on Amazon.com. I use this motherboard in a personal rig, and it performs well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reasons why I would recommend this motherboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the z170 chipset, which is overclockable, and because it will allow you to overclock you unlocked i5 6600k.&#xD;&#xA; - Supports DDR4-3000 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Has four DIMM slots&#xD;&#xA; - Has room for large CPU coolers -- I'm using a [Thermaltake NiC C5][2] with this motherboard. The NiC C5 a large cooler but, it still allows me to use all four RAM slots.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 SATA ports with RAID 0, 1, 5 and 10 Support&#xD;&#xA; - Reinforced PCIe x16 Slots for large graphics cards&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent Overclock-ability &#xD;&#xA; - ATX Form Factor&#xD;&#xA; - [Reasonable iGPU performance][3] (integrated GPU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Solution-Z170A-Motherboard-SLI/dp/B019EYYNP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482702657&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=z170%20sli%20plus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-120mm-Untouchable-Cooler-CLP0608/dp/B00E1JA1PA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482703428&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nic%20c5&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-z170a-sli-plus-review,19.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19297" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6521" RevisionGUID="70109a7c-26cc-4990-9ef0-b298daaf3624" CreationDate="2016-12-25T22:31:29.243" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19302" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="4e445703-5b4f-45da-a747-f32f0594118c" CreationDate="2016-12-26T05:18:17.537" UserId="664" Comment="some typos" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple 3.5&quot; harddrives and lots of RAM. I currently have 1tB + 2tB and 16gB. I want much more &amp; since desktop drives &amp; RAM are cheaper, I think that I am looking for a slimline desktop, which I can sit in my lap(!) - but what about a screen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, thin desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few 3.5&quot; drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question is whether there is any such device at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19303" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="4e445703-5b4f-45da-a747-f32f0594118c" CreationDate="2016-12-26T05:18:17.537" UserId="664" Comment="some typos" Text="Is there such a thing as a Schleptop? (small, portable desktop-ish)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19304" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="4e445703-5b4f-45da-a747-f32f0594118c" CreationDate="2016-12-26T05:18:17.537" Comment="Proposed by 664 approved by 155 edit id of 553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19306" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="0eba9526-ac89-4e06-ad93-8e4114ba4169" CreationDate="2016-12-26T09:00:09.843" UserId="1410" Comment="added 317 characters in body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple 3.5&quot; harddrives and lots of RAM. I currently have 1tB + 2tB and 16gB. I want much more &amp; since desktop drives &amp; RAM are cheaper, I think that I am looking for a slimline desktop, which I can sit in my lap(!) - but what about a screen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, thin desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few 3.5&quot; drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question is whether there is any such device at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Highly priced laptops don't seem to be the way to go. It is looking like a small desktop. One which can sit atop my lap. I _*suppiose*_ that I could sit it on the floor beside me  ... actually, the biggest challenge seems to be getting a  screen and keyboard onto my lap (drive a ltop from a desktop?). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19307" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6453" RevisionGUID="f5fe28af-4c13-4a5b-a786-f76cf6208b6c" CreationDate="2016-12-26T09:18:10.190" UserId="4827" Comment="47" />
  <row Id="19308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6532" RevisionGUID="1e245fa6-f83d-4ebb-a1df-5868bffe50fb" CreationDate="2016-12-26T12:31:14.860" UserId="664" Text="I don't think you're going to get what you want for $250. You're describing something like the S7 ($680+), or maybe the Axon 7 ($400+ and no water resistance). Smartphones are getting cheaper and &quot;flagship killers&quot; like the Axon 7 and OnePlus are on the rise, but they're not down to the low-end prices yet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for older phones, I don't know if any will really fit what you want, either. You may get that £200 pricepoint, but some features, like water resistance, only became popular this year. The Galaxy S5 does have IP67 (with the back on), but it's a 1080p screen, and the same processor as your Z2 (there is the LTE-A version, which has QHD, but it doesn't have LTE B20). You might have to raise your budget a bit if you want to keep water resistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're fine with giving up the IP rating, these older phones might be what you want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Note 4 - SD 805, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.7&quot; -- £260 eBay&#xD;&#xA; - LG G3 - SD 801, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.5&quot; -- £123 eBay&#xD;&#xA; - LG G4 - SD 808, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.5&quot; -- £250 eBay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need that water resistance and can give up a QHD screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - S5 - SD 801, 3GB RAM, 1080p Screen 5.1&quot; -- £215 eBay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you should go with a newer phone, though, since you say you want a CPU/modem upgrade. The phones above are all 1-2 years old and a little outdated. They do all have good development scenes though, and I know CyanogenMod 14.1 is out for the Note 4. With Cyanogen's recent disconinuation, development there has been halted, but will be picked up with Emotion AOSP some time next year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even in newer phones, it's really only the flagships getting water resistance, and some still aren't, like the V20. These are _way_ above your pricepoint, so if you get a modern phone, you have to give up water resistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your requirements somewhat contradict. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You want an older phone, because of the price, but it needs to have an upgraded modem from the Z2, which is hard since that's only 2.5 years old. &#xD;&#xA; - You want a high resolution screen on an older phone. I don't know if that means you're fine with 1080p, but I'm taking it to mean QHD. Not too many phones from 1/2 years ago have QHD.&#xD;&#xA; - You want water resistance. Like I said before, water resistance wasn't that popular until very recently. Even now, it's only on highly-priced options.&#xD;&#xA; - You want something between £100 and £200, which just isn't realistic, even looking at 2-year-old options. £400-£500 is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ultimately, I'd recommend you get the Axon 7 (_not_ the Mini). It's around £430 new on eBay for the 128GB version, so you can probably find it cheaper than that used with a lower capacity. I know it's above your budget, but like I said before, it's just not a realistic range. For the price, you get:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD 5.5&quot; Screen -- High resolution and matches your size request&#xD;&#xA; - SD 820 -- Technically still the newest high-end Qualcomm (SD 821 isn't really a new generation)&#xD;&#xA; - SD Card Slot&#xD;&#xA; - 20MP Camera @ ƒ/1.8 -- I hear the camera software is a little iffy, but there are third party options, and that was months ago&#xD;&#xA; - 8MP Selfie Camera @ ƒ/2.2 -- Higher up in the resolution range&#xD;&#xA; - It has a UK/EU variant, so it's good with cellular technology.&#xD;&#xA; - Gorilla Glass 4&#xD;&#xA; - Separate 3.5mm Headphone Jack&#xD;&#xA; - Stereo Front-Facing Speakers -- audio won't be a problem&#xD;&#xA; - A Great Development Scene -- ZTE is encouraging user feedback and supporting custom development&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's only missing the water resistance, and that can just be fixed with a lifeproof case or some Super Glue if you're daring ;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other options, but I think this is the phone that most closely matches your requirements, with the price in mind." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6532" RevisionGUID="a71084d1-612b-4b33-8462-831a34c21557" CreationDate="2016-12-27T00:12:11.037" UserId="664" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text="I don't think you're going to get what you want for $250. You're describing something like the S7 ($680+), or maybe the Axon 7 ($400+ and no water resistance). Smartphones are getting cheaper and &quot;flagship killers&quot; like the Axon 7 and OnePlus are on the rise, but they're not down to the low-end prices yet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for older phones, I don't know if any will really fit what you want, either. You may get that £200 pricepoint, but some features, like water resistance, only became popular this year. The Galaxy S5 does have IP67 (with the back on), but it's a 1080p screen, and the same processor as your Z2 (there is the LTE-A version, which has QHD, but it doesn't have LTE B20). You might have to raise your budget a bit if you want to keep water resistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're fine with giving up the IP rating, these older phones might be what you want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Note 4 - SD 805, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.7&quot; -- £260 eBay&#xD;&#xA; - LG G3 - SD 801, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.5&quot; -- £123 eBay&#xD;&#xA; - LG G4 - SD 808, 3GB RAM, QHD Screen 5.5&quot; -- £250 eBay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need that water resistance and can give up a QHD screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - S5 - SD 801, 3GB RAM, 1080p Screen 5.1&quot; -- £215 eBay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you should go with a newer phone, though, since you say you want a CPU/modem upgrade. The phones above are all 1-2 years old and a little outdated. They do all have good development scenes though, and I know CyanogenMod 14.1 is out for the Note 4. With Cyanogen's recent disconinuation, development there has been halted, but will be picked up with Emotion AOSP some time next year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even in newer phones, it's really only the flagships getting water resistance, and some still aren't, like the V20. These are _way_ above your pricepoint, so if you get a modern phone, you have to give up water resistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your requirements somewhat contradict. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You want an older phone, because of the price, but it needs to have an upgraded modem from the Z2, which is hard since that's only 2.5 years old. &#xD;&#xA; - You want a high resolution screen on an older phone. I don't know if that means you're fine with 1080p, but I'm taking it to mean QHD. Not too many phones from 1/2 years ago have QHD.&#xD;&#xA; - You want water resistance. Like I said before, water resistance wasn't that popular until very recently. Even now, it's only on highly-priced options.&#xD;&#xA; - You want something between £100 and £200, which just isn't realistic, even looking at 2-year-old options. £400-£500 is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ultimately, I'd recommend you get the Axon 7 (_not_ the Mini). It's around £430 new on eBay for the 128GB version, so you can probably find it cheaper than that used with a lower capacity. I know it's above your budget, but like I said before, it's just not a realistic range. For the price, you get:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD 5.5&quot; Screen -- High resolution and matches your size request&#xD;&#xA; - SD 820 -- Technically still the newest high-end Qualcomm (SD 821 isn't really a new generation)&#xD;&#xA; - SD Card Slot&#xD;&#xA; - 20MP Camera @ ƒ/1.8 -- I hear the camera software is a little iffy, but there are third party options, and that was months ago&#xD;&#xA; - 8MP Selfie Camera @ ƒ/2.2 -- Higher up in the resolution range&#xD;&#xA; - It has a UK/EU variant, so it's good with cellular technology.&#xD;&#xA; - Gorilla Glass 4&#xD;&#xA; - Separate 3.5mm Headphone Jack&#xD;&#xA; - Stereo Front-Facing Speakers -- audio won't be a problem&#xD;&#xA; - A Great Development Scene -- ZTE is encouraging user feedback and supporting custom development&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's only missing the water resistance, and that can just be fixed with a lifeproof case or some Super Glue if you're daring ;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other options, but I think this is the phone that most closely matches your requirements, with the price in mind.&#xA;&#xA;UPDATE: Amazon has an unlocked version for under £400. I don't know if it's actually a UK compatible version (details are sparse), but I reckon it is, and Amazon is pretty good with its return policies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6535" RevisionGUID="d19b923e-c79b-4768-a969-a1cc7c915a0f" CreationDate="2016-12-27T00:31:40.887" UserId="5251" Text="My old(ish) macbook has run out of storage, so I bought an external USB drive. I have installed mac OSX onto it and it is now my main boot drive. I fear the drive USB may come out occasionally given that the macbook is a portable device. Is there anything which can physically keep / lock the USB in place to eliminate this threat?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus question:&#xD;&#xA;Out of curiosity, what would happen if I unplugged the boot drive whilst the macbook was running?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19321" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6535" RevisionGUID="d19b923e-c79b-4768-a969-a1cc7c915a0f" CreationDate="2016-12-27T00:31:40.887" UserId="5251" Text="How to keep / lock USB in place" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19322" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6535" RevisionGUID="d19b923e-c79b-4768-a969-a1cc7c915a0f" CreationDate="2016-12-27T00:31:40.887" UserId="5251" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="5e30e20c-4a5f-4155-9987-40bc241fa09b" CreationDate="2016-12-27T01:32:51.620" UserId="1808" Comment="no need for upper case" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an hdmi cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my tv in the same way I would do with an hdmi cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the hdmi output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the tv *(through hdmi)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6536" RevisionGUID="c2779262-1238-4f5c-8c3b-fd78a7009e23" CreationDate="2016-12-27T01:37:59.957" UserId="5252" Text="I am looking for a decent cooler for my i7 6700k. I have NOT bought the CPU yet. So, if there is a (not that great at terminology) ATX sized cooler that is ~&lt;60 dollars, that would be great.&#xA;&#xA;Unless, of course, the 6700k HAS a stock cooler. Please only tell me if it has stock IF YOU HAVE BOUGHT IT. I have read multiple sites saying it does and doesnt. Pictures would be awesome.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks!&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6536" RevisionGUID="c2779262-1238-4f5c-8c3b-fd78a7009e23" CreationDate="2016-12-27T01:37:59.957" UserId="5252" Text="Intel i7 6700k cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6536" RevisionGUID="c2779262-1238-4f5c-8c3b-fd78a7009e23" CreationDate="2016-12-27T01:37:59.957" UserId="5252" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19330" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6536" RevisionGUID="216d48db-602e-4da1-832f-a26a77f345db" CreationDate="2016-12-27T02:13:06.783" UserId="5252" Comment="fixed another thing from suggestion from comments" Text="I am looking for a decent cooler for my i7 6700k. I have *not* bought the CPU yet. So, if there is a (not that great at terminology) ATX sized cooler that is ~&lt;60 dollars, that would be great.&#xA;&#xA;Unless, of course, the 6700k already has a stock cooler. Please only tell me if it has stock if you have bought it. I have read multiple sites saying it does and doesnt. Pictures would be awesome.&#xA;&#xA;I'm not overclocking, and playing games like Minecraft, FSX, Kerbal Space Program, and Planet Coaster. Also, I use Sony Vegas Pro 14 for video editing and rendering.&#xA;&#xA;Noise is not an issue for me since I'm using headphones.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks!&#xA;&#xA;Edit: thanks to commenters for suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6538" RevisionGUID="20b7c690-4f24-4c2a-b28d-83266ab23aec" CreationDate="2016-12-27T03:48:45.983" UserId="5001" Text="Since you are not looking to overclock or anything save yourself a few bucks and go with the I7-6700 Retail Box [I7-6700 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Intel-I7-6700-FC-LGA14C-Processor-BX80662I76700/dp/B0136JONG8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482809655&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=i7-6700k).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fan verification based on model from [Intel](https://ark.intel.com/products/88196/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_00-GHz#@specifications). It is said to include Thermal Solution - E973979. [Link for Picture](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Radiator-Intel-Original-CPU-PWM-Socket-1156-E97379-001/dp/B005M0NW1M)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you decide you want to go with a i7-6700K you have two options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fan cool it and never plan on overclocking us a [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO](https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482810286&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=cpu+fan+1151).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Water cool it with a [Corsair Hyrdo H60](https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482810374&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=corsair+water+cooler) and give yourself flexibility on being able to overclock in the future and stay in your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, there is no need to spend the extra money on the &quot;K&quot; version of the CPU to begin with if you are not going to overclock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6535" RevisionGUID="df03380d-9ad7-458c-ba5c-d27895aef8d1" CreationDate="2016-12-27T06:09:50.673" UserId="57" Comment="Remove &quot;Bonus question&quot; to focus on the recommendation part" Text="My old(ish) macbook has run out of storage, so I bought an external USB drive. I have installed mac OSX onto it and it is now my main boot drive. I fear the drive USB may come out occasionally given that the macbook is a portable device. Is there anything which can physically keep / lock the USB in place to eliminate this threat?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6539" RevisionGUID="dbd0a852-144c-4a2c-9b1a-382ff5a64197" CreationDate="2016-12-27T07:14:53.873" UserId="3980" Text="You might try what's described in [this][1] video. Basically what he does is bend the &quot;retention pins&quot; that help to hold in USB plugs more firmly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_ruqSrkxNU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6539" RevisionGUID="44c5eac6-d5b2-442d-a45c-ac872c380982" CreationDate="2016-12-27T07:31:43.287" UserId="3980" Comment="added 883 characters in body" Text="You might try what's described in [this][1] video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically what he does is bend the &quot;retention pins&quot; inside the female end of the USB port so that the male plug is held in more firmly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if your &quot;USB drive&quot; is a &quot;stick&quot; that just plugs in, or a short cable with a portable HDD on the end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; If it is a portable hard drive with a cable, (see image) you could do what user NZKshatriya suggested in [a previous question][2] and &quot;*just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop*.&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in conclusion, the two best options I think you have are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bend the (possibly loose) USB &quot;retention pins&quot; on the female USB plug &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop&quot; (assuming that it is a portable hard drive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_ruqSrkxNU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6523/is-there-such-a-thing-as-a-schleptop-small-portable-desktop-ish/6527#6527&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF9Uw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="b2f06dd6-6406-4529-893e-100953892633" CreationDate="2016-12-27T09:55:52.870" UserId="4065" Comment="added 108 characters in body" Text="I've been using a Sony Xperia Z2 (6503) with CM12.1. Unlike all my previous phones with CM, outgoing audio quality during calls has been a constant issue, and kept being an issue on the replacement Z2 I got.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Z2 and Galaxy S7 will probably give a good idea of the kind of smartphone I'm after, but there's a load of other phones out there beyond those two. Desired features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Size/form factor/screen:** standard high-ish end Android smartphone. Large smartphone or smaller phablet sized. Roughly, 5.2 - 6 inch screen (ideally 5.5 - 5.7 ish), and up to about 79 x 170 x 9 mm. I don't need ultra-high res on the screen, though, 1080 HD like the Xperia or even a bit less would be fine.&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **SoC/RAM/ROM:** The Z2 I'm used to has a Snapdragon 801 (MSM8974AB quad Krait 400 2.3 Adreno 330). I'd like to improve on the CPU side if possible as we're a few years on from this generation, but open minded what to go to. 6-8 cores? 64 bit? I'm open minded. Ram - at least 3GB (2GB isn't enough). Rom - the usual 16 or 32 GB is fine. Graphics - I don't game so open minded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Phone/data bands:** primarily UK but able to handle some international. At minimum, GSM, and for data, GPRS/EDGE/HSDPA/LTE (UMTS 900 (8) / 2100 (1), and LTE 1800 (3) / 2600 (7) / 800 (20). Ideally good choices for EU and USA as well, and ideally a recent version/speed for LTE (Z2 has cat 4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **OS:** can load custom roms + TWRP, with a stable build of some kind (official or otherwise) out there. Not bothered if it has official CM support as long as there's an AOSP/CM style community rom without major issues that's good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Audio:** Good clear audio and reception on calls, whether held to ear or on speakerphone, is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Other features:** most phones of this kind will have the usual WiFi/Bluetooth etc, so I'll skip those. A lot of other details aren't important to me so I've left them out as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Needs SDcard of some kind, a micro or C USB slot, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- IP x5+ rating for use in wet conditions (ideally with a screen that isn't completely hopeless in rain - I've read somewhere that some phones have a screen that detects touch moderately well even in rain), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- decent resilience (gorilla glass or similar, robust build),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- headphone socket that doesn't share with USB (so both can be used together),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- good camera for difficult light conditions (fast focus/good sensitivity is a bonus) + front facing camera, that can do 720HD or better,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- as much GPS capability as it can have (all the networks!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Decent size battery/battery life, as I use it a lot for browsing/news feeds etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be buying off EBay, as previously, so models that are readily found 2nd hand online are a good thing. My budget is probably around UK £ 100 - 200, but that's for a good bargain price and for a used phone in good condition up to a year or two old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'm after several models, to put together a shortlist of up to about 5 - 7. But if there's only 1 or 2 stand-out models, that's fine too. I'm open to reading the specs for more if there are any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6517" RevisionGUID="41caac9f-ccab-4b80-bfcf-52e0b0e69ef4" CreationDate="2016-12-27T10:01:29.317" UserId="4065" Comment="added 3 characters in body; deleted 1 character in body; added 51 characters in body" Text="I've been using a Sony Xperia Z2 (6503) with CM12.1. Unlike all my previous phones with CM, outgoing audio quality during calls has been a constant issue, and kept being an issue on the replacement Z2 I got.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm replacing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Z2 and Galaxy S7 will probably give a good idea of the kind of smartphone I'm after, but there's a load of other phones out there beyond those two. Desired features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Size/form factor/screen:** standard high-ish end Android smartphone. Large smartphone or smaller phablet sized. Roughly, 5.2 - 5.99 inch screen (ideally 5.5 - 5.7 ish), and up to about 79 x 170 x 9 mm. I don't need ultra-high res on the screen though. 1080 HD like the Xperia or even a bit less would be fine.&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **SoC/RAM/ROM:** The Z2 I'm used to has a Snapdragon 801 (MSM8974AB quad Krait 400 2.3 Adreno 330). I'd like to improve on the CPU side if possible as we're a few years on from this generation, but open minded what to go to. 6-8 cores? 64 bit? I'm open minded and this isn't essentsl, I can &quot;make do&quot; if needed. Ram - at least 3GB (2GB isn't enough). Rom - the usual 16 or 32 GB is fine. Graphics - I don't game so open minded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Phone/data bands:** primarily UK but able to handle some international. At minimum, GSM, and for data, GPRS/EDGE/HSDPA/LTE (UMTS 900 (8) / 2100 (1), and LTE 1800 (3) / 2600 (7) / 800 (20). Ideally good choices for EU and USA as well, and ideally a recent version/speed for LTE (Z2 has cat 4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **OS:** can load custom roms + TWRP, with a stable build of some kind (official or otherwise) out there. Not bothered if it has official CM support as long as there's an AOSP/CM style community rom without major issues that's good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Audio:** Good clear audio and reception on calls, whether held to ear or on speakerphone, is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Other features:** most phones of this kind will have the usual WiFi/Bluetooth etc, so I'll skip those. A lot of other details aren't important to me so I've left them out as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Needs SDcard of some kind, a micro or C USB slot, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- IP x5+ rating for use in wet conditions (ideally with a screen that isn't completely hopeless in rain - I've read somewhere that some phones have a screen that detects touch moderately well even in rain), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- decent resilience (gorilla glass or similar, robust build),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- headphone socket that doesn't share with USB (so both can be used together),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- good camera for difficult light conditions (fast focus/good sensitivity is a bonus) + front facing camera, that can do 720HD or better,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- as much GPS capability as it can have (all the networks!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -- Decent size battery/battery life, as I use it a lot for browsing/news feeds etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be buying off EBay, as previously, so models that are readily found 2nd hand online are a good thing. My budget is probably around UK £ 100 - 200, but that's for a good bargain price and for a used phone in good condition up to a year or two old.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'm after several models, to put together a shortlist of up to about 5 - 7. But if there's only 1 or 2 stand-out models, that's fine too. I'm open to reading the specs for more if there are any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="0ef9d685-fc2c-4614-b2a5-a366bfb48675" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:25:51.547" UserId="5255" Text="Aside from the genovation/x-keys specialist keyboards, I am looking for a qwerty keyboard that I can program to shortcuts for software like Photoshop, Sound Forge, Vegas etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need the keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - to be back lit&#xD;&#xA; - to have key caps that can be taken off the board (I'd like to sand off the face and apply a transparent print to it)&#xD;&#xA; - to have software that comes with it (don't have time to use ahk and all that)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would like it (not necessary) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - to be Compact (my laptop is 480mm wide) - something about the same width would be perfect&#xD;&#xA; - silent keys&#xD;&#xA; - carry case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know of the Razer deathstalker, but it doesn't seem I can remove the caps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="0ef9d685-fc2c-4614-b2a5-a366bfb48675" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:25:51.547" UserId="5255" Text="What keyboards have the most programmable keys?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="0ef9d685-fc2c-4614-b2a5-a366bfb48675" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:25:51.547" UserId="5255" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7fdb0015-1707-4088-bcb6-b6a0dcf1022e" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:55:52.653" UserId="5001" Comment="Capitalization / Clarity to title" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV *(through HDMI)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19343" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7fdb0015-1707-4088-bcb6-b6a0dcf1022e" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:55:52.653" UserId="5001" Comment="Capitalization / Clarity to title" Text="Wireless HDMI transmitter / receiver for less than 100€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19344" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="7fdb0015-1707-4088-bcb6-b6a0dcf1022e" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:55:52.653" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 57, 8 edit id of 554" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6518" RevisionGUID="f12073d1-a022-413b-a533-cb67e6020850" CreationDate="2016-12-27T12:59:03.643" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="**I'm looking for a high performance and durable computer to work with. It's primary use is for Statistical Modeling and Analysis.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Likely, I will need to use R, some SQL based programs (SQuirreL, for example), Python for data sets in excess of 2 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not the most computer-hardware oriented person either. If you may offer suggestions on a laptop well-suited for a student entering a Masters or PhD Statistics student, Statistician, or even Data Scientist, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is one of the few posts I've seen publicly discussing this question][1], but if I am going to invest a decent amount of money into something like this, a second opinion makes more sense here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/statistics/comments/2n0doq/best_laptop_computers_for_stats_analysis/?st=ix3ulpsd&amp;sh=2ebfc37d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6541" RevisionGUID="9bd82100-e599-4231-bc77-e6338980bbb0" CreationDate="2016-12-27T17:42:07.947" UserId="975" Text="I have an older Logitech 5.1 speaker system for my computer that uses 3x3.5mm plugs for input. All of my newer computers only have a single 3.5mm output that handles 5.1 + voice. What kind of converter can I use to funnel all three of those speaker inputs into a single output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19347" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6541" RevisionGUID="9bd82100-e599-4231-bc77-e6338980bbb0" CreationDate="2016-12-27T17:42:07.947" UserId="975" Text="Plugging a 3-cable 5.1 speaker system into a single 3.5mm jack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19348" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6541" RevisionGUID="9bd82100-e599-4231-bc77-e6338980bbb0" CreationDate="2016-12-27T17:42:07.947" UserId="975" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19349" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6498" RevisionGUID="28e02604-78fa-4253-8316-3bb5635632ef" CreationDate="2016-12-27T18:35:13.593" UserId="5222" Comment="48" />
  <row Id="19350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6541" RevisionGUID="fb963134-18b3-4779-bf2d-8da261f9b8f3" CreationDate="2016-12-27T18:35:18.687" UserId="975" Comment="Added details requested in comments" Text="I have an older Logitech 5.1 speaker system for my computer that uses 3x3.5mm plugs for input. All of my newer computers only have a single 3.5mm output that handles 5.1 + voice. What kind of converter can I use to funnel all three of those speaker inputs into a single output?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edits based on comments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speaker model is X-540&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to get full 5.1 support but if the best we can do is simply get all the speakers working I'll take that solution too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6542" RevisionGUID="594cb0ac-399d-4b42-a6bc-2a1a5fab92b6" CreationDate="2016-12-27T22:02:56.297" UserId="4523" Text="Top of the line for external sound would be the [Creative X7](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102073&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Official page](http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x7)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19352" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6543" RevisionGUID="efc6f2be-89d3-465a-bd73-dbc2886f4526" CreationDate="2016-12-27T22:18:10.620" UserId="241" Text="If you're looking to purchase new, and want roughly comparable single-precision computing power, I recommend the [MSI Radeon R7 250][1], $75 from Newegg.  It's got about 70% the single-precision speed of the 4870, twice the RAM, and draws half the power.  Note that if you need *double*-precision computing power, this is a bad choice: it's only 20% as powerful as your current card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need double-precision computing power, I recommend you look on Amazon or Ebay for another 4870.  The HD 4000 series had unusually high double-precision performance, and a modern replacement will run you at least $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127763&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19353" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="e99b1c23-6fc1-4fd3-89b6-74bbdb71ac12" CreationDate="2016-12-28T00:03:41.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19354" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6544" RevisionGUID="ee155d44-6317-48bc-9998-3b2c10affe68" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:40:49.470" UserId="5257" Text="I have a somewhat old Dell Precision T7500 desktop with this 64-bit Intel Xeon CPU: [http://ark.intel.com/products/48768][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like this CPU corresponds to this one at cpu-upgrade.com:&#xD;&#xA;[http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been thinking about upgrading the CPU to an Intel i7 CPU, but how can I determine if I need to upgrade the whole motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/48768&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19355" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6544" RevisionGUID="ee155d44-6317-48bc-9998-3b2c10affe68" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:40:49.470" UserId="5257" Text="How to determine if I can just upgrade the CPU or if have to upgrade the whole motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19356" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6544" RevisionGUID="ee155d44-6317-48bc-9998-3b2c10affe68" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:40:49.470" UserId="5257" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19357" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6544" RevisionGUID="d660678d-ae09-436b-870c-9c12898e9acb" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:48:24.560" UserId="5257" Comment="added 539 characters in body" Text="I have a somewhat old Dell Precision T7500 desktop with this 64-bit Intel Xeon CPU: [http://ark.intel.com/products/48768][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been thinking about upgrading this CPU to an Intel i7 CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like this CPU corresponds to this one at cpu-upgrade.com:&#xD;&#xA;[http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the right side of above page at cpu-upgrade.com is a link to a &quot;Intel X58 Express&quot; page (under &quot;Intel Xeon E5645 chipset compatibility&quot;). This link leads to this page: &#xD;&#xA;[http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/X58_Express.html][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Above page lists some i7 CPU's as compatible with the chipset on this motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two questions I wanted to ask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is this information all I need to determine which version of the i7&#xD;&#xA;    CPU I could upgrade to?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If not, how can I determine if I need to replace the entire&#xD;&#xA;    motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ark.intel.com/products/48768&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/X58_Express.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6545" RevisionGUID="b0ecd091-ce29-4228-9cfd-d03ceaa12a41" CreationDate="2016-12-28T04:41:46.483" UserId="531" Text="Assuming you have any basic level of competence, the hardware on most of these is a bit... naff, running lower end mips or arm processors, tied up with a custom ASIC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About [200usd would get you something][1] with significantly more flexibility, 4 ethernet ports and such. It might even be more powerful, but I haven't really found documentation on what these run. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's similar boxen on amazon according to [ars technica, who have run extensive tests on it][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for OSes are concerned, I'd go with [pfsense][2] - its actively updated, bsd based and pretty well documented, understood. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's no annual fee (though pfsense has their own hardware and support program). You're essentially paying a fee for *updates* anyway unless you have a pretty darned good support contract.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-QOTOM-Mini-PC-Q310G4-with-4-Gigabit-Ethernet-Ports-using-pfsense-as-small-router-firewall/32716817184.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6546" RevisionGUID="3d9b1f96-b3af-4db3-947d-8f9c3290cf37" CreationDate="2016-12-28T05:23:45.353" UserId="5258" Text="Sockets are the answer.  Generally, modern intel CPUs use sockets in the LGA 11xx format.  I don't know what your CPU uses for it's socket, but before you ask: no, you cannot get socket adapters for cpus.  If the sockets aren't compatible, you need a new motherboard, and maybe more.&#xA;&#xA;The socket type should be silkscreened onto the motherboard somewhere." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6548" RevisionGUID="2d110041-076e-4d7e-bb75-838d87af7ee9" CreationDate="2016-12-28T05:38:48.907" UserId="5258" Text="Buy Apple EarPods.  They are very loud, have volume up/down and pause buttons built in, and a microphone.  My first pair lasted me years.  They are $30 new I think and have great sound quality for the price.  Again, it took me 4 years for the wires in them to come loose and unreliable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6546" RevisionGUID="72763f86-7c05-46ee-a69b-a8f5282972a4" CreationDate="2016-12-28T05:40:52.680" UserId="5258" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="Sockets are the answer.  Generally, modern intel CPUs use sockets in the LGA 11xx format.  I don't know what your CPU uses for it's socket, but before you ask: no, you cannot get socket adapters for cpus.  If the sockets aren't compatible, you need a new motherboard, and maybe more.&#xA;&#xA;The socket type should be silkscreened onto the motherboard somewhere.&#xA;&#xA;Read the top comment on this answer for a bit more info." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6548" RevisionGUID="ee77da6d-674c-40c2-bdf7-18f09c73f984" CreationDate="2016-12-28T16:57:48.887" UserId="5258" Comment="added 322 characters in body" Text="Buy Apple [EarPods][1].  They are very loud, have volume up/down and pause buttons built in, and a microphone.  My first pair lasted me years.  They are $30 new I think and have great sound quality for the price.  Again, it took me 4 years for the wires in them to come loose and unreliable.&#xA;&#xA;The [don't have active noise cancellation][2], but do block out noise pretty well regardless (from my experience)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD827LL/A/earpods-with-35-mm-headphone-plug&#xA;  [2]: http://www.apple.com/shop/question/answers/iphone/do-the-new-airpods-have-noise-canceling/QPXCC94CAJP2XUAU2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19364" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6544" RevisionGUID="ebc26d30-4080-43d4-a870-d63c610aa9ff" CreationDate="2016-12-28T18:36:01.913" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6549" RevisionGUID="20d0037c-8e59-4aa4-ad6b-2674f22d3744" CreationDate="2016-12-28T21:21:44.510" UserId="4963" Text="The model of the TV I've got is kind of old, but is pretty big and I'd like to watch movies on it, played from the computer. I'm not a specialist, but does any of you guys have any experience with this situation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6549" RevisionGUID="20d0037c-8e59-4aa4-ad6b-2674f22d3744" CreationDate="2016-12-28T21:21:44.510" UserId="4963" Text="My TV only has SCART connector, how can I hook it to my computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19368" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6549" RevisionGUID="20d0037c-8e59-4aa4-ad6b-2674f22d3744" CreationDate="2016-12-28T21:21:44.510" UserId="4963" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6550" RevisionGUID="22f55cde-055a-4edf-a36d-7bad6970e4d3" CreationDate="2016-12-28T21:30:41.867" UserId="3980" Text="You could use a HDMI to SCART converter like [this one][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operation is fairly simple, you take the HDMI output from your computer and plug it into the HDMI input on the converter, then plug your TV's SCART cable into the SCART output on the converter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since your computer has a VGA output, add a VGA to HDMI converter like [this one.][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VGA output -&gt; VGA to HDMI converter -&gt; SCART Converter -&gt; TV input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will probably need to match the output resolution with the resolution of your TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-HDMI-SCART-Converter-Downscaler/dp/B00NX0KVLC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482960353&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi%20to%20scart%20converter&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Gold-Plated-Video-Converter-Micro-USB/dp/B00NBUTHJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482960561&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=vga%20to%20hdmi&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19370" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="34b5b5fa-911d-499c-b26f-324e4267e931" CreationDate="2016-12-28T22:12:46.907" UserId="5255" Comment="added 32 characters in body, for more clarification" Text="Aside from the genovation/x-keys specialist keyboards, I am looking for a qwerty keyboard that I can program to shortcuts for software like Photoshop, Sound Forge, Vegas etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd need the keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - to be back lit&#xD;&#xA; - to have key caps that can be taken off the board (I'd like to sand off the face and apply a transparent print to it)&#xD;&#xA; - to have software that comes with it (don't have time to use ahk and all that)&#xD;&#xA; - [edit] be used as a second keyboard without it interfering with my laptop keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would like it (not necessary) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - to be Compact (my laptop is 480mm wide) - something about the same width would be perfect&#xD;&#xA; - silent keys&#xD;&#xA; - carry case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know of the Razer deathstalker, but it doesn't seem I can remove the caps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[edit] My budget is upto £100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19371" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4340" RevisionGUID="a451205e-87d5-4c5c-bdeb-15c921b8e70a" CreationDate="2016-12-28T22:23:17.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6542" RevisionGUID="40d3fcab-a946-4fa4-a499-6e2ca62ff3c4" CreationDate="2016-12-28T23:33:48.920" UserId="4523" Comment="added 352 characters in body" Text="Top of the line for external sound would be the [Creative X7](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102073&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Official page](http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x7)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also:  [3.5mm to RCA adapter](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021056&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=3.5mm_to_RCA-_-82-021-056-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And in case you need the reverse of that adapter:  [RCA female to 3.5mm adapter](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200418&amp;cm_re=RCA_female_to_3.5mm-_-12-200-418-_-Product)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="56f1a7b3-fdf6-4a5a-86dc-0618c68a4b92" CreationDate="2016-12-28T23:55:57.737" UserId="2393" Text="I have been moving my DVD collection to a 2 TB external hard drive, and I was wondering what my options are for viewing the media.  I am not particularly interested in streaming the content since my internet is not great, but I would like to be able to view the shows and movies on my main TV.  One of the most important things is that I want the media to be organized nicely.  So, thumbnails, descriptions (and other meta data), and TV shows ordered my season and episode. A remote would also be nice, but if it can be controlled from an android phone that would be okay too.  For the ports HDMI and USB 3.0 are optimal.  Is there something that is rather inexpensive ($100 or less) that can do this? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="56f1a7b3-fdf6-4a5a-86dc-0618c68a4b92" CreationDate="2016-12-28T23:55:57.737" UserId="2393" Text="Device to view TV shows and movies stored on a hard drive in an organized manner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="56f1a7b3-fdf6-4a5a-86dc-0618c68a4b92" CreationDate="2016-12-28T23:55:57.737" UserId="2393" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6552" RevisionGUID="7da01e0e-82ee-4624-afdc-fcd947d56bb7" CreationDate="2016-12-29T00:14:07.940" UserId="5262" Text="Try a Nvidia GeForce 1050. It's about [$110 on Amazon][1] and good enough for your needs with that machine. Yes, it's Nvidia, but you don't need to replace an AMD with an AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything more powerful than this, you should just consider upgrading your whole computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10500A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482970359&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=1050%20graphics%20card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6553" RevisionGUID="6238e311-fbca-495e-b939-eda8a0c3b2fb" CreationDate="2016-12-29T00:16:41.920" UserId="425" Text="Perhaps it is not what you really wants, but the [palette gear solution](https://palettegear.com/how_it_works) looks very good in terms of customability and compatibility with Adobe products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With such a device you can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Keep your keyboard / mouse for the normal use&#xD;&#xA;* have sliders, potentiometers or butons in the order you want&#xD;&#xA;* configure each controls to your needs and per software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not try it myself but a French magazine tried and they had a good feedback about it (and this is my feeling as well).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6553" RevisionGUID="8295a994-f5ec-4c0f-8875-918841aa2ee6" CreationDate="2016-12-29T00:35:21.143" UserId="425" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Perhaps it is not what you really wants, but the [palette gear solution](https://palettegear.com/how_it_works) looks very good in terms of customability and compatibility with Adobe products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With such a device you can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Keep your keyboard / mouse for the normal use&#xD;&#xA;* have sliders, potentiometers or buttons in the order you want&#xD;&#xA;* configure each controls to your needs and per software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not try it myself but a French magazine tried and they had a good feedback about it (and this is my feeling as well).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6554" RevisionGUID="6824aafe-7dde-4ec1-90da-5c1058a75bf2" CreationDate="2016-12-29T02:13:06.537" UserId="5263" Text="I have less than $1K as budget for my project.My project is predicting drug target interaction. I am going to use GPU on vector multiplication of visible layer and   neurons of hidden layer. I have 1007 drugs and 881 substructure of that drug  and 2000 neuons on no. of hidden layer. What I have to do is take one drug and provide its 881 substructures as input and multiply each values to 2000 neorons of one hidden layer again and again. When I did this from normal laptop just by using 200 drugs It took me 7 days. So I am thinking of using GPU and reducing time. &#xD;&#xA;SO please suggest what type of GPU do I need. Thank You." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19380" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6554" RevisionGUID="6824aafe-7dde-4ec1-90da-5c1058a75bf2" CreationDate="2016-12-29T02:13:06.537" UserId="5263" Text="Which GPU Should I buy for Deep Learning Project" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19381" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6554" RevisionGUID="6824aafe-7dde-4ec1-90da-5c1058a75bf2" CreationDate="2016-12-29T02:13:06.537" UserId="5263" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19386" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6556" RevisionGUID="c6341006-e830-4655-9e62-ed934079cfba" CreationDate="2016-12-29T06:28:57.693" UserId="5265" Text="I am building my Deep Learning machine at home. My dilemma is whether to buy a Titan X Pascal or a GTX 1080 (in which case I can buy 2 extra monitors). So my question is what things I will not be able to do on a 1080 that I can do in a Titan X?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19387" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6556" RevisionGUID="c6341006-e830-4655-9e62-ed934079cfba" CreationDate="2016-12-29T06:28:57.693" UserId="5265" Text="GTX 1080 or Titan X Pascal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19388" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6556" RevisionGUID="c6341006-e830-4655-9e62-ed934079cfba" CreationDate="2016-12-29T06:28:57.693" UserId="5265" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6541" RevisionGUID="d471889b-7028-4844-9061-f1b6c8226f95" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:14:58.300" UserId="975" Comment="Clarified based on comments" Text="I have an older Logitech 5.1 speaker system for my computer that uses 3x3.5mm plugs for input. All of my newer computers only have a single 3.5mm output &lt;strike&gt;that handles 5.1 + voice&lt;/strike&gt; (**apparently I was mistaken, this is not possible**). What kind of converter can I use to funnel all three of those speaker inputs into a single output?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edits based on comments:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Speaker model is X-540&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like to get full 5.1 support with decent quality audio, but if the best we can do within budget is simply get all the speakers working I'll take that solution too.&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is around $100 but less is always better&#xD;&#xA; - The speakers will be shared via KVM among 3-4 computers, all with 5.1 support via USB but none with optical/coax" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6558" RevisionGUID="fcc3aaa6-db8a-4204-adf5-ed85c9051e5d" CreationDate="2016-12-29T16:46:29.367" UserId="273" Text="The other answer's suggestion is a _bit expensive_ for my taste (with several hundred dollar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I can recommend the soundcard I'm using myself to power my 5.1 speaker system. However you don't really need all the features so instead I'm gonna recommend the functionally largely equivalent, but cheaper version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##The ASUS Xonar U5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On [Amazon.com][1] and [on the official website.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the relevant I/O it features 3x 3.5mm jack output for your speakers as well as S/PDIF. The audio processor seems to be just slightly worse than that of my card but should still do a good job. Not that I don't know whether Dolby Live (a driver technology to dolby digital encode the system audio on the fly so you can squeeze the data into the bandwith limit) is a thing for the U5 so you may not be able to use more than two speakers over SPDIF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS compatibility is a given and it will work with all Windows and OS X / macOS versions (at least down to Win7).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're feeling fancy you could also go with the [Xonar U7][3] however then you'd have to look out for the fact that left and right have RCA instead of 3.5mm jack output (but the bundled software seems to be better with the U7).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MI8IDRE/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Sound-Cards/Xonar_U5/overview/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7QA9E0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19395" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="9b559baa-0370-4685-b014-e568d6f9bba0" CreationDate="2016-12-29T16:54:05.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19413" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6554" RevisionGUID="39919bec-23b2-40b5-a641-753f1ce9ccd6" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:05:51.160" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19414" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6556" RevisionGUID="78e60b73-e3b4-4303-ac57-99f273d3ab26" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:06:09.647" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6563" RevisionGUID="cd2d7748-4be5-4409-b1d0-413696ea4b48" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:05:05.643" UserId="1808" Text="With nvidia, manufacturers makes small changes to the original design : this is things like the clock speed or the memory size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a gtx nvidia card based on the pascal micro‑architecture : this means I want :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* an underclocked GeForce 1080 which consumes less than 160W&#xD;&#xA;* **Or** a Geforce 1070 which uses GDDR5x memory." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19417" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6563" RevisionGUID="cd2d7748-4be5-4409-b1d0-413696ea4b48" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:05:05.643" UserId="1808" Text="nvidia graphic card with GDDR5x and less than 160W power consumption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19418" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6563" RevisionGUID="cd2d7748-4be5-4409-b1d0-413696ea4b48" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:05:05.643" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19419" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6563" RevisionGUID="e6965a5f-c1d8-4c84-8b64-bf9ce1eec2b5" CreationDate="2016-12-29T23:14:18.993" UserId="1808" Comment="edited title" Text="pascal based nvidia graphic card with GDDR5x and less than 160W power consumption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6564" RevisionGUID="9a7be72c-5701-41d8-b567-7b54b9700449" CreationDate="2016-12-30T01:45:07.380" UserId="5262" Text="&lt;h2&gt;HD Radeon RX 460 is the way better option.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since an AMD solution was explicitly requested for technical reasons, how about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150780&quot;&gt;XFX HD Radeon RX 460 for $99&lt;/a&gt;? It's significantly better than the R7 250 and not much more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="1335c4e6-af4a-41d7-9fd3-d6f664bfcaa5" CreationDate="2016-12-30T03:32:46.563" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for an indoor camera with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- night vision &#xD;&#xA;- no Internet access needed &#xD;&#xA;- save video (e.g. on an SD card)&#xD;&#xA;- at least 480p&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't need to have a microphone but it is ok if it has one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a hard threshold on the price but below 100 USD sounds reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case: I am performing a study on sleep positions with several human subjects. Understandably, they want privacy, which an Internet access cannot guarantee.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found many cameras satisfying all requirements except the no Internet requirement, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [YI Dome Camera Pan/Tilt/Zoom Wireless IP Security Surveillance System 720p HD Night Vision (US Edition)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CW4BG4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;-  [FDT 720P HD WiFi Pan/Tilt IP Camera](https://www.amazon.com/FDT-Megapixel-Wireless-Security-Nightvision/dp/B01GF5M42A/ref=zg_bs_524136_36?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Zmodo 720p HD WiFi Wireless Smart Security Camera Two-Way Audio](https://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-Wireless-Security-Camera-Two-Way/dp/B01HH3UWU0/ref=zg_bs_524136_31?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related but different: [Security camera that doesn't use a third party](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2670/40)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19423" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="1335c4e6-af4a-41d7-9fd3-d6f664bfcaa5" CreationDate="2016-12-30T03:32:46.563" UserId="40" Text="Indoor camera with night vision and no Internet access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19424" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="1335c4e6-af4a-41d7-9fd3-d6f664bfcaa5" CreationDate="2016-12-30T03:32:46.563" UserId="40" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19429" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6569" RevisionGUID="e419681c-3b8d-4b26-8df3-11680cd30158" CreationDate="2016-12-30T07:19:37.193" UserId="3980" Text="I found a *dash cam* that fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[AUKEY Dash Cam, Full HD 1080P, 170° Wide Angle Lens, Night Vision, Car Dashboard Camera][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sells for $90 on Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Supports recording resolutions of: 1080p 30fps, 720p 30/60fps, 480p**&#xD;&#xA; - **No wifi or internet connection**&#xD;&#xA; - **Saves to a MicroSD card (up to 128GB)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Good night vision capaiblity (according to product description and &quot;Verified Purchase&quot; reviews)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Below 100 USD (90 USD)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can record continuously (loop/overwrite) or do timelapses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wide FOV (170 degrees)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screws on to a suction cup or adhesive mount (since it is a dash cam)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is only USB powered, meaning that you might need a USB power brick like &#xD;&#xA;[this][2]. Also, if you want to record in 1080p for 10 or so hours, I would recommend a SD card with a capacity of at least 64GB. Because 1080p is usually recorded at a bitrate of 8-12 Mb/s, meaning that 10 hours of video with a 12Mb/s bit rate is going to use 54GB of space. However, that 54GB number is just an approximation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-1080P-Vision-Dashboard-Camera/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483081235&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=night%20vision%20dash%20cam&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B01LCDJ7LG/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483082366&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb%20charger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19430" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6569" RevisionGUID="3b3206d0-23a5-4367-966c-30258171fa50" CreationDate="2016-12-30T07:25:17.360" UserId="3980" Comment="deleted 198 characters in body" Text="I found a *dash cam* that fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[AUKEY Dash Cam, Full HD 1080P, 170° Wide Angle Lens, Night Vision, Car Dashboard Camera][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sells for $90 on Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Supports recording resolutions of: 1080p 30fps, 720p 30/60fps, 480p**&#xD;&#xA; - **No wifi or internet connection**&#xD;&#xA; - **Saves to a MicroSD card (up to 128GB)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Good night vision capaiblity (according to product description and &quot;Verified Purchase&quot; reviews)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Below 100 USD (90 USD)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can record continuously (loop/overwrite) or do timelapses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wide FOV (170 degrees)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screws on to a suction cup or adhesive mount (since it is a dash cam)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is only USB powered, meaning that you might need a USB power brick like &#xD;&#xA;[this][2]. Also, if you want to record in 1080p for 10 or so hours, I would recommend a SD card with a capacity of at least 64GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-1080P-Vision-Dashboard-Camera/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483081235&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=night%20vision%20dash%20cam&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B01LCDJ7LG/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483082366&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb%20charger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19434" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="e58aa57f-bec1-408c-9e25-99cfed89a82a" CreationDate="2016-12-30T15:07:20.140" UserId="40" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an indoor camera with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- night vision (i.e. can see in a 100% dark room)&#xD;&#xA;- no Internet access needed &#xD;&#xA;- save video (e.g. on an SD card)&#xD;&#xA;- at least 480p&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't need to have a microphone but it is ok if it has one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a hard threshold on the price but below 100 USD sounds reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case: I am performing a study on sleep positions with several human subjects. Understandably, they want privacy, which an Internet access cannot guarantee.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found many cameras satisfying all requirements except the no Internet requirement, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [YI Dome Camera Pan/Tilt/Zoom Wireless IP Security Surveillance System 720p HD Night Vision (US Edition)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CW4BG4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;-  [FDT 720P HD WiFi Pan/Tilt IP Camera](https://www.amazon.com/FDT-Megapixel-Wireless-Security-Nightvision/dp/B01GF5M42A/ref=zg_bs_524136_36?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Zmodo 720p HD WiFi Wireless Smart Security Camera Two-Way Audio](https://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-Wireless-Security-Camera-Two-Way/dp/B01HH3UWU0/ref=zg_bs_524136_31?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related but different: [Security camera that doesn't use a third party](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2670/40)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19435" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6571" RevisionGUID="575df17e-60ce-4655-97d1-3677d198d9c8" CreationDate="2016-12-30T15:21:44.680" UserId="1375" Text="I'm new to speaker amplifiers and have been reading up on them. Basically, I need an amp that preferably can deliver about 30 wattsx2 at 6 ohms, has treble&amp;bass controls, and has a nice sound quality. Budget tops out at about 50 dollars if it's really worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's any other things you think are important for such an amp, feel free to mention them and look for an amp with that too. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19436" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6571" RevisionGUID="575df17e-60ce-4655-97d1-3677d198d9c8" CreationDate="2016-12-30T15:21:44.680" UserId="1375" Text="Good amp for bookshelf 6 ohm speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19437" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6571" RevisionGUID="575df17e-60ce-4655-97d1-3677d198d9c8" CreationDate="2016-12-30T15:21:44.680" UserId="1375" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19445" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="a4d8bd45-eb5b-4dff-86d7-c7b7bee68add" CreationDate="2016-12-31T01:14:22.587" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[2422],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19446" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="474180a5-45ea-401a-be26-60ea6dc3cf1f" CreationDate="2016-12-31T01:14:28.893" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2422/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-multiple-virtual-lans" />
  <row Id="19448" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="474180a5-45ea-401a-be26-60ea6dc3cf1f" CreationDate="2016-12-31T01:14:28.893" UserId="8" Comment="from http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-multiple-vlans" />
  <row Id="19449" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="1706" RevisionGUID="4cec9ffe-a34f-4982-aa43-427672a9fc99" CreationDate="2016-12-31T01:14:28.893" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="da1c805a-7511-43b4-8532-99f05f2f5ba5" CreationDate="2017-01-01T02:33:40.283" UserId="578" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. Systems equipped with a Core m processor (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) should be avoided if at all possible.&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, discrete GPU are pluses.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19460" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="da1c805a-7511-43b4-8532-99f05f2f5ba5" CreationDate="2017-01-01T02:33:40.283" UserId="578" Text="Compact, lightweight detachable laptop with high sustained performance and long battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19461" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="da1c805a-7511-43b4-8532-99f05f2f5ba5" CreationDate="2017-01-01T02:33:40.283" UserId="578" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;detachable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="a065342d-3302-4b67-95af-de4ae73de119" CreationDate="2017-01-01T02:38:58.753" UserId="578" Comment="added 59 characters in body; added 5 characters in body; added 81 characters in body; added 4 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) should be avoided if at all possible.&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements and the Core processor requirement are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="35361a89-4bc5-4410-9344-4d4248b16996" CreationDate="2017-01-01T03:01:54.903" UserId="578" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) should be avoided if at all possible.&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements and the Core processor requirement are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="4cc022d3-fb27-4576-a763-267d1b8aea6f" CreationDate="2017-01-01T03:10:03.427" UserId="578" Comment="added 284 characters in body; deleted 105 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements and the Core processor requirement are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19466" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="a938616e-15c8-42c0-a465-618be2d1db02" CreationDate="2017-01-01T03:13:36.943" UserId="578" Comment="added 42 characters in body; added 104 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD][1] ($1900, $1650 on sale as of this writing) seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements and the Core processor requirement are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="aac08510-b451-4200-b1ee-ae0b7a0f5260" CreationDate="2017-01-01T03:34:23.993" UserId="578" Comment="added 17 characters in body; deleted 6 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- &lt;strike&gt;The keyboard must be more than a mere cover, allowing for a tent mode (the Surface Pro 4 with Type Cover does not qualify).&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD][1] ($1900, $1650 on sale as of this writing) seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The detachable keyboard and Core processor requirements are the only ones that are completely non-negotiable; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="a90e9e03-a0ed-46f2-a91a-e7a66c51476a" CreationDate="2017-01-01T06:46:40.397" UserId="578" Comment="deleted 50 characters in body; added 5 characters in body; added 2 characters in body; deleted 16 characters in body; added 6 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz after a few minutes of load is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours under a typical light load such as Web browsing or video playback.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Book with Core i5 + dGPU and 256GB SSD][1] ($1900, $1650 on sale as of this writing) seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that the size and weight may be too much and the tablet-only battery life is underwhelming at only four hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The detachable keyboard and sustained performance requirements are the only ones that are truly mandatory; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="14035b6f-4b69-4c78-a301-a95c8f3ea8d7" CreationDate="2017-01-01T15:21:12.543" UserId="578" Comment="deleted 121 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a laptop to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz after a few minutes of load is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours under a typical light load such as Web browsing or video playback.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Pro with Core i7 and 256GB SSD][1] ($1600) seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that it may be a bit too heavy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The detachable keyboard and sustained performance requirements are the only ones that are truly mandatory; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19473" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="017e23db-ecba-413a-b4c0-5a40cef761a0" CreationDate="2017-01-01T15:41:43.983" UserId="578" Comment="added 175 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 6 characters in body; deleted 8 characters in body; added 8 characters in body; added 2 characters in body; added 10 characters in body" Text="We're in the market for a Windows laptop or tablet to replace Father's *ancient* (nine years old!) desktop but we have some very stringent requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If the device is a laptop, the (touch) display **must** be detachable from the keyboard. A 2-in-1 laptop with a display that merely folds back does **not** meet this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;- If the device is a tablet, it **must** have a kickstand and support a keyboard accessory that attaches directly to the tablet.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should be lightweight and reasonably compact, preferably with a display between 11&quot; and 12.5&quot; in size and a tablet-only (keyboard detached) weight of no more than about 1.0-1.2 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;- The system should have good sustained performance. A Core i3/i5/i7 processor (type U) is preferable; systems equipped with an Atom processor do **not** meet this requirement, and Core m processors (type Y, e.g. m5-6Y54) are less than ideal.&#xD;&#xA;    - I may be willing to settle for Core m, but only if the processor maintains reasonable clock speeds under continuous load (e.g. throttling down to something like 1.2 GHz after a few minutes of load is not acceptable).&#xD;&#xA;- The tablet-only battery life should be at least six hours under a typical light load such as Web browsing or video playback.&#xD;&#xA;- 250 GB+ storage capacity, active pen input, and discrete GPU are pluses, but are by no means necessary.&#xD;&#xA;- Price should be no more than US$2000 new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Surface Pro 4 with Core i7, 8GB RAM, and 256GB SSD][1] ($1600) seems to fit these requirements best, but I'm concerned that it may be a bit too heavy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? The first two requirements and the sustained performance requirement are the only ones that are truly mandatory; some compromises elsewhere may be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Surface-Book/productID.5072642200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19474" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="017e23db-ecba-413a-b4c0-5a40cef761a0" CreationDate="2017-01-01T15:41:43.983" UserId="578" Comment="added 175 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 6 characters in body; deleted 8 characters in body; added 8 characters in body; added 2 characters in body; added 10 characters in body" Text="Compact, lightweight detachable laptop (or Windows tablet with keyboard accessory) with high sustained performance and long battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19475" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6575" RevisionGUID="017e23db-ecba-413a-b4c0-5a40cef761a0" CreationDate="2017-01-01T15:41:43.983" UserId="578" Comment="added 175 characters in body; edited tags; edited title; added 6 characters in body; deleted 8 characters in body; added 8 characters in body; added 2 characters in body; added 10 characters in body" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;detachable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="199f821b-79d2-481f-8370-f8b631797395" CreationDate="2017-01-02T15:47:09.417" UserId="1249" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a non-conforming motherboard that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I 'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, this is my fallback option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19492" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="199f821b-79d2-481f-8370-f8b631797395" CreationDate="2017-01-02T15:47:09.417" UserId="1249" Text="Mid/high end graphic card with no power draw from PCIe slot (6/8pin only)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19493" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="199f821b-79d2-481f-8370-f8b631797395" CreationDate="2017-01-02T15:47:09.417" UserId="1249" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19494" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="39fff9b0-fe97-4f29-b8f7-79e6613f58c5" CreationDate="2017-01-02T17:26:31.953" UserId="8" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a non-conforming motherboard (Gigabyte GA-H81TN) that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, this is my fallback option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="14d1c464-e17b-4286-9b41-32ff48b0bb0d" CreationDate="2017-01-02T17:43:49.033" UserId="1249" Comment="added 853 characters in body" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a non-conforming motherboard that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, this is my fallback option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;//edit: Description of my system for those who are curious. The system is Thin-mini-ITX and as such it's not supposed to support any graphic card. Board is [Gigabyte GA-H81TN][1]. As Thin specs call for, this board is powered by external 19V supply and all the ATX voltages required by PCIe slot are derived by onboard regulator. The 25W limit is the limit of this regulator which is part of the board and not replaceable. I also have Dell DA-2 12V/18A brick to provide 12V to the card via PEG, similarly to [external gpu via thunderbolt hack][2]. I know that with only 4 lanes the performance won't be stellar, and the very point of a Thin system is to be very small - but I want to give it a try just for kicks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4752&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://odd-one-out.serek.eu/thunderbolt-2-egpu-setup-using-akitio-thunder2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="cd950a5c-252b-439e-b530-5bf30a4c2001" CreationDate="2017-01-02T17:48:07.870" UserId="1249" Comment="added 853 characters in body" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a non-conforming motherboard that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, this is my fallback option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Description of my system for those who are curious: It's a Thin-mini-ITX and as such it's not supposed to support any graphic card. Board is [Gigabyte GA-H81TN][1]. As Thin specs call for, this board is powered by external 19V supply and all the ATX voltages required by PCIe slot are derived by onboard regulator. The 25W limit is the limit of this regulator which is part of the board and not replaceable. I also have Dell DA-2 12V/18A brick to provide 12V to the card via PEG, similarly to [external gpu via thunderbolt hack][2]. I know that with only 4 lanes the performance won't be stellar, and the very point of a Thin system is to be very small - but I want to give it a try just for kicks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4752&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://odd-one-out.serek.eu/thunderbolt-2-egpu-setup-using-akitio-thunder2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="9040d701-1f92-48d5-991a-a6b825d01433" CreationDate="2017-01-02T17:55:37.530" UserId="1249" Comment="added 178 characters in body" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a non-conforming motherboard that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, I consider using it as a fallback option in case such card doesn't exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Description of my system for those who are curious: It's a Thin-mini-ITX and as such it's not supposed to support any graphic card. Board is [Gigabyte GA-H81TN][1]. As Thin specs call for, this board is powered by external 19V supply and all the ATX voltages required by PCIe slot are derived by onboard regulator. The 25W limit is the limit of this regulator which is part of the board and not replaceable. I also have 200W Dell DA-2 12V/18A brick to provide 12V to the card via PEG, similarly to [external gpu via thunderbolt hack][2]. I know that with only 4 lanes the performance won't be stellar, and the very point of a Thin system is to be very small - but I want to give it a try just for kicks. There is no chasis, as it's just one board so it sits on the desk on an insulating mat, which means that there are really no limits on the card except from PCIe power draw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4752&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://odd-one-out.serek.eu/thunderbolt-2-egpu-setup-using-akitio-thunder2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19500" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6581" RevisionGUID="aa28cdb7-0ef9-4b0a-8e5a-af750def2c11" CreationDate="2017-01-03T00:13:28.600" UserId="5294" Text="I have an ancient hard drive from an old HP laptop. I haven't looked at it in years. But now I want to get the old data off that hard drive. I have been to all of my local electronics shops but none of them sell an adapter that fits my hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a SATA-like adapter that will allow me to pull my old data off via USB or something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some specs from the Model number:&#xD;&#xA;General Product Information:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer: Fujitsu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer Website: www.Fujitsu.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer Part No: MHV2120BH&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product Type: Internal Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage Capacity: 120GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Spindle Speed: 5400RPM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive Interface: SATA 1.5Gbps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Form Factor: 2.5Inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cache: 8MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Holding the hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![FemalePiece][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Picture of the female piece. This is what I pulled the hard drive out of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgSaA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1YzL.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19501" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6581" RevisionGUID="aa28cdb7-0ef9-4b0a-8e5a-af750def2c11" CreationDate="2017-01-03T00:13:28.600" UserId="5294" Text="What hard drive connector is this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19502" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6581" RevisionGUID="aa28cdb7-0ef9-4b0a-8e5a-af750def2c11" CreationDate="2017-01-03T00:13:28.600" UserId="5294" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6582" RevisionGUID="3bef9482-6444-41df-8dda-8ffd47f2ed42" CreationDate="2017-01-03T01:01:06.197" UserId="8" Text="The [technical document](http://www.fujitsu.com/downloads/COMP/fcpa/hdd/discontinued/MHV2xxxBH_Install.pdf) for this drive says it's a standard SATA connector; 15 power pins P1-15 and 7 signal pins S1-7. For this, you'd need a standard double SATA signal/power connector; [something like this, perhaps](https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Splitter-Female-Power-Cable/dp/B00M3UTFTM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**However**, something about your pictures looks off. Look at the pictures of the cable I linked to above, in particular this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SATA cable, showing male and female connectors](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connectors in this image don't match up with the images you posted of your own drive. As NZKShatriya [mentioned in a comment](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6581/what-hard-drive-connector-is-this#comment10569_6581), I suspect that HP have modified the connector on the drive so that you are forced to use their products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you still have the old HP laptop, your best shot at getting the data off the drive is to reinstall the drive, and use the laptop to transfer data to a more modern, more widely compatible solution (like a USB stick; you could fit the entire contents of that drive onto a 128 GB USB stick like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0)). If that fails, you're stuck with contacting HP and asking them how to get your data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6582" RevisionGUID="22cc7c07-ec4b-42dc-8bb9-5d90a8bef615" CreationDate="2017-01-03T01:11:21.660" UserId="8" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="The [technical document](http://www.fujitsu.com/downloads/COMP/fcpa/hdd/discontinued/MHV2xxxBH_Install.pdf) (page 3-10, which is the tenth page of that PDF) for this drive says it's a standard SATA connector; 15 power pins P1-15 and 7 signal pins S1-7. For this, you'd need a standard double SATA signal/power connector; [something like this, perhaps](https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Splitter-Female-Power-Cable/dp/B00M3UTFTM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**However**, something about your pictures looks off. Look at the pictures of the cable I linked to above, in particular this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SATA cable, showing male and female connectors](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connectors in this image don't match up with the images you posted of your own drive. As NZKShatriya [mentioned in a comment](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6581/what-hard-drive-connector-is-this#comment10569_6581), I suspect that HP have modified the connector on the drive so that you are forced to use their products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you still have the old HP laptop, your best shot at getting the data off the drive is to reinstall the drive, and use the laptop to transfer data to a more modern, more widely compatible solution (like a USB stick; you could fit the entire contents of that drive onto a 128 GB USB stick like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0)). If that fails, you're stuck with contacting HP and asking them how to get your data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6583" RevisionGUID="cd203d4e-58a0-4b87-9c57-61395504cd9e" CreationDate="2017-01-03T04:34:49.763" UserId="4523" Text="I originally posted [this article on:  HP laptop/MHV2120BH HDD](http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r23090159-hard-drive-HP-Pavilion-laptop-bizare-SATA-disk-resolved) as a comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It turns out that the correct connection is/was always there.  There was an adapter fitted over the SATA connector, for use with HPs internal connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am re-posting as an answer in order for others to find more easily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6585" RevisionGUID="c6b4b52a-a2e8-4489-ab4b-578f300ccca8" CreationDate="2017-01-03T10:51:49.890" UserId="5295" Text="I'm currently looking for a new monitor for gaming and watching movies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The resolution should be WQHD (2560x1440) or WQXGA (2560x1600) as I fear that with a 4k monitor my  GTX1070 graphics card would hit the limit on newer games to soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size should be between 24&quot; and 27&quot;. I don't have enough space on my desk for a bigger or ultra wide screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor should have an IPS panel, because I usually lie on my bed when watching movies. So the viewing angles of TN panels would be problematic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an specific requirements for the refresh rate. 60Hz will be enough, but more wouldn't hurt either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor must have at least 2 connectors. One HDMI and one Display Port would be optimal, but an other configuration shouldn't be a problem with adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I don't do any image or video editing, I have no special requirements for the color space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;G-Sync sound nice, but as I usually don't play many fast paced games, it isn't a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also integrated speakers would be a plus, but are not necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My biggest concern:&#xD;&#xA;For basically every monitor I've look at so far, there are lots of reviews (on Amazon) from customers that have problems with backlight bleeding or uneven backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;Are there any ways of reducing the chance to get a monitor with these problems, or monitors that fit my requirements and are known to rarely have these problems?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price limit is 900 €.&#xD;&#xA;But if there are offers for slightly more, that guarantee not backlight bleeding and no dead pixels that might be ok too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Previously there was a hardware dealer who offered a zero backlight bleeding and zero dead pixel guarantee for an additional 200 €, but unfortunately that dealer went out of business some time ago, and I haven't found an other one with such an offer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6585" RevisionGUID="c6b4b52a-a2e8-4489-ab4b-578f300ccca8" CreationDate="2017-01-03T10:51:49.890" UserId="5295" Text="1440p (WQHD) monitor with an IPS panel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6585" RevisionGUID="c6b4b52a-a2e8-4489-ab4b-578f300ccca8" CreationDate="2017-01-03T10:51:49.890" UserId="5295" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="6dfdd30c-e800-4237-abd5-d90e39d18836" CreationDate="2017-01-03T12:26:37.110" UserId="5296" Text="By &quot;work&quot;, I mean recognizing `clicks`, `taps`, `multi-finger clicks`, `multi-finger taps`, `simultaneous horizontal and vertical scroll using 2 fingers`, `pinch to unzoom and vice versa`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By multi-finger, I think 3 fingers recognition is enough. 4 is a bonus :) Example: `3 fingers tap` to work as the middle click to fast close browser tabs or opening links in a new tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By external, I mean not built-in laptop touchpads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, know such a touchpad working on Ubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* I tried posting the [same question][1] on askubuntu.com but was put on hold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* Tags I couldn't create: `touchpad` `scrolling` `tap-to-click` `doubleclick`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://askubuntu.com/q/867347/13330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="6dfdd30c-e800-4237-abd5-d90e39d18836" CreationDate="2017-01-03T12:26:37.110" UserId="5296" Text="What external touchpads work on Ubuntu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="6dfdd30c-e800-4237-abd5-d90e39d18836" CreationDate="2017-01-03T12:26:37.110" UserId="5296" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="d7b320ff-d254-42f9-949e-da0c30ba0c82" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:12:30.020" UserId="5296" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="By &quot;work&quot;, I mean recognizing `clicks`, `taps`, `multi-finger clicks`, `multi-finger taps`, `simultaneous horizontal and vertical scroll using 2 fingers`, `pinch to unzoom and vice versa`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By multi-finger, I think 3 fingers recognition is enough. 4 is a bonus :) Example: `3 fingers tap` to work as the middle click to fast close browser tabs or opening links in a new tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By external, I mean not built-in laptop touchpads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, know such a touchpad working on Ubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* I tried posting the [same question][1] on askubuntu.com but was put on hold and someone recommended posting the question on Hardware Recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* Tags I couldn't create: `touchpad` `scrolling` `tap-to-click` `doubleclick`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://askubuntu.com/q/867347/13330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19520" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="1829d4ff-870c-4626-9726-7e4e6f377943" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:22:13.133" UserId="2086" Text="There are 2 I am seriously considering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech ue 4500&#xD;&#xA;Logitech artemis g933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have no idea how to compare them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both wireless (a must)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both made by logitech (optional)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both seems 7.1 (a must).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They both contains mic (a must)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I like logitech is because I want their universal receiver. So basically I want one universal receiver for keyboard, mouse, and headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want a bluetooth one (as another mode is okay). Quality of bluetooth sound is not good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer the one using real batteries rather than something you can charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I chooose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be around $200. The cheaper the better. However, if there is a better feature on more expensive one please tell me and I may consider." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19521" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="1829d4ff-870c-4626-9726-7e4e6f377943" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:22:13.133" UserId="2086" Text="Recommend me a wireless logitech headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19522" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="1829d4ff-870c-4626-9726-7e4e6f377943" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:22:13.133" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="c83210f6-b932-404c-b8c2-c151741c5b6b" CreationDate="2017-01-03T13:27:33.713" UserId="2086" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="There are 2 I am seriously considering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech ue 4500&#xD;&#xA;Logitech artemis g933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have no idea how to compare them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both wireless (a must)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both made by logitech (optional)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both seems 7.1 (a must).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They both contains mic (a must)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I like logitech is because I want their universal receiver. So basically I want one universal receiver for keyboard, mouse, and headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want a bluetooth one (as another mode is okay). Quality of bluetooth sound is not good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer the one using real batteries rather than something you can charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I chooose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be around $200. The cheaper the better. However, if there is a better feature on more expensive one please tell me and I may consider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For some reason logitech doesn't list ue 4500 at all on it's website. I wonder why." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19524" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6588" RevisionGUID="65db519e-9b03-47ef-b2ff-e6496b07ecf3" CreationDate="2017-01-03T14:34:03.953" UserId="4523" Text="A quick search via newegg.com yields the following results:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech G933](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826197104&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=logitech_wireless_headset-_-26-197-104-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pro-G audio &amp; 7.1 Dolby Surround Sound&#xD;&#xA;    Adjustable lighting up to 16.8 million colors&#xD;&#xA;    Flexible wireless or wired connection up to 12-hour battery life&#xD;&#xA;    Foldaway noise-cancelling mic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless type:  RF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price:  169.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech H600](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104624&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=logitech_wireless_headset-_-26-104-624-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Noise-canceling microphone&#xD;&#xA;    2.4 GHz wireless&#xD;&#xA;    Six-hour rechargeable battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless type:  RF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price:  50.00&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6589" RevisionGUID="485831c4-55fe-4a12-9d91-7e16fbabb6c6" CreationDate="2017-01-03T18:32:42.153" UserId="3980" Text="You might take a look at this: [Dell U2715H 27-Inch Widescreen IPS LED Monitor][1] on Amazon.co.uk for 	£394.93&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1440p Resoluiton&#xD;&#xA; - 60Hz Refresh Rate&#xD;&#xA; - 27 inch&#xD;&#xA; - IPS LED &#xD;&#xA; - Multiple Display Inputs: 2x HDMI, 1x Mini Display Port&#xD;&#xA; - Under budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The average review for this screen on Amazon.co.uk is 4.6/5, which isn't too bad. The average is 4.4/5 on [Amazon.com][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One review on the .co.uk site does mention dead pixels however, I wouldn't be too concerned since the majority of reviews expressed satisfaction with the performance/quality of the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Monitors/Dell-U2715H-27-Inch-Widescreen-IPS-LED-Monitor/B00P0EQD1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483467017&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Dell%20UltraSharp%20U2715H%2027-Inch%20Screen%20LED-Lit%20Monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0EQD1Q/ref=psdc_1292115011_t1_B00R61V7JE?th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19527" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="10b4544f-c6ed-4871-9650-46ecb1373f55" CreationDate="2017-01-03T23:46:16.500" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19528" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="60d6e5f8-3c17-4e9d-a7f8-f1d752aba1ac" CreationDate="2017-01-03T23:47:08.613" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="60d6e5f8-3c17-4e9d-a7f8-f1d752aba1ac" CreationDate="2017-01-03T23:47:08.613" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="By &quot;work&quot;, I mean recognizing clicks, taps, multi-finger clicks, multi-finger taps, simultaneous horizontal and vertical scroll using 2 fingers, pinch to unzoom and vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By multi-finger, I think 3 fingers recognition is enough. 4 is a bonus :) Example: 3 fingers tap to work as the middle click to fast close browser tabs or opening links in a new tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By external, I mean not built-in laptop touchpads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, know such a touchpad working on Ubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; \* I tried posting the [same question][1] on askubuntu.com but was put on hold and someone recommended posting the question on Hardware Recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://askubuntu.com/q/867347/13330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1039" RevisionGUID="b7ecb9ca-3551-4bcc-aefe-4894ccf62698" CreationDate="2017-01-04T02:04:16.380" UserId="1466" Comment="added more up-to-date hardware equivalent" Text="I have a low end Radeon card in one of my closet machines. If you are getting a new one, I'd recommend the [Radeon HD 5450][1]. It is $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Radeon HD 5450][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has support for HDMI, DVI and HDMI output. It also has 1 GB of memory and has a PCI Express interface. It is also fanless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not going to run high end video or play the newest games at max settings, but it will run a high definition monitor without a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: For next generation (6xxx) of the same graphics adapter, go with [Radeon HD 6450][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150565&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0NH1f.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=63DC6514-6E25-4D2F-B551-3E843BE1A15D&amp;lang=eng" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19535" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1039" RevisionGUID="b7ecb9ca-3551-4bcc-aefe-4894ccf62698" CreationDate="2017-01-04T02:04:16.380" Comment="Proposed by 1466 approved by 57 edit id of 555" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6590" RevisionGUID="cc2e4de6-bfc7-4782-b8f5-bdba4ac7ad81" CreationDate="2017-01-04T03:41:56.717" UserId="2395" Text="I hope this is the right SE, otherwise I might post it on electrical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am searching for a voltmeter with a digital output, either RS232 or USB. The ones I came around are very costly for my purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I do now: To measure the voltage of a lead acid battery I use a Raspberry Pi with a MCP3208 ADC and some resistors. It works, but it is a bit of an overkill for such a simple task in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The search term &quot;usb voltmeter&quot; leads mostly to USB adapters which show the voltage/current of an attached USB device. Which is not what I want or need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to pay more than 50 €, as you can get the RPi for less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although not critical, a small device would be preferred." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19538" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6590" RevisionGUID="cc2e4de6-bfc7-4782-b8f5-bdba4ac7ad81" CreationDate="2017-01-04T03:41:56.717" UserId="2395" Text="Voltmeter with USB/RS232" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19539" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6590" RevisionGUID="cc2e4de6-bfc7-4782-b8f5-bdba4ac7ad81" CreationDate="2017-01-04T03:41:56.717" UserId="2395" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="0def057a-d1d9-4191-ae13-cc8e7193d70c" CreationDate="2017-01-04T04:09:30.477" UserId="5001" Text="Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review.  I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros.  It does require software to be installed on the computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483502618&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output}&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:  This is a True RMS meter too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="43573a78-6729-407c-a6a9-07ef64bfe37f" CreationDate="2017-01-04T04:14:33.690" UserId="5001" Comment="More Information" Text="Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review.  I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros.  It does require software to be installed on the computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483502618&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output}&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:  This is a True RMS meter too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find a more in depth review on this specific meter [Here](http://www.stevenhoneyman.co.uk/2016/06/mercury-mttr01-digital-multimeter-600104.html)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="b621259c-2638-4166-94ae-365e9bbe2664" CreationDate="2017-01-04T06:23:16.243" UserId="4523" Comment="Corrected the link a bit" Text="Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review.  I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros.  It does require software to be installed on the computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[True RMS Multimeter](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483502618&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:  This is a True RMS meter too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find a more in depth review on this specific meter [Here](http://www.stevenhoneyman.co.uk/2016/06/mercury-mttr01-digital-multimeter-600104.html)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19543" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="b621259c-2638-4166-94ae-365e9bbe2664" CreationDate="2017-01-04T06:23:16.243" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by -1 edit id of 556" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19544" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="9c1e53cc-d43a-41a8-acc7-999ff9df05fa" CreationDate="2017-01-04T06:23:16.243" UserId="5001" Comment="Corrected the link a bit" Text="Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review.  I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros.  It does require software to be installed on the computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[True RMS Multimeter @ Amazon UK](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483502618&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:  This is a True RMS meter too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find a more in depth review on this specific meter [Here](http://www.stevenhoneyman.co.uk/2016/06/mercury-mttr01-digital-multimeter-600104.html)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6591" RevisionGUID="9b441839-1fa4-4362-a13a-2437beb4aa62" CreationDate="2017-01-04T18:01:41.697" UserId="5001" Comment="Updating based on comments" Text="Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review.  I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros.  It does require software to be installed on the computer though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[True RMS Multimeter @ Amazon UK](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483502618&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output) £44.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lower price True RMS Multimeter @ Ebay](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCURY-TRUE-RMS-DIGITAL-MULTITESTER-WITH-USB-INTERFACE-/252144038537?hash=item3ab4f4b289:g:zXkAAOSwA4dWL1eO) £39.99 Including Shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus:  This is a True RMS meter too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find a more in depth review on this specific meter [Here](http://www.stevenhoneyman.co.uk/2016/06/mercury-mttr01-digital-multimeter-600104.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Universal power supply @ Amazon UK](https://www.amazon.co.uk/CostMad-Universal-Universelle-Voltage-Replacement/dp/B003Z6ZUJ2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483551923&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=dc+adapter) for constant power. £8.79&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lower price 9V Power Supply @ Ebay](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EU-Plug-AC-100-240V-to-DC-9V-1A-Switching-Power-Supply-Converter-Adapter-Black-T-/221793302464?hash=item33a3e937c0:g:zd4AAOSwNSxVcZhf) £1.53 Including Shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Google currency conversion BP to Euro](https://www.google.com/search?q=%C2%A341.94+to+euro&amp;oq=%C2%A341.94+to+euro&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.8542j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#q=%C2%A341.52+to+euro) 48.83€ As of 01/04/2017 if you use the lesser priced options and give up the Amazon luxuries." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19550" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6498" RevisionGUID="2a67c0b6-3107-41cc-af74-be66495bc1a6" CreationDate="2017-01-04T19:56:45.343" UserId="-1" Comment="48" />
  <row Id="19551" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6587" RevisionGUID="7fd41223-5639-4d34-b064-1fd5d8cac553" CreationDate="2017-01-04T20:35:50.030" UserId="155" Comment="improved formatting; condensed grammar" Text="There are two I am seriously considering, Logitech UE 4500 and Logitech Artemis G933, but I have no idea how to compare them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- They are both wireless (a must)&#xD;&#xA;- They are both made by logitech (optional)&#xD;&#xA;- They are both 7.1 (a must)&#xD;&#xA;- They both contains mic (a must)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I like logitech is because I want their universal receiver. So basically I want one universal receiver for keyboard, mouse, and headphones. I do not want a bluetooth one (as another mode is okay). Quality of bluetooth sound is not good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer the one using real batteries rather than something you can charge. The purpose is for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I choose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be around $200. The cheaper the better. However, if there is a better feature on more expensive one please tell me and I may consider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For some reason logitech doesn't list ue 4500 at all on it's website. I wonder why." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19552" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="2014a227-dcd0-492d-b53f-fdf0f33b838e" CreationDate="2017-01-04T20:56:45.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6594" RevisionGUID="f0fba71a-b57b-4909-91b9-f31c9d43758d" CreationDate="2017-01-05T08:53:22.840" UserId="527" Text="I have been using an all-in-one printer/scanner/copier that meets most of my needs.  I just bought color catridges for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the big detraction to this device is that it does *not* have an automatic document feeder for the scanner.  It also cannot scan both sides of the document.  Furthermore, it takes about 45 seconds to scan a single page of text.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, my pile of *&quot;to scan&quot;* has grown to well over 100 pages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm tempted to pick up a dedicated sheet-fed document scanner, but I don't have the space to add another sizeable device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm primarily looking at two options (and am open to other possibilities):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Replace the current all-in-one with an inexpensive all-in-one that includes a sheet feeder and can perform double-sided scans.&#xD;&#xA;  2. Keep the current all-in-one and add a hand-held document scanner that can scan a text document quickly (let's say 10 seconds per page).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I scan 95% of documents in monochrome, 4% in color, and 1% in invisible ink that only the cat can see.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I'm looking to spend as little as possible.**  I rarely print anything: 1-2 pages per day, at most.  I do like the ability to print in color.  I generally print from Windows.  Fax functionality is nice, but definitely not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend hardware to satisfy either option *(above)*, or recommend a third option?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19557" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6594" RevisionGUID="f0fba71a-b57b-4909-91b9-f31c9d43758d" CreationDate="2017-01-05T08:53:22.840" UserId="527" Text="Document scanner that respects limited desktop space" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19558" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6594" RevisionGUID="f0fba71a-b57b-4909-91b9-f31c9d43758d" CreationDate="2017-01-05T08:53:22.840" UserId="527" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6595" RevisionGUID="c637fc97-9125-430a-8cdd-48485bf09414" CreationDate="2017-01-05T09:39:38.563" UserId="5295" Text="Maybe a mobile document scanner would work for you.&#xD;&#xA;Something like the [Canon imageFORMULA P-208II][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is small, has duplex functionality (scans both sides at once), and scans 8 pages per second (7.5 seconds per page).&#xD;&#xA;I don't know your budget, but a little bit over 100 £/130 € doesn't seem that bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no experience with this scanner, but a rating 4.3 of 5 on amazon seams quite good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here are some other similar scanners][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://skinflint.co.uk/canon-imageformula-p-208ii-9704b003-a1246241.html?hloc=uk&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=scn&amp;xf=2881_mobiler%20Dokumentenscanner~778_Duplexeinheit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6595" RevisionGUID="d78feb9e-4041-4f4c-84e9-392ec91988dd" CreationDate="2017-01-05T10:28:40.213" UserId="527" Comment="changed seconds to minute! :)" Text="Maybe a mobile document scanner would work for you.&#xD;&#xA;Something like the [Canon imageFORMULA P-208II][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is small, has duplex functionality (scans both sides at once), and scans 8 pages per minute (7.5 seconds per page).&#xD;&#xA;I don't know your budget, but a little bit over 100 £/130 € doesn't seem that bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no experience with this scanner, but a rating 4.3 of 5 on amazon seams quite good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here are some other similar scanners][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://skinflint.co.uk/canon-imageformula-p-208ii-9704b003-a1246241.html?hloc=uk&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=scn&amp;xf=2881_mobiler%20Dokumentenscanner~778_Duplexeinheit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19561" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6595" RevisionGUID="d78feb9e-4041-4f4c-84e9-392ec91988dd" CreationDate="2017-01-05T10:28:40.213" Comment="Proposed by 527 approved by 5295 edit id of 558" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="da755508-1147-4a08-96e8-de02c36f8175" CreationDate="2017-01-05T11:09:53.563" UserId="5296" Comment="Added my effort." Text="By &quot;work&quot;, I mean recognizing clicks, taps, multi-finger clicks, multi-finger taps, simultaneous horizontal and vertical scroll using 2 fingers, pinch to unzoom and vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By multi-finger, I think 3 fingers recognition is enough. 4 is a bonus :) Example: 3 fingers tap to work as the middle click to fast close browser tabs or opening links in a new tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By external, I mean not built-in laptop touchpads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, know such a touchpad working on Ubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; \* I tried posting the [same question][1] on askubuntu.com but was put on hold and someone recommended posting the question on Hardware Recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I found so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Logitch Touchpad T650][2] supports [some gesture but not all][3]. [Requires a firmware update that can be done only on Windows][4] :(&#xD;&#xA; 1. Apple Magic Trackpd 1 - Found a [5 years old answer][5] and one [open question of late][6].&#xD;&#xA; 1. Apple Magic Trackpd 2 - couldn't find info on Ubuntu/Linux support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://askubuntu.com/q/867347/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/touchpad-t650&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://askubuntu.com/a/324338/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://askubuntu.com/a/423037/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://askubuntu.com/a/45269/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://askubuntu.com/q/807940/13330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19568" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="5663c99b-79b0-471f-9626-9dd9c139a4e9" CreationDate="2017-01-05T14:07:46.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6597" RevisionGUID="1d4d66e0-eb70-48f9-8c34-2a336f6e6c93" CreationDate="2017-01-05T15:39:13.197" UserId="5001" Text="I am going to give three options here.  I am not sure if they will hit the budget you are looking for but they are all GREAT scanners.  I personally own the IX500 and it is the best scanner I have ever owned.  This includes being better than commercial scanners that cost upwards of $5000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu iX500 @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-Document-Scanner-PA03656-B305/dp/B01G3JYVYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483629976&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fujitsu+scansnap) $415.93&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Excellent scanner that includes color scanning, 50 page ADF and duplex.  The scanner is fast and scans 25 double sided pages per minute.  The device also has wireless capability.  The scanner is super small not much larger than a loaf of bread when closed up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu ScanSnap S1300i @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-S1300i-Document-Scanner/dp/B008HBFADQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483629976&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fujitsu+scansnap) $241.07&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This scanner only does 12 double sided pages per minute but it can be powered purely off of USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Fujitsu ScanSnap iX100 @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-Wireless-Mobile-Scanner/dp/B00NWGGUAS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483629976&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=fujitsu+scansnap) $193.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the lease expensive of the scanners and does not have an ADF.  It is still a good scanner and does offer wireless connectivity.  It weights less than half a kilo and is battery powered for maximum portability.  The docs say it can scan 260 pages on a single charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I am very biased towards this brand of scanner since I have had such an excellent experience with them.  I have scanned over 40,000 Pages on my iX500.  Please make your own decision but I think you will find the reviews you can find on the internet will also follow my feelings on the product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19579" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="dd6c5e12-006b-4ff4-832e-6e8a4b16814b" CreationDate="2017-01-05T19:14:49.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6602" RevisionGUID="9905a6d7-b7c2-4d2b-a12f-7cc897bd33f5" CreationDate="2017-01-05T22:27:03.983" UserId="5312" Text="I need to fit a fully-functioning mobo with an LGA1151 cpu socket and a PCI-E x16 slot for my gpu and at least 2 RAM slots in a 11 x 5.5 x 7 case. It also has to have a maximum RAM capacity of at least 32GB. No need for fancy stuff like LED controllers or anything though. Just the bare functional basics, because it will be in a very closed off case, so it doesn't need to look nice at all. Does anyone know of a 1: Very small but full-featured motherboard, or 2: a company that would be willing to manufacture 1-2 motherboards of a very small size for a couple hundred dollars. Any other options would also help, but those are the main 2 things I'd be looking for. My budget per board is around $250, give or take a bit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19588" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6602" RevisionGUID="9905a6d7-b7c2-4d2b-a12f-7cc897bd33f5" CreationDate="2017-01-05T22:27:03.983" UserId="5312" Text="Tiny motherboard with full functionality?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19589" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6602" RevisionGUID="9905a6d7-b7c2-4d2b-a12f-7cc897bd33f5" CreationDate="2017-01-05T22:27:03.983" UserId="5312" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6602" RevisionGUID="d9852d05-eb6a-4441-96a1-5dc77eea1c94" CreationDate="2017-01-05T22:33:29.947" UserId="5312" Comment="Added some more stuff" Text="I need to fit a fully-functioning mobo with an LGA1151 cpu socket and a PCI-E x16 slot for my gpu and at least 2 RAM slots in a 11 x 5.5 x 7 case. It also has to have a maximum RAM capacity of at least 32GB. No need for fancy stuff like LED controllers or anything though. Just the bare functional basics, because it will be in a very closed off case, so it doesn't need to look nice at all. Does anyone know of a 1: Very small but full-featured motherboard, or 2: a company that would be willing to manufacture 1-2 motherboards of a very small size for a couple hundred dollars. Any other options would also help, but those are the main 2 things I'd be looking for. My budget per board is around $250, give or take a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I've read around a bit, and I've figured out that it will probably be way too much money to make a mobo, but what about modding an already made one? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6604" RevisionGUID="a35e6e57-bbda-412b-a29f-2574bae6311e" CreationDate="2017-01-06T00:46:21.970" UserId="5281" Text="I don't know much about CPU benchmarks and hardware specifications - I'm looking at laptops capable of running several VMWare instances. These instances have 2-4 GB of RAM allocated to each. They perform low-moderate intensity tasks but aren't doing anything niche like video encoding or graphics work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a ThinkPad Edge with a i7-4702MQ, 8GB of RAM, and a (failing) 5400rpm hard drive. It's due for a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the list of things I believe I need for this laptop -&#xD;&#xA;- Intel processor with 15W TDP, pref. i7. &#xD;&#xA;- 14&quot; or smaller screen, the smaller and lighter the better.&#xD;&#xA;- M.2 SSD capability, preferably NVMe&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably 16GB RAM but 1x8GB would be okay to upgrade&#xD;&#xA;- 1080p screen&#xD;&#xA;- Australian retailer&#xD;&#xA;- $1500-2000 budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something from the Dell Latitude line would be nice but I'm likely unaware of some decent brands out there.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19594" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6604" RevisionGUID="a35e6e57-bbda-412b-a29f-2574bae6311e" CreationDate="2017-01-06T00:46:21.970" UserId="5281" Text="Need a laptop for VMs/office work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19595" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6604" RevisionGUID="a35e6e57-bbda-412b-a29f-2574bae6311e" CreationDate="2017-01-06T00:46:21.970" UserId="5281" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19596" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6605" RevisionGUID="23d55d0c-314b-4fe3-8e7b-e2c2b0533dc3" CreationDate="2017-01-06T01:00:50.980" UserId="241" Text="To translate your dimensions into normal terms, you're looking for a Mini-ITX (or Mini-DTX) board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the [Asus H110I-PLUS/CSM][1], $86 from Newegg:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 6.7&quot; x 6.7&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Socket LGA1151&#xD;&#xA;* Two RAM slots supporting a total of 32 GB&#xD;&#xA;* One PCIe 3.0 x16 slot&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonably &quot;full-featured&quot;: 4 SATA ports, 6 USB ports, Ethernet, eight-channel audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chipset and voltage regulators are passively cooled with small heatsinks, which may or may not be a problem for a &quot;very closed off case&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Asus mainboards in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132717&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19597" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6605" RevisionGUID="74dda118-cba3-41f8-8817-09e685699d0f" CreationDate="2017-01-06T01:23:04.773" UserId="5001" Comment="Added wikipedia link for expanded knowledge regarding the form factor size that the user is looking for." Text="To translate your dimensions into normal terms, you're looking for a Mini-ITX (or Mini-DTX) board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the [Asus H110I-PLUS/CSM][1], $86 from Newegg:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 6.7&quot; x 6.7&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Socket LGA1151&#xD;&#xA;* Two RAM slots supporting a total of 32 GB&#xD;&#xA;* One PCIe 3.0 x16 slot&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonably &quot;full-featured&quot;: 4 SATA ports, 6 USB ports, Ethernet, eight-channel audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chipset and voltage regulators are passively cooled with small heatsinks, which may or may not be a problem for a &quot;very closed off case&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Asus mainboards in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a [Wikipedia Link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_form_factor) to form factor sizes for reference.  This can provide you all the options for size options that are offered based on size standards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132717&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19598" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6605" RevisionGUID="74dda118-cba3-41f8-8817-09e685699d0f" CreationDate="2017-01-06T01:23:04.773" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 241 edit id of 559" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19600" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="775a5634-21a2-48ef-b187-606942ac36ff" CreationDate="2017-01-06T06:21:47.673" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6611" RevisionGUID="c91140e2-a243-488b-b617-071f407a752d" CreationDate="2017-01-06T14:53:44.407" UserId="4504" Text="This is the only one I was able to find that meets all of your requirements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The memory comes with 16gb in this config, what I consider the minimum to meet your needs. Its up-gradable to 32gb. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU is a 960M, this will push most game @ 1080p in high/ultra settings just fine. Poorly optimized AAA games might have to be toned down by removing shadows or something. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Its super lightweight, coming in at under 4 pounds... thats crazy to me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, its within your price range, name brand and ships to Australia. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI 14&quot; GS40][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Product Specs][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Other laptops that meet requirements (Minus price req)][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/global/au/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154191&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/au/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=Property&amp;Subcategory=3365&amp;N=100202573%20600553907&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;IsPowerSearch=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19614" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6605" RevisionGUID="b3b3d256-6398-42c4-82a5-00435c5de19e" CreationDate="2017-01-06T21:30:59.760" UserId="241" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="To translate your dimensions into normal terms, you're looking for a Mini-ITX (or Mini-DTX) board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the [Asus H110I-PLUS/CSM][1], $86 from Newegg:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 6.7&quot; x 6.7&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Socket LGA1151&#xD;&#xA;* Two RAM slots supporting a total of 32 GB&#xD;&#xA;* One PCIe 3.0 x16 slot&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonably &quot;full-featured&quot;: 4 SATA ports, 6 USB ports, Ethernet, eight-channel audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chipset and voltage regulators are passively cooled with small heatsinks, which may or may not be a problem for a &quot;very closed off case&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Asus mainboards in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a [Wikipedia link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_form_factor) to form factor sizes for reference.  This can provide you all the options for size options that are offered based on size standards.  Keep in mind that anything smaller than Mini-ITX is unlikely to have a PCIe slot, and is likely to have just a single SO-DIMM slot for memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132717&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19616" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6155" RevisionGUID="964cda3a-b790-4417-9dfc-f1722ff3aa71" CreationDate="2017-01-06T22:40:32.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6613" RevisionGUID="6ce74e5f-9c8c-4984-b808-9bb0eabb7dc9" CreationDate="2017-01-06T23:34:02.253" UserId="4146" Text="Im after a case fan that i can use with the motherboards controll. I currently have &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Coarsair carbide 100r silent edition http://www.corsair.com/en-au/carbide-series-100r-silent-edition-mid-tower-case&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard Gigabyte H170-H3D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case fans are 3 pin and appear not to be compatible with the motherboard controlls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far i've considered &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Noctua NF-S12A PWM 120mm 1200RPM Case Fan NF-S12APWM&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair CO-9050040-WW ML120 Pro 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair CO-9050042-WW ML120 PRO LED Red 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But im not really sure here, does the magnetic levitation add anything? Is it a problem that the Noctua is a little slower on the total RPM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are alot of specs around fans such as static pressure and high air flow etc, how much does this matter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for usage of the pc, does not have a graphic card, may get one one day, no overclocking. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In essence**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Want to replace fan with one that can be controlled through a 4 pin connector&#xD;&#xA; - Would like it to be a bit quieter, color optional if does not comprimise the following too much&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19622" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6613" RevisionGUID="6ce74e5f-9c8c-4984-b808-9bb0eabb7dc9" CreationDate="2017-01-06T23:34:02.253" UserId="4146" Text="Case fan that works with the motherboard controls" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19623" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6613" RevisionGUID="6ce74e5f-9c8c-4984-b808-9bb0eabb7dc9" CreationDate="2017-01-06T23:34:02.253" UserId="4146" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19624" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5693" RevisionGUID="3ebcc374-c090-432e-abfb-5bcfcb0e1c14" CreationDate="2017-01-06T23:40:32.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6616" RevisionGUID="1408fdbc-9a00-4044-976a-57dc073e7218" CreationDate="2017-01-07T10:24:47.877" UserId="5323" Text="I have seen a video where people had a touch-enabled laptop connected via USB-C to a hi-res monitor.&#xD;&#xA;They were drawing on the laptop's touch-enabled screen using a pressure-sensitive pen. Both the laptop and the monitor were showing the same image in Photoshop.&#xD;&#xA;I would like to replicate this setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically instead of buying a Wacom tablet, I'm looking at buying a laptop that would serve as a digitizing tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think there are several touch-screen technologies and also several pen technologies, so my question is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- which touch-screen and pen technologies offer the highest precision and the biggest range of features for working in Photoshop ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I would like something that is compatible with Windows Ink.&#xD;&#xA;But the purpose right now is to use this hardware with Photoshop CC &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19632" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6616" RevisionGUID="1408fdbc-9a00-4044-976a-57dc073e7218" CreationDate="2017-01-07T10:24:47.877" UserId="5323" Text="Which combination of Pen and touch-enabled laptop are compatible with Photoshop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19633" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6616" RevisionGUID="1408fdbc-9a00-4044-976a-57dc073e7218" CreationDate="2017-01-07T10:24:47.877" UserId="5323" Text="&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19638" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="a566dee4-fac5-424f-8724-b5b57c701d25" CreationDate="2017-01-07T17:01:06.583" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19656" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6590" RevisionGUID="b0078702-101e-4634-bb41-bf27ab06889b" CreationDate="2017-01-08T01:35:23.820" UserId="5001" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;test-equipment&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19657" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6590" RevisionGUID="b0078702-101e-4634-bb41-bf27ab06889b" CreationDate="2017-01-08T01:35:23.820" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 2395 edit id of 560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6623" RevisionGUID="ea0d8fd4-8994-46b1-83bc-bd6e542070e3" CreationDate="2017-01-08T01:50:46.187" UserId="4523" Text="The answer would be no, there are no USB-C splitters in existence.  Neither are there any USB-(insert connector style here) splitters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB cannot be split per se, but hubs can be used to connect multiple USB devices to one USB port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6624" RevisionGUID="f17bf290-b6ec-4a2e-a31c-f38a42cb4431" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:21:24.007" UserId="3980" Text="I'm looking for a *compact* mATX case for a NAS system. One that I can stick in a corner somewhere and forget about (figuratively).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research into this, but all results I found that were less than 50 USD only had three or fewer drive bays. I found a few mATX cases with four 3.5&quot; bays, but they were out of my budget range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Necessary Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Four bays for 3.5&quot; HDDs&#xD;&#xA; - Front Panel USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA; - Less than $50 USD (lower is better, new not used)&#xD;&#xA; - Approx. 3 inches of clearance for the CPU fan (~76mm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optional, but would be nice:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cube/LAN box style&#xD;&#xA; - Dust Filters&#xD;&#xA; - From Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19664" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6624" RevisionGUID="f17bf290-b6ec-4a2e-a31c-f38a42cb4431" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:21:24.007" UserId="3980" Text="Compact mATX case for NAS system with four 3.5&quot; drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19665" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6624" RevisionGUID="f17bf290-b6ec-4a2e-a31c-f38a42cb4431" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:21:24.007" UserId="3980" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6625" RevisionGUID="d9c0a79c-6ffe-47b6-b20e-3bf0601f48b8" CreationDate="2017-01-08T05:56:47.420" UserId="4523" Text="I cannot find a cube style but the following did come across as a good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SilverStone PS08B @ Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163223&amp;ignorebbr=1) 39.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SilverStone PS08B @ Amazon(prime eligible)](https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Micro-ATX-Mini-ITX-Computer-PS08B/dp/B00A1ZU1I0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483854579&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=SilverStone+PS08B) 39.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just posted the Newegg link along with the Amazon link, due to the fact that Newegg is much better with item specifications....and power searches...than Amazon is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a few specs on the case:  &#xD;&#xA;2 x USB 3.0 / Audio Front Ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side Air duct&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 External 5.25&quot; Drive Bays&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 Internal 3.5&quot; Drive Bays " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="05580b73-3d9d-4757-8213-4de7348ee5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:00:33.617" UserId="5328" Text="i hope that i can get a solution for my issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two computers :&#xD;&#xA;One is an [AsusN56VJ][1] laptop ,a little bit old :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The configuration is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 323M (2 phisiqual core with 4 thread) 2.6 ghz.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 go of ram at 1067 Mhz (1*4go and 1*2go)&#xD;&#xA; - 500 go   of hdd&#xD;&#xA; - nvideao geforce 635m (vram :2go)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My second computer is a packardBell  desktop :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - E5700 (2 core 3 ghz)&#xD;&#xA; - 4 go of ram&#xD;&#xA; - 120 go ssd&#xD;&#xA; - Hd 6750 graphical card (2 go).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what i want is to buy a new computer , but i hesisate between a laptop and a desktop because i have those two computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What shoud i do ? because I want a computer which can run 2016 games and doing some programming stuf , I see that i can't upgrade my desktop on the contrary of my laptop where i can upgrade to 32 of Ram at 1600 mhz and a new SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm asking if it is a wise choice to upgrade a my laptop to 16 go of RAM knowing that i have a processor with only 2 physiqual cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;if you were in place of me what would you do?i have  between 800 and 1000 dollar .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFbt88As1pg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19678" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="05580b73-3d9d-4757-8213-4de7348ee5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:00:33.617" UserId="5328" Text="should i Upgrade My computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19679" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="05580b73-3d9d-4757-8213-4de7348ee5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:00:33.617" UserId="5328" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="d5862a84-9d55-4422-be6a-8916d4dd9277" CreationDate="2017-01-08T19:47:03.907" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrected" Text="I hope that I can get a solution for my issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two computers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is an [AsusN56VJ][1] laptop, a little bit old:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The configuration is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 323M (2 physical cores with 4 threads) 2.6 GHz.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 GB of RAM at 1067 MHz (1*4GB and 1*2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - 500 GB of HDD&#xD;&#xA; - NVidia Geforce 635m (VRAM: 2 GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My second computer is a PackardBell desktop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - E5700 (2 cores, 3 GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 120 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - HD 6750 graphical card (2 GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I want is to buy a new computer, but I hesitate between a laptop and a desktop because I have those two computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I do? Because I want a computer which can run 2016 games and do some programming stuff, I see that I can't upgrade my desktop on the contrary of my laptop where I can upgrade to 32 of RAM at 1600 MHz and a new SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm asking if it is a wise choice to upgrade a my laptop to 16 GB of RAM knowing that I have a processor with only 2 physical cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were in my place, what would you do? I have between 800 and 1000 dollar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFbt88As1pg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19681" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="d5862a84-9d55-4422-be6a-8916d4dd9277" CreationDate="2017-01-08T19:47:03.907" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrected" Text="Should I upgrade my computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19682" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="d5862a84-9d55-4422-be6a-8916d4dd9277" CreationDate="2017-01-08T19:47:03.907" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 5328 edit id of 561" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6628" RevisionGUID="3e3364a5-cffe-46aa-827a-c0b76dd4088c" CreationDate="2017-01-08T20:26:59.097" UserId="3980" Text="I would go with a desktop build [like this][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is on a Z170a chipset, which will allow you to overclock *if you decide to upgrade to a K series skylake or kabylake CPU*. The cooler should accommodate a reasonable overclock. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the z170a SLI plus, you can use 2 way SLI or 3 way crossfire if you have compatible GPUs. The GTX 1060 should easily tackle most 2016 games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 drives: a SSD for boot and for software that you need to access quickly (like games) and a 1TB HDD for storing files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Specs/Parts are as follows:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**CPU**: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz **($118.98 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**CPU Coole**r: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO **($34.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;-**Motherboard**: MSI Z170A SLI PLUS ($135.95 @ Amazon) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Memory**: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 **($49.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Storage**: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5&quot; SSD  **($89.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Storage**: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; **($49.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Video Card**: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 2GB **($116.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Power Supply**: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply  **($37.99 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Operating System**: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  **($90.72 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-**Case**: Thermaltake Versa H22 **($43.46 @ Amazon)** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $769.05 (for the PC build, $859.05 with additional laptop RAM)&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You *can* upgrade your laptop from 6GB to 16GB of RAM, but I would only do this if I needed the extra RAM. Having extra RAM isn't going to make a difference in performance you aren't said extra RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I'm asking if it is a wise choice to upgrade a my laptop to 16 GB of RAM knowing that I have a processor with only 2 physical cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In response to that, core count doesn't necessarily mean you can't use more RAM. You should be able to utilize as much RAM as the manufacturer says is supported.[The i5 3230M supports up to 32GB of RAM][2], but I believe this is limited to 16GB in your laptop (due to chipset limitations?). Furthermore, your laptop's i5 3230M is dual core and hyperthreaded. [Basically, it's like having four cores.][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you feel like you need more RAM for your laptop take a look at something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [- Timetec® (P/N 76TT13NUS2R8-8G) Dual Rank 1333MHz DDR3 (PC3-10600) Non-ECC Unbuffered CL9 204 Pin SODIMM 2Rx8 512x8 1.5V Windows PC Laptop Notebook RAM Memory Module Upgrade (16GB (2x8GB)) **($80 @ Amazon)**][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: I have ommitted shipping charges, since I'm not sure where you need the parts to be shipped (internationally, locally etc...) (also depends on where you order the parts)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/G3YgCy&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ark.intel.com/products/72164/Intel-Core-i5-3230M-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3_20-GHz-rPGA&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/hyper-threading/hyper-threading-technology.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Timetec-76TT16NUSL2R8-8G-PC3-12800-Unbuffered-Computer/dp/B0145WDNF2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483907078&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=16gb%20laptop%20ram%20ddr3&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6629" RevisionGUID="4d4b19ab-5ce7-444d-b725-66b9a31bcc14" CreationDate="2017-01-09T12:34:30.467" UserId="5329" Text="Does there exist an ergonomic split keyboard, like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Split keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But where the keys don't stop at the 'official' typing boundary. Sometimes I want to type a B with my right hand, and these kinds of keyboards make it infuriating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that Apple realised split keyboards should have duplicated keys - the [iPad split keyboard has (invisible) duplicates](http://www.mactrast.com/2012/02/the-ipads-split-keyboard-has-6-hidden-keys-to-improve-your-typing/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any physical keyboards that do the same thing, or at *least* duplicate the B (it's exactly in the middle on many keyboards and Apple even put it on the right side of their split keyboard)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![iPad keyboard][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vioqQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSc0X.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19688" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6629" RevisionGUID="4d4b19ab-5ce7-444d-b725-66b9a31bcc14" CreationDate="2017-01-09T12:34:30.467" UserId="5329" Text="Split keyboard with duplicated keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19689" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6629" RevisionGUID="4d4b19ab-5ce7-444d-b725-66b9a31bcc14" CreationDate="2017-01-09T12:34:30.467" UserId="5329" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6630" RevisionGUID="f8f107d3-d6bd-4268-9a36-e8df6f306333" CreationDate="2017-01-09T14:22:23.497" UserId="5110" Text="I was able to work around this solution with the use of a couple of HD68 to IDC50 converters and an IDC50 cable. Not the best solution but it looks like the connector on the board was a bit too propriety (even though it was still a standard SCSI cable). In the end it worked and there does not appear to be any interference from using a short internal cable externally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was able to find the Dell cable (P/N: 5984D), though that did turn out to be male on both ends, it was worth a shot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps anybody that might run into this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6631" RevisionGUID="b0c55727-dfe6-41d9-8c93-a156046c5b73" CreationDate="2017-01-09T15:54:29.123" UserId="4504" Text="So, there is no keyboards with a dedicated &quot;B&quot; key on both sides so I found the next best thing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Ergo Pro][1] is fully separated, and has some good reviews. but what it has that you really need, an extra key to the left of the N key, on the right side. The reason this is important is because you can easily remap that key to send in a b. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Map Any Key to Any Key on Windows 10, 8, 7, or Vista][2] - This article gives you a little write up about how this can be done and even gives a software rec that looks extremely basic. I haven't looked, but I'm certain there are Mac key remapping programs as well. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I originally found this keyboard [In this article][3]. It was determined to be one of the best split key keyboards around, as of 2014 i think. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Matias-Ergo-Pro-for-Win/dp/B00ZWPR506&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/map-any-key-to-any-key-on-windows-xp-vista/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/comfortable-ergo-keyboard/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19692" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6631" RevisionGUID="909fa07a-1138-47bc-bb4c-14887267dc56" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:46:08.617" UserId="4504" Comment="Added better retailer for keyboard. " Text="So, there is no keyboards with a dedicated &quot;B&quot; key on both sides so I found the next best thing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Ergo Pro][1] is fully separated, and has some good reviews. but what it has that you really need, an extra key to the left of the N key, on the right side. The reason this is important is because you can easily remap that key to send in a b. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Map Any Key to Any Key on Windows 10, 8, 7, or Vista][2] - This article gives you a little write up about how this can be done and even gives a software rec that looks extremely basic. I haven't looked, but I'm certain there are Mac key remapping programs as well. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I originally found this keyboard [In this article][3]. It was determined to be one of the best split key keyboards around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Here is the companies website, they have it listed for $200][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Matias-Ergo-Pro-for-Win/dp/B00ZWPR506&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/map-any-key-to-any-key-on-windows-xp-vista/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/comfortable-ergo-keyboard/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://matias.ca/ergopro/pc/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19706" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6635" RevisionGUID="5f5f5f05-d8ae-4b54-817c-58b4f55059e2" CreationDate="2017-01-10T15:34:19.473" UserId="5340" Text="I've installed CrashPlan for a lot of my family, and given some of them USB flash drives for local backup, which works pretty well, but I also want to setup a long-term off-site backup, for which I figured the easiest thing would be to setup a 24/7 backup server in my own house with a 4TB drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought an Intel Compute Stick CS125, and a Seagate Backup Plus Portable 4TB drive, but when I plug it into the USB 3 port, it doesn't work, seemingly due to the power requirement... it connects and disconnects unltiple times and then crashes the little computer.  I'm wondering if anybody can recommend another cheap, low power computer that has *enough* power for 4TB drive, and enough processing power to run crashplan, or perhaps recommend another 4TB drive that might use less power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If all else fails, it does seem to work fine on the USB 2.0 port, but I would prefer to have a device that can actually power USB 3.0 devices properly.  Seems like a failing of the CS125 to me... I don't want a poorly designed device...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19707" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6635" RevisionGUID="5f5f5f05-d8ae-4b54-817c-58b4f55059e2" CreationDate="2017-01-10T15:34:19.473" UserId="5340" Text="low power computer I can use for DIY NAS with Crashplan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19708" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6635" RevisionGUID="5f5f5f05-d8ae-4b54-817c-58b4f55059e2" CreationDate="2017-01-10T15:34:19.473" UserId="5340" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6636" RevisionGUID="53257a4e-9d95-42bb-9105-3e6a6bca971d" CreationDate="2017-01-10T21:07:52.230" UserId="5344" Text="I'm planning to buy a new laptop since my current PC(Lenovo U430) is kind of slow when it comes to gaming and video editing. My current budget is $1,000 to $1,500, after researching, I'm planning to buy one of these brands: Alienware 13 inch(latest model) or Macbook Pro 13 inch(with retina display) only.**Question: Which brand or model should I be buying that is compatible and worth it for a little gaming, graphic design, video editing(no lagging while editing or checking the video preview in After Effects or Premiere Pro) with my current budget? Aliewanre or Macbook?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the link to Alienware 13 inch list of models: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/alienware-13-laptop?~ck=mn&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the link to Macbook Pro 13 inch list of models: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?st=macbook+pro+retina+display+13&amp;_dyncharset=UTF-8&amp;id=pcat17071&amp;type=page&amp;sc=Global&amp;cp=1&amp;nrp=&amp;sp=&amp;qp=&amp;list=n&amp;af=true&amp;iht=y&amp;usc=All+Categories&amp;ks=960&amp;keys=keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comment your answer with the link or the brand and specs of the model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much !" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19710" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6636" RevisionGUID="53257a4e-9d95-42bb-9105-3e6a6bca971d" CreationDate="2017-01-10T21:07:52.230" UserId="5344" Text="Alienware or Macbook Pro? Which one is worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19711" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6636" RevisionGUID="53257a4e-9d95-42bb-9105-3e6a6bca971d" CreationDate="2017-01-10T21:07:52.230" UserId="5344" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6637" RevisionGUID="76221f42-b1bf-4d6b-9af5-0a7845a0eb0f" CreationDate="2017-01-10T21:26:26.447" UserId="5001" Text="For overall &quot;OUT OF THE BOX&quot; compatibility you are going to be better off going with a PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance wise comparing the two you will get the following benefits of the base model Alienware laptop over the MacBook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Faster Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Larger HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Much better video card (the MacBook only has Intel Iris integrated video)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) $100 Less expensive with reward card rebate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these items are using the base model Alienware laptop that you provided a link for.  With the extra money you could add some more power or featurs or move up the next model.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19722" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6406" RevisionGUID="6d834a99-18c6-4695-a2f5-c958cae87bd4" CreationDate="2017-01-11T02:21:42.527" UserId="476" Comment="formatting, shift key, grammar, removed irrelavent statements." Text="I am a freelance programmer. I am going to be in Switzerland in January, so I can buy my hardware there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a gaming notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must run windows 10: I can install it myself but if there are no drivers, I cannot install it. I run Linux in an OS box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - It should be able to contain my 1TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Warranty is not a concern&#xD;&#xA; - Around $2000 USD, not strict&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; screen or bigger&#xD;&#xA; - 1920x1080 resolution or higher (horizontal/vertical may NOT be lower than 1920/1080!!)&#xD;&#xA; - Weight is not a concern&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can also purchase in France or Germany." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="4e1e0ca2-16c4-4927-94f8-5a23c9ce64f7" CreationDate="2017-01-11T16:20:51.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19759" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6647" RevisionGUID="7ddf2069-ffe1-467d-910a-374cec618612" CreationDate="2017-01-12T15:45:22.293" UserId="5363" Text="Personally I would go with the Acer Aspire V17 Nitro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen	17.3 inch, 3840 x 2160 px &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor	Intel Skylake Core i7-6700HQ CPU, quad-core 2.6 GHz (3.5 GHz TBoost)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video	Intel HD 530 + Nvidia GTX 960M 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory	16 GB DDR4 2133Mhz (2xDIMMs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage	512 GB SSD + 1 TB 2.5″ HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its lightweight Despite the its  960M It has a 512GB nvme SSD, 4k display and a damn 7hr battery life, since you are a programmer you might consider that, at a price around $1700. But smart would also be to wait for CES 2017 releases." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6648" RevisionGUID="31a2838c-0e3e-42d2-840f-117aa6a1d29e" CreationDate="2017-01-12T20:39:13.433" UserId="5364" Text="I just purchased a tented split keyboard to alleviate some of the repetitive stress on my hands from typing, which I use with my MacBook Pro. It's working great overall, but I'm annoyed by the need to move my right hand off of the keyboard in order to scroll. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using PgUp/PgDown or Space/Shift-Space is insufficient for my needs, because I've become accustomed to analog control of scrolling, and the visual jump of scrolling a whole page -- not to mention losing sight of the last thing I was looking at, or even jumping past a bit of content (very common on websites with a fixed top navigation) -- is too disorienting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To solve this, I would love to have a small analog pointing device, i.e. a scroll wheel or joystick or trackpoint or trackpad, that I could clip onto the side of my keyboard and manipulate with my index finger or thumb. It would have to have its own Bluetooth support or at least be easy to use with a USB-to-Bluetooth adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't necessarily need the device to be ready-to-clip, as mounting could be jerry-rigged with binder clips or solved with a custom 3D printed part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's anything that occurs to you that would fulfill my need but doesn't conform to the description above, I'd love to hear about it. (Perhaps I will have to take apart a cheap Bluetooth mouse and just keep the scroll wheel and PCB.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19765" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6648" RevisionGUID="31a2838c-0e3e-42d2-840f-117aa6a1d29e" CreationDate="2017-01-12T20:39:13.433" UserId="5364" Text="Looking for a small analog pointing device, suitable for attaching to a tented split keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19766" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6648" RevisionGUID="31a2838c-0e3e-42d2-840f-117aa6a1d29e" CreationDate="2017-01-12T20:39:13.433" UserId="5364" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6649" RevisionGUID="ed801429-880d-44f7-9270-cef8b15b41c5" CreationDate="2017-01-12T20:54:52.920" UserId="4504" Text="This was a hard one to find! &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[This is my recommendation, the Griffin PowerMate Multi-Media Control Knob with Bluetooth Connectivity - Wirelessly control your Mac from Volume to Key Commands][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It has software that will let you change what the knob does. So instead of Volumn Up/Down, you will make it scroll up/down.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The only reason I could see this not working is if the form factor is an issue, but Honestly I think this might be as close as were going to get lol.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;EDIT* &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Apparently, this company make a wide range of these types of products so if you don't like the aesthetic of this one, search by company name online and I'm sure you'll find something that meets your needs better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerMate-Multi-Media-Bluetooth-Connectivity/dp/B00IRDRL4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484254282&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=griffin%20powermate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6649" RevisionGUID="6297589a-c0bc-413e-a607-2cbbb35cfb1c" CreationDate="2017-01-12T21:05:38.217" UserId="4504" Comment="added 293 characters in body" Text="This was a hard one to find! &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[This is my recommendation, the Griffin PowerMate Multi-Media Control Knob with Bluetooth Connectivity - Wirelessly control your Mac from Volume to Key Commands][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It has software that will let you change what the knob does. So instead of Volumn Up/Down, you will make it scroll up/down.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The only reason I could see this not working is if the form factor is an issue, but Honestly I think this might be as close as were going to get lol.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;EDIT* &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Apparently, this company make a wide range of these types of products so if you don't like the aesthetic of this one, search by company name online and I'm sure you'll find something that meets your needs better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2*  &#xD;&#xA;[This &quot;3d&quot; mouse][2] might be an option as well, it doesn't meet all of your requirements but it looks pretty freaking cool&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerMate-Multi-Media-Bluetooth-Connectivity/dp/B00IRDRL4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484254282&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=griffin%20powermate&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/3Dconnexion-3DX-700028-SpaceNavigator-3D-Mouse/dp/B000LB7G00/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484255025&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=3d%20mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6649" RevisionGUID="dd44a45f-c1a3-4bef-b996-ab3968455348" CreationDate="2017-01-12T21:13:49.477" UserId="4504" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="This was a hard one to find! &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[This is my recommendation, the Griffin PowerMate Multi-Media Control Knob with Bluetooth Connectivity - Wirelessly control your Mac from Volume to Key Commands][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It has software that will let you change what the knob does. So instead of Volumn Up/Down, you will make it scroll up/down.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The only reason I could see this not working is if the form factor is an issue, but Honestly I think this might be as close as were going to get lol.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;EDIT* &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Apparently, this company make a wide range of these types of products so if you don't like the aesthetic of this one, search by company name online and I'm sure you'll find something that meets your needs better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2*  &#xD;&#xA;[This &quot;3d&quot; mouse][2] might be an option as well, it doesn't meet all of your requirements but it looks pretty freaking cool&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerMate-Multi-Media-Bluetooth-Connectivity/dp/B00IRDRL4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484254282&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=griffin%20powermate&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/3Dconnexion-SpaceMouse-Wireless-Micro-USB-3DX-700043/dp/B00FJRRVII/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=98PGCSM14HBSAR1K35HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6649" RevisionGUID="5b07196a-96b2-4380-8c75-32ce355459d2" CreationDate="2017-01-12T21:20:31.313" UserId="4504" Comment="added 576 characters in body" Text="This was a hard one to find! &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[This is my recommendation, the Griffin PowerMate Multi-Media Control Knob with Bluetooth Connectivity - Wirelessly control your Mac from Volume to Key Commands][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It has software that will let you change what the knob does. So instead of Volumn Up/Down, you will make it scroll up/down.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The only reason I could see this not working is if the form factor is an issue, but Honestly I think this might be as close as were going to get lol.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;EDIT* &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Apparently, this company make a wide range of these types of products so if you don't like the aesthetic of this one, search by company name online and I'm sure you'll find something that meets your needs better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2*  &#xD;&#xA;[This &quot;3d&quot; mouse][2] might be an option as well, it doesn't meet all of your requirements but it looks pretty freaking cool&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 3*  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Last one I swear, this is a wireless tiny trackpad that you might be able to keep on the desk where your thumb can get to it.... [Logitech Rechargeable Trackpad for Mac][3].  I was trying to find a trackpad sticker... something that you could actually stick to the side of the keyboard frame and rub your finger on to scroll, but no luck on that front.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Alright that's all I have. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerMate-Multi-Media-Bluetooth-Connectivity/dp/B00IRDRL4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484254282&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=griffin%20powermate&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/3Dconnexion-SpaceMouse-Wireless-Micro-USB-3DX-700043/dp/B00FJRRVII/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=98PGCSM14HBSAR1K35HW&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Rechargeable-Trackpad-for-Mac/dp/B009JP461G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484255906&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Rechargeable%20Trackpad%20for%20Mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19773" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="7c877cc5-5832-41f6-a3ad-7f91171de7bf" CreationDate="2017-01-13T03:08:25.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6651" RevisionGUID="83b0f558-40b2-4ae1-9630-d76a7d25fd0f" CreationDate="2017-01-13T11:57:44.810" UserId="3788" Text="The FSF has [h-node][1], a database of hardware that works with free operating systems. Currently, the only PCIe WWAN adapter in the list is the Sierra Wireless, Inc. MC8775.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is one caveat, however: some laptop models have a locked-down BIOS that will refuse to boot an operating system if a third-party WWAN adapter is found. HP is notorious for this—so check before you buy!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://h-node.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6652" RevisionGUID="a741ac98-585f-4add-86a7-55a1edeb3318" CreationDate="2017-01-13T19:29:24.127" UserId="5368" Text="I am in the process of designing a cryptographic Proof of Storage (PoS) that relies on **single threaded** computation of `SHA256` hashes. In practice, my algorithm is equivalent to computing for some string `S` the value `SHA256^N(S) = SHA256(SHA256(SHA256(...(SHA256(S))))`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This forces anything computing that function to use only one thread, as each `SHA256` step needs the output of the previous as input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I know that ASIC miners exist that can compute `SHA256` hashes at an enormous rate. This, however, is due to their parallelism: completing Proofs of Work (i.e., finding zeros of hash functions) is an embarassingly parallel problem and can be computed very fast on massively parallel devices. This is **not** what I am looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is the fastest device that would be able to compute my function, i.e., single-threaded computation of a `SHA256`, then the `SHA256` of its output, the `SHA256` of the result and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought that maybe in this case the best hardware would be the fastest CPU in terms of single threaded performance: I found [here][1] that `Intel Core i7-7700K` could be a good place to start looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other known specialized hardware device that could carry out the task faster?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19784" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6652" RevisionGUID="a741ac98-585f-4add-86a7-55a1edeb3318" CreationDate="2017-01-13T19:29:24.127" UserId="5368" Text="Fastest device to perform single-threaded SHA256 hashing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19785" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6652" RevisionGUID="a741ac98-585f-4add-86a7-55a1edeb3318" CreationDate="2017-01-13T19:29:24.127" UserId="5368" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="ed704ae5-f8f2-4eee-a085-12f9128a751e" CreationDate="2017-01-13T21:36:51.713" UserId="3788" Comment="added details on distro and hardware used" Text="I am looking for an internal PCIe WWAN (UMTS or LTE) card that will work flawlessly with Linux (specifically Ubuntu, currently on 16.04) on a HP EliteBook 6930p. My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A internal device that I don't have to plug in before I can use it.&#xD;&#xA;2. All software (drivers etc.) available as packages from the standard repos&#xD;&#xA;3. Reliability, no major stability issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used a Huawei USB stick as well as an Option ExpressPort adapter, both of which were plug-and-play and worked reliably – were it not for the fact that they are additional external devices to carry around, violating #1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also tried two PCIe cards: one is the stock HP un2300 (GOBI 2000), which will not be recognized without [providing a firmware blob][2] (which needs to be extracted from the Windows driver package and placed somewhere in the filesystem) – which is a major hack operation and thus violates #2 (and still doesn't work after the operation, thus also violating #3). The other is an Ericsson F5521gw (tried in a different laptop), which is recognized instantly and requires no more than entering basic network parameters to connect – but will at some point go into sleep mode and never wake up again, thus violating #3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu has a list at https://wiki.ubuntu.com/NetworkManager/Hardware/3G, but it appears somewhat unclear as to what works out of the box and what requires hacking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC Engines has a short list of PCIe 3G modems supported by their hardware, which (among others) runs various flavors of Linux, but no information on support level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pfSense has a [list][1] of 3G/4G modems known to work. As pfSense is BSD-based, the list may be of limited relevance to Linux – though devices on the list are likely to have a free driver for a non-Windows OS, which in turn makes it likely that a Linux driver is also available for these devices (or will be at some point). On the other hand, the HP un2300 is also on the list, despite the requirement to download a firmware blob, just like its successor, the un2400 (GOBI 2000).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Does anyone know of PCIe UMTS adapters known to work with Ubuntu or Debian, or have any other way of figuring out whether I can expect a given device to work with Ubuntu (other than by trying it out)?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/Known_Working_3G-4G_Modems&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/456923/umts-hsdpa-data-sim-card-on-ubuntu-14-04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6651" RevisionGUID="f4e41b6a-054b-4357-87cf-9b691fe74200" CreationDate="2017-01-13T21:55:19.387" UserId="3788" Comment="details on WWAN whitelist in BIOS" Text="The FSF has [h-node][1], a database of hardware that works with free operating systems. Currently, the only PCIe WWAN adapter in the list is the Sierra Wireless, Inc. MC8775.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is one caveat, however: some laptop models have a BIOS that will refuse to boot an operating system if a third-party WWAN adapter is found which is not on a “whitelist” of the BIOS. HP is notorious for this, and the 6930p is among those models—so check before you buy! Alternatively, some sites offer BIOS upgrades which remove the whitelisting (just google “HP 6930p WWAN whitelist” for more information), no experience with that, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://h-node.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19791" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="3d03144c-95dc-4742-82b3-8eb96cbfbffe" CreationDate="2017-01-13T22:09:42.557" UserId="40" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some device that would allow me to use a [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) without having to hold it with my hand (i.e., to have a hands-free stenomask). I plan to use the stenomask for speech recognition with my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only options I have found so far are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Vocedit's Hands Free Mask Stand](http://vocedit.com/product6.html), which can accommodate either the Martel or the TalkTech stenomask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    They do seem to have some plan to improve the hands-free option though, according to this [Facebook comment](https://www.facebook.com/talktechnologies/posts/1779587142303957?comment_id=1779951535600851&amp;notif_t=feed_comment&amp;notif_id=1474499281861945):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Phil Kaufman's [Voxrite hands-free option](http://www.voxrite.com/shop/), but they do not to sold their hands-free device anymore (I was told they might sell them again in the future, to be checked in ~six months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are other devices achieving that goal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g57QC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsxrB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyERv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NPfZ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yaXnD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WNaP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19792" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6399" RevisionGUID="55071464-814c-4b22-af10-ea5e942f7797" CreationDate="2017-01-13T22:10:36.823" UserId="40" Comment="added 51 characters in body" Text="You can use [Vox Helpers](https://www.facebook.com/vox.helpers)' stenomask stand:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supports the [Sylencer SmartMic SM 100 and 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) &#xD;&#xA;- C-clamp is 2&quot; wide and easily attaches to most work spaces. Other options are available for an extra charge:&#xD;&#xA;- Mask can be easily removed in a second:&#xD;&#xA;- You can bind to the shape that you need no matter what you have to clamp it to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know the price though, and their [website](http://vox-helpers.com/) is down. It is unclear whether they can still be purchased.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some pictures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-hook that holds the Smartmic or mask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Close-up of Smartmic/mask holder without cover: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-clamp is 2&quot; wide and easily attaches to most work spaces. Other options are available for an extra charge:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C-clamp in horizontal position:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mask can be easily removed in a second:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can bind to the shape that you need no matter what you have to clamp it to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][14]][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/72jfk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIbNr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zreVk.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZJ7u.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTnCv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KO3Jz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZvAX.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kna5Q.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxU3k.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPkVF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNJfn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYZKC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SJcz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/asTDj.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="1e528b42-25f2-4d08-b166-8cd8b9469937" CreationDate="2017-01-13T22:16:11.140" UserId="40" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an indoor camera with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- night vision with infrared  (i.e. can see in a 100% dark room)&#xD;&#xA;- no Internet access needed &#xD;&#xA;- save video (e.g. on an SD card)&#xD;&#xA;- at least 480p&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't need to have a microphone but it is ok if it has one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a hard threshold on the price but below 100 USD sounds reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case: I am performing a study on sleep positions with several human subjects. Understandably, they want privacy, which an Internet access cannot guarantee.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found many cameras satisfying all requirements except the no Internet requirement, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [YI Dome Camera Pan/Tilt/Zoom Wireless IP Security Surveillance System 720p HD Night Vision (US Edition)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CW4BG4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;-  [FDT 720P HD WiFi Pan/Tilt IP Camera](https://www.amazon.com/FDT-Megapixel-Wireless-Security-Nightvision/dp/B01GF5M42A/ref=zg_bs_524136_36?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Zmodo 720p HD WiFi Wireless Smart Security Camera Two-Way Audio](https://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-Wireless-Security-Camera-Two-Way/dp/B01HH3UWU0/ref=zg_bs_524136_31?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related but different: [Security camera that doesn't use a third party](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2670/40)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19800" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5746" RevisionGUID="7babc611-e06e-468a-b3e1-3584cf64fed9" CreationDate="2017-01-14T00:26:13.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19801" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6134" RevisionGUID="36c46d79-1632-495a-9ce4-e50dc0c3ad43" CreationDate="2017-01-14T01:26:18.527" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19803" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5984" RevisionGUID="71be9df5-dfba-48b9-bd16-14e90403c7c9" CreationDate="2017-01-14T12:39:08.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6395" RevisionGUID="859adf44-0194-4af4-aac1-745d35c84a0b" CreationDate="2017-01-14T16:46:13.997" UserId="40" Comment="added 253 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some device that would allow me to use a [stenomask](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stenomask) without having to hold it with my hand (i.e., to have a hands-free stenomask). I plan to use the stenomask for speech recognition with my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only options I have found so far are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Vocedit's Hands Free Mask Stand](http://vocedit.com/product6.html), which can accommodate either the Martel or the TalkTech stenomask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5][![enter image description here][6]][6][![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The [Sylencer SmartMic SM 200](http://talktech.com/products/speech-recognition-smartmic/) has a snap-on head-strap option available, but the strap is not comfortable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    They do seem to have some plan to improve the hands-free option though, according to this [Facebook comment](https://www.facebook.com/talktechnologies/posts/1779587142303957?comment_id=1779951535600851&amp;notif_t=feed_comment&amp;notif_id=1474499281861945):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Phil Kaufman's [Voxrite hands-free option](http://www.voxrite.com/shop/), but they do not to sold their hands-free device anymore (I was told they might sell them again in the future, to be checked in ~six months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are other devices achieving that goal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g57QC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsxrB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyERv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NPfZ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPShM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vELcd.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X89O.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yaXnD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WNaP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19821" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="b152e946-2110-4bf3-8ed9-ba81c3cbcba4" CreationDate="2017-01-15T05:02:13.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6662" RevisionGUID="e23bbc91-fe30-44ec-b4e7-815a00c7d58d" CreationDate="2017-01-15T12:28:11.290" UserId="5381" Text="In addition the the GeChic (there's 13 and 15 inch versions), there is an Acer that claims to have Mini-HDMI input: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer DA220HQL 21.5-Inch Android All-in-One Touchscreen Desktop &#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Acer-DA220HQL-21-5-Inch-Android-Touchscreen/dp/B00CHYKVPQ&#xD;&#xA;$500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that there's a HD900 thing that's a bit hard to get&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HD900vision - SHENZHEN G-VISION TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD&#xD;&#xA;http://www.flysight.com/otherbar1734363.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And not much else" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19827" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6627" RevisionGUID="d65d33d3-2bff-4789-a324-23e1b24ca5ef" CreationDate="2017-01-15T12:36:59.627" UserId="-1" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="19828" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="cc21db29-2175-43d4-a5e1-e487dca223e6" CreationDate="2017-01-15T15:13:26.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19832" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6663" RevisionGUID="fa1db19c-a35d-45b7-ae3e-2292101af519" CreationDate="2017-01-15T23:54:46.127" UserId="5383" Text="I need a belt-mounted device with about 5 buttons which can communicate wirelessly with a computer. Specifically, when the user presses a button I need to be able to detect it in my Unity application so I can trigger certain events.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device will be used while the user is being tracked by a motion capture system (either a Kinect or a mocap suit), so ideally it would be easy to press buttons without the need to look down at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like a [Wireless Numeric Keypad][1] would be ideal on the software side as I'd be able to just treat it like a regular keyboard in Unity, but physically it's larger than I'd like and I don't need nearly that many buttons. It would also require a bit of work to mount on a belt (though that's not much of an issue).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.targus.com/us/wireless-numeric-keypad-akp11us" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19833" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6663" RevisionGUID="fa1db19c-a35d-45b7-ae3e-2292101af519" CreationDate="2017-01-15T23:54:46.127" UserId="5383" Text="Belt-mounted remote with ~5 buttons to communicate with Unity application" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19834" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6663" RevisionGUID="fa1db19c-a35d-45b7-ae3e-2292101af519" CreationDate="2017-01-15T23:54:46.127" UserId="5383" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="1065be6e-9e7f-488d-b6f2-e67143bc86de" CreationDate="2017-01-16T01:29:41.760" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="80ea7716-9cf3-42ec-b51a-489733def103" CreationDate="2017-01-16T15:14:47.100" UserId="134" Text="I need a WLAN router that can spoof MAC addresses. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to connect to a network which only allows certain MAC addresses. I have access to this network with the MAC address of my Ethernet adapter. Now I want to connect to the network also with my WLAN adapter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I need the functionality to spoof the MAC address of my WLAN adapter when connected to the WLAN router which is connected to the restricted network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most WLAN routers I know of do not support this feature. Is there one that does?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19849" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="80ea7716-9cf3-42ec-b51a-489733def103" CreationDate="2017-01-16T15:14:47.100" UserId="134" Text="MAC Address spoofing WLAN router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19850" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="80ea7716-9cf3-42ec-b51a-489733def103" CreationDate="2017-01-16T15:14:47.100" UserId="134" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19851" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="c0752cae-d093-4779-857b-3a988cee5c38" CreationDate="2017-01-16T15:36:17.753" UserId="134" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need a wireless router that can spoof MAC addresses. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to connect to a network which only allows certain MAC addresses. I have access to this network with the MAC address of my Ethernet adapter. Now I want to connect to the network also with my wireless adapter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I need the functionality to spoof the MAC address of my WIFI adapter when connected to the wireless router which is connected to the restricted network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most wireless routers I know of do not support this feature. Is there one that does?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19852" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="c0752cae-d093-4779-857b-3a988cee5c38" CreationDate="2017-01-16T15:36:17.753" UserId="134" Comment="added 16 characters in body; edited title" Text="MAC Address spoofing wireless router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19854" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6667" RevisionGUID="903ab746-f7fb-493c-a601-ab9595f090a1" CreationDate="2017-01-16T16:17:22.673" UserId="134" Comment="edited title" Text="MAC Address spoofing/cloning wireless router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6668" RevisionGUID="759dfe4e-cd66-4077-91fb-6e311688e280" CreationDate="2017-01-16T18:57:27.583" UserId="5359" Text="My router that I use has this feature. It is called MAC cloning.&#xD;&#xA;They currently go for less than $30 on Amazon. They are a bit dated but will give you an idea what to look for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Asus - RT-N12B1](https://www.amazon.com/RT-N12-Wireless-N-Advance-coverage-Router/dp/B005EIH4DE)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6670" RevisionGUID="13ef584d-7013-4339-a0c6-1f175253a5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-17T07:44:02.380" UserId="5392" Text="I just wanted to know if A4TECH PK-900H webcam work on ubuntu or if someone has used it with ubuntu or any linux OS or raspberry pi. Actually I want to use two cameras of the same model mentioned above for openCV project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.a4tech.com/w_product.asp?cid=229&amp;scid=&amp;id=872&quot;&gt;Official Website A4TECH PK-900H&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19866" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6670" RevisionGUID="13ef584d-7013-4339-a0c6-1f175253a5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-17T07:44:02.380" UserId="5392" Text="Will A4TECH PK-900H webcam work on ubuntu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19867" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6670" RevisionGUID="13ef584d-7013-4339-a0c6-1f175253a5f6" CreationDate="2017-01-17T07:44:02.380" UserId="5392" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19871" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6670" RevisionGUID="71278ac5-324b-4d5d-864a-4a55ee0f1f39" CreationDate="2017-01-17T10:36:21.700" UserId="203" Comment="Changed from borderline technical support to clear recommendation request" Text="I would like to buy a webcam to use for computer vision. It should cost no more than $35, preferably around $20, and have high resolution and low sensor noise. a 1920x1080 sensor would be ideal. It must also be usable in OpenCV on Ubuntu, or another Linux distribution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My research has led me to the [A4TECH PK-900H](http://www.a4tech.com/w_product.asp?cid=229&amp;scid=&amp;id=872), which is quite cheap, but I don't know if it supports Ubuntu or not. Are there any high quality webcams that support Ubuntu, or another Linux distribution, and costs around $20?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19872" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6670" RevisionGUID="71278ac5-324b-4d5d-864a-4a55ee0f1f39" CreationDate="2017-01-17T10:36:21.700" UserId="203" Comment="Changed from borderline technical support to clear recommendation request" Text="Linux Supported Webcam for OpenCV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6672" RevisionGUID="dcf90d2e-cda5-4160-8d3d-bd91fefed597" CreationDate="2017-01-17T18:08:20.340" UserId="5396" Text="I am preparing to build a new tower, the first in a long time, and am aiming for it to be a &quot;baseline&quot; for upgrades for a long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used with a dual boot Windows 7 / Debian, Windows for gaming and Debian for everyday tasks (multimedia) and programming (nothing CPU intensive yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The goal is to have it built for a relatively low price, performance be damned now if must be since I don't have a lot of PC games yet, but I value the future proofing above all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hesitating between three processor, the difference in price is not *that* huge, but the sockets are different, and I'd like to know that when time's come, I ll not have to buy a new motherboard with the next processor too because I have choosen the wrong socket.  &#xD;&#xA;I'd also would like to have the more bang for my buck, since I am on a tigh budget for my ambitions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i7-5820K, socket 2011-v3, 440€&#xD;&#xA;- i7-7700K, socket 1151, 410€&#xD;&#xA;- i7-4790K, socket 1150, 400€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19875" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6672" RevisionGUID="dcf90d2e-cda5-4160-8d3d-bd91fefed597" CreationDate="2017-01-17T18:08:20.340" UserId="5396" Text="Processor socket, 2011-v3, 1151 or 1150?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19876" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6672" RevisionGUID="dcf90d2e-cda5-4160-8d3d-bd91fefed597" CreationDate="2017-01-17T18:08:20.340" UserId="5396" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6673" RevisionGUID="18a86857-555a-43bd-b04e-694dac1eb67b" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:14:43.677" UserId="4504" Text="For longevity... I would go with the kabby lake processor. the i7-7700K.  It is the most recent, and you will get the most life out of it.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Do I recommend upgrading from the 5820 or 4790 to the 7700? No. Because the difference between them is minor. Intel has been gearing their cpu improvements towards lower tdp not raw horse power. Now, the lower tdp does offer more overclocking headroom, but I'll save that for the bottom of this answer. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Here is a Linus Tech Tips forum article about it.][1] It summarizes my feelings on the subject. If you have an i7 4790k or i7 5820k it's simply not worth the upgrade. BUT if your starting with a fresh build, its worth buying into it now.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My overclocking statement. The benefit to having a lower tdp is more overclocking headroom, and with proper cooling you can exploit that. Being able to overclock will definitely buy you some time when your computer is starting to show its age. I currently have a 4790k, I have not overclocked it yet mainly because I don't have an aftermarket cooler yet... but the minute it starts to slow down, its the first thing I'm going to do.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;There are quite a few people here better prepared to answer this question and I would love for them to chime in as well. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/724451-intels-new-i7-7700k-should-you-buy-it/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19878" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="f6e413cb-df9e-41e8-8665-a027d1b3fe11" CreationDate="2017-01-17T22:22:07.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6675" RevisionGUID="79b598d7-bf40-45b7-87a0-da728d30b723" CreationDate="2017-01-18T01:33:14.480" UserId="5399" Text="I recently bought the Galaxy Tab S2, 9.7&quot; (T813; Android Marshmallow) thinking I could simultaneously charge it and read files from a standard USB drive using a cable such as one found [here][1]. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, once I got my tablet and went to buy the above cable, I saw in the comments that it does *not* charge the tablet (the female micro USB extension must just *read* micro USB drives). I've looked at countless cables like the one above, and all of them say the same thing in the comments - they do *not* charge the tablet (parent device).&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For work, I keep my files on a standard USB, as I use multiple devices on a given day and need to be able to access my files on all of them (cloud isn't an option for me for various reasons, so please do not recommend that as a solution). Thus, there will be instances where I'll need to charge my tablet and simultaneously read files from a USB drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I need a cord that *looks* exactly like the one at the above link, but **where the female micro USB port actually charges the tablet (parent device) when the micro USB charging cable is plugged into it** (and obviously the female standard USB reads files from my USB drive). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Does anyone know of a cable that achieves these two things?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I've already explored this issue via:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Samsung customer service (*multiple times to see if I could get different answers*)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Samsung community forum (*no responses to-date*)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Reading Amazon product descriptions and reviews&#xD;&#xA; 4. Asking other Amazon customers (*no knowledge of such a product*)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Asking Best Buy employees (*didn't know cables wouldn't charge*)&#xD;&#xA; 6. Internet searches&#xD;&#xA; 7. Facebook crowdsourcing (*no responses*)&#xD;&#xA; 8. Asking a family member who works in IT (*not aware of any such product*)&#xD;&#xA; 9. Android Enthusiasts StackExchange (*question on hold as possibly irrelevant on that forum; recommended I try here*)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After all of this, I've come up with nothing and am running out of resources. Please help (begging/desperate/etc.). I need to figure out if this tablet will work for me or if I need to return it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_12?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2086U0HXZJZIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19885" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6675" RevisionGUID="79b598d7-bf40-45b7-87a0-da728d30b723" CreationDate="2017-01-18T01:33:14.480" UserId="5399" Text="Micro USB splitting cable that allows charging and reads standard USB simultaneously (Samsung Tab S2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19886" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6675" RevisionGUID="79b598d7-bf40-45b7-87a0-da728d30b723" CreationDate="2017-01-18T01:33:14.480" UserId="5399" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19892" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="5ebab4df-49c2-4a03-a9e1-00d262640500" CreationDate="2017-01-18T03:25:01.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6676" RevisionGUID="8e7d006b-7b7e-4f2c-b7b6-92c579cceecf" CreationDate="2017-01-18T05:40:45.780" UserId="5401" Text="I am looking for a solution using hardware and/or software to display content which is split into two LCD screens side-by-side (like in desktop systems with two monitors) for Android tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There will be two touch screens of 1080 x 800px resolution each and will take input from both touch and display, becoming a extension of the first screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either 32 or 64 bit ARM processor is okay as long as the problem is solved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found Rockchip RK3288 supports dual screen but not sure if it makes a copy of the first screen or extends the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any pointers to using special off-the-shelf circuit or configuration will be of great help too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6676" RevisionGUID="8e7d006b-7b7e-4f2c-b7b6-92c579cceecf" CreationDate="2017-01-18T05:40:45.780" UserId="5401" Text="Dual screen support on Android tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6676" RevisionGUID="8e7d006b-7b7e-4f2c-b7b6-92c579cceecf" CreationDate="2017-01-18T05:40:45.780" UserId="5401" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6679" RevisionGUID="4201e892-7fd8-4763-a599-50603005d779" CreationDate="2017-01-18T10:26:26.577" UserId="2198" Text="I suggest you to read these articles: for 2011-v3 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-x299-chipset-skylake-x-kaby-lake-x/ and for 1151 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-cannonlake-cpu-300-motherboards-2017/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They clearly explain that the x99 / 2011-v3 socket and x200 / 1151 won't last more than few months, since it's almost certain that intel won't support them with newer cpus (skylake-x and cannonlake).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you repeated a lot the word FUTURE I have to say that you have chosen sockets/chipset that won't be upgraded anymore by Intel with newer CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So one option is to choose the 2011-v3 platform with the right motherboard because you can buy now a Core i7-5820K (3.3GHz, L3:15M, 6C, HT, 140W, rev.R2) and in the future update it to a, for example, Intel Xeon E5-2687W-v4 (3.0G,160W,L3:30M,12C,HT) with less money than today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option is to wait for the firt next platform from x299 o cannonlake chipset 300 and you will be sure that for other 2 generations of processors you will be able to upgrade them. I would suggest cannonlake cpu that will be also 6/8 cores (plus HT) instead of the top cpu of 1151 that is only 4 cores (plus HT)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19903" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6679" RevisionGUID="3fad8cec-a5e9-437a-9191-36dd71f337d2" CreationDate="2017-01-18T10:37:52.140" UserId="2198" Comment="added 401 characters in body" Text="I suggest you to read these articles: for 2011-v3 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-x299-chipset-skylake-x-kaby-lake-x/ and for 1151 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-cannonlake-cpu-300-motherboards-2017/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They clearly explain that the x99 / 2011-v3 socket and x200 / 1151 won't last more than few months, since it's almost certain that intel won't support them with newer cpus (skylake-x and cannonlake/coffelake).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you repeated a lot the word FUTURE I have to say that you have chosen sockets/chipset that won't be upgraded anymore by Intel with newer CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So one option is to buy something NOW, and I suggest to choose the 2011-v3 platform with the right motherboard because you are sure that can buy now a Core i7-5820K (3.3GHz, L3:15M, 6C, HT, 140W, rev.R2) and in the future update it to a, for example, Intel Xeon E5-2687W-v4 (3.0G,160W,L3:30M,12C,HT) with less money than today (also selling your first CPU).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option is to wait for the next first next platform between X299 or cannonlake/coffelake chipset 300 and you will be sure that for other 2 generations of processors you will be able to upgrade them. I would suggest cannonlake cpu that will be also 6/8 cores (plus HT) instead of the top cpu of 1151 that is only 4 cores (plus HT). Sadly my last phrase has no direct support from leaked slides (see: http://wccftech.com/intel-roadmap-kaby-lake-coffee-lake-cannonlake-leak/) so it could be taken as a speculation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take into account also that this year AMD will show ZEN CPU and in function of the real value/performance of the platform I think that INTEL will be forced, or not, to push to an higher rate of cores on mainstream cpu sector&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19904" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6679" RevisionGUID="0b9517be-376c-494d-99e2-425690a4f714" CreationDate="2017-01-18T10:53:23.143" UserId="2198" Comment="added 104 characters in body" Text="I suggest you to read these articles: for 2011-v3 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-x299-chipset-skylake-x-kaby-lake-x/ and for 1151 successor&#xD;&#xA;http://wccftech.com/intel-cannonlake-cpu-300-motherboards-2017/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They clearly explain that the x99 / 2011-v3 socket and x200 / 1151 won't last more than few months, since it's almost certain that intel won't support them with newer cpus (skylake-x and cannonlake/coffelake).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you repeated a lot the word FUTURE I have to say that you have chosen sockets/chipset that won't be upgraded anymore by Intel with newer CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So one option is to buy something NOW, and I suggest to choose the 2011-v3 platform with the right motherboard because you are sure that can buy now a Core i7-5820K (3.3GHz, L3:15M, 6C, HT, 140W, rev.R2) and in the future update it to a, for example, Intel Xeon E5-2687W-v4 (3.0G,160W,L3:30M,12C,HT) with less money than today (also selling your first CPU).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option is to wait for the next first next platform between X299 or cannonlake/coffelake chipset 300 and you will be sure that for other 2 generations of processors you will be able to upgrade them. I would suggest cannonlake cpu that will be also 6/8 cores (plus HT) instead of the top cpu of 1151 that is only 4 cores (plus HT). Sadly my last phrase has no direct support from leaked slides (see: http://wccftech.com/intel-roadmap-kaby-lake-coffee-lake-cannonlake-leak/ and: http://www.fool.com/investing/2016/09/14/exclusive-the-secret-of-intel-corporations-coffee.aspx ) so it could be taken as a speculation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take into account also that this year AMD will show ZEN CPU and in function of the real value/performance of the platform I think that INTEL will be forced, or not, to push to an higher rate of cores on mainstream cpu sector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19905" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6672" RevisionGUID="dad16088-24ec-4d8d-a3c8-a3367c7ea81c" CreationDate="2017-01-18T11:25:56.070" UserId="5396" Comment="added 493 characters in body" Text="I am preparing to build a new tower, the first in a long time, and am aiming for it to be a &quot;baseline&quot; for upgrades for a long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be used with a dual boot Windows 7 / Debian, Windows for gaming and Debian for everyday tasks (multimedia) and programming (nothing CPU intensive yet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The goal is to have it built for a relatively low price, performance be damned now if must be since I don't have a lot of PC games yet, but I value the future proofing above all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hesitating between three processor, the difference in price is not *that* huge, but the sockets are different, and I'd like to know that when time's come, I ll not have to buy a new motherboard with the next processor too because I have choosen the wrong socket.  &#xD;&#xA;I'd also would like to have the more bang for my buck, since I am on a tigh budget for my ambitions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i7-5820K, socket 2011-v3, 440€&#xD;&#xA;- i7-7700K, socket 1151, 410€&#xD;&#xA;- i7-4790K, socket 1150, 400€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To clarify a few point, my main worry is to, in some year when the processor will start to get old, have to change the motherboard with it because of a change of socket, followed by changing something else because X is not compatible with the new motherboard, and things cascading in buying almost a new PC.  &#xD;&#xA;I am also not in a hurry, so if the release date of a new socket type that will be supported longer is scheduled for soon (&lt;1year), I am also comfortable waiting for it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19906" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="2406c7d2-83b8-46f1-9747-641af05d5b62" CreationDate="2017-01-18T12:53:43.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6681" RevisionGUID="68deed8a-ab4a-446d-bafa-a3dd14d9f6e0" CreationDate="2017-01-18T18:41:02.943" UserId="5001" Text="I did quite a bit of research on this issue and it seems that all the cables that you are looking at tend to be unreliable / don't work / only provide 1000ma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are additional options that include rooting your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After coming to the conclusion that they were not &quot;GOOD&quot; options I found the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RavPower Filehub @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Companion-6000mAh-External/dp/B00L9TEIMW/ref=pd_cp_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0ME6QS7KX367PPSE8TCA&amp;m1k=vb_ac&amp;tag=androidforums-20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product has good reviews and will allow you to bridge your tablet to a wired or wireless network.  Additionally you get the convenience of being able to to use Micro SD cards as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While there are other options there is not guarantee that they will work and this is the only full proof solution I could find for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6689" RevisionGUID="c12f2cb6-db3a-4165-877c-840c0be2234f" CreationDate="2017-01-20T08:56:58.900" UserId="5426" Text="Hi I have been trying to send different IR signals over multiple pins using an Arduino Uno. I have been using the [**IRremote**][1] library. It's not possible with Arduino so I am looking for an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I am looking for a replacement IC chip or microcontroller to use instead of the Arduino Uno. As long as it can send IR signals over 3 or more pins and is programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Here**][2] and [**Here**][3] are questions I asked regarding my IR pin problem if you are interested. It helps explain the situation I'm in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line I need any kind of circiut that can send IR signals over multiple pins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/z3t0/Arduino-IRremote&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/33556/how-to-choose-a-transmit-pin-in-the-irremote-library-for-an-arduino-uno&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/33517/manipulating-3-ir-leds-on-arduino-uno" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19951" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6689" RevisionGUID="c12f2cb6-db3a-4165-877c-840c0be2234f" CreationDate="2017-01-20T08:56:58.900" UserId="5426" Text="IC chip which can send a different IR signal from multiple pins" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19952" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6689" RevisionGUID="c12f2cb6-db3a-4165-877c-840c0be2234f" CreationDate="2017-01-20T08:56:58.900" UserId="5426" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6689" RevisionGUID="f68bee0a-698f-4fb0-9d10-8baa621ee67b" CreationDate="2017-01-20T09:32:01.680" UserId="5426" Comment="added 83 characters in body" Text="Hi I have been trying to send different IR signals over multiple pins using an Arduino Uno. I have been using the [**IRremote**][1] library. It's not possible with Arduino so I am looking for an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I am looking for a replacement IC chip or microcontroller to use instead of the Arduino Uno. As long as it can send IR signals over 3 or more pins and is programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Here**][2] and [**Here**][3] are questions I asked regarding my IR pin problem if you are interested. It helps explain the situation I'm in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line I need any kind of circiut that can send IR signals over multiple pins[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/z3t0/Arduino-IRremote&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/33556/how-to-choose-a-transmit-pin-in-the-irremote-library-for-an-arduino-uno&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/33517/manipulating-3-ir-leds-on-arduino-uno&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPt7y.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6690" RevisionGUID="c0a950ad-71d2-45ff-b7cc-79aa417c9e72" CreationDate="2017-01-20T09:54:44.860" UserId="5428" Text="Im looking for compact **wireless** keyboard **with trackball** that would work with 12 or 14 **Ubuntu**. Ive searched on Q&amp;A forums and didnt get answer ecxept most of them wouldnt work at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example i was looking for something like that http://www.trust.com/en/product/17911-adura-wireless-multimedia-keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be verry gratefull if someone give me model that works. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6690" RevisionGUID="c0a950ad-71d2-45ff-b7cc-79aa417c9e72" CreationDate="2017-01-20T09:54:44.860" UserId="5428" Text="Ubuntu compatible wireless trackball keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6690" RevisionGUID="c0a950ad-71d2-45ff-b7cc-79aa417c9e72" CreationDate="2017-01-20T09:54:44.860" UserId="5428" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6690" RevisionGUID="600fa717-57e3-45b4-80c1-fdd9d3dcb153" CreationDate="2017-01-20T12:20:55.667" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 77 characters in body" Text="Im looking for compact **wireless** keyboard **with trackball** that would work with 12 or 14 **Ubuntu**. Ive searched on Q&amp;A forums and didnt get answer ecxept most of them wouldnt work at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example i was looking for something like that http://www.trust.com/en/product/17911-adura-wireless-multimedia-keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6691" RevisionGUID="9689cf07-00e7-4686-b1a8-6f503fd750ae" CreationDate="2017-01-20T15:01:51.717" UserId="5001" Text="I have found a list of ELinux compatible keyboards [Here](http://elinux.org/RPi_USB_Keyboards) there are quite a few with trackballs to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically the LC-Power K1000BMW has been tested with Debian 6.0.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also found that the [Emprex 9039ARF III](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Emprex-9039ARF-Wireless-Keyboard-Intergrated/dp/B00393P10E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) has customer reviews that confirm its functionality in Ubuntu Squeeze as well as another version of linux that the customer did not specify&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly and probably your best option is the [IOGear 2.4GHz](https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Keyboard-Trackball-GKM681R/dp/B004OBAJCA) as I was able to find CONFIRMED customer interaction specifically for Ubuntu compatibility." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6681" RevisionGUID="8d5dd7db-d2f7-463d-845c-6ed550592a26" CreationDate="2017-01-20T16:26:41.763" UserId="5001" Comment="Added explanation of device use and link to manual" Text="I did quite a bit of research on this issue and it seems that all the cables that you are looking at tend to be unreliable / don't work / only provide 1000ma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are additional options that include rooting your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After coming to the conclusion that they were not &quot;GOOD&quot; options I found the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RavPower Filehub @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Companion-6000mAh-External/dp/B00L9TEIMW/ref=pd_cp_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0ME6QS7KX367PPSE8TCA&amp;m1k=vb_ac&amp;tag=androidforums-20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product has good reviews and will allow you to bridge your tablet to a wired or wireless network.  Additionally you get the convenience of being able to to use Micro SD cards as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While there are other options there is not guarantee that they will work and this is the only full proof solution I could find for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDITS: (To explain functionality of device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;YOU DO NOT NEED TO ROOT YOUR DEVICE FOR THIS TO WORK!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This device is a wireless / network bridge.  Effectively you would connect this device to you existing wired / wireless network and it will create a secondary wireless network for your tablet to connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can plug your USB or SD Card into the device (Or even a USB hard drive) and then you can access the files on them through either a web browser by connecting to the ip address of the RavPower Filehub or by using the FileHub app that can be downloaded on your tablet. [Link to Product Manual](https://www.ravpower.com/support/product/manual/view/MTEz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as charging your device too it only provides 1 amp of power so some devices will not charge.  That being said the port on the tablet will not be used so you can easily plug in your power cord." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19962" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6681" RevisionGUID="57e8b563-4271-40c9-a447-bc3b2af4a884" CreationDate="2017-01-20T16:36:13.113" UserId="5001" Comment="Quick edit capitalization and reference" Text="I did quite a bit of research on this issue and it seems that all the cables that you are looking at tend to be unreliable / don't work / only provide 1000ma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are additional options that include rooting your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After coming to the conclusion that they were not &quot;GOOD&quot; options I found the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RavPower Filehub @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Companion-6000mAh-External/dp/B00L9TEIMW/ref=pd_cp_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0ME6QS7KX367PPSE8TCA&amp;m1k=vb_ac&amp;tag=androidforums-20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product has good reviews and will allow you to bridge your tablet to a wired or wireless network.  Additionally you get the convenience of being able to to use Micro SD cards as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While there are other options there is not guarantee that they will work and this is the only full proof solution I could find for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDITS: (To explain functionality of device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You DO NOT need to root your device for this to work as mentioned about other devices in the comments above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This device is a wireless / network bridge.  Effectively you would connect this device to you existing wired / wireless network and it will create a secondary wireless network for your tablet to connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can plug your USB or SD Card into the device (Or even a USB hard drive) and then you can access the files on them through either a web browser by connecting to the ip address of the RavPower Filehub or by using the FileHub app that can be downloaded on your tablet. [Link to Product Manual](https://www.ravpower.com/support/product/manual/view/MTEz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as charging your device too it only provides 1 amp of power so some devices will not charge.  That being said the port on the tablet will not be used so you can easily plug in your power cord." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="f481b701-3ed9-4a44-98e2-accec05a2ea4" CreationDate="2017-01-20T17:40:39.847" UserId="1249" Comment="added 265 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Typical graphic card draws power from PCIe slot (up to 75W) and the rest is taken from auxiliary 6 or 8 pin connectors (PEG). I have a &lt;s&gt;non-conforming&lt;/s&gt; motherboard that says &quot;25W max&quot; on PCIe slot, hence I'm looking for a card that takes close to 100% of its power draw from the PEG(s). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I'm NOT looking for a card with 25W total power. Total power is not limited, only the balance between PCIe and PEG. A GTX1070 at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about powered riser, I consider using it as a fallback option in case such card doesn't exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Description of my system for those who are curious: It's a Thin-mini-ITX and as such it's not supposed to support any graphic card. Board is [Gigabyte GA-H81TN][1]. As Thin specs call for, this board is powered by external 19V supply and all the ATX voltages required by PCIe slot are derived by onboard regulator. The 25W limit is the limit of this regulator which is part of the board and not replaceable. I also have 200W Dell DA-2 12V/18A brick to provide 12V to the card via PEG, similarly to [external gpu via thunderbolt hack][2]. I know that with only 4 lanes the performance won't be stellar, and the very point of a Thin system is to be very small - but I want to give it a try just for kicks. There is no chasis, as it's just one board so it sits on the desk on an insulating mat, which means that there are really no limits on the card except from PCIe power draw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;/edit: As I've just learned, the PCIe power limit is tied to card length. Cards shorter than 16x are not supposed to ever draw more than 25W. The slot is open-ended but it's a 4x slot nevertheless so the power limit is something to be actually expected. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4752&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://odd-one-out.serek.eu/thunderbolt-2-egpu-setup-using-akitio-thunder2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19964" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6579" RevisionGUID="f481b701-3ed9-4a44-98e2-accec05a2ea4" CreationDate="2017-01-20T17:40:39.847" UserId="1249" Comment="added 265 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6681" RevisionGUID="4dd30a6e-38e9-47fb-ab4e-6ae02d71eb10" CreationDate="2017-01-20T17:48:48.263" UserId="5001" Comment="Size added" Text="I did quite a bit of research on this issue and it seems that all the cables that you are looking at tend to be unreliable / don't work / only provide 1000ma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are additional options that include rooting your device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After coming to the conclusion that they were not &quot;GOOD&quot; options I found the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[RavPower Filehub @ Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Companion-6000mAh-External/dp/B00L9TEIMW/ref=pd_cp_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0ME6QS7KX367PPSE8TCA&amp;m1k=vb_ac&amp;tag=androidforums-20)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product has good reviews and will allow you to bridge your tablet to a wired or wireless network.  Additionally you get the convenience of being able to to use Micro SD cards as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While there are other options there is not guarantee that they will work and this is the only full proof solution I could find for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDITS: (To explain functionality of device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You DO NOT need to root your device for this to work as mentioned about other devices in the comments above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This device is a wireless / network bridge.  Effectively you would connect this device to you existing wired / wireless network and it will create a secondary wireless network for your tablet to connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can plug your USB or SD Card into the device (Or even a USB hard drive) and then you can access the files on them through either a web browser by connecting to the ip address of the RavPower Filehub or by using the FileHub app that can be downloaded on your tablet. [Link to Product Manual](https://www.ravpower.com/support/product/manual/view/MTEz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as charging your device too it only provides 1 amp of power so some devices will not charge.  That being said the port on the tablet will not be used so you can easily plug in your power cord.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2nd EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The product is only 2.9 inches x 2.7 inches x .9 inches so it is very portable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19971" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="cbf2c5ca-1773-4c39-a93a-4c20699a4cb6" CreationDate="2017-01-20T22:13:18.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19976" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="d4b5ed13-9008-41ef-bfdb-2177d077f72f" CreationDate="2017-01-21T03:13:22.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19977" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="39fc7f31-8ed3-405f-bb40-8fc0f54a7e9a" CreationDate="2017-01-21T05:15:15.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6693" RevisionGUID="dde0dae9-3e31-40b0-8bd9-622957101b19" CreationDate="2017-01-21T08:34:41.660" UserId="4786" Text="I'm building my first Gaming computer, and I need some help deciding which case to get for my motherboard of choice. The motherboard I have chosen is the MSI Z270 Series Gaming Motherboard ([link][1]). The problem I face, is that I don't know which case would fit this motherboard nicely. I don't want to buy a case that doesn't allow me to fit my motherboard. I do know that the motherboard is ATX, so that means I need an ATX case, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/asset/resize/image/global/product/product_9_20161213150334_584f9d46be2de.png62405b38c58fe0f07fcef2367d8a9ba1/1024.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6693" RevisionGUID="dde0dae9-3e31-40b0-8bd9-622957101b19" CreationDate="2017-01-21T08:34:41.660" UserId="4786" Text="PC Chassis for MSI Motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6693" RevisionGUID="dde0dae9-3e31-40b0-8bd9-622957101b19" CreationDate="2017-01-21T08:34:41.660" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6693" RevisionGUID="ecb3a55d-d7b7-4fe0-900d-2a5b14b356bc" CreationDate="2017-01-21T08:41:21.337" UserId="4786" Comment="added 275 characters in body" Text="I'm building my first Gaming computer, and I need some help deciding which case to get for my motherboard of choice. The motherboard I have chosen is the MSI Z270 Series Gaming Motherboard ([link][1]). The problem I face, is that I don't know which case would fit this motherboard nicely. I don't want to buy a case that doesn't allow me to fit my motherboard. I do know that the motherboard is ATX, so that means I need an ATX case, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case that I am looking for should contain the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to mount a SSD and HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Should be a full-on ATX Case (not MATX)&#xD;&#xA; - Mount a Corsair PSU&#xD;&#xA; - The case should have stand-offs already installed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to spend around $100-$120 on a case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/asset/resize/image/global/product/product_9_20161213150334_584f9d46be2de.png62405b38c58fe0f07fcef2367d8a9ba1/1024.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6694" RevisionGUID="43550a4b-84ae-42f2-a746-351f7553ae0a" CreationDate="2017-01-21T09:20:31.777" UserId="3980" Text="You might take a look at the [NZXT Source 530][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It fits all of your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can mount 1 SSD (2.5&quot;) and 1 HDD (3.5&quot;), however it does have space for additional drives (3x 5.25&quot;, 6x 2.5&quot; or 3.5&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Full Tower ATX case (Fits ATX motherboards and is a Full Tower)&#xD;&#xA; - Fits ATX PSUs&#xD;&#xA; - Has standoff points and standoffs included in the box&#xD;&#xA; - Within your budget. It can be found on [Amazon for $85][2], [Newegg for $85][3] and on [NZXT for $90][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a few nice features such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dust Filters&#xD;&#xA; - Mounts for water cooling&#xD;&#xA; - Modular drive cages&#xD;&#xA; - Space for several fans (7-9 fans max, dependent on fan diameter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/source-530&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUC6S5O/ref=asc_df_B00FUC6S5O4777185?tag=hawk-future-20&amp;creative=395261&amp;creativeASIN=B00FUC6S5O&amp;linkCode=asn&amp;ascsubtag=hawk-1403595563-20&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146114" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19986" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6696" RevisionGUID="5e23ffe5-c3d8-4199-a586-f4e43ba0110c" CreationDate="2017-01-21T17:56:13.557" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a device that can perform speech recognition and connect to a computer so that it acts as a keyboard. E.g., if I say &quot;hello&quot;, the device should send the keys &lt;kbd&gt;h&lt;/kbd&gt;,  &lt;kbd&gt;e&lt;/kbd&gt;  , &lt;kbd&gt;l&lt;/kbd&gt; , &lt;kbd&gt;l&lt;/kbd&gt; , &lt;kbd&gt;o&lt;/kbd&gt; to the computer.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am aware of [VoxCube](https://redd.it/5p3uxb) but it is currently just a prototype and not being sold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19987" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6696" RevisionGUID="5e23ffe5-c3d8-4199-a586-f4e43ba0110c" CreationDate="2017-01-21T17:56:13.557" UserId="40" Text="Speech recognition box that can act as a keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19988" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6696" RevisionGUID="5e23ffe5-c3d8-4199-a586-f4e43ba0110c" CreationDate="2017-01-21T17:56:13.557" UserId="40" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19989" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6697" RevisionGUID="9255585d-c7db-4c65-ac5c-bd7c16ca6715" CreationDate="2017-01-21T19:16:08.003" UserId="5432" Text="[Lenovo ThinkPad T460][1] supports up to 32GB RAM and can be ordered in such configuration. Price tag for most most basic config with 32GB RAM is $1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t460/#SYSTEM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6699" RevisionGUID="e5fe3d73-4691-4a0f-a1d2-edc67725001d" CreationDate="2017-01-21T20:51:33.847" UserId="5433" Text="I'm a web developer programming in PHP, using Photoshop now and then, running a VM during my work (Laravel's Homestead). I'm not a gamer, I don't work with 3D graphics or video-editing software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a laptop, meeting the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Budget**: up to 1300 USD&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel i5** and better&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM**: 8GB and more &#xD;&#xA; - **SSD**: 256GB and more &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen** **size**: 13&quot;-14&quot; &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen** **resolution**: 1920x1080 and more &#xD;&#xA; - **Keyboard** with nice travel (nothing shallow)&#xD;&#xA; - **Battery** **life**: 6h and more&#xD;&#xA; - **Manufacturers**: ASUS, Dell, Lenovo, Acer (the list is open)&#xD;&#xA; - (Mostly) **silent** work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've considered DELL XPS, DELL Latitude, ASUS Pro Advanced, ASUS Zenbook and Lenovo Thinkpad series, but would be great to also hear your recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6699" RevisionGUID="e5fe3d73-4691-4a0f-a1d2-edc67725001d" CreationDate="2017-01-21T20:51:33.847" UserId="5433" Text="Web development laptop up to 1300 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6699" RevisionGUID="e5fe3d73-4691-4a0f-a1d2-edc67725001d" CreationDate="2017-01-21T20:51:33.847" UserId="5433" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6699" RevisionGUID="1e1e7f3a-f9f3-4f07-bfa1-4831aa2023a6" CreationDate="2017-01-21T21:30:36.127" UserId="5433" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="I'm a web developer programming in PHP, using Photoshop now and then, running a VM during my work (Laravel's Homestead). I'm not a gamer, I don't work with 3D graphics or video-editing software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a laptop, meeting the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Budget**: up to 1300 USD&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel i5** and better&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM**: 8GB and more &#xD;&#xA; - **SSD**: 256GB and more &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen** **size**: 13&quot;-14&quot; &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen** **resolution**: 1920x1080 and more &#xD;&#xA; - **Keyboard** with nice travel (nothing shallow)&#xD;&#xA; - **Battery** **life**: 6h and more (being the matufacturer-promoted max time, not necessarily under constant stress)&#xD;&#xA; - **Manufacturers**: ASUS, Dell, Lenovo, Acer (the list is open)&#xD;&#xA; - (Mostly) **silent** work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've considered DELL XPS, DELL Latitude, ASUS Pro Advanced, ASUS Zenbook and Lenovo Thinkpad series, but would be great to also hear your recommendations." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19996" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="8f65db1f-90e6-4ed9-b673-35e4011c8633" CreationDate="2017-01-22T01:27:09.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="19998" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6700" RevisionGUID="7ccdd248-2ab6-40cd-a56e-d786d191cf82" CreationDate="2017-01-22T04:28:43.240" UserId="5434" Text="I would suggest going with lenovo due to ease of maintenance, durability and overall decent build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a Lenovo ThinkPad X260 that fits your specs. Their website claims that the machine has up to 21 hour battery life which is sort of crazy. There are various models, but all come with either intel core i5 or an i7 processor. It has 16 Gigs of ram, 500 gb to 1 TB hdd or a 128 to 512 gb ssd. Screen size is 12,5 inches but it has the resolution you seek, 1920x1080. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the extra information can be found on their website http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/x260/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price of the model with configuration that you seek is between $1200 and $1300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6701" RevisionGUID="f51a63d8-1660-4002-9e1d-2c91eaeeb224" CreationDate="2017-01-22T04:49:55.677" UserId="5434" Text="For $100 or less, I'd honestly suggest you to get a used PlayStation 3 since it can do the stuff you described you're looking for. It displays playing clips instead of icons for the files, has many sorting options, and supports h264 and can output the content at 1080p. Best part of all? It can upscale DVDs to 1080p as well, even the file stored on your hard drive. PS3 can also be configured to use a BD Remote but the joystick which comes with the system will do just fine as well. In addition to all of this, you will also be getting one of the best blu-ray players, should you get back to collecting movies and tv shows the physical way. The only downside is that it uses USB 2.0 and has one HDMI output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20000" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="f69deea4-9be3-48ad-8ce1-443be77a8957" CreationDate="2017-01-22T14:41:55.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="7ad506af-20f4-4045-baf1-eaf55356b8c4" CreationDate="2017-01-22T19:12:04.427" UserId="5001" Text="I am looking for a scale to use for a project.  I have scoured and found some options that are mostly for weighing humans and small items as well as some fully integrated systems for inventory management (Which are too expensive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The items that I need to weigh are approximately 4 feet long.  We need to be able to measure up to 40 lbs. at a minimum.  Accuracy is not that important, being off by up to 1 lb will not affect this particular project&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plan is to integrate these scales into a shelving systems and have them monitor the weight of the product in each location.  We will need to take the measurements from the scale and pass that back into our internal application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would consider using load sensors and effectively building our own platform but first want to reach out and see if anyone has seen such an animal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The secondary option would be to use multiple scales at each end of the shelve using the method show [Here](http://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/24778/how-do-you-weigh-a-box-on-a-scale-whose-limit-is-too-low). Who knew I would every use the Physics SE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly if a long scale is not an option and we have to move to the method show on Physics SE then we would like the scales to be as small as possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20002" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="7ad506af-20f4-4045-baf1-eaf55356b8c4" CreationDate="2017-01-22T19:12:04.427" UserId="5001" Text="Scale USB / Wireless / Bluetooth Connected" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20003" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="7ad506af-20f4-4045-baf1-eaf55356b8c4" CreationDate="2017-01-22T19:12:04.427" UserId="5001" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20004" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="0062c5a2-3034-4694-8609-1d585caf373a" CreationDate="2017-01-22T19:51:05.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20005" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="c3961ee2-50d5-4163-987b-991ce4194e5e" CreationDate="2017-01-22T22:51:15.880" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20012" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6700" RevisionGUID="fdba92c3-67c8-463d-8c31-96bc7b93bc6c" CreationDate="2017-01-23T04:25:59.713" UserId="5001" Comment="Made it much prettier and easier to read. Fixed a lot of character case issues and grammer" Text="I would suggest going with Lenovo due to ease of maintenance, durability and overall decent build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a Lenovo ThinkPad X260 that fits your specifications. Their website claims that the machine has up to 21 hour battery life which is sort of crazy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are various models, but they all come with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor:** Intel i5 or i7 &#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - **Storage:** 500GB - 1B HDD or 128GB to 512GB SSD &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen Size:** 12.5 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Resolution:** 1920x1080 &#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1200 - $1300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional information regarding this model can be found at the [Lenovo Website](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/x260/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price of the model with configuration that you seek is between $1200 and $1300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20013" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6700" RevisionGUID="fdba92c3-67c8-463d-8c31-96bc7b93bc6c" CreationDate="2017-01-23T04:25:59.713" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by -1 edit id of 563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20014" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6700" RevisionGUID="0cdfc764-c4ba-4419-9048-6e1ba6c052cf" CreationDate="2017-01-23T04:25:59.713" UserId="203" Comment="Made it much prettier and easier to read. Fixed a lot of character case issues and grammer" Text="I would suggest going with Lenovo due to ease of maintenance, durability and overall decent build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a Lenovo ThinkPad X260 that fits your specifications. Their website claims that the machine has up to 21 hour battery life which is sort of crazy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are various models, but they all come with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor:** Intel i5 or i7 &#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - **Storage:** 500GB - 1 TB HDD or 128GB to 512GB SSD &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen Size:** 12.5 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Resolution:** 1920x1080 &#xD;&#xA; - **Price:** $1200 - $1300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional information regarding this model can be found at the [Lenovo Website](http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/x260/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price of the model with configuration that you seek is between $1200 and $1300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20031" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="dc77d9dd-1411-43a0-bc9c-bd8a3523ca5b" CreationDate="2017-01-23T15:28:28.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6707" RevisionGUID="26445cfd-4d75-47e4-a65c-b72f7d8e3430" CreationDate="2017-01-23T20:26:18.943" UserId="4504" Text="I would recommend a piece of software called plex media server. With a piece of hardware to attach to your TV. Plex is very responsive on gen 1 amazon firesticks, so 35$ and you are off to the races.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Plex will sort and organize your videos. Along with downloading all of the metadata you'd like. Subtitles, links to trailers, poster art.. you name it..  With the firestick attached to your TV, you use the provided remote and just watch what you want. It won't use your internet, but will use your network to stream the content.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Plex.tv][1] is their website. They will try to upsell you a 5$ per month plan, you don't need it so don't bother signing up for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is the firestick, this one is 39.99 but comes with a voice controlled remote.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.plex.tv/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Side note, I'm a plex user and I also HATE how kodi looks. Welcome to plex my friend, welcome to plex. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20033" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="64ce10fe-f1ba-4580-860b-6bea429a09ee" CreationDate="2017-01-23T21:28:32.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="109bf9a1-07e0-435a-9c95-7b5870feceeb" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:11:44.350" UserId="5445" Text="There are three main ways to deliver 3D:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Anagylph, the type of 3D involving the old red-blue glasses&#xD;&#xA;- Passive 3D, the type of 3D you see in movie theaters nowadays involving circularly polarized light&#xD;&#xA;- Active 3D, the type of 3D found in most 3D glasses involving active-shutter glasses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you can view Anaglyph 3D on essentially any TV. And there are even products like [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005SN3INA) which takes 3D content designed for Passive or Active 3D and converts them to Anaglyph so they can be viewed on non-3D TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any products that allow you to view either active or passive 3D on a non-3D TV? It seems there was such a product called [3DNOW](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009E7WDLO) in 2012, but it appears to have been discontinued. Are there any similar products currently on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 4K TV, so resolution wouldn't be a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="109bf9a1-07e0-435a-9c95-7b5870feceeb" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:11:44.350" UserId="5445" Text="A product to watch 3D on a non-3D TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="109bf9a1-07e0-435a-9c95-7b5870feceeb" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:11:44.350" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="de43bdc2-8272-4cde-af3f-7da01345d0ac" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:54:48.007" UserId="5445" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20038" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="de43bdc2-8272-4cde-af3f-7da01345d0ac" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:54:48.007" UserId="5445" Text="A publicly available inside-out tracking VR headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20039" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="de43bdc2-8272-4cde-af3f-7da01345d0ac" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:54:48.007" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20044" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="338902a5-1e74-4c89-958d-430b67bc6f4c" CreationDate="2017-01-24T08:34:15.340" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="91844a92-806f-4899-8d50-487831bcdeb8" CreationDate="2017-01-24T19:34:07.197" UserId="5449" Text="So I use this USB to Sata + Power converter to hook up drives to my laptop like so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works for hard drives but not cd drives.&#xD;&#xA;I would like to be able to hot swap the same drive between a desktop and laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one for CD drives so it can be hot swapped between sata and usb?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEsli.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/b43W5.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20049" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="91844a92-806f-4899-8d50-487831bcdeb8" CreationDate="2017-01-24T19:34:07.197" UserId="5449" Text="External CD Drive That Doubles For Sata Access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20050" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="91844a92-806f-4899-8d50-487831bcdeb8" CreationDate="2017-01-24T19:34:07.197" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6712" RevisionGUID="d6f925ec-3ac5-4c3f-adfc-8c6c9c0ca300" CreationDate="2017-01-24T19:46:37.083" UserId="5449" Text="This appears to work but only works on the laptop cd drives.  Which means the power would be a problem on a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB 2.0 to 7+6 13Pin Slimline SATA Laptop CD/DVD Rom Optical Drive Adapter Cable Black/White&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/13Pin-Slimline-Laptop-Optical-Adapter/dp/B00C574Q5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485286747&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=external+cd+drive+with+sata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6713" RevisionGUID="ce062b06-a5a2-404f-a38d-dae9cd8f69e9" CreationDate="2017-01-24T20:27:38.050" UserId="5450" Text="I've seen only one so far, Bourge Design's Arc Hub:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bourgedesign.com/archub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't believe the hub is available yet, but it's scheduled for release within the next couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it's not suitable for my own needs, as the device's two type-C ports are apparently for charging only--no data. I also want &quot;Gen. 2&quot; type-A ports; the Arc seems to feature type-A Gen. 1 (USB 3.0)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6715" RevisionGUID="b1fcca3a-30c9-48cd-8791-36146d333e3d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T08:58:39.493" UserId="5454" Text="Im looking for a laptop as a mostly backend developer. i did some research but there is a few gaps in my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * price €1000 - 1500&#xD;&#xA; * Super fast processor, needs to run console applications + web + Visual studio/Rider and VS code.&#xD;&#xA; * Screen of +1080p  * 16gb+ memory, (for all the docker containers). (Will DDR4 Bring performance?)&#xD;&#xA; * SSD only (258GB is enough)&#xD;&#xA; * Graphics cards only if needed to render visual studio/Rider, otherwise rather use Intel Grapics.&#xD;&#xA; * Windows does not need to be installed. (Rather without, i'll probably run on linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For processors i ended up with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ci7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA;* Ci7-7700HQ (10% faster)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both quad and 8 threads (great for running these multiple applications).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Found laptops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* MSI GP62M 7RD-014NL (Leopard) €1200&#xD;&#xA;* HP 15-ax235nd  (Omen) €1400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my problem is that all these laptops are build and promoted as gaming laptops. All i'm looking for is fast processor, ssd and memory. Are there laptops specifically build for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6715" RevisionGUID="b1fcca3a-30c9-48cd-8791-36146d333e3d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T08:58:39.493" UserId="5454" Text="Laptop for developers (2017)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6715" RevisionGUID="b1fcca3a-30c9-48cd-8791-36146d333e3d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T08:58:39.493" UserId="5454" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20062" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6715" RevisionGUID="8989bea6-b1f1-4584-b4fc-ec16a83e8cf2" CreationDate="2017-01-25T09:36:38.080" UserId="5454" Comment="added 148 characters in body" Text="Im looking for a laptop as a mostly backend developer. i did some research but there is a few gaps in my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * price €1000 - 1500&#xD;&#xA; * Super fast processor, needs to run console applications + web + Visual studio/Rider and VS code.&#xD;&#xA; * Screen of +1080p  * 16gb+ memory, (for all the docker containers). (Will DDR4 Bring performance?)&#xD;&#xA; * SSD only (258GB is enough)&#xD;&#xA; * Graphics cards only if needed to render visual studio/Rider, otherwise rather use Intel Grapics.&#xD;&#xA; * Windows does not need to be installed. (Rather without, i'll probably run on linux)&#xD;&#xA; * its light, so i can take it anywhere. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For processors i ended up with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ci7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA;* Ci7-7700HQ (10% faster)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both quad and 8 threads (great for running these multiple applications).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Found laptops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* MSI GP62M 7RD-014NL (Leopard) €1200&#xD;&#xA;* HP 15-ax235nd  (Omen) €1400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my problem is that all these laptops are build and promoted as gaming laptops. I'm looking for a work laptop which i can take anywhere and doesn't really look like a gaming laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All i'm looking for is fast processor, ssd and memory. Are there laptops specifically build for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6717" RevisionGUID="59b15a43-e4b2-432c-ae72-33ba0b43305e" CreationDate="2017-01-25T12:40:23.130" UserId="4523" Text="I would go with the [Sager NP3245](https://www.sagernotebook.com/customize.php?productid=1157)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A configuration of a 256Gb m.2 SSD as the OS drive and storage drives leaves room for future upgrades.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does not come with a discrete GPU, but uses the on chip Intel graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has 8Gb, 16Gb, 32Gb Ram options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has other customization options, at the buyers discretion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20064" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6718" RevisionGUID="07b84ce7-b461-4796-a8ef-3c666cdabe1a" CreationDate="2017-01-25T13:01:52.950" UserId="3987" Text="For everyone with the same problem: i did it with an extra sat&gt;ip server, the digibit r1. It can be used in tvheadend seamlessly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6720" RevisionGUID="05726fa9-6aea-4aed-8be0-a824e92e9e7e" CreationDate="2017-01-25T15:13:32.413" UserId="5458" Text="My employer intends to purchase a laptop for me in the USA, then send it to me in South Africa. I've read that the GTX 10 series cards have desktop level performance even on laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've asked around, and Dell is really the only supplier that will support the laptop internationally.. i.e. I won't need to ship it all the way back to the USA if I need repairs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at local suppliers that have MSI and ASUS laptops with GTX1080's too.. but they are very bulky and look like too much like gaming rigs (which they are). This new alienware range actually looks a little more conservative and they're slimmer than the other gaming rigs. Ultimately the looks don't matter though. It's just a small consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: This isn't for gaming - it's for design work.. with a preference for fast render times in a laptop (I will be travelling a lot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking at the Alienware 17 R4 laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a 17inch UHD (3840 x 2160) IPS screen - so the color accuracy should be decent. It contains a GTX 1070 with 8GB GDDR5 Also it has: 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7820HK (Quad-Core, 8MB Cache, Overclocking up to 4.4GHz )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are 2 more expensive Alienware 17 configurations that have GTX 1080s, but they have TN panels.. so I'm leaning toward this IPS one. I intend to max out the RAM and take 3 years of Premium support and accident cover.. so the total cost comes to about $3100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with that budget in mind.. there's also the whole precision line from Dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The New Precision 5520&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's 15inch UltraSharp UHD IGZO (3840x2160) Touch Wide View LED-backlit with PremiumPanel Guarantee - so I guess this might be an even better screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I select specs like the highest end processor: Intel Core Xeon E3-1505M v6 (Quad Core Xeon 3.00GHz, 4.00GHz Turbo, 8MB 45W, w/Intel HD Graphics 630 32GB Ram, add the same HDD's as the alienware etc..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price comes to 3,014.90 (so basically the same as Alienware)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Graphics card difference would be that this has a Nvidia Quadro M1200 w/4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which of these 2 laptops do you think would render and work better in blender?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't do big complex scenes.. it's mostly simple product packaging and bottles.. some glass.. sometimes a simple area to display items like a table with light streaming in from a side window.. wooden surface sometimes. But nothing crazy. I do need to do A LOT of renders though.. so we need something snappy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6720" RevisionGUID="05726fa9-6aea-4aed-8be0-a824e92e9e7e" CreationDate="2017-01-25T15:13:32.413" UserId="5458" Text="Which Dell laptop is best for rendering - Alienware with a GTX 1070 or a Precision with Quadro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6720" RevisionGUID="05726fa9-6aea-4aed-8be0-a824e92e9e7e" CreationDate="2017-01-25T15:13:32.413" UserId="5458" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6721" RevisionGUID="965a8484-2331-477e-9b23-390fb6eb3eeb" CreationDate="2017-01-25T15:42:52.487" UserId="2607" Text="Dell. In your build, select the option for SSD. My recommendation would not be for touchscreen just yet on the 15&quot; screen because it isn't QUITE up to the level of larger displays used for rendering and image creation. Still keep the UHD screen though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You mentioned traveling. The Alienware laptop weighs in at a full 10lbs whereas the Dell weighs in at 3.9 lbs. The 17&quot; laptop isn't even close to ideal for traveling. That's really going to be the deciding factor here." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6722" RevisionGUID="d41c7cff-a2be-49b1-b504-f099ecd1a9e5" CreationDate="2017-01-25T16:20:05.070" UserId="3980" Text="I think that the Alienware with the GTX 1080 is going to work better for your application. When considering the GPU options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 vs Quadro M1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1070 has 1920 CUDA cores vs. [640 CUDA cores from the Quadro M1200][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 is rated for 6.5 TFLOPS vs. 1.4 TFLOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of benchmarks (these are the desktop versions, I can't find benchmarks for the m1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070: 10,973&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quadro K1200: 2992&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion, if you are looking for GPU power, the laptop with the GTX 1070 (Alienware) is going to be the better option, if you need professional driver support, then take the Quadro (Precision Workstation). I know there is driver [support for CUDA][2] 8.0 cards (in blender) so that isn't an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/5nt3ns/quadro_m1200/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/60308/cycles-support-for-gtx-1070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="0a6f348f-1e58-4848-b140-8ea9ff5b1ae3" CreationDate="2017-01-25T16:23:25.353" UserId="5445" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March 2017 but is available for pre-order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20076" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6722" RevisionGUID="78aef62a-8648-49ed-90a8-451cf4f129aa" CreationDate="2017-01-25T16:58:17.120" UserId="3980" Comment="edited body" Text="I think that the Alienware with the GTX 1070 is going to work better for your application. When considering the GPU options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 vs Quadro M1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1070 has 1920 CUDA cores vs. [640 CUDA cores from the Quadro M1200][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 is rated for 6.5 TFLOPS vs. 1.4 TFLOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of benchmarks (these are the desktop versions, I can't find benchmarks for the m1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070: 10,973&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quadro K1200: 2992&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion, if you are looking for GPU power, the laptop with the GTX 1070 (Alienware) is going to be the better option, if you need professional driver support, then take the Quadro (Precision Workstation). I know there is driver [support for CUDA][2] 8.0 cards (in blender) so that isn't an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/5nt3ns/quadro_m1200/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/60308/cycles-support-for-gtx-1070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6724" RevisionGUID="788aab1c-7d9a-4d41-951b-f2fbe2f5e21d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T17:53:22.837" UserId="2292" Text="I am looking for a smart-ish thermostat, which can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Separate usage for, say, heating zone 1, heating zone 2 and hot water. Heating zone 2 might be radiators heated by a gas boiler or an air to air heat pump. If it could show usage as the time where the thermostat is asking the controlled units to heat, then that would be OK on that point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I should also be able to switch either zone on/off remotely from different devices (this is more important to me than any &quot;learning&quot; ability).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ideally it would be able to control solar thermal hot water should I go completely green and add it later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Hopefully this counts as in-scope as it would be a device connected to via a computer/smartphone. Thank you!)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20078" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6724" RevisionGUID="788aab1c-7d9a-4d41-951b-f2fbe2f5e21d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T17:53:22.837" UserId="2292" Text="Thermostat independently controlling and registering heat use for multiple zones with remote on/off?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20079" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6724" RevisionGUID="788aab1c-7d9a-4d41-951b-f2fbe2f5e21d" CreationDate="2017-01-25T17:53:22.837" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6725" RevisionGUID="fe8d89c1-4cb8-4905-96d7-7bae3a98e6b5" CreationDate="2017-01-26T10:17:55.220" UserId="5466" Text="I need to upgrade my RAM. There are two slots. One of them is empty and the other one contains a RAM with the following spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4GB DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am going to add another 4GB RAM to the empty slot. How can I make sure the other RAM I buy is compatible with this one and my motherboard? Here's my system info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ubve.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIjvA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8gke.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhTrh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20085" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6725" RevisionGUID="fe8d89c1-4cb8-4905-96d7-7bae3a98e6b5" CreationDate="2017-01-26T10:17:55.220" UserId="5466" Text="Memories compatible with Samsung 4GB DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20086" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6725" RevisionGUID="fe8d89c1-4cb8-4905-96d7-7bae3a98e6b5" CreationDate="2017-01-26T10:17:55.220" UserId="5466" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6726" RevisionGUID="490cc810-8773-474b-b48b-0dac3b611ad7" CreationDate="2017-01-26T13:24:58.767" UserId="4523" Text="You already had the exact way to find which DIMMs to use, you just didn't know it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Go to whichever site you prefer to use to buy PC components, and search for DDR3 PC3-12800 1600Mhz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like a recommendation:  I would suggest [G.SKILL F3-1600C11S-4GNT](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231634&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons being:  27 USD on newegg, lifetime warranty from the manufacturer (I have been using G.Skill for over 10 years, only had one bad DIMM in a matching set, followed their RMA steps and had my replacement very quickly)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6726" RevisionGUID="e759a572-a320-4992-803a-bfb677360e4c" CreationDate="2017-01-26T15:06:07.867" UserId="4523" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="You already had the exact way to find which DIMMs to use, you just didn't know it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Go to whichever site you prefer to use to buy PC components, and search for DDR3 PC3-12800 1600Mhz, make sure to specify SODIMM (laptops) or DIMM (Desktops)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like a recommendation:  I would suggest [G.SKILL F3-12800CL11S-4GBSQ](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231481&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons being: This is a standard SO-DIMM for laptops.  27 USD on newegg, lifetime warranty from the manufacturer (I have been using G.Skill for over 10 years, only had one bad DIMM in a matching set, followed their RMA steps and had my replacement very quickly)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20089" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6725" RevisionGUID="ce0e885f-e8cf-4b0d-a5e6-d4a33b3efee5" CreationDate="2017-01-26T15:11:25.837" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20091" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="22c64438-929f-4a81-a5ca-6797ee7fb610" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:14:32.020" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://crypto.stackexchange.com/questions/43315/smart-cards-for-encrypting-decrypting-using-aes-or-tripledes-or-rsa" />
  <row Id="20092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="05d0e947-d1ea-4b71-9b18-4d24917258e4" CreationDate="2017-01-26T17:05:32.833" UserId="5470" UserDisplayName="myrmix" Text="I need some hardware device (not as big as a Thales or Atalla HSM), something like a smart card (with USB preferably) to **encrypt and decrypt** small texts (around 64 bytes). I didn't find much in a google search, only one called [YubiHSM][1] ($500) which performs AES encryption/decryption, any other devices (*hopefully cheaper*)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PKCS#11** is desired, but I'd like to see different options. Also, I need the device to **generate and store a few keys** (right now I just need to generate and store one master key). The application that would interact with this device runs on **Linux**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.yubico.com/products/yubihsm/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="05d0e947-d1ea-4b71-9b18-4d24917258e4" CreationDate="2017-01-26T17:05:32.833" UserId="5470" UserDisplayName="myrmix" Text="Smart cards for encrypting/decrypting using AES or TripleDES or RSA?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="05d0e947-d1ea-4b71-9b18-4d24917258e4" CreationDate="2017-01-26T17:05:32.833" UserId="5470" UserDisplayName="myrmix" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="64eeea07-7313-4b85-8e15-d6d0544955dc" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:44:38.897" UserId="273" Comment="re-tagged, removed EDIT field, we have a revision history here" Text="I need some hardware device (not as big as a Thales or Atalla HSM), something like a smart card (with USB preferably) to **encrypt and decrypt** small texts (around 64 bytes). I didn't find much in a google search, only one called [YubiHSM][1] ($500) which performs AES encryption / decryption, any other devices (*hopefully cheaper*)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PKCS#11** is desired, but I'd like to see different options. Also, I need the device to **generate and store a few keys** (right now I just need to generate and store one master key). The application that would interact with this device runs on **Linux**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.yubico.com/products/yubihsm/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20096" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="64eeea07-7313-4b85-8e15-d6d0544955dc" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:44:38.897" UserId="273" Comment="re-tagged, removed EDIT field, we have a revision history here" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20097" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="64eeea07-7313-4b85-8e15-d6d0544955dc" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:44:38.897" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by -1 edit id of 565" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20098" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6727" RevisionGUID="e57408c0-3747-4c58-a2dc-50087f1f3f58" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:44:38.897" UserId="5470" Comment="re-tagged, removed EDIT field, we have a revision history here" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;smartcards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="35ee5ce6-133e-4979-933f-1ebfcd226461" CreationDate="2017-01-26T20:06:02.973" UserId="5445" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March but is available for pre-order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6728" RevisionGUID="06366007-b9d7-4133-a212-e6bd97013d30" CreationDate="2017-01-26T20:31:59.177" UserId="273" Text="I think what you're looking for is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##The [Feitian ePass2003][1]&#xD;&#xA;(or some other token from their ePass line)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It costs less than a YubiHSM - Feitian sells them at 70USD for five pieces + customs, taxes and shipping&#xD;&#xA; - It supports RSA, AES and 3DES with card-stored keys&#xD;&#xA; - It supports the Windows CSP and has a PKCS#11 library&#xD;&#xA; - It claims support for Linux, Windows and OS X&#xD;&#xA; - It's a USB form-factor, about as large as your average USB-stick&#xD;&#xA; - As a bonus [it has a FIPS 140-2 Lvl 3 certification][2] and is the _only_ token that you can freely purchase with this level of assurance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftsafe.com/products/PKI/Standard/Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://csrc.nist.gov/groups/STM/cmvp/documents/140-1/140val-all.htm#2204" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20104" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="dae200c4-ce35-436d-9841-ea6238a78675" CreationDate="2017-01-27T00:55:15.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6086" RevisionGUID="aa79a9a3-db33-4f3d-9957-a7d553fd7341" CreationDate="2017-01-27T01:26:33.820" UserId="4523" Comment="deleted 343 characters in body" Text="I would suggest the following: [pcpartpicker.com:  AMD build rev 3](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VC9Ybj)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Under the budget maximum.&#xD;&#xA;2.  Suitable for business applications, and light gaming *Civ series as specified*&#xD;&#xA;3.  Memory has changed a bit.  Note:  Single DDR3 16GB DIMMS exist, but they are expensive....and single DDR3 32GB DIMMS are ludicrous. &#xD;&#xA;4.  Changed HDD to a 3TB for storage, and added a 120Gb SSD for use as the OS drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20106" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6730" RevisionGUID="31c11d77-69e0-4994-b2c6-2be448552bc8" CreationDate="2017-01-27T02:50:13.797" UserId="5473" Text="Looking to build a laptop, though would consider buying a pre-built. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) $300 - $500 price tag&#xD;&#xA;    2) Linux OS (Debian or Ubuntu)&#xD;&#xA;    3) Decent Processing &#xD;&#xA;    4) Light Weight/ low profile&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;This doesn't need to be super computer. I'm mainly looking for something to play around with programming and some statistical analysis. This would also be a chance to step into the realms of a full blown linux distribution. (trying to get off the microsoft/apple trains, I have become a big fan of my limited experience with Linux). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will consider buying a pre built but do enjoy tinkering with RaspberryPis and would enjoy the project of assembly and modification. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bonus here would be the ability to upgrade down the road. Compatibility would also be a plus.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20107" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6730" RevisionGUID="31c11d77-69e0-4994-b2c6-2be448552bc8" CreationDate="2017-01-27T02:50:13.797" UserId="5473" Text="Linux Laptop Build or Prebuilt Recommendations on a Budget" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20108" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6730" RevisionGUID="31c11d77-69e0-4994-b2c6-2be448552bc8" CreationDate="2017-01-27T02:50:13.797" UserId="5473" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6730" RevisionGUID="d627b426-add7-4fac-90e2-ea7dc659be4c" CreationDate="2017-01-27T02:57:22.127" UserId="5473" Comment="added 100 characters in body" Text="Looking to build a laptop, though would consider buying a pre-built. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) $300 - $500 price tag&#xD;&#xA;    2) Linux OS (Debian or Ubuntu)&#xD;&#xA;    3) Decent Processing &#xD;&#xA;    4) Light Weight/ low profile&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;This doesn't need to be super computer. I'm mainly looking for something to play around with programming and some statistical analysis. This would also be a chance to step into the realms of a full blown linux distribution. Trying to get off the microsoft/apple bandwagons as my experience with their products continue to get worse and worse every year. Additionally I have become a big fan of Linux though my experience is limited. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will consider buying a pre built but do enjoy tinkering with RaspberryPis and would enjoy the project of assembly and modification. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bonus here would be the ability to upgrade down the road. Compatibility would also be a plus.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20112" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6730" RevisionGUID="4ff2e09b-02e1-4ac8-8aad-70400f81b0e8" CreationDate="2017-01-27T03:07:09.997" UserId="5473" Comment="edited title" Text="Recommendations for Building a Linux Laptop on a Budget" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20113" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="0f92d502-1e4e-4b76-9d04-3b1547165950" CreationDate="2017-01-27T05:55:48.897" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6731" RevisionGUID="455936c6-498b-49e9-aa9c-4d865f18702f" CreationDate="2017-01-27T13:52:46.613" UserId="5469" Text="I am a PhD student at a university (at a computer science department). Luckily our department got some money for new hardware, and as an alternative two some suggestions by our universities IT-center everyone could choose what he wants (at least in theory).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for me I wanted a laptop, which is powerfull enough so I can use it as a desktop pc too (by using a docking station), so in some sense &quot;a one fits it all solution&quot; (as some colleagues want to buy one separate desktop pc, and one laptop for business trips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core features I required are the following:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Small, so I can take it easily with me, like 14&quot; or less,&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i7 Quad-Core (hence no &quot;U&quot;-variant cpu which is mostly found in laptops)&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (as I am also using virtualisation and my browsing habits always involve quite a lot of open tabs)&#xD;&#xA; - SSD PCIe-NVMe&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated Graphics cards, like an nVidia&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other points I want it to have (but are willing to take compromises):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Linux compatiblity&#xD;&#xA; - Support for multiple display (up to three), possible by docking stations&#xD;&#xA; - Thunderbolt/USB-Typ-C &#xD;&#xA; - as this hardware has to work 5 years, a warrantly spanning this time would be desirable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am working as a theoretical computer scientiest, so in some sense it is difficult to justify that I want a dedicated graphics card (also as all my collegues from my chair are not as picky and just choose the suggestions by the IT-center), but in the past I did some computer graphics programming, and I still enjoy it and want to have the possiblity to do some computer graphics stuff if I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now after extensive research I found four laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) The [Dell Alienware 13][1] (which could be configured with the required options)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2) [XMG P407][2] An indidvual configurable notebook by Schenker (the P407) in its XMG product line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3) [MSI GS43VR 7RE PHANTOM PRO][3] (which came shipped with 16GB, but according to specs could be updated to 32GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4) [Thinkpad 460p][4] (which could be configured with the required options)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfornutely after suggesting options 1) and 2) for me and some colleagues from another chair, I got the feedback that they could not be bought as there is too much &quot;gaming&quot; into them, i.e. it does not make a good impression to buy a gaming laptop for serious business. So option 3) would be left, but this fell out after too after another colleague read something that they have bad build quality, i.e. might get broken soon; and actually I cannot buy this laptop just for me, but we have to be a group of a few person wanting the same laptop. Also option 3) suffers from being to much &quot;gaming&quot;, and actually I had a msi gaming laptop once, which worked fine and I had very good experiences with it; but in the german keyboard layout they switched some keys which made drove me crazy while touch typing (as a computer scientist I even use the &quot;unusual&quot; tokens like &lt;,&gt;,| quite often). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, do you know any other laptops fulfilling my core requirement, but not being marked as a gaming device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remark: With Dell and HP hardware a warranty of 5 years would be possible as this company has special contract with the university, also MSI offers this option and Schenker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/de/p/alienware-13-laptop/pd?oc=n00aw13r318&amp;model_id=alienware-13-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.mysn.de/xmg-pro-gaming-laptops/xmg-p407&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://de.msi.com/Laptop/GS43VR-7RE-Phantom-Pro.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://shop.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t460p/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20116" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6731" RevisionGUID="455936c6-498b-49e9-aa9c-4d865f18702f" CreationDate="2017-01-27T13:52:46.613" UserId="5469" Text="Looking for a powerful 14&quot; laptop that is not marked as gaming (as it should be used in office)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20117" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6731" RevisionGUID="455936c6-498b-49e9-aa9c-4d865f18702f" CreationDate="2017-01-27T13:52:46.613" UserId="5469" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6731" RevisionGUID="f6f91f33-c83d-4014-8380-188de70a62e7" CreationDate="2017-01-27T13:59:15.017" UserId="5469" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I am a PhD student at a university (at a computer science department). Luckily our department got some money for new hardware, and as an alternative two some suggestions by our universities IT-center everyone could choose what he wants (at least in theory).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for me I wanted a laptop, which is powerfull enough so I can use it as a desktop pc too (by using a docking station), so in some sense &quot;a one fits it all solution&quot; (as some colleagues want to buy one separate desktop pc, and one laptop for business trips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core features I required are the following:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Small, so I can take it easily with me, like 14&quot; or less,&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i7 Quad-Core (hence no &quot;U&quot;-variant cpu which is mostly found in laptops)&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (as I am also using virtualisation and my browsing habits always involve quite a lot of open tabs)&#xD;&#xA; - SSD PCIe-NVMe&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated Graphics cards, like an nVidia&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other points I want it to have (but are willing to take compromises):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Linux compatiblity&#xD;&#xA; - Support for multiple display (up to three), possible by docking stations&#xD;&#xA; - Thunderbolt/USB-Typ-C &#xD;&#xA; - as this hardware has to work 5 years, a warrantly spanning this time would be desirable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am working as a theoretical computer scientiest, so in some sense it is difficult to justify that I want a dedicated graphics card (also as all my collegues from my chair are not as picky and just choose the suggestions by the IT-center), but in the past I did some computer graphics programming, and I still enjoy it and want to have the possiblity to do some computer graphics stuff if I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now after extensive research I found four laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) The [Dell Alienware 13][1] (which could be configured with the required options)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2) [XMG P407][2] An indidvual configurable notebook by Schenker (the P407) in its XMG product line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3) [MSI GS43VR 7RE PHANTOM PRO][3] (which came shipped with 16GB, but according to specs could be updated to 32GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4) [Thinkpad 460p][4] (which could be configured with the required options)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfornutely after suggesting options 1) and 2) for me and some colleagues from another chair, I got the feedback that they could not be bought as there is too much &quot;gaming&quot; into them, i.e. it does not make a good impression to buy a gaming laptop for serious business. So option 4) would be left, but this fell out too, as another colleague read something that they have bad build quality, i.e. might get broken soon; and actually I cannot buy this laptop just for me, but we have to be a group of a few persons wanting the same laptop. Also option 3) suffers from being to much &quot;gaming&quot;, and actually I had a msi gaming laptop once, which worked fine and I had very good experiences with it; but in the german keyboard layout they switched some keys which drove me crazy while touch typing (as a computer scientist I even use the &quot;unusual&quot; tokens like &lt;,&gt;,| quite often). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, do you know any other laptops fulfilling my core requirements, but not being marked as a gaming device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remark: With Dell and HP hardware a warranty of 5 years would be possible as this company has special contracts with the university, also MSI offers this option and Schenker for 3 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/de/p/alienware-13-laptop/pd?oc=n00aw13r318&amp;model_id=alienware-13-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.mysn.de/xmg-pro-gaming-laptops/xmg-p407&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://de.msi.com/Laptop/GS43VR-7RE-Phantom-Pro.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://shop.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t460p/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6733" RevisionGUID="ed8f440f-ab6c-4bea-8120-f153101e1c3e" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:23:21.270" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest the following:  [MSI WT72 6QL-400US](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152987&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons being:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Intel Xeon E3-1505M v5 (2.80 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;2.  32 GB Memory 1 TB HDD 128 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;3.  NVIDIA Quadro M4000M (dedicated)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory:                  32 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Speed:            DDR4 2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Spec:             8 GB x 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory Slot (Total):     4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Memory Supported:    64GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note:  This is larger than the requested 14&quot; size @ 17&quot;.  But this is advertised as a workstation, not a gaming system.  The Xeon CPU in question is a quad core (8 threads), SSD in an NVMe m.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You do not mention budget, but cost is:  USD$3,199.00 via Newegg.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20123" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6734" RevisionGUID="1d39c87d-9c8e-4c36-a505-821205289c65" CreationDate="2017-01-27T18:46:09.983" UserId="4523" Text="I would recommend:  [Acer Laptop Aspire E5-553G](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315445&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is within budget restrictions @ $459.99 (199.99 @ off newegg until 2/1/2017)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8GB ram can be upgraded to 32Gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight is 5.27Lbs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does come with windows 10 (use a Debian/Ubuntu LiveUSB and install over it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;128Gb SSD (OS drive usually)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1Tb HDD (only 5400rpm, may want to upgrade to 7200rpm or another SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dimensions:  15.02&quot; x 10.20&quot; x 0.94&quot;-1.19&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x USB 3.1 Type-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 x USB 3.0 (1 with Power-off Charging)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x HDMI Port with HDCP support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x Docking Connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x Headphone/Speaker/Line-Out Jack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20125" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="07a037ce-2558-41ee-b843-b92d441e1bd1" CreationDate="2017-01-28T01:30:13.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6736" RevisionGUID="84b9dc88-ff96-4cab-b6eb-b48ce307c632" CreationDate="2017-01-28T11:28:26.197" UserId="5194" Text="I'm trying to build a portable Mini-ITX PC. I want it to have similar power capabilities to a laptop. That is, the ability to plug or unplug it from the power main without it losing power and shutting down. Additionally, I want it to be possible to change the battery while the power main is connected, also without shutting down. And before anyone asks, I do not want a laptop, or any box that I can't easily open and replace/upgrade the parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I've already found a decent Lithium-ion battery that has 12v 5.5mm DC as both input and output. In theory, I can connect it in a chain with a DC adapter. But, besides the risk of killing the battery with constant recharge and discharge, it would be impossible to unplug it in that state without losing power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm therefore looking for a component to which I can plug both the battery and the power main (or a suitable DC adapter), and it would only use the battery if the power main is unplugged. Then, I can simply use a splitter for the main power, so that it both charges the battery, and powers the PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did find a load-sharing YPWR board from mini-box, but it seems to use both power sources at the same time, if both are connected. I want something similar, that would prioritize using the power main, and not discharge the battery when the power main is present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also open to other solutions, or combinations of components, of course.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20132" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6736" RevisionGUID="84b9dc88-ff96-4cab-b6eb-b48ce307c632" CreationDate="2017-01-28T11:28:26.197" UserId="5194" Text="Hot-swappable DC power high availability component" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20133" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6736" RevisionGUID="84b9dc88-ff96-4cab-b6eb-b48ce307c632" CreationDate="2017-01-28T11:28:26.197" UserId="5194" Text="&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20145" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6733" RevisionGUID="ed57b96c-b35a-46bf-bb9f-1c2637f90e4c" CreationDate="2017-01-29T00:33:55.797" UserId="4523" Comment="added 216 characters in body" Text="*** original suggestion removed due to not meeting weight/portability requirements, can be seen in update history ***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the first option did not meet your approval, here is another option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The EON15-X Pro Workstation](https://www.originpc.com/workstation/laptops/eon15-x-pro/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(There is an ultra thin version, but due to how thin it is there is a limitation on ram installation due to inability to have the ram overlap like in a standard laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is built by Origin PC, who are known for their custom PC work, but this system is advertised as a workstation, not a gaming system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be customized to fit your needs, and the chassis can be left as plain as you would like it to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost varies based on hardware choices, but just doing a &quot;select every high end thing&quot; test, it can max well above $5k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Customization link is [here](https://www.originpc.com/configurator/l/l1.aspx?SYSTEMID=64)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20146" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="1fa99f0a-c5b1-40bf-a49e-35b014e5bbf1" CreationDate="2017-01-29T02:22:32.977" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6742" RevisionGUID="5b954351-e054-46cc-a90a-4ef9e93afc6a" CreationDate="2017-01-29T09:18:11.343" UserId="5486" Text="There are a few 'touch' mice out there with tap for 3rd button (e.g. Arc Mouse) and capacitive scroll. But I haven't seen any that have tap-to-click for left and right button functions (like on a trackpad). Most seem to use mechanical switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(The Samsung SMT-7000B *might* have tap for primary click, but I can't even tell)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If interested, I have finger fatigue (RSI), but a touchpad is not a great solution for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20163" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6742" RevisionGUID="5b954351-e054-46cc-a90a-4ef9e93afc6a" CreationDate="2017-01-29T09:18:11.343" UserId="5486" Text="Does a tap to click mouse exist" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20164" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6742" RevisionGUID="5b954351-e054-46cc-a90a-4ef9e93afc6a" CreationDate="2017-01-29T09:18:11.343" UserId="5486" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20182" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="716b799b-27ae-466d-8a24-009c86c4155e" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:11:32.673" UserId="84" Text="I got a [Samsung 6290](http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/40--class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv--2016-model--un40ku6290fxza/#specs) UHD (4k) HDR display that accepts only HDMI input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a [Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H rev. 1.1](http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4388#sp) motherboard with an i-3225 CPU.  Specs say, &quot;The PCIEX16 slot conforms to PCI Express 3.0 standard.  Whether PCI Express 3.0 is supported depends on CPU and graphics card compatibility.&quot;  Native motherboard graphics support only runs to 1920x1080 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run Win7x64 and I don't do any gaming, so frame rates are irrelevant to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a no-frills graphics card that will support one HDMI 3840x2160 output and take advantage of HDR (which I imagine means 30- or 36-bit color?).  Aside from those specs, quiet and stable operation, followed by price, are my primary considerations.  What should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20183" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="716b799b-27ae-466d-8a24-009c86c4155e" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:11:32.673" UserId="84" Text="Graphics card to support UHD (4k) HDR screen over HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20184" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="716b799b-27ae-466d-8a24-009c86c4155e" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:11:32.673" UserId="84" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="7eb0f7ed-4cdb-4562-bc7a-b54de9cbb5e4" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:33:13.450" UserId="3980" Comment="Corrected CPU &quot;spelling&quot;." Text="I got a [Samsung 6290](http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/40--class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv--2016-model--un40ku6290fxza/#specs) UHD (4k) HDR display that accepts only HDMI input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a [Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H rev. 1.1](http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4388#sp) motherboard with an Intel i3-3225 CPU.  Specs say, &quot;The PCIEX16 slot conforms to PCI Express 3.0 standard.  Whether PCI Express 3.0 is supported depends on CPU and graphics card compatibility.&quot;  Native motherboard graphics support only runs to 1920x1080 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run Win7x64 and I don't do any gaming, so frame rates are irrelevant to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a no-frills graphics card that will support one HDMI 3840x2160 output and take advantage of HDR (which I imagine means 30- or 36-bit color?).  Aside from those specs, quiet and stable operation, followed by price, are my primary considerations.  What should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20186" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="7eb0f7ed-4cdb-4562-bc7a-b54de9cbb5e4" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:33:13.450" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 84 edit id of 566" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20188" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6747" RevisionGUID="a3ac5b54-bb3b-437b-86d2-597a93bd8d89" CreationDate="2017-01-30T03:30:49.070" UserId="84" Comment="Added usage description" Text="I got a [Samsung 6290](http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/40--class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv--2016-model--un40ku6290fxza/#specs) UHD (4k) HDR display that accepts only HDMI input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a [Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H rev. 1.1](http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4388#sp) motherboard with an Intel i3-3225 CPU.  Specs say, &quot;The PCIEX16 slot conforms to PCI Express 3.0 standard.  Whether PCI Express 3.0 is supported depends on CPU and graphics card compatibility.&quot;  Native motherboard graphics support only runs to 1920x1080 resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run Win7x64 and I don't do any gaming, so frame rates are irrelevant to me.  (This workstation is for business and development.  So it typical runs a database, dev environment, photo editors, and scores of browser instances.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a no-frills graphics card that will support one HDMI 3840x2160 output and take advantage of HDR (which I imagine means 30- or 36-bit color?).  Aside from those specs, quiet and stable operation, followed by price, are my primary considerations.  What should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20189" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6748" RevisionGUID="a2fa87a3-98e9-48bf-8d2e-eba118300127" CreationDate="2017-01-30T05:14:47.537" UserId="3980" Text="Actually, you don't necessarily *need* to upgrade the CPU. [A PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot.][1] However, you may experience slightly decreased performance. You mentioned that frame rates were irrelevant, so PCIe 2.0 shouldn't be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do want to upgrade to a CPU that explicitly supports PCIe 3.0, one of the most inexpensive options is going to be something like a i5-3340. Which will be a modest upgrade from your i3 3225.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for a GPU [I believe you will need something that uses the Maxwell or Pascal architecture][2] for HDR (assuming you want to go with nVidia). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1050 looks like a good option...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supports HDR&#xD;&#xA; - Has HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require an additional power adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Go with the GTX 1050 and use it in a PCIe 2.0 slot. Can be found on [Amazon][3] for **$110** or on [Newegg][4] also for **$110**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Or go with the GTX 1050 *with* an i5-3340 (if you would like to use PCIe 3.0, but it's not absolutely necessary). You can find the i5-3340 on [Amazon][5] for **$175.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a bit of a side note... You mentioned a &quot;no-frills&quot; GPU. I'm not sure that's really going to be addressable since you will need a fairly modern Maxwell or Pascal GPU for HDR support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2216733/pci-express-x16-card-work-pci-x16-slot.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.nvidia.com/getting-know-new-hdr&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10500A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485752317&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx%201050&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500412&amp;cm_re=gtx_1050-_-14-500-412-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-3340-Processor-Cache/dp/B00EUVMICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485752934&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i5%203340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20201" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="365a7f36-b530-4cf9-adaa-9eb09f3a66e7" CreationDate="2017-01-30T18:41:09.523" UserId="5445" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="365a7f36-b530-4cf9-adaa-9eb09f3a66e7" CreationDate="2017-01-30T18:41:09.523" UserId="5445" Comment="edited tags" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="98e0b4d2-326c-4af7-ad80-7c9a688ee353" CreationDate="2017-01-30T20:43:35.263" UserId="3967" Text="I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: A4-7300 FM2  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 145,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The Configuration 2 is:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Athlon 5150 AM1   &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockAM1B-MH   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 135,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;and finally, the Configuration 3:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockH110M-HG4   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ  &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 215,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Configuration 1 and 2 are near the same price, so the question is: AM1 is better than FM2? I heard that &quot;*AM1 socket is not good for games*&quot;. Well I know that none of that configuration is good for games, but in between that 3 configurations, AM1 is the worse? why?&#xD;&#xA; 2. The Intel Configuration is ~$75,00 USD more expensive than AMD configuration. Is it worth?&#xD;&#xA; 3. Socket AM3+ and some AMD FX processor are worth comparate with this configurations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="98e0b4d2-326c-4af7-ad80-7c9a688ee353" CreationDate="2017-01-30T20:43:35.263" UserId="3967" Text="Low Budget with AM1 vs FM2 vs LGA1151" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="98e0b4d2-326c-4af7-ad80-7c9a688ee353" CreationDate="2017-01-30T20:43:35.263" UserId="3967" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="d254597b-7000-43de-a995-ea06dc773fc0" CreationDate="2017-01-30T22:45:18.237" UserId="5445" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="There are three main ways to deliver 3D:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Anagylph, the type of 3D involving the old red-blue glasses&#xD;&#xA;- Passive 3D, the type of 3D you see in movie theaters nowadays involving circularly polarized light&#xD;&#xA;- Active 3D, the type of 3D found in most 3D glasses involving active-shutter glasses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you can view Anaglyph 3D on essentially any TV. And there are even products like [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005SN3INA) which takes 3D content designed for Passive or Active 3D and converts them to Anaglyph so they can be viewed on non-3D TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any products that allow you to view either active or passive 3D on a non-3D TV? It seems there was such a product called [3DNOW](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009E7WDLO) in 2012, but it appears to have been discontinued. Are there any similar products currently on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 4K TV, so resolution shouldn't be a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20207" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="be26735b-98b1-4cca-9819-65ca18939b65" CreationDate="2017-01-30T23:28:01.983" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="67a8bd60-b0d4-42c6-8a97-3cbf9b55f756" CreationDate="2017-01-31T00:57:04.367" UserId="1658" Text="I sometimes listen to audio when I sleep. What's a bluetooth headset product that will not make noises/vibrate when low battery? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20210" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="67a8bd60-b0d4-42c6-8a97-3cbf9b55f756" CreationDate="2017-01-31T00:57:04.367" UserId="1658" Text="What's a pair bluetooth headsets that doesn't vibrate/make noise when low battery?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20211" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="67a8bd60-b0d4-42c6-8a97-3cbf9b55f756" CreationDate="2017-01-31T00:57:04.367" UserId="1658" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20212" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="3eb89507-e5ec-4df5-b6d6-e62093983ad4" CreationDate="2017-01-31T00:59:29.880" UserId="3967" Comment="Fixed the too broaded problem" Text="I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: A4-7300 FM2  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 145,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The Configuration 2 is:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Athlon 5150 AM1   &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockAM1B-MH   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 135,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;and finally, the Configuration 3:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockH110M-HG4   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ  &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 215,00 USD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: Too broad?   &#xD;&#xA;Really, really simple question then:&#xD;&#xA;**What of that 3 configurations have the best cost-benefit and why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt; &#xD;&#xA;So, my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Configuration 1 and 2 are near the same price, so the question is: AM1 is better than FM2? I heard that &quot;*AM1 socket is not good for games*&quot;. Well I know that none of that configuration is good for games, but in between that 3 configurations, AM1 is the worse? why?&#xD;&#xA; 2. The Intel Configuration is ~$75,00 USD more expensive than AMD configuration. Is it worth?&#xD;&#xA; 3. Socket AM3+ and some AMD FX processor are worth comparate with this configurations?&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20213" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="8d856aa1-b16f-4767-b791-54ee336e1195" CreationDate="2017-01-31T01:55:13.727" UserId="3967" Comment="possible uses" Text="I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: A4-7300 FM2  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 145,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The Configuration 2 is:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Athlon 5150 AM1   &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockAM1B-MH   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 135,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;and finally, the Configuration 3:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockH110M-HG4   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ  &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 215,00 USD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: Too broad?   &#xD;&#xA;Really, really simple question then:&#xD;&#xA;**What of that 3 configurations have the best cost-benefit and why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operational System:**   &#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 AU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Games** (can be played at minimum level of graphics):  &#xD;&#xA;Hearthstone, League Of Legends, Stacraft 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications:**  &#xD;&#xA;Visual Studio 2017, Sql Server 2016, Bluestacks, LibreOffice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Rarely used:**  &#xD;&#xA;Some VM like VirtualBox or VMWare&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt; &#xD;&#xA;So, my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Configuration 1 and 2 are near the same price, so the question is: AM1 is better than FM2? I heard that &quot;*AM1 socket is not good for games*&quot;. Well I know that none of that configuration is good for games, but in between that 3 configurations, AM1 is the worse? why?&#xD;&#xA; 2. The Intel Configuration is ~$75,00 USD more expensive than AMD configuration. Is it worth?&#xD;&#xA; 3. Socket AM3+ and some AMD FX processor are worth comparate with this configurations?&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="1d14453d-a148-46c9-88ee-cda2c38816c9" CreationDate="2017-01-31T02:00:48.543" UserId="3967" Comment="possible uses" Text="I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: A4-7300 FM2  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 145,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The Configuration 2 is:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Athlon 5150 AM1   &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockAM1B-MH   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 135,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;and finally, the Configuration 3:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockH110M-HG4   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ  &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 215,00 USD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: Too broad?   &#xD;&#xA;Really, really simple question then:&#xD;&#xA;**What of that 3 configurations have the best cost-benefit and why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operational System:**   &#xD;&#xA;*Windows 10 AU*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Games** (can be played at minimum level of graphics):  &#xD;&#xA;*Hearthstone, League Of Legends, Stacraft 2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications:**  &#xD;&#xA;*Visual Studio 2017, Sql Server 2016, Bluestacks, LibreOffice*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Rarely used:**  &#xD;&#xA;*Some VM like VirtualBox or VMWare*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt; &#xD;&#xA;So, my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Configuration 1 and 2 are near the same price, so the question is: AM1 is better than FM2? I heard that &quot;*AM1 socket is not good for games*&quot;. Well I know that none of that configuration is good for games, but in between that 3 configurations, AM1 is the worse? why?&#xD;&#xA; 2. The Intel Configuration is ~$75,00 USD more expensive than AMD configuration. Is it worth?&#xD;&#xA; 3. Socket AM3+ and some AMD FX processor are worth comparate with this configurations?&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20215" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="635ccf1f-722d-4ff6-83ae-5752e3c990d4" CreationDate="2017-01-31T02:03:35.823" UserId="8" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: A4-7300 FM2  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 145,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;The Configuration 2 is:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Athlon 5150 AM1   &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockAM1B-MH   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz   &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 135,00 USD &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;and finally, the Configuration 3:  &#xD;&#xA;**Processor**: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**: ASRockH110M-HG4   &#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ  &#xD;&#xA;**Total**: $ 215,00 USD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**: Too broad?   &#xD;&#xA;Really, really simple question then:&#xD;&#xA;**What of that 3 configurations have the best cost-benefit** (considering what I'll be using them for) **and why?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operational System:**   &#xD;&#xA;*Windows 10 AU*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Games** (can be played at minimum level of graphics):  &#xD;&#xA;*Hearthstone, League Of Legends, Stacraft 2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Applications:**  &#xD;&#xA;*Visual Studio 2017, Sql Server 2016, Bluestacks, LibreOffice*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Rarely used:**  &#xD;&#xA;*Some VM like VirtualBox or VMWare*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20216" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6752" RevisionGUID="30987b3e-1e88-4864-b28d-7dcda5b1fabd" CreationDate="2017-01-31T02:03:54.313" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6754" RevisionGUID="56577195-a3db-4905-b8b7-f4b292f9c14c" CreationDate="2017-01-31T02:12:38.520" UserId="4523" Text="AM1 is not the best for gaming due to being an older technology with less capable CPUs, FM2 is newer. Personally, I'd go with the FM2 system, it is a more powerful CPU, and has built in graphics capability.  It also meets the minimum CPU speed and graphics requirements for the games you have listed. Though it will likely not be able to handle cutting edge gaming at max settings, without major upgrades. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6755" RevisionGUID="dd1bade3-fa72-4f35-9711-9a656809a5be" CreationDate="2017-01-31T12:07:28.370" UserId="5480" Text="I have found Seagate Backup Plus Ultra Slim 1TB but there are enough users reported about the bad experience. After some weeks it doesnt work anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max 10 mm cause I want it to use this external HDD with my notebook and transport it together in the same bag.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6755" RevisionGUID="dd1bade3-fa72-4f35-9711-9a656809a5be" CreationDate="2017-01-31T12:07:28.370" UserId="5480" Text="External HDD. Very slim. Max 10 mm. 1-2 TB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6755" RevisionGUID="dd1bade3-fa72-4f35-9711-9a656809a5be" CreationDate="2017-01-31T12:07:28.370" UserId="5480" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6756" RevisionGUID="4c1bb8b0-252e-4c13-8fcc-d9053d7b02cb" CreationDate="2017-01-31T13:19:20.007" UserId="312" Text="I currently own one external HDD (CnMemory airy 3TB), but it's filled to the brim so I need another one. Since the amount of space I require is growing at an alarming rate, I need a rather large one, I'm aiming for 5TB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to use the new HDD for all of my data, which includes backups from the internal harddrives in my computer and my large movie/TV collection along with some other larger stuff. I could then use my current 3TB hard drive exclusively as a back-up for my important/sensitive stuff, so that either harddrive could fail at any given time without me losing anything that's *really* important to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the important features of my new hard drive are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5TB storage or more. 4TB is acceptable if there is a good 4TB model that is reasonably more affordable than a 5TB alternative.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- **Durability**&#xD;&#xA;- No fancy stuff that I would have to pay for (I don't need any sophisticated backup-software for example, I do my backups manually)&#xD;&#xA;- Normal/average transfer speed. Don't need something super fast.&#xD;&#xA;- *Should* have an on/off switch (not set in stone). I usually have my external HDD always connected but turned off when I don't need it. I don't want something that is always on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price range is **100~150 €** (Germany), but I would prefer something for under 100 €. However, I'm willing to make an investment if it will hold up for a substantial amount of time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20223" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6756" RevisionGUID="4c1bb8b0-252e-4c13-8fcc-d9053d7b02cb" CreationDate="2017-01-31T13:19:20.007" UserId="312" Text="Large, reliable external HDD for permanent storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20224" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6756" RevisionGUID="4c1bb8b0-252e-4c13-8fcc-d9053d7b02cb" CreationDate="2017-01-31T13:19:20.007" UserId="312" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6759" RevisionGUID="9270e9c4-84f3-45fc-a5cf-faa9a9be0f01" CreationDate="2017-01-31T17:13:49.950" UserId="4504" Text="[This Seagate Backup Plus Ultra Slim][1] Seems to meet your requirements. Its slim, coming in at  9.6mm tall.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; I tried finding an SSD solution for you, but nothing would fit in that form factor. If your willing to settle on 512GB, I would recommend the [AngleBird SSD2go][2], it is smaller... and substantially faster than any HDD.  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Seagate drive is a USB 3.0, and the Anglefire is USB 3.1 Gen2 10Gbit/s.  &#xD;&#xA;These are my suggestions, I hope they help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195XZJ9E?ref=emc_b_5_t&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.angelbird.com/en/prod/ssd2go-pkt-1031/#overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6759" RevisionGUID="e5552d9a-e4fd-466d-8cbf-fa01ab364ac4" CreationDate="2017-01-31T18:56:53.897" UserId="4504" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="[Seagate Backup Plus Slim 1TB Portable External Hard Drive for Mac USB 3.0][1] Seems to meet your requirements. Its slim, coming in at  9.6mm tall.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; I tried finding an SSD solution for you, but nothing would fit in that form factor. If your willing to settle on 512GB, I would recommend the [AngleBird SSD2go][2], it is smaller... and substantially faster than any HDD.  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Seagate drive is a USB 3.0, and the Anglefire is USB 3.1 Gen2 10Gbit/s.  &#xD;&#xA;These are my suggestions, I hope they help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4YGR48/ref=psdc_595048_t2_B00H4XH5GI&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.angelbird.com/en/prod/ssd2go-pkt-1031/#overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6762" RevisionGUID="404f1801-0a76-45af-8ad2-d892da2b74f1" CreationDate="2017-01-31T20:14:21.633" UserId="5506" Text="I'm looking for something similar to this myself; currently I'm using a [CHIP](https://getchip.com/pages/chip) from NextThingCo; you'd have to write the software yourself for what you want, but it runs standard linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wi-Fi connection&#xD;&#xA;  - CHIP can connect to two wifi networks (or provide one). There's no ethernet, however.&#xD;&#xA;- Audio output&#xD;&#xA;  - CHIP has a TRRS jack&#xD;&#xA;- Push button to config wireless network through WPS&#xD;&#xA;  - CHIP can program two of the gpio pins for this&#xD;&#xA;- An LED to show current network status&#xD;&#xA;  - There's a shell script for that at thom-nic/chip-network-status-led&#xD;&#xA;- Optionally, an RJ45 connection for development through SSH&#xD;&#xA;  - run an ssh server&#xD;&#xA;  - install a serial driver and connect it to your computer with a USB cable&#xD;&#xA;  - usb keyboard/mouse and video output via TRRS/hdmi/vga&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Items: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CHIP: $9 + ~$5-7 s/h&#xD;&#xA;- Power adapter: 2amp usb charger&#xD;&#xA;- Recommended: small power bank or lithium battery&#xD;&#xA;- Optional: [case](https://nextthing.co/pages/store#mc-embedded-subscribe-form) $2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This works fine for me with gmrender-resurrect, though I compiled it myself rather than installing from the repo. Currently I'm looking for something slightly more powerful that I can run BubbleUPnP server on as well, for transcoding (it doesn't seem able to start up)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20247" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="b84b4d6a-6445-41e1-8da8-04ae1389da55" CreationDate="2017-02-01T00:42:58.363" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20248" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="f1c40664-4457-477e-bf56-488ab19ee2d6" CreationDate="2017-02-01T05:27:44.830" UserId="1658" Comment="Better detail on what I'm looking for " Text="I sometimes listen to audio when I sleep. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main Question: What's a bluetooth headset product that will not make noises/vibrate when low battery?  No noise, including the device telling you &quot;battery very low&quot; with a voice, and also no beeping, no vibrating notification when battery low&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**: Less than 100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Form factor of bluetooth headset**: Preferably something like this https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-HBS-750-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B00FO0IHMY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485926696&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=bluetooth+headset+lg &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it would stay on you even when you sleep &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why a simple search did not work for answering my question:** Specifications for bluetooth headset products do not state whether or not there is a &quot;battery very low&quot; sound or vibration when the battery is low. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Specifications**: If it does not make beeping sounds when you adjust the volume with its buttons, that would be good too obviously because the application is for sleeping. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20253" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6753" RevisionGUID="38232e5a-d3ae-4dd9-b9b7-7d619b667475" CreationDate="2017-02-01T11:21:31.470" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1366,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ivaan&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20267" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="f6efd03b-1e2b-43a8-9588-48f4908e343e" CreationDate="2017-02-01T18:30:36.037" UserId="5445" Comment="added 412 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's Oculus Santa Cruz&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Project Tango&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Hololens&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's Project Alloy&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's Sulon Q&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6768" RevisionGUID="dd748a31-c389-4c55-905a-0d71c55cf606" CreationDate="2017-02-01T18:57:14.210" UserId="4618" Text="#For Commercial Use:#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have been using [Open-Mesh access points][1] at my work (specifically the [OM5p-AC][2]) and I love 'em. They connect to each other wirelessly, but I don't think they will connect to your existing wireless network wirelessly. I recommend that you buy two. Hardwire one to the router. The second one will connect wirelessly to the first one and act as an access point. Turn off the wireless radio on your router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pros: Seamless wireless network with high availability&#xD;&#xA; - Cons: Expensive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people might not like that you can only manage these access points through cloudtrax.com. There is no local management interface. I thought I wouldn't like this setup until I tried it, but I was converted when I realized that all I had to do to set up a new access point was plug it in and enter the MAC address on the website. They do support OpenWRT if you really want to manage them yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#For Personal Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are looking for is called a repeater or range extender. I have tried the [Netgear N300](http://amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW) and it works fine. Plug it in and forget about it. It has an Ethernet port so you can wirelessly bridge one wired Ethernet client. If you need to bridge more than one wired client, the [TP-Link AC1900](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Extender-Supported-TL-WA855RE/dp/B018017S8W) has four Ethernet ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to page 87 of the [user manual](https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC3200/HelpDesk_Manual/), you can put the AC3200 in Repeater Mode. I have tried re-purposing routers as repeaters and decided I didn't like it because they turn back into routers if they get reset for some reason (it's happened a couple times due to power surges). If that happens, you get a network with two routers, and then bad things happen (DHCP conflicts). Hardware designed for use as a repeater is simpler and more reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.open-mesh.com/solutions.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.open-mesh.com/products/access-points/grp-om5p-ac-cloud-access-point.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6770" RevisionGUID="88429538-d790-4929-902f-cee6307abf90" CreationDate="2017-02-02T02:41:00.250" UserId="5340" Text="I ended up keeping the Intel CS125, and just returned the 4TB drive, as I technically didn't need that much space yet.  For now 2TB will be fine.  But after talking with Intel support, they suggested that it's likely a 4TB drive is just too much for it to handle, and would be incompatible via USB 3.  (I am still curious whether another 4TB drive might work, but I'm not going to spend more time trying to figure it out until I need 4TB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CS125 has been a bit on the slow side, but it does the job of backing up data fast enough, and really does use under 10W of power, even during startup (usually idles around 5W, which is less than my laptop uses when it's in sleep mode!)  So it's a pretty decent option overall with that specific caveat of the USB 3 not supporting a 4TB drive (other USB 3 devices work fine).  I didn't find any better options for the same price." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20278" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6736" RevisionGUID="4fe0d6ee-7fa2-4d93-897d-5e070a2c16c6" CreationDate="2017-02-02T09:24:47.517" UserId="5194" Comment="49" />
  <row Id="20282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6772" RevisionGUID="a2448e6d-a363-4e7f-b0ad-80ce4f18cec4" CreationDate="2017-02-02T12:14:51.713" UserId="5521" Text="Yes, I was looking for the same requirement last month, I found e-con Systems who make cameras for NVIDIA Jetson TX1. They have a 360degree solution for TX1. I can see that they run 6 MIPI CSI-2 Cameras simultaneously. Please refer : https://www.e-consystems.com/blog/camera/?p=1709&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6773" RevisionGUID="1c52cfba-5bab-4cc2-9944-ca45536e54d0" CreationDate="2017-02-02T16:50:33.317" UserId="5522" Text="We need a PC in our office to plug external hard disks and copy content in to local hard disk. 5 to 10 people will do it daily basis. This PC will not use for anything else. I am willing to configure PC cheapest as possible. I don't exactly know which is more important for coping files CPU or RAM beside USB 3 Hub + Internal HDD of course. But they are pretty standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Cheapest CPU i can find can do the job?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-4GB memory will be enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-To cut on my budget which one i should sacrifice CPU or RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here a sample configuration i made:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case: Redrock C702BB Peak 300W&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainboard: MSI A68HM-E33 V2 (2133 Mhz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CPU: AMD A6 6400K X2 (3.0 GHz, 1MB)&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAM: 4 GB HI-LEVEL 1600 DDR3&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HDD: 1TB WD Blue 3,5&quot; (64MB, 7200 RPM) &lt;small&gt;&lt;i&gt;(I choose this becouse i thought 64MB would benefit for copy performance)&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20285" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6773" RevisionGUID="1c52cfba-5bab-4cc2-9944-ca45536e54d0" CreationDate="2017-02-02T16:50:33.317" UserId="5522" Text="PC Configration for File Copying" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20286" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6773" RevisionGUID="1c52cfba-5bab-4cc2-9944-ca45536e54d0" CreationDate="2017-02-02T16:50:33.317" UserId="5522" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6774" RevisionGUID="313e87c2-f84c-4159-a951-68d7c929e2bc" CreationDate="2017-02-02T21:03:45.807" UserId="4504" Text="My solution isn't a computer build. Its a more efficient way to transfer files to a hard drive.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[WD 4TB My Cloud Personal Network Attached Storage ][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Using a drive like this, you simply plug it into the router and then share it with the users who are going to be copying files. Because its all local file copies, you should have a throughput of the gigabit ethernet.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Benefits&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can give users access to only the folder they need access too.  &#xD;&#xA;Can use task scheduler or WD software to automatically backup folders.  &#xD;&#xA;Since it's only a HDD/nic card... less likely of a bad psu killing it.  &#xD;&#xA;If connected correctly, the drive can be viewed over the internet.  &#xD;&#xA;Cheaper, in terms of running cost and initial purchase.  &#xD;&#xA;Savings can go towards larger HDD size.  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I know this isn't the product you were after... but I think its the easiest solution to your problem. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Personal-Network-Attached-Storage/dp/B00EVVGAD0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486068853&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=nas%20drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6775" RevisionGUID="af1618bd-aafe-49c0-ac63-c9a7a62618f7" CreationDate="2017-02-02T22:07:41.667" UserId="241" Text="The two bottlenecks of file copying are transfering from the external hard drive, and writing to the internal drive.  Everything else in a modern computer is much, much faster than the drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation is that you go to a local store and buy the cheapest computer you can find that has one or more USB 3 ports (USB 2 is roughly the same speed as a hard drive; going with USB 3 will eliminate the connection as a potential bottleneck).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to cheap computers, pre-built almost invariably costs less than building it yourself, unless you've got parts from another computer that you can re-use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6776" RevisionGUID="d738bdce-b24f-4d76-bf65-cc8ced6c79ce" CreationDate="2017-02-02T23:43:44.550" UserId="4970" Text="I did something similar last year and I used a TP-Link AC75 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a WDS mode in which you basically connect it to another wireless network after which I think you have to disable its own DHCP in order for it to work as a bridge. I remember it worked pretty well but you inevitably get wireless lag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can check this manual http://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-440.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20290" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6773" RevisionGUID="e55ef363-d5b4-489d-a0eb-2de849faefe7" CreationDate="2017-02-03T01:07:56.203" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6779" RevisionGUID="fc02160e-1c3e-41d0-aabc-ca7b14a951ad" CreationDate="2017-02-03T15:20:54.727" UserId="5529" Text="This is likely an overly simplistic question, but it gets into a class of equipment that I'm not familiar with. Basically, I want to have one WiFi device that can broadcast two SSIDs: one for workstations and another for guests. Here's the caveat: I don't want the guest traffic to use the same port for finding the Internet. Also the guest SSID would have no password. (We are secluded enough to not worry about passers-by using our Internet access.) I want to keep all guest traffic off of our company backbone, so that it doesn't busy our switches with the likes of streaming music from multiple sites. I will wire the guest port to go directly to the Internet gateway, while the workstation port hits our network backbone. Having our Internet slow down a bit from excessive packet traffic is not a concern (not right now at least). Rather, the excessive traffic from multiple streaming clients has been known to slow the data collection machines on the shop floor as well as data transfers for large reports. For now, the fix is to ban all streaming unless it's for business purposes. I'm attempting to put streaming back in (bypassing our backbone) so that some bit of humanity can be reintroduced to the shop. The day goes by a good deal faster and more enjoyable when listening to music. (Radios quickly became annoying with all the advertising running for 10 minutes straight after only 3 songs.) I could accomplish this by putting a cheap second AP in place, but then I have additional power consumption and device management.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Been having trouble finding a selection of equipment for this, because either I don't know a good set of buzz words or phrases to have Google give good results or the equipment that I do find fails to explain its full capabilities. I have found three devices so far. One is a Meraki AP, but it costs way more than I can convince anyone to accept, plus it has the subscription. The other device is closer to an acceptable cost, but it has no self management thus requiring a $1000 managing device. It seems that Linksys E2500 n600 may do this for under $100, but they fail to put the full manual online, so that I can verify it actually does what I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a thing as I'm seeking cost under $200? Even better, does such a device exist that also covers at least 802.11g/n if not g/n/a/b/(ac)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My guess is that this is just asking too much of a single low-cost device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6779" RevisionGUID="fc02160e-1c3e-41d0-aabc-ca7b14a951ad" CreationDate="2017-02-03T15:20:54.727" UserId="5529" Text="I'm looking for inexpensive WiFi equipment that can route VLANs to specified port(s) and also assign a different SSID per VLAN. Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6779" RevisionGUID="fc02160e-1c3e-41d0-aabc-ca7b14a951ad" CreationDate="2017-02-03T15:20:54.727" UserId="5529" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20307" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="549039e4-fa87-41df-bab4-260013e10c0c" CreationDate="2017-02-03T21:36:13.040" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="1c9155a3-9feb-446d-a2fa-588750864806" CreationDate="2017-02-04T02:21:41.067" UserId="5445" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's Oculus Santa Cruz&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Project Tango&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Hololens&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's Project Alloy&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's Sulon Q&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' Linq&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20316" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="8609ae04-fb30-42a6-be7d-fb49c28adc20" CreationDate="2017-02-04T14:50:10.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20323" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6356" RevisionGUID="07871132-eb61-4f45-b0ad-2ab15016e3f3" CreationDate="2017-02-04T19:54:53.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20324" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="62782d5d-968d-4545-8088-ec4eb1c05241" CreationDate="2017-02-05T07:02:55.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6786" RevisionGUID="c88c8d28-152a-4bb1-b065-e30c49bc78e6" CreationDate="2017-02-06T00:06:48.463" UserId="4476" Text="I'm thinking about getting a couple inexpensive PCI cards that will let me plug in any SATA drive into some 10-15 year old PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is an old Compaq Presario 5300 US with a 1.1 GHz Intel Celeron processor and I think 512 MB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what the other is but it's probably similar in specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both have had IDE hard drives plugged into them their whole lives and the motherboards have no support for SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can run a basic Debian Jessie 32-bit install on them among other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about setting one up as a file server or as a backup server that does nothing more than pull from other computers and hold the data on a local 2 TB or 4 TB hard drive, but the drives I have that large are all SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate recommendations on an inexpensive PCI card for this as well as any thoughts on limitations going this route. Will these old computers be able to address all 4 TB of the drive without problems?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20333" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6786" RevisionGUID="c88c8d28-152a-4bb1-b065-e30c49bc78e6" CreationDate="2017-02-06T00:06:48.463" UserId="4476" Text="PCI SATA cards for old tower PCs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20334" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6786" RevisionGUID="c88c8d28-152a-4bb1-b065-e30c49bc78e6" CreationDate="2017-02-06T00:06:48.463" UserId="4476" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6788" RevisionGUID="84dc5da4-11fa-4d64-8072-dfe6ae65f69b" CreationDate="2017-02-06T03:07:12.880" UserId="30" Text="I’m looking for a case for a desktop computer. Or for something to insert into a case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No restrictions/requirements yet (so format/size/slots don‘t matter), except for this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I want to use **two** 3.5-inch HDDs (or SSDs).&#xD;&#xA;* I want to be able to **decide which drive to power up**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is that it must be physically impossible for the operating system on drive 1 to access drive 2, and vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t want to use an external drive, to swap the drives, or to have to (dis)connect cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suitable solutions could be to have two buttons to boot the computer, a single toggle switch for the drives, or an on/off switch per drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6788" RevisionGUID="84dc5da4-11fa-4d64-8072-dfe6ae65f69b" CreationDate="2017-02-06T03:07:12.880" UserId="30" Text="Desktop case that allows powering up only one of two HDDs/SSDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6788" RevisionGUID="84dc5da4-11fa-4d64-8072-dfe6ae65f69b" CreationDate="2017-02-06T03:07:12.880" UserId="30" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6788" RevisionGUID="f4226db2-8d2d-4211-af82-7867b0d9d45d" CreationDate="2017-02-06T03:19:06.640" UserId="30" Comment="added 304 characters in body" Text="I’m looking for a case for a desktop computer. Or for something to insert into a case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No restrictions/requirements yet (so format/size/slots don‘t matter), except for this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I want to use **two** 3.5-inch HDDs (or SSDs).&#xD;&#xA;* I want to be able to **decide which drive to power up**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is that it must be physically impossible for the operating system on drive 1 to access drive 2, and vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t want to use an external drive, to swap the drives, or to have to (dis)connect cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suitable solutions could be to have two buttons to boot the computer, a single toggle switch for the drives, or an on/off switch per drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A swapping mechanism (like many NAS cases offer) might work too, I guess (so I would physically disconnect the drive with a lever, but keep it in the slot, where it sticks out a few centimeters). But only if this doesn’t wear out the connection over time too much, as I’ll switch between the two drives daily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6789" RevisionGUID="6ff8e18f-df15-4091-b988-7ef1fdd62abe" CreationDate="2017-02-06T14:43:40.880" UserId="30" Text="I’m looking for a WLAN router that runs only free/libre software. It doesn’t need to contain a modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPenguin.com offered the [Free Software Wireless-N Broadband Router for GNU / Linux (TPE-NWIFIROUTER2)](https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/free-software-wireless-n-broadband-router-gnu-linux-tpe-nwifirouter2), which even got [FSF’s RYF certification](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom), but it’s &quot;no longer for sale/available&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a router that ships without any proprietary software, but if there isn’t one, I’m fine with a router that ships with proprietary software, as long as a free/libre OS (and free/libre firmware) can be installed without voiding the warranty, ideally officially supported." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20344" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6789" RevisionGUID="6ff8e18f-df15-4091-b988-7ef1fdd62abe" CreationDate="2017-02-06T14:43:40.880" UserId="30" Text="Free/libre WLAN router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20345" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6789" RevisionGUID="6ff8e18f-df15-4091-b988-7ef1fdd62abe" CreationDate="2017-02-06T14:43:40.880" UserId="30" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20350" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6791" RevisionGUID="98728f8f-0d53-4449-a0cc-65eb86ab84b7" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:04:14.500" UserId="5548" Text="I am using the Nokia Play 360° wireless speaker. It allows stereo channels (on each speaker) and it connects via bluettoth. No longer in production though. I cant find any equivilent in the market so far." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6779" RevisionGUID="4376f74e-c83e-47cb-ac34-7e142bba4e37" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:29:20.580" UserId="5529" Comment="deleted 2096 characters in body; edited title" Text="I want to have one WiFi device that can route traffic from one SSID to a specified port and another SSID to another port. Also this device needs to support 802.11g/n at minimum. Prefer it to cost under $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is to physically separate office traffic from guest traffic, but without maintaining multiple devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20352" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6779" RevisionGUID="4376f74e-c83e-47cb-ac34-7e142bba4e37" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:29:20.580" UserId="5529" Comment="deleted 2096 characters in body; edited title" Text="Suggestions on inexpensive WiFi equipment that can route specified SSID to specified port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6792" RevisionGUID="0426e3f4-8d72-4c75-87cd-a8e79ab89e13" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:36:35.583" UserId="4504" Text="In a million years, I would have never thought that this existed. But.. [The Sata Switch is a thing.][1] This model, can hold 4 different SATA3 drives. &#xD;&#xA; [![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I read the product description and information, and it seems like it will do everything you are looking to do, for the cool price of 79.00.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Literally cuts the power from the unused drives, I'm assuming you have to power off/switch HDD/Power on in order to get this to work correctly, but its a pretty cool little device.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cooldrives.com/index.php/4posaiisw3ba.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBCzK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20354" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6792" RevisionGUID="0c765571-2943-4e69-b87d-29f793802cfa" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:43:34.627" UserId="4504" Comment="added 204 characters in body" Text="In a million years, I would have never thought that this existed. But.. [The Sata Switch is a thing.][1] This model, can hold 4 different SATA3 drives. &#xD;&#xA; [![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I read the product description and information, and it seems like it will do everything you are looking to do, for the cool price of 79.00.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Literally cuts the power from the unused drives, I'm assuming you have to power off/switch HDD/Power on in order to get this to work correctly, but its a pretty cool little device.    &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; My only concern was that it's not a full 5/25 inch, so it would have to go into an old floppy drive bay... BUT it comes with an adapter bracket... SO it will fit in ANY case that has a 5.25 bay. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cooldrives.com/index.php/4posaiisw3ba.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBCzK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20355" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="c8aeb795-afa5-486c-bd86-7a42930f2c61" CreationDate="2017-02-06T17:44:17.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="f84388ef-711c-4058-8f8b-720ea2fc5847" CreationDate="2017-02-06T19:57:28.120" UserId="5549" Text="I would like a USB webcam with a low resolution, perhaps something like 160x120 and certainly under 640x480. It does not need to be cheap, so something that supports a range of resolutions in hardware would work fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be plugged into a computer that someone else controls, so I cannot easily cripple a higher-resolution device in software. A camera that produces images with a higher resolution but e.g. heavily compressed or somehow filtered would also work (but only if the processing is done in hardware). It will be used indoors under normal lighting conditions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks for any recommendations in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20357" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="f84388ef-711c-4058-8f8b-720ea2fc5847" CreationDate="2017-02-06T19:57:28.120" UserId="5549" Text="Low-resolution USB webcam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20358" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="f84388ef-711c-4058-8f8b-720ea2fc5847" CreationDate="2017-02-06T19:57:28.120" UserId="5549" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6794" RevisionGUID="980e233f-81af-4737-93de-47d468c91e0d" CreationDate="2017-02-07T01:23:51.743" UserId="3980" Text="You might take a look at [Logitech's C210 Webcam.][1] It can be purchased on Amazon.com for about $23 [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It fits all of your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a low resolution video output of 360p&#xD;&#xA; - Can be used on Windows OSes&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a USB output&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/webcam-c210&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000617-Webcam-C210/dp/B003LVZO88/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486430051&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=logitech%20webcam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6786" RevisionGUID="ac7458b7-34d4-43a6-8522-3e3801a9c77d" CreationDate="2017-02-07T02:24:03.387" UserId="4476" Comment="added clarification on second PC" Text="I'm thinking about getting a couple inexpensive PCI cards that will let me plug in any SATA drive into some 10-15 year old PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is an old Compaq Presario 5300 US with a 1.1 GHz Intel Celeron processor and I think 512 MB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what the other is but it's probably similar in specs. (**EDIT:** It has an 800 MHz AMD Duron processor, 512 MB RAM, and the initial boot screen shows American Megatrends VIA K7 GA7VMM01.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both have had IDE hard drives plugged into them their whole lives and the motherboards have no support for SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can run a basic Debian Jessie 32-bit install on them among other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about setting one up as a file server or as a backup server that does nothing more than pull from other computers and hold the data on a local 2 TB or 4 TB hard drive, but the drives I have that large are all SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate recommendations on an inexpensive PCI card for this as well as any thoughts on limitations going this route. Will these old computers be able to address all 4 TB of the drive without problems?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6795" RevisionGUID="9f3b8cc4-7c81-4fc7-b486-36f89da741b6" CreationDate="2017-02-07T10:48:39.003" UserId="5551" Text="I am looking for an Android device with NFC reader capabilities, which must be rugged (professional outdoor use) and possibly leaving the operator with free hands. My first choice would be a smartwatch or an wrist/arm band, with a tiny display or buttons to allow basic input from the user. I have only found rugged smartphones, which could be fine but they force the user to pull it out from the pocket or wherever it is and slow down work. Can anyone recommend such device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20365" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6795" RevisionGUID="9f3b8cc4-7c81-4fc7-b486-36f89da741b6" CreationDate="2017-02-07T10:48:39.003" UserId="5551" Text="hands-free Android NFC reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20366" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6795" RevisionGUID="9f3b8cc4-7c81-4fc7-b486-36f89da741b6" CreationDate="2017-02-07T10:48:39.003" UserId="5551" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20367" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6235" RevisionGUID="9b0fc2c3-dcb9-4b0c-8879-baffd4487a08" CreationDate="2017-02-07T11:13:19.900" UserId="2343" Comment="50" />
  <row Id="20369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6796" RevisionGUID="54b9475c-a19a-42a6-afde-c2750bfb08cf" CreationDate="2017-02-07T15:39:14.070" UserId="4504" Text="So. I found this  [SABRENT SBT-WCCK USB 2.0 USB Color Web Camera with Built-in Audio Microphone][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Its resolution is 352 x 288 &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I decided to keep searching for a lower resolution webcam So I searched for some of the first webcams to hit the market.   The first commercially available webcam was by a company named quickcam. The original QuickCam provided 320x240-pixel resolution with a grayscale depth of 16 shades at 60 frames per second, or 256 shades at 15 frames per second. Over serial port.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Once I saw that even the very first webcams were a better resolution than you are looking for... I've come to the conclusion that the Sabrent usb 2.0 webcam is probably the closest your going to find to what your looking for. Unless you make your own. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps, and I'm honestly too afraid to ask why you need such a bad camera. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N82TR7352&amp;cm_re=usb_camera-_-30-194-002-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20375" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6796" RevisionGUID="0c417b73-86fb-4ee8-abf9-ad9098f03733" CreationDate="2017-02-07T17:42:05.547" UserId="4504" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="So. I found this  [SABRENT SBT-WCCK USB 2.0 USB Color Web Camera with Built-in Audio Microphone][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Resolution is 352 x 288 &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I decided to keep searching for a lower resolution webcam So I searched for some of the first webcams to hit the market.   The first commercially available webcam was by a company named quickcam. The original QuickCam provided 320x240-pixel resolution with a grayscale depth of 16 shades at 60 frames per second, or 256 shades at 15 frames per second. Over serial port.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Once I saw that even the very first webcams were a better resolution than you are looking for... I've come to the conclusion that the Sabrent usb 2.0 webcam is probably the closest your going to find to what your looking for. Unless you make your own. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps, and I'm honestly too afraid to ask why you need such a bad camera. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N82TR7352&amp;cm_re=usb_camera-_-30-194-002-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6798" RevisionGUID="fde670b4-8c4b-43ab-8224-267df5926b37" CreationDate="2017-02-07T18:28:11.077" UserId="73" Text="The closest things I've found is a 1500nit outdoor display:  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung OM24E - 24&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;Model: OM24E  &#xD;&#xA;1500nit rating  &#xD;&#xA;[Samsung 24&quot; Full HD LED-LCD Commercial Digital Signage Display, Black][1]  &#xD;&#xA;Most shops selling this seem to have this only on special order so once you order it, there's no going back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, the best I've found are very expensive radiology displays. The cheaper versions come in black/white and/or grayscale. They tend to have poor resolution unless you want to spend a fortune. You still have to look closely to see if they actually have a higher than 500nit brightness, but I've seen many that do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.staples.com/Samsung-24-inch-Full-HD-LED-LCD-Commercial-Digital-Signage-Display-Black/product_IM12U7561?cid=PS:GooglePLAs:IM12U7561&amp;ci_src=17588969&amp;ci_sku=IM12U7561&amp;KPID=IM12U7561&amp;cvosrc=PLA.google-SALES.Computer%20Accessories%20%26%20Peripherals&amp;cvo_crid=39357180702&amp;cvo_campaign=71700000015225244&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiA_eXEBRDP8fnIlJDXxsIBEiQAAGfyoWZgiL-7fRGhOOKwIf27kz3Zq2J99SVjKAh2MDnltIYaAr8j8P8HAQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6786" RevisionGUID="4b944210-71a7-4514-a3e0-eb8caf037461" CreationDate="2017-02-07T18:51:51.637" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 72 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking about getting a couple inexpensive PCI cards that will let me plug in any SATA drive into some 10-15 year old PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is an old Compaq Presario 5300 US with a 1.1 GHz Intel Celeron processor and I think 512 MB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know what the other is but it's probably similar in specs. (**EDIT:** It has an 800 MHz AMD Duron processor, 512 MB RAM, and the initial boot screen shows American Megatrends VIA K7 GA7VMM01.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both have had IDE hard drives plugged into them their whole lives and the motherboards have no support for SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can run a basic Debian Jessie 32-bit install on them among other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about setting one up as a file server or as a backup server that does nothing more than pull from other computers and hold the data on a local 2 TB or 4 TB hard drive, but the drives I have that large are all SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate recommendations on an inexpensive PCI card that will enable me to use a SATA drive, including addressing the full 2/4TB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20383" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="5a96d67e-297c-4b16-bd54-e0ed06f60488" CreationDate="2017-02-07T19:26:06.120" UserId="5445" Comment="51" />
  <row Id="20393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6801" RevisionGUID="5c9215a2-8e4d-45fa-891a-b5e9b4eccfeb" CreationDate="2017-02-07T22:35:55.267" UserId="241" Text="I'd recommend the [SYBA SD-VIA-1A2S][1] PCI card, $15 from Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It provides two SATA I ports, is universal PCI, and supports Linux.  It's got LBA-48 support, so it will work with drives larger than 137 GB, and should work with drives larger than 2 TB.  If you need it, it supports booting from attached hard drives (but not attached optical drives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with this card, but it's got good reviews on Newegg, including some from people using it to add SATA ports to older computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124009&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;cm_re=sata_controller_card-_-16-124-009-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6802" RevisionGUID="ecd26e13-8ed3-43b6-8fb9-aad36ef3b9fa" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:04:26.213" UserId="5524" Text="For a custom attendance system we're looking for a fingerprint scanner module with an SDK, that can be used in a scenario where initial registration is done at the central office. Workers have no dedicated sites, so they can show up basically at random at any site, where they have to be identified by their fingerprint only. The system should be able to handle 10k+ fingerprints at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm correct we need a central database of workers that contains hashes of the fingerprints (or the raw data, but we want to avoid that scenario). We want to minimize the time spent on the &quot;matching algorithm&quot;. To make that possible the scanner should be able to provide the hash. That way we only need to compare two strings to match workers. We don't need a forensic grade product, so it is no problem if sometimes fails to identify someone, although it shouldn't do any mismatches. This fingerprint module will be embedded to our device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody have such experience with scanners?&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help in advance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20395" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6802" RevisionGUID="ecd26e13-8ed3-43b6-8fb9-aad36ef3b9fa" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:04:26.213" UserId="5524" Text="Fingerprint scanner with off-device matching" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20396" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6802" RevisionGUID="ecd26e13-8ed3-43b6-8fb9-aad36ef3b9fa" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:04:26.213" UserId="5524" Text="&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6803" RevisionGUID="7ee34271-f442-4ba0-bd8c-45edd5e75604" CreationDate="2017-02-08T00:15:44.320" UserId="4326" Text="I am looking for a capture card that will capture RGB signal from retro consoles on my desktop machine. The consoles I would be capturing (SNES, PS2 and the likes) have a Scart RGB-able cable and for best video quality I would like to be able to capture the RGB signal as directly as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My operating system is Ubuntu (current LTS version) and I would like to use [OBS][1] for streaming and the likes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since Scart connectors are rather large, if you suggest a card which accepts a different type of cable that’s fine (but please at least leave a hint on how to connect Scart to the card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have ample USB ports (2.0 and 3.0), PCI and PCIE x1 slots available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In summary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RGB-supporting&#xD;&#xA; - Accepts Scart or with an idea how to input from Scart&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu and OBS compatible&#xD;&#xA; - USB/PCI/PCIEx1 connected&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus would be if VGA input from another PC is also accepted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://obsproject.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6803" RevisionGUID="7ee34271-f442-4ba0-bd8c-45edd5e75604" CreationDate="2017-02-08T00:15:44.320" UserId="4326" Text="Linux-compatible RGB-supporting video capture card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6803" RevisionGUID="7ee34271-f442-4ba0-bd8c-45edd5e75604" CreationDate="2017-02-08T00:15:44.320" UserId="4326" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6805" RevisionGUID="6505ad9e-417d-49ce-bcb0-832cddf246af" CreationDate="2017-02-08T06:02:36.670" UserId="5561" Text="I'm looking for a router with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;-Wireless N&#xD;&#xA;-OpenVPN client support (to connect to an openvpn access server)&#xD;&#xA;-Built in 3G/4G Modem with SIM slot (3G: 850MHz/2100MHz, 4G: 700MHz/1800Mhz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found Industrial M2M Routers such as the Netcomm NTC-140W matching my needs however I don't wish to spend as much as $800." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6805" RevisionGUID="6505ad9e-417d-49ce-bcb0-832cddf246af" CreationDate="2017-02-08T06:02:36.670" UserId="5561" Text="Cheap Wifi Router with built-in 4G modem and openvpn support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6805" RevisionGUID="6505ad9e-417d-49ce-bcb0-832cddf246af" CreationDate="2017-02-08T06:02:36.670" UserId="5561" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20418" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6805" RevisionGUID="63ed6156-4828-4753-8840-aa0053b9a54f" CreationDate="2017-02-08T16:43:54.493" UserId="60" Comment="Fixed the formatting" Text="I'm looking for a router with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless N&#xD;&#xA;- OpenVPN client support (to connect to an openvpn access server)&#xD;&#xA;- Built in 3G/4G Modem with SIM slot (3G: 850MHz/2100MHz, 4G: 700MHz/1800Mhz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found Industrial M2M Routers such as the Netcomm NTC-140W matching my needs however I don't wish to spend as much as $800." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="e3ca7a55-fe6e-4879-8fc2-6a057e9b6522" CreationDate="2017-02-09T08:56:27.367" UserId="5445" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's Oculus Santa Cruz&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Project Tango&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Hololens&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's Project Alloy&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's Sulon Q&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' Linq&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="93bfc364-6453-46f5-9353-98714d2c5fda" CreationDate="2017-02-09T09:28:33.220" UserId="2292" Text="I would like remote on/off control for two heating zones and hot water. There are many more or less smart thermostats which can do this, however they require internet access. The trouble is my phone is my wireless router - if I leave the house, so does the internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively there are a few thermostats with GSM radios [like this one][1], but with more limited functionality/channels or they come with locked SIM modules and poor value subscriptions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as I have some programming skills, I thought about setting one up myself using a normal thermostat and having my own thing as an on/off override switch, perhaps between the thermostat and heating devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This option][2] looks fairly simple, and if it all goes wrong, I can probably use the &quot;wingle&quot; on its own. That being said, I might not need an integrated WiFi router for this purpose!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I really want to ask: What embedded or mini-computer board and SIM module would make sense for a beginner with programming experience (beginner meaning the integration of the two should not be too hard)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect a Raspberry or similar thing might be an idea because of the luxury of the screen output making debugging easier? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second priorities would be low standby power and lowish cost. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.climote.ie/climote-text-message-commands/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.emnify.com/2015/06/18/how-to-fit-a-raspberry-pi-with-mobile-connectivity/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20429" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="93bfc364-6453-46f5-9353-98714d2c5fda" CreationDate="2017-02-09T09:28:33.220" UserId="2292" Text="Sensible embedded board and SIM module to switch heating on and off in response to text messages" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20430" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="93bfc364-6453-46f5-9353-98714d2c5fda" CreationDate="2017-02-09T09:28:33.220" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20437" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6812" RevisionGUID="e924aefc-587e-485a-b434-8d72fd214627" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:10:21.030" UserId="5572" Text="My problem is that my computer mice always fail the same way - by malfunctioning main buttons!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do buy expensive optical cordless mice from Logitech since decades now.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;But it's always the same:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;First the left mouse button &quot;breaks&quot; (1), then I try to shift most actions to the right one (2), then both of them get unusable. Finally I have to buy another expensive branded product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[explanations:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;(1) By &quot;breaking&quot; I mean defective, loose or even chattering contacts which sometimes fire without my intention to hit the button, reforming single clicks into double or multiple clicks, losing contact while I try to draw something across the screen. ... I think you'll get the picture.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Despite tools or settings to switch the functionality between both main buttons there's mostly the possibility to use context menus or even to use both buttons interchangeably, e.g. if you're working on Android emulators.]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A malfunctioning mouse button like explained can be at least bothersome in some games where you die a lot more often due to these issues - but outside games it can be really dangerous, clicking on arbitrary buttons, choosing options you wouldn’t want to touch, double-clicking things you only want to select, dropping files or other objects to wrong places (Recycle Bin?)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really do not want to look at my branded computer mouse as some kind of consumable. I also hit the buttons of my keyboard very often (even if this distributes to much more of them), but I can still use my first keyboards, decades later!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I’ve done (despite repurchasing):&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve already researched the matter of chattering mouse buttons but only found instructions to open the case and try to clean the micro-switches. But with my current Logitech laser mouse I cannot do this. Maybe the sliding points hide the screws. I cannot remove them, because this would destroy the material and I do not know where to get replacement sliding points.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, to summarize my overall question:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a big manufacturer which produces better quality mice with a higher life expectancy of the buttons than Logitech products?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;(I’m not interested in small producers with only local availability.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20438" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6812" RevisionGUID="e924aefc-587e-485a-b434-8d72fd214627" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:10:21.030" UserId="5572" Text="Which manufacturer produces mice with high durability buttons?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20439" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6812" RevisionGUID="e924aefc-587e-485a-b434-8d72fd214627" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:10:21.030" UserId="5572" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20446" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6736" RevisionGUID="89bd64fc-ec15-408d-bcd0-39f46ffd6d93" CreationDate="2017-02-10T10:41:56.937" UserId="-1" Comment="49" />
  <row Id="20447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6816" RevisionGUID="d788489b-e98d-426f-ad12-c1a65c954f59" CreationDate="2017-02-10T13:19:04.820" UserId="5539" Text="Problem&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;I have a **[Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P][1]** motherboard which doesn't have any inbuilt graphics so I paired it up with [**NVIDIA GeForce 210**][2] Graphics Card. I am not satisfied with this graphics card as I am unable to do video editing and heavy gaming. So, I wish to buy a new GPU for the following tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gaming: GTA V&#xD;&#xA; - Video Editing: Camtasia, VLC&#xD;&#xA; - Development: Android Studio (with emulator)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specification&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD FX 8350 Eight-core processor 4.00 GHz&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P&#xD;&#xA; - Ram 4.00 GB&#xD;&#xA; - OS Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $100 - $150&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gigabyte.in/Motherboard/GA-970A-DS3P-rev-10#support-dl&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.in/object/product_geforce_210_in.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6816" RevisionGUID="d788489b-e98d-426f-ad12-c1a65c954f59" CreationDate="2017-02-10T13:19:04.820" UserId="5539" Text="Graphics Card for GA-970A-DS3P motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6816" RevisionGUID="d788489b-e98d-426f-ad12-c1a65c954f59" CreationDate="2017-02-10T13:19:04.820" UserId="5539" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6817" RevisionGUID="7dcc6386-84ad-419f-a657-9452a0278a03" CreationDate="2017-02-10T14:10:30.540" UserId="8" Text="If you just want a basic mouse without twenty-seven buttons and assignable macros, etc etc: I'd recommend my **[HP BR376AA](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SXBSKLY)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Five buttons: left, right, scroll, and two &quot;thumb&quot; side keys (which are mapped by default to browser forward/back).&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent durability: I've had it for... five years? without it wearing out in the slightest.&#xD;&#xA; - Around £40/$48, which is on the expensive side for a mouse, but the durability probably saves you enough to make up for it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6818" RevisionGUID="c1b390dd-1202-4a77-a45b-8031010c5602" CreationDate="2017-02-10T15:55:26.687" UserId="4043" Text="The best mouse I ever owned, and really the only mouse I've ever seen with a cult following, is the [Logitech MX518][1]. People buy these for $150+ because they were so reliable and no longer newly available. Its successor, the [G400][2], is basically the same thing after doubling the DPI of its sensor and taking away the faux-impacted-metal design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speaking from experience, my MX518 worked consistently for 9 years until it developed the ole' &quot;thinks a single click is two clicks&quot; issue. Not bad for over 8000 hours of use for its life. It was a very sad day when I retired it and replaced with a Steelseries Sensei (only a year in but hey it's a decent mouse so far).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-910-000616-MX518-Optical-Gaming/dp/B0015R8M7U&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-Engine/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486741909&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=logitech%20g400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20456" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="96fd5e49-2572-4449-a703-971855acd961" CreationDate="2017-02-10T16:45:36.877" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20460" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="dfe907e2-28b2-4628-8d8d-3f52a2d66bd3" CreationDate="2017-02-10T17:24:03.043" UserId="5445" Comment="added 28 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's Oculus Santa Cruz&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Project Tango&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Hololens&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's Project Alloy&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's Sulon Q&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' Linq&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's Vantage headset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20461" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="7584f130-7a97-4797-b247-a6a42885b207" CreationDate="2017-02-10T17:30:48.483" UserId="5445" Comment="added 28 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="6230d3ed-5056-4238-a920-354c97f872ed" CreationDate="2017-02-11T05:09:13.487" UserId="5445" Comment="added 105 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6821" RevisionGUID="bf0817e2-0772-4137-afe1-27e5d796b76d" CreationDate="2017-02-11T08:23:55.390" UserId="3980" Text="Considering your budget and existing hardware, a Nvidia GTX 1050ti will fit your needs nicely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation would be **Zotac's GTX 1050ti Mini**. However, you will get similar if not identical performance from other non-reference 1050ti(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find Zotac's 1050ti Mini for **$140 from [Amazon][1] or [Newegg][2].**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1050ti fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Within your budget.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with your system.&#xD;&#xA; - You can play GTA V and other games at reasonable quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CUDA support (GPU assisted rendering), if you use video editing software that's CUDA compatiable.&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require PCIE power connectors. Its peak power consumption is &lt;75W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple things to take note of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You should not have bottlenecking issues with your FX8350.&#xD;&#xA; - Your motherboard supports PCIe 2.0, but the GTX 1050ti is PCIe 3.0. This [wont' be an issue either][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10510A-10L/dp/B01MCU1ERO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486799478&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx%201050ti&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500411&amp;cm_re=zotac_1050ti-_-14-500-411-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3248140/gtx-1050-pcie.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="1e6365bf-6845-4b77-ab55-9d803dbb8672" CreationDate="2017-02-11T12:42:35.350" UserId="5574" Text="I manage a LAMP website, which I develop at home, and then I upload the changes to the production public server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find a small and cheap fanless PC to install Linux and my development LAMP server. I was considering 200-300 USD mini PCs, like Kangaroo MD2B Mobile Desktop Computer, Intel NUC based MiniPCs, QOTOM-Q310G4 Barebone Mini PC, etc. I will install only a Linux distro (without any desktop environment), with Apache, PHP, MySQL, and Samba.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20476" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="1e6365bf-6845-4b77-ab55-9d803dbb8672" CreationDate="2017-02-11T12:42:35.350" UserId="5574" Text="Small and cheap mini-PC to install Linux (no desktop environment) and a development LAMP webserver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20477" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="1e6365bf-6845-4b77-ab55-9d803dbb8672" CreationDate="2017-02-11T12:42:35.350" UserId="5574" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6824" RevisionGUID="756a333c-24b7-4f24-bdf3-4d5d8db61540" CreationDate="2017-02-11T16:20:55.003" UserId="5589" Text="My website converts **video to audio and video to video** using FFMPEG (full Centos 64bit install). Mostly i got multiple conversions **(10-20) real time**. I use cache for already converted audios/videos. I am currently moving to a dedicated server and i need to know which configuration would be best for my situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of the below servers is better for FFMPEG;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SINGLE** [Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1270 v5][1], 8M Smart Cache, 3.60 GHz, 8 GT/s DMI3 (4 Cores-8 Threads) / 32GB DDR4 2133 / 240GB S3500 Intel Wolfsville SSD + 1TB Enterprise Grade HDD (for caching)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DUAL** [Intel® Xeon® Processor E5-2620][2], 15M Smart Cache, 2.00 GHz, 7.20 GT/s Intel® QPI (12 Cores-24 Threads) / 32GB DDR3 1333 / 120GB S3500 Intel Wolfsville SSD + 1TB Enterprise Grade HDD (for caching)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks for your ideas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/88174/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1270-v5-8M-Cache-3_60-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/64594/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2620-15M-Cache-2_00-GHz-7_20-GTs-Intel-QPI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20480" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6824" RevisionGUID="756a333c-24b7-4f24-bdf3-4d5d8db61540" CreationDate="2017-02-11T16:20:55.003" UserId="5589" Text="Which Dedicated Server for FFMPEG?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20481" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6824" RevisionGUID="756a333c-24b7-4f24-bdf3-4d5d8db61540" CreationDate="2017-02-11T16:20:55.003" UserId="5589" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20483" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="a28d1ab7-503b-4ef0-97e7-db98744a04ef" CreationDate="2017-02-11T20:11:26.477" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[6813],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20484" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="c2bb735e-6ca6-4636-ac76-8b317dbbaa61" CreationDate="2017-02-11T20:11:31.597" UserId="8" Comment="to http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6813/small-and-cheap-pc-box-to-install-linux-and-a-development-lamp-webserver" />
  <row Id="20486" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="6823" RevisionGUID="03e86a50-8725-4259-94e8-b98641824dd2" CreationDate="2017-02-11T20:11:31.597" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6826" RevisionGUID="74fa2061-14da-4bbc-8e6b-1912c1e83b50" CreationDate="2017-02-12T01:14:20.217" UserId="3980" Text="After some poking around, the closest I came to meeting your question's requirements was this: **[Black Aluminum MicroSD USB Card Reader works with all sizes TF card capacities][1]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Meets most of your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fixed USB A connector&#xD;&#xA; - Works as a micro-sd adapter/flashdrive&#xD;&#xA; - Intended to be used for keyring-carry&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Doesn't quite meet these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Metal unibody construction, the aluminum casing covers everything except the ends. (good enough though?)&#xD;&#xA; - Does not include a large key-chain hole. You can get around this issue by adding a larger split circular key-chain on to the included one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can buy this MicroSd Card reader/flashdrive [from Newegg for $6.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can buy 25mm/~1&quot; split circular key-rings also [from Newegg for about $1.][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?espv=2&amp;q=microsd%20flash%20drive%20keychain%20aluminum&amp;oq=microsd%20flash%20drive%20keychain%20aluminum&amp;gs_l=serp.3...13013.14717.0.14845.9.9.0.0.0.0.144.974.0j8.8.0....0...1c.1.64.serp..1.7.865...33i160k1j33i21k1.D8IFLy0vHfc&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0UW0YM8623&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Card%20Reader%2FAdapter-_-9SIA0UW0YM8623&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAifvEBRCVx5up6Ojgr5oBEiQALHw1TinINIaRF4KMILU0ixUBKO8es0NXu5aNVovLIF5Q0HEaAlqC8P8HAQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAUJ41K8289&amp;cm_re=split_key_ring-_-9SIAAUJ41K8289-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20494" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="81ea9fb0-8f87-48e6-86d1-646225626ed1" CreationDate="2017-02-12T01:21:13.117" UserId="5445" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="c9a007ba-a062-435a-991c-ba629c55a722" CreationDate="2017-02-12T01:32:25.877" UserId="5445" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20498" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="b1efbb48-5c7a-4974-af6a-aa85ebde85d2" CreationDate="2017-02-12T03:18:01.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6821" RevisionGUID="3b9c1a2d-735f-4fd1-8c0b-0d73f4fdc4af" CreationDate="2017-02-12T04:17:40.120" UserId="3980" Comment="added 120 characters in body" Text="Considering your budget and existing hardware, a Nvidia GTX 1050ti will fit your needs nicely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation would be **Zotac's GTX 1050ti Mini**. However, you will get similar if not identical performance from other non-reference 1050ti(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find Zotac's 1050ti Mini for **$140 from [Amazon][1] or [Newegg][2].**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1050ti fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Within your budget.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with your system.&#xD;&#xA; - You can play GTA V and other games at reasonable quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CUDA support (GPU assisted rendering), if you use video editing software that's CUDA compatiable.&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require PCIE power connectors. Its peak power consumption is &lt;75W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple things to take note of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You should not have bottlenecking issues with your FX8350.&#xD;&#xA; - Your motherboard supports PCIe 2.0, but the GTX 1050ti is PCIe 3.0. This [wont' be an issue either][3].&#xD;&#xA; - Make sure you have enough wattage headroom for additional components. Most builds do, but it never hurts to double check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10510A-10L/dp/B01MCU1ERO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486799478&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gtx%201050ti&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500411&amp;cm_re=zotac_1050ti-_-14-500-411-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3248140/gtx-1050-pcie.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="cdc46e21-d04b-4136-a2be-bd9ff1fd3db9" CreationDate="2017-02-12T15:19:41.497" UserId="531" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're going to need to do some comparison shopping for your local market, but *currently* retailers seem to be selling off the [35 inch SE39UY04][1] at around 350-400 USD - see [newegg][2] and [amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked up a [Crossover 289K][4], sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend). I've been running it for over a year now, and its been fine so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've *not* gotten a chance to test this with a HDMI 2.0 source (I should, but I'm lazy) and I'm still in the process of caliberating it manually - Its acceptable out of the box but I'm trying to match it with my other monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 3 x HDMI 2.0 (one of which does MHL) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player. It also supports HCDP 2.0 though there's no way for me to check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. Colour caliberation went a long way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like many of these cheap screens, it seems to have some degree of backlight bleed, but this is primarily obvious in perfect darkness and I'm planning on experimenting with bias lighting to see if it helps. Would still totally recommend this as a second monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&amp;pg=289k&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6828" RevisionGUID="03d6787b-0206-4791-9eb5-9e6f254c4f9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T20:17:09.520" UserId="5445" Text="I used to have a Mophie Pack for my iPhone 5.  It was a charging case that plugged into Apple's Lightning cables.  But I just got an iPhone 7, and it seems that all the charging cases available for it, both by Mophie and by other companies, plug into micro-USB cables, i.e. the kind of cables used to charge Android devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, are there any iPhone charging cases that plug into Lightning cables?  That would be much more convenient for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20506" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6828" RevisionGUID="03d6787b-0206-4791-9eb5-9e6f254c4f9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T20:17:09.520" UserId="5445" Text="An iPhone 7 charging case which plugs into Lightning cables" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20507" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6828" RevisionGUID="03d6787b-0206-4791-9eb5-9e6f254c4f9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T20:17:09.520" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="60df9a9e-38c3-4a56-83b9-6276517b4fed" CreationDate="2017-02-12T20:24:14.913" UserId="5445" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="There are three main ways to deliver 3D:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Anagylph, the type of 3D involving the old red-blue glasses&#xD;&#xA;- Passive 3D, the type of 3D you see in movie theaters nowadays, involving circularly polarized light&#xD;&#xA;- Active 3D, the type of 3D found in most 3D glasses, involving active-shutter glasses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you can view Anaglyph 3D on essentially any TV. And there are even products like [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005SN3INA) which takes 3D content designed for Passive or Active 3D and converts them to Anaglyph so they can be viewed on non-3D TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any products that allow you to view either active or passive 3D on a non-3D TV? It seems there was such a product called [3DNOW](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009E7WDLO) in 2012, but it appears to have been discontinued. Are there any similar products currently on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 4K TV, so resolution shouldn't be a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6830" RevisionGUID="d6e95a20-5725-4eff-b9dd-4a60ec00aa9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:04:31.710" UserId="5445" Text="I tend to carelessly yank my iPhone and iPad off of their charging cables, which leads to either the metal connector tip coming off or causes the cable to fray.  As a result, I go through iPhone cables like I go through socks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, are there any (nearly) unbreakable iPhone cables that stand up to such wear and tear?  I've tried numerous brands of nylon-braided cables.  They tend to solve the &quot;cables fraying&quot; issue, but the metal connector tips keep coming off.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only cable I've come across that claims to protect the connector is the &quot;Snakable&quot; cable, but it's only 4 feet long.  I want a cable that's 6 feet or longer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6830" RevisionGUID="d6e95a20-5725-4eff-b9dd-4a60ec00aa9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:04:31.710" UserId="5445" Text="An unbreakable iPhone charging cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6830" RevisionGUID="d6e95a20-5725-4eff-b9dd-4a60ec00aa9e" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:04:31.710" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6831" RevisionGUID="d28a7df1-0d16-4821-aca6-dc80d7952cb3" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:31:48.047" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6831" RevisionGUID="d28a7df1-0d16-4821-aca6-dc80d7952cb3" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:31:48.047" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6832" RevisionGUID="11a37f87-8f40-4ab7-9f08-fa9617451ce7" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:31:48.047" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20519" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6832" RevisionGUID="11a37f87-8f40-4ab7-9f08-fa9617451ce7" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:31:48.047" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20520" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6833" RevisionGUID="6aaeb6ab-1e65-49b2-bfe0-cdd6dbcd8ef6" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:39:07.413" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20521" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6833" RevisionGUID="6aaeb6ab-1e65-49b2-bfe0-cdd6dbcd8ef6" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:39:07.413" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6834" RevisionGUID="ee9ac8b3-eb35-44cf-9d2f-a9e69db2b0e9" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:39:07.413" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20523" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6834" RevisionGUID="ee9ac8b3-eb35-44cf-9d2f-a9e69db2b0e9" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:39:07.413" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20524" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="e0f15eae-916f-4455-a51d-21e86cf90be3" CreationDate="2017-02-12T22:40:42.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6835" RevisionGUID="009ff696-da0a-481f-82e7-f1b04afbf9c8" CreationDate="2017-02-13T00:55:31.887" UserId="2370" Text="Magnetic Znaps perhapz: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1041610927/znaps-the-9-magnetic-adapter-for-your-mobile-devic&#xA;&#xA;There are similar products available on sites like DealExtreme and AliExpress, and is also available for Android and any other devices that use micro USB or USB-C." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6835" RevisionGUID="a65bbcf7-65f2-450b-971a-8034021a25de" CreationDate="2017-02-13T01:00:32.690" UserId="2370" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="Magnetic Znaps perhapz: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1041610927/znaps-the-9-magnetic-adapter-for-your-mobile-devic&#xA;&#xA;There are similar products available on sites like DealExtreme and AliExpress, and also available for Android and any other devices that use micro USB or USB-C." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20527" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6832" RevisionGUID="b7fa8bcc-1eb9-4358-8b9e-1a8c7f87e6e3" CreationDate="2017-02-13T04:40:48.950" UserId="3980" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="For questions asking about hardware used for regulating fan speed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20528" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6832" RevisionGUID="b7fa8bcc-1eb9-4358-8b9e-1a8c7f87e6e3" CreationDate="2017-02-13T04:40:48.950" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 155 edit id of 568" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6834" RevisionGUID="3d729673-f671-4b75-868f-6a71126a4b1c" CreationDate="2017-02-13T04:41:37.540" UserId="3980" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="For questions asking about UHD (4k or 8k) displays. Or about the hardware necessary for running those displays." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20530" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6834" RevisionGUID="3d729673-f671-4b75-868f-6a71126a4b1c" CreationDate="2017-02-13T04:41:37.540" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by -1 edit id of 569" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6834" RevisionGUID="c12fcd95-45cd-435a-b329-b581c6d6d688" CreationDate="2017-02-13T04:41:37.540" UserId="155" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="For questions about Ultra HD (4k or 8k) displays or about the hardware necessary for running those displays." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6836" RevisionGUID="e58b3a71-33a0-4619-91eb-0705c5095e10" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:33:22.370" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20533" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6836" RevisionGUID="e58b3a71-33a0-4619-91eb-0705c5095e10" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:33:22.370" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20534" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6837" RevisionGUID="1c3f0e83-2a9b-4411-bfe5-7c28a246eacc" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:33:22.370" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20535" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6837" RevisionGUID="1c3f0e83-2a9b-4411-bfe5-7c28a246eacc" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:33:22.370" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6838" RevisionGUID="87bc41c8-83c9-441c-9485-1e58e2eaea2a" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:42:02.177" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20537" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6838" RevisionGUID="87bc41c8-83c9-441c-9485-1e58e2eaea2a" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:42:02.177" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6839" RevisionGUID="d5e5b127-18cb-4d1d-8b83-0cb03742de9c" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:42:02.177" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20539" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6839" RevisionGUID="d5e5b127-18cb-4d1d-8b83-0cb03742de9c" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:42:02.177" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6840" RevisionGUID="32bada5a-60a8-401e-b14a-1fa2b8ad94ab" CreationDate="2017-02-13T10:37:36.490" UserId="5595" Text="I am thinking about buying a CPU to use for a Minecraft server -- the problem is that Minecraft is very bad at hyperthreading, only actually using one core. So it doesn't matter if my CPU has 2, 4 or 16 cores -- I need just one to be the quickest. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one and, more important, how should I choose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20542" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6840" RevisionGUID="32bada5a-60a8-401e-b14a-1fa2b8ad94ab" CreationDate="2017-02-13T10:37:36.490" UserId="5595" Text="Which (better Intel) CPU gives the highest per-core speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20543" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6840" RevisionGUID="32bada5a-60a8-401e-b14a-1fa2b8ad94ab" CreationDate="2017-02-13T10:37:36.490" UserId="5595" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20551" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6828" RevisionGUID="d7161a2d-ce1a-42fd-aaed-ba6e36a83737" CreationDate="2017-02-13T11:58:39.700" UserId="8" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I used to have a Mophie Pack for my iPhone 5.  It was a charging case that plugged into Apple's Lightning cables.  But I just got an iPhone 7, and it seems that all the charging cases available for it, both by Mophie and by other companies, plug into micro-USB cables, i.e. the kind of cables used to charge Android devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, are there any iPhone 7 charging cases that plug into Lightning cables?  That would be much more convenient for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20553" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6840" RevisionGUID="f1ce2dd2-6962-42ed-a53d-d5bd6ef7f417" CreationDate="2017-02-13T12:00:08.450" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20557" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6828" RevisionGUID="cfe33b9d-1817-481a-8890-9dec1be19a40" CreationDate="2017-02-13T15:50:15.927" UserId="5445" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20558" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1784" RevisionGUID="c8ecf580-c573-495c-b525-f0a086667c95" CreationDate="2017-02-13T16:42:44.847" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="97fb8b19-76c1-4359-b9b8-8f7cc3e53808" CreationDate="2017-02-13T20:39:26.740" UserId="5445" Comment="added 30 characters in body" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later running on iOS 9 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March but is available for pre-order now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20561" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="9315060a-db8a-474e-a98c-1d2bf1f1e069" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:38:50.283" UserId="5449" Text="So I have gone through a lot of cheapo headphones because the headphones blow out.&#xD;&#xA;Are there headphones that can't be blown out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like them to fit in a pocket and not be like the big ones that go on your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20562" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="9315060a-db8a-474e-a98c-1d2bf1f1e069" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:38:50.283" UserId="5449" Text="Headphones you can't blow out" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20563" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="9315060a-db8a-474e-a98c-1d2bf1f1e069" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:38:50.283" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6844" RevisionGUID="8745d066-5090-45fe-a186-4032498c7d76" CreationDate="2017-02-14T04:57:35.150" UserId="4523" Text="To answer your question:  No, there are no headphones(over the ear, on the ear, earbuds) in existence that cannot be: Blown out, have their speaker components damaged over time from being played at maximum output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same goes for high end speaker systems.  Running a speaker system at full blast puts stress on all components, which will lead to parts needing to be replaced.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20566" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="54425109-cd81-41ab-b18c-668eeee57304" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:11:16.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6845" RevisionGUID="41973b31-dede-4676-9e99-55d74667910e" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:18:52.590" UserId="5563" Text="I'm a software developer looking for more real estate on my desktop.  I play occasional games, but not as much as I'd like.  My budget is at or around 1k.  I'm worried that if I get one that's too small, I'll end up having to zoom the text to even be able to read my source code.  If I get one that's too big, I'll end up with neck issues.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;28 inches?  30 inches?  32 inches?  Something else?  I've got a GTX 1080, does it matter if it's a G-Sync monitor or V-Sync?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this list of G-Sync 4k monitors, but the reviews are pretty sparse.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/20BFn.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6845" RevisionGUID="41973b31-dede-4676-9e99-55d74667910e" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:18:52.590" UserId="5563" Text="4K Monitor for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6845" RevisionGUID="41973b31-dede-4676-9e99-55d74667910e" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:18:52.590" UserId="5563" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6837" RevisionGUID="4be537ad-fa0d-4b89-9dd8-c820c270d414" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:47:30.867" UserId="3980" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="For questions regarding hardware supporting 4k resolutions. For example, hardware for: 4k displays, 4k resolution, 4k input/output, 4k gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20571" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6837" RevisionGUID="4be537ad-fa0d-4b89-9dd8-c820c270d414" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:47:30.867" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 203, 1 edit id of 570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20572" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6839" RevisionGUID="aa291804-e856-447c-8485-7320dde5f7b8" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:47:46.203" UserId="3980" Comment="added 289 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware related to CPUs (central processing units). For example, some hardware recommendation questions tagged with [cpu] may ask about: CPU performance, CPU TDP, CPU bottlenecking, CPU architectures (e.g. x86, x64, single core, multi-core etc...) See [processor] tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20573" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6839" RevisionGUID="aa291804-e856-447c-8485-7320dde5f7b8" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:47:46.203" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 571" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6839" RevisionGUID="99e8e105-f146-46b3-aa0c-357dfbf30e30" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:47:46.203" UserId="1" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="For questions about hardware related to CPUs (central processing units). For example, some hardware recommendation questions tagged with [cpu] may ask about: CPU performance, CPU TDP, CPU bottlenecking, CPU architectures (e.g. x86, x64, single core, multi-core etc...) See the [processor] tag." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6846" RevisionGUID="b8625b2b-09bf-4a44-bf1c-9398f4e9c1e2" CreationDate="2017-02-14T07:06:09.420" UserId="5440" Text="In my opinion, to view code/text on a 4K screen without zoom (hence the &quot;more real estate&quot;), you cannot settle for a smaller screen size but go all the way up to a 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you don't need to spend $1300 (which is out of your budget) for that Acer 32&quot;. Check out the [BenQ BL3201PH][1] which is a great 32&quot; 4K at a bit more of a reasonable price point, but still a very good piece.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It was [**The best 4K monitors**][2] list from Engadget. And here is how they describe it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The BenQ BL3201PH is a beast. It's the best 4K monitor you can buy if&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you have room on your desk for its 32-inch screen. The biggest benefit&#xD;&#xA;&gt; of a giant 4K monitor is that you might not need to scale your display&#xD;&#xA;&gt; when running the monitor at its native resolution. That way, you'll&#xD;&#xA;&gt; avoid one of the main issues plaguing 4K—third-party apps that look&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ugly, blurry, or too tiny to use when Windows embiggens your on-screen&#xD;&#xA;&gt; items.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Of all the large 4K monitors we looked at, the BL3201PH offers the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; best combination of price and performance, plenty of connectivity, all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the right ergonomic adjustments, and a good assortment of features in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; an easy-to-navigate configuration screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2l2KO5t&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.engadget.com/2016/11/04/the-best-4k-monitors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20576" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6846" RevisionGUID="bcbfc582-2fc4-47d4-84be-2940b7c3dd11" CreationDate="2017-02-14T07:12:29.323" UserId="5440" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="In my opinion, to view code/text on a 4K screen without zoom (hence the &quot;more real estate&quot;), you cannot settle for a smaller screen size but go all the way up to a 32&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you don't need to spend $1300 (which is out of your budget) for that Acer 32&quot;. Check out the [BenQ BL3201PH][1] which is a great 32&quot; 4K at a bit more of a reasonable price point, but still a very good piece.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It was the only 32&quot; on [**The best 4K monitors**][2] list from Engadget. And here is how they describe it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The BenQ BL3201PH is a beast. It's the best 4K monitor you can buy if&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you have room on your desk for its 32-inch screen. The biggest benefit&#xD;&#xA;&gt; of a giant 4K monitor is that you might not need to scale your display&#xD;&#xA;&gt; when running the monitor at its native resolution. That way, you'll&#xD;&#xA;&gt; avoid one of the main issues plaguing 4K—third-party apps that look&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ugly, blurry, or too tiny to use when Windows embiggens your on-screen&#xD;&#xA;&gt; items.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Of all the large 4K monitors we looked at, the BL3201PH offers the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; best combination of price and performance, plenty of connectivity, all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the right ergonomic adjustments, and a good assortment of features in&#xD;&#xA;&gt; an easy-to-navigate configuration screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2l2KO5t&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.engadget.com/2016/11/04/the-best-4k-monitors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6847" RevisionGUID="bc4ee597-4689-470b-99fc-353ffd6e0b92" CreationDate="2017-02-14T13:06:35.007" UserId="531" Text="According to my sources (and [I have a detailed answer on SU][1] on the subject, including a handy graph and links to a spreadsheet) - 27&quot; is *pretty&quot; darned close to the sweetspot for PC use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I game on a 980TI at that resolution (which is fine) but I've  driven 4k60 off much older/less high end video cards. I don't use gsync (which is mainly for gaming) and vsync is unrelated. Personally I don't *think* g-sync would be that useful here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Personally* I'd suggest the dell [P2715Q][2]. I have one and its *glorious*. Its the &quot;sweet spot&quot; 27&quot; which is just right for the distance I sit at - roughly 1.25m. Its IPS (and this matters in terms of colour quality), and comes calibrated out of the box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wirecutter considers it the [*best* 4k monitor][3] of *any size* - and its reasonably priced compared to most options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the *essentials* - pair of DP 1.2 ports (one micro and one standard) and one more to let you daisy chain (Don't daisy chain) , HDMI/MHL (4k30 only tho) in case you need to plug in a non PC device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a few nice things like an onboard USB 3.0 hub and the *ability to turn off the powerlight when its in use*. This sounds like a minor thing but its awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with the dell stands - which are pretty much the best in the industry and let tilt, pivot and adjust heights to your preferences. You can trivially swap these out for standard VESA mounts for wall or multi monitor mounts, or a dell 2 monitor stand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fonts are readable (at 150% UI scaling on windows 10) and *seriously* crisp. What 4K content I've tested so far looks great too. I've basically ploughed through several novels and a few hundred stackexchange answers on this and its not fatiguing at all. I've gamed on it (though my 980TI sometimes wheezes during particularly demanding scenes) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com/questions/990799/will-the-pixel-density-difference-be-visible-between-4k-and-2k-monitors-at-27-s/991823#991823&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=04&amp;l=en&amp;sku=210-ADOF&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-4k-monitors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="f5b1c624-c16a-412f-86b7-13c8757be190" CreationDate="2017-02-14T14:35:10.213" UserId="5449" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="So I have gone through a lot of cheapo headphones because the headphones blow out.&#xD;&#xA;Are there headphones that can't be blown out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like them to fit in a pocket and not be like the big ones that go on your head.  I'm using the earbuds with an android phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20580" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="90967016-9356-4615-8da1-ca91889db000" CreationDate="2017-02-14T15:38:31.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6848" RevisionGUID="c716c9d2-0634-4c6e-aa96-38be7ad2c047" CreationDate="2017-02-14T17:42:20.110" UserId="4504" Text="I found [This Runsy iPhone 7 case][1] It looks like it uses a lightning passthough, so you won't need to carry a pesky micro usb cable around. The only limitation is that it does not work with headphones with lightning connectors.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Overall, it has a 4 out of 5 star review. Let me know if this fits the bill. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZVJ9SZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0&amp;deviceType=desktop&amp;ref_=de_a_smtd&amp;showDetailTechData=1#technical-data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6849" RevisionGUID="c1589f84-104d-4e70-b22f-47951f71bd60" CreationDate="2017-02-14T23:42:29.683" UserId="5602" Text="I'm looking to buy a new laptop, and I've narrowed it down to two models, with the only difference between them being the processor. The first model has an i5-6300HQ, and the second one has an i7-6700HQ. Both models come with a 1TB HDD out of the box and 8GB of DDR4-2133 RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage would include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - multimedia playback, web browsing, MS Office&#xD;&#xA; - programming (mostly Android Studio and Eclipse, maybe PyCharm, maybe some MySQL)&#xD;&#xA; - occasionally running virtual machines (but very rarely more than one at a time)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question would be: is it better to buy the i5 model and add a very fast PCIe/NVMe SSD, or buy the i7 model and add a SATA3 SSD? Given that the i7 / PCIe SSD combination would be slightly out of my budget at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance for help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20583" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6849" RevisionGUID="c1589f84-104d-4e70-b22f-47951f71bd60" CreationDate="2017-02-14T23:42:29.683" UserId="5602" Text="Faster SSD (PCIe) vs faster processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20584" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6849" RevisionGUID="c1589f84-104d-4e70-b22f-47951f71bd60" CreationDate="2017-02-14T23:42:29.683" UserId="5602" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20585" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="bf1194a5-cd0a-443d-b75d-0bebcd1e3b98" CreationDate="2017-02-15T01:43:27.910" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6850" RevisionGUID="5b93b42d-eb9e-40e9-a673-9fc979d7db84" CreationDate="2017-02-15T12:27:08.703" UserId="5606" Text="This is the product: [HDMI Extender via Single SC Fiber&#xD;&#xA;Support 3D/4K2K][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And this is the cable I want to use: [5m Fiber optic Cable (SC connectors)][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure if the cable is suitable for the hardware. Because the only info about that is seen on the aliexpress is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Desc][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the specification of the HW is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HW Desc][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How will I know if they are good match for 4K video transmission? Could you explain technically? Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.apacoe.com.tw/datasheet/62/AH-UD-200-1SC-XX_V1.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2pcs-Simplex-SC-UPC-SC-UPC-Transparent-Cable-TAC-0-9mm-PVC-G657A1-Invisible-Cable-5m/1800675_32768663631.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYaRY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSqs6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20590" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6850" RevisionGUID="5b93b42d-eb9e-40e9-a673-9fc979d7db84" CreationDate="2017-02-15T12:27:08.703" UserId="5606" Text="How to choose suitable fiber cables for this HDMI Extender?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20591" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6850" RevisionGUID="5b93b42d-eb9e-40e9-a673-9fc979d7db84" CreationDate="2017-02-15T12:27:08.703" UserId="5606" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20595" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6235" RevisionGUID="733c3f85-ad4a-4020-8ec2-9d25d9d6bb3e" CreationDate="2017-02-15T12:55:26.410" UserId="-1" Comment="50" />
  <row Id="20597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6852" RevisionGUID="faba3c89-2b46-4d46-8336-7b7cb0b6a774" CreationDate="2017-02-15T14:14:54.003" UserId="4523" Text="The product information page recommends the following fiber specifications:  9/125 um Single-mode fiber. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  I would go with [3mm 10M 9/125um Fiber Optic Jumper Cable SC/UPC-SC/UPC Fiber Optic Patch Cord](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-SM-SX-3mm-10M-9-125um-Fiber-Optic-Jumper-Cable-SC-UPC-SC-UPC/32269334570.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.186.1bXE9t&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10000073_10068_10501_10000074_10503_10000032_119_10000030_10000026_10000023_431_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_10059_10099_10000020_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000053_10000007_10000050_10084_10083_10000100_10080_10000047_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10115_10000041_10000044_10078_10079_10000038_10073_10000035_10122_10123_10121_10124-10503_10501,searchweb201603_3,afswitch_2,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_1_default&amp;btsid=b0b8aa64-6576-4533-b342-27af860a81de).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Meets suggested specs, and is less expensive than the cable you have listed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6853" RevisionGUID="c3d3799c-f671-4df0-a52c-31ca957c4303" CreationDate="2017-02-15T14:56:15.657" UserId="4032" Text="setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - INTEL Core i5-3450 3.10GHz 1155 &#xD;&#xA; - ASROCK B75 Pro3 	 &#xD;&#xA; - (**2 x 8GB**) KINGSTON 16384MB HyperX Blu DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 KIT KHX16C10B1K2/16X&#xD;&#xA; - Dell E2414HM LED Monitor, 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have like 350$ budget, but this is only an upper limit. I was thinking about Nvidia 1060, 6GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it for casual gaming, would like to run the new games on high res for 1-2 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6853" RevisionGUID="c3d3799c-f671-4df0-a52c-31ca957c4303" CreationDate="2017-02-15T14:56:15.657" UserId="4032" Text="Recommend graphics card for setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6853" RevisionGUID="c3d3799c-f671-4df0-a52c-31ca957c4303" CreationDate="2017-02-15T14:56:15.657" UserId="4032" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6853" RevisionGUID="83f1ac61-d4e3-4bea-9488-0f3cc96e4bc8" CreationDate="2017-02-15T15:03:26.207" UserId="4032" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - INTEL Core i5-3450 3.10GHz 1155 &#xD;&#xA; - ASROCK B75 Pro3 	 &#xD;&#xA; - (**2 x 8GB**) KINGSTON 16384MB HyperX Blu DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 KIT KHX16C10B1K2/16X&#xD;&#xA; - Dell E2414HM LED Monitor, 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 350$ budget, but this is only an upper limit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about Nvidia 1060, 6GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it for casual gaming, would like to run the new games on high res for 1-2 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6849" RevisionGUID="ac74837f-e93e-4380-996f-d08cc238a7c9" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:05:44.783" UserId="5602" Comment="Added additional details about the question" Text="I'm looking to buy a new laptop, and I've narrowed it down to two models, with the only difference between them being the processor. The first model has an i5-6300HQ, and the second one has an i7-6700HQ. Both models come with a 1TB HDD out of the box and 8GB of DDR4-2133 RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage would include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - multimedia playback, web browsing, MS Office&#xD;&#xA; - programming (mostly Android Studio and Eclipse, maybe PyCharm, maybe some MySQL)&#xD;&#xA; - occasionally running virtual machines (but very rarely more than one at a time)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question would be: is it better to buy the i5 model and add a very fast PCIe/NVMe SSD, or buy the i7 model and add a slower SATA3 SSD? Given that the i7 / PCIe SSD combination would be slightly out of my budget at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance for help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: The two models I've found are both Lenovo Ideapad 700-15ISK. They are the same, only the CPU is different. My budget is somewhere between $850 and $1000 (converted from local currency), depending on specific configuration (for example, whether it has an SSD out of the box or would I have to buy it additionally). However, I do believe that one of these two Lenovo models would be best for me, because they offer pretty good bang for the buck, and both have PCIe/NVMe slots, which are also easily reachable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20607" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6854" RevisionGUID="093b7cf3-2a58-4a26-bba3-d314ac376614" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:10:02.230" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20608" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6854" RevisionGUID="093b7cf3-2a58-4a26-bba3-d314ac376614" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:10:02.230" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6855" RevisionGUID="4be157a0-0d72-4f3e-b62b-0e115f1a45cf" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:10:02.230" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20610" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6855" RevisionGUID="4be157a0-0d72-4f3e-b62b-0e115f1a45cf" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:10:02.230" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6853" RevisionGUID="6bfffb81-f8bf-418a-9c41-dd38f856b153" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:11:36.450" UserId="4032" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="Setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - INTEL Core i5-3450 3.10GHz 1155 &#xD;&#xA; - ASROCK B75 Pro3 	 &#xD;&#xA; - (**2 x 8GB**) KINGSTON 16384MB HyperX Blu DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 KIT KHX16C10B1K2/16X&#xD;&#xA; - Dell E2414HM LED Monitor, 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - THERMALTAKE TR2 RX W0146RE 450W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 350$ budget, but this is only an upper limit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about Nvidia 1060, 6GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it for casual gaming, would like to run the new games on high res for 1-2 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6856" RevisionGUID="34ee3359-d3a2-480f-927b-1ebae9dbfde8" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:12:40.873" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20613" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6856" RevisionGUID="34ee3359-d3a2-480f-927b-1ebae9dbfde8" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:12:40.873" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6857" RevisionGUID="8824f3ff-7909-4da7-819b-403803df4f48" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:12:40.873" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20615" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6857" RevisionGUID="8824f3ff-7909-4da7-819b-403803df4f48" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:12:40.873" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6858" RevisionGUID="6182b6b7-e1c1-486d-a70f-f798b6a1db6f" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:16:43.637" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6858" RevisionGUID="6182b6b7-e1c1-486d-a70f-f798b6a1db6f" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:16:43.637" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6859" RevisionGUID="2ccd688d-6c07-4ff8-bbd2-93dc446c4bc4" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:16:43.637" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6859" RevisionGUID="2ccd688d-6c07-4ff8-bbd2-93dc446c4bc4" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:16:43.637" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20620" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6860" RevisionGUID="9cec84b4-1d63-4753-b891-5306af1f0300" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:58:23.710" UserId="3980" Text="Considering your budget of $350, some sort of a non-reference Nvidia GTX 1060 is going to be a pretty good option.&#xA;&#xA;I personally have a GTX 1060 that I occasionally game on. However I primarily use it for CUDA. I am quite satisfied with its performance for how much I paid.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;**The GTX 1060 meets your requirements:**&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Under budget of $350&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Can play modern games with good quality&#xA; &#xA;**In Addition:**&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Your PSU meets the recommended PSU wattage. However, you will need a molex to 8 pin PCIe power or a 6 pin PCIe to 8 pin PCIe adapter.&#xA; &#xA; - It supports CUDA, if ever you need to use GPU assisted rendering.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;In conclusion:&#xA;&#xA;I would recommend a GTX 1060, such as this Twin Frozr VI from MSI, which you can get for [$260 on Amazon][1] or for [$275 on Newegg][2].&#xA;&#xA;In addition to the GPU, you will need a power adapter since your PSU only has a 6 pin PCIE power connector. Such as [this one on Amazon for $4][3].&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKYD5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487176899&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=msi%20gtx%201060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ATILxFwwL&amp;ref=plSrch&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127963&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JLTCMFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487177598&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=6pin%20to%208pin&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41LwcYbQkzL&amp;ref=plSrch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20624" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="b014cc3a-a0b9-48c6-99db-8f18e0118298" CreationDate="2017-02-15T19:56:34.617" UserId="1410" Comment="edited body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple 3.5&quot; harddrives and lots of RAM. I currently have 1tB + 2tB and 16gB. I want much more &amp; since desktop drives &amp; RAM are cheaper, I think that I am looking for a slimline desktop, which I can sit in my lap(!) - but what about a screen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, thin desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few 3.5&quot; drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question is whether there is any such device at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Highly priced laptops don't seem to be the way to go. It is looking like a small desktop. One which can sit atop my lap. I _*suppose*_ that I could sit it on the floor beside me  ... actually, the biggest challenge seems to be getting a  screen and keyboard onto my lap (drive a latop from a desktop?). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20625" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="f858d392-100f-48bc-a5e6-9c959d006bb1" CreationDate="2017-02-15T19:59:23.887" UserId="1410" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a basic phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such a thing is still manufactured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life phones. Now they don't make phones (if they are even still in business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have fond memories of a small, grey, rubberized Nokia - was it an N45? - with a screen barely an inch in diagonal (just three lines of display), and I'd be glad of something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need Daul SIM, Wifi, BlueTooth, GPS, color screen, radio, not even music player; just calls &amp; texts (and those will be few, and far between).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question][1] looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIM, which I do not require.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Nokia are [relaunching the 3310][2]. 100 hours standby for Eur 59&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vanguardngr.com/2017/02/nokia-3310-makes-a-comback/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6862" RevisionGUID="33b9002f-c1b8-42f3-931f-f3e75a02db05" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:09:18.553" UserId="1633" Text="I just bought a [new case](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy-m) that is made for mini or micro atx motherboards.  The Bitfenix Prodigy M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I got an [MSI B150M Pro-VD](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NIDX1E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) Micro ATX motherboard, and it wasn't ideal because I got a KabyLake processor, and this motherboard requires a bios update for it to use KabyLake.  Instead of finding an old cpu, and messing around with all of that, I decided to get a motherboard that was made for KabyLake.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ordered an [MSI B250M Pro-VDH](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6O79PB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) Micro ATX motherboard.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though these are both Micro ATX motherboards, they are completely different sizes.  The second one doesn't fix in the case, as it is much larger.  The screw holes don't line up.  I thought all Micro ATX motherboards were the same size....if not, what is the difference, and how can I tell?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20627" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6862" RevisionGUID="33b9002f-c1b8-42f3-931f-f3e75a02db05" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:09:18.553" UserId="1633" Text="Why are these Micro-ATX motherboards different sizes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20628" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6862" RevisionGUID="33b9002f-c1b8-42f3-931f-f3e75a02db05" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:09:18.553" UserId="1633" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20629" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="03e4d959-0073-4f65-8db1-fea0be185e96" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:59:28.703" UserId="-1" Comment="51" />
  <row Id="20630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6863" RevisionGUID="48902ed7-d153-44cd-8f25-5d822e337bef" CreationDate="2017-02-15T21:44:35.730" UserId="4523" Text="The B150M states on the first page that it is a uATX, while the other states on its first page that it is an mATX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing to pay attention to is the actual product specifications, not just what the advertising title is." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20631" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="6863" RevisionGUID="2386d12a-3d0b-4dd4-a4dc-bc54f9b66786" CreationDate="2017-02-15T21:51:27.943" UserId="4523" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20636" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="efc3643b-0f0d-48ed-b0fa-936392bf0a5a" CreationDate="2017-02-15T22:46:59.977" UserId="5445" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR820](https://www.google.com/amp/www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2016/9/1/12734482/qualcomm-snapdragon-vr820-virtual-reality-standalone-headset)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Magic Leap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20638" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6865" RevisionGUID="d81f4c5b-cdef-47de-a494-f5f88e9ed366" CreationDate="2017-02-16T00:28:41.283" UserId="976" Text="I would say that for your use-case, go with the i5 6300QH with the PCIe-Based SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multimedia playback (Especially at higher bitrates and resolutions) will benefit more from a faster storage device. Faster reads from your disk will allow you to play and scrub through media without any buffering considering the much higher IOPS and lower latency.&#xD;&#xA; - Programming and code compiling will also benefit more from a faster storage device. You won't see much real world difference in terms of compile time between the i5 and i7, but with only 8GB of RAM you may notice much better paging performance when building larger projects.&#xD;&#xA; - From my experience, if you are just running a single VM, 4 cores/threads should be fine for most general-use VM applications (Programming in a Linux Environment for example). Again, you will notice more of a benefit from the faster SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some notes that you might want to consider as well:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The current laptop models you noted only has room for one 2.5&quot; SATA-Based storage device, meaning you would have to sacrifice that 1TB HDD for an SSD if you were to go with a SATA solution over the PCIe solution.&#xD;&#xA; - Much faster boot times (Both regular and virtualized).&#xD;&#xA; - For a laptop, you will also notice much faster wakes from sleep or hibernation.&#xD;&#xA; - All of your expected uses for the laptop don't really benefit from more threads (Although some may say more threads for Virtualization would be better)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6860" RevisionGUID="c21022a7-e63e-4531-8b02-4bfce9c16b55" CreationDate="2017-02-16T03:12:05.637" UserId="3980" Comment="deleted 112 characters in body" Text="Considering your budget of $350, some sort of a non-reference Nvidia GTX 1060 is going to be a pretty good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally have a GTX 1060 that I occasionally game on. However, I primarily use it for CUDA. I am quite satisfied with its performance for how much I paid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The GTX 1060 meets your requirements:**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Under budget of $350&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Can play modern games with good quality&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**In Addition:**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Your PSU meets the recommended PSU wattage. However, you will need a molex to 8 pin PCIe power or a 6 pin PCIe to 8 pin PCIe adapter.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - It supports CUDA, if ever you need to use GPU assisted rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend a GTX 1060, such as this Twin Frozr VI from MSI, which you can get for [$260 on Amazon][1] or for [$275 on Newegg][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKYD5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487176899&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=msi%20gtx%201060&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ATILxFwwL&amp;ref=plSrch&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127963&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JLTCMFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487177598&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=6pin%20to%208pin&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41LwcYbQkzL&amp;ref=plSrch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6859" RevisionGUID="3d7c046e-d7a6-4d94-847f-9c0a6941adab" CreationDate="2017-02-16T09:19:03.030" UserId="3980" Comment="added 252 characters in body" Text="For questions asking about earphones and the hardware necessary for using them. Earphones are audio devices that are used inside the pinna, or the visible part of your ear. For headphone or headset like devices, see the [headphones] and [headset] tags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20641" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6859" RevisionGUID="3d7c046e-d7a6-4d94-847f-9c0a6941adab" CreationDate="2017-02-16T09:19:03.030" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 57, 203 edit id of 574" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6857" RevisionGUID="c97343d4-2f64-451a-abd3-19d6e78af98d" CreationDate="2017-02-16T09:19:26.807" UserId="3980" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="For questions asking about SD cards and/or the hardware necessary for reading/writing them, such as SD card to USB adapters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20643" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6857" RevisionGUID="c97343d4-2f64-451a-abd3-19d6e78af98d" CreationDate="2017-02-16T09:19:26.807" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 57, 203 edit id of 573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6867" RevisionGUID="b8799325-115f-44b1-84bd-bbdbe8d39942" CreationDate="2017-02-16T12:30:47.860" UserId="1974" Text="Does there exist a cable where I can plug two hard drives into the same motherboard's sata slot and with the flip of a switch (between power-offs) switch between these two hard drives (without having to physically unplug anything)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in any other solution but the existence of what I'm describing (no USB, eSATA, bios, or bootloader answers please)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20648" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6867" RevisionGUID="b8799325-115f-44b1-84bd-bbdbe8d39942" CreationDate="2017-02-16T12:30:47.860" UserId="1974" Text="Internal Hard Drive Switcher" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20649" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6867" RevisionGUID="b8799325-115f-44b1-84bd-bbdbe8d39942" CreationDate="2017-02-16T12:30:47.860" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6868" RevisionGUID="f805b8b8-2a0b-43f0-843a-2812427c035f" CreationDate="2017-02-16T13:55:18.200" UserId="4523" Text="Here is something that can address your situation, but you will have to be a little flexible, due to the fact your desired cable fix does not exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay](https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Switch-Switches-5-25-Inch-HDD-PS6/dp/B00TZR3E70)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Idea is simple.  Have HDD/SSDs connected to each SATA port on the board, and have power distributed to each drive via the switch module.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can manually turn any device not in use off, and of course turn it back on when you need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6863" RevisionGUID="10a013af-231c-4993-9b4d-a2da048f61fb" CreationDate="2017-02-16T13:57:57.523" UserId="4523" Comment="deleted 80 characters in body" Text="To directly answer your question of why they are different sizes, they are different models, and both are within the micro-atx specification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20654" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="6863" RevisionGUID="562563e5-2921-4673-b4a8-5c14163fdb49" CreationDate="2017-02-16T13:58:01.713" UserId="4523" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6869" RevisionGUID="5530ebf7-8854-45f0-a62e-d14608157ced" CreationDate="2017-02-16T14:52:14.857" UserId="4504" Text="In a million years, I would have never thought that this existed. But.. [The Sata Switch is a thing.][1] This model, can hold 4 different SATA3 drives. &#xD;&#xA; [![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I read the product description and information, and it seems like it will do everything you are looking to do, for the cool price of 79.00.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Literally cuts the power from the unused drives, I'm assuming you have to power off/switch HDD/Power on in order to get this to work correctly, but its a pretty cool little device.    &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only one sata cable goes to your motherboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cooldrives.com/index.php/4posaiisw3ba.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBCzK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20660" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6862" RevisionGUID="9cd8f200-8702-428d-8457-00e0b179eee2" CreationDate="2017-02-16T19:32:54.810" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3980,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0-60FPS&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20661" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="c6aac597-3b54-4eb1-81e1-bfa3f3244938" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:10:01.240" UserId="5612" Text="Why is the macbook screen so good?&#xD;&#xA;I love the screen on my macbook 15 retina late 2013 model.&#xD;&#xA;It has a native screen resolution of 2800 x 1800 and are scaled by two. So the effective resolution is 1400x900.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried many different monitors and just cant find one that comes near my macbook. Does someone knows if such a monitor exits?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have glass and a dpi not higher than 110." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20662" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="c6aac597-3b54-4eb1-81e1-bfa3f3244938" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:10:01.240" UserId="5612" Text="Is there a monitor thats looks as good as my macbook 15 pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20663" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="c6aac597-3b54-4eb1-81e1-bfa3f3244938" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:10:01.240" UserId="5612" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20664" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="9b5783d2-ea0a-460c-902c-ff4a10c49829" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:26:56.027" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20666" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="2f0de9a0-c0de-4ef5-8633-3bdad8d8cf88" CreationDate="2017-02-16T22:25:37.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="45318c9b-26ea-4c5e-8e51-bcef4f38d466" CreationDate="2017-02-17T03:06:52.857" UserId="4523" Comment="Made title and question less preachy and more question-y." Text="I am looking for an external monitor that is comparable to the Retina display on my late 2013 MacBook, can anyone suggest options or help as far as what specifications I should be looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20670" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="45318c9b-26ea-4c5e-8e51-bcef4f38d466" CreationDate="2017-02-17T03:06:52.857" UserId="4523" Comment="Made title and question less preachy and more question-y." Text="Looking for external monitor comparable to my MacBook Retina display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20671" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="45318c9b-26ea-4c5e-8e51-bcef4f38d466" CreationDate="2017-02-17T03:06:52.857" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 8 edit id of 575" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20672" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="b24faee0-aae6-4710-b1c9-c6f2cbffa723" CreationDate="2017-02-17T03:37:37.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="7d7366ab-1a71-4bc4-b67d-60deaa5a68b5" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:14:00.330" UserId="1410" Text="An old [software question of mine][1] looks like it would benefit from some hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests  - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;-	Netduino, plus RS232 shield &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="7d7366ab-1a71-4bc4-b67d-60deaa5a68b5" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:14:00.330" UserId="1410" Text="Cmall, sheap processor with serial port and internet access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="7d7366ab-1a71-4bc4-b67d-60deaa5a68b5" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:14:00.330" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;uart&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20676" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6873" RevisionGUID="49186272-fbb5-4f35-84a8-ba94efd50e42" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:18:32.327" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20677" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6873" RevisionGUID="49186272-fbb5-4f35-84a8-ba94efd50e42" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:18:32.327" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6874" RevisionGUID="ea705970-2724-410c-a744-3d46dd452b50" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:18:32.327" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20679" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6874" RevisionGUID="ea705970-2724-410c-a744-3d46dd452b50" CreationDate="2017-02-17T09:18:32.327" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20681" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6875" RevisionGUID="be060b81-f9fb-4d5d-902e-a55d1bdbdce4" CreationDate="2017-02-17T10:21:01.593" UserId="5617" Text="I recommend the Corsair keyboard. Just the switch to mechanical is going to make a HUGE improvement to your typing experience. &#xA;&#xA;Personally I have a Corsair K90 that I picked up around a year and a half ago and it's been a dream, but I have been eyeing the K70 RGB since it came out. (The main difference is the lighting and I think fewer macro keys on the K70)&#xA;&#xA;The thing you will notice straight away is how much more responsive the keys actually are, not to mention it can handle more key presses at the same time. The Corsair software for setting up macros and configuring the lighting is also pretty decent. The wrist rest is also very comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;May I ask why you list the backlight glowing around the keys as an issue?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20685" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="252cf08a-6fd3-4c12-96c8-06e249318f81" CreationDate="2017-02-17T13:50:49.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20687" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6874" RevisionGUID="0d76d1f7-10ef-4067-81e5-a4d34042f67f" CreationDate="2017-02-17T16:13:02.210" UserId="1410" Comment="added 228 characters in body" Text="a Universal Asynchronous Receiver/Transmitter, is a computer hardware device for asynchronous serial communication in which the data format and transmission speeds are configurable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AKA &quot;serial port&quot;, also RS232, RS 485, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20688" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6874" RevisionGUID="0d76d1f7-10ef-4067-81e5-a4d34042f67f" CreationDate="2017-02-17T16:13:02.210" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20693" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="50e95199-7771-43e2-8d6c-f4e538a184ab" CreationDate="2017-02-17T18:20:07.163" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Small, sheap processor with serial port and internet access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20694" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="c1468016-0489-48cc-80a8-f63f9f66ab7a" CreationDate="2017-02-17T20:04:48.523" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Small, cheap processor with serial port and internet access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20696" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="c1b18e7f-9ed3-466b-82a3-640a7ce4b8b3" CreationDate="2017-02-17T20:13:35.453" UserId="5612" Comment="Added description of the screen size and resolution that I want the screens to have" Text="I am looking for an external monitor that is comparable to the Retina display on my late 2013 MacBook, can anyone suggest options or help as far as what specifications I should be looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a programmer and would like two 27&quot; 2560x1440 or one 34&quot; 3440x1440.&#xD;&#xA;The most important factor for me is that text appare very sharp. and that the screen coating doesn't make the screen look grainy or dull. &#xD;&#xA;I am not on budget (-:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20701" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="54ef27b0-eee3-4954-bebf-e05ed2fbfed0" CreationDate="2017-02-17T22:33:57.223" UserId="1410" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="An old [software question of mine][1] looks like it would benefit from some hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests  - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet (will also need a USB hub)&#xD;&#xA;-	Netduino, plus RS232 shield &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6855" RevisionGUID="885bbad4-be24-4cef-89bf-f899f362aa02" CreationDate="2017-02-17T23:54:40.860" UserId="3980" Comment="added 175 characters in body" Text="For questions regarding hardware supporting HD resolutions such as 720p/720i or 1080p/1080i. For example, hardware for: HD displays, HD resolution, HD input/output, HD gaming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20703" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6855" RevisionGUID="885bbad4-be24-4cef-89bf-f899f362aa02" CreationDate="2017-02-17T23:54:40.860" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 57, 3836 edit id of 572" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20704" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="32fa6b51-9f40-4dae-a9de-2f8b2689e3e7" CreationDate="2017-02-18T00:52:10.720" UserId="2159" Comment="deleted 1687 characters in body" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &lt;s&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - New supporting driver released on 2017-02-17 (following dependent Windows Updates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Work Arounds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/http://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20713" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="925d8e23-a429-4d82-8406-909b3bd1a5b2" CreationDate="2017-02-18T12:08:57.460" UserId="15" Comment="Adds link." Text="I'm looking for thinnest tracking device such as [TrackR sticker][1] to be able to tag multiple objects, then track them down using some smart app. For example for organizing or locating the lost items. So basically it should allow me to apply a unique name. Item ringer (ring activated by app) would be an advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using TrackR, but I had some [issues][2] when item ringer was activated by itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm curious if there are some alternatives to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thetrackr.com/sticker&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://iot.stackexchange.com/q/238/271" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20714" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6880" RevisionGUID="1b82da20-941a-4514-9caa-f3287e71227a" CreationDate="2017-02-18T15:18:26.153" UserId="5596" Text="Check this board Mini atmega328 around $1.5 on aliexpress &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;A wireless shield will cost you around 1.5$ also on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In 2017 That's the cheapest way, There is other option will came in future for sure like this sd-card + wilress + micro-controller in the same time but it's expensive $30&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Rzu7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dOxk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxQMt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20715" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6880" RevisionGUID="524228d8-e9d4-47ca-acfb-e62b2fdc2e74" CreationDate="2017-02-18T15:26:05.367" UserId="5596" Comment="deleted 223 characters in body" Text="Check this board &quot;atmega328&quot; with serial port around $2 / without serial port $1.5 on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wireless shield will cost you around 1.5$ also on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6881" RevisionGUID="812f7304-759d-41cb-8584-1b43f433d3a8" CreationDate="2017-02-18T18:41:50.873" UserId="61" Text="I use two [Samsung UE590D][1]s, and would recommend 4k for both programming and games. I run Visual Studio and a large array of steam games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use 30&quot; or 27&quot; /w a close desk setup. I do end up vooming from time to time, however even with voom I do save screen real-state (with all the other menus in Visual Studio).&#xD;&#xA;     - If you go with 32&quot; and plan on multiple screens make sure you have the desk restate to support it.&#xD;&#xA; - Use a beefy GPU, you look to have this covered with the gtx 1080.&#xD;&#xA;     - I am running a 980-ti and on heavy action sequences my frames-rates drop. I am thinking that G-Sync would help but a better GPU would help more.&#xD;&#xA; - Do not use windows scaling, things that are not 100% windows scale look smeared. Also if you are using multiple screens and one is not the same resolution it causes havoc when you move windows across the screens.&#xD;&#xA;     - Most programs (Chrome, Visual Studio, etc.) can scale on there own with Alt + scroll anyways, the apps do a better job scaling then windows does.&#xD;&#xA; - Use Display Port instead of HDMI, some screens support HDMI 2.0 spec (4k-60fps) however many do not.&#xD;&#xA; - Check for VESA support, if you want to customize you desk layout VESA allows many 3rd party stand options for you. This help if you want a multiple screen setup.&#xD;&#xA; - Demo the screen if you can first, try both TN and IPS panels.&#xD;&#xA;     - My screen is TN, IPS screens do look a lot better (for example blacks look darker), I would have liked to view the monitor first to test this out before I purchased mine.&#xD;&#xA; - Make sure your screen has a good ms response time, screens that take a long time to respond do not render action (games) well and case many to feel sick after long viewing hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may already know these things but they may be helpful if you did not. Good luck with your 4k plans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/monitors/uhd-ue590d/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20717" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6882" RevisionGUID="10d922da-2b89-4477-a721-6de4113e2d5c" CreationDate="2017-02-18T18:50:02.450" UserId="5622" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a network testing tool for work that doesn't break the bank. I use the cheap wire mappers for checking pairs on runs once terminated, but I want something with more features such as wire length, link testing, port blinking, and network testing (internet accessibility and the like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have to lug around my laptop with me (or my tiny WAP to use my phone) to test and verify actual connectivity, but having an all in one tool would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around $300 and I found Pockethernet which ticks all the boxes plus more for what I need that is in my price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other tools that have the same feature set? I am having troubles finding them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20718" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6882" RevisionGUID="10d922da-2b89-4477-a721-6de4113e2d5c" CreationDate="2017-02-18T18:50:02.450" UserId="5622" Text="Pockethernet or other network testing tool" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20719" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6882" RevisionGUID="10d922da-2b89-4477-a721-6de4113e2d5c" CreationDate="2017-02-18T18:50:02.450" UserId="5622" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6881" RevisionGUID="7ca8b7ea-7fad-42c7-8596-4848ea301b9f" CreationDate="2017-02-18T21:31:48.730" UserId="61" Comment="Typo fixes" Text="I use two [Samsung UE590D][1]s, and would recommend 4k for both programming and games. I run Visual Studio and a large array of steam games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use 30&quot; or 27&quot; /w a close desk setup. I do end up zooming from time to time, however even with zoom I do save screen real-state (with all the other menus in Visual Studio).&#xD;&#xA;     - If you go with 32&quot; and plan on multiple screens make sure you have the desk restate to support it.&#xD;&#xA; - Use a beefy GPU, you look to have this covered with the gtx 1080.&#xD;&#xA;     - I am running a 980-ti and on heavy action sequences my frames-rates drop. I am thinking that G-Sync would help but a better GPU would help more.&#xD;&#xA; - Do not use windows scaling, things that are not 100% windows scale look smeared. Also if you are using multiple screens and one is not the same resolution it causes havoc when you move windows across the screens.&#xD;&#xA;     - Most programs (Chrome, Visual Studio, etc.) can scale on there own with Alt + scroll anyways, the apps do a better job scaling then windows does.&#xD;&#xA; - Use Display Port instead of HDMI, some screens support HDMI 2.0 spec (4k-60fps) however many do not.&#xD;&#xA; - Check for VESA support, if you want to customize you desk layout VESA allows many 3rd party stand options for you. This help if you want a multiple screen setup.&#xD;&#xA; - Demo the screen if you can first, try both TN and IPS panels.&#xD;&#xA;     - My screen is TN, IPS screens do look a lot better (for example blacks look darker), I would have liked to view the monitor first to test this out before I purchased mine.&#xD;&#xA; - Make sure your screen has a good ms response time, screens that take a long time to respond do not render action (games) well and case many to feel sick after long viewing hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may already know these things but they may be helpful if you did not. Good luck with your 4k plans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/monitors/uhd-ue590d/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="e8742d63-a326-47fc-9879-0c21d09287f8" CreationDate="2017-02-18T23:52:45.023" UserId="1410" Comment="added 349 characters in body" Text="An old [software question of mine][1] looks like it would benefit from some hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests  - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet (will also need a USB hub)&#xD;&#xA;-	[Netduino][2], plus RS232 shield &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I am also considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Orange Pi][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Banana Pi][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Chip][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I am not sure how compatible they might be with Raspberry Pi peripherals &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.netduino.com/hardware/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepipc/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.banana-pi.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://getchip.com/pages/chip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="20740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6887" RevisionGUID="c8e9d4c0-3251-4aea-a6f7-f5b4f0deea0d" CreationDate="2017-02-20T00:25:50.523" UserId="5563" Text="I'm looking for a drive enclosure that can do RAID 0 and maybe RAID 5.  All of the brand names run together on me, I have idea what brand to consider.  As I understand, the fastest interface is USB 3.1 and I have some of those in my computer, so it seems that's the best choice.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20741" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6887" RevisionGUID="c8e9d4c0-3251-4aea-a6f7-f5b4f0deea0d" CreationDate="2017-02-20T00:25:50.523" UserId="5563" Text="Raid Enclosure Interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20742" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6887" RevisionGUID="c8e9d4c0-3251-4aea-a6f7-f5b4f0deea0d" CreationDate="2017-02-20T00:25:50.523" UserId="5563" Text="&lt;raid&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20745" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="6d346f64-abf1-4a94-83fb-ec0113ca7e48" CreationDate="2017-02-20T04:03:06.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20746" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="da9be591-4dfb-4012-8ae6-eae4f5bc2ba8" CreationDate="2017-02-20T06:03:46.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6888" RevisionGUID="c7f04095-956c-4e30-bb1b-d30b0a969ade" CreationDate="2017-02-20T07:48:38.093" UserId="3713" Text="I have bought Lenovo T460s in Sep 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7 6600U&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 256GB SSD (I have separately purchased a 512Gb Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME and swapped hard drives)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen: 2560 x 1440 (non touch)&#xD;&#xA; - Gfx: GeForce 930M (2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 7 Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Extras: Fingerprint Reader, built in mobile 4G internet, Smart card reader.&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: HDMI, 3xUSB 3.0 (with always on power), Ethernet, Mini Display, Headphone/Mic jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rational:&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop met all of my must have requirements and few of the optional ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comments about laptop:&#xD;&#xA;----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little bit plain looking but solid and light weight. Port placement is IMO questionable e.g. HDMI is on the right and power on the customary left.&#xD;&#xA;Screen is good but not suited for graphics designers. Fn and Ctrl key functions can be swapped in BIOS. Lenovo provides fairly good management software suite without extra crud." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6888" RevisionGUID="f476cd85-718d-4169-82c0-59ec962e280c" CreationDate="2017-02-20T07:56:22.263" UserId="3713" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I have bought Lenovo T460s in Sep 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7 6600U&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 256GB SSD (I have separately purchased a 512Gb Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME and swapped hard drives)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen: 2560 x 1440 (non touch)&#xD;&#xA; - Gfx: GeForce 930M (2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 7 Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Extras: Fingerprint Reader, built in mobile 4G internet, Smart card reader.&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: HDMI, 3xUSB 3.0 (with always on power), Ethernet, Mini Display, Headphone/Mic jack&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: 1.50 kg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rational:&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop met all of my must have requirements and few of the optional ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comments about laptop:&#xD;&#xA;----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little bit plain looking but solid and light weight. Port placement is IMO questionable e.g. HDMI is on the right and power on the customary left.&#xD;&#xA;Screen is good but not suited for graphics designers. Fn and Ctrl key functions can be swapped in BIOS. Lenovo provides fairly good management software suite without extra crud." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20749" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6888" RevisionGUID="e57731bc-ae01-4c6c-bf95-43ce4060be09" CreationDate="2017-02-20T08:03:21.790" UserId="3713" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I have bought Lenovo T460s in Sep 2016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7 6600U&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 256GB SSD (I have separately purchased a 512Gb Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME and swapped hard drives)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen: 2560 x 1440 (non touch)&#xD;&#xA; - Gfx: GeForce 930M (2GB)&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 7 Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Extras: Fingerprint Reader, built in mobile 4G internet, Smart card reader.&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: HDMI, 3xUSB 3.0 (with always on power), Ethernet, Mini Display, Headphone/Mic jack&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: 1.50 kg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rational:&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop met all of my must have requirements and few of the optional ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comments about laptop:&#xD;&#xA;----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little bit plain looking but solid and light weight. Port placement is IMO questionable e.g. HDMI is on the right and power on the customary left.&#xD;&#xA;Screen is good but not suited for graphics designers. Fn and Ctrl key functions can be swapped in BIOS. Lenovo provides fairly good management software suite without extra crud. Extensive theft mitigation security features built in - I have not configured them yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6889" RevisionGUID="21bf32bb-693f-4152-91bf-d629dc6ad9cc" CreationDate="2017-02-20T10:10:35.277" UserId="203" Text="Since this has been bumped to the front page, I'd like to add a current generation laptop for anyone *currently* looking for a laptop. I'm recommending the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Gigabyte AERO 14 ([Newest version, A$2699](http://www.austin.net.au/gigabyte-aero14w-1060-bk7-14-gaming-notebook.html))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it's weight is 1.89 kg, which is slightly above the OP requirements, it is significantly lighter than many other laptops with comparable hardware, for example, the [Alienware 13](http://www.dell.com/au/p/alienware-13-laptop/pd?oc=z5193a4au&amp;model_id=alienware-13-laptop), which weighs 2.6 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display is a QHD IPS panel, though it's somewhat dim, measured at less than 300 cd/m^2 by [this review](http://translate.google.com/translate?tl=EN&amp;sl=DE&amp;hl=EN&amp;js=y&amp;prev=hp&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Findex.php%2Fartikel%2Fhardware%2Fnotebooks%2F41263-kompakter-alleskoenner-mit-viel-ausdauer-das-gigabyte-aero-14-im-test.html), because it's a matte (non-reflective) panel, it should be usable outdoors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU is the **i7 7700HQ (2.2 GHz, 2.8 Turbo)**, the newest generation high performance quad core. While not top of the line, the only faster CPUs are the same, with only a few hundred MHz extra clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base model also comes with **16 GB DDR4 2400**, a **512 GB M.2 SSD** and the **GTX 1060 GPU (1280 CUDA cores, 6 GB VRAM)**, which is a desktop class GPU: Even at maximum detail settings and native resolution, it should be able to maintain more than 30 FPS for today's AAA games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there is **no Ethernet** port, so the laptop relies on 802.11 ac WiFi, though you could use a USB to LAN adaptor. There are **three USB 3.0 (Type A) and one USB 3.1 (type C)** ports, as well as HDMI 2.0, mini-DP, Headphone-out jack and a SD card reader. I don't believe it comes with an optical drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The grey version linked looks fairly standard and minimalist, and while it is preinstalled with Windows 10, Windows 7 should be supported" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20751" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="6c93c260-0833-49e3-a054-7fc9343d7b53" CreationDate="2017-02-20T11:27:25.900" UserId="5640" Text="I've been looking for wireless earbuds, just like the Apple model. Personally, I don't like the ones that you introduce in the ear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And not like all the other **in-ear** that fill the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4jAr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HiLBo.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20752" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="6c93c260-0833-49e3-a054-7fc9343d7b53" CreationDate="2017-02-20T11:27:25.900" UserId="5640" Text="Are there any wireless earpones (no in-ear)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20753" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="6c93c260-0833-49e3-a054-7fc9343d7b53" CreationDate="2017-02-20T11:27:25.900" UserId="5640" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20761" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6887" RevisionGUID="73b061a4-d421-4541-b1a1-2f609fee5176" CreationDate="2017-02-20T14:58:42.273" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="20762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="8534b0b1-710c-43d1-b5ec-5ec48da00ad2" CreationDate="2017-02-20T17:33:53.247" UserId="5640" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for wireless earbuds, just like the Apple model. Personally, I don't like the ones that you introduce in the ear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And  **not in-ear**  that fill the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: budget around 50€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4jAr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HiLBo.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6894" RevisionGUID="0e614a2d-28d8-412c-a956-d5033cbca992" CreationDate="2017-02-20T21:39:42.890" UserId="5645" Text="I want to buy an audio player that satisfies these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. MicroSD slot which can read 64GB card or has device memory of at least this size&#xD;&#xA; 2. Hardware buttons which I can use without unlocking the display&#xD;&#xA; 3. No lags when navigating between songs&#xD;&#xA; 4. At least average audio quality&#xD;&#xA; 5. FLAC support&#xD;&#xA; 6. Price limit: 250$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend me any device which meets these conditions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20765" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6894" RevisionGUID="0e614a2d-28d8-412c-a956-d5033cbca992" CreationDate="2017-02-20T21:39:42.890" UserId="5645" Text="Portable audio player" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20766" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6894" RevisionGUID="0e614a2d-28d8-412c-a956-d5033cbca992" CreationDate="2017-02-20T21:39:42.890" UserId="5645" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="d78ae1a9-6dbe-434f-9991-4d0600bafc20" CreationDate="2017-02-20T23:24:03.350" UserId="5596" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50-$100 depends on internal memory anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHsB8.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="317daad4-e146-4a95-9870-6a23d56f7194" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:23:06.733" UserId="5596" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50-$100 depends on internal memory anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHsB8.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20769" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="e4cd91c9-c922-4764-acae-3e69382ceb03" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:24:27.687" UserId="4523" Comment="Edited question title to be more on point" Text="Looking for wireless earbuds that do not stick into the ear canal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20770" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="e4cd91c9-c922-4764-acae-3e69382ceb03" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:24:27.687" UserId="4523" Comment="Edited question title to be more on point" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20771" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6890" RevisionGUID="e4cd91c9-c922-4764-acae-3e69382ceb03" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:24:27.687" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 57, 5640 edit id of 578" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20772" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="dba76441-7f06-457b-bcd9-44b300a2e823" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:28:38.560" UserId="5596" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50 for 4gb and $100 for 8gb anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHsB8.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20773" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6830" RevisionGUID="14bd5431-2b70-4ec1-ade1-71bce0638c79" CreationDate="2017-02-21T01:36:12.960" UserId="5445" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="I tend to carelessly yank my iPhone and iPad off of their charging cables, which leads to either the metal connector tip coming off or causes the cable to fray.  As a result, I go through iPhone cables like I go through socks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, are there any (nearly) unbreakable iPhone cables that stand up to such wear and tear?  I've tried numerous brands of nylon-braided cables.  They tend to solve the &quot;cables fraying&quot; issue, but the metal connector tips keep coming off.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only cable I've come across that claims to protect the connector is the [&quot;Snakable&quot;](https://www.snakable.com/) cable, but it's only 4 feet long.  I want a cable that's 6 feet or longer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20774" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6276" RevisionGUID="74cef60b-c95a-40db-b4f1-b665143a3cca" CreationDate="2017-02-21T01:41:16.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20775" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6708" RevisionGUID="8b1ad635-a89f-457e-ab3f-e0398763f335" CreationDate="2017-02-21T01:43:17.953" UserId="5445" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="There are three main ways to deliver 3D:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Anagylph, the type of 3D involving the old red-blue glasses&#xD;&#xA;- Passive 3D, the type of 3D you see in movie theaters nowadays, involving circularly polarized light&#xD;&#xA;- Active 3D, the type of 3D found in most 3D glasses, involving active-shutter glasses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you can view Anaglyph 3D on essentially any TV. And there are even products like [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005SN3INA) which takes 3D content designed for Passive or Active 3D and converts them to Anaglyph so they can be viewed on non-3D TV's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any products that allow you to view either active or passive 3D on a non-3D TV? It seems there was such a product called [3DNOW](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009E7WDLO) in 2012, but it appears to have been discontinued. Are there any similar products currently on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 4K TV, so resolution shouldn't be a problem.  And it has a high frame rate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20776" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="9d24468b-50bb-4ff7-8471-67ebfb3fe026" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:32:37.423" UserId="5596" Comment="added 207 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50 for 4gb and $100 for 8gb anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** The maximum Memory size MicroSD card is 16GB according to [this article][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://forums.sandisk.com/t5/Sansa-Clip-Sansa-Clip/Sansa-Clip-SD-Card-issues/m-p/287334/highlight/true#M42771&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHsB8.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="dee2f96f-200f-44f6-a6b0-fa4710e3425f" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:35:30.220" UserId="5445" Text="If I were to buy a computer for the sole purpose of backing up and syncing my iPhone, what would be my cheapest possible option?  The only requirements are that it needs at least 32GB worth of free space (plus a little more), it needs to be capable of connecting to the Internet, and it needs to be capable of running iTunes (and that too a version of iTunes recent enough to support the iPhone 7).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the cheapest possible computers are Chromebooks, i.e. computers that run Chrome OS, but iTunes doesn't support Chrome OS.  The other option is getting an Intel Compute Stick, which is like 100 or 200 dollars, and then inserting an SD card to expand its storage space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm aware I could just back my phone to iCloud, but there are two problems with that.  First, you have to pay if you want more than 5GB worth of storage.  And second, in iCloud you can't do certain things you can do in iTunes, like like putting an app in your &quot;purchased apps&quot; list so that your phone can get the last compatible version of the app." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="dee2f96f-200f-44f6-a6b0-fa4710e3425f" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:35:30.220" UserId="5445" Text="Cheapest possible computer capable of backing up an IPhone 7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="dee2f96f-200f-44f6-a6b0-fa4710e3425f" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:35:30.220" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="bac7d195-95a1-4cb4-ab5e-24b23c4fa8bd" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:42:26.037" UserId="5596" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50 for 4gb and $100 for 8gb anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** The maximum Memory size MicroSD card is 16GB according to [this article][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Fuze and all SanDisk's players (Fuze+ included) will work well&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with cards up to 32GB. You can hack the newer 64GB cards (which are a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; new format, SDXC or exFAT) by re-formatting to FAT32 and use them too,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; but it isn't officially sanctioned by SanDisk (or any manufacturer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Resource link][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://forums.sandisk.com/t5/Sansa-Clip-Sansa-Clip/Sansa-Clip-SD-Card-issues/m-p/287334/highlight/true#M42771&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forums.sandisk.com/t5/Sansa-Clip-Zip/SD-card-for-Clip-Zip/td-p/302739&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHsB8.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20781" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="9df54d66-57ed-4604-9532-13bdab829f04" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:50:14.340" UserId="5596" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50 for 4gb and $100 for 8gb anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** The maximum Memory size MicroSD card is 16GB according to [this article][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Or Sandisk Fuze**&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Fuze and all SanDisk's players (Fuze+ included) will work well&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with cards up to 32GB. You can hack the newer 64GB cards (which are a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; new format, SDXC or exFAT) by re-formatting to FAT32 and use them too,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; but it isn't officially sanctioned by SanDisk (or any manufacturer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Resource link][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wk3u.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuYMg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://forums.sandisk.com/t5/Sansa-Clip-Zip/SD-card-for-Clip-Zip/td-p/302739" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6895" RevisionGUID="d2af5108-2be4-4ae8-bc18-71fd42237b6d" CreationDate="2017-02-21T02:56:32.140" UserId="5596" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="**SanDisk Sansa Clip+**&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - $50 for 4gb and $100 for 8gb anyway both have SDcard slot.&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD card slot.&#xD;&#xA; - Robust file support.&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio and recording.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable battery lasts up to 15 hours.&#xD;&#xA; - MP3, WMA, Secure WMA, FLAC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried it before the sound quality really good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** The maximum Memory size MicroSD card is 16GB according to [this article][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Or Sandisk Fuze**&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The Fuze and all SanDisk's players (Fuze+ included) will work well&#xD;&#xA;&gt; with cards up to 32GB. You can hack the newer 64GB cards (which are a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; new format, SDXC or exFAT) by re-formatting to FAT32 and use them too,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; but it isn't officially sanctioned by SanDisk (or any manufacturer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Resource link][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can change the firmware [from here][4] to unlock the number of files + to run 64GB external SDcard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wk3u.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuYMg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://forums.sandisk.com/t5/Sansa-Clip-Zip/SD-card-for-Clip-Zip/td-p/302739&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.rockbox.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6897" RevisionGUID="524d9eae-e59e-4fa1-82d4-cba8ef5c356c" CreationDate="2017-02-21T03:35:24.373" UserId="4523" Text="I would go with the following:  [FiiO X1 High Resolution Digital Lossless Media Player](https://www.amazon.com/X1-Resolution-Digital-Lossless-Player/dp/B00NS3MRKC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487647655&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=FLAC+128gb)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Professional quality Texas Instrument PCM5142 DAC and Intersil ISL28291 OP amp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bright and easy to read 2&quot; color LCD display. Custom user interface with color themes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Durable lightweight aluminum chassis, metallic buttons with concentric grooves, scroll wheel of textured rubber&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Internal 1700mAh battery for over 12 hours of use on a full charge. Charges through micro USB port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MicroSD slot that supports SDXC cards, currently up to 128GB, large enough to hold your entire music library &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not too bad @ 79.99 on Amazon with prime shipping available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The step up from that is the [X3-II](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VR5JHVK/ref=psdc_1264866011_t1_B00NS3MRKC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Native DSD Support&#xD;&#xA;All new digital audio architecture means the new X3 can now handle DSD decoding natively, giving listeners access to this highly regarded digital audio format. Of course, the X3 also supports all of the popular lossless formats in your music library, including WAV, FLAC, APE, WMA, ALAC, and AIFF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual Crystal Oscillators&#xD;&#xA;The X3 makes use of two crystal oscillators, one each for the 44.1kHz and 48kHz frequency multiples. This no-compromise design ensures the lowest jitter and highest precision for playback of music at all sample rates, eliminating all conversion artifacts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Audiophile-Grade Architecture&#xD;&#xA;Utilizing the Cirrus Logic CS4398 DAC coupled with our painstakingly tuned low-pass filter, the X3 realizes extremely low noise and phase distortion. The X3's analog circuitry utilizes premium tantalum capacitors with minimal internal resistance for the best uncolored sound signature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, takes up to an 128gb MicroSD card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@ 169.99 prime available, but only 3 available currently (as of this posting)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20788" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6898" RevisionGUID="2b776767-1976-494b-8334-426a25420e44" CreationDate="2017-02-21T05:07:08.113" UserId="1329" Text="I got the N22 chromebook rather cheap with 32 GB and by the way some versions of this model are sold with [Windows and 64 GB](https://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-n22-80s6-11-6-celeron-n3050-4-gb-ram-64-gb-ssd/) but I don't know how patient you are waiting for a Celeron processor and eMMC or slow SD cards to finish the job. In theory, if you are very patient you can install Linux next to Chrome OS (not chroot) to install VintualBox to host a Windows VM which runs iTunes and backs up to SD card. I ran a Windows VM on my new Asus Flip C302, but the Celerons are also VT-x [capable](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/87257/Intel-Celeron-Processor-N3050-2M-Cache-up-to-2_16-GHz) but 4 GB RAM would be required for such a setup I guess. So if you can, better get a version which already runs Windows and get a fast and reliable SD card. I have never used iTunes on Windows and never backed up/owned an iPhone, so I have no experience with that, I expect Windows behaves the way I know it does." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6894" RevisionGUID="86cd768a-7d56-4d35-b82b-c832b5562d5d" CreationDate="2017-02-21T08:18:41.357" UserId="5645" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an audio player that satisfies these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. MicroSD slot which can read 64GB card or has device memory of at least this size&#xD;&#xA; 2. Hardware buttons which I can use without unlocking the display&#xD;&#xA; 3. No lags when navigating between songs&#xD;&#xA; 4. At least average audio quality&#xD;&#xA; 5. FLAC support&#xD;&#xA; 6. Price limit: 250$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend me any device which meets these conditions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I don't want to hack anything - replacing firmware etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6901" RevisionGUID="f5797653-333d-49b2-abfa-a316de7ba7d9" CreationDate="2017-02-21T11:10:13.453" UserId="5649" Text="First of all I want to clarify answer of your question, i check online features like this removable battery, SD Card slot, USB OTG, USB HOST and bugdet $100 to $150,i think this phone will fulfill your needs, see specs http://www.pdevice.com/product/ulefone-be-touch-2-specs, this phone has some great features like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Octa Core processor&#xD;&#xA; 2. 64 bit mediaTek MT6752 Processor &#xD;&#xA; 3. 4G Supported&#xD;&#xA; 4. 3 Color option Metal Grey, Silk White&#xD;&#xA; 5. Corning Gorilla Glass for better protection&#xD;&#xA; 6. Average performance back 13 Megapixel Camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even If you want to search more [smartphone specification][1] you can search manually one by one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pdevice.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20799" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="98f6a697-279c-40f7-9bb8-0195e00e48bf" CreationDate="2017-02-21T14:49:25.770" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20800" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6902" RevisionGUID="f494050d-ef7a-4176-8aca-07c308a38467" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:45:32.317" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1181222/which-vinyl-plastic-label-printers-work-well-with-cups-server-on-ubuntu" />
  <row Id="20801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6902" RevisionGUID="23b7e3b5-353a-4942-8207-d76d04225c42" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:42:30.713" UserDisplayName="konung" Text="I tried to get LabelWriter 450 DUO (it has both label and tape printer - hence duo), but while everything prints well to the label portion of the printer, I can't get Cups to print to the Tape portion of the printer ( it just keeps sending everything to the Label portion) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways can somebody recommend a good label printer, that will print labels on vinyl tape or polyethylene ( I need it to be chemical / oil proof) - paper labels won't work. And it needs to be able to run of Cups 2.1 or Cups 1.7.5 server running on Ubuntu or Debian. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you and much appreciated. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20802" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6902" RevisionGUID="23b7e3b5-353a-4942-8207-d76d04225c42" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:42:30.713" UserDisplayName="konung" Text="Which vinyl / plastic label printers work well with Cups Server (on Ubuntu)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20803" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6902" RevisionGUID="23b7e3b5-353a-4942-8207-d76d04225c42" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:42:30.713" UserDisplayName="konung" Text="&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20806" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="9e717deb-ad20-45a2-810c-83ab2597e68e" CreationDate="2017-02-21T19:59:47.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6881" RevisionGUID="13b1627a-d206-4d4a-baba-ff8674a4022a" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:45:46.267" UserId="61" Comment="grammer" Text="I use two [Samsung UE590D][1]s, and would recommend 4k for both programming and games. I run Visual Studio and a large array of steam games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use 30&quot; or 27&quot; /w a close desk setup. I do end up zooming from time to time, however even with zoom I do save screen real-state (with all the other menus in Visual Studio).&#xD;&#xA;     - If you go with 32&quot; and plan on multiple screens make sure you have the desk restate to support it.&#xD;&#xA; - Use a beefy GPU, you look to have this covered with the gtx 1080.&#xD;&#xA;     - I am running a 980-ti and on heavy action sequences my frame-rate drops. I am thinking that G-Sync would help but a better GPU would help more.&#xD;&#xA; - Do not use windows scaling, things that are not 100% windows scale look smeared. Also if you are using multiple screens and one is not the same resolution it causes havoc when you move windows across the screens.&#xD;&#xA;     - Most programs (Chrome, Visual Studio, etc.) can scale on there own with Alt + scroll anyways, the apps do a better job scaling then windows does.&#xD;&#xA; - Use Display Port instead of HDMI, some screens support HDMI 2.0 spec (4k-60fps) however many do not.&#xD;&#xA; - Check for VESA support, if you want to customize you desk layout VESA allows many 3rd party stand options for you. This help if you want a multiple screen setup.&#xD;&#xA; - Demo the screen if you can first, try both TN and IPS panels.&#xD;&#xA;     - My screen is TN, IPS screens do look a lot better (for example blacks look darker), I would have liked to view the monitor first to test this out before I purchased mine.&#xD;&#xA; - Make sure your screen has a good ms response time, screens that take a long time to respond do not render action (games) well and case many to feel sick after long viewing hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may already know these things but they may be helpful if you did not. Good luck with your 4k plans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/monitors/uhd-ue590d/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20808" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="c92b13f2-c63a-4b09-8970-80961d26536b" CreationDate="2017-02-21T23:08:49.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20810" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="34053769-d0a7-4a28-9c00-cd411c437bd6" CreationDate="2017-02-22T02:13:26.273" UserId="5636" Text="&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;I'm planning to purchase a 15-inch MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID soon and have been looking into Thunderbolt 3–based port-expansion solutions for it but have not been able to find anything quite to my liking.  I have looked at several different product pages for and comparative reviews of such devices or their Thunderbolt 2–based predecessors, including&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but most definitely not limited to:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sonnet Echo 15+&#xD;&#xA;* [Thunderbolt 3/USB-C Adapters, Cables, and Hubs for New MacBook Pro (MacRumors)](https://www.macrumors.com/2016/11/01/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-adapters-hubs-2016-mbp/)&#xD;&#xA;* [The Best Thunderbolt Dock | The Wirecutter](http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-thunderbolt-dock/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that the best solution so far actually seems like it might end up being the Sonnet Echo 15+, but I'm not entirely satisfied with this lead.  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;For one, I've seen reviews of the device on Amazon that criticize the device's manufacturer as being at least somewhat unresponsive to customer-support requests.  For another, I don't really know if I'm going to need those internal drive bays, though I'll probably regret not having an external disc drive&amp;thinsp;—&amp;thinsp;_yes_, I'm among those who still like optical media.  In addition, I could use passthrough ports for Thunderbolt _2_ as _well_ as for Thunderbolt 3 to hook up to a multi-port display adapter my dad owns (though an HDMI port on the port-expansion hub itself might render that pseudo-'requirement' partly moot, as I probably wouldn't have much use for said accessory's full-size DisplayPort and Mini-DVI ports.)  I might also find a FireWire _400_ port handy, too, as that would obviate the need for me to use a FireWire 400–to–FireWire 800 cable in situations that called for it.  Lastly, what I would _really_ like is if I could find something that could fit nice and snugly under the MacBook Pro just like the GameBoy Player attaches to the bottom of Nintendo's GameCube, and that would probably involve having a _slot_-loading drive in the hub.  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;**Bearing these requirements and preferences in mind, does anybody have any suggestions for where I could either find or custom-order something like what I'm describing?**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;I may try to expand on this list later, as this isn't everything I've looked through so far.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20811" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="34053769-d0a7-4a28-9c00-cd411c437bd6" CreationDate="2017-02-22T02:13:26.273" UserId="5636" Text="Expansive Thunderbolt 3 Port Expander Suitable for Use With a MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20812" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="34053769-d0a7-4a28-9c00-cd411c437bd6" CreationDate="2017-02-22T02:13:26.273" UserId="5636" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20813" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="88b40e36-6c42-4006-88a3-480640ca8b22" CreationDate="2017-02-22T02:25:55.847" UserId="5636" Comment="Clarified the purpose of this question by adding a word to its posting title.  " Text="Expansive Thunderbolt 3 Port Expander Suitable for Mobile Use With a MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6905" RevisionGUID="6cbea506-9302-468b-9333-76fc17f19618" CreationDate="2017-02-22T03:54:05.750" UserId="5653" Text="I'm looking for a tablet that is optimal for reading PDFs and making handwritten notes on them. I would like a large screen: some of the PDFs are in A4 format and they should be shown in something that is not too far from their natural size. And it should come with a pen that can be slid into the tablet itself. And writing with it should work very, very well!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Except for this, I don't need very strong specifications or special features. I would also like to watch movies on it, but I'm not very demanding w.r.t. the quality, so I think pretty much any tablet would satisfy my needs in that area.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheaply can this be done?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20815" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6905" RevisionGUID="6cbea506-9302-468b-9333-76fc17f19618" CreationDate="2017-02-22T03:54:05.750" UserId="5653" Text="Tablet for reading and writing notes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20816" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6905" RevisionGUID="6cbea506-9302-468b-9333-76fc17f19618" CreationDate="2017-02-22T03:54:05.750" UserId="5653" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20817" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="6906" RevisionGUID="2d8b4312-8e67-473a-8a1a-77e8c68a98bf" CreationDate="2017-02-22T06:16:23.367" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://superuser.com/questions/1181261/usb3-0-or-type-c-portable-monitors-with-macbook-pro-13-mid-2012" />
  <row Id="20818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6906" RevisionGUID="361c17bb-0d53-41e4-aaa7-006baecfb702" CreationDate="2017-02-21T17:35:25.097" UserId="5398" Text="I'm looking at getting a portable monitor for use with my MacBook Pro 13&quot; (Mid-2012, Core i7).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking probably an Asus model MB169C+ or B+ which leads me to my question. I know my MBP has USB3.0 and so the B+ should work fine. The MBP has a Thunderbolt port, though I'm not sure which generation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something I can use with mine - either directly (Through USB-C), or my available thunderbolt port. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;If I have the wrong generation of Thunderbolt I'd be fine with converting it to USB Type C?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20819" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6906" RevisionGUID="361c17bb-0d53-41e4-aaa7-006baecfb702" CreationDate="2017-02-21T17:35:25.097" UserId="5398" Text="USB3.0 or Type-C Portable Monitors with MacBook Pro 13&quot; (Mid-2012)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20820" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6906" RevisionGUID="361c17bb-0d53-41e4-aaa7-006baecfb702" CreationDate="2017-02-21T17:35:25.097" UserId="5398" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20829" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6906" RevisionGUID="6f54f858-a43d-477b-a8e8-cfd94f5d8709" CreationDate="2017-02-22T09:37:13.030" UserId="5398" Comment="added 185 characters in body; deleted 16 characters in body" Text="I'm looking at getting a portable monitor for use with my MacBook Pro 13&quot; (Mid-2012, Core i7).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking probably an Asus model MB169C+ or B+ at the moment. I know my MBP has USB3.0 and so the B+ should work fine. The MBP has a Thunderbolt port, which I believe is 1st Generation (10Gbps) - someone more familiar with Thunderbolt/mini-displayport might know if I'm wrong on this.&#xA;&#xA;Which leads me to my question:&#xA;&#xA;If I was to get the C+ model with USB type C, can first gen thunderbolt be converted and power the monitor correctly? Is there any reason not to just go with USB3.0?&#xA;&#xA;Budget doesn't matter as it is to be purchased from an approved supplier and these are the only options.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6909" RevisionGUID="ace95119-4eca-4a0a-962f-204e7c9d9371" CreationDate="2017-02-22T13:24:03.503" UserId="5655" Text="I'm a computer science student doing a lot of data science and would like to get a laptop that can supplement my desktop. I often want to run medium sized machine learning problem without having a very good internet connection available, as such I would like to get a solid laptop that runs Ubuntu well and has a pretty solid graphics card/processor (and ssd of course). Weight and battery are not really big concerns (my deceased laptop weights 4.8 kg and has a battery life of 30 minutes). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being able to play games would be a plus. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is about 1500 euro, max 2000. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20831" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6909" RevisionGUID="ace95119-4eca-4a0a-962f-204e7c9d9371" CreationDate="2017-02-22T13:24:03.503" UserId="5655" Text="Looking for a heavyweight linux/dual boot laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20832" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6909" RevisionGUID="ace95119-4eca-4a0a-962f-204e7c9d9371" CreationDate="2017-02-22T13:24:03.503" UserId="5655" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20833" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6910" RevisionGUID="7a0135e4-75cd-4d20-bdc5-93f365b61514" CreationDate="2017-02-22T14:34:26.997" UserId="4523" Text="I would suggest: [2017 MSI GS63VR Stealth Pro-229 15.6&quot;](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GS63VR-Stealth-Pro-230-i7-7700HQ/dp/B01N1WRY0Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487773730&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=GS63VR%2BSTEALTH%2BPRO-230&amp;th=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USD$1999.00 @ Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display: 15.6&quot; Full HD | Full HD eDP IPS-Level 1920x1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating System: Windows 10 PRO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel Core i7-7700HQ (2.8-3.8GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics Card: NVIDIA's GTX 1060 6G GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 32GB (16GB x2) DDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard Drive: 512GB SSD (PCIE Gen3x4) + 1TB (SATA) 5400rpm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Special features: VR READY | Slim and Light Design | Steel Series Full-Color Backlight Keyboard &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I know this is advertised as a gaming system.  Fact is, all a gaming system is, is a system loaded with high spec hardware.  What it ends up being depends on what you use it for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20834" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="883747ff-1192-4a10-bcf3-6f110c157568" CreationDate="2017-02-22T15:49:32.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20848" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="2019a99c-2320-4a9f-b5b4-fe6a442eb18a" CreationDate="2017-02-22T20:51:48.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20849" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4308" RevisionGUID="d88477e6-bb19-4c5c-bd1c-a2e85021cbc2" CreationDate="2017-02-22T21:51:48.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6914" RevisionGUID="f9291889-0dfd-4674-98f5-a31c6ab393f2" CreationDate="2017-02-22T23:58:49.173" UserId="5445" Text="Up until the late 90's, it was relatively common for people to put portable TV's in their cars.  These were handheld devices that allowed you to watch over-the-air (OTA) television signals for free, akin to pocket radios.  Now the technology in our lives has advanced dramatically in the past 20 years, but this is one respect where we seem to have gone backward; almost no one has a portable TV anymore.  Portable TV's do still exist though, for instance [this one](https://www.amazon.com/RCA-T227-Portable-Widescreen-Detachable/dp/B01GK9I4Q6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487807336&amp;sr=1-1) is available for $60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, what products are there to turn an iPhone into a portable TV?  So far the best thing I've found is [this digital antenna](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjJreGV86TSAhVFWn4KHeLwAlQYABAGGgJwYw&amp;ohost=www.google.com&amp;cid=CAASJORom2Np_KHfRojCoI4CQgYF7BZGvBd98TeUAgWKIu4RraIyiQ&amp;sig=AOD64_0H63XZdW4OJAJ6N2bQtbJYqXrgmg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjVp96V86TSAhWov1QKHaGeDgEQwg8IHA&amp;adurl=) for $40, which creates a private Wifi network that iPhones and other devices can connect to to watch OTA TV signals.  But it has no customer reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I want something cheap and small that plugs into the iPhone and does not need to be charged separately.  If it helps, I have an iPhone 7." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6914" RevisionGUID="f9291889-0dfd-4674-98f5-a31c6ab393f2" CreationDate="2017-02-22T23:58:49.173" UserId="5445" Text="A product to turn an iPhone into an OTA portable TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6914" RevisionGUID="f9291889-0dfd-4674-98f5-a31c6ab393f2" CreationDate="2017-02-22T23:58:49.173" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20857" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="369b22df-4ea4-4fa0-bca4-9a73d70e6f8e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T08:45:00.060" UserId="5665" Text="Am looking for an HDMI stick who is working on the 5 GHz WLAN network. Unfortunately when I looked in the specification sheet of some HDMI sticks I could not find  out whether the stick supports WLAN 5 GHz or not. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the asus vivostick, on their specification sheet they only write that the stick supports WLAN b/g/n/ac, but they did not write if the sticks supports WLAN 5 GHz: https://www.asus.com/us/Stick-PCs/VivoStick-PC-TS10/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the Intel Compute Stick, on the producers website, they only write, that stick provides WLAN b/g/n, but they did not mention if the sticks supports WLAN 5 GHz: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/compute-stick-product-brief.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, could anybody recommend me a HDMI stick with WLAN 5 GHz? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20858" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="369b22df-4ea4-4fa0-bca4-9a73d70e6f8e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T08:45:00.060" UserId="5665" Text="An HDMI stick who is working on the 5 GHz WLAN network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20859" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="369b22df-4ea4-4fa0-bca4-9a73d70e6f8e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T08:45:00.060" UserId="5665" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20860" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="342471e7-2685-4ea5-ba35-43938d36dded" CreationDate="2017-02-23T08:52:14.587" UserId="5665" Comment="edited title" Text="An HDMI stick that works on the 5 GHz WLAN network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20861" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="15819de3-9ec7-40f7-b0ad-c766938db0a6" CreationDate="2017-02-23T08:57:57.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6919" RevisionGUID="ea8b723b-b045-4f6f-9476-ee5d37669d4e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T15:04:14.830" UserId="4504" Text="My subdivision is tired of speeders on our street. I would like to setup a camera outside of my house to catch some of the repeat offenders, every house on the street has small children, and its a very unsafe situation. This is something I'm doing on my own and without pay.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I need a single camera, or maybe two cameras that can be hooked into a raspberry pi via USB. Just because I want to connect the camera using USB, I'm open to traditional CCTV cameras with the proper adapters, as long as it will work with motioneyeos.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;______&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Clear picture at 100m or 300ish feet.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Must be able to plug into raspberry pi&#xD;&#xA; 3. Outdoor rated&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;-----  &#xD;&#xA;Flexible requirements  &#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pan Tilt Zoom  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Able to record speed by any means.  &#xD;&#xA; 3. As cheap as possible, lets use &lt;100$ as a starting point.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;---  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;MotionEyeOS on raspberry pi.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;This little OS seems to fit the bill as far as controlling the camera and the footage it captures. I like the idea of having the software running on its own device that I can share over the internet instead of opening up my desktop. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20871" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6919" RevisionGUID="ea8b723b-b045-4f6f-9476-ee5d37669d4e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T15:04:14.830" UserId="4504" Text="Cheap CCTV/IP Camera to work with raspberry pi MotionEyeOS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20872" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6919" RevisionGUID="ea8b723b-b045-4f6f-9476-ee5d37669d4e" CreationDate="2017-02-23T15:04:14.830" UserId="4504" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20873" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6919" RevisionGUID="c42c24ea-0f39-4889-a0fe-b6c464a78003" CreationDate="2017-02-23T17:25:47.467" UserId="4504" Comment="Loosed up requirements, making question more on topic. " Text="My subdivision is tired of speeders on our street. I would like to setup a camera outside of my house to catch some of the repeat offenders, every house on the street has small children, and its a very unsafe situation. This is something I'm doing on my own and without pay.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I need a single camera, or maybe two cameras depending on the PTZ features, I would like for them to run on MotionEyeOS on raspberry pi, but doesn't have to. If a camera is ethernet or wifi enabled, and has all the software to be setup already installed on it, thats fine. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;______&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Clear picture at 100m or 300ish feet.&#xD;&#xA; 2. No additional hardware required, except a router and maybe a raspberry pi.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Outdoor rated&#xD;&#xA; 4. SOME Optical Zoom, have to be able to grab license plates after all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;-----  &#xD;&#xA;Flexible requirements  &#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pan Tilt Zoom  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Able to record speed by any means.  &#xD;&#xA; 3. As cheap as possible, lets use &lt;100$ as a starting point.   &#xD;&#xA; 4. Cloud uploads (Dropbox, amazon cloud) features would REALLY be nice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I was initially planing on using my raspberry pi 3, running motioneyeOS so I could live stream the video... However, if a camera is IP via Ethernet or wifi, and doesn't require another device hooked into it, that works for me. What I want to avoid is having the camera connected to a computer (other than the pi) or a traditional DVR.   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20874" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6919" RevisionGUID="c42c24ea-0f39-4889-a0fe-b6c464a78003" CreationDate="2017-02-23T17:25:47.467" UserId="4504" Comment="Loosed up requirements, making question more on topic. " Text="Cheap CCTV/IP Camera to work with raspberry pi MotionEyeOS Or own its own software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20875" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="37c9e520-137f-476f-8c09-fdcb1bc17f9c" CreationDate="2017-02-23T20:28:45.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20876" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="50099122-b3dd-430c-9e82-819ab1cacc80" CreationDate="2017-02-23T21:35:06.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6920" RevisionGUID="261cece4-0fbf-45ad-a44a-941c16b3af46" CreationDate="2017-02-23T22:47:47.743" UserId="1410" Text="Consider a chemical factory. Certain rooms may never be empty (control room, security, etc), some have a limit on how many people may be there at any give time, and some contain hazardous materials and no one may stay in there longer than a certain time. Beyond that, in case of  evacuation it is necessary to know where everyone is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking of wearable badges, probably with WIFi (*) and readers at every door, to scan those entering &amp; exiting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could make something cheap and small with a $5 Raspberry Pi Zero   and a $2 USB WiFI dongle.. or, maybe BlueTooth, but what about a battery?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, passive RFID wouldn’t require a battery, but could I be certain of reading everyone who passes through a doorway (and what about a very wide door, such as might be found in a factory)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Really, all that I need is a way to identify people as they pass through doorways flanks by readers. Computing power is not required, but since the Raspberry Pi Zero is so dirt cheap, I might be able to find some other uses (attach a mic &amp; speaker? Any other ideas?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I do need a battery, then given an 8 hour working day, plus breaks, plus a margin, then I need 10 or 12 hours battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of an of the shelf solution? Failing that, some thing easy to put together from off the shelf parts?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6920" RevisionGUID="261cece4-0fbf-45ad-a44a-941c16b3af46" CreationDate="2017-02-23T22:47:47.743" UserId="1410" Text="Seeking wearable with WiFi and 12 hour battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6920" RevisionGUID="261cece4-0fbf-45ad-a44a-941c16b3af46" CreationDate="2017-02-23T22:47:47.743" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20883" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="a1f406bc-d37b-4004-8ad2-101aa156937e" CreationDate="2017-02-24T07:47:15.213" UserId="1410" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="An old [software question of mine][1] looks like it would benefit from some hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests  - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I also need a dozen or two GPIO pins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet (will also need a USB hub)&#xD;&#xA;-	[Netduino][2], plus RS232 shield &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I am also considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Orange Pi][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Banana Pi][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Chip][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I am not sure how compatible they might be with Raspberry Pi peripherals &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.netduino.com/hardware/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepipc/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.banana-pi.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://getchip.com/pages/chip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20884" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6920" RevisionGUID="ace2c903-b140-4b99-b687-5c8d3fa7724a" CreationDate="2017-02-24T08:45:41.520" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Tracking employee location" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6880" RevisionGUID="888d21a8-cfb6-4eb1-9e2d-aef6b3429f20" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:28:12.293" UserId="5596" Comment="added 4816 characters in body" Text="Check [this board &quot;atmega328&quot;][1] with serial port around $2 / [without serial port $1.5][2] on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wireless shield will cost you around [1.5$ also on aliexpress][4]&#xD;&#xA;Or this little guy ESP8266 the [newer one for $1.70][5]&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a project about ESP8266][6] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-5PCS-Funduino-Nano-3-0-controller-compatible-with-0rduino-nano/32382480158.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.46.iu4CRw&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10111_10120normal#cfs,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=d9ada347-2091-4bfb-ab95-4ac4b591ade3&amp;algo_expid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2-8&amp;algo_pvid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-Pro-Mini-Module-Atmega328-5V-16M-with-Arduino-Compatible-With-Nano/32672852945.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.83.4OPxoS&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=edf0d175-d010-42aa-bb66-1c9197986684&amp;algo_expid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e-12&amp;algo_pvid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgraded-version-ESP-01-ESP8266-serial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver-1pcs/32648319845.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.214.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-26&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-ESP-12F-ESP-12E-upgrade-ESP8266-Remote-Serial-Port-WIFI-Wireless-Module/32714088769.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.20.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-2&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QZkCQSHnko&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6923" RevisionGUID="855abb18-29d6-4a2f-9984-f0400e24dc48" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:39:12.487" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6923" RevisionGUID="855abb18-29d6-4a2f-9984-f0400e24dc48" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:39:12.487" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20895" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6924" RevisionGUID="f17684dd-913c-4c89-a790-c18b51616bfe" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:39:12.487" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20896" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6924" RevisionGUID="f17684dd-913c-4c89-a790-c18b51616bfe" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:39:12.487" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6880" RevisionGUID="1125ce08-8034-4aca-929f-a78f5aa8dd7f" CreationDate="2017-02-24T20:19:16.783" UserId="5596" Comment="added 1222 characters in body" Text="Check [this board &quot;atmega328&quot;][1] with serial port around $2 / [without serial port $1.5][2] on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wireless shield will cost you around [1.5$ also on aliexpress][4]&#xD;&#xA;Or this little guy ESP8266 the [newer one for $1.70][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a project about ESP8266][7] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;RFID reader around $1.70, 8 PINS VCC GND and the others for DATA [from here][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-5PCS-Funduino-Nano-3-0-controller-compatible-with-0rduino-nano/32382480158.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.46.iu4CRw&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10111_10120normal#cfs,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=d9ada347-2091-4bfb-ab95-4ac4b591ade3&amp;algo_expid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2-8&amp;algo_pvid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-Pro-Mini-Module-Atmega328-5V-16M-with-Arduino-Compatible-With-Nano/32672852945.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.83.4OPxoS&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=edf0d175-d010-42aa-bb66-1c9197986684&amp;algo_expid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e-12&amp;algo_pvid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgraded-version-ESP-01-ESP8266-serial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver-1pcs/32648319845.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.214.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-26&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-ESP-12F-ESP-12E-upgrade-ESP8266-Remote-Serial-Port-WIFI-Wireless-Module/32714088769.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.20.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-2&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RC522-Card-Read-Antenna-RFID-Reader-IC-Card-Proximity-Module/2038558596.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.201.0x1iUw&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=03e593a5-bbc7-4305-b497-82eb521271aa&amp;algo_expid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45-22&amp;algo_pvid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QZkCQSHnko&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6880" RevisionGUID="5107c3cc-b5c9-4fd0-910c-d5baedbf2598" CreationDate="2017-02-24T20:27:49.217" UserId="5596" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="Check [this board &quot;atmega328&quot;][1] with serial port around $2 / [without serial port $1.5][2] on aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wireless shield will cost you around [1.5$ also on aliexpress][4]&#xD;&#xA;Or this little guy ESP8266 the [newer one for $1.70][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a project about ESP8266][7] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;RFID reader around $1.70, 6 DATA PINS and 2 for VCC, GND [from here][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-5PCS-Funduino-Nano-3-0-controller-compatible-with-0rduino-nano/32382480158.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.46.iu4CRw&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10111_10120normal#cfs,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=d9ada347-2091-4bfb-ab95-4ac4b591ade3&amp;algo_expid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2-8&amp;algo_pvid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-Pro-Mini-Module-Atmega328-5V-16M-with-Arduino-Compatible-With-Nano/32672852945.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.83.4OPxoS&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=edf0d175-d010-42aa-bb66-1c9197986684&amp;algo_expid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e-12&amp;algo_pvid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgraded-version-ESP-01-ESP8266-serial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver-1pcs/32648319845.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.214.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-26&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-ESP-12F-ESP-12E-upgrade-ESP8266-Remote-Serial-Port-WIFI-Wireless-Module/32714088769.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.20.JaQgzv&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&amp;algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-2&amp;algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RC522-Card-Read-Antenna-RFID-Reader-IC-Card-Proximity-Module/2038558596.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.201.0x1iUw&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=03e593a5-bbc7-4305-b497-82eb521271aa&amp;algo_expid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45-22&amp;algo_pvid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QZkCQSHnko&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="32fb8b24-4592-4b35-bfb2-7993a46f4244" CreationDate="2017-02-24T21:41:46.257" UserId="5445" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Magic Leap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="43d33b63-7b90-4d82-a63e-87a476f1c562" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:14:44.627" UserId="5672" Text="I have been searching for a low power way to serve a configuration page over WiFi. I have a concept working on a WR703n router, serving a configuration page for an arduino project. The whole thing, however consumes about 150mA just sitting there idle. The goal is to run this off a lead battery and solar panel setup so I'm trying to bring down the power consumption as much as possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best idea, I have is to use an ESP8266 module for the server part but that would probably shave off 30mA at most. There won't be an AP in range so I could use sleep modes on the ESP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So can anyone suggest a WiFi server, that uses less power, than the ESP module in AP mode?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your thoughts,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kaspar" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20902" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="43d33b63-7b90-4d82-a63e-87a476f1c562" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:14:44.627" UserId="5672" Text="Super low power WiFi server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20903" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="43d33b63-7b90-4d82-a63e-87a476f1c562" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:14:44.627" UserId="5672" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6926" RevisionGUID="01c42d7f-13dd-4a2e-95e3-92c49a47e579" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:16:29.207" UserId="4562" Text="I would like to build an extremely small, portable computer and need a screen 3.5 inches across or less that connects by either VGA, HDMI, or composite. I would also like it to be under 40 dollars, but I would take slightly more expensive. I am going to be connecting this to a Chip computer. I do not care too much about how good the display quality is. I just need to be able to see things on it and it to be functional." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20905" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6926" RevisionGUID="01c42d7f-13dd-4a2e-95e3-92c49a47e579" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:16:29.207" UserId="4562" Text="I need a extremely small display for a chip computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20906" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6926" RevisionGUID="01c42d7f-13dd-4a2e-95e3-92c49a47e579" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:16:29.207" UserId="4562" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6927" RevisionGUID="7ad3d714-ccc2-426f-ad06-7436400bcd23" CreationDate="2017-02-24T22:39:28.290" UserId="5672" Text="If I understand the 802.11 specs correctly, then the 802.11ac variant uses the 5GHz band exclusively, thus the ASUS device should be what you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at the table on Wikipedia. [IEEE 802.11 protocols](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11#Protocol)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6928" RevisionGUID="9a9d7234-7cfc-4b3c-b522-50a1a426e57d" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:10:32.480" UserId="5596" Text="HD and $40 I don't think so! but with PAL/NTFS around $20 [check this one][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI Port around $60 [check this link][3]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or [this one][5] 48$ with VGA-HDMI-PAL/NTFS Port&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or [this one for $24][7] HDMI Port, don't use Touch Pins, just connect it to power and HDMI port.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488026644&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=screen%203.5%20hdmi&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIsLG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-Monitor-Security-Camera-Tester/dp/B00EZM54R8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVb5r.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-LCD-4-3-Color-Monitor-IPS-HD-Screen-Display-VGA-BNC-AV-HDMI-Input-for-PC-CCTV-/262852424741?hash=item3d3339b425:g:y8UAAOSwCGVX2KHA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dpkT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5-inch-HDMI-LCD-TFT-Touchscreen-Display-1920-1080-for-Raspberry-pi-2-and-Pi/32774253132.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.174.WKwyJA&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=250d8bbf-ad0d-48a4-a414-e0eea2c5f33a&amp;algo_expid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc-20&amp;algo_pvid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v14u.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20910" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6928" RevisionGUID="8ac86f77-dae0-4676-bf54-7db4f2898982" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:15:38.923" UserId="5596" Comment="deleted 38 characters in body" Text="[Check this one for $24][7] HDMI Port, don't use Touch Pins, just connect it to power and HDMI port.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PAL/NTFS around $20 [check this one][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or [this one][5] 48$ with VGA-HDMI-PAL/NTFS Port&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488026644&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=screen%203.5%20hdmi&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIsLG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-Monitor-Security-Camera-Tester/dp/B00EZM54R8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVb5r.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-LCD-4-3-Color-Monitor-IPS-HD-Screen-Display-VGA-BNC-AV-HDMI-Input-for-PC-CCTV-/262852424741?hash=item3d3339b425:g:y8UAAOSwCGVX2KHA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dpkT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5-inch-HDMI-LCD-TFT-Touchscreen-Display-1920-1080-for-Raspberry-pi-2-and-Pi/32774253132.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.174.WKwyJA&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&amp;btsid=250d8bbf-ad0d-48a4-a414-e0eea2c5f33a&amp;algo_expid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc-20&amp;algo_pvid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v14u.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20911" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6929" RevisionGUID="6ec16505-2aeb-4b84-a617-dca4a016dd81" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:26:01.123" UserId="5596" Text="What about [this little guy Electric Imp WiFi SD Card Microcontroller][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.robotshop.com/en/electric-imp-wifi-sd-card-microcontroller.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiLm3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20912" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6929" RevisionGUID="fec0021b-6f4a-4c8c-8ce7-ff3dce2d749e" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:39:38.520" UserId="5596" Comment="added 284 characters in body" Text="For low power applications, Arduino boards are out. They are just not designed for it. There is ancillary circuitry that continues to draw more power than the microcontroller even when the MCU is sleeping. Anyway you can ask in Arduino section to make your Arduino use less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What about [this little guy Electric Imp WiFi SD Card Microcontroller][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.robotshop.com/en/electric-imp-wifi-sd-card-microcontroller.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiLm3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6929" RevisionGUID="d6b46852-a162-4140-9673-d5bc2206b769" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:45:49.917" UserId="5596" Comment="added 284 characters in body" Text="&gt; For low power applications, Arduino boards are out. They are just not&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for it. There is ancillary circuitry that continues to draw&#xD;&#xA;&gt; more power than the microcontroller even when the MCU is sleeping.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Anyway you can ask in Arduino section to make your Arduino use less&#xD;&#xA;&gt; power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example Arduino Uno use 42mA when running, while the deepest sleep mode, it still draws 31mA, There is other solution out there some micro-controller can run for a year on two AA battery, then check for the lowest WIFI shield.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTE:** Some libraries designed to make the device use less power check that too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What about [this little guy Electric Imp WiFi SD Card Microcontroller][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.robotshop.com/en/electric-imp-wifi-sd-card-microcontroller.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiLm3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6930" RevisionGUID="b6e2f02a-fcd5-4356-8b74-d07e386bc5e1" CreationDate="2017-02-25T14:22:41.373" UserId="5596" Text="hmm..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long range Passive RFID will cost you around $45 so forget about it..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cameras to follow employee! science fiction, we are not ready for it yet..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPS will not work perfectly inside buildings..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**But** there is a small idea for you and more simple!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I worked on AP devices from company called ubiquiti, These AP have the ability to work as a mesh network, there is an option to make a a Clint move around while the network choose the better WiFi AP for him and connect it directly..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used to follow my friends inside this network by calculating the distance between them and each AP. So acttully you will know their locations from their Mobiles like how GPS work..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Throw 3 AP inside a company, it will work as WIFI and tracker at the same time, with a small script you can make this thing work..&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQNEn.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20915" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6930" RevisionGUID="8c23b30f-8eb6-4aba-ba78-5509f09377e6" CreationDate="2017-02-25T14:29:51.617" UserId="5596" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="hmm..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long range Passive RFID will cost you around $45 so forget about it..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cameras to follow employee! science fiction, we are not ready for it yet..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPS will not work perfectly inside buildings..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**But** there is a small idea for you and more simple!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I worked on AP devices from company called ubiquiti, These AP have the ability to work as a mesh network, there is an option to make a a Clint move around while the network choose the better WiFi AP for him and connect it directly..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used to follow my friends inside this network by calculating the distance between them and each AP. So acttully you will know their locations from their Mobiles like how GPS work..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Throw 3 AP inside a company, it will work as WIFI and tracker at the same time, with a small script you can make this thing work..&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a company working on that idea anyway [check this link][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQNEn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.beacon-line.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQiA88TFBRDYrOPKuvfY2pIBEiQA97Z8MXcNqI2RkiCbSeZNv-Oe4jNSDghSYWNwdHUxrUpOsI4aAr0k8P8HAQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6926" RevisionGUID="aecc00c1-fd95-4881-9445-47769c54cd3c" CreationDate="2017-02-25T17:09:07.093" UserId="4562" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="I would like to build an extremely small, portable computer and need a screen 3.5 inches across or less that connects by either VGA, HDMI, or composite. I would also like it to be under 40 dollars, but I would take slightly more expensive. I am going to be connecting this to a Chip computer. I do not care too much about how good the display quality is. I just need to be able to see things on it and it to be functional. I have been looking everywhere for this, but the only ones I can find are for raspberry pie and do not have the right connection type." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20927" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6081" RevisionGUID="7afdc2d0-9a35-4d9e-8fd3-4142ff582999" CreationDate="2017-02-26T02:16:04.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20929" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4320" RevisionGUID="97b03279-b9e5-4941-992b-d615aac63b42" CreationDate="2017-02-26T06:19:50.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20942" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6924" RevisionGUID="77a8cfac-96c1-46f6-97b2-26cc5aa14cca" CreationDate="2017-02-26T22:12:29.257" UserId="1410" Comment="added 180 characters in body" Text="Radio-frequency identification (RFID) uses electromagnetic fields to automatically identify and track tags attached to objects. The tags contain electronically stored information. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20943" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6924" RevisionGUID="77a8cfac-96c1-46f6-97b2-26cc5aa14cca" CreationDate="2017-02-26T22:12:29.257" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 203, 1 edit id of 579" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20947" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6938" RevisionGUID="20447476-d468-44bf-b1ed-43252af24140" CreationDate="2017-02-27T01:13:44.410" UserId="5683" Text="I know a handheld might not be the perfect device for programming, but for me it would be useful for working on short periods of time, for example while traveling, so please don't make it a debate about if it's a good idea or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to what I've been looking, the device must fulfill the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboard: Full QWERTY (including symbols). It should be not bigger than 6&quot;, or be divided in two parts (like [this][1]) and should have the buttons sticking out for easy use.&#xD;&#xA;- Connectivity: Wifi would be ok, but mobile connection would be better yet.&#xD;&#xA;- Performance: Should be enough to explore modern internet websites.&#xD;&#xA;- Touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's just one that actually fulfills all characteristics, but is still just a project, and very expensive by the way: the [DragonBox Pyra][2], the unique problem (ignoring the price) is that it's MIPS based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other great option would have been the &#xD;&#xA;&quot;Pepper Pad&quot; but lacks in performance (and are not produced anymore), other one would have been the &quot;Sony VAIO UX&quot;, but people says the keyboard is difficult to use, so it lacks too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not posting links to all devices, I can't as I don't have reputation yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Pepperpad2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dragonbox.de/en/45-pyra" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20948" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6938" RevisionGUID="20447476-d468-44bf-b1ed-43252af24140" CreationDate="2017-02-27T01:13:44.410" UserId="5683" Text="Handheld device for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20949" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6938" RevisionGUID="20447476-d468-44bf-b1ed-43252af24140" CreationDate="2017-02-27T01:13:44.410" UserId="5683" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20950" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="65bd6704-b357-4f6d-81bf-fd3bc025f924" CreationDate="2017-02-27T01:34:55.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="20953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="97661fd4-9cd0-4f9e-997b-6f3199922f3a" CreationDate="2017-02-27T04:15:27.883" UserId="4476" Text="I'm looking for ideally one or a few containers that can store and reasonably protect hard drives sitting in the closet, and that would be easy to pick up and set in a car to transport if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have around 10-15 older 3.5&quot; internal hard drives and around five 2.5&quot; internal hard drives sitting around in the closet. Most of these are in hard drive boxes in which they or other drives were originally purchased or shipped--you know the kind of bulky plastic WD containers that needed to be cut open with scissors and would end up scratching your hand and arm as you fished inside to pull out the drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too worried about it being ruggedized or shock resistant, just something simple and inexpensive and better than cardboard boxes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20954" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="97661fd4-9cd0-4f9e-997b-6f3199922f3a" CreationDate="2017-02-27T04:15:27.883" UserId="4476" Text="Looking for a storage case for multiple hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20955" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="97661fd4-9cd0-4f9e-997b-6f3199922f3a" CreationDate="2017-02-27T04:15:27.883" UserId="4476" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6940" RevisionGUID="2a4bea1a-faa1-4a10-8f1c-812fc096ea3f" CreationDate="2017-02-27T07:29:36.020" UserId="4841" Text="I was going to suggest a phone with a good slide-out keyboard such as the Sony Experia Mini, but re-reading your question I noticed you are happy with larger devices possibly up to a tablet device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I have used the Sony VAIO UX and it is pretty cool, the keyboard isn't as bad as many phablets, it's buttons feel similar to the Xperia Mini - I have used both to quickly recompile builds and push them to the OUYA when I don't want to walk over to a computer. By-the-way VAIO UX was replaced by the VAIO P - here is [a pretty thorough review][1] to give you an idea of a portable-Windows device's speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; On the road I use a VAIO X - as it was the lightest computer on the market at the time, and it used the top-of-the-line netbook processor: Atom Z (2Ghz+Hyperthreading). It is larger, but has the bonus of 3G sim-card, and still travels well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I Triple-boot with Linux (ubuntu 14), Windows 7, Windows 10 and I can hardly say which is faster. They don't &quot;take seconds to respond to keyboard&quot;, but it certainly is slow. Powershell is OK (1 second response-time on keystrokes).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/30/13473970/sony-vaio-p-2016-review-tokyo-thrift" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="a3cd8b30-1fd0-41d4-92ce-69d1a0c0265c" CreationDate="2017-02-27T18:37:35.623" UserId="4523" Comment="Removed irrelevant information." Text="I'm looking for ideally one or a few containers that can store and reasonably protect hard drives sitting in the closet, and that would be easy to pick up and set in a car to transport if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have around 10-15 older 3.5&quot; internal hard drives and around five 2.5&quot; internal hard drives sitting around in the closet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too worried about it being ruggedized or shock resistant, just something simple and inexpensive and better than cardboard boxes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20968" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="a3cd8b30-1fd0-41d4-92ce-69d1a0c0265c" CreationDate="2017-02-27T18:37:35.623" Comment="Proposed by 4523 approved by 57, 4476 edit id of 580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="30b653c2-8f0c-42be-a7d0-f6aca6fc6326" CreationDate="2017-02-27T22:58:31.910" UserId="30" Text="I need active speakers. Preferably 2.0, but 2.1 would work, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speakers will sit on a table, right next to a CRT. They will primarily be used for older video game consoles (from SNES to Dreamcast). The players will sit circa 1-2 meters in front of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I would prefer a **cinch/RCA** input (red and white cables). If they don’t have one, I’d need a recommendation for a suitable adapter, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I would like to be able to connect **headphones**. If connected, the speakers should be muted automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Power plug for Germany.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: I’m hoping for less than 80 € (shipping to Germany).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If multiple sources can be connected via cinch (so no need to manually switch the cables when switching the console) and/or if newer consoles can be connected (optical?), I’d be willing to pay 120 €, or 150 € if they are really good (future-proof, ‎long lifetime)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="30b653c2-8f0c-42be-a7d0-f6aca6fc6326" CreationDate="2017-02-27T22:58:31.910" UserId="30" Text="Active 2.0 (or 2.1) speakers for (older) video game consoles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="30b653c2-8f0c-42be-a7d0-f6aca6fc6326" CreationDate="2017-02-27T22:58:31.910" UserId="30" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6946" RevisionGUID="c2d52b68-ea6d-4754-9f1a-e1348ebff474" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:23:29.413" UserId="4132" Text="I currently have a triple monitor setup with three 1080 23&quot; monitors. The side monitors have IPS panels and the center one has a TN panel. The monitors were purchased in 2011 for a budget price ($100-200 each). I have a good performing PC (Skylake i7, nVidia 1080 GTX, 32GB DDR4 RAM) and I play videogames of all genres (including first person shooters) &lt;10% of the time and spend the rest mostly with my word processor, IDE, web browser etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I spend a lot of time on my computer and I would like to not bottleneck the experience with an old budget monitor, I think it's worth it to upgrade my old center TN-panel monitor.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Since the side monitors are **23&quot;**, I'd like to not deviate too much from their size. *&#xD;&#xA;- Since there could be driver issues and inconsistencies for UI's across the monitors, I prefer **1080p** resolution over 4k or 1440p. *&#xD;&#xA;- As I have a nice machine to enjoy good gaming visuals, I would like to experience at least one noticeable differentiating feature from my old monitor: In particular a refresh rate of **&gt;100Hz**. Based on my research, I'm able to operate the center monitor at a greater refresh rate than the side monitors in Windows 10.  &#xD;&#xA;- With regard to strobing, the monitor should support **something similar to ULMB** for high frame rates. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\* If it's strongly suggested that I get rid off all three monitors for some good reason, I'm also willing to upgrade to a single, &quot;ultrawide&quot; monitor with a high resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferences**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Low reaction time, high contrast, good color accuracy and range +  (maybe automatically adjustable) brightness (doesn't have to be HDR)&#xD;&#xA;- Matte  &#xD;&#xA;- G-SYNC (or the successor) would be nice since I have a new nVidia card. However, I doubt that many games on my machine will drop into the low framerates where this feature can shine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Minor Preferences and Notes**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I prefer it to be around $300, but I'm willing to spend more if there is a great one out there.  &#xD;&#xA;- I'd also like to go with a reputable brand (e.g., ViewSonic, NEC, Philips) and a relatively new model.&#xD;&#xA;- Inbuilt speakers would be nice  &#xD;&#xA;- Thin bezel and depth, fully adjustable (pivot, tilt, swivel) are nice to have   &#xD;&#xA;- Eye care technology if it is not just marketing junk (have not looked into whether that is the case)  &#xD;&#xA;- Modern connectivity (DP/HDMI, maybe even USB-C)  &#xD;&#xA;- No strong preference for curved or flat, 3D, VESA wall-mounting abilities. &#xD;&#xA;- Not sure what panel (IPS, VA, TN) is the best for my needs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Example Candidates**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Samsung C24FG70][1]: My current favorite because VA and Quantum Dot technology seems like a great compromise for my demands. It's also a very new model ($325) &#xD;&#xA;- [ASUS VG248QE][2] or ASUS MG248Q: Not that new but seems popular and solid, uses TN I believe, no G-Sync ($280, $300)&#xD;&#xA;- [Acer Predator XB241H][3]: Has G-Sync, but uses a TN panel &amp; slightly pricier ($400)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/uk/monitors/curved-cfg70fqu/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VG248QE/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/SI/content/model/UM.FX1EE.001&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20977" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6946" RevisionGUID="c2d52b68-ea6d-4754-9f1a-e1348ebff474" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:23:29.413" UserId="4132" Text="What's an ideal center monitor in a ~23&quot; triple monitor setup for 90+/10-% productivity/gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20978" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6946" RevisionGUID="c2d52b68-ea6d-4754-9f1a-e1348ebff474" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:23:29.413" UserId="4132" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6947" RevisionGUID="4f970c12-1905-4ae5-8b3a-8e09e8aef516" CreationDate="2017-02-28T00:37:00.400" UserId="4132" Text="The Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ is said to be released in Q3 2017 and satisfies your requirements. It even supports G-Sync HDR. It'll likely cost around $1999 at launch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20980" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="4172d50c-6dda-4c8c-b0e9-38f097ff8fbd" CreationDate="2017-02-28T01:31:09.460" UserId="5636" Comment="Fixed a paragraph indentation mistake.  " Text="&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;I'm planning to purchase a 15-inch MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID soon and have been looking into Thunderbolt 3–based port-expansion solutions for it but have not been able to find anything quite to my liking.  I have looked at several different product pages for and comparative reviews of such devices or their Thunderbolt 2–based predecessors, including&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but most definitely not limited to:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sonnet Echo 15+&#xD;&#xA;* [Thunderbolt 3/USB-C Adapters, Cables, and Hubs for New MacBook Pro (MacRumors)](https://www.macrumors.com/2016/11/01/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-adapters-hubs-2016-mbp/)&#xD;&#xA;* [The Best Thunderbolt Dock | The Wirecutter](http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-thunderbolt-dock/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that the best solution so far actually seems like it might end up being the Sonnet Echo 15+, but I'm not entirely satisfied with this lead.  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;For one, I've seen reviews of the device on Amazon that criticize the device's manufacturer as being at least somewhat unresponsive to customer-support requests.  For another, I don't really know if I'm going to need those internal drive bays, though I'll probably regret not having an external disc drive&amp;thinsp;—&amp;thinsp;_yes_, I'm among those who still like optical media.  In addition, I could use passthrough ports for Thunderbolt _2_ as _well_ as for Thunderbolt 3 to hook up to a multi-port display adapter my dad owns (though an HDMI port on the port-expansion hub itself might render that pseudo-'requirement' partly moot, as I probably wouldn't have much use for said accessory's full-size DisplayPort and Mini-DVI ports.)  I might also find a FireWire _400_ port handy, too, as that would obviate the need for me to use a FireWire 400–to–FireWire 800 cable in situations that called for it.  Lastly, what I would _really_ like is if I could find something that could fit nice and snugly under the MacBook Pro just like the GameBoy Player attaches to the bottom of Nintendo's GameCube, and that would probably involve having a _slot_-loading drive in the hub.  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;**Bearing these requirements and preferences in mind, does anybody have any suggestions for where I could either find or custom-order something like what I'm describing?**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;I may try to expand on this list later, as this isn't everything I've looked through so far.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="d824e35a-5a13-4d7b-9830-0d7adde3e074" CreationDate="2017-02-28T01:39:09.510" UserId="5636" Comment="Struck through the post to signify that its contents will soon be replaced.  Also added and edit notice to the bottom.  " Text="&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;s&gt;I'm planning to purchase a 15-inch MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID soon and have been looking into Thunderbolt 3–based port-expansion solutions for it but have not been able to find anything quite to my liking.  I have looked at several different product pages for and comparative reviews of such devices or their Thunderbolt 2–based predecessors, including&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but most definitely not limited to:&lt;/s&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;s&gt;Sonnet Echo 15+&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;s&gt;[Thunderbolt 3/USB-C Adapters, Cables, and Hubs for New MacBook Pro (MacRumors)](https://www.macrumors.com/2016/11/01/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-adapters-hubs-2016-mbp/)&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;* &lt;s&gt;[The Best Thunderbolt Dock | The Wirecutter](http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-thunderbolt-dock/)&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;The problem is that the best solution so far actually seems like it might end up being the Sonnet Echo 15+, but I'm not entirely satisfied with this lead.&lt;/s&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;s&gt;For one, I've seen reviews of the device on Amazon that criticize the device's manufacturer as being at least somewhat unresponsive to customer-support requests.  For another, I don't really know if I'm going to need those internal drive bays, though I'll probably regret not having an external disc drive&amp;thinsp;—&amp;thinsp;_yes_, I'm among those who still like optical media.  In addition, I could use passthrough ports for Thunderbolt _2_ as _well_ as for Thunderbolt 3 to hook up to a multi-port display adapter my dad owns (though an HDMI port on the port-expansion hub itself might render that pseudo-'requirement' partly moot, as I probably wouldn't have much use for said accessory's full-size DisplayPort and Mini-DVI ports.)  I might also find a FireWire _400_ port handy, too, as that would obviate the need for me to use a FireWire 400–to–FireWire 800 cable in situations that called for it.  Lastly, what I would _really_ like is if I could find something that could fit nice and snugly under the MacBook Pro just like the GameBoy Player attaches to the bottom of Nintendo's GameCube, and that would probably involve having a _slot_-loading drive in the hub.&lt;/s&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&amp;thinsp;&lt;s&gt;**Bearing these requirements and preferences in mind, does anybody have any suggestions for where I could either find or custom-order something like what I'm describing?**&lt;/s&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;I may try to expand on this list later, as this isn't everything I've looked through so far.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(**N. b.:**  The reason this post has been struck through is because I am currently in the middle of making a major work-in-progress edit to it.  When I'm done, I suspect the results won't look _anything_ like what I currently have up.)  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20982" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="f09905aa-6732-43a5-9e6a-55197c3719f4" CreationDate="2017-02-28T02:25:54.673" UserId="5636" Comment="Added some text to this post's title to clarify its intent.  Massively reworked the question's body to better prioritize its main asking points.  " Text="&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Where might I find or commission a pre-made or custom-order a rather fully featured port-expansion hub or dock-like accessory designed to nest neatly underneath a 15-inch MacBook Pro with Touch Bar and Touch ID like the one I plan to order soon?  Specifically, I'm looking for a device with a complement of ports and media slots similar, but not identical, to that found on [Sonnet's Echo 15+ Thunderbolt 2 Dock](http://www.sonnettech.com/product/echo15thunderboltdock.html), but which interfaces with the aforementioned laptop using Thunderbolt 3 rather than its predecessor.  Here are the kinds of connectors and slots I would like to have on such a device:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* FireWire 400&#xD;&#xA;* FireWire 800&#xD;&#xA;* Mini DisplayPort/Thunderbolt 1 and 2&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.1 Gen. 2 Type C/Thunderbolt 3 passthrough&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.1 Gen. 2 Type A&#xD;&#xA;* Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;* SDSC/-HC/-XC card reader&#xD;&#xA;* A slot-loading optical drive capable of reading and writing to and from the following formats (basically, the same list of formats as the Sonnet dock I mentioned earlier:)  &#xD;&#xA;  * Bluray Disc (variants:  &#xD;&#xA;     * single- and double-layer BD-R&#xD;&#xA;     * triple- and quadruple-layer BD-R XL&#xD;&#xA;     * single- and double-layer BD-RE&#xD;&#xA;     * triple- and quadruple-layer BD-RE XL&#xD;&#xA;     * BD-ROM)&#xD;&#xA;  * DVD (variants:  &#xD;&#xA;     * DVD-RAM&#xD;&#xA;     * single- and double-layer DVD±R&#xD;&#xA;     * DVD±RW&#xD;&#xA;     * DVD-ROM)&#xD;&#xA;  * CD (variants:  &#xD;&#xA;     * CD-R&#xD;&#xA;     * CD-RW&#xD;&#xA;     * CD-ROM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical drive should support booting from discs as well, as one would probably expect.  In addition, I wouldn't mind also having access to the following additional functionality in such a device:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* An internal battery bank for battery lifetime extension&#xD;&#xA;* Space for additional solid-state storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know what kind of place might supply or custom-build such a product to or for me?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20983" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6904" RevisionGUID="f09905aa-6732-43a5-9e6a-55197c3719f4" CreationDate="2017-02-28T02:25:54.673" UserId="5636" Comment="Added some text to this post's title to clarify its intent.  Massively reworked the question's body to better prioritize its main asking points.  " Text="Where to Obtain an Expansive Thunderbolt 3 Port Expander Suitable for Mobile Use With a MacBook Pro w/ Touch Bar and Touch ID?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6948" RevisionGUID="222690d9-3429-4ecc-984e-fd0c556d6c57" CreationDate="2017-02-28T08:19:43.500" UserId="5689" Text="I'm looking for a projector which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - has a resolution of 1080p or better&#xD;&#xA; - an output of &gt; 3999 lumen&#xD;&#xA; - can be connected to wirelessly from Microsoft Windows 10 (Miracast?)&#xD;&#xA; - can be connected to from Apple macOS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(It's my understanding that Miracast isn't really/really isn't supported on macOS?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Who has any suggestions? We currently use a [BenQ MH740][1], and I've been ogling the [MH750][2] (with [QP01][3] dongle), but we're not married to BenQ so other brands are fine as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.benq.no/product/projector/mh740&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.benq.no/product/projector/mh750&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.benq.com/product/accessory/qcast_qp01/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20988" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6948" RevisionGUID="222690d9-3429-4ecc-984e-fd0c556d6c57" CreationDate="2017-02-28T08:19:43.500" UserId="5689" Text="A wireless projector both for Windows &amp; macOS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20989" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6948" RevisionGUID="222690d9-3429-4ecc-984e-fd0c556d6c57" CreationDate="2017-02-28T08:19:43.500" UserId="5689" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="4360df17-056f-4df1-9528-602fc6c27d07" CreationDate="2017-02-28T12:25:21.733" UserId="32" Text="I have two autistic children, sometimes they mirror their iPads to our TV and they get very frustrated when they try use YouTube on the TV only to find out that it's not touchscreen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A TV, we still need a TV to watch in the living room&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen &#xD;&#xA; - Builtin YouTube app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Endless number of touchscreen monitors NOT TVs&#xD;&#xA; - Endless number of SMART TVs with builtin YouTube app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Touchjet WAVE][1] turned out to be a big disappointment otherwise I would have gone for a smart TV and turned it into a touchscreen one using Touchjet WAVE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Apple Television][2] seems to be a myth, otherwise it would have been very idle for me as my children are very familiar with iOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What other options do I have? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/touchjet-wave-turns-tv-into-a-touchscreen-tablet-android-television#/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://campusbasement.com/undecided/apple/articles/9889/apple-unveils-new-60-inch-touchscreen-television" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="4360df17-056f-4df1-9528-602fc6c27d07" CreationDate="2017-02-28T12:25:21.733" UserId="32" Text="A touch screen TV with a YouTube app" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="4360df17-056f-4df1-9528-602fc6c27d07" CreationDate="2017-02-28T12:25:21.733" UserId="32" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6952" RevisionGUID="ab472c37-c5b5-4a7d-b32f-221f369c25d0" CreationDate="2017-02-28T18:54:33.740" UserId="5699" Text="I am trying to find a solution to be able to KVM two computers, both with two DisplayPort outputs (two video cards on one PC and a docking station with two ports) to a monitor array connected with two DisplayPort hubs that join three monitors (2x3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not even sure if the type of KVM I am looking for even exists.  Possible scenarios in my mind are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. KVM that has two inputs for each computer (2x2) and two outputs, or&#xD;&#xA; 2. A KVM model that can link multiple switches in a master/slave relationship so when the master is switched, the slave will switch as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the KVM solution would support DisplayPort 1.2 or higher." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21000" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6952" RevisionGUID="ab472c37-c5b5-4a7d-b32f-221f369c25d0" CreationDate="2017-02-28T18:54:33.740" UserId="5699" Text="KVM solution for 2 computers to switch 6 monitors (2x3) with DisplayPort connections" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21001" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6952" RevisionGUID="ab472c37-c5b5-4a7d-b32f-221f369c25d0" CreationDate="2017-02-28T18:54:33.740" UserId="5699" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6938" RevisionGUID="0f0d4c25-ad13-4954-beec-0c74f6e59352" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:50:26.703" UserId="5683" Comment="typo" Text="I know a handheld might not be the perfect device for programming, but for me it would be useful for working in short periods of time, for example while traveling, so please don't make it a debate about if it's a good idea or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to what I've been looking, the device must fulfill the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboard: Full QWERTY (including symbols). It should be not bigger than 6&quot;, or be divided in two parts (like [this][1]) and should have the buttons sticking out for easy use.&#xD;&#xA;- Connectivity: Wifi would be ok, but mobile connection would be better yet.&#xD;&#xA;- Performance: Should be enough to explore modern internet websites.&#xD;&#xA;- Touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's just one that actually fulfills all characteristics, but is still just a project, and very expensive by the way: the [DragonBox Pyra][2], the unique problem (ignoring the price) is that it's MIPS based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other great option would have been the &#xD;&#xA;&quot;Pepper Pad&quot; but lacks in performance (and are not produced anymore), other one would have been the &quot;Sony VAIO UX&quot;, but people says the keyboard is difficult to use, so it lacks too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not posting links to all devices, I can't as I don't have reputation yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Pepperpad2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dragonbox.de/en/45-pyra" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21010" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="c5802d63-190a-4c47-8fa6-7bfbca5cdbdd" CreationDate="2017-03-01T14:13:32.933" UserId="32" Comment="edited title" Text="A touch screen TV with YouTube app" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6956" RevisionGUID="2f76ddd8-2b29-45bf-b1ea-0a0aee4b0756" CreationDate="2017-03-01T19:14:52.627" UserId="4840" Text="I am looking for a simple USB monitor that is between 11-15 inches screen size for a cheap price. I'm looking mainly for portability that I can plug into a laptop to increase productivity. I would also need the monitor to be as thin as possible. I would be fine with a HDMI monitor too but I'm thinking of getting a couple and I only have one HDMI cable. Screen rez isn't a concern for me. Only as long as its not lower than 720p." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21014" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6956" RevisionGUID="2f76ddd8-2b29-45bf-b1ea-0a0aee4b0756" CreationDate="2017-03-01T19:14:52.627" UserId="4840" Text="Small USB monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21015" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6956" RevisionGUID="2f76ddd8-2b29-45bf-b1ea-0a0aee4b0756" CreationDate="2017-03-01T19:14:52.627" UserId="4840" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21017" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6952" RevisionGUID="c6bb99fa-2b4a-48d2-b69d-5498afa1996e" CreationDate="2017-03-01T19:51:20.823" UserId="5699" Comment="Added: &quot; and would cost between $100 and $500 USD&quot;" Text="I am trying to find a solution to be able to KVM two computers, both with two DisplayPort outputs (two video cards on one PC and a docking station with two ports) to a monitor array connected with two DisplayPort hubs that join three monitors (2x3) and one keyboard and one mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not even sure if the type of KVM I am looking for even exists.  Possible scenarios in my mind are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. KVM that has two inputs for each computer (2x2) and two outputs, or&#xD;&#xA; 2. A KVM model that can link multiple switches in a master/slave relationship so when the master is switched, the slave will switch as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the KVM solution would support DisplayPort 1.2 or higher and would cost between $100 and $500 USD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="f8d07ff7-2a13-45d9-9a0d-637b3af9151b" CreationDate="2017-03-01T20:01:00.753" UserId="527" Text="Can anyone recommend a low-cost multifunction printer/scanner that can perform 2-sided scans (double-sided scans)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can include a laser or inkjet printer.&#xD;&#xA; - Sheet-fed scanner is preferred, but not required.  Please specify in your answer if it has a sheet-fed scanner.  I'm thinking the only way to have 2-sided scanning would be sheet-fed, but I'm happy to be proven wrong!&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi access is required.&#xD;&#xA; - Fax is not needed.  Only printing and scanning functions are required.&#xD;&#xA; - Preferred cost should be under $150 (sale price is fine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="f8d07ff7-2a13-45d9-9a0d-637b3af9151b" CreationDate="2017-03-01T20:01:00.753" UserId="527" Text="Low-cost mutlifunction printer/scanner that can perform 2-sided scans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="f8d07ff7-2a13-45d9-9a0d-637b3af9151b" CreationDate="2017-03-01T20:01:00.753" UserId="527" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="d1113d07-25ae-4498-83f3-1ac9efecadaf" CreationDate="2017-03-01T20:26:07.257" UserId="527" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="Can anyone recommend a low-cost multifunction printer/scanner that can perform 2-sided scans (aka double-sided or duplex scans)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can include a laser or inkjet printer.&#xD;&#xA; - Sheet-fed scanner is preferred, but not required.  Please specify in your answer if it has a sheet-fed scanner.  I'm thinking the only way to have 2-sided scanning would be sheet-fed, but I'm happy to be proven wrong!&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi access is required.&#xD;&#xA; - Fax is not needed.  Only printing and scanning functions are required.&#xD;&#xA; - Preferred cost should be under $150 (sale price is fine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21028" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6845" RevisionGUID="f6c2096b-ff35-47b6-a353-3abc5b2cf01c" CreationDate="2017-03-02T02:17:24.123" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6962" RevisionGUID="2c48f4cc-376a-4a60-a24f-be7935f665c1" CreationDate="2017-03-02T08:15:13.750" UserId="5712" Text="Was looking at this also, found a USB NIC from Cypress, http://www.cypress.com/products/ez-usb-gx3-superspeed-usb-30-gigabit-ethernet-controller . In the datasheet it says &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supports IEEE 802.1Q VLAN tagging and 2 VLAN ID filtering; received  VLAN Tag  (4  bytes) can be  stripped off or preserved&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So assuming there is a dongle using this chip and that the drivers makes it possible to configure the vlan id to filter out, looks like it should work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;/Olof" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6965" RevisionGUID="a2a6c8ad-1b7d-4bcf-bc08-3977ff17f614" CreationDate="2017-03-02T13:32:25.537" UserId="5715" Text="ASUS has a series of 15&quot; mobile screens (with foldable stands similar to iPads) named MB167B, MB168B (2nd generation, MB169B+ (3rd gen., Full-HD) and MB169C (with USB C instead of USB A/B connectors). AFAIK they're all USB 3, but also work if only connected with USB 2 (then only with reduced brightness/backlight). Not sure if you consider them cheap, but at least I don't consider them expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You didn't specify the operating system you're using. So one more comment on these screens: One drawback is the lack of proper Linux drivers. There seem to be pre-compiled drivers for Ubuntu, but you'll find customer reviews that they don't work properly even on Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(That's the main reason why I never bought one. The other one is that 15&quot; is already too big for my tastes. So I'm curious if other answers show up to this question. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6965" RevisionGUID="169af645-a70e-4325-9461-9f36d2bbcb8e" CreationDate="2017-03-02T13:41:30.450" UserId="5715" Comment="Re-add MB169B" Text="ASUS has a series of 15&quot; mobile screens (with foldable stands similar to iPads) named MB167B, MB168B (2nd generation), MB169B (3rd generation) and MB169C (with USB C instead of USB A/B connectors). Additionally there are also models which end in B+ and C+ which are FullHD instead of just HD. AFAIK they're all USB 3, but also work if only connected with USB 2 (then only with reduced brightness/backlight). Not sure if you consider them cheap, but at least I don't consider them expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You didn't specify the operating system you're using. So one more comment on these screens: One drawback is the lack of proper Linux drivers. There seem to be pre-compiled drivers for Ubuntu, but you'll find customer reviews that they don't work properly even on Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(That's the main reason why I never bought one. The other one is that 15&quot; is already too big for my tastes. So I'm curious if other answers show up to this question. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21046" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="90dd0637-69c2-4a3b-8f3f-2786829fa1ef" CreationDate="2017-03-02T15:10:44.080" UserId="32" Comment="52" />
  <row Id="21047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6967" RevisionGUID="594b5344-4499-4d31-b140-594bec8273ee" CreationDate="2017-03-02T16:47:51.513" UserId="5715" Text="Try to get [one of the predecessors](http://www.notebookreview.com/notebookreview/lenovo-thinkpad-usb-keyboard-review/) of the keyboard you have. That would at least solve one of the two issues you mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got three of the X230-style ones (i.e. the direct predecessor of yours, not the very old IBM one which also has a Touchpad) and it's currently my favourite keyboard. I don't like the chiclet/apple style of the new ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They don't have your cable problem as the USB cable is hardwired to the device and can be folded into a compartment on the bottom side of the keyboard for transport. Unfortunately pressing the cable into the small slit from the compartment to outside too often damages the cable. So I usually leave it in that slit and bend it back from the outside into the compartment for transport.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But then again, they're not wireless either. (But I do prefer wired keyboards anyways, so that's no issue for me.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other issue I have with these keyboards: The labels on often used keys wear off after a while (i.e. years of daily usage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But otherwise I'm very happy with them — which is also the reason why I own three of them. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21048" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="7903f03a-b97a-4b90-8786-db128b54ccce" CreationDate="2017-03-02T21:45:40.667" UserId="527" Comment="added 253 characters in body" Text="Can anyone recommend a low-cost multifunction printer/scanner that can perform 2-sided scans (aka double-sided or duplex scans)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can include a laser or inkjet printer.&#xD;&#xA; - Sheet-fed scanner is preferred, but not required.  Please specify in your answer if it has a sheet-fed scanner.  I'm thinking the only way to have 2-sided scanning would be sheet-fed, but I'm happy to be proven wrong!&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi access is required.&#xD;&#xA; - Fax is not needed.  Only printing and scanning functions are required.&#xD;&#xA; - Preferred cost should be under $150 (sale price is fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update: I have found 2 devices that meet these criteria, but I am interested in all (correct) answers, so I can compare the possibilities.  Also, answers from people who have experience using specific devices is especially appreciated. Thanks!***" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21056" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="6958" RevisionGUID="36231a08-b349-4c84-b451-6ae4ccf562b0" CreationDate="2017-03-03T06:30:22.727" UserId="527" Comment="Rollback to [d1113d07-25ae-4498-83f3-1ac9efecadaf]" Text="Can anyone recommend a low-cost multifunction printer/scanner that can perform 2-sided scans (aka double-sided or duplex scans)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can include a laser or inkjet printer.&#xD;&#xA; - Sheet-fed scanner is preferred, but not required.  Please specify in your answer if it has a sheet-fed scanner.  I'm thinking the only way to have 2-sided scanning would be sheet-fed, but I'm happy to be proven wrong!&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi access is required.&#xD;&#xA; - Fax is not needed.  Only printing and scanning functions are required.&#xD;&#xA; - Preferred cost should be under $150 (sale price is fine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="a283c13b-63be-4aa2-bb4d-90ffaf030090" CreationDate="2017-03-03T10:37:05.863" UserId="964" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command find on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the two usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="a283c13b-63be-4aa2-bb4d-90ffaf030090" CreationDate="2017-03-03T10:37:05.863" UserId="964" Text="USB to IDE adapter that can send the ATA Secure Erase command" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="a283c13b-63be-4aa2-bb4d-90ffaf030090" CreationDate="2017-03-03T10:37:05.863" UserId="964" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21070" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6972" RevisionGUID="abd03aec-b039-4e42-93cc-2757ef169ebf" CreationDate="2017-03-03T16:41:41.603" UserId="57" Text="If you are willing to adjust your price slightly, I recommend the [HP OfficeJet Pro 8720][1]. It won [The Wirecutter's][2] best all in one printer recommendation in September 2016.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HP OfficeJet Pro 8720][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Among the many features listed on Amazon:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fast two-sided copying and scanning: Breeze through multipage documents with one-pass two-sided scanning and a 50-page automatic document feeder. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the downside: Normally this is a $300 machine. It is currently on sale on Amazon for $165. It's slightly above budget, but I believe it's worth the extra $15. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJNMMZG/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-all-in-one-printer/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5Lwg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6974" RevisionGUID="8d6ba534-df2f-4583-9711-4e1afcda76b0" CreationDate="2017-03-03T19:51:37.510" UserId="5726" Text="A friend and I are working on remote machines (i.e. a thousand miles away). They need to share a USB device, and there are many wonderful solutions for this such as&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Kensington-ShareCentral-Device-Sharing-K33900US/dp/B0014IUVQA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only problem is that the switch is manual, which is sufficient for most cases. But not good for Mr 1000-miles-away Superuser. Is anyone aware of a company that makes switches (USB or KVM) that can be controlled remotely, either by the host machines, or possibly via internet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21075" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6974" RevisionGUID="8d6ba534-df2f-4583-9711-4e1afcda76b0" CreationDate="2017-03-03T19:51:37.510" UserId="5726" Text="Device Sharing over USB with remote, programmatic control (not a button)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21076" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6974" RevisionGUID="8d6ba534-df2f-4583-9711-4e1afcda76b0" CreationDate="2017-03-03T19:51:37.510" UserId="5726" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6977" RevisionGUID="2c728df1-90e6-445e-a718-daea2f153f63" CreationDate="2017-03-03T21:07:40.740" UserId="4504" Text="You actually answered your own question with a perfectly acceptable hardware rec! &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[The USB Switch ][1] acts like any KVM switch, press num-lock two times and it will switch over. Found this in a review...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the reviewer on amazon - &quot;Something I don't think anyone else has mentioned in other reviews (and that I discovered completely by accident) is that this switch will flip both of the USB connections from one computer to the other when you press Num-Lock twice in rapid succession&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;You can create a little batch file on the desktop that fires the numlock keypress two times..  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Set WshShell = WScript.CreateObject(&quot;WScript.Shell&quot;)  &#xD;&#xA;WshShell.SendKeys &quot;{NUMLOCK}&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;WshShell.SendKeys &quot;{NUMLOCK}&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This little batch should send the keypresses to the host and get the USB device to flip over.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Let me know if this fits the bill, or if you're looking for something else :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014IUVQA/?tag=stackoverfl08-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21086" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="6871" RevisionGUID="2b850ae6-1f22-4710-be16-2dabfb79b72a" CreationDate="2017-03-03T21:25:49.973" UserId="155" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:3836,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam Wykes&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6978" RevisionGUID="0cbbb033-defc-4982-a06d-f5e013f662cf" CreationDate="2017-03-03T22:35:29.573" UserId="4523" Text="After further research using the correct search terms (and digging deeper on each device as neither Amazon or Newegg are that good at listing all relevant information, I have come up with this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Epson WorkForce WF-3620 WiFi Direct All-in-One Color Inkjet Printer, Copier, Scanner](https://www.amazon.com/Epson-WorkForce-WF-3620-Printer-Scanner/dp/B00JXLGF06/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488580177&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=duplex+scanning&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-15000)  $83.07 @ Amazon.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has everything you asked for, and is under budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6981" RevisionGUID="3f397d79-81c2-4ea8-9234-c244e291202b" CreationDate="2017-03-04T00:45:16.940" UserId="4476" Text="I found a couple of options. I ended up going with a [Hard Disk Drive Shipping Box - Slotted Storage Container Package][1] from Tek Source Solutions. This ended up costing around $35 on eBay and they claim it will hold 20-24 3.5&quot; drives or I can double them up to store 40-48 2.5&quot; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have that many, so I can use this to store the few drives I have and maybe fill up the rest of the box with other similar sized cards, RAM, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another item I found was the [HDD Paper Storage Box with Cover (5-Bay)][2] from Brando Workshop. This was a modest $16 to hold five 3.5&quot; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these are primarily simple cardboard boxes, so I'll probably leave the hardware in its respective anti-static bags while in the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I wanted to get was one of the foam containers from [ProStorage][3] such as their ProStorage18, but it's $80. It looks like the entire container is anti-static, so I imagine I wouldn't need the drives stored in their anti-static bags if I got this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tssgrp.com/index.php/products/packaging-supplies-for-computer-a-it-products&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://usb.brando.com/hdd-paper-storage-box-with-cover-5-bay-_p00962c0044d015.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://getprostorage.com/store/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21106" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6939" RevisionGUID="a2ba6b31-f7c1-4314-9f9a-8aee33b23180" CreationDate="2017-03-04T05:19:33.470" UserId="1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:4504,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;BigElittles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Undo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21108" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="b87ee9d9-2d6b-451e-ba38-0be1e65b1078" CreationDate="2017-03-04T12:25:25.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6983" RevisionGUID="3a79971e-4464-4862-828e-bcf2a3553c7b" CreationDate="2017-03-04T15:34:40.107" UserId="4840" Text="I found a 4200 lumen projector on Amazon.com by EUG:&#xA;[EUG 4200 lumen 1080p wireless][1]&#xA;&#xA;It is compatible with a variety of different wireless casting programs including Airplay and Miracast.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TYBJE7Q/ref=psdcmw_300334_t1_B00QLU79RA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21126" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="38b5281d-dde4-49d5-ba0d-10981b6628ac" CreationDate="2017-03-05T11:55:34.977" UserId="964" Comment="53" />
  <row Id="21127" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6987" RevisionGUID="6abb6707-09fe-47a1-8b36-0d957a387781" CreationDate="2017-03-05T12:43:08.803" UserId="4136" Text="I'm searching for an ATX power supply which is powered by a 12V input. Peak power 300W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Outputs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 1 standard ATX mainboard connector&#xD;&#xA;* 1 4-pin cpu power connector&#xD;&#xA;* 1 6-pin PCI-E power connector&#xD;&#xA;* 2 SATA power connectors (5V is enough)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Input: 12V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found various power supplies which provide only the first two connectors. Now I can improvise the SATA connectors (step-down the 12V to 5V, wire up the connectors, done), but the PCI-E connector isn't that simple I think (has a sense line to compensate for voltage drops).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A sufficient answer would either be the power supply I described, or if someone knew if it's possible to drop the sense line from the PCI-E connector (and if the answer is yes), then that would also solve my problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21128" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6987" RevisionGUID="6abb6707-09fe-47a1-8b36-0d957a387781" CreationDate="2017-03-05T12:43:08.803" UserId="4136" Text="Standard ATX power supply but powered from 12V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21129" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6987" RevisionGUID="6abb6707-09fe-47a1-8b36-0d957a387781" CreationDate="2017-03-05T12:43:08.803" UserId="4136" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6988" RevisionGUID="2b663368-29b2-4341-956e-f4c2b148aa57" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:01:06.693" UserId="1189" Text="I use an Apple TimeCapsule (2011) as my home LAN router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've run out of free Ethernet ports on the TimeCapsule, so I need to extend the network; probably using a Gigabit switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the TimeCapsule, I'm going to run a 10 metre CAT6 Ethernet cable, to a switch, and then from that connect to my NAS and Philips Hue hub. The NAS is my main media server, so therefore network speed is a consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never purchased a Gigabit switch before, so I'm pretty oblivious where to begin searching in the consumer jungle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Are Gigabit switches generally commoditized products, or are they differentiated in meaningful ways?&#xD;&#xA;* If so, what are the considerations that generally should be taken into account? Speed, security, ease and access to configuration, choice of brand and services/support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My impression is that switches for home use are relatively commoditized and fail-safe products, and cost competitive alternatives can be easily found. Am I wrong in this? Could the switch, for instance, impair the functionality of my NAS in some way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'm looking for a fairly cheap Gigabit Switch, typically with 3-4 ports. Perhaps around the $30-50 USD mark or less if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* It should have all functionality that should be expected of a consumer-grade personal LAN Gigabit switch.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21133" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6988" RevisionGUID="2b663368-29b2-4341-956e-f4c2b148aa57" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:01:06.693" UserId="1189" Text="Gigabit Switch for Home LAN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21134" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6988" RevisionGUID="2b663368-29b2-4341-956e-f4c2b148aa57" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:01:06.693" UserId="1189" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21138" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6990" RevisionGUID="82c46772-7c66-4d1f-8575-0ea683f2cceb" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:31:29.853" UserId="8" Text="For home networking, TP-Link and Netgear are the brands I've found most affordable and relilable; TP-Link tends to be a little cheaper and Netgear a little more reliable, but there's little difference between them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On my home network, I've got a **[TP-Link TL-SG1005D](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N99BBC)**. This is a Gigabit, 5-port, unmanaged switch - plug the uplink port into your Time Capsule, and the other ports will Just Work&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt;. You don't need to do any configuration at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon lists the regular price as $21.97, though it's currently on sale at $16.99.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also an 8-port version of the same thing available for $3 more, in case you want to expand - honestly, for $3 extra I'd recommend getting the 8-port version even if you don't *currently* need more than 5 ports." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6988" RevisionGUID="abca5795-84a4-4ef1-b4cc-b021eb17338f" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:34:06.690" UserId="1189" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I use an Apple TimeCapsule (2011) as my home LAN router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've run out of free Ethernet ports on the TimeCapsule, so I need to extend the network; probably using a Gigabit switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the TimeCapsule, I'm going to run a 10 metre CAT6 Ethernet cable, to a switch, and then from that connect to my NAS and Philips Hue hub. The NAS is my main media server, so therefore network speed is a consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never purchased a Gigabit switch before, so I'm pretty oblivious where to begin searching in the consumer jungle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Are Gigabit switches generally commoditized products, or are they differentiated in meaningful ways?&#xD;&#xA;* If so, what are the considerations that generally should be taken into account? Speed, security, ease and access to configuration, choice of brand and services/support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My impression is that switches for home use are relatively commoditized and fail-safe products, and cost competitive alternatives can be easily found. Am I wrong in this? Could the switch, for instance, impair the functionality of my NAS in some way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'm looking for a fairly cheap Gigabit Switch, typically with 3-4 ports. Perhaps around the $30-50 USD mark or less if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* It should have all functionality that should be expected of a consumer-grade personal LAN Gigabit switch.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="33d9a606-0b73-4426-b978-bfff52bf8361" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:49:05.437" UserId="964" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command find on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the two usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to *SATA* converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="65351dcf-1c3b-4d66-b984-4b264e42bfc9" CreationDate="2017-03-05T17:37:38.157" UserId="964" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command find on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the two usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21154" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="f8ef1bae-0574-48ff-ab5a-3491466e6b88" CreationDate="2017-03-05T22:14:20.867" UserId="964" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21156" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6377" RevisionGUID="a93cdd9e-c170-4fa6-864c-159f11589141" CreationDate="2017-03-05T22:26:16.737" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6994" RevisionGUID="c2ac0989-e93d-49e0-a2d9-5abd93a446e0" CreationDate="2017-03-06T02:09:18.930" UserId="531" Text="Pretty much only lenovo seems to make keyboards with trackpoints. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using one with a small trackball and it works pretty well. [This specific one][1] is made by IOGear. its not quite as awesome as a trackpoint but I find its very usable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard has excellent travel and the keys are far enough to be usable even with big hands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its 2.4ghz wireless and has its own proprietary dongle . Its battery powered (Pair of AAA batteries) so no USB cables. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has multimedia keys (if you need them) and the option of those little mouse buttons or a pair of &quot;shoulder&quot; buttons. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.iogear.com/product/GKM681R/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9w4M.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6997" RevisionGUID="6072c43f-8393-4b29-add2-c258eff24860" CreationDate="2017-03-06T10:40:17.607" UserId="3788" Text="I'm looking for a Bluetooth-based Traffic Message Channel (RDS-TMC) receiver which communicates over a known protocol, allowing me to query it via a program I'm going to develop myself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some Bluetooth TMC devices out there, but I suspect some of them might speak the same proprietary protocol as their USB counterparts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone come across anything like that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21166" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="6997" RevisionGUID="6072c43f-8393-4b29-add2-c258eff24860" CreationDate="2017-03-06T10:40:17.607" UserId="3788" Text="FOSS-friendly Bluetooth TMC device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21167" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="6997" RevisionGUID="6072c43f-8393-4b29-add2-c258eff24860" CreationDate="2017-03-06T10:40:17.607" UserId="3788" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21170" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1657" RevisionGUID="ceb5dbdf-a34d-4a62-9ba9-b9cfa4762d84" CreationDate="2017-03-06T13:30:45.150" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21173" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="e0661ab9-0da8-4172-82f7-81241af77b98" CreationDate="2017-03-06T15:29:28.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="6998" RevisionGUID="71d99e8f-1415-4af0-9190-3fdbb5bd9607" CreationDate="2017-03-06T17:23:28.793" UserId="5105" Text="For whoever looking for a solution to the similar problem, I went with [this club3d adapter][1]. You will need to use SwitchResX software to force OSX to output 4k@60Hz. There are tons of online resources on how to create a custom resolution in SwitchResX, so I'm not going to post it here. Club3d is a bit more expensive than @NZKshatriya's suggestion. I would give it a try before buying Club3d.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21178" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="d10d68a7-be92-4dde-b1b1-325240347ea5" CreationDate="2017-03-06T19:25:12.543" UserId="964" Comment="added 916 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: &#xD;&#xA;Found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just read [man hdparm][2] At the beginning it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need a USB-ATA bridge that supports *SAT*. It's irritating they gave it a name similar to *SATA*, when my drive is *PATA*!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7003" RevisionGUID="7d920b4d-ce7b-4888-9dc1-eb79b3a47696" CreationDate="2017-03-07T12:51:26.733" UserId="5748" Text="I stepped on this problem some time ago when I tried arbitrary [smartmontools][1] commands and they refused to work on USB hard drive. After investigation of this issue it come out that not all USB to SATA/PATA adapters supports bypassing direct ATA commands to hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need USB bridge that provides SAT (an ATA pass-through) commands.   &#xD;&#xA;Chipsets that support it: ASMedia, Initio, Oxford, newer JMicron-JM20329, JM20335-39, Prolific PL2507/3507 PL2571/2771/2773/2775 ,Sunplus SPIF215/6, SPIF225/6.   &#xD;&#xA;Jmicron, Prolific and Sunplus supports fully ATA pass-through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reference: https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.smartmontools.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21189" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="6ec7f335-3d9e-4e8a-af28-35274d79cb0b" CreationDate="2017-03-07T12:54:43.993" UserId="964" Comment="53" />
  <row Id="21190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="14ff6e6c-c199-4c68-aab1-a1e53f902f88" CreationDate="2017-03-07T13:51:44.193" UserId="4136" Text="I'm searching for a phone which meets those requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Either below $100, or rugged (that is, I want to minimize cost of use. And I tend to drop things) &#xD;&#xA;* No larger than 4.5&quot;, but the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;* Supported by current LineageOS (used to be named Cyanogenmod)&#xD;&#xA;* 4G&#xD;&#xA;* Removable storage, i.e. uSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While there are other requirements, I don't think there can be a candidate which meets the ones I listed, but not the ones I didn't list." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21191" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="14ff6e6c-c199-4c68-aab1-a1e53f902f88" CreationDate="2017-03-07T13:51:44.193" UserId="4136" Text="Small LineageOS phone, either cheap or rugged" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21192" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="14ff6e6c-c199-4c68-aab1-a1e53f902f88" CreationDate="2017-03-07T13:51:44.193" UserId="4136" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="71e629b3-ac81-47fd-83fb-4335ab71530f" CreationDate="2017-03-07T16:32:37.283" UserId="964" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: &#xD;&#xA;Found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just read [man hdparm][2]. At the beginning it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need a USB-ATA bridge that supports *SAT*. It's irritating they gave it a name similar to *SATA*, when my drive is *PATA*!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="cbf132a0-abc4-4997-96c6-4766c1ee6f26" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:18:01.600" UserId="990" Text="Because I will have to send my OnePlus 2 away for repairs, I have been looking for a solid back-up phone that compensates for the features my current phone lacks (expandable storage and quick charging).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into phones from Xiaomi and LeEco since they have interesting phones such as the Mi Max and the LeMax 2. Both phones have distinctive features for a price that cannot be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Watching a lot of reviews, here are the things I like/dislike about both phones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Xiaomi Mi Max**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a huge screen coming in at 6.44 inch&#xD;&#xA; - Has a large battery that lasts two to three days for more users&#xD;&#xA; - The version I want to get, sports 4 gigs of RAM and 128 gigs of storage&#xD;&#xA; - Has the option to expand the storage with an additional SD card&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - The 16 MP camera is decent during the day but mediocre in low light situations&#xD;&#xA; - The build quality is not on par with the LeMax 2&#xD;&#xA; - Still uses micro USB for data transfer and charging&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**LeEco LeMax 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Incredible specs at a very decent price (4 gigs of RAM, a Snapdragon 820 SoC and a 21 MP camera)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Uses USB-C for data transfer and charging&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a better camera than the Mi Max on the front and the back&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Lacks a dedicated audio jack (but an adapter is included)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Storage is not (easily) expandable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The battery is of a lesser capacity than the Mi Max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Where and what will I be using it for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be mainly using it to series and movies when I'm traveling. I will also use the phone at festivals and conventions to ocassionally take pictures and record videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That left me in the middle since the Mi Max sounds like the perfect phone to consume media without having to worry about the battery running dry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, the LeEco has the superior specs and might even beat my OnePlus Two but the storage is not expandable which is a pity....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which phone would suit my needs based on what both phones offer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I already have a few shops where I can order the phones so that won't necessary." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="cbf132a0-abc4-4997-96c6-4766c1ee6f26" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:18:01.600" UserId="990" Text="Choosing a back-up smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="cbf132a0-abc4-4997-96c6-4766c1ee6f26" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:18:01.600" UserId="990" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7007" RevisionGUID="b9373ed9-a177-4898-8da6-ae04e1a189f4" CreationDate="2017-03-07T20:05:57.260" UserId="162" Text="If you want an expandable, very reliable, pretty cheap backup phone I would go with an Samsung S5. Does not have the great specs you listed but it may be alot more reliable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21226" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6156" RevisionGUID="0f31dd35-49d7-4055-8633-0119ef1727e8" CreationDate="2017-03-08T18:13:34.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7013" RevisionGUID="f9f297bd-21a0-4a3d-b4f5-2171f82cb696" CreationDate="2017-03-08T20:56:17.767" UserId="65" Text="Seagate has recently released a [5TB drive for $85](http://www.pcworld.com/article/3130234/storage-drives/seagate-drops-the-worlds-largest-tiny-hard-drive.html).  It's also 5400RPM, but that doesn't matter much these days, because if you're very performance-sensitive, SSD is the way to go anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21228" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="ac095176-4e93-48a2-893c-04e536d1d328" CreationDate="2017-03-08T21:49:59.907" UserId="5445" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Magic Leap&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6938" RevisionGUID="02821c03-c783-444e-9de7-14a54e93903e" CreationDate="2017-03-09T00:03:51.060" UserId="5683" Comment="not MIPS, but ARM" Text="I know a handheld might not be the perfect device for programming, but for me it would be useful for working in short periods of time, for example while traveling, so please don't make it a debate about if it's a good idea or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to what I've been looking, the device must fulfill the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboard: Full QWERTY (including symbols). It should be not bigger than 6&quot;, or be divided in two parts (like [this][1]) and should have the buttons sticking out for easy use.&#xD;&#xA;- Connectivity: Wifi would be ok, but mobile connection would be better yet.&#xD;&#xA;- Performance: Should be enough to explore modern internet websites.&#xD;&#xA;- Touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's just one that actually fulfills all characteristics, but is still just a project, and very expensive by the way: the [DragonBox Pyra][2], the unique problem (ignoring the price) is that it's ARM based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other great option would have been the &#xD;&#xA;&quot;Pepper Pad&quot; but lacks in performance (and are not produced anymore), other one would have been the &quot;Sony VAIO UX&quot;, but people says the keyboard is difficult to use, so it lacks too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for not posting links to all devices, I can't as I don't have reputation yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Pepperpad2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dragonbox.de/en/45-pyra" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2251" RevisionGUID="ebea041d-47cf-479b-815d-273c7eb803f7" CreationDate="2017-03-09T03:22:30.667" UserId="2001" Comment="Added a new keyboard option, and updated information on keyboards that didn't make it past preorder." Text="**EDIT:** Another official Cherry MX Blue RGB option has become available recently, the Cooler Master [MasterKeys Pro L/S](http://amzn.to/2m0YfBE). This keyboard is not exactly new, but I ignored it for some time after the Cherry MX Blue versions were originally delayed. The keyboard is currently out and available for anyone looking at options besides the Corsair keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;**EDIT:** Since I first wrote this answer, ***Corsair has surprisingly brought back the [K70 RGB](http://amzn.to/1S5VxmH) in Cherry MX Blue switches.*** They were available on Amazon a few days ago, but quickly sold out.&lt;/s&gt; Unfortunately, it seems these aren't going to be restocked, meaning the Strafe RGB is likely the best option for Cherry MX Blue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair Strafe RGB](http://amzn.com/B014W1YLAM) is available in Cherry MX Blue switches, and is a great option if you cannot wait for the K70 RGB Blue. The reviews for this keyboard have improved over the last few months, and the one I tried had no problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;One of the previous answers mentioned the G.Skill KM780 keyboard, and the [KM780R RGB](http://amzn.com/B0186W6PGQ) is now available for preorder, unless Amazon is lying to us.&lt;/s&gt; The RGB version of this keyboard probably will never be available for Cherry MX Blue switches. The Amazon pages for the KM780R MX Blue RGB no longer exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also the [Poseidon Z RGB](http://amzn.to/1WNWaJw) keyboard, which is relatively cheap for an RGB keyboard. This keyboard does **NOT** have genuine Cherry MX switches (Kalih Blue), and I would only buy this as a last option, because some complain about the switches breaking after awhile of use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6894" RevisionGUID="03cff4a3-99d0-442a-a9a1-f710a1095e5e" CreationDate="2017-03-09T09:14:34.980" UserId="5645" Comment="added 318 characters in body" Text="I want to buy an audio player that satisfies these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. MicroSD slot which can read 64GB card or has device memory of at least this size&#xD;&#xA; 2. Hardware buttons which I can use without unlocking the display&#xD;&#xA; 3. No lags when navigating between songs&#xD;&#xA; 4. At least average audio quality&#xD;&#xA; 5. FLAC support&#xD;&#xA; 6. Price limit: 500$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend me any device which meets these conditions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I don't want to hack anything - replacing firmware etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 2: Price limit raised. I've tried these two devices so far&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FiiO X1 2nd gen&#xD;&#xA; - Astell &amp; Kern JR Sleek Silver 64GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both had the same problem: when I transferred about 3000 songs to the player (to a card in case of FiiO) and played them, it had huge lags between songs (after pushing the next button). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21237" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7015" RevisionGUID="ab9a0db9-55ab-4495-80ac-fa9aedcfa46d" CreationDate="2017-03-09T09:18:34.997" UserId="5758" Text="We need an external light for a Raspberry PI. This light should already ship with a case. Also it needs to have a cable (about 1 m). It doesn't matter whether it's USB or is plugged directly in the hardware pins of the PI. This light should be able to display RGB light. Some SDK should be shipped with it (like a Python library etc.). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21238" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7015" RevisionGUID="ab9a0db9-55ab-4495-80ac-fa9aedcfa46d" CreationDate="2017-03-09T09:18:34.997" UserId="5758" Text="RGB light with case and cable for Raspberry PI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21239" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7015" RevisionGUID="ab9a0db9-55ab-4495-80ac-fa9aedcfa46d" CreationDate="2017-03-09T09:18:34.997" UserId="5758" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21245" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="654c5d85-bb9c-488f-bc5c-d809cc2f5afd" CreationDate="2017-03-09T17:45:57.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="1e69c5e7-ffed-4c9e-ab1d-2f4d5722dd1d" CreationDate="2017-03-10T01:53:07.470" UserId="5763" Text="I have several computers that I plug into a stereo. With it, I can select which computer I want to listen to. But the thing is, I want to be able to listen to them all at once. There are audio mixers out there that will combine inputs, but they all involve studio mixing, which has far more functionality (and therefore cost) than I want to spend. How I can listen to multiple audio sources at once from one stereo? Daisy chaining has been one solution so far, but it's cumbersome and needlessly complex for what should be a simple task." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="1e69c5e7-ffed-4c9e-ab1d-2f4d5722dd1d" CreationDate="2017-03-10T01:53:07.470" UserId="5763" Text="Simple audio mixer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="1e69c5e7-ffed-4c9e-ab1d-2f4d5722dd1d" CreationDate="2017-03-10T01:53:07.470" UserId="5763" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;mixing-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21251" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="600" RevisionGUID="e6a5d309-8980-4cec-8395-c0b854f63a47" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.233" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://gaming.logitech.com/ with https://gaming.logitech.com/" Text="I decided on the [Logitech G600 Gaming Mouse](https://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g600-mmo-gaming-mouse) (~$80 USD) as the replacement. This mouse supports Logitech's Gaming Software. I plugged it into my computer and it recognized the mouse without having to install any drivers, and I still had all my profiles from my old mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can have 5 DPI settings per mode and there are 3 modes per profile. The DPI range is 200-8200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mouse has 20 buttons with 18 of them being customizable (you can change all 20, but you have to have a button for left click and another for right click). There is also a function called &quot;G-Shift&quot;, which is like a second page of macros for the profile. This means that you can have 34 macros on this mouse per mode (you must have buttons dedicated for left and right click, plus one button has to have the G-Shift function assigned to it).&#xD;&#xA;![][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://gaming.logitech.com/assets/47823/g600-gaming-mouse-images.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21252" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="733" RevisionGUID="fcbe45b7-89f9-40bc-b651-06ed6b89dad5" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.393" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://www.plantronics.com/ with https://www.plantronics.com/" Text="I've been using a [Plantronics Savi 700 Series](https://www.plantronics.com/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview) for the past few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![](https://www.plantronics.com/images/catalog/product/large/savi_w740.png)](https://www.plantronics.com/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Is way over budget** at $400. I got this as a gift through a fortunate series of events. I'm definitely open to other recommendations of cheaper products.&#xD;&#xA; - Connects to my MacBook through USB (the cord goes from the base to the laptop)&#xD;&#xA; - The headset itself is wireless, and has range allowing me to walk around my neighborhood block with minor degradation of sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a box full of different ways to affix it to your head - right now I'm using a springy headphone-type holder. &#xD;&#xA; - Has a pretty decent microphone, with decent response time&#xD;&#xA; - Has all-day battery life, if you remember to charge it at night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only gripe with it is that sometimes, if I leave it connected for more than a few hours, it starts to 'echo' - slowly turning into a high-pitched whine. I have no idea what this is, but it's easily fixed by turning it off/on again with the buttons on the base." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="897" RevisionGUID="c8151915-9eb0-4231-bebc-19021fc569fb" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.423" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://gaming.logitech.com/ with https://gaming.logitech.com/" Text="You could get better gaming mice for a 100 bucks but if you want all your technology running on one software I'd tell you to go for the [G602][1]. It's wireless but has a pretty huge battery life and about 11 programmable buttons, and it costs the same as the G600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g602-wireless-gaming-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gaming.logitech.com/assets/49411/5/g602-gaming-mouse.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="982" RevisionGUID="e7354998-369b-4289-93c1-b0ef7309b38d" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.483" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://cdn.wccftech.com/ with https://cdn.wccftech.com/" Text="I'm currently choosing parts for my new computer. I'm doing a lot of image processing and some of my algorithms are parallelized. In my free-time, I'm additionally up for some gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current system, although already built in 2011, runs an [Intel Core i7-2700K](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/61275/Intel-Core-i7-2700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz) with 4 real cores (8 HT) and 3.50GHz base frequency. This guy still rocks and looking through today's CPU's kind of give me the feeling that physical limitations for faster machines are clearly visible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After reading and looking through the prizes, I thought I found my favorite CPU for the next system, which is a [Intel Core i7-6700K 4GHz](http://ark.intel.com/de/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz?_ga=1.233340126.1977817799.1443741286), but then I saw [this comparison](http://wccftech.com/intel-skylake-s-core-i7-6700-k-benchmarks/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![compare](https://cdn.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Skylake_Cinebench-R15-635x355.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently, the [Intel Core i7-5820K with 6 cores](http://ark.intel.com/products/82932/Intel-Core-i7-5820K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz) (which is the 5th and not the 6th generation) is in many tests faster. Important for me is of course, that the CPU supports DDR4 memory, which it does.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** Taking into account that the prize is the same for both processors, I would be glad if someone had a recommendation. I'm keen to hear whether the difference in architecture (Skylake-S vs. Haswell-E) is somehow important for me. Probably there are other things I haven't considered." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21255" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1025" RevisionGUID="284a2b79-fcaf-4398-a2a1-c4aa093036d8" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.517" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://www.iogear.com/ with https://www.iogear.com/" Text="I have never used this, and I have never heard of this brand. However, this came up as one of the first results via a quick search on Google, so here it is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS402][1], a USB **2.0** switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to **2** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $50&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][2] for $28&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [IOGEAR GUS404][4], a USB **2.0** switch for connecting up to **4** usb devices to up to **4** different computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSRP: $60&#xD;&#xA; - Available on [Amazon][5] for $40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.iogear.com/product/GUS402/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.iogear.com/product_images/web/hi/GUS402_0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.iogear.com/product/GUS404/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS404/dp/B00BD8I3EI/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21256" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="52e5740c-f038-4ad4-8fb2-8a5ed1d2bc7b" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.547" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://cdn.shopify.com/ with https://cdn.shopify.com/" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping. Working with a good [Pilates][5] trainer helped me immensely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][6]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][8] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][9] (one for PC, [one for Mac][10]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][11]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;## DIY Dream&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. Built on top of the open [Aduino][12] platform. It can be *completely* re-programmed by you or third-parties. No restrictive license. You can even program control of each key’s individual LED light. &#xA;&#xA;For the convenience of non-programmers, a simple utility app arbitrarily re-assign keys any way you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [5]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilates&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xA;  [10]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xA;  [11]: http://shop.keyboard.io&#xA;  [12]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21257" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1824" RevisionGUID="f5f7ccac-08a2-4145-9da9-17c29e9b43b0" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.573" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://store.storeimages.cdn-apple.com/ with https://store.storeimages.cdn-apple.com/" Text="# Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad&#xA;&#xA;Apple sells nearly what you want in the [Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad](http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MB110LL/B/apple-keyboard-with-numeric-keypad-english-usa?fnode=56). Costs $ 50 USD.&#xA;&#xA;Just attach some rubber bumpers under the front corners to eliminate the incline.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://store.storeimages.cdn-apple.com/4194/as-images.apple.com/is/image/AppleInc/aos/published/images/M/B1/MB110LL/MB110LL?wid=400&amp;hei=400&amp;fmt=jpeg&amp;qlt=95&amp;op_sharpen=0&amp;resMode=bicub&amp;op_usm=0.5,0.5,0,0&amp;iccEmbed=0&amp;layer=comp&amp;.v=1400774915255&quot;&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="5b8c5c69-1d80-40c9-bca7-4f3b7e412b88" CreationDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.587" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://www.gns3.net/ with https://www.gns3.net/" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - http://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &lt;s&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - New supporting driver released on 2017-02-17 (following dependent Windows Updates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Work Arounds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21263" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="6949" RevisionGUID="2f363691-7f24-459a-b447-673c4d9e9622" CreationDate="2017-03-10T16:15:05.313" UserId="-1" Comment="52" />
  <row Id="21267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7019" RevisionGUID="44ed3892-35c4-40d6-ab6c-058b0098fc42" CreationDate="2017-03-11T09:28:01.043" UserId="5768" Text="I am going to buy a HTC Vive VR headset and a new PC dedicated to running it - which I am currently trying to spec.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am confused about the price disparity between graphics cards with the **same chipset**. For example, several manufacturers produce a card using the NVidia GeForce GTX 1080 chipset &amp; the disparity in price is significant. Currently, the most expensive cards cost 60% more than the least expensive one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mwave.com.au/graphics-cards/geforce-gtx-1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference, selected prices (in Australian dollars) from the above website in Mar/2017 are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Galax GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB                  $749&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS  GeForce GTX 1080 ROG Strix Gaming OC 8GB   $1199&#xD;&#xA;    MSI   GeForce GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK X 8GB         $1199&#xD;&#xA;    EVGA  GeForce GTX 1080 FTW HYBRID GAMING 8GB     $1199&#xD;&#xA;    EVGA  GeForce GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming iCX 8GB       $1199&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some manufacturers even produce different models using the same chipset. I naively expected that cards using the same chipset would give roughly the same performance. Given the price disparity, I suspect this is not the case or there must be some other significant points of differentiation (aka features). I'd like to understand a bit better what these are.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just so I don't get in trouble for being off-topic, here's my current dilemma: in what ways is a Galax GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB better/worse than an MSI GeForce GTX **1070** Gaming X 8GB? (Apart from the former costing only 17% more ($110) than the latter.) However, as mentioned above, I really would also like to understand how the higher price tags on some graphics cards are justified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21268" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7019" RevisionGUID="44ed3892-35c4-40d6-ab6c-058b0098fc42" CreationDate="2017-03-11T09:28:01.043" UserId="5768" Text="How to choose between GeForce GTX 1080 graphics cards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21269" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7019" RevisionGUID="44ed3892-35c4-40d6-ab6c-058b0098fc42" CreationDate="2017-03-11T09:28:01.043" UserId="5768" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7020" RevisionGUID="415c8825-8f3d-44d4-b276-199f354610f8" CreationDate="2017-03-11T11:59:06.260" UserId="273" Text="First, I'll be reviewing the reasons for price-differences on graphics cards with the exact same GPU chip, then I'll give a recommendation between the Galax GTX1080 and the MSI GTX1070.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are indeed quite a few properties that can set apart different graphics cards and which can influence the price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Clocking.** This is the most obvious one. The OEM can adapt the base and the maximal clock of the GPU and give it more performance this way, just like a higher-clocked CPU would be faster. Normally more is charged for higher clocked GPUs and they can offer a couple of percents of perfomance boost as well.&#xD;&#xA; - **Cooling and OC.** OEMs can customize the cooling for the chips and as such charge more for better cooling. They can also allow you to overclock their GPUs which usually requires good cooling. Better cooling means the GPU can maintain it's turbo-clock longer and it means you may be able to increase the base clock as well by using OC utilities, this increases performance and thus price.&#xD;&#xA; - **Noise.** GPUs are notoriously loud and as such OEMs can try and minimize this noise. This may include using slower-spinning and / or more efficient fans which tend to be more costly. Additionally the OEM may add in custom board logic that turns the fans off if the load / GPU temperature is low enough, which drastically reduces noise. Of course, less noise is harder to achieve and thus more expensive.&#xD;&#xA; - **Optical Design.** You may have noticed this trend, but everything on a computer has to have lights these days. This requires LEDs and the accompying circuit logic which costs money and also the placement costs designer time. So if you want a fancier graphics card, this will obviously cost you more.&#xD;&#xA; - **Brand Reputation.** Some brands may have a higher reputation and / or better warranty conditions (eg EVGA). People may really want to buy their stuff and thus they can demand higher prices, whereas a company without such a reputation may has to offer lower prices to still get sales off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now for the demanded comparison. The Galax (aka KFA2) GTX1080 EXOC ([1][1] [2 (German)][2]) has far less reviews and not a single from a high-reputation source (at least that I could identify), whereas the MSI GTX1070 Gaming X ([1][3] [2][4] [3][5]) has more reviews from more well-reputated magazines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX1070 will perform worse than the GTX1080 (mainly because the 1080 got _more cores_ at a similar clock) and I expect the GTX1080 to deliver 20-40% more FPS than the 1070 (which is by itself ~5% faster than a stock 1070).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's your decision, I expect both cards to have a similar price / perfomance point with the 1080 being off slightly worse, but of course $100 can also be invested elsewhere (for example if your CPU is pretty old).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ufdisciple.com/2016/09/galax-gtx-1080-exoc-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://game2gether.de/hardware/kfa2-geforce-gtx-1080-exoc-test-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1070_Gaming_X/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-1070-gaming-x-review,1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1070-graphics-card-roundup,4751-5.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21271" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7021" RevisionGUID="69f783bf-234c-4979-ac2e-50e33b26f02d" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:17:56.000" UserId="5762" Text="I am looking for a Nas for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**my needs :** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- data Storage (Photos, Videos, Etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- Multimedia server (streaming, Music)&#xD;&#xA;- Surveillance station (communication with cameras)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for a couple of weeks and now i am hesitating between two brands : Synology and QNap and precisely two NAS : the [Synology DS216+II][1] and the [QNap TS251+][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The QNap Hardware looks more interesting : 2GB RAM upgradable to 8GB, Quad Core CPU, the Synology 1GB RAM not upgradable and dual core CPU.&#xD;&#xA;Both NAS have almost the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be my first Nas so i don't have any experience with none of the two brands. Which Brand is more reliable ? And which one have the best apps ?   &#xD;&#xA;Any help would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/DS216+II&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.qnap.com/en/product/model.php?II=195" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21272" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7021" RevisionGUID="69f783bf-234c-4979-ac2e-50e33b26f02d" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:17:56.000" UserId="5762" Text="Which is a better NAS : Synology DS216+II or QNap TS251+" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21273" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7021" RevisionGUID="69f783bf-234c-4979-ac2e-50e33b26f02d" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:17:56.000" UserId="5762" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21274" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7022" RevisionGUID="469a15a6-0295-4230-adef-099fd5906e91" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:27:19.603" UserId="5740" Text="My Immediate suggestion would be to look at one of Behringer's XENYX options, the 502, 802 or 1002 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;these mixers are 5, 8 and 10 channel respectively and 35, 55 and 57 GBP respectively. the links are below (I could only post two links,???) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these options are too expensive then maybe you could provide a budget?? You also may need some extra wires with these as they take full sized aux cables (not xlr or 3.5 mm, you could use a 3.5 to full size adapter if that suits you better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpc.farnell.com/behringer/xenyx-502/mixing-console-xenyx-502/dp/DP29208&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpc.farnell.com/behringer/xenyx-1002/mixing-console-xenyx-1002/dp/DP29206" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7023" RevisionGUID="7b84d909-b0ac-4625-8535-0998f76e58e2" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:33:13.950" UserId="5740" Text="You can use a service in the UK Called sharedband, but this is proprietary if I'm am wondering correctly and you would have to have the two lines directly from the same company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;this could be used in conjunction with your 4g as you can use a wired connection to your computer and wireless from the 4g hub, and combine the two with Windows adapter bridging if that works for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21276" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7023" RevisionGUID="c9c61cba-f000-4ae4-9929-1d8a93ebb891" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:43:15.277" UserId="5740" Comment="Updates" Text="You can use a service in the UK called SharedBand, but this is proprietary and I think I am correct in saying that you would have to have the two lines directly from the same company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This could be used in conjunction with your 4G data connection by using both an ethernet connection from your two SharedBand routers and a wireless connection from your 4G mobile data connection. Your join the two with Windows adapter bridging mode if that works for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacOS and Linux may have something similar but I'm not sure about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit, we had this at my business premises because we were right out in the middle of nowhere and it was awfully slow. had this put in, almost a 1.8x speed increase, so with fibre, you are laughing with that kind of boost. particularly if both lines run at 76mbps and 4G on top of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might want to check if your computer's adaptor has the ability to go faster than 100mbps if you are using those kind of speeds though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7022" RevisionGUID="c145c992-04dc-4832-b1c4-b25fed0ca5e8" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:51:20.780" UserId="5740" Comment="more detail" Text="My Immediate suggestion would be to look at one of Behringer's XENYX options, the 502, 802 or 1002 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;these mixers are 5, 8 and 10 channel respectively and 35, 55 and 57 GBP respectively. the links are below (I could only post two links,???) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these options are too expensive then maybe you could provide a budget?? You also may need some extra wires with these as they take full sized aux cables (not xlr or 3.5 mm, you could use a 3.5 to full size adapter if that suits you better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpc.farnell.com/behringer/xenyx-502/mixing-console-xenyx-502/dp/DP29208&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpc.farnell.com/behringer/xenyx-1002/mixing-console-xenyx-1002/dp/DP29206&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know you said that these things have more functionality than you need, but at that price you can't really go wrong. it's very cheap for the actual hardware you are receiving. you may possibly need the extra tonal functionality at a later stage anyway, or if you want to add a little bit of bass to one of the lines!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21278" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7019" RevisionGUID="640376b9-cfd4-43c0-b20d-529edea30c37" CreationDate="2017-03-11T22:07:58.880" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7024" RevisionGUID="37eacc93-75ec-4128-9c3e-2635127c1b7a" CreationDate="2017-03-11T22:51:00.930" UserId="5770" Text="Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;1. Should be able to run C++ programs  &#xD;&#xA;2. Price should be less then 20$ (better if &lt;=10$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21281" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7024" RevisionGUID="37eacc93-75ec-4128-9c3e-2635127c1b7a" CreationDate="2017-03-11T22:51:00.930" UserId="5770" Text="Cheapest microcontroller with wi-fi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21282" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7024" RevisionGUID="37eacc93-75ec-4128-9c3e-2635127c1b7a" CreationDate="2017-03-11T22:51:00.930" UserId="5770" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="9d8c31ff-e57f-4b0a-9e98-d35a9dd7f685" CreationDate="2017-03-12T10:35:38.337" UserId="5775" Text="Please advise of any smartwatches that have timers that autorestart features namely where dismiss and reset are in one swipe and swipes are required or how certain smartwatch alarms can achieve such.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Context:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had previously asked about [Pomodoro][1] or [HIIT][2] timer variants that have an autoreset feature unlike timer but still asked to be dismissed. Do Android smartwatches have something like what [I Can't Wake Up][3] has?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's say it is 11:59am. I want to be reminded of the time at 12:05pm and then be reminded every 5 minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I am using my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So either I set a timer for 5 minutes when it's 12pm or I set an alarm to ring at 12:05pm. If timer: I want an option to autorestart after dismiss (so far I haven't found any). If alarm: I want an option to snooze not so easily (with I Can't Wake Up, I can make it so that I have to slide up to snooze or slide down to dismiss).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's a hassle to get my phone out every time wherein sometimes I have to first unlock the phone first snoozing the alarm (I Can't Wake Up has 'Quit Block', but I have yet to try this).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping some smartwatch has the ability to go off at 12:05pm or 5 minutes after I set the timer (which would be around 12pm) so that I just have to swipe my watch instead of taking out my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find such features for any smartwatch, but I may be using wrong keywords.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/30949/countdown-timer-or-pomodoro-for-android-that-is-automatically-restarted-but-asks/39551#39551&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/31167/hiit-timer-variant-for-android&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kog.alarmclock&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21294" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="9d8c31ff-e57f-4b0a-9e98-d35a9dd7f685" CreationDate="2017-03-12T10:35:38.337" UserId="5775" Text="Which smartwatches have autorestart timers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21295" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="9d8c31ff-e57f-4b0a-9e98-d35a9dd7f685" CreationDate="2017-03-12T10:35:38.337" UserId="5775" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21296" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7029" RevisionGUID="d27956a3-5eb2-4567-bad5-95dedc7e5e30" CreationDate="2017-03-12T11:33:08.590" UserId="4232" Text="It is not clear if you are looking for a microcontroller (i.e. a chip) with wifi support, or a single-board microcomputer with built-in wifi. If it is latter, then you have plenty of options. One of them is the latest iterations of the Raspberry Pi series of single-board systems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi Zero W](https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-zero-w-joins-family/) is available for $10. It contains on-board 802.11n wireless LAN and Bluetooth 4.0. You will have to add other stuff to get it going, but you should be able to run it headerless with nothing more than a 5V PSU and a 4GB micro SD card to hold the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing that I have not been able to establish is whether you can use the onboard Bluetooth to connect a wireless keyboard and mouse, or whether you will need to connect a wireless dongle to the (single) USB C socket, for which you will at least need a USB C to A converter cable. Starter kits are available, but this will increase the price considerably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi 3](https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b/) is more expensive than the Zero W (you should be able to buy one in the US for $35), but it gives you more connection options and it is what I would choose for development purposes. You get 802.11n and Bluetooth 4.1, plus 4 x USB 2.0 ports (with USB A sockets, so no converter cables), and also 100Mb/s Ethernet. Once you have got your software working on the Raspberry Pi 3, it should run quite happily on a Raspberry Pi Zero W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [CHIP](https://getchip.com/pages/chip) is another possibility. For $9, you get onboard 802.11b/g/n, Bluetooth 4.0, and also 4GB of storage for software. It is not as well-established as the Raspberry Pi, and like the Raspberry Pi, you will need to add other stuff to get it going. However, you should be able to run it headerless with just a 5V PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The important thing to consider with any of these systems is what you will need to add to make them usable, both for development purposes and also in the field." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21297" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7029" RevisionGUID="94110712-9b04-4e72-986f-d4f18ecbcdbe" CreationDate="2017-03-12T11:38:52.930" UserId="4232" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="It is not clear if you are looking for a microcontroller (i.e. a chip) with wifi support, or a single-board microcomputer with built-in wifi. If it is latter, then you have plenty of options. One of them is the latest iteration of the Raspberry Pi series of single-board systems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi Zero W](https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-zero-w-joins-family/) is available for $10. It contains on-board 802.11n wireless LAN and Bluetooth 4.0. You will have to add other stuff to get it going, but you should be able to run it headerless with nothing more than a 5V PSU and a 4GB micro SD card to hold the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing that I have not been able to establish is whether you can use the onboard Bluetooth to connect a wireless keyboard and mouse, or whether you will need to connect a wireless dongle to the (single) USB C socket, for which you will at least need a USB C to A converter cable. Starter kits are available, but this will increase the price considerably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi 3](https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b/) is more expensive than the Zero W (you should be able to buy one in the US for $35), but it gives you more connection options and it is what I would choose for development purposes. You get 802.11n and Bluetooth 4.1, plus 4 x USB 2.0 ports (with USB A sockets, so no converter cables), and also 100Mb/s Ethernet. Once you have got your software working on the Raspberry Pi 3, it should run quite happily on a Raspberry Pi Zero W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [CHIP](https://getchip.com/pages/chip) is another possibility. For $9, you get onboard 802.11b/g/n, Bluetooth 4.0, and also 4GB of storage for software. It is not as well-established as the Raspberry Pi, and like the Raspberry Pi, you will need to add other stuff to get it going. However, you should be able to run it headerless with just a 5V PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The important thing to consider with any of these systems is what you will need to add to make them usable, both for development purposes and also in the field." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21298" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7029" RevisionGUID="edd3027e-0d97-4897-b594-9ad3485e3eee" CreationDate="2017-03-12T11:47:36.460" UserId="4232" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="It is not clear if you are looking for a microcontroller (i.e. a chip) with wifi support, or a single-board microcomputer with built-in wifi. If it is latter, then you have plenty of options. One of them is the latest iteration of the Raspberry Pi series of single-board systems:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi Zero W](https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-zero-w-joins-family/) is available for $10. It contains on-board 802.11n wireless LAN and Bluetooth 4.0. You will have to add other stuff to get it going, but you should be able to run it headerless with nothing more than a 5V PSU and a 4GB micro SD card to hold the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing that I have not been able to establish is whether you can use the onboard Bluetooth to connect a wireless keyboard and mouse, or whether you will need to connect a wireless dongle to the (single) USB C socket, for which you will at least need a USB C to A converter cable. Starter kits are available, but this will increase the price considerably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Raspberry Pi 3](https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b/) is more expensive than the Zero W (you should be able to buy one in the US for $35), but it gives you more connection options and it is what I would choose for development purposes. You get 802.11n and Bluetooth 4.1, plus 4 x USB 2.0 ports (with USB A sockets, so no converter cables), and also 100Mb/s Ethernet. Once you have got your software working on the Raspberry Pi 3, it should run quite happily on a Raspberry Pi Zero W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Programming a Raspberry Pi using C/C++ is certainly possible, although most hobbyist use Python. The Raspberry Pi uses a version of Debian Linux called [Raspbian](https://www.raspbian.org/), so a full stack of programming languages is available. Other operating systems are also available for the Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [CHIP](https://getchip.com/pages/chip) is another possibility. For $9, you get onboard 802.11b/g/n, Bluetooth 4.0, and also 4GB of storage for software. It is not as well-established as the Raspberry Pi, and like the Raspberry Pi, you will need to add other stuff to get it going. However, you should be able to run it headerless with just a 5V PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The important thing to consider with any of these systems is what you will need to add to make them usable, both for development purposes and also in the field." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21299" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="850f5bc9-88a4-4d65-ae09-5b6067f3b04c" CreationDate="2017-03-12T17:16:21.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7030" RevisionGUID="d9172227-5c3d-413a-8eff-0d7ef47fd5f6" CreationDate="2017-03-12T22:02:41.543" UserId="5778" Text="I know I have seen it before, on older Tv's, was wondering what to look for to convert it to optical.[![mystery output][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jrk8I.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21304" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7030" RevisionGUID="d9172227-5c3d-413a-8eff-0d7ef47fd5f6" CreationDate="2017-03-12T22:02:41.543" UserId="5778" Text="What kind of output is this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21305" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7030" RevisionGUID="d9172227-5c3d-413a-8eff-0d7ef47fd5f6" CreationDate="2017-03-12T22:02:41.543" UserId="5778" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21311" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="d52f5fd4-2325-4079-a5e3-13da341f03d9" CreationDate="2017-03-13T04:07:20.470" UserId="5445" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Magic Leap](https://www.wareable.com/vr/pico-neo-cv-review)&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Pico [Neo CV](https://www.wareable.com/vr/pico-neo-cv-review)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7031" RevisionGUID="1616b1fc-cb53-4860-925e-164ea7129f1b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T06:00:31.487" UserId="4232" Text="It's hard to say without knowing what TV it is. Since it's an RCA socket, there's a good chance that it is simply coaxial [S/PDIF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S/PDIF), rather than optical S/PDIF (TOSLINK). If this is the case, you will need a coaxial to optical S/PDIF converter such as [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Digital-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B001U7GW68). I would ignore the 3-pin connector, especially if the user guide doesn't say what it's for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="dcfdd46c-aac5-449d-9ce1-104ba8bc8c3b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T06:09:16.713" UserId="5445" Text="I'm interested in buying the cheapest possible 3D printer that is user-friendly.  That is, I don't want to have to do any assembly.  If possible I just want to set it up, download the design, and click print, without having to know technical details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the three cheapest 3D printers I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [da Vinci Nano](https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/03/the-da-vinci-nano-is-a-full-fledged-3d-printer-for-230/), which is $230.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [Monoprice Select Mini](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;cp_id=10724&amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;p_id=15365&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2), which is $199.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Reprap](http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide), which is an open-source self-replicating 3D printer, and which is in a variety of models and prices, the cheapest usually being in the $150-$165 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the three, I think Reprap is probably the lest user friendly; it involves a kit that you have to assemble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, I want a product that's safe.  And ideally I'd like a product that works with iPhone rather than having to use a computer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21314" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="dcfdd46c-aac5-449d-9ce1-104ba8bc8c3b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T06:09:16.713" UserId="5445" Text="Cheapest user-friendly 3D printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21315" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="dcfdd46c-aac5-449d-9ce1-104ba8bc8c3b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T06:09:16.713" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;3d-printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="162ed7cb-8863-42d5-8982-c2d6e07bba7b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T16:38:28.710" UserId="5445" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm interested in buying the cheapest possible 3D printer that is user-friendly.  That is, I don't want to have to do any assembly.  If possible I just want to set it up, download the design, and click print, without having to know technical details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the three cheapest 3D printers I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [da Vinci Nano](https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/03/the-da-vinci-nano-is-a-full-fledged-3d-printer-for-230/), which is $230.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [Monoprice Select Mini](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;cp_id=10724&amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;p_id=15365&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2), which is $199.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Reprap](http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide), which is an open-source self-replicating 3D printer, and which is in a variety of models and prices, the cheapest usually being in the $150-$165 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the three, I think Reprap is probably the least user friendly; it involves a kit that you have to assemble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, I want a product that's safe.  And ideally I'd like a product that works with iPhone rather than having to use a computer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21326" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7021" RevisionGUID="de8e55be-0d29-4f5a-8525-463ba4c00358" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:13:59.770" UserId="57" Comment="slightly reworded to remove subjective apps question and make it clear the user wants reliability as a key metric in the recommendation" Text="I am looking for a Nas for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**my needs :** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- data Storage (Photos, Videos, Etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- Multimedia server (streaming, Music)&#xD;&#xA;- Surveillance station (communication with cameras)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for a couple of weeks and now i am hesitating between two brands : Synology and QNap and precisely two NAS : the [Synology DS216+II][1] and the [QNap TS251+][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The QNap Hardware looks more interesting : 2GB RAM upgradable to 8GB, Quad Core CPU, the Synology 1GB RAM not upgradable and dual core CPU.&#xD;&#xA;Both NAS have almost the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be my first Nas so i don't have any experience with none of the two brands. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product meets my needs and has better reliability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/DS216+II&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.qnap.com/en/product/model.php?II=195" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21327" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="487bf613-b2e2-4f89-b180-01abc5def18b" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:15:40.180" UserId="57" Comment="slight reword" Text="I'm interested in buying the cheapest possible 3D printer that is user-friendly.  That is, I don't want to have to do any assembly.  If possible I just want to set it up, download the design, and click print, without having to know technical details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the three cheapest 3D printers I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [da Vinci Nano](https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/03/the-da-vinci-nano-is-a-full-fledged-3d-printer-for-230/), which is $230.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [Monoprice Select Mini](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;cp_id=10724&amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;p_id=15365&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2), which is $199.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Reprap](http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide), which is an open-source self-replicating 3D printer, and which is in a variety of models and prices, the cheapest usually being in the $150-$165 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the three, I think Reprap is probably the least user friendly; it involves a kit that you have to assemble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product is recommended for me? I'm looking for one that is safe and works with an iPhone instead of requiring me to use a computer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21328" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="c523fd35-8df1-44f2-bd9e-5ffe2b8eba06" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:17:55.797" UserId="5445" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I'm interested in buying the cheapest possible 3D printer that is user-friendly.  That is, I don't want to have to do any assembly.  If possible I just want to set it up, download the design, and click print, without having to know technical details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the three cheapest 3D printers I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [da Vinci Nano](https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/03/the-da-vinci-nano-is-a-full-fledged-3d-printer-for-230/), which is $230.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [Monoprice Select Mini](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;cp_id=10724&amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;p_id=15365&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2), which is $199.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Reprap](http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide), which is an open-source self-replicating 3D printer, and which is in a variety of models and prices, the cheapest usually being in the $150-$165 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the three, I think Reprap is probably the least user friendly; it involves a kit that you have to assemble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product is recommended for me? I'm looking for one that is safe, and preferably one that works with an iPhone instead of requiring me to use a computer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7036" RevisionGUID="ec3dd9f3-5784-4758-9865-aa508181663c" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:20:47.290" UserId="5445" Text="Currently if you try to buy a &quot;wireless charging&quot; product to charge your phone, you'll mostly come across products based on the Wireless Power Consortium's [Qi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qi_(standard)).  These products involve placing your phone on an inductive charging pad, which is hardly what the average person thinks of when they hear the phrase &quot;wireless power.&quot;  It's only wireless in the sense that it does involve wires, not wireless in the sense of not requiring contact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, are there any long-distance wireless charging products, i.e. products which allow your phone to charge when it's in your hand and not in physical contact with the power transmitter?  So far I've come across two products which are releasing in the next year:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Energous' [Far Field WattUp Transmitter](http://energous.com/technology/transmitters/#farfield), which has a range of 15 feet and is releasing in the first half of 2018&#xD;&#xA;- [Motherbox](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-motherbox-true-wireless-charging-power-phone--2), which has a range of 20 inches and is releasing in September 2017&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But are there any products which are available right now, or at least coming sooner than those two products?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21330" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7036" RevisionGUID="ec3dd9f3-5784-4758-9865-aa508181663c" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:20:47.290" UserId="5445" Text="A long-distance wireless charging product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21331" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7036" RevisionGUID="ec3dd9f3-5784-4758-9865-aa508181663c" CreationDate="2017-03-13T19:20:47.290" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7037" RevisionGUID="484ed9b7-4ba6-437e-8bf9-7694cdc9445f" CreationDate="2017-03-13T21:49:17.147" UserId="5653" Text="In case it's of interest to anyone, I went with a Samsung Galaxy Tab A with S Pen, 16 GB Wifi Tablet 10.1 Inch, and I am quite happy with the choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21336" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7030" RevisionGUID="54f0ea3e-79be-4572-90af-30d20616c9fd" CreationDate="2017-03-13T22:45:08.003" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21338" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="59e34e8f-d3b7-4d66-85f1-cfb419d82c8b" CreationDate="2017-03-14T04:22:22.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7038" RevisionGUID="c8f98701-23d1-438e-9e08-73365728696e" CreationDate="2017-03-14T04:53:13.390" UserId="5783" Text="I am a camera man in my church and I want to add lyrics, bible verse input too to the projector, which is currently in first floor only. &#xD;&#xA;I want a suggestion for the equipments required for camera laptop and long range wiring.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current scenario:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;Camera and laptop output in HDMI but inputs for projector and it's long wiring are in AV wire. As of now HDMI camera connects to AV cable with converter and there's a AV splitter 1 in 4 out box. Splitting into 2, 2 for each floors, men &amp; women.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Changes required:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;Church has 5 floors. Gf 1f 2f 3f 4f Display to above 3 floors (If hdmi recommended for projector I can) camera's output to camera floor(1f) not required only laptop's required.&#xD;&#xA;A projector or TV (confused) for lyrics and verse(1f). Equipments for this setup from laptop to display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How I planned:&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have 2X4 (2 in 4 out with selector button), hdmi splitter for which &#xD;&#xA;2 male-to-male HDMi required connecting camera to splitter and laptop to splitter and output to hdmi to AV converter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7038" RevisionGUID="c8f98701-23d1-438e-9e08-73365728696e" CreationDate="2017-03-14T04:53:13.390" UserId="5783" Text="I want to project 2 input to 3 floors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7038" RevisionGUID="c8f98701-23d1-438e-9e08-73365728696e" CreationDate="2017-03-14T04:53:13.390" UserId="5783" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;projector&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7039" RevisionGUID="564bb529-dc51-4db5-b4d8-a339a4db71d0" CreationDate="2017-03-14T07:59:57.950" UserId="4065" Text="I'd suggest also looking for new or second hand Chelsio cards (T420-CR/T520-CR for optic OM2 LC SFP+ format, or other formats available, see their website) - they are quite frequent and cheap (well, as cheap as 10G goes) as used items on EBay, and very highly recommended - both pfSense and FreeNAS projects recommend them above Intel for 10GbE networks (as opposed to 1Gb where Intel is the standard). The -CR ensures they take the right transceiver, if you have an open hand on the transceiver format then Finisar SFP+ with OM2 LC-LC optic cable work trouble-free, also easily found and cheap on EBay or from networking suppliers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7040" RevisionGUID="f75ac78c-56f6-4f5b-ac8e-4f7010c6d886" CreationDate="2017-03-14T08:12:47.963" UserId="4065" Text="Things are moving fast in the 10G market. I'm looking for a cheap switch (almost any kind of switch, probably all 10G will be managed to some extent) with at least 4 and ideally 8 ports capable of taking either 10G OM2 LC connections or (more likely) taking SFP+ transceivers connecting OM2 LC cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connected servers all use Chelsio T420-CR's with Finisar SFP+ transceivers and OM2 cable, if that helps. I usually buy 2nd hand on EBay and I would ideally like an option that is either cheap new, or turns up used reasonably often on EBay. I'm in the EU so I'm limited to models sold in the EU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &quot;cheap&quot; is subjective let's say, whatever is available, the cheapest models out there, whether new or used." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21344" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7040" RevisionGUID="f75ac78c-56f6-4f5b-ac8e-4f7010c6d886" CreationDate="2017-03-14T08:12:47.963" UserId="4065" Text="Recommendation for switch with 4 or more 10GbE SFP+ ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21345" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7040" RevisionGUID="f75ac78c-56f6-4f5b-ac8e-4f7010c6d886" CreationDate="2017-03-14T08:12:47.963" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7041" RevisionGUID="5c95911f-0142-4f47-aa91-6f3b8bb751f9" CreationDate="2017-03-14T09:54:51.867" UserId="5784" Text="Both Nas can do the things you listed pretty well.&#xD;&#xA;And since they are at the same price, I would probably choose Qnap with better HW specs. More important thing is that TS-251+ has HDMI that makes it a great multimedia server, you can easily stream videos to TV.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21351" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="c895ab4d-3d45-475d-be02-c2cd60ffad56" CreationDate="2017-03-14T23:35:39.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7044" RevisionGUID="5756bf2d-a2b6-4b76-995f-ada706bba3b2" CreationDate="2017-03-15T02:11:17.900" UserId="4972" Text="I need to grab a device real quick and my two current options are:&#xA;&#xA;Macbook Pro 15&quot; early 2011&#xA;i7/8gb of RAM/ssd&#xA;&#xA;Macbook Pro 14&quot; late 2013 retina&#xA;i5/4gb of RAM/ssd&#xA;&#xA;The work I need to be doing is Photoshop and Sketch (moslty android design stuff)&#xA;&#xA;My question is will I suffer greatly if I do get the 2013 model? I know its 1333 RAM and that I can't upgrade it, but retina is nice and port layout suits me much better. Would photoshop/sketch/OS lag terribly with less RAM?&#xA;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7044" RevisionGUID="5756bf2d-a2b6-4b76-995f-ada706bba3b2" CreationDate="2017-03-15T02:11:17.900" UserId="4972" Text="Macbook Pro 15&quot; vs Macbook Pro 14&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21357" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7044" RevisionGUID="5756bf2d-a2b6-4b76-995f-ada706bba3b2" CreationDate="2017-03-15T02:11:17.900" UserId="4972" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21362" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="b6bd595d-64af-4834-a24a-465e627a0667" CreationDate="2017-03-15T05:15:26.273" UserId="5775" Comment="54" />
  <row Id="21366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7046" RevisionGUID="01ad5f09-c80c-4a7b-bd52-5be94ccfe33b" CreationDate="2017-03-15T10:37:47.647" UserId="5790" Text="It's basically a choice of High perf + upgradability VS portable new machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2013 macbook is not upgradable but is equipped with a hi-res screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2011 however is equipped with a quad core CPU (8 Threads) which will perform way better in photoshop than the ULV CPU of the 2013 MBP. Moreover, the ram is upgradable, and the screen resolution is not that low (1400x900 or 1680x1050).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally think that the 2011 MBP is a proper machine that will suit better your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7048" RevisionGUID="36326b84-2df6-4766-bf1b-dd09dd69b171" CreationDate="2017-03-15T16:11:21.263" UserId="5792" Text="It's simple enough to imagine. I have a phone dock that has no connector of its own, but a place to thread a cable into it. I have a USB C male-to-male cable that goes from the wall charger to this dock. In order to preserve the cable's interior, I want to attach to the end of it a right-angle-adapter so it can be pointed up and into the phone's charging port without bending the cable, itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, after many hours of searching between me and two other friends, we have come up dry. **Does such a thing exist, yet?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's worth noting we did find some &quot;right angle adapters&quot; that turned sideways, but this won't work for this setup; it needs to turn up or down, not left or right." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21369" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7048" RevisionGUID="36326b84-2df6-4766-bf1b-dd09dd69b171" CreationDate="2017-03-15T16:11:21.263" UserId="5792" Text="Male USB C to Female USB C right-angle adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21370" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7048" RevisionGUID="36326b84-2df6-4766-bf1b-dd09dd69b171" CreationDate="2017-03-15T16:11:21.263" UserId="5792" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21371" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7049" RevisionGUID="43e99783-8179-4fe3-b1ab-2119006057ca" CreationDate="2017-03-15T17:54:44.983" UserId="5793" Text="I am trying to pick ram for my laptop. I can see these types of ram on the site.&#xA;&#xA;    Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000&#xA;    Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000s&#xA;    Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000u&#xA;    Ddr4 2133 pc4 17066r&#xA;    Ddr4 2133 pc3 17066&#xA;&#xA;What does the latter at the end or lack of it mean? Which one should I choose? Also, about the 3 or 4 after pc. What is it supposed to mean? Is bigger number better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21372" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7049" RevisionGUID="43e99783-8179-4fe3-b1ab-2119006057ca" CreationDate="2017-03-15T17:54:44.983" UserId="5793" Text="What does the latter in the ram description mean?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21373" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7049" RevisionGUID="43e99783-8179-4fe3-b1ab-2119006057ca" CreationDate="2017-03-15T17:54:44.983" UserId="5793" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21374" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7050" RevisionGUID="dca2078f-17dd-4de2-8682-1a717ee47ba9" CreationDate="2017-03-15T19:03:31.207" UserId="1812" Text="Lenovo Yoga Tab 3, it also supports any pen technology. You can scribble and write on its screen. Good for reading, watching and writing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7053" RevisionGUID="b7e1f97d-0dc7-4ab9-9614-556b98eec6f8" CreationDate="2017-03-16T04:11:58.843" UserId="5217" Text="I'm looking for a laptop with an SSD that is pretty much focused on the essentials, which means I don't care if it comes with a good webcam, or if it has fingertip reader or touchscreen or any of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like it to have is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    SSD instead of HD&#xD;&#xA;    a decent amount of ram (at least 6GB)&#xD;&#xA;    weight less than 2 kg (4.4 lb)&#xD;&#xA;    at least a core i5 in terms of processing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm asking this here because, although I can find specs like the ones above in laptops like Samsung NP900, they always seem to have some of the things that I listed as unnecessary (NP900 for example has touchscreen), and I'd like to avoid &quot;wasting&quot; money on those features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not really working with a price limit because it really depends on the specs. If I buy a laptop that comes with a 164 GB SSD I'll be willing to pay less than I would for a 256 GB one and so on. Although it would be nice to keep it under $900 or so, if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I'm going to use for Linux. So companies like [system 76](https://system76.com/) are acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21384" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7053" RevisionGUID="b7e1f97d-0dc7-4ab9-9614-556b98eec6f8" CreationDate="2017-03-16T04:11:58.843" UserId="5217" Text="Robust laptop with SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21385" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7053" RevisionGUID="b7e1f97d-0dc7-4ab9-9614-556b98eec6f8" CreationDate="2017-03-16T04:11:58.843" UserId="5217" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21386" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ff83bec7-cb6b-428c-be1e-02f2b3544f1f" CreationDate="2017-03-16T05:12:50.903" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7054" RevisionGUID="5cd8f8ed-9417-48e3-a668-eed572e9522f" CreationDate="2017-03-16T08:52:36.937" UserId="5790" Text="It's points out the type of the RAM :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The &quot;R&quot; is for Registered which is usually used in servers.&#xD;&#xA;    The &quot;U&quot; stands for unbuffered non ECC.&#xD;&#xA;    The &quot;E&quot; stands for unbuffered ECC (not registred)&#xD;&#xA;    The &quot;S&quot; for SO-DIMM, a format of DIMM's used for laptops :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are the ones I know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21388" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7049" RevisionGUID="a0077261-f068-4b32-a5b0-c39fa0a30be5" CreationDate="2017-03-16T08:56:26.223" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7055" RevisionGUID="64cc9de3-c78d-44ed-aa75-4623c7e35cee" CreationDate="2017-03-16T11:04:13.117" UserId="5797" Text="@ Molten Ice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realise that I'm a little late to the party and You may have already solved this problem Yourself but thought I'd chip in with My two cents in case It would be of any use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router You are absolutely looking for it the Netduma R1, made by a small UK based startup and based upon a Mikrotik router board loaded with Netduma's own firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router uses a completely unique Anti flood algorithm that completely eliminates ping spikes due to other users on your network downloading , streaming etc and it absolutely works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router also allows bandwidth prioritisation per device , as well as including a unique patented Geo filter that allows You to specify the distance ( radius ) of servers you wish to play on from your home location when playing on dedicated servers as well as refusing users from other parts of the world if playing a peer 2 peer network game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also specify maximum pings and either blacklist players by gamertag / PSN ID or IP address or whitelist friends who maybe outside Your Geo filter / Ping filters but you still wish to game with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the netduma and can honestly say that whilst the promise sounds too good to be true this is one device that isn't actually Snake oil and does actually work as advertised, In fact I would go as far as to say that this is the single biggest improvement to my online gaming I have ever made it really is transformative when configured correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features on the Netduma are lightyears ahead of what is currently available on so called &quot;Gaming&quot; routers primarily because of the brilliant implementation of the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside to the router is that it only comes with 2.4 GHz WiFi , however this issue can be circumvented by adding in an addition WiFi access point and turning off the routers WiFi signal, In my case I paired the router with a Ruckus Wireless R710 AP and the results are superb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this Helps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jim&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7055" RevisionGUID="9b6f2d51-7215-459d-8714-8164cb3b4fa6" CreationDate="2017-03-16T11:13:44.890" UserId="5797" Comment="edited body" Text="@ Molten Ice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realise that I'm a little late to the party and You may have already solved this problem Yourself but thought I'd chip in with My two cents in case It would be of any use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router You are absolutely looking for is the Netduma R1, made by a small UK based startup and based upon a Mikrotik router board loaded with Netduma's own firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router uses a completely unique Anti flood algorithm that completely eliminates ping spikes due to other users on your network downloading , streaming etc and it absolutely works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router also allows bandwidth prioritisation per device , as well as including a unique patented Geo filter that allows You to specify the distance ( radius ) of servers you wish to play on from your home location when playing on dedicated servers as well as refusing users from other parts of the world if playing a peer 2 peer network game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also specify maximum pings and either blacklist players by gamertag / PSN ID or IP address or whitelist friends who maybe outside Your Geo filter / Ping filters but you still wish to game with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the netduma and can honestly say that whilst the promise sounds too good to be true this is one device that isn't actually Snake oil and does actually work as advertised, In fact I would go as far as to say that this is the single biggest improvement to my online gaming I have ever made it really is transformative when configured correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features on the Netduma are lightyears ahead of what is currently available on so called &quot;Gaming&quot; routers primarily because of the brilliant implementation of the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside to the router is that it only comes with 2.4 GHz WiFi , however this issue can be circumvented by adding in an addition WiFi access point and turning off the routers WiFi signal, In my case I paired the router with a Ruckus Wireless R710 AP and the results are superb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this Helps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jim&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21392" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7056" RevisionGUID="2304dc37-1dc9-441f-b71b-c35d6fa863da" CreationDate="2017-03-16T13:38:04.123" UserId="4504" Text="Alright, I found quite a few that meet your requirements, [This Acer Aspire Stands out to me.][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It seems to meet all your requirements, I filtered my search by SSD, 6th or 7th gen i5/i7 and either 8 or 16gb of ram.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;This laptop comes with &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5 7th Gen 7200U (2.50 GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB DDR4 Memory &#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce 940MX&#xD;&#xA; - 1920 x 1080 display&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;It doesn't have any crazy features like eyeball scanners or anything.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;If this one does not fit the bill, here is a list of all of my search results on newegg, [Link. ][2]   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I hope this helps! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315672&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-315-672-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;DEPA=0&amp;Order=BESTMATCH&amp;Description=laptop&amp;ignorear=0&amp;N=100006740%20600004804%20600136700%20600423158%20600423159%204814%20601283907%20601283906%20600003982%20601283905%20601283909%20600003988&amp;isNodeId=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7055" RevisionGUID="908a5690-b262-4ce8-9713-ef6b737fdc29" CreationDate="2017-03-16T14:13:12.100" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 50 characters in body" Text="I realise that I'm a little late to the party and you may have already solved this problem yourself but thought I'd chip in with my two cents in case it would be of any use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router you are absolutely looking for is the Netduma R1, made by a small UK based startup and based upon a Mikrotik router board loaded with Netduma's own firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This router uses a completely unique anti-flood algorithm that completely eliminates ping spikes due to other users on your network downloading, streaming etc and it absolutely works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router also allows bandwidth prioritisation per device, as well as including a unique patented geo-filter that allows you to specify the distance (radius) of servers you wish to play on from your home location when playing on dedicated servers as well as refusing users from other parts of the world if playing a peer-to-peer network game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also specify maximum pings and either blacklist players by gamertag/PSN ID or IP address or whitelist friends who maybe outside your geo-filter/ping filters but you still wish to game with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the Netduma and can honestly say that whilst the promise sounds too good to be true this is one device that isn't actually snake oil and does actually work as advertised, In fact I would go as far as to say that this is the single biggest improvement to my online gaming I have ever made it really is transformative when configured correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features on the Netduma are light years ahead of what is currently available on so called &quot;gaming&quot; routers primarily because of the brilliant implementation of the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside to the router is that it only comes with 2.4 GHz WiFi , however this issue can be circumvented by adding in an addition WiFi access point and turning off the routers WiFi signal, in my case I paired the router with a Ruckus Wireless R710 AP and the results are superb." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21397" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="8d61bc9e-5ea7-4575-bb20-e940b5ccecfc" CreationDate="2017-03-16T16:23:40.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1890" RevisionGUID="4d4236ce-a21f-4eba-bd7c-7bc3c6a17519" CreationDate="2017-03-16T16:43:44.237" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for some hardware that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- analyzes the quality of I²C signals&#xD;&#xA; - voltage&#xD;&#xA; - data signal quality (quality of the rectangle)&#xD;&#xA; - clock signal quality (quality of the rectangle)&#xD;&#xA; - potentially other things as defined by I²C (I'm not too familiar yet)&#xD;&#xA;- shows the data transmitted on the I²C bus&#xD;&#xA; - bus monitor (just the hex values)&#xD;&#xA; - data extractor (interpret the hex values, e.g. separate address from data)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This could be 2 separate tools or an all-in-one tool. For both, it would be great if there's a connection to the PC (e.g. via USB) so that I can easily generate test report documents, store the data or forward to someone else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no budget restriction at the moment, since I have to request the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Power users/moderators: are there better tags? I could not find [tag:I2C], [tag:bus-monitor], [tag:protocol-analyzer], [tag:sniffer] - but I still think this question is [on topic](https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware) since it is an electronic item, connects to a PC and can perform meaningful tasks.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="2f12c8a3-df06-45bd-8817-17971f49c36d" CreationDate="2017-03-16T16:43:44.237" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xD;&#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xD;&#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which is held by an individual *(not a company)*.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xD;&#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Update :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[So it’s very unlikely such device exists](https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/q/436/1808).**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5523" RevisionGUID="040d7a9e-2352-4e62-98c1-f34d89f56583" CreationDate="2017-03-16T16:43:44.237" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://meta.hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/" Text="I believe this is on-topic as per https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/1 (it's a bigger electronic part). I'm up for debate on it, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Nexus 5X, and I just broke the screen. This makes me unhappy, and it's not usable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard that the LED screen is fused to the glass, which might make this harder. That said, I'd still like to attempt a repair before buying a whole new phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Budget of up to $50, but I'm flexible on that. Less is better.&#xD;&#xA; - OEM is best; I'd rather not have some kind of knockoff. I'm flexible on that too.&#xD;&#xA; - Easier to install is ideal, but I'm not afraid of using a screwdriver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the best replacement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="c1f7efc9-d131-43a6-b37c-0827c884160a" CreationDate="2017-03-17T01:33:25.387" UserId="5801" Text="I am a long running user of the cherry mx red key switch, and I love it! I have used both blue and brown and didn't like either of them. I use my keyboard for intense gaming sessions but also for typing, as I am always typing large documents for school. I have a high typing speed of almost 100 WPM so the cherry mx reds don't feel like they are restricting me from typing at my ability, but rather aiding it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the look of the razer blackwidow V2 keyboard but they use their own key switches. I was wondering what razer key switch would most closely compare to the cherry mx red, and any major similarity's and differences, or pros and cons of the razer key switch over the cherry mx red for my purpose (Gaming/Typing 50/50)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21406" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="c1f7efc9-d131-43a6-b37c-0827c884160a" CreationDate="2017-03-17T01:33:25.387" UserId="5801" Text="How do the razer key switches compare to cherry mx?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21407" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="c1f7efc9-d131-43a6-b37c-0827c884160a" CreationDate="2017-03-17T01:33:25.387" UserId="5801" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21408" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="27401620-f25a-43eb-b76a-05e4ef7cde05" CreationDate="2017-03-17T02:44:35.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21416" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="138" RevisionGUID="ab6117f8-588e-4754-83c7-32cddd7e271d" CreationDate="2017-03-17T10:46:12.617" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://security.stackexchange.com/ with https://security.stackexchange.com/" Text="Whether the firmware has been compromised is a valid concern — [it happens](https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/79747/besides-mbr-bios-is-it-possible-for-a-rootkit-to-stay-persistant-after-a-form/79762#79762) ([it's been done for show](http://spritesmods.com/?art=hddhack), and it's rather rare but it has been found in the wild).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a bigger concern is whether the firmware has been programmed correctly. [Many SSD firmwares don't implement secure erase properly](https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/41676/ata-security-erase-on-ssd/41678#41678). Should you trust them to implement crypto properly? I haven't seen a reliable study on the topic, but I've heard (private rumors in some security communities) that some “self-encrypting drives” are actually mere password-protected drives, with no encryption if you just bypass the controller. As a consumer, there's absolutely no way to know whether a particular device does it right¹.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The upshot is that I wouldn't rely on the encryption capabilities of a storage device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much point in doing encryption on the drive itself rather than in the CPU anyway. This isn't the 1990s, most CPUs have plenty of spare cycles, of which encryption will only cost a little. Major operating systems come with native encryption: Bitlocker under Windows, dm-crypt under Linux, etc. If you have one of the cheaper editions of Windows that don't have full-disk encryption, or if you need an encrypted removable drive that's portable between operating systems, [use one of the TrueCrypt successors](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TrueCrypt#Alternatives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¹ &lt;sub&gt; Finding a way to attack a particular model can have a cost in the $10k–100k range, so it's not something you can do casually — but once the attack is found, carrying it out on a particular drive has an incremental cost that can be in the $10–100 range, or &amp;lt;$1 if it's a pure software attack on a buggy firmware. &lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2262" RevisionGUID="1f97e433-f8c3-47c5-9db7-63fa91fac7b7" CreationDate="2017-03-17T10:46:12.617" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://security.stackexchange.com/ with https://security.stackexchange.com/" Text="Have you considered biometric USB drives, such as the Imation Defender F200 Biometric, it may be a little slow, but supports passwords, fingerprint scanning, or both. There is a review of it: [Imation Defender F200 Biometric Flash Drive Review: Secure but Slow][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or there is the Iron Key Personal D200, which does not specifically have a password enabled write protect, but it is pretty damn secure, nevertheless. Here is a, somewhat out of date, review: [IronKey Personal D200][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an aside, have you seen [George Bailey][3]'s [answer][4] to [Is there such thing as a password enforced write protected flash drive?][5]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; (The write protect switch on the model drive I have used is discrete like a reset button, you need to stick a pen or something into the slot in order to reach the switch and flip it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The best solution I have so far - that still satisfies the requirement that no malicious files be downloaded by the user - is to get a flash drive that has a physical write protect switch, and apply a coating that will harden. (similar coats are on the market for covering tool handles, such as wrenches)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If the hacker has physical access, I see this setup as having 2 possible outcomes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - the tamper would be evident to the user (broken seal), or&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - after tamper is complete, a new coat of similar color would have to be applied by the hacker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again while not password protected, it does get around the issue that you mention in your comment *hardware switch is not good because everybody could turn it on or off*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/254757/imation_defender_f200_biometric_flash_drive_review_secure_but_slow.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://secure-usb-drive-review.toptenreviews.com/ironkey-personal-d200-review.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://security.stackexchange.com/users/764/george-bailey&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive#answer-15635&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21419" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7061" RevisionGUID="3c203091-0958-4401-a81c-99a24a980d67" CreationDate="2017-03-17T13:00:07.957" UserId="5805" Text="SO, I really love my Moto X 2, and it still work very well, but it's starting to get a little old... the battery doesn't last as much as it did, and the 2GB of RAM is starting to get a little cramped. Also, as usual for Android phones, the software stopped being updated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I love about it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Always-on voice recognition (even with the screen turned off);&#xD;&#xA; - The sensors in front that allow to turn the phone on using the Force;&#xD;&#xA; - The light Android skin (no TouchWiz for me, thank you);&#xD;&#xA; - The AMOLED screen;&#xD;&#xA; - The small (relative to the current trend of 42&quot; phones) size of 5.2&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any current phone that have those features, but with larger RAM, preferably longer battery life, and size equal or smaller? If it can cost less than $400, even better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21420" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7061" RevisionGUID="3c203091-0958-4401-a81c-99a24a980d67" CreationDate="2017-03-17T13:00:07.957" UserId="5805" Text="Replacement for Moto X 2nd gen (2014)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21421" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7061" RevisionGUID="3c203091-0958-4401-a81c-99a24a980d67" CreationDate="2017-03-17T13:00:07.957" UserId="5805" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7062" RevisionGUID="b15f98bd-78ff-43af-a53c-bbbe3655ac85" CreationDate="2017-03-17T14:32:20.307" UserId="5562" Text="I'm actually using the Razer Blackwidow 2016 Stealth Edition and I realy love it , it's realy smooth and reactive. Though my girlfriend likes it less than I do because she can't sleep when I play or type things because like a lot of mechanical keybords it makes some noise. But there's the other blackpoint I think and it realy deosn't bother me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the switches I found this about the red cherry :&#xD;&#xA;[![cherry mx red][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And for the razer switches I found this :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![razer switch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i'd say the orange razer switch is the closest thing to what you're searching for.&#xD;&#xA;I think it's a matter of taste more than anything so you'd better find someone who's got one and try it , or go to a store selling it and search for an &quot;exposure model&quot; and here again : try it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqjvB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjPcA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7068" RevisionGUID="224712c5-7347-4321-b75f-ee828385af37" CreationDate="2017-03-18T02:17:46.980" UserId="5812" Text="what is the best GPU/Card to use for my work-only rig. I do mainly dev work, Webdesign, massive multitasking with sometimes over 50 browser tabs open on each monitor. I don't game on this PC at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current Hardware: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: i5 4690 @ 3.50GHz&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX 750Ti&#xD;&#xA;32 GB RAM &#xD;&#xA;Total of 3 Screens: 2 WQHD screens with a res of 2560 x 1440 &#xD;&#xA;1 FHD Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screens are connected with HDMI and 2 with DVI since the Card does not have DP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My questions: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a good way to drive the displays for the application described above?&#xD;&#xA;When i am working with multiple browser tabs and applications I sometimes notice a lag when i am dragging chrome tabs from one screen to another. Also when i open a heavy page and scroll down while it is loading it laggs while scolling. When switiching to resolutions in the 1024 x 786 segment the lag doesn't occur so it seems like the GPU is having a hard time? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the GPU impact the performance at all or would an integrated GPU do the job with the same performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would I benifit from upgrading the GPU or is it unrelated. Why do I get this slowdown with the system set up like this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21443" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7068" RevisionGUID="224712c5-7347-4321-b75f-ee828385af37" CreationDate="2017-03-18T02:17:46.980" UserId="5812" Text="Multi monitor frustration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21444" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7068" RevisionGUID="224712c5-7347-4321-b75f-ee828385af37" CreationDate="2017-03-18T02:17:46.980" UserId="5812" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21457" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7068" RevisionGUID="e0ee4f09-6590-4138-8316-5db29e820bab" CreationDate="2017-03-18T12:29:22.243" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 710 characters in body" Text="what is the best GPU/Card to use for my work-only rig. I do mainly dev work, Webdesign, massive multitasking with sometimes over 50 browser tabs open on each monitor. I don't game on this PC at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current Hardware: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i5 4690 @ 3.50GHz&#xD;&#xA; - Geforce GTX 750Ti&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB RAM &#xD;&#xA; - Total of 3 Screens: 2 WQHD screens with a res of 2560 x 1440 &#xD;&#xA; - 1 FHD Screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screens are connected with HDMI and 2 with DVI since the Card does not have DP." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21461" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="27252e2a-e7ba-4c82-bb33-60c8d083db9e" CreationDate="2017-03-18T16:48:58.433" UserId="5445" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Magic Leap](http://magicleap.com)&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Pico [Neo CV](https://www.wareable.com/vr/pico-neo-cv-review)&#xD;&#xA;- [Univrses](http://univrses.com/site/ar-vr.php)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21466" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="e31864e3-b793-4d76-8ecd-e2895f6f3a9f" CreationDate="2017-03-18T23:29:37.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21467" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="9c54490f-f8af-465f-90f7-afe097335cb2" CreationDate="2017-03-19T04:30:48.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="b9550a69-0953-4503-98d4-dca8b4383587" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:29:17.397" UserId="5817" Text="I have two monitors: Acer GN246HL. Each has a D-Sub, DVI and HDMI. My current video card (GTX 770) has two DVI slots, so this is not a problem I can get both at running 1080p 144hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, newer video cards have one or zero DVI slots. They mostly have DisplayPort ports, which my monitors don't support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for an adapter that would allow me to use my monitors with newer video cards, to output at 1920x1080@144hz (Exactly like I am doing right now with the 770GTX and two DVI connections). I'm thinking DVI-D to DisplayPort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there such adapters, and are they reliable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="b9550a69-0953-4503-98d4-dca8b4383587" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:29:17.397" UserId="5817" Text="DVI to DisplayPort, at 1080p@144hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="b9550a69-0953-4503-98d4-dca8b4383587" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:29:17.397" UserId="5817" Text="&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="8393ddab-4339-4c22-bb41-3fcb10280c86" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:42:58.667" UserId="5814" Text="My current device is [Moto X (2013)][1], the dimensions are perfect. I am surprised to see that Android [does not many options in that dimension][2], I was unable to find any of the phones in the local market. Know of any device? I want a device close to pure android. Since moto x was launched by Google the OS was nice. I was sure that the pixel line will have a device of the dimension as Apple refreshed iPhone 5s with SE. I am looking for a device from Google or HTC or LG.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_x-5601.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nYearMin=2016&amp;nHeightMin=120&amp;nHeightMax=130&amp;nRamMin=2000&amp;sAvailabilities=1,2,5&amp;sOSes=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21472" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="8393ddab-4339-4c22-bb41-3fcb10280c86" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:42:58.667" UserId="5814" Text="Any android device with 2gb+ RAM in the size of Iphone 5S / SE?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21473" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="8393ddab-4339-4c22-bb41-3fcb10280c86" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:42:58.667" UserId="5814" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21488" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9a045863-a7b8-474f-a4f1-0f6ef4f67664" CreationDate="2017-03-19T13:58:16.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21490" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="7c3b8560-d6f0-460f-96cd-8c42228d01b4" CreationDate="2017-03-19T19:03:46.617" UserId="5822" Text="Are there any recommendations for a single board pc (similar to a raspberry pi, for example) which has two HDMI ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trying to catch HDMI input, modify it, and push it to a screen; any thoughts / tips greatly appreciated. My experience in this space is nil, but have a high level understanding of what the build may require" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21491" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="7c3b8560-d6f0-460f-96cd-8c42228d01b4" CreationDate="2017-03-19T19:03:46.617" UserId="5822" Text="single board pc double hdmi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21492" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="7c3b8560-d6f0-460f-96cd-8c42228d01b4" CreationDate="2017-03-19T19:03:46.617" UserId="5822" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7079" RevisionGUID="64e5dfd5-9391-40c7-9c40-008a57cdc048" CreationDate="2017-03-19T19:23:46.667" UserId="4232" Text="You should check out the [Raspberry Pi HDMI Input Board](http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/raspberry-pi-hdmi-input-allows-hd-recording-video-14-03-2014/). This is not really a recommendation, since I haven't used it, and there may well be better options. However, using an add-on card may well be the only solution whatever single-board computer you look at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="488df7ef-30e3-48ba-a054-df0601f6ccaa" CreationDate="2017-03-20T00:20:11.453" UserId="4933" Text="The following power supply units on Ebuyer are described as being &quot;fully wired&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebuyer.com/566862-ace-black-120mm-fan-550w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psuace550br&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebuyer.com/159705-cit-450w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psucit450ub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebuyer.com/151296-powercool-850w-fully-wired-80-power-supply-pc850aubab&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebuyer.com/158481-cit-dual-rail-480w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-480ub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching Google for what exactly this means brings up results about modularity, but [this PSU here](http://www.ebuyer.com/621475-builder-500w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psu500builderblack) is described as being &quot;fully wired&quot; while also not being modular at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I can think of that &quot;fully wired&quot; would be described would be a PSU that comes wired, but to me that seems about as odd a selling point as a car that comes with wheels. :-) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**When buying a PSU, what exactly does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean?**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="488df7ef-30e3-48ba-a054-df0601f6ccaa" CreationDate="2017-03-20T00:20:11.453" UserId="4933" Text="What does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean when selecting a PSU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="488df7ef-30e3-48ba-a054-df0601f6ccaa" CreationDate="2017-03-20T00:20:11.453" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21498" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="3834e316-79f8-4642-9212-4104a4e05eca" CreationDate="2017-03-20T01:06:18.290" UserId="4933" Comment="Added product titles to links" Text="What does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean when buying a PSU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="3834e316-79f8-4642-9212-4104a4e05eca" CreationDate="2017-03-20T01:06:18.290" UserId="4933" Comment="Added product titles to links" Text="The following power supply units on Ebuyer are described as being &quot;fully wired&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Ace Black 120mm Fan 550W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/566862-ace-black-120mm-fan-550w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psuace550br)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT 450W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/159705-cit-450w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psucit450ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[PowerCool 850W Fully Wired 80+ Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/151296-powercool-850w-fully-wired-80-power-supply-pc850aubab)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT Dual Rail 480W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/158481-cit-dual-rail-480w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-480ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching Google for what exactly this means brings up results about modularity, but [this PSU here](http://www.ebuyer.com/621475-builder-500w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psu500builderblack) is described as being &quot;fully wired&quot; while also not being modular at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I can think of that &quot;fully wired&quot; would be described would be a PSU that comes wired, but to me that seems about as odd a selling point as a car that comes with wheels. :-) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**When buying a PSU, what exactly does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean?**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7082" RevisionGUID="5d696fae-9b9d-41e2-86f8-df6924b03779" CreationDate="2017-03-20T04:03:25.383" UserId="5824" Text="I would like to know if an HP Elitebook 820 G1 Intel(R) Core(TM)i7-4600U @ 2.10GHz 2.70GHz , 2 cores and 4 threats , 4 Mo Cache , 8GB of RAM and 256 Go SSD is capable of running more than two virtual machines simultaneously.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21505" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7082" RevisionGUID="5d696fae-9b9d-41e2-86f8-df6924b03779" CreationDate="2017-03-20T04:03:25.383" UserId="5824" Text="i7-4600U and virtual machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21506" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7082" RevisionGUID="5d696fae-9b9d-41e2-86f8-df6924b03779" CreationDate="2017-03-20T04:03:25.383" UserId="5824" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="54" RevisionGUID="4a8dd13c-95c6-4cb9-82bf-ccabda9f1075" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:04:45.393" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="[What is hyper-threading and how does it work?](https://superuser.com/q/122536/116475) does a good job at explaining what hyper-threading is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hyper-threading is where your processor pretends to have 2 physical&#xD;&#xA;&gt; processor cores, yet only has 1 and some extra junk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The point of hyperthreading is that many times when you are executing&#xD;&#xA;&gt; code in the processor, there are parts of the processor that is idle.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; By including an extra set of CPU registers, the processor can act like&#xD;&#xA;&gt; it has two cores and thus use all parts of the processor in parallel.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the 2 cores both need to use one component of the processor, then&#xD;&#xA;&gt; one core ends up waiting of course. This is why it can not replace&#xD;&#xA;&gt; dual-core and such processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [article](http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/hyperthreading-technology-explained/) presents a benchmark on the benefits of hyper-threading:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As the performance boost figure of only up to 30% indicates, Hyper-Threading is not the same as doubling the number of cores on a processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another benchmark can be found [here](http://ixbtlabs.com/articles3/cpu/archspeed-2009-4-p1.html):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wikipedia has a section on [hyper-threading's performance](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyper-threading#Performance_claims). Basically the results aren't clear-cut.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all, it is probably useful if you plan to have more threads running than the number of physical cores, which is likely to be the case, but the performance gains won't be miraculous though and in some cases null.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/i9bOr.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/LfrcB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zNwyo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/egyed.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/CgaNv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/zlGdL.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21512" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="78" RevisionGUID="1683168b-49f2-4103-8783-c2509f019bc8" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:04:45.393" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I'll start with VGA, which is, in my opinion, a &quot;standard&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VGA** is an analog signal. This basically means that the quality will not be as great as cables that make use of digital signals, especially at high resolutions. The problem with analog is that noise often distorts the signal and the quality ends up not being as good. So in terms of quality, go for the other three.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Digital signals do not have this problem because they are noise tolerant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DVI** is a digital signal that has a few different connecter types and two link modes:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-A has an analog signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D has only a digital signal.&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-I has both, making it especially useful as it can be used with VGA-DVI adaptors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most adaptors are single link and support a resolution up to 1920x1200 whereas dual link supports up to 2560x1600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDMI** is the standard for HDTVs. It is also a digital signal and is therefore fully compatible with DVI-D and DVI-I. The benifit of HDMI over DVI is that is has the ability to carry audio as well as the video signal although it does require that your monitor has built in speakers. Recently, HDMI 2.0 was released and gives HDMI the ability to better deal with 4K (Ultra HD) displays at a higher frequency and FPS. If your display or TV has HDMI 1.4, you’ll be limited to 3,820×2160, 4K, at 30 Hz. However, if you’ve got a video card and 4K display with HDMI 2.0, you’ll be able to get 4K at 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's not much difference between between HDMI 1.4 and DVI besides the audio in the HDMI, which can be a real benefit depending on your setup and that colour ranges for HDMI go beyond the RGB spectrum which DVI is limited to. The only benefit of the DVI is the physical screws that support the DVI cable and help prevent port damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DisplayPort** is the newest of the lot and is aimed towards higher end monitors - newer and high-end monitors tend to have DisplayPort. Its designed to deal with 4K at higher FPS and Hz. DisplayPort is capable of 3840×2160, 8K at 60Hz or 4k at 120Hz!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort looks like it's the way of the future, especially if you want 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally it depends on your setup (monitor and graphics card), what you can and can't use but for the future of gaming DisplayPort looks the way to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;References and more info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/video-cables-explained-difference-vga-dvi-hdmi-ports/&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - https://superuser.com/questions/15884/hdmi-vs-component-vs-vga-vs-dvi-vs-displayport  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.avadirect.com/blog/displayport-vs-hdmi-vs-dvi-vs-vga/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21514" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2049" RevisionGUID="8faf3441-378e-4fcf-851a-c843aa358690" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:04:45.393" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard to replace my old one that's been giving me problems lately (See [this thread][10]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PC is used for heavy gaming (All new games running max settings; GTA V, Fallout 4, etc). It's used for a fair amount of video/photo editing as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - AM3+ CPU socket&#xD;&#xA; - Budget is around $150USD&#xA; - USB 3.0 header support&#xD;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports on the back (USB2.0 is fine)&#xD;&#xA; - Built in 5.1 surround sound support (No additional sound card needed)&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi, bluetooth, integrated video and PS/2 are *not* required.&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to work with the rest of my components, obviously (See below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD - [Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler - [Cooler Master V8 GTS][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCU - [SeaSonic X Series X-850 (SS-850KM3 Active PFC F3) 850W ATX12V][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD - [Crucial MX100 2.5&quot; 256GB SATA III MLC Internal][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM - [G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - [AMD FX-9590 Vishera 8-Core 4.7 GHz Socket AM3+ 220W - Black Edition][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU - [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tower - [Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition][9] &#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**Update:**&#xA;&#xA;I raised my budget to 150usd,  that would probably be a more logical budget for a decent board. I'm also flexible on the price,  if it's more expensive than my budget,  but is an overall better choice,  then go ahead and suggest it. As long as it's not way out of the budget. &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8UW3GP4298&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6232GM5508&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231473&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7BB3T72010&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487079&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://superuser.com/questions/1027376/custom-built-computer-wont-turn-on-anymore" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21515" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2708" RevisionGUID="24325229-649b-4f13-9068-dca6413372c1" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:04:45.393" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Personally I think that it is more technical support question but  I will say few words about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Explanation:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Super user explanation what OC memory in MOBO description means.][1]&#xD;&#xA; - What does it mean for you ? It means that your motherboard will support memory up to 3600 MHz in dual-channel and up to 3866 MHz in single-channel. You have to load RAM [XMP profile][2] and it will work with desired frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My proposition:**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; [ASRock Z170 Extreme7+][3] is very good motherboard but only if you want overclock your new setup if not [Z170 chipset][4] will give you only support for higher frequency RAM what won't give proportional efficiency to the price paid for it. So if you won't overclock you should look for motherboards on [H110][5] or [B150][6] chipset and 2133 Mhz RAM with lowest CL.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B150 recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [B150M MORTAR][7] - [$90 on newegg.com][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;H110 recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [H110M PRO-VD][9] - [$56 on newegg.com][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/a/560832/564989&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/extreme-memory-profile-xmp.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90591&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ark.intel.com/products/90592/Intel-GL82B150-PCH&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://msi.com/Motherboard/B150M-MORTAR.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130890&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-overview&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="97b9a51e-0fb8-462a-ab30-9c3d4bd97cea" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Sure it would. Since you're running multiple processes and your main goal is to multitask better, it would really improve performance and smoothness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what you're currently using, 12 GB should suffice but it seems you're limiting yourself because of your 8 GB of ram so go ahead and get 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also if you're using Linux it would be better to [set your `swapness`](http://askubuntu.com/a/103916/325685) down to *zero*. If you're using Windows you can have a look on [how to control your ram and swap usage](https://superuser.com/q/237137/463961). That way you can benefit more from your ram." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="165" RevisionGUID="0250b745-7f21-483f-a1f2-811291218049" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Like the [CODE keyboard][1], I will recommend the [WASD Keyboards][2] 87-key mechanical keyboard. The base cost is $145 USD, but it can get up to $185. Let's look at your requirements one by one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must play nice with my 2012 MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This uses a standard USB connector with no special drivers. This will work with your MacBook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must not slide around too easily, that's my pet peeve with keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It weighs 2 pounds and has rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from moving around. Even with the plastic feet up at the back to tilt the keyboard, it won't move around on its own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be affordable (ideally &lt; $200, but much less would be better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on your choices, which I will get to at the bottom, this keyboard will run anywhere from $140-185 USD. It is a more expensive keyboard, but you do get what you pay for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Format should be US/QWERTY. Bonus points if I can rip the keycaps off and turn it onto Dvorak, if I ever get the ambition up to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this is a mechanical keyboard, you can pop off the keys if you wish. However, the keys are only the same if they are on the same row. When you order, you get the opportunity to customize the key-caps. You can have both the QWERTY lettering and Dvorak lettering on the same keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are hardware switches on the keyboard that allow you to switch the layout from QWERTY to Dvorak. You just have to unplug the keyboard to do it (more about this below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ideally**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth, I don't have very many spare USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does not come with Bluetooth. You are going to have to use a USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Have an option to have an OS X-style 'command' key symbol instead of the nasty Windows key symbol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They offer the Windows, Mac, and Linux symbols for the keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not sound like hail hitting a tin roof, that makes me cringe when I type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are quieter switches available for this keyboard. Stay away from the green and blue switches. If you need help picking switches for your keyboard, check out [Jeff Atwood's answer][3] on Super&amp;nbsp;User.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Not needed**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric pad: I hate those things and never use them anyway&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard does not have a numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Portability: I don't have any issues using my MacBook keyboard when traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keyboard could be taken with you, but it might be best to leave it at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Pros**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Hardware switches (on the underside of the keyboard) allow you to further customize your keyboard. Check out [their documentation][4] to see exactly what they can do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can choose how this keyboard will look and feel by changing the key-caps (the colors and lettering for each key), the type of switch, and add in O-rings to reduce noise from the keyboard. O-rings are like tiny rubber bands that go on the bottom of each key to reduce the noise of the key-cap bottoming out (known as the &quot;clack&quot;). O-rings cost $15 and $10 extra to have them install them for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The USB cable is removable. It is a standard USB-A to USB-micro cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can completely change out the keys if you ever grow tired of the way it looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other Cons**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Some [Cherry MX][5] switches are more expensive than the others. Browns add $5 to the cost, Reds add $10, and Clears and Green add $15.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Unlike the CODE Keyboard, this is not back-lit. This can make it more difficult to type on in the dark.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard and the key-caps are quite thick. From the bottom of the keyboard to the top of the first row keys is about one inch. This can take some time to get used to if you are coming from a thin or laptop keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.codekeyboards.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-87-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://superuser.com/a/366797/317198&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/v2-user-guide.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_(keyboards)#Cherry_switches_in_consumer_keyboards_.28circa_mid_2016.29&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="292" RevisionGUID="764a20b0-c0ff-4c1c-859b-343e7d35406c" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I recently bought the [Logitech G930](http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g930-7-1-wireless-gaming-headset) ($100) headset for gaming and music and I can honestly say it's the best headset I've ever used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Circumaural and fits to ear shape (it isn't circular like most headsets &amp;mdash; something that causes a lot of discomfort after an hour or two of wearing it)&#xD;&#xA;- Dolby 7.1 surround sound that sounds almost just as good as sitting in a room surrounded by a 7.1 setup&#xD;&#xA;- USB connection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys  and volume directly on the headset that can be set to do anything you could ever want (to interact with Windows further than is allowed, see [this SU post](https://superuser.com/a/437959/447245))&#xD;&#xA;- Extremely comfortable ear pads and headband &amp;mdash; the headband is a semi-memory foam and the ear pads are just foam&#xD;&#xA;- Mic that folds up and down &amp;mdash; auto-mutes when folded up (one of the best features IMO)&#xD;&#xA;- The companion Logitech software lets you adjust individual EQ frequencies, channel volumes, and talkback volume&#xD;&#xA;- And of course an excellent sound range: 20Hz-20KHz and 30 Ohms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The G930 has a base that connects to the PC via USB, and to charge the headset, a micro USB comes out of the base (a decent length). For the headset to work, a USB wireless receiver can be plugged into the top of the base or directly into the computer. It's a strange setup but it works. Check pictures for more detail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connection thing is greatly outweighed by the good features of this headset. You won't notice it after you set it up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21522" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="490" RevisionGUID="fa958e3d-5b02-4a6d-8d70-104227c8a22e" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="An Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor has a D-Sub input. In this case you just need a VGA-VGA cable. VGA supports 1080p as it is - you won't notice any difference since the cable is of good quality.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;1. As far as I know it it can only recognize either VGA or HDMI. [Check this topic][2]. The best thing you can do is to ask on HP forums about drivers - it would be better to do it before making a purchase. Check this part from the linked topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I discovered that if you run the install of the Intel HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA;&gt; driver version 10.18.010.3464 it will initialize both the VGA and the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI and they will both work until you reboot your machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. VGA supports 1080p. The quality of the signal begins to drop off above 1920x1080. Is it worth to buy a good quality cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Similar question on [SuperUser][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. The adapter may be unnecessary if you find appropriate drivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Uwe26.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware/Two-Displays-on-Probook-4540s/td-p/5078189&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://superuser.com/questions/782227/probook-4540s-monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1289" RevisionGUID="c5b2e154-5d64-4ed7-b949-00b3d0c9f9ce" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="**What routers support per-device Internet bandwidth usage monitoring out of the box?** (I'd prefer not to go down the route of hacking in an aftermarket firmware if I don't have to; [\[1\]][1],[\[2\]][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - We have a monthly quota that we're constantly in danger of exceeding, and it's very expensive when to go over quota. &#xD;&#xA; - There are 4 people in the house and three times as many devices, plus guests and their devices. We need to know which people and which devices are causing the most consumption, so we can then determine what to do about it. (Exile offending devices or the offending behaviour-on-device, and/or more equitably split the cost.)&#xD;&#xA; - Router should be both LAN (4 ports sufficient) and WiFi. The&#xD;&#xA;   monitoring feature needs to distinguish local traffic from external&#xD;&#xA;   (internet) traffic. (I'm curious about local traffic stats, but don't&#xD;&#xA;   need to monitor it. It's the external traffic that costs.)&#xD;&#xA; - The existing router this will replace typically has 3 wired clients&#xD;&#xA;   and up to 9 wifi clients. The devices run everything from Windows to&#xD;&#xA;   Linux to iOS to Android to I-don't-know (DS,wii).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**A router feature I would like**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Asus AC3200 appears to have a very nice [Traffic Analyzer Statistics][3] page that shows exactly how many mega/gigabytes each device has used. However, in my experience the RT-N56U [reported stats don't match ISP stats][4].  This makes me leary, and the $300 USD MSRP is not attractive for our small household.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus AC3200 per device usage screenshot][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/243978/can-dd-wrt-or-tomato-keep-track-of-gb-usage-per-billing-period-per-device&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/questions/781636/how-do-i-check-the-internet-usage-of-a-particular-device-in-my-room&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ec2-54-202-251-7.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/TrafficAnalyzer_Statistic.asp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://superuser.com/questions/1000971/asus-router-reports-different-bandwidth-usage-from-isp&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/17VjG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1362" RevisionGUID="b8c842a7-3266-4fe9-847f-819793cc8469" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Your computer's RAM cannot be significantly upgraded.  [Crucial's memory finder reports][1], and [HP's support page agrees][2] that your computer is limited to 4 GB of RAM.  Further, you appear to be running a 32-bit version of Windows, which for technical reasons is limited to about 3.25 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to do this, I recommend figuring out which of the two sticks of memory in your computer is the 1 GB one, and replacing it with a [Crucial 2 GB PC2-6400][3] stick for $27.  I don't have experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Crucial memory upgrades for older computers, and importantly, they guarantee compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you upgrade, you'll also want to switch to a 64-bit operating system to get access to all your RAM.  Instructions on doing so are beyond the scope of this site, but you may be able to get useful information on [SuperUser][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/HP-Compaq/presario-sr5710f&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/Compaq-Presario-SR5000-Desktop-PC-series/3823953/model/3867466/document/c01616202/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/presario-sr5710f/CT927931&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://superuser.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21525" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1518" RevisionGUID="ed55f62b-78ee-442d-8cb9-032e7163c610" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I'm having trouble finding an official [Ubuntu Certified](http://www.ubuntu.com/certification/) or Shipped-with-linux computers with shipping to Germany, so I'm going to reccomend the Lenovo Y50-70.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Lenovo Y50-70 [(Amazon.de)][1] !!C- (52.6%)##&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2 potential problems (marked by (~))** Score calculated by number of (+) divided by total possible (+)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Germany, via Amazon.de with free shipping **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Is not Ubuntu certified, but there [have][2] been [multiple][3] people who have [successfully][4] installed [linux][5] on the Y50-70, though exact hardware configurations may vary (Most models used were using the 860M) and the installation was not always without trouble. **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - The DOS/256 GB SSD version linked is €949.00 **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - It has 8GB of DDR3 SDRAM, potentially upgradable to 16GB in the future **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Weight is 2.4 kg **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Battery is claimed to last 5 hours. This is probably under Windows, so you may need a battery efficent distro and try to limit display brightness and CPU/GPU voltage **(~)**&#xD;&#xA; - Model has a 15.6&quot; 1080p IPS display **(++)**&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, 1 USB 2.0 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Intel WiFi cards (Wireless-AC 3160) are generally supported **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - [The fans shut off at low load][6] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**10/12** The above section accounts for 60% of the total score&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The GTX 960M has a VGA port **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Keyboard is fairly standard for a gaming notebook this size **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - The keyboard is a standard QWERTY layout **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - 4 in 1 card reader **(5)**&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD **(5)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**18/25** The above each has a maximum score out of 5&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Apparently, it does have a LAN slot][7] **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - There might be an external DVD drive for driver installation, but I wouldn't count on it. No internal ODD **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - The 1080p version has a matte display **(3)**&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 960M. Mid range, quite speedy, but not a workstation card. 4 GB VRAM and 80 GB/s, competitive with a Quadro M2000M **(2)**&#xD;&#xA; - Not light enough **(0)**&#xD;&#xA; - [Someone has reviewed a older version using linux, but it's a rather small addendum][3] **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**9/18** The above each has a maximum score out of 3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, no USB 3.1 **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1/2**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Partially Aluminum **(0.5)**&#xD;&#xA; - Red backlit keyboard **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Webcam and microphone built in **(+)**&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth **(+)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3.5/4** Total for section 2: **31.5/49 (64%)**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U1PP3FQ/ref=twister_B00YXZU29M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=239&amp;t=202980&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/lenovo-ideapad-y50-review.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/y50-linux-thread.756405/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://superuser.com/questions/873056/linux-mint-17-1-lenovo-y50-70-installing-getting-gtx860m-to-work-with-nvidia-dr&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-GTX-960M-FHD-Notebook-Review.145896.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://laptopmedia.com/review/lenovo-y50-gtx-960m-review-the-slimmed-down-powerhouse-got-even-better/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1529" RevisionGUID="c9f4470c-8a2f-40e3-9338-363e9cc0a7d3" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I bought several inexpensive new 7″ and 10″ Android tablets from different manufacturers.  The screens on all of them are quite poor.  You have to look at them at just the right angle to get a reasonably good image.  Straight-on viewing is no good, nor is anything at more than a 20° angle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I even wrote [this SuperUser question][1] asking about what has changed in LED screen manufacturing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend inexpensive 7″–11″ Android tablets that have good quality screens?  By ‘good quality screen’, I mean something that when viewed straight-on looks perfect, and is usable at a minimum of 30° in all 4 directions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t have a requirement of the screen technology (IPS, etc.).  Although more pixels is better, I prefer image quality over pixel density.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Android version must be 4.4 ‘KitKat’ or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like as low of a price as possible, but am not going to set a price requirement because I don’t know the starting price point for a tablet with a good screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1012398/why-is-straight-on-viewing-of-inexpensive-lcd-screens-no-longer-the-best-angle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21527" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1652" RevisionGUID="87dbef14-0d02-43fb-838f-27fceb5c22c2" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="&gt; I'm just looking for a good base computer that I can play some sims on&#xD;&#xA;&gt; that I can upgrade as I go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Than your best bet is going with latest mobo and cheapest processor for this chipset (1151 in this case, codenamed [skylake][1]). That way, in years to come, the i7-6700 processor can be much cheaper, not to mention other processors that will come for this chipset ([Cannonlake][2] and [Kaby Lake][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-6400 @ 2.70GHz has a mark of 6,517 points on [cpubenchmark][4] and Intel Core i3-4170 @ 3.70GHz has 5,166 points. Which means, that their performance is comparable in multitasking, with i5-6400 slightly better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is in number of physical cores, and speed obviously. The [i3-4170][5] has **two** physical cores, while [i5-6400 has four][6]. The Intel HyperThreading technology allows a processor to reclaim some (!) of unused processing time of cores that are idle, or to be more precise, the instructions on the core, that are not used ([the performance gain is close to 20%][7]). This means, that for multithreading you are far better with i5-6400, and for quick, single threaded tasks, with i3-4170. Please consult the [question &amp; answers][8] on Superuser about Intel HyperThreading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the game Sims 3, either will perform greatly. Which does not necessairly mean, that you should go with cheaper one - investing in Skylake platform will make your build much more 'future-proof', and it's what I would reccomend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, as you mention lagging in Sims 3 - consider posting a qestion about graphics card for this, becasue I suspect, that the graphics bottlenecks (and will bottleneck, if you wont buy a graphic card in your new setup).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skylake_(microarchitecture)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannonlake&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaby_Lake&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i3-4170%20%40%203.70GHz&amp;id=2522&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i5-6400%20%40%202.70GHz&amp;id=2578&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://superuser.com/a/122571/526874&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://superuser.com/questions/122536/what-is-hyper-threading-and-how-does-it-work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1670" RevisionGUID="ab1c7ce0-8f58-4c22-9bd1-80c3e394c0fb" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I bought GTX 960 GPUs but noticed that the are not supported by all my PCs, most notably business PCs. &#xD;&#xA;I would like to find some well supported GPUs because I am only interested in computation by GPU, not gaming. &#xD;&#xA;However, I am not sure if I lose some performance if I choose such GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;Options are only Nvidia's GPUs with CUDA support because the computation is required in Matlab. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Examples of Business PCs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- HP Compaq Pro 6300 Business PC (Intel Chipset Q75) and many other HP PCs with Intel Chipset Q75, Q85, ... Thread [here][1] about Q85 and [here][2] about Q75.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can you find GPU for computation with wide support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/869600/what-is-the-6-pin-power-connector-on-an-hp-prodesk&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/q/1019536/2005" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1718" RevisionGUID="e6968f5c-e450-4f42-ae8b-af939f0802b6" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="# Bluetooth compared to 3.5mm CTIA TRRS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically if A2DP is [transparent][1] for you why would you replace it with a standard cable or even a proprietary one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another question named [3.5mm Analog Audio vs. Bluetooth Audio Quality][2] has been perfectly answered on SuperUser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Lightning cables as a DAC/Amp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm not an Apple customer, I believe that Apple *could* bring a change to the market, however till now it looks as constructed as the rumors about an Apple smart TV and not like solution that Apple (or some other company with another connector) intends to promote actively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones mentioned are the Philips Fidelio M2L (based on the inexpensive Fidelio M1 series) and the *AMP/DAC/DSP Apple Lightning cable*¹ for the Audeze EL-8 which has been offered with the closed back version in a *titanium*-colored variant for a few weeks.  The M2L looks like it has **no replaceable cable**, here is a comparison with the M1BTBL:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrating the DAC into the M2L cable (or similar products) and putting a 3.5mm plug on the other end would be possible and great for compatibility² but increase the price of DAC replacement cables (you probably get a new Fidelio M1 for the price) and generate questions from customers who have unfounded doubts about the 3.5mm plug.³  Proprietary connectors on the headphones themselves are accepted for products in higher price ranges and ensure compatibility with a variety of jacks on different devices, but mainstream product designs seem to be increasingly **optimized for incompatibility and obsolescence**.⁴&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products that rely on only one connector type that isn't 3.5mm TRS/[TRRS][4] appear to be very short lived to me. You may find adapters, but that wouldn't be very practical.  The 3.5mm jacks and plugs are very durable and have been around for a long time, Microsoft even moved from 2.5mm to standard 3.5mm TRRS with their Xbox One and Sony has them on their PS4 too.  The missing headphone jack on the [HTC Dream][5] was probably the biggest anti-feature.  I'd rather recommend Bluetooth headphones with an optional 3.5mm analog jack, this way you get an integrated DAC and flexibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's more to consider: **Your next primary or personal communication device may not even have a Lightning-port or USB-port at all and connects completely wireless.**  If the size of the 3.5mm plug actually becomes an issue for designing new ground breaking products then *no* physical connector would be the answer and we're almost there with smartwatches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Conclusion and recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you encounter this or a similar topic check *who* promotes *what*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone reviewing *consumer* hardware with **a favor for a different connector for audio is not [objective][6]**.  It's also inconsistent and appears to be overexcited when there was nothing to complain about 3.5mm plugs or Bluetooth with aptX in the ecosystem (Apple) before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may find that the Lightning or whatever version doesn't sound significantly better than the Bluetooth version or better at all. Save the money for a product in the next tier or for something completely different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't matter if you prefer bass, mids or highs. If you prefer not carrying an additional device with you, that's fine too but has limitations.⁵  In any case get the most objective or reasonable playback device or sound source and the headphones with sound signatures you prefer for your music, then do your ABX listening tests. You will be confident with the decision you made and that should matter the most to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Now called [Cipher][7].  I feel a little betrayed here, I shouldn't have searched for material on the web when writing this to find a fresh uploaded promotional video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I carry both the M1BTBL and M-100 around with only one cable and I get the most out of that setup. (Even more with an aptX dongle and a mobile DAC/Amp.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Analog connectors with better electrical characteristics have been available for a long time and implemented in professional equipment, but there is no need for these in the consumer market.  Also related: [Is there sound quality loss in 6mm to 3.5mm TRS adapter?][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. A coworker has the standard M1 and left them for a short while in the car during summer, the glued cushion seams on this model ripped and cannot be replaced.  Another thing is that Bluetooth headphones typically don't feature mechanisms to replace the battery, though a replaceable cover with a battery to twist or screw off doesn't seem to be impossible to implement in most designs and is still stylish for a fashion item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. The EL-8 cable looks like a good idea to give you the optimal mobile experience on an iDevice, but they are still a heavy pair of cans for a walk around the city and if you have the habit to bang your head with the music or just sway to music while sitting down at home you're not getting the optimal performance when they bounce on your head creating pressure variations that interfere with the very sensitive diaphragms doing their work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Transparency_%28data_compression%29&amp;oldid=692837933&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/q/464388/252532&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8SY7J.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phone_connector_%28audio%29&amp;oldid=696979593#TRRS_standards&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=HTC_Dream&amp;oldid=697529763&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/05/subjective-vs-objective-debate.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_52Tw02RD88&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://sound.stackexchange.com/q/31734/8112" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1843" RevisionGUID="5ea2de43-7eae-4f3b-bf1a-58d0f4b0aa85" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="The reason for $30 extra for ITX is because it is smaller physically. You are paying for higher precision engineering (same stuff needs to fit into a smaller square) also explains less PCI and RAM ports. The ITX board will also in theory use a bit less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ITX board also has a TPM header the other one doesnt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More info here: &#xD;&#xA;https://superuser.com/questions/810276/why-very-few-modern-motherboards-are-equipped-with-tpm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes the G3460 is going to be better for you if you use the Saphire card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21532" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1912" RevisionGUID="72032234-57b1-46ef-9966-8f6f552e1d8d" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Connecting two USB2 devices to an external USB2/3 HUB, connected to one USB2/3 port would normally limit the average read-speed to 240 Mb/s, and continuing adding devices would limit the average speed to 480Mb/s divided by number of devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same would be if I use a USB controller card on the mainboard of most computers, as they are normally implemented using only one [USB channels][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the solution for handling eight devices in full speed is to get USB controller(s) that is implemented using eight dedicated channels to handle the speed of all of the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does exist an USB controller card that are able to handle full speed of four USB 3.0 devices ([PEXUSB3S44V][2]). Four two of these the total would cost about $255 here in Norway. As I do not need the speed of USB 2.0 this price is a bit to much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other alternatives that would handle 8 or 2*4 USB 2.0 drives at full speed to a cheaper price than $255?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/a/405356/506409&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dustinhome.no/product/5010815847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21533" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="3ae1b29c-a318-4f82-bb2e-6021be41aa0e" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="488e1bdf-add9-4015-acb3-4253dc6d39c3" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - https://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &lt;s&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - New supporting driver released on 2017-02-17 (following dependent Windows Updates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Work Arounds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3853" RevisionGUID="1db049f4-5ded-43e8-8823-90d046c73aaf" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="You must consider the following possible scenarios that would lead to data-loss:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 1. hardware failure&#xD;&#xA; 2. water (inundation)&#xD;&#xA; 3. fire&#xD;&#xA; 4. earthquake&#xD;&#xA; 5. time degradation of backup medium&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider this setup:&#xD;&#xA;2x 1TB hard drives of different types and manufacturers, RAID / copy on both the same information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Keep drives in separate locations (aka different homes). This should take care of problems 1,2 (if the inundation is localized aka in your home) and 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - To protect from 4 you can either buy or build a very solid steel case or consider the backing up your _crucial part_ online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - To protect from 5. you should consider backing up your data on [Archival Paper][1]. You can get 6 MiB / sheet of paper (two sides).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Paper is different. Do you remember the punched cards? EBCDIC and all&#xD;&#xA;&gt; this stuff. For years, cards were the main storage medium for the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; source code. I agree that 100K+ programs were... unhandly, but hey,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; only real programmers dared to write applications of this size. And&#xD;&#xA;&gt; used cards were good as notepads, too. Punched tapes were also common.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; And even the most weird codings, like CDC or EBCDIC, were readable by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; humans (I mean, by real programmers).&#xD;&#xA;http://ollydbg.de/Paperbak/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More here: http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/134427-a-paper-based-backup-solution-not-as-stupid-as-it-sounds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/a/374615/493847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3970" RevisionGUID="3da16224-d2ff-4b4d-95ee-4af6886c6933" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Your colleagues may have a quadcore in their Laptops, but one each only. Haven´t seen a laptop with two CPUs yet. That´s what you have MultiCore for nowadays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See more detailed info at https://superuser.com/questions/906539/is-using-multiple-cpus-possible-in-a-laptop (see Coretool´s answer) and&#xD;&#xA;https://www.quora.com/Personal-computers-Dual-processors-Why-doesnt-a-PC-have-a-CPU-dedicated-to-the-user#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I found that there *is* a laptop with two CPUs: The Asus Transformer Book Trio has an Intel i7 for Windows and an Intel Atom for Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5458" RevisionGUID="9ae456a7-756c-413a-a415-6b44509636cf" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="AsRock offers the cheapest sub-ATX sized board that I'd actually try to run [QHD at 60Hz][1] on: the **[ASRock AM1H-ITX][2]**. Per [AsRock spec][3], the DP port is 1.2 compliant, so it [should be capable of QHD/60hz][4]. Putting an AMD Athlon 5370 in the CPU slot should just about drive that resolution. Not sure I'd risk it with anything lower than that, but if you're the adventurous type, then you can get integrated, very cheap solutions like the ASRock QC5000-ITX/PH or the ASRock J3710-ITX (mind you, I'm not a huge AsRock fan, they just seem to be the ones offering the cheapest, most prolific models in this space. I'm guessing other brands offer solutions here, I just can't seem to find them). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FWIW, it seems that any FM2+, 1150, or 1151 motherboards with a DisplayPort out should all conform to at least DP 1.2, meaning they support your desired display. On the Intel side I'd tend to advise packages with HD 4400 or higher graphics solutions, but it is possible I'm way off base on that and plain old HD graphics will work just fine due to the magic of Intel's Quicksync decoder - but definitely do not try anything from AMD without VCE or from Intel without Quicksync. Those two technologies should be considered mandatory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/977654/what-is-the-difference-between-4k-uhd-and-qhd-do-we-agree-on-one-official-reso&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157491&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/AM1H-ITX/index.us.asp?cat=Specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Resolution_and_frame_rate_support_for_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21539" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="acd6a5db-625c-4880-9557-deea1e7fb00b" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21540" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5638" RevisionGUID="c57b63de-d70c-40b3-a01f-2173d2ebe899" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="[**MOVED TO SUPERUSER STACKEXCHANGE**][1]&#xD;&#xA;=========================================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a HP Pavillion dv6 laptop for about 6 years now, but I have always had heat (the computer now and then &quot;freezes&quot; because of over-heating, even when I am running no heavy processes) and battery (I am not able to watch a full movie with only the battery) troubles. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that the main problem is in the processor (Intel Core i7 720QM / 1.6 GHz) which consumes too much power and therefore drains battery and overheats at the same time. I read that it is possible to reduce the number of active cores in Windows with msconfig; is this a good idea considering my problem? How will it affect my working experience? Will it reduce heat and increase battery life? Will it reduce performance considerably?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other, and better solutions you would suggest (such as a laptop stand with active cooler, other OS, ...)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1118771/is-reducing-the-number-of-active-cores-in-my-pc-a-good-idea-considering-heat-and" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6439" RevisionGUID="5132a8c9-8bed-4167-adf0-bf5c16e52981" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="I found the answer  [here, by user spiff][1] (First line edited to match context) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual band cards cannot connect to two signals at once, the term you are looking for is &quot;simultaneous dual-band&quot; which is also called &quot;dual-band concurrent&quot;. I'm not aware of any client card that is. Simultaneous dual-band support is something only APs do, in order to support legacy 2.4GHz clients and more modern 5GHz clients at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want your dual-band client card to automatically pick the best band, make sure both radios in your simultaneous dual-band AP are publishing the same network name (SSID) with the same security mode and same password. I recommend WPA2-personal a.k.a. WPA2-PSK, and I recommend AES-CCMP only; don't bother enabling TKIP (this may be called something like &quot;WPA2/WPA mixed mode&quot;) unless you know for a fact that you still have an old product around from c. 2002-2003 that supports TKIP but not AES.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have a simultaneous dual-band AP, and instead have two separate APs (one for 2.4 and one for 5GHz), still make sure they're both publishing the same network name, with the exact same security mode and password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/774256/how-do-i-use-my-dual-band-wi-fi-card-to-connect-to-5ghz-and-2-4ghz-simultaneousl" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6847" RevisionGUID="a10d257e-666f-46a7-8bf2-d9506fff9ac6" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:18:04.390" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://superuser.com/ with https://superuser.com/" Text="According to my sources (and [I have a detailed answer on SU][1] on the subject, including a handy graph and links to a spreadsheet) - 27&quot; is *pretty&quot; darned close to the sweetspot for PC use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I game on a 980TI at that resolution (which is fine) but I've  driven 4k60 off much older/less high end video cards. I don't use gsync (which is mainly for gaming) and vsync is unrelated. Personally I don't *think* g-sync would be that useful here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Personally* I'd suggest the dell [P2715Q][2]. I have one and its *glorious*. Its the &quot;sweet spot&quot; 27&quot; which is just right for the distance I sit at - roughly 1.25m. Its IPS (and this matters in terms of colour quality), and comes calibrated out of the box. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wirecutter considers it the [*best* 4k monitor][3] of *any size* - and its reasonably priced compared to most options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the *essentials* - pair of DP 1.2 ports (one micro and one standard) and one more to let you daisy chain (Don't daisy chain) , HDMI/MHL (4k30 only tho) in case you need to plug in a non PC device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has a few nice things like an onboard USB 3.0 hub and the *ability to turn off the powerlight when its in use*. This sounds like a minor thing but its awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with the dell stands - which are pretty much the best in the industry and let tilt, pivot and adjust heights to your preferences. You can trivially swap these out for standard VESA mounts for wall or multi monitor mounts, or a dell 2 monitor stand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fonts are readable (at 150% UI scaling on windows 10) and *seriously* crisp. What 4K content I've tested so far looks great too. I've basically ploughed through several novels and a few hundred stackexchange answers on this and its not fatiguing at all. I've gamed on it (though my 980TI sometimes wheezes during particularly demanding scenes) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/990799/will-the-pixel-density-difference-be-visible-between-4k-and-2k-monitors-at-27-s/991823#991823&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=04&amp;l=en&amp;sku=210-ADOF&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-4k-monitors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21543" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="873" RevisionGUID="1b40e038-897e-43a7-8617-d08f9d3e2eac" CreationDate="2017-03-20T10:32:31.163" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://meta.stackexchange.com/ with https://meta.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones? Or how should I go about finding one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use now&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012, which I purchased in March 2010. It has a single core Intel Atom N450 CPU, 1 GB of RAM, and a 10.1&quot; display, and runs Xubuntu 14.04 LTS. I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Applications I use regularly include Firefox, GIMP, LibreOffice, XChat, Skype, gedit (a text editor), ca65 (6502 assembler), GCC, GNU Make, IDLE (Python IDE), FFmpeg, FCEUX (NES emulator) SDL version, FCEUX debugging version (in Wine), NO$SNS (Super NES emulator in Wine), and FamiTracker (in Wine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the buses in my city do not offer Wi-Fi, I often open several pages in tabs in Firefox, board the bus, and read them. Using suspend this way is a lot cheaper than subscribing to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why I must replace it&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've decided that eventually I'll need to replace my laptop for several reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The keyboard is wearing out: Ctrl, x, and f need a bit more pressure to register.&#xD;&#xA;* JavaScript-heavy sites make Firefox freeze for seconds at a time. A laptop with more than one core would be ready for Electrolysis [come Firefox 49][Electrolysis schedule] or for Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;* Like other Intel IGPs prior to HD Graphics, its GMA 3150 IGP is compatible with OpenGL 1.4 only. Firefox blacklists it for WebGL because WebGL requires at least OpenGL 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;* It's five and a half years old. I worry that its chipset or hard drive or display could give out.&#xD;&#xA;* Wireless on 2.4 GHz runs fine, but it can't see 5 GHz access points. (5 GHz would be nice to have but is not critical because 2.4 GHz works.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trouble finding a replacement&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;But at the end of 2012, manufacturers [discontinued their netbook lines][Slashdot end of the netbook]. The closest thing to a netbook nowadays is a 2-in-1 tablet with a clip-on keyboard, such as an ASUS Transformer Book (T100TA), or a 11.6&quot; laptop such as the ASUS EeeBook (X205TA). But I've read that 2-in-1s have severe hardware compatibility problems problems with Linux. The DebianOn reports for [T100TA][DebianOn T100TA] and [X205TA][DebianOn X205TA] mention problems getting basic things such as Wi-Fi, audio, and suspend to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been XY'd up and down&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;When I have explained this problem to others, many have assumed an [XY problem] on my part and recommended other devices. Each has drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop sold by System76 is guaranteed to run Linux, but it's just too big. The smallest one they advertise is 14 inches. If I bought a significantly larger laptop, I would need to carry it in a larger bag, and I fear that traditional laptop bags are magnets for thieves. Even if I were to carry it in a backpack, I'm still unsure of how I would test-drive the ability to use a larger laptop in the somewhat cramped quarters of a bus seat.&#xD;&#xA;* A MacBook Air is expensive. I would consider it if I were developing apps for iOS, but I am not. I have a budget of $500 plus shipping and tax to replace this. Five years ago, netbooks used to run in the range of $300.&#xD;&#xA;* A Dell XPS 13 is both big and expensive, though admittedly not as big as other 13&quot; laptops.&#xD;&#xA;* A device with an ARM CPU does not run Wine. I occasionally use a few Windows-only applications that are are light enough to run well in Wine on a Pentium 4 or Atom CPU, namely FCEUX debugging edition, FamiTracker, and No$sns.&#xD;&#xA;* A 10 inch laptop (or tablet with clip-on keyboard) running Android would impose a window management policy of all maximized all the time, which is inconvenient because opening a calculator app will make my source code disappear and vice versa. (Android Nougat might change this.) I've used a GNU toolchain on Windows (MinGW + MSYS) and on GNU/Linux but lack experience with a GNU toolchain on Android.&#xD;&#xA;* A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps. A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told [tools by John Lewis](http://johnlewis.ie/) can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a laptop whose suspend is known not to work and then just shut it all the way down every time. People tell me that SSDs make this practical nowadays. But this would break opening pages in Firefox tabs to read them later. Once I &quot;Restore Previous Session&quot;, Firefox restores the URLs, but the content of each page is replaced with &quot;Problem loading page&quot; because I am offline when I board the bus. This means I would have to subscribe to mobile broadband. The price difference between my current flip phone plan and a smartphone data plan allowing tethering would likely exceed my budget.&#xD;&#xA;* The Transformer Book and EeeBook run Windows well. All the applications I use would work equally well in Windows. But I've read that Windows 10 will continue to spy on me even if I turn off Cortana and live tiles. Nor do I want to lose my Linux skills.&#xD;&#xA;* I could buy a desktop PC and access it through remote desktop from a Chromebook, Android device, etc. But then I would again have to subscribe to mobile broadband.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Electrolysis schedule]: https://wiki.mozilla.org/Electrolysis#Schedule&#xD;&#xA;[Slashdot end of the netbook]: http://hardware.slashdot.org/story/12/12/31/1829212/does-2012-mark-the-end-of-the-netbook&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn T100TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/T100TA&#xD;&#xA;[DebianOn X205TA]: https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/Asus/X205TA&#xD;&#xA;[XY problem]: https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/66377/229356" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7085" RevisionGUID="8a9c6fa1-7eb7-4203-90ec-118ff6d28158" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:59:58.293" UserId="1175" Text="I think a USB endoscope/inspection camera could be useful, for looking in small spaces. It seems there's loads of these available cheaply, eg on Ebay, or Amazon, or Gearbest etc, for under $10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But which ones are any good?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to connect it to my phone or tablet (Android), so would need a Micro USB connection. Would be useful if it also had an adapter for regular USB. Presumably they require their own app/software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there much difference in image quality between them? I'm not expecting high resolution, just good enough to see what's there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need a cable a couple of metres long, and some sort of LED lighting on the end. And preferably water resistant." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7085" RevisionGUID="8a9c6fa1-7eb7-4203-90ec-118ff6d28158" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:59:58.293" UserId="1175" Text="USB endoscope camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7085" RevisionGUID="8a9c6fa1-7eb7-4203-90ec-118ff6d28158" CreationDate="2017-03-20T11:59:58.293" UserId="1175" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7087" RevisionGUID="11ab28df-d4c8-4f9d-b987-1407a41441b5" CreationDate="2017-03-20T12:26:58.067" UserId="5839" Text="A Pocket CHIP Matt be fine but it has tactile switches so they are difficult to press. Also the corners aren't filed so fibre glass is always rubbing against your hand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7089" RevisionGUID="97a432f2-6a82-4246-a3ad-92555a3694bd" CreationDate="2017-03-20T12:33:45.330" UserId="5840" Text="I have a big crowded hall (around 200-300 persons) that I need to cover with Wi-Fi coverage, these people need to access a web server inside the network (it's an intranet). So what is the best hardware implementation? I have a budget of 280$-300$ only. I am thinking of buying multiple access-points (maybe 10-12 access-points?), will this be enough to give a continuous and stable access to users? Is there a better implementation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also be glad if you kindly recommend any AP brand or a specific model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21553" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7089" RevisionGUID="97a432f2-6a82-4246-a3ad-92555a3694bd" CreationDate="2017-03-20T12:33:45.330" UserId="5840" Text="Give Wi-Fi access to a big number of users" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21554" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7089" RevisionGUID="97a432f2-6a82-4246-a3ad-92555a3694bd" CreationDate="2017-03-20T12:33:45.330" UserId="5840" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7090" RevisionGUID="a5a6d5e3-624d-48eb-9375-457e82bb0776" CreationDate="2017-03-20T14:44:57.403" UserId="5841" Text="This connects my PSU to my SATA HD. What is this type of cable/connector called, and where can I get more, i.e. buy one such cable not a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU to SATA][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMX9v.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7090" RevisionGUID="a5a6d5e3-624d-48eb-9375-457e82bb0776" CreationDate="2017-03-20T14:44:57.403" UserId="5841" Text="What is this cable, PSU to SATA, [img]?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7090" RevisionGUID="a5a6d5e3-624d-48eb-9375-457e82bb0776" CreationDate="2017-03-20T14:44:57.403" UserId="5841" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="223" RevisionGUID="d9fd823b-6137-491b-8c5b-e9c450a2f19b" CreationDate="2017-03-20T16:15:41.080" UserId="162" Comment="technology has changed...." Text="I, and my son, both have Samsung Galaxy S4 Active and its survived all the things you were wondering about. You can get them at a very reasonable price on the worlds largest online vendor but make sure you get one that is compatible with your phone provider. You probably don't need the extra features that come with the S6 and if you manage to destroy a $200 device its a lot less painful then losing $700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I still think the S4 Active is a terrific phone and new ones (S4 Active) can be had for $139 on the aforementioned vendor you should make sure that you can still update the OS on the phone. I would look at a later version of the Samsung 'S' Active line because not only is it software update able but the cameras are so, so much better now. Currently I upgraded to a S7 and love it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7082" RevisionGUID="0f46ef7f-68a2-411b-b043-570c738778b2" CreationDate="2017-03-20T19:38:25.333" UserId="5824" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I would like to know if a laptop with Intel(R) Core(TM)i7-4600U @ 2.10GHz 2.70GHz , 2 cores and 4 threats , 4 Mo Cache , 8GB of RAM and 256 Go SSD is capable of running two or more virtual machines simultaneously(let's say for example windows server 2008 and ubuntu 14.04 as VMs) .&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7091" RevisionGUID="b55f9232-dea7-4a6e-8b70-e3f8fc97aa9a" CreationDate="2017-03-20T20:45:13.703" UserId="5840" Text="Some shopping websites are calling it &quot;5-Pin to SATA Modular Power Supply Unit Cable&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;I don't think there's a name for the 5-pin connector." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7092" RevisionGUID="92511203-95a7-4a16-b5fc-626595f060f0" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:46:12.483" UserId="4232" Text="A fully-wired PSU is simply a non-modular PSU, and comes with all power cables hard-wired. A semi-modular PSU has the essential cables hard wired and the other cables socketed. A (fully) modular PSU has all power cables socketed. To quote Overclockers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Whereas non-modular power supplies come with all possible cables already attached, a modular PSU comes with connectors, giving you the freedom to use only the cables that you really need. There are two types of modular PSU, and the one you decide to go for will largely depend on your requirements and budget. A semi modular PSU comes with only the essential cables wired on—usually the ATX 12V and EPS 12V, and in some cases the PCI-E cables—whilst a fully modular PSU comes with no cables whatsoever. A semi modular power supply offers a more affordable solution, whilst a fully modular power supply allows for ultimate cable flexibility at a somewhat higher price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[www.overclockers.co.uk](https://www.overclockers.co.uk/pc-components/power-supplies/modular)**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21563" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="3d15525f-edf4-4780-a0fe-96121d1cb460" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:46:39.250" UserId="1175" Comment="clarify what is required" Text="Are there any recommendations for a single board PC (similar to a Raspberry Pi, for example) which has both HDMI input and output ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trying to catch HDMI input, modify it, and push it to a screen; any thoughts / tips greatly appreciated. My experience in this space is nil, but have a high level understanding of what the build may require" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21564" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="3d15525f-edf4-4780-a0fe-96121d1cb460" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:46:39.250" UserId="1175" Comment="clarify what is required" Text="Single board PC with HDMI input and output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21565" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="3d15525f-edf4-4780-a0fe-96121d1cb460" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:46:39.250" UserId="1175" Comment="clarify what is required" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21566" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="3d15525f-edf4-4780-a0fe-96121d1cb460" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:46:39.250" Comment="Proposed by 1175 approved by 5822 edit id of 581" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7093" RevisionGUID="b0658782-051b-4544-a09b-bd6bb4c30c4b" CreationDate="2017-03-20T23:51:23.637" UserId="4232" Text="The connector shown is a 5-pin modular power supply connector with a single side lock, possibly for a Be Quiet power supply. Most modular power supplies that use side-locking connectors have dual side locks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pure PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KW4uw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7094" RevisionGUID="dd3be90d-0000-46cd-b0ba-4c01ea5c3912" CreationDate="2017-03-20T23:54:45.357" UserId="976" Text="While there are DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual Link dongles, they appear to be quite expensive and require USB Power to function correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][1] dongle from StarTech should support a DisplayPort input and convert to Dual Link DVI-D, which is needed for 144Hz at 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the cheaper dongles available for DP to DVI are either Single Link or do not have the bandwidth to output at 1080p 144Hz. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812400320&amp;cm_re=active_dual_link_displayport-_-12-400-320-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7093" RevisionGUID="df508608-a897-4e00-82b4-055d6a5e2741" CreationDate="2017-03-20T23:59:03.153" UserId="4232" Comment="added 286 characters in body" Text="The connector shown is a 5-pin modular power supply connector with a single side lock, possibly for a Be Quiet! power supply. They are widely available. &#xD;&#xA;[This example](https://www.scan.co.uk/products/720mm-be-quiet!-braided-s-ata-power-cable-cs-6740-for-all-current-be-quiet!-modular-psu-4-x-sata-bla) is from Scan.co.uk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that most modular power supplies that use side-locking connectors have dual side locks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a Be Quiet! modular PSU with single side-lock connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pure PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KW4uw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7095" RevisionGUID="5538e677-c541-4b64-b356-4c4c82c0251b" CreationDate="2017-03-21T00:45:25.017" UserId="976" Text="I would have to recommend either of these two laptops. Neither of them focus on having a touchscreen display, fingerprint reader, HD webcam, or other &quot;gimmick&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a little over $610, the [**Lenovo IdeaPad 510s**][2] best fills your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a rundown of the system:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7500U (2.7GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Radeon R7 M460 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; Non-Touchscreen 1920x1080 Display&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 3.7lbs (~1.7kg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For about $900, the [**Lenovo IdeaPad 310**][1] has more RAM and a larger SSD, at the cost of some weight, GPU performance, and screen resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a rundown of the system:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7500U (2.7GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - Integrated Intel HD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; Non-Touchscreen 1366x768 Display&#xD;&#xA; - 12GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 4.85lbs (~2.2kg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA0S57P3049&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Ideapad-i7-7500U-Windows-80UV001BUS/dp/B01LNOECBE/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490055270&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=ssd&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_twelve_browse-bin%3A9521908011%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2289792011%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A7817224011%7C13580790011%7C13580791011%7C13580789011%7C13580788011%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A13580795011%7C9521903011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7096" RevisionGUID="2d6dca0d-a719-4a82-8d72-8e72f469486e" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:35:19.693" UserId="5848" Text="For multimedia streaming, beware of the qnap.  They have recently removed Kodi support due to (apparently) licensing issues with Dolby.  Further, their default player (again due to the licensing issue) will not play or transcode ac3 or dts.  I'm not sure that you can even play an mkv.  Lots of unhappy people on their forums at the moment.  I had the same(ish) choice as you: ds216+ii or ts-251a.  I went with the 251a because of better harware and assumed support for the most popular audio formats and container.  I regret that decision and will likely return it in favour of the 216+ii." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7097" RevisionGUID="d4256c76-7bf2-49c0-8770-3982e7bfb282" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:48:04.487" UserId="5849" Text="**Hello community,**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back in 2013 and build my own PC finaly. But nowdays i think its kind old for stuff i am doing at PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I do on my pc now?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I like playing games** . Recently i discover That CS: GO consume 80% of my CPU (am playing FullHD) That a lot i think.&#xD;&#xA;I was trying Ghost Recon: wildlands open beta, we frame rate about 20-36 FPS and low settings in fullHD. Other games I play are sometime strategy but also want to play games modern.&#xD;&#xA;With friend we play games and sometimes am a host.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I am also YouTuber / Streamer**&#xD;&#xA;So i make few videos Ghost Recon form, but also record it with nvidia share (with GPU Takes the hard part). For recording using OBS am with nvidia nvec, and same setting for streaming in 720p30 in some games in 60 FPS.&#xD;&#xA;Currently we streams are ok, but sometimes get laggy Because the CPU and GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Photoshop, video editing, rendering**&#xD;&#xA;For pictures and graphic am using photoshop Currently Seems like i have enough power.&#xD;&#xA;For editng video rendering and i think its not. Take a long time to make a 20 min video like 40-50 min to render in fullHD.&#xD;&#xA;Just for fun i am rendering Also fractals, but its not import.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sat Those are the most stuff i am doing on my PC. Sometimes am and hosting games and streaming and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My curret build**&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-3550p &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia GTX 660Ti &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 16 gigabytes 1600MHz (two slots)&#xD;&#xA;MB: Asrock Z77 pro3 &#xD;&#xA;Drive: 1 TB Western Digital&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Corsair 600 Watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My budget**&#xD;&#xA;I save 400 dolars for upgare.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My opinion&#xD;&#xA;In my opinion i need to buy new motherboard and CPU. I am not a guy looking for graphics.&#xD;&#xA;I was Considering Intel Core i5-7600 or i7-7700 &#xD;&#xA;and motherborad &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But i am not sure if it buy new CPU or GPU to boost performence for gameing and recording.&#xD;&#xA;And the same time there is a Ryzens with AMD, onestly i am not a fan of AMD i have a bad experince with Them in a trap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy new HW for next **4-5 years**. &#xD;&#xA;Also i not sure if i need **CPU with K**, beacuse i never do it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Future GPU**&#xD;&#xA;In near future i would like to buy Nvidia GTX 1060 (6GB). What's to think? ITS good option for me? or should i take Radeon or 1050Ti?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anyway thanks for any reply and have a nice day**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21574" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7097" RevisionGUID="d4256c76-7bf2-49c0-8770-3982e7bfb282" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:48:04.487" UserId="5849" Text="Looking for PC upgade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21575" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7097" RevisionGUID="d4256c76-7bf2-49c0-8770-3982e7bfb282" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:48:04.487" UserId="5849" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21576" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7097" RevisionGUID="0a770e38-8cc4-4d0d-bd0a-4218aec31b57" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:56:07.373" UserId="5849" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7098" RevisionGUID="c7d0680a-16c1-4109-9fc7-3132fdaeb877" CreationDate="2017-03-21T08:45:38.493" UserId="5851" Text="I have been researching on entry-level graphics cards for about a month and I have come down to four options, which I'm not sure how to finalize. The following are the cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Sapphire Nitro Radeon Rx 460 4GB OC [ $199 ]&#xD;&#xA; 2. Gigabyte Radeon Rx 460 Windforce OC [ $126 ]&#xD;&#xA; 3. ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti mini 4GB [ $150 ]&#xD;&#xA; 4. Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB [ $149 ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The costs are more in my country (India) and hence can be substantially different from other retailers around the globe. Please advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21578" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7098" RevisionGUID="c7d0680a-16c1-4109-9fc7-3132fdaeb877" CreationDate="2017-03-21T08:45:38.493" UserId="5851" Text="Picking the right future proof graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21579" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7098" RevisionGUID="c7d0680a-16c1-4109-9fc7-3132fdaeb877" CreationDate="2017-03-21T08:45:38.493" UserId="5851" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7099" RevisionGUID="c1b732cd-610a-4366-bb1d-907828ede914" CreationDate="2017-03-21T09:19:38.750" UserId="5440" Text="Although I'm not sure it's really doable (if all 300'ish people will be concurrently connected) for such a low price range. But buying 10 cheap APs isn't really the way to go. Rather by few (or even one like this http://amzn.to/2mKICP7) high performance/high throughput APs. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21581" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7090" RevisionGUID="b920d68b-c411-4b7f-9839-909e0e712ffc" CreationDate="2017-03-21T10:00:15.067" UserId="5841" Comment="added picture of PSU" Text="This connects my PSU to my SATA HD. What is this type of cable/connector called, and where can I get more, i.e. buy one such cable not a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU to SATA][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit, added picture of PSU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMX9v.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/48cWN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21582" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7098" RevisionGUID="86f6be77-a74b-4f38-900f-c0807fa214fb" CreationDate="2017-03-21T11:47:30.983" UserId="5851" Comment="added 411 characters in body" Text="I have been researching on entry-level graphics cards for about a month and I have come down to four options, which I'm not sure how to finalize. The following are the cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Sapphire Nitro Radeon Rx 460 4GB OC [ $199 ]&#xD;&#xA; 2. Gigabyte Radeon Rx 460 Windforce OC [ $126 ]&#xD;&#xA; 3. ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti mini 4GB [ $150 ]&#xD;&#xA; 4. Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB [ $149 ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The costs are more in my country (India) and hence can be substantially different from other retailers around the globe. Please advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I haven't provided any precise requirements because I felt that all the 4 listed cards fall in same generation and they all meet similar requirements - budget, mid-1080p performance, decent-good HEVC decoding/encoding, almost similar performance etc. And future proof is being not to invest anything on GPU for at least 3 years. Instinctive and experience based recommendation is what I'm looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6432" RevisionGUID="08a71212-3fd8-4670-9729-a52f4518b0f9" CreationDate="2017-03-21T12:05:07.457" UserId="2086" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="Current processor is:  **AMD Athlon II X2 240**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current Motherboard is:  **DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a CPU with around twice the benchmark potential. I will be reusing the same motherboard, so matching the CPU socket is essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In searching for a CPU, I have found what seems to be conflicting information which states that the CPU is an AM2+/AM3 CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is more than one CPU available, please list them so I may choose which one I would prefer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to Belarc the memory module is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 	6144 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM0' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB (serial number SerNum02)&#xD;&#xA;    Slot 'DIMM3' has 4096 MB (serial number SerNum03)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea whether the motherboard support AM2+ or AM3 port. I have o idea whether the memory is DDR3 or DDR2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard is so old it's not produced anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My CPU-z says I am using AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtniQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7100" RevisionGUID="e3299ad2-7d83-4a2c-88bb-b57d92750d77" CreationDate="2017-03-21T13:15:38.093" UserId="2086" Text="I would like to add something to the answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is confusion whether I am using AM2+ socket or AM3 sockets. Until today I still have a hard time believing that the same CPU with same product code have 2 versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is very confusing. Hence, we can't know the socket just from the CPU code, which is currently Athlon II X2 240.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And this is where my main problem is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well if we want to know, the way is to use a software called CPU-z. From that software I easily find out that my mobo uses AM3 socket with DDR 3 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBTEq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gwv9h.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once I know the socket, finding the right CPU is easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just go to https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11 and there are lists of CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD II Phenom X6 is one of the thing that fit as NZKshatriya said.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another I would like to add is that the CPU doesn't have several version. That one CPU simply fit on several sockets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3365776/cpu-socket-versions.html#19455769&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21585" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="7c8a87c7-4d96-4027-86fa-cbaf6cadba4c" CreationDate="2017-03-21T13:55:21.397" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7101" RevisionGUID="b8d369cc-1ae5-4c6c-bd16-c570c600ebc1" CreationDate="2017-03-21T18:15:50.417" UserId="5854" Text="As you I would upgrade the cpu and the motherboard. I think your cpu is the cause of your low fps. I myself have a i7-6700k and GTX 660 ti and I can play games like GTA V (120 fps) and CSGO (400 fps) with good full hd graphics. Also video rendering and blender etc.. aren't lagging or crashing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-7600 is good for your use. For gaming alone it's not worth it but for your use it should be good. If you think that there is any chance that you someday want to overclock it I would take the K version. Price is almost the same on K as it is in non-K version. Motherboard does not really matter but take that one of the popular once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also need new RAM if you are going to upgrade from 1155 to 1151. If your budget is not enough take only 8GB for now. But don't take too slow RAM. You might regret that later as it makes a difference on video editing and because combining different RAMs might cause problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You did not say if you had a ssd but if you don't I really recommend getting one. I like video editing myself and gaming myself and with ssd I can really see the difference. Cheap ssd does not take much away from your budget if you buy your parts from good places. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For future gpu don't take the 1050Ti. That is hardly better than 660 ti. 1060 is a good choice but if it too expensive Radeon should be also good for your use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7102" RevisionGUID="7a8ed311-ca49-4c7c-a75a-dd3f8b39275a" CreationDate="2017-03-21T20:22:52.597" UserId="5855" Text="Just to get a level of comparison:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The professional (workstation) videocards in the Nvidia family have usually the 1000 / 2000 / 3000 / 4000 / 5000 numbers, prefixed by the generation letter. They correspond to X40 / X50 / X60 / X70 / X80 of the consummer editions.&#xD;&#xA;So, for example, M5000M is roughly equivalent of the 980M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the same logic, the newer Nvidia GTX 1070 will have as equivalent Nvidia Quadro P4000M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But from the 9xx line to the 10xx line the jump was fantastic. For example 1060 is a something between the previous 970 and 980, while taking less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what you are comparing here (M1200) to GTX 1070M is like comparing 1040 to 1070. You say what? There's no GTX 1040? Yes, you're right, that's how low that video card is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You simply cannot compare them. So, if what you need is video processing power, there's no question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21588" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="44351bb3-6978-40e4-8422-af98b1c7a790" CreationDate="2017-03-21T22:14:47.807" UserId="4933" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="The following power supply units on Ebuyer are described as being &quot;fully wired&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Ace Black 120mm Fan 550W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/566862-ace-black-120mm-fan-550w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psuace550br)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT 450W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/159705-cit-450w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psucit450ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[PowerCool 850W Fully Wired 80+ Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/151296-powercool-850w-fully-wired-80-power-supply-pc850aubab)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT Dual Rail 480W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/158481-cit-dual-rail-480w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-480ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching Google for what exactly this means brings up results about modularity, but [this PSU here](http://www.ebuyer.com/621475-builder-500w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psu500builderblack) is described as being &quot;fully wired&quot; while also not being modular at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I can think of that &quot;fully wired&quot; would describe would be a PSU that comes wired, but to me that seems about as odd a selling point as a car that comes with wheels. :-) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**When buying a PSU, what exactly does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean?**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21589" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="2db59ce6-c5e8-44fe-a33a-94b6c8a43813" CreationDate="2017-03-21T23:51:19.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7104" RevisionGUID="d43c69f9-2a1f-475f-b53e-21a48c1f6732" CreationDate="2017-03-22T01:05:39.047" UserId="5859" Text="I've recently acquired a [Digitus DN-10-05U-1][1] for arrange my home's network.  Now I'd like to rack some proper 16 ports gigabit switch in there, but I'm really having a hard time finding anything fitting the cabinet.  Everything I could find so far was either too wide, too deep, not rackable, limited to 8 ports, apparently super cheap, ...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.digitus.info/en/products/network-and-server-cabinet-systems/wallmount-cabinets/unique-line/dn-10-05u-1/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21594" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7104" RevisionGUID="d43c69f9-2a1f-475f-b53e-21a48c1f6732" CreationDate="2017-03-22T01:05:39.047" UserId="5859" Text="16 ports rackable gigabit switch(es) for 10 inches wall mounting cabinet: does it even exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21595" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7104" RevisionGUID="d43c69f9-2a1f-475f-b53e-21a48c1f6732" CreationDate="2017-03-22T01:05:39.047" UserId="5859" Text="&lt;switch&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7098" RevisionGUID="8d3855ec-2527-465a-8038-e30ab4e74459" CreationDate="2017-03-22T04:17:12.410" UserId="5851" Comment="added 208 characters in body" Text="I have been researching on entry-level graphics cards for about a month and I have come down to four options, which I'm not sure how to finalize. The following are the cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Sapphire Nitro Radeon Rx 460 4GB OC \[ $199 \]][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Gigabyte Radeon Rx 460 Windforce OC \[ $126 \]][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti mini 4GB \[ $150 \]][3] &#xD;&#xA; 4. [Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB \[ $149 \]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The costs are more in my country (India) and hence can be substantially different from other retailers around the globe. Please advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I haven't provided any precise requirements because I felt that all the 4 listed cards fall in same generation and they all meet similar requirements - budget, mid-1080p performance, decent-good HEVC decoding/encoding, almost similar performance etc. And future proof is being not to invest anything on GPU for at least 3 years. Instinctive and experience based recommendation is what I'm looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note2: My minimal requirements for the card is to setup an always on HTPC with onboard HEVC decoding and be able to play AAA titles at decent quality for the next 3-4 years. Budget is limited to sub-$200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01J1M4HDS?m=A1AX89K8G709X5&amp;ref_=v_sp_detail_page&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01K1JVCRE?m=A1AX89K8G709X5&amp;ref_=v_sp_detail_page&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B01MCU1ERO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;m=A1AX89K8G709X5&amp;ref_=v_sp_detail_page&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.in/Gigabyte-Geforce-1050-Graphic-GV-N105TD5-4GD/dp/B01M4KGTNI?_encoding=UTF8&amp;m=A1AX89K8G709X5&amp;ref_=v_sp_detail_page" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21600" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2349" RevisionGUID="87dfc096-ec2f-458d-95c3-9bcc3b05f93c" CreationDate="2017-03-22T04:51:52.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21601" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="d6af9c96-3af4-4c85-82e6-2ff0f1e069ae" CreationDate="2017-03-22T06:53:09.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21602" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="034b0763-72ed-415a-960f-616030c32988" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:02:25.573" UserId="5860" Text="I am currently looking for a USB stick with hardware write-protection that is small enough to fit in my keychain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching the internet I could only find the [Kanguru SS3][1], which has a slightly too large form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.kanguru.com/storage-accessories/kanguru-ss3.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21603" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="034b0763-72ed-415a-960f-616030c32988" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:02:25.573" UserId="5860" Text="Small USB drive with hardware write-protection switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21604" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="034b0763-72ed-415a-960f-616030c32988" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:02:25.573" UserId="5860" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7106" RevisionGUID="cbe04484-6941-464d-93b6-efab1a4578bc" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:48:26.920" UserId="5859" Text="Some solutions I've found so far.  They are all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit&#xD;&#xA; - 16 ports&#xD;&#xA; - sold WITHOUT 10&quot; rack mounting kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit 561068][1].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 44 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Longshine LCS-GS8116-A][2].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.6 x 13.3 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ZyXEL GS-1100-16][3].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the rack mounting kit, I think (hope) that magnaroute LLC could come to the rescue, especially with that kind of produt: [magnaroute LLC FX-17 Multi-Vendor Rack Mount Kit][4].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B018X9RU0W/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006GUN776/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0046BAVQ2/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/magnaroute-LLC-FX-17-Multi-Vendor-TRENDnet/dp/B01C9O1T5O/r&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="9e0f5872-b624-47c9-b5d4-a73e0ae11917" CreationDate="2017-03-22T18:23:49.633" UserId="5866" Text="On my motherboard I have a PCIe v1.0 x16 slot. According to [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#History_and_revisions), it's able to transfer at ~4 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of getting a PCIe SSD (for example, [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/)), which is limited to ~3.8 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the SSD is made for PCIe v3.0 x4, which, despite also being limited to ~3.9 GB/s, poses a problem for me.  Since it's only using 4 slots (hence the x4), if I plug it directly into *my* PCIe slot, it'll be limited to ~1 GB/s (or a quarter of the speed). Why? Because I have a PCIe version 1.0, and the SSD is designed for 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter that will take my PCIe v1.0 x16 slot, at 4 GB/s, and give me a PCIE v3.0 x4 slot, at 3.9 GB/s?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21613" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="9e0f5872-b624-47c9-b5d4-a73e0ae11917" CreationDate="2017-03-22T18:23:49.633" UserId="5866" Text="Is there such a thing as an adapter between PCIe versions/sizes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21614" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="9e0f5872-b624-47c9-b5d4-a73e0ae11917" CreationDate="2017-03-22T18:23:49.633" UserId="5866" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="fcb30c08-c280-42d3-a563-d5c07304a6fe" CreationDate="2017-03-22T18:29:02.587" UserId="5866" Comment="Added a screenshot of the original post" Text="On my motherboard I have a PCIe v1.0 x16 slot. According to [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#History_and_revisions), it's able to transfer at ~4 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of getting a PCIe SSD (for example, [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/)), which is limited to ~3.8 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the SSD is made for PCIe v3.0 x4, which, despite also being limited to ~3.9 GB/s, poses a problem for me.  Since it's only using 4 slots (hence the x4), if I plug it directly into *my* PCIe slot, it'll be limited to ~1 GB/s (or a quarter of the speed). Why? Because I have a PCIe version 1.0, and the SSD is designed for 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter that will take my PCIe v1.0 x16 slot, at 4 GB/s, and give me a PCIE v3.0 x4 slot, at 3.9 GB/s?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;This was originally posted over at SuperUser [here](https://superuser.com/questions/1191311/is-there-such-a-thing-as-an-adapter-between-pcie-versions-sizes). Evidently it's off topic there :(, but as this site is still in beta, you can't migrate questions here IIRC.  There was a pretty extended discussion in the comments, so I'll include a screenshot of the post below.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Original Post][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKA2Y.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="bafb28b7-da47-4c61-87da-96ae00d45b57" CreationDate="2017-03-22T19:51:11.650" UserId="5866" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited title" Text="On my motherboard I have a PCIe v1.0 x16 slot. According to [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#History_and_revisions), it's able to transfer at ~4 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of getting a PCIe SSD (for example, [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/)), which is limited to ~3.8 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the SSD is made for PCIe v3.0 x4, which, despite also being limited to ~3.9 GB/s, poses a problem for me.  Since it's only using 4 slots (hence the x4), if I plug it directly into *my* PCIe slot, it'll be limited to ~1 GB/s (or a quarter of the speed). Why? Because I have a PCIe version 1.0, and the SSD is designed for 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is like an adapter that will take my PCIe v1.0 x16 slot, at 4 GB/s, and give me a PCIE v3.0 x4 slot, at 3.9 GB/s. &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;This was originally posted over at SuperUser [here](https://superuser.com/questions/1191311/is-there-such-a-thing-as-an-adapter-between-pcie-versions-sizes). Evidently it's off topic there :(, but as this site is still in beta, you can't migrate questions here IIRC.  There was a pretty extended discussion in the comments, so I'll include a screenshot of the post below.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Original Post][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKA2Y.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21617" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="bafb28b7-da47-4c61-87da-96ae00d45b57" CreationDate="2017-03-22T19:51:11.650" UserId="5866" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Adapter between PCIe versions/sizes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7109" RevisionGUID="dd0fd650-c909-419d-bd89-cb4c909875a9" CreationDate="2017-03-22T20:05:13.167" UserId="4523" Comment="added 133 characters in body" Text="On my motherboard I have a PCIe v1.0 x16 slot. According to [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#History_and_revisions), it's able to transfer at ~4 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of getting a PCIe SSD (for example, [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/)), which is limited to ~3.8 GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the SSD is made for PCIe v3.0 x4, which, despite also being limited to ~3.9 GB/s, poses a problem for me.  Since it's only using 4 slots (hence the x4), if I plug it directly into *my* PCIe slot, it'll be limited to ~1 GB/s (or a quarter of the speed). Why? Because I have a PCIe version 1.0, and the SSD is designed for 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter that will take my PCIe v1.0 x16 slot, at 4 GB/s, and give me a PCIE v3.0 x4 slot, at 3.9 GB/s?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, could someone recommend one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;This was originally posted over at SuperUser [here](https://superuser.com/questions/1191311/is-there-such-a-thing-as-an-adapter-between-pcie-versions-sizes). Evidently it's off topic there :(, but as this site is still in beta, you can't migrate questions here IIRC.  There was a pretty extended discussion in the comments, so I'll include a screenshot of the post below.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Original Post][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKA2Y.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7110" RevisionGUID="2bb1e68d-dee2-4a46-b604-0c0435dc0440" CreationDate="2017-03-22T20:12:07.027" UserId="4523" Text="There are no adapters. The reason being that the PCIe version is dictated by the chipset of the motherboard itself. The ONLY way to go from PCIe 1.0 to 3.0 is to buy a board with PCIe 3.0." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7106" RevisionGUID="e24779a1-4fa5-4dad-b693-536d9ce1552e" CreationDate="2017-03-22T20:28:20.927" UserId="5859" Comment="Fix a typo" Text="Some solutions I've found so far.  They are all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit&#xD;&#xA; - 16 ports&#xD;&#xA; - sold WITHOUT 10&quot; rack mounting kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit 561068][1].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 44 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Longshine LCS-GS8116-A][2].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.6 x 13.3 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ZyXEL GS-1100-16][3].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the rack mounting kit, I think (hope) that magnaroute LLC could come to the rescue, especially with that kind of product: [magnaroute LLC FX-17 Multi-Vendor Rack Mount Kit][4].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B018X9RU0W/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006GUN776/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0046BAVQ2/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/magnaroute-LLC-FX-17-Multi-Vendor-TRENDnet/dp/B01C9O1T5O/r&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21623" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7104" RevisionGUID="679b9996-f0a6-464b-8354-7d7a44ebe22f" CreationDate="2017-03-22T23:11:09.537" UserId="5859" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I've recently acquired a [Digitus DN-10-05U-1][1] (10&quot; wide compact rack) to setup my home's network.  Now I'd like to rack some proper 16 ports gigabit switch in there, but I'm really having a hard time finding anything fitting the cabinet.  Everything I could find so far was either too wide, too deep, not rackable, limited to 8 ports, apparently super cheap, ...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.digitus.info/en/products/network-and-server-cabinet-systems/wallmount-cabinets/unique-line/dn-10-05u-1/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21624" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7106" RevisionGUID="b836b9cf-cc1e-4a8b-938e-b651a48aae48" CreationDate="2017-03-23T00:55:44.207" UserId="5859" Comment="added 151 characters in body" Text="Some solutions I've found so far.  They are all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit&#xD;&#xA; - 16 ports&#xD;&#xA; - sold WITHOUT 10&quot; rack mounting kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit 561068][1].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 44 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Longshine LCS-GS8116-A][2].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 216 x 133 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ZyXEL GS-1100-16][3].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 215 x 133 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Buffalo BS-GU2016][4].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 215 x 13 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the rack mounting kit, I think (hope) that magnaroute LLC could come to the rescue, especially with that kind of product: [magnaroute LLC FX-17 Multi-Vendor Rack Mount Kit][5].&#xD;&#xA;[![magnaroute rack mount kit][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B018X9RU0W/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006GUN776/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0046BAVQ2/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-16-Port-Rackmount-Ethernet-BS-GU2016/dp/B00OLUJGDM/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/magnaroute-LLC-FX-17-Multi-Vendor-TRENDnet/dp/B01C9O1T5O/r&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21625" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7104" RevisionGUID="f536c052-8837-4d46-8472-7aab73a02ee6" CreationDate="2017-03-23T00:56:27.647" UserId="5859" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="I've recently acquired a [Digitus DN-10-05U-1][1] (10&quot; wide compact rack) to setup my home's network.  Now I'd like to rack some proper 16 ports gigabit switch in there, but I'm really having a hard time finding anything fitting the cabinet.  Everything I could find so far was either too wide, too deep, not rackable, limited to 8 ports, apparently super cheap, don't sell in my country (Belgium), ...  You name it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.digitus.info/en/products/network-and-server-cabinet-systems/wallmount-cabinets/unique-line/dn-10-05u-1/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7106" RevisionGUID="6ece3696-a59e-421f-b9e2-5d728d899272" CreationDate="2017-03-23T01:20:20.707" UserId="5859" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="Some solutions I've found so far.  They are all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit&#xD;&#xA; - 16 ports&#xD;&#xA; - sold WITHOUT 10&quot; rack mounting kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit 561068][1].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 44 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Longshine LCS-GS8116-A][2].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 216 x 133 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ZyXEL GS-1100-16][3].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 215 x 133 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Buffalo BS-GU2016][4].  &#xD;&#xA;L x W x H: 215 x 13 x 42 millimeters&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the rack mounting kit, I think (hope) that magnaroute LLC could come to the rescue, especially with that kind of product: [magnaroute LLC FX-17 Multi-Vendor Rack Mount Kit][5].&#xD;&#xA;[![magnaroute rack mount kit][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;The other option is to pick a product that ships with 19&quot; rack mount kit and adapt the kit (cut and pierce).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B018X9RU0W/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006GUN776/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0046BAVQ2/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-16-Port-Rackmount-Ethernet-BS-GU2016/dp/B00OLUJGDM/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/magnaroute-LLC-FX-17-Multi-Vendor-TRENDnet/dp/B01C9O1T5O/r&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="c632511b-5973-42a6-9df2-46703a7ab80c" CreationDate="2017-03-23T01:58:31.340" UserId="4933" Comment="edited body" Text="The following power supply units on Ebuyer are described as being &quot;fully wired&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Ace Black 120mm Fan 550W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/566862-ace-black-120mm-fan-550w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psuace550br)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT 450W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/159705-cit-450w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psucit450ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[PowerCool 850W Fully Wired 80+ Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/151296-powercool-850w-fully-wired-80-power-supply-pc850aubab)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CIT Dual Rail 480W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply](http://www.ebuyer.com/158481-cit-dual-rail-480w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-480ub)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching Google for what exactly this means brings up results for modular PSUs, but [this PSU here](http://www.ebuyer.com/621475-builder-500w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psu500builderblack) is described as being &quot;fully wired&quot; while also not being modular at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing I can think of that &quot;fully wired&quot; would describe would be a PSU that comes wired, but to me that seems about as odd a selling point as a car that comes with wheels. :-) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**When buying a PSU, what exactly does &quot;fully wired&quot; mean?**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7111" RevisionGUID="67e87639-fd54-41df-8d19-645969564aeb" CreationDate="2017-03-23T03:47:39.403" UserId="3980" Text="Your question is borderline &quot;Primarily Opinion Based&quot;, but I'll try to make my recommendation as objective as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering your $200 budget. Your best bet will probably be a **GTX 1060 3GB (mini)**. You can find one [like this card offered by Gigabyte.][1] for about $185 on Amazon, or for [about $195 on Newegg][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons for my Recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fits all of your [measurable] requirements: costs &lt; $200, [supports HEVC][3] and both Amazon and Newegg provide international shipping.&#xD;&#xA; - Also, according to Passmark which provides benchmarks that I find to be reasonably reputable, the [GTX 1060 mini][4] outperforms both the [RX460][5] and [GTX 1050ti][6] by a sizable amount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be difficult to determine how &quot;future-proof&quot; this card will be. However, if you plan on playing games with similar performance requirements over the next few years, you should expect similar performance. As for providing decent quality in gaming, this can be difficult to determine as &quot;decent quality&quot; is subjective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: You didn't mention the other components in your build. Before making your purchase, you should ensure that your PSU and motherboard are compatible and [ideally] you should check that your other hardware does not bottleneck your GPU selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KQUD9U6/ref=twister_B01M0681S0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814125905&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/981372/geforce-basics/which-gpus-support-hevc-a-k-a-h-265-/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce%20GTX%201060%203GB&amp;id=3566&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon%20RX%20460&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce%20GTX%201050%20Ti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="8717fc48-39b6-4543-858b-0fe5a0ea6741" CreationDate="2017-03-23T05:34:26.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21632" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="cd4e3431-7998-413e-a170-fae0c0e8b0a8" CreationDate="2017-03-23T06:34:43.620" UserId="-1" Comment="54" />
  <row Id="21635" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7112" RevisionGUID="c9a0274d-5ced-4aba-95d0-678681436149" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:04:48.587" UserId="5875" Text="I have an alienware X51 with Windows 10 installed in a HDD. I plan to buy a new SSD and install the latest version of Kubuntu (16.10 Yaketty Yak) on it. Ideally, I would like to preserve the dual-boot: win10 and kubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On this regard, I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Which SSD would you recommend me to buy and from where? (~250GB should be enough; I live in Belgium) Which cables do I need?&#xD;&#xA;  - Is there any good tutorial on how to &quot;physically&quot; install the SDD?&#xD;&#xA;  - Is there any good tutorial on how to setup the SDD with kubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would really appreciate any suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21636" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7112" RevisionGUID="c9a0274d-5ced-4aba-95d0-678681436149" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:04:48.587" UserId="5875" Text="Alienware X51 &amp; SSD &amp; Kubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21637" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7112" RevisionGUID="c9a0274d-5ced-4aba-95d0-678681436149" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:04:48.587" UserId="5875" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7112" RevisionGUID="cf642612-7999-478c-8a9b-ec51ae14e4a4" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:05:42.590" UserId="57" Comment="Removed the non-hardware recs questions" Text="I have an alienware X51 with Windows 10 installed in a HDD. I plan to buy a new SSD and install the latest version of Kubuntu (16.10 Yaketty Yak) on it. Ideally, I would like to preserve the dual-boot: win10 and kubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On this regard, I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Which SSD would you recommend me to buy and from where? (~250GB should be enough; I live in Belgium) Which cables do I need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would really appreciate any suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7112" RevisionGUID="f9711a9a-ad86-4d1b-b2e8-aae0008adc66" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:20:15.580" UserId="5875" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I have an alienware X51 with Windows 10 installed in a HDD. I plan to buy a new SSD and install the latest version of Kubuntu (16.10 Yaketty Yak) on it. Ideally, I would like to preserve the dual-boot: win10 and kubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On this regard, I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Which SSD would you recommend me to buy and from where? (~250GB should be enough; I live in Belgium) Which cables do I need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aprox. budget: 300 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would really appreciate any suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21640" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5600" RevisionGUID="a4e3d4df-4a37-4ef3-977c-fb1394395a1d" CreationDate="2017-03-23T15:35:43.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7113" RevisionGUID="aabe4940-f338-4032-ba95-8b2b8fa06ae3" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:15:44.797" UserId="5876" Text="I have an old pc with a 3rd generation i7 3370, 1155 socket. My problem is that my motherboard seems to be in the end of its life, and I want to change it before it's too late. I'm not planning on upgrading my cpu, so if you guys can recommend me a good motherboard that is also good for gaming, becuase I have an 750gtx ti on this machine, it will be appreciated. By the way, I don't have a budget but I don't to spend more than 150$ on this. Thanks for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21642" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7113" RevisionGUID="aabe4940-f338-4032-ba95-8b2b8fa06ae3" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:15:44.797" UserId="5876" Text="Motherboard recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21643" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7113" RevisionGUID="aabe4940-f338-4032-ba95-8b2b8fa06ae3" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:15:44.797" UserId="5876" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7114" RevisionGUID="bdedf668-66a9-4587-b49c-21733f8db0ef" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:27:31.990" UserId="5877" Text="I am majoring in ee in college. There are specific laptop requirements given, which are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A 64 bit version of Windows (recommended), Linux, or Mac OS.&#xD;&#xA; - A 64 bit dual core processor from AMD or Intel (i7 Intel or AMD Phenom II recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - 4 Gigabytes of RAM with capacity to upgrade (8 gigs recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - 12 inch or larger screen with resolution of 1366x768 or higher&#xD;&#xA; - NVidia (recommended), AMD (recommended), or Intel integrated graphics processor &#xD;&#xA; - USB 2.0 ports (3.0 recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in or add-on 100 Mbit wired Ethernet (integrated 1,000 Mbit wired ethernet recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Hard disk with 256 Gigabyte capacity (512 recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Touch screen recommended&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They recommended any model of: Lenovo ThinkPad, Lenovo Yoga, Dell Latitude, Dell Precision, HP EliteBook, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone help me find a laptop that isn't too expensive (&lt;~$1500) that satisfies these requirements or could recommend a favorite model out of this list? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you so much!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21645" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7114" RevisionGUID="bdedf668-66a9-4587-b49c-21733f8db0ef" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:27:31.990" UserId="5877" Text="Recommendation for Laptop for College?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21646" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7114" RevisionGUID="bdedf668-66a9-4587-b49c-21733f8db0ef" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:27:31.990" UserId="5877" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7113" RevisionGUID="438e2984-bf46-48ba-a1ff-a95424e788ee" CreationDate="2017-03-23T19:57:07.767" UserId="5876" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have an old pc with a 3rd generation i7 3370, 1155 socket. My problem is that my motherboard seems to be in the end of its life, and I want to change it before it's too late. I'm not planning on upgrading my cpu, so if you guys can recommend me a good motherboard that is also good for gaming, becuase I have an 750gtx ti on this machine, it will be appreciated. By the way, I don't have a budget but I don't want to spend more than 150$ on this. Thanks for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21655" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6166" RevisionGUID="e8e486ba-72ed-43ba-9596-cc42a936781e" CreationDate="2017-03-23T20:50:33.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7114" RevisionGUID="19f5e200-de5d-4b57-b1ea-460d651278d7" CreationDate="2017-03-23T21:50:00.733" UserId="5877" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="I am majoring in ee in college. There are specific laptop requirements given, which are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A 64 bit version of Windows (recommended), Linux, or Mac OS.&#xD;&#xA; - A 64 bit dual core processor from AMD or Intel (i7 Intel or AMD Phenom II recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - 4 Gigabytes of RAM with capacity to upgrade (8 gigs recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - 12 inch or larger screen with resolution of 1366x768 or higher&#xD;&#xA; - NVidia (recommended), AMD (recommended), or Intel integrated graphics processor &#xD;&#xA; - USB 2.0 ports (3.0 recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in or add-on 100 Mbit wired Ethernet (integrated 1,000 Mbit wired ethernet recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Hard disk with 256 Gigabyte capacity (512 recommended)&#xD;&#xA; - Touch screen recommended&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They recommended any model of: Lenovo ThinkPad, Lenovo Yoga, Dell Latitude, Dell Precision, HP EliteBook, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone help me find a laptop that isn't too expensive (&lt;~$1500) that satisfies these requirements or could recommend a favorite model out of this list? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you so much! This is really needed, any reply would be immensely helpful. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21657" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="b9586679-bd6f-4131-ba07-04210ae8fc67" CreationDate="2017-03-23T23:50:32.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7118" RevisionGUID="e31898b1-8cca-4496-a2f7-d9523ecaff0b" CreationDate="2017-03-24T03:39:56.553" UserId="5312" Text="This shouldn't be too hard, considering that these requirements are fairly basic... As long as you don't go with a mac (SO OVERPRICED!!!!!!!!!!!!), you should be fine. I would recommend a Lenovo Ideapad Y700 $1000 - $1600 15&quot; model, as they're quite good and not too overpriced, and satisfy the specs quite easily, though you won't get an SSD until the $1600 model, but that also has 1TB of HDD storage as well as the 512GB PCI-E-based SSD, 16GB RAM as opposed to 8GB, and an extra 2GB of Video RAM for the GPU, which is a GTX 960M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To find these, go to Lenovo.com and navigate to Products &gt; Laptops &gt; Ideapad &gt; Y700 Series. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the 960M, you can also get some fairly decent performance if you're a gamer, though you won't be able to run games on ultra settings at stable frame-rates, it'll be all you'll really need for a laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7119" RevisionGUID="d9ba7f35-362b-407d-b59d-c313f82ac6d9" CreationDate="2017-03-24T05:09:53.397" UserId="3980" Text="Personally, I would recommend Dell's New [Inspiron 15 7000 Gaming laptop][1], more specifically, the [1,149.99 model][2]. Yes, it is a gaming laptop, but it provides good performance at a relatively low cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons for my recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Fits all Your Provided Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a 64bit OS (Windows 10 Pro)&#xD;&#xA; - CPU supports 64bit OSes: i7 7700HQ (4core/8thread)&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB DDR4 RAM, upgradable to 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; Display - 1080p&#xD;&#xA; - nVIDIAGTX 1050ti GPU w./ 4gb of vRAM&#xD;&#xA; - 3x USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 2x Internal Harddisks: 1x 256GB SSD &amp; 1x 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It does not have a touch-screen, but you did not specify it as being absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/inspiron-15-7567-laptop/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/inspiron-15-7567-laptop/pd?oc=cai157w10p7s510&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-7567-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dMObz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21673" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7113" RevisionGUID="e9068c82-e77d-4b39-b014-41c44ea52d6a" CreationDate="2017-03-24T13:42:47.207" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21676" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6909" RevisionGUID="5cbb521c-c009-459a-96ae-b82ed3c0d0d0" CreationDate="2017-03-24T15:16:56.703" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21677" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="69c059ed-2cc8-4edb-80cd-dada130f5457" CreationDate="2017-03-24T16:16:56.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7123" RevisionGUID="1f6d82ec-7edc-4332-ba70-9d135e856265" CreationDate="2017-03-24T18:25:50.547" UserId="5895" Text="I use a Lenovo Yoga 700 for my school work. While I do not have the higher model it can have an i7 fitted. The laptop comes with 8gb of ram and has a touch screen. &#xD;&#xA;In my experiance it is a very useful laptop, difficult to game on, it does not possess a fan. While this is down to the fact it is rather small and light, yet also the size of an A4 sheet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21687" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="7e0c87a2-b945-44e2-845f-f34ca3625603" CreationDate="2017-03-24T21:20:05.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="9ebeed89-d61e-421e-81df-5bd91589d60f" CreationDate="2017-03-25T07:26:24.653" UserId="5445" Text="FreedomPop is an MVNO cell phone service that offers a free cell phone plan with 200 minutes, 500 texts, and 500 MB worth of data.  (And you can set it up so it cuts off once you reach the limit, rather than getting hit with overage fees.)  So if you buy a mobile hotspot from them, like [this one](https://shop.freedompop.com/product/used-netgear-fuse-4g-lte-mobile-hotspot-cdma/NTG-AC779SR) for $30,  you have device that entitles you to 500 MB per month of free data for life (or more realistically until they go out of business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, do any other cell phone services sell mobile hotspots that entitle you to free monthly data forever?  The only other MVNO cell phone service I know of that has a free cell phone plan is [CellNuvo](https://cellnuvo.com/), but they don't sell mobile hotspots, only cell phones, and their cheapest cell phone is $40 with a $29 activation fee.  (There was another MVNO with a great free cell phone plan called RingPlus, but they recently went out of business.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="9ebeed89-d61e-421e-81df-5bd91589d60f" CreationDate="2017-03-25T07:26:24.653" UserId="5445" Text="A mobile hotspot that entitles you to free monthly data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="9ebeed89-d61e-421e-81df-5bd91589d60f" CreationDate="2017-03-25T07:26:24.653" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21693" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="44971b59-f4c2-4334-9389-1cd4a3199d89" CreationDate="2017-03-25T09:37:13.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7118" RevisionGUID="658b8ee4-9428-4210-af40-c6f675020ed5" CreationDate="2017-03-25T14:11:23.837" UserId="3980" Comment="Added hyperlink under, &quot;To find these&quot;" Text="This shouldn't be too hard, considering that these requirements are fairly basic... As long as you don't go with a mac (SO OVERPRICED!!!!!!!!!!!!), you should be fine. I would recommend a Lenovo Ideapad Y700 $1000 - $1600 15&quot; model, as they're quite good and not too overpriced, and satisfy the specs quite easily, though you won't get an SSD until the $1600 model, but that also has 1TB of HDD storage as well as the 512GB PCI-E-based SSD, 16GB RAM as opposed to 8GB, and an extra 2GB of Video RAM for the GPU, which is a GTX 960M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To find these, go to Lenovo.com and navigate to Products &gt; Laptops &gt; Ideapad &gt; [Y700 Series][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the 960M, you can also get some fairly decent performance if you're a gamer, though you won't be able to run games on ultra settings at stable frame-rates, it'll be all you'll really need for a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/y700-series/?menu-id=y700_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21703" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7118" RevisionGUID="658b8ee4-9428-4210-af40-c6f675020ed5" CreationDate="2017-03-25T14:11:23.837" Comment="Proposed by 3980 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 582" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21704" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7118" RevisionGUID="b1a84813-9957-4db2-b14b-417720cf7886" CreationDate="2017-03-25T14:11:23.837" UserId="8" Comment="Added hyperlink under, &quot;To find these&quot;" Text="This shouldn't be too hard, considering that these requirements are fairly basic... As long as you don't go with a mac (they're overpriced), you should be fine. I would recommend a Lenovo Ideapad Y700 $1000 - $1600 15&quot; model, as they're quite good and not too overpriced, and satisfy the specs quite easily, though you won't get an SSD until the $1600 model, but that also has 1TB of HDD storage as well as the 512GB PCI-E-based SSD, 16GB RAM as opposed to 8GB, and an extra 2GB of Video RAM for the GPU, which is a GTX 960M.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To find these, go to Lenovo.com and navigate to Products &gt; Laptops &gt; Ideapad &gt; [Y700 Series][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the 960M, you can also get some fairly decent performance if you're a gamer, though you won't be able to run games on ultra settings at stable frame-rates, it'll be all you'll really need for a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/y700-series/?menu-id=y700_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="5343f47a-4c88-45ef-b3bc-0a5ef2804a26" CreationDate="2017-03-25T17:51:18.227" UserId="5445" Text="When the Voice over IP company Ooma started, it sold a VoIP home phone that enabled free unlimited calling.  But as it grew, it started charging a variety of monthly fees and taxes, although it grandfathered in people who bought the original product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, are there any VoIP home phones that really do what Ooma started off doing, i.e. enable free unlimited calling with absolutely no monthly or annual fees or taxes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21706" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="5343f47a-4c88-45ef-b3bc-0a5ef2804a26" CreationDate="2017-03-25T17:51:18.227" UserId="5445" Text="A VoIP home phone that enables free unlimited calling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21707" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="5343f47a-4c88-45ef-b3bc-0a5ef2804a26" CreationDate="2017-03-25T17:51:18.227" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21708" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="5d206665-a793-434c-8dfa-7d9d0c95d5c9" CreationDate="2017-03-25T20:54:11.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="216d4c3a-2795-4666-8c50-aa0942225a4b" CreationDate="2017-03-25T21:54:11.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21715" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="ea2a0f6c-5358-4a08-933e-417465317fa1" CreationDate="2017-03-26T23:39:06.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21716" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="4311f9bb-d8a8-4213-890c-78d8a684fcd3" CreationDate="2017-03-27T00:46:11.820" UserId="-1" Comment="from http://serverfault.com/questions/840216/convenient-portable-hardware-for-temporary-physical-access" />
  <row Id="21717" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="48129db7-0a11-42ff-a54d-5c69f67b38e5" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:22:21.157" UserDisplayName="Pete" Text="I work with industrial PCs built into large pieces of machinery. Most of our deployment process happens over the network, but the first steps need physical monitor/keyboard access to set some BIOS options, enable PXE boot, etc. I do this on the shop floor, standing next to or sometimes actually inside the machinery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently the hardware I use is no more sophisticated than a cast-off office monitor and USB keyboard. The monitor in particular is unwieldy, at risk of damage, and far larger than it needs to be. Balancing a desk stand on top of a hydraulic actuator and securing the screen in place with scrap cable is hardly professional...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anybody here aware of a device that provides a small HDMI monitor and a USB keyboard and ideally pointing device, in a compact, portable, and possibly somewhat rugged form factor? I'm picturing something like a 10&quot; or 12&quot; laptop but with no brains of its own, just an HDMI input and USB B connector. In fact, having a range of video inputs would probably be valuable, though the kit I'm working with right now is HDMI. A battery would be useful too, though not essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course similar things exist in 19&quot; rack form for use in a datacentre, but my datacentre is a factory floor..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21718" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="48129db7-0a11-42ff-a54d-5c69f67b38e5" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:22:21.157" UserDisplayName="Pete" Text="Convenient portable hardware for temporary physical access?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21719" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="48129db7-0a11-42ff-a54d-5c69f67b38e5" CreationDate="2017-03-23T16:22:21.157" UserDisplayName="Pete" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21721" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="ba857901-c684-45d1-a189-73d7bb133977" CreationDate="2017-03-27T13:55:44.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21722" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="71204647-870a-4689-a5f2-021155e0dc69" CreationDate="2017-03-27T14:46:25.080" UserId="5445" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="FreedomPop is an MVNO cell phone service that offers a free cell phone plan with 200 minutes, 500 texts, and 500 MB worth of data.  (And you can set it up so it cuts off once you reach the limit, rather than getting hit with overage fees.)  So if you buy a mobile hotspot from them, like [this one](https://shop.freedompop.com/product/used-netgear-fuse-4g-lte-mobile-hotspot-cdma/NTG-AC779SR) for $30,  you have a device that entitles you to 500 MB per month of free data for life (or more realistically until they go out of business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, do any other cell phone services sell mobile hotspots that entitle you to free monthly data forever?  The only other MVNO cell phone service I know of that has a free cell phone plan is [CellNuvo](https://cellnuvo.com/), but they don't sell mobile hotspots, only cell phones, and their cheapest cell phone is $40 with a $29 activation fee.  (There was another MVNO with a great free cell phone plan called RingPlus, but they recently went out of business.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21723" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7131" RevisionGUID="5cc62235-c82a-4e51-93ed-c1e07237306c" CreationDate="2017-03-27T19:03:52.210" UserId="5325" Text="I recently bought a Netgear X6 Nighthawk R8000 AC3200 router. It is a piece of crap. I'm looking for a non-expensive replacement for this router. I live in a small apartment sharing the WiFi spectrum with 7+ other networks. I'm looking for one with a strong signal and 802.11ac that will not be interrupted from other people's networks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21724" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7131" RevisionGUID="5cc62235-c82a-4e51-93ed-c1e07237306c" CreationDate="2017-03-27T19:03:52.210" UserId="5325" Text="Router for small apartment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21725" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7131" RevisionGUID="5cc62235-c82a-4e51-93ed-c1e07237306c" CreationDate="2017-03-27T19:03:52.210" UserId="5325" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7132" RevisionGUID="0c59acb7-89de-4ced-a6e2-09536784b808" CreationDate="2017-03-27T20:55:30.887" UserId="5325" Text="I decided to go with the Ubiquity UAP-AC-PRO-US access point since my modem is a router and I can just literally connect to it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7133" RevisionGUID="636c4e33-e3b5-4e70-b82b-1ddc52da71be" CreationDate="2017-03-27T21:49:45.110" UserId="5913" Text="AOC makes a range of USB-powered monitors.  They incorporate the GPU right into them, and should be backwards-compatible with any machine.  Pair this with a powered hub, beefy USB power bank (to power the hub), and dongled keyboard / mouse, and you'll have an amazingly versatile and portable setup.  Use a few pieces of adhesive velcro to fasten the hub to the battery bank.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/AOC-e1759Fwu-1600x900-Brightness-3-0-Powered/dp/B00LPC3U8Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490651024&amp;sr=8-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Adapter-Charger-Included/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490651137&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery bank: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Ultra-Compact-High-speed-Technology/dp/B0194WDVHI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490651174&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard/mouse: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-KM117-Wireless-Keyboard-Mouse/dp/B01LOORNLY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490651230&amp;sr=1-9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21728" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7131" RevisionGUID="b6163b36-636f-4c7f-ad9a-34bfa63b17ff" CreationDate="2017-03-27T22:27:24.663" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="3ba8a3a5-e0e2-4ccd-8ad7-46688f7b3b68" CreationDate="2017-03-28T07:57:27.493" UserId="5445" Comment="added 275 characters in body" Text="FreedomPop is an MVNO cell phone service that offers a free cell phone plan with 200 minutes, 500 texts, and 500 MB worth of data.  (And you can set it up so it cuts off once you reach the limit, rather than getting hit with overage fees.)  So if you buy a mobile hotspot from them, like [this one](https://shop.freedompop.com/product/used-netgear-fuse-4g-lte-mobile-hotspot-cdma/NTG-AC779SR) for $30,  you have a device that entitles you to 500 MB per month of free data for life (or more realistically until they go out of business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, do any other cell phone services sell mobile hotspots that entitle you to free monthly data forever?  The only other MVNO cell phone service I know of that has a free cell phone plan is [CellNuvo](https://cellnuvo.com/), but they don't sell mobile hotspots, only cell phones, and their cheapest cell phone is $40 with a $29 activation fee.  (There was another MVNO with a great free cell phone plan called RingPlus, but they recently went out of business.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I don't really have a budget, but of course the cheaper the better, and the more free data per month the better.  As I said above, FreedomPop offers a device that costs $30 and gives 500 MB per month, so preferably I want something that': better than that in or of both of those dimensions.  Also, I live in New Jersey, so that's going to be the main place I use it in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21733" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="8ec9bfa5-a34d-4a29-9fff-516d3a8e4613" CreationDate="2017-03-28T08:06:59.527" UserId="5445" Comment="edited title" Text="An inside-out tracking VR headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7135" RevisionGUID="34f20dcb-132c-44be-96fd-8aac23081931" CreationDate="2017-03-28T13:34:51.017" UserId="5918" Text="My PC Build is :&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Intel i7 6700K &lt;br&gt;&#xA;ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING Mobo&lt;br&gt;&#xA;32GB RAM (Corsair Vengence 4x8GB)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ASUS NVIDIA 1070 GTX DUAL&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Antec VP600P PSU&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&#xA;I am planning to get another 1070 GTX card for SLI, will the existing PSU support is sufficient for 2 way SLI or should i upgrade my PSU also?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21740" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7135" RevisionGUID="34f20dcb-132c-44be-96fd-8aac23081931" CreationDate="2017-03-28T13:34:51.017" UserId="5918" Text="NVIDIA SLI Power Supply Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21741" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7135" RevisionGUID="34f20dcb-132c-44be-96fd-8aac23081931" CreationDate="2017-03-28T13:34:51.017" UserId="5918" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7136" RevisionGUID="59c5e7ca-a2ad-4e26-a5ac-8de515eeb57d" CreationDate="2017-03-28T14:05:16.747" UserId="5913" Text="According to http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/feature/pc-components/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-vs-gtx-1070-vs-gtx-1060-3640925/, the 1070GTX has a TDP of 150W.  This is the amount of heat a component produces -- which with solid-state circuitry is conveniently the amount of wattage it draws, 1-to-1.  Doubling that (for two of them), gives you 300W.  If we assume that's all on the 12V rail (worst-case scenario), you're asking for 25A from your power supply.  Your CPU has a TDP of 91W, and lets go absolute-worst-case scenario and say your motherboard is 89W to make the math easy.  This is a further 180W of power draw, or 15A @ 12V.  I don't know if it's all from the 12V line, but this is the worst-case scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A single rail (your PSU provides two) produces 30A at 12V, and a maximum of 540W @ 12V combined.  Going from my worst case scenario, you are at 300+180W, or 480W of a maximum 540W.  Antec quotes a 100,000h MTBF @ full load -- which means you can go bigger still.  Your PSU can actually provide enough power for your CPU @ 100% load, several HDDs &amp; fans, and a pair of stock-clocked 1080GTXs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7137" RevisionGUID="8edf2e94-2d65-4ee4-b72f-1cc215a26489" CreationDate="2017-03-28T14:12:37.923" UserId="5919" Text="We're doing a commercial LED installation with some industrial-grade LEDs that are DMX compatible. We need a controller that receive real-time input from a computer to change it's color/brightness/etc. It's a small number of lights in an indoor space. Ideally it uses WiFi, but we can do a hardwired connection without much difficulty. Everything I've looked at so far is either a hobbyist machine or a light show player." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21744" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7137" RevisionGUID="8edf2e94-2d65-4ee4-b72f-1cc215a26489" CreationDate="2017-03-28T14:12:37.923" UserId="5919" Text="UL certified, DMX compatible programmable LED controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21745" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7137" RevisionGUID="8edf2e94-2d65-4ee4-b72f-1cc215a26489" CreationDate="2017-03-28T14:12:37.923" UserId="5919" Text="&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7138" RevisionGUID="59853f78-e3c4-4983-93bc-d22168628388" CreationDate="2017-03-28T17:47:15.593" UserId="5358" Text="I gather from your question that you have not worked with DMX controlled LEDs before. As a theater technician, I have used DMX controlled LEDs, and have to use a DMX controller like the one you are describing. Personally, I have worked with [this one][1] from Joyland to power up to 3 5m strips of RGBW LED tape.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To provide some more insight, I will assume you are using RGBW (4 color) LED tape. To control this via DMX (also called DMX512), you will need a 4 channel controller like the one I linked above. The controllers get a 12v power supply in, as well as DMX data through ethernet (RJ45) ports. This means you will also need a DMX512(5-pin XLR) - ethernet (RJ45) adapters. You can daisy-chain the controllers with Cat5e or Cat6 cables. To control them via DMX, you will have to assign addresses to the controllers control them from a DMX control device (such as a lighting console). If you didn't understand most of this second paragraph, I would suggest doing more research on DMX control or talking to someone who has worked with DMX control before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/JOYLAND-Channel-Digital-Display-Controller/dp/B00WG3HV4W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490722369&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dmx%20decoder%204%20channel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21747" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7135" RevisionGUID="628d3649-ac1b-4d58-ad7e-eb3620611684" CreationDate="2017-03-28T20:53:08.670" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7139" RevisionGUID="0ef1f866-b021-4c45-a0d2-e761992e5a82" CreationDate="2017-03-28T21:19:50.880" UserId="2143" Text="my old system is now more then 7 years old and has, with some updates over time, this components:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge  &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)  &#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics card: EVGA - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti  &#xD;&#xA;    Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W  &#xD;&#xA;    case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;My work is in the field of software development with also rendering videos and 3D animations. Unfortunately, my own system lacks in power, so on big projects I outsource the rendering part.  &#xD;&#xA;But I thought to myself, that after 7 years I can afford a new system with more power, that maybe also can hold 7 years or more (of course depending on the hardware progress).  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;By problem: I am not good in hardware knowledge.  &#xD;&#xA;I barley know the main things so I sat down, read some articles and came up with this first attempt of a new computer:  &#xD;&#xA;https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Gp2W7h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Questions:  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;1. I am not sure with the storage. I am planning to use a SSD M2 with a RAID0 including two Western Digital 2TB. Is this something that should be used in a client desktop PC? Or should I use a SSD with a normal SSHD?&#xD;&#xA;1. Should I additionally use a Intel Optane? Or is the new M2 something similar?&#xD;&#xA;1. And Should I use two GTX 980 Ti in SLI, or one single GTX 1080 (normal, no Ti)&#xD;&#xA;1. Is the cooling system I thought of enough for this computer? I am not a big fan of water cooling, but maybe it is necessary? I hope not, but I am willing to learn...&#xD;&#xA;1. What do you think in general of the system? &#xD;&#xA;1. Where do you think is the problem zone in this system? So what part is the weakest and pulls down the rest?  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Sorry for my bad hardware knowledge. I hope, you understand, that not everybody must be an expert in everything. I have my strong points in other areas ;)  &#xD;&#xA;Also thanks for any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21750" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7139" RevisionGUID="0ef1f866-b021-4c45-a0d2-e761992e5a82" CreationDate="2017-03-28T21:19:50.880" UserId="2143" Text="New tower system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21751" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7139" RevisionGUID="0ef1f866-b021-4c45-a0d2-e761992e5a82" CreationDate="2017-03-28T21:19:50.880" UserId="2143" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7140" RevisionGUID="c3df1667-578c-43bd-ab33-0d4083731e91" CreationDate="2017-03-28T22:47:31.293" UserId="5921" Text="Could you suggest a proper 512GB replacement for 256GB Samsung MZ-NTY2560 SSD (standart drive in Samsung Notebook 9 2017)?&#xD;&#xA;All options I saw like Samsung 960 Pro make me uncertain about their interchangeability.&#xD;&#xA;It's a bit expensive to make a mistake buying this piece, so please excuse my desire to get sure despite of Wikipedia articles about M.2." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21753" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7140" RevisionGUID="c3df1667-578c-43bd-ab33-0d4083731e91" CreationDate="2017-03-28T22:47:31.293" UserId="5921" Text="SSD: Samsung MZ-NTY2560 but with 512GB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21754" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7140" RevisionGUID="c3df1667-578c-43bd-ab33-0d4083731e91" CreationDate="2017-03-28T22:47:31.293" UserId="5921" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21759" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7140" RevisionGUID="63262776-56d9-4fcd-b89a-19a19ed62958" CreationDate="2017-03-29T00:10:50.710" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21760" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7139" RevisionGUID="9bba017d-82d7-46fe-aa39-bfb660e314cf" CreationDate="2017-03-29T00:11:18.083" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21761" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="72da5360-5ae3-4521-bdfc-636a6cecbfa4" CreationDate="2017-03-29T02:12:39.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7145" RevisionGUID="e6ab3b0e-e4fb-46bb-953f-23af34833cf1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T14:52:14.477" UserId="5930" Text="My father-in-law suffers from Retinitis Pigmentosa. It's an inherited disease of the retina where the rods and cones (the light sensing cells) on the periphery of your retina gradually start dying. Your field of vision gets narrower and narrower and narrower until you become blind. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We were at a treatment center yesterday for people with inherited retinal diseases, and one thing we saw was this setup where they used a camera to look down on something, like a newspaper, and display it on a large screen to give people the ability to read. It also did a lot of other things that for my father-in-law's case wasn't necessary. The device was very expensive and I was of the thought that I could put something together for cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping that someone could share some recommendations for webcams that I would mount on a little stand. Image quality is critical. &#xD;&#xA;His eyes get tired after looking at computer screens too so I was thinking about maybe using a projector to project the image on a nearby wall. I definitely don't know anything about projectors and could use some suggestions here too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for any help,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;mj " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21777" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7145" RevisionGUID="e6ab3b0e-e4fb-46bb-953f-23af34833cf1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T14:52:14.477" UserId="5930" Text="High Resolution Webcam and Projector for Near-Blind Individual" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21778" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7145" RevisionGUID="e6ab3b0e-e4fb-46bb-953f-23af34833cf1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T14:52:14.477" UserId="5930" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21779" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7145" RevisionGUID="781d918a-4843-4829-b9ed-8fc30739d260" CreationDate="2017-03-29T18:18:59.323" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7146" RevisionGUID="e1966613-03ba-4184-8918-94aa397677af" CreationDate="2017-03-29T18:24:12.800" UserId="5931" Text="I need a computer that comes with a Bluetooth antenna, GPIO pins (only need one 5v output to trigger a door), ethernet port, and can execute .NET code that I have developed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently experimenting with a raspberry PI 3 but I'm afraid it wont be able to handle the desert heat. It regularly hits 120F during the summer, inside a metal housing can reach up to 150F on a hot day. It also rains but I figured a good housing could prevent issues with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7146" RevisionGUID="e1966613-03ba-4184-8918-94aa397677af" CreationDate="2017-03-29T18:24:12.800" UserId="5931" Text="Outdoor Bluetooth scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7146" RevisionGUID="e1966613-03ba-4184-8918-94aa397677af" CreationDate="2017-03-29T18:24:12.800" UserId="5931" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="e44ef1bf-3536-4060-810f-3e16dee3a292" CreationDate="2017-03-29T19:53:30.540" UserId="5932" Text="I have a desktop computer I use solely for work. It has multiple monitors. I'd like to get a graphics card for the sole purpose of making multi-monitor as painless as possible. So my criteria are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Must have excellent Linux support. Easily available drivers, good documentation online, as few known issues as possible, and as little troubleshooting required as possible.&#xD;&#xA;* Must have multiple ports for multiple monitors.&#xD;&#xA;* Power doesn't matter. I don't play games or do heavy 3D graphics, and if I want to do GPU computation, I can just use it as a slow test machine when developing but then do my heavy lifting on a beefier machine (like dedicated supercomputer).&#xD;&#xA;* Something cheap ($100-200 or less) is preferred - often the premium on GPUs is for performance and being on the cutting edge. Given that I am interested in neither of these things, I'd rather not overspend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question should be applicable to the many other professional Linux users, but I would appreciate an extra sentence or two in your answer pointing to something that's suited to me in particular. The details of my setup are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H motherboard&#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB ram&#xD;&#xA;* i7-4790K&#xD;&#xA;* Two Dell monitors, both 1920x1080. Dell 1907FPV (resolution detected incorrectly) and U2312HM.&#xD;&#xA;* On board graphics driving both monitors, one through DVI and one through VGA&#xD;&#xA;* Manjaro Linux with the Cinnamon spin and compton. Manjaro is arch-based and pretty popular at #3 on distrowatch, but I think it's worth considering the Debian/Ubuntu situation as well with regard to compatibility since those are more popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What cheap, decent graphics card can I buy to drive my monitors with the fewest driver, configuration and troubleshooting issues?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="e44ef1bf-3536-4060-810f-3e16dee3a292" CreationDate="2017-03-29T19:53:30.540" UserId="5932" Text="GPU linux workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="e44ef1bf-3536-4060-810f-3e16dee3a292" CreationDate="2017-03-29T19:53:30.540" UserId="5932" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="499b8ba0-79f1-40b9-83f2-f51b50aae948" CreationDate="2017-03-29T20:18:32.477" UserId="5933" Text="I'm looking for a gaming mouse with a metal top. The more metal and less plastic the better. I have look all over the internet and found nothing. Metal bottom doesn't matter. I don't want a metal look, it must actually be metal. It doesn't HAVE to be a gaming mouse but it would be prefered. I don't want to spend too much money on a mouse so if it can be under $40 that would be great. I'm in canada so it would need to ship there. Please not wireless. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21788" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="499b8ba0-79f1-40b9-83f2-f51b50aae948" CreationDate="2017-03-29T20:18:32.477" UserId="5933" Text="Metal top gaming mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21789" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="499b8ba0-79f1-40b9-83f2-f51b50aae948" CreationDate="2017-03-29T20:18:32.477" UserId="5933" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21790" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="28e20df6-2d2d-483e-a8d2-f1fbd1f5303c" CreationDate="2017-03-29T22:41:50.377" UserId="378" Comment="Title was too generic, added what is the most important point of the question " Text="Large battery Android phone, able to charge other devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21791" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="28e20df6-2d2d-483e-a8d2-f1fbd1f5303c" CreationDate="2017-03-29T22:41:50.377" UserId="378" Comment="Title was too generic, added what is the most important point of the question " Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21792" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1679" RevisionGUID="28e20df6-2d2d-483e-a8d2-f1fbd1f5303c" CreationDate="2017-03-29T22:41:50.377" Comment="Proposed by 378 approved by 1366, 203 edit id of 583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21793" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="705ea304-b519-4f11-8762-18c49f3c0d62" CreationDate="2017-03-30T00:30:38.463" UserId="5445" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7149" RevisionGUID="99ba327b-1674-4acb-9e5c-84f0e8b9adec" CreationDate="2017-03-30T01:47:56.537" UserId="5941" Text="&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I came up with a project for which I'll need a couple of cameras and process their output ideally realtime or with slight delay (feature detection and tracking). Initially I thought about buying couple of cheap web cams, then I realized their framerate and resolution isn't good enough and drivers aren't generally good either. So I went online to look for some sensors and found this website [digikey.com][1] with a list of hundreds of sensors. But that only found a few items and from only 3 different manufacturers. Also the pricing seems a bit weird. Well ~$10 for 400x400px unit seems like OK, if I didn't have to buy 2500 units in total. On the other hand there are 640x480 sensors for $110. So while I understand buying thousands of units will be always cheaper then buying a single one, I'm a bit confused from this disproportion of prices. I also found different [website][2], but that doesn't list prices and manufacturers says, on their websites, to contact their sales dept.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So the actual question is: &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Do you know about any eshop (preferable located in Europe) with this&#xD;&#xA;   kind of goods? Or...&#xD;&#xA; - Do you know a sensor that is around 800*600px and&#xD;&#xA;   120FPS or faster + it's price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd expect maybe around $50/unit, but I don't really know how much these things cost&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in Advance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/sensors-transducers/image-sensors-camera/532&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://photonics.specpick.com/search/cmos-image-sensors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21796" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7149" RevisionGUID="99ba327b-1674-4acb-9e5c-84f0e8b9adec" CreationDate="2017-03-30T01:47:56.537" UserId="5941" Text="Cheap 120FPS Camera sensor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21797" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7149" RevisionGUID="99ba327b-1674-4acb-9e5c-84f0e8b9adec" CreationDate="2017-03-30T01:47:56.537" UserId="5941" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7150" RevisionGUID="d51277f6-692b-40f2-a663-5bb2d6d1dc1c" CreationDate="2017-03-30T04:02:30.980" UserId="5217" Text="I'm posting the results of my own investigation here since none of the previous answers quite did the trick (either because of weight or price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop that comes closest to the solution for me is [this Asus Zenbook](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6R454D0638&amp;cm_re=asus_zenbook-_-9SIA6R454D0638-_-Product), which weights only 1.45 kg and has a 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7-6500U Dual-Core with 8GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Granted it's not the most powerful laptop listed here, but it has still good specs and the and low voltage processor that should increases my battery life." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7151" RevisionGUID="5efe1de1-f93c-4a0e-8d80-67a9f5dfa2a7" CreationDate="2017-03-30T11:33:27.813" UserId="5918" Text="I have an ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 NVIDIA GeForce 1070 GTX GPUs&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I want a bridge for these two.I am looking for ASUS ROG SLI HB Bridge and they have two models 3 slot and 4 slot, which one is the right product for my motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21800" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7151" RevisionGUID="5efe1de1-f93c-4a0e-8d80-67a9f5dfa2a7" CreationDate="2017-03-30T11:33:27.813" UserId="5918" Text="NVIDIA SLI Bridge recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21801" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7151" RevisionGUID="5efe1de1-f93c-4a0e-8d80-67a9f5dfa2a7" CreationDate="2017-03-30T11:33:27.813" UserId="5918" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21802" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7152" RevisionGUID="0fc6d595-27cf-41a2-8d66-27078db2e999" CreationDate="2017-03-30T12:18:51.773" UserId="1007" Text="[![enter image description here][1]][1]The 3 slot model is the one you need.&#xD;&#xA;With your hardware combination you will have one empty slot in between the two cards. The 4 slot model is only needed if you have two empty slots in between the cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOomi.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7149" RevisionGUID="6e3e86c3-33d1-49b5-a9b7-8391f37675fd" CreationDate="2017-03-30T12:21:45.680" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 150 characters in body" Text="I came up with a project for which I'll need a couple of cameras and process their output ideally realtime or with slight delay (feature detection and tracking). Initially I thought about buying couple of cheap web cams, then I realized their framerate and resolution isn't good enough and drivers aren't generally good either. So I went online to look for some sensors and found this website [digikey.com][1] with a list of hundreds of sensors. But that only found a few items and from only 3 different manufacturers. Also the pricing seems a bit weird. Well ~$10 for 400x400px unit seems like OK, if I didn't have to buy 2500 units in total. On the other hand there are 640x480 sensors for $110. So while I understand buying thousands of units will be always cheaper then buying a single one, I'm a bit confused from this disproportion of prices. I also found different [website][2], but that doesn't list prices and manufacturers says, on their websites, to contact their sales dept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the actual question is: &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Do you know a sensor that is around 800*600px and&#xD;&#xA;   120FPS or faster + it's price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd expect maybe around $50/unit, but I don't really know how much these things cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/sensors-transducers/image-sensors-camera/532&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://photonics.specpick.com/search/cmos-image-sensors/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7153" RevisionGUID="0dc87f32-4b4c-4657-964f-26a3e442d816" CreationDate="2017-03-30T17:40:06.783" UserId="5937" Text="I want to use my smartphone's video function, e.g. for recording videos and for making video calls. But I do not want to hold the smartphone in my hand. Is there a good stand that holds the smartphone horizontally? The charging stations usually hold the smartphone vertically which I do not want for recording video. Nice would be a stand not only for one type of phone but for most of the phones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7153" RevisionGUID="0dc87f32-4b4c-4657-964f-26a3e442d816" CreationDate="2017-03-30T17:40:06.783" UserId="5937" Text="Horizontal smartphone stand wanted" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7153" RevisionGUID="0dc87f32-4b4c-4657-964f-26a3e442d816" CreationDate="2017-03-30T17:40:06.783" UserId="5937" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7154" RevisionGUID="ab516a6b-d8b8-43b5-bf56-a41c4d66cc33" CreationDate="2017-03-30T18:15:43.107" UserId="5937" Text="Have a look at the [ASUS N56JR][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 64 Bit Windows or 64 Bit Linux (Ubuntu tested)&#xD;&#xA; - i5 or i7 CPU (seems to depend on the region which one is shipped, the one I tested has a i5, the one tested [in this video][2] has a i7)&#xD;&#xA; - 8 Gigabytes of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Full-HD screen&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760M and Intel HD Graphics 4600&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 ports (2 on the left, 2 on the right)&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in Gigabit wired Ethernet 1 TB HDD (can be replaced by a SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only downside to your requirements: It has no touch screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ASUS N56JR][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Notebooks/N56JR/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAAoZSgGNQk&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTZ1t.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7155" RevisionGUID="7278977a-2a04-43bf-a2ab-5e70d0471650" CreationDate="2017-03-31T03:16:03.013" UserId="5941" Text="You could buy some kind of mount, eg. Joby GripTight Mount (dunno how good quality wise is this particular model is, but it's good enough for the reference) and use it with any standard camera tripod.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you can check out some those flexible GorillaPods (it looks like little octopuses). Many times they are sold with similar mounts as the one above. The problem with these is, they degrade fast, but on the other hand, they are quite cheap and you can attach it to a lot of other things&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also buy little tripods. While they last longer, they lack the ability to attach themselves to various objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end you got to chose what to use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7157" RevisionGUID="4d6466a3-b387-4241-b20b-89d485679df1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T13:21:40.347" UserId="4136" Text="I would try 4 dual band routers, and set them up on different channels to minimize interference, check https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels for this. Go for the best routers you can get from your budget. Spread them over the room and connect them to an Ethernet switch. Try out different positions to get the most from your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think this could work, but no guarantees. The university WWAN where I study tends to get flaky in full large lecture halls (i.e. 300-400 people) and they probably spent quite some time and money optimizing it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21816" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7157" RevisionGUID="e07daa71-faf3-406a-8651-e960b584f210" CreationDate="2017-03-31T15:41:13.457" UserId="4136" Comment="added 1255 characters in body" Text="I would try 4 dual band routers (i.e. they can use a channel in the 2.4Ghz range and one in the 5Ghz range at the same time), and set them up on different channels to minimize interference, [checking][1] for this. Go for the best routers you can get from your budget. Spread them over the room and connect them to an Ethernet switch. Try out different positions to get the most from your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example of channels you could choose are channels 1, 6, 11 and 14 for 2.4Ghz as per [this][2] section and channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 for 5Ghz (I just chose the lowest non-overlapping channels allowable for the USA as per [this][3]). It should not matter how you pair those channels onto the different routers, so for example routers with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * 1 and 36&#xD;&#xA; * 6 and 40&#xD;&#xA; * 11 and 44&#xD;&#xA; * 14 and 48&#xD;&#xA;on 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz respectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You all set them up with the same SSID and password, but otherwise nothing special, just as you would for single APs. The clients will choose the best available AP (also switch between them transparently if necessary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router/AP you mention in your comment is a single-band 2.4Ghz one. I suggested dual band ones. One hint as to whether what you are looking at is dual or single band is that dual band ones have two antennas while single band ones only have one. But check the specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think this could work, but no guarantees. The university WWAN where I study tends to get flaky in full large lecture halls (i.e. 300-400 people) and they probably spent quite some time and money optimizing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#2.4.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11b.2Fg.2Fn.29&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11a.2Fh.2Fj.2Fn.2Fac.29.5B18.5D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21817" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7157" RevisionGUID="8e615da3-d5ab-48c1-b598-0d9b91727d5c" CreationDate="2017-03-31T15:47:26.353" UserId="4136" Comment="added 132 characters in body" Text="I would try 4 dual band routers (i.e. they can use a channel in the 2.4Ghz range and one in the 5Ghz range at the same time), and set them up on different channels to minimize interference, [checking][1] for this. Go for the best routers you can get from your budget. Spread them over the room and connect them to an Ethernet switch. Try out different positions to get the most from your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example of channels you could choose are channels 1, 6, 11 and 14 for 2.4Ghz as per [this][2] section and channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 for 5Ghz (I just chose the lowest non-overlapping channels allowable for the USA as per [this][3]). It should not matter how you pair those channels onto the different routers, so for example routers with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * 1 and 36&#xD;&#xA; * 6 and 40&#xD;&#xA; * 11 and 44&#xD;&#xA; * 14 and 48&#xD;&#xA;on 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz respectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You all set them up with the same SSID and password, but otherwise nothing special, just as you would for single APs. The clients will choose the best available AP (also switch between them transparently if necessary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router/AP you mention in your comment is a single-band 2.4Ghz one. I suggested dual band ones. One hint as to whether what you are looking at is dual or single band is that dual band ones have two antennas while single band ones only have one. But check the specifications. Dual band routers should perform as good as one router in one band, and a second in the other, so essentially you could two in one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think this could work, but no guarantees. The university WWAN where I study tends to get flaky in full large lecture halls (i.e. 300-400 people) and they probably spent quite some time and money optimizing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#2.4.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11b.2Fg.2Fn.29&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11a.2Fh.2Fj.2Fn.2Fac.29.5B18.5D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21824" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7090" RevisionGUID="a20eb133-9f4e-4af0-ae84-e9a1999588a3" CreationDate="2017-04-01T07:47:15.320" UserId="-1" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:3980,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;0-60FPS&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:4523,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;NZKshatriya&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21825" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7157" RevisionGUID="aa2c145d-9e26-471a-a6ea-5669f555fe6a" CreationDate="2017-04-01T08:07:04.637" UserId="4136" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I would try 4 dual band routers (i.e. they can use a channel in the 2.4Ghz range and one in the 5Ghz range at the same time), and set them up on different channels to minimize interference, [checking][1] for this. Go for the best routers you can get from your budget. Spread them over the room and connect them to an Ethernet switch. Try out different positions to get the most from your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example of channels you could choose are channels 1, 6, 11 and 14 for 2.4Ghz as per [this][2] section and channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 for 5Ghz (I just chose the lowest non-overlapping channels allowable for the USA as per [this][3]). It should not matter how you pair those channels onto the different routers, so for example routers with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * 1 and 36&#xD;&#xA; * 6 and 40&#xD;&#xA; * 11 and 44&#xD;&#xA; * 14 and 48&#xD;&#xA;on 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz respectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You all set them up with the same SSID and password, but otherwise nothing special, just as you would for single APs. The clients will choose the best available AP (also switch between them transparently if necessary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router/AP you mention in your comment is a single-band 2.4Ghz one. I suggested dual band ones. One hint as to whether what you are looking at is dual or single band is that dual band ones (usually) have two antennas while single band ones (usually) only have one. But check the specifications! Dual band routers should perform as good as one router in one band, and a second in the other, so essentially you could two in one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think this could work, but no guarantees. The university WWAN where I study tends to get flaky in full large lecture halls (i.e. 300-400 people) and they probably spent quite some time and money optimizing it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#2.4.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11b.2Fg.2Fn.29&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11a.2Fh.2Fj.2Fn.2Fac.29.5B18.5D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21826" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="dee04821-8f3b-4e6b-944d-bd99d59c104f" CreationDate="2017-04-01T09:05:55.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21831" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7099" RevisionGUID="67c8bb15-9732-4f61-a580-34a0bc7bef80" CreationDate="2017-04-01T11:42:45.983" UserId="8" Comment="no affiliate links" Text="Although I'm not sure it's really doable (if all 300'ish people will be concurrently connected) for such a low price range. But buying 10 cheap APs isn't really the way to go. Rather by few (or even one like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016E7ZSKO) high performance/high throughput APs. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21837" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="a781a10e-ef1a-4dbb-a958-7b846763ddde" CreationDate="2017-04-01T14:17:48.527" UserId="5933" Text="I have a &quot;Slim line case&quot; with a flex ATX form factor motherboard, and I want a moderate graphics card. Something close to a GTS 450. But It needs to fit in my case, so a more compact size. Length doesn't really matter but it can't take up 2 spaces in the back of the PC. I'm just using it for light gaming. It must have a VGA port and a DVI/VGA/displayport because I am using dual monitors. (Both with VGA but I have adapters for DVI and displayport.) It should be able to run all aspects of Windows 10." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21838" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="a781a10e-ef1a-4dbb-a958-7b846763ddde" CreationDate="2017-04-01T14:17:48.527" UserId="5933" Text="A small but moderately powerful graphics card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21839" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="a781a10e-ef1a-4dbb-a958-7b846763ddde" CreationDate="2017-04-01T14:17:48.527" UserId="5933" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="ef1a55d2-d081-4c99-ab4f-d52541dc1af4" CreationDate="2017-04-01T14:26:11.857" UserId="5933" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="I have a &quot;Slim line case&quot; with a flex ATX form factor motherboard, and I want a moderate graphics card. Something close to a GTS 450. A Radeon HD 5450 works but i would prefer more power. But It needs to fit in my case, so a more compact size. Length doesn't really matter but it can't take up 2 spaces in the back of the PC. I'm just using it for light gaming. It must have a VGA port and a DVI/VGA/displayport because I am using dual monitors. (Both with VGA but I have adapters for DVI and displayport.) It should be able to run all aspects of Windows 10." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21845" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="ea9db59d-5c7f-4de8-9672-2dc9c53e3beb" CreationDate="2017-04-01T23:09:27.903" UserId="964" Comment="added 745 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: &#xD;&#xA;Found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just read [man hdparm][2]. At the beginning it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need a USB-ATA bridge that supports *SAT*. It's irritating they gave it a name similar to *SATA*, when my drive is *PATA*!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Ok. My advice to anyone with the same issue would be: just get an old motherboard and do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked out https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Supported_USB-Devices. This is a list of devices which support SCSI-ATA Command Translation. I got a Gembird AUSI01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It... didn't work. Just said 'erase prepare: invalid argument.'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked the adapter via USBdeview. It's genunine: correct chipset and device ID. It was able to work with smartmontools commands that I tried. It just wouldn't do Secure Erase, despite reporting that the drive *could* do Secure Erase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I give up. Unless you have an opportunity to test this before you buy it, don't. Just grab an old computer... these days people will give them away for free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="b7ca5009-2492-4255-8f81-d1eda19d684e" CreationDate="2017-04-02T08:50:08.013" UserId="964" Comment="deleted 686 characters in body" Text="I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I see lots of IDE to ***SATA*** converters on eBay. Would one of those do the job?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2: &#xD;&#xA;Found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just read [man hdparm][2]. At the beginning it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need a USB-ATA bridge that supports *SAT*. It's irritating they gave it a name similar to *SATA*, when my drive is *PATA*!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** See my answer. TL;DR, just get an old computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7166" RevisionGUID="b013d337-99c8-4f7e-b778-6bef360097e5" CreationDate="2017-04-02T08:51:51.713" UserId="964" Text="I am the OP: my advice to anyone with the same issue would be just get an old motherboard and do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked out https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Supported_USB-Devices. This is a list of devices which support SCSI-ATA Command Translation. I got a Gembird AUSI01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It... didn't work. Just said 'erase prepare: invalid argument.'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked the adapter via USBdeview. It's genunine: correct chipset and device ID. It was able to work with smartmontools commands that I tried. It just wouldn't do Secure Erase, despite reporting that the drive *could* do Secure Erase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I give up. Unless you have an opportunity to test this before you buy it, don't. Just grab an old computer... these days people will give them away for free." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7168" RevisionGUID="93ce8be5-9f90-4a3b-b31d-714d1c0dcca1" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:15:32.387" UserId="378" Text="I need an Android phone for long bicycle trips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Long battery lifetime (at least 12 hours with frequent GPS &amp; camera usage, the longer the better)&#xD;&#xA;2. Small enough to fit in trousers pocket&#xD;&#xA;3. Rather good GPS&#xD;&#xA;4. Rather robust, as it might fall a few times&#xD;&#xA;5. Rather good camera (mostly daytime landscapes)&#xD;&#xA;6. Price: Hopefully less than 500 EUR&#xD;&#xA;7. Able to make calls" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7168" RevisionGUID="93ce8be5-9f90-4a3b-b31d-714d1c0dcca1" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:15:32.387" UserId="378" Text="Pocket-sized Android phone with big battery and good camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7168" RevisionGUID="93ce8be5-9f90-4a3b-b31d-714d1c0dcca1" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:15:32.387" UserId="378" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7169" RevisionGUID="bee079a9-b785-439f-9b21-3d6720490a18" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:36:09.133" UserId="2601" Text="I want to start music production and I am a total newbie.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have most of the equipment required: a (dektop) PC with a more than decent CPU, a Beyerdynamic headset and decent Creative speakers. For the DAW, I watched and read a lot of comparatives and tested some of them before eventually settle for Presonus Studio One, at least for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I lack now is a master keyboard and a real soundcard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I selected components for my PC I decided not to buy a sound card at the moment mainly because I  had no more money left on my budget. Now that I want to start producing music, I think the time has come that I invest in it. If possible, I'd like to go for a cheap solution – **ideally under $100 (I'm just getting started in music!)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially I wanted an internal soundcard like Asus' for instance because I like to keep a clean desk and I don't see the point of having a tower with lots of space if you use external components; and also because I listen to music a lot (obviously) and am not sure an external card is better for listening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However all the articles and tutorials I have read always mention external cards like Presonus AudioBox (which I really feel like buying because of the free Studio One licence). I searched for debates about internal vs external soundcards and I couldn't extract any answer from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I understood is that **external cards are better because they have a physical interface** for changing the volume and tons of other parameters; and because **they have a better audio input**. But the thing is my speakers already have a volume and tone button that I barely use, so **I'm not sure I'll need those on an external card**; and **I don't intend to record anything but rather only use midi intruments**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am therefore completely lost and have no idea what I should go for. Any insights welcome :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7169" RevisionGUID="bee079a9-b785-439f-9b21-3d6720490a18" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:36:09.133" UserId="2601" Text="Soundcard for music production beginner: internal or external?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7169" RevisionGUID="bee079a9-b785-439f-9b21-3d6720490a18" CreationDate="2017-04-02T13:36:09.133" UserId="2601" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7171" RevisionGUID="486acddd-ca6c-4a16-b67f-3438331e26bd" CreationDate="2017-04-02T19:58:58.880" UserId="5645" Text="Finally, I've found the right device. It's Fiio X5 3gen. It handles playing files in big folders (10000+ files) without any delay even if the random mode is on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has all features I wanted, sometimes it's even more than I expected (two card slots). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only disadvantage I've found so far is that the device is quite big (it's a lot thicker than average phone)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7173" RevisionGUID="cee6be6f-9a2c-412e-a7db-e944dbdf80dc" CreationDate="2017-04-03T10:18:36.477" UserId="5581" Text="I can just say about my device and can fully remommend it to your needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SanDisk Sansa Fuze V2 with rockbox firmware][1] -- no touch screen, so no &quot;unlocking&quot;-problem at all, small, with rockbox about 20hrs battery life continuos play. The Wiki Page on rockbox.org seems to have quite outdated information, but in the last year or two there was new active development on CPU frequency scaling and power saving codes. With rockbox, battery life and audio quality is better than with original firmware, and can play many audio formats, also flac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In another answer there is already a picture of the Fuze, so I don't need to add one here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.rockbox.org/wiki/SansaFuze &quot;SanDisk Sansa Fuze V2 with rockbox firmware&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21880" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="dfd8b92d-bbda-4c54-95af-f27cc1179cc3" CreationDate="2017-04-03T10:37:09.330" UserId="964" Comment="added 118 characters in body" Text="**Update:** See my answer. TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do. However, if anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter of any kind which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase, I'd love to hear about it and please post below. A PATA-SATA adapter that can do this would also be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In [man hdparm][2] it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I bought one which is support to support *SAT*, and reflected on the word 'may'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Original question below**&#xD;&#xA;I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this command fine on a usb-to-sata bridge, but it won't work on either of the *two* usb-to-pata adapters I've tried. Is there one available which supports this? Or do I just have to get my hands on an old motherboard and plug them in if I want to SE them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21883" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="961e9e82-ce0e-496e-b2a6-728a1d3c72db" CreationDate="2017-04-03T12:35:38.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7174" RevisionGUID="cc942202-5d30-42d9-b324-84784cb4d2ab" CreationDate="2017-04-03T12:36:51.340" UserId="5805" Text="This [RCA Tablet][1] usually costs around US$35 at Walmart. Not sure how much it would cost in your country, but the price is much lower than the one you quoted, so maybe it is worth a look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 7&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - Front camera &#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - Works with OTG adapter + USB LAN adapter (I tested it).&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB storage + SD card&#xD;&#xA; - Crazy cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Works pretty well for the price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find anyone trying Linux on it, but it has an Intel Atom processor, so it is probably easier than an custom ARM processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/RCA-Voyager-7-16GB-Tablet-Android-6.0-Marshmallow/53990885" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="b38fd744-84f9-492f-9cd2-a17a0be0adba" CreationDate="2017-04-03T13:31:23.340" UserId="964" Comment="deleted 1359 characters in body; edited title" Text="**Update:** See my answer. **TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do**. However, if anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter of any kind which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase, I'd love to hear about it and please post below. A PATA-SATA adapter that can do this would also be welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21889" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="b38fd744-84f9-492f-9cd2-a17a0be0adba" CreationDate="2017-04-03T13:31:23.340" UserId="964" Comment="deleted 1359 characters in body; edited title" Text="What USB to IDE adapter that can send the ATA Secure Erase command?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21890" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7166" RevisionGUID="f379e199-9536-45e6-a46a-6f644d6ce57d" CreationDate="2017-04-03T13:35:22.203" UserId="964" Comment="added 1065 characters in body" Text="I am the OP: my advice to anyone with the same issue would be just get an old motherboard and do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found someone else with the same problem [here][1], and a reply said&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs).  Mine don't&#xD;&#xA;support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the&#xD;&#xA;Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In [man hdparm][2] it says&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS &quot;libata&quot; subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support &quot;SAT&quot; (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I bought one which is support to support *SAT*, and reflected on the word 'may'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked out https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Supported_USB-Devices. This is a list of devices which support SCSI-ATA Command Translation. I got a Gembird AUSI01.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It... didn't work. Just said 'erase prepare: invalid argument.'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked the adapter via USBdeview. It's genunine: correct chipset and device ID. It was able to work with smartmontools commands that I tried. It just wouldn't do Secure Erase, despite reporting that the drive *could* do Secure Erase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I give up. Unless you have an opportunity to test this before you buy it, don't. Just grab an old computer... these days people will give them away for free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7176" RevisionGUID="39e005be-290e-4b95-9485-b5cfe054da4d" CreationDate="2017-04-03T13:41:44.740" UserId="5966" Text="Not too rough, if you don't mind ordering from China.  Check out [this camera](http://www.ebay.com/itm/1080P-Full-HD-MJPEG-30fps-60fps-120fps-OV2710-CMOS-USB-Camera-Module-Android-/222119769081) on ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually sports a Full HD CMOS USB Camera, which shoots at 30 / 60 / 120 FPS.  It's going for $45.26 US, plus 99 cents shipping, but it looks like it meets your specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also [this one](http://www.ebay.com/itm/2MP-High-Speed-120fps-USB-Camera-Module-3-6mm-OV2710-Color-Sensor-MJPEG-Format-/182222222239) for $49.62, which also appears to meet the speficications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that both of these have limited supply, so you may or may not be able to get hold on enough for your project." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21892" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="e66e313a-3abe-4466-bf57-b7c663e24d1b" CreationDate="2017-04-03T14:31:06.537" UserId="964" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="**Update:** See my answer. **TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do**. However, if anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase, whether laptop or desktop, I'd love to hear about it and please post below. A PATA-SATA adapter that can do this would also be welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21893" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6948" RevisionGUID="524a5d25-6052-41eb-b623-779aad31da88" CreationDate="2017-04-03T15:47:16.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7177" RevisionGUID="2b53555f-389b-4a5f-8b45-2ff11717768f" CreationDate="2017-04-03T15:55:49.463" UserId="5967" Text="I need to configure a notebook to &quot;backup&quot; a live-database for 10 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The client wants to open the notebook in, let's say, 7 years, start the OS, open up his applications, check some data, shut it down again. It's like a long-term-live-backup-system. I advised him, that maybe a VM with the running DB + clients + virtual storage, saved on an archival DVD / BluRay / tape / SSD (whatever) would be a better and more flexible idea. He was thrilled and said I should do that, too...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I need a notebook which has the chance to start up again in ten years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ordinarily, every system should be able to provide that, if the hardware is stored in a safe place (temperature, etc.) but maybe somebody here knows of a very stable / durable notebook I could use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course they will be needing a CMOS battery and maybe a new PSU or something, but the main system has to be up and running again on very short notice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody got any experience in this and could provide me with some info / thoughts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21895" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7177" RevisionGUID="2b53555f-389b-4a5f-8b45-2ff11717768f" CreationDate="2017-04-03T15:55:49.463" UserId="5967" Text="Live system (notebook) running database for 10y" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21896" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7177" RevisionGUID="2b53555f-389b-4a5f-8b45-2ff11717768f" CreationDate="2017-04-03T15:55:49.463" UserId="5967" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="453cecd8-7b36-45a7-ab59-1aeeeac0df15" CreationDate="2017-04-03T23:31:19.320" UserId="5445" Comment="added 120 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's [Project Tango](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPR9EFE20Aw)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Magic Leap](http://magicleap.com)&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Pico [Neo CV](https://www.wareable.com/vr/pico-neo-cv-review)&#xD;&#xA;- [Univrses](http://univrses.com/site/ar-vr.php)&#xD;&#xA;- ODG'a [R-8 and R-9](https://next.reality.news/news/hands-with-osterhout-design-groups-r-8-r-9-smartglasses-0176502/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7179" RevisionGUID="c1b03d10-7460-40b5-84ef-e55728bcebf3" CreationDate="2017-04-04T01:25:36.877" UserId="5683" Text="My brother sent me this link: https://n-o-d-e.net/zeroterminal.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While is not for serious business, I think it's still worth the effort :P" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7179" RevisionGUID="90c92878-88e1-4d04-9dff-2203dab136d2" CreationDate="2017-04-04T03:57:56.310" UserId="5683" Comment="Added description according to @Alpha3031 suggestion" Text="My brother sent me this link: https://n-o-d-e.net/zeroterminal.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 3.5&quot; Raspberry Pi Zero W based mini computer using an iPhone 5 sliding keyboard case and a 3d printed frame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While is not for serious business, I think it's still worth the effort :P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21903" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7177" RevisionGUID="e1975121-4726-4a3b-a525-e06887cbed68" CreationDate="2017-04-04T07:55:58.233" UserId="5967" Comment="tl;dr" Text="I need to configure a notebook to &quot;backup&quot; a live-database for 10 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The client wants to open the notebook in, let's say, 7 years, start the OS, open up his applications, check some data, shut it down again. It's like a long-term-live-backup-system. I advised him, that maybe a VM with the running DB + clients + virtual storage, saved on an archival DVD / BluRay / tape / SSD (whatever) would be a better and more flexible idea. He was thrilled and said I should do that, too...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I need a notebook which has the chance to start up again in ten years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ordinarily, every system should be able to provide that, if the hardware is stored in a safe place (temperature, etc.) but maybe somebody here knows of a very stable / durable notebook I could use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course they will be needing a CMOS battery and maybe a new PSU or something, but the main system has to be up and running again on very short notice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somebody got any experience in this and could provide me with some info / thoughts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit: tl;dr:** I need a &quot;durable&quot; laptop, which will be powered off for 10 years and still has a chance to be up and running again on short notice, with no to few expectable hardware failures." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21904" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7177" RevisionGUID="e1975121-4726-4a3b-a525-e06887cbed68" CreationDate="2017-04-04T07:55:58.233" UserId="5967" Comment="tl;dr" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7182" RevisionGUID="814e971a-5bc4-4bf2-b4cd-e1515f0ccb67" CreationDate="2017-04-04T14:25:17.540" UserId="84" Text="My 3-year-old Lorex NVR is dead.  I have six POE HD IP cameras: Lorex models&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* LNB2153&#xD;&#xA;* LND2152&#xD;&#xA;* MCNB2151&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to get an 8-16 channel NVR that will work with those, and that will also support newer IP cameras.  Recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21915" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7182" RevisionGUID="814e971a-5bc4-4bf2-b4cd-e1515f0ccb67" CreationDate="2017-04-04T14:25:17.540" UserId="84" Text="Network Video Recorder" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21916" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7182" RevisionGUID="814e971a-5bc4-4bf2-b4cd-e1515f0ccb67" CreationDate="2017-04-04T14:25:17.540" UserId="84" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;nvr&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7183" RevisionGUID="f38ce814-9ee9-442d-90cb-6f47a9a7fd99" CreationDate="2017-04-04T14:26:07.387" UserId="5581" Text="I just came upon the [GPD Pocket][1] and the [Gemini PDA][2]. The first one is a little too big for you, but the second might fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to note: I found the [HP Jornada 720/ 728][3]'s keyboad the best small keyboard for fast typing I had so far -- better than that of the popular [Psion 5 mx][4]. I could type almost normal speed on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/gpd-pocket-7-0-umpc-laptop-ubuntu-or-win-10-os-laptop--2/ &quot;GPD Pocket&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/gemini-pda-android-linux-keyboard-mobile-device-phone#/ &quot;Gemini PDA&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jornada_%28PDA%29#Jornada_720 &quot;HP Jornada 720/ 728&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psion_Series_5 &quot;Psion 5 mx&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7176" RevisionGUID="17119a52-32fa-41b1-9a6f-f97bda210bd5" CreationDate="2017-04-04T15:13:59.287" UserId="5966" Comment="Clarified links" Text="Not too rough, if you don't mind ordering from China.  Check out [this ELP-USBFHD01M-L36-120FPS](http://www.ebay.com/itm/1080P-Full-HD-MJPEG-30fps-60fps-120fps-OV2710-CMOS-USB-Camera-Module-Android-/222119769081) on ebay.  It's unbranded, but I've given you the model number so you can find it elsewhere.  Currently, the cheapest place I can find is ebay, but that could change, as per comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually sports a Full HD CMOS USB Camera, which shoots at 30 / 60 / 120 FPS.  It's going for $45.26 US, plus 99 cents shipping, but it looks like it meets your specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also [this ELP-USBFHD01M-L36-120FPS](http://www.ebay.com/itm/2MP-High-Speed-120fps-USB-Camera-Module-3-6mm-OV2710-Color-Sensor-MJPEG-Format-/182222222239) for $49.62, which is actually the same camera from a different ebay seller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that both of these have limited supply, so you may or may not be able to get hold on enough for your project." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="252ac076-7e49-4122-9573-44bd1f7f2e68" CreationDate="2017-04-05T15:41:40.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7187" RevisionGUID="af0406be-cc48-4057-ac61-f655d8d1cfc8" CreationDate="2017-04-05T16:56:54.917" UserId="5977" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need your help regarding my graphics on my pc. Ubuntu 16.04 still gives me some problems and i would love to think buying a VGA card since i am using my intergrated one. I think this is the problem i face. Some tearing when scrolling firefox - some images while browsing are lagging my ui a bit and overall i am not so happy . My pc specs are :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU : AMD A8 7600 (Kaveri Apu 4core) R7 graphics , i am using those&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD : Crucial brand new 275GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;M/B : MSI A88XM - E35&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM : 6GB DDR3 1600MHZ (4GB + 2GB) Dimms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU : Usual 500 watt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware that APU's were facing problems since 16.04 where out. Tried AMD GPU-Pro 16.60 drivers same issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my machine mainly for web Developing like Wordpress etc. No gaming at the moment since i decided to abandon Windoze once and for all. On windoze perfomance was ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also i don't wanna go back to 14.04 since i ve tried in the past and missed a lot of features. I think that buying a vga card will solve my problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the questions are :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: NVIDIA vs AMD for me ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Which model should i prefer ? Budget is around 70-80$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks all.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7187" RevisionGUID="af0406be-cc48-4057-ac61-f655d8d1cfc8" CreationDate="2017-04-05T16:56:54.917" UserId="5977" Text="Suggestion for new vga Card under ubuntu 16.04 and other linux distros?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7187" RevisionGUID="af0406be-cc48-4057-ac61-f655d8d1cfc8" CreationDate="2017-04-05T16:56:54.917" UserId="5977" Text="&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7187" RevisionGUID="2156ba30-6fd6-4894-997e-d7052a5392e9" CreationDate="2017-04-05T19:09:01.033" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="I need your help regarding my graphics on my PC. Ubuntu 16.04 still gives me some problems and I would love to think buying a VGA card since i am using my integrated one. I think this is the problem i face. Some tearing when scrolling Firefox - some images while browsing are lagging my UI a bit and overall i am not so happy. My PC specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU : AMD A8 7600 (Kaveri APU 4 core) R7 graphics, I am using those&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD : Crucial brand new 275GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;M/B : MSI A88XM - E35&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM : 6GB DDR3 1600MHZ (4GB + 2GB) Dimms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU : Usual 500 watt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware that APU's were facing problems since 16.04 where out. Tried AMD GPU-Pro 16.60 drivers same issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my machine mainly for web developing like Wordpress etc. No gaming at the moment since I decided to abandon Windows once and for all. On Windows performance was OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I don't wanna go back to 14.04 since I've tried in the past and missed a lot of features. I think that buying a VGA card will solve my problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: NVIDIA vs AMD for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Which model should I prefer? Budget is around 70-80$." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7189" RevisionGUID="9c0cab8e-4d62-4076-9cef-973d025a5da6" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:52:05.727" UserId="5981" Text="Does anyone know a modern laptop which is equipped with the classic keyboard? Similar to those from old ThinkPad laptops, e.g. T420 or T500?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that my Thinkpad T420 is at the winter of its live and probably this or next year I would need a new machine and I just hate the chiclet keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21940" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7189" RevisionGUID="9c0cab8e-4d62-4076-9cef-973d025a5da6" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:52:05.727" UserId="5981" Text="classic keyboard in modern laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21941" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7189" RevisionGUID="9c0cab8e-4d62-4076-9cef-973d025a5da6" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:52:05.727" UserId="5981" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7190" RevisionGUID="2de73070-d657-44e5-ba2c-ca4bf2616be7" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:56:22.823" UserId="5980" Text="Please, I need your help in selecting a graphic card that supports 4K resolutions (3840x2160 pixels). I mostly need it for general work and for watching some 4K videos. I don't play games at all and thus I am not interested in high-end graphic cards for 4K gaming experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In Summary:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Type Of Recommendation:** Graphic Card&#xD;&#xA;- **Brand:** I don't mind the brand at all.&#xD;&#xA;- **Usage:** I only need it to support 4K resolutions and to be able to play 4K movies. No game support is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**System Information:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6500 - 4 Cores at 3.20 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;- **Motherboard:** ASUS Z170-P D3&#xD;&#xA;- **Operating System:** Kubuntu 16.10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas, recommendations, or comments will be greatly appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7190" RevisionGUID="2de73070-d657-44e5-ba2c-ca4bf2616be7" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:56:22.823" UserId="5980" Text="Graphic Card For Watching 4K Videos Without Gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7190" RevisionGUID="2de73070-d657-44e5-ba2c-ca4bf2616be7" CreationDate="2017-04-06T03:56:22.823" UserId="5980" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7191" RevisionGUID="6dfd233e-52ee-4cc0-aa51-71c882e570ae" CreationDate="2017-04-06T07:25:11.380" UserId="5982" Text="I am looking for a printer which has a good photo quality. Moreover, a continuous ink supply system (3rd party is Ok) should be available. Also good support for GNU/Linux is desirable. Thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21947" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7191" RevisionGUID="6dfd233e-52ee-4cc0-aa51-71c882e570ae" CreationDate="2017-04-06T07:25:11.380" UserId="5982" Text="Printer with good photo printing and ciss" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21948" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7191" RevisionGUID="6dfd233e-52ee-4cc0-aa51-71c882e570ae" CreationDate="2017-04-06T07:25:11.380" UserId="5982" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21949" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7169" RevisionGUID="0f1d5874-5b4b-4449-a242-e206e4aa3977" CreationDate="2017-04-06T09:17:34.777" UserId="2601" Comment="added 1050 characters in body" Text="I want to start music production and I am a total newbie.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have most of the equipment required: a (dektop) PC with a more than decent CPU, a Beyerdynamic headset and decent Creative speakers. For the DAW, I watched and read a lot of comparatives and tested some of them before eventually settle for Presonus Studio One, at least for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I lack now is a master keyboard and a real soundcard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I selected components for my PC I decided not to buy a sound card at the moment mainly because I  had no more money left on my budget. Now that I want to start producing music, I think the time has come that I invest in it. If possible, I'd like to go for a cheap solution – **ideally under $100 (I'm just getting started in music!)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially I wanted an internal soundcard like Asus' for instance because I like to keep a clean desk and I don't see the point of having a tower with lots of space if you use external components; and also because I listen to music a lot (obviously) and am not sure an external card is better for listening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However all the articles and tutorials I have read always mention external cards like Presonus AudioBox (which I really feel like buying because of the free Studio One licence). I searched for debates about internal vs external soundcards and I couldn't extract any answer from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I understood is that **external cards are better because they have a physical interface** for changing the volume and tons of other parameters; and because **they have a better audio input**. But the thing is my speakers already have a volume and tone button that I barely use, so **I'm not sure I'll need those on an external card**; and **I don't intend to record anything but rather only use midi intruments**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am therefore completely lost and have no idea what I should go for. Any insights welcome :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important use of this soundcard for me would be to have a great output sound, namely better than my motherboard's chipset's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really intend to record things with it for now, mainly because I don't have a proper mic and my budget is tight enough that I can't invest in one for now. And also because I can't and won't sing. What I'm interested in is producing melodies with MIDI instruments. Sampling, I think, is not my thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I *think* (using the word think because I am a newbie and I may be wrong totally) that I'll need well basically one input port for my MIDI controller and one input port for my speakers or headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Volume control is a cool thing to have, although I bet any external soundcard has one. But it's not mandatory for me, because I already can control volume on my speakers. And tone, too, which I almost never do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's more to a sound card I don't know, and this is why I'm asking for advices. Hope this edit made my needs easier to understand and can help people answering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="4e209506-171a-464e-8641-67a4f60f4164" CreationDate="2017-04-06T17:01:09.803" UserId="964" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="**Update:** See my answer. **TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if **anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase, whether laptop or desktop, I'd love to hear about it and please post below**. A PATA-SATA adapter that can do this would also be welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7193" RevisionGUID="7f058aca-e205-4377-879e-d21d4833cc72" CreationDate="2017-04-06T17:25:50.217" UserId="5988" Text="While I know of no **USB-C** PCIe expansion-chassises¹, there are several [Thunderbolt 3](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_(interface)) options. In addition to the mentioned [Razer Core](https://www.razerzone.com/store/razer-core)² ($US 500, 1×PCIe x16, 500W PSU), I looked into these two products when building my Macbook Pro Thunderbolt 3 eGPU solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The [AKiTiO Node](https://www.akitio.com/expansion/node): $US 300, 1×PCIe x16, 400W PSU&#xD;&#xA; - The [Sonnet Echo Express](http://www.sonnettech.com/product/echoexpressseltb3.html): $US 270, 1×PCIe x8, no additional PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(There's also a huge number of Thunderbolt 2 PCIe expansion-chassis products, but those are almost certainly irrelevant to your needs.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of crucial note when researching this, be aware that the only differences in the above boxes are the *length of the connectable card*, and the *bus-power* provided by the PCIe slot. Although some may advertise “PCIe x16” slots, the Thunderbolt protocol limits the PCIe connection to x4 data-lanes, thus reducing every available expansion-chassis to approximately the same specifications, when it comes to the speed of the connection. (That said, every single one should easily support even a 10GigE networking card.) The only material differences are the cost, the size of the box, and the included PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1. Having a ‘USB-C PCIe expansion chassis’ would imply a different, non-Thunderbolt proprietary protocol wrapping the PCIe communication into a USB-C ‘Alternate Mode’, which I can't see anybody bothering to do when Thunderbolt 3 exists; so the question as-asked is unanswerable.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2. I can also personally vouch for the Razer Core, as I love mine; and it comes very close to maxing out the performance of the absolute *beast* of a video-card I use in it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2443" RevisionGUID="27e907cd-9d19-4bad-8dba-09d2495ee772" CreationDate="2017-04-06T18:23:27.780" UserId="2081" Comment="deleted 101 characters in body" Text="One of my go-to brands for cables and adapters is Anker and they make a USB-C to HDMI adapter that has some really strong reviews:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Anker Premium USB-C Hub with HDMI and Power Delivery][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's best to stay away from &quot;house brands&quot; and brands you have never heard of.  A Google engineer has been testing various USBC cables and has found many which can fry your gear.  Subsequently, [Amazon has banned cheap USB cables.][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://tr.im/anker_usbc_hub_video_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/225719-amazon-bans-cheap-usb-c-cables-in-wake-of-google-engineers-crusade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7194" RevisionGUID="abf8966f-a7d3-4cec-bb6e-4147558c1a3a" CreationDate="2017-04-06T18:46:47.517" UserId="5988" Text="I've been looking to replace a couple [Anker PowerPort](https://www.anker.com/products/A2123113)-style 5-port USB-chargers around my house (computer desk, entryway table, laboratory workbench) with ones into which I can plug my [15″ Macbook Pro](http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the MBP tops out at 4.35 amps @ 20V (which the [Apple-branded 87W power-adapter](http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MNF82LL/A/87w-usb-c-power-adapter) provides); but the [fastest Anker USB-C product](https://www.anker.com/products/A2014111) I could find only supports 30W on a single port (and only *has* a single port, at that), while also having [serious production issues](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2UR46XXKO1HKW) that disindicate it for everyday use — while the [only multi-port product](https://www.anker.com/products/A2052111) with USB-C doesn't even support power-delivery (providing only the base 5V, for a total of 15W!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the search continues. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A **multi-port** … *(ideally, many-port — 6+ would be great; but minimum of 4)*&#xD;&#xA;2. … **USB-C** … *(≥4 USB-C ports; though a couple 5V USB-A ports wouldn't go amiss)*&#xD;&#xA;3. … **100W** charger. *(i.e. supports USB-PD's 20V mode)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I *don't* need is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A **hub**, *(I don't need data pass-through of any sort, just wall-charging of multiple USB-C devices simultaneously wherever I happen to be in the house)*&#xD;&#xA; - nor **full-speed charging of multiple devices**. *(as long as any individual port can charge at 100W if left alone, I'm happy if connecting multiple high-draw devices slows it down)*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7194" RevisionGUID="abf8966f-a7d3-4cec-bb6e-4147558c1a3a" CreationDate="2017-04-06T18:46:47.517" UserId="5988" Text="Multi-port, 100W @ 5A, USB-C charger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7194" RevisionGUID="abf8966f-a7d3-4cec-bb6e-4147558c1a3a" CreationDate="2017-04-06T18:46:47.517" UserId="5988" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21962" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="6190cede-22aa-44ab-acef-023ca36d0acd" CreationDate="2017-04-06T20:23:47.740" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="9110357b-345c-4dae-b917-e38d84a18bd1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T10:03:19.963" UserId="964" Comment="added 174 characters in body" Text="**Update:** See my answer. **TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if **anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase, whether laptop or desktop, I'd love to hear about it and please post below**. A PATA-SATA adapter that can do this would also be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ha, I found this one: http://www.datadev.com/hard-drive-eraser-data-security-secure-erase-overwrite-software-hammer.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At four grand, a little on the pricey side :)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21972" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7196" RevisionGUID="311d1b30-ec9e-4029-9fae-395ca6febd96" CreationDate="2017-04-08T10:48:38.507" UserId="5992" Text="I would like to build a home server that runs Ubuntu Server with Resilio Sync and RClone. I think I can handle the software side but am having a hard time with the hardware side. I don't need wifi as I can plug it straight into my router (although I might decide to move it later so being able to add the capability might be nice). I would like it to be quiet since it will be in a living area. I would like it to be low cost maybe $200 to $300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would back it up to Google Cloud once a month with RClone. Most of the data will not be synced with other computers since a lot of it is for historical purposes or rarely used. Some of the data would need to be used with Resilio sync with selective sync for when we need the data on our other computers, this would be photos (over 12k and growing), movies, and some files. As Resilio Sync can be a bit of a resource hog when syncing 10s of thousands of files I will try to limit how many files it actually syncs but it will still be significant with the photos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need something that has decent processing power. Can upload relatively quickly and hold up to 200 G and growing amount of data (so, maybe 1 TB for now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my needs aren't super great but I want to get something that will last 5 years or so, so I don't have to go through this again for a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a place I can find a tutorial that will guide me through this? Many of the computers I'm finding seem to be overkill for my needs. I found this [Intel NM10 Black Mini](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856205007) but they say it is loud. The NUCs seem like they are more than what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks ahead of time for any help/guidance on this topic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21973" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7196" RevisionGUID="311d1b30-ec9e-4029-9fae-395ca6febd96" CreationDate="2017-04-08T10:48:38.507" UserId="5992" Text="Headless Home Server w/ Ubuntu Server - Resilio Sync - RClone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21974" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7196" RevisionGUID="311d1b30-ec9e-4029-9fae-395ca6febd96" CreationDate="2017-04-08T10:48:38.507" UserId="5992" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21980" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="c9d62968-00f0-4e14-b526-19b5bd428667" CreationDate="2017-04-08T18:46:10.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="21984" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7196" RevisionGUID="22a3f2e8-3d6d-4ef2-83b8-0a3cc04e6bd5" CreationDate="2017-04-09T00:03:51.183" UserId="5992" Comment="added 126 characters in body" Text="I would like to build a home server that runs Ubuntu Server with Resilio Sync and RClone. I think I can handle the software side but am having a hard time with the hardware side. I don't need wifi as I can plug it straight into my router (although I might decide to move it later so being able to add the capability might be nice). I would like it to be quiet since it will be in a living area. I would like it to be low cost maybe $200 to $300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would back it up to Google Cloud once a month with RClone. Most of the data will not be synced with other computers since a lot of it is for historical purposes or rarely used. Some of the data would need to be used with Resilio sync with selective sync for when we need the data on our other computers, this would be photos (over 12k and growing), movies, and some files. As Resilio Sync can be a bit of a resource hog when syncing 10s of thousands of files I will try to limit how many files it actually syncs but it will still be significant with the photos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need something that has decent processing power. Can upload relatively quickly and hold up to 200 G and growing amount of data (so, maybe 1 TB for now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my needs aren't super great but I want to get something that will last 5 years or so, so I don't have to go through this again for a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a place I can find a tutorial that will guide me through this? Many of the computers I'm finding seem to be overkill for my needs. I found this [Intel NM10 Black Mini](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856205007) but they say it is loud. The NUCs seem like they are more than what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks ahead of time for any help/guidance on this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After looking at this more I've found an affordable Intel NUC that should serve my needs. Intel NUC NUC5CPYH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="24e5c769-8068-44a2-97f7-dad08204c2a5" CreationDate="2017-04-09T08:15:55.953" UserId="4832" Text="I have seen interested external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see what if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but are there more effective hardware solutions? Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="24e5c769-8068-44a2-97f7-dad08204c2a5" CreationDate="2017-04-09T08:15:55.953" UserId="4832" Text="Ideas for a Passive Cooled Xeon Phi in a Desktop PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="24e5c769-8068-44a2-97f7-dad08204c2a5" CreationDate="2017-04-09T08:15:55.953" UserId="4832" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="f2f9aab2-4184-4d00-a90b-315e1633bb9d" CreationDate="2017-04-09T10:00:52.290" UserId="4832" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I have seen interesting external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but are there more effective hardware solutions? Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21989" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="012e8245-4676-4821-81d9-6a5084284c6c" CreationDate="2017-04-09T10:39:52.667" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="21995" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="a3e6099e-8a7b-41c7-8883-77f4085b385c" CreationDate="2017-04-09T15:25:05.930" UserId="5445" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later running on iOS 9 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March but is available for pre-order now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The shipping date for the Occipital Bridge has been moved to April 28." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="df5ead15-116e-442a-9667-8096e355a1e7" CreationDate="2017-04-09T18:00:24.790" UserId="1951" Text="I have two audio sources, both using 3.55mm &quot;headphone jack&quot; outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have one set of stereo speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to connect both sources to my single pair of speakers. Ideally, I'd like to be able to hear both sources at the same time. I DEFINITELY do not want to have to press a button to manually switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need anything fancy—-no individual volume control or microphone inputs or anything like that. But I do want to avoid any significant loss of audio quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I do this for under $25? Or if that's completely unreasonable, how can I do it for as little money as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; While I suspect this won't matter since the audio is already analog, I play a lot of rhythm video games, so anything that introduces latency is a no-go.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="df5ead15-116e-442a-9667-8096e355a1e7" CreationDate="2017-04-09T18:00:24.790" UserId="1951" Text="Two Audio Sources -&gt; One set of speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="df5ead15-116e-442a-9667-8096e355a1e7" CreationDate="2017-04-09T18:00:24.790" UserId="1951" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="11cdb13c-8ece-41d3-9bbd-42655a0d0e47" CreationDate="2017-04-10T03:32:48.893" UserId="4832" Comment="added 405 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have seen interesting external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but are there more effective hardware solutions? Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, a hardware solution that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can provide better passive cooling than normal desktop fans&#xD;&#xA; - Can be mounted to the back of a PC case (or modified to do so)&#xD;&#xA; - Can be stacked vertically, as I may get 2 Xeon Phis for the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be powered by the existing power supply of the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in the color: black (I guess other colors wouldn't be a deal killer)&#xD;&#xA; - The Xeon Phis are already ungodly expensive, so I might as well go all out, I'll say a generous budget of $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22001" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="11cdb13c-8ece-41d3-9bbd-42655a0d0e47" CreationDate="2017-04-10T03:32:48.893" UserId="4832" Comment="added 405 characters in body; edited title" Text="Advanced Passive Cooling Solution Needed (for Xeon Phi)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22002" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="2586f5bd-9d69-4499-b222-b0c252a5a92d" CreationDate="2017-04-10T03:46:23.337" UserId="4832" Comment="added 509 characters in body" Text="**Premise**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen interesting external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but I am convinced there must be a better mousetrap, so to speak.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why can't I just use normal fans?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xeon Phis are ungodly expensive, and I don't want some rinky-dink to fan have to be responsible for this huge investment. I also have performance in mind, if I can bring temperatures down, the coprocessor will be able to work better. And lastly, by reducing the strain, I can hopefully improve the lifespan of the Xeon Phi's in a more meaningful degree than your average fan can hope to match. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What am I looking for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, a hardware solution that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can provide better passive cooling than normal desktop fans&#xD;&#xA; - Can be mounted to the back of a PC case (or modified to do so)&#xD;&#xA; - Can be stacked vertically, as I may get 2 Xeon Phis for the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be powered by the existing power supply of the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in the color: black (I guess other colors wouldn't be a deal killer)&#xD;&#xA; - I might as well go all out, budget: $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="21a1be04-4824-410b-84ae-db59dd50b90c" CreationDate="2017-04-10T05:24:03.897" UserId="6000" Text="I have recently gotten back into online gaming after being introduced to Overwatch. I've found that in order to get the most out of the game it's important to be on voice. I have a pair of bluetooth headphones that also doubles as a headset which is what I am currently using to talk to my teammates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I've run into two issues. The first is that the quality of the game sound and mic is not very good when the headphones are in headset mode and the second is that the battery has died on me a few times in game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution for this would be to get a wired headset in order to talk while in game, wired (USB or analog) provides better quality then bluetooth and usually doesn't consume any power. However, I like having a pair of bluetooth headphones that I can use to listen to music while I'm doing stuff around the house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any headphones that support bluetooth and a wired option that also have a mic built in? I've been googling around but most headsets for gaming look to support wireless audio over wifi only. The closest I've come is [these](http://www.808audio.com/headphones/performer-bt/) and I'm not sure the mic quality would be very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="21a1be04-4824-410b-84ae-db59dd50b90c" CreationDate="2017-04-10T05:24:03.897" UserId="6000" Text="Headset with Bluetooth and Wired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="21a1be04-4824-410b-84ae-db59dd50b90c" CreationDate="2017-04-10T05:24:03.897" UserId="6000" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22006" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="80552f8f-b2a3-424d-ab19-e89cdbdf9d51" CreationDate="2017-04-10T16:51:54.257" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="d7959de3-0427-4914-ad82-c4751ba040fe" CreationDate="2017-04-10T18:01:36.050" UserId="4832" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="**Premise**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen interesting external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but I am convinced there must be a better mousetrap, so to speak.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why can't I just use normal fans?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xeon Phis are ungodly expensive, and I don't want some rinky-dink fan have to be responsible for this huge investment. I also have performance in mind, if I can bring temperatures down, the coprocessor will be able to work better. And lastly, by reducing the strain, I can hopefully improve the lifespan of the Xeon Phi's in a more meaningful degree than your average fan can hope to match. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What am I looking for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, a hardware solution that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can provide better passive cooling than normal desktop fans&#xD;&#xA; - Can be mounted to the back of a PC case (or modified to do so)&#xD;&#xA; - Can be stacked vertically, as I may get 2 Xeon Phis for the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be powered by the existing power supply of the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in the color: black (I guess other colors wouldn't be a deal killer)&#xD;&#xA; - I might as well go all out, budget: $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22008" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7199" RevisionGUID="ea131ff6-899b-4db3-9497-14e48a99be5d" CreationDate="2017-04-10T18:14:26.307" UserId="4832" Comment="added 139 characters in body" Text="**Premise**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen interesting external vacuum/clamp on coolers that are mounted on laptops to cooldown the hot air around the fan as seen [here](https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-Installation-Compatible/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491725344&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=laptop+fan+cooler&amp;psc=1). As laptops don't have liquid cooling, this seems to be one of the most effective cooling solutions available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, I want to see if I can apply an equally effective approach to a coprocessor that doesn't have liquid cooling capabilites (such as the Xeon Phi). I have seen people mount normal external fans on the back of the desktop PC case to help the passively cooled Xeon Phi, but I am convinced there must be a better mousetrap, so to speak.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Why can't I just use normal fans?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xeon Phis are ungodly expensive, and I don't want some rinky-dink fan have to be responsible for this huge investment. I also have performance in mind, if I can bring temperatures down, the coprocessor will be able to work better. And lastly, by reducing the strain, I can hopefully improve the lifespan of the Xeon Phi's in a more meaningful degree than your average fan can hope to match. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What am I looking for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe something similar to the laptop product I alluded to above (but for desktops)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, a hardware solution that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can provide better passive cooling than normal desktop fans&#xD;&#xA; - Can be mounted to the back of a PC case (or modified to do so)&#xD;&#xA; - Can be stacked vertically, as I may get 2 Xeon Phis for the desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Can be powered by the existing power supply of the desktop PC. PSU is a 700W EVGA as seen [here](http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=100-B1-0700-K1). I'm willing to change PSU's if necessary.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be bought in the color: black (I guess other colors wouldn't be a deal killer)&#xD;&#xA; - I might as well go all out, budget: $300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22009" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="45c91dd0-a037-4e84-9b01-fd9ba412de1d" CreationDate="2017-04-10T20:29:43.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7203" RevisionGUID="fe31ce1a-7f58-40d8-b1e0-3a9896b2996c" CreationDate="2017-04-11T04:52:51.457" UserId="6004" Text="You haven't mentioned which OS it is that you'd like to use so I'll split this up by operating systems. You did mention Windows Ink, so I presume Windows is your OS of choice but for the sake of completeness I'll offer the most popular options for both ecosystems.&#xA;&#xA;**Windows:**&#xA;&#xA;One of the most popular options of late is to use Microsoft's Surface tablet. This tablet could be connected to a monitor, so you can draw and interact with the tablet and it would be mirrored on the monitor. This configuration would match your ideal setup. The current latest and greatest is the Surface Pro 4 but the Surface Pro 5 is slated to arrive soon. &#xA;&#xA;Surface Pro 1 and 2 used Wacom digitizers and styluses but Surface 3 and newer now use nTrig's technology for the pen input. Surface tablets can also take advantage of Windows Ink&#xA;&#xA;You may also want to check out the Surface Studio, which is like a giant easel/canvas for drawing, although this doesn't fully match your ideal setup. The Surface Studio also uses nTrig digitizers.&#xA;&#xA;There ARE other options out on the market that are laptops and have digitizers on their screens but they are difficult to find and lead to even more difficulty ascertaining what level of precision they offer.&#xA;&#xA;**macOS:** &#xA;&#xA;You can use an iPad Pro with Apple Pencil and an app called AstroPad to mirror a Mac's screen onto the iPad, whereby you can interact with it using the pencil and touch. AstroPad is designed specifically for drawing and illustration (in contrast to something like Duet Display, which just turns your iPad into touchscreen. This is actually reverse to your ideal setup because Photoshop/Illustrator would be running on the Mac and not on the iPad. The iPad would just be a drawing tablet in this setup.&#xA;&#xA;At present, the Apple Pencil ONLY works with the iPad Pro models. This might not change even in the future.&#xA;&#xA;You can also get a cheaper, regular iPad and pair that with a Bluetooth stylus like Wacom Bamboo. I've seen this be a very effective tool for drawing as well but you lose out on tilt control. Also, the palm rejection is definitely subpar and may require you to wear gloves to draw so that your fingers don't cause accidental marks&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**Regarding styluses:**&#xA;&#xA;So far I have mentioned styluses from 3 companies: Wacom, nTrig and Apple&#xA;&#xA;Many have their opinions regarding Wacom vs nTrig so I'll leave that choice up to you as the internet is full of arguments for and against each one. Each definitely has its set of pros and cons. &#xA;&#xA;The Apple Pencil is the relative newcomer to the market but its inner workings seem to be very similar to that of nTrig's.&#xA;&#xA;Personally I prefer the lower (maybe perceived) latency/higher responsiveness of Wacom digitizers/styluses over nTrig, having tried out both myself. There is no real perceivable difference between the nTrig stylus vs the Apple Pencil. I do know that the iPad Pro reacts to input quicker than a competing nTrig Windows tablet would (down to Apple's optimization I suppose)&#xA;&#xA;From personal experience with all three styluses, I'd say Wacom is the most natural feeling, followed by Apple Pencil and then nTrig.&#xA;&#xA;All three offer tilt support and similar levels of pressure sensitivity. But of course with an iPad Pro, you won't have to worry about drivers and troubleshooting software issues like Wacom and nTrig can sometimes cause on the Windows side. &#xA;&#xA;As far as accuracy/preciseness is concerned, Wacom styluses/digitizers suffer from a minor amount of misalignment/parallax effect where the point on screen doesn't exactly match the tip of the stylus. This is really minor and isn't distracting (atleast to me). nTrig styluses seem to suffer from wobble, if you draw at slow speeds&#xA;&#xA;*I would've loved to post many helpful links but alas, my reputation isn't high enough. If this answers your question, I think I should be able to edit this answer and add links to this answer for you and for future reference*&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22018" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7203" RevisionGUID="89758460-d56a-4005-89c1-c0fe24efd42d" CreationDate="2017-04-11T17:02:43.327" UserId="6004" Comment="missing closing parenthesis" Text="You haven't mentioned which OS it is that you'd like to use so I'll split this up by operating systems. You did mention Windows Ink, so I presume Windows is your OS of choice but for the sake of completeness I'll offer the most popular options for both ecosystems.&#xA;&#xA;**Windows:**&#xA;&#xA;One of the most popular options of late is to use Microsoft's Surface tablet. This tablet could be connected to a monitor, so you can draw and interact with the tablet and it would be mirrored on the monitor. This configuration would match your ideal setup. The current latest and greatest is the Surface Pro 4 but the Surface Pro 5 is slated to arrive soon. &#xA;&#xA;Surface Pro 1 and 2 used Wacom digitizers and styluses but Surface 3 and newer now use nTrig's technology for the pen input. Surface tablets can also take advantage of Windows Ink&#xA;&#xA;You may also want to check out the Surface Studio, which is like a giant easel/canvas for drawing, although this doesn't fully match your ideal setup. The Surface Studio also uses nTrig digitizers.&#xA;&#xA;There ARE other options out on the market that are laptops and have digitizers on their screens but they are difficult to find and lead to even more difficulty ascertaining what level of precision they offer.&#xA;&#xA;**macOS:** &#xA;&#xA;You can use an iPad Pro with Apple Pencil and an app called AstroPad to mirror a Mac's screen onto the iPad, whereby you can interact with it using the pencil and touch. AstroPad is designed specifically for drawing and illustration (in contrast to something like Duet Display, which just turns your iPad into touchscreen.) This is actually reverse to your ideal setup because Photoshop/Illustrator would be running on the Mac and not on the iPad. The iPad would just be a drawing tablet in this setup.&#xA;&#xA;At present, the Apple Pencil ONLY works with the iPad Pro models. This might not change even in the future.&#xA;&#xA;You can also get a cheaper, regular iPad and pair that with a Bluetooth stylus like Wacom Bamboo. I've seen this be a very effective tool for drawing as well but you lose out on tilt control. Also, the palm rejection is definitely subpar and may require you to wear gloves to draw so that your fingers don't cause accidental marks&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**Regarding styluses:**&#xA;&#xA;So far I have mentioned styluses from 3 companies: Wacom, nTrig and Apple&#xA;&#xA;Many have their opinions regarding Wacom vs nTrig so I'll leave that choice up to you as the internet is full of arguments for and against each one. Each definitely has its set of pros and cons. &#xA;&#xA;The Apple Pencil is the relative newcomer to the market but its inner workings seem to be very similar to that of nTrig's.&#xA;&#xA;Personally I prefer the lower (maybe perceived) latency/higher responsiveness of Wacom digitizers/styluses over nTrig, having tried out both myself. There is no real perceivable difference between the nTrig stylus vs the Apple Pencil. I do know that the iPad Pro reacts to input quicker than a competing nTrig Windows tablet would (down to Apple's optimization I suppose)&#xA;&#xA;From personal experience with all three styluses, I'd say Wacom is the most natural feeling, followed by Apple Pencil and then nTrig.&#xA;&#xA;All three offer tilt support and similar levels of pressure sensitivity. But of course with an iPad Pro, you won't have to worry about drivers and troubleshooting software issues like Wacom and nTrig can sometimes cause on the Windows side. &#xA;&#xA;As far as accuracy/preciseness is concerned, Wacom styluses/digitizers suffer from a minor amount of misalignment/parallax effect where the point on screen doesn't exactly match the tip of the stylus. This is really minor and isn't distracting (atleast to me). nTrig styluses seem to suffer from wobble, if you draw at slow speeds&#xA;&#xA;*I would've loved to post many helpful links but alas, my reputation isn't high enough. If this answers your question, I think I should be able to edit this answer and add links to this answer for you and for future reference*&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22019" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="0c5f3fc1-dba1-4b90-af93-3776b88f3f26" CreationDate="2017-04-11T18:05:29.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7206" RevisionGUID="343a6a54-9da5-4340-a028-577386e24464" CreationDate="2017-04-12T10:58:08.447" UserId="6011" Text="I want to buy a NVIDIA GTX 1070 GPU for deep learning tasks. The following GPUs are the candidates:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE GV-N1070G1 GAMING-8GD Graphic Card&#xD;&#xA;- MSI-GeForce-GTX-1070-ARMOR-8G-OC-Graphics-Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The former is around 100$ more expensive in my country. I think the main difference is their cooling system. Do you think it worth paying this more 100$ and buy the GIGABYTE brand? Or the difference is not so important?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7206" RevisionGUID="343a6a54-9da5-4340-a028-577386e24464" CreationDate="2017-04-12T10:58:08.447" UserId="6011" Text="Comparing two GTX 1070 GPUs for deep learning tasks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7206" RevisionGUID="343a6a54-9da5-4340-a028-577386e24464" CreationDate="2017-04-12T10:58:08.447" UserId="6011" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7207" RevisionGUID="915d91fe-5379-4b54-a5d3-269874a6a951" CreationDate="2017-04-12T10:59:38.403" UserId="6012" Text="This will not work as you intend, i.e. to improve performance/bandwidth on your LAN. This is not a limitation of the wireless protocols (You also would not see an increase in performance using two NIC's (network cards) on the same LAN), it is due to the TCP/IP:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example sending a file from IP 1 to IP 2, the individual file must follow the same path for the functioanlity in TCP to work, that ensure the data gets from point A to B with integrity intact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have a network card with 4x GBit/s ports, and they are teamed together (using the LACP protocol, not that it matters). When sending/receiving files from another server with the same setup, the maximum throughput is equivalent to 1 GBit/s (i.e. it maxes out at about 113 MB/s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want better performance, buy some decent Cat6 cable with a colour that matches the walls, and run a length between your computers and ensure they have 1gb network cards (you can get those for $10 these days). It will save a whole lot of pain trying different technologies that will not acheive what you want." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7209" RevisionGUID="d96570ed-028d-4bcd-a6b4-48a9a7d7fd8d" CreationDate="2017-04-12T14:16:47.530" UserId="6004" Text="Almost all always-on voice recognition phones are flagship phones. Unfortunately the smaller phones tend to be budget phones, which means lack the always on voice feature.&#xA;&#xA;The prices on flagship phones are usually far past the $400 mark bit here's a list of recent Android phones that I should have always on voice feature:&#xA;&#xA;**LG V20** (around $700)&#xA;&#xA; - 5.7&quot; LCD screen &#xA; - 4GB RAM&#xA; - 3200 mAH battery&#xA;&#xA;**Google Pixel** (around $750)&#xA;&#xA;- 5.0&quot; AMOLED screen&#xA;- 4GB RAM&#xA;- 2770 mAH battery&#xA;&#xA;[Moto Z Play][1]/[Moto Z Play Droid][2] (around $400/450)&#xA;&#xA; - 5.5&quot; AMOLED screen&#xA; - 3GB RAM&#xA; - 3510 mAH battery&#xA;&#xA;So out of all of these, only the Moto Z Play phones are in your ideal price range.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play&#xA;  [2]: https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play-droid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22035" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7210" RevisionGUID="3f4e0b7e-5446-4dea-94df-a008a29e6cc0" CreationDate="2017-04-12T16:40:17.473" UserId="5358" Text="The brand and cooling systems are NOT the main differences here, so let's break it down. I will now attempt a Venn diagram in bullet point format:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs shared by both the MSI and Gigbyte models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 GPU&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB 8008MHz GDDR5 Graphics RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Display connectors (3x DP, 1x HDMI 1x DL DVI-D)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs specific to MSI model:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Base clock: 1556 MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Boost clock: 1746 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs specific to Gigabyte model:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Base clock: 1594 MHz (gaming mode), 1620 MHz (OC mode)&#xD;&#xA; - Boost clock: 1784 MHz (gaming mode), 1822 MHz (OC mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you are paying the extra $100 for is not just the cooling system, it's also the pre-overclocked card. You are getting a card with a theoretical maximum speed that is 76 MHz faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommendation (TL;DR): If you have the extra money and want the little extra bit of power, go for it. But being that you chose the 1070 instead of the 1080, I'm thinking that little bit of power isn't very important to you, and probably not worth the $100 investment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22036" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7206" RevisionGUID="37d383ed-1282-4356-b9ac-db9cb28764d2" CreationDate="2017-04-12T17:02:15.643" UserId="5001" Comment="Changed to answer the question without soliciting primarily opinion based answers" Text="I want to buy a NVIDIA GTX 1070 GPU for deep learning tasks. The following GPUs are the candidates:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE GV-N1070G1 GAMING-8GD Graphic Card&#xD;&#xA;- MSI-GeForce-GTX-1070-ARMOR-8G-OC-Graphics-Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The former is around 100$ more expensive in my country. I think the main difference is their cooling system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any additional features that justify the price difference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22037" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7206" RevisionGUID="37d383ed-1282-4356-b9ac-db9cb28764d2" CreationDate="2017-04-12T17:02:15.643" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 6011 edit id of 586" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7211" RevisionGUID="6113b07b-7ace-431e-8c88-c05c552b35f6" CreationDate="2017-04-12T20:14:40.027" UserId="5344" Text="I'm planning to buy a new laptop and planning to have is for the next 5-7 years laptop. I wanted the laptop for graphic design, programming, video editing and gaming(please don't recommend desktop setup because I'll be traveling a lot thanks). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Alienware:**&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind the heaviness since I know it has a great built quality but I the color accuracy is not that accurate like XPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Chosen specs:**&#xD;&#xA;-	7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ (Quad-Core, 6MB Cache, up to 3.8GHz w/ Turbo Boost)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060 with 6GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;-15.6 inch FHD (1920 x 1080) 60Hz IPS Anti-Glare 300-nits NVIDIA G-SYNC Enabled&#xD;&#xA;-16GB DDR4 at 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA;-	128GB M.2 SATA 6Gb/s SSD (Boot) + 1TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s (Storage)&#xD;&#xA;-	Killer 1535 802.11ac 2x2 WiFi and Bluetooth 4.1&#xD;&#xA;- **$1,674.99**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell XPS:**&#xD;&#xA;I love the screen and it's almost edgeless but I'm afraid since it's too thin(probably smaller fan). Maybe it could get overheat easily for gaming and probably can be broken like 1-3 years for continuous use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Chosen specs:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;-7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ Quad Core Processor (6M cache, up to 3.8 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;-16GB DDR4-2400MHz&#xD;&#xA;-512GB PCIe Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;-NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050 with 4GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;-15.6&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) InfinityEdge&#xD;&#xA;-Killer 1535 802.11ac 2x2 WiFi and Bluetooth 4.1&#xD;&#xA;-97WHr battery&#xD;&#xA;-$1,749.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I need your help guys which one is really worth it and will last for years(please include explanation too, why you chose XPS or alienware). Thanks !!!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22040" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7211" RevisionGUID="6113b07b-7ace-431e-8c88-c05c552b35f6" CreationDate="2017-04-12T20:14:40.027" UserId="5344" Text="Alienware R3 15 or Dell XPS 15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22041" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7211" RevisionGUID="6113b07b-7ace-431e-8c88-c05c552b35f6" CreationDate="2017-04-12T20:14:40.027" UserId="5344" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7212" RevisionGUID="ebf44179-e7ac-44b8-af98-1aacc8ce81df" CreationDate="2017-04-12T22:32:47.543" UserId="976" Text="In my opinion, you are better off going with the Alienware R3 Laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of reasons as to why I would recommend it over the Dell XPS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1060 will be much more useful than the GTX 1050 in both Gaming and Content Creation (Due to the more CUDA Cores and VRAM)&#xD;&#xA; - An SSD/HDD combo will net you both fast loading times as well as much more storage space&#xD;&#xA; - Better value, considering you are getting a G-Sync Panel and a higher end GPU for a lower cost than the XPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are concerned about color accuracy and believe that you will benefit from a better display, I would suggest saving up some money for a more professional monitor to use when you plan on doing content creation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot guarantee that either of the laptops mentioned will last for over 5 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="fdb2b78a-b7aa-4918-863e-0ff777acd132" CreationDate="2017-04-12T23:02:23.253" UserId="6014" Text="Good afternoon,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to buy an older flagship touchscreen model smartphone, as my primary phone, and I would like to know your opinions and recommendations on what I should look for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something with a small footprint, like around a 4&quot; screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My carrier is T-Moble, so any unlocked GSM smartphone is okay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No or little bloatware. This is important to me. This is why I can't buy samsung phones anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance and features comparable to a galaxy s5. Longer battery life preferable. I dont play any games on it, but do need reliable and glitch free smooth performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom firmware should be available for this phone, and tools for flashing it should be available as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I'd like to know if flashing a custom firmware will remove all risks of having a used phone modified to spy or collect your personal information, or will this not be enough to do this? Should I instead look for a phone that doesn't have custom firmware available, like Galaxy G800A? This would eliminate risks of getting the phone modified, but I am not able to get the ridiculous amounts of bloatware garbage off it without custom firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Galaxy S5 Mini was a perfect option for me, until I found that I wasn't able to load custom firmware on it, and it was constantly running updates on processes I was not able to get rid of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard good things about Motorola phones and their platform of little to no bloatware. Is this true? Are they comparable in quality?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for specific models of phones would be greatly appreciated. Oh and price range $100-200. Thank you very much.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22044" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="fdb2b78a-b7aa-4918-863e-0ff777acd132" CreationDate="2017-04-12T23:02:23.253" UserId="6014" Text="Looking for a Small Used/New End User Android phone with Minimal Bloatware under $200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22045" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="fdb2b78a-b7aa-4918-863e-0ff777acd132" CreationDate="2017-04-12T23:02:23.253" UserId="6014" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22053" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="34317753-0f4f-4133-941a-d63599c4d41c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T04:56:34.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22054" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="03a54053-b062-4ac8-9592-02a1a35b8236" CreationDate="2017-04-13T08:05:32.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="a7a54010-c420-42d2-8319-7d04eb6f87a8" CreationDate="2017-04-13T09:43:58.087" UserId="-1" Comment="moved the price range up" Text="Good afternoon,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to buy an older flagship touchscreen model smartphone, as my primary phone, and I would like to know your opinions and recommendations on what I should look for. My price range is $100-$200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something with a small footprint, like around a 4&quot; screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My carrier is T-Mobile, so any unlocked GSM smartphone is okay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No or little bloatware. This is important to me. This is why I can't buy samsung phones anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance and features comparable to a galaxy s5. Longer battery life preferable. I dont play any games on it, but do need reliable and glitch free smooth performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom firmware should be available for this phone, and tools for flashing it should be available as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I'd like to know if flashing a custom firmware will remove all risks of having a used phone modified to spy or collect your personal information, or will this not be enough to do this? Should I instead look for a phone that doesn't have custom firmware available, like Galaxy G800A? This would eliminate risks of getting the phone modified, but I am not able to get the ridiculous amounts of bloatware garbage off it without custom firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Galaxy S5 Mini was a perfect option for me, until I found that I wasn't able to load custom firmware on it, and it was constantly running updates on processes I was not able to get rid of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard good things about Motorola phones and their platform of little to no bloatware. Is this true? Are they comparable in quality?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for specific models of phones would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22056" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="a7a54010-c420-42d2-8319-7d04eb6f87a8" CreationDate="2017-04-13T09:43:58.087" Comment="Proposed by 167.220.24.173|4cd90f03-e977-4b1a-add4-7c43f6ed03ad approved by 203, 8 edit id of 587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7213" RevisionGUID="35abb455-25dd-4280-94c6-68bf99623378" CreationDate="2017-04-13T09:44:46.387" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 453 characters in body" Text="Good afternoon,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to buy an older flagship touchscreen model smartphone, as my primary phone, and I would like to know your opinions and recommendations on what I should look for. My price range is $100-$200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something with a small footprint, like around a 4&quot; screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My carrier is T-Mobile, so any unlocked GSM smartphone is okay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No or little bloatware. This is important to me. This is why I can't buy samsung phones anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance and features comparable to a galaxy s5. Longer battery life preferable. I dont play any games on it, but do need reliable and glitch free smooth performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom firmware should be available for this phone, and tools for flashing it should be available as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Galaxy S5 Mini was a perfect option for me, until I found that I wasn't able to load custom firmware on it, and it was constantly running updates on processes I was not able to get rid of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard good things about Motorola phones and their platform of little to no bloatware. Is this true? Are they comparable in quality?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for specific models of phones would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7214" RevisionGUID="3fe9c9df-08f9-44f5-85c4-e8206d6497b6" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:56:52.317" UserId="6017" Text="Recently my MSI GE60 2PL cpu fan started rattling and making weird noises as if its blades were touching something.&lt;br&gt;I opened the laptop and removed dust from fan (i removed the fan too to check if something was stuck in it) after some more testing and research I came to the conclusion that the fan &quot;died&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So i ask you this : what brands do you suggest for replacement ? Knowing that my warranty has expired and that sending my laptop to some MSI support center (?) is out of the question.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;PS : I did find some replacements in aliexpress but i'm just not sure which brand to buy.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7214" RevisionGUID="3fe9c9df-08f9-44f5-85c4-e8206d6497b6" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:56:52.317" UserId="6017" Text="Laptop CPU fan replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7214" RevisionGUID="3fe9c9df-08f9-44f5-85c4-e8206d6497b6" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:56:52.317" UserId="6017" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22061" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="7a06514f-32eb-4fde-8202-d268d538a61c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:14:55.397" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://serverfault.com/ with https://serverfault.com/" Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22062" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="752" RevisionGUID="b5c7360c-56ac-4aa9-900c-bae68c53bb12" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:18:37.647" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://android.stackexchange.com/ with https://android.stackexchange.com/" Text="My old router died, and I want to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if I have to change the router, I want to try to see if I can do a setup like: Router + External Hard Drive + an android application maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically want to have a one-way sync of our pictures (my wife and I) to a HDD that is connected to the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sync would be through wi-fi, something like google is doing right now for me, but this time I would like to be in control of the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: what to look for in a router? I wouldn't want to spend too much, but I don't even know what to look for. Is it enough if the router has USB port on it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if there are routers that come with a special android app, or I can just try to look into some &quot;universal&quot; software like [this one][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: NAS device seems like a good idea, but it seems too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;I bought a RT-N18U router, and it has [this application][2] specifically made for it, we'll see how it works, I'll let you guys know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE 2:&#xD;&#xA;[I had some errors][3], but it works fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bv.wifisync&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asustek.aicloud&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/128352/syncme-failed-to-connect-to-computer-isconnected-failed-econnrefused-connecti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22063" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1540" RevisionGUID="04e35c90-197b-4fcf-8a95-803cc6f61f9a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:18:37.647" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://android.stackexchange.com/ with https://android.stackexchange.com/" Text="I would recommend the [Amazon Fire 10&quot; Wi-Fi 16GB](http://www.amazon.com/Fire-HD-10-1-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00VKIY9RG) which starts at **$179.99** but you may be able to find it cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Fire Picture][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This features an HD display of 1280x800 and quoting from the Amazon website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fire HD 10 features a widescreen 1280 x 800 high definition display with over a million pixels (149 ppi) for a bright, vivid picture. Enjoy a great viewing experience with wide viewing angles, less glare, blacker blacks and more brightness thanks to a fully laminated IPS (in-plane switching) LCD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People say the screen quality is great, the reviews praise it for having great screen quality&lt;sup&gt;[1][2]&lt;/sup&gt; and for having a low price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17482/how-can-i-install-vanilla-android-on-the-kindle-fire) StackExchange question on Android SE, describes how you can install Vanilla Android on a Fire tablet. This does require a root which you may do if you are comfortable with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HUUun.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.com/review/R3UZGVXM3XMBZL/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00VKIY9RG&amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;nodeID=370783011&amp;store=amazon-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22064" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2643" RevisionGUID="2308ea1f-e3c7-4193-a8eb-131b87492040" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:18:37.647" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://android.stackexchange.com/ with https://android.stackexchange.com/" Text="With things like Maru OS, Complete Linux Installer and non-root Debian out there, I see more and more people plugging their phone into an external monitor, pairing a bluetooth keyboard and mouse, and using it as a desktop computer. I'm thrilled by this idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case anyone is wondering: the Linux kernel can be made to run Android and GNU userlands at the same time, so that you have both a phone and desktop computer in a single device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It occurs to me that you would get a better experience on an x86 phone, since the ecosystem of desktop apps is much better for x86 than for ARM. Although they are a tiny minority, I know that there are several nice x86 Android phones out there at the moment. The way Dalvik works means that [they still run the normal Android apps.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the Asus Zenphone 2 is quite powerful, but is it powerful enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a powerful x86 Android phone. It needs to allow &quot;loop devices&quot; (or whatever it's called) This is because that is required for Complete Linux Installer). It also needs to be easy to root and install Xposed Framework on. It should also have hardware allowing me to run desktop apps like Google Chrome with a some basic extensions and several tabs open. I would use apps like Transmission, Skype, Banshee, VLC, Libre Office, OpenShot (no HD), Audacity, GIMP, Photoshop (Wine), Lightroom (Wine), etc. I would probably occasionally run three or four applications at the same time. Is this possible? I mean, my very modest laptop does all this, and it's pretty similar to, for example, the Asus Zenphone 2 in terms of specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that this would *not* be a dual boot. Stuff like Maru OS (only ARM currently) actually lets you run GNU and Android at the very same time, so that if you're in desktop mode you can still receive calls, notifications, etc, from Android.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a powerful enough x86 Android phone in the market today to give me a good experience here? My budget is around USD 500, but it can be stretched a bit if there's a perfect phone out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132609/are-apks-architecture-independent" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22065" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5898" RevisionGUID="f7c26cdc-f688-400d-96c4-6a890d3b9415" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:18:37.647" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://android.stackexchange.com/ with https://android.stackexchange.com/" Text="#$36 - Android with USB OTG support and OTG Player App&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get the [iNOVA EX756 Android Tablet for $36](https://smile.amazon.com/iNOVA-EX756-Cortex-A9-MicroSD-800x480/dp/B00U2O3Y02) with the [USB Video Player - OTG Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.usbplayer.videoplayerhd&amp;hl=en) app. Or some other Android tablet or phone with USB OTG support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a USB OTG cable, so you can plug in your flash drive (probably doesn't provide enough power to spin up a hard drive, though).&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot only goes up to 32 GB, but you said &quot;or USB&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - USB Video Player - OTG Player will play files directly from the USB device, without copying them to your tablet.  This means you shouldn't be limited by what size filesystems the tablet can access, just what the app can access, since the app [accesses the USB device in raw form](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/43800).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This How-To Geek article](http://www.howtogeek.com/129800/how-to-use-usb-drives-with-the-nexus-7-and-other-android-devices/) has some more tips on accessing a USB device from Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="c5e3a436-4ed4-4420-a05d-c64d6413ed2d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.650" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://diy.stackexchange.com/ with https://diy.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for a device to create a &quot;personal zone&quot; to prevent other from hearing what I say. E.g., if I seat in an open space office and give a phone call, I don't want other people to hear me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Muzo](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/muzo-personal-zone-creator-w-noise-blocking-tech-sound-sleep#/), which has a &quot;Secret mode to protect speech privacy by Sound Masking&quot;, but the product isn't available yet (expected release date: spring 2017) and [some people](https://www.reddit.com/r/shittykickstarters/comments/4p67v0/muzo_your_personal_zone_creator_wtf_is_this_even/) weren't so optimistic about it on reddit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [stenomasks](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/479/40), but there are quite uncomfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this Stack Exchange website focuses on electronic devices, if you have some ideas that doesn't involve electronic devices, you're welcome to share them on this question posted on Home Improvement: [Isolating a workstation located in an open space office](https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/99326/6573).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22068" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="158" RevisionGUID="4aacc91f-4e9f-4c52-9e65-7b52ced28ee7" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="Sure it would. Since you're running multiple processes and your main goal is to multitask better, it would really improve performance and smoothness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For what you're currently using, 12 GB should suffice but it seems you're limiting yourself because of your 8 GB of ram so go ahead and get 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also if you're using Linux it would be better to [set your `swapness`](https://askubuntu.com/a/103916/325685) down to *zero*. If you're using Windows you can have a look on [how to control your ram and swap usage](https://superuser.com/q/237137/463961). That way you can benefit more from your ram." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1575" RevisionGUID="68dd334b-0820-4f73-8875-f378702052f8" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="As Paul Taylor already mentioned, **Lenovo X220** was chosen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the OP's requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Dislay: 12.5&quot; (1366x768, LED backlight, wideview, **anti-glare**, anti-**reflective**)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Weight: 3.5 pounds with 6-cell battery (~1.6 kg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ X220 will handle popular Linux distros with ease ([Source 1][1], [Source 2][2]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☒ Most often X220 has Windows on the board but it can be also (in specific cases) available without an operating system ([related link][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ Powerful enough to learn programming and play simple games&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ SSD is available in some builds (up to 160 GB - [datasheet][4]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;☑ It's in your budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the people don't really like the gritty touchpad but you can replace it on your own for ~$13.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [topic][5] may be useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I have found a very perfect solution for the ones that do not like the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; touchpads on newer Thinkpads. On my Thinkpad T400s i just peeled of&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the old surface, which is just a sticker, cleaned of the glue by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; rubbbing it off with my finger, and then put on a new smooth&#xD;&#xA;&gt; touchpadsurface from the company skinstyler&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I recently replaced the worn gritty touchpad on my Lenovo T420S.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; For those wondering around this I have attached a pic.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; http://1drv.ms/1pacMv8&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Process was easy, and removing the existing skin remarkably easy. My&#xD;&#xA;&gt; pad was pre-cut according to T420S size. I would recommend doing it -&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the old worn pads do look tacky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Protection skin mentioned in the topic is available [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Related video][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/2te1m8/best_linux_distro_for_x220/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://senk9.wordpress.com/2014/02/21/lenovox220/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/43494/where-can-i-buy-a-lenovo-x220-with-ubuntu-preinstalled&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://shop.lenovo.com/ISS_Static/ww/wci/us/ww/pdf/x220_datasheet.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&amp;t=98352&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.skinstyler.com/pc/black-for-pc-touchpad-protector-skin-p-281.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOUyhqnaGcU&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/0TP4Q.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22070" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2658" RevisionGUID="b130254e-16b8-404b-9d7d-d0b19697de83" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="If this requirements which you listed are all what you need I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[MSI H110M Pro-VD][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [$56 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA; - support for i7 processors (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® H110 Chipset &#xD;&#xA; - M-ATX form factor&#xD;&#xA; - up to 32 GB RAM support (2 slots, dual channel)&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.1 support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you won't overclock it is all what you need and there is no need to spend more money for better chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are sometimes problems with compatibility for Ubuntu with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel GPU on Skylake CPU's - [solution][3]&#xD;&#xA; - Sound: Realtek® ALC887 (exactly with 5.1 and 7.1 support) - [solution][4]&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet: Realtek RTL8111H Gigabit LAN - [solution][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://askubuntu.com/q/691216&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2273289&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1661489" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22071" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="5f3abd2c-89a8-423e-883f-2dd3b1913a2b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="I am looking for an internal PCIe WWAN (UMTS or LTE) card that will work flawlessly with Linux (specifically Ubuntu, currently on 16.04) on a HP EliteBook 6930p. My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A internal device that I don't have to plug in before I can use it.&#xD;&#xA;2. All software (drivers etc.) available as packages from the standard repos&#xD;&#xA;3. Reliability, no major stability issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used a Huawei USB stick as well as an Option ExpressPort adapter, both of which were plug-and-play and worked reliably – were it not for the fact that they are additional external devices to carry around, violating #1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have also tried two PCIe cards: one is the stock HP un2300 (GOBI 2000), which will not be recognized without [providing a firmware blob][2] (which needs to be extracted from the Windows driver package and placed somewhere in the filesystem) – which is a major hack operation and thus violates #2 (and still doesn't work after the operation, thus also violating #3). The other is an Ericsson F5521gw (tried in a different laptop), which is recognized instantly and requires no more than entering basic network parameters to connect – but will at some point go into sleep mode and never wake up again, thus violating #3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubuntu has a list at https://wiki.ubuntu.com/NetworkManager/Hardware/3G, but it appears somewhat unclear as to what works out of the box and what requires hacking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PC Engines has a short list of PCIe 3G modems supported by their hardware, which (among others) runs various flavors of Linux, but no information on support level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pfSense has a [list][1] of 3G/4G modems known to work. As pfSense is BSD-based, the list may be of limited relevance to Linux – though devices on the list are likely to have a free driver for a non-Windows OS, which in turn makes it likely that a Linux driver is also available for these devices (or will be at some point). On the other hand, the HP un2300 is also on the list, despite the requirement to download a firmware blob, just like its successor, the un2400 (GOBI 2000).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Does anyone know of PCIe UMTS adapters known to work with Ubuntu or Debian, or have any other way of figuring out whether I can expect a given device to work with Ubuntu (other than by trying it out)?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/Known_Working_3G-4G_Modems&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/456923/umts-hsdpa-data-sim-card-on-ubuntu-14-04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="d25cb1dc-302d-49b4-91b3-38a5b26c5e25" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22073" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5852" RevisionGUID="b1c084d3-8e45-4751-aaec-c6c1aa72eb4e" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="Do you need any graphics acceleration? You could use multiple USB to VGA adapters if you are only using non graphics intensive apps. It is a cheap and easy solution. [This guy on Ask Ubuntu][1] reported that the [UltraVideo® USB 2.0 to DVI-I or VGA Video Adapter][2] works fine on Ubuntu 14.04, although it is slow with the effects. You can try one before committing to buy multiple, since YMMV with those adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/251500/usb-display-adapter-with-linux-ubuntu-drivers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.accellcables.com/products/ultravideo-usb-2-0-to-dvi-i-or-vga-video-adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22074" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6586" RevisionGUID="4d5e0d78-1cb7-4865-9018-9f6631d81e10" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:23:04.473" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://askubuntu.com/ with https://askubuntu.com/" Text="By &quot;work&quot;, I mean recognizing clicks, taps, multi-finger clicks, multi-finger taps, simultaneous horizontal and vertical scroll using 2 fingers, pinch to unzoom and vice versa.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By multi-finger, I think 3 fingers recognition is enough. 4 is a bonus :) Example: 3 fingers tap to work as the middle click to fast close browser tabs or opening links in a new tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By external, I mean not built-in laptop touchpads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, know such a touchpad working on Ubuntu?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; \* I tried posting the [same question][1] on askubuntu.com but was put on hold and someone recommended posting the question on Hardware Recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I found so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Logitch Touchpad T650][2] supports [some gesture but not all][3]. [Requires a firmware update that can be done only on Windows][4] :(&#xD;&#xA; 1. Apple Magic Trackpd 1 - Found a [5 years old answer][5] and one [open question of late][6].&#xD;&#xA; 1. Apple Magic Trackpd 2 - couldn't find info on Ubuntu/Linux support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://askubuntu.com/q/867347/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/touchpad-t650&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://askubuntu.com/a/324338/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://askubuntu.com/a/423037/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://askubuntu.com/a/45269/13330&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://askubuntu.com/q/807940/13330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22078" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="568" RevisionGUID="43e17b2c-c7a3-4c47-92d6-a7f7ec415bb9" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:33:09.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://electronics.stackexchange.com/ with https://electronics.stackexchange.com/" Text="A [Nikon Coolshot 20 6x20 Laser Rangefinder](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1123539-REG/nikon_16200_coolshot_20.html) is weatherproof, easily to aim, and works up to 500 meter, for 166.95 USD. Using one of those at each end should allow for communication up to 1 km, provided you can modify them: [electronics.stackexchange.com](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/) should be able to help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper still is [Ronja (Reasonable Optical Near Joint Access)](http://hackaday.com/2005/06/13/ronja-optical-data-link/), at 60 USD + 70 man hours for a 10Mbps optical communication link at distances of up to 1.4km. [Lasers](http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Transceiver/) instead of LEDs might double that range to [3.0 km](http://ronja.twibright.com/slides/ronja_wsfii.pdf), [or more if licensed or reckless](http://www.lasersafetyfacts.com/resources/Laser-hazard-distance-chart.pdf).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best and cheapest option would be [WokFi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WokFi):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi antennas are fabricated out of commonly available concave metal&#xD;&#xA;&gt; kitchen dishes or dish covers (which need not be perfectly parabolic);&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Asian woks are favored because they have shapes closest to parabolic.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A commercial Wi-Fi antenna, usually a USB Wi-Fi dongle, is suspended&#xD;&#xA;&gt; in front of the dish, attached by cable to the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![Medium WokFi setup][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; WokFi gains are typically 10+ dB, with range boosts, thus can be&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 16-32 times over a bare USB adapter. **Ranges (LoS) are typically 3–5&#xD;&#xA;&gt; km**, although an aligned pair of similar point-to-point transceiver&#xD;&#xA;&gt; setups may approach 10 km over a clear path. In addition, certain&#xD;&#xA;&gt; improved WokFi antennas, and antennas made using surplus 2-foot to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3-foot diameter round or oval satellite TV dishes, allow even far&#xD;&#xA;&gt; greater range, up to 20 km.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Jb61h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="09a237ab-d18f-4383-978c-adf6dcc6a1ec" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:33:09.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://electronics.stackexchange.com/ with https://electronics.stackexchange.com/" Text="A lot of Chinese tablets (and probably some others as well) use a [barrel connector](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector) instead of microUSB to charge. They all [seem to use](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector#Listing_of_DC_coaxial_connectors) the standard size of 2.5 mm OD (outside diameter) and 0.8 mm ID (inside diameter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just bought a used Chinese tablet (a [Pipo P1](http://www.dx.com/p/337585) to be exact) whose previous owner says the battery no longer charges when plugged in. After reading [this](http://www.righto.com/2014/05/a-look-inside-ipad-chargers-pricey.html) and [this](http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html), and finding out how much noise is output by cheap Chinese chargers, I’m looking to buy a charger with some actual quality behind it so I don’t destroy the tablet even more (I’m somewhat confident the issue of the battery not charging anymore was caused by the power adapter it came with… in fact, I already experienced something similar myself when I used a cheap Chinese power adapter to charge a laptop for a few months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures of the port on the tablet as well as the power adapter it came with showing its specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A cropped image showing the label on the power adapter that came with the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![Power Supply’s Label](http://f.cl.ly/items/3o1D1U2q293Y1x3Z3f2y/power%20supply%20label.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The contents of the label transcribed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;型号：KZ0902500C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输入：100－240V〜50／60Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;　　　0.5AMAX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输出：9V ⎓ 2500mA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*where 型号 = Model, 输入 = Input, and 输出 = Output*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(The character between '9V' and '2500mA' is [U+2393 DIRECT CURRENT SYMBOL FORM TWO](http://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2393/index.htm). If you can’t see it, it means you don’t have a font installed containing a glyph for that codepoint. If that’s the case, I recommend installing a font like [Everson Mono](http://www.evertype.com/emono/), [STIXGeneral](http://stixfonts.org), or [Symbola](http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/), which does contain a glyph for it).*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An image showing the DC 9V port on the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![DC 9V Port on Tablet](http://f.cl.ly/items/3S3H032k1A1X3Y3L1n3B/DC%209V%20port.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And [here’s](http://f.cl.ly/items/2W2P2n3L0W2i1w3H0D1w/pipo%20p1%20power%20supply.png) an image showing the entire power adapter (might not want to click on that link though… it’s an uncropped 20 MB picture of the power adapter that came with the tablet that I only bothered uploading since you can also see the barrel connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I thought I could just use one of the genuine Apple 12 W USB Power Adapters that I already own, by buying a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like [this](http://www.dx.com/p/217276) one. But then I realized there might be a few issues with going that route. The first issue would be that I would have no idea what [AWG](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/39066/usb-cables-why-are-some-of-them-bad-for-raspberry-pi) the cable would be (buyers of that product have said that the cable they received didn’t have the same AWG as the one shown in the picture). In addition to that, the specs of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter I have will pose a problem with using it to charge the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Input: 100-240 V〜 0.5 A  50-60 Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Output: 5.2 V ⎓ 2.4 A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the output voltage of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter is only 5.2 V, while the voltage the tablet requires is 9 V. From what I’ve read, supplying an incorrect voltage is [a *very* bad idea](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings). The current supplied by the Apple adapter is also less than the current supplied by the adapter that came with the tablet (2.4 A vs. 2.5 A). Of course, the tablet might not actually draw an entire 2.5 A, but since I don’t know how much it draws for sure, it’s probably better to be safe than sorry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can buy a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like the one I linked to (despite not specifying the AWG of the cable, it seems like others have gotten it to charge their tablets fine, so it may be good enough), which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a USB power adapter that supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy a power adapter that already has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end, which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a power adapter that has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end of the cord and supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #1, I’ve searched around quite a bit, but the closest I could find were these USB power adapters from Anker: the [A2130111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2130111), [A2010111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2010111), and [A2132121](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2132121), but they only provide an output voltage of 9 V with an output current of 2 A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #2, I’ve searched extensively on that front as well, but have still come up short. Places like [Farnell](http://www.farnell.com/) and [Digi-Key](http://www.digikey.com/) don’t seem to have anything matching those requirements. The best I was able to find was [S-9V0-2A5-U30](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/detail.php?ID=365) from Condor Electronics. It seems perfect; they even let you configure the type of [barrel connector](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/table.php?subcat=30) for them to put on it! That’s where the issue lies though, as the closest thing they have to one with an OD of 2.5 mm and an ID of 0.8 mm are their two EIAJ-1 barrel connectors ([one](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725.pdf) with OD of 2.35 and ID of 0.7 and the [other](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725-HP.pdf) with OD of 2.45±0.05 and ID of 0.7), which might be good enough size-wise, except that the rated voltage and current of an EIAJ-01 connector is [too low](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector) (0–3.15 V and 2 A). Of course, that’s also ignoring that the only reason Condor Electronics even lets you customize the barrel connector on the adapter at all is because you have to buy 100 pcs. at a time…" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="2cd13365-5d4b-4c5e-a15c-d4eb8e4e708d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:33:09.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://electronics.stackexchange.com/ with https://electronics.stackexchange.com/" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22082" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5616" RevisionGUID="ad213ebe-b711-4b96-b4bd-299558c1aa80" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:37:20.583" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://unix.stackexchange.com/ with https://unix.stackexchange.com/" Text="Well, I'll tell you how *I'd* solve this problem. Not sure you're going to like it, but it does *technically* do everything you ask, so long as you have the right setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*What follows is *mostly* a software-based solution, with just a little necessary hardware. If that's off-topic for this site, I understand.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You **buy a Raspberry Pi** and install it on your LAN.&#xD;&#xA;2. On the Pi, you install some version of linux and configure it to support [tunneling RDP over an SSH connection][1] to another port in your network (this port will be open on your target machine). You also configure your network to support [WOL][2] from the Pi. If you like, you also configure it to serve as a [PXE Boot Server][3], though you'll probably want to add a USB external drive to the Pi for that. If your target machine doesn't support PXE boot, you'll need to install a [NIC that does][4].&#xD;&#xA;3. On your target machine, you install [GRUB][5].&#xD;&#xA;4. On your target machine, you install whatever OSes you want, but it should have at least one on it.&#xD;&#xA;5. You boot into whatever OS is first in the boot list of GRUB.&#xD;&#xA;6. You reboot to the preinstalled OS of your choice using [grub-reboot][6]. This can probably be done from [at least Windows 10][7], but should also be possible through more [arcane means][8] on older Windows OSes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some further tweaks: You can [use PXE boot to boot to GRUB][9], which means you can keep the GRUB configuration on your remote access computer (the raspberry pi), modify its boot order there, and then push that via PXE boot to the target machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WOL comes in handy in situations where the target machine is turned off. So long as it has been properly configured in the BIOS, you can turn it on from the remote machine. From there, either preinstalled OSes or your PXE boot configuration can take over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://serverfault.com/questions/200249/how-to-tunnel-windows-remote-desktop-through-ssh-using-a-linux-box&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.howtogeek.com/57601/what-is-network-booting-pxe-and-how-can-you-use-it/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833389009&amp;cm_re=supports_PXE_boot-_-33-389-009-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gnu.org/software/grub/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/661512/how-to-remotely-control-which-os-grub-boots&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.zdnet.com/article/ubuntu-and-bash-arrive-on-windows-10/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/11423/how-do-i-change-the-grub-boot-configuration-from-within-windows&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://superuser.com/questions/183401/remote-control-via-ethernet-a-computer-from-boot-for-grub-choices-on-linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22083" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="161339dc-fb45-4b7d-9289-8bf0aa4a645a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.167" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://physics.stackexchange.com/ with https://physics.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for a scale to use for a project.  I have scoured and found some options that are mostly for weighing humans and small items as well as some fully integrated systems for inventory management (Which are too expensive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The items that I need to weigh are approximately 4 feet long.  We need to be able to measure up to 40 lbs. at a minimum.  Accuracy is not that important, being off by up to 1 lb will not affect this particular project&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plan is to integrate these scales into a shelving systems and have them monitor the weight of the product in each location.  We will need to take the measurements from the scale and pass that back into our internal application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would consider using load sensors and effectively building our own platform but first want to reach out and see if anyone has seen such an animal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The secondary option would be to use multiple scales at each end of the shelve using the method show [Here](https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/24778/how-do-you-weigh-a-box-on-a-scale-whose-limit-is-too-low). Who knew I would every use the Physics SE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly if a long scale is not an option and we have to move to the method show on Physics SE then we would like the scales to be as small as possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="94df4195-8d54-4c7a-91de-309c82b33383" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:45:32.137" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://apple.stackexchange.com/ with https://apple.stackexchange.com/" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping. Working with a good [Pilates][5] trainer helped me immensely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][6]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][8] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][9] (one for PC, [one for Mac][10]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][11]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;## DIY Dream&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. Built on top of the open [Aduino][12] platform. It can be *completely* re-programmed by you or third-parties. No restrictive license. You can even program control of each key’s individual LED light. &#xA;&#xA;For the convenience of non-programmers, a simple utility app arbitrarily re-assign keys any way you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [5]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilates&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xA;  [10]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xA;  [11]: http://shop.keyboard.io&#xA;  [12]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5660" RevisionGUID="ca74ea90-5fb9-4990-87bc-c29035d43db6" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:45:32.137" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://apple.stackexchange.com/ with https://apple.stackexchange.com/" Text="As discussed in this [question][1], a [US to Europe Plug Converter Travel Charger Adapter for Apple iBook/MacBook][2] could be used. However, this particular entry in Amazon would cost ~14$ and I am located in San Francisco for September. I tried to ship it to Greece, but Amazon wouldn't accept that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the questions is if there is this particular hardware piece somewhere in San Francisco, so I can go and pick it. Please recommend! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Sorry, if this is not the most appropriate question, but I am really desperate on finding one!&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/250751/power-for-my-us-laptop-in-europe&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VK475Y/?tag=stackoverfl08-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22090" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7028" RevisionGUID="aaf2b1a5-2ac6-49ed-8efd-f11e766762c7" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:50:06.453" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Please advise of any smartwatches that have timers that autorestart features namely where dismiss and reset are in one swipe and swipes are required or how certain smartwatch alarms can achieve such.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Context:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had previously asked about [Pomodoro][1] or [HIIT][2] timer variants that have an autoreset feature unlike timer but still asked to be dismissed. Do Android smartwatches have something like what [I Can't Wake Up][3] has?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's say it is 11:59am. I want to be reminded of the time at 12:05pm and then be reminded every 5 minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I am using my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So either I set a timer for 5 minutes when it's 12pm or I set an alarm to ring at 12:05pm. If timer: I want an option to autorestart after dismiss (so far I haven't found any). If alarm: I want an option to snooze not so easily (with I Can't Wake Up, I can make it so that I have to slide up to snooze or slide down to dismiss).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's a hassle to get my phone out every time wherein sometimes I have to first unlock the phone first snoozing the alarm (I Can't Wake Up has 'Quit Block', but I have yet to try this).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping some smartwatch has the ability to go off at 12:05pm or 5 minutes after I set the timer (which would be around 12pm) so that I just have to swipe my watch instead of taking out my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find such features for any smartwatch, but I may be using wrong keywords.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/30949/countdown-timer-or-pomodoro-for-android-that-is-automatically-restarted-but-asks/39551#39551&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/31167/hiit-timer-variant-for-android&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kog.alarmclock&amp;hl=en" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="145" RevisionGUID="09fa924b-09a4-4859-8540-cd5137d305b6" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:50:09.980" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://arduino.stackexchange.com/ with https://arduino.stackexchange.com/" Text="You need a relay, probably driven by USB. Examples: [Yocto-PowerRelay](http://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/usb-actuators/yocto-powerrelay), [Cleware USB switch](http://www.cleware-shop.de/USB-Switch-EN), [EnerGie EG-PM2](http://www.amazon.de/EnerGenie-EG-PM2-programmierbare-Steckdosenleiste-Schnittstelle/dp/B00ANXI3L2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_2/280-7383433-5316334?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0SEWTK87HHT4DSTBWG70&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) (found by a web search, I'm not endorsing these particular products or vendors).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lots of people use a Raspberry Pi or similar boards to control mains-powered appliances, so you'll find lots of discussions around this topic in their communities. You can build something cheaper if you do some of it yourself, but don't do that unless you're comfortable working with mains power — you could fry your hardware or worse, fry yourself. If you already have a RPi or Arduino in your system, you can get specialized peripherals for a bit cheaper, e.g. [SainSmart 8-Kanäle RelaisModul](http://www.amazon.de/SainSmart-8-Kan%C3%A4le-RelaisModul-Arduino-Module/dp/B005WR734M/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1H7QSZKT2SDGDGDD0XKK&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) or [PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) for Arduino (and see [this](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/235/controlling-mains-230v-supply-upto-5-10-amps-using-arudino) thread on Arduino SE), [Pi-Face Digital](http://shop.openlx.org.uk/) for RPi (and see [these](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/1633/how-can-one-control-ac-power-220v-with-a-raspberry-pi) [threads](http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/604/can-i-switch-mains-devices-on-off) on Raspberry Pi.SE), etc. There's quite a bit of material around on using the PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) with either Arduino or [Raspberry Pi](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-13-power-control).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever product you use, take care not to exceed its maximum amperage.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22093" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7216" RevisionGUID="4db7c278-0e1b-48ae-a9a7-2d4237a857f2" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:54:43.927" UserId="6018" Text="I found one mouse that features a *&quot;Lightweight Aluminum Chassis&quot;*. If the buttons are metal or some form of polymer I can't say.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But whatever the case the [cyborg R.A.T. 7][1] is way over your limit of 40$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Cyborg-R-A-T-7-Gaming-Maus/dp/B003CP0BHM/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492087558&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cyborg%20r.a.t.%207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22094" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="145" RevisionGUID="959ea90b-8422-4b40-9310-98d7ecf34d95" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:56:28.550" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/ with https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/" Text="You need a relay, probably driven by USB. Examples: [Yocto-PowerRelay](http://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/usb-actuators/yocto-powerrelay), [Cleware USB switch](http://www.cleware-shop.de/USB-Switch-EN), [EnerGie EG-PM2](http://www.amazon.de/EnerGenie-EG-PM2-programmierbare-Steckdosenleiste-Schnittstelle/dp/B00ANXI3L2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_2/280-7383433-5316334?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0SEWTK87HHT4DSTBWG70&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) (found by a web search, I'm not endorsing these particular products or vendors).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lots of people use a Raspberry Pi or similar boards to control mains-powered appliances, so you'll find lots of discussions around this topic in their communities. You can build something cheaper if you do some of it yourself, but don't do that unless you're comfortable working with mains power — you could fry your hardware or worse, fry yourself. If you already have a RPi or Arduino in your system, you can get specialized peripherals for a bit cheaper, e.g. [SainSmart 8-Kanäle RelaisModul](http://www.amazon.de/SainSmart-8-Kan%C3%A4le-RelaisModul-Arduino-Module/dp/B005WR734M/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1H7QSZKT2SDGDGDD0XKK&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) or [PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) for Arduino (and see [this](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/235/controlling-mains-230v-supply-upto-5-10-amps-using-arudino) thread on Arduino SE), [Pi-Face Digital](http://shop.openlx.org.uk/) for RPi (and see [these](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/1633/how-can-one-control-ac-power-220v-with-a-raspberry-pi) [threads](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/604/can-i-switch-mains-devices-on-off) on Raspberry Pi.SE), etc. There's quite a bit of material around on using the PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) with either Arduino or [Raspberry Pi](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-13-power-control).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever product you use, take care not to exceed its maximum amperage.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="473" RevisionGUID="cadc8fef-04fe-4f1a-98b0-8fe4c6a48b36" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:56:28.550" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/ with https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/" Text="I require a cheap and small computer to act as the monitor of a webcam-microscope. The computer must be able to display the output of the USB webcam microscope with as low a time delay as possible (&lt;50ms delay) and display the output on a monitor with a wired connection (HDMI, DVI or VGA). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer, USB microscope and monitor are intended to be placed inside a biosafety hood much like this one. It will allow the user to be able to view and manipulate small objects under the microscope without needing to lift the glass safety sash, as one will need to do when using a normal binocular microscope. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the Raspberry Pi for this purpose, but my [question on the RBP SE][2] seemed to suggest that it may not be fast enough for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1: The computer must introduce less than 50ms of delay when displaying live images from a USB webcam with a resolution of 720p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2: Under US$400 not including the monitor and microscope&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3: Have at least one form of hardware video output and have at least one USB port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4: Preferably fanless, as fans may disrupt the airflow within the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5: Preferably has integrated Wifi and Bluetooth for remote access to save data without needing to place USB drives into the biosafety cabinet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One method to quantify the webcam time delay would be to point your webcam directly at the computer monitor, and observe the nesting of images. The rate at which the images nest into each other allows the approximate time delay to be measured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7Gm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/Eyl7G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/36804/can-the-raspberry-pi-display-video-from-a-webcam-on-a-screen-with-minimal-delay" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22096" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="26f2b60e-b251-4a2b-aeb5-a5129d999a1b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:56:28.550" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/ with https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/" Text="A lot of Chinese tablets (and probably some others as well) use a [barrel connector](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector) instead of microUSB to charge. They all [seem to use](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector#Listing_of_DC_coaxial_connectors) the standard size of 2.5 mm OD (outside diameter) and 0.8 mm ID (inside diameter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just bought a used Chinese tablet (a [Pipo P1](http://www.dx.com/p/337585) to be exact) whose previous owner says the battery no longer charges when plugged in. After reading [this](http://www.righto.com/2014/05/a-look-inside-ipad-chargers-pricey.html) and [this](http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html), and finding out how much noise is output by cheap Chinese chargers, I’m looking to buy a charger with some actual quality behind it so I don’t destroy the tablet even more (I’m somewhat confident the issue of the battery not charging anymore was caused by the power adapter it came with… in fact, I already experienced something similar myself when I used a cheap Chinese power adapter to charge a laptop for a few months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures of the port on the tablet as well as the power adapter it came with showing its specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A cropped image showing the label on the power adapter that came with the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![Power Supply’s Label](http://f.cl.ly/items/3o1D1U2q293Y1x3Z3f2y/power%20supply%20label.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The contents of the label transcribed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;型号：KZ0902500C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输入：100－240V〜50／60Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;　　　0.5AMAX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输出：9V ⎓ 2500mA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*where 型号 = Model, 输入 = Input, and 输出 = Output*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(The character between '9V' and '2500mA' is [U+2393 DIRECT CURRENT SYMBOL FORM TWO](http://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2393/index.htm). If you can’t see it, it means you don’t have a font installed containing a glyph for that codepoint. If that’s the case, I recommend installing a font like [Everson Mono](http://www.evertype.com/emono/), [STIXGeneral](http://stixfonts.org), or [Symbola](http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/), which does contain a glyph for it).*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An image showing the DC 9V port on the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;![DC 9V Port on Tablet](http://f.cl.ly/items/3S3H032k1A1X3Y3L1n3B/DC%209V%20port.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And [here’s](http://f.cl.ly/items/2W2P2n3L0W2i1w3H0D1w/pipo%20p1%20power%20supply.png) an image showing the entire power adapter (might not want to click on that link though… it’s an uncropped 20 MB picture of the power adapter that came with the tablet that I only bothered uploading since you can also see the barrel connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I thought I could just use one of the genuine Apple 12 W USB Power Adapters that I already own, by buying a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like [this](http://www.dx.com/p/217276) one. But then I realized there might be a few issues with going that route. The first issue would be that I would have no idea what [AWG](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/39066/usb-cables-why-are-some-of-them-bad-for-raspberry-pi) the cable would be (buyers of that product have said that the cable they received didn’t have the same AWG as the one shown in the picture). In addition to that, the specs of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter I have will pose a problem with using it to charge the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Input: 100-240 V〜 0.5 A  50-60 Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Output: 5.2 V ⎓ 2.4 A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the output voltage of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter is only 5.2 V, while the voltage the tablet requires is 9 V. From what I’ve read, supplying an incorrect voltage is [a *very* bad idea](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings). The current supplied by the Apple adapter is also less than the current supplied by the adapter that came with the tablet (2.4 A vs. 2.5 A). Of course, the tablet might not actually draw an entire 2.5 A, but since I don’t know how much it draws for sure, it’s probably better to be safe than sorry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can buy a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like the one I linked to (despite not specifying the AWG of the cable, it seems like others have gotten it to charge their tablets fine, so it may be good enough), which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a USB power adapter that supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy a power adapter that already has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end, which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a power adapter that has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end of the cord and supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #1, I’ve searched around quite a bit, but the closest I could find were these USB power adapters from Anker: the [A2130111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2130111), [A2010111](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2010111), and [A2132121](http://www.ianker.com/product/A2132121), but they only provide an output voltage of 9 V with an output current of 2 A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #2, I’ve searched extensively on that front as well, but have still come up short. Places like [Farnell](http://www.farnell.com/) and [Digi-Key](http://www.digikey.com/) don’t seem to have anything matching those requirements. The best I was able to find was [S-9V0-2A5-U30](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/detail.php?ID=365) from Condor Electronics. It seems perfect; they even let you configure the type of [barrel connector](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/table.php?subcat=30) for them to put on it! That’s where the issue lies though, as the closest thing they have to one with an OD of 2.5 mm and an ID of 0.8 mm are their two EIAJ-1 barrel connectors ([one](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725.pdf) with OD of 2.35 and ID of 0.7 and the [other](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725-HP.pdf) with OD of 2.45±0.05 and ID of 0.7), which might be good enough size-wise, except that the rated voltage and current of an EIAJ-01 connector is [too low](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector) (0–3.15 V and 2 A). Of course, that’s also ignoring that the only reason Condor Electronics even lets you customize the barrel connector on the adapter at all is because you have to buy 100 pcs. at a time…" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22098" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="743" RevisionGUID="f9857f3b-8bac-4883-86d8-0815b9cb18ee" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:57:11.357" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/ with https://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/" Text="In the meantime, someone answered me at [Network Engineering SE](https://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/23402/how-do-hardware-timestamps-hardstamps-work)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like the Intel 82580 network controller supports this. It is e.g. contained in the Intel I340 server adapter family." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6722" RevisionGUID="345ff9bb-805f-43f5-8852-4513fe67e334" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:57:47.587" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://blender.stackexchange.com/ with https://blender.stackexchange.com/" Text="I think that the Alienware with the GTX 1070 is going to work better for your application. When considering the GPU options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 vs Quadro M1200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1070 has 1920 CUDA cores vs. [640 CUDA cores from the Quadro M1200][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070 is rated for 6.5 TFLOPS vs. 1.4 TFLOPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of benchmarks (these are the desktop versions, I can't find benchmarks for the m1200)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Passmark:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1070: 10,973&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quadro K1200: 2992&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion, if you are looking for GPU power, the laptop with the GTX 1070 (Alienware) is going to be the better option, if you need professional driver support, then take the Quadro (Precision Workstation). I know there is driver [support for CUDA][2] 8.0 cards (in blender) so that isn't an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/5nt3ns/quadro_m1200/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/60308/cycles-support-for-gtx-1070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1718" RevisionGUID="25bc7428-12f1-4164-bbda-d31c04771b7c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T12:59:02.003" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://sound.stackexchange.com/ with https://sound.stackexchange.com/" Text="# Bluetooth compared to 3.5mm CTIA TRRS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically if A2DP is [transparent][1] for you why would you replace it with a standard cable or even a proprietary one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another question named [3.5mm Analog Audio vs. Bluetooth Audio Quality][2] has been perfectly answered on SuperUser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Lightning cables as a DAC/Amp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm not an Apple customer, I believe that Apple *could* bring a change to the market, however till now it looks as constructed as the rumors about an Apple smart TV and not like solution that Apple (or some other company with another connector) intends to promote actively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The headphones mentioned are the Philips Fidelio M2L (based on the inexpensive Fidelio M1 series) and the *AMP/DAC/DSP Apple Lightning cable*¹ for the Audeze EL-8 which has been offered with the closed back version in a *titanium*-colored variant for a few weeks.  The M2L looks like it has **no replaceable cable**, here is a comparison with the M1BTBL:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Integrating the DAC into the M2L cable (or similar products) and putting a 3.5mm plug on the other end would be possible and great for compatibility² but increase the price of DAC replacement cables (you probably get a new Fidelio M1 for the price) and generate questions from customers who have unfounded doubts about the 3.5mm plug.³  Proprietary connectors on the headphones themselves are accepted for products in higher price ranges and ensure compatibility with a variety of jacks on different devices, but mainstream product designs seem to be increasingly **optimized for incompatibility and obsolescence**.⁴&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products that rely on only one connector type that isn't 3.5mm TRS/[TRRS][4] appear to be very short lived to me. You may find adapters, but that wouldn't be very practical.  The 3.5mm jacks and plugs are very durable and have been around for a long time, Microsoft even moved from 2.5mm to standard 3.5mm TRRS with their Xbox One and Sony has them on their PS4 too.  The missing headphone jack on the [HTC Dream][5] was probably the biggest anti-feature.  I'd rather recommend Bluetooth headphones with an optional 3.5mm analog jack, this way you get an integrated DAC and flexibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's more to consider: **Your next primary or personal communication device may not even have a Lightning-port or USB-port at all and connects completely wireless.**  If the size of the 3.5mm plug actually becomes an issue for designing new ground breaking products then *no* physical connector would be the answer and we're almost there with smartwatches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Conclusion and recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you encounter this or a similar topic check *who* promotes *what*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone reviewing *consumer* hardware with **a favor for a different connector for audio is not [objective][6]**.  It's also inconsistent and appears to be overexcited when there was nothing to complain about 3.5mm plugs or Bluetooth with aptX in the ecosystem (Apple) before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may find that the Lightning or whatever version doesn't sound significantly better than the Bluetooth version or better at all. Save the money for a product in the next tier or for something completely different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't matter if you prefer bass, mids or highs. If you prefer not carrying an additional device with you, that's fine too but has limitations.⁵  In any case get the most objective or reasonable playback device or sound source and the headphones with sound signatures you prefer for your music, then do your ABX listening tests. You will be confident with the decision you made and that should matter the most to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Now called [Cipher][7].  I feel a little betrayed here, I shouldn't have searched for material on the web when writing this to find a fresh uploaded promotional video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I carry both the M1BTBL and M-100 around with only one cable and I get the most out of that setup. (Even more with an aptX dongle and a mobile DAC/Amp.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Analog connectors with better electrical characteristics have been available for a long time and implemented in professional equipment, but there is no need for these in the consumer market.  Also related: [Is there sound quality loss in 6mm to 3.5mm TRS adapter?][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. A coworker has the standard M1 and left them for a short while in the car during summer, the glued cushion seams on this model ripped and cannot be replaced.  Another thing is that Bluetooth headphones typically don't feature mechanisms to replace the battery, though a replaceable cover with a battery to twist or screw off doesn't seem to be impossible to implement in most designs and is still stylish for a fashion item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. The EL-8 cable looks like a good idea to give you the optimal mobile experience on an iDevice, but they are still a heavy pair of cans for a walk around the city and if you have the habit to bang your head with the music or just sway to music while sitting down at home you're not getting the optimal performance when they bounce on your head creating pressure variations that interfere with the very sensitive diaphragms doing their work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Transparency_%28data_compression%29&amp;oldid=692837933&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/q/464388/252532&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8SY7J.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phone_connector_%28audio%29&amp;oldid=696979593#TRRS_standards&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=HTC_Dream&amp;oldid=697529763&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://nwavguy.blogspot.de/2011/05/subjective-vs-objective-debate.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_52Tw02RD88&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://sound.stackexchange.com/q/31734/8112" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22102" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="27" RevisionGUID="1bf40a39-882c-401c-a5e1-75f6b77b8706" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:32.253" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://opensource.stackexchange.com/ with https://opensource.stackexchange.com/" Text="I want a smartphone.  At this point I don’t care about hardware specifications, features, design, price etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only requirement is that the smartphone ships without proprietary software.  &#xD;&#xA;But I read somewhere that there’s currently no alternative to certain proprietary firmware/drivers, so if that’s the case, it would work for me if &quot;only&quot; the operating system and everything on top of it is FLOSS (while layers below the OS may be proprietary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The pre-installed operating system as well as all pre-installed apps/modifications have to be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * The smartphone has to ship like that. Buying a smartphone with pre-installed proprietary software, deleting it, and installing a FLOSS OS is not an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * What matters is what’s pre-installed, not what could be installed by the user (so it’s fine if a pre-installed app store offers proprietary apps, as long as the user has the choice not to install them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The license has to be [approved by the FSF and/or the OSI](https://opensource.stackexchange.com/a/383/138).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It must be a sealed/unused product (so not offered by someone who buys smartphones with proprietary software, installs a FLOSS system and resells them). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optional (for bonus points!):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Everything’s FLOSS, including firmware/drivers.&#xD;&#xA;* Support installing other operating systems manually (ideally without losing warranty).&#xD;&#xA;* [Free/libre/open hardware](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-source_hardware).&#xD;&#xA;* Ethically produced: [fair trade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_trade), avoiding [conflict minerals](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conflict_resource#Conflict_minerals), …" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22103" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="301" RevisionGUID="13db1fa7-b604-4810-a87c-500e4efb51bf" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:32.253" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://opensource.stackexchange.com/ with https://opensource.stackexchange.com/" Text="I’m looking for a tablet that ships with FLOSS (Free/Libre Open Source Software) only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the [FLOSS smartphone (which I‘m also looking for)](http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30), I was willing to accept the compromise that firmware/drivers may still be proprietary; however, this is not acceptable for the tablet. *Everything* has to be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price, size, and hardware specifications don’t matter. No need for SIM card support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements (no compromises):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* all pre-installed software (e.g., firmware/drivers, operating system, apps, modifications) has to be **FLOSS** (i.e., licensed under a license [approved by the FSF and/or the OSI](https://opensource.stackexchange.com/a/383/138))&#xD;&#xA;* it has a **touchscreen**&#xD;&#xA;* it has to support **WLAN**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (would be great):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* slot for **SD card**&#xD;&#xA;* **USB** port (which allows to connect it to a PC where folders/files can be read/written, just like with a regular USB stick)&#xD;&#xA;* **Bluetooth** support&#xD;&#xA;* no void of **warranty** because of installing a different OS&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="66" RevisionGUID="32bead03-bbe0-45b2-b33b-4d40ce8f9fa0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I already offered a NAS recommendation as a [response to this question][1], and I'd maintain the same recommendation for your situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QNAP and other commercial NAS devices are just small Linux machines with custom operating systems to make configuration and management consumer friendly. By default, QNAP devices are set up as web servers. The administration and configuration can all be handled through the device's web UI. The low cost models (such as the TS-231) would be quickly be bogged down by a high traffic dynamically served website, but for something simple the performance should be suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The stipulation is that you may not get the latest and greatest server software available as an easy to install package. For example, here's what &quot;apps&quot; I can currently install listed under &quot;Developer Tools&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QNAP App Center][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note the versions for these services are behind the current stable branch. If you absolutely need the latest, you might have success installing it manually via SSH. If you desire something a little less DIY, there are also easy installation options provided for many popular CMSs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QNAP App Center][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/26/74 &quot;What options are available for cheap NAS devices that allows to put two hard drives in RAID 1?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/fnTmQ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/wjJol.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="124" RevisionGUID="4e146dc0-4965-4f6e-8975-37c17128ea5d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="It depends heavily on what you're looking for in the drive; SSDs are faster but ultimately less reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSDs work using electronic circuits and NAND (or NOR) gates to store data. Traditional HDDs use magnetic platters. This grants SSDs faster performance, since they don't have to spin up the platter and seek to the disk location requested by the OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you're looking for long-term reliability, HDDs win out. As I explain in [this answer][1], HDDs are less prone to accidental damage and data loss - if you drop it *while* it's processing, there's a risk you'll lose data, but if it's idle then the head is secure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For an Xbox (or any gaming console, for that matter), I recommend using an SSD. You don't really need long-term storage (the next console'll come out soon enough), and the SSD will provide *much* quicker save/load times, which is desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The major disadvantage of an SSD is the price, but (IMO) the quicker responses they give you makes it a worthwhile investment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9/whats-the-best-type-of-hard-drive-for-lifetime-data-storage/12#12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22106" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="253" RevisionGUID="45b00160-422a-4951-86e9-a5d6d203291b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="**[TI-89](http://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-89-titanium/features/features-summary)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I own a TI-84 (see [Undo's answer](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/251/graphing-calculator-for-ap-calculus/252#252)), but my school provides students with TI-89s (TI-89 Titanium, specifically) for math classes, which I find to be much more useful. I used it throughout my AP Calculus AB and AP Calculus BC classes, as well as for other AP sciences. It's quite handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Last for a reasonably long time (measured in weeks with ~1hr/day of medium use) on batteries, I don't want to be feeding it all the time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recharged my school-issued TI-89 once over the course of a school year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Have statistical capabilities, I'm TAing an AP Statistics class this year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The specifications page](http://education.ti.com/en/us/products/calculators/graphing-calculators/ti-89-titanium/features/bid-specifications) quotes the TI-89 as having&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Statistics plots including scatter, xy-line, box and modified box plots. Histograms and regression lines are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't used these functions myself, but I've heard that they are helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be usable on an AP exam. I don't want the test trolls to steal my calculator and leave me helpless on the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TI-89s are allowed on the exam.](http://apstudent.collegeboard.org/apcourse/ap-calculus-bc/calculator-policy)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be reasonably rugged, meaning I can throw it in my backpack without worry&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have yet to do an intentional drop test, but my classmates and I have inadvertently done many in the past. The case improves the calculator's resistance to damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be reasonably fast, meaning I'm not sitting there drumming my fingers during a test while it chews on something&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 is reasonably fast, so long as you don't throw a complicated integral at it. But even Wolfram Alpha would be hard-pressed to quickly solve something that complicated (I've tried!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Be within a budget, ideally &lt; $150. Much less would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TI-89s are expensive, but typically a bit under $150 (see [here](http://www.walmart.com/ip/Texas-Instruments-TI-89-Graphing-Calculator-Titanium/3136048), for example, at $142.48).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Have a rechargeable battery, built in or otherwise&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've never used a TI-89 with rechargeable batteries, but I don't know that they *won't* work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •Color display, but battery life comes first&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 does not have a color display." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="294" RevisionGUID="950f1d9f-ec58-4081-a8b6-129f8bb36e39" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my previous [question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/239/60), it looks like I will be getting an [Intel i7 5820K Haswell](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product). The only problem is that it doesn't come with a heat sink. In my previous builds, the stock cooler was enough to get the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I will not be overclocking the system, air cooling should be enough. The heat sink must fit the LGA 2011-v3 socket. The case that all of this goes in will be no smaller than an ATX Mid case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since there are many options, I will try to narrow it down. I don't care about the noise level, as long as it doesn't sound like a jet engine. It should be more effective at cooling than the average heat sink. I am hoping that I can purchase one for less than $50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which heat sinks are worthy of a recommendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="295" RevisionGUID="a77267c9-b853-4dc2-be2b-da1ecae3883a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm going to recommend the baby brother of Adam's [answer][1]: the [Logitech G430][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech G430][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regular price is around $75. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It fits over the entire ear (and isn't circular). I can wear it for hours at a time with no discomfort. &#xD;&#xA; - 7.1 surround sound. It works very well in both games and movies. &#xD;&#xA; - Noise canceling microphone. Team mates in games mentioned that the clarity is very good (and were appreciative when I started using this headset compared to my cheap previous one).&#xD;&#xA; - The ear cups fold flat, so you can lay it flat on a desk.&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection with on cable controls for volume adjustment and ability to mute the microphone. It is a wired headset, but the cable 7.5 feet long. This length has been fine for me. The headset actually has 3.5mm connections that plug into the USB dongle, if you wish to go that route.&#xD;&#xA;[![3.5mm to USB dongle][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I got my set at QuakeCon 2014 and have nice orange padding vs. the blue that you get at retail. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![QuakeCon 2014 G430][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/292/57&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g430-7-1-surround-sound-gaming-headset&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/VzbnY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/K2Gxi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/31UTb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="301" RevisionGUID="e8d642e8-8c7c-49ba-bbc6-94f39117f57a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I’m looking for a tablet that ships with FLOSS (Free/Libre Open Source Software) only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the [FLOSS smartphone (which I‘m also looking for)](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30), I was willing to accept the compromise that firmware/drivers may still be proprietary; however, this is not acceptable for the tablet. *Everything* has to be FLOSS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price, size, and hardware specifications don’t matter. No need for SIM card support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements (no compromises):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* all pre-installed software (e.g., firmware/drivers, operating system, apps, modifications) has to be **FLOSS** (i.e., licensed under a license [approved by the FSF and/or the OSI](https://opensource.stackexchange.com/a/383/138))&#xD;&#xA;* it has a **touchscreen**&#xD;&#xA;* it has to support **WLAN**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (would be great):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* slot for **SD card**&#xD;&#xA;* **USB** port (which allows to connect it to a PC where folders/files can be read/written, just like with a regular USB stick)&#xD;&#xA;* **Bluetooth** support&#xD;&#xA;* no void of **warranty** because of installing a different OS&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="346" RevisionGUID="87f218be-bca9-43d5-91fe-f4ba36af5821" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for home mini (or pocket) projector to connect to the laptop and mirror the screen in order to watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have less requirements than [this question][1] and my budget is lower (ideally below $300/£200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with OS X (MacBook Pro)&#xD;&#xA;- should be fairly small &amp;mdash; mini- or pocket-size&#xD;&#xA;- have a standard connection such as HDMI or [MiniDP][2]&#xD;&#xA;- available in EU/UK/US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/247/15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22111" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="360" RevisionGUID="50ed2e79-3ed1-44aa-bda6-0c692053f533" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I've recommended it [previously][1], but I think it fits here too. I recommend the [ASUS RT-AC66U][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has 4 Ethernet ports (all 1GB/s)&#xD;&#xA; - Mine covers a 2800+ sqft house from end to end, with it situated in the basement at one end. &#xD;&#xA; - It supports several different wireless security standards. Notably, it does NOT support WEP, which means you can't select that ***very*** insecure method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    [![Supported Wireless encryption][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Newegg][4] lists the dimensions as: 207 x 148.8 x 35.5 mm (WxDxH)&#xD;&#xA; - Supported by [dd-wrt][5]&#xD;&#xA; - Price is currently $150. It's up to you to decide if that's cost effective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Signal strength is one of the biggest reasons I upgraded to this router. Due to where the internet/cable box enters the house and how the cable is run, I was not able to bring it to a more central location. The opposite end of the house would not be covered under the previous router. This one covers everything. I've had no issues getting a signal anywhere since I purchased this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/180/57&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC66U/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKO7r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115&amp;Tpk=rt-ac66u&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC66U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="036e95f9-e767-498e-bf2e-90fb1b8d43e5" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: &#xD;&#xA;The first thing that interests me the most are touchscreens - is there a special type of them, i.e. industrial ones, that are appropriate for this purpose? Where to find them and which one would you recommend me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer is covered here [Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - computer][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/382/choosing-the-right-hardware-for-an-interactive-kiosk-computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="382" RevisionGUID="86aa3b47-164d-4131-b6d5-e29eb769a4e3" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="My goal is to develop an interactive kiosk with only touchscreen available to visitors for a local museum. I must admit that I'm a freshman in this part of hardware world, but I really like the sound of this challenge, so I need to get some info/advice first about kiosk's components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding to the software part, I'm going to use an Arch Linux OS and develop my own kiosk software for the most minimalistic framework possible. I opt for making an app based on WebGL (because I believe this is my forte), so WebGL Hardware Acceleration must be supported by GPU. In case WebGL would be too heavy, my emergency plan is to build a good HTML site or a standalone Java app (which could be the hardest way, but more efficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now about the hardware: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen is covered here [Choosing the right hardware for an interactive kiosk - screen][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, what about the computer? I thought about something like Hummingbird i2 or Cubox-i4Pro so it would support at least OpenGL 2.0, Wi-Fi adapter, keyboard and all those things and which would be ready to install the OS on it. Also it needs to be compatible with the chosen touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/363/choosing-the-right-hardware-for-an-interactive-kiosk-screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="387" RevisionGUID="c66701e4-2f80-4d2b-937d-e6c97fb8aee0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Are there any nice and affordable, wearable fitness-tracking devices, which can track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Edited after [Mark][1]'s [comment][2] below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost:** Would be nice if it's within $250&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weight:** As it's a wearable, the lighter the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery Life:** A decent battery life is okay, as I would be wearing it in my home most of the time, so I can charge it whenever it gets down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Software Compatibility:** If it comes with an app which can show my progress, etc. on my android phone, there's nothing like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I'd be using it during exercise, something which is durable would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/241/mark&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/387/what-are-some-nice-fitness-event-activity-tracking-devices#comment-764" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="398" RevisionGUID="e5a73536-1869-4d24-9953-5c369875a492" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I have two [i7-4790 (3.6GHz) Intel processors][1]. One is in a machine I use only for gaming and the other is in my development machine. Using the [link][2] that ArtOfCode [provided][3], this processor currently (September 2015) sits in 6th for Single Thread Performance (behind the 4GHz version of the same processor and some Xeon chips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg lists the price as $310.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This processor has had no problems in new games (Arkham Knight...I was one of the lucky ones that had no issues), older games (Skyrim/Team Fortress 2) or family friendly games (any Lego game). On my development machine it performs like a champ as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend this one (or the 4GHz one for $40 more). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116987&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/391/which-modern-cpu-for-best-single-threaded-performance#comment803_391" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22116" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="434" RevisionGUID="0dff3429-1335-4f2a-8afd-be6077dbc88a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="**Note/Update:** thanks to comments I now realize that I missed the 16:9 requirement - the below basically applies to a 16:10 monitor.  If that is not an issue for you (I have used both and do not really notice a difference), then read on....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When time came to replace my venerable [Iiyama E511S][1] in 2013 (after ~9 years of service) I did a lot of research - I wanted something in the 24&quot; range, widescreen, with crisp text and a decent response rate and I didn't want to get ripped off in terms of price, but wanted an IPS panel.  In the end, after reading a lot of reviews I went with the [Dell Ultrasharp U2412M][2], and the best price I found was on Amazon (not Dell direct).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time it cost me ~€300 but it can be had for around the €250 mark now.  I know that is a little above your stated price target but that's largely thanks to the crappy Euro exchange rates.  It is sub 200 pound sterling on Amazon UK at the moment and less than $250 in the states, so you may be able to source it a bit cheaper than €250.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have this right next to a [BenQ G2400W][3] as a second screen and the difference is noticeable, particularly when reading text (much crisper, less tiring on the eyes) or playing something hi-res.  For SD or DVD quality video the BenQ is fine, but 1080P or hi-res games are much, much better on the Dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been so happy with it that I even wrote a [review of my purchase][4] on Amazon, something I rarely do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One note where this misses your stated requirements: this has [DisplayPort and DVI rather than HDMI][5] - was not a concern for me (did not need sound, already had an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lcd,823-5.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;l=en&amp;cs=19&amp;sku=320-2676&amp;baynote_bnrank=0&amp;baynote_irrank=0&amp;~ck=baynoteSearch&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.trustedreviews.com/BenQ-G2400W-24in-LCD-Monitor-review&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/customer-reviews/R3EWTQQXCIQX1F/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B005LNDPPS&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/78/122" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="482" RevisionGUID="e1fe5440-29e4-4b49-a5b3-3f6ccb207300" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just about have all the parts picked out, but I need a way to power them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 24 pin ATX power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 8 pin CPU power connector&#xD;&#xA;- 80 Plus Platinum&#xD;&#xA;- Standard size&#xD;&#xA;- Can power 140W processor, 300W graphics card, 2 or 3 3.5&quot; 7200 RPM hard drives, one SSD, and ~5 fans&#xD;&#xA;- Costs less than $200 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to Haves**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fully modular&#xD;&#xA;- Dedicated fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be getting this [motherboard](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [processor](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402&amp;cm_re=LGA2011-_-19-117-402-_-Product), and [graphics card](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60) for reference. What is a good power supply that meets my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="483" RevisionGUID="8104b955-5a23-4cc4-94de-5dd946fd0d1e" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I recommend [Corsair's AX760](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139042)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has the connectors specified (24 pin ATX and 8 pin CPU)&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Platinum certification&#xD;&#xA; - Standard size&#xD;&#xA; - 760 watts (if you feel that's to close to the estimated 600W pointed out in the [comments](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/482/power-supply-for-new-college-computer#comment1020_482), you can upgrade to the 860W for $20 more)&#xD;&#xA; - Cost: $150 (on sale); $200 (full price)&#xD;&#xA; - It is fully modular&#xD;&#xA; - Not only does it have a dedicated fan...it's quiet&#xD;&#xA; - 7 year warranty&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My newest machine has this power supply. I've had no problems with it at all and been very pleased with performance. I use it to power very similar hardware to what you've already picked out (including the multiple drives and combination of HDD and SSDs). I selected it because of the good reviews I'd seen, including an [Editor's Choice award from TechPowerUp](https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/AX760/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; To sum up, the AX760 is a no brainer if you don't want many bells and whistles (aka digital control), but do want the best that money can buy in this category. You will invest a serious amount of money, that is for sure, but you will enjoy Corsair's support for seven years while your system is being fed by ultra-clean and stable DC outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qw3v4.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="561" RevisionGUID="2373f2c2-b13b-414a-9084-c9e3f8b2290b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am going to be building a computer for a college student. He is going into general engineering while he figures out exactly what he wants to do. The budget for this computer is about $1500 USD (just for the tower). This computer will be running Windows 10. He will be using this computer for school work and for gaming. All the components that I(read: we) have picked out for this computer need a place that they can call home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a computer case that fits the requirments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - no smaller than an ATX-Mid case&#xD;&#xA; - can support all picked out parts (listed and linked below)&#xD;&#xA; - easy to work with, meaning no strange support bars, opens up fairly well, and drive bays are organized.&#xD;&#xA; - have adequate air cooling capabilities for gaming and rendering&#xD;&#xA; - at least 2 front USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - at least one 5.25 drive bay in case he wants a CD drive.&#xD;&#xA; - easy to move. Anything like handles that help move a tower around.&#xD;&#xA; - bottom mounted PSU that allows the fan to be facing downward&#xD;&#xA; - at least one of those USB ports being USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The parts I have picked out are: [ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer motherboard](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/60), [Cooler Master Hyper 12 EVO heatsink](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/297/60), [EVGA GTX 980 graphics card](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/386/60), and the [Corsair AX760 power supply](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/60). I will also be getting two 3.5&quot; HDDs and one 2.5&quot; SSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="564" RevisionGUID="c468759b-8957-4e59-bf6a-264991d0857a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I recommend a Phanteks [&quot;Enthoo Pro Series&quot;][1] full ATX case, which is $100 on Newegg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Phantek - Enthoo Pro Series][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main machine rests in this case. It sits behind my desk and the fans are very quiet. As an added benefit, I know it fits the [parts][3] I've recommended in the other [answers][4] I've provided, plus a full sized video card, optical drive and multiple HDDs and SSDs. It also has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 External 5.25&quot; bays &#xD;&#xA; - 6 Internal bays for HDDs&#xD;&#xA; - 7 Internal bays for SSDs&#xD;&#xA; - Front USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports, Mic and Headphone&#xD;&#xA; - A power button on the top of the machine (instead of on the front, which is nice for it's placement in my office)&#xD;&#xA; - Dust filters over the fans (yay!) and they are easily removable&#xD;&#xA; - Has air vents on the bottom for the fan of the PSU&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It supports water cooling if you ever wish to go that route. I have not had any issues with heat in this and I only use air cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wiring, with this case, is one of the easier cases I've dealt with. Both side panels remove and there is a small gap on the &quot;back&quot; (which is 'under' the motherboard, if you lay it on the side) for you to run cables. These cables can be brought back to the front through rubber points along the outside of the motherboard (once mounted to the case). This feature keeps the number of cables that block air flow to a minimum. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Case Interior][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything in this case is opened with either a standard screw driver, thumbscrews or, in the case of the internal drive bays, a simple latch that locks the bay into place. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case is a bit heavy - 26 pounds, empty - but I move my computers so rarely that it doesn't bother me. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/vWpe4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/240/57&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/57&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/WnROU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="586" RevisionGUID="616c3ad1-ab4f-49c9-a523-9e3e0d5539ca" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Note 1: The score is based on your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: A typical workstation rarely has a gaming card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 3: A typical gaming laptop rarely has a fingerprint reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 4: Most of the newest touchpads have not separated buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 1** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad Y50-70-59441231][3] - Score: 7/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check my answer [here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 5.29 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6 inch 16:9, 3840x2160 pixel, IPS, glossy: yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4710HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = Samsung SSD PM851 512 GB MZ7TE512HMHP, 512 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = HD Graphics 4600 + GeForce [GTX 960M][5] (mid-range gaming card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell XPS 15-8949sLV][6] - Score: 6/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 4.4 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (✓) = 15.6&quot; 3200x1800 IPS Touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 32 GB (dual-channel, two memory banks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (✓) = Intel Core i7-4712HQ (quad-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (x) = Intel HD Graphics 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 (it it not typical gaming card - [check comparison with K4000M][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check: [GeForce GT 750M Gaming - Grand Theft Auto V - Dell XPS 15][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons (based on your question):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trackpoint is not available&#xD;&#xA;- fingerprint reader is not available&#xD;&#xA;- trackpad has not separated buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Proposition 3** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thinkpad T450s][1] - Score: 5/7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad has separated the trackpoint buttons into 3. That is why the buttons are a lot easier to press because you don not have to click the whole trackpad down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on [notebookcheck.net][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fortunately, there is a workaround for this problem: There are the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; easy to operate buttons of the TrackPoint above the touchpad surface,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; which can also be used with the touchpad. Once you got used to this&#xD;&#xA;&gt; solution, you can work quickly and reliably with the ThinkPad again.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As an alternative, you can also completely move to the precise&#xD;&#xA;&gt; TrackPoint and completely ignore the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Weight (✓) = 3.53 pounds (may vary because of the battery size but still less than 6 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Display (x) = 14.0 inch 16:9 (but IPS display is available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory (✓) = Up to 12GB DDR3L 1600 MHz (1 DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. CPU (x) = Intel Core i7-5600U (dual-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. OS (✓) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Storage (✓) = 240GB/256GB Solid State Drive, SATA 3 Opal 2.0 - Capable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. GPU (✓) = Intel HD Graphics 5500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pluses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fingerprint reader (✓) = (available on some models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A review can be found [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T450s-Ultrabook-Review.137248.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9G7TR5kJUg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Y50-70-GTX-960M-4K-Notebook-Review.145340.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/426/54&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjRJde3Im1I&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-15-8949sLV-15-6-Inch-Touchscreen-Laptop/dp/B00IAUJF6W&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=1246&amp;gid2=980&amp;compare=geforce-gt-750m-vs-quadro-k4000m&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0Xb63I_ZaM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22122" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="596" RevisionGUID="133009dd-537e-4be8-a19e-f66f36833edc" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I want a headset. I have similar requirements to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/291/1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a Bluetooth headset (so no cords hanging off my head) but it should connect to my computer via USB or a 3.5mm jack. My current setup does this with a base that is used for charging the headset and connecting to the computer.&#xD;&#xA; - It should be able to last several hours on a single charge&#xD;&#xA; - Should be mildly comfortable, but I can get used to anything&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about hooking it up to a landline, etc. I just need to get audio to and from my Macbook&#xD;&#xA; - Should have a decent microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Should last a relatively long time (&gt;3 years), ideally with a warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of ~$200. What should I use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="611" RevisionGUID="fd43da7b-3014-46d2-8c2e-521d10395ca9" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="[I've &quot;recentely&quot; asked this question][1] here for a docking station for laptops that uses Thunderbolt 3 or USB 3.1 for connections. While I'm still interested in such stations I need an alternative in case no such alternative will be available within a reasonable time-frame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm hereby asking for a docking station that qualifies with the following points (in order of preference):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It connects via USB 3.0 and doesn't require special additional software for Windows (10) besides maybe a driver&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 USB 3.0 ports (additionally to the connecting port)&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 4 other USB (2.0+) ports (so 8 ports in total)&#xD;&#xA; - It has a gigabit ethernet network port &#xD;&#xA; - It has a HDMI (1.4+) port for monitor output&#xD;&#xA; - It has yet another 2 USB (2.0+) ports (so 10 in total)&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be less than 200€ (in [Germany][2])&#xD;&#xA; - Fully optional: Smartcard Reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you ask yourself: &quot;For what do you *need* 8 (or more) USB ports for a laptop!?&quot; Here's the list: External USB 3.0 SSD, External 2.5&quot; USB 3.0 HDD, External 3.5&quot; USB 3.0 Backup HDD, High-Speed USB 3.0 USB-Stick, external USB 2.0 sound card, external mechanical USB keyboard, external USB mouse, external blu-ray burner (2x USB 2.0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note: all of these devices are already bought and may not be deconstructed, so a dock with HDD bay or optical drive (bay) doesn't give &quot;bonus points&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/188/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.de/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22125" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="649" RevisionGUID="d8ea6e34-6e79-42a9-9f0c-7972187be3b3" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Note: I've seen [this][1] thread but my expectations are a little bit more specific. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to ask you about headphones which may filter the noise a way better than stoppers (ear plugs):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - highly effective noise-canceling&#xD;&#xA; - comfy earpads (very important)&#xD;&#xA; - no integrated microphone&#xD;&#xA; - full-size (fully cover the ear)&#xD;&#xA; - audio quality is not that important&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper than $350&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considered as a plus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a possibility to swivel the earpads vertically and laterally &#xD;&#xA; - detachable headphone cord (being able to cancel the noise without the audio)&#xD;&#xA; - rechargeable &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/286/headphones-for-filtering-out-noise-in-an-open-space-office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="981" RevisionGUID="30ab7381-3111-42c8-9e35-b28985150039" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="For that price you won't be able to get anything too great, but there are a few options still. I'll recommend the same mic I recommended to @JonasCz [here][1] a while back: the [Tonor USB Condenser Mic][2]. For being a small, cheap mic, it has great quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensitivity: -55dB to 2dB&#xD;&#xA;- Frequency response: 50Hz to 16KHz&#xD;&#xA;- Sound-noise ratio: &gt;36dB&#xD;&#xA;- Cord length: ~2m&#xD;&#xA;- Voltage: 1.5V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Tonor USB Condenser Mic][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used this as a temporary mic and it easily gets the job done. But as @JourneymanGeek says, investing in a better mic (most people choose the SM57 as their first quality mic) and a small interface will be worth it assuming you'll be making use of this enough to warrant an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/173/155&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01142EPO4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/8vhkl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22128" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="34e2fa4d-79dd-4c0b-97b4-dca67d21faed" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.  But I'm curious what I could have done without this not-very-ideal option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires ~16 MiB of video memory, since 1920 * 1080 * 3 (bytes/pixel) * 2 (double buffer) / 1048576 ~= 12 MiB, and I'm aware of embedded platforms that will display HD with 16 MiB of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to be anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C whilst keeping 20g of aluminum very warm too implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.  My PSU is fine, I just don't like pointless waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $20 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#To clarify further&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_______________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22129" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1128" RevisionGUID="a6accdad-d815-4233-b528-12c245d58113" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for a way to upgrade my Dell Vostro 470's space for not a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Under $50&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB+ storage&#xD;&#xA;- Have the cable for the motherboard with it (if not then add a link to one with your answer)&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BONUSES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Would be great if it were a USB-external drive&#xD;&#xA;- Would be useful if had warranty (can be purchased separately, for $10 or lower)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION A**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this HDD for $27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?biw=320&amp;bih=392&amp;noj=1&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,p_ord:p,cat:380,pdtr0:10%7C1000.0%241000.0,price:1,ppr_max:60&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=1tb+hard+drive&amp;tbas=0&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CDQQvStqFQoTCOGvzIeK_cgCFULmJgodr6UC2A#spd=3682794406269387611&amp;spud=0&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However when I go on the site (sierracompenents.com or something along those lines) it says minimum amount: $200, but when I go to cart, I says 'Amout: 1' &amp; 'Price: $27' , but is this a glitch? [I'm going to contact them]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (-)  &#xD;&#xA;$27 price tag (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION B**----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;A href=&quot;https://www.sierracomponent.com/product/components-peripherals/data-storage/internal-hard-drives/hde721010sla330-hitachi-deskstar-e7k1000-32mb-hard-drive-2000019204312-used/&quot;&gt; Link  &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$35 price tag (+)  &#xD;&#xA;No Sata cable (-)  &#xD;&#xA;Used (-)  &#xD;&#xA;No warranty details (-)  &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Not external (-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION C**---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must meet the requirements at the top page, Sata cable does not need to be included with hard drive shipment but needs to be with answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------**OPTION D**----------  &#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-elements-1tb-external-usb-3-0-2-0-portable-hard-drive-black/9291106.p?id=1219011381217&amp;skuId=9291106&amp;ref=06&amp;loc=01&amp;ci_src=14110944&amp;ci_sku=9291106&amp;extensionType=pla:g&amp;s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!58460710247!g!M!87087641359&amp;kpid=9291106&amp;k_clickid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;lsft=ref:212,loc:1&amp;ksid=224ab437-b9dc-4847-8f65-510194ae4307&amp;ksprof_id=8&amp;ksaffcode=pg27&amp;ksdevice=m&quot;&gt; Link &lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1TB (+)  &#xD;&#xA;Case (+)  &#xD;&#xA;$55 price tag (--)  &#xD;&#xA;USB cable (+)   &#xD;&#xA;New (+)  &#xD;&#xA;3 year warranty (++)   &#xD;&#xA;WD brand (+)  &#xD;&#xA;external (+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:  &#xD;&#xA;From BestBuy (reliable service)  &#xD;&#xA;1 day shipping  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=============================&#xD;&#xA;Thanks to  &lt;a href=&quot;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/128/zizouz212&quot;&gt; Zizouz212 &lt;/a&gt; for suggesting the edit.  &#xD;&#xA;If you make a post, please make sure that there are many left in stock as I am going to be finalizing my shopping for Christmas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1159" RevisionGUID="f40783bd-4f50-43e7-a0b0-e51a1cadc52f" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="A brief calculation from a [power calculator][1] puts that build at needing around 600W of power (I made some assumptions about memory type and number of fans, as well as optical drives). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case, I recommend [Corsair's AX760][2], [again][3]. This is above what should be required, giving you room to expand your components at a later date. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It also is 80 Plus Platinum certified&#xD;&#xA; - It is fully modular (only use cables you need)&#xD;&#xA; - It is quiet&#xD;&#xA; - It has a 7 year warranty &#xD;&#xA; - If the 760W is to close to the 600W you will need, it has a larger 860W version available for just a bit more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It retails for $190, but is on sale on Newegg for $150 right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139042&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/483/57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="b1851a9a-2ec2-4c40-9f48-c0c344860cb7" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source (very long and ongoing thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**To Sum Up**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is either some kind of custom made (or official) adapter that can pass the e-kit to the Xbox One directly or a method of using an older RB or GH drum set as a pass-through device (with detailed instructions).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only **requirement** on top of basic Rock Band drumming functionality is to be compatible with &quot;Pro-Cymbal Mode&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Additional Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Snippet from Harmonix Product Manager, Daniel Sussman:  &#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/the-future-of-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is from the company that made Rock Band 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We know there are a bunch of other things that are important that we are actively working on (Xbox One support for ION drums, for example). Stay tuned for more info, when we have details, trust that we’ll share them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This next quote is showing what is their highest priority as of December 15, 2015. I am speculating the support for ION drums won't be available till after January.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; We hear everyone clamoring for the export entitlements of previous Rock Band games, so we’re bumping their priority to the top of the list. We’re shooting to have these up in the store for the folks who’ve exported their prior games in January. We’re starting with the original Rock Band and then following up with Rock Band 2 and Lego Rock Band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Further Update**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From Harmonix regarding to their dev plans for Rock Band 4. For the case of this question, look at the plans in the Fall with these two links and the picture below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/online-ions-and-more-a-pax-east-panel-recap/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/may-dlc-artists-double-kick-support-and-battleborn-characters-heading-to-rock-band-4/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![2016 Roadmap][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/b6GP6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22132" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1220" RevisionGUID="4f9860e6-a80d-4a3b-a2aa-da953627b877" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm interested in desktop setup that will last. I've narrowed (thanks to [this answer][1]) my motherboard choices to MSI z170 gaming pro and MSI X99 SLI plus. As both cards are quite similar (multiple SATA III, USB 3.0, more than 32GB of RAM), the choice boils down to the chipset: [LGA2011-v3][2] (in MSI X99 SLI plus) or [LGA1151][3] (in MSI z170 gaming pro).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA2011-v3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Finally, the 8 cores treshold overcomed, and processors can have ex. [32 threads][4]. &#xD;&#xA; - 40 PCIe lanes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Arguments for LGA1151:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - released in 2015 (vs 2011-v3 being released in 2014)&#xD;&#xA; - 14 nm litography&#xD;&#xA; - cheaper&#xD;&#xA; - [twice the link speed][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my understanding, in the 1151 there is still the limit to the number of cores a single processor can have, which is [not present in LGA2011][6]. &#xD;&#xA;I'm confused which one will be more supported (ex. better processors will be developped) in the future and what to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT] more specific questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Which one would choose &amp; why?**&#xD;&#xA; 2. **How important is link speed &amp; what is this measure?**  &#xD;&#xA; 3. **Will the LGA1151 overcome the 8 core treshold in next generations like 2011?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1219/951&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ark.intel.com/products/81060/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2698-v3-40M-Cache-2_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1151&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://vr-zone.com/articles/socket-2011-futures-a-difficult-road-to-perfection/13147.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1324" RevisionGUID="8eeab8b0-bc96-45c0-926e-0a24cdac66b0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Background: I am looking to upgrade our home's laptop and would like the next one to have an SSD. Due to the prices of SSDs, I don't expect to store all of our pictures and movies on the internal drive, so ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main mission:&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for network-accessible storage to be used as the primary home for our family's electronic pictures and music. I am also going to be getting an external (USB) drive to create backup copies of these files, so this NAS device does not *need* redundancy (either locally with RAID or via the Cloud). Our current combined file usage is ~245 Gb, but I would like to plan on a few years of growth. I don't need the cheapest solution, but I'm not looking to spend more than I need to (see: new laptop and external drive). Current WiFi is 802.11n but expect to move to 802.11ac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- visible on the network (it can plug in to the WiFi router to become present on the network; it does not need to provide its own WiFi) -- provides a mappable share for Windows&#xD;&#xA;- at least 500 Gb capacity (provided by the supporting hard drives, obviously)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- supports (or comes with) SSDs -- to help with power consumption and wear&#xD;&#xA;- low-power (as I envision this thing being on 24x7)&#xD;&#xA;- simple to manage (I work with computers enough already during the day)&#xD;&#xA;- reliable (who doesn't want it to be?)&#xD;&#xA;- expandable capacity (e.g. two bays, with only one populated initially) - to allow for easy online growth&#xD;&#xA;- not be a bottleneck (given that we're transferring over WiFi, I don't expect this to be an issue)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No-need-fors:&#xD;&#xA;----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- printer sharing&#xD;&#xA;- streaming&#xD;&#xA;- 3rd-party copying/backup software (I have my own solution based on rsync)&#xD;&#xA;- virtualization support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Solutions that I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RPi + FreeNAS: I'm more _capable_ than _willing_ to DIY this project; the cost savings aren't enough for me at this point. This idea wins &quot;points&quot; on being naturally lower in power consumption, though.&#xD;&#xA;- [Synology](https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Drobo](http://www.drobo.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Netgear](http://www.netgear.com/home/products/connected-storage/readynas.aspx#tab-overview)&#xD;&#xA;- [Intel NUC](http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/nuc/overview.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a related question --  https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-options-are-available-for-cheap-nas-devices-that-allows-to-put-two-hard-dri -- and have slightly different requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need encryption (storing pictures and music)&#xD;&#xA;- I don't need RAID-1 (though not opposed to the feature)&#xD;&#xA;- it doesn't need to be the cheapest option&#xD;&#xA;- I have no need for cloud-based installation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common elements to the previous question are only: reliability and energy-efficiency. JohnB's excellent answer to that question is a [QNAP TS-231](https://www.qnap.com/i/useng/product/model.php?II=155). From what I see, it would meet my main requirements, but I'm curious if there are any other good solutions for my set of requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22134" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1434" RevisionGUID="ba74a7a0-ba6f-4207-a9f4-e1b772527bd0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="In [this question][1] I received the response to which graphics model should I go with. Now, as I started calculating using [this decibel calculator][2], the fact that I am trying to buy quiet 8.9 dB fans (total = 20.9 dB) will be negligable if a graphics card will generate 36 dB (which is what I found [here][3]) - than the total noise will be 37.081 dB.&#xD;&#xA;However, on [Tomshardware][4] I found this to be more nuanced, but also incomplete (no MSI card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What graphics card manufacturer would you recommend for GTX960 noise-wise, provided the price differences are negligible? Or maybe there are other considerations under 250$ for gaming setup (i5-6500, 8GB ram, 240GB SDD, 4 140mm fans, MSI170 pro gaming mobo, 1280 x 1024 res) that are significantly quieter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EDIT]**&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of 'silent mode', where fans turn off on idle, which is apparently implemented by all manufacturers in GTX 960 ([source][4]). The question is about the fan noise under load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1233/ultra-graphics-performance-for-a-penny&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-coherentsources.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-oc-review,10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1568" RevisionGUID="7cf1cafc-a19e-44f4-b72d-78f176d2fd1a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="A few weeks ago, I asked a question for a graphics card recommendation, [here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1212/graphics-card-for-heavy-gaming-game-development-graphics-design-and-video-edit/1257#1257)&#xD;&#xA;_____&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm planning to buy is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: Intel i7 6700k,&#xD;&#xA; - GPU:  2x (SLI) 980TI,&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: ASUS Z170-A ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I need to choose the RAM, and I'm kinda confused. I know this motherboard supports up to 64GB RAM (4 slots). So I want to max it now to not have problems to deal in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know 64GB ram is a lot, and I'll probably not use it all, but its just for convenience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about [this RAM](http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-2133MHz-KVR21R15D4K4-64/dp/B00NLZANJO)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a good option? Is there any way to improve it? Will this &quot;Temperature Sensor&quot; cause problems?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1637" RevisionGUID="1a2d1289-9401-4d06-b9fb-b81c9967967b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card for Linux gaming. I don't need flagship performance, but still high end. I want to play, for example, some of the top titles on Steam, and perhaps use the same card in Windows with an Oculus Rift kit (which requires nVidia GTX 970 or AMD 290). I want to strike a balance between price, performance, and the following must-have requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good performance and stability using proprietary Linux drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with GNOME 3.&#xD;&#xA; - Works well with Debian (i.e. installing proprietary drivers and keeping them up to date is straightforward and doesn't mess up the package system).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have: at least decent performance and good stability with Open Source drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Related, but not the same: [this question][1] asks for graphics card recommendations for non-gaming purposes, using Open Source drivers.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around 400€ or less, but I'm definitely willing to explore something a bit more expensive if there's a good reason. At the same time, I obviously don't want to spend all of that if I can get nearly the same performance for a proportionately smaller sum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1273/graphics-card-that-works-well-with-linux-open-source-drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1667" RevisionGUID="62a5291e-2a26-41d7-a98b-ab691513b6a0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="After reading [this suggested question][1], the Xiaomi Redmi Note 2 seems like it might be a good fit.  [GSMArena specs][2] look promising, though I'm not sure if it has a removable battery yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wasn't even familiar with this brand of phone, but apparently they're a big manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/48/smartphones-under-100-for-android-development?rq=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_note_2-6992.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1716" RevisionGUID="95fc184c-a3e2-4fe6-b842-1945cd7fe113" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I've posted another [answer and pictures here][1] but I'd recommend the [crossover 289K][2]. I got mine for ~350usd from an ebay&#xD;&#xA;seller called dream-seller though if you're us based there might be cheaper options to buy it from&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its 28&quot; but meets *most* of the specifications. I've got no way to check for HDCP 2.2 support and I cannot confirm that it supports it. Information on support is, to put it mildly, as clear as mud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FullHD or higher resolution: 4K60hz Above spec but its not a terribly pricy monitor&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;4 inputs in total: (4 HDMI or 3 HDMI + 1 DP) 3HDMI 2.0 and 1 DP port, all supporting 4K60. One 1080p VGA input for legacy gear  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 HDMI input must support HDCP 2.2: &lt;strike&gt;Unsure - there's no way to check. Nvidia reports it suggests HDCP but not what version. I'll be glad to run any reasonable check that can be run on a windows box.&lt;/strike&gt; Their horribly designed website suggests it does support it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;switching between inputs should be &quot;easy&quot;: Hit select, pick an input with the arrow buttons, hit select again. Really nice OSD, though button placement is *behind* the screen to save on bezel space. Nice large buttons  and I didn't have too many issues hitting the correct one. Heck it was easier than the side buttons on my old dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;operation without remote control:  Optional remote - which I love to bits. I just hit source to switch sources. Very handy when caliberating the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/682/28-tft-for-under-350/709#709&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&amp;pg=289k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1724" RevisionGUID="08dfbca2-bb48-4bc1-af38-90d3d9fdef8c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I have several hundreds of optical media disks (mainly DVD-R &amp; CD-R) that stores data, that needs to be transferred to a hard disk drive to improve accessibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a possible alternative to a bunch of external slot-in DVDs connected to a computer I'm looking for a CD-R/DVD-R reader carousel that could read data on the DVDs and store it on a OS X, Linux or Windows 7 (64-bit) computer, a portable disk drive or to a NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be just as good as https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1728/142 the reader should be capable of reading at 16x, and number of slots should be at least eight, prices should be below $300, as that would probably be the cost of hooking up eight DVD-Rs to one of my computers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the Digistore Solutions CHUB-DSS Centurion DiscHUB could have been an alternative, but this seems to be unsupported and a quite expensive product at $680:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.digistoresolutions.com/products/centurion-dischub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I have any alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22141" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1728" RevisionGUID="fb57c51e-7a98-494b-b5e4-3e9434759778" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="As I were not able to find a DVD-R [carousel][1] within my price range that includes a reader, I'm considering buying eight DVD-R drives and controller-card(s) for extracting data off hundreds of CD-Rs and DVD-Rs. Most of my DVD-Rs are 16x or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I first thought that the following configuration would work, but connecting four USB 2.0 drives to one USB 2.0/3.0 hub would limit the speed, as the design of hubs in general will have a total capacity of one USB 2.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2 USB 2.0 HUBS : http://www.dx.com/p/m6988-b-power-socket-style-high-speed-480mbps-4-port-usb-2-0-hub-black-40cm-cable-173752#.Vo3l-DZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;- 8 USB DVD-R slot-in drives : http://www.dx.com/p/super-slim-usb-2-0-slot-in-dvdrw-external-optical-drive-for-macbook-silver-black-274392#.Vo3mWDZg1AY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware configuration would have an optimal speed to extract all drives at the same time in good speed?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1724/optical-media-carousel-for-reading-dvd-r-and-cd-r-disks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1785" RevisionGUID="05df85b7-c469-4cb8-8fa9-0b6b9ecb820a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I recommend a HP micro server. You can see a similar question [here][^1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a micro server, it supports 24/7 work though it consumes more power than those NASs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just need some private online storage, router with a high speed usb port + usb HDD/Flashdisk can meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One recommended router is ASUS [AC56U][^2],adding a usb HDD, it can be easily used as a private online storage.&#xD;&#xA;[^1]:https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1745/low-cost-nas-with-easy-os-installation/1755#1755&#xD;&#xA;[^2]:https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC56U/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22143" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1793" RevisionGUID="b8f06caf-d564-47e1-a487-20fa251a007e" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking to get a new keyboard ([and a mouse, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros and programmable backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard can be in a combo with a mouse, as long as the mouse fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $20-$30USD**, depending on how many of my preferred features it meets)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Less than 19 inches** wide (any larger and it won't fit)&#xD;&#xA; - **Decent rollover** (I can't exactly quantify this as I still haven't figured out exactly how rollover works, but as an example of &quot;decent&quot; I'd need it to register e.g. &lt;kbd&gt;Shift&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;A&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;W&lt;/kbd&gt;, and &lt;kbd&gt;Space&lt;/kbd&gt; at the same time)&#xD;&#xA; - Enough **backlighting** that I can distinguish the keys in low light conditions (this is the main problem with my current keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Relatively quiet** (I'm often on the computer when the rest of the house is asleep, and I don't want to be annoying)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros, dynamic backlighting**, etc.&#xD;&#xA; - **A number pad** (I do occasionally use my current one, but it takes up so much extra space... I still haven't decided whether or not it's worth it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I have considered:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [CM Storm Devastator][2]: looks great except that it apparently has two-key rollover. I'm not sure exactly what that means, so I don't entirely know whether it would be good enough.&#xD;&#xA; - [CM Storm Octane][3]: good, but a little expensive, and I don't need the extra mouse buttons, dynamic lighting, or 19 key rollover&#xD;&#xA; - [Logitech K120][4]: definitely cheap enough, three-key rollover, but doesn't have backlighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1797/968&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/gaming/devastator/devastator-green.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/gaming/octane/octane.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/k120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1797" RevisionGUID="cb0dddb3-dbbf-4bd9-9019-242957c3cef9" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking to get a new mouse ([and a keyboard, too][1]). It'll likely be used for 5-8 hours a day for the foreseeable future, mainly for web browsing, programming, and gaming. I am mainly looking for something that will work _well_ for gaming without necessarily having fancy features like macros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap (**under $10-$15USD**, depending on how many of my preferred features it meets)&#xD;&#xA; - Works with **Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA; - **Not wireless** (unless the batteries are going to last years on one charge)&#xD;&#xA; - **Nice scrollwheel for gaming**, i.e. it clicks nicely and doesn't have &quot;smooth&quot; scrolling (these are the problems with my current mouse)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Listed in approximate order of importance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has on-the-fly **adjustable DPI** (so I can easily make pixel-by-pixel cursor/crosshair adjustments without turning on _*shudder* mouse acceleration_.)&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting can be turned on and off**&#xD;&#xA; - Any **lighting is green** to go with my headset (really doesn't matter; I'm willing to pay like an extra $1 for this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extraneous features like **macros**, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse can be in a combo with a keyboard, as long as the keyboard fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1793/968" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22145" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1862" RevisionGUID="1bdcfede-d2f1-4692-a6d5-765e508415df" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="What small small 4k monitors are available that are less than 24 inches?  The smaller and more affordable the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Less than (i.e. not including)** 24 inch nominal size (a 23.8 inch diagonal is a &quot;24 inch&quot; display)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 4k (3840x2160) resolution&#xD;&#xA;* No constraint on aspect ratio&#xD;&#xA;* Available to consumers now or some time in the past (could buy used)&#xD;&#xA;* Include a price if available&#xD;&#xA;* Manufacturer links please&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Astro 9.6in 4k](http://www.astrodesign.co.jp/english/product/dm-3409-a) - 3840x2160&#xD;&#xA;* [IBM T220/T221](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors) - 3840×2400 (WQUXGA), &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A related question has been asked, but requested specific and larger sizes:&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/510/high-dpi-21-or-23-monitor-for-13-macbook-pro/514#514" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22146" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1909" RevisionGUID="c1211260-c8a6-4653-a34c-7b798d0c4f5a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for **external sound card** up to **$100** because I'm using build on [MSI Z87i Gaming AC][1] (or can I use internal sound card on this motherboard ?) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it to gaming and music with 2.0 speakers for about $100 but I don't know which I will buy, yet ([separate question][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [ASUS Xonar U5][3] - $70&#xD;&#xA; - [Prodigy Cube Black Edition][4] - $90&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product should I choose or maybe you have other more intresting propositions ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z87I-GAMING-AC.html#hero-specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1910/2-0-speakers-for-about-100&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Sound-Card-Xonar-U5/dp/B00MI8IDRE/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454051558&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=xonar&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOTRAK-PCUBE-BLK-ED-Prodigy-Black-Edition/dp/B00X8RCPJQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22147" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1910" RevisionGUID="46a859ee-0ff3-4ab3-b606-9f787e35c3aa" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for new 2.0 speakers (actually I'm using Creative T40 Series I).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why change ? - My actual speakers are 7-8 years old and I think that they are not playing so good like at the begining, so I want to change them for new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - active speakers&#xD;&#xA; - stereo, two speaker system&#xD;&#xA; - price: ~100$ (maximum $150 but it has to be explained why it is better choice than ~$100 speakers)&#xD;&#xA; - usage: gaming, listening pop/rock music&#xD;&#xA; - important features: clear sound, hearable bass, volume control on speaker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I looking for ? -&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for speakers with the best sound quality in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My ideas and other recommendations:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Around $100:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1600TIII][1] - $105&#xD;&#xA; - [Microlab Solo 6C New][2] - $115&#xD;&#xA; - [Logitech Z150][3] - $23 - recommended by Journeyman Geek (but I think it's not what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to $150:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Edifier R1700BT][4] - $125&#xD;&#xA; - [Microlab Solo 7C New][5] - $152&#xD;&#xA; - [M-Audio AV42][6] - $148 - recommended by Journeyman Geek (AV-40 not available in my country)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for advice if I can find anything better in this price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1600-t3-2.0-powered-bookshelf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.microlab.com/?r=Stereosystemen&amp;st=full&amp;id=658&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2660/1366&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.edifier.com/int/en/speakers/r1700bt-bluetooth-bookshelf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.microlab.com/?r=Stereosystemen&amp;st=full&amp;id=659&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2659/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1911" RevisionGUID="726e8407-33db-4890-b183-df3a135d3231" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="When given the choice between onboard, Xonar U5¹ and Prodigy Cube² under $100 one would probably go for the highest quality product available. A few years ago I would have chosen the Prodigy Cube, because it has designer components and an impressive professional looking [product page][1]. I bit later I would have gone with professional recording interfaces, but unless you can actually evaluate the objective audio performance of a device, a discussion will be more subjective based on taste and preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Try onboard first. You are already willing to pay for it and it can be your fallback if the external soundcard drops out.&#xD;&#xA;- I recommended to read a review about the Behringer UCA202 (~$30) in: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1663/1329. I feel a bit ashamed for dropping the name in every second answer of mine, but that is as much as I know or have experience with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Asus support staff was unable to answer a question about demanding low impedance headphones regarding their high-end soundcards. I have little to no confidence recommending their products if *&quot;supports 600Ω&quot;* is what they can say about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I was interested in buying a Dr.DAC from Audiotrak until I read that the Alps potentiometer usually crackles and that this can be avoided in high quality designs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://audiotrack.net/en/usb/4009" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="65d18359-4d0d-400e-a168-d3e57aae4002" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I dropped my Nexus 5 because it was so large, it was perilous to handle with one hand (whenever a notification comes, swiping from the top is a pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone with these strong requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Shorter than 12 cm in length, the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run the latest Android version&#xD;&#xA;- LTE or better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16 GB of storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for a good rear-facing camera. Bonus for open spirit (à la Fairphone, Nexus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plastic is OK. If not commercially available, second-hand is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*([20% similar question][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/small-high-quality-android-phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22150" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2068" RevisionGUID="2d2c15ce-b3e5-4ea7-ab49-7bfc709fef2a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="**First solution - perfect match but expensive.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus prepared solution which is perfect for your requirements but it's really expensive and it's over your budget. It's [ASUS CS-B][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual LAN: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel® I217LM&#xD;&#xA; - Realtek® 8111G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Ports &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - 4 x USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's mATX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cost: $200 (Amazon US)** &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Second solution - better and cheaper** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should just use [@john kieran solution][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/CSB/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2067/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22151" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2113" RevisionGUID="0b12b2ec-caf0-444e-b7ab-3f5f1c529173" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for an outdoor IP camera with night vision and good resolution, ability to cover distances about 100 m with good detail (registration plate, face etc.). There are some good recommendations [in this question][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is quite common for theese cameras to have an SD card inserted and recordings can be saved there. Is there a chance there is some IP camera with built-in FTP, SFTP server, or with HTTPS download of recorded video files periodically (nightly)? Like it is possible from an IPCorder device. Or to setup FTP send to some given schedule, like every day at 22:00. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like [VIVOTEK 8372][2] can be configured to send FTP data only when defined event fires, which could be OK, but it is not well documented how it actually works. From [this link][3] it seems that it is rather used for sending pictures from the camera to be shown on a web page which is quite useless for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking around my last hot candidate are Panasonic cameras WV-SFV6 series - in their [manual][4] there is on the page 160 an option `Allow FTP access to camera`. This seems to be promising, even there is a data structure on the last page that looks very well, any experience with this or anything similar?&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that theese cameras are relatively expensive and perhaps installing less expensive camera tohether with NVR would be less costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/59/weatherproof-ip-camera-for-long-distances&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vivotek.com/fd8372/#overview&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cameraftp.com/CameraFTP/Support/SupportedCameras.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ssbu-t.psn-web.net/Products/IP_camera/WV-SFV631L_611L/Manual/PGQP1582WAC1_WV-SPN631_OI_en.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22152" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2126" RevisionGUID="d63a514f-4493-461f-83dc-008c25514e26" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Actually I found other solution which was much cheaper:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I resigned from using LED lighted fan because my case is lighted enough with LED stripes mounted inside it ([thread][1] about light in case).&#xD;&#xA; - I found used (half year on 6V) fans from [NZXT Switch 810][2] which I bought for $5 each.&#xD;&#xA; - I connected it to motherboard via [NZXT Grid+ V2][3] and set them to work only when GPU/CPU will reach temperature above 50 °C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm really happy with this solution when computer is idle it's really quiet and when I start to stress my PC fans are working on RPM dependent to temperatures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone is intrested in this setup I can post some photos on the weekend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1672/choosing-source-of-light-in-case-led-stripes-or-cold-cathodes&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/switch-810-white#product-reviews&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.nzxt.com/products/grid-v2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22153" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2133" RevisionGUID="2ecb0912-e253-4b38-988f-ce8705d823ec" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="English is not my native language so please be patient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At work we use the Raspberry Pi 2 (model B), this device meet all your especifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many boards that may be suitable for your needs. You can check in http://www.bigboardlist.com for more options than Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all of them come with at least one USB and a Ethernet Port, the performance and price varies, but I think the all meet your especifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we're seeking to buy the ODroid C1+, because for the same amount of money we could have a better processor (Maybe not the best Architecture, but best frecuency), better **RAM**, an OTG USB port, build-in heat sink and better GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you plan to make a small server (like we do) you could use the Raspi2 or the Odroid C1, both of them at very low price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Based on the [answer][1] of @Gilles)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/174/1641" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22154" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2278" RevisionGUID="b98876e7-13f3-40ae-a6f0-ce9e9e312337" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Powering USB devices with solar is pretty easy, powering laptops is much harder. You really see the difference in power needs when you are trying to charge them yourself like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm based in a country with an unreliable power supply but good sun with [a setup that can keep my portable PC charged for about 7-8 hours a day](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2248/100w-solar-panel-with-built-in-18v-or-19v-output-voltage-cap) without going to too much trouble. While the exact product I use costs more than your $200 budget, I'm assuming you won't be putting in a full day's work while camping, and there's a lower-power option that should give you a few hours laptop use and a charged USB device on a sunny day that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt; $200 option&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Poweradd 40 watt Solar Charger](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M16KLLE/ref=twister_B00M16KLFU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1), currently $159.99 (it says its on sale from $499.99 but I'm skeptical, there was a similar discount in June last year when I bought my 60 watt). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend PowerAdd's panels because they're high efficiency, very portable, durable, and have some basic voltage control built in, at 18 volts which is suitable for most laptops and battery packs, with optional USB output too straight from the panel. They have both DC output (for a laptop or battery pack) and USB output, and can charge both at once (though obviously both will charge slower). Unlike most regular solar panels (not counting expensive kits like GoalZero's) they're explicitly designed with this kind of use in mind, and come with a variety of laptop and USB device adapters (basically everything except Apple adaptors which need to be bought separately). The 60W even comes with a jump lead and can jumpstart a car (though it looks like the 40W doesn't).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using the larger ($259) 60 watt version almost daily for nearly a year now. It's very portable - folds down to the size of a hardback novel, and weighs about the same.  It's sturdy, too, and flexible, with a bit of give and bend, and a waterproof canvas. It's survived a tropical rainy season (I kept it out of direct heavy rain but it took plenty of splashes and humidity, and some light rain) and a very dusty atmosphere. The 40 watt will be even more portable, and looks just as sturdy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a bit of an art to setting it up such that it points the right way and also keeps whatever you're charging in the shade - I recommend something like washing line or (what I use) bungey cords with carabiner clips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Update:*** the solar market is fast moving and it was over 6 months ago I first looked into this, and since then several new products have appeared that seem to offer the same power and features as the 60W version at the price of the 40W version, from [KingSolar (15V)](http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Efficient-Foldable-Portable/dp/B00QF2NX0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51hvHKTEPeL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW), [Suaoki (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TY8ZYQ?psc=1) and [ALLPOWERS (18V)](http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Technology-Smartphone-Blackberry-Notebooks/dp/B00RFCVR62/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41e7jF9bO3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=01QM6EMB7VB0QGWPV6NW). I know from direct experience that the 60W PowerAdd I use is good, if these are as reliable, they're great value. 40W should be enough for occasional use while camping, 60W will easily be more than enough in an sunny location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not used the 40 watt, but here are some typical real-world outputs from my 60 watt, with an estimated one third reduction applied:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Perfect conditions**, 11am-4pm, pointing directly at the sun, no cloud, sunny day: you can get nearly the maximum output. For me, it's the same as a good mains charger (over 3 amps). The 40 watt pointed up and slightly to the north/south depending on hemisphere should still average around 2 amps for about 5 hours a day since you've got complete freedom in where you place it, which should be enough to fully charge or nearly fully charge most laptops. You can also charge a USB device at the same time which would make the laptop charging comparable to the bullet below.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any one of** light cloud, imperfect angle, or charging a USB device at the same time: This is typical for me since I'm limited in where on my building I can put the thing, so it's typically about 25 degrees off the ideal angle, and typically gets something like 18V / 2.1A during appropriate peak hours (roughly 11AM-4PM) which is comparable to some older laptop chargers. You should get something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough to get a few hours' use out of a laptop each day.&#xD;&#xA;- **Any two of** the above: This knocks it down to something like 18V / 1.4A which is easily enough for a few hours a day but is definitely very noticeably slower than even a very old laptop from the mains. For the 40W it should manage to sustain 18V but will be slow. Probably charges at a similar speed, or slightly slower than, a laptop uses power while on.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fully in shade or overcast, summer daytime**: For example, on a morning when the sun is on the wrong side of the building, or when the sun's behind not-heavy cloud but it's either summer or you're in the tropics. I usually get 15V / 0.3A which is enough to charge slowly but slower than the laptop uses the power. A day like this might give an hour or two's power. For the 40 W it might not charge at all, but it should still charge USB at a respectable speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Heavy cloud, or indirect sunlight on a somewhat cloudy day:** the 60 W can usually manage enough to slow-charge USB (less than 1 amp with the 5 volt USB, or enough to recharge a partially depleted smartphone in a day). I'd expect the 40W to either not do anything, or maybe manage an hour's worth of phone use in a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Important consideration: the voltage input range of your laptop battery.** First, I'm assuming it's 18V input. It might also be very fussy about its minimum voltage, in which case it'd probably not charge reliably except for in the top two bullet conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, and for versatility, I never charge my computer directly and instead connect the panel to a battery pack, but direct charging might work better for some laptops. My battery packs don't like charging and discharging at the same time, so I own two, since I'm keeping my computer topped up from one while working during daylight hours while the other is charging, but assuming you're doing outdoors activities during daylight then whatever one does with a laptop while camping after dark, one will be enough for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use [Intocircuit 26000mAh](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB5VQCE/?tag=stackoverfl08-20) which have a pretty decent 15V-19V input range, and are portable (same size as a paperback book, similar weight to a full water bottle) but they cost $99.99 (again, &quot;discounted&quot; from $299.999 but I've never seen them *not* so discounted) which would exceed your budget. They can also output at 12V and 15V as well as 19V, and as USB, making them very versatile. Weirdly, [Anker sell something that is identical](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Universal-20000mAh-Multi-Voltage-External/dp/B00B45EOYS) (seriously, *identical*) except smaller and lower capacity (20,000mAh). Weirdly, it's also the exact same price. Maybe you can find it cheaper somewhere making this plus the panel $200 or less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're happy with only one or two hour's laptop use a day, and especially if you have more than one USB device, you could just connect a regular USB-only cheap battery pack with capacity around 7000-11000 mAh alongside the laptop, and it should recharge after about a day, enough to then charge two USB devices, while the laptop gains about an hour or two's charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(just be careful to keep everything except the solar panel out of the sun - this can be quite tricky)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/R6RESm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/HT1FEm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22155" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2292" RevisionGUID="b2399d1c-13ef-41e9-b71a-f7316d6bce7d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="_[Edit] restated question trying to emulate a different format found in [this request](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/239/) more closely._&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to have a mid-level virtualization and media server for an extended home environment, and I am looking to spend in the neighborhood of $1,000 (+/-$100) for the core components (MOBO, CPU, and Memory), as I have a case, a single power supply, and several HDD/SSD options on hand already. It will be running Windows Server with either server or client OSes for 2-6 simultaneous home users. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm used to AMD architecture, but I'm quite open to Intel if the costs seem to make sense, in terms of power to run it vs initial layout. Since the architecture is closely intertwined with the CPU and MOBO, I'm not sure how it's practical to separate the two, but I would say __let's focus on the motherboard__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__Requirements__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * At least 32 GB (preferably 64GB) of non-ECC RAM (because I'm not made of money)&#xD;&#xA; * At least 8 cores/threads&#xD;&#xA; * Gigbit LAN (preferably 2 ports) or , for NAS access&#xD;&#xA; * no bigger than Full ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__Not Important__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Lots of USB, SATA or PCI-E (whatever comes with is probably fine)&#xD;&#xA; * Graphics interface (onboard or not doesn't matter to me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22156" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2317" RevisionGUID="85b3fcfa-d9b6-454b-9777-d95c131e6fd3" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'd essentially mirror my answer [here][1] and build something around a [X10SDV-6C+-TLN4F][2] Xeon-D based system. Newegg has it for a hair under the grand *including* an embedded CPU, and unlike some other models, it has a cooling solution. This dosen't include the ram but it'll take standard DDR4, and up to *64 gb* of non ECC stuff (or 128gb of Rdimm ram).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets talk about the nice things about this board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its an 8 core system, *designed* to run VMs, with a TDP of 45W. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lan ports? 2x gig-e. 2x 10gig-e (should you need it). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of band management over IPMI. You can *install the OS over lan*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One PCI x16, one M.2 slot, *6* sata 3 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in a *mini ITX form factor*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could go cheaper but I doubt you'd get all the same features. I've not actually gotten one, but I was seriously considering it at one point, when weighing my options for a home server. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2124/531&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/D/X10SDV-6C_-TLN4F.cfm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22158" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2406" RevisionGUID="44ec5156-4811-4cf7-98a7-c884a9ffef51" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I have Intel Compute Stick which has HDMI male connector as output which I would like to connect to Macbook Pro which has HDMI port (female), USB and ThunderBolt Mini DisplayPort. My goal is to see the screen of the device on my laptop screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried to connect the device to MBP HDMI port, but it doesn't work, so I assume I need to purchase some converter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need to have in order to capture display output from the stick device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would ThunderBolt to HDMI adapter cable would work in that case, or some kind of [virtual webcam][1] or anything else? I've no budget limits (just reasonable price to quality). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/631/15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22159" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="df2b88a1-62a1-46f4-b09d-3609cdff8219" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - https://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &lt;s&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - New supporting driver released on 2017-02-17 (following dependent Windows Updates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Work Arounds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22160" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2568" RevisionGUID="21f1e1dd-d680-4ba4-bebc-165abea19b73" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="If you can spend up to 250 USD and if it doesn't have to be very tiny then I would recommend to look for a smartphone¹. Several apps exist, among them **VLC for Android**, iOS and Windows Phone. I just tried it on Android which works fine with m3u playlists (I never bothered to try until now and VLC on my Windows Phone somehow doesn't read the same file, even if I replace the path delimiters).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can usually get good midrange smartphones in the 200 USD/€ price tier (+ the price for a storage card) with Bluetooth 4.0, more comfortable file sync through apps like Syncthing or ownCloud and HD movie playback capability. Here are some related questions that have already been asked: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/1329&#xD;&#xA;- https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/48/1329&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: In case you're wondering, you can get decent a2dp in-ears from [QCY][1] for under 20 USD and decent fit (I forced Comply foam tips on mine, even though Comply doesn't want support them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You don't have to use it as a phone that spies on you if you don't want to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.qcymall.com/ &quot;All chinese manufacturer website with latest products and support documents&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2605" RevisionGUID="6bcf45df-159d-4909-9be5-7376c181aa1c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="If you are looking for the best performance not looking at price of the PSU I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2][1]** - [$220 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Description:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no price limit the best avaliable PSU's have **Titanium certificate** like SuperNova T2. It was made on Super Flower platform so it guarantees high quality of components. It is **passive** until load around **500W**. It has avarage efficiency on low loads around **88.7 %** and on normal loads avarage efficiency is **94%**. EVGA also comes with **10 years warranty** what is really good offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Titanium certified&#xD;&#xA; - semi-passive - quiet until ~500W load&#xD;&#xA; - top end efficiency &#xD;&#xA; - 10 years warranty&#xD;&#xA; - fully modular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is top end PSU made on components from SuperFlower with higest performance among 850W PSU's. If you are looking for hardware and not looking at price you should think about buying this product. If you want to buy PSU which will work also good with your setup and will be cheaper (but not so quiet and with worse efficiency) I would recommend my [other answer][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438064&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink3945mb40035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2606/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2606" RevisionGUID="5484c64e-70fa-4b77-8a1d-5b069a0ed1d4" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="If you are looking for the best choice for paid money I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2][1]** - [$160 on newegg.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Description:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This PSU has **Platinum certificate** and it was made on Super Flower platform so it guarantees high quality of components. It is **passive** until load around **340W**. It has avarage efficiency on low loads around **84.2 %** and on normal loads avarage efficiency is **92.5%**. EVGA also comes with **10 years warranty** what is really good offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most important features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 80 Plus Platinum certified&#xD;&#xA; - semi-passive - quiet until ~340W load&#xD;&#xA; - really good efficiency results on low and normal loads&#xD;&#xA; - 10 years warranty&#xD;&#xA; - fully modular&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Final conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is really good PSU made on components from SuperFlower. If you are looking for best efficiency for spend dollar you should think about this PSU. It will work good with your setup and stay quiet when PC is idle or it is under small load. If it's not enough for you should think about Titanium EVGA PSU which I described in my [other answer][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-0850-X1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438056&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3821802&amp;SID=ink39bbf9v0035wt00053&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/2605/1366" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2622" RevisionGUID="f6a5145c-2917-4715-87d7-8b29b10fccb0" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="There exist several [Cherry MX Switch Testers](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2619/40). I am looking for a Topre Switch tester.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, it should contain the same key switches as the ones used in [Topre Realforce](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_Realforce). The price should be cheaper than buying the full keyboard. I do not mind about shipping constraints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have only found this [Switch Tester](https://www.massdrop.com/buy/cooler-master-switch-testerv2), which contains only one Topre Novatouch switch (and 5 Cherry MX: Black, Red, Brown, Blue, and Green switches). I would like more Topre switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/9t0yy.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2794" RevisionGUID="204df840-6388-4492-b4a3-411c7cf6ed21" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm going to essentially steal RPhipps answer from here and suggest an [older X series thinkpad][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an x220, and from his ebay link, they're roughly in the 200USD range, and around 12 inches. While its an older system, sandy bridge holds up well and its really lean.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice things? Its *trivial* to upgrade. Mine's got roughly twice the ram as stock, a 250gb SSD replacing the 300gb stock disk and an easily replacable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All you need is a small screwdriver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/616/laptop-for-simple-tasks-and-remote-work/618#618" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22167" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3856" RevisionGUID="7aa8a380-4840-491e-995e-f4eb0dd5e738" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="**Before buying an ASUS laptop, please read [this][1] first.**&#xD;&#xA;-Thanks [ArtOfCode][2] for pointing this out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS makes good general use Laptops. I've owned an ASUS laptop a couple generations older than this one and had no issues other than the battery life left a lot to be desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard feels very solid (similar to a MacBook Pro).&#xD;&#xA;Trackpad could be a little better but worked quite well.&#xD;&#xA;Solid USB other connections. Not wiggly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Image courtesy of Newegg.com][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS X751LX][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://web.archive.org/web/20160606135858/http://teletext.zaibatsutel.net/post/145370716258/deadupdate-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JuDUW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9B53PV8864" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3872" RevisionGUID="03211a2c-8377-4d5a-98a5-bc60d5334a4d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Buy a used 15&quot; MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - an SSD &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The used market shifts quickly, but right now there's a [Mid 2010 15&quot; with 8GB RAM and a 256GB SSD](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS) on eBay for $499, buy-it-now. [Preserved for posterity when the eBay page goes down](https://web.archive.org/web/20160608175800/http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-MacBook-Pro-A1286-Mid-2010-15-i7-2-6GHZ-8GB-RAM-256GB-SSD-Hard-Drive-/301978607420?hash=item464f53df3c:g:NesAAOSwLnBXV6dS). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worst case, buy one with a normal HDD and [install an SSD yourself](http://www.cnet.com/how-to/upgrade-your-macbook-install-ssd-hard-drive/). It's not that hard, and you can use any standard SSD. Plus, you now have an external HDD for use as a Time Machine backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - decent 15&quot; screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot; non-Retina Pros have a 1440x900 IPS (high viewing angles) display, and can run an external display or two without a hitch. I use my 13&quot; on my desk every day, the quality is comparable to my Dell U2515H. It's also bright enough to be used on its own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - usable trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple makes the most usable trackpads I've ever touched. I haven't used a mouse in weeks; I use the trackpad on my 13&quot; Pro and my external Magic Trackpad 2 (same technology). No one comes close in terms of feel and usability - even simple things like thumb/palm rejection are implemented flawlessy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You shouldn't have any problems staying well within your $800 budget, especially if you're not looking for newer hardware (which you don't need for the tasks you mention, a 2009 Pro would blow those out of the water).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're made of aluminum, a.k.a. they're built like a tank. It's *hard* to actually damage one to the point you would notice it in daily use. I dropped (flung, actually) a 2009 13&quot; Pro from a backpack about five feet in the air. It flew across the room, squarely hitting the corner a steel shelving unit. It left a nice dent in the casing, and I thought the edge-to-edge glass would be broken... [nope][2], the casing absorbed the impact. That's a tiny dent, especially considering the forces involved. [Another picture][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A common argument against Apple machines is that they're 'too expensive' - actually, [they're cheaper to own over their lifetime](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/415/1) when you take into account resale value (which Apple laptops hold, and no other laptops do).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/jT6Cu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/4I6Gg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22171" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4079" RevisionGUID="ea6f4a45-8a6a-4666-82dd-0aa3c10f1cba" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="A Newegg tech advisor noted that Asus and Lenovo case designs tend to be pretty quiet.  Rather than build I decided this time to buy a Lenovo 300-20ish on sale, which was actually cheaper than building an equivalent system.  Been a while since I've bought a finished desktop, but it's a really neat little tower, and it's quieter than any other computers I use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As [Peter noted](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4039/84), keys to silence are, foremost, to keep fans off or slow.  This system is built around a 65W CPU, and I haven't (yet) put a power-hungry GPU in there (I realized I can run 4k off the MB's HDMI).  So the PSU and CPU fans aren't going crazy, I put [a quiet spinning disk](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4078/84) inside along with the primary SSD, and it's just *quiet* all the time!  (Except, of course, when I'm using the optical drive.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4116" RevisionGUID="fd3b029f-865b-4b41-b828-67145f69866d" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="Get something **newer**. Your card has **192-bit Memory Interface Width**, and a memory bus that slow is **not** going to **handle 3gb's of memory very efficiently**, even with a single card. You would be in a much **better** position with a **single 970 or 980**. While the amount of **VRAM might be greater** with the two 760's, **you won't see better performance** than you would out of a single 970 or 980. And you'll also have to deal with the first four problems I list in this answer [here][1]. Let me quote myself: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; First, you won't have to fuss around with getting **SLI** to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Second, some games **do not even support SLI properly**. Now this may **not happen often**, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know *most* games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there **are some compatibility issues** with certain games...) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Third, **power consumption**. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Fourth, **resale value**. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these issues apply directly to your situation as well. Except the power consumption would be **slightly different** for 760's vs 970's; but the same concept applies, you'll be **drawing significantly more power**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would also have to **find** a 760 3gb card, which would be tough to get new, so you would be stuck with used or refurb models off of eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all? **Don't go for SLI**, instead of searching for the same card, **save your time**, **put more money up front** and get yourself a **GTX 970 or 980** (go Ti if you can!). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sources: [GTX 760 3gb Specs][2] | [GTX 970 Specs][3] | [GTX 980 Specs][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4058/1x-gtx-1080-or-2x-gtx-970&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760-oem/specifications?ClickID=cvlkpk4q4xkikainsvfwfskkaei4zilwwnsn&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22174" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4175" RevisionGUID="86b25bd8-3fea-431e-b823-26660bfbec32" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for parallel computing in tiniest form possible. For example, having two 18 cores Intel Xeon parked on both sides of motherboard with size of credit card would be ideal solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Couldn't found any motherboards (compatible with CPUs with 10+ cores) without USBs, Wifi, PCIe and other ports, that makes them only bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More specifically I need best Cores per Square Meter ratio possible: CPU and motherboard models.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1.5-2GHz is ok. More = better, but not critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, it is to build high-dense CPU farm&#xD;&#xA;- no, it is not for mining, it is for math, non-GPU calculations&#xD;&#xA;- yes, amount of cores (multithreading) is critical&#xD;&#xA;- yes, huge 4x&quot;Intel Broadwell-EP CPU&quot;s server motherboards are ok until they bring best cores/square ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Updated (12.07): ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering answers below which I have at the moment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No AMD at all, Xeon processors it is, E5 or E7 is to be evaluated by cost/density/power factor, will update with calculations later.&#xD;&#xA;- I'm also in blade servers with extreme density WITH support of Xeon Phi - some of applications will run on it nicely with reuse of code and data, have spent a day looking for specifications and cost, will update as soon as will have nice configuration on hands&#xD;&#xA;- regarding CUDA and Nvidia Tesla, that is a separate question and it is solved already, will share specifications with you later, thank you, [SEJPM](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4184/3925)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is already decided that configuration will have BOTH Xeon E5/E7 and Xeon Phi on same boards (not on all of them though). [Cray supercomputers already use it][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkf3U_5QG_4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Updated (12.07)[2]: ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear: I've a lot of small binaries (cross-platform, C++ and Java) each of them work for seconds with parallel computing full-support. When it comes to situation where there are significantly less cores than amount of threads/processes started, overall efficiency drops due to a lot of context switching between processes. And there is no way to queue jobs, let's say they are to be done in real-time manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best way is to distribute them among Xeon Phi (store code and preseed with data) + run others as a tiny-services (solving issue with binary loading overhead) waiting for jobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is why I search for comparatively cheap solution with high cores density to not to maintain big amount of units, solving more problems with data-logistic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22175" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="0309e508-be8f-4171-9ea2-0dc4857c672e" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I want to buy a computer (new/unused, ideally off-the-shelf) that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* contains absolutely no proprietary software by default, and&#xD;&#xA;* can be used without installing proprietary software (it’s fine if non-essential things are not supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Device ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn’t matter what kind of device it is (desktop, laptop, [tablet](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/301/30 &quot;Tablet that comes with 100% FLOSS&quot;), [smartphone](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30 &quot;Smartphone that ships without pre-installed proprietary software?&quot;), single-board computer, …), as long as the user can plug in **a monitor, a keyboard, and a mouse**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should allow to connect to the **Internet** somehow. It does not have to be built-in, as long as there is a supported external device available that also only comes and runs with Free/Libre software only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound output** would be nice, too, but this could also be an external device (again, if a suitable Free/Libre one is available and supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Operating system ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would welcome if it can run a (well known) GNU/Linux or BSD operating system, but I don’t want to require it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, it should be a &quot;real&quot; OS, i.e., a system that allows users to update it and to install software; not a single-purpose system (like an [e-book reader](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1548/30 &quot;E-book reader running only free/libre software&quot;)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Use case ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Browsing the Web, managing files, writing documents, listening to music, using the terminal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No HD videos, no video/graphic editing, no games, no compilation … nothing that requires much power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### What I found so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The Free Software Foundation [certified](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom) three laptops ([Libreboot T400](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-t400/), [Libreboot X200](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-x200/), [Taurinus X200](https://shop.libiquity.com/product/taurinus-x200)).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Problem: Not new/unused. They use refurbished laptops (i.e., they bought used laptops that came with proprietary software, replaced parts, flashed the firmware, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Earth-friendly EOMA68 Computing Devices](https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68/micro-desktop) offers single-board computers (and optionally corresponding desktop/laptop housings, whose design gets also published under a libre license). Its Libre Tea Computer Card will likely get FSF’s RYF certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Problem: It’s in crowdfunding currently. Could become a good solution, but only if they will be available for sale after the crowdunding period.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to be clear, I do not require [FSF’s *Respects Your Freedom* certification](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom). The difference between their and my requirements is that I’m fine with OS that make the installation of proprietary software easy, as long as the user has the choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4333" RevisionGUID="f98d2386-82a4-4fb0-bda4-215d0ca0ae6a" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="This question is here after I ask this one: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4275/uhd-compatible-graphic-card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is that I have a HTPC and would like to be able to read UHD movies (since the i3's IGP cannot). As you can see in the previous question, finding a passive GPU with UHD display is impossible for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, during my researches, I found a motherboard that embed a CPU (Pentium J3710) http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp. Following the description, it should be able to do UHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This motherboard is a good start but appart from the Asrock's description, if I go onto the Intel website, I cannot find any information about this CPU and its IGP (espectially the maximum resolution). However, it doesn't support RAID (which is mandatory for me). I didn't find another product like this. Maybe you could ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements for a motherboard that embed a CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably passive and low counsumption&#xD;&#xA; - UHD resolution output with hardware h265 decoding&#xD;&#xA; - At least 3 SATA connectors (2 for RAID, one for BlueRay). 3 or 6GB/s, I don't mind&#xD;&#xA; - My current chassis is Micro-ATX so no ATX, but Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX are ok&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, 4k60 is preferred, but any suggestion, even 4k30 is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22178" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4368" RevisionGUID="b636217a-3122-4bdd-824e-b4f7bec515f3" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for a basic phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such a thing is still manufactured. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life phones. Now they don't make phones (if they are even still in business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have fond memories of a small, grey, rubberized Nokia - was it an N45? - with a screen barely an inch in diagonal (just three lines of display), and I'd be glad of something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need Daul SIM, Wifi, BlueTooth, GPS, color screen, radio, not even music player; just calls &amp; texts (and those will be few, and far between).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question][1] looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIM, which I do not require.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Nokia are [relaunching the 3310][2]. 100 hours standby for Eur 59&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.vanguardngr.com/2017/02/nokia-3310-makes-a-comback/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22179" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4404" RevisionGUID="36827aad-f596-4356-bc3e-6e6a7575de31" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for an action camera that has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPS built in&#xD;&#xA; - All metadata (mainly GPS) needs to be accessible via an API. I need to be able to pull this metadata for any point in a video. &#xD;&#xA; - At least 1080p video; the faster the framerate the better&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to be mountable (I am planning on attaching this to a drone or gimbal with GoPro mounts)&#xD;&#xA; - Still photos are a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need an LCD&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to be waterproof&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My budget for this is approximately $450. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Access to the metadata does not need to be possible while it is recording. I need to be able to access it when I am processing a video file so that I can pin point a video's recorded location on a map, or map out a route the device took on a map. This will all be done post processing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is similar to a previous [Action Camera question][1], but not exact. The main differences are the need for the built in GPS/metadata access and higher budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1463/57" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5676" RevisionGUID="617295ef-fdbe-415f-89c2-cd7cf3330d36" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="In [another question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/5675/is-dual-channel-memory-or-pcie-nvme-ssd-more-important-for-overall-performance), I asked how one specific difference between the Dell E7470 and the Lenovo T460s affects performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on other differences between these two notebooks, I'm leaning towards the Dell E7470.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although the Dell E7470 supports PCIe NVMe SSDs, they will [run at half of the PCIe bandwidth](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/anyone-upgrade-a-pm951-in-a-laptop.791497/page-2#post-10264901). If I buy this notebook, how much would I still benefit from replacing the stock SATA III SSD with a PCIe NVMe SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm talking about performance gain noticable in practice, with my main usage being software development and running virtual machines.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22182" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="2e29332d-0dd4-45e1-8ff1-97d3c24b194b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for a device to create a &quot;personal zone&quot; to prevent other from hearing what I say. E.g., if I seat in an open space office and give a phone call, I don't want other people to hear me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Muzo](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/muzo-personal-zone-creator-w-noise-blocking-tech-sound-sleep#/), which has a &quot;Secret mode to protect speech privacy by Sound Masking&quot;, but the product isn't available yet (expected release date: spring 2017) and [some people](https://www.reddit.com/r/shittykickstarters/comments/4p67v0/muzo_your_personal_zone_creator_wtf_is_this_even/) weren't so optimistic about it on reddit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [stenomasks](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/479/40), but there are quite uncomfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this Stack Exchange website focuses on electronic devices, if you have some ideas that doesn't involve electronic devices, you're welcome to share them on this question posted on Home Improvement: [Isolating a workstation located in an open space office](https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/99326/6573).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22183" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6281" RevisionGUID="3baa8711-799d-46a0-9dac-f55e6cfc79bb" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="You can find a question I asked that's [related to this here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I rent my office space together with (at times) upwards of 20 other people, like a little office community. Most of these people run their own small business or are freelancers and one request that many wanted was the ability to have their own &quot;space&quot; on the network. Their own SSID that they have the password to and can connect to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently looking for a new Router/AP for my office, but since I live in Norway there isn't a lot of stored/webstores that cater to professional or small business needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not dabbed this much into Networking before so I'm unsure where to look for pieces of this puzzle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The store I'm looking at [can be found here][2] and translates almost perfectly to English.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the routers from the other question support setting up multiple SSIDs like my office mates want, I was thinking about buying an Access Point on top of the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whenever I search online, it seems like most people recommend the Ubiquiti APs, the only pet-peeve I have is that I want to avoid cables wherever I can, it's preferable that the AP is wireless and not cabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, how would the Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC LR which to my understanding supports up to 8 SSIDs compare against the Zyxel NWA1123-AC (I read the Zyxel supports up to 16 SSIDs?) for my usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a hard time believing we'll need more than (at maximum) 20 SSIDs at the peak in our current location if that helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very open to other suggestions as well as long as it's available at the website I provided above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm struggling. I appreciate any help and insight I can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6279/decision-on-router-for-small-businesses&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.komplett.no/category/10273/datautstyr/nettverksprodukter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22184" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6352" RevisionGUID="5572ef8a-c34f-44ef-8d04-7ad9547b959c" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I need something similar to what James asked [here][1], e.g. a headphone amp/splitter with separate output volume controls and 3.5 jacks for in and outs, but I have slight different needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. it must be USB powered or removable battery powered, no rechargeable lithium battery accepted here&#xD;&#xA; 2. it must have at least 3 jack outputs with their respective volume knobs&#xD;&#xA; 3. if nothing else exists, it can be a whole USB soundcard, because I'm going to use it only connected to a computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched several times, but either I'm not searching with correct terms, or such a product does not exist at all. All my searches ended up with the FiiO E6 at best, which is not what I'm looking for, because it's only two outputs and it uses internal lithium rechargeable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/501/portable-headphone-amplifier-splitter-w-separate-volume-control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6382" RevisionGUID="fbadadf2-9a71-4b1e-b25c-d1259a5103ca" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="As of present I have a Genius K9 118-Key Wired Dual-Color Backlight Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall I've liked the keyboard, but it's reached the end of its lifespan. I've heard great things about mechanical keyboards, so I'm looking to make the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of programming, but also play a lot of games, so based on research it seems the best switch for me is either Cherry MX reds or browns. I've heard that browns aren't very good for perpetually shifting around keys like WASD, so I've decided on the reds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from that, my requirements for a new keyboard are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Must have large enter key spanning two rows&#xD;&#xA;- Layout must be same as previous keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- Must have backlight that is or has option for blue or orange&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight must shine only through character text on keys -- not glow in between the keys&#xD;&#xA;- Body must be black&#xD;&#xA;- USB wired connection (if the keyboard requires multiple, that's fine)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be below $200, but preferably around $100-$150&#xD;&#xA;- Must be available from or shippable to US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I've decided it's fine if the key's aren't in the same place as my current keyboard, so long as the overall shape is the same (large shift on left, large enter, large backspace) and I can program the keyboard to change the location of keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer if the spacebar was nice and fat as it is on my current keyboard, but I can adjust if it's not. I have no preference regarding multimedia keys, hand rests, or USB ports/headphone jacks built into the keyboard. I'm usually in a dark environment, so I need the backlight to distinguish between keys in the rare but possible event that becomes necessary, but I find the glow around the keys to be distracting, even if the color is static.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of the models I looked at, the two I liked the most were the [ASUS Strix Tactic Pro](https://www.asus.com/Keyboards-Mice/STRIX_TACTIC_PRO/) and the [Corsair K70 RapidFire](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/5991/5107). They both fit all but one of the requirements: the Strix doesn't have a double-row enter key, and the Corsair has glow around the keys instead of just through the characters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any options on the market that satisfy all of the listed requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNdUCm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22186" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6520" RevisionGUID="5ef32571-2a0b-4ccd-b6c7-b77984154b29" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="A while ago, I asked [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2669/a-v-receiver-for-hdmi-optical-audio-in), wondering if there was a good A/V receiver that could meet my needs. I received a helpful answer, but forgot about it because of school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm back looking for A/V receivers, but now that I know they tend to be more expensive, I did another Amazon search and came across [this Yamaha device](https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V679BL-7-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00VIRG3GO). $350 doesn't seem too bad (it is as expensive as the TV it's powering, but that's alright), and it's rated highly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is, it has 6 HDMI in; I have three (+1 potential) HDMI devices. There are also 4 digital A/V in, two analog A/V in, plus two more analog audio in. It also has 7.2 surround and a &quot;Zone 2 Party Mode&quot; feature. That's all really nice, but I'm not sure I'll ever need that many inputs and outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do want to keep BT+WiFi if possible. I can give up the streaming options (BT works around that), but wireless control is handy (my phone does have IR, but that obviously only works in direct line of sight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This receiver has tons of features, and it's really tempting to buy it because of that. But I don't think I have much use for everything it offers. Is there a more toned-down version of this, that's maybe a little cheaper? I only need four HDMI really, an optical audio in and one or two analog A/V in. 5.1 surround maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked out the lower models of the V679, but they're either not available, more expensive than the higher tiers, or not cheap enough to justify the feature loss." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22187" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6539" RevisionGUID="6ce605f4-f78f-4bd0-8c17-9b2ec8ba5d89" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="You might try what's described in [this][1] video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically what he does is bend the &quot;retention pins&quot; inside the female end of the USB port so that the male plug is held in more firmly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if your &quot;USB drive&quot; is a &quot;stick&quot; that just plugs in, or a short cable with a portable HDD on the end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; If it is a portable hard drive with a cable, (see image) you could do what user NZKshatriya suggested in [a previous question][2] and &quot;*just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop*.&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in conclusion, the two best options I think you have are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bend the (possibly loose) USB &quot;retention pins&quot; on the female USB plug &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop&quot; (assuming that it is a portable hard drive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_ruqSrkxNU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6523/is-there-such-a-thing-as-a-schleptop-small-portable-desktop-ish/6527#6527&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF9Uw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22188" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6566" RevisionGUID="a9fd3c75-826e-4129-8060-b6d146b61426" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="I am looking for an indoor camera with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- night vision with infrared  (i.e. can see in a 100% dark room)&#xD;&#xA;- no Internet access needed &#xD;&#xA;- save video (e.g. on an SD card)&#xD;&#xA;- at least 480p&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't need to have a microphone but it is ok if it has one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a hard threshold on the price but below 100 USD sounds reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case: I am performing a study on sleep positions with several human subjects. Understandably, they want privacy, which an Internet access cannot guarantee.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found many cameras satisfying all requirements except the no Internet requirement, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [YI Dome Camera Pan/Tilt/Zoom Wireless IP Security Surveillance System 720p HD Night Vision (US Edition)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CW4BG4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)&#xD;&#xA;-  [FDT 720P HD WiFi Pan/Tilt IP Camera](https://www.amazon.com/FDT-Megapixel-Wireless-Security-Nightvision/dp/B01GF5M42A/ref=zg_bs_524136_36?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;-  [Zmodo 720p HD WiFi Wireless Smart Security Camera Two-Way Audio](https://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-Wireless-Security-Camera-Two-Way/dp/B01HH3UWU0/ref=zg_bs_524136_31?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6HH4RC51ZYBC47E0A52W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related but different: [Security camera that doesn't use a third party](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2670/40)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6582" RevisionGUID="2baf8ce4-dbb7-4c34-8ae4-27bd1c02f78f" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:00:47.107" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ with https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/" Text="The [technical document](http://www.fujitsu.com/downloads/COMP/fcpa/hdd/discontinued/MHV2xxxBH_Install.pdf) (page 3-10, which is the tenth page of that PDF) for this drive says it's a standard SATA connector; 15 power pins P1-15 and 7 signal pins S1-7. For this, you'd need a standard double SATA signal/power connector; [something like this, perhaps](https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Splitter-Female-Power-Cable/dp/B00M3UTFTM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**However**, something about your pictures looks off. Look at the pictures of the cable I linked to above, in particular this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SATA cable, showing male and female connectors](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ELrMKYQhL._SL1200_.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connectors in this image don't match up with the images you posted of your own drive. As NZKShatriya [mentioned in a comment](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6581/what-hard-drive-connector-is-this#comment10569_6581), I suspect that HP have modified the connector on the drive so that you are forced to use their products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you still have the old HP laptop, your best shot at getting the data off the drive is to reinstall the drive, and use the laptop to transfer data to a more modern, more widely compatible solution (like a USB stick; you could fit the entire contents of that drive onto a 128 GB USB stick like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0)). If that fails, you're stuck with contacting HP and asking them how to get your data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="249" RevisionGUID="8ca4b655-68a6-4883-bcfd-41acd329af6b" CreationDate="2017-04-13T13:01:14.213" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://iot.stackexchange.com/ with https://iot.stackexchange.com/" Text="I'm looking for thinnest tracking device such as [TrackR sticker][1] to be able to tag multiple objects, then track them down using some smart app. For example for organizing or locating the lost items. So basically it should allow me to apply a unique name. Item ringer (ring activated by app) would be an advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using TrackR, but I had some [issues][2] when item ringer was activated by itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm curious if there are some alternatives to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thetrackr.com/sticker&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://iot.stackexchange.com/q/238/271" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7217" RevisionGUID="51c4f09a-1e0f-45cb-94c9-8ef903694b87" CreationDate="2017-04-13T19:07:31.137" UserId="5559" Text="I am looking for an E-Reader for reading scientific articles. The main difficulty I see here is, that most E-Readers seem to be optimzed for viewing scalable ePub files. However I need a device which is able to quickly render complex PDF pages with smaller font sizes and complex figures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, to sum it all up, I need a device with a large display in order to keep the font size readable when displaying a whole page on the one hand and on the other hand a device which is fast enough to render complex PDF pages in an acceptable speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option I am still not sure about is the kind of display: I am a great fan of energy-saving eInk displays; but are there some who are able to display colors? So, I am looking for a recommendation and eventually experience reports, if available. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22196" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7217" RevisionGUID="51c4f09a-1e0f-45cb-94c9-8ef903694b87" CreationDate="2017-04-13T19:07:31.137" UserId="5559" Text="E-Reader for PDF files optimized for printing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22197" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7217" RevisionGUID="51c4f09a-1e0f-45cb-94c9-8ef903694b87" CreationDate="2017-04-13T19:07:31.137" UserId="5559" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22198" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="3d3f0f39-13df-4b1d-b24d-b2251899b77e" CreationDate="2017-04-14T00:22:39.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7220" RevisionGUID="a6c7e6aa-fb41-4bc5-9346-6b63f8a3aef9" CreationDate="2017-04-14T07:59:33.400" UserId="6024" Text="I need to create a video matrix.  &#xD;&#xA;4 video HD streams in (10MB/s each, 1080p), 1 HD stream out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This can be done with ffmpeg and vlc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be done on a CLI linux server.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In test everything is working, except that the hardware is too slow for this.  &#xD;&#xA;Can someone confirm that the **cpu** is the bottleneck for this project? Or is this something that does it's calculations on a GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or if it's possible: what hardware setup would you recommend for this? Creating a 2x2 video matrix is the only thing that the server needs to do." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22206" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7220" RevisionGUID="a6c7e6aa-fb41-4bc5-9346-6b63f8a3aef9" CreationDate="2017-04-14T07:59:33.400" UserId="6024" Text="Recommended hardware for ffmpeg/vlc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22207" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7220" RevisionGUID="a6c7e6aa-fb41-4bc5-9346-6b63f8a3aef9" CreationDate="2017-04-14T07:59:33.400" UserId="6024" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="e9b2e5f9-bc23-482e-9e95-482c6076d684" CreationDate="2017-04-14T15:17:38.557" UserId="1951" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I have two audio sources, both using 3.55mm &quot;headphone jack&quot; outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have one set of powered stereo speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to connect both sources to my single pair of speakers. Ideally, I'd like to be able to hear both sources at the same time. I DEFINITELY do not want to have to press a button to manually switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need anything fancy—-no individual volume control or microphone inputs or anything like that. But I do want to avoid any significant loss of audio quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I do this for under $25? Or if that's completely unreasonable, how can I do it for as little money as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; While I suspect this won't matter since the audio is already analog, I play a lot of rhythm video games, so anything that introduces latency is a no-go.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22214" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7223" RevisionGUID="b27e592a-f81a-4014-93d8-02c0fb45ef7d" CreationDate="2017-04-14T21:27:59.297" UserId="5740" Text="I need a laptop that will cope with light video editing, software development, and maybe a bit of gaming if I have time. I regularly have 30+ tabs open in Chrome, with multiple Word / Excel / Outlook instances open and run disk intensive downloads frequently&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is £875 (GBP) including UK VAT absolute max.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Needs to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An Intel Core i7 5th Gen or greater&#xD;&#xA; - At least 256GB harddrive, SSD preferred but can be an m.2 of lesser capacity as long as it has a second HDD&#xD;&#xA; - FHD (1920x1080) resolution or better&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of RAM or more &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; or larger Screen&#xD;&#xA; - 8 or more hours of battery life on general computing, not intensive stuff clearly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bear in mind I have built a PC before, and if a cheaper laptop is upgradeable within my budget, im happy to do that, such as buy a bigger internal hdd or RAM with the laptop all within the £875 (GBP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22215" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7223" RevisionGUID="b27e592a-f81a-4014-93d8-02c0fb45ef7d" CreationDate="2017-04-14T21:27:59.297" UserId="5740" Text="Laptop for business use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22216" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7223" RevisionGUID="b27e592a-f81a-4014-93d8-02c0fb45ef7d" CreationDate="2017-04-14T21:27:59.297" UserId="5740" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22220" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="94e58ea8-da1b-4ad8-9e84-3d089d99186a" CreationDate="2017-04-15T05:55:00.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7224" RevisionGUID="588d6a05-d219-4459-b33a-bda66a6e9fce" CreationDate="2017-04-15T08:15:11.000" UserId="6029" Text="Lately I have been running in problem with my recent laptop and i have decided to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking for a laptop to answer the following things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Powerful CPU (Kaby Lake i7 with Dual Core, even Quad if the price is not high)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. 8GB Ram minimum and the ability to extend up to 16 gb if needed in the future..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Small in size (13' inch) and weight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Battery Life pretty long for at least 7 hours&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. 512GB of SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Ability to use a Pen with the ActivePen support(TouchScreen + 360 degree flip)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. Thunderbolt ports to support : 2 monitors, external GPU, external Keyboard and mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. Has decent ability to play games like Dota2, League of Legends and Overwatch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current laptop is Lenovo Y50 and I didn't really liked it because of its weight and the design, the laptop i had before was HP envy(don't really remember the model number) which was pretty strong with DualCore and 1.5Kg in weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HP was pretty great but water was poured on him by accident.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main issue with the requests of the laptop was the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptops that were answering these categories but not fully were HP Spectre x360(2017 edition) and Microsoft Surface 4, Dell XPS 13, Lenovo Yoga 710/910. Each laptop had something missing except for the latest HP Spectre x360 but the price was very high.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now after all this summary, I saw yesterday that a new laptop has emerged from Lenvovo. The Lenovo Yoga 720 which actually does answer my expectations BUT!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing I'm afraid now are the following topics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I know that i can connect an external GPU for example GeForce GTX 1080, but what about it's preformance through the Thunderbolt, does it degrade? does anything else been done on the CPU(not the GPU processing unit) itself or the iGPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. I want to connect to 1 of the Thunderbolt ports a peripheral which will give me 2 DisplayPorts/Hdmi so I could connect the laptops to 2 monitors at home with keyboard and mouse to work. When I'm not i just disconnect the laptop from the connections and go to College or work. but doesn't 2 monitors will be really hard on the Intel Iris 620? I mean wouldn't the 2 monitors make it degrade or die faster or something like that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worth saying that I don't really want to purchase a desktop pc(not a laptop) because of the features i noted at the beginning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any other options you can recommend instead the Lenovo Yoga 720 i would like to hear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More over, I heared the Lenovo has Yoga 720 15 inch model which has GTX 1050 dedicated GPU which can be at help at my case.&#xD;&#xA;But if the solutions i suggested are better i will go with the 13 inch model with anyone opinion that is on board with the 13 model :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you and sorry for the long post" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22222" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7224" RevisionGUID="588d6a05-d219-4459-b33a-bda66a6e9fce" CreationDate="2017-04-15T08:15:11.000" UserId="6029" Text="Laptop recommendation for 2 monitors at home, drawing, programming and occasionally gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22223" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7224" RevisionGUID="588d6a05-d219-4459-b33a-bda66a6e9fce" CreationDate="2017-04-15T08:15:11.000" UserId="6029" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="22225" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7225" RevisionGUID="ce6425c2-9ffa-4b9c-8a7a-13158becde07" CreationDate="2017-04-15T18:55:09.563" UserId="155" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="22227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7226" RevisionGUID="a2b897f9-8d31-40a6-9959-3ff0c114106c" CreationDate="2017-04-15T18:55:09.563" UserId="155" Text="For questions about devices that capture and store video via network connections." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22228" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7226" RevisionGUID="a2b897f9-8d31-40a6-9959-3ff0c114106c" CreationDate="2017-04-15T18:55:09.563" UserId="155" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22236" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="58a06711-a7be-423a-a985-a2a7e67c0be4" CreationDate="2017-04-16T14:49:58.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22238" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6325" RevisionGUID="81e84635-a045-4fed-87c7-a5e841158c66" CreationDate="2017-04-16T15:50:00.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22239" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6467" RevisionGUID="511c65dc-39e7-4ab6-9092-ef7abf1034b0" CreationDate="2017-04-16T19:42:47.987" UserId="1885" Comment="Corrected grammar, including run-on sentences and out of place capitalization. Removed edit call out." Text="At first, I would recommend you to rethink your Monitor Setup, UHD uses twice as many pixels in height than HD. If you move objects from one screen to another or just look from one to another, you will get serious headaches. I have this problem with a 1920x1200 main monitor and a 1280x720 second monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other side, gaming or not, your setup will have a total resolution of 3840x3420. That means you will need something in the area of a GTX1070 or similar. This also means that you will have a good chance to find one with 3 Display Ports, which I also would recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cards that have 3 Display Ports and should do the job, if you want to be safe pick the GTX1070. If you want to try for a bargain, get a GTX1060. I can't recommend ATI, because I had some bad experiences with those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, this is a shop link, because in this shop you can easily compare and look what else in on the market. You can select one and get them from somewhere else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.alternate.de/Hardware-Komponenten-Grafikkarten-PCIe-Karten-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-Gaming/html/listings/1346?lk=8406&amp;sort=PRICE&amp;order=ASC&amp;showFilter=false&amp;filter_2203=NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1070&amp;filter_2203=NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1060&amp;filter_2249=3.0#listingResult&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22240" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6467" RevisionGUID="511c65dc-39e7-4ab6-9092-ef7abf1034b0" CreationDate="2017-04-16T19:42:47.987" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 155 edit id of 588" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22246" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7223" RevisionGUID="0bc0e238-8745-4017-9f8b-c865f3de452b" CreationDate="2017-04-17T13:02:26.293" UserId="5740" Comment="Changed Title" Text="I need a laptop that will cope with light video editing, software development, and maybe a bit of gaming if I have time. I regularly have 30+ tabs open in Chrome, with multiple Word / Excel / Outlook instances open and run disk intensive downloads frequently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is £875 (GBP) including UK VAT absolute max.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Needs to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An Intel Core i7 5th Gen or greater&#xD;&#xA; - At least 256GB harddrive, SSD preferred but can be an m.2 of lesser capacity as long as it has a second HDD&#xD;&#xA; - FHD (1920x1080) resolution or better&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB of RAM or more &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to have (not vital)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15&quot; or larger Screen&#xD;&#xA; - 8 or more hours of battery life on general computing, not intensive stuff clearly&#xD;&#xA; - A dedicated GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bear in mind I have built a PC before, and if a cheaper laptop is upgradeable within my budget, im happy to do that, such as buy a bigger internal hdd or RAM with the laptop all within the £875 (GBP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22247" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7223" RevisionGUID="0bc0e238-8745-4017-9f8b-c865f3de452b" CreationDate="2017-04-17T13:02:26.293" UserId="5740" Comment="Changed Title" Text="Laptop for light video editing, programming etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7233" RevisionGUID="98391d87-cb14-4c9f-ab8d-2059c7436791" CreationDate="2017-04-17T13:28:31.363" UserId="5740" Text="What you need is something like this, maybe a cheaper one with two inputs, I couldn't find anything, but you might be able to using a little Google Fu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/373759-REG/Behringer_MX400_MX_400_MicroMix_Four.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can then grab a couple adaptors, such as the ones linked below to convert your 3.5 to a quarter inch input and output, which then you connect your speakers to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/851064-REG/Comprehensive_SPP_MJS_ADAPTER_ST_1_4_PHONE_PLUG.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This breaks your budget by a couple of dollars, but you could shop around and get it from Amazon or somewhere cheaper like that.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22255" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="d044599f-e9c4-4706-b402-da5555eaadf6" CreationDate="2017-04-18T00:29:35.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22256" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7235" RevisionGUID="e1a53be5-28e9-434f-bf7d-91468963cc45" CreationDate="2017-04-18T02:58:21.777" UserId="3980" Text="Considering your requirements, I'd recommend Dell's [New Inspiron 15 5000 (5567)][1] which goes for about **£799 + VAT and delivery**. From personal experience, Dell's laptops tend to be decently robust and are of good quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Reasons for Recommendation:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Meets All of your Requirements:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 7th Gen Kaby Lake i7-7500U @ 2.7GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 1920x1080 FHD Display&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB DDR4-2400 MHz&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;*Meets of your non-Vital Requirements:*&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; Anti-Glare Display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [7hrs 35min run time on battery while browsing.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GPU - AMD Radeon R7 M445&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD upgrades are possible, however they may not be within your budget since most larger capacity SSDs cost more than £75.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![5567][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/uk/p/inspiron-15-5567-laptop/pd?oc=cn55717&amp;model_id=inspiron-15-5567-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://laptopmedia.com/review/dell-inspiron-15-5567-review-a-good-all-rounder-for-work-multimedia-and-even-gaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ppnzf.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7236" RevisionGUID="bd687b51-50f5-4b18-a63b-1ec75582ab70" CreationDate="2017-04-18T03:10:46.670" UserId="6042" Text="I am not extremely familiar with hardware. This question might be easy to answer. &#xA;&#xA;This server has been advertised to handle 6 GPUs. My question is that can it support 6 **Dual Slot**/**Double Width** GPUs (High End Quadros, GTX 1080, Titan Xs). This is a 2U Server.&#xA;&#xA;If yes, does it support consumer cards such as GTX 1080 Tis or Titan Xs? How can the power cables be routed?&#xA;&#xA;Model: Supermicro 2028GR-TRHT&#xA;&#xA;Supermicro's Website: https://www.supermicro.com/products/system/2u/2028/sys-2028gr-trht.cfm&#xA;[This is how the server looks like (Image from Supermicro)][1]&#xA;&#xA;Thank you. Help is appreciated. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkkqd.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7236" RevisionGUID="bd687b51-50f5-4b18-a63b-1ec75582ab70" CreationDate="2017-04-18T03:10:46.670" UserId="6042" Text="6x Dual Slot GPUs on SM 2028GR-TRHT" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7236" RevisionGUID="bd687b51-50f5-4b18-a63b-1ec75582ab70" CreationDate="2017-04-18T03:10:46.670" UserId="6042" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7237" RevisionGUID="482115f0-7e54-41d0-af89-49d3927c4167" CreationDate="2017-04-18T04:07:28.097" UserId="5358" Text="It would help if you told us why you want the server; what your goal is. Even without this knowledge, I will be able to answer your question.&#xA;&#xA;Simply, no. The card doesn't advertise room for 6 GPUs. It advertises 6 slots that COULD be used for GPUs. Not only will it not support 6 GPUs, it will not support either GeForce or Quadro GPUs. It will only support Tesla GPUs (as described by [this chart][1]). &#xA;&#xA;Now, I am going to assume that you are looking for this for professional use (as a server for a company, not home use for gaming or something else). If you are looking for something with 6 GPUs because you need that much power, check out the [Nvidia VCA][2]. It holds 8 Nvidia Quadro GPUs and features 20 physical Intel Xeon cores, and 256 GB of RAM. While it does not include internal storage beyond a 2 TB SSD, if you are dropping the money on that beast, buying a large NAS and the 10GBps network infrastructure equipment you will want to connect all these toys won't seem expensive.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.supermicro.com/support/resources/GPU/&#xA;  [2]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/visual-computing-appliance.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22261" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="391cf22a-b0db-47f2-93f2-531cd8beb9a3" CreationDate="2017-04-18T04:42:52.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7233" RevisionGUID="a906c992-f0ad-44a1-9898-e9e7fcf4bee2" CreationDate="2017-04-18T09:21:28.773" UserId="5740" Comment="added option" Text="What you need is something like this, maybe a cheaper one with two inputs, I couldn't find anything, but you might be able to using a little Google Fu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/373759-REG/Behringer_MX400_MX_400_MicroMix_Four.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can then grab a couple adaptors, such as the ones linked below to convert your 3.5 to a quarter inch input and output, which then you connect your speakers to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/851064-REG/Comprehensive_SPP_MJS_ADAPTER_ST_1_4_PHONE_PLUG.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This breaks your budget by a couple of dollars, but you could shop around and get it from Amazon or somewhere cheaper like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: This is a mono mixer, so you will need a mono to stereo 1/4&quot; phono adapter for the output, such as [this one here from amazon](https://www.amazon.com/kenable-Stereo-Socket-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B003OSXND6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492506996&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kenable+Metal+3.5mm+Stereo+Socket+to+6.35mm+1%2F4+inch+Mono+Jack+Plug+Adapter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will look for an option that supports true stereo, but i should imagine this would fit your needs.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7240" RevisionGUID="3248fca8-c5df-4de3-9d3e-c638d42cf9b6" CreationDate="2017-04-18T11:22:13.633" UserId="2158" Text="Hi I'm looking for a system/rack or something similar which will be capable of formatting 10 SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It can be more but no less than 10 drives. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking of some kind of server rack with the soul purpose of formatting the drives. Is this a good idea? I'm open to an suggestions as long as they involve formatting multiple drives from a single system/rack.&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to keep costs down as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also is there commercial software that supports the format of multiple drives?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JD0gK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22268" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7240" RevisionGUID="3248fca8-c5df-4de3-9d3e-c638d42cf9b6" CreationDate="2017-04-18T11:22:13.633" UserId="2158" Text="System to format at least 10 laptop SATA drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22269" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7240" RevisionGUID="3248fca8-c5df-4de3-9d3e-c638d42cf9b6" CreationDate="2017-04-18T11:22:13.633" UserId="2158" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22272" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="575" RevisionGUID="02f3066a-147a-4815-a397-70c4add9b096" CreationDate="2017-04-18T12:20:58.327" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7241" RevisionGUID="33ed6238-4d8c-447b-89cb-7fdbf0ef2ee5" CreationDate="2017-04-18T13:19:41.207" UserId="6043" Text="I would like to know the best HDD for massive videos storage, and by massive I mean: at least 2-3GB per each video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried HGST 8TB HDD but is not working for me because the enclosure I got is not giving enough power to run correctly or maybe is my laptop's fault.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I was thinking about smallest HDDs like 2TB/each.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I pick to store videos and don't worry about losing any data in the next 3-4 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to Backblaze's tests, HGST and Toshiba seem to be the best if we talk about failure rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So yeah, I would need like 5-10HDDs at 2TB each HDD, that's like 10TB or 20TB of videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you guys recommend? Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22282" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7241" RevisionGUID="33ed6238-4d8c-447b-89cb-7fdbf0ef2ee5" CreationDate="2017-04-18T13:19:41.207" UserId="6043" Text="HDD for Videos storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22283" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7241" RevisionGUID="33ed6238-4d8c-447b-89cb-7fdbf0ef2ee5" CreationDate="2017-04-18T13:19:41.207" UserId="6043" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22284" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="61027f3a-3224-4274-bf8b-5510820611e2" CreationDate="2017-04-18T14:54:13.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22292" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="88c74334-59ad-48a3-a196-c654e0cfcbdd" CreationDate="2017-04-18T18:52:50.160" UserId="4040" Text="I have a laptop which does not have a graphics card, so when heavy computation processes run, all the computation has to be performed by the CPU and it's inbuilt graphics unit. Now because at times there are many tasks running side by side, the load on CPU increases and it gets hotter, and after a threshold point, it gets shutdown instantly in a fraction of second. I clean the fan every week to make sure there is no dust that blocks the passing of warm air out; but I want a better solution. What can I add to my hardware on top of the current heat sink to make sure the cooling becomes more efficient?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please avoid answers like keep a cooler fan to be kept under laptop as a solution. Need a hardware solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Dell 15R Inspiron core i5 Arrandale processor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22293" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="88c74334-59ad-48a3-a196-c654e0cfcbdd" CreationDate="2017-04-18T18:52:50.160" UserId="4040" Text="Hardware addition to keep laptop temprature low" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22294" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="88c74334-59ad-48a3-a196-c654e0cfcbdd" CreationDate="2017-04-18T18:52:50.160" UserId="4040" Text="&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22295" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="28e580ba-aca3-49b7-b10c-fe6a1f552910" CreationDate="2017-04-18T18:57:57.940" UserId="4040" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I have a laptop which does not have a graphics card, so when heavy computation processes run, all the computation has to be performed by the CPU and it's inbuilt graphics unit. Now because at times there are many tasks running side by side, the load on CPU increases and it gets hotter, and after a threshold point, it gets shutdown instantly in a fraction of second. I clean the fan every week to make sure there is no dust that blocks the passing of warm air out; but I want a better solution. What can I add to my hardware on top of the current heat sink to make sure the cooling becomes more efficient?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please avoid answers like keep a cooler fan to be kept under laptop as a solution. Need a hardware solution if there's any.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Dell 15R Inspiron core i5 Arrandale processor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22296" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="a51dcac4-eef5-4434-9a67-181dd0f5335b" CreationDate="2017-04-18T19:18:22.813" UserId="4040" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body; deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I have a laptop which does not have a graphics card, so when heavy computation processes run, all the computation has to be performed by the CPU and it's inbuilt graphics unit. Now because at times there are many tasks running side by side, the load on CPU increases and it gets hotter, and after a threshold point, it gets shutdown instantly in a fraction of second. I clean the fan every week to make sure there is no dust that blocks the passing of warm air out; but I want a better solution. What can I add to my hardware on top of the current heat sink to make sure the cooling becomes more efficient?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please avoid answers like keep a cooling fan under laptop as a solution. Need a hardware solution if there's any.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Dell 15R Inspiron core i5 Arrandale processor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22297" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="f079e565-2fe7-4433-86e5-63945a162ff2" CreationDate="2017-04-18T20:58:46.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7247" RevisionGUID="da8513bd-b82a-4a76-8de8-399fe313425c" CreationDate="2017-04-19T04:27:05.897" UserId="6047" Text="You're honestly better off just formatting each hard drive individually. It would probably take less time to format them one by one than to search around for a good deal on a 10x hard drive supporting server rack. It probably wouldn't be worth the money at all to buy a new rack and barely worth it to buy a second hand server for the sole purpose of formatting hard drives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7248" RevisionGUID="218b2142-97bf-43f4-95b8-a9f70a3354a4" CreationDate="2017-04-19T05:13:40.233" UserId="5742" Text="Laptops over time especially as they get older generate more heat as they keep up with the latest OS and software which gets more demanding.3-4 years is the lifetime I realistically expect any laptop to perform comfortably. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;cooling pads don't offer much. Look into  Opolar LC05 Laptop Cooler with Vacuum Fan that attaches to the fan vent of laptop. A little better than cooling pad. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also make sure aero theme is disabled, if  you are using windows and check on CPU usage to find which processes are using the CPU most. Disable unnecessary services and programs that start up on boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7251" RevisionGUID="751b26aa-6f8a-40e5-ac33-4b6eaf7ced12" CreationDate="2017-04-19T15:03:42.340" UserId="6050" Text="can you advice me some good laptops for back end development? &#xD;&#xA;Primary I need good procesor for running servers like, Geoserver, IIS, and so on (i7 ?) and a lot of RAM (12-16GB or more). I do not know if I need external graphic card, I am using sometimes Photoshop for small design, or photo editing.&#xD;&#xA;For data I need 512GB SSD or more (if HDD, price must be lower for bought custom SSD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is max 2000$. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22316" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7251" RevisionGUID="751b26aa-6f8a-40e5-ac33-4b6eaf7ced12" CreationDate="2017-04-19T15:03:42.340" UserId="6050" Text="Laptop for developer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22317" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7251" RevisionGUID="751b26aa-6f8a-40e5-ac33-4b6eaf7ced12" CreationDate="2017-04-19T15:03:42.340" UserId="6050" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7253" RevisionGUID="f744b13f-f4cf-48b3-93b5-2b0123dbf245" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:34:17.357" UserId="976" Text="I would recommend the [Lenovo ThinkPad P50][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an overview of the specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-6700HQ (4 Cores/8 Threads) at 2.6GHz (Turbo to 3.5GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB DDR4 2133MHz RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Quadro M1000M GPU&#xD;&#xA; - $1920&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i7 Should be able to drive a couple servers at once, since it has 8 Threads. 32GB of RAM should be more than enough for multiple running processes. A 1TB SSD should give you low latency, fast R/W, and a large amount of data storage. The Quadro M1000M GPU should be fine for photo editing and driving multiple displays if needed. I believe there are 2 more 2.5&quot; Bays, so you can add more storage in the future if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8TK4C50285" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7254" RevisionGUID="8a7742db-c85d-442c-bd38-52b3bb6085f8" CreationDate="2017-04-19T18:45:50.510" UserId="6028" Text="If the cooling pad underneath is not sufficient- have you thought about the big and nasty option to stick a heat pipe in the CPU heat sink and attach additional heat sink to it. Probably you will be able to use the build in fan and no more than 3-4 ribs will have to be bend. There are also flattened heat pipes that will be easier to install. That might give you the additional 10-20W extra cooling." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22328" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7240" RevisionGUID="cf154018-6b35-435e-a255-bbbb7e8eea00" CreationDate="2017-04-19T21:06:16.330" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7255" RevisionGUID="5ef24fdb-efe0-4844-b52f-bb43237236e9" CreationDate="2017-04-19T23:02:13.017" UserId="6052" Text="A few months ago I bought an i7-4790 with the hopes of overclocking it. Now I've got a pretty good cooler with the CPU running at 40 degrees celsius at max. workload. I soon realised, I needed the K-version to overclock it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth buying the i7-4790K with the hopes of overclocking it to 4.4 GHz? Or should I buy a newer version? I want to stick with the socket and mainboard if possible. Mainboard is MSI Z97 Gaming 3. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7255" RevisionGUID="5ef24fdb-efe0-4844-b52f-bb43237236e9" CreationDate="2017-04-19T23:02:13.017" UserId="6052" Text="i7-4790 vs i7-4790K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7255" RevisionGUID="5ef24fdb-efe0-4844-b52f-bb43237236e9" CreationDate="2017-04-19T23:02:13.017" UserId="6052" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22333" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="990a47ba-1e10-46e3-a226-f08c9ca22466" CreationDate="2017-04-19T23:32:56.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22334" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="ec089293-097f-4da6-9cf2-360e7e39c078" CreationDate="2017-04-20T00:32:57.893" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7256" RevisionGUID="9c8157a0-5b31-4c45-9dfa-1b6f91fc9b78" CreationDate="2017-04-20T08:20:24.430" UserId="6054" Text="Please check [here][1] I had some problem like this and this website solve my problem.&#xD;&#xA;I hope this could help you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.ekl-ag.de/en/products/it-solutions?gclid=Cj0KEQjwuOHHBRDmvsHs8PukyIQBEiQAlEMW0CUmE6K-EuZnO067tIG0JPJAMEMw2HZvRjD29fg3LYoaAmZW8P8HAQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7257" RevisionGUID="89751f5c-4089-40ab-b8e9-7910e0393b0a" CreationDate="2017-04-20T13:12:14.677" UserId="6056" Text="I'm looking for a server capable of performing the following tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Can be used as a build-server (we have several developers using&#xD;&#xA;   Microsoft Team Foundation Services)&#xD;&#xA; - Continuous integration of massive projects&#xD;&#xA; - Perform CPU intensive tasks (mostly user-mode data parsing)&#xD;&#xA; - Can be used for load balancing of other stations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The server must be able to run hundreds of processes simultaneously (therefore must include large amount of cores [16+])&#xD;&#xA; - Must contain at least 64 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Better not include an OS (we already have license for Windows Server so we don't want to pay extra money for operating system)&#xD;&#xA; - We don't need a lot of storage but we must have at least 1/2 TB of SSD.&#xD;&#xA; - Better be quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22338" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7257" RevisionGUID="89751f5c-4089-40ab-b8e9-7910e0393b0a" CreationDate="2017-04-20T13:12:14.677" UserId="6056" Text="Recommended enterprise server for build, CI and CPU intensive tasks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22339" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7257" RevisionGUID="89751f5c-4089-40ab-b8e9-7910e0393b0a" CreationDate="2017-04-20T13:12:14.677" UserId="6056" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7258" RevisionGUID="4acf4957-090d-4c7d-b4f1-eb1d11123b06" CreationDate="2017-04-20T14:56:43.587" UserId="6057" Text="I'm looking for a smartwatch, that can record an playback audio, without a phone, as I don't have one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###I'd also prefer that it&#xD;&#xA;- have an app store, development kit available, e.g. ios, android wear, or tizen make sense&#xD;&#xA;- &lt; $200&#xD;&#xA;- vibration support&#xD;&#xA;- speaker&#xD;&#xA;- microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find so many of these watches want you to have a phone - e.g. the Pebble Time.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22341" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7258" RevisionGUID="4acf4957-090d-4c7d-b4f1-eb1d11123b06" CreationDate="2017-04-20T14:56:43.587" UserId="6057" Text="Smart Watch - record and playback audio without phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22342" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7258" RevisionGUID="4acf4957-090d-4c7d-b4f1-eb1d11123b06" CreationDate="2017-04-20T14:56:43.587" UserId="6057" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7259" RevisionGUID="4658f7f4-eb29-4232-b989-b713737461bc" CreationDate="2017-04-20T23:10:11.210" UserId="6059" Text="are there any tablets which do not allow for the user to typing using fingers, only a pen, Because I want to have a tablet running XP where I can use lying down to type word docs and bug test apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I normally use a phone, since It is small and can be used with one haand, however the touch keyboard and the fact that it is android and has a small screen is not good for typing notes. (I also have poor eyesight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think a hardware keyboard is probably not a good option. XP has two built in on screen keyboards and many third party apps are available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22344" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7259" RevisionGUID="4658f7f4-eb29-4232-b989-b713737461bc" CreationDate="2017-04-20T23:10:11.210" UserId="6059" Text="Fairly Modern Pen Only Tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22345" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7259" RevisionGUID="4658f7f4-eb29-4232-b989-b713737461bc" CreationDate="2017-04-20T23:10:11.210" UserId="6059" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22346" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="974" RevisionGUID="fe9f8db8-4be8-4141-b51f-ba2945b3c024" CreationDate="2017-04-21T00:46:16.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7259" RevisionGUID="efdd5e41-c35f-44ec-b91c-46278714debd" CreationDate="2017-04-21T00:59:48.757" UserId="6059" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="are there any tablets which do not allow for the user to typing using fingers, only a pen, Because I want to have a tablet running XP where I can use lying down to type word docs and bug test apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I normally use an android phone for typing/web browsing, since It is small and can be used with one hand, however the touch keyboard and small screen is not good for typing. (I also have poor eyesight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think a hardware keyboard is probably not a good option. XP has two built in 'on screen keyboards' and many third party apps are available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22348" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7259" RevisionGUID="220a369b-272c-4f53-9b4f-ce8d48bf2c1a" CreationDate="2017-04-21T01:04:55.237" UserId="6059" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="Pen Only Tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7260" RevisionGUID="71320cbe-419c-4adf-bbb0-705b9dda8180" CreationDate="2017-04-21T04:36:21.897" UserId="6028" Text="Single board PC with HDMI out is quite common but HDMI input is quite exotic even for standard PCs. It will probably have to add on card. There are many TV capture cards and the low end is analog video. Higher end are also with HDMI in, but are much bigger and power demanding. And this will diminish the single board advantages. Are you looking for webcam video modification on the fly or real HDMI capture?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 1.0 bandwidth is defined as 4Gbit/s (1080p/60 Hz) which could not be handled by Raspberry PI. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22356" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="7a1c600b-b033-4a7c-91f2-962873725cd5" CreationDate="2017-04-21T07:51:03.547" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7261" RevisionGUID="d3eead30-8476-42d6-addd-238ea440d52a" CreationDate="2017-04-21T10:20:27.863" UserId="6060" Text="I am looking to buy a 220v 10a Universal power adapter for Europe (Schuko type) i.e. something like this:&#xD;&#xA;[![Universal power adapter for Europe][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that the majority of those, do not have the ground pin connected even if they advertise it as grounded:[![not grounded][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or they just can't hold 10a:[![burned][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: Where can I find a proper plug adapter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aakG6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/idqwg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3kyB.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22358" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7261" RevisionGUID="d3eead30-8476-42d6-addd-238ea440d52a" CreationDate="2017-04-21T10:20:27.863" UserId="6060" Text="Universal power adapter for Europe grounded" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22359" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7261" RevisionGUID="d3eead30-8476-42d6-addd-238ea440d52a" CreationDate="2017-04-21T10:20:27.863" UserId="6060" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22360" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7262" RevisionGUID="d1d42872-6c9b-4aac-bd25-899a075a41b4" CreationDate="2017-04-21T13:55:22.953" UserId="6062" Text="I have to buy a tablet for a research project. During the project I have to collect sensor and user inputs of the tablet (The goal is to predict the attention level of the user with machine learning). I'm thinking about the following sensors / specifications the tablet should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Proximity sensor (proximity of face to device)&#xD;&#xA; - Acceleration&#xD;&#xA; - Gyroscope&#xD;&#xA; - Pressure sensor (touchscreen pressure)&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen input (where touched, trace,...)&#xD;&#xA; - GPS&#xD;&#xA; - Audio / Video (front cam)&#xD;&#xA; - Sim card slot / WLAN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are more sensor which I'm currently not aware of, feel free to mention them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course the OS (e.g. Android) has to provide facility to read out the corresponding values. I think the Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 fulfills all requirements, except the pressure sensor. I'm not aware of an Android device which has a pressure sensor built in. I know that new Apple smartphone have a pressure sensor but I don't know if Apple tablets have a pressure sensor as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which device would you recommend fulfilling the above requirements (and having perhaps additional sensors)? May it be Android or iOS..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22361" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7262" RevisionGUID="d1d42872-6c9b-4aac-bd25-899a075a41b4" CreationDate="2017-04-21T13:55:22.953" UserId="6062" Text="Which tablet with a lot of sensors (proximity, pressure,...)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22362" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7262" RevisionGUID="d1d42872-6c9b-4aac-bd25-899a075a41b4" CreationDate="2017-04-21T13:55:22.953" UserId="6062" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7263" RevisionGUID="034ce787-9a21-4f2e-b52f-7d998c3f3e10" CreationDate="2017-04-21T17:52:12.750" UserId="4043" Text="To answer your question: &quot;Is it worth it?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably not.&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;It depends on the specific value you'd get and the difference in cost. You can probably sell your Non-K chip to cover over 50% of the unlocked processor, likely even more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're interested in tinkering for its own sake then overclocking can be fun and challenging - the kicker is that the only place you'll really see a benefit (aligned with what Alpha mentioned) is in synthetic benchmark software and CPU temperature values.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you are somebody who stands to benefit greatly from marginal gains in maximum CPU clock speeds. If this is the case I would suggest you scrap your current build and start anew with Kaby Lake or Ryzen (depending on specific application usage)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22369" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="843cd22c-aa02-4818-82d9-f7e69df82cb4" CreationDate="2017-04-22T06:33:23.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7265" RevisionGUID="6c935959-01aa-44c6-ade2-25ee5a0cb48c" CreationDate="2017-04-22T07:14:51.310" UserId="5531" Text="I'm looking for a USB hub, and learned that [USB3.0 has an interference problem with 2.4GHz devices](http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html) such as routers (though I don't care that much, because I have a dual-band router) and wireless mice (which I do care about, because that's how Logitech mice work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there mixed USB 3.0 + 2.0 hubs other than [this one, which has power problems](https://www.amazon.com/review/RIW21U51G492W)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And do mixed hubs solve this interference problem if I connect the 2.4GHz device into a 2.0 port of the hub?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(My encounter with the interference was that I had my Logitech mouse plugged in, and when I plugged in a Google Pixel phone, the mouse started stuttering massively.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22371" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7265" RevisionGUID="6c935959-01aa-44c6-ade2-25ee5a0cb48c" CreationDate="2017-04-22T07:14:51.310" UserId="5531" Text="USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 powered hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22372" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7265" RevisionGUID="6c935959-01aa-44c6-ade2-25ee5a0cb48c" CreationDate="2017-04-22T07:14:51.310" UserId="5531" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22373" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="dc23f353-be2f-4d1d-8a7f-dadeb7c3d4d4" CreationDate="2017-04-23T00:12:15.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22375" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7266" RevisionGUID="16727558-54e9-4d03-a2c9-186720e117cf" CreationDate="2017-04-23T09:14:29.413" UserId="5740" Text="I would say that the s2 already has pressure sensitivity built it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The article linked below says that it has been in Android since API level 5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://pocketnow.com/2015/09/07/force-touch-android-has-had-that-for-years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7267" RevisionGUID="d93ecc41-8cb8-49c7-b660-4657435196df" CreationDate="2017-04-23T10:00:31.617" UserId="6070" Text="For my new application I'll have to start a vector tile server. I followed [this] tutorial and started such on my old laptop for tests. I would like to know best hardware recomendations for this type of server as there aren't any clear informations about this in Google. Are they the same as for standard OSM server?&#xD;&#xA;I expect high usage (more than 1000000 users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [this]: https://github.com/tilezen/vector-datasource/wiki/Mapzen-Vector-Tile-Service" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22377" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7267" RevisionGUID="d93ecc41-8cb8-49c7-b660-4657435196df" CreationDate="2017-04-23T10:00:31.617" UserId="6070" Text="vector tiles server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22378" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7267" RevisionGUID="d93ecc41-8cb8-49c7-b660-4657435196df" CreationDate="2017-04-23T10:00:31.617" UserId="6070" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7268" RevisionGUID="f71cd51b-fb3d-4fab-ac4e-4d6d3e35be9e" CreationDate="2017-04-23T11:26:55.250" UserId="5442" Text="I know that a good mobile phone does this, but I would like to have a camera-ish camera with real buttons, and that I do not need to download my pictures to my laptop but I could upload to facebook on the fly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the correct search term for such a device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GSM camera gave me surveillance video cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22380" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7268" RevisionGUID="f71cd51b-fb3d-4fab-ac4e-4d6d3e35be9e" CreationDate="2017-04-23T11:26:55.250" UserId="5442" Text="Camera with gsm card and facebook client" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22381" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7268" RevisionGUID="f71cd51b-fb3d-4fab-ac4e-4d6d3e35be9e" CreationDate="2017-04-23T11:26:55.250" UserId="5442" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7266" RevisionGUID="cc0c6db2-0dd5-44ea-9464-511da1c36537" CreationDate="2017-04-23T14:38:32.610" UserId="5740" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="This article linked below mentions that pressure sensitivity has been implemented in Android since API Level 5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would see no reason why the S2 wouldn't have these features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://pocketnow.com/2015/09/07/force-touch-android-has-had-that-for-years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7269" RevisionGUID="4c643821-87c1-4434-be01-715537fb75be" CreationDate="2017-04-23T14:42:12.997" UserId="6068" Text="[![Hard Disk port][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;This is the Laptop's Hard Drive That I want to connect to my PC.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOwiw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;[![My Existing SATA Cable][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This is the existing Hard Drive Cables in my PC.&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXMTG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;Which Cables Should I purchase to connect HDD to my PC ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22384" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7269" RevisionGUID="4c643821-87c1-4434-be01-715537fb75be" CreationDate="2017-04-23T14:42:12.997" UserId="6068" Text="HDD connector for laptop hardidsk to PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22385" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7269" RevisionGUID="4c643821-87c1-4434-be01-715537fb75be" CreationDate="2017-04-23T14:42:12.997" UserId="6068" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22386" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6909" RevisionGUID="a5643983-3bfa-482e-97e5-c6b6f72917aa" CreationDate="2017-04-23T15:34:00.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22387" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="f15249f2-42d2-4b01-a1c7-92d8c48541c5" CreationDate="2017-04-23T16:34:04.010" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22389" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6551" RevisionGUID="0d589d4e-d674-4b1d-bf5b-f9df0625b697" CreationDate="2017-04-23T21:38:51.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22391" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="bd283c52-eb1a-4109-99fd-cb576d9fc374" CreationDate="2017-04-24T09:56:33.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6970" RevisionGUID="f26a38b0-6919-4ac2-86a5-799dbcb79272" CreationDate="2017-04-24T11:21:22.943" UserId="964" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="**Update:** See my answer. **TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, **if anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase,** whether laptop or desktop **I'd love to hear about it and please post below**. What would also be helpful is a **PATA-SATA adapter that supports ASE functions**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ha, I found this one: http://www.datadev.com/hard-drive-eraser-data-security-secure-erase-overwrite-software-hammer.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At four grand, a little on the pricey side :)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7270" RevisionGUID="603c246f-6248-47d4-9bcd-78e59cdc2aa5" CreationDate="2017-04-24T16:07:22.107" UserId="4896" Text="Like BigElittles, I'm a Plex fan, and my current preferred method for viewing my own videos and photos is Plex-through-Amazon-Firestick. If I had a smart TV (w/web browser), I may have accessed Plex via the web interface - I have Plex running as a service *on my home server*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use Kodi; it's possibly more expandable than Plex, but certainly I think Plex is the more polished of the two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prior to this, I used a Western Digital WDTV box and an AC Ryan Playon HD Mini - both essentially the same thing: a little box that connects to your network, and/or local storage and plugs directly into your TV. Out of the two, I preferred the WDTV box. Most of these devices have a fully functional remote, rather than the simplified remotes that come with the Firestick/Chromecast&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the rise of Plex/Kodi &amp; Firesticks/Chromecast, these Media Players are falling out of favour, so should be fairly cheap to pick up. In fact, I still have both of mine, because the resale value of them is so little.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, unlike Firesticks\Chromecasts and the like, **they don't require a computer/server/NAS** to provide access to your external hard drive. You connect your TV to the media player and your external disk to the media player and you are up and running." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="f32ee0fb-3f74-4e1e-b80d-195d8adf59da" CreationDate="2017-04-24T16:10:11.170" UserId="6081" Text="Disclaimer: This is _not_ a question about which beamer to buy, as this kind of question is usually not useful on SE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may buy my first beamer soon. It will be used primarily for streaming HD videos/movies in a living room, from diverse sources (laptop, BD player, other boxes). It will be mounted to the ceiling (normal middle european height - 220-230cm or so), the maximum area to be filled by the image is about 3m wide, but it is not necessary to actually use that up fully, I believe. Sitting distance is about 3-4m away. It will be used during the day and the night. Obviously I accept a very limited viewing experience during the day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the important technical points I need to look at when deciding between different models? Obviously it needs the correct inputs for whatever players I want to attach to it. Then I will likely have to look hard at the cost of the device vs. the cost and frequency of replacing the bulb. And noise may play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a industry-wide comparable measure for luminosity? Does image quality differ wildly these days or is it basically sorted? What else is important? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22395" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="f32ee0fb-3f74-4e1e-b80d-195d8adf59da" CreationDate="2017-04-24T16:10:11.170" UserId="6081" Text="Beamers - what should one keep in mind while researching" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22396" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="f32ee0fb-3f74-4e1e-b80d-195d8adf59da" CreationDate="2017-04-24T16:10:11.170" UserId="6081" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22398" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="1b5e5c19-7167-4f74-a91d-13429748dfee" CreationDate="2017-04-24T20:05:31.227" UserId="6081" Comment="edited title" Text="Projectors - what should one keep in mind while researching" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="1b5e5c19-7167-4f74-a91d-13429748dfee" CreationDate="2017-04-24T20:05:31.227" UserId="6081" Comment="edited title" Text="Disclaimer: This is _not_ a question about which projector to buy, as this kind of question is usually not useful on SE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may buy my first projector soon. It will be used primarily for streaming HD videos/movies in a living room, from diverse sources (laptop, BD player, other boxes). It will be mounted to the ceiling (normal middle european height - 220-230cm or so), the maximum area to be filled by the image is about 3m wide, but it is not necessary to actually use that up fully, I believe. Sitting distance is about 3-4m away. It will be used during the day and the night. Obviously I accept a very limited viewing experience during the day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the important technical points I need to look at when deciding between different models? Obviously it needs the correct inputs for whatever players I want to attach to it. Then I will likely have to look hard at the cost of the device vs. the cost and frequency of replacing the bulb. And noise may play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a industry-wide comparable measure for luminosity? Does image quality differ wildly these days or is it basically sorted? What else is important? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22400" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="1b5e5c19-7167-4f74-a91d-13429748dfee" CreationDate="2017-04-24T20:05:31.227" UserId="6081" Comment="edited title" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22401" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="6fe6b067-0e1c-44dd-b3fb-a54938543318" CreationDate="2017-04-24T21:05:09.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7273" RevisionGUID="b62acde7-604a-478c-a8fa-36c6e089b469" CreationDate="2017-04-24T21:35:07.943" UserId="241" Text="That's a custom connector, specific to your brand of laptop. It should be possible to pull it off to reveal SATA power and data connectors underneath, which will work with your existing cables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22404" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="32e9a0ef-88bc-45a3-86d5-0e00b159b9e3" CreationDate="2017-04-24T22:09:27.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7274" RevisionGUID="8a66c7a3-de58-4203-b461-f40c35928981" CreationDate="2017-04-25T06:16:03.690" UserId="6011" Text="I have an old power supply with the following characteristics:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;PORSCHE Model: P4-450W, 20+4 pin connectors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently I am assembling a new PC with the following parts:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-6500&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: MSI z170A&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: DDR4 2800-16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is my old power supply enough for my new PC or I should buy a new one? What are the possible effects of using the current old power supply?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22406" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7274" RevisionGUID="8a66c7a3-de58-4203-b461-f40c35928981" CreationDate="2017-04-25T06:16:03.690" UserId="6011" Text="Suitable power supply for my system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22407" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7274" RevisionGUID="8a66c7a3-de58-4203-b461-f40c35928981" CreationDate="2017-04-25T06:16:03.690" UserId="6011" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7275" RevisionGUID="e449172a-21b3-4de9-a7f3-58e662479916" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:26:20.947" UserId="4896" Text="Yes it will be enough... I estimate that your rig will consume 350W under load, in which case you would need a PSU that handles 400-450W to allow for a little headroom. So you have that...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the PSU won't be as efficient as it could be, and it doesn't allow for any growth. Maximum efficiency is usually under 40-70% (depending on PSU model) so yours would usually be in the 70-100% bracket. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you want to make do, your current PSU will suffice. If you want to plan for the future, perhaps invest in a decent 600W+ PSU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7276" RevisionGUID="c14f8331-a79d-4480-b24d-4616a3fc71f5" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:31:59.387" UserId="5164" Text="I am planning a build for machine learning purposes, more specifically, training neural network models for image classification/localization etc, budget is below 2000 euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Provisional build is listed here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Price breakdown by merchant:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($239.99 @&#xD;&#xA;&gt; SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($99.99 @&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Corsair)  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory: Crucial Ballistix 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($63.98 @&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Directron)  &#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory: Crucial Ballistix 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ($63.98 @ Directron) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($169.99&#xD;&#xA;&gt; @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video Card  ($499.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($64.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ATX Power Supply  ($74.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Total: $1277.80&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a few questions in mind:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I have opted for a Xeon CPU without integrated graphics, because I already have a GPU on board. Will that make it difficult for me to install an OS (Ubuntu Linux) on the machine? I am a bit concerned about the &quot;you need to install a driver to display things, but you need to display things in order to install the system to begin with&quot; catch-22. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't need a gaming/fancy motherboard since this is supposed to be just a number cruncher. In fact, I don't even need a keyboard or monitor once the system is setup: I can just ssh into it and execute programs. So can I save a bit money here without compromising performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Does the power supply listed above have enough wattage to support the whole build? What if I want to add more GPUs to it in the future?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Any other suggestions will also be welcome. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22410" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7276" RevisionGUID="c14f8331-a79d-4480-b24d-4616a3fc71f5" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:31:59.387" UserId="5164" Text="Build a introductory level PC for machine learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22411" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7276" RevisionGUID="c14f8331-a79d-4480-b24d-4616a3fc71f5" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:31:59.387" UserId="5164" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7277" RevisionGUID="dcdf67f2-c374-4023-a139-dcfc51b55269" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:36:48.530" UserId="6087" Text="Get yourself a decent power supply from the likes of Seasonic or Corsair. The Corsair RM550x would do just fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have high end components, make sure you have a good power supply. It's important to make sure the PSU supports all the C states from the CPU. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="9499888b-4913-4acc-8d49-682106aee77b" CreationDate="2017-04-25T10:02:58.777" UserId="6086" Text="Want reduce the multiple devices&amp;cables spaghetti on my desk. So, looking for an device with following (as most as possible) specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1-2 port Ethernet ports&#xD;&#xA;- USB HUB (external powered!)&#xD;&#xA;  - USB 3 and one USB-C&#xD;&#xA;- maybe HDMI or DVI&#xD;&#xA;- etc... :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best would be something which I could name as &quot;**motherboard back-panel extender/hub**&quot;, e.g. something like in the following image, but in one compact the desktop device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or as an alternative, something like in the second image, but **also** with at least 1-2  Ethernet ports, and HDMI or DVI port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![desk hub][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/33uVb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMF77.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22414" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="9499888b-4913-4acc-8d49-682106aee77b" CreationDate="2017-04-25T10:02:58.777" UserId="6086" Text="Ethernet switch and usb-hub in one device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22415" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="9499888b-4913-4acc-8d49-682106aee77b" CreationDate="2017-04-25T10:02:58.777" UserId="6086" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7280" RevisionGUID="e48eced3-b280-43d2-8b8c-aca604f31f26" CreationDate="2017-04-25T10:43:14.643" UserId="6088" Text="- Yes, graphics card usually support some low level basic display mode that is supported by most OS installers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- As the motherboard is the interconnect for all components you might not want to spend too little but you certainly don't need WiFi, BT etc.. You need to make the decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It should. You could try to crosscheck with some of the many calculators available from power supply vendors. In addition PCPartPicker gives a rough estimate. As for future additions it would depend on what and how much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Personally I'd use a classic air cooler and your current list is missing case fans." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22418" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7270" RevisionGUID="6a47577f-77fc-42d5-b395-42822c3371a5" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:08:57.617" UserId="4896" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="Like BigElittles, I'm a Plex fan, and my current preferred method for viewing my own videos and photos is Plex-through-Amazon-Firestick. If I had a smart TV (w/web browser), I may have accessed Plex via the web interface - I have Plex running as a service *on my home server*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use Kodi; it's possibly more expandable than Plex, but certainly I think Plex is the more polished of the two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prior to this, I used a Western Digital WDTV box and an AC Ryan Playon HD Mini - both essentially the same thing: a little box that connects to your network, and/or local storage and plugs directly into your TV. Out of the two, I preferred the WDTV box. Most of these devices have a fully functional remote, rather than the simplified remotes that come with the Firestick/Chromecast. Roku 3 is the current offering from the supposed 'market leader'; I don't have any experience of these, but they are well liked and respected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the rise of Plex/Kodi &amp; Firesticks/Chromecast, these Media Players are falling out of favour, so should be fairly cheap to pick up. In fact, I still have both of mine, because the resale value of them is so little.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, unlike Firesticks\Chromecasts and the like, **they don't require a computer/server/NAS** to provide access to your external hard drive. You connect your TV to the media player and your external disk to the media player and you are up and running." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22419" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="63e4d8e5-1b56-4d43-b168-78ce94930cc7" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:29:23.390" UserId="6092" Text="I will to install PS4 games in a USB 2.5 HDD.  Which HDD is better: &#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba Canvio Basics 1TB][1] or [Western Digital Elements 1TB][2]? I'm thinking in speed and durability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.worten.es/productos/informatica/discos-duros/externo/disco-duro-portatil-1-tb-toshiba-canvio-basics-negro-5405533&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.worten.es/productos/informatica/discos-duros/externo/disco-duro-portatil-1-tb-wd-elements-negro-5122440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22420" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="63e4d8e5-1b56-4d43-b168-78ce94930cc7" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:29:23.390" UserId="6092" Text="HDD Toshiba or Western digital for install PS4 games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22421" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="63e4d8e5-1b56-4d43-b168-78ce94930cc7" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:29:23.390" UserId="6092" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22422" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7209" RevisionGUID="af0c9de6-4a01-4658-a5de-5072f1127dcb" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:54:19.093" UserId="6004" Comment="Fix typos" Text="Almost all always-on voice recognition phones are flagship phones. Unfortunately the smaller phones tend to be budget phones, which means they lack the always on voice feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The prices on flagship phones are usually far past the $400 mark but here's a list of recent Android phones that I should have always on voice feature:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**LG V20** (around $700)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.7&quot; LCD screen &#xD;&#xA; - 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 3200 mAH battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Google Pixel** (around $750)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5.0&quot; AMOLED screen&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 2770 mAH battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Moto Z Play][1]/[Moto Z Play Droid][2] (around $400/450)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.5&quot; AMOLED screen&#xD;&#xA; - 3GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 3510 mAH battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So out of all of these, only the Moto Z Play phones are in your ideal price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play-droid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22423" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5838" RevisionGUID="c321c0be-61f9-47aa-8686-c29785877f99" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:41:21.077" UserId="6085" Comment="updated the dead link" Text="I do not know everything there is to know about video signals, but given that your TV probably only takes analog inputs, I'm going to suggest the **[White PC VGA to AV TV RCA S-Video Converter Switch Box Adapter][1]** here. Not only is this cheaper than HDMI alternatives, it has a better chance (in my imperfect opinion) of having less latency, because converting VGA to RCA signal is a totally analog process and so (I'm guessing) much simpler to do. I also like that you can power it from a USB port; a nice bonus feature that makes the whole setup a little less byzantine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are HDMI to VGA/3.5mm converter boxes out there, but the ones I could find mentioned ~1s latency, which I would find unacceptable for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UB3X34235" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22424" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5838" RevisionGUID="c321c0be-61f9-47aa-8686-c29785877f99" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:41:21.077" Comment="Proposed by 6085 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 591" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22425" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6707" RevisionGUID="c12320a9-9f79-42d6-89f3-701c078024fc" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:41:53.473" UserId="4896" Comment="added Kodi link" Text="I would recommend a piece of software called plex media server. With a piece of hardware to attach to your TV. Plex is very responsive on gen 1 amazon firesticks, so 35$ and you are off to the races.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Plex will sort and organize your videos. Along with downloading all of the metadata you'd like. Subtitles, links to trailers, poster art.. you name it..  With the firestick attached to your TV, you use the provided remote and just watch what you want. It won't use your internet, but will use your network to stream the content.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Plex.tv][1] is their website. They will try to upsell you a 5$ per month plan, you don't need it so don't bother signing up for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is the firestick, this one is 39.99 but comes with a voice controlled remote.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note, I'm a plex user and I also HATE how [kodi][3] looks (but YMMV). Welcome to plex my friend, welcome to plex. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.plex.tv/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://kodi.tv/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22426" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6707" RevisionGUID="c12320a9-9f79-42d6-89f3-701c078024fc" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:41:53.473" Comment="Proposed by 4896 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6707" RevisionGUID="e6c04aae-cc0b-4a5f-8e5a-2d029f3e98fc" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:41:53.473" UserId="57" Comment="added Kodi link" Text="I would recommend a piece of software called plex media server. With a piece of hardware to attach to your TV. Plex is very responsive on gen 1 amazon firesticks, so 35$ and you are off to the races.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Plex will sort and organize your videos. Along with downloading all of the metadata you'd like. Subtitles, links to trailers, poster art.. you name it..  With the firestick attached to your TV, you use the provided remote and just watch what you want. It won't use your internet, but will use your network to stream the content.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Plex.tv][1] is their website. They will try to upsell you a 5$ per month plan, you don't need it so don't bother signing up for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is the firestick, this one is 39.99 but comes with a voice controlled remote.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note, I'm a plex user and I also HATE how [kodi][3] looks. Welcome to plex my friend, welcome to plex. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.plex.tv/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://kodi.tv/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22429" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6916" RevisionGUID="37a22624-0cf6-41ea-aff8-fa9f4c07d752" CreationDate="2017-04-26T00:29:05.717" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22430" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7282" RevisionGUID="aacc0ffa-f331-4a23-afc9-373592ca5d72" CreationDate="2017-04-26T00:56:21.930" UserId="6096" Text="I have three specific questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD vs Nvidia: Which company has the most painless graphics drivers? I would prefer to avoid compiling drivers, but if that's required, I will do it.&#xD;&#xA; - Is a GPU necessary for development work? Would a low-end GPU be acceptable, or would it be best to have a mid-range (like an RX480)?&#xD;&#xA; - How's the Ryzen 7 support on Fedora as of now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22431" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7282" RevisionGUID="aacc0ffa-f331-4a23-afc9-373592ca5d72" CreationDate="2017-04-26T00:56:21.930" UserId="6096" Text="GPU and CPU support for Fedora Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22432" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7282" RevisionGUID="aacc0ffa-f331-4a23-afc9-373592ca5d72" CreationDate="2017-04-26T00:56:21.930" UserId="6096" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7284" RevisionGUID="79d287eb-5973-4d57-88c8-449e8d83a9d8" CreationDate="2017-04-26T14:32:03.690" UserId="5926" Text="&#xD;&#xA;1. Enough RAM/processor for multitasking (mainly Office + multitab internet surfing)&#xD;&#xA;2. Preferably Android system&#xD;&#xA;3. supports 3g&#xD;&#xA;4. Budget (up to 300 euros, a little bit more would be fine)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7284" RevisionGUID="79d287eb-5973-4d57-88c8-449e8d83a9d8" CreationDate="2017-04-26T14:32:03.690" UserId="5926" Text="2-in-1 (detachable keyboard) for office work with good multitasking ability" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7284" RevisionGUID="79d287eb-5973-4d57-88c8-449e8d83a9d8" CreationDate="2017-04-26T14:32:03.690" UserId="5926" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22439" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="6517ba67-281f-4add-92ec-69394003e3bb" CreationDate="2017-04-26T14:53:07.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7285" RevisionGUID="46addc2d-691a-4e7f-8fef-bb682c870b34" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:45:39.080" UserId="6028" Text="have a look at the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.targus.com/us/universal-usb-3_0-dv-docking-station-acp70usz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you are looking for port replicator or docking station. It is useful for laptops/tablets but for fixed PC the cable ties/velcro is better option. And probably a box to put the cables in ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7286" RevisionGUID="9395c532-7bd5-4e3c-a6b4-93767b837d78" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:58:10.460" UserId="6100" Text="My Product owner recently purchased a 2 drive externa docking station, and I'm trying to do mirroring dual backup over 1 USB, and was wondering if I can do mirroring with http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001756 and how I can do it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22442" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7286" RevisionGUID="9395c532-7bd5-4e3c-a6b4-93767b837d78" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:58:10.460" UserId="6100" Text="I'm trying to enable disk mirroring on a Thermaltake blacX duet, but it won't recognize the mirroring" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22443" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7286" RevisionGUID="9395c532-7bd5-4e3c-a6b4-93767b837d78" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:58:10.460" UserId="6100" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7287" RevisionGUID="5cf6b7f6-425b-4e4b-bf90-5fbb1f68552d" CreationDate="2017-04-26T19:19:47.157" UserId="6100" Text="They look identical with different manufacturers only. If you found the RPM differences I could tell you a little bit more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22445" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="239a5d93-c5f1-4b11-9757-882c9be06ff4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T19:59:18.723" UserId="6100" Comment="question edit" Text="Disclaimer: This is not a question about which projector to buy, as this kind of question is usually not useful on SE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may buy my first projector soon. It will be used primarily for streaming HD videos/movies in a living room, from diverse sources (laptop, BD player, other boxes). It will be mounted to the ceiling (normal middle european height - 220-230cm or so), the maximum area to be filled by the image is about 3m wide, but it is not necessary to actually use that up fully, I believe. Sitting distance is about 3-4m away. It will be used during the day and the night. Obviously I accept a very limited viewing experience during the day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the important technical points I need to look at when deciding between different models? Obviously it needs the correct inputs for whatever players I want to attach to it. Then I will likely have to look hard at the cost of the device vs. the cost and frequency of replacing the bulb. And noise may play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a industry-wide comparable measure for luminosity? Does image quality differ wildly these days or is it basically sorted? What else is important? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22446" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="239a5d93-c5f1-4b11-9757-882c9be06ff4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T19:59:18.723" UserId="6100" Comment="question edit" Text="What should keep in mind while researching a projector to purchase?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22447" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="239a5d93-c5f1-4b11-9757-882c9be06ff4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T19:59:18.723" Comment="Proposed by 6100 approved by 6081 edit id of 592" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22448" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="981a2417-2b45-421a-9904-fd37d6da84f8" CreationDate="2017-04-26T21:54:39.987" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22450" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7286" RevisionGUID="92f36f3d-b050-4154-9267-a9a3bffb636f" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:27:12.063" UserId="155" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:155,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Adam&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7288" RevisionGUID="9c5a3160-1c2f-4462-95d8-d8712d4b9196" CreationDate="2017-04-27T08:30:51.267" UserId="352" Text="I got a small drone that is controllable over wifi - the drone acts as accesspoint, an app on the phone connects to it over the phone's wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And expectably, the drone's AP is short range, the phone's built-in wifi antenna is crap, and as result the drone's range is crap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could either get a smartphone with exquisite wifi range, or *some kind of extender*. Or maybe some ultra-light-weight antenna to attach to the drone (currently the &quot;antenna&quot; is some 4cm of soft wire sticking out the back.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22452" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7288" RevisionGUID="9c5a3160-1c2f-4462-95d8-d8712d4b9196" CreationDate="2017-04-27T08:30:51.267" UserId="352" Text="How to get best wifi range out of a smartphone in a portable way?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22453" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7288" RevisionGUID="9c5a3160-1c2f-4462-95d8-d8712d4b9196" CreationDate="2017-04-27T08:30:51.267" UserId="352" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7289" RevisionGUID="74f2c839-e69b-487b-a869-634975dcb2b1" CreationDate="2017-04-27T09:38:12.577" UserId="6087" Text="If possible, try to not hold the smartphone between your hands. That also blocks some of the signal. Otherwise you could try to mount external antennas to your drone if you could reach the antenna connectors on the PCB. Do know that adding antennas to the drone might result in less stability. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7290" RevisionGUID="2d926560-ec93-492c-a83c-2096e36c45a4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T09:59:17.793" UserId="6087" Text="You could try the http://shop.lenovo.com/be/nl/smartphones/lenovo/lenovo-p2/ Lenovo P2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Great phone with great battery life and not draining the bank.. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7291" RevisionGUID="18d7879d-c9d8-467d-97e0-e5d8d3f7902d" CreationDate="2017-04-27T10:29:02.810" UserId="6087" Text="They both look identical. Neither give information on the drive used in the enclosure. You might want to have an external drive that's either 1: has a drive with 7200RPM or an SSD for even more speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.toshiba.eu/hard-drives/portable/canvio-basics/hdtb310ek3aa/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.wdc.com/products/portable-storage/wd-elements-portable.html#WDBUZG0010BBK-NESN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have the money: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T3-Portable-SSD-MU-PT1T0B/dp/B01AVF6UO8. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22457" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7271" RevisionGUID="42b6bad4-360f-4df1-b5de-bf1053a48170" CreationDate="2017-04-27T11:50:38.507" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22458" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7282" RevisionGUID="4e59dcae-2e53-4d36-b495-7e28c4c1f696" CreationDate="2017-04-27T11:50:52.037" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7292" RevisionGUID="cd48ef98-d950-46b5-b0fd-733b080deecf" CreationDate="2017-04-27T17:32:14.550" UserId="6106" Text="It cold support it but i would recommend to give your PC headroom and getting something like 550W or 650w, most of those power supplies cost around 90-120 dollars." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="b4145b3c-46a9-431e-8287-dacfe5bd2afe" CreationDate="2017-04-27T17:48:23.107" UserId="6105" Text="I want a budget FullHD monitor. The primary use is for office stuff (reading, email, ssh connections, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to have a HDMI input and some audio output in case i end using it as monitor i can reuse it for a basic multimedia use (watching movies).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A main concern is &quot;eye care&quot; since i will spend too much time in front of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the following two options, both from LG, both are on the same price range but have different specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1st option (LG-22MT48DF) - http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-22MT48DF-PZ**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pros:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    (TV and Monitor): which means more multimedia options&#xD;&#xA;    IPS: better image quality&#xD;&#xA;    Fliker safe&#xD;&#xA;    Eye comfort mode&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Cons: &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Response time: 14ms&#xD;&#xA;    Contrast: 1000:1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2nd Option (LG-24M38H) - http://www.lg.com/in/monitors/lg-24M38H**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pros:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Response Time: 5ms&#xD;&#xA;    Contrast: 5000000:1&#xD;&#xA;    A little bigger&#xD;&#xA;    Fliker safe&#xD;&#xA;    Eye comfort mode&#xD;&#xA;    Little bigger&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Cons:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Less multimedia options &#xD;&#xA;    TN display (less quality from different view angles)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering to go for the first option for the extra multimedia capacity. However, i'm concerned about Response time: 14ms and Contrast: 1000:1 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that both are Flicker Safe and have Eye Comfort Mode but, What would be the best option to not hurt my eyes?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other recommendation on budget FullHD HDMI monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22461" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="b4145b3c-46a9-431e-8287-dacfe5bd2afe" CreationDate="2017-04-27T17:48:23.107" UserId="6105" Text="Looking for a budget monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22462" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="b4145b3c-46a9-431e-8287-dacfe5bd2afe" CreationDate="2017-04-27T17:48:23.107" UserId="6105" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7294" RevisionGUID="57b00f6a-9c56-4bc0-8638-cab491d101fe" CreationDate="2017-04-27T20:10:13.447" UserId="241" Text="Of the two you're looking at, I recommend the LG-22MT48DF.  It has audio output where the LG-24M38H doesn't, and the better color and viewing angle of the IPS display will greatly improve your movie-watching experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;None of the uses you mention requires a fast response time.  Movies generally are played at 24 frames per second or 30 FPS, so any response time faster than about 30 ms is sufficient.  Office use is even less demanding of fast response time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Contrast ratio is essentially meaningless.  It's a measure of the ratio between the darkest color the monitor can produce and the brightest -- but what really matters for appearance is the &quot;black point&quot;: *how* dark that dark color is.  IPS panels generally have a brighter black point than TN panels, but I haven't found it to make a difference in practice: they're both fairly bad.  Monitor manufacturers get high contrast ratios by boosting the bright end of things to eye-searingly bright levels.  Once you've turned the brightness down from its marketing level to something comfortable, the real contrast ratio is much lower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can tell, &quot;flicker safe&quot; is a meaningless marketing term.  LCD panels are inherently flicker free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Blue-reduction settings such as &quot;Eye Comfort Mode&quot; are nice to have after dark (I use a software version called &quot;redshift&quot;), but during the day, you'll probably want to turn it off so the monitor's colors better match daylight.  There's nothing inherently harmful about blue light, it's just that blue light after dark causes problems with your sleep patterns." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7295" RevisionGUID="d0265d8b-1a2e-4369-ba04-4d3ff0935b43" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:16:14.963" UserId="6094" Text="For eye care, I would go with option 2.  Because it has better response time and contrast. For fast action, like sports and action/sci fy movies, you do not want to deal with lag. When watching video, I am mostly concerned with these.  For extra inputs, you can simply get an HDMI splitter or go to an aux port.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just my opinion.  Love to hear what others say." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7296" RevisionGUID="b2b39145-059c-41fc-b5fb-46cf8c9479bd" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:30:43.020" UserId="6094" Text="We have an industrial based solution for this.  Our SMS-530 is a SMS Alarm controller.  It works on ATT's 3 G network. It has 10 DI and 2 DO.  You can send SMS messages to the controller to control as well as monitor for Door and windows opening for security purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SMS Alarm Controller][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.icpdas-usa.com/sms_530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7298" RevisionGUID="2341ae05-8e14-4593-a20a-4f42015e0646" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:40:24.010" UserId="6079" Text="I need to find an ARM development board that can be powered with a 5V or 12V PSU. It also must have USB 3 host and USB 3 OTG. It should also have a MicroSD slot and more RAM is a good thing, but I will be happy with 1GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, it should be as small as possible, but that's not very important for a prototype. Something similar to the ODROID-XU3 Lite would be great for a prototype, but it's gone out of production and newer versions doesn't have USB3 OTG. http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G141351880955&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22468" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7298" RevisionGUID="2341ae05-8e14-4593-a20a-4f42015e0646" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:40:24.010" UserId="6079" Text="5V or 12V ARM board with USB3 host + USB3 OTG?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22469" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7298" RevisionGUID="2341ae05-8e14-4593-a20a-4f42015e0646" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:40:24.010" UserId="6079" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7299" RevisionGUID="68f5fa15-e10e-4a72-b552-6d2502edc12a" CreationDate="2017-04-28T00:44:21.757" UserId="6079" Text="I have a couple of Linksys devices that enables SIP-calling from normal analog phones. There's numerous software that supports these protocols, so you can easily combine it with a tablet, PC, smart phone, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, you'll still need the SIP VoIP provider, but the devices works well and they're quite cheap. I found several on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Linksys-VoIP-Home-Phone-Adapters/99269/bn_354182/i.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the SPA2102, which has two phone ports. I've been very happy with it. I also have two single-port ones, but I don't remember what they're named. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="16675d10-21d3-41e5-a580-a54e782b4d30" CreationDate="2017-04-28T00:54:07.900" UserId="4065" Text="I'm running 3 servers and not sure who makes good quality KVM switches. A recommendation for a cheap 4 port KVM switch would really help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an old home-use KVM already but it works by disconnecting/reconnecting the USB hub as it switches, so the servers are constantly redetecting and reconnecting (console spam and slowness!) and keyboard connectivity is very poorly handled. I've looked up full DDM switches but they start around £250 which I can't justify. Is there anything in between? I've tried to understand the classes of KVM switch but it's still confusing which kind I'm actually after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of connection, the devices are pretty simple: standard wired USB keyboard, standard wired USB mouse, and a monitor at the moment 1280 x 1024 but ideally up to 1920x1200 &quot;just in case&quot; I upgrade it. I can handle VGA/DSUB monitor connectivity but if it doesn't cost too much more I'd like to know of a digital alternative - DVI or displayport. The format is less important but I'd prefer desktop to rackmount, smaller is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd ideally like to handle rebooting multiple machines together so I don't have to wait 3 minutes to reboot one then the next, but if video magic or DDC/EDID emulation (or whatever's needed to do that) will add a lot to the cost, then it's not essential. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As long as it handles simple video correctly - I won't be using multiple monitors or swapping monitors in use, although I might need to briefly disconnect/reconnect the monitor I'm using now and then. Even a little latency isn't a problem. The only crucial factor is that good keyboard handling when switching between servers is important.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, it's mostly about price. I'm happy buying secondhand if I knew what to look for, but I suspect this is one of those product types where you only find how well it works if you know who makes them well, or after you buy....." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22472" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="16675d10-21d3-41e5-a580-a54e782b4d30" CreationDate="2017-04-28T00:54:07.900" UserId="4065" Text="Cheap 4 port KVM switch with emulated (or better) keyboard + mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22473" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="16675d10-21d3-41e5-a580-a54e782b4d30" CreationDate="2017-04-28T00:54:07.900" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22474" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="6fc2a9f0-4bff-491a-9dcc-9bc093a2b1fd" CreationDate="2017-04-28T02:29:31.173" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22480" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7290" RevisionGUID="2209ef10-a699-46db-b0a6-42b61b0b1383" CreationDate="2017-04-28T08:49:23.977" UserId="203" Comment="Formatted link" Text="You could try the [Lenovo P2](http://shop.lenovo.com/be/nl/smartphones/lenovo/lenovo-p2/). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Great phone with great battery life and not draining the bank.. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7301" RevisionGUID="1570cad3-ca11-4c60-823b-e518310dac52" CreationDate="2017-04-28T10:15:11.880" UserId="6107" Text="I heard the TV white space (Radio) is unallocated frequency given to broadcasting services. been reading about the superwifi using this frequency and thought how one can use it for personal use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Q1:** My question is, if i wanted to send data from one computer to another using white space which equipments can i use to transfer data, can existing tv receivers and transmitters be used or what are the best devices to use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22482" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7301" RevisionGUID="1570cad3-ca11-4c60-823b-e518310dac52" CreationDate="2017-04-28T10:15:11.880" UserId="6107" Text="TV white space transmitters and receivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22483" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7301" RevisionGUID="1570cad3-ca11-4c60-823b-e518310dac52" CreationDate="2017-04-28T10:15:11.880" UserId="6107" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22484" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7302" RevisionGUID="b3bdba60-76af-4c9e-b4eb-e38ffba414cc" CreationDate="2017-04-28T12:26:45.070" UserId="6108" Text="I'm a little unsure what board to buy here. The Banana Pi M3 seems to have a faster CPU, with eight cores compared to a quad core on the Asus tinker board. I haven't been able to find a comparison between the two performance wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone point me in the right direction or maybe even tell the difference if you happen to have both boards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22485" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7302" RevisionGUID="b3bdba60-76af-4c9e-b4eb-e38ffba414cc" CreationDate="2017-04-28T12:26:45.070" UserId="6108" Text="Banana Pi M3 vs Asus Tinker Board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22486" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7302" RevisionGUID="b3bdba60-76af-4c9e-b4eb-e38ffba414cc" CreationDate="2017-04-28T12:26:45.070" UserId="6108" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22487" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="c61912b2-f473-4a2f-bf26-b9d5b8db30a3" CreationDate="2017-04-28T14:50:32.967" UserId="6105" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="I want a budget FullHD monitor. The primary use is for office stuff (reading, email, ssh connections, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want it to have a HDMI input and some audio output in case i end using it as monitor i can reuse it for a basic multimedia use (watching movies).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A main concern is &quot;eye care&quot; since i will spend too much time in front of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the following two options, both from LG, both are on the same price range but have different specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1st option (LG-22MT48DF) - http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-22MT48DF-PZ**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pros:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    (TV and Monitor): which means more multimedia options&#xD;&#xA;    IPS: better image quality&#xD;&#xA;    Fliker safe&#xD;&#xA;    Eye comfort mode&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Cons: &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Response time: 14ms&#xD;&#xA;    Contrast: 1000:1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2nd Option (LG-24M38H) - http://www.lg.com/in/monitors/lg-24M38H**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pros:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Response Time: 5ms&#xD;&#xA;    Contrast: 5000000:1&#xD;&#xA;    A little bigger&#xD;&#xA;    Fliker safe&#xD;&#xA;    Eye comfort mode&#xD;&#xA;    Little bigger&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Cons:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Less multimedia options &#xD;&#xA;    TN display (less quality from different view angles)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT: A New Competitor comes into play!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3rd Option (ASUS VP228H)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Pros:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Response Time: 1ms GTG&#xD;&#xA;    Contrast: 100,000,000:1&#xD;&#xA;    Flicker Free&#xD;&#xA;    Blue Light Filter&#xD;&#xA;    Built in speakers&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Cons:&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Thicker&#xD;&#xA;    LCD not LED&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering to go for the first option for the extra multimedia capacity. However, i'm concerned about Response time: 14ms and Contrast: 1000:1 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that both are Flicker Safe and have Eye Comfort Mode but, What would be the best option to not hurt my eyes?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other recommendation on budget FullHD HDMI monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm now seriously considering the Asus Option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22488" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7303" RevisionGUID="df7efb30-d1e6-4bc9-adf1-1c7db5239650" CreationDate="2017-04-28T16:36:45.530" UserId="1055" Text="I'm looking for an Android TV box recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;I found this one: [TV Box Sunvell T95Z Plus](http://www.gearbest.com/tv-box-mini-pc/pp_443590.html) but the last review I saw was from January and I don't know if there is anything better than Sunvell T95Z Plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The characteristics of the TV box would be pretty much what this one has: **Android+HDMI+WIFI**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you all in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22489" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7303" RevisionGUID="df7efb30-d1e6-4bc9-adf1-1c7db5239650" CreationDate="2017-04-28T16:36:45.530" UserId="1055" Text="Android TV box like Sunvell T95Z" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22490" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7303" RevisionGUID="df7efb30-d1e6-4bc9-adf1-1c7db5239650" CreationDate="2017-04-28T16:36:45.530" UserId="1055" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="85150907-4ab6-4829-8c3a-649601d49f7c" CreationDate="2017-04-28T21:20:22.797" UserId="5445" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later running on iOS 9 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March but is available for pre-order now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The shipping date for the Occipital Bridge has been moved to April 28.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 2: The shipping date has now been moved to Mid-May." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7125" RevisionGUID="f1dcb8b4-7d17-4cc0-b265-dfc446fe7161" CreationDate="2017-04-29T00:33:24.027" UserId="5445" Comment="edited body" Text="FreedomPop is an MVNO cell phone service that offers a free cell phone plan with 200 minutes, 500 texts, and 500 MB worth of data.  (And you can set it up so it cuts off once you reach the limit, rather than getting hit with overage fees.)  So if you buy a mobile hotspot from them, like [this one](https://shop.freedompop.com/product/used-netgear-fuse-4g-lte-mobile-hotspot-cdma/NTG-AC779SR) for $30,  you have a device that entitles you to 500 MB per month of free data for life (or more realistically until they go out of business).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, do any other cell phone services sell mobile hotspots that entitle you to free monthly data forever?  The only other MVNO cell phone service I know of that has a free cell phone plan is [CellNuvo](https://cellnuvo.com/), but they don't sell mobile hotspots, only cell phones, and their cheapest cell phone is $40 with a $29 activation fee.  (There was another MVNO with a great free cell phone plan called RingPlus, but they recently went out of business.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I don't really have a budget, but of course the cheaper the better, and the more free data per month the better.  As I said above, FreedomPop offers a device that costs $30 and gives 500 MB per month, so preferably I want something that's better than that in or of both of those dimensions.  Also, I live in New Jersey, so that's going to be the main place I use it in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22498" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7053" RevisionGUID="5f97f902-f46f-4c66-bbf8-9a0f022d4fde" CreationDate="2017-04-29T04:04:03.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22499" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7304" RevisionGUID="a3d31a7c-d4ca-43eb-a216-2b1af6bd9778" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:03:24.397" UserId="6112" Text="I have two speakers with 8 ohms 91dz and 100w rms (250w max). How much watt and ohms will my amplifier need? I lack basic understanding of electronics and therefore need advise on the minimal requirements an amplifier needs to not destroy my speakers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22500" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7304" RevisionGUID="a3d31a7c-d4ca-43eb-a216-2b1af6bd9778" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:03:24.397" UserId="6112" Text="What are the minimal requirements for my speakers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22501" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7304" RevisionGUID="a3d31a7c-d4ca-43eb-a216-2b1af6bd9778" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:03:24.397" UserId="6112" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7305" RevisionGUID="469a339e-3b7f-47da-ba23-7d0f93bde65c" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:26:24.400" UserId="6113" Text="I'm shopping for a new PC for school, and I'm really looking at tablet 2-in-1's. I want to have an active stylus to take notes on in class, and I've found a really good tablet from Acer (Aspire Switch Alpha 12, if you're interested), but I've heard that the pen is sub-par.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that many 2-in-1 makers (like Dell, HP, Lenovo, Acer, etc) use the same general technology to make their active pens work, but does anyone know if you could actually use a pen from a different OEM than the one you got your tablet from?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, this is kind of a broad question, so I just want to know if anyone has had success doing it at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22503" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7305" RevisionGUID="469a339e-3b7f-47da-ba23-7d0f93bde65c" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:26:24.400" UserId="6113" Text="Are active styluses (for tablets) generally compatible across OEMs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22504" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7305" RevisionGUID="469a339e-3b7f-47da-ba23-7d0f93bde65c" CreationDate="2017-04-29T12:26:24.400" UserId="6113" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7306" RevisionGUID="e357ab6d-31f2-400f-85ed-1ae7e63e252e" CreationDate="2017-04-29T13:06:48.860" UserId="6114" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard for a pfSense-based firewall with low power consumption (about 10 watts) and 3 LAN ports. Looking for a solution I found these motherboards: Alix 2d13 and Apu2c4 but I'm more inclined to apu2c4 because it should have gigabit LAN ports. What's the best for you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know other motherboards that meet my requirements please propose them as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22506" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7306" RevisionGUID="e357ab6d-31f2-400f-85ed-1ae7e63e252e" CreationDate="2017-04-29T13:06:48.860" UserId="6114" Text="Advice for low power consumption motherboard for pfSense firewall with almost 3 lan (Alix 2d13, Apu2c4 or others)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22507" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7306" RevisionGUID="e357ab6d-31f2-400f-85ed-1ae7e63e252e" CreationDate="2017-04-29T13:06:48.860" UserId="6114" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;&lt;pfsense&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7307" RevisionGUID="fc181efa-bd89-4a6a-84ac-7ce84aa8aacb" CreationDate="2017-04-30T01:24:07.850" UserId="6047" Text="8 ohms is nothing, you don't need an amplifier for that. The power supplied with a mobile phone is enough to drive your headphones. You'll blow out your eardrums with an amp. (250 ohm headphones and I'd reccomend an amp, but you could still get away without using one at that level)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7307" RevisionGUID="a6f58b74-82cb-47d2-9425-3a47c2a34acf" CreationDate="2017-04-30T07:22:54.117" UserId="6047" Comment="added 434 characters in body" Text="8 ohms is nothing, you don't need an amplifier for that. The power supplied with a mobile phone is enough to drive your headphones. You'll blow out your eardrums with an amp. (250 ohm headphones and I'd recommend an amp, but you could still get away without using one at that level)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you still insist on getting an amplifier for your headphones, you can get really any amplifier. Just make sure you don't go and max out the gain (I wouldn't turn that up too much anyway because it can end up amplifying a signal enough to hear some of that annoying white noise). Again, The decibels required to actually wreck your headphones will wreck your ears before you destroy your headphones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22511" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7309" RevisionGUID="339f39eb-efdb-49c9-9b00-e379cf90a033" CreationDate="2017-04-30T08:23:50.547" UserId="6116" Text="I need to buy a new HDD for my private data storage (photographs I take mostly)&#xD;&#xA;Please recommend me what brand / model is less likely to fail/break.&#xD;&#xA;I don't care for performance, I care for **reliability**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've got several HDDs in recent yeards, mostly Seagate and one Samsung, and all of them had serious problems.&#xD;&#xA;The current one I was using (1.5TB Seagate) is dying (makes clicking sound when running and became very slow) so I need to make a backup ASAP." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22512" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7309" RevisionGUID="339f39eb-efdb-49c9-9b00-e379cf90a033" CreationDate="2017-04-30T08:23:50.547" UserId="6116" Text="What reliable HDD to buy for private data archive, 1.5 - 2TB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22513" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7309" RevisionGUID="339f39eb-efdb-49c9-9b00-e379cf90a033" CreationDate="2017-04-30T08:23:50.547" UserId="6116" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22514" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7036" RevisionGUID="87b1c191-f4e2-49d9-8e29-ca93ee847442" CreationDate="2017-04-30T15:38:15.490" UserId="5445" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Currently if you try to buy a &quot;wireless charging&quot; product to charge your phone, you'll mostly come across products based on the Wireless Power Consortium's [Qi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qi_(standard)).  These products involve placing your phone on an inductive charging pad, which is hardly what the average person thinks of when they hear the phrase &quot;wireless power.&quot;  It's only &quot;wireless&quot; in the sense that it does involve wires, not wireless in the sense of not requiring contact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, are there any long-distance wireless charging products, i.e. products which allow your phone to charge when it's in your hand and not in physical contact with the power transmitter?  So far I've come across two products which are releasing in the next year:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Energous' [Far Field WattUp Transmitter](http://energous.com/technology/transmitters/#farfield), which has a range of 15 feet and is releasing in the first half of 2018&#xD;&#xA;- [Motherbox](https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-motherbox-true-wireless-charging-power-phone--2), which has a range of 20 inches and is releasing in September 2017&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But are there any products which are available right now, or at least coming sooner than those two products?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="15a415c3-745b-46ce-8a87-adb435388f9a" CreationDate="2017-04-30T17:43:25.040" UserId="6118" Text="My home machine is an HP Envy 700 desktop, i7-4770, Intel 4600 integrated graphics.  I use it for the usual: email, youtube, Excel plus programming &amp; web development with Visual Studio. I'm not a gamer.  It has integrated graphics for VGA and HDMI outputs. I have an older NEC AccuSync 22&quot; monitor connected to it with a max resolution of 1680x1050.  My work laptop is also an HP, with a VGA and HDMI output.  At work, I have a docking station and two monitors with 1920 x 1080 resolution. When I bring home my laptop, I have an ancient IOMega KVM cable that enables me to connect the laptop to my home monitor, KB, and mouse.  But at home the laptop has to drop back to the lower resolution of my home monitor.  My goal is to get a new video card for my home machine so I can connect two 1920 x 1080 monitors to it, plus a KVM switch so I can plug in my work laptop and use two monitors.  Can you recommend a video card, KVM switch, and monitor setup that will work well? My budget is below $400. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="15a415c3-745b-46ce-8a87-adb435388f9a" CreationDate="2017-04-30T17:43:25.040" UserId="6118" Text="New video card for dual monitors + KVM for laptop &amp; desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="15a415c3-745b-46ce-8a87-adb435388f9a" CreationDate="2017-04-30T17:43:25.040" UserId="6118" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="09ffd82a-6513-47cb-b4b4-dc829b408d54" CreationDate="2017-04-30T23:39:40.703" UserId="6118" Comment="My desktop has DVI, not HDMI output." Text="My home machine is an HP Envy 700 desktop, i7-4770, Intel 4600 integrated graphics.  I use it for the usual: email, youtube, Excel plus programming &amp; web development with Visual Studio. I'm not a gamer.  It has integrated graphics for VGA and DVI outputs. I have an older NEC AccuSync 22&quot; monitor connected to it with a max resolution of 1680x1050.  My work laptop is also an HP, with a VGA and HDMI output.  At work, I have a docking station and two monitors with 1920 x 1080 resolution. When I bring home my laptop, I have an ancient IOMega KVM cable that enables me to connect the laptop to my home monitor, KB, and mouse.  But at home the laptop has to drop back to the lower resolution of my home monitor.  My goal is to get a new video card for my home machine so I can connect two 1920 x 1080 monitors to it, plus a KVM switch so I can plug in my work laptop and use two monitors.  Can you recommend a video card, KVM switch, and monitor setup that will work well? My budget is below $400. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7312" RevisionGUID="1b7fcde2-3dc7-4375-b5aa-86be294f8b4b" CreationDate="2017-05-01T06:00:53.037" UserId="6121" Text="I would like to have 6TB of RAID1 for CCTV footage. Instead of buying 2 6TB WD Purple drives + RAID enclosure, I was wondering if I can just get a MyBook Duo (which has 2 WD Red drives in it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the WD Red hard drives die significantly faster if I use them for storing CCTV footage 24/7?&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth spending the extra money+time to get 2 WD Purples + a RAID enclosure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22523" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7312" RevisionGUID="1b7fcde2-3dc7-4375-b5aa-86be294f8b4b" CreationDate="2017-05-01T06:00:53.037" UserId="6121" Text="How significant is the difference between Western DIgital Red and Purple for CCTV footage?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22524" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7312" RevisionGUID="1b7fcde2-3dc7-4375-b5aa-86be294f8b4b" CreationDate="2017-05-01T06:00:53.037" UserId="6121" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22528" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="ac4a225c-e132-417f-99c8-afc5e3d2353f" CreationDate="2017-05-01T10:01:13.843" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22530" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7312" RevisionGUID="880f8071-3d57-4c87-9b79-0e6c5f348c72" CreationDate="2017-05-01T18:01:18.547" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="886d2a04-85ec-4865-af83-8638d5bf9b33" CreationDate="2017-05-01T19:54:50.440" UserId="5445" Text="I have a complicated Home theater system with a TV, a cable box, a Blu-Ray player, an AV receiver, a 3D adapter, an HDMI switcher, and an Intel Compute Stick.  Over the years, I've controlled this system with various Logitech Harmony universal remotes.  They've gotten better over the years; my first one was controlled by buttons, then they introduced touch screens, and now my latest one comes with a Harmony hub which bounces infrared light off of walls and it comes with an iPhone app you can use if you don't have the remote handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's one complaint I've had about all the Logitech Harmony devices I owned: when the remote fails to turn on everything properly, you to have to use a &quot;Help&quot; feature where you specify what devices are still not on and what devices are not set to the right input.  So my question is, are there any universal remotes that automatically detect what devices are on or off, saving you from the hassle of using the Help feature?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should definitely be possible to check the state of various devices.  After all, I used to have a Google TV Blu-Ray player which plugged into your cable of and access data from it.  Are there any Universal Remote systems that plug into your various devices, or somehow wirelessly ping your devices to see if they're on, and maybe even what input they're set at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22532" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="886d2a04-85ec-4865-af83-8638d5bf9b33" CreationDate="2017-05-01T19:54:50.440" UserId="5445" Text="A Universal Remote that detects what devices are On or Off" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22533" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="886d2a04-85ec-4865-af83-8638d5bf9b33" CreationDate="2017-05-01T19:54:50.440" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22534" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7315" RevisionGUID="ad9bf264-ad8d-4f66-ae67-db67f7982a61" CreationDate="2017-05-02T00:30:32.347" UserId="5445" Text="There are currently three main tiers of VR headsets on the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At the low end, there are Google Cardboard-style headsets, made out of either cardboard or plastic that you can get for as low as a dollar.  They work with essentially all smartphones, but they only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  And they don't have a VR operating system, so you have to first navigate to the VR app you want and then put the headset on.&#xD;&#xA;- There are medium-tier devices, specifically the Samsung Gear VR headset and the Google Daydream View headset, that you can get for about $100.  They too only feature rotational tracking, and they're limited to one specific smartphone, but they have a whole built-in VR operating system you can explore VR apps within.&#xD;&#xA;- At the high-end, there are headsets like the Oculus Rift and HTC Vivek, that generally cost $1000 or more once you take into account the price of the gaming PC you have to tether the headset to.  They feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, what is the cheapest VR headset you can buy that has positional tracking?  I want the cost to take into account the price of e gaming PC if you need one to use it.  But if it's smartphone-based, there's no need to take into account the price of the smartphone.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the cheapest one I've found is the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com), which is $400, only works with iPhones, and does not require a gaming PC.  It's available for pre-order know and ships in mid-May.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also the Acer headset which will release by the end of the year, and which is supposed to cost only $300.   And then there are the inside-out VR headsets under development listed in the end of my question [here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/6709/5445).  But does anyone know the cheapest product that's available right now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22535" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7315" RevisionGUID="ad9bf264-ad8d-4f66-ae67-db67f7982a61" CreationDate="2017-05-02T00:30:32.347" UserId="5445" Text="Cheapest positional tracking VR headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22536" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7315" RevisionGUID="ad9bf264-ad8d-4f66-ae67-db67f7982a61" CreationDate="2017-05-02T00:30:32.347" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7316" RevisionGUID="f189637f-4ecb-4557-b56f-df0663177219" CreationDate="2017-05-02T01:28:39.990" UserId="1921" Text="Honestly,  I would recommend an SSD.&#xD;&#xA;A samsung 840/850 or whatever.&#xD;&#xA;You can get them in 2tb size, they are currently a bit expensive, but very reliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have no moving parts to fail.  No heads, motors, or platters because of this they can even handle significant drops with no effect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have significantly more spare sectors, and way better error management than hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beyond that they are screaming fast, and use much less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ssd][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820147371&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating Temperature&#xD;&#xA;    0°C ~ +70°C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Operating Humidity&#xD;&#xA;    5% to 95%, non-condensing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIUMc.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7317" RevisionGUID="6678b335-35fd-4c67-af06-713d06d424a3" CreationDate="2017-05-02T02:31:00.000" UserId="1921" Text="To the best of my knowledge TV remotes use 1 way infra-red signals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Remote systems that plug into your various devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.pulse-eight.com/p/104/usb-hdmi-cec-adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea how many you would need, but you could plug up to 4 into a $35 raspberry pi directly, or more than that with a powered USB hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  or somehow wirelessly ping your devices to see if they're on, and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; maybe even what input they're set at?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The raspberry Pi 3 has built-in wifi and bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might have to do some programming or find someone else who has already done it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is some addition info I googled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://blog.endpoint.com/2012/11/using-cec-client-to-control-hdmi-devices.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    $ echo 'standby 0' | cec-client -s /dev/ttyACM0&#xD;&#xA;    $ echo 'on 0' | cec-client -s /dev/ttyACM0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you had enough of these devices so that all your devices were visible you could control them all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;List all detectable devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    cec-client -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could probably even write scripts so if one device turns on the other devices turn on.  The only downside is you have to DIY some of this.  &#xD;&#xA;Maybe you can find someone else who has already done it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CEC has many aliases see list below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Samsung - Anynet+&#xD;&#xA;    Sony - BRAVIA Link or BRAVIA Sync&#xD;&#xA;    LG - SimpLink&#xD;&#xA;    Sharp - Aquos Link&#xD;&#xA;    Vizio- CEC&#xD;&#xA;    Hitachi - HDMI-CEC&#xD;&#xA;    AOC - E-link&#xD;&#xA;    Pioneer - Kuro Link&#xD;&#xA;    Toshiba - Regza Link or CE-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Onkyo - RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI)&#xD;&#xA;    Panasonic - VIERA Link or HDAVI Control or EZ-Sync&#xD;&#xA;    Philips - EasyLink&#xD;&#xA;    Mitsubishi - NetCommand for HDMI&#xD;&#xA;    Runco International - RuncoLink&#xD;&#xA;    Insignia - InLink&#xD;&#xA;    JVC - CEC&#xD;&#xA;    Magnavox - Fun-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Sylvania - Fun-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Sansui - EasyConnect&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22539" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7317" RevisionGUID="e3a7dda1-55f2-47e7-bdd1-6e45b95990f2" CreationDate="2017-05-02T02:49:26.040" UserId="1921" Comment="added 109 characters in body" Text="To the best of my knowledge TV remotes use 1 way infra-red signals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Remote systems that plug into your various devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.pulse-eight.com/p/104/usb-hdmi-cec-adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no idea how many you would need, but you could plug up to 4 into a $35 raspberry pi directly, or more than that with a powered USB hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  or somehow wirelessly ping your devices to see if they're on, and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; maybe even what input they're set at?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The raspberry Pi 3 has built-in wifi and bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might have to do some programming or find someone else who has already done it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is some addition info I googled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://blog.endpoint.com/2012/11/using-cec-client-to-control-hdmi-devices.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    $ echo 'standby 0' | cec-client -s /dev/ttyACM0&#xD;&#xA;    $ echo 'on 0' | cec-client -s /dev/ttyACM0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you had enough of these devices so that all your devices were visible you could control them all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;List all detectable devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    cec-client -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could probably even write scripts so if one device turns on the other devices turn on.  The only downside is you have to DIY some of this.  &#xD;&#xA;Maybe you can find someone else who has already done it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CEC has many aliases see list below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Samsung - Anynet+&#xD;&#xA;    Sony - BRAVIA Link or BRAVIA Sync&#xD;&#xA;    LG - SimpLink&#xD;&#xA;    Sharp - Aquos Link&#xD;&#xA;    Vizio- CEC&#xD;&#xA;    Hitachi - HDMI-CEC&#xD;&#xA;    AOC - E-link&#xD;&#xA;    Pioneer - Kuro Link&#xD;&#xA;    Toshiba - Regza Link or CE-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Onkyo - RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI)&#xD;&#xA;    Panasonic - VIERA Link or HDAVI Control or EZ-Sync&#xD;&#xA;    Philips - EasyLink&#xD;&#xA;    Mitsubishi - NetCommand for HDMI&#xD;&#xA;    Runco International - RuncoLink&#xD;&#xA;    Insignia - InLink&#xD;&#xA;    JVC - CEC&#xD;&#xA;    Magnavox - Fun-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Sylvania - Fun-Link&#xD;&#xA;    Sansui - EasyConnect&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of dozens of options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22541" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="47b720a1-c901-45e9-b163-ba38604b67de" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:30:10.327" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22543" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7309" RevisionGUID="84789058-0a53-4801-8d18-38ad92714f37" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:31:19.483" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7319" RevisionGUID="fb846e39-c720-4d64-b607-d07b24fcb0da" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:36:37.017" UserId="6127" Text="I am looking for a small case with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware that should fit in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP, Sockel 1155, ATX &#xD;&#xA; - Gigabiyte Radeon HD 7950&#xD;&#xA; - 4 HDD + 1 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - be quiet! Pure Power L7 530&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following features of the case:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - got swappable HDDs (SSD is not a must)&#xD;&#xA; - as small as possible&#xD;&#xA; - maybe RGB Support&#xD;&#xA; - 2-3 USB at the front&#xD;&#xA; - Noise reduction&#xD;&#xA; - good airflow&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no budget limitations so please give me every recommendation you have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7319" RevisionGUID="fb846e39-c720-4d64-b607-d07b24fcb0da" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:36:37.017" UserId="6127" Text="Small Case for full size graphics card + swappable hdd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7319" RevisionGUID="fb846e39-c720-4d64-b607-d07b24fcb0da" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:36:37.017" UserId="6127" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7320" RevisionGUID="82b6c653-12a6-4a7a-a400-22abc1c255e7" CreationDate="2017-05-02T14:38:26.107" UserId="6130" Text="My wife is a classical musician and is tired of managing stacks of music scores on paper. She would like an electronic device that she could place on the stand at the piano or organ and have it display the score. She says there are Bluetooth pedal devices to flip pages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Music scores are typically PDF files intended for an A4 page. We do have an old 9.7 inch 3:4 device (with Android 4.something) but the screen is somewhat too small for comfortable reading of A4 scores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen A4 flat devices with pens, intended for artists, but they are quite expensive. Ditto Microsoft Surface. And we don't really need anything powerful, it is just for displaying PDF files. But while there are cheap 15.4 inch laptops, there is no room for the laptop keyboard on the typical stand, and besides, the screen needs to be turned into portrait orientation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any flat devices that would be near a4 size and cheap? We don't even strictly need it to have touch capabilities. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22548" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7320" RevisionGUID="82b6c653-12a6-4a7a-a400-22abc1c255e7" CreationDate="2017-05-02T14:38:26.107" UserId="6130" Text="Inexpensive flat device with A4 or similar screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22549" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7320" RevisionGUID="82b6c653-12a6-4a7a-a400-22abc1c255e7" CreationDate="2017-05-02T14:38:26.107" UserId="6130" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22550" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7315" RevisionGUID="531772db-5955-4d88-8dfa-6fd98da728f7" CreationDate="2017-05-02T14:45:24.377" UserId="5445" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="There are currently three main tiers of virtual reality headsets on the market:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At the low end, there are Google Cardboard-style headsets, made out of either cardboard or plastic that you can get for as low as a dollar.  They work with essentially all smartphones, but they only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  And they don't have a VR operating system, so you have to first navigate to the VR app you want and then put the headset on.&#xD;&#xA;- There are medium-tier devices, specifically the Samsung Gear VR headset and the Google Daydream View headset, that you can get for about $100.  They too only feature rotational tracking, and they're limited to one specific smartphone, but they have a whole built-in VR operating system you can explore VR apps within.&#xD;&#xA;- At the high-end, there are headsets like the Oculus Rift and HTC Vivek, that generally cost $1000 or more once you take into account the price of the gaming PC you have to tether the headset to.  They feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, what is the cheapest VR headset you can buy that has positional tracking?  I want the cost to take into account the price of e gaming PC if you need one to use it.  But if it's smartphone-based, there's no need to take into account the price of the smartphone.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the cheapest one I've found is the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com), which is $400, only works with iPhones, and does not require a gaming PC.  It's available for pre-order know and ships in mid-May.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also the Acer headset which will release by the end of the year, and which is supposed to cost only $300.   And then there are the inside-out VR headsets under development listed in the end of my question [here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/6709/5445).  But does anyone know the cheapest product that's available right now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7321" RevisionGUID="c89c8598-4003-44f7-a28d-030742c264fa" CreationDate="2017-05-02T16:57:24.203" UserId="4043" Text="Preface&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;This answer is likely more expensive than necessary for a dedicated device. You may also be interested in looking into wireless displays that connect to your existing laptop/desktop and have the bluetooth pedals control that directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2-in-1 Laptop&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can only speak of personal experience with one device in the 2-in-1 class which is closer to the $600 price point but there are cheaper models and you can always check for used. I really like my [Dell Inspiron 7-series][1] (7xxx model number depending on specs). It's 15.6 inch but there are 13.3'' models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a stylus with in-body storage&#xD;&#xA; - Decent I/O depending on your needs (hdmi + DP out, only USB3(A))&#xD;&#xA; - Decent display (1080)&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Great all-metal build quality for the price&#xD;&#xA; - Not much bloatware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can get one used or refurb for around $400 you're in looking at nearly 1/2 of what a new low/mid-spec Surface device would cost you (great machines though) and have all the benefits with two major drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Form factor - Surface wins here hands-down, but that likely isn't important if the plan is to basically never touch it&#xD;&#xA; - Pen input - the Surface pen implementation is awesome. I have a Surface for work and the pen gets a lot of usage from me as a non-creative professional. It's clipped to my shirt right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-15-5578-2-in-1-laptop/pd?s=bsd&amp;oc=cai155nw10p7b013&amp;dgc=ST&amp;cid=308988&amp;lid=5841084&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;ven1=sn35g9vzc&amp;ven2=,&amp;ven3=813803856721223381" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22552" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7321" RevisionGUID="40fb77f4-2ace-45a9-bc21-7475270941b8" CreationDate="2017-05-02T18:10:19.633" UserId="4043" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="Preface&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;This answer is likely more expensive than necessary for a dedicated device. You may also be interested in looking into wireless displays that connect to your existing laptop/desktop and have the bluetooth pedals control that directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2-in-1 Laptop&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can only speak of personal experience with one device in the 2-in-1 class which is closer to the $600 price point but there are cheaper models and you can always check for used. I really like my [Dell Inspiron 7-series][1] (7xxx model number depending on specs). It's 15.6 inch but there are 13.3'' models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a stylus with in-body storage&#xD;&#xA; - Decent I/O depending on your needs (hdmi + DP out, no USB-C)&#xD;&#xA; - Decent display (1080)&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Great all-metal build quality for the price&#xD;&#xA; - Not much bloatware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can get one used or refurb for around $400 you're in looking at nearly 1/2 of what a new low/mid-spec Surface device would cost you (great machines though) and have all the benefits with two major drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Form factor - Surface wins here hands-down, but that likely isn't important if the plan is to basically never touch it&#xD;&#xA; - Pen input - the Surface pen implementation is awesome. I have a Surface for work and the pen gets a lot of usage from me as a non-creative professional. It's clipped to my shirt right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-15-5578-2-in-1-laptop/pd?s=bsd&amp;oc=cai155nw10p7b013&amp;dgc=ST&amp;cid=308988&amp;lid=5841084&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;ven1=sn35g9vzc&amp;ven2=,&amp;ven3=813803856721223381" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22553" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7321" RevisionGUID="c7d569e9-2d66-4f08-9956-65a65514a046" CreationDate="2017-05-02T20:36:34.680" UserId="4043" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="Preface&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;This answer is likely more expensive than necessary for a dedicated device, but I'd see it as a justified purchase if you happen to also be in the market for a very usable and well built laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may also be interested in looking into wireless displays that connect to your existing laptop/desktop and have the bluetooth pedals control that directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2-in-1 Laptop&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can only speak of personal experience with one device in the 2-in-1 class which is closer to the $600 price point but there are cheaper models and you can always check for used. I really like my [Dell Inspiron 7-series][1] (7xxx model number depending on specs). It's 15.6 inch but there are 13.3'' models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a stylus with in-body storage&#xD;&#xA; - Decent I/O depending on your needs (hdmi + DP out, no USB-C)&#xD;&#xA; - Decent display (1080)&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Great all-metal build quality for the price&#xD;&#xA; - Not much bloatware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can get one used or refurb for around $400 you're in looking at nearly 1/2 of what a new low/mid-spec Surface device would cost you (great machines though) and have all the benefits with two major drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Form factor - Surface wins here hands-down, but that likely isn't important if the plan is to basically never touch it&#xD;&#xA; - Pen input - the Surface pen implementation is awesome. I have a Surface for work and the pen gets a lot of usage from me as a non-creative professional. It's clipped to my shirt right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-15-5578-2-in-1-laptop/pd?s=bsd&amp;oc=cai155nw10p7b013&amp;dgc=ST&amp;cid=308988&amp;lid=5841084&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;ven1=sn35g9vzc&amp;ven2=,&amp;ven3=813803856721223381" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="27defa3d-e644-4674-8897-f7ba2e16c980" CreationDate="2017-05-03T01:40:08.560" UserId="6118" Comment="Was ordered to edit and remove all background information." Text="I'm looking for a non-gaming video card with two HDMI or displayport outputs and a KVM that has inputs to connect 2 computers via USB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22555" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7310" RevisionGUID="27defa3d-e644-4674-8897-f7ba2e16c980" CreationDate="2017-05-03T01:40:08.560" UserId="6118" Comment="Was ordered to edit and remove all background information." Text="Non-gaming video card and KVM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22556" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="4310a20d-7f13-4a93-b75e-9184744d02c8" CreationDate="2017-05-03T03:12:44.410" UserId="5445" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I have a complicated Home theater system with a TV, a cable box, a Blu-Ray player, an AV receiver, a 3D adapter, an HDMI switcher, and an Intel Compute Stick.  Over the years, I've controlled this system with various Logitech Harmony universal remotes.  They've gotten better over the years; my first one was controlled by buttons, then they introduced touch screens, and now my latest one comes with a Harmony hub which bounces infrared light off of walls and it comes with an iPhone app you can use if you don't have the remote handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's one complaint I've had about all the Logitech Harmony devices I owned: when the remote fails to turn on everything properly, you to have to use a &quot;Help&quot; feature where you specify what devices are still not on and what devices are not set to the right input.  So my question is, are there any universal remotes that automatically detect what devices are on or off, fixing those problems automatically to save you from the hassle of using the Help feature?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should definitely be possible to check the state of various devices.  After all, I used to have a Google TV Blu-Ray player which plugged into your cable of and access data from it.  Are there any Universal Remote systems that plug into your various devices, or somehow wirelessly ping your devices to see if they're on, and maybe even what input they're set at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7322" RevisionGUID="fb7341ef-c6fe-4f79-9b1c-197284ba5f14" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:09:15.947" UserId="3745" Text="I am looking for a home weather station that can work as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Cordless**: gets its power from battery + integrated solar panel&#xD;&#xA; - **Wireless communication interface**: for retrieving and storing historical data from a computer/server. If power provided by battery or solar panel I'm assuming this won't be WIFI since it's too energy intensive, so maybe Bluetooth?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is to install it on my roof to measure wind speed and sun exposure for a year in order to calculate potential Return On Investment if I were to install a wind turbine or solar panels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked on Amazon and there are zillions out there, any recommendations to help me get started would be great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22558" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7322" RevisionGUID="fb7341ef-c6fe-4f79-9b1c-197284ba5f14" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:09:15.947" UserId="3745" Text="Home Weather Station" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22559" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7322" RevisionGUID="fb7341ef-c6fe-4f79-9b1c-197284ba5f14" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:09:15.947" UserId="3745" Text="&lt;solar-power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22560" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="fc6ba819-10de-4265-83df-088dca591a59" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:56:39.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22561" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="f4139c1f-7faf-4fd3-933d-6f8e8ee06492" CreationDate="2017-05-03T13:56:50.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7323" RevisionGUID="60dad06f-b253-4dfe-a506-ba5f0079ffbc" CreationDate="2017-05-04T01:53:32.230" UserId="6057" Text="I ended up getting an Asus Zenwatch 2, as it has a mic and a speaker, and can record audio on the watch, without a phone nearby." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22563" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7323" RevisionGUID="47906b8e-1ca4-4bb6-80fe-66e079d62a3d" CreationDate="2017-05-04T02:44:22.413" UserId="6057" Comment="added 225 characters in body" Text="I ended up getting an Asus Zenwatch 2, as it has a mic and a speaker, and can record audio on the watch, without a phone nearby.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The app I'm using so far is [Watch Recorder with Mic Zoom](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tamalbasak.watchrecorder), which lets you record and playback multiple audio files on the watch without a phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7324" RevisionGUID="3b0e9d1f-b501-4f17-977e-4c61797a76c5" CreationDate="2017-05-04T04:43:34.433" UserId="4832" Text="I have a Peachtree Audio DAC, and a sonos Connect Amp. I went with the Peachtree Audio to have the benefits of the 'warmer' effects on my digital media. And I went with the Sono Connect Amp to be able to connect to my NAS or stream directly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question is what is the best configuration for my amps (if any)? Or is there another hardware item I can buy to make the puzzle pieces fit?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I got the Connect Amp, I had played my digital media over USB connected to my DAC. But now with the Connect, if I have a network cable running from my NAS to the Sonos Connect Amp, will my DAC ever get a chance to play its part? I'm guessing no? I'm a little confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My complete system is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DAC: Peachtree Audio Nova&#xD;&#xA; - AMP: Sonos Connect Amp&#xD;&#xA; - Speakers: Bose 901 (don't ask why haha)&#xD;&#xA; - SW: Sunfire SDS 12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7324" RevisionGUID="3b0e9d1f-b501-4f17-977e-4c61797a76c5" CreationDate="2017-05-04T04:43:34.433" UserId="4832" Text="Integrated Amp Configuration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7324" RevisionGUID="3b0e9d1f-b501-4f17-977e-4c61797a76c5" CreationDate="2017-05-04T04:43:34.433" UserId="4832" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7325" RevisionGUID="22af4706-a9e6-4586-8768-2ca02db350d3" CreationDate="2017-05-04T12:16:15.027" UserId="6143" Text="I am trying to find a reliable motherboard with 2 ethernet ports that can each handle at least a 1 Gbit/s, that supports a 6 or 8 core CPU (I was looking at [these][1] cpu-s). I found it extremely hard to search for motherboards with 2 ethernet ports as this is seemingly not an issue for most people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope someone can help me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/family/79318/Intel-High-End-Desktop-Processors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7325" RevisionGUID="22af4706-a9e6-4586-8768-2ca02db350d3" CreationDate="2017-05-04T12:16:15.027" UserId="6143" Text="desktop computer with 2 ethernet ports and 6 or 8 cores" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7325" RevisionGUID="22af4706-a9e6-4586-8768-2ca02db350d3" CreationDate="2017-05-04T12:16:15.027" UserId="6143" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22576" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="c6b2c522-ac86-473b-aef9-e278f85986d0" CreationDate="2017-05-04T20:43:35.993" UserId="5445" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I'm interested in buying the cheapest possible 3D printer that is user-friendly.  That is, I don't want to have to do any assembly or trouble-shooting.  If possible I just want to set it up, download the design, and click print, without having to know technical details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the three cheapest 3D printers I've found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [da Vinci Nano](https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/03/the-da-vinci-nano-is-a-full-fledged-3d-printer-for-230/), which is $230.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [Monoprice Select Mini](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;cp_id=10724&amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;p_id=15365&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2), which is $199.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Reprap](http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide), which is an open-source self-replicating 3D printer, and which is in a variety of models and prices, the cheapest usually being in the $150-$165 range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of the three, I think Reprap is probably the least user friendly; it involves a kit that you have to assemble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which product is recommended for me? I'm looking for one that is safe, and preferably one that works with an iPhone instead of requiring me to use a computer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7258" RevisionGUID="c2aa02e9-0eda-4bc1-818d-acfb3dab95fd" CreationDate="2017-05-05T11:46:05.393" UserId="6057" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a smartwatch, that can record and playback audio, without a phone, as I don't have one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###I'd also prefer that it&#xD;&#xA;- have an app store, development kit available, e.g. ios, android wear, or tizen make sense&#xD;&#xA;- &lt; $200&#xD;&#xA;- vibration support&#xD;&#xA;- speaker&#xD;&#xA;- microphone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I find so many of these watches want you to have a phone - e.g. the Pebble Time.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7330" RevisionGUID="f6d9d21c-f774-4729-9e6a-8890bfdefaa8" CreationDate="2017-05-05T13:40:50.487" UserId="6151" Text="I've just started working as a GIS technician in a land agency firm. I'm handling large datasets such as historic house sales (~500,000 rows of data per year) and executing heavy duty operations, sub-sequentially putting pressure on the hardware I've been given to work on. Currently I'm concentrating on 2D visualisation of data but anticipate 3D will come into play further down the line. I'm using QGIS running at version 2.18.5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've shared a shapefile which I'm using to test/benchmark the laptop and PC I'm using. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0e4wyp13mwbb85d/Benchmark%20Test.zip?dl=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The operation I'm executing with this shapefile is an 'inverse' fixed distance buffer. Both PC and Laptop choke at 95% if distance is left at '-1000' and segments left at '5' (the projection I'm using is EPSG '27700'). At 2 hours into the algorithium, there was no movement after 95% although it took &lt;5 mins to get to 95%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the most demanding task I've setup in QGIS which is why I'm using it as a benchmark test. If the buffer is increased to '-100' the laptop and PC both manage it in good time (min:sec). It would be interesting to hear how your rigs compare to these times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plan is to get some more powerful hardware so can you make any suggestions and/or comparisons?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Laptop**: *Time: 5:50*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10, 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6500U CPU @ 2.50GHz 2601Mhz, 2 cores, 4 logical processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Installed Physical Memory 8.00 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Available Physical Memory 7.89 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available Physical Memory 3.74 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Virtual Memory 17.8 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available Virtual Memory 12.7 GB GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Radeon R7 M370 Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PC**: *Time: 4:30*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7, 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU E3-1225 v5 @ 3.30GHz, 3301 Mhz, 4 cores, 4 logical processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Installed Physical Memory 8.00 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Available Physical Memory 7.89 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available Physical Memory 3.85 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Virtual Memory 15.8 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available Virtual Memory 11.7 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(On-board) Intel HD Graphics P530 Graphics Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7330" RevisionGUID="f6d9d21c-f774-4729-9e6a-8890bfdefaa8" CreationDate="2017-05-05T13:40:50.487" UserId="6151" Text="PC Benchmarking for QGIS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7330" RevisionGUID="f6d9d21c-f774-4729-9e6a-8890bfdefaa8" CreationDate="2017-05-05T13:40:50.487" UserId="6151" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22589" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="30ecc8e3-ddcd-4ba8-bad6-4e240111c91a" CreationDate="2017-05-05T16:03:51.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7334" RevisionGUID="490ade8d-b604-4a60-88b8-ed2e2300d521" CreationDate="2017-05-06T09:18:26.450" UserId="5043" Text="The router will take signals out of my ISP router on the second floor and &quot;repeat&quot; the signals to every body on the first floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using 2 router now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is xiaomi router&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another is TP-LINK 196108&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The former is doing fine. I am using it right now. However, when I tried to run some mining algorithm suddenly the internet broke. The connection between the router to the ISP router becomes &quot;bad&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And it's always happening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I look on the web and I found that I have to find routers with high receiver sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a bunch of choices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29619&amp;sid=59386f455c37988c6ea0f5f209ca8bec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;says I should go for&#xD;&#xA;802.11ac router instead of 802.11n? That seems to do more with speed instead of range. 802.11ac seems to have even less range than 802.11n&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is in how well the router deal with my ISP router on the second floor. It seems that the transmission of data across all devices on the same first floor is fine. All devices at my home can easily access my first floor router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just that when too many devices connect to the same router, then connections start becoming problematic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically I need a router on first floor that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Have high receiver sensitivity so it can detect and communicate with my ISP router on second floor&#xD;&#xA; 2. Have strong power too. I am sure it also has to transmit data to my ISP router on second floor.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Optional: Have dual connections. So can connect 802.11ac and 802.11 n. My xiaomi wireless is like that. So I can connect to both. If not, many of my devices won't be able to access it[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ime1i.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually what I really need is more of a &quot;booster&quot;. I am not sure if signals from ISP routers are using 2.4 ghz frequency or 5ghz frequency. How do I find out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also wants to measure signal strength of my ISP booster so I can get better number. Any way how should I do so?  That way I can ask for -80 db signal sensitivity rather than &quot;high&quot; signal sensitivity receiver." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22602" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7334" RevisionGUID="490ade8d-b604-4a60-88b8-ed2e2300d521" CreationDate="2017-05-06T09:18:26.450" UserId="5043" Text="Router with high receiver sensitivity?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22603" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7334" RevisionGUID="490ade8d-b604-4a60-88b8-ed2e2300d521" CreationDate="2017-05-06T09:18:26.450" UserId="5043" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7330" RevisionGUID="1bb640e5-56d4-46e9-b95d-1a8eda2cac08" CreationDate="2017-05-06T18:03:25.223" UserId="6151" Comment="added 400 characters in body" Text="I've just started working as a GIS technician in a land agency firm. I'm handling large datasets such as historic house sales (~500,000 rows of data per year) and executing heavy duty operations, sub-sequentially putting pressure on a laptop and PC which I've been given to work on. Currently I'm concentrating on 2D visualisation of data but anticipate 3D will come into play further down the line. I'm using QGIS running at version 2.18.5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Laptop:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10, 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6500U CPU @ 2.50GHz 2601Mhz, 2 cores, 4 logical processors&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Installed Physical Memory 8.00 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Total Available Physical Memory 7.89 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Available Physical Memory 3.74 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Total Virtual Memory 17.8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Available Virtual Memory 12.7 GB GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    AMD Radeon R7 M370 Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PC:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 7, 64 bit&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU E3-1225 v5 @ 3.30GHz, 3301 Mhz, 4 cores, 4 logical processors&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Installed Physical Memory 8.00 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Total Available Physical Memory 7.89 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Available Physical Memory 3.85 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Total Virtual Memory 15.8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Available Virtual Memory 11.7 GB&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    (On-board) Intel HD Graphics P530 Graphics Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've created a stress test with the following shapefile, (EPSG '27700') operating an 'inverse' distance buffer on it (conduct at your own choosing): https://www.dropbox.com/s/0e4wyp13mwbb85d/Benchmark%20Test.zip?dl=0&#xD;&#xA;The shapefile shows all the planning local authorities in the UK, the boundaries of which are made up with many vertices. The test with 'shrink' the polygon features due to a negative buffer setting. The algorithm is the most demanding I've come across hence I've set it up to be my benchmark test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both PC and Laptop choke at 95% if distance is set at '-1000' and segments left at '5'. At 2 hours into the algorithium, there was no progress beyond 95% although it took &lt;5 mins to get to 95%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the buffer is increased to '-100' the laptop and PC both manage it in good time (min:sec).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Laptop:** *Time: 5:50*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PC:**  *Time: 4:30* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The company is planning to get some more powerful hardware for me. The test is purely meant as a comparison and to gain some perspective. If you are running shorter times, or have a good perception for what PC components make QGIS tick faster please let me know. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22612" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="b363d5b9-a174-4ad5-a129-b6b38302135d" CreationDate="2017-05-06T20:34:59.893" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7339" RevisionGUID="84b83e5d-df00-4948-9418-ecd65975e908" CreationDate="2017-05-07T05:07:08.317" UserId="6157" Text="If I googled best Linux laptops in 2017 I came up with a list like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition &#xD;&#xA; - System76 Galago Pro&#xD;&#xA; - Purism Librem 13&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What use cases (except video editing, virtualbox, gaming) will break performance of a cheep alternative laptop like Acer Chromebook 15 CB5-571-C1DZ? What are your experience, when you need a upper class laptop in your daily life? Or can we say everything becomes faster on a laptop in the list above against Acer Chromebook 15, regardless which Applications you will run." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22620" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7339" RevisionGUID="84b83e5d-df00-4948-9418-ecd65975e908" CreationDate="2017-05-07T05:07:08.317" UserId="6157" Text="Recommendations for Linux Laptop 2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22621" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7339" RevisionGUID="84b83e5d-df00-4948-9418-ecd65975e908" CreationDate="2017-05-07T05:07:08.317" UserId="6157" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6914" RevisionGUID="d23f6ae7-e46c-4f41-8555-4292a8e12fe1" CreationDate="2017-05-07T05:09:45.963" UserId="5445" Comment="added 625 characters in body" Text="Up until the late 90's, it was relatively common for people to put portable TV's in their cars.  These were handheld devices that allowed you to watch over-the-air (OTA) television signals for free, akin to pocket radios.  Now the technology in our lives has advanced dramatically in the past 20 years, but this is one respect where we seem to have gone backward; almost no one has a portable TV anymore.  Portable TV's do still exist though, for instance [this one](https://www.amazon.com/RCA-T227-Portable-Widescreen-Detachable/dp/B01GK9I4Q6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487807336&amp;sr=1-1) is available for $60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, what products are there to turn an iPhone into a portable TV?  So far the best thing I've found is [this digital antenna](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjJreGV86TSAhVFWn4KHeLwAlQYABAGGgJwYw&amp;ohost=www.google.com&amp;cid=CAASJORom2Np_KHfRojCoI4CQgYF7BZGvBd98TeUAgWKIu4RraIyiQ&amp;sig=AOD64_0H63XZdW4OJAJ6N2bQtbJYqXrgmg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjVp96V86TSAhWov1QKHaGeDgEQwg8IHA&amp;adurl=) for $40, which creates a private Wifi network that iPhones and other devices can connect to to watch OTA TV signals.  But it has no customer reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I want something cheap and small that plugs into the iPhone and does not need to be charged separately.  If it helps, I have an iPhone 7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I just found out that buying this kind of product is dependent the country you live in and its transmission standard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in America, so the $40 product I linked to wouldn't walk as it's based on DVB/T and ISDB-T standards.  The only product I can find which is based on ATSC is [this product](https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Mobile-Digital-Black-iPhone/dp/B00AGV7T6Q), which appears to have been discontinued but is available used..  So does anyone know any other products which both work with iPhones and support ATSC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CG85e.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7340" RevisionGUID="be916c2e-7082-4d12-ba89-2927127d23c1" CreationDate="2017-05-07T06:10:46.497" UserId="6162" Text="I have acer e5 473g and yesterday its fell from my bed and after the laptop fell the laptop went off&#xA;&#xA;And after i turn it on again the laptop stuck at acer logo didnt reach windows10 loading circle and it made a weird noise:&#xA;&#xA;[Noise][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Unidi92-VAbXp5QnlGLXdZTjg/view?usp=drivesdk&#xA;&#xA;Whats wrong and can its still be fixed? Sorry if im asking at the wrong place... thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7340" RevisionGUID="be916c2e-7082-4d12-ba89-2927127d23c1" CreationDate="2017-05-07T06:10:46.497" UserId="6162" Text="Weird noise from laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7340" RevisionGUID="be916c2e-7082-4d12-ba89-2927127d23c1" CreationDate="2017-05-07T06:10:46.497" UserId="6162" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7341" RevisionGUID="2cf8de4e-9606-48cf-9331-f734fcbfc54f" CreationDate="2017-05-07T07:11:26.987" UserId="6163" Text="We need to purchase a new Router for our company (More than 70 user in one building) the required specification is: Load Balancing, 2 ADSL lines support, 3G Support as a backup plan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best router model for our buisness?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Than you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22627" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7341" RevisionGUID="2cf8de4e-9606-48cf-9331-f734fcbfc54f" CreationDate="2017-05-07T07:11:26.987" UserId="6163" Text="Suitable Router for +70 User" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22628" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7341" RevisionGUID="2cf8de4e-9606-48cf-9331-f734fcbfc54f" CreationDate="2017-05-07T07:11:26.987" UserId="6163" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7343" RevisionGUID="3484ef94-d4c8-4c49-88ed-b4615bb55ebd" CreationDate="2017-05-07T13:12:36.137" UserId="1329" Text="According to the [product page][1] the Chromebook has a Celeron 3205U Dual Core clocked at 1.5 GHz. The other machines in your list ([1][2], [2][3], [3][4]) start with Intel Core i5 processors of the 6th or 7th generation usually clocked about one GHz higher featuring Hyper Threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cnet [says][5] the Chromebook has M.2 storage, which is better than the typical non-upgradeable and typically slower eMMC found in many other Chromebooks. It would be nice if the RAM was upgradeable too, 4 GB are not shabby but not plenty either. I'd rate the slow processor as a deal breaker though because I had a similar Celeron stutter at 1080p video playback (on a smaller screen so scaling was also involved). So the comparably big screen may not be useful at all. You may argue that you are not the kind of person watching 1080p videos on such a device and I'd mostly agree, but if the processor is already under high load in this scenario and most of the time struggling to keep up with running a non-ChromeOS OS (like just opening XFCE's or Gnome's resource monitor) then I wouldn't want to wait for it to get it's work done when I actually need to be productive. Also these are usually passive cooled devices, which may overheat and crash or just throttle down even more (to get no work done at all!?). Core m processors (soon to be rebranded as Core i3) are a bit better, but they also have unusual CPU spikes when just scrolling through a website in Chromium, which I haven't noticed on mobile or desktop Core i5 processors. For a device of this size a 3270 mAh battery is a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend buying a non-USB-PD charging Chromebook, all the newer ones come with USB Type-C as per Google's new requirements (it's said to be a huge advantage in educational institutions to only have one charging connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: CB5-571/AURON_YUNA supports Coreboot UEFI payloads (not dual-booting ChromeOS this way though), but [not all][6] Chromebooks do, you'd have to use the legacy boot slot to boot an after market Linux distro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding my experience, I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A Lenovo N22 with a very similar Celeron, 2 GB of RAM and slow 32 GB of eMMC mass storage. It has very good battery life due to the low power processor that can get about 20 hours out the 4500 mAh battery on the lowest brightness setting. But I don't use it very much due to it's underpowered processor, rather clunky, non-convertible form factor and because of …&#xD;&#xA;- A ASUS C302 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core m3 processor, 4 GB of RAM, comparably fast 64 GB of eMMC. Battery life is a bit worse due to the beefier processor and only 3900 mAh which results in 8 to 12 hours on lower brightness settings, which is okay because of the good screen. It also has USB Type-C charging, so I just need to pack one (bigger) charger for phone and laptop if I decide I'm going to need it. It's a very slim and sturdy convertible device for media consumption.&#xD;&#xA;- A Thinkpad T560 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core i5 processor, 16 GB of RAM, 1 TB midrange SSD, built in battery plus a small and a large replaceable battery, but no USB Type-C charging. I pull this one out of the bag whenever I decided that it's worth to carry around so much weight (it is most of the time). It's not as clunky as older devices like a T530 (which recently received Coreboot support if I didn't get it wrong) but in some crowded situations I left the 15&quot; in the bag and used the smaller ASUS instead, which has – hard to deny – become my daily driver, even though I prefer additional performance of the beefier machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** I'd stay away from Celeron powered Chromebooks if you cannot live inside tmux or other specific, very trimmed down setups (GalliumOS is already very nice). A cheap small Chromebook as a non-primary device may be okay, but consider saving the money and buying a better equipped device for double the price. Such premium convertible Chromebooks with touchscreens and backlit keyboards are rare, hard to get and even more pricier at the moment here in Germany, but honestly save your money or go for the pricier Ultrabooks/Laptops while we wait for more competitive devices. I found [Chrome Unboxed][7] to be an interesting read on this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MUNAA.014&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://system76.com/laptops/galago&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://puri.sm/products/librem-13/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www3.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-4th-Gen/p/22TP2TXX14G&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-chromebook-15/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://chromeunboxed.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22634" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7343" RevisionGUID="f6d4a92c-e3a7-4eb6-8404-0bf1f05097dd" CreationDate="2017-05-07T13:30:31.433" UserId="1329" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="According to the [product page][1] the Chromebook has a Celeron 3205U Dual Core clocked at 1.5 GHz. The other machines in your list ([1][2], [2][3], [3][4]) start with Intel Core i5 processors of the 6th or 7th generation usually clocked about one GHz higher featuring Hyper Threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cnet [says][5] the Chromebook has M.2 storage, which is better than the typical non-upgradeable and typically slower eMMC found in many other Chromebooks. It would be nice if the RAM was upgradeable too, 4 GB are not shabby but not plenty either. I'd rate the slow processor as a deal breaker though because I had a similar Celeron stutter at 1080p video playback (on a smaller screen so scaling was also involved). So the comparably big screen may not be useful at all. You may argue that you are not the kind of person watching 1080p videos on such a device and I'd mostly agree, but if the processor is already under high load in this scenario and most of the time struggling to keep up with running a non-ChromeOS OS (like just opening XFCE's or Gnome's resource monitor) then I wouldn't want to wait for it to get its work done when I actually need to be productive. Also these are usually passive cooled devices, which may overheat and crash or just throttle down even more (to get no work done at all!?). Core m processors (soon to be rebranded as Core i3) are a bit better, but they also have unusual CPU spikes when just scrolling through a website in Chromium, which I haven't noticed on mobile or desktop Core i5 processors. For a device of this size a 3270 mAh battery is a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend buying a non-USB-PD charging Chromebook, all the newer ones come with USB Type-C as per Google's new requirements (it's said to be a huge advantage in educational institutions to only have one charging connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: CB5-571/AURON_YUNA supports Coreboot UEFI payloads (not dual-booting ChromeOS this way though), but [not all][6] Chromebooks do, you'd have to use the legacy boot slot to boot an after market Linux distro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding my experience, I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A Lenovo N22 with a very similar Celeron, 2 GB of RAM and slow 32 GB of eMMC mass storage. It has very good battery life due to the low power processor that can get about 20 hours out the 4500 mAh battery on the lowest brightness setting. But I don't use it very much due to its underpowered processor, rather clunky, non-convertible form factor and because of …&#xD;&#xA;- A ASUS C302 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core m3 processor, 4 GB of RAM, comparably fast 64 GB of eMMC. Battery life is a bit worse due to the beefier processor and only 3900 mAh which results in 8 to 12 hours on lower brightness settings, which is okay because of the good screen. It also has USB Type-C charging, so I just need to pack one (bigger) charger for phone and laptop if I decide I'm going to need it. It's a very slim and sturdy convertible device for media consumption.&#xD;&#xA;- A Thinkpad T560 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core i5 processor, 16 GB of RAM, 1 TB midrange SSD, built in battery plus a small and a large replaceable battery, but no USB Type-C charging. I pull this one out of the bag whenever I decided that it's worth to carry around so much weight (it is most of the time). It's not as clunky as older devices like a T530 (which recently received Coreboot support if I didn't get it wrong) but in some crowded situations I left the 15&quot; in the bag and used the smaller ASUS instead, which has – hard to deny – become my daily driver, even though I prefer additional performance of the beefier machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** I'd stay away from Celeron powered Chromebooks if you cannot live inside tmux or other specific, very trimmed down setups (GalliumOS is already very nice). A cheap small Chromebook as a non-primary device may be okay, but consider saving the money and buying a better equipped device for double the price. Such premium convertible Chromebooks with touchscreens and backlit keyboards are rare, hard to get and even more pricier at the moment here in Germany, but honestly save your money or go for the pricier Ultrabooks/Laptops while we wait for more competitive devices. I found [Chrome Unboxed][7] to be an interesting read on this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MUNAA.014&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://system76.com/laptops/galago&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://puri.sm/products/librem-13/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www3.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-4th-Gen/p/22TP2TXX14G&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-chromebook-15/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://chromeunboxed.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22635" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7343" RevisionGUID="f6eb4ce6-87b1-466e-bf78-e29afccc3932" CreationDate="2017-05-07T13:46:24.930" UserId="1329" Comment="added 489 characters in body" Text="According to the [product page][1] the Chromebook has a Celeron 3205U Dual Core clocked at 1.5 GHz. The other machines in your list ([1][2], [2][3], [3][4]) start with Intel Core i5 processors of the 6th or 7th generation usually clocked about one GHz higher featuring Hyper Threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cnet [says][5] the Chromebook has M.2 storage, which is better than the typical non-upgradeable and typically slower eMMC found in many other Chromebooks. It would be nice if the RAM was upgradeable too, 4 GB are not shabby but not plenty either. I'd rate the slow processor as a deal breaker though because I had a similar Celeron stutter at 1080p video playback (on a smaller screen so scaling was also involved). So the comparably big screen may not be useful at all. You may argue that you are not the kind of person watching 1080p videos on such a device and I'd mostly agree, but if the processor is already under high load in this scenario and most of the time struggling to keep up with running a non-ChromeOS OS (like just opening XFCE's or Gnome's resource monitor) then I wouldn't want to wait for it to get its work done when I actually need to be productive. Also these are usually passive cooled devices, which may overheat and crash or just throttle down even more (to get no work done at all!?). Core m processors (soon to be rebranded as Core i3) are a bit better, but they also have unusual CPU spikes when just scrolling through a website in Chromium, which I haven't noticed on mobile or desktop Core i5 processors. For a device of this size a 3270 mAh battery is a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend buying a non-USB-PD charging Chromebook, all the newer ones come with USB Type-C as per Google's new requirements (it's said to be a huge advantage in educational institutions to only have one charging connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: CB5-571/AURON_YUNA supports Coreboot UEFI payloads (not dual-booting ChromeOS this way though), but [not all][6] Chromebooks do, you'd have to use the legacy boot slot to boot an after market Linux distro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding my experience, I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A Lenovo N22 with a very similar Celeron, 2 GB of RAM and slow 32 GB of eMMC mass storage. It has very good battery life due to the low power processor that can get about 20 hours out the 4500 mAh battery on the lowest brightness setting. But I don't use it very much due to its underpowered processor, rather clunky, non-convertible form factor and because of …&#xD;&#xA;- A ASUS C302 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core m3 processor, 4 GB of RAM, comparably fast 64 GB of eMMC. Battery life is a bit worse due to the beefier processor and only 3900 mAh which results in 8 to 12 hours on lower brightness settings, which is okay because of the good screen. It also has USB Type-C charging, so I just need to pack one (bigger) charger for phone and laptop if I decide I'm going to need it. It's a very slim and sturdy convertible device for media consumption.&#xD;&#xA;- A Thinkpad T560 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core i5 processor, 16 GB of RAM, 1 TB midrange SSD, built in battery plus a small and a large replaceable battery, but no USB Type-C charging. I pull this one out of the bag whenever I decided that it's worth to carry around so much weight (it is most of the time). It's not as clunky as older devices like a T530 (which recently received Coreboot support if I didn't get it wrong) but in some crowded situations I left the 15&quot; in the bag and used the smaller ASUS instead, which has – hard to deny – become my daily driver, even though I prefer additional performance of the beefier machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** I'd stay away from Celeron powered Chromebooks if you cannot live inside tmux or other specific, very trimmed down setups (GalliumOS is already very nice). A cheap small Chromebook as a non-primary device may be okay, but consider saving the money and buying a better equipped device for double the price. Such premium convertible Chromebooks with touchscreens and backlit keyboards are rare, hard to get and even more pricier at the moment here in Germany, but honestly save your money or go for the pricier Ultrabooks/Laptops while we wait for more competitive devices. I found [Chrome Unboxed][7] to be an interesting read on this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Some usually bring up video editing and make it sound like something unusual, resource heavy thing that you don't usually do unless you are an artist or trying to make money off of Youtube but just set the playback speed of video above 1x and look at how that changes resource consumption or just quickly seek to the right timestamp in a video. It's also not completely absurd to watch video this way see [PAL speed-up][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MUNAA.014&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://system76.com/laptops/galago&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://puri.sm/products/librem-13/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www3.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-4th-Gen/p/22TP2TXX14G&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-chromebook-15/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://chromeunboxed.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/576i#PAL_speed-up" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7343" RevisionGUID="62c26ff7-bf06-4d02-bd12-c3851fc6d5f6" CreationDate="2017-05-07T19:19:27.963" UserId="1329" Comment="added 1257 characters in body" Text="According to the [product page][1] the Chromebook has a Celeron 3205U Dual Core clocked at 1.5 GHz. The other machines in your list ([1][2], [2][3], [3][4], [4][5]) start with Intel Core i5 processors of the 6th or 7th generation usually clocked about one GHz higher featuring Hyper Threading.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cnet [says][6] the Chromebook has M.2 storage, which is better than the typical non-upgradeable and typically slower eMMC found in many other Chromebooks. It would be nice if the RAM was upgradeable too, 4 GB are not shabby but not plenty either. I'd rate the slow processor as a deal breaker though because I had a similar Celeron stutter at 1080p video playback (on a smaller screen so scaling was also involved). So the comparably big screen may not be useful at all. You may argue that you are not the kind of person watching 1080p videos on such a device and I'd mostly agree, but if the processor is already under high load in this scenario and most of the time struggling to keep up with running a non-ChromeOS OS (like just opening XFCE's or Gnome's resource monitor) then I wouldn't want to wait for it to get its work done when I actually need to be productive. Also these are usually passive cooled devices, which may overheat and crash or just throttle down even more (to get no work done at all!?). Core m processors (soon to be rebranded as Core i3) are a bit better, but they also have unusual CPU spikes when just scrolling through a website in Chromium, which I haven't noticed on mobile or desktop Core i5 processors. For a device of this size a 3270 mAh battery is a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend buying a non-USB-PD charging Chromebook, all the newer ones come with USB Type-C as per Google's new requirements (it's said to be a huge advantage in educational institutions to only have one charging connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;N.B.: CB5-571/AURON_YUNA supports Coreboot UEFI payloads (not dual-booting ChromeOS this way though), but [not all][7] Chromebooks do, you'd have to use the legacy boot slot to boot an after market Linux distro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding my experience, I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A Lenovo N22 with a very similar Celeron, 2 GB of RAM and slow 32 GB of eMMC mass storage. It has very good battery life due to the low power processor that can get about 20 hours out the 4500 mAh battery on the lowest brightness setting. But I don't use it very much due to its underpowered processor, rather clunky, non-convertible form factor and because of …&#xD;&#xA;- A ASUS C302 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core m3 processor, 4 GB of RAM, comparably fast 64 GB of eMMC. Battery life is a bit worse due to the beefier processor and only 3900 mAh which results in 8 to 12 hours on lower brightness settings, which is okay because of the good screen. It also has USB Type-C charging, so I just need to pack one (bigger) charger for phone and laptop if I decide I'm going to need it. It's a very slim and sturdy convertible device for media consumption.&#xD;&#xA;- A Thinkpad T560 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core i5 processor, 16 GB of RAM, 1 TB midrange SSD, built in battery plus a small and a large replaceable battery, but no USB Type-C charging. I pull this one out of the bag whenever I decided that it's worth to carry around so much weight (it is most of the time). It's not as clunky as older devices like a T530 (which recently received Coreboot support if I didn't get it wrong) but in some crowded situations I left the 15&quot; in the bag and used the smaller ASUS instead, which has – hard to deny – become my daily driver, even though I prefer additional performance of the beefier machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Summary:** I'd stay away from Celeron powered Chromebooks if you cannot live inside tmux or other specific, very trimmed down setups (GalliumOS is already very nice). A cheap small Chromebook as a non-primary device may be okay, but consider saving the money and buying a better equipped device for double the price. Such premium convertible Chromebooks with touchscreens and backlit keyboards are rare, hard to get and even more pricier at the moment here in Germany, but honestly save your money or go for the pricier Ultrabooks/Laptops while we wait for more competitive devices. I found [Chrome Unboxed][8] to be an interesting read on this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Some usually bring up video editing and make it sound like something unusual, resource heavy thing that you don't usually do unless you are an artist or trying to make money off of Youtube but just set the playback speed of video above 1x and look at how that changes resource consumption or just quickly seek to the right timestamp in a video. It's also not completely absurd to watch video this way see [PAL speed-up][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Comparing features and numbers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition (9360)&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: 60Wh&#xD;&#xA;- Display/size: 13,3&quot; up to 3200×1800px, up to 400nits on some models ([source][10])&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: M.2&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 1,2kg&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: USB-PD, Thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Librem 13&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: -, claimed 7 to 9 hours&#xD;&#xA;- Display/size: 13.3&quot;, 1920×1080px&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: M.2 + SATA 3&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 1,4kg&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: no USB-PD, small touchpad with buttons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Galago Pro&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: 35,3Wh&#xD;&#xA;- Display/size: 13&quot;, 3200×1800px&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: M.2 + SATA 3&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 1,3kg&#xD;&#xA;- Cons: no USB-PD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## ThinkPad X1 Carbon 4th Gen&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: 52Wh, claimed 11 hours&#xD;&#xA;- Display/size: 14&quot;, up to 2560×1440px, up to 300nits on some ([source][10])&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: M.2 + SATA 3&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 1,11kg&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: USB-PD, (Thunderbolt?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## ThinkPad X1 Carbon [5th Gen][11]&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: 57Wh, claimed 15,5 hours&#xD;&#xA;- Display/size: 14&quot;, up to 2560×1440px, 300nits&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: M.2 (only?)&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 1,39kg&#xD;&#xA;- Pros: USB-PD, Thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA;- Also available in Silver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MUNAA.014&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://system76.com/laptops/galago&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://puri.sm/products/librem-13/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www3.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-4th-Gen/p/22TP2TXX14G&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.dell.com/de/p/xps-13-9360-laptop/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-chromebook-15/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://chromeunboxed.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/576i#PAL_speed-up&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.pcmag.com/review/352469/lenovo-thinkpad-x1-carbon-2017&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-x/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-5th-Generation/p/22TP2TXX15G" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6756" RevisionGUID="8f86b9e3-6498-4e8d-ae2d-900769f24948" CreationDate="2017-05-08T11:04:28.713" UserId="312" Comment="price range update" Text="I currently own one external HDD (CnMemory airy 3TB), but it's filled to the brim so I need another one. Since the amount of space I require is growing at an alarming rate, I need a rather large one, I'm aiming for 5TB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to use the new HDD for all of my data, which includes backups from the internal harddrives in my computer and my large movie/TV collection along with some other larger stuff. I could then use my current 3TB hard drive exclusively as a back-up for my important/sensitive stuff, so that either harddrive could fail at any given time without me losing anything that's *really* important to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the important features of my new hard drive are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 5TB storage or more. 4TB is acceptable if there is a good 4TB model that is reasonably more affordable than a 5TB alternative.&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- **Durability**&#xD;&#xA;- No fancy stuff that I would have to pay for (I don't need any sophisticated backup-software for example, I do my backups manually)&#xD;&#xA;- Normal/average transfer speed. Don't need something super fast.&#xD;&#xA;- *Should* have an on/off switch (not set in stone). I usually have my external HDD always connected but turned off when I don't need it. I do **not** want something that is always on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price range is **150~200 €** (Germany). I would prefer something less pricy, but I'd rather have something reliable that won't randomly break too soon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Price range update. Still hoping for an answer by the way, I'm thankful for any and all recommendations!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7345" RevisionGUID="3c818649-7c56-48b9-b20c-3898eecb7261" CreationDate="2017-05-08T11:10:53.143" UserId="1007" Text="Sounds like your hard drive died. That clicking sound is the reader head slamming back and forth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7346" RevisionGUID="dad53441-f2bc-4839-b255-980c3126ded6" CreationDate="2017-05-08T17:41:34.450" UserId="4832" Text="I am looking to make a new desktop PC purchase and I would like to utilize the new optane technology for overall performance as well as speeding up my HDDs. I'm going with a Xeon as opposed to a core CPU because I'm mostly going to use this desktop for number crunching -- things that benefit from having many medium speed threads as opposed to 1 really high throughput CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trouble is I cannot find any information on what components are compatible or not. All I hear is &quot;Ra, Ra 7th Gen Core CPUS&quot; for optane compatibility. But I did not find any info on what Xeon CPUs are compatible with optane if any. The other thing I'd have to worry about is if my motherboard supports optane. The closest thing I found was this Xeon/Optane SSD compatible motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.supermicro.com/newsroom/pressreleases/2017/press170321_Intel_Optane.cfm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's not a desktop solution, it's seems to be marketed as a server board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can some one recommend the following hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Optane compatiable CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Xeon AND optane compatible motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Provided that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must fit in standard size desktop PC&#xD;&#xA; - Must have &gt;8 cores (dual CPU is optional)&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally under $2000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22645" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7346" RevisionGUID="dad53441-f2bc-4839-b255-980c3126ded6" CreationDate="2017-05-08T17:41:34.450" UserId="4832" Text="Desktop PC Xeon CPU Optane SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22646" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7346" RevisionGUID="dad53441-f2bc-4839-b255-980c3126ded6" CreationDate="2017-05-08T17:41:34.450" UserId="4832" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22650" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="b79460c8-8afd-47b7-9402-b7633c42fd7c" CreationDate="2017-05-08T18:56:11.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="75b3690d-4759-45d2-a87d-a30ecc712083" CreationDate="2017-05-09T16:42:26.293" UserId="6176" Text="I need to buy a laptop for graphic design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements, from top to lowest priority:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. NOT ASUS&#xD;&#xA;2. MUST run all adobe programs and features fast and smooth (photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect.).&#xD;&#xA;___________________________________________________________&#xD;&#xA;3. light weight is a big benefit.&#xD;&#xA;4. price&#xD;&#xA;5. screen size must not pass 15.4&quot;&#xD;&#xA;6. hard disk space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is important. If you can satisfy 1. and 2. with a low cost computer, please link it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be happy for more than one option to choose from&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22664" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="75b3690d-4759-45d2-a87d-a30ecc712083" CreationDate="2017-05-09T16:42:26.293" UserId="6176" Text="I need a recoomendation for a low cost graphic design laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22665" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="75b3690d-4759-45d2-a87d-a30ecc712083" CreationDate="2017-05-09T16:42:26.293" UserId="6176" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7353" RevisionGUID="e6fbde91-c0ff-4258-8f51-8b481877d367" CreationDate="2017-05-09T19:53:49.337" UserId="527" Text="Please recommend a small digital camera under $600 with an optical viewfinder.  I have yet to be able to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By small, I mean approximately no larger than two original iPhones stacked one on top of the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical viewfinder could technically be digital, but it must be usable while focusing your eye at infinity, like with an optical viewfinder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If possible, please indicate if the camera has dioptre (diopter) adjustment built into the viewfinder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Questions regarding camera recommendations have previously been deemed on-topic.)*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22667" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7353" RevisionGUID="e6fbde91-c0ff-4258-8f51-8b481877d367" CreationDate="2017-05-09T19:53:49.337" UserId="527" Text="World's smallest digital camera under $600 with an optical viewfinder?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22668" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7353" RevisionGUID="e6fbde91-c0ff-4258-8f51-8b481877d367" CreationDate="2017-05-09T19:53:49.337" UserId="527" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="08586eef-18a8-4beb-a190-8bb1d2a50b74" CreationDate="2017-05-10T15:58:00.703" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I need to buy a laptop for graphic design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements, from top to lowest priority:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. NOT ASUS&#xD;&#xA;2. MUST run all adobe programs and features fast and smooth (photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect.).&#xD;&#xA;___________________________________________________________&#xD;&#xA;3. light weight is a big benefit.&#xD;&#xA;4. price&#xD;&#xA;5. screen size must not pass 15.4&quot;&#xD;&#xA;6. hard disk space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is important. If you can satisfy 1. and 2. with a low cost computer, please link to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be happy for more than one option to choose from." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22673" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="08586eef-18a8-4beb-a190-8bb1d2a50b74" CreationDate="2017-05-10T15:58:00.703" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I need a recommendation for a low cost graphic design laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22674" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="08586eef-18a8-4beb-a190-8bb1d2a50b74" CreationDate="2017-05-10T15:58:00.703" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 155 edit id of 595" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22676" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="a70db078-b4b6-4d67-8f86-8ac604de0b56" CreationDate="2017-05-10T20:34:18.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22681" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="b55382b3-4acc-4b3d-9862-8161d322cfcd" CreationDate="2017-05-11T08:45:14.370" UserId="6176" Comment="edited body; added 46 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a laptop for graphic design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements, from top to lowest priority:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. NOT ASUS&#xD;&#xA;2. MUST run all adobe programs and features fast and smooth (photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect.).&#xD;&#xA;___________________________________________________________&#xD;&#xA;3. light weight is a big benefit.&#xD;&#xA;4. price&#xD;(please give me  850$ option and 1300$options)&#xA;5. screen size must not pass 15.6&quot;&#xD;&#xA;6. hard disk space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is important. If you can satisfy 1. and 2. with a low cost computer, please link to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be happy for more than one option to choose from." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="e15e429c-00fa-483c-94fc-1943059b573b" CreationDate="2017-05-11T14:11:00.230" UserId="478" Text="I'm looking for a good ethereum mining GPU. I heard it's mostly memory bandwidth intensive, so I rounded up the specs of the latest cards from Wikipedia and came up this (prices are in CAD.): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    card                     price     watts      GB/s    GB/s/$    GB/s/W  $/(GB/s)/year&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1050        148.82        75       112      0.75      1.49          1.548&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1050 Ti     189.78        75       112      0.59      1.49          1.974&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1060 3GB    271.69       120       224      0.82      1.87          1.413&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1060 6GB    339.96       120       224      0.66      1.87          1.768&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1070        517.44       150       256      0.49      1.71          2.355&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1080        817.81       180       352      0.43      1.96          2.707&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1080 Ti     954.34       250       484      0.51      1.94          2.297&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA TITAN X         1638.35       250       480      0.29      1.92          3.977&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA TITAN Xp        1638.35       250     547.7      0.33      2.19          3.485&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 460           189.78        75       112      0.59      1.49          1.974&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 470           244.39       120       211      0.86      1.76          1.349&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 480 4GB       271.69       150       224      0.82      1.49          1.413&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 480 8GB       326.30       150       256      0.78      1.71          1.485&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 550           107.86        50       112      1.04      2.24          1.122&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 560           135.16        80       112      0.83       1.4          1.406&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 570           230.73       150       224      0.97      1.49            1.2&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 580 4GB       271.69       185       256      0.94      1.38          1.236&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 580 8GB       312.65       185       256      0.82      1.38          1.423&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything there's pretty self-explanatory except for the far right column. It's an estimated TCO per unit memory speed per year including cost of power in Ontario. So, you can probably just ignore it if you don't live in Ontario. In fact, you can probably ignore it even if you do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, the GB/s/W is the dominating factor when it comes to electrical bills. By that measure, the 4GB Radeon RX 550 is winning, but you'd need quite a few of those in a single system to really reap the benefits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the rest of my build, I'm assuming that mining throughput scales more or less linearly with additional GPUs. If this is true, communication between GPUs isn't necessary (i.e. crossfire support unneeded) and it doesn't matter too much what the PCIE bus speed is. I'm assuming linear scaling because I think this is how it works on the network at large, with eth generation scaling linearly with number of miners. Is that a sound assumption?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, to those who have actually done this in real life, am I at all close here? Am I missing anything critical?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, this is the script I used to generate that table:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    #!/usr/bin/env python&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # constants for doing conversions.&#xD;&#xA;    hour = 60*60&#xD;&#xA;    year = 365.25*24*hour&#xD;&#xA;    kilo = 1000&#xD;&#xA;    watt = 1&#xD;&#xA;    CAD = 1&#xD;&#xA;    USD = 1.36529*CAD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Data is from Wikipedia.&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_10_series&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_400_series&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_500_series&#xD;&#xA;    card = [&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1050', 'GeForce GTX 1050 Ti', 'GeForce GTX 1060 3GB',&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1060 6GB', 'GeForce GTX 1070', 'GeForce GTX 1080',&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1080 Ti', 'NVIDIA TITAN X', 'NVIDIA TITAN Xp',&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 460', 'Radeon RX 470', 'Radeon RX 480 4GB',&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 480 8GB', 'Radeon RX 550', 'Radeon RX 560',&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 570', 'Radeon RX 580 4GB', 'Radeon RX 580 8GB',&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    price = [&#xD;&#xA;            109*USD, 139*USD, 199*USD, 249*USD, 379*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            599*USD, 699*USD, 1200*USD, 1200*USD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            139*USD, 179*USD, 199*USD, 239*USD, 79*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            99*USD, 169*USD, 199*USD, 229*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    watts = [&#xD;&#xA;            75, 75, 120, 120, 150, 180, 250, 250, 250,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            75, 120, 150, 150, 50, 80, 150, 185, 185,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    gflops = [&#xD;&#xA;            1862, 2138, 3935, 4372, 6463, 8873, 11340, 10974, 12150,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            2150, 4940, 5834, 5834, 1211, 2611, 5095, 6175, 6175,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    memspeed = [&#xD;&#xA;            112, 112, 224, 224, 256, 352, 484, 480, 547.7,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            112, 211, 224, 256, 112, 112, 224, 256, 256,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # http://www.ontario-hydro.com/current-rates&#xD;&#xA;    powerprice = (12*0.087 + 6*0.18 + 6*0.132)/24 * CAD/(kilo*watt*hour)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Expected lifetime of GPU before resale. PCIE4 is coming out in two years, &#xD;&#xA;    # probably destroying all of this.&#xD;&#xA;    lifetime = 2*year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Expected percent depreciation of GPU's resale value after above lifetime has &#xD;&#xA;    # elapsed. Optimistic?&#xD;&#xA;    depreciation = .2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print('{:20}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;15}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;        'card', 'price', 'watts', 'Gflops',&#xD;&#xA;        'Gflops/$', 'Gflops/W', '$/Tflops/year'))&#xD;&#xA;    for i in range(len(card)):&#xD;&#xA;        gpd = gflops[i]/price[i]&#xD;&#xA;        gpw = gflops[i]/watts[i]&#xD;&#xA;        # Average total cost of ownership per year per teraflops of computing &#xD;&#xA;        # power, including cost of power if for some reason running at full tilt &#xD;&#xA;        # all year round.&#xD;&#xA;        dpT = 1000/gpd&#xD;&#xA;        tco = dpT*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year&#xD;&#xA;        print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;            card[i], price[i], watts[i], gflops[i], gpd, gpw, tco))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print()&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print('{:20}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;15}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;        'card', 'price', 'watts', 'GB/s',&#xD;&#xA;        'GB/s/$', 'GB/s/W', '$/(GB/s)/year'))&#xD;&#xA;    for i in range(len(card)):&#xD;&#xA;        gpd = memspeed[i]/price[i]&#xD;&#xA;        gpw = memspeed[i]/watts[i]&#xD;&#xA;        dpg = 1/gpd&#xD;&#xA;        tco = dpg*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year&#xD;&#xA;        print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;            card[i], price[i], watts[i], memspeed[i], gpd, gpw, tco))&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="e15e429c-00fa-483c-94fc-1943059b573b" CreationDate="2017-05-11T14:11:00.230" UserId="478" Text="a good ethereum mining GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="e15e429c-00fa-483c-94fc-1943059b573b" CreationDate="2017-05-11T14:11:00.230" UserId="478" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="af29e191-d2a3-48a1-bb9c-49ee1dd206bc" CreationDate="2017-05-11T15:04:22.857" UserId="478" Comment="4GB is not needed for identification and may not be right." Text="I'm looking for a good ethereum mining GPU. I heard it's mostly memory bandwidth intensive, so I rounded up the specs of the latest cards from Wikipedia and came up this (prices are in CAD.): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    card                     price     watts      GB/s    GB/s/$    GB/s/W  $/(GB/s)/year&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1050        148.82        75       112      0.75      1.49          1.548&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1050 Ti     189.78        75       112      0.59      1.49          1.974&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1060 3GB    271.69       120       224      0.82      1.87          1.413&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1060 6GB    339.96       120       224      0.66      1.87          1.768&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1070        517.44       150       256      0.49      1.71          2.355&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1080        817.81       180       352      0.43      1.96          2.707&#xD;&#xA;    GeForce GTX 1080 Ti     954.34       250       484      0.51      1.94          2.297&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA TITAN X         1638.35       250       480      0.29      1.92          3.977&#xD;&#xA;    NVIDIA TITAN Xp        1638.35       250     547.7      0.33      2.19          3.485&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 460           189.78        75       112      0.59      1.49          1.974&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 470           244.39       120       211      0.86      1.76          1.349&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 480 4GB       271.69       150       224      0.82      1.49          1.413&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 480 8GB       326.30       150       256      0.78      1.71          1.485&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 550           107.86        50       112      1.04      2.24          1.122&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 560           135.16        80       112      0.83       1.4          1.406&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 570           230.73       150       224      0.97      1.49            1.2&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 580 4GB       271.69       185       256      0.94      1.38          1.236&#xD;&#xA;    Radeon RX 580 8GB       312.65       185       256      0.82      1.38          1.423&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything there's pretty self-explanatory except for the far right column. It's an estimated TCO per unit memory speed per year including cost of power in Ontario. So, you can probably just ignore it if you don't live in Ontario. In fact, you can probably ignore it even if you do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, the GB/s/W is the dominating factor when it comes to electrical bills. By that measure, the Radeon RX 550 is winning, but you'd need quite a few of those in a single system to really reap the benefits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the rest of my build, I'm assuming that mining throughput scales more or less linearly with additional GPUs. If this is true, communication between GPUs isn't necessary (i.e. crossfire support unneeded) and it doesn't matter too much what the PCIE bus speed is. I'm assuming linear scaling because I think this is how it works on the network at large, with eth generation scaling linearly with number of miners. Is that a sound assumption?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, to those who have actually done this in real life, am I at all close here? Am I missing anything critical?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, this is the script I used to generate that table:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    #!/usr/bin/env python&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # constants for doing conversions.&#xD;&#xA;    hour = 60*60&#xD;&#xA;    year = 365.25*24*hour&#xD;&#xA;    kilo = 1000&#xD;&#xA;    watt = 1&#xD;&#xA;    CAD = 1&#xD;&#xA;    USD = 1.36529*CAD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Data is from Wikipedia.&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_10_series&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_400_series&#xD;&#xA;    # https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_500_series&#xD;&#xA;    card = [&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1050', 'GeForce GTX 1050 Ti', 'GeForce GTX 1060 3GB',&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1060 6GB', 'GeForce GTX 1070', 'GeForce GTX 1080',&#xD;&#xA;            'GeForce GTX 1080 Ti', 'NVIDIA TITAN X', 'NVIDIA TITAN Xp',&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 460', 'Radeon RX 470', 'Radeon RX 480 4GB',&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 480 8GB', 'Radeon RX 550', 'Radeon RX 560',&#xD;&#xA;            'Radeon RX 570', 'Radeon RX 580 4GB', 'Radeon RX 580 8GB',&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    price = [&#xD;&#xA;            109*USD, 139*USD, 199*USD, 249*USD, 379*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            599*USD, 699*USD, 1200*USD, 1200*USD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            139*USD, 179*USD, 199*USD, 239*USD, 79*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            99*USD, 169*USD, 199*USD, 229*USD,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    watts = [&#xD;&#xA;            75, 75, 120, 120, 150, 180, 250, 250, 250,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            75, 120, 150, 150, 50, 80, 150, 185, 185,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;    gflops = [&#xD;&#xA;            1862, 2138, 3935, 4372, 6463, 8873, 11340, 10974, 12150,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            2150, 4940, 5834, 5834, 1211, 2611, 5095, 6175, 6175,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    memspeed = [&#xD;&#xA;            112, 112, 224, 224, 256, 352, 484, 480, 547.7,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;            112, 211, 224, 256, 112, 112, 224, 256, 256,&#xD;&#xA;            ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # http://www.ontario-hydro.com/current-rates&#xD;&#xA;    powerprice = (12*0.087 + 6*0.18 + 6*0.132)/24 * CAD/(kilo*watt*hour)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Expected lifetime of GPU before resale. PCIE4 is coming out in two years, &#xD;&#xA;    # probably destroying all of this.&#xD;&#xA;    lifetime = 2*year&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    # Expected percent depreciation of GPU's resale value after above lifetime has &#xD;&#xA;    # elapsed. Optimistic?&#xD;&#xA;    depreciation = .2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print('{:20}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;15}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;        'card', 'price', 'watts', 'Gflops',&#xD;&#xA;        'Gflops/$', 'Gflops/W', '$/Tflops/year'))&#xD;&#xA;    for i in range(len(card)):&#xD;&#xA;        gpd = gflops[i]/price[i]&#xD;&#xA;        gpw = gflops[i]/watts[i]&#xD;&#xA;        # Average total cost of ownership per year per teraflops of computing &#xD;&#xA;        # power, including cost of power if for some reason running at full tilt &#xD;&#xA;        # all year round.&#xD;&#xA;        dpT = 1000/gpd&#xD;&#xA;        tco = dpT*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year&#xD;&#xA;        print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;            card[i], price[i], watts[i], gflops[i], gpd, gpw, tco))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print()&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    print('{:20}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;10}{:&gt;15}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;        'card', 'price', 'watts', 'GB/s',&#xD;&#xA;        'GB/s/$', 'GB/s/W', '$/(GB/s)/year'))&#xD;&#xA;    for i in range(len(card)):&#xD;&#xA;        gpd = memspeed[i]/price[i]&#xD;&#xA;        gpw = memspeed[i]/watts[i]&#xD;&#xA;        dpg = 1/gpd&#xD;&#xA;        tco = dpg*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year&#xD;&#xA;        print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(&#xD;&#xA;            card[i], price[i], watts[i], memspeed[i], gpd, gpw, tco))&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7359" RevisionGUID="95a2af2f-65dd-41c4-a71b-c7e826ca0c6d" CreationDate="2017-05-11T16:27:20.497" UserId="5961" Text="I'm looking for a Mini ATX (if possible with the latest generation of I7 or even new AMD) with a full 4k @60hz / HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need at least one PCIe (that why I don't go to mini-STX)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(the display will be a 3,840 x 2,160 and the power supply is 50/60 Hz.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like full 4K, but only find that so far&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jetway NF594-Q170 Mini-ITX Motherboard (don't know nothing about Jetway)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.jetwaycomputer.com/NF594.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20Z170%20Gaming-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7359" RevisionGUID="95a2af2f-65dd-41c4-a71b-c7e826ca0c6d" CreationDate="2017-05-11T16:27:20.497" UserId="5961" Text="Mini ATX with 4k @60Hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7359" RevisionGUID="95a2af2f-65dd-41c4-a71b-c7e826ca0c6d" CreationDate="2017-05-11T16:27:20.497" UserId="5961" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22693" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7359" RevisionGUID="39c9197a-be98-4b9e-bd20-cd0f57ecc854" CreationDate="2017-05-11T16:50:21.907" UserId="5961" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a Mini ATX (if possible with the latest generation of I7 or even new AMD) with a full 4k @60hz / HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need at least one PCIe (that why I don't go to mini-STX)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(the display will be a 3,840 x 2,160 and the power supply is 50/60 Hz.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like full 4K, but only find that so far&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jetway NF594-Q170 Mini-ITX Motherboard (don't know nothing about Jetway)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.jetwaycomputer.com/NF594.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20Z170%20Gaming-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise I was thinking &#xD;&#xA;ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/AC S1151 M-ITX Intel Motherboard  with &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;G.SKILL TridentZ Series F4-4000C19D-8GTZ 8 GB DDR4 4000 MHz C 19 1.35 V Memory Kit - Dual Colour " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7359" RevisionGUID="4d9d3773-cd7b-4b19-b51e-64139792cf9d" CreationDate="2017-05-11T17:13:57.547" UserId="5961" Comment="added 299 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a Mini ATX (if possible with the latest generation of I7 or even new AMD) with a full 4k @60hz / HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need at least one PCIe (that why I don't go to mini-STX)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any recommendation ?&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(the display will be a 3,840 x 2,160 and the power supply is 50/60 Hz.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like full 4K, but only find that so far&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jetway NF594-Q170 Mini-ITX Motherboard (don't know nothing about Jetway)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.jetwaycomputer.com/NF594.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20Z170%20Gaming-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise I was thinking &#xD;&#xA;ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/AC S1151 M-ITX Intel Motherboard  with &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;G.SKILL TridentZ Series F4-4000C19D-8GTZ 8 GB DDR4 4000 MHz C 19 1.35 V Memory Kit - Dual Colour &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;	&#xD;&#xA;and for the CPU I'm not to sure about which one, I5, i7...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS, silly question but 1 PCIe 3.0 x16, 1 Half-size Mini-PCIe, can I have something like : DVBSky S952 PCIe card &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The use : Plex server, DNS server, Torrent server, and playing DVB-S Sat feed from Kodi and IPTV + some video &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22702" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="932342d4-d7f6-4408-99c8-98324c135625" CreationDate="2017-05-12T04:48:59.767" UserId="5217" Text="This came as a suggestion to [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7328/moto-g5-with-nfc?noredirect=1#comment12262_7328). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to buy a smartphone in the U.S. that has NFC and clean Android (i.e., no bloatware). I'm also looking for a phone that is reasonably priced and that has a decent processor. I know these specs are rather vague, but I was thinking something along the lines of the moto G5. (Hopefully that will make it a bit clearer.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unsurprisingly, my first impulse was to buy the moto G5, until I found out that for some reason it doesn't come with NFC _only_ in the US. So now I'm trying to find similar phones with similar prices and specs, which is hard because the Moto G really does a very nice job of making good affordable  phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the only thing that came close were the new Nokia phones that were announced, but I still don't know the price and the specs don't seem to be as good as the Moto G specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22703" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="932342d4-d7f6-4408-99c8-98324c135625" CreationDate="2017-05-12T04:48:59.767" UserId="5217" Text="Budget phone with NFC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22704" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="932342d4-d7f6-4408-99c8-98324c135625" CreationDate="2017-05-12T04:48:59.767" UserId="5217" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22706" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="dd23b4f0-7c76-4210-a140-ed10b59413e3" CreationDate="2017-05-12T11:25:27.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="bb928b96-df2d-4bbb-99f4-ed5f855974f4" CreationDate="2017-05-12T18:02:23.930" UserId="6192" Text="This question is also on [superuser][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a `SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US` and it's equipped with a single mini PCIe slot currently occupied by a `Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG Wireless Network Adapter`. I wish to upgrade my computer to include M.2 Flash memory capabilities but there are no extra slots to install it into. Is there existence of such hardware that would allow me to utilize WLAN and flash storage in the same expansion slot?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done extensive research and have come across nothing, the concept of integrated features within traditional tech has been explored in giving sd cards WiFi inter connectivity, granted, this isn't what I'm looking for it's just something similar. What I would like would be somewhere along the lines of a Graphics Card with some extra USB connectors on it (just an example, again not excactly what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc4TR.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22717" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="bb928b96-df2d-4bbb-99f4-ed5f855974f4" CreationDate="2017-05-12T18:02:23.930" UserId="6192" Text="2 in 1 expansion cards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22718" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="bb928b96-df2d-4bbb-99f4-ed5f855974f4" CreationDate="2017-05-12T18:02:23.930" UserId="6192" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22719" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="09c70fb9-86cd-4ac0-a604-556fb44570b7" CreationDate="2017-05-12T18:11:19.513" UserId="6192" Comment="boldend question &amp; question will be on " Text="This question **will** also be on [superuser][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a `SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US` and it's equipped with a single mini PCIe slot currently occupied by a `Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG Wireless Network Adapter`. I wish to upgrade my computer to include M.2 Flash memory capabilities but there are no extra slots to install it into. **Is there existence of such hardware that would allow me to utilize WLAN and flash storage in the same expansion slot?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done extensive research and have come across nothing, the concept of integrated features within traditional tech has been explored in giving sd cards WiFi inter connectivity, granted, this isn't what I'm looking for it's just something similar. What I would like would be somewhere along the lines of a Graphics Card with some extra USB connectors on it (just an example, again not excactly what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc4TR.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22720" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="3c679fa6-2e01-418e-a42c-b34ad6899365" CreationDate="2017-05-13T05:41:34.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7369" RevisionGUID="64866589-4d86-42b8-bbb1-004d06464efa" CreationDate="2017-05-13T05:47:51.087" UserId="6194" Text="I'm helping an older coworker upgrade his PC, he has a HP Compaq with the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pentium 4, 3.2 GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 72 GB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 1.5 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - HP 09F0H motherboard, Intel 945G Express chipset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He just needs something he can use for day-to-day browsing and the occasional HD movie. Budget is very tight, at CAD $150.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to buy the following for him:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA 8400GS graphics ($38): Just something simple for HD video playback&#xD;&#xA; - Seagate Barracuda 1 TB hard drive ($64)&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB RAM ($37)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I originally thought to upgrade the CPU, but the motherboard is incompatible with modern CPUs. To upgrade the motherboard + CPU would practically use up the entire budget, with unusable RAM and storage space. I chose to get a graphics card because the Pentium 4 seems to struggle with Youtube videos even at 720p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Would this be a good allocation of the budget, or is there any better ideas?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I've had bad experiences with used parts so that's not an option. I don't want to risk his limited budget on potentially faulty components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22722" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7369" RevisionGUID="64866589-4d86-42b8-bbb1-004d06464efa" CreationDate="2017-05-13T05:47:51.087" UserId="6194" Text="Can a graphics card revive an old pentium 4 PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22723" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7369" RevisionGUID="64866589-4d86-42b8-bbb1-004d06464efa" CreationDate="2017-05-13T05:47:51.087" UserId="6194" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22724" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="e4c9f4ca-8dc7-4710-819c-478bb8fa0dfb" CreationDate="2017-05-13T08:41:35.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7371" RevisionGUID="5e3abc50-77c2-45ca-8d43-77da77a551fd" CreationDate="2017-05-13T14:42:08.433" UserId="6195" Text="I want to help an eldery man (&gt;70) who wants to send scans of his incoming mail to his son. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking of an hand scanner (something like: https://www.amazon.de/Easypix-Easy-scan-A4-Scanner-schwarz/dp/B0038JQIF6). A desktop scanner is not an option, due to space limitations, and limited mobility of the man.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Main criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cable less, (Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Direct interaction with IPad via Bluetooth. There should be an app where the man can online see the result of the scan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Simple GUI of app. Main features requried are: Scan Document. Safe to file. Send by email. More complex options  (like dpi, OCR, post processing) are not required, and should not result in some complex GUI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not too small displays or bottons on the device. shall be useable also if the eyesight is not perfect anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not so important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Scan quality (dpi)&#xD;&#xA;- OCR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any Idea?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22727" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7371" RevisionGUID="5e3abc50-77c2-45ca-8d43-77da77a551fd" CreationDate="2017-05-13T14:42:08.433" UserId="6195" Text="portable hand scanner works with ipad (for eldery person)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22728" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7371" RevisionGUID="5e3abc50-77c2-45ca-8d43-77da77a551fd" CreationDate="2017-05-13T14:42:08.433" UserId="6195" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7372" RevisionGUID="1550f13b-4ae2-47f8-83bb-499ba47e9381" CreationDate="2017-05-13T15:04:54.650" UserId="6153" Text="I understand that there's no 100% secure firmware. But there are some brands that regularly update their firmware to fix discovered vulnerabilities. What brands of WiFi routers (or specific models) are considered to be secure, stable and provide regular firmware updates? Or maybe even have open-source firmware? I'm looking for a router for home usage, not an enterprise solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7372" RevisionGUID="1550f13b-4ae2-47f8-83bb-499ba47e9381" CreationDate="2017-05-13T15:04:54.650" UserId="6153" Text="What WiFi brands or models are considered to be secure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7372" RevisionGUID="1550f13b-4ae2-47f8-83bb-499ba47e9381" CreationDate="2017-05-13T15:04:54.650" UserId="6153" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22732" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7372" RevisionGUID="8010bbe4-e1cc-450f-92e7-4158761b89fc" CreationDate="2017-05-13T15:14:12.563" UserId="6153" Comment="edited title" Text="What WiFi router brands or models are considered to be secure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7375" RevisionGUID="95822fb3-2261-4ec1-a3bd-42e8ff5e2f3f" CreationDate="2017-05-13T19:23:13.430" UserId="6089" Text="I have the [Dacuda Pocketscan][1] which as previously a successful Kickstarter project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It fits most of your requirements. Most, because being a hand-sized item, the power button is on the small side, about Pez candy size. The begin/end scan button is the larger round button on the top. Results are good, although most of my scans with it are newspaper quality and picks up the dark on the flip side of the paper. It's not the scanner that's poor quality, it's the paper.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the result of a scan of a day-to-day single page calendar, with better quality paper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the scanner is powered up, if the i-Device is turned on and the app installed, it takes the signal and asks permission to start, reducing the need to find the app on the device. Once started, pressing the button on the scan device begins the scan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require reasonably steady hands and the ability to recognize overlap areas which are used to register previous scans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The age of the user and tiny button may disqualify this item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is objectionable with the item you linked as an example?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://dacuda.com/pocketscan/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jW7nq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7375" RevisionGUID="44a4a59f-c75d-42a0-a805-1052de1ea26d" CreationDate="2017-05-13T19:53:23.063" UserId="6089" Comment="minor changes for clarification" Text="I have the [Dacuda Pocketscan][1] which as previously a successful Kickstarter project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It fits most of your requirements. Most, because being a hand-sized item, the power button is on the small side, about Pez candy size. The begin/end scan button is the larger round button on the top. Results are good, although most of my scans with it are newspaper quality and picks up the dark on the flip side of the paper. It's not the scanner that's poor quality, it's the paper.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the result of a scan of a day-to-day single page calendar, with better quality paper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the scanner is powered up, if the i-Device is turned on and the app installed, it takes the signal and asks permission to start, reducing the need to find the app on the device. Once permitted, pressing the button on the scan device begins the scan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require reasonably steady hands and the ability to recognize overlap areas which are used to register previous passes of the scanner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The age of the user and tiny button may disqualify this item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is objectionable with the item you linked as an example?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://dacuda.com/pocketscan/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jW7nq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7377" RevisionGUID="f745cd61-e45d-41ba-ae5d-581ac5125eae" CreationDate="2017-05-14T00:41:33.533" UserId="6200" Text="The upgrade is fine; the 8400 GS appears to have great reviews on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, with an increase in use of cloud services, I doubt that the 1 TB of space will be used at all; maybe 100 GB at the most, since you said that what he will be doing will be pretty much just browsing. Thus, I recommend getting a small 128 GB SSD, which go for around $55. SSDs make Windows considerably snappy, as for many computers the hard drive is the bottleneck for loading web pages. There won't be any complaining of slowness ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22745" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="3ca232d7-853c-446a-8859-094d3cd89846" CreationDate="2017-05-14T01:10:30.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7379" RevisionGUID="0f24ffca-00bb-4c44-a0fa-735608aeaa10" CreationDate="2017-05-14T08:32:04.680" UserId="3630" Text="I have something similar for archiving and documentation purposes (BIM/CAD data for houses). There are some prerequisites you need to take into account:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * You need a rugged notebook, and depending on the value of the data a 2nd one as spare parts.&#xD;&#xA; * The mode of operation to keep it off for X years and to start it up after such a time is a no go. If your client insists, you have to insist more that this is not the way to go (see below)&#xD;&#xA; * You cannot use a proprietary system for storage and you cannot use proprietary data formats for storage. If that is the case, you need to work out a data format and retrieval concept 1st. Also make yourself acquainted with archival storage formats such as PDF-A and seek for their equivalents in DB systems.&#xD;&#xA; * Redundancy, redundancy, redundancy. Depending on the size of the data and if this is the only data to be stored/retrieved, you have to partition your notebook hard disk N times, where the Nth part is able to hold these data. Copy them N times. Use also more than one hard drive (better two smaller than one bigger. Use different technologies (one SSD, one HDD, if the notebook has optical drives - as rugged notebooks often have, use these too)&#xD;&#xA; * Documentation, documentation, documentation. You need to keep the notebook together with extensive - written and printed - documentation about hardware, place of purchase, manufacturer, components etc. in one place. You also need to make very extensive *ab initio* documentation how to retrieve the data, where you provide a plan A, B and C of retrieving the data in the documentation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mode of operation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I wrote above, forget about opening the notebook in 7 years. Set up a periodic schedule once a year to start up the notebook (also have this procedure exactly documented in your printed out documentation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bootup should basically show any pending problems. If you get reading errors, maybe some SSD has started losing data. It's better to know that earlier than later, because retrieval may still be possible than when you get to know 5 years later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should never store the notebook with the battery plugged in. Also, the battery (Li-Ion) should be loaded only 70%. If you can get a notebook with LiFePO4 battery - get that. Life expectancy is 20 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your VM proposal of a &quot;life&quot; backup system is also important. Do it. It's another kind of redundancy. A &quot;hot backup&quot; contrary to what I've described above which could be perceived a cold backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The notebook should also be stored in a safe place. A safe maybe, for the extra safety margin with temperature and humidity sensors (some capacitors tend to dry out) and keep environmental conditions in approved range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is of course more that could - and in case of real mission critical data should (as e.g. geographical dislocation of the two notebooks) - be done, but the above should get you going." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22752" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="e9b8f82b-1563-4ca2-9c6a-a007553cafd4" CreationDate="2017-05-14T15:18:51.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7381" RevisionGUID="f9284e5a-c6d5-4c1c-8fe3-04a6455a7ca2" CreationDate="2017-05-14T18:29:25.957" UserId="6205" Text="My town suffers from quite a few power outages as of late and I am running a home server via my Intel NUC. I'm looking for recommendations on the type of UPS I could buy for such a device. Typically I'd like a supply which could last 3 hours (based on our average time for power resolution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any recommendations you could give?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7381" RevisionGUID="f9284e5a-c6d5-4c1c-8fe3-04a6455a7ca2" CreationDate="2017-05-14T18:29:25.957" UserId="6205" Text="Uninterruptible Power Supply for Intel Nuc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7381" RevisionGUID="f9284e5a-c6d5-4c1c-8fe3-04a6455a7ca2" CreationDate="2017-05-14T18:29:25.957" UserId="6205" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22762" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="b3223982-58a7-452e-ae5c-8028cbbb4b94" CreationDate="2017-05-15T06:37:36.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22772" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7385" RevisionGUID="a492e5ca-bc21-404c-8da5-126a92ac6b67" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:41:04.093" UserId="6211" Text="I'm trying to replace an HHD for an SSD on a &quot; MSI CX61 2QC-1654US&quot; but when I go online to buy for ssd they all look super big. I was doing a little research and there is something called Caddy to substitute the dvd but I don't want to go without dvds. So how can I find a ssd that fits my laptop? I uploaded a pic so you can see how small it is (m... That didn't sound right... Hahaha) anyway.. please give me a little help, I'm doing my bachelor in Computer science now but I have no idea about hardware and I'd like to learn. Thank you&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsuWf.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22773" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7385" RevisionGUID="a492e5ca-bc21-404c-8da5-126a92ac6b67" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:41:04.093" UserId="6211" Text="Question about replacing hard drive on laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22774" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7385" RevisionGUID="a492e5ca-bc21-404c-8da5-126a92ac6b67" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:41:04.093" UserId="6211" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7387" RevisionGUID="5614b011-5564-4bea-9b8e-4663842097e6" CreationDate="2017-05-15T15:06:31.213" UserId="6210" Text="Measure the width of the HDD. If it is about 2.75 inches then it is a 2.5&quot; HDD and so a 2.5&quot; SSD will fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some SSDs are thinner than some HDDs so they come with a spacer. Any non-electrically-conductive packing would do if you find the SSD is not held firmly, but I do not expect that to be a problem as they normally use four screws to hold them in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22781" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7340" RevisionGUID="5b61ae8b-1f80-484d-86b6-cc67c9fd8641" CreationDate="2017-05-15T16:51:07.343" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22782" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7305" RevisionGUID="44b93313-b4a4-40c0-8661-d755c491b933" CreationDate="2017-05-15T16:51:15.120" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22787" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7385" RevisionGUID="b42c2ba3-f061-4d38-b4c9-1e3c31c07c67" CreationDate="2017-05-15T16:52:24.837" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22789" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7339" RevisionGUID="6f41f423-7171-4110-9e7c-61289ce7f883" CreationDate="2017-05-15T16:53:12.793" UserId="8" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22794" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7304" RevisionGUID="e4656ded-90c9-4367-ac1e-a15f7401abd7" CreationDate="2017-05-15T16:54:18.220" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22797" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="df2e08b7-a88a-4f2c-912e-a28adfa65204" CreationDate="2017-05-15T17:51:08.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22805" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="fa7dbb89-d3b7-4bc2-91ff-6df34b049fd8" CreationDate="2017-05-16T15:12:05.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="9c832cf8-ff6b-4b03-a110-bfe25f7f9483" CreationDate="2017-05-16T16:39:59.020" UserId="6192" Comment="added 329 characters in body" Text="This question **will** also be on [superuser][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a `SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US` and it's equipped with a single mini PCIe slot currently occupied by a `Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG Wireless Network Adapter`. I wish to upgrade my computer to include M.2 Flash memory capabilities but there are no extra slots to install it into. **Is there existence of such hardware that would allow me to utilize WLAN and flash storage in the same expansion slot?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done extensive research and have come across nothing, the concept of integrated features within traditional tech has been explored in giving sd cards WiFi inter connectivity, granted, this isn't what I'm looking for it's just something similar. What I would like would be somewhere along the lines of a Graphics Card with some extra USB connectors on it (just an example, again not excactly what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: haha! i have found something :DDDDD, still not what I'm looking for but a great example, it's a wifi decoder and GPU in one [Hybrid Wireless Wifi HD Decoder Mini PCI-e Laptop Notebook Graphics Video Card][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc4TR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-WX637-44005212-02L0-Compatible-CN-0WX637-13740-7AU-00KQ-A00/dp/B00NFSWDNG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7368" RevisionGUID="28c525be-5806-4d81-ad2e-77cfd58d3349" CreationDate="2017-05-16T16:45:30.287" UserId="6192" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="This question **will** also be on [superuser][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use a `SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS CO. LTD. NP300E5E-A02US` and it's equipped with a single mini PCIe slot currently occupied by a `Qualcomm Atheros AR9485WB-EG Wireless Network Adapter`. I wish to upgrade my computer to include M.2 Flash memory capabilities but there are no extra slots to install it into. **Is there existence of such hardware that would allow me to utilize WLAN and flash storage in the same expansion slot?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done extensive research and have come across nothing, the concept of integrated features within traditional tech has been explored in giving sd cards WiFi inter connectivity, granted, this isn't what I'm looking for it's just something similar. What I would like would be somewhere along the lines of a Graphics Card with some extra USB connectors on it (just an example, again not excactly what I'm looking for)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: haha! i have found something :DDDDD, still not what I'm looking for but a great example, it's a wifi decoder and GPU in one [Hybrid Wireless Wifi HD Decoder Mini PCI-e Laptop Notebook Graphics Video Card][3] I'm to excited to think, this may not even be what it says it is :P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://superuser.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc4TR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-WX637-44005212-02L0-Compatible-CN-0WX637-13740-7AU-00KQ-A00/dp/B00NFSWDNG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7391" RevisionGUID="ea5dcfb8-09da-4854-8864-080cf62c69df" CreationDate="2017-05-17T07:13:40.887" UserId="6219" Text="Is there a PC keyboard for Linux, that **ALWAYS** prints **THE SAME SINGLE** character that is displayed on the key being pressed?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The core (the X in [XY problem][1]) problem of mine is, that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - after pressing 'z', the 'y' appears and vice versa&#xD;&#xA; - pressing (most) keys is often a hit-n-miss, what appears on the actual display often differs from the image on the key being pressed&#xD;&#xA; - at least two non-ASCII characters are shown on each key and even more possibilities for the character to pop up after pressing it emerge, when considering layouts&#xD;&#xA; - more characters per key = smaller size per character = harder to read (more so for the visually impaired)&#xD;&#xA; - keys for the characters with accents are merged with the keys for numbers&#xD;&#xA; - keys for the characters with accents are absent&#xD;&#xA; - nobody knows when CAPS LOCK is activated (no, a LED is not enough, I don't desire to check it each time I'm to press a key, which reduces the is-capital-problem to hit-n-miss)&#xD;&#xA; - nobody knows when NUM LOCK is NOT activated, in fact, often it isn't, which makes me wonder who could ever profit from a disabled NUM LOCK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was given multiple answers explaining how it can't be done for various technical reasons. I don't care! Tell me how it can be done, or better, how it is done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm implying (the Y in XY problem) is, the physical images on the keys should **always** resemble **the character to appear on the screen**. Obviously, one might think of a huge keyboard with everything but the kitchen sink, but that's absurd. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For one, I'm sure it can be solved by e-ink keys and I'm sure there are many more choices out there. Maybe the keyboard itself could have an OS to interact with host OS as an intermediary, an adapter. Maybe some sensoric feedback, some integrated touchscreen, some gestures, anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Provided a similar product exists:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If I ain't asking too much, could it NOT destroy my carpal tunnel&#xD;&#xA;   while doing its job?&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - If I still ain't asking much, could it be wireless? Bluetooth would probably be pushing it. I'd do with a dongle that gets accidentally destroyed, making the whole keyboard effectively and irreversibly unusable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7391" RevisionGUID="ea5dcfb8-09da-4854-8864-080cf62c69df" CreationDate="2017-05-17T07:13:40.887" UserId="6219" Text="Deterministic keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7391" RevisionGUID="ea5dcfb8-09da-4854-8864-080cf62c69df" CreationDate="2017-05-17T07:13:40.887" UserId="6219" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22823" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7394" RevisionGUID="7a1e8e37-3f3f-4e2d-bb32-5cf424890936" CreationDate="2017-05-17T17:19:44.593" UserId="6222" Text="For cheap solution I use a wifi router well supported by dd-wrt alternative firmware.&#xD;&#xA;[Here][1] you can find supported models database.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more advanced, trouble-safe solution I use Ubiquiti UniFi - the AC-Lite model is really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22824" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7372" RevisionGUID="cf011227-fc39-43b1-ad98-e75961667030" CreationDate="2017-05-17T18:14:07.583" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="22825" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="1ef0d27d-8d70-407e-81c2-a271c7137607" CreationDate="2017-05-18T00:56:38.703" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22832" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7396" RevisionGUID="a51212f1-5355-4423-ab7a-81d5d0e5e351" CreationDate="2017-05-18T04:35:18.523" UserId="6223" Text="You might be thinking that I want to connect my external hard drive using SATA cables as an internal one....But no, that's what I don't want to do. Is there any way that I can connect an external hard drive using an USB connection and configure it using some software perhaps, which will enable me to use it as an internal one, so that I can move my operating system (Windows 10) and Applications to my external hard drive and use the internal one for files such as documents- storage? Any idea how to do that!?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22833" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7396" RevisionGUID="a51212f1-5355-4423-ab7a-81d5d0e5e351" CreationDate="2017-05-18T04:35:18.523" UserId="6223" Text="How can I use an external hard drive as an internal one virtually?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22834" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7396" RevisionGUID="a51212f1-5355-4423-ab7a-81d5d0e5e351" CreationDate="2017-05-18T04:35:18.523" UserId="6223" Text="&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="c5f9534d-2054-47a6-8579-51a8a24c0a2e" CreationDate="2017-05-18T05:04:23.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22836" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7236" RevisionGUID="a06b4010-3aae-4c14-8531-35b62cdc8d75" CreationDate="2017-05-18T06:04:23.020" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="51acd57f-67bc-4f0f-a634-8c246d2f14b0" CreationDate="2017-05-18T09:05:44.200" UserId="5445" Comment="deleted 100 characters in body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Worldsense&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Magic Leap](http://magicleap.com)&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Pico Goblin&#xD;&#xA;- [Univrses](http://univrses.com/site/ar-vr.php)&#xD;&#xA;- ODG'a [R-8 and R-9](https://next.reality.news/news/hands-with-osterhout-design-groups-r-8-r-9-smartglasses-0176502/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22838" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="c0e784e4-10d2-4077-ac0a-b2a40a96da8e" CreationDate="2017-05-18T10:17:28.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22839" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9f2dba62-d37f-4109-942b-5a3ea25be6e8" CreationDate="2017-05-18T15:20:05.787" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7398" RevisionGUID="5f6d0642-658a-49fd-9c39-448877631f96" CreationDate="2017-05-18T17:42:21.647" UserId="6228" Text="My research so far has shown me it's [possible to replace or upgrade][1] the ASUS ROG G750JM's wifi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best wifi adapter to replace the ASUS ROG G750JM's internal wifi adapter? As I'm currently considering upgrading mine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adapter which comes with the laptop is: Broadcom 802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I acknowledge this thread topic has been discussed [(in 2014)][2] and the user *Dinooz* suggested: AzureWave (Broadcom) AWCE123H BCM94352HMB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the above thread is reasonably old, I wanted to confirm whether the AzureWave (Broadcom) AWCE123H BCM94352HMB is still the best wifi adapter to replace the ASUS ROG G750JM's internal wifi adapter, or whether a superior recommended replacement adapter now exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://youtu.be/qsv8Vtml-E0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?54171-ASUS-ROG-G750JM-wireless-adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22844" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7398" RevisionGUID="5f6d0642-658a-49fd-9c39-448877631f96" CreationDate="2017-05-18T17:42:21.647" UserId="6228" Text="What is the best wifi adapter to replace/upgrade the ASUS ROG G750JM's internal wifi adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22845" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7398" RevisionGUID="5f6d0642-658a-49fd-9c39-448877631f96" CreationDate="2017-05-18T17:42:21.647" UserId="6228" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22846" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="882a4857-d2c7-4cc7-ace6-f7fab5270e0f" CreationDate="2017-05-18T21:20:05.990" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22860" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7244" RevisionGUID="c1101d7a-82ef-44af-879e-0ef0e3034dbf" CreationDate="2017-05-19T19:37:20.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22862" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="30fd514b-3e2d-44c3-87fe-efe25294bbf5" CreationDate="2017-05-20T00:37:38.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22863" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7404" RevisionGUID="40386a54-45c3-47ae-ae54-c9a6f5d1fd4b" CreationDate="2017-05-20T09:53:44.367" UserId="6238" Text="I own a small cloud storage company and I was wondering what type of external hard drive/server I should purchase. I have considered [this][1]&#xD;&#xA;80TB one, but is there a better choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Technology-G-SPEED-Shuttle-0G05041-External/dp/B01LW83HZ5/ref=sr_1_7?srs=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22864" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7404" RevisionGUID="40386a54-45c3-47ae-ae54-c9a6f5d1fd4b" CreationDate="2017-05-20T09:53:44.367" UserId="6238" Text="Large external hard drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22865" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7404" RevisionGUID="40386a54-45c3-47ae-ae54-c9a6f5d1fd4b" CreationDate="2017-05-20T09:53:44.367" UserId="6238" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22867" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7405" RevisionGUID="9ecd948d-605c-4714-be1a-bb77311679d8" CreationDate="2017-05-20T19:01:47.497" UserId="6242" Text="We own a carwash. Our router is in the room where all of the soap, wax, chemicals etc are stored and dispensed. The room is pretty grimy all the time, humid, dust and moisture always in the air etc. We have replaced the router 3 times in the past 2 years because it keeps failing. Unfortunately, it's a &quot;self serve&quot; carwash meaning that there is no other place to have the router. (This room is literally the central hub of the carwash. All of the soap and chemicals come out of the room, networking is done in the room, credit card processing, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hesitant to put a router inside of a &quot;weatherproof&quot; case because the room tends to get pretty warm in the summer (Though, I don't have exact temps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on a router than can survive in this type of environment??" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22868" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7405" RevisionGUID="9ecd948d-605c-4714-be1a-bb77311679d8" CreationDate="2017-05-20T19:01:47.497" UserId="6242" Text="Looking for recommendations on a router than can survive in a factory-like environment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22869" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7405" RevisionGUID="9ecd948d-605c-4714-be1a-bb77311679d8" CreationDate="2017-05-20T19:01:47.497" UserId="6242" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7406" RevisionGUID="a9ff9ce7-d6ec-43a4-9ec0-7b19f6d83f1a" CreationDate="2017-05-20T22:06:58.687" UserId="223" Text="Has anyone information on the real-life power consumption of an Intel i3 7100T? I know that the thermal design power is rated 35W, but how much power does it need in idle or low workload situations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need this information since I want to compare this CPU to an Intel Pentium G4560, which has 19,5W in idle and 26W in low workload situations (according to [this video][1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to configure a home server that will run 24/7, so power consumption is important to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,  &#xD;&#xA;Lukas&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9JplrjV5Fw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22871" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7406" RevisionGUID="a9ff9ce7-d6ec-43a4-9ec0-7b19f6d83f1a" CreationDate="2017-05-20T22:06:58.687" UserId="223" Text="i3 3100T power consumption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22872" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7406" RevisionGUID="a9ff9ce7-d6ec-43a4-9ec0-7b19f6d83f1a" CreationDate="2017-05-20T22:06:58.687" UserId="223" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22874" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="ffd347b5-037b-4608-9255-f15769c5decd" CreationDate="2017-05-21T05:05:43.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7407" RevisionGUID="852ff319-e17e-4834-9775-e654b6ac1cdb" CreationDate="2017-05-21T06:51:43.263" UserId="6243" Text="I have a storage unit which is in the basement of typical townhouse-style apartment building in New York City. I can't set up internet in this room and I can't tap into any of the tenants wireless signals. The room has no windows and is in the middle of the building. I can't set up any equipment outside of the room, such as an antenna because the landlord wouldn't approve. Is there anything I can use to boost the neighborhood wireless signals I receive. Time Warner cable has a plan called Access Pass, where you pay a daily, weekly, or monthly fee and you can use their neighborhood wireless signal. But when I'm in the storage room I'm not able to receive the Time Warner signal. When I step out on the sidewalk I can receive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would a [Wifi Range Extender][1] be a good option for my circumstances?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495348282&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi%20range%20extender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22876" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7407" RevisionGUID="852ff319-e17e-4834-9775-e654b6ac1cdb" CreationDate="2017-05-21T06:51:43.263" UserId="6243" Text="Boost Neighborhood Wireless Reception" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22877" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7407" RevisionGUID="852ff319-e17e-4834-9775-e654b6ac1cdb" CreationDate="2017-05-21T06:51:43.263" UserId="6243" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22878" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="1d08f85e-4f0f-41d4-9665-2f6b8473b50a" CreationDate="2017-05-21T08:06:23.133" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7408" RevisionGUID="79ecfffc-8441-4f70-93f2-dd6a6dc1eb5e" CreationDate="2017-05-21T15:14:33.600" UserId="6247" Text="What's the hardware difference between the Dell XPS 15 starting at $999 (1637sv2) loaded with a Core i5 and GTX 1050 for $1,149 total and the XPS 15 starting at $1,349 (1641sv2) with all the basic options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at Dell's xps-15-9560-laptop site I specced the following laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/xps-15-9560-laptop/dncwxb1637sv2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core i5-7300HW processor (+$100 from base price)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GTX 1050 with 4GB GDDR5 video card (+$50 from base price)&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4-2400MHz ram&#xD;&#xA;- 500GB 720RPM Hard Drive + 32GB Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;- 56WHr battery&#xD;&#xA;- $1,149.99 cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/xps-15-9560-laptop/dncwxb1641sv2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Core i5-7300HW processor&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GTX 1050 with 4GB GDDR5 video card&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4-2400MHz ram&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB PCIe Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;- 97WHr battery&#xD;&#xA;- $1,349.99 cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than hard disk, battery, and cost, is anything different between the 1637sv2 and 1641sv2 as specced?  The $200 price difference seems a lot to pay just for a basic SSD and +73% battery capacity - although I guess for retail pricing that's probably par for the course.  Can I just buy the basic 1637sv2 model, swap in an SSD, upgrade the battery, and it'll be identical to the 1641sv2 model?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the 1637sv2 doesn't have an option to upgrade the processor to a Core i7 while the 1641sv2 does.  Are the motherboards significantly different?  At least the CPU sockets must be different, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any reason I should go with the more expensive 1641sv2 vs buying the 1637sv2 and swapping in the SSD and battery separately?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using the laptop for medical school, so want it to last at least 4 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7408" RevisionGUID="79ecfffc-8441-4f70-93f2-dd6a6dc1eb5e" CreationDate="2017-05-21T15:14:33.600" UserId="6247" Text="What is the difference between Dell XPS 15 1637sv2 (starting $999) and Dell XPS 15 1641sv2 (starting $1,349)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7408" RevisionGUID="79ecfffc-8441-4f70-93f2-dd6a6dc1eb5e" CreationDate="2017-05-21T15:14:33.600" UserId="6247" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22883" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7255" RevisionGUID="3ec44f66-a5ba-49c7-8877-70eb1dd5ba40" CreationDate="2017-05-21T18:42:13.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7410" RevisionGUID="41ab6a7c-9dce-49eb-8743-8cd49469bece" CreationDate="2017-05-21T20:02:36.647" UserId="6247" Text="I live in a large house and we have used range extenders in the past.  Currently we use an Edimax Pro like: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Dual-Band-Ceiling-Mount-Business-CAP1200/dp/B00UCKZ7SI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a little on the high end price wise.  We actually have it hooked up to an ethernet cable now but I believe it can be used as a wifi range extender as well.  Works great for us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to verify: the Time Warner neighborhood wireless signal you refer to is a wifi signal, not a cell signal, right?  If it's a wifi signal, you should just be able to choose a wifi range extender that's the lowest price for the range you need.  However if you have walls and doors between the source, range extender, and your room (which is sounds like you do), then get one with a much larger range than what you think you will need.  Our walls made the wifi die down pretty quickly, and we had to position the range extenders along long hallways to get network access where we needed it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the Time Warner neighborhood wireless signal is a cell signal, then you need to convert it to a wifi signal first using something like a MiFi in order to use a wifi range extender.  That gets pricey.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, wifi range extenders really increase network latency, so playing games that aren't turn based will be frustrating." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22885" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7315" RevisionGUID="f64b6a19-cd0d-4694-992a-db61e2e54470" CreationDate="2017-05-21T22:26:40.570" UserId="5445" Comment="edited title" Text="Cheapest available positional tracking VR headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7412" RevisionGUID="7ae14a7d-16b3-423d-b56a-96e00bcb0f2a" CreationDate="2017-05-22T02:43:26.187" UserDisplayName="user6249" Text="What keyboards exist that meet these specifications?:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Can't connect to the internet, even with a program.(Some keyboards require an internet connection or a configuration program that requires one.)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Does not have any type of padding that can come off from wear and tear or otherwise(I.e. dirt and glue won't be exposed from loose padding).&#xD;&#xA; 3. Is not wireless.&#xD;&#xA; 4. The keys light up.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Has chiclet keys(keys are lower and easier to reach than a normal keyboard) with space between the keys for easy cleaning.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Will endure a lot of use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22891" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7412" RevisionGUID="7ae14a7d-16b3-423d-b56a-96e00bcb0f2a" CreationDate="2017-05-22T02:43:26.187" UserDisplayName="user6249" Text="Wired, Light up, Keyboard with chiclet keys and no internet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22892" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7412" RevisionGUID="7ae14a7d-16b3-423d-b56a-96e00bcb0f2a" CreationDate="2017-05-22T02:43:26.187" UserDisplayName="user6249" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7413" RevisionGUID="375c8515-c64a-47e0-a3e4-f1523ba7f570" CreationDate="2017-05-22T04:10:14.173" UserId="6047" Text="You could consider a gaming keyboard, because they can take quite a bit of abuse and wear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Razer Deathstalker][2] is the first keyboard that comes to mind meeting your specifications, being a wired chiclet keyboard with backlighting. The keyboard also has anti-ghosting capabilities which helps prevent mis-types. If you want to maximize your price point, you could also consider the [non-back lit variant][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoIKp.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE4TS1920&amp;cm_re=razer_deathstalker-_-9SIA4RE4TS1920-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JX5290367&amp;cm_re=razer_deathstalker-_-9SIA1JX5290367-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7414" RevisionGUID="d36f02cf-915c-48ac-b0ae-95a4d67f9bc7" CreationDate="2017-05-22T04:31:40.757" UserId="5358" Text="Unless I am mistaken, your goal is to get wifi where there is none. Now I assume from your question that you cannot put the wifi extender anywhere OUTSIDE the room (the no antennas part of the question). Assuming this, you would need to put the extender INSIDE of the room. The problem with that is there is no wifi signal in the room, so the extender wouldn't have anything to extend! If I am reading your question correctly, the only way to get wifi into the room would be to run an Ethernet cable into the room and attach a router to create your own wifi network.&#xA;&#xA;**TL;DR:**. No, a wifi extender is not the hardware you are looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22898" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="dca8a233-2d3c-489f-9bd0-2d94ce9b8811" CreationDate="2017-05-22T07:01:45.173" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7416" RevisionGUID="9eaef557-d3df-4883-a332-6e5012ce6e13" CreationDate="2017-05-22T12:49:06.687" UserId="6250" Text="I have a 1000Mbps internet connection both up and down. And I'm thinking of upgrading my current config to a more robust and future proof configuration. Im thinking of the AES-NI support on the upcoming 2.5 pfSense version. I have been trying to wrap my head around pfSense, and I begin to understand that if your want to max throughput you need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Multiple cores at &gt; 2.0GHz are required. Server class hardware with PCI-e network adapters. [docs][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will probably have about 200 concurrent connections on different services behind the router, run suricata on OVPN on a few outgoing connections. And 1U case is necessary. Server hardware is a must (supermicro is cool).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the Intel Atom platform, for example the Supermicro motherboard model A1SRi-2758F, with Atom Processor C2758 TDP 20w, 2.40 Ghz, 4 mb cache, 8 cores and 8 threads. But I'm just no much of a router and hardware noob to tell if the Atom is enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Atom:&#xD;&#xA;==&#xD;&#xA; - AES-NI support, check.&#xD;&#xA; - Medium power consumption, check.&#xD;&#xA; - Fits in 1U,check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions on hardware to build a pfSense router?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pfsense.org/hardware/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22901" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7416" RevisionGUID="9eaef557-d3df-4883-a332-6e5012ce6e13" CreationDate="2017-05-22T12:49:06.687" UserId="6250" Text="Hardware for a pfSense router with 1000Mbps connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7416" RevisionGUID="9eaef557-d3df-4883-a332-6e5012ce6e13" CreationDate="2017-05-22T12:49:06.687" UserId="6250" Text="&lt;pfsense&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22904" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="8bd5d88e-3fae-4bcb-afa4-4b818d59083a" CreationDate="2017-05-23T00:36:02.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7418" RevisionGUID="d3b09118-bdda-4da2-8ab6-08a0a1e01ae5" CreationDate="2017-05-23T06:56:40.183" UserId="6253" Text="I am using the same thing on Linux, but it should not matter. I just install whole system on USB flash and setup in BIOS to boot from USB  first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now it finds the USB on start, boots from it, sets the whole system, connects to net and does the usuall daily tasks. I can connect remotly, setup encription and connect internal hard drives encrypted, if I need so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those internal HDDs contains just5 encrypted data, nothing else, the USB flash contains the full system and can be used to rescue any USB bootable computer (nearly any nowadays).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As flash is not good for too many writes, I load as much as possible of the system to memory at start and I set the logs to RAM disc entirly, so th USB can be read-only. Takes more time to boot (USB is always slower than native connection), but I do not care. I can get the system anywhere else leave the computer with encrypted data discs only, not being able to boot. I can use the flash on any other computer to get my system working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Windows case it would mean to install the windows on the USB only (or start with some rescue flash and expand its content, then maybe copy it to USB disc. The disc probably needs to be market &quot;bootable&quot; and you need to set the computer BIOS to boot first from remote media - either as default option, or as backup option and do not make internal disc bootable, or just press propper key on boot to select boot media from list of aviable devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I do not use Windows for many years (from when XP was hot new), I cannot provide step to step instruction, but maybe Windows are not so bad, that they would not enable &quot;rescue system&quot; to lay on USB media and to be customized ..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22910" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="30" RevisionGUID="20c1a271-ce16-4bdd-be5b-3bb20fec64af" CreationDate="2017-05-23T12:39:19.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://stackoverflow.com/ with https://stackoverflow.com/" Text="There are essentially two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A USB hub with power control, such as [this one](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush), which was designed for this purpose. It seems like some other USB hubs can do this too, check [this question](https://stackoverflow.com/q/3246077/4428462) over at StackOverflow for specifics and possibly other methods of doing this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. DIY, with a USB-controlled relay to switch the power to the usb device on and off, see [this blog post](http://pintant.cat/2012/05/12/power-off-usb-device/) for an illustration of how someone did it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Maybe fix the problem with your usb device ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2485" RevisionGUID="cddfcec2-d36f-471b-a580-e40a19659c39" CreationDate="2017-05-23T12:39:19.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://stackoverflow.com/ with https://stackoverflow.com/" Text="Referring to [**this answer**][1] (on stackoverflow) to develop application in Xamarin.iOS using Visual Studio on my Windows 10 PC i will need Mac with requirements listed below (it can be found in this [**link**][2]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac running **OS X Yosemite (10.10)** or higher (although we recommend the latest stable version).&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Xamarin iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA; - A Mac which can run **Apple’s Xcode(7+) IDE** and **iOS SDK**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has to be machine which will be used as a **Xamarin Mac Agent** (picture below) only I want it to be cheapest possible solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Xamarin Mac Agent description][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So at the end I will ask two questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. What is the cheapest **new** Mac which will fulfill my requirements and how much I will have to pay for it ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What Mac should I look for If I will decide to buy **used** Mac and&#xD;&#xA;    how much it will cost (theoretically, because of course price&#xD;&#xA;    depends on condition and it can vary) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Used examples:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will it be enough: [MacBook A1342][4] which can be found for around $130 in my country?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://stackoverflow.com/a/16158058/2585068&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.xamarin.com/guides/ios/getting_started/installation/windows/#Macintosh&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QedgZ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook/specs/macbook-core-2-duo-2.4-white-13-polycarbonate-unibody-mid-2010-specs.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6872" RevisionGUID="5dc931eb-0c65-4b83-9408-146f0df4bd58" CreationDate="2017-05-23T12:39:19.947" UserId="-1" Comment="replaced http://stackoverflow.com/ with https://stackoverflow.com/" Text="An old [software question of mine][1] looks like it would benefit from some hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests  - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I also need a dozen or two GPIO pins&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Possibilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat&#xD;&#xA;-	Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet (will also need a USB hub)&#xD;&#xA;-	[Netduino][2], plus RS232 shield &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I am also considering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Orange Pi][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Banana Pi][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Chip][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I am not sure how compatible they might be with Raspberry Pi peripherals &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.netduino.com/hardware/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepipc/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.banana-pi.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://getchip.com/pages/chip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7421" RevisionGUID="4cde6266-9f56-4953-b87c-12be7f5eabc8" CreationDate="2017-05-23T15:01:33.363" UserId="6" Text="I am in the market for new headphones. I currently have Sennheiser HD380 headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like noise cancelling. Most active noise cancelling headphones however have fairly weak passive noise cancelling. This means voices/etc come through _decently_ well. I'm also fairly spoiled in overall sound quality with my current HD380.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Similar sound quality to the HD380s&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless&#xD;&#xA; - &lt; $350ish&#xD;&#xA; - Decent active noise cancelling as well as some level of passive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Undecided requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Over-ear vs in-ear" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7421" RevisionGUID="4cde6266-9f56-4953-b87c-12be7f5eabc8" CreationDate="2017-05-23T15:01:33.363" UserId="6" Text="Active noise cancelling headphones with decent passive as well" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22919" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7421" RevisionGUID="4cde6266-9f56-4953-b87c-12be7f5eabc8" CreationDate="2017-05-23T15:01:33.363" UserId="6" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="f59fce64-1e89-429f-a527-23908ebffa9f" CreationDate="2017-05-23T16:47:37.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22926" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7423" RevisionGUID="90ed9447-232f-43e2-9e47-f39e33188e82" CreationDate="2017-05-24T08:33:30.137" UserId="6258" Text="I am looking for a low wattage CPU with relative high performance. I read on several places, that underclocking or undervolting cheaper normal processors (e.g. Xeon e3-1230v3) can have the same result as buying a rare and more expensive L or T version (e.g. Xeon e3-1230Lv3) of the same processor. Is this true, or should I buy the more expensive low wattage version?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22927" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7423" RevisionGUID="90ed9447-232f-43e2-9e47-f39e33188e82" CreationDate="2017-05-24T08:33:30.137" UserId="6258" Text="Is underclocked Xeon e3-1230v3 the same as e3-1230Lv3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22928" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7423" RevisionGUID="90ed9447-232f-43e2-9e47-f39e33188e82" CreationDate="2017-05-24T08:33:30.137" UserId="6258" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22932" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="cd65972a-bcda-461c-a9c3-dc4b4cf05987" CreationDate="2017-05-24T10:02:26.133" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7427" RevisionGUID="94c547e1-e273-4a7a-b2f6-a03725066ddb" CreationDate="2017-05-24T13:31:53.627" UserId="6219" Text="One possibility would be not to use the keyboard at all. The Tap is a new device that, after attaching to the fingers, allows one to write just tapping on whatever surface there is, the table, the sofa, even your (or so's) body.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it requires you to know the layout from memory, but the video shows a guy wearing some VR googles, so I think the actual keyboard (&amp;layout) can be virtual altogether. I'm not sure if it's commercially available though, so this is just a suggestion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: [The Tap][1] (project homepage)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tapwithus.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7429" RevisionGUID="8cc7c9a4-cce5-4451-be97-7036ca55ee01" CreationDate="2017-05-24T17:38:03.303" UserId="162" Text="I would like to attach a sata enclosure for RAID 5 with 5-6 drives (6TB each) that can connect at 6.0 GB speed to my workstation. I don't want to use &#xD;&#xA;USB 3.0. I understand I may need to buy a card that will control the RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen 8 drive boxes that appear as two sets of drives to the server. Are there any enclosures that will treat all 5 drives as a single RAID 5 setup? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7429" RevisionGUID="8cc7c9a4-cce5-4451-be97-7036ca55ee01" CreationDate="2017-05-24T17:38:03.303" UserId="162" Text="need sata raid box/enclosure" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7429" RevisionGUID="8cc7c9a4-cce5-4451-be97-7036ca55ee01" CreationDate="2017-05-24T17:38:03.303" UserId="162" Text="&lt;sata&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="481ea9c2-dfca-4812-9686-ef86f0d53eb1" CreationDate="2017-05-24T21:12:50.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22946" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="d48b94e5-4678-4f00-98a4-c06cfee15cee" CreationDate="2017-05-24T22:12:50.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7429" RevisionGUID="7812da54-294b-4429-b785-cb837dfd6c5d" CreationDate="2017-05-25T00:42:13.480" UserId="162" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="I would like to attach a sata enclosure for RAID 5 with 5-6 drives (6TB each) that can connect at 6.0 GB speed to my workstation. I don't want to use &#xD;&#xA;USB 3.0. I understand I may need to buy a card that will control the RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen 8 drive boxes that appear as two sets of drives to the server. Are there any enclosures that will treat all 5 drives as a single RAID 5 setup? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to get a machine that communicates via eSata 6.0 GB. I don't mind controlling the raid via a card installed on my computer. I don't mind RAID 5 (I would keep a spare in my desk). I would spend up to $700 on the enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22948" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="e869c4a6-8a9b-40c9-97a8-10e192661ca9" CreationDate="2017-05-25T00:44:48.477" UserId="1951" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I have two audio sources, both using 3.55mm &quot;headphone jack&quot; outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have one set of powered stereo speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to connect both sources to my single pair of speakers. Ideally, I'd like to be able to hear both sources at the same time, but this isn't absolutely necessary. I ABSOLUTELY do not want to have to press a button to manually switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need anything fancy—-no individual volume control or microphone inputs or anything like that. But I do want to avoid any significant loss of audio quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I do this for under $25? Or if that's completely unreasonable, how can I do it for as little money as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; While I suspect this won't matter since the audio is already analog, I play a lot of rhythm video games, so anything that introduces latency is a no-go.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7431" RevisionGUID="6f13e881-e667-4592-adfb-da1780d2c64c" CreationDate="2017-05-25T10:43:50.647" UserId="6265" Text="I'm looking for a tablet with pen input running a recent version of Android. The main purpose would be taking notes on PDF lecture slides during lectures at university. I would not use it to listen to music, watch movies or type long texts, I have a laptop for those things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Android OS, preferably version 7 (manufacturers who have updated their devices quickly in the past would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - good input responsiveness (I don't care about the kind of pen used as long as it works reliably)&#xD;&#xA; - battery life should be good&#xD;&#xA; - I would prefer the OS to be as vanilla as possible (might be hard to find)&#xD;&#xA; - a decent display (color temperature, contrast etc) would be nice, but not a must-have&#xD;&#xA; - system performance should be smooth&#xD;&#xA; - a case would also be nice to have but not mandatory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't want/need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I've included this section because reviewers often complained about these in reviews I read)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera (I don't care if it even has one)&#xD;&#xA; - 3G (I would only use WiFi)&#xD;&#xA; - A good sound system (would hardly ever use it)&#xD;&#xA; - good GPS (I would never use it)&#xD;&#xA; - extra features such as finger print scanners, Hardware keyboards&#xD;&#xA; - I also don't care much about weight and thickness, both seem to be in reasonable ranges in tablets nowadays&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have too strict of a budget, but I hope ~400€ would suffice (although, given good reasons, I'd be prepared to spend more, even a good amount more if it would really be worth it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hands-On experiences would be nice to hear, especially regarding pen input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7431" RevisionGUID="6f13e881-e667-4592-adfb-da1780d2c64c" CreationDate="2017-05-25T10:43:50.647" UserId="6265" Text="Android tablet with pen input" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7431" RevisionGUID="6f13e881-e667-4592-adfb-da1780d2c64c" CreationDate="2017-05-25T10:43:50.647" UserId="6265" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7431" RevisionGUID="d0cb984a-7629-4e08-9de2-4281701f55ac" CreationDate="2017-05-25T10:51:10.997" UserId="6265" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a tablet with pen input running a recent version of Android. The main purpose would be taking notes on PDF lecture slides during lectures at university. I would not use it to listen to music, watch movies or type long texts, I have a laptop for those things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Android OS, preferably version 7 (manufacturers who have updated their devices quickly in the past would be a bonus)&#xD;&#xA; - good input responsiveness (I don't care about the kind of pen used as long as it works reliably)&#xD;&#xA; - battery life should be good&#xD;&#xA; - I would prefer the OS to be as vanilla as possible (might be hard to find)&#xD;&#xA; - a decent display (color temperature, contrast etc) would be nice, but not a must-have&#xD;&#xA; - system performance should be smooth&#xD;&#xA; - a case would also be nice to have but not mandatory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't want/need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I've included this section because reviewers often complained about these in reviews I read)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A good camera (I don't care if it even has one)&#xD;&#xA; - 3G/LTE (I would only use WiFi)&#xD;&#xA; - A good sound system (would hardly ever use it)&#xD;&#xA; - good GPS (I would never use it)&#xD;&#xA; - extra features such as finger print scanners, Hardware keyboards&#xD;&#xA; - I also don't care much about weight and thickness, both seem to be in reasonable ranges in tablets nowadays&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have too strict of a budget, but I hope ~400€ would suffice (although, given good reasons, I'd be prepared to spend more, even a good amount more if it would really be worth it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hands-On experiences would be nice to hear, especially regarding pen input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7435" RevisionGUID="94c31296-1c79-4880-a75a-b53849c22ae5" CreationDate="2017-05-26T05:57:12.190" UserId="6047" Text="The answer is that it depends. If the one processor is faster than another, you can definitely under-volt the processor to slow it down. It would be dependent on how much you undervolt the processor, however. You might also want to note that you would want to make sure that your motherboard can support overclocking so you can ensure that you can actually mess around with the processor states and voltages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also note that the [power consumption is linear with frequency and exponential with voltage][1]. So you can also reduce the frequency on a cpu state to lower power consumption as well, but it is more effective to decrease voltage because it has a squared relationship with power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/34766/how-does-power-consumption-vary-with-the-processor-frequency-in-a-typical-comput" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7436" RevisionGUID="28afb662-8795-4775-b955-3581c2ff89bb" CreationDate="2017-05-26T07:12:09.133" UserId="6176" Text="I need a laptop for graphic design under 900$ (can go up to 1000$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MUST HAVE&#xD;&#xA;1. NOT ASUS&#xD;&#xA;2. must run photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect. fast and smooth.&#xD;&#xA;3. 14&quot; screen with viable resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;added value, but not must:&#xD;&#xA;1. light weight&#xD;&#xA;2. ssd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If &quot;must have&quot; can't be satisfied under 900$, please give the lowest price that does satisfy those requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22984" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7436" RevisionGUID="28afb662-8795-4775-b955-3581c2ff89bb" CreationDate="2017-05-26T07:12:09.133" UserId="6176" Text="I need a recommendation for a cheap laptop for graphic design" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22985" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7436" RevisionGUID="28afb662-8795-4775-b955-3581c2ff89bb" CreationDate="2017-05-26T07:12:09.133" UserId="6176" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22993" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="5bf521dd-160f-4a58-a0ce-68fc055b135d" CreationDate="2017-05-26T15:00:13.160" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="22998" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="91cf5ee5-9b34-4223-a064-b3ba5ded21ac" CreationDate="2017-05-26T19:03:18.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23003" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="0d298782-7ac0-464c-b273-c421c32c69cc" CreationDate="2017-05-26T22:03:34.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7443" RevisionGUID="d69e1aad-37fb-40d5-8913-d502a30c4329" CreationDate="2017-05-27T09:14:48.853" UserId="6276" Text="i have a lenovo computer (https://share.rtechsupport.org/files/8xdNnh1BEdOO_Sketch.png). i work usually with 5 tabs open in chrome, itunes always runnin, and photoshop and other application running. Do you think i will benefit from upgrading my ram from 8gb to 16gb. Thanks. NOTE- photoshop barely works. There is a 2 sec lag almost always. That's why i have to use sketchbook pro " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7443" RevisionGUID="d69e1aad-37fb-40d5-8913-d502a30c4329" CreationDate="2017-05-27T09:14:48.853" UserId="6276" Text="16 gb ram upgrade beneficial for photoshop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7443" RevisionGUID="d69e1aad-37fb-40d5-8913-d502a30c4329" CreationDate="2017-05-27T09:14:48.853" UserId="6276" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23011" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="58453dfd-e4d1-4614-b082-0802fb01a942" CreationDate="2017-05-27T11:08:47.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7444" RevisionGUID="c546b3c9-f3e2-47c1-bd9f-af7e552d6298" CreationDate="2017-05-27T11:49:26.337" UserId="6219" Text="Another possibility is this new **Apple** keyboard, that's to be put into 2018 **MacBooks**. It has e-ink keys and stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: [The Verge][1] (news site) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.theverge.com/2016/10/19/13328710/apple-e-ink-keyboard-macbook-sonder-rumors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7445" RevisionGUID="e1e6176f-6e0d-4fba-86f9-2cfe728813e0" CreationDate="2017-05-27T18:12:57.367" UserId="3630" Text="The 16GB will help a bit, but you'd be better off with 16GB **and** a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;Seriously, a SSD is probably the best upgrade investment you can make.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Executive summary: Give it a SSD and 16GB RAM - this will not only be &quot;beneficial&quot;, it will leverage your user experience to a completely different (higher) performance level.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7446" RevisionGUID="734d92dc-a760-4e9a-b76a-5e3d1edaff39" CreationDate="2017-05-27T19:19:19.327" UserId="2001" Text="I am not sure &quot;deadbolt&quot; is the correct term for what I am looking for. I am searching for the metal piece on the side of doors that extends to lock it, but one that can be controlled electronically (with Arduino).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing on the right of [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyt6pUXYY6A) is exactly what I want, but I can't seem to find anything like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know where I could find one of these, or at least what this would be called?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also open to other setups to lock a door, but the part I described above is preferable. It doesn't need to be very secure or anything; I mostly just want to make use of an RFID scanner." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7446" RevisionGUID="734d92dc-a760-4e9a-b76a-5e3d1edaff39" CreationDate="2017-05-27T19:19:19.327" UserId="2001" Text="Electronic Deadbolt for Door" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7446" RevisionGUID="734d92dc-a760-4e9a-b76a-5e3d1edaff39" CreationDate="2017-05-27T19:19:19.327" UserId="2001" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7443" RevisionGUID="ba9456b7-9fb3-4ab1-b097-90d10a3bf1f0" CreationDate="2017-05-27T21:04:39.200" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23019" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7447" RevisionGUID="f6615982-e098-4cdb-af9d-7cd99f94bac0" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:04:31.963" UserId="6247" Text="You might have the most success with installing an actual non-electronic deadbolt bought at a hardware store such as Home Depot (if one is not already installed), such as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vmOj4DII8I&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And then hooking up a servo motor controlled by an arduino (or similar) attached an RFID scanner to lock and unlock the deadbolt.  One possible bonus is that your servo and arduino + RFID setup will be portable to other doors.  One retail example is the Kevo Convert by Kwikset, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YY0_IrvXGE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7448" RevisionGUID="1ab0a39c-8864-4db4-92c4-b66ecd3f1431" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:06:24.347" UserId="2001" Text="I accidentally found the answer to my own question. What I am looking for suddenly happened to appear in my Amazon recommendations (even though I haven't searched for anything like this on Amazon), and found you can find a lot of electric door locks by searching &quot;open frame type solenoid&quot; including [this one](https://www.amazon.com/0837L-Open-Frame-Solenoid-Electric/dp/B00AOCAETQ), for example." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23021" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="4ea1d1dd-ac51-4088-bee4-b6c62dcb98f1" CreationDate="2017-05-27T23:28:26.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23022" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="69054041-68ac-439e-bc3a-0bb4efb93614" CreationDate="2017-05-28T01:34:30.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23023" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="72d030e4-4b89-46d4-afa5-9f68252469b1" CreationDate="2017-05-28T02:34:40.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7450" RevisionGUID="cc2f5960-0436-484a-83b3-1f6f167298fe" CreationDate="2017-05-28T09:31:35.063" UserId="6279" Text="The motherboard is better the Z170.&#xD;&#xA;for the CPU: if you must also editing videos and graphics design take the i7, if not take i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7451" RevisionGUID="d7fe76cf-6c04-4b17-b9cc-c1e4ccae2862" CreationDate="2017-05-28T10:13:15.843" UserId="6281" Text="I'm a first time computer builder and I want to know is every thing in this build compatible. -thanks&#xA;&#xA;- Intel - Core i3-7100 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor with stock cooler &#xA;&#xA;- MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard &#xA;&#xA;- Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory &#xA;&#xA;- Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive &#xA;&#xA;- EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card &#xA;&#xA;- Corsair - SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case &#xA;&#xA;- EVGA - 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23027" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7451" RevisionGUID="d7fe76cf-6c04-4b17-b9cc-c1e4ccae2862" CreationDate="2017-05-28T10:13:15.843" UserId="6281" Text="Is this PC build OK and compatible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23028" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7451" RevisionGUID="d7fe76cf-6c04-4b17-b9cc-c1e4ccae2862" CreationDate="2017-05-28T10:13:15.843" UserId="6281" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7452" RevisionGUID="7dae20b6-5d95-4c03-bbba-c4e6a493cfa2" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:20:21.663" UserId="6282" Text="I am looking for a cheap tablet that I can use with a stylus for primarily marking up pdfs. I spend a lot of my time doing architectural redlines and having to use a mouse to draw boxes and arrows and annotations is a waste of time, but so is printing out documents, marking them up and then scanning them back in to send to somebody. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Ideally, it would have a decent amount of RAM so it would not have to reload sections of the PDF on larger documents. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would require a fine point stylus rather than the ones like the older iPad styluses that were like trying to draw with a sausage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. A camera would be nice for going to site visits but is, by no means, a necessity. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I'm not married to any operating system, the functionality is the larger concern. Windows would be nice because that is what my company uses so I could use their software license pool for the PDF software but every OS has something similar. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5.  Size is not a major concern. Probably at least a 4x6 screen so I am not constantly trying to zoom in and out of the document but beyond that, I can manage. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7452" RevisionGUID="7dae20b6-5d95-4c03-bbba-c4e6a493cfa2" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:20:21.663" UserId="6282" Text="Cheap tablet with stylus for PDF markup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7452" RevisionGUID="7dae20b6-5d95-4c03-bbba-c4e6a493cfa2" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:20:21.663" UserId="6282" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23032" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="e7663a62-a696-4203-909c-1f1c43da2d4d" CreationDate="2017-05-28T15:43:22.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7453" RevisionGUID="fd78b078-7c27-4fc3-a6ca-20c80a5b685d" CreationDate="2017-05-28T21:21:32.377" UserId="6284" Text="I'm looking for an input device that mimics how the Wii/Wii-U operate using the sensor-bar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need it as a secondary mouse. So, a pointer of sorts that isn't just a clicker would be nice. Something that will let me move my mouse without having to actually drag it on something material.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure if anything like that exists though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7453" RevisionGUID="fd78b078-7c27-4fc3-a6ca-20c80a5b685d" CreationDate="2017-05-28T21:21:32.377" UserId="6284" Text="Input device that mimics wiimote to use as mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7453" RevisionGUID="fd78b078-7c27-4fc3-a6ca-20c80a5b685d" CreationDate="2017-05-28T21:21:32.377" UserId="6284" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7454" RevisionGUID="7ec24873-6649-4840-a4e0-13f8d6edf858" CreationDate="2017-05-29T00:38:46.723" UserId="6089" Text="I did a quick search using the terms &quot;gyro mouse,&quot; as devices of your description would have some form of internal solid state gyroscope to sense movement. One of the results can be found [on Amazon][1] with reasonably good reviews. I did not perform an exhaustive search, but I'd be confident to suggest that there would be similar products from other manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option which may be more challenging to implement while at the same time, rather high-techy/geeky/sci-fi implemtation is called the [Leap Motion Controller][3], also from Amazon. It uses a set of detectors in a rectangular puck over which one waves and/or places one's hands. Specific motions can be user-programmed for just about anything. I'm not aware of similar devices of this nature but then again, it's not your primary focus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Gyration-Wireless-Mouse-Plus-GYM1100NA/dp/B001KEGULI/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/osPGh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Leap-Motion-Controller-Packaging-Software/dp/B00HVYBWQO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQEgE.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7458" RevisionGUID="ad80ae4e-9abb-4408-bc10-82e744865ee3" CreationDate="2017-05-29T17:01:51.797" UserId="2001" Text="This is off-topic, but the build does seem compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your build seems compatible. The i3-7100 is a LGA 1151 processor and is compatible with the Z270-A PRO (might be a bit overkill for an i3 that can't even overclock). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard drives work pretty much in any build, unless they use some special interface like an M.2 (the one you chose does not and is compatible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want to refer to the motherboard supported list of RAM, but it should work fine in the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU is compatible with basically anything with a decent power supply (500W is enough) and a PCI-E x16 slot, which basically all motherboards have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, I would actually recommend that you cut on the costs of the motherboard and increase the cost of the CPU, unless you plan to upgrade to another LGA 1151 CPU in the future. If you go with AMD, you can get the [Ryzen 5 1400](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113437) which is much more powerful than the i3-7100, and the motherboards for it cost less. The Ryzen 5 1400 paired with something like [this](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144029) will cost slightly more ($20-$40) than your current build, but will perform much better and better fits the GTX 1060." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7458" RevisionGUID="e05ba845-62fb-4d5d-92ba-e6ad7dcb4900" CreationDate="2017-05-29T17:07:33.483" UserId="2001" Comment="deleted 29 characters in body" Text="This is off-topic, but the build does seem compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i3-7100 is a LGA 1151 processor and is compatible with the Z270-A PRO (might be a bit overkill for an i3 that can't even overclock). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard drives work pretty much in any build, unless they use some special interface like an M.2 (the one you chose does not and is compatible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want to refer to the motherboard supported list of RAM, but it should work fine in the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU is compatible with basically anything with a decent power supply (500W is enough) and a PCI-E x16 slot, which basically all motherboards have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, I would actually recommend that you cut on the costs of the motherboard and increase the cost of the CPU, unless you plan to upgrade to another LGA 1151 CPU in the future. If you go with AMD, you can get the [Ryzen 5 1400](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113437) which is much more powerful than the i3-7100, and the motherboards for it cost less. The Ryzen 5 1400 paired with something like [this](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144029) will cost slightly more ($20-$40) than your current build, but will perform much better and better fits the GTX 1060." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7460" RevisionGUID="b0e92852-ffa0-4368-8a86-b9e3edb6b4fb" CreationDate="2017-05-29T18:53:14.547" UserId="6233" Text="The Intel Pentium G4560 is a castrated i3 and hardly slower, maybe 10%. The Z-Board is a waste of money, especially if you do not overclock.&#xD;&#xA;RAM seems legit on first glance but you lose dual channel which needs 2 RAM sticks to get slightly more performance.&#xD;&#xA;Don't buy cards for around 200€ or more with only 3GB Video RAM, bad choice, rather go AMD with 8GB (470/570, 480/580) or Nvidia 6GB 1060.&#xD;&#xA;You have to  check if your stuff fits in the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget? The goal is to build a gaming PC, right? What games? Other tasks which the PC has to master? An SSD instead of an old HDD would greatly reduce all of your loading and startup times, makes the PC much more responsive but gives you (almost) nothing for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;Maximum and desired resolution (which is mostly GPU work)? Do you have some old hardware left? Etc. etc. Google and other tech/PC sites are a major help if you search a bit more, the forums there might also have guides which might answer your questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: compatible? Seems so (if it fits into the case which it probably does but I don't know). Ahh and the mentioned i3-like pentium costs like half of the i3 or maybe even less." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7461" RevisionGUID="31642ca0-74be-4542-a2ea-d7bcf83b32a9" CreationDate="2017-05-29T19:06:58.793" UserId="6287" Text="I have been looking to buy an GTX 10 series laptops, for the last month here in India, I need a laptop which would be able to play games on Med-High settings in the upcoming 4+ years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have browsed Amazon.com and many products are not available in India.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I have in mind is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2170 USD(140000 INR)&#xD;&#xA;HP OMEN - 17 inch - i7 7th Gen - GTX 1060TX - 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA;http://www.hpshopping.in/hp_omen_-_17-w249tx&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1550 USD(100000 INR)&#xD;&#xA;HP OMEN - 15.6 inch - i7 7th Gen - GTX 1050Ti - 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA;http://www.hpshopping.in/omen_by_hp_15-ax252tx_laptop_pc  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will probably get a monitor later, If I get the 15 inch one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would be the best, Also feel free to suggest some other choices, but I feel these are best within this range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7461" RevisionGUID="31642ca0-74be-4542-a2ea-d7bcf83b32a9" CreationDate="2017-05-29T19:06:58.793" UserId="6287" Text="Gaming laptop to buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7461" RevisionGUID="31642ca0-74be-4542-a2ea-d7bcf83b32a9" CreationDate="2017-05-29T19:06:58.793" UserId="6287" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7451" RevisionGUID="d704e9d5-2572-423f-a9a0-db1d5b8d4022" CreationDate="2017-05-29T20:22:10.847" UserId="6281" Comment="added 1 character in body; added 8 characters in body" Text="I'm a first time computer builder and I want to know is every thing in this build compatible. -thanks&#xA;&#xA;- Intel - Core i3-7100 kabylake 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor with stock cooler &#xA;&#xA;- MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard &#xA;&#xA;- Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory &#xA;&#xA;- Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive &#xA;&#xA;- EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card &#xA;&#xA;- Corsair - SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case &#xA;&#xA;- EVGA - 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23052" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7451" RevisionGUID="1fd6ea54-7aae-4829-a470-154173b1c3d7" CreationDate="2017-05-29T21:18:30.043" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7462" RevisionGUID="774b0f8d-a74b-40b2-9381-f4aeb43ca5bd" CreationDate="2017-05-29T23:36:55.243" UserId="6047" Text="Because you are requesting graphic design, I selected laptops that can take more graphics load over cpu load. I've avoided anything that relies on an integrated graphics card. I would recommend a SSD so that Adobe programs and files can load up quicker but that is just an added plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The cheapest option is an Acer Laptop Aspire:**&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It goes for 487$, has a NVIDIA 940MX and a i5 62000U. If you're not familiar with the intel letter system, the U means that it is a power saving core and, thus; it will have much less power that it's HQ, K, X, etc. counterparts. If you're looking for max savings this should do it, however, it comes with 8 GB of RAM so you may not be able to run too many adobe programs simultaneously without seeing a performance hit and the hard drive will likely be a bottleneck for laptop speed. If you go with this laptop you might want to consider buying a complimentary SSD to go along with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$487 at [Newegg][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**The next is HP Pavilion (I've had great success with the Pavilions in the past):**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a GTX 960 and a i5 6300HQ, and is a solid laptop although again, the hard drive might be a bottle neck (most laptop manufactures put nice components and a crappy hard drive in the laptop to bring down price but wow you with components). On the upside it is touchscreen, which might be a plus for art (probably not since you probably have a pressure sensitive drawing tablet if you do extensive graphic design) and the most amount of RAM of all the options at 12 GB. Be aware that the laptop is made of some crappy plastic, so the laptop may not be able to take the beating of an on the go active lifestyle banging around in a thin backpack and are notorious for splitting and cosmetic breakage. A solid option otherwise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$780 at [newegg][4] MSRP $900**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My personal favorite among the choices is the Dell Inspiron:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a i5 7300HQ and features 8GB of DDR4 RAM for faster &quot;natural&quot; operating speed (applications are loaded into memory). This laptop also comes with a 256 SSD which will make boot times, startup speed, and application startup absolutely glorious. Again the 8GB of RAM may get filled up if you open a lot of applications, but your SSD will be able to act as SWAP memory without slowing down your laptop extensively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$784 at [newegg][6] MSRP $1,100**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional notes:&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you go with the Acer or the HP, I would recommend turning on NTFS compression so that you can shift the laptop's operating load away from the hard drive and on to the CPU since both have decent processors (especially the HP). You should not turn compression on for the Dell option, because it has an SSD (In the interest of space, I won't go into detail about that reason here).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpkKx.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIACA15BX3642&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y2KHY.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC4Z5FG6865&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeHMr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9SK5S57529" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7463" RevisionGUID="b05fbc89-58d4-4845-9091-6f83dfc8358b" CreationDate="2017-05-30T04:13:43.273" UserId="5440" Text="This MSI (from Amazon India) is a 17&quot; and with the 8GB of 1070 grephic goodness it is even more powerfull than the 17&quot; HP in your link. And the RGB keabord isn't bad at all. But it is more expensive too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.in/dp/B01N6QUGZO/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496117351&amp;sr=1-5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;is also something takeing a look at. It is simmillarly specced to the 17&quot; HP (which is a lot better than the 15&quot; you linked).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.in/MSI-GE62VR-7RF-Apache-Pro/dp/B01NAKTV53/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496117103&amp;sr=1-2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7463" RevisionGUID="6e635906-d724-4c89-96a9-28b10b399a5a" CreationDate="2017-05-30T04:37:35.473" UserId="5440" Comment="Spelling" Text="This MSI (from Amazon India) is a 17&quot; and with the 8GB of 1070 graphic goodness, it is even more powerful than the 17&quot; HP in your link. And the RGB keyboard isn't bad at all. But it is more expensive too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.in/dp/B01N6QUGZO/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496117351&amp;sr=1-5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is also something worth taking a look at. It is similarly specced to the 17&quot; HP (which is a lot better than the 15&quot; you linked).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.amazon.in/MSI-GE62VR-7RF-Apache-Pro/dp/B01NAKTV53/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496117103&amp;sr=1-2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7466" RevisionGUID="23d4fc30-7bee-4808-b319-4b61f986ccec" CreationDate="2017-05-30T20:56:59.570" UserId="3788" Text="Not much progress since—until recently it seemed as if the best bets would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Use USB instead of Bluetooth. There are some Si470x tuner dongles out there for which open-source drivers exist. I have managed to port a driver to Android and get raw TMC data from the device via an Android app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Build your own hardware: The Si470x chip is also widely used in the single-board computer community with breakout boards available. These, however, have an I²C interface, so you would need a Bluetooth-I²C bridge, most of which expose a Bluetooth serial interface. Challenge: the Bluetooth-I²C bridges I’ve seen so far don’t seem to come as breakout boards. Solution: get a Bluetooth-UART bridge and a UART-I²C bridge, both of which are widely available as breakout boards. Once you’ve pieced this together, again, you will need to write a driver, again based on the existing Linux driver. The protocol is not hard to understand and well documented—SparkFun has links to the relevant documentation—so this should be doable for a somewhat experienced programmer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today, however, I came across something else: apparently, someone has made some [progress][1] in decoding the proprietary GNS protocol, which many of the TMC dongles on the market speak (both the USB and Bluetooth devices). Looks like something worth considering…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.matthiasbock.net/index.php/GNS_TMC_Protocol_(partly)_disclosed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7469" RevisionGUID="4f414749-a432-4342-981c-6fadec79a2d4" CreationDate="2017-05-31T05:56:25.013" UserId="2001" Text="I am not from India, and INR prices don't translate very well in my mind, but [this](https://www.flipkart.com/acer-aspire-vx-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-15-notebook/p/itmeshbcnh7fnhz8) seems about in your price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure that this would be available to ship to you (since I am not from India), but it seems that Flipkart is pretty big out there, so hopefully it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, this is considerably less powerful than the laptop you posted, but seems to also be somewhat cheaper. The CPU is the same, but the GPU is a 1050 (not Ti) instead of a 1060. It has 8GB of RAM instead of 16GB. I have a laptop with similar specifications to the one listed (better only in terms of RAM), and it performs very well. If you want to game in 1080p without anything like VR and don't always need the absolute highest settings, this should be adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a [US version](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N12YZ7B) of this notebook that has a better GPU for a really good price, but I was unable to locate this on any Indian site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck finding something that works for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7470" RevisionGUID="1ca9b18d-f0de-4f1b-8f43-e640bda9c61c" CreationDate="2017-05-31T07:01:06.623" UserId="2001" Text="The [Logitech G910 Orion Spark](https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126397) seems to fit your criteria. I am not a fan of the switches, but you might like them considering you want silent keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Newegg, it is about £10 more than your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is definitely backlit, has removable keys, and has software to customize the lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are 9 programmable keys, which can be used for basically anything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23074" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="c0696fde-fa9f-44ea-a157-1c329ec4e29e" CreationDate="2017-05-31T10:26:56.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="f87ab868-4af0-40a9-a8a3-8826580dcfbb" CreationDate="2017-05-31T11:49:07.723" UserId="6176" Text="I want to but this laptop for graphic design purposes (Photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect). No 3d for the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop Spec is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell Vostro 5568&#xD;&#xA;- Weight - 1.98 KG&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i7 7500U 2700 Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- geforce 940mx&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am most fearful of the graphics card, as it is not stated in the illustrator requirements &#xD;&#xA;https://helpx.adobe.com/il_he/illustrator/system-requirements.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really trying to keep the price and weight dows, and upping the graphics card won;t allow that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="f87ab868-4af0-40a9-a8a3-8826580dcfbb" CreationDate="2017-05-31T11:49:07.723" UserId="6176" Text="Is this laptop enough for graphic design?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="f87ab868-4af0-40a9-a8a3-8826580dcfbb" CreationDate="2017-05-31T11:49:07.723" UserId="6176" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="bbfbdf89-5ec4-40ea-a5c0-5ffb36c203f6" CreationDate="2017-05-31T13:04:12.140" UserId="6176" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body" Text="I want to but this laptop for graphic design purposes (Photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect). No 3d for the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop Spec is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell Vostro 5568&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i7 7500U 2700 Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- geforce 940mx&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am most fearful of the graphics card, as it is not stated in the illustrator requirements &#xD;&#xA;https://helpx.adobe.com/il_he/illustrator/system-requirements.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really trying to keep the price and weight dows, and upping the graphics card won;t allow that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23080" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="bbfbdf89-5ec4-40ea-a5c0-5ffb36c203f6" CreationDate="2017-05-31T13:04:12.140" UserId="6176" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body" Text="Is geforce 940mx enough for graphic design?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23089" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7396" RevisionGUID="fa8257e8-9d8e-45e0-8c01-87bc801d0057" CreationDate="2017-05-31T20:13:34.213" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23091" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7255" RevisionGUID="06e973a4-9602-4a6a-8f49-20fb026a5788" CreationDate="2017-05-31T20:14:01.670" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23097" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7404" RevisionGUID="3f94b252-66b6-4204-b8c7-ba8ced4ceea2" CreationDate="2017-05-31T20:15:29.457" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23098" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7452" RevisionGUID="f5fdb754-a20d-40ba-bb7a-84266ea9a95d" CreationDate="2017-05-31T23:14:37.867" UserId="6282" Comment="I updated the title to better reflect what I was looking for." Text="Is there an inexpensive tablet with a stylus that can handle large PDFs for markup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7480" RevisionGUID="de50b6f9-e9f4-4638-ac9c-b716c08a4276" CreationDate="2017-06-01T20:19:50.600" UserId="6310" Text="I was wanting to play with with Bluetooth 5 with some current code.  Does anyone know where I could get a bluetooth 5 (low energy HCI) adapter?  Preferably USB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7480" RevisionGUID="de50b6f9-e9f4-4638-ac9c-b716c08a4276" CreationDate="2017-06-01T20:19:50.600" UserId="6310" Text="Bluetooth 5 adapters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7480" RevisionGUID="de50b6f9-e9f4-4638-ac9c-b716c08a4276" CreationDate="2017-06-01T20:19:50.600" UserId="6310" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="73f67f7d-a2ce-4126-9363-9ce5239f2a0b" CreationDate="2017-06-01T23:46:24.833" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, formatting" Text="I want to build this laptop for graphic design purposes (Photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect). No 3D for the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop specifications are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell Vostro 5568&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i7 7500U 2700 Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- GeForce 940MX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am most fearful of the graphics card, as it is not listed in the [Illustrator requirements](https://helpx.adobe.com/il_he/illustrator/system-requirements.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it good enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really trying to keep the price and weight down, and upping the graphics card won't allow that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23120" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="73f67f7d-a2ce-4126-9363-9ce5239f2a0b" CreationDate="2017-06-01T23:46:24.833" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, formatting" Text="Is the GeForce 940MX good enough for graphic design?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="73f67f7d-a2ce-4126-9363-9ce5239f2a0b" CreationDate="2017-06-01T23:46:24.833" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, formatting" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7471" RevisionGUID="73f67f7d-a2ce-4126-9363-9ce5239f2a0b" CreationDate="2017-06-01T23:46:24.833" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 60, 155 edit id of 597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23124" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="eb2318d4-bc78-4784-ac1d-fccd899d41c5" CreationDate="2017-06-02T03:16:13.487" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7482" RevisionGUID="c1b0ee94-d4ba-435d-8114-1404d2d7218c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T06:33:55.770" UserId="6081" Text="I need a new laser printer for general (paper) usage. Normally, I'd get &quot;whatever&quot;, nothing fancy; I do not have high volume, speed nor quality requirements. I have been very happy with my Samsung ML-1865W, but it's starting to show its age a little bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One area where that printer failed for me was printing solid, deep black areas (for PCB creation, in my case). There were always, from the beginning, stripes and occasional white spots. It obviously gets worse as the toner empties, but even with a brand new toner cartridge it is not optimal. Not *too* bad, mind, you can somewhat use it for that purpose, but it's not really fun.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In contrast, the expensive Xerox at my office produces pitch black, very nicely resolved images that lead to 100% perfect results on the PCB, but it obviously takes up like 0.5m³ of space, so is not really an option for home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now. I'm looking for a general home usage laser printer which manages to produce consistent black areas. Everything else is not important. It will be driven by a windows machine and I don't mind whether it's connected via USB, Ethernet or WIFI (one of the latter two would be a nice bonus, of course). Form factor should be similar to the Samsung at 13.4&quot; x 8.8&quot; x 7.2&quot; (somewhere in that ball park, does not need to be exact of course). Manual feed is optional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23129" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7482" RevisionGUID="c1b0ee94-d4ba-435d-8114-1404d2d7218c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T06:33:55.770" UserId="6081" Text="Laser printer for PCBs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7482" RevisionGUID="c1b0ee94-d4ba-435d-8114-1404d2d7218c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T06:33:55.770" UserId="6081" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7483" RevisionGUID="2781bdcf-08cc-4346-9bad-b27df9d4190c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T06:47:19.550" UserId="6047" Text="It's quite hard to find inexpensive tablets that also come with good touchscreen accuracy and most tablets will try and make you pay the price for nice components. That being said I've tried to keep these options under a 700$ cap and focused on fulfilling your request of decent memory where 8gb should be more than enough for pdf editing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheap option: Dell Latitude ($390)&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Dell Latitude][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This option comes with a **Intel Core M5 6Y57** which is relatively weak as a processor but **should be more than enough for word processing**. The tablet also comes with a **256 GB SSD which should allow you to load documents extremely quickly** and should also help with boot times. As requested this tablet comes with **8 GB Memory which should be more than enough for PDF processing**. I don't have much experience with these types of tablets so the **touchscreen may have something left to desire** although the $800 MSRP seems to suggest that you should have a decent touchscreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This option sells for **$390** (MSRP $800) at [Newegg][2] with free shipping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The premium option: Microsoft Surface Pro ($538)&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Microsoft Surface Pro 3][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Microsoft Surface line is one of Microsoft's flagship products purposely **designed to combat the style and premium feel of apple laptops** and as such usually comes with a higher price tag. I've personally experienced these devices as one of my close friend **speaks highly of the device and uses it for notes in his University lectures**. One of my professors also **used this device to draw out diagrams during his lectures on the screen and did so extremely well**, I might add.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it does have a **i5-4300U processor** (the U tag denotes that it is a power saving processor and as such has slower performance than it's HQ, K, X, etc. counterparts) it is still has **more than enough speed for lightweight pdf editing**. It also comes with a **256 GB SSD and 8GB memory**. The added plus is that the **stylus is integrated into the pad for easy storage and the pen itself has a very fine, premium feel to it**. I should also mention that the **screen has 2k resolution (twice that of 1080p) which will make editing pdfs much more enjoyable to your eyes**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a price tag of **$538** (MSRP $800) at [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5HA5R12212) with free shipping **this is a solid choice if you can afford it**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuTnQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9H65HS4984&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6mZI7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="50a24342-90bd-492e-9956-837942365ff2" CreationDate="2017-06-02T10:30:36.360" UserId="6312" Text="Which is good Mac laptop for development `MacBook Pro MD101HN/A` or `MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A`, In 2017 is it worth buying MacBook Pro(MD101HN/A)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`MacBook Pro MD101HN/A` (Late 2012 Model) is upgradable, In 2017 is it worth buying MacBook Pro MD101HN/A?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A`, released in 2016 has 8GB Ram, but processor is 1.6 GHz, does that make the machine slow ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest if any other Mac is good for development, budget is constraint(80K INR).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="50a24342-90bd-492e-9956-837942365ff2" CreationDate="2017-06-02T10:30:36.360" UserId="6312" Text="MacBook for iOS development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="50a24342-90bd-492e-9956-837942365ff2" CreationDate="2017-06-02T10:30:36.360" UserId="6312" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7486" RevisionGUID="30f0fe5e-b453-4ca1-852e-f206e5e3a04a" CreationDate="2017-06-02T13:20:41.773" UserId="2188" Text="Yes, it is more than enough. &#xD;&#xA;You should notice that this card is listed in the website as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; NVIDIA GeForce GTX Series (4xx, 5xx, 6xx, 7xx, 9xx, Titan)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also far more powerful than any of the Intel iGPUs listed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that 2D-focused work stresses out the CPU more than the GPU, and that i7-7500u might slow you down a bit since it's a dual-core CPU. I'd recommend you a laptop with a better CPU and cheaper GPU instead of that Vostro if you plan on doing only 2D graphic design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for personal experience, I have a laptop with a i5-4210u and a GeForce 840m and it ran Photoshop CC flawlessly (even the integrated HD Graphics 4400 was able to handle it fine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="5c05b46c-2b63-4714-9b70-07f087eecd5b" CreationDate="2017-06-02T13:24:21.013" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23147" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="0323488b-1dd5-4843-a907-8b09a0929276" CreationDate="2017-06-02T14:24:21.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7487" RevisionGUID="be6b892c-bde2-4234-96c2-df652d8fb9a9" CreationDate="2017-06-02T15:35:28.760" UserId="6308" Text="I'm looking for a mini PC to run Ubuntu 16.04 LTS 64-bits version with a web server (LAMP) on it. The criterias would be, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low power cunsumption  &#xD;&#xA;the mini pc will be running 24*7&#xD;&#xA; - Fanless  &#xD;&#xA;the idea is to have as few movable parts as possible and as low noise as possible  &#xD;&#xA; - support Linux and Windows  &#xD;&#xA;it will be running latest Ubuntu 16.04 LTS 64 bits version, with a web server running on it (Apache/MySQL/PHP). But I want to be able to switch to Windows 7/8/10 if I want to.  &#xD;&#xA; - CPU  &#xD;&#xA;a cpu that is **low power cunsumption** and permits to run smoothly with the given starting config (Ubuntu 16.04 LTS + Web Server) &#xD;&#xA; - RAM  &#xD;&#xA;support minimum 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - HardDrive  &#xD;&#xA;support for 2 internal HD (1 SSD drive &gt;= 64 GB and 1 SATA &gt;= 2TB)  &#xD;&#xA;OS will be on SSD and data will be on SATA&#xD;&#xA; - Network  &#xD;&#xA;minimum  1 Ethernet + 1 Wifi&#xD;&#xA; - Ports  &#xD;&#xA;usual ports : 4 USB (mix of 2.0 and 3.0), 1 HDMI, 1 VGA, 1 audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give a usage idea, it would be used by a small office (&lt;= 10 users) as office web server.  &#xD;&#xA;If you have a price range for such config I take it too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7487" RevisionGUID="be6b892c-bde2-4234-96c2-df652d8fb9a9" CreationDate="2017-06-02T15:35:28.760" UserId="6308" Text="Mini PC - low power cunsumption - fanless - running 24*7 - Ubuntu 16.04 LTS 64-bits" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7487" RevisionGUID="be6b892c-bde2-4234-96c2-df652d8fb9a9" CreationDate="2017-06-02T15:35:28.760" UserId="6308" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="52f8bbd8-80c5-46b4-b59b-8827369c3f7c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T16:44:21.707" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, formatting, duplicate sentence removed" Text="Which is a good Mac laptop for development: the MacBook Pro MD101HN/A or the MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A. In 2017, is it worth buying a MacBook Pro(MD101HN/A)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Pro MD101HN/A (Late 2012 Model) is upgradeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A, released in 2016 has 8GB Ram, but its processor is 1.6 GHz, does that make the machine slow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest if any other Mac is good for development, the budget is the constraint (80K INR)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="52f8bbd8-80c5-46b4-b59b-8827369c3f7c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T16:44:21.707" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, formatting, duplicate sentence removed" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23154" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="52f8bbd8-80c5-46b4-b59b-8827369c3f7c" CreationDate="2017-06-02T16:44:21.707" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57, 60 edit id of 598" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7488" RevisionGUID="0b0632ed-e0dd-4732-8f5a-38223ec0adc2" CreationDate="2017-06-02T16:46:13.743" UserId="6315" Text="You might take a look at a company called Logic Supply. They make an array of pretty decent mini-pc fanless computers. They ask a premium for more memory though, most of their older model's top out at 8GB of ram and I found several that advertise a maximum of 32GB of RAM but wouldn't let you configure more than 16GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This one](https://www.logicsupply.com/ml600g-10/) offers ECC memory, but their online configuration tool only allows up to 8GB of RAM, so you'd either need to talk with them directly or modify it yourself (which might void your warranty, not sure). Look around though, Logic Supply has a lot of models and each model has a lot of configuration options. If you don't see what you want, call them up and ask, they gave me good service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another possible contender is the [Compulab Airtop](http://airtop-pc.com/airtop/). It comes in several different models, including one intended for server use with ECC memory and RAID. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There aren't very many companies making computers without fans right now. At a previous job I was looking for small fanless PCs for a factory floor and eventually stumbled into Logic Supply. I left before we'd done more than put a few units out for evaluation, but they ran flawlessly 24-7 for the 6months or so before I left. I had no problems with their sales and support guys either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've never had a compulab computer, but the specs look good and its gotten some good reviews. Thought it was worth the comparison anyway!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do your research, and good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7489" RevisionGUID="938d185f-3689-44ce-9d54-0b1bf93fc2ac" CreationDate="2017-06-02T18:22:01.503" UserId="6315" Text="I got an Acer Aspire V Nitro laptop last year for my wife to game on and it has been fantastic. It didn't come with a lot of bloatware, if we're doing normal internet/video/etc it will last 5 or more hours on a charge, it's screen has deliciously vibrant colors, and it runs all our games smooth and fast. I understand you don't necessarily need the ability to play games, but reaching that far means it should handle photoshop for years to come, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[$1300 option][1]: This model I think hits all your checkmarks plus a few of mine. Comparison Notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB hard drive + 256GB SSD. Windows and programs will install on the SSD so that you get really fantastic start speeds. If you haven't yet seen photoshop start on a PC with an SSD, you're in for a treat. 1TB is about as big as you're going to get stock in a laptop.&#xD;&#xA; - 5.7lbs, a little bit heavier than the $850 option below. Probably still won't feel heavy though. Mine is 5lbs and it doesn't feel like a gaming laptop. It could easily masquerade as a cheap walmart special.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[$850 option][2]: This one's a refurbished previous generation model for considerably less. Comparison Notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This model lacks the SSD, which means it will take a little longer to boot and to open Photoshop. Still, it should do well enough. &#xD;&#xA; - The processor is the same i7, just 1 generation previous. Means that the $1300 option will have maybe 10% more cpu power. You won't notice it.&#xD;&#xA; - The GPU is considerably less powerful than the $1300's. If you were playing games, you'd have to tune some of them back from ultimate settings. But, you aren't playing games and this will already be overkill for photoshop and illustrator. So that doesn't really matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, you'd probably be just as happy with the $850 option. In fact, if it had the dual SSD/HDD configuration, I wouldn't even mention the more expensive option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good Luck!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NH.Q23AA.002&#xD;&#xA;[2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000X-00P41&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="821ed593-4bc0-4264-847c-6b34cf46a315" CreationDate="2017-06-02T20:22:13.547" UserId="6316" Text="Thanks you for this wonderful community.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of $10000-15000 for buying a desktop/server which will be running 24*7. I will mainly use it for handling big datasets (20 million observations), running regressions, etc. I mainly use SQL, R, Stata for my data management/ analysis. Some of my codes are quite computationally intensive and might take days to run (think simulations, MCMC, MLE, etc.). I am currently undecided between going the Windows server route or having a linux setup. I am leaning towards Windows right now, due to better software availability.&#xD;&#xA;Since this is a significant investment, I would also like this system to be future-proof, i.e., easily upgradable. I also want this system to be able to backup my data on a spare drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Request your recommendations. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23158" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="821ed593-4bc0-4264-847c-6b34cf46a315" CreationDate="2017-06-02T20:22:13.547" UserId="6316" Text="Recommended Computer/ Server for Statistician (budget $1000-15000)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23159" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="821ed593-4bc0-4264-847c-6b34cf46a315" CreationDate="2017-06-02T20:22:13.547" UserId="6316" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7492" RevisionGUID="ca6d2461-6792-4460-8113-09b02ec561a0" CreationDate="2017-06-03T13:19:07.327" UserId="1" Text="First, see [the megahertz myth](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megahertz_myth) - you can't compare processors from four years apart based solely on clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either machine would be great for iOS development. A couple things to note:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I use a 2012 13&quot; Pro as a daily driver. I put a [Crucial MX300 SSD][1] in it and it's a great machine.&#xD;&#xA; 1. You'll be able to buy the 2012 for significantly cheaper, and it'll hold value slightly better (all Macs hold their value immensely well).&#xD;&#xA; 1. You need to be able to run the latest version of macOS for iOS development. Based on patterns, I suspect the 2012 Pro has 2-3 years of support left. A 2016 machine likely has 6-7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you get the 2012 Pro, buy an SSD along with it. It makes a huge difference compared to a hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, I think it comes down to your specific situation. If your company is buying a laptop for you, go get the 2016 Air - then you don't have to open it up, and they get a laptop that's useful for a longer period of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're using your personal funds, I'd probably lean toward a 2012 Pro. If done properly, you should be able to sell it in a couple of years at a minimal loss. I bought mine in 2014 for $800, and could still get ~$600 easily. $200 + $99 for the SSD isn't bad at all for three years of solid use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD68" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7494" RevisionGUID="71e8f641-7740-4cab-8f22-026d4129af59" CreationDate="2017-06-03T14:00:25.297" UserId="6320" Text="I use [MacBook Pro 13&quot; Mid 2014 - 512 GB model](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.8-13-mid-2014-retina-display-specs.html). It is slightly upgraded from the base model (CPU from 2.7 GHz to 2.8 GHz and SSD from 128/256 to 512 GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want upgradeability I think I would go for Pro 2012 as Undo said. I wish I could compare them but I don't have any experiences with other Macs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2014 model is a bit faster than 2012 in terms of storage speed because SATA 3 (tops around 520 MB/s) is slower than PCIe x2 that 2014 model uses. [Here](http://i.imgur.com/6OnH0Bv.png) is my speed test with stress set to 1 GB. On 5 GB stress the write peaks at 680 MB/s and then goes down to 390 MB/s." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7495" RevisionGUID="8b7b7f5a-f47f-4c65-ad0d-416f9a387586" CreationDate="2017-06-03T14:27:24.213" UserId="6320" Text="Hostapd is hard to set up if you don't know what you are doing. I've had the same issue, I just couldn't make it work so I searched and found [this](https://github.com/oblique/create_ap) beautiful script called **create_ap**. It can create a wifi network with a single command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that still doesn't work, you can buy some travel router (for example TP-LINK TL-WR710N, it is the first thing I found) and you can just connect your Lenovo with the router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to make it smaller, you can use [Raspberry Pi](https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/) as your storage server and in the best case scenario you can power it via USB that is on the router. Unfortunately, I can't find how much current does that USB have so I'm not sure if it will be enough for RPi and you will probably need a second power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Raspberry Pi Model 3 does have wifi but using create_ap might not be that stable. I've tried create_ap on Orange Pi Zero (cheaper knockoff of RPi) and it didn't even create a wifi network. I'd rather go for router + RPi combo. That way you will have reliable wifi network with decent range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7496" RevisionGUID="15103f89-cb29-41cb-a201-86946a145d2d" CreationDate="2017-06-03T17:11:01.797" UserId="6320" Text="I know it is not totally fanless, but Intel NUCs are pretty good for what you want. They aren't that expensive and have pretty good performance and upgradeability and they are small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example [this one](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc7i5bnh.html) has maximum memory size of 32 GB, M.2 and 2.5&quot; drive bays, 4 USBs. It doesn't have VGA though, instead you get HDMI 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is much more of them [here](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits.html), or you can even build your own." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23173" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="6dcf7f84-73d3-4f97-9491-a36091a0a671" CreationDate="2017-06-03T17:42:01.427" UserId="6320" Comment="fixed budget in the title according to the question" Text="Recommended Computer/ Server for Statistician (budget $10000-15000)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="6dcf7f84-73d3-4f97-9491-a36091a0a671" CreationDate="2017-06-03T17:42:01.427" Comment="Proposed by 6320 approved by 8 edit id of 599" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7498" RevisionGUID="6260bd3e-3f7e-4e6a-b1ff-1ecaf2db49e6" CreationDate="2017-06-03T20:04:31.583" UserId="6324" Text="I live in a place where the electricity quality is poor. If I plug my desktop computer directly into the wall, it ends up damaged after some days due to unstable electricity. I have used an UPS for some years, which solved the problem, but its batteries last only for a few years, what makes it an expensive solution on the long term.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard about Automatic Voltage Regulators and I would like to know if they would solve my problem. I'm not worried about loss of data due to occasional power failures, since that is not really a problem here, I would just need to protect my computer from damage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options do I have to protect my computer from bad quality electricity? Would Automatic Voltage Regulators be a good alternative to a UPS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7498" RevisionGUID="6260bd3e-3f7e-4e6a-b1ff-1ecaf2db49e6" CreationDate="2017-06-03T20:04:31.583" UserId="6324" Text="Alternatives to UPS to protect a computer from unstable electricity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23180" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7498" RevisionGUID="6260bd3e-3f7e-4e6a-b1ff-1ecaf2db49e6" CreationDate="2017-06-03T20:04:31.583" UserId="6324" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;ups&gt;&lt;power-converter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="95ed8f07-d68b-4677-9f79-d3968116223f" CreationDate="2017-06-04T12:35:42.533" UserId="6328" Text="is there a device which converts the incoming lan signals into wifi signals? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The apartment only has a fixed network ip with a predetermined gateway and DNS. One needs to give this static ip, netmask and gateway in the network configuration of the computer and it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I would like to use smart phones to access the network. Hence the static settings should be done in the device ( maybe it is  is called an lan to wifi adaptor  ) itself . Ofcourse, I do not want an expensive ADSL or DSL because I do not need the modem functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it would be great to know how this network device works i.e how does it give the IP addresses to the connected devices - may be using NAT?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help with links what I should look for, would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23188" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="95ed8f07-d68b-4677-9f79-d3968116223f" CreationDate="2017-06-04T12:35:42.533" UserId="6328" Text="LAN to WIFI Adaptor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23189" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="95ed8f07-d68b-4677-9f79-d3968116223f" CreationDate="2017-06-04T12:35:42.533" UserId="6328" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23191" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7498" RevisionGUID="24dbd701-af41-4738-b87e-8d43c519f673" CreationDate="2017-06-04T13:05:55.800" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="f1508dcd-8d41-43a7-b52d-3ff23ee439c0" CreationDate="2017-06-04T13:39:48.677" UserId="6331" Text="I've been playing games for a long time now and most sound systems or headsets I've had, have the problem of not being able to differentiate up from down. They may give you the info of where the sound is coming from in a 360 degree circle around you, but not in a sphere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, that's what I want, I want to be able to tell whether a sound is coming from above or below or neither (same elevation). I've looked at 7.1 headsets but they have the front, rear and side speakers. I haven't been able to find anything else." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23194" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="f1508dcd-8d41-43a7-b52d-3ff23ee439c0" CreationDate="2017-06-04T13:39:48.677" UserId="6331" Text="Is there a headset/headphones that can differentiate up from down?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23195" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="f1508dcd-8d41-43a7-b52d-3ff23ee439c0" CreationDate="2017-06-04T13:39:48.677" UserId="6331" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7502" RevisionGUID="41a43556-2a2c-4baf-9593-e5e1e850bd24" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:09:41.543" UserId="6332" Text="I wanted to find something like this a while ago. Unfortunately, it's not a simple matter of just getting the hardware, as the game developers would have to build support for these headphones into the game, and they haven't done so as the hardware doesn't exist to my knowledge." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7503" RevisionGUID="d1e4d66d-915d-4256-be6c-1c8a314cc636" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:11:05.530" UserId="1578" Text="Are there any arm SOCs with large mounts of ram such as 16Gb ? Several phones have come out with 8Gb ram, so I expected the same developments to happen in the SOC sector. I believe there are ARM based data centre servers with high ram loads too. Why is this the case, is it due to the cost and the market these devices are aimed at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7503" RevisionGUID="d1e4d66d-915d-4256-be6c-1c8a314cc636" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:11:05.530" UserId="1578" Text="SOC with more than 4Gb ram?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7503" RevisionGUID="d1e4d66d-915d-4256-be6c-1c8a314cc636" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:11:05.530" UserId="1578" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23200" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6138" RevisionGUID="19bd142b-9a7e-4221-bfc4-0388ce900e6b" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:13:54.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23201" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7504" RevisionGUID="701d0f3a-285d-4718-b723-636f15969e39" CreationDate="2017-06-04T18:39:54.420" UserId="6333" Text="I'm looking for a simple camera that has good quality. Requirements are that it can be zoomed in (will be zoomed once only), can be mounted through my own means, so preferably not spherical, and take good quality pictures. It is going to be used to take pictures of tubes with QR codes on top of it, with it being affixed to one position on the machine and zoomed in slightly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally looking for a good cost to quality ratio for this simple task. Around the $50 area would be excellent." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23202" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7504" RevisionGUID="701d0f3a-285d-4718-b723-636f15969e39" CreationDate="2017-06-04T18:39:54.420" UserId="6333" Text="Simple Camera or webcam to take pictures from a fixed location" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23203" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7504" RevisionGUID="701d0f3a-285d-4718-b723-636f15969e39" CreationDate="2017-06-04T18:39:54.420" UserId="6333" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7505" RevisionGUID="26b9b0ca-63f8-494d-bd93-a65d4cfb5d93" CreationDate="2017-06-04T22:22:05.707" UserId="1716" Text="I have USB plugs with the output on the same side as the Live prong:&#xA;&#xA;[![l][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;[Source][2]&#xA;&#xA;This means more than one plugged in next to each other in a multigang will often &quot;bump&quot; USB cables.&#xA;&#xA;Can I buy a multigang with the sockets rotated 90°? Kinda like my diagram:&#xA;&#xA;[![][3]][3]&#xA;&#xA;[Source][4], edited with [Over][5]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAmwN.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Portable-Charger-Smartphone-Devices/dp/B00G9YK4Z2&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/26mD9.jpg&#xA;  [4]: http://www.diy4u.co.uk/Category/trailing-sockets-extension-leads-surge-protection&#xA;  [5]: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/over-edit-photos-add-text-images-to-pictures/id535811906?mt=8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7505" RevisionGUID="26b9b0ca-63f8-494d-bd93-a65d4cfb5d93" CreationDate="2017-06-04T22:22:05.707" UserId="1716" Text="A multigang extension with rotated sockets (UK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7505" RevisionGUID="26b9b0ca-63f8-494d-bd93-a65d4cfb5d93" CreationDate="2017-06-04T22:22:05.707" UserId="1716" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23207" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7506" RevisionGUID="c73a8723-f7a4-44bf-9bef-525b746dc5ab" CreationDate="2017-06-04T23:29:21.873" UserId="6089" Text="This is but one example of my understanding of your objective:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Power strip Rotating Sockets UK][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has the added benefit of providing a pair (or more) of USB outlets. I do not suggest this is the single best answer, as my search returned far more results than is possible to post here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using The Google with the terms &quot;power strip rotating sockets UK&quot; may be the best way for you to find the item to best fit your budget and requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Degree-Rotating-Intelligent-Vertical-Protection/dp/B01LKYF9A0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWYg5.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7507" RevisionGUID="0d90cb34-dd77-45d5-a500-e76445779afd" CreationDate="2017-06-05T00:13:46.383" UserId="6047" Text="At the level of components you want I would recommend a gaming laptop. Being built with high performance components meant for gaming, it turns out that like games; 3D modeling can also leverage the same high performance GPUs and CPUs available for gaming laptops that complex 3D games do. As an added plus, gaming laptops typically ship with anti-ghosting linear switch keys that make for a great typing experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the [MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][1] ($1,100) at Newegg&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key features on the laptop include a powerful **GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB GDDR5** and an **Intel Core i7-7700HQ**.  These components are much more than adequate at driving the latest 3D modeling software. It also comes with a full **16GB of DDR4 RAM** which have faster RAM clock speeds than the usual DDR3 for faster application loading speed as well as a glorious **512 GB M.2 SATA SSD** with **sequential read and write speeds in the 2 GB/s range**. This laptop ships with MSI's signature linear switch laptop keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is overkill for your purposes but at a price tag of **$1,100** makes this laptop perfect for you and will hold you over for a very long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Additional notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to mention that you're unlikely to find laptops that 6 hour battery life without compromising on the performance of the laptop. Intel, for example, purposely has it's U series processors which offer power savings at the trade off of cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tl1wK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7508" RevisionGUID="e0a7c15b-e535-4562-bee7-4a99c3ea4239" CreationDate="2017-06-05T00:14:04.683" UserId="6336" Text="I have a lot of old motherboards that I want to use for different projects and I've run into a major problem too many times now: every board has at least 1 serial port but rarely even the old VGA port. So I can't even operate those boards with my really &quot;old&quot; PC screens with stone-old VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there new types of terminals nowadays that fullfil the purpose of a classic terminal but in an up-to-date way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched for something like that and **I didn't find anything**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How I imagine a &quot;modern&quot; and &quot;up-to-date&quot; style terminal:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - uses the good old Serial Port&#xD;&#xA; - 1 or 2 USB slots&#xD;&#xA; - uses any battery, rechargable or not&#xD;&#xA; - it is very small, preferably as small as a Samsung Galaxy Mini e.g.&#xD;&#xA; - due to its size, modern/easy technology and simple purpose it should be accordingly very cheap, maybe up to 30 bucks MAX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: Even if I would get an old terminal for free, it is still way too big and just wastes space, considering its single and nowadays extremely simple purpose.&#xD;&#xA;And I would never pay for a Vintage one since from that perspective they have 0 value to me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23210" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7508" RevisionGUID="e0a7c15b-e535-4562-bee7-4a99c3ea4239" CreationDate="2017-06-05T00:14:04.683" UserId="6336" Text="Where do I get a NEWLY manufatured computer terminal device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23211" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7508" RevisionGUID="e0a7c15b-e535-4562-bee7-4a99c3ea4239" CreationDate="2017-06-05T00:14:04.683" UserId="6336" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23212" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7507" RevisionGUID="34275287-1472-45d4-b2a4-1eca5539bbc0" CreationDate="2017-06-05T00:19:04.217" UserId="6047" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="At the level of components you want I would recommend a gaming laptop. Being built with high performance components meant for gaming, it turns out that like games; 3D modeling can also leverage the same high performance GPUs and CPUs available for gaming laptops that complex 3D games do. As an added plus, gaming laptops typically ship with anti-ghosting linear switch keys that make for a great typing experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the [MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][1] ($1,100) at Newegg&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key features on the laptop include a powerful **GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB GDDR5** and an **Intel Core i7-7700HQ**.  These components are much more than adequate at driving the latest 3D modeling software. It also comes with a full **16GB of DDR4 RAM** which have faster RAM clock speeds than the usual DDR3 for faster application loading speed as well as a glorious **512 GB M.2 SATA SSD** with **sequential read and write speeds in the 2 GB/s range**. This laptop ships with MSI's signature linear switch laptop keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is overkill for your purposes but at a price tag of **$1,100** makes this laptop perfect for you and will hold you over for a very long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Additional notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to mention that you're unlikely to find laptops that feature 6 hour battery life (even among power saving laptops) without compromising on the performance of the laptop. Intel, for example, purposely has it's U series processors which offer power savings at the trade off of cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tl1wK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23221" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="53918d35-70f6-46c0-9667-0f7634b11123" CreationDate="2017-06-05T11:44:24.137" UserId="6328" Comment="added 728 characters in body" Text="is there a device which converts the incoming lan signals into wifi signals? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The apartment only has a fixed network ip with a predetermined gateway and DNS. One needs to give this static ip, netmask and gateway in the network configuration of the computer and it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I would like to use smart phones to access the network. Hence the static settings should be done in the device ( maybe it is  is called an lan to wifi adaptor  ) itself . Ofcourse, I do not want an expensive ADSL or DSL because I do not need the modem functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it would be great to know how this network device works i.e how does it give the IP addresses to the connected devices - may be using NAT?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help with links what I should look for, would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 05 June, 2017:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a FritzBox 7240, which according to this manual ( German ) https://avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7240/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/106_FRITZ-Box-fuer-Betrieb-mit-anderem-Router-einrichten/, should be able to fulfill my needs. But the problem there is that the static IP provided by the router is class B ( 134.x.x.x ) and if I enter it into the routers configuration and activate the DHCP server ( Class C - 192.168.178.x ) of the router to provide IPs to the connected devices, the fritz box complains a conflict between the Class B incoming IP and the class C Router DHCP IP. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I have left with no other choice, but to buy some other device like an Access Point.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7513" RevisionGUID="4809cc72-7e29-4eda-b379-5bbd4734b531" CreationDate="2017-06-05T16:14:12.203" UserId="6334" Text="I want to know which earbud is best suited for dynamic sports, imagine gymnastics  handstand or high bar jumping.&#xD;&#xA;the characteristics that i'm looking for is high-quality, durability and stability(something that doesn't drop)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23229" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7513" RevisionGUID="4809cc72-7e29-4eda-b379-5bbd4734b531" CreationDate="2017-06-05T16:14:12.203" UserId="6334" Text="Recommendation for Wireless earbud suitable for dynamic sports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23230" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7513" RevisionGUID="4809cc72-7e29-4eda-b379-5bbd4734b531" CreationDate="2017-06-05T16:14:12.203" UserId="6334" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23231" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="b730c111-e141-4f90-b325-46465153f174" CreationDate="2017-06-05T17:21:42.117" UserId="6328" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6328,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;infoclogged&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23232" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="cab662c8-4f38-41eb-9b01-e2f944cd6852" CreationDate="2017-06-05T17:33:59.217" UserId="6328" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6328,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;infoclogged&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7500" RevisionGUID="f48eba9e-004c-4eda-a1d8-20aa2b8cd923" CreationDate="2017-06-05T17:40:32.093" UserId="6328" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="is there a device which converts the incoming lan signals into wifi signals? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The apartment only has a fixed network ip with a predetermined gateway and DNS. One needs to give this static ip, netmask and gateway in the network configuration of the computer and it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I would like to use smart phones to access the network. Hence the static settings should be done in the device ( maybe it is  is called an lan to wifi adaptor  ) itself . Ofcourse, I do not want an expensive ADSL or DSL because I do not need the modem functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it would be great to know how this network device works i.e how does it give the IP addresses to the connected devices - may be using NAT?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help with links what I should look for, would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 05 June, 2017:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a FritzBox 7240, which according to this manual ( German ) https://avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7240/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/106_FRITZ-Box-fuer-Betrieb-mit-anderem-Router-einrichten/, should be able to fulfill my needs. But the problem there is, that the static IP provided by the external router is class B ( 134.x.x.x ). If I enter this static IP into the FritzBox's Routers configuration and activate the DHCP server of the Fritzbox to provide IPs ( Class C - 192.168.178.x ) that would distribute the IP's to the connected devices, the Fritz box complains a conflict between the Class B incoming IP and the class C Fritzbox's DHCP IP. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I have left with no other choice, but to buy some other device like an Access Point.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="1a7899db-fd50-4536-8820-7ef1c3b0bb7f" CreationDate="2017-06-05T20:55:57.843" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7515" RevisionGUID="7580606d-d6a1-4908-b960-8524097a3a40" CreationDate="2017-06-06T16:54:20.777" UserId="6349" Text="This is the setup I have;  &#xD;&#xA;2 Dell 24&quot; monitors  &#xD;&#xA;1 Samsung 49&quot; tv (4:4:4 chroma)  &#xD;&#xA;This works out well because the TV has almost exactly double the diagonal measurement, meaning that windows dragged across have the same size on the 4K as they do on the side monitors. I really love the setup for work.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm using a Radeon RX470 and it works pretty good, mostly.  &#xD;&#xA;On occasion the screens will just kinda blink, and I don't know if that's because the video card is having trouble keeping up, or something else.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd really love to try a Geforce GTX 1070 for a week to see if it does the same thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing I'll say, it is really important to make sure that you have the right HDMI cable. We tried a '4K ready' Monster cable and it failed to show a picture. So we ordered one that can specifically handle 16GBps and that worked. It was also cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jA3W6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7516" RevisionGUID="076a4cec-0dcd-4f6d-b03f-8975a5cdba5f" CreationDate="2017-06-06T19:01:02.257" UserId="1190" Text="I'm looking for a weather station that works without a display but allows querying the data via an API instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- have a rain sensor&#xD;&#xA;- measure wind speed&#xD;&#xA;- have a hygrometer&#xD;&#xA;- measure temperature&#xD;&#xA;- power itself via solar energy&#xD;&#xA;- have an accumulator to measure at night from solar energy collected during daytime&#xD;&#xA;- operating temperature from -25 °C to +40 °C&#xD;&#xA;- have connectors for additional sensors for future use, e.g. UV sensor, solar sensor, snow sensor and snow height sensor&#xD;&#xA;- provide wireless connectivity in a range of ~20 meters. We want to mount it on our roof&#xD;&#xA;- access to the data must be secure, especially the Wifi connection must not open a hole into our corporate network&#xD;&#xA;- built-in data logging for at least 14 days incase the data cannot be fetched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the software is open source. Commercial software is acceptable, but must be included in the price then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also ideally, the firmware is open source (Arduino based?) so that our students could modify it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 750 € net.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- weather forecast&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features not needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- webcam&#xD;&#xA;- scientific data measurement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7516" RevisionGUID="076a4cec-0dcd-4f6d-b03f-8975a5cdba5f" CreationDate="2017-06-06T19:01:02.257" UserId="1190" Text="Weather station with API access" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7516" RevisionGUID="076a4cec-0dcd-4f6d-b03f-8975a5cdba5f" CreationDate="2017-06-06T19:01:02.257" UserId="1190" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23243" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7516" RevisionGUID="7e297318-3dd1-446c-9249-3496fabe6d62" CreationDate="2017-06-06T20:26:02.330" UserId="1190" Comment="Add information requested in comments" Text="I'm looking for a weather station that works without a display but allows querying the data via an API instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- have a rain sensor&#xD;&#xA;- measure wind speed&#xD;&#xA;- have a hygrometer&#xD;&#xA;- measure temperature&#xD;&#xA;- power itself via solar energy&#xD;&#xA;- have an accumulator to measure at night from solar energy collected during daytime&#xD;&#xA;- operating temperature from -25 °C to +40 °C&#xD;&#xA;- have connectors for additional sensors for future use, e.g. UV sensor, solar sensor, snow sensor and snow height sensor&#xD;&#xA;- provide wireless connectivity in a range of ~20 meters. We want to mount it on our roof&#xD;&#xA;- access to the data must be secure, especially the Wifi connection must not open a hole into our corporate network&#xD;&#xA;- built-in data logging for at least 14 days incase the data cannot be fetched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the software is open source. Commercial software is acceptable, but must be included in the price then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also ideally, the firmware is open source (Arduino based?) so that our students could modify it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 750 € net.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- weather forecast&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features not needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- webcam&#xD;&#xA;- scientific data measurement&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-feature:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- cloud based stuff. We must own our data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* most weather stations are just too cheap (&lt; $200) and for home use / indoor use only.&#xD;&#xA;* I'm asking froggit for their [WH 4000 (German)](http://www.froggit.de/product_info.php/info/p234_profi-funk-wetterstation-wh4000-solar-windmessung-regen-uv.html) whether data can be accessed via API and whether operating conditions are within -25 °C to +40 °C. The housing looks a bit cheap and uses lots of plastic material. Also, it seems I pay for the display, which I neither need nor want. All in all I wonder why I have a budget of 750 € if I only need 119 €. (But that may just be due to lack of knowledge by managers)&#xD;&#xA;* Davis [Vantage Pro 2](http://www.davisnet.com/solution/vantage-pro2/) is the closest I could find until now. With $595 + $175, the price is even suitable. It is advertised as &quot;withstand scorching sun, corrosion, 200 mph (321 kmh) winds, temperature extremes, and more&quot;, which sounds great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    There are resellers that seem to sell the same hardware under their own label.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe I'm just looking for alternatives to the Davis Vantage Pro 2 in order to be able to compare and decide for one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7519" RevisionGUID="d9149f90-ee92-49e6-b547-012be681196a" CreationDate="2017-06-07T04:24:20.063" UserId="6353" Text="I use the live edition of Ubuntu 16.04 LTS for work, and every day I pack up my 128Gb USB 3.0 thumb drive in the morning and drive to work, where I insert that drive back into my work computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only problem has I've been having is the fact that my read and write speeds are incredible slow. I realized that both my home and work computers have Thunderbolt 3 ports. I was wondering if there was an adapter for a small M.2 SSD that would plug into those TB3 ports. I don't really care as to if it has an enclosure, I just need a way to easily transport an SSD that I can just plug into my computer and get Samsung 960 PRO-esque speeds. Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23252" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7519" RevisionGUID="d9149f90-ee92-49e6-b547-012be681196a" CreationDate="2017-06-07T04:24:20.063" UserId="6353" Text="A Thunderbolt 3 adapter for M.2 SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23253" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7519" RevisionGUID="d9149f90-ee92-49e6-b547-012be681196a" CreationDate="2017-06-07T04:24:20.063" UserId="6353" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7522" RevisionGUID="fa116bc4-dca0-4cd5-990f-1c2ad9614217" CreationDate="2017-06-07T18:58:40.740" UserId="6282" Text="I found this when researching an answer to my question: Sony Digital Paper&#xD;&#xA;Sony DPT-RP1/B Digital Paper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072DXXXN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RXeozb5XNDYTN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has most everything I envisioned except the camera. The price is ludicrous to me though. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="a3db13ed-8980-4635-9fd4-d6c71f5f0c93" CreationDate="2017-06-07T19:14:12.847" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7523" RevisionGUID="85557ecd-5567-4b2d-a511-968c478a1115" CreationDate="2017-06-08T02:58:19.813" UserId="6353" Text="I have this problem with my motherboard that if I put in two graphics cards, all of my other PCI slots are blocked. There is a small gap, and I found out the there are such things as riser cards that would let me move those slots out of the way. However, two of the slots are in between my graphics cards, and a riser card couldn't go through it. Is there a riser card that instead of keeping all of the wires straight, actually bundle them into a cable so I can snake it out of the way of my GPU's? Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7523" RevisionGUID="85557ecd-5567-4b2d-a511-968c478a1115" CreationDate="2017-06-08T02:58:19.813" UserId="6353" Text="PCI-E Riser Card Cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7523" RevisionGUID="85557ecd-5567-4b2d-a511-968c478a1115" CreationDate="2017-06-08T02:58:19.813" UserId="6353" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23269" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7525" RevisionGUID="0538aeaf-eebb-4274-a3f4-7e149532670c" CreationDate="2017-06-08T08:22:10.870" UserId="6362" Text="Here's what I need to do:&#xD;&#xA;I want to have multiple desktop/laptop PCs stored in minimal space&#xD;&#xA;I should be able to attach a peripheral device to each PC.&#xD;&#xA;Should be able to access the PCs easily to attach/detach peripheral devices&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use a multiplexer to access each PC with the same keyboard+mouse+monitor so I save on monitor space.&#xD;&#xA;It should be expandable vertically becuase I dont want to add more desk space or expand veritcally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Think of it as a Server rack, but I am not going to use individal racks. I want similar compactness but with individual PCs.&#xD;&#xA;The cabinet should be secure(ie. Cabinet should be lockable) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haVe searched for cabinets that allow me to store whole PCs but it doesnt look like this is easily available. Anyone who knows something that matches? or have build such cabinets?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23270" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7525" RevisionGUID="0538aeaf-eebb-4274-a3f4-7e149532670c" CreationDate="2017-06-08T08:22:10.870" UserId="6362" Text="How can I create a rack with PCs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23271" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7525" RevisionGUID="0538aeaf-eebb-4274-a3f4-7e149532670c" CreationDate="2017-06-08T08:22:10.870" UserId="6362" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7525" RevisionGUID="4e26e62d-a2f5-4aa1-b324-360c9116ed34" CreationDate="2017-06-08T11:50:44.043" UserId="6362" Comment="fixing gramar, clarity" Text="Here's what I need to do:&#xD;&#xA;I want to have multiple desktop/laptop PCs stored in minimal space&#xD;&#xA;I should be able to attach a peripheral device to each PC.&#xD;&#xA;Should be able to access the PCs easily to attach/detach peripheral devices&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use a multiplexer to access each PC with the same keyboard+mouse+monitor so I save on monitor space(and wires, and cost).&#xD;&#xA;It should be expandable vertically because I don't have desk space to expand horizontally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Think of it as a Server rack, but I am not going to use individual racks. I want similar compactness but with individual PCs.&#xD;&#xA;The cabinet should be secure(ie. Cabinet should be lockable) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched for cabinets that allow me to store whole PCs but it doesn't look like this is easily available. Anyone who knows something that matches? or have build such cabinets?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7529" RevisionGUID="a5cb0ff3-19fd-447e-b9c3-2a4cf91844ba" CreationDate="2017-06-09T08:35:01.653" UserId="1007" Text="I recommend you get the Jaybird X3. These earbuds come with multiple tips and fins in the box to make sure they stay in your ears. The X3s are wireless and can last up to 8 hours on a charge. The audio sounds great, there is a lot of bass and it can be tweaked with the Jaybird Mysound app to suit your needs. These earbuds are a bit expensive at 130 USD on Amazon but well worth the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7NCT5O&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just in case you like your specs.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.jaybirdsport.com/en-us/x3-bluetooth-headphones/details-specs.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="c3738450-ba9e-4bd1-80fb-a7cdd1769636" CreationDate="2017-06-09T20:20:38.777" UserId="5445" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I have a complicated Home theater system with a TV, a cable box, a Blu-Ray player, an AV receiver, a 3D adapter, an HDMI switcher, and an Intel Compute Stick.  Over the years, I've controlled this system with various Logitech Harmony universal remotes.  They've gotten better over the years; my first one was controlled by buttons, then they introduced touch screens, and now my latest one comes with a Harmony hub which bounces infrared light off of walls.  And it comes with an iPhone app you can use if you don't have the remote handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there's one complaint I've had about all the Logitech Harmony devices I have owned: when the remote fails to turn on everything properly, you to have to use a &quot;Help&quot; feature where you specify what devices are still not on and what devices are not set to the right input.  So my question is, are there any universal remotes that automatically detect what devices are on or off, fixing those problems automatically to save you from the hassle of using the Help feature?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should definitely be possible to check the state of various devices.  After all, I used to have a Google TV Blu-Ray player which plugged into your cable box and access data from it.  Are there any Universal Remote systems that plug into your various devices, or somehow wirelessly ping your devices to see if they're on, and maybe even what input they're set at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23291" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6723" RevisionGUID="96741b47-2232-4a44-85e9-1c8c0c6cf517" CreationDate="2017-06-09T20:23:00.597" UserId="5445" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="So far I've only found one VR headset which features inside-out positional tracking and does not require connecting to a desktop computer: the [Occipital Bridge](https://bridge.occipital.com).  It's $399, only works with iPhone 6 or later running on iOS 9 or later, and is capable of both virtual reality and mixed reality.  It ships in March but is available for pre-order now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other answers are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The shipping date for the Occipital Bridge has been moved to April 28.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 2: The shipping date has now been moved to Mid-May.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 3: It was finally released on May 26." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23292" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="4afc7003-1a39-478a-aecc-72e3c1ebee1d" CreationDate="2017-06-09T21:09:34.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7407" RevisionGUID="2280d525-0824-4cbd-b6cb-77760a7f0b09" CreationDate="2017-06-09T21:18:06.277" UserId="6243" Comment="added 313 characters in body" Text="I have a storage unit which is in the basement of typical townhouse-style apartment building in New York City. I can't set up internet in this room and I can't tap into any of the tenants wireless signals. The room has no windows and is in the middle of the building. I can't set up any equipment outside of the room, such as an antenna because the landlord wouldn't approve. Is there anything I can use to boost the neighborhood wireless signals I receive. Time Warner cable has a plan called Access Pass, where you pay a daily, weekly, or monthly fee and you can use their neighborhood wireless signal. But when I'm in the storage room I'm not able to receive the Time Warner signal. When I step out on the sidewalk I can receive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would a [Wifi Range Extender][1] be a good option for my circumstances?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495348282&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi%20range%20extender&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Since posting this question I've come to the conclusion that I can't get a normal internet connection in the room. However, I am able to get 1g data speed on my cell phone, which I use for light browsing. So I will get a mobile hotspot. Even if it's slow it will still be better than no internet at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7534" RevisionGUID="7c2a56e0-c2f7-4c52-96e2-9fe27bc19579" CreationDate="2017-06-10T13:59:00.850" UserId="6367" Text="I have experienced with both NAS, I would recommend you only QNAP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Easy to setup VPN, SSL and Multimedia with your own domains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, done speed test on the network from QNAP to Mac sent 1GB data: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.QNAP: 432MB download and 345MB upload&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.SYS:  180MB download and 190MB Upload&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7535" RevisionGUID="cff1d883-c948-433d-a332-dbab979e1cf9" CreationDate="2017-06-10T17:04:55.243" UserId="6373" Text="I am going to Czech Republic in terms of Erasmus+ programme for 5 months.I haven't got any notebooks therefore I need it.I will study Information Technology.I've got lessons like Java Programming,Web Design,C etc.I searched out the Internet and I found a cheap notebook which I'll do programming.Is 2GB's of ram,Intel Celeron N3060 processor 1.6ghz(turbo boost 2.4) and 32 GB's of storage useful for my works?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7535" RevisionGUID="cff1d883-c948-433d-a332-dbab979e1cf9" CreationDate="2017-06-10T17:04:55.243" UserId="6373" Text="How useful is the 160$ laptop/notebook?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7535" RevisionGUID="cff1d883-c948-433d-a332-dbab979e1cf9" CreationDate="2017-06-10T17:04:55.243" UserId="6373" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23324" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="973cdad7-d868-434f-8291-20ef744ffa72" CreationDate="2017-06-11T11:48:31.037" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23325" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7535" RevisionGUID="bec92814-cc65-4d11-be8b-26fafc6e5842" CreationDate="2017-06-11T11:52:41.263" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23327" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="e26b2edd-4d33-4274-98fd-23e18dad48dd" CreationDate="2017-06-11T12:48:30.897" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="76b652a2-0ee3-4f84-9a43-a74101e15c95" CreationDate="2017-06-11T22:01:41.153" UserId="6379" Text="I am looking into getting a new laptop. I will mostly be using it for internet and Word, but also might be using games/programs such as Star Wars: The Old Republic, Lord of the Rings Online, and Maple. I am also hoping it will last me 5 years. The two computers on the top of my list currently are https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4MLT6X/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A15EHDQVYNLON8 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NVNWM3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A15EHDQVYNLON8. The only difference appears to be that the first has 32gb RAM at 2133 MHz while the second has 32gb RAM at 2400 MHz, but the second one costs about $45 more. Is this worth it for the speedier RAM? Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23335" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="76b652a2-0ee3-4f84-9a43-a74101e15c95" CreationDate="2017-06-11T22:01:41.153" UserId="6379" Text="32gb RAM at 2133 MHz or 32gb RAM at 2400 MHz?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23336" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="76b652a2-0ee3-4f84-9a43-a74101e15c95" CreationDate="2017-06-11T22:01:41.153" UserId="6379" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7542" RevisionGUID="374608dd-0d35-4da5-afe0-efe974b05f07" CreationDate="2017-06-11T23:06:47.267" UserId="6047" Text="You probably won't see a big difference with +267 MHz, but it wouldn't hurt to splurge the 45 dollars for the 2400 MHz variant. If you choose to overclock your RAM at any point, you'll see a bigger difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unrelated, You might want to consider the [MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][1]. It is basically the same thing for only $1,100, significantly cheaper than the laptops you linked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it only has 16 GB of 2400 MHz RAM, it is already excessive for most gaming or video editing. 32 GB is an amount of RAM you would expect in a server. In addition this variant of the laptop has a 512 GB PCIe SSD instead of a puny 128 GB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU is weaker than your choices, but not by much. It'll still be [more than powerful][2] to run VR and the latest games at full frame rate. (The screens aren't even 4k screens)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want 32 GB, you might as well buy this laptop, and then spend 100 or so bucks for more RAM sticks and put them in yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your use the laptops you linked are way more powerful than you need for what you described your daily use for this laptop will be. So I'd advise avoiding overpaying for something you don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-1070-vs-GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="623393a3-e5e6-4d9a-bf54-0945c828c537" CreationDate="2017-06-12T02:28:47.743" UserId="1921" Text="Here is 1 option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-160W-24Pin-Pico-ATX-Switch-PSU-Car-Auto-Mini-ITX-High-Power-Supply-Module-/111919067480?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275`[![atx from 12v][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need 2 of those and 1 of these:&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 8 or 10 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAJNA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23339" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="e3aec0ab-cacf-4f2c-bb95-950c42d76c74" CreationDate="2017-06-12T02:29:01.913" UserId="1921" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1921,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybernard&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23341" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="a3975083-8f94-4f93-8ae5-07e7968239ba" CreationDate="2017-06-12T02:54:15.590" UserId="1921" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="Here is 1 option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-160-XT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need 2 of those and 1 of these:&#xD;&#xA;Each unit can only handle 160w so linking them together takes you to 320w.  Additionally, the wiring on a single unit can't handle the 25 amps you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;[![ATX][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.moddiy.com/products/Power-Supply-ATX-20%252dPin%7B47%7D24%252dPin-Cable-Y-Splitter.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_BygOL_d0oZjwgUBb2JhxygNWIFgkB3hvPbyhQXSpC4hoCt_Pw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 8 or 10 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGXXy.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlueF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7544" RevisionGUID="846eb6f0-4e49-4b0b-8e0c-dfc744e6c707" CreationDate="2017-06-12T02:54:51.670" UserId="5341" Text="You can use normal wireless routers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that if you plug into the WAN port on the far one it will want to create a subnet,  unless it has bridging.  If it has bridging (and if it works), then you're home free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it doesn't have bridging, or if it doesn't work, then set it up as a normal AP and just plug into a LAN port on the far one, which should also be its WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll want it set up so the LAN and WiFi are the same as the original net.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router will think it has no WAN, but it should work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you use DHCP, be sure all the routers have their own blocks of address to assign so no two devices end up with the same address.   Maybe one can use .100-.120, the next can use .121-.140, and so on.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7544" RevisionGUID="05ff43d8-b1f1-4b77-a7bc-30198bec3cc8" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:04:15.117" UserId="5341" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="You can use normal WiFi Access Point routers for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that if you plug into the WAN port on the far one it will want to create a subnet,  unless it has bridging.  If it has bridging (and if it works), then you're home free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it doesn't have bridging, or if it doesn't work, then set it up as a normal AP and just plug into a LAN port on the far one, which should also be its WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll want it set up so the LAN and WiFi are the same as the original net.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router will think it has no WAN, but it should work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you use DHCP, be sure all the routers have their own blocks of address to assign so no two devices end up with the same address.   Maybe one can use .100-.120, the next can use .121-.140, and so on.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="f3cd17e3-6f4d-46a4-838b-e0439164e705" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:09:29.443" UserId="1921" Comment="added 406 characters in body" Text="Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 8 or 10 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.  **All the ones that are 300w or more require 16v-20v.**  You would need to combine 2 to get a full 300w all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is 1 option: (250w) peak (300w)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&amp;category=981&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![250w option][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;This picture seems to show 2 sata and 1 molex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-160-XT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need 1 of each those and 1 of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIbWs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGXXy.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23349" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="defb3d81-b292-4fe9-a857-94535cdb3629" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:12:50.210" UserId="1921" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1921,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybernard&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23350" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="a478e77b-5b39-434d-98b1-fd32bc4dab61" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:14:13.620" UserId="1921" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1921,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybernard&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="4a002446-f2ec-4115-b117-e05096dc6426" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:24:04.253" UserId="1921" Comment="added 473 characters in body" Text="Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 8 or 10 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.  **All the ones that are 300w or more require 16v-20v.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  **You would need to combine 2 to get a full 300w all the time.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You will probably need 2 of these devices to provide the correct number of amps to the PCI-E device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need a molex Y cable simple to connect to the add2psu unit so PSU 1 turns PSU-2 on automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is 1 option: (250w) peak (300w)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&amp;category=981&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![250w option][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;This picture seems to show 2 sata and 1 molex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![molex to 6pin][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423173&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Internal+Power+Cables-_-N82E16812423173&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_B-pm9o4gStz3wqfXlWnmmOzv0yjspZ5CSOi-aS7ptEBoChGbw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIbWs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffJ2g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGXXy.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23352" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="0eddbfa7-9817-47e2-a1ac-3aba86aa028c" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:24:10.497" UserId="1921" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1921,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;cybernard&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7545" RevisionGUID="4f2195f5-aa7d-46fd-bf06-7e83c82a26c2" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:26:46.873" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23354" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7545" RevisionGUID="4f2195f5-aa7d-46fd-bf06-7e83c82a26c2" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:26:46.873" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7546" RevisionGUID="98349deb-c2de-4e1e-a13c-ed4737d09625" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:26:46.873" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7546" RevisionGUID="98349deb-c2de-4e1e-a13c-ed4737d09625" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:26:46.873" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7547" RevisionGUID="7f727b02-2fa5-4ea1-8c5a-c430848437cb" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:28:09.270" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23358" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7547" RevisionGUID="7f727b02-2fa5-4ea1-8c5a-c430848437cb" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:28:09.270" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7548" RevisionGUID="6ddc1da6-1d12-4811-886a-12d927de540d" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:28:09.270" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23360" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7548" RevisionGUID="6ddc1da6-1d12-4811-886a-12d927de540d" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:28:09.270" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7549" RevisionGUID="a7789c73-1b59-4ee8-bd45-86179d406b9c" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:30:29.983" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23362" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7549" RevisionGUID="a7789c73-1b59-4ee8-bd45-86179d406b9c" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:30:29.983" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7550" RevisionGUID="33ef64e4-0847-496c-bf63-885484d77bcd" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:30:29.983" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23364" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7550" RevisionGUID="33ef64e4-0847-496c-bf63-885484d77bcd" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:30:29.983" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23365" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="47fe0c36-a87b-41d2-9055-afccd8b117cf" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:31:18.880" UserId="1921" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 8 or 10 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.  **All the ones that are 300w or more require 16v-20v.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  **You would need to combine 2 to get a full 300w all the time.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You will probably need 2 of these devices to provide the correct number of amps to the PCI-E device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need a molex Y cable simple to connect to the add2psu unit so PSU 1 turns PSU-2 on automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is 1 option: (250w) peak (300w)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&amp;category=981&#xD;&#xA;When operating at constant 160 watts or more forced ventilation might be required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU chart][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![250w option][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This picture seems to show 2 sata and 1 molex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![molex to 6pin][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423173&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Internal+Power+Cables-_-N82E16812423173&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_B-pm9o4gStz3wqfXlWnmmOzv0yjspZ5CSOi-aS7ptEBoChGbw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0x1qH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIbWs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffJ2g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7551" RevisionGUID="a87ac8e9-77d1-4a11-b047-b18acb819e7f" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:33:59.743" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7551" RevisionGUID="a87ac8e9-77d1-4a11-b047-b18acb819e7f" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:33:59.743" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7552" RevisionGUID="ac7f5d85-3683-4f42-af6e-36cb33ff4f0c" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:33:59.743" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23369" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7552" RevisionGUID="ac7f5d85-3683-4f42-af6e-36cb33ff4f0c" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:33:59.743" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="b94cbcc3-682d-4c68-806a-99b866c1ac10" CreationDate="2017-06-12T04:08:53.960" UserId="1921" Comment="better wire gauge suggestion" Text="Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 4 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.  **All the ones that are 300w or more require 16v-20v.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  **You would need to combine 2 to get a full 300w all the time.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You will probably need 2 of these devices to provide the correct number of amps to the PCI-E device.  Also 1 might overheat under load**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need a molex Y cable simple to connect to the add2psu unit so PSU 1 turns PSU-2 on automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is 1 option: (250w) peak (300w)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&amp;category=981&#xD;&#xA;When operating at constant 160 watts or more forced ventilation might be required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU chart][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![250w option][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This picture seems to show 2 sata and 1 molex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![molex to 6pin][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423173&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Internal+Power+Cables-_-N82E16812423173&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_B-pm9o4gStz3wqfXlWnmmOzv0yjspZ5CSOi-aS7ptEBoChGbw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0x1qH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIbWs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffJ2g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7553" RevisionGUID="39279365-2f79-460e-97a7-f76b49da8496" CreationDate="2017-06-12T04:23:39.133" UserId="1921" Text="https://thehomeserverblog.com/home-servers/diy-19-server-rack-for-home-servers-and-or-esxi-vmware-lab/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Material List for D.I.Y. Server Rack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    2 Pair of 20U Space Rack Rails — $45 (eBay)&#xD;&#xA;    4 2x4s – $10.00 (Lowe’s)&#xD;&#xA;    48 3″ Sheetrock Screws — $4.58 (Lowe’s)&#xD;&#xA;    20 1-1/4″ Sheetrock Screws — $4.58 (Lowe’s)&#xD;&#xA;    Set of 4 2″ High Capacity Rubber Locking Plate Casters – $15.99 (Amazon)&#xD;&#xA;    Minwax Wood Finish, Red Oak 215 (had some)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total Cost: $80.15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tool List for D.I.Y. Server Rack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Saw (Circular, Table, or Radial; I have a Sliding, Compound Radial Saw)&#xD;&#xA;    Cordless Drill (Mine: B&amp;D 18v)&#xD;&#xA;    Phillips Head bit (magnetic is a plus)&#xD;&#xA;    Drill bit (for pilot holes for the screw)&#xD;&#xA;    Paint brush for Minwax&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steps for D.I.Y. Home Server Rack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Make cuts on 2x4s (see above for cuts)&#xD;&#xA;    Assemble top and bottom “square frames”&#xD;&#xA;    Attach uprights to bottom frame (use a square to make sure these are square/level)&#xD;&#xA;    Attach Rails, making sure they are flush again the bottom frame, and square along the edge.&#xD;&#xA;    Attach top square frame&#xD;&#xA;    Stain (this is optional, but easy and makes it look nice)&#xD;&#xA;    Attach casters to bottom of server rack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23374" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="16d41b48-61f8-4345-a055-f414bbbd6349" CreationDate="2017-06-12T05:46:05.460" UserId="5341" Comment="Added one tag, updated title to reflect the question." Text="Buying new laptop: 32gb RAM at 2133 MHz OK or 2400 MHz for $45 more?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23375" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="16d41b48-61f8-4345-a055-f414bbbd6349" CreationDate="2017-06-12T05:46:05.460" UserId="5341" Comment="Added one tag, updated title to reflect the question." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23376" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="16d41b48-61f8-4345-a055-f414bbbd6349" CreationDate="2017-06-12T05:46:05.460" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by -1 edit id of 601" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="a6f07d66-da4e-4e55-b900-a28e46917c5b" CreationDate="2017-06-12T05:46:05.460" UserId="203" Comment="Added one tag, updated title to reflect the question ... Grammar and Formatting." Text="I am looking into getting a new laptop. I will mostly be using it for internet and Word, but also might be using games/programs such as Star Wars: The Old Republic, Lord of the Rings Online, and Maple. I am also hoping it will last me 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop currently on the top of my list is currently the **MSI GT62VR DOMINATOR PRO-239**, which has two avalible models, [(1)](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4MLT6X/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A15EHDQVYNLON8) and [(2)](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NVNWM3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A15EHDQVYNLON8). The only difference appears to be that the first has 32 GB RAM at 2133 MHz while the second has 32 GB RAM at 2400 MHz, but the second one costs about $45 more. Is the model with the faster RAM worth the extra money?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23378" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="a6f07d66-da4e-4e55-b900-a28e46917c5b" CreationDate="2017-06-12T05:46:05.460" UserId="203" Comment="Added one tag, updated title to reflect the question ... Grammar and Formatting." Text="Buying a new laptop: 32 GB RAM at 2133 MHz or 2400 MHz for $45 more?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23379" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="952" RevisionGUID="b4de172d-7a44-4737-9402-32b0a76e2e58" CreationDate="2017-06-12T06:05:15.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23380" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="dcb15c0b-82f0-4faa-8f20-3bf44900198f" CreationDate="2017-06-12T09:05:41.013" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23381" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7554" RevisionGUID="0abd9b20-338d-45bb-8747-c87a3f0b6ebc" CreationDate="2017-06-12T11:43:32.753" UserId="6380" Text="I'm looking to get a laptop for coding which I hope to use for the next 2/3 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a tight budget of roughly about 700 dollars and am not looking for anything too fancy(or to low at the end of the spectrum too) I'm a beginner coder but looking to pour a lot of time into coding(starting with objective C) and your opinions would help a lot!! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help in advance! :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23382" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7554" RevisionGUID="0abd9b20-338d-45bb-8747-c87a3f0b6ebc" CreationDate="2017-06-12T11:43:32.753" UserId="6380" Text="Laptop for coding" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23383" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7554" RevisionGUID="0abd9b20-338d-45bb-8747-c87a3f0b6ebc" CreationDate="2017-06-12T11:43:32.753" UserId="6380" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23385" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7545" RevisionGUID="05635c5e-c1e5-4976-b0e1-20c16088f241" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:01.937" UserId="5341" Comment="added 223 characters in body" Text="Use this tag in reference to any external test equipment needed to verify or troubleshoot systems.  This includes voltmeters, USB Volt/Amp meters, Ethernet cable testers, even Smartphone apps that show WiFi signal strength." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23386" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7545" RevisionGUID="05635c5e-c1e5-4976-b0e1-20c16088f241" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:01.937" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23387" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7548" RevisionGUID="f6fb56dc-598a-4bd2-a42d-a80122f9f7ea" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:12.387" UserId="5341" Comment="added 139 characters in body" Text="Use this in reference to hardware required to run Steam games and other Steam programs.  Do not use this for software questions on this SE." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23388" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7548" RevisionGUID="f6fb56dc-598a-4bd2-a42d-a80122f9f7ea" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:12.387" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 606" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7549" RevisionGUID="1dda0c97-737a-436a-819b-8ec4cec594af" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:16.543" UserId="5341" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="Use this tag for any kind of desktop-style monitor mount.  This can include simple feet or swiveling column types or anything else that holds the monitor.  Do not use this tag for wall mounts." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23390" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7549" RevisionGUID="1dda0c97-737a-436a-819b-8ec4cec594af" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:16.543" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="376" RevisionGUID="c042b9b5-c7e4-4ed4-bdd8-c1eb3059bbae" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:22.013" UserId="5341" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Use this in reference to the Small Computer Systems Interface.  This includes hard drives, CD drives, and whole large systems that use the SCSI standard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23392" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="376" RevisionGUID="c042b9b5-c7e4-4ed4-bdd8-c1eb3059bbae" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:22.013" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 609" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7552" RevisionGUID="46f48e04-96bf-4d52-81d0-5531a98bc7c3" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:38.750" UserId="5341" Comment="added 175 characters in body" Text="Use this for questions related to touch pads, whether built into a computer or as a separate peripheral.  A sample question might be how to find one that supports multi-touch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23394" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7552" RevisionGUID="46f48e04-96bf-4d52-81d0-5531a98bc7c3" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:38.750" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 612" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="377" RevisionGUID="fde17d19-74b7-4583-b524-0f13e25e35fa" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:41.730" UserId="5341" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Use this in reference to the Small Computer Systems Interface.  This includes hard drives, CD drives, and whole large systems that use the SCSI standard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23396" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="377" RevisionGUID="fde17d19-74b7-4583-b524-0f13e25e35fa" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:41.730" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7546" RevisionGUID="4c7c526a-f163-4582-8b24-cbf247f89cf1" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:45.350" UserId="5341" Comment="added 223 characters in body" Text="Use this tag in reference to any external test equipment needed to verify or troubleshoot systems.  This includes voltmeters, USB Volt/Amp meters, Ethernet cable testers, even Smartphone apps that show WiFi signal strength." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23398" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7546" RevisionGUID="4c7c526a-f163-4582-8b24-cbf247f89cf1" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:45.350" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 604" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7551" RevisionGUID="c894aec2-53a4-47f9-b9b2-e0a9a888fbc3" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:48.473" UserId="5341" Comment="added 175 characters in body" Text="Use this for questions related to touch pads, whether built into a computer or as a separate peripheral.  A sample question might be how to find one that supports multi-touch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23400" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7551" RevisionGUID="c894aec2-53a4-47f9-b9b2-e0a9a888fbc3" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:48.473" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 611" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7547" RevisionGUID="7a3dff99-a3e2-42e2-a6bf-b7e9ed13d9a6" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:51.327" UserId="5341" Comment="added 139 characters in body" Text="Use this in reference to hardware required to run Steam games and other Steam programs.  Do not use this for software questions on this SE." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23402" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7547" RevisionGUID="7a3dff99-a3e2-42e2-a6bf-b7e9ed13d9a6" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:51.327" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 605" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23403" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7550" RevisionGUID="fce7a3d1-caf8-4342-be52-f27ef0fcc581" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:54.363" UserId="5341" Comment="added 192 characters in body" Text="Use this tag for any kind of desktop-style monitor mount.  This can include simple feet or swiveling column types or anything else that holds the monitor.  Do not use this tag for wall mounts." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23404" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7550" RevisionGUID="fce7a3d1-caf8-4342-be52-f27ef0fcc581" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:47:54.363" Comment="Proposed by 5341 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 608" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23415" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="7554" RevisionGUID="4b20b03d-7af1-46ff-8e29-c261d2c30335" CreationDate="2017-06-12T20:43:17.047" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23419" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7561" RevisionGUID="3f395046-07d6-41e2-9d93-50b34635b2d8" CreationDate="2017-06-12T21:09:01.510" UserId="6047" Text="Since, you're starting out with coding I wouldn't expect you to be using heavy Integrated Developer Environments, like Visual Studio + Resharper which can weigh heavily on the performance of your cpu and non-volatile memory storage devices. I've focused on budget laptops that should work fine for basic C coding. I've purposely avoided HDDs because they tend to be paired with higher speed cpus/gpus and become a huge limiting factor on budget laptops. I also curated laptops with 6/7 series i-# processors as they enjoy higher RAM speeds for faster application load-in (iex. loading in something heavy like adobe Photoshop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheap Option: Acer Laptop Aspire&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;$440 @ [newegg][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer Aspire][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features a i7 7200U processor, 8 GB DDR4 RAM, 256 GB SSD. While the processor is weaker b/c it is a U power saver series cpu, you shouldn't find that being a huge limiting factor in this laptop. The laptop only has an intel integrated graphics card, so don't expect to be able to play triple-A video games on this laptop on max settings without getting abysmal frame rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pushing the Budget: ASUS Laptop X556UQ-NH71 ##&#xD;&#xA;$800 @ [newegg][3] with MSRP $850&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus Laptop][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;This laptop features a i7-7500U, 8GB of 2133 speed DDR4 RAM, a 512 GB SSD and most noteably, a dedicated GPU -the NVIDIA GeForce 940MX. With a dedicated graphics card, the laptop can handle more visually intensive processes such as physics in games (or a 3D rendered scene in a objective-C mobile application).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For double the price, you'd be getting a laptop that can last a little longer before you have to get a new laptop and should be enough to handle 3D/game programming if you choose to delve into it. You'd also have double the storage. For this laptop you're really paying for that secondary dedicated graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side note, you'd probably be able to play some triple-A games without your laptop crawling to a halt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315811&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYLiQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234445&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nQex.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7542" RevisionGUID="468f7035-1e21-4af5-8a0b-6672c9c9afe3" CreationDate="2017-06-12T21:13:52.317" UserId="6047" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="You probably won't see a big difference with +267 MHz, but it wouldn't hurt to splurge the 45 dollars for the 2400 MHz variant. If you choose to overclock your RAM at any point, you'll see a bigger difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unrelated, You might want to consider the [MSI GL62M 7REX-1067][1]. It is basically the same thing for only $1,100, significantly cheaper than the laptops you linked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it only has 16 GB of 2400 MHz RAM, it is already excessive for most gaming or video editing. 32 GB is an amount of RAM you would expect in a server. In addition this variant of the laptop has a 512 GB PCIe SSD instead of a puny 128 GB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GPU is weaker than your choices, but not by much. It'll still be [more than powerful][2] to run VR and the latest games at full frame rate. (The screens aren't even 4k screens)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want 32 GB, you might as well buy this laptop, and then spend 100 or so bucks for more RAM sticks and put them in yourself. (The sales site claims there are empty slots in the laptop for more RAM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your use the laptops you linked are way more powerful than you need for what you described your daily use for this laptop will be. So I'd advise avoiding overpaying for something you don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-1070-vs-GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23421" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="e951367b-cdee-4d99-bed7-9d4f9ddb9b06" CreationDate="2017-06-13T01:29:26.543" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23428" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7541" RevisionGUID="fd0de9a2-d1dd-4131-a09d-1e3b01bccf16" CreationDate="2017-06-13T06:41:29.890" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23429" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="90acc4f5-f3bf-41a6-b8c7-2433d1c605cd" CreationDate="2017-06-13T15:51:26.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23430" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7203" RevisionGUID="9d63f789-963f-4841-b822-7fe8aae0fbb8" CreationDate="2017-06-13T21:11:53.117" UserId="6004" Comment="Added links" Text="You haven't mentioned which OS it is that you'd like to use so I'll split this up by operating systems. You did mention Windows Ink, so I presume Windows is your OS of choice but for the sake of completeness I'll offer the most popular options for both ecosystems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Windows:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the most popular options of late is to use Microsoft's Surface tablet. This tablet could be connected to a monitor, so you can draw and interact with the tablet and it would be mirrored on the monitor. This configuration would match your ideal setup. The current latest and greatest is the Surface Pro 4 but the [new Surface Pro](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/surface/devices/surface-pro/overview) is slated to arrive soon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Surface Pro 1 and 2 used Wacom digitizers and styluses but Surface 3 and newer now use nTrig's technology for the pen input. Surface tablets can also take advantage of Windows Ink&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may also want to check out the [Surface Studio](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/surface/devices/surface-studio/overview), which is like a giant easel/canvas for drawing, although this doesn't fully match your ideal setup. The Surface Studio also uses nTrig digitizers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There ARE other options out on the market that are laptops and have digitizers on their screens but they are difficult to find and lead to even more difficulty ascertaining what level of precision they offer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**macOS:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use an [iPad Pro](https://www.apple.com/ipad-pro/) with [Apple Pencil](https://www.apple.com/apple-pencil/) and an app called [AstroPad](http://astropad.com/) to mirror a Mac's screen onto the iPad, whereby you can interact with it using the pencil and touch. AstroPad is designed specifically for drawing and illustration (in contrast to something like [Duet Display](https://www.duetdisplay.com/), which just turns your iPad into touchscreen.) This is actually reverse to your ideal setup because Photoshop/Illustrator would be running on the Mac and not on the iPad. The iPad would just be a drawing tablet in this setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At present, the Apple Pencil ONLY works with the iPad Pro models. This might not change even in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also get a cheaper, regular iPad and pair that with a Bluetooth stylus like [Wacom Bamboo](http://bamboo.wacom.com/bamboo-sketch-natural-sketching-for-your-ipad-and-iphone/). I've seen this be a very effective tool for drawing as well but you lose out on tilt control. Also, the palm rejection is definitely subpar and may require you to wear gloves to draw so that your fingers don't cause accidental marks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Regarding styluses:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have mentioned styluses from 3 companies: Wacom, nTrig and Apple&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many have their opinions regarding Wacom vs nTrig so I'll leave that choice up to you as the internet is full of arguments for and against each one. Each definitely has its set of pros and cons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Apple Pencil is the relative newcomer to the market but its inner workings seem to be very similar to that of nTrig's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally I prefer the lower (maybe perceived) latency/higher responsiveness of Wacom digitizers/styluses over nTrig, having tried out both myself. There is no real perceivable difference between the nTrig stylus vs the Apple Pencil. I do know that the iPad Pro reacts to input quicker than a competing nTrig Windows tablet would (down to Apple's optimization I suppose)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From personal experience with all three styluses, I'd say Wacom is the most natural feeling, followed by Apple Pencil and then nTrig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three offer tilt support and similar levels of pressure sensitivity. But of course with an iPad Pro, you won't have to worry about drivers and troubleshooting software issues like Wacom and nTrig can sometimes cause on the Windows side. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as accuracy/preciseness is concerned, Wacom styluses/digitizers suffer from a minor amount of misalignment/parallax effect where the point on screen doesn't exactly match the tip of the stylus. This is really minor and isn't distracting (atleast to me). nTrig styluses seem to suffer from wobble, if you draw at slow speeds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Edit: Added links*&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23437" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="5c0b09ee-0292-44e8-b596-4c25c21ab8eb" CreationDate="2017-06-14T06:58:17.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23446" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="824374fc-fe26-43b0-9378-2e70e99ec97c" CreationDate="2017-06-14T18:16:41.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7567" RevisionGUID="3f2136aa-8fe0-455e-9861-71b08d8b2236" CreationDate="2017-06-14T20:42:07.297" UserId="6402" Text="I would like to know if such device exists and what are your models recommendations if so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I'm trying to solve is to create multiple Wi-Fi networks each of then with limited band speed. That is because in my development group we need to test apps with different speed scenarios both for download and upload capabilities. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With such device I would create something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    WiFi Network 1 - 1 Mbps download speed&#xD;&#xA;                    128 Kbps upload speed&#xD;&#xA;    WiFi Network 2 - 56 Kbps download speed&#xD;&#xA;                     28 Kbps upload speed&#xD;&#xA;    WiFi Network 3 - 1 Gbps download speed&#xD;&#xA;                     128 Mbps upload speed&#xD;&#xA;    ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If such device does not exist (yet) what would be your recommendations for a Manageable Router with different Access Points plugged to it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        Manageable Router 1 (4 network ports):&#xD;&#xA;             Port 1: wifi access point 1 (config 1 above)&#xD;&#xA;             Port 2: wifi access point 2 (config 2 above)&#xD;&#xA;             Port 3: wifi access point 3 (config 3 above)&#xD;&#xA;             ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23450" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7567" RevisionGUID="3f2136aa-8fe0-455e-9861-71b08d8b2236" CreationDate="2017-06-14T20:42:07.297" UserId="6402" Text="Manageable Router with multiple wifi networks capability" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23451" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7567" RevisionGUID="3f2136aa-8fe0-455e-9861-71b08d8b2236" CreationDate="2017-06-14T20:42:07.297" UserId="6402" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23458" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7570" RevisionGUID="32ee35c4-006e-47e5-b614-b297bf3b8561" CreationDate="2017-06-14T23:50:00.803" UserId="6406" Text="I volunteer in an association that raises funds to fight cancer. We do various activities. Since 3years we organize a Run&amp;Bike but the number of participants increase every year and the timing system that we use begins to no longer suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I am a software engineer and I would build a timing system with NFC chips or something like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some search I saw this package https://www.atlasrfidstore.com/thingmagic-m6e-embedded-rfid-reader-module-developer-kit/.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's enough or I forgot something ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need some advices to realize this project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance for your advice. Feel free to ask me any question that you judge useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23459" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7570" RevisionGUID="32ee35c4-006e-47e5-b614-b297bf3b8561" CreationDate="2017-06-14T23:50:00.803" UserId="6406" Text="Build a Timing system (RFID)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23460" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7570" RevisionGUID="32ee35c4-006e-47e5-b614-b297bf3b8561" CreationDate="2017-06-14T23:50:00.803" UserId="6406" Text="&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7571" RevisionGUID="e234cc3d-5932-4e0d-80f5-6360beed2d73" CreationDate="2017-06-15T04:06:02.343" UserId="6407" Text="Some time ago, I built a portable live sound system for the youth ministry that I volunteer for.  It has a WiFi-controlled digital mixer on stage, with a Banana Pi next to it that, in addition to some other things, streams the Front-of-House Engineer's mic and headphones between itself and a netbook that also runs the mixer's control app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It all works just fine with the netbook's 4-pin TRRS headset jack and a battery-powered, circumaural, wired headset, but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The cans only rotate 90deg, so I can't really hold just one to my ear for a few seconds without the other being awkwardly in the way.&#xD;&#xA;- The tethered I/O and processing unit with two AA's in it is a bit bulky, and I want to consolidate all the battery power that I can anyway.  (oops, I forgot to charge/change one, now I can't run the show as well as I want to)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd like something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Runs entirely on USB&#xD;&#xA;2. Has circumaural cans to block out some of the house volume (could be upwards of 110dB)&#xD;&#xA;3. Produces enough (clean!) volume on its own to overcome what gets through anyway&#xD;&#xA;4. Has a microphone attached to one of the cans&#xD;&#xA;5. Can rotate those cans 180deg (microphone inward), so I can:&#xD;&#xA; - Pick it up with one hand, grabbing the can with the mic on it&#xD;&#xA; - Swing the headband away from me, still with one hand&#xD;&#xA; - Hold it to my ear for a few seconds while I fiddle with Solo buttons&#xD;&#xA; - Swing it back straight and put it down&#xD;&#xA; - (All while mixing a live band)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also put it all the way on for other tasks, like extended conversations to stage or queuing up some background music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found some gaming headsets that almost fit the bill (they even have sensitivity specs of around 90dB at 1mW, which translates to 100mW for 110dB, which should be feasible on USB), but they either don't rotate at all or only rotate 90deg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something that satisfies all 5 requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23464" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7571" RevisionGUID="e234cc3d-5932-4e0d-80f5-6360beed2d73" CreationDate="2017-06-15T04:06:02.343" UserId="6407" Text="USB Headset for Live Audio Mixing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23465" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7571" RevisionGUID="e234cc3d-5932-4e0d-80f5-6360beed2d73" CreationDate="2017-06-15T04:06:02.343" UserId="6407" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="e111b796-95d0-4696-9c32-b7c2555938cb" CreationDate="2017-06-15T09:25:13.470" UserId="6312" Comment="added comparision link" Text="Which is a good Mac laptop for development: the MacBook Pro MD101HN/A or the MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A. In 2017, is it worth buying a MacBook Pro(MD101HN/A)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Pro MD101HN/A (Late 2012 Model) is upgradeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A, released in 2016 has 8GB Ram, but its processor is 1.6 GHz, does that make the machine slow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest if any other Mac is good for development, the budget is the constraint (80K INR).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here i found the processor comparision][1], Which suggests `1.6 GHz i5 Air` is better when compared to `2.5GHz i5 Pro` Model, Please have a look &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://%20http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i5-5250U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-3210M" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7574" RevisionGUID="4a29b607-4eed-4cc5-8508-b9304be002a0" CreationDate="2017-06-15T12:48:24.677" UserId="2370" Text="You wouldn't by any change be taking on developing apps for iOS -- the iPhone, iPad? I'm asking because I've personally only heard of Objective C being used for iOS apps.  This is important, because if are then you [***must have*** a  Macintosh][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm wrong, ignore my answer and carry on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Look, my original answer was deleted because it wasn't pointing a specific product. I understand those are the rules of this forum, but if my assumptions are correct, them the information provided in my answer is vital, since not buying a Macintosh (like the accepted answer recommends) will only lead to wasted money! I'm not a Mac person, but here, because rules, is a random [specific product][2] that'll actually let you compile and run Objective C as you required.  You want at least 8GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note: You may be interested in knowing that all iOS developers (that I know of!) are moving away from Objective C and switching to the Swift programming language.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://stackoverflow.com/a/9570529/2412477%20%22See%20for%20yourself%22.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Air-A1466-13-i5-5250U-1-6-GHz-8GB-128GB-SSD-Early-2015-/282515650467?hash=item41c73eb7a3:g:WwsAAOSwKflZOW03" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7574" RevisionGUID="c2163d9c-c374-4e5c-8c2a-372648a3f357" CreationDate="2017-06-15T12:54:16.827" UserId="2370" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="You wouldn't by any change be taking on developing apps for iOS -- the iPhone, iPad? I'm asking because I've personally only heard of Objective C being used for iOS apps.  This is important, because if are then you [***must have*** a  Macintosh][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm wrong, ignore my answer and carry on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Look, my original answer was deleted because it wasn't recommending a specific product. I understand those are the rules of this forum, but if my above assumptions are correct, them the information provided in my answer is vital, since buying anything else than a Macintosh (like the accepted answer recommends) is misleading and will only result in you wasting your money! I'm not a Mac person, but here, because rules, is a randomly [recommended specific product][2] that'll actually let you compile and run Objective C as you required.  You want at least 8GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note: You may be interested in knowing that all iOS developers (that I know of!) are moving away from Objective C and switching to the Swift programming language.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://stackoverflow.com/a/9570529/2412477%20%22See%20for%20yourself%22.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Air-A1466-13-i5-5250U-1-6-GHz-8GB-128GB-SSD-Early-2015-/282515650467?hash=item41c73eb7a3:g:WwsAAOSwKflZOW03" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23477" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="91a322eb-e3cc-4bc9-8f9d-6af6742495d0" CreationDate="2017-06-15T15:45:15.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7576" RevisionGUID="62952246-16cf-432e-967f-d382da19aff4" CreationDate="2017-06-15T16:04:53.927" UserId="6411" Text="Those are the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Sim slot for mobile broadband&#xD;&#xA;2. Detachable keyboard, preferably with additional battery&#xD;&#xA;3. Good for multimedia/surfing&#xD;&#xA;4. Weight in tablet config so that woman can hold it for a while without dropping it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Idea is to give my wife all-round device that can replace a laptop but will also be easy to pack into a bag and take outdoors for a few hours. I'm UK based so thinking on packing into it Three all-you-can-eat-data sim for mobile phones (not mobile broadband) for cheap internet-on-the-move.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Used item is perfectly fine, so please do not limit yourselves to 2016/2017 models. Price is a factor, but with used item not so much, so let's say £500 is the limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm perfectly willing to experiment, so chinese slates are ok, too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm having serious problem finding something that will match all criteria, not to mention also reasonably priced. I'm happy to have another look myself if someone points me to a search engine that will reliably filter offers. A lot of sellers will drop a gem like &quot;4G ready&quot; or &quot;Mobile internet compatible&quot; in the description or specs, which means it will work with a dongle, but that's what will not work for me for obvious reasons." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23479" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7576" RevisionGUID="62952246-16cf-432e-967f-d382da19aff4" CreationDate="2017-06-15T16:04:53.927" UserId="6411" Text="2-in-1 phablet/laptop - detachable keyboard, long battery life, 3G/4G sim slot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23480" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7576" RevisionGUID="62952246-16cf-432e-967f-d382da19aff4" CreationDate="2017-06-15T16:04:53.927" UserId="6411" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;4g&gt;&lt;detachable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23481" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="745fa335-8d6c-4271-b00c-0e49ab2ce5f6" CreationDate="2017-06-15T17:54:01.110" UserId="6312" Comment="55" />
  <row Id="23486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6709" RevisionGUID="1f7c7748-748f-4331-adde-72a1a14518d9" CreationDate="2017-06-16T00:59:44.540" UserId="5445" Comment="edited body" Text="There are VR headsets that you can use without being tethered to a desktop computer, like the Samsung Gear VR headset, the Google Cardboard headset, and the Google Daydream View headset, but those only feature rotational tracking, not positional tracking.  Conversely, there are VR headsets that feature both rotational tracking and positional tracking, like the Oculus Rift headset and the HTC Vive headset, but they require being tethered to a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my question is, are there any commercially available VR headsets that both have positional tracking AND do not require being tethered to a desktop computer?  Such a headset would have to use so-called &quot;inside-out&quot; positional tracking, where instead of using lasers or other external sensors, the positional tracking is done from within the VR headset or within the phone connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that various demos for this kind of headset were showcased in CES 2017 this month, but are there any that you can buy right now?  Again, I want something that you can use anywhere, even if you're not near a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to give an indication of what I'm looking for, here are some examples of inside-out tracking VR headsets which are NOT commercially available yet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Facebook's [Oculus Santa Cruz](http://www.theverge.com/2016/10/6/13193558/oculus-connect-santa-cruz-wireless-inside-out-tracking-prototype)&#xD;&#xA;- Google's Worldsense&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft [Hololens](http://www.roadtovr.com/microsoft-hololens-inside-out-tracking-augmented-reality-virtual-reality-ar-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- Intel's [Project Alloy](http://gizmodo.com/intels-project-alloy-is-what-a-vr-system-should-be-1790818104)&#xD;&#xA;- AMD's [Sulon Q](http://sulon.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo Labs' [Linq](https://www.linqmr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Qualcomm's [Snapdragon VR835](https://www.qualcomm.com/news/releases/2017/02/23/qualcomm-introduces-snapdragon-835-virtual-reality-development-kit)&#xD;&#xA;- Eonite's [Vantage headset](http://www.etcentric.org/eonite-perception-debuts-vr-headset-with-inside-out-tracking/)&#xD;&#xA;- uSens [Color Fingo](http://uploadvr.com/usens-offers-position-tracking-mobile-vr-sdk-dev-kits-fingo-series/)&#xD;&#xA;- Dacuda's [MMI](https://virtualrealityreporter.com/mindmaze-partners-dacuda-room-scale-vr/)&#xD;&#xA;- [Magic Leap](http://magicleap.com)&#xD;&#xA;- [VicoVR](http://vicovr.com/)&#xD;&#xA;- Pico Neo CV&#xD;&#xA;- [Univrses](http://univrses.com/site/ar-vr.php)&#xD;&#xA;- ODG'a [R-8 and R-9](https://next.reality.news/news/hands-with-osterhout-design-groups-r-8-r-9-smartglasses-0176502/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So as you can see, there's currently an arms race between major tech companies as to who can come out with a product first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23487" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="e80b02f4-caef-4f34-bd2f-5e9975b5e169" CreationDate="2017-06-16T06:31:59.870" UserId="1808" Comment="lower expextations" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV *(through HDMI)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power line based communications are ok, as long as they support the huge interference created by the local electricty provider *(they use their wires as network with their own protocol and they are reports of X10 commanded lights that light at random)*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23488" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="e80b02f4-caef-4f34-bd2f-5e9975b5e169" CreationDate="2017-06-16T06:31:59.870" UserId="1808" Comment="lower expextations" Text="Wireless HDMI transmitter / receiver for less than 200€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7578" RevisionGUID="d41ae591-697d-4f0d-a79a-eef7dcf1b43c" CreationDate="2017-06-16T08:15:59.863" UserId="273" Text="I'm looking for options to replace my current mouse which has some interesting features, but not all I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must-Haves / Hard Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Price must be &lt;100€ in Germany&#xD;&#xA; - The configuration software must work with Windows 10 Creator's Update&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse needs to have at least two clickable buttons additionally to a standard clickable scroll-wheel and the left- and right mouse buttons&#xD;&#xA; - The configuration software must be able to assign the following actions:&#xD;&#xA;  - Open Windows Explorer (win-key + e)&#xD;&#xA;  - Copy (Ctrl+c)&#xD;&#xA;  - Paste (Ctrl+v)&#xD;&#xA;  - Open Start (win-key)&#xD;&#xA;  - Double-Click&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse _must_ feature a sensor that either has no hardware mouse acceleration or where it can be turned off through the configuration software&#xD;&#xA; - It must be wired and use USB as its interface&#xD;&#xA; - It must feature a closed design, that is it must not be / look like the Mad Catz RAT series&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**_Really_ Nice-To-Haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse allows me to program 4 of the 5 above listed functionalities at once, ie it has either 4 buttons or features something like a &quot;shift&quot; button&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse works out of the box with Windows using default drivers (HID)&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse can save its programming and apply it to new machines without the configuration software installed (ie if I configure ExtraButton1 to be &quot;copy&quot; it must work on all machines out-of-the-box)&#xD;&#xA; - The mouse should last &gt;5 years, for the sake of comparability we set this requirement equal with &quot;has &gt;2 years of manufacturer warranty&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Neat features:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A configurable lift distance&#xD;&#xA; - A configurable DPI value&#xD;&#xA; - Configurable weight&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Big&quot; size" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23490" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7578" RevisionGUID="d41ae591-697d-4f0d-a79a-eef7dcf1b43c" CreationDate="2017-06-16T08:15:59.863" UserId="273" Text="Linear, durable and programmable mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23491" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7578" RevisionGUID="d41ae591-697d-4f0d-a79a-eef7dcf1b43c" CreationDate="2017-06-16T08:15:59.863" UserId="273" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="fcf97177-5983-4ac8-afca-076fafbceb50" CreationDate="2017-06-16T12:23:29.767" UserId="1808" Comment="lower expectations" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV *(through HDMI)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 200€ and/or are not sold in the € currency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power line based communications are ok, as long as they support the huge interference created by the local electricty provider *(they use their wires as network with their own protocol and they are reports of X10 commanded lights that light at random)*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7581" RevisionGUID="35fa9b8c-96b8-4e39-a190-cdcac054bc40" CreationDate="2017-06-16T16:43:10.363" UserId="6333" Text="Here's a couple options that I've found which might be appropriate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Technet C016 ($15)&#xD;&#xA;Manual Focus, Manual LED Brightness, Positive review on amazon for scanning QR codes, 5MP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech C615 ($33)&#xD;&#xA;Folded, flat design, Good autofocus and good movement, 8MP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech C920 ($60)&#xD;&#xA;Same as above; folded, flat design. Higher quality but higher price point, 15MP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech HD Webcam C310 ($29) Good quality, Flat, very flexible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23513" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="12b16c03-b24e-4188-8095-9bdaa8fc617f" CreationDate="2017-06-17T01:19:48.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23514" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="70137436-006e-443d-90f7-76b9577b7542" CreationDate="2017-06-17T05:31:27.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23516" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="af14accf-a920-4361-b568-5fc9456b3a6f" CreationDate="2017-06-17T15:36:36.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23517" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="4306a6ce-ce49-4e98-a78f-2da89158c5db" CreationDate="2017-06-17T16:08:17.133" UserId="5043" Text="I bought a CPU with AM3 socket. I got DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I plug it in on my mobo I got a message that the mobo can only support 75 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU has 150 watt TDP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can access windows once in a while. But now I no longer can. I have no idea how to know the CPU type. I know it's AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need mobo that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;support 150 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;uses DDR3 memory&#xD;&#xA;have AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;Price around $100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would work?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23518" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="4306a6ce-ce49-4e98-a78f-2da89158c5db" CreationDate="2017-06-17T16:08:17.133" UserId="5043" Text="Need AMD motherboard with AM3 socket that can handle more than 75 watt TDP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23519" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="4306a6ce-ce49-4e98-a78f-2da89158c5db" CreationDate="2017-06-17T16:08:17.133" UserId="5043" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23521" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="087bc8fc-cc35-4628-9b85-62dd486e97f2" CreationDate="2017-06-17T21:46:02.007" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23522" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="d3e46bab-e73e-4994-9b87-8ec9c027e4da" CreationDate="2017-06-17T21:49:51.553" UserId="1" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="My current device is [Moto X (2013)][1], the dimensions are perfect. I am surprised to see that Android [does not offer many options in that dimension][2], I was unable to find any of the phones in the local market. Do you know of any device? I want a device close to pure Android. Since the Moto X was launched by Google the OS was nice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was sure that the Pixel line will have a device of the dimension as Apple's iPhone SE. I am looking for a device from Google, HTC or LG.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_x-5601.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nYearMin=2016&amp;nHeightMin=120&amp;nHeightMax=130&amp;nRamMin=2000&amp;sAvailabilities=1,2,5&amp;sOSes=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23523" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="d3e46bab-e73e-4994-9b87-8ec9c027e4da" CreationDate="2017-06-17T21:49:51.553" UserId="1" Comment="added 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="Pure Android device with 2GB+ RAM in the size of an iPhone SE?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7585" RevisionGUID="7c85a6a6-bb75-4bb7-9f13-bf09e60dfd1e" CreationDate="2017-06-18T03:53:02.330" UserId="6428" Text="I'm building a custom NAS as a backup server for multiple laptops in my house. I'm planning on buying four 2TB mechanical SATA hard drives that will be run in RAID 1 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Hard drives: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236342&amp;ignorebbr=1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drives will be going in this case here: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA00Y50Z9087&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case has 4 SATA cable connectors that will be connected to a SATA cable to USB adapter and they will be connected to my logic boards USB ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question for all of you is what power supply would you recommend to power ONLY the hard drives. This power supply will not be powering my logic board. I want to make sure that I won't fry a hard drive, but I also want to make sure that the power supply has enough wattage for expansion in the future (should I need use bigger hard drives / SSDs). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IMPORTANT POINTS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The hard drives must be powered by a power supply independent from my logic board. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The hard drives SATA data cables must be connected to USB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Because the SATA data cables are not connected to the logic board, the power supply must provide at least 2 SATA Power Connector cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I'm shooting in the ballpark of no more than $150. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note: I know this is a weird build and I understand the bottleneck of USB with SATA, but I want to see if this configuration is possible before completely buying all new hardware.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23536" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7585" RevisionGUID="7c85a6a6-bb75-4bb7-9f13-bf09e60dfd1e" CreationDate="2017-06-18T03:53:02.330" UserId="6428" Text="2TB NAS HDD Power Supply Recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23537" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7585" RevisionGUID="7c85a6a6-bb75-4bb7-9f13-bf09e60dfd1e" CreationDate="2017-06-18T03:53:02.330" UserId="6428" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7586" RevisionGUID="60cd0409-3101-485e-b93b-8db57ee884a4" CreationDate="2017-06-18T11:13:10.120" UserId="6429" Text="For a hobby project on Raspberry Pi3 I have two options for Speakers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [sparkfun speaker](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14023)&#xD;&#xA; - [adafruit speaker](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3369)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one will be louder?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23539" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7586" RevisionGUID="60cd0409-3101-485e-b93b-8db57ee884a4" CreationDate="2017-06-18T11:13:10.120" UserId="6429" Text="Which mini external speaker that has louder output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23540" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7586" RevisionGUID="60cd0409-3101-485e-b93b-8db57ee884a4" CreationDate="2017-06-18T11:13:10.120" UserId="6429" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7588" RevisionGUID="2d680a2c-646b-48ed-a9fe-98e5ebe0b075" CreationDate="2017-06-18T13:27:28.750" UserId="6209" Text="Sparkfun will be more louder as it can provide you with about 85dbA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23545" PostHistoryTypeId="16" PostId="7588" RevisionGUID="d6924c0d-b004-4848-b34d-bd644610af2c" CreationDate="2017-06-18T13:27:28.750" UserId="6209" />
  <row Id="23549" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7586" RevisionGUID="87d1d4a4-04b1-4fdd-a541-7ddd61ad0c4f" CreationDate="2017-06-18T13:59:58.743" UserId="6429" Comment="reworded the title" Text="Which mini external speaker has louder output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="0e6b46d0-ab75-4a7e-b2e2-c36e8ff89dca" CreationDate="2017-06-19T01:02:46.547" UserId="5445" Text="I just got an Oculus Rift, and now I need a PC to use it with.  My question is, what is the cheapest available PC that I can use an Oculus Rift with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I don't want to have to build a PC, I want something I can just buy and use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest I've found is [this Cyberpower PC](https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8020A2-Desktop-i5-7400-802-11AC/dp/B01NBL8BER/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497830814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=oculus+ready+pc), which is $720.  Does anyone know if there's anything cheaper?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23551" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="0e6b46d0-ab75-4a7e-b2e2-c36e8ff89dca" CreationDate="2017-06-19T01:02:46.547" UserId="5445" Text="What is the cheapest PC compatible with Oculus Rift?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23552" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="0e6b46d0-ab75-4a7e-b2e2-c36e8ff89dca" CreationDate="2017-06-19T01:02:46.547" UserId="5445" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23553" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="d8be48d6-bf44-4c8c-a998-2bcc7256cf03" CreationDate="2017-06-19T01:12:53.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23555" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="75efeb78-437e-4cfd-a066-3604964c9268" CreationDate="2017-06-19T14:40:00.203" UserId="1808" Comment="Rollback to [7fdb0015-1707-4088-bcb6-b6a0dcf1022e]" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology int their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV *(through HDMI)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23556" PostHistoryTypeId="7" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="75efeb78-437e-4cfd-a066-3604964c9268" CreationDate="2017-06-19T14:40:00.203" UserId="1808" Comment="Rollback to [7fdb0015-1707-4088-bcb6-b6a0dcf1022e]" Text="Wireless HDMI transmitter / receiver for less than 100€" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7590" RevisionGUID="977a7b47-91d4-4c27-8e16-f92916211e9b" CreationDate="2017-06-19T14:41:13.443" UserId="1808" Text="Finnally found one on the right corner : http://web.archive.org/web/20170619143550/https://www.leboncoin.fr/informatique/1150237579.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7591" RevisionGUID="8aae6349-21b4-41c2-8d6b-4d329c3fd68b" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:33:15.913" UserId="4546" Text="Recently, I've been eye-ing the [PNY CS2030][1], and it has quite the specs to share. According to the specs, it boasts 201kIOps Read, and 215kIOps write. Additionally, it says a read speed 2.75 GB/s and write of 1.5GB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for close comparing competitors. Specifically, under the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under 150 USD &#xD;&#xA; - 220 GB or more capacity&#xD;&#xA; - 150k IOps in read and write or more&#xD;&#xA; - At least 2GB/s read&#xD;&#xA; - At least 1GB/s write&#xD;&#xA; - M.2 Form Factor&#xD;&#xA; - available in the US (but it doesn't have to be exclusive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus if it beast out the PNY in some aspects for its price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you all in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/PNY-CS2030-240GB-Internal-M280CS2030-240-RB/dp/B01M08ERD1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23559" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7591" RevisionGUID="8aae6349-21b4-41c2-8d6b-4d329c3fd68b" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:33:15.913" UserId="4546" Text="M.2 drive with 200,000 IOps R/W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23560" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7591" RevisionGUID="8aae6349-21b4-41c2-8d6b-4d329c3fd68b" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:33:15.913" UserId="4546" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23561" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3879" RevisionGUID="f1eead55-6d2f-450c-8256-c4b908b565d9" CreationDate="2017-06-19T20:04:02.657" UserId="2623" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="DVDs come in various varieties*, for example DVD-R (RW) 4.7GB (4.4GiB). Using these for important data (backed up very week/month) alongside atleast 2 separate Hard Disks (possibly with at least storage medium one off site in case of disaster) can be effective method of ensuring your data is safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ DVD][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DVDs can be bought as 'spindles' *(which in packs of 100 4.7GB discs can be bought for around $20 USD)*, which can also act as form of rudimentary storage. DVD Wallets are also available if you want storage with possibly more protection:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DVD wallet][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optical discs are much less susceptible to electrical damage, as data is written as physical dents in the structure (it is a form of non-volatile storage) - complex components needed to read the data are not attached to the disc, reducing (integrated) points of failure and in some way making them waterproof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they are usually thin and fragile so are easy to break or scratch (and otherwise corrupt the data). Also if kept in poor conditions, the glue holding them together could break down and make them easy to split, or the layers containing the data could be damaged (by oxidation etc). However many DVDs do come with a lifetime warranty, and (more expensive) archive quality discs are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Formatting shouldn't be as much of a problem (heavily depending on format - see below*) as along as your DVD and ODD both can use the same standards they should work. HDDs and SSDs (and USB drives, SD cards, etc) require a partition table and filesystem formatting, and support for different formats for varies across systems (e.g. Windows only really supports NTFS and FAT (and exFAT), and possibly BTRFS - it needs more drivers to access other filesystems).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***DVD Formats** - They are A LOT of optical disc standards, and you need to bear in mind which format you are getting if you want to maintain compatibility (A DVD Multi with Read Write, Blu-ray, CD functionality may be able to read all of these):&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Supported by Panasonic, Toshiba, Apple Computer, Hitachi, NEC, Pioneer, Samsung and Sharp, also supported by the [DVD Forum](http://www.dvdforum.org/). Should be supported by most DVD-ROM equipment.:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc.&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD-RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;- Also ***DVD-RAM***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Supported by Philips, Sony, Hewlett-Packard, Dell, Ricoh, Yamaha and others. *In my experience*, some systems may not support them out of the box.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+R:** Can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc&#xD;&#xA;- **DVD+RW:** Read writeable (usually using phase transition), but may have shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;**Developed by Sony, Samsung, Sharp, Thomson, Hitachi, Matsushita, Pioneer and Philips, Mistubishi and LG Electronics.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Blu-ray:** Not as compatible and more expensive per disc, but can store more data (25GB single layer, 50GB dual layer, other formats can support 100GB+. Data density is a lot higher due to using a smaller blue wavelength. BD-RE discs are read-writable. A similar format called HD DVD *was* available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **M-DISC:** A hardware variation of DVD or Blu-ray standards that *apparently* should allow data to be stored for up to 1000 years due to resistance to temperature, humidity, ultraviolet and full-spectrum light etc. However requires a higher powered laser to be recorded too. See also **Archival Disc** (a similar archive orientated format by Sony and Panasonic designed for the disc to last at least 50 years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of the above formats are also available with more than one layer *(e.g. DL (Dual Layer)*, which are similar but can record more data. However, they are only supported by capable equipment (e.g. DL need Dual Layer support).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These standards vary because of [manufacturers implementing there own standards](http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Hardware_Software/DVDFormatsExplained.asp), or by the [use of different technologies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD#Laser_and_optics). Other optical formats can be compared [here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_high_definition_optical_disc_formats)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dWrwZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/F9wCS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="ed28f9db-cc2f-49f3-a9a1-294a63d04dfe" CreationDate="2017-06-20T00:08:37.203" UserId="5445" Comment="added 251 characters in body" Text="I just got an Oculus Rift, and now I need a PC to use it with.  My question is, what is the cheapest available PC that I can use an Oculus Rift with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I don't want to have to build a PC, I want something I can just buy and use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest I've found is [this Cyberpower PC](https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8020A2-Desktop-i5-7400-802-11AC/dp/B01NBL8BER/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497830814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=oculus+ready+pc), which is $720.  Does anyone know if there's anything cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I found a cheaper one, [another Cyberpower PC](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-ultra-vr-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-amd-radeon-rx-470-1tb-hard-drive/5655811.p?skuId=5655811) for $650.  Is there anything cheaper than that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7593" RevisionGUID="7a63a6a8-1a1f-4ad2-8241-473c150ac05d" CreationDate="2017-06-20T03:55:24.713" UserId="6435" Text="I'm looking to buy a laptop for use in many mobile CV projects, mostly using OpenCV. Namely some involving stereo vision and others involving object or location detection. I really prefer working in Linux, not looking for a config that will only work with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, I'm a bit disconnected from the latest and greatest computer hardware these days, being mostly involved in public cloud computing for the past few years. I'm looking for recommendations from low end to high end so I can compare and contrast for what I need long term. It would be nice to just pick up a laptop from newegg or amazon that has all that I need, but not averse to building something either. I'd also prefer lightweight, but no problem if the power sacrifice is too great here. (If you haven't guessed from my indecisiveness, just looking for any and all suggestions :) ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7593" RevisionGUID="7a63a6a8-1a1f-4ad2-8241-473c150ac05d" CreationDate="2017-06-20T03:55:24.713" UserId="6435" Text="Laptop config with GPU for Mobile Linux Computer Vision?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7593" RevisionGUID="7a63a6a8-1a1f-4ad2-8241-473c150ac05d" CreationDate="2017-06-20T03:55:24.713" UserId="6435" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23570" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="c33e3f4a-c8b7-42f8-9fb9-f7544474ede8" CreationDate="2017-06-20T05:17:56.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7594" RevisionGUID="21193ab8-4df7-497e-afd4-c2fded5d775f" CreationDate="2017-06-20T06:02:53.000" UserId="6047" Text="That PNY SSD is pretty good, but looks like I can just barely beat you out ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 250GB&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[$128 @ newegg][2] ships free in the US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB&#xD;&#xA; - 300,000 IOPS 4K Random Write&#xD;&#xA; - 330,000 IOPS 4K Random Read&#xD;&#xA; - 3.2 GB/s read&#xD;&#xA; - 1.5 GB/s write&#xD;&#xA; - M.2 Sata NVMe PCIe&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had great sucess with Samsung SSD products. The cheaper Samsung evo Sata (non M.2 and slower as a result) SSDs are also a great upgrade to older computers. I personally own a 940 evo and stand by it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LgKC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820147593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23581" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="7f642e4d-37b8-448f-b685-30ed9126c264" CreationDate="2017-06-20T08:18:58.007" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="396525f5-adaf-49ce-ad33-63c7fa98a3b7" CreationDate="2017-06-20T16:05:19.900" UserId="6404" Text="Asked before but topic was closed as it was deemed a tech support question more than a hardware recommend question, but I contest this, as we're looking to buy new hardware to solve problems, not reconfigure existing hardware, so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are a small GIS consulting company with 8-10 users in the office working most of the time. Our network setup has been very piecemeal up until now and we are feeling the growing pains as we start to access larger datasets (LiDAR).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have identified a few bottlenecks keeping our workflows slow and hope people here can offer some advice on best gains for least dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is what currently exists and what we are looking to replace with new purchases:&#xD;&#xA;-First is our router/switches, after the cable modem the network goes to a TP-Link TL-WR941ND, from there it goes to a TP-Link TL-SG1008D gbit switch, and that splits off to two TP-Link TL-SG1024D gbit switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Second is our main NAS drive. We have an older Synology DS207 drive which is the main data storehouse. Everyone is constantly accessing it through the day, so it gets a lot of read/write calls from many sources. It would be nice to split up this drive so the data is in more locations and we're not all trying to get through the same door to the same data, or at least get a NAS that can spread data across a few drives and handle everyone in the office all hitting it at once all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Third are the other NAS drives, mostly WD MyCloud &amp; Buffalo devices meant for home users, but we use them at work. Not ideal, but that's what we could afford as we band-aided problems. Ideally we would replace this array of drives with another NAS, or even the single main one if it has 8 bays of drives. etc. On that note, is one big 8 bay drive or 2 4 bay ones a batter approach?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not looking to go to 10gbit ethernet as we barely max out a 1gbit ethernet connection, and costs to upgrade all PC's is prohibitive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for hardware suggestions for ethernet switchers, unless the TP-Link ones we have should be doing the trick, and NAS drives to house 4-10TB of data (ie. either one big brick or a few smaller devices). Would be nice to have a NAS with some RAID redundancy, but we already back up our data every night to external drives and take them off site, so the NAS's can be all production space, unless the drives are hot-swappable and we could pop out the backup drive each night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any thoughts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="396525f5-adaf-49ce-ad33-63c7fa98a3b7" CreationDate="2017-06-20T16:05:19.900" UserId="6404" Text="Advice for amll GIS shop looking to replace network bottlenecks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23586" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="396525f5-adaf-49ce-ad33-63c7fa98a3b7" CreationDate="2017-06-20T16:05:19.900" UserId="6404" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="8c7691ba-ea08-4471-8af7-92f647a62000" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:36:32.393" UserId="5217" Comment="Removed unnecessary info" Text="I'm looking to buy a smartphone in the U.S. that has NFC and clean Android (i.e., no bloatware). I'm also looking for a phone that is reasonably priced and that has a decent processor. I know these specs are rather vague, but I was thinking something along the lines of the moto G5. (Hopefully that will make it a bit clearer.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unsurprisingly, my first impulse was to buy the moto G5, until I found out that for some reason it doesn't come with NFC _only_ in the US. So now I'm trying to find similar phones with similar prices and specs, which is hard because the Moto G really does a very nice job of making good affordable  phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the only thing that came close were the new Nokia phones that were announced, but I still don't know the price and the specs don't seem to be as good as the Moto G specs. Also, although it should be released in the second trimester of 2017, no news as to a US release date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: Another alternative is to somehow buy a Moto G5 with NFC in the U.S. via some non-shady path, but I'm unaware of how to do that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23588" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="4adedb2e-a3e1-4c8c-9aee-c6152c3c1cdd" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:37:05.677" UserId="5217" Comment="56" />
  <row Id="23591" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="515a4e31-169e-4847-a92a-4f23e4058e33" CreationDate="2017-06-20T22:27:17.873" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[7569],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23592" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="46ea6d9b-0b3e-4d14-ab3f-660d9f761f4a" CreationDate="2017-06-20T22:27:26.440" UserId="8" Comment="to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7569/network-hardware-advice-for-a-small-gis-shop" />
  <row Id="23594" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="7600" RevisionGUID="1ef48b21-ec65-4658-acc2-fd7ac2670a6d" CreationDate="2017-06-20T22:27:26.440" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23598" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="5a6945d9-1acb-43aa-af59-392d8ad76228" CreationDate="2017-06-21T01:39:27.510" UserId="5043" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="I bought a CPU with AM3 socket. I got DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I plug it in on my mobo I got a message that the mobo can only support 75 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU has 150 watt TDP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can access windows once in a while. But now I no longer can. I have no idea how to know the CPU type. I know it's AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need mobo that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;support 150 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;uses DDR3 memory&#xD;&#xA;have AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;Price around $100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: I found my CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Phenom II x61055t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that TDP is above 95 watt and my previous mobo can't handle it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="3ab7ed2b-0e3d-41f3-ac3e-1090db4c7833" CreationDate="2017-06-21T01:45:36.430" UserId="5043" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I bought a CPU with AM3 socket. I got DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I plug it in on my mobo I got a message that the mobo can only support 75 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU has 150 watt TDP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can access windows once in a while. But now I no longer can. I have no idea how to know the CPU type. I know it's AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need mobo that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;support 150 watt CPU&#xD;&#xA;uses DDR3 memory&#xD;&#xA;have AM3 slot&#xD;&#xA;Price around $100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: I found my CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Phenom II x6 1055t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that TDP is above 95 watt and my previous mobo can't handle it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23600" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7412" RevisionGUID="b02b71c7-83f5-4998-98fd-97ed5933878f" CreationDate="2017-06-21T04:30:31.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23601" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="619cdb95-a938-4842-a8f4-18b9fa6caea8" CreationDate="2017-06-21T07:32:04.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23611" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="f6c1368e-3d34-4355-8e92-b9670cf0e7b6" CreationDate="2017-06-21T22:54:16.003" UserId="5445" Comment="57" />
  <row Id="23613" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1701" RevisionGUID="3bf8291a-ca2e-44bd-9614-a69395ce5378" CreationDate="2017-06-22T00:46:49.027" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="46bb746d-eb6d-4a32-a229-a897b07676f8" CreationDate="2017-06-22T04:10:50.877" UserId="6435" Text="https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/compare-products.html?productIds=97470%2C97150%2C97144&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be building a small form factor desktop GPU workstation (AI, ML, Computer Vision development) with an NVIDIA Quadro P600. I've narrowed it down to the CPU's in the above comparison. They are all pretty similar in price and specs, but what would you all choose if it were you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, I'll mainly be using Linux / Windows but I'd like to possibly use this as a hackintosh, so let me know if any one of these is incompatible there, but not really that important if it's not. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23616" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="46bb746d-eb6d-4a32-a229-a897b07676f8" CreationDate="2017-06-22T04:10:50.877" UserId="6435" Text="Recommendation for a GPU workstation, the following Intel comparison?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23617" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="46bb746d-eb6d-4a32-a229-a897b07676f8" CreationDate="2017-06-22T04:10:50.877" UserId="6435" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23618" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="7e963d37-be87-44f9-9530-1728340a0314" CreationDate="2017-06-22T04:17:04.417" UserId="6435" Comment="edited title" Text="CPU recommendation for a GPU workstation, the following Intel comparison?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7605" RevisionGUID="bdcbb818-10f8-4156-9e99-a28fbd745044" CreationDate="2017-06-22T10:20:53.533" UserId="6411" Text="Well, after another bout with search engines I had a stroke of luck and found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Aspire Switch 10 V Slim Aluminium Detachable 2-in-1 laptop][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;with various discounts and offers it was for £200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I'm able to see this gadget is designed so that it can be used as a phone, so while no one will actually use it as one, it meets all the requirements with style.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife loves it. She would prefer it pink, obviously, but silver brushed aluminium is the next best thing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also this is HD display model, which works better from battery life perspective,  but in case this is important, the Switch 10V line has several models, including one with FHD display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications, in case one would be interested and/or the link goes dead:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Processor			Intel Atom x5-Z8300 Quad Core (1.44GHz, 2MB Cache, Burst to 1.84GHz)&#xD;&#xA;    Screen				10.1&quot; (1280x720 HD Resolution)&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System	Microsoft Windows 10 Home 32-bit&#xD;&#xA;    RAM					2GB&#xD;&#xA;    Solid State Drive	32GB&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Hard Drive	Not Included - 32GB eMMC&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive		Not Included (Designed To Be Thin &amp; Light) - External Optical Drive Available Seperately for £29.99&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics			Integrated (Intel HD Graphics) &#xD;&#xA;    Wireless LAN		Wireless (802.11b/g/n Wireless) &#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth			Bluetooth 4.0 &#xD;&#xA;    Integrated Webcam	Integrated Dual Webcam with Microphone (2MP Front, 5MP Back)&#xD;&#xA;    Card Reader			Micro SD Slot &#xD;&#xA;    USB Ports			1x USB 3.1 Type C, 1x USB 2.0 (in Keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;    Speakers			Integrated Sound System &#xD;&#xA;    Charge Time			2.5 Hours &#xD;&#xA;    HDMI Port			1x Micro HDMI &#xD;&#xA;    Warranty			Acer 12 Months Collect &amp; Return Warranty &#xD;&#xA;    Battery Life		7-8 Hours (up to 8 hours with power management)&#xD;&#xA;    Weight				1-2 Kg (This Model 1.15 Kg)&#xD;&#xA;    Product Type		Convertible &#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Type		Laptop Keyboard Detachable&#xD;&#xA;    3G					Integrated 3G Module (Supports LTE/4G)&#xD;&#xA;    Colour				Grey&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.saveonlaptops.co.uk/NT.G5YEK.002-Acer-Aspire-Switch-10-V-Slim-Aluminium-D_2076034.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23623" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7567" RevisionGUID="f6881df9-12fd-401a-aa96-83427d8fb62f" CreationDate="2017-06-22T12:07:06.553" UserId="6402" Comment="58" />
  <row Id="23627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7608" RevisionGUID="71d5444b-6f19-41b5-afa3-8300918f5625" CreationDate="2017-06-22T15:25:30.417" UserId="1885" Text="You may want to consider the [Microsoft Surface 3 LTE][1]. I have one myself, and really like it. I specifically purchased it for it's built-in LTE capability, because I find looping WiFi through a phone or using a dongle awkward. Unfortunately, Surface 3 is no longer available direct from Microsoft - I don't know what the other options in your area are. You mentioned that refurbished or secondary market options are acceptable, so that would be your best bet anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other key feature is the fact that it runs a real OS, not limited portable-specific OS (like Android or iOS). I wanted to be able to run proper Microsoft Office applications on it, including VBA-scripted macros, which is something the portable versions of applications could not do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a keyboard and pen available. I recommend one or the other. The keyboard and it's touchpad are surprisingly good for their thinness, and the pen is very nice for when you're walking around holding it in-hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've included the specs here, just in case they drop it from the website, too. If at all possible, you'll want to get the 4 GB RAM/128 GB SSD version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions: 10.52 x 7.36 x 0.34 in (267 x 187 x 8.7 mm), 1.37 lbs. (622g)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Display: 10.8” 1920 x 1280 (214 PPI) 3:2 aspect ratio 10-point multi-touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Memory &amp; Storage: 2GB RAM with 64GB storage, 4GB RAM with 128GB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Processor: Quad Core Intel Atom™ x7-Z8700 with Intel HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensors: Ambient light sensor, Proximity sensor, Accelerometer, Gyroscope, Magnetometer, GPS in LTE-enabled models&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Ports: Full-size USB 3.0, Mini DisplayPort, Micro SD card reader, Micro USB charging port, Headset jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Camera: 3.5MP front-facing, 8.0MP rear-facing camera with autofocus, with 1080p HD video recording&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: Up to 10 hours of video playback&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Audio: Microphone &amp; Speakers built-in&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi: 802.11ac Wi-Fi wireless networking; IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n compatible, Bluetooth 4.0 wireless technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LTE: Unlocked SIM (non-AT&amp;T): UMTS/HSPA/HSPA+: 850, 900, 1900, 2100 MHz&#xD;&#xA;4G LTE: 700 (Band 17), 800 (Band 20), 850 (Band 5), 1700 (Band 4), 1800 (Band 3), 1900 (Band 2), 2100 (Band 1), 2600 (Band 7) MHz&#xD;&#xA;oth 4.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/surface/en-us/devices/surface-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23628" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="8d634cb6-2033-4743-87e6-8652b7460a7c" CreationDate="2017-06-22T16:54:21.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7609" RevisionGUID="87485dfa-1b2b-4e82-9017-8b3be5623945" CreationDate="2017-06-22T17:02:13.580" UserId="273" Text="It depends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to use ECC (error checking and correcting) RAM, you _have to_ get the Xeon. If you don't want to use ECC, which is more expensive than normal RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to get your own CPU cooler, but rather want to use a stock one, get the i5-7600 because it is the only one from that list that can be shipped with a stock Intel air cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any other case the i5-7600K is the superior choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It has a higher TDP, meaning it can clock higher for longer.&#xD;&#xA; - It has an integrated GPU (as opposed to the Xeon) which can be used to dedicate the Quadro to data-crunching.&#xD;&#xA; - It can easily be over-clocked given appropriate cooling.&#xD;&#xA; - It has a higher default clock than the other CPUs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7584" RevisionGUID="af364dee-ab6e-4b35-ab4d-5f644bef5d95" CreationDate="2017-06-22T21:02:56.153" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 251 characters in body" Text="I have an AMD Phenom II x6 1055t CPU (AM3 socket), and DDR3 RAM. My motherboard can only support CPUs up to 75 watt TDP, and my CPU is 150W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please recommend me a motherboard that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supports a 150W TDP CPU&#xD;&#xA; - Uses an AM3 socket&#xD;&#xA; - Has DDR3 RAM slots&#xD;&#xA; - Costs around $100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="73e6f13f-e2ba-494d-aa4a-2a3f49536697" CreationDate="2017-06-22T23:36:30.210" UserId="5445" Comment="edited body" Text="I just got an Oculus Rift, and now I need a PC to use it with.  My question is, what is the cheapest available PC that I can use an Oculus Rift with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**: I don't want to have to build a PC, I want something I can just buy and use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest I've found is [this Cyberpower PC](https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8020A2-Desktop-i5-7400-802-11AC/dp/B01NBL8BER/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497830814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=oculus+ready+pc), which is $720.  Does anyone know if there's anything cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I found a cheaper one, [another Cyberpower PC](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-ultra-vr-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-amd-radeon-rx-470-1tb-hard-drive/5655811.p?skuId=5655811) for $650.  Is there anything cheaper than that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="08f3989b-ee1e-4001-8124-79b5f3d432f2" CreationDate="2017-06-23T08:26:06.803" UserId="1410" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a 9 bit UART.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Support would preferably be on-board, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23643" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="250d3e36-a4cb-4cce-b5bb-2e98eff97884" CreationDate="2017-06-23T10:10:52.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7611" RevisionGUID="45be1715-90d5-416f-9505-b39a9f5fdd06" CreationDate="2017-06-23T13:18:06.913" UserId="4237" Text="**I am looking for a single modem/wireless router (or just a wireless router) that can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, each of which are to *separate* connections?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See below for context.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are such that I need to have a minimum of three Wi-Fi networks available in a particular building. More specifically, these networks would be as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Wi-Fi Network 1** provides a direct connection to the internet (so that three users can browse the web, check email, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - **Wi-Fi Network 2** provides a connection to VPN 1 (using Network 1 above) so that two users can connect to their work VPN&#xD;&#xA; - **Wi-Fi Network 3** provides a connection to VPN 2 (using Network 1 above) so that one user can also connect to their work VPN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The catch is all three Wi-Fi networks need to be available simultaneously, each with their own passwords so that the VPN 1 network can only be accessed by its two users and likewise the VPN 2 network only accessible to its one user. Wi-Fi Network 1 can be accessible to all, but still needs to be secured.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two obvious options are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. have an ADSL modem/router connect to the internet and wirelessly share this, and then have two separate individual routers physically connected to that via ethernet to connect to and share their respective VPNs, or&#xD;&#xA; 2. have an ADSL modem/router connect to the internet and wirelessly share this, and configure each individual device (computers, smartphones, tablets, etc) to connect to their respective VPNs (using OpenVPN for example).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm looking for a more elegant solution as multiple devices need to connect at various times and none of the users are tech savvy. In other words the best user experience would be to just have all three networks available around the clock and for users to just switch Wi-Fi connections on their devices as required. Also, having multiple modems/routers is overkill as the building is not that big and at most we're talking six simultaneous users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If no single modem/router (or even just a router) can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, then what is the closest solution? For example, with Option 1 above, is there a router that can be configured to simultaneously connect to and share two separate VPNs so that I only need the one router connected to the ADSL modem/router rather than having two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note:** - The Wi-Fi networks do not all need to be on the same band (e.g. one could be on the 5GHz band and two on the 2.4GHz band, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I am also open to other suggestions to achieve the overall setup." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23648" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7611" RevisionGUID="45be1715-90d5-416f-9505-b39a9f5fdd06" CreationDate="2017-06-23T13:18:06.913" UserId="4237" Text="A single modem/wireless router that can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, each of which are to separate connections?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23649" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7611" RevisionGUID="45be1715-90d5-416f-9505-b39a9f5fdd06" CreationDate="2017-06-23T13:18:06.913" UserId="4237" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23654" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7608" RevisionGUID="918f51b0-612d-4847-a8bb-ac9a9d79a789" CreationDate="2017-06-23T13:55:35.143" UserId="1885" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="You may want to consider the [Microsoft Surface 3 LTE][1]. I have one myself, and really like it. I specifically purchased it for it's built-in LTE capability, because I find looping WiFi through a phone or using a dongle awkward. Unfortunately, Surface 3 is no longer available direct from Microsoft - I don't know what the other options in your area are. You mentioned that refurbished or secondary market options are acceptable, so that would be your best bet anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other key feature is the fact that it runs a real OS, not limited portable-specific OS (like Android or iOS). I wanted to be able to run proper Microsoft Office applications on it, including VBA-scripted macros, which is something the portable versions of applications could not do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a keyboard and pen available. I recommend one or the other, if not both. The keyboard and it's touchpad are surprisingly good for their thinness, and the pen is very nice for when you're walking around holding it in-hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've included the specs here, just in case they drop it from the website, too. If at all possible, you'll want to get the 4 GB RAM/128 GB SSD version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dimensions: 10.52 x 7.36 x 0.34 in (267 x 187 x 8.7 mm), 1.37 lbs. (622g)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Display: 10.8” 1920 x 1280 (214 PPI) 3:2 aspect ratio 10-point multi-touch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Memory &amp; Storage: 2GB RAM with 64GB storage, 4GB RAM with 128GB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Processor: Quad Core Intel Atom™ x7-Z8700 with Intel HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensors: Ambient light sensor, Proximity sensor, Accelerometer, Gyroscope, Magnetometer, GPS in LTE-enabled models&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Ports: Full-size USB 3.0, Mini DisplayPort, Micro SD card reader, Micro USB charging port, Headset jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Camera: 3.5MP front-facing, 8.0MP rear-facing camera with autofocus, with 1080p HD video recording&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Battery: Up to 10 hours of video playback&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Audio: Microphone &amp; Speakers built-in&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi: 802.11ac Wi-Fi wireless networking; IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n compatible, Bluetooth 4.0 wireless technology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LTE: Unlocked SIM (non-AT&amp;T): UMTS/HSPA/HSPA+: 850, 900, 1900, 2100 MHz&#xD;&#xA;4G LTE: 700 (Band 17), 800 (Band 20), 850 (Band 5), 1700 (Band 4), 1800 (Band 3), 1900 (Band 2), 2100 (Band 1), 2600 (Band 7) MHz&#xD;&#xA;oth 4.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/surface/en-us/devices/surface-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23658" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="6d3cc494-8368-46de-a51b-f0bf3cab4aed" CreationDate="2017-06-23T15:56:16.140" UserId="273" Comment="adressed comment, explicitely named CPUs and formatted the link more nicely" Text="I am looking at getting a CPU from the following list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Xeon E3-1220v6&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5-7600&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5-7600K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is a comparison of these CPUs on the Intel website for your convenience.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be building a small form factor desktop GPU workstation (AI, ML, Computer Vision development) with an NVIDIA Quadro P600. I've narrowed it down to the CPU's in the above comparison. They are all pretty similar in price and specs, but what would you all choose if it were you?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, I'll mainly be using Linux / Windows but I'd like to possibly use this as a hackintosh, so let me know if any one of these is incompatible there, but not really that important if it's not. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/compare-products.html?productIds=97470%2C97150%2C97144" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23659" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7604" RevisionGUID="6d3cc494-8368-46de-a51b-f0bf3cab4aed" CreationDate="2017-06-23T15:56:16.140" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 57, 6435 edit id of 614" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23663" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="de8fd041-d58e-4724-919a-fe2dbe79275f" CreationDate="2017-06-23T19:17:17.473" UserId="-1" Comment="55" />
  <row Id="23664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7615" RevisionGUID="300284b2-96e3-4b63-b078-b316c9a11333" CreationDate="2017-06-23T19:45:18.723" UserId="5001" Text="Well you really answered your own question.  You want the Moto G5, so really the option is to use the international version. This will work fine for you as long as you are going to be operating on a GSM Network.  IE ATT, T-Mobile, MetroPCS ETC.  It will not work on Verizon or Sprint based carriers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The warranty will be different as well and you should contact the seller about it.  Buying the product from Amazon will give you good options for returning if it does not work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please see the link below to the product on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Moto G5](https://www.amazon.com/XT1671-Finger-International-Version-Desbloqueado/dp/B06XH4396B/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498246294&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=moto+g5#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23669" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="7b190367-0a72-4f76-be9e-3e68279ef340" CreationDate="2017-06-23T21:17:48.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7617" RevisionGUID="1f1edafa-4778-4c66-b463-d0b3ebd5a34e" CreationDate="2017-06-23T22:03:20.503" UserId="5740" Text="I would start by saying that, as a person who had little knowledge about building a computer, but ended up doing exactly that, building is definitely the route i would take when building a Virtual Reality capable machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Couple of reasons for this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You get exponentially more power for your money.&#xD;&#xA;- I personally cannot bear to spend more than necessary, and market pre-built gaming computers generally have a large markup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that out of the way, Oculus actually have a recommended list of computers [here on their site](https://www.oculus.com/oculus-ready-pcs/). One that sticks out to me in the kind of price range you are mentioning above is the [Lenovo IdeaCentre Y700](http://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/desktops-and-all-in-ones/ideacentre/y700/ideacentre-Y700-34ISH/p/99IC9Y70219).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first in the range of these models actually starts at $649, which should have plenty enough power to run VR games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is actually a reason why I would recommend this over your $650 Cyberpower PC, (some people are not going to like this), but it has a NVidia GPU. In my experience, most (not all) VR experiences run much better on NVidia cards, but don't hold me to that as I have no solid or documented proof, I have tried both and I personally preferred the NVidia experience overall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another point to mention is that this computer sports an Intel processor, but that AMD vs Intel is a very contentious topic, and I don't feel it is my place to start an argument on that. (I recommend Intel by the way :p)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I threw together a price on PCPartPicker, but for the ease of purchase and performance, I couldn't recommend the Y700 more, it seems like a really good deal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23671" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="1ce1731a-c0ac-4fa8-9be7-7a1319a74fa4" CreationDate="2017-06-23T22:20:40.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="ab2e523b-fc3a-4833-90ca-33f0d4acefbd" CreationDate="2017-06-23T23:35:50.623" UserId="5445" Comment="added 154 characters in body" Text="I just got an Oculus Rift, and now I need a PC to use it with.  My question is, what is the cheapest available PC that I can use an Oculus Rift with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**: I don't want to have to build a PC, I want something I can just buy and use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest I've found is [this Cyberpower PC](https://www.amazon.com/CYBERPOWERPC-GXiVR8020A2-Desktop-i5-7400-802-11AC/dp/B01NBL8BER/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497830814&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=oculus+ready+pc), which is $720.  Does anyone know if there's anything cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I found a cheaper one, [another Cyberpower PC](http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-ultra-vr-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-amd-radeon-rx-470-1tb-hard-drive/5655811.p?skuId=5655811) for $650.  Is there anything cheaper than that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 2: I ultimately went with the $720 Cyberpower PC I linked to above.  So my question is now moot.  But I'll leave it up for the benefit of others." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23673" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7589" RevisionGUID="372deff0-b619-427e-860e-c2aa6132e11a" CreationDate="2017-06-23T23:38:16.950" UserId="5445" Comment="57" />
  <row Id="23674" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="ebce4d30-e8d7-43c0-8f97-b4a4000099c4" CreationDate="2017-06-24T01:20:43.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23694" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="889fe688-a5a8-4748-ac39-f8be48960d60" CreationDate="2017-06-25T15:21:58.770" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23697" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="785160a4-de28-4a6a-8f2e-5412ea55c99f" CreationDate="2017-06-25T19:23:44.957" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7622" RevisionGUID="5ade5665-ddd9-42e5-ac9d-681b1f0cd7b1" CreationDate="2017-06-25T19:56:26.497" UserId="6471" Text="I'm working on a proof-of-concept for a project and I need a device to sit between a keyboard and a laptop/desktop. The device will have two modes: &quot;regular mode&quot; where it passes along all input it receives from the keyboard as keystrokes, and &quot;secure mode&quot; where it loads all input from the keyboard into the clipboard, pastes it on a button press, and immediately clears the clipboard.  I'd like to use USB for ease of use.  Since it's a proof of concept, I don't need perfectly suited hardware for now (i.e., if a Raspberry Pi or Arduino can this, that works). It should ideally be powered by the computer, but that's not a requirement at this point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23699" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7622" RevisionGUID="5ade5665-ddd9-42e5-ac9d-681b1f0cd7b1" CreationDate="2017-06-25T19:56:26.497" UserId="6471" Text="1 USB device, 1 USB host, ability to copy/paste text" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23700" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7622" RevisionGUID="5ade5665-ddd9-42e5-ac9d-681b1f0cd7b1" CreationDate="2017-06-25T19:56:26.497" UserId="6471" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23702" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7593" RevisionGUID="305eabc2-8323-4d65-84f4-8ce16415da86" CreationDate="2017-06-25T20:15:12.133" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23705" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="e326d70d-91d7-4c32-8080-8260f421bfa8" CreationDate="2017-06-25T20:17:32.447" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 42 characters in body" Text="I have been searching for a low power way to serve a configuration page over WiFi. I have a concept working on a WR703n router, serving a configuration page for an arduino project. The whole thing, however consumes about 150mA just sitting there idle. The goal is to run this off a lead battery and solar panel setup so I'm trying to bring down the power consumption as much as possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best idea, I have is to use an ESP8266 module for the server part but that would probably shave off 30mA at most. There won't be an AP in range so I could use sleep modes on the ESP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So can anyone suggest a WiFi server, that uses less power, than the ESP module in AP mode?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23706" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7623" RevisionGUID="61869f25-c934-49e0-9410-18af47c2124d" CreationDate="2017-06-25T20:19:51.780" UserId="4350" Text="My Dell XPS laptop is very nice, but the keyboard and its trackpad are less than ideal for a full day's work, or a quick gaming session. I'm looking for a keyboard I can put in my bag with my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA;- Full-size shift keys on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup)&#xD;&#xA;- Tactile marks on &lt;kbd&gt;F&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;J&lt;/kbd&gt; keys to assist with blind typing&#xD;&#xA;- Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements&#xD;&#xA;- No trackpad&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches. I *love* the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great&#xD;&#xA;- Clearly separated function keys: so some space between &lt;kbd&gt;ESC&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt;, between &lt;kbd&gt;F4&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;F5&lt;/kbd&gt; and so forth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless&#xD;&#xA;- Under $100&#xD;&#xA;- Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control)&#xD;&#xA;- Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not *too* loud&#xD;&#xA;- Wrist-rest&#xD;&#xA;- N-Key rollover&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer *not* to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one.&#xD;&#xA;- LED lighting.&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys.&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Corsair K70 gaming keyboard with Cherry MX red switches for my desktop PC, and I *love* it. Basically I wish I could buy a more compact (e.g. no numpad), non LED lighted, wireless version of that. Perhaps that helps in recommending something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23707" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7623" RevisionGUID="61869f25-c934-49e0-9410-18af47c2124d" CreationDate="2017-06-25T20:19:51.780" UserId="4350" Text="Compact keyboard with mechanical switches" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23708" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7623" RevisionGUID="61869f25-c934-49e0-9410-18af47c2124d" CreationDate="2017-06-25T20:19:51.780" UserId="4350" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="cf6ca70b-db1b-4808-ba84-866dca5bad69" CreationDate="2017-06-25T22:27:59.093" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="c6a69afc-298e-48ad-afd9-6d063e4d2980" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:22:25.550" UserId="5341" Text="I run a solar power station so have paired RPi/Arduino Nano systems all over the place measuring voltages and temperatures, etc.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I began using one with a large screen as a coordinator for them, using multiple RDP connections so I can see their individual gnuplot-generated plots all on one screen.  It works great but with only 1 GB RAM it is a bit limited.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, without spending a whole lot, what would be the best next step up?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23711" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="c6a69afc-298e-48ad-afd9-6d063e4d2980" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:22:25.550" UserId="5341" Text="I love my Raspberry Pi3B as a workstation, but what is the next step better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23712" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="c6a69afc-298e-48ad-afd9-6d063e4d2980" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:22:25.550" UserId="5341" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="39b4e3bb-2d2d-4784-84e0-048605861685" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:22:25.550" UserId="5341" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23714" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="6c3c12fb-26b5-47f7-8567-5f070603ee66" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:36:54.070" UserId="5341" Comment="added 162 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is what it looks like to see 6 of the Pi graphs on the big screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [![\[1\]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEv0L.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23715" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="eb32f175-1333-4492-a4d7-04fcb3723521" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:43:17.997" UserId="5341" Comment="added 162 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="6be01412-c4e4-43dc-9df2-2a3de81963b9" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:52:46.700" UserId="5341" Comment="added 143 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23719" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="5fb9eaf8-d237-49b5-ab91-510f8129c357" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:03:02.057" UserId="5341" Comment="added 345 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="2cdea491-72ca-46b4-a781-6a1bd0cf2aab" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:09:17.857" UserId="5341" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="c5916f0b-bfdc-4c0b-ba9d-a95c4c06c87f" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:29:21.230" UserId="5341" Comment="added 233 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used a Hi-res RGB monitor until the 19&quot; wide-screen HDMI arrives (also under $30 on eBay, with free shipping)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not bad for a $38 computer, I say.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23722" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="4f3a0d79-f0b5-4b13-99b3-661d63827b4e" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:41:35.277" UserId="5341" Comment="added 483 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1][![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM is inexpensive on eBay, ($12 for another 4GB), as are hard drives (250GB for about $25 - and if you buy Seagate you can download their DiskWizard software to clone to the larger drive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used a Hi-res RGB monitor until the 19&quot; wide-screen HDMI arrives (also under $30 on eBay, with free shipping)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not bad for a $38 computer, I say.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23723" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="50c9465a-c2ad-47ab-8c3e-2a1d1e2076f6" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:47:30.890" UserId="5341" Comment="added 483 characters in body" Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  $38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs ubuntu 14.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I ran a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does require more memory to do more than just setup, but it is easy to find ddr-2 memory.  Total capacity is 8GB.  It comes with two 1GB memory sticks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some older 512M sticks for a total of 3GB and stress tested it by opening 42 tabs at once in Chromium.  It required about 2200M to do that, and evenly used the 2 cores.  It did not use the swap file.  All of this verified by the htop command.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM is inexpensive on eBay, ($12 for another 4GB), as are hard drives (250GB for about $25 - and if you buy Seagate you can download their DiskWizard software to clone to the larger drive).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  Whatever.  My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is adequate.  The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is full-size SATA.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard for outrigger hookups for cloning - SSDs in this size range are affordable so that plus extra ram will round this out to be the Linux machine I have wanted for years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only surprise is how long it is.  But that turns out to be a good thing because the motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  It has a side exhaust fan that is on top when I set it on its side.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the ventilation it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used a Hi-res RGB monitor until the 19&quot; wide-screen HDMI arrives (also under $30 on eBay, with free shipping)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not bad for a $38 computer, I say.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23724" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7544" RevisionGUID="dbd333f7-21e5-4ae4-9dc4-3b1230aa27b7" CreationDate="2017-06-26T04:42:22.203" UserId="5341" Comment="added 300 characters in body" Text="You can use normal WiFi Access Point routers for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one I use is the Foscam N300.  It works great for both ends of this application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just don't use the WAN ports unless you also intend to create a subnet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-- Unless it has built-in bridging that actually works.  I have tried several brands that claim to work but in practice they get confused.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it doesn't have bridging, or if it doesn't work, then set it up as a normal AP and just plug into a LAN port on them, which is always internally bridged to its WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router will think it has no WAN, but it should work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you use DHCP, make sure there is only one DHCP server on the entire subnet.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, as I do, just shut them all off and use static IPs, with the gateway address set to the closest router to the ISP.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23732" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="d3ac687a-1ff9-498c-bbb9-04f6a32f777e" CreationDate="2017-06-26T11:37:37.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23733" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7391" RevisionGUID="cb97b47e-d544-41de-81f1-ddf014e28a1e" CreationDate="2017-06-26T12:39:57.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23734" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7628" RevisionGUID="522cbdb7-e1c7-432c-b51e-24da8f5ed847" CreationDate="2017-06-26T15:05:24.527" UserId="6475" Text="&gt;I was given multiple answers explaining how it can't be done for various technical reasons. I don't care! Tell me how it can be done, or better, how it is done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not gonna get far with an attitude like that, but I guess I'll tell you again that what you're looking for doesn't exist. It's impractical to a level where trying to produce and market a product that fills your requirements would sell one unit, and that unit would be sold to you. There is no keyboard that has dynamic displays that would change in response to stimulus from the Linux OS. Keyboard manufacturers have trouble getting little LED screens for &quot;gaming&quot; keyboards to play nicely with AAA software titles on Windows; thus, there's definitely nothing that exists and even if it did you'd have to build all those interactions into your Linux distro yourself. Here are the options that I see available to you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Get a programmable board with different presets of keybindings. You may have a tough time finding something that works for you though, because a lot of these boards tend to be smaller and thus the multiple inputs per key scale as the number of keys gets smaller. If you look at an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard, for example, it's got 4 preset key combinations and one of those can be programmed as any layout you like. It's also got a ton of commands per key because it's a 60% size board. It is wireless but it's bluetooth, which I know you said you didn't want. Unfortunately almost all wireless keyboards that aren't $20 use bluetooth, especially the ones with the kind of programmable features you're looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Get two full size programmable boards and program one board for all of the primary key inputs and then the other board for all the secondary inputs and then buy custom keycaps for each board with only the symbol you want printed on them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sounds like you &quot;need&quot; option 2 because this issue is driving you nuts, and I get that. It sounds like what you &quot;want&quot; is something like option number 1, but that's never going to fulfill all of the standards you want to meet. You're either going to have to make a compromise here or get creative beyond my capabilities. Best of luck." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7630" RevisionGUID="6536d71a-d3d5-45d6-aa6b-30492e58053e" CreationDate="2017-06-26T15:59:58.320" UserId="6475" Text="https://www.amazon.com/M5A99FX-PRO-R2-0-990FX-Motherboard/dp/B008B6ONXK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498491905&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=asus+am3+motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This should work fine. Personally I splurged a bit and got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YDJHWM/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a pretty fantastic board, and they've come out with revision 3 since then which has M.2 SSD compatibility. I mean how much you spend depends on your upgrade schedule and whether or not you want to jump to ryzen later on, if you wanted to do that I wouldn't spend a ton on this board as your CPU is getting on in years (I rocked a Phenom II 965 BE until last year, loved that little guy). Both of these boards support my current FX-8350; this is relevant because your CPU's TDP is 125W according to the spec sheet on AMD's website, as opposed to 150W like you stated in your post. The FX-8350 also has a TDP of 125W, so both of these boards should support your CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Careful on your RAM by the way. Whatever board you buy, you need to grab a .pdf of their mobo manual and make sure that your current RAM kit is listed in there for compatibility. Not every RAM kit is manufacturer-tested, so unless you want to end up buying new RAM and waiting another two weeks for shipping after a frustrating Saturday afternoon of troubleshooting, check the literature and save yourself the hassle. Best place to start looking is just to look up your old motherboard, and find the slightly updated version of it. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7631" RevisionGUID="f451a1fb-2955-44ed-aa8a-6027e479fe22" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:10:37.627" UserId="6476" Text="If you are using Windows and are on a desktop, you can use the line-in and microphone jacks and go to the audio settings to hear both devices. You would then have audio control over those two inputs as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a laptop, you can purchase two ADC/microphone to usb devices and use the same method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Right click on your sound meter in Windows and select Recording&#xD;&#xA;    Devices.  &#xD;&#xA; 2. Right click on your microphone/line-input and click    properties.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Click on the Listen Tab. &#xD;&#xA; 4. Click on Listen to this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23738" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7632" RevisionGUID="5a6a2a1c-5b1f-4e88-8822-0d9321769d83" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:18:00.563" UserId="5740" Text="Alongside the option that Jeff mentioned, both the OnePlus 3T and the not yet released (and more pricey) OnePlus 5 both have NFC, with absolute ZERO bloatware apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people might contest that claim above, as they run a custom version of the latest android, but the only differences are that they sport a few optimisation and ease of use tweaks, and the boot up screen looks slightly different, as with most phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option slightly cheaper than the OnePlus 5, is the Blackberry Priv (Pretty much pure android). Blackberry android devices are notable for no to minimum bloatware, and they support NFC on pretty much all their hardware, including the Priv, since the Blackberry 10 OS, and more recently, Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7633" RevisionGUID="f2c0ee09-9157-4c5b-a54f-269bb258d2d9" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:29:44.257" UserId="6475" Text="This doesn't hit all of your checkboxes, but I like it quite a bit so I'll throw in a recommendation for an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard. I picked one up a few weeks ago because the robber dome boards at work were hurting my fingers. It's a pretty great board, but I'll go through your concerns so you have a decent rundown. For background, I've also got a K70 at home (cherry browns) and I went with cherry reds on my Anne.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- QWERTY layout = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Full-size shift keys on both sides = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup) = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Tactile marks on F and J keys to assist with blind typing = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements = This board can fit inside the box it was shipped in for protection and prevention of accidental key presses if you leave the bluetooth on, and then that box fits extremely comfortably inside my briefcase. The box is about the same length and height as my compact umbrella, but obviously a bit wider. You could definitely buy a case of some kind that would be more fashionable. I would say this keyboard is definitely smaller than what you stated you were looking for, and I was definitely a bit hesitant to buy it because of the size. That being said I have not found it to be a limiting factor since this isn't my primary board for home use. I probably would not buy it for that kind of use, personally, but it's excellent for portable use.&#xD;&#xA;- No trackpad = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches. I love the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great = Comes with genuine Cherry switches in a variety of styles.&#xD;&#xA;- Clearly separated function keys: so some space between ESC and F1, between F4 and F5 and so forth = Not gonna lie this one isn't so great. It's a compact board, and I'm still getting used to it as I've never had one before. I can definitely say that I'm getting used to the functionality and my speed is getting a lot better as time goes on. If I were using it at home as well as work it'd be even faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless - Bluetooth 4.0 built in, also has a USB cable.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $100 - Provided you can find them in stock they usually weigh in around $85.&#xD;&#xA;- Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control) - Programmable keys covers this&#xD;&#xA;- Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys - Negative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not too loud - Depends on the switch type. I got reds, have gotten no complaints at work from people who have never heard of mechanical keyboards before.&#xD;&#xA;- Wrist-rest - negative&#xD;&#xA;- N-Key rollover - affirmative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer not to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one. = negative&#xD;&#xA;- LED lighting. = affirmative and it's pretty cool, lots of different modes, etc. Can be hardware disabled via keyboard shortcut.&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys. = affirmative. Pretty useful for this board actually, it's got three different layout presets for different kinds of interfaces and has a fourth that is completely custom. I use a pretty specific database application at work so my preset will be based on streamlining how I interact with that program.&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D = It's there, I've never used it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff you should know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They've got a subreddit with guides for everything to do with this keyboard if you decide to get it. Firmware update and app installation (needed for the custom preset, I haven't done it yet that's happening this week) are a bit of a pain from the looks of things, but not too bad. There is no physical power switch. The company says you can just disable bluetooth and RGB and that will put the board into a kind of sleep mode, but you'll notice on that sub that a lot of people install physical switches to kill power and avoid accidental key presses while carrying the keyboard in a bag and having it connected to a mobile device like your phone. The mod looks easy and I'll probably end up doing it myself, most people say it takes less than an hour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not a perfect board but I'm liking it an awful lot. Amazon has the red switches version in stock here: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498494412&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=anne+pro+keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask any questions if I missed anything.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7633" RevisionGUID="ea29da56-0158-4f50-bd90-1a2757de52aa" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:46:05.223" UserId="6475" Comment="added 371 characters in body" Text="This doesn't hit all of your checkboxes, but I like it quite a bit so I'll throw in a recommendation for an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard. I picked one up a few weeks ago because the robber dome boards at work were hurting my fingers. It's a pretty great board, but I'll go through your concerns so you have a decent rundown. For background, I've also got a K70 at home (cherry browns) and I went with cherry reds on my Anne.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- QWERTY layout = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Full-size shift keys on both sides = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup) = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Tactile marks on F and J keys to assist with blind typing = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements = This board can fit inside the box it was shipped in for protection and prevention of accidental key presses if you leave the bluetooth on, and then that box fits extremely comfortably inside my briefcase. The box is about the same length and height as my compact umbrella, but obviously a bit wider. You could definitely buy a case of some kind that would be more fashionable. I would say this keyboard is definitely smaller than what you stated you were looking for, and I was definitely a bit hesitant to buy it because of the size. That being said I have not found it to be a limiting factor since this isn't my primary board for home use. I probably would not buy it for that kind of use, personally, but it's excellent for portable use.&#xD;&#xA;- No trackpad = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches. I love the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great = Comes with genuine Cherry switches in a variety of styles.&#xD;&#xA;- Clearly separated function keys: so some space between ESC and F1, between F4 and F5 and so forth = Not gonna lie this one isn't so great. It's a compact board, and I'm still getting used to it as I've never had one before. I can definitely say that I'm getting used to the functionality and my speed is getting a lot better as time goes on. If I were using it at home as well as work it'd be even faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless - Bluetooth 4.0 built in, also has a USB cable.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $100 - Provided you can find them in stock they usually weigh in around $85.&#xD;&#xA;- Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control) - Programmable keys covers this&#xD;&#xA;- Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys - Negative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not too loud - Depends on the switch type. I got reds, have gotten no complaints at work from people who have never heard of mechanical keyboards before.&#xD;&#xA;- Wrist-rest - negative&#xD;&#xA;- N-Key rollover - affirmative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer not to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one. = negative&#xD;&#xA;- LED lighting. = affirmative and it's pretty cool, lots of different modes, etc. Can be hardware disabled via keyboard shortcut.&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys. = affirmative. Pretty useful for this board actually, it's got three different layout presets for different kinds of interfaces and has a fourth that is completely custom. I use a pretty specific database application at work so my preset will be based on streamlining how I interact with that program.&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D = It's there, I've never used it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff you should know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They've got a subreddit with guides for everything to do with this keyboard if you decide to get it. Firmware update and app installation (needed for the custom preset, I haven't done it yet that's happening this week) are a bit of a pain from the looks of things, but not too bad. There is no physical power switch. The company says you can just disable bluetooth and RGB and that will put the board into a kind of sleep mode, but you'll notice on that sub that a lot of people install physical switches to kill power and avoid accidental key presses while carrying the keyboard in a bag and having it connected to a mobile device like your phone. The mod looks easy and I'll probably end up doing it myself, most people say it takes less than an hour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not a perfect board but I'm liking it an awful lot. Amazon has the red switches version in stock here: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498494412&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=anne+pro+keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask any questions if I missed anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just going to throw in a quick mention for CODE boards, as those are also highly rated and very popular for programming. They were the primary competition to the Anne Pro, and while I ended up not going with them they're a respectable company and may have something closer to the form factor that you're looking for, if that's an important enough concern for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7633" RevisionGUID="30f85f74-7fe0-4d13-b650-a931d21a28c2" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:46:42.597" UserId="6475" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="This doesn't hit all of your checkboxes, but I like it quite a bit so I'll throw in a recommendation for an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard. I picked one up a few weeks ago because the robber dome boards at work were hurting my fingers. It's a pretty great board, but I'll go through your concerns so you have a decent rundown. For background, I've also got a K70 at home (cherry browns) and I went with cherry reds on my Anne.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- QWERTY layout = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Full-size shift keys on both sides = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup) = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Tactile marks on F and J keys to assist with blind typing = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements = This board can fit inside the box it was shipped in for protection and prevention of accidental key presses if you leave the bluetooth on, and then that box fits extremely comfortably inside my briefcase. The box is about the same length and height as my compact umbrella, but obviously a bit wider. You could definitely buy a case of some kind that would be more fashionable. I would say this keyboard is definitely smaller than what you stated you were looking for, and I was definitely a bit hesitant to buy it because of the size. That being said I have not found it to be a limiting factor since this isn't my primary board for home use. I probably would not buy it for that kind of use, personally, but it's excellent for portable use.&#xD;&#xA;- No trackpad = affirmative&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches. I love the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great = Comes with genuine Cherry switches in a variety of styles.&#xD;&#xA;- Clearly separated function keys: so some space between ESC and F1, between F4 and F5 and so forth = Not gonna lie this one isn't so great. It's a compact board, and I'm still getting used to it as I've never had one before. I can definitely say that I'm getting used to the functionality and my speed is getting a lot better as time goes on. If I were using it at home as well as work it'd be even faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless - Bluetooth 4.0 built in, also has a USB cable.&#xD;&#xA;- Under $100 - Provided you can find them in stock they usually weigh in around $85.&#xD;&#xA;- Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control) - Programmable keys covers this&#xD;&#xA;- Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys - Negative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not too loud - Depends on the switch type. I got reds, have gotten no complaints at work from people who have never heard of mechanical keyboards before.&#xD;&#xA;- Wrist-rest - negative&#xD;&#xA;- N-Key rollover - affirmative&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer not to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one. = negative&#xD;&#xA;- LED lighting. = affirmative and it's pretty cool, lots of different modes, etc. Can be hardware disabled via keyboard shortcut.&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys. = affirmative. Pretty useful for this board actually, it's got three different layout presets for different kinds of interfaces and has a fourth that is completely custom. I use a pretty specific database application at work so my preset will be based on streamlining how I interact with that program.&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D = It's there, I've never used it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff you should know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They've got a subreddit with guides for everything to do with this keyboard if you decide to get it. Firmware update and app installation (needed for the custom preset, I haven't done it yet that's happening this week) are a bit of a pain from the looks of things, but not too bad. There is no physical power switch. The company says you can just disable bluetooth and RGB and that will put the board into a kind of sleep mode, but you'll notice on that sub that a lot of people install physical switches to kill power and avoid accidental key presses while carrying the keyboard in a bag and having it connected to a mobile device like your phone. The mod looks easy and I'll probably end up doing it myself, most people say it takes less than an hour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not a perfect board but I'm liking it an awful lot. Amazon has the red switches version in stock here: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498494412&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=anne+pro+keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask any questions if I missed anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just going to throw in a quick mention for CODE boards, as those are also highly rated and very popular for programming. They were the primary competition to the Anne Pro among keyboards I was looking at, and while I ended up not going with them they're a respectable company and may have something closer to the form factor that you're looking for, if that's an important enough concern for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23742" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7623" RevisionGUID="d54cdd4f-a00f-41f4-a8f9-ab04627d3cf5" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:48:29.670" UserId="4350" Comment="added 304 characters in body" Text="My Dell XPS laptop is very nice, but the keyboard and its trackpad are less than ideal for a full day's work, or a quick gaming session. I'm looking for a keyboard I can put in my bag with my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA;- Full-size shift keys on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup)&#xD;&#xA;- Tactile marks on &lt;kbd&gt;F&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;J&lt;/kbd&gt; keys to assist with blind typing&#xD;&#xA;- Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements&#xD;&#xA;- No trackpad&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches. I *love* the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great&#xD;&#xA;- Clearly separated function keys: so some space between &lt;kbd&gt;ESC&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;F1&lt;/kbd&gt;, between &lt;kbd&gt;F4&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;F5&lt;/kbd&gt; and so forth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless&#xD;&#xA;- Under $100&#xD;&#xA;- Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control)&#xD;&#xA;- Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;- Cursor keys (This requirement was added *after* [the first answer][1] popped up, until then I hadn't realized there would be options without them. I'm willing to consider keyboards without, but would probably prefer any with those keys.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Not *too* loud&#xD;&#xA;- Wrist-rest&#xD;&#xA;- N-Key rollover&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer *not* to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one.&#xD;&#xA;- LED lighting.&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable keys.&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Corsair K70 gaming keyboard with Cherry MX red switches for my desktop PC, and I *love* it. Basically I wish I could buy a more compact (e.g. no numpad), non LED lighted, wireless version of that. Perhaps that helps in recommending something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7633/4350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23743" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7632" RevisionGUID="e02e59c4-8a24-466f-beb2-dfdba61a7d5c" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:56:30.867" UserId="5740" Comment="added 407 characters in body; added 1 character in body" Text="Alongside the option that @Jeff mentioned, There is the [Blackberry Priv](http://www.ebay.com/itm/BlackBerry-Priv-STV100-1-Unlocked-GSM-4G-LTE-Android-18MP-Camera-Phone-Black-/322378018328?epid=611894718&amp;hash=item4b0f3a2e18:g:DHsAAOSw~OVWy3dT) for only $219 new off eBay US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This phone's bloatware is about as existent as Motorola phones. Also, defining bloatware for blackberry devices is somewhat complex. These devices do not show bloat in any form such as Samsung, instead the bloat is really slight overlay tweaks, which can be customised to a certain extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance wise, the Priv is one of the best phones I have had the pleasure to use, It just feels so slick and interruption free. It sports NFC too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One benefit is the lovely screen, and QWERTY keyboard that sits behind the  screen, sliding up and down, and doesn't really add to the psychological feeling of bulkiness. [The phone is only 9.4mm thick](https://uk.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/specifications), actually .1 mm slimmer than the Moto G5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitly recommend the phone, and even more recommend trying one out if you can. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23744" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7363" RevisionGUID="0ce644bc-2ad4-4b26-b068-b3a4d55e3ba1" CreationDate="2017-06-27T00:05:22.417" UserId="5217" Comment="56" />
  <row Id="23745" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="5b5245d4-7d21-4463-a0c8-f20929dd4177" CreationDate="2017-06-27T00:06:55.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23749" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="50f3a0ef-8d83-44ff-b8d6-106d660d505d" CreationDate="2017-06-27T02:06:54.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7636" RevisionGUID="17b9cd39-cf55-4d4b-8824-f2a7e4c72c05" CreationDate="2017-06-27T08:17:40.560" UserId="6479" Text="If you need the best specs under $900 than i will recommend you this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR82G0W?ie=UTF8 &#xD;&#xA;Acer VX 15&#xD;&#xA;i5-7300HQ processor&#xD;&#xA;16GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 OS&#xD;&#xA;15.6 inch FHD IPS display&#xD;&#xA;4GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti GPU..&#xD;&#xA;you can easily upgrade its storage but you have to Acer support for HDD upgrade complimentary kit so they can send you....&#xD;&#xA;The second one which i like the most is Dell Inspiron 7567 but if you are going to buy this one than i suggest you to buy it with IPS panel display instead of TN one that's what makes the laptop [best graphic design laptop][1] ........&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://laptopjar.com/best-laptops-for-graphic-design/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23765" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="0b2d9547-f2db-471c-8f2c-b21fe36dce7f" CreationDate="2017-06-27T16:27:58.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7571" RevisionGUID="1a27d5d9-5038-48fe-b6b4-6b4575903c12" CreationDate="2017-06-28T04:27:34.267" UserId="6407" Comment="Shortened, hopefully clarified" Text="Okay, so I originally posted this almost two weeks ago and it's gotten exactly zero attention.  (got me a tumbleweed badge too)  Surely someone knows of something, so I'll edit a bit and see if I can be more clear:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Runs entirely on USB, not USB power with separate analog signal&#xD;&#xA; - An analog 'set with USB adapter would be okay, if the PC only sees the one USB plug&#xD;&#xA;2. Has closed-back circumaural cans to block out ambient noise&#xD;&#xA;3. Has a microphone attached to one of the cans&#xD;&#xA;4. Can rotate those cans enough to hold one to my ear for a few seconds while the other stays mostly out of sight.&#xD;&#xA; - I've used some ear-only 'phones that rotate 180deg - that's really nice - and I've also tried some gaming 'sets that only go 90deg.  The 90's seem to be hit-or-miss whether they actually go far enough.&#xD;&#xA; - I'll also put it all the way on for other tasks, so I do need both ears.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found some gaming headsets that almost fit the bill, but it seems to be difficult to find some that both rotate far enough and can be purely USB as far as the PC is concerned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something that satisfies *all 4* requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23771" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7571" RevisionGUID="1a27d5d9-5038-48fe-b6b4-6b4575903c12" CreationDate="2017-06-28T04:27:34.267" UserId="6407" Comment="Shortened, hopefully clarified" Text="USB Headset: 2x circumaural with mic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23772" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7641" RevisionGUID="2b51f8af-1970-42ff-8034-919afa9255e9" CreationDate="2017-06-28T05:19:58.313" UserId="6407" Text="If you're somewhat decent with electronics, you can build a simple passive mixer with just the appropriate connectors and some 10k resistors from the parts section of RadioShack (or whoever sells them near you):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ceb63.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Grounds can all tie together directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The resistors prevent the inputs from being shorted to each other, so that none of them go into overload protection, and the technically weaker drive strength is still negligible for the line input that's going to receive this combined signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you end up with is the average of all the active signals (even if they're actively silent), rather than the sum, but the only real difference is the eventual volume of the final mix, which you can easily compensate for by turning it up slightly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What might be annoying about this is that if you unplug something, whatever's left will jump up a little bit in volume...unless you use normalled input jacks.  Normalled means they have switches built into them that are opened by the presence of a plug.  For example, a headphone jack might be normalled to some built-in speakers, but when you plug in the headphones, it opens that switch and the speakers stop.  In your case, you'd wire it to ground that input when the plug is removed, thus keeping it actively silent when you unplug something.  Then the volume stays the same no matter what's plugged in or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, of course, you can expand this idea as far as you want, in terms of channel count, features, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23773" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7641" RevisionGUID="6537c65e-e722-41d9-92b1-717e4ab589fd" CreationDate="2017-06-28T05:43:11.900" UserId="6407" Comment="Added the advanced version" Text="If you're somewhat decent with electronics, you can build a simple passive mixer with just the appropriate connectors and some 10k resistors from the parts section of RadioShack (or whoever sells them near you):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ceb63.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Grounds can all tie together directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The resistors prevent the inputs from being shorted to each other, so that none of them go into overload protection, and the technically weaker drive strength is still negligible for the line input that's going to receive this combined signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you end up with is the average of all the active signals (even if they're actively silent), rather than the sum, but the only real difference is the eventual volume of the final mix, which you can easily compensate for by turning it up slightly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What might be annoying about this is that if you unplug something, whatever's left will jump up a little bit in volume...unless you use normalled input jacks.  Normalled means they have switches built into them that are opened by the presence of a plug.  For example, a headphone jack might be normalled to some built-in speakers, but when you plug in the headphones, it opens that switch and the speakers stop.  In your case, you'd wire it to ground that input when the plug is removed, thus keeping it actively silent when you unplug something.  Then the volume stays the same no matter what's plugged in or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, of course, you can expand this idea as far as you want, in terms of channel count, features, etc.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/8Sbma.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one adds independent volume and mute functions, and it has three inputs instead of two.  Only one channel is shown here; you'll need two for stereo: one for left and one for right, and the corresponding controls should probably be ganged as one stereo part each.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might notice that the mixing resistors have changed from 10k to 2.2k.  The value really isn't all that critical; just stay above 1k and you're probably fine.  But the ratio between them and the volume controls *is* important to get a decent audio response out of a linear (cheap) knob or fader.  (also called &quot;B-taper&quot;, as opposed to &quot;A-taper&quot; for audio but is often approximated worse than what this trick does with parts that are cheaper anyway)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The inverted triangles are all connected together - it gets messy pretty quick to actually draw all of those connections, so just know that they're there.  Thus, the Grounds are all tied together as before." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23774" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7641" RevisionGUID="592743e3-cd5b-49a4-98b4-2114f275174a" CreationDate="2017-06-28T05:49:31.250" UserId="6407" Comment="Added the advanced version" Text="If you're somewhat decent with electronics, you can build a simple passive mixer with just the appropriate connectors and some 10k resistors from the parts section of RadioShack (or whoever sells them near you):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/Ceb63.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Grounds can all tie together directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The resistors prevent the inputs from being shorted to each other, so that none of them go into overload protection, and the technically weaker drive strength is still negligible for the line input that's going to receive this combined signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you end up with is the average of all the active signals (even if they're actively silent), rather than the sum, but the only real difference is the eventual volume of the final mix, which you can easily compensate for by turning it up slightly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What might be annoying about this is that if you unplug something, whatever's left will jump up a little bit in volume...unless you use normalled input jacks.  Normalled means they have switches built into them that are opened by the presence of a plug.  For example, a headphone jack might be normalled to some built-in speakers, but when you plug in the headphones, it opens that switch and the speakers stop.  In your case, you'd wire it to ground that input when the plug is removed, thus keeping it actively silent when you unplug something.  Then the volume stays the same no matter what's plugged in or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, of course, you can expand this idea as far as you want, in terms of channel count, features, etc.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/8Sbma.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one adds independent volume and mute functions, and it has three inputs instead of two.  Only one channel is shown here; you'll need two for stereo: one for left and one for right, and the corresponding controls should probably be ganged as one stereo part each.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might notice that the mixing resistors have changed from 10k to 2.2k.  The value really isn't all that critical - in fact, you can even make them unequal on purpose to pre-bias it one way or another - just stay above 1k for all of them and you're probably fine.  However, the ratio between them and the volume controls *is* important to get a decent audio response out of a linear (cheap) knob or fader.  (also called &quot;B-taper&quot;, as opposed to &quot;A-taper&quot; for audio but is often approximated worse than what this trick does with parts that are cheaper anyway)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The inverted triangles are all connected together - it gets messy pretty quick to actually draw all of those connections, so just know that they're there.  Thus, the Grounds are all tied together as before." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7644" RevisionGUID="fce39c2c-25df-451a-b82c-50d29908c678" CreationDate="2017-06-28T14:26:38.817" UserId="6492" Text="I need to find out whether a Sony VPCSA3M9E laptop with a AMD Radeon HD 6630M graphics card supports WQHD 2560x1440 resolution via HDMI or not, to be able to make a display purchasing decision. I have no way of connecting the laptop to a screen with more than 1080p resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [related manual][1] does not provide this information.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Display information in Windows][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connecting a 1920x1080 HDMI screen, I see that the maximum possible resolution is 1920x1080. However this appears to be influenced by the display. On a desktop computer whith a Nvidia GTX 750Ti, which I know supports 2048x1536 via VGA and 4096x2160 via HDMI, I can only see 1920x1080 as the maximum resolution, which is the maximum and native resolution of the connected screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [2011 Mac mini 2.7GHz dual-core Intel Core i7][3]'s description states:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt port with support for up to 2560-by-1600 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI port with support for up to 1920-by-1200 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Knowing that Apple is trying to push their preferred standard (Thunderbolt), this doesn't necessarily mean that the graphics card is not capable of WQHD via HDMI in a Sony laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From Wikipedia I learn that [HDMI 1.3 supports WQHD since 2006][4] and that [the Radeon HD 6630M graphics card was introduced in 2011][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The application GPU-Z does not seem to provide this information either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a way to find out what resolution is supported by the VPCSA3M9E's HD 6630M via HDMI?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.sony.com/release/VPCSA3_SB3_SC3_SE_series.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7lyWC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.apple.com/au/shop/product/G0M96X/A&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_comparison&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radeon_HD_6000_Series#Vancouver_.28HD_6xxxM.29_Series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7644" RevisionGUID="fce39c2c-25df-451a-b82c-50d29908c678" CreationDate="2017-06-28T14:26:38.817" UserId="6492" Text="AMD Radeon HD 6630M external display maximal resolution (will 2560x1440 work?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7644" RevisionGUID="fce39c2c-25df-451a-b82c-50d29908c678" CreationDate="2017-06-28T14:26:38.817" UserId="6492" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23785" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7645" RevisionGUID="37f5695d-8bcb-47f7-bf5b-c571ca091836" CreationDate="2017-06-28T17:53:21.100" UserId="6492" Text="Well, for this model I was able to find the URL of the long gone specs page via Wikipedia and the Wayback Machine did have a [copy][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HDMI 1.4a with Stereoscopic 3D Frame Packing Format, Deep Color, xvYCC wide gamut support, and high bit-rate audio&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Max resolution: **1920x1200**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://web.archive.org/web/20110106210715/http://www.amd.com/us/products/notebook/graphics/amd-radeon-6000m/amd-radeon-6700m-6600m/Pages/amd-radeon-6700m-6600m.aspx#2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23789" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7644" RevisionGUID="6cf95598-e2b3-4a1f-992b-00186217e1d9" CreationDate="2017-06-28T18:11:14.717" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23799" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="e3e28c7b-de66-4cab-b0f7-749783b1bc8e" CreationDate="2017-06-29T02:00:25.593" UserId="5341" Comment="Updated title" Text="I love my Raspberry Pi3B as a workstation, but what is the next step better for under $50?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="ecc761a3-b9c5-47aa-bc39-8b769106e65b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T04:23:26.817" UserId="6497" Text="The DVI KVMs I've been using for years have the property that they make the computer(s) that one is switched away from think that the monitor is still connected. This is, in general, quite useful; in particular, if one attaches a laptop to the KVM with the intent of using the laptop's display alongside the monitor connected to the KVM, windows will not reorient themselves when switching away from the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I can tell from researching DisplayPort KVMs, this property (which I have come to consider one of the main things that a KVM is supposed to do, rather than being a simple switch) seems at least uncommon and perhaps entirely absent from DisplayPort KVMs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why have we regressed in this fashion? Are there DisplayPort KVMs on the market that are better behaved? Am I better off abandoning desktop KVMs in favor of a monitor with enough inputs coupled with a USB peripheral switch?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="ecc761a3-b9c5-47aa-bc39-8b769106e65b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T04:23:26.817" UserId="6497" Text="Why are DisplayPort KVMs so awful?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="ecc761a3-b9c5-47aa-bc39-8b769106e65b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T04:23:26.817" UserId="6497" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7651" RevisionGUID="0cde637b-608b-407e-becc-221867ff75d2" CreationDate="2017-06-29T10:01:23.933" UserDisplayName="user6501" Text="I usually use math and engineering sections so sorry if I missed section.&#xA;&#xA;I decided that I want to buy new laptop. Let me say that I am not considering Macbook pro, it's just too expensive.I don't need extreme laptop for gaming(it would be nice if it could run something like FIFA, CS:GO) and the maximum price I am willing to pay is 800€. I don't really know specifications that much, I only look at the processor, and that is why I need your help. The laptop MUST be able to run Autocad, Matlab, Mathematica and other engineering softwares.&#xA;&#xA;I looked over some rankings on the internet and everybody seems to point out that Dell Xps 13 is the best. I can understand this if we consider one with settings including i7 processor. But why would one with i3 cost 800€ and there are many other laptops including Dell's that have i7 and other better specs that cost much less than that?&#xA;&#xA;What laptop should I buy? Also I care about the look of laptop a lot and I think Dell and Apple are unbeatable here.&#xA;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23808" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7651" RevisionGUID="0cde637b-608b-407e-becc-221867ff75d2" CreationDate="2017-06-29T10:01:23.933" UserDisplayName="user6501" Text="What laptop suits me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23809" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7651" RevisionGUID="0cde637b-608b-407e-becc-221867ff75d2" CreationDate="2017-06-29T10:01:23.933" UserDisplayName="user6501" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7653" RevisionGUID="dd530120-caf1-4bfc-90e1-3c99956b4c9b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T18:41:33.247" UserId="219" Text="I'm looking for whatever highest speed DDR3 2x8GB (2 DIMM slots/Dual Channel &amp; Dual-Sided (DS)) memory is still available somewhere from [this QVL for an ASUS Z97I-PLUS][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired Part No.'s in order of preference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2800**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3UH28001208G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2666**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U26661108G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U26661208G-4CI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - TEAM TLD38G2400HC11CBK&#xD;&#xA; - PANRAM PUD32400C118G2LSK&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U24001008G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2133**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U21330908G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA; - G.SKILL F3-2133C10D-16GAB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2000**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U20000908G-4C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer getting them from a mainstream retailer if at all possible like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Newegg&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon&#xD;&#xA; - Microcenter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But since I can't seem to find any of these anywhere I'm pretty open-ended about that. Definitely needs to still have fully intact manufacturer warranty wherever it's from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And to just be extra picky, I don't want any 'ugly' memory. No green circuit boards - should be properly heat-shielded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97I-PLUS/2_Dimm_H97I-PLUS_Z97I-PLUS_New_Memory_test_report.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23818" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7653" RevisionGUID="dd530120-caf1-4bfc-90e1-3c99956b4c9b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T18:41:33.247" UserId="219" Text="Cannot locate memory from QVL Z97I-PLUS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23819" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7653" RevisionGUID="dd530120-caf1-4bfc-90e1-3c99956b4c9b" CreationDate="2017-06-29T18:41:33.247" UserId="219" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23820" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7653" RevisionGUID="ce7c814e-5c2a-4556-926b-12971c4d602d" CreationDate="2017-06-29T18:52:21.847" UserId="219" Comment="edited title" Text="Cannot locate memory from QVL ASUS Z97I-PLUS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7653" RevisionGUID="516cc244-8840-4fb5-afb9-ea7bdb2e8945" CreationDate="2017-06-29T19:20:14.290" UserId="219" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for whatever highest speed DDR3 2x8GB (2 DIMM slots/Dual Channel &amp; Dual-Sided (DS)) memory is still available somewhere from [this QVL for an ASUS Z97I-PLUS][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired Part No.'s in order of preference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2800**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3UH28001208G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2666**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U26661108G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U26661208G-4CI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2400**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - TEAM TLD38G2400HC11CBK&#xD;&#xA; - PANRAM PUD32400C118G2LSK&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U24001008G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2133**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U21330908G-4BZ1&#xD;&#xA; - G.SKILL F3-2133C10D-16GAB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2000**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AVEXIR AVD3U20000908G-4C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Etc Etc...*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer getting them from a mainstream retailer if at all possible like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Newegg&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon&#xD;&#xA; - Microcenter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But since I can't seem to find any of these anywhere I'm pretty open-ended about that. Definitely needs to still have fully intact manufacturer warranty wherever it's from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And to just be extra picky, I don't want any 'ugly' memory. No green circuit boards - should be properly heat-shielded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97I-PLUS/2_Dimm_H97I-PLUS_Z97I-PLUS_New_Memory_test_report.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23826" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="cadb6aff-2a52-4624-9706-023b40d660cd" CreationDate="2017-06-29T19:52:38.357" UserId="60" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23827" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6997" RevisionGUID="789e58e3-7a10-4f02-867c-671d61de0c9d" CreationDate="2017-06-29T21:21:20.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="dfeb05f4-7ee4-4cdf-ac51-6fe44cef0118" CreationDate="2017-06-29T23:17:33.123" UserId="6497" Comment="deleted 40 characters in body" Text="The DVI KVMs I've been using for years have the property that they make the computer(s) that one is switched away from think that the monitor is still connected. This is, in general, quite useful; in particular, if one attaches a laptop to the KVM with the intent of using the laptop's display alongside the monitor connected to the KVM, windows will not reorient themselves when switching away from the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I can tell from researching DisplayPort KVMs, this property (which I have come to consider one of the main things that a KVM is supposed to do, rather than being a simple switch) seems at least uncommon and perhaps entirely absent from DisplayPort KVMs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something about DisplayPort as a connectivity standard that has invited this regression? Are there DisplayPort KVMs on the market that will emulate the presence of a monitor?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23829" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="7649" RevisionGUID="13b9e630-4721-4afd-ada8-e9c98e629bc2" CreationDate="2017-06-30T02:50:44.083" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23832" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6540" RevisionGUID="4e7dfc4e-beae-4a4d-9e51-1f4c69186f26" CreationDate="2017-06-30T07:27:58.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23833" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="fd95b034-37fb-49c4-800c-c4184e2ae0db" CreationDate="2017-06-30T10:28:12.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23837" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7656" RevisionGUID="010f98a9-3025-4828-9edc-74e6151856d3" CreationDate="2017-06-30T12:54:34.267" UserId="5001" Text="While I could not find the ability specific to the wifi network for the RT-AC3200 that @gabygg4 recommended.  I was able to determine that you can do this using [adaptive qos](https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1013333) on this router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact on most of the RT series routers you can do this with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going this route will be a little more cumbersome if you have a client that needs to test on two separate bandwidths back to back.  To simplify that process you could simply set up some .reg files to change the mac address on the computer with a double click." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23838" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7567" RevisionGUID="2203d447-eab7-4396-9eb5-c46250e00ebc" CreationDate="2017-06-30T12:57:38.380" UserId="6402" Comment="58" />
  <row Id="23840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7657" RevisionGUID="5378aa63-8f95-4828-b82d-a62ca5023a20" CreationDate="2017-06-30T16:22:53.920" UserId="6510" Text="Is there a site to get quotations while building a server with hardware component features and not selecting the hardware component itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the simplest motherboard with an i7 processor, one RAM slot for 16gb, 10G RDMA NIC, 1 SATA port, a small NVME and power supply. No need for display ports, USB ports , KVM ports, multimedia ports etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23841" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7657" RevisionGUID="5378aa63-8f95-4828-b82d-a62ca5023a20" CreationDate="2017-06-30T16:22:53.920" UserId="6510" Text="Can one get hardware quotations by hardware features online?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23842" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7657" RevisionGUID="5378aa63-8f95-4828-b82d-a62ca5023a20" CreationDate="2017-06-30T16:22:53.920" UserId="6510" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7658" RevisionGUID="9b129bc8-7578-42af-8c55-bd61bec1878a" CreationDate="2017-06-30T16:28:53.873" UserId="5001" Text="[Avexir 2400 @ Altex](https://www.altex.com/AVEXIR-Blitz-11-Series-16GB-2-x-8GB-DDR3-2400MHz-DIMM-Kit-Red-w-White-LED-BLITZ16GB-2400R-P156539.aspx) Altex is only located in Texas but they are super reputable.  I have been using them for over a decade.  You can actually get them on the phone too.  No waiting until Christmas for NewEgg to answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[G.SKILL F3-2133C10D-16GAB @ Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231659&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Memory+%28Desktop+Memory%29-_-N82E16820231659&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw7dfKBRCdkKrvmfKtyeoBEiQAch0egYkXhT-64368N4iIXH83V9EtiFzngtMPDzdXiecSaFoaAt9c8P8HAQ&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23844" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7659" RevisionGUID="bd62da27-fd73-43d5-84a1-ffc342fb99df" CreationDate="2017-06-30T19:09:49.973" UserId="6511" Text="After the death of my 7.1 surround system blue ray box, I am trying to find a device that does basically this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can be connected to the existing speakers from my 7.1 system&#xD;&#xA;- Can be connected to a pc/mac using USB&#xD;&#xA;- Has a line in good enough for being used as input for electric guitar or mic&#xD;&#xA;- Can be used from a Nvidia Shield TV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably can't get them all, but I am trying to look at options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did check online and I did find 3 items; each with pros and cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- StarTech.com 7.1 USB Audio Adapter External Sound Card: this looks cool, since it has the plugs for the 7.1 speakers; and it is USB; also has the SPDIF connection, which can be used with the shield TV (using the usb to SPDIF adapter). The cons is that it doesn't look much of a good item, considering that it cost just 40 dollars. I am concerned about quality and damages that it may cause to the devices connected to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Behringer Xenyx Q502USB: Perfect as mixer, has many input and it is USB ready so it will work on anything that has usb. The cons is that it is big, bulky and has no way to pilot 7.1 speakers. Also it is pretty cheap and lack the features of a real external audio card, with DAC and all extras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sound Blaster X G5: This is a proper external sound card with lots of power, due to the dedicated CPU for effects and audio processing. Basically replace the internal sound card, and is able to connect both headphone and line in for a mic and guitar, which is perfect for music studio usage. The cons is that you can't connect speakers to it, since it has only one output, and the 7.1 system is made for headphones, so it is a virtual dolby system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used to have a SB Audigy; which was an awesome card, although it was on PCI and my motherboard does not even have that anymore. Lovely piece of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you suggest? My Shield TV is in my living room, with the speakers already set; while my PC is in my office. I was hoping to get one device to move in either room, depending if I want to watch TV on the Shield with the 7.1 system, or work in my office/sound studio; but I think I will need 2 different devices. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23845" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7659" RevisionGUID="bd62da27-fd73-43d5-84a1-ffc342fb99df" CreationDate="2017-06-30T19:09:49.973" UserId="6511" Text="External sound card/mixer that act as 7.1 surround system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23846" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7659" RevisionGUID="bd62da27-fd73-43d5-84a1-ffc342fb99df" CreationDate="2017-06-30T19:09:49.973" UserId="6511" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23849" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7660" RevisionGUID="e63cde26-99fd-436b-b4f9-c0a04ffb08bd" CreationDate="2017-07-01T12:41:31.797" UserId="6513" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm an illustrator and I'm in the market for a tablet or laptop with an active digitizer stylus (Wacom, N-Trig) but that can also run Ubuntu or Linux. I'd like to start to move away from iOs and Windows. What machines run Ubuntu and Linux but also have pen pressure sensitivity?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks so much! Have a great day!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Jonathan&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23850" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7660" RevisionGUID="e63cde26-99fd-436b-b4f9-c0a04ffb08bd" CreationDate="2017-07-01T12:41:31.797" UserId="6513" Text="Ubuntu/Linux tablet or laptop that can support Active Digitizer Pen Pressure Input?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23851" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7660" RevisionGUID="e63cde26-99fd-436b-b4f9-c0a04ffb08bd" CreationDate="2017-07-01T12:41:31.797" UserId="6513" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7662" RevisionGUID="4862fa3a-ec64-43db-a341-3fdc0e5a38da" CreationDate="2017-07-01T18:31:36.363" UserId="4136" Text="I think your budget is relatively low considering you will run computationally intensive tasks on it. So I would ignore battery life or portability constraints and just buy whatever gives you the most power both in terms of CPU and GPU for your money. This is also likely the reason you are seeing &quot;strange&quot; prices, for example those Microsoft Surfaces thingies often aren't powerful at all, but they are small, light and have long battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where I study there is a possibility to buy high-end laptops at a discount biannually, make sure you check out whether your uni has something like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a random example a Lenovo Legion Y520 seems to be roughly in your budget depending on the exact model. It has a i7-7700HQ, GTX 1050 and up to 16GB of RAM. No 'business'/'workstation' quality, battery won't last too long, but probably as much power as you can get for that kind of money. There are similar offers from other manufacturers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23862" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7657" RevisionGUID="bfd7cd7c-411d-480e-952b-6d7eb78edb02" CreationDate="2017-07-01T20:07:54.800" UserId="57" Comment="More on Topic" Text="I'm looking for the simplest motherboard with an i7 processor, one RAM slot for 16gb, 10G RDMA NIC, 1 SATA port, a small NVME and power supply. No need for display ports, USB ports , KVM ports, multimedia ports etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7664" RevisionGUID="f6df6498-7991-4076-ac81-4e60715694e1" CreationDate="2017-07-01T21:55:47.283" UserId="6435" Text="I am currently using the stock cooler for the i3-7100 and should have heeded the warnings that it is incredibly loud (it is seriously unbearable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for the quietest cooler I can find. Not overclocking this and it's the lowest specced Kaby Lake i3 there is. My only limitation is the cooler height must not exceed 56mm." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23865" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7664" RevisionGUID="f6df6498-7991-4076-ac81-4e60715694e1" CreationDate="2017-07-01T21:55:47.283" UserId="6435" Text="Silent cooler recommendation for the i3-7100?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23866" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7664" RevisionGUID="f6df6498-7991-4076-ac81-4e60715694e1" CreationDate="2017-07-01T21:55:47.283" UserId="6435" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23874" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="6cc7aca8-9f55-4655-8b3f-e549423ec07c" CreationDate="2017-07-02T14:14:15.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23875" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="9c0cebfd-5ae1-4988-8895-bb0df758a7d4" CreationDate="2017-07-02T15:14:13.980" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7543" RevisionGUID="9715b1e3-6606-4807-a106-6879b70570d6" CreationDate="2017-07-02T17:20:32.537" UserId="1921" Comment="added pinout" Text="Caution: 12@ 300w is 25A.  You need 4 gauge wire to handle that kind of load.  **All the ones that are 300w or more require 16v-20v.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  **You would need to combine 2 to get a full 300w all the time.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You will probably need 2 of these devices to provide the correct number of amps to the PCI-E device.  Also 1 might overheat under load**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will need a molex Y cable simple to connect to the add2psu unit so PSU 1 turns PSU-2 on automatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is 1 option: (250w) peak (300w)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&amp;category=981&#xD;&#xA;When operating at constant 160 watts or more forced ventilation might be required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PSU chart][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![250w option][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This picture seems to show 2 sata and 1 molex.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![molex to 6pin][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423173&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Internal+Power+Cables-_-N82E16812423173&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_B-pm9o4gStz3wqfXlWnmmOzv0yjspZ5CSOi-aS7ptEBoChGbw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.add2psu.com/&#xD;&#xA;[![Turn 2nd PSU on][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also some Y adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pinouts][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0x1qH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIbWs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffJ2g.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuXF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6p75I.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23877" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7352" RevisionGUID="a21bdc3b-88b2-43c2-b5a5-61f4ff46f656" CreationDate="2017-07-02T19:14:16.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7667" RevisionGUID="d97dd94e-01fd-4702-863e-ee7c5cd88617" CreationDate="2017-07-02T21:40:45.923" UserId="6525" Text="I've bought a succession of used high end Dell systems.  My current laptop is a Dell Precision M6500 with a Core i7-920XM processor, 16 GB RAM, mSATA boot/swap/home, 1TB and 2TB drives in the internal bays, and I've replaced the DVD with a caddy for a second 2TB drive.  1920x1200 screen, Radeon HD5870.  It will take up to 32GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like these systems because they're very easy to maintain and upgrade.  I'm rough on keyboards, so I've replaced that a few times, and I've replaced the battery.  I've had it since 2011, and it was used and a generation behind at the time.  Just maintain it; the most important thing is to blow out the fans with a can of compressed air every now and then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These machines are cheap and plentiful on eBay, going for about $400 with an i7-920XM or i7-940XM processor.  It's easy to find parts for these robustly-constructed systems.  I've been very happy with it.  I run exclusively Linux (openSUSE) on it, and everything works fine.  They actually offer Precision laptops with Linux preloaded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your old laptop weighed 4.8 kg (10.6 lb), you'll find the Precision series to be light and fluffy.  It has a plain silver exterior with an understated Dell logo, except for the &quot;Covet&quot; version which is orange (and functionally is no different).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue is that the processor is slow by contemporary standards.  It has a Passmark rating a little under 4000, vs. some of the newer i7 mobile chips that are up around 10000 or even 11000 (I've found that for what I do, which is a lot of photography, software development, and some video, Passmark is an accurate reflection of relative performance to expect, compared against a Core 2 Duo E8400 and i7-5820K).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My other observation from the Passmark numbers is that there was a big performnace jump from the top-end first generation to second generation i7 processors (the top second generation is around 7000), a significant jump to the third generation (around 9000, IIRC) and smaller improvements after that (the top end fourth generation is around 10000; the 5th and 6th generation no higher, and you have to go to a mobile Xeon to get any meaningful improvement, and that's only about 10%).  Dell has released newer Precision &quot;mobile workstations&quot;; the 6600 is based on second generation, the 6700 on third, the 6800 on fourth, 7710 on 6th, and 7720 on 7th generation processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big downside (to me) of the newer ones is that they're full HD (1920x1080) rather than WUXGA (1920x1200); that difference is quite significant.  This is going to form the basis of a question I will be asking that's closely related to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on all of this, my recommendation to you would be to purchase a used Dell M6800 on eBay with your choice of processor and screen.  It's easy to upgrade memory (to at least 32GB; I'm not sure about 64GB) and storage with just a screwdriver, and memory and 2TB disks are cheap.  The processor is more difficult.  So if you find a good deal with a top of the line chip (i7-4980HQ, i7-4960HQ, or i7-4940MX) and the screen you want, I'd go for that first and worry about memory and storage later.  They offer these systems with lower-end i7 and i5 chips, so check carefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If a 17&quot; screen is too big, you can go with the M4800, which is 15&quot; but otherwise similar (I don't know offhand whether it has two drive bays).  They also offer a 3200x1800 display for the M4800, but nothing higher than 1920x1080 for the 17&quot;!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23888" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7670" RevisionGUID="90320a93-f6bb-418d-abad-8294e3f134dc" CreationDate="2017-07-03T05:43:43.847" UserId="6523" Text="Rechargeable batteries have existed for quite some time, and Bluetooth peripherals have had time to mature as well. Does a Bluetooth mouse exist that draws its power from a AA battery, but can also recharge that battery inside of it, via a Micro USB port or similar?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, which engineering challenges prevent such a product? If these products do exist, but cost an exorbitant amount, why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23889" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7670" RevisionGUID="90320a93-f6bb-418d-abad-8294e3f134dc" CreationDate="2017-07-03T05:43:43.847" UserId="6523" Text="Bluetooth Rechargeable Mouse that uses AA batteries" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23890" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7670" RevisionGUID="90320a93-f6bb-418d-abad-8294e3f134dc" CreationDate="2017-07-03T05:43:43.847" UserId="6523" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7671" RevisionGUID="b05d6f9a-ffdd-47d7-8a29-cdeb1d7d2fd5" CreationDate="2017-07-03T11:57:25.583" UserId="6527" Text="I'm looking into buying (or possibly building) a micro pc for streaming YouTube, Netflix etc. What specs would you recommend for the machine if it's gong to be plugged into a 50-inch 4k display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to spend around £150-200 on the machine (O/S Not neccessary).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(also, would the Intel ComputeStick be a good machine for this purpose? See specs below.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel STK1AW32SC Compute Stick (Black) - (Intel Atom x5-Z8300 1.44 GHz, 2 GB RAM, 32 GB eMMC, Intel HD Graphics, Windows 10)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23893" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7671" RevisionGUID="b05d6f9a-ffdd-47d7-8a29-cdeb1d7d2fd5" CreationDate="2017-07-03T11:57:25.583" UserId="6527" Text="Micro PC for Streaming Content" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23894" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7671" RevisionGUID="b05d6f9a-ffdd-47d7-8a29-cdeb1d7d2fd5" CreationDate="2017-07-03T11:57:25.583" UserId="6527" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23898" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7657" RevisionGUID="0cb3eefc-b493-456a-b5c3-2c00f091d1a4" CreationDate="2017-07-03T13:32:41.943" UserId="6510" Comment="explaination" Text="I'm looking for the simplest motherboard with an i7 processor, one RAM slot for 16gb, 10G RDMA NIC, 1 SATA port, a small NVME and power supply. No need for display ports, USB ports , KVM ports, multimedia ports etc. I'm looking for the cheapest option to build a 2-node Hyper converged Hyper-V Cluster on Nano Server 2016 with storage space direct." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7673" RevisionGUID="a7b0a17f-a50c-4411-87cf-a68c19ca4f69" CreationDate="2017-07-03T14:02:32.990" UserId="5001" Text="While I did not do much research on this because you did not have any real requirements other than replaceable batter and bluetooth.  I have found this mouse on [Amazon Mouse](https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Notebook-Mouse-White/dp/B001126PDM).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the reviews the batteries are replaceable and the mouse is rechargeable.  I am not sure if it requires AA or AAA but should work for your purposes.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23900" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="28547a6b-a7e4-4041-9aa0-9a91be820fd3" CreationDate="2017-07-03T14:32:20.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7674" RevisionGUID="3e9c2ffc-348c-4fe3-a7ef-e6ca76454af9" CreationDate="2017-07-04T00:50:30.263" UserId="6525" Text="Processor and memory are certainly very important for you, no two ways about it.  My own experience with a grand sample size of 3 very diverse CPUs (Core 2 Duo E8400, Core i7-920XM, Core i7-5820K) is that the PassMark numbers give a good relative guide to performance on the kinds of software development and photography work that's important to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At least based on the PassMark numbers, there hasn't been a great deal of improvement per-core since the 4th generation, including both laptop and desktop.  The top mobile CPUs (45W) all top out around 10,000 since then; some of the Xeon 6th and 7th generation CPUs are a bit faster (up to about 11,000).  You may be able to get more bang for your euro with a high end used laptop, such as a Dell Precision M4800 with a top-end CPU (I should note that all of my laptops, since 2001, have been used high-end Dells).  This is built to a much higher standard of quality than their (or anyone's) consumer-grade system.  I've had mine (which I bought used) since 2011; other than the CPU being poky by contemporary standards, I have no complaints.  I've upgraded quite a few things and replaced the keyboard multiple times (I'm rather rough on that).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you go that route, do pay very close attention to the components used.  There are many available configurations, with a wide range of processors; don't get one, for instance, with an i5 or lower-end i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, you haven't given a lot to go on as far as storage, screen, and such; the machine I mentioned does offer multiple screen options, and it's an easy matter to upgrade storage and memory." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23908" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="082cab74-f91b-4dbf-93f5-4c113ee7d4d2" CreationDate="2017-07-04T11:21:54.890" UserId="6536" Text="I have TS140 server running Ubuntu and several vm's for apps, web, MySQL.  Looking to upgrade CPU from stock i3-4150.   It is LGA 1150 socket.  I have the newer motherboard.  &#xA;&#xA;Is e3-1230v3, or e3-1240v3 or e3-1276 better suited for server and if so, is there significant difference?&#xA;&#xA;If I upgrade to e3-1240 (doesn't have gpu) will I still be able to run ubuntu desktop in the vm's ?   &#xA;&#xA;Is there a broadwell that would work?&#xA;&#xA;Looking to spend ~ $300 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23909" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="082cab74-f91b-4dbf-93f5-4c113ee7d4d2" CreationDate="2017-07-04T11:21:54.890" UserId="6536" Text="T140 Lenovo ThinkServer i3-4150 CPU upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23910" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="082cab74-f91b-4dbf-93f5-4c113ee7d4d2" CreationDate="2017-07-04T11:21:54.890" UserId="6536" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23911" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="3767e8eb-eee3-40e0-9dbc-49eda3af50b5" CreationDate="2017-07-04T11:39:37.510" UserId="6536" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I have TS140 server running Ubuntu and several vm's for apps, web, MySQL.  Looking to upgrade CPU from stock i3-4150.   It is LGA 1150 socket.  I have the newer motherboard.  &#xA;&#xA;Is e3-1230v3, or e3-1240v3 or e3-1276 better suited for server and if so, is there significant difference?&#xA;&#xA;If I upgrade to e3-1240 (doesn't have gpu) will I still be able to run ubuntu desktop in the vm's ?   &#xA;&#xA;Is there a broadwell that would work?  e3-1285v4?&#xA;&#xA;Looking to spend ~ $300 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="a1ecd8f6-a765-4194-91d6-55f5e3378135" CreationDate="2017-07-04T13:28:09.003" UserId="6536" Comment="added other cpu i am considering" Text="I have TS140 server running Ubuntu and several vm's for apps, web, MySQL.  Looking to upgrade CPU from stock i3-4150.   It is LGA 1150 (H3) socket.  I have the newer motherboard.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is e3-1230v3, e3-1226v3, e3-1240v3 or e3-1276v3 better suited for server and if so, are there significant differences?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade to e3-1240v3 (doesn't have gpu) will I still be able to run ubuntu desktop in the vm's ?   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a broadwell that would work in the LGA 1150 (H3)?  e3-1285v4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking to spend ~ $300 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23919" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="a1ecd8f6-a765-4194-91d6-55f5e3378135" CreationDate="2017-07-04T13:28:09.003" UserId="6536" Comment="added other cpu i am considering" Text="T140 Lenovo ThinkServer i3-4150 CPU upgrade LGA 1150 i3-4150 to e3-1276v3 or e3-1226v3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23920" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="3db7d315-ac06-4671-b4e3-bf8e081719b9" CreationDate="2017-07-04T16:40:18.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7680" RevisionGUID="ad849cd1-4ce9-476d-95c4-728b56e02b39" CreationDate="2017-07-04T17:21:07.507" UserId="6536" Text="The e3-1276v3 processor is significantly faster.  Here is link to openbenchmark of the i3-4130v3 and e3-1276v3 processors running pts/multicore benchmark http://openbenchmarking.org/result/1707040-KH-1707042KH29 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23926" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7681" RevisionGUID="aedd9810-f3ed-4e32-ac9f-6cd338cc5457" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:24:42.183" UserId="4759" Text="I am looking to play some games on my MacBook Pro and would like to add an external GPU to it. Searching around I found that a Thunderbolt to PCIe enclosure works fine for that purpose, however all the ones I found seem extremely expensive for what is essentially a power brick, connectors and an aluminium box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced option ? I'd hate to put more money into the enclosure than the GPU itself." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23927" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7681" RevisionGUID="aedd9810-f3ed-4e32-ac9f-6cd338cc5457" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:24:42.183" UserId="4759" Text="A reasonably-priced Thunderbolt PCIe enclosure" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23928" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7681" RevisionGUID="aedd9810-f3ed-4e32-ac9f-6cd338cc5457" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:24:42.183" UserId="4759" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7682" RevisionGUID="40b08260-f50e-4f86-889a-6e6515edaab5" CreationDate="2017-07-05T02:00:06.303" UserId="6543" Text="I want to buy Intel Atom C2550 but could not find it online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;anyone knows where I can buy one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7682" RevisionGUID="40b08260-f50e-4f86-889a-6e6515edaab5" CreationDate="2017-07-05T02:00:06.303" UserId="6543" Text="Where can I buy Intel Atom processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7682" RevisionGUID="40b08260-f50e-4f86-889a-6e6515edaab5" CreationDate="2017-07-05T02:00:06.303" UserId="6543" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7683" RevisionGUID="2c8f4ffb-f34c-40d2-b4c0-3fb1bc58b705" CreationDate="2017-07-05T05:09:34.740" UserId="3751" Text="I am looking for a wireless mouse with a rechargable battery in the range of ~50$. So far most of the mouses that I have seen have normal batteries as [this one][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the mouse primarily to use it with my laptop when I travel, so sligthly smaller mouses would have preference over bulkier ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Bluetooth-Mobile-Mouse-PN7-00021/dp/B00H9862GM?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAJ4AK2H6SGGIY7SXQ&amp;tag=hawk-future-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B00H9862GM&amp;ascsubtag=trd-438602677-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23936" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7683" RevisionGUID="2c8f4ffb-f34c-40d2-b4c0-3fb1bc58b705" CreationDate="2017-07-05T05:09:34.740" UserId="3751" Text="Wireless mouse with rechargable battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23937" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7683" RevisionGUID="2c8f4ffb-f34c-40d2-b4c0-3fb1bc58b705" CreationDate="2017-07-05T05:09:34.740" UserId="3751" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23940" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7684" RevisionGUID="40960a8f-02df-40f4-88b1-35c21c09b8f5" CreationDate="2017-07-05T13:11:16.640" UserId="3986" Text="[Logitech MX Everywhere 2](https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Anywhere-Wireless-Mobile-Mouse/dp/B00Y09IWGQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499259945&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mx+everywhere+2) seems a good option (when in sale). You can have 3 pc's paired (not at the same time) via bluethooth or use a dongle. It tracks at lot of different surfaces with a decent battery life." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23951" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7676" RevisionGUID="5862b04a-5bbe-4e53-878a-14f4b5b9e8df" CreationDate="2017-07-05T16:41:15.893" UserId="6536" Comment="edited title" Text="TS140 Lenovo ThinkServer i3-4150 CPU upgrade LGA 1150 i3-4150 to e3-1276v3 or e3-1226v3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23952" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7680" RevisionGUID="fbd77e6c-af68-405c-b961-6ff5bb4c6cc7" CreationDate="2017-07-05T16:42:07.977" UserId="6536" Comment="edited body" Text="The e3-1276v3 processor is significantly faster.  Here is link to openbenchmark of the i3-4150v3 and e3-1276v3 processors running pts/multicore benchmark http://openbenchmarking.org/result/1707040-KH-1707042KH29 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7689" RevisionGUID="77d62dca-df78-4f96-ab4f-936eac0f3f3b" CreationDate="2017-07-05T20:21:51.373" UserId="241" Text="The Atom series of CPUs isn't available in socketed form.  Instead, the CPUs are designed to be soldered onto a mainboard, with the combined CPU/board sold to end users or built into a finished product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best way to get a C2550 is to decide if you'd rather have a CPU/mainboard combo or a pre-built computer, and pick something that best meets your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23970" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="108dce1f-57c3-40ce-b571-c1cd3d27af57" CreationDate="2017-07-05T21:00:55.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23973" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="36cc1919-7bd9-4ef4-b359-38026ac8609c" CreationDate="2017-07-06T06:09:52.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="23974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7691" RevisionGUID="b605ae69-d500-4575-b14d-2eea4fc6c539" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:35:08.747" UserId="6554" Text="I am a .NET developer and need to work with Visual Studio 2015, SQL server etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am ready to spend INR 6000 K(100 US $).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Details below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop : Asus X 553 MA &#xD;&#xA;Processor : Pentium® Quad-Core N3540 2.16 GHz ~ 2.66 GHz Processor&#xD;&#xA;RAM: DDR3 1600 MHz SDRAM, 2 GB &#xD;&#xA;Graphics: Integrated Intel® HD Graphics (Pentium &amp; Celeron)&#xD;&#xA;2.5&quot; SATA&#xD;&#xA; - 500GB HDD 5400 RPM &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/in/Laptops/X553MA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23975" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7691" RevisionGUID="b605ae69-d500-4575-b14d-2eea4fc6c539" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:35:08.747" UserId="6554" Text="How can I upgrade my Laptop Asus X553 MA Pentium Quad-Core N3540 2.16 GHz ~ 2.66 GHz Processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23976" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7691" RevisionGUID="b605ae69-d500-4575-b14d-2eea4fc6c539" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:35:08.747" UserId="6554" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7692" RevisionGUID="f2accd09-42f0-45bb-910b-5d331fc0a2cd" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:48:09.957" UserId="6553" Text="We are in search for a business document scanner with following scan options, all done over a ADF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplex: front side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Duplex: front and back side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Simplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Simplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Duplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF (One PDF with front and back side).&#xD;&#xA; 4. Duplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We talked with a supplier of ours and got a Brother ADS-2800W from him, but its incapable of mode nr 3.&#xD;&#xA;After some research and getting back with the Brother Support, none of Brothers Scanner is apparently capable of nr 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course we also tried the usual ways (google, product comparison websites and all those &quot;Best Scanners of &gt;&gt;insert year here&lt;&lt;&quot;-Reviews) but none of those gave the information needed or didnt comply with at least one criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ADF&#xD;&#xA; - A4 sheet size&#xD;&#xA; - Modes listed above&#xD;&#xA; - Desktop size&#xD;&#xA; - WLAN / LAN&#xD;&#xA; - Save to SMB Network Share&#xD;&#xA; - Price of 600€ / $ top&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any kind of help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23978" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7692" RevisionGUID="f2accd09-42f0-45bb-910b-5d331fc0a2cd" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:48:09.957" UserId="6553" Text="Document Scanner with specific modes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23979" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7692" RevisionGUID="f2accd09-42f0-45bb-910b-5d331fc0a2cd" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:48:09.957" UserId="6553" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7693" RevisionGUID="65e3eb81-40c0-47b7-a3cb-57876c8c5182" CreationDate="2017-07-06T14:35:43.123" UserId="6475" Text="My office recently grabbed an HP ScanJet 3000 S3. It's a bit above your price range (closer to $800-900), but I've been in charge of developing our scan process and I can tell you with confidence that it does everything you listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We specifically got it to digitize old paper records, and it is set up at a small stand-alone desk with a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ADF = Included&#xD;&#xA;- A4 sheet size = Included, also has other custom paper sizes. Smaller sheets can sometimes have trouble being grabbed by the feed mechanism, but it's functional.&#xD;&#xA;- Modes listed above = All included.&#xD;&#xA;- Desktop size = Fits on a pretty tiny desk with plenty of room to work. Very space efficient. &#xD;&#xA;- WLAN / LAN = This feature exists but you have to buy a $40 wireless adapter that is made special just for this unit, and you can only scan to mobile devices using this method. I know don't even get me started right now, but this thing works and finding a wireless workaround solution was extremely simple since we work from a server platform. We returned the stupid $40 USB dongle.&#xD;&#xA;- Save to SMB Network Share = Included.&#xD;&#xA;- Price of 600€ / $ top = Nope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's far from a perfect solution and you usually won't find me recommending products that don't fit the user's question, but we had a particularly long and arduous experience trying to find something that would fit our needs. I see similar conditions in your post. We had to make a few compromises, but at the end of the day we needed something and this little headache of a scanner made our project possible. Perhaps it can do the same for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can definitely tell you that unless you're looking for something used, duplex auto-document feed scanners that can handle even a 50 page count stack at a time don't exist for under $600. Well, they may exist, but there wasn't anything I found that was suitable and trustworthy enough for business use.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23981" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7694" RevisionGUID="c2f7e82e-7cdf-43cd-8d55-e63f8529afc2" CreationDate="2017-07-06T20:50:35.813" UserId="6556" Text="Without a doubt, investing in a Solid-State hard drive is the best option to extend the life and performance of your laptop. With $100 to play with, you'll be able to afford an SSD with around 240GB of storage which should be plenty of space to install your software/OS and store your files that you work on most often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend you have a professional do the installation and Operating system/data migration for you if your technical proficiency does not " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23982" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7691" RevisionGUID="8d0a99b7-a3dd-4949-8603-5113f5108954" CreationDate="2017-07-07T00:46:09.010" UserId="57" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="23983" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="8bb89e4f-0d42-4a78-a7fd-084842c2382d" CreationDate="2017-07-07T09:20:02.270" UserId="5341" Comment="Reworded the title and question, and provided links." Text="I have been using a [4-core Raspberry Pi 3B][1] ($34) as a workstation, connected to an HDMI monitor and keyboard and mouse.  That leaves one last USB port for a good WiFi adapter.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For software, I downloaded the New Out Of the Box ([NOOBS][2]) package that installs the Raspian operating system.  It is very much like Ubuntu.  I used [Win32DiskImager][3] to burn it to a [32 GB SD card][4] ($17) for the boot device.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can alternatively buy [NOOBS software preloaded on a boot card][5] for about $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have it installed in a [nice little case with a fan][6] ($9)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That totals just over $60.  I already had the monitor, keyboard, mouse and WiFi adapter with an antenna.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works well as a workstation.  I like it a lot.  I can browse the web and install programs to do a variety of things.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the catch is that with only 1 GB RAM it is a bit limited.  I also worry about the lifetime of using the SD card as primary storage.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One good thing I do is periodically I use Win32DiskImager to save an image onto my laptop hard drive so if the card fails I can always restore the image into a new one.  But it feels like I am living on borrowed time using Flash memory constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, without spending a whole lot, what would be the best next step up?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raspberry-PI-3-Model-B-A1-2GHz-64-bit-quad-core-ARMv8-CPU-1GB-RAM/263030031820&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B007BJHEWK&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-sd-card-noobs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Premium-ABS-Case-with-Fan-for-Raspberry-Pi-3-2-Model-B-Pi-Model-B/231974597486" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23984" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="8bb89e4f-0d42-4a78-a7fd-084842c2382d" CreationDate="2017-07-07T09:20:02.270" UserId="5341" Comment="Reworded the title and question, and provided links." Text="What is a good inexpensive Linux computer to replace my RPi3B workstation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23985" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="8bb89e4f-0d42-4a78-a7fd-084842c2382d" CreationDate="2017-07-07T09:20:02.270" UserId="5341" Comment="Reworded the title and question, and provided links." Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23986" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="170ef5f5-b0f1-49d8-93ee-c8d08eb8e3c1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T09:36:48.440" UserId="5341" Comment="Updated the answer." Text="I found the best possible system right on eBay, and the price is right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs Ubuntu 16.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with Windows Vista.  When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I used the power button to stop it then make a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to Ubuntu 14.04, which then helpfully offered to upgrade itself to 16.04 LTS (lifetime service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  (Whatever)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  It barely breaks a sweat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It takes one command to clone the entire boot drive.  To be safe, I boot the Ubuntu 14.04 LiveCD and select &quot;Try it&quot; then when it starts up I press the Windows button on my keyboard and type in TERMINAL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inside terminal, you can verify your drive connections by using&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo fdisk -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine showed three drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sda (with partitions) - my primary drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdb (the target drive&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdc (The boot DVD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one command you use to clone the drives is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 160 HSS copies in 8000 seconds (just over two hours).  Hint:  Amazon is selling the same drive for $9.98 - the best backup for a hard drive is another hard drive, especially when you can boot from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  I think Vista can use them both, but I didn't try that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the air it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used the same HDMI monitor.  I also see that decent 17 and 19 inch monitors are in the 30-40 price range on eBay if you need a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the first thing I did to it.  I added my little USB GPS unit.  It shows off the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;I AM ACTUALLY SHOCKED AND SURPRISED TO FIND A REAL COMPUTER LIKE THIS FOR THIS PRICE.  IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just ordered a second one because it is too good of a deal to pass up.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23987" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="94a6d93d-361b-4626-9977-38ddc512649b" CreationDate="2017-07-07T09:48:42.657" UserId="5341" Comment="Fleshing out the answer.  I love this thing and anybody who rally cares should see the nitty-gritty on thisi thing." Text="I found a truly amazing deal on eBay for exactly what I wanted.  I had no idea they were available.  Now I don't know how I ever got along without this.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please allow me to introduce:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs Ubuntu 16.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with Windows Vista.  When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I used the power button to stop it then make a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to Ubuntu 14.04, which then helpfully offered to upgrade itself to 16.04 LTS (lifetime service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  (Whatever)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  It barely breaks a sweat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It takes one command to clone the entire boot drive.  To be safe, I boot the Ubuntu 14.04 LiveCD and select &quot;Try it&quot; then when it starts up I press the Windows button on my keyboard and type in TERMINAL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inside terminal, you can verify your drive connections by using&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo fdisk -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine showed three drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sda (with partitions) - my primary drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdb (the target drive&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdc (The boot DVD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one command you use to clone the drives is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 160 HSS copies in 8000 seconds (just over two hours).  Hint:  Amazon is selling the same drive for $9.98 - the best backup for a hard drive is another hard drive, especially when you can boot from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  I think Vista can use them both, but I didn't try that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the air it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used the same HDMI monitor.  I also see that decent 17 and 19 inch monitors are in the 30-40 price range on eBay if you need a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the first thing I did to it.  I added my little USB GPS unit.  It shows off the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;I AM ACTUALLY SHOCKED AND SURPRISED TO FIND A REAL COMPUTER LIKE THIS FOR THIS PRICE.  IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;eBay has a decent deal on 4GB of RAM (on two stick) - so not I have 6GB RAM.  The thing never used the swap file at all.  (You can see that with the htop command)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--&gt; I just ordered a second one because it is too good of a deal to pass up.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="c9332125-7596-44b3-83b7-dae4b1646e66" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:02:13.280" UserId="5341" Comment="Fleshing out the answer.  I love this thing and anybody who rally cares should see the nitty-gritty on thisi thing." Text="I found a truly amazing deal on eBay for exactly what I wanted.  I had no idea they were available.  Now I don't know how I ever got along without this.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please allow me to introduce:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs Ubuntu 16.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with Windows Vista.  When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I used the power button to stop it then make a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to Ubuntu 14.04, which then helpfully offered to upgrade itself to 16.04 LTS (lifetime service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  (Whatever)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  It barely breaks a sweat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It takes just one command to clone the entire boot drive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be safe, I start up with the DVD (F10) to the Ubuntu 14.04 LiveCD and select &quot;Try it&quot; then when it gets loaded into RAM and presents the desktop I press the Windows button on my keyboard and type in TERMINAL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inside terminal, you can verify your drive connections by using&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo fdisk -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine showed three drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sda (with partitions) - my primary drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdb (the target drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdc (The boot DVD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The one command you use to clone the drives is this:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 160 HDD copies in 8000 seconds (just over two hours).  &#xD;&#xA;Hint:  Amazon is selling a WD [7200 RPM 160GB drive for $9.99][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I always say that the best backup for a hard drive is another hard&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drive, especially when you can boot from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  I think Vista can use them both, but I didn't try that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the air it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used the same HDMI monitor.  I also see that decent 17 and 19 inch monitors are in the 30-40 price range on eBay if you need a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the first thing I did to it.  I added my little USB GPS unit.  It shows off the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the GPS screens:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;I AM ACTUALLY SHOCKED AND SURPRISED TO FIND A REAL COMPUTER LIKE THIS FOR THIS PRICE.  IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. TOTAL OUTLAY WAS LESS THAT THE RPI3.  &#xD;&#xA;MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;eBay has a decent deal on 4GB of RAM (2x2GB sticks) - so now I have 6GB RAM.  The thing never uses the swap file at all.  (You can see that with the htop command)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**--&gt; I just ordered a second one because it is too good of a deal to pass up.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010X3AT4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23989" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7695" RevisionGUID="05435e30-6570-473b-9a2d-a9c86d5e90b1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:42:14.270" UserId="6558" Text="I'd like to try building my own NAS (raid1), but have failed finding the right board, the closest one has only 1x sata port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23990" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7695" RevisionGUID="05435e30-6570-473b-9a2d-a9c86d5e90b1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:42:14.270" UserId="6558" Text="Raspberry or clone with 2x sata port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23991" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7695" RevisionGUID="05435e30-6570-473b-9a2d-a9c86d5e90b1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:42:14.270" UserId="6558" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23992" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="dad959ee-63e5-4a80-b410-6883b1273610" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:50:49.493" UserId="5341" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body" Text="I found a truly amazing deal on eBay for exactly what I wanted.  I had no idea they were available.  Now I don't know how I ever got along without this.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs Ubuntu 16.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with Windows Vista.  When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I used the power button to stop it then make a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to Ubuntu 14.04, which then helpfully offered to upgrade itself to 16.04 LTS (lifetime service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  (Whatever)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  It barely breaks a sweat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It takes just one command to clone the entire boot drive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be safe, I start up with the DVD (F10) to the Ubuntu 14.04 LiveCD and select &quot;Try it&quot; then when it gets loaded into RAM and presents the desktop I press the Windows button on my keyboard and type in TERMINAL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inside terminal, you can verify your drive connections by using&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo fdisk -l&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine showed three drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sda (with partitions) - my primary drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdb (the target drive)&#xD;&#xA;    /dev/sdc (The boot DVD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The one command you use to clone the drives is this:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 160 HDD copies in 8000 seconds (just over two hours).  &#xD;&#xA;Hint:  Amazon is selling a WD [7200 RPM 160GB drive for $9.99][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I always say that the best backup for a hard drive is another hard&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drive, especially when you can boot from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  I think Vista can use them both, but I didn't try that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the air it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I score this one a 5 out of 5.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top.  This also shows the small GPS receiver:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used the same HDMI monitor.  I also see that decent 17 and 19 inch monitors are in the 30-40 price range on eBay if you need a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the first thing I did to it.  I added my little USB GPS unit.  It shows off the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Installation instructions are here for Raspberry Pi, with notes for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the differences it took to make it work on ubuntu 14.04:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68816/how-can-i-set-up-my-g-mouse-usb-gps-for-use-with-raspbian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;I AM ACTUALLY SHOCKED AND SURPRISED TO FIND A REAL COMPUTER LIKE THIS FOR THIS PRICE.  IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. TOTAL OUTLAY WAS LESS THAT THE RPI3.  &#xD;&#xA;MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a couple of 512MB RAM sticks laying around which I installed so now I have 3GB RAM.  The thing never uses the swap file at all, even with a lot of tabs open in Chromium.  (You can see that with the htop command in the lower right corner of the last image)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**--&gt; I just ordered a second one because it is too good of a deal to pass up.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010X3AT4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24002" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7695" RevisionGUID="0d4dcfd1-0d1c-4f63-9eee-b378d83851c4" CreationDate="2017-07-07T14:20:12.670" UserId="57" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24006" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="d6ec1bf6-d6f4-4962-b642-96428474a68c" CreationDate="2017-07-07T20:05:07.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24007" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="1964e177-1761-48f5-a05b-4e5bba45686b" CreationDate="2017-07-07T21:27:30.490" UserId="57" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7700" RevisionGUID="813b55f0-daef-4efd-8d4d-46c63953727f" CreationDate="2017-07-08T15:06:24.530" UserId="1175" Text="I want to have reliable, fast, wifi coverage throughout my house. It is a quite large house, with some thick walls, so a single wireless router doesn't reach to the far corners. I have tried adding extra wireless access points and boosters, but it doesn't really work very well. Devices often lose the connection as they switch from one point to the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think about 3 access points would cover the house. Though it would be good to have the option of adding extra points as necessary. I already have a VDSL modem/router, so the access points can connect to that. I do have ethernet cables throughout the house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should all work as a single wifi network, ie all using the same SSID, so devices switch seamlessly between points as you move around the house. Maybe some sort of 'mesh' system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to spend up to about £200, for a complete system that works reliably, and is going to last a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some systems I am looking at. Any experiences of these, or other options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BT Whole Home Wi-Fi](https://www.shop.bt.com/learnmore/bt-branded-products-and-services/bt-whole-home-wi-fi/)&#xD;&#xA; - [TP-Link Deco M5](http://uk.tp-link.com/home-networking/deco/)&#xD;&#xA; - [Netgear Orbi](https://www.netgear.com/orbi/)&#xD;&#xA; - [Linksys Velop](http://www.linksys.com/us/velop/)&#xD;&#xA; - [Google Wifi](https://madeby.google.com/wifi/)&#xD;&#xA; - [Ubiquiti Unifi](https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7700" RevisionGUID="813b55f0-daef-4efd-8d4d-46c63953727f" CreationDate="2017-07-08T15:06:24.530" UserId="1175" Text="Whole home wifi system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7700" RevisionGUID="813b55f0-daef-4efd-8d4d-46c63953727f" CreationDate="2017-07-08T15:06:24.530" UserId="1175" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7701" RevisionGUID="3c3100d5-bbf4-475a-8870-9a3f66f198b0" CreationDate="2017-07-08T17:10:12.480" UserId="6568" Text="The key difference between this and a similar existing question is that I need my cameras to be not only wireless, but battery powered. I have one like this, the [Ring][1] &quot;stickupcam&quot;, which is perfect except that it can only be displayed 1 camera at a time and only can be displayed on its mobile app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the lowest cost battery powered wireless multi-camera outdoor home surveillance system where all video streams can be displayed on 1 screen, such as a flat screen TV (either my normal home TV or a dedicated flat screen of some sort).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is that I want to be able to see all parts of my yard at the same time to make sure that my dog is OK (there's a fence, but I still worry). My home is old, so there are no outdoor power outlets, few indoor ones, and I'm not eager to do major wiring upgrades to make this happen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ring.com/security-cams" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24022" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7701" RevisionGUID="3c3100d5-bbf4-475a-8870-9a3f66f198b0" CreationDate="2017-07-08T17:10:12.480" UserId="6568" Text="Battery powered multi-camera outdoor home surveillance system where all video streams can be displayed on 1 screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24023" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7701" RevisionGUID="3c3100d5-bbf4-475a-8870-9a3f66f198b0" CreationDate="2017-07-08T17:10:12.480" UserId="6568" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7701" RevisionGUID="170dd079-e6f6-4dab-b20d-0ddc388cddc5" CreationDate="2017-07-08T17:15:27.270" UserId="6568" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="The key difference between this and a similar existing question is that I need my cameras to be not only wireless, but battery powered. I have one like this, the [Ring][1] &quot;stickupcam&quot;, which is perfect except that it can only be displayed 1 camera at a time and only can be displayed on its mobile app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for the &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - lowest cost &#xD;&#xA; - battery powered &#xD;&#xA; - wireless &#xD;&#xA; - multi-camera &#xD;&#xA; - outdoor &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;home surveillance system where *all video streams can be displayed on 1 screen*, such as a flat screen TV (either my normal home TV or a dedicated flat screen of some sort).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is that I want to be able to see all parts of my yard at the same time to make sure that my dog is OK (there's a fence, but I still worry). My home is old, so there are no outdoor power outlets, few indoor ones, and I'm not eager to do major wiring upgrades to make this happen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ring.com/security-cams" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7702" RevisionGUID="4df0db8a-5969-4368-b476-ab7668b219a9" CreationDate="2017-07-08T20:38:31.527" UserId="4350" Text="The other answer was very helpful, and it opened up a whole set of options I didn't know about. Unfortunately most options are keyboards that are either custom made or have to be ordered internationally. This would mean a lot less favorable return conditions (if at all) should I not be satisfied. So I looked for something I could get in my own country first, where you can almost always return stuff within 2 weeks for a full refund.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So that's for context, and the reason I ended up skipping on the [Anne Pro][1], [CODE][2] and [WASD][3], the [Varmilo VB87M][4] (which is kinda similar to what I end up recommending), and several others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've now bought and am very happy with my **[CM Storm QuickFire TK (Red)][5]**, and I would recommend it to others with requirements similar to those in the question. Here's how it stacks up against the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Full-size shift keys on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Straight layout&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Tactile marks on F and J keys&#xD;&#xA;- ± Compact but not tiny (it's 378 x 138 mm)&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ No trackpad&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Mechanical switches. Cherry Red.&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Clearly separated F-keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Should haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✗ &lt;strike&gt;Wireless&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Under $100 &#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Basic media keys &#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Cursor keys &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually has a mixed 10-key-pad and cursor keys with Home/etc keys, and the NUMLK key determines which of the two it uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Not too loud&#xD;&#xA;- ✗ &lt;strike&gt;Wrist-rest&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ N-Key rollover&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it's the more compact Corsair K70 I said I was looking for, as you can see in this photo:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![comparison between CM Storm Quickfire TK and Corsair K70][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-1860.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-87-key-doubleshot-pbt-carbon-black-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1674&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00AOIRCI6&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPPlt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24030" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="dfd61f5f-fd46-4a31-95cb-a3f162a1a303" CreationDate="2017-07-09T06:28:20.870" UserId="5341" Comment="Made substantial changes so it is not so broad.  I am hoping to see other answers." Text="I have been using a Raspberry Pi 3B as a workstation, connected to an HDMI monitor and keyboard and mouse.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With accessories it was just over $60.  I already had the monitor, keyboard, and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works well as a workstation.  I can browse the web as long as I don't open too many tabs.  It only has 1 GB RAM, period.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bigger concern is the limited lifetime of using the SD card as primary storage.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I periodically save an image of the flash boot card onto my laptop hard drive so if the card fails I can always restore the image into a new one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it feels like I am living on borrowed time using Flash memory constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is:  Can someone recommend a low-cost Linux computer with a HDD and some RAM expandability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raspberry-PI-3-Model-B-A1-2GHz-64-bit-quad-core-ARMv8-CPU-1GB-RAM/263030031820&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B007BJHEWK&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-sd-card-noobs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Premium-ABS-Case-with-Fan-for-Raspberry-Pi-3-2-Model-B-Pi-Model-B/231974597486" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24031" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="dfd61f5f-fd46-4a31-95cb-a3f162a1a303" CreationDate="2017-07-09T06:28:20.870" UserId="5341" Comment="Made substantial changes so it is not so broad.  I am hoping to see other answers." Text="Can someone recommend a low-cost Linux computer with a HDD and some RAM expandability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="1841491c-3c80-4761-89fe-be95729e530c" CreationDate="2017-07-09T06:31:51.970" UserId="5341" Comment="Took out a lot of extraneous stuff - just the facts, and all that." Text="I found this deal on eBay.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like an excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer runs Ubuntu 16.04 like it was made for it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also comes with Windows Vista.  When I first turned it on it began the Windows Vista installation sequence.  So I used the power button to stop it then make a quick backup of the initial state (de rigueur) then dedicated the whole drive to Ubuntu 14.04, which then helpfully offered to upgrade itself to 16.04 LTS (lifetime service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plenty of USB ports on the back, and 2 on the front.  Also a Firewire port on the front.  (Whatever)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.  GPS antenna works great.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  It barely breaks a sweat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  I think Vista can use them both, but I didn't try that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  This is a great unit to place under a desk as long as it gets the air it wants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;It has DVI and RGB outputs so I used the same HDMI monitor with an adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010X3AT4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24034" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="fd5dcb7c-32c5-4936-9aa2-467069763978" CreationDate="2017-07-09T20:21:04.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24035" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="dda4c202-274b-4bc9-8a9e-1584a59fe289" CreationDate="2017-07-09T21:22:01.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7703" RevisionGUID="7773c1be-2464-49cf-8a0e-fef12269d7f6" CreationDate="2017-07-10T10:01:04.477" UserId="6553" Text="Since I can't comment due to a lacking reputation of 50, I will write an answer instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First the STK1AW32SC is capable of computing 4k, but it will need to utilize just about everything it has to do so, any other tasks it has to perfom in that time will result in visible quality loss.&#xD;&#xA;On the side, newer generations of Intel's CompuStick are more powerfull and are fully 4K capable (see [their site](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/compute-stick/intel-compute-stick-core.html) for that) but they're not cheap and probably out of question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you should look into the upcoming Up² (&quot;Up Squared&quot;) SoC's, they are capable of 4K and most models are also in your price range. I would recommend a 4GB-RAM build over a 2GB.([UP-Board](http://www.up-board.org/upsquared/))" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7704" RevisionGUID="643465cf-d819-4228-9ba0-8be87acac2aa" CreationDate="2017-07-10T17:09:30.943" UserId="6475" Text="Noctua makes a range of low-profile and low-decibel coolers. A number of other companies do as well but in my experience Noctua has the best track record for performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model might work for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Noctua Low-Profile Quiet CPU Cooler for Intel 115x Based Retail Cooling NH-L9I&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon Link:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's 37mm tall, it fits the socket for a kaby lake i3, and it's designed to dissipate ~65W of power draw (your CPU has a TDP of just under 60, since the higher specced i3-7530K runs a TDP of 61... benchmarks for the i3-7530K were easier to find). I can back up the reviews that say it is a virtually silent cooler, as I've used Noctua fans for years. They are excellent quality and barely audible, especially if you mount them using the included rubber stoppers (this will likely be the default installation method for the cooler, that bit more applies to case fans).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should fulfill all of your requirements, and it's not even more expensive than options from Cooler Master and other manufacturers. Hope this helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7625" RevisionGUID="0633984c-e826-48f2-a004-e333904226be" CreationDate="2017-07-10T23:43:14.570" UserId="5341" Comment="deleted 662 characters in body" Text="Here's one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[][2][![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like an excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$38 and free shipping in the USA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB.  It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6 USB ports on the back and 2 on the front.  Firewire port on the front and back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back.  Ethernet port on back works great.  WiFi adapter works fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dual-core 3GHz processor is good.  Motherboard is made by Intel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDD is a slim 3.5&quot; SATA.  The DVD drive is really fast.  Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7)  I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display output is by DVI or VGA.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it.  Open vents on the left for the motherboard &amp; exhaust fan on top:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of the motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010X3AT4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EymV7.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7707" RevisionGUID="e5c9ef3f-a0a4-4d85-9881-a3949568e8de" CreationDate="2017-07-11T04:10:10.007" UserId="476" Text="If all you do is YouTube/Netflix streaming, you could use an [Xbox One S][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: since you said possibly *building*, I'm going to assume that this is small enough for you)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Pros&#xD;&#xA; - More powerful CPU (than compute stick)&#xD;&#xA; - 500GB Storage (or 1TB depending on model) vs. 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - Quick and easy setup&#xD;&#xA; - [Supports 4K][2]&#xD;&#xA; - You can play games &#xD;&#xA; - Blu-ray reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Cons&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's big&#xD;&#xA;- **It doesn't run Windows** (Possibly a reason to not consider this, depending on what you plan on using your 'micro-pc' for.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-500GB-Console-Horizon/dp/B01NBWF2JE/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24049" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="ba978531-a967-435b-b203-e24efc24df8e" CreationDate="2017-07-11T12:16:54.977" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24050" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="afeba5ef-504c-4e8e-a84b-ab886df4a46f" CreationDate="2017-07-11T13:16:55.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7708" RevisionGUID="0987de80-47ef-4583-b22d-519b7a5b2539" CreationDate="2017-07-11T17:02:59.627" UserId="6476" Text="Ethereum, like others have said is memory intensive. Therefore AMD cards such as the 470/480 570/580 shine. What you need to look for is the hash rate for each graphic card to determine what is the most cost effective. But, you also have to consider if stock is even available for those cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For Ethereum, I would only consider 1060 6GB, 470/570 480/580. Ethereum requires cards that are over 2gb at the moment and it will soon grow to be over 3GB as its DAG size grows overtime. Therefore cards like the RX 550, despite being a watt/cost winner, will not work. Although 1060 3GB will still work, it's not a sound investment as dag is approaching 3GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to rank the cards, it would be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 470/570&#xD;&#xA; 2. 480/580 &#xD;&#xA; 3. 1060 6gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 470/570 wins as Ethereum does not depend much on the number of cores or GB/s texture fill, but rather memory speeds. They can reach 28~32 Mh/s, equivalent to the 480/580.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 480/580 is more expensive, but still beats nvidia in terms of performance for a lower MSRP cost. Stock cards run at 22~24 Mhash/s but with timing tweaks, memory overclock it can achieve 28~32 Mh/s. The card draws 100W when underclock to the core and power limit is lowered from personal experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 1060 6GB can mine at ~18 Mh/s, but with memory overclock it can achieve 22~23 Mh/s at 90W." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24055" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="1912ead2-2433-45d5-9858-26acb23da052" CreationDate="2017-07-12T09:41:52.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24057" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7710" RevisionGUID="ef78fb3e-c001-4ebd-9fae-704243d7d7a9" CreationDate="2017-07-12T12:42:57.007" UserId="6157" Text="I'm looking for a switch with port mirroring function and write protection function for his flash memory, so that no malicious code can be stored at the chipset or other connected machines can change configurations during runtime. Does anyone please give me some product recommendations with respect to the requirements above?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24058" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7710" RevisionGUID="ef78fb3e-c001-4ebd-9fae-704243d7d7a9" CreationDate="2017-07-12T12:42:57.007" UserId="6157" Text="Secure switch for network monitorring" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24059" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7710" RevisionGUID="ef78fb3e-c001-4ebd-9fae-704243d7d7a9" CreationDate="2017-07-12T12:42:57.007" UserId="6157" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="1fe790fa-9651-48f8-838c-20c1a677e150" CreationDate="2017-07-12T13:51:40.007" UserId="565" Text="I used to work with a Thinkpad t420s and t61 which both have awesome keyboards like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately Lenovo replaced it by a really bad 6 row layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any new 14' - 15'  Laptop with decent power and a similar desktop like keyboard Layout out there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bm4Ix.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xNrDk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24061" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="1fe790fa-9651-48f8-838c-20c1a677e150" CreationDate="2017-07-12T13:51:40.007" UserId="565" Text="Laptop with 7 row keyboard layout" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24062" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="1fe790fa-9651-48f8-838c-20c1a677e150" CreationDate="2017-07-12T13:51:40.007" UserId="565" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7712" RevisionGUID="24569e11-8f53-4909-9738-757829217bea" CreationDate="2017-07-12T14:44:45.030" UserId="4858" Text="I'm looking for a new monitor for my workstation. Unluckily, in my office the lighting is a bit weird, generating a lot of reflections, so I'd like a real-matte monitor like they used to make some years ago (and they sometimes still produce on 24&quot;/27&quot; monitors); but recent, large displays seem to be mostly semi-glossy or glossy. I can tell the glossiness of the AOC U3477PQU is excessive, as an example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'd like a suggestion for a display that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has a size between 30&quot; and 35&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution is not THAT important, but I'd like a 3440x1440 or 3840x2160 display (I don't have a real bond on aspect ratio)&#xD;&#xA; - DP 1.2 (I don't have HDMI 2.0 on my laptop)&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Europe&#xD;&#xA; - Absolutely **matte or extremely low glare**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24064" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7712" RevisionGUID="24569e11-8f53-4909-9738-757829217bea" CreationDate="2017-07-12T14:44:45.030" UserId="4858" Text="Which matte or very low glare large size (30&quot;/35&quot;) monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24065" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7712" RevisionGUID="24569e11-8f53-4909-9738-757829217bea" CreationDate="2017-07-12T14:44:45.030" UserId="4858" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7713" RevisionGUID="d035400c-4379-44f7-940f-9df3bf4018f4" CreationDate="2017-07-12T22:46:48.183" UserId="6157" Text="Does there exists a EuroDOCSIS 3.0 cable modem, where the internal flash memory has write protection, so that the the configuration can't be changed during runtime if write protection is enabled?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24069" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7713" RevisionGUID="d035400c-4379-44f7-940f-9df3bf4018f4" CreationDate="2017-07-12T22:46:48.183" UserId="6157" Text="Secure EuroDOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24070" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7713" RevisionGUID="d035400c-4379-44f7-940f-9df3bf4018f4" CreationDate="2017-07-12T22:46:48.183" UserId="6157" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24071" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="a5417f9f-bd05-4b43-8763-4aee7452f594" CreationDate="2017-07-13T02:10:47.970" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24074" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="2b035da8-96ea-4054-be47-58e635079697" CreationDate="2017-07-13T16:18:18.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7714" RevisionGUID="b11323f8-8b35-4c45-83c8-ec6094542c33" CreationDate="2017-07-13T16:28:46.623" UserId="4832" Text="I am impressed with the performance of the TP-Link AD7200 Wireless Router. But I am also aware that the 802.11ad ecosystem is still growing. There are not too many devices that support this band range/technology natively. Typically, one may buy a network adapter card that plugs in via usb or PCIe. However, when browsing different online sites, I found no network adapters that support 802.11ad. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I just really bad at searching or are there really no network adapters for 802.11ad yet? If the latter is true, I would find that surprising because it's halfway into 2017, and this ecosystem is **still** in its infancy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My end goal is to put a 802.11ad network adapter into my desktop PC. I'm not sure what needs to be compatible for such a configuration, so here is some (hopefully) relevant information:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - use scenario: open floor-plan (no walls)&#xD;&#xA; - available pcie slots: 1&#xD;&#xA; - available usb slots: 5&#xD;&#xA; - cpu: 4790k&#xD;&#xA; - motherboard: z97x-gaming 3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7714" RevisionGUID="b11323f8-8b35-4c45-83c8-ec6094542c33" CreationDate="2017-07-13T16:28:46.623" UserId="4832" Text="Network Adapter to make PC 802.11ad compatible" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7714" RevisionGUID="b11323f8-8b35-4c45-83c8-ec6094542c33" CreationDate="2017-07-13T16:28:46.623" UserId="4832" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7715" RevisionGUID="27a31163-adf5-467b-9954-4501fcacfed8" CreationDate="2017-07-13T19:24:18.607" UserId="6428" Text="I've purchased this case off of Newegg for my custom NAS: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816215244&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This case has 4 SATA cable ports for each individual hard drive. **I'm looking for an SATA cable adapter that will work with USB 2.0**. The challenge I have found has been that there are plenty of SATA to USB solutions out there, but they include SATA cable and SATA power all on one cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My hard drives are powered through the two SATA power ports on the machine and hence do not need the power connection. Any advice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTE:** I fully understand the bottleneck from SATA to USB 2.0. This will just serve as a temporary solution for non-time sensitive tasks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24079" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7715" RevisionGUID="27a31163-adf5-467b-9954-4501fcacfed8" CreationDate="2017-07-13T19:24:18.607" UserId="6428" Text="SATA cable to USB 2.0 adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24080" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7715" RevisionGUID="27a31163-adf5-467b-9954-4501fcacfed8" CreationDate="2017-07-13T19:24:18.607" UserId="6428" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7716" RevisionGUID="e8e68751-750f-49d9-b2ea-7aecb794f428" CreationDate="2017-07-13T20:08:21.273" UserId="6089" Text="I have an older model of this drive adapter:&#xD;&#xA;[Newertech USB 3.0 Universal Drive Adapter][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![Newertech USB 3.0 Universal Drive Adapter][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;which of course means mine is USB 2.0. The specifications on the web site indicate that the device will work with a USB 2.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power supply to the hard drives is a separate set of components. As you note in your question, you already have power to your drive. You would need to connect only the data portion to the drive and the computer to accomplish your objective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon][3] has it for under US$35.00.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newertech.com/products/usb3_universaldriveadap.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/COLs7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Newer-Tech-Universal-Superspeed-NWTU3NVSPATA/dp/B00506QPDU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24082" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ed68d69b-ffa5-401a-b68c-c05f65df98d4" CreationDate="2017-07-14T07:20:13.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7717" RevisionGUID="a2f91ef1-d16c-4f27-bf20-8629eacea0ab" CreationDate="2017-07-14T07:36:05.873" UserId="5358" Text="This [link][1] agrees with you:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; These high prices really hit home when you consider which devices are able connect to this router via 802.11ad, which, at the time of writing, were absolutely none. Just about the only product that has even been announced so far is a middle-of-the-road Acer laptop that you can't yet buy anywhere, while there are no PC card adapters, phones, or tablets yet featuring the technology. We strongly suspect it'll be at least another six months before the situation changes.&#xA;&#xA;That was six months ago, but the article even suggests it’s possible nothing will be available yet. I’d just keep crossing your fingers and waiting.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/amp/s/arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/12/802-11ad-wifi-guide-review/%3Famp%3D1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7717" RevisionGUID="4a4c6b25-7559-4802-8bcc-c8ffa760c043" CreationDate="2017-07-14T07:41:31.313" UserId="5358" Comment="added 216 characters in body" Text="This [link][1] agrees with you:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; These high prices really hit home when you consider which devices are able connect to this router via 802.11ad, which, at the time of writing, were absolutely none. Just about the only product that has even been announced so far is a middle-of-the-road Acer laptop that you can't yet buy anywhere, while there are no PC card adapters, phones, or tablets yet featuring the technology. We strongly suspect it'll be at least another six months before the situation changes.&#xA;&#xA;That was six months ago, but the article even suggests it’s possible nothing will be available yet. I’d just keep crossing your fingers and waiting.&#xA;&#xA;The only products I found were [this][2] and [this][3], but I don’t think they match what you are looking for.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/amp/s/arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/12/802-11ad-wifi-guide-review/%3Famp%3D1&#xA;  [2]: https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIABP54VU7548&#xA;  [3]: https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIABP55DM1726" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7719" RevisionGUID="6cb7c291-f8db-4a17-a610-442bfca18902" CreationDate="2017-07-14T16:09:32.943" UserId="5949" Text="I'm not sure if this is the right stackexchange for this but here goes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a writer (among other things), and I'm often on the go. It would be extremely helpful for me if I could write on a computer with keyboard that is the size of an ipad. I know that there are tablets of (about) that size with a keyboard connected to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I also like e-readers with e-ink displays for reading. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a tablet/notebook, that runs a normal operating system (like windows or iOS, or Ubuntu), where you can open word processors, chrome, and so forth, *which has an e-ink display* (and is cheap)?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7719" RevisionGUID="6cb7c291-f8db-4a17-a610-442bfca18902" CreationDate="2017-07-14T16:09:32.943" UserId="5949" Text="ipad sized notebook/tablet with e-ink screen and keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7719" RevisionGUID="6cb7c291-f8db-4a17-a610-442bfca18902" CreationDate="2017-07-14T16:09:32.943" UserId="5949" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24092" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="a837a477-1b4d-484f-bbee-8a5f99b73bf7" CreationDate="2017-07-14T18:22:50.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24093" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7720" RevisionGUID="e404765f-fa9a-45bb-b1c2-87ce547467cf" CreationDate="2017-07-14T18:49:38.503" UserId="6585" Text="My company has a &quot;Quality of Life&quot; benefit that if I don't use, I will lose. I am thinking about buying 2 Dell P2416D monitors (2560 x 1440), and a docking station that is compatible with both my work and personal laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My work laptop is a [Dell E7470](http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/productdetails/latitude-e7470-ultrabook) running Windows 10. My personal laptop is a MacBookPro10 purchased in Aug 2012 that I run Windows 10 via Bootcamp on 90% of the time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't game, and don't expect to add speakers. I really just want to have two monitors, a keyboard, and a mouse. Nothing fancy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24094" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7720" RevisionGUID="e404765f-fa9a-45bb-b1c2-87ce547467cf" CreationDate="2017-07-14T18:49:38.503" UserId="6585" Text="Dual monitor Docking Station for work and personal computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24095" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7720" RevisionGUID="e404765f-fa9a-45bb-b1c2-87ce547467cf" CreationDate="2017-07-14T18:49:38.503" UserId="6585" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24103" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7723" RevisionGUID="d6667c1f-a337-4c17-ad67-88f0b7579b7d" CreationDate="2017-07-14T22:32:41.263" UserId="2222" Text="I have been looking for a long while now but every product I found had something missing. It's like manufacturers make a product, fix some issues in the next iteration but make something worse; every time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of what I would really like to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8 threads CPU (which means either 4 core w/ HT or 8 core, thanks to Intel quad-core CPUs are practically non-existent nowadays)&#xD;&#xA; - 2-in-1, 360° variant seems the most available but others like detachable are OK as well&#xD;&#xA; - Discrete GPU, GTX 1050 4GB (or equivalent) is what I am heading for&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad, seems like an optional nowadays, the numpad automatically requires a minimal screen size of 15&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  - Sidenote: 15&quot; or bigger laptops w/out numpad are just stupid (damn you Yoga 420 15&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet Port&#xD;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0 Ports&#xD;&#xA; - A headphone jack&#xD;&#xA; - At least one USB C port&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort (preferably) or HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - Rotation sensor&#xD;&#xA; - Mousepad with dedicated mouse keys&#xD;&#xA;  - Two-finger scrolling and pinch support &#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p or similar resolution screen, would actually prefer 16:10 aspect ratio (like I'd have no problem with a 1600x1000 screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - IPS&#xD;&#xA; - No weird keyboards, standard layout a.k.a. now space saving hacks like half sized arrow keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not super important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated media keys&#xD;&#xA; - NVMe SSD 250GB&#xD;&#xA; - 100% sRGB coverage and good colours&#xD;&#xA; - Build in HSDPA+ or LTE modem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cool optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A touch bar like the one in the MacBook Pro something 2017? (not gonna comment here)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know It's a lot but some help would be appreciated. Thank You!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd love if a manufacturer would read this and reach out to me to beta test a possible new laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: If something comes to my mind I'll update the post and mark any changes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24104" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7723" RevisionGUID="d6667c1f-a337-4c17-ad67-88f0b7579b7d" CreationDate="2017-07-14T22:32:41.263" UserId="2222" Text="2-in-1 convertible with numpad, 8 threads and discrete graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24105" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7723" RevisionGUID="d6667c1f-a337-4c17-ad67-88f0b7579b7d" CreationDate="2017-07-14T22:32:41.263" UserId="2222" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24120" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7058" RevisionGUID="3c024916-dc9a-4f04-aba0-7a6d5c22e894" CreationDate="2017-07-15T16:35:21.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7725" RevisionGUID="975e3b91-c738-4e55-a796-a762cbbfefa4" CreationDate="2017-07-15T20:53:36.253" UserId="6591" Text="I'm thinking about purchasing an external Dac for my iPhone to improve volume and quality of music I listen to when out and about.&#xA;&#xA;I understand when I upgrade from the 6 to the iPhone 7, I will be forced to use an external Dac if I want to keep the same headphones I'm using now? Betron B750s.&#xA;&#xA;Any Dac recommendations? I don't want something which drains the iPhones battery.&#xA;&#xA;Been looking at Dragonfly black/reds, anyone using one of these?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24122" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7725" RevisionGUID="975e3b91-c738-4e55-a796-a762cbbfefa4" CreationDate="2017-07-15T20:53:36.253" UserId="6591" Text="IOS external dac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24123" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7725" RevisionGUID="975e3b91-c738-4e55-a796-a762cbbfefa4" CreationDate="2017-07-15T20:53:36.253" UserId="6591" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7726" RevisionGUID="c4482231-8a8c-40da-9e4b-3e4c59553a0a" CreationDate="2017-07-15T23:56:16.000" UserId="6592" Text="I'm building a new system and I want to keep it as quiet as I can without degrading performance.  I do plan on doing some moderate overclocking.  I am planning on using an all-in-one CPU liquid cooler.  Am I better off getting one with 3 120mm fans for the extra radiator surface area or will a smaller radiator with 2 140mm fans still keep the system plenty cool and quieter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24125" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7726" RevisionGUID="c4482231-8a8c-40da-9e4b-3e4c59553a0a" CreationDate="2017-07-15T23:56:16.000" UserId="6592" Text="Should I get a radiator with 2x140mm fans or 3x120mm fans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24126" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7726" RevisionGUID="c4482231-8a8c-40da-9e4b-3e4c59553a0a" CreationDate="2017-07-15T23:56:16.000" UserId="6592" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7728" RevisionGUID="aba63efa-efe4-4aae-abd1-1142e87fb521" CreationDate="2017-07-16T06:52:56.933" UserId="2480" Text="If you only plan to only cool your CPU with the AIO cooler, I would say 2 140mm fans will keep your CPU plenty cool and be quieter then 3 120mm fans. However if you plan to cool your GPU as well, you will want the 3 120mm radiator. Regardless of the 2 140mm or 3 120mm radiator, the kind of fans used on it will make all the difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can very easily get 3 120mm fans that are considerably quieter then 2 140mm fans, however having less fans will make it easier for keeping things quiet.  From personal experience I have found that very rarely will any cooler come with high quality fans. I usually buy fans regardless if the cooler comes with them or not, that way I can make sure the cooler will be as quiet as possible while still being able to provide good performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For radiator fans, and case fans in general, there are 3 things to keep in mind when choosing a fan - fan speed, noise level and static pressure.  Check out this video for an explanation about static pressure vs air flow and why static pressure is important - [Static Pressure vs. High Airflow Fans As Fast As Possible][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have personally had extremely good results from Noctua fans, they have a low sound level, good performance and a long life. For a 140mm radiator fan I would recommend this fan - [Noctua NF-A14 PWM][2], if you went with the 3 120mm radiator I would still recommend the Noctua brand - [Noctua NF-F12 PWM][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it is important to keep in mind that ultimately what is important is not the amount of noise that the fan makes but the amount of noise you hear. Things like where the fan radiator is placed, or what it is placed in, can go a long way in reducing the amount of noise you here.  One such method would be to place the radiator in a box lined with noise suppressing foam as a way to decrease the noise that you hear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also important that your computer fans are setup so the air flows as efficiently as possible, such as fans in the front are intake fans and the fans in the back and top are exhaust fans.  Another thing to keep in mind if your bios offers this feature is to set the fans to variable speed, this allows the fans to only increase their speed (noise) when the computer needs them to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Tips for Quiet PC][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[How to Geek.com - managing computer air flow][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://youtu.be/Mdx9U-KW038&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-pwm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-f12-pwm&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/quiet-please-advanced-pc-silencing&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.howtogeek.com/303078/how-to-manage-your-pcs-fans-for-optimal-airflow-and-cooling/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24132" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7695" RevisionGUID="fe1b0031-eda9-4afd-a4ed-5f809d47192a" CreationDate="2017-07-16T07:23:53.563" UserId="6558" Comment="more details" Text="I'd like to create my custom NAS box built on raspberry or clone. I need recommendation for an arm/atom/else board approx the size of raspb that has 2x sata ports that would enable software raid1 case for me. Not looking for usb 3.0 solutions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7730" RevisionGUID="646abba5-4f35-46a7-ade8-a5d8828ed14d" CreationDate="2017-07-16T11:57:59.793" UserId="6594" Text="I've been searching for a Mobile WIFI Router that supports 4 sim card slots but with no result, have anyone of you stumbled upon such a thing ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24137" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7730" RevisionGUID="646abba5-4f35-46a7-ade8-a5d8828ed14d" CreationDate="2017-07-16T11:57:59.793" UserId="6594" Text="Multi sim card slots Mobile WIFI Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24138" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7730" RevisionGUID="646abba5-4f35-46a7-ade8-a5d8828ed14d" CreationDate="2017-07-16T11:57:59.793" UserId="6594" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7731" RevisionGUID="3fdb9e8d-6deb-4ec8-8437-881bcf7c4778" CreationDate="2017-07-16T13:05:02.033" UserId="6596" Text="As one of probably many around the world, I managed to get a decent internet package with my mobile phone, and like to use that on my PC as well. The ISP doesn't mind this as long as data usage stays reasonable, and it's very nice to be able to SSH into things and do work on the go. &#xD;&#xA;SO I wanted to put this card in a separate LTE modem router, so I'd have a bigger antenna, stable fast wifi hotspot and less hassle overall, but unfortunately that means I lose the ability to make normal voice calls and usually also can't receive let alone send texts/SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I was looking for a LTE/4G modem (with preferably a large antenna or SMA connector) that I can plug into a small linux box (e.g raspi), that *also* supports voice calling and texts, so that I can use something like Freeswitch/Asterisk to route this to my phone over the hotspot connection, while also using the data connection on any other connected device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know a decent, linux-compatible LTE/4G modem, with voicecalling and texting support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24140" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7731" RevisionGUID="3fdb9e8d-6deb-4ec8-8437-881bcf7c4778" CreationDate="2017-07-16T13:05:02.033" UserId="6596" Text="Linux compatible LTE/4G modem WITH voice and texting support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24141" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7731" RevisionGUID="3fdb9e8d-6deb-4ec8-8437-881bcf7c4778" CreationDate="2017-07-16T13:05:02.033" UserId="6596" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7732" RevisionGUID="d78004c7-5f39-48d7-8563-fcc5aa918637" CreationDate="2017-07-16T15:48:01.530" UserId="1329" Text="The device SEJPM mentions in his comment would fit you requirements and is offered by a variety of manufacturers to complement their laptop products as well as 3rd party computing devices. [DisplayLink][1] is the company that makes the chips that enable the video functionality. I have used such a device before and I still have it, though I have a problem with calling these devices docks as these are not traditional docks but big dongles with 45W PSUs and they can get quite hot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They get the job done quite reliably and the manufacturer offers drivers for a wide variety of platforms, even Linux (they didn't offer drivers for their 3.0 devices at first, but this has been solved a few years back). My older Thinkpad T530 from 2012 had no problems displaying 3 1080p videos with this and my 2 Dell 1080p monitors connected at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.displaylink.com/downloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24143" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7504" RevisionGUID="4088f552-5be8-4417-bb30-4b3e385a8641" CreationDate="2017-07-16T16:47:50.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7732" RevisionGUID="e445177a-355e-44a0-852b-848b984b3718" CreationDate="2017-07-16T17:05:35.920" UserId="1329" Comment="added 1100 characters in body" Text="The device SEJPM mentions in his comment would fit you requirements and is offered by a variety of manufacturers to complement their laptop products as well as 3rd party computing devices. [DisplayLink][1] is the company that makes the chips that enable the video functionality. I have used such a device before and I still have it, though I have a problem with calling these devices docks as these are not traditional docks but big dongles with 45W PSUs and they can get quite hot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They get the job done quite reliably and the manufacturer offers drivers for a wide variety of platforms, even Linux (they didn't offer drivers for their 3.0 devices at first, but this has been solved a few years back). My older Thinkpad T530 from 2012 had no problems displaying 3 1080p videos with this and my 2 Dell 1080p monitors connected at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: In theory everything should work fine, but I did some testing with the devices I have here in the office (1×Dell U2512H, several Dell U2412M), turns out that you should check when getting one of the DisplayLink devices and which one in particular exactly as dual 2560×1440 may be too much for Gen 3xxx devices like mine, devices with 5xxx chips may support such high resolutions older ones were probably made to just support dual 1080p or 1200p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The U2512H is detected on my Linux machines with recent drivers at proper resolution but as soon as I plug one of the other monitors in its resolution drops to the highest one supported at this data rate (similar to HDMI 1.3 only capable devices, though I connected the bigger monitor to the DisplayPort output). You can set the refresh rate to 30Hz to still drive the monitor at full resolution, but I don't recommend that. DisplayPort chaining is not supported on mine, so a third monitor will just be a clone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also DisplayLink solutions don't support night modes as offered through f.lux, Redshift and some recent desktop environments. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.displaylink.com/downloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7734" RevisionGUID="c639ae67-26b3-4e03-ba00-6c74deca7674" CreationDate="2017-07-16T19:52:08.993" UserId="6568" Text="Most aerial drones on the consumer market seem to have painfully limited flying time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the maximum on the consumer / developer market? Obviously, military drones have extraordinary capacities, but I presume they use technology that's not allowed or not available in the private market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need to be programmable or have some API option to give it pre-set flying instructions rather than just RC control, or other technology to allow it to fly longer distances. Let's keep the price under a couple of thousand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware of 2 drones made by DJI that claim 27 minute flying time for around $1000." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24148" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7734" RevisionGUID="c639ae67-26b3-4e03-ba00-6c74deca7674" CreationDate="2017-07-16T19:52:08.993" UserId="6568" Text="Aerial drone with maximal flight time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24149" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7734" RevisionGUID="c639ae67-26b3-4e03-ba00-6c74deca7674" CreationDate="2017-07-16T19:52:08.993" UserId="6568" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24150" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7734" RevisionGUID="48a2ac48-514d-4628-9e71-6abb89c39195" CreationDate="2017-07-16T19:57:45.223" UserId="6568" Comment="edited body" Text="Most aerial drones on the consumer market seem to have painfully limited flying time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the maximum on the consumer / developer market? Obviously, military drones have extraordinary capacities, but I presume they use technology that's not allowed or not available in the private market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would need to be programmable or have some API option to give it pre-set flying instructions rather than just RC control, or other technology to allow it to fly longer distances. Let's keep the price under a couple of thousand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware of the DJI Mavic Pro, which claims 27 minute flying time for around $1200." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24151" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7735" RevisionGUID="75bb27ef-645c-4ca3-9d62-35f7dbd3e320" CreationDate="2017-07-17T01:43:37.573" UserId="5001" Text="[PepWave MAX HD4](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-cellular-router/multi-cellular/#hd4 ) would be the item you are looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24152" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="6c3cb844-ba1b-40e0-ac06-ff624f44a30b" CreationDate="2017-07-17T01:47:57.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24154" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2174" RevisionGUID="213d6c1e-f891-4b94-8927-2ed477688bf7" CreationDate="2017-07-17T05:47:57.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7737" RevisionGUID="553371db-6b5e-4b28-b6be-5292a4867b89" CreationDate="2017-07-17T12:19:44.910" UserId="6537" Text="Could someone please recommend a cooler for a Ryzen AM4 motherboard (ASUS Prime X370-PRO). I need one that comes with a complete mounting kit (i.e. the first step in attaching is to remove the kit that comes with the motherboard, that is two bits of plastic on its top side next to the socket, and presumably a backing plate underneath). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be clear, the parts that I don't have are visible in the photo at the top of https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/ I have just holes in the motherboard instead of the four screws around the CPU socket, and the two bits of plastic that they attach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance. Suggestions for where to find a replacement mounting kit that should have come with the board very welcome too. Thanks again." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7737" RevisionGUID="553371db-6b5e-4b28-b6be-5292a4867b89" CreationDate="2017-07-17T12:19:44.910" UserId="6537" Text="Recommendation for a Ryzen cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7737" RevisionGUID="553371db-6b5e-4b28-b6be-5292a4867b89" CreationDate="2017-07-17T12:19:44.910" UserId="6537" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5800" RevisionGUID="b4f20450-afaf-4926-9c2c-83c9eb1d8afa" CreationDate="2017-07-17T13:48:22.950" UserId="219" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="Not exactly a drone but more or less accomplishes most of the same thing. This thing is pretty awesome:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Site: http://global.varram.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FkAjg.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/86itw.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24164" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="9764dd69-6957-481c-97a7-d1ed15fcab50" CreationDate="2017-07-17T15:51:35.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24168" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="d332b7a5-1483-49a6-88f8-c595d37e7a98" CreationDate="2017-07-17T22:06:02.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7743" RevisionGUID="970014d1-913f-44a3-89a4-6adda896e878" CreationDate="2017-07-18T12:11:26.430" UserId="4786" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard that is compatible with the CPU in question, but it must be with in my $130 Budget. I'm looking for a board suitable for budget gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The board must have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ DDR3/DDR4(If Possible) DIMM Slots, which can hold at least 8GB of RAM total&#xD;&#xA; - At least 1 PCI-E x16 Slot for a Graphics Card &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only one that I found is this one:- [Ebay][1], would this work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or is there another alternative board that I can use instead?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EX58-Extreme-Intel-X58-Chipset-Socket-LGA-1366-Socket-B-Motherboard-Mainboard/191816962556?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41451%26meid%3D5c1eaaee27fe476090a381a262cdf950%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272545355248" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7743" RevisionGUID="970014d1-913f-44a3-89a4-6adda896e878" CreationDate="2017-07-18T12:11:26.430" UserId="4786" Text="LGA1366 Motherboard compatiable with Xeon E5640 Quad Core CPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7743" RevisionGUID="970014d1-913f-44a3-89a4-6adda896e878" CreationDate="2017-07-18T12:11:26.430" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7744" RevisionGUID="229c30b8-f18a-402d-bfa6-bba7d77d76af" CreationDate="2017-07-18T12:37:45.487" UserId="6609" Text="Have you considered a low-end NUC for that use case?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably too late here, but I have the exact same use case and wanted to share my solution and see if you managed to find an alternative. After looking around and finding no single board alternatives, I've come across some lower end NUCs that may work for the task, like the [Gigabyte GB-BACE-3000 Brix][1].  It's not exactly the same kind of device, but it ticks all your boxes while still having a very low power consumption. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Gigabit Port: 1&#xD;&#xA;    USB 3.0: 4&#xD;&#xA;    (optional) SATA: 1&#xD;&#xA;    (optional) x86 based processor for Windows: yes&#xD;&#xA;    under or slightly above 100€ (or $): yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://es.gigabyte.com/products/page/desktop_platform/gb-bace-3000rev_10#kf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7747" RevisionGUID="904b4faa-c18a-43e6-88bb-f7e7a942c63a" CreationDate="2017-07-18T15:11:11.740" UserId="6475" Text="http://assets.coolermaster.com/landing/am4-socket-ready/v2/download/RR-AM4B-H212-S1.pdfq&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is a link to the installation instructions for installing a Coolermaster after-market cooler. It lists the following models as compatible with an AM4 socket:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MasterAir Pro 4&#xD;&#xA;- MasterAir Pro 3&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 412 Series&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 212 EVO&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 212 X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The instructions specifically state that you need to remove those two plastic brackets and the screws, using the backplate and the holes in the mobo to install the cooler instead of those brackets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm certain that if you looked at other cooler manufacturers like BeQuiet or Noctua you could find something with similar after-market brackets if none of the listed options meet your other unlisted requirements, whatever they may be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will also recommend contacting Asus and having them ship you a spare bracket, as I'm not able to find any online that aren't the usual litany of poorly priced ebay listings. Your motherboard should have come with that, and if your aftermarket cooler were to break or something that backup option should be available to you. You're the customer, get what you paid for.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="c8f9304c-145c-47e3-ba21-3ee7747e1d2e" CreationDate="2017-07-18T15:58:53.217" UserId="6612" Text="I am in a situation a little different from others described in other posts, so I will try opening my own thread.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to buy a laptop, and someone else is paying for it. I can go as high as $1000, probably. But my requirements for performance are fairly lite: beyond Chrome, Notepad++, and some other programs (emulating PSX/N64), the most intensive thing I do with any regularity is run Sypder and other Python-related software for data analysis and machine learning. The computer I work with now has 8 gigs of ram and it's been totally fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it were my own money I'd get something on the cheaper end. Since I'm not paying for it, though, I'm very interested in durability over time--it isn't likely that the next computer I buy after this one will be paid for by someone else. With that in mind, I'm looking for a laptop with a metal casing and a sturdy, compact feel. The weight makes little difference to me as long as it isn't made of lead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize, here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows laptop&#xD;&#xA; - Under $1000&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum 8 gigs of ram&#xD;&#xA; - Metal casing, sturdy feel&#xD;&#xA; - Long-term reliability important&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you have any advice for navigating this situation, I'd appreciate it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24196" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="c8f9304c-145c-47e3-ba21-3ee7747e1d2e" CreationDate="2017-07-18T15:58:53.217" UserId="6612" Text="Best laptop, under $1000, for sturdiness and durability, not necessarily performance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24197" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="c8f9304c-145c-47e3-ba21-3ee7747e1d2e" CreationDate="2017-07-18T15:58:53.217" UserId="6612" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7749" RevisionGUID="c53da229-b6bf-42fc-9b7d-8e05500cc709" CreationDate="2017-07-18T16:24:55.370" UserId="6475" Text="This is a tough one for a number of reasons. E-ink displays are traditionally way too slow for practical use in the capacity that you're talking about, the refresh rate is way too long and you end up with artifacts on the screen. I've tried this myself with an e-reader, it was not a good experience. This thread details some similar experiences, if that helps lend any credibility:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=8327281&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So we've identified a problem, let's focus on a solution. I warn you now it is not cheap, but it's really the only thing that is going to do what you're asking it to do and it's all I've been able to find the past two days of hunting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.einkmonitor.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That monitor is pretty much the only thing you're going to find that will provide a usable experience with a full operating system (Windows, iOS, etc.). Obviously it will also do the trick for reading. It is specifically designed from the ground up to be a functional e-ink monitor, and utilizes new technology and algorithms to improve response time and give the user control over features and settings. It is portable, though large.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The newer revision is $1k, the old one isn't much cheaper. The newer one does have one major portability advantage in that a single HDMI cord can provide picture and power to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's where things get tricky. You'll need a computer, some sort of input device(s), and a method of generating power. There are a lot of ways to get creative with this, but again few of them are cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could go the laptop route, but it'd be unwieldy. I guess something like a raspberry pi or an intel compute stick might work in conjunction, but you'd likely be forced into having access to a power outlet so also not ideal. As far as input devices, there are a wide range of wireless input mechanisms available to you. These would be best selected after you figure out the computer portion of this portable system, so you know what kind of I/O options you're looking at. All of that stuff is better left for a different (and more specific) question here on HardwareRecs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To wrap all this up with a direct answer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is there a tablet/notebook, that runs a normal operating system (like windows or iOS, or Ubuntu), where you can open word processors, chrome, and so forth, which has an e-ink display (and is cheap)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No, there is not. Your best bet would be to build something yourself if you think yourself capable. You'll likely end up dropping well over $1,000 USD in the endeavor, because anything less than the e-ink monitor listed above will not function in a useful capacity due to limitations of the technology. It's not impossible, but it's a tall order. Best of luck." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7752" RevisionGUID="8a9d3462-2f78-4941-bb40-f66f6ab6134d" CreationDate="2017-07-18T22:23:58.297" UserId="6615" Text="You will hate to read that but I would strongly recommend you to buy a MacBook Air. 13&quot; for, you guessed it, $999.00.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here the specs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1.8GHz Processor &#xD;&#xA;    128GB Storage&#xD;&#xA;    1.8GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 processor&#xD;&#xA;    Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz&#xD;&#xA;    8GB 1600MHz LPDDR3 memory&#xD;&#xA;    128GB SSD storage1&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD Graphics 6000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a Mac to get my projects into the Apple ecosystem and I just KNEW I would never touch it again but within hours it became my main device for everything. Music production, photoshop, programming, a bit of video editing, creating websites, ... It's so nice not having to deal with Microsoft's flawed OS. You can install Windows on it (which wouldn't make too much sense) but you'll find most of the software for macOS as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Idk why metal casing is important to you but if my Mac can survive 3 years of being thrown around in a student's rucksack, you should be doing just fine with it. Battery life is also extraordinary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, they keep their price tags for ages.. you could easily sell it for more than 500 bucks in 4 years if you kept it in good condition.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like I said, you won't like this reply but please consider it. I regret having been so stubborn for so long, getting a Mac earlier in my life would've made it a lot easier." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24211" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="fde24d0f-1a95-4ea3-8c3a-e4e38462f141" CreationDate="2017-07-19T01:25:32.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7754" RevisionGUID="ed510103-c4c6-48ca-91d6-e7dbc0708488" CreationDate="2017-07-19T02:17:03.247" UserId="530" Text="# Monitor hood&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [monitor hood](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=monitor+hood&amp;t=osx&amp;ia=products) might be a better way to go than a matte screen. A hood is a simple less expensive solution. Graphics professionals always use a monitor hood, to go easier on their eyes and to perceive more accurate colors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And getting a hood frees you up to choose any kind of monitor you wish, based on other criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRauJ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7756" RevisionGUID="c6d948a2-f36a-4937-8c2f-243fed381343" CreationDate="2017-07-19T13:53:18.743" UserId="57" Text="I am looking for a KVM switch that can support multiple HDMI monitors with at least 1900 x 1200 resolution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This KVM will be connected to a docking station on a laptop running Ubuntu and desktop computer running Windows 10 Professional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the following things to be possible:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum of two monitors needs to be shared via the KVM. Support for a third monitor would be nice but is not required. Monitor input is HDMI for both the desktop and the laptop docking station.&#xD;&#xA; - The KVM needs to seamlessly support a USB keyboard input, USB mouse input and a USB Headphone/Microphone. &#xD;&#xA; - Support for more than two devices would be nice, but is not required. &#xD;&#xA; - The ability to switch between devices without physically touching the KVM would be nice. I'd like to just bury the KVM behind the monitors/under the desk. However, if soft key switches aren't possible on both Windows/Linux, I can live with positioning the KVM so that I can press the proper button.&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like the KVM to not interfere with gaming when under Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is flexible. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24219" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7756" RevisionGUID="c6d948a2-f36a-4937-8c2f-243fed381343" CreationDate="2017-07-19T13:53:18.743" UserId="57" Text="KVM that supports dual (or even triple) monitors, 3 USB inputs for two machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24220" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7756" RevisionGUID="c6d948a2-f36a-4937-8c2f-243fed381343" CreationDate="2017-07-19T13:53:18.743" UserId="57" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7757" RevisionGUID="a0e7ef0f-894a-43ec-b397-6a9c38ea4cb7" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:34:35.507" UserId="6089" Text="A quick shot at Google using &quot;multi-monitor kvm&quot; search found a company with the features you've noted. Good thing your budget is flexible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual monitor systems appear to be much more economical than triple (in progress, per one site) or quad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[KVM Switches Online][1] does a great job of categorizing the products available, specifically in this case, allowing you to pick HDMI for dual or quad monitors. [One of the switches][2] supports USB 3.0 while the other list as USB 2.0 only. The USB 3.0 unit is listed as a hub, but the image of the front shows 3 ports. The rear of the unit has 2 USB ports marked for keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![KVM front image][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![back of kvm][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.kvm-switches-online.com/dual-monitor-hdmi-kvm.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kvm-switches-online.com/sv340h.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGMjv.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9JtO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24222" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7757" RevisionGUID="00304d21-11cb-43ba-a33c-19995f81945f" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:41:38.757" UserId="6089" Comment="added 762 characters in body" Text="A quick shot at Google using &quot;multi-monitor kvm&quot; search found a company with the features you've noted. Good thing your budget is flexible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual monitor systems appear to be much more economical than triple (in progress, per one site) or quad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[KVM Switches Online][1] does a great job of categorizing the products available, specifically in this case, allowing you to pick HDMI for dual or quad monitors. [One of the switches][2] supports USB 3.0 while the other list as USB 2.0 only. The USB 3.0 unit is listed as a hub, but the image of the front shows 3 ports. The rear of the unit has 2 USB ports marked for keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![KVM front image][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![back of kvm][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should read your question before I hit the submit button. The device listed supports 4k video resolution as well as audio switching. The information leads me to believe that the switched-off unit gets muted, which is as it should be. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A reference is made in the PDF for the product of hot-key switching but no specifics are available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As is typical of these products, cables are purchased separately. It appears that these units do not require proprietary cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Q/A section of the site suggests to a user that if the above item is inappropriate, to purchase a [different (USB 2.0 version)][5] instead. It appears to be nearly the same cost, but with more USB ports on the panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.kvm-switches-online.com/dual-monitor-hdmi-kvm.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kvm-switches-online.com/sv340h.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGMjv.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9JtO.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.kvm-switches-online.com/uhdn-4p-duo.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7758" RevisionGUID="e9cdec80-3d69-4b73-a4ad-d67c30eb073f" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:42:29.297" UserId="6527" Text="You could possibly get one of those 3M privacy screen covers? Produces a matte display and adds some extra security.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LINK: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=3m+privacy+screen+pc&amp;rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB749GB749&amp;oq=3m+privacy+screen+pc&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0.8751j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#q=3m+privacy+screen+pc&amp;tbm=shop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7761" RevisionGUID="91be5165-0df8-4440-b9c2-e93695460d97" CreationDate="2017-07-19T17:49:14.223" UserId="6623" Text="I just moved from a MacBook to a Lenovo ThinkPad Carbon X1 (4th gen), and I purchased a refurb directly from Lenovo. 8GB RAM, i7, and smallish SSD. I swapped out the SSD for a 1TB nvme after purchasing the Carbon X1. Total price was around $1200. Very very happy with this machine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24239" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="0988ac05-a150-4d3e-a8b0-c523de063b9d" CreationDate="2017-07-20T05:34:46.103" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7062" RevisionGUID="fb206377-7008-48d3-ba64-8687aaeca36f" CreationDate="2017-07-20T07:06:59.587" UserId="5801" Comment="Spelling, Grammar" Text="I'm actually using the Razer Blackwidow 2016 Stealth Edition and I really love it , it's really smooth and reactive. Though my girlfriend likes it less than I do because she can't sleep when I play or type things because like a lot of mechanical keyboards it makes some noise, which is a negative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I found about the Cherry MX Red:&#xD;&#xA;[![cherry mx red][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I found for the Razer key switches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![razer switch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i'd say the yellow Razer switch is the closest thing to what you're searching for.&#xD;&#xA;I think it's a matter of taste more than anything so it would be best for you to go and try them out for yourself before you buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqjvB.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjPcA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24241" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7062" RevisionGUID="fb206377-7008-48d3-ba64-8687aaeca36f" CreationDate="2017-07-20T07:06:59.587" Comment="Proposed by 5801 approved by 5562 edit id of 617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24242" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7762" RevisionGUID="ce62b5c2-fa66-4026-b9ba-10d9a7b3b7f4" CreationDate="2017-07-20T10:45:30.843" UserId="4786" Text="As per my previous question([here][1]) on a motherboard compatiable with the Xeon E5640, I'm trying to build a cheap gaming rig that is capable of playing games like ETS2 and Fallout 3/NV on decent settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I seem to have come to yet another crossroad. I want to include a 4GB Graphics Card in the build, but do not have the cash to splash on a GTX 1050/TI or 1060. So I did some digging around on the online stores (Amazon, Ebay, Craigslist), and I uncovered these two cards by sheer luck, both are AMD/ATI Radeon Cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD 7670 4GB - [link][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD 7770 4GB - [link][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan on doing any mining with this rig in particular, and am dead set on making the best budget build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, which of the two cards is the better option? If none of the latter is a good option, please supply me with an answer if there is another card out there within my $100 Price Range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Please note that any other recommendations are preferred to be in new condition)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for viewing!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7743/lga1366-motherboard-compatiable-with-xeon-e5640-quad-core-cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Game-Graphics-Video-Card-For-AMD-HD7770-4GB-GDDR5-640sp-128Bit-PCI-E-3-/263090045557?hash=item3d41638275:g:5VkAAOSwbopZQfye&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATI-Radeon-HD-7670-4GB-DDR5-128Bit-PCI-Express-Video-Graphics-Card/222585441712?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44757%26meid%3D7e96ee107ec94af7bca8570197d9b3ab%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D263090045557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24243" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7762" RevisionGUID="ce62b5c2-fa66-4026-b9ba-10d9a7b3b7f4" CreationDate="2017-07-20T10:45:30.843" UserId="4786" Text="AMD Radeon HD 7670 4GB vs AMD Radeon HD 7770 4GB for Budget Gaming PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24244" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7762" RevisionGUID="ce62b5c2-fa66-4026-b9ba-10d9a7b3b7f4" CreationDate="2017-07-20T10:45:30.843" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24245" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="b1cc3516-ec6d-4b79-b06b-cfef6ba66749" CreationDate="2017-07-20T11:34:47.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7763" RevisionGUID="8544bc9a-344d-4c5f-bf06-5dda528ddcf8" CreationDate="2017-07-20T12:08:49.560" UserId="6554" Text="I have Asus x553MA laptop with quad core processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel® Bay Trail-M Quad Core Pentium N3540 Processor, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs here &#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/Laptops/X553MA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;can I replace it with with my old laptop Lenovo B450 dual core processor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;old laptop specs here &#xD;&#xA;http://mobilespecs.net/laptop/Lenovo/Lenovo_B450.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pentium 2100 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor Model:T4300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number of Cores:2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;L2 cache:1 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system bus:800 MHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24247" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7763" RevisionGUID="8544bc9a-344d-4c5f-bf06-5dda528ddcf8" CreationDate="2017-07-20T12:08:49.560" UserId="6554" Text="Can I change laptop 's quad core processor with dual core processor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24248" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7763" RevisionGUID="8544bc9a-344d-4c5f-bf06-5dda528ddcf8" CreationDate="2017-07-20T12:08:49.560" UserId="6554" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7765" RevisionGUID="1790a48d-86d1-49ee-81a9-4becf3ac3d08" CreationDate="2017-07-20T13:41:39.417" UserId="5933" Text="If the socket is the same, yes. But personally I wouldn't, multithreading really speeds things up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24256" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7767" RevisionGUID="b5c8aa79-33ba-4965-81f3-3f27a1ec5ebb" CreationDate="2017-07-20T15:22:33.393" UserId="6633" Text="If you can swing $110, I'd get the [RX 460][1]. It does have 2GB instead of 4GB, but higher memory bandwidth and clock speed. However, it is several tiers up the chart in terms of overall performance from what you've listed. Further, be careful ordering from China/HongKong. I've been burned before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [GPUboss][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you had pick between the two you've listed, I'd go with the 7770. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-radeon-rx-460,4707.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-RX-460-vs-Radeon-HD-7770&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8VbcG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUpPA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7768" RevisionGUID="b920d457-73e8-4e3a-97a3-c0555c285d17" CreationDate="2017-07-20T17:36:55.130" UserId="1115" Text="I am looking for a keyboard for programming (not gaming).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Detachable USB cable** (the same as smartphones use - USB A to Micro USB-B)&#xD;&#xA;* **Weight**: Has to be heavy. At least 800g. Heavier is better.&#xD;&#xA;* **Rubber pads**&#xD;&#xA;* **Format**: DE: QWERTZ&#xD;&#xA;  * Enter at the very right (or at least enough space between enter and anything more right so that I don't hit e.g. page up/down when I want to hit enter)&#xD;&#xA;* **USB Hub**: I would like to be able to plug in a USB stick / a mouse&#xD;&#xA;* **Backlight**: Should be possible to switch it on and off&#xD;&#xA;* **Not ergonomic**: I can't type on those.&#xD;&#xA;* **Not too flat**: I use the Thinkpad T460p and I like how the keyboard feels. I've tried some Mac Notebooks and they feel much too flat for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Mouse**: A small touchpad / trackpoint / trackball - if it is big, I don't want it.&#xD;&#xA;* **Bluetooth-Capability** (especially if I have a hardware-switch to turn it on / off)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Num block** (I slightly prefer not to have it)&#xD;&#xA;* **Media keys**: I'm not sure about this, but I don't see an advantage in comparison to creating custom commands (I'm a Ubuntu user)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7768" RevisionGUID="b920d457-73e8-4e3a-97a3-c0555c285d17" CreationDate="2017-07-20T17:36:55.130" UserId="1115" Text="Keyboard with detachable cable and usb hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7768" RevisionGUID="b920d457-73e8-4e3a-97a3-c0555c285d17" CreationDate="2017-07-20T17:36:55.130" UserId="1115" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7769" RevisionGUID="1ab375b3-f056-4832-beba-09426c8a9f21" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:17:26.813" UserId="6634" Text="Currently I am looking to buy SSD, my first one at any rate, and I have seen all kind of SSD (internal, vertical, M.2 to name a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am seriously considering this motherboard (huge upgrade for me going from AM2+ 1075T CPU to an AMD4 cpu) ASROCK Fatal1ty X370 pro gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Professional%20Gaming/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can see it has support for two M.2 sockets (1x M.2_1 and 1x M.2_2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for recommend on what kind of SSD to get and what is different between &quot;vertical, internal, and M.2&quot; SSD and will this motherboard support all type?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to re-use my 2 internal HD and 1 external HD over to this motherboard to save on cost of buying a large size SSD upfront." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24261" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7769" RevisionGUID="1ab375b3-f056-4832-beba-09426c8a9f21" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:17:26.813" UserId="6634" Text="ASROCK Fatal1ty X370 motherboard: recommend for SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24262" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7769" RevisionGUID="1ab375b3-f056-4832-beba-09426c8a9f21" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:17:26.813" UserId="6634" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7770" RevisionGUID="4f38ef96-1bbe-4858-898b-eb4da66f2cc1" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:24:52.570" UserId="6633" Text="Based on your response to my comment, I would highly recommend [Synergy][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use this product so much. I go back and forth between two monitors side by side with Ubuntu box on one, and Windows on the other. I also slide over and control my macbookpro that sits next to the three.  All with a single keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Much cheaper than a KVM and better functionality in my opinion...like copy/pasting across machines...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://symless.com/synergy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7771" RevisionGUID="2cfb0d59-1527-4f99-8a42-dad5da044f6e" CreationDate="2017-07-20T20:52:05.963" UserId="6637" Text="Nothing with more than 2 ports exists as far as I know. (2017-07)&#xD;&#xA;Even the chips to make it are limited to 2 ports as far as I can tell.&#xD;&#xA;Wanted this for a while myself for a group of pixels and other devices that are all type C.&#xD;&#xA;They are getting closer: Lifepowr has an indiegogo with 100W type c dual ports. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/lifepowr-a3-world-s-1st-usb-c-power-delivery-pack-battery-powerbank#/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24265" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7772" RevisionGUID="b06031f8-a881-4f9d-b8ad-051bae19e37b" CreationDate="2017-07-21T00:51:13.737" UserId="6638" Text="Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 16GB (or configurable) (1600+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD: 512GB SSD (or configurable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery: 8h+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Body: Aluminum&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size: 15&quot;-15.5&quot; display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;price: below equivalent Macbook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24266" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7772" RevisionGUID="b06031f8-a881-4f9d-b8ad-051bae19e37b" CreationDate="2017-07-21T00:51:13.737" UserId="6638" Text="Looking for a programming/development aluminum laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24267" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7772" RevisionGUID="b06031f8-a881-4f9d-b8ad-051bae19e37b" CreationDate="2017-07-21T00:51:13.737" UserId="6638" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24273" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="4d235685-98f2-4122-8b33-8c86f9ec03e9" CreationDate="2017-07-21T07:42:18.610" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7774" RevisionGUID="79a9d1e5-15d9-4623-b157-3e1fd843d637" CreationDate="2017-07-21T12:31:55.107" UserId="5473" Text="Im a big fan of HP these days.. Used to be a big Dell person but they tend to offer less bang for your buck these days. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your looking to save a few bucks my thoughts would be to scale down the Hard Drive to a 256GB.. That should provide enough space for your core environment. You can always buy cheap external hard drive (or 2nd Internal if possible) later on if it turns out you need to. My set up is to only have core software on the main HD and save projects externally. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, if that concept is ok with you, then here is one that I've had my eye on..&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADF5MK0383][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Truthfully, &#xD;&#xA;You could probably drop the RAM down to 8 GB and still have a pleasurable experience programming. &#xD;&#xA;[https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000D-01GH8][2]&#xD;&#xA;This one is configurable, I would take the I7 2.7GHz, non touch, Windows Pro, 256 GB SSD, 8GB RAM.. Thats a pretty good value for $869 and i think HP is doing a pretty good job these days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last thought, AMD is making great processors as of late. While their newest line of products hasn't quite hit the market yet (they will be awesome) they still make great products for less then Intel. Apple even released recently that they will be putting AMD in their highest end computers. So, with that said...&#xD;&#xA;Check this one out... This is one that I would buy today if I could. &#xD;&#xA;[http://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=10151&amp;urlLangId=&amp;catEntryId=1575152&amp;quantity=1][4]&#xD;&#xA;With these options checked...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro 64 - HP recommends Windows 10 Pro. EliteBook 745 G4 with AMD PRO A12-9800B (2.7 GHz, up to 3.6 GHz with Turbo Boost, 2 MB cache, 4 core) + AMD Radeon™ R7 Graphics (Y5Y46AV) ENERGY STAR Qualified Configuration 14&quot; diagonal HD (1366x768) Anti-Glare LED SVA enabled for Webcam slim Integrated HD 720p DualAryMic Webcam 8 GB (1x8GB) DDR4 1866 256 GB PCIe NVMe SSD Dual Point spill-resistant Keyboard No Near Field Communication (No NFC) Intel 7265 802.11 b/g/n/ac 2x2 Non vPro +Bluetooth 4.2 No HP Mobile Broadband No Fingerprint Reader 45 Watt Smart nPFC AC Adapter Power Cord - 1.0 Meters Destination Country Kit Localization 3 Cell 51 WHr Long Life Battery 1/1/0 limited warranty Elite Services Information Card&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADF5MK0383&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000D-01GH8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB49F1409&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=10151&amp;urlLangId=&amp;catEntryId=1575152&amp;quantity=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24276" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7772" RevisionGUID="241ae8b9-0bdc-4d7d-b404-30b14136fb27" CreationDate="2017-07-21T13:22:08.843" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7769" RevisionGUID="8c1b40b1-b6ac-49b2-abd6-b82c50248c22" CreationDate="2017-07-21T19:56:32.330" UserId="6634" Comment="Changed to narrow the question focus" Text="Currently I am looking to buy SSD, my first one at any rate, and I have seen all kind of SSD (internal, vertical, M.2 to name a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am seriously considering this motherboard (huge upgrade for me going from AM2+ 1075T CPU to an AMD4 cpu) ASROCK Fatal1ty X370 pro gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Professional%20Gaming/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can see it has support for two M.2 sockets (1x M.2_1 and 1x M.2_2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: How do I know what kind of SSD is compatible with this motherboard and what is different between &quot;vertical, internal, and M.2&quot; SSD and will this motherboard support all type?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24291" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7769" RevisionGUID="8c1b40b1-b6ac-49b2-abd6-b82c50248c22" CreationDate="2017-07-21T19:56:32.330" UserId="6634" Comment="Changed to narrow the question focus" Text="ASROCK Fatal1ty X370 motherboard: Compatibility SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24296" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7624" RevisionGUID="5a80ecf7-b8fa-4d8c-a1ed-95d82d3b3053" CreationDate="2017-07-22T05:38:07.560" UserId="5341" Comment="Of course this is a broad question.   How could aking about a general-purpose computer be considered &quot;too broad?&quot;  It needs expandibility and HDD reliability.  For anything I want to do with it." Text="I have been using a Raspberry Pi 3B as a workstation, connected to an HDMI monitor and keyboard and mouse.  I use it for a variety of tasks, as a general-purpose computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With accessories it was just over $60.  I already had the monitor, keyboard, and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works well as a workstation.  I can browse the web as long as I don't open too many tabs.  It only has 1 GB RAM, period.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bigger concern is the limited lifetime of using the SD card as primary storage.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I periodically save an image of the flash boot card onto my laptop hard drive so if the card fails I can always restore the image into a new one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it feels like I am living on borrowed time using Flash memory constantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This needs to become my primary Linux computer as I move away from Windows.  I need it to be able to do everything:  Internet, SSH, cron jobs, or anything else I might want to do on a general purpose computer.  With dependability  beyond the one I am using now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is:  Can someone recommend a low-cost Linux computer with a HDD and some RAM expandability?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raspberry-PI-3-Model-B-A1-2GHz-64-bit-quad-core-ARMv8-CPU-1GB-RAM/263030031820&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B007BJHEWK&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-sd-card-noobs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Premium-ABS-Case-with-Fan-for-Raspberry-Pi-3-2-Model-B-Pi-Model-B/231974597486" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="3586948b-ee94-4281-90f6-9fd01b45fc81" CreationDate="2017-07-22T07:59:33.173" UserId="6608" Text="I am looking for a USB power meter, i.e., a device that you can plug between a normal USB charger and a USB-powered device and that tells what is the **voltage** supplied by the charger and how much **current** is transferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I'd like to have a meter with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The meter has **USB type A** connectors (type A plug in one end, type A socket in the other end), so I can use it with any USB charger with a type A socket, and then just connect a suitable cable to charge devices with either USB micro-B or USB C connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The meter supports modern **USB power delivery** standards, it works fine with e.g. Qualcomm **Quick Charge** technology, it does not interfere with the voltage negotiation, and it is happy to accurately measure voltages **larger than 5V** and currents **larger than 2A**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Reasonable price tag (below 50 EUR).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the [reviews](http://www.androidpolice.com/2017/03/16/satechi-usb-type-c-power-meter-hands-on/), it seems that [Satechi type-C power meter](https://satechi.net/products/satechi-type-c-power-meter-for-new-macbook-macbook-pro-type-c-devices) works pretty well with modern high-power USB devices, but has type C plugs, so it is not that convenient if I want to use it with devices with micro-B connectors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="3586948b-ee94-4281-90f6-9fd01b45fc81" CreationDate="2017-07-22T07:59:33.173" UserId="6608" Text="USB power meter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="3586948b-ee94-4281-90f6-9fd01b45fc81" CreationDate="2017-07-22T07:59:33.173" UserId="6608" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7781" RevisionGUID="e3a01ef3-a3c6-4806-a3f2-19f652ab04e1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T11:35:49.043" UserId="6089" Text="Your objective may be easily accomplished, depending on the scope of &quot;larger than 5V&quot; and &quot;larger than 2A.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;[![volt amp meter usb][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The few units I've examined via a search using the terms &quot;USB volt amps meter&quot; have presented ranges up to 9V and current up to 3A. The lower priced devices appear to lower limits, which is understandable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was surprised to discover a meter which lists in the specifications a maximum of 10V and 10A. One would suspect that it would not be used to measure voltage and current from a computer USB port. This particular unit also supported single input, dual outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot attest to the &quot;modern USB power delivery standards&quot; as the ad copy I've found does not include that reference. The units I've located fit in your specified budget with room to spare. Three US dollars up to about twenty, international availability for most sources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSpJ9.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7782" RevisionGUID="6171ecb3-6fdd-47e1-8e8d-291b2594e728" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:45:50.803" UserId="6653" Text="I do not know if the question is well located, but I come to request a recommendation, I am having problems with getting a wireless router that meets my needs, in this case I look for one that can manage broadband through QOS or some method of Administration, but that has capacity for about 20 Devices. Now I have a DLINK Dir 822 and every 50 seconds the connection is dropped, I do not know if it's because of the warm atmosphere of the tropic at this time, but I want a new computer to solve this in my house. regards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7782" RevisionGUID="6171ecb3-6fdd-47e1-8e8d-291b2594e728" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:45:50.803" UserId="6653" Text="Wifi hardware to improvement network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7782" RevisionGUID="6171ecb3-6fdd-47e1-8e8d-291b2594e728" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:45:50.803" UserId="6653" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7783" RevisionGUID="1f03384a-da56-4b42-ae1c-e00a91f35024" CreationDate="2017-07-22T15:03:59.860" UserId="6568" Text="I have a 3' (1 meter) tall plastic gate around my yard. I would like to automatically close it with my Arduino or Raspberry Pi. Not by remote control - I just want it to detect that the gate is open, wait a few seconds, then close it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I figure I need 2 things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A sensor to let the Arduino know if the gate is open or closed&#xD;&#xA; 2. A mechanism whereby the Arduino can close the gate. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel good about my ability to find and implement #1, but I'm not at all sure about #2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The gates curently use this kind of latch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I figure to force-close it the mechanism would need a fair amount of force (I'm not sure how to measure or quantify this). OTOH to close it by first pulling back the latch, then pushing it closed and releasing latch seems like it would be much more complicated (?). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also open to some different sort of latch to work with the robotic closer. Maybe some magnetic latch would work, but it would have to be strong enough to keep my 25lb Sheltie dog from opening it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dczLh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24305" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7783" RevisionGUID="1f03384a-da56-4b42-ae1c-e00a91f35024" CreationDate="2017-07-22T15:03:59.860" UserId="6568" Text="Mechanism to close a small gate using Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24306" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7783" RevisionGUID="1f03384a-da56-4b42-ae1c-e00a91f35024" CreationDate="2017-07-22T15:03:59.860" UserId="6568" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7768" RevisionGUID="e808e053-0e49-4690-9fbc-5ac974b3f9e0" CreationDate="2017-07-22T17:36:45.687" UserId="1115" Comment="added 287 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a keyboard for programming (not gaming).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Detachable USB cable** (the same as smartphones use - USB A to Micro USB-B)&#xD;&#xA;* **Weight**: Has to be heavy. At least 800g. Heavier is better.&#xD;&#xA;* **Rubber pads**&#xD;&#xA;* **Format**: DE: QWERTZ&#xD;&#xA;  * Enter at the very right (or at least enough space between enter and anything more right so that I don't hit e.g. page up/down when I want to hit enter)&#xD;&#xA;* **USB Hub**: I would like to be able to plug in a USB stick / a mouse&#xD;&#xA;* **Backlight**: Should be possible to switch it on and off&#xD;&#xA;* **Not ergonomic**: I can't type on those.&#xD;&#xA;* **Not too flat**: I use the Thinkpad T460p and I like how the keyboard feels. I've tried some Mac Notebooks and they feel much too flat for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Mouse**: A small touchpad / trackpoint / trackball - if it is big, I don't want it.&#xD;&#xA;* **Bluetooth-Capability** (especially if I have a hardware-switch to turn it on / off)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Num block** (I slightly prefer not to have it)&#xD;&#xA;* **Media keys**: I'm not sure about this, but I don't see an advantage in comparison to creating custom commands (I'm a Ubuntu user)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Considered so far&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CODE keyboard ([88 Key](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-88-key-ger-mechanical-keyboard.html))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Detachable USB cable ✔&#xD;&#xA;* 907g ✔&#xD;&#xA;* Rubber pads ✔&#xD;&#xA;* QWERTZ format available ✔&#xD;&#xA;* USB Hub ✘&#xD;&#xA;* Backlight ✔&#xD;&#xA;* Not ergonomic ✔&#xD;&#xA;* Not too flat ✔&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse ✘&#xD;&#xA;* Nice design - judging from photos only, I guess the keys feel nice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24313" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="54f00e7b-36e5-4a8f-bbfb-6a7740072102" CreationDate="2017-07-22T19:40:31.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7786" RevisionGUID="593503a1-b756-4c6c-969e-d52293b4ef83" CreationDate="2017-07-23T07:37:43.913" UserId="6656" Text="I have a DELL leap top Inspiron 15 3000 Series that I bought to years ago. &#xD;&#xA;The RAM memory is 8 GB, The processor model is intel(R)core(TM) iS-4210u cpu@ 1.706GHz 1.60 Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;Me main use of this PC is for map making with [QGIS][1] software. Some of maps have a lot of details and I need to make them with 1300 dpi. It  can take up to ten mints to make this map and I need to close another software. &#xD;&#xA;I want me PC to work faster and I was wandering what is the best way: to upgrade or to buy a new one?&#xD;&#xA;The maps take a lot of memory space so I was thinking to upgrade to 1,000 GB SSD drive, to upgrade me processor and to ask the technicians to clean the hardware form dust and replace the fan into a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://qgis.org/en/site/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24318" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7786" RevisionGUID="593503a1-b756-4c6c-969e-d52293b4ef83" CreationDate="2017-07-23T07:37:43.913" UserId="6656" Text="I have a DELL leap top from 2015: should I buy a new one or upgrade?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24319" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7786" RevisionGUID="593503a1-b756-4c6c-969e-d52293b4ef83" CreationDate="2017-07-23T07:37:43.913" UserId="6656" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24323" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="a836deb9-03cc-4250-8001-79530b628f78" CreationDate="2017-07-23T10:56:08.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24330" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7763" RevisionGUID="f83a2314-d411-42e6-9fff-a42cae1e9704" CreationDate="2017-07-23T15:43:12.020" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24331" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="7f948cea-ffc6-44a0-ac5c-4f19bb7d599d" CreationDate="2017-07-23T22:03:08.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24332" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="99d6790e-a342-4da4-aef8-02d6bf0104a9" CreationDate="2017-07-23T23:03:08.673" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24359" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7794" RevisionGUID="c1099bbd-5685-4d93-8fc0-4661b59196c5" CreationDate="2017-07-25T07:25:57.660" UserId="6671" Text="I'd like to have a Laptop that can do some QC calculations which is able to even do a little heavier stuff.&#xA;&#xA;Such calculations need a fast CPU, don't use hyperthreading, have either a high memory demand or a high hard drive I/O.&#xA;&#xA;So for the last point, SSDs are not the way to go, right? Probably some mixed system with SSD for system and HDD for the writing stuff.&#xA;&#xA;Let's ignore the price - are there laptops that can deal with such specifications?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24360" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7794" RevisionGUID="c1099bbd-5685-4d93-8fc0-4661b59196c5" CreationDate="2017-07-25T07:25:57.660" UserId="6671" Text="Quantum Chemistry Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24361" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7794" RevisionGUID="c1099bbd-5685-4d93-8fc0-4661b59196c5" CreationDate="2017-07-25T07:25:57.660" UserId="6671" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7762" RevisionGUID="3f830db1-0310-4276-9287-d7c7975040ee" CreationDate="2017-07-25T07:44:12.433" UserId="4786" Comment="Added Two Other Cards for comparision. Have also over looked my budget of $100 for the card, and have now increased said budget to $150" Text="As per my previous question([here][1]) on a motherboard compatiable with the Xeon E5640, I'm trying to build a cheap gaming rig that is capable of playing games like ETS2 and Fallout 3/NV on decent settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I seem to have come to yet another crossroad. I want to include a 4GB Graphics Card in the build, but do not have the cash to splash on a GTX 1050/TI or 1060. So I did some digging around on the online stores (Amazon, Ebay, Craigslist), and I uncovered these two cards by sheer luck, both are AMD/ATI Radeon Cards, sans the one Nvidia Card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD 7670 4GB - [link][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HD 7770 4GB - [link][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX 650 4GB - [link][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R7 350 4GB - [link][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't plan on doing any mining with this rig in particular, and am dead set on making the best budget build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, which of the two cards is the better option? If none of the latter is a good option, please supply me with an answer if there is another card out there within my $100 Price Range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Please note that any other recommendations are preferred to be in new condition)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for viewing!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7743/lga1366-motherboard-compatiable-with-xeon-e5640-quad-core-cpu&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Game-Graphics-Video-Card-For-AMD-HD7770-4GB-GDDR5-640sp-128Bit-PCI-E-3-/263090045557?hash=item3d41638275:g:5VkAAOSwbopZQfye&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATI-Radeon-HD-7670-4GB-DDR5-128Bit-PCI-Express-Video-Graphics-Card/222585441712?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44757%26meid%3D7e96ee107ec94af7bca8570197d9b3ab%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D263090045557&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Point-of-View-GeForce-GTX650-4GB-/222346060432?hash=item33c4dba290:g:eL8AAOSw8w1X-~El&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Gaming-Graphics-Video-Card-for-AMD-Radeon-R7-350-4GB-GDDR5-128bit-512SP-/263105119511?hash=item3d42498517:g:ITQAAOSw44BYXBFQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24363" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7762" RevisionGUID="3f830db1-0310-4276-9287-d7c7975040ee" CreationDate="2017-07-25T07:44:12.433" UserId="4786" Comment="Added Two Other Cards for comparision. Have also over looked my budget of $100 for the card, and have now increased said budget to $150" Text="AMD Radeon HD 7670 4GB vs AMD Radeon HD 7770 4GB vs AMD Radeon R7 350 4GB vs Nvidia GTX 650 4GB for Budget Gaming PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24373" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7782" RevisionGUID="21ac78ce-734e-4816-bd08-6187fc231897" CreationDate="2017-07-25T18:54:08.550" UserId="6653" Comment="59" />
  <row Id="24374" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="2451cebb-0def-48cb-9770-3c1f879a61b8" CreationDate="2017-07-25T19:38:09.953" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24375" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="44daa2ad-62ef-4552-afb9-ab734061c3d1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T20:38:09.677" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24379" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="a7b4c573-ee02-44e7-9a4a-579097442cba" CreationDate="2017-07-25T22:38:23.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="9447e03b-4963-4e62-8077-f7e61f17c104" CreationDate="2017-07-26T05:39:38.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24383" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="f6d51da9-62c3-4ae1-8a0f-1d8326b37d8e" CreationDate="2017-07-26T11:48:41.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7800" RevisionGUID="d5511711-968d-41cd-9920-778c14ca9bd1" CreationDate="2017-07-26T11:52:51.190" UserId="220" Text="The thing you you are looking for is called a [Linear Actuator http://amzn.to/2uWRIjV][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on the strength of linear actuator you get, you might not even need a latch. &#xD;&#xA;You can have the Arduino power the linear actuator until it senses the door fully closed or open. When it is not powered it will hold its position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2uWRIjV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24398" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="75b891cd-a8e7-4927-9dc9-9e1b68b4aeac" CreationDate="2017-07-26T17:45:44.127" UserId="6697" Text="I have a bluetooth keyboard which I would like to use on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;My laptop runs Linux and I have had it working in the past but it wasn't stable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm now looking for a bluetooth adapter with a USB port which will connect to my keyboard over bluetooth and acts as a standard HID device on the USB port of my Linux laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have another (creative) solution that might do the job I would love to hear that as well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24399" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="75b891cd-a8e7-4927-9dc9-9e1b68b4aeac" CreationDate="2017-07-26T17:45:44.127" UserId="6697" Text="Bluetooth HID device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24400" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="75b891cd-a8e7-4927-9dc9-9e1b68b4aeac" CreationDate="2017-07-26T17:45:44.127" UserId="6697" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24403" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="8ec3c42d-b978-47eb-9938-3eddf867cf22" CreationDate="2017-07-26T18:25:12.443" UserId="6697" Comment="deleted 16 characters in body" Text="I have a bluetooth keyboard which I would like to use on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;My laptop runs Linux and I have had it working in the past but it wasn't stable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm now looking for a bluetooth adapter which will connect to my keyboard over bluetooth and acts as a standard HID device on the USB port of my Linux laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have another (creative) solution that might do the job I would love to hear that as well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24423" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="db616961-99b3-4302-a7cb-7f1574077a52" CreationDate="2017-07-27T01:06:55.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24424" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="a945df14-6536-4947-9834-56575ec08174" CreationDate="2017-07-27T02:07:55.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24427" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="7a50207f-7bb4-4bb0-a56e-a604b33f66f4" CreationDate="2017-07-27T06:28:40.127" UserId="6701" Text="I'm planning to broadcast audio to abut 10 regular headphones spread across a small room. We'll be using regular PC headphones and I can't splice/rewire em in parallel line that connects back to a laptop audio jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop will be a very low power, netbook, or chromebook perhaps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I reckon the laptop's audio wont be powerful enough to drive sound to all those headphones (I could be wrong). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what would i need to achieve this? is there a small/cheapo amp for laptops? or any amp would do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking forward to some advises :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24428" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="7a50207f-7bb4-4bb0-a56e-a604b33f66f4" CreationDate="2017-07-27T06:28:40.127" UserId="6701" Text="Playing audio on many headphones from a single laptop - need amp?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24429" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="7a50207f-7bb4-4bb0-a56e-a604b33f66f4" CreationDate="2017-07-27T06:28:40.127" UserId="6701" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24430" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="fbcd558b-ab19-42ae-b837-fdc8e854d160" CreationDate="2017-07-27T07:03:53.447" UserId="6701" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm planning to broadcast audio to abut 10 regular headphones spread across a small room. We'll be using regular PC headphones and I can splice/rewire em in parallel line that connects back to a laptop audio jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop will be a very low power, netbook, or chromebook perhaps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I reckon the laptop's audio wont be powerful enough to drive sound to all those headphones (I could be wrong). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what would i need to achieve this? is there a small/cheapo amp for laptops? or any amp would do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking forward to some advises :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7814" RevisionGUID="98c54532-cf1f-40be-b403-d41b9e3344f5" CreationDate="2017-07-27T10:52:43.810" UserId="1329" Text="There are cheap USB audio dongles, you could try to hook up as many as you need and configure the audio output of your operating system accordingly. Linux with PulseAudio (recommended), JACK or probably plain ALSA (I doubt that though) should be able to do such kind of broadcast, but the USB bus will be a limitation at some point. Some other problems of USB audio may also occur.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could look for audio recording interfaces that usually come with more headphone outputs, usually they also have monitoring outputs for low latency. My Behringer FCA610 as 2 of these outputs. You could feed 2 headphones through the monitoring ports and another 3 stereo devices through the connectors on the back without any complicated wiring, but 2 headphones on every output should be possible, not recommended though. There is an FCA1616 and many other affordable recording interfaces with more ports that would fit this need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course there are also HiFi DAC/Amps that deliver more power to demanding headphones. I also have 2 of these (mobile and desktop). Mixing a great variety of different loads to feed them with high(er) power without any calculation, just hoping every load will work ideally has a high risk of getting mixed results or damaging some component.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you didn't mention any specific usecase, you could also utilize Bluetooth to connect at [least][1] one more device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/61369/70638" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7815" RevisionGUID="c2959ebc-6119-4591-a26b-bfd617519517" CreationDate="2017-07-27T12:35:57.270" UserId="220" Text="10 &quot;normal&quot; headphones in parallel would look like a short circuit to an amp or laptop output, so no, I do not expect that to work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if it did work, the sound levels would still likely be too low. And all the headphones would need to be impedance matched or the lower impedance ones would be much louder than the others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically every headphone needs an amp. And the laptop can feed the input for those amps in parallel. This can work because the amps have a much higher impedance than those &quot;normal&quot; headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be cheaper to use a few of these [Headphone amplifiers designed to feed multiple headphones like this http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7815" RevisionGUID="c7708295-5c9a-48d4-ba00-fa2a38b5f1ff" CreationDate="2017-07-27T12:47:24.530" UserId="220" Comment="added 103 characters in body" Text="10 &quot;normal&quot; headphones in parallel would look like a short circuit to an amp or laptop output, so no, I do not expect that to work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The better solution would be every headphone gets an amp. And the laptop can feed the input for those amps in parallel. This can work because the amps have a much higher impedance than those &quot;normal&quot; headphones, it wont look like a short circuit to the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only way to do this with one amp powering 10 headphones is if all your headphones have the same impedance, and all of them are 40+ ohms of impedance. And you will need a speaker amp for this, not just a normal headphone amp.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be cheaper to just use a few of these [Headphone amplifiers designed to feed multiple headphones like this http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW][1] &#xD;&#xA;and connect 3 of those amps in parallel to your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7815" RevisionGUID="b64e6048-4b1f-4049-9ba1-36905072820a" CreationDate="2017-07-27T14:00:25.650" UserId="220" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="10 &quot;normal&quot; headphones in parallel would look like a short circuit to an amp or laptop output, so no, I do not expect that to work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The better solution would be every headphone gets an amp. And the laptop can feed the input for those amps in parallel. This can work because the amps have a much higher impedance than those &quot;normal&quot; headphones, it wont look like a short circuit to the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only way to do one amp powering 10 headphones in parallel is if all your headphones have the same impedance, and all of them are 40+ ohms of impedance. And you will need a speaker amp for this, not just a normal headphone amp.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be cheaper to just use a few of these [Headphone amplifiers designed to feed multiple headphones like this http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW][1] &#xD;&#xA;and connect 3 of those amps in parallel to your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2uB2vPW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24440" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="4849d29d-9aa5-4023-a7a9-d531bf3d190e" CreationDate="2017-07-27T17:18:34.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="96179f1e-6e8e-4365-9c2f-94292c575b7a" CreationDate="2017-07-27T18:14:55.763" UserId="6523" Text="I have been on something of a quest for something which I am finding to be a very elusive piece of equipment: a Bluetooth headset that works well with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Windows 10 PC has an onboard Bluetooth module that uses drivers from Windows Update. Windows 7 did not have these drivers, so while running Windows 7, I had a whole different set of issues with external drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What does *work well* mean?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pairs to the computer as an audio and recording device (i.e. both audio input and output; usually will say something like &quot;Connected to voice&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Maintains connection even while charging&#xD;&#xA; - Charges via MicroUSB&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require any drivers outside of Windows Update to function properly (i.e. meet the rest of these conditions)&#xD;&#xA; - Does not cause Audio service crashes or system crashes&#xD;&#xA;   - You would be surprised how many headsets this requirement has disqualified; I find that trying to make a call via Google Hangouts, using the Firefox plugin (on Firefox ESR) causes problems like this for no small number of headsets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, no headset manufacturer advertises anything about these features, except occasionally the charging interface, so essentially, I have to purchase a batch of headsets, and then return them all because they all fail at least one of these conditions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some headsets I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at connecting as voice device:&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics M95&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at maintaining connections while charging:&#xD;&#xA;   - Motorola Boom2&#xD;&#xA;   - Jabra Stealth&#xD;&#xA;   - Quikcell Mod B&#xD;&#xA;   - MPow Shield&#xD;&#xA;   - Sony Mono BT Headset (I don't know if it had a more descriptive name)&#xD;&#xA; - Used proprietary charger&#xD;&#xA;   - Jawbone&#xD;&#xA;   - LifeCharge B30&#xD;&#xA; - Crashed some aspect of PC&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics Explorer 500&#xD;&#xA;     - Would crash the audio service whenever I used Google Hangouts, which would lead to no audio until I restarted and would cause a system crash on shutdown&#xD;&#xA;   - Samsung HM1000&#xD;&#xA;     - I am currently using this one, which performs the best, but seems to cause BSOD crashes about once or twice per week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to target headsets $50 or under, and I would think that even a cheap headset could satisfy these requirements, but if none exist at that price point, I would want to know if any Bluetooth headset works properly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24442" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="96179f1e-6e8e-4365-9c2f-94292c575b7a" CreationDate="2017-07-27T18:14:55.763" UserId="6523" Text="Bluetooth Headset that works well with Windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24443" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="96179f1e-6e8e-4365-9c2f-94292c575b7a" CreationDate="2017-07-27T18:14:55.763" UserId="6523" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7820" RevisionGUID="509d43b8-0f05-4744-8213-1b44a9d7ffc0" CreationDate="2017-07-27T22:01:34.977" UserId="725" Text="I am looking for a camcorder to film ballroom dance events. This means it has to deal well with quickly moving subjects in low, artificially colored light. Full HD resolution should suffice. A microphone input would be a useful addition, so that music can be recorded directly from the sound system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to keep the price point around 500 € at max, but recommendations from different price ranges are also appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7820" RevisionGUID="509d43b8-0f05-4744-8213-1b44a9d7ffc0" CreationDate="2017-07-27T22:01:34.977" UserId="725" Text="Camcorder for filming ballrom dance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7820" RevisionGUID="509d43b8-0f05-4744-8213-1b44a9d7ffc0" CreationDate="2017-07-27T22:01:34.977" UserId="725" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24469" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7826" RevisionGUID="85e5ce62-7977-4c82-aa38-ffef0671458c" CreationDate="2017-07-28T20:17:19.667" UserId="273" Text="First, I'll post the solution which may not directly fit your needs, but could at least be worth a consideration and will probably deliver significantly higher performance if you are willing to accept a few work-arounds which are:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;You'll essentially be getting a highly portable desktop PC, so you need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A monitor wherever you go&#xD;&#xA; - A mouse&#xD;&#xA; - A keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are actually in a situation where you can have these (easily?) available where you go (and note that there are modern variants of all of these designed for high mobility), I can recommend (even though I did not actually test / own one):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[The Titan X179 Workstation][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why does it fit your needs?&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**Because it runs workstation / server-grade equipment in a very compact case!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Just about any [Intel Xeon E5 v4][2] (Codename: Broadwell-EP), [up to 22 physical cores][3], will just about blow everything else mobile out of the window&#xD;&#xA; - 16, 32, 64 or 128 GB [Error-Checking and Correcting Memory][4] (a Xeon-only feature that you may not need)&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 6TB of Samsung Pro-branded SSD storage (2x SATA, 1x M.2), also note that the M.2 SSD has a [1.2PBW / 5yr warranty policy][5] (that is they guarantee that it will work for 5 years or 1.2 _Peta_-bytes written, whichever happens first) and the SATA SSD has a at least a [300TBW / 10yr warranty policy][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.titancomputers.com/Titan-X179-Intel-Xeon-E5-V4-Broadwell-EP-Ultra-p/x179.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/series/91287/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-v4-Family&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/91317/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2699-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-pro-m-2-2tb-mz-v6p2t0bw/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/warranty/MZ-7KE2T0BW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7827" RevisionGUID="c2809de8-5e81-4910-9ed8-c5dcf9349eaa" CreationDate="2017-07-28T20:26:51.447" UserId="273" Text="Now for the more traditional approach: You want a CPU-heavy _actual_ laptop with a decent amount of fast storage and quite a bit of RAM. So the obvious solution is to look for the beefiest CPU that can be crammed into a laptop and go from there. Normally people would just look for laptop CPUs here, but because Gamers being Gamers, _there are laptops that use Desktop CPUs_ which of course are much better performance-wise due to higher peak clocks (but of course cooling and power consumption tend to make such laptops hot, loud and with short battery lifetime).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my recommendation will be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[The Origin PC EON17-X][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which features (up to)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An Intel Core i7-7700K (Codename: Kaby Lake), with 4 physical cores and remarkably high clock rates (meaning these cores will be _very_ fast and much faster individually [than the Xeon cores from my other answer][2]) and notably, this is a desktop CPU, so you should a) be able to actually overclock it if you so want and b) it is allowed to produce much more heat and thus stay at higher clocks for longer.&#xD;&#xA; - 64 GB of (non-ECC) RAM &#xD;&#xA; - If I'm parsing the configuration page right, up to _four_ 2TB Samsung Pro SSDs (2x M.2 and 2x SATA), [comments from my other answer apply.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.originpc.com/gaming/laptops/eon17-x/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7826/273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7826" RevisionGUID="445407fe-b687-4756-9a6d-220fb6d8c2e6" CreationDate="2017-07-28T20:28:16.510" UserId="273" Comment="added 258 characters in body" Text="First, I'll post the solution which may not directly fit your needs, but could at least be worth a consideration and will probably deliver significantly higher performance if you are willing to accept a few work-arounds which are:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;You'll essentially be getting a highly portable desktop PC, so you need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A monitor wherever you go&#xD;&#xA; - A mouse&#xD;&#xA; - A keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are actually in a situation where you can have these (easily?) available where you go (and note that there are modern variants of all of these designed for high mobility), I can recommend (even though I did not actually test / own one):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[The Titan X179 Workstation][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why does it fit your needs?&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**Because it runs workstation / server-grade equipment in a very compact case!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Just about any [Intel Xeon E5 v4][2] (Codename: Broadwell-EP), [up to 22 physical cores][3], will just about blow everything else mobile out of the window (you may want to know that the Xeon is fastering than everything else because of _parallelism_, the actual cores have quite a low base-clock and architecturally are also 2 generations behind as of now, which amounts to a few per cent performance difference)&#xD;&#xA; - 16, 32, 64 or 128 GB [Error-Checking and Correcting Memory][4] (a Xeon-only feature that you may not need)&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 6TB of Samsung Pro-branded SSD storage (2x SATA, 1x M.2), also note that the M.2 SSD has a [1.2PBW / 5yr warranty policy][5] (that is they guarantee that it will work for 5 years or 1.2 _Peta_-bytes written, whichever happens first) and the SATA SSD has a at least a [300TBW / 10yr warranty policy][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.titancomputers.com/Titan-X179-Intel-Xeon-E5-V4-Broadwell-EP-Ultra-p/x179.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/series/91287/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-v4-Family&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/91317/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2699-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-pro-m-2-2tb-mz-v6p2t0bw/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/warranty/MZ-7KE2T0BW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24482" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6997" RevisionGUID="cce8c011-f143-414c-a585-92cfd411fdb6" CreationDate="2017-07-29T21:55:53.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7831" RevisionGUID="79a5cbf2-1b0e-40cb-9042-b947e8499111" CreationDate="2017-07-30T01:38:47.843" UserId="6720" Text="0. Those 7XXX series GPUs are very very old. Don't get them. They are not as efficient, as powerful and has less compelling feature-set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. For $100 max, you can sometimes get the Radeon RX 460 2/4GB (got mine new for $80 from Amazon) or a GTX 1050 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Current prices are a little high - not sure why, but some radeons cost even more than their MSRPs. That wasn't the case few months ago. So, I would suggest waiting if you find nothing good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Just checked - newegg sells the rx 460 (2GB) for $90 on their ebay site&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAPPHIRE-Radeon-RX-460-DirectX-12-100409-2GOC-2L-2GB-128-Bit-GDDR5-PCI-Express-3-/302207375605?hash=item465cf698f5:g:brEAAOSw-0xYe4fX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These prices come from time to time. Just be patient" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24487" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="4bc033e9-5f48-4817-9358-1d876d50db59" CreationDate="2017-07-30T11:11:42.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7826" RevisionGUID="8300cb84-3dae-41ed-8544-ba396c4503ae" CreationDate="2017-07-30T21:03:01.273" UserId="476" Comment="made the first sentence make more sense." Text="First, I'll post the solution which may not directly fit your needs, but could at least be worth a consideration and will probably deliver significantly higher performance, however&#xD;&#xA;you'll essentially be getting a highly portable desktop PC, so you need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A monitor wherever you go&#xD;&#xA; - A mouse&#xD;&#xA; - A keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are actually in a situation where you can have these (easily?) available where you go (and note that there are modern variants of all of these designed for high mobility), I can recommend (even though I did not actually test / own one):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##[The Titan X179 Workstation][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why does it fit your needs?&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**Because it runs workstation / server-grade equipment in a very compact case!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Up to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Just about any [Intel Xeon E5 v4][2] (Codename: Broadwell-EP), [up to 22 physical cores][3], will just about blow everything else mobile out of the window (you may want to know that the Xeon is fastering than everything else because of _parallelism_, the actual cores have quite a low base-clock and architecturally are also 2 generations behind as of now, which amounts to a few per cent performance difference)&#xD;&#xA; - 16, 32, 64 or 128 GB [Error-Checking and Correcting Memory][4] (a Xeon-only feature that you may not need)&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 6TB of Samsung Pro-branded SSD storage (2x SATA, 1x M.2), also note that the M.2 SSD has a [1.2PBW / 5yr warranty policy][5] (that is they guarantee that it will work for 5 years or 1.2 _Peta_-bytes written, whichever happens first) and the SATA SSD has a at least a [300TBW / 10yr warranty policy][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.titancomputers.com/Titan-X179-Intel-Xeon-E5-V4-Broadwell-EP-Ultra-p/x179.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/series/91287/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-v4-Family&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/91317/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2699-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-pro-m-2-2tb-mz-v6p2t0bw/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/warranty/MZ-7KE2T0BW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7835" RevisionGUID="7da0193b-801a-4a8f-9688-b074c14a0b4f" CreationDate="2017-07-31T03:32:00.807" UserId="6722" Text="My question is just like [this one][1], except for bigger monitor size and smaller requirements. My monitors are 30'' HP LP3065 (old but huge) and the recommended VIVO Triple LCD Monitor Desk Mount works up to 24''.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main requirement is stability. While I'd strongly prefer a desk mount, a wall mount might be an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering using all three monitors rotated, as otherwise, their total width would be needlessly big while I could use some more vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/402" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24504" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7835" RevisionGUID="7da0193b-801a-4a8f-9688-b074c14a0b4f" CreationDate="2017-07-31T03:32:00.807" UserId="6722" Text="Monitor stand that supports 3 30'' monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24505" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7835" RevisionGUID="7da0193b-801a-4a8f-9688-b074c14a0b4f" CreationDate="2017-07-31T03:32:00.807" UserId="6722" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7837" RevisionGUID="cd659578-a7a5-4322-9bf9-6e56bee592f4" CreationDate="2017-07-31T12:11:00.777" UserId="6079" Text="I've been searching for a fast internal wireless adapter for my desktop, but it seems we still have these issues with wireless networking on Linux. It should be as fast as possible and I'm not on a budget. But it absolutely has to have good drivers for Linux, preferably in kernel. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7837" RevisionGUID="cd659578-a7a5-4322-9bf9-6e56bee592f4" CreationDate="2017-07-31T12:11:00.777" UserId="6079" Text="Linux Wireless 802.11ac PCIe adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7837" RevisionGUID="cd659578-a7a5-4322-9bf9-6e56bee592f4" CreationDate="2017-07-31T12:11:00.777" UserId="6079" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24517" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="61156587-a068-430c-a43d-9b240d4c0b21" CreationDate="2017-07-31T17:21:55.810" UserId="6523" Comment="Added tag" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24524" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7840" RevisionGUID="3dcdeda6-b578-48c5-bd08-a07067c36708" CreationDate="2017-07-31T20:14:48.737" UserId="6728" Text="I am seeking a tablet or smart note taking pad that I can use to integrate with a database for a medical centre.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is basically digitalising a doctor's office.&#xD;&#xA; When the doctor interviews the patients, he would like to have a tablet or smart interface with note taking options and drawing features digitally. And have the outcomes saved unto a database. It directly involves software as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I would like to know if there are any dedicated products that have already been established for this purpose? I have been look at WACOM products.. but still looing for recommendations. Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24525" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7840" RevisionGUID="3dcdeda6-b578-48c5-bd08-a07067c36708" CreationDate="2017-07-31T20:14:48.737" UserId="6728" Text="Need a tablet or smart note pad interface for medical physician" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24526" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7840" RevisionGUID="3dcdeda6-b578-48c5-bd08-a07067c36708" CreationDate="2017-07-31T20:14:48.737" UserId="6728" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7841" RevisionGUID="472e3ead-f921-427d-b733-7846b8d9f1c2" CreationDate="2017-08-01T09:33:37.913" UserId="6730" Text="I'm looking at getting a third monitor for my PC. I have an R9 380 and i'm currently using both DVI outputs. According to the AMD EyeFinity FAQ:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;1: The first two monitors can connect to the graphics card with any display output on your product: HDMI, VGA, DVI or DisplayPort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;2:The third (or greater) display must be connected to the graphics card via DisplayPort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;3: If your monitor does not have a DisplayPort connection, **you will need an inexpensive active DisplayPort adapter** for it. DVI to DP adapters can be had for less than $30 USD.&#xD;&#xA;Every family of GPUs supports a different maximum number of displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor I have chosen has DVI input, and I have been given a DP to DVI adapter, but I don't know if it's active or passive. The reason this matters is because i've read that EyeFinity will only support it if it is using an active adapter, and then something about having only two streams??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The adapter i have is Dell 0KKMYD** and i can't find out anywhere whether it's active or passive. I can't see anything on the adapter itself without opening the packet and I don't want to do that just yet in case I have to return it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24529" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7841" RevisionGUID="472e3ead-f921-427d-b733-7846b8d9f1c2" CreationDate="2017-08-01T09:33:37.913" UserId="6730" Text="Is this DP -&gt; DVI adapter active or passive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24530" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7841" RevisionGUID="472e3ead-f921-427d-b733-7846b8d9f1c2" CreationDate="2017-08-01T09:33:37.913" UserId="6730" Text="&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7842" RevisionGUID="22bf0489-54a0-490b-90ec-769f43cda4d7" CreationDate="2017-08-01T10:12:35.587" UserId="6527" Text="A Surface Pro may be good. I cant say I've ever used one myself but they're full Windows 10 so I guess it'd be easier to integrate? Only issue if they're a tad expensive..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7840" RevisionGUID="97d724c0-0128-48f9-8e5d-435ec4c754fd" CreationDate="2017-08-01T13:10:20.463" UserId="6728" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am seeking a tablet or smart note taking pad that I can use to integrate with a database for a medical centre.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is basically digitalising a doctor's office.&#xD;&#xA; When the doctor interviews the patients, he would like to have a tablet or smart interface with note taking options and drawing features digitally. And have the outcomes saved unto a database. It directly involves software as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I would like to know if there are any dedicated products that have already been established for this purpose? I have taken a look at WACOM products.. but additional recommendations are welcomed.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7844" RevisionGUID="1854e9f7-9d4d-49c9-87f2-bc7d8474d798" CreationDate="2017-08-01T14:41:05.640" UserId="5488" Text="According to UserBenchmark, the relative scores of each GPU are as follows (assuming 100% is the performance of the GTX 1070):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HD 7670 - 7%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HD 7770 - 18%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 650 - 11%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R7 360 - 25%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1050 - 34%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1050Ti - 38%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R7 350 does not appear on UserBenchmark so I used the performance of the RX 360 instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this helps you make a more informed decision." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7845" RevisionGUID="88333689-9d28-4954-a85a-c7d8fafb242a" CreationDate="2017-08-01T14:47:15.030" UserId="5488" Text="According to [this page](https://ark.intel.com/products/88184/Intel-Core-i5-6500-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz) on Intel's ARK, the integrated graphics card inside your processor already supports 4K video at 24fps over HDMI or 4K video at 60fps over DisplayPort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;tl;dr - You don't need to buy a graphics card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24538" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="3881" RevisionGUID="f176b567-bdfd-4908-ab5b-9c25007476d8" CreationDate="2017-08-01T14:52:55.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7846" RevisionGUID="fecaeec2-b152-4809-9b3e-6959dccc3c5c" CreationDate="2017-08-01T14:55:45.200" UserId="5488" Text="I bought the Plantronics GameCom 788 as my first headset and every other headset I've tried after just felt and sounded terrible. It's the best audio-related purchase I ever made besides my studio monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can never go back to any other headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound quality is great, and the microphone quality is honestly astounding. I have a broadcast quality microphone and there is almost zero noticeable difference between them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the Dolby drivers that come with it just make everything sound so much better. I can't deal with it being off any more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7847" RevisionGUID="80363600-47a5-4e94-9f73-754ff5dbc2f3" CreationDate="2017-08-01T15:36:35.573" UserId="6475" Text="I cannot say for sure whether your adapter is an active one or not, but my strong assertion is that it is not. My reasoning here is that feature is usually a selling point and they typically are priced higher as well. You can try it but I doubt it will work properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I did verify that you need an active adapter to do what you're trying to do with Eyefinity, and I was able to find this: &quot;Cable Matters Gold Plated Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter - Eyefinity Compatible&quot;. That particular one is on sale on Amazon at the moment, but you can definitely look around for other products if you need other features (cord length, whatever else) or want to hunt for a better deal. Just make sure the words active adapter&quot; are clearly spelled out on the product page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for this part:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The reason this matters is because i've read that EyeFinity will only support it if it is using an active adapter, and then something about having only two streams??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think what you're talking about doing here is called [Multi-Stream Transport](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multi-Stream_Transport), a technology featured in DisplayPort 2.1. It allows you to run multiple monitors from a single DisplayPort output, but does have limitations depending on your overall configuration. From what I can tell you don't need to make use of that feature to accomplish your objectives here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One more thing just to clarify EyeFinity; that software is only designed to play games and other fullscreen applications across multiple displays, so you can game in ultra widescreen formats and whatnot. You don't need EyeFinity to use your operating system or to do single monitor gaming, so I wanted to make sure that it's clear here that EyeFinity is not a necessary technology for standard computer use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24541" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="b8724bf0-3c49-419e-baf3-181cb404f94f" CreationDate="2017-08-01T15:52:55.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7848" RevisionGUID="08654971-3378-4b55-8b0e-b0bdd6c46772" CreationDate="2017-08-01T16:32:43.293" UserId="6634" Text="I have been trying to figure out what kind of watt range PSU should I aim for my X370 pro gaming motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ran into a weird range of watt usage on different calculators.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My setup is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    AMD Ryzan 1700x at default speed (no OC)&#xD;&#xA;    4x 16 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Dual Radeon RX 570 and SLI/CF (no OC)&#xD;&#xA;    2x M.2 SSD&#xD;&#xA;    2x SSD&#xD;&#xA;    2x monitor LCD 20 inch&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now Outervision says go for about 491 Watt or so. Which seems very low considering all things!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While Newegg doesn't seem to have put in RX 570 value in yet porperly so I replaced with RX 480 and it comes out at 696 Watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Evga power meter says 600 watt which undercut Newegg's estimate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am going to not setup all of this right away now and I may eventually upgrade to this later. For example at first I will only have one RX 570 GPU, fewer SSD more mechnical drives, and less RAM until I can afford to upgrade those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with all that in mind what kind of watt range should I aim for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7848" RevisionGUID="08654971-3378-4b55-8b0e-b0bdd6c46772" CreationDate="2017-08-01T16:32:43.293" UserId="6634" Text="X370 motherboard: Power Supply Usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7848" RevisionGUID="08654971-3378-4b55-8b0e-b0bdd6c46772" CreationDate="2017-08-01T16:32:43.293" UserId="6634" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7850" RevisionGUID="e4ce9378-cf89-4830-9902-ce80450ddd8f" CreationDate="2017-08-01T19:43:14.963" UserId="6476" Text="Motherboard, ssd, and ram are all negligible wattage. I usually group them and say they use 100 watts max as computer parts are very efficient these days. But for the sake of calculating. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The RX 570 has a **120W TDP**. &#xD;&#xA; - DDR4 is around **15W** for four modules.&#xD;&#xA; - SSD is around **12W** max for two.&#xD;&#xA; - NVME is around **14W** max for two.&#xD;&#xA; - 1700x has a **95W TDP**.&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboards (lga 775 gaming) use **40 to 75 watts** This number is probably drastically lowered as modern motherboards are more efficient and consume less power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore you only need **451 W** under max load. So you really only need a 550W powersupply. You could also get away with a 500W quality PSU as it's most likely your system won't be at 100% full GPU, CPU, SSD at any given point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should note that, you should probably look at getting the rx580 or rx480 instead of trying to crossfire weaker cards. Vega is also around the corner if you can wait. Crossfire has a slew of problems, and spotty game support. It's better to get a single powerful card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24548" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="5743a4db-8fb2-4869-865e-edcdf6a29953" CreationDate="2017-08-01T20:21:18.710" UserId="6523" Comment="Added additional item to the list" Text="I have been on something of a quest for something which I am finding to be a very elusive piece of equipment: a Bluetooth headset that works well with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Windows 10 PC has an onboard Bluetooth module that uses drivers from Windows Update. Windows 7 did not have these drivers, so while running Windows 7, I had a whole different set of issues with external drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What does *work well* mean?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pairs to the computer as an audio and recording device (i.e. both audio input and output; usually will say something like &quot;Connected to voice&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Maintains connection even while charging&#xD;&#xA; - Charges via MicroUSB&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require any drivers outside of Windows Update to function properly (i.e. meet the rest of these conditions)&#xD;&#xA; - Does not cause Audio service crashes or system crashes&#xD;&#xA;   - You would be surprised how many headsets this requirement has disqualified; I find that trying to make a call via Google Hangouts, using the Firefox plugin (on Firefox ESR) causes problems like this for no small number of headsets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, no headset manufacturer advertises anything about these features, except occasionally the charging interface, so essentially, I have to purchase a batch of headsets, and then return them all because they all fail at least one of these conditions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some headsets I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at connecting as voice device:&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics M95&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at maintaining connections while charging (I'm guessing that if a particular manufacturer has this problem, it will have this problem for every one of its headsets):&#xD;&#xA;   - Motorola Boom2&#xD;&#xA;   - Jabra Stealth&#xD;&#xA;   - Jabra Mini&#xD;&#xA;   - Quikcell Mod B&#xD;&#xA;   - MPow Shield&#xD;&#xA;   - Sony Mono BT Headset (I don't know if it had a more descriptive name)&#xD;&#xA; - Used proprietary charger&#xD;&#xA;   - Jawbone&#xD;&#xA;   - LifeCharge B30&#xD;&#xA; - Crashed some aspect of PC&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics Explorer 500&#xD;&#xA;     - Would crash the audio service whenever I used Google Hangouts, which would lead to no audio until I restarted and would cause a system crash on shutdown&#xD;&#xA;   - Samsung HM1000&#xD;&#xA;     - I am currently using this one, which performs the best, but seems to cause BSOD crashes about once or twice per week.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to target headsets $50 or under, and I would think that even a cheap headset could satisfy these requirements, but if none exist at that price point, I would want to know if any Bluetooth headset works properly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24550" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7841" RevisionGUID="2390848b-3b3b-4236-8898-9a13d1e17b76" CreationDate="2017-08-02T02:33:23.600" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7852" RevisionGUID="80322f21-a14f-4622-bc05-16b5ceba6b88" CreationDate="2017-08-02T07:09:15.573" UserId="6720" Text="A question and two good options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. Question: Are you sure you need it? When did you see 4K doesn't run well? Can you link to the file/video you've tried?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an &quot;old&quot; laptop with an I5-4300U which much slower than your CPU and doesn't have the playback features the Skylake CPU has, and it can do 4K almost smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Replace the CPU. The newer Kaby Lake CPUs with a certain iGPU (integrated GPU) and up will do 4K playback smoothly + efficiently. This will save you the need for another card = less heat + less energy required.&#xD;&#xA;With reselling your Skylake I5, the difference in price will be small - at least as small as getting a new Graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest places like /r/hardwareswap on reddit (no feed and such like eBay)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. GPU from the latest series. The cheapest is the Nvidia GT 1030. I see it for $65-$70 on newegg/amazon and pretty sure that with minimal effort and some patience you'll get it for much lower price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some additional notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Very important to keep in mind that playback performance depends not only on the hardware, but on the software and played back file.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7846" RevisionGUID="fadd0093-e171-402d-9985-a5d923031b41" CreationDate="2017-08-02T07:27:23.360" UserId="5488" Comment="added tech details" Text="I bought the Plantronics GameCom 788 as my first headset and every other headset I've tried after just felt and sounded terrible. It's the best audio-related purchase I ever made besides my studio monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can never go back to any other headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound quality is great, and the microphone quality is honestly astounding. I have a broadcast quality microphone and there is almost zero noticeable difference between them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the Dolby drivers that come with it just make everything sound so much better. I can't deal with it being off any more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And just so you know, the GameCom 780 and 788 are the exact same. The only difference is design. I have owned both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Technical Details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Connects via USB cable (works with consoles too)&#xD;&#xA; - Open cups give a larger sound stage&#xD;&#xA; - Not sure what the ear and headband padding is made of but it's breathable and comfortable.&#xD;&#xA; - Very reasonable cost of between £30-50 GBP considering the quality&#xD;&#xA; - Licensed Dolby 7.1 surround sound tech that I don't understand but everything sounds way better with the option turned on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Official Product Page](http://www.plantronics.com/uk/product/gamecom-788)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7853" RevisionGUID="3060b863-3b4b-4504-9610-f648915be4cf" CreationDate="2017-08-02T08:16:10.177" UserId="5488" Text="The [Logitech G300](http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/gaming-mouse-g300) (or G300S) is an ambidextrous mouse that has served me very well for years now. It's branded as gaming but hasn't got a ridiculous design. I also do pretty much everything you mentioned doing and it's never failed me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only potential drawback I can see is that you need the Logitech software to map the extra buttons, but that's a given. Regardless, it can still be used in the plug-n-play style you're after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly cheap at £30 brand new." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24561" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7852" RevisionGUID="a5e9b280-84aa-4059-a110-ecb6c9e1b558" CreationDate="2017-08-02T08:54:22.233" UserId="6720" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="A question and two good options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. Question: Are you sure you need it? When did you see 4K doesn't run well? Can you link to the file/video you've tried?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The I5-6500 with its iGPU should run 4K smoothly, at least at 30FPS, according to my tests (with an I5-6300HQ)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I have an &quot;old&quot; laptop with an I5-4300U which much slower than your CPU and doesn't have the playback features the Skylake CPU has, and it can do 4K almost smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Replace the CPU. The newer Kaby Lake CPUs with a certain iGPU (integrated GPU) and up will do 4K playback smoothly + efficiently. This will save you the need for another card = less heat + less energy required.&#xD;&#xA;With reselling your Skylake I5, the difference in price will be small - at least as small as getting a new Graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest places like /r/hardwareswap on reddit (no feed and such like eBay)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. GPU from the latest series. The cheapest is the Nvidia GT 1030. I see it for $65-$70 on newegg/amazon and pretty sure that with minimal effort and some patience you'll get it for much lower price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some additional notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Very important to keep in mind that playback performance depends not only on the hardware, but on the software and played back file.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="40373462-50ec-4ed0-8969-b5b94efa13ab" CreationDate="2017-08-02T10:16:13.217" UserId="6737" Text="so basically I've gotten the chance to build a computer that has a budget of $2,000 to $7,000. But I just don't know anything about computers. See I'm in dire need for an upgrade from my current MacBook Pro, and this is because I work using the 3D Animation program known as Blender. I need a PC that renders animations in Blender extremely fast, both Cycles and Internal. I also want to use this computer for gaming. I won't keep too many games on it, I for the most part want to just run Dolphin Emulator on it and maybe a few other PC games, but I need to know what I need in order to build this computer that would be within my budget. I don't know anything, nothing about CPU, GPU, nothing. I want to get a high quality monitor, 4K or higher, a good keyboard which I can probably choose on my own, and uh yeah that's pretty much it. Here are the specs for my recent MacBook Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor - 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory - 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2048 MB Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my sister got her computer built and i want to follow the same steps she did which was getting all the information and then buying the parts needed, and then going to Fries Electronic so I can get it built. Again, not sure about what all that info is and I don't know if this is possible but I heard that you can have multiple graphic cards in the computer for very good improvement, if anyone can explain to me what I need (but act like you're talking to a 5 year old) then I'd be all set. Anyways, thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="40373462-50ec-4ed0-8969-b5b94efa13ab" CreationDate="2017-08-02T10:16:13.217" UserId="6737" Text="I need a really good computer that I can get built for Blender 3D rendering and gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="40373462-50ec-4ed0-8969-b5b94efa13ab" CreationDate="2017-08-02T10:16:13.217" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7859" RevisionGUID="8e44943c-d0b5-4e6d-aa12-e592219d2edc" CreationDate="2017-08-02T13:35:59.597" UserId="273" Text="OK, so let's go through what you need (in components) and what you need from each component. You can then go ahead and either a) trust the recommendation of the people building the system for you for the specififc part or b) browse around here or other places and pick one yourself or c) make another question here for a specific recommendation for a specific part.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll need the following in a new desktop computer (I'll ignore peripherals here, that is mouse, keyboard and monitor):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A _Central Processing Unit_ (CPU). The CPU is it what executes all the &quot;logic&quot; that make up applications and controls all the other hardware devices and processes and reacts to your input. Blender being a rendering program, it can split the difficult parts of its work into different chunks and process them independently, **so you want many _cores_ from your CPU (8+ preferably for maximum speed)**. A core is basically one &quot;sub-CPU&quot; that performs fast, sequential logic operations and a bunch of cores with some memory form the CPU. As for the budget, you probably want to spend about 1/3 (maybe a bit more) of your PC-only budget on the CPU and the motherboard. The options you have, include a) server-grade CPUs with _many_ cores which are expensive and require special motherboards or b) current high-end gaming CPUs with quite a few cores (6-10) which are &quot;cheap&quot; and will work but not as good as the other options or c) the (very soon) upcoming AMD &quot;Threadripper&quot; CPUs which will have up to 16 cores for probably a reasonable price or d) the (in october) upcoming Intel Skylake-X CPUs which will have even more cores, but probably also will be expensive (although probably cheaper than a). Given your budget it is probably best to get an AMD Threadripper CPU as they come out (the 16 core one, 1950X) which will probably be just above one thousand dollars. Performance-wise it will probably be at least 10x as fast as your MacBook's CPU.&#xD;&#xA; - A _CPU cooling system_. This is the the fan or water-based system that cools your CPU down. The above mentioned CPUs don't come with this (usually) and thus you need a custom one. There are two main ways of doing this: A fan on-top of a metallic block on the CPU to cool it (usually quite cheap) or a water-based heat extractor on the CPU which uses water to transport the heat to a fan on the border of the case. The latter is a bit more expensive but can also move more heat away and should be _much_ easier to clean (given that you only need to clean the outside reachable fans!). Such systems can be acquired for 50-150 USD easily and usually I'd just suggest the biggest Corsair water one that supports your CPU (rather the CPU's mount, there are adapters) and that still fits in your case, details depend on your case and your specific CPU here and should be clarified in its own question.&#xD;&#xA; - A _mainboard_ (sometimes also _motherboard_ or MB). The mainboard essentially connects all the components and as such it needs to be compatible with the specific CPU you are getting and everything else will usually follow naturally. As the relevant CPU recommendation is not yet out, it's hard to make a proper recommendation here, I suggest just asking another question here after the 10th August for the mainboard. If you go with the Threadripper, you should have no problem finding a _really good_ MB for 500 USD.&#xD;&#xA; - _Random Access Memory_ (RAM). This is the place where all the data gets stored that is too big to fit in the CPU's internal storage but that will need to be accessed again very soon by running programs. The main three metrics to look out for are: Size, Clock and Latency with the latter two having usually a minor impact on performance (a few % usually). In general, you probably want to have half or more of your MB's supported memory in-use, so in your case this will probably be 32GB which will allow you to use more complex assets in Blender and it will probably also be a bit faster than your MacBook because modern RAM is usually clocked higher by default. I can't give a specific recommendation here (because details also somewhat depend on the specific CPU and the MB) but you can probably get the RAM for less than 500 USD, for details I suggest asking another question as soon as you have the MB picked.&#xD;&#xA; - A _graphics processing unit_ (GPU). This is usually a card that you insert into your computer, which does a lot of computations in parallel. Blender can greatly use the cheap gamer graphics cards and so my recommendation would be to get _two_ Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080 Ti cards (probably 800 USD each). They are the top-of-the-line cards and Blender can apparently make great use of them so that having two will usually cut times in half. Also apparently the [_Titan Xp_ will not be much faster (comparison video)][1] (but is twice as expensive). For the specific model follow the advice in the introduction ;)&#xD;&#xA; - A _power supply unit_ (PSU). This is the piece of hardware in your computer that will take your the power out of your wall-socket and transform it such that the computer can use it. The main characterstics of these are the _efficiency_ and the _total power_ they provide. The efficiencies usually get certified and as such you probably want one with gold or above certification and which can supply _at least_ 800W (because each of the cards draw 250W max and the CPU probably 150W by itself), you can probably get this for 200-300 USD. For specific recommendations, again make a new question please :)&#xD;&#xA; - Storage. Storage is the place where your data is when your computer is off or when the data is not actually needed _right now_. In your case it is relevant because it influences loading times of assets. There are three types of relevant drives right now:&#xD;&#xA;   - Hard Disk Drives (HDDs): These are spinny drives that can store a lot of data for little money but can't provide this data quickly or fast.&#xD;&#xA;   - SATA Solid State Drives (SATA-SSDs): These are drives without moving parts (similar to USB sticks) which are fast but more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;   - PCIe SSDs: These are SSDs that are connected closely to the CPU which are _extremely fast_ but also somewhat expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; My recommendation would be to get one of each. Use the PCIe SSD to store your _current_ project files, use the HDD to archive data and use the SATA-SSD to store programs, documents and games. For the HDD, probably a WD Blue 4TB (100-200 USD) will do best, paired with a Samsung 850 Evo (500GB / 1TB whatever you feel you need, 200-300 USD) and with a Samsung 960 Pro (500 GB, 300 USD, Pro because you will probably write a lot of data to it).&#xD;&#xA; - A case. The case is the thing you actually see from the outside and which holds all the components that you have. Special features that make cases interesting is the number and size of fans, whether it has dust filtering and whether it has noise-reduction and the size. You probably want a bigger case that can hold both the cards and the MB, dust filtering will also be nice, you should be able to get this for less than 300 USD. Again, specific recommendations in a specific post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in total we end up with 1000 + 150 + 500 + 500 + 2*800 + 300 + 300 + 800 = 5150, leaving a bit of wiggle room if I underestimated prices here and leaving enough money for a decent monitor and a decent keyboard. Performance-wise, this will overall easily be 10x as fast as your MacBook and will do most tasks with unnoticable delay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_Xfi6qFvRs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24584" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7782" RevisionGUID="e53b6763-ae66-4a4e-9563-06354356acd1" CreationDate="2017-08-02T20:10:55.763" UserId="-1" Comment="59" />
  <row Id="24585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7863" RevisionGUID="81b97ba9-552a-4fde-919b-9467e4a06d18" CreationDate="2017-08-02T20:20:58.687" UserId="6653" Text="I decided to try my luck with a router:&#xD;&#xA;Asus RT-AC51U AC750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And use a pair of access point in the house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, all stable, stable speeds, 0 drops, the router accepts multiple configurations and extensive compatibility .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and Based on Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7864" RevisionGUID="f64847e2-b10b-4d84-a89b-3b88881e7de5" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:06:14.263" UserId="6742" Text="I'm looking for a *ruggedized* enclosure for *3.5&quot;* hard drives. These exist for 2.5&quot; drives (like [this one][1]), but I haven't seen one for 3.5&quot; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Disk enclosure for one 3.5&quot; form-factor SATA disk&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with *large* discs, i.e. 8TB++ (electronically and mechanically)&#xD;&#xA;- Good passive cooling&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.x data interface&#xD;&#xA;- Externally powered with a switch to turn it off&#xD;&#xA;- Available in Germany&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wanted, but not required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- eSATA data interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case is intermittent backup where the disks and enclosure are only on and spinning during the backups and then transported off-site for use in disaster recovery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.raidsonic.de/de/standards/searchresults.php?we_objectID=3580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7864" RevisionGUID="f64847e2-b10b-4d84-a89b-3b88881e7de5" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:06:14.263" UserId="6742" Text="Looking for a ruggedized enclosure for 3.5&quot; hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7864" RevisionGUID="f64847e2-b10b-4d84-a89b-3b88881e7de5" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:06:14.263" UserId="6742" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24589" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7864" RevisionGUID="dfc33205-a2a8-4d25-8f05-e8e6d60a172d" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:35:21.793" UserId="6742" Comment="edited title" Text="Ruggedized enclosure for 3.5&quot; hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24590" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="457745f2-4aeb-4f67-a3fe-c556c78c64af" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:35:37.410" UserId="6742" Comment="retag (since the retag priviledge is gone I have to go through suggested edits)" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24591" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="380" RevisionGUID="457745f2-4aeb-4f67-a3fe-c556c78c64af" CreationDate="2017-08-02T22:35:37.410" Comment="Proposed by 6742 approved by 60 edit id of 620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24600" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="ee5a685e-a985-4ade-b316-7fdcac0d8562" CreationDate="2017-08-03T17:19:07.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24607" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7869" RevisionGUID="223d9f40-775b-4b74-bffc-2db1acd5c67c" CreationDate="2017-08-04T09:23:56.597" UserId="6749" Text="I am looking for a hardware which can be mounted into a rack.&#xD;&#xA;There is no specific performance requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - min 1GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - ARM64 or x86 based architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A normal Ubuntu Core with a small JAVA applet should be run.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interfaces:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2-4 I/O ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Network connectivity:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet (1 G is better, but 100 Mbps is acceptable)&#xD;&#xA; - 3G/4G modem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a NTH feature to reach 70 degree in operating temperature. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you for your help!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24608" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7869" RevisionGUID="223d9f40-775b-4b74-bffc-2db1acd5c67c" CreationDate="2017-08-04T09:23:56.597" UserId="6749" Text="Searching for Rackmount hardware - raspberry pi 2 performance lookalike" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24609" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7869" RevisionGUID="223d9f40-775b-4b74-bffc-2db1acd5c67c" CreationDate="2017-08-04T09:23:56.597" UserId="6749" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="1ee628f5-a4a2-40bf-98ab-fe10ec1eebac" CreationDate="2017-08-04T21:54:03.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="a02babb9-33f0-439f-9102-4fa17ae13697" CreationDate="2017-08-05T06:55:43.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7874" RevisionGUID="3eb49219-859c-4ba1-8030-0040a8fc300c" CreationDate="2017-08-05T17:40:27.890" UserId="6634" Text="http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Professional%20Gaming/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am somewhat bit lost on figuring out which memory that motherboard does support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On one lines it say &quot;- Supports DDR4 ***3200+(OC)***/2933(OC)/2667/2400/2133 ECC &amp; non-ECC, un-buffered memory*&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a quick installation guide booklet that say the same thing about 3200+(OC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yet the following table only list MHZ up to 2667. I may be misreading the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I talked to the computer department manager at Fry's Electronic (local DIY store for PC). He said go for 3000 MHZ because that is the motherboard clock rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went to G.SKill website RAM configurator it only shows support for 2133 MHZ to 2400 MHZ for x370 pro gaming MB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is the 3200 listed overclocked to THIS amount or by default at 3200 and can overclock above that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7874" RevisionGUID="3eb49219-859c-4ba1-8030-0040a8fc300c" CreationDate="2017-08-05T17:40:27.890" UserId="6634" Text="ASROCK Fatal1ty Motherboard X370: Memory support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7874" RevisionGUID="3eb49219-859c-4ba1-8030-0040a8fc300c" CreationDate="2017-08-05T17:40:27.890" UserId="6634" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7875" RevisionGUID="aefe021b-7967-44be-a24e-afcb43209c96" CreationDate="2017-08-06T06:56:13.057" UserId="5740" Text="You can only run your RAM at the speed the CPU is rated at unless you overclock your CPU anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The large majority of Intel CPUs support up to 2400Mhz. I'm not sure about AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically this means that your motherboard can run pretty much any RAM speed, but the CPU may not support the faster speeds anyway, leaving your more expensive purchase a useless investment. Due to this, If you are not overclocking, I would recommend choosing which ever speed of RAM is the least expensive in the range/brand you are looking at. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz is actually more expensive per g/b than 3000Mhz, even though some of the customers of the 3000Mhz product won't overclock their machine, the price is better because uninformed PC enthusiasts buy more of the faster RAM, as it seems more beneficial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer to your question is that the RAM is clocked at the speed listed, but to take advantage of that speed, you will need to overclock your CPU. You will need a overclocking compatible motherboard to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally believe that overclocking your RAM is a pointless thing to do unless you can't afford faster RAM, as overclocking in the general sense will decrease the life expectancy of your hardware anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24642" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7875" RevisionGUID="591fda88-058b-4dbe-97ea-6bc6745789b3" CreationDate="2017-08-06T07:03:48.703" UserId="5740" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body; added 95 characters in body" Text="You can only run your RAM at the speed the CPU is rated at unless you overclock your CPU anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The large majority of Intel CPUs support up to 2400Mhz. I'm not sure about AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically this means that your motherboard can run pretty much any RAM speed, but the CPU may not support the faster speeds anyway, leaving your more expensive purchase a useless investment. Due to this, If you are not overclocking, I would recommend choosing which ever speed of RAM is the least expensive in the range/brand you are looking at. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz is actually more expensive p/gb than 3000Mhz, even though some of the customers of the 3000Mhz product won't overclock their machine, the price is better because uninformed PC enthusiasts buy more of the faster RAM, as it seems more beneficial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer to your question is that the RAM is clocked at the speed listed, but to take advantage of that speed, you will need to overclock your CPU. You will need a overclocking compatible motherboard to do this. OC means that the RAM is overclockable I do believe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally believe that while you can overclock your RAM beyond the listed clock speed, it a pointless thing to do unless you can't afford faster RAM, as overclocking in the general sense will decrease the life expectancy of your hardware anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7876" RevisionGUID="fdfeabb0-3ffb-4638-8fa1-cc5ed843dc7f" CreationDate="2017-08-06T08:34:11.713" UserId="6756" Text="I was planning to install an OS on a USB flash drive so I can run another OS out of my classic Windows 7.&#xA;I was searching for USB drives with high Read and Write speeds, but then I read on an article that that’s not what you have to look at if you want to run OSs on that flash drive.&#xA;&#xA;- - -&#xA;Question&#xA;-&#xA;What are the specs I have to consider in order to get the best out of my flash drive?&#xA;I was thinking about trying out MacOS Sierra, what do you think it’s best?&#xA;- - -&#xA;My pick&#xA;-&#xA;I found [this USB][1] by Kingston as a valid candidate, but then read on [this article][2] that it’s not...&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.kingston.com/en/usb/personal_business/hxs3&#xA;  [2]: http://www.legitreviews.com/hyperx-savage-usb-3-1-flash-drive-review_175374/3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24644" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7876" RevisionGUID="fdfeabb0-3ffb-4638-8fa1-cc5ed843dc7f" CreationDate="2017-08-06T08:34:11.713" UserId="6756" Text="Best USB drive to run OS on" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24645" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7876" RevisionGUID="fdfeabb0-3ffb-4638-8fa1-cc5ed843dc7f" CreationDate="2017-08-06T08:34:11.713" UserId="6756" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7875" RevisionGUID="6288acfa-fb7d-45b3-aa0b-c4bfe9c9c1f9" CreationDate="2017-08-06T15:50:25.833" UserId="5740" Comment="deleted 171 characters in body" Text="Your motherboard can run any of the listed RAM speeds, but the extra speed will not be utilised if you do not use Extreme Memory Profile (XMP), leaving your more expensive purchase of faster RAM a useless investment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to this, If you are not thinking of modifying your BIOS settings, I would recommend choosing which ever speed of RAM is the least expensive in the range/brand you are looking at. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz is actually more expensive p/gb than 3000Mhz, even though some of the customers of the 3000Mhz product won't use the XMP option, the price is better because uninformed PC enthusiasts buy more of the faster RAM, as it seems more beneficial.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer to your question is that the RAM is clocked at the speed listed, but to take advantage of that speed, you will need to enable the XMP option in your BIOS menu. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OC means that the memory controller on the motherboard is overclocked when using 2933 or faster RAM, such as the 3200Mhz products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7877" RevisionGUID="1c51f49d-1894-4bc1-be89-ceef291f3281" CreationDate="2017-08-06T20:06:28.393" UserDisplayName="user6760" Text="Can you get a standalone TV set these days that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* works without an internet connection to show free British TV channels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* works without requiring a subscription, account, password, or any kind of user identification or verification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* shows you what's being broadcast on a few channels as soon as you put enough electrical current through its plug at the right voltage, in whatever place a person decides to do that, assuming there's a signal&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* does not communicate outwards with any device, or inwards with any device (even a remote control) other than the transmitter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* can be bought in a shop for cash&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be interested in recommendations both for TV sets proper that meet these criteria and also for three-part hardware arrangements that collectively meet them, comprising a box to receive the signal, a cable, and a monitor to watch it on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24648" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7877" RevisionGUID="1c51f49d-1894-4bc1-be89-ceef291f3281" CreationDate="2017-08-06T20:06:28.393" UserDisplayName="user6760" Text="TV set without internet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24649" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7877" RevisionGUID="1c51f49d-1894-4bc1-be89-ceef291f3281" CreationDate="2017-08-06T20:06:28.393" UserDisplayName="user6760" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24650" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="3243a0c9-541f-4db9-8d0c-f4cd4297f68f" CreationDate="2017-08-06T20:28:46.717" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24653" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7874" RevisionGUID="88217c15-8a81-40fa-959b-e2968d3ed6e3" CreationDate="2017-08-06T23:21:43.753" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="e20eb4ab-66d1-4e0c-9f34-886e5e40d70f" CreationDate="2017-08-07T02:55:52.063" UserId="6762" Text="I'm looking for a way to display web content on non-internet capable TVs. Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output to the TV&#xD;&#xA; - Built in WiFi or USB WiFi capability&#xD;&#xA; - Simple for non-technical people to control, ideally no mouse/keyboard needed (a remote would be nice)&#xD;&#xA; - Doesn't break the bank&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I've tried so far and haven't worked:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Generic Android TV stick: Too complicated and requires a kb/mouse&#xD;&#xA; - Roku: The only browser in their channel store is $5/mo which is out of the question&#xD;&#xA; - Amazon FireTV: Was able to find a real hacky way to get a browser on it, but it rendered content in a real bad way for no discernible reason&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering a Raspberry Pi but again that's a little more tech intensive than I'd like, hopefully one of you have run into a device that meets these requirements. Finding a simple device that has Chrome/Firefox/whatever built in or available is proving to be more difficult than I thought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24659" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="e20eb4ab-66d1-4e0c-9f34-886e5e40d70f" CreationDate="2017-08-07T02:55:52.063" UserId="6762" Text="Browse the web on a non-internet TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24660" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="e20eb4ab-66d1-4e0c-9f34-886e5e40d70f" CreationDate="2017-08-07T02:55:52.063" UserId="6762" Text="&lt;hdtv&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;htpc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7880" RevisionGUID="2814b074-3972-4784-af89-42144f8c9b31" CreationDate="2017-08-07T13:20:02.303" UserId="6527" Text="I made a similar thread a couple weeks ago and settled for this Mini PC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M24W77N/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been great so far. I'm pushing 4k on it comfortably and it seems powerful enough for streaming and general web browsing. It's not great at multitasking as you can imagine for a small PC but it's been great for me so far!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7882" RevisionGUID="8b4feae8-e300-446d-95ff-2cd3d5a90aea" CreationDate="2017-08-07T17:32:21.670" UserId="6765" Text="I'm looking for recommendations for a replacement cooler for my ASUS OEM 3GB Graphics Card. It's a single fan, however the mounting bracket for the fan is X shaped rather than the tri-point versions I've found while searching. If I could just replace the fan that would be great, however if I have to replace the cooler I don't mind. It just needs to be under $25." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24672" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7882" RevisionGUID="8b4feae8-e300-446d-95ff-2cd3d5a90aea" CreationDate="2017-08-07T17:32:21.670" UserId="6765" Text="Replacement Cooler For Asus 760 OEM 3GB Graphics Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24673" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7882" RevisionGUID="8b4feae8-e300-446d-95ff-2cd3d5a90aea" CreationDate="2017-08-07T17:32:21.670" UserId="6765" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24674" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7466" RevisionGUID="f8f297b1-3930-46c1-8c9d-7b49041894aa" CreationDate="2017-08-07T19:26:56.057" UserId="3788" Comment="Progress on GNS, added Royaltek" Text="For quite some time it seemed as if the best bets would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Use USB instead of Bluetooth. There are some Si470x tuner dongles out there for which open-source drivers exist. I have managed to port a driver to Android and get raw TMC data from the device via an Android app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Build your own hardware: The Si470x chip is also widely used in the single-board computer community with breakout boards available. These, however, have an I²C interface, so you would need a Bluetooth-I²C bridge, most of which expose a Bluetooth serial interface. Challenge: the Bluetooth-I²C bridges I’ve seen so far don’t seem to come as breakout boards. Solution: get a Bluetooth-UART bridge and a UART-I²C bridge, both of which are widely available as breakout boards. Once you’ve pieced this together, again, you will need to write a driver, again based on the existing Linux driver. The protocol is not hard to understand and well documented—SparkFun has links to the relevant documentation—so this should be doable for a somewhat experienced programmer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, however, I came across something else: some folks out there had made some [progress][1] in decoding the proprietary GNS protocol, which the TMC dongles bult by GNS (one of the major players on the market) speak. The protocol is the same, regardless of the interface (USB, UART or Bluetooth), and by trying all possible opcides, I found another two commands. I’ve since developed a driver and am successfully using the device (mostly limited by the antenna setup). Both the Bluetooth and UART flavor have worked for me (I didn’t have a USB device to test with).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another major player on the market is Royaltek. Their devices seem to be mostly combined GPS/TMC dongles, which communicate both GPS and TMC status via the NMEA protocol. There’s some progress on decoding that as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.matthiasbock.net/index.php/GNS_TMC_Protocol_(partly)_disclosed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24675" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7883" RevisionGUID="b107097a-adab-4707-aca7-c9a0e82d08f5" CreationDate="2017-08-07T19:30:28.423" UserId="6767" Text="[![Rotation Requirements][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgddA.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, I write code, browse webpages, and read documents with my monitors in a vertical rotation (portrait rather than landscape), but I've come to realize when I play games or watch shows (which I typically do at the same time), it's better to do it in a horizontal rotation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a monitor stand that can hold two monitors together and rotate around a central axis. In my diagram, I show a red base connected to a green central rotation. That connects to the black bar which rotates both monitors attached via the blue brackets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main idea here is to switch from coding to games, I would just have to rotate 1 object together. The blue connectors should be able to move along the black bar to some degree to adjust for monitor size, and provide a way to adjust the angle in. The green rotation should just rotate the monitor on the roll axis. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked for a solution, but the closest I can find is this:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories/monitor-accessories/monitor-stands-and-arms/Planar-Dual-Monitor-stand/p/78001319?cid=us:cse:KWey90:ca|Bing|78001319&amp;CAWELAID=600003960000034039&amp;ef_id=WXD-aQAAAGXuFnPP:20170807192240:s&quot;&gt;Planar Dual Monitor by Lenovo&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't rotate around the central axis. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have a monitor set up like this? I'm not afraid of combining two monitor stands together if I must (like combine a single stand with the Lenovo bar), but I'd prefer a solution I can just buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondary reqs:&#xD;&#xA;24&quot; monitors in 1920x1200 configuration&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24676" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7883" RevisionGUID="b107097a-adab-4707-aca7-c9a0e82d08f5" CreationDate="2017-08-07T19:30:28.423" UserId="6767" Text="Is there a monitor stand for 2 monitors that can rotate together?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24677" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7883" RevisionGUID="b107097a-adab-4707-aca7-c9a0e82d08f5" CreationDate="2017-08-07T19:30:28.423" UserId="6767" Text="&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7887" RevisionGUID="23bbea3b-71ca-4553-a43d-f6f4bbde1b23" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:51:56.990" UserId="2240" Text="I consider buying Titan XP for my work on training neural net on my laptop Mac. I have never used any external GPU but as far as I investigate how to set up eGPU, it seems that I must prepare another component called *eGPU box*. For example [this blog author uses an eGPU box called Akitio Thunder3 along with GTX 1050 Ti](https://9to5mac.com/2017/04/11/hands-on-powering-the-macbook-pro-with-an-egpu-using-nvidias-new-pascal-drivers/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I don't understand what is eGPU box and what is it for? Is it not possible to just buy eGPU and connect it to my laptop Mac? Do I have to buy yet another component to connect to eGPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24694" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7887" RevisionGUID="23bbea3b-71ca-4553-a43d-f6f4bbde1b23" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:51:56.990" UserId="2240" Text="What is eGPU and what is it for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24695" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7887" RevisionGUID="23bbea3b-71ca-4553-a43d-f6f4bbde1b23" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:51:56.990" UserId="2240" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7888" RevisionGUID="766ebf07-63a3-49f0-be3c-f1b8e19e898a" CreationDate="2017-08-08T19:26:42.257" UserId="273" Text="In order to use an _external Graphics Processing Unit_ (eGPU) you (usually) need three components:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A Thunderbold 3 cable (I will not elaborate on this one)&#xD;&#xA; - A case / box that supplies power and a mount for desktop graphics cards&#xD;&#xA; - A desktop graphics card that satisfies the spatial and power constraints of the box&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the blog entry the box is an Akitio Thunder3 and the graphics card is a Nvidia Geforce GTX 1050 Ti. The Thunder3 provides the mount for the desktop graphics card, provides the power and the PCIe &lt;=&gt; Thunderbolt 3 interface and optionally also provides power for the connected laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is it not possible to just buy eGPU and connect it to my laptop Mac?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no such thing as an &quot;eGPU&quot;, the name designates the concept of using an external GPU, which is most commonly done by &quot;faking&quot; an internal environment to an internal GPU externally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are interested in actually acquiring an eGPU solution, [egpu.io][1] has nice coverage, reviews, guides and overviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://egpu.io" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7890" RevisionGUID="e8491cbf-0ec0-4d6c-957b-f0edfcfc3438" CreationDate="2017-08-08T20:49:07.397" UserId="4880" Text="I'm using an HP ZR30w 30&quot; monitor, which is great to arrange things on the screen, but also gets a very high screen temperature (basically you almost can't touch it). Is there any kind of technology that provides similar screen size and resolution, but operating at lower temperatures?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a [review][1] where a user claims the same point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.solidsmack.com/3d-cad-technology/hp-zr30w-lcd-monitor-hands-on-review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24701" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7890" RevisionGUID="e8491cbf-0ec0-4d6c-957b-f0edfcfc3438" CreationDate="2017-08-08T20:49:07.397" UserId="4880" Text="Monitor with low screen temperature" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24702" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7890" RevisionGUID="e8491cbf-0ec0-4d6c-957b-f0edfcfc3438" CreationDate="2017-08-08T20:49:07.397" UserId="4880" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24703" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="07b60519-6185-4bf9-8850-41411bfb6e8d" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:03:15.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24706" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7887" RevisionGUID="51e143d3-64f8-49ff-adaa-8199c6dc91c2" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:17:54.727" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="9d77aeb8-bf1e-4e24-8c29-cb51e09a4739" CreationDate="2017-08-08T22:03:24.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="1cb54aed-5768-43be-91d4-9394edfdc265" CreationDate="2017-08-09T16:28:57.830" UserId="6775" Text="I have decided to mount my own nas in a relatively cheap way. &#xD;&#xA;I found a motherboard with enough sata3 ports for my needs (ASRock A320M-DGS) and a cheap processor (AMD A4-4000). The only issue is that the motherboard has a AM4 socket while the processor has been designed for a FM2 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will there be a fundamental compatibility issue?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best,&#xD;&#xA;MP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="1cb54aed-5768-43be-91d4-9394edfdc265" CreationDate="2017-08-09T16:28:57.830" UserId="6775" Text="compatibility AMD A4-4000 processor with AM4 socket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="1cb54aed-5768-43be-91d4-9394edfdc265" CreationDate="2017-08-09T16:28:57.830" UserId="6775" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24724" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="a40e2847-19ae-498e-b12f-0cc64a4b51a8" CreationDate="2017-08-09T16:41:55.533" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7895" RevisionGUID="dca1881f-af99-460a-84f6-591750f9ce3b" CreationDate="2017-08-09T18:39:36.153" UserId="6776" Text="I have a MSI GTX 970 4G and recently a few pins in the HDMI port broke. The card has 3 other ports: Display Port, Dual link DVI-I and DVI-D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I sometimes alternate between monitor (1080@60) and TV (2160@60). What cord or adapter would you guys recommend to get maximum bandwidth (2160@60).&#xD;&#xA;My monitor has HDMI and DVI-D and TV only has HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24726" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7895" RevisionGUID="dca1881f-af99-460a-84f6-591750f9ce3b" CreationDate="2017-08-09T18:39:36.153" UserId="6776" Text="What video port should I get for optimum resolution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24727" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7895" RevisionGUID="dca1881f-af99-460a-84f6-591750f9ce3b" CreationDate="2017-08-09T18:39:36.153" UserId="6776" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24728" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="1056298b-e730-4ff3-8c98-76b1e7c642a5" CreationDate="2017-08-09T18:54:10.983" UserId="6775" Comment="added 133 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have decided to mount my own nas in a relatively cheap way. &#xD;&#xA;I found a motherboard with enough sata3 ports for my needs (ASRock A320M-DGS) and a cheap processor (AMD A4-4000). The only issue is that the motherboard has a AM4 socket while the processor has been designed for a FM2 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[edited]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it appears that these elements are not compatible, could someone give me good alternatives (different motherboard and/or processor) within the same range of price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best,&#xD;&#xA;MP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24729" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="1056298b-e730-4ff3-8c98-76b1e7c642a5" CreationDate="2017-08-09T18:54:10.983" UserId="6775" Comment="added 133 characters in body; edited title" Text="motherboard with three or four sata3 ports , socket compatible with cheap processor (for a diy NAS)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7896" RevisionGUID="631dece7-3b7b-48a0-9e09-7bf45173ef89" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:18:32.183" UserId="6777" Text="Design a desktop computer system that would reasonably be expected to last for 100 years. Assume it will be used for 3 hours every day in this period (100,000 hours)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If some parts of the computer simply won't last that long, try and estimate how many spares might be needed to last the 100 years. For example, what type of monitor would last the longest before catastrophic failure? Would it last 100,000 hours? If not, how many would you need? Are there issues storing spare parts for long periods of time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assume the computer has about 1TB of data that you'd want to keep for the 100 year period. What backup strategy would you use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Performance is not really an issue. Assume the machine will be used for running Office type applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are too many possible approaches to this to answer the question, then try and aim for the cheapest option you can think of." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24731" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7896" RevisionGUID="631dece7-3b7b-48a0-9e09-7bf45173ef89" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:18:32.183" UserId="6777" Text="Computer that would last 100 years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24732" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7896" RevisionGUID="631dece7-3b7b-48a0-9e09-7bf45173ef89" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:18:32.183" UserId="6777" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7897" RevisionGUID="26a8bcc5-fd58-4660-ae13-db1fdfdbc1ce" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:38:29.313" UserId="6720" Text="DisplayPort is the newest and with the highest bandwidth, even compared to the first HDMI 2.0 connections. You won't have problems with 4K@60FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#1.2 (you probably have 1.2, maybe 1.3, but probably not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 2.0:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the bandwidth difference" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24734" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7897" RevisionGUID="825d6081-fcb6-4647-99cb-c9614d5a80de" CreationDate="2017-08-09T20:28:13.030" UserId="6720" Comment="added 137 characters in body" Text="DisplayPort is the newest and with the highest bandwidth, even compared to the first HDMI 2.0 connections. You won't have problems with 4K@60FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take into account the limitations of the display. If you have an HDMI 1.4 support in your display, then that's will be the limitation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#1.2 (you probably have 1.2, maybe 1.3, but probably not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 2.0:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the bandwidth difference" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7897" RevisionGUID="5e83bc12-7ec9-41c6-b92a-12d61823fd6e" CreationDate="2017-08-09T20:34:23.410" UserId="6720" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="DisplayPort is the newest and with the highest bandwidth, even compared to the first HDMI 2.0 connections. You won't have problems with 4K@60FPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take into account the limitations of the display. If you have an HDMI 1.4 support in your display, then that's will be the limitation, so I guess that in your case, you won't be able to do 4K@60FPS, only 4K@30FPS (which should be good for movies)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#1.2 (you probably have 1.2, maybe 1.3, but probably not)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 2.0:&#xD;&#xA;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check the bandwidth difference" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24736" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="f263ab30-aa3e-457b-9e33-27272bb06653" CreationDate="2017-08-09T21:57:48.660" UserId="6762" Comment="60" />
  <row Id="24737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7898" RevisionGUID="ce97de35-02af-4978-a821-7374738c0e12" CreationDate="2017-08-09T22:43:39.450" UserId="6476" Text="DVI does not support 4k60 so your only option is to **use the display-port**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As your TV is most likely HDMI only, getting a display-port to hdmi 2.0 adapter is fine as that provides plenty of bandwidth for 4k60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend using Display-port to hdmi 2.0 for your TV, and using DVI to your monitor so you don't have to switch between the two physically. If not you can just continue to share the hdmi connection from the display-port adapter. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7900" RevisionGUID="820aab2a-c11c-4e69-9a76-670202bbc674" CreationDate="2017-08-10T06:00:48.717" UserId="131" Text="Most all electronic devices have a MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) specification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use the spec. to find the highest MTBF, and then calculate how many you will need to cover 100 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course this is on average. Your best bet would be to exceed it as much as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And whatever you do, DON'T drop it!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7901" RevisionGUID="196b7ce0-5ca7-41fc-9c0c-6913c5bfca4e" CreationDate="2017-08-10T08:17:57.880" UserId="6781" Text="0 down vote favorite I have a Synology NAS storing lots of movies and TV shows and I also have a Netflix account. In the past, I was using boxee box connected to my TV to play movies from the NAS via DLNA (unfortunately, boxee couldn't do Netlix for the past few years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since boxee died, I decided to get a HTPC running Win10 and Kodi to do the job, however, I couldn't get Netflix running on Kodi and I also wasn't able to find a skin that would be at least somehow as clear and ergonomic as the skin boxee used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the question is: what HW/SW combination to use for this? Ideally, this should be all in one interface (one app or one device), controllable with a simple remote control and the skin should be really simple and minimalistic. I'm fine changing both HW and SW to achieve this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I don't want to use anything like Chromecast where you got to have a phone to control the thing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24744" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7901" RevisionGUID="196b7ce0-5ca7-41fc-9c0c-6913c5bfca4e" CreationDate="2017-08-10T08:17:57.880" UserId="6781" Text="HW+SW combo to comfortably connect to NAS and Netflix" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24745" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7901" RevisionGUID="196b7ce0-5ca7-41fc-9c0c-6913c5bfca4e" CreationDate="2017-08-10T08:17:57.880" UserId="6781" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24750" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="7a2f1e83-0217-492e-bdb0-b78765690a78" CreationDate="2017-08-10T12:33:47.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24751" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7896" RevisionGUID="ca79d718-b36b-49f3-94fd-f5d25d1183c5" CreationDate="2017-08-10T14:31:19.620" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7901" RevisionGUID="8140a726-0094-42da-867e-79bf9ab22ee5" CreationDate="2017-08-10T15:13:30.310" UserId="6781" Comment="added 77 characters in body" Text="0 down vote favorite I have a Synology NAS storing lots of movies and TV shows and I also have a Netflix account. In the past, I was using boxee box connected to my TV to play movies from the NAS via DLNA (unfortunately, boxee couldn't do Netlix for the past few years).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since boxee died, I decided to get a HTPC running Win10 and Kodi to do the job, however, I couldn't get Netflix running on Kodi and I also wasn't able to find a skin that would be at least somehow as clear and ergonomic as the skin boxee used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the question is: what HW/SW combination to use for this? Ideally, this should be all in one interface (one app or one device), controllable with a simple remote control and the skin should be really simple and minimalistic. I'm fine changing both HW and SW to achieve this, ideally for something that would meet the requirements above out of the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I don't want to use anything like Chromecast where you got to have a phone to control the thing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24754" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="9e311f29-c7aa-48f1-b51e-0907a830f476" CreationDate="2017-08-10T15:44:30.790" UserId="2240" Text="I consider setting up eGPU on my MacBook (mid-2017) to improve the training time on Deep Learning. Currently, it trains only on CPU and thus is too slow and practically useless to train a large amount of data. The Deep Learning framework I use is Keras/TensorFlow, which requires to use CUDA so it must be CUDA-compatible Nvidia GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Switching to a desktop workstation is not a choice as I'm a traveler. Switching to MacBook Pro is also not a choice right now as it is heavy to carry, though it might be a consideration in the future (especially because it has Thunderbolt 3 port). The cloud (AWS, etc) is not also a choice as it is far more expensive in longer-term.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Badget: $1,200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop is mid-2017 MacBook with 16GB RAM; the OS is always the latest (currently Sierra)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The electrical bill is NOT a concern as I don't pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest concern is the port is USB 3.1 Gen1, which likely doesn't perform better than the expection. But it still should be faster than the CPU on MacBook; in this case is there any recommendation to set up eGPU environment?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24755" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="9e311f29-c7aa-48f1-b51e-0907a830f476" CreationDate="2017-08-10T15:44:30.790" UserId="2240" Text="eGPU for Deep Learning on MacBook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24756" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="9e311f29-c7aa-48f1-b51e-0907a830f476" CreationDate="2017-08-10T15:44:30.790" UserId="2240" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7904" RevisionGUID="777bcd94-0fa4-4ec8-8e21-faff7dc84225" CreationDate="2017-08-10T16:14:23.273" UserId="6784" Text="I love my [Sennheiser PX95][1] that I bought two years ago. It's simple. Lightweight yet sturdy with its metal frame. Does not over-heat your eats. The sound is more than decent. And it... *used to* be cheap ($35 back in the days).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now Sennheiser seems to have discontinued the production of the PX95, and you can only buy it second-hand for about $75.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is any other manufacturer making headphones similar to the PX95 these days?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I am looking for headphones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $40.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Overhead.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Lightweight.&#xD;&#xA; 4. ``Open-ears&quot;, i.e., with speaker that do not cover the whole ear and avoid overheating your ears.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Sturdy, ideally with a *metal frame* (I have been throwing my PX95 in my backpack without much care for more than 2 years, and it's like new, no damage to the frame, the speakers, or the cord)&#xD;&#xA; 6. That provide a decent sound for the price, comparable or just as good as the PX95 (I realize this item is harder to evaluate...)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Mini-jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/sennheiser-px-95-versatile-on-ear-headphones.16577/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24758" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7904" RevisionGUID="777bcd94-0fa4-4ec8-8e21-faff7dc84225" CreationDate="2017-08-10T16:14:23.273" UserId="6784" Text="Headphone similar to Sennheiser PX95" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24759" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7904" RevisionGUID="777bcd94-0fa4-4ec8-8e21-faff7dc84225" CreationDate="2017-08-10T16:14:23.273" UserId="6784" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24760" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="808ae81f-ceeb-43f5-b5a9-f640a679aa82" CreationDate="2017-08-10T17:35:36.093" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7906" RevisionGUID="25337c80-b9ef-4f45-9e65-c2384fd2de91" CreationDate="2017-08-10T20:52:22.537" UserId="6786" Text="Check out [openUPS2][1] or NUC-UPS from mini-box.com, they even have hard drive mounting footprint for easy integration with case. They also send ON/OFF pulse to the motherboard via 2 wire or USB for graceful shutdown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.mini-box.com/OpenUPS2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24766" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7904" RevisionGUID="f9d5ba3c-7255-4264-a489-19fa404ed13e" CreationDate="2017-08-11T00:28:11.813" UserId="6784" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I love my [Sennheiser PX95][1] that I bought two years ago. It's simple. Lightweight yet sturdy with its metal frame. Does not over-heat your eats. The sound is more than decent. And it... *used to* be cheap ($35 back in the days).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now Sennheiser seems to have discontinued the production of the PX95, and you can only buy it second-hand for about $75.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is any other manufacturer making headphones similar to the PX95 these days?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I am looking for headphones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Under $40.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Overhead,&#xD;&#xA; 3. Lightweight,&#xD;&#xA; 4. ``Open-ears&quot;, i.e., with speaker that do not cover the whole ear and avoid overheating your ears.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Sturdy, ideally with a *metal frame* (I have been throwing my PX95 in my backpack without much care for more than 2 years, and it's like new, no damage to the frame, the speakers, or the cord),&#xD;&#xA; 6. That provide a decent sound for the price, comparable or just as good as the PX95 (I realize this item is harder to evaluate...)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Mini-jack,&#xD;&#xA; 8. Corded,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/sennheiser-px-95-versatile-on-ear-headphones.16577/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="773abbe4-c67a-4574-9cbb-16dc506ab040" CreationDate="2017-08-11T02:52:08.567" UserId="2240" Comment="remove thanks and redundant comment" Text="I am using Keras with Theano backend. Until now I have used aws ec2 GPU instances for train my keras network. As my experiments become larger - my network trains become longer and my bills become bigger. I calculated that good workstation would be a better investment then renting aws ec2 GPU instances on the cloud. I am copying components of NVIDIA DIGITS DevBox (https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox), except there are new GPUs on the market, so I have couple of question about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it better, for deep learning, to buy four GTX 1080 or dual Titan X Pascal (specs - http://wccftech.com/nvidia-new-titan-x-pascal-performance/)? Four GTX 1080s give me 10240 CUDA cores with boost speed @1733mhz, 32GB of GDDR5X VRAM and 36 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute. For the same price dual TITAN X Pascal will give me 7168 CUDA cores boost clock @ 1530mhz, 24 VRAM GDDR5X, and 22 TFLOPs of FP32Compute.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan of using multiple GPUs is train same model with different parameters on different GPUs, to see which combination of parameters is most effective. I need the GPU solution that is most efficient for this type of usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24768" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="773abbe4-c67a-4574-9cbb-16dc506ab040" CreationDate="2017-08-11T02:52:08.567" Comment="Proposed by 2240 approved by -1 edit id of 621" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4365" RevisionGUID="1d3ca25c-a56b-4e5d-97f1-dbb547c6793c" CreationDate="2017-08-11T02:52:08.567" UserId="203" Comment="remove thanks and redundant comment; Grammar and Formatting" Text="I am using Keras with Theano backend. Until now I have used AWS EC2 GPU instances for train my keras network. As my experiments become larger, my network trains became longer and my bills became bigger. I calculated that good workstation would be a better investment than renting AWS EC2 GPU instances on the cloud. I am copying components of [NVIDIA DIGITS DevBox](https://developer.nvidia.com/devbox), except there are new GPUs on the market, so I have couple of question about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it better, for deep learning, to buy four GTX 1080 or dual Titan X Pascal [(specs)](http://wccftech.com/nvidia-new-titan-x-pascal-performance/)? Four GTX 1080s give me 10240 CUDA cores with boost speed @1733 Mhz, 32GB of GDDR5X VRAM and 36 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute. For the same price dual TITAN X Pascal will give me 7168 CUDA cores boost clock @ 1530 Mhz, 24 VRAM GDDR5X, and 22 TFLOPs of FP32 Compute.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan of using multiple GPUs is train same model with different parameters on different GPUs, to see which combination of parameters is most effective. I need the GPU solution that is most efficient for this type of usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7909" RevisionGUID="3fabc41f-10b6-4d07-9b81-44ea7854c7b5" CreationDate="2017-08-11T08:16:45.567" UserId="6789" Text="I don't think there are any devices that can use USB3.1gen2 potential, so if USB3.1gen1 is OK for you, you should tak a look at Dell D6000 docking: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-universal-dock-d6000/apd/452-bcyt/pc-accessories" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24777" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="3f5e9a94-66ce-4bee-badb-c9ebb0b2e60a" CreationDate="2017-08-11T09:42:10.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24786" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="7909" RevisionGUID="539870c0-87d9-4ebe-83c9-e99818d2ce8d" CreationDate="2017-08-11T21:15:46.677" UserId="60" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24788" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7912" RevisionGUID="84d932c3-ed18-4779-b5c5-289d1180a2ce" CreationDate="2017-08-11T23:59:55.400" UserId="6765" Text="My current 6 button mouse is failing me, and I would like to find a similar mouse. My primary requirement is that it must have forwards and backwards buttons. It must also work with linux and be wired." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24789" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7912" RevisionGUID="84d932c3-ed18-4779-b5c5-289d1180a2ce" CreationDate="2017-08-11T23:59:55.400" UserId="6765" Text="6 Button Mouse Under $30" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24790" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7912" RevisionGUID="84d932c3-ed18-4779-b5c5-289d1180a2ce" CreationDate="2017-08-11T23:59:55.400" UserId="6765" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24794" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7894" RevisionGUID="a94e67b2-4cac-4688-a3b0-5f1b87769a8f" CreationDate="2017-08-12T01:56:18.180" UserId="6775" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="I have decided to mount my own nas in a relatively cheap way. &#xD;&#xA;I found a motherboard with enough sata3 ports for my needs (ASRock A320M-DGS) and a cheap processor (AMD A4-4000). The only issue is that the motherboard has a AM4 socket while the processor has been designed for a FM2 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[edited]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it appears that these elements are not compatible, could someone give me good alternatives (combination of motherboard and processor) within the same range of price and that fit my purpose (nas for my personal use, motherboard with 3 or 4 sata ports)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24795" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="c725a8bf-dfe9-45ea-a922-5f81ef80dc7c" CreationDate="2017-08-12T02:43:52.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24803" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="8aa865b2-0726-43d4-ba53-1f708bb42114" CreationDate="2017-08-12T16:48:21.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7915" RevisionGUID="8407f91f-a79d-4fa4-bb7f-7fcd59a4645e" CreationDate="2017-08-12T17:23:32.060" UserId="6720" Text="Option 1. If you are locked with this machine with no option for replacing and you are interested in having only it, then you best bet for local GPU solution is using an mSata or NGFF eGPU like this&#xD;&#xA;https://www.banggood.com/NGFF-Version-V8_0-EXP-GDC-Beast-Laptop-External-Independent-Video-Card-Dock-p-1009978.html?rmmds=search&#xD;&#xA;It is quite slow, but it will boost performance for GPU based application considerably - especially if you'll connect to it an external monitor (thus relieving the PCIe connection from having to transmit the video signal too)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 2: Otherwise, consider simply getting another pc (no need for a laptop) to do the heavy lifting. You can buy something rather cheap with a good GPU. You can even connect to it remotely from your laptop, sending it tasks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 3. you might want to consider running GPU tasks on a remote machine altogether. There are such services" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7909" RevisionGUID="0518caa6-3c87-4575-9e2c-5846113a900e" CreationDate="2017-08-12T20:20:40.307" UserId="6789" Comment="added 278 characters in body" Text="I don't think there are any devices that can use USB3.1gen2 potential, so if USB3.1gen1 is OK for you, you should take a look at Dell D6000 docking station: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-universal-dock-d6000/apd/452-bcyt/pc-accessories&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1x USB 3.1gen1 type-C port&#xD;&#xA; - 4x USB 3.1gen1 type-A port&#xD;&#xA; - 2x DP port (5k capable)&#xD;&#xA; - 1x HDMI port&#xD;&#xA; - RJ45 (Ethernet) port&#xD;&#xA; - 3.5mm combo jack for headphones/microphone&#xD;&#xA; - power delivery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And probably it is still cheaper than Thunderbolt dock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24810" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7912" RevisionGUID="cf6f4143-0db8-402c-b01d-90e746d4eb42" CreationDate="2017-08-12T22:18:48.890" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24811" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="7909" RevisionGUID="27650bab-c9a8-444e-89af-e33916e4cd68" CreationDate="2017-08-12T22:19:33.163" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24812" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="b373dd5c-58eb-42f2-bb95-a6b425d6dc6e" CreationDate="2017-08-13T08:19:51.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24822" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="a3c89210-0c2f-4c71-95f0-b20b1fe91797" CreationDate="2017-08-13T18:34:30.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24841" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7922" RevisionGUID="11cfd3eb-e29c-4f47-857c-a9f2fc337a75" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:19:00.367" UserId="6618" Text="I was all set to buy the One Plus 5 but realised that it doesn't support SD cards or have an FM radio. I looked at the Xiaomi Mi6 as well but that's similarly hobbled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a decent spec Android Nougat smartphone, 5&quot; display or bigger with SD card support and an active FM chip please?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24842" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7922" RevisionGUID="11cfd3eb-e29c-4f47-857c-a9f2fc337a75" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:19:00.367" UserId="6618" Text="Android smartphone with SD and FM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24843" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7922" RevisionGUID="11cfd3eb-e29c-4f47-857c-a9f2fc337a75" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:19:00.367" UserId="6618" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24844" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="8d3663e3-76fe-41ea-b340-595639098e9a" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:35:24.440" UserId="6806" Text="I am searching for a keyboard similar to the [Cherry MX-BOARD 3.0](http://www.cherry.de/cid/Mechanical_keyboards_CHERRY_MX-Board_30.htm?). I used this keyboard for quite a time and really liked it but it does not satisfy all my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Low price (&lt;=100 EUR) since this will my secondary keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Blue (or green) switches (Cherry)&#xD;&#xA;* en-gb keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;* Media keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24845" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="8d3663e3-76fe-41ea-b340-595639098e9a" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:35:24.440" UserId="6806" Text="Low priced mechanical keyboard with en-gb layout and blue switches (cherry)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24846" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="8d3663e3-76fe-41ea-b340-595639098e9a" CreationDate="2017-08-14T17:35:24.440" UserId="6806" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7924" RevisionGUID="409c0d0f-32db-4a53-891a-6abe0037bd22" CreationDate="2017-08-14T21:13:57.080" UserId="97" Text="Are there any noise-canceling headphones with a builtin audio player?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background: I am looking for noise-canceling headphones that would be convenient to use on long distance flights. So far all of the headphones I have seen required a separate device to use as audio player. I find that inconvenient because I need to carry an extra device and will need a wire between the two devices whenever using them. Moreover each seat usually only has a single outlet for charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum requirements that I am looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Noise-canceling headphones with ear cups&#xD;&#xA;- Builtin audio player that I can copy audio files to beforehand&#xD;&#xA;- Must be possible to charge from a USB port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- FLAC support&#xD;&#xA;- Ability to disable data connections such that I can charge from an untrusted USB port.&#xD;&#xA;- Option to use a cable for audio such that I can use the headphones with audio from inflight entertainment or a laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7924" RevisionGUID="409c0d0f-32db-4a53-891a-6abe0037bd22" CreationDate="2017-08-14T21:13:57.080" UserId="97" Text="Noise-canceling headphones with audio player" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7924" RevisionGUID="409c0d0f-32db-4a53-891a-6abe0037bd22" CreationDate="2017-08-14T21:13:57.080" UserId="97" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24855" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7922" RevisionGUID="dbfe34af-8b67-40a3-9d46-3c97e0a9f73a" CreationDate="2017-08-15T06:30:40.423" UserId="6618" Comment="Added budget" Text="I was all set to buy the One Plus 5 but realised that it doesn't support SD cards or have an FM radio. I looked at the Xiaomi Mi6 as well but that's similarly hobbled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a decent spec Android Nougat smartphone, 5&quot; display or bigger with SD card support and an active FM chip please?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget, as it's been asked below, is up to what those two phones would cost in the EU (€450-550)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7926" RevisionGUID="722f61d7-695e-4c0f-87c3-64b76b349310" CreationDate="2017-08-15T15:18:53.130" UserId="6808" Text="How can i efficiently use my dual monitor setup along with the same keyboard and mouse with dual machines, (Home Gaming pc and work laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sometimes i need to work from home using my work laptop, but i don't want to disconnect all the Hdmi cables and connect new mouse or keyboard from my existing PC setup &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i am thinking about plugging my laptop with usb 3.0 Docking station with multiple display outputs &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;current setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. LG 34&quot; Ultrawide with 2x thunderbolt, 2x hdmi, 1x Displayport (Display port is used by PC)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Acer 24&quot; monitor with 1 HDMI, 1 DVI, 1 VGA (HDMI used by PC)&#xD;&#xA; 3. [Logitech M720 wireless Mouse][1] (Bluetooth can pair up to 3 devices, easy to switch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need suggestion for [wireless multi-computer keyboard][2](mechanical gaming keyboard would be ideal) and good usb3.0 Docking station &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/m720-triathlon&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-Wireless-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01N5EVQ4Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502810174&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wireless%20mechanical%20keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24862" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7926" RevisionGUID="722f61d7-695e-4c0f-87c3-64b76b349310" CreationDate="2017-08-15T15:18:53.130" UserId="6808" Text="How can i use my dual monitor setup with my Home Desktop and also my work Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24863" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7926" RevisionGUID="722f61d7-695e-4c0f-87c3-64b76b349310" CreationDate="2017-08-15T15:18:53.130" UserId="6808" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7927" RevisionGUID="fb365f6e-ff12-40da-8cdc-189b7b19ba3f" CreationDate="2017-08-15T16:50:34.460" UserId="6475" Text="I'm having trouble finding anything that actually has all of the ports and connectors that (I think) you'll need, but I can explain how I would go about this. If you can get me specifics on what display outputs are available on your PC and laptop, as well as your monitor resolution and refresh rate, I'll take some time to find you the exact equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you want is a KVM switch, a mechanism designed to use one keyboard, mouse, and monitor (in your case two monitors) as a workstation that can dynamically swap between two computers. I recommend this over a standard dock for ease of use, flexible configurations, and preservation of desk surface real estate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You've basically got two approaches. One is expensive and the other is somewhat convoluted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That site is a good place to start, they make high end switches and they're just about the only company I can find that even does digital video formats or dual monitor outputs in any significant capacity. Almost everything else I've been able to pull up has been either analog (VGA) or DVI with maybe a few DVI-Dual Links in there. The downside of this approach is that you're probably going to drop $200+ on this solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other method you could use would be to downgrade your cable connections to DVI (or whatever you can find that is compatible) and get two cheap units that handle single monitor outputs. This is still likely to run you $60+. There's also a concern about what resolution and refresh rate you're running at, as each type of cable has a ceiling on how much data it can transfer and thus what resolutions and frame rates it is capable of transmitting. I haven't found any single monitor HDMI or DisplayPort boxes that were cheap enough to consider over the StarTech products linked above, but you may have more luck. I searched Amazon, Newegg, and PCPartPicker if you were curious. Office Depot or Office Max might be worth a try.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PLEASE KEEP IN MIND: Most of these KVM switches do not come with extra cables, so plan your layout and figure out the types and lengths of cables you will need beforehand and order them alongside your KVM solution. This will save you headaches and irritation and time waiting for shipping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, if you want to reply with those related specs that I mentioned above, I can find some time before Friday to help you hunt down specific hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboards are really up to you. If you don't mind a 60% board I can recommend an Anne Pro, I have one for work and love it; however, I haven't used it for gaming since it has a tiny layout and red switches. I can confirm though that it has built-in bluetooth (comes with dongle for non-BT devices) and hotkey device swapping for up to four connected devices, so it would fit your requirements there. Bonus points for being under $100 and having quality RGB because colors are fun. If that doesn't catch your eye, I know that Filco also has some good offerings, and CODE keyboards are always worth a look as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The subreddit for mechanical keyboards has this wiki page listing wireless options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/wireless-mechanical_keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also search around on that forum to see what other people have used and what they liked/disliked, it's an active community with a good amount of content." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24866" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7720" RevisionGUID="0431f7f3-64ee-4da2-a189-e3e82249deb2" CreationDate="2017-08-15T17:13:50.447" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7928" RevisionGUID="408f4748-ff03-4308-adab-1b319317193c" CreationDate="2017-08-15T17:40:42.907" UserId="6475" Text="Here is a recommendation I gave for the Anne Pro. It hits your check boxes and it's a nice board in my experience, although some minor configuration is required and a little dielectric grease on the stabilizers is warranted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7633/6475&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll shorten it up for your specific question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This doesn't hit all of your checkboxes, but I like it quite a bit so I'll throw in a recommendation for an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard. I picked one up a few weeks ago because the robber dome boards at work were hurting my fingers. It's a pretty great board, but I'll go through your concerns so you have a decent rundown. For background, I've also got a K70 at home (cherry browns) and I went with cherry reds on my Anne. (EDIT: This board actually comes with gateron switches, not original cherry switches.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Low price (&lt;=100 EUR) since this will my secondary keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usually runs about $80 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Blue (or green) switches (Cherry)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gateron switches, offered in blue, brown, and red.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- en-gb keyboard layout&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are three preset layouts and one that you can customize entirely, including the Fn layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Media keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The board does support macro functions through the app, and I've seen plenty of people talk about using media macros. The function is currently broken in firmware 1.4 (current version), but should be fixed for 1.5 before the year is out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stuff you should know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They've got a subreddit with guides for everything to do with this keyboard if you decide to get it. Firmware update and app installation (needed for the custom preset, I haven't done it yet that's happening this week) are a bit of a pain from the looks of things, but not too bad. There is no physical power switch. The company says you can just disable bluetooth and RGB and that will put the board into a kind of sleep mode, but you'll notice on that sub that a lot of people install physical switches to kill power and avoid accidental key presses while carrying the keyboard in a bag and having it connected to a mobile device like your phone. The mod looks easy and I'll probably end up doing it myself, most people say it takes less than an hour.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not a perfect board but I'm liking it an awful lot. Amazon has the red switches version in stock here: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498494412&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=anne+pro+keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask any questions if I missed anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just going to throw in a quick mention for CODE boards, as those are also highly rated and very popular for programming. They were the primary competition to the Anne Pro among keyboards I was looking at, and while I ended up not going with them they're a respectable company and may have something closer to the form factor that you're looking for, if that's an important enough concern for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a pretty solid little board, I like it a lot." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24872" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7504" RevisionGUID="acd41bc9-9494-45a6-abe3-b12d514557d5" CreationDate="2017-08-15T18:14:13.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24876" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7931" RevisionGUID="ecbf8a9a-9918-4031-a5b1-60327e6ea7eb" CreationDate="2017-08-15T22:34:20.440" UserId="6634" Text="Because of the shortage of AMD Vega cards. I have decide to move to a smaller video card upgrade now and wait on getting one of those Vega cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at pick up at a store close to Houston, Texas if possible. Fry's electronic or Micro Center or maybe best buy something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am only willing to spend up to $200 at the most for a PCI-E card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find one that isn't a side-grade or worse perform than what I have in my current PC. It is a GTX 660.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that most GTX upgrade ending up being too similar to GTX 660 and not having enough of an incentive to buy those at $200 or under. Am I wrong?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24877" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7931" RevisionGUID="ecbf8a9a-9918-4031-a5b1-60327e6ea7eb" CreationDate="2017-08-15T22:34:20.440" UserId="6634" Text="Temporarily GPU Suggestion Purchase" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24878" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7931" RevisionGUID="ecbf8a9a-9918-4031-a5b1-60327e6ea7eb" CreationDate="2017-08-15T22:34:20.440" UserId="6634" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24880" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="b49717be-e8b4-4df1-bd67-f09d88ba5db6" CreationDate="2017-08-16T02:18:08.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24882" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7932" RevisionGUID="f70591e8-353b-4b33-a1cb-3e6e08e9bf9a" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:04:19.757" UserId="6811" Text="I am working on a Robot-project where a sub task is have to check how many and which RFID-tags are placed in a bucket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Multiple tags will be placed into the bucket - so I run into the problem with RFID-tags colliding with each other. The reader will be connected and programmed via Raspberry Pi. From my research so far I have come up with the following 3 options: &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz7x1.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1** RFID reader at the buttom of the bucket. This has to be a reader able to read the multiple tags at the same time, since the tags will be laying on top of each other. Example of reader: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2** RFID reader on the side of the bucket. Should read the tags passing by as they are thrown into the bucket. Would not required that the RFID reader is able to read multiple tags at once, but the reading should be fast enough to catch them passing by. Example of reader: ADAFRUIT PN532 NFC/RFID &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3** Same concept as 2 but minimizing the space and using slides to hopefully give a bit longer time for reading the tags. Example of reader: Same as in 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aiming for the most simple and most secure solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How would you guys do this, and what kind of RFID hardware would you recommend to go with the Raspberry Pi connection. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24883" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7932" RevisionGUID="f70591e8-353b-4b33-a1cb-3e6e08e9bf9a" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:04:19.757" UserId="6811" Text="RFID solution for reading multiple tags" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24884" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7932" RevisionGUID="f70591e8-353b-4b33-a1cb-3e6e08e9bf9a" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:04:19.757" UserId="6811" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7933" RevisionGUID="99fd28f4-ff30-41da-84bf-6b89775e0840" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:05:57.617" UserId="6720" Text="A used GTX 1060 6GB or a new GTX 1060 3GB would be a lot faster than your GTX 660&#xD;&#xA;http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1771&#xD;&#xA;Or a Radeon 470 (prices are high now, but it was selling for $140-$160 not long ago)&#xD;&#xA;http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1872&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you might as well be patient.." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24886" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="a5e7fe51-a80a-4b40-9db8-ce7393794fa1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:23:26.357" UserId="5445" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="When the Voice over IP (VoIP) company Ooma started, it sold a VoIP home phone that enabled free unlimited calling.  But as it grew, it started charging a variety of monthly fees and taxes, although it grandfathered in people who bought the original product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, are there any VoIP home phones that really do what Ooma started off doing, i.e. enable free unlimited calling with absolutely no monthly or annual fees or taxes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7934" RevisionGUID="017f6204-c97f-4ef2-baf4-353fed1b0526" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:39:07.577" UserId="6812" Text="I am looking for a monitor of 16 inches or less, that could get conected to my laptop and using it as a second screen.I don't mind if it is portable or not, but I would like it to be touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that screen of this kind are [available][1] for Raspberr Pi. But is it possible to use this kind of screens as second screen for a laptop? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody knows any other screen that could be used the way I explained?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.elecrow.com/wiki/index.php?title=HDMI_Interface_5_Inch_800x480_TFT_Display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7934" RevisionGUID="017f6204-c97f-4ef2-baf4-353fed1b0526" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:39:07.577" UserId="6812" Text="Small monitor for laptop with touchscreen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7934" RevisionGUID="017f6204-c97f-4ef2-baf4-353fed1b0526" CreationDate="2017-08-16T10:39:07.577" UserId="6812" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24896" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="5a35cbb3-e63c-4458-84a6-e166b08fe240" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:21:33.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7937" RevisionGUID="833fbe11-00b4-4b29-9422-5c16958bb59b" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:24:11.430" UserId="5740" Text="Seeing as your budget supports it, I would recommend the Motorola Moto G5 or the G5 Plus. If you are looking even better that that, the the Motorola Moto Z is pretty good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason why I suggest Motorola is because they have NO bloatware and they are fast, very fast. Most of them come standard with multiple gbs of RAM, top end processors etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are also very good value for money. For buying, just Google the make and model, and put &quot;sim free&quot; at the end, unless you intend to buy from the high street.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If these options don't suit you, I would suggest using www.gsmarena.com and specify what you want in their advanced search." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24898" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7938" RevisionGUID="027657d1-f5f7-4cb7-88d2-437472871a67" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:38:49.950" UserId="6815" Text="Is there a PC laptop without air vents in the bottom, just like the Macbooks? I've always found those lame; How am I supposed to use it on the top of my lap if I must keep the air vents clear? I actually moved to Mac just because of that. But I'd really like to know if there's a PC option. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24899" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7938" RevisionGUID="027657d1-f5f7-4cb7-88d2-437472871a67" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:38:49.950" UserId="6815" Text="PC laptop without vents in the bottom?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24900" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7938" RevisionGUID="027657d1-f5f7-4cb7-88d2-437472871a67" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:38:49.950" UserId="6815" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24901" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7939" RevisionGUID="fa677fee-f4aa-44bc-b453-b9831cf9307f" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:47:11.377" UserId="5740" Text="It so happens that there is a software only way to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was watching LinusTechTips and they were advertising this software on their end of video sponsor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software is called [Synergy](https://symless.com/synergy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works by creating some sort of local network and communicating over your own computers, making the experience very, very fast. The benefits of this over a hardware KVM switch is that this software is as low as $19, depending on the option you pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The $19 option](https://symless.com/synergy/pricing) would be perfectly suitable for your needs, other options are encryption over the network, and unless your network is already insecure, you dont really need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this is a suitable suggestion for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7939" RevisionGUID="e6d07c8a-381b-4697-a018-645b50c5ec79" CreationDate="2017-08-16T17:26:57.700" UserId="5740" Comment="addition to content" Text="It so happens that there is a software only way to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was watching LinusTechTips and they were advertising this software on their end of video sponsor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software is called [Synergy](https://symless.com/synergy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works by creating some sort of local network and communicating over your own computers, making the experience very, very fast. The benefits of this over a hardware KVM switch is that this is software (not hardware duh ;)) and it is priced as low as $19, depending on the option you pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The $19 option](https://symless.com/synergy/pricing) would be perfectly suitable for your needs, other options are encryption over the network, and unless your network is already insecure, you dont really need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As per your concern below, it runs on both wireless and wired connections!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this is a suitable suggestion for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24904" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7835" RevisionGUID="8e175eb4-3134-4503-9e10-27d4cddb2871" CreationDate="2017-08-16T17:45:07.970" UserId="5740" Comment="61" />
  <row Id="24905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7940" RevisionGUID="6ff08fae-e9c6-4f53-865e-375b705dae48" CreationDate="2017-08-16T17:55:20.710" UserId="6475" Text="&gt;So small and simple, but you can use this display with any computer that has HDMI output, and the shape makes it easy to attach to a electronic product. Although the 800x480 common HDMI display is made for Raspberry Pi, we can use it other where not only for Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Description of the product from your link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That product will work with any computer, provided it has an HDMI output." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7941" RevisionGUID="d53094e7-f6a4-403f-89fb-386e151add08" CreationDate="2017-08-16T20:44:30.030" UserId="6816" Text="I'm looking for a high refresh rate IPS monitor. It should have no problems with text clarity, because it will be used not only for gaming/entertainment, but for web browsing and reading also. This test helps to make sure the monitor has correct sharpness and does not apply any artificial blurring or sharpening filters, which may make fonts look worse: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already done a small research about some other models, and it turns out they fail the test: see this [reddit post][1] for details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to test your monitor, it's essential for Lagom test image to display 1:1, so make sure DPI scaling in OS, and zoom in web browser are set to 100%, and nothing in the system scales/resizes the picture or applies some artificial blur/sharpening filter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be interesting to know if ASUS PG279Q, AOC AG271QG, LG 34UC79G or any other model with similar specs pass or fail the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/6sojee/any_120_hz_ips_monitors_which_pass_lagomnl/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24907" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7941" RevisionGUID="d53094e7-f6a4-403f-89fb-386e151add08" CreationDate="2017-08-16T20:44:30.030" UserId="6816" Text="144 Hz IPS monitor which pass Lagom.nl Sharpness test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24908" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7941" RevisionGUID="d53094e7-f6a4-403f-89fb-386e151add08" CreationDate="2017-08-16T20:44:30.030" UserId="6816" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24909" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7941" RevisionGUID="629aa1c4-4af7-4e2b-8520-b092b6f51c9a" CreationDate="2017-08-16T20:54:18.543" UserId="6816" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a high refresh rate IPS monitor. It should have no problems with text clarity, because it will be used not only for gaming/entertainment, but for web browsing and reading also. This test helps to check if the monitor has correct sharpness and does not apply any artificial blurring or sharpening filters, which may make fonts look worse: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already done a small research about some other models, and it turns out they fail the test: see this [reddit post][1] for details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to test your monitor, it's essential for Lagom test image to display 1:1, so make sure DPI scaling in OS, and zoom in web browser are set to 100%, and nothing in the system scales/resizes the picture or applies some artificial blur/sharpening filter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be interesting to know if ASUS PG279Q, AOC AG271QG, LG 34UC79G or any other model with similar specs pass or fail the test.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/6sojee/any_120_hz_ips_monitors_which_pass_lagomnl/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7942" RevisionGUID="250c39f1-aec3-4e98-9f6a-9902e0683ef8" CreationDate="2017-08-16T21:04:17.543" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Well, the short answer is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Yes**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This list might help: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ultrabookreview.com/6520-fanless-ultrabooks/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a detailed list of laptops that are of a fanless design and would be more in line with what you are asking about.  However, without more details a proper recommendation is hard to give.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disclaimer: This really isn't a proper answer either, but the question really isn't about hardware recommendations and more a general question that would be easily researched." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24911" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7073" RevisionGUID="44e247ce-cea8-4bfd-964a-5c96d83b405b" CreationDate="2017-08-16T22:24:24.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7943" RevisionGUID="898f9a3c-138b-41ee-9ab3-112584cd6b5d" CreationDate="2017-08-17T05:05:11.460" UserId="6820" Text="I have a Dell Inspiron 5558 with following configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5 5250U 1.6GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - NVidia 920M 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - Windows 10 Updated to latest stable&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB 5400 RPM WD HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the problem is, I can't use my laptops full potential due to limited read-write speed of HDD. To solve it, I want to upgrade my HDD to SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is my laptop compatible to upgrade to SSD ?&#xD;&#xA; 2. What dimensions of SSD will be compatible ? &#xD;&#xA; 3. Which SSD will be best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindly help me upgrade my rig. Thanks :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24913" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7943" RevisionGUID="898f9a3c-138b-41ee-9ab3-112584cd6b5d" CreationDate="2017-08-17T05:05:11.460" UserId="6820" Text="Upgrade HDD to SSD for Dell Inspiron 5558" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24914" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7943" RevisionGUID="898f9a3c-138b-41ee-9ab3-112584cd6b5d" CreationDate="2017-08-17T05:05:11.460" UserId="6820" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7944" RevisionGUID="a05da44a-417b-42c5-9bbe-015387568306" CreationDate="2017-08-17T06:05:49.040" UserId="273" Text="Please note, this is answer is for the Dell Inspiron **15**-5558, which hopefully is the same as the OP has.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is my laptop compatible to upgrade to SSD ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Yes**, as you can see in the following picture, the drive positioning was clearly designed to make the drive easily replacable.&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD in the case image][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[source: NotebookCheck.com (German)][2]&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What dimensions of SSD will be compatible ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The article][2] from which the image is, claims that a [Toshiba MQ01ABD100][3] is used which is a 2.5 inch HDD, therefore you need a (standard) 2.5 inch SATA-SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Which SSD will be best ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My default recommendation here is the [**Samsung SSD 850 Evo 1TB** for 340USD on amazon.com][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two reasons to pick a different drive:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **You want to write _a lot_ to your drive**, that is more than 60-80GB on average _per day_ for the next few years, then you want to use the **Pro** version of the above SSD which while having the same write-limit warranty, uses SSD technology more resistant to overwrite damage (MLC vs TLC).&#xD;&#xA; - **You don't want to pay as much because you don't need as much storage**, in which case you can simply go with a smaller drive (they come in the full range from 256GB to 4TB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3H3tD.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-Dell-Inspiron-15-5558-Notebook.145255.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AYVNMQ/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRFFAS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24923" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7946" RevisionGUID="abc42164-bfe4-4c55-841c-e037cd6eab62" CreationDate="2017-08-17T12:21:40.213" UserId="6822" Text="I am a research student and I received a NVIDIA Titan Xp graphics card from NVIDIA as a research grant. However, the IT department in my department says that the gpu is can not be put inside any of our existing systems. So, I have decided to buy a system myself. But I am confused about what should I buy since there are so many factors to consider for example cooling, power requirement. Also, since I am buying this myself I don't want to cross 1000 euro. Can you please provide me some suggestions. Please keep in mind that my focus is on high-performance computing, this system will not be used for any other purpose.&#xD;&#xA;Also, this is my first question on this site and I have very limited knowledge of hardware, so if something is not right or require more information please let me know, don't downvote.&#xD;&#xA;I appreciate your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24924" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7946" RevisionGUID="abc42164-bfe4-4c55-841c-e037cd6eab62" CreationDate="2017-08-17T12:21:40.213" UserId="6822" Text="Hardware selection for NVIDIA Titan Xp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24925" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7946" RevisionGUID="abc42164-bfe4-4c55-841c-e037cd6eab62" CreationDate="2017-08-17T12:21:40.213" UserId="6822" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24926" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7938" RevisionGUID="14c0c442-6cb5-42aa-8778-ebb5cbd629aa" CreationDate="2017-08-17T14:20:54.950" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:313,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Dawny33&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="24934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7949" RevisionGUID="f7d4c019-0593-49c7-9f40-67acd29ef6b1" CreationDate="2017-08-17T19:22:48.153" UserId="6787" Text="I am bit late though thought of sharing the idea of renting [MacInCloud][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above company offers Mac rentals starting at $1 per hour and $20.00 per month which is more than sufficient for individual mobile app developers like me. It is not worth spending money on buying a mac machine. Please follow the link for further details, it offers comprehensive plans for advanced users as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://portal.macincloud.com/select/#/plans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24937" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="c371159c-afe0-448e-a06a-cdabe6225bae" CreationDate="2017-08-17T23:52:28.097" UserId="-1" Comment="60" />
  <row Id="24938" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="9e3b7c9b-9837-4711-adb2-7ffd12f3bd03" CreationDate="2017-08-18T01:52:28.193" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24943" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7939" RevisionGUID="29f749e0-b50e-44bb-89d7-75403a60adb3" CreationDate="2017-08-18T06:17:55.740" UserId="5740" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="It so happens that there is a software only way to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was watching LinusTechTips and they were advertising this software on their end of video sponsor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The software is called [Synergy](https://symless.com/synergy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually works by creating some sort of local network and communicating over your own computers, making the experience very, very fast. The benefits of this over a hardware KVM switch is that this is software (not hardware duh ;)) and it is priced as low as $19, depending on the option you pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The $19 option](https://symless.com/synergy/pricing) would be perfectly suitable for your needs, other options are encryption over the network, and unless your network is already insecure, you dont really need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As per a concern below, it runs on both wireless and wired connections!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this is a suitable suggestion for you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7952" RevisionGUID="8882b382-a39e-4174-9ea2-7ff6ec2a88cd" CreationDate="2017-08-18T12:16:01.573" UserId="6826" Text="I want a laptop to work on 3D (Blender, mainly). My budget is between 1000 and 1500e. Any recommendation? Mi biggest problem with laptops have always been heat, so I'm looking for one that can render for 6-7 hours without turning off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How good can be a Macbook Pro to work on 3D? Can I have any problem when exporting any blender file made in Windows into a Mac?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7952" RevisionGUID="8882b382-a39e-4174-9ea2-7ff6ec2a88cd" CreationDate="2017-08-18T12:16:01.573" UserId="6826" Text="Laptop [1000 - 1500e] for 3D modeling, animating and rendering on Blender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7952" RevisionGUID="8882b382-a39e-4174-9ea2-7ff6ec2a88cd" CreationDate="2017-08-18T12:16:01.573" UserId="6826" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7953" RevisionGUID="f0bb7dd8-4fae-4154-8def-a02f166828ab" CreationDate="2017-08-18T13:58:36.763" UserId="6828" Text="I am to purchase a laptop today. I have narrowed down to 2 choices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* An [Acer](https://www.flipkart.com/acer-nitro-5-core-i7-7th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-an515-51-gaming-laptop/p/itmev4sgheh3pvxg?pid=COMEV4SGYG7HM6QP) laptop with 16 GB RAM (expandable to 32 GB) and with GTX 1050 4 GB graphics processor. &#xD;&#xA;* A [Del](https://www.flipkart.com/dell-inspiron-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-windows-10-home-4-gb-graphics-7567-gaming-laptop/p/itmeszyxanehpss7?pid=COMESZYXCHKY4Z3C&amp;lid=LSTCOMESZYXCHKY4Z3CA2IR3Q) laptop with 8 GB RAM (expandable to 16GB) but with GTX 1050Ti 4GB graphics processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking for a product review. I just need some technical idea about which one would be better. The prices are almost the same. The Acer has a 128GB SSD in addition to a 1TB HDD. But I am willing to compromise on that if 1050Ti with 8 GB RAM will give me substantially good performance compared with 1050 with 16GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that the 1050Ti has better performance. I need to know how much of a difference the RAM will make while playing moderate - high end games" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24953" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7953" RevisionGUID="f0bb7dd8-4fae-4154-8def-a02f166828ab" CreationDate="2017-08-18T13:58:36.763" UserId="6828" Text="Which configuration do I choose for my laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24954" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7953" RevisionGUID="f0bb7dd8-4fae-4154-8def-a02f166828ab" CreationDate="2017-08-18T13:58:36.763" UserId="6828" Text="&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7953" RevisionGUID="1315a000-8b38-44e0-90a4-3eaa83014bae" CreationDate="2017-08-18T14:49:22.510" UserId="6828" Comment="deleted 199 characters in body" Text="I am to purchase a laptop today. I have narrowed down to 2 choices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* An [Acer](https://www.flipkart.com/acer-nitro-5-core-i7-7th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-an515-51-gaming-laptop/p/itmev4sgheh3pvxg?pid=COMEV4SGYG7HM6QP) laptop with 16 GB RAM (expandable to 32 GB) and with GTX 1050 4 GB graphics processor. &#xD;&#xA;* A [Del](https://www.flipkart.com/dell-inspiron-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-windows-10-home-4-gb-graphics-7567-gaming-laptop/p/itmeszyxanehpss7?pid=COMESZYXCHKY4Z3C&amp;lid=LSTCOMESZYXCHKY4Z3CA2IR3Q) laptop with 8 GB RAM (expandable to 16GB) but with GTX 1050Ti 4GB graphics processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The prices are almost the same. The Acer has a 128GB SSD in addition to a 1TB HDD. But I am willing to compromise on that **IF** 1050Ti with 8 GB RAM will give me substantially good performance compared with 1050 with 16GB RAM while playing heavy games (GTA V, Skyrim, etc) and using development tools like Android Studio, etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24956" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7953" RevisionGUID="8faf7db5-8399-444d-a558-bb8cd696be11" CreationDate="2017-08-18T15:15:07.277" UserId="6828" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="I am to purchase a laptop today. I have narrowed down to 2 choices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* An [Acer](https://www.flipkart.com/acer-nitro-5-core-i7-7th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-an515-51-gaming-laptop/p/itmev4sgheh3pvxg?pid=COMEV4SGYG7HM6QP) laptop with 16 GB RAM (expandable to 32 GB) and with GTX 1050 4 GB graphics processor. &#xD;&#xA;* A [Del](https://www.flipkart.com/dell-inspiron-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-windows-10-home-4-gb-graphics-7567-gaming-laptop/p/itmeszyxanehpss7?pid=COMESZYXCHKY4Z3C&amp;lid=LSTCOMESZYXCHKY4Z3CA2IR3Q) laptop with 8 GB RAM (expandable to 16GB) but with GTX 1050Ti 4GB graphics processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The prices are almost the same. The Acer has a 128GB SSD in addition to a 1TB HDD. But I am willing to compromise on that **IF** 1050Ti with 8 GB RAM will give me substantially good performance compared with 1050 with 16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USAGE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Heavy gaming (2-3 hours per day) - GTA V, Witcher 3, Skyrim, etc.&#xD;&#xA;* Mobile application development (1-2 hours per day) - Android Studio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7954" RevisionGUID="8c342d25-2cf3-4efe-b1a1-367c342c5022" CreationDate="2017-08-18T16:14:05.060" UserId="527" Text="I have over 300 paper documents.  Some are single-sided and many are double-sided.  I need to scan them into individual PDF files, with each file containing all the pages for each document (and only those pages).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to get this done quickly and efficiently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer automatic OCR as well, but this is not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also prefer a device that can also print, but that is also not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lower cost is preferred, but open to all options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware can accomplish this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7954" RevisionGUID="8c342d25-2cf3-4efe-b1a1-367c342c5022" CreationDate="2017-08-18T16:14:05.060" UserId="527" Text="Hardware that can scan double-sided paper documents into individual PDF files" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7954" RevisionGUID="8c342d25-2cf3-4efe-b1a1-367c342c5022" CreationDate="2017-08-18T16:14:05.060" UserId="527" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24960" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="ddccd8c9-26f2-4b08-b9a7-883078fa01c3" CreationDate="2017-08-18T18:11:18.123" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7955" RevisionGUID="f74cce1c-e2a4-48c8-b410-f8ec6d623fcd" CreationDate="2017-08-18T18:11:55.360" UserId="5740" Text="I would suggest the Acer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reasons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has an SSD which improves boot times.&#xD;&#xA;It comes stock with 16GB of RAM, which is the most you will ever need for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, some applications, including possibly Android Studio, will benefit from the extra RAM and the SSD speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the Acer, you get more bang for the buck without having to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seeing as the two GPUs both have 4GB of VRAM, I would imagine that the significance of performance is negligible, after all, these are not the top end of GPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24964" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="c3e51b2c-dbea-4192-8291-5dd19a727c1d" CreationDate="2017-08-19T06:19:26.320" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7956" RevisionGUID="b3c7e3c2-98f0-460d-ac6a-9fad2b120df8" CreationDate="2017-08-19T09:19:28.217" UserId="2059" Text="Since this question has been asked some time ago, I feel, I should update you on the...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&quot;Actual accepted solution&quot;***, see below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found, that [**M-Disc** (Millennial Disc)][1] technology could allegedly endure up to 1000 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I've bought some Blu-Ray writers, you can find their compatibility with M-Disc DVD/Blu-Ray 4.7/25/50/100 GB [on this page][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My final pick of the writer was:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS BW-16D1H-U PRO][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's noteworthy to say, that any Blu-Ray reader can read these M-Discs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.mdisc.com/m-ready/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/Optical-Drives-Storage/BW16D1HU_PRO/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24966" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="581b934d-1b16-46a1-889e-cba72dda77da" CreationDate="2017-08-19T12:21:44.097" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7957" RevisionGUID="aeefc272-f102-4c60-be40-b089b9e243df" CreationDate="2017-08-19T13:54:16.260" UserId="273" Text="&gt; Any recommendation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially, anything that has a Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or GTX 1080 will work for you. However due to your budget, finding a 1070-based model is more likely. The other caveats that you have to look out for are the 16GB of RAM that you specified, the SSD and that the CPU (most likely an Intel model) has **HQ** or **HK** at the end of the name and _not_ **U**, because the latter would indicate a dual-core CPU limited to 28W or 15W power-consumption as opposed to a quad-core at 45W. Any laptop that satisfies these above constraints should work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beyond that, note that you probably want to clean the fans every now and then (1x a month if you can) to make sure the air can flow and cool the system properly, so that you don't get reduced performance or sudden heat-caused shutdowns.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I have to, I'll make a generic recommendation fitting your budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **Asus ROG GL502VS-FY042T**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It features an Nvidia GTX 1070 GPU (-&gt; 8GB of VRAM) meaning it's about the best you can get from a 1500€ laptop&#xD;&#xA; - It features a standard quad-core 45W Skylake laptop CPU: the i7-6700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - It features 16GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - It features a 512GB SSD paired with a 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - It's priced at 1499€ (at least in Germany, should be similar in other european countries)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24968" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7958" RevisionGUID="7c271ee7-2b08-4ef9-90fb-ea9717d9ea20" CreationDate="2017-08-19T14:41:11.020" UserId="273" Text="There are a few key things you need to look out for: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You need 8-16GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - As the card draws 250W max and the rest of the system probably draws the same, you need a 600W+ PSU that has at least one 6 and one 8 pin power connector.&#xD;&#xA; - Your case needs to fit a 10.5&quot; long, double-height graphics card (which is a pretty standard size).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything else is essentially up to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I've picked a few parts (w/o OS, optical drives and peripherals, if you need them, this needs tweaking) as a generic recommendation satisfying the above constraints, highlights:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - an 8-core AMD Ryzen 7 processor&#xD;&#xA; - a 128GB Samsung PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - an all-in-one water cooling system for easier cleaning&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The part list:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FM9Hyf&#xD;&#xA;    Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FM9Hyf/by_merchant/&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor  ($329.59 @ SuperBiiz) &#xD;&#xA;    CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($54.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($99.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($111.99 @ Newegg) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($127.49 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.88 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Video Card: NVIDIA - Titan Xp 12GB Video Card &#xD;&#xA;    Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ B&amp;H) &#xD;&#xA;    Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.89 @ OutletPC) &#xD;&#xA;    Total: $930.71&#xD;&#xA;    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available&#xD;&#xA;    Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-19 10:20 EDT-0400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24969" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7954" RevisionGUID="59c4c5e9-3e53-42f2-a95b-c4cad53e97ff" CreationDate="2017-08-19T16:15:39.970" UserId="527" Comment="added 193 characters in body" Text="I have over 300 paper documents.  Some are single-sided and many are double-sided.  I need to scan them into individual PDF files, with each file containing all the pages for each document (and only those pages).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to get this done quickly and efficiently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer automatic OCR as well, but this is not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also prefer a device that can also print, but that is also not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lower cost is preferred, but open to all options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware can accomplish this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something that if the document is one sided, will only put one page in the PDF, or if it is double sided, will put both sides in the single PDF." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7959" RevisionGUID="36cf1dcd-ff3d-4983-a62c-cb7456db3904" CreationDate="2017-08-20T04:53:06.573" UserId="1812" Text="Yes you can, because they are just hard drive without a magnetic disk and spindle. They all are of same size 2.5&quot;, which can easily fit in your laptops HDD housing. &#xA;&#xA;If you've got DVD drive and you feel its not much used then get a DVD SSD Caddy. They come in 2 sizes which depends on your laptop. Bigger one sizes 12.7mm and the smaller sizes 9.5mm. This will allow you to run both the hardisks parallel.&#xA;&#xA;I got Acer 5830TG, loaded with 6gigs of ram, core i5, nvidia GT540m, Samsung EVO 850 120 GB as primary and Seagate 500 GB as secondary.&#xA;&#xA;Samsung EVO 850 is good in R/W performance. This one is a TLC flash equipped. Which can make a write of limit up to 95 TB but in this competition others stops at ~30 TB . At the same time other SSD manufacturers TLC's write speed performance can bring to their knees. They only go up to 30-90mb, hardly to reach the highest peak. But Samsung provides 500+ mb speed performance in R/W both. Which averages to 250mb to 300mb. That's really a great performance as compared to its competitor's in TLC range.&#xA;&#xA;we can push our self to spend extra bucks to get a quality product. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7960" RevisionGUID="1e114c7a-b97f-48f5-8f3e-5d584cfdb9ad" CreationDate="2017-08-20T05:07:39.433" UserId="1812" Text="Both the machines are upgradable to the same extent. &#xA;&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - SSD can be added.&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - More RAM can be added.&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - In mobile graphics **Ti** is not going to make any big difference.&#xA; &#xA; Now, Acer comes with the higher specs  in ram and SSD. Which extremely reflects your performance.&#xA;&#xA;Now buying is dependent on pricing of the machines. If Acer comes at the same cost of dell or slightly higher or lower then simply choose the Acer blind folded.&#xA;&#xA;Because 8 gig stick and a 128 SSD disk sums around INR 11k in India. Which is really a big amount.&#xA;&#xA;Then comes the brand, If you're not brand conscious, I hope you will pick the right one. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24972" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="715b48bc-fc4c-4791-9255-406455ef25fc" CreationDate="2017-08-20T08:37:27.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7961" RevisionGUID="7fb3f24f-371b-487d-83d0-274c727a73e5" CreationDate="2017-08-20T14:31:28.203" UserId="6835" Text="I am looking for a [2x8Go DDR RAM][1] below 150€ based on this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ASUS P8P67-M&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-2500K&#xD;&#xA;- GeForce GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the motherboard specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Dual-Channel DDR3 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1600(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does `O.C.` mean it will gracefully fallback to 1333MHz if not overclocked?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I pick the Kingston HyperX Fury HX313C9FBK2 DDR3 **1333MHz CL9** over HX318C10FBK2 DDR3 **1866MHz CL10** if compatible, or is there a more reliable manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing I got from [here][2] to compare RAM let me think I should unless I plan to overclock:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1866 Mhz / CL10 = 186.6&#xD;&#xA;    1333 Mhz / CL10 = 133.3&#xD;&#xA;    1333 Mhz / CL9  = 148.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, is 2x8Go reasonable or should I aim higher to be safe, knowing that I will have four slots?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_style_browse-bin_2?rh=n%3A340858031%2Cn%3A!340859031%2Cn%3A427941031%2Cn%3A430351031%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A4370880031%2Cp_n_style_browse-bin%3A199703031&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/questions/509824/which-ram-is-faster-1333-mhz-cl9-or-1600-mhz-cl10&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX318C10FRK2-16-M%C3%A9moire-1866MHz/dp/B00J8E8Y5C/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX313C9FBK2-16-M%C3%A9moire-1333MHz/dp/B00J8E91Z4/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7961" RevisionGUID="7fb3f24f-371b-487d-83d0-274c727a73e5" CreationDate="2017-08-20T14:31:28.203" UserId="6835" Text="RAM recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7961" RevisionGUID="7fb3f24f-371b-487d-83d0-274c727a73e5" CreationDate="2017-08-20T14:31:28.203" UserId="6835" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7962" RevisionGUID="0220ef38-d6a6-47f4-a899-00b1e0b3e7b6" CreationDate="2017-08-20T15:42:25.737" UserId="5740" Text="Please see my [accepted answer here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7874/asrock-fatal1ty-motherboard-x370-memory-support) for an overview of XMP and OC in relation to memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3](https://www.amazon.fr/Corsair-CMY16GX3M2A1600C9R-Vengeance-ordinateur-performante/dp/B00D5XAN06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503243259&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=CMY16GX3M2A1600C9&amp;th=1) memory is probably a good choice for you. It comes in varying colors, which are all roughly around 150 EUR, or the Red version, which is 130 EUR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the RAM that I actually have in my personal machine, and I have never had any issues whatsoever. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you are set on purchasing the HyperX brand, then take the faster RAM speeds incase you want to use the XMP functionality at a later date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM is expensive at the moment so around 8GB per DIMM should be fine for future upgrades." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7961" RevisionGUID="245b4292-d300-4b2b-b64f-b77f9c30dc1b" CreationDate="2017-08-20T15:44:43.797" UserId="6835" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a [2x8Go DDR3 RAM][1] below ~150€ based on this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ASUS P8P67-M&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-2500K&#xD;&#xA;- GeForce GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the motherboard specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Dual-Channel DDR3 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1600(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does `O.C.` mean it will gracefully fallback to 1333MHz if not overclocked?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I pick the Kingston HyperX Fury HX313C9FBK2 DDR3 **1333MHz CL9** over HX318C10FBK2 DDR3 **1866MHz CL10** if compatible, or is there a more reliable manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing I got from [here][2] to compare RAM let me think I should unless I plan to overclock:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1866 Mhz / CL10 = 186.6&#xD;&#xA;    1333 Mhz / CL10 = 133.3&#xD;&#xA;    1333 Mhz / CL9  = 148.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, is 2x8Go reasonable or should I aim higher to be safe, knowing that I will have four slots?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_style_browse-bin_2?rh=n%3A340858031%2Cn%3A!340859031%2Cn%3A427941031%2Cn%3A430351031%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A4370880031%2Cp_n_style_browse-bin%3A199703031&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/questions/509824/which-ram-is-faster-1333-mhz-cl9-or-1600-mhz-cl10&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX318C10FRK2-16-M%C3%A9moire-1866MHz/dp/B00J8E8Y5C/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX313C9FBK2-16-M%C3%A9moire-1333MHz/dp/B00J8E91Z4/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24987" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="c1fae073-34de-44e3-955b-df8c2bdd6002" CreationDate="2017-08-21T11:44:04.940" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="24991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7969" RevisionGUID="cec98ae4-76da-41e2-be82-576ec7d76b97" CreationDate="2017-08-21T13:38:09.140" UserId="6802" Text="Would a professional GPU or gaming GPU be better for light gaming? Or do I even need a GPU? I plan on playing &quot;retro&quot; games (read: games with retro graphics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Game List (currently, may expand in the future):  &#xD;&#xA;- Super Hexagon  &#xD;&#xA;- Race the Sun  &#xD;&#xA;- Boson X  &#xD;&#xA;- Halcyon 6&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do &quot;retro&quot; games rely more on CPU or GPU power. Also which card would be more compatible? I run a varient of GNU/Linux, Ubuntu Budgie, a derivative of Ubuntu which is a derivative of Debian&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCPartPicker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rtvXcc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please Note that I am pushing the limits of my budget currently" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7969" RevisionGUID="cec98ae4-76da-41e2-be82-576ec7d76b97" CreationDate="2017-08-21T13:38:09.140" UserId="6802" Text="Professional Cards for Light Gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7969" RevisionGUID="cec98ae4-76da-41e2-be82-576ec7d76b97" CreationDate="2017-08-21T13:38:09.140" UserId="6802" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24994" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7970" RevisionGUID="cf495d65-8c80-4fb0-9bc2-e6f66e34b419" CreationDate="2017-08-21T14:45:35.547" UserId="273" Text="&gt; Would a professional GPU or gaming GPU be better for light gaming?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll list the key differences between professional and gaming GPUs so you ccan better understand what you need and why:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Professional GPUs are _much_ more expensive&#xD;&#xA; - They come with error-checking and correcting VRAM (slower, more relieable even though faults are rare)&#xD;&#xA; - They come with special drivers which have special boosts for certain creative programs&#xD;&#xA; - They support 10-bit color output via OpenGL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you don't care about the last three points, it is a gaming GPU for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Or do I even need a GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have picked two Intel Xeon E5s. These _do not_ come with a graphics chip on the die, so you will need a dedicated GPU if you don't want atrocious graphics performance, which will be _really annoying_ even for light desktop activity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Do &quot;retro&quot; games rely more on CPU or GPU power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd say they rely less on the GPU than modern games, however you don't need to worry about the CPU with your current configuration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the games and it seems like you need a graphics card that has like 1GB of VRAM to be good in all of them. Depending on the offers you can find, something like a 750, a 950 or a 1050 should all be able to do the job well, these cards are about 100 USD on amazon, so you can probably find them a little bit cheaper elsewhere." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25002" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="459" RevisionGUID="4d21d053-2c69-4796-83b2-dca3464b20da" CreationDate="2017-08-22T11:13:46.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7973" RevisionGUID="45cb6c72-8b01-4eda-b03e-9fe6f8ed4b81" CreationDate="2017-08-22T18:32:23.487" UserId="6847" Text="I am developing a product that incorporates various sensors and actuators, and also a monitoring display (5&quot; 800x480 TFT LCD HDMI).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have everything figured out with an Arduino handling all sensors/actuators and a Raspberry Pi Zero for WiFi and graphical output, but I need to think ahead for a potential mass production where raspberry pi zero is not available for bulk order...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GR8 C.H.I.P. Pro does not have good support for displays neither. The old C.H.I.P. would have been perfect but it has been discontinued.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25007" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7973" RevisionGUID="45cb6c72-8b01-4eda-b03e-9fe6f8ed4b81" CreationDate="2017-08-22T18:32:23.487" UserId="6847" Text="Choice of single-board computer for video output in embedded system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25008" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7973" RevisionGUID="45cb6c72-8b01-4eda-b03e-9fe6f8ed4b81" CreationDate="2017-08-22T18:32:23.487" UserId="6847" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25009" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7974" RevisionGUID="5a5e93ab-c614-4e53-a0d0-b096dbb10297" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:05:50.283" UserId="6848" Text="I am looking at buying a laptop for uni. Most of uni stuff won't need a very good specs but I also want to play a few games on it. The laptop I am looking at has a choice of Intel Core i7-7500U 2.7GHz or Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5GHz processors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs £50 more for the i7, **so my question is it worth it, and also if the newest intel processors are worth getting** (I believe the 2 listed above were released in autumn 2016, and there have been more released early this year- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Core). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25010" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7974" RevisionGUID="5a5e93ab-c614-4e53-a0d0-b096dbb10297" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:05:50.283" UserId="6848" Text="Choosing an Intel processor (i7/i5)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25011" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7974" RevisionGUID="5a5e93ab-c614-4e53-a0d0-b096dbb10297" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:05:50.283" UserId="6848" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="4e158932-045d-4f40-8d5e-03e19b53ef56" CreationDate="2017-08-22T20:19:37.753" UserId="6849" Text="I'm buying a new smartphone, and I wanna make a smart decission about it. I want the best for the price, but I don't wanna read a bunch of reivews...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm buying at a price range of Samsung J3, but it can be any other model...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know should I go for some top brands like Samsung, or try with something like GM or Alcatel. I mean, why are GM and Alcatel so cheap, are they really low quality or...? I don't believe it's low quality, GM is Google right, does that mean it's gotta be good since it's from Google?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung offers much less for the price than GM, Alcatel and Cubot, why is that so, is Samsung overrated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy from GM or Alcatel without fear that it will break soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't found a single review GM 4G and Lenovo K10a40...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the store where I'll be buying, it's Croatian, but you'll understand, I'm looking at about 1000 kn price range. 1 kn is about 7 USD.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/komunikacije/gsm.aspx#page=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25013" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="4e158932-045d-4f40-8d5e-03e19b53ef56" CreationDate="2017-08-22T20:19:37.753" UserId="6849" Text="Buying new smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25014" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="4e158932-045d-4f40-8d5e-03e19b53ef56" CreationDate="2017-08-22T20:19:37.753" UserId="6849" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7974" RevisionGUID="c9c7728f-88ee-4a47-9a37-dee3cafe0085" CreationDate="2017-08-22T21:11:21.180" UserId="6848" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking at buying a laptop for uni. Most of uni stuff won't need very good specs but I also want to play a few games on it. The laptop I am looking at has a choice of Intel Core i7-7500U 2.7GHz or Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5GHz processors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs £50 more for the i7, **so my question is it worth it, and also if the newest intel processors are worth getting** (I believe the 2 listed above were released in autumn 2016, and there have been more released earlier this year- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Core). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25016" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="73dac6d7-5ba4-416a-9050-6b795c3b5a0f" CreationDate="2017-08-22T23:13:45.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7976" RevisionGUID="63836eeb-f28e-48a3-b073-4bea6befab20" CreationDate="2017-08-23T00:06:20.413" UserId="1329" Text="In general if you can afford the £50 more and it doesn't hurt much then you're going to get this much more performance, or let's say £25 worth more performance if you want to be a bit more critical about Intel's pricing model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a comparison of both models on Intel's site: https://ark.intel.com/en/compare/95443,95451&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is just a difference in clock speed, but if you have workloads where a little extra performance matters and you can process more data in the same mount of time or get work done a tad quicker then that may be worth £50 and depending on the maker and model the resale value may be a bit higher (well, I doubt it is in this case, I was thinking of Macs, ProBooks and Thinkpads). It won't make a notable difference with regards to gaming, authoring office/tex documents or compiling typical student programming projects. Workloads like complex/slow video/image analysis and encoding or compiling lots of big software projects (like a lot of Linux packages from source) will benefit a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chassis looks fine from what I can tell, there should be little risk that the faster processor overheats and becomes slower than the other chip as has happened on some bad (ultrabook) designs in the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are looking for the best performance and you can wait a little longer than you may want to look for the recently announced Intel 8000 series processors. The iGPU was re-branded from HD to UHD but is mostly the same (expect only very tiny refinements, if at all) but all of the announced models have 4 cores and 8 threads instead of 2 cores and 4 threads as the i5/i7-7000 series mobile processors have. But you will have to wait a few weeks or probably months for these to be available in updated products and the initial prices will be higher than these offers for a while." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25025" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="a0a6c551-b7d0-46d1-9097-07b9a900043e" CreationDate="2017-08-23T11:55:12.017" UserId="6849" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm buying a new smartphone, and I wanna make a smart decission about it. I want the best for the price, but I don't wanna read a bunch of reivews...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm buying at a price range of Samsung J3, but it can be any other model...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know should I go for some top brands like Samsung, or try with something like GM or Alcatel. I mean, why are GM and Alcatel so cheap, are they really low quality or...? I don't believe it's low quality, GM is Google right, does that mean it's gotta be good since it's from Google?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung offers much less for the price than GM, Alcatel and Cubot, why is that so, is Samsung overrated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy from GM or Alcatel without fear that it will break soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't found a single review GM 4G and Lenovo K10a40...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the store where I'll be buying, it's Croatian, but you'll understand, I'm looking at about 1000 kn price range. 7 USD is about 1kn.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/komunikacije/gsm.aspx#page=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="fd776b36-e0cd-480e-9c56-130424bf900f" CreationDate="2017-08-23T11:59:01.907" UserId="273" Comment="finally fxed the conversion" Text="I'm buying a new smartphone, and I wanna make a smart decission about it. I want the best for the price, but I don't wanna read a bunch of reivews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm buying at a price range of Samsung J3, but it can be any other model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know should I go for some top brands like Samsung, or try with something like GM or Alcatel. I mean, why are GM and Alcatel so cheap, are they really low quality, or? I don't believe it's low quality, GM is Google right, does that mean it's gotta be good since it's from Google?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung offers much less for the price than GM, Alcatel and Cubot, why is that so, is Samsung overrated?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy from GM or Alcatel without fear that it will break soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't found a single review GM 4G and Lenovo K10a40.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][1] is the store where I'll be buying, it's Croatian, but you'll understand, I'm looking at about 1000 kn price range. 1 USD is about 7kn.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/komunikacije/gsm.aspx#page=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25027" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="fd776b36-e0cd-480e-9c56-130424bf900f" CreationDate="2017-08-23T11:59:01.907" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 6849 edit id of 622" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7981" RevisionGUID="7bc03e76-0967-4061-836a-befeb74692d9" CreationDate="2017-08-23T16:27:42.907" UserId="5740" Text="To be honest, the only phone on that website I would personally recommend is probably your first suggestion, the Samsung J3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung devices have good build quality and performance overall, they also last a long time, from personal experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, I would most likely recommend the LG smartphones, either of the two below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [LG X210 K7](https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/mobitel-lg-x210-k7.aspx)&#xD;&#xA; - [LG K350 K8](https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/mobitel-lg-k350-k8-dual-sim-crni-1.aspx)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be reasonable, the General Mobile (GM) phones dont look too bad on paper, its just that i have never heard of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My personal advice would be to buy a Motorola G5 and get it shipped to your country if you are looking for a pure and fast android experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7982" RevisionGUID="4ce1ea68-df3b-4c3c-a6da-995d58e4e8d1" CreationDate="2017-08-23T16:39:54.133" UserId="5740" Text="I cant go ahead and recommend any particular devices, as I have never owned one, but I think what you are looking for is a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_[Duplex Scanner](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=duplex+scanner)_&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should imagine anything with a well know name will do the job for you. Im not sure there is any specific device that actually knows _document size/length/no. of pages_ without some kind of user input, which wasnt what you were looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, _[duplex scanning](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplex_scanning)_ will do that for you, giving that no document is more than 2 pages long (double sided).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope that makes sense and helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="0ff5fb7a-629e-42b4-b24e-d38aa0124ef4" CreationDate="2017-08-23T17:26:32.690" UserId="6854" Text="With the vast amount of eGPU enclosures appearing on the market, I need some help choosing a future-proof one with the following guidelines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Mid-2015 MacBook Pro (2,5 GHz Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB) and would like to drive two external 2k monitors with the external GPU. This specific model only supports Thunderbolt 2, therefore the enclosure has to be compatible with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I may upgrade my Macbook to the latest model at some point, I would like the enclosure to be able to make sure of it - therefore it has to support Thunderbolt 3 ports, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use the external GPU from OS X and Windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25034" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="0ff5fb7a-629e-42b4-b24e-d38aa0124ef4" CreationDate="2017-08-23T17:26:32.690" UserId="6854" Text="Future-proof eGPU enclosure for Macbook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25035" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="0ff5fb7a-629e-42b4-b24e-d38aa0124ef4" CreationDate="2017-08-23T17:26:32.690" UserId="6854" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25036" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="6838ec44-f42e-4c30-92d0-deee027c3911" CreationDate="2017-08-23T17:41:53.010" UserId="6854" Comment="Add country specification" Text="With the vast amount of eGPU enclosures appearing on the market, I need some help choosing a future-proof one with the following guidelines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Mid-2015 MacBook Pro (2,5 GHz Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB) and would like to drive two external 2k monitors with the external GPU. This specific model only supports Thunderbolt 2, therefore the enclosure has to be compatible with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I may upgrade my Macbook to the latest model at some point, I would like the enclosure to be able to make sure of it - therefore it has to support Thunderbolt 3 ports, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use the external GPU from OS X and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition: I am going to live in Germany, the US and Canada in the next two years so it would be nice, if the enclosure would support all these power plugs/voltages." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7984" RevisionGUID="a95f20a9-c18b-4fca-b941-9317916e36b6" CreationDate="2017-08-24T07:41:58.810" UserId="6791" Text="I need to buy or build a machine for my research in Deep Learning and Computer Vision. I read in some tutorial about building a machine for Deep Learning, it suggested using a CPU with minimum 8 Cores, where Cache Doesn't Matter even some people suggest that CPU power doesn't matter as much as GPU. They also suggested  a minimum of 8GB RAM and a GPU with at least 2GB Memory. Suggested GPU GTX 680, GTX 980 and GTX 1080. First two are not available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***The reason why I'm not following already available suggestions is that I have low budget and I'm considering only those options which are available as used or at low cost in Pakistan.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have visited local stores and I have been offered following packages. But none of the store owner has ever encountered a person working in machine learning or vision so neither they know anything about requirements nor I. That's why I don't even know if all these components offered in packages below will work optimally together or not. So Please have a look at them and let me know if they is something wrong with using one kind of processor on a kind of motherboard or GPU compatibility with board or processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also open for mixed suggestions e.g. using GPU offered in one package and CPU from other but I want to keep my budget as low as $1000 with a little margin. Prices of some components are provided separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Option 1 ($991 or PKR 104500)&#xD;&#xA;* Asus X99 Board (Supports 40 Lane PCIe 3.0) - USED ($237)&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Core i7-5820K (6 Core, 3.3 GHz, 15M Cache) - USED ($332)&#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB DDR4 RAM - NEW with Full Warranty ($142)&#xD;&#xA;* 500 GB Mechanical Hard Drive - USED ($19)&#xD;&#xA;* 128 GB SSD - USED ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* GTX 1050Ti - NEW with Full Warranty ($185)&#xD;&#xA;* 650W Power Supply ($42)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Option 2 ($835 or PKR 88000)&#xD;&#xA;* Dell T3610 Desktop Workstation - USED &#xD;&#xA;* Intel Xeon E5 Series Processor with 1 Core, 30M Cache - USED &#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB DDR3 RAM ($33)&#xD;&#xA;* 500 GB Mechanical Hard Drive - USED ($19)&#xD;&#xA;* 128 GB SSD - USED ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* GTX 1050Ti - NEW with Full Warranty ($185)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Option 3 ($1803 or PKR 190000)&#xD;&#xA;* MSI X99 SLI PLUS (Supports 40 Lane PCIe 3.0) - USED&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 (8 Core, 2.1 GHz, 20M Cache) - USED&#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB DDR4 RAM - NEW with FULL Warranty ($142)&#xD;&#xA;* 500 GB Mechanical Hard Drive - USED ($19)&#xD;&#xA;* 128 GB SSD - USED ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* GTX 1080 - New with Full Warranty ($711)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Option 4 ($1090 or PKR 115000)&#xD;&#xA;* HP Tower z820&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Xeon E5-2687W (8 Core, 3.1 GHz, 20M Cache)&#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB DDR3 RAM ($33)&#xD;&#xA;* 1 TB Hard Drive ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* 128 GB SSD ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* NVidia Quadro 5000 (2.5 GB, 384 bit)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Option 5 ($512 or PKR 54000 without Graphic Card)&#xD;&#xA;* HP z620 Tower&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Xeon e5-2650 (8 Core, 2 GHz, 20M Smart Cache)&#xD;&#xA;* 16 GB DDR3 RAM ($33)&#xD;&#xA;* 500 GB Hard Drive ($19)&#xD;&#xA;* 128 GB SSD ($28)&#xD;&#xA;* Graphics Card is not included" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25039" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7984" RevisionGUID="a95f20a9-c18b-4fca-b941-9317916e36b6" CreationDate="2017-08-24T07:41:58.810" UserId="6791" Text="Workstation for Deep Learning in Pakistan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25040" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7984" RevisionGUID="a95f20a9-c18b-4fca-b941-9317916e36b6" CreationDate="2017-08-24T07:41:58.810" UserId="6791" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25044" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7960" RevisionGUID="a0760ebc-f861-4363-b537-4b994c2fe740" CreationDate="2017-08-24T15:59:47.700" UserId="5740" Comment="removed inaccurate line in the upgradability bullet points" Text="Both the machines are upgradable to the same extent. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - SSD can be added.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - More RAM can be added.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Now, Acer comes with the higher specs  in ram and SSD. Which extremely reflects your performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now buying is dependent on pricing of the machines. If Acer comes at the same cost of dell or slightly higher or lower then simply choose the Acer blind folded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because 8 gig stick and a 128 SSD disk sums around INR 11k in India. Which is really a big amount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then comes the brand, If you're not brand conscious, I hope you will pick the right one. :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25045" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7960" RevisionGUID="a0760ebc-f861-4363-b537-4b994c2fe740" CreationDate="2017-08-24T15:59:47.700" Comment="Proposed by 5740 approved by 60 edit id of 623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7986" RevisionGUID="59f7f65f-9fb3-410c-a7bc-2963ff81a5e0" CreationDate="2017-08-24T16:29:45.363" UserId="6862" Text="**Software-Solution**&#xD;&#xA;This might not be the same type of product you are seeking however it is a full-proof approach to software KVM(A). You could try Synergy or one of it's many alternatives that handle KVM at the network level. I've used Synergy for many years on my dev box with a configuration of two laptops, two towers, and a CCTV which runs Ubuntu desktop. The only downside is that Synergy is no longer a free approach. It seems Symless is going through some growing pains as they ramp up their new company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Source:** [https://symless.com/synergy][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Hardware Solution**&#xD;&#xA;If you are unable to use Synergy, StarTech makes a nice two port solution. I'm not quite sure about your budget since you stated &quot;doesn't break the bank&quot;, but this one will run you $292.00 USD. At any rate shop around on NewEgg before making a KVM purchase, and beware of the triplite generics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: as far as output goes, you can always find a converter from DVI to HDMI vice versa, and even VGA to DVI/HDMI. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Source:** [https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707420&amp;cm_re=kvm_switch_2_monitors_2_computers-_-17-707-420-_-Product][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://symless.com/synergy&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707420&amp;cm_re=kvm_switch_2_monitors_2_computers-_-17-707-420-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25047" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7835" RevisionGUID="a6fe1d07-df59-4382-a6e9-b1d5b13a8082" CreationDate="2017-08-24T19:01:32.320" UserId="-1" Comment="61" />
  <row Id="25048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7987" RevisionGUID="e585d807-ecf7-49c3-b112-7f940f4933a3" CreationDate="2017-08-24T19:03:42.273" UserId="5563" Text="Our software development team is spread out.  We desperately need a white boarding solution and the basic web based ones aren't cutting the mustard.  We've tried using our tablets to share our drawings, but they feel too small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The key features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Two way sharing.  I can draw and the guys on the other side can too, in near real time.&#xD;&#xA;2.  It's big enough to be useful.  I'm used to 6' x 4' whiteboards.  Something the size of a 60 inch TV would work.&#xD;&#xA;3.  I can capture and save the drawings for later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$2,000 is probably the upper limits of the budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25049" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7987" RevisionGUID="e585d807-ecf7-49c3-b112-7f940f4933a3" CreationDate="2017-08-24T19:03:42.273" UserId="5563" Text="Remote Whiteboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25050" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7987" RevisionGUID="e585d807-ecf7-49c3-b112-7f940f4933a3" CreationDate="2017-08-24T19:03:42.273" UserId="5563" Text="&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25051" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="fe5c1c70-8ecc-4ed2-b723-f1a6876c0f0e" CreationDate="2017-08-24T20:01:32.320" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25052" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="1a68141d-7d1f-496b-9561-2ecc44663fbb" CreationDate="2017-08-24T21:01:32.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25053" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="cd2eb1f7-28f5-4161-9a93-1a539183e7f8" CreationDate="2017-08-24T23:01:32.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25055" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="bb2951eb-ec7e-4e86-b066-1434ac0ee4a1" CreationDate="2017-08-25T04:03:31.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25056" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="6a9cfb69-63c4-4135-865e-50f6ef30767c" CreationDate="2017-08-25T06:06:20.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25057" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7988" RevisionGUID="852460d3-6b99-4126-b8f1-e5533661dd6e" CreationDate="2017-08-25T11:23:53.223" UserId="6868" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop, better than I have got right now. Currently, I have got an Acer. Its CPU is an AMD E2-3800 APU with Radeon(TM) HD Graphics 1.30GHz, and has 8 Gb RAM. I have been looking and I have found a HP 250 G6, with an I3-6006U, Intel HD 520 and 8 Gb RAM. I want to be sure the difference between them with be enought. But my knowledge about hardware is... I would like to know your opinion about this. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And sorry about my English. As you can imagine, it's not my native language :(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25058" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7988" RevisionGUID="852460d3-6b99-4126-b8f1-e5533661dd6e" CreationDate="2017-08-25T11:23:53.223" UserId="6868" Text="Looking for a new laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25059" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7988" RevisionGUID="852460d3-6b99-4126-b8f1-e5533661dd6e" CreationDate="2017-08-25T11:23:53.223" UserId="6868" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25060" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="06ed1a71-02bb-42b4-a056-0652518ff861" CreationDate="2017-08-25T13:06:21.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25064" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7991" RevisionGUID="6666ffc6-2606-4a41-8c0c-c1289708f7ae" CreationDate="2017-08-25T16:48:05.780" UserId="1812" Text="SSD is your best choice for top notch performance. If storage is your higher priority then go for magnetic disks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7992" RevisionGUID="34b36c53-86f3-4ab5-b567-69f5491e02c7" CreationDate="2017-08-25T19:11:22.067" UserId="5740" Text="For arguments sake there is no upper bound on my budget, but the lower the better, clearly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a touchscreen display of 30 inches or greater that has a resolution of 3840 x 2160 or greater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be for content creation and other similar usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want a wacom cintiq or similar before you go suggesting it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25066" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7992" RevisionGUID="34b36c53-86f3-4ab5-b567-69f5491e02c7" CreationDate="2017-08-25T19:11:22.067" UserId="5740" Text="UHD+ Touchscreen for Content Creation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25067" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7992" RevisionGUID="34b36c53-86f3-4ab5-b567-69f5491e02c7" CreationDate="2017-08-25T19:11:22.067" UserId="5740" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25073" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7988" RevisionGUID="968ef3a1-6041-4eb0-9205-34227f7893bd" CreationDate="2017-08-26T00:14:18.353" UserId="476" Comment="Fixed grammar, made it more readable" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop, better than the one I have got right now. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I have got an Acer with an AMD E2-3800 APU with Radeon(TM) HD Graphics 1.30GHz and 8 GB RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking and I have found a HP 250 G6, with an i3-6006U, Intel HD 520 and 8 GB RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to be sure the difference between them with be enough. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25079" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="5a4e1037-0d13-4c28-bf35-e2e23b7a0c95" CreationDate="2017-08-26T01:33:20.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25082" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="22d33923-20f6-499d-98c9-6c6b3a7bab39" CreationDate="2017-08-26T14:42:13.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25083" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7992" RevisionGUID="7f247303-4f3a-4ba5-b085-ed4189916819" CreationDate="2017-08-26T17:25:04.690" UserId="5740" Comment="deleted 13 characters in body" Text="For arguments sake there is no upper bound on my budget, but the lower the better, clearly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a touchscreen display of 30 inches or greater that has a resolution of 3840 x 2160 or greater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be for content creation and other similar usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want a wacom cintiq before anyone suggests it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25084" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="bc8a2821-151d-4fcd-af98-be7515d55a57" CreationDate="2017-08-26T17:48:04.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7992" RevisionGUID="4d7f7abc-ba5d-4a03-b666-8b19cd7da2a6" CreationDate="2017-08-26T17:54:24.633" UserId="5740" Comment="deleted 58 characters in body" Text="For arguments sake there is no upper bound on my budget, but the lower the better, clearly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a touchscreen display of 30 inches or greater that has a resolution of 3840 x 2160 or greater.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be for content creation and other similar usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25090" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="d77d87a6-bc0f-4110-97b0-ada7a1ffccca" CreationDate="2017-08-28T02:50:10.580" UserId="5740" Comment="edit technical terms and a bit of grammar" Text="With the vast amount of graphics card enclosures appearing on the market, I need some help choosing a future-proof one with the following guidelines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Mid-2015 MacBook Pro (2,5 GHz Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB) and I would like to drive two external 2k monitors with a secondary graphics card and enclosure. This specific MacBook only supports Thunderbolt 2, therefore the enclosure has to be compatible with this revision of the Thunderbolt technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I may upgrade my MacBook to the latest model at some point, I would like the enclosure to be able to make sure of it - therefore it has to support Thunderbolt 3 ports, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use the GPU enclosure with OS X and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition: I am going to live in Germany, the US and Canada in the next two years so it would be nice, if the enclosure would support all these power plugs/voltages." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25091" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7983" RevisionGUID="d77d87a6-bc0f-4110-97b0-ada7a1ffccca" CreationDate="2017-08-28T02:50:10.580" Comment="Proposed by 5740 approved by 476, 57 edit id of 624" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25096" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1145" RevisionGUID="a450c169-c621-4982-8e8d-66b93f2f3a81" CreationDate="2017-08-28T02:51:23.523" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25097" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="7999" RevisionGUID="f00f074e-7401-4080-80db-ef097f4d78e7" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:12:46.007" UserId="6884" Text="I have a motherboard Hi-Fi a70u3p (http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/ru/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=773) and I need to buy an intel core i5 6600 or equivalent processor. Does this motherboard support this processor model? If not, then advise similar processor that this motherboard supports." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25098" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="7999" RevisionGUID="f00f074e-7401-4080-80db-ef097f4d78e7" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:12:46.007" UserId="6884" Text="Compatibility of the processor with the motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25099" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="7999" RevisionGUID="f00f074e-7401-4080-80db-ef097f4d78e7" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:12:46.007" UserId="6884" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8000" RevisionGUID="cd97bc02-7b60-4efa-ac9a-8db70128a2a2" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:22:18.950" UserId="6885" Text="I am looking to build an editing PC and one of the crucial components is CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it seems like Davinci Resolve run almost entirely on the GPU, and the GPU I have is the RX560 4GB. I am wondering whether will I get a better performance by going for the Ryzen 7 1700 instead of the Ryzen 5 1600. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Getting a more powerful GPU is out of my budget. I have a B350 motherboard coming in the mail, I just need to know what CPU I should get." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25101" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8000" RevisionGUID="cd97bc02-7b60-4efa-ac9a-8db70128a2a2" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:22:18.950" UserId="6885" Text="Ryzen 5 or 7 CPU for Davinci Resolve 14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25102" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8000" RevisionGUID="cd97bc02-7b60-4efa-ac9a-8db70128a2a2" CreationDate="2017-08-28T12:22:18.950" UserId="6885" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8002" RevisionGUID="44eea79a-e466-4a9b-b8fa-aa72d9d18ee3" CreationDate="2017-08-28T16:58:36.607" UserId="6475" Text="Either CPU will be fine but for heavy editing or rendering workloads you'd be better served getting a Ryzen 7 1700. The extra process threads will shorten your production downtime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will really end up being a budget-driven decision for you. If this machine is to fuel a hobby and your budget is on the tight side, get the Ryzen 5. If you're building this for professional production and intend to use it to earn income, then absolutely get the Ryzen 7 over the Ryzen 5 if your budget allows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also wait a few months, as AMD is rumored to have a new professional-grade lineup of processors using the Zen architecture between Q3 and Q4, but that depends on your timeline." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8003" RevisionGUID="31e49e0b-c888-47e6-a4ef-58dfa36eeccf" CreationDate="2017-08-28T17:08:18.017" UserId="6475" Text="As Andy mentioned in the comments, this is an old AMD board. The FM2 socket is a few generations old at this point. You're going to have to find a used CPU that is compatible with the board, as AMD no longer manufactures any CPU that is compatible with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find a list of supported CPU models by looking for your motherboard's user manual online, or viewing a compiled list on the wikipedia article regarding the FM2 socket, or by using a site such as www.pcpartpicker.com. Good places to look for old hardware are Ebay and a community on Reddit called &quot;r/hardwareswap&quot; (without quotes)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8004" RevisionGUID="46bc9adf-4f3e-49fc-84ae-1f7274409461" CreationDate="2017-08-28T17:47:39.370" UserId="6475" Text="If you're willing to sort the documents as suggested in the comments by Edward Nunn, then my answer here should be of help to you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7692/document-scanner-with-specific-modes/7693#7693&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can definitely find cheaper units that don't use features like Auto Document Feed (ADF) and whatever else you don't need, but if you need to get this project done fast in a business setting then I'd recommend something with ADF at least. Considering the apparent scale of your project, the cost of additional man hours put in due to the absence of those features would probably approach or exceed the cost of just buying the scanner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Original Question From Link:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are in search for a business document scanner with following scan options, all done over a ADF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplex: front side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Duplex: front and back side&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Simplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Simplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Duplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF (One PDF with front and back side).&#xD;&#xA; 4. Duplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We talked with a supplier of ours and got a Brother ADS-2800W from him, but its incapable of mode nr 3.&#xD;&#xA;After some research and getting back with the Brother Support, none of Brothers Scanner is apparently capable of nr 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course we also tried the usual ways (google, product comparison websites and all those &quot;Best Scanners of &gt;&gt;insert year here&lt;&lt;&quot;-Reviews) but none of those gave the information needed or didnt comply with at least one criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ADF&#xD;&#xA; - A4 sheet size&#xD;&#xA; - Modes listed above&#xD;&#xA; - Desktop size&#xD;&#xA; - WLAN / LAN&#xD;&#xA; - Save to SMB Network Share&#xD;&#xA; - Price of 600€ / $ top&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any kind of help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Full answer below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My office recently grabbed an HP ScanJet 3000 S3. It's a bit above your price range (closer to $800-900), but I've been in charge of developing our scan process and I can tell you with confidence that it does everything you listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We specifically got it to digitize old paper records, and it is set up at a small stand-alone desk with a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ADF = Included&#xD;&#xA;- A4 sheet size = Included, also has other custom paper sizes. Smaller sheets can sometimes have trouble being grabbed by the feed mechanism, but it's functional.&#xD;&#xA;- Modes listed above = All included.&#xD;&#xA;- Desktop size = Fits on a pretty tiny desk with plenty of room to work. Very space efficient. &#xD;&#xA;- WLAN / LAN = This feature exists but you have to buy a $40 wireless adapter that is made special just for this unit, and you can only scan to mobile devices using this method. I know don't even get me started right now, but this thing works and finding a wireless workaround solution was extremely simple since we work from a server platform. We returned the stupid $40 USB dongle.&#xD;&#xA;- Save to SMB Network Share = Included.&#xD;&#xA;- Price of 600€ / $ top = Nope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's far from a perfect solution and you usually won't find me recommending products that don't fit the user's question, but we had a particularly long and arduous experience trying to find something that would fit our needs. I see similar conditions in your post. We had to make a few compromises, but at the end of the day we needed something and this little headache of a scanner made our project possible. Perhaps it can do the same for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can definitely tell you that unless you're looking for something used, duplex auto-document feed scanners that can handle even a 50 page count stack at a time don't exist for under $600. Well, they may exist, but there wasn't anything I found that was suitable and trustworthy enough for business use.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5800" RevisionGUID="58b053a2-6f57-477f-84e4-c4f2a32cff03" CreationDate="2017-08-28T21:30:23.867" UserId="219" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="Not exactly a drone but more or less accomplishes most of the same thing. This thing is pretty awesome:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Site: http://global.varram.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: This product has horrendous support and the software is severely lacking with no plans of improvement for necessary things like LAN discovery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/FkAjg.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/86itw.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25117" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="6f87b855-5ba4-46f2-8877-2a0345ca1242" CreationDate="2017-08-29T12:04:50.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8007" RevisionGUID="827cea9a-26c4-424d-8615-d615efd073b9" CreationDate="2017-08-29T17:50:45.370" UserId="6894" Text="I am a landloard in Canada and I want to implement a paid washing machine solution without buying a commercial coin laundry. I want to use a regular washing machine that is cheaper, better looking, feature rich, and compact. And I want to add some sort of vending controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the purpose of this question I will assume that the washing machine I will buy has a wire going to the START button that I will be able to disconnect. I will put a relay on this wire. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I don't want to program the controller from scratch. Is there an existing cloud service provider that can take care of maintaining the user accounts for me (tenants), collecting payments (PayPal or Canadian credit cards would work), and then controlling the relay remotely. On my side I will have a relay connected to let's say a Raspberry Pi or something like that. That Raspberry Pi will have either an RFID reader or a code keypad to authenticate users. When card is swiped or code is entered, the start button will be unlocked for 15 minutes and the fee will be charged to the API that maintains the payments. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe all this service provider does is just manage balances and collects charges through some API calls from my local interface. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25123" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8007" RevisionGUID="827cea9a-26c4-424d-8615-d615efd073b9" CreationDate="2017-08-29T17:50:45.370" UserId="6894" Text="Paid Laundry Coin Free" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25124" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8007" RevisionGUID="827cea9a-26c4-424d-8615-d615efd073b9" CreationDate="2017-08-29T17:50:45.370" UserId="6894" Text="&lt;api&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8012" RevisionGUID="44b55e04-175e-4883-8c99-9b88acf91cc0" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:39:47.507" UserId="6901" Text="I have a Dell laptop, with the ring shaped charger (not usb-c), I want to be able to charge it trough my giant battery pack, it has usb-c and a. Is there and adapter or wire, so 1 end is usb-c (45w) and other is wall outlet (so I can plug in the wall charger) or directly to dell's charger port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8012" RevisionGUID="44b55e04-175e-4883-8c99-9b88acf91cc0" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:39:47.507" UserId="6901" Text="Usb C Male to Wall outlet or Dell charger?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8012" RevisionGUID="44b55e04-175e-4883-8c99-9b88acf91cc0" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:39:47.507" UserId="6901" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25137" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8014" RevisionGUID="af8faee5-0210-43b4-8976-ebd043338dd6" CreationDate="2017-08-30T13:20:42.347" UserId="6685" Text="Depending on how much you want to spend I would say Raspberry Pi would be the way to go as you will be able to install a nice OS that could be tailored to what you are after, or if you would farther have a slightly easier system there are a number of Zotac mini PC’s that pack a lot of hardware in a tiny form factor.&#xA;&#xA;As for the controller if you have a look about there are a number of different options such as small wireless touch pads that could be used or you could find something like a windows media controller and see if there are some tweaks to get it to control the PC. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8015" RevisionGUID="4440793a-1fd4-4bb0-9060-8a5b06bbb281" CreationDate="2017-08-30T14:46:39.573" UserId="6870" Text="I have a question similar to &#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1846/picking-vm-server-hardware-for-development.&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to choose a machine that will run several (up to 4?) windows/linux VMs to be used for testing and development. A &quot;home virtualization lab&quot; to quote the linked question. One difference is that I want to use multiple monitors directly connected to the computer.&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure of my budget, but $1000 dollars is probably a soft maximum, however less is good. I have built many machines, but I haven't usually picked components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The linked question is a year and a half old, so I don't know what has changed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am intrigued by the idea of a used rack mount server as suggested by the second and fourth answers, and would appreciate suggestions regarding good models or models that are to be avoided at any cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If a new build is the way to go then I am mostly asking about RAM, CPU and board recommendations. I think I can handle the storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25141" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8015" RevisionGUID="4440793a-1fd4-4bb0-9060-8a5b06bbb281" CreationDate="2017-08-30T14:46:39.573" UserId="6870" Text="VM server for testing purposes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25142" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8015" RevisionGUID="4440793a-1fd4-4bb0-9060-8a5b06bbb281" CreationDate="2017-08-30T14:46:39.573" UserId="6870" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25151" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8018" RevisionGUID="18fdc3f2-d181-495b-a7cf-5d1f423b7087" CreationDate="2017-08-30T19:44:35.183" UserId="6265" Text="I'm looking for a new Android phone to replace my current Nexus 5.&#xD;&#xA;It should be similar in size (the Nexus 5 is 137.8 by 69.2 mm, so a **screen diagonal of about 5 inches**) - I don't like the trend towards large phones. I am however looking for **decent hardware**.&#xD;&#xA;It should also come with an **unmodified current version of Android**, I also don't like waiting for months/years for updates as I had to in the past with a phone from LG. I'd prefer for it to have an **audio jack** and the **navbar buttons on-screen**, not as hardware buttons. Another thing bugging me about my Nexus 5 is that it only has 16 GB of storage - I need **32 GB at the very least**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25152" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8018" RevisionGUID="18fdc3f2-d181-495b-a7cf-5d1f423b7087" CreationDate="2017-08-30T19:44:35.183" UserId="6265" Text="Stock Android phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25153" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8018" RevisionGUID="18fdc3f2-d181-495b-a7cf-5d1f423b7087" CreationDate="2017-08-30T19:44:35.183" UserId="6265" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8019" RevisionGUID="07977e1d-7fa9-4900-b21c-2c8725318aca" CreationDate="2017-08-30T20:44:20.777" UserId="5740" Text="I would suggest the 32GB model of the [Motorola Moto G5](http://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_g5-8454.php)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All Motorola phones come with as clean android as you are going to find on the market (compared to the Google Pixel) and they have very good hardware specifications, check in the link above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its screen size is 5 inches, the only hardware button is the home button, and it has an audio jack. Decent camera too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="e7adedce-247b-496d-bb99-a4b3fff55f68" CreationDate="2017-08-30T23:24:37.393" UserId="6906" Text="I'm looking for a 1x PCIe Adapter supporting half mini and mini PCIe wireless network card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Quality components&#xD;&#xA;- Transparent (No additional drivers needed etc)&#xD;&#xA;- 3 antenna connector preferred (2 minimum)&#xD;&#xA;- Able to use the full speed of a PCIe slot&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible with all existing 802.11 protocols + Bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25156" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="e7adedce-247b-496d-bb99-a4b3fff55f68" CreationDate="2017-08-30T23:24:37.393" UserId="6906" Text="half mini/mini PCIe to PCIe Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25157" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="e7adedce-247b-496d-bb99-a4b3fff55f68" CreationDate="2017-08-30T23:24:37.393" UserId="6906" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="987f8c1b-32b6-434a-8bb6-dc6df4b086aa" CreationDate="2017-08-31T02:20:52.833" UserId="476" Text="I'm looking for a compact digital camera with manual controls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - **Price**: As low as possible&#xD;&#xA; - **Flash, SD Card Slot**&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum Size&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;**: 6 x 5 x 2 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Manual Control**: Aperture, ISO, Shutter speed&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Minimum Aperture**: f/2.8&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution**: 12MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution:** 1280 x 720 @ 24p&#xD;&#xA;  - **Microphone**: any quality&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed:** 1/2000 sec - 30 secs&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom**: 5x optical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Lower Number is Higher Priority&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **RAW Images (1)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution (2)**: 20MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed (3)**: 1/2000 sec - infinite&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom (4)**: 20x optical&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution**: (5) 1920 x 1080 / (7) 3840 x 2160&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Framerate (6)**: 60p&#xD;&#xA; - **Interchangeable lenses&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (8)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not Necessary&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;But fine to have!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI/VGA/DVI/Other output&#xD;&#xA; - Internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1**&lt;/sup&gt;Flexible&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2**&lt;/sup&gt;Consider the price of a decent lens when comparing to alternatives with fixed lenses, up to your discretion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="987f8c1b-32b6-434a-8bb6-dc6df4b086aa" CreationDate="2017-08-31T02:20:52.833" UserId="476" Text="Compact camera under $300 manual controls" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="987f8c1b-32b6-434a-8bb6-dc6df4b086aa" CreationDate="2017-08-31T02:20:52.833" UserId="476" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8022" RevisionGUID="077a2b62-6048-4e08-8957-d8096824424e" CreationDate="2017-08-31T10:37:41.173" UserId="6527" Text="I have the Nikon 1 J5 and i get some great photos out of it. It's around $300 and comes with loads of in-camera effects (toy camera, wide angle, colour selection so on) and considering it's a mirror-less camera it captures really hi-res photos, plus its not a pain to lug around! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Here's the link - https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;cad=rja&amp;uact=8&amp;ved=0ahUKEwj8-Zzqo4HWAhUsJMAKHYHcA4EQFgg1MAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.europe-nikon.com%2Fen_GB%2Fproducts%2Fproduct_details.page%3FID%3D14256352186198966&amp;usg=AFQjCNGGwXCypuAB2gT3dD9T0RBz95e3_w" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8023" RevisionGUID="00fbdbdd-870e-41d2-8410-f94be77b894f" CreationDate="2017-08-31T13:40:48.283" UserId="6633" Text="I have used a few different models of Scansnap from Fujitsu and they have been great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are expensive (4-5 hundred $), but well worth it in my opinion. If you put a document with writing on a single side, and the back of the document is anything other than white, it will scan it as well. I just delete the white pages from the pdf after.  If you put in 5 pages, all double sided, it feeds them through a single time, and gives you back a 10 page PDF.  :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=scansnap&amp;tag=googhydr-20&amp;index=aps&amp;hvadid=182034174446&amp;hvpos=1t2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16899866166753887597&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=b&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9009667&amp;hvtargid=kwd-117955977&amp;ref=pd_sl_361fwhr797_b_p20&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="b41cea97-f884-4c20-b58a-16e3c1ac1298" CreationDate="2017-08-31T13:54:30.593" UserId="476" Comment="Added an optional price constraint." Text="I'm looking for a compact digital camera with manual controls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - **Price&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup**: &lt;$300&#xD;&#xA; - **Flash, SD Card Slot**&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum Size&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;**: 6 x 5 x 2 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Manual Control**: Aperture, ISO, Shutter speed&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Minimum Aperture**: f/2.8&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution**: 12MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution:** 1280 x 720 @ 24p&#xD;&#xA;  - **Microphone**: any quality&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed:** 1/2000 sec - 30 secs&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom**: 5x optical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Lower Number is Higher Priority&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **RAW Images (1)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution (2)**: 20MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed (3)**: 1/2000 sec - infinite&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom (4)**: 20x optical&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution**: (5) 1920 x 1080 / (7) 3840 x 2160&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Framerate (6)**: 60p&#xD;&#xA; - **Interchangeable lenses&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (8)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not Necessary&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;But fine to have!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI/VGA/DVI/Other output&#xD;&#xA; - Internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1**&lt;/sup&gt;Please post cameras that fit the preferences that you think are good deals for others who may stumble upon this post&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2**&lt;/sup&gt;Flexible&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3**&lt;/sup&gt;Consider the price of a decent lens when comparing to alternatives with fixed lenses, up to your discretion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25164" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="2146ff73-27b8-4b32-ae91-ad7cf5be786f" CreationDate="2017-08-31T13:55:42.763" UserId="476" Comment="Rollback to [987f8c1b-32b6-434a-8bb6-dc6df4b086aa]" Text="I'm looking for a compact digital camera with manual controls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - **Price**: As low as possible&#xD;&#xA; - **Flash, SD Card Slot**&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum Size&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;**: 6 x 5 x 2 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Manual Control**: Aperture, ISO, Shutter speed&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Minimum Aperture**: f/2.8&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution**: 12MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution:** 1280 x 720 @ 24p&#xD;&#xA;  - **Microphone**: any quality&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed:** 1/2000 sec - 30 secs&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom**: 5x optical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Lower Number is Higher Priority&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **RAW Images (1)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution (2)**: 20MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed (3)**: 1/2000 sec - infinite&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom (4)**: 20x optical&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution**: (5) 1920 x 1080 / (7) 3840 x 2160&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Framerate (6)**: 60p&#xD;&#xA; - **Interchangeable lenses&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (8)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not Necessary&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;But fine to have!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI/VGA/DVI/Other output&#xD;&#xA; - Internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1**&lt;/sup&gt;Flexible&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2**&lt;/sup&gt;Consider the price of a decent lens when comparing to alternatives with fixed lenses, up to your discretion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8021" RevisionGUID="49b7511b-b8b2-495d-bc6e-a6e738552aaf" CreationDate="2017-08-31T13:58:17.407" UserId="476" Comment="formatting was broken" Text="I'm looking for a compact digital camera with manual controls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - **Price&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;**: As low as possible&#xD;&#xA; - **Flash, SD Card Slot**&#xD;&#xA; - **Maximum Size&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;**: 6 x 5 x 2 inches&#xD;&#xA; - **Manual Control**: Aperture, ISO, Shutter speed&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Minimum Aperture**: f/2.8&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution**: 12MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution:** 1280 x 720 @ 24p&#xD;&#xA;  - **Microphone**: any quality&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed:** 1/2000 sec - 30 secs&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom**: 5x optical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Lower Number is Higher Priority&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **RAW Images (1)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Specifications**&#xD;&#xA;  - **Picture Resolution (2)**: 20MP&#xD;&#xA;  - **Shutter Speed (3)**: 1/2000 sec - infinite&#xD;&#xA;  - **Zoom (4)**: 20x optical&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Resolution**: (5) 1920 x 1080 / (7) 3840 x 2160&#xD;&#xA;  - **Video Framerate (6)**: 60p&#xD;&#xA; - **Interchangeable lenses&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (8)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not Necessary&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;But fine to have!&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI/VGA/DVI/Other output&#xD;&#xA; - Internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1**&lt;/sup&gt;Please post other cameras fitting the preferences above the budget for others who stumble upon this post&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2**&lt;/sup&gt;Flexible&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3**&lt;/sup&gt;Consider the price of a decent lens when comparing to alternatives with fixed lenses, up to your discretion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8022" RevisionGUID="b6b79380-5dd6-4e93-8ca7-da87f2af97f7" CreationDate="2017-08-31T14:06:43.327" UserId="476" Comment="edited for clarity." Text="I have the [Nikon 1 J5][1] and I get some great photos out of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's around $300 and comes with loads of in-camera effects (toy camera, wide angle, colour selection so on) and considering it's a mirror-less camera it captures really hi-res photos, plus its not a pain to lug around! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.europe-nikon.com/en_GB/product/digital-cameras/nikon-1/everyday/nikon-1-j5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25167" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="9b848e6c-f176-4f8a-b867-da3bbe840fdc" CreationDate="2017-08-31T16:41:40.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="eaba0e36-8aa6-42c1-a86d-d209f74360a1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T17:55:03.127" UserId="6907" Text="Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - need to run 2 monitors - 1920X1080 and 1280x720 with recording @30fps&#xD;&#xA;   during coding&#xD;&#xA; - No or little gaming&#xD;&#xA; - multitasking include coding on    android studio and watching videos&#xD;&#xA;   on youtube running software like    VS code, IDE From JetBrains,&#xD;&#xA;   Android Studio, BB FlashBack recorder    for screen capturing,&#xD;&#xA;   general web development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;current parts&#xD;&#xA;https://in.pcpartpicker.com/list/v2wnf8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore  &#xD;&#xA;There is a situation I need to handle. Here I am going with the R7 240 2GB DDR3 XFX card which has both HDMI and VGA outs. I have an old monitor HP w15e which has only VGA port. I am going to get a new monitor 1080p which is DELL-SE2216H and has both HDMI and VGA connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;problem: I will use dell as primary monitor and hp as secondary using &quot;extend display&quot; feature on windows 10. I am thinking of connecting dell using HDMI and hp using VGA. Can i use both HDMI and VGA at the same time to extend the screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So on the desktop  &#xD;&#xA;HDMI from gfx card--&gt;dell 1080p  &#xD;&#xA;VGA from gfx card--&gt;hp 720p&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25169" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="eaba0e36-8aa6-42c1-a86d-d209f74360a1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T17:55:03.127" UserId="6907" Text="building new pc for coding requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25170" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="eaba0e36-8aa6-42c1-a86d-d209f74360a1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T17:55:03.127" UserId="6907" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8025" RevisionGUID="3b4bc401-a520-457f-91ad-7c0c50f24f9c" CreationDate="2017-08-31T19:02:46.123" UserId="6475" Text="&gt;Can i use both HDMI and VGA at the same time to extend the screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, this will work fine. The card supports multi-monitor configurations and has the outputs you have said you will be using. As far as hardware goes, there is no reason that your proposed configuration would not work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8026" RevisionGUID="92062637-b679-4209-b987-24bf63a33e60" CreationDate="2017-08-31T20:02:19.963" UserId="241" Text="There really aren't all that many options for this out there.  Newegg has one: the [Silverstone ECWA2-Lite][1].  It uses simple pass-through connectors to your computer's PCIe slot and internal USB header, so it runs at full speed, needs no additional drivers, and should be compatible with any mini-PCIe card.  It's only got two antennas, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815256026" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25176" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2674" RevisionGUID="e2663a2b-2e34-4d4a-91b6-ffacd648d14f" CreationDate="2017-09-01T08:48:08.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25177" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="16aba4e0-3f11-4e1e-86d4-b5302e1277a1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T09:48:02.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25178" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="4d1bd64a-10f7-417b-b647-be3dbc131cc4" CreationDate="2017-09-01T13:51:34.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8028" RevisionGUID="e4b12209-4e3d-4dc9-b689-ef83bf7b1758" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:01:16.977" UserId="6475" Text="This is a very bad idea unless you can verify with 100% certainty that the USB-C cable can carry the same amperage and voltage as the laptop charging cable. Missing the mark on this by charging your battery on a connection that has too much or too little juice can damage the battery and present a fire hazard. OEM laptops should always be used with a properly specced charging cable, preferably from the manufacturer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="47718f3e-3b5e-4c1f-8fb6-11995e6d10de" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:21:23.850" UserId="54" Text="My father has about 20-25% vision impairment (with eye correction) and I would like to ask you about a monitor which could make his life easier (avoid sitting too close and straining eyes too much).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typical display like 24&quot; 1080p is too small for him. Of course it is possible to adjust resolution and/or DPI settings but it is not always fully supported and can be quite annoying. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid limiting the work space, I would like to ask you about some display which could run in 1080p as its native resolution but having bigger diagonal (probably starting at 27 inches).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendation on that?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25187" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="47718f3e-3b5e-4c1f-8fb6-11995e6d10de" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:21:23.850" UserId="54" Text="Monitor for vision impaired person" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25188" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="47718f3e-3b5e-4c1f-8fb6-11995e6d10de" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:21:23.850" UserId="54" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8025" RevisionGUID="c55eb458-0c1c-4a17-85aa-269f9be1c492" CreationDate="2017-09-01T19:58:35.617" UserId="6475" Comment="added 1463 characters in body" Text="&gt;Can i use both HDMI and VGA at the same time to extend the screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, this will work fine. The card supports multi-monitor configurations and has the outputs you have said you will be using. As far as hardware goes, there is no reason that your proposed configuration would not work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: In response to your comments, here's my recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-DDR3-2GB-Graphics-GV-R724OC-2GI-REV2-0/dp/B00JRSPXMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504293362&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amd+R9&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An R7 240 has all the ports you need, no adapters necessary, and it's a little more modern as far as a multi-monitor workstation / non-gaming card goes. It's not the newest thing out there but it's recent enough that it'll last longer than the card you posted about. It's also got better power efficiency than the card in the OP while meeting all of the required specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that particular one sells out or something, you should be able to find some pretty similar cards by comparing the spec sheets. It may also help to compare the release dates for this card model to others, so you can find something from a similar generation. I'm recommending a card from around this time specifically because it will give you a good balance of pricing and longevity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your other questions, if you were to buy one of the more expensive cards you mentioned in the comments then I have two pieces of information to contribute. First, an RX 550 or a GTX 1050Ti is more power than you need, don't waste the money. If you do want to get one of those, then you just need a simple DVI -&gt; VGA adapter. It's not an active adapter since the signal is going from digital to analog, the other way around you'd need a lightly more expensive active adapter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8030" RevisionGUID="53b76ec7-1248-478d-88e9-273a18c2110e" CreationDate="2017-09-01T21:09:38.310" UserId="6475" Text="Couple things at play here, so I'll try to offer what I think would be the best comprehensive solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, you want a 27-30&quot; panel minimum, as far as size. It will allow for the monitor to be placed at a healthy visual distance without reducing how much area it takes up within his visual field, similar to how a 50&quot; TV looks &quot;smaller&quot; when it's mounted on the wall 10' away from you. You also want that extra screen space to be able to adjust any accessibility software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Examples of accessibility software for Windows would be the native Narrator software, NonVisual Desktop Access (NVDA) which is free open-source software, or Window-Eyes for MS Office or whatever the equivalent is called now. There are other options out there as well if none of these work for your dad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on if and how you implement any zoom features to enlarge text, resolution might come into play. If you're going to enlarge text to 150% or larger, I'd recommend a 1440p display over a 1080p. My reasoning here is that as you enlarge text the lines might become blurred or altered due to the ratio between the desired image size and the pixels-per-inch count. In my experience the higher definition displays tend to display enlarged text more clearly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I'll link the following thread about programming font options below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4689/recommended-fonts-for-programming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also find good lists by searching around the internet if that link dies. I recommend one of these because coders usually prefer fonts that have a high level of distinctiveness and differentiation between characters, which minimizes the chance that you will mistake a 1 for an l for a ] and so on. This is, for obvious reasons, also very helpful to the visually impaired. I believe that there are Chrome and Firefox extensions that will try to apply a given font to websites as well, so those might be worth looking into if your dad browses online a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you'd like to provide a list of desired specs and a budget, I'd be happy to look around for some models that would be a good fit. Best of luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25197" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="97dd53e8-5042-418a-b794-92e7d7648637" CreationDate="2017-09-02T09:07:44.797" UserId="54" Comment="added 182 characters in body" Text="My father has about 20-25% vision impairment (with eye correction) and I would like to ask you about a monitor which could make his life easier (avoid sitting too close and straining eyes too much).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typical display like 24&quot; 1080p is too small for him. Of course it is possible to adjust resolution and/or DPI settings but it is not always fully supported and can be quite annoying. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To avoid limiting the work space, I would like to ask you about some display which could run in 1080p as its native resolution but having bigger diagonal (probably starting at 27 inches).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must-have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size &gt;= 27&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p&#xD;&#xA; - Anti-glare coating&#xD;&#xA; - IPS/VA Panel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pivot&#xD;&#xA; - Flicker-free&#xD;&#xA; - Anti-Blue Light&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Budget: up to $1200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendation on that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8032" RevisionGUID="6329719c-8f55-4828-a90a-92ab768f79d2" CreationDate="2017-09-02T10:03:21.430" UserId="6912" Text="I am a student of mechanical engineer. Wants to buy a laptop for my personal use. I am interested of learning inventor CATIA Creo type 3d modelling software and ansys MATLAB like analysis software. Which laptop will serve my purpose? Please note that these software will be used only for learning purpose. &#xD;&#xA;Hp pavilion x360 14 ba073tx can serve my purpose?&#xD;&#xA;Is there any dell convertible model which can serve my purpose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25199" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8032" RevisionGUID="6329719c-8f55-4828-a90a-92ab768f79d2" CreationDate="2017-09-02T10:03:21.430" UserId="6912" Text="Best recommend laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25200" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8032" RevisionGUID="6329719c-8f55-4828-a90a-92ab768f79d2" CreationDate="2017-09-02T10:03:21.430" UserId="6912" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25201" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="badc72df-be35-46f9-a9d4-8f8cf01a719b" CreationDate="2017-09-02T18:14:08.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25205" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7435" RevisionGUID="5e01daf0-993a-46cf-a252-fdd111787ac4" CreationDate="2017-09-02T23:44:57.260" UserId="203" Comment="Consistent undervolt vs under-volt, corrected exponential to quadratic" Text="The answer is that it depends. If the one processor is faster than another, you can definitely undervolt the processor, or underclock it to slow it down. It would be dependent on how much you undervolt or underclock the processor, however. You might also want to note that you would want to make sure that your motherboard can support overclocking so you can ensure that you can actually mess around with the processor states and voltages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also note that the [power consumption scales linearly with frequency and quadratically with voltage][1]. So you can also reduce the frequency on a cpu state to lower power consumption as well, but it is more effective to decrease voltage because it has a squared relationship with power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/34766/how-does-power-consumption-vary-with-the-processor-frequency-in-a-typical-comput" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="8fc96036-1042-4422-84fa-274971faf263" CreationDate="2017-09-03T21:28:47.503" UserId="6886" Text="I need assistance in building my own computer. Budget is not a problem. To understand what i need, i do the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Run Ubuntu OS &#xD;&#xA; - Run Multiple virual machines at one time (often two,&#xD;&#xA;   kali linux and windows 10 , i assume i need multiple cores and big memory, 64gb?) &#xD;&#xA; - Run a Ethereum Node (not mining tho, i assume this takes up networking (wifi) and memory) &#xD;&#xA; - Run Adobe Cloud programs in the windows 10 VM (takes a ton of my&#xD;&#xA;   recourses, memory and more cores i guess?)&#xD;&#xA; - Will still need to connect via wifi on desktop temporarily, but i assume i can just use a usb wifi moduel, is that correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to build a computer on PCPartPicker, but i just do not know enough to make a good decision. I am familiar with overclocking if its recommended, and wont have a problem doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone help assist in marking or guiding me to what i need? Budget is not a problem, but id like to keep it under 5,000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25213" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="8fc96036-1042-4422-84fa-274971faf263" CreationDate="2017-09-03T21:28:47.503" UserId="6886" Text="Assistance building a computer. Not sure what i need" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25214" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="8fc96036-1042-4422-84fa-274971faf263" CreationDate="2017-09-03T21:28:47.503" UserId="6886" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25215" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="253627dd-8c24-47cd-997d-43d05e0d13f6" CreationDate="2017-09-03T21:47:46.470" UserId="6886" Comment="added 391 characters in body" Text="I need assistance in building my own computer. Budget is not a problem. To understand what i need, i do the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Run Ubuntu OS &#xD;&#xA; - Run Multiple virual machines at one time (often two,&#xD;&#xA;   kali linux and windows 10 , i assume i need multiple cores and big memory, 64gb?) &#xD;&#xA; - Run a Ethereum Node (not mining tho, i assume this takes up networking (wifi) and memory) &#xD;&#xA; - Run Adobe Cloud programs in the windows 10 VM (takes a ton of my&#xD;&#xA;   recourses, memory and more cores i guess?)&#xD;&#xA; - Will still need to connect via wifi on desktop temporarily, but i assume i can just use a usb wifi moduel, is that correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to build a computer on PCPartPicker, but i just do not know enough to make a good decision. I am familiar with overclocking if its recommended, and wont have a problem doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone help assist in marking or guiding me to what i need? Budget is not a problem, but id like to keep it under 5,000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional question,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Do i need a cache in my SSD?&#xD;&#xA; - Pick me a Video Card, i have no clue&#xD;&#xA; - Is anything i have completely unnecessary and be replaced with something much cheaper for nearly the same performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **This is my current build, please inform me of better options and recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fbNdkT" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25216" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="253627dd-8c24-47cd-997d-43d05e0d13f6" CreationDate="2017-09-03T21:47:46.470" UserId="6886" Comment="added 391 characters in body" Text="Assistance building a computer. Check my build and needs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25217" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="cc2ea12f-d861-4b3f-b4eb-ba78ec22f873" CreationDate="2017-09-03T22:44:54.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25218" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="9a2cdcda-78d6-4452-9c73-337049f43046" CreationDate="2017-09-04T01:29:51.863" UserId="6886" Comment="edited body" Text="I need assistance in building my own computer. Budget is not a problem. To understand what i need, i do the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Run Ubuntu OS &#xD;&#xA; - Run Multiple virual machines at one time (often two,&#xD;&#xA;   kali linux and windows 10 , i assume i need multiple cores and big memory, 64gb?) &#xD;&#xA; - Run a Ethereum Node (not mining tho, i assume this takes up networking (wifi) and memory) &#xD;&#xA; - Run Adobe Cloud programs in the windows 10 VM (takes a ton of my&#xD;&#xA;   recourses, memory and more cores i guess?)&#xD;&#xA; - Will still need to connect via wifi on desktop temporarily, but i assume i can just use a usb wifi moduel, is that correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to build a computer on PCPartPicker, but i just do not know enough to make a good decision. I am familiar with overclocking if its recommended, and wont have a problem doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone help assist in marking or guiding me to what i need? Budget is not a problem, but id like to keep it under 5,000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional question,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Do i need a cache in my SSD?&#xD;&#xA; - Pick me a Video Card, i have no clue&#xD;&#xA; - Is anything i have completely unnecessary and be replaced with something much cheaper for nearly the same performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **This is my current build, please inform me of better options and recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XGYvM8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8037" RevisionGUID="0955ab17-b6ed-4428-ac8f-d8e545baa7d7" CreationDate="2017-09-04T04:56:31.533" UserId="90" Text="I'm trying to make a toy for my son-in-law. It's a robot with a complex web/app interface, currently based on the Raspberry Pi. The RPi has everything I need (and more). With one exception: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the idea is that he can mess around with the hardware, the file system must be completely resilient to disconnection of power. (A USB power bank). The RPi has around a 10% chance of corruption when power is abruptly removed, and the only work-arounds are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Make the file system read-only. This is not an option for me because firstly doing so with any linux variants made for it is way beyond my expertise, and besides, it is critical that it be writable for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Design and incorporate a circuit that acts as a micro-UPS that gives enough time for the RPi to safely shut down when power is disconnected. I have actually successfully done this. The issue is the size of this plus the RPi is far larger than I would have hoped. Also this doesn't solve a  secondary issue: boot up time. Both are in the order of 30 seconds. To make the toy appealing, it should have near-instant boot and shut-down time. (Eg that of a TV or games console).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What alternatives to the RPi could do this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The features/capabilities I ideally need it to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - web server with high-level server-side language (PHP or NodeJS ideally). Although if necessary I could make an android app that does the heavy lifting and sends basic commands to the toy.&#xD;&#xA; - Wifi connectivity&#xD;&#xA; - low level hardware interface for controlling motors or other hardware, via SPI, UART or similar. &#xD;&#xA; - Ability to interface with a camera, to stream to the client (browser or app).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm pretty sure I'll have to compromise on something, and my question is what hardware alternatives to the RPi are a best match. Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8037" RevisionGUID="0955ab17-b6ed-4428-ac8f-d8e545baa7d7" CreationDate="2017-09-04T04:56:31.533" UserId="90" Text="Embedded linux alternatives to Raspberry Pi: corruption-proof on power removal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8037" RevisionGUID="0955ab17-b6ed-4428-ac8f-d8e545baa7d7" CreationDate="2017-09-04T04:56:31.533" UserId="90" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25225" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="5fbb5514-08cf-44aa-b303-f731fd163f1f" CreationDate="2017-09-04T06:58:42.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25226" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8032" RevisionGUID="23c4bea6-42ca-4109-9a03-12988dc3443a" CreationDate="2017-09-04T08:01:49.623" UserId="203" Comment="Syntax, formatting, added relavant info to title" Text="I am a mechanical engineering student and I want to buy a laptop for personal use. I wish to learn to use 3D modelling software like Autodesk Inventor and numerical analysis software like MATLAB on this laptop. What laptops can be used for this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note I am only learning to use the abovementioned software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can the HP Pavilion X360 14-BA073TX be used for this? Are there any models of convertible (2-in-1) laptops by Dell that can be used for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25227" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8032" RevisionGUID="23c4bea6-42ca-4109-9a03-12988dc3443a" CreationDate="2017-09-04T08:01:49.623" UserId="203" Comment="Syntax, formatting, added relavant info to title" Text="Best Laptop for 3D Modeling and Numerical Computing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25235" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8036" RevisionGUID="93c2bcc3-af40-49c2-b0ac-3760cd76e2f7" CreationDate="2017-09-05T12:39:53.050" UserId="57" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[8001],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8043" RevisionGUID="e51e3919-d544-4c74-ae0b-07b5f18f5880" CreationDate="2017-09-05T13:07:02.257" UserId="4346" Text="So, I'm looking to buy a new PSU. After much research and a few other questions on this forum, I've come up with this shortlist of PSUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://amzn.in/akQKpXE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Antec ones fit perfectly in my budget and needs, however, I see a much better opinion regarding Seasonic. Seasonic is slightly out of my budget, however, I'm willing to stretch only and only if there's something absolutely additional that I would gain from it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My main requirement or criteria (in order of priority) are as follows**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. Safety:** Certainty that the PSU won't cause any damage to other components within the system if at all it were to fail OR if there are some irregularities from the wall outlet. (I live in an area that is prone to voltage fluctuations. I currently use a UPS but still, additional safety would mean a lot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. Durability/Stability:** It would maintain decent performance for a good amount of time, at least 2-3 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's all I'm really bothered about. Safety of all my other components being the most important one of all. I really don't mind a bit of noise from the fan, unsleeved cables, or anything else that does not directly impact performance (consistent output) and safety( being most important of all). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also not going to overclock the system in any way. If anything, I might add an additional stick RAM somewhere next year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So my question is,**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does the Antec suffice for the above requirement, if yes, which would be the best of the three. (I'm inclinded on VP450P, don't really know what the &quot;C&quot; in VP500PC represents. I heard the &quot;PC&quot; suffixed ones are made by CWT, while the &quot;P&quot; suffixed ones are made by FSP/Delta seems to be some confusion regarding it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If not, will the Seasonic 430W unit suffice for the below config (as I'm not looking at overclocking or expanding in the near future. Apart from RAM). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I know Seasonic uses better components (mostly Japanese capacitors) and makes it own PSUs (as well as for other brands). However, how exactly does this impact the quality? I mean are non-Japanese components more prone to burst/explosions, or lesser quality voltage regulation, more ripple etc. Basically what exactly is it, that I'm putting at stake if I go for Antec instead of Seasonic. I ask this as I want to keep a balance between keeping my costs low and not compromising on anything absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current rig is as follows**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus H81M-CS&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: i5-4440 3.1Ghz &#xD;&#xA; - Ram: Kingston hyperx fb-dimm &#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Kingston SSDNow 300 (128GB) &#xD;&#xA; - HDD: WD 1TB &#xD;&#xA; - Graphics Card: GTX 750Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Online PSU calculators say I need roughly 300W adding buffer I think a 450 - 550 should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Feel free to recommend anything else you think might fit the above requirements and be cheaper than the ones on my list if any*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8043" RevisionGUID="e51e3919-d544-4c74-ae0b-07b5f18f5880" CreationDate="2017-09-05T13:07:02.257" UserId="4346" Text="Which of these (Antec vs Seasonic) PSU's should I go for" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8043" RevisionGUID="e51e3919-d544-4c74-ae0b-07b5f18f5880" CreationDate="2017-09-05T13:07:02.257" UserId="4346" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25248" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8043" RevisionGUID="2777379e-4eef-4e6c-bcb5-2b7c447b3afc" CreationDate="2017-09-05T17:38:09.460" UserId="4346" Comment="Added details" Text="So, I'm looking to buy a new PSU. After much research and a few other questions on this forum, I've come up with this shortlist of PSUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://amzn.in/akQKpXE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PSUs in the list are as follows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Seasonic S12II 520W - INR: 6,500.00 (USD:101.29)&#xD;&#xA; - Seasonic S12II 430W - INR: 5,500.00 (USD: 85.71)&#xD;&#xA; - Antec VP500PC - INR: 3,630.0 (USD: 56.57)&#xD;&#xA; - Antec VP450P - INR: 3,700.00 (USD: 57.66)&#xD;&#xA; - Antec VP550P -INR: 4,755.00 (USD: 74.10)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Antec ones fit perfectly in my budget and needs, however, I see a much better opinion regarding Seasonic. Seasonic is slightly out of my budget, however, I'm willing to stretch only and only if there's something absolutely additional that I would gain from it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My main requirement or criteria (in order of priority) are as follows**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. Safety:** Certainty that the PSU won't cause any damage to other components within the system if at all it were to fail OR if there are some irregularities from the wall outlet. (I live in an area that is prone to voltage fluctuations. I currently use a UPS but still, additional safety would mean a lot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. Durability/Stability:** It would maintain decent performance for a good amount of time, at least 2-3 years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's all I'm really bothered about. Safety of all my other components being the most important one of all. I really don't mind a bit of noise from the fan, unsleeved cables, or anything else that does not directly impact performance (consistent output) and safety( being most important of all). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also not going to overclock the system in any way. If anything, I might add an additional stick RAM somewhere next year.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So my question is,**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does the Antec suffice for the above requirement, if yes, which would be the best of the three. (I'm inclinded on VP450P, don't really know what the &quot;C&quot; in VP500PC represents. I heard the &quot;PC&quot; suffixed ones are made by CWT, while the &quot;P&quot; suffixed ones are made by FSP/Delta seems to be some confusion regarding it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If not, will the Seasonic 430W unit suffice for the below config (as I'm not looking at overclocking or expanding in the near future. Apart from RAM). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I know Seasonic uses better components (mostly Japanese capacitors) and makes it own PSUs (as well as for other brands). However, how exactly does this impact the quality? I mean are non-Japanese components more prone to burst/explosions, or lesser quality voltage regulation, more ripple etc. Basically what exactly is it, that I'm putting at stake if I go for Antec instead of Seasonic. I ask this as I want to keep a balance between keeping my costs low and not compromising on anything absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current rig is as follows**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: Asus H81M-CS&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: i5-4440 3.1Ghz &#xD;&#xA; - Ram: Kingston hyperx fb-dimm &#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Kingston SSDNow 300 (128GB) &#xD;&#xA; - HDD: WD 1TB &#xD;&#xA; - Graphics Card: GTX 750Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Online PSU calculators say I need roughly 300W adding buffer I think a 450 - 550 should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Feel free to recommend anything else you think might fit the above requirements and be cheaper than the ones on my list if any*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8044" RevisionGUID="c7ca7225-2f04-42d7-bcc3-e691b763b35c" CreationDate="2017-09-05T19:16:53.533" UserId="6047" Text="Just having metal won't necessarily make your laptop more durable (It depends more on construction and some laptop manufacturers put a metal coating over plastic), but if you want to maximize your durability you could consider something like a [toughbook][1] (which is constructed with a magnesium metal alloy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are usually around the $1000 price range and have pretty good specs as well. As it happens there is one on sale at [Newegg for $500][2] (**MSRP $3,800**). It hits all the sweet spots in your requirements too.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It features a **Intel Core i5-3320M**, so the cpu isn't exactly breaking records, however; it has **8gb of DDR3 RAM** as well as a bonus of **128gb SSD** (which in my experience makes even underpowered cpu computers quite snappy). It comes with Windows 7 Pro, but you can always buy Windows 10 for it, if you want the latest and greatest from Windows 10 (small optimizations, windows apps, cortana search).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These things are supposed to be **REALLY** tough, and I believe that the US military uses these types of laptops in the field. You'll have a tough time breaking one of these with daily use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, the [official sales website][4] claims:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In addition, a 6-foot drop &amp; IP65 certified design with a full magnesium alloy case, helps to ensure that the Toughbook 19 will stand up to the most rigorous environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Tested by national independent third party lab following MIL-STD-810G Method 516.6 Procedure IV for transit drop test and IEC 60529 Sections 13.4, 13.6.2, 14.2.5 and 14.3 for IP65&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also claims to come with a gratuitous battery life of **10 hours**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://business.panasonic.com/toughbook/laptop-computers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABYS5K33365&amp;cm_re=toughbook-_-9SIABYS5K33365-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1egI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://business.panasonic.com/toughbook/fully-rugged-laptop-toughbook-19.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25250" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="ac9832f4-26b4-4408-b0ce-08e4a28ef781" CreationDate="2017-09-05T21:17:01.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8045" RevisionGUID="846f5624-41da-408d-b685-ce7d24fca237" CreationDate="2017-09-06T00:47:28.163" UserId="6933" Text="Okay, so a while ago my Viotek V-1200 power supply unit went out. It makes this electrical buzzing noise when I go to power it on, and I don't have the ability to fix it so I'm looking for a new one. The problem is that I'm not sure what PSU to buy. My confusion comes from the amount of wattage my computer would need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SPECS:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: MSI 990FXA-GD65&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: AMD Phenom II x6 1070T&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Memory: x4 DDR3 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Video Card: Nvidia Geoforce GTX 550 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: SATA 7.2K RPM (Barracuda 7200.12)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Optical Drives: x1 DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive &amp; x1 DVD-ROM Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB Ports: 4x USB 2.0 &amp; 2x USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used a power supply calculator (https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator) and its telling me that the recommended PSU wattage is about 461W, and is recommending an EVGA 650 BQ or EVGA 600 B1. These both cost less than $100, but I'm not sure if the price really means anything in this situation. My broken Viotek is 1200W. The jump from 1200 to anywhere below 800 worries me that my desktop won't have enough power. I may be wrong, but that's why I'm asking here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help or PSU recommendations are greatly appreciated. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25252" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8045" RevisionGUID="846f5624-41da-408d-b685-ce7d24fca237" CreationDate="2017-09-06T00:47:28.163" UserId="6933" Text="Correct Power Supply Unit?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25253" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8045" RevisionGUID="846f5624-41da-408d-b685-ce7d24fca237" CreationDate="2017-09-06T00:47:28.163" UserId="6933" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25255" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7880" RevisionGUID="73da1417-5dc8-44b4-967e-345d85da5aee" CreationDate="2017-09-06T08:43:50.797" UserId="6527" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I made a similar thread a couple weeks ago and settled for this [Mini PC][1]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been great so far. I'm pushing 4k on it comfortably and it seems powerful enough for streaming and general web browsing. It's not great at multitasking as you can imagine for a small PC but it's been great for me so far!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M24W77N/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="ebdda1f4-4eda-427d-89bc-0fe4b379db64" CreationDate="2017-09-06T12:11:57.657" UserId="3663" Text="I currently have a Moto G (1st Gen) and have been very happy with it. I like it's durability and unadulterated version of Android. My only gripes are the lack of storage (8gb) and the weak camera (5MP). I use my phone for calls, browsing the web and photos of my children. Don't play very graphics heavy games on it. Grateful for your thoughts, thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Should probably say, although it might be apparent, I want a contract free phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="ebdda1f4-4eda-427d-89bc-0fe4b379db64" CreationDate="2017-09-06T12:11:57.657" UserId="3663" Text="Best android phone for £150 or less?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="ebdda1f4-4eda-427d-89bc-0fe4b379db64" CreationDate="2017-09-06T12:11:57.657" UserId="3663" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="e1b748b5-3e28-4af5-8a6d-d050dcfb69fe" CreationDate="2017-09-06T14:43:30.607" UserId="6935" Text="I use laptop to type my thoughts in OneNote. I don't use paper book because of the following reasons: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I can't cut and paste the same once typed text into other place (as I need to do this certain times, flexibility is needed), where it is easy to look and think on related thoughts. &#xD;&#xA;* Typed text seems to be uniform in clarity of shape.&#xD;&#xA;* Typed text can be searched.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, laptop is the problem, because of the following reasons: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Laptop can't run longer time as like book. If a laptop device with longer battery life, as like the present e-readers, is produced, it will allow using it quickly for note-taking, similar to book.&#xD;&#xA;* Laptop needs to be started to use it, but book need not be. &#xD;&#xA;* Laptop seems to have other abilities than only note taking, this seems to increase maintenance (replacing fan, display, etc) and its cost. &#xD;&#xA;* Even if I am using laptop, for typing, other programs seem to be using its resources. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there devices similar to Microsoft Surface, with writing tool, meant only for note taking and not for any other purpose, to reduce the device cost and durability of the device, similar to e-reader device's focus on reading purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have experience with Chromebooks, but they seem to not have desktop versions of Microsoft Office; I don't know why Chromebooks, still without offline version of Office, is used in schools. If a device with offline versions of note taking software like OneNote, meant only for note taking/typing thoughts is produced, this may get used by many schools, colleges, and everyone who writes or keeps books. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern laptops might be powerful to eliminate problems, but if a device meant for only writing thoughts is produced, this might get even powerful. Is there such a device now, or is it to be produced? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="e1b748b5-3e28-4af5-8a6d-d050dcfb69fe" CreationDate="2017-09-06T14:43:30.607" UserId="6935" Text="Is there a device specifically for inputting our thoughts?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="e1b748b5-3e28-4af5-8a6d-d050dcfb69fe" CreationDate="2017-09-06T14:43:30.607" UserId="6935" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="d2ba0c70-8b4a-44c3-a91d-7154e5e705b9" CreationDate="2017-09-07T04:22:05.183" UserId="203" Comment="Fixed grammar, improved flow" Text="I use a laptop to type my thoughts in OneNote. I prefer it over a physical notebook because of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The ability to quickly copy or transfer the notes via clipboard, where it is easy to look and think on related thoughts. This provides flexibility, which is essential.&#xD;&#xA;* The uniformity of typewritten text, which makes it clear and easy to read&#xD;&#xA;* The ability to search typed text&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are also several disadvantages, such as the following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Laptops have limited battery life, unlike physical notebooks. If a laptop with a longer battery life, like modern e-readers, is produced, it will allow using it quickly for note-taking, similar to book.&#xD;&#xA;* Laptops have a significant startup time, unlike a book, which can be instantaneously used. &#xD;&#xA;* All laptops are general purpose, and have functions other than note taking. This would seem to increase both upfront and ongoing (maintenance) costs.&#xD;&#xA;* Even if I am using laptop, for typing, other programs seem to be using its resources. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there devices similar to Microsoft Surface, with stylus, meant only for note taking and not for any other purpose, to reduce the device cost and increase durability, similar to the focus of e-readers on reading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have experience with Chromebooks, don't seem to have Microsoft Office available. If a device with offline versions of note taking software like OneNote, meant only for note taking is produced, it may become very popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern laptops might be powerful to eliminate problems, but if a device meant for only writing thoughts is produced, this might get even powerful. Is there such a device now, or is it to be produced? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25270" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="d2ba0c70-8b4a-44c3-a91d-7154e5e705b9" CreationDate="2017-09-07T04:22:05.183" UserId="203" Comment="Fixed grammar, improved flow" Text="Device Designed for Note Taking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25271" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="d2ba0c70-8b4a-44c3-a91d-7154e5e705b9" CreationDate="2017-09-07T04:22:05.183" UserId="203" Comment="Fixed grammar, improved flow" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8050" RevisionGUID="f6e67f80-0afb-47df-835b-b607d4103fbb" CreationDate="2017-09-07T10:26:14.167" UserId="6938" Text="I'm interested in this as well. So far I have found that the mini-pc's that have become semi-popular seem to have the most promise such as as the Gigabyte Brix &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This says around 5 watts at idle: http://www.anandtech.com/show/8641/gigabyte-brix-gbbxbt1900-review-a-bay-trail-ucff-pc/6&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ECS Liva underpowers for the win (lol) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This guy says the ECS goes from 4 watts at idle to 6 watts at full usage: https://www.techspot.com/review/907-ecs-liva-mini-pc/page9.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And 10 watts with both the CPU cores and the GPU loaded at 100% output. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I'm not sure if that will satisfy your needs and from the early research I have done thus far there are draw-backs depending on whether you will use a higher resolution display or not. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="699bd118-308d-452a-996e-e74416edf69b" CreationDate="2017-09-07T13:02:22.100" UserId="6935" Comment="deleted 130 characters in body; edited title" Text="I use a laptop to type my thoughts in OneNote. I prefer it over a physical notebook because of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The ability to quickly copy or transfer the notes via clipboard, where it is easy to look and think on related thoughts. This provides flexibility, which is essential.&#xD;&#xA;* The uniformity of typewritten text, which makes it clear and easy to read&#xD;&#xA;* The ability to search typed text&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are also several disadvantages, such as the following: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Laptops have limited battery life, unlike physical notebooks. &#xD;&#xA;* Laptops have a significant startup time, unlike a book, which can be instantaneously used. &#xD;&#xA;* All laptops are general purpose, and have functions other than inputting thoughts. This would seem to increase both upfront and ongoing (maintenance) costs.&#xD;&#xA;* Even if I am using laptop, for typing, other programs seem to be using its resources. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there devices similar to Microsoft Surface, with stylus, meant only for thinking and not for any other purpose, to reduce the device cost and increase durability, similar to the focus of e-readers on reading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have experience with Chromebooks, don't seem to have Microsoft Office available. If a device with offline versions of note-taking software, like OneNote, meant only for note taking is produced, it may become very popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern laptops might be powerful to eliminate problems, but if a device meant for only writing thoughts is produced, this might get even more powerful. Is there such a device now, or is it to be produced? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25280" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8048" RevisionGUID="699bd118-308d-452a-996e-e74416edf69b" CreationDate="2017-09-07T13:02:22.100" UserId="6935" Comment="deleted 130 characters in body; edited title" Text="Device Designed for Inputting-Thoughts/Thinking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8052" RevisionGUID="3afa090b-1328-4543-88b2-3b89ac750cf1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:50:16.527" UserId="6940" Text="I need to build a PC for my work, doesn't need an OS and can be a PC or server motherboard... The motherboard has to be able to work with all of the DDR4 options listed below (Not mixed at the same time of course). Also, would like to support up to 64GB per module if possible, but can settle for 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like the highest data rate possible but can settle for only going up to 2666. Any help would be greatly appreciated!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Data Rate: 2133.33(PC4-17000), 2400(PC4-19200), 2666(PC4-21333), 2933(PC4-23466), and 3200(PC4-25600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Voltage: 1.2v and 1.4v&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Types: ECC, Non-ECC, Registered ECC, and Load Reduced	 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8052" RevisionGUID="3afa090b-1328-4543-88b2-3b89ac750cf1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:50:16.527" UserId="6940" Text="Need help picking out a specific motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8052" RevisionGUID="3afa090b-1328-4543-88b2-3b89ac750cf1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:50:16.527" UserId="6940" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8053" RevisionGUID="3369ac37-f36e-40a3-bcd2-a0058e2a4237" CreationDate="2017-09-07T19:54:28.067" UserId="241" Text="It's virtually certain that no board meeting your requirements exists: you've got three mutually-contradictory requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Registered memory is a technique for increasing the amount of RAM a board can support, at the cost of increased access latency.  Load-reduced memory is a different technique for doing the same thing.  Additionally, slowing down the memory clock can be done on any board to increase the memory capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any board where the manufacturer has added the extra circuitry needed to support registered or LR memory is one where they've already reached the limits from slowing down the memory clock.  I've found a scattering of SuperMicro server boards that support both registered memory and DDR4-2400, but nothing faster, and I haven't found anything that supports both registered and LR memory." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="8aeb0e36-5acb-4afb-970a-fa20dcf58069" CreationDate="2017-09-07T20:29:47.287" UserId="6939" Comment="edit for readability" Text="I currently have a Moto G (1st Gen) and have been very happy with it. I like its durability and unadulterated version of Android. My only gripes are the lack of storage (8GB) and the weak camera (5MP). I use my phone for calls, browsing the web and photos of my children. I don't play very graphics-heavy games on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Grateful for your thoughts, thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** I should probably say, although it might be apparent, I want a contract-free phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25287" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="8aeb0e36-5acb-4afb-970a-fa20dcf58069" CreationDate="2017-09-07T20:29:47.287" UserId="6939" Comment="edit for readability" Text="Best Android phone for £150 or less?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25288" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8047" RevisionGUID="8aeb0e36-5acb-4afb-970a-fa20dcf58069" CreationDate="2017-09-07T20:29:47.287" Comment="Proposed by 6939 approved by 3663 edit id of 625" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25289" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="c1082a24-26a2-43c6-a63f-64529a12a1ea" CreationDate="2017-09-07T21:10:08.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25290" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="98eb5efe-f887-4b55-9124-4b412100cf5d" CreationDate="2017-09-07T22:10:55.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8054" RevisionGUID="a9e1bfe6-88f6-4340-a0f7-fae4ae17dd3c" CreationDate="2017-09-08T00:58:57.167" UserId="5001" Text="I might get crucified for posting this but based on your requirements the device you are looking for is called a palm pilot.  There are several other knock off versions of this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The original [Palm Pilot](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PalmPilot) was released in 1996/1997.  They have a stylus.  You have the ability to use handwriting, handwriting to typed text and peck at an onscreen keyboard.  Additionally they also have [Optional Keyboards](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Folding-PALM-PILOT-Portable-Keyboard-/132316187269?hash=item1ecea8ca85:g:bacAAOSwGy5Y8UBg) if you are not a stylus type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since they have been out of production for about a decade the only place you can find one is [Ebay](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Palm-Pilot-VII-Vintage-Handheld-Organizer-TESTED-and-WORKS-GREAT-Ships-Free-/222624957592?epid=30005607&amp;hash=item33d57b4498:g:dt8AAOSwPYNZlQoU).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if you can get software support for them but it seems there are still some die hards out [there](https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Palm-and-WebOS/64-Bit-Windows7-8-8-1-10-USB-drivers-for-Palm-Desktop/td-p/2159769) that still use this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25295" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8050" RevisionGUID="f6bc7c3b-f37e-48b5-9744-0e9c9d4f46fe" CreationDate="2017-09-08T01:48:00.840" UserId="203" Comment="Improved flow/formatting" Text="I'm interested in this as well. So far I have found a few promising mini PCs that are somewhat popular, such as as the Gigabyte Brix.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anandtech's review of a Bay Trail **Gigabyte Brix** shows a power consumption of [5.79 W at idle and 17.28 W under load.](http://www.anandtech.com/show/8641/gigabyte-brix-gbbxbt1900-review-a-bay-trail-ucff-pc/6) The **ECS Liva** looks even better, with a Techspot review claiming the ECS goes [from 4 watts at idle to 10 watts at full load](https://www.techspot.com/review/907-ecs-liva-mini-pc/page9.html) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if that will satisfy your needs, and there may be drawbacks if your display has a overly high resolution. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8056" RevisionGUID="b4a9cad5-bde1-475e-87ae-72fd9424ff22" CreationDate="2017-09-08T09:24:33.017" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the **Wileyfox Swift 2 Plus**, available at Amazon for [£149.99 + Free shipping](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MFEOBJY/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like Motorola's Moto G series, the Swift 2 has a relatively unadulterated Android experience. In this case, you have the option of sticking with the CyanogenMod 13, which it ships with, upgrading to their official ROM, currently at 7.1.2, or installing LineageOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage is 32 GB, which should be sufficient for most, especially if microSD expansion and cloud storage are taken advantage of. RAM is similarly generous, with 3 GB, meaning multitasking and cache won't be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera sensor is a decent 16 MP, though the dynamic range is unspectacular. The aperture (f/2.0) is larger than most phones at this price, though as can be expected, there is no Optical Image Stabilization. Battery life is mediocre at best, though some users report [5 to 7 hours SoT](https://www.reddit.com/r/wileyfox/comments/636di8/swift_2_battery_life_is_it_defective_or_have_i/dfs3e5r/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display is a undistinguished 720p LCD. It has most of the usual extras, such as NFC, USB-C and Speed Charging. The fingerprint sensor is on the back of the phone – though normally handy, it may be less convenient if you usually leave it lying on a table, – and unfortunately the second SIM slot only supports 2G and is obstructed if you choose to install a microSD card for storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the Wileyfox Swift 2 Plus is a solid and stylish phone for the sub-£200 segment, and I doubt you'll go wrong with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Techradar review](http://www.techradar.com/reviews/wileyfox-swift-2-plus-review)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8057" RevisionGUID="5686953c-720f-48a6-b0fb-be4b987351ed" CreationDate="2017-09-08T11:03:40.633" UserId="6942" Text="So, I'm looking for a wireless router that can share the files of a connected USB-drive so they can be viewed by any PC connected to the router with only the use of a browser and http.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The router would be needed to make the files available for viewing with a browser at http://routerIP:portnumber, since the OS of the connected PCs is very limited and can't use ftp or connect to devices on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone happens to know such a router (if it happens to exist), or alternatively a router that works well with custom firmware, please do share your wisdom with someone who's a complete rookie at all this stuff." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25299" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8057" RevisionGUID="5686953c-720f-48a6-b0fb-be4b987351ed" CreationDate="2017-09-08T11:03:40.633" UserId="6942" Text="Looking for a wireless router with a USB-port that can share a connected flash drive's files so they can be viewed with a browser using http, no ftp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25300" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8057" RevisionGUID="5686953c-720f-48a6-b0fb-be4b987351ed" CreationDate="2017-09-08T11:03:40.633" UserId="6942" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="ab8b369d-d972-40a0-b50f-a797aff14561" CreationDate="2017-09-08T12:23:36.973" UserId="6943" Text="since there's a plethora of laptops available, which **used** laptop can you recommend that meets (all of the) following requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price around 600€/700$ (or a little more, I might find one in bad optical condition or stretch my budget a bit if it's *really* worth it)&#xD;&#xA;- win 7 was preinstalled from factory&#xD;&#xA;- 16:10 screen, resolution may be as low as 1280 x 800, but higher preferred. Non-glossy display preferred, but glossy is fine&#xD;&#xA;- 13&quot; or 15&quot; if light&#xD;&#xA;- battery life at least 6h (with new battery), preferrably a battery that can be replaced by myself&#xD;&#xA;- very good keyboard (Thinkpad or Macbook pro as reference)&#xD;&#xA;- SSD, 128GB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- if ram isn't upgradable, 4GB the very least&#xD;&#xA;- i5 or better&#xD;&#xA;- not too shitty trackpad. Doesn't have to be Macbook-good but also shouldn't be Thinkpad T410-shitty. Can be small though&#xD;&#xA;- cooling fan accessible for cleaning&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't need: USB 3 (or any other port besides USB 2), Webcam, dedicated gpu.. You get the picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Build quality and reliability should be good. Rather business grade than consumer. Please recommend dell laptops only if they are widely known to be very reliable as I have made only bad experiences with dell laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much, I appreciate your help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="ab8b369d-d972-40a0-b50f-a797aff14561" CreationDate="2017-09-08T12:23:36.973" UserId="6943" Text="Which used laptop meets these requirements best?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="ab8b369d-d972-40a0-b50f-a797aff14561" CreationDate="2017-09-08T12:23:36.973" UserId="6943" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8059" RevisionGUID="facbc005-3bb2-438f-a3f5-f3f5fe979a5e" CreationDate="2017-09-08T14:19:50.470" UserId="6475" Text="You kind of answered your own question here, the only things that fit those specs will be a used macbook or a used Lenovo T5XX series or higher from within the past 3-4 years. You'll likely need to source a new battery and the SSD (Lenovo only, for a Mac you're SOL on these most likely), but everything else on the spec list you can find by searching on Craigslist or Ebay and having some patience. Finding used product listings that actually apply to you is going to be impractical at best without location information, and timing is hard in that capacity as well. By the time anyone finds something, posts it here, and you see it, the item may well be sold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also take this list into a few local PC shops, any major metro area these days has at least a few repair spots that also sell used hardware. You'll often find them advertising on used goods websites as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The factory-installed Win7 could be a bit of an issue. A lot of used hardware resellers will sell a laptop with a scrubbed hard drive and a fresh installation of Windows. There's also the potential for hidden malware and other issues, so I'd highly recommend getting a laptop with an OEM Windows key (the laptop will have this as long as it shipped with Windows). You'll then want to clean the hard drive yourself, preferably using DiskPart, and install a fresh copy of Windows that you download directly from Microsoft. This will avoid most issues with malware. If you get a laptop from a shop, odds are all this will be done for you but you can definitely ask about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8061" RevisionGUID="86a97e37-960a-4979-a46a-6d39a7f51a7f" CreationDate="2017-09-08T20:57:00.483" UserId="6639" Text="I need an external 4TB hdd with usb 3.0 connection. I need it for using as a storage for my (local network) *media server* and for *regular backups*. I want to buy a *silent, reliable and longevous disk*, its speed is not the most important point. But, if possible, i'd like to have around 100/100MBytes per second read/write speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My variants are listed [here (imgur pick)](http://i.imgur.com/7SAGpzW.png):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STDR4000200, &#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STEA4000400 and &#xD;&#xA; * Western Digital My Passport 4 TB (WDBUAX0040B) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are 2.5' usb-powered HDD's; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STEB4000200 and &#xD;&#xA; * Western Digital WD Elements Desktop 4 TB (WDBWLG0040HBK-EESN)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;are 3.5' HDD's with external power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, I would prefer 2.5' size, if these HDD's aren't worse than their big analogs. Besides, I think that not soldered usb port have not of the last importance. Finally, I do not trust Seagate very much, because I had some unfortunate experience with their products, but this can only be a biased opinion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25311" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8061" RevisionGUID="86a97e37-960a-4979-a46a-6d39a7f51a7f" CreationDate="2017-09-08T20:57:00.483" UserId="6639" Text="Help me choose an external (USB 3.0) hdd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25312" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8061" RevisionGUID="86a97e37-960a-4979-a46a-6d39a7f51a7f" CreationDate="2017-09-08T20:57:00.483" UserId="6639" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8064" RevisionGUID="5ef056b7-3068-45be-9ff9-d246755cf232" CreationDate="2017-09-09T12:52:42.427" UserId="1410" Text="A tad over budget at $165, but you might find it cheaper elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am on my fourth [Ulefone][1] and have been happy with them all. I bought my first because it was the first 64-bit smartphone &amp; have continued to upgrade ever since.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some are sub £150, but I am recommending the [Ulefoen Power][2] :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Operating system : Android 7.0 CPU: MTK6750T, Octa-Core 1.5GHz  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage: 4GB RAM +64GB ROM with Max. Expansion Supported 256GB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Memory  Card: TF Card   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; SIM : Dual sim dual standby, Nano SIM +Nano SIM / TF    &#xD;&#xA;&gt; WiFi : 2.4/5GHz  802.11a/b/g/n.   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Size: 5.5 inch   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Resolution: FHD  1920*1080 pixels   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Glass : Corning® Gorilla® 3   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Camera: Rear camera 13.0MP+ Front camera 8.0MP with Flash Capacity  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; (mAh): 6050mAh(Lithium-ion Polymer Battery) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Charge: 9V/2A Quick charge,  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standby Time: 1160 Hours   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Touch ID: Front Fingerprint Scanner    &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Bluetooth: Bluetooth 4.0   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Positioning: Gyro Sensor GPS/Glonass, Gravity Sensor, E-Compass, Touch Sensor, OTG，LED notification  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Functions: FM,Miracast,hotknot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like you, I don't play very graphics-heavy games, but with octo-core you certainly could. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It only has 4gB, which you might not like, but a cheap SD card will fix that. I install everything on SD and have not seen a performance hit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 13MP and 8MP cameras should please you; it is rare to see such a good front camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main point for me is that stonking 6050 mAH battery, which means that I charge it every 4 days or so (although they claim Standby Time: 1160 Hours).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I showed a few previous Ulefones to chaps at the office, who bought one and have been happy with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ulefone.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Smartphone-1080pixel-MTK6750T-Octa-Core-Fingerprint-Black/dp/B07255WNYG/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25322" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="9a41e34f-362f-40e6-8f19-f44addd4ef94" CreationDate="2017-09-09T13:31:15.053" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8065" RevisionGUID="2cbd8b1f-819a-490f-b1be-e7aee5ee6af9" CreationDate="2017-09-09T13:50:18.077" UserId="6943" Text="You might want to look at Wacom Bamboo Spark/Slate/Folio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.wacom.com/en-de/products/smartpads/bamboo-folio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or even simpler one of those pens that convert your handwriting into digital format like these (just google top result)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.toptenreviews.com/electronics/family/best-digital-pens/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and then use iPad or computer to review, search edit etc.?&#xD;&#xA;This is rather cheap and easily available, if it suits your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8065" RevisionGUID="c107029e-0749-4509-b9f6-f266f4a05eca" CreationDate="2017-09-09T14:03:14.633" UserId="6943" Comment="added 588 characters in body" Text="You might want to look at Wacom Bamboo Spark/Slate/Folio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.wacom.com/en-de/products/smartpads/bamboo-folio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or even simpler one of those pens that convert your handwriting into digital format like these (just google top result)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.toptenreviews.com/electronics/family/best-digital-pens/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and then use iPad or computer to review, search edit etc.?&#xD;&#xA;This is rather cheap and easily available, if it suits your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something like the microsoft surface, there are ereaders that allow you to write on them, like sony DPT-RP1 for example or onyx has one as well. I don't know how they perform in terms of note taking because I have not researched them as they are very expensive. I strongly belive that they will become cheap and will be everywhere in the not too distant future. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you could simply use the cheapest tablet you can find that supports a digitizer pen (or maybe even just a simple stylus. I don't know how well that works) like the Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25325" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7358" RevisionGUID="546745c9-7c1a-4b0b-a9fb-cbffd8c1f07f" CreationDate="2017-09-09T18:34:07.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8066" RevisionGUID="b87bab92-1b89-472f-85b2-48c73e3b4777" CreationDate="2017-09-10T02:12:11.150" UserId="6938" Text="The **Liberty Computer** is a small, credit card sized computer that is designed to use minimal power as well as offer the highest standard of privacy. In this reviewer video and [interview with the developer][1] the reviewer reports under **3 W** idle usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this [**Crowd Supply**][2] page the computer is called the EOMA68 Micro-Desktop computer. The cost is 65 dollars pre-order but is projected to drop to 30 dollars on the market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GspUDdNlsng&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68/micro-desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25329" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="a379c60c-8183-454b-8350-36faf8e5220b" CreationDate="2017-09-10T10:39:35.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8067" RevisionGUID="67556a39-c14e-43a6-8fe0-0225990a125f" CreationDate="2017-09-10T10:57:06.270" UserId="203" Text="Instead of relying on theoretical considerations, it is wise to take into account real measured hash rates. Fortunately, since many tech sites have taken upon themselves to do these benchmarks, and publish the results, you do not have to actually purchase the cards to get hard numbers for yourself. These numbers can reveal certain unexpected deviations from the theoretically expected hash rates: For example many miners have found an unexplained decrease in hash rate on the newer Polaris GPUs at larger DAG sizes. [(1)](http://www.legitreviews.com/ethereum-hashrate-performance-drop-might-coming-amd-nvidia-gpus-tested_195702)[(2)](https://www.techspot.com/article/1438-ethereum-mining-gpu-benchmark/) This can mean trouble over the long term, as those cards become obsolete for mining before paying for themselves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at the benchmark results, we can immediately see some interesting figures. The older R9 390/Xs perform superbly, and do not appear to degrade at higher DAG sizes. It's somewhat surprising to see the GTX 1070 above the 1080, something we would never know just looking at the 1080's higher core count and memory bandwidth. It appears that GDDR5 has superior latency characteristics for mining than the GDDR5X used in the 1080 (Another reason spec sheets do not tell the whole story: latency information is missing). The GTX 1060 also performs adequately, though for future proofing, the 6 GB version is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, due to the higher power consumption and lower availability of the older Radeon cards, although the R9 390 is a viable candidate, I do not heavily recommend it. Essentially, the decision is between the 1070 and the 1060. The choice between the two essentially boils down to how much capital you plan on investing into your mining gear. Since for a more expensive GPU, the rest of the system makes up for a smaller proportion of total costs, I would recommend the GTX 1070 as a first choice and the GTX 1060 or R9 390/X GPUs as secondary options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25337" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="1151caff-8766-4bac-a284-202e96210470" CreationDate="2017-09-11T03:05:51.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="fece1918-a573-4f3d-908a-0e9ebdd9fae3" CreationDate="2017-09-11T03:46:02.793" UserId="6737" Comment="edited body" Text="so basically I've gotten the chance to build a computer that has a budget of $2,000 to $3,000. But I just don't know anything about computers. See I'm in dire need for an upgrade from my current MacBook Pro, and this is because I work using the 3D Animation program known as Blender. I need a PC that renders animations in Blender extremely fast, both Cycles and Internal. I also want to use this computer for gaming. I won't keep too many games on it, I for the most part want to just run Dolphin Emulator on it and maybe a few other PC games, but I need to know what I need in order to build this computer that would be within my budget. I don't know anything, nothing about CPU, GPU, nothing. I want to get a high quality monitor, 4K or higher, a good keyboard which I can probably choose on my own, and uh yeah that's pretty much it. Here are the specs for my recent MacBook Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor - 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory - 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2048 MB Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my sister got her computer built and i want to follow the same steps she did which was getting all the information and then buying the parts needed, and then going to Fries Electronic so I can get it built. Again, not sure about what all that info is and I don't know if this is possible but I heard that you can have multiple graphic cards in the computer for very good improvement, if anyone can explain to me what I need (but act like you're talking to a 5 year old) then I'd be all set. Anyways, thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8070" RevisionGUID="3b55a936-bd69-499a-9633-84a1f9c6494f" CreationDate="2017-09-11T08:42:09.783" UserId="6956" Text="[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFbFr.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder that what is the distance between top of PCIe x 16 connector and top of GPU card? I think it has a constant value, so if constant value, it will be recommended in any document, but I can't find anything related to it.&#xD;&#xA;Anyone can help me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8070" RevisionGUID="3b55a936-bd69-499a-9633-84a1f9c6494f" CreationDate="2017-09-11T08:42:09.783" UserId="6956" Text="What is exactly GPU dimension" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8070" RevisionGUID="3b55a936-bd69-499a-9633-84a1f9c6494f" CreationDate="2017-09-11T08:42:09.783" UserId="6956" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8071" RevisionGUID="f7a96c6c-bf2f-4967-ae5a-5764449ec9e1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T09:33:14.097" UserId="4628" Text="The reference document for this is [PCI-E Card electromechanical specification](http://read.pudn.com/downloads166/ebook/758109/PCI_Express_CEM_1.1.pdf). I believe the relevant figure is 6.2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the distance you're asking about is not specified at all, because the lug (called &quot;detail F&quot; in the spec) has no connectivity and is present to prevent insertion of PCI-E cards into PCI slots. It doesn't have to be positioned at a precise distance from the bracket for the card to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is specified is the distance between the card bracket and the notch inside the connector, which is 59,05mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzVOz.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8071" RevisionGUID="4ef56fca-3519-4115-8962-7455ec4c5b07" CreationDate="2017-09-11T09:39:23.063" UserId="4628" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="The reference document for this is [PCI-E Card electromechanical specification](http://read.pudn.com/downloads166/ebook/758109/PCI_Express_CEM_1.1.pdf). I believe the relevant figure is 6.2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see, the distance you're asking about is not specified at all, because the lug (referred to as &quot;detail F&quot; in the figure) has no connectivity and is present to prevent insertion of PCI-E cards into PCI slots. It doesn't have to be positioned at a precise distance from the bracket for the card to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is specified is the distance between the card bracket and the notch inside the connector, which is 59,05mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzVOz.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="e6261526-fecf-4242-9cee-26b4a7f468d5" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:25:55.240" UserId="273" Comment="edited info from the comments into the question so comments can be cleaned up" Text="so basically I've gotten the chance to build a computer that has a budget of $2,000 to $3,000. But I just don't know anything about computers. See I'm in dire need for an upgrade from my current MacBook Pro, and this is because I work using the 3D Animation program known as Blender. I need a PC that renders animations in Blender extremely fast, both Cycles and Internal. I also want to use this computer for gaming. I won't keep too many games on it, I for the most part want to just run Dolphin Emulator on it and maybe a few other PC games, but I need to know what I need in order to build this computer that would be within my budget. I don't know anything, nothing about CPU, GPU, nothing. I want to get a high quality monitor, 4K or higher, a good keyboard which I can probably choose on my own, and uh yeah that's pretty much it. Here are the specs for my recent MacBook Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor - 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory - 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2048 MB Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my sister got her computer built and i want to follow the same steps she did which was getting all the information and then buying the parts needed, and then going to Fries Electronic so I can get it built. Again, not sure about what all that info is and I don't know if this is possible but I heard that you can have multiple graphic cards in the computer for very good improvement, if anyone can explain to me what I need (but act like you're talking to a 5 year old) then I'd be all set. Anyways, thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Info: Parts don't need to be available right now, things can wait a few weeks / months (reference date: 2nd August 2017)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25345" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="e6261526-fecf-4242-9cee-26b4a7f468d5" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:25:55.240" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by -1 edit id of 630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="299f0500-9815-4f03-b14f-06211e41e76a" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:25:55.240" UserId="60" Comment="edited info from the comments into the question so comments can be cleaned up" Text="so basically I've gotten the chance to build a computer that has a budget of $2,000 to $3,000. But I just don't know anything about computers. See I'm in dire need for an upgrade from my current MacBook Pro, and this is because I work using the 3D Animation program known as Blender. I need a PC that renders animations in Blender extremely fast, both Cycles and Internal. I also want to use this computer for gaming. I won't keep too many games on it, I for the most part want to just run Dolphin Emulator on it and maybe a few other PC games, but I need to know what I need in order to build this computer that would be within my budget. I don't know anything, nothing about CPU, GPU, nothing. I want to get a high quality monitor, 4K or higher, a good keyboard which I can probably choose on my own, and uh yeah that's pretty much it. Here are the specs for my recent MacBook Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor - 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory - 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2048 MB Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my sister got her computer built and i want to follow the same steps she did which was getting all the information and then buying the parts needed, and then going to Fries Electronic so I can get it built. Again, not sure about what all that info is and I don't know if this is possible but I heard that you can have multiple graphic cards in the computer for very good improvement, if anyone can explain to me what I need (but act like you're talking to a 5 year old) then I'd be all set. Anyways, thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Info: Parts don't need to be available right now, things can wait a few weeks / months." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8061" RevisionGUID="ec8054cb-12a6-49ba-8c73-a4e2e436b95f" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:26:13.480" UserId="5001" Comment="corrected feet to inches.  Have not seen a 3.5' hard drive in a LONG time if ever" Text="I need an external 4TB hdd with usb 3.0 connection. I need it for using as a storage for my (local network) *media server* and for *regular backups*. I want to buy a *silent, reliable and longevous disk*, its speed is not the most important point. But, if possible, i'd like to have around 100/100MBytes per second read/write speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My variants are listed [here (imgur pick)](http://i.imgur.com/7SAGpzW.png):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STDR4000200, &#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STEA4000400 and &#xD;&#xA; * Western Digital My Passport 4 TB (WDBUAX0040B) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are 2.5&quot; usb-powered HDD's; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Seagate STEB4000200 and &#xD;&#xA; * Western Digital WD Elements Desktop 4 TB (WDBWLG0040HBK-EESN)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;are 3.5&quot; HDD's with external power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, I would prefer 2.5&quot; size, if these HDD's aren't worse than their big analogs. Besides, I think that not soldered usb port have not of the last importance. Finally, I do not trust Seagate very much, because I had some unfortunate experience with their products, but this can only be a biased opinion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25348" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8061" RevisionGUID="ec8054cb-12a6-49ba-8c73-a4e2e436b95f" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:26:13.480" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 629" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25350" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8072" RevisionGUID="a8c6ebac-2562-48ed-a5f1-407330aa40e2" CreationDate="2017-09-11T15:03:30.387" UserId="6959" Text="I want to upgrade my work PC's memory but I'm not sure what to order. It's running Ubuntu 16.04 and has a Fujitsu D3128-A2 mainboard. Four out of eight memory slots are occupied. This is the output of `sudo lshw -short -C memory`:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![OS memory information][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these information enough to select new RAM? I'd like to add another 32GB (which the mainboard can handle according to the German manual). I have not been able to find the current make of memory in a shop, which is SK hynix H5TQ4G83AFR. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sscSV.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25351" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8072" RevisionGUID="a8c6ebac-2562-48ed-a5f1-407330aa40e2" CreationDate="2017-09-11T15:03:30.387" UserId="6959" Text="What make of RAM would compliment my existing one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25352" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8072" RevisionGUID="a8c6ebac-2562-48ed-a5f1-407330aa40e2" CreationDate="2017-09-11T15:03:30.387" UserId="6959" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="82cbaf0b-9660-4668-affa-0b803b00b322" CreationDate="2017-09-11T17:00:54.610" UserId="6960" Text="I'm here to ask what has been already asked many times. Is a laptop better than a desktop computer? Usually, people say &quot; According to your need&quot; or &quot;Desktop PCs because are more powerful and less expensive&quot;... but looking at my need, would it be a right decision? I'm 19 and I graduated this year and after 3 years I have studied 3D ( So I'm not new in this field), I decided to get a computer( now I have money unlike 3 years ago) for modelling, sculpting and rendering. I aimed to buy to Asus Roger GL753VE-GC004T( my budget doesn't overcome 1300$). Here the hardware in a nutshell:&#xD;&#xA;-CPU: i7 7700HQ 2,8Ghz - 3,8Ghz&#xD;&#xA;-GPU: 1050 To 4GB&#xD;&#xA;-RAM: 16GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;-Display: Full HD 17&quot;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, with the computer I will use Blender, ZBrush, Photoshop and I'm going to start VFX.&#xD;&#xA;In my country ( Italy) the field of  Computer Graphics 3D is new and it's at a low level unlike abroad where, for instance, in the UK will be easier to apply for these jobs. I'm not a novice but I'm an intermediate level, so as soon as I will get the pc, I'm going to spend a lot of time to create advanced stuff.&#xD;&#xA;**For example how much would be an assembled desktop computer more powerful than the laptop I chose.** At first, I wanted to buy the laptop pc because after I will have created many rendering and I will have shared on my portfolio, I would have applied for a job in Italy ( for a short time - just to produce something for someone ) and abroad ( permanently)  as In Italy it's difficult. &#xD;&#xA;However this Asus has good features, but what stops me is the GPU, sometimes I think that in future I will need a more powerful one, but is an assembled desktop worth to lose the mobility with a greater GPU. **Does a 1050 Ti live up?** Then, I thought that If I will work for someone in Italy( that is probably far from my house), It's not sure I would work for someone that provides the hardware I need to work( because the Desktop would stay at home.) There are many questions in my head but there is a  great confusion in it, I hope you understand! I'm afraid to choose the wrong thing and I want advice from anyone how knows what I'm talking about. Can you help me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25354" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="82cbaf0b-9660-4668-affa-0b803b00b322" CreationDate="2017-09-11T17:00:54.610" UserId="6960" Text="What would be the best choice for me between a laptop and a desktop pc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25355" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="82cbaf0b-9660-4668-affa-0b803b00b322" CreationDate="2017-09-11T17:00:54.610" UserId="6960" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25356" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="db770ba3-bbd3-4810-81df-5fc3ff742117" CreationDate="2017-09-11T17:11:13.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25357" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="8be1a088-ada7-4144-896f-7f1f8c043729" CreationDate="2017-09-11T18:11:13.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25358" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="114465f6-7075-4ee9-a4a7-0f4d86a1a5eb" CreationDate="2017-09-11T19:46:12.967" UserId="273" Comment="greatly improved formatting and improved style" Text="I'm here to ask what has been already asked many times. Is a laptop better than a desktop computer?&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Usually, people say &quot;According to your need&quot; or &quot;Desktop PCs because they are more powerful and less expensive&quot; ... but looking at my need, would it be the right decision? I'm 19 and graduated this year and after 3 years I have studied 3D (So I'm not new in this field), I decided to get a computer (now I have money unlike 3 years ago) for modelling, sculpting and rendering. I aimed to buy to [Asus Roger GL753VE-GC004T (Amazon Italy)][1] (my budget doesn't overcome 1300$). Here is the hardware in a nutshell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: i7 7700HQ 2,8Ghz - 3,8Ghz&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: 1050 Ti 4GB&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 16GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- Display: Full HD 17&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, with the computer I will use Blender, ZBrush, Photoshop and I'm going to start VFX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my country (Italy) the field of  Computer Graphics 3D is new and it's at a low level unlike abroad where, for instance, in the UK it will be easier to apply for these jobs. I'm not a novice but at an intermediate level, so as soon as I will get the pc, I'm going to spend a lot of time to create advanced stuff.&#xD;&#xA;**For example how much would an assembled desktop computer be more powerful than the laptop I chose.** At first, I wanted to buy the laptop pc because after I will have created many rendering and I will have shared on my portfolio, I would have applied for a job in Italy (for a short time - just to produce something for someone) and abroad (permanently) as in Italy it's difficult. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However this Asus has good features, but what stops me is the GPU, sometimes I think that in the future I will need a more powerful one, but is an assembled desktop worth to lose the mobility with a greater GPU. **Does a 1050 Ti live up?** Then, I thought that if I will work for someone in Italy (that is probably far from my house), it's not sure I would work for someone that provides the hardware I need to work (because the desktop would stay at home). There are many questions in my head but there is a  great confusion in it, I hope you understand! I'm afraid to choose the wrong thing and I want advice from anyone how knows what I'm talking about. Can you help me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B01MS9VC14/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25359" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="114465f6-7075-4ee9-a4a7-0f4d86a1a5eb" CreationDate="2017-09-11T19:46:12.967" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 6960 edit id of 631" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25360" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="aa6e98d2-f672-4fa5-bc85-7a7328761b06" CreationDate="2017-09-11T21:11:14.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8072" RevisionGUID="94c510ac-5c04-4eff-9448-64fa850f26a2" CreationDate="2017-09-12T08:06:31.697" UserId="6959" Comment="added a photo and clarified" Text="I want to upgrade my work PC's memory but I'm not sure what to order. It's running Ubuntu 16.04 and has a Fujitsu D3128-A2 mainboard. Four out of eight memory slots are occupied. This is the output of `sudo lshw -short -C memory`:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![OS memory information][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these information enough to select new RAM? I'd like to add another 32GB (which the mainboard can handle according to the German manual). I have not been able to find the current make of memory in a shop, which is SK hynix H5TQ4G83AFR. &#xD;&#xA;E: As pointed out in the comments, that seems to be the name of the chip, while this is apparently the correct ID for the whole thing:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sscSV.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/05trZ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25370" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="55d7d22d-8922-4fa6-9e5b-6fb2bbaa0ee8" CreationDate="2017-09-12T09:14:07.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25372" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8070" RevisionGUID="a480b2d4-7818-455f-8c1d-4ec26b860849" CreationDate="2017-09-12T17:57:34.657" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25374" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="98bc46eb-ee8a-43c7-bc41-129bc96082e3" CreationDate="2017-09-12T19:17:43.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25375" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8076" RevisionGUID="9201ca19-fbc2-44e4-a4f0-e40d75a1d574" CreationDate="2017-09-12T22:34:08.300" UserId="6966" Text="I own a small production company and use a lot of hard drives to backup my data. I want to find an affordable solution for file storage.&#xD;&#xA;What is the best way to achieve this? It doesn't need to be attached to a network nor 24/7 running. I imagine this as one huge hard drive where I can dump files from my editing computer.&#xD;&#xA;Could this be a cheap PC with multiple hard drives, or something else?&#xD;&#xA;Easy and hassle free would be great, thanks!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25376" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8076" RevisionGUID="9201ca19-fbc2-44e4-a4f0-e40d75a1d574" CreationDate="2017-09-12T22:34:08.300" UserId="6966" Text="Suggestions for storage pc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25377" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8076" RevisionGUID="9201ca19-fbc2-44e4-a4f0-e40d75a1d574" CreationDate="2017-09-12T22:34:08.300" UserId="6966" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25382" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8078" RevisionGUID="6f9d5dcc-cfa9-448f-acc9-35e6c9e2b9bb" CreationDate="2017-09-13T19:06:46.003" UserId="6973" Text="I am trying to record 5-8 RCA A/V inputs on an Ubuntu machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the research I've managed so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Easycap RCA to USB is a good device at a dirt cheap price. Except if your give it an HD video, it chops it up into a square, not sure why. Please let me know if there is a way around this? (I am yet to test if this is compatible with Linux+MythTV)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- DVRs/NVRs are made for security purposes and while they are great for video capture, getting video files off them, using a cron job, is incredibly hard, even if you include a NAS. Unless someone knows of a manufacturer that makes this super easy? (The manufacturers want you to use their software, not your own code).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sensoray Model 1012 is an 8 channel frame grabber which captures raw uncompressed footage, and they say that to save mp4 videos, I am going to have to encode the videos in real time (like a DVR). Also this is incredibly computationally expensive, and according to them I would only be able to do this for 2 channels and not all 8. I thought perhaps I could run ffmpeg on Nvidia to get this done, but I'm not sure this would work. (slightly expensive).&#xD;&#xA;If anyone can point me in a better direction I would appreciate it. Other devices, manufactures who can give me un-programmed DVRs, etc etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few more details, the video needs to record uninterrupted for a few days, and so I cannot have the capture process break in the middle. Therefore, continuous capture plus continuous saving of video+audio. The video files can be broken up into 1-2GB files for ease of storage and moved off the capture device, as long as the capturing is not affected." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25383" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8078" RevisionGUID="6f9d5dcc-cfa9-448f-acc9-35e6c9e2b9bb" CreationDate="2017-09-13T19:06:46.003" UserId="6973" Text="How to record 5-8 RCA A/V inputs on Linux? (24/7)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25384" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8078" RevisionGUID="6f9d5dcc-cfa9-448f-acc9-35e6c9e2b9bb" CreationDate="2017-09-13T19:06:46.003" UserId="6973" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8079" RevisionGUID="279a0c6c-a9a3-459a-9439-6f0b7d3db176" CreationDate="2017-09-14T09:50:12.663" UserId="6974" Text="I'm searching a portable machine for programming and I don't know which is the best between laptop and chromebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least a 5hr life battery&#xD;&#xA; - I'll run linux (probably ubuntu or lubntu)&#xD;&#xA; - I'm a web dev and I'll use react/redux, node and loopback.js&#xD;&#xA; - my budget is 400€&#xD;&#xA; - I don't need a GPU&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like to have a good speed while working&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8079" RevisionGUID="279a0c6c-a9a3-459a-9439-6f0b7d3db176" CreationDate="2017-09-14T09:50:12.663" UserId="6974" Text="Chromebook or laptop for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8079" RevisionGUID="279a0c6c-a9a3-459a-9439-6f0b7d3db176" CreationDate="2017-09-14T09:50:12.663" UserId="6974" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25388" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8080" RevisionGUID="09c76a37-7da8-4378-8c15-9fa363d5def5" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:45:14.957" UserId="181" Text="I already have the Samsung S8 and now my boss at work gave me an iPhone 6 as a work phone so now I have two phones just to keep two phone numbers. It would be more convenient if a phone could use two SIM cards and two phone numbers with one phone. IIUC Lenovo produces such a phone but high-end smartphones usually don't have this feature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend what I should get?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25389" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8080" RevisionGUID="09c76a37-7da8-4378-8c15-9fa363d5def5" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:45:14.957" UserId="181" Text="SmartPhone that can have two SIM cards in EU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25390" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8080" RevisionGUID="09c76a37-7da8-4378-8c15-9fa363d5def5" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:45:14.957" UserId="181" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8080" RevisionGUID="f240f0e3-96c5-4fcc-986e-0f6e8f1c8456" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:54:20.783" UserId="181" Comment="added 134 characters in body" Text="I already have the Samsung S8 and now my boss at work gave me an iPhone 6 as a work phone so now I have two phones just to keep two phone numbers. It would be more convenient if a phone could use two SIM cards and two phone numbers with one phone. IIUC Lenovo produces such a phone but high-end smartphones usually don't have this feature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend what I should get? I'd like to know a few alternatives but I have no particular budget restrictions, I can afford a couple of hundreds of USD for this. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25400" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7720" RevisionGUID="9cad461e-64c8-48e1-9bc1-246e81c3d14d" CreationDate="2017-09-14T17:37:47.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25401" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="ff4d46a7-3fbb-41a7-b023-76e01c04f7ae" CreationDate="2017-09-14T18:37:51.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8083" RevisionGUID="c760be7d-e8f5-45cf-86ac-f548d9f1985e" CreationDate="2017-09-14T18:45:02.693" UserId="6213" Text="A Lenovo T420s if you like the old IBM keyboards (like model M), or T430s or above if you like the island-type keyboards. They can all fit extra batteries, larger batteries, and are easy to upgrade and repair. &#xA;&#xA;Also look at the T520 and T530 (and above) for the same reasons - these have bigger displays. They typically feature only an intel HD graphics chip. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8084" RevisionGUID="ae2d9e91-e905-4ad2-83d8-ee62077621e5" CreationDate="2017-09-14T18:50:46.737" UserId="6213" Text="Synology has a line of diskstations with every RAID discipline you could ever need. Their site has a customer wizard, just for you:&#xA;https://www.synology.com/en-us/support/nas_selector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8085" RevisionGUID="008b44b5-3a01-4816-a113-d9218401e78e" CreationDate="2017-09-14T19:26:54.273" UserId="1329" Text="You probably want to check the ChromeOS subreddit for [VictoryGoth's bi-weekly buying advice][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chromebooks $300 or Less&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook C740&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook C771 (Intel Celeron. COMING SOON w/ Touch &amp; Non-Touch models)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook 14&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook 15 CB5-571-C4G4&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2-in-1 Convertibles $350 or Less&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook R11&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Acer Chromebook R13&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Asus Chromebook Flip C100 OR the Asus Flip C101 (COMING SOON) if you can wait a few months&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Asus Chromebook Flip C213&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should consider m3/i3 processors or pentiums at worst and consider to spend more money, avoid eMMC and go with NVME/SATA if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is [GalliumOS][2] which you can install on many Chromebooks and runs a bit faster on such low powered hardware, a used Thinkpad or similar offereings from HP or Dell might get you more bang for the bucks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/6xi994/biweekly_chromebook_buying_advice_thread_sep_1_15/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://wiki.galliumos.org/Hardware_Compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25408" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="290" RevisionGUID="a45081e8-a6f6-4b13-9533-0f694f1282fc" CreationDate="2017-09-14T22:35:36.263" UserId="61" Comment="As per comment I have added a screen that works for the question (this is an old answer so it may be one of many)." Text="I have some potential options that may be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 1: Using an in-between hardware solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option would be **[Screens][1]** a product that resides between the screen itself and your inputs. It is in Kickstarter now but allows you to customize a good number of inputs by running its own internal **[software][2]**. Another option that is available now from my understanding is the **[Cadent][3]**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 2: Using software at the source to split the image**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be to use **[software][4]** on the host to do this for you, however I think this may not be an option based on the source of the content (camera or central DVR unit) you have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Option 3: The continued search for a screen with more than two hardware inputs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, most monitors/or TVs that allow multiple simultaneous input only allow two inputs and are in the expensive price range for example. For example I have the (as cheap as I could find 4k) **[Samsung LU28D590DS][5]**. It has two HDMI inputs that can be run at the same time. However as 4k becomes more mainstream there might be more options for simultaneous inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit1: @Aditya Somani found one with four inputs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2: @Nathan Osman Also found a [screen][6] that should work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note, a DVI cable can be converted to HDMI though a cheap adapter. Likewise a Displayport adapters exist however are slightly more dependent on the source of the signal or [require an active signal processer][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://skreens.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://skreens.com/#skreensos&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://saltlabs.net/cadent&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://lifehacker.com/5519833/five-best-tools-for-managing-your-multi-monitor-setup&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LU28D590DS/ZA&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&amp;cs=04&amp;l=en&amp;sku=210-AHSQ&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://tommynation.com/displayport-dvi-adapters-explained/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25412" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="5c257d15-3b34-4f15-bae3-adef7411d0dc" CreationDate="2017-09-15T02:39:21.860" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25424" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="43e9cb57-e7ec-451d-8f18-33e3df2d009a" CreationDate="2017-09-15T10:40:07.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8091" RevisionGUID="08b7d1b7-1b0f-43eb-9ec8-2f27be795972" CreationDate="2017-09-15T12:51:10.803" UserId="6223" Text="I'd say a laptop is the best choice. Here's why:&#xA;&#xA; - A laptop can be used to develop on several platforms&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - A *Chromebook* has been made specifically to surf the web, hence a laptop can be expected to give a better experience.&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Laptops have good storage space options, processors and RAM. And as Chromebooks have been made for the *internet men*, in mind, it doesn't have such great options.&#xA;Even if a Chromebook does have a lot of storage options and RAM, you won't be fully able to utilize it. A laptop on the other hand, will allow you not only to develop but also to virtualize other operating systems.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Some recommendations:&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - HP 15-AY511TX&#xA; - Lenovo IP-302E&#xA; - Acer E5-575" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25426" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8091" RevisionGUID="fbb32406-bd20-4dbf-911e-95259dd9348d" CreationDate="2017-09-15T12:57:15.690" UserId="6223" Comment="added 350 characters in body" Text="I'd say a laptop is the best choice. Here's why:&#xA;&#xA; - A laptop can be used to develop on several platforms&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - A *Chromebook* has been made specifically to surf the web, hence a laptop can be expected to give a better experience.&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Laptops have good storage space options, processors and RAM. And as Chromebooks have been made for the *internet men*, in mind, it doesn't have such great options.&#xA;Even if a Chromebook does have a lot of storage options and RAM, you won't be fully able to utilize it. A laptop on the other hand, will allow you not only to develop but also to virtualize other operating systems.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Some recommendations: [Amazon.com under €400 recommendations][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_two_brow_5?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Ck%3ALaptops%2Cp_36%3A-40000%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A13580790011%7C13580791011%7C7817224011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A5446812011%7C7817230011%7C562241011&amp;keywords=Laptops&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505480154&amp;rnid=562234011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8091" RevisionGUID="21c1e14f-a9d1-4d0e-988d-1bac67339776" CreationDate="2017-09-15T13:07:10.107" UserId="6223" Comment="edited body; added 107 characters in body" Text="I'd say a laptop is the best choice. Here's why:&#xA;&#xA; - A laptop can be used to develop on several platforms&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - A *Chromebook* has been made specifically to surf the web, hence a laptop can be expected to give a better experience.&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Laptops have good storage space options, processors and RAM. And as Chromebooks have been made for the *internet men*, in mind, it doesn't have such great options.&#xA;Even if a Chromebook does have a lot of storage options and RAM, you won't be fully able to utilize it. A laptop on the other hand, will allow you not only to develop but also to virtualize other operating systems.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Some recommendations: [Amazon.com under €400 recommendations][1]&#xA;[Techradar Linux Recommendations][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_availability_1?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Ck%3ALaptops%2Cp_36%3A-47800%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A13580790011%7C13580791011%7C7817224011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A5446812011%7C7817230011%7C562241011%2Cp_n_availability%3A1248801011&amp;keywords=Laptops&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505480615&#xA;  [2]: http://www.techradar.com/news/the-5-best-linux-laptops-of-2017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25431" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="93eb8e78-a998-47e4-84b6-1f0964c6a62d" CreationDate="2017-09-15T14:05:26.287" UserId="6932" Comment="62" />
  <row Id="25433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8093" RevisionGUID="a5001667-5fa2-4778-88a2-a2bee1bc54c0" CreationDate="2017-09-15T15:24:56.783" UserId="6491" Text="I had the opportunity to acquire a second hand ASRock Z170 EXTREME 7+ mainboard at a good price and plan to assemble a tower to perform data recovery jobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a high-end board, whith 10 SATA III ports, 3 SATA Express, 4 PCIe-3.0 x16 slots, USB 3.1 A+C ports, M.2, a.s.o.&#xD;&#xA;Specifications are here: [http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As working with hard drives that are possibly hardware defective, the quality of the power supply unit is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 or **3** dual drives hot swap bays, each accepting one 3.5'' and&#xD;&#xA;   one 2.5'' hard drive, but having a unique SATA power socket&#xD;&#xA; - **1** CD/DVD bay&#xD;&#xA; - **1** floppy bay&#xD;&#xA; - 1 to **3** SATA hard drives with miscellaneous operating systems, directly connected to the motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the SATA power cables for permanently connected devices should be 8, although most of the time 3 to 5 should be in use. For the most busy days, I would like however the PSU to support more than 5 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The remaining SATA ports will be used to connect other hard drives, when all SATA bays are full or for diagnostic purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably 2 or 3 PCIe expansion cards will be in use (things like the PC-3000, MRT, ...) and possibly a graphic card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've not chosen the processor yet, but it will be an Intel i5 or i7 of 6th or 7th generation. The RAM was not chosen yet, but will be dual channel DDR4, probably 8 GB or 16 GB, as huge quantity of RAM is not necessary in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming performance is not required and graphic needs should be moderate, mainly for post-processing of recovered pictures through thumbnails view.&#xD;&#xA;So, what is required is a solid &quot;technician desktop&quot; with many hardware extensions, but moderate processing needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The stability of the whole is essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the cables to be long enough to reach the SATA bays easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, how many Watts should the PSU support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which brands / families / models would you recommend, taking into acount &quot;old&quot; series, as I prefer a second hand high-end model to a medium range new model?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To the precence of which kind of power connectors (other than SATA ones) should I pay attention as well?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Alghough I'm used to upgrading hardware, this is my first attempt for a self-made tower. Thank you for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8093" RevisionGUID="a5001667-5fa2-4778-88a2-a2bee1bc54c0" CreationDate="2017-09-15T15:24:56.783" UserId="6491" Text="Which PSU for an ASRock Z170 EXTREME 7+ motherboard with many hard drives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8093" RevisionGUID="a5001667-5fa2-4778-88a2-a2bee1bc54c0" CreationDate="2017-09-15T15:24:56.783" UserId="6491" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25436" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="4a3c1ff8-9ef1-44f1-919d-7414244127a3" CreationDate="2017-09-15T16:41:19.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8097" RevisionGUID="c0cc545e-20c8-4142-b147-b0c0f9dd9fb9" CreationDate="2017-09-16T19:26:59.553" UserId="6992" Text="I was owning Dell 24 inches monitor, which worked for me perfectly for 5 years. Recently I bought new one, exactly the same model. I launched it and my eyes were hurting after only half hour of work (I am working a lot with text, when I watch Youtube or playing games I do not have that issue). I was schocked a bit so I placed those 2 next to each other and... as if it were 2 different monitors (I did tried to calibrate, but it appears that displays are from 2 different leagues). I have discovered that I have exactly the same problem with most of the modern displays that costs ~300-500$. I can only work for half-hour on those. Suprisingly I can work on 27 inch iMac 12 hours straight without single sing of eyes hurt, the same goes with surface 4 pro. Do You know any PC monitor that would behave the same as iMac or Surface Pro ? I am not interested in having 4k or 5k resolution, I am interested in working comfort. Another question - do You know what are so special about those displays (iMac, Macbook display, Surface 4 Pro) ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25455" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8097" RevisionGUID="c0cc545e-20c8-4142-b147-b0c0f9dd9fb9" CreationDate="2017-09-16T19:26:59.553" UserId="6992" Text="PC monitor for gentle eyes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25456" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8097" RevisionGUID="c0cc545e-20c8-4142-b147-b0c0f9dd9fb9" CreationDate="2017-09-16T19:26:59.553" UserId="6992" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="17aed806-8080-4174-9753-1db83dbc5940" CreationDate="2017-09-17T01:59:18.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8100" RevisionGUID="cb893bb9-9dcb-4759-87f2-118d5c2c6a99" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:38:02.360" UserId="6554" Text="I have an almost 8 year old PC with LGA 775 socket, I want to somehow upgrade it and use as a web development machine, I need to run Photoshop, adobe illustrator, visual studio and android studio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;following are the screenshots taken using CPU Z&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest upgrade of Processor, RAM and can I use SSD in this ?&#xD;&#xA;Also does graphics card helps in photoshop, android studio?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/roXW2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsSzf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MiA1s.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25465" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8100" RevisionGUID="cb893bb9-9dcb-4759-87f2-118d5c2c6a99" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:38:02.360" UserId="6554" Text="Upgrade for LGA775" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25466" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8100" RevisionGUID="cb893bb9-9dcb-4759-87f2-118d5c2c6a99" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:38:02.360" UserId="6554" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25467" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="d48a3d6e-1604-4f87-88f1-b4a626c2f5f2" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:39:03.153" UserId="80" Comment="62" />
  <row Id="25468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="4939bfc7-6d58-4e43-86e6-fa4534edede1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T17:09:14.663" UserId="6737" Text="I asked a question here &#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7857/i-need-a-really-good-computer-that-i-can-get-built-for-blender-3d-rendering-and/7859?noredirect=1#comment13322_7859 and I was told to create another question asking for a mainboard recommendation. So far the parts I have in my Amazon Cart is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CBH3R4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;th=1 but I don't know if I should also purchase the liquid cooler. Anyways though if there's a Mainboard recommendation that fits my required needs it'd be amazing to get some help, thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="4939bfc7-6d58-4e43-86e6-fa4534edede1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T17:09:14.663" UserId="6737" Text="Mainboard Recommendations For Built Computer Meant For Rendering (And Gaming)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="4939bfc7-6d58-4e43-86e6-fa4534edede1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T17:09:14.663" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8103" RevisionGUID="536348e8-110a-49d3-963d-6934c78b2682" CreationDate="2017-09-18T02:37:28.527" UserId="1329" Text="You could upgrade to a quad core processor and 4GB of RAM you intend to keep the motherboard. CPUs codenamed Yorkfield were the latest you could get for the 775 platform (they are about USD 40 on ebay), but make sure that you can fit a sufficient cooler in your case to cool the additional 2 cores and higher clock speed. I don't see a reason why you shouldn't be able run SATA SSDs with this machine, the only limitation appears to be the 2 RAM slots, 4 would be better I think.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the product page for the board: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-G31M-S2L-rev-10#sp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25476" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="9ddc829a-439e-420f-a572-7614d8925266" CreationDate="2017-09-18T07:07:47.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8104" RevisionGUID="2c2ba873-8c16-4197-b165-cf83aafaa1d0" CreationDate="2017-09-18T10:06:32.307" UserId="273" Text="The CPU cooler that is available for bundling on amazon is the Corsair H115i, which is a water cooler with 2x 140mm fans (for cooling the hot water coming from the CPU). This is the most powerful of Corsair liquid coolers and would have been my recommendation indeed. However one needs to see first whether such a 280mm radiator fits in the case first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, there are exactly 6 Threadripper-compatible mainboards on the market, of which the following 3 are avaible on Amazon.com:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The [MSI X399 Gaming Pro Carbon AC][1] (at 350 USD)&#xD;&#xA; - The [ASUS Prime X399-A][2] (at 350 USD)&#xD;&#xA; - The [GIGABYTE X399 AORUS Gaming 7][3] (at 390 USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of which satisfy the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - They have 8 RAM slots for a total maximum of 128GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - They have at least 2 full-speed PCIe 3.0 x16 slots&#xD;&#xA; - They have at least 2 M.2 slots with a PCIe 3.0 x4 connection&#xD;&#xA; - They have at least 2 USB 3.1 Gen2 ports&#xD;&#xA; - They have at least 6 SATA-3 ports&#xD;&#xA; - They have at least 4 Fan headers (the PSU will likely have some as well)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Form-factor wise the ASUS is EATX and the other two are standard ATX sized. Connectivity-wise all but the Gigabyte one have Intel GBit Ethernet (the Gigabyte one has a RivetNetworks controler) and all but the ASUS one have WiFi capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So given they all satisfy all relevant constraints I could think of, I think the **MSI X399 Gaming Pro Carbon AC**, despite its ridiculous name, is the best pick out of the three because it has the most standard form-factor and sits at the cheapest price-point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DHQR9N&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HC93RX/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746CT3Y5/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25480" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8103" RevisionGUID="d0ec1a47-bd52-42de-8ba8-dc7b90645f5f" CreationDate="2017-09-18T12:01:22.257" UserId="1329" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="You could upgrade to a quad core processor and 4GB of RAM if you intend to keep the motherboard. CPUs codenamed Yorkfield were the latest you could get for the 775 platform (they are about USD 40 on ebay), but make sure that you can fit a sufficient cooler in your case to cool the additional 2 cores and higher clock speed. I don't see a reason why you shouldn't be able run SATA SSDs with this machine, the only limitation appears to be the 2 RAM slots, 4 would be better I think.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the product page for the board: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-G31M-S2L-rev-10#sp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25481" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="85fc7833-418c-4e50-b4ed-98843bbaf432" CreationDate="2017-09-18T12:24:11.667" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25484" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="a4a2262f-b076-469c-b023-6471bf6d4898" CreationDate="2017-09-18T13:26:07.767" UserId="273" Comment="inlined the links, added the requirements established in the other thread (I'm the answerer from there), prettified the intro" Text="I asked [a question here][1] and I was told to create another question asking for a mainboard recommendation. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So far the parts I have in my Amazon Cart are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The Ryzen 7 1950X (16-core, &quot;Threadripper&quot;)][2] (I don't know wether I should also purchase the liquid cooler)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways though if there's a Mainboard recommendation that fits my required needs it'd be amazing to get some help, thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements established in the other Q&amp;A:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature _one_ sTR4 (the threadripper-) socket&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2x PCIe 3.0 x16 is required&#xD;&#xA; - Support for at least 2 SATA-3 drives and an PCIe NVMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Support for at least 4 RAM sticks and at least 32GB total&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be 300 USD or less on amazon.com&#xD;&#xA; - The mainboard should also not feature known spacing issues with 3rd-party coolers (don't need to research hard on that one)&#xD;&#xA; - As the case isn't picked (yet) any standard desktop format is acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is preferable to make good use of the budget and get a durable mainboard over the cheapest possible fitting the requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CBH3R4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25485" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="a4a2262f-b076-469c-b023-6471bf6d4898" CreationDate="2017-09-18T13:26:07.767" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by -1 edit id of 633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="d76a1468-c5fb-4d4e-9898-3dc9c44e5ab7" CreationDate="2017-09-18T13:26:07.767" UserId="60" Comment="inlined the links, added the requirements established in the other thread (I'm the answerer from there), prettified the intro" Text="I asked [a question here][1] and I was told to create another question asking for a mainboard recommendation. &lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So far the parts I have in my Amazon Cart are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [The Ryzen Threadripper 1950X][2] (I don't know wether I should also purchase the liquid cooler)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways though if there's a Mainboard recommendation that fits my required needs it'd be amazing to get some help, thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must feature _one_ sTR4 (the threadripper-) socket&#xD;&#xA; - Support for 2x PCIe 3.0 x16 is required&#xD;&#xA; - Support for at least 2 SATA-3 drives and an PCIe NVMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Support for at least 4 RAM sticks and at least 32GB total&#xD;&#xA; - Price should be 300 USD or less on amazon.com&#xD;&#xA; - The mainboard should also not feature known spacing issues with 3rd-party coolers (don't need to research hard on that one)&#xD;&#xA; - As the case isn't picked (yet) any standard desktop format is acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is preferable to make good use of the budget and get a durable mainboard over the cheapest possible fitting the requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CBH3R4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25487" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8101" RevisionGUID="d76a1468-c5fb-4d4e-9898-3dc9c44e5ab7" CreationDate="2017-09-18T13:26:07.767" UserId="60" Comment="inlined the links, added the requirements established in the other thread (I'm the answerer from there), prettified the intro" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25493" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8106" RevisionGUID="de94cc2a-4b98-4f15-859e-9bd4dba6b984" CreationDate="2017-09-18T19:50:57.540" UserId="241" Text="I recommend getting a secondhand Core 2 Quad Q9650 or Core 2 Quad X9650 (for your purposes, they're all the same CPU, just with different branding).  This will give you almost double the single-threaded performance, and four times the multi-threaded performance.  You can find them on Ebay for $20-$60.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll also want to upgrade your RAM to 4 GB ($60 or so), install a 64-bit version of Windows so you can use all of it, and install a SSD.  Your board is compatible with SATA SSDs, though since the connectors are SATA II rather than SATA III, you won't get the best possible performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8108" RevisionGUID="fb196c21-4c74-43dc-a165-88c4df27b28e" CreationDate="2017-09-18T20:34:59.203" UserId="6188" Text="You can install the modified s771 CPU.   &#xD;&#xA;Modified xeons is much cheaper with the same performance.  &#xD;&#xA;[![xeon s775][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;Even if you have the SATA 2 in you system you can use ssd for the swap and it will be as a RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av7PW.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25504" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="06a4724b-578d-4a05-bb0a-e44343f31bf2" CreationDate="2017-09-19T09:26:41.953" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8115" RevisionGUID="8ad74a65-41f5-4e44-a60d-7a261fb4e393" CreationDate="2017-09-19T16:19:50.413" UserId="7005" Text="In September 2017, the pickings are still slim for high-wattage multi-C-port USB chargers.  Google provides a low-wattage two-C-port charger here :&#xD;&#xA;https://store.google.com/us/product/usb_c_dual_port_charger?hl=en-US&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most phones which will charge happily with A-to-C cables from traditional high-wattage multi-A-port chargers.  I suspect consumers will try and plug multiple 87W MacBook Pros into their 100W chargers, and blame the charger for not keeping up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="abab205a-5efb-4214-98b9-48750c58be4c" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:09:12.317" UserId="7007" Text="*(Copied from superuser)*  &#xD;&#xA;With SSDs getting cheaper and more mature, I am thinking of getting some for off-site backups. I would store system images and media backups on it, updated weekly-monthly. The drives would be rarely moved (although some shock tolerance would be welcome), stored at ~20C and powered on only to update the backups (so weekly/monthly). Considering all this, would I be better off with an external SSD or HDD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(SSDs - consumer grade, MLC/3D, HDDs - consumer/enterprise grade (not much of a diff anyway), both in under 1TB varieties)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25527" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="abab205a-5efb-4214-98b9-48750c58be4c" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:09:12.317" UserId="7007" Text="HDD vs SSD for semi-frequent backups" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25528" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="abab205a-5efb-4214-98b9-48750c58be4c" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:09:12.317" UserId="7007" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="d9a48be5-f492-4383-b89d-6ca9da24fea9" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:38:04.100" UserId="7006" Text="I'm looking for a smart phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- unlockable bootloader, excluding the method described as 'bad' below.&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with LineageOS or Replicant (modem works, wifi works, camera works, etc)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch with at least five pointers&#xD;&#xA;- use SIM card&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Cricket Wireless (AT&amp;T's network)&#xD;&#xA;- for use in USA&#xD;&#xA;- $0-$200, hard limit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###What *legally/easily unlockable bootloader* means...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to put your own OS (that you built) on a smart phone, you need to have an unlocked bootloader.  There are different ways to get there.  I think some of those methods are good and some are bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **BAD** Download some kind of executable from a forum and run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;- **OKAY** Download the source code for a program, inspect it and build it yourself, then run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;- **GOOD** The manufacturer offers a free (gratis) service for power users that allows them to unlock the bootloader in their device.  Registration is required.  Note: LG for example has this service, but *only for some models of their devices*.&#xD;&#xA;- **BETTER** The manufacturer offers a program that can unlock your device.  Registration isn't required.  *I think this is how it works for some devices, but I'm not sure.*&#xD;&#xA;- **BEST** The device ships with an unlocked bootloader or unlocking can be performed with off-the-shelf software such as the `Android SDK`. *I heard this is how it works for some devices, but I don't know which ones.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;Note, this question is similar to this other [question from 2016](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/7006).  It's a great question with great answers, but there are new devices now..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25530" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="d9a48be5-f492-4383-b89d-6ca9da24fea9" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:38:04.100" UserId="7006" Text="A smartphone with an unlockable bootloader (Sept 2017 edition)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25531" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="d9a48be5-f492-4383-b89d-6ca9da24fea9" CreationDate="2017-09-19T20:38:04.100" UserId="7006" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25537" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="42f65895-e54e-4cba-b562-241c752d91d5" CreationDate="2017-09-20T10:23:46.357" UserId="7007" Comment="edited body" Text="*(Copied from superuser)*  &#xD;&#xA;With SSDs getting cheaper and more mature, I am thinking of getting some for off-site backups. I would store system images and media backups on it, updated weekly-monthly. The drives would be rarely moved (although some shock tolerance would be welcome), stored at ~20C and powered on only to update the backups (so weekly/monthly). Considering all this, would I be better off with an external SSD or HDD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(SSDs - consumer grade, SLC/3D, HDDs - consumer/enterprise grade (not much of a diff anyway), both in under 1TB varieties)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="dfcdb5cb-5bc5-4a21-91a1-cf58841cf488" CreationDate="2017-09-20T11:35:02.057" UserId="7007" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="*(Copied from superuser)*  &#xD;&#xA;With SSDs getting cheaper and more mature, I am thinking of getting some for off-site backups. I would store system images and media backups on it, updated weekly-monthly. The drives would be rarely moved (although some shock tolerance would be welcome), stored at ~20C and powered on only to update the backups (so weekly/monthly). Considering all this, would I be better off with an external SSD or HDD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(SSDs - consumer grade, Samsung T5, HDDs - consumer/enterprise grade (not much of a diff anyway) WD, both in under 1TB varieties)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25539" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="afa723e6-409b-462a-959a-599782b4398d" CreationDate="2017-09-20T12:41:58.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25540" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8116" RevisionGUID="83446eb8-db8f-4c2b-9343-72781b46e60b" CreationDate="2017-09-20T14:00:20.213" UserId="7007" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="*(Copied from superuser)*  &#xD;&#xA;With SSDs getting cheaper and more mature, I am thinking of getting some for off-site backups. I would store system images and media backups on it, updated weekly-monthly. The drives would be rarely moved (although some shock tolerance would be welcome), stored at ~20C and powered on only to update the backups (so weekly/monthly). Considering all this, would I be better off with an external SSD or HDD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(SSDs - consumer grade MLC/TLC, Samsung T5, HDDs - consumer/enterprise grade (not much of a diff anyway) WD, both in under 1TB varieties)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8122" RevisionGUID="a773478d-18b3-4cc5-9f2c-3ace8e80fecf" CreationDate="2017-09-20T20:18:27.020" UserId="241" Text="Assuming price is not a concern, neither one has much of an advantage over the other for your purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A powered-down laptop hard drive is reasonably shock-resistant: the 500g rating is roughly equivalent to falling off a table onto a concrete floor.&#xD;&#xA;* A SSD has a much higher random-access speed than a hard drive, but backup and restore are mostly sequential-access operations, where SSDs don't have anywhere near as much of an edge.&#xD;&#xA;* Hard drives have better long-term powered-off behavior.  A hard drive pulled out of storage will either power up properly, providing access to all its data, or not power up properly, requiring work by a data-recovery company to provide access to all the data.  A powered-off SSD will gradually lose data in an unrecoverable fashion after a few years.  This is mostly not an issue for you, since you plan to store the drives at low temperature (which reduces the data loss rate), and you plan to power them up periodically to update the contents.&#xD;&#xA;* SSDs handle being turned off and on much better than hard drives do, but again, this is mostly not an issue: being power-cycled 50 times a year is well below the limits for a hard drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantage hard drives have is still price: a 1TB external hard drive is about $60, while a similar-sized SSD is around $300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whichever way you choose to go, make sure your backup plan can handle the failure of one of your external drives.  There's no point in having a backup if the backup itself is a weak point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25557" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="98478e5c-69ea-47cd-818e-718e8947dfae" CreationDate="2017-09-21T22:57:04.293" UserId="7006" Comment="63" />
  <row Id="25558" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="4e1ad6ab-41f9-431d-83b2-56a2bfb267e0" CreationDate="2017-09-22T00:10:15.540" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8124" RevisionGUID="3cf49265-7f99-4e93-8a51-f88e0cff6226" CreationDate="2017-09-22T11:09:32.593" UserId="7024" Text="I am looking for a LED light and a wall switch that are both connected to each other via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the switch to be able to toggle the light on/off, but I don't want the switch physically wired to the light. The light would be wired directly to the power and be always on. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I want a &quot;pull chain&quot; light bulb, that the &quot;pull chain&quot; is a Bluetooth signal that can be sent from a Bluetooth switch or an app. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plus if the products are HomeKit or Nest Weave products. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25561" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8124" RevisionGUID="3cf49265-7f99-4e93-8a51-f88e0cff6226" CreationDate="2017-09-22T11:09:32.593" UserId="7024" Text="LED Lighting Automation + Bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25562" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8124" RevisionGUID="3cf49265-7f99-4e93-8a51-f88e0cff6226" CreationDate="2017-09-22T11:09:32.593" UserId="7024" Text="&lt;automation&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25564" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="09ca2e5e-76a0-4ff7-a8eb-d99b515cf96d" CreationDate="2017-09-22T16:35:34.083" UserId="7006" Comment="Added &quot;used is ok&quot;" Text="I'm looking for a smart phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- unlockable bootloader, excluding the method described as 'bad' below.&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with LineageOS or Replicant (modem works, wifi works, camera works, etc)&#xD;&#xA;- multi-touch with at least five pointers&#xD;&#xA;- use SIM card&#xD;&#xA;- compatible with Cricket Wireless (AT&amp;T's network)&#xD;&#xA;- for use in USA&#xD;&#xA;- &lt;s&gt;$0-$200, hard limit&lt;/s&gt; Any price?!  I want the cheapest one. :)&#xD;&#xA;- Used is OK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###What *legally/easily unlockable bootloader* means...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to put your own OS (that you built) on a smart phone, you need to have an unlocked bootloader.  There are different ways to get there.  I think some of those methods are good and some are bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **BAD** Download some kind of executable from a forum and run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;- **OKAY** Download the source code for a program, inspect it and build it yourself, then run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;- **GOOD** The manufacturer offers a free (gratis) service for power users that allows them to unlock the bootloader in their device.  Registration is required.  Note: LG for example has this service, but *only for some models of their devices*.&#xD;&#xA;- **BETTER** The manufacturer offers a program that can unlock your device.  Registration isn't required.  *I think this is how it works for some devices, but I'm not sure.*&#xD;&#xA;- **BEST** The device ships with an unlocked bootloader or unlocking can be performed with off-the-shelf software such as the `Android SDK`. *I heard this is how it works for some devices, but I don't know which ones.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;Note, this question is similar to this other [question from 2016](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/7006).  It's a great question with great answers, but there are new devices now..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="bab12030-3cb5-4172-893b-40781f63c637" CreationDate="2017-09-22T19:24:24.780" UserId="7026" Text="I’m looking for an affordable SAS/SATA PCIe controller card that I can use only PC.&#xA;&#xA;I have 4 x 3TB 3.5” SATA hard drives and want to be able to use them on the new  card.&#xA;&#xA;I have read a review of some cards and they say they only support up to 2TB disks. I’m trying to find out what I need to look for for the card to be able to handle big hard disk sizes. &#xA;&#xA;Any recommendations or advice while searching would be great. &#xA;&#xA;Thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25566" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="bab12030-3cb5-4172-893b-40781f63c637" CreationDate="2017-09-22T19:24:24.780" UserId="7026" Text="SAS/SATA PCIe Controller Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25567" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="bab12030-3cb5-4172-893b-40781f63c637" CreationDate="2017-09-22T19:24:24.780" UserId="7026" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25570" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8126" RevisionGUID="ff40e95a-9072-421d-a2ba-a8be5ca837ee" CreationDate="2017-09-22T21:10:02.230" UserId="7028" Text="So I've been looking for a cheap, quality solution to cool the VRM's on my XFX R9 270. Im trying to avoid bought heat-sinks for the fact that thermal pads can get pricey, and I'm weary of using thermal glue (for good reason, the card is coming up on 8 years old and still runs like a champ). I've been thinking of making some heat-sinks from thermally conductive aluminum tape (Ive tested the adhesive and it does not conduct electrical current at all) but I dont want to spend the time to make such if there is a solid, cheap alternative out there that I haven't seen or know about. Any recommendations or second opinions would be gladly appreciated ^.^ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. This is my first inquiry on SE so if what im asking is out of place or anything of the sort and such, I'll gladly ask in another forum ^.^ (Pretty sure I have the right place lol)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25571" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8126" RevisionGUID="ff40e95a-9072-421d-a2ba-a8be5ca837ee" CreationDate="2017-09-22T21:10:02.230" UserId="7028" Text="Vrm Heatsink recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25572" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8126" RevisionGUID="ff40e95a-9072-421d-a2ba-a8be5ca837ee" CreationDate="2017-09-22T21:10:02.230" UserId="7028" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8126" RevisionGUID="9c30ddb5-95e2-4c9f-a92c-c663eedc75aa" CreationDate="2017-09-23T01:26:44.150" UserId="7028" Comment="Added project budget details" Text="So I've been looking for a cheap, quality solution to cool the VRM's on my XFX R9 270. Im trying to avoid bought heat-sinks for the fact that thermal pads can get pricey, and I'm weary of using thermal glue (for good reason, the card is coming up on 8 years old and still runs like a champ). I've been thinking of making some heat-sinks from thermally conductive aluminum tape (Ive tested the adhesive and it does not conduct electrical current at all) but I dont want to spend the time to make such if there is a solid, cheap alternative out there that I haven't seen or know about. Any recommendations or second opinions would be gladly appreciated ^.^ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Budget would be $30 for the heat-sinks, I'd need 8 to cover all the VRM's. Thermal pads/glue I know can vary widely in price so I'm open to ideas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. This is my first inquiry on SE so if what im asking is out of place or anything of the sort and such, I'll gladly ask in another forum ^.^ (Pretty sure I have the right place lol)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8127" RevisionGUID="8b3538f7-aad0-461b-b007-4893cb895853" CreationDate="2017-09-23T15:03:27.047" UserId="6491" Text="As a computer technician, I have about 500 IT equipements to manage (hard drives, computers, displays, printers, a.s.o.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a passive RFID equipment in order to know for each equipment in which location it is stored (office, whareouse, transit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advise for beacons (detectors), RFID tags (stickers), and software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Technical constraints:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The warehouse is underground and doesn't have any Internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;The only electrical outlet is outside the deposit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Characteristics of the desired system:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **battery powered** RFID beacons that I can mount of the door posts (width 70 cm to 1 meter) and coming with a power button that I can toggle when coming at or leaving the warehouse.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - **capable to automatically update a portable device** in my pocket to tell if the object is in the warehouse, in transit, at the office, a.s.o.&#xD;&#xA;  Multiple objects can pass through the door at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;  Ideally the device would be a smarthone (Windows Phone or Android), so that I don't have to wear one more device. (If not possible, a Rapsberry PI running Linux or other device would be possible as well.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **standalone**, i.e. able to work totally offline (not requiring and Internet connection at any time)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - beacons preferably **not requiring WLAN** (WiFi) to communicate with the device, as I don't have Internet at the warehouse.&#xD;&#xA;  (I'm aware about battery powered WLAN routers but would prefer the beacons communicating directly with the device through Bluetooth or else.)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA; - **connectable to at least one computer** about once a day to update an existing MySQL database.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **using open standards for data storage** and not a proprietary &quot;closed&quot; system. Preferably using sqlite database format, or able to automatically generate SQL requests to update the database.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **able to support stock growth** for future years (i.e. not limited to 500 items)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if the software is able to support **further storage hierarchy**, so that I could mount RFID detectors on racks it would be nice, but this is not mandatory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if this is possible, able to reattribute used RFID sticker to a new object (once remaining quantity reached 0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware and softwares do not need to be bundled.&#xD;&#xA;Free softwares and commercial ones are both welcome as long as they are good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much for your suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8127" RevisionGUID="8b3538f7-aad0-461b-b007-4893cb895853" CreationDate="2017-09-23T15:03:27.047" UserId="6491" Text="Recommandations for small warehouse RFID management with detectors including batteries" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8127" RevisionGUID="8b3538f7-aad0-461b-b007-4893cb895853" CreationDate="2017-09-23T15:03:27.047" UserId="6491" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25578" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8007" RevisionGUID="36c5ef7a-78f9-4c28-9526-d6859826977b" CreationDate="2017-09-23T16:06:29.400" UserId="6894" Comment="edited title" Text="Paid Laundry Coin-Free" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25579" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="366" RevisionGUID="48d7cb41-a3f3-4832-befd-4053f14ffa1a" CreationDate="2017-09-23T16:39:09.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25580" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="8ec259ea-5648-482f-8f60-599612b71053" CreationDate="2017-09-23T20:39:15.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25581" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="6649e0c9-96b7-4eeb-9d04-f70b9a659be1" CreationDate="2017-09-23T21:39:25.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25582" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="b43dfb1c-d0c6-42bd-934d-e8090372fb7b" CreationDate="2017-09-23T23:50:07.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25584" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="4bddc08b-8a83-4c66-b0b9-77152dd6a063" CreationDate="2017-09-24T04:53:43.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8128" RevisionGUID="39654d30-0d1b-40fb-bde7-e90265f05287" CreationDate="2017-09-24T05:15:35.730" UserId="7033" Text="**Xiaomi Redmi Note 4** (150$ with free shipping to the USA) and other Xiaomi devices. Note that some other Xiaomi devices are not supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good, but needs executable from vendor for Windows (bad). I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported. This is a recent device, most devices with LinageOS are older.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wileyfox Swift** or the AFAIK worse Wileyfox Storm, but not newer devices (i.e. not Swift 2 or similar) from Wileyfox as they stopped their upstream support for LinageOS. Unlocking rated best with `fastboot oem unlock`. It has an SD card slot, supports 10 touch points, 2 SIM card slots. They are not manufactured any more so you can only buy them from resellers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Huawei Honor 5X** and other Huawei devices. Note that newer Huawei devices are not yet supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good with secret used with `fastboot oem unlock SecretHere`. I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably more devices which fit your requirements, especially when buying older ones. Some phones can not be found on e.g. Amazon, but are much easier to come by from AliExpress. [LinageOS has a list with devices that they officially support.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of your requirement for an SD card slot the following ones do not qualify which otherwise would: Google branded phones which are unlocking rated best, but which also cost much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25586" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="45f432d2-3a9c-4301-94ee-757be831e7d8" CreationDate="2017-09-24T06:54:22.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25588" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="55adf504-5a09-4978-9cc4-af6f5d5fb9c6" CreationDate="2017-09-24T16:55:34.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="2603a99f-d031-48b8-822a-0fd398738c1c" CreationDate="2017-09-24T21:58:18.933" UserId="6737" Text="I was told to create another question, this time for the best GPU I can get for Blender 3D Rendering (Cycles) My total budget or this PC I want to get built (I pick out the parts) is $3,000. These are the first two questions I've asked:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7857/i-need-a-really-good-computer-that-i-can-get-built-for-blender-3d-rendering-and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8101/mainboard-recommendations-for-built-computer-meant-for-rendering-and-gaming/8104?noredirect=1#comment13405_8104&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a summary of what i have put plain and simple:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://imgur.com/a/0mBlM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But yeah I have a question there too which would be great if it was answered, thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25593" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="2603a99f-d031-48b8-822a-0fd398738c1c" CreationDate="2017-09-24T21:58:18.933" UserId="6737" Text="Best GPU for Blender 3D Rendering?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25594" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="2603a99f-d031-48b8-822a-0fd398738c1c" CreationDate="2017-09-24T21:58:18.933" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8131" RevisionGUID="a6e9a106-b41c-4838-8b0b-db052f373fc8" CreationDate="2017-09-24T22:50:47.457" UserId="273" Text="[EVGA graphics cards have possibly the best warranty policy][1]. This is why I will recommend you an EVGA card (the cards in this case all have the -KR suffix and thus limited 3 year warranty). Performance-wise there is little difference (single-digit per-cents) between the cards so the precise choice doesn't matter much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what do you actually want from a graphics card? Raw computation power (from Nvidia because Blender uses those cards better). Now there are two ways to provide this sort of power: Use 2 cheaper cards or use one beefy card. For gaming the case is clear on the second one. In this case it's close. Two GTX 1070s would provide roughl (up to a few per cent again) the same performance as one GTX 1080 Ti. However the 1080 Ti will draw less power overall, will perform better when gaming and will also provide you with 11GB of VRAM in total as opposed to 8GB (meaning more can be stored directly in the fast memory on the card). Also a single 1080Ti will likely be cheaper, leaving more room for other components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now that we know what you need, which model should you get? Amazon has 6 different EVGA 1080Ti cards. 1 &quot;founder's edition&quot;, 2 with water cooling, 3 with air cooling. The water cooled cards are &gt;$1100 and thus too expensive. I see the founder's edition card critically because it has only one fan and will probably be quite loud becaus of the high RPM required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves us with the following three air cooled cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [**EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING**][2] (at 800USD)&#xD;&#xA; - [EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 GAMING][3] (at 770USD)&#xD;&#xA; - [EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition GAMING][4] (at 770USD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the minimal pricing difference here, I would actually recommend the **FTW3** card, because it has 3 fans as opposed to 2, meaning it probably will be cooled better than the other two (meaning it can run faster for longer). It also features slightly higher clocks meaning it's also faster by default.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[On a technical note][5] for the other components, this cards needs 2x8-pin power connectors and claims to draw 280W. Size-wise it's at 11.8&quot; length and standard dual-slot size, which needs to be adjusted for when picking the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/graphics-cards/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y15DWXR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y13N2B6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y11DFZ3&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25596" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="78243c6c-25e0-4d83-a236-14c3778c3777" CreationDate="2017-09-25T01:11:40.963" UserId="7032" Text="My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2026       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |    5 GT/s     |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+-----------------+------------------------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2026.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)1&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2026)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25597" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="78243c6c-25e0-4d83-a236-14c3778c3777" CreationDate="2017-09-25T01:11:40.963" UserId="7032" Text="CPU and GPU for high-end terminal server balanced against low energy consumption, and low heat" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25598" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="78243c6c-25e0-4d83-a236-14c3778c3777" CreationDate="2017-09-25T01:11:40.963" UserId="7032" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;thin-client&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25599" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="bdda845a-fd61-41dc-a66f-b8ab8e11a1a6" CreationDate="2017-09-25T02:03:31.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25605" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="dd6783bc-8b10-46ae-af37-ab5bc1ec9525" CreationDate="2017-09-25T15:34:02.160" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25606" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8134" RevisionGUID="342c61a0-597a-43d9-9e12-d10034981a33" CreationDate="2017-09-25T17:00:20.530" UserId="7041" Text="Below is a video of a paper scanner, that scans paper that has print on both sides.  See the very beginning of the video.  However, I am unable to figure out how to scan both sides of the paper using the scanner buttons themselves.  Does anyone know if this is controlled by the hardware or the software?  If so, how can this be done?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9aPTMRChNw&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25607" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8134" RevisionGUID="342c61a0-597a-43d9-9e12-d10034981a33" CreationDate="2017-09-25T17:00:20.530" UserId="7041" Text="Two sided paper scans with Epson WorkForce ES-400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25608" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8134" RevisionGUID="342c61a0-597a-43d9-9e12-d10034981a33" CreationDate="2017-09-25T17:00:20.530" UserId="7041" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25609" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8128" RevisionGUID="e7d64282-ef23-4b89-b4df-e59771e63c09" CreationDate="2017-09-25T17:40:17.913" UserId="7033" Comment="clarify that it is only supported by LinageOS" Text="**Xiaomi Redmi Note 4** (150$ with free shipping to the USA) and other Xiaomi devices. Note that some other Xiaomi devices are not supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated (see question for meaning) good, but needs executable from vendor for Windows (bad). I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported. This is a recent device, as opposed to most devices supported by LinageOS which are older.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wileyfox Swift** or the AFAIK worse Wileyfox Storm, but not newer devices (i.e. not Swift 2 or similar) from Wileyfox as they stopped their upstream support for LinageOS. Unlocking rated best with `fastboot oem unlock`. It has an SD card slot, supports 10 touch points, 2 SIM card slots. They are not manufactured any more so you can only buy them from resellers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Huawei Honor 5X** and other Huawei devices. Note that newer Huawei devices are not yet supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good with secret used with `fastboot oem unlock SecretHere`. I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably more devices which fit your requirements, especially when buying older ones. Some phones can not be found on e.g. Amazon, but are much easier to come by from AliExpress. [LinageOS has a list with devices that they officially support.][1] The installation instructions from LinageOS explain in more detail what steps are needed to unlock each device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of your requirement for an SD card slot the following ones do not qualify which otherwise would: Google branded phones which are unlocking rated best, but which also cost much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25610" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="affbd500-e459-4a86-8a11-2dc83e3fdebf" CreationDate="2017-09-25T18:39:08.110" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8135" RevisionGUID="1f1fdbf6-d932-488d-b04a-3f6d22044375" CreationDate="2017-09-25T18:48:50.863" UserId="6089" Text="According to the [manual][1], page 54 and onwards, you can assign a custom configuration to the scan button. There is a caveat in the manual that says you cannot scan via wireless using the button, but that's not a factor in your question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        Assigning Start Button Settings or Scan Jobs&#xD;&#xA;    You can view or change the default scan settings when you scan using&#xD;&#xA;    the start button on your scanner.&#xD;&#xA;    You do this by accessing the scan jobs in the Document Capture Pro (Windows)&#xD;&#xA;    or Document Capture (OS X) program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The manual does not provide a screen shot of the page that would allow you to specify double sides, in the pp 54-55 region, but does show such a page elsewhere in the manual. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is typical for scanner software to allow custom configuration of various buttons on the device. Mediocre software often omits such features.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51578.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8136" RevisionGUID="e5812862-7fb1-4714-ab73-049687b0267a" CreationDate="2017-09-25T21:21:13.310" UserDisplayName="user7042" Text="So I'm building a budget PfSense Router and I would very much like to simply use a USB flash drive instead of a hard drive (to save money). There are plenty of SATA (Device side) -&gt; USB (PC Side) adapters, but are there any for USB (Device Side) -&gt; SATA (PC Side). If not, are there any SATA &quot;Flash drives&quot; that are essentially USB Flash Drives with sata connectors. I know of the Supermicro SATA DOMs but is there anything more affordable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25613" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8136" RevisionGUID="e5812862-7fb1-4714-ab73-049687b0267a" CreationDate="2017-09-25T21:21:13.310" UserDisplayName="user7042" Text="Adapter to use USB Flash drive as hard drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25614" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8136" RevisionGUID="e5812862-7fb1-4714-ab73-049687b0267a" CreationDate="2017-09-25T21:21:13.310" UserDisplayName="user7042" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="36c97f6c-7df5-48a4-8932-4ad4be59422e" CreationDate="2017-09-25T23:06:11.657" UserId="7032" Comment="text correction" Text="My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2026       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |    5 GT/s     |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+-----------------+------------------------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2026.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2026)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="42608a46-3104-410a-8b7a-f9ca5a5f7b06" CreationDate="2017-09-25T23:30:33.393" UserId="7032" Comment="Typo..." Text="My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |    5 GT/s     |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+-----------------+------------------------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="62e11bee-ce6e-4b41-9f9e-f03e21579f6f" CreationDate="2017-09-26T07:03:56.410" UserId="7044" Text="Is there such a thing as a fully managed mini 2-port network switch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to move printers to a dedicated and isolated VLAN, but most of the printers don't have built-in VLAN support, and they are located in places where multiple walljacks are available so it may not be always plugged into a static assigned wall VLAN port correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to set the printers up with a tiny managed switch that will send them to the proper VLAN, and otherwise it just won't work if any of the cabling is mixed up by staff doing summer cleaning. The switch should have a way to detect the printer's MAC and refuse a connection if that MAC can't be found." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="62e11bee-ce6e-4b41-9f9e-f03e21579f6f" CreationDate="2017-09-26T07:03:56.410" UserId="7044" Text="IT Networking: Tiny managed 2-port network switch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25620" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="62e11bee-ce6e-4b41-9f9e-f03e21579f6f" CreationDate="2017-09-26T07:03:56.410" UserId="7044" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8138" RevisionGUID="beb3de71-a8f3-404b-a170-2e05c59b1b2f" CreationDate="2017-09-26T11:32:23.573" UserDisplayName="user7042" Text="I haven't heard of size limitations on a SATA card, but [this](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124064&amp;cm_re=sata_card-_-16-124-064-_-Product) is a pretty affordable ($30) card with 4 ports. You might have been looking at hardware RAID cards which arent needed unless you really want to do RAID 5 or 6. (These might have size limits) If you really need a RAID card look at [this](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3913US3588)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25622" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8139" RevisionGUID="4164ca47-b497-495d-b98d-e773fc8a478d" CreationDate="2017-09-26T12:18:36.500" UserId="6491" Text="I ended up acquiring an almost new Corsair AX760i PSU which was sold ~115 USD, which is almost half its new price. It 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully-Modular PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I learned it that there are several class of energy conversion efficiency certifications. The 80 PLUS certification ensures that the energy conversion efficiency is at least 80%. Above 80% are further &quot;80 Plus ...&quot; certifications : Bronze (82%), Silver (85%), Gold (85%), Platinium (90%), Titanium (92%).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some constructors have an online calculator to estimate the power consumption of the computer. Even with the several drives and expansion cards mentioned in my original post, the estimated consumption was around 360W. A very high supported wattage is useless for most users, at least for office users. However, high wattage PSUs usually have more cables. For instance, my 760 W power supply unit comes with 3 SATA cables, each with 4 SATA connectors, 4 PCI-e cables, and several other cables. It will be perfect for my motherboard which has 3 PCI-E sockets and as I can power 3 hard drives with independant cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In comparison, the 1200 Watts AX1200i comes with 4 SATA cables and 6 PCI-E cables. I believe that some of the high wattage units are also designed to adapt with some high end motherboards of the future, which will probably have more PCI-E sockets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The are three kind of power supply units:&#xD;&#xA;- non modular&#xD;&#xA;- semi modular&#xD;&#xA;- fully modular&#xD;&#xA;The difference if is the cables are permanently attached to the PSU or if you can attach or remove them. A fully modular PSU allows to attach/detach all cables, whilst a semi-modular one has the main cables attached permanently and others than you can add/remove depending on your needs.&#xD;&#xA;The more modular the PSU, the more comfort, but also the higher the price.&#xD;&#xA;If you don't plan changes to your hardware, a non modular or semi modular PSU will suffice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing to mention is tha high end PSUs seem coming with more advanced voltage regulation.&#xD;&#xA;For instance, according to the manual, the AXi serie from Corsair uses a Digital Signal Processor (DSP) which improves overall system stability and component reliability. They also have better fan control, as the fan is activated only when necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I read, some manufacturers, like Seasonic produce supply units which are then commercialized by miscellaneous brands, like Corsair." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25624" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8134" RevisionGUID="8d6aab58-29b4-4238-b667-44373125fc4a" CreationDate="2017-09-26T14:22:57.447" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:273,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;SEJPM&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25625" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="82146d22-4cc7-447d-a38c-93aa7ed8cf3c" CreationDate="2017-09-26T15:03:44.157" UserId="7006" Comment="63" />
  <row Id="25636" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="eb2242e5-93bf-4b3c-86e0-5191c4a90a8f" CreationDate="2017-09-26T23:26:42.330" UserId="7032" Comment="Added benchmark comparison." Text="My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="710bc73c-159d-429e-b78e-70592eeb54e8" CreationDate="2017-09-27T00:17:59.793" UserId="7032" Comment="added 3657 characters in body" Text="**UPDATE 1, 2 at end**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 1&#xD;&#xA;I have added a row at the end of the CPU comparison table above with the &quot;CPU Mark&quot; results from the &quot;cpubenchmark&quot; website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **servethehome.com/intel-xeon-e3-1240-v6-linux-benchmarks-review-first-kaby-lake-xeon-e3-cpu/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Selection #4* is for the moment abandoned for two reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. given my experience, and that it is &quot;new technology&quot;, it may be prudent to wait until the market has saturated,&#xD;&#xA;2. it may be too powerful for my requirements; outbalancing the power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, I am leaning towards selection #2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading some Xeon E3 reviews; the Xeon E3-1260Lv5 seems to provide a good trade-off between computation power and power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a most on-topic discussion worth quoting at length&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.lime-technology.com/topic/52418-motherboardcpu-initial-unraid-server/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... [I] want to start a NAS that allows me to re-use my bunch of 3 TB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drives (5) and offers great flexibility. This could be cheap and old&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HW reuse, but I do want to put some load on the server as well...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Plex with 2-4 simultaneous Transcoding up to 1080p, no 4K in the foreseeable future of 3 years...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Some docker containers such as Plex, or some research VMs (No Gaming) for Linux/Win&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support for 10-14 Drives including parity, cache and SSDs (Docker, VM)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Headless would be nice as the box would not be at the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - less power consumption over high performance and high idle consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - system might idle 50-70% of the 24h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... CPU Passmarks [cpubenchmark] are your friend.  The rule of thumb&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is 2,000 Passmarks per simultaneous 1080p stream in Plex when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; transcoding is required.  Do you need transcoding?  If so, and leaving&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some CPU for unRAID and Dockers, you'll need a 9,000 - 10,000 Passmark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU which is fairly high end - Core i7 or Xeon territory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... E3 is a nice compromise of horsepower and lower power usage if you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; don't really need all the cores and PCIex lanes of an E5, but you can&#xD;&#xA;&gt; build a great server box with an E5 if you want to go that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I think they both deliver as promised.  Note that the E3-1260L v5 is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for low power operation (TDP 45w), so it's inherently more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; efficient than it's higher powered &quot;cousin&quot;.  But most significantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; vis-à-vis their relative PassMark calculations -- the PassMark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; benchmark is by nature CPU intensive ... and this is exactly when the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel CPU's will bump up the clock to their &quot;turbo&quot; frequencies to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; gain maximum &quot;horsepower&quot;.  Note that although the 1260L's base&#xD;&#xA;&gt; frequency is only 2.9GHz (compared to a base frequency of 3.6GHz for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 1275);  the Turbo frequency is 3.9GHz ... nearly equal to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4.0GHz turbo frequency for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the PassMark performance test is run, clearly either CPU will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ramp up to Turbo speed -- thus the very close performance figures. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; And the 1260L will do it more efficiently ... consuming a max of 45w&#xD;&#xA;&gt; compared to 80w for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  Very similar performance (9629 vs 10067 PassMark ... favor of the 1260L)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L much more power efficient (45w TDP vs 80w)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L has a slightly higher turbo speed for single core; slightly lower when all cores are in turbo mode .. probably a wash&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  As you've noted the 1230 is less expensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Personally, I'd go for the 1260L, just for the better efficiency. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; It'll run cooler; can ramp up to the same performance level while&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drawing just over half the power; and in the great scheme of things a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 50€ difference is really irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="34a2fda9-7cbc-4c26-baaa-82403f5b1d99" CreationDate="2017-09-27T00:23:24.233" UserId="7032" Comment="added 3657 characters in body" Text="**UPDATE 1, 2 at end**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 1&#xD;&#xA;I have added a row at the end of the CPU comparison table above with the &quot;CPU Mark&quot; results from the &quot;cpubenchmark&quot; website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **servethehome.com/intel-xeon-e3-1240-v6-linux-benchmarks-review-first-kaby-lake-xeon-e3-cpu/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Selection #4* is for the moment abandoned for two reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. given my experience, and that it is &quot;new technology&quot;, it may be prudent to wait until the market has saturated,&#xD;&#xA;2. it may be too powerful for my requirements; outbalancing the power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, I am leaning towards selection #2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading some Xeon E3 reviews; the Xeon E3-1260Lv5 seems to provide a good trade-off between computation power and power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a most on-topic discussion worth quoting at length&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.lime-technology.com/topic/52418-motherboardcpu-initial-unraid-server/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... [I] want to start a NAS that allows me to re-use my bunch of 3 TB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drives (5) and offers great flexibility. This could be cheap and old&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HW reuse, but I do want to put some load on the server as well...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Plex with 2-4 simultaneous Transcoding up to 1080p, no 4K in the foreseeable future of 3 years...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Some docker containers such as Plex, or some research VMs (No Gaming) for Linux/Win&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support for 10-14 Drives including parity, cache and SSDs (Docker, VM)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Headless would be nice as the box would not be at the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - less power consumption over high performance and high idle consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - system might idle 50-70% of the 24h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... CPU Passmarks [cpubenchmark] are your friend.  The rule of thumb&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is 2,000 Passmarks per simultaneous 1080p stream in Plex when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; transcoding is required.  Do you need transcoding?  If so, and leaving&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some CPU for unRAID and Dockers, you'll need a 9,000 - 10,000 Passmark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU which is fairly high end - Core i7 or Xeon territory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... E3 is a nice compromise of horsepower and lower power usage if you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; don't really need all the cores and PCIex lanes of an E5, but you can&#xD;&#xA;&gt; build a great server box with an E5 if you want to go that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I think they both deliver as promised.  Note that the E3-1260L v5 is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for low power operation (TDP 45w), so it's inherently more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; efficient than it's higher powered &quot;cousin&quot;.  But most significantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; vis-à-vis their relative PassMark calculations -- the PassMark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; benchmark is by nature CPU intensive ... and this is exactly when the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel CPU's will bump up the clock to their &quot;turbo&quot; frequencies to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; gain maximum &quot;horsepower&quot;.  Note that although the 1260L's base&#xD;&#xA;&gt; frequency is only 2.9GHz (compared to a base frequency of 3.6GHz for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 1275);  the Turbo frequency is 3.9GHz ... nearly equal to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4.0GHz turbo frequency for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the PassMark performance test is run, clearly either CPU will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ramp up to Turbo speed -- thus the very close performance figures. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; And the 1260L will do it more efficiently ... consuming a max of 45w&#xD;&#xA;&gt; compared to 80w for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  Very similar performance (9629 vs 10067 PassMark ... favor of the 1260L)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L much more power efficient (45w TDP vs 80w)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L has a slightly higher turbo speed for single core; slightly lower when all cores are in turbo mode .. probably a wash&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  As you've noted the 1230 is less expensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Personally, I'd go for the 1260L, just for the better efficiency. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; It'll run cooler; can ramp up to the same performance level while&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drawing just over half the power; and in the great scheme of things a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 50€ difference is really irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="fc5e1a10-e8d8-4896-8e48-b0613240582c" CreationDate="2017-09-27T00:51:51.817" UserId="7032" Comment="added 1303 characters in body" Text="**UPDATE 1, 2, 3 at the end**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\[2\] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 1&#xD;&#xA;I have added a row at the end of the CPU comparison table above with the &quot;CPU Mark&quot; results from the &quot;cpubenchmark&quot; website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **servethehome.com/intel-xeon-e3-1240-v6-linux-benchmarks-review-first-kaby-lake-xeon-e3-cpu/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Selection #4* is for the moment abandoned for two reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. given my experience, and that it is &quot;new technology&quot;, it may be prudent to wait until the market has saturated,&#xD;&#xA;2. it may be too powerful for my requirements; outbalancing the power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, I am leaning towards selection #2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading some Xeon E3 reviews; the Xeon E3-1260Lv5 seems to provide a good trade-off between computation power and power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a most on-topic discussion worth quoting at length&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.lime-technology.com/topic/52418-motherboardcpu-initial-unraid-server/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... [I] want to start a NAS that allows me to re-use my bunch of 3 TB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drives (5) and offers great flexibility. This could be cheap and old&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HW reuse, but I do want to put some load on the server as well...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Plex with 2-4 simultaneous Transcoding up to 1080p, no 4K in the foreseeable future of 3 years...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Some docker containers such as Plex, or some research VMs (No Gaming) for Linux/Win&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support for 10-14 Drives including parity, cache and SSDs (Docker, VM)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Headless would be nice as the box would not be at the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - less power consumption over high performance and high idle consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - system might idle 50-70% of the 24h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... CPU Passmarks [cpubenchmark] are your friend.  The rule of thumb&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is 2,000 Passmarks per simultaneous 1080p stream in Plex when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; transcoding is required.  Do you need transcoding?  If so, and leaving&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some CPU for unRAID and Dockers, you'll need a 9,000 - 10,000 Passmark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU which is fairly high end - Core i7 or Xeon territory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... E3 is a nice compromise of horsepower and lower power usage if you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; don't really need all the cores and PCIex lanes of an E5, but you can&#xD;&#xA;&gt; build a great server box with an E5 if you want to go that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I think they both deliver as promised.  Note that the E3-1260L v5 is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for low power operation (TDP 45w), so it's inherently more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; efficient than it's higher powered &quot;cousin&quot;.  But most significantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; vis-à-vis their relative PassMark calculations -- the PassMark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; benchmark is by nature CPU intensive ... and this is exactly when the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel CPU's will bump up the clock to their &quot;turbo&quot; frequencies to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; gain maximum &quot;horsepower&quot;.  Note that although the 1260L's base&#xD;&#xA;&gt; frequency is only 2.9GHz (compared to a base frequency of 3.6GHz for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 1275);  the Turbo frequency is 3.9GHz ... nearly equal to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4.0GHz turbo frequency for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the PassMark performance test is run, clearly either CPU will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ramp up to Turbo speed -- thus the very close performance figures. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; And the 1260L will do it more efficiently ... consuming a max of 45w&#xD;&#xA;&gt; compared to 80w for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  Very similar performance (9629 vs 10067 PassMark ... favor of the 1260L) &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L much more power efficient (45w TDP vs 80w) &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L has a slightly higher turbo speed for single core; slightly lower when all cores are in turbo mode .. probably a wash &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  As you've noted the 1230 is less expensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Personally, I'd go for the 1260L, just for the better efficiency. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; It'll run cooler; can ramp up to the same performance level while&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drawing just over half the power; and in the great scheme of things a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 50€ difference is really irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 3&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to the GPU, it seems that I have to reconsider somethings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the following. although from 2006,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.anandtech.com/threads/thin-clients-and-gpus.1964071/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, video cards on either end won't matter, everything is rendered on the server and pumped over the network to the client so the client just gets a bitmap from the server. Just install VNC on a box and then connect to it with the VNC client to get an idea of what we're talking about, Citrix and RDP are both faster and more effecient than VNC but the idea is similar. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The key points:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Server &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Very important &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Very important  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Client &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Low importance  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Moderate importance &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this is correct, I need to reconsider the terminal/client allocation of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The alternative is to setup a &quot;Virtualized GPU&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **brianmadden.com/opinion/NVIDIA-AMD-and-Intel-How-they-do-their-GPU-virtualization**&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PCI_passthrough_via_OVMF**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case, I have consider a &quot;Hypervisors&quot; implementation for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In either case, I believe my answer is at the next stop: Super User :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://#u1%201&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://#a" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="5ffa9e9f-64fa-49f8-8c65-2688f52074cd" CreationDate="2017-09-27T01:00:03.183" UserId="7032" Comment="edited body" Text="**UPDATE 1, 2, 3 at the end**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;(As this is my first post I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - W-2125 is launched but not yet available on the market? (https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\[2\] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE**&#xD;&#xA; - **hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html**&#xD;&#xA; - Cf **superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering**&#xD;&#xA; - **serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 1&#xD;&#xA;I have added a row at the end of the CPU comparison table above with the &quot;CPU Mark&quot; results from the &quot;cpubenchmark&quot; website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **servethehome.com/intel-xeon-e3-1240-v6-linux-benchmarks-review-first-kaby-lake-xeon-e3-cpu/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Selection #4* is for the moment abandoned for two reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. given my experience, and that it is &quot;new technology&quot;, it may be prudent to wait until the market has saturated,&#xD;&#xA;2. it may be too powerful for my requirements; outbalancing the power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, I am leaning towards selection #2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading some Xeon E3 reviews; the Xeon E3-1260Lv5 seems to provide a good trade-off between computation power and power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a most on-topic discussion worth quoting in length&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.lime-technology.com/topic/52418-motherboardcpu-initial-unraid-server/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... [I] want to start a NAS that allows me to re-use my bunch of 3 TB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drives (5) and offers great flexibility. This could be cheap and old&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HW reuse, but I do want to put some load on the server as well...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Plex with 2-4 simultaneous Transcoding up to 1080p, no 4K in the foreseeable future of 3 years...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Some docker containers such as Plex, or some research VMs (No Gaming) for Linux/Win&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support for 10-14 Drives including parity, cache and SSDs (Docker, VM)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Headless would be nice as the box would not be at the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - less power consumption over high performance and high idle consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - system might idle 50-70% of the 24h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... CPU Passmarks [cpubenchmark] are your friend.  The rule of thumb&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is 2,000 Passmarks per simultaneous 1080p stream in Plex when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; transcoding is required.  Do you need transcoding?  If so, and leaving&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some CPU for unRAID and Dockers, you'll need a 9,000 - 10,000 Passmark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU which is fairly high end - Core i7 or Xeon territory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... E3 is a nice compromise of horsepower and lower power usage if you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; don't really need all the cores and PCIex lanes of an E5, but you can&#xD;&#xA;&gt; build a great server box with an E5 if you want to go that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I think they both deliver as promised.  Note that the E3-1260L v5 is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for low power operation (TDP 45w), so it's inherently more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; efficient than it's higher powered &quot;cousin&quot;.  But most significantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; vis-à-vis their relative PassMark calculations -- the PassMark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; benchmark is by nature CPU intensive ... and this is exactly when the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel CPU's will bump up the clock to their &quot;turbo&quot; frequencies to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; gain maximum &quot;horsepower&quot;.  Note that although the 1260L's base&#xD;&#xA;&gt; frequency is only 2.9GHz (compared to a base frequency of 3.6GHz for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 1275);  the Turbo frequency is 3.9GHz ... nearly equal to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4.0GHz turbo frequency for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the PassMark performance test is run, clearly either CPU will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ramp up to Turbo speed -- thus the very close performance figures. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; And the 1260L will do it more efficiently ... consuming a max of 45w&#xD;&#xA;&gt; compared to 80w for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  Very similar performance (9629 vs 10067 PassMark ... favor of the 1260L) &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L much more power efficient (45w TDP vs 80w) &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L has a slightly higher turbo speed for single core; slightly lower when all cores are in turbo mode .. probably a wash &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  As you've noted the 1230 is less expensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Personally, I'd go for the 1260L, just for the better efficiency. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; It'll run cooler; can ramp up to the same performance level while&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drawing just over half the power; and in the great scheme of things a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 50€ difference is really irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 3&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to the GPU, it seems that I have to reconsider somethings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the following. although from 2006,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **forums.anandtech.com/threads/thin-clients-and-gpus.1964071/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, video cards on either end won't matter, everything is rendered on the server and pumped over the network to the client so the client just gets a bitmap from the server. Just install VNC on a box and then connect to it with the VNC client to get an idea of what we're talking about, Citrix and RDP are both faster and more effecient than VNC but the idea is similar. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The key points:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Server &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Very important &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Very important  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Client &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Low importance  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Moderate importance &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this is correct, I need to reconsider the terminal/client allocation of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The alternative is to setup a &quot;Virtualized GPU&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **brianmadden.com/opinion/NVIDIA-AMD-and-Intel-How-they-do-their-GPU-virtualization**&#xD;&#xA; - **wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PCI_passthrough_via_OVMF**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case, I have consider a &quot;Hypervisors&quot; implementation for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In either case, I believe my answer is at the next stop: Super User :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://#u1%201&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://#a" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8143" RevisionGUID="0b77b4b3-d37f-4cca-bb4e-14aba18321ae" CreationDate="2017-09-27T09:19:14.337" UserId="7048" Text="I'm looking for desktop/laptop to replace my current one. I have ~$800(based on laptop price) for budget. I like your suggestion on this matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop choice is: Lenovo y520&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 7300hq&#xD;&#xA; - gtx1050 4gb(not ti)&#xD;&#xA; - 1tb hdd&#xD;&#xA; - 4gb ram(i'll upgrade this to either dual 12gb or single 8gb)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price=~$745&#xD;&#xA;Price+additional memory=~$820&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Planned desktop spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 7400&#xD;&#xA; - gtx1050ti 4gb&#xD;&#xA; - 1tb hdd&#xD;&#xA; - 8gb ram&#xD;&#xA; - cheapest motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - cheapest psu with 80+ bronze&#xD;&#xA; - ips led tv 32&quot; for monitor (i choose tv because i like bigger screen&#xD;&#xA;   and is cheaper, i won't budge on this)&#xD;&#xA; - keyboard+mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total price=~$770&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use this for gaming i play mostly jrpg and some western(?)rpg, i won't play witcher 3(i don't like the first one) but if this come into consideration at least i want current gen console quality detail @27-30fps and 1080p for more demanding games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need this for college (programming, word processing, light image editing, etc). Depends on what i buy, i will also buy led tv for bigger display(laptop) or low-end laptop for my replacement(desktop) so if you recommend desktop please recommend me a good low-end laptop fo $250-300 also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a more powerful pc setup in the same price range please do suggest​, but the price here is usually $10-30 higher than msrp. I can't change the laptop choice though because this is the only one that fit my budget in my place. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25642" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8143" RevisionGUID="0b77b4b3-d37f-4cca-bb4e-14aba18321ae" CreationDate="2017-09-27T09:19:14.337" UserId="7048" Text="Looking for Gaming Machine, Laptop or Desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25643" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8143" RevisionGUID="0b77b4b3-d37f-4cca-bb4e-14aba18321ae" CreationDate="2017-09-27T09:19:14.337" UserId="7048" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8143" RevisionGUID="2a7cd617-91b8-4a92-9b78-ec9a1a05f622" CreationDate="2017-09-27T09:38:23.757" UserId="7048" Comment="additional information" Text="I'm looking for desktop/laptop to replace my current one. I have ~$800(based on laptop price) for budget. I like your suggestion on this matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop choice is: Lenovo y520&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 7300hq&#xD;&#xA; - gtx1050 4gb(not ti)&#xD;&#xA; - 1tb hdd&#xD;&#xA; - 4gb ram(i'll upgrade this to either dual 12gb or single 8gb)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price=~$745&#xD;&#xA;Price+additional memory=~$820&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Planned desktop spec:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i5 7400&#xD;&#xA; - gtx1050ti 4gb&#xD;&#xA; - 1tb hdd&#xD;&#xA; - 8gb ram&#xD;&#xA; - cheapest motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - cheapest psu with 80+ bronze&#xD;&#xA; - ips led tv 32&quot; for monitor (i choose tv because i like bigger screen&#xD;&#xA;   and is cheaper, i won't budge on this)&#xD;&#xA; - keyboard+mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total price=~$770&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use this for gaming i play mostly jrpg and some western(?)rpg, i won't play witcher 3(i don't like the first one) but if this come into consideration at least i want current gen console quality detail @27-30fps and 1080p for more demanding games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need this for college (programming, word processing, light image editing, etc). Depends on what i buy, i will also buy led tv for bigger display(laptop) or low-end laptop for my replacement(desktop) so if you recommend desktop please recommend me a good low-end laptop fo $250-300 also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have a more powerful pc setup in the same price range please do suggest​, but the price here is usually $10-30 higher than msrp. I can't change the laptop choice though because this is the only one that fit my budget in my place. Thanks in advance.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: I'm not rushing to buy the machine, so if there is an upcoming better solution that will fit my price range i'll gladly wait, the latest is maybe q2 next year because my current laptop physically sadden me.&#xA;For the low-end laptop to accompany the desktop (if you recommend this) my top choice is acer switch one(for diversity, etc), if you have other recommendations i prefer something lightweight but still able to do light programming." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25645" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7999" RevisionGUID="b5fdbdaa-309c-447a-bffd-1be26e21b563" CreationDate="2017-09-27T17:21:10.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8145" RevisionGUID="b5d55627-83bc-4f59-9b4a-ff9eb924243c" CreationDate="2017-09-27T19:23:28.973" UserId="241" Text="Your mainboard takes AMD Socket FM2/FM2+ CPUs.  That's a fairly old socket, designed for AMD's APU-series processors, so modern high-power CPUs aren't available for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest you're going to get to the performance of an i5-6600 is the [A10-7890K][1], currently available from Newegg for $150.  It benchmarks about 10% slower than the i5-6600 for single-threaded work, and about 30% slower for multi-threaded.  This may or may not be sufficient for your purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113402" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8146" RevisionGUID="f194157e-84f5-44fa-871d-3536c3572a87" CreationDate="2017-09-27T23:27:11.303" UserId="7053" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be attending university where my courses include Autocad 3D and Geographic information systems (GIS). I want to buy a laptop that I could use during my university and hopefully professionally in the future. I am not looking for the bare minimum nor top of the line. I would like to invest around $1600 in it. &#xD;&#xA;my main requirements are being able to work efficiently, weight under 5 lbs, good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did hear AutoCAD will not utilize more than one core as it is not a multi-thread application (is this true?) so to instead focus on a processor with higher cache memory&#xD;&#xA;would I need a dedicated graphics card?&#xD;&#xA;some people say get a gaming laptop, but most are closer to $2000 and too heavy (over 5 lbs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i find that stores sales people just push a product they want to sell. so i was hoping someone here could suggest me a laptop that i could buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25649" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8146" RevisionGUID="f194157e-84f5-44fa-871d-3536c3572a87" CreationDate="2017-09-27T23:27:11.303" UserId="7053" Text="System requirements in laptop for a student Autocad 3D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25650" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8146" RevisionGUID="f194157e-84f5-44fa-871d-3536c3572a87" CreationDate="2017-09-27T23:27:11.303" UserId="7053" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8149" RevisionGUID="e2fd33a5-3242-46dd-a220-5250576a3967" CreationDate="2017-09-28T09:52:03.363" UserId="7058" Text="Most of AutoCAD is single-threaded. It does have a few multithreaded subprocesses here and there, but most of your actual waiting-on-the-computer time is going to be long single-threaded operations. That is in regards to the main GUI application, which you would probably be using most as a student. There is also a program installed with AutoCAD that can be found in its directory called **accoreconsole.exe** which is basically a commandline only version of AutoCAD that *is* multi-threaded.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, it is sort of a moot point since you're not shelling out thousands for a workstation with many cores; leaving your options basically to an Intel Core i5 or i7. The difference between the i5 and i7 is that the i5 is cheaper and lacks hyperthreading, while the i7 is more expensive and features hyperthreading(which allows each core to run two separate threads simultaneously). If budget allows, I'd opt for the i7. At work, I tried running the i7's in our mobile workstations without hyperthreading for a while. It did not seem to make a big difference in AutoCAD's performance, but the performance hit while multi-tasking was noticeable, so it was better to run with hyperthreading.&#xD;&#xA;The largest cost of those ($3000) mobile workstations was the NVidia Quadros that they had been ordered with. AFAIK, AutoCAD does not use any of the features that Quadros have that Geforces are lacking, so shelling out 5x as much for the Quadro is a waste for only working with AutoCAD. You may notice better performance with a Quadro while using Revit, 3DSMax, Maya, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a good deal, I would look for a laptop with an i7-4790k, as they are two generations old(cheap), and have single-core clock speeds on par with current generations. If you can find the 4790k in a laptop that also comes with an NVidia Geforce 1080, that would be perfect, but it will likely have a 980 at best given the generation. You will also need a good deal of memory, so shoot for the 4790k's maximum of 32GB. The last essential performance-related component would be your storage. I recommend getting two identical SSDs(256GBx2 or 512GBx2) and run them in RAID0. For peace of mind, you can pick up a third SSD and run in RAID5 so you have at least some sort of failsafe against a dead drive that contained your &quot;big project&quot;. The last recommendation I have is get as big a screen as the remainder of your budget allows, screen space is very valuable in AutoCAD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32GB of RAM and 3x SSDs would be leaning toward the mobile workstation sized laptops. The $3000 machines at work are a couple years old now, so they may be affordable now, especially used. They are the &quot;HP Z-book 17&quot;. I personally don't recommend HP, as their business is mostly focused on selling service contracts to businesses, so there's likely something cheaper with equal stats from another manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not familiar with what AMD has to offer for laptops, so I can't offer any credible alternatives to Intel/NVidia." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="197afa1f-2a3e-4996-b695-7dddfe7026d3" CreationDate="2017-09-28T10:37:10.243" UserId="7058" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkBook(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery. This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="50a3a51e-3e3f-40f2-8256-6ffbaf05596a" CreationDate="2017-09-28T10:44:29.340" UserId="7058" Comment="added 281 characters in body" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkBook(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with a glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery. This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA; - Allowing the fan intake to become blocked(often by clothing or furniture, eventually by dust) will cause the CPU to run hot and eventually shut itself off. While most laptops can survive this happening quite often, I'm not sure it's going to help achieve a 10 year lifetime.&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe once a year, open the laptop up and blow or vacuum out all the dust. Be sure to use a plastic tool to pop plastic snaps and clips. Use correctly sized screwdrivers(no wiggle) to avoid stripping screw heads. Don't over-tighten screws, they only need to be tight enough that they don't wiggle loose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="f7650f00-e1ca-4df1-b1a8-703ffbb2e8ba" CreationDate="2017-09-28T10:53:59.900" UserId="7058" Comment="added 281 characters in body" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkBook(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with a glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Heavier usually means greater physical durability.&#xD;&#xA; 11. If at all possible, avoid a large central touchpad. This is becoming less of an issue as touchpad design improves, but constant rubbing of the palms on a touchpad will wear it down. Test the touchpad left and right mouse buttons just as you tested the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; 12. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery. This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA; - Allowing the fan intake to become blocked(often by clothing or furniture, eventually by dust) will cause the CPU to run hot and eventually shut itself off. While most laptops can survive this happening quite often, I'm not sure it's going to help achieve a 10 year lifetime.&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe once a year, open the laptop up and blow or vacuum out all the dust. Be sure to use a plastic tool to pop plastic snaps and clips. Use correctly sized screwdrivers(no wiggle) to avoid stripping screw heads. Don't over-tighten screws, they only need to be tight enough that they don't wiggle loose. READ the user manual, or better yet a service manual specific to the laptop model. Each laptop model offers a brand new disassembly/reassembly experience, and following the manufacturer's directions will help to avoid breaking something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="0211751f-43ea-4f85-b8e7-10606047712a" CreationDate="2017-09-28T10:59:37.843" UserId="7058" Comment="added 281 characters in body" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkBook(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with a glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.) Aside from being easier to clean, the solid screen surface helps avoid the slight bending that happens when opening the &quot;lid&quot;. Also, a lid that opens smoothly with a constant heavier resistance to it usually holds the weight of the screen better. You don't want a laptop that tries to fold back flat whenever you set it down.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Heavier usually means greater physical durability.&#xD;&#xA; 11. If at all possible, avoid a large central touchpad. This is becoming less of an issue as touchpad design improves, but constant rubbing of the palms on a touchpad will wear it down. Test the touchpad left and right mouse buttons just as you tested the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; 12. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery. This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA; - Allowing the fan intake to become blocked(often by clothing or furniture, eventually by dust) will cause the CPU to run hot and eventually shut itself off. While most laptops can survive this happening quite often, I'm not sure it's going to help achieve a 10 year lifetime.&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe once a year, open the laptop up and blow or vacuum out all the dust. Be sure to use a plastic tool to pop plastic snaps and clips. Use correctly sized screwdrivers(no wiggle) to avoid stripping screw heads. Don't over-tighten screws, they only need to be tight enough that they don't wiggle loose. READ the user manual, or better yet a service manual specific to the laptop model. Each laptop model offers a brand new disassembly/reassembly experience, and following the manufacturer's directions will help to avoid breaking something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25664" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="eb56d6a0-2522-476f-a1d4-a939d433e3a0" CreationDate="2017-09-28T11:04:46.840" UserId="7058" Comment="added 281 characters in body" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkBook(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily. They often have a very sturdy central structural point for attaching a security cable to (for securing to a location in public or anywhere it is likely to be stolen). This structural point is always solid steel and often extends around the internal components so that a firm yank on the cable connection won't severely damage the laptop.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with a glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.) Aside from being easier to clean, the solid screen surface helps avoid the slight bending that happens when opening the &quot;lid&quot;. Also, a lid that opens smoothly with a constant heavier resistance to it usually holds the weight of the screen better. You don't want a laptop that tries to fold back flat whenever you set it down.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Heavier usually means greater physical durability. Look for models that have metal trim around all the edges, and high quality plastic elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA; 11. If at all possible, avoid a large central touchpad. This is becoming less of an issue as touchpad design improves, but constant rubbing of the palms on a touchpad will wear it down. Test the touchpad left and right mouse buttons just as you tested the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; 12. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery. This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA; - Allowing the fan intake to become blocked(often by clothing or furniture, eventually by dust) will cause the CPU to run hot and eventually shut itself off. While most laptops can survive this happening quite often, I'm not sure it's going to help achieve a 10 year lifetime.&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe once a year, open the laptop up and blow or vacuum out all the dust. Be sure to use a plastic tool to pop plastic snaps and clips. Use correctly sized screwdrivers(no wiggle) to avoid stripping screw heads. Don't over-tighten screws, they only need to be tight enough that they don't wiggle loose. READ the user manual, or better yet a service manual specific to the laptop model. Each laptop model offers a brand new disassembly/reassembly experience, and following the manufacturer's directions will help to avoid breaking something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25665" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8150" RevisionGUID="6e33ad09-7371-4c97-a777-fc268625fd56" CreationDate="2017-09-28T11:10:10.007" UserId="7058" Comment="added 281 characters in body" Text="No specific laptop model recommendations, but heres a few tips.&#xD;&#xA;If you want the laptop to be able to run most programs made 10 years down the road, you'll want to pick up a newer model than a ThinkPad(Assuming you're running Windows). So..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Pick a model with newish hardware(specs).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Commercial-grade laptops with anti-theft features will more often be constructed very sturdily. They often have a very sturdy central structural point for attaching a security cable to (for securing to a location in public or anywhere it is likely to be stolen). This structural point is always solid steel and often extends around the internal components so that a firm yank on the cable connection won't severely damage the laptop.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Stray away from models that are designed around being &quot;thin&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; 4. A machine that allows overclocking will also allow underclocking, which can drastically improve component life-time.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Try to shop within any given manufacturer's high-end. Their low and mid-grade products are often intentionally faulty.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Get a laptop with a glass or acrylic screen. (As opposed to the poke-for-a-rainbow LCD screens.) Aside from being easier to clean, the solid screen surface helps avoid the slight bending that happens when opening the &quot;lid&quot;. Also, a lid that opens smoothly with a constant heavier resistance to it usually holds the weight of the screen better. You don't want a laptop that tries to fold back flat whenever you set it down.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Try out the keys on the keyboard, if pressing one side of a key causes the other side to lift, it is a flimsy keyboard with lots of uneven pressure being applied to the internal contact. These can eventually require pressing very hard to function, and then break in half, and may urge you to fist-a-bomb the whole board in frustration.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Avoid anything with touch-activated buttons. That is, buttons that sense a finger and lack an actual button mechanism. These eventually fail all the time.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Make sure there is at least one fan for the CPU. Fanless laptops run slow or run hot.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Heavier usually means greater physical durability. Look for models that have metal trim around all the edges, and high quality plastic elsewhere.&#xD;&#xA; 11. If at all possible, avoid a large central touchpad. This is becoming less of an issue as touchpad design improves, but constant rubbing of the palms on a touchpad will wear it down. Test the touchpad left and right mouse buttons just as you tested the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; 12. Lastly, no matter what you choose to buy, you'll need to take good care of it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Letting a laptop sit on an uneven surface for a long time will cause the body to warp. &#xD;&#xA; - Using the computer with the screen facing the Sun all the time will cause display issues such as fading and discoloration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Overclocking can reduce CPU/GPU life, especially over 10 years.&#xD;&#xA; - Applying shear force to a USB thumb-drive sticking out of your laptop can seriously damage the USB port(usually more damage to the drive).&#xD;&#xA; - Running the laptop while plugged into AC power for long periods of time while the battery is at full charge will kill the battery(i.e., reduce the battery capacity to less than an hour). This can be tedious to avoid and can happen regardless due to a number of factors, so I would count on replacing the battery once or twice during those 10 years if battery life is important to you.&#xD;&#xA; - Allowing the fan intake to become blocked(often by clothing or furniture, eventually by dust) will cause the CPU to run hot and eventually shut itself off. While most laptops can survive this happening quite often, I'm not sure it's going to help achieve a 10 year lifetime.&#xD;&#xA; - Maybe once a year, open the laptop up and blow or vacuum out all the dust. Be sure to use a plastic tool to pop plastic snaps and clips. Use correctly sized screwdrivers(no wiggle) to avoid stripping screw heads. Don't over-tighten screws, they only need to be tight enough that they don't wiggle loose. READ the user manual, or better yet a service manual specific to the laptop model. Each laptop model offers a brand new disassembly/reassembly experience, and following the manufacturer's directions will help to avoid breaking something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something *really* durable, look for field laptops or military/law enforcement laptops which are often armored, and have a solid frame. Some even have their void spaces filled with foam for shock-resistance so they keep on working despite being dropped, tossed around, run over... shot, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25666" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="b595e8d5-ee1f-410e-bea2-5171097bbe39" CreationDate="2017-09-28T12:39:41.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25672" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8146" RevisionGUID="a52ad51c-4623-4a43-aa6b-620ef19b2519" CreationDate="2017-09-28T20:58:34.120" UserId="7053" Comment="added 523 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I will be attending university where my courses include working on AutoCAD 2016 3D, sketchup and Geographic information systems (GIS) softwares. there will &#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a laptop that I could use during my university and hopefully professionally in the future. I am not looking for the bare minimum nor top of the line. I would like to invest around $1600 for it. &#xD;&#xA;my main requirements are being able to work efficiently, weight under 5 lbs, good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;hope someone can help me with these questions  &#xD;&#xA;- I did hear AutoCAD will not utilize more than one core as it is not a multi-thread application (is this true even if I will be doing 3D?)  &#xD;&#xA;- I was told I would need a dedicated graphics card so is it necessary to go for the i7-xxxxHQ / HK etc or would a i7-xxxxU be better? the reason I ask this because I read that the higher end processors use up a lot of space for integrated graphics and plugging in a graphics card just nullifies all that.  &#xD;&#xA;- the laptop I currently own is almost 10 yrs old so I need a new laptop. is it worth trying to invest in an expensive laptop to suit all my needs or should I just get a normal laptop for my personal use and invest in a desktop to use for these softwares?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i find that stores sales people just push a product they want to sell. so i was hoping someone here could suggest me a laptop / specifications that i could look into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8154" RevisionGUID="e13867d6-d1bd-4c1b-b3ac-4e8122821015" CreationDate="2017-09-29T15:29:54.417" UserId="5442" Text="I have taken a look at A4 size e-ink ebook readers for pdf files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found five models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SONY DPT RP1&#xD;&#xA; - Good e-reader 13.3&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Onyx Boox Max Carta&#xD;&#xA; - Dasung&#xD;&#xA; - Icarus A4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And there is Remarkable, but that is only 10&quot; large.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have quite the same price, around 700 $.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On what properties should I evaluate these models, if I want to read scientific books and research papers on them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8154" RevisionGUID="e13867d6-d1bd-4c1b-b3ac-4e8122821015" CreationDate="2017-09-29T15:29:54.417" UserId="5442" Text="Aspects of choosing an ebook reader for pdf files" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8154" RevisionGUID="e13867d6-d1bd-4c1b-b3ac-4e8122821015" CreationDate="2017-09-29T15:29:54.417" UserId="5442" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="39a732cd-984e-4253-be70-c510741e693c" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:30:13.203" UserId="7064" Text="I'm currently using a Beaglebone Black as a multipurpose toolkit and I'm having trouble finding a replacement. The specs (that I use) are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 512 MB RAM (somewhat low for updates but it works)&#xD;&#xA;- USB client (absolutely required for the gadget functionality)&#xD;&#xA;- 4 GB onboard flash (somewhat low as the kernel sources and portage tree take up a large portion of it)&#xD;&#xA;- MicroSD slot (only used for music, ISO files for mass storage/CD gadget, and storage for traffic dumps)&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet (ideally 2+ for bridging and logging traffic)&#xD;&#xA;- USB (ideally 2+, used for Bluetooth or a second Ethernet adapter since the BBB (non-wireless) does not have either of those built in)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other features (dual PRU, GPIO) have potential uses, but those are less important than the list items. Additional Ethernet can be added with more USB ports, but carrying the extra dongles along is a hassle.&#xD;&#xA;Built in wireless with a chipset that can be put into monitor mode would also be nice, but not if it replaces Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about the BBB is I can use most of the features with just USB power from my laptop so I don't need to worry about a power source, I just can't find anything better that can replace it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25694" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="39a732cd-984e-4253-be70-c510741e693c" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:30:13.203" UserId="7064" Text="Beaglebone Black Upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25695" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="39a732cd-984e-4253-be70-c510741e693c" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:30:13.203" UserId="7064" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25701" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="79b96d4f-b8a0-4bdd-a0a0-f3b925fb30eb" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:17:54.180" UserId="5579" Text="I need a new PC, because my old one, doesn't hold up for my use anymore.&#xD;&#xA;He's slow has a long loading time and crashes a lot...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it mainly for the following programmes:&#xD;&#xA;Maya, Nuke, Houdini, Cubase, Photoshop, Premiere, After effects, Sketchup, Remake, Zbrush, DaVince...&#xD;&#xA;Basically, the suites of the foundry, Autodesk, Adobe...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want one with the minimum system requirements, but one that can run the above-mentioned software smoothly and can also do some simulations and render without crashing instantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also should be able to output 3D, this is asked in my other question:&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/8156/5579&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Current PC:&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7&#xD;&#xA;8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i7 870 @ 2.93 GHz&#xD;&#xA;64bit&#xD;&#xA;NVIDIA GeForce GT 330&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25702" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="79b96d4f-b8a0-4bdd-a0a0-f3b925fb30eb" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:17:54.180" UserId="5579" Text="PC for Animation and Film software - Maya, Nuke, Houdini, Cubase" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25703" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="79b96d4f-b8a0-4bdd-a0a0-f3b925fb30eb" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:17:54.180" UserId="5579" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8158" RevisionGUID="108433f2-494a-46b1-89aa-17c453387918" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:23:48.567" UserId="5579" Text="Autodesk has listed their system requirements for each of their programs and versions their website:&#xD;&#xA;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-AutoCAD.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following can be found here:&#xD;&#xA;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-AutoCAD-2016.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System requirements for AutoCAD 2016&#xD;&#xA;Operating System	&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft® Windows® 10 (requires AutoCAD 2016 SP1)&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Windows 8/8.1&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Windows 7&#xD;&#xA;CPU Type	Minimum Intel® Pentium® 4 or AMD Athlon™ 64 processor&#xD;&#xA;Memory	For 32-bit AutoCAD 2016:&#xD;&#xA;2 GB (3 GB recommended)&#xD;&#xA;For 64-bit AutoCAD 2016:&#xD;&#xA;4 GB (8 GB recommended)&#xD;&#xA;Display Resolution	1024x768 (1600x1050 or higher recommended) with True Color&#xD;&#xA;Display Card	Windows display adapter capable of 1024x768 with True Color capabilities. DirectX® 9 or DirectX 11 compliant card recommended.&#xD;&#xA;Disk Space	Installation 6.0 GB&#xD;&#xA;Pointing Device	MS-Mouse compliant device&#xD;&#xA;Media (DVD)	Download and installation from DVD&#xD;&#xA;Browser	Windows Internet Explorer® 9.0 (or later)&#xD;&#xA;.NET Framework	.NET Framework Version 4.5&#xD;&#xA;Network	Deployment via Deployment Wizard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The license server and all workstations that will run applications dependent on network licensing must run TCP/IP protocol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either Microsoft® or Novell TCP/IP protocol stacks are acceptable. Primary login on workstations may be Netware or Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to operating systems supported for the application, the license server will run on the Windows Server® 2012, Windows Server 2012 R2, Windows Server 2008, Windows 2008 R2 Server editions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Citrix® XenApp™ 6.5 FP1, Citrix® XenDesktop™ 5.6." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25705" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8158" RevisionGUID="32bc2d8b-98ae-4dba-bd66-fc550d8ebd11" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:31:05.137" UserId="5579" Comment="added 523 characters in body" Text="Autodesk has listed their system requirements for each of their programs and versions their website:&#xD;&#xA;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-AutoCAD.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have some recommendations listed, which I would go with.&#xD;&#xA;Depending on how long you are planning on using this software or planning to upgrade it will make a difference whether to buy a laptop or desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantage of a desktop PC is, that you can add &quot;better&quot; or &quot;newer&quot; parts as soon as the current ones don't hold up anymore. This can become a problem with a laptop, when you either choose to upgrade the software or get larger projects, as it's more complicated to add new hardware to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following can be found here:&#xD;&#xA;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-AutoCAD-2016.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System requirements for AutoCAD 2016&#xD;&#xA;Operating System	&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft® Windows® 10 (requires AutoCAD 2016 SP1)&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Windows 8/8.1&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Windows 7&#xD;&#xA;CPU Type	Minimum Intel® Pentium® 4 or AMD Athlon™ 64 processor&#xD;&#xA;Memory	For 32-bit AutoCAD 2016:&#xD;&#xA;2 GB (3 GB recommended)&#xD;&#xA;For 64-bit AutoCAD 2016:&#xD;&#xA;4 GB (8 GB recommended)&#xD;&#xA;Display Resolution	1024x768 (1600x1050 or higher recommended) with True Color&#xD;&#xA;Display Card	Windows display adapter capable of 1024x768 with True Color capabilities. DirectX® 9 or DirectX 11 compliant card recommended.&#xD;&#xA;Disk Space	Installation 6.0 GB&#xD;&#xA;Pointing Device	MS-Mouse compliant device&#xD;&#xA;Media (DVD)	Download and installation from DVD&#xD;&#xA;Browser	Windows Internet Explorer® 9.0 (or later)&#xD;&#xA;.NET Framework	.NET Framework Version 4.5&#xD;&#xA;Network	Deployment via Deployment Wizard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The license server and all workstations that will run applications dependent on network licensing must run TCP/IP protocol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either Microsoft® or Novell TCP/IP protocol stacks are acceptable. Primary login on workstations may be Netware or Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to operating systems supported for the application, the license server will run on the Windows Server® 2012, Windows Server 2012 R2, Windows Server 2008, Windows 2008 R2 Server editions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Citrix® XenApp™ 6.5 FP1, Citrix® XenDesktop™ 5.6." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8159" RevisionGUID="20dfc29b-a278-4e17-9768-7ebd78c31e68" CreationDate="2017-09-30T10:48:42.027" UserId="6213" Text="Soekris Net5501 fits the bill. Have a look at it. It has GPIO, 4 ethernet ports, serial port, SATA host, etc. It’s not tiny, but it’s not uncomfortably big either." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25708" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="64a1aa91-785c-4168-a1b0-8af3fd4bfc94" CreationDate="2017-09-30T17:10:58.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="24fb51a5-358c-4dad-b095-ff1179991dcf" CreationDate="2017-09-30T20:20:10.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25712" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8159" RevisionGUID="f98ec096-f82c-48f3-a0af-c53b7243fe28" CreationDate="2017-10-01T09:25:35.797" UserId="6213" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="Soekris Net5501 fits the bill. Have a look at it. It has GPIO, 4 ethernet ports, serial port, SATA host, USB port.&#xA;&#xA;It’s not tiny, but it’s not uncomfortably big either." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8160" RevisionGUID="515f2782-244b-48d0-94f1-2ab50c0cb407" CreationDate="2017-10-01T09:32:58.230" UserId="5581" Text="I am looking for a computer keyboard with the following three properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It is foldable (not the soft silicon rolling type keyboards, but hard material with folding joints) or extra-small,&#xD;&#xA;2. It can be connected wired with USB (or PS/2, there are adapters. Wireless is optional nice feature, but must not be the only way),&#xD;&#xA;3. It has an integrated mouse (trackpoint preferred, but other types also accepted).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did a lot of search using the internet and some online stores, and only find keyboards which fullfill two of the three criteria, but not all three in one device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any device which fullfills the three criteria? Which?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25714" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8160" RevisionGUID="515f2782-244b-48d0-94f1-2ab50c0cb407" CreationDate="2017-10-01T09:32:58.230" UserId="5581" Text="Wired USB connected foldable keyboard with mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25715" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8160" RevisionGUID="515f2782-244b-48d0-94f1-2ab50c0cb407" CreationDate="2017-10-01T09:32:58.230" UserId="5581" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25716" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="40930e52-0281-4ae8-a186-dc07e8deeafb" CreationDate="2017-10-01T10:27:37.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8162" RevisionGUID="e0a7fc1b-a495-4313-8ade-31ef46bff3d3" CreationDate="2017-10-01T17:13:19.867" UserId="7068" Text="I'm looking to purchase a PC to run my Minecraft server on. It needs 8GB of RAM and a decent processor. I'm not going to do much else with it, so I don't need a large HDD or an SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the price would be under £200, or even under £150 if possible. If there's a good PC with 4GB of RAM and another cheap 4GB stick, that would work too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25719" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8162" RevisionGUID="e0a7fc1b-a495-4313-8ade-31ef46bff3d3" CreationDate="2017-10-01T17:13:19.867" UserId="7068" Text="Cheap PC with 8GB of RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25720" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8162" RevisionGUID="e0a7fc1b-a495-4313-8ade-31ef46bff3d3" CreationDate="2017-10-01T17:13:19.867" UserId="7068" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25725" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="b6ee69b3-b2f5-48a7-b209-1c64a895c56d" CreationDate="2017-10-01T20:36:55.873" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25734" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="c2a3b11e-9522-4471-8175-8554585be868" CreationDate="2017-10-02T09:47:30.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25735" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8166" RevisionGUID="684996e8-6d41-4af8-a05f-de58bfbfa590" CreationDate="2017-10-02T09:48:16.920" UserId="7075" Text="If you are looking just for a PC without a monitor,speakers, keyboard...(considering you have those). Budget might go bit over the 270$ limit. [This](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/) would be a perfect PC. You can also buy these parts used or new for less money since the pricing here is Amazon-based. I figured you wouldn't need an OS(since everyone knows where to get it :D) and an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8167" RevisionGUID="fda469c2-e0b5-45fe-85c1-727c26d4fc7e" CreationDate="2017-10-02T09:54:14.130" UserId="7075" Text="I believe [iClever IC-BK08](https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Sensitive-Pocket-Sized-Tri-folding-Bluetooth/dp/B01MTVC775/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506937956&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iClever+IC-BK08) would do the job. [Here](http://www.notebookreview.com/review/iclever-ic-bk08-portable-tri-folding-bluetooth-keyboard-touchpad-review/) is a review. It has a micro-USB port but there are adapters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8172" RevisionGUID="a33ed37b-0e90-4113-8c11-967ccb24246b" CreationDate="2017-10-02T17:36:08.137" UserId="7051" Text="There is Serial to Bluetooth adapters, easily fond by using a search engine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And with a Raspberry Pi, Max323 chip you can make a Serial to ethernet (WiFi or wire depending on Raspberry Pi version) device or just ssh into the Raspberry and run minicom from the console." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8173" RevisionGUID="08090aa7-4e11-486d-a2e2-4def95d0ad32" CreationDate="2017-10-02T18:08:55.563" UserId="6772" Text=" I would like to set up a wireless audio set up for my home, i have 3 room in which i would like to have speakers so i could listen to music. I would like these speakers to be able to connect wirelessly to my pc and android phone. I will have power to supply the speakers. &#xD;&#xA; All i could find are some bluetooth systems that could support a maximum of 2 speakers. But on one hand i need three and on the other hand my apartments walls are reinforced concrete so i don't think bluetooth is the way to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8173" RevisionGUID="08090aa7-4e11-486d-a2e2-4def95d0ad32" CreationDate="2017-10-02T18:08:55.563" UserId="6772" Text="Is there a audio wireless home system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8173" RevisionGUID="08090aa7-4e11-486d-a2e2-4def95d0ad32" CreationDate="2017-10-02T18:08:55.563" UserId="6772" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8174" RevisionGUID="df4eb142-a6e2-4083-9b58-0e102f3e8f34" CreationDate="2017-10-02T19:16:34.680" UserId="6698" Text="Mikrotik has various devices, for example [mAP][1] with suggested price $45. Wireless You can disable. You can power it via POE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/RBmAP2nD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25757" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8166" RevisionGUID="ec3ac1cf-d190-4911-b2e3-3a877024d906" CreationDate="2017-10-02T19:21:38.283" UserId="7075" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="If you are looking just for a PC without a monitor,speakers, keyboard...(considering you have those). Budget might go bit over the 270$ limit. [This](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jCtPZ8) would be a perfect PC. You can also buy these parts used or new for less money since the pricing here is Amazon/Newegg-based. I figured you wouldn't need an OS(since everyone knows where to get it :D) and an optical drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25764" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="a7b7c1ab-717a-43d4-b842-926318ea3d72" CreationDate="2017-10-03T23:07:26.457" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8178" RevisionGUID="feac04ea-a7b8-4bf4-884a-3d92622f8adc" CreationDate="2017-10-04T05:51:07.073" UserId="47" Text="The [ATEN CS1924][1] fits your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4-port DisplayPort KVMP Switch with USB 3.1 Gen1 hub and 2.1 surround sound audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Superior video quality – 4K UHD (3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz) and 4K DCI (4096 x 2160 @ 60 Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* DisplayPort 1.2 compliant, HDCP compliant&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Supports HD audio through DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Full bass response for high-quality 2.1 channel surround sound systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* DisplayPort Dual–Mode technology (DP++) supports HDMI and DVI signals via a DisplayPort-to-HDMI/DVI DP++ adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/us/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs1924/#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25769" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8179" RevisionGUID="2ece3805-7f2d-4390-b31b-1682688b6fac" CreationDate="2017-10-04T06:40:58.773" UserId="47" Text="*I'd ideally like to handle rebooting multiple machines together so I don't have to wait 3 minutes to reboot one then the next, but if video magic or DDC/EDID emulation (or whatever's needed to do that) will add a lot to the cost, then it's not essential.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To achieve this, you should look into KVMs made by ATEN that have the Video DynaSync feature.  Video DynaSync was invented by ATEN, and they describe it in a [white paper][1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the various computers wired to the KVM switch are booted up, they may or may not be able to detect the monitor’s EDID; it depends on whether the &#xD;&#xA;switch has connected a given computer to the user’s monitor, and whether the DDC conveys the monitor EDID to the computer. [...] Some KVM switches offer a default EDID to the computers, but this default is just an arbitrary &#xD;&#xA;monitor resolution. While an arbitrary EDID may allow switched computers to boot up as though they had read the actual monitor EDID, the chances are that they’ll boot with a less-than-optimum resolution. [...] In some cases the modern monitor may be unable to display anything when the user actually switches to them using an incorrect default EDID value, or the computer may &#xD;&#xA;take a while to re-sync to the correct monitor resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ATEN solves the switched EDID dilemma by adding specially configured EDID memory to its Video DynaSync™-equipped KVM switches. When such a KVM switch is connected to an EDID-enabled monitor and turned on, the switch reads the monitor’s EDID and stores it in non-volatile memory. This memory is made available at once to all the computers connected to the Video DynaSync™ equipped KVM, and these computers are able to use DDC sensing to instantly read out the KVM switch’s stored monitor EDID. [...] In the event the monitor is not turned or connected at the time the Video DynaSync™ KVM switch is turned on, the switch directly connects the selected computer to the monitor’s EDID so it is still able to get the needed EDID data. ATEN also provides a non-volatile memory to save the EDID that it detected the last time it was used so that, when powered up the next time, the chances are the KVM switch will already have the correct monitor EDID – even if the monitor isn’t yet powered up. Since a suitable EDID is always present for the computers, there is no “seeking” time lost when switching among multiple computers, no blank screen, and no need to reboot computers just to get them to detect the optimum video value. It’s as though the computers each had a direct, full-time DDC connection to the user’s monitor EDID information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also find some IOGEAR KVMs that have the Video Dynasync feature, since ATEN owns IOGEAR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a couple KVMs that match your requirements, and can be had for under $100 (which is a lot less than £250):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ATEN CS84U][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4-Port PS/2-USB VGA KVM Switch&#xD;&#xA;* Superior video quality - 2048 x 1536; DDC2B&#xD;&#xA;* Video DynaSync™ - Exclusive ATEN technology eliminates bootup display problems and optimizes resolution when switching between ports&#xD;&#xA;* Console mouse port emulation/bypass feature supports most mouse drivers and multifunction mice&#xD;&#xA;* Complete keyboard emulation for error-free booting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[IOGEAR GCS1724][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4-Port VGA KVM&#xD;&#xA;* Video resolution: 2048x1536; DDC2B&#xD;&#xA;* USB or PS/2 mouse and keyboard peripherals&#xD;&#xA;* Video DynaSync™ optimizes display resolution and eliminates boot-up display problems&#xD;&#xA;* Console mouse port emulation/bypass feature supports most mouse drivers and multifunction mice&#xD;&#xA;* Complete keyboard emulation for error-free booting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/ext_data/us_en/whitepaper/VDS_White_Paper_100312.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs84u/#.WdSAlcZrwfI&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.iogear.com/product/GCS1724/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8180" RevisionGUID="43bc4e39-a1f0-44f6-bf93-328feb22b0f5" CreationDate="2017-10-04T06:52:22.373" UserId="2092" Text="I am currently thinking about a new graphics card, for gaming, also for graphics. I am willing to spend around 500 bucks. I saw on alternate.de that some 1080s and 1070s are in a similar price range and I wanted to know what would be better, a cheaper 1080 model or a 1070 model in the same price range.&#xD;&#xA;For example those two:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1330180&amp;page=1&amp;t=8406&#xD;&#xA;https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1280375&amp;page=1&amp;t=8406&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 1080 has some higher stats, especially more streaming processors. So I would assume that the 1080 is better. But other 1080s, which cost more are just slightly better, stat wise, so there has to be a reason why this one is cheaper than the others. Both have good reviews. The 1080 seems to be are bit louder, but that's not important to me. Overclocking is also not a priority.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what do you say would be better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8180" RevisionGUID="43bc4e39-a1f0-44f6-bf93-328feb22b0f5" CreationDate="2017-10-04T06:52:22.373" UserId="2092" Text="Cheap 1080 or expensive 1070?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8180" RevisionGUID="43bc4e39-a1f0-44f6-bf93-328feb22b0f5" CreationDate="2017-10-04T06:52:22.373" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25773" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="7fa21a8d-4b15-486e-a380-6cfd1db0626d" CreationDate="2017-10-04T07:12:31.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8183" RevisionGUID="fde345e2-0acc-47dc-96a6-69746ba004bb" CreationDate="2017-10-04T18:29:35.683" UserId="7088" Text="I want to setup my own router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel or AMD based&#xD;&#xA; - Low power consumption&#xD;&#xA; - min. 3x Gbit LAN + 1x GbitWAN Port&#xD;&#xA; - Wifi (min. 802.11n)&#xD;&#xA; - Optional: 4 SATA Ports for Backups&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware should be powerful enough to run an IPtables firewall, some smaller servers (XMPP, maybe Tor gateway, maybe VPN, small mail server, CUPS, ... but everything for only a few users)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best would be probably something based on Intel Atom or on a mobile CPU. I already searched a bit and selected this hardware for now:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ASRock D1800M (SoC with Intel Celeron J1800)&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Intel PRO/1000 PT, 4x 1000Base-T&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I&#xD;&#xA; - Available in Germany&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it's with 160€ a bit over budget, and I didn't include power supply and case yet. The main problem is, that I have to buy the network hardware seperately and I can't find a good board with at least the wired LAN integrated. Sure, there are options like Banana Pi R1/R2, but the reading in the community board isn't giving me so much trust and it's not x86 hardware. Supermicro has some board which satisfy most of my requirements, but as server hardware it is quite expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I guess, there are a few people out there who have similar expectations and their hardware already realized!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8183" RevisionGUID="fde345e2-0acc-47dc-96a6-69746ba004bb" CreationDate="2017-10-04T18:29:35.683" UserId="7088" Text="DIY 4-Port Gbit and Wifi router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8183" RevisionGUID="fde345e2-0acc-47dc-96a6-69746ba004bb" CreationDate="2017-10-04T18:29:35.683" UserId="7088" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8184" RevisionGUID="a0b82867-f3ce-4097-a8a6-51cd927f00f4" CreationDate="2017-10-05T06:25:22.573" UserId="7088" Text="Go for the 1080. I normally stick to the Power/Costs chart on https://www.computerbase.de/thema/grafikkarte/rangliste/ (for Germany) and normally it's a linear slope until a certain point, where you get less power for much more money, since they make their flagships more expensive for the high-end user.&#xD;&#xA;But at the moment, probably because of crypto-mining, even the cheaper models are more expensive, so that it's more or less a linear behaviour over the full chart. So at the moment, sticking to the 1080 would be more beneficial. However, in future I would go back to that chart and buy the most powerful graphics card, which is still on the linear slope of that chart." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25785" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="7e704f02-8a32-4df9-8de5-d25ae2e31697" CreationDate="2017-10-05T12:22:04.593" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://superuser.com/questions/1256465/dial-up-hardware-for-server-side" />
  <row Id="25786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="5c2a9ab7-c474-4a98-8d92-1721456ec801" CreationDate="2017-10-05T06:11:31.717" UserId="7099" UserDisplayName="Sharath" Text="This question is probably 20 years too late. I have a requirement where a bunch of analog phone lines will connect using dialup modem to my linux/windows server, in order to communicate. Just like we all did prior to broadband. This is for use in remote areas that don't have data connection. The termination on the server side will be ISDN E1. What is the modem hardware used by the ISPs to terminate the E1? I prefer not to demux the whole E1 into 30 analog lines and feed it to analog modems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will this work? https://www.dialogic.com/high-density-modems-e1-t1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="5c2a9ab7-c474-4a98-8d92-1721456ec801" CreationDate="2017-10-05T06:11:31.717" UserId="7099" UserDisplayName="Sharath" Text="Dial-up hardware for server side" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="5c2a9ab7-c474-4a98-8d92-1721456ec801" CreationDate="2017-10-05T06:11:31.717" UserId="7099" UserDisplayName="Sharath" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25793" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="fbf06320-7690-47ae-a810-94339a754575" CreationDate="2017-10-05T13:37:02.867" UserId="7093" Comment="Add tags following migration" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25794" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="fbf06320-7690-47ae-a810-94339a754575" CreationDate="2017-10-05T13:37:02.867" Comment="Proposed by 7093 approved by -1 edit id of 636" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25795" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8185" RevisionGUID="e1e82ab5-fadb-48ba-96d7-547468458949" CreationDate="2017-10-05T13:37:02.867" UserId="203" Comment="Add tags following migration" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8189" RevisionGUID="f8eedca4-97f9-4cc1-adcc-f5f4e4e92747" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:48:30.730" UserId="7095" Text="I am looking for an industrial-grade device that would allow a customer at an unmanned fuel site to push a button that would send an email to the IT department, in the event that there is an error code on the dispenser. The connection would be made available by a hot spot that is being used to process transactions. Any ideas?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8189" RevisionGUID="f8eedca4-97f9-4cc1-adcc-f5f4e4e92747" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:48:30.730" UserId="7095" Text="Looking for IoT device for an unmanned site so customers can send a support email" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8189" RevisionGUID="f8eedca4-97f9-4cc1-adcc-f5f4e4e92747" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:48:30.730" UserId="7095" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25800" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="f3c0bec2-c0da-42b0-9c59-4371b2190b99" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:57:20.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25801" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="ceb7424f-ade4-4a6c-b08e-341297038d2a" CreationDate="2017-10-05T21:57:31.987" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25802" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8190" RevisionGUID="2cd45bfe-9043-4e03-9242-2ccd167cface" CreationDate="2017-10-05T23:03:54.410" UserId="1459" Text="I found that LG has recently released a [22&quot; (21.5&quot; Diagonal) UltraFine™ 4K IPS LED Monitor][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-22MD4KA-B-4k-uhd-led-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8191" RevisionGUID="39a5180d-145c-4234-8acc-47b44eefc0a5" CreationDate="2017-10-06T05:50:23.637" UserId="7097" Text="You're in luck, ThinkPad 25 is going to have 7 row keyboard layout https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2017/10/lenovos-25th-anniversary-thinkpad-brings-back-the-keyboard-we-love/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="63bab578-2ddf-47a9-b850-7ad1efdf3add" CreationDate="2017-10-06T06:04:53.957" UserId="7098" Text="I am looking for a computer monitor. I am a software developer so it will be displaying a static picture almost all the time. I don't play games or play very rarely so I don't care about this. Besides this: Internet, sometimes some movie.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already had some reading so I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ca. 24 in&#xD;&#xA; - up to $500 but very happy to pay not more than $300&#xD;&#xA; - FullHD or WUXGA&#xD;&#xA; - not TN or VA&#xD;&#xA; - good viewing angle&#xD;&#xA; - good black representation&#xD;&#xA; - no bright too much and flicker-free-like function&#xD;&#xA; - anti-glare or similar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only candidate I have for now is  [Eizo FS EV2455][1] but it would be very nice if it were a bit cheaper...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.eizo.com/products/flexscan/ev2455/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25806" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="63bab578-2ddf-47a9-b850-7ad1efdf3add" CreationDate="2017-10-06T06:04:53.957" UserId="7098" Text="Monitor recommendation for programmer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25807" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="63bab578-2ddf-47a9-b850-7ad1efdf3add" CreationDate="2017-10-06T06:04:53.957" UserId="7098" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25808" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="f7e68b83-a01e-4db9-ac19-bc6cd0394582" CreationDate="2017-10-06T09:04:47.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25810" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8193" RevisionGUID="b4bba861-b4f5-4b12-900c-a8e7e327c98e" CreationDate="2017-10-06T14:45:20.423" UserId="5441" Text="I've got my eyes set on the Ryzen 5 1600x cpu. I'd like to install it in 19' rack, using 1U space. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What chassis and mother board do you recommend? Will I need to purchase a separate cooler? I wont be installing GPU, and 220W PSU is probably all I need. Budget is $500, but cheeper is preferred." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25811" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8193" RevisionGUID="b4bba861-b4f5-4b12-900c-a8e7e327c98e" CreationDate="2017-10-06T14:45:20.423" UserId="5441" Text="choosing motherboard and 1U server case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25812" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8193" RevisionGUID="b4bba861-b4f5-4b12-900c-a8e7e327c98e" CreationDate="2017-10-06T14:45:20.423" UserId="5441" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="029cb94c-ae21-44bf-8b32-1c1fea106cdb" CreationDate="2017-10-06T19:44:53.743" UserId="7102" Text="I use the AltGr key quite a lot and it hurts sometimes when I use it frequently. I think the spacebar is way to big. I understand that it should be easy to reach but you would have no problem using a spacebar that was 1/2 - 3/4 the normal size. I'm looking for a laptop where the spacebar is smaller so that the modifier keys are easier to access. I would also be interested in other keyboard layouts that makes modifier keys easier to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="029cb94c-ae21-44bf-8b32-1c1fea106cdb" CreationDate="2017-10-06T19:44:53.743" UserId="7102" Text="Laptop with smaller spacebar" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="029cb94c-ae21-44bf-8b32-1c1fea106cdb" CreationDate="2017-10-06T19:44:53.743" UserId="7102" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8195" RevisionGUID="56cc78a6-d42a-4ef5-9651-109bd1f679f1" CreationDate="2017-10-07T08:12:24.750" UserId="7103" Text="You don't want to break an E1 (or T1) into individual lines because you will loose the ability to negotiate speed above 33.6k. Make sure the device you get handles analog connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USR gear did not play fast with other brands (mainly rockwell). Look at the following names in addition to Ascend Max&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cisco 5200 series &#xD;&#xA;Portmaster&#xD;&#xA;Paton 2960&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8197" RevisionGUID="bc3874f4-c176-40b8-a8d4-5b36342fbe87" CreationDate="2017-10-07T13:10:20.270" UserId="1393" Text="In the US I was able to buy a Tracfone for $20 *(4G Android)* - it's locked to the mobile carrier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy some super cheap 4G Android phone in the UK, preferably that is unlocked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm talking about **£20 territory**, not £120 territory. Phone that will be used for projects, not for daily usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25821" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8197" RevisionGUID="bc3874f4-c176-40b8-a8d4-5b36342fbe87" CreationDate="2017-10-07T13:10:20.270" UserId="1393" Text="Cheapest unlocked 4G Android phone in the UK (October 2017)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25822" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8197" RevisionGUID="bc3874f4-c176-40b8-a8d4-5b36342fbe87" CreationDate="2017-10-07T13:10:20.270" UserId="1393" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8199" RevisionGUID="76ae9d9c-7f0f-4036-ac40-911a065ea526" CreationDate="2017-10-07T16:34:42.143" UserId="6448" Text="Chromecast would fit the description.&#xA;I've gotten them for my non-technical parents and they use it all the time.&#xA;It's inexpensive and easy to 'cast' webpages or videos, etc from a phone/tablet to the device.&#xA;&#xA;I personally built a HTPC/NAS device. But that's a little overkill for most needs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8200" RevisionGUID="38f8b177-e690-4b0e-a1ff-c0ec7b71c300" CreationDate="2017-10-07T16:42:32.247" UserId="6448" Text="I've been using this [BenQ GW2765HT&#xA;][1] monitor for awhile now and love it. It's a 27 inch 1440p display that's at the sweet spot of size and resolution and price (at the moment).&#xA;&#xA;They have a 24&quot; model that I'd assume is just as capable in the smaller size [BenQ GW2480][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16824014383&#xA;  [2]: https://m.newegg.com/products/24-014-466?iscoz=true" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25831" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8052" RevisionGUID="c119b7a5-66d4-49ae-a17f-8405be8ac034" CreationDate="2017-10-07T20:10:39.723" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25832" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="7556c3ae-ca1d-4281-bd34-c5d25f670ec1" CreationDate="2017-10-07T21:10:32.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25833" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="34508e63-2750-4ee3-9549-afb2fb610509" CreationDate="2017-10-07T22:11:07.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8203" RevisionGUID="70dc21af-b1c8-408d-9b21-90cedaaec5ca" CreationDate="2017-10-08T09:26:18.013" UserId="7110" Text="I have the following hardware configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PSU: Corsair HX1200i&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Inter Core i7-6800K 3.4 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: Corsair Vengeance (DDR4) 32GB, 2666MHz&#xD;&#xA;    SSD: M.2 Samsung 960 500 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH X99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, I wonder, would it be simple to extend this system with 1 extra 1080Ti GPU? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I know, the motherboard should be capable to provide x16 lanes for both GPUs. Though probably I'll need another PSU, and I am not sure about CPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25835" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8203" RevisionGUID="70dc21af-b1c8-408d-9b21-90cedaaec5ca" CreationDate="2017-10-08T09:26:18.013" UserId="7110" Text="2xGPU configuration upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25836" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8203" RevisionGUID="70dc21af-b1c8-408d-9b21-90cedaaec5ca" CreationDate="2017-10-08T09:26:18.013" UserId="7110" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8203" RevisionGUID="f670bfbf-8851-4b12-a697-da7e07fa369c" CreationDate="2017-10-08T10:02:46.173" UserId="7110" Comment="Have forgotten to list GPU" Text="I have the following hardware configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    PSU: Corsair HX1200i&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Inter Core i7-6800K 3.4 MHz&#xD;&#xA;    GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1080Ti (Pascal)&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: Corsair Vengeance (DDR4) 32GB, 2666MHz&#xD;&#xA;    SSD: M.2 Samsung 960 500 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH X99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, I wonder, would it be simple to extend this system with 1 extra 1080Ti GPU? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I know, the motherboard should be capable to provide x16 lanes for both GPUs. Though probably I'll need another PSU, and I am not sure about CPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25841" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="bf8cab07-9a15-4332-afd7-7c1b7cdcdf3d" CreationDate="2017-10-08T15:16:25.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8205" RevisionGUID="9907a8a2-e6eb-4dde-b6e6-cc6da9c9340d" CreationDate="2017-10-09T03:51:15.033" UserId="7112" Text="I'm quite new to pc building. I'd like to seek advises about building a computer which can support up to 3 or 4 monitors, and as cheap as possible.&#xD;&#xA;I went to few pc shops, some recommend me to get GTX 1050ti while others recommend me to get GTX1060. So i'm confused now. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purpose of the computer  &#xD;&#xA; - Monitor 1 for main screen controls  &#xD;&#xA; - Monitor 2 to display videos or image etc  &#xD;&#xA; - Monitor 3 to display theme text or title  &#xD;&#xA; - Monitor 4 backup  &#xD;&#xA;*Display in HD (1080).* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirement  &#xD;&#xA; - Build based on Intel Processor  &#xD;&#xA; - Both Nvidia and AMD graphic are acceptable as long as it can support the function mentioned above (as well as other parts; Motherboard, ram etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please let me know if you need further details. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25848" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8205" RevisionGUID="9907a8a2-e6eb-4dde-b6e6-cc6da9c9340d" CreationDate="2017-10-09T03:51:15.033" UserId="7112" Text="Desktop build for 3 or 4 monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25849" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8205" RevisionGUID="9907a8a2-e6eb-4dde-b6e6-cc6da9c9340d" CreationDate="2017-10-09T03:51:15.033" UserId="7112" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25850" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8205" RevisionGUID="b0ae5629-afe6-4ee9-9603-1417dcd26ddc" CreationDate="2017-10-09T04:03:26.933" UserId="7112" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25851" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="d24cae5e-b53e-44d9-8256-0c7cffb38c17" CreationDate="2017-10-09T14:29:30.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8206" RevisionGUID="c011d2aa-de99-4c53-bdc9-f51f5a37573f" CreationDate="2017-10-09T18:15:11.463" UserId="7113" Text="Your power supply is plenty. It can supply up to 1200 watts and your whole system will definitely not pull more than that, even with two graphics cards. Nvidia recommendation for GTX 1080 Ti is 600W PSU for the whole system, when using 1 card. You can also check that with some online calculators, for example this one: http://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for PCI Express lanes, I wouldn't worry about the lack of x16 lanes. Your CPU has 28 lanes, which means one of the cards will be running at 16x and other one at 8x (due to PCI Express specification), if you do not have any other devices that take up PCI Express lanes. Benchmarks and tests have been done by many tech reviewers/magazines, a GPU running at 8x will not decrease your performance in any noticeable way (up to 1-2 FPS). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25854" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="5656" RevisionGUID="2969ef52-d0f5-41ed-b74f-2a52f20daa26" CreationDate="2017-10-09T18:54:36.773" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25858" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="6ab87fa4-e639-4f5a-9216-876e97fbdda7" CreationDate="2017-10-10T10:42:06.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8207" RevisionGUID="5d639ad4-af75-44df-80f7-5e495fe33f28" CreationDate="2017-10-10T11:07:53.453" UserId="7116" Text="I have a big desktop that needs to stay in a room next door to mine. Not that far but of course I cannot run a monitor cable from the desktop to my desk. So my question is simple:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any technology that allows me to wireless connect my computer monitor to my away desktop? Something link bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there are bluetooth keyboard and mouse. The other problem is: I already have a monitor so it would have to be some kind of adapter to stream the display signal from my away desktop to my desk monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does that exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8207" RevisionGUID="5d639ad4-af75-44df-80f7-5e495fe33f28" CreationDate="2017-10-10T11:07:53.453" UserId="7116" Text="Computer is far away from my desk: Is it possible to wireless connect a display monitor to it? How?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8207" RevisionGUID="5d639ad4-af75-44df-80f7-5e495fe33f28" CreationDate="2017-10-10T11:07:53.453" UserId="7116" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8208" RevisionGUID="09dab767-387e-490f-ba1c-2c6ca2abd80f" CreationDate="2017-10-10T12:07:39.303" UserId="7117" Text="You can use [KVM over IP][1] for that purpose. You just need to connect your PC and your desk with ethernet cable. It's not so cheap and has some limitations for screen resolution, but maybe it can solve your problem. You can find examples of this devices [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/kvm-over-ip-switches/?f26%5B%5D=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8208" RevisionGUID="bbe543da-01c0-4ba2-bcd3-f85210f13822" CreationDate="2017-10-10T12:18:46.623" UserId="7117" Comment="adds information about wireless hdmi extender" Text="You can use [KVM over IP][1] for that purpose. You just need to connect your PC and your desk with ethernet cable. It's not so cheap and has some limitations for screen resolution, but maybe it can solve your problem. You can find examples of this devices [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is another wireless option [Wireless Extender for HDMI][3].&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/kvm-over-ip-switches/?f26%5B%5D=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://Wireless%20Extender%20for%20HDMI&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8p6o.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25866" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="c33913fd-e319-4dd5-a34c-bf0d251b3b95" CreationDate="2017-10-11T03:55:35.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25867" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8209" RevisionGUID="22350c2e-4e1a-464b-9bec-46ca9d8e6785" CreationDate="2017-10-11T05:05:10.280" UserId="7121" Text="Are there any device that exist that can completely block any loud noise in public places? I intend to use it in public places (i.e. coffee shop, park, bar) so I can work with little or without any distraction. Noise can range from people talking, cars driving by to jackhammer that is used in a nearby construction. I've considered anti noise ear plugs, noise isolation earphones and noise cancelling headphones but just seem to just lessen the noise but not completely block it. Are there any viable solution that exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25868" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8209" RevisionGUID="22350c2e-4e1a-464b-9bec-46ca9d8e6785" CreationDate="2017-10-11T05:05:10.280" UserId="7121" Text="headphone or earphone that can completely block any noise" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25869" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8209" RevisionGUID="22350c2e-4e1a-464b-9bec-46ca9d8e6785" CreationDate="2017-10-11T05:05:10.280" UserId="7121" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8212" RevisionGUID="5c124f68-be73-4d1b-bef3-831331ba2738" CreationDate="2017-10-11T07:51:30.780" UserId="5132" Text="Part of a project I want to scan the GSM signal on a specific surface with an iPhone (specifically iPhone SE). I consider that a drone could do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be the best drone for this operation: to lift an iPhone SE as high as possible (about 30 meters would be fine)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any drone which is lighter than 500 grams and would be able to do what I want (I'd prefer &lt;0.5Kg, because the legal stuff would be simpler)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any better device than a drone to scan the GSM signal in different points of my garden (different heights too)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25875" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8212" RevisionGUID="5c124f68-be73-4d1b-bef3-831331ba2738" CreationDate="2017-10-11T07:51:30.780" UserId="5132" Text="Drone which lifts an iPhone in the air" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25876" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8212" RevisionGUID="5c124f68-be73-4d1b-bef3-831331ba2738" CreationDate="2017-10-11T07:51:30.780" UserId="5132" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8213" RevisionGUID="847bef5c-1ba9-4e96-b268-725fe25c7eeb" CreationDate="2017-10-11T11:56:47.623" UserId="7122" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I am doing some project in which we need to convert HDMI IN to Ethernet and Ethernet to HDMI OUT. Please suggest any ic or any way by which I can implement this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards, Harsh Sharma 9654152586&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25878" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8213" RevisionGUID="847bef5c-1ba9-4e96-b268-725fe25c7eeb" CreationDate="2017-10-11T11:56:47.623" UserId="7122" Text="HDMI to Ethernet and vice versa" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25879" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8213" RevisionGUID="847bef5c-1ba9-4e96-b268-725fe25c7eeb" CreationDate="2017-10-11T11:56:47.623" UserId="7122" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8214" RevisionGUID="50e3c4f7-ec18-46bd-b4ce-cc88477d39ca" CreationDate="2017-10-11T14:35:57.300" UserId="6089" Text="A quick search using The Google for &quot;HDMI over ethernet&quot; resulted in many entries. [One of them][1] is relatively low priced, US$15.99 and has 30 meter distance capability. I note that the device requires a pair of ethernet cables, perhaps due to the volume of data being transmitted for real-time video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDMI over ethernet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the search returned many entries and your search may provide more suitable devices than this one item.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Extender-CAT5e-Cable-support/dp/B003LZA95W&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jiPd.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25881" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7857" RevisionGUID="a0e32ce5-ca69-4b4a-8294-730353f3d3fb" CreationDate="2017-10-11T15:01:33.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25882" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="db7ec0b2-04d2-4ae2-b203-7f12316ace51" CreationDate="2017-10-11T18:04:39.730" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25883" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="375abb9d-ef14-487f-8683-ec98ca29635b" CreationDate="2017-10-11T19:07:20.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="bfbf73e3-9c3f-4039-a659-4d8a0cfd743f" CreationDate="2017-10-11T19:58:24.897" UserId="2395" Text="I am looking for a switch which has at least one port at the back and some 4-5 ports at the front.&#xD;&#xA;Most switches I found either had all ports in the back, with leds on the front. &#xD;&#xA;The other ones had all ports at the front with power being the only thing that is on the backside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 Gbps would be idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this [switch][1], but for some unknown reason they have the power connector at the side and only 100 Mbps ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003CLIOMU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25885" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="bfbf73e3-9c3f-4039-a659-4d8a0cfd743f" CreationDate="2017-10-11T19:58:24.897" UserId="2395" Text="Ethernet switch with ports at the front and back" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25886" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="bfbf73e3-9c3f-4039-a659-4d8a0cfd743f" CreationDate="2017-10-11T19:58:24.897" UserId="2395" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8216" RevisionGUID="70da97f0-6ff3-4bf5-9af6-f76e07e08d3f" CreationDate="2017-10-11T20:05:44.123" UserId="2395" Text="Sierra Wireless MC7455 (mPCIe) or EM7455 (m.2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This devices can also change the USB PID if you run into whitelist issues. Just lookup which USB PID is supported and change it with an AT-command." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="841a2db6-d554-453a-aca7-5fe2b1733e47" CreationDate="2017-10-11T21:50:27.500" UserId="4618" Comment="I learned the technical term for the thing I want is &quot;PSE&quot; (Power Sourcing Equipment), as distinct from POE PD (the Powered Device)" Text="We have a telecommuting employee who will be using an 802.3af-compliant IP phone at her desk, but she doesn't sit close to her router. In the past, we gave these types of employees a 802.3af POE injector and had them plug the other end into the LAN port on their laptop, and share the laptop's Wi-Fi connection. This works, but it isn't ideal because (1) the phone only works if the computer is on, and (2) when Windows 10 installs updates it sometimes messes up the connection and we have to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would love to use a wireless PSE like Ubiquiti's [AirGateway](https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-AIRGATEWAY-Wireless-access-802-11/dp/B00HXT84DG/) with [this injector](https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-POE-24-12W-External-Injector/dp/B00HXT8LPW) to provide a reliable Wi-Fi connection and POE to the phone in one brick (they snap together, so it looks like one brick to the end user). I actually have a spare one of these at home that I have configured as a bridge; they're just really reliable. However, none of Ubiquiti's stuff is 802.3af-compliant, so it won't power the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, has anyone else made a 802.3af-compliant PSE that can be configured as a wireless bridge?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I could use my usual 802.3af injector and connect it to a range extender that includes an Ethernet port like [this one](https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW), and that's probably what I'll do if I can't find a single-brick solution. This question is just looking at single-brick solutions for aesthetic reasons: the home users don't want a lot of clutter and extra devices just to get a phone to work. So the best answer here is the one that provides POE and WiFi access to the phone with the least amount of clutter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25889" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5897" RevisionGUID="841a2db6-d554-453a-aca7-5fe2b1733e47" CreationDate="2017-10-11T21:50:27.500" UserId="4618" Comment="I learned the technical term for the thing I want is &quot;PSE&quot; (Power Sourcing Equipment), as distinct from POE PD (the Powered Device)" Text="Wireless Client Bridge and POE PSE in one brick" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25890" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="8b616f08-b993-4714-a259-6276c88929dd" CreationDate="2017-10-11T22:07:20.133" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25896" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8213" RevisionGUID="838d67df-ec17-4981-a259-c18541458b1a" CreationDate="2017-10-12T04:04:35.487" UserId="5001" Comment="remove personally identifiable informaiton" Text="I am doing some project in which we need to convert HDMI IN to Ethernet and Ethernet to HDMI OUT. Please suggest any ic or any way by which I can implement this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25897" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8213" RevisionGUID="838d67df-ec17-4981-a259-c18541458b1a" CreationDate="2017-10-12T04:04:35.487" Comment="Proposed by 5001 approved by 203, 7122 edit id of 637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25898" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="aa679d1a-5e99-4ecf-b5fe-3c659144cec2" CreationDate="2017-10-12T10:16:22.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="ec24bdd7-5200-4e88-b3fd-22015a0a58dd" CreationDate="2017-10-12T11:45:48.603" UserId="7131" Text="I’m looking for a router that can create a new wifi-network “B” with its own SSID and password but the router gains its internet access by connecting to another existing wifi-network “A” ***simultaneously***.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason for this is because we don’t want to hand out the password to network “A”, and network “B” won’t be online at all times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that the router should be able to handle at least 50 connected client devices at any time (but they all won’t be downloading stuff simultaneously, only be connected to the router). Also its 5 GHz coverage should have good range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you give me preferably many product recommendations? And what is the capability that I described first called?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="ec24bdd7-5200-4e88-b3fd-22015a0a58dd" CreationDate="2017-10-12T11:45:48.603" UserId="7131" Text="Router that can connect to a wifi network and create a new wifi network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="ec24bdd7-5200-4e88-b3fd-22015a0a58dd" CreationDate="2017-10-12T11:45:48.603" UserId="7131" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8220" RevisionGUID="dcc57a19-6216-4640-9619-dd02efa82a61" CreationDate="2017-10-12T14:28:23.310" UserId="1877" Text="My friend wanted to replace the cheapo router from Verizon with a good one she had previously bought, asked me to look at it for her. Turns out though, the ones from Verizon are all wired in to the modem via coaxial cable, whereas her good router is a standard CAT5 wire in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any experience with coax-to-CAT5 converters, and could recommend brands and/or models that might be good, or ones that should be avoided?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25908" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8220" RevisionGUID="dcc57a19-6216-4640-9619-dd02efa82a61" CreationDate="2017-10-12T14:28:23.310" UserId="1877" Text="Coax to CAT5 Converter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25909" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8220" RevisionGUID="dcc57a19-6216-4640-9619-dd02efa82a61" CreationDate="2017-10-12T14:28:23.310" UserId="1877" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8221" RevisionGUID="f8a715ac-9301-4239-b47a-64da0ba43c42" CreationDate="2017-10-12T15:36:29.277" UserId="6089" Text="You may have a slight misunderstanding of the equipment. Without seeing specific model information, this is an educated guess, but likely correct. The Verizon equipment is a cable modem/router combination if there is coaxial input and RJ-45 connectors for equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The signals from the provider are transported on RF (television/radio type) signals, received by the modem/router and converted to data, then sent to the RJ-45 via internal router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any &quot;converter&quot; you find will be a cable modem, with or without the router portion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the existing modem/router has four RJ-45 ports, you can connect your &quot;good one&quot; to one of those ports and make use of its features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25911" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8222" RevisionGUID="62d42f8b-6419-4df6-a14e-22abdaa1e596" CreationDate="2017-10-12T16:33:13.097" UserId="4618" Text="#MoCA Adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming your friend is using Verizon FiOS, the &quot;modem&quot; you're talking about is an Optical Network Terminal (ONT), and it connects to the Verizon router via MoCA. There's a good summary [here](http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077) about the various router configurations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you're describing sounds most like option 10 on that page, so you would need a single MoCA adapter like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/). [This reviewer](https://www.amazon.com/review/R4T1T06ITXI2P/) indicated they were able to replace their Verizon FiOS router with this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't use the cheaper DECA adapters, as they use a different standard for sending Ethernet over coax and probably won't be able to communicate with the ONT." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25912" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="8222" RevisionGUID="c220262b-a5ca-4a0e-b2d7-27cd3b353382" CreationDate="2017-10-12T16:45:59.017" UserId="4618" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4618,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;browly&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8222" RevisionGUID="c3005f3f-c2b4-4614-8de5-3fafed3837fe" CreationDate="2017-10-12T16:53:21.463" UserId="4618" Comment="Corrected that the device must support MoCA WAN and not just MoCA LAN." Text="#MoCA WAN Bridge&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming your friend is using Verizon FiOS, the &quot;modem&quot; you're talking about is an Optical Network Terminal (ONT), and it connects to the Verizon router via MoCA WAN (not to be confused with MoCA LAN). There's a good summary [here](http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077) about the various router configurations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you're describing sounds most like option 10 on that page, so you would need a single MoCA WAN bridge like [the D-Link DXN-221](https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DXN-221-MoCa-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B0024FAQL2/). [This reviewer](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2HNGA6SCZC5W1/) indicated they were able to replace their Verizon FiOS router with this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Most MoCA adapters are LAN only and won't work for the WAN connection from the router to the ONT.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since a MoCA WAN bridge is so expensive/hard to find, I recommend you stick with fred_dot_u's suggestion and just use the Verizon router as the bridge to the router." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25914" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="8222" RevisionGUID="69577cad-8c6b-450a-b566-f6327a052ced" CreationDate="2017-10-12T16:53:39.987" UserId="4618" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:4618,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;browly&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="25915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8223" RevisionGUID="27e39e64-ad70-40f7-ba4f-f69675bb2723" CreationDate="2017-10-12T17:47:35.133" UserId="4618" Text="#Kyocera's &quot;Dura&quot; line of phones and Casio's &quot;G'zOne&quot; line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - frequently ~$100 new and ~$20 used.&#xD;&#xA; - Waterproof and &quot;military grade&quot; specifications for impact resistance and dust resistance.&#xD;&#xA; - Easily go for a whole week on a single charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to find these unlocked; not sure how Australia's mobile network works" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8223" RevisionGUID="bd539b57-d7e7-4059-90c6-bda8def06134" CreationDate="2017-10-12T17:56:03.110" UserId="4618" Comment="Added a link to a GSM version of the phone." Text="#Kyocera's &quot;Dura&quot; line of phones and Casio's &quot;G'zOne&quot; line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - frequently ~$100 new and ~$20 used.&#xD;&#xA; - Waterproof and &quot;military grade&quot; specifications for impact resistance and dust resistance.&#xD;&#xA; - Easily go for a whole week on a single charge.&#xD;&#xA; - Easy to find these unlocked; not sure how Australia's mobile network works, but I think any [GSM phone](https://www.amazon.com/Kyocera-DuraXE-E4710-Black-Unlocked/dp/B01CDJ7I5K/) will work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25917" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="38a32013-3431-469c-99d2-8d520f433251" CreationDate="2017-10-12T19:24:27.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="23aad819-0cce-4c65-9860-1cbb389c4587" CreationDate="2017-10-14T19:03:13.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8226" RevisionGUID="d3f3bc47-2ea7-465f-9003-089f589bf868" CreationDate="2017-10-14T19:15:49.247" UserId="7136" Text="You could also consider custom-molded in-ears. As they’re precisely fitted for your ears alone, not only they block out noise more effectively, they can also be extremely comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;If you’re okay with deep insertion in-ears, you could check out the Etymotic ER4 as well. Or, consider foam eartips for your earphones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25930" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8076" RevisionGUID="1986589a-094e-4ffb-a7aa-2b6802db0c7f" CreationDate="2017-10-14T20:03:13.023" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25931" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6236" RevisionGUID="af44f6bd-4d4b-411f-bfa0-8844915db856" CreationDate="2017-10-15T03:03:13.547" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25935" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="dec7f68a-57ef-4628-be89-eade6e488b06" CreationDate="2017-10-15T11:09:03.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25937" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="e2cfd3f2-732c-47d3-a002-42c866344bf7" CreationDate="2017-10-15T17:13:46.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8229" RevisionGUID="5d5832de-1488-4970-9f48-3dc6c86af79f" CreationDate="2017-10-15T18:58:52.817" UserId="7139" Text="I need a way to switch between my gaming computer and my work laptop but still be able to use both my monitors and wireless keyboard/mouse. Does anyone have any suggestions on a KVM switcher for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25939" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8229" RevisionGUID="5d5832de-1488-4970-9f48-3dc6c86af79f" CreationDate="2017-10-15T18:58:52.817" UserId="7139" Text="2 computers, 2 monitors to extend displays, and a wireless keyboard and mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25940" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8229" RevisionGUID="5d5832de-1488-4970-9f48-3dc6c86af79f" CreationDate="2017-10-15T18:58:52.817" UserId="7139" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8128" RevisionGUID="ce052084-b139-4b42-9bc0-72887b2049f0" CreationDate="2017-10-15T20:16:07.800" UserId="7033" Comment="add that additionally customs duty may need to be paid" Text="**Xiaomi Redmi Note 4** (150$ with free shipping to the USA, no idea about possibly additional customs duty) and other Xiaomi devices. Note that some other Xiaomi devices are not supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated (see question for meaning) good, but needs executable from vendor for Windows (bad). I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported. This is a recent device, as opposed to most devices supported by LinageOS which are older.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wileyfox Swift** or the AFAIK worse Wileyfox Storm, but not newer devices (i.e. not Swift 2 or similar) from Wileyfox as they stopped their upstream support for LinageOS. Unlocking rated best with `fastboot oem unlock`. It has an SD card slot, supports 10 touch points, 2 SIM card slots. They are not manufactured any more so you can only buy them from resellers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Huawei Honor 5X** and other Huawei devices. Note that newer Huawei devices are not yet supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good with secret used with `fastboot oem unlock SecretHere`. I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably more devices which fit your requirements, especially when buying older ones. Some phones can not be found on e.g. Amazon, but are much easier to come by from AliExpress, though you may need to additionally pay customs duty. [LinageOS has a list with devices that they officially support.][1] The installation instructions from LinageOS explain in more detail what steps are needed to unlock each device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of your requirement for an SD card slot the following ones do not qualify which otherwise would: Google branded phones which are unlocking rated best, but which also cost much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8230" RevisionGUID="5aa5e8f7-f61c-4eb0-802c-9b454d03d825" CreationDate="2017-10-15T22:30:30.747" UserId="7140" Text="There is a software and a hardware solution. &#xA;&#xA;Symless is an affordable solution. And works more consistently than the free options out there. &#xA;&#xA;You could rig up a USB splitter, but that could be too finicky to recommend without testing. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25944" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8231" RevisionGUID="dd7fbcc3-60ce-4eb9-bd8b-cbb18abcbbc2" CreationDate="2017-10-16T07:57:50.873" UserId="7141" Text="If you don't mind it not being android the AEG M1220 is £11.95 and I think it has 4G. For android phones you're looking at about £50 and they don't even have 4G. If it's for projects look for older phones with broken screens/buttons on eBay as they'll likely be much cheaper since they cannot be used well as a phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="379cb5f0-3dfc-4c47-b0cd-944f3c482c9f" CreationDate="2017-10-16T13:03:17.940" UserId="7143" Text="For my work I am professionally editing videos. Right now I am using a mac book pro but I find it very slow and it's not fitting my workflow anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to change my hardware and to buy a personal computer (windows) and not a notebook. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need basically is a machin that will allow me to mainly work on graphics and video editing. My computer needs to be fast in the rendering operations, analyze frame by frame my video and compose it back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am working on raw files CinemaDNG (lossless formats), and I need a pc that can manage this huge amount of data. Each frame size is from 15 to 20 mega and we have 25 fps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Should I focus on CPU performance/graphical card/RAM/other?&#xD;&#xA; - Do you have any suggestion on which computer could fit my needs right now?&#xD;&#xA; - Do you think would be better to buy a PC or to build one from scratch?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the record I already looked on the internet and I clearly cannot spend 18k for a PC so I would love to have suggestions way more affordable than this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="379cb5f0-3dfc-4c47-b0cd-944f3c482c9f" CreationDate="2017-10-16T13:03:17.940" UserId="7143" Text="PC suggestion for Video editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="379cb5f0-3dfc-4c47-b0cd-944f3c482c9f" CreationDate="2017-10-16T13:03:17.940" UserId="7143" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;cpu&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25952" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="1a95e385-f574-4002-8171-9079639cf809" CreationDate="2017-10-16T17:50:22.443" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off-topic questions and added info from comment" Text="For work, I professionally edit videos. Right now I am using a Mac Book Pro, but I find it very slow and it's not fitting my workflow anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to change my hardware and buy a Windows desktop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need basically is a machine that will allow me to work on graphics and video editing. My computer needs to be fast in the rendering operations, analyze my video frame by frame and to compose it back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am working on raw files CinemaDNG (lossless formats), and I need a pc that can manage this huge amount of data. Each frame size is from 15 to 20 mega and we have 25 fps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's possible, I would like to spend less than 2k and I am mostly using AdobePremiere, Adobe After Effects and DavinciResolve&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What computer will fit my needs right now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25953" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="1a95e385-f574-4002-8171-9079639cf809" CreationDate="2017-10-16T17:50:22.443" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off-topic questions and added info from comment" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8234" RevisionGUID="37be6eea-f046-4bcd-b60a-dfd62e12c32e" CreationDate="2017-10-16T18:54:12.643" UserDisplayName="user7144" Text="I already googled bit around but didn't find something that really fits my expectations... My budget is around $100 and my requirements would be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0 Port(s)&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit Ethernet (min)&#xD;&#xA; - SSD and / or microSD slot&#xD;&#xA; - at least 1 GB RAM &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and would be mainly used for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Media Server / LMS&#xD;&#xA;  - Owncloud&#xD;&#xA;  - Internal Website&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Do you know any single-board computers that would fit these requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm confused why the most recent versions of Raspberry Pi and similars only have 512 MB of RAM. Is that really enough?? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8234" RevisionGUID="37be6eea-f046-4bcd-b60a-dfd62e12c32e" CreationDate="2017-10-16T18:54:12.643" UserDisplayName="user7144" Text="Searching Single-board computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8234" RevisionGUID="37be6eea-f046-4bcd-b60a-dfd62e12c32e" CreationDate="2017-10-16T18:54:12.643" UserDisplayName="user7144" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8235" RevisionGUID="f9c944df-cb6f-442e-bcc4-36c26fdb5915" CreationDate="2017-10-16T19:11:45.510" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="Just one [example][1]: **[The Orange Pi Plus][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabit ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - 2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - SATA 2.0 interface&#xD;&#xA; - TF card slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't have USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;What can I do with Orange Pi Plus2?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Build…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    A computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    A wireless server&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   Games&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   Music and sounds&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   HD video&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   A speaker&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   Android&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   Scratch&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;   Pretty much anything else, because Orange Pi Plus2 is open source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Who’s it for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Orange Pi Plus2 is for anyone who wants to start creating with technology – not just consuming it. It's a simple, fun, useful tool that you can use to start taking control of the world around you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepiplus2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25958" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8236" RevisionGUID="9a29c1b9-e5fc-4c18-948f-d14b007e4fec" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:21:32.477" UserId="5339" Text="A Network Attached Storage (NAS) is something you may be interested in. There are several plug and play products available from companies such as Synology, Western Digital, etc. As well, there are a couple options for DIY'ers such as [Freenas][1], Unraid, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Freenas machine running in our home that I am able to access over the network, through any of our devices as well as remotely. As well, I've set up the computers in our home to back up to this NAS often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for a machine to run Freenas is pretty reasonable. Looking at Freenas's website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Multicore 64-bit processor (Intel strongly recommended)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB Boot Drive (USB Flash Drive suffices) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - At least 1 direct attached disk (Hardware RAID **strongly** discouraged)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - One physical network port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've ran both Intel and AMD Freenas machines and honestly haven't noticed a difference (I'm sure there is, but as a user, I haven't seen a difference in my tasks). It is encouraged to use hard drives rated for NAS (WD Red, Seagate Ironwolf, etc.) as the manufacture warranty's for such use. I've used spare hard drives that I've had laying around for my personal machines and haven't had issues so far. I am in the process of saving up for WD Red drives to replace my current set up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There may be better options that are out there, but for me and my use-cases, Freenas has been perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.freenas.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25959" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8236" RevisionGUID="3ec8f592-69b0-4d4c-9184-e21a393515c8" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:29:40.907" UserId="5339" Comment="Elaborating more on certain items." Text="A Network Attached Storage (NAS) is something you may be interested in. There are several plug and play products available from companies such as Synology, Western Digital, etc. As well, there are a couple options for DIY'ers such as [Freenas][1], Unraid, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Freenas machine that I built running in our home that I am able to access over the network, through any of our devices as well as remotely. As well, I've set up the computers in our home to back up to this NAS often. This is made up of spare computer hardware that I had laying around, that I've been slowly upgrading and replacing. I chose to house it in an Antec P100 case (plenty of hard drive trays, quiet, and plenty of fan / cooler mounting options).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for a machine to run Freenas is pretty reasonable. Looking at Freenas's website:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Multicore 64-bit processor (Intel strongly recommended)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB Boot Drive (USB Flash Drive suffices) &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - At least 1 direct attached disk (Hardware RAID **strongly** discouraged)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - One physical network port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've ran both Intel and AMD Freenas machines and honestly haven't noticed a difference (I'm sure there is, but as a user, I haven't seen a difference in my tasks). It is encouraged to use hard drives rated for NAS (WD Red, Seagate Ironwolf, etc.) as the manufacture warranty's for such use. I've used spare hard drives that I've had laying around for my personal machines and haven't had issues so far. I am in the process of saving up for WD Red drives to replace my current set of drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There may be better options that are out there, but for me and my use-cases, Freenas has been perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.freenas.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8237" RevisionGUID="6a6de33b-cd99-4671-8d0f-df3b7c1ed1a4" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:49:08.333" UserId="5339" Text="Black Box has a [5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch][1] with support for Power of Ethernet, however it does cost a pretty penny. Which is closer to what you probably want, with the exception of the power outlet sharing the same side as the 4 port out (but hey, at least it's not on the side!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.blackbox.com/en-us/store/Detail.aspx/5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch-PoE/LPB1205A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8238" RevisionGUID="623646f8-b298-4d1b-82a4-11c31e9af717" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:53:23.800" UserId="7141" Text="It's my birthday coming up and I'm hoping for some money to put towards my gaming pc build.&#xA;The parts of the build that are important to my question are:&#xA;i5 2500 + any eBay 1155 mobo&#xA;8gb ddr3 (4gb now an extra 4gb later)&#xA;GTX 1050ti 4gb&#xA;&#xA;Right now I'm on a Pentium D (one of the higher clocked ones not that it matters) and a quadro fx1700 (modern Intel HD are better) with 4gb ram. &#xA;&#xA;So my question is this, the CPU and mobo with a new PSU and 4gb ram would be £150 roughly (I have a case and hard drive) and the 1050ti would be the same price. Would I get more performance gain by getting everything but the GPU now or by putting the GPU with my Pentium D? Eventually I'll have the i5 paired with the 1050ti but I can't afford it all at once.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Thanks&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25962" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8238" RevisionGUID="623646f8-b298-4d1b-82a4-11c31e9af717" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:53:23.800" UserId="7141" Text="What to upgrade first from an ancient system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25963" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8238" RevisionGUID="623646f8-b298-4d1b-82a4-11c31e9af717" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:53:23.800" UserId="7141" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8239" RevisionGUID="5598579a-4bd1-445d-aef9-4083a18cabd1" CreationDate="2017-10-16T23:19:19.167" UserId="7145" Text="I am trying to find a KVM matrix switch to switch two computers with two monitors each between two sets of monitors and keyboards. This should be controllable by software. It should also be possible to control one PC from both sets of mouse and keyboard if possible. Display port or hdmi would be an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? I only find huge devices which are overpriced for this application or video signal switching only." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25965" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8239" RevisionGUID="5598579a-4bd1-445d-aef9-4083a18cabd1" CreationDate="2017-10-16T23:19:19.167" UserId="7145" Text="What KVM matrix switch to buy for 2 computers and 2 monitors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25966" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8239" RevisionGUID="5598579a-4bd1-445d-aef9-4083a18cabd1" CreationDate="2017-10-16T23:19:19.167" UserId="7145" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8240" RevisionGUID="17c5510e-a820-4ad0-9bec-5ae55e826fd3" CreationDate="2017-10-16T23:42:10.853" UserId="7146" Text="You should be thinking long-term here.  In your cirumstances it's generally better to put your money into a new motherboard/CPU first (video card abilities evolve much faster than motherboard slots change).  But YMMV.  &#xD;&#xA;There's a &quot;trap&quot; if you replace the video card first: When you get around to replacing the motherboard you could end up wanting to (or have to) upgrade the video card at the same time.  Not to mention that buying the video card first prevents you from profiting from any video card advances (or price decreases) in the meantime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25968" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="925cc46e-97e5-40da-a3ae-05b606572186" CreationDate="2017-10-17T02:43:09.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="463322ad-c847-4a5a-9f5d-ac24b0af3356" CreationDate="2017-10-17T18:28:02.523" UserId="1057" Text="I am looking at doing a NAS build with Rysen 3 or 5.  I read that Rysen supports ECC if the motherboard supports it.  Do any ECC Rysen Motherboards exist?  According to PC Part Picker, no boards with ECC support exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25971" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="463322ad-c847-4a5a-9f5d-ac24b0af3356" CreationDate="2017-10-17T18:28:02.523" UserId="1057" Text="Rysen Motherboard with ECC support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25972" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="463322ad-c847-4a5a-9f5d-ac24b0af3356" CreationDate="2017-10-17T18:28:02.523" UserId="1057" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8242" RevisionGUID="9fe5c9e2-d60b-4ead-a3a5-0a29826507bf" CreationDate="2017-10-17T19:56:16.833" UserId="241" Text="I'd upgrade the CPU and mainboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were doing workstation graphics work, the i5-2500's onboard graphics would be a substantial downgrade from your Quadro.  But the same optimizations that make the Quadro a powerful workstation card make it a poor choice for a gaming card -- even though the HD 2000 has fewer compute cores and shares its RAM with the system, it'll be faster for games than the Quadro." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8243" RevisionGUID="8815eb49-3479-4256-b7cd-b4af3ba849a2" CreationDate="2017-10-17T19:58:27.593" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="This [post][1] provides a list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know how accurate it is or up-to-date, its dated May, so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But on the list, which will help give you a starting point for your search:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; *ASRock* -All x370 support [Not confirmed to actually run in ECC mode] ECC unbuffered [Unconfirmed Windows support, Claimed support in Linux &gt;= 4.10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Taichi -Linux 4.10 ECC support listed on QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Killer SLI/ac&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Killer SLI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming lists 3 ECC chips in QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;*ASUS -Support for ECC unbuffered*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;PRIME B350M-A/CSM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;PRIME B350-PLUS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;PRIME X370-PRO -3rd party claim -3rd party claim 2 Transcend ECC chips listed on Official QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.overclock.net/t/1629642/ryzen-ecc-motherboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25978" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="50c1e695-cdb1-4ee4-be0c-f82730d18f0b" CreationDate="2017-10-17T22:23:25.720" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Spelling - - changed Rysen to Ryzen for clarity" Text="I am looking at doing a NAS build with Ryzen 3 or 5.  I read that Ryzen supports ECC if the motherboard supports it.  Do any ECC Ryzen Motherboards exist?  According to PC Part Picker, no boards with ECC support exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25979" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="50c1e695-cdb1-4ee4-be0c-f82730d18f0b" CreationDate="2017-10-17T22:23:25.720" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Spelling - - changed Rysen to Ryzen for clarity" Text="Ryzen Motherboard with ECC support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25980" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="50c1e695-cdb1-4ee4-be0c-f82730d18f0b" CreationDate="2017-10-17T22:23:25.720" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 1057 edit id of 639" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8205" RevisionGUID="d19691d9-2972-4cdb-829f-e6d387713dbb" CreationDate="2017-10-18T00:42:32.820" UserId="7112" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="I'm quite new to pc building. I'd like to seek advises about building a computer which can support up to 3 or 4 monitors, and as cheap as possible.&#xD;&#xA;I went to few pc shops, some recommend me to get GTX 1050ti while others recommend me to get GTX1060. So i'm confused now. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purpose of the computer  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen 1 for main screen controls (Monitor)  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen 2 to display videos or image etc (Projector)  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen 3 to display theme text or title (Monitor)  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen 4 backup  (Monitor)  &#xD;&#xA;*All displays will be in HD (1080).* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirement  &#xD;&#xA; - Build based on Intel Processor  &#xD;&#xA; - Both Nvidia and AMD graphic are acceptable as long as it can support the function mentioned above (as well as other parts; Motherboard, ram etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please let me know if you need further details. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8245" RevisionGUID="c4828f80-2ca6-489e-bb66-67f77c710b03" CreationDate="2017-10-18T01:01:15.087" UserId="7148" Text="I hope this isn't a silly question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've set my sights on a [Lenovo ThinkPad E570][1]. If you click &quot;Configure&quot; on that link, you'll see that you can choose various options for the hard drive. I want a traditional hard disk drive for my data, as well as an SSD for the operating system. This is an allowed option on Lenovo's website, but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I don't know if I want the SSD now, or whether I can wait to buy one later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I don't know if I can buy an SSD at a cheaper price ($200 AUD from Lenovo for a 120GB SSD seems steep).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not up to speed on SSD technology, and Lenovo sales were unhelpful in providing an adequate answer, so what type of SSD do I need? The first option on the site says &quot;SATA3&quot; while the second days &quot;PCIe-NVME OPAL2&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Non-essential Background Information**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A year ago I switched from macOS on a MacBook Pro to Fedora Linux. Running Linux directly on my Apple hardware proved difficult due to the dual graphics (I was unable to turn off the discrete graphics chip, which caused excessive heat and poor battery performance), so I've been running Linux in a Virtual Machine. However, it's now time for me to take the final step, sell my old MacBook Pro and purchase a Linux-friendly laptop, and most people highly recommend the ThinkPad range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www3.lenovo.com/au/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-edge/Thinkpad-E570/p/22TP2TEE570?menu-id=E570&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8245" RevisionGUID="c4828f80-2ca6-489e-bb66-67f77c710b03" CreationDate="2017-10-18T01:01:15.087" UserId="7148" Text="What type of SSDs can be put in this laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8245" RevisionGUID="c4828f80-2ca6-489e-bb66-67f77c710b03" CreationDate="2017-10-18T01:01:15.087" UserId="7148" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="b87c7b7f-9b3c-4d85-a956-5900688c9e9f" CreationDate="2017-10-18T07:12:58.660" UserId="5143" Text="My desktop computer often loads Web pages much slower than my MacBook Pro, both through the same WiFi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if that is a matter of poor WiFi card in my desktop computer. The computer is on the floor, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator. The WiFi router is in another room. This might be part of the problem. I don't want to put my desktop on my desk, so I am looking for a better card (with longer antenna?) or some other solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my current specification:&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi router [Compel CH7465LG-LC][1] from my Internet provider&#xD;&#xA;* desktop computer with [PCE N10, WiFi PCI card][2]&#xD;&#xA;* MacBook Pro with AirPort Extreme card (firmware version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.21.95.175.1a6))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.hardware.info/product/371250/compal-ch7465lg-zg-ziggo-connect-box/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="b87c7b7f-9b3c-4d85-a956-5900688c9e9f" CreationDate="2017-10-18T07:12:58.660" UserId="5143" Text="WiFi card for a desktop computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="b87c7b7f-9b3c-4d85-a956-5900688c9e9f" CreationDate="2017-10-18T07:12:58.660" UserId="5143" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="5be6c168-676e-408c-b9a6-2fb440ca13ca" CreationDate="2017-10-18T07:20:48.927" UserId="5143" Comment="added 246 characters in body" Text="My desktop computer often loads Web pages much slower than my MacBook Pro, both through the same WiFi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if that is a matter of poor WiFi card in my desktop computer. The computer is on the floor under the desk, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator. The WiFi router is in another room. The signal drops from -30dBm to -60dBm when I move from WiFi router to where my desktop compter is located (measured with [WiFi Analyzer][1]). This might be part of the problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to put my desktop on my desk, so I am looking for a better WiFi card: (with longer antenna?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my current specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi router [Compel CH7465LG-LC][2] from my Internet provider&#xD;&#xA;* desktop computer with [PCE N10, WiFi PCI card][3]&#xD;&#xA;* MacBook Pro with AirPort Extreme card (firmware version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.21.95.175.1a6))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://us.hardware.info/product/371250/compal-ch7465lg-zg-ziggo-connect-box/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25989" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="c1e1e93f-cbde-42f2-b868-c645718dcddc" CreationDate="2017-10-18T07:35:01.917" UserId="5143" Comment="added 547 characters in body" Text="My desktop computer often loads Web pages much slower than my MacBook Pro, both through the same WiFi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if that is a matter of poor WiFi card in my desktop computer. The computer is on the floor under the desk, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator. The WiFi router is in another room. The signal drops from -30dBm to -60dBm when I move from WiFi router to where my desktop compter is located (measured for 2.4GHz network with [WiFi Analyzer][1]). This might be part of the problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to put my desktop on my desk, so I am looking for a better WiFi card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Are there WiFi cards with longer antennas, so the location of my desktop computer is less problematic?&#xD;&#xA;2. Does it make sense to invest into 5GHz cards? I've [read][2] 5GHz will always have a shorter range than 2.4GHz and will have trouble going through objects (anything with water: wood, cement, etc) comparing to 2.4GHz but 5GHz offers greater throughput. Plus, most of my neighbours are using 2.4GHz networks, probably leading to noise (more noise leads to congestion, congestion leads to decreased performance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my current specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi router [Compel CH7465LG-LC][3] from my Internet provider&#xD;&#xA;* desktop computer with [PCE N10, WiFi PCI card][4]&#xD;&#xA;* MacBook Pro with AirPort Extreme card (firmware version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.21.95.175.1a6))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/a/626512/106160&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://us.hardware.info/product/371250/compal-ch7465lg-zg-ziggo-connect-box/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25990" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="49c5664b-777a-4f82-b9f3-2e0402775213" CreationDate="2017-10-18T08:05:55.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="25991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="51ce260d-4855-449b-a8dc-e4a9aa69b17b" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:02:53.183" UserId="5143" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="My desktop computer often loads Web pages much slower than my MacBook Pro, both through the same WiFi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if that is a matter of poor WiFi card in my desktop computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer is on the floor under the desk, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator. The WiFi router is in another room. The signal drops from -30dBm to -60dBm when I move from WiFi router to where my desktop compter is located (measured for 2.4GHz network with [WiFi Analyzer][1]). This might be part of the problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to put my desktop on my desk, so I am looking for a better WiFi card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Are there WiFi cards with longer antennas, so the location of my desktop computer is less problematic?&#xD;&#xA;2. Does it make sense to invest into 5GHz cards? I've [read][2] 5GHz will always have a shorter range than 2.4GHz and will have trouble going through objects (anything with water: wood, cement, etc) comparing to 2.4GHz but 5GHz offers greater throughput. Plus, most of my neighbours are using 2.4GHz networks, probably leading to noise (more noise leads to congestion, congestion leads to decreased performance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my current specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi router [Compel CH7465LG-LC][3] from my Internet provider&#xD;&#xA;* desktop computer with [PCE N10, WiFi PCI card][4]&#xD;&#xA;* MacBook Pro with AirPort Extreme card (firmware version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.21.95.175.1a6))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/a/626512/106160&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://us.hardware.info/product/371250/compal-ch7465lg-zg-ziggo-connect-box/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25992" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8247" RevisionGUID="fc555015-32ad-4a7e-a40d-9388e40eeee6" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:23:28.377" UserId="7149" Text="My PC is i5-6600K, Gigabyte G1 GTX1070, 16Gb RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I use two monitors - Dell U2414H for gaming and coding and old Samsung BX2035 for Internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy 144Hz monitor for games and right now Im choosing within Asus PG248Q, Asus PG279Q, Dell S2417DG, Dell S2716DG and AOC AGON AG271QG. Of course Asus PG279Q is the best, but I have to buy it from computeruniverse.com due to hight price in my country so this option has its drawbacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new monitor should become the main one, and U2414H should be used for Internet surfing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, I want to get advice on **which monitor is better in the described**, and also I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Is TN really worse than IPS?** I always sit in a lighted room and look at the monitor straight so bleeding is not a problem.&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Is 1440p good for 24&quot;?** Will not the text be too small? And if I increase the scale, will there be blurrs due to interpolation?&#xD;&#xA; 3. **Is 1440p 144Hz good with GTX1070?** And will it be good in the next 2-3 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I rarely play in competitve FPS, **maybe I do not need 144Hz at all?** As an example of the games I play: World of Warcraft, Dota 2, Starcraft 2, Civilization 6, Fallout 4, Tomb Rider etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be glad to any advice or links to articles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25993" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8247" RevisionGUID="fc555015-32ad-4a7e-a40d-9388e40eeee6" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:23:28.377" UserId="7149" Text="Choosing monitor for gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25994" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8247" RevisionGUID="fc555015-32ad-4a7e-a40d-9388e40eeee6" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:23:28.377" UserId="7149" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25995" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="922fdcba-2058-4390-9057-98ec7776a0d2" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:28:11.627" UserId="5143" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="My desktop computer often loads Web pages much slower than my MacBook Pro, both through the same WiFi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if that is a matter of poor WiFi card in my desktop computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer is on the floor under the desk, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator. The WiFi router is in another room. The signal drops from -30dBm to -60dBm when I move from WiFi router to where my desktop compter is located (measured for 2.4GHz network with [WiFi Analyzer][1]). This might be part of the problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to put my desktop on my desk, so I am looking for a better WiFi card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Are there WiFi cards with longer antennas or WiFi cards with antenna connected on a long cable so that I can place antenna above the desk?&#xD;&#xA;2. Does it make sense to invest into 5GHz cards? I've [read][2] 5GHz will always have a shorter range than 2.4GHz and will have trouble going through objects (anything with water: wood, cement, etc) comparing to 2.4GHz but 5GHz offers greater throughput. Plus, most of my neighbours are using 2.4GHz networks, probably leading to noise (more noise leads to congestion, congestion leads to decreased performance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my current specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi router [Compel CH7465LG-LC][3] from my Internet provider&#xD;&#xA;* desktop computer with [PCE N10, WiFi PCI card][4]&#xD;&#xA;* MacBook Pro with AirPort Extreme card (firmware version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.21.95.175.1a6))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/a/626512/106160&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://us.hardware.info/product/371250/compal-ch7465lg-zg-ziggo-connect-box/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25996" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="922fdcba-2058-4390-9057-98ec7776a0d2" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:28:11.627" UserId="5143" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="WiFi card with antenna on a cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26004" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="1e55ac74-c8be-4241-86da-042dd48d366b" CreationDate="2017-10-18T13:17:00.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26005" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8247" RevisionGUID="bf6ef211-ae71-4f6e-9230-0cfe3315881a" CreationDate="2017-10-18T14:32:18.560" UserId="7149" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="My PC is i5-6600K, Gigabyte G1 GTX1070, 16Gb RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I use two monitors - Dell U2414H for gaming and coding and old Samsung BX2035 for Internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy 144Hz monitor for games and right now Im choosing within Asus PG248Q, Asus PG279Q, Dell S2417DG, Dell S2716DG and AOC AGON AG271QG. Of course Asus PG279Q is the best, but I have to buy it from computeruniverse.com due to hight price in my country so this option has its drawbacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new monitor should become the main one, and U2414H should be used for Internet surfing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, I want to get advice on **which monitor is better in the described situation**, and also I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Is TN really worse than IPS?** I always sit in a lighted room and look at the monitor straight so bleeding is not a problem.&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Is 1440p good for 24&quot;?** Will not the text be too small? And if I increase the scale, will there be blurrs due to interpolation?&#xD;&#xA; 3. **Is 1440p 144Hz good with GTX1070?** And will it be good in the next 2-3 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I rarely play in competitve FPS, **maybe I do not need 144Hz at all?** As an example of the games I play: World of Warcraft, Dota 2, Starcraft 2, Civilization 6, Fallout 4, Tomb Rider etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be glad to any advice or links to articles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8243" RevisionGUID="b22396a8-e45b-4a8c-b726-f3ebabe7c973" CreationDate="2017-10-18T19:02:17.600" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="removed item following Mark's comment" Text="This [post][1] provides a list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know how accurate it is or up-to-date, its dated May, so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But on the list, which will help give you a starting point for your search:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; *ASRock* -All x370 support [Not confirmed to actually run in ECC mode] ECC unbuffered [Unconfirmed Windows support, Claimed support in Linux &gt;= 4.10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Taichi -Linux 4.10 ECC support listed on QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Killer SLI/ac&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;X370 Killer SLI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming lists 3 ECC chips in QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;*ASUS -Support for ECC unbuffered*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;PRIME B350-PLUS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;PRIME X370-PRO -3rd party claim -3rd party claim 2 Transcend ECC chips listed on Official QVL&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.overclock.net/t/1629642/ryzen-ecc-motherboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8250" RevisionGUID="9d007af0-e39a-4db1-8a14-121f51c1b895" CreationDate="2017-10-19T00:27:47.407" UserId="7158" Text="Just connect router B's WAN(Internet) port to any free port on router A. Enable DHCP service on router B so it can provide addresses to the machines connecting to it. Machines can also use static addresses if preferred.&#xA;&#xA;With this configuration, computers on router B can get to the Internet transparently through router A. No configuration regarding A is required on them.&#xA;&#xA;The computers on B can see each other since they are on the same network segment. But they cannot see the computers on router A at all. Nor can the computers on A see the ones on B.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26009" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8251" RevisionGUID="642ca2fb-1211-444a-bcf6-835eb1a0ef0a" CreationDate="2017-10-19T01:55:49.127" UserId="376" Text="I have an Aorus X5-MD gaming laptop (Aorus is the gaming division of Gigabyte, and appears to share some hardware, including the power system.) which has an input power specification of 19.5VDC 10.5A, or 200W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to extend this laptop's battery life - at present I get perhaps two hours, but I'd like at least four.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a slim and *relatively* inexpensive power bank that can supply the necessary current - the voltage doesn't seem to be a problem these days, but 10.5A would likely burn out most if not all typical power banks, most of the highest capacity power banks seem to have a maximum current of 4-5A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like something that I can put in my backpack and lug around, so relatively flat would be good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if there was any way of using several lower-power-capacity power banks connected in parallel in such a way that they didn't feed back into one-another and burn out/explode, I'd consider that too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the only option is a power bank with mains AC output, it'd have to be Australian 240V 50Hz true sine-wave output(so I can use it for other things), at 300W to allow for conversion losses." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26010" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8251" RevisionGUID="642ca2fb-1211-444a-bcf6-835eb1a0ef0a" CreationDate="2017-10-19T01:55:49.127" UserId="376" Text="Power bank for gaming laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26011" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8251" RevisionGUID="642ca2fb-1211-444a-bcf6-835eb1a0ef0a" CreationDate="2017-10-19T01:55:49.127" UserId="376" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8252" RevisionGUID="a498b3c6-5ab4-40c0-bc0a-a637b8cc0300" CreationDate="2017-10-19T06:18:56.897" UserId="203" Text="Assuming your network B has a different, wired WAN that is occasionally offline, I'm recommending the **Pepwave Surf Soho MK3**. It's available for $199 (not including shipping) on [3G Store](https://3gstore.com/product/4136_surf-soho-4g-router-with-80211ac.html), with the stock external antennae, and the same price on Amazon, with free shipping, if you want to buy your own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The range is claimed to be 250-300’ through walls, though this is likely to be the 2.4 GHz band. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any sources specifying range for the 5 GHz band. If the range is insufficient you may need to use higher gain or directional antennae, or provision additional access points.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Officially, the number of *recommended* users is 25, but if few users use any bandwidth, it is unlikely there will be a problem, as most issues arising from too many users come due to bandwidth contention. Overall, the Pepwave Surf is an excellent Wifi-as-WAN device, and likely one of the best single AP networking device for your purposes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8253" RevisionGUID="f9c1f47d-24fc-4c8f-b7a6-249d1c507f22" CreationDate="2017-10-19T06:24:38.753" UserId="7075" Text="**1.** YES&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2.** I would recommend 1080p for 24&quot; simply because you will get way more frames per second, and again more PPI, looks better and in this case 1440p with 24&quot; is about 121PPI and 1440p with 27&quot; is about 109PPI so really not much of a difference. Also I think I saw couple of 27&quot; monitors and 2560x1440 at 27&quot; is the same pixel density as 1920x1080 at 24&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3.** It is and for 90% of upcoming games in next 3 years it will be, but then again don't hold my word, we can't predict future tough I reckon you will be able to play them in medium-high settings(in 3 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitors I would recommend are Dell S2417DG and Asus PG248Q tough I prefer Dell over Asus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="6aeca19d-b24e-4858-a201-7f3dc8dc8f6b" CreationDate="2017-10-19T07:21:13.503" UserId="7075" Comment="OP didn't say the currency in question but in comments so i edited it" Text="For work, I professionally edit videos. Right now I am using a Mac Book Pro, but I find it very slow and it's not fitting my workflow anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to change my hardware and buy a Windows desktop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need basically is a machine that will allow me to work on graphics and video editing. My computer needs to be fast in the rendering operations, analyze my video frame by frame and to compose it back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am working on raw files CinemaDNG (lossless formats), and I need a pc that can manage this huge amount of data. Each frame size is from 15 to 20 mega and we have 25 fps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's possible, I would like to spend less than 2000 euros and I am mostly using AdobePremiere, Adobe After Effects and DavinciResolve&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What computer will fit my needs right now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26016" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8233" RevisionGUID="6aeca19d-b24e-4858-a201-7f3dc8dc8f6b" CreationDate="2017-10-19T07:21:13.503" Comment="Proposed by 7075 approved by 7143 edit id of 640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8254" RevisionGUID="006d2dbe-f0fa-4399-90e5-7bc036a8c539" CreationDate="2017-10-19T07:50:32.500" UserId="7159" Text="I'm about to embark on my 1st self build and want to spec a machine for general home use to include for general office duties, hobby photo editing using elements, organising my music collection and perhaps some light gaming. I had been planning to use a Kaby Lake i5 processor but I wonder if my needs, and some better degree of longevity would be better served by using a Coffee Lake i3 chip? I can't stretch to a Coffee Lake i5." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26018" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8254" RevisionGUID="006d2dbe-f0fa-4399-90e5-7bc036a8c539" CreationDate="2017-10-19T07:50:32.500" UserId="7159" Text="Kaby Lake i5 or Coffee Lake i3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26019" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8254" RevisionGUID="006d2dbe-f0fa-4399-90e5-7bc036a8c539" CreationDate="2017-10-19T07:50:32.500" UserId="7159" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26020" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="b8815577-3692-4065-8df3-e4d15bcd7152" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:22:53.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8255" RevisionGUID="4d7b7bbc-2a48-4907-a127-0ba2251a9d9c" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:30:20.773" UserId="7075" Text="I think [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MTPF7h) would be great(I included a monitor too since you didn't specify if you needed it), but I didn't include the storage since I don't know do you need 1TB or 5TB, you didn't specify it. Price without the monitor is ~1500$ which is ~1270 euros. You can take the nVidia 1080 if you are doing much complex work in DaVinciResolve but the 1070 should do the job." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26022" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="fac8296a-1dcd-4042-b579-8d93eed3d5be" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:43:01.897" UserId="7155" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop, mainly for fullstack software development. What (I think) I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Linux (Debian-based, probably Ubuntu or a fork)&#xD;&#xA;- Core i7+&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB+&#xD;&#xA;- SSD 256GB+&#xD;&#xA;- 14&quot;/15&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't really care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Nice-looking laptop&#xD;&#xA;- Powerful graphic card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a limited budget, but of course looking for the best value for money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find some nice laptops with Linux preinstalled (e.g. by Dell or System76), but they are usually quite expensive ($1,000+). On the other hands, some cheaper laptops seem to fulfill these constraints, but have Windows installed by default. **What would be the drawbacks of buying a Windows laptop, and then installing Linux manually on it?** Could I meet some drivers issues? I already have a Windows laptop, so I won't need a dual-boot on the new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, do you think such a config would be a good suit for my needs? Basically, I just want to be comfortable with having multiple DBMS/IDE/browsers/processes running at the same time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26023" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="fac8296a-1dcd-4042-b579-8d93eed3d5be" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:43:01.897" UserId="7155" Text="Buying a Windows laptop, then install Linux on it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26024" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="fac8296a-1dcd-4042-b579-8d93eed3d5be" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:43:01.897" UserId="7155" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8257" RevisionGUID="486058fe-bab9-48b7-9a80-6ec34afed10f" CreationDate="2017-10-19T13:27:29.927" UserId="3717" Text="If it's 8350K vs 7600K, I would go for the 8350K, as it is slightly cheaper and a little better performing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even 8100 vs 7400 shows the same scenario." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="1c86d674-dfa0-4dc0-9797-f1ed9f390fb7" CreationDate="2017-10-19T15:54:42.833" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 93 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop, mainly for fullstack software development. What (I think) I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Linux (Debian-based, probably Ubuntu or a fork)&#xD;&#xA;- Core i7+&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB+&#xD;&#xA;- SSD 256GB+&#xD;&#xA;- 14&quot;/15&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't really care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Nice-looking laptop&#xD;&#xA;- Powerful graphic card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a limited budget, but of course looking for the best value for money. I just want to be comfortable with having multiple DBMS/IDE/browsers/processes running at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find some nice laptops with Linux preinstalled (e.g. by Dell or System76), but they are usually quite expensive ($1,000+). On the other hands, some cheaper laptops seem to fulfill these constraints, but have Windows installed by default. I am concerned about driver issues if I buy a Windows laptop, so laptops running Windows must run Linux without issue. Plus, I already have a Windows laptop, so I won't need a dual-boot on the new one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8258" RevisionGUID="70386396-5a7e-4e3b-aae0-3dda38579c9d" CreationDate="2017-10-19T17:26:03.790" UserId="7075" Text="I need a monitor for programming, and light gaming. With a price at about 250 euros which is ~290$. My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-23.8&quot;-25&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-1080p/1200p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-very thin bezels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm deciding between Dell S2415 and Dell U2414H. I would like if you would tell me any other monitors that fit those requirements or help me decide between those 2." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26028" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8258" RevisionGUID="70386396-5a7e-4e3b-aae0-3dda38579c9d" CreationDate="2017-10-19T17:26:03.790" UserId="7075" Text="Best All-In-One monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26029" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8258" RevisionGUID="70386396-5a7e-4e3b-aae0-3dda38579c9d" CreationDate="2017-10-19T17:26:03.790" UserId="7075" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8259" RevisionGUID="0d0c89f9-3e1e-46dc-af79-4f8a86125845" CreationDate="2017-10-19T19:05:18.397" UserId="7165" Text="If your AC adapter is 200W, your situation is similar to mine. I have a 120W laptop and 230W gaming laptop, and here are the solutions that I found.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;1) [ChargeTech 54000 mAh][1]       at $399 - Top-of-the-line solution that will power any device up to 250W. Still the price is quite steep....&#xD;&#xA;This uses a mains AC output, and so I'm unsure about how it works for an Australian output, but the specs say &quot;The international outlets are compatible with Type A, B, C, I, G, E, and L.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Aviant 42000 mAh at $220  - Cheaper solution than the above. It worked for my 230W device. The specs say that this supports 200W continuous/250W peak, and so you should be OK.&#xD;&#xA;This also uses a mains AC output, and so I am unsure about Australian compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*  Devices such as the MAXOAK 50000 mAH WILL NOT WORK! The specs only support up to 90W, but I was able to get my 120W laptop to run. My 230W laptop did not run.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I did a detailed write-up of my testing if you're interested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Portable Power Banks for Laptops][2]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;JapanDude&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJ31XZR/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=kiefferinternati&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B06XJ31XZR&amp;linkId=0fe7d8be82aa986ae29c11571c240a28&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.japandude.com/power-options-for-gaming-laptops/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26031" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8259" RevisionGUID="e5488fe8-846f-4a94-b29e-1e99b8a45162" CreationDate="2017-10-19T19:23:29.343" UserId="7165" Comment="230W laptop -&gt; 230W gaming laptop" Text="If your AC adapter is 200W, your situation is similar to mine. I have a 120W laptop and 230W gaming laptop, and here are the solutions that I found.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;1) [ChargeTech 54000 mAh][1]       at $399 - Top-of-the-line solution that will power any device up to 250W. Still the price is quite steep....&#xD;&#xA;This uses a mains AC output, and so I'm unsure about how it works for an Australian output, but the specs say &quot;The international outlets are compatible with Type A, B, C, I, G, E, and L.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Aviant 42000 mAh at $220  - Cheaper solution than the above. It worked for my 230W device. The specs say that this supports 200W continuous/250W peak, and so you should be OK.&#xD;&#xA;This also uses a mains AC output, and so I am unsure about Australian compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*  Devices such as the MAXOAK 50000 mAH WILL NOT WORK! The specs only support up to 90W, but I was able to get my 120W laptop to run. My 230W gaming laptop did not run.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I did a detailed write-up of my testing if you're interested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Portable Power Banks for Laptops][2]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;JapanDude&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJ31XZR/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=kiefferinternati&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B06XJ31XZR&amp;linkId=0fe7d8be82aa986ae29c11571c240a28&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.japandude.com/power-options-for-gaming-laptops/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5951" RevisionGUID="ddfeaac9-db13-49de-aa44-842b67569c77" CreationDate="2017-10-19T22:20:22.920" UserId="4618" Comment="Added recommendation after 1 year of use; removed other options" Text="#Powerline Adapter with PoE Injector (~$60)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Update 10/19/2017&#xD;&#xA;A year later, I wholeheartedly recommend a Powerline (aka Homeplug) adapter with POE, rather than a wireless bridge. I still haven't found any wireless bridges with POE out for less than $100, but in the meantime, the handful of [COPS-928-POE](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerline-Ethernet-adapter-with-built-in-POE-for-IP-Cameras-or-Wifi-Hotspot-/251783887138) have been working great. I definitely recommend this option for connecting remote IP phones. This is a decent option for remote security cameras as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea behind PoE was to make it easy to send power to devices where you had Ethernet (or could easily wire Ethernet), but no power, but if you happen to have power, but no Ethernet at the place where your PoE-powered device needs to go, a POE PSE Powerline adapter is a better option than a wireless bridge. The Powerline adapter sends its signal via the existing electrical wiring in your house, and will generally  encounter less interference than a wireless adapter (unless you have a lot of AC motors running, like vacuum cleaners or heavy machinery).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TP-Link AV200 Nano has been working great as the other end of the Powerline bridge, by the router. This end of the Powerline bridge doesn't need PoE out, and the AV200 adapter is cheaper than the higher-bandwith AV500 adapters (and later). An IP phone doesn't need much bandwidth, so the ~70 Mbps supported by the AV200 is plenty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Original Post:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After several hours of research, I'm feeling pretty confident that a wireless bridge with a built-in 802.3af PoE injector doesn't exist except for [industrial applications](http://www.acksys.fr/en/product/13-wlg-switch/). However, you can get a Powerline ethernet bridge with a built-in POE injector, though they can be a bit harder to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side note: no, I am not getting EoP confused with PoE. There really are devices that can go from EoP to PoE in a single unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lowest-clutter solution to connect the phone to the network and provide PoE is a **Powerline Ethernet Bridge with PoE Injector**, such as the [Comtrend Powergrid 9141s-poe Powerline Network Adapter](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comtrend-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-1-X-Network-rj-45-200-Mbps-Powerline/232086634742) or the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294), available on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![COP-Systems COPS-928-POE connects to a Powerline network and outputs PoE in one unit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Low clutter:** the only item close to the phone is Powerline adapter. The phone connects directly to the Powerline adapter, which outputs 802.3af, so no need for a separate PoE injector. The only cable is the Ethernet cable going from the phone to the Powerline adapter. There's not even a power cord, since the device is a wall wart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is slightly more clutter than a wireless bridge, because you also need a Powerline adapter near the router that is compatible with the Homeplug AV standard, such as the [TP-Link AV200](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4). But at least the extra clutter is with all your other network equipment clutter, instead of cluttering your desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram showing ISP &gt; Cable &gt; Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Powerline adapter &gt; Outlet &gt; Electrical Wiring &gt; Outlet &gt; Powerline adapter with PoE &gt; Ethernet Cable &gt; Phone][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Easy setup:** Since this solution is for a home user who will probably need to set it up himself, you want the simplest possible setup. Powerline is plug-and-play: just plug in both adapters and push the button on each one to connect them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Better for phones anyway:** Powerline has less packet loss than WiFi, which means better call quality [citation needed].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE** (10/24/2016) I tested the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294) paired with [TP-LINK AV200 Nano](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUIY4). They established a link within seconds after plugging them in. COPS-928-POE powered up my phone right away, and my phone connected to the server a few seconds after the two Powerline adapters established a connection with each other. I hit the security button on both adapters to establish a secure link, and everything reconnected again within 15 seconds. There was no noticeable difference in call quality, compared to my Ethernet connection. Since they are now paired and ready to go, I will be shipping the pair to the home user, confident they will be able to get these set up fairly easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKZ4r.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/10jyx.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8259" RevisionGUID="63c4f869-1ac3-4561-8ed4-53191f230467" CreationDate="2017-10-20T01:15:51.877" UserId="7165" Comment="Added link to product identified as &quot;cheapest solution&quot;" Text="If your AC adapter is 200W, your situation is similar to mine. I have a 120W laptop and 230W gaming laptop, and here are the solutions that I found.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;1) [ChargeTech 54000 mAh][1]       at $399 - Top-of-the-line solution that will power any device up to 250W. Still the price is quite steep....&#xD;&#xA;This uses a mains AC output, and so I'm unsure about how it works for an Australian output, but the specs say &quot;The international outlets are compatible with Type A, B, C, I, G, E, and L.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) [Aviant 42000 mAh at $220][2]  - Cheaper solution than the above. It worked for my 230W device. The specs say that this supports 200W continuous/250W peak, and so you should be OK.&#xD;&#xA;This also uses a mains AC output, and so I am unsure about Australian compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*  Devices such as the MAXOAK 50000 mAH WILL NOT WORK! The specs only support up to 90W, but I was able to get my 120W laptop to run. My 230W gaming laptop did not run.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I did a detailed write-up of my testing if you're interested.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Portable Power Banks for Laptops][3]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;JapanDude&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJ31XZR/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=kiefferinternati&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B06XJ31XZR&amp;linkId=0fe7d8be82aa986ae29c11571c240a28&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RC5Y3N/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=kiefferinternati&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B071RC5Y3N&amp;linkId=ec10112d0b1c7434a5a430370ea04ef7&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.japandude.com/power-options-for-gaming-laptops/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="7e5b34ad-c6bb-4709-93af-4bbfbce9d1d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T09:12:57.143" UserId="7167" Text="I have just started a PhD for which I will also analyze LIDAR data. Our IT guy has asked me what kind of monitor I would like, with the following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24 inch Full HD + small SD monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch Full HD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch 2540x1440 monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop I'll be using this with is a Lenovo T470P with i7-7770HQ and 16 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys think it will be worth it to have the higher resolution monitor for my LIDAR data or is it not necessary and would a Full HD monitor by sufficient as well? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want him to spend all his budget on me if it is not necessary. On the other hand, I also don't want to be limited by my monitor in my analysis, and this is more important for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;Tom" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26040" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="7e5b34ad-c6bb-4709-93af-4bbfbce9d1d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T09:12:57.143" UserId="7167" Text="What screen size and resolution for analyzing Lidar data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26041" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="7e5b34ad-c6bb-4709-93af-4bbfbce9d1d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T09:12:57.143" UserId="7167" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26042" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="1b45a6fa-e8cb-44f1-a087-cf2d4967f4dc" CreationDate="2017-10-20T09:24:08.793" UserId="7167" Comment="edited title" Text="What monitor size and resolution for analyzing Lidar data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="3ce58643-9a1d-4ffc-9f08-f833ec715063" CreationDate="2017-10-20T09:30:11.850" UserId="7167" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="I have just started a PhD for which I will also analyze LIDAR data. Our IT guy has asked me what kind of monitor I would like, with the following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24 inch Full HD + small SD monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch Full HD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch 2540x1440 monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop I'll be using this with is a Lenovo T470P with i7-7770HQ and 16 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys think it will be worth it to have the higher resolution monitor for my LIDAR data or is it not necessary and would a Full HD monitor by sufficient as well? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want him to spend all his budget on me if it is not necessary. On the other hand, I also don't want to be limited by my monitor in my analysis, and this is more important for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8263" RevisionGUID="a47fe39f-ed1b-4281-8a08-23a134f983d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:01:02.157" UserId="5043" Text="ISP at my home is shaky. Both are unreliable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if there is a way to have a router that can use 2 ISPs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If one ISP is down the router will simply access the internet from the second ISP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An automatic solution is preferred" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8263" RevisionGUID="a47fe39f-ed1b-4281-8a08-23a134f983d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:01:02.157" UserId="5043" Text="Is there any router or set ups that can use 2 ISPs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8263" RevisionGUID="a47fe39f-ed1b-4281-8a08-23a134f983d6" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:01:02.157" UserId="5043" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8264" RevisionGUID="0a427138-1c02-411f-9396-5dfe4f6f9dff" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:28:19.213" UserId="7032" Text="(As I am still new to hardwarerecs, I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am to purchase RAM for my newly purchased&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ASUS P10S-M WS/IPMI-O](https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P10S-M-WS-IPMI-O) that supports `4 x DIMM, Max. 64GB, DDR4 2400/2133 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory`&#xD;&#xA;Dual Channel Memory Architecture &#xD;&#xA;* and [Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1260L v5](https://ark.intel.com/products/88175/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1260L-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz) that supports `64 GB DDR4-1866/2133, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V ECC`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to max out the memory to 64GB and planned to puchase four &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `16GB ECC unbuffered/UNB/UDIMM` RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The memory I am interested in is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `Samsung 288pin DDR4 Unbuffered DIMM based on 16Gb` (`M391A2K43BB1-CPB`)&#xD;&#xA;* (http ://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/products/dram/pc-dram/ddr4-unbuffered-dimm/M391A2K43BB1?ia=2428)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question is whether the SAMSUNG memory is compatible with the ASUS motherboard.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung's `Support &gt; Tools &amp; Utilities &gt; Board Compatibility` is not helpful, and strangely does not even list DDR4 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/support/tools-utilities/board-compatibility/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The QVL (Qualified Vendor List) for memory from ASUS does not list `M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M_WS/QVL/ESC500_G4_SFF_ESC510_G4_SFF_Series_Memory_20170929.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two other Samsung memories are however listed `16GB DDR4-2400 Non-ECC/UNB` and &#xD;&#xA;`8GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15`; the first not fit for the CPU, and the second will only max out to 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only two vendors that are on the list with an acceptable memory specification `16GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15` are INNODISK and Skhynix. Neither of which are available to me for purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found however that the QVL for memory for the ASUS P10S-M motherboard lists the `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.asus.com/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/P10S-M/HelpDesk_QVL/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the *memory chip* for the listed `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB` is the same memory chip listed for the INNODISK memory chip; `Samsung K4A8G085WB-BCPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; There are multiple memory companies on the market, but only a few true memory manufacturing companies. When researching different memory brands, you may run across companies that claim to be memory manufacturers, when they're really just module assemblers. How these companies work is that they purchase pre-manufactured parts (such as DRAM chips and printed circuit board) from true memory manufacturers, and then assemble these components to “manufacture” a module with their label on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://www.crucial.com/usa/en/store-truth-about-memory-manufacturers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I understand correctly, the listed P10S-M WS/IPM-O INNODB `M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93` is actually more or less the same memory as `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if they would differ for some reason, I am having a very difficult time to accept that the `M391A2K43BB1-CPB` -- or really any other memory -- will be incompatible with the motherboard save for some edge cases, such as incorrect manufacturing or assembling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is my first build it would be assuring if someone would confirm my conclusion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8264" RevisionGUID="0a427138-1c02-411f-9396-5dfe4f6f9dff" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:28:19.213" UserId="7032" Text="Determining memory compatibility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8264" RevisionGUID="0a427138-1c02-411f-9396-5dfe4f6f9dff" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:28:19.213" UserId="7032" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8264" RevisionGUID="799e77ce-9edf-48a3-8141-72e3984b9ca7" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:36:57.177" UserId="7032" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="(As I am still new to hardwarerecs, I cannot post more than 2 links.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am to purchase RAM for my newly purchased&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ASUS P10S-M WS/IPMI-O](https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P10S-M-WS-IPMI-O) that supports `4 x DIMM, Max. 64GB, DDR4 2400/2133 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory Dual Channel Memory Architecture`&#xD;&#xA;* and [Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1260L v5](https://ark.intel.com/products/88175/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1260L-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz) that supports `64 GB DDR4-1866/2133, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V ECC`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to max out the memory to 64GB and planned to puchase four &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `16GB ECC unbuffered/UNB/UDIMM` RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The memory I am interested in is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `Samsung 288pin DDR4 Unbuffered DIMM based on 16Gb` (`M391A2K43BB1-CPB`)&#xD;&#xA;* (http ://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/products/dram/pc-dram/ddr4-unbuffered-dimm/M391A2K43BB1?ia=2428)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question is whether the SAMSUNG memory is compatible with the ASUS motherboard.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung's `Support &gt; Tools &amp; Utilities &gt; Board Compatibility` is not helpful, and strangely does not even list DDR4 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/support/tools-utilities/board-compatibility/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The QVL (Qualified Vendor List) for memory from ASUS does not list `M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M_WS/QVL/ESC500_G4_SFF_ESC510_G4_SFF_Series_Memory_20170929.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two other Samsung memories are however listed `16GB DDR4-2400 Non-ECC/UNB` and &#xD;&#xA;`8GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15`; the first not fit for the CPU, and the second will only max out to 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only two vendors that are on the list with an acceptable memory specification `16GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15` are INNODISK and Skhynix. Neither of which are available to me for purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found however that the QVL for memory for the ASUS P10S-M motherboard lists the `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.asus.com/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/P10S-M/HelpDesk_QVL/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the *memory chip* for the listed `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB` is the same memory chip listed for the INNODISK memory chip; `Samsung K4A8G085WB-BCPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; There are multiple memory companies on the market, but only a few true memory manufacturing companies. When researching different memory brands, you may run across companies that claim to be memory manufacturers, when they're really just module assemblers. How these companies work is that they purchase pre-manufactured parts (such as DRAM chips and printed circuit board) from true memory manufacturers, and then assemble these components to “manufacture” a module with their label on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http ://www.crucial.com/usa/en/store-truth-about-memory-manufacturers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I understand correctly, the listed P10S-M WS/IPM-O INNODB `M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93` is actually more or less the same memory as `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if they would differ for some reason, I am having a very difficult time to accept that the `M391A2K43BB1-CPB` -- or really any other memory -- will be incompatible with the motherboard save for some edge cases, such as incorrect manufacturing or assembling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is my first build it would be assuring if someone could confirm my conclusion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26054" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="d2c43f54-0c3e-4d56-9834-edc6ec5ed059" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:47:09.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8261" RevisionGUID="8a100353-7213-48f8-b75f-8fec694a7b43" CreationDate="2017-10-20T12:59:07.863" UserId="7167" Comment="More info on tasks and how I will use it." Text="I have just started a PhD for which I will also analyze LIDAR data. Our IT guy has asked me what kind of monitor I would like, with the following options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24 inch Full HD + small SD monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch Full HD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;27 inch 2540x1440 monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop I'll be using this with is a Lenovo T470P with i7-7770HQ and 16 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys think it will be worth it to have the higher resolution monitor for my LIDAR data or is it not necessary and would a Full HD monitor by sufficient as well? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want him to spend all his budget on me if it is not necessary. On the other hand, I also don't want to be limited by my monitor in my analysis, and this is more important for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be plotting points on the LIDAR imagery and might also do some arcgis tasks, although at this point it is difficult to state what exactly I will be doing (just started this week and have mostly been doing admin). An important point to note is that I can use my laptop as a second monitor and so the extra SD monitor would be the third monitor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8265" RevisionGUID="3d94ecc5-07fe-44ea-9a16-ed925ec15f78" CreationDate="2017-10-20T13:19:17.477" UserDisplayName="user7171" Text="I want to buy an SSD for the specified reasons, and reliability and price are the most important for me. I want to do/learn C++ programming and get to know Linux in a deeper level. My budget would be 155 USD at most." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26057" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8265" RevisionGUID="3d94ecc5-07fe-44ea-9a16-ed925ec15f78" CreationDate="2017-10-20T13:19:17.477" UserDisplayName="user7171" Text="SSD for Linux system with Linux virtual machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26058" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8265" RevisionGUID="3d94ecc5-07fe-44ea-9a16-ed925ec15f78" CreationDate="2017-10-20T13:19:17.477" UserDisplayName="user7171" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8266" RevisionGUID="6140f4d7-99a1-472a-8118-8b647e0656d4" CreationDate="2017-10-20T17:37:36.120" UserId="1974" Text="I'm looking for a 1080P capable projector that is also a PC (built-in).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead of dedicating a separate computer (to always be hooked up to a projector in the meeting room), it would be nice if I could find a projector that could do remote desktop connections (RDP) to various computers on our LAN, without being hooked up to a separate PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This would allow each presenter to present from their own workstation from within the meeting-room, and if the projector is wifi capable, the only cable needed (to be plugged into the projector) is the power cable alone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be even extra cool if I could install Ubuntu Linux 16.04.3 as the operating system and use Remmina Remote Desktop Client to facilitate the RDP connections to the various workstations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26061" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8266" RevisionGUID="6140f4d7-99a1-472a-8118-8b647e0656d4" CreationDate="2017-10-20T17:37:36.120" UserId="1974" Text="Projector with Build-in Desktop PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26062" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8266" RevisionGUID="6140f4d7-99a1-472a-8118-8b647e0656d4" CreationDate="2017-10-20T17:37:36.120" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8267" RevisionGUID="92bee577-b52c-4c17-9178-f28ddad4d60c" CreationDate="2017-10-20T19:30:50.000" UserId="7032" Text="Main uses would be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux OS&#xD;&#xA;* Programming (C++)&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;while your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* reliability&#xD;&#xA;* price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want an internal SSD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that you would in theory want an SSD with [SLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell), however, they are more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example a search on newegg.com for SLC in the range $100-200 resulted in 1 match&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WD Green M.2 2280 240GB Internal SSD ($147.96)&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD7H5JF6834&#xD;&#xA;* disclaimer I do not use newegg but that was the only international product comparison search I knew that has &quot;power search&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, given your intended use, a [MLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell) based SSD should suffice. A search for MLC in the same range resulted in numerous products. The linked Wikipedia article even states that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In February 2016, a study was published that showed little difference in practice between the reliability of SLC and MLC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(referencing Bianca Schroeder and Arif Merchant (February 22, 2016). &quot;Flash Reliability in Production: The Expected and the Unexpected&quot;. Conference on File and Storage Technologies. Usenix. Retrieved November 3, 2016.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also need to ensure that the SSD you purchase support&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... the ATA_TRIM command for sustained long-term performance and wear-leveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing that I am aware of when using SSD with Linux is to ensure that the file system you use for the SSD supports TRIM. See the referenced archlinux link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your intended use I would say any SSD with SATA revision 3.0 (&quot;SATA 3&quot; or &quot;SATA III&quot;) interface should perform well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; You could say the maximum for SATA revision 3.0 is 6Gb/s, and that the maximum for SATA revision 3.2 is 16Gb/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally run an external SSD with USB 3.0 (can transfer data at up to 5 Gbit/s that is 625 MB/s according to Wikipedia) from where amongst other things I run virtual machines (Windows 7, Linux). For your stated uses I doubt you will have any performance issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to narrow down your search (MLC) in an effort to improve performance then I would recommend considering an SSD with NVMe interface if your motherboard supports it. The same search on newegg adding &quot;PCI-Express 3.0 x4&quot; narrows the search down to about 20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend searching for reviews or comparison videos for more specific examples. My favorite is &quot;NVMe SSD Review - Which Should You Buy? - 2017 Edition&quot;. Notice what he says in the beginning of the review; NVMe is for high-end machines; for mid-range computer see his &quot;SATA SSD&quot; review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqaZTwW_X2o&amp;index=3&amp;list=LLWZTE9hZO-zwSYsFBwqG2Rw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26064" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8267" RevisionGUID="2c347434-0de1-49e3-81e5-0bb762f104e0" CreationDate="2017-10-20T19:44:02.320" UserId="7032" Comment="added 468 characters in body" Text="Main uses would be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux OS&#xD;&#xA;* Programming (C++)&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;while your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* reliability&#xD;&#xA;* price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want an internal SSD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that you would in theory want an SSD with [SLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell), however, they are more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example a search on newegg.com for SLC in the range $100-200 resulted in 1 match&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WD Green M.2 2280 240GB Internal SSD ($147.96)&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD7H5JF6834&#xD;&#xA;* disclaimer I do not use newegg but that was the only international product comparison search I knew that has &quot;power search&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, given your intended use, a [MLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell) based SSD should suffice. A search for MLC in the same range resulted in numerous products. The linked Wikipedia article even states that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In February 2016, a study was published that showed little difference in practice between the reliability of SLC and MLC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(referencing Bianca Schroeder and Arif Merchant (February 22, 2016). &quot;Flash Reliability in Production: The Expected and the Unexpected&quot;. Conference on File and Storage Technologies. Usenix. Retrieved November 3, 2016.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also need to ensure that the SSD you purchase support&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... the ATA_TRIM command for sustained long-term performance and wear-leveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing that I am aware of when using SSD with Linux is to ensure that the file system you use for the SSD supports TRIM. See the referenced archlinux link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your intended use I would say any SSD with SATA revision 3.0 (&quot;SATA 3&quot; or &quot;SATA III&quot;) interface should perform well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; You could say the maximum for SATA revision 3.0 is 6Gb/s, and that the maximum for SATA revision 3.2 is 16Gb/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally run an external SSD with USB 3.0 (can transfer data at up to 5 Gbit/s that is 625 MB/s according to Wikipedia) from where amongst other things I run virtual machines (Windows 7, Linux). For your stated uses I doubt you will have any performance issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to narrow down your search (MLC) in an effort to improve performance then I would recommend considering an SSD with NVMe interface if your motherboard supports it. The same search on newegg adding &quot;PCI-Express 3.0 x4&quot; narrows the search down to about 20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend searching for reviews or comparison videos for more specific examples. My favorite is &quot;NVMe SSD Review - Which Should You Buy? - 2017 Edition&quot;. Notice what he says in the beginning of the review; NVMe is for high-end machines; for mid-range computer see his &quot;SATA SSD&quot; review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqaZTwW_X2o&amp;index=3&amp;list=LLWZTE9hZO-zwSYsFBwqG2Rw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading Digital Boffon's comment I remembered that I forgot to mention something about read-write operations -- which would have basically been the same tl;dr as the answer Buffon referenced&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, there's a limit, but you needn't worry about it. You simply won't be able to perform enough read/write operations before you run out of capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My source however was http ://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26066" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8267" RevisionGUID="5c2dab41-d80a-4af7-9bdc-89630eb8848f" CreationDate="2017-10-20T21:18:42.790" UserId="7032" Comment="edited body" Text="Main uses would be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux OS&#xD;&#xA;* Programming (C++)&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;while your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* reliability&#xD;&#xA;* price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want an internal SSD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that you would in theory want an SSD with [SLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell), however, they are more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example a search on newegg.com for SLC in the range $100-200 resulted in 1 match&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* WD Green M.2 2280 240GB Internal SSD ($147.96)&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD7H5JF6834&#xD;&#xA;* disclaimer I do not use newegg but that was the only international product comparison search I knew that has &quot;power search&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, given your intended use, a [MLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell) based SSD should suffice. A search for MLC in the same range resulted in numerous products. The linked Wikipedia article even states that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In February 2016, a study was published that showed little difference in practice between the reliability of SLC and MLC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(referencing Bianca Schroeder and Arif Merchant (February 22, 2016). &quot;Flash Reliability in Production: The Expected and the Unexpected&quot;. Conference on File and Storage Technologies. Usenix. Retrieved November 3, 2016.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also need to ensure that the SSD you purchase support&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... the ATA_TRIM command for sustained long-term performance and wear-leveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing that I am aware of when using SSD with Linux is to ensure that the file system you use for the SSD supports TRIM. See the referenced archlinux link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your intended use I would say any SSD with SATA revision 3.0 (&quot;SATA 3&quot; or &quot;SATA III&quot;) interface should perform well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; You could say the maximum for SATA revision 3.0 is 6Gb/s, and that the maximum for SATA revision 3.2 is 16Gb/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally run an external SSD with USB 3.0 (can transfer data at up to 5 Gbit/s that is 625 MB/s according to Wikipedia) from where amongst other things I run virtual machines (Windows 7, Linux). For your stated uses I doubt you will have any performance issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to narrow down your search (MLC) in an effort to improve performance then I would recommend considering an SSD with NVMe interface if your motherboard supports it. The same search on newegg adding &quot;PCI-Express 3.0 x4&quot; narrows the search down to about 20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend searching for reviews or comparison videos for more specific examples. My favorite is &quot;NVMe SSD Review - Which Should You Buy? - 2017 Edition&quot;. Notice what he says in the beginning of the review; NVMe is for high-end machines; for mid-range computer see his &quot;SATA SSD&quot; review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqaZTwW_X2o&amp;index=3&amp;list=LLWZTE9hZO-zwSYsFBwqG2Rw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading Digital Boffon's comment I remembered that I forgot to mention something about read-write operations -- which would have basically been the same tl;dr as the answer Boffon referenced&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, there's a limit, but you needn't worry about it. You simply won't be able to perform enough read/write operations before you run out of capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My source however was http ://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8270" RevisionGUID="b1fa1701-e6fe-4518-a345-6132ce5a9491" CreationDate="2017-10-21T08:13:58.880" UserId="7176" Text="I am planning to buy a new monitor, QHD resolution (1440p) and 60Hz, for a desktop computer. Ideally, it should also be possible to use the same display with a couple of laptops: An early 2017 XPS 13 and a late 2016 MacBook pro, both of which have Thunderbolt 3 ports. I am ok with connecting and disconnecting a cable or two when changing the display from desktop to laptop and back, if needed.&#xA;&#xA;I have found Thunderbolt 3 docking stations that solve the connectivity issue for the laptops, but these are expensive (over 200 euros). I have also found Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C to HDMI adapters, but these seem to be unable to drive a QHD display at 60Hz. I have not found any Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C to Displayport adapters -- do they exist?&#xA;&#xA;What are my options for connecting the laptops without degrading the resolution or refresh rate for the monitor? Keep in mind that I have not chosen a monitor yet, so if specific connectors on the monitor are helpful, that may be possible to achieve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8270" RevisionGUID="b1fa1701-e6fe-4518-a345-6132ce5a9491" CreationDate="2017-10-21T08:13:58.880" UserId="7176" Text="Connecting thunderbolt 3 laptops to QHD display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8270" RevisionGUID="b1fa1701-e6fe-4518-a345-6132ce5a9491" CreationDate="2017-10-21T08:13:58.880" UserId="7176" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8271" RevisionGUID="eafad8a1-4fc1-4441-b499-ebe0cdfabbf9" CreationDate="2017-10-21T11:10:31.077" UserId="1410" Text="A UK-based friend has asked my to recommend a single access control system for a members club/bar* with a single door. (* despite the &quot;home-security&quot; tag).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an existing system with RFID card based entry, but the suppliers are now asking for GBP 20 for each new card. (I will ask them to try a few different cards which I supply; unless there is a range of acceptable numbers, that should work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: as cheap as possible, max &quot;a few hundred GBP&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - card based entry&#xD;&#xA; - easily installed&#xD;&#xA; - easily administered by non-tech people (we can assume average Windows/Android knowledge) &#xD;&#xA; - uses cheap, easily obtainable RFID cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - fingerprint based entry&#xD;&#xA; - possibly face recognition? If so, optional on a per-member basis, as should be fingerprinting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it, the current system requires a PC (windows 95 based is currently being used :-), but I see no reason that the new one should have to, unless this makes it easier for the users (club secretary/committee members). It might also add expense if a Widows 10 PC must be purchased (and I don't know what legacy software they might be running on that Windows 95 PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only entry is required, no time-keeping, or even record keeping, but such an over-spec'ed system is acceptable if extra features don't get in the way of &quot;the door should open to members and to no one else&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suppose that they would have to fit a new lock to the door?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can look around AliExpress, but would prefer a recommendation, preferably from someone with experience of this sort of thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8271" RevisionGUID="eafad8a1-4fc1-4441-b499-ebe0cdfabbf9" CreationDate="2017-10-21T11:10:31.077" UserId="1410" Text="Access control system for a club" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8271" RevisionGUID="eafad8a1-4fc1-4441-b499-ebe0cdfabbf9" CreationDate="2017-10-21T11:10:31.077" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26081" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8132" RevisionGUID="b1e0921e-1fb9-483f-b5c0-67b04cc51763" CreationDate="2017-10-21T12:48:26.737" UserId="7032" Comment="Fixed the links." Text="**UPDATE 1, 2, 3 at the end**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first post on Hardware Recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Incidentally, my question also pertains to my first time building a &quot;computer&quot;. So heads up, there will be many factual errors and misconceptions henceforth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is what would be an appropriate CPU and GPU for the given task described in the section *Background* below; to summarize: general purpose tasks, entertainment/media and development (programming, compiling, virtualization), but no high-end gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Outset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have with the help of online guides come to the conclusion that Intel CPUs provide a good combination of computational power, low power consumption and heat output. I decided to begin from the &quot;socket-end&quot; and search for CPUs that were available and within my budget (see below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am having is that I cannot differentiate the prospective CPUs as which ones are the most appropriate for my build; I simply cannot comprehend how they would perform. I have looked at &quot;benchmarks&quot; but the numbers are not helping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* http://browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most guides and questions I have found are centered around either &quot;gaming&quot; or &quot;servers&quot;, sometimes touching upon terminal servers, but always oriented towards budget builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I would like a recommendation for a CPU and GPU either**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a concrete model either from the given *candidates* below or other suggestions.&#xD;&#xA; 2. or what other technical aspects or considerations I should evaluate in order to filter out the given candidates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate concrete cases or other examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that the CPU in itself does not a guarantee or is the sole factor for the performance of a computer system; the primary and secondary memories are as an example equally important, and the ability for the software to utilize the benefits of high-end components another. The question is about *selecting* an appropriate CPU [to build the rest of the computer around; the first stop being the GPU].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# The candidates&#xD;&#xA;## GPU&#xD;&#xA;I am currently still reading about &quot;video|graphic cards&quot;, although I do not expect the need for a high-end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## CPU&#xD;&#xA;**All candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86_64&#xD;&#xA; - Intel EPT, Intel VT-d, Intel VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Intel SpeedStep, TurboBoost&#xD;&#xA; - 14nm (with the exception for Core i7 4790K; 22nm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The Xeon candidates**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - supports EEC&#xD;&#xA; - E5-2608Lv4 and E5-2620v4 are limited to the instruction sets: AVX2, TSX and AVX2, TSX.&#xD;&#xA; - [W-2125](https://ark.intel.com/products/126708/Intel-Xeon-Processor-W-2125-8_25M-Cache-4_00-GHz) is launched but not yet available on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Core i7 4790K**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The only CPU with an integrated graphics chip (Intel HD Graphics 4600)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Overview&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+----------------------------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;             Socket |    LGA 1150   |             LGA 1151             |            LGA 2013-3            |                LGA 2066       |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                    | Core i7 4790K | Xeon E3-1260Lv5 | Xeon E3-1240v6 | Xeon E5-2608Lv4 | Xeon E5-2620v4 | i7 7740X X-series | W-2125    |&#xD;&#xA;                    |     (Box)     |     (Tray)      |      (Box)     |      (Tray)     |  (Box / Tray)  | (Box w/o cooler)  |           |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;              Price |     ~€$350    |             ~€$300               |              ~€$400              |      ~€$300       | ~$€$400?  |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                TDP |       88 W    |       45 W      |      72 W      |       50 W      |       85 W     |      112 W        |  120 W    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;                GHz |      4,0G     |       2,9       |      3,7       |        1,6      |       2,1      |        4,3        |  4.00     |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;        Core/Thread |                     4 / 8                        |               8 / 16             |              4 / 8            |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L2 Cache |              1 MB               |       ?        |          ?      |       2 MB     |        1 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------------------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;           L3 Cache |                      8 MB                        |               20 MB              |        8 MB       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;          Bus speed |     5 GT/s    |              8 GT/s              |      6.4 GT/s   |              8 GT/s                |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;      &quot;CPU Mark&quot;[1] |     11 192    |      10 067     |     11 503     |         ?       |      11 427    |      12 323       |    ???    |&#xD;&#xA;                    +---------------+-----------------+----------------+-----------------+----------------+-------------------+-----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;\[2\] **cpubenchmark.net/**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Comment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand the Intel sockets, the LGA 115x are targeted towards consumers and hobbyists. The LGA 1150 is obsolete and replaced by LGA 1151. The LGA 2013-3 is aimed towards professionals and high performance and is now superseded by LGA 2066.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered the following selections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #1 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 1150)&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning behind this option is to go with a decent system (I think), which can be discarded completely in favor for a future build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #2 &quot;middle-end system&quot; (LGA 1151)&#xD;&#xA;The LGA 1151 was the initial socket I settled on. The problem is that the only E3 processors left are the ones listed in the table above, and I cannot figure out if any of them would be a good choice or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #3 &quot;end-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2013-3)&#xD;&#xA;Basically the same idea as with Selection #1 but more power/expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Selection #4 &quot;start-of-the-line system&quot; (LGA 2066)&#xD;&#xA;The last option is to wait for the &quot;Xeon W-2125&quot; or use a &quot;stand-in&quot; CPU for the moment, thus, the inclusion of the `i7 7740X X-series`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Background&#xD;&#xA;## The task&#xD;&#xA;The aim is to build a &quot;terminal server&quot; that fulfills the following requirements: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - seamless performance: the client should &quot;feel&quot; like working on &quot;an ordinary computer&quot;. This requirement is of utmost importance.&#xD;&#xA; - low energy consumption: as the terminal server could be active for longer periods of time keeping the cost for electricity should be kept low.&#xD;&#xA; - low heat :  mainly in order to keep noise down when selecting a cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The terminal server is intended for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;general use&quot;, such as, document management (many documents at the same time), email, “web surfing” (many tabs open at the same time), watching HD videos,[*]&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;server use&quot; for internal media streaming and stand-in server when needing access over Internet,&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;development&quot;, which could require for example more intense I/O operations and calculations, and running tests in virtualized environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*] I do not expect more than 1080 but do not wish to preclude the possibilities of higher modes in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose is to centralize administration over devices and access to resources. The focus here is not the client platforms, which are planned to boot using PXE over network&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PXE&#xD;&#xA; - http://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/97/recommendations-of-thin-clients-running-ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Miscellaneous&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server will run on a Linux distribution.&#xD;&#xA;- Number of connected thin clients: 2 (should be able to handle 4)&#xD;&#xA;- Number of monitors for each client: 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;- The terminal server is not intended for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;- The storage device will be a SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;The cost should preferably max out around €500 or $500 for the CPU. I think the GPU should not be as expensive as its main function is to offload the CPU during certain tasks when necessary, such as, video transcoding (see below *Rationale*).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Rationale&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of a CPU in a terminal server is that it functions somewhere between a server (many cores to serve many users) and a workstation (more powerful in order to serve applications to those users).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; think of terminal server performance as any other computer. the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; workload is very important. are you going to use it for word, excel&#xD;&#xA;&gt; and email, are you going to use it for auto cad, or some web based&#xD;&#xA;&gt; app? determine the hardware requirements for 1 user, multiply by&#xD;&#xA;&gt; number of users and add 20-50% for future proofing is a good way to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; determine what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2852594/terminal-server-performance-cores-hyperthreading-mem-controllers-nehalem-westmere.html&#xD;&#xA; - Cf http://superuser.com/questions/760618/choosing-processors-for-terminal-server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding of how a Terminal Server works is the reason for why I wish to add a GPU in addition to a CPU. A Terminal Server has to its disposal an amount of computer power (CPU/GPU) which is pooled between the clients. All actual processing of data is done on the Terminal Server and the resulting data output is transferred to the client. For example, rendering an 3D -object to a bitmap representation which is transferred to the client. The client then simply displays the output if it has the resources. For example, If the client does not have HD support, it cannot playback a HD video; the server has to offer a lower resolution, for example by transcoding on the fly. Please correct me if I am wrong.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://superuser.com/questions/836821/can-an-ltsp-server-use-a-gpu-for-client-rendering&#xD;&#xA; - http://serverfault.com/questions/215316/is-having-a-high-end-video-card-important-on-a-server?newreg=6eae065071cf446e91ba24c2ceed3e7b&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that one exception would be RemoteFX, where the thin client can render graphics using the GPU on the [terminal] server, but as far as I can tell Linux does not support such technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 1&#xD;&#xA;I have added a row at the end of the CPU comparison table above with the &quot;CPU Mark&quot; results from the &quot;cpubenchmark&quot; website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://servethehome.com/intel-xeon-e3-1240-v6-linux-benchmarks-review-first-kaby-lake-xeon-e3-cpu/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Selection #4* is for the moment abandoned for two reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. given my experience, and that it is &quot;new technology&quot;, it may be prudent to wait until the market has saturated,&#xD;&#xA;2. it may be too powerful for my requirements; outbalancing the power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, I am leaning towards selection #2*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading some Xeon E3 reviews; the Xeon E3-1260Lv5 seems to provide a good trade-off between computation power and power usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a most on-topic discussion worth quoting in length&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://forums.lime-technology.com/topic/52418-motherboardcpu-initial-unraid-server/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... [I] want to start a NAS that allows me to re-use my bunch of 3 TB&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drives (5) and offers great flexibility. This could be cheap and old&#xD;&#xA;&gt; HW reuse, but I do want to put some load on the server as well...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Plex with 2-4 simultaneous Transcoding up to 1080p, no 4K in the foreseeable future of 3 years...&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Some docker containers such as Plex, or some research VMs (No Gaming) for Linux/Win&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Support for 10-14 Drives including parity, cache and SSDs (Docker, VM)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Headless would be nice as the box would not be at the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - less power consumption over high performance and high idle consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - system might idle 50-70% of the 24h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... CPU Passmarks [cpubenchmark] are your friend.  The rule of thumb&#xD;&#xA;&gt; is 2,000 Passmarks per simultaneous 1080p stream in Plex when&#xD;&#xA;&gt; transcoding is required.  Do you need transcoding?  If so, and leaving&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some CPU for unRAID and Dockers, you'll need a 9,000 - 10,000 Passmark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU which is fairly high end - Core i7 or Xeon territory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... E3 is a nice compromise of horsepower and lower power usage if you&#xD;&#xA;&gt; don't really need all the cores and PCIex lanes of an E5, but you can&#xD;&#xA;&gt; build a great server box with an E5 if you want to go that way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I think they both deliver as promised.  Note that the E3-1260L v5 is&#xD;&#xA;&gt; designed for low power operation (TDP 45w), so it's inherently more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; efficient than it's higher powered &quot;cousin&quot;.  But most significantly&#xD;&#xA;&gt; vis-à-vis their relative PassMark calculations -- the PassMark&#xD;&#xA;&gt; benchmark is by nature CPU intensive ... and this is exactly when the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Intel CPU's will bump up the clock to their &quot;turbo&quot; frequencies to&#xD;&#xA;&gt; gain maximum &quot;horsepower&quot;.  Note that although the 1260L's base&#xD;&#xA;&gt; frequency is only 2.9GHz (compared to a base frequency of 3.6GHz for&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 1275);  the Turbo frequency is 3.9GHz ... nearly equal to the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 4.0GHz turbo frequency for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the PassMark performance test is run, clearly either CPU will&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ramp up to Turbo speed -- thus the very close performance figures. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; And the 1260L will do it more efficiently ... consuming a max of 45w&#xD;&#xA;&gt; compared to 80w for the 1275.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &amp;nbsp;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  Very similar performance (9629 vs 10067 PassMark ... favor of the 1260L) &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L much more power efficient (45w TDP vs 80w) &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  1260L has a slightly higher turbo speed for single core; slightly lower when all cores are in turbo mode .. probably a wash &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; =&gt;  As you've noted the 1230 is less expensive&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Personally, I'd go for the 1260L, just for the better efficiency. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; It'll run cooler; can ramp up to the same performance level while&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drawing just over half the power; and in the great scheme of things a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 50€ difference is really irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# UPDATE 3&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to the GPU, it seems that I have to reconsider somethings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the following. although from 2006,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://forums.anandtech.com/threads/thin-clients-and-gpus.1964071/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, video cards on either end won't matter, everything is rendered on the server and pumped over the network to the client so the client just gets a bitmap from the server. Just install VNC on a box and then connect to it with the VNC client to get an idea of what we're talking about, Citrix and RDP are both faster and more effecient than VNC but the idea is similar. &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The key points:&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Server &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Very important &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Very important  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Client &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; CPU: Low importance  &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LAN: Moderate importance &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; GPU: Irrelevant&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this is correct, I need to reconsider the terminal/client allocation of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The alternative is to setup a &quot;Virtualized GPU&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://brianmadden.com/opinion/NVIDIA-AMD-and-Intel-How-they-do-their-GPU-virtualization&#xD;&#xA; - http://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PCI_passthrough_via_OVMF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case, I have consider a &quot;Hypervisors&quot; implementation for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In either case, I believe my answer is at the next stop: Super User :)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26083" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8267" RevisionGUID="8601c269-97c4-4aec-9db2-b10d33313dd6" CreationDate="2017-10-21T12:58:22.307" UserId="7032" Comment="Fixed the links." Text="Main uses would be&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Linux OS&#xD;&#xA;* Programming (C++)&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;while your requirements are&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* reliability&#xD;&#xA;* price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you want an internal SSD,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say that you would in theory want an SSD with [SLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell#Single-level_cell), however, they are more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example a search on newegg.com for SLC in the range $100-200 resulted in 1 match&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [WD Green M.2 2280 240GB Internal SSD ($147.96)](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD7H5JF6834)&#xD;&#xA;* disclaimer I do not use newegg but that was the only international product comparison search I knew that has &quot;power search&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, given your intended use, a [MLC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell#Multi-level_cell) based SSD should suffice. A search for MLC in the same range resulted in numerous products. The linked Wikipedia article even states that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In February 2016, a study was published that showed little difference in practice between the reliability of SLC and MLC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(referencing Bianca Schroeder and Arif Merchant (February 22, 2016). &quot;Flash Reliability in Production: The Expected and the Unexpected&quot;. Conference on File and Storage Technologies. Usenix. Retrieved November 3, 2016.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also need to ensure that the SSD you purchase support&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... the ATA_TRIM command for sustained long-term performance and wear-leveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing that I am aware of when using SSD with Linux is to ensure that the file system you use for the SSD supports TRIM. See the referenced [archlinux link on SSD](https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your intended use I would say any SSD with SATA revision 3.0 (&quot;SATA 3&quot; or &quot;SATA III&quot;) interface should perform well enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; You could say the maximum for SATA revision 3.0 is 6Gb/s, and that the maximum for SATA revision 3.2 is 16Gb/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally run an external SSD with USB 3.0 (can transfer data at up to 5 Gbit/s that is 625 MB/s according to Wikipedia) from where amongst other things I run virtual machines (Windows 7, Linux). For your stated uses I doubt you will have any performance issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to narrow down your search (MLC) in an effort to improve performance then I would recommend considering an SSD with [NVMe](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express) interface if your motherboard supports it. The same search on newegg adding &quot;PCI-Express 3.0 x4&quot; narrows the search down to about 20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend searching for reviews or comparison videos for more specific examples. My favorite is [NVMe SSD Review - Which Should You Buy? - 2017 Edition](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqaZTwW_X2o&amp;index=3&amp;list=LLWZTE9hZO-zwSYsFBwqG2Rw). Notice what he says in the beginning of the review; NVMe is for high-end machines; for mid-range computer see his &quot;SATA SSD&quot; review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading Digital Boffon's comment I remembered that I forgot to mention something about read-write operations -- which would have basically been the same tl;dr as the answer Boffon referenced&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Yes, there's a limit, but you needn't worry about it. You simply won't be able to perform enough read/write operations before you run out of capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My source however was *[&quot;The SSD Endurance Experiment: They're all dead&#xD;&#xA;This is the end, beautiful friend&quot; by Geoff Gasior — 10:22 AM on March 12, 2015*](http://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8264" RevisionGUID="e68b1b95-e568-421c-b636-4e1963f10eca" CreationDate="2017-10-21T13:07:26.363" UserId="7032" Comment="Fixed the links." Text="I am to purchase RAM for my newly purchased&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ASUS P10S-M WS/IPMI-O](https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P10S-M-WS-IPMI-O) that supports `4 x DIMM, Max. 64GB, DDR4 2400/2133 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory Dual Channel Memory Architecture`&#xD;&#xA;* and [Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1260L v5](https://ark.intel.com/products/88175/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1260L-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz) that supports `64 GB DDR4-1866/2133, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V ECC`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to max out the memory to 64GB and planned to puchase four &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `16GB ECC unbuffered/UNB/UDIMM` RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The memory I am interested in is &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [`Samsung 288pin DDR4 Unbuffered DIMM based on 16Gb` (`M391A2K43BB1`)](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/products/dram/pc-dram/ddr4-unbuffered-dimm/M391A2K43BB1?ia=2428)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question is whether the SAMSUNG memory is compatible with the ASUS motherboard.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Samsung's `Support &gt; Tools &amp; Utilities &gt; Board Compatibility`](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/support/tools-utilities/board-compatibility/) is not helpful, and strangely does not even list DDR4 memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [QVL (Qualified Vendor List)](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M_WS/QVL/ESC500_G4_SFF_ESC510_G4_SFF_Series_Memory_20170929.pdf) for memory from ASUS does not list `M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two other Samsung memories are however listed `16GB DDR4-2400 Non-ECC/UNB` and &#xD;&#xA;`8GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15`; the first not fit for the CPU, and the second will only max out to 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only two vendors that are on the list with an acceptable memory specification `16GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15` are INNODISK and Skhynix. Neither of which are available to me for purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found however that the [QVL for memory for the ASUS P10S-M motherboard](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M/QVL/P10S-M_Memory_AVL_20170407.pdf?_ga=2.15965302.1379982056.1508591035-1647655427.1508499099) lists the `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the *memory chip* for the listed `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB` is the same memory chip listed for the INNODISK memory chip; `Samsung K4A8G085WB-BCPB`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; There are multiple memory companies on the market, but only a few true memory manufacturing companies. When researching different memory brands, you may run across companies that claim to be memory manufacturers, when they're really just module assemblers. How these companies work is that they purchase pre-manufactured parts (such as DRAM chips and printed circuit board) from true memory manufacturers, and then assemble these components to “manufacture” a module with their label on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [The truth about memory manufacturers](http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/store-truth-about-memory-manufacturers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I understand correctly, the listed `P10S-M WS/IPM-O` INNODB `M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93` is actually more or less the same memory as `Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB`?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if they would differ for some reason, I am having a very difficult time to accept that the `M391A2K43BB1-CPB` -- or really any other memory -- will be incompatible with the motherboard save for some edge cases, such as incorrect manufacturing or assembling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is my first build it would be assuring if someone could confirm my conclusion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26096" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="3ca87e60-8d84-44df-91b2-a9026990121a" CreationDate="2017-10-22T01:06:44.847" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8277" RevisionGUID="e85b24cd-85d7-4b57-85cc-3ee599121abf" CreationDate="2017-10-22T10:35:43.840" UserId="7075" Text="I answered a similar question [here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8233/pc-suggestion-for-video-editing/8255#8255) and I think [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/K3HGyf) would be great for apps you are using. I didn't include the OS and an HDD/SSD since you didn't really specify. You can also reduce the price by purchasing a cheaper PC Case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="fde58d59-9996-4162-b051-a3a61c6e4644" CreationDate="2017-10-22T12:30:11.883" UserId="1410" Comment="added 67 characters in body; edited title" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a full 9 bit UART (with no bit stuffing, or tricks with the parity bit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 9 bit UART should preferably be on-board, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26102" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="fde58d59-9996-4162-b051-a3a61c6e4644" CreationDate="2017-10-22T12:30:11.883" UserId="1410" Comment="added 67 characters in body; edited title" Text="Small, cheap processor with true 9 bit UART and drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8279" RevisionGUID="93ff9500-ba25-4d7e-ab6b-bfc8638b3db3" CreationDate="2017-10-22T14:16:48.333" UserId="7032" Text="The question [What exactly is the cause of RAM incompatibility?](https://superuser.com/questions/1250578/what-exactly-is-the-cause-of-ram-incompatibility) on superuser provides a good overview of possible causes for incompatibility. The answers to the question provide some interesting reasoning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;You might have two RAM sticks with the same part number and one can tolerate a 5% undervoltage and the other can't, and the mobo might put out a low voltage because it's poorly calibrated.&#xD;&#xA;But, again, this is very rare now. Sane combinations almost always work.&#xD;&#xA;Before DDR2, it was a mess. After DDR2, it was sufficiently standardized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the follow up discussion https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These days, it's almost always the obvious incompatibilities. That is, if it doesn't work, you can usually figure out why. When you can't, the most likely explanation is that some part is just crappy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;In the old days, weird incompatibilities were not that unusual. But since the DDR2 standard, cases of incompatibility not involving one of the explanations mentioned are fairly rare. Most of those cases are likely to be components that are not quite meeting their specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I built many systems throughout my career and I have not once looked at the supported RAM list before I chose the components. And I have never had any incompatibilities so far. That being said, the list can give guidance to beginners and less experienced people to select the correct components to build a good working system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The answer lies within the memory controller. The memory controller used to be on the north-bridge of the motherboard. It had to negotiate all the features that the CPU supported for direct memory access. So the CPU is really the determining factor that limited what memory you could use even though it appeared to be a motherboard capability. This is more obvious now that the memory controller lives inside the CPU in all modern chips made by Intel, AMD, and ARM. The motherboard firmware contains microcode from the CPU manufacturer that dictates what kind of features for direct memory access it supports. So the software still lives in the motherboard but the hardware is in the CPU now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The clocking of CPU and Memory are directly linked through the Base Clock. They have to be multiples of each other in sync. Aside from that the details of Direct Memory Access are non-trivial and I will not attempt to explain here. My understanding is that just like MB and CPU manufacturers have different implementations and features, so do different memory modules. Within one memory manufacturer, like Kingston, the actual chips could be made by Samsung, Hynix, or someone else. They should all follow a spec but maybe they don't implement every feature the same way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While no answer was accepted, one was given the &quot;bounty&quot;; https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206. The answer provides some examples of what may cause incompatibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* (Could not find the specification for INNODISK)&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung datasheet 288pin Unbuffered DIMM &#xD;&#xA;based on 8Gb B-die](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/global/file/product/2017/02/M391A1K43BB1-4.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;* [SK hynix DDR4 SDRAM Unbuffered DIMM Based on 8Gb M-die](http://www.skhynix.com/product/filedata/fileDownload.do?seq=7112)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to create a comparison table. Mainly for the fun of it :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My best [uninformed] guess is that with the new CPUs, motherboards and memories the main criteria for memory compatibility is the common referred specifications, and any incompatibility issue is mainly due to &quot;bad luck&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                |      INNODISK      |      SK HYNIX      |      SAMSUNG     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                | M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93 | HMA82GU7MFR8N-TFT0 | M391A2K43BB1-CPB |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |   (revision 1.2)   |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        chipset |  K4A8G085WB-BCPB   |  H5AN8G8NMFR-TFC   |K4A8G085WB-BCPBM00|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       bandwith |     2133 MT/s      |      2133 MT/s     |     2133 MT/s    |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      frequency |                    |                    |      1066MHz     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        voltage |        1.2         |         1.2        |        1.2       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;           rank |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        density |       16GB         |     16GB (2Rx8)    |    16GB (2Gx72)  |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |1Gx8(H5AN8G8NMFR)*18|1Gx8(K4A8G085WB-BC##)*18|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        timings |====================+====================+==================|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;     cycle time |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tCK(min) |                    |       0.937        |       0.938      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;             CL |         15         |         15         |        15        |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRCD(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRP(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRAS(min) |                    |         33         |         33       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRC(min) |                    |    47.06 (46.50)   |       47.06      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;            CMD |                    |                    |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8279" RevisionGUID="0e10215d-4721-4119-ac81-0594b6560638" CreationDate="2017-10-22T14:23:53.840" UserId="7032" Comment="edited body" Text="The question [What exactly is the cause of RAM incompatibility?](https://superuser.com/questions/1250578/what-exactly-is-the-cause-of-ram-incompatibility) on superuser provides a good overview of possible causes for incompatibility. The answers to the question provide some interesting reasoning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;You might have two RAM sticks with the same part number and one can tolerate a 5% undervoltage and the other can't, and the mobo might put out a low voltage because it's poorly calibrated.&#xD;&#xA;But, again, this is very rare now. Sane combinations almost always work.&#xD;&#xA;Before DDR2, it was a mess. After DDR2, it was sufficiently standardized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the follow up discussion https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These days, it's almost always the obvious incompatibilities. That is, if it doesn't work, you can usually figure out why. When you can't, the most likely explanation is that some part is just crappy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;In the old days, weird incompatibilities were not that unusual. But since the DDR2 standard, cases of incompatibility not involving one of the explanations mentioned are fairly rare. Most of those cases are likely to be components that are not quite meeting their specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I built many systems throughout my career and I have not once looked at the supported RAM list before I chose the components. And I have never had any incompatibilities so far. That being said, the list can give guidance to beginners and less experienced people to select the correct components to build a good working system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The answer lies within the memory controller. The memory controller used to be on the north-bridge of the motherboard. It had to negotiate all the features that the CPU supported for direct memory access. So the CPU is really the determining factor that limited what memory you could use even though it appeared to be a motherboard capability. This is more obvious now that the memory controller lives inside the CPU in all modern chips made by Intel, AMD, and ARM. The motherboard firmware contains microcode from the CPU manufacturer that dictates what kind of features for direct memory access it supports. So the software still lives in the motherboard but the hardware is in the CPU now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The clocking of CPU and Memory are directly linked through the Base Clock. They have to be multiples of each other in sync. Aside from that the details of Direct Memory Access are non-trivial and I will not attempt to explain here. My understanding is that just like MB and CPU manufacturers have different implementations and features, so do different memory modules. Within one memory manufacturer, like Kingston, the actual chips could be made by Samsung, Hynix, or someone else. They should all follow a spec but maybe they don't implement every feature the same way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While no answer was accepted, one was given the &quot;bounty&quot;; https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206. The answer provides some examples of what may cause incompatibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* (Could not find the specification for INNODISK)&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung datasheet 288pin Unbuffered DIMM &#xD;&#xA;based on 8Gb B-die](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/global/file/product/2017/02/M391A1K43BB1-4.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;* [SK hynix DDR4 SDRAM Unbuffered DIMM Based on 8Gb M-die](http://www.skhynix.com/product/filedata/fileDownload.do?seq=7112)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to create a comparison table. Mainly for the fun of it :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My best [uninformed] guess is that with the new CPUs, motherboards and memories the main criteria for memory compatibility is the common referred specifications, and any incompatibility issue is mainly due to &quot;bad luck&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                |      INNODISK      |      SK HYNIX      |      SAMSUNG     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                | M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93 | HMA82GU7MFR8N-TFT0 | M391A2K43BB1-CPB |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |   (revision 1.2)   |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        chipset |  K4A8G085WB-BCPB   |  H5AN8G8NMFR-TFC   |K4A8G085WB-BCPBM00|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       bandwith |     2133 MT/s      |      2133 MT/s     |     2133 MT/s    |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      frequency |    (1066.67MHz)    |    (1066.67MHz)    |      1066MHz     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        voltage |        1.2         |         1.2        |        1.2       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;           rank |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        density |       16GB         |     16GB (2Rx8)    |    16GB (2Gx72)  |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |1Gx8(H5AN8G8NMFR)*18|1Gx8(K4A8G085WB-BC##)*18|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        timings |====================+====================+==================|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;     cycle time |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tCK(min) |                    |       0.937        |       0.938      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;             CL |         15         |         15         |        15        |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRCD(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRP(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRAS(min) |                    |         33         |         33       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRC(min) |                    |    47.06 (46.50)   |       47.06      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;            CMD |                    |                    |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26109" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="f974e381-34e4-4c4e-9793-4527f7a67f6a" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:13:51.830" UserId="7184" Text="I am looking for an SDHC for my Wii.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nintendo's site suggests that any SDHC up to 32 GB should (but is not guaranteed to) work (http://tinyurl.com/yaltr3h4), while other sources imply that the file format matters if you want to use the SD card out of the box without modifying it, which is what I want to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do all SDHC cards of size 32 GB or less use a FAT/FAT32 file format? I was looking at this one, as it appears to be the fastest 32 GB card available (that I could find, at least): http://tinyurl.com/y7x4wmrj Would this card work out of the box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26110" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="f974e381-34e4-4c4e-9793-4527f7a67f6a" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:13:51.830" UserId="7184" Text="SDHC for the Wii" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26111" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="f974e381-34e4-4c4e-9793-4527f7a67f6a" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:13:51.830" UserId="7184" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8128" RevisionGUID="208b1ba8-d831-4e54-805d-f329fc6720cd" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:20:18.263" UserId="7033" Comment="add OnePlus 5" Text="**Xiaomi Redmi Note 4** (150$ with free shipping to the USA, no idea about possibly additional customs duty) and other Xiaomi devices. Note that some other Xiaomi devices are not supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated (see question for meaning) good, but needs executable from vendor for Windows (bad). I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported. This is a recent device, as opposed to most devices supported by LinageOS which are older.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wileyfox Swift** or the AFAIK worse Wileyfox Storm, but not newer devices (i.e. not Swift 2 or similar) from Wileyfox as they stopped their upstream support for LinageOS. Unlocking rated best with `fastboot oem unlock`. It has an SD card slot, supports 10 touch points, 2 SIM card slots. They are not manufactured any more so you can only buy them from resellers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Huawei Honor 5X** and other Huawei devices. Note that newer Huawei devices are not yet supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good with secret used with `fastboot oem unlock SecretHere`. I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably more devices which fit your requirements, especially when buying older ones. Some phones can not be found on e.g. Amazon, but are much easier to come by from AliExpress, though you may need to additionally pay customs duty. [LinageOS has a list with devices that they officially support.][1] The installation instructions from LinageOS explain in more detail what steps are needed to unlock each device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of your requirement for an SD card slot the following ones do not qualify which otherwise would:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Google branded phones which are unlocking rated best, but which also cost much more.&#xD;&#xA; - OnePlus 5 and other OnePlus devices are unlocking reated best, but also cost more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8281" RevisionGUID="9d7a12f8-a78f-4a68-bb47-e8c1dbdcc459" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:28:06.513" UserId="578" Text="That card will work, but it's a UHS-II card and the Wii does not support UHS-II, so it can't use the high speeds offered by this card. In fact, the Wii is old enough that even UHS-I cards can't run at their full speed. You'd be overpaying for technology that the console can't use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd probably suggest something like [this SanDisk Ultra card][1]. They're generally reliable and are decent performers even in devices that don't have UHS support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Wikipedia has more information on SD card speeds.][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Class-Memory-SDSDUNC-032G-GN6IN/dp/B0143RT8OY/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Speeds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8128" RevisionGUID="b4209fff-26ef-436c-b5ce-d2b20bd6c32f" CreationDate="2017-10-22T15:36:12.497" UserId="7033" Comment="typo" Text="**Xiaomi Redmi Note 4** (150$ with free shipping to the USA, no idea about possibly additional customs duty) and other Xiaomi devices. Note that some other Xiaomi devices are not supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated (see question for meaning) good, but needs executable from vendor for Windows (bad). I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported. This is a recent device, as opposed to most devices supported by LinageOS which are older.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wileyfox Swift** or the AFAIK worse Wileyfox Storm, but not newer devices (i.e. not Swift 2 or similar) from Wileyfox as they stopped their upstream support for LinageOS. Unlocking rated best with `fastboot oem unlock`. It has an SD card slot, supports 10 touch points, 2 SIM card slots. They are not manufactured any more so you can only buy them from resellers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Huawei Honor 5X** and other Huawei devices. Note that newer Huawei devices are not yet supported by LinageOS. Unlocking rated good with secret used with `fastboot oem unlock SecretHere`. I couldn't find documentation on how many touch points are supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are probably more devices which fit your requirements, especially when buying older ones. Some phones can not be found on e.g. Amazon, but are much easier to come by from AliExpress, though you may need to additionally pay customs duty. [LinageOS has a list with devices that they officially support.][1] The installation instructions from LinageOS explain in more detail what steps are needed to unlock each device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of your requirement for an SD card slot the following ones do not qualify which otherwise would:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Google branded phones which are unlocking rated best, but which also cost much more.&#xD;&#xA; - OnePlus 5 and other OnePlus devices are unlocking rated best, but also cost more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8270" RevisionGUID="12a94471-37bc-4787-95f5-0498ab5b0443" CreationDate="2017-10-22T17:50:37.363" UserId="7176" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I am planning to buy a new monitor, QHD resolution (1440p) and 60Hz, for a desktop computer. Ideally, it should also be possible to use the same display with a couple of laptops: A late 2016 XPS 13 (9360) and a late 2016 MacBook pro, both of which have Thunderbolt 3 ports. I am ok with connecting and disconnecting a cable or two when changing the display from desktop to laptop and back, if needed.&#xA;&#xA;I have found Thunderbolt 3 docking stations that solve the connectivity issue for the laptops, but these are expensive (over 200 euros). I have also found Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C to HDMI adapters, but these seem to be unable to drive a QHD display at 60Hz. I have not found any Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C to Displayport adapters -- do they exist?&#xA;&#xA;What are my options for connecting the laptops without degrading the resolution or refresh rate for the monitor? Keep in mind that I have not chosen a monitor yet, so if specific connectors on the monitor are helpful, that may be possible to achieve.&#xA;&#xA;EDIT: Corrected XPS 13 version." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8284" RevisionGUID="fa7a1460-6dbf-4afb-9d53-386a6b62d38d" CreationDate="2017-10-23T12:49:05.110" UserId="7190" Text="Those 2 monitors are pretty quality products but I can recommend you a few more. If you want to buy a 24-25&quot; monitor for both gaming and programming, you may think&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ASUS PB238Q (23&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;- Acer R240HY bidx (23.8&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;- HP Pavilion 22cwa (21.5&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have very thin bezels and cheaper then 250 Euros. If you tell me about your gaming setup, I can recommend a few more. You may [check this guide for choosing a programming monitor][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.slothygeek.com/best-monitor-for-programming/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26126" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8285" RevisionGUID="a931f31e-b1ee-4701-bad8-72d8825424ac" CreationDate="2017-10-23T13:20:03.470" UserId="2596" Text="There is [WiGig](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_Gigabit_Alliance). You need a compatible wireless adapter and a dock. There are some wireless adapters for laptops that support it from Intel and a few docks from Lenovo, Dell, etc. If your desktop has a compatible port for an adapter (M.2 with PCIe) then you're good to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="ff8488ec-9b69-4683-b8cc-eb7afb3434f9" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:13:08.410" UserId="578" Comment="Replace shortened links with inline links" Text="I am looking for an SDHC for my Wii.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Nintendo's site suggests that any SDHC up to 32 GB should (but is not guaranteed to) work][1], while other sources imply that the file format matters if you want to use the SD card out of the box without modifying it, which is what I want to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do all SDHC cards of size 32 GB or less use a FAT/FAT32 file format? I was looking at [this one][2], as it appears to be the fastest 32 GB card available (that I could find, at least). Would this card work out of the box?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2516/~/what-sd-cards-are-compatible%3F&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/32GB-SDSDXPK-032G-ANCIN-EXTREME-PRO-SD-300-26/157797791" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26128" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="ff8488ec-9b69-4683-b8cc-eb7afb3434f9" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:13:08.410" Comment="Proposed by 578 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 641" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="9bdb83ae-7adf-4efa-bfb5-cacac0b4b734" CreationDate="2017-10-23T17:39:24.473" UserId="1410" Text="I am a softie &amp; know nothing of the arcane ways of screwdrivers, soldering irons and such like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see things like [this](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/355mm-288mm-17-Inch-Touch-Screen-panels-4-wire-resistive-USB-touch-panel-overlay-kit-Free/32605104156.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     ZhiYuSun 355mm*288mm 17 Inch Touch Screen panels 4 wire &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     resistive USB touch panel overlay kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just attach this to my laptop screen and simply plug in the USB? I suspect not - would it not need (Windows) drivers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my question is, who can recommend something like this (and cheap) which I can attach to my 17&quot; (Windows) laptop and convert it to touchscreen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWgJu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26132" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="9bdb83ae-7adf-4efa-bfb5-cacac0b4b734" CreationDate="2017-10-23T17:39:24.473" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap way to add tocuhscreen to my laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="26134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8287" RevisionGUID="86266446-ecaf-46bb-bdfd-80a4b600676f" CreationDate="2017-10-23T18:17:40.737" UserId="7192" Text="I'm looking for a software programmable DSP embedded platform that is relatively cheap, and can be used for capturing and driving speakers at least on the 60-70 kHz frequency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26135" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8287" RevisionGUID="86266446-ecaf-46bb-bdfd-80a4b600676f" CreationDate="2017-10-23T18:17:40.737" UserId="7192" Text="Audio DSP that can capture and output on the ultrasonic range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26136" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8287" RevisionGUID="86266446-ecaf-46bb-bdfd-80a4b600676f" CreationDate="2017-10-23T18:17:40.737" UserId="7192" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="8ce55502-473b-4bad-8e09-3c53b4f614e7" CreationDate="2017-10-23T20:15:42.357" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 1169 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have desktop computer with [Asus WiFi PCI card: PCE N10][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It loads Web pages much slower than other computers in my apartment, probably because it is placed on the floor under the desk, with WiFi antenna on the back directed to a metal radiator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current antenna can be detached from the WiFi card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2.4GHz antenna that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* can be connected to the existing card&#xD;&#xA;* has a cable, so it can be placed above the desk while the PC remains under&#xD;&#xA;* boosts WiFi signal maximally&#xD;&#xA;* costs less than 40$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEN10/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26141" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8246" RevisionGUID="8ce55502-473b-4bad-8e09-3c53b4f614e7" CreationDate="2017-10-23T20:15:42.357" UserId="5143" Comment="deleted 1169 characters in body; edited title" Text="Antenna for WiFi card to boost WiFi signal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26142" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="cae62e7b-553a-4bea-8d49-ef852389e17d" CreationDate="2017-10-23T21:00:16.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26144" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="d485ea81-d9ad-40e0-934f-b7306c0d37c7" CreationDate="2017-10-23T22:03:33.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26145" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="b3c86865-6e80-4eaa-af2f-3a58328b7793" CreationDate="2017-10-24T00:11:59.733" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8288" RevisionGUID="fd04172c-884a-4e52-954e-070e804a76d0" CreationDate="2017-10-24T03:04:33.140" UserId="7193" Text="My surface pro usb died. Microsoft says I have to replace. I don’t want to buy a new one. &#xD;&#xA;Is there any device that connects with the Bluetooth of the laptop and act as an input for usb device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I desperately need to connect usb devices to my pro. The surface dock has usb, but at $200, it is overpriced. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any other suggestions. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26147" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8288" RevisionGUID="fd04172c-884a-4e52-954e-070e804a76d0" CreationDate="2017-10-24T03:04:33.140" UserId="7193" Text="Surface pro 4 usb alternative" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26148" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8288" RevisionGUID="fd04172c-884a-4e52-954e-070e804a76d0" CreationDate="2017-10-24T03:04:33.140" UserId="7193" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26149" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="853d2936-ad55-4fd3-925f-85ed7295cd9c" CreationDate="2017-10-24T07:29:46.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26150" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="6ab1ad9e-5d73-4c04-8699-8a125fcdeb20" CreationDate="2017-10-24T08:49:20.300" UserId="7125" Comment="fixed title, bit of text reformatting, added tag" Text="I do software and know nothing of the arcane ways of screwdrivers, soldering irons and such like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see things like this [ZhiYuSun 355mm*288mm 17 Inch Touch Screen panels 4 wire resistive USB touch panel overlay kit](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/355mm-288mm-17-Inch-Touch-Screen-panels-4-wire-resistive-USB-touch-panel-overlay-kit-Free/32605104156.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![image of ZhiYuSun 355mm*288mm 17 Inch Touch Screen panels 4 wire resistive USB touch panel overlay kit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     ZhiYuSun 355mm*288mm 17 Inch Touch Screen panels 4 wire &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     resistive USB touch panel overlay kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just attach this to my laptop screen and simply plug in the USB? I suspect not - would it not need (Windows) drivers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my question is, who can recommend something like this (and cheap) which I can attach to my 17&quot; (Windows) laptop and convert it to touchscreen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWgJu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26151" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="6ab1ad9e-5d73-4c04-8699-8a125fcdeb20" CreationDate="2017-10-24T08:49:20.300" UserId="7125" Comment="fixed title, bit of text reformatting, added tag" Text="How to add a touch screen overlay to a laptop to provide a cheap touch screen solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26152" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="6ab1ad9e-5d73-4c04-8699-8a125fcdeb20" CreationDate="2017-10-24T08:49:20.300" UserId="7125" Comment="fixed title, bit of text reformatting, added tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26153" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="6ab1ad9e-5d73-4c04-8699-8a125fcdeb20" CreationDate="2017-10-24T08:49:20.300" Comment="Proposed by 7125 approved by -1 edit id of 642" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26154" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8286" RevisionGUID="22b2405a-7e89-49af-b3ae-197d45c476e1" CreationDate="2017-10-24T08:49:20.300" UserId="203" Comment="Formatting, Flow" Text="I do software and know nothing of the arcane ways of screwdrivers, soldering irons and such like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see things like this [ZhiYuSun 17&quot; 4 wire resistive USB touch panel overlay kit](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/355mm-288mm-17-Inch-Touch-Screen-panels-4-wire-resistive-USB-touch-panel-overlay-kit-Free/32605104156.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![image of ZhiYuSun 355mm*288mm 17 Inch Touch Screen panels 4 wire resistive USB touch panel overlay kit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I just attach this to my laptop screen and simply plug in the USB? I suspect not - would it not need device drivers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my question is, is there anything which I can attach to my 17&quot; Windows laptop to convert it to touchscreen, without the need for any complicated setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWgJu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26160" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="f35a401d-e777-47ba-8c41-3a8642833304" CreationDate="2017-10-24T17:36:44.760" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8291" RevisionGUID="3e233f7c-cf98-4bf8-9aed-df4b11699267" CreationDate="2017-10-24T19:22:30.533" UserId="166" Text="My office is buying photocopy machine and we are stuck between the printing technology which is making it difficult to choose one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[canon imagerunner 2520][1] has `Laser Dry Electrostatic Transfer System` &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba Studio 2309A][2] has `Indirect Electrostatic photographic `&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Taskalfa 2200][3] has `laser mono component`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;we are having a very hard time figuring out the difference in these technologies. I have search through the web but didn't find any expalnations.&#xD;&#xA;`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.canon.co.in/business/products/multi-function-devices/imagerunner/imagerunner-2520?languageCode=EN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.toshibaphotocopy.com/product/toshiba-e-studio-2309-a-photocopier/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.kyoceradocumentsolutions.eu/index/products/product/taskalfa2200.technical_specification.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26166" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8291" RevisionGUID="3e233f7c-cf98-4bf8-9aed-df4b11699267" CreationDate="2017-10-24T19:22:30.533" UserId="166" Text="Laser Dry Electrostatic vs Indirect Electrostatic photographic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26167" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8291" RevisionGUID="3e233f7c-cf98-4bf8-9aed-df4b11699267" CreationDate="2017-10-24T19:22:30.533" UserId="166" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26169" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8293" RevisionGUID="dd82db03-d152-4600-a4f4-d4ed0de56e21" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:26:59.337" UserId="7205" Text="I have a Pixel 2 XL preordered which is intended to be a development and testing workhorse which will be connected to all sorts of devices in vehicles, at desks, in the field.  I need a dock for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the ports I need are included in devices like [this dock][1].  USB 3.1 Type C gen2, Gigabit ethernet, SD card slot, 2 or more USB 3.0 ports, HDMI, PD pass thru charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with this product is that I do not want to carry it around plugged into my phone dangling from the USB port.  The dock and phone need to join to be carried as a single brick.  I need either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a) a dock with these features specifically designed to cradle the Pixel 2 XL body, not just its USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) a dumb Pixel 2 XL cradle which I can attach to the above or similar dock with epoxy.  Once mounted and plugged in, I would then mold sugru around the USB cord and allow it to cure.  This should result in a DIY equivalent to a).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone seen or heard of either of these?  If not, chances are this will get someone started developing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CYBT6Z/ref=dra_a_ms_ns_ns_xx_P308_100?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAdapter-Charging-Ethernet-MacBook-Chromebook%2Fdp%2FB074CYBT6Z%2Fref%3Dnsa_da_sm_n_au_dka_US_pr_da_0_1%3FadId%3DB074CYBT6Z%26creativeASIN%3DB074CYBT6Z%26linkId%3Dd1006d5ba848de03cf59aa1dacde5352%26tag%3Dthebestphon09-20%26linkCode%3Dw47%26ref-refURL%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.thebestphonecases.com%252Fbest-google-pixel-2-xl-charging-docks%252F%26slotNum%3D0%26imprToken%3DVbo.eukEqRl5dGkULsBEpg&amp;tag=dradisplay-20&amp;ascsubtag=4a251a2ef9bbf4ccc35f97aba2c9cbda_S" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
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  <row Id="26171" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8293" RevisionGUID="dd82db03-d152-4600-a4f4-d4ed0de56e21" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:26:59.337" UserId="7205" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8293" RevisionGUID="4b75007e-cbf8-45f5-8125-cd239f658a59" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:34:04.470" UserId="7205" Comment="added image" Text="I have a Pixel 2 XL preordered which is intended to be a development and testing workhorse which will be connected to all sorts of devices in vehicles, at desks, in the field.  I need a dock for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the ports I need are included in devices like [this dock][1].  USB 3.1 Type C gen2, Gigabit ethernet, SD card slot, 2 or more USB 3.0 ports, HDMI, PD pass thru charging.&#xD;&#xA;[![dock without sleeve/cradle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;The problem with this product is that I do not want to carry it around plugged into my phone dangling from the USB port.  The dock and phone need to join to be carried as a single brick.  I need either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a) a dock with these features specifically designed to cradle the Pixel 2 XL body, not just its USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) a dumb Pixel 2 XL cradle which I can attach to the above or similar dock with epoxy.  Once mounted and plugged in, I would then mold sugru around the USB cord and allow it to cure.  This should result in a DIY equivalent to a).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone seen or heard of either of these?  If not, chances are this will get someone started developing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CYBT6Z/ref=dra_a_ms_ns_ns_xx_P308_100?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAdapter-Charging-Ethernet-MacBook-Chromebook%2Fdp%2FB074CYBT6Z%2Fref%3Dnsa_da_sm_n_au_dka_US_pr_da_0_1%3FadId%3DB074CYBT6Z%26creativeASIN%3DB074CYBT6Z%26linkId%3Dd1006d5ba848de03cf59aa1dacde5352%26tag%3Dthebestphon09-20%26linkCode%3Dw47%26ref-refURL%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.thebestphonecases.com%252Fbest-google-pixel-2-xl-charging-docks%252F%26slotNum%3D0%26imprToken%3DVbo.eukEqRl5dGkULsBEpg&amp;tag=dradisplay-20&amp;ascsubtag=4a251a2ef9bbf4ccc35f97aba2c9cbda_S&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K37gO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="7b5135fc-8d52-4414-9266-9ab914f4ab67" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:49:09.563" UserId="527" Text="I am looking for an Android device that has a display that can be easily viewed in direct bright sunlight.  I have tried several high-end cell phones, and they are all challenging to read in bright sunlight.  Might need something with a reflective display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The screen size needs to be at least 12.5cm (5&quot;), and can be up to&#xD;&#xA;   30cm (12&quot;).  Prefer something around 20cm (8&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Prefer a color screen, but black and white is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - The device *must* have a GPS.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Lower cost is strongly preferred, although I do not have a specific&#xD;&#xA;   budget in mind.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - The Android version that it runs needs to be KitKat or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Brand does not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to have telephone function (can be a phone or a tablet)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="7b5135fc-8d52-4414-9266-9ab914f4ab67" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:49:09.563" UserId="527" Text="Android device (phone/tablet) that has a display that can be easily viewed in direct sunlight" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="7b5135fc-8d52-4414-9266-9ab914f4ab67" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:49:09.563" UserId="527" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="64b45ca5-1265-48c4-8178-59b0776086ed" CreationDate="2017-10-24T21:55:31.347" UserId="527" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an Android device that has a display that can be easily viewed in direct bright sunlight.  I have tried several high-end cell phones, and they are all challenging to read in bright sunlight.  Might need something with a reflective display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The screen size needs to be at least 12.5cm (5&quot;), and can be up to&#xD;&#xA;   30cm (12&quot;).  Prefer something around 20cm (8&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Prefer a color screen, but black and white is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - The device *must* have a GPS.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Lower cost is strongly preferred, although I do not have a specific&#xD;&#xA;   budget in mind.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - The Android version that it runs needs to be KitKat or later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Water resistance is a big plus.  Will be used outdoors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Brand does not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does not need to have telephone function (can be a phone or a tablet)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26180" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="99ead950-b681-41d0-998a-ee26db3be338" CreationDate="2017-10-24T23:43:20.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8296" RevisionGUID="0677f9e2-aefc-46ec-b349-68f65b52c989" CreationDate="2017-10-24T23:54:21.797" UserId="7203" Text="Are there any large 4K TVs on the market which have DisplayPort ports? A quick Google search for this does not turn up many results. I found that many people have said that HDMI is the standard for TVs and nobody wants DisplayPort. However, I definitely do want this feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rather than debating whether it's in demand or not, I would like to know: Are there any available?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8296" RevisionGUID="0677f9e2-aefc-46ec-b349-68f65b52c989" CreationDate="2017-10-24T23:54:21.797" UserId="7203" Text="Are there any large 4K TVs on the market which have DisplayPort ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8296" RevisionGUID="0677f9e2-aefc-46ec-b349-68f65b52c989" CreationDate="2017-10-24T23:54:21.797" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26184" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="2f706b51-98f7-45d7-9986-f3c7882f3126" CreationDate="2017-10-25T02:53:18.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="bd7c9936-c36f-4f6d-ad3e-a9ca7b062853" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:12:41.760" UserId="1977" Text="I'm looking for a new KVM box for my server room. I have 3 server connected through a KVM box with PS2 + VGA wires.&#xD;&#xA;I want to move monitor, keyboard and mouse 7mt far from server rack then I would like to know if exists something like a KVM with only USB3 cable and using ethernet protocol. With this I will easily cover the distance with a CAT6 cable. But I don't know if it exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="bd7c9936-c36f-4f6d-ad3e-a9ca7b062853" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:12:41.760" UserId="1977" Text="Server KVM via ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="bd7c9936-c36f-4f6d-ad3e-a9ca7b062853" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:12:41.760" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26188" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8239" RevisionGUID="2a64b7aa-bc7c-489d-85f3-8ab92faf10f9" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:16:17.117" UserId="7145" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="I am trying to find a KVM matrix switch to switch two computers with two monitors each between two sets of monitors and keyboards. This should be controllable by software. It should also be possible to control one PC from both sets of mouse and keyboard if possible. Display port or hdmi would be an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions? I only find huge devices which are overpriced for this application or video signal switching only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLSZT.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="f5cedfbe-ab75-4ecd-85ce-ec30ac634ece" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:44:08.010" UserId="7206" Comment="Video link to youtube to show that an HP Elitebook 820 G3 can have two drives installed." Text="Edit: After understanding that the mSATA port will block the HDD drive bay I would suggest a **Dual mSATA** HDD adapter. Feedback is appreciated from anyone who is actively using such a setup as a boot drive on any OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2016-04-17: I hoped that Skylake equipped business laptops (HP, Lenovo, Dell…) would offer plenty of M.2 slots for SATA or NVMe storage, but the mobile chipsets don't offer as many PCIe lanes as the main or performance class desktop versions, which made some manufacturers come up with unexpected designs and decisions against a 2nd storage port or slot. Another example: Lenovo removed the small M.2 slot from the previous generation (T550) in favor of a combined 2.5 inch port where you can either install a SATA drive or a U.2 NVMe drive.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is explained just a few pages below (p. 39) in the manual, it's an [mSATA][1] port. mSATA to SATA adapters exist, but are not suited for use in laptops. mSATA is replaced by [NVMe][2] in newer product generations, which achieves higher speeds by avoiding the SATA layer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is list of recent mSATA SSDs for [Europe/UK][3] with capacities starting from 120 GB. I currently have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB which works fine so far, but there may be options that suit your needs better. Once you nailed down the features you want, look if the products are available in your country and for which price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guessing by your name you probably want to use the [German version of the site][4] for Austria and Germany.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_.28mSATA.29&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;hloc=uk&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014#xf_top&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://geizhals.de/?cat=hdssd&amp;v=e&amp;bl1_id=30&amp;sort=p&amp;xf=252_120~4832_10~3313_2014&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF9gqAtM2U4 shows the installation of a second SSD in this model showing that it is possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26190" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1865" RevisionGUID="f5cedfbe-ab75-4ecd-85ce-ec30ac634ece" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:44:08.010" Comment="Proposed by 7206 approved by 1329 edit id of 643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26191" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="e147adf1-c62d-4178-a518-2ad8cc9abc1b" CreationDate="2017-10-25T16:01:55.843" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26194" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8293" RevisionGUID="8b56f6c8-d345-481e-9c1d-5881fe16a2ef" CreationDate="2017-10-25T18:52:08.240" UserId="7205" Comment="added request for audio jack" Text="I have a Pixel 2 XL preordered which is intended to be a development and testing workhorse which will be connected to all sorts of devices in vehicles, at desks, in the field.  I need a dock for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the ports I need are included in devices like [this dock][1].  USB 3.1 Type C gen2, Gigabit ethernet, SD card slot, 2 or more USB 3.0 ports, HDMI, PD pass thru charging.&#xD;&#xA;[![dock without sleeve/cradle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;The problem with this product is that I do not want to carry it around plugged into my phone dangling from the USB port.  The dock and phone need to join to be carried as a single brick.  I need either&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a) a dock with these features specifically designed to cradle the Pixel 2 XL body, not just its USB port.  Also, add a 3.5mm audio jack to the list of ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) a dumb Pixel 2 XL cradle which I can attach to the above or similar dock with epoxy.  Once mounted and plugged in, I would then mold sugru around the USB cord and allow it to cure.  This should result in a DIY equivalent to a).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone seen or heard of either of these?  If not, chances are this will get someone started developing one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CYBT6Z/ref=dra_a_ms_ns_ns_xx_P308_100?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAdapter-Charging-Ethernet-MacBook-Chromebook%2Fdp%2FB074CYBT6Z%2Fref%3Dnsa_da_sm_n_au_dka_US_pr_da_0_1%3FadId%3DB074CYBT6Z%26creativeASIN%3DB074CYBT6Z%26linkId%3Dd1006d5ba848de03cf59aa1dacde5352%26tag%3Dthebestphon09-20%26linkCode%3Dw47%26ref-refURL%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.thebestphonecases.com%252Fbest-google-pixel-2-xl-charging-docks%252F%26slotNum%3D0%26imprToken%3DVbo.eukEqRl5dGkULsBEpg&amp;tag=dradisplay-20&amp;ascsubtag=4a251a2ef9bbf4ccc35f97aba2c9cbda_S&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K37gO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26195" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="18642437-240d-40ca-998c-28f0fccfe73a" CreationDate="2017-10-25T19:01:55.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8300" RevisionGUID="b702f802-14bb-444b-9a17-bc75eafcbb9e" CreationDate="2017-10-26T08:00:13.163" UserId="1873" Text="Have a look at this: https://store.open-electronics.org/index.php?route=offers/salescombopge&amp;page_id=6&#xA;&#xA;Its from a quick Google search.&#xA;&#xA;A plus of going with a Pi is having ModemManager (software for controlling modems). Ive seen a working SMS manager connected to ModemManager written in around a hundred lines of Python. Or if you have access to a regex library its fairly simple to write AT command software yourself.&#xA;&#xA;Going with Arduino or other MCU-based solutions is also a way, but the major budget element is the GSM board itself. And MCUs are way more limited.&#xA;&#xA;If you go with a Pi3 you should be able to power it with a single 5V (havent checked exactly), remember to get at least a 3 amperes one. Thats slightly above 15W power at maximum draw." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26204" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8300" RevisionGUID="151a0c1d-2914-4a44-9616-8ba24ee944e2" CreationDate="2017-10-26T08:06:05.113" UserId="1873" Comment="added 320 characters in body; added 301 characters in body; added 80 characters in body" Text="Have a look at this: https://store.open-electronics.org/index.php?route=offers/salescombopge&amp;page_id=6&#xA;&#xA;Its from a quick Google search.&#xA;&#xA;A plus of going with a Pi is having ModemManager (software for controlling modems). Ive seen a working SMS manager connected to ModemManager written in around a hundred lines of Python. Or if you have access to a regex library its fairly simple to write AT command software yourself.&#xA;&#xA;Going with Arduino or other MCU-based solutions is also a way, but the major budget element is the GSM board itself. And MCUs are way more limited.&#xA;&#xA;If you go with a Pi3 you should be able to power it with a single 5V (havent checked exactly), remember to get at least a 3 amperes one. Thats slightly above 15W power at maximum draw.&#xA;&#xA;**edit**&#xA;&#xA;Havent looked through your question that carefully, Im too focused on embedded stuff and havent noticed a USB modem is an option. Get some cheap modem, but dont bother with all that usb mode switch stuff manually in my opinion. ModemManager is good enough for that. Or that shield with SIM900 - it uses UART.&#xA;&#xA;As for screen output - thats nonsense IMO, unless you work with the kernel. You can launch a GDB session iver ssh or telnet. Or do any kind of stuff via ssh actually.&#xA;&#xA;Also if you get a decent modem (like the USB one you posted) the Pi has WiFi and it should be possible to configure it as a router.&#xA;&#xA;**edit2**&#xA;Blame me... Seen this in the feed and didnt check the question date." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26205" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="644815d4-7af6-4e57-aeae-dc87fc61f4c4" CreationDate="2017-10-26T12:27:45.723" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8301" RevisionGUID="1679a282-7304-4e9c-81e2-30d5efead4da" CreationDate="2017-10-26T18:42:33.810" UserId="515" Text="Google's giving me something close-ish as a first hit (&quot;ethernet KVM switch&quot; was what I used):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;switch - https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-8-Port-CAT5-Switch-TK-CAT508/dp/B00I3GKLP2&#xD;&#xA;USB cables(same as from the switch page) - https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-8-Port-CAT5-Switch-TK-CAT508/dp/B00I3GKJEK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Manage servers over CAT5 cables for distances up to 30 m &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 8 Ethernet ports to connect to servers &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Dual Console support Supports both USB and PS/2 connections &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's probably more, and probably something rack-mount to boot, but that's 8 ports already." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="5f1f672c-e08f-47f4-b9c4-72f4600fcb60" CreationDate="2017-10-27T05:25:30.393" UserId="6737" Text="What's a very good Power Supply Unit for this PC computer I want together built meant for Blender Cycles rendering? I have a few components but need 3 more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="5f1f672c-e08f-47f4-b9c4-72f4600fcb60" CreationDate="2017-10-27T05:25:30.393" UserId="6737" Text="Best Power Supply Unit for Blender Cycles Rendering?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="5f1f672c-e08f-47f4-b9c4-72f4600fcb60" CreationDate="2017-10-27T05:25:30.393" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="fe25c33b-2b97-4f47-9970-7c9491ccf102" CreationDate="2017-10-27T13:30:55.977" UserId="273" Comment="Linked the relevant questions, summarized sensible requirements for the OPs case" Text="What's a very good Power Supply Unit for [this PC computer][1] I want together built meant for Blender Cycles rendering? I have a few components but need 3 more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The three components are: the [MSI X399 board][2], the AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X and an [EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus the requirements in a PSU are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to support the above components.&#xD;&#xA; - Should be able to deal with an additional 1080Ti&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to be ATX form-factor&#xD;&#xA; - Should be relieable and not (completely) inefficient&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/8104/273&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/8130/273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26225" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="fe25c33b-2b97-4f47-9970-7c9491ccf102" CreationDate="2017-10-27T13:30:55.977" UserId="273" Comment="Linked the relevant questions, summarized sensible requirements for the OPs case" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26226" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8304" RevisionGUID="fe25c33b-2b97-4f47-9970-7c9491ccf102" CreationDate="2017-10-27T13:30:55.977" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 60 edit id of 644" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8271" RevisionGUID="0b194732-f8d5-4278-8fd7-84dc7550e59b" CreationDate="2017-10-27T14:56:15.543" UserId="1410" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="A UK-based friend has asked my to recommend a single access control system for a members club/bar* with a single door. (* despite the &quot;home-security&quot; tag).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] he now tells me that it should control two doors. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;There is an existing system with RFID card based entry, but the suppliers are now asking for GBP 20 for each new card. (I will ask them to try a few different cards which I supply; unless there is a range of acceptable numbers, that should work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: as cheap as possible, max &quot;a few hundred GBP&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - card based entry&#xD;&#xA; - easily installed&#xD;&#xA; - easily administered by non-tech people (we can assume average Windows/Android knowledge) &#xD;&#xA; - uses cheap, easily obtainable RFID cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - fingerprint based entry&#xD;&#xA; - possibly face recognition? If so, optional on a per-member basis, as should be fingerprinting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it, the current system requires a PC (windows 95 based is currently being used :-), but I see no reason that the new one should have to, unless this makes it easier for the users (club secretary/committee members). It might also add expense if a Widows 10 PC must be purchased (and I don't know what legacy software they might be running on that Windows 95 PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only entry is required, no time-keeping, or even record keeping, but such an over-spec'ed system is acceptable if extra features don't get in the way of &quot;the door should open to members and to no one else&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suppose that they would have to fit a new lock to the door?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can look around AliExpress, but would prefer a recommendation, preferably from someone with experience of this sort of thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8314" RevisionGUID="aeaaa8cc-45b5-4e49-8b9f-060ed8c6423d" CreationDate="2017-10-27T21:34:25.807" UserId="241" Text="PCPartPicker estimates your build at around 750 watts with two video cards installed.  Power supplies tend to be most efficient when loaded to about 25%-75% of capacity, so you're looking at something in the 1000W-1200W range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the [SeaSonic PRIME Platinum][1] in either 1000W ($210) or 1200W ($250) capacity: 1000W if the computer is going to be spending most of its time nearly idle while you do design work, or the 1200W if it's going to be running all-out for hours on end rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't used this particular power supply, but I've had good experience with SeaSonic power supplies in the past, and they've got a reputation for quality.  It's a high-efficiency power supply (rated 80+ Platinum, 90% efficient or above across almost the entire working range), and it's got the four 8-pin PCIe power connectors you need for your graphics cards (actually, it's got eight of them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151162" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="bdacf279-2320-49e0-8c42-d21badd58cb2" CreationDate="2017-10-28T00:30:42.070" UserId="6737" Text="I need a really good large RAM for a PC I want to get built meant to render Blender Cycles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="bdacf279-2320-49e0-8c42-d21badd58cb2" CreationDate="2017-10-28T00:30:42.070" UserId="6737" Text="Best RAM for Blender Cycles Rendering for PC I'm Getting Built?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="bdacf279-2320-49e0-8c42-d21badd58cb2" CreationDate="2017-10-28T00:30:42.070" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="bd5f9992-eb98-41bf-8493-5f40925cfd09" CreationDate="2017-10-28T02:35:38.817" UserId="6737" Text="I was told to make this question because I am going to get a PC built and I need some advice and how I can make it very powerful to render complex animations fast. I need it to be a Windows platform, but yeah thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26263" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="bd5f9992-eb98-41bf-8493-5f40925cfd09" CreationDate="2017-10-28T02:35:38.817" UserId="6737" Text="Best Persistent Storage for Blender Cycles Rendering for PC I'm Getting Built?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26264" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="bd5f9992-eb98-41bf-8493-5f40925cfd09" CreationDate="2017-10-28T02:35:38.817" UserId="6737" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8318" RevisionGUID="bca882ad-bdc4-4ec1-a74b-e763b9725d97" CreationDate="2017-10-28T12:03:50.000" UserId="273" Text="**How much power do you need?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_If_ you upgrade to a second 1080Ti you will need about 250W*2+150W of power supply, plus peripherals, plus enough to catch any power usage spikes and to compensate for the sub-100% efficiency and the efficiency degradation over the years. So **1000W** is a realistic estimate for this (and a comfortably conservative one).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So what is the recommendation?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [**EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-G3**][1], it is an ATX form factor 1000W Gold-rated PSU with 8x 8-pin connectors for graphics cards (you will need 2 or 4 of these).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So what are the differences between Titanium, Platinum and Gold PSUs?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between the various certifications are efficiencies. A Titanium rated PSU needs to hit 94% efficiency, a platinum 92% and a gold one 90%, so as you see there isn't _that_ much of a difference. However, as you have such a large buffer with regards to power, going with a gold-rated one will do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;_Additionally_ EVGA is extremely confident in the quality of this PSU, which is why they give a _decade_ of warranty on it, so I wouldn't worry about build quality (and besides EVGA has an excellent reputation with power supplies).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to read more about PSUs, have a look at [this article][2] (about this PSU) and the references it links. And also note that Mark's suggestion will also be fine (and a little more efficient / with a little longer warranty for a bit more money).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ3SFB3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-1000-g3-psu,4941.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26269" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8319" RevisionGUID="5f9857b1-e01f-4a0a-8fb7-7627ccdea511" CreationDate="2017-10-28T12:29:03.463" UserId="273" Text="So I shall estimate that 500GB is enough for Windows, your tools (Blender + other installed programs) and the current project. To store these 500GB to which you would want quick access, I recommend the [**Samsung 960 Pro 500GB** for 290USD][1]. Why this SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is the fastest somewhat affordable SSD, meaning you will get GB/s transfer rates from it, which will make even large projects load instantly.&#xD;&#xA; - It is a Samsung Pro series SSD, meaning it is meant to survive more write operations (which will probably happen)&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung is a very reputable brand when it comes to SSD and this one is covered by a 400TBW / 5yr warranty, meaning if you write less than 220GB per day on average on your SSD, it will last you for at least five years, if not much longer, speaking for its build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now of course 500GB won't cut it if you want to archive old projects. So after you are done with your current project you'll have to move the data to your **[WD Black 4TB HDD][2]** for 186USD. On this drive you have essentially 4000GB of storage available, which should be plenty for a couple of old projects. But what does the &quot;Black&quot; mean? It's the WD series of HDDs &quot;for gamers&quot; featuring technology that is supposed to make the HDD faster, however the _really nice_ side-effect of this is that these technologies treat the mechanical disks inside nicer meaning the HDD will last longer than an average HDD (and WD also gives a 5yr warranty). For further reading I recommend [this guide on WD drives][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXS4TYB/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Drive-Internal-Drives-WD4004FZWX/dp/B01GWS2ZOC&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://metanophilia.wordpress.com/2015/07/01/rainbow-caviar-the-different-colors-of-western-digital-hdds/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26270" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="e51f4064-5b81-48d7-999b-e3272950cd2e" CreationDate="2017-10-28T12:59:51.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26271" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8320" RevisionGUID="63fd03e2-695c-4a34-8420-8d52733ec0fd" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:12:52.083" UserId="273" Text="It turns out that finding 4x8GB of DDR4 RAM with 2666 transfer speed for 300USD or less is impossible. However, I barely found this RAM, the [**G.Skill Ripjaws 4 2400 32GB** for 300USD][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is compatible with the board and CPU listed (which both easily support this RAM speed)&#xD;&#xA; - It is within the appointed budget of 300USD.&#xD;&#xA; - [Reviews][2] of [higher-clocked variants][3] appear to look good for this series of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Being 4x 8GB it can make use of the 4 memory channels of the Threadripper&#xD;&#xA; - With 15 cycles of delay, it's not the lowest-latency RAM but it should easily do the job&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOCUSQW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/g-skill-ripjaws-4-3000cl15-memory-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/GSkill/Ripjaws_4_3000_16GB/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26272" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="138d8810-a975-4928-98a5-25ba0963d5f3" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:34:13.647" UserId="273" Comment="added (somewhat) more precise requirements" Text="I was told to make this question because I am going to get [a PC built][1] and I need some advice and how I can make it very powerful to render complex animations fast. I need it to be a Windows platform, but yeah thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supported with AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X running on the [MSI X399 board][2].&#xD;&#xA; - Storage for archivation and everyday projects is needed.&#xD;&#xA; - Total price for the persistent storage should be 500USD or less.&#xD;&#xA; - An SSD and a HDD sounds like a good combination.&#xD;&#xA; - Storage capacities are hard to estimate but a couple of hundred GB for the SSD and a couple of TB for the HDD sounds good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DHQR9N" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26273" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="138d8810-a975-4928-98a5-25ba0963d5f3" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:34:13.647" UserId="273" Comment="added (somewhat) more precise requirements" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26274" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="138d8810-a975-4928-98a5-25ba0963d5f3" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:34:13.647" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by -1 edit id of 646" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="2e1f492e-483e-4b32-b85e-71653e222c9f" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:34:13.647" UserId="203" Comment="Requirements" Text="This is a follow up for a [previous question][1] to build a high performance rendering PC. This PC will be running Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supported by the AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X running on the [MSI X399 motherboard][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Storage should be sufficient for both archived and working projects&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum budget of 500 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X399-GAMING-PRO-CARBON-AC/Specification" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26276" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8316" RevisionGUID="2e1f492e-483e-4b32-b85e-71653e222c9f" CreationDate="2017-10-28T13:34:13.647" UserId="203" Comment="Requirements" Text="Persistent Storage for Blender Cycles Rendering for PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="e00442b9-f989-463e-af8c-6f57669a4166" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:41:47.303" UserId="273" Comment="clarified requirements as per OPs previous Q&amp;As (hope it's precise enough now)" Text="I need a really good large RAM for [a PC I want to get built][1] meant to render Blender Cycles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Compatibility with the [MSI X399 board][2].&#xD;&#xA; - Compatibility with the (non-OC'ed) AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X.&#xD;&#xA; - No more than 4 modules with a combined capacity of 32GB.&#xD;&#xA; - Price preferably 300 USD or lower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7857/273&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DHQR9N/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26287" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="e00442b9-f989-463e-af8c-6f57669a4166" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:41:47.303" UserId="273" Comment="clarified requirements as per OPs previous Q&amp;As (hope it's precise enough now)" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26288" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8315" RevisionGUID="e00442b9-f989-463e-af8c-6f57669a4166" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:41:47.303" Comment="Proposed by 273 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 645" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26294" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="9d56b0e5-dfac-4d25-97cb-8b88703ce40f" CreationDate="2017-10-30T17:32:08.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26295" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="154cdab0-05dc-4242-b837-0cdf55f9a46e" CreationDate="2017-10-30T20:32:08.770" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26296" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="d30646f3-446f-497a-8efe-44609ab53f4b" CreationDate="2017-10-30T20:46:05.797" UserId="1862" Text="I search a small printer+scanner device for Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which device has very good support for Ubuntu? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want plug+play, I don't want to edit config files by hand or execute complicated shell commands to get it working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * LAN (optional WLAN) access&#xD;&#xA; * Printing (A4 size is enough)&#xD;&#xA; * Scanning&#xD;&#xA; * Black/White is enough - Color ist not needed&#xD;&#xA; * Size: Not much bigger than 40cm x 40cm x 30xm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Boring background:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have Brother DCP-7055W. The hardware is great: Scanner and Printer in one device and small. Perfect match. Except: Installing the drivers is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After upgrading to Ubuntu 17.04 the scanner does not work any more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a new device where I don't need to run tools on the command line to get it working.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26297" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="d30646f3-446f-497a-8efe-44609ab53f4b" CreationDate="2017-10-30T20:46:05.797" UserId="1862" Text="Small printer+scanner with very good support for Ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26298" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="d30646f3-446f-497a-8efe-44609ab53f4b" CreationDate="2017-10-30T20:46:05.797" UserId="1862" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26299" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8291" RevisionGUID="0b3680fb-d75e-4473-8826-68a118597041" CreationDate="2017-10-31T02:32:22.763" UserId="166" Comment="64" />
  <row Id="26301" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="c684eb04-12c6-4b0a-bda3-3d52a4f94f46" CreationDate="2017-10-31T09:34:47.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26302" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="a9eccbd4-3fe6-4539-9e37-45221ba1a9c6" CreationDate="2017-10-31T10:39:40.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8325" RevisionGUID="5c4ce320-1655-407e-91c9-6ef2e2c395b8" CreationDate="2017-10-31T14:52:03.670" UserId="964" Text="Is there any hard drive which can be controlled by two different interfaces at the same time? E.g. two USB ports, or one USB and one SATA, or one USB and one LAN/NAS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26308" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8325" RevisionGUID="5c4ce320-1655-407e-91c9-6ef2e2c395b8" CreationDate="2017-10-31T14:52:03.670" UserId="964" Text="Is there such a thing as a hard drive with two interfaces where you can use both at once?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26309" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8325" RevisionGUID="5c4ce320-1655-407e-91c9-6ef2e2c395b8" CreationDate="2017-10-31T14:52:03.670" UserId="964" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="aa577f9d-0e1a-4f72-89e7-b29958218727" CreationDate="2017-10-31T20:48:32.987" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26317" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8029" RevisionGUID="a8436e69-4af5-445c-ad2b-caad2ebaa01f" CreationDate="2017-11-01T09:56:58.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8328" RevisionGUID="a93b5748-18e9-4195-8bcf-d7fa87a581aa" CreationDate="2017-11-01T10:56:35.990" UserId="7230" Text="No common OS expects data on a disk to change by itself. Such a device wouldn't be considered a disk and couldn't be used just as one. It'd have horrible performance, wouldn't be safe (OS access controls can't be enforced) and wouldn't be cheap.&#xA;&#xA;Try defining your use case and asking what hardware/software could do it. You may get better possibilities this way." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="95dc5300-b6af-4108-9bef-5fcfcf40b16a" CreationDate="2017-11-01T11:47:56.917" UserId="1862" Comment="I loved fixing errors like this in the past. But now I have wife, family and other hobbies." Text="I search a small printer+scanner device for Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which device has very good support for Ubuntu? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want plug+play, I don't want to edit config files by hand or execute complicated shell commands to get it working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * LAN (optional WLAN) access&#xD;&#xA; * Printing (A4 size is enough)&#xD;&#xA; * Scanning&#xD;&#xA; * Black/White printing is enough - Color is not needed&#xD;&#xA; * Size: Not much bigger than 40cm x 40cm x 30xm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Boring background:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have Brother DCP-7055W. The hardware is great: Scanner and Printer in one device and small. Perfect match. Except: Installing the drivers is a pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After upgrading to Ubuntu 17.04 the scanner does not work any more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a new device instead of investigating how to get it working. I loved fixing errors like this in the past. But now I have wife, family and other hobbies." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8329" RevisionGUID="70bcd000-6a78-4bdb-afe9-98fd04b0f27a" CreationDate="2017-11-01T13:43:18.800" UserId="1800" Text="[This may be the wrong SE site for this question. Apologies if it is: it seems the best fit.]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have ongoing problems with WiFi connectivity in my house. Due to a combination of factors, my router sits at probably the least convenient spot in the entire building and it's hard to see how it could go elsewhere. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're using the default free router that came with the network, and I'd prefer not to change it. Good routers seem very expensive. And, after a bad experience trying to borrow a better router to see if improved things, I don't really want the hassle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that there are a variety of devices that can help with this. For maximum convenience, however, I want something that will extend the range of the *same network*. We use mobile devices a lot, and wandering around with one switching between networks based on strength is problematic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understood that the way to do this was to get a &quot;range extender&quot; as opposed to a repeater or power line adapter, which create new network names you can feed off. To this end I got a D-Link 1320. However, when I plugged it in, it created a new network with a new network name. Trialing it proved as problematic as I expected and we soon turned it off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question then is: first, is it possible to get a device that increases the range of the *same network* and doesn't do so by creating a new network name for devices to log on to? Second, if so, will my D-Link 1320 do this? Third, if not, what device can you recommend that will?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26321" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8329" RevisionGUID="70bcd000-6a78-4bdb-afe9-98fd04b0f27a" CreationDate="2017-11-01T13:43:18.800" UserId="1800" Text="What device can I get or configure that extends existing WiFi networks without creating new ones?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26322" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8329" RevisionGUID="70bcd000-6a78-4bdb-afe9-98fd04b0f27a" CreationDate="2017-11-01T13:43:18.800" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8330" RevisionGUID="035924c8-9367-44c8-9329-0f5b07a32491" CreationDate="2017-11-01T16:45:41.717" UserId="7232" Text="I am a programmer and next week I will start working from home.  My desk will be shared by my work computer, my desktop, and my personal laptop sometimes.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering the Samsung S27E330.  I haven't seen many recent laptops without both VGA and HDMI, so the work laptop should be fine to plug in.  The desktop has HDMI and DVI, so I can get it to work pretty well.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the monitor being a &quot;gaming&quot; monitor cause any problems with performance or quality while working?  I would be using Visual Studio, SSMS, and SSRS when working from home.  I may also setup as dualscreen with my old monitor from time to time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My desktop has an ATI HD7700.&#xD;&#xA;My personal laptop is a Lenovo W520 with the two cards.&#xD;&#xA;I haven't gotten my work laptop yet, but I imagine it will be pretty new." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8330" RevisionGUID="035924c8-9367-44c8-9329-0f5b07a32491" CreationDate="2017-11-01T16:45:41.717" UserId="7232" Text="Is the Samsung S27E330 a good monitor choice for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8330" RevisionGUID="035924c8-9367-44c8-9329-0f5b07a32491" CreationDate="2017-11-01T16:45:41.717" UserId="7232" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26327" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8330" RevisionGUID="2cd55691-4ba3-4dc9-9ba4-9e684eea4a8b" CreationDate="2017-11-01T17:07:48.120" UserId="7232" Comment="Added more details" Text="I am a programmer and next week I will start working from home.  My desk will be shared by my work computer, my desktop, and my personal laptop sometimes.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering the Samsung S27E330.  I haven't seen many recent laptops without both VGA and HDMI, so the work laptop should be fine to plug in.  The desktop has HDMI and DVI, so I can get it to work pretty well.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the monitor being a &quot;gaming&quot; monitor cause any problems with performance or quality while working?  I would be using Visual Studio, SSMS, and SSRS when working from home.  I may also setup as dualscreen with my old monitor from time to time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My desktop has an ATI HD7700.  I use this computer for gaming and photo editing.&#xD;&#xA;My personal laptop is a Lenovo W520 with the two cards. Used for work, internet.&#xD;&#xA;I haven't gotten my work laptop yet, but I imagine it will be pretty new." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8331" RevisionGUID="a9cab1bd-fc9f-4172-afb5-415c0edf6ccf" CreationDate="2017-11-01T19:43:58.273" UserId="7230" Text="You can more easily solve your problem if you divide it in 2 devices. Get any common projector that solves your presentation needs, but with an HDMI input.&#xA;&#xA;With that get an Intel compute stick or a raspberry pi with Wi-Fi, put your OS on that and get remmina running from the network." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26329" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="7fb34318-4ecc-4d82-8089-aeb8087c3983" CreationDate="2017-11-01T20:06:49.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26330" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8162" RevisionGUID="f72faa91-3b4b-4d4d-b347-4cd74f97a59b" CreationDate="2017-11-01T21:07:10.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26331" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="8332" RevisionGUID="b3a3215c-87c2-43fd-ae04-43388b24cd32" CreationDate="2017-11-01T21:16:49.233" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://stackoverflow.com/questions/47063020/cpu-upgrade-for-heavy-ide-visual-studio" />
  <row Id="26332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8332" RevisionGUID="915dafb8-6246-46be-b85f-1ba88797482d" CreationDate="2017-11-01T20:18:58.977" UserId="7234" UserDisplayName="Mennion" Text="In next months i am thinking about upgrade my pc workstation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking about 2 models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - intel i7 8700k: less cores but better performance by one core&#xD;&#xA; - amd ryzen 1800x: more core but less performance by one core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, question is which cpu is better for heavy IDE (Visual Studio) ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not aiming for speed up build time, but speed up overall IDE responsivity. (Lot of projects with resharper plugin installed for example)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for advice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26333" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8332" RevisionGUID="915dafb8-6246-46be-b85f-1ba88797482d" CreationDate="2017-11-01T20:18:58.977" UserId="7234" UserDisplayName="Mennion" Text="CPU upgrade for heavy IDE (Visual Studio)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26334" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8332" RevisionGUID="915dafb8-6246-46be-b85f-1ba88797482d" CreationDate="2017-11-01T20:18:58.977" UserId="7234" UserDisplayName="Mennion" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8333" RevisionGUID="f6521f27-955a-431a-b23e-85c24e31a952" CreationDate="2017-11-02T11:05:33.813" UserId="7238" Text="They are all various ways of referring to the same process, which a [Xerox engineer invented](https://www.xerox.com/en-us/innovation/chester-carlson-xerography) (hence the name of their company): [Xerography](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xerography).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HowStuffWorks has a decent overview of the process [here](https://computer.howstuffworks.com/laser-printer.htm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, to directly answer your question, **they all use the same printing technology**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26342" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="a88761a3-5393-4562-97d8-319f73968468" CreationDate="2017-11-02T23:23:52.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8335" RevisionGUID="3bb450d7-7e6a-44d1-90c2-a639a587c6b8" CreationDate="2017-11-03T06:25:17.997" UserId="5578" Text="I'll like to go with Intel i7 8700k. Intel processors are more developer friendly. Supports more Advanced technologies like &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - VT-x&#xD;&#xA; - Turbo boost&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel supports more development technologies than AMD. And you will not see the performance difference regardless of processor you choose. You should use the latest SSD. Install the OS and Visual Studio on SSD. That will increase your IDE response time a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26345" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="dbc105f7-8a3c-47e2-8da6-747e96f069e8" CreationDate="2017-11-03T07:29:30.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26346" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="959a1200-4816-412e-aa73-ea0a312e20f4" CreationDate="2017-11-03T08:29:31.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="49f690eb-98d0-41a8-8882-b11c5560e7d2" CreationDate="2017-11-03T09:42:04.740" UserId="4065" Comment="added 273 characters in body" Text="I'm running 3 servers and not sure who makes good quality KVM switches. A recommendation for a cheap 4 port KVM switch to improve my keyboard handling, would really help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an old home-use KVM already but it works by disconnecting/reconnecting the USB hub as it switches, so the servers are constantly redetecting and reconnecting the KVM's hub and keyboard (causing console spam and slowness!) and keyboard connectivity is very poorly handled. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked up full DDM switches but they start around £250 which I can't justify. Is there anything in between? I've tried to understand the classes of KVM switch but it's still confusing which kind I'm actually after.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of connection, the devices are pretty simple: standard wired USB keyboard, standard wired USB mouse, and a monitor at the moment 1280 x 1024 but ideally up to 1920x1200 &quot;just in case&quot; I upgrade it. But the keyboard handling is the priority as I don't have anything that handles KB switching nicely.  (I can handle VGA/DSUB monitor connectivity and if it doesn't cost too much more I'd like to know of a digital alternative - DVI or displayport.) The KVM box format is less important but smaller is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd ideally like to handle rebooting multiple machines together so I don't have to wait 3 minutes to reboot one then the next, but if getting video magic/DDC/EDID emulation (or whatevers needed for better monitor handling) in the same KVM as decent KB handling will add a lot to the cost, then it's not essential, I'll take a cheaper KVM that handles the keyboard nicely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Basically, as long as it handles simple video correctly - I won't be using multiple monitors or swapping monitors in use, although I might need to briefly disconnect/reconnect the monitor I'm using now and then. Even a little latency isn't a problem. The crucial factor is that good keyboard handling when switching between servers is important.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, it's mostly about price. I'm happy buying secondhand if I knew what to look for, but I suspect this is one of those product types where you only find how well it works if you know who makes them well, or after you buy....." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26354" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8337" RevisionGUID="c4bfc2ce-70f3-43cf-bf01-ad9ca563d8b0" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:08:20.817" UserId="7247" Text="So, I asked [this](https://iot.stackexchange.com/questions/2245/gps-transmitter-that-works-without-mobile-networks) question on IoT, and I'm here for something like that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I need a small and thin GPS transmitter that is easily concealable between layers of cloth. There will be little to no mobile network, so something that stores data and sends it when networks are available would be preferable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in addition to tracking, it is imperative that the device ***NOT*** be discovered. It must be concealed between layers of cloth, so it must be thin." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26355" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8337" RevisionGUID="c4bfc2ce-70f3-43cf-bf01-ad9ca563d8b0" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:08:20.817" UserId="7247" Text="Small and thin GPS Transmitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26356" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8337" RevisionGUID="c4bfc2ce-70f3-43cf-bf01-ad9ca563d8b0" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:08:20.817" UserId="7247" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26360" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="ea4e6e8b-8d25-4d87-a5af-234a9b4c198e" CreationDate="2017-11-04T17:59:40.440" UserId="7251" Text="What I'm looking for is something that will allow my to charge and access the USB-C port at the same time. Something that only does that would be ideal but a full USB hub that will also charge my phone is good too. The problem being that using USB OTG or even headphone now that manufacturers have apparently decided to do away with 3.5mm jacks can't be done while charging without something like this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26361" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="ea4e6e8b-8d25-4d87-a5af-234a9b4c198e" CreationDate="2017-11-04T17:59:40.440" UserId="7251" Text="USB-C Hub/Splitter for Phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26362" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="ea4e6e8b-8d25-4d87-a5af-234a9b4c198e" CreationDate="2017-11-04T17:59:40.440" UserId="7251" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8340" RevisionGUID="0f23ba55-00ba-42cd-8ec1-41e98f8db6f1" CreationDate="2017-11-04T18:03:03.807" UserId="7251" Text="You could connect the drive to something like a raspberry pi zero and set it up as a media server. The RPi controls the drive and runs a media server allowing other devices to access it remotely even, for example, being able to use the drive as a remote drive on the other devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26367" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8342" RevisionGUID="69f6dde3-01c9-4dd7-bcbf-28a91e75bde8" CreationDate="2017-11-04T18:15:16.420" UserId="7251" Text="It looks like you should be looking more at e-readers than phones/tablets. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this perhaps? https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Professional-cheap-13-3-Boox-Max_60538385575.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.10.75b367af4LveAr&amp;s=p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26368" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8146" RevisionGUID="1917c078-5df6-4342-93bf-32e6e3a5b73c" CreationDate="2017-11-04T19:50:04.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26369" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="f43f7964-f8f8-4d59-ae1c-64e85d79645d" CreationDate="2017-11-04T20:50:04.717" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8343" RevisionGUID="15654003-aca9-49d6-8eb5-99e3d49b2b24" CreationDate="2017-11-04T21:48:39.497" UserId="7252" Text="I did some digging around that topic, but can't really find straight forward answer for this question. My background: I'm going to spend some time in hotel. I would like to hook up to hotel's wi fi with some kind of device (so WAN over wi fi) and create separate network just for myself in the room, available over wi fi as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any device which could do this? I've read about bridges and access points, however I'm still not sure if they will do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26371" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8343" RevisionGUID="15654003-aca9-49d6-8eb5-99e3d49b2b24" CreationDate="2017-11-04T21:48:39.497" UserId="7252" Text="Device to provide wan over wifi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26372" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8343" RevisionGUID="15654003-aca9-49d6-8eb5-99e3d49b2b24" CreationDate="2017-11-04T21:48:39.497" UserId="7252" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26373" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="990efa04-e0be-408a-91a4-1d018043c2c9" CreationDate="2017-11-04T22:50:04.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26380" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="205f1f46-18d8-4a54-b538-ba7a57090b0c" CreationDate="2017-11-05T05:57:05.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="7462eef7-fc4c-4492-802e-75aa918d3070" CreationDate="2017-11-05T15:49:04.220" UserId="97" Text="What options do I have if I need a router which can&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Run a DHCPv6 client on its WAN port to request a delegated prefix (in the range `/48` to `/60`).&#xD;&#xA;- Run a DHCPv6 server on the LAN and hand out subnets of the prefix it received from the WAN (sub-delegations in the range `/52` to `/62`).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other nice to have features which are not strict requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can forward small packets at 1Gbit/s wirespeed on all ports&#xD;&#xA;- Multiple LAN ports that can be configured as separate IP segments&#xD;&#xA;- Can provide the CLAT side of 464XLAT in order to support legacy devices connected to the LAN (as described in [RFC 6877 section 6.5](https://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc6877#section-6.5))&#xD;&#xA;- Can advertise its own DNS cache as primary DNS server and DNS servers advertised from the WAN as fallback." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="7462eef7-fc4c-4492-802e-75aa918d3070" CreationDate="2017-11-05T15:49:04.220" UserId="97" Text="Router supporting hierarchical prefix delegation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="7462eef7-fc4c-4492-802e-75aa918d3070" CreationDate="2017-11-05T15:49:04.220" UserId="97" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8348" RevisionGUID="c6e385ba-1065-4375-bc7e-625afcbb6190" CreationDate="2017-11-05T16:01:45.433" UserId="7256" Text="does anyone have any experience of using USB temperature &amp;amp; humidity sensors under Linux? I suspect we may have a damp problem and I want to assess the level of humidity in various rooms in my house over 24-48h so I can work out if there's a real problem.&#xA;&#xA;- Data analysis isn't a problem as long as I can load it up into a pandas DataFrame in Python&#xA;- I'm not looking for something that needs to be plugged into a running computer but that will record on battery power and then upload logged data when plugged in &#xA;- The ideal would be something available in the UK&#xA;&#xA;So, for example, I've found [this](https://www.omega.co.uk/pptst/OM-140-SERIES.html), which claims:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; &quot;After a data log has been captured and stored, it can be uploaded as a .txt file to any PC running the Windows® XP/7 or 8 operating system after plugging the data logger into one of the computer's USB ports&quot;&#xA;&#xA;But there's no indication of the actual upload mechanism and whether it requires a special client that's Windows-only or whether it just uses generic USB mass storage. I could use wine, but don't know if their software would be compatible.&#xA;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a decent quality thermometer/hygrometer that works well (or has know workarounds) under Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26390" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8348" RevisionGUID="c6e385ba-1065-4375-bc7e-625afcbb6190" CreationDate="2017-11-05T16:01:45.433" UserId="7256" Text="Linux-compatible USB temperature &amp; humidity logger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26391" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8348" RevisionGUID="c6e385ba-1065-4375-bc7e-625afcbb6190" CreationDate="2017-11-05T16:01:45.433" UserId="7256" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26392" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8349" RevisionGUID="723180c9-f13e-472e-b6ca-3f8a3ea0cfcc" CreationDate="2017-11-05T16:25:34.897" UserId="7257" Text="I have done hierarchical prefix delegation using the [AVM Fritz!Box](https://en.avm.de/products/fritzbox/) routers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26402" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="2167962c-cf5c-43dc-9961-41401a3d5c86" CreationDate="2017-11-06T13:46:09.310" UserId="1862" Comment="65" />
  <row Id="26412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8352" RevisionGUID="017eaeee-ef09-4eab-a28e-257f3a9ada1f" CreationDate="2017-11-06T17:03:51.217" UserId="7264" Text="I previously posted this on Stack Overflow but moved the post here because I feel this forum is more relevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for some kind of hardware that I can buy that has multiple Bluetooth radios, which would allow me to simultaneously connect to multiple Bluetooth-enabled devices. I also need the device to be programmable in a mainstream language like Java or C, so that I can write my own software onto it. However, low-level languages that are easy to learn are also acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I am looking for this is that I want to create a sort of &quot;hub&quot; for multiple Bluetooth devices, but I do not want to use a pre-made router that has its own packaging (don't want to pay for the extra garbage) and I don't want to have to forcefully update its firmware to edit the software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have heard of the raspberry pi, but I don't know if this would be a suitable device to use for multiple connections. Any suggestions, please?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26413" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8352" RevisionGUID="017eaeee-ef09-4eab-a28e-257f3a9ada1f" CreationDate="2017-11-06T17:03:51.217" UserId="7264" Text="Programmable Bluetooth router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26414" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8352" RevisionGUID="017eaeee-ef09-4eab-a28e-257f3a9ada1f" CreationDate="2017-11-06T17:03:51.217" UserId="7264" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26415" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="c163eae0-eb91-4dd6-aec6-b52fc4bad7ca" CreationDate="2017-11-06T17:13:12.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26416" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="a9e4fa79-403a-459c-8550-999828bf5a01" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:15:32.667" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26417" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="3ef8586a-ee8d-4445-9798-6b53ce61df50" CreationDate="2017-11-06T19:15:32.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26418" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7314" RevisionGUID="e5848311-5533-447e-8fe7-34e96951e12b" CreationDate="2017-11-06T21:15:46.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26419" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="e4d9d63f-f444-4418-a399-11ce3b8d0840" CreationDate="2017-11-06T22:15:48.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8355" RevisionGUID="70e8c8ef-a7bc-4a44-a7f4-e46bd2d580b2" CreationDate="2017-11-07T11:49:39.310" UserId="7268" Text="I have one DELL 3415W right now as my off screen (which the graphics card lower framerate on to 30hz or something to be able to use it) and an old 1920x1080 screen which it can only run as high as 60hz (this is what I want to change to another 4k... maybe the same as my off screen). I think my power supply is big (1KW).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I run windows 10 on an Intel Core i7 CPU X 990 3.47GHz with two SCSI disc (256GB SSD + 1.8TB HD). I wan't to upgrade my GTX 580 graphics card so it can handle 2 4k screens at the same time, but can I do this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If yes, what would be a good choice? I am a hardware noob so let me know if anything else is needed to answer the question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26426" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8355" RevisionGUID="70e8c8ef-a7bc-4a44-a7f4-e46bd2d580b2" CreationDate="2017-11-07T11:49:39.310" UserId="7268" Text="I want to upgrade my GTX 580 to something that could handle 2 4k screens. Can I do that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26427" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8355" RevisionGUID="70e8c8ef-a7bc-4a44-a7f4-e46bd2d580b2" CreationDate="2017-11-07T11:49:39.310" UserId="7268" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8356" RevisionGUID="82b835f7-6964-434c-a4a6-29790bdbd2d0" CreationDate="2017-11-07T12:42:59.780" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26429" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8356" RevisionGUID="82b835f7-6964-434c-a4a6-29790bdbd2d0" CreationDate="2017-11-07T12:42:59.780" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26430" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8357" RevisionGUID="2a3c0793-a72c-4e96-a7f5-46250f47c121" CreationDate="2017-11-07T12:42:59.780" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26431" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8357" RevisionGUID="2a3c0793-a72c-4e96-a7f5-46250f47c121" CreationDate="2017-11-07T12:42:59.780" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26435" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="22ec6791-b37a-4ac2-9ea1-0a75ebdb4536" CreationDate="2017-11-07T15:21:08.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26441" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8357" RevisionGUID="917ae3e8-00fc-42c6-97be-dca48e9e1b7c" CreationDate="2017-11-07T19:56:22.223" UserId="203" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="A microcontroller is a small computer on a single integrated circuit, similar to a SoC. Often used for DIY automation and embedded systems. Use the [micro-pc] tag for single board computers designed to run regular operating systems" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26442" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8357" RevisionGUID="917ae3e8-00fc-42c6-97be-dca48e9e1b7c" CreationDate="2017-11-07T19:56:22.223" Comment="Proposed by 203 approved by 60 edit id of 647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26446" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8291" RevisionGUID="5c5dc47c-939c-435c-9162-15288d8f2d39" CreationDate="2017-11-08T04:28:15.350" UserId="-1" Comment="64" />
  <row Id="26449" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="eee272dd-348c-43d3-8832-f304a175d6f0" CreationDate="2017-11-08T14:30:51.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26453" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="8f070d44-f681-440b-ae68-270daa0fe15f" CreationDate="2017-11-08T17:03:21.400" UserId="7275" Text="I bought a laptop that comes with a USB type C 3.1 GEN 1 port, that is also a displayport port (little DP icon - like the one in [this picture](https://www.displayport.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/devices-stack.jpg))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to know is what hubs can I connect to this port? Will the ones with DP/hdmi, usb AND ethernet (like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01EKARUUS)) work? If not, what about same one just without the ethernet? How about the hub with multiple hdmi ports for connecting multiple screens? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26454" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="8f070d44-f681-440b-ae68-270daa0fe15f" CreationDate="2017-11-08T17:03:21.400" UserId="7275" Text="What hubs to use for USB 3.1 gen 1?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26455" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="8f070d44-f681-440b-ae68-270daa0fe15f" CreationDate="2017-11-08T17:03:21.400" UserId="7275" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8364" RevisionGUID="e932f487-b90b-4108-989a-8881fc52ef88" CreationDate="2017-11-08T20:43:14.563" UserId="7278" Text="So, now I have HAF X case, ASUS Rampage IV, and a 1080Ti video card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All fine and well, except I can't fit the video card into the second x16 PCI slot because of the case back panel hinge. So I need another computer case, however, I don't know which to buy: it seems impossible to say in advance if a case would fit all the hardware. All the &quot;large&quot; cases I was able to find are basically the same size as HAF X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the question is -- are there substantially larger computer cases in the market? If yes, how do I find them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26457" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8364" RevisionGUID="e932f487-b90b-4108-989a-8881fc52ef88" CreationDate="2017-11-08T20:43:14.563" UserId="7278" Text="A very large computer case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26458" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8364" RevisionGUID="e932f487-b90b-4108-989a-8881fc52ef88" CreationDate="2017-11-08T20:43:14.563" UserId="7278" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26472" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="83e16035-5ea1-41f7-b3ae-6024560ff86f" CreationDate="2017-11-09T10:50:11.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8367" RevisionGUID="471707bb-ad02-4565-a175-2d51326959fa" CreationDate="2017-11-09T11:04:40.580" UserId="7260" Text="I'm looking for a `high speed pen drive` (not sure about terminology - USB stick?) with `USB Type C` connector and at list `USB 3.1Gen1` speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the `SanDisk` one but it says up to 130MB/s transfer speed and 3.1 speed while the SanDisk Extreme Pro with Type A connector and 3.0 speed says up to 430MB/s transfer speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion?&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: I'll edit the question with links and corrections to my terminology as required in the comments / answers " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26474" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8367" RevisionGUID="471707bb-ad02-4565-a175-2d51326959fa" CreationDate="2017-11-09T11:04:40.580" UserId="7260" Text="USB stick (pen drive) w/ Type-C connector &amp; USB 3.1 speed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26475" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8367" RevisionGUID="471707bb-ad02-4565-a175-2d51326959fa" CreationDate="2017-11-09T11:04:40.580" UserId="7260" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26481" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="7047fc85-00dc-47e8-a7cd-db6cfc86ecfc" CreationDate="2017-11-09T15:33:16.053" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8367" RevisionGUID="77bc1f57-33ec-4163-a350-58bcc31c9301" CreationDate="2017-11-09T15:35:57.673" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 131 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a high speed pen drive (not sure about terminology - USB stick?) with USB Type C connector and at least USB 3.1 Gen1 speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a SanDisk one but it says up to 130MB/s transfer speed and 3.1 speed while the SanDisk Extreme Pro with Type A connector and 3.0 speed says up to 430MB/s transfer speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="dcc6b24a-50f3-42f0-af36-8af8c4ce1579" CreationDate="2017-11-10T17:22:05.327" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off-topic questions. Added info from comments." Text="I bought a laptop (ASUS VivoBook Pro 15 N580VD) that comes with a USB type C 3.1 GEN 1 port, that is also a displayport port (little DP icon - like the one in [this picture](https://www.displayport.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/devices-stack.jpg))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy a hub with an ethernet port, (at least) 2 displayports/HDMIs, at least one USB type A and at least one USB type c port.&#xD;&#xA;I am concerned that a hub like this won't work since the laptop has a gen 1 port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What USB 3.1 Gen 1 hubs would work for my laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26494" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8363" RevisionGUID="ccec9023-811b-433b-a72b-6bcfd74ef67b" CreationDate="2017-11-10T17:22:09.420" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
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  <row Id="26506" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="b8af216c-1bf9-49fe-a8bf-9a190daafd65" CreationDate="2017-11-10T22:20:49.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26510" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8190" RevisionGUID="410ef965-3542-47a5-9a2e-8f4d77a50625" CreationDate="2017-11-11T01:23:32.807" UserId="1459" Comment="Include resolution" Text="I found that LG has recently released a [22&quot; (21.5&quot; Diagonal) UltraFine™ 4K IPS LED Monitor][1] that has a resolution of 4096 x 2304.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-22MD4KA-B-4k-uhd-led-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26512" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="09f777d5-5fb5-4100-a9b7-77a82e0a8a4b" CreationDate="2017-11-11T10:23:56.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8373" RevisionGUID="2656bebf-3653-4056-a8fa-8ecac7031f0d" CreationDate="2017-11-11T15:11:59.720" UserId="203" Text="I recommend a HP printer, specifically the [HP LaserJet Pro M130nw.][1] Amazon claims to sell it for $99 once you add to cart.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;HP has always had the best support on Linux [\[1\]][2][\[2\]][3][\[3\]][4], and the current open source drivers &amp;ndash; which are in the [default Ubuntu repository (main)][5],* and may even be installed by default^ &amp;ndash; claim full support for the M130 series [\[4\]][6]. Linux is also listed as a compatible OS on the [specs page][7]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;It has 802.11 b/g/n as well as 100Base-T Ethernet (and USB 2.0,of course). Print output is 600 dpi maximum, with &quot;FastRes&quot; pixel doubling. Scanning is 600 dpi Colour, 1200 dpi Mono.&#xA;&#xA;Recommended page volume is 150 to 1500 pre month for both Print and Scan, though maximum duty cycle is 10&amp;thinsp;000 pages per month. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Its minimum dimensions are 398&amp;thinsp;×&amp;thinsp;288&amp;thinsp;×&amp;thinsp;231&amp;thinsp;mm, minimum being when all trays are closed, etc. &#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;*&quot;main&quot; means a Canonical maintained package. It likely has the best support.&#xA;&#xA;^if it isn't, just `sudo apt install hplip` in a terminal or search for it in Synaptic or Software Centre. `apt` has a nice progress bar. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[1]:https://www.amazon.com/HP-LaserJet-M130nw-Wireless-Printer/dp/B01N9YOAZ6/&#xA;&#xA;[2]:https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/1cjwez/printer_support_is_there_a_brand_that_has_good/&#xA;&#xA;[3]:https://askubuntu.com/questions/102995/what-is-the-best-printer-for-ubuntu&#xA;&#xA;[4]:https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Printers&#xA;&#xA;[5]:https://packages.ubuntu.com/search?keywords=hplip&amp;searchon=names&amp;suite=all&amp;section=main&#xA;&#xA;[6]:https://developers.hp.com/hp-linux-imaging-and-printing/supported_devices/index&#xA;&#xA;[7]:http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=9365256#!tab=specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26514" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8373" RevisionGUID="3a826d02-bad4-4c2c-82ab-76065c46ce7b" CreationDate="2017-11-11T15:17:54.383" UserId="203" Comment="added 369 characters in body" Text="I recommend a HP printer, specifically the [HP LaserJet Pro M130nw.][1] Amazon claims to sell it for $99 once you add to cart.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;HP has always had the best support on Linux [\[1\]][2][\[2\]][3][\[3\]][4], and the current open source drivers &amp;ndash; which are in the [default Ubuntu repository (main)][5],* and may even be installed by default^ &amp;ndash; claim full support for the M130 series [\[4\]][6]. Linux is also listed as a compatible OS on the [specs page][7]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;It has 802.11 b/g/n as well as 100Base-T Ethernet (and USB 2.0,of course). Print output is 600 dpi maximum, with &quot;FastRes&quot; pixel doubling. Scanning is 600 dpi Colour, 1200 dpi Mono. Unfortunately, there is no autofeeder for the scanner. If you want one, you'll have to pony up for the next higher model. Auto duplex, single pass scanning and colour printing are all at far higher price points&#xA;&#xA;Recommended page volume is 150 to 1500 pre month for both Print and Scan, though maximum duty cycle is 10&amp;thinsp;000 pages per month. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Its minimum dimensions are 398&amp;thinsp;×&amp;thinsp;288&amp;thinsp;×&amp;thinsp;231&amp;thinsp;mm, minimum being when all trays are closed, etc.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;*&quot;main&quot; means a Canonical maintained package. It likely has the best support.&#xA;&#xA;^if it isn't, just `sudo apt install hplip` in a terminal or search for it in Synaptic or Software Centre. `apt` has a nice progress bar.&#xA;&#xA;Also, I'm assuming that laser Mono is preferred over inkjet colour. There may be a relatively affordable inkjet multifunction that also fit the requirements. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[1]:https://www.amazon.com/HP-LaserJet-M130nw-Wireless-Printer/dp/B01N9YOAZ6/&#xA;&#xA;[2]:https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/1cjwez/printer_support_is_there_a_brand_that_has_good/&#xA;&#xA;[3]:https://askubuntu.com/questions/102995/what-is-the-best-printer-for-ubuntu&#xA;&#xA;[4]:https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Printers&#xA;&#xA;[5]:https://packages.ubuntu.com/search?keywords=hplip&amp;searchon=names&amp;suite=all&amp;section=main&#xA;&#xA;[6]:https://developers.hp.com/hp-linux-imaging-and-printing/supported_devices/index&#xA;&#xA;[7]:http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=9365256#!tab=specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26515" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="94ba620d-2168-471b-8e12-295429bd56b0" CreationDate="2017-11-11T18:25:45.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26516" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="a4de7ae4-7d9e-44b3-85d9-0e3045848bee" CreationDate="2017-11-11T19:25:45.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8279" RevisionGUID="6cd848e4-9a85-48a3-b15d-3a0fc81baa14" CreationDate="2017-11-12T14:41:11.573" UserId="7032" Comment="added 258 characters in body" Text="The question [What exactly is the cause of RAM incompatibility?](https://superuser.com/questions/1250578/what-exactly-is-the-cause-of-ram-incompatibility) on superuser provides a good overview of possible causes for incompatibility. The answers to the question provide some interesting reasoning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;You might have two RAM sticks with the same part number and one can tolerate a 5% undervoltage and the other can't, and the mobo might put out a low voltage because it's poorly calibrated.&#xD;&#xA;But, again, this is very rare now. Sane combinations almost always work.&#xD;&#xA;Before DDR2, it was a mess. After DDR2, it was sufficiently standardized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the follow up discussion https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; These days, it's almost always the obvious incompatibilities. That is, if it doesn't work, you can usually figure out why. When you can't, the most likely explanation is that some part is just crappy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;In the old days, weird incompatibilities were not that unusual. But since the DDR2 standard, cases of incompatibility not involving one of the explanations mentioned are fairly rare. Most of those cases are likely to be components that are not quite meeting their specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I built many systems throughout my career and I have not once looked at the supported RAM list before I chose the components. And I have never had any incompatibilities so far. That being said, the list can give guidance to beginners and less experienced people to select the correct components to build a good working system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The answer lies within the memory controller. The memory controller used to be on the north-bridge of the motherboard. It had to negotiate all the features that the CPU supported for direct memory access. So the CPU is really the determining factor that limited what memory you could use even though it appeared to be a motherboard capability. This is more obvious now that the memory controller lives inside the CPU in all modern chips made by Intel, AMD, and ARM. The motherboard firmware contains microcode from the CPU manufacturer that dictates what kind of features for direct memory access it supports. So the software still lives in the motherboard but the hardware is in the CPU now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The clocking of CPU and Memory are directly linked through the Base Clock. They have to be multiples of each other in sync. Aside from that the details of Direct Memory Access are non-trivial and I will not attempt to explain here. My understanding is that just like MB and CPU manufacturers have different implementations and features, so do different memory modules. Within one memory manufacturer, like Kingston, the actual chips could be made by Samsung, Hynix, or someone else. They should all follow a spec but maybe they don't implement every feature the same way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While no answer was accepted, one was given the &quot;bounty&quot;; https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206. The answer provides some examples of what may cause incompatibility. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* (Could not find the specification for INNODISK)&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung datasheet 288pin Unbuffered DIMM &#xD;&#xA;based on 8Gb B-die](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/global/file/product/2017/02/M391A1K43BB1-4.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;* [SK hynix DDR4 SDRAM Unbuffered DIMM Based on 8Gb M-die](http://www.skhynix.com/product/filedata/fileDownload.do?seq=7112)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried to create a comparison table. Mainly for the fun of it :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My best [uninformed] guess is that with the new CPUs, motherboards and memories the main criteria for memory compatibility is the common referred specifications, and any incompatibility issue is mainly due to &quot;bad luck&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                |      INNODISK      |      SK HYNIX      |      SAMSUNG     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;                | M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93 | HMA82GU7MFR8N-TFT0 | M391A2K43BB1-CPB |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |   (revision 1.2)   |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        chipset |  K4A8G085WB-BCPB   |  H5AN8G8NMFR-TFC   |K4A8G085WB-BCPBM00|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       bandwith |     2133 MT/s      |      2133 MT/s     |     2133 MT/s    |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      frequency |    (1066.67MHz)    |    (1066.67MHz)    |      1066MHz     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        voltage |        1.2         |         1.2        |        1.2       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;           rank |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        density |       16GB         |     16GB (2Rx8)    |    16GB (2Gx72)  |&#xD;&#xA;                |                    |1Gx8(H5AN8G8NMFR)*18|1Gx8(K4A8G085WB-BC##)*18|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;        timings |====================+====================+==================|&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;     cycle time |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns     |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tCK(min) |                    |       0.937        |       0.938      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;             CL |         15         |         15         |        15        |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRCD(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRP(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;      tRAS(min) |                    |         33         |         33       |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;       tRC(min) |                    |    47.06 (46.50)   |       47.06      |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;            CMD |                    |                    |                  |&#xD;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Update&#xD;&#xA;I purchased the `M391A2K43BB1-CPB` and installed it; the computer boots without any errors, and no errors are reported after test:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* running MemTest86 (v7.4) 4 to 5 passes (~12h),&#xD;&#xA;* running stressapptest (v1.0.8) `stressapptest -W -s 3600`.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26520" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8374" RevisionGUID="abf55d47-8df1-4df4-acdc-73258c9f1165" CreationDate="2017-11-12T16:08:28.073" UserId="7287" Text="I am looking for a Threadripper-capable X399 motherboard for a video editing computer. I am looking specifically at two features, which I'm not clear whether they have or not:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) I need to install a x16 graphics card, AND a Blackmagic video capture/playout card (https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products) which requires a PCI Express 2.0 4x slot. Can I put the 4x capture card in one of the x16 lanes and have everything working at full speed? (i.e.: the graphics card working at x16, the capture card at x4...). And if I add in the future a second graphics card, can the motherboard accommodate all 3 cards at their full speeds? (the graphics cards at x16 and the capture card at x4).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) All the motherboards I've seen support RAID using the onboard controller. But let's say I install 3 HDs, and I plan to leave one as stand alone (for documents and &quot;regular&quot; files) and set the other two as a RAID-0. Can any motherboard do that? (i.e.: set up a RAID array with only some of the existing drives, not all of them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26521" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8374" RevisionGUID="abf55d47-8df1-4df4-acdc-73258c9f1165" CreationDate="2017-11-12T16:08:28.073" UserId="7287" Text="Threadripper X399 motherboard: questions about PCI lanes and RAID" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26522" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8374" RevisionGUID="abf55d47-8df1-4df4-acdc-73258c9f1165" CreationDate="2017-11-12T16:08:28.073" UserId="7287" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26523" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8375" RevisionGUID="51633933-f630-4d97-87e1-7756303d1829" CreationDate="2017-11-12T17:56:15.530" UserId="7288" Text="I have a laptop that has an HDMI input (just 1). I also have a desktop which has 3 DP and 1 HDMI. Currently, I'm using converters from DP to HDMI as my monitors have problems with DP for some reason. All in all, I can use HDMI everywhere. I have my desktop filled up with all 4 ports. 3 DP ports (converted to HDMI) are connected to my monitors and 1 (HDMI) is connected to my HTC Vive. Now I do a lot of my gaming on the desktop and that is the main purpose, so I would like not to sacrifice performance by using some hardware that will add latency. As for laptop its here for web development, however, I find myself when developing having a need for more than 1 screen. I also like my desktop keyboard and mouse a lot better than my laptop components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to avoid having to unplug things from my desktop to hook up my monitors and keyboard. But even then, my laptop only has 1 HDMI spot where desktop has 4. Please also keep in mind the laptop has a dedicated GTX960 card so I am hoping it can handle 3 monitors, or even 2 will do just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to do is basically be able to start using my laptop and &quot;switch&quot; my monitors to display the laptop input. Can I accomplish this somehow? I was looking into KVM Switches but I look at the hardware I don't see how I can hook up more than one monitor. Maybe I'm looking at bad examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not that familiar with KVM switches or for that matter any hardware that can help me accomplish this, so if you can provide me with some basic setup steps of how I would accomplish this using any hardware you can think of, I would greatly appreciate it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for budget, I'd like to keep it under $250 but if its more than that I will consider it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26524" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8375" RevisionGUID="51633933-f630-4d97-87e1-7756303d1829" CreationDate="2017-11-12T17:56:15.530" UserId="7288" Text="Connecting a Laptop and Desktop to 3 monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26525" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8375" RevisionGUID="51633933-f630-4d97-87e1-7756303d1829" CreationDate="2017-11-12T17:56:15.530" UserId="7288" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8377" RevisionGUID="36bc3c14-e4f9-4522-9e46-9de9a402161b" CreationDate="2017-11-13T01:42:29.443" UserId="7291" Text="I'm looking for a monitor to do photo editing on Linux. I have been really impressed by the [Apple iMac 5k displays](https://www.apple.com/shop/buy-mac/imac/27-inch-imac-with-retina-5k-display): the display is really sharp and the colors are really amazing. Obviously, I won't switch to a Mac because of this: I have other constraints (namely, my freedom). So I wonder if I should take the leap into the 4k world. I'm concerned about my computer (an [Intel NUC BOXNUC6I3SYH](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc6i3syh.html)) not being fast enough to drive such a display. I'm also concern about everything looking too small because of 4k support missing from my distro (Debian GNU/Linux &quot;stretch&quot;, running under Xmonad).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm especially wondering about the color gamut: it seems that most monitors do not care about giving you a full Adobe RGB coverage. Maybe I don't understand this correctly, but it seems it would be better to have 100% Adobe RGB than 100% sRGB color space, although I must admit I am mostly working with sRGB these days. Should I care?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise my specs are fairly modest: I have a [HP L2245wg](https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-l2245w-22-inch-widescreen-lcd-monitor/3648391/drivers), a 22&quot; display that's serving me well. I like the rotative feature, but I could live without that swivel, especially since there doesn't seem to be a way to auto-rotate the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any recommendation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26531" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8377" RevisionGUID="36bc3c14-e4f9-4522-9e46-9de9a402161b" CreationDate="2017-11-13T01:42:29.443" UserId="7291" Text="good monitor for linux photo editing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26532" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8377" RevisionGUID="36bc3c14-e4f9-4522-9e46-9de9a402161b" CreationDate="2017-11-13T01:42:29.443" UserId="7291" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8380" RevisionGUID="b70f0674-711a-4314-aaf2-53137e9a726a" CreationDate="2017-11-13T12:58:34.037" UserId="7293" Text="I currently have a laptop with a display I would describe as &quot;glossy&quot;. When the screen is dark you can perfectly see your mirror image. Unfortunately this is often very inconvenient because bad lighting immediately makes the screen unusable. That's why I would like to avoid this for my next purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please tell me what these kinds of matt displays are called so I can properly search for it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26538" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8380" RevisionGUID="b70f0674-711a-4314-aaf2-53137e9a726a" CreationDate="2017-11-13T12:58:34.037" UserId="7293" Text="What is the opposite of a glossy display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26539" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8380" RevisionGUID="b70f0674-711a-4314-aaf2-53137e9a726a" CreationDate="2017-11-13T12:58:34.037" UserId="7293" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8381" RevisionGUID="ae5471a1-74c4-456d-8088-a72a2193db97" CreationDate="2017-11-13T15:35:59.097" UserId="6907" Text="You can go for either matte surface or anti-glare ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rough matte surface panels are still mostly used in the business notebook segment. The other type of anti-glare computer screens, which uses a chemical coating over a smooth surface to cut down glare, is more used on glare panels to minimize the amount of glare there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anti-glare surfaces have a smooth surface but reduced reflection.&#xD;&#xA;Matte has a rough surface and no reflection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26543" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8380" RevisionGUID="c2f08f1a-7f69-471f-b5a6-ae73e6ff813e" CreationDate="2017-11-13T16:25:59.660" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8383" RevisionGUID="76b4c2ec-4bf8-43f6-b240-de39f768a48c" CreationDate="2017-11-13T17:45:19.333" UserId="4504" Text="I have the same setup, except with a GTX 970. I use a cheap-o VGA kvm and it works great.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;This HDMI KVM is what your are looking for.  &#xD;&#xA;[Sea Wit HDMI KVM Switch - 2 Port KVM Switcher Supports 1080P 4Kx2K ][1]  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The setup is very easy, have one cable from your GPU plug into HDMI 1, and another from your laptop plug into HDMI 2... Then what ever monitor you want to use to switch between desktop/laptop... plug that monitor into HDMI out. Then simply plug in your mouse/keyboard into the KVM.   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I keep my laptop on the left side of my desk, so I use my left monitor and leave the other 2 connected to the desktop. I kept my KVM on my desk for a while, but realized that I just hit scroll lock 2 times and windows would automatically switch the kvm for me, so now its tucked behind the desk.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Let me know if you have any other questions, I'm sure there are cheaper options out there... but this one has good reviews, even if their marketing seems a bit hyped.   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Wit-HDMI-KVM-Switch/dp/B073ZF4VR5/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510594679&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=kvm+switch+hdmi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26551" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="bbb93368-b0d7-4816-a7fa-3bdec8725e87" CreationDate="2017-11-13T19:44:25.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8385" RevisionGUID="6e2fbdd7-dd71-40ab-989f-052ae0fb5cb8" CreationDate="2017-11-13T19:49:05.877" UserId="7288" Text="For the time being, until I hear a better solution, I came up with a workaround... I am using TeamViewer to get on my laptop and do work there. One monitor is feed from laptop, while the other 2 are from desktop. If I need to copy things over, I can easily achieve that as TeamViewer lets you copy text. Images I can do via shared drive or directly access the drive from desktop to laptop. Furthermore, I have setup to have access to my websites on laptop from my desktop via browser. Now I can hit a page on desktop and debug on laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I Posted this to let you all know what my workaround is at the moment so anyone who may like this may use it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8387" RevisionGUID="874b648b-e966-43d2-8618-5f2ab19410c7" CreationDate="2017-11-13T20:57:27.943" UserId="6491" Text="For a server aimed to centralize the documents of a 10-people team, which kind of media would you advise to have a system that is both responsive and reliable?&#xD;&#xA;I want the server not hanging and that when opening documents users have the same impression as if those were stored on their own desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see the following benefits and drawbacks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A) PCIe SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - fastest transfer rates&#xD;&#xA; - very pricey&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B) SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - fast (but not as much as PCIe however)&#xD;&#xA; - existing models for datacenters&#xD;&#xA; - could be used in RAID 1 for full redundancy&#xD;&#xA; - limited capacity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C) HDD with large buffer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - low cost&#xD;&#xA; - available in large capacities&#xD;&#xA; - could be used in RAID 1 (or in RAID 1+0 to increase transfer speeds)&#xD;&#xA; - slower than SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having two datacenter-grade SSD (Intel DC S3500 480 GB), I was planning using either only one of them, or both in RAID 1.&#xD;&#xA;Would it be a good choice for a small-business server?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming that archives would be stored on larger hard drives, I plan using the SSD for the OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a way to capitalize on the free remaining space of SSD as some kind of buffer, in the same spirit as how SSHD (hybrid drives) work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26557" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8387" RevisionGUID="874b648b-e966-43d2-8618-5f2ab19410c7" CreationDate="2017-11-13T20:57:27.943" UserId="6491" Text="PCIe SSD, SATA SSD or Hard disk drives for a 10-workers server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26558" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8387" RevisionGUID="874b648b-e966-43d2-8618-5f2ab19410c7" CreationDate="2017-11-13T20:57:27.943" UserId="6491" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8388" RevisionGUID="b225e7fc-9e76-4999-815d-0184d629a89e" CreationDate="2017-11-13T21:26:45.957" UserId="7296" Text="First of all, _impression as if stored on their own desktop_ is not something you will be able to get, unless files are very small. Accessing files via network is, of course, noticeably slower. Not much, but just noticeably. Though iSCSI sometimes does an _awesome_ job at caching locally (SMB not so).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, a simple SATA hard disk (with nothing special) is almost certainly entirely sufficient. Not only will the server perform caching in RAM, but also the harddisk is not the bottleneck. 10 workers is not much of a challenge to even a small NAS intended for home use, unless what they call &quot;work&quot; is something like transcoding video streams. 10 people working, that means maybe two or three dozen disk accesses per minute, at most. What about it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a GbE network, you can get around 110-115 MB/s throughput, not more (well, twice that, if your switch as well as your computers support link aggregation). A single harddisk can deliver that. Easily. While this sounds good, remember that you will not always have large contiguous reads. In fact, most of the time you don't.  &#xD;&#xA;Access time over network is, well, let's say _not that great_. So, whether or not the _actual_ disk is somewhat slower or faster makes not that much of a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're using both SMB shares and iSCSI on Synology over GbE here (with link aggregation support), and the disk is by no means the limiting factor. I've tried every setup from a single disk to 4-disk RAID-0 (as well as every other RAID level that makes sense), and the real, observable difference is _exactly zero_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't tried SSD, but I am very confident that the difference would be zero, too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8388" RevisionGUID="7083e08b-78f1-4236-9551-6b5f4c7550fe" CreationDate="2017-11-13T21:57:26.433" UserId="7296" Comment="added 461 characters in body" Text="First of all, _impression as if stored on their own desktop_ is not something you will be able to get, unless files are very small. Accessing files via network is, of course, noticeably slower. Not much, but just noticeably. Though iSCSI sometimes does an _awesome_ job at caching locally (SMB not so).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, a simple SATA hard disk (with nothing special) is almost certainly entirely sufficient. Not only will the server perform caching in RAM, but also the harddisk is not the bottleneck. 10 workers is not much of a challenge to even a small NAS intended for home use, unless what they call &quot;work&quot; is something like transcoding video streams. 10 people working, that means maybe two or three dozen disk accesses per minute, at most. What about it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a GbE network, you can get around 110-115 MB/s throughput, not more (well, twice that, if your switch as well as your computers support link aggregation). A single harddisk can deliver that. Easily. While this sounds good, remember that you will not always have large contiguous reads. In fact, most of the time you don't.  &#xD;&#xA;Access time over network is, well, let's say _not that great_. So, whether or not the _actual_ disk is somewhat slower or faster makes not that much of a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're using both SMB shares and iSCSI on Synology over GbE here (with link aggregation support), and the disk is by no means the limiting factor. I've tried every setup from a single disk to 4-disk RAID-0 (as well as every other RAID level that makes sense), and the real, observable difference is _exactly zero_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't tried SSD, but I am very confident that the difference would be zero, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To give you an idea about how much latency can matter (not raw troughput), if you compare a task that is prone to access time such as for example indexing a 12GB movie in Avidemux (lots of small reads), I get about 300 frames per second indexed over SMB, about 650 over iSCSI, about 20,000 and 25,000-27,000 on SATA-SSD and nvme-SSD, respectively (both Samsung 950s). With the movie being in the buffer cache, I get 33,000-34,000. That's network versus local, and bus versus no bus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26561" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8389" RevisionGUID="b930addd-f6bf-46f7-a9ad-ccc426386a17" CreationDate="2017-11-13T22:54:54.403" UserId="7297" Text="We have an auditorium used for classes.  The classes are given in English.  We have several international students who speak English, but have trouble keeping up with the pace of a lecture in English.  To assist them, we want to add &quot;subtitles&quot; in their native language.  (We'll hire someone to type the subtitles in real time as the lecturer is speaking).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there good &quot;subtitle screens&quot; for this?  I was thinking something like an LED display might work well, but I can't find anything in the consumer range.  Ideally, we want something we can connect to a wireless network and send text in real time from a networked computer.  The screen does not need to display anything except the text we send it.  It needs to support unicode text." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26562" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8389" RevisionGUID="b930addd-f6bf-46f7-a9ad-ccc426386a17" CreationDate="2017-11-13T22:54:54.403" UserId="7297" Text="Such a thing as a &quot;subtitle screen&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26563" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8389" RevisionGUID="b930addd-f6bf-46f7-a9ad-ccc426386a17" CreationDate="2017-11-13T22:54:54.403" UserId="7297" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26569" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="fcee4ef3-2170-4877-a5c5-f72e8595fddf" CreationDate="2017-11-14T11:49:09.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26570" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8323" RevisionGUID="395d501c-5203-4d3d-8351-393d2b0a19ca" CreationDate="2017-11-14T13:09:25.587" UserId="1862" Comment="65" />
  <row Id="26571" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="8a3c2f44-406c-4d50-b6ea-8f36f20c0b80" CreationDate="2017-11-14T17:49:12.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8392" RevisionGUID="11221eb5-a539-4887-b9d7-4139166ca964" CreationDate="2017-11-15T05:17:52.693" UserId="7125" Text="Thinking about this what you are wanting is what amounts to a one way chat application. Someone is typing into a chat window and what they type is displayed on the LED displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the LED display will display will depend on the software driving the display so the crucial detail would seem to be the need to have a computing device that supports UTF-8 and Unicode with fonts with the necessary symbol set for the language desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a number of open source chat type systems such as described in [5 open source alternatives to Slack for team chat][1]. The question would be what support any of these have for non-Western languages such as Mandarin or Arabic. Languages such as Mandarin and Japanese have a large symbol set and Arabic is written right to left rather than left to right and there are various kinds of ligatures between symbols.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or I suppose you could just have a remote session to a full screen word processing application and just type into that and let it scroll up and off the screen? That actually might be the easiest approach as the necessary multi-lingual capabilities should be available and you can change the font size easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would consider using a Raspberry Pi 3 or similar small device to drive the LED displays. The Raspberry Pi has several alternative operating systems with Raspbian, a Linux variant, being the standard default. The Raspberry Pi 3 Model B has built in WiFi, 1 GB of RAM, and an HDMI display output. You could set up a device such as a laptop or even a phone and remote into the Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://opensource.com/alternatives/slack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="850585a2-efdb-4667-84c9-7be4ade1ed04" CreationDate="2017-11-15T09:02:44.960" UserId="1466" Comment="added 437 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2017-11-15 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PaperLike Pro** e-ink panel 2nd generation of PaperLike. It supports **HDMI** interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer: Dasung [(see English site)][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This can be currently purchased also via SOL Computer, see the Dasung or SOL Computer site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://www.dasungtech.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike%20pro&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26580" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="5b9fa386-f942-4d61-a740-3263db6ae1c2" CreationDate="2017-11-15T09:09:22.143" UserId="1466" Comment="added 437 characters in body" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xD;&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xD;&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xD;&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xD;&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;2017-11-15 update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PaperLike Pro** e-ink panel 2nd generation of PaperLike. It supports **HDMI** interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer: Dasung [(see English site)][14]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This can be currently purchased also via SOL Computer, see the Dasung or SOL Computer site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]                [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][16]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: http://www.dasungtech.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/imDck.png&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike%20pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8393" RevisionGUID="e2193618-eeb7-45c6-92c6-d8c0650c084e" CreationDate="2017-11-15T12:59:07.080" UserId="7305" Text="My Kinesis Advantage keyboard has its home row keys accentuated by a different shape than other keys. Home row keys (pictured: blue) are hollowed out in both dimensions, as opposed to other keys that are only hollowed out along the length of the key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I quite like the feel of this sort of key cap and would like to replace all of the keys on my portable 60% keyboard (Magicforce 68) with similar keys.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's this sort of key cap called, where can I get a set, and, if any, what's a good set to purchase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A7ABu.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26582" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8393" RevisionGUID="e2193618-eeb7-45c6-92c6-d8c0650c084e" CreationDate="2017-11-15T12:59:07.080" UserId="7305" Text="&quot;Inverse dome&quot; key caps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26583" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8393" RevisionGUID="e2193618-eeb7-45c6-92c6-d8c0650c084e" CreationDate="2017-11-15T12:59:07.080" UserId="7305" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8394" RevisionGUID="ec6abbb6-79ff-4334-bcfd-149926875c15" CreationDate="2017-11-15T14:14:03.680" UserId="7305" Text="I consulted Reddit's [MechanicalKeyboards][1] forum recently, and the consensus for the best cheap mechanical keyboard appears to be the [Magicforce 68][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although it's a 60% percent board, as opposed to the larger board you linked, and its 'blue' switches aren't Cherry, you still might find this recommendation useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/2ytOE6n" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8394" RevisionGUID="65df46dd-ede0-440c-abd9-ddeb91dc0bdf" CreationDate="2017-11-15T14:27:01.513" UserId="7305" Comment="added 173 characters in body; added 46 characters in body; deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I consulted Reddit's [MechanicalKeyboards][1] forum recently, and the consensus for the best cheap mechanical keyboard appears to be the [Magicforce 68][2]. Although it's a 60% percent board, as opposed to the larger board you linked, and its 'blue' switches aren't Cherry, you still might find this recommendation useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, and on the more expensive side, I've been very happy with [Das Keyboard][3] (Model S) which is just above your max cost but has a lot of bang for the buck in my mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://a.co/2ytOE6n&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.daskeyboard.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8395" RevisionGUID="d95c8835-8844-4cbd-abdc-c0a18215eaa5" CreationDate="2017-11-15T14:51:12.903" UserId="4786" Text="I am planning on getting into the Cryptocurrency scene pretty soon, and I plan to mine non-SHA256 coins (i.e coins not like Bitcoin), and therefore I plan to use GPUs extensively, rather than ASIC hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a fairly tight budget right now per card, around $450 USD, and AFAIK the GTX 10 Series are the best bang-for-buck for non-Bitcoin coins. I have found these two cards on Amazon (links below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Card 1 --&gt; [EVGA][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Card 2 --&gt; [Gigabyte][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to know is, which of these cards is better for mining with? Even if it's just a marginal advantage over the other. I want to get the most performance from these cards before I have to replace them later down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done research about this question, but have not found any concrete evidence that can help me decide the victor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for viewing!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510659193&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gtx%201080&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-43000&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-WINDFORCE-REV2-0-GV-N1070WF2OC-8GD/dp/B075DF4PTF/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510656004&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=gtx%201070&amp;refinements=p_n_shipping_option-bin%3A3242350011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8395" RevisionGUID="d95c8835-8844-4cbd-abdc-c0a18215eaa5" CreationDate="2017-11-15T14:51:12.903" UserId="4786" Text="Comparing two GTX 1070s for Mining" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8395" RevisionGUID="d95c8835-8844-4cbd-abdc-c0a18215eaa5" CreationDate="2017-11-15T14:51:12.903" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26589" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8393" RevisionGUID="98b9d46c-ef63-4324-8c22-776c6b17a77e" CreationDate="2017-11-15T15:46:42.103" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8396" RevisionGUID="a03025b4-1932-4714-9b44-2629d932d3d1" CreationDate="2017-11-15T20:31:15.687" UserId="5629" Text="With [DD-WRT][1], anything is possible! Try a live demo [here][2]. Note that the demo is outdated and many features have been disabled on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DD-WRT is a custom firmware available for a variety of routers that adds many additional features such as supporting multiple different wireless networks connected to different vlans, hosting a VPN server, and much, much more! There are other solutions such as [Tomato][3], [OpenWRT][4], and [LEDE][5], but I haven't used those and I know for a fact that DD-WRT does what you're asking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simply take a router that works with DD-WRT (compatibility can be checked [here][7], see [] for a list of current recommended routers) and flash DD-WRT onto it (A general installation guide is available [here][8], google for a router-specific guide as each router is slightly different.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Warning! incorrect installation of DD-WRT can [Brick][6] your router, so be careful and follow a router-specific installation guide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With your fresh DD-WRT head to 192.168.1.1. There you will be prompted to set the web interface's login info. Do so and head to the Wireless-&gt;Basic Settings submenu. Here you can edit the default SSIDs and add more under the &quot;Virtual Interfaces&quot; list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You use different VLANs for separate networks, but I'm not familiar enough with networking to tell you how to do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dd-wrt.com/demo/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.polarcloud.com/tomato&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://lede-project.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Installation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8397" RevisionGUID="bfa5a152-40a8-4bb0-9a63-1fa22bacab48" CreationDate="2017-11-15T20:55:03.563" UserId="241" Text="They're both GTX 1070 graphics cards with 8 GB of GDDR5 running at 8.008 GT/s on a 256-bit bus.  They both use two cooling fans with similar heatsink setups, require one 8-pin PCIe power connection, and have the same five output connectors.  In short, they're virtually identical cards for an identical price of $439.99.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're looking for a reason to pick one over the other, the EVGA card is clocked 0.7% faster than the Gigabyte.  It's also half an inch shorter and three-quarters of an inch narrower, making for a better fit in a crowded case.  The true power draw isn't specified, but the faster clock speed probably corresponds to an increase of 1.5%." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26593" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8076" RevisionGUID="b423da29-abac-4f95-b1a7-a65ee176dc02" CreationDate="2017-11-15T20:59:15.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26594" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="452aa738-2410-4be0-869c-a1b3a185d265" CreationDate="2017-11-15T21:59:14.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26595" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="5ca15b29-c496-4590-8f9b-bd8329f8d64a" CreationDate="2017-11-16T02:59:16.930" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26610" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="10a4e457-52e9-48cd-871d-1c1d67143390" CreationDate="2017-11-17T06:00:14.063" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/340336/choosing-a-laptop" />
  <row Id="26611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="8e59c20d-95e8-4486-9642-982308d6831b" CreationDate="2017-11-17T05:31:47.683" UserId="7316" UserDisplayName="user161778" Text="I'm a ECE student. I'm having trouble choosing the right laptop. My Butget is between 500 to 1500 US Dollars. I'm not intrested in gaming. I'm fine with thick or bulky laptops. The main thing I am looking for is good performance for softwares an ECE student would need and a good life. &#xA;&#xA;1.What requirements should I look for?&#xA;(graphics card, RAM, core, no. of cores) &#xA;&#xA;2. Should I go for gaming laptops or normal ones( I'm not interested much in gaming)? &#xA;&#xA;Thanks in advance. &#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26612" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="8e59c20d-95e8-4486-9642-982308d6831b" CreationDate="2017-11-17T05:31:47.683" UserId="7316" UserDisplayName="user161778" Text="Choosing a Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26613" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="8e59c20d-95e8-4486-9642-982308d6831b" CreationDate="2017-11-17T05:31:47.683" UserId="7316" UserDisplayName="user161778" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26614" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="de6917dc-ec9b-41e4-9710-b8c3e515ae31" CreationDate="2017-11-17T08:10:57.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8402" RevisionGUID="094a53a2-6d43-4d83-8cfc-4e3586cabe27" CreationDate="2017-11-17T10:40:17.660" UserId="6491" Text="As operating a professional data recovery service, I would not a advise using a NAS (see below why).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My golden rule is &quot;KISS&quot; : Keep It Simple, Stupid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Use preferably professional-grade hard drives (with 5 years warranty) if you can afford them.&#xD;&#xA;  You can buy them second hand if you want to reduce costs, but format them fully and afterwards check the SMART values with a software like HDSentinel or HDTune.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Don't put all eggs in the same basket. &#xD;&#xA;  If something goes wrong with one drive, you can go on working on other projets whilst the data recovery is being done by a data recovery company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If you have a tower PC, use one (or more) hot swap bays to make inserting/removing hard drives easy.&#xD;&#xA;  For instance: http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=141&#xD;&#xA;  Huge benefit : you'll have SATA speeds when doing your backups. Much faster than USB 3.&#xD;&#xA;  On Windows, the HotSwap! utility will be the perfect companion of the hot swap bay: http://mt-naka.com/hotswap/index_enu.htm&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- For regular backups, use a file synchronizer, like FreeFileSync for instance, which will make your life easier:&#xD;&#xA;  https://www.freefilesync.org/.&#xD;&#xA;  Preferably don't use such tool on your long term backups to limit the risk of human mistakes.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Don't forget that drives that are not spinning for a long time can catch some kind of rhumatism (platters oxidation, a.s.o.)&#xD;&#xA;  Make multiple copies.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Preferably use backup hard drives from different brands. &#xD;&#xA;  So, if one brand or serie is subjet to a particular failure (eg. firmware bug) you will have more peace in mind that other drives that are not affected by it.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;- Store your backups in one or preferably more locations that is away from the your office, in order to limit the risks of loosing all your data (burglary, fire, water damage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Store the drives in a cool and dry room and use an air dryer (dessicant) for that room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Additionnally, you can use anti-moisture/anti-ESD bags with a small dessicant bag in them (silica gel or equivalent).&#xD;&#xA;  Some bags have more foils than others and make a better moisture barrier.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;**Why I would not advise a NAS:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NAS often use RAID systems, and RAID 5 is frequent amongst systems using three drives or more.&#xD;&#xA;When things go wrong, it can be pretty difficult (and long) to recover data from RAID 5.&#xD;&#xA;And I can ensure you that things go sometimes wrong with RAID 5 arrays.&#xD;&#xA;For instance, problems can become visible after more that one drive have failed.&#xD;&#xA;Any serious data recovery company will have identify which drives(s) is/are defficient and this can take time as a full scan of each drive may be necessary in some case.&#xD;&#xA;Most of the time, defective drives will have to be cloned to healthy ones before a data recovery can occurs.&#xD;&#xA;NAS systems are mini-computers, with a tiny operating system. When problems like bad sectors affect the operating system, the OS may fail to start.&#xD;&#xA;Reassemblying stripes from RAID 5 systems is not obvious, as several parameters will have to be &quot;guessed&quot; (width of stripes, order of disks, offset, a.s.o.) with the help of softwares and often using an hexadecimal editor.&#xD;&#xA;All this requires hand and brain work and time. Waiting days or weeks can be painful for any company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To all these drawbacks, one should mention that to spare on license costs, most NAS use systems based on the Linux kernel and many use the ext3 file system.&#xD;&#xA;The nature of the ext3 file system makes a data recovery more difficult, also in case of accidental file deletion,&#xD;&#xA;especially as one cannot reconstruct the folder tree and have the files keep their name like with NTFS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you however want a NAS take it RAID 1 (= full redundancy)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8403" RevisionGUID="c21e2b20-4503-41bf-8e96-e00ca202f3b9" CreationDate="2017-11-17T14:05:13.473" UserId="5276" Text="I´m looking for a pen that I can use on any surface (like a table) as a mouse-like input for a tablet, phone or laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does something like that exist?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8403" RevisionGUID="c21e2b20-4503-41bf-8e96-e00ca202f3b9" CreationDate="2017-11-17T14:05:13.473" UserId="5276" Text="Tablet pen that doesnt need a conductive surface/touch the tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8403" RevisionGUID="c21e2b20-4503-41bf-8e96-e00ca202f3b9" CreationDate="2017-11-17T14:05:13.473" UserId="5276" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="b408d019-da52-4d91-9ddf-bbc93b1808e9" CreationDate="2017-11-17T14:12:59.740" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="b75853d8-16b8-4ad2-919d-1287fd1407d2" CreationDate="2017-11-17T16:53:41.087" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off-topic questions" Text="I'm a ECE student. I'm having trouble choosing the right laptop. My budget is between 500 to 1500 US dollars. I'm not interested in gaming. I'm fine with thick or bulky laptops. The main thing I am looking for is good performance for software an ECE student would need and a good life. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26621" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="4611b6ba-8e0c-4f9e-9428-e19d03010d8e" CreationDate="2017-11-17T19:14:40.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26623" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8401" RevisionGUID="603148de-9b6e-4f63-aeea-8df5966216fe" CreationDate="2017-11-18T02:15:04.267" UserId="7316" Comment="added 270 characters in body" Text="I'm a ECE student. I'm having trouble choosing the right laptop. My budget is between 500 to 1500 US dollars. I'm not interested in gaming. I'm fine with thick or bulky laptops. The main thing I am looking for is good performance for software an ECE student would need and a good life. &#xA;&#xA;Edited:&#xA;&#xA;Thanks alot for the response! &#xA;&#xA;I don't have any resolutions or screen size preferences. &#xA;&#xA;By good life I would want it to last for about 4 years at least. &#xA;&#xA;Softwares that I would use would mainly be Matlab, Multism, Pspice, LabVIEW and maybe solid works. &#xA;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26624" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8404" RevisionGUID="f893086f-1de2-419e-b577-912e666a3b2d" CreationDate="2017-11-18T02:39:21.260" UserId="4933" Text="I'm in need of a 3.5&quot; 3TB HDD to be used as an all-encompassing backup drive for the rest of my data, as I don't currently have a system in place and that needs to change as soon as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the drive will be a backup drive it will be kept hooked up to my desktop but read from and written to less frequently than the average internal HDD, and so it doesn't need to be exceptional quality; however, my personal circumstances mean that I'm on a very tight budget, so it does generally need to be available for under £50 while remaining a reliable drive for the above purposes, and the cheaper it can be found for the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Can anyone recommend anything?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26625" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8404" RevisionGUID="f893086f-1de2-419e-b577-912e666a3b2d" CreationDate="2017-11-18T02:39:21.260" UserId="4933" Text="Cheap, reasonable 3TB internal HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26626" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8404" RevisionGUID="f893086f-1de2-419e-b577-912e666a3b2d" CreationDate="2017-11-18T02:39:21.260" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26627" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="0fe0be6b-d4a2-44c9-b6af-30a40657f79b" CreationDate="2017-11-18T06:19:31.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8405" RevisionGUID="80a8f9ad-a53a-4a08-9992-1877f216154e" CreationDate="2017-11-18T07:20:42.977" UserId="4097" Text="Need to print about 1000 stickers/month with the product description. Should I purchase a label maker or a printer? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the past couple of years, about 3 printers I've bought have stopped working. I am looking for something reliable and cost-efficient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26629" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8405" RevisionGUID="80a8f9ad-a53a-4a08-9992-1877f216154e" CreationDate="2017-11-18T07:20:42.977" UserId="4097" Text="Label Maker or printer for bulk production of product description stickers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26630" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8405" RevisionGUID="80a8f9ad-a53a-4a08-9992-1877f216154e" CreationDate="2017-11-18T07:20:42.977" UserId="4097" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="d63d3867-a6d4-49e7-865e-16a1edefcf18" CreationDate="2017-11-18T11:20:08.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8406" RevisionGUID="a990ddbe-86af-45ff-8c0b-ca15ffd048a2" CreationDate="2017-11-18T20:09:20.397" UserId="7318" Text="I'm looking for a device that will play music files like flacs and mp3s, and output them digitally through SPDIF or USB, while not needing a screen to control it. (Having a basic LCD would be acceptable, but not preferred.) I don't want it to be portable, having a battery and such.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Imagine it having the simplicity of a traditional CD player, but able to play files and navigate folders." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26633" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8406" RevisionGUID="a990ddbe-86af-45ff-8c0b-ca15ffd048a2" CreationDate="2017-11-18T20:09:20.397" UserId="7318" Text="Screenless Non-Portable Music Player with digital output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26634" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8406" RevisionGUID="a990ddbe-86af-45ff-8c0b-ca15ffd048a2" CreationDate="2017-11-18T20:09:20.397" UserId="7318" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26635" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8407" RevisionGUID="9f00cffd-d79e-40be-81e5-1c9eeccb8a93" CreationDate="2017-11-18T22:11:46.507" UserId="5445" Text="I finally found a product that does what I want, the [OBi200](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUV7C9A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BUV7C9A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=obihatechn-20).  It's $50, and it's not a phone, you still need to buy a home phone separately and plug it into it.  But you don't need to get a paid VOIP or SIP service at all.  All you need is Google Voice, which is free.  This solution allows you to make and receive unlimited domestic calls within the US for free.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the set up is pretty straightforward, but one problem I ran into is that I couldn't receive calls at first. It turns out way to solve that problem is to go into Google Voice settings, and under &quot;Forward calls to&quot;, select &quot;Google Chat&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8408" RevisionGUID="e17b19da-e2a6-40f7-a58b-479f1245b79c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T22:42:21.297" UserId="4755" Text="I am looking for a cheap gimbal and action camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the action camera, I would like it to be capable of...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4K or 1080p recording&#xD;&#xA; - recording a live output to a fpv transmitter, just like Gopro&#xD;&#xA; - recording 4K or 1080p to an SD card while outputting a live (slightly lower) resolution of fpv footage to a transmitter&#xD;&#xA; - I would like it to be cheap, so if it does break, I could easily buy another one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the gimbal...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It needs to stabilise very well&#xD;&#xA; - 2 axis OR 3 axis if it’s below around £50&#xD;&#xA; - Must keep vibrations dampened enough to not be seen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sid" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8408" RevisionGUID="e17b19da-e2a6-40f7-a58b-479f1245b79c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T22:42:21.297" UserId="4755" Text="Cheap gimbal and action camera for hexacopter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8408" RevisionGUID="e17b19da-e2a6-40f7-a58b-479f1245b79c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T22:42:21.297" UserId="4755" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26643" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="24d009c5-41b0-4175-b178-805302b91649" CreationDate="2017-11-19T13:45:31.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8410" RevisionGUID="1ea59e78-b526-4608-a1a0-c0a720f145a3" CreationDate="2017-11-19T15:54:57.740" UserId="7325" Text="In these days it is hard to find any laptop with an anti-glare display. Some ZenBooks have had them in 2016.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody have a recommendation für a 13&quot; laptop with 8th-gen core-processor and anti-glare display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26645" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8410" RevisionGUID="1ea59e78-b526-4608-a1a0-c0a720f145a3" CreationDate="2017-11-19T15:54:57.740" UserId="7325" Text="13&quot; Laptop with anti-glare display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26646" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8410" RevisionGUID="1ea59e78-b526-4608-a1a0-c0a720f145a3" CreationDate="2017-11-19T15:54:57.740" UserId="7325" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="e6294ac7-3989-4347-9077-88359172c234" CreationDate="2017-11-19T17:39:35.250" UserId="7327" Text="If you can't name just one, name a few. In this case, price does not matter. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26651" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="e6294ac7-3989-4347-9077-88359172c234" CreationDate="2017-11-19T17:39:35.250" UserId="7327" Text="What is the most powerful processor you can use for an Alienware 17 R4 laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26652" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="e6294ac7-3989-4347-9077-88359172c234" CreationDate="2017-11-19T17:39:35.250" UserId="7327" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26653" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="385795df-d252-41cf-8bf6-839ccd31dc05" CreationDate="2017-11-19T17:59:30.013" UserId="7327" Comment="edited title" Text="What is the most powerful processor you can use for an Alienware 17 R3 laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26654" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="fdf7e5ea-0ec5-4bf3-8857-f98bc2bd0d46" CreationDate="2017-11-19T18:03:50.183" UserId="7327" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7327,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Computer_User101&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26655" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="ecce5be2-3b9c-4ff2-b060-0964d6b8e8b5" CreationDate="2017-11-19T18:04:07.327" UserId="7327" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7327,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Computer_User101&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8413" RevisionGUID="cbb7b94d-8d8d-4b14-965d-d76248bb5f09" CreationDate="2017-11-19T18:08:13.653" UserId="273" Text="The Alienware 17 R3 and R4 run on Intel Core i7-6700HQ or i7-7820HK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These [CPUs][1] run the socket `FCBGA1440`. Thus it cannot be upgraded, especially not with a desktop-grade CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The Pin-count (1440) miss-matches those of the desktop CPUs (1151, 2011).&#xD;&#xA; - The CPU is physically soldered onto the board, it cannot be easily removed and even if you would succeed, you'd be back to the first point and these CPUs are just about the most beefy CPUs there are for this socket / power class.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/97464" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8416" RevisionGUID="1d4d1258-2108-4793-aa95-74d0106551e4" CreationDate="2017-11-20T03:32:12.467" UserId="1921" Text="The most important difference is desktops are upgrade able and 99% of laptops are not.  Need a faster GPU make sure your power supply can handle it, your case can fit it, and then buy any GPU upgrade.  Just buy a desktop(Full Tower) than can fit a 12&quot; long video card(and standard power supply 750w ) and you can plug anything into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A laptop has a fixed power budget, and even if you could swap out the GPU you the extra heat and electrical current could burn out circuits.  I have seen a few laptops with swap-able graphics, but at prices over $4000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D work requires a higher end GPU, and the bigger the project the more GPU you need.  Being able to upgrade as you go is a definite advantage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26668" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8416" RevisionGUID="98e7b741-f91a-424b-ad14-f4f1c1c5c1a6" CreationDate="2017-11-20T03:42:01.910" UserId="1921" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="The most important difference is desktops are upgrade able and 99% of laptops are not.  Need a faster GPU make sure your power supply can handle it, your case can fit it, and then buy any GPU upgrade.  Just buy a desktop(Full Tower) than can fit a 12&quot; long video card(and standard power supply 750w ) and you can plug anything into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A laptop has a fixed heat and power budget, and even if you could swap out the GPU you the extra heat and electrical current could burn out circuits.  I have seen a few laptops with swap-able graphics, but at prices over $4000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D work requires a higher end GPU, and the bigger the project the more GPU you need.  Being able to upgrade as you go is a definite advantage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8416" RevisionGUID="3ce36a82-2d75-47af-99ea-051610d0dc88" CreationDate="2017-11-20T03:53:44.910" UserId="1921" Comment="added 194 characters in body" Text="The most important difference is desktops are upgrade able and 99% of laptops are not.  Need a faster GPU make sure your power supply can handle it, your case can fit it, and then buy any GPU upgrade.  Just buy a desktop(Full Tower) than can fit a 12&quot; long video card(and standard power supply 750w ) and you can plug anything into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A laptop has a fixed heat and power budget, and even if you could swap out the GPU you the extra heat and electrical current could burn out circuits.  I have seen a few laptops with swap-able graphics, but at prices over $4000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D work requires a higher end GPU, and the bigger the project the more GPU you need.  Being able to upgrade as you go is a definite advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883152294&#xD;&#xA;Get a 17&quot; screen to go with it.  However, you have a different currency, and etc so I have no idea what your price would be." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8416" RevisionGUID="0b14d626-da8e-42a1-8bc0-385a0e530866" CreationDate="2017-11-20T04:11:30.150" UserId="1921" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="The biggest advantage for a laptop is portability, other than that it has no major upsides especially in the 3D world, and at your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important difference is desktops are upgrade able and 99% of laptops are not.  Need a faster GPU make sure your power supply can handle it, your case can fit it, and then buy any GPU upgrade.  Just buy a desktop(Full Tower) than can fit a 12&quot; long video card(and standard power supply 750w ) and you can plug anything into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A laptop has a fixed heat and power budget, and even if you could swap out the GPU you the extra heat and electrical current could burn out circuits.  I have seen a few laptops with swap-able graphics, but at prices over $4000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3D work requires a higher end GPU, and the bigger the project the more GPU you need.  Being able to upgrade as you go is a definite advantage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883152294&#xD;&#xA;Get a 17&quot; screen to go with it.  However, you have a different currency, and etc so I have no idea what your price would be." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26675" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8412" RevisionGUID="1241c9de-e805-4117-8d9d-7cc22dce9c64" CreationDate="2017-11-20T15:40:19.703" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8419" RevisionGUID="5d8dfb16-7a02-4b06-9e1f-9d563cdb0069" CreationDate="2017-11-20T18:49:19.010" UserId="7334" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to add a Bluetooth module to an Arduino project that I'm working on that will take outdoor temperature measurements. I plan to have several measurement stations over distances of several 10s of metres which ultimately have to communicate wirelessly with a &quot;master&quot; station that logs the measurements from all the satellite stations. For reasons of energy economy, Bluetooth is the way to go, but because of the distances involved, it has to be BT Category 1 (100 mW, transmission up to 100 m). Does anyone know of such a module?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help that you can provide.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26681" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8419" RevisionGUID="5d8dfb16-7a02-4b06-9e1f-9d563cdb0069" CreationDate="2017-11-20T18:49:19.010" UserId="7334" Text="Arduino compatible Bluetooth Cat. 1 module" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26682" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8419" RevisionGUID="5d8dfb16-7a02-4b06-9e1f-9d563cdb0069" CreationDate="2017-11-20T18:49:19.010" UserId="7334" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8421" RevisionGUID="33eea89f-60cc-492a-a6d6-70362a551770" CreationDate="2017-11-20T21:45:57.403" UserId="241" Text="It sounds like the best drive for your circumstances is a [3TB Western Digital Green][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, I'd never recommend a WD Green because of severe performance issues (the firmware prioritizes power savings over speed of access).  However, since you're using the drive for backups rather than as your main drive, the delays probably won't be an issue.  Reliability-wise, the WD Green uses the same hardware as the rest of Western Digital's drives.  It's only the firmware that differs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drive is $88 from Newegg, which should translate into a UK price within your £50 budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAEE4TM3941" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26689" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="78d71f5b-4bb8-447d-ba33-2083999a7ff5" CreationDate="2017-11-21T01:15:38.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8422" RevisionGUID="53a76f80-06bf-4a31-af86-f3fa74e3e2ba" CreationDate="2017-11-21T03:42:31.517" UserId="5001" Text="Okay so I just received the dreaded single pixel line down the center of my main TV and decided it was time to buy a new one.  I am now overwhelmed confused and ready to start reading more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a TV with the following qualifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Basic set of ports such as HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - 65-75&quot; in size&#xD;&#xA; - Good for all around use TV / Movies no gaming or PC Use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: Open - I can afford anything up to say $4000 but would like to spend as little as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Smart / Internet Connected: Optional but if it is internet connected I would like for it to be wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the above covers just about every option.  Where I need some help with recommendations is all the terminology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ranges of these TVs start at about $850 for a known brand but goes all the way up to $5000 +&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is UHD and HDR and QLED and OLED and what seems like a million others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I be focused on and does anyone have any good recommendations for a good all around general use TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8422" RevisionGUID="53a76f80-06bf-4a31-af86-f3fa74e3e2ba" CreationDate="2017-11-21T03:42:31.517" UserId="5001" Text="UHD vs HDR vs QLED vs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8422" RevisionGUID="53a76f80-06bf-4a31-af86-f3fa74e3e2ba" CreationDate="2017-11-21T03:42:31.517" UserId="5001" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;led&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26693" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="0bd5d8f4-3e1b-4a13-bc73-8779e775651a" CreationDate="2017-11-21T11:18:21.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8426" RevisionGUID="0e4e9e56-ca95-4284-be49-e41a5e5a54a5" CreationDate="2017-11-22T04:17:24.680" UserId="5440" Text="You mentioned ZenBooks. There is a SKU with an 8th gen i5 and an anti-glare screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[ASUS ZenBook UX330UA-AH55][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also the Dell XPS 13 9360 has such a configuration option. See here http://www.microcenter.com/product/487760/xps_13_9360_133_laptop_computer_-_silver. As well as the Lenovo 720 https://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/yoga/700-series/Yoga-720-13/p/88YG7000827&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something not from the big brands is the [Sager NP3132][2], pretty expansive but a lot of configuration options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Slim-13-3-inch-Fingerprint-Anti-Glare-UX330UA-AH55/dp/B075N1YHVK//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=3f70ce8ce32d361d7553c8b9a4fd9d00&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP3132.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26711" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8258" RevisionGUID="1fa49d17-c572-413f-a29a-f6edbb3940d5" CreationDate="2017-11-22T13:44:06.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26712" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="653242d1-c8f3-4ec1-8d14-8a65e0d6c817" CreationDate="2017-11-22T14:44:06.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="bf8dddcf-1d7f-4398-8b37-4ff0e3e07fd3" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:20:44.783" UserId="7346" Text="So I've been looking for a long time and I can't seem to find a keyboard that matches what I want. Maybe I'm in the huge minority or something, but I feel like someone must want this like I do....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways I'm looking for a keyboard that fits the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; - Full Size (with Num Pad)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably it would also have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Massive battery (but this is just a plus I can deal with recharging the battery every week if I have to I just want the above specs)&#xD;&#xA; - Fair amount of media controls and other handy bits and bobs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use a [Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard][1]. I really do like it for a number of reasons, but it's not backlit and it's not wireless. I've seen a lot of keyboards that are nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be honest it doesn't have to be entirely wireless it could be powered and plugged into the wall all the time... I just don't want to have to unplug and replug it into my laptop all the time. And it can weigh a ton... I don't plan on moving it. It's just so that when I'm at my workstation I can set down my laptop and be good to go. If I could get a laptop with wireless charging I'd do that too so that way I just set it down open it up and it automatically is connected to everything but my extra monitors... I don't think I've seen any wireless screen connections that work fast enough to replace those cables yet... but I really think there must be one wireless keyboard that has these specs I just don't know where to look anymore so I thought I'd try the stack exchange community. I've tried a bunch of online exclusive places like Amazon, NewEgg, etc. and all the big chain places like Fry's and Best Buy. But I haven't seen one... and I'm not saying that I haven't seen some super expensive crazy custom one, or some questionable brand no one has heard of. I'm saying I haven't found a single one at all that has these specs... I'm just astounded at the amount of options out there and none of them have this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26717" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="bf8dddcf-1d7f-4398-8b37-4ff0e3e07fd3" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:20:44.783" UserId="7346" Text="Why are there no backlit ergonomic wireless keyboards?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26718" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="bf8dddcf-1d7f-4398-8b37-4ff0e3e07fd3" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:20:44.783" UserId="7346" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8430" RevisionGUID="4a9917d4-4ead-40f4-b7b1-82b19a6a74cc" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:33:06.170" UserId="7347" Text="I'm out of space on my Mac so I've been planning to buy an SSD and install some programs there. I know that USB 2.0 has a low bandwidth so there is no point to use SSD through USB 2.0. The question is how do I connect an external SSD drive to my MacBook Pro 2014 that doesn't have Thunderbolt 3 jacks, hence I can't connect USB 3 cord to it. There are some adapters from USB 3 to Thunderbolt 2 that apparently cost about $100-150 so I would avoid buying them if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26720" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8430" RevisionGUID="4a9917d4-4ead-40f4-b7b1-82b19a6a74cc" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:33:06.170" UserId="7347" Text="How to connect external SSD to Mac so it doesn't lose speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26721" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8430" RevisionGUID="4a9917d4-4ead-40f4-b7b1-82b19a6a74cc" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:33:06.170" UserId="7347" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26730" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="78105bcb-355c-4490-9e4f-18592605bf77" CreationDate="2017-11-22T21:47:10.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26731" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="8c3aae05-3bfb-45af-857e-95c50dcf8f57" CreationDate="2017-11-22T22:47:12.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26732" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="1675a9f8-fce4-4812-b615-cafc58b5bfb6" CreationDate="2017-11-23T00:47:15.937" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8433" RevisionGUID="f059414f-f676-4bdc-a9d6-2e7926b9a90f" CreationDate="2017-11-23T02:52:34.147" UserId="7350" Text="I would recommend buying an express card with the esata port. This will allow for much higher data transfer speed over your FireWire or usb options.  Newer esata runs at speeds of around 6gb/s so you will probably get the speeds you need with that. You can find express cards with the esata option for around $20-$30. If your looking for speeds in excess of 6gb you will need to upgrade to use usb 3.1." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="7195ecb2-d1a2-41d9-8e69-315e6f05fb69" CreationDate="2017-11-23T07:51:39.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="358c219e-920a-4ab3-91d3-cf47feb3eb7f" CreationDate="2017-11-23T17:22:58.100" UserId="7352" Text="I have an Asus A52j (K52JK). The laptop has been with me for around 7 years. It is i5. Now I need to get a new one. I am looking for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good CPU (i7 or better)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Full Keyboard (with the right keybad)&#xD;&#xA; 3. More than 17&quot; display (LED could be better) &#xD;&#xA; 4. Good number of USB plugs/connection&#xD;&#xA; 5. RAM at lease 8GB&#xD;&#xA; 6. 2TB SSHD or regular provided that I can upgrade to SSD when their price go down.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Graphic RAM at lease 4GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please recommend a good one for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26743" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="358c219e-920a-4ab3-91d3-cf47feb3eb7f" CreationDate="2017-11-23T17:22:58.100" UserId="7352" Text="New Laptop with good specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26744" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="358c219e-920a-4ab3-91d3-cf47feb3eb7f" CreationDate="2017-11-23T17:22:58.100" UserId="7352" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26745" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="6867ba39-8588-4cb0-8317-7aa57be2d0e6" CreationDate="2017-11-23T17:57:34.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26746" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="e97e4864-9231-41db-bbc4-eaaef81cf47a" CreationDate="2017-11-23T23:59:00.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8438" RevisionGUID="42ca24ba-2da9-4dc2-97c2-eda7d7c7c914" CreationDate="2017-11-24T01:28:42.537" UserId="7353" Text="Given that I suspect my PC to have a suicidal behavior, I'm looking for a RAID HDD to save my data safely. I have very old documents that I don't wanna lose.&#xD;&#xA;What are the best solutions for this? Buy 2 HDD and connect them with a dock? A NAS?&#xD;&#xA;I want it to be at least as fast as a normal HDD (so SATA cable, I think), and not too expensive if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26749" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8438" RevisionGUID="42ca24ba-2da9-4dc2-97c2-eda7d7c7c914" CreationDate="2017-11-24T01:28:42.537" UserId="7353" Text="Fast and cheap RAID HDD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26750" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8438" RevisionGUID="42ca24ba-2da9-4dc2-97c2-eda7d7c7c914" CreationDate="2017-11-24T01:28:42.537" UserId="7353" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="6d1a1b2a-5866-4a9f-9947-932c828b9b71" CreationDate="2017-11-24T08:28:02.110" UserId="6092" Text="I saw a laptop with this processor and i will program in java, sql, php, etc. Perhaps for gimp or photoshop. Is enough for this? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="6d1a1b2a-5866-4a9f-9947-932c828b9b71" CreationDate="2017-11-24T08:28:02.110" UserId="6092" Text="Is the Celeron N3060 enough for programing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="6d1a1b2a-5866-4a9f-9947-932c828b9b71" CreationDate="2017-11-24T08:28:02.110" UserId="6092" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="db2a1c6f-737c-4fdb-bd08-a494b7a2544b" CreationDate="2017-11-24T12:50:28.203" UserId="203" Comment="Added requirements and changed from &quot;compatibility&quot; to &quot;hardware recommendation&quot; type question" Text="I need a laptop for entry level programming (small projects) in Java, SQL, PHP and various other languages, as well as various image editing tasks with photos smaller than 12 MP. I've done some initial research, and [this laptop](https://www.amazon.es/Lenovo-Ideapad-110-15-Portátil-Operativo/dp/B071FSGY4J/), with a Celeron N3060, 4 GB of RAM and 500 GB SSD seemes to be the best I could afford with my budget of €&amp;thinsp;300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this sufficient for the uses mentioned above, and is there better hardware that I could get for around this price?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26764" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="db2a1c6f-737c-4fdb-bd08-a494b7a2544b" CreationDate="2017-11-24T12:50:28.203" UserId="203" Comment="Added requirements and changed from &quot;compatibility&quot; to &quot;hardware recommendation&quot; type question" Text="Budget Programming and Image Editing laptop under 300 Euros (Spain)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26765" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="db2a1c6f-737c-4fdb-bd08-a494b7a2544b" CreationDate="2017-11-24T12:50:28.203" UserId="203" Comment="Added requirements and changed from &quot;compatibility&quot; to &quot;hardware recommendation&quot; type question" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="47e09e08-4e2c-4fd8-bb5e-6f8dea982ceb" CreationDate="2017-11-24T14:20:04.947" UserId="7356" Text="I'm searching for a notebook to code on and make music. I really like the Lenovo X1 carbon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This notebook is a bit expensive without blackfriday ;) so maybe there is a similar one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 13 - 15 Inch    &#xD;&#xA;- SSD&#xD;&#xA;- lightweight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a developer, so I should be able to build my vs solutions and run node server.&#xD;&#xA;I'm also a music producer, i work with fl studio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a desktop at home with a 24 inch screen, so i dont need a big screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26767" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="47e09e08-4e2c-4fd8-bb5e-6f8dea982ceb" CreationDate="2017-11-24T14:20:04.947" UserId="7356" Text="Recommended notebook for coding and music production" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26768" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="47e09e08-4e2c-4fd8-bb5e-6f8dea982ceb" CreationDate="2017-11-24T14:20:04.947" UserId="7356" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8438" RevisionGUID="65fdc6a6-2e52-4e6f-bc2b-94860800f7cb" CreationDate="2017-11-24T15:54:13.670" UserId="7353" Comment="added 203 characters in body" Text="Given that I suspect my PC to have a suicidal behavior, I'm looking for a RAID HDD to save my data safely. I have very old documents that I don't wanna lose.&#xD;&#xA;What are the best solutions for this? Buy 2 HDD and connect them with a dock? A NAS?&#xD;&#xA;I want it to be at least as fast as a normal HDD (so SATA cable, I think), and not too expensive if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I want this to cost if possible, less than 200€, and I want at least 1TB of data. I want it to use with my PC (desktop). I want to store various documents like pictures, videos, work files, ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26770" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="07240249-98bf-49be-8d78-849c1edcf6cc" CreationDate="2017-11-24T16:10:07.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8443" RevisionGUID="3f4978ad-7f05-49ab-bac1-dda602174896" CreationDate="2017-11-24T17:23:00.190" UserDisplayName="user7357" Text="I am in the process of choosing the parts for my first build. I chose the AMD Ryzen 5 1600 and decided that b530 motherboard would be the best option for me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not going overboard for this build. This is primarily for casual gaming with either Gtx 1050 Ti or Gtx 1060 3GB, depending upon how much money I have left after finalizing the other parts. And, I will also be watching movies and listening to music a lot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though not high-end, my 2.1 Phillips speakers are pretty decent (mine is a small-medium sized room). And I prefer high quality media files, especially my music. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, this brings us to the question - which b350 motherboard has good on-board sound? I am being extra careful because, I do not want to add a sound card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I am making sure that the parts I choose are future-proof to some extend. So far, I have read good comments about Asrock AB350 Pro 4 and a couple of Msi motherboards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am new to all of this and therefore, I have been spending a lot of time in reading and researching about every single part. I am not complaining, I actually love doing this. I just want this build to be really good, so please share your thoughts and opinions. Thank you. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8443" RevisionGUID="3f4978ad-7f05-49ab-bac1-dda602174896" CreationDate="2017-11-24T17:23:00.190" UserDisplayName="user7357" Text="Please suggest a b350 motherboard with good on-board sound" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8443" RevisionGUID="3f4978ad-7f05-49ab-bac1-dda602174896" CreationDate="2017-11-24T17:23:00.190" UserDisplayName="user7357" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26774" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="c939040c-32a2-4003-84e3-c1acf16a5e18" CreationDate="2017-11-24T19:10:19.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26775" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8287" RevisionGUID="fa31bf68-3205-4967-8a09-d32db90d9803" CreationDate="2017-11-24T20:37:05.930" UserId="7192" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a software programmable DSP embedded platform that is relatively cheap, and can be used for capturing and driving speakers at least on the 60-70 kHz frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8444" RevisionGUID="217b47d1-18fc-4c76-b2f5-54a4cacf0e0b" CreationDate="2017-11-25T00:52:44.423" UserId="203" Text="I recommend the Thinkpad X230, avalible on [Amazon](https://www.amazon.es/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X230-i5-Reacondicionado-Certificado/dp/B01HOT7RTQ/) refurbished for €&amp;thinsp;273.71. It has an i5 3320M, 8 GB of RAM and 320 GB of hard disk space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the N3060 is a relatively recent processor with a respectable boost clock speed, it is based off the *Braswell* architecture, part of Intel's low power *Atom* designs. That means despite the apparently high clock speed, the performance of the CPU is quite low, perhaps achieving half to a quarter of the performance of even the older quad cores, such as the i5 3320M. While it is a snappy processor for things like light web browsing, it will definitely feel the strain and start to lag once you start editing photos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 8 GB of RAM is another significant advantage, even on Linux, and especially if you plan to use the more resource intensive Windows (to which it comes with a licence for) at all. With 4 GB of RAM, basic multitasking can be difficult, and as a beginner programmer myself, I can't tell you how helpful it is to have a few tabs of Stackoverflow or MDN open in the background. While 4 GB might be sufficient if you shepherd your RAM carefully, many times, your OS will start to venture into swap, again increasing lagginess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, the ThinkPads generally have better build quality than the IdeaPads, as they are the premium lineup. The X series especially, along with the T and W series, are the highest quality, professional grade laptops. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26781" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="fbd7375f-00d0-4680-ba58-8f0a0a313979" CreationDate="2017-11-25T08:13:37.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="0c510bdf-9c1d-4641-8661-a714413f5c5c" CreationDate="2017-11-25T11:19:08.473" UserId="7358" Text="I currently have two monitors, but I want one more. The width of my computer table is however full, so I thought I would add one **above** my existing monitors. &#xA;The backs of the monitors are close to a wall, so I thought of some kind of wall-rig. Do these exist and what are they called?&#xA;Alternatively I would also be very happy with some kind of tripod that will sustain the monitor. Do these exist and what are they called?&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26783" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="0c510bdf-9c1d-4641-8661-a714413f5c5c" CreationDate="2017-11-25T11:19:08.473" UserId="7358" Text="Monitor above monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26784" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="0c510bdf-9c1d-4641-8661-a714413f5c5c" CreationDate="2017-11-25T11:19:08.473" UserId="7358" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26785" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="004b7289-8ee3-461d-9dc0-03a8262c7320" CreationDate="2017-11-25T13:13:43.893" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8446" RevisionGUID="371f2f47-ed92-41fb-a6e6-24c83fe8ee64" CreationDate="2017-11-25T14:15:56.310" UserId="7125" Text="Many monitors have VESA type mounting brackets which allows the use of a standard VESA holder. There are a wide variety of these from wall mount to rack mount to stands which can be attached to a table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing you need to determine is whether your monitors have a VESA mounting bracket or not. Not all monitors do. It sounds like you are planning to buy an additional monitor so one of the requirements should be that the monitor has a VESA bracket on its back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The actual mounting gear will depend on whether the monitor has a VESA standard mounting bracket and the weight and size of the display. You will also need to consider how to route the cabling for power and the display signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance see the results from this Google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=vesa+wall+mount&amp;rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS755US755&amp;oq=vesa+wall+mount&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3149j0j8&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26790" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8448" RevisionGUID="eab11c9f-17e0-43bf-a18b-af7dfa0cb94c" CreationDate="2017-11-25T19:04:20.367" UserId="7361" Text="You didn’t specify if you planned to buy a standard ATX motherboard or a smaller one (micro-ATX, mini-ITX)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The renowned French tech site Hardware.fr provided a spreadsheet with all AM4 motherboards characteristics. It includes the audio chipset reference. URL is https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10dvMrPxjWqo5E3VO9djvjC5DU4vXXVtlXRoZsJBesc0/htmlview&#xD;&#xA;The higher the number after &quot;Realtek AlC&quot; is, the better the chipset is supposed to be (see Realtek website for tech specs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I don’t know if higher-end Realtek ALC chipsets will make a difference in your audio setup. When I bought myself a Ryzen platform I knew I needed a SPDIF optical output, and I wondered if such an option means the manufacturer taked extra care on the audio part. Last but not least, marketing says that insulating the audio area from the other  motherboard component provides better audio quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26791" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="a3c3bb88-d9a7-443a-90fa-4e0b5eb72a1d" CreationDate="2017-11-25T19:15:14.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="0ba40561-273f-4272-9a0e-b94c450e0b21" CreationDate="2017-11-27T12:27:35.923" UserId="7125" Comment="updated post from comments to flesh out the actual software being used." Text="I'm searching for a notebook to code on and make music. I really like the Lenovo X1 carbon however it is a bit expensive without a Blackfriday sale ;) so maybe there is a similar one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 13 - 15 Inch    &#xD;&#xA;- SSD&#xD;&#xA;- lightweight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a developer, so I should be able to build my Visual Studio solutions and run node server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also a music producer working with FL Studio software from Image-Line. FL Studio does require &quot;full SSE2 support&quot; [What are the system requirements of FL (and does it run on a Mac)?](https://support.image-line.com/knowledgebase/base.php?ans=82) as well as [What computer should I get for music creation?](http://support.image-line.com/knowledgebase/base.php?id=55&amp;ans=214).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a desktop at home with a 24 inch screen, so I don't need a big screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26794" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="0ba40561-273f-4272-9a0e-b94c450e0b21" CreationDate="2017-11-27T12:27:35.923" Comment="Proposed by 7125 approved by 7356 edit id of 652" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26795" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="246908e2-62f7-49d4-8cbc-bb4e8c5dd68f" CreationDate="2017-11-27T13:25:41.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26796" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="74d2e97d-e0fa-4f15-88d1-457e3d01d469" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:27:39.743" UserId="7125" Comment="retouched the title and a bit of reformatting of the posting." Text="I currently have two monitors, but I want one more. The width of my computer table is however full, so I thought I would add one **above** my existing monitors. &#xD;&#xA;The backs of the monitors are close to a wall, so I thought of some kind of wall-rig. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do these exist and what are they called?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively I would also be very happy with some kind of tripod that will sustain the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do these exist and what are they called?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26797" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="74d2e97d-e0fa-4f15-88d1-457e3d01d469" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:27:39.743" UserId="7125" Comment="retouched the title and a bit of reformatting of the posting." Text="mounting options for mounting a monitor or display above monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26798" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="74d2e97d-e0fa-4f15-88d1-457e3d01d469" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:27:39.743" Comment="Proposed by 7125 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 651" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26799" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="4d2ff497-3673-44d5-8fcf-cac05597675e" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:27:39.743" UserId="60" Comment="Retouched the title and a bit of reformatting of the post." Text="I currently have two monitors, but I want one more. The width of my computer table is however full, so I thought I would add one **above** my existing monitors. The backs of the monitors are close to a wall, so I thought of some kind of wall-rig. Alternatively I would also be very happy with some kind of tripod that will sustain the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy that accomplishes my goal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26800" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8445" RevisionGUID="4d2ff497-3673-44d5-8fcf-cac05597675e" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:27:39.743" UserId="60" Comment="Retouched the title and a bit of reformatting of the post." Text="Mounting options for mounting a monitor or display above other monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8450" RevisionGUID="7ad21075-dff3-4c72-8020-e7534f629627" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:34:19.297" UserId="1977" Text="What is the best choice for communication system? I work in a company of 40 people and every one has a cordless-telephone and only a few of desktop phones we have a auto-responder to forward calls to the right extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like to switch our old analogic system to a IP-Voip system and I would like to find something with good software integration with other tools like MS Outlook/Exchange and Skype-for-Buiness.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26802" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8450" RevisionGUID="7ad21075-dff3-4c72-8020-e7534f629627" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:34:19.297" UserId="1977" Text="Telephony/Communication (PBX) hardware for small company" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26803" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8450" RevisionGUID="7ad21075-dff3-4c72-8020-e7534f629627" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:34:19.297" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;voip&gt;&lt;telephony&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8450" RevisionGUID="083a9e48-f309-4ba8-b238-3f5ad4371f73" CreationDate="2017-11-27T17:01:15.203" UserId="1977" Comment="added 480 characters in body" Text="What is the best choice for communication system? I work in a company of 40 people and every one has a cordless-telephone and only a few of desktop phones we have a auto-responder to forward calls to the right extension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like to switch our old analogic system to a IP-Voip system and I would like to find something with good software integration with other tools like MS Outlook/Exchange and Skype-for-Buiness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to switch all my DECT cordless to wifi devices so I can use only one type of antennas. Now I'm using Ubiquity Unifi antennas for wifi and I don't know if these are suitable for Voip-roaming.&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget but considering the high number of cordless it is important to have a low-budget options for cordless.&#xD;&#xA;We have some meeting room and I want to add some polycom devices specific for &#xD;&#xA;remote meeting, optionally with video connection (Skype?)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8451" RevisionGUID="423d5293-a58c-4b4a-931b-815e4beaffab" CreationDate="2017-11-27T20:02:10.850" UserId="6523" Text="I had determined that the Samsung HM1000 was causing BSOD crashes about once per week, but after resetting the PC (for other reasons), it hasn't caused a crash once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, at the moment, I declare the **Samsung HM1000** as the only headset I've found that works well with Windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26810" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7818" RevisionGUID="a77c05d8-8712-491e-85fe-1538b067533c" CreationDate="2017-11-27T20:03:15.407" UserId="6523" Comment="Removed test result that I seem to have subsequently invalidated" Text="I have been on something of a quest for something which I am finding to be a very elusive piece of equipment: a Bluetooth headset that works well with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Windows 10 PC has an onboard Bluetooth module that uses drivers from Windows Update. Windows 7 did not have these drivers, so while running Windows 7, I had a whole different set of issues with external drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What does *work well* mean?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Pairs to the computer as an audio and recording device (i.e. both audio input and output; usually will say something like &quot;Connected to voice&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Maintains connection even while charging&#xD;&#xA; - Charges via MicroUSB&#xD;&#xA; - Does not require any drivers outside of Windows Update to function properly (i.e. meet the rest of these conditions)&#xD;&#xA; - Does not cause Audio service crashes or system crashes&#xD;&#xA;   - You would be surprised how many headsets this requirement has disqualified; I find that trying to make a call via Google Hangouts, using the Firefox plugin (on Firefox ESR) causes problems like this for no small number of headsets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, no headset manufacturer advertises anything about these features, except occasionally the charging interface, so essentially, I have to purchase a batch of headsets, and then return them all because they all fail at least one of these conditions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some headsets I've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at connecting as voice device:&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics M95&#xD;&#xA; - Failed at maintaining connections while charging (I'm guessing that if a particular manufacturer has this problem, it will have this problem for every one of its headsets):&#xD;&#xA;   - Motorola Boom2&#xD;&#xA;   - Jabra Stealth&#xD;&#xA;   - Jabra Mini&#xD;&#xA;   - Quikcell Mod B&#xD;&#xA;   - MPow Shield&#xD;&#xA;   - Sony Mono BT Headset (I don't know if it had a more descriptive name)&#xD;&#xA; - Used proprietary charger&#xD;&#xA;   - Jawbone&#xD;&#xA;   - LifeCharge B30&#xD;&#xA; - Crashed some aspect of PC&#xD;&#xA;   - Plantronics Explorer 500&#xD;&#xA;     - Would crash the audio service whenever I used Google Hangouts, which would lead to no audio until I restarted and would cause a system crash on shutdown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to target headsets $50 or under, and I would think that even a cheap headset could satisfy these requirements, but if none exist at that price point, I would want to know if any Bluetooth headset works properly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8452" RevisionGUID="82ea80fe-df62-4253-a4c1-c8a7b0e1cbbb" CreationDate="2017-11-28T03:56:25.610" UserId="7375" Text="I am getting a Nintendo Switch charging dock which comes with one USB type c male port to charge a controller, but I have 2 controllers and I'm looking for a USB female to male Y-splitter or anything with two USB type c male outputs to charge, the best would be a hard block type thing to support the controllers but anything will do. Lastly if anyone has a cable management idea for this, If I find a Y splitter to make it a real charging dock, holds the cables in place" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26812" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8452" RevisionGUID="82ea80fe-df62-4253-a4c1-c8a7b0e1cbbb" CreationDate="2017-11-28T03:56:25.610" UserId="7375" Text="Usb type c Splitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26813" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8452" RevisionGUID="82ea80fe-df62-4253-a4c1-c8a7b0e1cbbb" CreationDate="2017-11-28T03:56:25.610" UserId="7375" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26814" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="545285e0-77fb-4d1e-a563-a61560f4e23c" CreationDate="2017-11-28T04:47:25.257" UserId="7346" Comment="More positively phrased question" Text="So I've been looking for a long time and I can't seem to find a keyboard that matches what I want. Maybe I'm in the huge minority or something, but I feel like someone must want this like I do....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways I'm looking for a keyboard that fits the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; - Full Size (with Num Pad)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use a [Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard][1]. I really do like it for a number of reasons, but it's not backlit and it's not wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just so that when I'm at my workstation I can set down my laptop and be good to go. I've tried a bunch of online exclusive places like Amazon, NewEgg, etc. and all the big chain places like Fry's and Best Buy. But I haven't seen one... and I'm not saying that I haven't seen some super expensive crazy custom one, or some questionable brand no one has heard of. I'm saying I haven't found a single one at all that has these specs...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26815" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="545285e0-77fb-4d1e-a563-a61560f4e23c" CreationDate="2017-11-28T04:47:25.257" UserId="7346" Comment="More positively phrased question" Text="What backlit ergonomic wireless keyboards options are out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8454" RevisionGUID="38cf68c3-8869-4db5-9361-9f0ddf69f711" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:22:54.190" UserId="4065" Text="I'm looking at raw memory speed in a setup where RAM bandwidth is important. Right now the servers are using Xeon E5 16xx v3's and v4's with about 96 - 160 GB of ECC RDIMM 2133/2400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of people ask online about the difference between ECC and Registered RAM, and get told they are completely separate things, which is correct. In this case, unbuffered ECC may be better than registered ECC, because I don't need registration or buffering really, the amounts of RAM aren't large enough to justify it, and the speed will benefit from avoiding it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my usual motherboard preference, SuperMicro X10 range, state under RAM, that it runs with RDIMM or LRDIMM, **not** UDIMM (or UDIMM with ECC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do any server board manufacturers make similar/better/good quality boards (generally viewed as comparable to Supermicro or better), that accept up to 8 slots of _unbuffered_ (UDIMM) ECC? If so, could I have some recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usual motherboard spec is something like the Supermicro X10SRi-F: Intel based, 2011-3 single CPU, 8 slots RAM, IPMI, at least 1 PCIe-16 and space for 3 or 4 PCIe-8's, can handle Xeon v3/v4.  Ideally allows fully loaded RAM at 2400 not just 2133 and has onboard vga (aspeed etc) but I can always add a cheap video card if not.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26822" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8454" RevisionGUID="38cf68c3-8869-4db5-9361-9f0ddf69f711" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:22:54.190" UserId="4065" Text="Xeon 2011-3 motherboards that support *unbuffered* (non-registered) ECC RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26823" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8454" RevisionGUID="38cf68c3-8869-4db5-9361-9f0ddf69f711" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:22:54.190" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8454" RevisionGUID="3d848205-e96a-4fa4-9c09-e97a87ef50dd" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:28:25.100" UserId="4065" Comment="added 83 characters in body" Text="I'm looking at raw memory speed in a setup where RAM bandwidth is important. Right now the servers are using Xeon E5 16xx v3's and v4's with about 96 - 160 GB of ECC RDIMM 2133/2400.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of people ask online about the difference between ECC and Registered RAM, and get told they are completely separate things - I understand the difference and know which RAM I'm asking about :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this case, unbuffered ECC (UDIMMs) may be **better** than registered ECC (RDIMMs/LRDIMMs), because I don't need registration or buffering really, the amounts of RAM aren't large enough to justify it, and the speed will benefit from avoiding it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But my usual motherboard preference, SuperMicro X10 range, state under RAM, that it runs with RDIMM or LRDIMM, **not** UDIMM (or UDIMM with ECC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do any server board manufacturers make similar/better/good quality boards (generally viewed as comparable to Supermicro or better), that accept up to 8 slots of _unbuffered_ (UDIMM) ECC? If so, could I have some recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usual motherboard spec is something like the Supermicro X10SRi-F: Intel based, 2011-3 single CPU, 8 slots RAM, IPMI, at least 1 PCIe-16 and space for 3 or 4 PCIe-8's, can handle Xeon v3/v4.  Ideally allows fully loaded RAM at 2400 not just 2133 and has onboard vga (aspeed etc) but I can always add a cheap video card if not.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8455" RevisionGUID="8a82303c-f4bb-4d25-bd7b-45e27e7d5dc8" CreationDate="2017-11-28T19:02:12.127" UserId="4786" Text="I'm doing a cost analysis for a friend who wants a &quot;budget&quot; gaming system that run most modern titles on medium to ultra settings with decent fps, like ETS2, GTA5 and Fallout4. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, he is dead set on getting 2 GTX 960 4GBs and running them in SLI, which is no problem. The problem I face is that I cannot find a CPU that will work with the SLI configuration whilst minimizing GPU bottlenecking as much as possible. I have the following criteria in place --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU must have 4 or more cores&#xD;&#xA; 2. CPU can be either AMD or Intel (not really picky here)&#xD;&#xA; 3. CPU must have a base clock greater than 3.2GHz&#xD;&#xA; 4. CPU doesn't have to be brand new, looking to spend max $100 on the CPU itself&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not decided on the motherboard as yet, as I do not have the CPU. Once I have the CPU, then I can move forward from here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26826" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8455" RevisionGUID="8a82303c-f4bb-4d25-bd7b-45e27e7d5dc8" CreationDate="2017-11-28T19:02:12.127" UserId="4786" Text="Best CPU Generation to work with 2 GTX 960 4GB in SLI?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26827" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8455" RevisionGUID="8a82303c-f4bb-4d25-bd7b-45e27e7d5dc8" CreationDate="2017-11-28T19:02:12.127" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8456" RevisionGUID="32b673a0-c208-418a-86be-a26db24dec5a" CreationDate="2017-11-29T02:17:33.490" UserId="241" Text="It's not a board from a traditional server-focused manufacturer, but the [Asus X99-WS/IPMI][1] appears to meet your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Single LGA 2011v3 socket supporting Xeon E5-16xx CPUs (you may need a BIOS update before you can boot from a Xeon v4, though).&#xD;&#xA;* 8 RAM slots supporting up to 128 GB of unbuffered DDR4 2133 ECC RAM (and since Asus is a gaming-focused company, you can probably use DDR4 2400 ECC, even if it's not officially supported).&#xD;&#xA;* Five PCIe mechanically x16 slots with a mix of x8 and x16 electrical connections.&#xD;&#xA;* IPMI 2.0 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll need that cheap video card, though, as it doesn't have onboard graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/X99WSIPMI/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8459" RevisionGUID="298b6215-12f5-4481-8b8f-6e9d0b65b30d" CreationDate="2017-11-29T14:07:49.443" UserId="1974" Text="I'd like to purchase several inexpensive USB-Speaker-Microphone-Combo-Devices for all the computers at our work place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Single Speaker - The device should have only one speaker that plays&#xD;&#xA;   both right and left channels (not two speakers). It can have two speakers as long as they are built into one housing.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Small - Must not take up much space (would like it to sit at the base&#xD;&#xA;   of the computer's monitor for example)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in sound card - Should not require the computer to have its own&#xD;&#xA;   sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB Powered - Must get is power from USB exclusively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Built-in microphone - Would like users to be able to have VOIP calls &#xD;&#xA;   or audio chats via Google Voice or any other program that simply   &#xD;&#xA;   needs a speaker and microphone to function.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8459" RevisionGUID="298b6215-12f5-4481-8b8f-6e9d0b65b30d" CreationDate="2017-11-29T14:07:49.443" UserId="1974" Text="Single USB Speaker with Built-in Sound Card and Microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8459" RevisionGUID="298b6215-12f5-4481-8b8f-6e9d0b65b30d" CreationDate="2017-11-29T14:07:49.443" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8461" RevisionGUID="11b23176-85d9-4a98-90ce-1c618355b00f" CreationDate="2017-11-29T17:24:59.643" UserId="7399" Text="HIS 5450 Silence 512MB DDR3 PCI DVI/HDMI/VGA,  Make sure you get the PCI version because the also make a PCI-e version.&#xD;&#xA;But good luck finding one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26843" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="e993d5aa-fc5a-4ff7-aa4c-1117680a323b" CreationDate="2017-11-29T17:54:10.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26845" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="7de70e1b-6ac0-45f5-a2ce-04bb39780422" CreationDate="2017-11-29T20:54:13.037" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8429" RevisionGUID="19c91246-2bb6-47c8-94d3-90f0123ae6be" CreationDate="2017-11-29T23:12:11.283" UserId="7346" Comment="Separate two technically distinct specifications" Text="So I've been looking for a long time and I can't seem to find a keyboard that matches what I want. Maybe I'm in the huge minority or something, but I feel like someone must want this like I do....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways I'm looking for a keyboard that fits the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless&#xD;&#xA; - Backlit&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; - Full Size&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad (Bonus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use a [Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard][1]. I really do like it for a number of reasons, but it's not backlit and it's not wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just so that when I'm at my workstation I can set down my laptop and be good to go. I've tried a bunch of online exclusive places like Amazon, NewEgg, etc. and all the big chain places like Fry's and Best Buy. But I haven't seen one... and I'm not saying that I haven't seen some super expensive crazy custom one, or some questionable brand no one has heard of. I'm saying I haven't found a single one at all that has these specs...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26854" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="32c88cd6-6e48-4649-a7de-1ae76cc98912" CreationDate="2017-11-30T10:09:25.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26859" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="5e0a743f-c11e-4708-bac0-c8d4aee5bced" CreationDate="2017-11-30T11:09:24.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="c2e3b91b-dfa8-40ba-8909-99a747d30cae" CreationDate="2017-11-30T17:56:09.273" UserId="7420" Text="I'm looking for a server to run large number of parallel processes for statistical calculations (Ubuntu + Python). Currently we use 2x16 cores and 512Gb RAM (disk is of secondary importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supermicro SuperWorkstation 7048GR-TR Barebone System - Intel C612 Express Chipset - Socket R3 (LGA2011-3) - 2 x Processor Support&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x INTEL HASWELL 16C E5-2698V3 2.3G 40M 9.6GT/s QPI&#xD;&#xA; - 8 x 32GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We paid 14K+ for this config 3 years ago (bought from Supermicro resellers). Any cheaper way to replicate this or significantly improve in the same budget? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any hint is welcome on what to look at, I'm newbie in hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26862" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="c2e3b91b-dfa8-40ba-8909-99a747d30cae" CreationDate="2017-11-30T17:56:09.273" UserId="7420" Text="What is a price efficient parallel number crunching server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26863" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="c2e3b91b-dfa8-40ba-8909-99a747d30cae" CreationDate="2017-11-30T17:56:09.273" UserId="7420" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26867" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="053cc75e-5f5e-405b-a8d0-25f6994691f3" CreationDate="2017-11-30T19:42:25.863" UserId="7420" Comment="added 328 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a server to run large number of parallel processes for statistical calculations (Ubuntu + Python). Currently we use 2x16 cores and 512Gb RAM (disk is of secondary importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supermicro SuperWorkstation 7048GR-TR Barebone System - Intel C612 Express Chipset - Socket R3 (LGA2011-3) - 2 x Processor Support&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x INTEL HASWELL 16C E5-2698V3 2.3G 40M 9.6GT/s QPI&#xD;&#xA; - 8 x 32GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We paid 14K+ for this config 3 years ago (bought from Supermicro resellers). Any cheaper way to replicate this or significantly improve in the same budget? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Some more detail on our calculations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can parallelize our calculations to 3000 separate processes. The calculation is mostly in LAPACK (through Python/numpy). Prefer one big machine to several small ones, until a reasonable limit on price efficiency. Can spend 15K or 30K (if performance still doubles for the extra money).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any hint is welcome on what to look at, I'm newbie in hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8468" RevisionGUID="92c6caa4-514a-4e02-b762-10f1ce87e16a" CreationDate="2017-11-30T19:57:57.580" UserId="7420" Text="Here is a reasonable setup: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-a-price-efficient-parallel-number-crunching-server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you buy the parts from Amazon, you can assemble for $8600. When we bought from Supermicro reseller (3 years ago), it was $15K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For building bigger machines, I recommend sites like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.titancomputers.com/Titan-Simulation-and-Visualization-Computers-s/706.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here you can check what hardware components match each other, customize then buy, or assemble from Amazon (then you have to do the dirty work of assembling and installing OS)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8469" RevisionGUID="d31f0460-affc-4fc1-be5b-38044362f586" CreationDate="2017-11-30T19:59:18.427" UserId="3934" Text="### Background&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are numerous [problems](https://libreboot.org/faq.html#intelme) with the [Intel Management Engine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Management_Engine) and the AMD Platform Security Processor or similar always-on master key &quot;backdoors&quot;. Both practical, and (most importantly) _ideological_.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to &lt;strike&gt;my extensive research&lt;/strike&gt; Wikipedia, all Intel CPUs since 2008 and all AMD CPUs since 2013 have this embedded. Fortunately I don't often upgrade my computer and _to my knowledge_, my current Intel Core2 Q9400 CPU is not affected. I use Linux exclusively, and use it for electronics CAD and embedded software development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, my CPU _is_ starting to feel a bit sluggish, especially when building larger projects from source, and I'm now looking for a replacement. Problem is, it's not easy to find, or maybe I just don't know what to look for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short: I'm looking for a CPU to use in my home desktop machine, to run Linux and software development. This means that it's OK if if has a lot of cores because my workload is easy to parallelize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Faster than an Intel Core2 Q9400 by at least a factor of two&#xD;&#xA; - Consumer or &quot;Prosumer&quot; grade ATX-like motherboards available with at least 6 SATA channels and a PCI-e x16 slot&#xD;&#xA; - _Does not have to be available to buy in a store anymore!_ I'm almost counting on having to suffice with an older model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Bonus&#xD;&#xA; - [x86-64](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X86-64) architecture. This is not _strictly_ necessary, although it would make my life a lot easier.&#xD;&#xA; - Support for [ECC memory](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory)&#xD;&#xA; - Hardware AES acceleration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8469" RevisionGUID="d31f0460-affc-4fc1-be5b-38044362f586" CreationDate="2017-11-30T19:59:18.427" UserId="3934" Text="Looking to upgrade my CPU while avoiding the Intel Management Engine or AMD Platform Security Processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8469" RevisionGUID="d31f0460-affc-4fc1-be5b-38044362f586" CreationDate="2017-11-30T19:59:18.427" UserId="3934" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="c464279b-cfa7-4f32-b3b4-38f4015a2e09" CreationDate="2017-11-30T20:06:07.170" UserId="7420" Comment="added 146 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a server to run large number of parallel processes for statistical calculations (Ubuntu + Python). Currently we use 2x16 cores and 512Gb RAM (disk is of secondary importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supermicro SuperWorkstation 7048GR-TR Barebone System - Intel C612 Express Chipset - Socket R3 (LGA2011-3) - 2 x Processor Support&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x INTEL HASWELL 16C E5-2698V3 2.3G 40M 9.6GT/s QPI&#xD;&#xA; - 8 x 32GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We paid 14K+ for this config 3 years ago (bought from Supermicro resellers). Any cheaper way to replicate this or significantly improve in the same budget? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Some more detail on our calculations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can parallelize our calculations to 3000 separate processes. Runtime is 6 hours on current setup, would like to make this smaller so I can experiment with system parameters at least 2x in a working day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The calculation is mostly in LAPACK (through Python/numpy). Prefer one big machine to several small ones, until a reasonable limit on price efficiency. Can spend 15K or 30K (if performance still doubles for the extra money).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any hint is welcome on what to look at, I'm newbie in hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26876" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="d507596e-9bbc-4bfa-93bb-ea5c1f92ca95" CreationDate="2017-11-30T21:11:31.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="84fe21ae-5b81-4eb9-b32d-290a70cbb5c9" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:41:08.550" UserId="7422" Text="I'll start by admitting that I realize the Apple Mighty Mouse is beyond deprecated. I'm a musician and programmer, and I work on both Mac and PC. I continue to buy a &quot;new to me&quot; discontinued, re-conditioned, re-certified, pre-owned Apple Mighty Mouse every year or two for this reason: **the scroll wheel performs in two axes**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you haven't had the delight of a massive spreadsheet (Excel), or a musical score (Cubase), the Mighty Mouse is the only mouse I've found that lets you scroll both horizontally AND vertically without a key combo. It's magic. (I know, I could get a Magic mouse - but I refuse to use a wireless mouse - they chew up batteries and the tracking on any wireless mouse has always been terrible compared to a wired mouse, in my experience).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly, the design of the tiny scroller ball is such that it gets gummed up with &quot;hand cheese&quot; after a year or so and is so small that repair is impossible without breaking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's USB2 and I have a KVM switch. The Mighty Mouse (wired) continues to be the only mouse I can find with only the buttons I need, none of the buttons I don't need and don't want and an X-Y scroll &quot;ball&quot;, and it performs flawlessly on both Mac and PC through a KVM switch. The one flaw is the inferior size, shape and durability of the scroll ball sensors. Such a shame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are alternatives out there, I sure haven't found any. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Do you know of any other mouse that has an X-Y scrollwheel capability?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have programmer friends that can chat at length about how awesome their 100db mechanical keyboards are. Yet none of them can tell me about an equally amazing mouse. It's oddly absent from the internet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be very interested in your recommendation for a decent replacement mouse, USB2, wired, and why. I am not interested in any gaming mice! No extra buttons. I've found nothing for a professional graphic artist or musician who is looking for quality and durability." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26878" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="84fe21ae-5b81-4eb9-b32d-290a70cbb5c9" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:41:08.550" UserId="7422" Text="Is there an Apple Mighty Mouse alternative?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26879" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="84fe21ae-5b81-4eb9-b32d-290a70cbb5c9" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:41:08.550" UserId="7422" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8471" RevisionGUID="2248d4e5-b8b6-4a69-b2cd-6cb2b9320ee3" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:47:44.643" UserId="7423" Text="You're not going to do that much better just due to updated models of hardware.  For instance, current RAM will probably be 2400 rather than 2133, and current Xeon/Epyc chips will offer more banks (6-8 per socket, which only helps if your code is memory-bandwidth limited.)  The latest Xeons support AVX-512, which could double performance if your linear algebra is big enough, vectorizable, and you're linking with something like MKL.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see you mention 64 threads - have you actually measured whether HT is benefiting you?  It does only if a single thread can't keep the pipeline busy (and if you're spending all your time deep in a well-tuned LAPACK kernel, that's not the case...)  OTOH, if your code is really all about slamming big matrices around, have you turned on hugepage support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the huge memory footprint, it doesn't necessarily sound like GPUs will be a good fit (to be efficient, they need a lot of work to do on relatively small memory)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8466" RevisionGUID="a15cecb5-374a-4e41-89af-77e7aabef955" CreationDate="2017-11-30T23:24:23.827" UserId="7420" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a server to run large number of parallel processes for statistical calculations (Ubuntu + Python). Currently we use 2x16 cores and 512Gb RAM (disk is of secondary importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supermicro SuperWorkstation 7048GR-TR Barebone System - Intel C612 Express Chipset - Socket R3 (LGA2011-3) - 2 x Processor Support&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x INTEL HASWELL 16C E5-2698V3 2.3G 40M 9.6GT/s QPI&#xD;&#xA; - 8 x 32GB DDR4-2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We paid 14K+ for this config 3 years ago (bought from Supermicro resellers). Any cheaper way to replicate this or significantly improve in the same budget? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Some more detail on our calculations (EDIT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can parallelize our calculations to 3000 separate processes. Runtime is 6 hours on current setup, would like to make this smaller so I can experiment with system parameters at least 2x in a working day. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The calculation is mostly in LAPACK (through Python/numpy). Prefer one big machine to several small ones, until a reasonable limit on price efficiency. Can spend 15K or 30K (if performance still doubles for the extra money).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The code: Python with numpy, vectorized. Very few matrix multiplications happen, most of the operations are element-wise addition, multiplication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Code is already written (100K lines), we don't have the capacity to re-write. Also we change it every day and are glad for a flexible language as Python. This means GPU / resource sharing / multiple machines / AWS is not a possibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any hint is welcome on what to look at, I'm newbie in hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8472" RevisionGUID="f6396ec4-ae31-4847-9842-aa3aef875061" CreationDate="2017-12-01T06:22:02.823" UserId="203" Text="I'd recommend an **Ivy Bridge** or **Sandy Bridge E3 Xeon**, such as the **[E3 1245](https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984)**. These CPUs are more or less lower clocked i7 chips, and have excellent performance. They will, on average, have a performance between a stock i5 and i7. As shown in [these](https://www.techspot.com/review/991-gta-5-pc-benchmarks/page6.html) [benchmarks](https://www.techspot.com/review/1089-fallout-4-benchmarks/page5.html), this means that at 1080p, you will easily lock 60 FPS for the latter two games. It is very likely you will be able to  achieve a minimum of 60 FPS for the near future (ignoring GPU), except on very CPU heavy games like Assasin's Creed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to which Xeon to pick specifically, obviously, the bigger the number, the better. Note that the 1220 and 1225 series do not feature hyperthreading, and you may as well buy the equivalent i5. If you can find an equivalent i7 at under your budget, that would also be an option. Ivy Bridge (v2 or 3xxx) CPUs are more or less equivalent to a Sandy Bridge CPU clocked ~ 100 - 200 MHz faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These CPUs require a LGA 1155 motherboard. Check the manufacturer's webpage for compatibility if purchasing a Ivy Bridge CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Honourable mentions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Newer platform, similar performance:** The **Ryzen 3 1200** is *just* under your budget for [$99.99 at Amazon.com](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741DN383/). At stock, it's about the [same performance](http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-V2-vs-AMD-Ryzen-3-1200/m5622vs3931) as a higher end IB Xeon but you *do* get access to some modern bells and whistles on the newer platform. It has an [average overclock of 3.9 GHz](http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/ryzen_3_1200/), which may give a decent boost to performance. On the other hand, the newer platform has higher costs associated with the RAM and others. The Ryzen CPUs use a AM4 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new **Coffee Lake i3s** are *just* out of your price range, but *may* also be worth considering. The old AMD **FX series** on the other hand, while a decent amount cheaper, $75 for a &quot;6 core&quot; and $90 for 8 &amp;ndash; and have attractive looking clock speeds &amp;ndash; are definitely to be **avoided**, as they have significantly lower performance due to low IPC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8476" RevisionGUID="d39bdd18-af39-477f-9958-a14ce68ac309" CreationDate="2017-12-01T17:44:54.677" UserId="7440" Text="I have a _Dell Inspiron 7720_ laptop for a few years and I would like to **buy an SSD disk** for it. Currently, I have an SSD disk used as a cache for HDD disk (using _Intel Rapid Storage_). I want to remove the current SSD disk, use the new one as a **system boot disk** and the HDD as a data disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I stopped following new hardware a few years back, I'm not sure what to buy. I don't want you to suggest any particular model, rather just what technology and interface to choose. I want to buy the **best possible** but, of course, my laptop has to be able to use it (e.g. I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- motherboard: Dell 072P0M (**Intel HM77 chipset**)&#xD;&#xA;- 2 regular **SATA ports revision 3.0** (i.e. 6 Gb/s), 1 empty (other one used by the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;- **mSATA port** (used by the SSD which is in RAID with the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what to buy? It most likely doesn't have an _M.2_ interface so _SATA_ is the only option I guess. Is there any (performance) difference between _SATA_ and _mSATA_ or is it just a different form factor? It looks that _Inspiron 7720_ cannot boot from the _mSATA_ (there's some weird workaround but probably better not choose it, see [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/t/19514482), [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/p/19490832/21023607) or [this](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/inspiron-7720-os-on-the-msata-drive.691645/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some _SATA III_ SSD like _Samsung 850 Pro_ (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26895" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8476" RevisionGUID="d39bdd18-af39-477f-9958-a14ce68ac309" CreationDate="2017-12-01T17:44:54.677" UserId="7440" Text="Best SSD disk for Dell Inspiron 7720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26896" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8476" RevisionGUID="d39bdd18-af39-477f-9958-a14ce68ac309" CreationDate="2017-12-01T17:44:54.677" UserId="7440" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8477" RevisionGUID="f2cf3c04-292e-4e10-be61-79dd458a55fc" CreationDate="2017-12-01T17:53:58.663" UserId="620" Text="Although a bit buggy, [Asus Transformer Mini T102HA][1] is a considerable option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using this for 3-4 months, and my primary concern is the lack of apps, and the palm rejection has some issues very rarely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you're OK with using OneNote, this device can give you pretty good experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/2-in-1-PCs/ASUS-Transformer-Mini-T102HA/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8476" RevisionGUID="0762d5f6-8e6a-4c2f-8f78-f465489d1048" CreationDate="2017-12-01T18:27:08.983" UserId="7440" Comment="Corrected chipset" Text="I have a _Dell Inspiron 7720_ laptop for a few years and I would like to **buy an SSD disk** for it. Currently, I have an SSD disk used as a cache for HDD disk (using _Intel Rapid Storage_). I want to remove the current SSD disk, use the new one as a **system boot disk** and the HDD as a data disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I stopped following new hardware a few years back, I'm not sure what to buy. I don't want you to suggest any particular model, rather just what technology and interface to choose. I want to buy the **best possible** but, of course, my laptop has to be able to use it (e.g. I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- motherboard: Dell 072P0M (**Intel Ivy Bridge chipset** with **Intel HM77 southbridge**)&#xD;&#xA;- 2 regular **SATA ports revision 3.0** (i.e. 6 Gb/s), 1 empty (other one used by the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;- **mSATA port** (used by the SSD which is in RAID with the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what to buy? It most likely doesn't have an _M.2_ interface so _SATA_ is the only option I guess. Is there any (performance) difference between _SATA_ and _mSATA_ or is it just a different form factor? It looks that _Inspiron 7720_ cannot boot from the _mSATA_ (there's some weird workaround but probably better not choose it, see [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/t/19514482), [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/p/19490832/21023607) or [this](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/inspiron-7720-os-on-the-msata-drive.691645/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some _SATA III_ SSD like _Samsung 850 Pro_ (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26902" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="6fb358f7-dd55-4ee0-b970-9afc135125b4" CreationDate="2017-12-01T20:21:52.890" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8479" RevisionGUID="9473da7f-f5c4-4803-97f7-d36d01f7de04" CreationDate="2017-12-01T20:24:31.820" UserId="6475" Text="&gt;It most likely doesn't have an M.2 interface so SATA is the only option I guess.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You are correct here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Is there any (performance) difference between SATA and mSATA or is it just a different form factor? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;mSATA is a standard used to map SATA signals onto a PCI-E mini card connector, in order to run hard drives from a PCI-E connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Source](http://searchstorage.techtarget.com/definition/mSATA-SSD-mSATA-solid-state-drive)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not advise trying to force your machine to boost with this method, it adds needless complication according to the threads you linked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there any (performance) difference between SATA and mSATA or is it just a different form factor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a different form factor. It can still only use SATA data transfer protocol, so your throughput limitations are the same between form factors. The big difference from my understanding is where you plug it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This won't be an issue for you, your bottleneck for data transfer bandwidth doesn't occur here. Since you can't take advantage of the higher-speed PCI-E slot to connect your system boot drive (no M.2 support), you're going to be throttled by the SATA connection limitations anyhow. Don't worry, you'll still get plenty of speed improvement in real-world use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some SATA III SSD like Samsung 850 Pro (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung has been at the top of the SSD market for a few years. The 850 Pro is about as good as it gets for a 2.5 inch SATA 3.0 drive. I use one in my build and it works great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're shopping around, offerings from Crucial and Kingston can offer competitive real world performance for most workloads at a moderately lower price point. That being said, if you're looking for the best drive on the block that fits your specifications then it's hard to not recommend the Samsung 850 Pro." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26904" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8162" RevisionGUID="c716ddb7-8a62-4d78-8d97-5716effd265f" CreationDate="2017-12-01T21:25:08.940" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8480" RevisionGUID="7f126cc0-0c76-4ffa-bb34-88f06abd9ede" CreationDate="2017-12-01T22:21:16.607" UserId="7266" Text="There's many options, but a few that I would recommend over the others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't mind some DIY and have a nice wired mouse laying around, then this is the best option. This [github][1] is not too hard to install (my opinion, it might depend) and provides quite a lot of backwards compatibility. As long as you have 32-bit or 64-bit Office and Windows 2000/Excel 2000 or later, this option will work reliably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to get a mouse with a trackball. They are, in my experience, pretty comfortable once you get used to them. Also, there's a pretty wide spectrum. My friend uses a MX Ergo ([link here][2]) and has never complained. The battery lasts quite a while and the bluetooth &quot;Unifying&quot; receiver works really well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, if you don't mind any mouse as long as it has horizontal scrolling, just try a couple of the following. They all have horizontal scrolling, but I can't vouch for the reliability: [1][3], [2][4], [3][5], and [4][6] all should work but I don't know for sure. It's probably best to do a bit of research if you don't like any of the options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/T800G/OfficeScroll&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-ergo-wireless-trackball-mouse?crid=7&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Precision-Control-Desktop-Notebook-Black/dp/B01GCRZT5K/ref=br_lf_m_6qv4mku92hgmjjr_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=pc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-4-Button-Computer-Adjustable-Compatible/dp/B07579YHLF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512166725&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=side%20scrolling%20mouse%20wired&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Comfort-Mouse-4500-Business/dp/B005058B4W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512166725&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=side%2Bscrolling%2Bmouse%2Bwired&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-Optical-Mouse-Accessibility-Compatible/dp/B071XDW5RT/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512166805&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=side%20scrolling%20mouse%20wired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8482" RevisionGUID="ffaeaf7a-c5da-44cd-9f03-6ae7526e6a03" CreationDate="2017-12-02T12:43:02.230" UserId="7455" Text="I have around 200€ to spend on a graphics card to go together with my Ryzen 5 1600 CPU on an ASUS PRIME X370-PRO mobo. My goal is to be able to play 4k 60Hz video on one monitor. Neither gaming nor mining nor deep-learning are the goal. So, I am ok with 128-bit memory bus and as low as 2GBs of GDDR5 RAM. The physical size of the card is not an issue, it is a plus if it is power-efficient and high quality. Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26910" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8482" RevisionGUID="ffaeaf7a-c5da-44cd-9f03-6ae7526e6a03" CreationDate="2017-12-02T12:43:02.230" UserId="7455" Text="Budget GPU for Ryzen 5 1600 on ASUS PRIME X370-PRO to play 4k video?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26911" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8482" RevisionGUID="ffaeaf7a-c5da-44cd-9f03-6ae7526e6a03" CreationDate="2017-12-02T12:43:02.230" UserId="7455" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="217d38b4-d200-433c-a16b-aa96d9777561" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:25:23.580" UserId="7459" Text="Everywhere on internet i read about [NVLink][1] is more powerful than PCI lanes connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK, right. But now, i would use this power on my future computer for deeplearning (especially Resnet/TensorFlow training), mainly with GPU scripts based (Cuda). And why not on my current computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm reflecting about to buy this new base (sorry, i don't have the money to buy a DGX-1, neither a V100):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: ASUS [Z10PE-D8 WS][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 2x [i7 6850K][3] (40 lanes)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: 4x [GTX1080Ti][4] (or more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the PCIe is badly limited to x16/x16 with dual gpu, and x8/x8/x8/x8 with quadrial gpu... So, i'm not satisfied at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is it possible to active NVLink instead of PCIe to improve the performance ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there another solution to override/improve the number of lanes ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**At least, is there another mobo/cpu supporting x16/x16/x16/x16 with dual CPU ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios modding or whatever, i would want to go beyond this limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nvlink.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/Z10PED8_WS/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/94188/Intel-Core-i7-6850K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26914" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="217d38b4-d200-433c-a16b-aa96d9777561" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:25:23.580" UserId="7459" Text="How to use NVLink instead of PCIe?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26915" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="217d38b4-d200-433c-a16b-aa96d9777561" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:25:23.580" UserId="7459" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26916" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="8578d80f-85f8-47bb-b517-69b41267e427" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:33:29.377" UserId="7459" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="How to use NVLink instead of PCIe / Override PCIe Lanes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26917" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="8578d80f-85f8-47bb-b517-69b41267e427" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:33:29.377" UserId="7459" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8484" RevisionGUID="6a8598fe-7f80-430b-85fa-b052a8c59d85" CreationDate="2017-12-02T19:08:56.870" UserId="7459" Text="I bought the *Asus UX410UQ-GV068T* for coding and graphism.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Core i7 7500U 2.7Ghz&#xD;&#xA;    GPU: Geforce GTX 400MX 2GB Vram&#xD;&#xA;    SCREEN: 14&quot; Led screen Full Hd&#xD;&#xA;    DATA: SSD 128go + HDD 500go&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8Go DDR4 2133mhz (+ i added 8go - 123€)&#xD;&#xA;    MORE: 1x Usb3, 2x Usb2, Hdmi port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beautiful design (silver), comfortable screen (it's a 13&quot; case with a 14&quot; screen with thin border) and beautiful color, backlit keyboard, battery 8 hours, large touchpad, ergonomic and pro. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photoshop, Illustrator, Brackets and tons of tabs on chrome with music at the same time and the computer works like a charm. Linux compatible (useful with 2 Disks). CUDA 9. I even succeed to play Battlefield 1 on it (with good framerate on mid/low settings).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personnaly, i searched for a long and didn't found the half for 1069€ (sales price)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8484" RevisionGUID="b86ee819-64ed-4493-96f8-6939fbd6ef7e" CreationDate="2017-12-02T19:31:21.767" UserId="7459" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="I bought an ultra-book *Asus UX410UQ-GV068T* for coding and graphism.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU: Intel Core i7 7500U 2.7Ghz&#xD;&#xA;    GPU: Geforce GTX 400MX 2GB Vram&#xD;&#xA;    SCREEN: 14&quot; Led screen Full Hd&#xD;&#xA;    DATA: SSD 128go + HDD 500go&#xD;&#xA;    RAM: 8Go DDR4 2133mhz (+ i added 8go - 123€)&#xD;&#xA;    MORE: 1x Usb3, 2x Usb2, Hdmi port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beautiful design (silver), comfortable screen (it's a 13&quot; case with a 14&quot; screen with thin border) and beautiful color, backlit keyboard, battery 8 hours, large touchpad, ergonomic and pro. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photoshop, Illustrator, Brackets and tons of tabs on chrome with music at the same time and the computer works like a charm. Linux compatible (useful with 2 Disks). CUDA 9. I even succeed to play Battlefield 1 on it (with good framerate on mid/low settings).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personnaly, i searched for a long and didn't found the half for 1069€ (sales price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;If you want a notebook, something more powerful and not so expensive, you should look for [Gigabyte laptops][1] or [Msi laptops][2], there are both specialized in laptops for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.msi.com/Laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8485" RevisionGUID="b216c90a-4aa8-4bdc-8ff9-dcea61554dbc" CreationDate="2017-12-02T22:58:22.647" UserId="7462" Text="I am and looking to purchase a new desktop as my current one is about 6 years old. I don't keep up with the latest in terms of hardware, and as I am looking and researching, I am surprised by an apparent large price difference between Intels I7's and AMD's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you search for Ryzen 5 1600X, you will see a surpringly capable CPU for a great price in comparison to the other CPU's surrounding it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question** is there more to this than what's on the surface? Are there other benefits the Intel processors provide, or is it just that Intel has 80% of the market and can charge what they want?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**INFO:** I casually play games of all types, I'm not obsessed with the highest graphics possible, and no particular interest in VR. In addition to games, I do use this for work, developing reports and working with databases. So I don't have any particular requirements, just looking for a new system to replace my outdated one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26921" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8485" RevisionGUID="b216c90a-4aa8-4bdc-8ff9-dcea61554dbc" CreationDate="2017-12-02T22:58:22.647" UserId="7462" Text="AMD vs Intel prices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26922" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8485" RevisionGUID="b216c90a-4aa8-4bdc-8ff9-dcea61554dbc" CreationDate="2017-12-02T22:58:22.647" UserId="7462" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26923" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="4144cfc5-aee5-4c70-a44e-c175b88fcb87" CreationDate="2017-12-02T23:48:23.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26924" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="302e9bb0-cf2f-445a-9219-8b030efea962" CreationDate="2017-12-02T23:55:04.763" UserId="4065" Text="I'm trying to find an 8 port managed switch with good scope for defining ACLs. Beyond that, the spec is fairly well defined so it's mostly down to &quot;who makes this spec cheapest and not abysmal quality&quot; :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kinds of features I'm after will tend to imply other features will be there &quot;automatically&quot;, so I don't need to spec everything - for example it's incredibly unlikely that a switch with ACLs and VLANs won't also have port mirroring, so I don't need to list that specifically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's sometimes hard to figure which switches have decent ACL capability - as in, fairly full-scope permit/deny on a list of ports, IPs and ideally other protocol elements. For example, I can imagine some switch that allowed 3 rather limited rules, that wouldn't be what I'm after. But it's hard to list exactly what ACL capabilities I need, I'd have to read up on recommended models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also some product lines, the 8 port versions don't have ACLs where all others in the range do have them, and that's often buried in small print.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is a home LAN, so I don't need catalysts, but that said, some Cisco is surprisingly cheap second hand and I routinely buy previous-generation hardware second hand (EBay etc) rather than new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the spec I'm after is well established stuff, so it won't have changed for 5 - 10 years so older in good condition would be fine too. If it matters I'm in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Essential features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 port RJ-45 gigabit port switch *(prefer not 16, overkill for this)*&#xD;&#xA;- 9k Jumbo frames&#xD;&#xA;- VLAN's&#xD;&#xA;- port grouping&#xD;&#xA;- 802.1X (radius/tacacs+ or similar)&#xD;&#xA;- ACLs - sets of &quot;permit/deny&quot; rules that can be set on IP/port/MAC etc for each port or group&#xD;&#xA;- Reputation of manufacturer to provide updates for an extended period as an enterprise would need (eg in case of future security issues/firmware bugs, so I'm not left up a creek without a paddle!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Everything else&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No need for rack mounting - **smaller is better**&#xD;&#xA;- Bridging/rapid bridging/spanning nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- QoS tags nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- No need for PoE&#xD;&#xA;- Most other stuff (Mac address count, buffer, backplane GB/s etc) will be fine on any model, so no need to spec it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26925" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="302e9bb0-cf2f-445a-9219-8b030efea962" CreationDate="2017-12-02T23:55:04.763" UserId="4065" Text="8 port managed switch with good ACL capability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26926" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="302e9bb0-cf2f-445a-9219-8b030efea962" CreationDate="2017-12-02T23:55:04.763" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26930" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="4fd9d6ce-8528-40a5-b1f7-e9dc7fe6c725" CreationDate="2017-12-03T07:48:59.843" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26931" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="e7521cf4-497d-4a91-99fa-b444411d866b" CreationDate="2017-12-03T08:57:23.583" UserId="4065" Comment="added 28 characters in body; added 3 characters in body; edited body; added 35 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to find an 8 port managed switch with good scope for defining ACLs. Beyond that, the spec is fairly well defined so it's mostly down to &quot;who makes this spec cheapest and not abysmal quality&quot; :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kinds of features I'm after will tend to imply other features will be there &quot;automatically&quot;, so I don't need to spec everything - for example it's incredibly unlikely that a switch with ACLs and VLANs won't also have port mirroring, so I don't need to list that specifically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's sometimes hard to figure which switches have decent ACL capability - as in, fairly full-scope permit/deny on a list of ports, IPs and ideally other protocol elements. For example, I can imagine some switch that allowed 3 rather limited rules, that wouldn't be what I'm after. But it's hard to list exactly what ACL capabilities I need, I'd have to read up on recommended models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also some product lines, the 8 port versions don't have ACLs where all others in the range do have them, and that's often buried in small print.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is a home LAN, so I don't need catalysts, but that said, some Cisco is surprisingly cheap second hand and I routinely buy previous-generation hardware second hand (EBay etc) rather than new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the spec I'm after is well established stuff, so it won't have changed for 5 - 10 years so older in good condition would be fine too. If it matters I'm in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Essential features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 port RJ-45 gigabit port switch *(prefer not 16, overkill for this)*&#xD;&#xA;- 9k Jumbo frames&#xD;&#xA;- VLAN's&#xD;&#xA;- Port grouping&#xD;&#xA;- 802.1X with RADIUS/TACACS+ or similar&#xD;&#xA;- ACLs - sets of &quot;permit/deny&quot; rules that can be set on IP/Port (and ideally protocol) etc for each port or group&#xA;- MAC filtering&#xA;- GUI web config&#xD;&#xA;- Reputation of manufacturer to provide updates for an extended period as an enterprise would need (eg in case of future security issues/firmware bugs, so I'm not left up a creek without a paddle!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Everything else&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No need for rack mounting - **smaller is better**&#xD;&#xA;- Bridging/rapid bridging/spanning nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- QoS tags nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- No need for PoE&#xD;&#xA;- Most other stuff (Mac address count, buffer, backplane,mirroring, GB/s etc) will be fine on any model, so no need to spec it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26932" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="2985af32-31f7-447c-a720-b8f680b20971" CreationDate="2017-12-03T09:48:58.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26933" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="97c8bfcc-5737-481c-b2ec-20da3c52358f" CreationDate="2017-12-03T14:32:49.710" UserId="7459" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="Everywhere on internet i read about [NVLink][1] is more powerful than PCI lanes connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK, right. But now, i would use this power on my future computer for deeplearning (especially Resnet/TensorFlow training), mainly with GPU scripts based (Cuda). And why not on my current computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm reflecting about to buy this new base (sorry, i don't have the money to buy a DGX-1, neither a V100):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: ASUS [Z10PE-D8 WS][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 2x [Xeon E5-2620 v4][3] (40 lanes)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: 4x [GTX1080Ti][4] (or more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the PCIe is badly limited to x16/x16 with dual gpu, and x8/x8/x8/x8 with quadrial gpu... So, i'm not satisfied at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is it possible to active NVLink instead of PCIe to improve the performance ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there another solution to override/improve the number of lanes ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**At least, is there another mobo/cpu supporting x16/x16/x16/x16 with dual CPU ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios modding or whatever, i would want to go beyond this limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nvlink.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/Z10PED8_WS/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/92986/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2620-v4-20M-Cache-2_10-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26934" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="6f6b420f-9387-41ae-9445-94f1e302b5c8" CreationDate="2017-12-03T15:06:15.160" UserId="7459" Comment="added 232 characters in body" Text="Everywhere on internet i read about [NVLink][1] is more powerful than PCI lanes connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK, right. But now, i would use this power on my future computer for deeplearning (especially Resnet/TensorFlow training), mainly with GPU scripts based (Cuda). And why not on my current computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm reflecting about to buy this new base (sorry, i don't have the money to buy a DGX-1, neither a V100):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: ASUS [Z10PE-D8 WS][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 2x [Xeon E5-2620 v4][3] (40 lanes)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: 4x [GTX1080Ti][4] (or more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the PCIe is badly limited to x16/x16 with dual gpu, and x8/x8/x8/x8 with quadrial gpu... So, i'm not satisfied at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is it possible to active NVLink instead of PCIe to improve the performance ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there another solution to override/improve the number of lanes ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**At least, is there another mobo/cpu supporting x16/x16/x16/x16 with dual CPU ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios modding or whatever, i would want to go beyond this limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Edit]** The motherboard seems to handle 2 PCIe x16 for each cpu. The i7 are 1S only, i changed to Xeon 2600 v4 series, thanks [Alpha3031][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nvlink.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/Z10PED8_WS/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/92986/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2620-v4-20M-Cache-2_10-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/203/alpha3031" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26935" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="60b72c03-0f5d-46a8-84ce-64cb4ced41b6" CreationDate="2017-12-03T18:13:23.957" UserId="4065" Comment="edited body; added 2 characters in body; added 49 characters in body; added 69 characters in body; added 75 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to find an 8 port managed switch with good scope for defining ACLs. Beyond that, the spec is fairly well defined so it's mostly down to &quot;who makes this spec cheapest and not abysmal quality&quot; :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kinds of features I'm after will tend to imply other features will be there &quot;automatically&quot;, so I don't need to spec everything - for example it's incredibly unlikely that a switch with ACLs and VLANs won't also have port mirroring, so I don't need to list that specifically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's sometimes hard to figure which switches have decent ACL capability - as in, fairly full-scope permit/deny on a list of ports, IPs and ideally other protocol elements. For example, I can imagine some switch that allowed 3 rather limited rules, that wouldn't be what I'm after. But it's hard to list exactly what ACL capabilities I need, I'd have to read up on recommended models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also some product lines, the 8 port versions don't have ACLs where all others in the range do have them, and that's often buried in small print.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is a home LAN, so I don't need catalysts, but that said, some Cisco is surprisingly cheap second hand and I routinely buy previous-generation hardware second hand (EBay etc) rather than new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the spec I'm after is well established stuff, so it won't have changed for 5 - 10 years so older in good condition would be fine too. If it matters I'm in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Essential features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 port RJ-45 gigabit port switch *(prefer not 16, overkill for this)*&#xD;&#xA;- 9k Jumbo frames&#xD;&#xA;- VLAN's&#xD;&#xA;- Port grouping&#xA;- Bridging&#xD;&#xA;- 802.1X with RADIUS/TACACS+ or similar&#xD;&#xA;- ACLs - sets of &quot;permit/deny&quot; rules that can be set on IP/Port (and ideally protocol) etc for each port or group&#xA;- MAC filtering&#xA;- GUI web config&#xD;&#xA;- Reputation of manufacturer to provide updates for an extended period as an enterprise would need (eg in case of future security issues/firmware bugs, and unlike many consumer oriented manufacturers, so I'm not left up a creek without a paddle!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Everything else&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No need for rack mounting - **smaller is better**&#xD;&#xA;- Spanning/rapid spanning nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- QoS tags nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- No need for PoE&#xA;- No need for redundant PSU and don't mind internal v external PSU, or active v passive cooling (not mission critical or a heat-prone location)&#xD;&#xA;- Most other stuff (Mac address count, buffer, backplane,mirroring, GB/s etc) will be fine on any model, so no need to spec it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8486" RevisionGUID="02c20410-b125-4913-85cf-3a377f38442b" CreationDate="2017-12-03T18:20:04.917" UserId="4065" Comment="added 138 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to find an 8 port managed switch with good scope for defining ACLs. Beyond that, the spec is fairly well defined so it's mostly down to &quot;who makes this spec cheapest and not abysmal quality&quot; :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kinds of features I'm after will tend to imply other features will be there &quot;automatically&quot;, so I don't need to spec everything - for example it's incredibly unlikely that a switch with ACLs and VLANs won't also have port mirroring, so I don't need to list that specifically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it's sometimes hard to figure which switches have decent ACL capability - as in, fairly full-scope permit/deny on a list of ports, IPs and ideally other protocol elements. For example, I can imagine some switch that allowed 3 rather limited rules, that wouldn't be what I'm after. But it's hard to list exactly what ACL capabilities I need, I'd have to read up on recommended models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Also some product lines, the 8 port versions don't have ACLs where all others in the range do have them, and that's often buried in small print.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is a home LAN, so I don't need catalysts, but that said, some Cisco is surprisingly cheap second hand and I routinely buy previous-generation hardware second hand (EBay etc) rather than new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the spec I'm after is well established stuff, so it won't have changed for 5 - 10 years so older in good condition would be fine too. If it matters I'm in the UK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Essential features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 8 port RJ-45 gigabit port switch *(prefer not 16, overkill for this)*&#xD;&#xA;- 9k Jumbo frames&#xD;&#xA;- VLAN's&#xD;&#xA;- Port grouping&#xA;- Bridging&#xD;&#xA;- 802.1X with RADIUS/TACACS+ or similar&#xD;&#xA;- ACLs - sets of &quot;permit/deny&quot; rules that can be set on IP/Port (and ideally protocol) etc for each port or group&#xA;- MAC filtering&#xA;- Non-feeble backplane and buffer (I don't need 2Gb per port x 8 ports, but I'd like to have at least say 3 or 4	Gb/s possible across it)&#xA;- GUI web config&#xD;&#xA;- Reputation of manufacturer to provide updates for an extended period as an enterprise would need (eg in case of future security issues/firmware bugs, and unlike many consumer oriented manufacturers, so I'm not left up a creek without a paddle!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Everything else&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No need for rack mounting - **smaller is better**&#xD;&#xA;- Spanning/rapid spanning nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- QoS tags nice if possible, not essential&#xD;&#xA;- No need for PoE&#xA;- No need for redundant PSU and don't mind internal v external PSU, or active v passive cooling (not mission critical or a heat-prone location)&#xD;&#xA;- Most other stuff (Mac address count, buffer, backplane,mirroring, GB/s etc) will be fine on any model, so no need to spec it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26937" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8488" RevisionGUID="3ceae89a-f8c3-4d47-ba8e-6648112f3a3f" CreationDate="2017-12-03T22:41:06.800" UserId="6233" Text="Maybe your current hardware is still enough? Would be nice if you could list it, programs like speccy and HWinfo can list your stuff if you do not know. Target (or native display) resolution , budget and and current games you would like to play are of help for you and us to help you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The remark concerning the 1600x is spot on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question I will take a look at Intels current similar priced counterpart to the 1600x(6C,12T): The core i5 8400(6C, 6T). The CPU has no SMT so no additional 6 threads like the 1600x which means that demanding programs which need a lot of threads will run slightly slower on the 8400 but Intels gaming performance is slightly ahead. The CPUs are roughly equal but that depends on your settings and programs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4K gaming the performance is similar, lower resolutions result in 10% - 20% advantage in fps for the Intel and 10% better frame times. Demanding stuff with lots of threads will run 10% faster on the AMD, maybe more, maybe less. The Intel CPU has also a slightly lower power consumption in most if not all possible scenarios, maybe difference 5W - 10W idle to medium loads and up to 20W in peak loads. Comparison without any overclocking on either side. You can flip a coin, let your software decide or - most importantly - look if your CPU is available since here in Germany right now the 8xxx Intels are hard to get or overpriced. Data for the performance is from a German PC site: https://www.computerbase.de/2017-10/intel-coffee-lake-8700k-8400-8350k-8100-test/5/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info: The Ryzen is slightly cooler thx to soldered and not glued heatsink, the 1600 should have a decent reworked cooler which allows decent overclocking to save some bucks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26938" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8488" RevisionGUID="d513d27f-0505-4291-a1c1-d1e06392f45e" CreationDate="2017-12-03T22:47:44.547" UserId="6233" Comment="added 162 characters in body" Text="Maybe your current hardware is still enough? Would be nice if you could list it, programs like speccy and HWinfo can list your stuff if you do not know. Target (or native display) resolution , budget and and current games you would like to play are of help for you and us to help you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The remark concerning the 1600x is spot on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question I will take a look at Intels current similar priced counterpart to the 1600x(6C,12T): The core i5 8400(6C, 6T). The CPU has no SMT so no additional 6 threads like the 1600x which means that demanding programs which need a lot of threads will run slightly slower on the 8400 but Intels gaming performance is slightly ahead. The CPUs are roughly equal but that depends on your settings and programs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4K gaming the performance is similar, lower resolutions result in 10% - 20% advantage in fps for the Intel and 10% better frame times. Demanding stuff with lots of threads will run 10% faster on the AMD, maybe more, maybe less. The Intel CPU has also a slightly lower power consumption in most if not all possible scenarios, maybe 5W - 10W difference idle to medium loads and up to 20W in peak loads. Comparison without any overclocking on either side. You can flip a coin, let your software decide or - most importantly - look if your CPU is available since here in Germany right now the 8xxx Intels are hard to get or overpriced. Data for the performance is from a German PC site: https://www.computerbase.de/2017-10/intel-coffee-lake-8700k-8400-8350k-8100-test/5/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info: The Ryzen is slightly cooler thx to soldered and not glued heatsink, the 1600 non x should have a decent reworked cooler which allows decent overclocking to save some bucks, Ryzen can be used with cheaper mainboards for like 75$ since only 3xx chipset socket 1151 boards work with Intels 8xxx CPUs right now which cost at least 100$, cheaper boards are rumoured to come 'soon'." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26939" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8485" RevisionGUID="bfd4f9c3-a69f-46be-99c6-cabc097f4862" CreationDate="2017-12-04T03:07:23.877" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26940" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8489" RevisionGUID="0ffa2ade-d1f0-45cb-9910-9b0821c22e94" CreationDate="2017-12-04T07:03:27.380" UserId="7485" Text="I'd like to create a free hotspot wifi in my cafè to get email/phone number (previous agreement of the user) from my clients. In other words, I want an access point with costumizable captive portal. I see that exists the Ubiquiti access point but they require to buy the Cloud key to work correctly, right? Otherwise there is the TP-Link EAP 245/225 that are compatible with Facebook Wifi (to get like on a facebook page) but I don't understand if I can set a personalized authenticathion page where I can get all data that I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another lowcost solution for do that is using a raspberry with a custom OS as ZeroShell but I don't know if the performance is good or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are others simple systems to do that? I search a low cost solution. I expect to have a load of 25-30 person simultaneously." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26941" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8489" RevisionGUID="0ffa2ade-d1f0-45cb-9910-9b0821c22e94" CreationDate="2017-12-04T07:03:27.380" UserId="7485" Text="Access point for small business hotspot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26942" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8489" RevisionGUID="0ffa2ade-d1f0-45cb-9910-9b0821c22e94" CreationDate="2017-12-04T07:03:27.380" UserId="7485" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8491" RevisionGUID="f9905d03-17bd-42eb-a466-25153b430594" CreationDate="2017-12-04T12:17:26.943" UserId="6143" Text="I'm looking for a device that has the following capabilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- min 50 Hz 3-axis accelerometer and 3-axis gyroscope&#xD;&#xA;- bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- wifi&#xD;&#xA;- programmable&#xD;&#xA;- at least 1 Gb storage&#xD;&#xA;- decent (rechargeable) battery (should be able to stream at least 20 hours of data)&#xD;&#xA;- the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be a plus, if it had any extra measuring capabilities (e.g. gps, temperature, magnetometer etc) had a sturdy casing and maybe a GSM module, but the main things are the ones I listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking around but haven't found one that could do all of these yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26947" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8491" RevisionGUID="f9905d03-17bd-42eb-a466-25153b430594" CreationDate="2017-12-04T12:17:26.943" UserId="6143" Text="Looking for device with following capabilities" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26948" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8491" RevisionGUID="f9905d03-17bd-42eb-a466-25153b430594" CreationDate="2017-12-04T12:17:26.943" UserId="6143" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8492" RevisionGUID="a5dd76f5-5cce-4790-9182-f645896b9cb9" CreationDate="2017-12-04T15:30:11.900" UserId="7493" Text="I think you should try Razer Blade pro it is perfect for  development. it used last generation core i7 CPU. It has 2.9GHz speed, with a 3.9GHz Turbo and 4.3GHz over-clock potential. It has Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 GPU with 8GB of VRAM. You batter read [best 17&quot; laptops][1] to compare with other laptop.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://toptechreview.tech/best-17-inch-laptop/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GPCu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26951" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8492" RevisionGUID="c3773cf6-dd6e-4d5b-8bb1-c0a32e27937c" CreationDate="2017-12-04T16:35:20.230" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 53 characters in body" Text="I think you should try the [Razer Blade Pro 4K](https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-laptops/razer-blade-pro); it is perfect for development. It uses the 7th generation core i7 CPU. It has 2.9GHz speed, with a 3.9GHz Turbo and 4.3GHz over-clock potential. It has Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 GPU with 8GB of VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GPCu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26952" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="0a8bbe49-2c6a-46bd-ab42-61ddae16e73d" CreationDate="2017-12-04T18:29:20.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="117" RevisionGUID="4c782fd2-f06c-4ce0-b5a9-4ee63bca598a" CreationDate="2017-12-04T19:58:31.667" UserId="61" Comment="Updated based on new cable specs as of Dev 2017" Text="It should also be noted that along with GPU memory and clock speed (see Enigma's answer) that the GPU should also post what version of port the card uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two most popular are HDMI/DVI and Display Port. Most 4k screens only accept HDMI (no DVI) and Display port ([example][1]), research what is supported on the model you plan to buy. Most sub-4k monitors support VGA (old), DVI, HDMI and Display Port however not all at once depending on the quality of the screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick reference:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 1.4 supports 4k at only 30Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 2.0 supports 4k at 60Hz ([ref][2])&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI 2.1 supports 4k at 120Hz ([ref][7] as of Dec 2017) &#xD;&#xA; - Display Port 1.2 /w Multi-Stream Transport(MST) supports 4k at 60Hz (currently the most popular) ([ref][3], [ref][9])&#xD;&#xA; - Display Port 1.3 / 1.4 supports 4k at 120Hz ([ref][8])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently on the nVidia side most of the 600/700 series that have a display port plug [support 4k][4] but in my experience will struggle with it if there is a lot of dynamic content.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;*For the sake of this answer 4k is referencing 3840 by 2160, however it can mean other resolutions check [here][5]. Also use of an adapter will not grant the full potential Hz of a port see [here][6].*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/it/monitor/uhd-monitor/LU28D590DS/ZC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cnet.com/news/4k-hdmi-cables-are-nonsense/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.vesa.org/faqs/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://developer.nvidia.com/4k-ultra-high-resolution-development&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution#Resolutions&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2554074/displayport-hdmi.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_1/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.avadirect.com/blog/displayport-vs-hdmi-vs-dvi-vs-vga/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26954" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="d3141a46-244f-41ab-8dc8-c6a9fd3e2735" CreationDate="2017-12-04T21:29:23.627" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26955" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="1b6c3f92-76ac-4682-b9e2-759e12528c82" CreationDate="2017-12-04T23:29:24.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8494" RevisionGUID="1d282125-adf6-4c57-8271-7f41514d3c14" CreationDate="2017-12-05T02:02:00.827" UserId="7501" Text="Any potential problem with charge New MacBook Pro 2016 with use Apple iPad 12W USB Power Adapter since they are all usb c?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8494" RevisionGUID="1d282125-adf6-4c57-8271-7f41514d3c14" CreationDate="2017-12-05T02:02:00.827" UserId="7501" Text="can I charge New MacBook Pro 2016 with use Apple iPad 12W USB Power Adapter since they are all usb c?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8494" RevisionGUID="1d282125-adf6-4c57-8271-7f41514d3c14" CreationDate="2017-12-05T02:02:00.827" UserId="7501" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8495" RevisionGUID="cfe5d706-c6a4-456b-9e97-2b1b091d0a3a" CreationDate="2017-12-05T06:09:30.040" UserId="7044" Text="I am trying to find something that is exceptionally weird and bizarre. I want to use a M.2 NVMe x4 SSD in a PCI-Express x1 slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;x4 NVMe SSDs directly use PCIe bus protocol, and so can be directly plugged into a full-size PCIe slot using a simple passive adapter. But there are four data lines, so these passive adapters are virtually all x4 lane cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By specification, all PCIe cards are backwards compatible with the lowest bandwidth x1 lane slots. If the x1 slot is designed with an open end, it is possible to plug a x16 card into it with 15 lanes hanging exposed in midair and unconnected, and it will work. It won't work well but it will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what I need is a NVMe x4 passive adapter card, which will plug the M.2 into a normal PCIe x1 slot, and leaves the remaining 3 lanes unconnected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been searching the web on and off for months and have not found anything like this yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26963" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8495" RevisionGUID="cfe5d706-c6a4-456b-9e97-2b1b091d0a3a" CreationDate="2017-12-05T06:09:30.040" UserId="7044" Text="M.2 NVMe x4 adapter card for PCIe x1 slot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26964" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8495" RevisionGUID="cfe5d706-c6a4-456b-9e97-2b1b091d0a3a" CreationDate="2017-12-05T06:09:30.040" UserId="7044" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26965" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="d1a52be5-45de-496b-9c1b-7fdc2b21875a" CreationDate="2017-12-05T06:36:27.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26970" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="8497" RevisionGUID="9a42057b-f46e-4173-91d6-b8bf85f0c2a1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T16:30:13.960" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://dsp.stackexchange.com/questions/45260/max-output-voltage-preamplifier" />
  <row Id="26971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8497" RevisionGUID="cc074d05-2c91-4c03-89a1-d91d623fca4c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T19:31:23.777" UserDisplayName="EduardoG" Text="I'm looking a preamplifier to get 1-2 Volt as Maximum Output Voltage of a microphone with jack or RCA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To get a line-in signal and then modulate in FM. I don't know if this I've found works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Beh­ringer MA400][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because to modulate in FM I need to know exactly the Maximum Output Voltage the microphone line-level can get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$$\max\vert x(t)\vert$$  related with max deviation frequency $\Delta f= fd*\max\vert x(t)\vert$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If i can regulate the output would be perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I'm gonna put this output in  Fm modulator circuit wich I made with VCO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know a product or something like I'm looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thomann.de/es/behringer_ma_400.htm?glp=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9qKqxsLdbmJCPvAnOreQln6HexcD-QzMCDxQJEZ5sBQUKRem5o69B4aAo74EALw_wcB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8497" RevisionGUID="cc074d05-2c91-4c03-89a1-d91d623fca4c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T19:31:23.777" UserDisplayName="EduardoG" Text="Max Output Voltage preamplifier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8497" RevisionGUID="cc074d05-2c91-4c03-89a1-d91d623fca4c" CreationDate="2017-11-18T19:31:23.777" UserDisplayName="EduardoG" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26974" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="723ab113-b568-4d50-8306-47e651e010c2" CreationDate="2017-12-05T16:38:12.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26976" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8494" RevisionGUID="6fa5c5a7-33ac-417a-a109-971a58dd4bbc" CreationDate="2017-12-05T17:07:25.770" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8497" RevisionGUID="9f967fdf-f477-404c-a166-4047a8cd6ad1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T20:43:29.900" UserId="8" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a preamplifier to get 1-2 Volt as Maximum Output Voltage from a microphone with jack or RCA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should get a line-in signal and then modulate in FM. I've found one potential option, though I'm not 100% sure if it works for what I want, because to modulate in FM I need to know exactly the Maximum Output Voltage the microphone line-level can get: [Behringer MA400][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to be able to regulate the output. I'm gonna put this output into an FM modulator circuit that I made with VCO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know a product or something like I'm looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.thomann.de/es/behringer_ma_400.htm?glp=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9qKqxsLdbmJCPvAnOreQln6HexcD-QzMCDxQJEZ5sBQUKRem5o69B4aAo74EALw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/oW4tn.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8498" RevisionGUID="7b6d4f49-b4b6-4e12-9b76-36662428719a" CreationDate="2017-12-06T00:23:37.513" UserId="7044" Text="After doing some more hunting with weird search terms, I have found a solution in the Amazon Marketplace:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/NGFF-PCIe-Adapter-Samsung-SM951/dp/B01MS64UBB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;US$ 34.95 .. a bit expensive for a board with virtually nothing to it, but oh well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the correct non-SATA adapter card, if all it has is the M.2 slot with no chips on the board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjiav.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8499" RevisionGUID="e3aca647-26fa-487c-ab1d-0118af3418ac" CreationDate="2017-12-06T05:21:48.283" UserId="7524" Text="I'm looking to update  my servers motherboard with a newer board. The reason I'm looking to upgrade is because I'd like to be able to install a decent graphics card. I can't at the moment because the PCI port is only a x4 and I would need a x16.&#xA;&#xA;I'm not exactly sure what kind of motherboard is, but it's a Cisco Ironport s370. It used to be a network security server, but now it just sits in my basement with no use and I was going to try to upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Price range, I could get anything up to $350 for a motherboard, and I already have a CPU, heatsink, and RAM that works with the server.&#xA;&#xA;If you have any suggestions on what motherboard I should get, or if you can figure out what kind of motherboard it has please let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26980" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8499" RevisionGUID="e3aca647-26fa-487c-ab1d-0118af3418ac" CreationDate="2017-12-06T05:21:48.283" UserId="7524" Text="What motherboard should I get to upgrade my Cisco Ironport s370s motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26981" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8499" RevisionGUID="e3aca647-26fa-487c-ab1d-0118af3418ac" CreationDate="2017-12-06T05:21:48.283" UserId="7524" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="4635d4d6-a71f-44d2-95fa-909309d05356" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:08:53.483" UserId="7530" Text="I work with `Maya`/`3DsMax` and `Redshift`/`Vray` (usually `Redshift`, rendering on a graphics card).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to buy a powerful mobile workstation so I can render things quickly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which parameters should I look for when searching for a laptop for this?&#xD;&#xA;Are there any machines designed especially for these tasks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="4635d4d6-a71f-44d2-95fa-909309d05356" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:08:53.483" UserId="7530" Text="What laptop should I buy for rendering/3d modeling?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="4635d4d6-a71f-44d2-95fa-909309d05356" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:08:53.483" UserId="7530" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8501" RevisionGUID="9bdf8313-c175-447a-bc90-397ecd4013fd" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:46:34.010" UserId="7531" Text="**[Here][1] is my list** of the parts on amazon of the new PC i am going to build for my friend. I need some experienced advice if that build is okay on that ~700 pounds budget or how it can be better on the same budget. This pc is mainly for gaming. Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering to change the processor to ryzen 3 1300x and buy a small SSD to keep the budget but still be good for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/registry/wishlist/2OK6I2T2BEWBD/ref=nav_wishlist_lists_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8501" RevisionGUID="9bdf8313-c175-447a-bc90-397ecd4013fd" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:46:34.010" UserId="7531" Text="Let's discuss on the parts of my friend's new PC build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8501" RevisionGUID="9bdf8313-c175-447a-bc90-397ecd4013fd" CreationDate="2017-12-06T12:46:34.010" UserId="7531" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26988" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8476" RevisionGUID="8d4654cf-9542-4feb-becd-3d0ca693fc80" CreationDate="2017-12-06T14:28:26.443" UserId="7440" Comment="Added PCI Express ports." Text="I have a _Dell Inspiron 7720_ laptop for a few years and I would like to **buy an SSD disk** for it. Currently, I have an SSD disk used as a cache for HDD disk (using _Intel Rapid Storage_). I want to remove the current SSD disk, use the new one as a **system boot disk** and the HDD as a data disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I stopped following new hardware a few years back, I'm not sure what to buy. I don't want you to suggest any particular model, rather just what technology and interface to choose. I want to buy the **best possible** but, of course, my laptop has to be able to use it (e.g. I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- motherboard: Dell 072P0M (**Intel Ivy Bridge chipset** with **Intel HM77 southbridge**)&#xD;&#xA;- 2 regular **SATA ports revision 3.0** (i.e. 6 Gb/s), 1 empty (other one used by the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;- **mSATA port** (used by the SSD which is in RAID with the HDD)&#xD;&#xA;- **4x PCI Express x1 ports** (it looks like only 2 are currently used (ethernet and wireless cards), although I don't know if there's any connector available inside)&#xD;&#xA;- **1x PCI Express x4 port** (it doesn't look it used but I don't know if there's any connector available inside)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what to buy? It most likely doesn't have an _M.2_ interface so _SATA_ is the only option I guess. Is there any (performance) difference between _SATA_ and _mSATA_ or is it just a different form factor? It looks that _Inspiron 7720_ cannot boot from the _mSATA_ (there's some weird workaround but probably better not choose it, see [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/t/19514482), [this](http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/p/19490832/21023607) or [this](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/inspiron-7720-os-on-the-msata-drive.691645/)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some _SATA III_ SSD like _Samsung 850 Pro_ (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or is there any possibility to use any of those PCI Express ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26989" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8502" RevisionGUID="445df6cc-f6a7-45e5-a526-23a414a0c1d6" CreationDate="2017-12-06T17:52:03.217" UserId="7532" Text="I am using an Arduino Uno R3 to control my Christmas lights (a strand of 665 WS2812B LEDs).The Arduino, while driving the LEDs, is not accessible from my PC, so I am attempting to use a Raspberry Pi 3 with VNC installed to control it remotely, and update the Arduino code on demand. I planned to use the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins to run a series of sensors. However, I am experiencing issues when compiling code from the Raspberry Pi and I am just a few bytes short on the Arduino's SRAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Raspberry Pi is incapable of running the WS2812B strand due to its strict timing. In a different project, I used the Raspberry Pi to drive a LPD8806 strand directly but that strand was out of budget for this project. I already have 665 WS2812B LEDs wired in a single strand and mounted on my house. My problem is that the last 15 LEDs are not working and I cannot reliably change the light pattern remotely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good Microcontroller or SBC that could either replace the Arduino Uno and be controlled by the Pi or could replace both? The solution needs to be able to drive a continuous strand of 700 WS2812B LEDs, be controlled over a network, and run off of a 5V power supply. Preferably, this solution would have enough resources to also measure a series of sensors over GPIO pins, and be cheap. All of the alternatives I have found either lack some functionality, or are far more expensive than my current setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26990" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8502" RevisionGUID="445df6cc-f6a7-45e5-a526-23a414a0c1d6" CreationDate="2017-12-06T17:52:03.217" UserId="7532" Text="Budget Microcontroller for large WS2812B strand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26991" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8502" RevisionGUID="445df6cc-f6a7-45e5-a526-23a414a0c1d6" CreationDate="2017-12-06T17:52:03.217" UserId="7532" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26992" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="a0feef6a-4906-4b48-a3e8-6de61f8bebb9" CreationDate="2017-12-06T18:01:32.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26993" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="896efe1b-dfed-4cba-bbe2-03720ced83c3" CreationDate="2017-12-06T19:09:29.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26994" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8501" RevisionGUID="6f459ec6-f180-42e8-bedb-b3693f8f85ba" CreationDate="2017-12-06T19:53:31.250" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="26995" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="942a5003-c2b8-4f60-aa8a-31dd404127f3" CreationDate="2017-12-06T20:09:30.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="26996" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="1b55ee57-e987-4849-943a-577637607439" CreationDate="2017-12-06T23:09:36.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27004" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8504" RevisionGUID="57ced80f-886c-449b-95c7-6bd482f653e7" CreationDate="2017-12-07T05:48:24.710" UserId="7044" Text="A Google search for **Redshift Vray** takes me here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cgdirector.com/best-hardware-for-gpu-rendering-in-octane-redshift-vray/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quote:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*To use Octane and Redshift you will need a GPU that has CUDA-Cores, meaning you will need a NVIDIA GPU. VRAY-RT additionally supports openCL meaning you could use an AMD card here.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*The best bang-for-the-buck NVIDIA cards are 1070 GTX (1920 Cuda Cores, 8GB VRAM), 1080 GTX (2560 Cuda Cores, 8GB VRAM) and the 1080 Ti (3584 Cuda Cores, 11GB VRAM).*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a &quot;mobile workstation&quot;, the ideal choice is going to be something expensive with dual GPUs, typically referred to as SLI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are serious about high GPU performance, you will go with a heavy luggable beast of a gaming laptop with two full-size desktop 1080 GTX or TI GPUs crammed into it, rather than the low power mobile (xxxM) versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will likely cost you more than US$2500 for the laptop, and it won't be a small sleek device, but huge, thick, and heavy, with large air vents all across the back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many examples to choose from, just do a search of your favorite web commerce site for **laptop GTX 1080 SLI**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27005" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8505" RevisionGUID="d6c81ac0-d875-40ae-9230-dcd4866f744a" CreationDate="2017-12-07T06:14:15.983" UserId="7044" Text="I have no specific brand to recommend, but I have a comment on laptop component failure..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the main causes of laptop death is the eventual failure of the video cable that passes from the lower case body into the upper lid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In most laptops this is a tiny cable approximately 1-2mm in diameter with about 20 individual hair-sized conductors crammed inside it, that passes through the middle of one of the hinges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every time you open or close the lid, you axially twist these conductors, and after twisting and untwisting about 300-500 times they are going break. The screen will now intermittently flicker on and off as the broken wires occasionally touch or separate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want long life for a laptop, you will seek out this replacement video hinge cable when the laptop is new and buy about four of them for future use, to be installed every 3 years or so, when the cable wears out and the tiny wires break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Getting ahold of this cable as a spare part may be rather difficult, as it may not be available unless you directly contact an authorized warranty repair center that can obtain these repair parts direct from the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried in the past to do this with some of the higher end gaming laptops as these have potential future lifespans measured in decades, and the failure to be able to buy video hinge cable spares ended my interest in that gaming laptop brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the laptop is 4+ years old and out of production you will definitely not find this part new anywhere because it is custom for every laptop and there is no generic-fit replacement. But perhaps you might find it used, with some 200 flexes already in it, and a short remaining life ahead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an exception to this which I saw in the IBM Thinkpad z60M laptop, where instead of the tiny hairlike hidden-hinge cable, IBM instead used a flat flexible yellow-orange ribbon cable about 30cm wide, from the body to the lid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This ribbon cable is exceptionally durable, and the laptops reached 10+ years of age with none of the display ribbon cables ever failing to my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not know if this flat orange ribbon video cable design has been carried forward to any of the Lenovo brand Thinkpads." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27006" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8492" RevisionGUID="2bc23c65-38ea-43be-94e2-d2ec77c1e2f0" CreationDate="2017-12-07T09:40:42.420" UserId="7493" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I think you should try the [Razer Blade Pro 4K gaming laptop][1] it is perfect for development. It uses the 7th generation core i7 CPU. It has 2.9GHz speed, with a 3.9GHz Turbo and 4.3GHz over-clock potential. It has Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 GPU with 8GB of VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://toptechreview.tech/best-17-inch-laptop/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GPCu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8502" RevisionGUID="f9bd312b-c1fb-47f4-be16-e0b9409d37c5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T13:18:48.973" UserId="7532" Comment="Considering Teensy++ 2.0" Text="I am using an Arduino Uno R3 to control my Christmas lights (a strand of 665 WS2812B LEDs).The Arduino, while driving the LEDs, is not accessible from my PC, so I am attempting to use a Raspberry Pi 3 with VNC installed to control it remotely, and update the Arduino code on demand. I planned to use the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins to run a series of sensors. However, I am experiencing issues when compiling code from the Raspberry Pi and I am just a few bytes short on the Arduino's SRAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Raspberry Pi is incapable of running the WS2812B strand due to its strict timing. In a different project, I used the Raspberry Pi to drive a LPD8806 strand directly but that strand was out of budget for this project. I already have 665 WS2812B LEDs wired in a single strand and mounted on my house. My problem is that the last 15 LEDs are not working and I cannot reliably change the light pattern remotely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good Microcontroller or SBC that could either replace the Arduino Uno and be controlled by the Pi or could replace both? The solution needs to be able to drive a continuous strand of 700 WS2812B LEDs, be controlled over a network, and run off of a 5V power supply. Preferably, this solution would have enough resources to also measure a series of sensors over GPIO pins, and be cheap. All of the alternatives I have found either lack some functionality, or are far more expensive than my current setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Edit: The Teensy++ 2.0 is the only 5V board I could find that has more RAM than the Arduino Uno, without getting more expensive. I would be willing to pay more for a card that also had some networking built in. &#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if the Teensy++ 2.0 will work with my project or know of a card that will?*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27008" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="6cf61a21-fd9a-4f23-b5ec-6d23d5673fe0" CreationDate="2017-12-07T16:18:24.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="5dc3c010-50fe-44eb-a9d0-74c070f88e0b" CreationDate="2017-12-07T18:11:17.290" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="since there's a plethora of laptops available, which **used** laptop can you recommend that meets (all of the) following requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price around 600€/700$ (or a little more, I might find one in bad optical condition or stretch my budget a bit if it's *really* worth it)&#xD;&#xA;- win 7 was preinstalled from factory&#xD;&#xA;- 16:10 screen, resolution may be as low as 1280 x 800, but higher preferred. Non-glossy display preferred, but glossy is fine&#xD;&#xA;- 13&quot; or 15&quot; if light&#xD;&#xA;- battery life at least 6h (with new battery), preferrably a battery that can be replaced by myself&#xD;&#xA;- very good keyboard (Thinkpad or Macbook pro as reference)&#xD;&#xA;- SSD, 128GB is fine&#xD;&#xA;- if ram isn't upgradable, 4GB the very least&#xD;&#xA;- i5 or better&#xD;&#xA;- reasonable trackpad. Doesn't have to be Macbook-good but also shouldn't be Thinkpad T410-terrible. Can be small though&#xD;&#xA;- cooling fan accessible for cleaning&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't need: USB 3 (or any other port besides USB 2), Webcam, dedicated gpu.. You get the picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Build quality and reliability should be good. Rather business grade than consumer. Please recommend dell laptops only if they are widely known to be very reliable as I have made only bad experiences with dell laptops. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much, I appreciate your help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8506" RevisionGUID="4439a7c0-9f02-4151-8a48-9e223ea21003" CreationDate="2017-12-08T06:35:21.300" UserId="7542" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to thank everyone who has taken the time to read and answer my questions. So I am building a computer VR-4K ready.[![Everything I got it checked red.][1]][1] https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KZjD6X I have checked everything I have gotten, only thing that is really bothering me is PSU, Tower, motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the best but I will not be overclocking, I never overclocked, not really interested unless it makes my gameplay better. Which I heard it can but still, I really want to buy these but maybe a professional can tell me otherwise. What I am looking for is to add a Samsung SSD Pro 960 1TB but maybe later in life maybe summer 2018. But for now everything I want is set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason I want PSU is because I want it to be efficient, if you think there is a cheaper one but has the same efficiency let me know link it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason I want the motherboard is because it seems to be the best and honestly the price makes me believe it is the best, but if you have a motherboard that's cheaper and does about the same, please link it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason i wanted to get the Tower was because I saw a video on youtube saying it's highly customization and it's the best tower of 2017&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but if you have a really easy to clean FULL TOWER that is better than this please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's better or just as good but cheaper, that's what is really important to me. if you can help me that would be great, the GPU is the final item I will buy, because is so expensive. but if you think the original is better than this please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjytq.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27013" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8506" RevisionGUID="4439a7c0-9f02-4151-8a48-9e223ea21003" CreationDate="2017-12-08T06:35:21.300" UserId="7542" Text="Building my 4k Ready VR Ready PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27014" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8506" RevisionGUID="4439a7c0-9f02-4151-8a48-9e223ea21003" CreationDate="2017-12-08T06:35:21.300" UserId="7542" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="72704dfe-49ea-4b18-9b6d-10408e93693d" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:40:36.233" UserId="7543" Text="&lt;p&gt;I think it is time to get a new laptop and I'm frustrated by my inability to find one that meets my researched specifications.  I'm not looking for a paper-thin ultra-high-end gaming laptop, just something upper-mid-range that can handle casual gaming, productivity applications, web browsing, and programming.  My most demanding requirement probably that I run Gentoo Linux which means A) I need hardware that supports Linux and B) I'll be recompiling software on a regular basis (which is CPU-intensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is, ideally, around $300-$600 but I'd probably be willing to splurge up to around $1 000 if I could find one that meets all or most of my requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideal laptop would be a two-in-one with (ordered by desirability- most desired first):&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; touchscreen at least- (I mean I'd like a 17&quot; really but it's impossible to find an affordable 17&quot; with a decent resolution in a laptop sporting most of the above)&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Blu-Ray BDXL writer (seemingly impossible to find at a reasonable price point, I'll probably have to be content with a dual-layer DVD writer)&#xD;&#xA;* Minumum of 8GiB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SDcard reader&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum of 1TiB hdd&#xD;&#xA;* 802.11ac Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;* 5+ hour battery life&#xD;&#xA;* Headphones jack&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Anti-virus&#xD;&#xA;* External Anti-virus&#xD;&#xA;* Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;* quad-core processor? &#xD;&#xA;* Maaaaaybe a SSD drive for the OS partitions? I've seen it recommended but it seems a somewhat expensive luxury &#xD;&#xA;* USB Type-C w/ Thunderbolt 3 (Not something I have use for at the moment, but it would future proof the laptop in case I buy Thunderbolt hardware in the future)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after searching Newegg it seems that I need to cut back but I'm not sure what compromises I need to make.  I'm especially perplexed by the CPU landscape- are quad-core CPUs twice as fast as dual core?  Why do dual-core CPUs still predominate?  Are desktop processors used in laptops now?  What's with Intel's generations and how do Intel chips compare with AMD?  Where can I find reliable CPU benchmarks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that's my story. What've you guys got?&lt;/p&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27016" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="72704dfe-49ea-4b18-9b6d-10408e93693d" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:40:36.233" UserId="7543" Text="Upper-mid-range two-in-one that can handle casual gaming, productivity applications, web browsing, and programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27017" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="72704dfe-49ea-4b18-9b6d-10408e93693d" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:40:36.233" UserId="7543" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8508" RevisionGUID="3838fcc2-5be1-4f9a-b566-019e1251590c" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:43:57.047" UserId="5581" Text="I am looking for a thermo printer that can print on A4-wide thermo paper (rolls, like FAX-rolls) and otherwise is quite small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need an inbuild battery or such, I do not need any wireless data transfer (and I in fact do need some kind of wired data transfer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very small ones I only find Brother [PJ-622][1] and PJ-623 for under 200 EUR. Aren't there more? Maybe (very) old models? In fact, it's just a telefac without all the telephony stuff ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.heise.de/preisvergleich/brother-pocketjet-pj-622-pj622z1-a633851.html?plz=&amp;t=v&amp;va=b&amp;vl=de&amp;hloc=at&amp;hloc=de&amp;hloc=pl&amp;hloc=uk&amp;hloc=eu&amp;v=e#filterform%20Brother%20PJ-622" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8508" RevisionGUID="3838fcc2-5be1-4f9a-b566-019e1251590c" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:43:57.047" UserId="5581" Text="Looking for an A4-wide cabled portable thermal direct printer, can be old" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8508" RevisionGUID="3838fcc2-5be1-4f9a-b566-019e1251590c" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:43:57.047" UserId="5581" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27021" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8506" RevisionGUID="397561e0-fb47-46d6-b475-61e89fa199d6" CreationDate="2017-12-08T14:46:17.183" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27022" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="6b2d29e8-5b99-45ff-8878-8ef4f43ed8ec" CreationDate="2017-12-08T15:26:35.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27032" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8510" RevisionGUID="a7229346-21c8-429d-82ab-23dbb00c2556" CreationDate="2017-12-09T02:52:44.320" UserId="7548" Text="I have a motherboard here that won't complete POST. Stripped it down to just CPU, MB, 1 DDR4 chip. The old board had a bent pin which I did not notice until after I broke it down when POST was failing, so I got a new MB, but same issue. Many are saying it needs a BIOS update. If so, is it even possible to update the BIOS? I have a USB with BIOS files on it here. Is it possible the CPU got hosed being set into a bent pin? &#xA;&#xA;MB: Gigabyte Aorus X299 gaming 7&#xA;CPU: Intel i9 7900x&#xA;RAM: Ballistix Sport LT DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200)&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27033" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8510" RevisionGUID="a7229346-21c8-429d-82ab-23dbb00c2556" CreationDate="2017-12-09T02:52:44.320" UserId="7548" Text="Is it possible to flash MB BIOS pre CPU POST?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27034" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8510" RevisionGUID="a7229346-21c8-429d-82ab-23dbb00c2556" CreationDate="2017-12-09T02:52:44.320" UserId="7548" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27035" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="d0d507ae-d2cf-42d3-a036-5f5b3987f3f1" CreationDate="2017-12-09T11:37:14.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27036" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8510" RevisionGUID="5559ac28-9335-4dad-9e1a-e11481f2f46c" CreationDate="2017-12-09T14:30:51.440" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="d4d12178-668b-4ca7-869b-75fc7910fd51" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:22:24.920" UserId="7549" Text="Are there &quot;cables&quot; that are just 2 bluetooth dongles that will interact with each other? I am looking for one for a custom mechanical keyboard. USB type c would be the best, but I think anything would do. Thanks! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27038" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="d4d12178-668b-4ca7-869b-75fc7910fd51" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:22:24.920" UserId="7549" Text="Do wireless cables exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27039" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="d4d12178-668b-4ca7-869b-75fc7910fd51" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:22:24.920" UserId="7549" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27040" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8512" RevisionGUID="a5597880-dac4-4429-8158-928227a807f5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:32:30.463" UserId="853" Text="I am planning to buy a laptop . I have selected two . [One has a 8th generation 1.80GHz core i7 processor][1]  and [other has 7th generation 2.70 Ghz core i7 processor][2]  . Shall I emphasize on clock speed of generation ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ryanscomputers.com/asus-s510un-intel-intel-core-i7-8550u-1-80ghz-8gb-ddr4-128gb-ssd-1tb-radeon-mx150-2gb-graphics-15-6-inch-win-10-home-gold-metal-notebook.html#tab-product-view2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ryanscomputers.com/asus-k401uq-intel-core-i7-14-inch-gray-metal-notebook.html#tab-product-view2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27041" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8512" RevisionGUID="a5597880-dac4-4429-8158-928227a807f5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:32:30.463" UserId="853" Text="What processor should I choose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27042" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8512" RevisionGUID="a5597880-dac4-4429-8158-928227a807f5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:32:30.463" UserId="853" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27043" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="97b4e6ba-774e-49b3-8e78-ac0bf8e92bf8" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:35:28.937" UserId="7543" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="Two-in-one that can handle casual gaming, productivity applications, web browsing, and programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27044" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="97b4e6ba-774e-49b3-8e78-ac0bf8e92bf8" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:35:28.937" UserId="7543" Comment="edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8512" RevisionGUID="dacd98b7-0a66-4cad-9377-7100c134fac1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T15:42:55.697" UserId="853" Comment="added 140 characters in body" Text="I am planning to buy a laptop . I have selected two . [One has a 8th generation 1.80GHz core i7 processor][1]  and [other has 7th generation 2.70 Ghz core i7 processor][2]  . Shall I emphasize on clock speed or generation ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xA;&#xA;I am going to use linux os . Most of the time I will work on android studio and py charm and spyder for machine learning stuff. &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ryanscomputers.com/asus-s510un-intel-intel-core-i7-8550u-1-80ghz-8gb-ddr4-128gb-ssd-1tb-radeon-mx150-2gb-graphics-15-6-inch-win-10-home-gold-metal-notebook.html#tab-product-view2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ryanscomputers.com/asus-k401uq-intel-core-i7-14-inch-gray-metal-notebook.html#tab-product-view2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8513" RevisionGUID="d1c30342-f831-4440-9037-eb39b08ae5e1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T17:49:57.950" UserId="7553" Text="__Background__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering a [4k monitor with 120Hz support][1] that uses two DP1.2 connectors; they each render half the screen at 120hz, it's effectively two monitors glued together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;__Question__&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For gaming, would I see a performance benefit from using a dedicated GPU for each half of the screen? I'm not sure how this'd work under DX11 or 12.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.zisworks.com/shop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27049" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8513" RevisionGUID="d1c30342-f831-4440-9037-eb39b08ae5e1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T17:49:57.950" UserId="7553" Text="Dual GPUs for dual monitors, benefits?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27050" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8513" RevisionGUID="d1c30342-f831-4440-9037-eb39b08ae5e1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T17:49:57.950" UserId="7553" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27051" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="8a78cf38-29b0-4300-a237-ade93b8da68e" CreationDate="2017-12-10T18:15:28.763" UserId="-1" />
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  <row Id="27053" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="40622ce2-afce-49f0-8b10-9ec9af20f082" CreationDate="2017-12-10T20:18:29.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27054" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6164" RevisionGUID="90d94e0d-4558-4a15-89f0-695c08422926" CreationDate="2017-12-10T22:22:33.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="e4b39761-9235-4590-853a-c765173333a3" CreationDate="2017-12-10T23:07:21.640" UserId="7543" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="&lt;p&gt;I think it is time to get a new laptop and I'm frustrated by my inability to find one that meets my researched specifications.  I'm not looking for a paper-thin ultra-high-end gaming laptop, just something upper-mid-range that can handle casual gaming, productivity applications, web browsing, and programming.  My most demanding requirement probably that I run Gentoo Linux which means A) I need hardware that supports Linux and B) I'll be recompiling software on a regular basis (which is CPU-intensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is, ideally, around $300-$600 but I'd probably be willing to splurge up to around $1 000 if I could find one that meets all or most of my requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideal laptop would be a two-in-one with (ordered by desirability- most desired first):&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; touchscreen at least- (I mean I'd like a 17&quot; really but it's impossible to find an affordable 17&quot; with a decent resolution in a laptop sporting most of the above)&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Blu-Ray BDXL writer (seemingly impossible to find at a reasonable price point, I'll probably have to be content with a dual-layer DVD writer)&#xD;&#xA;* Minumum of 8GiB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;* SDcard reader&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum of 1TiB hdd&#xD;&#xA;* 802.11ac Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;* 5+ hour battery life&#xD;&#xA;* Headphones jack&#xD;&#xA;* Conventional anti-virus program&#xD;&#xA;* Bootable Anti-malware device&#xD;&#xA;* Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;* quad-core processor? &#xD;&#xA;* Maaaaaybe a SSD drive for the OS partitions? I've seen it recommended but it seems a somewhat expensive luxury &#xD;&#xA;* USB Type-C w/ Thunderbolt 3 (Not something I have use for at the moment, but it would future proof the laptop and allow me to buy Thunderbolt hardware in the future)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after searching Newegg it seems that I need to cut back but I'm not sure what compromises I need to make.  I'm especially perplexed by the CPU landscape- are quad-core CPUs twice as fast as dual core?  Why do dual-core CPUs still predominate?  Are desktop processors used in laptops now?  What's with Intel's generations and how do Intel chips compare with AMD?  Where can I find reliable CPU benchmarks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that's my story. What've you guys got?&lt;/p&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8514" RevisionGUID="c8fb0f7b-2d12-458e-80e4-e6762eaae30f" CreationDate="2017-12-11T01:50:03.643" UserId="7555" Text="I have these parts, but I am lost because I'm not sure what kind of PSU I need. For the voltage, I can be safe and get a high one, but for the cables included, I don't know what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. ASRock motherboard Motherboards Z370 PRO4&#xD;&#xA; 2. DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Cooler&#xD;&#xA; 3. Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; 4. Seagate 1TB BarraCuda SATA&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;What is the best PSU that I should get my hands on?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27057" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8514" RevisionGUID="c8fb0f7b-2d12-458e-80e4-e6762eaae30f" CreationDate="2017-12-11T01:50:03.643" UserId="7555" Text="What is PSU that I need?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27058" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8514" RevisionGUID="c8fb0f7b-2d12-458e-80e4-e6762eaae30f" CreationDate="2017-12-11T01:50:03.643" UserId="7555" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8515" RevisionGUID="82635e94-f074-420b-a128-9d25c82d3271" CreationDate="2017-12-11T03:26:07.887" UserId="24" Text="The GPUs, contrary the CPUs, are already massively parallel devices. On the CPUs, running a program simultanously on multiple ones, requires to make it parallel, which can be a significant re-factoring (and sometimes it is even impossible). On the GPUs, this problem doesn't exist: they already have *a lot* of internal processing units working parallel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the chips still have manufacturing constraints. This is improving quickly (see [Moore's Law][1]), but as we can see, there are always a newest game which requires yet another VGA card invention. :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A single GPU can handle multiple displays, it is not a problem for that since a long time. Similarly, as a CPU can run multiple programs at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't see the reason, why would it needed to have multiple GPUs for the different displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if there is the manufacturing limit, then it can be feasible. You have to compare, which is better for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Having a single, probably costlier GPU, handling both of the displays&#xD;&#xA;2. Handling the multiple displays with different GPUs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) may be too costly, or if your requirements are strong, this chip may be even not existing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moore%27s_law" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="ce77821d-d448-4439-a18f-485d6d5e2b66" CreationDate="2017-12-11T08:36:15.583" UserId="7558" Text="My motherboard Gigabyte GA-B85M has gone bad. Looking for better alternative (if possible,within the same price range)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking motherboard for Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150 and daily task involves software development &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would appreciate your quick suggestions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27063" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="ce77821d-d448-4439-a18f-485d6d5e2b66" CreationDate="2017-12-11T08:36:15.583" UserId="7558" Text="Motherboard for Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27064" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="ce77821d-d448-4439-a18f-485d6d5e2b66" CreationDate="2017-12-11T08:36:15.583" UserId="7558" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8517" RevisionGUID="44e9c504-f47d-4b29-8c8f-ce17ed477b53" CreationDate="2017-12-11T09:01:20.190" UserId="531" Text="Probably none.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're most *likely* using MST - in a very unusual fashion, similar to how [5k monitor][1]s, and the old [IBM T220 did][2]. Your graphics  card likely is aware that its &quot;one monitor with very high refresh rates, and I need to render it as seperate tiles&quot;, and I somehow suspect its rendering as 4x1080px120hz 'tiles'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm unaware of MST even working on multiple video cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, 4k60 gaming on a *single* video card is tough - so you'd want to take advantage of SLI/Crossfire or the DX12 multigpu options anyway, which still don't need you to plug in the monitor into different cards. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for regular use, I'm doubtful multiple cards are better than one card capable of presumably handling 2 or more 4k60 monitors. For gaming, you will likely need a eyewateringly powerful setup.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/845302/what-specs-must-a-graphics-card-have-to-power-a-5k-monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27066" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="4523f5c9-8694-4810-aed7-d6a47de57de7" CreationDate="2017-12-11T10:34:09.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8518" RevisionGUID="24849927-35b4-4ae4-8626-8a63d3ce351a" CreationDate="2017-12-11T11:28:54.627" UserDisplayName="user7357" Text="If you are building a PC, choosing a PSU is quite simple. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most people do not give importance to find the right PSU. But, I personally consider PSU to be a very vital part of a computer. I myself build my first PC recently and I will share with you how I chose the right PSU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Wattage:&#xD;&#xA;    The parts that you included has their own power(wattage) requirement. There are other parts of a computer that might require the power from the PSU. So, you got to make of list of all the items in your build - Processor, CPU cooler, Memory, GPU, Case fans, HDD/SDD and any other part that does not have a separate power source. To make the wattage calculation easier, I would suggest that you use [this free tool][1].&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    I would also recommend that you consider about the possibility of adding newer parts and/or upgrading certain items. &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    My build required around 300 watts of power. However, I chose a 500 watts PSU. This is because, I might include few parts in future and my power requirement might go up to 400 watts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Modular:&#xD;&#xA;    This is another major filter. Check this [link][2] to know the basic difference between non-modular, semi-modular and fully modular PSUs.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Non-modular PSUs are cheap but all the cables pre installed(which you cannot remove). Choosing this means you need to work harder on cable management so as to keep good ventilation to your case. If you have a case with a lot of free space, you can go for it. Research about your case to know better. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;    Then comes semi-modular and fully modular PSUs with limited cables and no cables pre-attached to them. Fully modular is the highest priced. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    I had the NZXT S340 elite case. This has lot of space for cable management. So, I chose a non-modular PSU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. Efficiency:&#xD;&#xA;    PSUs are rated like any other devices.  [80 Plus][3] certified PSUs are energy efficient than the ones that are non certified. &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;This table will help you with the basic difference between the 80 Plus PSUs. &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Some brand try to mislead the consumers by not mentioning the correct 80 Plus details. I would not recommend going for a 80 Plus PSU with no medal attached to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    I chose a 80 Plus Bronze as it was under my budget and because it suited my limited hours of PC usage. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Form Factor:&#xD;&#xA;   This depends on your case. If you case supports ATX form factor, choose a ATX PSU and similarly for other form factors. Research about your case to find the right form factor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   I used [PC Part Picker][5]  to check for the compatibility of the various parts of my build. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last thing, I highly recommend choosing a PSU that is meant to be sold in your country/region. This is to avoid any issues with the regulations posed for electric/electronic items.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I am not an expert, I think I have covered the basics here. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong and/or lacking information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/202798380-Full-Vs-Semi-Vs-Non-Modular-What-Are-The-Differences-&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZJYg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://pcpartpicker.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8519" RevisionGUID="463b5e73-5765-4ab5-aaca-4c53fb60a416" CreationDate="2017-12-11T12:28:35.327" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: A used board that supports VT-d if you can find one and are willing to buy used. If not, whatever board is cheapest [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&amp;s=24&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1) (currently an [MSI H81M-P33](https://www.outletpc.com/ub7585-msi-h81m-p33-intel-lga-1150-microatx-motherboard.html?utm_source=ub7585-msi-h81m-p33-intel-lga-1150-microatx-motherboard&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=MSI%2B-%2BMotherboards%20%3E%20Intel%20LGA1150)) and meets your I/O requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming you've checked and your board is out of warranty and that RMAing it isn't an option. If not, I'd recommend you go that route (though from anecdotal experience, Gigabyte is particularly poor with RMAs.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[First, let's take a look at the various chipsets for the LGA 1150 socket.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1150)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll notice that as we go down the list, the boards essentially get better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Straight away, we can probably ignore some things: since you've got a Haswell CPU (and it seems unlikely you'd upgrade to Broadwell given the high price to performance ratio compared to a newer platform), we don't care about having a _97 series board, at least for compatibility purposes. If you want to plug in an M.2 SSD without an expansion card, you'll need a _97 series board, but given you already have the rest of your system, it seems fair to ignore that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Since your CPU doesn't support overclocking](https://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz), getting a Z series board is probably unnecessary, unless you plan on upgrading to some unlocked chip in the future. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After that, the main difference is mostly I/O. Depending on your I/O requirements, it may be better to get one board. However, we'll ignore that for now, you can probably sort that out on your own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, your CPU does support one interesting technology: VT-d. Basically, it allows you to directly pass through I/O devices (like GPUs) to virtual machines with no* performance degradation. Though it's not for everyone, as a developer, this can be quite useful. *Though Wikipedia lists only Q87 boards as supporting VT-d, this is incorrect.* [For example, the ASRock H87M Pro4 supports VT-d](http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/H87M%20Pro4.pdf), as does the [B85 Pro4](http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/B85%20Pro4.pdf) However, so far, I've been unable to find an H81 board that supports VT-d.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LGA 1150 boards are new enough that there's enough stock lying around that getting a new board won't cost you too much extra while providing you with a warranty and other nice benefits... if you're willing to use a Micro ATX H81 board. This prevents you from using VT-d, and will limit both your I/O and expansion options. Buying other boards new is significantly more costly, with the cheapest ATX not-H81 board currently being a [Biostar TB85 at $75.98](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/btbkcf/biostar-tb85-atx-lga1150-motherboard-tb85), well above [what the used market is at (roughly $40.)](https://us.bidvoy.net/b85_atx/1244)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, buying used comes with its downsides. If you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest saving the money and just getting a cheap H81 board, unless you have an immediate use case for VT-d. Those used boards will still be around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As always, make sure your case will fit the board too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDnzl.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8499" RevisionGUID="3ca34f06-fb93-45d6-834d-691bf07eeac4" CreationDate="2017-12-11T13:36:52.753" UserId="7524" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to update  my servers motherboard with a newer board. The reason I'm looking to upgrade is because I'd like to be able to install a decent graphics card. I can't at the moment because the PCI port is only a x4 and I would need a x16.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not exactly sure what kind of motherboard is, but it's a Cisco Ironport s370. It used to be a network security server, but now it just sits in my basement with no use and I was going to try to upgrade it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price range, I could get anything up to $350 for a motherboard, and I already have a CPU, heatsink, and RAM that works with the server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any suggestions on what motherboard I should get, or if you can figure out what kind of motherboard it has please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I opened it opened out found out some more specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x1GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a Intel Xeon E5520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27070" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8520" RevisionGUID="4318663e-47c7-4b29-82ba-3572c19c7e44" CreationDate="2017-12-11T15:46:39.940" UserId="7561" Text="Kind of odd question, I need a base for my laptop that has to allow me to ajust its 4 legs independently. &#xD;&#xA;For example i want the project to lean forward and at the same it to the right.&#xD;&#xA;I will have to be able to adjust the height of each leg until i reach my ideal spot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you happen to know of any base like this? ( can be a laptop base ) as long as its steady.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27071" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8520" RevisionGUID="4318663e-47c7-4b29-82ba-3572c19c7e44" CreationDate="2017-12-11T15:46:39.940" UserId="7561" Text="Base for Laptop/Projector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27072" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8520" RevisionGUID="4318663e-47c7-4b29-82ba-3572c19c7e44" CreationDate="2017-12-11T15:46:39.940" UserId="7561" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27073" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8499" RevisionGUID="9724a4de-923c-4b7d-a837-421724fdec0a" CreationDate="2017-12-11T16:14:59.540" UserId="7524" Comment="Corrected title" Text="What motherboard should I get to upgrade my Cisco Ironport s360s motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27074" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="716" RevisionGUID="2f94165b-dc87-48eb-b1ea-5f29650f8d82" CreationDate="2017-12-11T18:35:01.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27075" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="6d392950-cc5c-4597-b7f5-0c2f815b40e1" CreationDate="2017-12-11T19:35:20.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27077" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="87f52d55-b538-4be0-a1ff-b7f48f95c44a" CreationDate="2017-12-11T19:59:47.440" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="1700ad51-83fb-4f17-9f1a-fc0d5dae5662" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:01:04.820" UserId="7563" Text="My brother wants to build a PC mainly for amateur (raw) photo editing in Lightroom/Gimp and video editing in Davinci Resolve. Currently lightroom is painfully slow on his old T520 thinkpad and Resolve wont even start. The goal is to get those applications running well enough for hobby projects (short 1080p Videos, etc.) without spending too much money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The recommendations for Davinci Resolve are mostly a GPU with 2GB ram, since most the calculations are done on CUDA, and 16 GB of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have so far settled on the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GTX 1050 TI&#xD;&#xA;- 16 GB ram (DDR3/DDR4? Depends on the choice of the CPU I guess)&#xD;&#xA;- SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big question is which CPU. The market looks pretty confusing to me, and I also don't really know what specs we *need*. We went through some benchmark lists and found the following ones to look interesting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Intel Pentium G4560** (~68€):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 Cores (+ HT), 3.5 GHz, DDR4-2400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**AMD A10-7870K** (~110€):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 Cores (no HT), 3.9 GHz, DDR3-2133&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**AMD FX-8350** (~103€):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 Cores (no HT), 4.0GHz, DDR3-1866&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like the last two (especially the FX) are older higher-end models. I know cores and GHz isn't everything, but I have no idea which one is ultimately faster (is AMD still considered the *less efficient* architecture?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first two have an internal GPU, since we have the 1050 Ti this is not required but I guess it doesn't hurt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe important: the Pentium has hardware support for encoding/decoding of different codecs like h264, jpeg, etc. Not sure if Lightroom and Resolve make use of that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please recommend me a good CPU? Of course, if none of the above is a good choice, a different one is ok too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Fun fact: last time I build a pc it had an Athlon XP 2800+ and 1gb of ram, I think a lot has changed since...)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27079" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="1700ad51-83fb-4f17-9f1a-fc0d5dae5662" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:01:04.820" UserId="7563" Text="CPU for a budget photo/video editing machine (Lightroom, Davinci Resolve)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27080" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="1700ad51-83fb-4f17-9f1a-fc0d5dae5662" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:01:04.820" UserId="7563" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8522" RevisionGUID="e886d10a-df45-4740-8418-6f911ba44ba9" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:24:04.683" UserId="7560" Text="I want to change my 1080p 60 hrz low budget monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a GTX 1070 and my choice would be a 24&quot; 1080p 144hrz with g sync, for a dual screen. Using the old one for web browsing. &#xD;&#xA;I think with 27&quot; 1440p 144 hrz I won't reach 100+ fps on AAA games with high settings, so it's pretty much useless. Am I right? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other question : if I want to upgrade my graphic card in the next years, would another 1070 for an SLI work better than a single Gtx 1080? And what about 1080ti?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My specs :&#xD;&#xA;Intel 6700k OC&#xD;&#xA;Asus maximus VIII hero&#xD;&#xA;Corsair vengeance 2x8 GB 3000 OC&#xD;&#xA;Corsair hydro h115i &#xD;&#xA;Evga gtx 1070 SC gaming 3.0 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27082" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8522" RevisionGUID="e886d10a-df45-4740-8418-6f911ba44ba9" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:24:04.683" UserId="7560" Text="Best monitor for a gtx 1070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27083" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8522" RevisionGUID="e886d10a-df45-4740-8418-6f911ba44ba9" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:24:04.683" UserId="7560" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8514" RevisionGUID="dda571e5-dc75-443f-86f7-259dc582504d" CreationDate="2017-12-11T23:50:52.743" UserId="7555" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="I have these parts, but I am lost because I'm not sure what kind of PSU I need. For the voltage, I can be safe and get a high one, but for the cables included, I don't know what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. ASRock motherboard Motherboards Z370 PRO4&#xD;&#xA; 2. DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Cooler&#xD;&#xA; 3. Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; 4. Seagate 1TB BarraCuda SATA&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;What is the best PSU that I should get my hands on?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have calculated that I need 330w, but to be safe I'll go for 500-550 not higher because i am on a budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="6d67e6ac-ad22-4103-9b50-a51f4d5a2edc" CreationDate="2017-12-12T06:38:47.910" UserId="7558" Comment="added 370 characters in body" Text="My motherboard Gigabyte GA-B85M has gone bad. Looking for better alternative (if possible,within the same price range)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking motherboard for Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150 and daily task involves software development &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MY existing system has following config&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1&gt;  SSD - 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2&gt; DVDROM - 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3&gt; SATA - 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4&gt; RAM - 1 chip - 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5&gt; Wireless Kbd/ Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6&gt; D/HDMI display port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need max 6 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No plan for expansions in the future**&#xD;&#xA;If any specific mbd with good price to performance ratio which give performance boost for software development or else descent mbd within ~ 70$ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would appreciate your quick suggestions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="e41c60a8-73eb-4c1b-80c5-5ac6d40de749" CreationDate="2017-12-12T12:11:41.637" UserId="3663" Text="I'm looking for a 21&quot; (or larger) monitor to use with my work laptop when working from home. I work with excel, word and some statistics packages (like STATA or SAS) mostly. I'm not a gamer so won't use it for that (Football Manager is the only thing I play these days and that's a glorified spreadsheet). Ideally I'd get something for around the £100 mark, but I don't know whether that's realistic? Does anyone have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="e41c60a8-73eb-4c1b-80c5-5ac6d40de749" CreationDate="2017-12-12T12:11:41.637" UserId="3663" Text="21&quot; monitor recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="e41c60a8-73eb-4c1b-80c5-5ac6d40de749" CreationDate="2017-12-12T12:11:41.637" UserId="3663" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8508" RevisionGUID="30480dc2-22ca-4ff1-b939-bcbf3b640ad3" CreationDate="2017-12-12T13:57:19.517" UserId="5581" Comment="Spelling correction." Text="I am looking for a thermo printer that can print on A4-wide thermo paper (rolls, like FAX-rolls) and otherwise is quite small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need an inbuild battery or such, I do not need any wireless data transfer (and I in fact do need some kind of wired data transfer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very small ones I only find Brother [PJ-622][1] and PJ-623 for under 200 EUR. Aren't there more? Maybe (very) old models? In fact, it's just a telefax without all the telephony stuff ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.heise.de/preisvergleich/brother-pocketjet-pj-622-pj622z1-a633851.html?plz=&amp;t=v&amp;va=b&amp;vl=de&amp;hloc=at&amp;hloc=de&amp;hloc=pl&amp;hloc=uk&amp;hloc=eu&amp;v=e#filterform%20Brother%20PJ-622" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8525" RevisionGUID="a93d85c2-1497-4491-8ea6-89c2b89d3fe6" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:33:14.730" UserId="7567" Text="**Use Case**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an application where I need to write a lot of data continuously (several GB/day).  It needs to fit in a very small package.  It will be deployed in very remote places. It will not be easily serviceable and therefore must be reliable.  A tiny USB flash drive would be perfect, but...  USB Drives typically have a short lifespan if you are writing constantly.  Speed is not critical (normal flash write/read speeds are fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: Does anyone make a USB thumb-drive that is designed specifically for significantly increased write longevity?  My ideal would be something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small (no bigger than a couple inches long when sticking out of the USB port. Preferably even smaller (like a stubby drive).&#xD;&#xA; - SLC NAND for basic longevity (100,000 write cycles MTTF is typical).&#xD;&#xA; - Has a large section of unmapped storage cells that can get mapped in when cells fail (similar to SSD failed-cell mapping techniques).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried every combination of search terms I can think of in Google and have found nothing.  Maybe it's just my Google-Fu is failing me? Does this even exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks ahead of time!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8525" RevisionGUID="a93d85c2-1497-4491-8ea6-89c2b89d3fe6" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:33:14.730" UserId="7567" Text="Looking for write-hardened USB with high longevity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8525" RevisionGUID="a93d85c2-1497-4491-8ea6-89c2b89d3fe6" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:33:14.730" UserId="7567" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="d1eedf80-5ec1-4fd5-9e74-84c6f898bb5e" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:35:24.507" UserId="60" Comment="Cleaned up the question and added bullet points" Text="My Gigabyte GA-B85M motherboard has gone bad. Looking for a better alternative (if possible, around $70).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a motherboard that supports Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150 and daily task involves software development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My existing system has following config:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1 SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 1 DVDROM&#xD;&#xA;- 1 SATA&#xD;&#xA;- 1 RAM chip - 4GB&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless Keyboard/Mouse&#xD;&#xA;- D/HDMI display port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need max 6 USB ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No plan for expansions in the future**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer a motherboard with a good price-to-performance ratio which gives a performance boost for software development, but any descent motherboard will work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27098" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8516" RevisionGUID="8154c30d-774d-45f3-8277-9b3a7766ca04" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:35:24.667" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8525" RevisionGUID="1b734ac0-fdad-4d37-9727-f9a67c593f6c" CreationDate="2017-12-12T17:00:54.737" UserId="7567" Comment="added 178 characters in body" Text="**Use Case**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an application where I need to write a lot of data continuously (several GB/day).  It needs to fit in a very small package.  It will be deployed in very remote places. It will not be easily serviceable and therefore must be reliable.  A tiny USB flash drive would be perfect, but...  USB Drives typically have a short lifespan if you are writing constantly.  Speed is not critical (normal flash write/read speeds are fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: Does anyone make a USB thumb-drive that is designed specifically for significantly increased write longevity?  My ideal would be something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small (no bigger than a couple inches long when sticking out of the USB port. Preferably even smaller (like a stubby drive).&#xD;&#xA; - SLC NAND for basic longevity (100,000 write cycles MTTF is typical).&#xD;&#xA; - Has write-leveling/spreading to keep from overwriting the same cells too often.&#xD;&#xA; - Has a large section of unmapped storage cells that can get mapped in when cells fail (similar to SSD failed-cell mapping techniques).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially what I'm looking for is SSD longevity tech in a small USB thumb-drive package. &#xD;&#xA; I have tried every combination of search terms I can think of in Google and have found nothing.  Maybe it's just my Google-Fu is failing me? Does this even exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks ahead of time!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27100" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8520" RevisionGUID="c8979ff2-8a98-42c4-ae39-40795ad64f9c" CreationDate="2017-12-12T18:48:22.323" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27101" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8519" RevisionGUID="23e07553-ecef-46be-8e8b-709920fee57b" CreationDate="2017-12-12T19:22:21.600" UserId="7556" Comment="Edited to reflect more specific requirements from OP" Text="# TL;DR: A used board that supports VT-d if you can find one and are willing to buy used. If not, whatever board is cheapest [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&amp;s=24&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1) and meets your I/O requirements (currently an [ASRock H81M-HDS R2.0](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157673&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=) looks like the best option.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming you've checked and your board is out of warranty and that RMAing it isn't an option. If not, I'd recommend you go that route (though from anecdotal experience, Gigabyte is particularly poor with RMAs.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[First, let's take a look at the various chipsets for the LGA 1150 socket.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1150)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll notice that as we go down the list, the boards essentially get better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Straight away, we can ignore some things: since you've got a Haswell CPU with no plans to upgrade, we don't care about having a _97 series board for compatibility purposes. Again, since you have no M.2 devices with no plans to upgrade, we can ignore the _97 series on that front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Since your CPU doesn't support overclocking](https://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz), and you have no plans to upgrade, getting a Z series board is unnecessary for overclocking. As such, [no motherboard will offer a performance boost](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx8rS9_vNDo), assuming it supports your RAM speed, which–based on the tier of the rest of the system–I'm assuming isn't particularly high, and is likely supported by all motherboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After that, the main difference is mostly I/O. Your requirements are quite low, and any board at all will fit these requirements (at least 2 SATA 3 ports and one RAM slot.) You mentioned &quot;max 6 USB ports&quot;, but didn't clarify if you needed USB 3 on those ports, nor how many were provided by the case. I'll assume for now that 2 USB 3 ports, 4 USB 2 ports, and one USB 2 header is enough, which puts almost any motherboard on the list. I'm also going to assume you want an HDMI port on the motherboard, and that you'd prefer not to get a ([relatively inexpensive](https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1513104926&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=dvi+to+hdmi)) passive DVI to HDMI adapter. You also mentioned wireless keyboard/mouse, but since your current board doesn't have built-in Bluetooth, I'll assume you already have some solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, your CPU does support one interesting technology: VT-d. Basically, it allows you to directly pass through I/O devices (like GPUs) to virtual machines with no* performance degradation. Though it's not for everyone, as a developer, this can be quite useful. *Though Wikipedia lists only Q87 boards as supporting VT-d, this is incorrect.* [For example, the ASRock H87M Pro4 supports VT-d](http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/H87M%20Pro4.pdf), as does the [B85 Pro4](http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/B85%20Pro4.pdf). However, so far, I've been unable to find an H81 board that supports VT-d.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LGA 1150 boards are new enough that there's enough stock lying around that getting a new board won't cost you too much extra while providing you with a warranty and other nice benefits... if you're willing to use a Micro ATX H81 board. This prevents you from using VT-d, and will limit both your I/O and expansion options. Buying other boards new is significantly more costly, with the cheapest not-H81 board currently being a [ECS B85H3-M at $63.32](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5YK6MK/?tag=pcpapi-20) ([though it appears to lack VT-d](https://d2caf01sdkyx7e.cloudfront.net/dlfileecs/manual/mb/B85H3-M/B85H3-M_MANUAL_V1.0.pdf?Policy=eyJTdGF0ZW1lbnQiOiBbeyJSZXNvdXJjZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vZDJjYWYwMXNka3l4N2UuY2xvdWRmcm9udC5uZXQvZGxmaWxlZWNzL21hbnVhbC9tYi9CODVIMy1NL0I4NUgzLU1fTUFOVUFMX1YxLjAucGRmIiwiQ29uZGl0aW9uIjp7IkRhdGVMZXNzVGhhbiI6eyJBV1M6RXBvY2hUaW1lIjoxNTEzMTA2NzgzfSwiSXBBZGRyZXNzIjp7IkFXUzpTb3VyY2VJcCI6IjAuMC4wLjAvMCJ9fX1dfQ__&amp;Signature=KNSk2A34S79ohw9s3cPhzcBSna7EjNBppMkcxHfZss48FBL~UzzHNwAYWU6DQnJ8n6u5TBE6bnBRow-tttDFkvIp0udLbt0w8MzrukcAB051~dffUFtGMhMte5OCZDMSFzetpTDvOrBbQtll~B2AjKefEieIi1ib4eWwrwOM~kGaSOKYxrvlTLF8PuoNUKjSkdvSIjdMCr75zkngxNMz6dbn2d0xaeC8ELzdhAnQczL~NO8JfVuzBDCiWhq~2OwG4OGFNxs0CN02nD~RCNCJrjHQh5l5NtDYfENUfU0Qy~TPJBHHSgAKz7b0TS3Rt5W13IIvRJHq-xpeUWpRmqWQxg__&amp;Key-Pair-Id=APKAILNLX4TXKMENJUMQ), defeating the main point of getting such a board), followed by the [Biostar TB85](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138436&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=) (again, [also apparently lacking VT-d](http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=734#download)), and the [Asus B85M-G R2.0 at $96.59](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gnkD4D/asus-motherboard-b85mgr20), well above [what the used market is at (roughly $40)](https://us.bidvoy.net/b85_atx/1244), while having poor to mediocre I/O selection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, buying used comes with its downsides. If you want the best value, it will also take some searching–Craigslist and eBay auctions can be a significant hassle (I couldn't find any eBay Buy It Now offers that fit your requirements and were decent value.) If you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest saving the money and just getting a cheap H81 board, unless you have an immediate use case for VT-d. Those used boards will still be around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As always, make sure your case will fit the board too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDnzl.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8526" RevisionGUID="a5609412-105b-4d4e-9b3f-6c6c6a2fb1ca" CreationDate="2017-12-12T19:35:11.777" UserId="7569" Text="Monitors are pretty standardized for plug-and-play use.  Just make sure that the resolution is compatible with your computer (i.e. not too low and not too high).  I would recommend buying one used to save money, but make sure that the seller includes a money-back guarantee and preferably has some kind of certification for refurbishment (i.e. don't buy it at a yardsale unless you trust the seller).  Well-established sellers such as Amazon.com, BestBuy.com, Walmart.com, and Staples.com are usually trustworthy to purchase refurbished monitors from.  If possible, I would recommend a clicks-to-bricks store so you can easily return it in person at a local store if there are any problems (shipping a monitor back might be difficult I think).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I actually just bought a nice 22-inch 1680*1050 monitor yesterday at my local computer shop for an amazing US$24.50.  They had smaller monitors selling for as low as US$7.00!  They are a Microsoft-certified refurbisher and all the monitors come with a 90-day guarantee.  https://www.techreup.com/ " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27103" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="36287427-2123-4f07-ae25-cee08b5c8584" CreationDate="2017-12-12T20:56:03.843" UserId="7569" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has MOLEX to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just $30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27104" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="36287427-2123-4f07-ae25-cee08b5c8584" CreationDate="2017-12-12T20:56:03.843" UserId="7569" Text="Unsupported graphics card and no USB 3 on old desktop. Should I upgrade the hardware or replace the whole PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27105" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="36287427-2123-4f07-ae25-cee08b5c8584" CreationDate="2017-12-12T20:56:03.843" UserId="7569" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27106" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="9cb1a3b9-4c3f-4479-8621-7f9ad07691b1" CreationDate="2017-12-12T21:04:53.080" UserId="7569" Comment="[Edit removed during grace period]" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has MOLEX to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just $30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="df21f548-81d5-42be-a77a-fdc576a87f6d" CreationDate="2017-12-12T21:10:07.717" UserId="7569" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has MOLEX to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/strike&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just $30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8526" RevisionGUID="1ca878c1-4d7d-4764-a988-9a5981e12a29" CreationDate="2017-12-12T21:23:47.697" UserId="7569" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="Monitors are pretty standardized for plug-and-play use.  Just make sure that the resolution is compatible with your computer (i.e. not too low and not too high).  I would recommend buying one used, to save some money, but make sure that the seller includes a money-back guarantee and preferably has some kind of certification for refurbishment (i.e. don't buy it at a yardsale unless you trust the seller).  Well-established sellers such as Amazon.com, BestBuy.com, Walmart.com, and Staples.com are usually trustworthy to purchase refurbished monitors from.  If possible, I would recommend a clicks-to-bricks store so you can easily return it in person at a local store if there are any problems (shipping a monitor back might be difficult I think).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I actually just bought a nice 22-inch 1680*1050 monitor yesterday at my local computer shop for an amazing US$24.50.  They had smaller monitors selling for as low as US$7.00!  They are a Microsoft-certified refurbisher and all the monitors come with a 90-day guarantee.  https://www.techreup.com/ " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="31321a16-596c-46bb-a8fa-e6e34fb7f245" CreationDate="2017-12-12T21:50:35.793" UserId="7569" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has MOLEX to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any major disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.  Ideally, I would like to keep the desktop PC futureproof until at least 2020 (10 years from its manufacture date).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/strike&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just $30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="ad905725-5249-4f3d-a84e-15daed8e11ff" CreationDate="2017-12-12T21:57:37.923" UserId="7569" Comment="edited body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has Molex to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any major disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.  Ideally, I would like to keep the desktop PC futureproof until at least 2020 (10 years from its manufacture date).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/strike&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just $30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8528" RevisionGUID="6b8e4be5-abb5-4ae8-9ba2-59c5d5373b3e" CreationDate="2017-12-12T22:15:54.000" UserId="7571" Text="Here's what it sounds to me like it boils down to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could buy a graphics card and power supply. One benefit of that is that, if you decide to replace your computer down the line, you can move the graphics card over and not have to pay for one again for a while. Installing a graphics card is very straightforward. Installing the power supply is pretty much straightforward, but it's a little more of a pain. I'd say that $30 is very reasonable to have someone else do this for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also buy a new computer. Here, you'd be getting the benefits of the latest hardware. Also, depending on the games you're wanting to play, integrated graphics have gotten good and you might be able to avoid buying a graphics card for a while longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I'd suggest. Since you haven't done any of this before, I'd take the specs of your current machine and your list of parts down to the computer store and ask their advice. I'd give it 100% chance they're only too happy to talk it over with you and give you tips as well. If, based on their feedback, the project seems like too much cost or effort, go with the new machine. (And consider buying it from them!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final point: I haven't looked much into your parts list but my gut feeling is that a 500W power supply is too small. I know graphics cards have gotten better but, when you're picking a power supply, you want to look at the power requirements for all your components (so basically, 250W from your current machine and 300W for the graphics card, leaving you at 550W) and then pick a power supply for which your power requirement is at 80% of the maximum rating of the supply. So you probably want a power supply that is rated for 650-700W." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="3eaed06f-1cdf-4d8d-9fc6-e3eab4200ce2" CreationDate="2017-12-12T22:46:19.100" UserId="7569" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has Molex to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any major disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.  Ideally, I would like to keep the desktop PC futureproof until at least 2020 (10 years from its manufacture date).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/strike&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just US$30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="ff6a050d-5b57-4c31-ad6a-5dd873fb6a13" CreationDate="2017-12-12T23:35:42.837" UserId="7569" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has Molex to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any major disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.  Ideally, I would like to keep the desktop PC futureproof until at least 2020 (10 years from its manufacture date).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thermaltake-smart-series-650w-bronze-power-supply-black/8733872.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/s&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just US$30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="c7fbe0ba-89f9-4006-8915-42d3003690e5" CreationDate="2017-12-12T23:43:33.413" UserId="7569" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="I have a machine license for Microsoft Windows 10 Pro on my old desktop (originally installed with Windows 7), which I got during the free-upgrade period from Microsoft.  However, when I upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I discovered that even though I could get the default Microsoft drivers for the integrated graphics, the manufacturer (AMD) did not have any proprietary Windows 10 drivers available for the old integrated graphics card, which makes it difficult to run PC games on Windows 10 that need the proprietary AMD drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since all I need to run PC games on the desktop is a supported graphics card, it would be cheaper to just buy a dedicated graphics card for the old PC (which would have much better performance than integrated graphics anyway) rather than buying a new computer altogether.  However, it looks like a new graphics card would also require a new power supply as well due to the higher power requirements.  I would also like to add USB 3.0 to the PC (it currently only has USB 2.0), which looks to be doable, especially with a new power supply that has Molex to support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is are there going to be any major disadvantages in trying to save some money by upgrading the hardware on the old PC (new power supply, new graphics card, plus a USB 3.0 card), versus simply buying a new Windows 10 desktop PC instead?  The biggest difference that I can see is that the newer desktops have PCIe 3.0 instead of PCIe 2.0, which seems to be limited to no more than 2 GB of video RAM.  So if I bought a new desktop with integrated graphics and PCIe 3.0, I could still upgrade it later to add dedicated graphics, but would not be limited to 2 GB or less of video RAM.  Ideally, I would like to keep the desktop PC futureproof until at least 2020 (10 years from its manufacture date).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than having a graphics card that is not supported on Windows 10, and not having USB 3.0, the desktop PC is a pretty good one.  It has a 3.0-GHz quadcore processor, 8 GB RAM (upgradeable to 16 GB), 1.5 TB of internal HDD storage, a LightScribe multidrive (which doesn't even exist any more, though I still have LightScribe discs that I can burn using free software), plus the available machine license for Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I upgrade the hardware, I would like to also get an HDMI UHD (4K) monitor if possible, as well as add a Blu-Ray drive on the USB 3.0, which I think should be supported.  That way I can use the desktop as a multimedia PC for Blu-Ray videos in 4K UHD.  Do you think that 4K gaming would be doable though on this PC, even with the 2 GB of dedicated graphics RAM plus the 8 GB of system RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the exact specifications on the hardware (HP p6716f):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02631315/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://support.hp.com/document/c02560084/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=1480&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the hardware I am considering adding:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thermaltake-smart-series-650w-bronze-power-supply-black/8733872.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-500w-internal-power-supply-black/4698305.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 500 watts too much power?  The new graphics card would only need 300 watts.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-nvidia-geforce-gt-710-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/4961400.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-nvidia-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-pci-express-2-0-graphics-card-black/6164149.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better though, the GeForce 710 or the GeForce 730?  They look to be very similar to me, other than the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-4-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-expansion-card/7370106.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.visiontek.com/4-port-usb-3-0-pcie-internal-card.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other upgrades I could make to the old desktop to improve performance or capabilities?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-500gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5969505.p/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a 1 TB HDD plus a 0.5 TB HDD, for 1.5 TB total.  I don't think that replacing the 0.5 TB HDD with a 0.5 TB SSD will be worth the expense though.&lt;/s&gt;  It looks like SSDs require SATA 3, so that is probably another disadvantage of sticking with the older PC that has SATA 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add also that I do not really know how to replace all these things myself.  I am assuming that I can figure it out by watching YouTube videos.  Though I do have an anti-static kit already, that I picked up a while back on clearance when RadioShack was going out of business.  Otherwise I can have it all installed at my local computer shop for just US$30 in labor cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8529" RevisionGUID="c09dd529-dd6a-4204-9e0e-19e1e2bb6555" CreationDate="2017-12-13T04:55:33.023" UserId="7572" Text="Looking to mount a screen in my car.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Able to run Windows  &#xD;&#xA;* WIFI  &#xD;&#xA;* Can run on 24 volts power supply from the car  &#xD;&#xA;* Able to sustain minor temporary voltage fluctuations  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Touch is not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27116" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8529" RevisionGUID="c09dd529-dd6a-4204-9e0e-19e1e2bb6555" CreationDate="2017-12-13T04:55:33.023" UserId="7572" Text="24 volt Windows PC with built in screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27117" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8529" RevisionGUID="c09dd529-dd6a-4204-9e0e-19e1e2bb6555" CreationDate="2017-12-13T04:55:33.023" UserId="7572" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8529" RevisionGUID="9780f26f-6c8a-4b0b-b0ab-dec277049a16" CreationDate="2017-12-13T05:30:07.487" UserId="7572" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="Looking to mount a screen with built-in PC for my car.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Able to run Windows  &#xD;&#xA;* WIFI  &#xD;&#xA;* Can run on 24 volts power supply from the car  &#xD;&#xA;* Able to sustain minor temporary voltage fluctuations  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Touch is not a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27123" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8527" RevisionGUID="fc7a57ba-8fe1-4369-9b09-6e08066adcb3" CreationDate="2017-12-13T17:05:29.840" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="716b66d5-18d6-4f80-9b66-98f3d43a5ebf" CreationDate="2017-12-13T21:35:18.953" UserId="1203" Text="My tablet no longer works. I need a replacement pretty quickly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally my new tablet will have the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&#xD;&#xA;- easily rooted&#xD;&#xA;- can run Linux&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- use it like a regular tablet to navigate when I get off the subway&#xD;&#xA;- use it like a laptop at meetups&#xD;&#xA;- pipe video to a big screen from it when presenting or demoing code&#xD;&#xA;- utilize it as a mini screen to expand my laptop's desktop size when working at home&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27125" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="716b66d5-18d6-4f80-9b66-98f3d43a5ebf" CreationDate="2017-12-13T21:35:18.953" UserId="1203" Text="Want a Dream Tablet, with data plan, rooted to run Linux distro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27126" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="716b66d5-18d6-4f80-9b66-98f3d43a5ebf" CreationDate="2017-12-13T21:35:18.953" UserId="1203" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27127" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="5313bda8-f634-46e2-aacb-efc655fd7801" CreationDate="2017-12-14T04:16:06.877" UserId="203" Comment="66" />
  <row Id="27128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8533" RevisionGUID="8aa697b1-4999-4dfe-b9bb-a4eed03d4c1e" CreationDate="2017-12-14T12:46:49.710" UserId="4786" Text="So my daily driver of 3 years, the Lenovo G50-70, is on it's last legs, and I am in the market for a new high-end laptop to replace the G50-70.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found these two laptops that fit rather nicely in the my budget of $2000. The problem I face is that I cannot decide which one to choose over the other!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the first Laptop --&gt; [Asus G701][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the second Laptop --&gt; [Asus GL702VS][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the specs of the G701&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Core i7-6820HK&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - 32GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 980M 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x 256GB SSDs in RAID 0&#xD;&#xA; - G-Sync Monitor(17.3&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Price --&gt;  $1599 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And here are the specs of the GL702VS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Core i7-7700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1070 8GB&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SSD + 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - G-Sync Monitor(17.3&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - Price --&gt; $1999 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The deciding factor for me here is price to performance. On one hand the G701 has 32GB DDR4 RAM pre-installed, with a 512GB SSD included, but sports the 980m 8GB. Where as the GL702VS sports a GTX 1070 8GB, but only has 16GB DDR4 RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What puts me off from the GL702VS is the price of the laptop alone, this doesn't allow me to buy extra addons for it later on, like say a 1TB SSD. So I am leaning towards the G701, mainly due to the fact that I will be able to buy upgrades for it at the same as purchasing the laptop altogether.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of 3D rendering for buildings and structures, as I work at a engineering firm, so the GPU is kinda important in that regard, but I also want to game at a moments notice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which laptop should I get? The G701 with the older GPU but better spec? or the GL702VS with the better GPU, but lower spec? If not either? Can you recommend me a better spec laptop with a good GPU in it, but at a better price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**On a side note**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered a GTX 1080 laptop to satisfy, as well as Quadro workstation laptops, but these are either out of my budget or are not powerful enough to both game and work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-G701VO-IH74K-17-3-Inch-i7-6820HK/dp/B01N6ZNRZ8/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1513254586&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=gtx%2B980%2Blaptops&amp;refinements=p_n_shipping_option-bin%3A3242350011&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6KLBR1/ref=twister_B0773KLGLS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27129" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8533" RevisionGUID="8aa697b1-4999-4dfe-b9bb-a4eed03d4c1e" CreationDate="2017-12-14T12:46:49.710" UserId="4786" Text="GTX 980M 8GB vs GTX 1070 8GB for a new gaming/workstation laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27130" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8533" RevisionGUID="8aa697b1-4999-4dfe-b9bb-a4eed03d4c1e" CreationDate="2017-12-14T12:46:49.710" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="03853065-17e9-4f2c-9f06-0d3c1825be8d" CreationDate="2017-12-14T13:02:38.463" UserId="7579" Text="I am choosing hardware to build a PC. The ways I want to use it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Programming C++, Qt, Compiling, deploying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Streaming how I am coding (not games)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization. Running many instances of vms or dockers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need to play games at all. That is why I do not consider discretevideo adapter. However for streaming it is needed to have nice integrated video chip. I want fastest M2 SSD and 32gb of fastest RAM The main concern is the CPU choice According to my tasks what criteria of choosing a CPU? Shall I choose AMD with many cores or stay with Intel which has better performance in games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27132" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="03853065-17e9-4f2c-9f06-0d3c1825be8d" CreationDate="2017-12-14T13:02:38.463" UserId="7579" Text="Choosing PC for Programming. Fastests C++ app build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27133" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="03853065-17e9-4f2c-9f06-0d3c1825be8d" CreationDate="2017-12-14T13:02:38.463" UserId="7579" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27135" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="870f9e7d-b57d-406b-8a6a-6b5dd17ab3fc" CreationDate="2017-12-14T17:59:47.913" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8535" RevisionGUID="44d37f44-2d6a-4976-95ff-b45e8372ec4b" CreationDate="2017-12-14T19:54:34.487" UserId="7581" Text="Try to look at for Aquaris M10 Ubuntu Edition" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8535" RevisionGUID="c6e71184-7258-4c1e-8bbe-8bdc08fa88f2" CreationDate="2017-12-14T20:14:59.000" UserId="7581" Comment="added 126 characters in body" Text="Try to look at for Aquaris M10 Ubuntu Edition&#xD;&#xA;also found Onda V80, has it running:&#xD;&#xA;https://medium.com/@tomac/installing-ubuntu-mint-linux-on-onda-820w-tablet-727747a376b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8535" RevisionGUID="6b7af1ce-9d2f-4067-bc2d-5866d6008e5d" CreationDate="2017-12-14T22:42:10.413" UserId="1203" Comment="improve English, improve the links" Text="Look at the [Aquaris M10 Ubuntu Edition][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also found [Onda V80][2] has it running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.zdnet.com/product/bq-aquaris-m10-ubuntu-edition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://medium.com/@tomac/installing-ubuntu-mint-linux-on-onda-820w-tablet-727747a376b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27139" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8535" RevisionGUID="6b7af1ce-9d2f-4067-bc2d-5866d6008e5d" CreationDate="2017-12-14T22:42:10.413" Comment="Proposed by 1203 approved by 60 edit id of 653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27140" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="cd445ab3-09be-4814-ace8-b4e1e3a3e0d5" CreationDate="2017-12-14T22:50:08.607" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27146" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8537" RevisionGUID="b9f5cb3a-03db-4f40-a7f9-c61bbc664af0" CreationDate="2017-12-15T09:35:49.783" UserId="7555" Text="Here is a good one, except that it has no Blu-Ray:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Acer Aspire E5-575-539R**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It has a core i5 7200 (only 2 cores but 4 threads)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Memory card reader (SD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. And (not sure it will suit you) DVD writer optical writer&#xD;&#xA;6. Windows 10 (But there is no antivirus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have a look at this link:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Notebooks/Notebooks/67448-NX.GE6SA.017-C77&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see full specs. It is for $729 (AUD) about 560 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8538" RevisionGUID="2bfd903a-f731-4cde-b8ad-077a583f7ecd" CreationDate="2017-12-15T09:48:46.770" UserId="7556" Text="# For maximum performance: 2x [AMD 16-core Opteron 6300-series &quot;Abu Dhabi&quot;](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_Opteron_microprocessors#Opteron_6300-series_&quot;Abu_Dhabi&quot;_(32_nm)) CPUs in an eATX board. Work down from this point according to your price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD started shipping CPUs with the TMP starting with Jaguar. AMD added support for [hardware AES](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AES_instruction_set) with Bulldozer. Because we need ECC support, we want to look at AMD's server CPUs. This gives us the following architectures on the following platforms:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Opteron 3200-series &quot;Zurich&quot; (32 nm) and Opteron 3300-series &quot;Delhi&quot; (32 nm) on Socket AM3+&#xD;&#xA; - 4x2.4 GHz to 8x3.6 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Opteron 4200-series &quot;Valencia&quot; (32 nm) and Opteron 4300-series &quot;Seoul&quot; (32 nm) on Socket C32&#xD;&#xA; - 4x2.2 GHz to 8x3.4 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Opteron 6200-series &quot;Interlagos&quot; (32 nm) and Opteron 6300-series &quot;Abu Dhabi&quot; (32 nm) on Socket G34&#xD;&#xA; - 4x3.3 GHz to 16x2.8 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 32-core monster (if you really want to stay in ATX and not a weird form factor) at this second would cost you about [$200 for the motherboard](http://r.ebay.com/PmI9Xb) and [$200 for the CPUs.](http://r.ebay.com/a3vRAI) However, because this is used server gear from several years ago (see: performance to power consumption ratio is not good), there's a good chance you can find something for a very low price, if you're willing to deal with the normal headaches of server-grade gear. Take this [HP Proliant DL385 G7 with 2x Opteron 6174 2.2ghz 12 cores, 24GB RAM, and 2x146GB SAS drives](http://r.ebay.com/p4YC2k) for $300, for example. If you can find something on Craigslist, prices are likely to be even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for performance? [Why bother with 2x the performance](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q9400+%40+2.66GHz) when you could have [over 4x?](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Opteron+6380&amp;id=2498&amp;cpuCount=2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27148" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8539" RevisionGUID="587d236c-b89e-40d7-923e-c28f75c0140b" CreationDate="2017-12-15T09:51:23.447" UserId="7555" Text="I am going to purchase an i5 8600k, and I could not find out if it comes with a fan or not. If so, should I stick with it? I want to overclock, and I have a GTX 1060 in my build. So is the standard intel CPU cooler enough or I should I get another one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27149" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8539" RevisionGUID="587d236c-b89e-40d7-923e-c28f75c0140b" CreationDate="2017-12-15T09:51:23.447" UserId="7555" Text="Should I get CPU cooler?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27150" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8539" RevisionGUID="587d236c-b89e-40d7-923e-c28f75c0140b" CreationDate="2017-12-15T09:51:23.447" UserId="7555" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27151" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8540" RevisionGUID="be3a9948-4a43-4033-a4d5-1085ad894f9e" CreationDate="2017-12-15T10:35:57.240" UserId="7556" Text="[It does not come with a cooler or thermal paste](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117825). Since the point of a K skew CPU is overclocking, you'll want a beefy cooler so you can push your CPU to the max.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-coffee-lake-core-i5-8600k-cpu,5264-11.html) ran benchmarks, and it's clear that the 8600K eats a massive amount of power, especially when overclocked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend a cooler with at least a 105W TDP. The [Cryorig H7](http://a.co/3ovD3UJ) is rated for 140W and costs only $30, but any cooler that can handle the heat should do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CY2Hk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27155" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="0884fdd8-7a5b-4f59-bd9a-a461784d6920" CreationDate="2017-12-15T14:33:26.400" UserId="60" Comment="Made this question only about the CPU" Text="I am choosing hardware to build a PC. The ways I want to use it:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Programming C++, Qt, Compiling, deploying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Streaming how I am coding (not games)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Virtualization. Running many instances of VMs or dockers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a processor. I do not need to play games at all, but streaming requires at least a nice integrated video chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the CPU to support the fastest M2 SSD and 32gb of the fastest RAM. The main concern is the CPU choice according to my tasks. Shall I choose AMD with many cores or stay with Intel, which has better single thread performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27156" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="0884fdd8-7a5b-4f59-bd9a-a461784d6920" CreationDate="2017-12-15T14:33:26.400" UserId="60" Comment="Made this question only about the CPU" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27157" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="da4128d0-52e1-4aaf-9d9a-51db137fb61f" CreationDate="2017-12-15T14:33:29.903" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27161" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="4b2f5802-a19d-4758-9835-f1df2c312563" CreationDate="2017-12-15T15:04:02.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8543" RevisionGUID="b7ad23a1-15c1-4cf5-9d15-e33beb709aeb" CreationDate="2017-12-15T15:59:40.950" UserId="7586" Text="What external USB graphic card display adapter to VGA is working with Ubuntu 14.04 LTS? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use one similar to this one: JUA210 USB 2.0 VGA Display Adapter (https://en.j5create.com/products/jua210?variant=10607890692). Any recommendation or does this one even run on Ubuntu 14.04?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27163" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8543" RevisionGUID="b7ad23a1-15c1-4cf5-9d15-e33beb709aeb" CreationDate="2017-12-15T15:59:40.950" UserId="7586" Text="External USB graphic card display adapter to VGA for Ubuntu 14.04 LTS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27164" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8543" RevisionGUID="b7ad23a1-15c1-4cf5-9d15-e33beb709aeb" CreationDate="2017-12-15T15:59:40.950" UserId="7586" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="0112a399-828c-4f92-8926-4a4f1b0732e6" CreationDate="2017-12-15T16:35:19.983" UserId="1203" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="My tablet no longer works. I need a replacement pretty quickly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally my new tablet will have the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&#xD;&#xA;- easily rooted&#xD;&#xA;- can run Linux or Android's linux&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- use it like a regular tablet to navigate when I get off the subway&#xD;&#xA;- use it like a laptop at meetups&#xD;&#xA;- pipe video to a big screen from it when presenting or demoing code&#xD;&#xA;- utilize it as a mini screen to expand my laptop's desktop size when working at home&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27166" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8539" RevisionGUID="7fd7b62c-d0a2-4fe3-9b2a-7d0b3f3eeb46" CreationDate="2017-12-15T16:43:09.103" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8544" RevisionGUID="58531dd5-81d2-445e-879a-2c273944af2d" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:31:43.837" UserId="7576" Text="Windows specifically has this annoying issue where it will not allow multiple partitions on a USB flash drive.  If you create multiple partitions, Windows will only see the first one.  Linux doesn't care, MacOS doesn't care; only Windows cares.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Some* flash drives, however, have their Removable Media Bit set, in which case Windows sees them as a removable hard drive and will work with as many partitions as you see fit to create.  I need one of these drives.  Unfortunately, this isn't a feature that gets advertised at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My efforts to Google this feature only comes up with a bunch of posts from people trying to set this feature on drives they already have (which usually involve shady hack tools from Chinese or Russian web sites).  Lexar is the only manufacturer that publishes a tool to set this bit on their drives, but it's old and it only works on some models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I once bought a SanDisk Cruzer drive that had it set but at the time I didn't care about the feature.  I've bought SanDisk drives since then that don't have it, and that one drive is too small (16GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft has a published list of their &quot;Windows-to-Go&quot; certified flash drives (which all have their RMBs set because Windows-To-Go requires it), but all of these flash drive are ridiculously expensive because of the certification.  I don't care about Windows-To-Go anyway.  I just need a drive that I can create at least 3 partitions on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know for certain a particular make/model of flash drive that has this bit set?  I'd like it to be at least 128GB, but I'd settle for a 64GB model if that's all there is." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27169" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8544" RevisionGUID="58531dd5-81d2-445e-879a-2c273944af2d" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:31:43.837" UserId="7576" Text="Looking for USB flash drive with its Removable Media Bit set" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27170" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8544" RevisionGUID="58531dd5-81d2-445e-879a-2c273944af2d" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:31:43.837" UserId="7576" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8545" RevisionGUID="52806c82-b85e-42df-a0df-7e4acd8606e4" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:33:15.690" UserId="7587" Text="I am a .net developer. I need laptop with 32GB ram with screen size 14 inch minimum.  I will have sql server 2017, Visual studio 2017. &#xD;&#xA;Does anyone has good recommendations on this? Weight should not be more than 2kg. Any recommendations on buying virtual machines than can always connect to VPN? What does this VM costs? What about Docker? I am really going crazy with search for 32GB ram. Please help" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27172" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8545" RevisionGUID="52806c82-b85e-42df-a0df-7e4acd8606e4" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:33:15.690" UserId="7587" Text="laptop with good memory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27173" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8545" RevisionGUID="52806c82-b85e-42df-a0df-7e4acd8606e4" CreationDate="2017-12-15T19:33:15.690" UserId="7587" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27174" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8539" RevisionGUID="7e7b11c1-8ff0-4bbb-9480-e5b355014635" CreationDate="2017-12-15T21:36:06.927" UserId="7555" Comment="I have edited my question to clarify that it is not too broad." Text="I want to know if I need a CPU cooler for my build. I know I do, but is the one included with my i5 8600k enough? Just note that I am on LGA1151&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. ASRock Z370 PRO4 motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Corsair Builder Series VS450, 450 Watt PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, is the CPU cooler included (if there is one I am not sure) with my CPU enough to support? Or should I get a different one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27175" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="0c8ec445-7137-468f-83ee-1d1e62911c51" CreationDate="2017-12-15T22:04:46.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27179" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="5eede082-5c10-4d1d-bf2f-6d3250722fec" CreationDate="2017-12-16T03:18:26.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8546" RevisionGUID="30040922-6e86-4b87-a6f6-567b6e6a3a10" CreationDate="2017-12-16T03:28:37.500" UserId="1921" Text="You can obviously buy 2 USB bluetooth 4 le dongles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Gets power and CPU from the computer&#xD;&#xA;2.  Gets power from batteries, but you need some kind of CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Designing your own and getting it produced will take a lot of effort and money to get a company to agree to produce said circuit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the needlessly overpowered but easy solution department.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Raspberry PI 2 (add bluetooth dongle) or 3 (built-in bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  Hook up a BIG battery &#xD;&#xA;2.  Hook the keys in the typical 11x11 or 12x12 fashion to the GPIO pins&#xD;&#xA;3.  Write some code to do the translations and connect using the standard built-in bluetooth tools.&#xD;&#xA;    In python should be very simple.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Under clock it to the max possible and disable as much as possible to increase a pitiful battery life to a usable one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8547" RevisionGUID="d6935b41-5f04-4f19-9d83-01185abff37c" CreationDate="2017-12-16T03:50:08.327" UserId="1921" Text=" 1. RAID 0 striping  useless no protection&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAID 1 mirroring   qty 2  of 1TB gets you 1TB storage&#xD;&#xA; 3. RAID 5 parity data   Requires 3 drives and give you the capacity of 2.&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAID 6 parity data(x2)   Requires 4 drives and give you the capacity of 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID 5 can handle 1 bad drive and 6 can handle 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your budget means if you do RAID 5 you will spend your entire budget on hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now what?  Well some versions of Windows has a software RAID 5 or 6, and linux offers similar including the ZFS and btrfs file systems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading will not be significantly impacted by software RAID 5 or 6.  However, writing will take a big hit in terms of CPU utilization will spike every time you write to it.  If your CPU isn't fast enough your write speed will be limited.  You will also have less CPU to run your normal programs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware solves this, but is completely out of your budget range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8547" RevisionGUID="dbb64d64-4cf3-4562-8cee-09dd03b81aa5" CreationDate="2017-12-16T03:57:13.797" UserId="1921" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text=" 1. RAID 0 striping  useless no protection&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAID 1 mirroring   qty 2  of 1TB gets you 1TB storage&#xD;&#xA; 3. RAID 5 parity data   Requires 3 drives and give you the capacity of 2.&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAID 6 parity data(x2)   Requires 4 drives and give you the capacity of 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID 5 can handle 1 bad drive and 6 can handle 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your budget means if you do RAID 5 you will spend your entire budget on hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now what?  Well some versions of Windows has a software RAID 5 or 6, and linux offers similar including the ZFS and btrfs file systems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reading will not be significantly impacted by software RAID 5 or 6.  However, writing will take a big hit in terms of CPU utilization will spike every time you write to it.  If your CPU isn't fast enough your write speed will be limited.  You will also have less CPU to run your normal programs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware RAID solves this, but is completely out of your budget range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8552" RevisionGUID="c0185c18-5901-4e8c-a2f9-d49690855e38" CreationDate="2017-12-16T11:19:58.303" UserId="203" Text="I'd recommend the [Inspiron 15 5000 2-in-1](http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/new-inspiron-15-5000/spd/inspiron-15-5579-2-in-1-laptop/cai155w10p2c008). Dell sells this for $699, but if you also buy a BD writer, it becomes more like $850.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It features the Intel Core i5-8250U, a Kaby Lake R Quad Core. With a base frequency of 1.60 GHz (cTDP-up of 1.80 GHz at 25 W, 3.4 GHz boost), it likely has only marginally lower sustained performance (and almost equal peak) than the older max performance chips, such as the 6700HQ. Even though it's an i5, it has hyperthreading enabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the cheapest 2-in-1 I could find offering Windows 10 Pro preinstalled. There are other, cheaper laptops with similar hardware, but you may have to shell out $100-200 for a Windows 10 Pro licence.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to your other requirements, unfortunately, there is no internal ODD, but the screen is 15.6&quot;, with a fairly standard 1080p IPS panel. The default configuration comes with 8 GB of RAM, 1 TB of HDD and a 802.11ac WiFi adapter with 2x2 MIMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no review of the current model, but [Notebookcheck's review](https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-15-5000-5567-1753-Notebook-Review.194950.0.html#toc-energy-management) of the previous model, with the same sized battery, shows over 7 hours of battery life when idle, and 6:57 when simultating web browsing at a screen brightness of 150 nits. However, under heavy load, the battery life is under two hours. Please note that the tested model has slightly different hardware and may not be entirely representative, but it is likely that the current model will be close to that level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a headphone jack and a 1 year subscription to McAfee, though it isn't preinstalled. Unfortunately, it does not appear to support Thunderbolt." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8553" RevisionGUID="59bd3fc9-b421-4fa9-a772-ae1e5ce177f6" CreationDate="2017-12-16T18:03:12.330" UserId="7592" Text="I’m looking to buy a printer for my UX agency, which I would ideally like to have the following features:&#xA;&#xA; 1. Auto double sided printing&#xA; 2. WiFi/Bluetooth connection&#xA; 3. Ability to print high quality documents up to A3&#xA; 4. A scanner&#xA; 5. Great quality photo finishes for poster&#xA; 6. Flyer/business card/poster printing for clients&#xA; 7. Don’t need to print a lot of pages per minute&#xA;&#xA;Any recommendations? I’ve read a few articles and initially thought that I wanted a laser printer but it seems as though inkjet is the way to go. There’s so much choice so thought I’d ask those who know" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8553" RevisionGUID="59bd3fc9-b421-4fa9-a772-ae1e5ce177f6" CreationDate="2017-12-16T18:03:12.330" UserId="7592" Text="Printers for UX designers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8553" RevisionGUID="59bd3fc9-b421-4fa9-a772-ae1e5ce177f6" CreationDate="2017-12-16T18:03:12.330" UserId="7592" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8554" RevisionGUID="7a39495d-9626-4adb-880a-d934e83ba9a0" CreationDate="2017-12-16T22:00:52.343" UserId="7555" Text="Consider this build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Intel  8th gen i5 8600k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. G.Skill Ripjaws RAM. These ones can be from 4 to 16GB in each stick, but of course more costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. A motherboard that supports overclocking (z370 PRO4 for example) and has enough RAM slots, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. GTX 1050 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Most importantly, your CPU cooler must have high TDP( like the H7) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Also, your PSU I would say should be about 600w and rated 80+ Bronze or higher. But this will be a costy build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the main parts. You can then get your own choice of case, monitor, peripherals, and LED's etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you get those parts I mentioned into a custom build, then I think you should be good with any program for at least a few years. However, because you said you don't want to play games, you might consider a less powerful GPU of your choice. In any case, I wouldn't completely go without it, just get a cheaper one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27201" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8555" RevisionGUID="1abc960b-24db-460a-88fe-42315f2176bc" CreationDate="2017-12-17T05:15:49.503" UserId="1203" Text="I asked this question here because I felt it was very difficult to find exactly what I was looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Dead Ends&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used Google. I searched Amazon, ebay, newegg, T-mobile (my wireless provider), and even Google's shopping. Then I found a site called Frequency Check that would let me search by frequency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having been given 1700/2100 bands by a guy at T-Mobile, that's what I primarily searched for - but later I was told by multiple T-Mobile sources that anything with LTE or 4G would work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, the models I was finding on Frequency Check were not showing up in my searches. It turned out that, when I could find them, they were only available on the foreign versions of sites. Out of desperation, I started to consider trying to make a purchase from a Chinese site using Google Translate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### The Holy Grail&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After much searching and wondering what I was missing (since I knew the market for this could not have completely died in the USA), I finally decided to watch some CES videos on Youtube, and then I Googled &quot;CES tablet&quot; for a rundown, and finally found what seems to be an ideal 2 in 1 tablet, the [Alcatel Plus 10][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This *still* seemed only available from non-US sources, at least directly from Alcatel's site. But then I found a new in box factory unlocked one on ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my original requirements lined up with my conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&quot; - The keyboard has LTE, and by some descriptions can provide connections for up to 15 other people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;easily rooted&quot; - well, it comes with Windows 10 home, and it is unlocked, so while I won't get the experience of rooting an android tablet... I only have so much time... and I'll have administrator access on the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;can run Linux or Android's linux&quot; - Windows 10 home should provide me with a Linux subsystem, but I'm also entirely prepared to install straight Linux on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Bluetooth&quot; - this was important because I wanted to get a clamshell keyboard, but I suppose I can do without it. However, I just checked the specs and it's supposed to be included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better&quot; - well, I suppose I can get a [bluetooth mouse now][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part about this specific model is that I couldn't easily find a seller in the US. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I scored - I managed to snag what was advertised as the last one on ebay, new in the box, unlocked, [for ~$310][3] including a 2 year warranty (which I hope not to use, and didn't mind spending less than $30 for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I was prepared to spend as much just on a tablet and more for a clamshell laptop-y case (probably another $100) I think I have found a solution that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (another of my requests).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sidenotes: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A possible competitor was the [Asus Zenpad 10, also ~$300][4], with Android and an optional dockable keyboard (noted in the early promotional material) but I could not find the optional keyboard accessory for sale anywhere- which I would expect to be pricey anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am usually reticent to buy things as complex as computers or phones on ebay, but given the difficulty of my search and my inability to find a seller through other venues, I really had no choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.alcatel-mobile.com/gb/plus-10#technical-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Windows-Tablets-910-003971/dp/B00JUHDYSO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alcatel-Plus-10-Convertible-Tablet-Windows-10-32GB-White/192075112453?epid=625706183&amp;hash=item2cb891a005:g:ujYAAOSwa~BYdRR2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ASUS-ZenPad-10-Z301MFL-10-1-inch-3GB-32GB-GSM-ONLY-UNLOCKED-Tablet-PC/362023344374?hash=item544a45d8f6:m:mgUWhkNnMi92rC4MSflnEnQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8555" RevisionGUID="09684c10-ee3f-44e1-8da8-cb33cb42f857" CreationDate="2017-12-17T05:52:10.407" UserId="1203" Comment="added 767 characters in body" Text="I asked this question here because I felt it was very difficult to find exactly what I was looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Dead Ends&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used Google. I searched Amazon, ebay, newegg, T-mobile (my wireless provider), and even Google's shopping. Then I found a site called Frequency Check that would let me search by frequency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having been given 1700/2100 bands by a guy at T-Mobile, that's what I primarily searched for - but later I was told by multiple T-Mobile sources that anything with LTE or 4G would work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, the models I was finding on Frequency Check were not showing up in my searches. It turned out that, when I could find them, they were only available on the foreign versions of sites. Out of desperation, I started to consider trying to make a purchase from a Chinese site using Google Translate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### The Holy Grail&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After much searching and wondering what I was missing (since I knew the market for this could not have completely died in the USA), I finally decided to watch some CES videos on Youtube, and then I Googled &quot;CES tablet&quot; for a rundown, and finally found what seems to be an ideal 2 in 1 tablet, the [Alcatel Plus 10][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This *still* seemed only available from non-US sources, at least directly from Alcatel's site. But then I found a new in box factory unlocked one on ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my original requirements lined up with my conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&quot; - The keyboard has LTE, and by some descriptions can provide connections for up to 15 other people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;easily rooted&quot; - well, it comes with Windows 10 home, and it is unlocked, so while I won't get the experience of rooting an android tablet... I only have so much time... and I'll have administrator access on the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;can run Linux or Android's linux&quot; - Windows 10 home should provide me with a Linux subsystem, but I'm also entirely prepared to install straight Linux on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Bluetooth&quot; - this was important because I wanted to get a clamshell keyboard, but I suppose I can do without it. However, I just checked the specs and it's supposed to be included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better&quot; - well, I suppose I can get a [bluetooth mouse now][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a regular tablet to navigate when I get off the subway&quot; - I do worry about this a bit, it's a little larger than my almost 8 inch tablet that I used to use to navigate, and google maps was an app only a few taps away, but the keyboard is supposed to include GPS - so I guess we'll see what happens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a laptop at meetups&quot; based on the form-factor, I think I can stop lugging my larger Lenovo Yoga around in a backpack now, a major improvement for my lifestyle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;pipe video to a big screen from it when presenting or demoing code&quot;  - It has HDMI mini, so I suppose I need a cable and/or an adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;utilize it as a mini screen to expand my laptop's desktop size when working at home&quot; - Still not sure how I'll do this, but I still want to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part about this specific model is that I couldn't easily find a seller in the US. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I scored - I managed to snag what was advertised as the last one on ebay, new in the box, unlocked, [for ~$310][3] including a 2 year warranty (which I hope not to use, and didn't mind spending less than $30 for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I was prepared to spend as much just on a tablet and more for a clamshell laptop-y case (probably another $100) I think I have found a solution that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (another of my requests).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sidenotes: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A possible competitor was the [Asus Zenpad 10, also ~$300][4], with Android and an optional dockable keyboard (noted in the early promotional material) but I could not find the optional keyboard accessory for sale anywhere- which I would expect to be pricey anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am usually reticent to buy things as complex as computers or phones on ebay, but given the difficulty of my search and my inability to find a seller through other venues, I really had no choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.alcatel-mobile.com/gb/plus-10#technical-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Windows-Tablets-910-003971/dp/B00JUHDYSO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alcatel-Plus-10-Convertible-Tablet-Windows-10-32GB-White/192075112453?epid=625706183&amp;hash=item2cb891a005:g:ujYAAOSwa~BYdRR2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ASUS-ZenPad-10-Z301MFL-10-1-inch-3GB-32GB-GSM-ONLY-UNLOCKED-Tablet-PC/362023344374?hash=item544a45d8f6:m:mgUWhkNnMi92rC4MSflnEnQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27204" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="9f29bb67-09be-4702-b10a-9a81502d9deb" CreationDate="2017-12-17T08:30:04.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8557" RevisionGUID="2a11d202-4dff-49e2-a1f2-409905547761" CreationDate="2017-12-17T13:51:18.067" UserId="1197" Text="Mini-ITX boards with 8 to 12 SATA connectors aren't that exotic. But what about matching cases? Basically, I am looking for something similar to the [SuperChassis 721TQ-250B][1] - but with more hot-swap drive bays. Like 10 of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.supermicro.com/products/chassis/tower/721/SC721TQ-250B" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27209" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8557" RevisionGUID="2a11d202-4dff-49e2-a1f2-409905547761" CreationDate="2017-12-17T13:51:18.067" UserId="1197" Text="Mini-ITX case with 10 SATA hot swap bays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27210" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8557" RevisionGUID="2a11d202-4dff-49e2-a1f2-409905547761" CreationDate="2017-12-17T13:51:18.067" UserId="1197" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27211" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6270" RevisionGUID="a829be4c-a1fb-4e9b-87c3-b1c486458809" CreationDate="2017-12-17T14:37:31.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27217" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="b03ef593-9a02-4973-b21a-65e946d4d319" CreationDate="2017-12-17T19:37:42.790" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27222" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="9841e310-8e02-4a32-8d2c-6a7f8d1190ad" CreationDate="2017-12-18T06:44:25.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27223" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="33ad6c04-f3f6-407a-91a7-86a78c92c57a" CreationDate="2017-12-18T11:44:39.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27225" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="168b334e-540e-4758-a3c3-dae4bf127d4f" CreationDate="2017-12-18T17:33:30.200" UserId="7595" Text="I have a computer with hdmi and dvi output. This is a dedicated medical device and I can’t install any additional software on it. I want to use the video output of this computer as a realtime texture in a 3D application (which I am developing) that runs on another computer. How do I create a texture living in the GPU memory of the second computer from the video output of the first? Are there special graphics cards capable of this or is there additional hardware that can enable this? Also, low latency is very important. The latency of the image being available as texture on the second computer should be as low as possible (preferrably no more than 1 frame behind)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27226" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="168b334e-540e-4758-a3c3-dae4bf127d4f" CreationDate="2017-12-18T17:33:30.200" UserId="7595" Text="Create texture from hdmi output of other device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27227" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="168b334e-540e-4758-a3c3-dae4bf127d4f" CreationDate="2017-12-18T17:33:30.200" UserId="7595" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8561" RevisionGUID="47b5689f-dcb6-4f4a-9fd7-9fdac31c8308" CreationDate="2017-12-18T18:55:33.063" UserId="7593" Text="Yo there, Im building a system to use linux, to work in investigation of physics, write in latex, documents, databases , programming,, virtualization  and watch videos and images (2D) but Im stuck at the processor, between a fx 6300 that Im using in another machine and the ryzen series, &#xD;&#xA;But looking at the specs it seems that the ryzen platform was made more to gaming and fancy graphical use instead of what I intend to do, and the bottom line of ryzen seems to lack enough power to work (I have seen this does not have the virtualization support), so what is better, based in the use described before, the fx6300 based on socket AM3+ or the ryzen series on AM4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD. The idea is to have enough punch to work without spending lots of money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27229" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8561" RevisionGUID="47b5689f-dcb6-4f4a-9fd7-9fdac31c8308" CreationDate="2017-12-18T18:55:33.063" UserId="7593" Text="Which processor has a better performance the fx series or the ryzen series?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27230" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8561" RevisionGUID="47b5689f-dcb6-4f4a-9fd7-9fdac31c8308" CreationDate="2017-12-18T18:55:33.063" UserId="7593" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27231" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="13d61812-569a-49b1-a038-63f42b092f8e" CreationDate="2017-12-18T21:43:27.050" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8561" RevisionGUID="24946088-bd9f-47dc-896c-62589f74bbf4" CreationDate="2017-12-18T21:45:24.820" UserId="7593" Comment="deleted 37 characters in body" Text="Yo there, Im building a system to use linux, write in latex, documents, databases , programming,, virtualization  and watch videos and images (2D) but Im stuck at the processor, between a fx 6300 that Im using in another machine and the ryzen series, &#xD;&#xA;But looking at the specs it seems that the ryzen platform was made more to gaming and fancy graphical use instead of what I intend to do, and the bottom line of ryzen seems to lack enough power to work (I have seen this does not have the virtualization support), so which has better performance, based in the uses described before, the fx6300 based on socket AM3+ or the ryzen series on AM4?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PD. The idea is to have enough punch to work without spending lots of money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="bd095457-5291-4f1c-9bd0-116c30c4f886" CreationDate="2017-12-18T21:53:32.100" UserId="7595" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="I’m asking for recommended hardware to achieve the following:&#xD;&#xA;I have a computer with hdmi and dvi output. This is a dedicated medical device and I can’t install any additional software on it. I want to use the video output of this computer as a realtime texture in a 3D application (which I am developing) that runs on another computer. How do I create a texture living in the GPU memory of the second computer from the video output of the first? Are there special graphics cards capable of this or is there additional hardware that can enable this? Also, low latency is very important. The latency of the image being available as texture on the second computer should be as low as possible (preferrably no more than 1 frame behind)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8562" RevisionGUID="fc7671d9-f652-4e49-b529-7030db05c7aa" CreationDate="2017-12-18T21:58:58.780" UserId="6475" Text="Ryzen series chips actually have the edge right now against Intel's offerings when dealing with multi-threaded workloads. Yes, they are great for gaming, but they're great for production as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Providing that budget and availability is not an issue, I firmly recommend the newer Ryzen series over the older FX series. Ryzen has significantly more speed and processing power compared to their equivalent product tiers in the FX series, and you'll be future proofing your machine to last longer before another upgrade / replacement cycle." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8564" RevisionGUID="ae6de1b1-2063-46f8-b3e6-436780fc91af" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:02:47.003" UserId="7556" Text="## TL;DR: Ryzen, unless you plan on never, ever touching this computer after building it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's take a quick look at the advantages/disadvantages:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen              |                 FX&#xD;&#xA;    –––––––––––––––––––|–––––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    Performance        |      Performance/$&#xD;&#xA;    Platform           |      Platform cost&#xD;&#xA;    Upgrade path       |&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Performance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm having some trouble understanding exactly what your workload is (terms like &quot;virtualization&quot; and &quot;programming&quot; encompass a wide range of things) and how much processing power that requires, you've indicated that your FX-6300 was adequate for these tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the tasks you've listed, it seems that most of the applications you're running are either multithreaded or simply don't require that much processing power. As such, we can take a look at the multi-threaded benchmarks for the FX 6300 in comparison to Ryzen to get an idea of processing power:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU                | Passmark         | Passmark/$&#xD;&#xA;    –––––––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    FX-6300            | 6370             | 92.33&#xD;&#xA;    FX-8350            | 8946             | 81.33&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen 3 1200       | 6784             | 61.81&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen 3 1300X      | 7376             | 57.19&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen 5 1400       | 8447             | 54.50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even the lowest of the low for Ryzen should be more than enough for your workload by this metric. It is worth noting that the entry level Ryzens (1200 and 1300X) do not have SMT; if you plan on running a workload that requires more than 4 cores (e.g. a host OS and &gt;3 VMs), you should probably consider getting a better CPU. Ryzen offers these quite easily though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Performance/$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the availability of FX series CPUs–even new still–FX still takes the cake for performance/$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Platform&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AM3+ platform is terribly old, and lacks many features, some of which would even be considered &quot;standard&quot; today: SATA 3, USB-C/3.1, and (gasp) RGB. At the same time, AM3+ only supports 22-38 PCI-e 2.0 lanes (depending on chipset), whereas AM4 24-32 PCI-e 3.0 lanes (depending on chipset.) AM3+ also lacks M.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Platform cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the availability of (especially used) hardware, [AM3+ is still a slightly cheaper platform](https://us.bidvoy.net/970A_motherboard/1244) than [AM4](https://us.bidvoy.net/B350_motherboard/1244). With that said, the difference is relatively small. The real value comes in memory: [DDR3 prices are fine now](https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8GB_ddr3/170083), while [DDR4 is stupid high](https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8GB_ddr4/170083) (roughly double the cost) due to DRAM shortages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Purchase new&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While FX CPUs are still available new in large quantities, [the availability of AM3+ motherboards has dropped heavily.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=4&amp;xcx=0&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1) If you want an AM3+ motherboard, you'll either have to pay too much or buy used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Upgrade path&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The FX platform really has no upgrade path to speak of–once you get the FX-8350, [it's not really worth the money to go anything higher](https://us.bidvoy.net/FX_9590/164) Meanwhile, on the Ryzen platform you can just keep going up to a Ryzen 7 1800X–[over 2x the power of a Ryzen 3 1200.](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Ryzen+7+1800X)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No. For multithreaded workloads, Ryzen currently has the $/performance on the medium-low end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8565" RevisionGUID="2821f5c8-3b38-4e73-a852-b93a421aebbc" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:09:32.810" UserId="5440" Text="The [SilverStone DS380B][1] has 8 hot-swappable bays plus 4 fixed ones. Fair enough?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2BuzHdx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8566" RevisionGUID="24d7a4c8-3a89-4634-9d8e-8714297251c6" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:14:15.013" UserId="7597" Text="I have the 3 [BenQ GW2270][1] monitors and a [Gigabyte Z87-HD3 Intel Z87][2] Motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to be able to connect all three monitors to a digital port, but my motherboard only has 1 X HDMI, 1 X DVI and 1 X VGA. I notice most of the motherboards and graphics cards I've looked at have three display ports but only 2 are digital. I have them connected to my motherboard using the three different connection types. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I get around this, other than spending quite a lot on a new motherboard or high spec graphics card? I only use my PC for general usage and no gaming. The display of these monitors is 1920 X 1080 so nothing intense. The reason for this is so that I have a consistent picture across all three monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could I get two graphics cards with one or two digital ports on each? Maybe something like [this][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What about a DMS graphics card which would use this kind of [splitter][4]? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.benq.co.uk/product/monitor/gw2270/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z87-HD3-rev-1x&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ebuyer.com/704283-gigabyte-r5-230-1gb-ddr3-vga-dual-link-dvi-hdmi-pci-e-graphics-gv-r523d3-1gl&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DMS-59-Dual-DVI/dp/B0017K6BBO" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8566" RevisionGUID="24d7a4c8-3a89-4634-9d8e-8714297251c6" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:14:15.013" UserId="7597" Text="Connecting three monitors with digital cables" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8566" RevisionGUID="24d7a4c8-3a89-4634-9d8e-8714297251c6" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:14:15.013" UserId="7597" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8567" RevisionGUID="292c9cbb-4747-4470-8451-b9782f667a14" CreationDate="2017-12-19T00:25:57.410" UserId="5440" Text="About your software questions, as commented, they belong on different sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To your question. If you are willing to pay you can certainly find a lot of laptop options that have 32 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example is this [HP Envy 15t][1], that has a 7th gen i7, 32 GB of RAM, a 512 SSD drive + a 1 TB HDD, and a 4K display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://goo.gl/zzfQ3p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8568" RevisionGUID="72767ebc-a846-476a-9956-1917f87e6e00" CreationDate="2017-12-19T02:10:41.843" UserId="7556" Text="There are motherboards that have three digital video outs. For example, the [Asus Z97-A](https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97A/) has one DisplayPort, HDMI, DVI, and VGA connector, and supports [three displays simultaneously.](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000025672/graphics-drivers.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you could get a graphics card that has three digital outs. [Something as cheap as an HD 5750](https://us.bidvoy.net/hd_5750/27386) should fulfill the requirement without requiring any extra power from your PSU. I'd recommend just browsing eBay looking for something in the Radeon HD 5000-7000 series or GeForce 400-700 series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One final option: you could use an [MST hub on an enabled DisplayPort port/GPU/OS](https://blog.startech.com/post/connecting-multiple-monitors-multi-stream-transport-and-what-it-means-for-you/) to split a single DisplayPort signal into multiple DisplayPort outs and connect each to a given monitor, but because of the high cost of this method, I won't detail it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8569" RevisionGUID="d0f7ad96-eb6b-4745-8bb4-2b0245afa1c7" CreationDate="2017-12-19T04:18:27.137" UserId="84" Text="I use a single 43&quot; Samsung monitor with a &quot;standing&quot; desk (which I can raise and lower between sitting height and standing height for work).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the monitor's height to adjust independent of the desk's (I like it higher when I'm standing relative to the desk than when I'm sitting), and it's a little shaky on the desk anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want a height-adjustable wall-mount for the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have been unable to find VESA wall-mounts that simply flush-mount the monitor and make it easy to lift and lower it (at least 20&quot;).  Every &quot;height-adjustable&quot; VESA wall-mount I have found is still on an arm, so it significantly changes the distance from the wall as the height is changed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware of VESA wall-mount that offers easy height adjustments with no other dependent degrees of freedom?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27246" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8569" RevisionGUID="d0f7ad96-eb6b-4745-8bb4-2b0245afa1c7" CreationDate="2017-12-19T04:18:27.137" UserId="84" Text="VESA flush wall-mount with height adjustment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27247" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8569" RevisionGUID="d0f7ad96-eb6b-4745-8bb4-2b0245afa1c7" CreationDate="2017-12-19T04:18:27.137" UserId="84" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8572" RevisionGUID="8b7f99a8-1059-4df4-80d3-9cfc52bb91a2" CreationDate="2017-12-19T12:09:19.900" UserId="7117" Text="You can buy a cheap external videcard with 1 digital Out and then using it together with your integrated motherboard's video. But previously you need to check that your motherboard's BIOS supports this function - you can find extra information [there ][1]. It works well in Windows 10. I used this way in other case: my external card has only digital outputs, but I need to plug third monitor with VGA input only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/737546/can-i-use-both-my-internal-and-external-graphics-card-in-same-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27256" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="48405293-1f27-4ae3-82a1-4eef1c7cec96" CreationDate="2017-12-19T14:09:20.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8577" RevisionGUID="7d32ea13-778c-4dab-abe2-12fb05c0e7e7" CreationDate="2017-12-20T02:43:47.213" UserId="7556" Text="## TL;DR: Get an R510 instead of a case. If you already own a motherboard or need to buy new, get an [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) (if you need to buy new or prefer a cleaner solution) or a DAS and an LSI 9200-8e.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding an enclosure with 10+ hot-swap bays is incredibly easy–just take a look at [Newegg's server chassis page](https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100008044%20600010481%20600010484%20600010485%20600010489%20600010490%20600010491%20600010492%20600079494%20600082263%20600082264%20600166623%20600238874&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=36).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right away though, you'll notice the first issue: **price**. As a general rule of thumb, server chassis are far more expensive than their &quot;consumer counterparts&quot;, even accounting for the fact that many include PSUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a second, less obvious issue: how are the drives connected to the motherboard? Almost all of these cases use a **SAS backplane, not a bunch a  of individual SATA connections**–something a standard motherboard won't be able to connect without a special controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to leave four options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 1. Buy a cheap chassis and the appropriate card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Norco has a solid reputation, so the [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) seems to make sense. I'm less familiar with HBA cards, but the [IBM M1015/LSI 9211-8i is popular and cheap.](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=IBM+M1015&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC2.A0.H0.XLSI+9211-8i.TRS0&amp;_nkw=LSI+9211-8i&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 2. Buy a chassis that uses a SATA backplane&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly I couldn't find one, I'll edit this if I find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 3. Buy a complete server (used?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the high cost of buying a chassis and bringing your own hardware, unless you seriously value flexibility or have your own hardware already, buying a complete server could be seriously worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell PowerEdge R540 supports up to 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays barebones at  $1,848.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;As does the ProLiant DL380 G10 barebones at $2,259.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, both of these are rather expensive options given that used server hardware is available much, much cheaper while allowing for cheaper memory and CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R510 can support the same with barebones [starting around $50.](http://r.ebay.com/iQA6Bd)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the DL180 G6 [starting around $75](https://www.ebay.com/itm/172727660736) (though they have a reputation for being **extremely** noisy without a fan mod, and as such, I'd recommend the R510 over it.)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 4. Buy a DAS and connect it to another computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be to buy a DAS and an external HBA like the [LSI 9200-8e](https://www.ebay.com/itm/142530273488) and connect it to any old computer with a free PCI-e slot–server, tower, whatever you can find for the cheapest or have on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lenovo ThinkServer SA120 has 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays (couldn't find anything too cheap at the moment, all [$300+.](https://www.ebay.com/itm332337644546))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the Dell Xyratex Compellent HB-1235 [for about $70](https://www.ebay.com/itm/382312602992)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 5. Throw some hot swap bays in the 5.25&quot; bays of a normal tower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Title is pretty self explanatory here. The value is that you won't need an HBA card; the devil is finding a case with that many 5.25&quot; bays in this day and age and in cost effective adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Antec 900](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021), [AZZA GT1](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517030), [Azza Genesis 9000](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517020) and [Cooler Master Storm Trooper](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119297) all have 9 5.25&quot; bays for around $100 with varying looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older cases like the Lian Li PC-A17 and such also have a high number, but availability on anything with lots 5.25&quot; bays is mediocre. There's a chance you can find something on Craigslist or the like, but no guarantees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The adapters aren't cheap either; this StarTech one is [$24.06](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Startech-5-25-Trayless-Hot-Swap-Mobile-Rack-for-3-5-Hard-Drive/14658413), and if you're not getting something equally hot swappable or just jury-rigging something yourself, you might as well just get a normal case and stick the drives in normal 3.5&quot; mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4ZPY.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2w1Z.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOJN1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmqBj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXBwj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpXk1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/udqG4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnrSi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlEEg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJ7ta.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGrMo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2UVj.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27276" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="2771aae6-30ce-41c9-8686-c629363fded5" CreationDate="2017-12-20T04:12:05.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="3daae4b4-88b9-4a52-8b6c-29a3efff4530" CreationDate="2017-12-20T15:18:53.027" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 111 characters in body" Text="I’m asking for recommended hardware to achieve the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a computer with HDMI and DVI output. This is a dedicated medical device and I can’t install any additional software on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use the video output of this computer as a real-time texture in a 3D application (which I am developing) that runs on another computer. I am looking for hardware that allows HDMI or DVI in, so I can use the video feed in my application. Low latency is very important. The latency of the image being available as a texture on the second computer should be as low as possible (preferably no more than 1 frame behind)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27278" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8560" RevisionGUID="5d3bfc30-c098-46df-b241-5c5ee68063a7" CreationDate="2017-12-20T15:18:53.290" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8577" RevisionGUID="6d8de845-e7ca-484f-abeb-872d6e0898d6" CreationDate="2017-12-20T15:51:33.467" UserId="7556" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text="## TL;DR: Get an R510 instead of a case. If you already own a motherboard or need to buy new, get an [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) (if you need to buy new or prefer a cleaner solution) or a DAS and an LSI 9200-8e.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding an enclosure with 10+ hot-swap bays is incredibly easy–just take a look at [Newegg's server chassis page](https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100008044%20600010481%20600010484%20600010485%20600010489%20600010490%20600010491%20600010492%20600079494%20600082263%20600082264%20600166623%20600238874&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=36).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right away though, you'll notice the first issue: **price**. As a general rule of thumb, server chassis are far more expensive than their &quot;consumer counterparts&quot;, even accounting for the fact that many include PSUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a second, less obvious issue: how are the drives connected to the motherboard? Almost all of these cases use a **SAS backplane, not a bunch a  of individual SATA connections**–something a standard motherboard won't be able to connect without a special controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to leave four options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 1. Buy a cheap chassis and the appropriate card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Norco has a solid reputation, so the [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) seems to make sense. I'm less familiar with HBA cards, but the [IBM M1015/LSI 9211-8i is popular and cheap.](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=IBM+M1015&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC2.A0.H0.XLSI+9211-8i.TRS0&amp;_nkw=LSI+9211-8i&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 2. Buy a chassis that uses a SATA backplane&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly I couldn't find one, I'll edit this if I find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 3. Buy a complete server (used?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the high cost of buying a chassis and bringing your own hardware, unless you seriously value flexibility or have your own hardware already, buying a complete server could be seriously worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell PowerEdge R540 supports up to 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays barebones at  $1,848.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;As does the ProLiant DL380 G10 barebones at $2,259.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, both of these are rather expensive options given that used server hardware is available much, much cheaper while allowing for cheaper memory and CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R510 can support the same with barebones [starting around $50.](http://r.ebay.com/iQA6Bd)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the DL180 G6 [starting around $75](https://www.ebay.com/itm/172727660736) (though they have a reputation for being **extremely** noisy without a fan mod, and as such, I'd recommend the R510 over it.)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xA;&#xA;If you do decide to go the used route, I'd recommend using [LabGopher](https://www.labgopher.com/) to search for a good deal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 4. Buy a DAS and connect it to another computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be to buy a DAS and an external HBA like the [LSI 9200-8e](https://www.ebay.com/itm/142530273488) and connect it to any old computer with a free PCI-e slot–server, tower, whatever you can find for the cheapest or have on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lenovo ThinkServer SA120 has 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays (couldn't find anything too cheap at the moment, all [$300+.](https://www.ebay.com/itm332337644546))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the Dell Xyratex Compellent HB-1235 [for about $70](https://www.ebay.com/itm/382312602992)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 5. Throw some hot swap bays in the 5.25&quot; bays of a normal tower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Title is pretty self explanatory here. The value is that you won't need an HBA card; the devil is finding a case with that many 5.25&quot; bays in this day and age and in cost effective adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Antec 900](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021), [AZZA GT1](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517030), [Azza Genesis 9000](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517020) and [Cooler Master Storm Trooper](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119297) all have 9 5.25&quot; bays for around $100 with varying looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older cases like the Lian Li PC-A17 and such also have a high number, but availability on anything with lots 5.25&quot; bays is mediocre. There's a chance you can find something on Craigslist or the like, but no guarantees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The adapters aren't cheap either; this StarTech one is [$24.06](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Startech-5-25-Trayless-Hot-Swap-Mobile-Rack-for-3-5-Hard-Drive/14658413), and if you're not getting something equally hot swappable or just jury-rigging something yourself, you might as well just get a normal case and stick the drives in normal 3.5&quot; mounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4ZPY.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2w1Z.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOJN1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmqBj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXBwj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpXk1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/udqG4.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnrSi.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlEEg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJ7ta.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGrMo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2UVj.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27280" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8577" RevisionGUID="35995433-a041-4e30-a219-4e39935b3cc4" CreationDate="2017-12-20T16:04:59.113" UserId="7556" Comment="added 470 characters in body" Text="## TL;DR: Get an R510 instead of a case. If you already own a motherboard or need to buy new, get an [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) (if you need to buy new or prefer a cleaner solution) or a DAS and an LSI 9200-8e.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding an enclosure with 10+ hot-swap bays is incredibly easy–just take a look at [Newegg's server chassis page](https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100008044%20600010481%20600010484%20600010485%20600010489%20600010490%20600010491%20600010492%20600079494%20600082263%20600082264%20600166623%20600238874&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=36).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right away though, you'll notice the first issue: **price**. As a general rule of thumb, server chassis are far more expensive than their &quot;consumer counterparts&quot;, even accounting for the fact that many include PSUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a second, less obvious issue: how are the drives connected to the motherboard? Almost all of these cases use a **SAS backplane, not a bunch a  of individual SATA connections**–something a standard motherboard won't be able to connect without a special controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This seems to leave four options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 1. Buy a cheap chassis and the appropriate card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Norco has a solid reputation, so the [RPC-4116](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W058R1642) seems to make sense. I'm less familiar with HBA cards, but the [IBM M1015/LSI 9211-8i is popular and cheap.](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=IBM+M1015&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC2.A0.H0.XLSI+9211-8i.TRS0&amp;_nkw=LSI+9211-8i&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 2. Buy a chassis that uses a SATA backplane&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly I couldn't find one, I'll edit this if I find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 3. Buy a complete server (used?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the high cost of buying a chassis and bringing your own hardware, unless you seriously value flexibility or have your own hardware already, buying a complete server could be seriously worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell PowerEdge R540 supports up to 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays barebones at  $1,848.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;As does the ProLiant DL380 G10 barebones at $2,259.99.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, both of these are rather expensive options given that used server hardware is available much, much cheaper while allowing for cheaper memory and CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R510 can support the same with barebones [starting around $50.](http://r.ebay.com/iQA6Bd)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the DL180 G6 [starting around $75](https://www.ebay.com/itm/172727660736) (though they have a reputation for being **extremely** noisy without a fan mod, and as such, I'd recommend the R510 over it.)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xA;&#xA;If you do decide to go the used route, I'd recommend using [LabGopher](https://www.labgopher.com/) to search for a good deal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 4. Buy a DAS and connect it to another computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be to buy a DAS and an external HBA like the [LSI 9200-8e](https://www.ebay.com/itm/142530273488) and connect it to any old computer with a free PCI-e slot–server, tower, whatever you can find for the cheapest or have on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Lenovo ThinkServer SA120 has 12 x 3.5&quot; hotswap bays (couldn't find anything too cheap at the moment, all [$300+.](https://www.ebay.com/itm332337644546))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the Dell Xyratex Compellent HB-1235 [for about $70](https://www.ebay.com/itm/382312602992)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### 5. Throw some hot swap bays in the 5.25&quot; bays of a normal tower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Title is pretty self explanatory here. The value is that you won't need an HBA card; the devil is finding a case with that many 5.25&quot; bays in this day and age and in cost effective adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Antec 900](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021), [AZZA GT1](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517030), [Azza Genesis 9000](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517020) and [Cooler Master Storm Trooper](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119297) all have 9 5.25&quot; bays for around $100 with varying looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older cases like the Lian Li PC-A17 and such also have a high number, but availability on anything with lots 5.25&quot; bays is mediocre. There's a chance you can find something on Craigslist or the like, but no guarantees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The adapters aren't cheap either; this StarTech one is [$24.06](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Startech-5-25-Trayless-Hot-Swap-Mobile-Rack-for-3-5-Hard-Drive/14658413).&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][13]][13]&#xA;&#xA;OP has also pointed out that SuperMicro makes the [CSE-M35T-1B](https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817121405) a 3 x 5.25&quot; to 10 x 3.5&quot; bay for $100.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][12]][12]&#xA;&#xA;This gives some more flex in case choices, starting from about $50 and working up. [Just pick one you like.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#G=0,6&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1)&#xA;&#xA;These are still expensive solutions though, and if you're not getting something equally hot swappable or just jury-rigging something yourself, you might as well just get a normal case and stick the drives in normal 3.5&quot; mounts.&#xD;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4ZPY.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2w1Z.jpg&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOJN1.jpg&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmqBj.jpg&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXBwj.jpg&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpXk1.jpg&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/udqG4.jpg&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnrSi.jpg&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlEEg.jpg&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJ7ta.jpg&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGrMo.jpg&#xA;  [12]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jHfSK.jpg&#xA;  [13]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2UVj.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8579" RevisionGUID="535ef69c-40dc-47e8-a3f2-96ff31b5ac08" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:37:19.153" UserId="975" Text="I'm looking for a way to connect to the internet through 4G/LTE and have the ability to secure my own traffic, browse primarily text-based sites (read: I don't need serious media streaming capability), while having the portability of a tablet. I don't need anything super-powerful or fast, and I'm open to the idea of having the modem be external or internal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main hurdle I've run into is I just don't know what's out there that fits that need, because I've always stuck strictly with a phone on a data package, or a PC on a LAN, so I'm not familiar with everything in between. I know there are (for example) tablets with built-in modems, but I don't know if that's what I should be looking for or if I should get an external modem and hook it up to a cheap tablet/ultra-light laptop. I also don't know which providers have plans that would easily accommodate this (I'm only familiar with Verizon's hot spots and tethering).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Highly portable&#xD;&#xA; 2. Able to use a physical keyboard/mouse&#xD;&#xA; 3. Able to browse the internet at a reasonable speed&#xD;&#xA; 4. Able to route all my traffic through a VPN without any restriction&#xD;&#xA; 5. Preferably able to run Kali or similar&#xD;&#xA; 6. Cost-effective (for example it would be nice if the data plan could scale to my use each month)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As stated before, this could be an external modem and device combo, or just a single device with a built-in modem. It should be larger and easier to use for typing/browsing than a phone, but smaller and lighter than a regular laptop. Please make recommendations of devices *and* providers that could fit the bill, especially if you've used them personally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27285" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8579" RevisionGUID="535ef69c-40dc-47e8-a3f2-96ff31b5ac08" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:37:19.153" UserId="975" Text="Discrete mobile internet browsing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27286" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8579" RevisionGUID="535ef69c-40dc-47e8-a3f2-96ff31b5ac08" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:37:19.153" UserId="975" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8580" RevisionGUID="5e81c999-caca-42ef-80a0-9f746faa0040" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:54:47.113" UserId="7610" Text="Looking at the specs of these two laptops, they are essentially identical.  Any idea what are differences between these two models?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27288" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8580" RevisionGUID="5e81c999-caca-42ef-80a0-9f746faa0040" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:54:47.113" UserId="7610" Text="Acer Aspire A315-51-31GK vs. Acer Aspire A315-51-380T" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27289" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8580" RevisionGUID="5e81c999-caca-42ef-80a0-9f746faa0040" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:54:47.113" UserId="7610" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27290" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8404" RevisionGUID="f73524ee-5c24-4a4b-83f3-29e08e769378" CreationDate="2017-12-20T22:14:28.673" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27294" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="058f737f-a647-474e-894b-3d94467066cb" CreationDate="2017-12-21T01:18:07.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8581" RevisionGUID="1a827646-2f82-4d50-a9c0-3406a75a8c78" CreationDate="2017-12-21T03:23:47.493" UserId="7606" Text="I've been looking for a new headset for office, but can't find any that suit the following requirement :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Need a good microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Has active noise cancelling&#xD;&#xA; - Isn't worn on the head like most headset&#xD;&#xA; - Is wired USB or 3.5mm   &#xD;&#xA;   This excludes all bluetooth headset.  &#xD;&#xA;   USB connection is preferred but both USB and 3.5mm are good&#xD;&#xA; - Affordable (must be below 120 USD)&#xD;&#xA; - Headphones with only one ear aren't suitable&#xD;&#xA; - The speaker doesn't go deep within the ear.  &#xD;&#xA;   For clarity, the following image show which type of speaker this criteria exclude.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![bad example][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally, they need some kind of support that prevent them from falling off when moving the head. This support would preferably be a hook around the ear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an example that would be suitable if it existed :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Good example][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there headphones that match these criteria? If yes, can point them out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFZxM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/poxPV.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27296" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8581" RevisionGUID="1a827646-2f82-4d50-a9c0-3406a75a8c78" CreationDate="2017-12-21T03:23:47.493" UserId="7606" Text="headphone with active noise cancelling, mic, earhook, wired and not too expansive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27297" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8581" RevisionGUID="1a827646-2f82-4d50-a9c0-3406a75a8c78" CreationDate="2017-12-21T03:23:47.493" UserId="7606" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27298" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8581" RevisionGUID="7dab0983-c33e-419f-8678-73ebfb58639f" CreationDate="2017-12-21T03:35:47.027" UserId="7606" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for a new headset for office, but can't find any that suit the following requirement :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Need a good microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Has active noise cancelling&#xD;&#xA; - Isn't worn on the head like most headset&#xD;&#xA; - Is wired USB or 3.5mm   &#xD;&#xA;   This excludes all bluetooth headset.  &#xD;&#xA;   USB connection is preferred but both USB and 3.5mm are good&#xD;&#xA; - Affordable (must be below 120 USD)&#xD;&#xA; - Headphones with only one ear aren't suitable&#xD;&#xA; - The speaker doesn't go deep within the ear.  &#xD;&#xA;   For clarity, the following image show which type of speaker this criteria exclude.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![bad example][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally, they need some kind of support that prevent them from falling off when moving the head. This support would preferably be a big or small hook around the ear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an example that would be suitable if it existed :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Good example][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there headphones that match these criteria? If yes, can point them out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFZxM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/poxPV.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8582" RevisionGUID="37207d90-5790-454c-8d6a-1efea3ae4433" CreationDate="2017-12-21T05:50:07.857" UserId="7556" Text="You've got two conflicting criteria: noise cancelling and shallow in the ear. Anything noise cancelling is also going to be as noise isolating as possible to avoid letting in excess sound to minimize the job the active cancellation needs to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best I can recommend would be something from [Bose's in-ear lineup.](https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/headphones/earphones.html) They've all got inline mics and wired 3.5mm options, and of course, active noise cancelling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [SoundSport](https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/headphones/earphones/soundsport-in-ear-headphones-apple-devices.html#v=soundsport_ie_headphones_ii_apple_energy_green) and [SoundTrue](https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/headphones/earphones/soundtrue-ultra-in-ear-headphones-apple-devices.html#v=soundtrue_ultra_apple_charcoal) both offer most of what you're asking for and aren't super expensive (around the $50-100 point), but only offer okay noise cancelling. The SoundTrue sounds slightly better while costing more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [QuietComfort 20s](https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/headphones/earphones/quietcomfort-20i-acoustic-noise-cancelling-headphones.html#v=qc20_apple_black) offer much better noise cancelling, but are well out of your budget ($200-250 pricepoint)–however, if you're willing to [buy used](https://us.bidvoy.net/QuietComfort_20/112529) or from a third party, they might be a good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't personally used the SoundSport or SoundTrue and am basing my suggestions on comparisons to headphones I do own. I own the QC20s and (though I do enjoy them) prefer over-ears, so they don't get an immense amount of use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdzHs.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXF6K.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27300" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="22cf3033-ff63-478b-a3d6-112b16929441" CreationDate="2017-12-21T11:26:18.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8583" RevisionGUID="18d9874c-5add-438b-aac9-5c1389bfc202" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:04:17.563" UserId="7612" Text="I work at a institution where we need to buy a few keyboards and mices for replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is: we have to do that through a &quot;inverse auction&quot; technique where the interested sellers have to read the specification first and then make the offer. Lowest price win.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We cannot require a product from a specific brand or model, but we can give specifications to be followed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just for you to understand the problem, last &quot;inverse auction&quot;, the company that won offered  $2 mouses and $5 keyboards that probably wont last much or even be usable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to find good specifications for mid-tier keyboards and mice to stock up, knowing that we cannot replace these every so often or go to the closest shop and buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I did not find good standarized metrics for keyboard and mice specifications, so I need community opinion on how to constrain offers to a reasonably good Office standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my research, I've already have gotten some ideas: One guy at Superuser suggested &quot;travel for the keypress, kind of switching, keyroll over&quot; and Cable Lenght.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also thought about Microsoft's 2 year warranty that usually does not apply to third line chinese branded keyboards, but not sure if that's enought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any other hints?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8583" RevisionGUID="18d9874c-5add-438b-aac9-5c1389bfc202" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:04:17.563" UserId="7612" Text="Good Keyboard/Mice specifications for Daily Office Use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8583" RevisionGUID="18d9874c-5add-438b-aac9-5c1389bfc202" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:04:17.563" UserId="7612" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8585" RevisionGUID="0072f39e-999a-45be-a45d-559df3191dfc" CreationDate="2017-12-21T22:00:41.317" UserId="80" Text="My existing home phone is kind of useless and no one ever answers it because of that. It doesn't have any form of Caller ID and has very few settings, which means it's impossible to screen spam callers. Our phone line mainly exists for FAX purposes, but if I can find the right phone system, it'd be nice to be able to use the actual phone capabilities of it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm wondering if anyone knows of a cordless phone system for homes that still uses the RJ-11 cable for connecting to the phone line (I don't have a choice in how the phone gets connected to the phone line, it has to use that cable), but can also either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Connect to a local network over Wi-Fi;&#xD;&#xA;- *or* Connect to a local network via an Ethernet CAT-6 cable (essentially having two cables connected to the device simultaneously - one to the phone line, one to the network).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having its own web interface for managing the phone system's setting is not necessary, but it should definitely have some sort of API so that requests can be made to the phone system in order to update various settings (like ring volume or blocked callers) as well as accessing data (like call history and voicemails) without having to use the phone itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'd be really great if the phone system also allowed setting more fine-grained preferences on a per-number basis, having a default that applies to everything and can be overridden by the number's specific preferences similar to how most mobile phones operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware of such a home phone system or am I stuck trying to find alternate solutions (but let's be honest, I'd probably just give up)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27309" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8585" RevisionGUID="0072f39e-999a-45be-a45d-559df3191dfc" CreationDate="2017-12-21T22:00:41.317" UserId="80" Text="Is there a standard cordless home phone system that is also network connected for management?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27310" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8585" RevisionGUID="0072f39e-999a-45be-a45d-559df3191dfc" CreationDate="2017-12-21T22:00:41.317" UserId="80" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8586" RevisionGUID="54835214-2762-4d05-8adf-61c6c46a0782" CreationDate="2017-12-22T02:08:40.437" UserId="7615" Text="Assume that I have a box attached into a car and its function is receiving sensors data (GPS, temperature, speed) and push these data onto a remote sever through 2G/3G. Because I need this system be real time, so I need a module SIM to continuously transfer data to remote server. So my criteria for the module Sim is it must be stable, fast enough to push sensors data to sever (maybe twice in a minute). &#xD;&#xA;Can you suggest me some modules Sim can handle well this situation ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8586" RevisionGUID="54835214-2762-4d05-8adf-61c6c46a0782" CreationDate="2017-12-22T02:08:40.437" UserId="7615" Text="Choosing module SIM for pushing data form car-mounted microcontroller to remote server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8586" RevisionGUID="54835214-2762-4d05-8adf-61c6c46a0782" CreationDate="2017-12-22T02:08:40.437" UserId="7615" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27315" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8507" RevisionGUID="cf1af248-c2f0-48c0-90e8-56b0182937ed" CreationDate="2017-12-22T05:34:14.497" UserId="-1" Comment="66" />
  <row Id="27316" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7128" RevisionGUID="40492551-1439-48e7-b3c1-735b341b4e58" CreationDate="2017-12-22T10:29:00.553" UserId="5445" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;&lt;voip&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27317" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8258" RevisionGUID="ea675108-8c0a-407b-9d6d-d7e01638bfff" CreationDate="2017-12-22T14:35:28.737" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27318" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8280" RevisionGUID="a5734029-2184-4393-96b6-4db8919c92f0" CreationDate="2017-12-22T15:35:29.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27319" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8587" RevisionGUID="8d106ac5-a4e8-4e27-98ef-ffc1bb72699c" CreationDate="2017-12-22T17:46:52.083" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: It doesn't matter, pick a carrier with the best service in your area and get the appropriate SIM.&#xA;&#xA;To understand why it doesn't matter, [let's understand what a SIM is.][1]&#xA;&#xA;&gt; A subscriber identity module or subscriber identification module (SIM) is an integrated circuit that is intended to securely store the [international mobile subscriber identity (IMSI) number][2] and its related key, which are used to identify and authenticate subscribers on mobile telephony devices (such as mobile phones and computers).&#xA;&#xA;The SIM is only being queried occasionally to check your identity on the network. Think of it as your ID when you go to a club: it only gets checked to verify your identity; it has no role in what you do in the club besides that.&#xA;&#xA;All the actual transmission is up to the hardware in your phone and in the cell tower. Since you have no control over the cell towers, all you can do is choose a phone with good hardware and a network with good coverage in your area.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subscriber_identity_module&#xA;  [2]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_mobile_subscriber_identity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8588" RevisionGUID="ae1c3da3-3fc8-4cd0-9aad-609306cc1821" CreationDate="2017-12-22T18:04:16.933" UserId="7044" Text="I am sick of paying US$1000 a year for a professional commercial datacenter colo for merely a hobbyist Minecraft / Space Engineers / Factorio gaming server that makes no money and is not run to make a profit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would instead like to build a gaming server that will sit hundreds of miles away from me in someone's closet or basement on their Google fiber, and I want this mini-server to be as close to zero maintenance as possible for the friend acting as my server host.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that dust is the death of technology, and this thing is going to run 24x7 for years in a mostly unmonitored location, so it needs extreme reliability and dust protection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use a professional HVAC high-end deep-pleat furnace filter with high particulate retention, not the cheap blue US$1 filters that let fine dust through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this 20&quot; x 21&quot; x 5&quot; deep MERV 16 filter:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.filtersfast.com/P-Lennox-X8790-MERV-16-Air-Filter-Replacement.asp?kpid=X8790&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This high grade professional filter is likely going to take a bit of static pressure to drive air through it as it builds a dust layer, so the case likely needs more than the typical low-pressure axial fans.... possibly a small squirrel cage or centrifugal horticultural blower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I am also trying to go for something quiet, so the blower likely needs to be of a large diameter, to be slow enough and still have sufficient static air pressure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have spent many months trying to find a super-low maintenance computer case or enclosure like this, and so far it appears no such thing exists. It probably would have to be custom manufactured in a makerspace on a CNC router table or with a plasma cutter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27321" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8588" RevisionGUID="ae1c3da3-3fc8-4cd0-9aad-609306cc1821" CreationDate="2017-12-22T18:04:16.933" UserId="7044" Text="Computer enclosure with high MERV furnace filter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27322" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8588" RevisionGUID="ae1c3da3-3fc8-4cd0-9aad-609306cc1821" CreationDate="2017-12-22T18:04:16.933" UserId="7044" Text="&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27326" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="33cb4a93-92c3-4888-b5f1-597dacfaec12" CreationDate="2017-12-22T22:37:37.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27327" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="5607336e-6b5e-454a-aeb2-c31e21e35df4" CreationDate="2017-12-22T23:37:37.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27332" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="0ebb0c90-5ef9-4665-a3ff-7171ccd1d841" CreationDate="2017-12-23T01:37:55.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27335" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8430" RevisionGUID="aa740ef3-ea38-4015-ba60-78f50b76f5ca" CreationDate="2017-12-23T03:37:59.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8591" RevisionGUID="b169270f-eb0e-41bd-a2fa-522d2b963c7c" CreationDate="2017-12-23T03:42:49.973" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: They're basically identical. I think it may be a case of switching the part number for a different retailer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer even uses the exact same images to represent them on the product pages, down to the URL.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;           |    A315-51-31GK |     A315-51-380T&#xD;&#xA;           |–––––––––––––––––|–––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;      MSRP |         $399.99 |             $349&#xD;&#xA;    Height |           0.85&quot; |            0.82&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The A315-51-31GK appears to be sold at [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834316147), [the Intel Store](https://www.intel.com/buy/us/en/product/laptops/acer-laptop-aspire-3-a315-51-31gk-intel-core-i3-7th-gen-7100u-240-ghz-4-606108). [Microcenter](http://www.microcenter.com/product/484041/aspire_3_a315-51-31gk_156_laptop_computer_-_black), [SuperBiiz](https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=AC-A3151GK), [Jet](https://jet.com/product/detail/350e1158bc8f402794f000ab74b2e8bd), and [Amazon](http://a.co/aVMmxd7), while the A315-51-380T appears to be sold at [Walmart](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Acer-A315-51-380T-15-6-Laptop-7th-Gen-Intel-Core-i3-7100U-4GB-DDR4-1TB-HDD-Windows-10-Home/677478400) and [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Acer-A315-51-380T-Laptop-i3-7100U-Windows/dp/B077WNR92V).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My best guess is this is a case of Acer using different part numbers to prevent price matching between certain stores.  Amazon doesn't directly price match, so carrying both doesn't hurt them. It seems strange though that Walmart and Jet (who is owned by Walmart) would carry different products though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27337" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8592" RevisionGUID="8f051dc8-2025-43ee-8fe6-72ea70dd739b" CreationDate="2017-12-23T05:22:30.657" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Don't. Get an SD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's start by taking a tour of your MacBook's I/O: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For sake of simplicity and feasibility, we'll explore three options here: USB, Thunderbolt, and SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Contrary to your original question, you do have USB 3.0! We won't go into it much, but the newer port you're referring to is USB 3.1 Type C. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB 3.0 has a maximum speed of 5 Gb/s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0)–below [SATA 3's 6 GB/s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#SATA_revision_3.0_(6_Gbit/s,_600_MB/s,_Serial_ATA-600)), but still above [most (even fairly fast) SSDs.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB/Rating/2385) All good then, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, through a combination of packet problems, controller issues (either on the computer or enclosure end), and general magic, USB 3.0 [just... isn't that fast.](https://macperformanceguide.com/MacPro2013-USB3-performance-limitations.html) I'm not particularly well equipped to say why, and I wouldn't be surprised if more in-depth analysis revealed flawed testing methodology, but that's the fact of the matter... for now. Still, 3.360 Gb/s isn't anything to scoff at, nor is it too far from advertised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Thunderbolt 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt is kinda the big daddy of external expansion. It advertises 20 Gb/s over a 4x PCI-e 2.0 connection. And for the most part, [it delivers](https://www.akitio.com/blog/articles/akitio-thunderbolt2-drive-real-world-performance)... 11 Gb/s. Akito specifically cites the chipset (rather than the protocol) as the limiting factor. Still, that's enough to handle the fastest SATA SSDs, and even decent PCI-e drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### SD[XC]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [SD spec](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#SDXC) promises speed up to 2500 Mb/s for UHS-II. You won't get that on a MacBook Pro, since the reader is connected over a USB bus–in your case, USB 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Choosing your connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, we get the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB enclosure: Lower speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, medium price&#xD;&#xA; - Thunderbolt enclosure: Better speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, PCI-e support, high price&#xD;&#xA; - SD: Lower speed, lower flexibility with drive choice, low cost, *much better portability*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that USB and Thunderbolt are fundamentally incompatible specifications; you cannot convert Thunderbolt to USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that you're using this for secondary storage on a computer with an already very fast SSD and (based on the fact that you said $100-150 was too expensive) price is important, SD cards seem like the way to go. You can [even get ones that lie flush with the rest of your laptop.](http://a.co/7kqVKJM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you haven't provided a specific price or storage requirement, I can't get more specific than that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dazB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIxkN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27338" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="55aa9c26-017e-408f-a7bc-64580a41c473" CreationDate="2017-12-23T08:40:14.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27340" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7281" RevisionGUID="a85156f8-93c5-49d5-92cd-d0f3e42d762a" CreationDate="2017-12-23T18:40:36.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27341" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="8ee4e87f-3b65-4702-b997-62e07b88e236" CreationDate="2017-12-24T00:47:11.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8593" RevisionGUID="107ab9e1-9d5c-452e-88cc-992a7629690b" CreationDate="2017-12-24T13:45:15.320" UserId="7623" Text="I once had an archos 35 home connect android alarm clock and I want sth. like that again. I know the xoro and orbsmart products, anything else? It should be the combination of a cheap android phone with speakers and a stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27345" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8593" RevisionGUID="107ab9e1-9d5c-452e-88cc-992a7629690b" CreationDate="2017-12-24T13:45:15.320" UserId="7623" Text="android bedside alarm clock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27346" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8593" RevisionGUID="107ab9e1-9d5c-452e-88cc-992a7629690b" CreationDate="2017-12-24T13:45:15.320" UserId="7623" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;alarm-clock&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27347" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="e0e4ea5d-4df9-48ba-9ea2-0d787434686c" CreationDate="2017-12-24T16:53:31.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27348" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="9477637b-ed04-4e71-ab74-498642280bd0" CreationDate="2017-12-24T19:53:32.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27349" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="76e6ab85-4c73-4f1b-b962-43f28dc01c21" CreationDate="2017-12-25T00:53:39.723" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27350" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8594" RevisionGUID="042f19b3-43c4-465b-8c22-cd08cdc09dbf" CreationDate="2017-12-25T01:29:07.730" UserId="5440" Text="The **Zettaly Avy** seems to be a good option, though I'm not sure if this is still in your &quot;cheap&quot; range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a full Android tablet, pretty up-to-date with Android 6.0 (not the latest...but not that bad either) and comes with the Google Play Store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here [On Amazon][1] for **$129.99**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://amzn.to/2DIx9tb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27355" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="9125dd09-3b89-4317-b1fb-3e5fa7fe49e6" CreationDate="2017-12-25T08:58:40.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27356" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="8c33863e-dfc0-4f10-95fb-5dae256ef7c3" CreationDate="2017-12-25T14:06:48.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8596" RevisionGUID="3775145e-383e-40ba-adeb-38a0b8c268dc" CreationDate="2017-12-25T18:48:30.210" UserId="7556" Text="## TL;DR: The [LG 24MP59G-P](http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-24MP59G-P-gaming-monitor)/[LG 24MP59HT-P](http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-24MP59HT-P-led-monitor)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;€250&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is a pretty massive budget for a monitor of that size and resolution. At this price point, I'd consider decent color (read: IPS) non-negotiable. Since you mentioned gaming and programming (not content creation), I'm guessing perfect color isn't too important though. For that reason, I focused on providing a better gaming experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With both of these monitors, you get a 75Hz refresh rate with Freesync. IMO, these features make gaming (even relatively casual gaming) much, much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beyond that, compared to the Dell monitors you suggested:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - ≈€30 cheaper (about [€125](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Dnbkcf/lg-24mp59g-p-238-1920x1080-75hz-monitor-24mp59g-p))&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly thicker bezels&#xD;&#xA; - Slightly worse out-of-the-box calibration&#xD;&#xA; - Some backlight bleed&#xD;&#xA; - Fewer creature comforts&#xD;&#xA; - (Monitor-dependent) No built-in speakers or USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given how much room you have left in your budget, it should be within your budget to get a nice USB hub and set of bookshelf speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Between the G and HT models, the difference appears to be in vendors (BestBuy carries only the HT, the G is carried more universally) and inputs (the HT has 2x HDMI and 1x VGA, the G has 1x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI, and 1x VGA.) I'd recommend the G if you can find it (DisplayPort tends to have fewer issues with Freesync.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I don't know know where you live or what actual prices are as a result, so I'll be using USD and converting." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8597" RevisionGUID="8a18a0d7-bfe3-4728-9ac1-eb9fadb8468b" CreationDate="2017-12-25T19:52:18.763" UserId="7627" Text="I've got this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;intel i3 8100 CPU&#xD;&#xA;8 GB DDR4 2400MHZ in a single module&#xD;&#xA;MSI 1050 TI 4GB Video card&#xD;&#xA;MSI Tomahawk Z370 MOBO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I notice 100% cpu usage especially when gaming even on 2011 games (Homefront) for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now my question is does having single channel memory configuration put's more load on the cpu, does adding another ram module reduces the cpu load? and why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27359" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8597" RevisionGUID="8a18a0d7-bfe3-4728-9ac1-eb9fadb8468b" CreationDate="2017-12-25T19:52:18.763" UserId="7627" Text="does memory configuration affect cpu usage?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27360" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8597" RevisionGUID="8a18a0d7-bfe3-4728-9ac1-eb9fadb8468b" CreationDate="2017-12-25T19:52:18.763" UserId="7627" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27361" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="c7bd2c6b-bdf2-4e32-968e-e95db279bdbf" CreationDate="2017-12-25T20:09:13.610" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8598" RevisionGUID="010ed28c-6d87-4d6b-a565-80e9608cb43f" CreationDate="2017-12-25T20:32:26.003" UserId="7628" Text="This may be a stupid question, so I apologize up front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVidia's website says the `Maximum Digital Resolution` for my video card is 7680x4320. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does that mean that is the MAXIMUM resolution it can support for **each** of the 4 monitors? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does that mean that **combined**, the monitors cannot exceed that resolution?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/10series/geforce-gtx-1070-ti/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8598" RevisionGUID="010ed28c-6d87-4d6b-a565-80e9608cb43f" CreationDate="2017-12-25T20:32:26.003" UserId="7628" Text="NVidia GForce 1070 - Multiple Monitors max resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8598" RevisionGUID="010ed28c-6d87-4d6b-a565-80e9608cb43f" CreationDate="2017-12-25T20:32:26.003" UserId="7628" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8599" RevisionGUID="ac33843e-a7a1-4773-a696-42868aaefac9" CreationDate="2017-12-25T21:20:24.027" UserId="7556" Text="[Per monitor, as that's the maximum a single Displayport 1.4 port can provide.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Resolution_and_refresh_frequency_limits_for_DisplayPort)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tAa0qbAYK4) show a Titan X (Maxwell) pushing 3x4K displays with the card [listing a Maximum Digital Resolution of 5120x3200](https://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8600" RevisionGUID="03db339a-32c0-42ed-9f49-1aaaded16882" CreationDate="2017-12-26T17:13:52.563" UserId="7630" Text="Would suggest you check task manager/process (sort by cpu) and see what is causing the 100% cpu utilization. Adding more memory helps if the computer is constantly hitting hard drive cache which is an order of a magnitude slower, which you can check under task manager/performance.&#xD;&#xA;But its not gonna help if its just a case of some services going bad or to many other programs loaded that need lots of cpu." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27380" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="039e0872-edf9-4696-9231-2f666b2288ee" CreationDate="2017-12-27T08:28:33.143" UserId="5849" Text="**Hello community**&#xD;&#xA;Few month ago i buy new GPU (1060 GB) and my performence go higger thank you for that. But now i see my CPU is not enough for what i am doing on my pc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So what i do on my PC?**&#xD;&#xA;Playing games. This part is quite good. I can run most of games in almost full settings (GTA 5 etc) but my CPU is on 70-90% of usage. In PUBG its around 80-95%(Low setting except render distance).&#xD;&#xA;**I like streaming**&#xD;&#xA;Recently i started streaming again. And since i have second monitor i see that most of times my CPU is **80-100%** depending on game witch i am playing. Right now i encode video with GPU (**nvidia nvec**) so GPU is takeing the hard part but still OBS need somethink to do so mostly its takes 10% of usage. I stream in **720p60fps**.(Internet doesnt allow me to do 1080p30fps or higger).&#xD;&#xA;During the streaming i also host MP games(**strategy games**) and run some background programs like chrome, discord, bots for chat etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Time to time some fans they can see that streaming is **laggy and i see in OBS that is buffering and losing frames**. I dont want to go lower on quality settings. I just want to have nice picture for vievers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Photoshop, video editing, rendering**.&#xD;&#xA;For pictures and graphic am using photoshop Currently Seems like i have enough power. For editng video rendering and i think its not. Take a long time to make a 20 min video like 40-50 min to render in fullHD. Just for fun i am rendering Also fractals, but its not important&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i belive that its not good to have CPU at 80-100% usage all the time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **My curret build** &#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** Intel Core i5-3550p &#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** Nvidia GTX 1060(GB) &#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 16 gigabytes 1600MHz (two slots) &#xD;&#xA; - **MB:** Asrock Z77 pro3 &#xD;&#xA; - **Drives:** 1 TB Western Digital(Other data) and 120GM SSD kingstone (OS programs some games)&#xD;&#xA;   **PSU:** Corsair 600 Watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget:** Well this is hard part like 500-700 dolars depending on CPU(thats why the range explaining below)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My opinion**. Since i have old CPU(maybe causing the issue) i also need new MB and RAMs. So budget include those things. Now i am considering Intel Core I5-8400 or Intel Core I7-8700. **Beetween those there is around 200 dolars different**(reason for 500-700 budget). I am not sure if the power of I7 is worthy to spend money on it for what i am doing on pc most of times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Last words:** **So i want to buy new HW for next 4-5 years**. Also i **dont like** **CPU with K version**, because i neder do overclokings and i like coolers that comes with CPU(good experince Intel-3550p). In same time i am not fan of AMD i had bad experinece with them&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anyway thank you for reading, any relpy and have a nice day!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27381" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="039e0872-edf9-4696-9231-2f666b2288ee" CreationDate="2017-12-27T08:28:33.143" UserId="5849" Text="PC upgrade for next few years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27382" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="039e0872-edf9-4696-9231-2f666b2288ee" CreationDate="2017-12-27T08:28:33.143" UserId="5849" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27384" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="76d33cd6-170b-4553-86f4-6b3e50f77902" CreationDate="2017-12-27T13:36:56.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8604" RevisionGUID="3737eaa5-de70-4761-91c7-934c3a035a66" CreationDate="2017-12-27T16:24:13.103" UserId="5918" Text="I have 2 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070, one of them is ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 ROG STRIX, and the other is ASUS DUAL GTX 1070. I have a HB Bridge which I am not able to connect because the strix one is wider than dual. I have placed the strix one in the 1st PCIe slot and then the dual one in the 2nd one, I cannot put the strix one in 2nd slot as my cabinet's hard disk bay blocks it. The only way to connect the bridge is to put the dual one 1st and the strix one 2nd. I need a cabinet that is large enough to support in this configuration.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;My PC Details:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Cabinet - Antec GX500 Window&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Mobo - ASUS Z170 PROGAMING. &lt;br&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8604" RevisionGUID="3737eaa5-de70-4761-91c7-934c3a035a66" CreationDate="2017-12-27T16:24:13.103" UserId="5918" Text="Cabinet Recommendation for 2 NVIDIA GTX 1070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8604" RevisionGUID="3737eaa5-de70-4761-91c7-934c3a035a66" CreationDate="2017-12-27T16:24:13.103" UserId="5918" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27388" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8605" RevisionGUID="57192bf5-0c20-4886-89de-1d5a4cc53761" CreationDate="2017-12-27T19:56:53.300" UserId="7638" Text="I'm going to upgrade a laptop [Asus N750JK][1] and plug additional memory in it. My goal is to have maximum available capacity installed, but the specs of the laptop seem to contradict with the [specs of the CPU][2] that it has installed (max 32 GB on Intel site vs max 16 GB on Asus). I previously already run into a situation when manufacturer specs are somewhat wrong, but not sure if the motherboard designed so that laptop can see memory more than 16 GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to figure it out i would like to buy 1 x 16 GB RAM chip, and mix it with existing 2 GB chip, and if the laptop can recognize both, i'll plug another 16 GB RAM, otherwise i can just leave a single 16 GB chip. The problem is that Asus specs also imply in context, that each slot can take up to 8 GB, so i will probably waste my money and time without any luck. Is there any way to check if this laptop supports at least one 16 GB RAM chip without buying it and having it in my hands?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Laptops/N750JK/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/75027/Intel-Core-i5-4200H-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27389" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8605" RevisionGUID="57192bf5-0c20-4886-89de-1d5a4cc53761" CreationDate="2017-12-27T19:56:53.300" UserId="7638" Text="Is this laptop compatible with 1 x 16 GM RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27390" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8605" RevisionGUID="57192bf5-0c20-4886-89de-1d5a4cc53761" CreationDate="2017-12-27T19:56:53.300" UserId="7638" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8606" RevisionGUID="9c108dd8-27b4-49c2-9eff-9481c8b075a6" CreationDate="2017-12-27T20:51:04.527" UserId="7639" Text="Im looking into buying a new 4K HDR Tv for gaming and general television functions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really like the [Panasonic DX802b][1] but my main concern (although it is HDR ready) is that it will soon be overlooked my newer OLED models that are coming down in price while this tv is still using LED technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 802b is getting great [reviews][2] online and for £800 here in the UK it seems like a bargain. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a budget of about £1000 (roughly about $1340) will this be a good investment for the next 4-5 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/televisions/4KTV/tx-50dx802b.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/panasonic/1405341/panasonic-tx-50dx802b-review-a-superb-4k-hdr-tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27392" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8606" RevisionGUID="9c108dd8-27b4-49c2-9eff-9481c8b075a6" CreationDate="2017-12-27T20:51:04.527" UserId="7639" Text="Advice on buying a 4k Tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27393" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8606" RevisionGUID="9c108dd8-27b4-49c2-9eff-9481c8b075a6" CreationDate="2017-12-27T20:51:04.527" UserId="7639" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8606" RevisionGUID="17d2f348-0771-48dd-8782-b9d546958b53" CreationDate="2017-12-27T20:56:59.530" UserId="7639" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="Im looking into buying a new 50 inch 4K HDR Tv for gaming and general television functions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really like the [Panasonic DX802b][1] but my main concern (although it is HDR ready) is that it will soon be overlooked my newer OLED models that are coming down in price while this tv is still using LED technology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 802b is getting great [reviews][2] online and for £800 here in the UK it seems like a bargain. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a budget of about £1000 (roughly about $1340) will this be a good investment for the next 4-5 years?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/televisions/4KTV/tx-50dx802b.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/panasonic/1405341/panasonic-tx-50dx802b-review-a-superb-4k-hdr-tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8609" RevisionGUID="080e8e65-57a2-4e10-be39-be73bd2fbc71" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:31:01.640" UserId="7640" Text="I'm trying to build a custom machine with the following specs: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard&#xD;&#xA;* NVIDIA 1080-Ti GTX GPU&#xD;&#xA;* Intel i7-7700 CPU&#xD;&#xA;* 4 x 16GB Kingston HyperX RAM cards &#xD;&#xA;* Ubuntu 16.04 OS &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to run multiple monitors off of the CPUs integrated GPU while reserving the NVIDIA card for ML with CUDA. I've been trying to do this with an MSI motherboard but am having all kinds of problems. Namely: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I cannot boot directly into Ubuntu. Each time I have to hold `Shift` to enter the GRUB and then type `nouveau.modeset=0` after the quiet splash line. &#xD;&#xA;* I cannot run multiple monitors&#xD;&#xA;* I cannot setup CUDA because the GPU is powering the graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently tried to remove the GPU and run the monitor off of the motherboard (instead of the GPU's) DVI port. Since attempting this I cannot even get the computer to post. It's just flashing the CPU debug light at me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two questions: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Other then stripping down to essential component, rebuilding from scratch, and resetting the CMOS, are there any other debugging steps I'm missing that are necessary to get the computer to post? &#xD;&#xA;2. I haven't had great luck with this MSI MoBo and am considering buying another board. Any recommendations from fellow data science / crypto nerds out there? I hate calling support when I'm having an issue and being told &quot;technically we only support Windows...&quot; &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27402" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8609" RevisionGUID="080e8e65-57a2-4e10-be39-be73bd2fbc71" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:31:01.640" UserId="7640" Text="Motherboard issues for custom machine learning computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27403" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8609" RevisionGUID="080e8e65-57a2-4e10-be39-be73bd2fbc71" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:31:01.640" UserId="7640" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8610" RevisionGUID="c6d79ca3-d996-480c-9892-220036d101b8" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:52:36.210" UserId="7642" Text="Since I have my son I record looooots of 4k videos. By default it take about 400 MB per minute.&#xA;&#xA;My i7 2600k with ffmpeg is able to encode about 2 FPS. It's way too long. So I am looking for a graphical card able to accelerate encoding in HEVC / x265. I have notice lot's of NVENC GPU, but they seams to be made to be able to encode in real time with the drawback of having big file size.&#xA;&#xA;So is there GPU card able to encode in HEVC with the CRF option of ffmpeg to keep a specific quality for a better video size please? I don't need real time encoding, but 2 FPS is really too slow. &#xA;&#xA;Thank you,&#xA;&#xA;A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27405" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8610" RevisionGUID="c6d79ca3-d996-480c-9892-220036d101b8" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:52:36.210" UserId="7642" Text="GPU with hevc AND crf encoding on ffmpeg?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27406" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8610" RevisionGUID="c6d79ca3-d996-480c-9892-220036d101b8" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:52:36.210" UserId="7642" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8611" RevisionGUID="a2761b67-04d5-47c4-9f9e-f997246709c9" CreationDate="2017-12-28T00:44:59.203" UserId="7643" Text="A few months ago I invested in 3x 4K displays 3x(3840x2160). They have connectivity for HDMI and DisplayPort 1.2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What might sound crazy is that I don't have a workstation to drive them, so currently I'm driving two of them from my work laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to invest in a Microsoft Surface Book 2 but I fear this lacks the connectivity I require for external displays, plus I'm not sure whether a discrete GTX 1050 /w 2GB GDDR5 will be sufficient for the displays, *and that's only if I buy the top of the range model.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything like the [Razer Core v2][1] external graphics unit that I can get for the surface book?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/gaming-laptops/razer-core-v2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27408" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8611" RevisionGUID="a2761b67-04d5-47c4-9f9e-f997246709c9" CreationDate="2017-12-28T00:44:59.203" UserId="7643" Text="Microsoft Surface Book 2 with external displays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27409" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8611" RevisionGUID="a2761b67-04d5-47c4-9f9e-f997246709c9" CreationDate="2017-12-28T00:44:59.203" UserId="7643" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8613" RevisionGUID="e1cac1bf-8466-401b-a55b-a929be778666" CreationDate="2017-12-28T03:06:20.640" UserId="5440" Text="The manufacturer will usually be right, and it can be limited by the memory slot itself or the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And they clearly say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; DDR3L 1600 MHz SDRAM, 2 GB, **up to 16 G**, (8 GB x 2), 2x DIMM socket,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; **DIMM Up to 8 G**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only way to really make sure is to buy and test..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8614" RevisionGUID="f0560ebb-9ad1-406e-a6ca-25bf497518ce" CreationDate="2017-12-28T03:42:50.777" UserId="7555" Text="Have a look at [this link](https://ark.intel.com/products/69114/Intel-Core-i5-3350P-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz). Your CPU needs a good upgrade, as you said. Since you want something for a few years ahead, I would recommend an something like i7-6700 or newer. Because you said you had a budget, don't look at the X-series. These things are just overpriced I think. But since you are at it, consider upgrade RAM as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [ASRock z370 PRO4](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07639M7MY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AHG2MI785YUY7&amp;psc=1) for $145 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Intel i5-8600k](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07639M7MY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AHG2MI785YUY7&amp;psc=1) for $321 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And just consider upgrading RAM to like 32GB if you want" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8615" RevisionGUID="511c34ab-5534-48e7-933b-d41a89ec062b" CreationDate="2017-12-28T10:06:10.490" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: You'll need a different laptop. More info on your requirements would be good so I can make a better reccomendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Natively&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right out of the gate, [Microsoft says no.](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4039635/connect-surface-to-a-tv-display-or-projector)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Surface            | External displays | Max refresh rate | Max screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    –––––––––––––––––––|–––––––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    Surface Book 2 15” | One               | 60 Hz            | 4096 x 2304&#xD;&#xA;    Surface Book 2 15” | Two               | 30 Hz            | 4096 x 2304&#xD;&#xA;    Surface Book 2 15” | Two               | 60 Hz            | 2560 x 1600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I'm not one to believe Microsoft. After all, [it is a DisplayPort 1.4 signal being carried by that USB-C connector in theory](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Alternate_Mode_partner_specifications), [supporting up to an 8K@60Hz signal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Resolution_and_refresh_frequency_limits_for_DisplayPort), [as confirmed by the GTX 1060 specs](https://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-1060/specifications). 3x4K@60Hz should be no biggie, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem: How does one connect up three displays using one connector? Answer: [With an MST hub!](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multiple_displays_on_single_DisplayPort_connector) Problem: Every MST hub I know of is DisplayPort 1.2 rated, and can't support 3x4k@even 30Hz–[even ones advertised for the (admittedly last gen) Surface products.](https://www.accellcables.com/products/ultraav-mini-displayport-1-2-mst-multi-display-hub) (I've personally tested this one myself with a Surface Pro 4 and 2x1440p@60Hz.) Even the official [Surface Dock](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/surface/accessories/surface-dock) only has two Mini DisplayPort connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So while it may be possible, Microsoft certainly won't support it, and the hardware doesn't exist as far as I know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### eGPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C is one of those confusing things: it refers both to a physical connector and a communications protocol. Though Thunderbolt 3 uses USB-C type connectors, they are not one and the same. The Surface Book 2 does not support Thunderbolt 3 (or any other Thunderbolt revision), and therefore cannot support eGPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### What now?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without knowing your budget, use case, and the features you want, it's kinda hard to recommend a laptop. However, based off the fact that you like the Surface Book, I'll recommend the [Eve V](https://eve-tech.com/pages/eve-v) with an [Akitio Node](https://www.akitio.com/expansion/node) as your eGPU box. It's a direct competitor to the Surface Pro, and includes a Thunderbolt 3 port, so eGPU will work fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously there's a lot of trade offs here: eGPUs are expensive (the Akitio Node is the cheapest reasonable box I know of and still costs $250) and [take a significant performance hit](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHwXOwTgYB0), you won't get the relative safety in terms of warranty and support of an established brand like Microsoft with the Eve V (though [it was reviewed well](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQm60PrrEJk&amp;t=385s)), and the Eve V isn't an outstanding performer for every workload. But–based on the information you've given me (read: give me more info)–it's the best recommendation I can make." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27417" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8597" RevisionGUID="7de46951-68d0-4bc5-a6ba-fcb2337790fc" CreationDate="2017-12-28T15:40:19.943" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27419" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8605" RevisionGUID="6bfc60fa-a43d-457d-ab84-e7b5605a03e0" CreationDate="2017-12-28T15:42:15.927" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27420" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8580" RevisionGUID="c2b13d07-7c5b-48f8-8bc4-dfddca864526" CreationDate="2017-12-28T15:44:29.020" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27421" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8598" RevisionGUID="c957023d-3f5f-454a-8a66-49104b8db38f" CreationDate="2017-12-28T15:44:49.367" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27429" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8609" RevisionGUID="410e192f-e60c-4edc-868e-344ed58b308a" CreationDate="2017-12-28T19:18:51.857" UserId="7640" Comment="deleted 921 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to build a custom machine with the following specs: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard&#xD;&#xA;* NVIDIA 1080-Ti GTX GPU&#xD;&#xA;* Intel i7-7700 CPU&#xD;&#xA;* 4 x 16GB Kingston HyperX RAM cards &#xD;&#xA;* Ubuntu 16.04 OS &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't had great luck with this MSI MoBo and am considering buying another board. Any recommendations from fellow data science / crypto nerds out there? I hate calling support when I'm having an issue and being told &quot;technically we only support Windows...&quot; &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8618" RevisionGUID="ec6ab7c0-751a-4337-9ee6-aa7a9d3d8a70" CreationDate="2017-12-29T08:55:16.233" UserId="7651" Text="I've implemented [this kind of component][1] in my web application for the user to be able to make on-screen signatures:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This might be comfortable to use in touch-enabled devices, so as the user can use his finger or a kind of stick to draw the signature. However, it would be more difficult to do it using the mouse when he's in a PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, is there any device which writes directly in the screen in a mouse-like behaviour? I've seen [those signature sets][3] which seem to output a bitmap (that's not what I want).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The way to use it would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. User enters the drawing zone in his browser using his mouse.&#xD;&#xA;2. User takes the electronic pen and draws the signature using the mouse pointer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Think of it as a USB pluggable pen, **its ballpoint would both move the pointer and simulate a left-click of the ordinary mouse**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything should be possible using the same PC and with the electronic pen device having priority over the mouse for controlling the pointer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://onlinesignature.com/draw-a-signature-online&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tws5Q.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://tiendas.mediamarkt.es/p/tableta-de-firma-wacom-stu-430-sp-set-1315335?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyZLSBRDpARIsAH66VQJHBx2exE3nI5NIXrRGxsonUN1qRZ6cjqP0FIgRHKYY887IZsTzTeIaAsL6EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8618" RevisionGUID="ec6ab7c0-751a-4337-9ee6-aa7a9d3d8a70" CreationDate="2017-12-29T08:55:16.233" UserId="7651" Text="Is there any electronic device to make an on-screen signature in a PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8618" RevisionGUID="ec6ab7c0-751a-4337-9ee6-aa7a9d3d8a70" CreationDate="2017-12-29T08:55:16.233" UserId="7651" Text="&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27439" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8610" RevisionGUID="3f404ab9-ea9b-4333-a0b3-ebdc9ba1b664" CreationDate="2017-12-29T10:43:18.093" UserId="7642" Comment="added 131 characters in body" Text="Since I have my son I record looooots of 4k videos. By default it take about 400 MB per minute. Thoses videos are recorded with an iPhone or a Galaxy S7. So the phones are not powerful enough to compress with a better bitrate.&#xA;&#xA;My i7 2600k with ffmpeg is able to encode about 2 FPS. It's way too long. So I am looking for a graphical card able to accelerate encoding in HEVC / x265. I have notice lot's of NVENC GPU, but they seams to be made to be able to encode in real time with the drawback of having big file size.&#xA;&#xA;So is there GPU card able to encode in HEVC with the CRF option of ffmpeg to keep a specific quality for a better video size please? I don't need real time encoding, but 2 FPS is really too slow. &#xA;&#xA;Thank you,&#xA;&#xA;A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8610" RevisionGUID="040a0003-f804-4081-ab94-487f965c6e9c" CreationDate="2017-12-29T10:50:24.733" UserId="7642" Comment="added 315 characters in body; added 117 characters in body" Text="Since I have my son I record looooots of 4k videos. By default it take about 400 MB per minute. Thoses videos are recorded with an iPhone or a Galaxy S7. So the phones are not powerful enough to compress with a better bitrate.&#xA;&#xA;My i7 2600k with ffmpeg is able to encode about 2 FPS. It's way too long. So I am looking for a graphical card able to accelerate encoding in HEVC / x265. I have notice lot's of NVENC GPU, but they seams to be made to be able to encode in real time with the drawback of having big file size : with GPU acceleration the CRF option of ffmpeg is usually not available. Because it use an other process and the compression is not as powerful than with a software encoding. So the file is not as tiny as it would be with software compression.&#xA;&#xA;So is there GPU card able to encode in HEVC with the CRF option of ffmpeg to keep a specific quality for a better video size please? I don't need real time encoding, but 2 FPS is really too slow. &#xA;&#xA;I can use other encoder than ffmpeg as long as they run under Linux.&#xA;&#xA;If I can stay around 250 €, maximum 500€ it would be nice. Because I will buy this GPU only for the video encoding.&#xA;&#xA;Thank you,&#xA;&#xA;A." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27452" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="180a1e70-6596-4b3f-8fab-62565c56f592" CreationDate="2017-12-29T18:03:08.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27453" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="0390a4d6-95e0-4845-a3ec-34b2cd137e6e" CreationDate="2017-12-29T21:03:16.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8621" RevisionGUID="fa1988c0-2ab1-4ab3-9f4d-2ce9e4db8567" CreationDate="2017-12-29T21:44:23.687" UserId="6353" Text="I'm setting up a storage server in a typical (albeit very large) computer case. I have like 20 2 TB SATA hard drives, and I want to connect all of them to one motherboard. The most ports I found on a consumer motherboard was 15. Is there some sort of way to get like 20 SATA ports from USB C or PCIe? I don't mind slower speeds because I have SSDs to handle high-speed uploads, and most of the time I am accessing the data from a computer connected through ethernet, which has proved manageable with slower drives. Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27455" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8621" RevisionGUID="fa1988c0-2ab1-4ab3-9f4d-2ce9e4db8567" CreationDate="2017-12-29T21:44:23.687" UserId="6353" Text="15-25 port SATA to USB C or PCIe adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27456" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8621" RevisionGUID="fa1988c0-2ab1-4ab3-9f4d-2ce9e4db8567" CreationDate="2017-12-29T21:44:23.687" UserId="6353" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8622" RevisionGUID="4cae0d8b-9456-4701-91c9-5dcba9029927" CreationDate="2017-12-29T23:35:56.083" UserId="3653" Text="Assuming this is a typical logic board, PCIe is a lower-level connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, PCIe is actually a 'direct connect' into the PCI buss..&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, USB is usually routed thru the PCI buss THEN thru a USB controller chip, to then run thru the USB circuit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This means that data would be handled faster thru PCIe, rather than thru the USB busses..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The speed difference of SSD would be somewhat lost by going thru USB.&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, a USB based assembly might well cause  you further issues with issues such as auto-mount, etc...." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8623" RevisionGUID="09400eff-f133-4c80-b499-faa7b40a84cd" CreationDate="2017-12-30T03:10:35.430" UserId="1921" Text="Clearly you need an adaptec raid controller card.&#xD;&#xA;The 71685 supports 24 devices natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://storage.microsemi.com/en-us/support/raid/sas_raid/sas-71685/&#xD;&#xA;[![71685][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 internal and 2 external connectors.  Each support 4 drives natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you add SATA/SAS expanders and you can add up to 255/6 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEc6K.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27460" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8623" RevisionGUID="06dc7ee1-4938-4835-9cf4-fa5e68f9d7c0" CreationDate="2017-12-30T03:23:45.550" UserId="1921" Comment="added 85 characters in body" Text="Clearly you need an adaptec raid controller card.&#xD;&#xA;The 71685 supports 24 devices natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://storage.microsemi.com/en-us/support/raid/sas_raid/sas-71685/&#xD;&#xA;[![71685][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 internal and 2 external connectors.  Each support 4 drives natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ark.intel.com/products/60273/Intel-RAID-Expander-RES2CV240#@productimages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you add SATA/SAS expanders and you can add up to 255/6 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811192419&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Server+-+Chassis-_-N82E16811192419&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiA7JfSBRBrEiwA1DWSGyLCmrUMtGV2pRlZ-JC6baIFzL5alLwQiVeEXKzQUsiiONg6cUxbYBoCLmwQAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEc6K.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgvsM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27461" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8623" RevisionGUID="cdf40f1c-2d86-4329-a757-377e13fdcacb" CreationDate="2017-12-30T03:41:00.143" UserId="1921" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="Most companies that produce RAID controllers have similar options.  What your doing isn't even hard, people do 256 hard drives via SAS/SATA expanders and chasis like the one listed below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clearly you need an adaptec raid controller card.&#xD;&#xA;The 71685 supports 24 devices natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://storage.microsemi.com/en-us/support/raid/sas_raid/sas-71685/&#xD;&#xA;[![71685][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 internal and 2 external connectors.  Each support 4 drives natively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ark.intel.com/products/60273/Intel-RAID-Expander-RES2CV240#@productimages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then you add SATA/SAS expanders and you can add up to 255/6 devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811192419&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Server+-+Chassis-_-N82E16811192419&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiA7JfSBRBrEiwA1DWSGyLCmrUMtGV2pRlZ-JC6baIFzL5alLwQiVeEXKzQUsiiONg6cUxbYBoCLmwQAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEc6K.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgvsM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27462" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8624" RevisionGUID="d422f813-6cf1-4857-821c-d9d29137867d" CreationDate="2017-12-30T04:11:08.230" UserId="1921" Text="Ok, this one is 12V.  Put a voltage regulator, and a couple capacitors and your all set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://shop.udoo.org/usa/x86/udoo-x86-ultra.html&#xD;&#xA;[![mini computer][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Wifi/Bluetooth adapter $17 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3tlk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8624" RevisionGUID="25623ea8-1a9d-4362-aa97-13903cccfe7d" CreationDate="2017-12-30T04:16:30.077" UserId="1921" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="Ok, this one is 12V.  Put a voltage regulator, and a couple capacitors and your all set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The UDOO X86 ADVANCED PLUS probably be just as good as the ultra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://shop.udoo.org/usa/x86/udoo-x86-ultra.html&#xD;&#xA;[![mini computer][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Wifi/Bluetooth adapter $17 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3tlk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8624" RevisionGUID="4df0340d-4d2d-4fcc-b9d4-7f05cfb334c5" CreationDate="2017-12-30T04:24:46.137" UserId="1921" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="Ok, this one is 12V.  Put a voltage regulator, and a couple capacitors and your all set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can pretty much add any screen to this.&#xD;&#xA;1x HDMI&#xD;&#xA;2x miniDP++ connectors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Monitor-Powered-Ultralight-Speakers/dp/B01M7RMBV9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514608062&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=Gechic+1503H&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514608008&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+display+for+raspberry+pi&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The UDOO X86 ADVANCED PLUS probably be just as good as the ultra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://shop.udoo.org/usa/x86/udoo-x86-ultra.html&#xD;&#xA;[![mini computer][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Wifi/Bluetooth adapter $17 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3tlk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8624" RevisionGUID="57685281-6c3b-4169-a277-ea46185edfd6" CreationDate="2017-12-30T04:34:57.993" UserId="1921" Comment="added 154 characters in body" Text="Ok, this one is 12V.  Put a voltage regulator, and a couple capacitors and your all set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can pretty much add any screen to this.&#xD;&#xA;1x HDMI&#xD;&#xA;2x miniDP++ connectors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Monitor-Powered-Ultralight-Speakers/dp/B01M7RMBV9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514608062&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=Gechic+1503H&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-IPS-LED-HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-1920x1080-Monitor-for-Raspberry-Pi-PS3-4-Xbox360-/381614017851?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/GeChic-2501H-1920x1080-Portable-Monitor/dp/B018DXABEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514608008&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+display+for+raspberry+pi&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The UDOO X86 ADVANCED PLUS probably be just as good as the ultra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://shop.udoo.org/usa/x86/udoo-x86-ultra.html&#xD;&#xA;[![mini computer][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Wifi/Bluetooth adapter $17 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3tlk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8625" RevisionGUID="ab4a7e7e-77fd-4d3a-a1a4-595334a2c6a6" CreationDate="2017-12-30T05:15:04.683" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: A cheap drawing tablet, probably from Wacom's Intuos or Bamboo linups. (the same company you linked.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drawing tablets are made exactly for this, of which Wacom is generally considered the industry go-to. While they've usually got nice integration with apps like Illustrator or Photoshop to utilize fancy features like pressure levels, they've also got functionality as a mouse! Usually, there's a proximity sensory to determine if the mouse should be moved and a tip in a special pen to determine when you're pressing and then perform the appropriate function. Since it's all software programable, you can just have it left click when the tip is pressed!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From their current lineup, the [Intuos Draw](https://us-store.wacom.com/Product/Intuos-Draw-Small-S01?sku=CTL490DB#/undefined1) is the cheapest, and should get the job done just fine for $79.95.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, Wacom has been around since 1983, so there's plenty of new and old stock to choose from. I picked up a Wacom Bamboo CTH-460 for $21 NIB from Goodwill, and [you'll see similar prices with lots and lots of availability.](https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/47279092)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wacom also offers tablets with screens and paper-to-digital functionality, but they're quite expensive, and IMO, probably not worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not aware of any ball-based drawing tablet, though the idea is interesting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/R386e.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KchCU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8626" RevisionGUID="10bdf1e8-4097-4df7-8050-216a9a666752" CreationDate="2017-12-30T06:16:25.343" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Your motherboard + an LSI 9211-8i, or just a motherboard with more SATA ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Motherboard upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're willing to manage with a slightly lower amount of ports, just get a motherboard with a bunch of SATA ports! The most I know of is 22 on the [ASRock Z87 Extreme11/ac](http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87%20Extreme11ac/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll notice two things though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You can't find this board. Seriously, good luck.&#xD;&#xA;2. The specifications say &quot;22 x SATA3 (16 x SAS3 12.0 Gb/s + 6 x SATA3 6.0 Gb/s) from LSI SAS 3008 Controller+ 3X24R Expander&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel only supports up to 6 SATA-III ports on the various [LGA 1150](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150) and [LGA 1151 chipsets](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151), 10 on [X99](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011) and 8 (???) on [X299](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/chipsets/desktop-chipsets/x299.html) (though the [MSI X299 XPOWER GAMING AC](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X299-XPOWER-GAMING-AC.html) supports 10.) AMD supports 6 on [X370](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4) and [X399 apparently caps out at 8.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#sort=price&amp;s=36) Basically, that ASRock motherboard just has another third party SATA controller built in. That's no fun! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leads us to the section option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Add another SATA controller&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@cybernard has the right idea, but I'm going to disagree with his hardware choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though it's not 100% clear, it seems implied by your post that you don't need hardware RAID support, at least at a controller level. Basically, we just want to present the system with just a bunch of disks (JBOD.) This is going to allow us to save a massive amount of money compared using dedicated hardware RAID card on a card like the Adaptec RAID 71685 (retails for $1120!) which would need to have every drive connected to it (if we used the hardware RAID), since we can continue to use the onboard SATA ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To accomplish this, we're going to use a much, much cheaper HBA: the LSI 9211-8i (also known as the IBM M1015, or the compatible Dell Perc H200/H310.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 2 x two SFF-8087 mini-SAS connectors, each supporting four 6Gb/s connections (the max for SATA-III) and up to 256 physical devices, and can be easily connected to standard SATA data using [a breakout cable.](https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-Mini-SAS-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's popular, [cheap](https://www.ebay.com/itm/292371003988) (roughly $40), and–with a little work–supports JBOD. [Here's a quick guide on how to set it up.](https://nguvu.org/freenas/Convert-LSI-HBA-card-to-IT-mode/) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a wealth other cards as well, like the monstrous [40-Channel SATA 6Gbps HighPoint Rocket 750](https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-Rocket-750-40-Channel-PCI-Express/dp/B00C7JNPSQ), but they're far, far more expensive, and probably overkill for your needs. Remember, you can use multiple cards, and as long as you're not bottlenecking, port multiplication is fine. Internal SATA III 1 to 5 cards can be had as low as [$60](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2HZ1956); you don't need a fancy backplane (though if you're into fancy cases with fancy hot swap, [boy have I got a post for you!](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8557/mini-itx-case-with-10-sata-hot-swap-bays/8577#8577))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiAru.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOJ3G.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27469" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8627" RevisionGUID="eb11c343-cc68-4640-8a3c-3dcad514cd28" CreationDate="2017-12-30T09:30:53.497" UserId="7654" Text="I know this question is vague but I'm trying to find a way to connect regular speakers with red and black connectors my PC and be able to adjust fade (in addition to balance) for four speakers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest any hardware or software required to do so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this time, it does not need to be OS specific. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27470" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8627" RevisionGUID="eb11c343-cc68-4640-8a3c-3dcad514cd28" CreationDate="2017-12-30T09:30:53.497" UserId="7654" Text="Adjust fade on pc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27471" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8627" RevisionGUID="eb11c343-cc68-4640-8a3c-3dcad514cd28" CreationDate="2017-12-30T09:30:53.497" UserId="7654" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8627" RevisionGUID="f22078b3-061a-480d-a48f-d5593026cc9e" CreationDate="2017-12-30T10:19:18.850" UserId="7654" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I know this question is vague but I'm trying to find a way to connect regular speakers with red and black connectors to my PC and be able to adjust fade (front and back), in addition to balance, for four speakers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest any hardware or software required to do so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this time, it does not need to be OS specific. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27474" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="3ce254b3-eb20-45b2-b291-7dab7ebebde1" CreationDate="2017-12-30T11:08:42.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27475" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="420b4fb1-5d23-4d6e-9b68-93aae1d1ef86" CreationDate="2017-12-30T12:08:42.673" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="df897a70-7318-4743-b366-fa931c920467" CreationDate="2017-12-30T13:49:38.083" UserId="7648" Text="A high definition video is needed to be streamed out from a highly movable platform with a range of 5 meters. What do I need? both hardware and software. In the movable platform there is a PC and on the ground an LCD is preferable. The cost is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Explanation: The movable platform is flight simulator for gaming purposes, in which a PC is embedded. That is, in the transmitter, we have a PC with all its peripherals like USB, PCI, etc. We need to stream out the output of the game and see it on an LCD. Outside of the movable platform, we need to see the streaming video with lowest possible cost in an LCD. One way is to install a PC outside the movable platform and use a VNC to transmit the streaming video. However, it seems that implementing these requirements with lower cost is also possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27477" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="df897a70-7318-4743-b366-fa931c920467" CreationDate="2017-12-30T13:49:38.083" UserId="7648" Text="HD video stream for flight simulator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27478" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="df897a70-7318-4743-b366-fa931c920467" CreationDate="2017-12-30T13:49:38.083" UserId="7648" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="c5fe12ea-4126-4d17-bcce-047c7c0a4d71" CreationDate="2017-12-30T18:00:06.427" UserId="1459" Text="I'm looking for a compact MicroSD card adapter with multiple slots to enable simultaneous access to at least two (preferrably more) MicroSD cards.  In essence: multiple MicroSD card readers in a single device.  The idea is to access multiple large-capacity cards at the same time using a single device rather than using a USB switch with separate adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an example of an adapter than can read and write from two cards simultaneously: https://www.amazon.com/Cateck-USB3-0-4-Slot-Reader-Micro/dp/B01J5651NA&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27480" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="c5fe12ea-4126-4d17-bcce-047c7c0a4d71" CreationDate="2017-12-30T18:00:06.427" UserId="1459" Text="USB adapters for simultaneous access to multiple MicroSD cards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27481" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="c5fe12ea-4126-4d17-bcce-047c7c0a4d71" CreationDate="2017-12-30T18:00:06.427" UserId="1459" Text="&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27485" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="eb757f3e-404b-4a0a-8bf9-8b357b22549e" CreationDate="2017-12-30T20:10:48.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27487" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="fb2d202b-6a89-48cf-87fe-b2eda5372b19" CreationDate="2017-12-30T22:18:02.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27491" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8455" RevisionGUID="29d0e8c0-3946-4cae-ac2a-f15078f36cad" CreationDate="2017-12-31T06:24:09.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27498" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="d18be696-2b72-4a48-ae83-078465d5f20b" CreationDate="2017-12-31T18:27:13.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27500" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="61860f4f-5686-4993-ac87-2a2460e042cb" CreationDate="2017-12-31T20:27:14.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27508" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="cf104f25-8b01-46e9-aa2b-95e2f5d26064" CreationDate="2017-12-31T22:27:53.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27512" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8592" RevisionGUID="5d2cdffa-5818-4229-a3be-ce743284e7e2" CreationDate="2018-01-01T02:17:11.590" UserId="7556" Comment="added 1393 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Don't. Get an SD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's start by taking a tour of your MacBook's I/O: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For sake of simplicity and feasibility, we'll explore three options here: USB, Thunderbolt, and SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Contrary to your original question, you do have USB 3.0! We won't go into it much, but the newer port you're referring to is USB 3.1 Type C. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB 3.0 has a maximum speed of 5 Gb/s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0)–below [SATA 3's 6 GB/s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#SATA_revision_3.0_(6_Gbit/s,_600_MB/s,_Serial_ATA-600)), but still above [most (even fairly fast) SSDs.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB/Rating/2385) All good then, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, through a combination of packet problems, controller issues (either on the computer or enclosure end), and general magic, USB 3.0 [just... isn't that fast.](https://macperformanceguide.com/MacPro2013-USB3-performance-limitations.html) I'm not particularly well equipped to say why, and I wouldn't be surprised if more in-depth analysis revealed flawed testing methodology, but that's the fact of the matter... for now. Still, 3.360 Gb/s isn't anything to scoff at, nor is it too far from advertised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Thunderbolt 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt is kinda the big daddy of external expansion. It advertises 20 Gb/s over a 4x PCI-e 2.0 connection. And for the most part, [it delivers](https://www.akitio.com/blog/articles/akitio-thunderbolt2-drive-real-world-performance)... 11 Gb/s. Akito specifically cites the chipset (rather than the protocol) as the limiting factor. Still, that's enough to handle the fastest SATA SSDs, and even decent PCI-e drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### SD[XC]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [SD spec](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#SDXC) promises speed up to 2500 Mb/s for UHS-II. You won't get that on a MacBook Pro, since the reader is connected over a USB bus–in your case, USB 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[One thing to note is that the maximum file size you can put on an SD card varies.](https://superuser.com/questions/313482/do-memory-cards-have-any-max-file-size-limitation) Normal SD cards support 2GB (avoid!), SDHC cards support 32GB, and SDXC cards support 2TB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Choosing your connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in mind, we get the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB enclosure: Lower speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, medium price&#xD;&#xA; - Thunderbolt enclosure: Better speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, PCI-e support, high price&#xD;&#xA; - SD: Lower speed, lower flexibility with drive choice, low cost, *much better portability*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that USB and Thunderbolt are fundamentally incompatible specifications; you cannot convert Thunderbolt to USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that you're using this for secondary storage on a computer with an already very fast SSD and (based on the fact that you said $100-150 was too expensive) price is important, SD cards seem like the way to go. You can [even get ones that lie flush with the rest of your laptop](http://a.co/7kqVKJM), or [microSD adapters](https://www.amazon.com/BASEQI-Aluminum-microSD-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B012F38H9A) that allow you to bring your own SD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you haven't provided a specific price or storage requirement, I can't get more specific than that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have no regard for money or physical space considerations, the [Sony 128GB SF-G Series UHS-II](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1322907-REG/sony_sosd128gbuii_128gb_uhs_ii_sd_card.html) is [among the best I know of](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/computers/buying-guide/the-fastest-memory-cards-money-can-buy), and comes with a 5 year warranty and data recovery to boot, though I would advise against this. I would recommend something along the lines of the [SanDisk 128GB Extreme UHS-I](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1249527-REG/sandisk_sdsqxvf_128g_an6ma_128gb_extreme_uhs_i_microsdxc.html) and one of those microSD flush-fitting adapters from earlier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The exception to this is if you want a large amount of storage (256GB+ mostly.) SD cards at this price point are still much more expensive than their desktop counterparts while offering worse performance, though this breaking point will likely change in the future as SSD prices continue to drop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dazB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIxkN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8640" RevisionGUID="3e6964bb-048e-4980-9a66-b801b5b1590a" CreationDate="2018-01-01T10:05:19.553" UserId="7662" Text="I am choosing a processor for a new PC for parallel floating point computations in R. My tasks are very like Monte Carlo simulations, so the performance is nearly proportional to the number of cores at a fixed frequency. I am not going to overclock the processor. I am choosing between Ryzen 1700 and Core i5-8600k or something of a similar price. What would be the best choice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8640" RevisionGUID="3e6964bb-048e-4980-9a66-b801b5b1590a" CreationDate="2018-01-01T10:05:19.553" UserId="7662" Text="Best inexpensive processor for R statistical simulation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8640" RevisionGUID="3e6964bb-048e-4980-9a66-b801b5b1590a" CreationDate="2018-01-01T10:05:19.553" UserId="7662" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="203dce57-ee4e-4d48-89ec-932a21e9ee43" CreationDate="2018-01-01T18:13:45.123" UserId="1921" Text="This is about the smallest I could find.  I am having trouble finding the m.2 of that size, but still looking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="e9d7abad-2551-42be-a8a9-951c28b07628" CreationDate="2018-01-01T18:27:13.210" UserId="1921" Comment="add slc option" Text="This is about the smallest I could find.  I am having trouble finding the m.2 of that size, but still looking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an odd ball but its SLC&#xD;&#xA;[![swiss][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="217129d4-8923-4ecd-813a-09c8f7d1212f" CreationDate="2018-01-01T18:35:17.210" UserId="1921" Comment="add slc option" Text="This is about the smallest I could find.  I could only find the 2242 standard and an adapter that is 70X25X9mm.  Maybe a smaller adapter can be found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an odd ball but its SLC&#xD;&#xA;[![swiss][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="2d2a8ff8-3c63-407d-b8f1-fd1be09254cf" CreationDate="2018-01-01T18:54:19.510" UserId="1921" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAERZ6979320&amp;cm_re=usb_slc-_-9SIAERZ6979320-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Enterprise level USB SLC][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is about the smallest I could find.  I could only find the 2242 standard and an adapter that is 70X25X9mm.  Maybe a smaller adapter can be found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an odd ball but its SLC&#xD;&#xA;[![swiss][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqTRF.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27537" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="59be4147-0abc-4b76-a4c8-355c4b4d4977" CreationDate="2018-01-01T19:05:11.973" UserId="1921" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="This one says its 2&quot; by 1.2&quot;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-512GB-Pocket-Solid-State/dp/B0185C5Y0U/ref=sr_1_69?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514833350&amp;sr=8-69&amp;keywords=usb+slc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAERZ6979320&amp;cm_re=usb_slc-_-9SIAERZ6979320-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Enterprise level USB SLC][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is about the smallest I could find.  I could only find the 2242 standard and an adapter that is 70X25X9mm.  Maybe a smaller adapter can be found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an odd ball but its SLC&#xD;&#xA;[![swiss][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqTRF.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8643" RevisionGUID="e61467b8-33d3-48fc-82aa-329333728122" CreationDate="2018-01-01T19:11:05.960" UserId="1921" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="This one says its 2&quot; by 1.2&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Caution 15 of 46 customers units reviewed on amazon failed.**&#xD;&#xA;43% had no reported issues.  However, 46 reviews is hardly statically significant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-512GB-Pocket-Solid-State/dp/B0185C5Y0U/ref=sr_1_69?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514833350&amp;sr=8-69&amp;keywords=usb+slc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAERZ6979320&amp;cm_re=usb_slc-_-9SIAERZ6979320-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Enterprise level USB SLC][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is about the smallest I could find.  I could only find the 2242 standard and an adapter that is 70X25X9mm.  Maybe a smaller adapter can be found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SSD adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's an odd ball but its SLC&#xD;&#xA;[![swiss][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqTRF.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8644" RevisionGUID="12e9fb41-16e4-45a3-952d-478645bc98e9" CreationDate="2018-01-01T19:41:41.840" UserId="1921" Text="How about this it accepts 10 sd cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA86V4U72871&amp;cm_re=sd_10-_-9SIA86V4U72871-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could add a SATA to USB adapter to this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27540" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="463511ee-5b76-4dd1-bfd2-f5e606ffa688" CreationDate="2018-01-01T19:43:12.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8645" RevisionGUID="66c52d2f-1473-46f4-b5bb-fe9ee2d7da3d" CreationDate="2018-01-01T20:05:41.290" UserId="7666" Text="Recently I using Quad Core Q8400 with Asus P5g41t - mlx within FSP Aurum 650 Watt 80 Gold plus. OS Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've planning to upgrade my processor to xeon X5470. I used my desktop to design graphic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to this [site][1] said Q8400 is the winner. In fact, from the technical specification they are different. I thought X5470 should be the winner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From ark intel site, Q8400 have specification like this bellow :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Product Collection&#xD;&#xA;    Legacy Intel® Core™ Processors&#xD;&#xA;    Code Name&#xD;&#xA;    Products formerly Yorkfield&#xD;&#xA;    Vertical Segment&#xD;&#xA;    Desktop&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Number&#xD;&#xA;    Q8400&#xD;&#xA;    Status&#xD;&#xA;    End of Interactive Support&#xD;&#xA;    Launch Date&#xD;&#xA;    Q2'09&#xD;&#xA;    Lithography&#xD;&#xA;    45 nm&#xD;&#xA;    Recommended Customer Price&#xD;&#xA;    $179.00&#xD;&#xA;    Performance&#xD;&#xA;    # of Cores&#xD;&#xA;    4&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Base Frequency&#xD;&#xA;    2.66 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Cache&#xD;&#xA;    4 MB L2&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Speed&#xD;&#xA;    1333 MHz FSB&#xD;&#xA;    FSB Parity&#xD;&#xA;    No&#xD;&#xA;    TDP&#xD;&#xA;    95 W&#xD;&#xA;    VID Voltage Range&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And X5470 are bellow &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Product Collection&#xD;&#xA;    Legacy Intel® Xeon® Processors&#xD;&#xA;    Code Name&#xD;&#xA;    Products formerly Harpertown&#xD;&#xA;    Vertical Segment&#xD;&#xA;    Server&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Number&#xD;&#xA;    X5470&#xD;&#xA;    Status&#xD;&#xA;    End of Life&#xD;&#xA;    Launch Date&#xD;&#xA;    Q3'08&#xD;&#xA;    Expected Discontinuance&#xD;&#xA;    Q4'2010&#xD;&#xA;    Lithography&#xD;&#xA;    45 nm&#xD;&#xA;    Recommended Customer Price&#xD;&#xA;    $1467.00&#xD;&#xA;    Performance&#xD;&#xA;    # of Cores&#xD;&#xA;    4&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Base Frequency&#xD;&#xA;    3.33 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Cache&#xD;&#xA;    12 MB L2&#xD;&#xA;    Bus Speed&#xD;&#xA;    1333 MHz FSB&#xD;&#xA;    FSB Parity&#xD;&#xA;    Yes&#xD;&#xA;    TDP&#xD;&#xA;    120 W&#xD;&#xA;    VID Voltage Range&#xD;&#xA;    0.850V-1.3500V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However why CPUBoss said the Q8400 is winner? Which one the best? if its worth it to upgrade to xeon x5470? Why the price of Q8400 is still expensive if we got the better performance on cheap price? Let say core 2 extreme QX9650 is still more expensive than xeon X5470.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last but not least, I know x5470 designed to LGA 771 Chipset. My Motherboard on LGA 775. Is it safe to use modded processor? Do i need to update BIOS because recently I've view from Youtube and do some update bios.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Xeon-X5470-vs-Intel-Core2-Quad-Q8400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27542" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8645" RevisionGUID="66c52d2f-1473-46f4-b5bb-fe9ee2d7da3d" CreationDate="2018-01-01T20:05:41.290" UserId="7666" Text="Quad Core Q8400 vs Xeon X5470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27543" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8645" RevisionGUID="66c52d2f-1473-46f4-b5bb-fe9ee2d7da3d" CreationDate="2018-01-01T20:05:41.290" UserId="7666" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27544" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8644" RevisionGUID="99683e97-1c41-4f21-9d94-ece3c4fa5dec" CreationDate="2018-01-01T20:57:01.283" UserId="1921" Comment="added 450 characters in body" Text="You could use multiple adapters&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UB5132701&amp;cm_re=micro_sdhc_usb_adapter-_-9SIA4UB5132701-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Eye-Fi-Compact-Adapter-Professional-Digital/dp/B001DKO7R8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1514840011&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=micro+sd+to+compact+flash+adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you have a device with 1. MicroSD, 2. microsd to sd to compact flash,3. microsd to TF.  More adapter probably exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How about this it accepts 10 sd cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA86V4U72871&amp;cm_re=sd_10-_-9SIA86V4U72871-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could add a SATA to USB adapter to this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8646" RevisionGUID="f53b5932-9de7-42af-90b8-2943c5f22ac6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T21:41:48.537" UserId="7667" Text="My notebook stopped working and, seen that I mainly use it as a desktop computer, I'd rather buy a desktop computer this time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with the need to buy a tablet, that will be used for the following tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reading PDF files. The task involves continuonusly switching between different pages (views) and files, without hyperlinks.&#xD;&#xA; - Showing pictures to people.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing the Internet, in wi-fi covered areas (and possibly on a stand).&#xD;&#xA; - Writing in sites like this one (using a physical keyboard?).&#xD;&#xA; - Use my desktop PC through some app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only one that is really necessary is the first one, most others I can do at the desktop PC if necessary. As a consequence, I have been suggested to aim for at least 10&quot; and good resolution.&#xD;&#xA;Note how I don't need a camera or phone connectivity and I don't care much about weight or to how the device looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to spend as low as I can without sacrificing durability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device will be used at home mainly, so a battery that does not degrade over time is better than a battery that lasts a lot for each single charge (and then, power banks to the rescue if it needs be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The anti-reflection screen is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The item must be available for sale via Internet, from a reliable supplier (I consider Amazon to be reliable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask me for more details if needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27546" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8646" RevisionGUID="f53b5932-9de7-42af-90b8-2943c5f22ac6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T21:41:48.537" UserId="7667" Text="What's the best tablet for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27547" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8646" RevisionGUID="f53b5932-9de7-42af-90b8-2943c5f22ac6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T21:41:48.537" UserId="7667" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8647" RevisionGUID="c7ba9a91-1f78-4309-b582-dd41c2566179" CreationDate="2018-01-01T22:48:00.223" UserId="7203" Text="I'm looking to buy a new 4K TV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It should be fairly large, above 50&quot;, but I don't care if it's 55&quot; or 65&quot; or whatever.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The TV should support at least 3840x2160 at 60Hz with HDR on at least 2 inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As how there [aren't any TVs with DisplayPort][1], the next best thing is HDMI, I want at least 5 HDMI ports, at least 2 of them being HDMI 2.1 or 2.0a/b and supporting 4K input at 60Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I do not care if it is a &quot;smart&quot; TV or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Obviously inexpensive is preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know TV that comes close to meeting these requirements but not quite (like only 4 HDMI ports or just at 50&quot;) then feel free to post it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/are-there-any-large-4k-tvs-on-the-market-which-have-displayport-ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27549" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8647" RevisionGUID="c7ba9a91-1f78-4309-b582-dd41c2566179" CreationDate="2018-01-01T22:48:00.223" UserId="7203" Text="What are some good large 4K TVs with plenty of HDMI 2.0a/b or 2.1 ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27550" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8647" RevisionGUID="c7ba9a91-1f78-4309-b582-dd41c2566179" CreationDate="2018-01-01T22:48:00.223" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27551" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8647" RevisionGUID="4a3ab4a0-4eac-4813-8cac-8cc6d9a0c1f8" CreationDate="2018-01-01T22:58:28.870" UserId="7203" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to buy a new 4K TV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It should be fairly large, above 50&quot;, but I don't care if it's 55&quot; or 65&quot; or whatever.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The TV should support at least 3840x2160 at 60Hz with HDR on at least 2 inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As how there [aren't any TVs with DisplayPort][1], the next best thing is HDMI, I want at least 5 HDMI ports, at least 2 of them being HDMI 2.1 or 2.0a/b and supporting 4K input at 60Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I do not care if it is a &quot;smart&quot; TV or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Obviously inexpensive is preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know TV that comes close to meeting these requirements but not quite (like only 4 HDMI ports or just under 50&quot;) then feel free to post it too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/are-there-any-large-4k-tvs-on-the-market-which-have-displayport-ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8648" RevisionGUID="e020d93c-ffac-4652-afd2-76f0b17050c6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:30:23.973" UserId="7203" Text="Are there any large 4K TVs on the market which have USB Type-C inputs? USB Type-C can carry a DisplayPort signal so a TV could use it for the video signal. A quick Google search for this does not turn up many results. I found that many people have said that HDMI is the standard for TVs and nobody wants USB Type-C or [DisplayPort][1] on TVs. However, I definitely do want this feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rather than debating whether it's in demand or not, I would like to know: Are there any available?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/are-there-any-large-4k-tvs-on-the-market-which-have-displayport-ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27553" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8648" RevisionGUID="e020d93c-ffac-4652-afd2-76f0b17050c6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:30:23.973" UserId="7203" Text="Are there any large 4K TVs on the market which have USB Type-C inputs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27554" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8648" RevisionGUID="e020d93c-ffac-4652-afd2-76f0b17050c6" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:30:23.973" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27555" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8296" RevisionGUID="887da59b-868c-4522-8cb9-88d519d82eb5" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:31:09.300" UserId="7203" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Are there any large 4K TVs on the market which have DisplayPort ports? A quick Google search for this does not turn up many results. I found that many people have said that HDMI is the standard for TVs and nobody wants DisplayPort or [USB Type-C][1]. However, I definitely do want this feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rather than debating whether it's in demand or not, I would like to know: Are there any available?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8648/are-there-any-large-4k-tvs-on-the-market-which-have-usb-type-c-inputs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8649" RevisionGUID="b9030d97-1bc3-4ed1-ad94-355fe39efc11" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:46:54.550" UserId="7556" Text="# Because CPUBoss doesn't compare on pure performance basis, I wouldn't bother upgrading, the X5470 is better, high prices are a result of ease of use, it won't hurt anything but if it works depends on the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CPUBoss&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPUBoss doesn't evaluate from a pure performance, but rather a more wholistic perspective. For example, [the Core 2 Duo E8400 scores a 5.9 while the i7 5960X scores a 5.8](http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core2-Duo-E8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-5960X), despite the E8400 being worse by miles in every way except price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anecdotally, I've found that CPU/GPUBoss provide very poor metric for comparing hardware, outside of their aggregation of benchmarks and specifications (and even then, those are often lackluster compared to the original sources, i.e. GeekBench, Passmark, and ARK.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Which processor is better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend looking just at the Passmark numbers. The [X5470 wins with 4662](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Xeon+X5470+%40+3.33GHz) compared to the [Q8400's 3187.](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q8400+%40+2.66GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Is it worth the upgrade?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd say no. Compared to other LGA 775/LGA 771 processors and even newer platforms, the X5470 is incredibly expensive [at around $40.](https://us.bidvoy.net/x5470/164) You'd be better off jumping ship to a slightly newer platform, or investing in solid cooling (which can transfer in the future) and overclocking heavily. I won't go too in depth, but with more info on budget and requirements (read: another question) I'd be happy to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price of old processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Q8400 isn't expensive, at around $17.](https://us.bidvoy.net/Q8400/164) [The QX9650 is expensive at around $60](https://us.bidvoy.net/QX9650/164) because it's a top tier chip, and those tend to hold their value because of their ongoing usefulness as a way to squeeze a little more performance out of old systems. Notice also the X in the name: this designates it as a Core 2 Extreme processor, which–besides just being top of the line–means with it comes with an unlocked multiplier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't go into too much detail, but basically, it's easier to overclock these processors than ones with locked multipliers. Compared to processors from after the switch to QPI (anything after LGA 771/LGA 775/PGA 604), where effectively only unlocked processors (K, X) can be overclocked (base clock overclocking is difficult and largely ineffective at squeezing more performance these days), FSB overclocking was common and quite effective. This lead to less demand for chips with unlocked multipliers, and thus, even higher rarity of these chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Xeons processors tend to hit the used market in large quantities with low prices as server which aren't economical to run anymore because of high power consumption compared to newer processors are parted out after 5-10 years. Though the delta between old Core 2 Quads and their equivalent Xeons is falling as Core 2 Quads become increasingly obsolete even in consumer PCs and LGA 771 Xeon availability falls as the server supply dwindles, this still holds somewhat true, and very much so for newer Xeons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### LGA 771 &quot;modding'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the mainstream LGA 775 and server LGA 771 platforms are so similar, buying cheap Xeons salvaged from old servers and &quot;modding&quot; them to work in consumer motherboards allows better (higher base clocks and better binning), cheaper chips to be run in cheaper motherboards that support overclocking and other consumer features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does require modifications both to the chip and the motherboard in the form of a pad-flipping sticker and removing the CPU guides respectively. Though I won't go into too much depth as this isn't the focus of the answer, you can [read more about it here.](http://www.overclock.net/t/1431723/mod-lga775-support-for-lga771-xeon-cpus) Note that it is motherboard dependent: Nvidia based chipsets (650i, 680i, 780i, 790i) and some Intel chipsets (P35, P45, G31, G41) should work fine, while other Intel chipsets (X38, X48) only work with X33 series Xeons. Beyond this, some motherboards outright won't work anyways; the best you can do is Google if anyone else has had success with this (since the CPUs won't be on the QVL anyways), update your motherboard as much as possible, and give it a shot." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27557" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="cdcca604-4395-4a1c-990b-0535ca7134a0" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:54:55.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8649" RevisionGUID="28dc18bc-8c3d-4461-a7c5-25f5b4b1fd00" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:58:21.270" UserId="7556" Comment="added 173 characters in body" Text="# Because CPUBoss doesn't compare on pure performance basis, I wouldn't bother upgrading, the X5470 is better, high prices are a result of ease of use, it won't hurt anything but if it works depends on the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CPUBoss&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPUBoss doesn't evaluate from a pure performance, but rather a more wholistic perspective. For example, [the Core 2 Duo E8400 scores a 5.9 while the i7 5960X scores a 5.8](http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core2-Duo-E8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-5960X), despite the E8400 being worse by miles in every way except price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anecdotally, I've found that CPU/GPUBoss provide very poor metric for comparing hardware, outside of their aggregation of benchmarks and specifications (and even then, those are often lackluster compared to the original sources, i.e. GeekBench, Passmark, and ARK.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Which processor is better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend looking just at the Passmark numbers. The [X5470 wins with 4662](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Xeon+X5470+%40+3.33GHz) compared to the [Q8400's 3187.](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q8400+%40+2.66GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Is it worth the upgrade?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd say no. Compared to other LGA 775/LGA 771 processors and even newer platforms, the X5470 is incredibly expensive [at around $40.](https://us.bidvoy.net/x5470/164) You'd be better off jumping ship to a slightly newer platform, or investing in solid cooling (which can transfer in the future) and overclocking heavily. I won't go too in depth, but with more info on budget and requirements (read: another question) I'd be happy to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price of old processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Q8400 isn't expensive, at around $17.](https://us.bidvoy.net/Q8400/164) [The QX9650 is expensive at around $60](https://us.bidvoy.net/QX9650/164) because it's a top tier chip, and those tend to hold their value because of their ongoing usefulness as a way to squeeze a little more performance out of old systems. Notice also the X in the name: this designates it as a Core 2 Extreme processor, which–besides just being top of the line–means with it comes with an unlocked multiplier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't go into too much detail, but basically, it's easier to overclock these processors than ones with locked multipliers. Compared to processors from after the switch to QPI (anything after LGA 771/LGA 775/PGA 604), where effectively only unlocked processors (K, X) can be overclocked (base clock overclocking is difficult and largely ineffective at squeezing more performance these days), FSB overclocking was common and quite effective. This lead to less demand for chips with unlocked multipliers, and thus, even higher rarity of these chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Xeons processors tend to hit the used market in large quantities with low prices as server which aren't economical to run anymore because of high power consumption compared to newer processors are parted out after 5-10 years. Though the delta between old Core 2 Quads and their equivalent Xeons is falling as Core 2 Quads become increasingly obsolete even in consumer PCs and LGA 771 Xeon availability falls as the server supply dwindles, this still holds somewhat true, and very much so for newer Xeons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### LGA 771 &quot;modding'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the mainstream LGA 775 and server LGA 771 platforms are so similar, buying cheap Xeons salvaged from old servers and &quot;modding&quot; them to work in consumer motherboards allows better (higher base clocks and better binning), cheaper chips to be run in cheaper motherboards that support overclocking and other consumer features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does require modifications both to the chip and the motherboard in the form of a pad-flipping sticker and removing the CPU guides respectively. Though I won't go into too much depth as this isn't the focus of the answer, you can [read more about it here.](http://www.overclock.net/t/1431723/mod-lga775-support-for-lga771-xeon-cpus) Note that it is motherboard dependent: Nvidia based chipsets (650i, 680i, 780i, 790i) and some Intel chipsets (P35, P45, G31, G41) should work fine, while other Intel chipsets (X38, X48) only work with X33 series Xeons. Beyond this, some motherboards outright won't work anyways; the best you can do is Google if anyone else has had success with this (since the CPUs won't be on the QVL anyways), update your motherboard as much as possible, and give it a shot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This articles](https://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/3/) lists the E5472, X5460, X5450, E5420 (E0), L5420, E5405 as working with the mod and your motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27563" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8649" RevisionGUID="a8d32ba9-12d6-4f8d-af11-ab98299bd626" CreationDate="2018-01-02T03:55:03.217" UserId="7556" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Because CPUBoss doesn't compare on pure performance basis, I wouldn't bother upgrading, the X5470 is better, high prices are a result of ease of use, it won't hurt anything but if it works depends on the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CPUBoss&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPUBoss doesn't evaluate from a pure performance, but rather a more wholistic perspective. For example, [the Core 2 Duo E8400 scores a 5.9 while the i7 5960X scores a 5.8](http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core2-Duo-E8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-5960X), despite the E8400 being worse by miles in every way except price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anecdotally, I've found that CPU/GPUBoss provide very poor metric for comparing hardware, outside of their aggregation of benchmarks and specifications (and even then, those are often lackluster compared to the original sources, i.e. GeekBench, Passmark, and ARK.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Which processor is better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend looking just at the Passmark numbers. The [X5470 wins with 4662](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Xeon+X5470+%40+3.33GHz) compared to the [Q8400's 3187.](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q8400+%40+2.66GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Is it worth the upgrade?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd say no. Compared to other LGA 775/LGA 771 processors and even newer platforms, the X5470 is incredibly expensive [at around $40.](https://us.bidvoy.net/x5470/164) You'd be better off jumping ship to a slightly newer platform, or investing in solid cooling (which can transfer in the future) and overclocking heavily. I won't go too in depth, but with more info on budget and requirements (read: another question) I'd be happy to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price of old processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[The Q8400 isn't expensive, at around $17.](https://us.bidvoy.net/Q8400/164) [The QX9650 is expensive at around $60](https://us.bidvoy.net/QX9650/164) because it's a top tier chip, and those tend to hold their value because of their ongoing usefulness as a way to squeeze a little more performance out of old systems. Notice also the X in the name: this designates it as a Core 2 Extreme processor, which–besides just being top of the line–means with it comes with an unlocked multiplier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't go into too much detail, but basically, it's easier to overclock these processors than ones with locked multipliers. Compared to processors from after the switch to QPI (anything after LGA 771/LGA 775/PGA 604), where effectively only unlocked processors (K, X) can be overclocked (base clock overclocking is difficult and largely ineffective at squeezing more performance these days), FSB overclocking was common and quite effective. This lead to less demand for chips with unlocked multipliers, and thus, even higher rarity of these chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Xeons processors tend to hit the used market in large quantities with low prices as server which aren't economical to run anymore because of high power consumption compared to newer processors are parted out after 5-10 years. Though the delta between old Core 2 Quads and their equivalent Xeons is falling as Core 2 Quads become increasingly obsolete even in consumer PCs and LGA 771 Xeon availability falls as the server supply dwindles, this still holds somewhat true, and very much so for newer Xeons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### LGA 771 &quot;modding'&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the mainstream LGA 775 and server LGA 771 platforms are so similar, buying cheap Xeons salvaged from old servers and &quot;modding&quot; them to work in consumer motherboards allows better (higher base clocks and better binning), cheaper chips to be run in cheaper motherboards that support overclocking and other consumer features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does require modifications both to the chip and the motherboard in the form of a pad-flipping sticker and removing the CPU guides respectively. Though I won't go into too much depth as this isn't the focus of the answer, you can [read more about it here.](http://www.overclock.net/t/1431723/mod-lga775-support-for-lga771-xeon-cpus) Note that it is motherboard dependent: Nvidia based chipsets (650i, 680i, 780i, 790i) and some Intel chipsets (P35, P45, G31, G41) should work fine, while other Intel chipsets (X38, X48) only work with X33 series Xeons. Beyond this, some motherboards outright won't work anyways; the best you can do is Google if anyone else has had success with this (since the CPUs won't be on the QVL anyways), update your motherboard as much as possible, and give it a shot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This articles](https://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/3/) lists the E5472, X5460, X5450, E5420 (E0), L5420, E5405 as working with the mod and your motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8651" RevisionGUID="1819881c-d7a9-43ee-b023-9e03aefe6749" CreationDate="2018-01-02T05:19:41.097" UserId="7669" Text="I've noticed Apple screens (desktop and ipads) and recent laptops (including non Apple) produce better picture than any LCD monitors I can find. What kind of monitors should I look for that have same picture quality?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8651" RevisionGUID="1819881c-d7a9-43ee-b023-9e03aefe6749" CreationDate="2018-01-02T05:19:41.097" UserId="7669" Text="Need an LCD monitor that produces same picture as laptops and Apple screens" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8651" RevisionGUID="1819881c-d7a9-43ee-b023-9e03aefe6749" CreationDate="2018-01-02T05:19:41.097" UserId="7669" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27567" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="4c4041a3-16bf-4c10-a34d-db26d7ceab13" CreationDate="2018-01-02T07:59:00.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27568" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8652" RevisionGUID="bb81a388-1a15-4d0b-bba5-2873c795ec9f" CreationDate="2018-01-02T07:59:19.240" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: The Ryzen 1700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you stated server and used gear is out of the question, have no interest in the extra difficulty incurred by programming for GPUs/add in cards like Knight's Landing, and AVX-512 is currently limited to the expensive Skylake-X platform, it's basically a straight comparison of multithreaded performance at that price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Looking at a list of processors near this price point, it's pretty easy to see that the Ryzen 1700X and 1700 come out on top.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu/#X=24362,36592&amp;sort=-cores&amp;k=33,30,28,36&amp;page=1) The only other 8 core is the Xeon E5-2609 V4 which runs at a measly 1.7GHz on the older X99 platform, and the only processor the comes close in Passmark, the hexacore i7-6850K, still loses to the cheaper 1700X [14621](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Ryzen+7+1700X) to [14375](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-6850K+%40+3.60GHz). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since none of these platforms use DDR3, there's no real advantage towards shifting towards one platform based on memory. Though there may be a slight platform cost incurred by the need for faster memory with Zen processors (especially with RAM prices so high right now), this is relatively small and outweighed heavily by the cheaper motherboard cost–A320 is a perfectly valid option since you're not overclocking–though you may find that a slightly more expensive B350 board provides some nice creature comforts for just a few bucks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8653" RevisionGUID="4c6ec517-588c-4f5f-8745-5220a1229326" CreationDate="2018-01-02T08:42:05.117" UserId="7670" Text="I need to replace my trusty macbook air 11 because it's 7 years old and only has 2GB RAM but I'm struggling to find a replacement. I need enough power to run SQL server and Visual Studio and I'd rather go for a windows laptop (at the moment I'm dual-booting)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I'm reluctant to go any bigger than my current one - the dell XPS 13 seems much too large, but all the 11 inch windows laptops seem to be cheap and low-powered&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA for any recommendations&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27570" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8653" RevisionGUID="4c6ec517-588c-4f5f-8745-5220a1229326" CreationDate="2018-01-02T08:42:05.117" UserId="7670" Text="Alternative to Macbook air 11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27571" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8653" RevisionGUID="4c6ec517-588c-4f5f-8745-5220a1229326" CreationDate="2018-01-02T08:42:05.117" UserId="7670" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27572" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8652" RevisionGUID="c188c244-54ae-4e09-8085-8044449e21c7" CreationDate="2018-01-02T09:44:39.187" UserId="7556" Comment="added 1252 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: The Ryzen 1700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you stated server and used gear is out of the question, have no interest in the extra difficulty incurred by programming for GPUs/add in cards like Knight's Landing, and AVX-512 is currently limited to the expensive Skylake-X platform, it's basically a straight comparison of multithreaded performance at that price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Looking at a list of processors near this price point, the Ryzen 1700X and 1700 come out on top in core count.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu/#X=24362,36592&amp;sort=-cores&amp;k=33,30,28,36&amp;page=1) The only other 8 core is the Xeon E5-2609 V4 which runs at a measly 1.7GHz on the older X99 platform. Intel's similar hexacores at this price point are the i7-6850K and i5-8600k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Processor   | Passmark | UserBenchmark | Userbenchmark FP | Geekbench 4 | Geekbench 4 FP*&#xD;&#xA;    ––––––––––––|––––––––––|–––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––|–––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen 1700  | 13745    | 1120          | 1136             | 20067       | 24993*&#xD;&#xA;    Ryzen 1700X | 14619    | 1171          | 1189             | 20987       | 24806*&#xD;&#xA;    i7-6850K    | 14374    | 946           | 1014             | 21792       | 25820*&#xD;&#xA;    i5-8600k    | 12811    | 787           | 815              | 22426       | 26724*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;*A note on the Geekbench FP scores: since Geekbench doesn't provide averages for FP scores, I selected a given run with the closest-to-average run on the first page of search results run on a computer with a valid identity on an aftermarket motherboard at stock frequencies. [Ryzen 1700](https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5992028), [Ryzen 1700X](https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/6000778), [i7-6850K](https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5826916), [i5-8600k](https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5979305).&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As shown by these benchmarks, there's a bit of a smattering of who's on top. Geekbench leans towards Intel's single threaded performance being king, while Userbenchmark leans towards Ryzen's cores. Without a benchmark using your workload, it's impossible to tell exactly how things will bench, but I'm inclined to lean towards more cores with a slower individual clock for your workload.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since none of these platforms use DDR3, there's no real advantage towards shifting towards one platform based on memory. Though there may be a slight platform cost incurred by the need for faster memory with Zen processors (especially with RAM prices so high right now), this is relatively small and outweighed heavily by the cheaper motherboard cost–A320 is a perfectly valid option since you're not overclocking–though you may find that a slightly more expensive B350 board provides some nice creature comforts for just a few bucks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27573" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="8b66a52e-4f77-47fb-a84c-a4ec89f9c91d" CreationDate="2018-01-02T09:59:04.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8646" RevisionGUID="0dfa7044-22f3-4d6f-b6f0-2aada97d2f3d" CreationDate="2018-01-02T14:00:21.370" UserId="7667" Comment="removed requests based on comments" Text="My notebook stopped working and, seen that I mainly use it as a desktop computer, I'd rather buy a desktop computer this time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with the need to buy a tablet, that will be used for the following tasks:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reading PDF files. The task involves continuonusly switching between different pages (views) and files, without hyperlinks.&#xD;&#xA; - Showing pictures to people.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing the Internet, in wi-fi covered areas (and possibly on a stand). Mom will probably browse recipes while cooking, I hope she won't smear the poor thing with food.&#xD;&#xA; - Writing in sites like this one.&#xD;&#xA; - Use my desktop PC through some app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only one that is really necessary is the first one, most others I can do at the desktop PC if necessary. As a consequence, I have been suggested to aim for at least 10&quot; and good resolution.&#xD;&#xA;Note how I don't need a camera or phone connectivity and I don't care much about weight or to how the device looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to spend as low as I can without sacrificing durability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device will be used at home mainly, so a battery that does not degrade over time is better than a battery that lasts a lot for each single charge (and then, power banks to the rescue if it needs be).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The item must be available for sale via Internet, from a reliable supplier (I consider Amazon to be reliable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;___&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feel free to ask me for more details if needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8654" RevisionGUID="7aeef3f0-6502-4366-be7e-030ff2a60f41" CreationDate="2018-01-02T14:29:29.450" UserId="1800" Text="I seem to have endless problems with inkjet printers, and I'm not entirely sure why. I'm well aware that the whole printer market works on a topsy-turvey model driven by selling as much expensive ink refills as possible, but that doesn't wholly explain the issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't, generally, use a printer very often. When I wanted to, it seemed almost every time it would complain about some shortage of ink and refuse to print. If I wanted a grayscale output, it'd fail to print because it was out of cyan or something. If I wanted to print an image in black and white, it'd fail because the larger black &quot;text&quot; cartridge was empty. To get things to work, I had to buy a whole new set of cartiridges every few documents, which seemed ludicrous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried buying well-reviewed printers and that didn't seem to make any difference. Then I read somewhere that inkjet printers had a problem with infrequent use - the ink dried out. That seemed to explain the issue. However the recommended solution - a laser printer - wasn't helpful. I could afford one, but they're too big to fit anywhere in my modest house. Miniature ones seem not to exist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speaking to friends and family however, made me doubt myself. No-one else seems to have these problems with inkjet printers. Was it me, trying to refil them with budget inks? I don't know any more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As my kids have gotten older, they've needed a printer at home more and more frequently, and my inkjets have always failed them. Now my current model (a Canon) has actually bust and I need a new one. Ideally it will have a built in scanner too. But most of all I just want a printer that I can go to and use when needed - even if there are large gaps between use - and have it work! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am happy to pay a premium for this if necessary, and I am happy to pay for a laser printer if one exists that's about the same size as a large inkjet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8654" RevisionGUID="7aeef3f0-6502-4366-be7e-030ff2a60f41" CreationDate="2018-01-02T14:29:29.450" UserId="1800" Text="A printer that works consistently when needed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8654" RevisionGUID="7aeef3f0-6502-4366-be7e-030ff2a60f41" CreationDate="2018-01-02T14:29:29.450" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7702" RevisionGUID="e8545156-d9cc-4d46-a331-e1b456f4dd7a" CreationDate="2018-01-02T15:36:22.607" UserId="4350" Comment="added 725 characters in body" Text="The other answer was very helpful, and it opened up a whole set of options I didn't know about. Unfortunately most options are keyboards that are either custom made or have to be ordered internationally. This would mean a lot less favorable return conditions (if at all) should I not be satisfied. So I looked for something I could get in my own country first, where you can almost always return stuff within 2 weeks for a full refund.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So that's for context, and the reason I ended up skipping on the [Anne Pro][1], [CODE][2] and [WASD][3], the [Varmilo VB87M][4] (which is kinda similar to what I end up recommending), and several others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've now bought and am very happy with my **[CM Storm QuickFire TK (Red)][5]**, and I would recommend it to others with requirements similar to those in the question. Here's how it stacks up against the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Full-size shift keys on both sides&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Straight layout&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Tactile marks on F and J keys&#xD;&#xA;- ± Compact but not tiny (it's 378 x 138 mm)&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ No trackpad&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Mechanical switches. Cherry Red.&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Clearly separated F-keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Should haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✗ &lt;strike&gt;Wireless&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Under $100 &#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Basic media keys &#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Cursor keys &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It actually has a mixed 10-key-pad and cursor keys with Home/etc keys, and the NUMLK key determines which of the two it uses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ Not too loud&#xD;&#xA;- ✗ &lt;strike&gt;Wrist-rest&lt;/strike&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- ✔ N-Key rollover&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it's the more compact Corsair K70 I said I was looking for, as you can see in this photo:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![comparison between CM Storm Quickfire TK and Corsair K70][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Afterthought after a few months&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, a few months after having bought the CM keyboard, I will mention that' I'd still recommend it for my mentioned situation. However, to mention some downsides that I did notice after a few months of usage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It's really kinda heavy for carrying it along with a laptop (size is okay though)&#xD;&#xA;- The volume up/down requiring the &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key doesn't feel right, the scroll-wheel on my K70 is far superior&#xD;&#xA;- The &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key locks after pressing it for a few secs, which happens often when e.g. changing volume, and [there is apparently no fix for that](http://community.coolermaster.com/topic/13685-quickfire-tk-annoying-fn-lock/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again though, I'd still recommend it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Pro-Bluetooth-Backlight-Smartphone/dp/B06XW87X9D&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-1860.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-87-key-doubleshot-pbt-carbon-black-mechanical-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1674&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00AOIRCI6&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPPlt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8653" RevisionGUID="1c2bde9e-56e6-4607-827b-d0320bc8e449" CreationDate="2018-01-02T16:07:30.973" UserId="7670" Comment="added 301 characters in body" Text="I need to replace my trusty macbook air 11 because it's 7 years old and only has 2GB RAM but I'm struggling to find a replacement. I need enough power to run SQL server and Visual Studio and I'd rather go for a windows laptop (at the moment I'm dual-booting)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I'm reluctant to go any bigger than my current one - the dell XPS 13 seems much too large, but all the 11 inch windows laptops seem to be cheap and low-powered&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's for occasional &quot;emergency&quot; development and support purposes so doesn't have to be that powerful, but I think a cheap 11 inch one would only have a limited lifespan (both in terms of reliability and hardware spec) and I'd rather pay more for something that will get me through another 7 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA for any recommendations&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8657" RevisionGUID="b084f204-09e6-4247-86b5-976985b3fe6b" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:37:33.530" UserId="7266" Text="I'm currently building a Qi-compatible receiver for my Raspberry Pi 3, but I still want it to have a port for a regular power supply. Is there any &quot;splitter&quot; out there that plugs into the micro-usb power port on the Raspberry Pi 3 and splits it into two micro-usb ports for power?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8657" RevisionGUID="b084f204-09e6-4247-86b5-976985b3fe6b" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:37:33.530" UserId="7266" Text="Micro-usb splitter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8657" RevisionGUID="b084f204-09e6-4247-86b5-976985b3fe6b" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:37:33.530" UserId="7266" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8658" RevisionGUID="b45585e5-ee0c-4e5d-82c2-18462a8afb61" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:57:16.570" UserId="7673" Text="I'm looking to buy an 8+ bay, rackmount NAS device.  One of the features I'd like is full drive encryption using self encrypting drives (SEDs) and a trusted platform module (TPM).  Does anyone make such a thing?  Synology does not.  It's looking like Seagate does not either (which is weird, since they manufacture SEDs).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8658" RevisionGUID="b45585e5-ee0c-4e5d-82c2-18462a8afb61" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:57:16.570" UserId="7673" Text="Do any NAS devices support full disk encryption using a TPM and SEDs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8658" RevisionGUID="b45585e5-ee0c-4e5d-82c2-18462a8afb61" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:57:16.570" UserId="7673" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8659" RevisionGUID="09b836f6-5c93-4a6d-a096-786f039dc094" CreationDate="2018-01-02T22:13:11.903" UserId="7673" Text="I would go with a laser printer.  You can get black/white or color laser printers.  The color laser printers are true laser printers.  They contain 4 toner cartridges.  Many laser printers are available as part of a multi-function device, where you can print, scan and fax.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now.... some laser printers are vastly cheaper to operate than others.  For example, I have an old HP M2727nf.  This is a black/white multi function printer.  It takes HP toner cartridges.  HP uses a 4 digit code for cartridges.  Some printers can accommodate high capacity toner cartridges and HP (and 3rd parties) make these cartridges and they are suffixed with the letter X.  For example, 1234 and 1234X.  1234X is the high capacity cartridge.  My M2727nf printer can print about 7,000 impressions on one high capacity cartridge.  These cost about $20 (3rd party), so each impression costs .285 cents.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an HP color laser printer.  The cartridges for this are much more expensive and there are no high capacity cartridges available.  Impressions on this printer are around 10 cents a page, so the older printer is around 50 times cheaper to operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So you could buy a new laser printer that takes high capacity toner cartridges and you should be able to print for well under a penny a page." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27600" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8662" RevisionGUID="ba263c0f-6ebc-4977-9eec-d48751dd1453" CreationDate="2018-01-03T02:09:06.937" UserId="5440" Text="Like @mbmast says in the comments, it might be more logical to have a full AV Receiver. That is the device that is meant to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But as for a TV, I think that the 2017 Visio P55-E1 ticks most, if not all, your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.vizio.com/tvs/pseries/p55e1.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8663" RevisionGUID="89f0f0ba-1707-4ca2-8f96-691cfe39bcc0" CreationDate="2018-01-03T02:56:18.130" UserId="5440" Text="As all these kind of questions...there is no 1+1 answer...and honestly any 10&quot;, $150 and up, tablet should be good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But for really good resolution and adequate battery size, I'd suggest one of the 2 (depending on how much you're willing to shell out):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The [**ASUS ZenPad 3S 10 9.7&quot;**][1] for $284&#xD;&#xA; 2. The (flagship) [**Samsung Galaxy Tab S3 9.7&quot;**][2] for somewhat below $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MATMXZV/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&amp;ascsub&amp;th=1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=44043ee26146a585efc9e63622c796e6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTGLBP5/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=e099e8aa4e2242dfa136276d13d56237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8665" RevisionGUID="5da8dc13-df42-4f54-8ed8-128223d2b646" CreationDate="2018-01-03T04:36:17.887" UserId="7676" Text="The used market is awash w/nice OC mboards and CPUs. Intel's i7-980X cpu in their DX58XSO will save you $$$ and enable you to use your GTX1060. The chipset on the DX58SO has OC performance adjustments for bus, cpu, mem, etc., in BIOS. All this is available on the used market for pennies on the dollar. Some places even sell warranties for a little cash. You already know some research/reading the specs to assure this will fit your need is a MUST DO!. :-) Your DDR3 1600Mhz will wrk in the board and perhaps can be OCd. Look to possibly find an improved monitor for high refresh and Mhz to shoot at 38xx X 26xx DPI. AS you have mentined, BUDGET determines the buy :-). Happy unprades and good succes.  TTYL Martin in G'ville" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27606" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8666" RevisionGUID="d229b398-eac8-43fe-975d-2c474181e1f0" CreationDate="2018-01-03T06:12:19.830" UserId="7556" Text="## TL;DR: The All New Fire HD 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since price seems to be a major concern for you, I'm going to sacrifice in it's name. However, I think this should still pass quite fine for what you're doing, if not excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the Fire, some cons are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low res screen (only 1920x1200 for a 10.1&quot; device = 224.17 PPI, about 85% of an iPad Pro 10.5&quot; and about 48% of an iPhone X)&#xD;&#xA; - Fairly low storage capacity&#xD;&#xA; - No cellular capability&#xD;&#xA; - Very slightly slow (roughly 75% of the Apple A10X Fusion in the most recent iPad Pro, only 2GB of memory)&#xD;&#xA; - Runs Fire OS, and getting &quot;normal&quot; Android things (like the Google Play store) is [very possible, but takes a bit of extra work.](https://lifehacker.com/how-to-get-google-play-on-a-kindle-fire-and-install-any-1790706649)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Besides that though, it's actually a surprisingly good device. It has an IPS display, proper dual band AC wireless solution, Bluetooth, a microSD slot (a real rarity these days) to mitigate the storage issue, a surprisingly good battery, is very rugged, and **costs a mere $150** for the 32GB model, basically creaming anything at that price point and size. Compared especially to the old Fire HD 10, it's amazing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going over your requirements briefly then:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Reading PDF files: Yes. It's a Kindle. If there's one thing it can do, it's read books.&#xD;&#xA; - Showing pictures to people: Yes, though your app of choice may not be available without a little extra effort.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing the Internet: Yes, and has a pretty good wireless solution to boot&#xD;&#xA; - Use a desktop PC remotely: Yes; I recommend [TeamViewer](https://www.amazon.com/TeamViewer-for-Remote-Control/dp/B006LRUVUA), which is available on the Amazon store as well (free!)&#xD;&#xA; - 10&quot; screen: Yes&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: Not awful, but not great&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap price: Yes, incredibly.&#xD;&#xA; - Durability: Yes, it's actually market heavily as a durable tablet.&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: It's going to degrade as much as any other lithium-ion (they're all basically the same), but it should do a solid 8-10 hours on a charge. It also won't throttle when the battery begins to degrade too much (looking at you, Apple.)&#xD;&#xA; - Reputable retailer: It's literally an Amazon product.&#xD;&#xA; - Physical keyboard: Yes, either with the (rather expensive) [$60 official flush keyboard](https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-WK45B2-Fire-Keyboard/dp/B00KYFWDLU) or any generic Bluetooth keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; - Anti-reflective screen: Very few devices use matte screens these days, your best bet is a matte screen protector. They're available on the extremely cheap (&lt;$10) [from Amazon as well.](http://a.co/fB4smFD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8667" RevisionGUID="99d635ab-2f79-4154-bf02-72daaf4ac406" CreationDate="2018-01-03T11:42:01.647" UserId="7681" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to the fact that my old EeePC is next to end of life (which was running with Ubuntu for 7 years) I plan to buy a similar small device as replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thereby, my focus lies in the Detachable/Convertible 2in1 type of tablet. But not the ones were you flip the keyboard 360 degree around. I recoginzed that on most of the current devices the Linux support is very limited and google only gives my results for more than 3 year old devices where it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So does anybody can suggest such a device, like the Lenovo Miix 320, which works properly with linux, (some hacks during install are ok, but touch screen, battery state, sound, and Wifi should work) and is state of the art (not a device of pre 2016).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27609" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8667" RevisionGUID="99d635ab-2f79-4154-bf02-72daaf4ac406" CreationDate="2018-01-03T11:42:01.647" UserId="7681" Text="Detachble / Convertible 2in1 with proper Linux/Ubuntu support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27610" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8667" RevisionGUID="99d635ab-2f79-4154-bf02-72daaf4ac406" CreationDate="2018-01-03T11:42:01.647" UserId="7681" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8668" RevisionGUID="c1a1bfd7-151e-4fba-85eb-f8432d225d13" CreationDate="2018-01-03T16:28:20.360" UserId="5224" Text="I am looking for a cell phone with very long battery life. I value long battery life so much that I am willing to sacrifice every feature **except** for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Basic calling/texting abilities&#xD;&#xA; - *Modern* (**html5**) web browsing abilities (Must be able to play YouTube, Vimeo, check account balances, browse Wikipedia, etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - Would like for it to at least be able to pinpoint my location and show it to me, but turn-by-turn navigation is not needed (i don't even use it when available as eyeballing the map is easy enough)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be capable of syncing with Ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not care about the operating system or form factor as long as it gets the job done." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27612" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8668" RevisionGUID="c1a1bfd7-151e-4fba-85eb-f8432d225d13" CreationDate="2018-01-03T16:28:20.360" UserId="5224" Text="What cell phone (with some qualifiers) has the longest battery life?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27613" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8668" RevisionGUID="c1a1bfd7-151e-4fba-85eb-f8432d225d13" CreationDate="2018-01-03T16:28:20.360" UserId="5224" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27614" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8668" RevisionGUID="164ab9e9-037d-465f-b77a-5857a10959cd" CreationDate="2018-01-03T16:36:24.847" UserId="5224" Comment="added 52 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a cell phone with very long battery life. I value long battery life so much that I am willing to sacrifice every feature **except** for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Basic calling/texting abilities&#xD;&#xA; - *Modern* (**html5**) web browsing abilities (Must be able to play YouTube, Vimeo, check account balances, browse Wikipedia, etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - Would like for it to at least be able to pinpoint my location and show it to me, but turn-by-turn navigation is not needed (i don't even use it when available as eyeballing the map is easy enough)&#xD;&#xA; - Must be capable of &lt;s&gt;syncing&lt;/s&gt; transferring photograph &amp; audio files to and from Ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not care about the operating system or form factor as long as it gets the job done." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27615" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="3f6e1a79-adfd-489f-b489-651434003307" CreationDate="2018-01-03T19:20:45.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8669" RevisionGUID="7ba431db-7940-4be1-b4e6-dfb6ecee3ed8" CreationDate="2018-01-03T20:06:56.667" UserId="7125" Text="I am looking at a combo on NewEgg, https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.3579279,  that has the following pieces:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake Quad-Core 4.2 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ASRock Z270 KILLER SLI/AC MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Phanteks Eclipse P400 Series Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- EVGA 700 B1 100-B1-0700-K1 700W PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 250GB SSD, CM H100i V2 Cooler&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a bit confused because the i7 and the ASRock motherboard both specify DDR4 2400 RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at other questions I found a link to the Crucial memory and one of the suggested alternatives is Ballistix Tactical 4GB DDR4-2666 UDIMM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the speed, such as DDR4 2400 just a suggestion and faster can be used or what?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8669" RevisionGUID="7ba431db-7940-4be1-b4e6-dfb6ecee3ed8" CreationDate="2018-01-03T20:06:56.667" UserId="7125" Text="Can I use DDR4 3000 rather than DDR4 2400 with ASRock Z270 Killer and I7-7700K kaby Lake" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8669" RevisionGUID="7ba431db-7940-4be1-b4e6-dfb6ecee3ed8" CreationDate="2018-01-03T20:06:56.667" UserId="7125" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="5698405c-0caa-4cfb-a8c6-35d70f084c1e" CreationDate="2018-01-03T22:25:02.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27620" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="e35ee7a0-9eb3-4543-b2b1-99fffdd6af67" CreationDate="2018-01-03T23:37:02.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8670" RevisionGUID="abc3bb3b-9942-4224-ba83-c7ee54517ee6" CreationDate="2018-01-04T01:46:16.147" UserId="7683" Text="My Moto z is great, especially if you buy the battery mod attachment. It's big, and a bit heavy, but it usually lasts at least the day and into the next morning before I have to charge, depending on how much use it has (if it isn't used a lot, I'm sure it'll last quite a bit longer). I like this phone otherwise for the awesome camera, and decent interface. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27622" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8671" RevisionGUID="483c210d-dda8-4c5d-ac5f-7a108ff78096" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:09:46.953" UserId="5440" Text="You can find several Androids with great battery life. The longest seems to be the **ASUS ZenFone 3 Zoom** ($319 [on **Amazon**][1]), Which Tom's Guide called in June, [**&quot;Longest Battery Life Ever&quot;**][2]. And it is a pretty capable phone in every sense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something a bit more expansive and not as good battery life, but still above average, is the [**Blackberry -Android running- Key One**][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And at last, if this is such an important thing for you, just take some time and read some guides to familiarize yourself with all the ways to make sure to get out the most of the battery that you have. A guide like [**How to make your Android smartphone's battery last longer**][4] from the good folks at **Android Pit** can help a lot! And you can even experiment with turning On **Battery Saver Mode** (usually turns On when the phone is low battery) the whole time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ZenFone-Storage-Unlocked-Smartphone-Android/dp/B06XW6SJF8/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B06XW6SJF8&amp;creativeASIN=B06XW6SJF8&amp;linkId=1ba6998d3f1929ea86a4025c926f92cf&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkCode=w58&amp;ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FZenfone-ZE553KL-S625-3G32G-BK-Unlocked-Camera-Warranty%2Fdp%2FB06XW6SJF8&amp;slotNum=1&amp;imprToken=5mPjNXNy2MY.vJ-dqOrPiw&amp;adType=smart&amp;adMode=manual&amp;adFormat=card&amp;impressionTimestamp=1515034656312&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomsguide.com/us/asus-zenfone3-zoom,review-4367.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/BlackBerry-Unlocked-Android-Smartphone-T-Mobile/dp/B06ZYGDY4P/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=58e7111773de74b0b6e302078b265839&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.androidpit.com/how-to-save-battery-life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8672" RevisionGUID="52b8cd23-2d37-4110-b464-fbb51c98a7e7" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:25:00.083" UserId="219" Text="I can't seem to find any certified cables over 10ft let alone the few that specify a version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably I need one that is `&gt; 10ft` but could be `&lt;= 15ft`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At minimum it just needs to support `1.2a` but I'd prefer `1.3` or `1.4`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My GPU supports 1.4 but current monitor only supports 1.2 *(&amp; AMD FreeSync)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cable needs to support `2560x1440@60`." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8672" RevisionGUID="52b8cd23-2d37-4110-b464-fbb51c98a7e7" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:25:00.083" UserId="219" Text="Longest certified DisplayPort cable that supports AMD FreeSync" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8672" RevisionGUID="52b8cd23-2d37-4110-b464-fbb51c98a7e7" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:25:00.083" UserId="219" Text="&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8673" RevisionGUID="c7668f11-d15c-46f4-807d-9bc6eb8d7364" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:36:54.177" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Active cables, choose a length.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normal DisplayPort (passive) cables cap out at 3 meters. These cables are basically just bundles of copper with connectors at each end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you can get more expensive active cables that use electronics built into the cable to extend the range. [These cap out at 33 meters](https://www.engadget.com/2011/06/22/displayport-1-2-adds-active-cable-support-brings-longer-cords/), though the longest I could find for sale is [15 meters.](https://www.startech.com/Cables/Audio-Video/DisplayPort/15m-Active-DisplayPort-Cable-M-M~DISPL15MA) Note that these really are expensive though, with that cable costing about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because these cables have built in electronics, make sure you read the specifications for each cable to ensure compatibility. FreeSync should be good pretty much no matter what, but check resolution, audio, directionality, and HDCP support. The 15m cable I linked supports a unidirectional 2560x1600@60Hz signal with audio and HDCP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that's not enough for  you, you can also use an optical Thunderbolt cable, which can carry (among other things) a DisplayPort connection up to 60m. It [does cost $1000 though.](https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Cables-Corning-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort/dp/B01BX6KAOK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8673" RevisionGUID="05dbf704-d459-4d62-9a28-37b927a79786" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:43:25.580" UserId="7556" Comment="added 292 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Active cables, choose a length.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normal DisplayPort (passive) cables cap out at 3 meters. These cables are basically just bundles of copper with connectors at each end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you can get more expensive active cables that use electronics built into the cable to extend the range. [These cap out at 33 meters](https://www.engadget.com/2011/06/22/displayport-1-2-adds-active-cable-support-brings-longer-cords/), though the longest I could find for sale is [15 meters.](https://www.startech.com/Cables/Audio-Video/DisplayPort/15m-Active-DisplayPort-Cable-M-M~DISPL15MA) Note that these really are expensive though, with that cable costing about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because these cables have built in electronics, make sure you read the specifications for each cable to ensure compatibility. FreeSync should be good pretty much no matter what, but check resolution, audio, directionality, and HDCP support. The 15m cable I linked supports a unidirectional 2560x1600@60Hz signal with audio and HDCP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If for some reason you need to go more than 15m, there are also [optical DisplayPort cables](http://www.dvigear.com/cables-dp-aoc.html), starting at $270 for 3 meters and going to $1750 for 100 meters. If you start getting concerned about caring other data along for the ride, you could use an optical Thunderbolt cable, which along with other data, can carry a DisplayPort connection up to 60m. [It does cost $1000 though.](https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Cables-Corning-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort/dp/B01BX6KAOK) Other slightly more sensible solutions might be [DisplayPort over CAT5](https://www.cablestogo.com/category/displayport/displayport-extenders) or [more generic DisplayPort to optical](http://www.gefen.com/product/displayport-extender-over-two-lc-fiber-optic-cables-EXT-DP-CP-2FO) converters." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27628" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8673" RevisionGUID="5d87c2b3-d1c3-4b02-a28e-84097bb8cfa6" CreationDate="2018-01-04T03:49:12.263" UserId="7556" Comment="added 292 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Active cables, choose a length.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normal DisplayPort (passive) cables cap out at 3 meters. These cables are basically just bundles of copper with connectors at each end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you can get more expensive active cables that use electronics built into the cable to extend the range. [These cap out at 33 meters](https://www.engadget.com/2011/06/22/displayport-1-2-adds-active-cable-support-brings-longer-cords/), though the longest I could find for sale is [15 meters.](https://www.startech.com/Cables/Audio-Video/DisplayPort/15m-Active-DisplayPort-Cable-M-M~DISPL15MA) Note that these really are expensive though, with that cable costing about $80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because these cables have built in electronics, make sure you read the specifications for each cable to ensure compatibility. FreeSync should be good pretty much no matter what, but check resolution, audio, directionality, and HDCP support. The 15m cable I linked supports a unidirectional 2560x1600@60Hz signal with audio and HDCP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If for some reason you need to go more than 15m, you can run [DisplayPort over CAT5](https://www.cablestogo.com/category/displayport/displayport-extenders). If you've got money to burn, or need to maintain a high bandwith connection an extremely long distance, there are [optical DisplayPort cables](http://www.dvigear.com/cables-dp-aoc.html) and [more generic DisplayPort to optical](http://www.gefen.com/product/displayport-extender-over-two-lc-fiber-optic-cables-EXT-DP-CP-2FO) converters, starting at $270 for 3 meters and going to $1750 for 100 meters or $1000 flat for the converters. If you start getting concerned about caring other data along for the ride, you could use an optical Thunderbolt cable, which along with other data, can carry a DisplayPort connection up to 60m. [It does cost $1000 though.](https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Cables-Corning-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort/dp/B01BX6KAOK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8674" RevisionGUID="e0830b20-5249-4c49-bda8-9de58820c79f" CreationDate="2018-01-04T04:29:10.983" UserId="7684" Text="I bought the HP Pavilion Slimline as an editing computer for my videos (which I record off of my PS4), but I want to get in to PC gaming. I only need to run CS:GO at 720p (hopefully under $100).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Quad-Core Pentium J3710&#xD;&#xA; - 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And it has an external 90w power supply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27630" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8674" RevisionGUID="e0830b20-5249-4c49-bda8-9de58820c79f" CreationDate="2018-01-04T04:29:10.983" UserId="7684" Text="Graphics card / power supply for prebuilt PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27631" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8674" RevisionGUID="e0830b20-5249-4c49-bda8-9de58820c79f" CreationDate="2018-01-04T04:29:10.983" UserId="7684" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8675" RevisionGUID="e6f75f73-20ee-4c36-9dd1-4d3a18a111e4" CreationDate="2018-01-04T06:22:26.353" UserId="7685" Text="I am looking for suggestions for laptops (ultrabooks are also okay, as long as they meet the requirements):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Kaby Lake &quot;8th&quot; Gen&#xD;&#xA;- Minimum 16GB, if it can be expanded to 32GB even better&#xD;&#xA;- NVMe 512 minimum, 1TB if it can be upgraded&#xD;&#xA;- Windows precision drivers for trackpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I am able to find a few that match the above, however, the next part is where I am having difficulties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nVidia 1060/1070; or some other video configuration that will allow me to play medium requirement games (like WoW and other Blizzard titles) at maximum quality without clipping or lag.&#xD;&#xA;- 14&quot; maximum display size - I need to carry it everyday, so a heavy 15&quot; is out of the question, unless its very portable.&#xD;&#xA;- Should be minimum full-hd, if its QHD or UHD even better&#xD;&#xA;- Touch / Pen is not a requirement&#xD;&#xA;- Matte display (nice to have, but if it has some other form of anti-glare then its okay, what I absolutely don't want is a glossy display)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to sustain at least 7 hours on battery&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable build&#xD;&#xA;- USB-C charging&#xD;&#xA;- Thunderbolt 3.1 (dual channel support - the maximum bandwidth possible)&#xD;&#xA;- Must be able to support 32&quot; (3840x2160 resolution) monitor with DP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far what I have looked at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 13&quot; Dell XPS&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;  - I currently use the previous edition of this laptop (the non 8th gen), everything is okay except in less than a year I have had to replace the battery and the keyboard; plus my unit has some finishing issues like it will not sit level on the desk. I am not sold on the fit and finish of it either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Surface Book&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - I almost settled on the 15&quot; one since its portable enough, but then I read reviews that the USB-C is only half-width and that the power adapter cannot charge the device if you are utilizing the hardware fully (especially with the dedicated VGA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- X1 Carbon / Yoga&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - A few colleagues have these, but the CPU + GPU is not what I want; other than that these are great&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Razer 14 / Blade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - Not sure about the build quality of these or if they are suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27633" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8675" RevisionGUID="e6f75f73-20ee-4c36-9dd1-4d3a18a111e4" CreationDate="2018-01-04T06:22:26.353" UserId="7685" Text="Laptop Suggestions - Long Term Upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27634" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8675" RevisionGUID="e6f75f73-20ee-4c36-9dd1-4d3a18a111e4" CreationDate="2018-01-04T06:22:26.353" UserId="7685" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27635" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="171081f4-9627-42f4-9076-1b7512d52b9d" CreationDate="2018-01-04T06:40:21.103" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8676" RevisionGUID="b1873fcb-6232-4581-b942-a8caf57af18c" CreationDate="2018-01-04T07:34:28.430" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Try it first. If it's not enough, trash it, buy a cheap LGA 775 tower and upgrade it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Your old tower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CS:GO is a pretty lightweight game, and if you really turn everything down, it can run on just about anything. [This guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt6Hv0xtfz8) should allow you to squeeze a little out, and–if you're willing to go a bit farther (though there's been some debate as to if this is VAC safe) [this guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2WYhqx56OA) should be able to help you get even a potato to run CS:GO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Normally I would post the information you need (at least roughly) here, but there's simply too much content.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there's only so much you can do, and if you're still unsatified with your performance, I can really only recommend getting a different PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm really not a fan of trashing hardware–anyone who knows me or has read my posts knows I'm a massive fan of upgrading and used hardware. The problem is there's almost nothing that can be done with your PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Problem 1: [Your CPU](https://ark.intel.com/products/91532/Intel-Pentium-Processor-J3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_64-GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To put it simply: it's too weak. Sure, it may be a quad core, and sure, it may boost up to 2.64 GHz, but with a 6.5W TDP, it is not a performer. CS:GO is heavily CPU dependent–especially single threaded performance–and this just can't keep up. It scores a mere [600 for a single thread in Passmark](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Pentium+J3710+%40+1.60GHz), getting thoroughly beaten by the 11-year-old Q6660, which scores a [924 without overclocking.](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q6600+%40+2.40GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Problem 2: CPU upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can't. Though the [spec page](https://ark.intel.com/products/91532/Intel-Pentium-Processor-J3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_64-GHz) doesn't exactly make it clear, looking at some other J3710 equipped motherboards shows they are clearly soldered down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Problem 3: GPU upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP prebuilt consumer towers are notorious for being annoying to install new GPUs into–however, even ignoring that, I can't recommend a GPU upgrade. There's almost zero information officially from HP as to if this is possible (I couldn't even find a picture of the motherboard), but we can makes some guesses. First, you're hard capped at 90W for your entire system, since as far as I can tell, the PSU is not upgradeable. This, combined with the fact that I wouldn't be surprised if your slot is capped at the lower 25W limit instead of the normal 75W limit as is fairly common among low end prebuilt, means I wouldn't trust anything above a [GT 1030](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=396&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1) to work. Though weak, the 1030 would still be enough for CS:GO. However, it costs $80–for which price, you can do much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## A &quot;new&quot; rig&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Base platform&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The key here is used components. We're going to start with a base platform. LGA 775 is old enough that they can be found really, really cheap, but is still good enough to provide an entry level experience. My personal choice is the [Optiplex 755](https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/opti_755_techspecs.pdf) with the [Optiplex 780](https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/optiplex_780_tech_guidebook_en.pdf) in second, but any tower with support for a Core 2 Quad should work just fine. You should be able to find one for sale for $5-25; here's [an eBay listing for $17.99](https://www.ebay.com/itm/312036494271). Your best bet to maximize value will be to search Craigslist and your local surplus markets (especially since you'll be able to save all that shipping cost); I find universities often have good stock of these older towers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CPU upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll need to check your platform first, but across the board, Core 2 Quads are very cheap. The Optiplex 755 can take a Q6600 (about [$8.50](https://www.ebay.com/itm/122877832307)), while the Optiplex 780 can take a Q8300 (about [$7.00](https://www.ebay.com/itm/152335223246).) You can also try overclocking a hair to squeeze a little more performance using [SetFSB](http://www.overclock.net/t/255892/setfsb-2-0).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Find the cheapest 4GB set of DDR2 available at the minimum speed required by your system. Make sure not to buy ECC or FBDIMM RAM, as these are not compatible. Craigslist may again be useful, or it may not. [Here's a 2x2GB set for $8.10](https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-2GB-Memory-RAM-DDR2-667-MHZ-PC2-5300-Non-ECC-Desktop-PC-DIMM-240-pin-W6H4/263335220576?hash=item3d50009560:g:br8AAOSwSutaEy-y).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### PSU upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buying cheap power supplies is never a great experience, but it'll have to do. Because there's so much variability, you'll need search around a bit. Check Craisglist and [/r/buildapcsales](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/). [Here's a CX450W for $17.99](https://redd.it/7ng5sm).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### GPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, there's going to be a bit of shopping around here–what you can get will also depend on what PSU you got. The [9800GT for around $13](https://us.bidvoy.net/9800gt/27386) should do the trick, but I'd recommend the [HD 5850 for around $25](https://us.bidvoy.net/hd_5850/27386) if you can spare, or the [HD 6950 for around $40](https://us.bidvoy.net/hd_6950/27386) if you'd like to step it up a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a little time and effort, you've put together a decent little gaming PC for $50-100! I guarantee you this will play better than trying to upgrade your old PC for the same cost." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27637" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8677" RevisionGUID="91010d93-c0fc-4717-8a08-d5213e276d25" CreationDate="2018-01-04T07:52:34.783" UserId="7686" Text="The [ASUS ROG GX700VO][1] has the following specs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Intel i7 6820HK Processor][2]&#xD;&#xA; - RAM up to DDR4 2800MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;Memory Types&quot; of [Intel i7 6820HK][2] are stated as &quot;DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866, DDR3L-1600&quot;, meaning to say the CPU can only support up to RAM speed of 2133. Isnt it a bit overkill to have a DDR4 up to 2800MHz?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/sg/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/ROG-GX700VO/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/88969/Intel-Core-i7-6820HK-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27638" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8677" RevisionGUID="91010d93-c0fc-4717-8a08-d5213e276d25" CreationDate="2018-01-04T07:52:34.783" UserId="7686" Text="ASUS ROG GX700VO RAM a mistake?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27639" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8677" RevisionGUID="91010d93-c0fc-4717-8a08-d5213e276d25" CreationDate="2018-01-04T07:52:34.783" UserId="7686" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27640" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8678" RevisionGUID="65427844-281c-4a06-a6f3-40055534ecca" CreationDate="2018-01-04T08:03:48.167" UserId="106" Text="I am looking for a machine to use as a home server for a few TB of files.  &#xA;I don't have a lot of physical room so I am looking for the most compact machine as possible.   &#xA;It is currently not possible to find 2.5-inch drives that can store several terabytes, so the PC should be able to receive one (or several) 3.5-inch drives.  &#xA;I want to install a few applications on it (media server for example), so a NAS is not a solution. I also don't have enough time to allocate for learning new OSes, and will stick to a Windows machine for now.  &#xA;Finally since I intend to leave the machine running constantly, a low power consumption, and silent design (fanless) are the last requirements.  &#xA;    &#xA;What is the most compact PC that fulfills those conditions (silent, several TB storage, runs media servers smoothly)? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27641" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8678" RevisionGUID="65427844-281c-4a06-a6f3-40055534ecca" CreationDate="2018-01-04T08:03:48.167" UserId="106" Text="Smallest PC that can store 3.5-inch HDDs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27642" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8678" RevisionGUID="65427844-281c-4a06-a6f3-40055534ecca" CreationDate="2018-01-04T08:03:48.167" UserId="106" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;htpc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8679" RevisionGUID="35c5b487-a8dc-4ed1-9594-f5cde94b88d7" CreationDate="2018-01-04T08:20:35.043" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: It will run at that speed, and it will be an asset in some workloads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Memory overclocking and XMP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel specifies that their CPUs (here, the [7700K](https://ark.intel.com/products/97129/Intel-Core-i7-7700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_50-GHz)) are guaranteed to work with DDR4-2133/2400, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V. Anything beyond that isn't officially part of their specifications, or guaranteed to work. However, in practice, it will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's going on here is overclocking–basically, pushing stuff beyond it's manufacturer rated speeds. This practice isn't unsafe, and, in the case of memory, is basically supported by the manufacturer. Here, the RAM manufacturer certifies that the RAM will work at 2666 MHz. Though the motherboard manufacturer only guarantees that RAM at 2133/2400 MHz will work, [it supports overclocking up to 3733 MHz and beyond](https://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Z270%20Killer%20SLIac/index.asp) (and effectively guarantees it will work.) Similarly, Intel allows their CPUs to work with overclocked RAM (and effectively guarantees it will work.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because memory overclocking takes work, Intel created something called XMP, or Extreme Memory Profile. Basically, this is a list of settings stored on the memory modules that tell the motherboard what speeds it says it can overclock to and what timings it needs to do so. Most motherboards will then automatically discover and load those settings, though some may require manual configuration. The end result is the same though: the memory runs at its &quot;overclocked&quot; speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### RAM speed as an asset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I won't dive into it too much, how much–if at all–RAM speed matters depends on your workload. [This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk) does a much better job examining it then I could ever do, but the basic conclusion is that it matters a little in some games (more on Ryzen then other platforms) and varies widely for other workloads. If you're building for gaming, don't sweat it too much; if you're building for some other task, Google around and see what other people have experienced." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8680" RevisionGUID="5eec9fcf-822f-4351-98b4-d27dbf12679f" CreationDate="2018-01-04T08:24:52.600" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Maybe sort of, but not for the reason you're thinking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Memory overclocking and XMP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel specifies that their CPUs (here, the [6820HK](https://ark.intel.com/products/88969/Intel-Core-i7-6820HK-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz)) are guaranteed to work with DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866, and DDR3L-1600. Anything beyond that isn't officially part of their specifications, or guaranteed to work. However, in practice, it will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's going on here is overclocking–basically, pushing stuff beyond it's manufacturer rated speeds. This practice isn't unsafe, and, in the case of memory, is basically supported by the manufacturer. Here, the RAM manufacturer certifies that the RAM will work at 2800 MHz, and the motherboard manufacturer certifies that the motherboard can support overclocking memory to those speeds. Similarly, Intel allows their CPUs to work with overclocked RAM (and effectively guarantees it will work.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because memory overclocking takes work, Intel created something called XMP, or Extreme Memory Profile. Basically, this is a list of settings stored on the memory modules that tell the motherboard what speeds it says it can overclock to and timings are required, then loads (usually automatically) those settings. Though this isn't really as important for your system (since it's a prebuilt), the technology is the same as any desktop, and is still applicable if you decide to upgrade your memory down the line. The end result is the same though: the memory runs at its &quot;overclocked&quot; speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### RAM speed as an asset&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I won't dive into it too much, how much–if at all–RAM speed matters depends on your workload. [This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk) does a much better job examining it then I could ever do, but the basic conclusion is that it matters a little in some games (more on Ryzen then other platforms) and varies widely for other workloads. If you're building for gaming, don't sweat it too much; if you're building for some other task, Google around and see what other people have experienced." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27653" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="15cc8d3b-e23e-40ab-9ebe-ce22a38cc937" CreationDate="2018-01-04T16:47:25.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8683" RevisionGUID="0fa6df03-07f3-4201-aea8-befe56c6a552" CreationDate="2018-01-04T20:03:01.667" UserId="5440" Text="5 TB you can get in 2.5&quot;. Like this one: http://amzn.to/2ArkWGg. And then you can use any of the mini-PC line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your question, there are some ASUS VivoMini PCs that support a 3.5&quot; HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance see in [this review][1] on the **VM62N-G050R**:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; but this mini PC has a unique dual-bay design that allows for a 3.5&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; drive or two 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/computers/hands-review/asus-vivopc-mini-no-mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8684" RevisionGUID="ccac4758-161c-484b-a058-1fe19aa8d8f8" CreationDate="2018-01-04T20:30:02.200" UserId="7691" Text="I'm looking for a m-iitx motherboard that supports registered ecc memory on the ryzen chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27656" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8684" RevisionGUID="ccac4758-161c-484b-a058-1fe19aa8d8f8" CreationDate="2018-01-04T20:30:02.200" UserId="7691" Text="M-itx Ryzen board that supports rdimms?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27657" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8684" RevisionGUID="ccac4758-161c-484b-a058-1fe19aa8d8f8" CreationDate="2018-01-04T20:30:02.200" UserId="7691" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8685" RevisionGUID="0bd6a833-71a7-4589-ae93-9bd5edc5c888" CreationDate="2018-01-04T21:41:12.550" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Every AM4 ITX board (so far)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Ryzen isn't validated for ECC support on consumer chipsets and, as a result, AMD doesn't officially support it.](http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/75030-ecc-memory-amds-ryzen-deep-dive.html) ECC support is however enabled, and certain motherboard manufactures do validate ECC memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a list of AM4 ITX boards that have been validated with ECC memory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac](https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/Fatal1ty%20AB350%20Gaming-ITXac/index.asp#Memory)&#xD;&#xA;- [ASRock X370 Gaming-ITX/ac](https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Gaming-ITXac/#Memory)&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus ROG STRIX B350-I GAMING](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.138516086.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784)&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus ROG STRIX X370-I GAMING](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.210482384.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784)&#xD;&#xA;- [Biostar B350GTN](http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=878#memorysupport)&#xD;&#xA;- [Biostar X370GTN](http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=879#memorysupport)&#xD;&#xA;- [Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (rev. 1.0)](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-AB350N-Gaming-WIFI-rev-10#support-doc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Note that so far this is every AM4 ITX motherboard out there, and I'd expect this trend to continue, so [any board here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=33&amp;f=8&amp;sort=name&amp;page=1) is likely to work.&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8685" RevisionGUID="aa778743-2aee-48fb-8610-c43423fdc3d3" CreationDate="2018-01-05T00:00:38.037" UserId="7556" Comment="added 1778 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Every AM4 ITX board (so far) supports ECC but not RDIMMs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Registered DIMMs won't work on Ryzen, plain and simple.](https://www.anandtech.com/show/11697/the-amd-ryzen-threadripper-1950x-and-1920x-review/2) [Ryzen isn't validated for ECC support on consumer chipsets and, as a result, AMD doesn't officially support it.](http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/75030-ecc-memory-amds-ryzen-deep-dive.html) ECC support is however enabled, and certain motherboard manufactures do validate ECC memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a list of AM4 ITX boards that have been validated with ECC memory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac](https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/Fatal1ty%20AB350%20Gaming-ITXac/index.asp#Memory)&#xD;&#xA; - [Adata AD4E2133W8G15-BHYA 2133 8GB UDIMM](http://www.adata.com/upload/downloadfile/Datasheet%20-%20DDR4%202133%20R-DIMM-VLP-R-DIMM-ECC-SO-DIMM_201601.pdf)&#xD;&#xA; - [Crucial CT8G4WFD824A.18FB1 2400 8GB UDIMM](http://www.memory4less.com/crucial-server-memory-ct8g4wfd824a-18fb1)&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung M391A1G43EB1-CPBQ 2133 8GB UDIMM](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-M391A1G43EB1-CPB-8GB-DDR4-2133-UDIMM/dp/B074F489DP)&#xD;&#xA;- [ASRock X370 Gaming-ITX/ac](https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Gaming-ITXac/#Memory)&#xD;&#xA; - [Adata AD4E2133W8G15-BHYA 2133 8GB UDIMM](http://www.adata.com/upload/downloadfile/Datasheet%20-%20DDR4%202133%20R-DIMM-VLP-R-DIMM-ECC-SO-DIMM_201601.pdf)&#xD;&#xA; - [Crucial CT8G4WFD824A.18FB1 2400 8GB UDIMM](http://www.memory4less.com/crucial-server-memory-ct8g4wfd824a-18fb1)&#xD;&#xA; - [Samsung M391A1G43EB1-CPBQ 2133 8GB UDIMM](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-M391A1G43EB1-CPB-8GB-DDR4-2133-UDIMM/dp/B074F489DP)&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus ROG STRIX B350-I GAMING](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.138516086.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784)&#xD;&#xA; - [Transcent TS1GLH72V1H 2133 8GB UDIMM](https://www.transcend-info.com/Embedded/Products/No-688)&#xD;&#xA;- [Asus ROG STRIX X370-I GAMING](http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.210482384.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784)&#xD;&#xA; - [Transcent TS1GLH72V1H 2133 8GB UDIMM](https://www.transcend-info.com/Embedded/Products/No-688)&#xD;&#xA;- [Biostar B350GTN](http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=878#memorysupport)&#xD;&#xA; - Apacer 78.B1GM4.4020B 2133 4GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA; - Apacer 78.C1GM4.AF10B 2133 8GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA; - Hynix HMA41GU7AFR8N-TF 2133 8GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA;- [Biostar X370GTN](http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=879#memorysupport)&#xD;&#xA; - Apacer 78.B1GM4.4020B 2133 4GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA; - Apacer 78.C1GM4.AF10B 2133 8GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA; - Hynix HMA41GU7AFR8N-TF 2133 8GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA;- [Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (rev. 1.0)](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-AB350N-Gaming-WIFI-rev-10#support-doc)&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston KVR21E15S8/4 2133 4GB UDIMM](http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KVR21E15S8_4.pdf)&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston KVR21E15D8/8HA 2133 8GB UDIMM](https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR21E15D8_8HA.pdf)&#xD;&#xA; - [Crucial CT4G4WFS8213.9FA1 2133 4GB UDIMM](http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/memory-server-ddr4)&#xD;&#xA; - V-Color TE48G21S815 8GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA; - V-Color TE416G21D815 16GB UDIMM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Note that so far this is every AM4 ITX motherboard out there, and I'd expect this trend to continue, so [any board here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=33&amp;f=8&amp;sort=name&amp;page=1) is likely to work.&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="e3744057-6d3d-4f88-815f-fc830bfeff88" CreationDate="2018-01-05T01:26:53.550" UserId="7692" Text="### Overview&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to build a PC for high-res video editing (2K and a bit of 4K with Premiere Pro), audio manipulation, general use, and a touch of gaming. I want it to look cool, but not sacrifice money or performance for looks. I have done some research and found some parts that I might use, but I need advice to continue. I will probably not overclock my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Part List&#xD;&#xA;I made a part list on PCPartPicker, which is [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v6HCBP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Questions&#xD;&#xA;1. Will all of these parts work together properly?&#xD;&#xA;2. Will they fit inside the case?&#xD;&#xA;4. Do I need thermal paste like [this](https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0045JCFLY&amp;pd_rd_r=FED4FZTGP7D9PQ3B3JY3&amp;pd_rd_w=AtVjd&amp;pd_rd_wg=T6NcT&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FED4FZTGP7D9PQ3B3JY3) for the CPU?&#xD;&#xA;6. Are there any other parts I need or are suggested?&#xD;&#xA;7. Is there a way to keep it as good as it is but make it cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;8. A friend told me I could use a 1070 graphics card instead of a 1080. Would the difference be noticeable?&#xD;&#xA;6. Finally, are there any tips you have for building the PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27661" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="e3744057-6d3d-4f88-815f-fc830bfeff88" CreationDate="2018-01-05T01:26:53.550" UserId="7692" Text="A few questions about my PC build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27662" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="e3744057-6d3d-4f88-815f-fc830bfeff88" CreationDate="2018-01-05T01:26:53.550" UserId="7692" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8687" RevisionGUID="1419a11f-3e78-4e00-9b9b-4f8cdf7cd5ce" CreationDate="2018-01-05T04:31:55.553" UserId="7691" Text="A nas is not much different from a media server. It uses all the same parts. I haven't built many myself, so take this advice with a grain of salt. Other users will be more informed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you want is an mitx form factor nas case that can support multiple 3.5inch drives, ecc ram, and a low end xeon (or comparable) processor. (that said, if data integrity isn't a huge issue just go with an athlon or i-line intel and regular ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SilverStone DS380 or any similiar case will fit your needs well. The amount of bays you have is your biggest limiting factor as 8 3.5 inch bays is...well kinda big.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;p.s. You might want to also look into gigabit ethernet cards, but I am not the guy to ask about that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27664" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8687" RevisionGUID="d61475e7-04ca-4e7e-b67c-0c729d5a9d22" CreationDate="2018-01-05T04:39:39.653" UserId="7691" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="A nas is not much different from a media server. It uses all the same parts. I haven't built many myself, so take this advice with a grain of salt. Other users will be more informed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you want is an mitx form factor nas case that can support multiple 3.5inch drives, ecc ram, and a low end xeon (or comparable) processor. (that said, if data integrity isn't a huge issue just go with an athlon or i-line intel and regular ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SilverStone DS380 or any similiar case will fit your needs well. The amount of bays you have is your biggest limiting factor as 8 3.5 inch bays is...well kinda big.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;p.s. You might want to also look into gigabit ethernet cards, but I am not the guy to ask about that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;p.p.s. The line between servers and consumer hardware is more about how beefy and reliable the hardware is. Double check to make sure you absolutely need something like a xeon before forking a large chunk of money at the thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27665" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8688" RevisionGUID="23bac299-e660-4c63-9a32-a5b604141603" CreationDate="2018-01-05T04:40:16.227" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Minor &lt;s&gt;bugfixes and&lt;/s&gt; improvements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of my answer is predicated on the assumption that you basically want the cost to remain around the same point, as well as performance. See the body for more details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[PCPartPicker part list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yy4HVY) / [Price breakdown by merchant](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yy4HVY/by_merchant/)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;StackExchange, please add table support to your markdown.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Breakdown by component&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though *personally* I would advocate for a switch either to the 8600K or a Ryzen 7 1700 (or lower) to save cash, these create fundamentally different systems. The 8600K drops HT–most workloads will stay the same, including gaming, but a few won't do quite as well; the Ryzen 7 1700 has significantly lower single core performance and won't do quite as well in games and other mostly single threaded workloads, but has two additional cores for multithreaded workloads, has SMT, and costs significantly less. As such, I've maintained the 8700K to keep the caliber the same, as well as the strengths.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Cooler&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Same. IMO it's a great cooler, especially for the price, with clean looks to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Thermal compound&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though there is compound included in the box, it's cheap silicone stuff. It's unlikely to really hurt performance in any meaningful way, but given the caliber of build you're building, a little Arctic Silver can't hurt. Plus, more thermal compound is always fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably the largest switch here. The main reason I made this switch was to integrate the wireless solution into the motherboard. This cleans up aesthetics and leaves I/O open, and gets you either (depending on the board) a much cheaper build or a much nicer board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked the [Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E Gaming](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8sRFf7/asus-rog-strix-z370-e-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-strix-z370-e-gaming) board over two cheaper boards: the [Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming Wi-Fi](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Fr2rxr/gigabyte-z370-aorus-gaming-wifi-rev-10-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-aorus-gaming-wifi-rev-10) and the [ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FMJkcf/asrock-z370-killer-sliac-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-killer-sliac). The primary purpose here is looks: IMO, the RGB lighting, I/O cover, M.2 cover, and multiple RGB headers make this a flexible, good looking board. You also get better power delivery and some minor features in the BIOS, but these are largely secondary. If you think the fairly steep $80 price increase isn't worth it, I'd recommend the ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac; I've had some very poor experiences with Gigabyte support in the past and (though their products are fine in themselves) I prefer to stay away from them when possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The change here is fairly minor, but I gave a little more flex in RAM speed in return for a slightly cheaper price. The return on investment for higher speed memory [isn't worth the money for the most part above 2666 MHz](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk) on Z370. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked the much faster (roughly 40%) and only slightly more expensive [Samsung 850 EVO M.2](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/25579/Samsung-SSD-850-EVO-M2-500GB) over the [WD Blue M.2](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/209713/WDC-WDS500G1B0B-00AS40). It's green, which is a bit of a bummer, but if you go with a motherboard with an M.2 cover, you won't be able to see it anyways. Neither of these drives are what I'd describe as particularly fast though, and even fast SATA SSDs will beat them. If you're willing to sacrifice a little bit of cleanliness, I might recommend the slightly cheaper and faster [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5&quot;](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FrH48d/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e500bam), along with maybe an [HDD for mass storage](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/internal-hard-drive/#S=2050000,12000000&amp;t=7200&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As much as I'm a fan of the Founder Edition look, it just doesn't make much sense outside of a small form factor case or water cooling. FE cards run hot, and the EVGA Superclocked model is barely any more expensive and should perform better while running cooler and quieter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on what resolution and framerate you're targeting in what games, a GTX 1080 may be rather overkill. If you can give me more info on those, that'd be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're spending a lot of money, I'd treat myself to the improved S340 Elite. It's got a larger glass side panel than the original. That's the main thing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Most of my time with my rig has been in an S340 (not Elite.) Nice case.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not that your PSU was a bad choice, just that a similar power supply with a slightly higher wattage could be had for a little cheaper. To be fair, the [RM650x](http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;op=Story6&amp;reid=452) is a slightly better power supply than the [Toughpower Grand](http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&amp;op=Story6&amp;reid=499) aside from that. Really, anything that fits the parametric filter should be fine; pick a power supply as you deem appropriate from there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### OS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No changes really. There are other ways to get cheap keys, but I won't go into those since they're a bit of a grey area.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Answers to questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Yes&#xD;&#xA;2. Yes&#xD;&#xA;3. No since you'll get some in the box, but I'd recommend it because of the cooler choice.&#xD;&#xA;4. Monitor, keyboard, mouse! Maybe headphones or speakers.&#xD;&#xA;5. Sort of. See the main body.&#xD;&#xA;6. Again, see main body.&#xD;&#xA;7. Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one. Go slow, be careful inserting the CPU, remember your I/O shield. Yes, CPU coolers can be a bit of a pain. Remember your motherboard standoffs. Cable management really makes things look much better. Keep all the boxes and the CPU socket cover. Have fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ipgg.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8689" RevisionGUID="d5b2c866-9911-4a07-9863-7999d95ababd" CreationDate="2018-01-05T05:29:58.933" UserId="7691" Text="Have you heard of dc-dc powersupplies? This is definitely up your alley.&#xD;&#xA;You can also grab a portable usb monitor, everything else is up to what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Failing that you can also grab an inverter to run a regular old plug to your pc. Just be careful not to drain your battery completely. Lower power use is better!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8690" RevisionGUID="1add499d-19a0-406b-978f-c941869c593f" CreationDate="2018-01-05T06:02:58.740" UserId="7691" Text="If you're doing anything super intensive editing wise I'd go for a quadro, but if you're just splicing clips, making wedding vids and the like a 1070/1080 will do you fine. I think you'll benefit more from single core performance in this build. Go for intel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing to consider are accessories like the palette gear if you do a lot of editing on a regular basis.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8691" RevisionGUID="ef05dbde-4915-4fb1-b9d3-a369394a7888" CreationDate="2018-01-05T06:09:28.337" UserId="7691" Text="You'll want a dedicated displayport repeater as cables often break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind the further you go the higher your latency will be, and the more repeater you'll need. Only go this route if you absolutely need it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8692" RevisionGUID="79451224-c2b7-4046-9b97-f77a41123251" CreationDate="2018-01-05T06:38:38.000" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: An Inwin IW-MS04, Fractal Design Node 304, or Silverstone DS380.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the purpose of this, I'll be pretty much sticking to 3.5&quot; HDDs–both since that's in the question, and since 3.5&quot; HDDs still contain several advantages. Though high density 2.5&quot; drives are becoming more and more common–@Yisroel Tech pointed out a 5TB drive–they're still not what I'd consider &quot;ready.&quot; As of yet, most of these drives are intended as secondary for laptops: high density, 5400RPM, desktop drives (read: not rated for 24/7 usage nor-more importantly–high vibration environments.) They're also generally much more expensive than their 3.5&quot; counterparts, especially given the ability to shuck WD Reds from external enclosures. Though 2.5&quot; drives have also become common in the data center, these are high speed SAS drives, not SATA, and don't really make sense for a desktop build, especially when price is at a premium. In general, they're still also more expensive than their 3.5&quot; counterparts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Methodology&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I went through [PCPartPicker's list of Mini ITX cases](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#J=1,20&amp;f=8&amp;t=9,12,10), then for each case that looked promising, looked up the manufacturer specs on volume. For sake of transparency and record-keeping, here's the table I produced (you'll need something to render Markdown tables with, since StackExchange still doesn't support them.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Case | Bays | Volume&#xD;&#xA;     --- | --- | ---&#xD;&#xA;    *[Lian-Li PC-Q26](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnQRsY/lian-li-case-pcq26a)* | 10 | 34L&#xD;&#xA;    **[Silverstone DS380](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BrtWGX/silverstone-ds380-mini-itx-tower-case-ds380)** | 8 | 21.6L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Lian-Li PC-Q25](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zth9TW/lian-li-case-pcq25a)* | 7 | 20L&#xD;&#xA;    [BitFenix Phenom](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/37mLrH/bitfenix-case-bfcphe300wwxkkrp) | 6 | 31L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Fractal Design Array R2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9KrG3C/fractal-design-case-arrayr2)* | 6 | 17.5L&#xD;&#xA;    **[Fractal Design Node 304](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BWFPxr/fractal-design-case-fdcanode304bl)** | 6 | 19.5L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Lian-Li PC-Q08](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2w2kcf/lian-li-case-pcq08a)* | 6 | 21.3L&#xD;&#xA;    [BitFenix Prodigy](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp) | 5 | 26.3L&#xD;&#xA;    [Lian-Li PC-Q35](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zv648d/lian-li-case-pcq35a) | 5 | 18L&#xD;&#xA;    **[Inwin IW-MS04](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7f7CmG/inwin-iw-ms04-mini-itx-desktop-case-iw-ms04-01-s265)** | 4 | 13.3L&#xD;&#xA;    [CHENBRO SR30169](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ncqbt6/chenbro-case-sr30169) | 4 | 16.7L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Rosewill Legacy V6-B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KJYXsY/rosewill-case-legacyv6b)* | 4 | 12.6L&#xD;&#xA;    [Antec ISK600](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rVh9TW/antec-case-isk600) | 3 | 18.7L&#xD;&#xA;    [Cooler Master Elite 110](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QCjG3C/cooler-master-case-rc110kkn2) | 3 | 15L&#xD;&#xA;    [Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VrZQzy/cooler-master-case-rc120awwn1) | 3 | 20L&#xD;&#xA;    [Cooler Master Elite 130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6wR48d/cooler-master-case-rc130kkn1) | 3 | 20L&#xD;&#xA;    [Cooler Master HAF Stacker 915R](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg2kcf/cooler-master-case-haf915rkkn1) | 3 | 32.5L&#xD;&#xA;    [Cooler Master HAF Stacker 915F](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hRQypg/cooler-master-case-haf915fkkn1) | 3 | 32.5L&#xD;&#xA;    [Thermaltake Core X1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8238TW/thermaltake-case-ca1d600s1wn00) | 3 | 56L&#xD;&#xA;    [Fractal Design Core 500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LvnG3C/fractal-design-case-fdcacore500bk) | 3 | 19.5L&#xD;&#xA;    [Raidmax Element](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HJVBD3/raidmax-case-atx101bup) | 2 | 16L&#xD;&#xA;    &lt;s&gt;[Antec ISK 300-65](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2YGkcf/antec-case-isk30065)&lt;/s&gt; 2.5&quot;| 2 | 7L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Inwin BP671](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fmyFf7/inwin-case-bp671fh200b)* | 2 | 8.2L&#xD;&#xA;    [Thermaltake Core V1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fGvRsY/thermaltake-case-ca1b800s1wn00) | 2 | 45.5L&#xD;&#xA;    [Corsair 250D](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gHkD4D/corsair-case-cc9011047ww) | 2 | 28L&#xD;&#xA;    [Lian-Li PC-Q19](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bp98TW/lian-li-case-pcq19b) | 1 | 22.5L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Silverstone RVZ01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b)* | 1 | 14L&#xD;&#xA;    *[Silverstone FTZ01](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b)* | 1 | 14L&#xD;&#xA;    [Skyreach 4 Mini](https://www.sfflab.com/products/nfc_s4m) | 2x2.5&quot; | 5L&#xD;&#xA;    [DR ZABER Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/) | 4x2.5&quot; | 7L&#xD;&#xA;    [Louqe GHOST S1 MkII](http://www.louqe.com) | 3x2.5&quot; | 8.2L&#xD;&#xA;    [DAN Case A4 SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4_spec.html) | 3x2.5&quot; | 7.2L&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From that, I chose the above four cases, primarily based on drives/volume and availability (since some of the cases have unfortunately been discontinued.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Inwin IW-MS04](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7f7CmG/inwin-iw-ms04-mini-itx-desktop-case-iw-ms04-01-s265)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At 13.3 liters with support for 4x3.5&quot; HDDs hidden behind a pretty face, this case is pretty impressive in itself. What's more, these drives are hot swappable. However, this does come at a cost: though it comes with a 265W Bronze PSU, you probably won't be able to upgrade from this if you decide to, since the case only supports Flex ATX power supplies. The $160 price tag doesn't help either. Oh well. Still worth a look if you meet the power requirements!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Fractal Design Node 304](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BWFPxr/fractal-design-case-fdcanode304bl)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At 19.6 liters with support for 6x3.5&quot; HDDs with support for full ATX PSUs up to 160mm in length, this case sure packs a lot into a little package, and for $100, isn't too expensive either. Fractal Design also has an awesome reputation and good looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone DS380](http://a.co/iKCcujS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately @Nicholas Martin got to suggest this before I could, so I'll just have to second the quality of this case. At 21.6 liters with support for 8x3.5&quot; HDDs in hot swap bays, this is the best in drives/volume. It's not too expensive at $150, but you will need a more expensive SFX or SFX-L PSU. Silverstone also has a solid reputation and good looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Discontinued cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly, there are several cases which I would have loved to recommend, but are discontinued and out of stock: the [Lian-Li PC-Q26](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnQRsY/lian-li-case-pcq26a), [Fractal Design Array R2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9KrG3C/fractal-design-case-arrayr2), [Lian-Li PC-Q08](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2w2kcf/lian-li-case-pcq08a), and [Rosewill Legacy V6-B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KJYXsY/rosewill-case-legacyv6b). If you can find one of these used, they're amazing options, but my guess is they were discontinued due to low volume sales, as they're fairly specialized products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Not-quite recommended&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Inwin BP671](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fmyFf7/inwin-case-bp671fh200b) is a cool little case at a mere 8.2L that supports 2x3.5&quot; drives. However, the bundled 200W TFX PSU is just too weak and too sketchy for my recommendation, and availability of TFX PSUs is quite low.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Silverstone RVZ01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) and [Silverstone FTZ01](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b) are both neat little cases at only 14L, but 1x3.5&quot; drive is just too little for NAS purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Really small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were paying extra close attention, you'll notice at the bottom of my table I listed three cases that don't even support 3.5&quot; drives! Okay, yes, I said I wasn't going to do this, but I had to mention them if not recommend them. They're all *extremely tiny*, *extremely well built*, *extremely expensive* cases. Even though they're not really appropriate for this application, they're interesting to look at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8693" RevisionGUID="c67bc5d6-d753-44e9-a80a-2b3f03a02196" CreationDate="2018-01-05T08:36:52.280" UserId="7556" Text="**Get a capture card!** The AVerMedia AVerCapture HD that you linked is along the lines of what you want, but it's not my top recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at the [Elgato HD60 S](https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-hd60-s), a low latency USB 3.0 HDMI capture card (should work just fine with your laptop's USB 3.0 ports.) It's not exactly cheap by any means at $180, but it's the best I know of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should then be able to monitor the capture card's video using either Elgato's provided software or something like [VLC](https://wiki.videolan.org/VLC_HowTo/Use_a_capture_card/) or [OBS](https://obsproject.com)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8694" RevisionGUID="565acbf6-a8d3-44a4-8ce9-a1ed4e4b9ccc" CreationDate="2018-01-05T10:13:35.960" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: the [Dell P2415Q](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/4TWrxr/dell-monitor-p2415q)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the target of a 24&quot; 4K monitor, we're basically left with two options: the LG 24UD58-B and the Dell P2415Q.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both use the same IPS panel manufactured by LG; the differences are in out-of-the-box calibration (Dell has a better reputation and provides statistics in the box for each monitor), connectivity (the 24UD58-B has 1x DisplayPort and 2x HDMI while the P2415Q has 3x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI, and 1x Mini DisplayPort), and Freesync (only the 24UD58-B has Freesync.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because you don't game on an AMD card at the moment, and live in Australia where availability of the 24UD58-B is quite poor (I couldn't find any listings at the moment), this leaves the P2415Q, which just squeaks in under the budget at $585 AUD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's a full review of the monitor](https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/dell-p2415q/). Pros are excellent calibration, good contrast (for an LCD), good pixel response times, and of course, 4K. Weaknesses were confined to a too-narrow color space and a heavily matte finish." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8695" RevisionGUID="0e8386c1-5d61-49d3-a191-8f40b6709c6c" CreationDate="2018-01-05T17:56:02.993" UserId="7693" Text="I teach high school English. Lots of papers to grade. Students submit electronically, through an online service; the LMS we use is, shall we say, limited. Grading essays online is extremely cumbersome and slow, with tons of interminable pointing and clicking. (There are NO keyboard shortcuts in the LMS.) I think I can partly ameliorate the process by moving to Google Docs for the grading process, since it has at least some keyboard shortcuts, but I want to look for a hardware element to increase efficiency further. Basically, I want to be able to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- navigate through a document quickly and precisely.&#xD;&#xA;- highlight text quickly and precisely.&#xD;&#xA;- program the controller to keyboard shortcuts in Google Docs and Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;- key in text for comments quickly and precisely. &#xD;&#xA;- program in canned comments (for the stuff I say over and over again)&#xD;&#xA;- tab over to the virtual gradebook (a separate online service) to enter the student's grade.&#xD;&#xA;- possibly do some other stuff that I'm not thinking of just now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking around at game controllers, video editing controllers, etc., for ideas; someone suggested I look into macro keypads. I don't know much about any of these devices, so I'm looking for recommendations. My dream would be to never touch the mouse; I understand that that may not be feasible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Other requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I would be willing to pay up to 200USD, but naturally I'd love to do this for less if possible.&#xD;&#xA;- Whatever it is has to connect via USB and be Mac-compatible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8695" RevisionGUID="0e8386c1-5d61-49d3-a191-8f40b6709c6c" CreationDate="2018-01-05T17:56:02.993" UserId="7693" Text="Is there a device that can add efficiency to editing documents?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8695" RevisionGUID="0e8386c1-5d61-49d3-a191-8f40b6709c6c" CreationDate="2018-01-05T17:56:02.993" UserId="7693" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27676" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="ee603c1c-afc3-460a-b75f-f54e2a27b71e" CreationDate="2018-01-05T18:03:59.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27680" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="148040a1-bcef-42b2-bb6c-c12d887bbee9" CreationDate="2018-01-05T19:19:20.413" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27681" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8677" RevisionGUID="516058ec-827c-4ee4-8cb5-b7ff1384ee8b" CreationDate="2018-01-05T19:20:26.650" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27682" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="26c93d69-1232-4584-ac8b-93acac878c5a" CreationDate="2018-01-05T20:04:03.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27683" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="ca625b1d-9fc9-4e00-87af-904c8bf0dd70" CreationDate="2018-01-05T21:04:03.943" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27684" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8696" RevisionGUID="a7752831-3867-46fd-985b-0bfdc5ec11f0" CreationDate="2018-01-05T22:04:48.137" UserId="7691" Text="You might want to consider a windows tablet, or an aftermarket version of the android os if reliability is a concern. Stock android is susceptable to android bloat, faulty updates and the like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A panasonic toughpad might be something to look at, though it's definitely at the higher end of the spectrum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27685" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="10cfcef4-b7b1-43f9-ab86-b9c1ac2db4bb" CreationDate="2018-01-06T00:08:35.937" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8697" RevisionGUID="8e9ad189-9e93-4347-a15c-5715067b0538" CreationDate="2018-01-06T03:34:57.317" UserId="7695" Text="I was on the verge of buying a new computer when meltdown and spectre were made public. I've read about how the software fix can cause a 5 to 30% slowdown. In light of that, I would like to buy a professor that is unaffected. I assume Intel still does not have a new processor that is unagfected.  Is there a safe processor yet, or do I need to wait?&#xA;&#xA;I haven't been able to find any information on when the processor companies will have unaffected processors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8697" RevisionGUID="8e9ad189-9e93-4347-a15c-5715067b0538" CreationDate="2018-01-06T03:34:57.317" UserId="7695" Text="New computer in light of meltdown and spectre" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8697" RevisionGUID="8e9ad189-9e93-4347-a15c-5715067b0538" CreationDate="2018-01-06T03:34:57.317" UserId="7695" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8698" RevisionGUID="db3a7fab-a18c-4bfc-86f9-bb8586c900ec" CreationDate="2018-01-06T04:59:13.150" UserId="7696" Text="I was having issues with my PC so I cracked the tower open. In the process of my investigation I looked at my eSATA card and noticed on the opposite side of the circuit board from the capacitor it appears to have been some dried up substance. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe this issue is unrelated to my original problem, but is this something to be concerned with - and does this warrant a new eSATA card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here it the top, with the capacitor in question. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMw9G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0qIk.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27690" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8698" RevisionGUID="db3a7fab-a18c-4bfc-86f9-bb8586c900ec" CreationDate="2018-01-06T04:59:13.150" UserId="7696" Text="White substance beneath capacitor. Does this require replacement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27691" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8698" RevisionGUID="db3a7fab-a18c-4bfc-86f9-bb8586c900ec" CreationDate="2018-01-06T04:59:13.150" UserId="7696" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27695" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="47eafa75-a84f-402f-88ba-088892f505af" CreationDate="2018-01-06T06:12:34.847" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8700" RevisionGUID="5be81855-2930-4271-9eca-f93e0db46e6c" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:09:02.310" UserId="7691" Text="That's a leaked capacitor, you could repair it yourself if you knew how but I'd say it would be cheaper to replace the card than to hire a repairman. Atleast if you're in the usa where labor is more expensive than parts." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27697" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8700" RevisionGUID="0e11be9e-5240-4f34-8d7f-91a1f29f648c" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:20:39.113" UserId="7691" Comment="added 322 characters in body" Text="That's a leaked capacitor, you could repair it yourself if you are comfortable with that, but hiring a repairman might be more expensie than a new card. Atleast if you're in the usa where labor is more expensive than parts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll post some resources for a diy repair tomorrow, it&quot;s a cheap project to try with a card that isn't going to get any less dead otherwise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.overclockers.com/how-anyone-can-replace-leaking-capacitors/&#xD;&#xA;Here's a quick guide. If you damage the board some solder over the traces should be enough to fix 'er.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As jmy1000 mentioned, if she's under warranty I'd recommend going that route if possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8701" RevisionGUID="aae319d4-9b9e-43ff-a746-eae9e252b464" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:46:32.610" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Wait a little while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, let's be clear: there are two tightly connected but separate vulnerabilities here. Meltdown is specific to Intel CPUs since 1995 and has already been patched on all three major OSs, while Spectre is present on almost all x86 chips (AMD and Intel) and ARM chips. Though I won't go too in depth, as of yet **there is no universal solution, hardware or software, that universally patches Spectre.** I strongly recommend reading [this briefing](https://meltdownattack.com) and–if you have at least some background in CS/are willing to spend a lot of time learning about the low level architecture–[the Project Zero blog](https://googleprojectzero.blogspot.com) and whitepapers released by the researching groups.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding Meltdown: I've seen those numbers and–while I don't doubt there will be a performance hit–I'm dubious. Be *very* wary of any answers you recieve here, including my own (I have a limited background in CS, but I haven't come close to fully digesting all the information out there.) Because of the nature of Meltdown's attack vector and subsequent patch, the performance hit is hardest in syscall heavy workloads, but is implementation and workload dependent. I'm going to refrain from quoting any hard numbers simply because of the quantity of numbers out there (Google &quot;meltdown performance&quot; and you'll see workloads ranging from SQL performance within a Linux guest OS on a type-1 hypervisor to Windows Unigine Superposition benchmarks), but I'd expect these numbers to go down over the course of the coming weeks/months. Where this ends is just too difficult to say right now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8702" RevisionGUID="1944cf5b-69e2-4687-b4fb-6b84a944e564" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:47:25.127" UserId="1393" Text="### Background (not the question)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not a hacker, I'm a terribly lazy guy who prefers to download 10 GB Virtual Machine (1 click) than to install a few packages to get software running (stuff never works for me the first time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm spending Xmas with my family and I wanted to synchronise Monero blockchain. Monero uses anonymous protocol I2P and as it was synchronising my WiFi was dropping, now it cannot connect at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I speculate ISP is observing the packets an does not like privacy stuff and has banned my MAC address.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(phone and another laptop connected to the same WiFi are working just fine)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Question: looking for an external WiFi dongle&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional use case - 1 hour WiFi limits at the aiport - yes please. I'm not a hacker, so https://www.aircrack-ng.org/doku.php?id=cracking_wpa is slightly outside my technical expertise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which dongle to buy?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8702" RevisionGUID="1944cf5b-69e2-4687-b4fb-6b84a944e564" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:47:25.127" UserId="1393" Text="External WiFi dongle hackable enough to change MAC (media access control) address? (Apple Mac OS X)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8702" RevisionGUID="1944cf5b-69e2-4687-b4fb-6b84a944e564" CreationDate="2018-01-06T07:47:25.127" UserId="1393" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8702" RevisionGUID="b138f0c0-fce6-4c01-bb97-58cdcc305b5f" CreationDate="2018-01-06T09:40:33.177" UserId="1393" Comment="added 352 characters in body; edited title" Text="### Background (not the question)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not a hacker, I'm a terribly lazy guy who prefers to download 10 GB Virtual Machine (1 click) than to install a few packages to get software running (stuff never works for me the first time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm spending Xmas with my family and I wanted to synchronise Monero blockchain. Monero uses anonymous protocol I2P and as it was synchronising my WiFi was dropping, now it cannot connect at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I speculate ISP is observing the packets an does not like privacy stuff and has banned my MAC address.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(phone and another laptop connected to the same WiFi are working just fine)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Question: looking for a powerful external WiFi dongle&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional use case - 1 hour WiFi limits at the aiport - yes please. I'm not a hacker, so https://www.aircrack-ng.org/doku.php?id=cracking_wpa is slightly outside my technical expertise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which dongle to buy?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT / UPDATE:** Changing MAC address works like a charm. Now I can connect to my home WiFi. I still want to buy an external WiFi adapter, this time around the main criterium is POWER and readily available external antenna. Use case: I sit in a nuclear bunker faraday cage workspace and have 10m USB extension with my WiFi card attached. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27704" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8702" RevisionGUID="b138f0c0-fce6-4c01-bb97-58cdcc305b5f" CreationDate="2018-01-06T09:40:33.177" UserId="1393" Comment="added 352 characters in body; edited title" Text="Powerful external WiFi dongle hackable enough to change MAC (media access control) address? (Apple Mac OS X)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="c4ffc227-649a-4145-b81f-cfc46482d325" CreationDate="2018-01-06T18:15:06.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27711" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8698" RevisionGUID="088ee8b3-1bcf-4888-ac5d-738e07dcd953" CreationDate="2018-01-06T18:52:29.883" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8705" RevisionGUID="c0c434a6-7d62-4082-b39b-a5e5cbefbb4c" CreationDate="2018-01-06T21:33:36.983" UserId="7701" Text="I want to build a PC with my son.  Or rather, at some point have it so he gets to build it (I'm thinking of torturing him by re-formatting Linux every so often and having him reinstall it).  I'd like to do with it mini-ITX for a number of reasons, one of which is that he could take it over to his mom's on alternate weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have build PCs from scratch before, but a long time ago, on full size desktops.  I'm also fairly comfortable with Linux installs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some criteria/considerations for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Relatively cheap to start out with, but room to improve or swap components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. based on Linux, so hardware needs to support it.  Don't want really spiffy feature set that needs Windows drivers to work.  Related to that - a mobo/chipset that doesn't require extreme UEFI mangling before it will boot from a Linux boot USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. gaming?  Light gaming, possibly via Steam and possibly output to a 1080p TV via HDMI (1.3?).  I also have big gaming monitor.  But first we need to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I'd prefer a motherboard with some basic onboard GPU, but allowing me to add a better discrete GPU later on (that's related to #1 and #3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Still relatively small, because he should be able to take the box itself, minus peripherals, with him to his mom.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. AMD?  Even before the recent security mess, I was thinking of them, just because I like them.  But I think I saw people being concerned about the quality/cost of AMD Ryzen minit-ITX boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. High speed support for external HDDs (offline backups) - USB3 or eSata.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. low power, relatively silent, even if that clashes a bit with the (light) gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Finally, quality, quality, quality, rather than just features.  I'd never recommend ACER over ASUS in laptops for example, that's just my own personal prejudices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Share some pointers or war stories?  I'm not so much asking for detailed parts list as general considerations of what to look out for from people who've done this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27714" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8705" RevisionGUID="c0c434a6-7d62-4082-b39b-a5e5cbefbb4c" CreationDate="2018-01-06T21:33:36.983" UserId="7701" Text="general mini-ITX recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27715" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8705" RevisionGUID="c0c434a6-7d62-4082-b39b-a5e5cbefbb4c" CreationDate="2018-01-06T21:33:36.983" UserId="7701" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8705" RevisionGUID="dfd57d57-22ac-4eca-8d6b-d1b6a577255a" CreationDate="2018-01-06T21:55:15.053" UserId="7701" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="I want to build a PC with my son.  Or rather, at some point have it so he gets to build it (I'm thinking of torturing him by re-formatting Linux every so often and having him reinstall it).  I'd like to do with it mini-ITX for a number of reasons, one of which is that he could take it over to his mom's on alternate weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have build PCs from scratch before, but a long time ago, on full size desktops.  I'm also fairly comfortable with Linux installs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some criteria/considerations for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Relatively cheap to start out with, but room to improve or swap components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. based on Linux, so hardware needs to support it.  Don't want really spiffy feature set that needs Windows drivers to work.  Related to that - a mobo/chipset that doesn't require extreme UEFI mangling before it will boot from a Linux boot USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. gaming?  Light gaming, possibly via Steam and possibly output to a 1080p TV via HDMI (1.3?).  I also have big gaming monitor.  But first we need to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I'd prefer a motherboard with some basic onboard GPU, but allowing me to add a better discrete GPU later on (that's related to #1 and #3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Still relatively small, because he should be able to take the box itself, minus peripherals, with him to his mom.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. AMD?  Even before the recent security mess, I was thinking of them, just because I like them.  But I think I saw people being concerned about the quality/cost of AMD Ryzen minit-ITX boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. High speed support for external HDDs (offline backups) - USB3 or eSata.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. low power, relatively silent, even if that clashes a bit with the (light) gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Finally, quality, quality, quality, rather than just features.  I'd never recommend ACER over ASUS in laptops for example, that's just my own personal prejudices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. Peripherals.  What about a console-style controller or wireless mouse and keyboards, esp if it's being used with the TV.  Anything to be careful about?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Share some pointers or war stories?  I'm not so much asking for detailed parts list as general considerations of what to look out for from people who've done this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8706" RevisionGUID="77751db8-fa26-45a2-9f7e-997eceaa955e" CreationDate="2018-01-07T09:09:17.510" UserId="7655" Text="I am looking for a very compact single board computer(SBC), that has at least two usb hosts, a low power consumption and ideally a thin form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to run to make a usb2.0 scientific camera wireless using a virtual usb client (https://www.virtualhere.com) which will compress (LZ4) and transmit the information via wifi. I have measured the usb data rate, it is about 23.5 megabytes/second. Thus, a wifi-ac dongle, connected to the SBC should be adequate for this purpose. Since I do not want the camera to share the USB host with the wifi dongle, I will need at least two usb hosts. Since the whole unit will be powered by a lion phone battery (with a voltage converter to 5V), ideally I am looking for a low power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. &#xD;&#xA;I should add that I am already aware of the Khadas VIM.&#xD;&#xA; Also I have looked at SBCs with Allwinner system on-chip H3 and H5 variants e.g the banana pi, orange pi and nano pi.... but I am not sure which have lower power consumption." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27723" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8706" RevisionGUID="77751db8-fa26-45a2-9f7e-997eceaa955e" CreationDate="2018-01-07T09:09:17.510" UserId="7655" Text="looking for a singleboard computer for a wireless usb hub (low power consumption,ultra compact, multi-usb host)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27724" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8706" RevisionGUID="77751db8-fa26-45a2-9f7e-997eceaa955e" CreationDate="2018-01-07T09:09:17.510" UserId="7655" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27725" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8706" RevisionGUID="957c36fa-3656-4122-b4b8-9aab2520a43d" CreationDate="2018-01-07T09:14:52.653" UserId="7655" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a very compact single board computer(SBC), that has at least two usb hosts, a low power consumption and ideally a thin form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to run to make a usb2.0 scientific camera wireless using a virtual usb client (https://www.virtualhere.com) which will compress (LZ4) and transmit the information via wifi. I have measured the usb data rate, it is about 23.5 megabytes/second. Thus, a wifi-ac dongle, connected to the SBC should be adequate for this purpose. Since I do not want the camera to share the USB host with the wifi dongle, I will need at least two usb hosts. Since the whole unit will be powered by a lion phone battery (with a voltage converter to 5V), ideally I am looking for a low power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the SBC will be mounted on the back of the camera, I would like a board with a thin form factor.... although I guess I can de-solder some of the connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. &#xD;&#xA;I should add that I am already aware of the Khadas VIM.&#xD;&#xA; Also I have looked at SBCs with Allwinner system on-chip H3 and H5 variants e.g the banana pi, orange pi and nano pi.... but I am not sure which have lower power consumption." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27726" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="c3a8c3a1-4431-4541-a0bd-cffee39e99d2" CreationDate="2018-01-07T15:29:36.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8708" RevisionGUID="d992fdd5-baca-49f9-9540-de5cd43c22d2" CreationDate="2018-01-07T17:39:28.977" UserId="7704" Text="Dear people on the Internet,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently acquired [this iiyama monitor][1], which was way better than my previous Samsung monitor. However, this monitor has the issue of ghosting, so I'm planning to use it as a secondary monitor and buy another monitor for around €130. It doesn't have to have 75hz refresh rate or a VA-panel, TN also suits my needs, but it needs to be at least 24&quot; (or 23.8&quot;) and have a resolution of at least 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thijs365&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://iiyama.com/gb_en/products/prolite-x2474hs-b1/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27731" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8708" RevisionGUID="d992fdd5-baca-49f9-9540-de5cd43c22d2" CreationDate="2018-01-07T17:39:28.977" UserId="7704" Text="Cheap monitor with reasonable price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27732" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8708" RevisionGUID="d992fdd5-baca-49f9-9540-de5cd43c22d2" CreationDate="2018-01-07T17:39:28.977" UserId="7704" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27734" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="c60b9f3e-e234-4cf2-9e58-198b57f58b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:40:06.267" UserId="6328" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a voip telephone device, through which I can make cheap international calls. This is possible over various iPhone and Android apps, but since the calls are mostly from the office, I would like to buy a dedicated device for the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device should have a capability to connect to the internet using wifi or an ethernet port ( prefer ethernet port, since the phone will be permanently on the desk ) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a manual from the provider ( where I have made an account and enabled the SIP server settings ) - https://www.dialnow.com/sip. But, I cant quite understand which kind of device I should buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27735" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="c60b9f3e-e234-4cf2-9e58-198b57f58b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:40:06.267" UserId="6328" Text="Voip telephone systems using SIP for home use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27736" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="c60b9f3e-e234-4cf2-9e58-198b57f58b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:40:06.267" UserId="6328" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8711" RevisionGUID="28390da2-7832-4efb-b522-fbd628302b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:45:48.040" UserId="7705" Text="I have a heating controller hidden in a cupboard which is itself hidden at the back of a cupboard filled with file boxes... it is a pain to remove dozens of file boxes and a couple of shelves just to be able to see the controller LEDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a webcam is a solution, but there are some constraints:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I have only 12 cm between the inside surface of inner cupboard door and the front of the control panel. Somehow the camera thickness lens-to-back plus its minimum (almost) focussed distance has to fit in 12 cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The inner cupboard is in total darkness apart from the LEDs I'm trying to monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NEEDS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mac compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;90° viewing angle (could survive with around 70° but this omits the non-critical &quot;pump on&quot; LED.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NICE TO HAVE:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So cool if the cam could connect to my WiFi, but USB power &amp; data will do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DON'T CARES:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Blurred image due to imperfect close-focus: I only need to differentiate between  On / Off / 2Hz flashing LED and between Red or Yellow on each of the six critical LEDs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hi-Res: I only need enough definition to determine which LEDs are doing what.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frame rate: I only need to see the 2 Hz flash -- 4 fps should do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OPTIONS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no issue to drill through the 1.3cm inner door if there is some alternative device (a video door peep-hole for example). I have any amount of space OUTSIDE the inner-cupboard door.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So there you have it: thin webcam with close focus ability on high-contrast scene (bright LED in total darkness).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggestions??&#xD;&#xA;Thanks Chris&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27738" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8711" RevisionGUID="28390da2-7832-4efb-b522-fbd628302b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:45:48.040" UserId="7705" Text="Webcam for unusual application (Very close focus, Dark" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27739" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8711" RevisionGUID="28390da2-7832-4efb-b522-fbd628302b0f" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:45:48.040" UserId="7705" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8712" RevisionGUID="f922b653-d2cf-4ae1-9e04-beb94c367f22" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:24:09.213" UserId="7705" Text="I use an old HP MFP1212 LaserJet. &#xD;&#xA;It scans to my 3 MacAirs, my Win10 desktop (or via any of them them to a Synology NAS). Pretty much bullet proof, though you can expect the auto sheet-feeder input to give up the ghost after feeding many thousand sheets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I also have an Epson hi-res scanner which, frankly, I don't use: my Synology NAS is only 3 TB in RAID-1 and the Epson can eat that with alarmingly few max-res scans).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chris" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8713" RevisionGUID="5774eea7-f35d-4fab-97be-742bd5ad7d67" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:43:52.923" UserId="6089" Text="If you haven't rejected the option of using a Raspberry Pi with pi-cam as a system, you'd be getting all of your required features, plus remote access, as the pi could be configured to display the images when polled by a web browser. I'm using Octoprint on my 3D printer, but use an ordinary web cam attached to the Pi. I am able to view images via web browser from the web cam, and I know that a pi-cam would provide the same capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick check on the pi-cam shows that good focus has been accomplished as low as 30 mm with the V2 NoIR camera module. There are many specifications for both versions of cameras here: [Raspberry Pi Camera Specifications][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are tons of resources (kilograms?) for configuring a Pi with an operating system of choice, and almost as many for [configuring the camera and accessory software.][2] It's clearly not possible to list them all buy I've picked a couple in the links to show some appropriate representative resources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/camera/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://learn.adafruit.com/monitor-your-home-with-the-raspberry-pi-b-plus/access-your-pi-from-anywhere" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27743" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8705" RevisionGUID="198065af-27d1-4d00-bb7b-5f3379d14c03" CreationDate="2018-01-08T03:13:07.340" UserId="7701" Comment="added 244 characters in body" Text="I want to build a PC with my son.  Or rather, at some point have it so he gets to build it (I'm thinking of torturing him by re-formatting Linux every so often and having him reinstall it).  I'd like to do with it mini-ITX for a number of reasons, one of which is that he could take it over to his mom's on alternate weeks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have build PCs from scratch before, but a long time ago, on full size desktops.  I'm also fairly comfortable with Linux installs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some criteria/considerations for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Relatively cheap to start out with, but room to improve or swap components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. based on Linux, so hardware needs to support it.  Don't want really spiffy feature set that needs Windows drivers to work.  Related to that - a mobo/chipset that doesn't require extreme UEFI mangling before it will boot from a Linux boot USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. gaming?  Light gaming, possibly via Steam and possibly output to a 1080p TV via HDMI (1.3?).  I also have big gaming monitor.  But first we need to get working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I'd prefer a motherboard with some basic onboard GPU, but allowing me to add a better discrete GPU later on (that's related to #1 and #3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Still relatively small, because he should be able to take the box itself, minus peripherals, with him to his mom.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. AMD?  Even before the recent security mess, I was thinking of them, just because I like them.  But I think I saw people being concerned about the quality/cost of AMD Ryzen minit-ITX boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. High speed support for external HDDs (offline backups) - USB3 or eSata.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. low power, relatively silent, even if that clashes a bit with the (light) gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Finally, quality, quality, quality, rather than just features.  I'd never recommend ACER over ASUS in laptops for example, that's just my own personal prejudices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. Peripherals.  What about a console-style controller or wireless mouse and keyboards, esp if it's being used with the TV.  Anything to be careful about?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Share some pointers or war stories?  I'm not so much asking for detailed parts list as general considerations of what to look out for from people who've done this and the reasoning that would lead you to choose one class of components over another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: budget 400-600$ preferably, not including monitor, keyboard and mouse.  To an extent, I'm good with used, and we have some really good donation places - rather get good stuff at core, w cheap secondary stuff that I can swap out later.  A cheap used, or new, GPU would be OK too, I can always update it later." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8715" RevisionGUID="0889e440-89ed-4321-8411-603042eb61b4" CreationDate="2018-01-08T07:47:26.013" UserId="6476" Text="Intel does not have a released processor that is unaffected by meltdown. AMD claims that it is unaffected by meltdown. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, benchmarks have been released by numerous sites and the real world implications of the software patch aren't really that concerning to the average user. For example, looking at the benchmarks from [techspot][1] they found that the **performance decrease in games range from 0% to 4%**, while some things like blender and excel were unaffected by it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big performance hit is if you do continuous writes at 512K and lower with an ssd which gives you up to a 40% performance hit, while reads slowed down by up to 17%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are using your computer normally without expecting to heavily read and write files like hosting a database, then you won't notice a significant performance decrease. Even if you wait a little bit it will take time, perhaps over a year, before companies solve this problem on a hardware level and then tool machines to produce them. If you want to avoid the meltdown patch you can get an AMD processor and not patch your windows computer, however you should wait a bit to see if AMD's claims are true. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techspot.com/article/1556-meltdown-and-spectre-cpu-performance-windows/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27748" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="7d4b0415-9083-43ce-a532-3f09585e429e" CreationDate="2018-01-08T12:35:17.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="1b9acf06-c1b4-434f-9edf-0970a8f9c1c1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:18:38.480" UserId="7710" Text="guys so the summary is this:&#xD;&#xA; I am looking for recommendations for a sound system for our new Office it has to have at least 4 zones with at least an input from each zone and be able to run 10 &quot;ceiling speakers&quot;. I want to control it with both apps, Bluetooth, and network computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be doing all the low voltage in the new office and I have never set up a sound system before so I want some recommendations. I would like a system that has an app so It can be controlled from anywhere in the office and I also want to be able to add wireless speakers if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be running cat6 drops to the Data room so if the speakers need LAN connections I can dedicate those to them or I can use speaker wires. I just need a little guidance in the right direction, If I have to create a subnetwork for the Audio Receiver that would be not a problem at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27750" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="1b9acf06-c1b4-434f-9edf-0970a8f9c1c1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:18:38.480" UserId="7710" Text="Office network with Sound system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27751" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="1b9acf06-c1b4-434f-9edf-0970a8f9c1c1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:18:38.480" UserId="7710" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27752" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="bb460ccf-90c1-4856-9ac6-3aac4f619a5d" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:44:06.237" UserId="7556" Comment="Remove off topic support questions." Text="### Overview&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to build a PC for high-res video editing (2K and a bit of 4K with Premiere Pro), audio manipulation, general use, and a touch of gaming. I want it to look cool, but not sacrifice money or performance for looks. I have done some research and found some parts that I might use, but I need advice to continue. I will probably not overclock my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Part List&#xD;&#xA;I made a part list on PCPartPicker, which is [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v6HCBP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Questions&#xD;&#xA;1. Would you recommend getting thermal paste like [this](https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0045JCFLY&amp;pd_rd_r=FED4FZTGP7D9PQ3B3JY3&amp;pd_rd_w=AtVjd&amp;pd_rd_wg=T6NcT&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FED4FZTGP7D9PQ3B3JY3) for the CPU?&#xD;&#xA;2. Are there any other suggested parts?&#xD;&#xA;3. Is there a way to keep it as good as it is but make it cheaper? A friend told me I could use a 1070 graphics card instead of a 1080. Would the difference be noticeable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27753" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8686" RevisionGUID="bb460ccf-90c1-4856-9ac6-3aac4f619a5d" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:44:06.237" Comment="Proposed by 7556 approved by 60 edit id of 656" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8708" RevisionGUID="25f4afc8-2c09-4cc8-ad41-f9f86e48cbed" CreationDate="2018-01-08T16:16:52.917" UserId="60" Comment="Removed fluff. " Text="I am looking to buy a monitor for around €130. It doesn't have to have 75hz refresh rate or a VA-panel, TN also suits my needs, but it needs to be at least 24&quot; (or 23.8&quot;) and have a resolution of at least 1080p." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8718" RevisionGUID="849ff210-5b93-4c04-9beb-97a978f459b9" CreationDate="2018-01-08T18:01:03.633" UserId="7705" Text="The simple solution was to go out and buy a cheap webcam (cheaper than PiCam without the Pi): the image is severely unfocussed but perfectly good enough to know the status of each LED (but not wide-angle enough to capture the non-critical &quot;pump on&quot; LED). The image is also mirror-image (took me a while to work out why), but I guess that will sort itself out if I video-chat to my mac from another machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a newbie to Pi there is no way I could implement PiCam within the time my wife will accept all the file boxes strewn around the place, but it is a fascinating project that I will pursue. I've known about Pi since its early days but never bumbled into a use for it until now. Thanks fred_dot_u for the suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8719" RevisionGUID="a980e51b-1d28-425c-9689-2f8f2e1cc17f" CreationDate="2018-01-08T19:01:48.907" UserId="7705" Text="Visit http://netatmo.com&#xD;&#xA;I love their &quot;weather&quot; station (I have 5 independent &quot;weather&quot; stations with a total of 13 additional add-on indoor modules - never even the smallest hiccup with any of them). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have their &quot;Presence&quot; external camera at one site. It is mains powered &amp; WiFi (only 2.4GHz) and when it works, it works wonderfully (HD, night IR, car/person/animal &quot;event&quot; detection (with auto-floodlight by event category if you wish, with alerts to your mobile by event category if you wish), no monthly fees, iOS, macOS, Android apps (probably Win too but I don't use it). Whack in a big SD card and you're fine...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BUT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...no way is it $50&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...it is not hiccup free. I have had to invoke intervention from their support folk twice (f/w upgrade issues) but they managed to get everything working remotely (site is 3 hour round trip away, so I can't get involved with hiccups)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also do internal cams that are closer to your $50 - I have never used them so cannot comment. Chris&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't worry about the &quot;weather&quot; quote marks: I use their stuff for monitoring internal and external temperatures, not trying to predict weather (and the camera for monitoring snowfall in the mountains)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8721" RevisionGUID="84a0107a-b4a9-407c-af8b-64c2f0e14f49" CreationDate="2018-01-08T21:37:12.377" UserId="241" Text="If you're worried about Meltdown (the easier of the two vulnerabilities to exploit), buy anything AMD.  Meltdown is an Intel-only issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to avoid both, you've got very few options.  About the only consumer-level CPUs that aren't vulnerable to Spectre are the &quot;Bonnell&quot;-series Intel Atom CPUs and the lower-end ARM CPUs.  If you want to buy something pre-assembled, you're pretty much stuck with a first-generation Chromebook off Ebay: the Google CR-48, Samsung Series 5, or Acer AC700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I recommend waiting." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8723" RevisionGUID="8db98387-fa25-4258-88e2-39da5014a1e0" CreationDate="2018-01-09T04:11:37.257" UserId="5440" Text="Your question is about &quot;kind of device&quot;, and for that the answer is **any SIP phone.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SIP** is a protocol/standard and every service or device that comply with these standards are usually compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are two types of SIP phones you can use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. a SIP desk phone with an LCD display and all kind of physical keys for the options. &#xD;&#xA; 2. a SIP ATA adapter, which lets you configure it with a SIP service and connect to it an old style phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the first type I'd personally say the [**Yealink SIP-T46S**][1] is a great option (make sure to buy a power adapter if you do not have PoE ethernet.) And for the 2nd type something like the [**Obihai OBi200**][2] (works also with Google Voice) or the [**Cisco SPA112**][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Yealink-SIP-T46S-Phone-Supply-Included/dp/B01MYPIQMC//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=knaper-20&amp;linkId=0e9138d81ae300e192dd9744bf728562&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUV7C9A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_r=F7AVW37TMSXXEA014HAP&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=b259a439-fd80-5683-89e9-1fe838912dd8&amp;pf_rd_i=13431611&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=knaper-20&amp;linkId=31adeccabf46819d5f7403e106c2cf61&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SPA112-Port-Phone-Adapter/dp/B00684PN54/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=office-electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1515470965&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cisco%20112&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=yisroel-20&amp;linkId=be443dad396f0a477870ee62c60bc29b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27778" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="cfa4ab3e-8f43-4374-8e13-3b9384da847d" CreationDate="2018-01-09T18:41:05.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27779" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="5be112d0-b4f7-40d6-a88e-e1fef5a3003e" CreationDate="2018-01-09T19:41:21.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8725" RevisionGUID="a1ad7679-da21-4ce1-87f2-8ebc2ef60636" CreationDate="2018-01-09T18:11:17.347" UserId="7716" Text="I plan on installing a security camera on my house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the security camera to be wide-angle so that it can capture my porch, driveway, and sidewalk all on video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My house is two stories with 9 foot ceilings, with a slab that's roughly 3 feet high in the front. So the eve of the roof is approximately 25 feet above ground level at the front of the house -- this is about the height the camera will be mounted at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm on the edge of a cul-de-sac, so while one corner of my house is about 30 feet from the curb, the other corner is nearly 50 feet from the curb. This longer corner is where my driveway is located - making my whole driveway from garage to street nearly 50 feet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want this camera to be able to identify a human subject in low-light conditions (night time or rain) at any point on my property -- meaning the maximum distance will be 50-60 feet from the camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this purpose, what type of camera should I be looking at? Is 1080p sufficient, or do I need to spring for 4K?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8725" RevisionGUID="a1ad7679-da21-4ce1-87f2-8ebc2ef60636" CreationDate="2018-01-09T18:11:17.347" UserId="7716" Text="Security Camera: 1080p, 4 megapixel, or 4K?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8725" RevisionGUID="a1ad7679-da21-4ce1-87f2-8ebc2ef60636" CreationDate="2018-01-09T18:11:17.347" UserId="7716" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27784" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="30a7d1ac-c035-43b2-a1c9-04c0fee28dba" CreationDate="2018-01-09T20:41:10.730" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="903bdf91-7ed7-4a0e-b297-2d0a22875e88" CreationDate="2018-01-10T06:00:10.850" UserId="7648" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="A high definition video is needed to be streamed out from a highly movable platform with a range of 5 meters. What do I need? both hardware and software. In the movable platform there is a PC and on the ground an LCD is preferable. The cost is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Explanation: The movable platform is flight simulator for gaming purposes, in which a PC is embedded. That is, in the transmitter, we have a PC with all its peripherals like USB, PCI, etc. We need to stream out the output of the game and see it on an LCD. Outside of the movable platform, we need to see the streaming video with lowest possible cost in an LCD. One way is to install a PC outside the movable platform and use a VNC to transmit the streaming video. However, it seems that implementing these requirements with lower cost is also possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;THE CABLE CANNOT BE USED." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8726" RevisionGUID="37f99e10-3c6a-4175-9996-18f2748f260b" CreationDate="2018-01-10T08:55:36.187" UserId="7719" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy a pedal box for my digital piano. What is the best one for a Thomann piano? I need it to have a big single cable that goes under the keyboard (not the classic &quot;headphone&quot; jack). Also, I would prefer one that has&#xD;&#xA;&quot;half-damper&quot; effect.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27788" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8726" RevisionGUID="37f99e10-3c6a-4175-9996-18f2748f260b" CreationDate="2018-01-10T08:55:36.187" UserId="7719" Text="What triple pedal to use for Thomann DP-26?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27789" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8726" RevisionGUID="37f99e10-3c6a-4175-9996-18f2748f260b" CreationDate="2018-01-10T08:55:36.187" UserId="7719" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27790" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="9a8ec875-f574-4864-a4cf-8bb46908d3f7" CreationDate="2018-01-10T10:55:39.140" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27794" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8725" RevisionGUID="cb47acc0-9f0b-4950-90d7-eb2c3a473afe" CreationDate="2018-01-10T15:38:30.130" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8728" RevisionGUID="9dd3eb44-7d2e-436c-8a5e-0f19c2decf54" CreationDate="2018-01-10T16:23:41.557" UserId="975" Text="I'd like to build a homebrewed tablet-style device that can run an Ubuntu-ish OS pretty well. The easy solution for a DIY computer is the Raspberry Pi, since it has reasonable power and supports myriad customization, but it's too chunky for what I'm planning. Here's my wish-list of requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Thin overall architecture - I'm thinking about 1/2&quot; thick at most, and less is better&#xD;&#xA; 2. Around 1.2GHz processor or better - I want it to be able to run a light GUI with good responsiveness, not having to constantly wait for input to get recognized&#xD;&#xA; 3. 2GB of RAM would be great, obviously more is better&#xD;&#xA; 4. Micro SD slot for OS (onboard memory for the OS would be fine too, as long as I can expand it with a card)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Ability to attach a simple touchscreen - I can flex on this, if it can run a screen but can't do touch then I'll deal with it&#xD;&#xA; 6. At least one free micro USB port - I'm flexible on power options, as long as it can be charging/powered while having a free port&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in wifi (preferably also Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA; 8. HDMI-out would be a bonus but isn't required&#xD;&#xA; 9. Low-budget is preferred since I'll be building a lot of it myself, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred if something really fits the bill&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm expecting to have to do a lot of modification myself, and I'll be designing my own case (unless there's a commercial one that suits my needs). Pretty much what I'm hoping for is a slimmer RPi with the same power, just fewer ports. I know there's the Pi Zero W but its significantly reduced power and memory are too constricting. What other options are there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8728" RevisionGUID="9dd3eb44-7d2e-436c-8a5e-0f19c2decf54" CreationDate="2018-01-10T16:23:41.557" UserId="975" Text="DIY boards for building a lightweight Linux tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8728" RevisionGUID="9dd3eb44-7d2e-436c-8a5e-0f19c2decf54" CreationDate="2018-01-10T16:23:41.557" UserId="975" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;micro-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27800" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="d79a6072-954d-458d-ad7c-3200958c20de" CreationDate="2018-01-10T20:12:33.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8729" RevisionGUID="65e779f6-4e4e-42e0-b92a-59bb377376b0" CreationDate="2018-01-11T13:46:32.103" UserId="1410" Text="I see cheap NFC rings [on eBay](https://www.ebay.com/itm/NFC-Smart-Wearable-Ring-New-Technology-For-Windows-IOS-Android-Mobile-Phone-W2/292363998296) and elsewhere. I was wondering if there is a very cheap NFC reader which I could use to detect such a ring and use it as an HDMI keyboard to input my Windows, and hopefully Linux, password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1xPX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27806" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8729" RevisionGUID="65e779f6-4e4e-42e0-b92a-59bb377376b0" CreationDate="2018-01-11T13:46:32.103" UserId="1410" Text="Inexpecnsive NFC reader for (Windows &amp; Linux) login" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27807" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8729" RevisionGUID="65e779f6-4e4e-42e0-b92a-59bb377376b0" CreationDate="2018-01-11T13:46:32.103" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8731" RevisionGUID="03bf25f5-64c5-4c0e-882c-83fe1454f544" CreationDate="2018-01-11T17:05:38.500" UserId="1776" Text="Can a laptop with a AMD or Intel CPU, an AMD GPU and a Thunderbolt port connect to an external GPGPU box with a NVidia card?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The code to run on the external GPU could be either OpenCL or CUDA based." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27812" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8731" RevisionGUID="03bf25f5-64c5-4c0e-882c-83fe1454f544" CreationDate="2018-01-11T17:05:38.500" UserId="1776" Text="External NVidia GPGPU on an AMD based laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27813" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8731" RevisionGUID="03bf25f5-64c5-4c0e-882c-83fe1454f544" CreationDate="2018-01-11T17:05:38.500" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8732" RevisionGUID="f8632f76-c8a1-453d-8af0-72e751b8a70b" CreationDate="2018-01-11T18:34:07.597" UserId="975" Text="After discussion in the comments and some researching, it looks like the best solution is going to be simply expanding my data package to account for wi-fi tethering, and combining that with a simple tablet or other device. I'm actually looking into building my own to make sure I get the power and features I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the solution, in a nutshell:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Upgraded data package from my phone provider, for tethering&#xD;&#xA; 2. Home-brewed lightweight device based on a single-board computer (SBD) that can simply be built with everything I need as far as ports, peripherals, screen, etc.&#xD;&#xA; 3. VPN to keep traffic secured" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="506617a4-90d9-4801-8413-34cea1aa5a07" CreationDate="2018-01-11T18:41:06.887" UserId="7726" Text="I want to buy notebook for programming. I am Android developer and work in Android Studio. So now I choose between to models Lenovo. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (80YL00LXRA)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; IPS (1920x1080) Full HD/ Intel Core i5-7200U (2.5 - 3.1 Ghz) / RAM 16 GB/ HDD 1 TB + SSD 256 GB / nVidia GeForce GT 940MX, 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (81BF00EGRA)** - more expensive (about 80-100$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; IPS (1920x1080) Full HD,/ Intel Core i7-8550U (1.8 - 4.0 ГГц) / RAM 16 GB/ HDD 1 TB + SSD 128 GB/ nVidia GeForce MX150, 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think about that models? Does it make sense to take a laptop that is more expensive (81BF00EGRA) because of a better processor? Or propose please some others notebooks. I want that Android Studio will work very fast, because now it's very slow :) Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27816" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="506617a4-90d9-4801-8413-34cea1aa5a07" CreationDate="2018-01-11T18:41:06.887" UserId="7726" Text="Notebook for developer (Android Studio)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27817" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="506617a4-90d9-4801-8413-34cea1aa5a07" CreationDate="2018-01-11T18:41:06.887" UserId="7726" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8734" RevisionGUID="fde8394e-19bc-46af-ae1e-f0c36ad4c4f2" CreationDate="2018-01-11T20:11:35.217" UserId="7729" Text="According to [this Wikipedia article][1], the external GPU will be connected by carrying the PCIe bus signals over a Thunderbolt connection, at the speed of upto PCIe x4 rather than x16. Now, for many general-purpose computing applications, the PCIe bandwidth is _already_ a bottleneck at x16 (16 GB/sec theoretical, 12 GB/sec actual), so reducing that by a factor of 4 would be terrible. If, however, you have a lot of computation to do on every piece of data, this _should_ be possible. (I'm not being definitive since I haven't tried this myself).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's likely, however, that the whole exercise is not worth it, and you should just get a small-form-factor PC which fits a full size GPU ([here][2] are a few of them, in a roundup from April 2017).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_processing_unit#External_GPU_(eGPU)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpunerd.com/guides/smallest-mini-itx-cases-with-gpu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8735" RevisionGUID="0593dc63-8f4b-4103-a6ea-b21d3f7eb03f" CreationDate="2018-01-11T20:14:52.577" UserId="7729" Text="Don't waste your time with an eGPU, it'll just be slower and more annoying than putting a GPU on a separate machine. If you want that one to be small, that's [doable][1]. See my similar answer [here][2] for a bit more of an explanation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gpunerd.com/guides/smallest-mini-itx-cases-with-gpu&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8731/external-nvidia-gpgpu-on-an-amd-based-laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27823" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="b8c98ed4-53d7-4fda-b74a-89f12541b9d2" CreationDate="2018-01-11T21:40:20.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8737" RevisionGUID="12a23db4-6bc9-4c3c-9e12-3685ab1bdc0c" CreationDate="2018-01-11T23:11:10.557" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="[Asus Tinker Board][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thin overall architecture - I'm thinking about 1/2&quot; thick at most, and less is better&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Around 1.2GHz processor or better - I want it to be able to run a light GUI with good responsiveness, not having to constantly wait for input to get recognized&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;2GB of RAM would be great, obviously more is better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Micro SD slot for OS (onboard memory for the OS would be fine too, as long as I can expand it with a card)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Ability to attach a simple touchscreen - I can flex on this, if it can run a screen but can't do touch then I'll deal with it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;At least one free micro USB port - I'm flexible on power options, as long as it can be charging/powered while having a free port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Built-in wifi (preferably also Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;HDMI-out would be a bonus but isn't required&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Low-budget is preferred since I'll be building a lot of it myself, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred if something really fits the bill&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tinker Board has &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 1.8Ghz Quad Core CPU&#xD;&#xA; 2. 2GB DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA; 3. DSI MIPI connection for a display&#xD;&#xA; 4. Micro USB for power&#xD;&#xA; 5. SD 3.0 microSD card slot&#xD;&#xA; 6. Built in WiFi (and Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA; 7. HDMI&#xD;&#xA; 8. Priced around $60 on [Amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find the size specs, but a closer look at the links might tell you that.  As mentioned in the comments, the USB ports and and such could be de-soldered without issue to give you that slim profile you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other options to look at would be the [Orange Pi][3] models, depending on your specific use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Single-Board-Computer/Tinker-Board/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Tinker-board-RK3288-1-8GHz-Mali-T764/dp/B06VSBVQWS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1515711602&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=tinker%20board&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.orangepi.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8739" RevisionGUID="f208efd9-3487-492b-a2cc-bee876c9d1d0" CreationDate="2018-01-12T03:15:11.943" UserId="5440" Text="There is obviously no definite answer. But in my opinion, if you can afford it you should certainly take the better one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between the processors is not a small one but a huge difference in performance (mainly in multi-core workloads) between this 7th gen dual-core i5 and the 8th gen quad-core i7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In [**CPU Benchmarks**][1] it just blows it away with a score of **8109** to the i5s **4665**. (I know benchmarks aren't showing the whole picture, but it shows you something.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the GPU is somewhat better in the more expensive one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=3064&amp;cmp[]=2865" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8729" RevisionGUID="0a1e9278-7c0c-4b03-9bfe-f470b9457228" CreationDate="2018-01-12T07:29:06.020" UserId="1410" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="I see cheap NFC rings [on eBay](https://www.ebay.com/itm/NFC-Smart-Wearable-Ring-New-Technology-For-Windows-IOS-Android-Mobile-Phone-W2/292363998296) and elsewhere. I was wondering if there is a very cheap NFC reader which I could use to detect such a ring and use it as an HID keyboard (probably over USB) to input my Windows, and hopefully Linux, password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1xPX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27836" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="843187c6-26f0-4dcd-ac5f-8dcf206a43e7" CreationDate="2018-01-12T09:00:18.860" UserId="7648" Comment="added 26 characters in body; edited title" Text="A high definition video is needed to be streamed out from a highly movable platform with a range of 5 meters. What do I need? both hardware and software. In the movable platform there is a PC and on the ground an LCD is preferable. The cost is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Explanation: The movable platform is flight simulator for gaming purposes, in which a PC is embedded. That is, in the transmitter, we have a PC with all its peripherals like USB, PCI, etc. We need to stream out the output of the game and see it on an LCD. Outside of the movable platform, we need to see the streaming video with lowest possible cost in an LCD. One way is to install a PC outside the movable platform and use a VNC to transmit the streaming video. However, it seems that implementing these requirements with lower cost is also possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One strict restriction:&#xD;&#xA;-THE CABLE CANNOT BE USED." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27837" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8628" RevisionGUID="843187c6-26f0-4dcd-ac5f-8dcf206a43e7" CreationDate="2018-01-12T09:00:18.860" UserId="7648" Comment="added 26 characters in body; edited title" Text="Wireless HD video stream for flight simulator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27838" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="3fbe5e08-38e6-4a5b-b1a7-24e231b97e05" CreationDate="2018-01-12T14:56:17.683" UserId="-1" Comment="fixed mistakes" Text="I want to buy notebook for programming. I am Android developer and work in Android Studio. So now I choose between to models Lenovo. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (80YL00LXRA)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; IPS (1920x1080) Full HD, / Intel Core i5-8250U (1.6 - 3.4 ГГц) / RAM 16 GB / HDD 1 TB + SSD 128 GB / nVidia GeForce MX150, 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (81BF00EGRA)** - more expensive (about 80-100$)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.6&quot; IPS (1920x1080) Full HD,/ Intel Core i7-8550U (1.8 - 4.0 ГГц) / RAM 16 GB/ HDD 1 TB + SSD 128 GB/ nVidia GeForce MX150, 4 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think about that models? Does it make sense to take a laptop that is more expensive (81BF00EGRA) because of a better processor? Or propose please some others notebooks. I want that Android Studio will work very fast, because now it's very slow :) Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27839" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="3fbe5e08-38e6-4a5b-b1a7-24e231b97e05" CreationDate="2018-01-12T14:56:17.683" Comment="Proposed by 195.78.246.3|0716b78e-ef28-479a-b6ba-1890c8b61942 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27843" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8731" RevisionGUID="b8df103f-c7c2-4772-90d2-196b0cafba1c" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:28:12.327" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27844" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="c2150f53-16cb-4c1c-bad8-2231ddb09284" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:44:42.220" UserId="7737" Text="I recently discovered that my laptop's USB Type C port doesn't support display so I'm looking to get an adapter that will add a 3rd monitor for me (I have an HDMI port but nothing else for video).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw some on Amazon, but don't know if they support Ubuntu. My laptop has USB 3 so I'm looking for an adapter that uses that as it has more speed to it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27845" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="c2150f53-16cb-4c1c-bad8-2231ddb09284" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:44:42.220" UserId="7737" Text="looking for an adapter to add a 3rd screen that works for ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27846" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="c2150f53-16cb-4c1c-bad8-2231ddb09284" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:44:42.220" UserId="7737" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="01118737-b3ff-4bca-a7b9-193913a5312c" CreationDate="2018-01-12T21:27:04.070" UserId="7737" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="I recently discovered that my laptop's USB Type C port doesn't support display so I'm looking to get an adapter that will add a 3rd monitor for me (I have an HDMI port but nothing else for video).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw some on Amazon, but don't know if they support Ubuntu. My laptop has USB 3 so I'm looking for an adapter that uses that as it has more speed to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;in case you're curious about the laptop in question its a ASUS VivoBook Pro 17 N705UQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="5157bd84-0dcf-4bc1-b727-394bddbfecb9" CreationDate="2018-01-13T00:19:19.777" UserId="7737" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I recently discovered that my laptop's USB Type C port doesn't support display so I'm looking to get an external graphics adapter that will add a 3rd monitor for me (I have an HDMI port but nothing else for video).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw some on Amazon, but don't know if they support Ubuntu. My laptop has USB 3 so I'm looking for an adapter that uses that as it has more speed to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;in case you're curious about the laptop in question its a ASUS VivoBook Pro 17 N705UQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27849" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="5157bd84-0dcf-4bc1-b727-394bddbfecb9" CreationDate="2018-01-13T00:19:19.777" UserId="7737" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="looking for an external graphics adapter that works for ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27850" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8741" RevisionGUID="5157bd84-0dcf-4bc1-b727-394bddbfecb9" CreationDate="2018-01-13T00:19:19.777" UserId="7737" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27851" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5986" RevisionGUID="8afa7b01-5fcb-4b34-8181-325d1b4265b4" CreationDate="2018-01-13T18:21:14.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9fcfc496-81c5-40b2-9893-201cb4ffeeb7" CreationDate="2018-01-13T23:03:01.093" UserId="7744" Text="Today i going to shop for buy a 8GB ram for My Z500 but im confused&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I shoud buy Dual Channel or One Channel? Dual Channel 800mhz equal to 1600mhz right? Shoud i buy a 800mhz dual or one 1600 or dual 1600 ? Or i should buy 1333mhz ?? Im really confuse!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR3 PC3 or PC3L??? Plz Guide me !!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 204 Pin ?? How many Pin?? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its really hard to find a right ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What brand i should buy is there any different??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1333 or 1600 ? Dual or One ?? 800mhz or what?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop is ideapad z500 corei7 with 6gb ram for now&#xD;&#xA;i put my screenshot from current ram in cpu-z&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Please see this][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pasteboard.co/H2NAAvo.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27853" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9fcfc496-81c5-40b2-9893-201cb4ffeeb7" CreationDate="2018-01-13T23:03:01.093" UserId="7744" Text="What type of Ram For Lenovo Z500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27854" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9fcfc496-81c5-40b2-9893-201cb4ffeeb7" CreationDate="2018-01-13T23:03:01.093" UserId="7744" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8743" RevisionGUID="341e0e30-b5da-4c31-8f5d-a958a9e6fd65" CreationDate="2018-01-14T10:36:58.320" UserId="5134" Text="&lt;br&gt;I am looking for a tablet/convertible pc for my aunt and I am undecided what to get. The main usage would be navigation and Word processing, occasionally some light photoshop/illustrator work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got interesting offers for a [Microsoft Surface Pro 3][1] - i5 model (used, 2 y.o.), a new [Asus T300Chi][2] and a used [Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro S][3], respectively $340 the first one and $390 each for the Asus and the Samsung devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at the specifications, I would definitely go for the Surface or the Samsung tab, however I am worried it could turn out to be a bad investment as the battery easily degrades and cannot be replaced; being already 2 years old, the expected remaining lifetime is quite limited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, what would be your suggestions? Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/microsoft-surface-pro-3/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/2-in-1-PCs/ASUS_Transformer_Book_T300_Chi/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/galaxy/galaxy-tab-pro-s/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8743" RevisionGUID="341e0e30-b5da-4c31-8f5d-a958a9e6fd65" CreationDate="2018-01-14T10:36:58.320" UserId="5134" Text="Choosing a convertible laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8743" RevisionGUID="341e0e30-b5da-4c31-8f5d-a958a9e6fd65" CreationDate="2018-01-14T10:36:58.320" UserId="5134" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27862" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8743" RevisionGUID="67ad33ed-2ba5-49d5-932f-1cc6fb0eb3a4" CreationDate="2018-01-14T14:52:08.860" UserId="5134" Comment="added technical requirements" Text="&lt;br&gt;I am looking for a tablet/convertible pc for my aunt and I am undecided what to get. The main usage would be navigation and Word processing, occasionally some light photoshop/illustrator work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got interesting offers for a [Microsoft Surface Pro 3][1] - i5 model (used, 2 y.o.), a new [Asus T300Chi][2] and a used [Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro S][3], respectively $340 the first one and $390 each for the Asus and the Samsung devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at the specifications, I would definitely go for the Surface or the Samsung tab, however I am worried it could turn out to be a bad investment as the battery easily degrades and cannot be replaced; being already 2 years old, the expected remaining lifetime is quite limited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements would be at least 4GB of RAM, 64+GB of hard disk storage, possibly SSD, and 11-12 inches of screen size. Except WiFi, everything else is just a plus (BT, full-size USB ports, stylus, etc.). Budget-wise my limit is $450 including shipping, even though for used items I prefer to see them in person to run hardware tests.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, what would be your suggestions? Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/microsoft-surface-pro-3/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/2-in-1-PCs/ASUS_Transformer_Book_T300_Chi/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.samsung.com/global/galaxy/galaxy-tab-pro-s/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27863" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="def53da5-b34c-4454-937a-f49e0eaea436" CreationDate="2018-01-14T15:34:06.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8744" RevisionGUID="9de851e5-fa3f-4888-afbf-235ad5229ab8" CreationDate="2018-01-14T16:23:44.103" UserId="7748" Text="I'm looking for a wired in-ear earphones that has volume control and is compatible with iPhone 6 and later. I'm aware that the prices of earphones with volume control can shoot up really quickly, so would appreciate best-value recommendations. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27865" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8744" RevisionGUID="9de851e5-fa3f-4888-afbf-235ad5229ab8" CreationDate="2018-01-14T16:23:44.103" UserId="7748" Text="Best-value in-ear earphones with volume control?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27866" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8744" RevisionGUID="9de851e5-fa3f-4888-afbf-235ad5229ab8" CreationDate="2018-01-14T16:23:44.103" UserId="7748" Text="&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27867" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="441ec081-285f-4d0e-a562-33a791798ad8" CreationDate="2018-01-14T22:37:15.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8745" RevisionGUID="6c7aed9d-47bc-4191-81f4-5e68ba44784a" CreationDate="2018-01-15T00:23:53.813" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Buy another RMT3170EB68E9W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Understanding memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[First things first: let's read what Lenovo specifies as &lt;s&gt;compatible&lt;/s&gt; standard memory:](https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_z500p500_hmm_1st_edition_sep_2012_english.pdf)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; DDR3-1600/1333MHz SODIMM × 2 (max 16 GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Time to break it down! Let's start with the hard and fast requirements, then get to the more difficult stuff:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DDR3](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR stands for &quot;double data rate&quot;, a type of  synchronous dynamic random-access memory (SDRAM),  with the three indicating that it's the third of four major, **incompatible**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, revisions of the specification. There's a lot of implications that come as a result of this, but you really only need to keep one in mind: **buy DDR3, anything else will not work.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sidenote: the &quot;double data rate&quot; is where the 800 MHz DRAM frequency becomes 1600 MHz, since 800x2=1600. This is not the same as memory channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [SO-DIMM](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SO-DIMM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO-DIMM, or &quot;small outline dual in-line memory module&quot;, simply refers to the smaller size of the memory compared to their &quot;normal&quot; desktop DIMM counterparts. DDR3 SO-DIMMS have 204 pins. **You will need a SO-DIMM module to work in your laptop.** Though DIMMs and SO-DIMMs are electrically compatible (there are even adapters from SO-DIMM to DIMM), trying to squeeze a full sized DIMM into your laptop lies somewhere between absurd and impossible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Voltages](https://superuser.com/questions/662033/can-you-have-pc3l-and-pc3-ram-together)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DDR3 offers three&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; different voltages that modules can operate at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - **DDR3** or **PC3** is the Standard Voltage memory module that operates at    **1.50V**&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - **DDR3L** or **PC3L** is the Low Voltage memory module that operates at **1.35V** &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - **DDR3U** or **PC3U** is the Ultra Low Voltage memory module that operates at    **1.25V**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your motherboard specifies the standard voltage DDR3; **I'd recommend buying normal DDR3.** Most DDR3L/DDR3U can operate at the higher 1.50V (check the spec sheet first though), but you'll be paying a premium for a feature you won't be using.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory speed is like the water speed in a pipe: the faster, the more throughput, the better. There's a decent amount of nuance to this, but basically, **get whatever's cheapest.** [RAM speed (for most workloads) doesn't make enough of an impact to justify the additional price that comes with faster memory.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk) [Faster RAM can usually run slower](https://superuser.com/questions/753502/what-happens-if-i-use-ram-of-a-faster-speed-than-the-cpu-supports), so don't worry about that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Channels](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-D8fhsXqq4o)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea here is pretty simple: channels act as an exact multiplier for bandwidth! Imagine having one pipe versus two pipes. [This tends to make a larger performance impact than speed](https://us.hardware.info/reviews/7417/5/single-dual-and-quad-channel-memory-performance-more-lanes-more-speed-benchmarks-games) (especially since the change in bandwidth is so much higher.) **I'd recommend running your memory in dual channel; that is, having two compatible sticks.** (This last bit is important; we'll come back to it.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Timings&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Timings refer to a grouping of specifications that relate to the the latency within a module of memory.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yed-a9vqTYc) This gets fairly technical fairly fast, but the general principle is **lower is better, [but it basically doesn't matter](http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/memory-timings-affect-real-world-computer-performance/7/).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Phew, that's a lot to [digest!](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pineapple)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you've already got a 4GB module, it makes sense IMO to get another 4GB module. No problem then: find the cheapest DDR3 SO-DIMM, and away! Right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No. Remember memory channels? You've only got two slots in your computer, so you *have to run in dual channel* (plus extra bandwidth!) The problem arises in that memory in the same channel may not play nice without the same speed and timings, and often even same type. While there's no hard-and-fast rule on this, you may experience some stability issues if you mix-and-match.&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, [your stick is common enough that it's not too much more expensive to just grab the same stick.](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=RMT3170EB68E9W&amp;_sop=15) For $25, I think it's worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A final word though: your laptop does support 16GB of RAM. If you decide to upgrade to that in the future, get a 2x8GB kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Footnotes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. There are a few very select exceptions to this rule. There is some limited interoperability between DDR3/DDR4 and Skylake/Kaby Lake, and some DDR2/DDR3 interoperability on select LGA 775 platforms, but these are unusual exceptions.&#xD;&#xA;2. There's also [LPDDR3](https://blogs.synopsys.com/committedtomemory/2014/01/10/when-is-lpddr3-not-lpddr3-when-its-ddr3l/) (different from DDR3L!), which draws even less power. However, these chips must be directly soldered to the motherboard (like in the MacBook Air.)&#xD;&#xA;3. If I'm reading your question correctly, you're mixing and matching right now; however, I'm going to recommend you refrain from that anyways." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27869" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="8c0596fb-aa37-4ea7-94dd-54d32b39ce10" CreationDate="2018-01-15T03:45:26.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27870" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="de72f9bd-5464-4090-886a-dbbad542eef5" CreationDate="2018-01-15T04:45:29.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27871" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9e7483f4-acd6-4972-ae50-258afbfee7f4" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:14:08.397" UserId="7556" Comment="Massive formatting and grammar updates, move screenshot to Imgur host." Text="I want to upgrade my Lenovo Z500 to 6GB to 8GB of RAM, but I'm confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are memory channels? Does dual channel 800 Mhz equal 1600 Mhz? Do I want DDR3 PC3 or PC3L? How many pins? Is brand important?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a screenshot of my current memory configuration: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPKgC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27872" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9e7483f4-acd6-4972-ae50-258afbfee7f4" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:14:08.397" UserId="7556" Comment="Massive formatting and grammar updates, move screenshot to Imgur host." Text="What RAM should I put in my Lenovo Z500?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27873" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9e7483f4-acd6-4972-ae50-258afbfee7f4" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:14:08.397" UserId="7556" Comment="Massive formatting and grammar updates, move screenshot to Imgur host." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27874" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="9e7483f4-acd6-4972-ae50-258afbfee7f4" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:14:08.397" Comment="Proposed by 7556 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 658" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="89bd4a5b-919e-4677-bfa4-8c6594ece913" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:14:08.397" UserId="60" Comment="Massive formatting and grammar updates, move screenshot to Imgur host." Text="I want to upgrade my Lenovo Z500 from 6GB to 8GB of RAM, but all the numbers confuse me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a screenshot of my current memory configuration: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPKgC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27876" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8746" RevisionGUID="faac748d-46bb-475d-aaaa-c3bf09fca866" CreationDate="2018-01-15T17:39:17.520" UserId="7753" Text="I want to set up a VPN network: client + server because i'm often connected to unsecured wifi network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-When the client is connected, all HTTP / HTTPS traffic must pass through the VPN&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-The client can be software (openVNP) or hardware (router)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-The server must be a device purchased and specially designed for this purpose without any firmware modification.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the client, I will use OpenVPN as beginning (later a router as clientVPN). And for the server I thought of this: https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-LRT214/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think about the server ? Any advice is welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: i'm working under windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27877" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8746" RevisionGUID="faac748d-46bb-475d-aaaa-c3bf09fca866" CreationDate="2018-01-15T17:39:17.520" UserId="7753" Text="What VPN Device should I get to hide my http traffic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27878" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8746" RevisionGUID="faac748d-46bb-475d-aaaa-c3bf09fca866" CreationDate="2018-01-15T17:39:17.520" UserId="7753" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27879" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="56fc976a-f64e-426a-8de3-c02b0eca782c" CreationDate="2018-01-15T22:48:48.940" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8747" RevisionGUID="552cb194-30fe-4f14-9080-47f43a4eda80" CreationDate="2018-01-16T02:01:55.327" UserId="1921" Text="Asus PRIME X399-A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right from the manual&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![specs][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And it supports 2 ssd of the m.2 variety.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can put any size card in an x16 slot.  However, note 2 of the x16 slots operate in x8 mode, but that is still more than x4 card needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets forget the RAID at least for speed.&#xD;&#xA;The M.2 SSD can clobber any expensive raid.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&amp;O=&amp;Q=&amp;ap=y&amp;c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrBf8KGzl6AJd8odxhLmOkT4PiP4B0gpyKEU5EvVg36xr7F-HVn733caAuGDEALw_wcB&amp;is=REG&amp;m=Y&amp;sku=1288028&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sequential Read Speed 	Up to 3,500 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;Sequential Write Speed 	Up to 2,100 MB/s &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will take 10 extremely fast hard drives to even match the write speed.  This is about equivalent to 4-7 regular SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4th3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/up5iD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8747" RevisionGUID="5a3c741c-8c7a-48c3-8834-f0a50c057367" CreationDate="2018-01-16T02:15:44.420" UserId="1921" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="Asus PRIME X399-A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does support RAID 0,1, and 10&#xD;&#xA;However RAID 1 is kind pointless especially if you use SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right from the manual&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![specs][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And it supports 2 ssd of the m.2 variety.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can put any size card in an x16 slot.  However, note 2 of the x16 slots operate in x8 mode, but that is still more than x4 card needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets forget the RAID at least for speed.&#xD;&#xA;The M.2 SSD can clobber any expensive raid.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&amp;O=&amp;Q=&amp;ap=y&amp;c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrBf8KGzl6AJd8odxhLmOkT4PiP4B0gpyKEU5EvVg36xr7F-HVn733caAuGDEALw_wcB&amp;is=REG&amp;m=Y&amp;sku=1288028&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sequential Read Speed 	Up to 3,500 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;Sequential Write Speed 	Up to 2,100 MB/s &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will take 10 extremely fast hard drives to even match the write speed.  This is about equivalent to 4-7 regular SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4th3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/up5iD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27884" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="f3b61823-c19f-48e2-b2dc-55e2dd79c6cf" CreationDate="2018-01-16T06:51:58.957" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8748" RevisionGUID="79c27975-cbed-410e-9180-55af82ddc194" CreationDate="2018-01-16T08:05:29.620" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Option 3 (way down at the bottom) with a Node 202&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because upgradability and the experience with your son seem to be important to you, I'm going to rule laptops, NUCs, and other prebuilt solutions out of hand. To be clear, this isn't to say that a laptop + evideo card or something along those lines would be a particular poor solution in terms of the end product–I might even argue better–but it seems to conflict with your mission.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that in mind, it's time to build a SFF PC!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Point-by-point&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Your $400-600 budget is *plenty* to build even a complete machine, so I'll focus on a few options: 1. Kitting out the build with great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade. 2. A solid new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades. 3. A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Linux support is virtually universal these days. I won't be focusing on building a computer that's open from top to bottom (if you want to avoid the IME/TPM check out [this post](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8469/looking-to-upgrade-my-cpu-while-avoiding-the-intel-management-engine-or-amd-plat/8538#8538), and read up on Coreboot/Libreboot), as it's both difficult and not really the focus of this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Every system here will boot from day 1. Performance will obviously be the best with the 3rd option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. We'll come back to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. They'll all be small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. We'll come back to this a bit more later–there's plenty of reasons to go either AMD or Intel, and I'll only focus on performance–but Meltdown and Spectre specifically won't be discussed. [While numbers are still coming out](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8697/new-computer-in-light-of-meltdown-and-spectre/8701#8701) and nothing is final, Meltdown's hit appears to be fairly minor in gaming–syscalls is where it hits the worst. Spectre is pretty much architecture aignostic (present on both AMD and Intel chips as well as ARM) with no clear fix, so nothing can really be done there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. We'll come back to this more later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. Low power is dependent on what you throw in there, and yes, does slightly clash with light gaming. Quiet is more dependent on form factor. We'll touch on this again more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Most computer components these days do quite well on quality. The only places we'll really be concerned with this are the case and used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. Peripherals will be covered separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I'm going to recommend the **Node 202** on personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Very small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Dr. Zaber Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home)&#xD;&#xA;**$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. [They're apparently targeting Q1 2018](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833), but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NFC Skyreach 4 MINI](http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the smallest case in this category, but with that come some serious compromises. video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed: a [$95 400W DC-DC](https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html) and a [$58 200W DC-DC.](https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w) If you really value space, this is the way to go; but otherwise, I'd stay away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DAN A4-SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php)&#xD;&#xA;**$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pretty small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NCASE M1](https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1)&#xD;&#xA;**$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Fractal Design Node 202](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202)&#xD;&#xA;**[$80](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) or [$130 with a 450W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus), 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone FTZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533) [RVZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01), [RVZ02](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02), and [RVZ03](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03)&#xD;&#xA;**[$85](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) to [$130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b), 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone ML08](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607)&#xD;&#xA;**[$70](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b), 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mention&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat, but the 250mm video card support kills my recommendation. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Not as small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're bigger with support for more things! They're also **much quieter.** Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [BitFenix Prodigy](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/)&#xD;&#xA;**[$60](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp), 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HardwareCanucks put it best:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI) It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mentions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair 380T](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case) is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The [Silverstone CS01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b) is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The [Cougar QBX](https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/) and [Fractal Design Define Nano S](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window) are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Components&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be leaving out case recommendations from these options; choose whatever you think is best. If you end up needing an SFX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#t=10&amp;sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4,2) and get whatever wattage you need; if you need an ATX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4&amp;t=2,4,5&amp;p=1,2). CPU cooler is likewise dependent on case selection, but I'll be using the stock cooler as reference, or the Cryorig C7 when not applicable. I'm allocating about $130 to these parts from the rest of these builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final thoughts: **I would personally go with option #3.** Used components are a great way to get value on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## AMD vs. Intel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To keep things simple, right now, on a $/performance basis, on the middle-high end, AMD wins in heavily multithreaded workloads, and Intel wins in single threaded workloads. Intel also wins in power consumption (though most of that will ultimately come from the GPU.) Given that gaming appears to be your intended use case, I'd recommend Intel. That said, I'm going to provide AMD builds as an option anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Looks&#xD;&#xA;Because this is likely going to be stuffed in a small case, I didn't bother concerning myself with looks at all. That said, if you do decide this is something important, you can of course tune the parametric filters to have the colors of your choice, and get a heatspreader if the M.2 drive is ugly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 1&#xD;&#xA;**Great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Intel List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sZvxLD)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3Nef.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU is a fairly obvious choice here: the i3-8350K offers fast 4c/4t unlocked for a great price. While Z370 is a tad expensive right now, it offers room to upgrade up to 6c/12t in the future.&#xD;&#xA;- Because there's no stock cooler, the Cryorig C7 stands in. As I said before, this will depend on case selection.&#xD;&#xA;- Since we've got an unlocked processor, we'll want a Z series board. Wi-Fi is nice while on the go, and not much more expensive, so with a little parametric filtering, we arrive that the ASRock Z370M-ITX/ac.&#xD;&#xA;- RAM here is a bit funny. Normally I recommend &quot;get whatever's cheapest!&quot;, as [RAM speed (for most workloads) doesn't make enough of an impact to justify the additional price that comes with faster memory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk). However, because we'll be relying on integrated graphics for a little while, I decided the fairly low bump to 2666 was worth it.&#xD;&#xA;- [The 850 EVO is fairly fast, and quite good value.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com) I chose an M.2 drive as minimizing the number of cables you have to deal with in a small form factor PC is really quite nice. You're paying a bit of a premium (roughly $20), but I think it's worth it. If you don't care, feel free to step down to a SATA drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHsNkT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9JQG.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM and storage remain the same as the Intel build.&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen's performance scales about as you'd expect as you head up the line. Though Ryzen 3s are also quad cores (even with higher clocks!), because of the CCX layout, the 1400 slots into the stack about where you'd expect. It's not beating an i3-8350K, but hey–it's Ryzen.&#xD;&#xA;- Options for AM4 ITX boards–even compared to the limited options on Z370–are pretty sparse. Limiting it to ITX with Wi-Fi squeezed it down to a total of three boards. I picked the cheapest from there–however, I'm not a big fan of Gigabyte. Their products are perfectly good, but their support is awful–it took me about a year to get an RMA from them. If you're willing to do the extra $20, I'd get the [ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac.](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nG98TW/asrock-ab350-gaming-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-ab350-gaming-itxac)&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen unfortunately lacks integrated graphics. This means we're stuck buying a GPU we don't really want, which with our budget, basically leaves the GT 1030. Don't get me wrong, it's a card with a place (read: low wattage)–but spending $75 on one isn't a great use of money IMO. I'd rather get a used card, [like the HD 7870 for around $68](https://us.bidvoy.net/HD7870/27386), or even a [GTX 460 for around $25.](https://us.bidvoy.net/GTX_460/27386).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 2. &#xD;&#xA;**A new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel unfortunately just doesn't have a CPU in the Coffee Lake lineup at this price point, so no build from them there. I'm not going to recommend last-gen hardware in a build for which upgradability is the main selling point either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/twHgd6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gKAp.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU has been stepped down to a 4c/4t Bulldozer APU. It's not going to provide amazing performance, but it'll do, and we can keep our board around for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;- The board needs to support integrated graphics as well now, but we ended up with the same board anyways. ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ &#xD;&#xA;- Memory remains the same&#xD;&#xA;- I've stepped the storage down to a 1TB hybrid drive. It's not perfect, but it'll do for a while, and make for a great secondary drive in the future after upgrading to a pure SSD for the boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 3. &#xD;&#xA;**A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, there's no neat PCPartPicker list for this, but that's what happens with used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel X3440 Quad Core 2.53GHz LGA 1156 | [$16](https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;initiative_id=SB_20180115224359&amp;SearchText=x3440)&#xD;&#xA; - It's an overclockable 4c/8t for $16. What more can you want? Well, SATA 3 support–but this isn't going to bottleneck except in sequential reads, and even then, [it won't be too bad.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/Rating/2977)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_nkw=GA-H55N-USB3&amp;_in_kw=1&amp;_ex_kw=&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_udlo=&amp;_udhi=&amp;_samilow=&amp;_samihi=&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&amp;_salic=1&amp;_sop=12&amp;_dmd=1&amp;_ipg=50&amp;LH_Complete=1)&#xD;&#xA; - It's not the easiest to find, but it appears to be the only ITX board with eSATA, Wi-Fi, and (most importantly) USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you've having difficulty finding that motherboard...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-2500k Quad Core 3.30GHz LGA 1155 | [$60](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_2500k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Unlocked 4c/4t for a good price&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=14&amp;f=8&amp;c=42,50,51,52&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8) | $110&#xD;&#xA; - Again, rather hard to find, but worth it if you can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you're still having trouble...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-4670k Quad Core LGA 1150 | [$130](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_4670k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Another unlocked 4c/4t, just more expensive. At this point it's not much cheaper than an i3-8350k, but you'll save a bit on platform cost.&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=89,99&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8&amp;f=8) | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=z87+itx&amp;_sop=12&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_dmd=1&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_ipg=50&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xz87+itx+wifi.TRS1&amp;_nkw=z87+itx+wifi&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA; - There's significantly better availability for mITX 1150 boards, so I'd have no worries about finding one of these&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Cooler | Cryorig C7 | [$30](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Lbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-c7)&#xD;&#xA; - Same reasoning as before.&#xD;&#xA;- Memory | 2x8GB DDR3 | [$90](https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8gb_ddr3/170083)&#xD;&#xA; - It's still much lower than DDR4 prices, but the RAM shortages have tricked down to last gen as well. Again, speed isn't a big factor here–especially since we won't be using integrated graphics.&#xD;&#xA;- Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD | [$90](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kL7YJ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam)&#xD;&#xA; -  We'll stick with the 850 EVO from earlier for the same reasons, though we'll need to use a 2.5&quot; SATA drive rather than M.2 (unless you manage to get one of the five Z97 boards on the list that have an M.2 slot.)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU | Reference GTX 960 4GB | [$130](https://us.bidvoy.net/gtx_960_4gb/27386)&#xD;&#xA; - Unfortunately, the GTX 960 is pretty much the cap for budget–stepping up to even a GTX 970 is $70 more. One of the issues here is that power consumption really does start to play a role–not just because we want to keep out system cool and quiet, but because high-wattage SFX PSUs are expensive. This rules out older cards like the GTX 780 and AMD cards from the era. The GTX 1050 Ti is currently just too expensive, with AMD cards being sold out almost entirely thanks to mining.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TOTAL: $436-$550**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The savings aren't as much with mITX systems as full towers, but it's still a good chunk of change for significantly better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### AMD List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's older offerings just simply aren't competitive, and stock is much lower to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Peripherals&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm too tired to go into this in too much depth–and I think it might warrant its own question–but the [Roccat Sova MK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJEBaeiSwkM) for M/KB, and a PS4/Xbox One controller if you want a controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that's about it! I hope this helped, and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27886" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8748" RevisionGUID="da8d6ab3-4bfa-4af1-a62d-957b746a0906" CreationDate="2018-01-16T08:17:51.637" UserId="7556" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Option 3 (way down at the bottom) with a Node 202&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because upgradability and the experience with your son seem to be important to you, I'm going to rule laptops, NUCs, and other prebuilt solutions out of hand. To be clear, this isn't to say that a laptop + evideo card or something along those lines would be a particular poor solution in terms of the end product–I might even argue better–but it seems to conflict with your mission.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that in mind, it's time to build a SFF PC!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Point-by-point&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Your $400-600 budget is *plenty* to build even a complete machine, so I'll focus on a few options: 1. Kitting out the build with great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade. 2. A solid new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades. 3. A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Linux support is virtually universal these days. I won't be focusing on building a computer that's open from top to bottom (if you want to avoid the IME/TPM check out [this post](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8469/looking-to-upgrade-my-cpu-while-avoiding-the-intel-management-engine-or-amd-plat/8538#8538), and read up on Coreboot/Libreboot), as it's both difficult and not really the focus of this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Every system here will boot from day 1. Performance will obviously be the best with the 3rd option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. We'll come back to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. They'll all be small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. We'll come back to this a bit more later–there's plenty of reasons to go either AMD or Intel, and I'll only focus on performance–but Meltdown and Spectre specifically won't be discussed. [While numbers are still coming out](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8697/new-computer-in-light-of-meltdown-and-spectre/8701#8701) and nothing is final, Meltdown's hit appears to be fairly minor in gaming–syscalls is where it hits the worst. Spectre is pretty much architecture aignostic (present on both AMD and Intel chips as well as ARM) with no clear fix, so nothing can really be done there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. We'll come back to this more later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. Low power is dependent on what you throw in there, and yes, does slightly clash with light gaming. Quiet is more dependent on form factor. We'll touch on this again more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Most computer components these days do quite well on quality. The only places we'll really be concerned with this are the case and used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. Peripherals will be covered separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I'm going to recommend the **Node 202** on personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Very small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Dr. Zaber Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home)&#xD;&#xA;**$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. [They're apparently targeting Q1 2018](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833), but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NFC Skyreach 4 MINI](http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the smallest case in this category, but with that come some serious compromises. video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed: a [$95 400W DC-DC](https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html) and a [$58 200W DC-DC.](https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w) If you really value space, this is the way to go; but otherwise, I'd stay away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DAN A4-SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php)&#xD;&#xA;**$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pretty small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NCASE M1](https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1)&#xD;&#xA;**$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Fractal Design Node 202](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202)&#xD;&#xA;**[$80](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) or [$130 with a 450W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus), 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone FTZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533) [RVZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01), [RVZ02](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02), and [RVZ03](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03)&#xD;&#xA;**[$85](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) to [$130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b), 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone ML08](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607)&#xD;&#xA;**[$70](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b), 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mention&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat, but the 250mm video card support kills my recommendation. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Not as small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're bigger with support for more things! They're also **much quieter.** Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [BitFenix Prodigy](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/)&#xD;&#xA;**[$60](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp), 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HardwareCanucks put it best:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI) It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mentions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair 380T](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case) is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The [Silverstone CS01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b) is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The [Cougar QBX](https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/) and [Fractal Design Define Nano S](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window) are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Components&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be leaving out case recommendations from these options; choose whatever you think is best. If you end up needing an SFX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#t=10&amp;sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4,2) and get whatever wattage you need; if you need an ATX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4&amp;t=2,4,5&amp;p=1,2). CPU cooler is likewise dependent on case selection, but I'll be using the stock cooler as reference, or the Cryorig C7 when not applicable. I'm allocating about $130 to these parts from the rest of these builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final thoughts: **I would personally go with option #3.** Used components are a great way to get value on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## AMD vs. Intel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To keep things simple, right now, on a $/performance basis, on the middle-high end, AMD wins in heavily multithreaded workloads, and Intel wins in single threaded workloads. Intel also wins in power consumption (though most of that will ultimately come from the GPU.) Given that gaming appears to be your intended use case, I'd recommend Intel. That said, I'm going to provide AMD builds as an option anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Looks&#xD;&#xA;Because this is likely going to be stuffed in a small case, I didn't bother concerning myself with looks at all. That said, if you do decide this is something important, you can of course tune the parametric filters to have the colors of your choice, and get a heatspreader if the M.2 drive is ugly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 1&#xD;&#xA;**Great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Intel List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sZvxLD)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3Nef.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU is a fairly obvious choice here: the i3-8350K offers fast 4c/4t unlocked for a great price. While Z370 is a tad expensive right now, it offers room to upgrade up to 6c/12t in the future.&#xD;&#xA;- Because there's no stock cooler, the Cryorig C7 stands in. As I said before, this will depend on case selection.&#xD;&#xA;- Since we've got an unlocked processor, we'll want a Z series board. Wi-Fi is nice while on the go, and not much more expensive, so with a little parametric filtering, we arrive that the ASRock Z370M-ITX/ac.&#xD;&#xA;- RAM here is a bit funny. Normally I recommend &quot;get whatever's cheapest!&quot;, as [RAM speed (for most workloads) doesn't make enough of an impact to justify the additional price that comes with faster memory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk). However, because we'll be relying on integrated graphics for a little while, I decided the fairly low bump to 2666 was worth it.&#xD;&#xA;- [The 850 EVO is fairly fast, and quite good value.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com) I chose an M.2 drive as minimizing the number of cables you have to deal with in a small form factor PC is really quite nice. You're paying a bit of a premium (roughly $20), but I think it's worth it. If you don't care, feel free to step down to a SATA drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHsNkT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9JQG.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM and storage remain the same as the Intel build.&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen's performance scales about as you'd expect as you head up the line. Though Ryzen 3s are also quad cores (even with higher clocks!), because of the CCX layout, the 1400 slots into the stack about where you'd expect. It's not beating an i3-8350K, but hey–it's Ryzen.&#xD;&#xA;- Options for AM4 ITX boards–even compared to the limited options on Z370–are pretty sparse. Limiting it to ITX with Wi-Fi squeezed it down to a total of three boards. I picked the cheapest from there–however, I'm not a big fan of Gigabyte. Their products are perfectly good, but their support is awful–it took me about a year to get an RMA from them. If you're willing to do the extra $20, I'd get the [ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac.](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nG98TW/asrock-ab350-gaming-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-ab350-gaming-itxac)&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen unfortunately lacks integrated graphics. This means we're stuck buying a GPU we don't really want, which with our budget, basically leaves the GT 1030. Don't get me wrong, it's a card with a place (read: low wattage)–but spending $75 on one isn't a great use of money IMO. I'd rather get a used card, [like the HD 7870 for around $68](https://us.bidvoy.net/HD7870/27386), or even a [GTX 460 for around $25.](https://us.bidvoy.net/GTX_460/27386).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 2. &#xD;&#xA;**A new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel unfortunately just doesn't have a CPU in the Coffee Lake lineup at this price point, so no build from them there. I'm not going to recommend last-gen hardware in a build for which upgradability is the main selling point either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/twHgd6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gKAp.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU has been stepped down to a 4c/4t Bulldozer APU. It's not going to provide amazing performance, but it'll do, and we can keep our board around for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;- The board needs to support integrated graphics as well now, but we ended up with the same board anyways. ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ &#xD;&#xA;- Memory remains the same&#xD;&#xA;- I've stepped the storage down to a 1TB hybrid drive. It's not perfect, but it'll do for a while, and make for a great secondary drive in the future after upgrading to a pure SSD for the boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 3. &#xD;&#xA;**A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, there's no neat PCPartPicker list for this, but that's what happens with used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel X3440 Quad Core 2.53GHz LGA 1156 | [$16](https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;initiative_id=SB_20180115224359&amp;SearchText=x3440)&#xD;&#xA; - It's an overclockable 4c/8t for $16. What more can you want? Well, SATA 3 support–but this isn't going to bottleneck except in sequential reads, and even then, [it won't be too bad.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/Rating/2977)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_nkw=GA-H55N-USB3&amp;_in_kw=1&amp;_ex_kw=&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_udlo=&amp;_udhi=&amp;_samilow=&amp;_samihi=&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&amp;_salic=1&amp;_sop=12&amp;_dmd=1&amp;_ipg=50&amp;LH_Complete=1)&#xD;&#xA; - It's not the easiest to find, but it appears to be the only ITX board with eSATA, Wi-Fi, and (most importantly) USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you've having difficulty finding that motherboard...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-2500k Quad Core 3.30GHz LGA 1155 | [$60](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_2500k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Unlocked 4c/4t for a good price&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=14&amp;f=8&amp;c=42,50,51,52&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8) | $110&#xD;&#xA; - Again, rather hard to find, but worth it if you can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you're still having trouble...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-4670k Quad Core LGA 1150 | [$130](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_4670k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Another unlocked 4c/4t, just more expensive. At this point it's not much cheaper than an i3-8350k, but you'll save a bit on platform cost.&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=89,99&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8&amp;f=8) | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=z87+itx&amp;_sop=12&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_dmd=1&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_ipg=50&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xz87+itx+wifi.TRS1&amp;_nkw=z87+itx+wifi&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA; - There's significantly better availability for mITX 1150 boards, so I'd have no worries about finding one of these&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Cooler | Cryorig C7 | [$30](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Lbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-c7)&#xD;&#xA; - Same reasoning as before.&#xD;&#xA;- Memory | 2x8GB DDR3 | [$90](https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8gb_ddr3/170083)&#xD;&#xA; - It's still much lower than DDR4 prices, but the RAM shortages have tricked down to last gen as well. Again, speed isn't a big factor here–especially since we won't be using integrated graphics.&#xD;&#xA;- Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD | [$90](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kL7YJ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam)&#xD;&#xA; -  We'll stick with the 850 EVO from earlier for the same reasons, though we'll need to use a 2.5&quot; SATA drive rather than M.2 (unless you manage to get one of the five Z97 boards on the list that have an M.2 slot.)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU | Reference GTX 960 4GB | [$130](https://us.bidvoy.net/gtx_960_4gb/27386)&#xD;&#xA; - Because we'll be installing the card in a small form factor case, [we'll want a blower-style GPU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiDZNT7mxLQ) to keep from dumping hot air back into the case.&#xD;&#xA; - Unfortunately, the GTX 960 is pretty much the cap for budget–stepping up to even a GTX 970 is $70 more. One of the issues here is that power consumption really does start to play a role–not just because we want to keep out system cool and quiet, but because high-wattage SFX PSUs are expensive. This rules out older cards like the GTX 780 and AMD cards from the era. The GTX 1050 Ti is currently just too expensive, with AMD cards being sold out almost entirely thanks to mining.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TOTAL: $436-$550**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The savings aren't as much with mITX systems as full towers, but it's still a good chunk of change for significantly better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### AMD List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's older offerings just simply aren't competitive, and stock is much lower to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Peripherals&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm too tired to go into this in too much depth–and I think it might warrant its own question–but the [Roccat Sova MK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJEBaeiSwkM) for M/KB, and a PS4/Xbox One controller if you want a controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that's about it! I hope this helped, and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27887" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="2617983c-a885-4fba-8fec-ee8093bdd7d5" CreationDate="2018-01-16T08:52:00.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8748" RevisionGUID="b2d5dbef-7bff-4a1c-9293-3b52d00a0cf6" CreationDate="2018-01-16T11:19:33.273" UserId="7556" Comment="added 425 characters in body" Text="# TL;DR: Option 3 (way down at the bottom) with a Node 202&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because upgradability and the experience with your son seem to be important to you, I'm going to rule laptops, NUCs, and other prebuilt solutions out of hand. To be clear, this isn't to say that a laptop + evideo card or something along those lines would be a particular poor solution in terms of the end product–I might even argue better–but it seems to conflict with your mission.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that in mind, it's time to build a SFF PC!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Point-by-point&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Your $400-600 budget is *plenty* to build even a complete machine, so I'll focus on a few options: 1. Kitting out the build with great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade. 2. A solid new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades. 3. A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Linux support is virtually universal these days. I won't be focusing on building a computer that's open from top to bottom (if you want to avoid the IME/TPM check out [this post](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8469/looking-to-upgrade-my-cpu-while-avoiding-the-intel-management-engine-or-amd-plat/8538#8538), and read up on Coreboot/Libreboot), as it's both difficult and not really the focus of this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Every system here will boot from day 1. Performance will obviously be the best with the 3rd option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. We'll come back to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. They'll all be small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. We'll come back to this a bit more later–there's plenty of reasons to go either AMD or Intel, and I'll only focus on performance–but Meltdown and Spectre specifically won't be discussed. [While numbers are still coming out](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8697/new-computer-in-light-of-meltdown-and-spectre/8701#8701) and nothing is final, Meltdown's hit appears to be fairly minor in gaming–syscalls is where it hits the worst. Spectre is pretty much architecture aignostic (present on both AMD and Intel chips as well as ARM) with no clear fix, so nothing can really be done there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. We'll come back to this more later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. Low power is dependent on what you throw in there, and yes, does slightly clash with light gaming. Quiet is more dependent on form factor. We'll touch on this again more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. Most computer components these days do quite well on quality. The only places we'll really be concerned with this are the case and used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. Peripherals will be covered separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I'm going to recommend the **Node 202** on personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Very small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Dr. Zaber Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home)&#xD;&#xA;**$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. [They're apparently targeting Q1 2018](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833), but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NFC Skyreach 4 MINI](http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the smallest case in this category, but with that come some serious compromises. video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed: a [$95 400W DC-DC](https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html) and a [$58 200W DC-DC.](https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w) If you really value space, this is the way to go; but otherwise, I'd stay away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DAN A4-SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php)&#xD;&#xA;**$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pretty small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NCASE M1](https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1)&#xD;&#xA;**$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Fractal Design Node 202](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202)&#xD;&#xA;**[$80](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) or [$130 with a 450W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus), 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone FTZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533) [RVZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01), [RVZ02](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02), and [RVZ03](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03)&#xD;&#xA;**[$85](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) to [$130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b), 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone ML08](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607)&#xD;&#xA;**[$70](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b), 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mention&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat, but the 250mm video card support kills my recommendation. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Not as small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're bigger with support for more things! They're also **much quieter.** Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [BitFenix Prodigy](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/)&#xD;&#xA;**[$60](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp), 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HardwareCanucks put it best:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI) It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mentions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair 380T](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case) is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The [Silverstone CS01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b) is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The [Cougar QBX](https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/) and [Fractal Design Define Nano S](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window) are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Components&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be leaving out case recommendations from these options; choose whatever you think is best. If you end up needing an SFX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#t=10&amp;sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4,2) and get whatever wattage you need; if you need an ATX PSU, use [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#sort=price&amp;m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&amp;e=6,5,4&amp;t=2,4,5&amp;p=1,2). CPU cooler is likewise dependent on case selection, but I'll be using the stock cooler as reference, or the Cryorig C7 when not applicable. I'm allocating about $130 to these parts from the rest of these builds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final thoughts: **I would personally go with option #3.** Used components are a great way to get value on a budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## AMD vs. Intel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To keep things simple, right now, on a $/performance basis, on the middle-high end, AMD wins in heavily multithreaded workloads, and Intel wins in single threaded workloads. Intel also wins in power consumption (though most of that will ultimately come from the GPU.) Given that gaming appears to be your intended use case, I'd recommend Intel. That said, I'm going to provide AMD builds as an option anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Looks&#xD;&#xA;Because this is likely going to be stuffed in a small case, I didn't bother concerning myself with looks at all. That said, if you do decide this is something important, you can of course tune the parametric filters to have the colors of your choice, and get a heatspreader if the M.2 drive is ugly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 1&#xD;&#xA;**Great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Intel List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sZvxLD)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3Nef.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU is a fairly obvious choice here: the i3-8350K offers fast 4c/4t unlocked for a great price. While Z370 is a tad expensive right now, it offers room to upgrade up to 6c/12t in the future.&#xD;&#xA;- Because there's no stock cooler, the Cryorig C7 stands in. As I said before, this will depend on case selection.&#xD;&#xA;- Since we've got an unlocked processor, we'll want a Z series board. Wi-Fi is nice while on the go, and not much more expensive, so with a little parametric filtering, we arrive that the ASRock Z370M-ITX/ac.&#xD;&#xA;- RAM here is a bit funny. Normally I recommend &quot;get whatever's cheapest!&quot;, as [RAM speed (for most workloads) doesn't make enough of an impact to justify the additional price that comes with faster memory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk). However, because we'll be relying on integrated graphics for a little while, I decided the fairly low bump to 2666 was worth it.&#xD;&#xA;- [The 850 EVO is fairly fast, and quite good value.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com) I chose an M.2 drive as minimizing the number of cables you have to deal with in a small form factor PC is really quite nice. You're paying a bit of a premium (roughly $20), but I think it's worth it. If you don't care, feel free to step down to a SATA drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHsNkT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9JQG.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM and storage remain the same as the Intel build.&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen's performance scales about as you'd expect as you head up the line. Though Ryzen 3s are also quad cores (even with higher clocks!), because of the CCX layout, the 1400 slots into the stack about where you'd expect. It's not beating an i3-8350K, but hey–it's Ryzen.&#xD;&#xA;- Options for AM4 ITX boards–even compared to the limited options on Z370–are pretty sparse. Limiting it to ITX with Wi-Fi squeezed it down to a total of three boards. I picked the cheapest from there–however, I'm not a big fan of Gigabyte. Their products are perfectly good, but their support is awful–it took me about a year to get an RMA from them. If you're willing to do the extra $20, I'd get the [ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac.](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nG98TW/asrock-ab350-gaming-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-ab350-gaming-itxac)&#xD;&#xA;- Ryzen unfortunately lacks integrated graphics. This means we're stuck buying a GPU we don't really want, which with our budget, basically leaves the GT 1030. Don't get me wrong, it's a card with a place (read: low wattage)–but spending $75 on one isn't a great use of money IMO. I'd rather get a used card, [like the HD 7870 for around $68](https://us.bidvoy.net/HD7870/27386), or even a [GTX 460 for around $25.](https://us.bidvoy.net/GTX_460/27386).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 2. &#xD;&#xA;**A new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel unfortunately just doesn't have a CPU in the Coffee Lake lineup at this price point, so no build from them there. I'm not going to recommend last-gen hardware in a build for which upgradability is the main selling point either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [AMD List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/twHgd6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gKAp.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU has been stepped down to a 4c/4t Bulldozer APU. It's not going to provide amazing performance, but it'll do, and we can keep our board around for an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;- The board needs to support integrated graphics as well now, but we ended up with the same board anyways. ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ &#xD;&#xA;- Memory remains the same&#xD;&#xA;- I've stepped the storage down to a 1TB hybrid drive. It's not perfect, but it'll do for a while, and make for a great secondary drive in the future after upgrading to a pure SSD for the boot drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Option 3. &#xD;&#xA;**A &quot;game-now&quot; system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Intel List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, there's no neat PCPartPicker list for this, but that's what happens with used components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel X3440 Quad Core 2.53GHz LGA 1156 | [$16](https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;initiative_id=SB_20180115224359&amp;SearchText=x3440)&#xD;&#xA; - It's an overclockable 4c/8t for $16. What more can you want? Well, SATA 3 support–but this isn't going to bottleneck except in sequential reads, and even then, [it won't be too bad.](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/Rating/2977)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_nkw=GA-H55N-USB3&amp;_in_kw=1&amp;_ex_kw=&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_udlo=&amp;_udhi=&amp;_samilow=&amp;_samihi=&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&amp;_salic=1&amp;_sop=12&amp;_dmd=1&amp;_ipg=50&amp;LH_Complete=1)&#xD;&#xA; - It's not the easiest to find, but it appears to be the only ITX board with eSATA, Wi-Fi, and (most importantly) USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, if you've having difficulty finding that motherboard...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-2500k Quad Core 3.30GHz LGA 1155 | [$60](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_2500k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Unlocked 4c/4t for a good price&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=14&amp;f=8&amp;c=42,50,51,52&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8) | $110&#xD;&#xA; - Again, rather hard to find, but worth it if you can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if you're still having trouble...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU | Intel i5-4670k Quad Core LGA 1150 | [$130](https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_4670k/164)&#xD;&#xA; - Another unlocked 4c/4t, just more expensive. At this point it's not much cheaper than an i3-8350k, but you'll save a bit on platform cost.&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard | [One of these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=89,99&amp;e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8&amp;f=8) | [$80](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=z87+itx&amp;_sop=12&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_dmd=1&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_ipg=50&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xz87+itx+wifi.TRS1&amp;_nkw=z87+itx+wifi&amp;_sacat=0)&#xD;&#xA; - There's significantly better availability for mITX 1150 boards, so I'd have no worries about finding one of these&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Cooler | Cryorig C7 | [$30](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Lbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-c7)&#xD;&#xA; - Same reasoning as before.&#xD;&#xA;- Memory | 2x8GB DDR3 | [$90](https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8gb_ddr3/170083)&#xD;&#xA; - It's still much lower than DDR4 prices, but the RAM shortages have tricked down to last gen as well. Again, speed isn't a big factor here–especially since we won't be using integrated graphics.&#xD;&#xA; - Depending, you may find it worth stepping down to 8GB of DDR3 in order to get a component you want–likely a GPU.&#xD;&#xA;- Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD | [$90](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kL7YJ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam)&#xD;&#xA; -  We'll stick with the 850 EVO from earlier for the same reasons, though we'll need to use a 2.5&quot; SATA drive rather than M.2 (unless you manage to get one of the five Z97 boards on the list that have an M.2 slot.)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU | Reference GTX 970 4GB | [$190](https://us.bidvoy.net/reference_gtx_970/27386)&#xD;&#xA; - Because we'll be installing the card in a small form factor case, [we'll want a blower-style GPU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiDZNT7mxLQ) to keep from dumping hot air back into the case.&#xD;&#xA; - Unfortunately, the GTX 970 is pretty much the cap for budget–stepping this up to from a GTX 960 4GB is about $60. One of the issues here is that power consumption really does start to play a role–not just because we want to keep out system cool and quiet, but because high-wattage SFX PSUs are expensive. This rules out older cards like the GTX 780 and AMD cards from the era. Mid and high end cards are sold out across the board, thanks to mining and the subsequent card shortages; your only other option is really to [watch for stock like a hawk](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=GPU&amp;sort=new&amp;restrict_sr=on&amp;feature=legacy_search) and hope that a GTX 1060 is in stock.&#xD;&#xA; - Depending on what deals you find, you may be forced down either to a GTX 960 or 8GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TOTAL: $496-$565**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The savings aren't as much with mITX systems as full towers, but it's still a good chunk of change for significantly better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### AMD List&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's older offerings just simply aren't competitive, and stock is much lower to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Peripherals&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm too tired to go into this in too much depth–and I think it might warrant its own question–but the [Roccat Sova MK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJEBaeiSwkM) for M/KB, and a PS4/Xbox One controller if you want a controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that's about it! I hope this helped, and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27890" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8241" RevisionGUID="3528617c-986c-4abd-ae86-7b8d0b676575" CreationDate="2018-01-16T20:01:23.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27891" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8729" RevisionGUID="941c1bff-a4f7-4b25-a70d-c1c9bc738fc6" CreationDate="2018-01-17T05:44:44.977" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Inexpensive NFC reader for (Windows &amp; Linux) login" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27892" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="713a9cf8-c5e7-44d9-b6f2-7e4c74b4bf1c" CreationDate="2018-01-17T07:11:33.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8750" RevisionGUID="39f651cf-4460-4c85-8080-bb33c8e648cc" CreationDate="2018-01-17T07:24:06.453" UserId="378" Text="The Samsung NX 300 can upload pictures to Facebook after you configure Wi-Fi, and presumably your Facebook username/password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;*Picture from https://globalnews.ca/news/785601/how-to-pick-the-right-wifi-digital-camera/*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article][2] talks about similar features in Canon and Nikon cameras, as well as in other Samsung models such as the affordable ST150F.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5Fbp.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://itstillworks.com/cameras-upload-facebook-via-wifi-23238.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27894" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="8750" RevisionGUID="caf42fde-3d8a-4450-b0f6-758a4a852ccc" CreationDate="2018-01-17T07:24:20.890" UserId="378" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:378,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Nicolas Raoul&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27895" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="8750" RevisionGUID="f74c7b92-8080-49f1-9e62-ef9f9d849edd" CreationDate="2018-01-17T07:27:42.230" UserId="378" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:378,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Nicolas Raoul&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="e50ed9cc-e4d9-4d85-82b7-99c7b16f69dd" CreationDate="2018-01-17T08:15:39.663" UserId="378" Text="I want a camera appropriate for shooting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 50% buildings/landscapes&#xD;&#xA;- 20% food and small objects the size of an orange&#xD;&#xA;- 20% groups of people (parties, street scenes)&#xD;&#xA;- 10% portraits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... under these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 60% outside during day&#xD;&#xA;- 20% outside during night&#xD;&#xA;- 20% inside&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Required:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS (geolocation stored in EXIF)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable Android app to pull a picture&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure setting, up to several seconds (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Stores pictures on SD card&#xD;&#xA; 1. The best picture definition/quality the better&#xD;&#xA; 1. Maximum $400 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Would be great:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Resistant to rain &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27897" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="e50ed9cc-e4d9-4d85-82b7-99c7b16f69dd" CreationDate="2018-01-17T08:15:39.663" UserId="378" Text="GPS camera for buildings/landscape/various with best definition $400 can get" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27898" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="e50ed9cc-e4d9-4d85-82b7-99c7b16f69dd" CreationDate="2018-01-17T08:15:39.663" UserId="378" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="6bdf7957-e271-472a-9257-a810ae0e610f" CreationDate="2018-01-17T08:20:50.467" UserId="378" Comment="added 76 characters in body" Text="I want a camera appropriate for shooting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 50% buildings/landscapes&#xD;&#xA;- 20% food and small objects the size of an orange&#xD;&#xA;- 20% groups of people (parties, street scenes)&#xD;&#xA;- 10% portraits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... under these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 60% outside during day&#xD;&#xA;- 20% outside during night&#xD;&#xA;- 20% inside&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Required:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS (geolocation stored in EXIF)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable Android app to pull a picture&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure setting, up to several seconds (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Stores pictures on SD card&#xD;&#xA; 1. The best picture definition/quality the better&#xD;&#xA; 1. Maximum $400 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Would be great:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Resistant to rain&#xD;&#xA; 2. Optical zoom to take acceptable pictures of both a castle 1 kilometer away, and an apple on a restaurant table. I don't think I would have enough motivation to carry different lenses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="f7126fe7-b7a4-4034-89a8-8319ac4e47a3" CreationDate="2018-01-17T08:31:18.303" UserId="378" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="I want a camera appropriate for shooting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 50% buildings/landscapes&#xD;&#xA;- 20% food and small objects the size of an orange&#xD;&#xA;- 20% groups of people (parties, street scenes)&#xD;&#xA;- 10% portraits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... under these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 60% outside during day&#xD;&#xA;- 20% outside during night&#xD;&#xA;- 20% inside&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Required:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS (geolocation stored in EXIF)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable Android app to pull a picture&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure setting, up to several seconds (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Stores pictures on SD card&#xD;&#xA; 1. The best picture definition/quality the better&#xD;&#xA; 1. Maximum $400 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Would be great:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Resistant to rain&#xD;&#xA; 2. Optical zoom to take acceptable pictures of both a castle 1 kilometer away, and an apple on a restaurant table. I don't think I would have enough motivation to carry different lenses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not really necessary but would be nice:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Flash&#xD;&#xA; 3. Android app allows to take a picture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="2ef288c0-3d6e-43ac-b410-0b9e8318ad3f" CreationDate="2018-01-17T10:16:08.097" UserId="378" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="I want a camera appropriate for shooting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 50% buildings/landscapes&#xD;&#xA;- 20% food and small objects the size of an orange&#xD;&#xA;- 20% groups of people (parties, street scenes)&#xD;&#xA;- 10% portraits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... under these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 60% outside during day&#xD;&#xA;- 20% outside during night (I don't expect great results at night)&#xD;&#xA;- 20% inside&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Required:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS (geolocation stored in EXIF)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable Android app to pull a picture&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure setting, up to several seconds (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Stores pictures on SD card&#xD;&#xA; 1. The best picture definition/quality the better&#xD;&#xA; 1. Maximum $400 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Would be great:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Resistant to rain&#xD;&#xA; 2. Optical zoom to take acceptable pictures of both a castle 1 kilometer away, and an apple on a restaurant table. I don't think I would have enough motivation to carry different lenses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not really necessary but would be nice:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Flash&#xD;&#xA; 3. Android app allows to take a picture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27902" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="cafd7d36-ab83-402d-83ac-69b25c28d6dc" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:11:35.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8752" RevisionGUID="be0e65ac-d7f6-4518-a6b3-43577595a0ce" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:18:23.330" UserId="3683" Text="[Background]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently building an application to show alarm information on a screen for our local fire department. Because of legal reasons, I am not allowed to use software to receive the fax (although there will be a Fritzbox which seems to be magically excluded from this limitation :) ) using a software solution. After being received the fax gets processed using OCR and parsed. A cloud solution is not an option. I know that my Fritzbox can receive a fax and send it as an email, but as far as I know, it cannot send it as an email while still forwarding it to the original fax device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Question]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems like I need a fax device which can both print the received fax and save it to some digital storage like a network drive or email (to a local mail server) at the same time. Saving to a USB drive is not enough for obvious reasons. I'm open for other solutions. If there is a different device (like a router) that allows this, let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8752" RevisionGUID="be0e65ac-d7f6-4518-a6b3-43577595a0ce" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:18:23.330" UserId="3683" Text="Fax save and print" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8752" RevisionGUID="be0e65ac-d7f6-4518-a6b3-43577595a0ce" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:18:23.330" UserId="3683" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27906" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="8fee52f9-6ea0-4c13-ab71-7ed8fa0ca24d" CreationDate="2018-01-17T15:59:46.933" UserId="7729" Comment="removed gratuitous intro" Text="I am looking for recommendations for a sound system for our new Office it has to have at least 4 zones with at least an input from each zone and be able to run 10 &quot;ceiling speakers&quot;. I want to control it with both apps, Bluetooth, and network computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be doing all the low voltage in the new office and I have never set up a sound system before so I want some recommendations. I would like a system that has an app so It can be controlled from anywhere in the office and I also want to be able to add wireless speakers if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be running cat6 drops to the Data room so if the speakers need LAN connections I can dedicate those to them or I can use speaker wires. I just need a little guidance in the right direction, If I have to create a subnetwork for the Audio Receiver that would be not a problem at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27907" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="8fee52f9-6ea0-4c13-ab71-7ed8fa0ca24d" CreationDate="2018-01-17T15:59:46.933" Comment="Proposed by 7729 approved by -1 edit id of 660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27908" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8716" RevisionGUID="30406b47-9198-4087-8c81-9b880747ceab" CreationDate="2018-01-17T15:59:46.933" UserId="60" Comment="removed gratuitous intro" Text="I am looking for recommendations for a sound system for our new office. It has to have at least 4 zones with at least an input from each zone and be able to run 10 &quot;ceiling speakers&quot;. I want to control it with apps, Bluetooth, and network computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be doing all the low voltage in the new office, and I have never set up a sound system before so I want some recommendations. I would like a system that has an app so It can be controlled from anywhere in the office and I also want to be able to add wireless speakers if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be running cat6 drops to the Data room so if the speakers need LAN connections I can dedicate those to them or I can use speaker wires. I just need a little guidance in the right direction, If I have to create a subnetwork for the Audio Receiver that would be not a problem at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8753" RevisionGUID="cf111e82-412e-44fe-899b-f0379503f2b7" CreationDate="2018-01-17T18:31:32.450" UserDisplayName="user7263" Text="I need an small device with bluetooth that has to do the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Have an accelerometer attached and read his data.&#xD;&#xA; 2. After x seconds, send the accelerometer data to the paired device over bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device has to be small and portable. I've found the following ones, but I don't know if they suit well or not: [Micro:bit BBC][1], [Lilypad Simblee][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What other alternatives I have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://microbit.org/guide/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27910" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8753" RevisionGUID="cf111e82-412e-44fe-899b-f0379503f2b7" CreationDate="2018-01-17T18:31:32.450" UserDisplayName="user7263" Text="Small device with Bluetooth low energy (BLE)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27911" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8753" RevisionGUID="cf111e82-412e-44fe-899b-f0379503f2b7" CreationDate="2018-01-17T18:31:32.450" UserDisplayName="user7263" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27912" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8751" RevisionGUID="dd30449f-b89e-4cd3-966f-76ca6d23170b" CreationDate="2018-01-18T02:26:10.487" UserId="378" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I want a camera appropriate for shooting:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 50% buildings/landscapes&#xD;&#xA;- 20% food and small objects the size of an orange&#xD;&#xA;- 20% groups of people (parties, street scenes)&#xD;&#xA;- 10% portraits&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... under these conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 60% outside during day&#xD;&#xA;- 20% outside during night (I don't expect great results at night)&#xD;&#xA;- 20% inside&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Required:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. GPS (geolocation stored in EXIF)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reliable Android app to pull a picture&#xD;&#xA; 1. Manual exposure setting, up to several seconds (in addition to automatic)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Stores pictures on SD card&#xD;&#xA; 1. The best picture definition/quality the better&#xD;&#xA; 1. Maximum $400 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Would be great:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Resistant to rain&#xD;&#xA; 2. Optical zoom to take acceptable pictures of both a castle 1 kilometer away, and an apple on a restaurant table. I don't think I would have enough motivation to carry different lenses.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Not really necessary but would be nice:***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Flash&#xD;&#xA; 3. Android app allows to remotely take a picture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8755" RevisionGUID="7b925212-ca77-405e-847e-7c0bdc98eb04" CreationDate="2018-01-18T09:42:43.180" UserId="7556" Text="# The [Raspberry Pi Zero W](https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-zero-w/#buy-now-modal)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's $10, comes with Bluetooth LE and Wi-Fi onboard, and [can be *very* easily set for use with an I2C sensor.](https://www.maxbotix.com/Setup-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-for-i2c-Sensor-151) [Under full load it draws a only 1.2W](http://raspi.tv/2017/how-much-power-does-pi-zero-w-use), but has enough horses to keep pace. Best of all, it has a massive community backing it, [including a StackExchange community!](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The biggest drawback comes in the niche I/O choices compared to a larger board–unless you're a camera or tech geek, chances are you don't have a mini HDMI port, and you'll need to provide your own micro SD card. That said, it has a bounty compared to other similar boards like the Beetle LE or BLE Nano, and you'll probably find it easier to work with as a result. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27924" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8566" RevisionGUID="dc52dc68-7bf3-4687-9b28-6b7e1e27abe9" CreationDate="2018-01-18T12:24:48.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8757" RevisionGUID="af7ffd92-7ed3-45dc-a2fb-ca5a7282280c" CreationDate="2018-01-18T13:09:04.950" UserId="7766" Text="I'm trying to set up wireless network at my home. I've been given a router Zyxel Keentic Extra for my birthday as I didn't have any. It looks like this router isn't enough to cover all my flat. It has kind of unsuitable layout for Wi-Fi including thick wall in the middle that cuts down more then a half of the signal.&#xA;I think there're two possibilities (which are basically the same): either I need to buy/make repeater for my Zyxel or get something ready like Netgear Orbi.&#xA;What hardware should I use for extending Wi-Fi network? Is there any routers with &quot;super powerful&quot; antennas, so it would be able to deliver good signal in problem spots?&#xA;Here's my flat [![layout][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Pa14.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27926" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8757" RevisionGUID="af7ffd92-7ed3-45dc-a2fb-ca5a7282280c" CreationDate="2018-01-18T13:09:04.950" UserId="7766" Text="Setting up home wireless network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27927" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8757" RevisionGUID="af7ffd92-7ed3-45dc-a2fb-ca5a7282280c" CreationDate="2018-01-18T13:09:04.950" UserId="7766" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="e0ed43c8-f6af-4c05-9663-89af0ee59957" CreationDate="2018-01-18T14:29:58.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8758" RevisionGUID="abdc8efa-779c-475f-a464-3873d4d9d4d7" CreationDate="2018-01-18T14:51:49.457" UserId="7768" Text="We have a need to split (duplicate) a signal and send the complete signal to two destinations simultaneously.  The case is that we want to record an audio stream uncompressed as part of a study.  One of the constraints on the study is that we do not modify the existing desktop (central IT).  We don't want our agents to have to wear multiple microphones... therefore the spitter idea." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8758" RevisionGUID="abdc8efa-779c-475f-a464-3873d4d9d4d7" CreationDate="2018-01-18T14:51:49.457" UserId="7768" Text="Send audio from USB to two destinations simultaneously" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8758" RevisionGUID="abdc8efa-779c-475f-a464-3873d4d9d4d7" CreationDate="2018-01-18T14:51:49.457" UserId="7768" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8759" RevisionGUID="2521a0c6-d979-47af-977a-d7cda96734f0" CreationDate="2018-01-19T00:00:09.630" UserId="7771" Text="vote&#xD;&#xA;favorite&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a 150MBps dongle that supports miracast, but I can't use it because it's too slow and the image often lags/breaks. So I am looking for a better dongle that will allow me to miracast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Believe it or not, I just can't find it. I searched where I could but no, can't find it. I would be really grateful if you could suggest me one!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27933" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8759" RevisionGUID="2521a0c6-d979-47af-977a-d7cda96734f0" CreationDate="2018-01-19T00:00:09.630" UserId="7771" Text="I want a USB-Wifi dongle that supports Miracast" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27934" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8759" RevisionGUID="2521a0c6-d979-47af-977a-d7cda96734f0" CreationDate="2018-01-19T00:00:09.630" UserId="7771" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27935" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="8cf18feb-3d59-4200-9b5a-91af68bba52c" CreationDate="2018-01-19T04:31:23.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27942" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8759" RevisionGUID="485542c0-114e-4d5a-8502-e912e96a21f4" CreationDate="2018-01-19T17:36:14.800" UserId="7771" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="vote&#xD;&#xA;favorite&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a 150MBps dongle that supports miracast, but I can't use it because it's too slow and the image often lags/breaks. So I am looking for a better dongle that will allow me to miracast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Believe it or not, I just can't find it. I searched where I could but no, can't find it. I would be really grateful if you could suggest me one!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I have now: https://www.amazon.com/Realtek-RTL8188EU-Wireless-802-11n-Network/dp/B00L28AN88&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: Preferable under 60 bucks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27943" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8759" RevisionGUID="39eeb397-31d0-4fde-87dd-332a6ac0eb48" CreationDate="2018-01-19T18:20:02.963" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 16 characters in body" Text="I currently have a 150MBps dongle that supports miracast, but I can't use it because it's too slow and the image often lags/breaks. So I am looking for a better dongle that will allow me to miracast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Believe it or not, I just can't find it. I searched where I could but no, can't find it. I would be really grateful if you could suggest me one!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I have now: https://www.amazon.com/Realtek-RTL8188EU-Wireless-802-11n-Network/dp/B00L28AN88&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: Preferable under 60 bucks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27950" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8404" RevisionGUID="14cda8dd-c2c7-452c-81b3-251522f427a7" CreationDate="2018-01-19T22:43:42.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27952" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="d9e74a9d-9af7-4187-ab05-ca3517e337ef" CreationDate="2018-01-20T01:43:49.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27954" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="52ade421-8275-4639-a871-f430f4e2af79" CreationDate="2018-01-20T11:58:30.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="8445e78e-a42a-4c3e-8c91-53ef2b6feb28" CreationDate="2018-01-21T22:05:22.313" UserId="7459" Comment="added 212 characters in body" Text="Everywhere on internet i read about [NVLink][1] is more powerful than PCI lanes connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK, right. But now, i would use this power on my future computer for deeplearning (especially Resnet/TensorFlow training), mainly with GPU scripts based (Cuda). And why not on my current computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm reflecting about to buy this new base (sorry, i don't have the money to buy a DGX-1, neither a V100):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MB: ASUS [Z10PE-D8 WS][2]&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: 2x [Xeon E5-2620 v4][3] (40 lanes)&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: 4x [GTX1080Ti][4] (or more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the PCIe is badly limited to x16/x16 with dual gpu, and x8/x8/x8/x8 with quadrial gpu... So, i'm not satisfied at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is it possible to active NVLink instead of PCIe to improve the performance ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there another solution to override/improve the number of lanes ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**At least, is there another mobo/cpu supporting x16/x16/x16/x16 with dual CPU ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bios modding or whatever, i would want to go beyond this limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Edit]** The motherboard seems to handle 2 PCIe x16 for each cpu. The i7 are 1S only, i changed to Xeon 2600 v4 series, thanks [Alpha3031][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[Edit]** Finally, there is no possibility to use nvlink for now, i took a *Supermicro Superserveur 4U 7048GR-TR* with 6 pcie v3 x16/x16/x16/x16/x8/x8 with dual Xeon 2640 v4 and 1080ti gpus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nvlink.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/Z10PED8_WS/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/92986/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2620-v4-20M-Cache-2_10-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/203/alpha3031" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27964" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="4496b412-09f7-4896-b495-7bc7389be630" CreationDate="2018-01-21T23:12:47.040" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27974" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8483" RevisionGUID="c8f725a6-37df-4bcb-b1a0-57938046cf04" CreationDate="2018-01-22T00:05:34.300" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27975" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="5fc9c2d7-834b-4441-b9f9-ed5093719911" CreationDate="2018-01-22T00:12:47.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8767" RevisionGUID="28f7e05a-b478-4c6e-82d2-567edd891c28" CreationDate="2018-01-22T00:37:06.633" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: [Whatever &quot;knockoff&quot; keyboard is cheap this week.](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=Keyboard&amp;sort=new&amp;restrict_sr=on&amp;feature=legacy_search#res:ner-page=2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the fact that your previous board was a full sized keyboard, I'm going to assume you want something similarly sized. Tenkeyless keyboards *ten*d to be slightly cheaper, so if you're fine with one of those, I'd recommend taking a look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Switches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You noted you liked the Cherry MX Blue switches on your board. Thanks to the large and growing mechanical keyboard &quot;fandom&quot;, a number of other companies have started manufacturing similarly colored, similarly feeling switches. Gateron ([rather loud](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/3sbtb3/cherry_mx_blue_switches_versus_gateron_and_kailh/)), Kailh (slightly loud and stiff), Outemu ([rather loud](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY_rFC-D5hg)), and Greetech ([slightly loud](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71135.0)) come to mind. You're not getting the quite same QC as Cherry, but you're getting a much better price. I personally spent a while with [this](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01NCWZ8QR/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1516581001&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=aukey+mechanical+keyboard) Outemu equipped board and quite liked it–even in comparison to my Cherry MX Brown equipped board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Boards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some fairly reputable manufacturers like DasKeyboard and Razer have switched to using these switches–however, their boards remain as expensive as genuine Cherry switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the most part, you'll be looking at boards from &quot;second tier&quot; manufactuers like [EagleTec](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-backlighted-KG011-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A?th=1), [E-Element](https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Mechanical-Multicolor-Keyboard-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01EMI35H0/ref=sr_1_367?tag=linus21-20&amp;s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498086924&amp;sr=1-367&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3a3766188011), [RedDragon](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?tag=linus21-20&amp;url=search-alias%3delectronics&amp;field-keywords=Redragon+K551+VARA+LED+Backlit+Mechanical+Gaming+Keyboard+(Black)), and [AUKEY](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Customizable/dp/B01IRASQA0). You'll notice that I didn't actually give a specific recommendation. That's because–for much as I love [roundups like these](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xXwQQZGE1U)–they're just not really a good comparison here. Most of these keyboards aren't actually made by the companies selling them, but are rather made by OEMs like [Easterntimes](http://portexaminer.com/trade-data/eastern-times-technology-co-ltd-eagletec-asia-ltd/jacpenw1510044/) and resold with minor/no changes. This means there's a wealth of virtually-identical keyboards with various prices. The best strategy is pretty much to look and see whatever's cheapest on sites like [/r/hardwareswap](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=Keyboard&amp;sort=new&amp;restrict_sr=on&amp;feature=legacy_search), then go from there. Right now, [this Eagletec board](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-backlighted-KG011-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A?th=1) or [this AUKEY keyboard](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Anti-ghosting/dp/B06XK7ZC6W/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1516580936&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=104+mechanical+keyboard), both for $36.99, look like good choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### But Cherry!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, Cherry is the standard for a reason. If you decide you want a Cherry-equipeed board, I'd recommend [Cooler Master MasterKeys L PBT](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LPMSMS/ref=pe_1861300_268965150_em_1p_0_im): at $61.07 (right now, MSRP $89.99, and often on similar sale), it's pretty hard to beat. I personally own the similar MasterKeys Pro L White LEDs, and quite enjoy it: it's well build with great double shot keycaps, programmable, and with pretty great support for custom cases and keycaps thanks to the standard PCB layout and included keycap puller." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27977" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="1dd77181-8e4e-484f-a5c8-8e0f3b46ce9a" CreationDate="2018-01-22T02:12:47.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27978" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="90cafd4a-b887-47ba-bfda-31469ae37a0c" CreationDate="2018-01-22T09:14:52.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27987" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="da4c36eb-d557-45d1-9bcb-bdb5af1a6636" CreationDate="2018-01-23T01:23:11.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27988" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8130" RevisionGUID="1ace7ee6-0766-4842-9ea5-374f6a14e4dd" CreationDate="2018-01-23T01:33:19.247" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="27996" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="8c2c705a-71e3-43b0-9103-9a24067c4cd5" CreationDate="2018-01-23T17:30:35.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27997" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="c8cc25e0-142b-46a0-baed-ba549db42709" CreationDate="2018-01-23T20:36:06.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="27999" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="056ad797-9c89-4eb7-a11f-fafe0f53d773" CreationDate="2018-01-24T01:39:02.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8771" RevisionGUID="139ba3cb-514e-4c4a-88e5-6b4db3f46ba8" CreationDate="2018-01-24T02:08:16.110" UserId="7794" Text="Lineage OS has been ported to the AGM A8 rugged phone which goes for around 160 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.agmmobile.com/en/news/now-AGM-A8-gets-Lineage-OS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28001" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="48a7c4ec-66d0-4070-88e1-d1b3ecdbc03f" CreationDate="2018-01-24T09:40:24.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28010" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="9abe247a-4a0d-4d64-ae30-ce0e198307c0" CreationDate="2018-01-24T20:45:10.637" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8775" RevisionGUID="79c4b693-554f-4bcb-866f-0dc55e3a0784" CreationDate="2018-01-25T13:20:14.100" UserId="7804" Text="I'm planning on getting a VR headset. I'm not sure which would be the best choice. Are there any recommendations about which I should choose? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Oculus Rift&#xD;&#xA;2. HTC Vive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read about the PIMAX 8k (kickstarter project) but it is closed. Do you have other VR Headset as a recommendation? What are the pros and cons? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you really much for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28016" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8775" RevisionGUID="79c4b693-554f-4bcb-866f-0dc55e3a0784" CreationDate="2018-01-25T13:20:14.100" UserId="7804" Text="Oculus Rift or HTC Vive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28017" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8775" RevisionGUID="79c4b693-554f-4bcb-866f-0dc55e3a0784" CreationDate="2018-01-25T13:20:14.100" UserId="7804" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8777" RevisionGUID="16cfc090-b1b9-4708-8f26-e7753a805d44" CreationDate="2018-01-25T14:10:33.827" UserId="4043" Text="I'll open by saying I am not an authority on VR tech nor do I follow the scene as a hobby. I own an HTC Vive and have used a Rift once or twice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;TL;DR: I love my Vive, I'd spend the money above the Rift to get it, but that's not the right choice for everyone. Promising tech is on the horizon. Promising options on both the lower and higher budget ends outside of the Rift and Vive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oculus Rift:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheapest by a mile (unless you also consider the newer WMR devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Same resolution as Vive (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Lighter, more ergonomic controllers&#xD;&#xA; - Many say it is more comfortable than the Vive, I'd say it is about the same. Head shape will be the main factor here so try both if you can.&#xD;&#xA; - Perfectly acceptable tracking&#xD;&#xA; - Out-of-the-box integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More space for googly eyes on the front without disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not set up for room-scale tracking out of the box (1-2 addtl tracker(s) needed @ $60 each depending on shape of your game area)&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller theoretical supported roomscale area size&#xD;&#xA; - Lower FOV than Vive (100 vs 110)&#xD;&#xA; - Closed game ecosystem; there are very easy workarounds but it is an extra step&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly lower PPI than Vive&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller accessory market (but they are there!)&#xD;&#xA; - (Obviously subjective) Owned by Facebook&#xD;&#xA; - No front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a ton of USB ports (one for headset, one for each tracking cam)&#xD;&#xA; - Shorter cable than Vive (4m vs 5m (+1 from link box))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HTC Vive:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same Resolution as Rift (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly higher PPI&#xD;&#xA; - Higher FOV than Rift (110 vs 100)&#xD;&#xA; - Front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Fewer ports on PC needed (just HDMI/DP and one USB)&#xD;&#xA; - Open game ecosystem (can play Rift games with one addtl step [ReVive])&#xD;&#xA; - Longer cable than Rift (5m (+1 from link box) vs 4m)&#xD;&#xA; - Best tracking in the industry using Lighthouses which only need to be supplied power, not connected to PC in any way&#xD;&#xA; - Richer accessory market (forehead fans, upgraded face pads like leather and velour, Deluxe Audio Strap, Vive Trackers to add more objects in VR, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - Larger supported room-scale area (v1 Lighthouses can do 20m x 20m without significant loss in tracking. v2 purported to be capable of 30m x 30m)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Twice the price of Rift (gap narrows as Rift is set up for room-scale)&#xD;&#xA; - Heavier headset and controllers (I personally like the bulkier controllers, they add a sense of presence for whatever you are holding in game)&#xD;&#xA; - $100 Deluxe Audio Strap to get comparable integrated headphones as those that come with Rift (could be seen as a positive if you have nice headphones you wanted to use anyway, there is a 3.5mm jack right on the headset you can hook into)&#xD;&#xA; - (Subjective) Less comfortable than Rift although both have a wide range of face pads to suit your needs.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be careful where googly eyes are placed to avoid disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PIMAX:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'll be honest on this one, I haven't looked terribly hard into it. I try not to get too invested in a product until I see a consumer-ready version and with Pimax they are 100% not ready for consumers. I've heard the bump in resolution (which is certainly *not* 8k, it is 4k for each eye which is half as many pixels as 8k).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Pimax videos and right now it sounds like the consensus is that the 200 FOV is incredible, the resolution is incredible, but the tracking is still far behind its contemporaries, and price is yet to be confirmed. Hopefully someone who follows this story closer can correct me here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally won't bother considering the Pimax until it has been in consumer rotation for a little while, but do some research as the tech is pretty impressive. And you can look like a bug person.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Mixed Reality (WMR):&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Another category I don't have much experience with but from what I have read this market segment is very promising. Compared to the Rift and Vive, most of these headsets are very affordable and boast a _higher_ resolution and PPI. I'm not sure how broad the game support is but I know people have played some popular Vive games without much issue at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the biggest pros for the WMR headsets is their &quot;plug-in-and-go&quot; style of inside-out tracking. This means that there are no external tracking devices that must be arranged in/around your play area. The limitations of this are that if your controllers are out of view of the tracking cameras on the headset they can still be tracked but only using the accelerometer, i.e. they must keep moving to be tracked. I've heard this causes problems in games that use &quot;utility belt&quot; style inventory systems where you otherwise would be able to interact with certain game features more naturally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8777" RevisionGUID="dc6aeafc-a8f1-48a5-8c1e-8ff482bd2dc7" CreationDate="2018-01-25T20:16:33.310" UserId="4043" Comment="added vive pro info" Text="I'll open by saying I am not an authority on VR tech nor do I follow the scene as a hobby. I own an HTC Vive and have used a Rift once or twice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;TL;DR: I love my Vive, I'd spend the money above the Rift to get it, but that's not the right choice for everyone. Promising tech is on the horizon. Promising options on both the lower and higher budget ends outside of the Rift and Vive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oculus Rift:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheapest by a mile (unless you also consider the newer WMR devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Same resolution as Vive (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Lighter, more ergonomic controllers&#xD;&#xA; - Many say it is more comfortable than the Vive, I'd say it is about the same. Head shape will be the main factor here so try both if you can.&#xD;&#xA; - Perfectly acceptable tracking&#xD;&#xA; - Out-of-the-box integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More space for googly eyes on the front without disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not set up for room-scale tracking out of the box (1-2 addtl tracker(s) needed @ $60 each depending on shape of your game area)&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller theoretical supported roomscale area size&#xD;&#xA; - Lower FOV than Vive (100 vs 110)&#xD;&#xA; - Closed game ecosystem; there are very easy workarounds but it is an extra step&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly lower PPI than Vive&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller accessory market (but they are there!)&#xD;&#xA; - (Obviously subjective) Owned by Facebook&#xD;&#xA; - No front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a ton of USB ports (one for headset, one for each tracking cam)&#xD;&#xA; - Shorter cable than Vive (4m vs 5m (+1 from link box))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HTC Vive:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same Resolution as Rift (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly higher PPI&#xD;&#xA; - Higher FOV than Rift (110 vs 100)&#xD;&#xA; - Front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Fewer ports on PC needed (just HDMI/DP and one USB)&#xD;&#xA; - Open game ecosystem (can play Rift games with one addtl step [ReVive])&#xD;&#xA; - Longer cable than Rift (5m (+1 from link box) vs 4m)&#xD;&#xA; - Best tracking in the industry using Lighthouses which only need to be supplied power, not connected to PC in any way&#xD;&#xA; - Richer accessory market (forehead fans, upgraded face pads like leather and velour, Deluxe Audio Strap, Vive Trackers to add more objects in VR, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - Larger supported room-scale area (v1 Lighthouses can do 20m x 20m without significant loss in tracking. v2 purported to be capable of 30m x 30m)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Twice the price of Rift (gap narrows as Rift is set up for room-scale)&#xD;&#xA; - Heavier headset and controllers (I personally like the bulkier controllers, they add a sense of presence for whatever you are holding in game)&#xD;&#xA; - $100 Deluxe Audio Strap to get comparable integrated headphones as those that come with Rift (could be seen as a positive if you have nice headphones you wanted to use anyway, there is a 3.5mm jack right on the headset you can hook into)&#xD;&#xA; - (Subjective) Less comfortable than Rift although both have a wide range of face pads to suit your needs.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be careful where googly eyes are placed to avoid disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Additional Vive Info:*&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;HTC recently announced their Vive Pro which introduces a number of feature additions and upgrades:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OOTB integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More ergonomic head mounting solution&#xD;&#xA; - 78% higher resolution (about 32% increased PPI)&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 wands&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 lighthouses&#xD;&#xA; - Dual front cameras (dont worry, plenty of room for googly eyes)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMD-only (upgrade your current Vive kit, rumors of a trade-in program) scheduled for Q1 2018 (next 2 months or so) and the full kit scheduled for a Q3 release. Prices not yet confirmed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PIMAX:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'll be honest on this one, I haven't looked terribly hard into it. I try not to get too invested in a product until I see a consumer-ready version and with Pimax they are 100% not ready for consumers. I've heard the bump in resolution (which is certainly *not* 8k, it is 4k for each eye which is half as many pixels as 8k).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Pimax videos and right now it sounds like the consensus is that the 200 FOV is incredible, the resolution is incredible, but the tracking is still far behind its contemporaries, and price is yet to be confirmed. Hopefully someone who follows this story closer can correct me here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally won't bother considering the Pimax until it has been in consumer rotation for a little while, but do some research as the tech is pretty impressive. And you can look like a bug person.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Mixed Reality (WMR):&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Another category I don't have much experience with but from what I have read this market segment is very promising. Compared to the Rift and Vive, most of these headsets are very affordable and boast a _higher_ resolution and PPI. I'm not sure how broad the game support is but I know people have played some popular Vive games without much issue at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the biggest pros for the WMR headsets is their &quot;plug-in-and-go&quot; style of inside-out tracking. This means that there are no external tracking devices that must be arranged in/around your play area. The limitations of this are that if your controllers are out of view of the tracking cameras on the headset they can still be tracked but only using the accelerometer, i.e. they must keep moving to be tracked. I've heard this causes problems in games that use &quot;utility belt&quot; style inventory systems where you otherwise would be able to interact with certain game features more naturally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8777" RevisionGUID="77f31b64-aeaa-425a-a302-ec646d2c36fb" CreationDate="2018-01-25T20:55:46.640" UserId="4043" Comment="finished my thought in first paragraph of pimax section" Text="I'll open by saying I am not an authority on VR tech nor do I follow the scene as a hobby. I own an HTC Vive and have used a Rift once or twice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;TL;DR: I love my Vive, I'd spend the money above the Rift to get it, but that's not the right choice for everyone. Promising tech is on the horizon. Promising options on both the lower and higher budget ends outside of the Rift and Vive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oculus Rift:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheapest by a mile (unless you also consider the newer WMR devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Same resolution as Vive (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Lighter, more ergonomic controllers&#xD;&#xA; - Many say it is more comfortable than the Vive, I'd say it is about the same. Head shape will be the main factor here so try both if you can.&#xD;&#xA; - Perfectly acceptable tracking&#xD;&#xA; - Out-of-the-box integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More space for googly eyes on the front without disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not set up for room-scale tracking out of the box (1-2 addtl tracker(s) needed @ $60 each depending on shape of your game area)&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller theoretical supported roomscale area size&#xD;&#xA; - Lower FOV than Vive (100 vs 110)&#xD;&#xA; - Closed game ecosystem; there are very easy workarounds but it is an extra step&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly lower PPI than Vive&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller accessory market (but they are there!)&#xD;&#xA; - (Obviously subjective) Owned by Facebook&#xD;&#xA; - No front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a ton of USB ports (one for headset, one for each tracking cam)&#xD;&#xA; - Shorter cable than Vive (4m vs 5m (+1 from link box))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HTC Vive:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same Resolution as Rift (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly higher PPI&#xD;&#xA; - Higher FOV than Rift (110 vs 100)&#xD;&#xA; - Front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Fewer ports on PC needed (just HDMI/DP and one USB)&#xD;&#xA; - Open game ecosystem (can play Rift games with one addtl step [ReVive])&#xD;&#xA; - Longer cable than Rift (5m (+1 from link box) vs 4m)&#xD;&#xA; - Best tracking in the industry using Lighthouses which only need to be supplied power, not connected to PC in any way&#xD;&#xA; - Richer accessory market (forehead fans, upgraded face pads like leather and velour, Deluxe Audio Strap, Vive Trackers to add more objects in VR, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - Larger supported room-scale area (v1 Lighthouses can do 20m x 20m without significant loss in tracking. v2 purported to be capable of 30m x 30m)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Twice the price of Rift (gap narrows as Rift is set up for room-scale)&#xD;&#xA; - Heavier headset and controllers (I personally like the bulkier controllers, they add a sense of presence for whatever you are holding in game)&#xD;&#xA; - $100 Deluxe Audio Strap to get comparable integrated headphones as those that come with Rift (could be seen as a positive if you have nice headphones you wanted to use anyway, there is a 3.5mm jack right on the headset you can hook into)&#xD;&#xA; - (Subjective) Less comfortable than Rift although both have a wide range of face pads to suit your needs.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be careful where googly eyes are placed to avoid disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Additional Vive Info:*&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;HTC recently announced their Vive Pro which introduces a number of feature additions and upgrades:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OOTB integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More ergonomic head mounting solution&#xD;&#xA; - 78% higher resolution (about 32% increased PPI)&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 wands&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 lighthouses&#xD;&#xA; - Dual front cameras (dont worry, plenty of room for googly eyes)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMD-only (upgrade your current Vive kit, rumors of a trade-in program) scheduled for Q1 2018 (next 2 months or so) and the full kit scheduled for a Q3 release. Prices not yet confirmed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PIMAX:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'll be honest on this one, I haven't looked terribly hard into it. I try not to get too invested in a product until I see a consumer-ready version and with Pimax they are 100% not ready for consumers. I've heard the bump in resolution (which is certainly *not* 8k, it is 4k for each eye which is half as many pixels as 8k) is something to behold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Pimax videos and right now it sounds like the consensus is that the 200 FOV is incredible, the resolution is incredible, but the tracking is still far behind its contemporaries, and price is yet to be confirmed. Hopefully someone who follows this story closer can correct me here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally won't bother considering the Pimax until it has been in consumer rotation for a little while, but do some research as the tech is pretty impressive. And you can look like a bug person.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Mixed Reality (WMR):&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Another category I don't have much experience with but from what I have read this market segment is very promising. Compared to the Rift and Vive, most of these headsets are very affordable and boast a _higher_ resolution and PPI. I'm not sure how broad the game support is but I know people have played some popular Vive games without much issue at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the biggest pros for the WMR headsets is their &quot;plug-in-and-go&quot; style of inside-out tracking. This means that there are no external tracking devices that must be arranged in/around your play area. The limitations of this are that if your controllers are out of view of the tracking cameras on the headset they can still be tracked but only using the accelerometer, i.e. they must keep moving to be tracked. I've heard this causes problems in games that use &quot;utility belt&quot; style inventory systems where you otherwise would be able to interact with certain game features more naturally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28028" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="9030dba0-3e11-4003-86bf-21751163f529" CreationDate="2018-01-26T14:16:41.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8779" RevisionGUID="dccef8ce-dc88-4162-943d-725ab08d2b1b" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:11:56.603" UserId="7807" Text="I searching for a laptop with AMD processor AMD Graphic card, No windows, No windows key on left, SSD (or hybrid SSD+HDD) I pay with Bitcoin up to 3000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation? I find not a single laptop without the Windows Key or Windows preinstalled. I truly hate windows and this key on the left molesting me very much! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disgusting that Windows and Intel is everywhere! I need a laptop with only AMD in it and no bulls*t windows key on left...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fcking Alienware also ships with Windows...." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28031" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8779" RevisionGUID="dccef8ce-dc88-4162-943d-725ab08d2b1b" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:11:56.603" UserId="7807" Text="How to buy a notebook without windows preinstalled, no windows key on keyboard, AMD processor NOT Intel, with AMD graphic card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28032" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8779" RevisionGUID="dccef8ce-dc88-4162-943d-725ab08d2b1b" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:11:56.603" UserId="7807" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28041" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8779" RevisionGUID="e6c56c2d-8f77-491d-afe7-54ea72ab7ac6" CreationDate="2018-01-27T18:41:08.430" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 249 characters in body" Text="I searching for a laptop with AMD processor AMD Graphic card, No windows, No windows key on left, SSD (or hybrid SSD+HDD) I pay with Bitcoin up to 3000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation? I find not a single laptop without the Windows Key or Windows preinstalled." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28049" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="cef8a153-d08e-42af-8ebc-6d58cc02542c" CreationDate="2018-01-28T18:34:06.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28050" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="8e8dc35e-0fee-4395-b749-10fe806bd737" CreationDate="2018-01-28T21:34:10.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8785" RevisionGUID="903b7e37-8a05-4527-8909-38a7dc4bb024" CreationDate="2018-01-29T11:29:21.097" UserId="269" Text="I am planning to buy a monitor, I wish to connect it with my laptop ( as a second screen). I searched the internet and couldn't find any decent monitor which fulfills my requirements. I will be mounting it on a stand or on a wall so it should be less heavy and small. Below are my requirements, any suggestions would be highly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Size       = 18 - 20 inch&#xD;&#xA;    Resolution = 1920*1080 (Full HD)&#xD;&#xA;    Port       = HDMI (must)&#xD;&#xA;    Price      = around 150$&#xD;&#xA;    Weight     = light weight&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker    = Not an issue" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28057" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8785" RevisionGUID="903b7e37-8a05-4527-8909-38a7dc4bb024" CreationDate="2018-01-29T11:29:21.097" UserId="269" Text="Best Computer Monitor under 150$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28058" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8785" RevisionGUID="903b7e37-8a05-4527-8909-38a7dc4bb024" CreationDate="2018-01-29T11:29:21.097" UserId="269" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28059" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="b8999e04-671a-4758-9e85-09262a0e294b" CreationDate="2018-01-29T11:41:12.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28060" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="3e5a796a-a211-4180-a3e1-d58251f633f7" CreationDate="2018-01-29T12:41:15.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="f9b09a44-eb30-4da3-95e3-e3b8a348605f" CreationDate="2018-01-29T15:35:29.007" UserId="5758" Text="I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor should have the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD&#xD;&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Height adjustable&#xD;&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden&#xD;&#xA; - USB Hub with at least two ports&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop (Dell XPS 13 2014 with Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version) of course&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28063" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="f9b09a44-eb30-4da3-95e3-e3b8a348605f" CreationDate="2018-01-29T15:35:29.007" UserId="5758" Text="White QHD monitor with USB hub being adjustable in height" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28064" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="f9b09a44-eb30-4da3-95e3-e3b8a348605f" CreationDate="2018-01-29T15:35:29.007" UserId="5758" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28065" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="2d42fb0e-1033-4a50-8a66-4533b4348267" CreationDate="2018-01-29T15:41:46.470" UserId="5758" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor should have the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD&#xD;&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Height adjustable&#xD;&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden (&quot;not black&quot; as a minimum) &#xD;&#xA; - (Active) USB hub with at least two ports (for mouse and keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop (specs beneath) of course&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;System specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 2014&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD 4400&#xD;&#xA; - Mini Displayport&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28070" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="80c3f66e-5f99-42d8-ac98-53e94435aca5" CreationDate="2018-01-29T20:46:25.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28074" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="d88ad8dc-8a9d-483b-a01c-2261adbcec97" CreationDate="2018-01-29T22:47:22.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28076" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="a75bff89-b57e-48cd-b6d0-30bf07c753ea" CreationDate="2018-01-30T06:44:11.060" UserId="5758" Comment="added 1666 characters in body; edited title" Text="#Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. This monitor gets used in my home-office which is really sensible for style/design of the contained furniture/things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Longer Version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently rebuilding my office at home. I need to mention that I'm really into the style and design of my workplace. I can't work where you just have black monitors, black whatever-mouse and a black whatever-keyboard. I need my desk to feature a well-thought-out design concept with defined colors, a desk lamp, little plants etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The desk-design is currently defined with the primary colors white and pastel mint-green. Secondary &quot;color&quot; is &quot;wooden&quot;. Accent color is mainly pastel pink. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few items featured on my workplace will give you a feeling of what is going on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![desk lamp][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![desk mat][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![mouse][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have all the things in place but one thing which is missing is a monitor. My intention is to place it on my desk (obviously) and plug in my keyboard and mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to work with it I plug the video-cable in my mini-display-port and connect the USB hub to one of my ports. Voila I'm able to use my keyboard, mouse and monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD&#xD;&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Height adjustable&#xD;&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden (&quot;not black&quot; as a minimum) &#xD;&#xA; - (Active) USB hub with at least two ports (for mouse and keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop (specs beneath) of course&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 2014&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD 4400&#xD;&#xA; - Mini Displayport&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not really an issue. Everything cheaper than 800 $ should be fine as long as it looks nice and features needed functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Additional Notes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A VESA mount would be fine. No issues with that. It just have too look neat. Not like a sci-fi-robot-arm :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Painting, framing, foiling or any other DIY action is absolutely fine as long as the outcome looks professional. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5gom.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf6Mm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yM6cJm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28077" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="a75bff89-b57e-48cd-b6d0-30bf07c753ea" CreationDate="2018-01-30T06:44:11.060" UserId="5758" Comment="added 1666 characters in body; edited title" Text="Non-black QHD monitor with USB hub being adjustable in height" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28078" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8455" RevisionGUID="f65fb695-5a53-4d41-94ae-484513f6bc7d" CreationDate="2018-01-30T06:51:05.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="08bf3a26-6bee-49e3-8297-2e8dffbecbfc" CreationDate="2018-01-30T07:10:24.423" UserId="5758" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="#Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. This monitor gets used in my home-office which is really sensible for style/design of the contained furniture/things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Longer Version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently rebuilding my office at home. I need to mention that I'm really into the style and design of my workplace. I can't work where you just have black monitors, black whatever-mouse and a black whatever-keyboard. I need my desk to feature a well-thought-out design concept with defined colors, a desk lamp, little plants etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The desk-design is currently defined with the primary colors white and pastel mint-green. Secondary &quot;color&quot; is &quot;wooden&quot;. Accent color is mainly pastel pink. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few items featured on my workplace will give you a feeling of what is going on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![desk lamp][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![desk mat][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![mouse][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have all the things in place but one thing which is missing is a monitor. My intention is to place it on my desk (obviously) and plug in my keyboard and mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to work with it I plug the video-cable in my mini-display-port and connect the USB hub to one of my ports. Voila I'm able to use my keyboard, mouse and monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD&#xD;&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Height adjustable (VESA mount is an option)&#xD;&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden (&quot;not black&quot; as a minimum) &#xD;&#xA; - (Active) USB hub with at least two ports (for mouse and keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop (specs beneath) of course&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 2014&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD 4400&#xD;&#xA; - Mini Displayport&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not really an issue. Everything cheaper than 800 $ should be fine as long as it looks nice and features needed functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Additional Notes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A VESA mount would be fine. No issues with that. It just have too look neat. Not like a sci-fi-robot-arm :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Painting, framing, foiling or any other DIY action is absolutely fine as long as the outcome looks professional. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5gom.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf6Mm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yM6cJm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="c92c261f-998d-4303-8750-f73c18477cf1" CreationDate="2018-01-30T09:04:48.930" UserId="5758" Comment="edited body" Text="#Scenario&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. This monitor gets used in my home-office which is really sensible for style/design of the contained furniture/things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Longer Version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently rebuilding my office at home. I need to mention that I'm really into the style and design of my workplace. I can't work where you just have black monitors, black whatever-mouse and a black whatever-keyboard. I need my desk to feature a well-thought-out design concept with defined colors, a desk lamp, little plants etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The desk-design is currently defined with the primary colors white and pastel mint-green. Secondary &quot;color&quot; is &quot;wooden&quot;. Accent color is mainly pastel pink. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few items featured on my workplace will give you a feeling of what is going on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![desk lamp][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![desk mat][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![mouse][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have all the things in place but one thing which is missing is a monitor. My intention is to place it on my desk (obviously) and plug in my keyboard and mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to work with it I plug the video-cable in my mini-display-port and connect the USB hub to one of my ports. Voila I'm able to use my keyboard, mouse and monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - QHD&#xD;&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Height adjustable (VESA mount is an option)&#xD;&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden (&quot;not black&quot; as a minimum) &#xD;&#xA; - (Active) USB hub with at least two ports (for mouse and keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop of course (specs beneath)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 2014&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD 4400&#xD;&#xA; - Mini Displayport&#xD;&#xA; - Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not really an issue. Everything cheaper than 800 $ should be fine as long as it looks nice and features needed functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Additional Notes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A VESA mount would be fine. No issues with that. It just have too look neat. Not like a sci-fi-robot-arm :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Painting, framing, foiling or any other DIY action is absolutely legit as long as the outcome looks professional. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5gom.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf6Mm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yM6cJm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28089" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="fafc8cd4-243d-4c79-a86f-a21eede220f5" CreationDate="2018-01-30T18:56:46.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28091" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="3661a161-da15-4e72-a6c8-f73a455c9561" CreationDate="2018-01-30T20:56:53.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28092" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="7b2ca2dc-f53b-4ebb-88de-ad98954af4e4" CreationDate="2018-01-30T22:59:44.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28093" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8789" RevisionGUID="36e158be-764a-4f66-a2e6-be68b3f1d89c" CreationDate="2018-01-31T00:39:37.553" UserId="2010" Text="I want to have a nice night-light-waves projector at home. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Not a simple and primitive toy for children as&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a super-level beautiful dynamic waves system, as in the movie [&quot;Blade Runner 2049&quot;][2]:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vywsH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1856101/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJbAh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28094" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8789" RevisionGUID="36e158be-764a-4f66-a2e6-be68b3f1d89c" CreationDate="2018-01-31T00:39:37.553" UserId="2010" Text="Incredible Night Wave Light System" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28095" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8789" RevisionGUID="36e158be-764a-4f66-a2e6-be68b3f1d89c" CreationDate="2018-01-31T00:39:37.553" UserId="2010" Text="&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28097" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8790" RevisionGUID="3e888640-fa82-4c55-8a07-35e1adb10538" CreationDate="2018-01-31T03:01:58.370" UserId="20" Text="I can find 3D displays on Amazon, but the ones still sold all appear to be active ones. As active 3D always ghosted for me, passive 3D worked perfectly (I'm even more impressed if the Street Fighter IV demo I saw in a store was converted from 2D.), and again I just bought a new non-3D TV due to lack of &lt;=48&quot; supply, I'd like to replace my 1080p 22&quot; desktop monitor. 24&quot; is fine, but if it would cost more than a 1080p phone with a gyroscope, I'd rather buy the latter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28098" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8790" RevisionGUID="3e888640-fa82-4c55-8a07-35e1adb10538" CreationDate="2018-01-31T03:01:58.370" UserId="20" Text="Passive 3D display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28099" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8790" RevisionGUID="3e888640-fa82-4c55-8a07-35e1adb10538" CreationDate="2018-01-31T03:01:58.370" UserId="20" Text="&lt;3d-display&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28106" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="9b06524d-70bc-46e4-8144-717a75be2e25" CreationDate="2018-01-31T20:06:25.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28108" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="582a44af-7c8f-4e2a-9536-e962fafc1dd6" CreationDate="2018-01-31T21:06:26.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28109" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="31ee870b-cdfc-4c15-9c22-85601fcfb459" CreationDate="2018-02-01T00:07:00.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8790" RevisionGUID="d6aaceee-e8ca-48b6-a1d1-4c4111db6852" CreationDate="2018-02-01T00:44:43.387" UserId="20" Comment="Mistook TV resolution in Display Properties." Text="I can find 3D displays on Amazon, but the ones still sold all appear to be active ones. As active 3D always ghosted for me, passive 3D worked perfectly (I'm even more impressed if the Street Fighter IV demo I saw in a store was converted from 2D.), and again I just bought a new non-3D TV due to lack of &lt;=48&quot; supply, I'd like to replace my 1680x1050p 22&quot; desktop monitor. 24&quot; is fine, but if it would cost more than a 1080p phone with a gyroscope, I'd rather buy the latter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8793" RevisionGUID="4dddb0cd-c410-4604-b71d-24e528a287c2" CreationDate="2018-02-01T01:40:24.363" UserId="20" Text="[LG still sells a 49&quot; model TV, the LG 49UH850V, which is UHD for 949 euro](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/lg/5331-49uh850v.html), though it's tempting to get the 55&quot; model for only 45 euro more. There is also the [Samsung UE50KU6020WXXN 50&quot; UHD for 579 euro,](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/samsung/5651-ue50ku6020wxxn.html) which beats the price of a VR-compatible smartphone with that resolution and still offers 1080p in 25&quot;. I could then buy a new computer desk, or use my wireless keyboard at my dining tables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8793" RevisionGUID="83486635-3c7c-44b4-b49b-92299443898d" CreationDate="2018-02-01T01:50:57.970" UserId="20" Comment="Looks like UHD phones have been around for years, but are they VR-compatible?" Text="[LG still sells a 49&quot; model TV, the LG 49UH850V, which is UHD for 949 euro](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/lg/5331-49uh850v.html), though it's tempting to get the 55&quot; model for only 45 euro more. There is also the [Samsung UE50KU6020WXXN 50&quot; UHD for 579 euro,](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/samsung/5651-ue50ku6020wxxn.html) which [does not?](https://www.androidplanet.nl/sony/xperia-z5-premium/) beat the price of a VR-compatible smartphone with that resolution, but still offers 1080p in 25&quot;. I could then buy a new computer desk, or use my wireless keyboard at my dining tables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8793" RevisionGUID="39a42480-2388-4a61-88c7-71f1175a3fe4" CreationDate="2018-02-01T01:59:13.323" UserId="20" Comment="Z5 Premium has gyro and compass required for VR." Text="[LG still sells a 49&quot; model TV, the LG 49UH850V, which is UHD for 949 euro](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/lg/5331-49uh850v.html), though it's tempting to get the 55&quot; model for only 45 euro more. There is also the [Samsung UE50KU6020WXXN 50&quot; UHD for 579 euro,](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/samsung/5651-ue50ku6020wxxn.html) which [does not](https://www.androidplanet.nl/sony/xperia-z5-premium/) beat the price of a VR-compatible smartphone with that resolution, but still offers 1080p in 25&quot;. I could then buy a new computer desk, or use my wireless keyboard at my dining tables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8793" RevisionGUID="8d074399-ad5d-4f83-acb7-653b41aed4b9" CreationDate="2018-02-01T02:23:36.057" UserId="20" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="[LG still sells a 49&quot; model TV, the LG 49UH850V, which is UHD for 949 euro](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/lg/5331-49uh850v.html), though it's tempting to get the 55&quot; model for only 45 euro more. There is also the [Samsung UE50KU6020WXXN 50&quot; UHD for 579 euro,](https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/samsung/5651-ue50ku6020wxxn.html) which [does not](https://www.androidplanet.nl/sony/xperia-z5-premium/) beat the price of a [VR-compatible smartphone](https://www.maxboxvr.com/phones-work-compatible-google-cardboard) with that resolution, but still offers 1080p in 25&quot;. I could then buy a new computer desk, or use my wireless keyboard at my dining tables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28121" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="2874638b-91c1-4c24-8f02-c73b3dd7bb87" CreationDate="2018-02-01T08:10:28.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28123" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="2584aaf2-9735-488f-8c94-3b5eecce8bde" CreationDate="2018-02-01T10:10:33.613" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="8785bb63-87c1-4480-804e-0042bcc35d71" CreationDate="2018-02-01T19:36:59.087" UserId="7835" Text="When I search for USB extenders over cat5/cat5e/cat6, every single one that I find has a male USB-to-network adapter and a female USB-to-network adapter.   Yet, every use-case I can think of where you would want a USB cable extended over cat5/5e/6 would ultimately want male USB connectors on both ends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sure, I can buy a male/female extender, which would have the 3 obvious components (female USB-to-network + network cable + male USB-to-network), and then add a fourth component which is a typical male-to-male cable.   But that's adding another point of failure and potentially bothersome signal degradation into the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why is male/female USB the only extender package I can find, and why is that the default?   I feel like I am missing something super obvious.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe the problem is I am searching for &quot;extender&quot; and I should be searching for some other term?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="8785bb63-87c1-4480-804e-0042bcc35d71" CreationDate="2018-02-01T19:36:59.087" UserId="7835" Text="USB extender using Cat5/5e/6 with Male USB on both ends" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="8785bb63-87c1-4480-804e-0042bcc35d71" CreationDate="2018-02-01T19:36:59.087" UserId="7835" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8799" RevisionGUID="aa0981ca-5847-4fe7-a3b5-e35a64f22a4a" CreationDate="2018-02-01T22:27:33.513" UserId="7837" Text="I have a 14&quot; 1080p laptop, which is very crisp. When I connect it to my 21&quot; 1080p monitor, the external monitor looks blurry and ugly. What external monitor (i.e. what specs, but specific examples are welcome too) should I buy, so that I can connect it to my laptop and have both be good looking and as similar as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: ~300€, but open to recommendations with good reason" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28137" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8799" RevisionGUID="aa0981ca-5847-4fe7-a3b5-e35a64f22a4a" CreationDate="2018-02-01T22:27:33.513" UserId="7837" Text="Monitor for high-DPI laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28138" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8799" RevisionGUID="aa0981ca-5847-4fe7-a3b5-e35a64f22a4a" CreationDate="2018-02-01T22:27:33.513" UserId="7837" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8799" RevisionGUID="45379edb-e07b-407b-b898-6b04095f65ab" CreationDate="2018-02-01T23:21:48.553" UserId="7837" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="I have a 14&quot; 1080p laptop, which is very crisp. When I connect it to my 21&quot; 1080p monitor, the external monitor looks blurry and ugly. What external monitor (i.e. what specs, but specific examples are welcome too) should I buy, so that I can connect it to my laptop and have both be good looking and as similar as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, how do I know if the laptop will be able to output to the monitor, if it's high DPI? (I have an Intel HD 620, fyi)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: ~300€, but open to recommendations with good reason" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8800" RevisionGUID="d3a273f2-7ec0-447f-b770-2e49b7ff097b" CreationDate="2018-02-02T01:50:46.620" UserId="819" Text="It's a toss up between a [Radeon RX-460 and a Geforce GTX-750](http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-RX-460-vs-GeForce-GTX-750) for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![RX-460 vs GTX-750][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few specific UPCs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Radeon RX-460: 778656073524&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX-750: 843368027933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Build Your Own Single-Slot GeForce GTX 750 Ti - Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/single-slot-geforce-gtx-750-ti,3761.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/otCOu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28141" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8800" RevisionGUID="a2730f92-a68f-49df-89a7-d0281a7d3b08" CreationDate="2018-02-02T02:04:19.643" UserId="819" Comment="Added content" Text="It's a toss up between a [Radeon RX-460 and a Geforce GTX-750](http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-RX-460-vs-GeForce-GTX-750) for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![RX-460 vs GTX-750][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few specific UPCs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Radeon RX-460: 778656073524&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX-750: 843368027933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX-750 has both DVI and DisplayPort, and there are [single-slot](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Graphics-Cards-N750TI-2GD5TLP/dp/B00SOXMPJY) models available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Build Your Own Single-Slot GeForce GTX 750 Ti - Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/single-slot-geforce-gtx-750-ti,3761.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/otCOu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8800" RevisionGUID="273d11d6-8437-43b4-864b-7961b89e0254" CreationDate="2018-02-02T02:13:50.020" UserId="819" Comment="Added content" Text="It's a toss up between a [Radeon RX-460 and a Geforce GTX-750](http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-RX-460-vs-GeForce-GTX-750) for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![RX-460 vs GTX-750][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few specific UPCs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Radeon RX-460: 778656073524&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX-750: 843368027933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The RX-460 has DVI and DisplayPort, and there are [single-slot](https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-DisplayPort-PCI-Express-RX-460P4SFG5/dp/B01MU015Q1?th=1) models available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX-750 has both DVI and DisplayPort, and there are [single-slot](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Graphics-Cards-N750TI-2GD5TLP/dp/B00SOXMPJY) models available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Build Your Own Single-Slot GeForce GTX 750 Ti - Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/single-slot-geforce-gtx-750-ti,3761.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/otCOu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28147" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8802" RevisionGUID="e30c5f8f-64d8-4996-898a-74a04af35945" CreationDate="2018-02-02T04:02:17.567" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: The [Dell U2718Q](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VV7v6h/dell-u2718q-270-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-u2718q)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### DIY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As big as a fan as I am of DIYing and [painting one of your own](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2lZZlPfrpQ) (maybe with plastidip so it's removable?), on a monitor of this caliber, there's simply too much to risk: masking is simply too difficult and easy to screw up, and disassembly voids the warranty ([legality of that aside](https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/gv5ddm/warranty-void-if-removed-stickers-are-illegal).)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, we're left dealing with what exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Basic features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this kind of price point, IPS is a must, and 27&quot; (verus 23.8&quot;, which is really the only other size) is (IMO) a pretty clear choice. [Right off the bat, that narrows our selection of monitors down pretty far](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#W=2200,2700&amp;r=384002160&amp;p=1&amp;sort=price&amp;X=0,69469), to roughly 20 or so. From there, it's unfortunately about trade offs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since your laptop lacks support for FreeSync or Gsync (and gaming doesn't seem to be a priority anyways), I'm going to prioritize color reproduction in the panel over other features, like refresh rate, frame syncing, input lag, profiles, or inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Physical appearance and stand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, it's the most glaring thing about my choice and probably the hardest part about finding a monitor. Yes, the U2718Q is dark colored. I chose it anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the number of non-black monitors that fit the above requirements is... 2: the [Acer S277HK](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gf8H99/acer-monitor-umhs7aa001) and the [Asus MX27UC](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bjM323/asus-mx27uc-270-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-mx27uc). And beautiful though they are, neither feature a high adjustable stand nor support for VESA mounting. Pretty comes at a cost, and not just in the mounting department: while they're not particularly out of the norm, they just don't have as nice panels as the other monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves the U2718Q and two LG brothers (they're pretty much the same monitor): the [LG 27MU88](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fsXnTW/lg-27mu88-w-270-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-27mu88-w) and [27UD88](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4Kp323/lg-monitor-27ud88w).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And man, is it close.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Both have height adjustable stands with support for VESA mounts.&#xD;&#xA;- They've both got extremely thin bezels (though the Dell has a noticeably smaller bottom bezel), though the LG has a more silvery stand.&#xD;&#xA;- They both cover roughly 97% of sRGB, with the Dell supporting software HDR.&#xD;&#xA;- The LG monitor features USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- The LG monitor features FreeSync.&#xD;&#xA;- The LG monitor has better brightness.&#xD;&#xA;- The Dell monitor is about $100 cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quite frankly, either of these monitors would be valid choices. That said, I'm favoring the Dell because of the significantly lower price, as I don't think the brightness is too big an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JCiYf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7AiRs.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28148" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="7284f480-9f52-4cdf-b413-c5c36e8f16e8" CreationDate="2018-02-02T05:17:24.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8800" RevisionGUID="5a2b16d0-361d-41dc-a5d8-4070bfeaa950" CreationDate="2018-02-02T08:22:23.427" UserId="819" Comment="Added reference" Text="It's a toss up between a [Radeon RX-460 and a Geforce GTX-750](http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-RX-460-vs-GeForce-GTX-750) for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![RX-460 vs GTX-750][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few specific UPCs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Radeon RX-460: 778656073524&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Geforce GTX-750: 843368027933&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The RX-460 has DVI and DisplayPort, and there are [single-slot](https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-DisplayPort-PCI-Express-RX-460P4SFG5/dp/B01MU015Q1?th=1) models available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The GTX-750 has both DVI and DisplayPort, and there are [single-slot](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Graphics-Cards-N750TI-2GD5TLP/dp/B00SOXMPJY) models available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Build Your Own Single-Slot GeForce GTX 750 Ti - Tom's Hardware](http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/single-slot-geforce-gtx-750-ti,3761.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Comparison table: GTX-750 vs RX-460](https://us.hardware.info/comparisontable/3337585/geen_username/graphics-cards-comparison-table-gtx-750-vs-rx-460)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/otCOu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8804" RevisionGUID="e134d9fd-3b5e-4f5a-ada9-a7357dd9f616" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:43:12.583" UserId="7836" Text="I have robot. The brain is an arduino mega with this&#xD;&#xA;[shield][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pictures are below.&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am at the pont where I want to replace the arduino with an esp32. Which esp32 board do you recommend?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Basic needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;drive 4 dc motor independetly&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;drive one servo motor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from 5 (7 in the future) tcrt5000 ir sensor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from 4 optogate (for the encoders)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from the ultrasonic sensor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;driven by and capabel of charging 2 or 4 lion battery 18650&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;and also the smartness of the esp32 wifi bt touch sensor etc...&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![model][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![bodymodel][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;[![arduino with the shield][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;[![top][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;[![front left][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;[![front right][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.elektrobot.hu/termek.php?filename=Arduino_Shield_H-Bridge_L293D_dual.html&amp;i=1932&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fe8p.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/60jBR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTdFs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EiTL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZTE7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ug0H.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8804" RevisionGUID="e134d9fd-3b5e-4f5a-ada9-a7357dd9f616" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:43:12.583" UserId="7836" Text="Which ESP32 board should I use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8804" RevisionGUID="e134d9fd-3b5e-4f5a-ada9-a7357dd9f616" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:43:12.583" UserId="7836" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28161" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="4787ef9b-399b-450d-8e10-0f5d323c3fa2" CreationDate="2018-02-02T16:36:44.400" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8804" RevisionGUID="7855cc79-d252-4b35-ba2a-6c3588d5799b" CreationDate="2018-02-02T17:28:39.880" UserId="60" Comment="Made the images small while showing the full size image on click" Text="I have robot. The brain is an arduino mega with this&#xD;&#xA;[shield][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pictures are below.&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am at the pont where I want to replace the arduino with an esp32. Which esp32 board do you recommend?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Basic needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;drive 4 dc motor independetly&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;drive one servo motor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from 5 (7 in the future) tcrt5000 ir sensor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from 4 optogate (for the encoders)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;accept signal from the ultrasonic sensor&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;driven by and capabel of charging 2 or 4 lion battery 18650&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;and also the smartness of the esp32 wifi bt touch sensor etc...&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![model][2]][21]&#xD;&#xA;[![bodymodel][3]][31]&#xD;&#xA;[![arduino with the shield][4]][41]&#xD;&#xA;[![top][5]][51]&#xD;&#xA;[![front left][6]][61]&#xD;&#xA;[![front right][7]][71]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.elektrobot.hu/termek.php?filename=Arduino_Shield_H-Bridge_L293D_dual.html&amp;i=1932&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fe8pm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [21]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fe8p.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/60jBRm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [31]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/60jBR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTdFsm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [41]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTdFs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EiTLm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [51]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EiTL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZTE7m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [61]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZTE7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ug0Hm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [71]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ug0H.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="120639f7-dab8-40ce-852e-e70b05a6c767" CreationDate="2018-02-02T17:40:02.557" UserId="7835" Comment="added 595 characters in body" Text="When I search for USB extenders over cat5/cat5e/cat6, every single one that I find has a male USB-to-network adapter and a female USB-to-network adapter.   Yet, every use-case I can think of where you would want a USB cable extended over cat5/5e/6 would ultimately want male USB connectors on both ends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sure, I can buy a male/female extender, which would have the 3 obvious components (female USB-to-network + network cable + male USB-to-network), and then add a fourth component which is a typical male-to-male cable.   But that's adding another point of failure and potentially bothersome signal degradation into the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why is male/female USB the only extender package I can find, and why is that the default?   I feel like I am missing something super obvious.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe the problem is I am searching for &quot;extender&quot; and I should be searching for some other term?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:  The use case is an office with a 40 foot distance between an older USB 2.0-only printer and a desktop.  Running between those is an unused Cat 5e cable  (I think it's 5e, I haven't verified yet).   They simply want to connect the printer to the computer so the obvious answer is to just terminate each end of the available Cat5e cable with USB extenders.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really just curious why USB extenders aren't male-to-male by default -- I really don't understand where in a normal environment you would want one of them terminated as female, because that would always require another cable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28167" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="6b55ea54-7e65-40e9-83b4-a6476728b2a7" CreationDate="2018-02-02T19:24:00.060" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8806" RevisionGUID="b5a4e10a-3d97-4fc2-bbe3-70162e3cd00e" CreationDate="2018-02-02T21:41:01.440" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: The LG 24UD58-B&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, let's figure out what resolution we need to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since pretty everything on the market right now falls into either 1080p/1440p/2160p, we can ignore pretty much all other resolutions (at least for considering what we'll need in terms of resolution.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your 14&quot; 1080p laptop gets you of 157.35 PPI. Targeting a standard 23.8&quot; 16:9 monitor, 1440p gets 123.41 PPI and 2160p gets 185.12 PPI. That in mind, you're sort of in a weird middle ground relative to your laptop. I opted to go for a 2160p monitor, but if you're fine with it, a 1440p monitor would be perfectly valid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That alone gets us down to two monitors: the [LG 24UD58-B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HKL7YJ/lg-24ud58-b-238-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-24ud58-b) and the [Dell P2415Q](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4TWrxr/dell-monitor-p2415q). The price difference is pretty negligible, so it's down to picking features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;([LG review](https://www.144hzmonitors.com/reviews/lg-27ud58-b-review/), [Dell review](https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/dell-p2415q/))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Both are IPS panels (the Dell actually uses the same LG panel)&#xD;&#xA;- The Dell is slightly brighter&#xD;&#xA;- The LG offers FreeSync&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware you don't have an AMD GPU, but given the rather negligible difference otherwise, I'm strongly inclined to recommend the LG monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZUEF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28169" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7748" RevisionGUID="69b77bc4-1a8a-4807-bb84-6349fe457ad2" CreationDate="2018-02-02T23:35:19.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28170" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="e9db7595-2649-46d5-9a77-39216853b62a" CreationDate="2018-02-03T00:35:19.797" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28174" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8668" RevisionGUID="7a334712-aaef-4746-a734-2fa03830b175" CreationDate="2018-02-03T03:35:25.610" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28175" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="8da50d7b-115d-4c77-9752-50ed800c0d03" CreationDate="2018-02-03T07:35:25.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28179" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="ddf6350e-8a29-4b6e-bc29-9f353fb986da" CreationDate="2018-02-03T17:37:55.677" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28181" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="1f1c043c-7239-4d5a-af8e-95b144828741" CreationDate="2018-02-04T08:43:41.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8809" RevisionGUID="80eb4809-0ded-49d7-9229-c0bd01bc1daa" CreationDate="2018-02-04T14:52:43.697" UserId="7849" Text="  What I want to ask is does this computer can get new graphic card ? And how can I assemble it ? Also what kind of graphic card should I get to not get the GPU bottleneck ? P/S:Sorry for my bad English and the computer details is here https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c04874664" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8809" RevisionGUID="80eb4809-0ded-49d7-9229-c0bd01bc1daa" CreationDate="2018-02-04T14:52:43.697" UserId="7849" Text="Get new graphic card for HP ENVY 27-p011?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8809" RevisionGUID="80eb4809-0ded-49d7-9229-c0bd01bc1daa" CreationDate="2018-02-04T14:52:43.697" UserId="7849" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28188" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="1c514736-3d5b-43f2-990e-a527ec690349" CreationDate="2018-02-04T19:01:44.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28189" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8810" RevisionGUID="727936e1-93e7-406f-84bb-1b5410fc0a74" CreationDate="2018-02-04T19:52:23.547" UserId="7556" Text="# You can't really.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Per the specs page:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Discrete AMD R7 A365 GPU: Permanently soldered to the motherboard and is not in card form factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also no Thunderbolt, so an eGPU using that is out of the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only option left would be to do use one of the PCI-e equipped M.2 slots [on the motherboard](https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c04854832) and some sort of [M.2 to PCI-e riser](https://www.amazon.com/Bee-easter-riser-expansion-adapter/dp/B073WG56FV).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I would strongly discourage this, as it'll be [extremely difficult to actually modify your PC to work as such.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS2CsCy5l5c)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR9jX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9QSX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28191" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="050f3799-d72d-4ebb-92ea-c9147e336ba8" CreationDate="2018-02-04T22:01:49.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28192" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="251523f1-685e-46ba-9b77-84be50818810" CreationDate="2018-02-04T23:01:49.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28193" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="6dce2b34-61cc-448b-bc38-22d7754c9c0b" CreationDate="2018-02-05T01:07:57.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8811" RevisionGUID="6b12a554-2a0b-47f3-92dd-571ec13c5b64" CreationDate="2018-02-05T07:06:45.243" UserId="7851" Text="Old topic, however no complete answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everybody knows GSM Arena web site with thousands of device specs? Then it's as easy as searching using their dedicated form. Even though the search feature doesn't list intel CPUs in chipset selection, one can find those using free text.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following search returns (at the time of writing) 34 devices (among 3789+ Android-based devices):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&amp;sOSes=2&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28196" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="6f6a58b2-0809-4c28-b397-71e90e8470b8" CreationDate="2018-02-05T07:11:11.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="056471b6-c94c-4288-8283-c8381d223cda" CreationDate="2018-02-05T07:42:25.880" UserId="7852" Text="My company has tasked me with ordering servers for testing software before the software enters production in a business to business environment. We will be having 12-15 people on these machines at all times with numerous virtual machines running on top of a vmware hypervisor. Our company has a contract with Dell and I've been looking at what CPU we should purchase for a Dell PowerEdge R640 and I'm looking at 2 of them, an Intel Xeon Gold 6130 and an Intel Xeon Gold 6126. The 6130 has 16 physical cores but only runs at a base frequency of 2.1GHz while the 6126 has 12 cores and runs at a base of 2.6GHz. On Dell.com, the 6130 is only $80 more than the 6126 which isn't a big deal, but what do you guys recommend? I'm leaning more towards the 6130 because it has more cores which means more multitasking and running more virtual machines or giving more cores to a virtual machine, but it runs at a slower base frequency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="056471b6-c94c-4288-8283-c8381d223cda" CreationDate="2018-02-05T07:42:25.880" UserId="7852" Text="Intel Xeon Gold 6130 or Intel Xeon Gold 6126" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="056471b6-c94c-4288-8283-c8381d223cda" CreationDate="2018-02-05T07:42:25.880" UserId="7852" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28201" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8809" RevisionGUID="8e8a5268-4e19-457e-921c-f3a2f538d41c" CreationDate="2018-02-05T15:25:21.813" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28202" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="0509b79a-c377-423e-9ae5-552f769494f0" CreationDate="2018-02-05T18:18:46.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28205" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8811" RevisionGUID="9e7241fa-1a9d-4ef7-9740-c9ad44ba41bf" CreationDate="2018-02-06T11:54:12.487" UserId="7851" Comment="Added current list" Text="Old topic, however no complete answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everybody knows GSM Arena web site with thousands of device specs? Then it's as easy as searching using their dedicated form. Even though the search feature doesn't list intel CPUs in chipset selection, one can find those using free text.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following search returns (at the time of writing) 34 devices (among 3789+ Android-based devices):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&amp;sOSes=2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the list extracted today:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 2 ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone C ZC451CG Android smartphone. Announced 2015, January. Features 3G, 4.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone C ZC451CG&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 5 A500CG (2014) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, January. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 5 A500CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 4 (2014) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, January. Features 3G, 4.0″ TFT capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 4 (2014)&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 6 A600CG Android smartphone. Announced 2014, January. Features 3G, 6.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 6 A600CG&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 2 ZE550ML Android smartphone. Announced 2015, March. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 2 ZE550ML&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZE551ML Android smartphone. Announced 2015, August. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo K900 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, January. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Lenovo&#xD;&#xA;K900&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 5 A501CG (2015) Android smartphone. Announced 2015, January. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 5 A501CG (2015)&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX551ML Android smartphone. Announced 2015, September. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP (f/2.7-4.8 camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone Zoom ZX551ML&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX550 Android smartphone. Announced 2015, January. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP (f/2.7-4.8 camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone Zoom ZX550&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 2 ZE500CL Android smartphone. Announced 2015, March. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 2 ZE500CL&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 5 Lite A502CG (2014) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, November. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 5 Lite A502CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo P90 Android smartphone. Announced 2015, January. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Lenovo&#xD;&#xA;P90&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 4 A450CG (2014) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, June. Features 3G, 4.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 4 A450CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo K80 Android smartphone. Announced 2015, April. Features 3G, 5.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Lenovo&#xD;&#xA;K80&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 2E Android smartphone. Announced 2015, July. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 2E&#xD;&#xA;Motorola RAZR i XT890 Android smartphone. Announced 2012, September. Features 3G, 4.3″ Super AMOLED Advanced capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Motorola&#xD;&#xA;RAZR i XT890&#xD;&#xA;Asus Zenfone 6 A601CG Android smartphone. Announced 2014, January. Features 3G, 6.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 13 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Zenfone 6 A601CG&#xD;&#xA;Asus PadFone X mini Android smartphone. Announced 2014, October. Features 3G, 4.5″ IPS+ LCD capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;PadFone X mini&#xD;&#xA;Asus Fonepad Note FHD6 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, June. Features 3G, 6.0″ Super IPS+ LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;Fonepad Note FHD6&#xD;&#xA;Asus PadFone mini (Intel) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, January. Features 3G, 4.0″ IPS+ LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;PadFone mini (Intel)&#xD;&#xA;ZTE Geek V975 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, April. Features 3G, 5.0″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.ZTE&#xD;&#xA;Geek V975&#xD;&#xA; Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45 Android smartphone. Announced 2017, March. Features 1.39″ AMOLED capacitive touchscreen, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo K800 Android smartphone. Announced 2012, January. Features 3G, 4.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Lenovo&#xD;&#xA;K800&#xD;&#xA;ZTE Grand X IN Android smartphone. Announced 2012, August. Features 3G, 4.3″ TFT capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.ZTE&#xD;&#xA;Grand X IN&#xD;&#xA;Acer Liquid C1 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, January. Features 3G, 4.3″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Acer&#xD;&#xA;Liquid C1&#xD;&#xA;Asus PadFone mini 4G (Intel) Android smartphone. Announced 2014, September. Features 3G, 4.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Asus&#xD;&#xA;PadFone mini 4G (Intel)&#xD;&#xA;Orange San Diego Android smartphone. Announced 2012, February. Features 3G, 4.0″ TFT capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.Orange&#xD;&#xA;San Diego&#xD;&#xA;Prestigio MultiPhone 5430 Duo Android smartphone. Announced 2013. Features 3G, 4.3″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth.Prestigio&#xD;&#xA;MultiPhone 5430 Duo&#xD;&#xA;ZTE Grand X2 In Android smartphone. Announced 2013, May. Features 4.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.ZTE&#xD;&#xA;Grand X2 In&#xD;&#xA;XOLO X910 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, May. Features 3G, 4.3″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.XOLO&#xD;&#xA;X910&#xD;&#xA;XOLO X500 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, January. Features 3G, 3.5″ IPS LCD capacitive touchscreen, 5 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.XOLO&#xD;&#xA;X500&#xD;&#xA;XOLO X1000 Android smartphone. Announced 2013, March. Features 3G, 4.7″ TFT capacitive touchscreen, 8 MP camera, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth.XOLO&#xD;&#xA;X1000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8811" RevisionGUID="4f95f63d-d4a7-4f69-b973-27a2888914e0" CreationDate="2018-02-06T13:14:37.030" UserId="7851" Comment="deleted 4921 characters in body" Text="Old topic, however no complete answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everybody knows GSM Arena web site with thousands of device specs? Then it's as easy as searching using their dedicated form. Even though the search feature doesn't list intel CPUs in chipset selection, one can find those using free text.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following search returns (at the time of writing) 34 devices (among 3789+ Android-based devices), some being just variants of one another:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&amp;sOSes=2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the list extracted today:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML &#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone C ZC451CG&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 5 A500CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 4 (2014)&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 6 A600CG&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 ZE550ML&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZE551ML&#xD;&#xA;    Lenovo K900&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 5 A501CG (2015)&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX551ML&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX550&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 ZE500CL&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 5 Lite A502CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;    Lenovo P90&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 4 A450CG (2014)&#xD;&#xA;    Lenovo K80&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2E&#xD;&#xA;    Motorola RAZR i XT890&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 6 A601CG&#xD;&#xA;    Asus PadFone X mini&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Fonepad Note FHD6&#xD;&#xA;    Asus PadFone mini (Intel)&#xD;&#xA;    ZTE Geek V975&#xD;&#xA;    ZTE Grand X IN&#xD;&#xA;    Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45 Android watch&#xD;&#xA;    Lenovo K800&#xD;&#xA;    Acer Liquid C1&#xD;&#xA;    Asus PadFone mini 4G (Intel)&#xD;&#xA;    Orange San Diego&#xD;&#xA;    Prestigio MultiPhone 5430 Duo&#xD;&#xA;    ZTE Grand X2 In&#xD;&#xA;    XOLO X910&#xD;&#xA;    XOLO X500&#xD;&#xA;    XOLO X1000&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28210" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8811" RevisionGUID="30f5663b-cce1-442a-bac3-271044c51401" CreationDate="2018-02-06T13:25:19.943" UserId="7851" Comment="added 1090 characters in body; added 36 characters in body" Text="Old topic, however no complete answer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everybody knows GSM Arena web site with thousands of device specs? Then it's as easy as searching using their dedicated form. Even though the search feature doesn't list intel CPUs in chipset selection, one can find those using free text.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following search returns (at the time of writing) 34 devices (among 3789+ Android-based devices), some being just variants of one another:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&amp;sOSes=2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the search URL and list extracted based on OP's requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nCpuMHzMin=2000&amp;nRamMin=2000&amp;sFreeText=INTEL&amp;sOSes=2&amp;idCardslot=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 64 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 5 A500CG (2014) Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2014. Features 5.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 2 MP front camera, 2110 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 6 A600CG Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2014. Features 6.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 2 MP front camera, 3300 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZE551ML Android smartphone. Announced Aug 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 256 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX551ML Android smartphone. Announced Sep 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3590 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 128 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 4.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX550 Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 128 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Asus Fonepad Note FHD6 Android smartphone. Announced Jun 2013. Features 6.0″ Super IPS+ LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 1.2 MP front camera, 3200 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ZTE Geek V975 Android smartphone. Announced Apr 2013. Features 5.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 1 MP front camera, 2300 mAh battery, 16 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28217" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="f3b66ca7-7c9c-4cdc-95e6-7a6cf4b09808" CreationDate="2018-02-06T15:38:02.923" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28224" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="d6a75b54-aaaf-4c68-b54c-f7d7690b5c86" CreationDate="2018-02-06T21:42:58.173" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28231" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="ccf36771-7e40-40c4-96e9-2c2ea0073593" CreationDate="2018-02-07T12:46:31.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28235" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="d69fd2ef-fbb1-4b73-a869-ef02eafe0894" CreationDate="2018-02-07T15:39:38.797" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the off-topic questions" Text="I am looking for a male-to-male USB extender to connect an older USB 2.0-only printer and a desktop. There is a 40ft gap between the two. Running between those is an unused Cat 5e cable  (I think it's 5e, I haven't verified yet).   They simply want to connect the printer to the computer so the obvious answer is to just terminate each end of the available Cat5e cable with USB extenders. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, when I search for USB extenders over cat5/cat5e/cat6, every single one that I find has a male USB-to-network adapter and a female USB-to-network adapter. Yet, every use-case I can think of where you would want a USB cable extended over cat5/5e/6 would ultimately want male USB connectors on both ends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sure, I can buy a male/female extender, which would have the 3 obvious components (female USB-to-network + network cable + male USB-to-network), and then add a fourth component which is a typical male-to-male cable. But that's adding another point of failure and potentially bothersome signal degradation into the system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe the problem is I am searching for &quot;extender&quot; and I should be searching for some other term?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28236" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8798" RevisionGUID="4cf9738b-8338-4c4f-b76b-e00e8942cc9c" CreationDate="2018-02-07T15:39:39.133" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8819" RevisionGUID="05478e45-06ed-4c9f-b2af-5428781c7807" CreationDate="2018-02-07T18:27:07.820" UserId="7863" Text="I think you're leaning on the right side and feel that not because it has more physical cores but also it has the more Static ram which makes multi-tasking much smoother.And as you said it has less clock rate but in specs, it also mentioned that you can turbo boost that up to 3.7GHz&#xD;&#xA;I fully suggest you on picking 6130 for your server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28242" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="152" RevisionGUID="4ccfcbfa-883e-491e-bcb5-c4667406017f" CreationDate="2018-02-07T19:46:51.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28250" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="fbd226f8-89a1-45c5-94b0-c4c92285a560" CreationDate="2018-02-08T04:52:08.943" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8821" RevisionGUID="ec6ad4f2-87cf-410f-b263-d3898b780519" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:03:43.120" UserId="7868" Text="Many heavy apps which plays an important role in productivity are unmovable to SD card by default: Word, Google Maps, Google Sheet, Tick Tick, Dropbox, OneDrive. I've tried to follow [Is there a way to move unmovable apps to the SD card in Android 6.0?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/150583/94084) on my current phone (Sony E2312, Android 6.0.1, rooted and xposed) and failed to success, but I can't remember why because it has been a long time ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand the risk of this (removing the memory card, can't use widgets), but the need to use them is large. Which phone and Android version allow me to install **any** app on the card, or at least transfer a large portion of data onto it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28252" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8821" RevisionGUID="ec6ad4f2-87cf-410f-b263-d3898b780519" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:03:43.120" UserId="7868" Text="Android phone that can install unmovable apps on SD card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28253" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8821" RevisionGUID="ec6ad4f2-87cf-410f-b263-d3898b780519" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:03:43.120" UserId="7868" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8822" RevisionGUID="7c43828c-739d-4651-8619-a52bbc0fcdd7" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:59:57.700" UserId="4922" Text="We’re implementing an access control system where people bring a code, printed or on a smartphone (their choice), to get access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are free in the choice of code system, as long as it’s capable of encoding a 14-digit alpha-numeric string. QR works, as well as Code128.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We want to allow scanning with off-the-shelf Android devices. Our first idea was to use a barcode scanning app, but the autofocus of the camera is too slow and each scan takes around 10 - 20 seconds. Sometimes, e.g. on a sunny day, the camera-based scanner would not even work at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What we’re looking for now is an external scanner with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Runs with Android.&#xD;&#xA;- Connects via Bluetooth (prefered) or USB.&#xD;&#xA;- Able to read from a smartphone screen or paper, even under non-ideal conditions.&#xD;&#xA;- Easy configuration and usage for less tech-savvy users.&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally some kind of targeting assistance, e.g. a red dot/line/cross.&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally 100 Euros or less; hopefully not more than 200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found several cheap laser scanners on Amazon and ordered one of them. It is pretty solid and works nicely with paper, but I didn’t know that this type of scanner cannot scan from smartphone displays." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28255" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8822" RevisionGUID="7c43828c-739d-4651-8619-a52bbc0fcdd7" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:59:57.700" UserId="4922" Text="Barcode or 2D-Code scanner for Android, capable of scanning from displays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28256" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8822" RevisionGUID="7c43828c-739d-4651-8619-a52bbc0fcdd7" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:59:57.700" UserId="4922" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8823" RevisionGUID="500d7b8b-5321-4ebe-b42e-094e3c7a00b6" CreationDate="2018-02-08T15:28:13.690" UserId="4922" Text="I have purchased a Grandstream GXP2200 several years ago and am quite happy with it. This is a table-top phone which runs Android and connects to your LAN via Ethernet or Wifi. It supports all common Android features and you can even install apps. The only downside is that they are really slow updating the Android version. Mine has still 2.3, and their current line is on Android 4.2!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they have a line of cheaper SIP table-top phones which seem to have a different OS. They still have a bunch of nice features (e.g. managing multiple SIP accounts) and they are sold for 25 Euros (GXP1610) to 60 Euros (GXP1630) on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.grandstream.com/products/ip-voice-telephony/basic-ip-phones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28260" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="44c3e8bb-0919-437e-a704-ed5dd4ee3f5b" CreationDate="2018-02-08T16:07:30.647" UserId="60" Comment="Added kinda relevent tags" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28261" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5422" RevisionGUID="1fc7d841-4328-46fb-bccc-527ce6a9cda6" CreationDate="2018-02-08T16:10:24.513" UserId="60" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4195" RevisionGUID="44c3e8bb-0919-437e-a704-ed5dd4ee3f5b" CreationDate="2018-02-08T16:07:30.647" UserId="60" Comment="Added kinda relevent tags" Text="I work with a software development team inside local government. Our team have developed an app for Apple IPhone 6 SE with Cordova that requires carers to &quot;check-in&quot; to client visits. Clients typically are vulnerable people, like the aged and severely disabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like the check-in to be possible only when the carer is at a client's home. We absolutely need to ensure this, to prevent potential fraud.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One idea that has been touted is a fob kept in the client's home alongside their care docs. The fob will contain a code identifying the client. Only when the fob is plugged into the IPhone will the app allow checkin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would any of you know if such a device exists? Or a similar type of solution?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IBeacons have been mentioned but are too expensive per unit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28263" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="b007dc7a-8d13-49f7-b750-e179bdfeabb4" CreationDate="2018-02-08T18:52:09.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28264" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="8ee35fa8-b04f-4c64-90ad-6b68b5826edc" CreationDate="2018-02-08T20:54:37.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28271" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="f5b6e37c-44de-4771-953b-86bb3548a078" CreationDate="2018-02-09T06:02:55.763" UserId="30" Comment="as it’s a requirement not to rely on proprietary software, adding the [floss] tag" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;floss&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28272" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="f5b6e37c-44de-4771-953b-86bb3548a078" CreationDate="2018-02-09T06:02:55.763" Comment="Proposed by 30 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 638" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8826" RevisionGUID="985df777-86df-43ef-943c-290986f99d8a" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:32:11.997" UserId="7872" Text="I am assembling a new workstation and don't know what kind of GPU I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking about an AMD GPU since I need OpenCL 2.x, but there are quite a lot of options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Radeon Pro WX 9100&#xD;&#xA;* Radeon RX Vega 64&#xD;&#xA;* Radeon Pro Frontier Edition&#xD;&#xA;* AMD FirePro W9100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and I don't really understand what GPU to choose. All of them are more or less the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose of the workstation is to run heterogeneous physics computations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you please advise me which GPU is better to take for my purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional information: I don't know if it plays a role in the decision making, but I am planning to put two GPUs in the workstation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28279" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8826" RevisionGUID="985df777-86df-43ef-943c-290986f99d8a" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:32:11.997" UserId="7872" Text="AMD GPU for a workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28280" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8826" RevisionGUID="985df777-86df-43ef-943c-290986f99d8a" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:32:11.997" UserId="7872" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28281" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ada123d8-fc3f-41f5-9cad-3060bc1ed211" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:55:14.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28291" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="59fca853-2920-4db8-ae64-86a2c55fad04" CreationDate="2018-02-09T21:00:29.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8821" RevisionGUID="89032168-5a24-4af1-89ef-7aeb824fd2c6" CreationDate="2018-02-10T02:44:10.620" UserId="7868" Comment="added 200 characters in body; edited title" Text="Many heavy apps which plays an important role in productivity are unmovable to SD card by default: Word, Google Maps, Google Sheet, Tick Tick, Dropbox, OneDrive. I've tried to follow [Is there a way to move unmovable apps to the SD card in Android 6.0?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/150583/94084) on my current phone (Sony E2312, Android 6.0.1, rooted and xposed) and failed to success, but I can't remember why because it has been a long time ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand the risk of this (removing the memory card, can't use widgets), but the need to use them is large. Which phone and Android version allow me to install **any** app on the card, or at least transfer a large portion of data onto it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[This question is also asked on Reddit.](https://www.reddit.com/r/PickAnAndroidForMe/comments/7wiqye/what_phone_can_install_unmovable_apps_on_sd_card/?ref=share&amp;ref_source=link)&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28294" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8821" RevisionGUID="89032168-5a24-4af1-89ef-7aeb824fd2c6" CreationDate="2018-02-10T02:44:10.620" UserId="7868" Comment="added 200 characters in body; edited title" Text="What Android phone can install unmovable apps on SD card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28305" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="71ac8e84-d13d-4984-8229-a2330f28d4b5" CreationDate="2018-02-10T20:29:00.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28306" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="2c99a2ed-516f-419f-8e77-0f837e6a4265" CreationDate="2018-02-10T22:29:03.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8831" RevisionGUID="5198f62e-ec01-45a0-b0f4-030770e4ef97" CreationDate="2018-02-11T01:57:53.390" UserId="7880" Text="I have a friend who is an architect and now is looking to build 3d models.&#xD;&#xA;He needs a new pc for fast 3d rendering and architecture related work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of components that I recommended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core I5 7600 7th Gen processor LGA 1151 socket 3.5Ghz &#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR4 LPX 2400MHz C16 RAM Kit for X99 Chipset (CMK8GX4M1A2400C16R) &#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2 LGA 1151 6th Gen F20 &#xD;&#xA; - HDD Seagate &#xD;&#xA; - WD Green 120GB Internal Solid State Drive &#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Carbide Series CC-9011050 &#xD;&#xA; - Corsair CP-9020098-UK VS Series VS650 650 Watt &#xD;&#xA; - FAN Cooler Master Hyper 212X &#xD;&#xA; - Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC Edition ZT-P10510B-10L 4GB PCI Express Graphics Card &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Will this be a good pc form him to work on**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the graphics card suitable for 3d work?&#xD;&#xA;Is the power supply overkill with 650W or should I go with 450W?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do mention if you have any recommendation of other products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28308" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8831" RevisionGUID="5198f62e-ec01-45a0-b0f4-030770e4ef97" CreationDate="2018-02-11T01:57:53.390" UserId="7880" Text="Graphics card and Power supply for architecture and 3d Modeling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28309" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8831" RevisionGUID="5198f62e-ec01-45a0-b0f4-030770e4ef97" CreationDate="2018-02-11T01:57:53.390" UserId="7880" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8832" RevisionGUID="7238a8de-b41f-4f6a-a189-b3e444bfeb2e" CreationDate="2018-02-11T12:45:04.270" UserId="7879" Text="In case you don't mind paying near to $250 on a fitness watch, you need to check out the Garmin Vívoactive 3. This is the best ever I could suggest within your budget and also it has all the features you want like you said above. BUT, if you need to make a second choice, you should consider the Fitbit Ionic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is like a straight fight between Pepsi vs Cola, DC vs Marvel, PS4 vs Xbox One, Android vs iOS. So the rival for Garmin is Fitbit. You can take a look at the [comparison][1] or read review before making final choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wearvs.com/compare/fitbit-ionic-vs-garmin-vivoactive-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28313" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="3baf6daf-6dae-4929-8484-9f1a2fcf31f1" CreationDate="2018-02-11T15:34:20.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8834" RevisionGUID="e242408e-4749-4885-94ec-f4a39e8850c2" CreationDate="2018-02-12T00:18:42.157" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- has a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060, 1070, or 1080&#xD;&#xA;- supports 64 GB of RAM (it doesn't have to come with 64 GB of RAM, but I should be able to upgrade to 64 GB)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Windows 7 can be installed on it (it doesn't have to be &quot;officially&quot; supported).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28318" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8834" RevisionGUID="e242408e-4749-4885-94ec-f4a39e8850c2" CreationDate="2018-02-12T00:18:42.157" UserId="40" Text="Laptop with a GTX 1060 or up, supporting 64 GB of RAM, Windows 7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28319" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8834" RevisionGUID="e242408e-4749-4885-94ec-f4a39e8850c2" CreationDate="2018-02-12T00:18:42.157" UserId="40" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8834" RevisionGUID="5d0b3311-0d07-43e2-9c02-d4cf28820e17" CreationDate="2018-02-12T00:24:19.597" UserId="40" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- has an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060, 1070, or 1080&#xD;&#xA;- supports 64 GB of RAM (it doesn't have to come with 64 GB of RAM, but I should be able to upgrade to 64 GB)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Windows 7 can be installed on it (it doesn't have to be &quot;officially&quot; supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;PS: I need Windows 7, please don't add comment about Windows 10 or virtual machines. I've already other computers running on Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28321" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8834" RevisionGUID="4b2b03c5-db87-4499-85d6-459d83ffd621" CreationDate="2018-02-12T02:45:22.707" UserId="40" Comment="added 106 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop with the following specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- has an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060, 1070, or 1080&#xD;&#xA;- supports 64 GB of RAM (it doesn't have to come with 64 GB of RAM, but I should be able to upgrade to 64 GB)&#xD;&#xA;- Microsoft Windows 7 can be installed on it (it doesn't have to be &quot;officially&quot; supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: up to around 3kUSD (no hard limit)&#xD;&#xA;- Preferred country of purchase: United States&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;PS: I need Windows 7, please don't add comment about Windows 10 or virtual machines. I've already other computers running on Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8835" RevisionGUID="e70c8cb4-be20-4ddc-99d8-2f57f6cd399e" CreationDate="2018-02-12T03:07:52.103" UserId="5440" Text="Although there cannot be a single answer, there are a lot of devices from different gaming manufacturers that meet your criteria, but I will point you to this [**MSI GT75VR TITAN PRO-215**][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it ticks all the boxes and more benefits:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has the Nvidia 1080 (the best of the 3)&#xD;&#xA; - Comes already with a good 64GB or RAM&#xD;&#xA; - The quad-core i7 is not bad...although you have not mentioned CPU specifically&#xD;&#xA; - Has a fast SSD for a bonus... but still enough storage in the secondary HDD&#xD;&#xA; - It comes with Windows 10 (like every recent device...) but there is no reason why you would not be able to install Windows 7 on it. Windows Updates will not work out-of-the-box in Windows 7 (because it is a 7th gen Intel CPU) but you can use something like [wufuc][2] to get around it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/PRO-215-Extreme-i7-7700HQ-Windows-Notebook/dp/B079CD4QHN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=yisroel-20&amp;linkId=f441cc723c1a70bc2b7ee0107b9de6d5&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/zeffy/wufuc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8836" RevisionGUID="37b865f5-4f01-487f-9837-82425ac889f7" CreationDate="2018-02-12T07:04:11.837" UserId="2224" Text="In our office we use as a shared folder (we are 30 users). This older exists in a local server `Windows Server 2008 R2`. The problem is that the free disk space of our server is getting very low, so I thought to get an NAS disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some search, I ended to these devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [SYNOLOGY DS718+][1] and&#xD;&#xA; - [WD Red PRO NAS 4TB][2] (2 of them in raid 1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this combination a good recommendation for us? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our network is built with gigabit switches and UTP cables of Cat 5e and 6 and&#xD;&#xA;I can plug in 2 utp cables in the DS718+. Our files are mostly MS office files, PDFs, and image files (from Adobe Photoshop, illustrator)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/DS718+&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wdc.com/products/business-internal-storage/wd-red-pro.html#WD4002FFWX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28329" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8836" RevisionGUID="37b865f5-4f01-487f-9837-82425ac889f7" CreationDate="2018-02-12T07:04:11.837" UserId="2224" Text="SYNOLOGY DS718+ NAS disk as shared folder for 30 people" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28330" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8836" RevisionGUID="37b865f5-4f01-487f-9837-82425ac889f7" CreationDate="2018-02-12T07:04:11.837" UserId="2224" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8837" RevisionGUID="3783926a-a683-4f68-a516-3e3f33c3ae43" CreationDate="2018-02-12T18:56:12.360" UserId="5143" Text="I bought Dell Vostro 3800 in a Slim Tower case. What WiFi adapter would fit into such a case?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The case has the following dimensions 102 * 433 * 360mm (W * D * H), while popular WiFi adapters do not to fit. For instance, [TP Link TL-WN781ND][1] is too wide: 120.8 * 78.5 * 21.5mm. &#xD;&#xA;* The case has PCI-e x16, PCI-e x1 and PCI slots free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-5519_TL-WN781ND.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28334" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8837" RevisionGUID="3783926a-a683-4f68-a516-3e3f33c3ae43" CreationDate="2018-02-12T18:56:12.360" UserId="5143" Text="WiFi adapter for Slim Tower case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28335" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8837" RevisionGUID="3783926a-a683-4f68-a516-3e3f33c3ae43" CreationDate="2018-02-12T18:56:12.360" UserId="5143" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8838" RevisionGUID="ef728e5a-e353-4e9a-8724-fc08bd6ba06b" CreationDate="2018-02-12T19:52:27.550" UserId="7556" Text="# The [Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166121)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm guessing based off your post you want an internal adapter, and not a USB one. I'm a little surprised you want one at all given it already has an internal card, but hey–if you want a bit of an upgrade, here's your card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As @SiXandSeven8ths said, you'll need a card with a low profile bracket. Luckily, almost every card comes with one–this one included!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're working in a proprietary case and weird PSU, I decided against any cards with an external power connector. I also went with wireless AC, since you seem to be looking for an upgrade. [This left](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/wireless-network-card/#i=35&amp;e=31&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1) the TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300, TRENDnet TEW-807ECH, Asus PCE-AC56, and our Rosewill card all around the same price point. Both the TP-Link and Asus cards seem to have massive compatibility issues with Windows 10 Fall Creator's Update, and the TRENDnet card seems to have some QC issues, leaving the Rosewill card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEtAL.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28350" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="9fc590ee-f20d-42b2-9b69-6d39f0bad68e" CreationDate="2018-02-13T23:12:02.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28351" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="613fdc92-660c-47f0-b129-c005068c07ce" CreationDate="2018-02-14T04:14:08.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28352" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="d89cd92d-e3fe-465e-a708-ae918b4f3eeb" CreationDate="2018-02-14T05:14:07.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28353" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="709" RevisionGUID="e1a7fb4a-efa5-437f-a19f-ea5b79fb5d45" CreationDate="2018-02-14T08:47:59.003" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 357 characters in body" Text="I was assuming you're pretty much going to have to get a TV at that price, and you might be running at a lower refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I instead picked up a [Crossover 289K][4], sight unseen. Its an interesting series of compromises that seem to add up to something I'd recommend). I've been running it for over a year now, and its been fine so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I paid ~ USD 350 with shipping and prices from ebay and prices seem to vary a few dollars from week to week&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(To the left, the crossover, to the right, my dell. Sorry for the potato quality photos)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit short, so its on a crate. If it worked for kylie... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While you can never trust the pictures sellers use, the 'official' beauty shot shows off the industrial design pretty well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has Displayport, most modern conveniences including an OSD (which many of these don't have) and a adjustable stand. This particular model doesn't seem to have a perfect pixel guarantee which may or may not be an issue for you.  Mine was *perfect*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks like all the HDMI ports do 4k60, which wasn't documented anywehre.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Box contents for me were a manual, a french style power connector, an *entirely standard* 12V PSU (so, if yours dies, you can replace it with a suitable *standard* unit). The PSU was nestled into the packaging so some digging was needed. You also get a fairly solid DP cable (which despite some reports about such monitors does 2160p60 quite happily). That strange triangle is a screwdriver used to screw the base in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The base itself is a slab of what feels like tempered glass with 3 holes in it, which screw into a bit of extruded aluminium screwed into the back of the monitor. I found it easier to unscrew the 4 screws connecting the monitor to the aluminium, screwing in the base and screwing it on. You might also choose to ditch that for the entirely standard VESA mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The monitor has a pretty impressive set of inputs/outputs. One DP, 3 x HDMI 2.0 (one of which does MHL) , one VGA (1080p only) and a USB port for use with a basic onboard media player. It also supports HCDP 2.0 though there's no way for me to check.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This model has a *remote control* as an option. Get it.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the lovely, large, very well labelled buttons are *behind* the screen, it is probably handy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are lovely, large buttons and labelled through the front.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its beautifully sharp, though its TN and not as good, colourwise as my IPS. Still, its a great, sharp monitor for not much money. Colour caliberation went a long way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like many of these cheap screens, it seems to have some degree of backlight bleed, but this is primarily obvious in perfect darkness and I'm planning on experimenting with bias lighting to see if it helps. Would still totally recommend this as a second monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.seiki.com/content/39-se39uy04-led-ultra-hdtv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8RW38E5771&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-Discontinued/dp/B00DOPGO2G&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&amp;pg=289k&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/BNHyG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/o9LHX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Jd1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/6G96i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28357" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="b470fae6-3c9c-4b6d-b299-44a359cc8b8b" CreationDate="2018-02-14T23:29:25.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28361" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="2424896b-8e3a-4971-ad5f-4f710bc37cd4" CreationDate="2018-02-15T02:28:34.340" UserId="5449" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="So I have gone through a lot of cheapo headphones because the headphones blow out.&#xD;&#xA;Are there headphones that can't be blown out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like them to fit in a pocket and not be like the big ones that go on your head.  I'm using the earbuds with an android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: So I determined the 3.5mm was wearing out on the cheap headphones I was buying." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6712" RevisionGUID="41a9a5d0-d500-4d85-b077-668337db0f23" CreationDate="2018-02-15T02:32:07.673" UserId="5449" Comment="added 97 characters in body" Text="So I tested the device I bought below and it doesn't work with cd drives.  I am not sure why.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This appears to work but only works on the laptop cd drives.  Which means the power would be a problem on a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB 2.0 to 7+6 13Pin Slimline SATA Laptop CD/DVD Rom Optical Drive Adapter Cable Black/White&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/13Pin-Slimline-Laptop-Optical-Adapter/dp/B00C574Q5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485286747&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=external+cd+drive+with+sata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28366" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="b0434ec9-2fca-4ba9-9982-2ef6c6dfa536" CreationDate="2018-02-15T07:42:18.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28368" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="eb30ec69-d80c-45ed-b2ff-815f34ac245c" CreationDate="2018-02-15T09:42:23.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="db901a68-ceee-478b-8fd0-54371b94a251" CreationDate="2018-02-15T10:15:40.500" UserId="2092" Text="I recently bought a long HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV. Works fine, but I have a corded mouse and keyboard. It works, but it is rather inconvenient to drag the cables around. I will propably buy a wireless mouse, but a while ago I bought a rather expensive mechanical keyboard, which I don't want to exchange.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard has a standard USB 2.0 port, where I usually connect the USB cable. Is there some kind of generic USB adapter, so that I can connect this keyboard wireless to my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a bonus: I also have an XBOX One Controller and Microsoft decided not to deliver some kind of conectivity, except bluetooth, which I can't use on my PC. It would be amazing if there would be a solution I could use for both, controller and keyboard (not neccessarily at the same time). The controller has a standard USB 2.0 Micro-USB port I could use for that. Some kind of wireless hub with small USB connectors in different formats or something similar would be cool. I don't know if there is something like this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28370" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="db901a68-ceee-478b-8fd0-54371b94a251" CreationDate="2018-02-15T10:15:40.500" UserId="2092" Text="Generic wireless USB Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28371" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="db901a68-ceee-478b-8fd0-54371b94a251" CreationDate="2018-02-15T10:15:40.500" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="93fff433-ae93-4517-84ea-ddc9edeb1ed8" CreationDate="2018-02-15T12:22:54.880" UserId="2092" Comment="added 562 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I recently bought a long HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV. Works fine, but I have a corded mouse and keyboard. It works, but it is rather inconvenient to drag the cables around. I will propably buy a wireless mouse, but a while ago I bought a rather expensive mechanical keyboard, which I don't want to exchange.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard has a standard USB 2.0 port, where I usually connect the USB cable. Is there some kind of generic USB adapter, so that I can connect this keyboard wireless to my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a bonus: I also have an XBOX One Controller and Microsoft decided not to deliver some kind of conectivity, except bluetooth, which I can't use on my PC. It would be amazing if there would be a solution I could use for both, controller and keyboard (not neccessarily at the same time). The controller has a standard USB 2.0 Micro-USB port I could use for that. Some kind of wireless hub with small USB connectors in different formats or something similar would be cool. I don't know if there is something like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional question after I browsed some online shops: I have found some low cost bluetooth receivers I could plug into my computer. With that I could use the controller wireless. But they are just receivers for bluetooth devices. Is there such a connector I could plug into my keyboard to make it a bluetooth device? This would be the simplest solution from my point of view.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But also a question regarding bluetooth: When this would work, like I imagine and I connect the keyboard via bluetooth, could I still use the keyboard pre-boot? Like in the BIOS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28373" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="93fff433-ae93-4517-84ea-ddc9edeb1ed8" CreationDate="2018-02-15T12:22:54.880" UserId="2092" Comment="added 562 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Generic wireless USB Adapter/ Bluetooth transmitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28374" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="93fff433-ae93-4517-84ea-ddc9edeb1ed8" CreationDate="2018-02-15T12:22:54.880" UserId="2092" Comment="added 562 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8845" RevisionGUID="fefd9d42-a8a9-4181-9e71-244c8b8b5072" CreationDate="2018-02-15T12:30:41.767" UserId="2092" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="I recently bought a long HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV. Works fine, but I have a corded mouse and keyboard. It works, but it is rather inconvenient to drag the cables around. I will propably buy a wireless mouse, but a while ago I bought a rather expensive mechanical keyboard, which I don't want to exchange.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard has a standard USB 2.0 port, where I usually connect the USB cable. Is there some kind of generic USB adapter, so that I can connect this keyboard wireless to my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a bonus: I also have an XBOX One Controller and Microsoft decided not to deliver some kind of conectivity, except bluetooth, which I can't use on my PC. It would be amazing if there would be a solution I could use for both, controller and keyboard (not neccessarily at the same time). The controller has a standard USB 2.0 Micro-USB port I could use for that. Some kind of wireless hub with small USB connectors in different formats or something similar would be cool. I don't know if there is something like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional question after I browsed some online shops: I have found some low cost bluetooth receivers I could plug into my computer. With that I could use the controller wireless. But they are just receivers for bluetooth devices. Is there such a connector I could plug into my keyboard to make it a bluetooth device? This would be the simplest solution from my point of view.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But also a question regarding bluetooth: When this would work, like I imagine and I connect the keyboard via bluetooth, could I still use the keyboard pre-boot? Like in the BIOS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just realised that I would have a problem with powering the keyboard... any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8848" RevisionGUID="8658a9e3-db1e-452a-a5d3-36c9ccf860ff" CreationDate="2018-02-15T14:00:41.783" UserId="7894" Text="Folks,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to find a network card that is compatible with the motherboard pine row, this board is in a firewall, the client prefers to buy a network card that has two network outputs and is pci-express, but this motherboard pine row is desktop, which takes some board options by being server boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The model of the card is the same, or at least very similar to that of the advertisement:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Pro-300...-2-Duo-E7500-2-93GHz-CPU-/361738139160?_ul=BR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The network cards I considered interesting by the specification are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Common PCI Intel:&#xD;&#xA;https: //producto.mercadolivre.com.br...-pci-pro1000mt-chipset-82546gb-_JM? source = gps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCI-Express Chinese brand:&#xD;&#xA;https: //producto.mercadolivre.com.br...18dc4fd046bb235b6ae5a022409fd921&amp;noIndex=true&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these two would be best for the firewall? Does it have much difference of performance PCI-Express card for PCI Common?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also accepting suggestions from other boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28384" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8848" RevisionGUID="8658a9e3-db1e-452a-a5d3-36c9ccf860ff" CreationDate="2018-02-15T14:00:41.783" UserId="7894" Text="Network card for motherboard Pine Row" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28385" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8848" RevisionGUID="8658a9e3-db1e-452a-a5d3-36c9ccf860ff" CreationDate="2018-02-15T14:00:41.783" UserId="7894" Text="&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28394" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="6843" RevisionGUID="c19034bd-79c9-40a6-a72e-6b185ea4f466" CreationDate="2018-02-15T20:50:17.437" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8777" RevisionGUID="3d69e52e-186f-4188-a3ec-9254f6fc2ee5" CreationDate="2018-02-15T21:12:00.330" UserId="4043" Comment="edited meters to feet in vive roomscale area" Text="I'll open by saying I am not an authority on VR tech nor do I follow the scene as a hobby. I own an HTC Vive and have used a Rift once or twice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;TL;DR: I love my Vive, I'd spend the money above the Rift to get it, but that's not the right choice for everyone. Promising tech is on the horizon. Promising options on both the lower and higher budget ends outside of the Rift and Vive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oculus Rift:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheapest by a mile (unless you also consider the newer WMR devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Same resolution as Vive (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Lighter, more ergonomic controllers&#xD;&#xA; - Many say it is more comfortable than the Vive, I'd say it is about the same. Head shape will be the main factor here so try both if you can.&#xD;&#xA; - Perfectly acceptable tracking&#xD;&#xA; - Out-of-the-box integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More space for googly eyes on the front without disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not set up for room-scale tracking out of the box (1-2 addtl tracker(s) needed @ $60 each depending on shape of your game area)&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller theoretical supported roomscale area size&#xD;&#xA; - Lower FOV than Vive (100 vs 110)&#xD;&#xA; - Closed game ecosystem; there are very easy workarounds but it is an extra step&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly lower PPI than Vive&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller accessory market (but they are there!)&#xD;&#xA; - (Obviously subjective) Owned by Facebook&#xD;&#xA; - No front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a ton of USB ports (one for headset, one for each tracking cam)&#xD;&#xA; - Shorter cable than Vive (4m vs 5m (+1 from link box))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HTC Vive:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;*Pro:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same Resolution as Rift (1080 x 1200 per eye)&#xD;&#xA; - Imperceptibly higher PPI&#xD;&#xA; - Higher FOV than Rift (110 vs 100)&#xD;&#xA; - Front camera&#xD;&#xA; - Fewer ports on PC needed (just HDMI/DP and one USB)&#xD;&#xA; - Open game ecosystem (can play Rift games with one addtl step [ReVive])&#xD;&#xA; - Longer cable than Rift (5m (+1 from link box) vs 4m)&#xD;&#xA; - Best tracking in the industry using Lighthouses which only need to be supplied power, not connected to PC in any way&#xD;&#xA; - Richer accessory market (forehead fans, upgraded face pads like leather and velour, Deluxe Audio Strap, Vive Trackers to add more objects in VR, etc)&#xD;&#xA; - Larger supported room-scale area (v1 Lighthouses can do 20' x 20' without significant loss in tracking. v2 purported to be capable of 30' x 30')&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Con:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Twice the price of Rift (gap narrows as Rift is set up for room-scale)&#xD;&#xA; - Heavier headset and controllers (I personally like the bulkier controllers, they add a sense of presence for whatever you are holding in game)&#xD;&#xA; - $100 Deluxe Audio Strap to get comparable integrated headphones as those that come with Rift (could be seen as a positive if you have nice headphones you wanted to use anyway, there is a 3.5mm jack right on the headset you can hook into)&#xD;&#xA; - (Subjective) Less comfortable than Rift although both have a wide range of face pads to suit your needs.&#xD;&#xA; - Must be careful where googly eyes are placed to avoid disturbing tracking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Additional Vive Info:*&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;HTC recently announced their Vive Pro which introduces a number of feature additions and upgrades:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OOTB integrated headphones&#xD;&#xA; - More ergonomic head mounting solution&#xD;&#xA; - 78% higher resolution (about 32% increased PPI)&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 wands&#xD;&#xA; - Gen 2 lighthouses&#xD;&#xA; - Dual front cameras (dont worry, plenty of room for googly eyes)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMD-only (upgrade your current Vive kit, rumors of a trade-in program) scheduled for Q1 2018 (next 2 months or so) and the full kit scheduled for a Q3 release. Prices not yet confirmed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PIMAX:&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;I'll be honest on this one, I haven't looked terribly hard into it. I try not to get too invested in a product until I see a consumer-ready version and with Pimax they are 100% not ready for consumers. I've heard the bump in resolution (which is certainly *not* 8k, it is 4k for each eye which is half as many pixels as 8k) is something to behold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Pimax videos and right now it sounds like the consensus is that the 200 FOV is incredible, the resolution is incredible, but the tracking is still far behind its contemporaries, and price is yet to be confirmed. Hopefully someone who follows this story closer can correct me here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally won't bother considering the Pimax until it has been in consumer rotation for a little while, but do some research as the tech is pretty impressive. And you can look like a bug person.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Mixed Reality (WMR):&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;Another category I don't have much experience with but from what I have read this market segment is very promising. Compared to the Rift and Vive, most of these headsets are very affordable and boast a _higher_ resolution and PPI. I'm not sure how broad the game support is but I know people have played some popular Vive games without much issue at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the biggest pros for the WMR headsets is their &quot;plug-in-and-go&quot; style of inside-out tracking. This means that there are no external tracking devices that must be arranged in/around your play area. The limitations of this are that if your controllers are out of view of the tracking cameras on the headset they can still be tracked but only using the accelerometer, i.e. they must keep moving to be tracked. I've heard this causes problems in games that use &quot;utility belt&quot; style inventory systems where you otherwise would be able to interact with certain game features more naturally." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28404" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="c43732d2-b020-485c-af95-7bd7bd25a851" CreationDate="2018-02-16T07:48:28.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28405" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="9deda353-00f0-40c5-8e21-d9d3c48ea942" CreationDate="2018-02-16T12:48:35.547" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8852" RevisionGUID="5e70f3cc-dbb6-4873-b7e2-adddea3fcb80" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:11:16.073" UserId="7897" Text="I've been looking around a bit, and first one note about the problem with bluetooth quality: The standard only supports either stereo music _or_ mono plus microphone (I think I even found this explained somewhere on http://superuser.com). Anyway, so far I've found the following two candidates, coincidentally all from SteelSeries (no, I am not affiliated, apparently they just _are_ good):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The [SteelSeries Siberia 840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840) can be used both wired (full quality, not using bluetooth) and wireless, has two battery packs for quick exchange and recharge, _and_ additional bluetooth connectivity. Obviously that comes at a price around 300$&#xD;&#xA;* The [Arcits 3 Bluetooth](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-3-bluetooth) is probably what you're actually looking for, wired but with bluetooth support, and from its description apparently even working synchronously (I'm not sure if bluetooth still works with wires disconnected, but why else would a battery be included?). At ~150€ it's also much cheaper than the Siberia 840. Just remember with bluetooth you cannot use the microphone _and_ have stereo quality at the same time (though the description suggests you can listen to stereo quality over wire _and_ use the mono+microphone bluetooth in parallel)&#xD;&#xA;* The [Arctis 7](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-7) can be used wired and wireless, but unfortunately it lacks bluetoth. But maybe bluetooth is not what you actually wanted, but rather wireless in general. The disadvantage is it only works via USB in wireless mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8853" RevisionGUID="57627ae9-1a5c-4110-a987-5ac1d878f08b" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:24:06.720" UserId="7897" Text="Currently we're using two old RF headphones with a two-channel switch to easily switch between our two PCs and the TV (two channels are enough since not all three devices are used at the same time). I'd like to replace that with a) higher quality transmission and b) add a microphone to replace the table-bound wired separate Mic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first thought was &quot;bluetooth&quot;, especially with multipoint's claimed simple switching. But meanwhile I read that bluetooth cannot provide Stereo quality _and_ use the microphone at the same time, so that's not an option. After searching some more, the most interesting options are SteelSeries' [Arctis 7](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-7) (but since the transmitter requires a USB port this won't work with the TV's 3.5mm output) and the [Siberia 800](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-800) or [840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840) (basically the 800+bluetooth). Leaving the high price aside, I cannot find any information about supporting and switching between multiple transmitters. Since one PC is actually nearby the TV, one 840's transmitter can probably connected to both of these, but I'm still wondering about the second transmitter and how easily the headsets can switch to the other transmitter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in summary I'm looking for the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 2 (or 3) wireless headsets (i.e. including Microphones)&#xD;&#xA;* 3 transmitters, one of which must use 3.5mm&#xD;&#xA;* easy switching between the transmitter&#xD;&#xA;* optionally bluetooth, and preferably more modern than RF though the simple two-channel switch had its benefits" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28409" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8853" RevisionGUID="57627ae9-1a5c-4110-a987-5ac1d878f08b" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:24:06.720" UserId="7897" Text="Multiple headsets, multiple sources, easy switching" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28410" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8853" RevisionGUID="57627ae9-1a5c-4110-a987-5ac1d878f08b" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:24:06.720" UserId="7897" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8854" RevisionGUID="e33c5801-cfef-4458-84ff-20a770b9a943" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:28:07.230" UserId="7897" Text="First of all, bluetooth won't provide high quality sound _and_ using the microphone by its standard. From my research I think the [SteelSeries Sibera 840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840) might be a good match, it can be used with most consoles and PCs and includes bluetooth. The catch is it's no earbuds, but then again I doubt you could get proper surround sound from buds..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8855" RevisionGUID="93af57f9-8c21-43a3-a309-0d05b08de7df" CreationDate="2018-02-16T14:32:19.843" UserId="7897" Text="I've been looking around a bit, so far I've found the following two candidates, coincidentally all from SteelSeries (no, I am not affiliated, apparently they just _are_ good):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The [SteelSeries Siberia 840](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840) can be used both wired (full quality, not using bluetooth) and wireless, has two battery packs for quick exchange and recharge, _and_ additional bluetooth connectivity. Obviously that comes at a price around 300$. Actually there also is the [800](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-800) without bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;* The [Arctis 7](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-7) can be used wired and wireless, but it lacks bluetoth. The disadvantage is it only works via USB in wireless mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28418" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="86674949-d69a-41a3-bd14-e5a6a5df0d54" CreationDate="2018-02-17T14:53:05.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28422" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="a9355ceb-898d-4b9f-b59d-724c65c98e99" CreationDate="2018-02-18T04:55:47.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28423" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8857" RevisionGUID="c52ad1e6-20bc-4b80-afad-e37cf64f8fa5" CreationDate="2018-02-18T09:38:49.113" UserId="4786" Text="I am hunting for a good bang-for-buck workstation laptop for a friend of mine, he is looking to retire his trusty laptop of 3 years, with a new laptop with a much better GPU. He is a civil and a mechanical engineer, so I would figure he would be designing build support systems, walls and other complex mesh objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He uses AutoCAD, CAD, Autodesk, TurboCAD, 3DS Maya and Meshmixer in his line of work. With this in mind, I found two laptops that are within his budget of 2200USD on eBay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the specs of the first one --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - MSI WE72 7RJ&#xD;&#xA; - Core i7 7700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB DDR4 RAM @ 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Quadro M2200 4GB&#xD;&#xA; - 512GB SATA SSD with a 1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive.&#xD;&#xA; - Listed Price - 1900 USD Including Shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And here is the specs of the next laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Asus ROG GL702VI-WB74&#xD;&#xA; - Core i7 7700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB DDR4 RAM @ 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 1080 8GB Max-Q&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB NVMe SSD with a 1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Listed Price - 2190 USD Including Shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would have figured get the GTX 1080 Laptop, as it has more CUDA Cores, more VRAM and a higher clock speed then the Quadro Card, but the GTX 1080 Laptop is optimized for high-end gaming performance, and not CAD Work. But the Quadro is optimized for workstation usage, and should out perform the 1080 in these types of workloads, right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did a quick Google search, but that didn't yield the results I was hoping for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, which of the two laptops would you recommend for my friend here, and why? If you have a better recommendation than these two laptops that I have listed, please don't hesitate to mention it. I will take all the help I can get!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side note and completely irrelevant, I tried convincing him to build a desktop workstation with a better Quadro GPU locally for the same amount, but he insisted that it be a workstation laptop, as he jets around the world and the country on work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28424" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8857" RevisionGUID="c52ad1e6-20bc-4b80-afad-e37cf64f8fa5" CreationDate="2018-02-18T09:38:49.113" UserId="4786" Text="Quadro M2200 vs GTX 1080 Workstation Laptop for AutoCAD and 3DS Maya?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28425" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8857" RevisionGUID="c52ad1e6-20bc-4b80-afad-e37cf64f8fa5" CreationDate="2018-02-18T09:38:49.113" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8858" RevisionGUID="e0a4e188-b92e-4577-b68e-0e02ba76ea1b" CreationDate="2018-02-18T15:12:53.373" UserId="5440" Text="Definitely the GTX 1080!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know benchmarks aren't always showing the whole picture but when the benchmarks show 4 times the performance on a card it is obvious which one is better, for any task whatsoever. In [Videocard Benchmarks][1] it is a difference between 3376 for the Quadro M2200 and 12185 for the 1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While Quadros have some benefits in workstation kind of devices since they are specifically targeted for these kinds of workloads, but not when you compare one of the top latest GTX cards to a mid (if now lower) range and older generation Quadro (you wouldn't even find a lot of &quot;vs.&quot; articles online about these two, since the M2200 is compared which much lower-end GTXs.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3732&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3502" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28434" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8860" RevisionGUID="256dfe2b-8324-4533-8727-9e3d119f6709" CreationDate="2018-02-19T03:15:35.323" UserId="5449" Text="So I it baffles me why I haven't been able to find one yet that has great reviews but I found this one online that seems like it should work.  As a working although clunky solution you should be able to use the following [USB C Hub][1] and then plug you USB C to 3.5mm adapter into it.  It may depend on your device though ultimately.  The reviews says it works for the Pixel and HTC 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0R1F1M/ref=asc_df_B01N0R1F1M5096080?smid=AYY1GD5QDE8D3&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;creative=395129&amp;creativeASIN=B01N0R1F1M&amp;tag=androidcentral00-20&amp;ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU5912585YYw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8860" RevisionGUID="694eb0db-793b-4e4d-a5cb-4493bad09b69" CreationDate="2018-02-19T03:35:56.353" UserId="5449" Comment="added 136 characters in body" Text="So I it baffles me why I haven't been able to find one yet that has great reviews but I found this one online that seems like it should work.  As a working although clunky solution you should be able to use the following [USB C Hub][1] and then plug you USB C to 3.5mm adapter into it.  It may depend on your device though ultimately.  The reviews says it works for the Pixel and HTC 10.  [This ones was reviews were so bad I don't it is worth buying](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5LRBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_Iop-zbCRFEM9Z).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0R1F1M/ref=asc_df_B01N0R1F1M5096080?smid=AYY1GD5QDE8D3&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;creative=395129&amp;creativeASIN=B01N0R1F1M&amp;tag=androidcentral00-20&amp;ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU5912585YYw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28443" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="da431490-da25-444e-b85d-331e2e83e047" CreationDate="2018-02-19T12:17:41.013" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8862" RevisionGUID="0f4b62c0-77ff-40ff-bbd9-d73269a26f0f" CreationDate="2018-02-19T15:02:57.830" UserId="1776" Text="I am looking for a hard disk/SSD/NAS with both these interfaces:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Thunderbolt 3&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet, 1 GbE or 10 GbE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I only found TB+USB and Eth+USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the combination I am looking for exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28445" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8862" RevisionGUID="0f4b62c0-77ff-40ff-bbd9-d73269a26f0f" CreationDate="2018-02-19T15:02:57.830" UserId="1776" Text="Does this exist: HDD/SSD with Thunderbolt 3 AND Ethernet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28446" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8862" RevisionGUID="0f4b62c0-77ff-40ff-bbd9-d73269a26f0f" CreationDate="2018-02-19T15:02:57.830" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8864" RevisionGUID="8f8b7dce-fcb2-4fef-ae9e-896a8101e252" CreationDate="2018-02-19T19:08:36.637" UserId="7883" Text="I'm looking for which characteristics I need to get a single access point that should serve 1 medium sized room (about 144 sq. meters) and 8 smaller adjacent rooms (about 28 sq meters), separated by 15cm wide walls made of concrete. I was looking [at this][1] and the only thing I gathered was that I needed dual band. The clients would regularly be between 5 and 10, with the possibility of ballowing to 100-120 clients for some hours at any moment of the day. I have a router right now, but its throughput without too much stress (~25 clients) is pitiful given the total speed of the uplink and I need the clients to have reasonable internet speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As characteristics I was thinking of MU-MIMO, 802.11ac standard, but after that, I don't know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need premium features, like NAS, as its main purpose would be as access point and would be hidden away in the roof of the bigger room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/7089/7883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8864" RevisionGUID="8f8b7dce-fcb2-4fef-ae9e-896a8101e252" CreationDate="2018-02-19T19:08:36.637" UserId="7883" Text="Characteristics for wireless access point used in small/medium rooms with high demand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8864" RevisionGUID="8f8b7dce-fcb2-4fef-ae9e-896a8101e252" CreationDate="2018-02-19T19:08:36.637" UserId="7883" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28461" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8865" RevisionGUID="58c92870-90ea-4690-b1b5-603b1c5fe54a" CreationDate="2018-02-20T05:35:46.553" UserId="7907" Text="I am working on **machine learning** project where I used **500K** images to train the model. I am using **lib-linear SVM(Support Vector Machine)** With **HOG (Feature Descriptor)**. HOG take 128X 128 images as input and produces 1096 features. Produced features vector (1096 X 500K) used as input to SVM Model Training.&#xD;&#xA;My Current System Configuration is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Processor : Intel® Core™ i7-6700 CPU @ 3.40GHz × 8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* RAM: 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Graphics: Intel® HD Graphics 530 (Skylake GT2) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;which took around **5 hours and 30 minutes** to train the model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tested the same task on AWS cloud and the results are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Instance Type       CORE        RAM        Training Time In (Hours)            &#xD;&#xA;    c4.8xlarge          36          60         03:39:15&#xD;&#xA;    c5.4xlarge          16          32         01:23:22&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I want to build my own system and I am really confused to select processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I go for Intel® Xeon® Processor E5-2699 v4 with 22 cores OR INTEL® CORE™ i9-7980XE EXTREME EDITION PROCESSOR with 18 cores?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28462" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8865" RevisionGUID="58c92870-90ea-4690-b1b5-603b1c5fe54a" CreationDate="2018-02-20T05:35:46.553" UserId="7907" Text="Machine Learning System Configuration (Hardware Configuration)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28463" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8865" RevisionGUID="58c92870-90ea-4690-b1b5-603b1c5fe54a" CreationDate="2018-02-20T05:35:46.553" UserId="7907" Text="&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8867" RevisionGUID="c9538eaf-8568-4107-b2f1-04c2fa5a740c" CreationDate="2018-02-20T16:32:41.577" UserId="1776" Text="Found, at last: [QNAP TS-453BT3](https://www.qnap.com/en-uk/product/ts-453bt3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="6f38258e-d0aa-4cd5-a6f2-1af4f93d29e7" CreationDate="2018-02-20T18:31:42.210" UserId="1776" Text="I have to set up a NAS storage, with a set of simultaneous opposite requirements. In particular, high speed, lots of space and small budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I do something like:  &#xD;&#xA;- Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up RAID just for the two HDD, and separately for the two SSD (if needed).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a feasible configuration?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28477" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="6f38258e-d0aa-4cd5-a6f2-1af4f93d29e7" CreationDate="2018-02-20T18:31:42.210" UserId="1776" Text="Can I set a 4 disk array with a 2+2 RAID configuration?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28478" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="6f38258e-d0aa-4cd5-a6f2-1af4f93d29e7" CreationDate="2018-02-20T18:31:42.210" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28479" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="6b3afdcb-6241-4e84-a28c-9926c82a5d19" CreationDate="2018-02-20T23:50:28.923" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28480" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="31b3313f-205d-4b50-9815-eab0153e79eb" CreationDate="2018-02-21T00:50:28.957" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28481" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="96e3435c-2501-4c47-97dd-7f554e7df0a0" CreationDate="2018-02-21T01:50:44.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28482" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="7bba41f6-8b36-417d-9d1c-f1ff62a36d22" CreationDate="2018-02-21T02:50:56.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28487" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="11971716-f631-4621-8a6b-ee241c1256a2" CreationDate="2018-02-21T09:55:51.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28494" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="201a16e5-1df9-4bf6-a16c-f12ac02b6b5c" CreationDate="2018-02-21T15:29:13.570" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="b3362e67-1704-4736-bdc1-93650186d975" CreationDate="2018-02-21T17:02:22.403" UserId="1776" Comment="Reformulation" Text="I have to buy a NAS storage, with a set of simultaneous opposite requirements. In particular, high speed, lots of space and small budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I do something like:  &#xD;&#xA;- Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up RAID just for the two HDD, and separately for the two SSD (if needed).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a feasible configuration?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy a single NAS solution to be used for both high performance and large data storage?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28496" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="b3362e67-1704-4736-bdc1-93650186d975" CreationDate="2018-02-21T17:02:22.403" UserId="1776" Comment="Reformulation" Text="I need a NAS solution with conflicting requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="a121ace7-a160-458a-bd17-d7fd9200b8dd" CreationDate="2018-02-22T02:03:17.680" UserId="5449" Text="I drop my iPhone a lot but also need that extended battery. &#xA;&#xA;Is there a life proof that has a battery or that fits on top of the Apple Battery Case?  Alternatively a battery case that is near indestructible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="a121ace7-a160-458a-bd17-d7fd9200b8dd" CreationDate="2018-02-22T02:03:17.680" UserId="5449" Text="Case That Fits on Top of Apple Battery Case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="a121ace7-a160-458a-bd17-d7fd9200b8dd" CreationDate="2018-02-22T02:03:17.680" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="63bab9f6-837c-4ade-9a36-6d92a79a05bc" CreationDate="2018-02-22T05:46:35.643" UserId="7556" Comment="Improved title, added more tags, specified phone model based on previous posts" Text="I drop my iPhone 7 a lot but also need that extended battery. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a life proof that has a battery or that fits on top of the Apple Battery Case?  Alternatively a battery case that is near indestructible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28502" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="63bab9f6-837c-4ade-9a36-6d92a79a05bc" CreationDate="2018-02-22T05:46:35.643" UserId="7556" Comment="Improved title, added more tags, specified phone model based on previous posts" Text="Drop resistant iPhone 7 battery case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28503" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="63bab9f6-837c-4ade-9a36-6d92a79a05bc" CreationDate="2018-02-22T05:46:35.643" UserId="7556" Comment="Improved title, added more tags, specified phone model based on previous posts" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28504" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="63bab9f6-837c-4ade-9a36-6d92a79a05bc" CreationDate="2018-02-22T05:46:35.643" Comment="Proposed by 7556 approved by 8 edit id of 662" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28508" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="3be1991a-d6f2-4707-8bdd-1342c286ba6e" CreationDate="2018-02-22T15:27:52.967" UserId="1776" Comment="Quantified my requirements." Text="I have to buy a NAS storage, with a set of simultaneous opposite requirements. In particular, high speed, lots of space and small budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I do something like:  &#xD;&#xA;- Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up a RAID just for the two HDD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up a separate RAID just for the two SSD (if needed).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a feasible configuration?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy a single NAS solution to be used for both high performance and large data storage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are a few numbers to quantify my requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;- NAS: 4 bays, 10 Gb Ethernet, Thunderbolt 3.  &#xD;&#xA;- HDD: 2, 10 TB each, 7200 rpm, SATA.  &#xD;&#xA;- SSD: 2, 1 TB each, SATA.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="e3f9543a-38b1-46c8-9884-96b93ff8a708" CreationDate="2018-02-22T15:34:27.767" UserId="1776" Comment="Quantified my requirements." Text="I have to buy a NAS storage, with a set of simultaneous opposite requirements. In particular, high speed, lots of space and small budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I do something like:  &#xD;&#xA;- Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up a RAID just for the two HDD.  &#xD;&#xA;- Set up a separate RAID just for the two SSD (if needed).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a feasible configuration?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy a single NAS solution to be used for both high performance and large data storage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are a few numbers to quantify my requirements:  &#xD;&#xA;- NAS: 4 bays, 10 Gb Ethernet, Thunderbolt 3.  &#xD;&#xA;- HDD: 2, 10 TB each, 7200 rpm, SATA.  &#xD;&#xA;- SSD: 2, 1 TB each, SATA.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drives are going to be purchased separately from the NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: £2600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Purpose: store and read video from multiple cameras in real-time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28516" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="75e029f9-71bd-4306-b87d-1c4d6bb81213" CreationDate="2018-02-22T18:16:05.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28517" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="049dbfc4-14ee-4cd7-bebc-6afb5f02479a" CreationDate="2018-02-22T21:16:20.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28518" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8439" RevisionGUID="4b3905c7-13f6-47bd-922e-27046264dec0" CreationDate="2018-02-23T02:16:21.947" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28520" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="b5ceecf6-1506-40aa-bd87-4d64ed1076db" CreationDate="2018-02-23T03:16:21.913" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28524" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="98fcea37-464a-45c3-af69-668c618b7079" CreationDate="2018-02-23T10:27:04.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28526" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="7181c23c-4c39-421c-a023-4f07185d1e0a" CreationDate="2018-02-23T21:27:19.990" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8878" RevisionGUID="fcf02a6a-eea9-4eab-a837-03eefd074034" CreationDate="2018-02-24T00:23:19.127" UserId="5449" Text="So I have decided that the best course of action is to adopt wireless headphones now that the iPhone's headphone jack is gone(and Pixel).  Unfortunately though I need like 10+ battery performance all day.  It also needs a mic although the mic doesn't have to be perfect quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is something like this even possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28530" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8878" RevisionGUID="fcf02a6a-eea9-4eab-a837-03eefd074034" CreationDate="2018-02-24T00:23:19.127" UserId="5449" Text="Long Battery Wireless Headphones With Mic - iPhone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28531" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8878" RevisionGUID="fcf02a6a-eea9-4eab-a837-03eefd074034" CreationDate="2018-02-24T00:23:19.127" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8881" RevisionGUID="5a991546-44e7-457a-a010-8afd8044f27b" CreationDate="2018-02-24T23:08:51.960" UserId="7326" Text="I am building a PC that will be dedicated to game streaming. It will be a secondary PC and it's entire function will be to accept the input from my gaming PC, encode it and upload it to streaming services.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use OBS and stream at 1080p 60fps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking of going with:-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ryzen 1700,&#xD;&#xA;8gb 3200mhz ram (whatever is cheapest),&#xD;&#xA;WD Blue 3TB hard disk (stream will also be saved to disk),&#xD;&#xA;ASRock AB350M motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of that comes to around £450 on Amazon uk. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is that powerful enough to stream at 1080p 60fps, Is it the best hardware choice for the money spend and if it's not what would be better in the same price range.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8881" RevisionGUID="5a991546-44e7-457a-a010-8afd8044f27b" CreationDate="2018-02-24T23:08:51.960" UserId="7326" Text="recommended pc build for dedicated game streaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8881" RevisionGUID="5a991546-44e7-457a-a010-8afd8044f27b" CreationDate="2018-02-24T23:08:51.960" UserId="7326" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8883" RevisionGUID="3d80f173-7e53-4177-aedc-779765bdc062" CreationDate="2018-02-25T02:17:02.083" UserId="7923" Text="I am looking for a speaker for my smartphone. But I don't need it to be portable nor wireless (bluetooth) because I can plug it to the grid and I can connect it to the phone with a regular TRS cable. I just need it to have a good bass. Or a decent bass. I need the speaker to be significantly better than the speaker of my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy something that's not more expensive than $50 or maximum $60&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed the Logitech Z50 1.0 Speaker (out of stock at NewEgg). Some vendors (like for example NewEgg) don't even have the 1.0 in the list of speakers configuration - you can chose from 2.0, 2.1, 3.1, 4.1, 5.1 etc - but there is no option to chose the 1.0 speakers. Also the searching reviews for 1.0 speakers finds mostly reviews about bluetooth speakers. It doesn't look extremely easy to find alternatives for a plain 1.0 speaker&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28550" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8883" RevisionGUID="3d80f173-7e53-4177-aedc-779765bdc062" CreationDate="2018-02-25T02:17:02.083" UserId="7923" Text="Wired, 1.0 speaker with good bass" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28551" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8883" RevisionGUID="3d80f173-7e53-4177-aedc-779765bdc062" CreationDate="2018-02-25T02:17:02.083" UserId="7923" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28556" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="a1f8da08-f97e-4c49-8fdd-3cf25d11556a" CreationDate="2018-02-25T14:43:11.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28562" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4358" RevisionGUID="84f8c6aa-6076-4d7a-a6b5-3faa04b183aa" CreationDate="2018-02-26T03:53:43.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28579" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8881" RevisionGUID="92aba02a-7d88-4deb-91d7-edb7006f38a8" CreationDate="2018-02-26T12:34:37.683" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28583" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8889" RevisionGUID="e81df27a-8ee0-4b86-a3bc-6daa6af47757" CreationDate="2018-02-26T15:08:56.633" UserId="4043" Text="In Ear&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;For their price the **[Apple Airpods][1]** ($159) really are at the top of their market segment. You'll get the in-ear design you prefer and 3-5 hours of listening time per charge and another 3-5 hours after placing them in the charging case for just 15 minutes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being an iPhone user you also benefit from features that an Android user would not, such as the simple pairing (W2 chip functionality) and, for lack of a better name, the &quot;take one of them out of your ear to pause music&quot; functionality. Because these do not use silicone ear inserts the fit on these will be subject to the shape of your ears. If the earpods that came with your phone fit you well then these will also, the form factor is exactly the same. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The primary competition for this product are going to be the **[Google Pixelbuds][2]**, same price ($159) and battery specs but these are not fully wireless (buds connected to one another by wire) and getting them into and out of the charging case is a little finnicky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another notable mention in this price range is the **[Jaybird Run][3]**, at $179.99 retail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something different&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;I've done some window-shopping and although I don't think I'll ever have the cash to splurge on them, the **[Sennheiser MX-550-X][4]** bluetooth headphones are an interesting offering. Although these tout about 8 hours of battery life (charged via micro usb) the fairly unique feature of these are that the battery is replaceable, so theoretically you can have all the nice noise cancelling features and the incredible sound-stage we have come to expect from Sennheiser over-ear headphones, and you can simply carry extra batteries to swap when needed. There's a lot more cool tech on these so if you really are looking for a premier headphone check it out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the headphones above are fully featured for a smartphone and include some form of media control on the headphones physically, as well as a microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.google.com/us/product/google_pixel_buds?hl=en-US&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://jaybirdsport.com/en-us/run-true-wireless-sport-headphones.html#985-000688&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-MM-550-X-Bluetooth-Headphones/dp/B0076Z78AM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8890" RevisionGUID="f375f008-56cd-46c1-8e53-d6a67d620667" CreationDate="2018-02-26T15:36:31.583" UserId="8" Text="## Over Ear&#xD;&#xA;I've got the **[LinkWitz Casque Bluetooth](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071G837F4)** headphones, which are an over-ear pair of wireless headphones with passive noise cancelling and a microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![LinkWitz Casque Bluetooth over-ear headphones in black](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/712ymrouzzL._SX522_.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They run on a rechargeable battery (charges via microUSB - comes with a charging cable, though you probably already have one) that I've found lasts about 12-15 hours of regular but intermittent use. I imagine continuous use would see more like 8-10 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The microphone is reasonable quality - it's nestled in among the controls on the left-hand side - good enough for clear voice calls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audio quality feels a little distant, slightly lacking in mid-range frequencies, but bass response is excellent and a system equalizer can easily clean up the mid-ranges without much adjustment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only issue you may have with them is the earphone size - the inner diameter is just 30mm, so you do need relatively small ears for them to fit comfortably over the top.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, though, they're good headphones. I got mine on sale for around £25, but the RRP is around £80." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28585" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8891" RevisionGUID="8a8802f7-47b1-4e4c-bb75-ceb80a546a19" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:36:27.140" UserId="7934" Text="I am looking for a video capture device that can successfully capture 240 &amp; 480 (p and i) signals properly.  I am not worried about LAG too much because I will be splitting signals to production monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help you can give would be much appreciated.  It really does seem 240 and 480 are going out the window and almost no capture devices support them anymore." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28586" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8891" RevisionGUID="8a8802f7-47b1-4e4c-bb75-ceb80a546a19" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:36:27.140" UserId="7934" Text="RGB Analog Video Capture" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28587" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8891" RevisionGUID="8a8802f7-47b1-4e4c-bb75-ceb80a546a19" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:36:27.140" UserId="7934" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8892" RevisionGUID="527adeba-5573-419c-8d58-2546167740bc" CreationDate="2018-02-27T08:22:59.470" UserId="6721" Text="I am searching for a ATX case with proper mouting holes for the new high-capacity 3.5' HDDs. (seagate archive 8TB). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All atx cases have mounting holes only for middle screws and cannot properly mount these HDDs with 4 screws.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not interested in alternative mounting like sleds,caddies,rubber bands etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need at least 6 mounting positions for 6 HDDs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![hdd without middle holes for screws][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTYoc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Can anyone recommend an ATX case which has proper holes for screws for 6 drives?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8892" RevisionGUID="527adeba-5573-419c-8d58-2546167740bc" CreationDate="2018-02-27T08:22:59.470" UserId="6721" Text="ATX case with far holes for 3.5' HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8892" RevisionGUID="527adeba-5573-419c-8d58-2546167740bc" CreationDate="2018-02-27T08:22:59.470" UserId="6721" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8893" RevisionGUID="0f96bfaf-1d48-4c82-90c6-61425850a818" CreationDate="2018-02-27T12:25:17.797" UserId="7936" Text=" Found it at the office and I am curious about it. What is this cable used for?&#xA;Thanks.&#xA;&#xA;It doesn't let me upload the image, so here is the link: &#xA;&#xA;https://i.imgur.com/gf34MxK.jpg&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8893" RevisionGUID="0f96bfaf-1d48-4c82-90c6-61425850a818" CreationDate="2018-02-27T12:25:17.797" UserId="7936" Text="Identify this cable!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8893" RevisionGUID="0f96bfaf-1d48-4c82-90c6-61425850a818" CreationDate="2018-02-27T12:25:17.797" UserId="7936" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28595" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5841" RevisionGUID="a75abd3e-25e0-429f-8305-14c461e29ef8" CreationDate="2018-02-27T19:06:47.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28596" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8894" RevisionGUID="4465854c-421e-4356-87ab-383d09ab9274" CreationDate="2018-02-27T19:11:01.920" UserId="6089" Text="It would be a pulse sensor to read one's pulse rate while exercising by the transmission of ultraviolet light or maybe infrared light through the skin to the receptor on the opposite side. It clips to one's fingertip. As blood flows through the smaller vessels, the light is alternately blocked and allowed to pass, providing appropriate data for the device into which it is connected." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28597" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8893" RevisionGUID="9d9f0a7d-4776-474f-8713-123a5b1ac7ef" CreationDate="2018-02-27T19:14:09.593" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28601" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="87531ca8-e776-49cc-99f2-b47dda34f5b1" CreationDate="2018-02-27T22:06:39.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28606" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="a70ff59c-5326-41f3-99ec-8af5076e8958" CreationDate="2018-02-28T12:08:05.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28607" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="86312ef5-514b-4881-8d98-8a18fc37271b" CreationDate="2018-02-28T13:08:07.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28608" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="8869" RevisionGUID="296c9edc-dbe2-445a-9f3b-6c2b0345ce07" CreationDate="2018-02-28T16:30:13.560" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:476,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RubyJunk&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28609" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6712" RevisionGUID="248bde27-3486-4c8b-bfaa-dc0afaacd9af" CreationDate="2018-02-28T17:02:59.687" UserId="5449" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="It appears that this isn't possible.  So I tested the device I bought below and it doesn't work with cd drives.  I am not sure why.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This appears to work but only works on the laptop cd drives.  Which means the power would be a problem on a desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB 2.0 to 7+6 13Pin Slimline SATA Laptop CD/DVD Rom Optical Drive Adapter Cable Black/White&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/13Pin-Slimline-Laptop-Optical-Adapter/dp/B00C574Q5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485286747&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=external+cd+drive+with+sata" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28610" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8860" RevisionGUID="e005f32f-dfaf-4a5e-9570-d3615052a354" CreationDate="2018-02-28T17:03:56.840" UserId="5449" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="So I it baffles me why I haven't been able to find one yet that has great reviews but I found this one online that seems like it should work.  As a working although clunky solution you should be able to use the following [USB C Hub][1] and then plug you USB C to 3.5mm adapter into it.  It may depend on your device though ultimately.  The reviews says it works for the Pixel and HTC 10.  [This ones was reviews were so bad I don't think it is worth buying](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5LRBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_Iop-zbCRFEM9Z).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0R1F1M/ref=asc_df_B01N0R1F1M5096080?smid=AYY1GD5QDE8D3&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;creative=395129&amp;creativeASIN=B01N0R1F1M&amp;tag=androidcentral00-20&amp;ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU5912585YYw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28611" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6711" RevisionGUID="674fa6c5-1f9d-43a9-b694-dcb88142522b" CreationDate="2018-02-28T17:04:09.903" UserId="5449" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="So I use this USB to Sata + Power converter to hook up drives to my laptop like so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works for hard drives but not cd drives.&#xD;&#xA;I would like to be able to hot swap the same drive between a desktop and laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one for CD drives so it can be hot swapped between sata and usb?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEslim.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/b43W5m.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28612" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="4aaa70b0-f68a-4a94-8815-b4a396801098" CreationDate="2018-02-28T21:11:22.040" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28613" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="801f6c06-cbd4-4250-a157-f095835fa816" CreationDate="2018-02-28T22:13:06.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28614" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8024" RevisionGUID="a1932eeb-0af0-44a2-b82b-53e6735778ab" CreationDate="2018-02-28T23:13:08.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8896" RevisionGUID="387cc3ab-4ec7-4541-9987-404cca3ae771" CreationDate="2018-03-01T11:36:09.297" UserId="7945" Text="I’m looking for a TRUE usb 3.0 crossover switch.. I know there are peripheral switches which take 1 input and share peripherals on the other side. What I’m looking for is a path selector where I have 2 usb cables coming in InA and InB and two going out, outA and outB. When I switch I want cable inA to be routed to outB and cable inB to be routed to outA. Then when I switch again, I want inA to be routed to outA and inB to be routed to outB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this makes sense...what I’m trying to do is switch two laptops between two different port replicators at the click of a button." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28622" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8896" RevisionGUID="387cc3ab-4ec7-4541-9987-404cca3ae771" CreationDate="2018-03-01T11:36:09.297" UserId="7945" Text="True USB 3.0 crossover switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28623" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8896" RevisionGUID="387cc3ab-4ec7-4541-9987-404cca3ae771" CreationDate="2018-03-01T11:36:09.297" UserId="7945" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28626" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="6235c7b2-8bc5-40ca-9162-7a0c074fbd71" CreationDate="2018-03-01T19:15:06.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28630" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8137" RevisionGUID="6f39d788-aced-4774-bc5d-47739e44bf34" CreationDate="2018-03-01T21:18:13.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="59036d64-0a03-4efd-bbce-de58636c8bbd" CreationDate="2018-03-01T23:22:01.023" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="952fe91a-7fda-4292-a7fe-f49bdd4ee930" CreationDate="2018-03-02T11:56:31.320" UserId="7555" Text="Apparently this CPU is a bad combination with my GPU; I have been told that they will not work together. These are the main parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (No overclocking so do I need CPU cooler separate?)&#xD;&#xA; 2. MSI - A320M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; 3. Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB G1 Gaming Video Card&#xD;&#xA; 4. Areocool P7 C1 Case&#xD;&#xA; 5. EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There will no intense programming or video processing; I will use the PC for some games here and there, but it will only be doing regular &quot;home&quot; tasks everyday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, anyone who states a price for an item, mention the currency you're talking about. If it is USD or something, then say so, for the benefit of anyone reading this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28640" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="952fe91a-7fda-4292-a7fe-f49bdd4ee930" CreationDate="2018-03-02T11:56:31.320" UserId="7555" Text="Does this CPU fit with the GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28641" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="952fe91a-7fda-4292-a7fe-f49bdd4ee930" CreationDate="2018-03-02T11:56:31.320" UserId="7555" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8900" RevisionGUID="b8a26857-a01b-47cd-953e-1d003f48f468" CreationDate="2018-03-02T15:50:08.310" UserId="6475" Text="&gt;Apparently this CPU is a bad combination with my GPU; I have been told that they will not work together. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#That CPU and GPU will work together just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU's are designed to be compatible with most CPU architectures, including offerings from Intel and AMD. Ryzen is AMD's new platform, and just like any new release there were some kinks to work out in regard to memory management and driver / system compatibility. Ryzen CPU's have been out for a while, so as far as I know those issues are all resolved. I have several friends and co-workers running Ryzen systems, running a mix of GPU's from both Nvidia and AMD. No major or irregular problems reported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;No overclocking so do I need CPU cooler separate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#You do not need an aftermarket cooler for any Ryzen CPU if you're not overclocking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if you are overclocking, the &quot;Spire&quot; cooler series (which come stock with Ryzen chips) are very good air coolers. I'd recommend you save your cash and use the stock cooler. You can always buy a big fancy one later if you end up wanting to do extreme overclocking down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;There will no intense programming or video processing; I will use the PC for some games here and there, but it will only be doing regular &quot;home&quot; tasks everyday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I know this part wasn't really a question, but I do have a recommendation or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, the CPU you're getting is probably overkill for  your goals. It offers some future proofing and flexibility, but as @SiXandSeven8ths mentioned already in the comments you'd probably get equivalent use from a Ryzen 5 series unless you're going to be doing VR gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, if you do go with the Ryzen 7 1700, get the Ryzen 7 1700x instead. They're the same price, but the 1700x is a better &quot;binned&quot; chip. This means it'll be faster and more stable on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;www.pcpartpicker.com is a good ressource to use. I've got your build started for you at the following link:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gyy23b&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with the build!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28644" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="0f989d0f-1652-4815-8947-1a2aeccd0976" CreationDate="2018-03-02T20:29:50.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28645" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="756505b7-3a43-4a6d-adc9-d81c9c9d4db1" CreationDate="2018-03-02T21:29:51.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="37efa0b9-e829-4d2f-9758-56a32eba83ef" CreationDate="2018-03-02T21:45:19.020" UserId="7555" Comment="added 182 characters in body" Text="Apparently this CPU is a bad combination with my GPU; I have been told that they will not work together. These are the main parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (No overclocking so do I need CPU cooler separate?)&#xD;&#xA; 2. MSI - A320M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; 3. Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB G1 Gaming Video Card&#xD;&#xA; 4. Areocool P7 C1 Case&#xD;&#xA; 5. EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There will no intense programming or video processing; I will use the PC for some games here and there, but it will only be doing regular &quot;home&quot; tasks everyday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, anyone who states a price for an item, mention the currency you're talking about. If it is USD or something, then say so, for the benefit of anyone reading this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best AM4 motherboard to get? The MSI Bazooka is a good option, but it is kind of reddish, and I am going for a black/blue set up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28650" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="37f763dc-881b-426e-8259-cb5223ebc788" CreationDate="2018-03-03T00:30:08.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28651" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="5379745f-3b6e-4a77-9e4d-1ed803dfcbeb" CreationDate="2018-03-03T01:21:49.097" UserId="7555" Comment="added 358 characters in body" Text="Apparently this CPU is a bad combination with my GPU; I have been told that they will not work together. These are the main parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (No overclocking so do I need CPU cooler separate?)&#xD;&#xA; 2. MSI - A320M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; 3. Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB G1 Gaming Video Card&#xD;&#xA; 4. Areocool P7 C1 Case&#xD;&#xA; 5. EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There will no intense programming or video processing; I will use the PC for some games here and there, but it will only be doing regular &quot;home&quot; tasks everyday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, anyone who states a price for an item, mention the currency you're talking about. If it is USD or something, then say so, for the benefit of anyone reading this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____________________&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best AM4 motherboard to get? The MSI Bazooka is a good option, but it is kind of reddish, and I am going for a black/blue set up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT 2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I considered jcam3's answer, and refined my build. Remaining is one concern: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CRYORIG C7 compatibility, and whether it has its own LED's (because I can't find that info about it). I don't want it to have LED's, so if it does, is there a better recommendation? [**Here is the final link**](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/cBkrHh)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28656" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="f7f53f95-7ab2-4a52-91ef-f08ea6617cdf" CreationDate="2018-03-03T08:30:09.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28657" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="bb4b1904-4383-4db2-9a35-eb8dfffa25cd" CreationDate="2018-03-03T10:30:10.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28667" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="c48ebbea-d607-4dd8-8117-98574ad3e5e8" CreationDate="2018-03-04T04:41:35.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28668" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="cc3fb7c5-62ef-472e-9195-b8cc3dc7dfd3" CreationDate="2018-03-04T05:42:34.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28669" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="6b63c8d1-d09c-4ee4-8de2-2cff05020cc9" CreationDate="2018-03-04T08:44:27.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28673" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="45efbcd4-2a61-4958-b9c0-2059c1322779" CreationDate="2018-03-04T19:50:14.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28674" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="4d604137-eaaf-4bac-b786-e42171f4f630" CreationDate="2018-03-05T00:50:17.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28675" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="9d59b316-ea4d-452a-b34f-cbbf94635460" CreationDate="2018-03-05T07:50:19.703" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8906" RevisionGUID="42003247-8535-4fc4-82a8-ee50e6af8ec5" CreationDate="2018-03-05T15:28:10.413" UserId="1800" Text="In the market for a new laptop to replace my aged machine. As I understand it, at this price range and requirements. I'm probably best off going for an i3 processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- An SSD to run the operating system&#xD;&#xA;- A large (750GB plus) standard HDD for storage&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the models in this price range come with 4GB RAM which seems woefully insufficient to me. Many also offer only one drive, instead of separate SSD and HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-have:&#xD;&#xA;- Fairly portable (light, with good battery time)&#xD;&#xA;- Basic gaming &amp; image editing performance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want a 2-in-1 tablet-style machine - I'd want something larger and more robust than that.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8906" RevisionGUID="42003247-8535-4fc4-82a8-ee50e6af8ec5" CreationDate="2018-03-05T15:28:10.413" UserId="1800" Text="Good value laptop for home office use at around £500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8906" RevisionGUID="42003247-8535-4fc4-82a8-ee50e6af8ec5" CreationDate="2018-03-05T15:28:10.413" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28683" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="0ecefdb3-3857-4203-83da-61833c4595fa" CreationDate="2018-03-05T17:50:26.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28684" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8908" RevisionGUID="96394c59-0cb8-46f4-97fe-c2feaf419a97" CreationDate="2018-03-05T18:12:00.013" UserId="7957" Text="If you're still looking for recommendations, I'd take a look at the [MSI Radeon RX 560 - 1024 4GB AERO][1] video card. If you're still using Manjaro (the best!) then this would be the simplest solution for you. You can use the open-source drivers built into the kernel and get fantastic performance, meaning all you do is put it in your PCIe slot and power it up. It also supports up to 3 displays (it has 1 HDMI, 1 DisplayPort, and 1 DVI-D) and will support up to 4K resolutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nVidia equivalent is the [EVGA GTX 1050][2] which is about $30 or so more. There are 2 main drawbacks with this card. 1) it requires a 6-pin PCIe power connector from your power supply. If you have a prebuilt machine, the OEM power supply might not have one. 2) If you're using nVidia graphics cards on Linux you should be using their proprietary, non-free drivers which you will have to update.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given those 2 choices, I'd pick the Radeon due to its inherent simplicity. You'll plug it in, power up, and just go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137124&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487299&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8910" RevisionGUID="d502d840-00d7-4f3a-834a-4e3241b41b4c" CreationDate="2018-03-06T01:46:04.877" UserId="7737" Text="I ended up buying [this][1] which wasn't working either until I disabled secure boot, curious to know if that prevented the other items I tried but I have what I wanted finally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6G5ZGI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8911" RevisionGUID="0c0fb094-e9f5-4ccf-9fbf-c089acdcbfe4" CreationDate="2018-03-06T02:47:20.860" UserId="5440" Text="I think this Acer laptop is worth a look:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**https://www.amazon.co.uk/F5-573G-Notebook-NX-GDAEK-003-Dedicated-Graphics/dp/B06XKBCSSJ**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically ticks all your - very clearly - defined checkboxes. And although Acer is not considered the best manufacturer, being on this budget I don't see anything better for your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; Full HD Screen &#xD;&#xA; - List item&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i3-6100&#xD;&#xA; - 8GB RAM 128G SSD + 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GeForce GTX 950M 4GB Graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8912" RevisionGUID="2e4bea62-70f4-4c32-bd7b-3164778d5efb" CreationDate="2018-03-06T06:14:09.160" UserId="7959" Text="I'm looking for a reasonably cheap network attached storage solution for small business use. I'm not terribly picky about features, but I'd prefer a pre-made option that I don't have to fiddle with excessively. But my biggest requirement is that it must **not** generate hidden index directories throughout its shares.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my experience, this behavior seems rather common among pre-built NAS boxes; my last two (a WD My Book Live and a Synology Diskstation, respectively) have done it, and it's caused no end of problems. The index directories work their way into all sorts of places they shouldn't be...source folders, version control, builds...you name it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, can anyone recommend a model or brand of NAS that is confirmed to not have this terribly annoying behavior?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8912" RevisionGUID="2e4bea62-70f4-4c32-bd7b-3164778d5efb" CreationDate="2018-03-06T06:14:09.160" UserId="7959" Text="NAS Solution that Does Not Generate Index Directories" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8912" RevisionGUID="2e4bea62-70f4-4c32-bd7b-3164778d5efb" CreationDate="2018-03-06T06:14:09.160" UserId="7959" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28695" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="c62497f6-4439-46ce-b022-b3d4865fb3c5" CreationDate="2018-03-06T06:28:09.157" UserId="7555" Comment="67" />
  <row Id="28696" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="30191cf8-6a16-4e4e-9498-3e8684d24df2" CreationDate="2018-03-06T08:53:09.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28697" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8913" RevisionGUID="0de0d8e8-dd78-465a-8218-3e86c7960c9d" CreationDate="2018-03-06T10:27:03.340" UserId="7960" Text="I've got a small device that reads data off of a thumbdrive. I'd rather not be carrying my thumbdrive back and forth. I thought I remembered a USB drive out there that would connect to your WiFi network and act like a mirror for some folder on your desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a real thing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28698" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8913" RevisionGUID="0de0d8e8-dd78-465a-8218-3e86c7960c9d" CreationDate="2018-03-06T10:27:03.340" UserId="7960" Text="USB Drive that mirrors PC drive via WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28699" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8913" RevisionGUID="0de0d8e8-dd78-465a-8218-3e86c7960c9d" CreationDate="2018-03-06T10:27:03.340" UserId="7960" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28719" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="b7863b63-6144-4e1f-a5a1-2e9029d262f4" CreationDate="2018-03-06T19:53:14.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28720" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="afc3fbfa-f23a-4dea-bba9-eb780a577a4b" CreationDate="2018-03-06T22:53:13.833" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28721" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8900" RevisionGUID="c37c9939-e866-47ab-a6ed-7c64693e2a75" CreationDate="2018-03-06T22:58:07.673" UserId="6475" Comment="added 952 characters in body" Text="&gt;Apparently this CPU is a bad combination with my GPU; I have been told that they will not work together. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#That CPU and GPU will work together just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU's are designed to be compatible with most CPU architectures, including offerings from Intel and AMD. Ryzen is AMD's new platform, and just like any new release there were some kinks to work out in regard to memory management and driver / system compatibility. Ryzen CPU's have been out for a while, so as far as I know those issues are all resolved. I have several friends and co-workers running Ryzen systems, running a mix of GPU's from both Nvidia and AMD. No major or irregular problems reported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;No overclocking so do I need CPU cooler separate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#You do not need an aftermarket cooler for any Ryzen CPU if you're not overclocking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if you are overclocking, the &quot;Spire&quot; cooler series (which come stock with Ryzen chips) are very good air coolers. I'd recommend you save your cash and use the stock cooler. You can always buy a big fancy one later if you end up wanting to do extreme overclocking down the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;There will no intense programming or video processing; I will use the PC for some games here and there, but it will only be doing regular &quot;home&quot; tasks everyday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I know this part wasn't really a question, but I do have a recommendation or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, the CPU you're getting is probably overkill for  your goals. It offers some future proofing and flexibility, but as @SiXandSeven8ths mentioned already in the comments you'd probably get equivalent use from a Ryzen 5 series unless you're going to be doing VR gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, if you do go with the Ryzen 7 1700, get the Ryzen 7 1700x instead. They're the same price, but the 1700x is a better &quot;binned&quot; chip. This means it'll be faster and more stable on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;www.pcpartpicker.com is a good ressource to use. I've got your build started for you at the following link:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gyy23b&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck with the build!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Regarding questions from OP's edits:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the board in your PCPartPicker list a lot. I've had good experiences with ASUS motherboards and from what I've heard they handled the release of DDR4 and the new socket types with minimal speed bumps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CRYORIG C7 cooler will work just fine. It's designed to fit the following sockets according to PCPartPicker:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+, LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't believe it has any LED's, or at least I can't find any pictures or documentation suggesting that it does. Most coolers that *do* feature LED lighting have them installed directly on the fans, which are replaceable anyhow. I'd say that you've got a green light to go ahead and get the C7, as the worst case scenario is replacing an LED enabled fan with a non-LED fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please let me know if you have additional questions, I'll be happy to follow up. Best of luck with the build!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28728" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="ff481236-2578-4234-b557-674c0f16744e" CreationDate="2018-03-06T23:53:13.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28729" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="7da05ecb-6de2-4463-8e73-8972e3768adb" CreationDate="2018-03-07T01:53:13.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28736" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8899" RevisionGUID="7474a8b5-d236-4c1d-8e88-c33e78a93f94" CreationDate="2018-03-07T06:28:10.523" UserId="7555" Comment="67" />
  <row Id="28737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="5228ce96-e2a7-4ca7-ac2e-119d9bd29aa2" CreationDate="2018-03-07T07:53:15.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28740" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="9cf01d1f-da37-4c55-af86-051612a1a857" CreationDate="2018-03-07T18:57:42.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8922" RevisionGUID="be4e2cb9-a2d5-4e2f-8caa-da21782fb114" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:32:39.840" UserId="7974" Text="You can try **Moto E4**, It supports all of your requirements. It has removable battery, OTG support, SD Card slot and 2GB RAM/16GB ROM. You can check its complete specs and available sellers list from [BuyMyPrice][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.buymyprice.com/india/mobile/Moto-E4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28751" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="3bba2277-b13f-40cc-9b24-178a9800a526" CreationDate="2018-03-08T16:00:42.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="4c7163e0-79b2-402c-b45c-f65d81e9f19e" CreationDate="2018-03-08T16:57:04.903" UserId="7976" Text="I'm looking for a unmanaged switch/router that has a single mode fiber port built in. 2-4 RJ45 ports would be fine too. It needs to have an extended temperature range to say -40 degrees F/C (-20 F would likely be fine). Wifi is not necessarily needed, but if it's a router, that would be a bonus...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here's the catch, looking for something cost effective, as most I have seen is in the $600 to $1500 range. and that is quite expensive for residential use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for the help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="4c7163e0-79b2-402c-b45c-f65d81e9f19e" CreationDate="2018-03-08T16:57:04.903" UserId="7976" Text="Hardened (extended temperature range) switch/router with media converter SFP (and optional wifi)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="4c7163e0-79b2-402c-b45c-f65d81e9f19e" CreationDate="2018-03-08T16:57:04.903" UserId="7976" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28756" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="904c505d-e388-499d-a636-b86e014ccf9b" CreationDate="2018-03-08T17:55:07.027" UserId="7976" Comment="clarified request" Text="I'm looking for a router that has a single mode fiber port built in. in addition to the fiber port 2-4 RJ45 ports would be fine too. It needs to have an extended temperature range to say -40 degrees F/C (-20 F would likely be fine). Wifi is not necessarily needed, but if it's a router, that would be a bonus...would definitely entertain one that didn't have fiber.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here's the catch, looking for something cost effective, as most I have seen is in the $600 to $1500 range. and that is quite expensive for residential use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find un-managed switches that are hardened for a reasonable price ($200 or less)...the router thing is what has be searching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for the help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28757" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="904c505d-e388-499d-a636-b86e014ccf9b" CreationDate="2018-03-08T17:55:07.027" UserId="7976" Comment="clarified request" Text="Hardened (extended temperature range) router with media converter SFP (and optional wifi)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="95ab5174-1e1e-4270-9bb7-faff67c91a87" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:01:02.230" UserId="7976" Comment="clarified request" Text="I'm looking for a 4 - 6 port (2-3 might work) router that has an extended temperature range to say -40 degrees F/C (-20 F would likely be fine) that is cost effective. Most I have seen is in the $600 to $1500 range, and that is quite expensive for residential use. BONUS for if it has single mode fiber port (or 2) built in (SFP module need to be added is fine). another optional Bonus is Wifi onboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find un-managed switches that are hardened for a reasonable price ($200 or less)...the router thing is what has be searching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for the help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28759" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8924" RevisionGUID="48a40fb2-b1e7-4dc1-81c2-92645c2226b9" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:09:14.150" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="To charge my Pixel XL.  The supplied cable is too short for my needs.  USB-C to USB-A is viable but I'd need a compatible fast charge adapter as well.  I'm not seeing a whole lot of availability in the 10 foot range, at least not anything from well known manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a 10 foot USB-C to USB-C cable for a Pixel XL?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a 10 foot USB-C to USB-A cable and compatible fast charge adapter for a Pixel XL?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28760" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8924" RevisionGUID="48a40fb2-b1e7-4dc1-81c2-92645c2226b9" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:09:14.150" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="I'm looking for USB-C to USB-C cable that is 10ft long" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28761" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8924" RevisionGUID="48a40fb2-b1e7-4dc1-81c2-92645c2226b9" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:09:14.150" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28762" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="b31ecc64-f269-4f52-8350-daafcea39ebd" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:25:35.310" UserId="7976" Comment="updated request" Text="Hardened (extended temperature range) router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8923" RevisionGUID="b31ecc64-f269-4f52-8350-daafcea39ebd" CreationDate="2018-03-08T18:25:35.310" UserId="7976" Comment="updated request" Text="I'm looking for a 4 - 6 port (2-3 might work) router that has an extended temperature range to say -40 degrees F/C (-20 F would likely be fine) that is cost effective. Most I have seen is in the $600 to $1500 range, and that is quite expensive for residential use. BONUS for if it has single mode fiber port (or 2) built in (SFP module need to be added is fine). another optional Bonus is Wifi onboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can find un-managed switches that are hardened for a reasonable price ($200 or less)...the router thing is what has me searching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for the help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28765" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="b9955e82-f288-4dd2-92d9-1f3abe933e68" CreationDate="2018-03-08T22:05:24.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28766" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8913" RevisionGUID="1f537426-693c-43f2-9486-bcf0e211c05b" CreationDate="2018-03-08T22:30:25.663" UserId="7960" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="I've got a small device that reads data off of a thumbdrive. I'd rather not be carrying my thumbdrive back and forth. I thought I remembered a USB drive out there that would connect to your WiFi network and act like a mirror for some folder on your desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a real thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Here's what I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    [Device] ---USB--&gt; [Thing] ---WiFi--&gt;--Network--&gt; [Desktop]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically I want `[Thing]`" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8926" RevisionGUID="4d848b34-625a-443b-aabe-379056d03224" CreationDate="2018-03-09T05:30:36.590" UserId="3707" Text="I'm planning the build to (finally) upgrade my Phenom II 1090T system and have chosen a 1950x Threadripper CPU and an ASRock Taichi X399 motherboard (the dual Intel gigabit NICs in the Taichi were the deciding factor. Price also).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from RAM, all other parts will be what's currently in my existing system.  The old motherboard &amp; CPU &amp; RAM will be recycled into the other machines on my home network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm having a very hard time choosing which RAM to get.  I want at least 64GB, and will most likely get 128GB.  The current 1090T system has 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM is ridiculously expensive at the moment (and unlikely to get much cheaper in the next 12-18 months), so I want to get the best possible value for money - this system is expected to last me for at least the next 5 years (and hopefully longer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm more concerned with avoiding a **bad** choice (or wasting money on something that might be X% better in theory but gives me no noticeable benefit in practice), than in making the absolutely best possible choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Is it worth spending significantly more for RAM faster than DDR4-2133 or 2400?&#xD;&#xA; * Does having 4 or all 8 DIMM sockets filled limit or affect the maximum RAM speed?&#xD;&#xA; * Is there a **noticeable** performance benefit from lower latency RAM?&#xD;&#xA; * HyperX, G.Skill and Corsair are the brands easily available near me in Australia - are there any solid reasons to choose or avoid any of these brands?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really care much about a $50 or so difference per 64GB, but the difference between ~ $1100 AUD for DDR-4 2400 and ~ $1400 AUD for DDR4-3200 is large enough to want to avoid wasting money if it gives me no real benefit.  I could use that money to upgrade my video card or buy a pair of PCI-e M.2 drives or something that would give a noticeable improvement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, $1 AUD = approx $0.75 USD at the moment. We also pay a semi-random &quot;Australia Tax&quot; for imported hardware, which is whatever the importer thinks they can get away with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: this system will run only Debian GNU/Linux.  It will never run any version of Microsoft Windows, so Windows-specific issues are not relevant to me in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system performs 3 main functions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. my desktop/workstation PC running lots of terminal shells, multiple browsers including Chromium &amp; Firefox, and occasionally other GUI apps like Libre Office, and sometimes for playing games.  Mostly I use the command line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. my main home server running pretty much everything a home network could need, including dhcp &amp; dns &amp; tftp, a large ZFS pool exported via NFS &amp; iscsi, backups, mail, web, squid proxy, gitlab, KVM virtual machines and docker containers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. a home &quot;lab&quot; machine for experimenting with interesting technology, mostly in VMs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I should split this into two machines (server and workstation) but I can't afford to upgrade it AND buy a new desktop box at the same time...maybe I'll do that next year.  I need a Threadripper for this upgrade because a Ryzen 7 doesn't have enough PCI-e slots/lanes.  Also, 16 cores / 32 threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One final question: does anyone have any links to sites with **solid** information (not just rumour and speculation) about the Zen+ 2nd generation Threadrippers supposedly due in the 2nd half of this year?   If there are likely to be significant bug-fixes in BIOS or CPU it might be worth waiting a bit longer before upgrading, but not if it's only going to be a barely noticeable (&lt;= 5%) performance improvement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8926" RevisionGUID="4d848b34-625a-443b-aabe-379056d03224" CreationDate="2018-03-09T05:30:36.590" UserId="3707" Text="Optimal RAM for Threadripper 1950x 64GB or 128GB build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8926" RevisionGUID="4d848b34-625a-443b-aabe-379056d03224" CreationDate="2018-03-09T05:30:36.590" UserId="3707" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28774" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8926" RevisionGUID="b4a59717-f2f1-4d5a-8ec6-54043a3394e1" CreationDate="2018-03-09T05:36:24.153" UserId="3707" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm planning the build to (finally) upgrade my Phenom II 1090T system and have chosen a 1950x Threadripper CPU and an ASRock Taichi X399 motherboard (the dual Intel gigabit NICs in the Taichi were the deciding factor. Price also).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from RAM, all other parts will be what's currently in my existing system.  The old motherboard &amp; CPU &amp; RAM will be recycled into the other machines on my home network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm having a very hard time choosing which RAM to get.  I want at least 64GB, and will most likely get 128GB.  The current 1090T system has 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM is ridiculously expensive at the moment (and unlikely to get much cheaper in the next 12-18 months), so I want to get the best possible value for money - this system is expected to last me for at least the next 5 years (and hopefully longer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm more concerned with **avoiding a bad choice** (or wasting money on something that might be X% better in theory but gives me no noticeable benefit in practice), than in making the absolutely best possible choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Is it worth spending significantly more for RAM faster than DDR4-2133 or 2400?&#xD;&#xA; * Does having 4 or all 8 DIMM sockets filled limit or affect the maximum RAM speed?&#xD;&#xA; * Is there a **noticeable** performance benefit from lower latency RAM?&#xD;&#xA; * HyperX, G.Skill and Corsair are the brands easily available near me in Australia - are there any solid reasons to choose or avoid any of these brands?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really care much about a $50 or so difference per 64GB, but the difference between ~ $1100 AUD for DDR-4 2400 and ~ $1400 AUD for DDR4-3200 is large enough to want to avoid wasting money if it gives me no real benefit.  I could use that money to upgrade my video card or buy a pair of PCI-e M.2 drives or something that would give a noticeable improvement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, $1 AUD = approx $0.75 USD at the moment. We also pay a semi-random &quot;Australia Tax&quot; for imported hardware, which is whatever the importer thinks they can get away with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: this system will run only Debian GNU/Linux.  It will never run any version of Microsoft Windows, so Windows-specific issues are not relevant to me in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system performs 3 main functions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. my desktop/workstation PC running lots of terminal shells, multiple browsers including Chromium &amp; Firefox, and occasionally other GUI apps like Libre Office, and sometimes for playing games.  Mostly I use the command line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. my main home server running pretty much everything a home network could need, including dhcp &amp; dns &amp; tftp, a large ZFS pool exported via NFS &amp; iscsi, backups, mail, web, squid proxy, gitlab, KVM virtual machines and docker containers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. a home &quot;lab&quot; machine for experimenting with interesting technology, mostly in VMs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I should split this into two machines (server and workstation) but I can't afford to upgrade it AND buy a new desktop box at the same time...maybe I'll do that next year.  I need a Threadripper for this upgrade because a Ryzen 7 doesn't have enough PCI-e slots/lanes.  Also, 16 cores / 32 threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One final question: does anyone have any links to sites with **solid** information (not just rumour and speculation) about the Zen+ 2nd generation Threadrippers supposedly due in the 2nd half of this year?   If there are likely to be significant bug-fixes in BIOS or CPU it might be worth waiting a bit longer before upgrading, but not if it's only going to be a barely noticeable (&lt;= 5%) performance improvement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28775" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8926" RevisionGUID="b4a59717-f2f1-4d5a-8ec6-54043a3394e1" CreationDate="2018-03-09T05:36:24.153" UserId="3707" Comment="edited body" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28779" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="3354d313-fb2d-4044-943a-b7abbc276013" CreationDate="2018-03-09T13:17:27.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28780" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8928" RevisionGUID="359de70a-7ae8-4d0a-ac38-acd97924e3a3" CreationDate="2018-03-09T13:53:08.407" UserId="84" Text="One of my kids has gotten into online gaming with friends on XBox One using a Logitech G933 headset.  **The problem:** He can't keep his voice down.  He's like the annoying phone users who become oblivious to how loud they're talking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife says that my first solution – an anti-bark collar – is not acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my second idea is to plug the headset through an adjustable microphone feedback device that adds the microphone's audio signal on top of the audio going to the earphones.  As we increase that feedback level he'll not only be aware of how loud he's talking, but then if he gets too loud he'll start a feedback loop.  I figure that will teach him very quickly to keep his voice down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any such device exist, or can some existing device be easily adapted to this purpose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28781" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8928" RevisionGUID="359de70a-7ae8-4d0a-ac38-acd97924e3a3" CreationDate="2018-03-09T13:53:08.407" UserId="84" Text="Headset microphone feedback device to keep user from talking too loudly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28782" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8928" RevisionGUID="359de70a-7ae8-4d0a-ac38-acd97924e3a3" CreationDate="2018-03-09T13:53:08.407" UserId="84" Text="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="346fa94f-2d0c-491c-b0d8-9188349d9c3a" CreationDate="2018-03-09T15:59:14.203" UserId="7981" Text="My boarding school dormitories collectively have about 12-15 speakers already, we need just a system that can play through DVDs, USBs, CDs and is durable. I don't really understand channels and 5.1 audio or whatever. How would I know whether a music player would support that many speakers? I'm not talking about an arrangement of subwoofers and tweeters and all. Just a bunch of speakers connected to a single music system. All of them play in separate dormitories, so that everyone can hear the music." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28784" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="346fa94f-2d0c-491c-b0d8-9188349d9c3a" CreationDate="2018-03-09T15:59:14.203" UserId="7981" Text="How do I choose a music player?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28785" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="346fa94f-2d0c-491c-b0d8-9188349d9c3a" CreationDate="2018-03-09T15:59:14.203" UserId="7981" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="83b641fd-647c-4ae7-b0fd-ac3bac164c1a" CreationDate="2018-03-09T17:32:39.903" UserId="7981" Comment="I have come to know what I'm looking for. " Text="I'm looking for a DVD player that can be d connected to an amplifier. It will be used only for playing music. A small screen is desirable for playback info. It should support CDs and USB. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28787" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="83b641fd-647c-4ae7-b0fd-ac3bac164c1a" CreationDate="2018-03-09T17:32:39.903" UserId="7981" Comment="I have come to know what I'm looking for. " Text="How do I choose a music player / CD or DVD player?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28788" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8930" RevisionGUID="3ee8034e-8572-4fb2-8018-40350e0d1766" CreationDate="2018-03-09T22:00:24.447" UserId="6089" Text="Part of that which is missing in today's portable communications devices (cellular phones) is a feature of old-time telephones known as sidetone. This is exactly what you describe as feedback. One can hear one's own voice when speaking, with minimal to zero delay. Any appreciable delay becomes comedy material for radio disk jockeys and is riotous. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did a quick search for &quot;gaming headset with sidetone&quot; and was rewarded with a number of results that would indicate such a product exists. A few clicks in and I discovered that the search results are misleading, as a number of the products did not explicitly state sidetone as a feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also discovered that a few forums have discussions regarding this feature. It is more likely that you would be able to find a product confirmed by a forum user as having that feature, or you may be lucky enough to discover specifications indicating that sidetone or feedback is available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One post to a forum indicated that windows has the capability to enable the user to select &quot;hear yourself&quot; but I cannot confirm that as I do not have that feature on my system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The anti-bark collar, while suitable for creating entertaining video, would be providing feedback of limited duration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28791" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8928" RevisionGUID="55b98bc1-0475-4c22-8541-6422ac910f6b" CreationDate="2018-03-10T03:04:18.223" UserId="84" Comment="Updated with info provided in first answer" Text="tl;dr: (Thanks to [fred_dot_u](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/8930/84)) I'm looking for a gaming headset with adjustable sidetone, for use on an XBox One.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my kids has gotten into online gaming with friends on XBox One using a Logitech G933 headset.  **The problem:** He can't keep his voice down.  He's like the annoying phone users who become oblivious to how loud they're talking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife says that my first solution – an anti-bark collar – is not acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my second idea is to plug the headset through an adjustable microphone feedback device that adds the microphone's audio signal on top of the audio going to the earphones.  As we increase that feedback level he'll not only be aware of how loud he's talking, but then if he gets too loud he'll start a feedback loop.  I figure that will teach him very quickly to keep his voice down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any such device exist, or can some existing device be easily adapted to this purpose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28792" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8928" RevisionGUID="55b98bc1-0475-4c22-8541-6422ac910f6b" CreationDate="2018-03-10T03:04:18.223" UserId="84" Comment="Updated with info provided in first answer" Text="Headset (for XBox gaming) with adjustable sidetone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="3e1dbc23-356a-4105-8da9-f9babbbc0183" CreationDate="2018-03-10T03:59:47.493" UserId="7981" Comment="Tried to explain more" Text="I'm looking for a DVD player that can be connected to an amplifier. It will be used only for playing music. A small screen is desirable for playback info. It should support CDs and USB.&#xD;&#xA;We're not allowed laptops in school, where I intend to use it. It will probably be tampered with a lot and so should be durable. Please suggest a brand/model.&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I don't really understand why this question is considered so &quot;vague&quot;, but it probably is so to hardware professionals I guess. I am just asking for a DVD player recommendation with the above basic requirements. Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28794" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="2bf56b26-73df-42f4-bf60-fefc0bcba1c9" CreationDate="2018-03-10T04:09:30.680" UserId="7981" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a DVD player that can be connected to an amplifier. It will be used only for playing music. A small screen is desirable for playback info. It should support CDs and USB.&#xD;&#xA;We're not allowed laptops in school, where I intend to use it. It will probably be tampered with a lot and so should be durable. Please suggest a brand/model. Budget is around 3000-5000 INR (OR 50 US$)  but is flexible. &#xD;&#xA;P.S. I don't really understand why this question is considered so &quot;vague&quot;, but it probably is so to hardware professionals I guess. I am just asking for a DVD player recommendation with the above basic requirements. Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28798" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="67eff857-207c-465a-90c5-32e4b5ce4d25" CreationDate="2018-03-10T16:18:41.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28799" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="dd14c402-e2ed-400f-9647-12e775fb00a2" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:18:41.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="b4700ce6-c765-4e00-9905-15ad79ba9dab" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:31:48.847" UserId="7987" Text="Say I have twelve flat-screen TVs with HDMI ports that are physically arranged in a 3 by 4 matrix. What would I need to &quot;mirror&quot; an image from a laptop display (also with HDMI port) to that 3 by 4 matrix as if it was a single giant display? Can I do it only through software or do I need a special hardware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="b4700ce6-c765-4e00-9905-15ad79ba9dab" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:31:48.847" UserId="7987" Text="How to mirror the image from a computer monitor to a screen matrix" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="b4700ce6-c765-4e00-9905-15ad79ba9dab" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:31:48.847" UserId="7987" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28806" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8934" RevisionGUID="d5a33b4f-a4a2-45b5-990e-bcf4727b6e60" CreationDate="2018-03-10T20:43:39.280" UserId="3977" Text="I want to build an E-Ink Graphics Tablet. My plan is to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Lay the E-Ink display on top of a pen input digitizer.&#xD;&#xA;2. The E-Ink display would be driven using FPGA as instructed [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;3. The pen input digitizer would record the strokes and send it to the E-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need information on where I can find some hardware that can digitize pen strokes. I found some useful information about the pen input digitizers: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Information about the format of input one expects to get from the pen input digitizers and illustration of some difficulties one may face in making these devices work with Linux machines: [here][2] and [here][3]&#xD;&#xA;2. Names of some pen input devices- Pen input system antenna (BTM-P097), Waltop WA2006 Pen-Input Technology IC module, Waltop MCU1086 A3A5A from [here][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I am unable to find any hardware that I can order for the pen-input digitizer. (I wouldn't want to pluck out parts out an existing product, unless you say that is indeed the best way to go about it). Would you name me some suitable components if you know of any?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found some E-ink displays that I can order from the [E Ink Shop][5]. But I would also be happy to hear of any alternatives that you may have to suggest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My priority order for the hardware is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;1. easily available documentation&#xD;&#xA;2. easy to work with&#xD;&#xA;3. easy on the wallet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hackaday.com/2017/04/20/e-ink-display-driven-diy/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPab7pbOhBY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4AKwJERxOw&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/cracking-open/boogie-board-rip-teardown-overpriced-and-a-few-features-short/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://shopkits.eink.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28807" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8934" RevisionGUID="d5a33b4f-a4a2-45b5-990e-bcf4727b6e60" CreationDate="2018-03-10T20:43:39.280" UserId="3977" Text="Pen-input digitizer for DIY E-Ink Graphics Tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28808" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8934" RevisionGUID="d5a33b4f-a4a2-45b5-990e-bcf4727b6e60" CreationDate="2018-03-10T20:43:39.280" UserId="3977" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8935" RevisionGUID="b7bcba60-e212-422b-b166-11ce2d6df95e" CreationDate="2018-03-10T20:48:18.783" UserId="6089" Text="It's practical to consider that you need special hardware, if only to have the physical capability to connect twelve screens to a source device. A quick search for &quot;tiling computer image over multiple screens&quot; provided too many links covering two monitor wallpaper, but a couple more useful resources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of them is an NVIDIA product line called [Mosaic][1]. I expect that the company would be able to provide substantially high performance video devices, considering their history in the gaming video world. I did not follow the pricing links!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another link I discovered also appears to be a commercial resource, but seems to be a service rather than a solution. One of the links from that source sent me to [Matrox][2] which advertises &quot;Dual, Quad and beyond,&quot; for capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[AMD appears to offer support][3] via graphics adapter cards up to six displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I popped off another search using &quot;How many monitors will windows support,&quot; and got a few links to indicate &quot;no limit,&quot; except for hardware limitations and performance consideration. The search also provided an article written in 2012 that might be of value https://www.pcworld.com/article/251521/when_two_monitors_arent_enough.html describing alternative devices, which again is a hardware consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You'll be limited by the number of slots in your computer and the number of ports per card, but if you have sufficient room to plug in four cards with three ports, or the reverse, it is suggested in the articles noted above that you should use all the same device, to keep the drivers uniform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/design-visualization/solutions/nvidia-mosaic-technology/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/graphics_cards/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amd.com/en-us/products/graphics/workstation/firepro-display-wall#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28810" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="e3af753f-fc43-4a85-a597-937a12bf82ef" CreationDate="2018-03-10T21:18:48.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28811" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8934" RevisionGUID="1be6e7cc-7424-480f-9bed-882f89c8a25f" CreationDate="2018-03-10T21:20:02.573" UserId="3977" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I want to build an E-Ink Graphics Tablet. My plan is to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Lay the E-Ink display on top of a pen input digitizer.&#xD;&#xA;2. The E-Ink display would be driven using FPGA as instructed [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;3. The pen input digitizer would record the strokes and send it to the E-ink display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need information on where I can find some hardware that can digitize pen strokes. I found some useful information about the pen input digitizers: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Information about the format of input one expects to get from the pen input digitizers and illustration of some difficulties one may face in making these devices work with Linux machines: [here][2] and [here][3]&#xD;&#xA;2. Names of some pen input devices- Pen input system antenna (BTM-P097), Waltop WA2006 Pen-Input Technology IC module, Waltop MCU1086 A3A5A from [here][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I am unable to find any hardware that I can order for the pen-input digitizer. (I wouldn't want to pluck out parts of an existing product, unless you say that is indeed the best way to go about it). Would you name me some suitable components if you know of any?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found some E-ink displays that I can order from the [E Ink Shop][5]. But I would also be happy to hear of any alternatives that you may have to suggest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My priority order for the hardware is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;1. easily available documentation&#xD;&#xA;2. easy to work with&#xD;&#xA;3. easy on the wallet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hackaday.com/2017/04/20/e-ink-display-driven-diy/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPab7pbOhBY&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4AKwJERxOw&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/cracking-open/boogie-board-rip-teardown-overpriced-and-a-few-features-short/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://shopkits.eink.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8936" RevisionGUID="64857afa-39ee-410d-b434-5903ead835d4" CreationDate="2018-03-11T01:54:54.993" UserId="7984" Text="I am attempting a simple data acquisition project. I have a 5V analog signal from a pressure transducer on 2-3 channels. I need to convert this to a digital signal that I can acquire on my PC. Ideally, this would involve a USB. I need to monitor this signal real-time and be able to export to CSV or text format. Sampling frequency is not critical (20 kHz is ok). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hoping to purchase a data acquisition card/box that would work with minimal programming and tinkering. Would be nice if it worked with a 1/4&quot; jack on the analog side (or even RCA or 3.5 mm). Also looking for guidance on software for this project. I feel like this should be an easy project but having difficulty finding exactly what I need and since I haven't done anything like this before, a bit afraid to jump in. Hoping someone can point me in the direction regarding what to buy. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28813" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8936" RevisionGUID="64857afa-39ee-410d-b434-5903ead835d4" CreationDate="2018-03-11T01:54:54.993" UserId="7984" Text="Hardware suggestions for a simple data acquisition unit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28814" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8936" RevisionGUID="64857afa-39ee-410d-b434-5903ead835d4" CreationDate="2018-03-11T01:54:54.993" UserId="7984" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8937" RevisionGUID="1869d264-0119-4e69-ba84-4a411cba86ea" CreationDate="2018-03-11T03:26:17.750" UserId="6089" Text="I found something that may meet your requirements, for a rather good price (US Dollars) in a product called the [DATAQ DI-1100 data acquisition starter kit][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DI-1100 kit][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Four analog inputs up to +/-10v with provided software allowing for computer data storage and processing. The connections are screw terminals, not mini-plugs, although it's a simple matter to add such a junction device of your own design and construction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications note that you should be able to accomplish 20-24kHz sampling for the limited number of inputs you require.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are PDF documents on the site providing greater detail as well as the operation manual. The manual indicates a mini-USB is used for power and communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The included software manual has a section allowing for exporting files to be used in Excel, although it references the more-or-less universal CSV file format, precluding the data from being restricted to Excel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dataq.com/products/di-1100/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqSTsqfj2QIVl0wNCh2snwz3EAYYASABEgKSi_D_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuORX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28817" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="93c0f94e-16e9-40c0-bb22-48e613555ba1" CreationDate="2018-03-11T12:18:54.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28818" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="86801adb-7dbe-4d64-9ad3-0148e547dc4f" CreationDate="2018-03-11T21:19:33.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8938" RevisionGUID="e31e54f3-3461-4fe6-bc19-7ab5cfe7c8b7" CreationDate="2018-03-12T02:23:41.847" UserId="5440" Text="At 9 (I know...it's not 10...) feet the [**AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable**][1] should be a great option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;officially supports fast charging (and some pixel owners confirm in the Q&amp;As, and has a 5-star rating from Google Engineer and famous USB Type-C reviewer Benson Leung.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-2-0-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ3MM//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=yisroel-20&amp;linkId=70eaa9009d2f9481a5dab28e6e217c24" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="9e377585-9761-47e7-be97-7dbe3c262470" CreationDate="2018-03-12T13:29:36.083" UserId="2292" Text="I am looking for a powerful laptop/or &quot;schleptop&quot; portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 64GB RAM, dual channel (currently development environment, particularly GWT requirements, occasionally gives trouble if running other things in 32GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'd prefer 12-16 threads (our software and IDE extensions are well threaded, 8 threads are a limitation for the latter at times).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of business practices and recent security/performance issues, I would like to try out an AMD Ryzen CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 256GB solid state storage. A hybrid SSD/platter hard drive is fine as long as total storage is 1TB minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not so important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics. Preferably not internal Intel graphics. Internal AMD graphics would be fine, but I think you cannot get this with more than 4 cores/8 threads. So the best option is likely relatively low grade discrete mobile graphics from AMD or nVIDIA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can connect to HD televisions or monitors, so the screen size/quality is not very important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer having a built in DVD drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life - heavy duty jobs would be done on mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15&quot;-17&quot; footprint preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand this will cost me - as portability/smaller form factors usually do. I am hoping it is possible within £2500/$3000. I like not having to take a separate keyboard along and to be able to use it while travelling, however a small form factor PC is also an acceptable solution if it fits in aircraft cabin luggage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it runs slightly against my lack of screen/graphics requirements, I am willing to try a &quot;gaming laptop&quot;, assuming these are expected to handle moderate CPU use. For example, I noticed that ASUS has one with a Ryzen 7 1700 CPU, which might be feasible except it appears to have a 32GB RAM limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can wait a couple of months in case somebody knows something is on the horizon, which I don't know about. Thank you for any ideas." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28821" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="9e377585-9761-47e7-be97-7dbe3c262470" CreationDate="2018-03-12T13:29:36.083" UserId="2292" Text="Laptop or portable computer with 64GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28822" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="9e377585-9761-47e7-be97-7dbe3c262470" CreationDate="2018-03-12T13:29:36.083" UserId="2292" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2705" RevisionGUID="c7185bd2-f9e8-4cc8-a497-dc4136e2ec55" CreationDate="2018-03-12T16:48:53.937" UserId="2292" Comment="Added update." Text="[Ulefone Power][1] also has a ~6000mAh battery and can charge other phones/devices and is priced very reasonably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Update: I will retract this as a recommendation as I have some concerns about the quality/reliability of mine.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://ulefone.com/products/power/features.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8941" RevisionGUID="681100af-9b81-4979-8248-1a6201124842" CreationDate="2018-03-12T16:52:46.643" UserId="2292" Text="[Lenovo P2][1] has ~5000mAh, which can last me over a weekend at a pinch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This gives it slightly less ability to charge other things than the 6000mAh suggestions, although with the P2 itself appearing to be very power efficient, needing less power itself, the difference might not be so big.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www3.lenovo.com/gb/en/smartphones-and-watches/lenovo/lenovo-series/P2c72/p/PPIPPIP2C72" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="e916fbc5-902b-4ed3-8af3-fe1cc5f97812" CreationDate="2018-03-12T17:45:54.333" UserId="7991" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. For example, the Radeon RX Vega 64 looks interesting.&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, perhaps even complete recommendations. Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28835" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="e916fbc5-902b-4ed3-8af3-fe1cc5f97812" CreationDate="2018-03-12T17:45:54.333" UserId="7991" Text="AMD + machine learning with GPU's : which setup is recommended?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28836" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="e916fbc5-902b-4ed3-8af3-fe1cc5f97812" CreationDate="2018-03-12T17:45:54.333" UserId="7991" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="f3df39c3-79dc-474c-8bce-4ffd3ebaee93" CreationDate="2018-03-12T17:51:34.340" UserId="7991" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. For example, the Radeon RX Vega 64 looks interesting.&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28838" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="f79c4b09-3493-48e0-ad9a-dfdecb49faf8" CreationDate="2018-03-12T18:25:23.453" UserId="7991" Comment="edited title" Text="AMD + machine learning with GPU's: which setup is recommended?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28839" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="57700873-73df-4f54-98b4-8c8f29f18fb1" CreationDate="2018-03-12T21:20:56.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28840" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="bc869c41-78bb-4914-b941-e4324278175d" CreationDate="2018-03-12T23:22:00.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8944" RevisionGUID="48a6a0a9-6f65-44ab-ae87-4c4b4d1076c1" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:02:01.817" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28847" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8944" RevisionGUID="48a6a0a9-6f65-44ab-ae87-4c4b4d1076c1" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:02:01.817" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8945" RevisionGUID="546bc900-0d70-4a46-8e5c-bf49af4ba410" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:02:01.817" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28849" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8945" RevisionGUID="546bc900-0d70-4a46-8e5c-bf49af4ba410" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:02:01.817" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="df5db418-b9f3-494c-9f83-e4024c5797c0" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:32:19.800" UserId="7991" Comment="added 150 characters in body; edited title" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source, and I want to invest in new machine learning hardware but don't feel like spending 3k on Nvidia-oriented gear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. For example, the Radeon RX Vega 64 looks interesting.&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, what works (aiming at using Tensorflow) perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28851" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="df5db418-b9f3-494c-9f83-e4024c5797c0" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:32:19.800" UserId="7991" Comment="added 150 characters in body; edited title" Text="AMD + machine learning with GPU's: experiences from successful builds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8946" RevisionGUID="bc2dbebe-3fd1-4d4e-8096-61f7bc0823a6" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:38:22.693" UserId="7991" Text="I hope someone has some knowledge about whether it is recommended (and if so, what specifically) to invest in solar panels in order to power a PC of about 1000 watts, that will run 24/7 (to do machine learning).&#xD;&#xA;If the setup works, I might wish to add another PC over time (with an extra panel).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Living in an apartment (in Europe), the solar panels should be more or less mobile so I can mount them on the balcony.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope to reduce the burden on the environment as well as on my wallet eventually :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28853" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8946" RevisionGUID="bc2dbebe-3fd1-4d4e-8096-61f7bc0823a6" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:38:22.693" UserId="7991" Text="Recommended (mobile) solar panels for PC setup with a power-supply of 800-1000 watt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28854" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8946" RevisionGUID="bc2dbebe-3fd1-4d4e-8096-61f7bc0823a6" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:38:22.693" UserId="7991" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;solar-power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28855" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8910" RevisionGUID="139caae1-4627-497d-a1c4-fc45484bde7a" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:40:36.360" UserId="7992" Comment="In case the linked destination disapears or is changed" Text="I ended up buying [this Multi Monitor Video Graphics Adapter][1]* which wasn't working either until I disabled secure boot, curious to know if that prevented the other items I tried but I have what I wanted finally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* StarTech.com HD 1080p USB 3.0 to HDMI External Multi Monitor Video Graphics Adapter for Mac and PC&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6G5ZGI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28856" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8910" RevisionGUID="139caae1-4627-497d-a1c4-fc45484bde7a" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:40:36.360" Comment="Proposed by 7992 approved by 60 edit id of 664" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="536c6803-e613-45a6-8786-8acac3a934d3" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:42:48.977" UserId="7992" Comment="Improved formatting and readibility (and making it seem less broad by highlighting the specific points)" Text="I'm looking for a DVD player that will be used only for playing music:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - That can be connected to an amplifier&#xD;&#xA; - A small screen is desirable for playback info&#xD;&#xA; - It should support CDs and USB&#xD;&#xA; - Should be durable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're not allowed laptops in school, where I intend to use it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please recommend a brand/model. My budget is around 3000-5000 INR (OR 50 US$)  but is flexible.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28858" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8929" RevisionGUID="536c6803-e613-45a6-8786-8acac3a934d3" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:42:48.977" Comment="Proposed by 7992 approved by 60 edit id of 665" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8945" RevisionGUID="07e48acc-1911-48af-bf85-0cf90a293161" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:44:46.497" UserId="1410" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="For questions about Single Board Computers. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-board_computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28862" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8945" RevisionGUID="07e48acc-1911-48af-bf85-0cf90a293161" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:44:46.497" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 60 edit id of 666" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="fcea40dd-abbf-48b7-814e-7c56c3158ca3" CreationDate="2018-03-13T14:01:28.817" UserId="7991" Comment="added 215 characters in body" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source, and I want to invest in new machine learning hardware but don't feel like spending 3k on Nvidia-oriented gear.&#xD;&#xA;The machine learning will be oriented towards voice and sound generation using [Wavenet][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything equivalent to (or better than) the gtx 1080 ti seems like a worthwhile to invest time in to get it to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, what works (aiming at using Tensorflow) perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/ibab/tensorflow-wavenet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8947" RevisionGUID="c62a9f99-ea67-402c-97d6-912057247cdb" CreationDate="2018-03-13T16:11:06.130" UserId="6089" Text="A typical solar panel electrical package will include a series of solar panels (rating and quantity based on expected load), a charge controller, a battery bank (rating and quantity based on expected load) and an inverter (yes, rating based on expected load).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are confident that you will need 1000 watts of power, you should be configuring your system for at least twenty percent more than that, as one does not achieve one hundred percent efficiency from solar panels. If one is in an area of less than ideal weather conditions, one should increase the size proportionally. For the sake of this answer, I'll stick with the 1200 watt value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the USA, [The Home Depot][1] sells a 1200 watt system with 4 panels of 77 inches by 14 inches (1.9m x .35m) which is quite a large array. These panels include micro-inverters, one m-inverter per panel and provide AC voltage directly to the included controller and sub-panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is not the type of system you would want if your intention is to run the computer continuously, but is provided as an example of the size of panels and general configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A company called [Armory Survival(!)][2] sells an 1100 watt system, also with 4 panels of similar size, but has an off-grid configuration that permits battery connection. Very expensive bundles that do not include batteries means additional expense to have continuous (night) electrical power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A frequent discussion in the electric vehicle world is the concept of a motor vehicle powered by solar panels exclusively. It's a different type of portability, but the numbers are equally challenging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not confident that you'll find a system to meet your requirements, especially considering the balcony constraint. Additionally, if your balcony does not point toward geographic south, the efficiency deteriorates for lack of solar energy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Renogy-1200-Watt-12-Volt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Cabin-Kit-for-off-grid-solar-system-KIT-CABIN1200P/301855416&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.armorysurvival.com/product/inergy-solar-gold-combo-kit/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2KzGxdbp2QIVAkwNCh2V0g4QEAQYAiABEgICD_D_BwE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28865" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="cc4f0201-1ebd-42c0-a503-29a4eb437249" CreationDate="2018-03-13T16:22:36.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28866" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8948" RevisionGUID="334b1284-f597-40a3-982f-527b35f49d7a" CreationDate="2018-03-13T21:26:40.247" UserId="7923" Text="I am looking for a bluetooth speaker that can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* charge through USB, so I don't have to worry about not losing the proprietary charger&#xD;&#xA;* connect through a 3.5 mm line in (aux input) - so I can use it as a regular speaker with any device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget is 150 Euro maximum&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yet an important question is: if the speaker has the USB charging feature, then it can charge with any USB charger or maybe some such speakers can only charge when using their own USB charger?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28867" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8948" RevisionGUID="334b1284-f597-40a3-982f-527b35f49d7a" CreationDate="2018-03-13T21:26:40.247" UserId="7923" Text="Bluetooth speakers with USB charging and line in (aux input)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28868" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8948" RevisionGUID="334b1284-f597-40a3-982f-527b35f49d7a" CreationDate="2018-03-13T21:26:40.247" UserId="7923" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28869" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8949" RevisionGUID="9c1cc192-ef84-4386-9ccd-cf2912101fc1" CreationDate="2018-03-13T21:29:29.020" UserId="8000" Text="Just because this thread is one of the top google search results for USB-C 3.1 (and USB-C 3.1 gen 2) splitters/hubs and Thunderbolt hubs I want to provide some products that I had to search for for a long, long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As Mumblic pointed out the availability for splitters are somewhat limited.&#xD;&#xA;I looked around a bit anyways and found a couple of products (hubs!) that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Feature Thunderbolt 3 Charging for **at least** one device&#xD;&#xA; 2. Have **additional USB ports** (C and/or A, at least 3.0)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Support **at least** one 60Hz 4k, mostly 60Hz 5k or 2x 4k Monitors and&#xD;&#xA; 4. cost under 350 Bucks (urgh..)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ordered by price (low =&gt; high):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [CalDigit TS3][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Elgato Thunderbolt 2 Dock][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [OWCTB3 DK13PSG][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Belkin 3 m Thunderbolt Express Dock ][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These products are stilly pretty expensive and for this question searching a USB-C Splitter they may be completely off topic, but given the possibilities they offer I think they may be worth the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not tested any of this products myself but there are some reviews online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1326935-REG/caldigit_500808_ts3_thunderbolt_3_charging.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Thunderbolt-2-Kabel-Unterst%C3%BCtzung-Aluminumgeh%C3%A4use/dp/B00PFHLH2I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520975034&amp;sr=1-2-fkmr0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N51P3BB?ascsubtag=UUimUdUnU44159YYwYwnfww64tffzrw63i&amp;linkCode=g12&amp;creativeASIN=B01N51P3BB&amp;tag=androcentr0a-21&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.de/Belkin-Thunderbolt-verbindet-Anschl%C3%BCsse-kompatibel/dp/B01M2D4SNT/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520975105&amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8948" RevisionGUID="a05f3f58-f245-45fa-985f-ca2da4006447" CreationDate="2018-03-13T22:52:06.583" UserId="7923" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a bluetooth speaker that can:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* charge through USB, so I don't have to worry about not losing a proprietary charger&#xD;&#xA;* connect through a 3.5 mm line in (aux input) - so I can use it as a regular speaker with any device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget is 150 Euro maximum&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yet an important question is: if the speaker has the USB charging feature, then it can charge with any USB charger or maybe some of such speakers can only charge when using their own USB charger?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28871" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="e3f58679-72ea-4eca-ad92-54b8b40df2cc" CreationDate="2018-03-13T23:15:00.247" UserId="7991" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source, and I want to invest in new machine learning hardware but don't feel like spending 3k on Nvidia-oriented gear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine learning will be oriented towards Tensorflow for voice and sound generation with [Wavenet][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything equivalent to (or better than) the gtx 1080 ti seems like a worthwhile to invest time in to get it to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, what works (aiming at using Tensorflow) perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/ibab/tensorflow-wavenet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8950" RevisionGUID="624808b6-732a-4105-9c3b-fbff9067fb2c" CreationDate="2018-03-14T01:49:28.393" UserId="8002" Text="I currently own a 2016 Dell Inspiron 15 5000 and don't have enough money to buy a Gaming PC. I average around 20 FPS in Fortnite and was wondering if it is possible to replace the processor. I am currently running the Intel i5 that comes with it but I want to replace it with the Ryzen 5 2400g with Vega 11 graphics. I am not very intelligent about computers but the shapes of the processors are the same. If I bought this processor and replaced my Intel i5, would it be able to run? If not, are there any processors that I could use instead to get better use of my laptop for gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8950" RevisionGUID="624808b6-732a-4105-9c3b-fbff9067fb2c" CreationDate="2018-03-14T01:49:28.393" UserId="8002" Text="Is it possible to replace a laptop's processor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8950" RevisionGUID="624808b6-732a-4105-9c3b-fbff9067fb2c" CreationDate="2018-03-14T01:49:28.393" UserId="8002" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="de110e06-43ee-4b64-89d0-8c1eb9745771" CreationDate="2018-03-14T10:47:13.637" UserId="7991" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source, and I want to invest in new machine learning hardware but don't feel like spending 3k on Nvidia-oriented gear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine learning will be oriented towards Tensorflow for voice and sound generation with [Wavenet][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. &#xD;&#xA;Anything equivalent to (or better than) the gtx 1080 ti seems like worth the time to in to get it to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I will be running Debian 9(.3) which on my current setup I finally got working together with nvidia/cuda/tensorflow/wavenet, to be honest it runs much smoother than Ubuntu.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, what works (aiming at using Tensorflow). Perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/ibab/tensorflow-wavenet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28877" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8952" RevisionGUID="e6b58ac3-1a3a-43d2-8ed6-2cb27223108a" CreationDate="2018-03-14T12:59:20.510" UserId="8003" Text="The CPU of the Dell Inspirion 15 5000 is soldered to the mainboard; however, you can change the board to another (so, you basically change the whole board + cpu).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can't change **only** the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Also, please note, you never ever can swap an Intel with an AMD processor, since their [Socket][1] won't fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_socket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28882" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8950" RevisionGUID="f8a18061-4e6d-425f-bd90-bd0e4903db6d" CreationDate="2018-03-14T18:38:43.043" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="28884" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1855" RevisionGUID="5283b399-231f-4b11-ba7b-0b351033be63" CreationDate="2018-03-14T20:16:35.333" UserId="1594" Comment="deleted 12 characters in body" Text="I think you are probably using the wrong terms here.  You seem to want basically a USB extension, cables, but with the ends that look nice.  What you may be looking for would be something like a [**USB patch panel**][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are mostly used for rankmount servers.  I haven't really seen anything targeted at the desktop market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have an particular experience with any of these vendors or models but a google search for 'USB patch panel' gave me these hits, which may get you pointed in the direction you are trying to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.usbpatchpanel.com/&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.l-com.com/patch-panel-server-rack-19-usb-patch-panels-equipped-with-16-or-32-usb-a-b-couplers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might also be looking for something called a [**USB bulkhead adapter**][2].  These are sold as components to be put behind walk plates for high end media center type setups.  Where you would get a fairly standard wallbox of some sort and matching wall plates, then you can have all the wiring for your media center run inside the wall.  You may find adapters that would work, and then you could easily mount them in a standard electronics project box of some type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=usb%20patch%20panel&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=usb%20bulkhead" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8954" RevisionGUID="7ac03970-6605-4232-bcf7-18fdeaf33dcb" CreationDate="2018-03-15T04:13:43.770" UserId="8008" Text="Qnap will run Plex *pretty perfectly* -- takes care of the format concerns. The machine itself can transcode on the fly or as a backround task too. Plus DNLA support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I also am pretty sure Kodi is available through qnapclub.eu Also Sickcbeard and some other fun stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Surveillance station works like a charm but the new QVRpro is pretty sick. You can upload maps and the camera support is easy - as is assigning storage space. What can I say -- I'm a fan with a love/hate relationship with Qnap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hate their &quot;tech support&quot;. They just yell at you. lol" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8955" RevisionGUID="8b972232-60d0-4036-8447-da385c045345" CreationDate="2018-03-15T05:05:31.990" UserId="5440" Text="The **Ultimate Ears MEGABOOM** is a really good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now on Amazon UK for £127.99 **https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDUE8TG**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Charges via typical Micro USB.&#xD;&#xA; - Has a 3.5mm aux input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But in general, it is a solid good speaker with awesome battery life and great sound.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your USB charging question: if it uses the same connection it will usually charge with any such connection if something it just won't charge that fast." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28890" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8942" RevisionGUID="6d4f2c85-9ec6-4005-997b-81b29cc9d2e2" CreationDate="2018-03-15T09:36:36.767" UserId="7991" Comment="deleted 178 characters in body" Text="Having some experience with Intel + Nvidia and Tensorflow, I would love to transition to AMD. This is in part because I am biased towards open source, and I want to invest in new machine learning hardware but don't feel like spending 3k on Nvidia-oriented gear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The machine learning will be oriented towards Tensorflow for voice and sound generation with [Wavenet][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking into assembling a new desktop setup of one (or perhaps more) of AMD's GPU's. &#xD;&#xA;Anything equivalent to (or better than) the gtx 1080 ti seems like worth the time spend to get it to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping to get some pointers on what to look for, what works (aiming at using Tensorflow). Perhaps even complete recommendations on components that work well together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips are very welcome, many thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/ibab/tensorflow-wavenet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="2c83a045-2149-4c7d-929e-8f273e3ba9de" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:21:35.203" UserId="5758" Text="I've a display with an integrated USB type C hub. The keyboard and mouse are plugged into the monitor and the display is interconnected via USB type C in order to provide video signal, power and the USB connection itself of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I've a MacBook Pro attached to it. I want to add a mini-PC to the setup. Basically it does exactly the same thing. The USB cord gets plugged into it and the keyboard, mouse and display is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to &quot;hide&quot; the mini-PC in my desk and that's why it's not very practical that I need to unplug the USB c cable every time I want to use the other PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some sort of Y cable so that I can leave both computers plugged in simultaneously? Preferably with a switch so that even both of them can run while I only need to change the source with a simple &quot;press&quot;. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="2c83a045-2149-4c7d-929e-8f273e3ba9de" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:21:35.203" UserId="5758" Text="USB Type C Y-cable to connect two sources to a HUB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="2c83a045-2149-4c7d-929e-8f273e3ba9de" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:21:35.203" UserId="5758" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28896" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="b71d6d03-00b8-4947-8004-492c706d8e82" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:30:02.977" UserId="5758" Comment="added 91 characters in body" Text="I've a display with an integrated USB type C hub. The keyboard and mouse are plugged into the monitor and the display is interconnected via USB type C in order to provide video signal, power and the USB connection itself of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I've a MacBook Pro attached to it. I want to add a mini-PC to the setup. Basically it does exactly the same thing. The USB cord gets plugged into it and the keyboard, mouse and display is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to &quot;hide&quot; the mini-PC in my desk and that's why it's not very practical that I need to unplug the USB c cable every time I want to use the other PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some sort of Y cable so that I can leave both computers plugged in simultaneously? Preferably with a switch so that even both of them can run while I only need to change the source with a simple &quot;press&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1T6xr.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="9eaa1965-f871-4a2a-9025-4901f4671816" CreationDate="2018-03-15T15:44:53.003" UserId="5758" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="I've a display with an integrated USB type C hub. The keyboard and mouse are plugged into the monitor and the display is interconnected via USB type C in order to provide video signal, power and the USB connection itself of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I've a MacBook Pro attached to it. I want to add a mini-PC to the setup. Basically it does exactly the same thing. The USB cord gets plugged into it and the keyboard, mouse and display is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to &quot;hide&quot; the mini-PC in my desk and that's why it's not very practical that I need to unplug the USB c cable every time I want to use the other PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some sort of Y cable so that I can leave both computers plugged in simultaneously? Preferably with a switch so that even both of them can run while I only need to change the source with a simple &quot;press&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: the cable has USB type C on both ends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1T6xr.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28910" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="75c7667a-c085-4578-87ef-451ad423f347" CreationDate="2018-03-15T23:29:15.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28921" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="8f9bbef2-6168-4d0f-a0da-48b79f3171e1" CreationDate="2018-03-16T04:29:11.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28922" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="e8e12c4e-668c-4478-b095-6890edee0500" CreationDate="2018-03-16T05:29:47.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="1ae07a55-1786-42ca-99e9-59b949ae9eff" CreationDate="2018-03-16T16:21:54.537" UserId="8015" Text="I have a ThinkPad T470p and the SSD I currently have doesn't seem to perform as well as I'd like.  I looked inside there is a M.2 slot (currently empty) which seems too short for most M.2 SSDs.  There is also a SATA slot that currently has an adapter to PCIe NVMe (I think) which is where my current SSD lives.  So it seems my options are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A short M.2 SSD (maybe 60mm?)&#xD;&#xA;1. Current adapter-based setup with a faster NVMe SSD&#xD;&#xA;1. SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is hard for me to believe that going through an adapter could be faster than plain SATA but I don't really understand these new interface standards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is my best option for performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28928" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="1ae07a55-1786-42ca-99e9-59b949ae9eff" CreationDate="2018-03-16T16:21:54.537" UserId="8015" Text="Fastest SSD for ThinkPad T470p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28929" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="1ae07a55-1786-42ca-99e9-59b949ae9eff" CreationDate="2018-03-16T16:21:54.537" UserId="8015" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8968" RevisionGUID="6f3e18d3-5447-43ab-b999-e13bc47cd3f8" CreationDate="2018-03-16T21:14:28.087" UserId="8017" Text="According to the [ThinkPad T470p Platform Specifications][1] document, there are two M.2 slots:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- an &quot;M.2 SSD / PCIe NVMe, PCIe 3.0 x 2, 16Gb/s&quot; slot with the comment &quot;System has one HDD slot or one M.2 2280 slot exclusively for storage&quot;,&#xD;&#xA;- and another &quot;128GB M.2 SSD / SATA 6.0Gb/s, in WWAN slot as 2nd Storage, mutually exclusive with WWAN&quot; slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, there is a full M.2 2280 slot (which cannot be used at the same time as the 2.5&quot; SSD/HDD slot, because they occupy the same physical space), which provides a 16Gb/s PCIe 3.0 x2 connection (way faster than a SATA3 with 6Gb/s), and a shorter WWAN M.2 slot, which can be used with smaller (2260) cards, and which provides only SATA connectivity (limited to the standard 6Gb/s speed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkPad/ThinkPad%20T470p/ThinkPad_T470p_Platform_Specifications.pdf &quot;ThinkPad T470p Platform Specifications&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28942" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="02c71d7d-6a43-4761-be21-13f0be92a468" CreationDate="2018-03-16T23:30:27.937" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28947" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="26c465bb-d4ec-4a22-a63c-7805ecafe26b" CreationDate="2018-03-17T08:31:06.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8969" RevisionGUID="7f71c540-b68c-4743-a6ab-1d38ea7fe934" CreationDate="2018-03-17T09:29:44.480" UserId="4803" Text="I plan to buy second monitor for my iMac 27” as I understand that it will raise my productivity in design projects and also one of the reason is starting to learn front-end development. I do not want to go over 200 euros and currently feel that this Dell model could be the right choice. Maybe someone can give me feedback on it or suggest other, better choice? I also like Samsung monitor, maybe could try something else also.&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Professional-P2417H-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B01FGCJE26" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8969" RevisionGUID="7f71c540-b68c-4743-a6ab-1d38ea7fe934" CreationDate="2018-03-17T09:29:44.480" UserId="4803" Text="Will Dell P2417H, 23.8&quot; monitor be a good choice as second monitor to iMac 27”?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8969" RevisionGUID="7f71c540-b68c-4743-a6ab-1d38ea7fe934" CreationDate="2018-03-17T09:29:44.480" UserId="4803" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28951" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="bd8eafda-1c8f-49db-be6d-d129c66b6cec" CreationDate="2018-03-17T10:31:46.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8971" RevisionGUID="0af9b266-9e71-48ac-847d-1657b9660a72" CreationDate="2018-03-17T22:46:59.433" UserId="9019" Text="I need some advice on the laptop for design. I'm in between two options, more or less equal in price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What i use it for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - UX/UI design, hence Photoshop with tens of artboards (here is the adoby info about GPU and effects/tools use https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-cc-gpu-card-faq.html) + Zeplin plugin on top (it does eat a lot of memory from my experience)&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe XD&#xD;&#xA; - Adobe Illustrator&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NB: i'm NOT into video/3D graphics editing, neither games&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo ideapad-320 15IKBN3** 900€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-7500U (4MB Cache, 3,5 GHz) 2 Core (here i'm confused: store's label says it's 4, but Intel website only has i7-7500U with 2 Cores. Is that correct?)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM 12GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA; - HDD 1TB + SSD 256GB&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA 940MX 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus ROG Strix GL553VD-DM078T** 750€ (cheap because on sale)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7-7700HQ (6M Cache, 2.8GHz to 3.8GHz) 4 Cores&#xD;&#xA; - RAM 8GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - HDD 1TB&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1050 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the thing is, I realize that Asus ROG has a more powerful NVIDIA card, but i'm not sure if Lenovo's extra RAM and SSD will eventually balance the difference. Any thoughts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then even if Lenovo has 12GB RAM it's DDR3 and 2 Core. Seems like it still can't beat Asus 8GB + 4 Cores?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that as most of the gaming laps Asus ROG is really big and heavy, literally the most puffy one in the store. Sounds like a minor thing but I often have to carry the machine and gaming lap is not ideal. But I still would choose functionality over design, I just need to make sure Asus ROG is indeed much more powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any thoughts/advice about the performance of these two? &#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28957" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8971" RevisionGUID="0af9b266-9e71-48ac-847d-1657b9660a72" CreationDate="2018-03-17T22:46:59.433" UserId="9019" Text="Lenovo ideapad 320 or Asus ROG for graphic/web design?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28958" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8971" RevisionGUID="0af9b266-9e71-48ac-847d-1657b9660a72" CreationDate="2018-03-17T22:46:59.433" UserId="9019" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8832" RevisionGUID="f2fa61f9-2c9d-4983-91f1-b45416fade40" CreationDate="2018-03-18T08:29:38.537" UserId="7879" Comment="add some additional info" Text="In case you don't mind paying near to $250 on a fitness watch, you need to check out the Garmin Vívoactive 3. This is the best ever I could suggest within your budget and also it has all the features you want like you said above. BUT, if you need to make a second choice, you should consider the Fitbit Ionic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is like a straight fight between Pepsi vs Cola, DC vs Marvel, PS4 vs Xbox One, Android vs iOS. So the rival for Garmin is Fitbit. You can take a look at the [comparison][1] or read review before making final choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Some additional info*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Weight** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fitbit Ionic = 50 grams (or to be exact = 49.8952 grams)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Garmin Vivoactive 3 = 43 grams&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the winner here is Fitbit Ionic&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery life**  : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fitbit = 4 days&#xD;&#xA;Garmin = 7 days&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the winner here is Garmin Vívoactive 3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Software Compatibility and Features** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Garmin - If you are really into fitness freak or maybe something like endurance athletes and detailed performance junkie. This is the best to utilize a lot of activities such as cycling, golf, skiing, sports tracking, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fitbit - It is preferable for people who desire a less complicated user interface, are keen on daily activity monitoring and get social functions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion** : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you stated above &quot;track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc..&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is all can be done via both fitness tracker, but in term more added function or more details tracking, the winner is Garmin is here. But if you are not really into that, the best is Fitbit Ionic, with great display quality (that is the thing that make the battery duration for the Ionic less than Vivoactive) and less complicated user interface, it could be great for you which is at home the most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, my guess, the Fitbit Ionic is more suitable for you. For more details specs, i guess you should check out their official website, it might be a very long answer if i need to elaborate all of the details aspects and features.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wearvs.com/compare/fitbit-ionic-vs-garmin-vivoactive-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28966" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="498efed6-b676-4b1e-be04-fe4cf332e134" CreationDate="2018-03-18T08:32:29.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8973" RevisionGUID="95d1f4c6-c557-44cd-9643-3507864f10e7" CreationDate="2018-03-18T10:45:21.670" UserId="3974" Text="I think the **Lenovo** is the obvious choice&#xD;&#xA;For UI/UX design, you don't really need a lot of GPU power. A 940MX is a capable chip that will be sufficient for the job. RAM is much more important. I work with PSD files over 1Gb and that puts a lot on your RAM so 8 is not enough but 12 will be more comfortable. DDR3 and 4 won't be much of a difference.  i7-7500U is a dual-core CPU, but as long as you don't do video editing and 3D graphics, 2 Cores can do just fine ( Quad core will be better though). But the thing that I find most conclusive is the SSD. that alone should help you decide. DON'T GET A PC WITHOUT SSD it's as simple as that. I was going to buy a whole other laptop but I decided to upgrade to an SSD and it feels like a whole new machine.&#xD;&#xA;So to sum things up:&#xD;&#xA;- SSD is super important&#xD;&#xA;- GPU is not a big deal as long as you don't do 3D and video editing&#xD;&#xA;- A quad-core CPU is always better, but again unless you don't do 3D/video editing, Dual core is enough&#xD;&#xA;- 8Gb of RAM is not enough, 12Gb is better (RAM is expensive, keep that in mind)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; So for me, the choice is obvious the Lenovo is the good choice" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28968" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="bec5cc45-8d4a-4504-ba1c-7b21dcf2a49d" CreationDate="2018-03-18T13:32:29.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28969" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="225a682d-796c-4996-b127-a28041b9221c" CreationDate="2018-03-18T14:32:33.820" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28970" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="c509e07e-dbda-4f29-b00f-017acd8ed114" CreationDate="2018-03-18T15:32:29.540" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8976" RevisionGUID="2369ad82-683b-439e-a618-24114fa27488" CreationDate="2018-03-18T21:45:20.713" UserId="9025" Text="I have a nice headset with a mic and I like using it for gaming and for using my phone. This means when my phone rings and I'm on my computer I have to unplug it from the computer, put on the adapter for the phone (to combine the mic and audio jacks) plug it in the phone and do it in reverse when I'm done. Is there some kind of switch out there that would allow me to put them both in as sources and just turn a dial to change what goes in the headset? How makeable would that be? (I have very basic knowledge in electronics but I do have access to a fab lab)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28980" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8976" RevisionGUID="2369ad82-683b-439e-a618-24114fa27488" CreationDate="2018-03-18T21:45:20.713" UserId="9025" Text="Switch headset source" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28981" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8976" RevisionGUID="2369ad82-683b-439e-a618-24114fa27488" CreationDate="2018-03-18T21:45:20.713" UserId="9025" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8977" RevisionGUID="9ef03ecd-69c8-4cae-b8ea-5007325ae80b" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:01:59.267" UserId="7696" Text="I am looking into buying a new mouse and keyboard combo. I define &quot;combo&quot; as in using one single USB port for both devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I strongly prefer to buy on Amazon, but I can live without.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred Price range is $60 - $125 USD (~ £40 - £90), but I can be flexible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Shared Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent battery performance (Ideally 18+ months)&#xD;&#xA; - No Bluetooth, unless the devices include a Bluetooth USB transmitter&#xD;&#xA; - Full/Regular Size (No &quot;mini&quot; or &quot;travel&quot; sizes)&#xD;&#xA; - Right-Handed&#xD;&#xA; - QWERTY&#xD;&#xA; - Not the Anker model `98ANWPSS-K1M1A` (but can be similar)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Keyboard Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Full key set, which include dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; numpad and function keys&#xD;&#xA; - Minimal+ media keys (such as Play, Pause, Stop, RW, FF) and volume control&#xD;&#xA; - [Windows Key][1]&#xD;&#xA; - Quiet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Keyboard Like to Haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OS Sleep key is nice&#xD;&#xA; - Shortcut to calculator is also nice&#xD;&#xA; - Flat Keys&#xD;&#xA; - Wrist bar&#xD;&#xA; - I am a programmer, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Pause (Break) button is nice&#xD;&#xA; - I take screen shots, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Print Screen button is also nice&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Mouse Requirements/Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5-button design&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse wheel includes the &quot;left/right&quot; clicks&#xD;&#xA; - Rubber thumb (preferred)&#xD;&#xA; - Laser preferred over optical, but not required&#xD;&#xA; - I use a mouse pad, so doesn't need any special tracking requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Without the use of a special function key.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sG0IB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8977" RevisionGUID="9ef03ecd-69c8-4cae-b8ea-5007325ae80b" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:01:59.267" UserId="7696" Text="Looking for a modestly priced Wireless Keyboard &amp; Mouse Combo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8977" RevisionGUID="9ef03ecd-69c8-4cae-b8ea-5007325ae80b" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:01:59.267" UserId="7696" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28985" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8978" RevisionGUID="17a53040-1f90-44f5-98db-85e3da7bf88e" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:11:57.973" UserId="9026" Text="I have this laptop that my friend trow into my trash. It's a HP Compaq nx6110. It's kinda interesting hardware, many modules you can change, and of course, a very outdated. But I think with a Lubuntu it can be still useful, so I am researching and evaluating possibilities of hardware upgrade to make as best as possible (and affordable), beyond the simple memory/HDD upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware there is some hackers replacing old 32 bit CPU for 64 bit compliant that will fit in the same socket. I know a real case of MacMini with Core 2 Duo now running 64 bit Ubuntu. By the product documentation, is not possible, the best one is the Pentium M 770 2.13 (so maybe the newer 780 will fit either). But a lot of new processors were developed after the documentation release. I was looking for models that will fit in the 478 socket, however, is not that simple, though. I guess a Pentium 4 will burn my laptop! Maybe newer CPU won't communicate right with old chipset so won't work - theories I have in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is - is there some 64 bit CPU that will work in my notebook? If not, what's the best one and what can I expect of performance improvement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28986" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8978" RevisionGUID="17a53040-1f90-44f5-98db-85e3da7bf88e" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:11:57.973" UserId="9026" Text="What's the best replacement for Intel 1.4/1m/400 478 mobility today?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28987" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8978" RevisionGUID="17a53040-1f90-44f5-98db-85e3da7bf88e" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:11:57.973" UserId="9026" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8979" RevisionGUID="6b8ddf23-4ce1-46f2-8bc2-4911f59dfe37" CreationDate="2018-03-18T23:37:26.707" UserId="6089" Text="I have a device connected to my computer which allows me to select between speakers and headphones at the press of a button. I recognize that your request is not quite that configuration, but the circuit involved in this specific device would function in the manner you require if connected &quot;in reverse.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick search using the Google for &quot;headphone speaker switch box&quot; has provided the expected multitude of results, for example:&#xD;&#xA;[Speaker Headphone switch][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend this linked item, however, as it contains a volume control. There's no way to determine if any polarity protection is built into such a circuit, although it is unlikely. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The box I use is only a switch, the electrons flow in either direction with no problem. It has both speaker and headphone jacks and microphone jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would want to cull out any that have active circuits (requiring external power) and possibly any with a volume control (although that might not be a factor) and aim for the switch box configuration that matches your plug and jack arrangement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All computers using 1/8&quot; mini-plugs will require that the switch have plug connections to the PC. In your description, you'd have to have one that had jacks instead of plugs, which is unlikely. To accomplish such connections, you would either cut the plugs off and replace it with jacks or purchase female to female adapters to jumper those connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other locations in the switch would be jacks to accept the expected headphones and speakers, while your intent is to connect the phone circuit and the computer circuit. This would be accomplished with either male to female jumpers or male to male jumpers, both of which are commonly available online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![jack image][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reason the above linked product is unsuitable is that there is no provision for a microphone. Ensure when you search that the product allows for switching both microphone and headset when performing the button press.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Computer-Headphones-Converter-Switching/dp/B015FJ9WMW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCFxU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28989" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8973" RevisionGUID="f6fc2c85-64ea-4549-8548-7c0099328a16" CreationDate="2018-03-19T14:56:55.790" UserId="60" Comment="Broke up the wall of text." Text="I think the **Lenovo** is the obvious choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For UI/UX design, you don't really need a lot of GPU power. A 940MX is a capable chip that will be sufficient for the job. RAM is much more important. I work with PSD files over 1Gb and that puts a lot on your RAM. 8 is not enough, but 12 will be more comfortable. There is not much of a difference between DDR3 and DDR4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7-7500U is a dual-core CPU, but as long as you don't do video editing and 3D graphics, 2 Cores will be just fine (Quad core will be better though). But the thing that I find most conclusive is the SSD. That alone should help you decide. Don't get a PC without an SSD! It's as simple as that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to sum things up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD is super important&#xD;&#xA;- GPU is not a big deal as long as you don't do 3D and video editing&#xD;&#xA;- A quad-core CPU is always better, but again unless you don't do 3D/video editing, Dual core is enough&#xD;&#xA;- 8Gb of RAM is not enough, 12Gb is better (RAM is expensive, keep that in mind)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for me, the choice is obvious. The Lenovo is the better choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8980" RevisionGUID="bdf99e11-4c12-45f4-8c8a-d590f35f0838" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:02:40.303" UserId="9027" Text="My manager bought me a 4k display that is perfectly fine except that I have signifiant laggs on my current i7-7700 integrated GPU, such as delay in displaying input device actions, slowed AERO animations and so on. I'm allowed to perform an upgrade for my current PC (which I give to one of office guys). But here is a question: what GPU should I ask to buy? I mean all papers says that 7700 should handle 4k workload easily (no games or video, just common office work). Is it my hardware problem and I just can buy the same processor which probably doesn't have this issue? Or should I buy some low-end discrete GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm good at measuring games performance, I an say which GPU should I buy to achieve some FPS treshold in some game. But I'm powerless in the field of office work because any GPU was able to give reasonable performance on FullHD. But things has changed with 4k arrival." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8980" RevisionGUID="bdf99e11-4c12-45f4-8c8a-d590f35f0838" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:02:40.303" UserId="9027" Text="What is the cheapest 4k GPU for developer machine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8980" RevisionGUID="bdf99e11-4c12-45f4-8c8a-d590f35f0838" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:02:40.303" UserId="9027" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28995" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="cfc2fec2-6547-46a8-90a9-d2021e3b1a8e" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:35:54.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="28996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="191bbbba-8e4c-41cc-8208-f4dbfe10cc54" CreationDate="2018-03-19T19:28:31.953" UserId="9030" Text="mandatory:&#xD;&#xA;1) full-sized SD card does not stick out of card reader's case&#xD;&#xA;2) detachable cable (connected to card reader via micro-USB A or USC C, mini-USB B may also be acceptable)&#xD;&#xA;3) matte case without glossy parts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;preferable:&#xD;&#xA;1) black color (or other dark color)&#xD;&#xA;2) sturdy case (metal or hard plastic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;1) price&#xD;&#xA;2) brand&#xD;&#xA;3) whether any extra functions make it bigger (unless it is bigger than 230W power brick from gaming notebook)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for example, HDD enclosures listed below would fit the bill if they would accept SD cards instead of (or in addition to) 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/inateck-fe2004-usb-3-0-hdd-external-enclosure.html&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/hard-drive-accessories/hdd-enclosures/tool-free-usb-3-0-hdd-enclosure/inateck-usb-3-0-2-5-portable-hdd-enclosure-3port-usb-3-0-hub.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any suggestions for where to look?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="191bbbba-8e4c-41cc-8208-f4dbfe10cc54" CreationDate="2018-03-19T19:28:31.953" UserId="9030" Text="SD card reader with detachable cord and SD card fitting inside" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="191bbbba-8e4c-41cc-8208-f4dbfe10cc54" CreationDate="2018-03-19T19:28:31.953" UserId="9030" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29002" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="d8db4e82-ae17-4e55-9851-b37ea19efa84" CreationDate="2018-03-20T05:41:08.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8985" RevisionGUID="0c68623b-42ff-4d5c-8330-d0963e159e02" CreationDate="2018-03-20T08:51:45.253" UserId="9032" Text="**What I am trying to achieve :**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stream media to my TV using the least possible amount of devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I currently own :**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- A `Western Digital MyCloud Ex 2 Ultra` NAS, and I am somewhat happy/unhappy with it.&#xD;&#xA;- A `Sony PlayStation 4` with the Plex &amp; Netflix apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The problem**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, streaming on the playstation from the NAS using the Plex apps is not really working. 90% of the time the app will say the server is not powerful enough to stream the selected media.&#xD;&#xA;I noticed it happens when I use subtitles. If I don't it works just fine, until I add subtitles then I can never play the media again (even if I remove the sub).&#xD;&#xA;Streaming works like a charm on all other devices in the home, with and without subs, never had any issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leads me to believe the problem is in the playstation app, and all the settings I've changed never had any influence whatsoever.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm still in the legal timeframe to return my NAS with a full refund.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with 3 solutions :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Add yet another device close to the TV specifically for streaming, leaving me with the PS4, the NAS and that new device (3 total).&#xD;&#xA;2. Replace the NAS with one that has an HDMI slot and a decent OS so that I can use that as a storage AND media PC, effectively allowing me to get rid of the console and have 1 computer to rule them all.&#xD;&#xA;3. Do nothing and cry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've went with the 2nd solution, because I'm pretty sure I'm not gonna be able to fix the PS4 Plex app and I really don't want another computer there. So, I know it's not your fault NAS, but you're leaving.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I need from you guys** (finally, the question)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a computer that has the following features :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can browse internet for leisure, as well as download and use software like Plex or Netflix.&#xD;&#xA;- Can be used to download, store and and use .torrent files&#xD;&#xA;- It is or looks like a Windows/Mac OS, so I can actually use that computer for something else locally or remotely if necessary. (can easily be ignored if it does the rest well enough) What I mean is I don't want a cheap UI where I am forced and limited by a proprietary OS ; I'd like the freedom to manage my own folders like I would on Windows/Mac, and the ability to manage my .torrent (store them and use them)&#xD;&#xA;- Streaming HD (up to 1080p 60fps) videos. Big + if future proof and can play up to 4K 60fps videos.&#xD;&#xA;- Has decent storage : 12Tb &lt;  x &lt; 20Tb&#xD;&#xA;- Has at least 2 USB slots for kb &amp; mouse&#xD;&#xA;- Has an ethernet slot&#xD;&#xA;- Is &lt; 1.000€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read synology is the way to go for NAS, yet I had gone with this one because it was cheaper with better reviews. Now that I have used this WD, i realize it's not like a simple windows computer with &quot;just a lot of storage&quot;. The OS is actually a really basic UI accessible via IP and I can only install apps within the WD Store, which is pretty crap, let me tell you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I do not know how other devices will work and if they fit my needs, I do hope you guys can shed some light onto my problem, as my knowledge is lacking here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much for reading this far. I hope you have enough information to answer ; if not, make sure to ask a few questions in the comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8985" RevisionGUID="0c68623b-42ff-4d5c-8330-d0963e159e02" CreationDate="2018-03-20T08:51:45.253" UserId="9032" Text="Media computer / NAS with HDMI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8985" RevisionGUID="0c68623b-42ff-4d5c-8330-d0963e159e02" CreationDate="2018-03-20T08:51:45.253" UserId="9032" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8988" RevisionGUID="fb230c23-c1f7-4dd7-aa30-490d6a1b3d62" CreationDate="2018-03-20T20:12:28.800" UserId="9034" Text="I have a couple of guys with [Furuno GP32's][1] set up like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```GP32 &lt;---&gt; COMPUTER```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a way to insert a multiplexer, or some device in the middle that has the ability to broadcast NMEA data via bluetooth or wifi, so that it looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```GP32 &lt;---&gt; BLUETOOTH BROADCASTING DEVICE &lt;---&gt; COMPUTER```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wiring info and the device info is [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What solutions, or devices would allow me to do this? Thanks for the help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.furuno.com/en/products/chartplotter/GP-32&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.furuno.pl/fileadmin/files/Manuals/8.../GP-32-37_OM_ENG_44200G.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29018" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8988" RevisionGUID="fb230c23-c1f7-4dd7-aa30-490d6a1b3d62" CreationDate="2018-03-20T20:12:28.800" UserId="9034" Text="Furuno GP32 chartplotter with multiplexer bluetooth setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29019" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8988" RevisionGUID="fb230c23-c1f7-4dd7-aa30-490d6a1b3d62" CreationDate="2018-03-20T20:12:28.800" UserId="9034" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29022" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="43f56cb1-a53d-45b5-ab76-92f3c37cb766" CreationDate="2018-03-21T12:46:53.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29023" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8989" RevisionGUID="db11bac0-3cfd-41ce-8fe3-e22cf1c87bfa" CreationDate="2018-03-21T13:12:34.810" UserId="9039" Text="I own a MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF with an standard HDD. I want to upgrade it with a new SSD but my question is: does it support **an additional** SSD or have I to **replace** its current HDD with a new SSD? And which form factor should I look for when shopping?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a similar question [here][1] but I'm not sure is the model are fully compatible nor if the asker will be able to have 2 drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the 3rd response of [this thread][2] talks about a &quot;combo&quot; slot but again I'm not sure if that answers my question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1952/additional-ssd-for-msi-ge62-apache-pro&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=289610.0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29024" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8989" RevisionGUID="db11bac0-3cfd-41ce-8fe3-e22cf1c87bfa" CreationDate="2018-03-21T13:12:34.810" UserId="9039" Text="Upgrading my laptop MSI HDD to SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29025" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8989" RevisionGUID="db11bac0-3cfd-41ce-8fe3-e22cf1c87bfa" CreationDate="2018-03-21T13:12:34.810" UserId="9039" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29026" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8990" RevisionGUID="f5a2372b-64c2-4372-84c1-2a4cef58ee25" CreationDate="2018-03-21T14:40:58.023" UserId="6475" Text="#Answers up front:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;does it support an additional SSD or have I to replace its current HDD with a new SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, you should* be able to install an M.2 SSD alongside your current HDD (see below). You can also replace the current 2.5 inch HDD with a 2.5 inch SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;And which form factor should I look for when shopping?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The M.2 SSD and 2.5 inch HDD / SSD / SSHD form factors are compatible with your laptop. I do not recommend SSHD &quot;hybrid&quot; drives, they're extra money for no real world gain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Explanation and source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a nicely detailed teardown I found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.laptopmain.com/msi-gp62mvr-6rf-leopard-pro-disassembly-and-ram-hdd-ssd-upgrade-options/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm operating under the assumption that you have a &quot;MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF&quot; *PRO*, as I can't find any info on other models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the picture in the link, your laptop supports a 2.5 inch standard form factor HDD / SSD as well as an M.2 SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems to me that if you took the HDD option, the M.2 slot will be empty. You can pop off the bottom of the laptop and check for yourself. If this is the case, you can definitely order a compatible M.2 SSD and install it fairly easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Part Recommendation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be happy to help you pick out a specific component if you can confirm that you have the &quot;PRO&quot; model of the laptop for me. Don't want to waste time researching for the wrong model laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29028" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8988" RevisionGUID="f4a27a33-7b10-43ad-b1af-d7a24d6139f5" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:14:20.753" UserId="9034" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="I have a couple of guys with [Furuno GP32's][1] set up like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```GP32 &lt;---&gt; COMPUTER```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a way to insert a multiplexer, or some device in the middle that has the ability to broadcast NMEA data via bluetooth or wifi, so that it looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```GP32 &lt;---&gt; BLUETOOTH BROADCASTING DEVICE &lt;---&gt; COMPUTER```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wiring info and the device info is [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What solutions, or devices would allow me to do this? Thanks for the help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.furuno.com/en/products/chartplotter/GP-32&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.furuno.pl/fileadmin/files/Manuals/8_GPS_Plotter_ECDIS/GP-32/Old/GP-32-37_OM_ENG_44200G.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8991" RevisionGUID="2ce40b5c-2989-4833-b770-412b6861d2e3" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:32:02.410" UserId="1115" Text="I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ41. You can see [images I took](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma) online, but to summarize:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to take images of&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Animals](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Animals): Super hard at the moment, many of my images are blurry.&#xD;&#xA;* [Landscapes](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Landscapes)&#xD;&#xA;* [Plants](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Plants)&#xD;&#xA;* [Food](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Food)&#xD;&#xA;* [City Tourism](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Barcelona)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What is important to me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Sharp images**: Especially for animal images, I had to throw away a lot.&#xD;&#xA;* **Size**: Not too bulky - it should fit in the side bag of my Deuter Air Contact 55+10&#xD;&#xA;  (like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ40); I don't care about weight&#xD;&#xA;* **Colors**: Some of my landscape images grayish&#xD;&#xA;* **Grip**: I want to be able to make selfies with it&#xD;&#xA;* **On/off**: Similar to the grip one - I don't want to accidentially turn it on / off.&#xD;&#xA;* **Price** should at maximum be 700 EUR. Rather something like 500 EUR, but more&#xD;&#xA;  than 300 EUR is fine.&#xD;&#xA;* **Battery life**: I want to be able to have the camera with me for a day with one&#xD;&#xA;  battery. So I guess something like 150 shots should easily be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* GPS: I like when my images are geo-tagged.&#xD;&#xA;* Panorama: Either it should be very good or I don't need it. The Panorama function of the TZ41 is not worth it. I have a smartphone (Samsung S7) as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What is not important&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Touch screen&#xD;&#xA;* NFC&#xD;&#xA;* Video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Candidates&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my initial research, I have the impression the following cameras could fit my need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ100&#xD;&#xA;* Sony Cyber-shot RX100 IV&#xD;&#xA;* Sony Cyber-shot RX100 III&#xD;&#xA;* G7 X Mark II&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I don't want to exclude other cameras; it's just what I found so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am, however, not sure which one would be best and if the improvement is that much compared to my current Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ41. What did change to the TZ100? What should I look for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8991" RevisionGUID="2ce40b5c-2989-4833-b770-412b6861d2e3" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:32:02.410" UserId="1115" Text="Compact camera for hiking and city tourists" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8991" RevisionGUID="2ce40b5c-2989-4833-b770-412b6861d2e3" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:32:02.410" UserId="1115" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8991" RevisionGUID="a192ad60-2fc2-4ce9-a660-da5d8aff44c3" CreationDate="2018-03-21T20:25:05.253" UserId="1115" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ41. You can see [images I took](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma) online, but to summarize:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to take / took images of&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Animals](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Animals): Super hard at the moment, many of my images are blurry.&#xD;&#xA;* [Landscapes](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Landscapes)&#xD;&#xA;* [Plants](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Plants)&#xD;&#xA;* [Food](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Food)&#xD;&#xA;* [City Tourism](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images_by_Martin_Thoma/Barcelona)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What is important to me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Sharp images**: Especially for animal images, I had to throw away a lot.&#xD;&#xA;* **Size**: Not too bulky - it should fit in the side bag of my Deuter Air Contact 55+10&#xD;&#xA;  (like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ40); I don't care about weight&#xD;&#xA;* **Colors**: Some of my landscape images grayish&#xD;&#xA;* **Grip**: I want to be able to make selfies with it&#xD;&#xA;* **On/off**: Similar to the grip one - I don't want to accidentially turn it on / off.&#xD;&#xA;* **Price** should at maximum be 700 EUR. Rather something like 500 EUR, but more&#xD;&#xA;  than 300 EUR is fine.&#xD;&#xA;* **Battery life**: I want to be able to have the camera with me for a day with one&#xD;&#xA;  battery. So I guess something like 150 shots should easily be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* GPS: I like when my images are geo-tagged.&#xD;&#xA;* Panorama: Either it should be very good or I don't need it. The Panorama function of the TZ41 is not worth it. I have a smartphone (Samsung S7) as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What is not important&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Touch screen&#xD;&#xA;* NFC&#xD;&#xA;* Video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Candidates&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my initial research, I have the impression the following cameras could fit my need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ100&#xD;&#xA;* Sony Cyber-shot RX100 IV&#xD;&#xA;* Sony Cyber-shot RX100 III&#xD;&#xA;* G7 X Mark II&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that I don't want to exclude other cameras; it's just what I found so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am, however, not sure which one would be best and if the improvement is that much compared to my current Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ41. What did change to the TZ100? What should I look for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8992" RevisionGUID="e6c22e5c-08b5-4d3a-9e13-5b159cecd220" CreationDate="2018-03-21T21:50:05.097" UserId="9047" Text="I want to find a tiny camera or camera module that can stream its videos via Bluetooth or other wireless technology. I want to use that camera as an accessory that can be attached to a body part. The video quality is not important. Important is that I can stream the videos with a mobile device via wireless technology while carrying this camera as an accessory. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. You can also suggest two separate parts that I could put together to achieve this goal, e.g. camera and bluetooth module separately." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29034" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8992" RevisionGUID="e6c22e5c-08b5-4d3a-9e13-5b159cecd220" CreationDate="2018-03-21T21:50:05.097" UserId="9047" Text="Portable camera with bluetooth or some other wireless technology support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29035" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8992" RevisionGUID="e6c22e5c-08b5-4d3a-9e13-5b159cecd220" CreationDate="2018-03-21T21:50:05.097" UserId="9047" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8994" RevisionGUID="796e274a-1ae9-402c-a783-3ed208a7ca92" CreationDate="2018-03-21T22:35:21.227" UserId="6089" Text="Not Bluetooth, but wifi, therefore it qualifies for &quot;other wireless technology, the &quot;aiball&quot; camera comes in as a candidate. Available on [Amazon][1], as well as a few other locations, it doesn't come in with high praises via the reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![aiball camera][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's the better part of this answer. Once you visit the Amazon link, you see other small wireless cameras that may give you the solution in a better manner than the aiball cam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Smallest-camera-Ai-ball-supply-Cradle/dp/B00AYO96I4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCMS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8995" RevisionGUID="9996ac26-fa2d-4f27-8a51-94346dd1947d" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:13:08.457" UserId="7991" Text="I am making my own case and wish to have the motherboard mounted with an angle 'forward' so that the motherboard would be hanging somewhat more than in the regular 90 degree mounting position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have some worries about this causing strain on the motherboard, and how this may affect it on the long term (say 3-4 years of usage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't be using a big cooling radiator, rather I will mount a water cooling block (which may or may not put more strain on it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have thoughts about this, is it something I can do without too much worrying or is it wiser to avoid such a construction?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29043" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="8995" RevisionGUID="9996ac26-fa2d-4f27-8a51-94346dd1947d" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:13:08.457" UserId="7991" Text="Tilted motherboard (45 degrees) - is it safe for the long term?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29044" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="8995" RevisionGUID="9996ac26-fa2d-4f27-8a51-94346dd1947d" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:13:08.457" UserId="7991" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8995" RevisionGUID="607fe99c-5113-45a4-b586-e94da679173a" CreationDate="2018-03-22T15:55:07.460" UserId="7991" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I am making my own case and wish to have the motherboard mounted with an angle 'forward' so that the motherboard would be hanging somewhat more than in the regular 90 degree mounting position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have some worries about this causing strain on the motherboard, and how this may affect it on the long term (say 2 years of 24/7 usage).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't be using a big cooling radiator, rather I will mount a water cooling block (which may or may not put more strain on it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have thoughts about this, is it something I can do without too much worrying or is it wiser to avoid such a construction?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8996" RevisionGUID="92ab56bf-5cba-4f57-85f6-07e08fd17562" CreationDate="2018-03-22T16:51:59.020" UserId="6089" Text="Your question might be more of an engineering line of reasoning, but it's still hardware related. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider the mounting points for your mainboard. They are &quot;scattered&quot; around the board based on standards for case mount placement. They are almost certainly engineered to take stress from the components on the board and transfer that to the stand-offs attached to the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that configuration, the forces are more-or-less evenly distributed over the mainboard, perhaps with additional mount holes near high-load areas such as the processor and heat sink assembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have assembled a couple computer boards which did not have stand-offs in the case but had mounting holes. This was a flaw or failure in the case engineering but had little effect on the installation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your case, literally and figuratively, you would want to ensure that every mounting hole was properly secured and supported the board. If your intent is to secure the mainboard only at the edges, I would suggest that is contra-indicated. To secure all of the points, it would be necessary to build &quot;branches&quot; from behind the board to secure where possible, or in front of the board, providing support from either side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best support will be provided by branches that are perpendicular to the mainboard. Those that are not would allow some flex in the structure. If one cannot create a perpendicular-to-the-board branch, one should consider both a vertical and a horizontal branch joined at the mount point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not suggest that it is &quot;wiser&quot; to avoid such a construction, as the other factors for this design have not been referenced." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29051" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="8b7bd7ab-b0c9-450f-b9d5-5c8fadb677df" CreationDate="2018-03-23T00:00:49.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29052" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7923" RevisionGUID="ea150242-f22b-4616-ad47-19c9c175c552" CreationDate="2018-03-23T01:00:49.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29053" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="c75adcee-bdac-4782-b82b-9c88f8984a5e" CreationDate="2018-03-23T02:00:50.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29054" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="0617ae74-d8e0-45ea-ad07-ee69b4705525" CreationDate="2018-03-23T03:01:44.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29055" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="5a7e28b5-e6e3-48c0-b5a6-32e5bd693c05" CreationDate="2018-03-23T10:01:30.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29056" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8995" RevisionGUID="412cb10f-9c7c-42a3-8ed3-f09b64a28727" CreationDate="2018-03-23T16:51:46.540" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29057" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="8998" RevisionGUID="1e49b284-cfa3-40ca-99d9-ac5dc1638cc0" CreationDate="2018-03-23T20:20:34.733" UserId="1921" Text="I suggest your better off building a PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case with 3  5.25 bays are easy to come by.  I have a SSD enclosure that fits into a 5.25 bay that holds 4 SSD.  Also using 2x 5.25 bays you can easily have room for 2 or even 3 regular hdd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 hdd per raid limits you to striping or mirroring and some motherboards have built in controllers which can handle these modes easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pcie card for 10gb, you can even have a dual or quad card.&#xD;&#xA;pcie card for thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if you go crazy your budget makes this project easy.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;$800 for amd x1800, 16gb, and asus x370-pro (which even has a M.2 ssd port for 2gb/s)&#xD;&#xA;$200 for a case,psu, removeable hdd enclosure and ssd 4x in 5.25bay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$150 for a slight older intel dual 10gb card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$600 for an adaptec 7805(or similar) raid controller.(because I got money to burn)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessory/ThunderboltEX-3/&#xD;&#xA;$79  https://www.cdw.com/product/ASUS-ThunderboltEX-3-Thunderbolt-adapter/4259577?cm_cat=GoogleBase&amp;cm_ite=4259577&amp;cm_pla=NA-NA-ASU_IN&amp;cm_ven=acquirgy&amp;ef_id=WdOaEAAAAIMrZiAP:20180323201802:s&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cfe9KGD2gIVD4rICh2-WguNEAkYASABEgLEaPD_BwE&amp;s_kwcid=AL!4223!3!198553132221!!!g!315976140630!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$100 for any low end video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------&#xD;&#xA;Still have money left, party time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8998" RevisionGUID="2747f0f5-9af9-408b-8616-45ef32efbe08" CreationDate="2018-03-23T20:29:17.293" UserId="1921" Comment="added 61 characters in body" Text="&gt; The drives will be purchased separately from the NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suggest your better off building a PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Case with 3  5.25 bays are easy to come by.  I have a SSD enclosure that fits into a 5.25 bay that holds 4 SSD.  Also using 2x 5.25 bays you can easily have room for 2 or even 3 regular hdd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 hdd per raid limits you to striping or mirroring and some motherboards have built in controllers which can handle these modes easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;pcie card for 10gb, you can even have a dual or quad card.&#xD;&#xA;pcie card for thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if you go crazy your budget makes this project easy.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;$800 for amd x1800, 16gb, and asus x370-pro (which even has a M.2 ssd port for 2gb/s)&#xD;&#xA;$200 for a case,psu, removeable hdd enclosure and ssd 4x in 5.25bay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$150 for a slight older intel dual 10gb card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$600 for an adaptec 7805(or similar) raid controller.(because I got money to burn)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessory/ThunderboltEX-3/&#xD;&#xA;$79  https://www.cdw.com/product/ASUS-ThunderboltEX-3-Thunderbolt-adapter/4259577?cm_cat=GoogleBase&amp;cm_ite=4259577&amp;cm_pla=NA-NA-ASU_IN&amp;cm_ven=acquirgy&amp;ef_id=WdOaEAAAAIMrZiAP:20180323201802:s&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cfe9KGD2gIVD4rICh2-WguNEAkYASABEgLEaPD_BwE&amp;s_kwcid=AL!4223!3!198553132221!!!g!315976140630!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$100 for any low end video card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------&#xD;&#xA;Still have money left, party time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9000" RevisionGUID="9579c2cf-8d3a-4c02-bcd6-a939eb7febb9" CreationDate="2018-03-24T17:43:03.277" UserId="7722" Text="There are Easter Revision Sessions coming up and I can't write well so I am looking for something tablet/laptop that I will be able to write in. I also aim to use this for work for the next two years, as I need something inexpensive to take into school to write for Sixth Form.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It needs to be cheap enough (under £100 but I can stretch just over *reluctantly*) so that I can take it in, I don't want to take something very expensive in case it gets lost/damaged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I also require it to be small and lightweight enough that I will be able to walk it to school every day and for it to fit in my bag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It needs to come with some form of a keyboard. If the device does not already have one then I will have to purchase one which will have to be compensated in the cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It needs to have WiFi as I will be using Google Docs for the work. This means that it can have a low internal storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It doesn't need to be that powerful, just enough that I am able to get my work done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A USB port as an optional extra, but this is not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* It needs a decent battery life because I will be using it for several hours, and a plug may not always be present all of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also needs to be purchasable in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29064" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9000" RevisionGUID="9579c2cf-8d3a-4c02-bcd6-a939eb7febb9" CreationDate="2018-03-24T17:43:03.277" UserId="7722" Text="Cheap device to take to school for light work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29065" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9000" RevisionGUID="9579c2cf-8d3a-4c02-bcd6-a939eb7febb9" CreationDate="2018-03-24T17:43:03.277" UserId="7722" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29066" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="1628c50b-bed8-432a-9482-b85372c39c35" CreationDate="2018-03-24T18:19:39.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29067" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="ef202a97-88cf-4b04-9512-05da673a5eba" CreationDate="2018-03-24T21:21:24.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29068" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6809" RevisionGUID="e7dfe812-30fb-4ed8-88ef-593adeec4c0e" CreationDate="2018-03-25T11:21:26.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9001" RevisionGUID="35203aee-e6ab-44d3-9862-2cd6ac310a3b" CreationDate="2018-03-25T14:15:22.860" UserId="9065" Text="I am studying software development and I need a laptop which can survive around 4 / 5 hours or more of coding(using internet,stackoverflow,codeblocks/visual studio etc).I also consider learning the Swift language(I heard that it is hard to do without a mac) but I am not 100% sure about it.I have around 1300-1600 dollars(1000-1250 euros).So I will be glad to hear your recommendations on what should I look for. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9001" RevisionGUID="35203aee-e6ab-44d3-9862-2cd6ac310a3b" CreationDate="2018-03-25T14:15:22.860" UserId="9065" Text="Advice on laptop for software development around 1300$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9001" RevisionGUID="35203aee-e6ab-44d3-9862-2cd6ac310a3b" CreationDate="2018-03-25T14:15:22.860" UserId="9065" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9002" RevisionGUID="195286f0-f19c-4a83-a547-663436471570" CreationDate="2018-03-25T16:21:38.513" UserId="1004" Text="I'm thinking about getting a cheap PC I can pack with lots of RAM and play with Hyper-V a little more at home rather than bogging down my main **Windows** PC, and since my other **Windows** PC is Home Edition.  I saw a cheap priced **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** with a 16 GB configuration and **Windows 10 Pro** on **Amazon** that looks sufficient. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the [HP Compaq Pro 6300 Small Form Factor PC Specifications](https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6) the **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** PC contains 4 slots and shows an example in the chart of a 16 GB configuration but also states &quot;*Not all memory configurations possible are represented below*&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Memory specifications](https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; -&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; *Slot 1 is black and must always be populated. Not all memory configurations possible are represented below:*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; **Memory configurations**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone confirm the other non-listed memory configurations that have worked with success with the **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** running **Windows 10 Pro**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not looking for a full list of all configurations not listed in the chart since I'm more interested in configurations it'll supports with over 16 GB of RAM. For example is it possible pack in two 8 GB or three or even four and what would not work, or what is working for someone else with this same specific make and model hardware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrgUy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9002" RevisionGUID="195286f0-f19c-4a83-a547-663436471570" CreationDate="2018-03-25T16:21:38.513" UserId="1004" Text="Maximization of a Ram Hardware Configuration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9002" RevisionGUID="195286f0-f19c-4a83-a547-663436471570" CreationDate="2018-03-25T16:21:38.513" UserId="1004" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29075" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9002" RevisionGUID="7f1f43e7-379c-448b-8637-46b135a57229" CreationDate="2018-03-25T17:49:55.377" UserId="1004" Comment="added 117 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking about getting a cheap PC I can pack with lots of RAM and play with Hyper-V a little more at home rather than bogging down my main **Windows** PC, and since my other **Windows** PC is Home Edition.  I saw a cheap priced **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** with a 16 GB configuration and **Windows 10 Pro** on **Amazon** that looks sufficient. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to the [HP Compaq Pro 6300 Small Form Factor PC Specifications](https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6) the **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** PC contains 4 slots and shows an example in the chart of a 16 GB configuration but also states &quot;*Not all memory configurations possible are represented below*&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Memory specifications](https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; -&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; *Slot 1 is black and must always be populated. Not all memory configurations possible are represented below:*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; **Memory configurations**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone confirm the other non-listed memory configurations that have worked with success with the **HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor** running **Windows 10 Pro**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm not looking for a full list of all configurations not listed in the chart since I'm more interested in configurations it'll support with over 16 GB of RAM. For example is it possible pack in two 8 GB or three or even four and what would not work slot wise, or what is working for someone else with this same specific make and model hardware and their greater than 16 GB configuration and any special UEFI/BIOS settings to make such a setup possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrgUy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29076" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="ce925a28-373f-4480-ac1c-ddaaca4acad4" CreationDate="2018-03-25T22:24:52.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29077" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="df7ab77c-e918-43d2-bbc1-758e649a55cd" CreationDate="2018-03-26T00:25:47.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29082" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="74e762d4-cdfa-40c0-99e1-13711127153c" CreationDate="2018-03-26T04:01:51.873" UserId="5449" Comment="added 152 characters in body; edited title" Text="I drop my iPhone 6 a lot but also need that extended battery. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a life proof that has a battery or that fits on top of the Apple Battery Case?  Alternatively a battery case that is near indestructible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: So this question was originally about iPhone 7, but I have edited to be the iPhone 6s/6(so that I could answer the question) with my solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29083" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="74e762d4-cdfa-40c0-99e1-13711127153c" CreationDate="2018-03-26T04:01:51.873" UserId="5449" Comment="added 152 characters in body; edited title" Text="Drop resistant iPhone 6 battery case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9003" RevisionGUID="3f9a5c73-1dd8-4b94-80eb-9d07c081cd2b" CreationDate="2018-03-26T04:02:51.213" UserId="5449" Text="So I ended up buying a 6s for now and buying a SnowLizard 6 case for the phone.  The battery is excellent with the case and I can plug my on headphones in when needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29086" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8872" RevisionGUID="b029d59d-e946-488f-99a1-faa87536a87e" CreationDate="2018-03-26T04:07:51.587" UserId="5449" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I drop my iPhone 6 a lot but also need that extended battery and wired headphones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a life proof that has a battery or that fits on top of the Apple Battery Case?  Alternatively a battery case that is near indestructible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: So this question was originally about iPhone 7, but I have edited to be the iPhone 6s/6(so that I could answer the question) with my solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9004" RevisionGUID="c38e2e93-7943-4c1f-88de-26968c4a62d3" CreationDate="2018-03-26T05:37:33.607" UserId="6047" Text="Summary&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;£100 is a pretty tight constraint, so I won't be able to pull into too many bells and whistles into this recommendation. What I managed to get as a baseline along these three tablets is **32 eMMC internal storage** and **2 gb of RAM**. I've recommended products you could purchase today that should be available to you in the UK. The only differences between these tablets is the CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Option 1: Slowest&#xD;&#xA; - Option 2: Slightly Better&#xD;&#xA; - Option 3: Significantly Better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheapest Option: Onda V80 SE Tablet £71.85 @ [Newegg][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Onda V80 SE Tablet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tablet features Android 5.1 and based on [it's review][3] it features a older Intel Atom Z3735F Quad Core (Release: Apr, 2014). It's [benchmarks][4] indicate this it will operate slower than any of the 3 options, meaning it will be the least &quot;snappy&quot; when used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Slightly Better Option: Onda V80 Plus £90.60 @ [Newegg][5]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Onda V80 Plus][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tablet features Android 5.1 + Windows 10 (I would recommend using the Android OS unless you need the additional features of Windows). It is functionally the same as the previous option, but with 2 OS's and a slightly better processor, &#xD;&#xA;Intel x5-Z8350 (Release: Jan, 2016) (it's Passmark score suggests it will perform about 26.5% better than the previous option). You might even want to consider uninstalling the Windows operating system for a little more space as it doesn't sound like the extra functionality is worth the performance hit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget Stretcher: Teclast P10 £98.99 @ [Newegg][7]&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most powerful of the Tablet options and using the newer Android 7.1 OS, this tablet will stretch your budget, however it is marginally more powerful ([according to benchmarks][9]). It's cpu (RK 3368-H) Passmark score suggest it will perform about 2.6x better than the Onda Plus option. This option will be the &quot;snappiest&quot; and unlike the previous Onda Plus option, won't come with the wasted space of Windows 10. Consider this option if you want the most bang for buck performance wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard: Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ [Newegg][10]&#xD;&#xA;--------&#xD;&#xA;[![Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ ][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;None of the tablets I curated came with keyboards, most likely because of the low end price restriction. It's a cheap blue-tooth keyboard, weighs less than 300 grams and will get the job done. It also comes with a mouse if you don't feel like touching your screen. This will unfortunately put, option 3 slightly over budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAG56NT2967&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmSRZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.androidcrush.com/onda-v80-se-tablet-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-x5-Z8350-vs-Intel-Atom-Z3735F&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8039&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbQyH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8103&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvJs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.androidbenchmark.net/phone.php?phone=Rockchip%20rk3368-box&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD8F6ME3049&amp;cm_re=bluetooth_keyboard-_-9SIAD8F6ME3049-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlb1c.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9004" RevisionGUID="02bc4167-39c9-45f7-b49d-9b39e9189246" CreationDate="2018-03-26T05:46:16.967" UserId="6047" Comment="Math regarding prices" Text="Summary&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;£100 is a pretty tight constraint, so I won't be able to pull into too many bells and whistles into this recommendation. What I managed to get as a baseline along these three tablets is **32 eMMC internal storage** and **2 gb of RAM**. I've recommended products you could purchase today that should be available to you in the UK. The only differences between these tablets is the CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Option 1: Slowest&#xD;&#xA; - Option 2: Slightly Better&#xD;&#xA; - Option 3: Significantly Better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheapest Option: Onda V80 SE Tablet £71.85 @ [Newegg][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Onda V80 SE Tablet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tablet features Android 5.1 and based on [it's review][3] it features a older Intel Atom Z3735F Quad Core (Release: Apr, 2014). It's [benchmarks][4] indicate this it will operate slower than any of the 3 options, meaning it will be the least &quot;snappy&quot; when used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Slightly Better Option: Onda V80 Plus £90.60 @ [Newegg][5]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Onda V80 Plus][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tablet features Android 5.1 + Windows 10 (I would recommend using the Android OS unless you need the additional features of Windows). It is functionally the same as the previous option, but with 2 OS's and a slightly better processor, &#xD;&#xA;Intel x5-Z8350 (Release: Jan, 2016) (it's Passmark score suggests it will perform about 26.5% better than the previous option). You might even want to consider uninstalling the Windows operating system for a little more space as it doesn't sound like the extra functionality is worth the performance hit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget Stretcher: Teclast P10 £98.99 @ [Newegg][7]&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most powerful of the Tablet options and using the newer Android 7.1 OS, this tablet will stretch your budget, however it is marginally more powerful ([according to benchmarks][9]). It's cpu (RK 3368-H) Passmark score suggest it will perform about 2.6x better than the Onda Plus option. This option will be the &quot;snappiest&quot; and unlike the previous Onda Plus option, won't come with the wasted space of Windows 10. Consider this option if you want the most bang for buck performance wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard: Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ [Newegg][10]&#xD;&#xA;--------&#xD;&#xA;[![Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ ][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;None of the tablets I curated came with keyboards, most likely because of the low end price restriction. It's a cheap blue-tooth keyboard, weighs less than 300 grams and will get the job done. It also comes with a mouse if you don't feel like touching your screen. This will unfortunately put, option 2/3 slightly over budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAG56NT2967&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmSRZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.androidcrush.com/onda-v80-se-tablet-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-x5-Z8350-vs-Intel-Atom-Z3735F&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8039&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbQyH.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8103&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvJs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.androidbenchmark.net/phone.php?phone=Rockchip%20rk3368-box&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD8F6ME3049&amp;cm_re=bluetooth_keyboard-_-9SIAD8F6ME3049-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlb1c.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9006" RevisionGUID="88798de9-6ecc-4241-b941-266e64832f15" CreationDate="2018-03-26T09:49:43.093" UserId="9071" Text="I am about to buy a laptop, nothing too powerful, but good enough to program on it. Linux will be the system and i will do android, c/c++ ,python... But no advanced graphics. I found few laptops and main difference between them is processor. Some have Intel Mobile Pentium N3710 and some Intel Mobile Pentium N4200. Could someone give any recommendations on which processor to go for, considering above requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9006" RevisionGUID="88798de9-6ecc-4241-b941-266e64832f15" CreationDate="2018-03-26T09:49:43.093" UserId="9071" Text="Intel Mobile Pentium N3710 vs N4200 processor for laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9006" RevisionGUID="88798de9-6ecc-4241-b941-266e64832f15" CreationDate="2018-03-26T09:49:43.093" UserId="9071" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9008" RevisionGUID="f29e7f3d-0861-4335-9de1-6cb53dbecfd1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T21:30:12.787" UserId="45" Text="I'm looking for a smartphone for an elderly person who is familiar with PCs (and is a long-time Linux user), but has not used a mobile phone before. They tried a basic phone and found the screen too small and the interface too unwieldy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The anticipated use of the phone is primarily as a telephone, perhaps to send and receive SMS, to listen to the radio, and some web browsing. Photography and games are not relevant. Other uses may be discovered when they have the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not a primary concern, but a low-end phone is preferred so that it says “not worth stealing”, not “mug me”. The phone will be bought and used in France.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As light as possible. This is more important than battery life.&#xD;&#xA;* Not too damage-prone, as long as it doesn't increase the weight.&#xD;&#xA;* FM radio.&#xD;&#xA;* Android, without fancy OEM software. The phone is likely going to run whatever OS the manufacturer has put on it, not some mod. It must be sold with, or at least upgradable to, at least Nougat 7.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Size is a bit of an unknown because it's difficult to relate until you have the object in hand. But it needs to be easy to hold in one hand and to fit in a reasonable-sized pocket, so smaller is better (up to a point where the screen is too small).&#xD;&#xA;* A removable battery is strongly preferred.&#xD;&#xA;* The possibility of using a stylus would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonable perspectives for Android upgrades. The user does not want to change their phone all the time.&#xD;&#xA;* While I think the device will run the original OS, the possibility of improving privacy guards and ad blocking may be a reason to root the device.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29108" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9008" RevisionGUID="f29e7f3d-0861-4335-9de1-6cb53dbecfd1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T21:30:12.787" UserId="45" Text="Easy-to-use Android phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29109" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9008" RevisionGUID="f29e7f3d-0861-4335-9de1-6cb53dbecfd1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T21:30:12.787" UserId="45" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9010" RevisionGUID="cf77c507-d854-4753-9706-9873dbd4e961" CreationDate="2018-03-27T03:01:49.767" UserId="531" Text="I suspect its a *little* too small but at least in theory the [unihertz jelly pro][1] probably checks off *most* of your boxes. I have the non pro version, and have had to use it as a primary phone for short periods of time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; budget armoured up oneplus 3 for scale.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's the jelly compared to a fairly standard 5.5 inch phone/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its a bit on the fat size but very light - I have it as a backup phone and fits in a jeans coin pocket with the optional rubber case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its all plastic, right down to the screen - this actually makes it more drop resistant than many fancy modern phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Runs a fairly stock android, with 7.0 out of the box &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Replacable and removable battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.4 inch screen - its a bit on the small side but works alright even with fairly big hands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No stylus but *any* capasitive stylus should work, and you get one for a few dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how long unihertz intends to support the jelly for but there's a planned 8.1 update, and it ships with 7.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Camera is *terrible* but I run it as a secondary phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My dad uses his and... is slightly ambivalent towards it so it might be a *little* too small. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.unihertz.com/store/product/jelly-pro/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JurEg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9011" RevisionGUID="ecf78334-0811-4ad6-bbdd-800e574a80ca" CreationDate="2018-03-27T03:09:58.280" UserId="531" Text="I've not run this *specific* model before but I've had good experiences with Xiaomi - and they have an android one model this year. Even if you don't go with a xiaomi - android one phones are likely to be what you're looking for. They're essentially &quot;Google&quot; phones like the nexus and pixel series, but designed to be cheaper and stripped down, with a mostly stock google experience and a fairly typical 3 year upgrade cycle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cons here? The 1a's an *[iphone clone][1]* design wise, with a stock android experience. It probably looks more expensive than it is. Its got an aluminum body, a fingerprint scanner and more or less most of the features you'd find in a older flagship phone. It even does USB C. No removable battery but that's a pretty uncommon feature&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The pros? Xiomi's hardware is pretty good - I've got a xiomi 1s that's still running years on, and since its android one, you get a mostly stock android experience *optimised* for an older phone. And 5.5 inches is pretty much the 'sweet spot' for a modern phone, and its big enough for most things. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2018/03/xiaomi-mi-a1-review-a-220-iphone-clone-with-stock-android-sign-us-up/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9012" RevisionGUID="f64e07b7-f846-46a5-859e-da831ad7b1b0" CreationDate="2018-03-27T04:36:34.757" UserId="6047" Text="## Summary ##&#xD;&#xA;When it comes to considering processors directly, my preferred method of doing so is evaluating their online [benchmarks][1]. This allows you to rank processors relative to each other quite easily without actually having them on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In general, it looks like the N4200 is going to be the better choice as Intel's MSRP appraisal of both processors is the same at exactly $161.00**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Straight line performance ##&#xD;&#xA;Some of the immediate differences between the N4200 (Released Jan 2016) and N3710 (Released July 2016) is that the N4200:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Real world performance is about 50% better** than the N3710 according to it's PassMark score.&#xD;&#xA; - Ultimately **outperforms the N3710 in all common benchmarking software**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Power Consumption ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of power consumption, each processor is estimated to cost about 1.25$/year, so there is **no effective difference in power consumption**, However; the N4200 will output about **12.8% more performance per watt** making it more efficient than the N3710 variant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Memory Support ##&#xD;&#xA;According to the official Intel spec sheets of the respective processors [\[N4200 here\]][2], [\[N3710 here\]][3]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that the N4200 is equipped to handle DDR3L/LPDDR3 up to 1866 MT/s, and LPDDR4 up to 2400 MT/s, while the N3710 only supports DDR3L-1600. This means that the newer **N4200 processors will be able to handle newer RAM types with faster timings**. This will effect the effective application load in speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interestingly enough, however; the **N3710 supports twice the Maximum memory bandwidth.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Special Considerations ##&#xD;&#xA;CPUBoss reports that **the N3710 is capable of being pushed further via Overclocking than the N4200 by nearly (45.5% by air, difference is nominal if you are using water cooling (7%))**. This is only applicable if your motherboard supports overclocking, or whether there are any linux based programs that you can control your processor speed from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-N4200-vs-Intel-N3710&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/95592/Intel-Pentium-Processor-N4200-2M-Cache-up-to-2_5-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/91830/Intel-Pentium-Processor-N3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_56-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9013" RevisionGUID="06e1b70a-671b-4d3a-a1aa-9652ac06cbcd" CreationDate="2018-03-27T05:19:41.117" UserId="9030" Text="Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD seems to fit all my requirements (yet to buy it to find out for sure), although it is almost as big as 2.5&quot; HDD enclosure and costs over $50 (former drawback is more important for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so my search continues with added criteria: &#xD;&#xA;smaller than Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD and without XQD slot, or with USB type C connector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29119" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="675cacfb-87a5-4c6c-a32c-e0b81c216cd1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T05:23:25.857" UserId="9030" Comment="formatting, change of criterias as follow-up to my own answer" Text="mandatory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) full-sized SD card does not stick out of card reader's case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) detachable cable (connected to card reader via micro-USB A or USC C, mini-USB B may also be acceptable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) matte case without glossy parts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;preferable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) black color (or other dark color)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) sturdy case (metal or hard plastic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) whether any extra functions make it bigger (unless it is bigger than 230W power brick from gaming notebook) EDIT: now want it to be smaller than Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for example, HDD enclosures listed below would fit the bill if they would accept SD cards instead of (or in addition to) 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/inateck-fe2004-usb-3-0-hdd-external-enclosure.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/hard-drive-accessories/hdd-enclosures/tool-free-usb-3-0-hdd-enclosure/inateck-usb-3-0-2-5-portable-hdd-enclosure-3port-usb-3-0-hub.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any suggestions for where to look for it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9013" RevisionGUID="8131dc19-85ce-4f58-9a80-bbdfdbce758e" CreationDate="2018-03-27T05:25:48.547" UserId="9030" Comment="added optional criteria" Text="Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD seems to fit all my requirements (yet to buy it to find out for sure), although it is almost as big as 2.5&quot; HDD enclosure and costs over $50 (former drawback is more important for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so my search continues with added criteria: &#xD;&#xA;smaller than Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD and without XQD slot, or with USB type C connector, or docking station / port replicator that has full-sized SD slot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29121" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7168" RevisionGUID="43447fc7-2075-44d7-987b-748ce410395d" CreationDate="2018-03-27T06:31:54.477" UserId="378" Comment="deleted 23 characters in body" Text="I need an Android phone for long bicycle trips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Long battery lifetime (at least 12 hours with frequent GPS &amp; camera usage, the longer the better)&#xD;&#xA;2. Small enough to fit in trousers pocket&#xD;&#xA;3. Rather good GPS&#xD;&#xA;4. Rather robust, as it might fall a few times&#xD;&#xA;5. Rather good camera (mostly daytime landscapes)&#xD;&#xA;6. Price: Hopefully less than 500 EUR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9008" RevisionGUID="b4116d86-a6d2-4b6f-adab-a10a07e6bfae" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:34:40.773" UserId="45" Comment="explain &quot;basic phone&quot;" Text="I'm looking for a smartphone for an elderly person who is familiar with PCs (and is a long-time Linux user), but has not used a mobile phone before. They tried a basic phone¹ and found the screen too small and the interface too unwieldy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The anticipated use of the phone is primarily as a telephone, perhaps to send and receive SMS, to listen to the radio, and some web browsing. Photography and games are not relevant. Other uses may be discovered when they have the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not a primary concern, but a low-end phone is preferred so that it says “not worth stealing”, not “mug me”. The phone will be bought and used in France.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As light as possible. This is more important than battery life.&#xD;&#xA;* Not too damage-prone, as long as it doesn't increase the weight.&#xD;&#xA;* FM radio.&#xD;&#xA;* Android, without fancy OEM software. The phone is likely going to run whatever OS the manufacturer has put on it, not some mod. It must be sold with, or at least upgradable to, at least Nougat 7.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Size is a bit of an unknown because it's difficult to relate until you have the object in hand. But it needs to be easy to hold in one hand and to fit in a reasonable-sized pocket, so smaller is better (up to a point where the screen is too small).&#xD;&#xA;* A removable battery is strongly preferred.&#xD;&#xA;* The possibility of using a stylus would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonable perspectives for Android upgrades. The user does not want to change their phone all the time.&#xD;&#xA;* While I think the device will run the original OS, the possibility of improving privacy guards and ad blocking may be a reason to root the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¹ &lt;sub&gt; I.e. a phone that's only a phone, usually with a keyboards with digits and a few function keys, without the ability to install applications. You can see some basic phones in https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/mobile-phone/best-basic-phones-of-2018-3641218/ . Most flip phones are basic phones. &lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29124" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="5675ab80-c77c-4d05-93e1-92ac719da0af" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:36:32.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29125" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="7975" RevisionGUID="e9e999ee-c9c9-4b4d-bb10-1ca9489d6076" CreationDate="2018-03-27T18:14:53.917" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:45,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Gilles&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29135" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9016" RevisionGUID="e900e12c-d0f2-4030-9eb3-f5ac328c8f4c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:03:08.850" UserId="9081" Text="I'm hoping to upgrade my ASUS X550LC laptop with an additional memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As possible upgrades for my laptop I got suggestions by crucial software [here][1].  For compatible memory it shows only 8 GB memory sticks; one can be found [here][2] . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suppose, although it's not shown this 4 GB memory [here][4] will also be compatible. Am I wrong and what are the other compatible 4GB memories for ASUS X550LC laptops? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason why I'm not going to buy 8 GB one is, since it's DDR3, with assumption that it would not be compatible with new laptops hence, spending much on that would be useful and additional 4GB ram would be enough for general purposes. Any comment on this would also be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/scanview/CCD8477E31D926C3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/x550lc/CT5236491&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vDGkp.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct51264bf160b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29136" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9016" RevisionGUID="e900e12c-d0f2-4030-9eb3-f5ac328c8f4c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:03:08.850" UserId="9081" Text="Memory upgrade suggestions by Crucial" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29137" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9016" RevisionGUID="e900e12c-d0f2-4030-9eb3-f5ac328c8f4c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:03:08.850" UserId="9081" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9016" RevisionGUID="51c6f792-c04c-4b9c-a9c7-451053dbd580" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:08:53.260" UserId="9081" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I'm hoping to upgrade my ASUS X550LC laptop with an additional memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As possible upgrades for my laptop I got suggestions by crucial software [here][1].  For compatible memory it shows only 8 GB memory sticks; one can be found [here][2] . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suppose, although it's not shown this 4 GB memory [here][4] will also be compatible. Am I wrong and what are the other compatible 4GB memories for ASUS X550LC laptops? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason why I'm not going to buy 8 GB one is, since it's DDR3, with assumption that it would not be compatible with new laptops hence, spending much on that would be useful and additional 4GB ram (current memory - 4 GB) would be enough for general purposes. Any comment on this would also be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/scanview/CCD8477E31D926C3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/x550lc/CT5236491&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vDGkp.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct51264bf160b" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9008" RevisionGUID="d3e6053c-66d9-4f8f-a8da-a02d9f53d67d" CreationDate="2018-03-28T15:16:48.117" UserId="45" Comment="mention fingerprint reader as a plus" Text="I'm looking for a smartphone for an elderly person who is familiar with PCs (and is a long-time Linux user), but has not used a mobile phone before. They tried a basic phone¹ and found the screen too small and the interface too unwieldy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The anticipated use of the phone is primarily as a telephone, perhaps to send and receive SMS, to listen to the radio, and some web browsing. Photography and games are not relevant. Other uses may be discovered when they have the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is not a primary concern, but a low-end phone is preferred so that it says “not worth stealing”, not “mug me”. The phone will be bought and used in France.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As light as possible. This is more important than battery life.&#xD;&#xA;* Not too damage-prone, as long as it doesn't increase the weight.&#xD;&#xA;* FM radio.&#xD;&#xA;* Android, without fancy OEM software. The phone is likely going to run whatever OS the manufacturer has put on it, not some mod (I don't want to have to do tech support on non-official system components). It must be sold with, or at least upgradable to, at least Nougat 7.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Size is a bit of an unknown because it's difficult to relate until you have the object in hand. But it needs to be easy to hold in one hand and to fit in a reasonable-sized pocket, so smaller is better (up to a point where the screen is too small).&#xD;&#xA;* A fingerprint reader to simplify logging in while keeping some security would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;* A removable battery is strongly preferred.&#xD;&#xA;* The possibility of using a stylus would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;* Reasonable perspectives for Android upgrades. The user does not want to change their phone all the time.&#xD;&#xA;* While I think the device will run the original OS, the possibility of improving privacy guards and ad blocking may be a reason to root the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;¹ &lt;sub&gt; I.e. a phone that's only a phone, usually with a keyboards with digits and a few function keys, without the ability to install applications. You can see some basic phones in https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/mobile-phone/best-basic-phones-of-2018-3641218/ . Most flip phones are basic phones. &lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9022" RevisionGUID="939d1b60-aa8c-42d5-a39f-e3d1f10a6f22" CreationDate="2018-03-28T16:05:07.103" UserId="9084" Text="I recently obtained an i7 8700k that is sitting at 5.0ghz without even trying under a D15s, all on an ASUS ROG Maximus Hero with 32GB of G.Skill TridentZ.  This was to replace my 4.78 Ghz i7 2600k that has half the RAM and is on an ASRock motherboard which appears to be having problems with its SATA ports.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I made this change, I moved all of my SSDs over to the new machine.  I lucked out in that it was apparently similar enough not to flag my OEM Win10 too many points and trigger relicensing, so I now have a spare Win10 license I can use on the original motherboard.  The problem is, I also moved my only decent video card, a GTX 1070 FTW from EVGA (the 8GB variant).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Testing the drives, I found that the other HDDs in the machine may have killed the SATA ports they were on, but the motherboard might still be good.  In a hot-swap, the same drives detect as loaded with bad sectors and behave as if the interface boards were shot.   This puts me in a position full of choices, because my girlfriend would like to be able to game side-by-side instead of having to hunch over her laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an HTC Vive, but otherwise game at 1080p with AA cranked.  The two motherboards are dual-mounted in a massive case on rollers, each plugged into different monitors.  The 1080 ti is brutally above MSRP wherever I look, because Bitcoin miners, but I'm not sure if a single 1070 ti is an upgrade worth the money, just to put the 1070 back in the 2600k, which still has some functional SATA ports left and a SATA expansion card in it. The same applies to the classical 1080, which is still quite expensive.  I've also contemplated just getting a second 1070 FTW from EVGA and going SLi in the new rig, but that would leave me still needing to buy a 1050 or 900-series or something AMD for the old one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option paralysis. I'm an avid gamer, a developer...pretty much if a PC is capable of it I do it. If I can 1080 ti close to MSRP I'd probably do it for greater compatibility with software and to keep an open PCI-E 8x slot.  If I can't, am I better to get another 1070 and rig up SLi, then get a third, lesser card?  Is the TI enough of an upgrade to the 1070 to justify a 1070 ti?  Is there an AMD equivalent which objectively outperforms the 1070 and would make sense for my VR setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9022" RevisionGUID="939d1b60-aa8c-42d5-a39f-e3d1f10a6f22" CreationDate="2018-03-28T16:05:07.103" UserId="9084" Text="Two motherboards, same case, how best to proceed with GPU options? (Upgrade vs Replace)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9022" RevisionGUID="939d1b60-aa8c-42d5-a39f-e3d1f10a6f22" CreationDate="2018-03-28T16:05:07.103" UserId="9084" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29152" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="ca261197-607b-4259-b551-d416ccd5159c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:47:55.990" UserId="9087" Text="On my desk I have a PC dualbooting Windows and Linux and a Macbook. Is there a keyboard that uses a USB dongle and bluetooth so i can connect the dongle to the pc and bluetooth with my mac?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29153" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="ca261197-607b-4259-b551-d416ccd5159c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:47:55.990" UserId="9087" Text="Wireless Keyboard for mac, windows and linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29154" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="ca261197-607b-4259-b551-d416ccd5159c" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:47:55.990" UserId="9087" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9024" RevisionGUID="32175d97-daf3-4df8-a36b-3f42e384f35d" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:47:06.570" UserId="9088" Text="I am looking to buy a small server for my home office. I do video editing, and currently using USB3 external disks is slowing me down, so I need a fast file server that I can use to store my live projects. (Note: I won't be editing using the server itself as I have my own workstation. It will only act as a file server)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two main questions about the hard disks. The first one is the difference between the 3.5&quot; and 2.5&quot; SAS drives. I am getting mixed opinions about the 2.5&quot; ones regarding how they might affect the I/O speed and the performance. When I contacted the company that will provide the server for me, one representative told me to stay away from the 2.5, as they won't fit my needs. Another one said that it is okay to get them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other question I have is about the speed of these drives. Currently, I have enough budget to get the 3Gbps disks. I am not sure if that should be fast enough, or should I save a bit more and go for the 6Gbps ones. I read on some forums that the difference shouldn't be noticeable unless I am running a big server. Is that actually true?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29156" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9024" RevisionGUID="32175d97-daf3-4df8-a36b-3f42e384f35d" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:47:06.570" UserId="9088" Text="Difference between 3.5&quot; and 2.5&quot; SAS for home office server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29157" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9024" RevisionGUID="32175d97-daf3-4df8-a36b-3f42e384f35d" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:47:06.570" UserId="9088" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29158" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="9024" RevisionGUID="5848ba30-fa6b-419b-b2bb-a505e2081e6e" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:56:06.320" UserId="9088" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9088,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Abdelrahman Said&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29159" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="9024" RevisionGUID="b03a0399-266a-4400-8158-a5a04ba592a2" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:56:17.903" UserId="9088" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9088,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Abdelrahman Said&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9027" RevisionGUID="d50accbe-e552-468f-b720-9f80d0bc40bd" CreationDate="2018-03-29T07:31:56.167" UserId="531" Text="Its *extremely* unlikely that a NAS or home server's going to be faster than local storage. You're better off getting fast local storage *first* if external disks are slowing you down. Your file server would be bottlenecked by your network. As such, the extra speed of 2.5 inch enterprise drives *or* SSDs are unlikely to be of much benefit, though your representative might not have addressed this well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Typically* 2.5 inch drives have smaller capacities but tend to be faster (smaller platters) or SSDs. 3.5 inch drives are often nearline drives and have similar internals to SATA drives with the SAS interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*However* over most common household links - say gig-e your bottleneck is the network, not the drives. Even on 10GBe its probably less of an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking that into account, you probably *don't need* SAS. Regular sata drives would probably be just as good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd suggest however that you see if your system supports thunderbolt (which essentially is the fastest external storage interface you can get currently) and/or upgrade your workstation and server to 10GBe. Its slightly costly (though there's good second hand, or new-low end options) but either option should get you better performance than what you see now. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9028" RevisionGUID="954981ff-2c44-4d22-8bed-13d1b3f22dae" CreationDate="2018-03-29T12:11:25.313" UserId="9084" Text="The problem with your idea is that if a keyboard has two different ways to connect, it's going to favor one of them by design.  The demand for a keyboard that types the same thing on two computers at a time is next to zero, so you won't get automatic switching.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you want is called a [KVM switch, and this is an example.][1]  It allows you to control more than one computer with the same keyboard, mouse, and monitor. This allows you to switch back and forth by using toggles on the switch, and you can share hardware between the two machines. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Keyboard-Connection-Switching-Function/dp/B071Y6C516" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29169" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1700" RevisionGUID="9f0b6525-031f-4eb4-ac61-ff0484c83248" CreationDate="2018-03-29T16:05:45.237" UserId="1364" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="Well, considering the fact that you need to charge other phones the phone must have a huge battery. The new Gionee Marathon M5 will definitely suit your needs with a humongous capacity of 6020mAh. The phone runs Android Lollipop out of the box and boasts an AMOLED display. It comes as a surprise that Gionee has managed to fit a huge battery relative to current standards in an 8.5 mm thick shell (consider it a bonus). It also has an OTG(On the go) cable for charging other devices. There is also another device manufacturer named Oukitel (Chinese) which made the Oukitel K10000. I do not recommend this because it has a relatively low performance and a bad display.   " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9029" RevisionGUID="f0af4fc4-4b48-47fe-b1de-89fc9ff5e355" CreationDate="2018-03-29T18:23:47.420" UserId="9084" Text="The telling part is in the last part of that little chart. Note that it displays an 8+4+4+4 dual-channel configuration, but in reality, you're only getting 16GB of the 20GB you install in that configuration.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's normally a big sign that the 16GB RAM limitation is something tied to the motherboard chipset, and you're not going to get around it. In this case, I think it's just really lousy documentation on the part of HP. Be ready for contradiction. If you go to the [actual HP support site, it says this motherboard's chipset can handle up to 32GB DDR3.][1]  That's a 4x 8GB.  Another hint that the documentation you have is nuts is the fact that a configuration that reads 8+4+4+4 as dual channel is nonsensical.  Memory won't run in dual channel mode unless the RAM capacitance is matched. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29171" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="41795c9f-647c-4647-9c52-11e2457ccb71" CreationDate="2018-03-29T22:41:49.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9030" RevisionGUID="99ac65f2-88d9-4100-8ac7-137d79cce438" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:04:57.317" UserId="9095" Text="I am creating a semi-compact computer desk with a computer built into it. Although I have many questions about this subject, I believe it is best to start with the motherboard. The computer will be running simulations and very large programs, and a want smoothness and quick processing. I also want it to run in Linux, in case that changes anything. the best recommendation I have been given is the [GIGABYTE Z370](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145035&amp;cm_re=gigabyte_z370_aorus_gaming_5-_-13-145-035-_-Product), but I wanted to check in with the experts before I make this final, since gaming requires different specs than what I am looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29173" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9030" RevisionGUID="99ac65f2-88d9-4100-8ac7-137d79cce438" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:04:57.317" UserId="9095" Text="Best motherboard for simulations and AI's" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29174" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9030" RevisionGUID="99ac65f2-88d9-4100-8ac7-137d79cce438" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:04:57.317" UserId="9095" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29177" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9031" RevisionGUID="d6cd7fe3-b5eb-4ac4-8e86-8d4a8fa67088" CreationDate="2018-03-30T07:54:03.783" UserId="6047" Text="Summary&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's going to be difficult to find laptops that have a 4/5 battery life without sacrificing on performance. I have decided to curate 3 laptops an I think you'll see that it may be worth it to go for a slightly cheaper option that has much more performance. **As a student it would be strange if you were to be in a position to code without any power near by (library, cafes, etc) unless you explicitly tried to code somewhere without power.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also stated that you wanted the laptops to cost less than 1,300$ USD, but since I am recommending laptops that you can purchase today to be shipped to Bulgaria, I had to use the exchange rate: **1.3k USD -&gt; 2,063.75 Bulgarian Levs**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## XPS 13: Long battery life at the cost of performance ##&#xD;&#xA;лв 2,068.97 at [newegg][1], MSRP лв 2,483.46&#xD;&#xA;[![XPS 13][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This XPS 13 configuration has a **7200U processor**. If you're not familiar with the Intel letter system, U stands for power saver, which means that the **processor is designed for long battery life instead of performance**. It also features **8gb of DDR3 RAM** and a **128 gb ssd**. It has no dedicated graphics card which will also help for longer battery life. This laptop is in common use by university engineering students in the US (usually in it's more powerful, less battery efficient variants in order to support 3D modeling).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [this review][3]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The XPS 13 9370 with 1080p non-touch screen lasted 12 hours and 37 minutes on the Laptop Battery Test, which involves continuous surfing over Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## ASUS Zenbook Pro: Long battery life, High performance, Bigger cost ##&#xD;&#xA;лв 2,987.85 at [newegg][4], MSRP лв 3,586.17&#xD;&#xA;[![ASUS Zenbook Pro UX550VE-DB71T][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop features a much more powerful **i7-7700HQ Quad Core**. It also features a **PCIE NVMe 512 GB SSD**. If you don't know PCIE ssd's are dramatically faster than traditional ssd's (up to speeds of 1+ gb/s read/writes) which will make heavy applications visual studio load much faster. It also comes with a thunderous **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB** which will make any 3D/game programming a breeze. It also features a generous **16gb of DDR4** ram which have feature slightly faster RAM timings that allow for faster application load in (iex. visual studio).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition this laptop features an **8-cell Li-ion battery**, which will help with battery life. According to [this review][6]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Asus' notebook endured for 7 hours and 38 minutes on the Laptop Mag Battery Test, which involves browsing the web continuously over Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## MSI GL62M: Best performance, Lowest cost ##&#xD;&#xA;лв 1,580.99 at [newegg][7], MSRP лв 2,054.99&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL62M][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is the **cheapest laptop** among the 3, and has **arguably the best components for the best value**. It features a high powered **Intel Core i7-7700HQ Quad Core**, and additional discrete graphics card -**GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB GDDR5**, **512 GB M.2 SATA SSD** (a little bit slower than PCI-E), as well as **16 GB of DDR4 RAM**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an additional note, this **laptop will have the best keyboard among the 3 choices**, as it is a gaming laptop, featuring **MSI's signature anti-ghosting steel series keyboard**. I personally own the GS-60 Ghost, and can say the keyboard is very good for a non mechanical keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of battery life the MSI is going to fall back, but in exchange you'll be packing a punch in performance and price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [this review][9]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The laptop lasted only 3 hours and 33 minutes on our battery test, which consists of continuous web surfing over Wi-Fi at 150 nits of brightness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend option 3, but if you absolutely demand a 4/5 hour battery life, you might as well buy a portable battery for laptops [like one of these][10], and it will still be cheaper than the 2 options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;## Special Considerations regarding Mac based application development (Swift) ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You've probably noticed that I didn't recommend any Macs. This is because they are not as &quot;friendly&quot; to application development as other operating systems, and tend to be overpriced if you buy them specifically for the hardware that exists in them. I personally program using the Xamarin technology to create universal, cross-platform mobile apps, but this requires me to have a mac available to even build and test the iOS version of my universal app. In order to get around this I use a [Virtual Machine][11] emulator, specifically [VM Player][12] with a *special patch* which allows me to run a mac virtual machine on windows. [This site][13] offers a guide on how to do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA0ZX5JE8166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ppzj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/dell-xps-13&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX6UX2724&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfu2A.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/asus-zenbook-pro-ux550ve&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpXFj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/msi-gl62m-7rex&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.lifewire.com/best-portable-laptop-battery-4050506&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_machine&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://my.vmware.com/web/vmware/free#desktop_end_user_computing/vmware_workstation_player/12_0&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://techsviewer.com/install-macos-high-sierra-vmware-windows/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9032" RevisionGUID="58dfd0a8-a531-45eb-ae7a-6a41659d5176" CreationDate="2018-03-30T08:23:37.610" UserId="7623" Text="Is there a general difference between a XPS13 with i7 and a Latitude 7xxx with i7 (besides 1 inch different display size)?&#xD;&#xA;They have so many notebooks and I don't see the differences." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29179" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9032" RevisionGUID="58dfd0a8-a531-45eb-ae7a-6a41659d5176" CreationDate="2018-03-30T08:23:37.610" UserId="7623" Text="Dell XPS 13 vs. Dell Latitude 7xxx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29180" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9032" RevisionGUID="58dfd0a8-a531-45eb-ae7a-6a41659d5176" CreationDate="2018-03-30T08:23:37.610" UserId="7623" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29184" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="8c3f4265-0965-4c9a-acad-5edfdf13883f" CreationDate="2018-03-30T12:41:51.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29185" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="24f76694-e71a-4122-94c6-790e448c0d63" CreationDate="2018-03-30T13:42:30.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9033" RevisionGUID="3b87b830-12c3-4cfc-98b6-3747214eff9f" CreationDate="2018-03-30T15:42:41.957" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="**XPS 13**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Processor* - i7-8550u&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*RAM* 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*SSD* 512GB - 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Display* - 13.3'' 4K Ultra HD (3840 x 2160) InfinityEdge touch display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Ports* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2x Thunderbolt™ 3 with PowerShare DC-In &amp; DisplayPort &#xD;&#xA; - 1x USB-C 3.1 with PowerShare, DC-In &amp; DisplayPort 1x card reader &#xD;&#xA; - 1x headset jack&#xD;&#xA; - 1x Noble lock slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Latitude 7xxx series**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor - i7-7600u&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM 8-32GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD 128-512GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display - 	&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; HD (1366 x 768) Anti-Glare, Camera &amp; Mic, WLAN/WWAN Capable, Non-touch&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) Anti-Glare, Camera &amp; Mic, WLAN/WWAN Capable, Non-touch&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) Anti-Glare, IR Camera &amp; Mic, WLAN/WiGig Capable, Non-touch&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) Touch, Corning® Gorilla® Glass 4, Camera &amp; Mic, WLAN/WWAN Capable&#xD;&#xA; - 14&quot; QHD (2560 x 1440) Touch, Corning® Gorilla® Glass 4, Cam &amp; Mic, WLAN/WiGig, Narrow Bezel, CF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 DisplayPort over USB Type C™ with optional Thunderbolt™ 3 capability&#xD;&#xA; - 1 Headset/mic combo jack&#xD;&#xA; - 1 uSD 4.0 Memory card reader&#xD;&#xA; - 3 USB 3.1 Gen 1 (one with PowerShare)&#xD;&#xA; - 1 HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - 1 RJ-45&#xD;&#xA; - 1 External uSIM card tray option&#xD;&#xA; - 1 Optional SmartCard Reader and Touch Fingerprint Reader&#xD;&#xA; - 1 Noble Wedge Lock slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just took a basic config from Dell's site for comparison, depending on allowed options, these could vary a bit.  The Latitude series has more build options while the XPS is limited to by which model you choose." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29187" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9016" RevisionGUID="c98d74e2-9aa2-42d5-a76c-f0dbd55ae8cc" CreationDate="2018-03-30T17:14:37.420" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29189" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="02c39bbe-ff41-4f50-bd75-26e5952dcd86" CreationDate="2018-03-30T17:48:01.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9034" RevisionGUID="19f38af7-1e1a-46e9-9417-044027998785" CreationDate="2018-03-30T18:33:07.167" UserId="9100" Text="I'm looking for a little advice on how best to improve the performance of my machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm using the machine for development of a game using the Unreal UE4 engine but I see some performance issues and lagging particularly when using the Unreal engine alongside other processes like Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'd like there to be a magic answer but I understand that I may be required to purchase some hardware upgrades to really see a performance increase. I'm guessing that a RAM upgrade to 16GB might not be enough but I'm really not sure. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would the processor be a bottleneck here or is the RAM likely to be more of an issue? If I upgrade the processor am I likely to need to buy a new case and motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either way, I'd like to keep the costs down as much as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My computer is a DELL Vostro 3900 but I've made some upgrades from the stock model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Intel i5-4460 Quad Core running at 3.2Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;DELL GGDJT Motherboard.(I haven't been able to find any useful documentation on this motherboard).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;2x4GB DDR3 Ram for a total of 8GB (*added after purchase*).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1x3GB Geforce GTX 1060 Graphics card (*added after purchase*).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1x 180GB Intel SSD with the OS and Unreal engine/project files installed (*added after purchase*).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1x 500GB Seagate SATA drive for storage.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1x 500w power supply(*added after purchase*).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice is gratefully received." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29191" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9034" RevisionGUID="19f38af7-1e1a-46e9-9417-044027998785" CreationDate="2018-03-30T18:33:07.167" UserId="9100" Text="Dell Vostro 3900 upgrade to improve performance when using Unreal Engine 4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29192" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9034" RevisionGUID="19f38af7-1e1a-46e9-9417-044027998785" CreationDate="2018-03-30T18:33:07.167" UserId="9100" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29193" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9002" RevisionGUID="616a42e5-7327-48a1-acc7-a77dc352e0d2" CreationDate="2018-03-30T19:09:44.940" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:5001,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Jeff&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9030" RevisionGUID="185732bf-517b-4838-992b-48c214f21d56" CreationDate="2018-03-30T19:57:18.723" UserId="9095" Comment="added 208 characters in body" Text="I am creating a semi-compact computer desk with a computer built into it. Although I have many questions about this subject, I believe it is best to start with the motherboard. The computer will be running simulations and very large programs, and a want smoothness and quick processing. I also want it to run in Linux, in case that changes anything. the best recommendation I have been given is the [GIGABYTE Z370](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145035&amp;cm_re=gigabyte_z370_aorus_gaming_5-_-13-145-035-_-Product), but I wanted to check in with the experts before I make this final, since gaming requires different specs than what I am looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update 2018-03-30: I realized that &quot;AI's and simulations&quot; is very vague; I would opt towards mostly GPU based programs, so running multiple scenarios and branched AI's. I hope this clears up the question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29197" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="e387755b-0ea6-46ef-857a-6c859b738535" CreationDate="2018-03-30T21:48:37.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29198" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="58459eb7-a8ca-4d96-88b4-d7a2a04343a4" CreationDate="2018-03-30T22:48:37.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9037" RevisionGUID="29fb339b-25b6-46f9-98d1-ff12b3e54db3" CreationDate="2018-03-31T13:52:48.760" UserId="9105" Text="So my situation is that I have two computers. One is my laptop that goes everywhere with me and is a sort of workhorse rig. The other is my gaming desktop rig.&#xD;&#xA;I have one set of USB headphones that I use all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm wanting to do is take the audio out from my laptop and put it into my computer in 7.1. Up until now I have been using a 3.5mm male to male cable. It works but it creates noise and its a pain. I've looked into network based solutions but all have 1-2 seconds of lag and I would need almost 0 latency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some kind of dongle that can plug into my laptop and show as USB speakers and then plug into my desktop and show as USB input which I can then monitor on my headphones? Or any other solution to share digital audio between the two?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: neither computer has spdif but if anyone knows of a cheap spdif dongle that could also work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29206" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9037" RevisionGUID="29fb339b-25b6-46f9-98d1-ff12b3e54db3" CreationDate="2018-03-31T13:52:48.760" UserId="9105" Text="Share digital audio between computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29207" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9037" RevisionGUID="29fb339b-25b6-46f9-98d1-ff12b3e54db3" CreationDate="2018-03-31T13:52:48.760" UserId="9105" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29210" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="9dd784be-8507-40f9-a8a1-161891366919" CreationDate="2018-03-31T19:53:26.457" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9038" RevisionGUID="7544f23c-acf5-4c45-ac1d-41874d663edf" CreationDate="2018-03-31T23:33:06.747" UserId="9107" Text="I have purchased a ASUS K20CE style pc for my son, which has turned out not to have enough &quot;omph&quot; for playing even modest modern 3D games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I went out and got a GeForce GT710 card for the PC (which matched one of the options that I could have ordered the PC with to begin with) but was faced with the problem, that the card did not fit the cabinet (times have changed much since I built my last PC it turns out!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the motherboard is a mini ITX one. It has a single PCI Express slot, and the cabinet is slim. I have my eyes on some alternative GPUs, that may fit the machine, but I hesitate to order as I realise the system has an external power adapter of at most 90W. Most GPU cards advertise 300-400W power requirements, so I am starting to wonder if it will work at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody have experience with such an upgrade or advice? The goal is not to make a monster gaming PC, but just a modest budget one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9038" RevisionGUID="7544f23c-acf5-4c45-ac1d-41874d663edf" CreationDate="2018-03-31T23:33:06.747" UserId="9107" Text="Seeking advice for adding GPU to mini PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9038" RevisionGUID="7544f23c-acf5-4c45-ac1d-41874d663edf" CreationDate="2018-03-31T23:33:06.747" UserId="9107" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29216" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8470" RevisionGUID="35c6a3f4-c312-4c34-bf24-d17de5eb9217" CreationDate="2018-03-31T23:53:26.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29218" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="2498c627-56a8-4d3b-9c65-83faa8a8dd53" CreationDate="2018-04-01T21:06:28.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29219" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="4b901319-86c9-43c9-a1d5-2ebf8dd51723" CreationDate="2018-04-01T22:06:28.583" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29223" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="3d8d256e-9921-44d8-b477-74a35f08a707" CreationDate="2018-04-02T01:06:34.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29228" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="2e4dc423-e9ce-482e-b4bb-fc0f187c807a" CreationDate="2018-04-02T09:06:58.733" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29232" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="f8959c1b-4789-4b3d-b512-2e6b992b624d" CreationDate="2018-04-02T11:06:58.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9042" RevisionGUID="e3ce2e6d-8fea-4b88-abed-a59277808ad4" CreationDate="2018-04-02T12:14:11.460" UserId="9084" Text="You might be able to fit a low-profile nVidia GTX 1050 or 1050Ti in there, and that card would allow *some* modern gaming, but that is definitely not a gaming PC.  The GT710 is an old business-class video card that is often used to allow multiple monitors on the same workstation, but is as bad as some on-die processor video adapters when it comes to processing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked at the spec sheet on that machine; it's designed to be a multimedia micro tower.  Even the top end configuration for it only has a GT730 video card, and thats not much better than the 710.  It *does* have an available 90w power supply upgrade, but as you discovered, even the most basic gaming setup requires more than that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You've also got a problem with that Pentium or *hurk* Celeron processor.  Those are flat-out too weak for games.  If it's an Intel processor and it doesn't say &quot;i3&quot;, &quot;i5&quot;, &quot;i7&quot;, or &quot;i9&quot; at the beginning of its name, it's just their low-power junk they sell for cheap, and most games won't run on them at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, all I have is bad news.  That computer won't fit your kid's needs.  You discovered that &quot;cheap computer&quot; and &quot;gaming computer&quot; are mutually exclusive.  I tried to find this machine for sale in the USA, but it looks like it would run around $200 if it were available here.  A light gaming computer in that price range won't happen, unless you can pick it up used.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9043" RevisionGUID="c66cb621-3e1d-4330-9f54-30d52ea298cb" CreationDate="2018-04-02T13:53:41.103" UserId="9035" Text="Consider using the [Laptop Finder feature on LapTopMag.com][1]. After answering about a half dozen multiple choices questions, it displays a list of up to 8 laptops to consider based on the selection criteria entered while answering the questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full disclosure: this website does contain header and right vertical banner advertisements. (I've seen some for Dell &amp; Acer.) That could influence the results generated by the Laptop Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the processor selection, version 8 (Kaby Lake Refresh) is significantly faster and more power efficient than version 7 (Kaby Lake) for the i5 and i7 Intel processors. For many performance tests, an i5 version 8 processor will outperform an i7 version 7 processor. The [Intel 8th Gen vs 7th Gen page on LapTopMag.com][2] covers this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Retailers are just beginning to switch from version 7 to 8. A recent Best Buy website search had about a 2 to 1 ratio of v7 to v8 laptops. So be aware of this difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/laptop-finder&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/kaby-lake-refresh-8th-gen-vs-7th-gen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="8f376042-531b-46c6-89f8-a1300c1fb4fe" CreationDate="2018-04-02T14:07:33.583" UserId="9035" Comment="minor spelling and clarification updates" Text="I have an Asus A52j (K52JK). The laptop has been with me for around 7 years. It is i5. Now I need to get a new one. I am looking for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Good CPU (i7 or better)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Full Keyboard (with the right keybad)&#xD;&#xA; 3. More than 17&quot; display (LED could be better) &#xD;&#xA; 4. Good number of USB plugs/connection&#xD;&#xA; 5. System RAM - at least 8 GB of memory&#xD;&#xA; 6. 2TB SSHD or regular provided that I can upgrade to SSD when their price goes down.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Graphics RAM - at lease 4 GB of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please recommend a good one for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29237" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="8f376042-531b-46c6-89f8-a1300c1fb4fe" CreationDate="2018-04-02T14:07:33.583" Comment="Proposed by 9035 approved by 60 edit id of 669" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29238" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9043" RevisionGUID="c6ffccec-371b-40d9-8efc-a539e3976660" CreationDate="2018-04-02T14:38:29.813" UserId="9035" Comment="added 545 characters in body" Text="Consider using the [Laptop Finder feature on LapTopMag.com][1]. After answering about a half dozen multiple choices questions, it displays a list of up to 10 laptops to consider based on the selection criteria entered while answering the questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements of a 17&quot; display and 4 GB of graphics memory will add a significant amount to the laptop cost and limit the selection of applicable laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on your stated requirements and some that I inferred ($1K or less target budget and average battery duration), these are the top 5 suggestions generated by the Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Lenovo ThinkPad P71 - $1259&#xD;&#xA; 2. PowerSpec 1710 - $1400&#xD;&#xA; 3. Dell Inspirion 17 7000 2-in-1 (7th Gen Core) - $900&#xD;&#xA; 4. Acer Predator Helios 300 (17 inch) - $1357&#xD;&#xA; 5. OriginPC Eon 17-X (2018) - $3712&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full disclosure: this website does contain header and right vertical banner advertisements. (I've seen some for Dell &amp; Acer.) That could influence the results generated by the Laptop Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the processor selection, version 8 (Kaby Lake Refresh) is significantly faster and more power efficient than version 7 (Kaby Lake) for the i5 and i7 Intel processors. For many performance tests, an i5 version 8 processor will outperform an i7 version 7 processor. The [Intel 8th Gen vs 7th Gen page on LapTopMag.com][2] covers this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Retailers are just beginning to switch from version 7 to 8. A recent Best Buy website search had about a 2 to 1 ratio of v7 to v8 laptops. So be aware of this difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/laptop-finder&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/kaby-lake-refresh-8th-gen-vs-7th-gen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9045" RevisionGUID="c775f726-c287-46d4-9994-68d9a037c6c5" CreationDate="2018-04-02T19:11:14.473" UserId="9117" Text="So my kit isn't the worst, and it's far from the best. I'm wondering for myself personally as well as generally, what would be the best component to prioritise upgrading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no SSD, only 1TB **HDD** 7200RPM and I know that a computer's storage can be a huge bottleneck for games that must fetch lots of files, RPGs like the witcher 3 for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **CPU** is the Intel Core i5-3350P @ 3.1GHz - A poor CPU by todays standard, I often find myself having 100% CPU usage while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **GPU** is the Nvidia GeForce GT 640 1GB - Another poor component by todays standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've 8GB of DDR3 **RAM**, plentiful however not DDR4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a prebuilt, full specs are found below. It was not intended for gaming however that is what I wish to turn it into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/support/home/uk/en/ukbsdt1/product-support/servicetag/20dprw1/configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth turning it into a gaming rig? At the moment I can and have been using it as so, it can hold a solid 60 on many games. MOBAS, FPS multiplayer games and anything else runs fine on it - low to mid settings. However now I wish to use it on high settings, especially with some RPGs i own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I start from scratch or can I make some wise yet frugal upgrades to make it into what I want. Any advice or comments on what you would do is welcomed! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I have low income working part time as I am a student." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9045" RevisionGUID="c775f726-c287-46d4-9994-68d9a037c6c5" CreationDate="2018-04-02T19:11:14.473" UserId="9117" Text="Best upgrade to make for a gaming rig?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9045" RevisionGUID="c775f726-c287-46d4-9994-68d9a037c6c5" CreationDate="2018-04-02T19:11:14.473" UserId="9117" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29250" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="95aa3d9e-0ad2-4527-9319-23311aeffe3a" CreationDate="2018-04-03T05:19:18.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29251" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="1a193af9-f9c8-4539-968e-24a990a07d51" CreationDate="2018-04-03T06:19:18.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29255" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="0033edea-ed15-44de-8140-27f5a62bd306" CreationDate="2018-04-03T09:19:19.610" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29256" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9045" RevisionGUID="c9362600-f8f5-4ac4-9cfa-5bbfc35505a6" CreationDate="2018-04-03T09:41:38.897" UserId="9117" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="So my kit isn't the worst, and it's far from the best. I'm wondering for myself personally as well as generally, what would be the best component to prioritise upgrading?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no SSD, only 1TB **HDD** 7200RPM and I know that a computer's storage can be a huge bottleneck for games that must fetch lots of files, RPGs like the witcher 3 for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **CPU** is the Intel Core i5-3350P @ 3.1GHz - A poor CPU by todays standard, I often find myself having 100% CPU usage while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **GPU** is the Nvidia GeForce GT 640 1GB - Another poor component by todays standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've 8GB of DDR3 **RAM**, plentiful however not DDR4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a prebuilt, full specs are found below. It was not intended for gaming however that is what I wish to turn it into.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/support/home/uk/en/ukbsdt1/product-support/servicetag/20dprw1/configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth turning it into a gaming rig? At the moment I can and have been using it as so, it can hold a solid 60 on many games. MOBAS, FPS multiplayer games and anything else runs fine on it - low to mid settings. However now I wish to use it on high settings, especially with some RPGs i own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I start from scratch or can I make some wise yet frugal upgrades to make it into what I want. Any advice or comments on what you would do is welcomed! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I have low income working part time as I am a student.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: Games I'd intend to play are newer RPGs such as The Witcher 3, Kingdom Come, Far Cry 5. Also PUBG, Arma 3 and the likes..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9046" RevisionGUID="7f612381-ff3b-40d2-90ff-560719e54607" CreationDate="2018-04-03T11:48:16.227" UserId="9084" Text="Here are your two main issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My CPU is the Intel Core i5-3350P @ 3.1GHz - A poor CPU by todays standard, I often find myself having 100% CPU usage while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My GPU is the Nvidia GeForce GT 640 1GB - Another poor component by todays standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-3550p is a locked (i.e. can't overclock normally) processor, though your motherboard may allow you to force it to its full turbo speed (around 3.3 ghz).   This is *adequate* for gaming, but a new processor couldn't hurt. Except your wallet, as the newest processors use DDR4 and a different chipset socket, which means new motherboard.   If you want to avoid buying new RAM, you can get an [i7-3770k][1]; it's the same socket, uses the same RAM, and is unlocked for overclocking.  Get yourself a [Noctua D-15 cooler][2] and you can really crank the speed on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The video card is hands-down your biggest issue.  That's not just old, it's also slow for its own generation.  The GT *n*40 series was effectively the minimum discrete video card nVidia sold per generation.  You can compare it to its modern replacement [here.][3]  For about $100 more, you can probably get a GTX 1060, or a second-hand GTX 970.  With almost all games, the video card is the most taxed component, and your old card just doesn't have the texture memory (1GB) that newer games need to load all of their textures. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-3770K-Quad-Core-Processor-Cache/dp/B007SZ0EOW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522755645&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=noctua%20d15&amp;dpID=514csFxbcCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-GT-640/3650vsm7731" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29259" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9047" RevisionGUID="d4c21468-d5c4-4a16-b3fa-09ebce76eda9" CreationDate="2018-04-03T15:13:19.603" UserId="9097" Text="I have a Lenovo Miix 720, which has a single USB-C port through which it gets power.  I want to attach an AOC I1601FWUX, which is a USB-C portable monitor.  If I use a straight-through USB-C cable, the laptop powers the monitor and I have no way to power the laptop.  That setup won't last long before I have to recharge the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need is a powered hub that has at least two USB-C ports (I think Gen 1 is good enough) and that can deliver power to both.  Haven't found one yet.  Anyone know of such a hub?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29260" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9047" RevisionGUID="d4c21468-d5c4-4a16-b3fa-09ebce76eda9" CreationDate="2018-04-03T15:13:19.603" UserId="9097" Text="USB-C Connection (Hub) with power to both sides" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29261" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9047" RevisionGUID="d4c21468-d5c4-4a16-b3fa-09ebce76eda9" CreationDate="2018-04-03T15:13:19.603" UserId="9097" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9048" RevisionGUID="5ba0d444-0e3b-4dca-a4a2-d931202d29e6" CreationDate="2018-04-03T15:23:42.097" UserId="9084" Text="The [Arc Hub][1] can supposedly do this, but it's expensive, as such hubs are still relatively new. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://bourgedesign.com/collections/all" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29263" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="8bcac02b-b72d-4f6a-aadc-27396edf79e6" CreationDate="2018-04-03T20:25:45.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9049" RevisionGUID="a8eaca61-cbec-481d-9e39-c7b13cc4746f" CreationDate="2018-04-03T21:27:43.087" UserId="7202" Text="I would be looking at the graphics card as priority #1, your CPU could always benefit from an upgrade but it is running 3.1ghz with 4 cores and a 6mb cache (not a slow processor), the bigger bottleneck here is definitely the GPU.. I would advise going with the latest gen 10X0 series of Nvidia cards, the 1080 would be a great addition. Make sure your motherboard takes PCI express [so the card will be compatible][1]. For the small saving I dont see it worth going for a 970/980, also the EVGA 1080 looks to be the [best buy][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next I would install a SSD, then 8gb more ram, DDR3 is fine.. Only then would I look at upgrading your CPU :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/how-to/pc-components/how-know-if-graphics-card-is-compatible-3588810/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1443" RevisionGUID="aaa293b4-3f1a-4b9c-b675-d9f7cbed270f" CreationDate="2018-04-03T23:12:51.573" UserId="45" Comment="added 472 characters in body" Text="Pre-rooted phones are a niche market. As a practical matter, I think you should settle for one that is easy to root.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the few phones to come rooted was [Fairphone 1](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairphone_1), but it isn't manufactured anymore and doesn't have Android updates after Lollipop. [Fairphone 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairphone_2) comes with a non-rooted OS by default, and has an official rooted OS image, but the official rooted image is not being updated. However, it is [supported by LineageOS](https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/FP2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fairphone is a fair trade phone: they strive to ensure that the whole manufacturing chain from mining to assembling respects decent labor standards (working conditions, pay, etc.). It's markedly more expensive (and also heavier at 168g) than other phones with similar performance. Buying a Fairphone is a social gesture, not a purely consumerist purchase. Fairphone documents the [cost breakdown](https://www.fairphone.com/2015/09/09/cost-breakdown-of-the-fairphone-2/) ([first edition](https://www.fairphone.com/2013/09/12/costbreakdown/)). On the upside, if some part breaks, you can order a spare: you won't get stuck with a battery molded in plastic!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fairphone's attitude towards openness is somewhat ambiguous. They prioritize fair trade over software openness, so some components use proprietary drivers. However, they are sufficiently committed to openness to ensure that you will always get an unlocked bootloader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Fairphone 2 and I'm happy with it *now*. However, until someone managed to make a LineageOS build, the choice was between an obsolete rooted OS from Fairphone and the official non-rooted, up-to-date OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the important thing is to have a phone that you're sure you can root, I feel the best advice is to get a Google flagship phone. These are designed to be development phones and so come with an unlocked bootloader, they have official OS updates longer than just about any other phone, and they tend to have good community support (through CyanogenMod and now LineageOS).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29269" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="8022ec69-10f6-4515-b380-e1f3d842659d" CreationDate="2018-04-04T01:30:47.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29274" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="5dcbb34b-1f6d-459b-8256-4542a4b416ff" CreationDate="2018-04-04T08:30:58.880" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29282" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9043" RevisionGUID="5f0bc778-80c8-47b9-830d-bc3cc68ab2b4" CreationDate="2018-04-04T17:18:53.997" UserId="9035" Comment="Removed text references to &quot;Kaby Lake&quot; &amp; &quot;Kaby Lake Refresh&quot;." Text="Consider using the [Laptop Finder feature on LapTopMag.com][1]. After answering about a half dozen multiple choices questions, it displays a list of up to 10 laptops to consider based on the selection criteria entered while answering the questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements of a 17&quot; display and 4 GB of graphics memory will add a significant amount to the laptop cost and limit the selection of applicable laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on your stated requirements and some that I inferred ($1K or less target budget and average battery duration), these are the top 5 suggestions generated by the Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Lenovo ThinkPad P71 - $1259&#xD;&#xA; 2. PowerSpec 1710 - $1400&#xD;&#xA; 3. Dell Inspirion 17 7000 2-in-1 (7th Gen Core) - $900&#xD;&#xA; 4. Acer Predator Helios 300 (17 inch) - $1357&#xD;&#xA; 5. OriginPC Eon 17-X (2018) - $3712&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full disclosure: this website does contain header and right vertical banner advertisements. (I've seen some for Dell &amp; Acer.) That could influence the results generated by the Laptop Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the processor selection, version 8 is significantly faster and more power efficient than version 7 for the i5 and i7 Intel processors. For many performance tests, an i5 version 8 processor will outperform an i7 version 7 processor. The [Intel 8th Gen vs 7th Gen page on LapTopMag.com][2] covers this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Retailers are just beginning to switch from version 7 to 8. A recent Best Buy website search had about a 2 to 1 ratio of v7 to v8 laptops. So be aware of this difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/laptop-finder&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/kaby-lake-refresh-8th-gen-vs-7th-gen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29283" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="22851297-3ea5-4cc4-9a7e-e5b8184baac5" CreationDate="2018-04-04T18:32:28.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29284" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="465f8980-208c-4f70-ad3f-3369e53c7d24" CreationDate="2018-04-04T19:32:11.893" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9054" RevisionGUID="81e31249-a1dc-4596-a4fd-d474bb1c8f93" CreationDate="2018-04-05T06:34:58.827" UserId="6047" Text="Going off the fact that you claimed about 90% RAM usage during your typical use scenario, it is likely that your RAM is paging to SSD and degrading performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of your specs are fine, so it is unlikely those are going to be bottlenecks. As an additional note windows typically only uses less than 4 gb, and chrome typically doesn't use more than 1gb unless you have a lot of extensions. That would leave 3 gb for Unreal Engine, though I am surprised that Unreal is using that much RAM. Unfortunately I don't use Unreal engine a lot so I don't know what the typical memory usage is. You might want to look into your applications and see if any are using inordinate amounts of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the recommendation, I was unable to find much information on your MOBO and the DELL support site wasn't very helpful. The [spec sheet][1] for your cpu was more useful:&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel i5-4460 memory cheat sheet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recommended 16 gb of RAM as I think that this will be more than enough to ensure that your computer isn't paging to hard drive. To put this in perspective, I have 16 gb on a laptop and only come close to filling that up running multiple Virtual Machines in parallel alongside Visual Studio + Re-sharper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This newegg query][3] contains a huge list of RAM upgrades you could purchase for your computer sorted by price. I've made a specific recommendation below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Specific recommendation: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB ##&#xD;&#xA;$125.99 at [newegg][4]&#xD;&#xA;[![G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GAR][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've chosen RAM rated at 1600 as your core specifies this is the fastest that it can support. The raised speed will allow you to load in applications slightly faster than if was rated at 1333. It also has the lowest CAS latency that I could find at 9 (specifically: 9-9-9-24). If you wanted to save money while maximizing for performance trade off, you could go for RAM with higher CAS latency, but it will increase the delay for your RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Specifically: Latency(CAS)/frequency(mhz) * 1000 = response time(ms)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, if you bought a 1600 speed RAM with a CAS Latency of 11, it would have a delay of 6.875 ms which would be a 22.222% increase in delay from equivalent RAM rated at CAS Latency 9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been a while since I've looked into the RAM market, but I remember G.SKILL, and Corsair being heavily praised in the self-building PC community around the time the 4k series intel processors were out. The Nemix and Team Group RAM seemed to be a little cheaper but user reviews seemed volatile. I haven't had much experience with these brands so I don't know how reliable their RAM is. I decided to recommend the cheapest &quot;enthusiast&quot; brand that I could recognize, but feel free to buy a cheaper RAM even if it isn't G.SKILL or Corsair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I7TC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100007611%20600551103%20601190327%20600000261%20600078206%20600083963%20600006079%20600006072&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231606&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5Iee.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9054" RevisionGUID="dff21c6f-8582-48e0-94c8-2d6234598fac" CreationDate="2018-04-05T06:57:39.243" UserId="6047" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="Going off the fact that you claimed about 90% RAM usage during your typical use scenario, it is likely that your RAM is paging to SSD and degrading performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of your specs are fine, so it is unlikely those are going to be bottlenecks. As an additional note windows typically only uses less than 4 gb, and chrome typically doesn't use more than 1gb unless you have a lot of extensions. That would leave 3 gb for Unreal Engine, though I am surprised that Unreal is using that much RAM. Unfortunately I don't use Unreal engine a lot so I don't know what the typical memory usage is. You might want to look into your applications and see if any are using inordinate amounts of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the recommendation, I was unable to find much information on your MOBO and the DELL support site wasn't very helpful. The [spec sheet][1] for your cpu was more useful:&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel i5-4460 memory cheat sheet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recommended 16 gb of RAM as I think that this will be more than enough to ensure that your computer isn't paging to hard drive. To put this in perspective, I have 16 gb on a laptop and only come close to filling that up running multiple Virtual Machines in parallel alongside Visual Studio + Re-sharper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This newegg query][3] contains a huge list of RAM upgrades you could purchase for your computer sorted by price. I've made a specific recommendation below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Specific recommendation: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB ##&#xD;&#xA;$125.99 at [newegg][4]&#xD;&#xA;[![G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GAR][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've chosen RAM rated at 1600 as your core specifies this is the fastest that it can support. The raised speed will allow you to load in applications slightly faster than if was rated at 1333. It also has the lowest CAS latency that I could find at 9 (specifically: 9-9-9-24). If you wanted to save money while maximizing for performance trade off, you could go for RAM with higher CAS latency, but it will increase the delay for your RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Specifically: Cas Latency(ns)/frequency(mhz) * 1000 = response time(ms)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, if you bought a 1600 speed RAM with a CAS Latency of 11, it would have a delay of 6.875 ms which would be a 22.222% increase in delay from equivalent RAM rated at CAS Latency 9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been a while since I've looked into the RAM market, but I remember G.SKILL, and Corsair being heavily praised in the self-building PC community around the time the 4k series intel processors were out. The Nemix and Team Group RAM seemed to be a little cheaper but user reviews seemed volatile. I haven't had much experience with these brands so I don't know how reliable their RAM is. I decided to recommend the cheapest &quot;enthusiast&quot; brand that I could recognize, but feel free to buy a cheaper RAM even if it isn't G.SKILL or Corsair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I7TC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100007611%20600551103%20601190327%20600000261%20600078206%20600083963%20600006079%20600006072&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231606&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5Iee.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29287" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="311c4400-e265-4d09-b165-0a825a4577c0" CreationDate="2018-04-05T09:37:19.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9056" RevisionGUID="6d54d08e-88e8-416f-a263-b3ab5740d469" CreationDate="2018-04-05T19:40:09.877" UserId="425" Text="I finally went for a WD MyPassport Ultra 3Tb for a reasonable price (~160$) and I can say it works very nicely and fast enough for the OSX Time Machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would definitely recommend that external hard disk for doing backups of your machine (OSX TimeMachine but surely will be good for Windows machines as well)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29294" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="e4b0a367-2cd1-49d7-a49a-25f664f6a9fb" CreationDate="2018-04-05T20:39:02.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29298" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="e08bd979-b349-4d09-a959-3f08c9004f9f" CreationDate="2018-04-05T23:39:09.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29299" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="4ff72751-aa70-4811-8c57-6650af40cf68" CreationDate="2018-04-06T00:39:01.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29300" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="f34813b1-8b89-4b5a-b708-1d0ee0048717" CreationDate="2018-04-06T02:39:35.867" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9058" RevisionGUID="1f25616a-5f1e-44da-91f9-cd30e12c6f93" CreationDate="2018-04-06T06:45:11.453" UserId="1410" Text="[This](http://www.instructables.com/id/Cardboard-Spider-DIY-Quadruped/) looks very promising.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a crab/spider like device, using cardbaord for legs, and an Arduino to control it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the comments on the linked page:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the servos cost $24 for set of 10 (bought 2 set) &amp; the shield was $7&#xD;&#xA;&gt; on Amazon, joystick was $7+shipping on digi-key and the transceivers&#xD;&#xA;&gt; were 4/$6.50 on ebay. The Arduino nano and UNO I have along with the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; LED, wires, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29304" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="a5be168d-fee5-4a07-b7f7-96665a648698" CreationDate="2018-04-06T08:46:32.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9059" RevisionGUID="42a6fe6d-5d41-45f2-995a-862c0f58b998" CreationDate="2018-04-06T16:52:15.390" UserId="9084" Text="After agonizing for days and being an irritant all over Stack Exchange trying to sort out my networking woes, I've narrowed down my current purchase needs to fit one of two routers.  One is the [Netgear Nighthawk Pro XR500][1], and the other is the [ASUS ROG Rapture GT AC-5300][2].  I've gone through the specs to the point I'm dreaming numbers (again), and I need a little help determining which better fits my use-case considering range, environment, and hardware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a **wired-only** router that is a Ubiquiti unit, currently positioned in the basement. I'm using its firewall and it is connected to wall jacks down there, as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless router this purchase would replace is two stories above.  Connecting devices on that floor include one hardline connection, one wireless AC (AD is possible, but a wall exists) within 2 feet, and one N connection roughly 35 feet away. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connecting devices one floor down include two Steam Links, a laptop, an XBox 360, and a smart television.  These are all within 20 feet of the router, as they are almost directly beneath it. All connect via N or AC.  There is also a multifunction printer on Wireless N which is further from the router, across the house, on this floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connecting devices two floors down not using the wired connection are a laptop and another XBox 360.  The range at this point is 45 feet or so.  All of these are G or N connections.  I'm not hoping for a lot here and may put a second wireless unit down there on its own subnet or try to repeat on the same SID. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the purchase renders the use of the Ubiquiti obsolete, I would like to remove it from the network, but I really like its firewall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the above, which of the two routers would most suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.netgear.com/npg/xr500/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/ROG-Rapture-GT-AC5300/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29307" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9059" RevisionGUID="42a6fe6d-5d41-45f2-995a-862c0f58b998" CreationDate="2018-04-06T16:52:15.390" UserId="9084" Text="Netgear XR500 vs ASUS ROG AC5300: Which is the better option with my configuration?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29308" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9059" RevisionGUID="42a6fe6d-5d41-45f2-995a-862c0f58b998" CreationDate="2018-04-06T16:52:15.390" UserId="9084" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29309" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="ee4ba782-53a9-4bef-a304-4cf4280b3795" CreationDate="2018-04-06T19:46:44.823" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9060" RevisionGUID="ce15e148-d35e-404d-8e60-730664b47f6c" CreationDate="2018-04-07T02:06:59.967" UserId="7696" Text="I decided to go with the [Logitech&lt;sup&gt;®&lt;/sup&gt; Wireless Wave Combo MK550](http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/wireless-wave-combo-mk550). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon list price](https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-MK550-Wireless-Keyboard-Mouse/dp/B003VAHYNC): **$54.00** ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how it compared to my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Shared Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent battery performance (Ideally 18+ months) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - No Bluetooth, unless the devices include a Bluetooth USB transmitter ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Full/Regular Size (No &quot;mini&quot; or &quot;travel&quot; sizes) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Right-Handed ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - QWERTY ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Not the Anker model `98ANWPSS-K1M1A` (but can be similar) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Keyboard Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Full key set, which include dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; numpad and function keys ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Minimal+ media keys (such as Play, Pause, Stop, RW, FF) and volume control ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Windows Key][2] ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Quiet ![Disputed][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Keyboard Like to Haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OS Sleep key is nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Shortcut to calculator is also nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Flat Keys ![Failed][4]&#xD;&#xA; - Wrist bar ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I am a programmer, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Pause (Break) button is nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I take screen shots, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Print Screen button is also nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Mouse Requirements/Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5-button design ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse wheel includes the &quot;left/right&quot; clicks ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Rubber thumb (preferred) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Laser preferred over optical, but not required ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I use a mouse pad, so doesn't need any special tracking requirements ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkRd5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0cqM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/el1Ax.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29316" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9060" RevisionGUID="f49cb7a3-492d-461a-9bac-0a96f137c998" CreationDate="2018-04-07T02:21:04.347" UserId="7696" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I decided to go with the [Logitech&lt;sup&gt;®&lt;/sup&gt; Wireless Wave Combo MK550](http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/wireless-wave-combo-mk550). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon list price](https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-MK550-Wireless-Keyboard-Mouse/dp/B003VAHYNC): **$54.00** ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how it compared to my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Shared Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent battery performance (Ideally 18+ months) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - No Bluetooth, unless the devices include a Bluetooth USB transmitter ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Full/Regular Size (No &quot;mini&quot; or &quot;travel&quot; sizes) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Right-Handed ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - QWERTY ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Not the Anker model `98ANWPSS-K1M1A` (but can be similar) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Keyboard Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Full key set, which include dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; numpad and function keys ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Minimal+ media keys (such as Play, Pause, Stop, RW, FF) and volume control ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Windows Key ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Quiet ![Disputed][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Keyboard Like to Haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - OS Sleep key is nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Shortcut to calculator is also nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Flat Keys ![Failed][4]&#xD;&#xA; - Wrist bar ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I am a programmer, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Pause (Break) button is nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I take screen shots, so a dedicated&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Print Screen button is also nice ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Mouse Requirements/Preferences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5-button design ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Mouse wheel includes the &quot;left/right&quot; clicks ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Rubber thumb (preferred) ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - Laser preferred over optical, but not required ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA; - I use a mouse pad, so doesn't need any special tracking requirements ![Passed][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkRd5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0cqM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/el1Ax.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="206d4d21-46b3-4951-9e8d-f45491561dc0" CreationDate="2018-04-07T06:26:20.477" UserId="9030" Text="mandatory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) connected via USB and recognized by windows/linux as standard gamepad, without additional drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) 6 buttons under right thumb, like on sega genesis and sega saturn controllers (the only requirement that sony dualshock 4 v2 and xbox one controllers do not fulfill)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) 2 analog sticks and 2 analog triggers positioned like on sony dualshock controllers (not like on xbox xontrollers) and with minimum possible dead zones (would like it to be as good as on sony dualshock and xbox controllers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;desirable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) a LOT of extra buttons (recognizable as extra gamepad buttons, not duplicates of other buttons) in all imaginable places except where they are prone to be pressed accidentally or otherwise get in the way (in place where sony dualshock 4 has touchpad, between analog sticks, between analog triggers, underneath like on xbox one elite controller etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) detachable USB cable, preferable with micro USB connector on gamepad's side, USB type C and mini USB are also acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) ability to work as both wired and wireless, rechargeable li-ion battery that can be replaced without tools, ability to work as wired device when battery is removed (sony dualshock 4 v2 fails this requirement)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) all-matte case without glossy parts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;would be awesome but do not even hope to get:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) 4 separate buttons in place of d-pad or at least d-pad that looks like 4 separate buttons on the surface like on sony dualshock gamepads&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) keyboard like &quot;chatpad&quot; for xbox controllers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) small steering wheel between analog sticks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) nokia BL-5C or other &quot;standard&quot; (widely available) battery instead of proprietary battery with unique shape that has no other uses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) brand (as long as analog sticks and triggers do not have dead zones and other major issues)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) price (well, almost)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) weight (300g is still not too heavy for me)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29319" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="206d4d21-46b3-4951-9e8d-f45491561dc0" CreationDate="2018-04-07T06:26:20.477" UserId="9030" Text="USB gamepad with 6 frontal buttons, analog sticks and analog triggers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29320" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="206d4d21-46b3-4951-9e8d-f45491561dc0" CreationDate="2018-04-07T06:26:20.477" UserId="9030" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="b797f118-0ebb-4806-92ee-5e653bbd7107" CreationDate="2018-04-07T10:06:46.237" UserId="9133" Text="I have a VGA monitor and want to use it with a set-up box.&#xD;&#xA;The setup-up box has only RCA output. So the converter should be RCA to VGA. After searching for hours I'm unable to find anything worth the work. Although I have found VGA to RCA converters but I doubt that they will work in reverse way.&#xD;&#xA;I would appreciate any help and recommendation regarding this.&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="b797f118-0ebb-4806-92ee-5e653bbd7107" CreationDate="2018-04-07T10:06:46.237" UserId="9133" Text="RCA to VGA converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="b797f118-0ebb-4806-92ee-5e653bbd7107" CreationDate="2018-04-07T10:06:46.237" UserId="9133" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;set-top-box&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29330" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="fdb1058d-7653-49c8-89bc-caca79e4436c" CreationDate="2018-04-07T16:49:32.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9066" RevisionGUID="4ffe047a-a470-44f6-bf37-b0aa22cc995a" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:20:40.753" UserId="7906" Text="I want to build a silent PC, high end, mainly for playing games and working. With `working` I mean Visual Studio 2017, about 3 virtual machines and my average 20+ Chrome tabs running at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I assume liquid cooling is much more silent for 2 reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The information I got around. Everyone seems to conclude water&#xD;&#xA;   cooling is more efficient and much more silent. My current system.&#xD;&#xA; - Case-mounted fans are too loud, even when I set the level to minimum&#xD;&#xA;   (it features 3 levels).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The catch is I've never mounted a liquid cooling system before, so aside from theory I have nothing to work with. I'll walk you through my soon-to-be rig components, just in case there are any restrictions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: **Asus ROG Strix Geforce GTX 1070**. No real choice here, because it's my current one.&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: **i7 8700K** or Ryzen 2700X. Most likely going for Intel, so let's assume i7 8700k for now.&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: **Asus ROG STRIX Z370-I**. I honestly don't know the difference between models I/H/E/F but I've seen them all out there. I believe E is F plus an internal USB and built-in wifi which I'm interested in, but I'm still reading around (feel free to provide info on them too if you know).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if any other components might be important towards the current matter (which is liquid cooling), please let me know if there's any problem with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all, what I want to know is what cooling kit or components should I look for in order to achieve a good result according to what I'm looking for, which is a righ that doesn't make much noise (I also want lower temperatures when running OC components, because I'm going to OC both the CPU and RAM at least, plus the GPU if my model even allow for it, but that's out of this question).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a reminder, feel free to provide info on the difference between those 4 motherboard models if you can, maybe not as an answer, but as a comment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29335" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9066" RevisionGUID="4ffe047a-a470-44f6-bf37-b0aa22cc995a" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:20:40.753" UserId="7906" Text="ASUS 1070 Strix - Liquid cooling?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29336" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9066" RevisionGUID="4ffe047a-a470-44f6-bf37-b0aa22cc995a" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:20:40.753" UserId="7906" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29339" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="31c8e125-c7ca-415f-b4d7-02dbb9870967" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:49:48.877" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="5e279ccf-550e-4dcb-8067-b4e552ea712f" CreationDate="2018-04-08T08:48:39.390" UserId="9137" Text="I’m looking for an SBC (single board computer) that can run Debian to use as a webserver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit ethernet (it’s going to be a webserver)&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 USB port (2.0 and upwards)&#xD;&#xA;- Able to boot from USB&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run Debian out of the box (‘native’ Debian, can be an official port like Debian ARM64, but not ports like Armbian or Raspbian)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 video out port: (mini) HDMI, (mini) DP, DVI or VGA (to use the terminal in case something goes wrong in the network and I can’t use SSH to get in)&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet not going over USB " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29341" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="5e279ccf-550e-4dcb-8067-b4e552ea712f" CreationDate="2018-04-08T08:48:39.390" UserId="9137" Text="SBC for webserver, compatible with Debian" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29342" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="5e279ccf-550e-4dcb-8067-b4e552ea712f" CreationDate="2018-04-08T08:48:39.390" UserId="9137" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="0852a282-579d-4bff-9ebb-d0e331c40d5f" CreationDate="2018-04-08T08:54:09.407" UserId="9137" Comment="added 100 characters in body" Text="I’m looking for an SBC (single board computer) that can run Debian to use as a webserver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum budget is €100 (120 $ / 85 £)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit ethernet (it’s going to be a webserver)&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 USB port (2.0 and upwards)&#xD;&#xA;- Able to boot from USB&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run Debian out of the box (‘native’ Debian, can be an official port like Debian ARM64, but not ports like Armbian or Raspbian)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have but not required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 video out port: (mini) HDMI, (mini) DP, DVI or VGA (to use the terminal in case something goes wrong in the network and I can’t use SSH to get in)&#xD;&#xA;- Able to be powered through USB (micro) socket&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet not going over USB controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9068" RevisionGUID="37757de6-dd7a-416a-b6b0-2f450626e21a" CreationDate="2018-04-08T11:42:27.770" UserId="5581" Text="There are the Pentax PocketJet/ Pentax PocketJet 200/ Pentax PocketJet II/ Pentax PocketJet 3, the 200 (200 dpi) or II (300 dpi) at eBay for prices ranging 60 USD and up and they come with an interface that both accepts parrallel (&quot;LPT&quot;) and serial (&quot;COM&quot;) connection, having the corresponding adapter cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pentax [PocketJet 200][1] and [II][2] have [CUPS support][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.openprinting.org/printer/Pentax/Pentax-PocketJet_200 &quot;Pentax PocketJet 200 at openprinting.org&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.openprinting.org/printer/Pentax/Pentax-PocketJet_II &quot;Pentax PocketJet II at openprinting.org&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.openprinting.org/driver/pentaxpj/ &quot;pentaxpj driver at openprinting.org&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9066" RevisionGUID="31e102d5-b80b-43e6-ac86-ce5b29f39084" CreationDate="2018-04-08T12:52:36.207" UserId="7906" Comment="Changed some components and added extra info." Text="I want to build a silent PC, high end, mainly for playing games and working. With `working` I mean Visual Studio 2017, about 3 virtual machines and my average 20+ Chrome tabs running at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I assume liquid cooling is much more silent for 2 reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The information I got around. Everyone seems to conclude water&#xD;&#xA;   cooling is more efficient and much more silent. My current system.&#xD;&#xA; - Case-mounted fans are too loud, even when I set the level to minimum&#xD;&#xA;   (it features 3 levels).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The catch is I've never mounted a liquid cooling system before, so aside from theory I have nothing to work with. I'll walk you through my soon-to-be rig components, just in case there are any restrictions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: **Asus ROG Strix Geforce GTX 1070**. No real choice here, because it's my current one.&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: **i7 8700K**. Mainly chosen over Ryzen 2700x because this one has spent some time out there, and it reportedly performs well.&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard: **Asus ROG Maximus X Hero Wifi AC**. For various reasons: It's a very reliable brand, has a lot of features I can use, the documentation is pretty easy to navigate...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if any other components might be important towards the current matter (which is liquid cooling), please let me know if there's any problem with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So all in all, what I want to know is what cooling kit or components should I look for in order to achieve a good result according to what I'm looking for, which is a righ that doesn't make much noise (I also want lower temperatures when running OC components, because I'm going to OC both the CPU and RAM at least, plus the GPU if my model even allow for it, but that's out of this question).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2018-04-08: Added an EK [custom loop][1], which I deem overexpensive for this purpose. I also changed my motherboard option to [Asus ROG Maximus X Hero Wifi AC][2]. **I have no idea** about liquid cooling, if someone could enlighten me a bit about parts I may not need, or could change to lean the final price to a lower number, that would be awesome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW5aca0e4c5da1d&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-X-HERO-WI-FI-AC/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29346" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="cc4b7678-2852-414a-afd8-9468a8eca866" CreationDate="2018-04-08T13:57:17.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29350" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9070" RevisionGUID="653d0d4e-eaa0-47ba-a8a1-1c22c22f116b" CreationDate="2018-04-08T21:37:42.280" UserId="9139" Text="It may be a touch more efficient due to the water convection of the heat works but water cooling still relies on fans to cool a radiator that cools the water. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thermal capacity of a liquid cooling solution however is a bit higher than just that of a heatpipe and a fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you should see a marked improvement of both thermal capacity and overclocking potential of the machine with a water cooling solution but I would suggest that if this is new to you that you go for a self contained solution like this ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CW-9060026-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019955W7C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;... the radiator is quite large though, so you may prefer one of it's smaller versions depending on the size of your case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29354" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9072" RevisionGUID="deb2b1c8-77a3-4d4d-b31f-adea8b5ddea3" CreationDate="2018-04-09T04:32:47.983" UserId="7606" Text="I've never been interested in activity tracker, but I recently saw a Garmin watch that records your track and heart rate when you run and auto-sync on your computer when you get home and it got me interested. However, there is a lot of choices and I'm not sure there is one that fit my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a watch to wear 24/7 that has the following specifications :   &#xD;&#xA;**Must-have specifications:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display today's date and time on the home screen&#xD;&#xA; - Display the number of steps I've made in my day on the home screen.&#xD;&#xA; - Waterproof (Need to be able to take shower and bath with it)&#xD;&#xA; - Quality wristband that holds up well. (It mustn't accidentally come undone by itself)&#xD;&#xA; - Heart rate monitor that take measure automatically during my day&#xD;&#xA; - The watch should automatically upload her data to my phone and/or PC without my intervention. (In a day, we more important thing to take care than having to synch a watch)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 7 days of battery life (the longer the better). Otherwise, a watch with an extra rechargeable battery that can be swap easily could also suit me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Specifications I would really like but can live without :**   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Since I'm wearing it all the time, wristband shouldn't be made with a material that keeps odors easily. (E.G.: tissue that absorbs sweat)&#xD;&#xA; - if the display isn't always on, there should be a way to activate the display without using the other hand. This because it is a bit cumbersome to have to use two hands to get the time.&#xD;&#xA; - GPS that track my jogging races&#xD;&#xA; - Seconds are displayed with the time&#xD;&#xA; - Seconds are displayed with the time&#xD;&#xA; - Waterproof (Would be nice if I could swim with it)&#xD;&#xA; - I would prefer a small watch to a gigantic one because big watches tend to hook on everything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---------------&#xD;&#xA;Money isn't an issue and I'm willing to pay the extra bucks to get the GPS feature.   &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;Is there a watch with all these specifications?  &#xD;&#xA;If not, which one come the closest to having all of these? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29355" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9072" RevisionGUID="deb2b1c8-77a3-4d4d-b31f-adea8b5ddea3" CreationDate="2018-04-09T04:32:47.983" UserId="7606" Text="waterproof activity watch to wear 24/7 with pedometer, heart rate monitor, auto sync data and with GPS to track running parkour" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29356" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9072" RevisionGUID="deb2b1c8-77a3-4d4d-b31f-adea8b5ddea3" CreationDate="2018-04-09T04:32:47.983" UserId="7606" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29357" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="55d962b4-0285-4f4f-bf1e-d523144d246f" CreationDate="2018-04-09T07:41:20.803" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="I’m looking for an **SBC (single board computer)** that can run Debian to use as a **webserver**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum budget is **€100 (120 $ / 85 £)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabit ethernet (it’s going to be a webserver)&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 USB port (2.0+)&#xD;&#xA;- Can boot via USB&#xD;&#xA;- Can run Debian out of the box (‘native’ Debian, can be an official port like Debian ARM64, but not ports like Armbian or Raspbian)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-necessities:&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- At least 1 video out port: (mini) HDMI, (mini) DP, DVI or VGA to access the terminal in case something goes wrong in the network and I can’t use SSH to get in)&#xD;&#xA;- Capable of being powered through USB (micro) socket&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet not going over USB controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29358" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9067" RevisionGUID="55d962b4-0285-4f4f-bf1e-d523144d246f" CreationDate="2018-04-09T07:41:20.803" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 9137 edit id of 674" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9077" RevisionGUID="4e03fe75-43a2-4865-bd9e-a3162c19b0cf" CreationDate="2018-04-09T15:23:01.583" UserId="9084" Text="Something like [this][1] is probably what you're looking for.  In the Q/A section, they mention specifically going to VGA from an RCA connection.   You may need gender changers, available on the same site, depending on what cables you already have. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6025&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqzWBRC_ARIsABSMVTP-jUPQ3B4ndYqlcVnv3dWmlvPr0cfSrBMbxAA5kF8WSF5Fo8EazTUaAndhEALw_wcB#QuestionsandAnswers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29366" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="43541e56-a107-4ae6-a8d7-3e84efdf82ae" CreationDate="2018-04-09T17:07:42.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9043" RevisionGUID="a4a82909-48ea-4e0a-94c3-57f671f08c5b" CreationDate="2018-04-09T17:50:47.547" UserId="9035" Comment="Added a new line to reference a new laptopmag.com page on CPU selection." Text="Consider using the [Laptop Finder feature on LapTopMag.com][1]. After answering about a half dozen multiple choices questions, it displays a list of up to 10 laptops to consider based on the selection criteria entered while answering the questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements of a 17&quot; display and 4 GB of graphics memory will add a significant amount to the laptop cost and limit the selection of applicable laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on your stated requirements and some that I inferred ($1K or less target budget and average battery duration), these are the top 5 suggestions generated by the Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Lenovo ThinkPad P71 - $1259&#xD;&#xA; 2. PowerSpec 1710 - $1400&#xD;&#xA; 3. Dell Inspirion 17 7000 2-in-1 (7th Gen Core) - $900&#xD;&#xA; 4. Acer Predator Helios 300 (17 inch) - $1357&#xD;&#xA; 5. OriginPC Eon 17-X (2018) - $3712&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full disclosure: this website does contain header and right vertical banner advertisements. (I've seen some for Dell &amp; Acer.) That could influence the results generated by the Laptop Finder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the processor selection, version 8 is significantly faster and more power efficient than version 7 for the i5 and i7 Intel processors. For many performance tests, an i5 version 8 processor will outperform an i7 version 7 processor. The [Intel 8th Gen vs 7th Gen page on LapTopMag.com][2] covers this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Retailers are just beginning to switch from version 7 to 8. A recent Best Buy website search had about a 2 to 1 ratio of v7 to v8 laptops. So be aware of this difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From laptopmag.com on 4/6/2018: [Which Laptop CPU is Right for You?][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/laptop-finder&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/kaby-lake-refresh-8th-gen-vs-7th-gen&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/cpu-comparison" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29371" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="88ccb908-1e60-4946-beda-6233379d21ca" CreationDate="2018-04-09T20:07:42.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29372" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="38b43ab7-1a51-49d5-b380-9c944b531a27" CreationDate="2018-04-09T21:07:42.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="86aeba0d-3fa5-4f5c-8815-2bda1565c1fe" CreationDate="2018-04-09T21:55:53.717" UserId="9061" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is to high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adicional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce de noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="86aeba0d-3fa5-4f5c-8815-2bda1565c1fe" CreationDate="2018-04-09T21:55:53.717" UserId="9061" Text="Reduce CPU Fan Noise on old AMD althorn XP 1900+" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="86aeba0d-3fa5-4f5c-8815-2bda1565c1fe" CreationDate="2018-04-09T21:55:53.717" UserId="9061" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29376" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="b0888f44-6c32-4785-b7ec-445a89f55fdc" CreationDate="2018-04-09T22:07:45.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="946baeb4-1d61-4365-98ee-cc8c4dc10221" CreationDate="2018-04-10T06:31:12.557" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Edited for spelling" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce the noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29378" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="946baeb4-1d61-4365-98ee-cc8c4dc10221" CreationDate="2018-04-10T06:31:12.557" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Edited for spelling" Text="Reduce CPU Fan Noise on old AMD Athlon XP 1900+" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29379" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="946baeb4-1d61-4365-98ee-cc8c4dc10221" CreationDate="2018-04-10T06:31:12.557" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 9061 edit id of 676" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="bf494ced-0aec-465f-8ccc-da981f622bf2" CreationDate="2018-04-10T12:25:02.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29382" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="a20a7135-31ba-48d8-9841-913a15f56611" CreationDate="2018-04-10T13:32:23.327" UserId="9148" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.&#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;What happens is that I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:&#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.&#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:&#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and the number of Windows or Android apps.&#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone user.&#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.&#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard : That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).&#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1000€ by quite for sure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs&#xD;&#xA;-‎which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.&#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.&#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.&#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe max 11.8 (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2&#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these&#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€&#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€&#xD;&#xA;HP envy which will be released also with the option of not only snapdragon but intel processors will be an option (and I prefer its kind of stand to elite X2 and dell 7285 but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c&#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...&#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer&#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something? I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29383" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="a20a7135-31ba-48d8-9841-913a15f56611" CreationDate="2018-04-10T13:32:23.327" UserId="9148" Text="Fanless, LTE and thunderbolt convertible / 2-in-1 laptop suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29384" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="a20a7135-31ba-48d8-9841-913a15f56611" CreationDate="2018-04-10T13:32:23.327" UserId="9148" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9082" RevisionGUID="0b03f8bc-023c-41ab-996e-be24e0b0d2bd" CreationDate="2018-04-10T15:12:27.330" UserId="4896" Text="We'd need more specific information about your rig for more precise advice, particularly given the age.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options (in order of estimated cost):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Investigate if your current motherboard supports any fan control capability (eg. PWM) - you'll need to get into your BIOS, but it sounds like you have already tried this and found nothing that looks like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Try a software solution like Speedfan. *If* the hardware supports it, you can manually control the speed of your fans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Buy a resistor ; you can get a short wire that you plug your existing fan into, and then the other end into your motherboard. A reduction in voltage means a reduction in fan speed and thus a reduction in noise. It will also mean a rise in temperature but 30C is very low for a CPU so you have plenty of headroom. [Fan resistor calculator][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Buy a new CPU heat-sink &amp; fan (HSF) that is quieter and/or can be manually controlled. Getting one to fit Socket A/462 might be the challenge, and this will be proportionally very expensive. Decent modern HSFs would cost as little as £20/$20/20€.... but can you find one to fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5) Soundproof your case. Expensive, and why would you go to all the trouble/expense for such an old rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you use your Noctua fan? Yes of course, but you could. The difficulty would be getting it mounted securely in a position to maximise the airflow. If your 60mm fan is directly over the middle of the heat-sink, you'll probably find your 120mm fan would be offset to the side so the larger hub does not block airflow. You could combine this with #3 to reduce the speed/noise further. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Caveat: you would need to monitor temps to confirm that your final configuration is cooling the CPU sufficiently. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a general rule, the warmer the temp, the shorter the CPU lifespan. So your noise reduction might accelerate this CPU's demise! On the other hand, it's lasted this long, and who's to say that you haven't got lucky with a very good chip. The cut out temp for that chip is likely to be in the 90C area, so Id suggest you don't let it get above 60-70C for too long.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.blackfiveservices.co.uk/fanspeed.shtml" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="efb5b609-1cd3-401c-8a1a-e728fa6bf018" CreationDate="2018-04-10T15:48:33.853" UserId="9148" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and the number of Windows or Android apps.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1000€ by quite for sure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs&#xD;&#xA;-‎which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe max 11.8 (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;HP envy which will be released also with the option of not only snapdragon but intel processors will be an option (and I prefer its kind of stand to elite X2 and dell 7285 but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something?    &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29387" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="8322287a-efd0-4477-ad53-b408a2ad8168" CreationDate="2018-04-10T15:54:25.910" UserId="9148" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and the number of Windows or Android apps.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1000€ by quite for sure. I was hoping about 1300€ but I think will be more.      &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications I am looking for are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs   &#xD;&#xA;-‎A device which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe max 11.8 (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable   &#xD;&#xA;- Ideally should have a light tablet-like charger to carry with me   &#xD;&#xA;- spanish keyboard (for example Eve-V lacks of spanish keyboard and LTE also)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;HP envy - intel processor which will be released soon might be an option (and I prefer its kind of stand to elite X2 and dell 7285 but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some discarded ones: (If I'm not wrong):   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something?    &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29388" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="ea9a7b6f-c4b2-48a5-9f2f-4121a2164816" CreationDate="2018-04-10T16:13:59.830" UserId="9148" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and the number of Windows or Android apps.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1000€ by quite for sure. I was hoping about 1300€ but I think will be more.      &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications I am looking for are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs   &#xD;&#xA;-‎A device which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe even 11.8&quot; (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable   &#xD;&#xA;- Ideally should have a light tablet-like charger to carry with me   &#xD;&#xA;- spanish keyboard, although this will be offered by most producers if I find the device in Spain (for example Eve-V lacks of both spanish keyboard and LTE, like most chinese brands like Teclast, Chuwi, Cube...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very interesting HP envy with intel processor which will be released soon might be an option (and I prefer its kind of s&#xD;&#xA;creen stand to elite X2 and dell 7285) but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some discarded ones: (If I'm not wrong):   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something?    &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="73abfb99-7b76-4ec0-8778-f580f87d23db" CreationDate="2018-04-10T16:20:04.767" UserId="9148" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that due to the keyboard and also programs missing, I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech and by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and having a large number of Windows or Android apps/programs available.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone and windows user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon 835, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1200€ by quite for sure. I was hoping about 1300€ but I think will be more.      &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications I am looking for are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs   &#xD;&#xA;-‎A device which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe even 11.8&quot; (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable   &#xD;&#xA;- Ideally should have a light tablet-like charger to carry with me   &#xD;&#xA;- spanish keyboard, although this will be offered by most producers if I find the device in Spain (for example Eve-V lacks of both spanish keyboard and LTE, like most chinese brands like Teclast, Chuwi, Cube...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very interesting HP envy with intel processor which will be released soon might be an option (and I prefer its kind of screen stand to the elite X2 and dell 7285 ones) but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into totally fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some discarded ones: (If I'm not wrong):   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something? Hopefully some of you know/own  one model besides the HP elite x2 1012 G1 and the Dell 7285 with these characteristics, already existing or about to be released.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29390" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="73abfb99-7b76-4ec0-8778-f580f87d23db" CreationDate="2018-04-10T16:20:04.767" UserId="9148" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="Fanless, LTE and thunderbolt convertible / 2-in-1 / tablet laptop suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="20de702b-b24c-4e97-90b7-5f3b307603b3" CreationDate="2018-04-10T16:25:27.467" UserId="9148" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;Please accept my apologies for the long question, I found no other way to ask my doubts than asking what I search for and explain a bit what I have already found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that due to the keyboard and also programs missing, I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech and by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and having a large number of Windows or Android apps/programs available.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone and windows user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon 835, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1200€ by quite for sure. I was hoping about 1300€ but I think will be more.      &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications I am looking for are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs   &#xD;&#xA;-‎A device which would last long time, some years so with future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe even 11.8&quot; (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable   &#xD;&#xA;- Ideally should have a light tablet-like charger to carry with me   &#xD;&#xA;- spanish keyboard, although this will be offered by most producers if I find the device in Spain (for example Eve-V lacks of both spanish keyboard and LTE, like most chinese brands like Teclast, Chuwi, Cube...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very interesting HP envy with intel processor which will be released soon might be an option (and I prefer its kind of screen stand to the elite X2 and dell 7285 ones) but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into totally fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some discarded ones: (If I'm not wrong):   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something? Hopefully some of you know/own  one model besides the HP elite x2 1012 G1 and the Dell 7285 with these characteristics, already existing or about to be released.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="866b2033-73a3-4dfa-b05c-d97f12f1ae2d" CreationDate="2018-04-10T17:28:09.273" UserId="9061" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Nvidia GeForce4 Ti 4200&#xD;&#xA;- Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;- Disco SEAGATE Barracuda ATA IV&#xD;&#xA;- 1,5Gb of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce the noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="2b59a238-78e1-404a-b620-927a078bff9a" CreationDate="2018-04-10T17:51:09.190" UserId="9061" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: MSI Nvidia GeForce4 Ti 4200&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;- HDD: Disco SEAGATE Barracuda ATA IV&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 1,5Gb of RAM&#xD;&#xA;- DVD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce the noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9081" RevisionGUID="abf33c9f-e733-4b9e-be71-415fe841f907" CreationDate="2018-04-10T18:01:07.010" UserId="9148" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="I would highly appreciate your suggestions regarding the device I have been searching for last couple of months.&#xD;&#xA;Please accept my apologies for the long question, I found no other way to ask my doubts than asking what I search for and explain a bit what I have already found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a 2-in-1 to replace the device I am taking with me currently.               &#xD;&#xA;-Currently I have an android tablet 10 inches which fits perfectly into my purse, &#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for web surfing and checking my mails, and for fun playing some casual non demanding games both out of home and when back home sitting on the sofa next to my wife,  I would like some text exiting and even spreadsheet, and reply to mails with keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;What happens is that due to the keyboard and also programs missing, I find myself waiting for some email answers if they have to be long, and for text editing, to when back home ( I did buy a bluetooth keyboard, logitech and by the way expensive, after a few falls some keys fell from it and also never worked really fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a replacement I would like an improvement, something, touch display:  &#xD;&#xA;- with keyboard, but that I could use as tablet also.  &#xD;&#xA;-that was capable of word editing and spreadsheets, but offered me some fun possibilities also&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know I have several options:  &#xD;&#xA;A) Chrome OS : I don't like having to use drive,  I prefer having programs locally and having a large number of Windows or Android apps/programs available.  &#xD;&#xA;B)Apple: I respect but I prefer Windows or even Android as I am more used to it and am an android smartphone and windows user.  &#xD;&#xA;C) Windows next releases with Snapdragon 835, which I discard due to limited windows programs compatibility of these arm-based devices.  &#xD;&#xA;D) Android with a keyboard :    That is not my prefered option but still there and will go for it if I find nothing. I would probably wait a few weeks and buy the next Galaxy tab S4 which is like 10.5&quot;, Android 8.0 oreo, and get it with keyboard and LTE, as Huawei Mediapad M5 just released lacks of audio jack. (Lenovo yoga book looks fancy but the halo keyboard seems unpractical and is android 7.0).  &#xD;&#xA;E) A windows 10 convertible /2 in 1 which is more expensive but my prefered option.&#xD;&#xA;And to find something is where I need your help:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to find options, if possible not crazy expensive but seeing things I will have to spend more than 1200€ by quite for sure. I was hoping about 1300€ but I think will be more.      &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifications I am looking for are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-‎fanless so I can use it anywhere silently, as I don't use demanding programs   &#xD;&#xA;-‎A device which would last long time, some years ahead taking into account future connectivity, so would like at least one  Thunderbolt 3. Also that way would be smaller and can lack of other connections that you could get through a multiple port.  &#xD;&#xA;-‎with LTE capabilities : don't like using the hotspot and after all wtf if I spend that money at least I expect the same connectivity I will get with an android tablet with LTE, which is much cheaper, and despite smaller screen and no thunderbolt offers now options for word processing.   &#xD;&#xA;-‎Here a question: will with android 8.0 oreo be possible  to use a mouse and multi - window so you get a pc-like if you add a keyboard with mouse?.   &#xD;&#xA;- small size so it fits in my purse or similar (here screen size will be one size or another depending on the bezel). Max size of the device for me is ‎11.5 inch (29cm) wide, maybe even 11.8&quot; (30cm), which should be more than 12&quot; screen but with that device size probably will not surpass 12.6&quot;.   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎screen 3:2   &#xD;&#xA;- ‎8 ram 256 or higher ssd if possible upgradeable   &#xD;&#xA;- Ideally should have a light tablet-like charger to carry with me   &#xD;&#xA;- spanish keyboard, although this will be offered by most producers if I find the device in Spain (for example Eve-V lacks of both spanish keyboard and LTE, like most chinese brands like Teclast, Chuwi, Cube...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final contenders are:&#xD;&#xA;Dell latitude 7285 2 in 1 is definitely an option but too expensive 2000€   &#xD;&#xA;HP elite X2 1012 G1 with lte is definitely an option also around 1500€   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very interesting HP envy with intel processor which will be released soon might be an option (and I prefer its kind of screen stand to the elite X2 and dell 7285 ones) but initially will lack of thunderbolt and LTE!!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another interesting option is getting a 11.5&quot; affordable Asus vivobook flip 12 fanless with hdd and replacing the 500gb hdd by an ssd which can be done, turning it into totally fanless, but lacks of thunderbolt and lte of course (but cheap and at least has usb type c)   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some discarded ones: (If I'm not wrong):   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo thinkpad x1 tablet depending on the generation lacks some of these   &#xD;&#xA;Toshiba portege z20t lacks thunderbolt and very thick   &#xD;&#xA;Microsoft surface lacks of thunderbolt...and even type c    &#xD;&#xA;Asus models I found lack of LTE...   &#xD;&#xA;Same with passively  cooled acer   &#xD;&#xA;Huawei matebook e neither lte nor thunderbolt   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any further ideas? Am I missing something? Hopefully some of you know/own  one model besides the HP elite x2 1012 G1 and the Dell 7285 with these characteristics, already existing or about to be released.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;I am only an end user with some basic acknoweledge so I ask for your comprehension if something I wrote is wrong :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would wait for a release later this year gladly...or take an older model with less powerful fanless processor if still can be found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="94d6e6fb-293b-4938-a4f3-036d45153175" CreationDate="2018-04-10T21:20:49.643" UserId="9061" Comment="added ram info" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: MSI Nvidia GeForce4 Ti 4200&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;- HDD: Disco SEAGATE Barracuda ATA IV&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 1,5Gb of RAM DDR333 (1024MB/166MHz &amp; 512MB/166MHz)&#xD;&#xA;- DVD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce the noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29396" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="cd4847a7-e808-4868-b6b1-7c0fab8b647c" CreationDate="2018-04-10T21:35:10.487" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9079" RevisionGUID="ec8c8c89-41df-4cc3-a8da-0473e23223af" CreationDate="2018-04-10T22:28:29.810" UserId="9061" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Fan Cooler: Cooler Master (Model:BS601512H) CM12V&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: MSI Nvidia GeForce4 Ti 4200&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;- HDD: Disco SEAGATE Barracuda ATA IV&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 1,5Gb of RAM DDR333 (1024MB/166MHz &amp; 512MB/166MHz)&#xD;&#xA;- DVD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA;- The CPU temperature is around ±30°.&#xD;&#xA;- I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What do I need to change to reduce the noise?&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?&#xD;&#xA;1. Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?&#xD;&#xA;1. Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="aa2668bf-75f4-41fa-b654-53745bb78e5b" CreationDate="2018-04-11T05:57:36.440" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="I have a VGA monitor and want to use it with a set-up box that only RCA output. I want a converter that is RCA to VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been unable to find anything worth the money to work. I have found VGA to RCA converters, but I doubt that they will work in reverse way." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29400" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="aa2668bf-75f4-41fa-b654-53745bb78e5b" CreationDate="2018-04-11T05:57:36.440" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by -1 edit id of 670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9063" RevisionGUID="6fc1ca7e-81ef-43af-bcbf-f222cb15eaf7" CreationDate="2018-04-11T05:57:36.440" UserId="203" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="I have a VGA monitor and want to use it with a set-up box that only has RCA output. I want a converter that is RCA to VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been unable to find anything likely to work. I have found VGA to RCA converters, but I doubt that they will work in reverse way." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="c597117b-c5ea-4128-ba39-c0595ccee5ee" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:02:44.570" UserId="578" Text="The few times I've encountered server gear, the build gear simply amazes me. It's just remarkably well-built, with incredibly solid metal construction throughout. The quality of the front of the chassis and branding, in particular, lend a sense of gravitas I simply don't get from any consumer desktop chassis I've seen. High-end workstations from major PC vendors are often built to a similar level of quality as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize that with the profit margins typical of high-end IT equipment, vendors can afford to spare no expense on the physical construction of their products, but this is harder to achieve in the price-sensitive consumer market. Nonetheless, are there any modern (not discontinued) consumer- or gamer-oriented desktop chassis built to &quot;big iron&quot; server standards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for high-quality, rigid all-metal construction in all key areas, with minimal use of plastics. There should not be thin, low-quality material that is easily bent or dented. This extends to key interior parts of the case, such as the drive cages, as well as to any supplied accessories such as pre-installed fans. Any logos or other branding should be physically substantial, not merely printed on the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the case should be large enough to accomodate an EATX motherboard. In any case, however, it must be able to accept a standard ATX board. It should also be a traditional PC tower—I'm looking for &quot;big iron&quot; build quality, but not the rackmount form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is unlimited, but the solution should be a commercially-available product, not a custom, one-off design." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="c597117b-c5ea-4128-ba39-c0595ccee5ee" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:02:44.570" UserId="578" Text="Consumer/gaming-oriented case with high-end &quot;big iron&quot; server-level build quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="c597117b-c5ea-4128-ba39-c0595ccee5ee" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:02:44.570" UserId="578" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="fda804a6-ea86-4fac-abd6-8e718e348f58" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:07:46.733" UserId="578" Comment="added 113 characters in body; added 5 characters in body; added 10 characters in body; added 1 character in body" Text="The few times I've encountered server gear, the build gear simply amazes me. It's just remarkably well-built, with incredibly solid metal construction throughout. The quality of the front of the chassis and branding, in particular, lend a sense of gravitas I simply don't get from any consumer desktop chassis I've seen. High-end workstations from major PC vendors are often built to a similar level of quality as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize that with the profit margins typical of high-end IT equipment, vendors can afford to spare no expense on the physical construction of their products, but this is harder to achieve in the price-sensitive consumer market. Nonetheless, are there any modern (not discontinued) consumer- or gamer-oriented desktop chassis built to &quot;big iron&quot; server standards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for high-quality, rigid all-metal construction in all key areas, with minimal use of plastics. There should not be thin, low-quality material that is easily bent or dented. This extends to key interior parts of the case, such as the drive cages, as well as to any supplied accessories such as pre-installed fans. Branding and design motifs should be physically substantial, extending beyond mere printing on the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the case should be large enough to accomodate an EATX motherboard. In any case, however, it must be able to accept a standard ATX board. It should also be a traditional PC tower—I'm looking for &quot;big iron&quot; build quality, but not the rackmount form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is unlimited, but the solution should be a commercially-available product, not a custom, one-off design. Size and weight are also of no concern, as long as it isn't so large or heavy that it can't be moved into most homes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="4f2cc0c8-f0d6-4e96-8209-2ad0c23755b7" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:23:36.670" UserId="578" Comment="added 21 characters in body; edited body; added 33 characters in body; added 20 characters in body" Text="The few times I've encountered server gear, the build gear simply amazes me. It's just remarkably well-built, with incredibly solid metal construction throughout. The quality of the front of the chassis and branding, in particular, lend a sense of gravitas I simply don't get from any consumer desktop chassis I've seen. High-end workstations from major PC vendors are often built to a similar level of quality as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize that with the profit margins typical of high-end IT equipment, vendors can afford to spare no expense on the physical construction of their products, but this is harder to achieve in the price-sensitive consumer market. Nonetheless, are there any modern (not discontinued) consumer- or gamer-oriented desktop chassis built to &quot;big iron&quot; server standards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for high-quality, rigid metal construction in all key areas, with judicious use of plastics only where it does not significantly reduce build quality. There should not be thin, low-quality material that is easily bent, dented, or otherwise damaged. This extends to key interior parts of the case, such as the drive cages. A high level of durability is also expected of any supplied accessories such as pre-installed fans. Branding and design motifs should be physically substantial, extending beyond mere printing on the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the case should be large enough to accomodate an EATX motherboard. In any case, however, it must be able to accept a standard ATX board. It should also be a traditional PC tower—I'm looking for &quot;big iron&quot; build quality, but not the rackmount form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is unlimited, but the solution should be a commercially-available product, not a custom, one-off design. Size and weight are also of no concern, as long as it isn't so large or heavy that it can't be moved into most homes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29407" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9083" RevisionGUID="c22b0033-447e-45cc-b20f-64f20f39f0d4" CreationDate="2018-04-11T16:17:28.717" UserId="578" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="The few times I've encountered server gear, the build quality simply amazes me. It's just remarkably well-built, with incredibly solid metal construction throughout. The quality of the front of the chassis and branding, in particular, lend a sense of gravitas I simply don't get from any consumer desktop chassis I've seen. High-end workstations from major PC vendors are often built to a similar level of quality as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize that with the profit margins typical of high-end IT equipment, vendors can afford to spare no expense on the physical construction of their products, and that it's hard to achieve the same in the price-sensitive consumer market. Nonetheless, are there any modern (not discontinued) consumer- or gamer-oriented desktop chassis built to &quot;big iron&quot; server standards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for high-quality, rigid metal construction in all key areas, with judicious use of plastics only where it does not significantly reduce build quality. There should not be thin, low-quality material that is easily bent, dented, or otherwise damaged. This extends to key interior parts of the case, such as the drive cages. A high level of durability is also expected of any supplied accessories such as pre-installed fans. Branding and design motifs should be physically substantial, extending beyond mere printing on the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, the case should be large enough to accomodate an EATX motherboard. In any case, however, it must be able to accept a standard ATX board. It should also be a traditional PC tower—I'm looking for &quot;big iron&quot; build quality, but not the rackmount form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is unlimited, but the solution should be a commercially-available product, not a custom, one-off design. Size and weight are also of no concern, as long as it isn't so large or heavy that it can't be moved into most homes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9084" RevisionGUID="e77fc235-ff64-41fc-8bc6-ec9ce67f6f8c" CreationDate="2018-04-11T17:17:54.350" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="**[Orange Pi Plus 2][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$49 (USD) on [AliExpress][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.orangepi.org/orangepiplus2/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Orange-Pi-Plus-2-H3-Quad-Core-1-6GHZ-2GB-RAM-4K-Open-source-development-board/1553371_32516755321.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10/100/1000M Ethernet RJ45&#xD;&#xA; - Four USB 2.0 HOST, one USB 2.0 OTG&#xD;&#xA; - Support for Android, Ubuntu, *Debian*, Raspbian Image&#xD;&#xA; - Supports HDMI output with HDCP &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There might be other models (there is a slew of 'em) that fit the bill with more or less feature that you might want. This particular one has good power and features but might be overkill." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9070" RevisionGUID="3a7c3ff3-fd16-4c9e-90ae-aea62a9f9b2f" CreationDate="2018-04-11T17:48:59.450" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Formatting, Link" Text="It may be a touch more efficient due to the water convection of the heat works but water cooling still relies on fans to cool a radiator that cools the water. The thermal capacity of a liquid cooling solution, however, is a bit higher than just that of a heatpipe and a fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should see a marked improvement of both thermal capacity and overclocking potential of the machine with a water cooling solution but I would suggest that if this is new to you that you go for a [self contained solution like this][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The radiator is quite large though, so you may prefer one of it's smaller versions depending on the size of your case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CW-9060026-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019955W7C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29418" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9070" RevisionGUID="3a7c3ff3-fd16-4c9e-90ae-aea62a9f9b2f" CreationDate="2018-04-11T17:48:59.450" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29422" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="1a2a8f34-6a32-4562-9389-c0321c41d99c" CreationDate="2018-04-11T21:43:47.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29423" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="8bc91d8a-fdff-4a52-8366-aa3c92ea9b5b" CreationDate="2018-04-11T23:43:48.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29431" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="6b7fed75-e804-4b50-82c3-1c1575977cc6" CreationDate="2018-04-12T16:56:22.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9088" RevisionGUID="d7316bc1-9c32-4d3c-9081-0293fda15392" CreationDate="2018-04-13T04:46:12.263" UserId="9161" Text="I am planning to order a Lenovo ThinkPad E570. It comes with a 4GB DDR4 SODIMM stick. I want to throw in more RAM. So&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) if it's a DDR4 system, would it support DDR3 as well?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) should I buy an 8GB DDR4 (4+8 =12GB) stick or just get 2 8GB DDR (16GB) sticks for the same price ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) how would going for a DDR3 impact performance and also battery life? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9088" RevisionGUID="d7316bc1-9c32-4d3c-9081-0293fda15392" CreationDate="2018-04-13T04:46:12.263" UserId="9161" Text="Laptop memory upgrade confusion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9088" RevisionGUID="d7316bc1-9c32-4d3c-9081-0293fda15392" CreationDate="2018-04-13T04:46:12.263" UserId="9161" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9090" RevisionGUID="fdeb9fcb-6aed-4bc1-b605-602a03d2da09" CreationDate="2018-04-13T14:51:12.353" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="&gt; 1) if it's a DDR4 system, would it support DDR3 as well?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally speaking, NO. What's the manual say? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;2) should I buy an 8GB DDR4 (4+8 =12GB) stick or just get 2 8GB DDR (16GB) sticks for the same price ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the documentation say about it?  If 16 GB is supported, it is what I would do, provided it is DDR4.  Otherwise just go with adding the 8 GB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;3) how would going for a DDR3 impact performance and also battery life?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It probably won't work, so performance will be severely impacted." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9091" RevisionGUID="88612954-a4f5-407a-92bf-2a609843b995" CreationDate="2018-04-13T16:19:49.953" UserId="9164" Text="I have some conductive ink that I want to use to print circuits. The current method involves painting the ink, but I would like a more precise method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of youtube videos and such explaining how to refill an ink cartridge for an inkjet printer myself, but I would rather not use a cartridge that was previously filled with regular ink in order to avoid contamination.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any printers that cater to this niche market of people wanting to use odd inks? If not, what could I do when refilling an inkjet cartridge to ensure that I had completely cleaned out the old ink supply without damaging the cartridge?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29441" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9091" RevisionGUID="88612954-a4f5-407a-92bf-2a609843b995" CreationDate="2018-04-13T16:19:49.953" UserId="9164" Text="Are there any printer companies that sell empty ink cartridges that I can fill myself?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29442" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9091" RevisionGUID="88612954-a4f5-407a-92bf-2a609843b995" CreationDate="2018-04-13T16:19:49.953" UserId="9164" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29447" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9088" RevisionGUID="aa106b1e-5fac-461d-85b0-154bbba19057" CreationDate="2018-04-13T21:21:46.363" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29455" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="404490a4-179a-4371-b75e-b14314afc110" CreationDate="2018-04-15T00:16:42.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29456" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="ed7c5836-4d22-4d59-93ee-0cee5f457cc3" CreationDate="2018-04-15T05:17:01.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29457" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="fc4e5786-74b5-4a89-8210-6c0db2ca816f" CreationDate="2018-04-15T06:17:07.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29458" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="ea9f4427-71b8-433b-948d-0d881fac3344" CreationDate="2018-04-15T07:13:19.407" UserId="9030" Comment="fixed minor typo" Text="mandatory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) connected via USB and recognized by windows/linux as standard gamepad, without additional drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) 6 buttons under right thumb, like on sega genesis and sega saturn controllers (the only requirement that sony dualshock 4 v2 and xbox one controllers do not fulfill)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) 2 analog sticks and 2 analog triggers positioned like on sony dualshock controllers (not like on xbox controllers) and with minimum possible dead zones (would like it to be as good as on sony dualshock and xbox controllers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;desirable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) a LOT of extra buttons (recognizable as extra gamepad buttons, not duplicates of other buttons) in all imaginable places except where they are prone to be pressed accidentally or otherwise get in the way (in place where sony dualshock 4 has touchpad, between analog sticks, between analog triggers, underneath like on xbox one elite controller etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) detachable USB cable, preferable with micro USB connector on gamepad's side, USB type C and mini USB are also acceptable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) ability to work as both wired and wireless, rechargeable li-ion battery that can be replaced without tools, ability to work as wired device when battery is removed (sony dualshock 4 v2 fails this requirement)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) all-matte case without glossy parts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;would be awesome but do not even hope to get:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) 4 separate buttons in place of d-pad or at least d-pad that looks like 4 separate buttons on the surface like on sony dualshock gamepads&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) keyboard like &quot;chatpad&quot; for xbox controllers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) small steering wheel between analog sticks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) nokia BL-5C or other &quot;standard&quot; (widely available) battery instead of proprietary battery with unique shape that has no other uses&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) brand (as long as analog sticks and triggers do not have dead zones and other major issues)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) price (well, almost)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) weight (300g is still not too heavy for me)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29461" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="e544b29e-28c8-452a-8709-f46efb40b1cb" CreationDate="2018-04-15T21:20:16.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29462" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="44c10249-b4d2-4919-a7f6-c9fecdda4fc3" CreationDate="2018-04-16T00:26:49.037" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="4d05c899-3619-47d8-b3b6-58710ea7fe7d" CreationDate="2018-04-16T01:58:09.407" UserId="7932" Text="The quality of Mobile disk is not qualified my expectation. Hence I want to use Data Center Hard Disk to storage my data(Some of my data are accessing and overwriting frequently, so I need data center disk). However the protection of internal disk is not so good. In order to give more protection to my hard disk. I want a hard disk case. There is a picture which I found on internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be better is it have the feature below(***optional***):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Support multi-disk integration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Have the independent power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. have dust defense designing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. the SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixing on case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length(even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. the framework of the case is fixed by screw. I can use screw driver to make it to parts.(I can easily clean and check it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone have any experience about that, please, give me some hint or guide. Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/U26IO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29464" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="4d05c899-3619-47d8-b3b6-58710ea7fe7d" CreationDate="2018-04-16T01:58:09.407" UserId="7932" Text="Is there any Hard Disk Case which is similar to the picture below?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29465" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="4d05c899-3619-47d8-b3b6-58710ea7fe7d" CreationDate="2018-04-16T01:58:09.407" UserId="7932" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29469" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8532" RevisionGUID="c7d7b0e4-9b98-4c75-a053-f7d587953c29" CreationDate="2018-04-16T09:29:32.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29470" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="ce2e5dae-f40f-4062-b96f-09f14d379484" CreationDate="2018-04-16T11:29:20.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="f0c4359c-1402-4bfa-8a67-e74f94cd9a19" CreationDate="2018-04-16T12:15:52.120" UserId="203" Comment="Fix grammar, Add tags" Text="The quality of portable hard disks have been underwhelming for me, so I want to use datacenter hard disks to store my data (Some of my data are being accessed and overwritten frequently, so I need datacenter hard disks). However the protection of internal disk is not so good. To give more protection to my hard disk, I want to buy a hard disk case. What I want is something like shown in the image below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A 1.5 TB WD Green in a metal enclosure.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it also had the following features (***optional***):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Support multi-disk integration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Have the independent power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Have dust resistant design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. The SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixed on the case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length (even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. The frame of the case can be easily disassembled and reassembled with a standard screwdriver for cleaning and maintenance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone have any experience about that, please, give me some hint or guide. Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/U26IO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29472" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="f0c4359c-1402-4bfa-8a67-e74f94cd9a19" CreationDate="2018-04-16T12:15:52.120" UserId="203" Comment="Fix grammar, Add tags" Text="Hard disk case, similar to the included image" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29473" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="f0c4359c-1402-4bfa-8a67-e74f94cd9a19" CreationDate="2018-04-16T12:15:52.120" UserId="203" Comment="Fix grammar, Add tags" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;durability&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29474" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8555" RevisionGUID="ddedb405-6d5a-4b25-8014-268e96f2488f" CreationDate="2018-04-16T12:41:09.450" UserId="1203" Comment="added 687 characters in body" Text="Update: Three different T-Mobile employees lied to me (&quot;Any tablet that says 4G or LTE works&quot;). After I got the tablet, I tried to use it with my sim card. It wouldn't work, so I called their support. They suddenly mention something about an [IMEI number][1]. I read the number off the device. They now tell me it won't work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I have a cheap, low-powered Windows 10 tablet wasting away in my desk at work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect you can't get just *any* device you want with an always on connection, and I further suspect I'll have to get a &quot;hotspot&quot; if I want to use my data plan on a linux device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I asked this question here because I felt it was very difficult to find exactly what I was looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was right.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Dead Ends&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I used Google. I searched Amazon, ebay, newegg, T-mobile (my wireless provider), and even Google's shopping. Then I found a site called Frequency Check that would let me search by frequency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having been given 1700/2100 bands by a guy at T-Mobile, that's what I primarily searched for - but later I was told by multiple T-Mobile sources that anything with LTE or 4G would work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, the models I was finding on Frequency Check were not showing up in my searches. It turned out that, when I could find them, they were only available on the foreign versions of sites. Out of desperation, I started to consider trying to make a purchase from a Chinese site using Google Translate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### The Holy Grail&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After much searching and wondering what I was missing (since I knew the market for this could not have completely died in the USA), I finally decided to watch some CES videos on Youtube, and then I Googled &quot;CES tablet&quot; for a rundown, and finally found what seems to be an ideal 2 in 1 tablet, the [Alcatel Plus 10][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This *still* seemed only available from non-US sources, at least directly from Alcatel's site. But then I found a new in box factory unlocked one on ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my original requirements lined up with my conclusion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&quot; - The keyboard has LTE, and by some descriptions can provide connections for up to 15 other people.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;easily rooted&quot; - well, it comes with Windows 10 home, and it is unlocked, so while I won't get the experience of rooting an android tablet... I only have so much time... and I'll have administrator access on the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;can run Linux or Android's linux&quot; - Windows 10 home should provide me with a Linux subsystem, but I'm also entirely prepared to install straight Linux on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Bluetooth&quot; - this was important because I wanted to get a clamshell keyboard, but I suppose I can do without it. However, I just checked the specs and it's supposed to be included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better&quot; - well, I suppose I can get a [bluetooth mouse now][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a regular tablet to navigate when I get off the subway&quot; - I do worry about this a bit, it's a little larger than my almost 8 inch tablet that I used to use to navigate, and google maps was an app only a few taps away, but the keyboard is supposed to include GPS - so I guess we'll see what happens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a laptop at meetups&quot; based on the form-factor, I think I can stop lugging my larger Lenovo Yoga around in a backpack now, a major improvement for my lifestyle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;pipe video to a big screen from it when presenting or demoing code&quot;  - It has HDMI mini, so I suppose I need a cable and/or an adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;utilize it as a mini screen to expand my laptop's desktop size when working at home&quot; - Still not sure how I'll do this, but I still want to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hard part about this specific model is that I couldn't easily find a seller in the US. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I scored - I managed to snag what was advertised as the last one on ebay, new in the box, unlocked, [for ~$310][4] including a 2 year warranty (which I hope not to use, and didn't mind spending less than $30 for).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I was prepared to spend as much just on a tablet and more for a clamshell laptop-y case (probably another $100) I think I have found a solution that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (another of my requests).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sidenotes: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A possible competitor was the [Asus Zenpad 10, also ~$300][5], with Android and an optional dockable keyboard (noted in the early promotional material) but I could not find the optional keyboard accessory for sale anywhere- which I would expect to be pricey anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am usually reticent to buy things as complex as computers or phones on ebay, but given the difficulty of my search and my inability to find a seller through other venues, I really had no choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Mobile_Equipment_Identity&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.alcatel-mobile.com/gb/plus-10#technical-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Windows-Tablets-910-003971/dp/B00JUHDYSO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alcatel-Plus-10-Convertible-Tablet-Windows-10-32GB-White/192075112453?epid=625706183&amp;hash=item2cb891a005:g:ujYAAOSwa~BYdRR2&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ASUS-ZenPad-10-Z301MFL-10-1-inch-3GB-32GB-GSM-ONLY-UNLOCKED-Tablet-PC/362023344374?hash=item544a45d8f6:m:mgUWhkNnMi92rC4MSflnEnQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9097" RevisionGUID="7878d05f-90f4-4305-9ea5-e0f86662d337" CreationDate="2018-04-16T14:07:41.873" UserId="9084" Text="The real problem is that the difference between an external hard drive and an external hard drive enclosure is whether or not there's a drive in it.  Most of the manufacturers sell the enclosures separately, and those enclosures have little-to-no shock absorption when dropped.  This is because an HDD is intended to be a stationary form of media. SSD have no moving parts, so rather than perfect the enclosures, the preference is to use SSD. It's also common to use BD-ROM, if it's read-only media, because they have a decent lifespan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, remember that the average hard disk only lasts [three to five years in perfect conditions.](https://blog.storagecraft.com/data-storage-lifespan/).  This is part of why datacenters are all dropping the HDD in favor of the SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A thing in common with all of these enclosures is that they won't fit some of your optional requests. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Support multi-disk integration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you mean an enclosure that fits multiple drives at once.  At that point, it's expected you want a NAS, so you usually just find small computer cases for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Have the independent power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Have dust resistant design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This requires an airtight seal, effectively.  That drastically increases heat, which is a drive killer. Most cases for HDDs actually have fans to dissipate heat or vent holes (pictured) to prevent trapping heat against the drive. This outlines your need for something which isn't sensitive to dust due to a lack of moving parts (i.e., an SSD). Even if it's sealed properly and cooled, the seals are rubberized or foam and wear with time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixed on the case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length (even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see the problem, but integrating a cable is never a solution. SATA cables are cheap, simple cables that need replacing from time to time.  SATA extension cables are readily available for power supplies with a SATA connector, for about $3 US a piece.  You can get long SATA cables similarly. These plug into my SAS-&gt;SATA adapter just fine ($15 part on Amazon).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;The frame of the case can be easily disassembled and reassembled with a standard screwdriver for cleaning and maintenance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can't have this and a dust-tight seal, most of the time.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd take a step back and look at your problem.  It sounds like you need to store Terabytes at a time in a portable manner, but that data may be rewritten in full repeatedly.  While you have drives now, you're looking at spending around $100 on specific, high-quality external components per drive.  You're in an environment where small particles are a factor and interfere with your moving parts, and you're trying to plan around SAS drive compatibility (which means 15000 RPM Server HDD). With all of that, your expenses will build rapidly.  For a bit more, you can just start using enterprise-level SSD like Amazon Web Services and similar use. For around $250, you can get an SSD @ 1TB and $400 gets an SSD @ 2TB.  They generate less heat, are less heat-sensitive, have a lower TDP, have no moving parts, are completely enclosed to prevent contact from dust, and can take a drop without losing data.  While an SSD ages faster if you write to the whole drive repeatedly, they still last physically about twice as long as an HDD and don't suffer from fragmentation issues.   For your needs, that's a better way to spend your money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you absolutely must use your HDD in a portable manner, I recommend a dock and a carrying case as two separate components. Something like [this](https://www.eagletechusa.com/collections/ineo/products/i-nc10) would one-shot handle your portability needs, and you can just plug in and use the drives in a dock to purpose.  To fit your SAS needs, all you'll need to do is find a dock that exposes its internal SATA connection so you can connect your adapter. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9098" RevisionGUID="a4abe1bf-3d36-40a5-9381-68b294f6bf02" CreationDate="2018-04-16T14:34:33.523" UserId="9084" Text="I personally use the [Thermaltake WP200][1].  That is, the W200 core chassis atop the P200 extension chassis.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It follows the &quot;if it's interior, it's metal&quot; approach, right down to the removable motherboard tray on one side.  It currently houses TWO computers and came with power and USB headers for both; my i7 2600k on one side and my i7 8700k on the other, both overclocked and both with the massive Noctua D15-class heat sink and fans mounted on them without affecting case clearance.  Both use an EATX motherboard.  The case comes with no fans (nor should you typically trust a fan that comes with a case), but instead has mounting racks for multiple configurations.  Right now, the whole machine is air-cooled.  I have about 30 case fans running either in the case mounted modules, face panel, or on the actual heat sinks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The P200 section serves mostly as where I manage my power connections and cables, as it contains induction fans and two 800w power supplies to supplement the 1200w one in the W200 area (and if I didn't use the EATX on the side with the removable mobo tray, I could have fit another 1200W there as well). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drive racks are plastic, but it's a durable plastic, and they're made of plastic to keep them light.  This is because they can mount more than one way.  While the racks can fit in metal modules for the face of the machine, I reserved that for optical drives, a hot-swap bay, and headers.  Instead, I use the plastic racks to &quot;hang&quot; the drives into clip-lock bays that are on one side of the metal divider on the inside of the case, which makes swapping them easy if I want.  They use plastic locks instead of screws to hold the drives, which makes for quieter HDDs and easier replacement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, it comes with modular connections that assist with cable management, and can fit multiple radiators for elite watercoolers.  The case can accept 120mm and 140mm fans in the same fan bays and racks.  The racks for the fans or radiators all hold with steel thumb screws so they are steady and I don't have to just depend on the optional plastic locks that can hold them into place (this case allows you to be lazy, I guess, but you don't have to be).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fan induction points can be covered with a magnetically-fixed metal screen that comes with the unit (one for each potential point).  This keeps dust out and extends fan life, and makes cleaning your fan filters as simple as just a quick wipe over the trash can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use rubber feet, but this thing is HEAVY when it's fully assembled and loaded with tech.   We're talking 85-125 lbs depending on what you put in it.  This upgrades your computer to furniture.  I highly recommend using the castors it comes with instead of the feet, so you can just roll it around to move it.  Otherwise, get a dolly with some straps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only complaints I have are its loaded weight and the way the external panels fit. They connect via plastic knobs (thick and durable) that are grabbed by plastic tension brackets in the external panel (replaceable but sort of flimsy).  The panels never fall off, but the top lid is currently missing one of its tension brackets, which makes correctly aligning the top and locking it in place a little annoying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Also, the panels can be detached for painting so you can safely customize yourself if you want without harming the tech.  The Thermaltake &quot;TT&quot; logo is on the face panels, but is otherwise kept minimal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002895" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29478" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="8928567b-6ec3-465e-bc13-6249182a0cd2" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:07:26.287" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="I'm looking for the &quot;Apple Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac&quot;, but I'm not sure if it exists, as I haven't been sucessful at finding in on my own.&#xA;&#xA;Could anyone be able to tell me if such card exists for MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29479" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="8928567b-6ec3-465e-bc13-6249182a0cd2" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:07:26.287" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="Is there an Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29480" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="8928567b-6ec3-465e-bc13-6249182a0cd2" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:07:26.287" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 203, -1 edit id of 677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29481" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="486a010e-e5b1-479a-86da-8c084fdf078a" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:07:26.287" UserId="60" Comment="Grammar, Formatting" Text="I'm looking for the &quot;Apple Airport Extreme Card 802.11ac&quot;, but I'm not sure if it exists, as I haven't been successful at finding it on my own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone be able to tell me if such card exists for MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9091" RevisionGUID="b7fd7a6a-3bfa-47ab-952d-720a52ccd70e" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:17:08.590" UserId="60" Comment="Removed off-topic question" Text="I have some conductive ink that I want to use to print circuits. The current method involves painting the ink, but I would like a more precise method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of YouTube videos and such explaining how to refill an ink cartridge for an inkjet printer myself, but I would rather not use a cartridge that was previously filled with regular ink in order to avoid contamination.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any printers that cater to this niche market of people wanting to use odd inks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9099" RevisionGUID="fcb06533-0993-452c-ad3c-94819b5867ba" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:17:30.050" UserId="9084" Text="Printer companies specifically avoid doing this because their margin only comes from ink sales.  They usually lose money on the printer itself.  This is true of most accessory-based consumer electronics; Microsoft loses money on every X-Box line of product sold, and makes a killing on licensing developers to make its games and online marketplace surcharges. When I worked retail, a Lexmark rep once revealed to me that we were buying cartridges for $20 that we were selling for $45 and that Lexmark only spent $1 per cartridge to manufacture and ship them, but that they averaged a $10 loss per printer they sold, and that loss carried forward.   That's why the guy at the store just shoves ink in your cart without asking, and why the printer ships with half-filled ink and calls it a &quot;starter&quot; half the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This means you have more to deal with than just cleaning the cartridge.  You need to know your cartridges a little.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Don't do this with an HP inkjet.  They integrate the printhead onto the cartridge, which is sort of nice, but they also sometimes rig them to detect inks of a different density and refuse to print.  I don't have a link for that one, but I've seen it happen.  If the ink is thinner, it may fail to detect, but the custom head may just vomit ink all over the page because it's expecting a certain density.  Even just normal ink refills with them takes a little care, and ink quality matters. &#xD;&#xA; 2. Lexmark will work, but not all of their cartridges are refillable. &#xD;&#xA; 3. Single-color cartridge printers (i.e. C, M, Y, K are in their own containers) are ideal.  Brother, some Canon, Xerox, and Epson all do this. They warn that using your own ink voids your warranty, but the cartridge will accept the ink.  Also, many of the cartridges are clear, so you can visibly see the fill level, and you don't have to worry about screwing up filling a tri-color cartridge. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Knowing the above, I'd advise starting with Item 3 on the list; get a printer that uses single-tone, individual carts.  Got one?  Great.  Clear cartridge? Even better. Now to prep the cartridge. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You don't want to soak the cartridge in bleach or vinegar.  Bleach is a bad idea anyway as it leaves a residue which may affect the ink.  Vinegar will break the dried ink up and flush it out, but it's likely to damage the rubber seals on the cartridge or expand the rubber so that it doesn't fit right anymore.  Always start with hot water and just observe the cartridge contents to see if it flushes (clear cartridge benefit, of course).  If you get all of the ink out, great.  If you have splatted hunks of dried ink inside, then vinegar might be your only (safe) solution, but don't let it stand for long, or you can damage the cartridge as mentioned above. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Allow to dry before refilling with your ink.  Keep in mind that a viscous ink and a watery ink aren't the same thing; if your printer normally dumps thin ink and you put in conductive ink, it may give you some spotty or splotchy results. I'd start small, here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29485" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9094" RevisionGUID="f2b6173a-5bad-4097-bd0d-fa57ccb9d079" CreationDate="2018-04-17T00:31:40.900" UserId="7932" Comment="added 293 characters in body" Text="The quality of portable hard disks have been underwhelming for me, so I want to use datacenter hard disks to store my data (Some of my data are being accessed and overwritten frequently, so I need datacenter hard disks). However the protection of internal disk is not so good. To give more protection to my hard disk, I want to buy a hard disk case. What I want is something like shown in the image below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A 1.5 TB WD Green in a metal enclosure.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it also had the following features (***optional***):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Support multi-disk integration(for RAID).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Have the independent power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Have fiber dust(major from cloth and carpet) resistant design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Have vibration(major from tower air conditioner with high performance, table-based electric fans(the enclosure is also placed on the table) and fresh air exchange system(fixed in the wall and can make the ground vibrating)) absorbing design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. The SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixed on the case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length (even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. The frame of the case can be easily disassembled and reassembled with a standard screwdriver for cleaning and maintenance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone have any experience about that, please, give me some hint or guide. Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/U26IO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29488" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="696918fd-5fc9-4835-840b-dcd740aa64f2" CreationDate="2018-04-17T08:33:09.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29489" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="1a2ceaec-162d-4eea-b700-0ef1de3f84aa" CreationDate="2018-04-17T13:33:09.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29490" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="4245eefb-fd27-4748-b30f-556abee2ba37" CreationDate="2018-04-17T14:34:48.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29491" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="91882733-3365-4b0c-9a95-03c128c00880" CreationDate="2018-04-17T15:37:16.093" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29496" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9101" RevisionGUID="a3cf76b4-0452-4748-b4c4-997fbdbf6126" CreationDate="2018-04-18T12:16:34.967" UserId="9175" Text="I have a live stream running that sends a 1080p video stream to Youtube. It receives the data from a camera in the network, converts the stream (using ffmpeg) and uploads it to the Youtube channel. Right now, I am using a Raspberry Pi 3 runing Raspbian Stretch Lite for this which works alright, but I did have some crash issues in the past. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: These issues appeared after about a month of streaming without rebooting. I implemented an automatic reboot now which might solve this problem. It would still be nice to have a system that can run reliably for a long time without crashing.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have a recommendation for a small computer or microcontroller that can handle long time streaming like this? Necessary features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - network interface (wireless or ethernet cable)       &#xD;&#xA; - dust proof (it is positioned beneath the floor - a fan cooling would&#xD;&#xA;   probably get clogged easily)&#xD;&#xA; - enough CPU/memory power for handling ffmpeg for a long time (with&#xD;&#xA;   reboots every night)&#xD;&#xA; - size around 15 x 15 x 10 cm (w x d x h)&#xD;&#xA; - if possible, below 100 Euros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29497" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9101" RevisionGUID="a3cf76b4-0452-4748-b4c4-997fbdbf6126" CreationDate="2018-04-18T12:16:34.967" UserId="9175" Text="Reliable computer for live streaming video to youtube 24/7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29498" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9101" RevisionGUID="a3cf76b4-0452-4748-b4c4-997fbdbf6126" CreationDate="2018-04-18T12:16:34.967" UserId="9175" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29499" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="70009276-296c-4bc3-bef5-ae06370a1104" CreationDate="2018-04-18T15:47:41.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29500" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9102" RevisionGUID="ff5af563-0d9f-43d7-8b46-a664b5fa6f5e" CreationDate="2018-04-18T16:41:49.023" UserId="9176" Text="I am looking to go big on cores and have bought the Intel i9 7980XE 18 core processor. I'm trying to find a sane list of parts that will be compatible - I haven't built a computer for about 10 years and things have changed!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These guys have a list for the 7960X but I'm wondering if the parts are good enough to deal with the 7980XE?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0VtuTiwi-k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Prime X299-Deluxe Mother Board&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic Prime Titanium 1000 SSR-1000TD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung SSD 850 Pro 2TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung SSD 850 EVO 2TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung NVMe SSD 960 Pro M.2 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung NVMe 960 Pro M.2 512GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fractal Design Define R5 w/o window white case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fractal Design CPU Water Cooler Celsius S36&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fractal Fans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX1080ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard Drives WD 6TB Green&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have a few questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing i'm wondering is about the storage. They seem to be recommending 5 hard drives. I've never heard of these nvme m.2 drives before but presumably if I only need a small amount of storage then the 512GB m.2 one will be enough for everything, no need for the 1TB m.2 or the other SSDs right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the 650 Watt version of the power supply (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-Prime-Titanium-Modular-Supply/dp/B01HXYRJYK) be enough to fuel everything?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need a mega graphics card. This isn't going to be a gaming machine and all I need is to connect an HDMI screen. Can you give me a reason to not get a really cheap graphics card like this? https://www.ebuyer.com/806221-asus-geforce-gt-710-graphics-card-gt710-sl-1gd5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29501" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9102" RevisionGUID="ff5af563-0d9f-43d7-8b46-a664b5fa6f5e" CreationDate="2018-04-18T16:41:49.023" UserId="9176" Text="Intel i9 7980XE Are these parts compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29502" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9102" RevisionGUID="ff5af563-0d9f-43d7-8b46-a664b5fa6f5e" CreationDate="2018-04-18T16:41:49.023" UserId="9176" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9103" RevisionGUID="d3424bba-3863-449d-b8fb-dbcf5d2e0607" CreationDate="2018-04-18T19:11:47.603" UserId="9084" Text="Knocking through the questions: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Storage is really up to you.   M2 drives are just a really fast connection that enjoys about 4x the write speed of SATA.  This means, from the perspective of a user, near instantaneous reads and writes.  Beyond that, it's basically the same technology as a normal SSD, so you're talking quarter seconds versus full seconds.  If you're making your storage decisions based on speed, SSD and M2 are the way to go. Same for longevity, as they last a couple of years longer than a classic mechanical HDD.  If you're basing it on capacity alone, you would obviously want HDD, but you may prefer a BD-RW that can write to [M-Disc](http://www.mdisc.com/mdisc-technology/) and a few of those discs for your long-term, read-only media like pictures of the family. The expense is higher but you'd get better storage than any of the other solutions for longevity. &#xD;&#xA; 2. With all of that hardware, a 650w PSU will be cutting it close, especially with a 1080ti in there (we will get to that in a second).  The PSU is one of the most important purchases in a PC or server build of any kind.  I'd look in the 850w+ range from a company with a good reputation and support like Antec or EVGA. The CPU may be an extremely important part of a computer purchase, but without the PSU, the CPU is just a block of expensive and cold silicon.  With a bad one, your whole build can die in a literal fire.  Never skimp on the PSU. &#xD;&#xA; 3. If you don't plan to game and aren't buying four of them to mine bitcoin and make gamers hate you for inflating the price even further, you don't need the 1080ti.  Not only is this WAY overpowered if you are just using the machine for a server and HTPC, but it's also not financially wise right now.  Video card prices are horribly inflated due to the fact GPUs are what you use to mine cryptocurrency, and it's killing the supply while the craze continues. I wouldn't bother with the GT-710, though.  It's an older card.  Honestly, if the most you plan to do is watch a movie as far as graphics are concerned, I would just get a 1050 or 950.  That motherboard doesn't appear to have HDMI out; if it did, I'm pretty sure you wouldn't need a video card, as I think the i9 still has the on-die video capability that the other series processors have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just as a personal note, if you're not primarily running this as a server, that i9 won't get put to use.   Modern processors for personal use typically cap out at the next step down.  The i9 and the AMD Threadripper are specifically intended for massive amounts of multitasking and multithreaded activities such as video encoding (as in, from scratch in a video editing environment) or server-grade shared processing.  If you're not using this for a professional purpose like that, you will save money and even get increased performance out of an i7 or an i5 in comparison.  Please note in [this benchmark][1] that a new-generation i7 that costs 1/6th the price outperforms the i9 you have selected in applications that use less than 5 cores; that's 90% of the consumer software market.  File server use won't change much between processors; that's not a CPU intensive activity.  If you plan to host applications for your whole household or business to be clients to this as a server, however, the i9 would be more worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-7980XE-vs-Intel-Core-i7-8700K/m352013vs3937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="571864d4-0eb1-43a3-a6ff-8e5155fa39ca" CreationDate="2018-04-18T21:17:15.433" UserId="9174" Text="I need a notebook to use **Android Studio**. Which one below is better (all models have 8GB RAM and 15.6&quot; FHD screen)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And what is most important in my case (RAM, Processor, SSD...)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also recommend me another model, but notice that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a notebook, not a desktop&#xD;&#xA; - I want to keep this notebook for at least 5 years (but I can upgrade specific things like SSD or RAM)&#xD;&#xA; - I can not afford a notebook that costs above R$ 4,000 (~ $ 1,180 - import taxes included)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Expert X51**][1] (R$ 3,040)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**LG Gram 15Z970-E.BH71P1**][2] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5 7200U&#xD;&#xA; - 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Asus Vivobook X510UR-BQ292T**][3] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 8550U&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce 930MX 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Gaming Odyssey**][4] (R$ 3,900)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1050 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/132165843/notebook-samsung-expert-x51-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-940mx-de-2gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15.6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_g35174&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhny4w4r4oIxfVcN1ZINU1UJFnrjlyqWouesyMd-aEDzGnpmX_-UCC3hoCopAQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=XMLGOOGLE&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132170474/notebook-lg-gram-15z970-e.bh71p1-intel-core-i5-8gb-128ssd-tela-full-hd-ips-15-6-windows-10-cinza-escuro?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_gmv&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MvWBRC8ARIsAOFSVBVAccv0SX2QSR32TiP0hRTI9HNBxvHgg65gPQM5kPBw3UZuzV1Xd9gaAhMvEALw_wcB&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/133282726/notebook-asus-vivobook-x510ur-bq292t-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-930mx-de-2-gb-1tb-tela-15-6-windows-10-home-cinza?franq=AFL-03-48365&amp;opn=COMPARADORESSUB&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&amp;voltagem=BIVOLT&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132118334/notebook-samsung-gaming-odyssey-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-gtx-1050-de-4gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15-6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_pla_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_apostas&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhn_kyhRuU5dloM5NspzO5Jbja4pEgqeOPffeEOVtNVK736gM1qbMLvRoCjdkQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29509" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="571864d4-0eb1-43a3-a6ff-8e5155fa39ca" CreationDate="2018-04-18T21:17:15.433" UserId="9174" Text="Which notebook is better to use Android Studio?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29510" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="571864d4-0eb1-43a3-a6ff-8e5155fa39ca" CreationDate="2018-04-18T21:17:15.433" UserId="9174" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29512" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="9d275b2f-ed60-4543-a7e8-4accd182d979" CreationDate="2018-04-18T21:35:58.150" UserId="9174" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I need a notebook to use **Android Studio**. Which one below is better (all models have 8GB RAM and 15.6&quot; FHD screen)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And what is most important in my case (RAM, Processor, SSD...)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also recommend me another model, but notice that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a notebook, not a desktop&#xD;&#xA; - I want to keep this notebook for at least 5 years (but I can upgrade specific things like SSD or RAM)&#xD;&#xA; - I can not afford a notebook that costs above R$ 4,000 (~ US$ 1,180 - import taxes included)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Expert X51**][1] (R$ 3,040)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**LG Gram 15Z970-E.BH71P1**][2] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5 7200U&#xD;&#xA; - 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Asus Vivobook X510UR-BQ292T**][3] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 8550U&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce 930MX 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Gaming Odyssey**][4] (R$ 3,900)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1050 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/132165843/notebook-samsung-expert-x51-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-940mx-de-2gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15.6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_g35174&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhny4w4r4oIxfVcN1ZINU1UJFnrjlyqWouesyMd-aEDzGnpmX_-UCC3hoCopAQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=XMLGOOGLE&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132170474/notebook-lg-gram-15z970-e.bh71p1-intel-core-i5-8gb-128ssd-tela-full-hd-ips-15-6-windows-10-cinza-escuro?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_gmv&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MvWBRC8ARIsAOFSVBVAccv0SX2QSR32TiP0hRTI9HNBxvHgg65gPQM5kPBw3UZuzV1Xd9gaAhMvEALw_wcB&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/133282726/notebook-asus-vivobook-x510ur-bq292t-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-930mx-de-2-gb-1tb-tela-15-6-windows-10-home-cinza?franq=AFL-03-48365&amp;opn=COMPARADORESSUB&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&amp;voltagem=BIVOLT&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132118334/notebook-samsung-gaming-odyssey-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-gtx-1050-de-4gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15-6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_pla_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_apostas&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhn_kyhRuU5dloM5NspzO5Jbja4pEgqeOPffeEOVtNVK736gM1qbMLvRoCjdkQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29513" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="ea1c7c29-f994-446b-b5ca-a528045d20a6" CreationDate="2018-04-18T21:41:29.700" UserId="9174" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I need a notebook to use **Android Studio**. Which one below is better (all models have 8GB RAM and 15.6&quot; FHD screen)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And what is most important in my case (RAM, Processor, SSD...)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also recommend me another model, but notice that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want a notebook, not a desktop&#xD;&#xA; - I want to keep this notebook for at least 5 years (but I can upgrade specific things like SSD or RAM)&#xD;&#xA; - I can not afford a notebook that costs above R$ 4,000 (~ US$ 1,180 - import taxes included)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Expert X51**][1] (R$ 3,040)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 7500 U&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**LG Gram 15Z970-E.BH71P1**][2] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i5 7200U&#xD;&#xA; - 128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Asus Vivobook X510UR-BQ292T**][3] (R$ 3,500)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 8550U&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce 930MX 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Samsung Gaming Odyssey**][4] (R$ 3,900)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 7700HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB HD&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1050 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/132165843/notebook-samsung-expert-x51-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-940mx-de-2gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15.6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_g35174&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhny4w4r4oIxfVcN1ZINU1UJFnrjlyqWouesyMd-aEDzGnpmX_-UCC3hoCopAQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=XMLGOOGLE&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132170474/notebook-lg-gram-15z970-e.bh71p1-intel-core-i5-8gb-128ssd-tela-full-hd-ips-15-6-windows-10-cinza-escuro?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_gmv&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MvWBRC8ARIsAOFSVBVAccv0SX2QSR32TiP0hRTI9HNBxvHgg65gPQM5kPBw3UZuzV1Xd9gaAhMvEALw_wcB&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.submarino.com.br/produto/133282726/notebook-asus-vivobook-x510ur-bq292t-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-930mx-de-2-gb-1tb-tela-15-6-windows-10-home-cinza?franq=AFL-03-48365&amp;opn=COMPARADORESSUB&amp;sellerId=00776574000660&amp;voltagem=BIVOLT&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.americanas.com.br/produto/132118334/notebook-samsung-gaming-odyssey-intel-core-i7-8gb-geforce-gtx-1050-de-4gb-1tb-tela-led-full-hd-15-6-windows-10-preto?WT.srch=1&amp;epar=bp_pl_00_go_pla_inf_notebooks_todas_geral_apostas&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2dvWBRBvEiwADllhn_kyhRuU5dloM5NspzO5Jbja4pEgqeOPffeEOVtNVK736gM1qbMLvRoCjdkQAvD_BwE&amp;opn=YSMESP&amp;sellerId=00776574000660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9106" RevisionGUID="6c92bae9-acff-422b-b7b0-b49f9d9b972f" CreationDate="2018-04-18T22:42:50.403" UserId="6047" Text="The laptops you linked seems to have slightly inflated prices given what they are able to bring to the table. Allow me to counter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## MSI GL Series GL63 8RC-068 $1,099.00 (3714.95 Brazilian Reals) @ [Newegg][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monstrous laptop hits right in the middle of the price ranges of laptops you linked and outclasses each and every one of them in terms of specs. It comes armed with the latest **Intel Core i7 8th Gen 8750H**, note that the laptops you linked used the **U series, which are under-powered** in order to be more energy efficient. It comes with a **128 GB SSD**, but **this is no ordinary SSD**. This is a M.2 Sata SSD with **gigabit level reads and writes**. It also comes with an **additional 1TB traditional Hard Drive**. Most notable it features a **GeForce GTX 1050 4 GB**, but **you can upgrade this to the TI variant for an additional $98**. An additional nice feature, is that MSI laptops come with it's **steel series keyboard which features anti-ghosting technology for a great typing experience** (I personally own an MSI GS-60 Ghost).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not only will this be **absolute overkill for simple android development**, it is capable of heavier development, allowing you to virtualize servers and android VM emulation for testing. Last but not least, it will enable you to handle resource heavy game development should you delve into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that it to be a reasonable estimate to say that this laptop will last you the greater part of a decade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last but not least, the link to the site I gave would allow you to purchase this laptop today with free shipping to Brazil.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/br/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16834154821&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/atGCa.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9107" RevisionGUID="1247f5c8-3949-4b85-9100-416b39a6ebff" CreationDate="2018-04-19T00:59:43.053" UserId="9180" Text="I need a new laptop, and I have a few requirements for it, does anyone know if any can be found like this under the 2000 canadian dollars?&#xD;&#xA;I have found a few laptops that are really close to meetng these requirements but they are always missing one piece or another:&#xD;&#xA;touchscreen display, 15.6 inch,&#xD;&#xA;backlit keyboard,&#xD;&#xA;16 GB ram,&#xD;&#xA;i7 quad core,&#xD;&#xA;graphics card not integrated graphics,&#xD;&#xA;1TB storage,&#xD;&#xA;win 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9107" RevisionGUID="1247f5c8-3949-4b85-9100-416b39a6ebff" CreationDate="2018-04-19T00:59:43.053" UserId="9180" Text="What are the cheapest laptops available with the following specifications?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9107" RevisionGUID="1247f5c8-3949-4b85-9100-416b39a6ebff" CreationDate="2018-04-19T00:59:43.053" UserId="9180" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29519" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8073" RevisionGUID="81bc2d2d-b5b9-4b0f-83e7-5b0b2102f63c" CreationDate="2018-04-19T05:55:52.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29520" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9108" RevisionGUID="f85eba4a-9913-4689-a231-c38bc4067945" CreationDate="2018-04-19T12:06:57.867" UserId="9084" Text="You've done a really good job of shopping your machine.  The specs on that computer are good for your budget, and the 1050 Ti has 4GB of texture memory, which isn't bad for graphic design, as you'll be making some rather large textures at times. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only problem I see is that you have a 1080p display.  This is great for personal use and gaming, as the laptop itself will have a smaller display.  It will turn into a headache if a client wants 4k graphics or you also do some 2D work (which you will) and someone asks you to design a billboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason many designers use Mac is largely because the Retina display they have is usually higher resolution and is honestly a fantastic, very clear display that shows tiny flaws in textures you might otherwise miss.  That said, I personally hate Macs because they swallow most of their errors into logs only &quot;Apple Geniuses&quot; are permitted to read so that people keep thinking they don't break, compatibility is lower, and they are overpriced.   I would never recommend one.  What I would recommend is a better display.  In a laptop, this will cost you and will be what puts your video card through its paces, but that doesn't mean pay more for an upgraded display on the laptop.  What it does mean is buy a monitor.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The modern graphics design market doesn't usually have you work on-site unless you are a full-hire employee, in which case they will supply what you need. If they don't, **they probably will be a bad employer to work for full-time**. Instead, you'll meet with clients and potential employers and then once you hammer out what they want, you'll go home and put together a very general, unusable sketch-up of what they want to make sure you understand. Then the contract price will be determined based on the amount of work you expect to put into it, usually by the hour or bulk payments at certain steps. Once you are fully paid, you deliver the finished product.  Your designs will take *hours or days* to complete, particularly on your 3D contracts, so the employer won't be hovering over your shoulder and you'll do most of that at home. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For those reasons, I recommend you buy a companion 4k monitor as soon as you can.  *You still want the laptop* as a graphic designer who walks into a meeting and doesn't have the ability to demonstrate something looks like a fool and doesn't get selected for contracts.  If you can go as high as $1500 USD or so, you can get a decent video card with a 4k monitor on the laptop, but from experience, I can tell you a secondary monitor with greater resolution is a better way to spend your money.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a personal note, you will want a desktop at one point, but that's more of a nice-to-have for a graphic designer that only becomes a need once you begin to build your client base.  The laptop will go with you everywhere, and even once you're working mostly from the desktop, your ability to demo from your laptop will be how you seal contracts. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9109" RevisionGUID="d39a2b35-ec63-4ef9-9059-dc103e33e535" CreationDate="2018-04-19T12:41:01.670" UserId="4896" Text="As cybernard says, the only benefit of the laptop is mobility. And I don't see an overwhelming need for you to prioritise mobility over power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the downside of laptops is power, cost and maintenance. You get less for your money, and seemingly equivalent components will be less powerful, and you won't be able to upgrade/replace components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mobile 1050Ti is unusual in that it is at least as powerful as the desktop version - for some reason it has higher clock speeds. But with the money save with a desktop PC, you could upgrade your card to maybe a 6GB 1060, which is significantly more powerful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of CPU, a vanilla desktop i7 7700 is approx 20% faster that the 7700HQ. And I would imagine that cheaper/larger disk drives will also benefit you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptops also have a problem with heat - they have a host of heat dissipation problems that desktops don't have, so you may well fine that a) your laptop would get hot and noisy during large jobs, and b) that the sustained hard work will take a much greater toll on longevity.... a laptop will usually be on it's knees long before a desktop equivalent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the case for a desktop is overwhelming...unless you feel that mobility is a sufficient offset for all the drawbacks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29525" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9107" RevisionGUID="921a9ba3-abe1-4814-b040-15f498770c47" CreationDate="2018-04-19T22:00:53.147" UserId="6047" Comment="Formatting" Text="I looking for a new laptop with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Under 2000 Candian dollars&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - Back-lit keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - i7 series quad core&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated graphics card&#xD;&#xA; - 1TB of storage&#xD;&#xA; - Win 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a few laptops that are really close to meeting these requirements but they are always missing one piece or another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29526" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9107" RevisionGUID="921a9ba3-abe1-4814-b040-15f498770c47" CreationDate="2018-04-19T22:00:53.147" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 60 edit id of 678" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="f8233683-a564-4c07-a391-0104e9534e11" CreationDate="2018-04-20T07:36:00.280" UserId="9189" Text="Trying to find out what cpu upgrades I could possibly do for my Toshiba satellite l675d, everything I read made sense then I read more and now I'm just confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="f8233683-a564-4c07-a391-0104e9534e11" CreationDate="2018-04-20T07:36:00.280" UserId="9189" Text="What cpu upgrade choices do I have?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="f8233683-a564-4c07-a391-0104e9534e11" CreationDate="2018-04-20T07:36:00.280" UserId="9189" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9112" RevisionGUID="ca0fca44-beb9-4606-8012-ef85ff1410a1" CreationDate="2018-04-20T11:42:59.913" UserId="9084" Text="That computer uses generation 4 (the final generation) of Socket S1.  There's a complete list of processors which can be used on your board [on this site.][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Sockets/Socket_S1_(S1g4).html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that nearly all of these CPUs are going to be, effectively, a lateral change (especially now).  An upgrade for that computer is basically a new computer. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9113" RevisionGUID="471f53ef-73f3-4d8d-95a0-f1806d722413" CreationDate="2018-04-20T12:50:13.323" UserId="4896" Text="Upgrading the CPU on a laptop is near impossible. Even if you could physically replace the CPU with another socket-compatible model, there is no guarantee it would work. Laptops are not designed to be upgraded, so consequently, OEMs can heavily lock down the hardware and the firmware - it is entirely possible that your machine is geared entirely to the original CPU, thus even if a new chip worked, it would not be able to realise the expected improvements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And again, even if you could do this, the benefit would be near-neglible. When you are facing an army of modern tanks, replacing your horse with a better horse won't do you any good! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tech on this laptop is obsolete, so either work within it's limited capability or put it out of its misery and buy a modern replacement.s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29532" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="bd107223-0d6b-4aa3-aada-2a4d2971ff9e" CreationDate="2018-04-20T13:12:15.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9116" RevisionGUID="01b9daaa-2a40-4f50-8a27-a96d9c20d08e" CreationDate="2018-04-20T14:53:52.123" UserId="9190" Text="I was referred here from the Raspberry Pi stack exchange.  I'm looking for a bluetooth module that can use an external SMA antenna, that I can interface with a raspberry pi.  I'm very new to raspberry pi, and fairly inexperienced in Bluetooth too, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've tried searching to find these answers to no avail, but if they've already been answered elsewhere, I'd be happy to read that thread too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ok, so I need a module that can do what I think is the bare minimum capabilities. All it needs to do is read the names of discoverable devices, and their RSS. That's it. Doesn't need to interpret any other type of data, doesn't need to be able to transmit data, doesn't even need to be able to pair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, again, it needs to be able to use an external SMA antenna.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like most of the chips that are bluetooth with external antennas seem to have been discontinued.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Do you know of currently-sold modules that could accomplish these goals?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) WiFi modules seem to often have external antennas... could I detect bluetooth devices and RSS with a Wifi module? I know they read similar frequencies, but I imagine they are somehow different and this wouldn't work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Would this piece of hardware work? It has an external antenna, but it seems like it's already built to interpret audio signals and deliver them as output. Not sure how I'd go about just getting the simple RSS and not all the other jazz. https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;path=65_110&amp;product_id=1003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29538" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9116" RevisionGUID="01b9daaa-2a40-4f50-8a27-a96d9c20d08e" CreationDate="2018-04-20T14:53:52.123" UserId="9190" Text="Bluetooth module with external antenna?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29539" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9116" RevisionGUID="01b9daaa-2a40-4f50-8a27-a96d9c20d08e" CreationDate="2018-04-20T14:53:52.123" UserId="9190" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29541" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9102" RevisionGUID="d7004fb2-4bc4-43fa-8dda-0ab00808bd49" CreationDate="2018-04-20T18:42:32.127" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="ffcbadba-49e1-43e0-9245-afe849e0e53c" CreationDate="2018-04-21T06:32:48.550" UserId="-1" Comment="Adjusted wording to minimize the term &quot;splitter&quot; which doesn't technically apply to USB devices, but describes the requested device better than &quot;hub&quot; in order to avoid unhelpful &quot;splitters don't exist&quot; answers. Cleaned up some grammar. " Text="While hubs can be found that adapt USB-C to many USB 3.0 ports, or to mDP etc., it seems there is no product out there that simply turns a single USB-C into two or more USB-C ports? Is there a fundamental reason why this would be impossible to do? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29559" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="ffcbadba-49e1-43e0-9245-afe849e0e53c" CreationDate="2018-04-21T06:32:48.550" UserId="-1" Comment="Adjusted wording to minimize the term &quot;splitter&quot; which doesn't technically apply to USB devices, but describes the requested device better than &quot;hub&quot; in order to avoid unhelpful &quot;splitters don't exist&quot; answers. Cleaned up some grammar. " Text="Are there ANY USB-C 'splitters' (hubs with multiple USB-C ports) in existence?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29560" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="ffcbadba-49e1-43e0-9245-afe849e0e53c" CreationDate="2018-04-21T06:32:48.550" UserId="-1" Comment="Adjusted wording to minimize the term &quot;splitter&quot; which doesn't technically apply to USB devices, but describes the requested device better than &quot;hub&quot; in order to avoid unhelpful &quot;splitters don't exist&quot; answers. Cleaned up some grammar. " Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29561" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="ffcbadba-49e1-43e0-9245-afe849e0e53c" CreationDate="2018-04-21T06:32:48.550" Comment="Proposed by 50.96.195.213|b5a78ecd-5ff6-4f70-b99f-0a9e43799b20 approved by 912, 203 edit id of 680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9118" RevisionGUID="297ef5d2-16cb-4823-b590-8b6524a339a3" CreationDate="2018-04-21T11:50:18.530" UserId="6811" Text="Ended up going with setup 1 and using this RFID-reader from Sparkfun. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I interface the reader by use of the Mercury library in a Python program. Super reliable reader I can highly recommend. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29563" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="54de76c6-6399-4921-85e9-a786f89f1548" CreationDate="2018-04-22T00:31:33.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29564" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="927652bc-bd43-43b1-8efc-e4fbc9aec14e" CreationDate="2018-04-22T02:33:24.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29566" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="24120d0a-b28b-4909-8e9b-f3c8ae3ef5fe" CreationDate="2018-04-22T03:33:24.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29571" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="dbdfbe6c-4d6b-4a2b-af58-aa06de8e0c30" CreationDate="2018-04-22T10:37:29.110" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9120" RevisionGUID="93f07588-9403-4577-83f1-d7eb2603093a" CreationDate="2018-04-22T23:26:58.060" UserId="77" Text="I have a wired ethernet network connection and want to broadcast it as wifi.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if there are any fairly cheap (&lt;£50) ethernet to wifi converter?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like http://www.tabletphonecase.com/sony-mini-wifi-router-vgp-war100?___store=ie would be ideal, if it wasn't for Sony VAIO's!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29573" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9120" RevisionGUID="93f07588-9403-4577-83f1-d7eb2603093a" CreationDate="2018-04-22T23:26:58.060" UserId="77" Text="Ethernet to wifi converter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29574" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9120" RevisionGUID="93f07588-9403-4577-83f1-d7eb2603093a" CreationDate="2018-04-22T23:26:58.060" UserId="77" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9122" RevisionGUID="c1f37e30-4a15-4ee4-8779-6596cbc8e1a8" CreationDate="2018-04-23T06:29:28.553" UserId="6328" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Found this cheap device which acts as a bridge, AP, router - all in one and is configurable with static ip, dns and gateway - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.edimax.com/edimax/mw/cufiles/files/download/manual/BR-6428NS_V4/BR-6428nS_V4_User_Manual_English_EN.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29579" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9123" RevisionGUID="700d5ec5-d5a0-4821-b9e2-ae3435004552" CreationDate="2018-04-23T10:31:26.750" UserId="1050" Text="The question is self-explanatory. I have an i5 4th gen and I'm planning to buy a new CPU. The i7 8700K looks pretty good, but someone told me to wait for 9th gen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All opinions and tips are appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29580" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9123" RevisionGUID="700d5ec5-d5a0-4821-b9e2-ae3435004552" CreationDate="2018-04-23T10:31:26.750" UserId="1050" Text="Buy i7 8700K or wait for 9th gen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29581" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9123" RevisionGUID="700d5ec5-d5a0-4821-b9e2-ae3435004552" CreationDate="2018-04-23T10:31:26.750" UserId="1050" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29582" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9123" RevisionGUID="d1376ef5-5990-45b2-adb1-84f1da6ec264" CreationDate="2018-04-23T10:37:34.247" UserId="1050" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="The question is self-explanatory. I have an i5 4th gen and I'm planning to buy a new CPU. The i7 8700K looks pretty good, but someone told me to wait for 9th gen (because of Spectre and Meltdown).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All opinions and tips are appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9125" RevisionGUID="94193420-67a4-4fb9-b5e4-353614128e2e" CreationDate="2018-04-23T13:08:56.913" UserId="9084" Text="[Spectre][1] and [Meltdown][2] have some things in common.  First, neither has been reported to be specifically used to attack any consumer system at all.  That's probably a matter of time, although with Meltdown you probably wouldn't know. Second, Intel has already begun to patch out the vulnerabilities, although they halted the patches back in January due to interference with actual CPU instructions in the wild and system stability problems that resulted. Finally, all of these require malware to reach your computer in the first place. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later this year, Intel is releasing more 8th-gen processors (not 9th) that should run a little slower but have the vulnerabilities removed.  No word on what's happening with the ARM processor, though.  AMD isn't affected by Meltdown but they are affected by Spectre and are in a similar boat. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While Spectre and Meltdown are new in *how* they work, they aren't unique in the fact they work at all.  Regardless of your processor, the wetware (read: human) operating the computer is always the actual security weakness.  They originate from malware on the machine that hijacks something critical to your system and uses it to break your security.  The malware which executes this will probably be in the wild a little longer than most (just because so many systems are affected), but Intel is releasing firmware patches going all the way back to 10 year old processors to fix it, so that should trim down the lifespan of such malware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That may have all read like any other malware suggestion, and that's because they're all basically the same.  Practice smart computing.  There will always be security vulnerabilities.  They are flavor-of-the-week in nature. The actual level of risk doesn't increase between processors for anyone except the marketing departments that want to sell more new processors.  Don't base buying a new processor on &quot;waiting for the next one&quot; or you'll just end up always waiting for the next one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectre_(security_vulnerability)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meltdown_(security_vulnerability)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9126" RevisionGUID="dc14dc50-b69c-4656-87ae-a1e93ebb7117" CreationDate="2018-04-23T13:30:15.620" UserId="9084" Text="You can't just &quot;go from ethernet to WiFi&quot; because these are two different types of signal.  Anything that advertises itself as an &quot;adapter&quot; is known as a Wireless Access Point (WAP).  These are made to connect to existing wireless networks. That said, they are made for existing wireless networks to which you have access to add Access Points.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that the little device for a VAIO you have in that link isn't an exception to this rule.  It's just a small one that uses a VAIO power adapter.  Beyond that, it's not different from any other.  WAPs and routers with a built-in WAP don't care who made your computer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also note that adding a WAP isn't like just connecting your phone to Starbucks Wi-Fi.  It usually requires access to the network as an administrator and a little bit of setup to make sure it's broadcasting on the same SID and, in the case of a portable router, is passing traffic and DHCP assignment management back to the router that actually runs the show. For that reason, a product like the one in your link will probably end up being a useless box of plastic, as taking it with you will still not enable connection to secure Wi-Fi in may cases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your goal was consuming Wi-Fi, I'd say get a USB wireless NIC.  Since your goal is to broadcast it as a hot spot, you'll find that this can work a couple of ways.  First, [Windows 10 has the ability to broadcast as a hot-spot using the existing hardware or a NIC like I just mentioned][1].  Your computer serves as the host.  Second, see what it will cost to use your phone as a hot-spot for your wireless carrier.  This is usually a per-megabit charge or an additional charge at a flat rate added to your bill to give your phone permission to do so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If what you really need is to connect multiple machines to wireless and allow them to connect to each other directly across that network, you'll need the WAP, but don't expect everywhere you go to accept your connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-turn-your-windows-10-pc-wireless-hotspot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29593" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9123" RevisionGUID="c8d46506-833b-48e2-af7c-e3701c7e7b5a" CreationDate="2018-04-23T15:32:21.643" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9127" RevisionGUID="4adc37ef-e57f-4ead-9e6e-21b73220c0fc" CreationDate="2018-04-23T18:47:49.497" UserId="9201" Text="I'm looking for some new closed-back over-ear / circumaural headphones in the region of £40-50 (about $45-60 USD before tax). They'll be connected directly to my PC, primarily for listening to music (all sorts) and a little gaming (but not looking for a headset).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not looking for wireless or noise-cancelling, just a nice pair of headphones that sound good and above all, are comfortable for long periods of wear (say a couple of hours). All suggestions are welcome, or any thoughts on the Pioneer MS5T I'm looking at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29595" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9127" RevisionGUID="4adc37ef-e57f-4ead-9e6e-21b73220c0fc" CreationDate="2018-04-23T18:47:49.497" UserId="9201" Text="Music headphone recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29596" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9127" RevisionGUID="4adc37ef-e57f-4ead-9e6e-21b73220c0fc" CreationDate="2018-04-23T18:47:49.497" UserId="9201" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29597" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="92866088-a92d-469a-8f61-4d22bd6d67be" CreationDate="2018-04-23T18:55:24.013" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29598" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9127" RevisionGUID="1e1eb953-645c-4b52-9d64-5b19322d5b0a" CreationDate="2018-04-23T19:54:07.100" UserId="9201" Comment="They don't absolutely have to be closed-back." Text="I'm looking for some new over-ear / circumaural headphones in the region of £40-50 (about $45-60 USD before tax). They'll be connected directly to my PC, primarily for listening to music (all sorts) and a little gaming (but not looking for a headset).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not looking for wireless or noise-cancelling, just a nice pair of headphones that sound good and above all, are comfortable for long periods of wear (say a couple of hours). All suggestions are welcome, or any thoughts on the Pioneer MS5T I'm looking at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29599" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9128" RevisionGUID="5b7f8805-466c-4046-bd21-d14489082490" CreationDate="2018-04-23T20:13:03.567" UserId="9200" Text="I'm looking for a fitness tracker which does not require uploading all my data to some server. It is ok if the device has this feature as long as I can just not use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care what i did a month ago. However I would like to check my heartrate while running/hiking and show distance and elevation gain/loss if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefere a small/light one. After that, the more features are usable without syncing the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29600" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9128" RevisionGUID="5b7f8805-466c-4046-bd21-d14489082490" CreationDate="2018-04-23T20:13:03.567" UserId="9200" Text="Fitness tracker without tracking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29601" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9128" RevisionGUID="5b7f8805-466c-4046-bd21-d14489082490" CreationDate="2018-04-23T20:13:03.567" UserId="9200" Text="&lt;passive-tracker&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29602" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="41030ffb-6c9b-4c3a-b1aa-a1b469244888" CreationDate="2018-04-23T21:57:03.763" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9129" RevisionGUID="7536475b-b04b-4327-8960-5d1f3832547f" CreationDate="2018-04-24T12:17:15.097" UserId="9185" Text="I'm looking for a wearable, preferred a wristband, to track my sleep cycles and wake me up (silently) at the best time according to what it tracks about me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has other features, such as activity/fitness tracking - cool, but that it won't be a must to wear it all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side/on bad trackers won't be very useful for me, since I live with my girlfriend and so we sleep together in the same bad. So it shouldn't be distracted by other people in the room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked [this question][1], but it's a year and a half old, so maybe there are new things on the market that I'm not aware of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations, or [jawbone][2] is still the best and maybe the only choice for that? Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6332/wearable-sleep-aid&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://jawbone.com/up/trackers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29606" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9129" RevisionGUID="7536475b-b04b-4327-8960-5d1f3832547f" CreationDate="2018-04-24T12:17:15.097" UserId="9185" Text="Sleep tracker wearable/wristband" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29607" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9129" RevisionGUID="7536475b-b04b-4327-8960-5d1f3832547f" CreationDate="2018-04-24T12:17:15.097" UserId="9185" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29608" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="82a19c52-4915-4c97-baec-fcc5ffbc1dbd" CreationDate="2018-04-24T22:58:37.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29609" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="d071f13f-7e22-43a1-90ec-fb9d5b46f676" CreationDate="2018-04-25T00:58:37.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9130" RevisionGUID="126c43fb-caa9-4954-91dc-865e1b4df9c5" CreationDate="2018-04-25T03:25:46.773" UserId="9206" Text="In a real world scenario, around 25-30 per AP gets the best out of the bandwidth of the access points. If you wanna a simple configuration, [FS AP-D1750][1] is recommended, its software is based on the OpenWRT program and updated through U -BOOT technology. This frees you from the application selection and configuration provided by the vendor and allows you to customize the device through the use of packages to suit any application. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fs.com/products/20013.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9132" RevisionGUID="0c8a3f51-a8dc-4eba-8e15-49672f6afae7" CreationDate="2018-04-25T13:09:14.017" UserId="1628" Text="I was looking at Android Oreo phones in the store the other day, and they all cost at least $500. Monthly contract payments very much do count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an inexpensive Oreo device out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29613" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9132" RevisionGUID="0c8a3f51-a8dc-4eba-8e15-49672f6afae7" CreationDate="2018-04-25T13:09:14.017" UserId="1628" Text="Inexpensive Android Oreo device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29614" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9132" RevisionGUID="0c8a3f51-a8dc-4eba-8e15-49672f6afae7" CreationDate="2018-04-25T13:09:14.017" UserId="1628" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9132" RevisionGUID="7e023d2a-30ae-4a1b-acc2-2153f80c7eae" CreationDate="2018-04-25T13:28:17.153" UserId="1628" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I was looking at Android Oreo phones and tablets in the store the other day, and they all cost at least $500. Monthly contract payments very much do count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there an inexpensive Oreo device out there?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9133" RevisionGUID="c693800a-2b8d-48a5-b8c5-4163c4bcb21c" CreationDate="2018-04-25T17:13:05.803" UserId="9209" Text="# Question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a device that is simply a box that acts as a USB mouse, with these &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A web-search for &quot;mouse button box&quot; returns pages with this $125 assistive  technology device, but it's not quite what I'm looking for, and is a bit pricey.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Contains hardware for left/right-click. (may have more buttons)&#xD;&#xA;2. Contains hardware for independent vertical/horizontal scroll wheels. (doesn't have to be a traditional scroll wheel, could be a spinner/knob/fly-wheel)&#xD;&#xA;3. Is ergonomically designed remain stationary, with emphasis on easy of pushing buttons and using scroll wheel devices.&#xD;&#xA;4. Which means, it probably does not contain hardware for actually moving the mouse cursor. That function would be performed with a separate piece of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;except it does not have a feature to move the mouse-cursor. Is&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Workarounds that I've tried&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried remapping keyboard keys to mouse clicks with programs like [AutoHotKey](https://autohotkey.com/) and [SharpKeys](https://github.com/randyrants/sharpkeys), but the solution isn't great. It's buggy and unresponsive at time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtBEN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9133" RevisionGUID="c693800a-2b8d-48a5-b8c5-4163c4bcb21c" CreationDate="2018-04-25T17:13:05.803" UserId="9209" Text="Device that is just mouse buttons and scroll wheels" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9133" RevisionGUID="c693800a-2b8d-48a5-b8c5-4163c4bcb21c" CreationDate="2018-04-25T17:13:05.803" UserId="9209" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29622" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="395b48cf-9cc8-4233-a2da-bc97ad56ae12" CreationDate="2018-04-26T06:02:24.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29623" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="ff92a7a7-9341-4496-abc0-839061038a82" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:02:30.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29624" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9135" RevisionGUID="221e930b-fda5-4efa-81ba-befd44da8414" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:15:59.607" UserDisplayName="user9212" Text="I need a mini speaker which looks like a flash drive and uses USB for both power and data (so it doesn’t use 3.5mm audio jack) for a Raspberry Pi project. It doesn’t have to be&#xA;&#xA; - So loud&#xA; - Super high quality&#xA;&#xA;But it has to&#xA;&#xA; - Be affordable&#xA; - Be small, preferably like a flash drive&#xA; - Have no cables (to plug in)&#xA;&#xA;Does such thing even exist? If it does, then please tell me, I have been searching since yesterday and didn’t find anything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29625" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9135" RevisionGUID="221e930b-fda5-4efa-81ba-befd44da8414" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:15:59.607" UserDisplayName="user9212" Text="Mini USB Powered Speaker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29626" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9135" RevisionGUID="221e930b-fda5-4efa-81ba-befd44da8414" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:15:59.607" UserDisplayName="user9212" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9136" RevisionGUID="94058b2a-191e-4501-9104-a59af5483143" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:29:28.683" UserDisplayName="user9212" Text="If all you need is Android Oreo, you can buy a [Raspberry Pi 3 B][1] (not B+!) for 35$ and install an [unofficial build of Android Oreo][2] on it, or you can install [Android-x86][3] on your computer, which costs nothing. Might not be the best option, but definitely the most affordable option.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92&#xA;  [2]: http://konstakang.com/devices/rpi3/LineageOS15.1/&#xA;  [3]: http://www.android-x86.org" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29628" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9135" RevisionGUID="fe30a410-a417-4320-9976-1b743a9661ab" CreationDate="2018-04-26T16:32:42.463" UserDisplayName="user9212" Comment="Remove a requirement to reduce confusion" Text="I need a mini speaker which looks like a flash drive and uses USB for both power and data (so it doesn’t use 3.5mm audio jack) for a Raspberry Pi project. It doesn’t have to be&#xA;&#xA; - So loud&#xA; - Super high quality&#xA;&#xA;But it has to&#xA;&#xA; - Be affordable&#xA; - Be small, preferably like a flash drive&#xA;&#xA;Does such thing even exist? If it does, then please tell me, I have been searching since yesterday and didn’t find anything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9137" RevisionGUID="9f38377d-569e-4048-8e21-f68c0f7b7e21" CreationDate="2018-04-26T17:36:23.847" UserDisplayName="user9212" Text="[ZTE Tempo Go][1] is an [Android Oreo (Go edition)][2] phone which is an 80$ android phone with acceptable specs. It has 8 GBs of built-in storage, 854x480 resolution touchscreen and 1 GB of RAM.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zteusa.com/tempogo&#xA;  [2]: https://www.android.com/versions/oreo-8-0/go-edition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9138" RevisionGUID="8e29528d-d489-4a88-aecc-4d38ed838eeb" CreationDate="2018-04-27T12:23:50.073" UserId="9084" Text="You've got a couple of problems with your spec and will need to work around them to proceed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, a USB connected speaker would need its own audio adapter onboard, or drivers that interface with the audio adapter on the host machine and a board in the speaker to convert the digital signal to an analog form internally.  Outside of headphones, there's not a lot of demand for that, so you may be searching for a product that simply isn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, the output of a speaker is limited by the amount of [power][1] which it can receive. The voltage available is only 5 volts, and in all forms the maximum current is less than a full amp (.5 for most, .9 for USB 3.x).  Depending on the USB port, that gives you under 5 Watts to work with. [At max volume, you're looking at 93-96 decibels,][2] but keep in mind that the above is *peak* for the USB port, and some of that power will go to converting the digital signal to analog.   This means your actual results will probably be closer to 75-80db, which gets you not much louder than a conversation. [Speaker size also matters][3], and this will inhibit the max volume the speaker is physically capable of putting out there. A speaker that is under 2 inches is going to output so little sound under the power a USB port can give it that your audio will require a quiet room or your head close to it to hear it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small electronics usually wire an analog speaker directly into an onboard component, and if you disassemble something like an old Tiger handheld game, you'll find that tiny sound was produced by speakers that still took up a large chunk of the case. The way headset designers make it work is through additional components you don't have available that increase the size of their solution. They also have the benefit of the speaker being so close to your ear that the overall output power is less important. USB sound cards do something similar, and you'll find that all external sound cards that produce powerful, non-headset sound use a secondary power supply plugged into the wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation would be to use a Bluetooth adapter in the USB port, and use a battery-powered rechargeable portable speaker. Those you can find all day long, resolve your audio quality and power problem, and your analog audio jack will remain open. It's been awhile since I worked with a Pi so I don't know how hard it is to get a BT stack set up on one these days, but it's a wheel that already exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://spinditty.com/instruments-gear/Speaker-Watt&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Does_Speaker_Size_Really_Matter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29656" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="a2987574-bf3c-483a-a065-4d598bb7f968" CreationDate="2018-04-28T13:09:47.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29661" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="b2692df3-b054-4bf7-a7ec-5e509d691516" CreationDate="2018-04-28T23:09:48.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9147" RevisionGUID="8a70f866-2454-447d-8717-7a6ddb4576ce" CreationDate="2018-04-29T11:05:48.470" UserId="9218" Text="Hello guys I am going to buy a prebuilded pc soon (I know I should't and it will be way more expensive but it's nothing I have control over so please don't mention that) and I can't really chose between two computers. The specs are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;//First PC// Intel Core I5-8400 Coffee Lake, Asrock Z370 PRO4, 8GB DDR4 3000MHz Adata XPG D10, EVGA Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB GDDR5, 1TB 3.5&quot; Seagate Barracuda, Cost:1,499 BGN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;//Second PC// AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (3.2 GHz 16MB), ASRock A320M-DGS, NVIDIA GTX1050Ti 4GB, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz, 1TB 7200rpm, 120 GB SSD, Cost:1,468 BGN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the specs. Please give your hones opinion and also &quot;defend&quot; your words. I will be playing on 1080p with modern games (GTA 5, Battlefield 1, Rainbow Six Siege etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29667" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9147" RevisionGUID="8a70f866-2454-447d-8717-7a6ddb4576ce" CreationDate="2018-04-29T11:05:48.470" UserId="9218" Text="Help me chose between 2 computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29668" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9147" RevisionGUID="8a70f866-2454-447d-8717-7a6ddb4576ce" CreationDate="2018-04-29T11:05:48.470" UserId="9218" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29669" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="0130790d-2d6a-4a1e-a79f-69ea658e7bde" CreationDate="2018-04-29T13:09:53.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29670" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="fb58e27f-f192-4816-b5a4-05414494ae86" CreationDate="2018-04-29T14:09:53.853" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9148" RevisionGUID="8e4403a9-a3f1-4658-b8d3-ab5d8aa9a31b" CreationDate="2018-04-29T15:59:19.373" UserId="9028" Text="For gaming, one of the most important items is the GPU. Your two choices have the same GPU so now we get into subtle items.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next item affecting overall (general) performance is memory speed! Not memory amount. 8GB is plenty but that 1st choice has memory running at 3000MHz. So pick #1. Make sure you understand how to set the BIOS settings as this is overclocked memory because if your BIOS ever needs to be reset, the default will not be 3000 MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pick #1." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9149" RevisionGUID="4b601ea2-d932-418c-969d-437ac95da4b2" CreationDate="2018-04-29T17:36:29.397" UserId="9220" Text="Right, so I am essentially looking for something like [this device][1] to toggle which device my keyboard and mouse go to. But honestly I'm looking for a solution where I can toogle it also by pressing a hotkey on my keyboard or a macro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/?tag=stackoverflow17-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29673" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9149" RevisionGUID="4b601ea2-d932-418c-969d-437ac95da4b2" CreationDate="2018-04-29T17:36:29.397" UserId="9220" Text="I'm looking for a good USB-Switch with hotkey support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29674" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9149" RevisionGUID="4b601ea2-d932-418c-969d-437ac95da4b2" CreationDate="2018-04-29T17:36:29.397" UserId="9220" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29675" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="840b0abb-b43c-4817-8402-97ff38843be4" CreationDate="2018-04-29T18:09:53.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29676" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9147" RevisionGUID="7bc7510f-1e94-493c-855b-a59690e20b05" CreationDate="2018-04-29T19:07:04.023" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29680" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="6f086934-0ac3-4210-9bf2-b7ad4597af7c" CreationDate="2018-04-29T22:09:54.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29681" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="f6d71468-8f49-4673-b5ad-b6c7c6d4236f" CreationDate="2018-04-29T23:09:53.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29688" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="c50d6db0-49f6-4d82-a3fb-69f3bb20100f" CreationDate="2018-04-30T20:12:46.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29701" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8949" RevisionGUID="1e7e2f3f-152a-4ada-a435-cfe30c54d1c2" CreationDate="2018-05-01T16:13:56.857" UserId="8000" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Just because this thread is one of the top google search results for USB-C 3.1 (and USB-C 3.1 gen 2) splitters/hubs and Thunderbolt hubs I want to provide some products that I had to search for for a long, long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As Mumblic pointed out the availability for splitters are somewhat limited.&#xD;&#xA;I looked around a bit anyways and found a couple of products (hubs!) that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Feature Thunderbolt 3 Charging for **at least** one device&#xD;&#xA; 2. Have **additional USB ports** (C and/or A, at least 3.0)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Support **at least** one 60Hz 4k, mostly 60Hz 5k or 2x 4k Monitors and&#xD;&#xA; 4. cost under 350 Bucks (urgh..)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ordered by price (low =&gt; high):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [CalDigit TS3][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Elgato Thunderbolt 2 Dock][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [OWCTB3 DK13PSG][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Belkin 3 m Thunderbolt Express Dock ][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These products are still pretty expensive and for this question searching a USB-C Splitter they may be completely off topic, but given the possibilities they offer I think they may be worth the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not tested any of this products myself but there are some reviews online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1326935-REG/caldigit_500808_ts3_thunderbolt_3_charging.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Thunderbolt-2-Kabel-Unterst%C3%BCtzung-Aluminumgeh%C3%A4use/dp/B00PFHLH2I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520975034&amp;sr=1-2-fkmr0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N51P3BB?ascsubtag=UUimUdUnU44159YYwYwnfww64tffzrw63i&amp;linkCode=g12&amp;creativeASIN=B01N51P3BB&amp;tag=androcentr0a-21&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.de/Belkin-Thunderbolt-verbindet-Anschl%C3%BCsse-kompatibel/dp/B01M2D4SNT/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520975105&amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29702" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="7c7643e6-003a-42aa-8eca-5f481b61f709" CreationDate="2018-05-01T21:12:58.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29703" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="33245190-b129-40dd-b9ae-855137790624" CreationDate="2018-05-01T22:13:18.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29704" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9054" RevisionGUID="2b2622c5-df39-4953-9451-e1794d5b170c" CreationDate="2018-05-02T01:11:38.973" UserId="6047" Comment="wrong unit" Text="Going off the fact that you claimed about 90% RAM usage during your typical use scenario, it is likely that your RAM is paging to SSD and degrading performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of your specs are fine, so it is unlikely those are going to be bottlenecks. As an additional note windows typically only uses less than 4 gb, and chrome typically doesn't use more than 1gb unless you have a lot of extensions. That would leave 3 gb for Unreal Engine, though I am surprised that Unreal is using that much RAM. Unfortunately I don't use Unreal engine a lot so I don't know what the typical memory usage is. You might want to look into your applications and see if any are using inordinate amounts of memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the recommendation, I was unable to find much information on your MOBO and the DELL support site wasn't very helpful. The [spec sheet][1] for your cpu was more useful:&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel i5-4460 memory cheat sheet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recommended 16 gb of RAM as I think that this will be more than enough to ensure that your computer isn't paging to hard drive. To put this in perspective, I have 16 gb on a laptop and only come close to filling that up running multiple Virtual Machines in parallel alongside Visual Studio + Re-sharper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This newegg query][3] contains a huge list of RAM upgrades you could purchase for your computer sorted by price. I've made a specific recommendation below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Specific recommendation: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB ##&#xD;&#xA;$125.99 at [newegg][4]&#xD;&#xA;[![G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GAR][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've chosen RAM rated at 1600 as your core specifies this is the fastest that it can support. The raised speed will allow you to load in applications slightly faster than if was rated at 1333. It also has the lowest CAS latency that I could find at 9 (specifically: 9-9-9-24). If you wanted to save money while maximizing for performance trade off, you could go for RAM with higher CAS latency, but it will increase the delay for your RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Specifically: Cas Latency(ns)/frequency(mhz) * 1000 = response time(ns)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, if you bought a 1600 speed RAM with a CAS Latency of 11, it would have a delay of 6.875 ns which would be a 22.222% increase in delay from equivalent RAM rated at CAS Latency 9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been a while since I've looked into the RAM market, but I remember G.SKILL, and Corsair being heavily praised in the self-building PC community around the time the 4k series intel processors were out. The Nemix and Team Group RAM seemed to be a little cheaper but user reviews seemed volatile. I haven't had much experience with these brands so I don't know how reliable their RAM is. I decided to recommend the cheapest &quot;enthusiast&quot; brand that I could recognize, but feel free to buy a cheaper RAM even if it isn't G.SKILL or Corsair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I7TC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100007611%20600551103%20601190327%20600000261%20600078206%20600083963%20600006079%20600006072&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231606&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5Iee.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29705" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="21f2f983-94ba-4dde-8942-9e11204fc4fb" CreationDate="2018-05-02T01:16:46.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29708" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="17ea593a-a812-4783-9321-fea622b3a062" CreationDate="2018-05-02T09:24:03.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="401b3372-10e2-48bc-9dbb-903d37fe297d" CreationDate="2018-05-02T11:25:01.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9157" RevisionGUID="0046cb65-4fa1-47f3-81b0-428aef1386cd" CreationDate="2018-05-02T19:35:28.547" UserId="3929" Text="I have a 4k monitor that has HDMI and display port. The problem is that it is HDMI 1.4 and is only able to display 4k content at 30Hz. For me that is unacceptable. Over display port, 4k is displayed at 60Hz which delivers a far better experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use this monitor as a TV and need a player that plays 4k content at 60Hz and has display port. Also a digital audio output would be a pre.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My preference is a single device with a remote control. But any alternative is welcome, including building something my own. However consider the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It has to be silent (no annoying fans)&#xD;&#xA;2. Starts up quickly and is instantly available as media player&#xD;&#xA;3. Software should be easy to use&#xD;&#xA;4. It is controllable with a remote control&#xD;&#xA;5. The price is like, say an Apple TV 4k (a bit more is acceptable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice is welcome too, except buying a new monitor ;-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29717" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9157" RevisionGUID="0046cb65-4fa1-47f3-81b0-428aef1386cd" CreationDate="2018-05-02T19:35:28.547" UserId="3929" Text="Media player with 4k and display port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29718" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9157" RevisionGUID="0046cb65-4fa1-47f3-81b0-428aef1386cd" CreationDate="2018-05-02T19:35:28.547" UserId="3929" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9158" RevisionGUID="983f0c2c-8113-4ffe-9287-9239b415d79a" CreationDate="2018-05-02T22:09:18.670" UserId="530" Text="# Switching Bluetooth &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the popularity of smartphones and tablets such as iPhone &amp; iPad, many [Bluetooth][1] keyboards are now on the market that can rapidly switch between previously-paired computers/devices. In product descriptions, look for wording such as &quot;switch&quot; and &quot;multi-device&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your MacBook certainly has Bluetooth support built-in, and your PC may. If not, add a Bluetooth dongle. There are [many such dongles][2]; I'd look for one supporting Bluetooth 4.x or later. Modern ones are no bigger than the size of the USB connector plug itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41oJDUJSiwL._AC_US436_QL65_.jpg&quot; width=&quot;120&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I cannot recommend any of these as I’ve not tried it, here is one found after some quick searching on [DuckDuckGo][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://assets.logitech.com/assets/54235/k380-multi-device-bluetooth-keyboard.png&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[K380 Multi-Device Bluetooth Keyboard](https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/multi-device-keyboard-k380?crid=27)&lt;br /&gt;Supports Windows®, Mac®, Chrome OS™, Android™, iOS®. Offers a set of `1`, `2`, and `3` buttons to switch back-and-forth between as many as three paired computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=bluetooth%20adapter%20USB&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abluetooth%20adapter%20USB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eiMan.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://duckduckgo.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9159" RevisionGUID="ca666806-c501-4886-a982-1f8cbe52880a" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:03:49.653" UserId="530" Text="# tl;dr&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use only LCD panels from manufacturers being certified as using truly flicker-free technology. &#xD;&#xA; - Ignore manufacturer claims and ignore labels on boxes, as they may be false.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of such truly flicker-free monitors at a budget price with full-HD resolution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BenQ GW2270 21.5&quot; 1080p LED Monitor,Low Blue Light Mode, True 8-bit Color Performance, VESA Mountable, D-Sub DVI-D][1]. Available today for USD $ 89.00. See [GW2270 product page][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# LCD monitors may or may not flicker &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many, if not most, LCD flat-panel monitors produce flicker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older LCD monitors used [fluorescent tubes][3]. Whether driven by magnetic or electronic [ballasts][4], all fluorescents flicker, by their nature. Avoid this entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern [LCD][5] monitors use [LED][6]s are used as backlighting. Ideally, these would perform with no flicker at all. But real-life is not always ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pulse-width modulation → flicker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, must manufacturers save a tiny amount of cost by using a technique known as [**PWM (pulse-width modulation)***][7] to [providing dimming][8]. This technique omits the circuitry that ratchets down the amount of electricity to naturally dim the LEDs. Instead, these manufacturers rapidly turns the LEDs off-and-on, off-and-on. If the LEDs spend half their time off and half the time on, then the brightness appears to be halved, for example. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the conscious mind may not notice this flashing, many of us are indeed sensitive to this flicker. This results in headache, migraine, and so on. Personally, I suspect everyone is impacted even if perceived subliminally as “stress” or “tired eyes”. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution is to avoid any display using PWM. Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous vendors who label their product as &quot;flicker-free&quot; despite using PWM. There is no regulation or industry control over the term &quot;flicker-free&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flicker-free certification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only sure solution is to use a monitor that is certified as being truly flicker-free. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## BenQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/home/benq-logo-new.png&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One vendor that does not use PWM and is certified as flicker-free is [BenQ][9]. They offer a [wide-range of monitors][10] from budget-value to business-office to photographer-color-accurate to gamer. All their monitors are flicker-free. I use a 32&quot; 4K BenQ monitor, but they offer budget-priced full-HD (1080) monitors as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/monitors/bl/bl2780t/image/tuv-rheinland-certification-bl2780t-ff-20180306-2.jpg&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are certified by a German &amp; US company, [TUV Rheinland][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270-Monitor-Performance-Mountable/dp/B019EFMK1I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525301720&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=benq%20monitor&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABenQ%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight#Backlight_dimming&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.benq.com&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.TUV.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29723" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9159" RevisionGUID="b629ead1-8f86-47cf-8aa9-c6682a01cc4c" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:15:54.123" UserId="530" Comment="added 1558 characters in body" Text="# tl;dr&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use only LCD panels from manufacturers being certified as using truly flicker-free technology. &#xD;&#xA; - Ignore manufacturer claims and ignore labels on boxes, as they may be false.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of such truly flicker-free monitors at a budget price with full-HD resolution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BenQ GW2270 21.5&quot; 1080p LED Monitor,Low Blue Light Mode, True 8-bit Color Performance, VESA Mountable, D-Sub DVI-D][1]. Available today for USD $ 89.00. See [GW2270 product page][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# LCD monitors may or may not flicker &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many, if not most, LCD flat-panel monitors produce flicker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older LCD monitors used [fluorescent tubes][3]. Whether driven by magnetic or electronic [ballasts][4], all fluorescents flicker, by their nature. Avoid this entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern [LCD][5] monitors use [LED][6]s are used as backlighting. Ideally, these would perform with no flicker at all. But real-life is not always ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pulse-width modulation → flicker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, must manufacturers save a tiny amount of cost by using a technique known as [**PWM (pulse-width modulation)***][7] to [providing dimming][8]. This technique omits the circuitry that ratchets down the amount of electricity to naturally dim the LEDs. Instead, these manufacturers rapidly turns the LEDs off-and-on, off-and-on. If the LEDs spend half their time off and half the time on, then the brightness appears to be halved, for example. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the conscious mind may not notice this flashing, many of us are indeed sensitive to this flicker. This results in headache, migraine, and so on. Personally, I suspect everyone is impacted even if perceived subliminally as “stress” or “tired eyes”. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution is to avoid any display using PWM. Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous vendors who label their product as &quot;flicker-free&quot; despite using PWM. There is no regulation or industry control over the term &quot;flicker-free&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flicker-free certification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only sure solution is to use a monitor that is certified as being truly flicker-free. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## BenQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/home/benq-logo-new.png&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One vendor that does not use PWM and is certified as flicker-free is [BenQ][9]. They offer a [wide-range of monitors][10] from budget-value to business-office to photographer-color-accurate to gamer. All their monitors are flicker-free. I use a 32&quot; 4K BenQ monitor, but they offer budget-priced full-HD (1080) monitors as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/monitors/bl/bl2780t/image/tuv-rheinland-certification-bl2780t-ff-20180306-2.jpg&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are certified by a German &amp; US company, [TUV Rheinland][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Eye-comfort = low-blue-light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Eye-comfort&quot; labeling is a separate issue from flicker. The term usually refers to the monitor offering a mode where blue-light is suppressed. Certain wavelengths of blue light are thought to mess with our circadian sleep cycle, and therefore avoided in the evening. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, Apple offers this mode [on Mac computers][12] and [on iOS devices][13], calling the feature *Night Shift*. This feature works only on the built-in screens. So if you want the same effect on your external monitor, you must buy a monitor with this capability built-in. You will need to manually enable/disable the low-blue-light mode on the external monetary by pressing its physical control buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: Colors are altered. Since shades of blue are suppressed, of course the colors are no longer true. Within a very few minutes, your eyes/brain adjust. So generally you will be unaware of the color changes if just casually browsing the web or typing email. But you cannot do high-quality photo-editing or video-editing with this mode enabled if you need accurate color portrayal. And you should not shopping for any products with just the right shade of some color while this low-blue-light mode is active.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, this **low-blue-light feature has *nothing* to do with flicker**. Two separate, orthogonal issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick check shows that most all the recent models of BenQ monitors recommended above offer this mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270-Monitor-Performance-Mountable/dp/B019EFMK1I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525301720&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=benq%20monitor&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABenQ%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight#Backlight_dimming&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.benq.com&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.TUV.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207513&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29724" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9159" RevisionGUID="471b71fe-2739-4b79-bd21-7c5dac5633ca" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:21:26.880" UserId="530" Comment="added 1558 characters in body" Text="# tl;dr&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use only LCD panels from manufacturers being certified as using truly flicker-free technology. &#xD;&#xA; - Ignore manufacturer claims and ignore labels on boxes, as they may be false.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of such truly flicker-free monitors at a budget price with full-HD resolution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [BenQ GW2270 21.5&quot; 1080p LED Monitor,Low Blue Light Mode, True 8-bit Color Performance, VESA Mountable, D-Sub DVI-D][1]. Available today for USD $ 89.00. See [GW2270 product page][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# LCD monitors may or may not flicker &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many, if not most, LCD flat-panel monitors produce flicker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older LCD monitors used [fluorescent tubes][3]. Whether driven by magnetic or electronic [ballasts][4], all fluorescents flicker, by their nature. Avoid this entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern [LCD][5] monitors use [LED][6]s are used as backlighting. Ideally, these would perform with no flicker at all. But real-life is not always ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pulse-width modulation → flicker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, must manufacturers save a tiny amount of cost by using a technique known as [**PWM (pulse-width modulation)***][7] to [providing dimming][8]. This technique omits the circuitry that ratchets down the amount of electricity to naturally dim the LEDs. Instead, these manufacturers rapidly turns the LEDs off-and-on, off-and-on. If the LEDs spend half their time off and half the time on, then the brightness appears to be halved, for example. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the conscious mind may not notice this flashing, many of us are indeed sensitive to this flicker. This results in headache, migraine, and so on. Personally, I suspect everyone is impacted even if perceived subliminally as “stress” or “tired eyes”. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution is to avoid any display using PWM. Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous vendors who label their product as &quot;flicker-free&quot; despite using PWM. There is no regulation or industry control over the term &quot;flicker-free&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flicker-free certification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only sure solution is to use a monitor that is certified as being truly flicker-free. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## BenQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/home/benq-logo-new.png&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One vendor that does not use PWM and is certified as flicker-free is [BenQ][9]. They offer a [wide-range of monitors][10] from budget-value to business-office to photographer-color-accurate to gamer. All their monitors are flicker-free. I use a 32&quot; 4K BenQ monitor, but they offer budget-priced full-HD (1080) monitors as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/monitors/bl/bl2780t/image/tuv-rheinland-certification-bl2780t-ff-20180306-2.jpg&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are certified by a German &amp; US company, [TUV Rheinland][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Eye-comfort = low-blue-light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Eye-comfort&quot; usually refers to the monitor offering a mode where blue-light is suppressed. Certain wavelengths of blue light are thought to mess with our circadian sleep cycle, and therefore avoided in the evening. This blue-light issue is unrelated to flicker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, Apple offers this mode [on Mac computers][12] and [on iOS devices][13], calling the feature *Night Shift*. This feature works only on the built-in screens. So if you want the same effect on your external monitor, you must buy a monitor with this capability built-in. You will need to manually enable/disable the low-blue-light mode on the external monetary by pressing its physical control buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: Colors are altered. Since shades of blue are suppressed, of course the colors are no longer true. Within a very few minutes, your eyes/brain adjust. So generally you will be unaware of the color changes if just casually browsing the web or typing email. But you cannot do high-quality photo-editing or video-editing with this mode enabled if you need accurate color portrayal. And you should not shopping for any products with just the right shade of some color while this low-blue-light mode is active.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, this **low-blue-light feature has *nothing* to do with flicker**. Two separate, orthogonal issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick check shows that most all the recent models of BenQ monitors recommended above offer this mode. They provide [this page](http://orwww.benq.com/solution/benq-eye-care-monitor/lite) and [this white paper](http://benqimage.blob.core.windows.net/benq-img/BenQ_Eye-care_Monitor_BI_Campaign_white_paper-s.pdf) explaining these issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same TUV company provides certification for low-blue-light, just as they do for flicker-free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270-Monitor-Performance-Mountable/dp/B019EFMK1I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525301720&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=benq%20monitor&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABenQ%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight#Backlight_dimming&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.benq.com&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: http://www.TUV.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207513&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29725" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9159" RevisionGUID="daa06de3-0f83-4a02-808b-88418078c07b" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:34:51.693" UserId="530" Comment="added 1558 characters in body" Text="# tl;dr&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use only LCD panels from manufacturers being certified as using truly flicker-free technology. &#xD;&#xA; - Ignore manufacturer claims and ignore labels on boxes, as they may be false.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Examples of such truly flicker-free monitors at a budget price with full-HD resolution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [*BenQ GW2270HM 22-Inch 1080 LED Monitor, 5ms, 8-bit Display, HDMI*](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270hm.html). &lt;br /&gt;Available today [for USD $ 109.00][1]. &#xD;&#xA; - [*BenQ GW2270 21.5&quot; 1080p LED Monitor,Low Blue Light Mode, True 8-bit Color Performance, VESA Mountable, D-Sub DVI-D*][3]. Available today [for USD $ 89.00][2]. While this monitor uses a DVI input rather than the HDMI you requested, you can use a HDMI-DVI cable such as [this USD $ 5.99 one][4] (HDMI is a superset of DVI). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# LCD monitors may or may not flicker &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many, if not most, LCD flat-panel monitors produce flicker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older LCD monitors used [fluorescent tubes][5]. Whether driven by magnetic or electronic [ballasts][6], all fluorescents flicker, by their nature. Avoid this entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern [LCD][7] monitors use [LED][8]s are used as backlighting. Ideally, these would perform with no flicker at all. But real-life is not always ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pulse-width modulation → flicker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, must manufacturers save a tiny amount of cost by using a technique known as [**PWM (pulse-width modulation)***][9] to [providing dimming][10]. This technique omits the circuitry that ratchets down the amount of electricity to naturally dim the LEDs. Instead, these manufacturers rapidly turns the LEDs off-and-on, off-and-on. If the LEDs spend half their time off and half the time on, then the brightness appears to be halved, for example. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the conscious mind may not notice this flashing, many of us are indeed sensitive to this flicker. This results in headache, migraine, and so on. Personally, I suspect everyone is impacted even if perceived subliminally as “stress” or “tired eyes”. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution is to avoid any display using PWM. Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous vendors who label their product as &quot;flicker-free&quot; despite using PWM. There is no regulation or industry control over the term &quot;flicker-free&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flicker-free certification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only sure solution is to use a monitor that is certified as being truly flicker-free. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## BenQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/home/benq-logo-new.png&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One vendor that does not use PWM and is certified as flicker-free is [BenQ][11]. They offer a [wide-range of monitors][12] from budget-value to business-office to photographer-color-accurate to gamer. All their monitors are flicker-free. I use a 32&quot; 4K BenQ monitor, but they offer budget-priced full-HD (1080) monitors as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/monitors/bl/bl2780t/image/tuv-rheinland-certification-bl2780t-ff-20180306-2.jpg&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are certified by a German &amp; US company, [TUV Rheinland][13].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Eye-comfort = low-blue-light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Eye-comfort&quot; usually refers to the monitor offering a mode where blue-light is suppressed. Certain wavelengths of blue light are thought to mess with our circadian sleep cycle, and therefore avoided in the evening. This blue-light issue is unrelated to flicker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, Apple offers this mode [on Mac computers][14] and [on iOS devices][15], calling the feature *Night Shift*. This feature works only on the built-in screens. So if you want the same effect on your external monitor, you must buy a monitor with this capability built-in. You will need to manually enable/disable the low-blue-light mode on the external monetary by pressing its physical control buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: Colors are altered. Since shades of blue are suppressed, of course the colors are no longer true. Within a very few minutes, your eyes/brain adjust. So generally you will be unaware of the color changes if just casually browsing the web or typing email. But you cannot do high-quality photo-editing or video-editing with this mode enabled if you need accurate color portrayal. And you should not shopping for any products with just the right shade of some color while this low-blue-light mode is active.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, this **low-blue-light feature has *nothing* to do with flicker**. Two separate, orthogonal issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick check shows that most all the recent models of BenQ monitors recommended above offer this mode. They provide [this page](http://orwww.benq.com/solution/benq-eye-care-monitor/lite) and [this white paper](http://benqimage.blob.core.windows.net/benq-img/BenQ_Eye-care_Monitor_BI_Campaign_white_paper-s.pdf) explaining these issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same TUV company provides certification for low-blue-light, just as they do for flicker-free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270HM-22-Inch-Monitor-Display/dp/B00KYCSRQI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525303854&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=BenQ%20monitor%20HDMI&amp;dpID=41hKcK8IKUL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270-Monitor-Performance-Mountable/dp/B019EFMK1I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525301720&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=benq%20monitor&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABenQ%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UL8U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525303478&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=amazon%20basics%20hdmi%20DVI&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight#Backlight_dimming&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.benq.com&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.TUV.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207513&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9159" RevisionGUID="41ab52b5-56fe-4eea-9468-4dc44e6b2587" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:45:08.697" UserId="530" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="# tl;dr&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Use only LCD panels from manufacturers being certified as using truly flicker-free technology. &#xD;&#xA; - Ignore manufacturer claims and ignore labels on boxes, as they may be false.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Examples of such truly flicker-free monitors at a budget price with full-HD resolution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [*BenQ GW2270HM 22-Inch 1080 LED Monitor, 5ms, 8-bit Display, HDMI*](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270hm.html). &lt;br /&gt;Available today [for USD $ 109.00][1]. &#xD;&#xA; - [*BenQ GW2270 21.5&quot; 1080p LED Monitor,Low Blue Light Mode, True 8-bit Color Performance, VESA Mountable, D-Sub DVI-D*][3]. Available today [for USD $ 89.00][2]. While this monitor uses a DVI input rather than the HDMI you requested, you can use a HDMI-DVI cable such as [this USD $ 5.99 one][4] (HDMI is a superset of DVI). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# LCD monitors may or may not flicker &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many, if not most, LCD flat-panel monitors produce flicker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Older LCD monitors used [fluorescent tubes][5]. Whether driven by magnetic or electronic [ballasts][6], all fluorescents flicker, by their nature. Avoid this entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern [LCD][7] monitors use [LED][8]s are used as backlighting. Ideally, these would perform with no flicker at all. But real-life is not always ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pulse-width modulation → flicker&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, must manufacturers save a tiny amount of cost by using a technique known as [***PWM (pulse-width modulation)***][9] to [providing dimming][10]. This technique omits the circuitry that ratchets down the amount of electricity to naturally dim the LEDs. Instead, these manufacturers rapidly turn the LEDs off-and-on, off-and-on, off-and-on. If the LEDs spend half their time off and half the time on, then the brightness appears to be halved, for example. Unfortunately, the user is now staring into what is effectively a disco-like strobe light (not good).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the conscious mind may not notice this flashing, many of us are indeed sensitive to this flicker. This results in headache, migraine, and so on. Personally, I suspect *everyone* is impacted even if perceived subliminally as “stress” or “tired eyes” without recognizing the cause. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solution is to avoid any display using PWM. Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous vendors who label their product as &quot;flicker-free&quot; despite using PWM. There is no regulation or industry control over the term &quot;flicker-free&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flicker-free certification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only sure solution is to use a monitor that is certified as being truly flicker-free. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## BenQ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/home/benq-logo-new.png&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One vendor that does not use PWM and is certified as flicker-free is [BenQ][11]. They offer a [wide-range of monitors][12] from budget-value to business-office to photographer-color-accurate to gamer. All their monitors are flicker-free. I use a 32&quot; 4K BenQ monitor, but they offer budget-priced full-HD (1080) monitors as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.benq.com/content/dam/b2c/en/monitors/bl/bl2780t/image/tuv-rheinland-certification-bl2780t-ff-20180306-2.jpg&quot; /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are certified by a German &amp; US company, [TUV Rheinland][13].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Eye-comfort = low-blue-light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Eye-comfort&quot; usually refers to the monitor offering a mode where blue-light is suppressed. Certain wavelengths of blue light are thought to mess with our circadian sleep cycle, and therefore avoided in the evening. This blue-light issue is unrelated to flicker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, Apple offers this mode [on Mac computers][14] and [on iOS devices][15], calling the feature *Night Shift*. This feature works only on the built-in screens. So if you want the same effect on your external monitor, you must buy a monitor with this capability built-in. You will need to manually enable/disable the low-blue-light mode on the external monetary by pressing its physical control buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware: Colors are altered. Since shades of blue are suppressed, of course the colors are no longer true. Within a very few minutes, your eyes/brain adjust. So generally you will be unaware of the color changes if just casually browsing the web or typing email. But you cannot do high-quality photo-editing or video-editing with this mode enabled if you need accurate color portrayal. And you should not shopping for any products with just the right shade of some color while this low-blue-light mode is active.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, this **low-blue-light feature has *nothing* to do with flicker**. Two separate, orthogonal issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick check shows that most all the recent models of BenQ monitors recommended above offer this mode. They provide [this page](http://orwww.benq.com/solution/benq-eye-care-monitor/lite) and [this white paper](http://benqimage.blob.core.windows.net/benq-img/BenQ_Eye-care_Monitor_BI_Campaign_white_paper-s.pdf) explaining these issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same TUV company provides certification for low-blue-light, just as they do for flicker-free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270HM-22-Inch-Monitor-Display/dp/B00KYCSRQI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525303854&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=BenQ%20monitor%20HDMI&amp;dpID=41hKcK8IKUL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2270-Monitor-Performance-Mountable/dp/B019EFMK1I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525301720&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=benq%20monitor&amp;refinements=p_89%3ABenQ%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6570747011&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/stylish/gw2270.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UL8U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525303478&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=amazon%20basics%20hdmi%20DVI&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight#Backlight_dimming&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.benq.com&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: http://www.TUV.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207513&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29733" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="7100fbee-e4a6-4c90-90a7-585f838ebba9" CreationDate="2018-05-03T06:32:14.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29734" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9161" RevisionGUID="1d9d845e-b004-431d-aef0-5b3e8e94cfd2" CreationDate="2018-05-03T07:28:19.247" UserId="9240" Text="I have a two options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. two [`dell P2417H`](http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-p2417h-monitor/pd) 23'&#xD;&#xA;2. one [`LG 32MA68HY-P`](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IA9FXAO/?tag=stackoverflow17-20) 32' (window split available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm developing web(front and back) and usually using vim and sublime text.&#xD;&#xA;I'll connect to my 2017 13' MBP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one is better? Recently, I've never used monitor. So I don't imagine which one is better to me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29735" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9161" RevisionGUID="1d9d845e-b004-431d-aef0-5b3e8e94cfd2" CreationDate="2018-05-03T07:28:19.247" UserId="9240" Text="Which monitor would be better to programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29736" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9161" RevisionGUID="1d9d845e-b004-431d-aef0-5b3e8e94cfd2" CreationDate="2018-05-03T07:28:19.247" UserId="9240" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="c3656be5-c363-480d-819e-cdf73a03b29d" CreationDate="2018-05-03T09:32:17.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9163" RevisionGUID="5641a002-47a1-4e36-8987-4279f26cd977" CreationDate="2018-05-03T17:37:36.967" UserId="4933" Text="I have a desktop running an i3-2100 (LGA 1155 socket). The desktop is close to a decade old at this point and still running the stock Intel fan ([this one](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XJNC0O/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AWUJ1PRCOF6FM)), which is also incidentally the only one in my mid tower apart from the one on the PSU (a Corsair VS550), so I'm looking for an aftermarket replacement that is both quieter and more effective at cooling. I'm also on a low income, so I really need it to be cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I've found [this one](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IZH493Y/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bT8KSl_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=EZJ7WWTBEJQERJDQA6FN&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=cdfe7b69-8f39-5168-9e52-1c6fe2791197&amp;pf_rd_i=430499031), and will probably end up going with it unless someone here informs me that it will actually perform worse than stock or there's a much better option for very close to the same price point (talking a difference of around £5)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29743" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9163" RevisionGUID="5641a002-47a1-4e36-8987-4279f26cd977" CreationDate="2018-05-03T17:37:36.967" UserId="4933" Text="Budget fan/heatsink to replace stock Intel one" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29744" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9163" RevisionGUID="5641a002-47a1-4e36-8987-4279f26cd977" CreationDate="2018-05-03T17:37:36.967" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29745" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9163" RevisionGUID="8fc33ded-c0ec-4757-81ba-283e2c9ee868" CreationDate="2018-05-03T17:45:03.100" UserId="4933" Comment="edited title" Text="Budget cooler to replace stock Intel one" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9164" RevisionGUID="1311ec7b-86f0-481e-bdd5-78de91d82dd9" CreationDate="2018-05-03T19:24:10.437" UserId="4043" Text="Both of these monitors are 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz monitors. The primary difference is their physical size. The benefit of the larger monitor is that (assuming you would have each at the same distance from your eyes) you will be able to lower the display scale on the larger screen and potentially fit more in view. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: there will be substantial loss in visual fidelity. The smaller monitor will give you about 50% greater [pixel density][1] than the 32&quot; screen. The flipside is that obviously the larger monitor will be more comfortable to look at from a further distance, and for tasks that require less fine detail (such as watching non-bluray quality movies) the larger monitor will just be more pleasing to look at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pixel density calculator][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must determine whether the increased size is a better value for you than the bump in pixel density.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pixel_density&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/pixels-per-inch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9165" RevisionGUID="5a720aa7-418a-42b2-a28c-5a437da1bc0a" CreationDate="2018-05-03T20:10:25.553" UserId="9028" Text="I do understand wanting quiet. I am dubious about your choice. It says 25 dB at its lowest setting. That means if you put any load on your CPU, it will speed up and be louder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This one][1] is $20 and its high noise level is 21 dB. Hope that is within your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835856101" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29748" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="2b5cf325-45a8-4f06-8b7b-6748bde13868" CreationDate="2018-05-03T20:32:39.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29751" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="6963cfc3-91e0-4554-ab1a-939ab01c0abe" CreationDate="2018-05-04T01:33:36.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29752" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="c22cb78a-c936-4dab-89f3-8cbee8a1c636" CreationDate="2018-05-04T08:35:58.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9166" RevisionGUID="fe785ed6-49fd-4dcb-bdd6-685809df41f9" CreationDate="2018-05-04T12:48:54.277" UserId="4896" Text="[Arctic Cool Freezer Pro 7 r2][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my go-to budget cooler. Much quieter and a better cooler than stock HSFs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also buy some decent-but-cheap thermal paste, such as [Arctic Silver 5][2] and [Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combined, these should set you back 25-30 GBP/USD/Euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also perhaps look at some fan-control s/w such as [Speedfan][4] - even when you can't improve temps, you can change how your fan responds to them. Some rigs crank up to 100% fan speed too early.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29756" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="67f83447-1543-4be7-be42-c57d13492091" CreationDate="2018-05-04T18:35:58.810" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29757" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="087099e9-cd22-45b9-a842-3354ca40547c" CreationDate="2018-05-04T19:36:13.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9168" RevisionGUID="bbc32539-a416-4f78-a5ed-7c1d4f872c82" CreationDate="2018-05-05T06:29:40.230" UserId="9248" Text="I'm looking to update my current gaming and work laptop to something featuring the latest CPUs and GPUs. Unfortunately, 120 Hz FHD screens seem to be more popular than 4K this year. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a good gaming laptop that has a six-core 8th-gen Intel CPU, a GTX 1080 (or *maaaaybe* 1070), and a 4K screen or thereabouts? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred but not necessary:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Lots of storage space.&#xD;&#xA;- M.2 raid support to transfer current hard drives. &#xD;&#xA;- 64+ GB RAM support. &#xD;&#xA;- 15.6 inches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29759" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9168" RevisionGUID="bbc32539-a416-4f78-a5ed-7c1d4f872c82" CreationDate="2018-05-05T06:29:40.230" UserId="9248" Text="4K gaming laptops with up-to-date hardware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29760" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9168" RevisionGUID="bbc32539-a416-4f78-a5ed-7c1d4f872c82" CreationDate="2018-05-05T06:29:40.230" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29761" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="e4325bfc-686a-417f-891e-bf977f887db8" CreationDate="2018-05-05T10:37:00.847" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9169" RevisionGUID="98debc52-7714-472b-a450-4e5e795b72b5" CreationDate="2018-05-05T14:07:14.433" UserId="9044" Text="I'm looking for a new laptop mainly for programming work. I don't have much knowledge about hardware but what is most important to me is just for the laptop to be fast while starting up and running applications, so I decided some of my requirements would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least i5 proccessor&#xD;&#xA;- 8gb ram&#xD;&#xA;- at least full hd resolution (helpful when designing websites)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What doesn't have much importance to me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- whether it has touchscreen or not&#xD;&#xA;- how much it can work without battery&#xD;&#xA;- camera / audio quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is around 1000$ - $1200 although I know the prices might vary around the world. I bumped onto a Dell Inspirion 15 5570-2890 which has following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- processor : Intel Core i7-8550U&#xD;&#xA;- disk : ssd 256GB&#xD;&#xA;- graphics card : AMD Radeon 530&#xD;&#xA;- RAM : 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I very much like that it has i7 processor, but as I've been looking around other shops and online I saw most of laptops in similar price range have i5 processors and I'm wondering if there is some catch to this laptop or would it be a good deal? Also I'm wondering if there are some options similar to this Dell that you could recommend?  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29763" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9169" RevisionGUID="98debc52-7714-472b-a450-4e5e795b72b5" CreationDate="2018-05-05T14:07:14.433" UserId="9044" Text="Opinions/alternatives on dell inspiron 15 5570-2890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29764" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9169" RevisionGUID="98debc52-7714-472b-a450-4e5e795b72b5" CreationDate="2018-05-05T14:07:14.433" UserId="9044" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29769" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="7081" RevisionGUID="fecb0ac0-438f-4a2a-b2f3-a568df3f9b5c" CreationDate="2018-05-05T20:30:17.347" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29770" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="3954d613-81ba-4c03-a09f-57ab4b4fb68f" CreationDate="2018-05-05T20:41:42.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29774" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="eb80bcca-384d-4c45-9331-564c7c8b4d92" CreationDate="2018-05-05T23:42:35.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29775" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="d50b06cf-4ddf-44bf-8c0a-b191835653ef" CreationDate="2018-05-06T00:42:35.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29776" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="e6d5fe45-57f0-4628-9c7c-db6ae71ff09b" CreationDate="2018-05-06T02:42:36.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="535ae43f-9e96-41af-adb4-5bf3db9a5c0d" CreationDate="2018-05-06T09:09:06.373" UserId="5949" Text="I am looking for an E-ink tablet that can be used well as a **substitute for physical college textbooks**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It should have a pdf-reader that is versatile in the sense that it has many features that are useful for reading textbooks: &#xD;&#xA; * easily put bookmarks on pages; (preferably multiple types of bookmarks) &#xD;&#xA; * easily go to chapters based on contents section; &#xD;&#xA; * easily switch back and forth bookmarked pages, or between chapters; (preferably easily switch between pdfs)&#xD;&#xA; * draw notes in existing pdf files with a pen.&#xD;&#xA; * easily go through such notes or bookmarks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.  Easily transfer files to the tablet via wifi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.  Bonues: taking notes in a note-taking app. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4.  doesn't necessarily have to do anything else (e.g. no youtube, email, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One such tablet that comes to mind is &quot;reMarkable&quot;. However, from what I've seen online, it is very limited when it comes to bookmarks, content section, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What are the best e-ink tablets that satisfy these requirements, and can be used as a good substitute for college textbooks?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="535ae43f-9e96-41af-adb4-5bf3db9a5c0d" CreationDate="2018-05-06T09:09:06.373" UserId="5949" Text="E-ink tablet as substitute for textbooks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="535ae43f-9e96-41af-adb4-5bf3db9a5c0d" CreationDate="2018-05-06T09:09:06.373" UserId="5949" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29780" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="bded21a4-8eb8-45d3-b0cb-6acb4a55bfa5" CreationDate="2018-05-06T09:42:40.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29785" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="6d15d74e-5422-4026-b0ea-6b7172a00f5a" CreationDate="2018-05-06T20:42:46.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29799" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="54a7abf0-04b4-47b2-8d29-5eda022a0154" CreationDate="2018-05-07T17:46:43.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9177" RevisionGUID="ed6f083e-2691-4f2a-8e94-13d20d3a1f97" CreationDate="2018-05-07T17:51:59.197" UserId="4727" Text="I am planning to buy a laptop. I am not in a huge rush. So I can perfectly wait another 3/4 months with no issues. I am looking for a laptop to work mainly. I will mostly remote from it to my office desktop so a very good screen and keyboard are important so that I can perform multiple tasks simultaneously while remoted. Stuff that I care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Processing power - I run heavily computational stuff (paralellized codes). I mainly use my desktop for those, but would always be nice to have the option of running some lighter stuff on the laptop (not very important)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Graphics card - I played a lot of games more than 10 years ago. I would like to start playing again. With cloud gaming coming soon mainstream, maybe it is not that important to have a good graphics card. I would mostly play tomb raider, csgo, pubg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Durability/Longevity - This is important for me. I would like the laptop to last under normal usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Portability - I travel once every other week and need my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With so many tradeoffs not sure what should I buy. I compiled a list below with 5 laptops I narrowed down. The last 3 lines are my personal opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8dBj.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29801" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9177" RevisionGUID="ed6f083e-2691-4f2a-8e94-13d20d3a1f97" CreationDate="2018-05-07T17:51:59.197" UserId="4727" Text="Suggest a laptop for productivity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29802" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9177" RevisionGUID="ed6f083e-2691-4f2a-8e94-13d20d3a1f97" CreationDate="2018-05-07T17:51:59.197" UserId="4727" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29803" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="4a872275-75da-4b72-bea1-88da37625e7d" CreationDate="2018-05-07T22:51:07.123" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9166" RevisionGUID="98f6ba35-8054-405f-bdb0-74b8211733b2" CreationDate="2018-05-08T10:53:07.837" UserId="4896" Comment="Freezer Pro 11 LP added" Text="[Arctic Cool Freezer Pro 7 r2][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my go-to budget cooler. Much quieter and a better cooler than stock HSFs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also buy some decent-but-cheap thermal paste, such as [Arctic Silver 5][2] and [Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combined, these should set you back 25-30 GBP/USD/Euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also perhaps look at some fan-control s/w such as [Speedfan][4] - even when you can't improve temps, you can change how your fan responds to them. Some rigs crank up to 100% fan speed too early.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The [Freezer Pro 11 LP][5] is a low profile alternative. With LP coolers, compromises are made (i.e smaller and directed into case, rather than to rear), so it will be harder for it to keep the same CPU cool in comparison. However, this one is still cheap and still quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/freezer-11-lp.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29806" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9169" RevisionGUID="02508c93-5a99-4331-996d-4dfaee4bdaf5" CreationDate="2018-05-08T11:55:47.080" UserId="9044" Comment="68" />
  <row Id="29807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9178" RevisionGUID="e141de7c-9a61-4e31-b739-58bf3ded9bca" CreationDate="2018-05-08T14:14:53.010" UserId="9255" Text="So I've been googling for a while but I can't seem to find an mp3 player device that satisfies my requirements. I need something like an iPod Touch but not an iPod touch (not a big fan of Apple). My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Can play mp3 for a long time without charge (25 hrs +).&#xD;&#xA;2. Can display mp3 files with a variety of tags (artist, composers, genres, playlists, etc..).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Has an internal memory of at least 128GB OR can support a microSD card up to at least 128GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Must have bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. As for the price I would like if it could be less than 350 euros but if your find something more expensive feel free to recommend it as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't care about: Display quality, camera quality, anything that concerns the video basically. I'm looking for a device primarily for mp3, but it needs to have a display and a GUI though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, any ideas?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29808" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9178" RevisionGUID="e141de7c-9a61-4e31-b739-58bf3ded9bca" CreationDate="2018-05-08T14:14:53.010" UserId="9255" Text="Looking for an mp3/mp4 player" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29809" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9178" RevisionGUID="e141de7c-9a61-4e31-b739-58bf3ded9bca" CreationDate="2018-05-08T14:14:53.010" UserId="9255" Text="&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29810" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="b7bd880f-49ad-4171-8282-3bef2624b776" CreationDate="2018-05-08T14:52:45.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9179" RevisionGUID="65d1be3b-5091-4f32-94f8-047d355ee192" CreationDate="2018-05-08T20:28:55.817" UserId="7864" Text="I have seen many articles online about using a phone or computer to act as a Bluetooth-WiFi(internet) bridge, where you can share the internet connection with other devices over Bluetooth. But I have not seen any generic stand alone devices that would allow this same function. I have seen ones for specific IoT devices that allow Bluetooth light bulbs and such to be accessed over WiFi but not a generic one. Has anyone seen such a device?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9179" RevisionGUID="65d1be3b-5091-4f32-94f8-047d355ee192" CreationDate="2018-05-08T20:28:55.817" UserId="7864" Text="Bluetooth Wifi Bridge" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9179" RevisionGUID="65d1be3b-5091-4f32-94f8-047d355ee192" CreationDate="2018-05-08T20:28:55.817" UserId="7864" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9182" RevisionGUID="ba2b8ce6-e96d-4c95-ae18-66ba5a9ac74b" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:05:21.730" UserId="9084" Text="Don't worry about cloud computing when it comes to graphics adapters; at this time, there's no realistic way to process high-definition graphics and then pitch them to a screen at 60 frames per second over distributed computing vs. a card on a PCI-E bus.  Going off of your diagram:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Macbook Pro:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue you'll have here is largely tied to your code.  The machine will swallow some exceptions and bury them in a log that only an Apple &quot;Genius Bar&quot; can access.  You also get less hardware in the machine for more money, and have the usual compatibility issues with having Mac OS instead of Windows.  The hardware is actually still just the same stuff you'd see in a Windows PC, but your service is handled through Apple.  The only exception is the Retina display, as these are exceptionally clear and color-balanced out of the box. You may have noticed in the diagram that competitors now offer similar hardware here, as well, which closes this gap. 4GB of texture memory on the video card is just enough to push this resolution if you decide to game or do any 3D design work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Lenovo X1:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having first-hand experience with the display on this one, I can tell you that it's one of the best. It's not as high-res as two of the other offerings, but it's matched well with the maximum capabilities of the graphics adapter. Unfortunately, said adapter in this case is the on-die Intel adapter that comes part-in-parcel with an Intel i7-8550U.  The U stands for &quot;underpower&quot; in Intel SKUs; that is to say, the processor is underclocked and under-spec in order to provide significantly longer battery life.   The 8th-gen U-series are the first to offer quad core options, but any demanding computing is likely to be inhibited by the product. It's very light, though, so if you have access to a desktop at home with better specs, this makes a great portable work machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Gigabyte Aero 15x:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabyte is a big name in motherboard manufacturing, similar to Asus but without the weird stigma that some business-types add to the &quot;Republic of Gamers&quot; sticker and price premium added to the Asus laptop shells.  A gaming laptop is just another term for &quot;most powerful laptop available&quot; and in no way suggests the machine isn't ideal in a work environment; computer design progression is pretty linear when it comes to that sort of thing.  The unit is larger and heavier, but with good reason; you get the newest, proper &quot;H&quot; series of i7 processor in it, with the very powerful 1070GTX from nVidia with all of its lovely texture memory.  This unit is effectively a portable desktop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're limited to 1080p resolution on the monitor.  On the surface, that sounds, bad, but in a laptop, it's really not.  Modern LED screens at high resolution use &quot;scaling&quot; to make icons and text larger.  If you leave them at their native sizes, they become too small to read properly on an Ultra-High-Definition display when the display is only about 14-15&quot; diagonally across (which is how screens are measured).  If you're not doing graphic design or gaming at 4k+ resolution, anything more than 1080p in a laptop is usually a waste. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other downside I can see here is that with all that power, battery life will be shortened.  This is why you always see gaming laptops plugged in; you only get 2-3 hours out of the battery if you're doing something that really takes advantage of the machine's sheer processing capability.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall, this would be my pick given the choices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell XPS 15:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine is a good compromise, and has the highest-resolution display of the lot.  You'd definitely want to scale your desktop a little in order to see clearly for daily use, but you get some nice hardware here for the price.  The only real loss here vs. the Gigabyte is that the video card is less powerful and has half the texture memory, which can make for a slow gaming experience on newer games (especially if they support resolutions higher than 1080p).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason it's easier on the wallet is because the processor inside is a generation behind the one in the Gigabyte, but it's still a very good processor by today's standards and I strongly doubt you'd see a difference.  I'm not a huge fan of the Dell brand, but I think you'd be pleased with this unit as well. You will likely get longer battery life out of the Dell due to the lower power consumption of the graphics card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would go with the Gigabyte if price isn't an issue and you can reach an outlet when you're doing anything particularly intense.   Barring that, I'd recommend the Dell.   If battery life is the most important criteria, Lenovo's will have the best.   I wouldn't bother with the Apple. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="2a4148d2-cf3d-4e81-bff9-4dff9ce34903" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:50:15.340" UserId="9260" Text="I'm looking for a receipt scanner which can scan very long receipts (up to 30 feet long) and produce a single image or PDF. Ideally it would have Optical Character Recognition (OCR) and produce a PDF with the text information (for example, you would be able to search for words when you open the PDF in something like Adobe Acrobat, or you could extract the text content into a .txt file using separate software). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I don't want it for the purpose of using with software like Neat, I'd rather not pay extra money for included software like that, if possible. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29827" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="2a4148d2-cf3d-4e81-bff9-4dff9ce34903" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:50:15.340" UserId="9260" Text="Looking for a receipt scanner than can continuously scan a receipt of any length" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29828" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="2a4148d2-cf3d-4e81-bff9-4dff9ce34903" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:50:15.340" UserId="9260" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9184" RevisionGUID="8fda261c-1fd1-4de2-b5d2-738bdf53a395" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:50:20.283" UserId="9084" Text="Bluetooth is a proprietary technology which is managed by the [Bluetooth SIG][1].  Unlike &quot;Wireless A/B/C/N/AC&quot;, which is the networking technology standardized by IEEE, Bluetooth is tightly managed by this group and specific patents are required when making something Bluetooth compatible.  This means that the &quot;stack&quot;, which manages to what and how a device can connect to other BT devices, is often proprietary to the device itself.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can experiment with this by purchasing a Chinese-local Bluetooth headset designed for phones and trying to pair it with a Dell laptop that has integrated Bluetooth.  Chances are, your device won't pair, and you'll have to download the Chinese company's BT stack to your computer and install it.  This often interferes with the existing stack that comes with Windows and may create new problems. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This, and the inherent short range of BT, are why you see devices that will take commands via WiFi and relay them via Bluetooth, but not accept commands via Bluetooth and convert them to a traditional WiFi signal.  It takes a machine with a compatible BT stack and its own connection to a wireless network of some sort via its own wireless adapter.  That's why you're seeing the articles that you're seeing; they do exactly that.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obtaining the BT patent and permissions to build a router that does this specifically and selling it as a consumer item faces hurdles manufacturers wouldn't want. BT is intended for short-range, so any product like that would immediately catch flak from misunderstanding consumers for being terrible once they're out of the same room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[A Bluetooth Router which can connect to your WiFi router, however, does exist.][2] If you read the Amazon reviews for it, you'll find that the low-star reviews all involve problems I've described here (failure to pair due to BT stack, range issues past 30 direct feet, etc.).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet is probably to use a computer or phone that will manage its BT-connected peripherals as peripherals and just give other things access to those peripherals via Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth_Special_Interest_Group&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.engadget.com/2016/01/05/cassia-hub-bluetooth-router/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9185" RevisionGUID="8f440683-22b6-4519-b132-53e38b523677" CreationDate="2018-05-09T13:23:01.163" UserId="9084" Text="I've done this with a common Epson multifunction that has a document feeder.  Receipts are a legal relic because they're entirely dependent on the belief they can't be fabricated well, so you'll get stupid requests like being told you need to scan in the full receipt but not cut it into segments. Obviously, if given that limitation, you'd normally have to fold it and scan in each segment using the scanner bed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is stupid, because then you get the same result, it just takes more time.  Think about it; how would a 30-foot x 3 inch document look on a laptop display?  The answer is, &quot;like a white line down the middle of the screen&quot;.  It will also take up a massive amount of graphics memory unless the quality is particularly low, in which case the text would zoom poorly and you'd have a new problem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also obtain your own printer and print a receipt for anything anywhere, saying whatever you want, if you're that nefarious individual who keeps returning Nerf guns without the bullets or whatever.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My solutions have varied by demand:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. My ex-wife hid income from the IRS, and they demanded receipts for my deductions I took for that tax year because she moved out to the boonies and went off-grid after the divorce.  My attorney wanted the uncut receipts scanned in.  I cut them into 14-inch lengths, loaded them into the document feeder, and then Photoshopped them back together. &#xD;&#xA; 2. I worked for a company that required we pay for a lot of things on our own and just reimbursed us.  They wanted the original, uncut receipts, but it was honestly an awful job and they would claim we never sent receipts when we did.  If we sent them cut *or folded to fit in the envelope*, they'd say they were invalid.  Either way, we'd no longer have the receipt and couldn't say anything else about it. &#xD;&#xA;  I paid for a cheap receipt printer online and got the thermal toner and roll for it. Then I did the trick from #1 and provided endless streams of &quot;original but abbreviated-format&quot; receipts until I stopped having that problem from the company, as I had convinced them I had contacted the other businesses involved to continually request copies that could fit into interdepartmental envelopes without folding. &#xD;&#xA; 3. This one fits your OCR demand.  I needed the receipts to come in and easily have values dropped into Excel tables.  I wanted them to go straight in, not just get dumped into a Word file and leave me to parse (that would not have saved time at all).  For that purpose, I used a product similar to (but not the same as) [this Pen Scanner][1].  It's tedious, but it worked. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, it's a matter of &quot;any scanner&quot;.  The nature of receipts has rendered the need for a massively belt-fed receipt scanner relatively obsolete.  The [Fujitsu ScanSnap][2] can manage up to 30 inches.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Scanmarker-Air-Pen-Scanner-Highlighter/dp/B01N07J2AE&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://scansnapcommunity.com/tips-tricks/9501-scanning-a-page-longer-than-14-inches-using-your-ix500/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9186" RevisionGUID="f921b872-4803-48d5-92ad-596401fa2dbd" CreationDate="2018-05-09T14:05:07.820" UserId="9261" Text="&lt;br/&gt;Hi!&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;What do you think about the series lenovo thinkpad? I want to buy a new laptop. I have a good PC at the work. A laptop is an additional computer. Sometimes, I may use it at work (ASP.NET, C#). Now, I'm choosing from 2 models: &lt;b&gt;Lenovo Thinkpad L380 yoga&lt;/b&gt; and &lt;b&gt;Asus Zenbook UX430&lt;/b&gt;. I think, that me will have enough of their performance.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;I saw a zenbook and I liked it. But some people said, that Thinkpads better, but it's a L-series, but not the T or X.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;Lenovo - https://www.informatique.nl/185248/lenovo-thinkpad-yoga-l380-20m5-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;Asus - https://www.dateks.lv/en/cenas/portativie-datori/157603_asus_zenbook-ux430ua-gv259r-royal-blue-14-fhd-ips-core-i5-8250u-8gb-256gb-ssd-windows-10-pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your answers!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9186" RevisionGUID="f921b872-4803-48d5-92ad-596401fa2dbd" CreationDate="2018-05-09T14:05:07.820" UserId="9261" Text="Lenovo Thinkpad L380 Yoga or Asus Zenbook UX430?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9186" RevisionGUID="f921b872-4803-48d5-92ad-596401fa2dbd" CreationDate="2018-05-09T14:05:07.820" UserId="9261" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29834" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="3444d58f-d4c6-43ff-801f-5d4df1d49bf9" CreationDate="2018-05-09T17:54:29.100" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29835" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9187" RevisionGUID="c7cc83b4-c2e2-4858-b990-a6917c111aaa" CreationDate="2018-05-09T18:01:53.193" UserId="9084" Text="Technologically, these machines are effectively identical.  I think the Zenbook as a slightly larger case and display area, but that's it.  I'd lean to the Zenbook, both for aesthetics and the fact I'm familiar with ASUS's excellent warranty service.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29836" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="4fb5d7f1-e959-4cf6-b0a1-55d62511a268" CreationDate="2018-05-09T18:54:29.193" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29837" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="f2238b87-0303-4e8f-9543-017f42ec0af7" CreationDate="2018-05-09T20:54:27.780" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29841" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="875b9e78-3466-4ac5-8780-0bc4e199857a" CreationDate="2018-05-09T21:54:27.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29845" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="1cbe1abe-70ea-433b-a6d1-b961a02b5e8a" CreationDate="2018-05-09T22:54:27.730" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9192" RevisionGUID="5abec264-4f07-46d6-8801-1ecab967e607" CreationDate="2018-05-10T01:19:01.297" UserId="9266" Text="What would be the best display type for a wall mounted monitor that rotates photographs and artworks as an aesthetic piece? Is there anything that works well with glare and also lacks the telltale backlighting they gives most monitors away? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9192" RevisionGUID="5abec264-4f07-46d6-8801-1ecab967e607" CreationDate="2018-05-10T01:19:01.297" UserId="9266" Text="Monitor for photo/art display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9192" RevisionGUID="5abec264-4f07-46d6-8801-1ecab967e607" CreationDate="2018-05-10T01:19:01.297" UserId="9266" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9193" RevisionGUID="fad29837-554e-4d5b-8429-221ff2afd2d6" CreationDate="2018-05-10T04:31:47.853" UserId="9267" Text="I’ve been charged with finding an external monitor (wall mount) 32”, for a friend’s 2010 MacBook Pro. I’ve no idea where to start.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding connectivity (she says no WiFi and/or no Bluetooth). &#xD;&#xA;Doesn’t an external monitor or tv typically require an HDMI cable? I don’t believe the 2010 15” laptop even has that port, and her laptop is in the shop, she knows even less than me and I’ve been unable to that information online so far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Her price point is max 500.&#xD;&#xA;I’m at a loss as to where to begin. Any help on what questions I need to ask, where to look, and dare to dream, suggestions on what to buy would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29859" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9193" RevisionGUID="fad29837-554e-4d5b-8429-221ff2afd2d6" CreationDate="2018-05-10T04:31:47.853" UserId="9267" Text="External monitor options /availability for a 2010 MacBook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29860" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9193" RevisionGUID="fad29837-554e-4d5b-8429-221ff2afd2d6" CreationDate="2018-05-10T04:31:47.853" UserId="9267" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9194" RevisionGUID="c63de1f8-000e-4c0a-a9ff-6d9186fd676b" CreationDate="2018-05-10T10:40:07.640" UserId="9268" Text="I am looking for the not very expensive receiver. The main things I am interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.1-7.1 support&#xD;&#xA; - As much TOSLINK (optical) ports as possible&#xD;&#xA; - Possibility to control it without IR (RS232, TCP/LAN, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please suggest some models, I'll try to research our market ..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29862" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9194" RevisionGUID="c63de1f8-000e-4c0a-a9ff-6d9186fd676b" CreationDate="2018-05-10T10:40:07.640" UserId="9268" Text="AV Receiver with 3-5 TOSLINK ports and remote (NOT IR) control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29863" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9194" RevisionGUID="c63de1f8-000e-4c0a-a9ff-6d9186fd676b" CreationDate="2018-05-10T10:40:07.640" UserId="9268" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29868" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9193" RevisionGUID="93747436-a280-4884-bb39-79a5e48dddf3" CreationDate="2018-05-10T14:24:46.040" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29871" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9186" RevisionGUID="88754f8d-b3c3-4274-8a38-a8b6e012c9c1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T15:38:13.720" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29882" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="bcb5f549-5932-4b3e-a599-b5592a5e489b" CreationDate="2018-05-10T21:54:59.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9200" RevisionGUID="ebc9ae33-88bb-4585-a3d3-416a9db4c381" CreationDate="2018-05-11T09:02:37.537" UserId="4065" Text="The relevant part of my system is straightforward - a Radeon R9 370 card with HDMI + DisplayPort output. The monitor is a 4K (3840 x 2160) Dell UltraSharp UP3216Q with HDMI 2.0 and DisplayPort connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **underlying problem** is the well-known issue that when the monitor turns off, or the second monitor changes, my windows all move around. I've tried a number of fixes but none work well. Those that do, work by forcing the EDID values in Windows, which means if I do disconnect or change the monitor (as opposed to just turning it off), it still thinks there's a 3840 x 2160 attached, when it **should** resize to a smaller screen :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My **solution** is to move to a pass-through EDID emulator to solve this properly. The intended effect is that if I turn the monitor off but the cable is still connected, Windows will see it (due to the emulator) as still connected, and windows won't move round. But if the cable itself is unplugged, the EDID emulator will be disconnected with it and Windows will see a change of monitor or loss of monitor instead, which is ideal behaviour. That should fix it, if the EDID emulator works as expected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Important point to note:** The EDID emulator needs to be a **&quot;pass through&quot;** type - one that has male and female ports, &quot;listens&quot; to the monitor's own EDID, and remembers/emulates it when the monitor isn't powered on. &quot;Headless&quot;, &quot;dummy&quot; or &quot;ghost&quot; EDID emulators are the wrong type. Those types are used to fake a monitor totally, to a computer that doesn't have any monitor at all, so that the graphics card will be fully used in calculations and remote desktop work. A headless/dummy EDID emulator only have one port, a bit like a USB stick, and won't do the job I need; it needs to be pass-through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that 3840 x 2160 DisplayPort pass-through EDID emulators are either extremely new on the market, or not on the market yet, and I want this now :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My proposed solution is to notice that my monitor has HDMI 2.0 as well as DisplayPort. That means I could feed it 3840 x 2160 on the HDMI port and use an HDMI EDID emulator instead. Unlike DisplayPort, I'm pretty sure that 3840 x 2160 **HDMI** pass-through EDID emulators are much easier to find on the market and cheaper too, and this would solve my Windows problem equally well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My adapter's HDMI output is already in use, so I would need to get a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter as well. The connection would be: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **_(R9 370 adapter Displayport) -&gt; (DisplayPort cable) -&gt; (DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter) -&gt; (HDMI 2.0 pass-through EDID emulator) -&gt; monitor_**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm guessing I will need an HDMI 2.0 emulator and adapter for this resolution. My questions are the obvious ones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Will an HDMI EDID pass-through emulator work correctly &quot;behind&quot; a DP to HDMI adapter?&lt;br/&gt;_(I can't think of a reason it wouldn't but you know how compatibility and media changing can be. I could be wrong.)_&#xD;&#xA;2. Can DP to HDMI adapters, and HDMI EDID emulators be found, that work at 3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz? 2. Will HDMI 2.0 handle it? Are all adapters/emulators pretty much equally reliable for this kind of need, or should I go for a specific buty more expensive brand?&lt;br/&gt;_(Cheaper is best if possible!)_&#xD;&#xA;4. If it'll work, what would be a recommendation for the cheapest &quot;known good&quot; adapter and emulator I should get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm in the UK and usually buy on Amazon or EBay.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29891" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9200" RevisionGUID="ebc9ae33-88bb-4585-a3d3-416a9db4c381" CreationDate="2018-05-11T09:02:37.537" UserId="4065" Text="DisplayPort to HDMI adapter + HDMI EDID pass-through emulator, suitable for my 2160p (4k) display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29892" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9200" RevisionGUID="ebc9ae33-88bb-4585-a3d3-416a9db4c381" CreationDate="2018-05-11T09:02:37.537" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29893" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9194" RevisionGUID="7dd48905-8c79-4b0b-b411-e5ad230c25bf" CreationDate="2018-05-11T12:25:30.890" UserId="9268" Comment="added 222 characters in body" Text="I am looking for the not very expensive receiver. The main things I am interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5.1-7.1 support&#xD;&#xA; - As much TOSLINK (optical) ports as possible&#xD;&#xA; - Possibility to control it without IR (RS232, TCP/LAN, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please suggest some models, I'll try to research our market ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: there is no too much requirements from my side. I have currently ONKYO TX-SR 601 E receiver that is 435×175×432mm and that's more or less max size I need. The price I'm trying to hit is ~400$ for the used unit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29903" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="33fd4fd5-c00f-4bd1-99f6-0a97b9f3773c" CreationDate="2018-05-11T22:08:38.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9203" RevisionGUID="417506d6-7eb4-4668-8b88-d43686a9931d" CreationDate="2018-05-11T23:04:48.163" UserId="819" Text="There are several by Saitek which meet the main requirements (six face buttons, PlayStation style dual analog, USB):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Saitek P2900](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDO2SO/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Saitek P2600](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL7034/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 3. [Saitek P2500](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000075B5V/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 4. [Saitek P990](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL703E/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple from Logitech:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Logitech Wingman RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004VUGN/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Logitech Wingman Cordless&#xD;&#xA;    RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005USQA/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And two others:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Buffalo BSGP1601BK](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031UCGLW/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Sabrent USB-GAMEPAD](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEWTSWU/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9204" RevisionGUID="1c324a21-947d-429d-8a3a-7d1c4891b169" CreationDate="2018-05-11T23:29:34.107" UserId="819" Text="You need a DVI-Male to VGA adapter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IWP87S&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;plus a [VGA to Component converter](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&amp;cp_id=10114&amp;cs_id=1011407&amp;p_id=8668&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2) to connect the PC to the analog TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29907" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9203" RevisionGUID="2b0d57ea-ef91-4479-9709-acf682372acb" CreationDate="2018-05-11T23:36:55.453" UserId="819" Comment="Added sentence" Text="There are several by Saitek which meet the main requirements (six face buttons, PlayStation style dual analog, USB):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Saitek P2900](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDO2SO/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Saitek P2600](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL7034/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 3. [Saitek P2500](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000075B5V/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 4. [Saitek P990](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL703E/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple from Logitech:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Logitech Wingman RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004VUGN/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Logitech Wingman Cordless&#xD;&#xA;    RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005USQA/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And two others:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Buffalo BSGP1601BK](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031UCGLW/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Sabrent USB-GAMEPAD](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEWTSWU/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last two have more of the nice-to-have features than the Saitek or Logitech choices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29908" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="3617b969-d511-40fe-b486-8bbe56e8ea19" CreationDate="2018-05-12T00:08:34.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9206" RevisionGUID="9b4ef4e3-3b5f-4cca-9fa7-fdfcad09f837" CreationDate="2018-05-12T09:45:18.640" UserId="9281" Text="I have a [NAD D 3020 amplifier][1] that comes with a remote controller, but the remote is crap (and I'm not the only one to say it). Fortunatelly, they have a document with all the [remote codes][2], some of them not even available with the supplied remote. The codes are something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Function     Format Address Data   Address Data&#xD;&#xA;                        Hex     Hex    Dec     Dec&#xD;&#xA;    -----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;    Power Off    NEC    877C    C8     34684   200&#xD;&#xA;    ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like is a universal remote that would allow programming its keys with these codes, instead of relying on manufacturer/model references (which may be wrong, or missing, or incomplete), or on learning (which requires a working remote to learn from). Do you know such a device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3020-hybrid-digital-amplifier/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://nadelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/D-3020-Remote-Codes.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29921" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9206" RevisionGUID="9b4ef4e3-3b5f-4cca-9fa7-fdfcad09f837" CreationDate="2018-05-12T09:45:18.640" UserId="9281" Text="Programmable universal remote" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29922" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9206" RevisionGUID="9b4ef4e3-3b5f-4cca-9fa7-fdfcad09f837" CreationDate="2018-05-12T09:45:18.640" UserId="9281" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="a7d998bd-2004-4cc0-b771-9b05f0eb3d90" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:10:48.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="c0947cb5-59d5-4e34-931d-e481401593fa" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:39:12.697" UserId="9284" Text="I'm going to begin a 3 years school in september, and i would like to buy a laptop i could use during those 3 years (or more if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was asking myself which kind of laptop i should buy around 600€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The point is that i will never use it to play videogames, not even once, so I'm asking which kind of components is the most important...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Shall i take a laptop without graphic card and with bad cpu ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually all i want is a fast laptop (with a ssd) to program, 15 inch on which i can set up a dual boot !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry about my english and thank you in advance for your answers !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: i don't need more than 500gigagbytes storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="c0947cb5-59d5-4e34-931d-e481401593fa" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:39:12.697" UserId="9284" Text="Buy laptop no videogame" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="c0947cb5-59d5-4e34-931d-e481401593fa" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:39:12.697" UserId="9284" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29932" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="d8f7f7c2-e291-436d-89d7-c8301e66705e" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:44:34.830" UserId="9284" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I'm going to begin a 3 years school in september, and i would like to buy a laptop i could use during those 3 years (or more if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was asking myself which kind of laptop i should buy around 600€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The point is that i will never use it to play videogames, not even once, so I'm asking which kind of components is the most important...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Shall i take a laptop without graphic card and with bad cpu ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually all i want is a fast laptop (with a ssd) to program, 15 inch on which i can set up a dual boot ! Would also be better if it could be quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry about my english and thank you in advance for your answers !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: i don't need more than 500gigagbytes storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29933" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9210" RevisionGUID="eb1ee5b2-ee27-4462-913f-f8cb9c6062be" CreationDate="2018-05-12T20:00:19.263" UserId="9283" Text="Video editing favours CPUs with a relatively high core count but also good single threaded performance. I'd recommend a Ryzen 5 1600 but if that's too expensive for you, I think you should go with a quad core Core i3. I'd recommend the 8100 model as its price won't be much higher than 100$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9211" RevisionGUID="9f19fa83-1c8b-4189-bed9-f90e1a6840ab" CreationDate="2018-05-13T03:20:39.227" UserId="6047" Text="Based on the currency you selected and information I gleaned off your profile I'm assuming that you live in France and want to be able to buy a laptop that could be shipped to France.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer Laptop Aspire 5 €671,99 (MSRP: €754,99) [@ Newegg][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer Aspire 5][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop cpu, first of all is an **i7 8th Gen 8550 U**. If you're not familiar with the Intel lettering system, U signifies that the laptop is a power-saving laptop. Effectively this means that the cpu speed is reduced to achieve longer battery life and energy efficiency. While not breaking any land speed records, will be more than enough for basic coding and internet surfing. Don't expect to run heavy IDEs like Visual Studio without some lag. The laptop also features **8 GB DDR4**, which you shouldn't come close to filling up in any normal user case scenario. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD**, for a total combined storage far above your requested storage amount. I've even managed to fit in a dedicated graphics card, the **NVIDIA GeForce MX150**, but that's really gratuitous at this point. You might actually be able to play some really visually intensive 3D games at really low settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be able to set any laptop to dual boot if you simply install both operating systems on it. I'm assuming you're going for a Linux, Windows set up and this should be very feasible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/fr/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834316266&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-316-266-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYXuh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29936" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9211" RevisionGUID="29dd4c68-1f51-4cd2-979a-0d5b71931869" CreationDate="2018-05-13T03:34:27.920" UserId="6047" Comment="Forgot to recommend the actual cheaper laptop" Text="Based on the currency you selected and information I gleaned off your profile I'm assuming that you live in France and want to be able to buy a laptop that could be shipped to France.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo Laptop IdeaPad 320 €545,99 (MSRP: €720,99) [@ Newegg][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo IdeaPad 320][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features an **i7 7th Gen 7500U**. If you're not familiar with the Intel lettering system, U signifies that the laptop is a power-saving laptop. Effectively this means that the cpu speed is reduced to achieve longer battery life and energy efficiency. While not breaking any land speed records, will be more than enough for basic coding and internet surfing. Don't expect to run heavy IDEs like Visual Studio without some lag. This option's CPU is about 59.7% slower than option 2 according to it's average cpu passmark benchmark. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD**, for a total combined storage far above your requested storage amount. The laptop also features **8 GB DDR4**, which you shouldn't come close to filling up in any normal user case scenario. I've even managed to fit in a dedicated graphics card, the **NVIDIA GeForce MX150**, but that's really gratuitous at this point. You might actually be able to play some really visually intensive 3D games at really low settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer Laptop Aspire 5 €671,99 (MSRP: €754,99) [@ Newegg][3]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer Aspire 5][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop cpu, first of all is an **i7 8th Gen 8550 U**. The laptop also features **8 GB DDR4**. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD**. Like option 1 it has a **NVIDIA GeForce MX150**. You're really paying for the newer, faster CPU at this point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be able to set any laptop to dual boot if you simply install both operating systems on it. I'm assuming you're going for a Linux, Windows set up and this should be very feasible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/fr/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834860846&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-860-846-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yKBm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/fr/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834316266&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-316-266-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYXuh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9206" RevisionGUID="9554a47e-6775-45ef-9a6f-e895bed7c9c3" CreationDate="2018-05-13T06:43:41.630" UserId="6047" Comment="Small spelling, grammar errors" Text="I have a [NAD D 3020 amplifier][1] that comes with a remote controller, but the remote is crap (and I'm not the only one to say it). Fortunately, they have a document with all the [remote codes][2], some of which are not even available with the supplied remote. The codes are something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Function     Format Address Data   Address Data&#xD;&#xA;                        Hex     Hex    Dec     Dec&#xD;&#xA;    -----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;    Power Off    NEC    877C    C8     34684   200&#xD;&#xA;    ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a universal remote that would allow programming its keys with these codes, instead of relying on manufacturer/model references (which may be wrong, or missing, or incomplete), or on learning (which requires a working remote to learn from)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3020-hybrid-digital-amplifier/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://nadelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/D-3020-Remote-Codes.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29938" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9206" RevisionGUID="9554a47e-6775-45ef-9a6f-e895bed7c9c3" CreationDate="2018-05-13T06:43:41.630" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 9281 edit id of 684" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="94f7ac24-c573-4a6d-85ea-9cc6def0f53b" CreationDate="2018-05-13T09:10:10.503" UserId="6047" Comment="Spelling, grammar, focused requests." Text="I'm going to begin an additional 3 years of school in September, and I was thinking about buying a laptop i could use for the next 3 years or more if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is **600€.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The point is that I will never use it to play videogames, not even once, so I'm asking which kind of components is the most important...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Shall I take a laptop without graphic card and with bad cpu ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, **all I want is a snappy laptop (preferably with a SSD) to program**, **15 inch** on which I can set up a dual boot. I would prefer the laptop be be quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't need more than **500 gigabytes storage**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29940" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="94f7ac24-c573-4a6d-85ea-9cc6def0f53b" CreationDate="2018-05-13T09:10:10.503" UserId="6047" Comment="Spelling, grammar, focused requests." Text="School laptop (non-gaming)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29941" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="94f7ac24-c573-4a6d-85ea-9cc6def0f53b" CreationDate="2018-05-13T09:10:10.503" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 8 edit id of 685" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9210" RevisionGUID="d5ba3388-81df-4456-aead-b18d60e30975" CreationDate="2018-05-13T19:04:12.977" UserId="9283" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="Video editing favours CPUs with a relatively high core count but also good single threaded performance. I'd recommend a Ryzen 5 1600 but if that's too expensive for you, I think you should go with a quad core Core i3 or a Ryzen 3. I'd recommend the 8100 model as its price won't be much higher than 100$. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29947" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9213" RevisionGUID="f200a746-b9ea-4da8-897b-55cfb9bfd732" CreationDate="2018-05-13T19:04:47.277" UserId="5751" Text="I'm looking for a hobbyist microcontroller that can have its code modified very frequently (like code generated on the fly, or polymorphic code), without worrying about running out of write cycles. Meeting any one of these requirements will fulfill this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Uses a Von Neumann architecture, or&#xD;&#xA; - Has the ability to use some of its RAM as code memory despite being Harvard architecture, or&#xD;&#xA; - Can execute code from external memory/storage, or&#xD;&#xA; - Has internal nonvolatile storage with no write cycle limit (e.g., [MRAM][1])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, it should have both of these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Supported by an open-source toolchain, and&#xD;&#xA; - Usable without needing to surface-mount solder (i.e., either available in a DIP package or pre-mounted on a breakout/dev board)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.everspin.com/toggle-mram-technology" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29948" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9213" RevisionGUID="f200a746-b9ea-4da8-897b-55cfb9bfd732" CreationDate="2018-05-13T19:04:47.277" UserId="5751" Text="Hobbyist microcontroller without code write endurance worry" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29949" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9213" RevisionGUID="f200a746-b9ea-4da8-897b-55cfb9bfd732" CreationDate="2018-05-13T19:04:47.277" UserId="5751" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9215" RevisionGUID="5d3ec6f8-b40e-4f96-b3b3-ec1587c30052" CreationDate="2018-05-14T12:29:20.460" UserId="4896" Text="I have a Logitech Harmony 785 - discontinued now - and it has the capability to learn controls from existing remotes. I'm not sure whether all the current crop all have the same capability, [but I would imagine so.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.logitech.com/en-gb/harmony-universal-remotes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.myharmony.com/en-gb/adding-a-device-thats-not-found-in-the-harmony-database" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29955" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9217" RevisionGUID="14cedf30-e5c6-44c8-b02e-c6f5501ff01b" CreationDate="2018-05-14T20:44:49.020" UserId="9283" Text="Ryzen has the clear advantage. How good a CPU is isn't only affected by the number of cores. There is much more to CPUs than that. Ryzen does way better in both multithreaded and singlethreaded workloads than any FX chip because of that. Core count is what companies use for marketing as the average user thinks this way: More cores is always better. , which is obviously not the case. Also, as mentioned by previous answers, your rig will be upgradable with Ryzen as AMD will continue to support the AM4 socket for a couple of years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9218" RevisionGUID="bd805023-a500-45c1-8437-b2e271cc52f1" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:14:21.950" UserId="9292" Text="I am thinking about replacing my old [Samsung 700T (Intel Core i5 3317U 1700MHz / 4Gb RAM / 3G / touchscreen)](https://www.svyaznoy.ru/catalog/notebook/7063/1638757/specs#mainContent) laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something on the market which is close to it in terms of usability, just more modern or am I looking for a unicorn ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Intended usage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Software development;&#xD;&#xA;* Internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I.e. File system, CPU, and memory intensive labor + usability in terms of text (code) visibility on the screen. WiFi network independence is a **huge** bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Required parameters&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* built-in 4G (LTE) adapter;&#xD;&#xA;* 13&quot; — 15&quot; anti-glare display;&#xD;&#xA;* 8th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 processor (or &quot;better&quot;);&#xD;&#xA;* 256+ Gb SSD (526 Gb is preferable);&#xD;&#xA;* 8 Gb RAM with a possibility of upgrade (16 Gb is preferable);&#xD;&#xA;* Great video card is **NOT required**;&#xD;&#xA;* Touchscreen is **NOT required**;&#xD;&#xA;* Budget is open-ended, but ideally below $1500/2000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Nice to have&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Back-lit keyboard;&#xD;&#xA;1. 4+ hours long living battery.&#xD;&#xA;1. Port-rich form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Close examples**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ASUS ZenBook UX430UA-DH74](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768M9KVY?ref_=pe_623860_70668520) — Misses LTE adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell XPS 13 (9370)](http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/xps-13/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop/fncwy604s) -- Misses LTE adapter; mixed reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ce4ew.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSJD3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WmrG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29957" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9218" RevisionGUID="bd805023-a500-45c1-8437-b2e271cc52f1" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:14:21.950" UserId="9292" Text="Programming laptop ('18)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29958" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9218" RevisionGUID="bd805023-a500-45c1-8437-b2e271cc52f1" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:14:21.950" UserId="9292" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9219" RevisionGUID="2df6c830-9d3c-4b13-832c-876dfb2f40a9" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:21:44.460" UserId="9293" Text="Apart from being a programmer I am also a hobby 3D designer, 3D artist, webdesigner and photographer. My current XMG C405 laptop is getting old and has a few issues, the main one being, it only has one HDMI out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I want to replace that old machine with a new one, but I cannot quite find any reliable information about 3D creation performance. There is a ton of benchmarks for gaming but that is not very comparable by my experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are the two setups I had in mind. One using Ryzen and one using Coffee Lake. The reason why I consider Ryzen is the better multi core performance. Also all the 3D and Adobe software I use supports multi core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X&#xD;&#xA;- MB: ASUS PRIME X470-PRO&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon RX 580 PULSE&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: G.Skill DIMM DDR4-3200 32GB manufacturer code: F4-3200C16S-16GVK&#xD;&#xA;- SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Coffeelake setup is basically the same just the CPU and mainboard are different&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Core i7-8700K&#xD;&#xA;- MB: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F Gaming&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon RX 580 PULSE&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: G.Skill DIMM DDR4-3200 32GB manufacturer code: F4-3200C16S-16GVK&#xD;&#xA;- SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you consider better for 3D graphics and photography. Would you switch any parts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to see what kind of art I make you can checkout here: http://design.ulbricht.codes/&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Yes I own a hipster domain&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9219" RevisionGUID="2df6c830-9d3c-4b13-832c-876dfb2f40a9" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:21:44.460" UserId="9293" Text="Which configuration for graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9219" RevisionGUID="2df6c830-9d3c-4b13-832c-876dfb2f40a9" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:21:44.460" UserId="9293" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29962" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9218" RevisionGUID="df5c9884-55e6-40b4-8be5-d39ae9996dca" CreationDate="2018-05-14T22:49:52.073" UserId="9292" Comment="added 217 characters in body" Text="I am thinking about replacing my old [Samsung 700T (Intel Core i5 3317U 1700MHz / 4Gb RAM / 3G / touchscreen)](https://www.svyaznoy.ru/catalog/notebook/7063/1638757/specs#mainContent) laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there something on the market which is close to it in terms of usability, just more modern or am I looking for a unicorn ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Intended usage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Software development;&#xD;&#xA;* Internet browsing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I.e. File system, CPU, and memory intensive labor + usability in terms of text (code) visibility on the screen. WiFi network independence is a **huge** bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Required parameters&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* built-in 4G (LTE) adapter;&#xD;&#xA;* 13&quot; — 15&quot; anti-glare display;&#xD;&#xA;* 8th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 processor (or &quot;better&quot;);&#xD;&#xA;* 256+ Gb SSD (526 Gb is preferable);&#xD;&#xA;* 8 Gb RAM with a possibility of upgrade (16 Gb is preferable);&#xD;&#xA;* Great video card is **NOT required**;&#xD;&#xA;* Touchscreen is **NOT required**;&#xD;&#xA;* Budget is open-ended, but ideally below $1500/2000 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Nice to have&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Back-lit keyboard;&#xD;&#xA;1. 4+ hours long living battery.&#xD;&#xA;1. Port-rich form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Close examples**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ASUS ZenBook UX430UA-DH74](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768M9KVY?ref_=pe_623860_70668520) — Misses LTE adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell XPS 13 (9370)](http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/xps-13/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop/fncwy604s) -- Misses LTE adapter; mixed reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, this might be something I am looking for [ThinkPad X1 Carbon 6th Gen](https://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-x/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-6th-Gen/p/20KHCTO1WWENUS0/customize?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ce4ew.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSJD3.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WmrG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29963" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="d59e819b-8f8c-4d49-a24e-8cd978dad864" CreationDate="2018-05-15T01:11:37.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29965" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="1ef95020-1557-45af-b299-5b85a44a97d4" CreationDate="2018-05-15T06:11:38.100" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="d1706ed2-c1a5-463a-944e-85529f903163" CreationDate="2018-05-15T07:00:09.443" UserId="9296" Text="i'm setting up a computer with an LGA1151 cpu socket, and i'm looking for the cpu that would use the least amount of electricity for this motherboard. the cpu will not be stressed in the slightest, and does not need to be fast. i already have a computer doing the same tasks, running on a 2-core 35W TDP i3-7300T with hyperthreading disabled, and htop reports the cpu usage as being roughly &quot;5-8% per core&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;going by TDP, it seems the 25W TDP `Intel Xeon E3-1235L V5` is my best bet, but i don't know if TDP is a good indicator, because that's &quot;power consumption during high-intensity workloads&quot;, which is not what i'll be using it for.. suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(also i'm confused at how the 4-core Xeon can use less power than all the 2-core / 1-core alternatives, going by TDP, but i guess that should be a separate question)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29967" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="d1706ed2-c1a5-463a-944e-85529f903163" CreationDate="2018-05-15T07:00:09.443" UserId="9296" Text="LGA1151 CPU lowest power consumption?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29968" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="d1706ed2-c1a5-463a-944e-85529f903163" CreationDate="2018-05-15T07:00:09.443" UserId="9296" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29969" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="180801e8-85de-429f-b5ad-dfbc533b2657" CreationDate="2018-05-15T07:11:37.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9221" RevisionGUID="e84d825e-0ab4-4e67-ac7e-af374400d6c3" CreationDate="2018-05-15T12:36:38.993" UserId="9084" Text="The machines are identical from what you've shown, save the processor and motherboard.   That really makes this a &quot;which is better for my purpose, a current gen Ryzen or a current gen i7&quot;.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it comes down to it, the i7 handles single-threaded to quad-threaded apps better than the Ryzen, but the Ryzen shines when used in 4+ thread applications.  Their current pricing is nearly identical. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the 2700x is a new processor (relatively), there is less anecdotal information available and it's hard to find information about overclocking.  Still, [what information we do have suggests that the two are pretty comparable.][1] If you're a particular fan of one company over the other, you can probably just go with your fandom preference and not have it bite you (which is rare for fans of any tech company).  If you don't care, I'd buy whichever cost less, unless some of your rendering software can take advantage of more than 4 cores (AMD) or specifically does not (Intel).     &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-2700X/3937vs3958" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9219" RevisionGUID="984d3784-69e3-4f9f-8d69-d9f92e026840" CreationDate="2018-05-15T13:39:35.907" UserId="9293" Comment="added 217 characters in body" Text="Apart from being a programmer I am also a hobby 3D designer, 3D artist, webdesigner and photographer. My current XMG C405 laptop is getting old and has a few issues, the main one being, it only has one HDMI out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I want to replace that old machine with a new one, but I cannot quite find any reliable information about 3D creation performance. There is a ton of benchmarks for gaming but that is not very comparable by my experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here are the two setups I had in mind. One using Ryzen and one using Coffee Lake. The reason why I consider Ryzen is the better multi core performance. Also all the 3D and Adobe software I use supports multi core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X&#xD;&#xA;- MB: ASUS PRIME X470-PRO&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon RX 580 PULSE&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: G.Skill DIMM DDR4-3200 32GB manufacturer code: F4-3200C16S-16GVK&#xD;&#xA;- SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Coffeelake setup is basically the same just the CPU and mainboard are different&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Core i7-8700K&#xD;&#xA;- MB: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F Gaming&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon RX 580 PULSE&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: G.Skill DIMM DDR4-3200 32GB manufacturer code: F4-3200C16S-16GVK&#xD;&#xA;- SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one would you consider better for 3D graphics and photography. Would you switch any parts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: What would you guys say about the graphics card for rendering and graphics? I checked out the nvidia GTX 1060 but it seemed a bit expensive for the few percent more performance, do you have any suggestion?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you would like to see what kind of art I make you can checkout here: http://design.ulbricht.codes/  &#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Yes I own a hipster domain&lt;/sup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29972" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9217" RevisionGUID="516f9707-ebbd-4e56-b058-8f9322eee709" CreationDate="2018-05-15T14:44:22.070" UserId="6047" Comment="fixed grammar" Text="Ryzen has the clear advantage. How good a CPU is isn't only affected by the number of cores. There is much more to CPUs than that. Ryzen does way better in both multithreaded and singlethreaded workloads than any FX chip because of that. Core count is what companies use for marketing as the average user thinks this way -more cores is always better- which is obviously not the case. Also, as mentioned by previous answers, your rig will be upgradable with Ryzen as AMD will continue to support the AM4 socket for a couple of years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29973" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9217" RevisionGUID="516f9707-ebbd-4e56-b058-8f9322eee709" CreationDate="2018-05-15T14:44:22.070" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by -1 edit id of 686" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29974" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9217" RevisionGUID="fffd3cb7-98b9-44a3-ac55-eacfb06411ca" CreationDate="2018-05-15T14:44:22.070" UserId="60" Comment="fixed grammar" Text="Ryzen has the clear advantage. How good a CPU is isn't only affected by the number of cores. There is much more to CPUs than that. Ryzen does way better in both multi-threaded and single-threaded workloads than any FX chip because of that. Core count is what companies use for marketing as the average user thinks  that more cores is always better, which is obviously not the case. Also, as mentioned by previous answers, your rig will be upgradable with Ryzen as AMD will continue to support the AM4 socket for a couple of years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29977" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="16685722-6be7-468f-8b4a-a9ceb44b1513" CreationDate="2018-05-15T22:16:48.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29978" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="0e12a5df-5942-4a18-aaf5-dad0e3498433" CreationDate="2018-05-16T01:16:30.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9222" RevisionGUID="2c97595b-63bb-47ef-a167-562caedb02ff" CreationDate="2018-05-16T06:03:03.590" UserId="819" Text="Here are a couple of products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [China 3-in-1 DisplayPort Male to HDMI DVI VGA Female Adapter Cable on Global Sources](http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Mini-DisplayPort/p/sm/1155971964.htm#1155971964)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [HDMI to VGA Kit - Monoprice.com](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&amp;cp_id=10114&amp;cs_id=1011410&amp;p_id=11566&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29980" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9222" RevisionGUID="6c0951c0-157c-43e1-942f-111e7b84886b" CreationDate="2018-05-16T06:51:12.663" UserId="819" Comment="Added multiport adapter" Text="Here are a couple of products:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [China 3-in-1 DisplayPort Male to HDMI DVI VGA Female Adapter Cable on Global Sources](http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Mini-DisplayPort/p/sm/1155971964.htm#1155971964)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Amazon.com: CableDeconn Multiport 4-in-1 HDMI to Hdmi/dvi/vga Adapter Cable with Audio Output Converter (black): Electronics](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768B7S49/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [HDMI to VGA Kit - Monoprice.com](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&amp;cp_id=10114&amp;cs_id=1011410&amp;p_id=11566&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29981" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="23a64e11-14f6-436d-ba37-af5ccdfc3c06" CreationDate="2018-05-16T12:19:17.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29982" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9169" RevisionGUID="019f7839-33fc-46ed-95b9-d9faf6a15e3e" CreationDate="2018-05-16T13:19:16.620" UserId="-1" Comment="68" />
  <row Id="29983" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="8b6d5fea-33d3-4fad-ba28-b39aab4e60e8" CreationDate="2018-05-16T15:19:18.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="29985" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="1923eb34-1b8a-4d06-956f-dd5c831a72a2" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:32:44.567" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29986" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="5f543768-c175-49a5-aa7e-ddec35b8f5f6" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:32:44.567" UserId="8" Comment="69" />
  <row Id="29987" PostHistoryTypeId="15" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="463a4e52-291f-4233-959b-5b9093e94555" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:33:24.513" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29988" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="3" RevisionGUID="ceb47e6d-6527-49ea-b6bf-949f368e005d" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:33:24.513" UserId="8" Comment="69" />
  <row Id="29989" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="aaea1b74-08f7-45ec-a102-e4cc708bca35" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:33:39.977" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29990" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="adb5b0bb-443a-4b59-b213-026a17dcded8" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:33:39.977" UserId="8" Comment="70" />
  <row Id="29991" PostHistoryTypeId="15" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="18c101c2-d856-4d46-b107-f44ede3cc66a" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:38:22.923" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="29992" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="8" RevisionGUID="7d504ca2-834e-49ac-83c4-44a1097c8936" CreationDate="2018-05-16T17:38:22.923" UserId="8" Comment="70" />
  <row Id="29997" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9225" RevisionGUID="3a96b148-dee0-48a2-9de2-72081b6ec272" CreationDate="2018-05-17T02:15:56.543" UserId="9248" Text="After extensive searching, I found a few options. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Eurocom X4C][1]. This is what I eventually ended up buying. It has up to 64 GB of RAM, two M.2 slots, the desktop 8700k, and 1080 GPU, and a selection of several different screens, including on UHD version. It's also 15.6 inches, so pretty much exactly what I was looking for. The only issues I'd mention are that it's somewhat prone to backlight bleed, and, like most computers built on a Clevo chassis, has a little give in the keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Hidevolution Evoc P750TM-1][2]. It seems to be built on the same chassis as the previous, and has similar specifications. One advantage is that it comes with up to 2800 MHz RAM, rather than the 2400 MHz standard on the Eurocom. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few other options I found (e.g. from Acer) that had a 4k screen, but either had &quot;only&quot; 32 GB of RAM, came with only a 1070, or both. If these aren't obstacles, one of these laptops might be the better choice, since they're much more professionally put together. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.eurocom.com/ec/specs(431)EUROCOM_SkyX4C&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hidevolution.com/evoc-clevo-p750tm1-g-custom-built-gaming-laptop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30001" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="42a4e179-8554-4926-a517-4d78952fc179" CreationDate="2018-05-17T09:20:31.817" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9226" RevisionGUID="ca9fcf51-0f10-452f-b5aa-2d3ecfaac09b" CreationDate="2018-05-17T13:27:19.147" UserId="9308" Text="I am looking for an simple external RAID enclosure that meets the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 3x 3.5&quot; or more&#xD;&#xA;* RAID5&#xD;&#xA;* JBOD&#xD;&#xA;* compatible with 12 TByte drives&#xD;&#xA;* compatible with Linux&#xD;&#xA;* average performance&#xD;&#xA;* not very loud (= large fan or fans with slow speed)&#xD;&#xA;* connect via USB3 to host system; LAN is nice but not necessary&#xD;&#xA;* Kensington slot for locks or other possibility to attach a steel cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever product I could find online seems to lack essential criteria. Either the enclosure is well built, then it exhibits slow and even erratic data transfer speeds. Or it is well built but does not support 12 TByte drives. Or it is quite perfect but the fan is very noisy. Et cetera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a well built product?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9226" RevisionGUID="ca9fcf51-0f10-452f-b5aa-2d3ecfaac09b" CreationDate="2018-05-17T13:27:19.147" UserId="9308" Text="Looking for good external RAID enclosure" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9226" RevisionGUID="ca9fcf51-0f10-452f-b5aa-2d3ecfaac09b" CreationDate="2018-05-17T13:27:19.147" UserId="9308" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30007" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="459e9900-f4cf-44e8-9fc0-96db41e8ce42" CreationDate="2018-05-17T14:20:32.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30008" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="e1d6a8af-d2c1-4238-acc9-1951cbf6f221" CreationDate="2018-05-17T15:20:38.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30009" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="2e9448b5-258f-4fd1-991e-e17380f6dd25" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:24:26.977" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30010" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1526" RevisionGUID="4f43b6c1-d500-4de2-9308-f0bf6e78da8b" CreationDate="2018-05-17T19:06:49.723" UserId="1226" Comment="fixed link" Text="T100TA and X205TA are both of Bay Trail-T architecture, that is not properly supported by Linux yet. Actually they are not laptops, they are tablets. You'd better to look at Asus VivoBook X202E, HP Pavilion TouchSmart 11z or Asus Q200 which are traditional laptops. Also you can dual-boot almost any chrome-book with your Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please check your final choice against this database of Linux-supported computers: http://linux-hardware.org/index.php?view=computers&amp;type=notebook&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found Linux report for ASUS X202EP in the database (https://linux-hardware.org/?probe=4d608145e3) and some HP touchsmart models (tm2, tx2)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30011" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9227" RevisionGUID="da06708e-67b7-4735-9daa-7048e67e33db" CreationDate="2018-05-17T20:46:34.030" UserId="9311" Text="I got a [Lenovo Thinkstation E32][1] and I want to install a SSD card to speed up my computer, but I got stucked in some specification such as SSD M.2 and SSD M.2 NVMe. I read some specification and concluded that NVMe is more powerfull than SSD M.2. Now I'm wondering if I need to take some adapters to use this [NVMe PCIe M.2][2] in my computer, cause I already have an PCIe Graphical Card installed. This ***NVMe PCIe M.2*** work on a PCIe different from my graphical card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://thinkstation-specs.com/thinkstation-e32/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN5FJZQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526588315&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ssd%20m2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30012" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9227" RevisionGUID="da06708e-67b7-4735-9daa-7048e67e33db" CreationDate="2018-05-17T20:46:34.030" UserId="9311" Text="SSD M.2 NVMe PCIe" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30013" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9227" RevisionGUID="da06708e-67b7-4735-9daa-7048e67e33db" CreationDate="2018-05-17T20:46:34.030" UserId="9311" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30014" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9227" RevisionGUID="d7a50714-bffd-4c3a-8865-feedbf05db2d" CreationDate="2018-05-17T22:26:02.353" UserId="60" Comment="Cleaned up the post. " Text="I have a [Lenovo Thinkstation E32][1] and I want to install an SSD to speed up my computer, but I got stuck on some specifications such as SSD M.2 and SSD M.2 NVMe. I read that NVMe is more powerful than SSD M.2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking I need to install an adapter to use this [NVMe PCIe M.2][2] in my computer, because I already have a PCIe Graphics Card installed. What adapter can I use that will allow the highest speed transfers that will fit in my computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://thinkstation-specs.com/thinkstation-e32/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN5FJZQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526588315&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ssd%20m2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="9720924c-cdc2-4728-9d97-5507d8f09008" CreationDate="2018-05-17T23:59:38.863" UserId="9061" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux, and I would like to put a SSD Drive as my main Disk Drive (replacing the current HDD). It is possible? The ideia is to speed the computer, by placing the OS and applications in the SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of hardware being used :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible with this old motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30016" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="9720924c-cdc2-4728-9d97-5507d8f09008" CreationDate="2018-05-17T23:59:38.863" UserId="9061" Text="SSD Drive on old MotherBoard ASRock K7S41GX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30017" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="9720924c-cdc2-4728-9d97-5507d8f09008" CreationDate="2018-05-17T23:59:38.863" UserId="9061" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9229" RevisionGUID="6a472f0e-260c-4900-91c0-66dd5b156469" CreationDate="2018-05-18T00:47:33.283" UserId="819" Text="I've had success using two devices. One which is a self-contained device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Composite, S-Video, and HDMI to HDMI Converter and Switch with HDMI PAL NTSC Support - Monoprice.com](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9994)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the other which is a video capture card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Diamond MM VC500 Video Capture Card](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815306013)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30019" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9230" RevisionGUID="da249604-20f6-41cf-bc8b-f1bd233b9dac" CreationDate="2018-05-18T01:25:46.060" UserId="819" Text="The [Behringer MS16](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00181T20O) has the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Behringer MS16 Manual][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5A11.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9231" RevisionGUID="c480cc05-44b6-46ec-96d0-3317713189db" CreationDate="2018-05-18T02:21:56.283" UserId="1329" Text="&gt; I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; […] I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my screens got cracked in public transport, so I understand why you prefer smaller devices. Is [this][1] your Dell mini 1012?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such small screen sizes usually only feature a 1366x768 resolution at this time. Even though you are used to 10.1 you may want to look a bit beyond 11.6 and get FHD or better screens in return.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing the 10&quot; Dell mini with my 12.5&quot; ASUS C302C:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    270 x 198 x 36 mm&#xD;&#xA;    304 x 210 x 13.7 mm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We might need to reevaluate this list from time to time. The move to Android apps solved some problems but I'm not saying that it solves yours. Containers on Chrome OS aka Crostini though may solve your problem, but it's not clear at the moment if it takes one update cycle (6 weeks), more than a few months or if it happens this year at all judging by how it went with Android apps on Chrome OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told tools by John Lewis can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Yes you can remove the warning. I would recommend [mrchromebox.tech][2]'s script though as it is actively maintained. To disable write-protect you'll usually find a DIP switch or a screw that shorts a circuit. If your laptop is still booting you can always recover through recovery media or through the script and revert back to the state where your device is eligible for warranty.&#xD;&#xA;2. In times of USB type-C make sure to get a device with more than one USB-C PD capable port, that should solve this problem. I've heard about loose power jacks, but it didn't happen to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Chrome OS Weekly Buying Advice Thread&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VictoryGoth posts weekly advice on [reddit][3], at the moment the following devices would meet your criteria, be sure to check that the processor is not an ARM one though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook Spin 11 (11.65&quot; x 8.11&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/series-features/acerchromebookspin11&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Chromebook C202SA (307 x 199 x 20.9 mm): https://www.asus.com/Commercial-Laptops/ASUS-Chromebook-Flip-C213NA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;- HP Chromebook 11 G6 (12.04 x 8.18 x 0.71 in | 306 x 208 x 18.05 mm): http://www8.hp.com/us/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=18280450#!tab=specs&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 N7 (11.72&quot; x 8.27&quot; x 0.87&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/professional-series-features/acerchromebook11n7&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 C771 (11.72&quot; x 8.23&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.GNZAA.002&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 CB3-132 (11.57&quot; x 8.03&quot; x 0.73&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.G4XAA.001&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I would check 12.5&quot; models too should you go with a Chromebook, you get higher resolutions and better processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Dell-Mini-1012-Netbook.25429.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/8j983f/weekly_buying_advice_thread_may_13_19/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30021" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="72e2ce2e-816f-4bcb-be39-7a384d9ae649" CreationDate="2018-05-18T09:47:17.103" UserId="9296" Comment="71" />
  <row Id="30022" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9232" RevisionGUID="4d6a4bfe-88b7-4742-b0f7-e92bd59e9a8e" CreationDate="2018-05-18T14:31:52.283" UserId="9313" Text="Put (relatively) simply, an NVMe capable drive can utilize the full bandwidth of pci-e x4 while non-NVMe capable drives will run at most at SATA speeds. Linked are two adapters that should let you leverage NVMe, one from Amazon and one from Newegg.&#xA;&#xA;Lycom DT-120 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYCQP38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gjU.AbK3KY1TA&#xA;&#xA;Syba SI-PEX40110 adapter:&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=15-124-167&#xA;&#xA;Both will get the job done and are rated highly on their respective sites." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30023" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9233" RevisionGUID="5a05c4a9-505e-47d6-aefd-fa4fd4dac001" CreationDate="2018-05-18T15:42:53.930" UserId="1977" Text="I have to setup a meeting room, I'm going to buy a big TV, speakers, polycom phone and I want a reccomendation about the video/audio sharing chance.&#xD;&#xA;The first solution is a simple HDMI cable between the table and the TV/Speakers but I would like to know if exists some good wireless alterantives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw Airtame but if possibile I want to avoid the software installation in the PC, for example meeting guests don't want to install custom software in their devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw Ubiq but I don't like the internet approach, better to not be bound by network bandwidth. Not all guests are enabled to internet access." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30024" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9233" RevisionGUID="5a05c4a9-505e-47d6-aefd-fa4fd4dac001" CreationDate="2018-05-18T15:42:53.930" UserId="1977" Text="Meeting room hardware for audio and video sharing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30025" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9233" RevisionGUID="5a05c4a9-505e-47d6-aefd-fa4fd4dac001" CreationDate="2018-05-18T15:42:53.930" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;meeting&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30026" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9234" RevisionGUID="ac7a2211-c8b9-48c7-8631-359c1a6ff985" CreationDate="2018-05-18T16:08:28.683" UserId="9084" Text="Possible? Yes.  Desirable or functional....now that's a question.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your motherboard only supports IDE/PATA connected drives.  This is the traditional &quot;ribbon&quot; cable connection.  This means you will need an IDE/PATA cable-connected drive, like this one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/128GB-KingSpec-2-5-inch-SM2236-Controller/dp/B0091T4ZWU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that the price of this one piece of hardware is worth more than the entire rest of the rig combined, and it's still only just over $80 USD for 128GB.  You're also limited to PATA IDE communication speeds, hamstringing the SSD.  If you're just an enthusiast and like to keep up old machines, it might be worth it to you, but I recommend looking into a new mobo, processor, and RAM if this is your only computer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30027" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7780" RevisionGUID="82edd1b4-4594-44b3-9d6c-1ba43470279c" CreationDate="2018-05-18T16:31:57.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30028" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="004596e0-e7ac-41f6-841e-0bb6db036911" CreationDate="2018-05-18T16:49:45.000" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30029" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9229" RevisionGUID="35f4fb4f-f835-408d-9610-2c2f3913601a" CreationDate="2018-05-18T19:27:44.500" UserId="819" Comment="Added reference" Text="I've had success using two devices. One which is a self-contained device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Composite, S-Video, and HDMI to HDMI Converter and Switch with HDMI PAL NTSC Support - Monoprice.com](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9994)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the other which is a video capture card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Diamond MM VC500 Video Capture Card](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815306013)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [240p — HD Retrovision](https://www.hdretrovision.com/240p/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [How to get the best picture from your Retro games](https://draculascave.co/2014/12/18/the-ultimate-cable-guide-how-to-get-the-best-picture-from-your-retro-games/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30030" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="1c72b7bc-fddc-45b6-a809-54095482b740" CreationDate="2018-05-18T23:32:11.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="c753128a-a75e-4e60-8074-69084b6cbe58" CreationDate="2018-05-19T05:41:13.503" UserId="9315" Text="I am a IT professional, recently got into learning Video Editing for YouTube content creation. Currently I have tested few video editing tools on a laptop with below specs and the render times were devastating and frustrating. I created a sample 2 min project in After Effects and the render time was 8 hours with below specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell 3542&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i5 4210U&#xD;&#xA;    8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD Graphics Family (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    2047MB NVIDIA GeForce 820M (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It got me thinking, what's the best PC I can build or Laptop I can purchase withing 60-70K that would significantly reduce these render times and motivate me in using such powerful application?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I plan to editing and creating content in 1080p, not more than that for now.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30039" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="c753128a-a75e-4e60-8074-69084b6cbe58" CreationDate="2018-05-19T05:41:13.503" UserId="9315" Text="Need help building budget video editing PC/Laptop in 60-70K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30040" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="c753128a-a75e-4e60-8074-69084b6cbe58" CreationDate="2018-05-19T05:41:13.503" UserId="9315" Text="&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30041" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="749ddf39-4695-4a9f-9519-0a24e9fcd0c3" CreationDate="2018-05-19T05:50:52.917" UserId="9315" Comment="added 92 characters in body" Text="I am a IT professional, recently got into learning Video Editing for YouTube content creation. Currently I have tested few video editing tools on a laptop with below specs and the render times were devastating and frustrating. I created a sample 2 min project in After Effects and the render time was 8 hours with below specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell 3542&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i5 4210U&#xD;&#xA;    8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD Graphics Family (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    2047MB NVIDIA GeForce 820M (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It got me thinking, what's the best PC I can build or Laptop I can purchase withing 60-70K that would significantly reduce these render times and motivate me in using such powerful application? Even the Apple recommendation would do to if in the mentioned budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I plan to editing and creating content in 1080p, not more than that for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30042" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="86267def-f565-4e14-a9e3-3c40e0896dda" CreationDate="2018-05-19T06:10:00.937" UserId="9315" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="I am a IT professional, recently got into learning Video Editing for YouTube content creation. Currently I have tested few video editing tools on a laptop with below specs and the render times were devastating and frustrating. I created a sample 2 min project in After Effects and the render time was 8 hours with below specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell 3542&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i5 4210U&#xD;&#xA;    8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD Graphics Family (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    2047MB NVIDIA GeForce 820M (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It got me thinking, what's the best PC I can build or Laptop I can purchase within 60-70K that would significantly reduce these render times and motivate me in using such powerful application? Even the Apple recommendation would do to if in the mentioned budget as I am open to other applications as well such as Final Cut Pro X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I plan to editing and creating content in 1080p, not more than that for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9237" RevisionGUID="9f5d1b03-c65e-4f69-ac35-66bb4036ebf0" CreationDate="2018-05-19T08:30:13.623" UserId="9248" Text="For budget, don't go with a laptop unless portability is essential for you. Although the performance gap between laptops and desktops has shrunk with recent CPU and especially GPU series, a laptop capable of good video editing will still cost a lot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming that you're looking for something under ₹70,000 (1029 USD). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For price, I'd highly recommend building your own desktop. You'll probably save a few hundred US dollar in labor right there&amp;mdash;not so relevant for multi-thousand dollar machines, maybe, but for a budget device it's OK. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [recommended requirements][1] for After Effects are modest, simply a multicore CPU and 16 GB RAM. To get good performance, you'll probably need a little more than that. I'd recommend an i7 CPU (or the AMD equivalent). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If you step back a generation, you should be able to grab one of the best Intel CPUs of its generation, the i7-7700k, for about $250 used or even new. For example, [here][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For RAM, I'd go with 16 GB of DDR4, which should be [around $150.][3]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For your GPU, try getting a [used 1060][4] for about $200. Depending on what you're doing in After Effects, a GPU could be essential or barely necessary, but CPU is usually a lot more important, so this is a compromise. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For the motherboard, you might as well get an H370. Motherboards are cheap to begin with, and anything lower will set future upgrades back unnecessarily. For example, [here][5] for $132. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For hard drives, I'd get one fast working SSD and one large HDD for storage. You can get a  2 TB  HDD (7200 RPM) for [about $50][6], and a 500 GB SSD [for only $150 or so.][7] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can probably grab a budget case for about $70. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This totals about $1050 for a mostly new system. It should be very much capable of dealing with After Effects. It's slightly over your maximum (and I haven't included fans, power supply, etc.) but you can slice a little off by getting a lower tier motherboard (save $70), or a 250 GB SSD (save $70), or by getting the RAM used. Using a 6700k (two generations older, but similar speeds and can be overclocked anyway) could also save you a little. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't talk about fans, etc., since they'll contribute relatively little to the price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really need a mobile system, it's going to be much harder to find a good one. There are a few good options, though, such as the [Acer Aspire VX 15.][8] This has a 1050 Ti GPU, about 16 GB of RAM, and a 7th-generation i7 CPU. Storage is minimal, though, so you'll end up needed an external hard drive, and as a laptop its performance will certainly be lower than than a desktop of similar price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://helpx.adobe.com/after-effects/system-requirements.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-7th-Gen-Intel-Core-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-Unlocked-New-BX80677I77700K/123142256630?epid=11019364663&amp;hash=item1cabd9b7f6:g:cUcAAOSwHf5a~4U2&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X16%20GB%20ddr4.TRS0&amp;_nkw=16%20GB%20ddr4&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_odkw=500%20gb%20ssd&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1060%20gpu%20used.TRS2&amp;_nkw=1060%20gpu%20used&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_odkw=1060%20gpu%20new&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119072&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-Ultrastar-2TB-64MB-7200RPM-3-5-Enterprise-SATA-6-0Gb-s-Hard-Drive/161193823310?hash=item2587e68c4e:g:-GIAAOxydlFSzhG~:sc:USPSPriority!63130!US!-1&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X500%20gb%20ssd.TRS0&amp;_nkw=500%20gb%20ssd&amp;_sacat=0&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acer-Aspire-VX-15-Gaming-Laptop-VX5-591G-75RM-1050-Ti-16GB-256GB-SSD-i7-PC/112953661098?hash=item1a4c9016aa:g:Bi0AAOSwH~ta24CO" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="9f68ebde-88f3-43f5-96aa-44bd4fd8b57a" CreationDate="2018-05-19T16:22:15.953" UserId="9315" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="I am a IT professional, recently got into learning Video Editing for YouTube content creation. Currently I have tested few video editing tools on a laptop with below specs and the render times were devastating and frustrating. I created a sample 2 min project in After Effects and the render time was 8 hours with below specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell 3542&#xD;&#xA;    Intel Core i5 4210U&#xD;&#xA;    8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD Graphics Family (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    2047MB NVIDIA GeForce 820M (Dell)&#xD;&#xA;    232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It got me thinking, what's the best PC I can build or Laptop I can purchase within ₹60-70K that would significantly reduce these render times and motivate me in using such powerful application? Even the Apple recommendation would do to if in the mentioned budget as I am open to other applications as well such as Final Cut Pro X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I plan to editing and creating content in 1080p, not more than that for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30048" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9236" RevisionGUID="9f68ebde-88f3-43f5-96aa-44bd4fd8b57a" CreationDate="2018-05-19T16:22:15.953" UserId="9315" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Need help building budget video editing PC/Laptop in ₹60-70K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30049" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9239" RevisionGUID="864c203b-f5e0-4e80-b299-b2d01f09a1e1" CreationDate="2018-05-19T19:44:33.337" UserId="9248" Text="Have you considered the Dell Latitude 7490? For 1700 or 1800 USD, you can get a 14.1 inch screen, 16 GB of DDR4, an Intel i7-8650U (supposedly up to 4.2 GHz), and a 512 GB SSD. It also seems to have 4G capability. It does only have Iris graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm sure the battery can hit 4 hours, and it has a multitude of ports. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9240" RevisionGUID="dc36e6a3-650b-4d73-8c02-8298f8ef072a" CreationDate="2018-05-19T20:57:52.353" UserId="1024" Text="I'm looking for recommendations for a good quality digital sound recorder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Small enough to be easily concealed. Preferably large enough to fit&#xD;&#xA;    in a pocket.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Able to run wirelessly. Rechargeable batteries would be preferred,&#xD;&#xA;    but they don't seem to be common with this type of device.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Has good quality recording, which is also not badly affected by&#xD;&#xA;    surrounding noise. The usual way of handling this seems to be to&#xD;&#xA;    have multiple microphones, but I don't care what method is used.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Able to record conversations on Android phones, preferably via&#xD;&#xA;    internal connections to the phone&#xD;&#xA; 5. Able to record conversations in different standard formats, and at&#xD;&#xA;    different levels of quality&#xD;&#xA; 6. Works well with Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A nice to haves would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The ability to be used as a standalone microphone as well as a&#xD;&#xA;    recorder&#xD;&#xA; 2. Durable quality. Can cope with being dropped, for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I'm India, which limits available choices. But feel free to include options without regard to availability here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking at the Zoom series of sound recorders, particularly the H1N. But I'm open to other suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9240" RevisionGUID="dc36e6a3-650b-4d73-8c02-8298f8ef072a" CreationDate="2018-05-19T20:57:52.353" UserId="1024" Text="Sound recorder for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9240" RevisionGUID="dc36e6a3-650b-4d73-8c02-8298f8ef072a" CreationDate="2018-05-19T20:57:52.353" UserId="1024" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30053" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9240" RevisionGUID="5f8740a1-4cab-4cff-b966-30a854904dda" CreationDate="2018-05-19T21:19:43.703" UserId="1024" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9240" RevisionGUID="5f8740a1-4cab-4cff-b966-30a854904dda" CreationDate="2018-05-19T21:19:43.703" UserId="1024" Comment="edited tags" Text="I'm looking for recommendations for a good quality digital sound recorder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Small enough to be easily concealed. Preferably large enough to fit&#xD;&#xA;    in a pocket.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Able to run wirelessly. Rechargeable batteries would be preferred,&#xD;&#xA;    but they don't seem to be common with this type of device.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Has good quality recording, which is also not badly affected by&#xD;&#xA;    surrounding noise. The usual way of handling this seems to be to&#xD;&#xA;    have multiple microphones, but I don't care what method is used.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Able to record conversations on Android phones, preferably via&#xD;&#xA;    internal connections to the phone&#xD;&#xA; 5. Able to record conversations in different standard formats, and at&#xD;&#xA;    different levels of quality&#xD;&#xA; 6. Works well with Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The ability to be used as a standalone microphone as well as a&#xD;&#xA;    recorder&#xD;&#xA; 2. Durable. Can cope with being dropped, for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that I'm India, which limits available choices. But feel free to include options without regard to availability here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too concerned about price, but anything more than say USD 200 will probably be too expensive for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking at the Zoom series of sound recorders, particularly the H1N. But I'm open to other suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30059" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9231" RevisionGUID="9a69b4bb-87ec-4d74-b2e3-50f668ccc583" CreationDate="2018-05-20T01:52:38.947" UserId="1329" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="&gt; I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; […] I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my screens got cracked in public transport, so I understand why you prefer smaller devices. Is [this][1] your Dell mini 1012?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such small screen sizes usually only feature a 1366x768 resolution at this time. Even though you are used to 10.1 you may want to look a bit beyond 11.6 and get FHD or better screens in return.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing the size of the 10&quot; Dell mini with my 12.5&quot; ASUS C302C, it makes up for its size by being slim and sturdy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dell mini:  270 x 198 x 36 mm&#xD;&#xA;    Asus C302C: 304 x 210 x 13.7 mm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We might need to reevaluate this list from time to time. The move to Android apps solved some problems but I'm not saying that it solves yours. Containers on Chrome OS aka Crostini though may solve your problem, but it's not clear at the moment if it takes one update cycle (6 weeks), more than a few months or if it happens this year at all judging by how it went with Android apps on Chrome OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told tools by John Lewis can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Yes you can remove the warning. I would recommend [mrchromebox.tech][2]'s script though as it is actively maintained. To disable write-protect you'll usually find a DIP switch or a screw that shorts a circuit. If your laptop is still booting you can always recover through recovery media or through the script and revert back to the state where your device is eligible for warranty.&#xD;&#xA;2. In times of USB type-C make sure to get a device with more than one USB-C PD capable port, that should solve this problem. I've heard about loose power jacks, but it didn't happen to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Chrome OS Weekly Buying Advice Thread&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VictoryGoth posts weekly advice on [reddit][3], at the moment the following devices would meet your criteria, be sure to check that the processor is not an ARM one though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook Spin 11 (11.65&quot; x 8.11&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/series-features/acerchromebookspin11&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Chromebook C202SA (307 x 199 x 20.9 mm): https://www.asus.com/Commercial-Laptops/ASUS-Chromebook-Flip-C213NA/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;- HP Chromebook 11 G6 (12.04 x 8.18 x 0.71 in | 306 x 208 x 18.05 mm): http://www8.hp.com/us/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=18280450#!tab=specs&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 N7 (11.72&quot; x 8.27&quot; x 0.87&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/professional-series-features/acerchromebook11n7&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 C771 (11.72&quot; x 8.23&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.GNZAA.002&#xD;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 CB3-132 (11.57&quot; x 8.03&quot; x 0.73&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.G4XAA.001&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I would check 12.5&quot; models too should you go with a Chromebook, you get higher resolutions and better processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Dell-Mini-1012-Netbook.25429.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/8j983f/weekly_buying_advice_thread_may_13_19/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30067" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="93061317-1906-4250-80e9-574e443d7d21" CreationDate="2018-05-20T13:00:50.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30068" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="bce30a4b-b934-4bb2-95e5-be2a6fdb6c42" CreationDate="2018-05-20T14:01:27.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9242" RevisionGUID="1b0185b6-5912-496b-9f96-f8c23bcb226b" CreationDate="2018-05-20T14:30:25.417" UserId="9322" Text="I'm looking for a GPS logger to create tracks whilst walking that I can later use to geotag photos. I have been using a Q-Starz BT1000P for this for several years, but would like to replace it for the following reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I can't trust that it will work for more than 1-2 days as there are no indications of failure - I once lost an entire day's track because it had frozen completely early on, and lost another day trying to fix it - ultimately I needed to pull the battery for an extended period to reset it, losing all data that was on it. As a consequence I download the log daily&#xD;&#xA;- Accessing/downloading the tracks requires using Q-Starz's proprietary software - this requires Windows (for driver and software), and a working internet connection (to actually *do* anything) due to a dependency on Google Maps API. This software hadn't been updated in quite some time, and uses an embedded Internet Explorer instance to display the map, which given that Google Maps doesn't support IE any longer means that it is just a matter of time before it stops working completely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, what I'm looking for is something that records logs in a format that is easily readable and doesn't require special OS-specific software/drivers to access - e.g. exposing itself as a flash drive, or recording to an SD or micro SD card - that I could then access via USB-OTG with my Android smartphone, or preferably backup automatically to my WD My Passport Wireless Pro (which is a self-contained battery-powered HDD with a USB port and SD card reader for automatic 'headless' importing/backing up of SD cards and USB flash drives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Log position frequently enough to create an accurate walking track (every few metres/seconds)&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life of at least 1-2 days walking whilst tracking (min 12 hours per day), preferably longer&#xD;&#xA;- USB chargeable, or with user replaceable batteries (if replaceable then non-proprietary)&#xD;&#xA;- Log format is readable on Windows/Android, and easily converted to GPX&#xD;&#xA;- **Currently** available to purchase in UK/EU - emphasising this as all of the options I've seen recommended (for example in [Recommended driverless GPS loggers?](https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/60500) on GIS Exchange) have long been impossible to buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9242" RevisionGUID="1b0185b6-5912-496b-9f96-f8c23bcb226b" CreationDate="2018-05-20T14:30:25.417" UserId="9322" Text="Driverless GPS Logger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9242" RevisionGUID="1b0185b6-5912-496b-9f96-f8c23bcb226b" CreationDate="2018-05-20T14:30:25.417" UserId="9322" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30073" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="3004dff9-ea4c-4f97-8551-928bce25a3ec" CreationDate="2018-05-20T19:22:13.767" UserId="5579" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="I need a new PC, because my old one, doesn't hold up for my use anymore.&#xD;&#xA;He's slow has a long loading time and crashes a lot...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll use it mainly for the following programmes:&#xD;&#xA;Maya, Nuke, Houdini, Cubase, Photoshop, Premiere, After effects, Sketchup, Remake, Zbrush, DaVince...&#xD;&#xA;Basically, the suites of the foundry, Autodesk, Adobe...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want one with the minimum system requirements, but one that can run the above-mentioned software smoothly and can also do some simulations and render without crashing instantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also should be able to output 3D, this is asked in my other question:&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/8156/5579&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Current PC:&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7&#xD;&#xA;8GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i7 870 @ 2.93 GHz&#xD;&#xA;64bit&#xD;&#xA;NVIDIA GeForce GT 330&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this be a suitable solution, or am I missing something or spending too much money on something I don't need?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ghd4sZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Budget is between $1500 and $2000.-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9244" RevisionGUID="cf43a8ec-11d7-4d28-aa7a-38d72501d434" CreationDate="2018-05-21T00:01:53.110" UserId="1921" Text="1. Your existing cell phone&#xD;&#xA;2. GPS app&#xD;&#xA;3. save to phone/sd card&#xD;&#xA;4. extra USB battery packs to keep cell phone charged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Notes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  Cell phones use different GPS chipsets, therefore I can't say you will get reception or how good it will be.  Your cellphone's GPS may or may not be accurate and enough for you.  Also get an app that logs in the background so screen can be off." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9245" RevisionGUID="e2775f28-d385-43ca-8d7f-14b3718f79b1" CreationDate="2018-05-21T00:46:52.380" UserId="1921" Text="  - Raspberry Pi 3  $35&#xD;&#xA;  - cheap sd card 4g or 8gb&#xD;&#xA;  - power via usb port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has networking RJ45 and wifi built-in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Pi3 will automatically DHCP an ip address&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Configure hostapd and start up the process.&#xD;&#xA;Ipv4 forwarding will have to be turned on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a hardware forum, please google hostapd setup instructions for further details." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9246" RevisionGUID="2c4dec03-bf96-4905-a25a-55c6b3aa2814" CreationDate="2018-05-21T02:53:57.417" UserId="9323" Text="I cannot help a lot. The market is still complete and utter garbage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, a true 100W USB-C dedicated charger that has no other function (no other ports stealing the power, all 100W is in the one USB-C, and not a docking station). It is the Wacom MobileStudio Pro charger:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://buywacom.com.au/products/accessories/cables-and-power/power-adapter-for-mobilestudio-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure yet, but it should have the RCM certification for use in Australia. A company that size would be daft not to do it. Also, unfortunately the cord is not detachable. Laptop manufacturers who make these chargers tend to hold on to what they are used of, which is laptop chargers with hardwired cords. This means the cord cannot be replaced if damaged, it cannot be swapped for cables of different lengths, and if anybody actually cares, it would make it impossible to fast charge an iPad with the USB-C to Lightning cable (the only way to charge at full rate right now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for multiple ports, there are ones with 8x 60W USB-C PD ports. Also ones with six and four, plus a cabinet with 20x PD ports (up to 60W each, but shared with 120V per bank and 4 banks for total of 480W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-chargers&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/news/new-usb-c-power-delivery-products-coolgear.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are an American place so this information is practically useless. But it is still promising that we might start to see stuff like this from reputable sources. They will likely lack regulatory certification, and they all appear to have massive separate DC power supplies, so they are not at all portable. It will be the wrong AC voltage, and might not support dual-voltage. There is no guarantee the power supplies are standard in any way to replace them with suitable ones. For use behind an office desk or kitchen bench, in America, perhaps they would work. If the power bricks that supply them use IEC appliance plugs, and support dual voltage for 240V, then you could swap the cord out for one from another country. But if it is not certified, if you import it, you become liable if it hurts anybody, and also if you get caught selling it, you can get slugged with massive fines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to see is a dual-port one that is compact and portable. If they cannot cram enough power in, the ports could share power (such as 100W from one port or 60W each if both used simultaneously). As long as one port can give a considerable amount of power." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="289" RevisionGUID="6e8e6743-1f89-4498-a894-170a45e6d7a9" CreationDate="2018-05-21T14:48:39.757" UserId="199" Comment="updated requirements due to Debian upgrade" Text="Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works properly with Linux 4.9 kernel&#xD;&#xA;- Easy to insert/remove card&#xD;&#xA;- SDXC card support (64-128GB cards)&#xD;&#xA;- SDHC card support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB 3.0 interface/speed&#xD;&#xA;- Separate slot for SD and microSD cards (no need for an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried a few SD card readers but none of them worked properly with older Linux kernels/distributions. Usually they recognized the reader and the memory card but there were unreadable files and IO errors. As far as I remember they worked well with Windows so I guess it was a driver bug in Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9249" RevisionGUID="de183a60-0628-40ae-b9b4-d960a3934258" CreationDate="2018-05-21T14:50:15.873" UserId="199" Text="[Kingston FCR-MLG4 MobileLite G4][1] works well for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Works properly with Linux 4.9 kernel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Works well with Debian Stretch (Linux kernel 4.9) and Ubuntu 17.10 (kernel 4.16).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Easy to insert/remove card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It fairly easy. (I found that easier than both Kingston FCR-MRG2 Generation 2 micro SD Reader and Kingston FCR-ML MobileLite 9-in-1 Card Reader).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; SDXC card support (64-128GB cards)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; SDHC card support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Works well with a variety of SD cards. I have tested it with sizes between 2GB-64GB without any issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; USB 3.0 interface/speed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it supports USB 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Separate slot for SD and microSD cards (no need for an adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has separate SD and microSD size slots. Additionally, both work at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.kingston.com/en/flash/readers/fcr-mlg4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9250" RevisionGUID="d7de1eaf-f5d1-4e9b-8489-0a9fea3d4dd3" CreationDate="2018-05-21T14:59:41.813" UserId="9304" Text="Kingston Digital USB 3.0 Super Speed Multi-Card Reader for SD/SDHC/SDXC/microSD/MS/Compact Flash CF Cards (FCR-HS4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer page: https://www.kingston.com/US/flash/readers/FCR-HS4&#xD;&#xA;Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAGX6MW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Meets all your requirements and I have used it successfully with Linux Kernels beginning with 4.4, 4.8, 4.10, and several newer kernels. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is fast and reliable with all cards I have used up to 256GB.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9250" RevisionGUID="ecc3621b-084e-4b51-bc07-6d230d16959e" CreationDate="2018-05-21T16:09:04.560" UserId="9304" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Kingston Digital USB 3.0 Super Speed Multi-Card Reader for SD/SDHC/SDXC/microSD/MS/Compact Flash CF Cards (FCR-HS4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer page: https://www.kingston.com/US/flash/readers/FCR-HS4  &#xD;&#xA;Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAGX6MW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Meets all your requirements and I have used it successfully with Linux Kernels beginning with 4.4, 4.8, 4.10, and several newer kernels. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is fast and reliable with all cards I have used up to 256GB.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30096" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9242" RevisionGUID="e6a4520c-2cea-4dfc-afa9-17c51c18db15" CreationDate="2018-05-21T20:10:41.017" UserId="9322" Comment="Further clarification of requirements, with example" Text="I'm looking for a GPS logger to create tracks whilst walking that I can later use to geotag photos. I have been using a Q-Starz BT1000P for this for several years, but would like to replace it for the following reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I can't trust that it will work for more than 1-2 days as there are no indications of failure - I once lost an entire day's track because it had frozen completely early on, and lost another day trying to fix it - ultimately I needed to pull the battery for an extended period to reset it, losing all data that was on it. As a consequence I download the log daily&#xD;&#xA;- Accessing/downloading the tracks requires using Q-Starz's proprietary software - this requires Windows (for driver and software), and a working internet connection (to actually *do* anything) due to a dependency on Google Maps API. This software hadn't been updated in quite some time, and uses an embedded Internet Explorer instance to display the map, which given that Google Maps doesn't support IE any longer means that it is just a matter of time before it stops working completely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, what I'm looking for is something that records logs in a format that is easily readable and doesn't require special OS-specific software/drivers to access - e.g. exposing itself as a flash drive, or recording to an SD or micro SD card - that I could then access via USB-OTG with my Android smartphone, or preferably backup automatically to my WD My Passport Wireless Pro (which is a self-contained battery-powered HDD with a USB port and SD card reader for automatic 'headless' importing/backing up of SD cards and USB flash drives).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Log position frequently enough to create an accurate walking track (every few metres/seconds)&#xD;&#xA;- Battery life of at least 1-2 days walking whilst tracking (min 12 hours per day), preferably longer&#xD;&#xA;- USB chargeable, or with user replaceable batteries (if replaceable then non-proprietary), to allow for longer term (e.g. week-long) use&#xD;&#xA;- Log format is readable on Windows/Android, and easily converted to GPX&#xD;&#xA;- **Currently** available to purchase in UK/EU - emphasising this as all of the options I've seen recommended (for example in [Recommended driverless GPS loggers?](https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/60500) on GIS Exchange) have long been impossible to buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9252" RevisionGUID="d79e3fff-dc39-4fdc-997f-9183d8462999" CreationDate="2018-05-21T23:34:48.047" UserId="9326" Text="I'm looking to get a second monitor for my 2018 27&quot; iMac. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Dell P2715Q][1] seems to be a common choice. It comes in 27&quot; and 24&quot; sizes. The [first review][2] on the Amazon site says that &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the 24&quot; has the highest pixel density for the resolution -- if you go&#xD;&#xA;&gt; up to 27 or 28&quot; you will get excellent resolution but not as crisp&#xD;&#xA;&gt; text&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone verify this? Or does anyone other suggestions for an external display for an iMac? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be mounting this second monitor in portrait mode, and using it for coding and reading. I value really clear text, the way my 5k monitor for the iMac provides. I especially like that zooming in with the trackpad preserves the clarity of the text. (Though this may be true for every hi-res monitor.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan is to connect the monitor to the iMac with a display port -&gt; USB-C cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-P2715Q-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00PC9HFNY?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3KO657VUCJBK7/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00PC9HFNY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30101" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9252" RevisionGUID="d79e3fff-dc39-4fdc-997f-9183d8462999" CreationDate="2018-05-21T23:34:48.047" UserId="9326" Text="24&quot; external monitor will have crisper text than 27&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30102" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9252" RevisionGUID="d79e3fff-dc39-4fdc-997f-9183d8462999" CreationDate="2018-05-21T23:34:48.047" UserId="9326" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30103" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="07696af1-f667-4cca-a0c3-8efa1da50d75" CreationDate="2018-05-22T01:06:05.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30104" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="c49b1487-4422-48f7-bbeb-11a841e25f31" CreationDate="2018-05-22T03:06:07.020" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30105" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="8be95db5-a455-41d6-878c-f2f462baedea" CreationDate="2018-05-22T04:06:06.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30106" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9253" RevisionGUID="bd931a55-b052-4feb-87ee-ab8114ae27a3" CreationDate="2018-05-22T09:01:47.947" UserId="9329" Text="I am Zornitsa from Airtame. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have a lot of customers who are using a Guest app for Windows for the cases, when they have guests without Admin right on their computers. You can download and save it to a USB an d place it in the meeting room. We also help with some easy guides that you can place in the room, as well as emails that you can send to your guests. Find the app here https://airtame.com/download. We would be happy to advise you more on your use case. You can find us here on our chat at the bottom right corner www.airtame.com.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best,&#xD;&#xA;Zornitsa&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30107" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="513c64c8-314b-4a1e-abb1-0b5ee23977b9" CreationDate="2018-05-22T11:11:16.783" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9254" RevisionGUID="b2b74136-7fc5-4dd9-8504-541f50bdc59e" CreationDate="2018-05-22T11:16:38.087" UserId="9330" Text="I would like to get a laptop, preferably with GTX 1080, install Linux on it and run deep learning frameworks such as Caffe or TensorFlow. I have heard, though, that some laptops can have problems with drivers or there can be some incompatibility issues with the GPU under Linux. Is there anybody who made it work on their laptop and could make a recommendation on which laptop the setup worked?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30109" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9254" RevisionGUID="b2b74136-7fc5-4dd9-8504-541f50bdc59e" CreationDate="2018-05-22T11:16:38.087" UserId="9330" Text="Laptop for deep learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30110" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9254" RevisionGUID="b2b74136-7fc5-4dd9-8504-541f50bdc59e" CreationDate="2018-05-22T11:16:38.087" UserId="9330" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9255" RevisionGUID="16bc8df7-311b-4255-a109-1a6710039ed2" CreationDate="2018-05-22T16:34:28.390" UserId="1921" Text="[![portable logger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Columbus-Bluetooth-Driverless-waypoints-Compatible/dp/B001JJRBU8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - 51 channels MTK chipset with enhanced positioning system technology (up to 1.5m accuracy with EPS Technology&#xD;&#xA;  - Voice-Tag function with built-in microphone allows adding live voice labels to any waypoint&#xD;&#xA;  - MicroSD Slot with support up to 2GB* capacity (about 25,000,000 waypoints, more than 2 years) *NOTE: 1GB microSD card is optional in the package&#xD;&#xA;  - Push-To-Log (POI anchor key) enables you to mark a POI at any time&#xD;&#xA;Unique SPY mode allows continuous standby logging of more than one month &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Battery Life:&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation &amp; Track Log Mode: 13-15 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation Mode: 15-17 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Track log Mode: 18-24 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Spy Mode: 15- 30 days&#xD;&#xA;  - Full charge should take about 2 - 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;  - Beeping can not be turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0QuM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9257" RevisionGUID="3071989e-2960-4908-9462-60742e0045c0" CreationDate="2018-05-23T13:05:30.007" UserId="9084" Text="The review reflects a general rule about monitor resolution; given the same resolution, a 27&quot; monitor will be slightly less clear on text and fine lines than a 24&quot; monitor.  This is where pixel density matters.   Unfortunately, this isn't measured the same way a monitor's screen is measured, as pixel density is about how many pixels there are per a standard unit of measure, but monitor size is measured by the total screen length from the lower left corner to the upper right. Just like that one South Park episode, they measure at an angle to get a higher number. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1920x1200, 24&quot; &#xD;&#xA;3840x2160, 27&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1920*1200 = 2,304,000 pixels&#xD;&#xA;3840*2160 = 8,294,400 pixels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these resolutions have a 16:10 aspect ratio.  We now have all of the numbers we need to determine quite a lot about the monitor.  We have the hypotenuse of a right triangle (24&quot;) but we have a different standard of measure for the sides (1920px L, 1200px W). We can use the Pythagorean Theorem to determine what '24&quot;' means.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1920sq + 1200sq = 3686400 + 1440000 = 5126400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sqrt of 5126400 = 2264.155471693585&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3840*2160 = 14745600 * 4665600 = 19411200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sqrt of 19411200 = 4405.814340164597&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now we know how many pixels lie across that hypoteneuse for each monitor at the given resolutions.  This lets us determine an estimate of density by ratio. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2264.155471693585 / 24&quot; = 94.33981132056604 approx ppi diagonally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4405.814340164597 / 27&quot; = 163.1783088949851 approx ppi diagonally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clearly, the higher resolution monitor here wins out.   That's because the 4k monitor is nearly double the resolution, and is not double the size.   The user who left the review likely had trouble seeing some things clearly on the 4k monitor because they were shrunk in size as a result, and lowered their resolution to 1080p; 1080p is not the native resolution on the monitor, and will appear blurry by comparison. This will also happen in fullscreen apps which do not support higher than 1080p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For text, I'd still use the smaller monitor.  Given what I just said about reducing resolution of your display, text will appear smaller in native resolutions at 4k than it does in 1080p at the same font size and kerning.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9258" RevisionGUID="6e92b1ed-76f4-4bc8-93b2-1311e4d4859e" CreationDate="2018-05-23T15:16:44.127" UserId="9335" Text="Hi I am searching for development board, which cost less than 150$ and also supports VP9 encoding decoding at 720p30fps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any development board available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30119" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9258" RevisionGUID="6e92b1ed-76f4-4bc8-93b2-1311e4d4859e" CreationDate="2018-05-23T15:16:44.127" UserId="9335" Text="Is there any low cost development board available which supports VP9 encoder at 720p30fps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30120" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9258" RevisionGUID="6e92b1ed-76f4-4bc8-93b2-1311e4d4859e" CreationDate="2018-05-23T15:16:44.127" UserId="9335" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9259" RevisionGUID="8189c28b-76ec-47cc-a75c-c0003f06b656" CreationDate="2018-05-23T16:13:35.533" UserId="9336" Text="I am a software developer, recently moved to a new office with huge windows. There is so much sunlight that the regular monitor I have been provided with looks dark at 100% brightness. Is there a good 27' monitor with brightness similar to macbookpro retina, for example? It will be used with a mac mini." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30122" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9259" RevisionGUID="8189c28b-76ec-47cc-a75c-c0003f06b656" CreationDate="2018-05-23T16:13:35.533" UserId="9336" Text="Bright monitor for office with intense ambient sunlight" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30123" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9259" RevisionGUID="8189c28b-76ec-47cc-a75c-c0003f06b656" CreationDate="2018-05-23T16:13:35.533" UserId="9336" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30124" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="99c87c83-8127-4d7c-af96-37656fbb395d" CreationDate="2018-05-23T19:17:06.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30127" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9254" RevisionGUID="a11dfa7b-4496-4958-9580-11eeaccec850" CreationDate="2018-05-23T20:50:33.367" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6475,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;jcam3&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9261" RevisionGUID="755e2210-46d6-4951-bb70-189e9816905d" CreationDate="2018-05-23T21:28:29.413" UserId="7849" Text=" I find on Google about the motherboard for I3 8100 + GTX 1060 but it keep saying about Asus - Prime Z370-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard, which is a near high-end motherboard at $120 for Intel Core I7 which is for my budget build, it is unacceptable. So any alternative solutions for this motherboard ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30129" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9261" RevisionGUID="755e2210-46d6-4951-bb70-189e9816905d" CreationDate="2018-05-23T21:28:29.413" UserId="7849" Text="What is a perfect motherboard for my budget build I3 8100 + GTX 1050 TI 4 GB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30130" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9261" RevisionGUID="755e2210-46d6-4951-bb70-189e9816905d" CreationDate="2018-05-23T21:28:29.413" UserId="7849" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9262" RevisionGUID="a03cbd2f-2c01-4c4d-99b7-6dc45487f872" CreationDate="2018-05-24T03:38:34.967" UserId="9339" Text="I would recommend, &#xA;[MSI H110M Gaming][1][1]: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16813130918&#xA;&#xA;Since you are on a budget and the fact that your only using a 1050 ti this motherboard should just do the job, it only comes in at around $60." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9265" RevisionGUID="d50c2123-c8ac-4f06-a9f8-c73110f251d7" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:13:53.440" UserId="9341" Text="I am searching for a commercial off the shelf device, or list of devices, or general name of the appliance, that perform(s) the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has at least two radios that can be configured such that one is a wireless client to a a &quot;WAN&quot; network, and the other is an access point to a private network that the router manages (DHCP, gateway, etc.)&#xD;&#xA; - At least one physical ethernet port on the private network as the wireless access point.&#xD;&#xA; - Router provides NAT internet access for the private network (WAP and physical ethernet clients) to the wireless &quot;WAN&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; - Of course, WAP and physical ethernet clients on the private network can communicate with each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am able to do this with DD-WRT rather effortlessly, but as DD-WRT is not considered robust, it does not satisfy the requirements I've been handed (and of course there is the issue with robustness of SOHO products in general). I'm afraid I can't go into detail about why the above setup is necessary, suffice it to say that after long discussions it is decidedly the only setup that will work in our situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although this may be a niche use case, it does seem like such a device should have a market and so not be difficult to find, but my google capabilities appear to have failed me here." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30140" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9265" RevisionGUID="d50c2123-c8ac-4f06-a9f8-c73110f251d7" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:13:53.440" UserId="9341" Text="COTS router as both wireless client and access point and separate SSIDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30141" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9265" RevisionGUID="d50c2123-c8ac-4f06-a9f8-c73110f251d7" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:13:53.440" UserId="9341" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8505" RevisionGUID="d5136659-4426-4bfa-a732-8c05e502eb57" CreationDate="2018-05-24T19:24:02.843" UserId="7044" Comment="typo .. 30cm -&gt; 3cm" Text="I have no specific brand to recommend, but I have a comment on laptop component failure..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the main causes of laptop death is the eventual failure of the video cable that passes from the lower case body into the upper lid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In most laptops this is a tiny cable approximately 1-2mm in diameter with about 20 individual hair-sized conductors crammed inside it, that passes through the middle of one of the hinges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every time you open or close the lid, you axially twist these conductors, and after twisting and untwisting about 300-500 times they are going break. The screen will now intermittently flicker on and off as the broken wires occasionally touch or separate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want long life for a laptop, you will seek out this replacement video hinge cable when the laptop is new and buy about four of them for future use, to be installed every 3 years or so, when the cable wears out and the tiny wires break.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Getting ahold of this cable as a spare part may be rather difficult, as it may not be available unless you directly contact an authorized warranty repair center that can obtain these repair parts direct from the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried in the past to do this with some of the higher end gaming laptops as these have potential future lifespans measured in decades, and the failure to be able to buy video hinge cable spares ended my interest in that gaming laptop brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the laptop is 4+ years old and out of production you will definitely not find this part new anywhere because it is custom for every laptop and there is no generic-fit replacement. But perhaps you might find it used, with some 200 flexes already in it, and a short remaining life ahead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is an exception to this which I saw in the IBM Thinkpad z60M laptop, where instead of the tiny hairlike hidden-hinge cable, IBM instead used a flat flexible yellow-orange ribbon cable about 3 cm wide, from the body to the lid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This ribbon cable is exceptionally durable, and the laptops reached 10+ years of age with none of the display ribbon cables ever failing to my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not know if this flat orange ribbon video cable design has been carried forward to any of the Lenovo brand Thinkpads." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30147" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="2d3a972d-23d6-48f4-a4cd-597f268b0dec" CreationDate="2018-05-24T23:19:39.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30148" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="e8885207-bde4-441d-89e0-487128a6f4f7" CreationDate="2018-05-25T01:19:45.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30152" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="ba239507-961b-44e7-af75-b660a3a46ac9" CreationDate="2018-05-25T14:03:55.597" UserId="9061" Comment="added 224 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux, and I would like to put a SSD Drive as my main Disk Drive (replacing the current HDD). Is it possible? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideia is to speed the computer, by placing the OS and applications in the SSD. So buying a modern SSD Drive (SATA) for the time being, using some type of connector/adapter (like IDE/PATA to SATA), and then latter make an upgrade (motherboard, cpu, ram) or transfer this drive to another computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the Hardware being used :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible with this old motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30153" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="ba239507-961b-44e7-af75-b660a3a46ac9" CreationDate="2018-05-25T14:03:55.597" UserId="9061" Comment="added 224 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9268" RevisionGUID="451b688c-b970-494d-b228-edb16883b2f6" CreationDate="2018-05-25T15:56:48.173" UserId="9350" Text="I currently have a laptop and a desktop PC, one for work, one for games, and I wish to use the same peripherals for both using TB3 somehow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal solution would be to have a Thunderbolt 3 splitter/switch but I couldn't seem to find a reasonably priced option or anything at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently purchased a BenQ PD2710QC, which has a Thunderbolt 3 dock built into it. It works beautifully with my laptop and peripherals but only has one TB3 input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I install a Thunderbolt 3 PCI-E card (like this [Gigabyte Alpine Ridge Dual Thunderbolt 3 Type C PCI Card][1]) in my desktop, plug one port in from my laptop and plug the other into the BenQ PD2710QC - could it work? Or is there a better way to approach this, besides changing cables every time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.mwave.com.au/product/gigabyte-alpine-ridge-dual-thunderbolt-3-usb-typec-pci-card-ac03973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30155" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9268" RevisionGUID="451b688c-b970-494d-b228-edb16883b2f6" CreationDate="2018-05-25T15:56:48.173" UserId="9350" Text="Laptop to Desktop PCI-E passthrough Thunderbolt 3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30156" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9268" RevisionGUID="451b688c-b970-494d-b228-edb16883b2f6" CreationDate="2018-05-25T15:56:48.173" UserId="9350" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9269" RevisionGUID="bc769e1b-da72-4de5-b559-60e41d79d068" CreationDate="2018-05-25T17:44:44.053" UserId="7199" Text="So if I understand what you are asking you want to use the same keyboard, mouse, and screen on both&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So there is this cool gadget called a KVM, this allows you to switch between your different devices, but you can't use your desktop and laptop at the same time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But there is a software solution, something I use is synergy https://symless.com/synergy&#xD;&#xA;I set my laptop right next to my desktop monitor and use the same keyboard and mouse on both at the same time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30164" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="7987a1ba-edb2-4762-9163-cf6be81a7225" CreationDate="2018-05-26T06:37:26.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9271" RevisionGUID="fc44a636-7c6d-4352-a2c3-a33ddbe1143c" CreationDate="2018-05-26T07:49:11.533" UserId="790" Text="I am kind of lost when it comes to the &quot;Pro&quot; segment of system building, and I have trouble choosing a suitable platform, specially when everytime I search for something I get bombarded with gaming buzzwords and gaming &quot;gear&quot; everywhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The required configuration I have in mind includes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3xNVMe SSDs vía a PCIe x16 card (like the ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 card), but I want to use the drives individually, not in RAID&#xD;&#xA; - A regular SATA III spinning hard drive&#xD;&#xA; - An x16 graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Extended configuration (supporting this isn't a must, but it would be great for the long run):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - An USB 3.1 PCIe card&#xD;&#xA; - A 10Gbit ethernet card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care much about memory, so anything that supports DDR4 at 2400 is ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What Ryzen CPU+mobo would support such configuration? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main drive is Linux and I plan to use Windows via KVM+Qemu with PCI passthrough, so anything that helps virtualization (VT-d/x) is also welcome, if that matters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30166" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9271" RevisionGUID="fc44a636-7c6d-4352-a2c3-a33ddbe1143c" CreationDate="2018-05-26T07:49:11.533" UserId="790" Text="Ryzen-based platform for productivity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30167" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9271" RevisionGUID="fc44a636-7c6d-4352-a2c3-a33ddbe1143c" CreationDate="2018-05-26T07:49:11.533" UserId="790" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9272" RevisionGUID="f357d9c0-6045-4df9-ae42-9976c30b80e1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T10:06:00.363" UserId="9351" Text="I realise this may not be the correct SE Site for the question, so if anyone could point me towards the correct one that would be helpful, but this seemed appropriate!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a pair of noise blocking earphones. I work in a loud office environment, and really struggle to focus with any sort of noise. I'm not looking for suggestions on how to get around this in any other way however - I'm working on that! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping to get a pair of earplugs/earphones/headphones that will block out as much sound as possible. Due to the environment, I suspect noise-cancelling won't be an awful lot of use however. I would be hoping to pay under £100, but suggestions at different pricing points would be helpful if anyone has any recommendations that they can personally vouch for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30169" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9272" RevisionGUID="f357d9c0-6045-4df9-ae42-9976c30b80e1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T10:06:00.363" UserId="9351" Text="Noise-blocking earplugs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30170" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9272" RevisionGUID="f357d9c0-6045-4df9-ae42-9976c30b80e1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T10:06:00.363" UserId="9351" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30171" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="4b5e5445-14ef-45a9-98fc-92541282b43a" CreationDate="2018-05-26T11:37:27.663" UserId="-1" Comment="71" />
  <row Id="30172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="286d918e-2696-44f6-bc82-308ed9012675" CreationDate="2018-05-26T12:48:20.010" UserId="9296" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="i'm setting up a computer with an LGA1151 cpu socket, and i'm looking for the cpu that would use the least amount of electricity for this motherboard. the cpu will not be stressed in the slightest, and does not need to be fast. i already have a computer doing the same tasks, running on a 2-core 35W TDP i3-7300T with hyperthreading disabled, and cpu frequency locked to 800MHz, and htop reports the cpu usage as being roughly &quot;5-8% per core&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;going by TDP, it seems the 25W TDP `Intel Xeon E3-1235L V5` is my best bet, but i don't know if TDP is a good indicator, because that's &quot;power consumption during high-intensity workloads&quot;, which is not what i'll be using it for.. suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(also i'm confused at how the 4-core Xeon can use less power than all the 2-core / 1-core alternatives, going by TDP, but i guess that should be a separate question)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="8a342063-8165-4229-9f72-93525bd5ef35" CreationDate="2018-05-26T16:18:12.587" UserId="3832" Text="What are options for a laptop with a screen less then 12 inches that runs Windows 10? I'm looking for something ultra portable to do basic programming using a text editor and WSL. I'm hoping for at least 4 gigs of ram and a 128 gig ssd. Screen quality is not an issue since I'm blind. I'd rather pay less and not get a 4k screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="8a342063-8165-4229-9f72-93525bd5ef35" CreationDate="2018-05-26T16:18:12.587" UserId="3832" Text="What are options for a Windows laptop with a screen less then 12 inches for basic programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="8a342063-8165-4229-9f72-93525bd5ef35" CreationDate="2018-05-26T16:18:12.587" UserId="3832" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30176" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9274" RevisionGUID="c30a2309-2ae4-4736-9386-bc281a9d1256" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:49:54.130" UserId="4933" Text="I understand that I am looking for the best of many worlds here, but if I can satisfy these criteria it would be a huge help to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently [bought a CPU cooler to replace](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9163/budget-cooler-to-replace-stock-intel-one) the stock Intel one that came with my CPU (E97379-001 on an i3-2100). The cooler needed to be low profile, as good at cooling my i3 as the stock cooler, quieter than it, and also pretty cheap as I'm on a low income. The [Arctic Freezer 11 LP](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-11-LP-Pre-applied/dp/B0037AKXKM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525996734&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler+low+profile) was recommended in that thread and it seemed like the best fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with the Intel E97379-001 stock cooler was that while it was usually relatively quiet at idle, it started to get loud at higher loads. After having received and installed the Arctic Freezer 11 LP, I've run into the opposite problem: its speed and sound is always consistently at the same sound level, no matter what the load seems to be, and that happens to be about as loud and about as annoying as the stock Intel one at full load.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've also noticed that when I place my hand around the vicinity of the fan, I can't feel much air being moved around it like I could with the Intel cooler. This is despite the cooler being connected to the PWM pin *and* the fact that I've made sure it's properly installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here I am,  looking for a quieter, low profile alternative to the Arctic Freezer 11 Low Profile at roughly the same price (ideally less than £20, but failing that, feel free to recommend alternatives and I'll select the cheapest). As always, I'm grateful to anyone who knows their way around the world of PC coolers and can help with this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30177" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9274" RevisionGUID="c30a2309-2ae4-4736-9386-bc281a9d1256" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:49:54.130" UserId="4933" Text="Quiet, cheap and effective low-profile cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30178" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9274" RevisionGUID="c30a2309-2ae4-4736-9386-bc281a9d1256" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:49:54.130" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="edb395d1-74cc-4032-8962-d53acd0699bb" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:58:09.687" UserId="9296" Text="i'm looking for a 4G router that would provide low ping times. any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i don't care about the price, size, portability, or looks, that's irrelevant. any 4G router that a can provide a great connection, in terms of low ping? (total throughput is not even important, as long as it's not terrible, it's only ping reduction i'm aiming for)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="edb395d1-74cc-4032-8962-d53acd0699bb" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:58:09.687" UserId="9296" Text="4G router with low ping?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="edb395d1-74cc-4032-8962-d53acd0699bb" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:58:09.687" UserId="9296" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30182" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9274" RevisionGUID="1b81028d-6101-4c39-a561-55c75d6f0c18" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:58:19.400" UserId="4933" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="I understand that I am looking for the best of many worlds here, but if I can satisfy these criteria it would be a huge help to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recently [bought a CPU cooler to replace](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9163/budget-cooler-to-replace-stock-intel-one) the stock Intel one that came with my CPU (E97379-001 on an i3-2100). The cooler needed to be low profile, as good at cooling my i3 as the stock cooler, quieter than it, and also pretty cheap as I'm on a low income. The [Arctic Freezer 11 LP](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-11-LP-Pre-applied/dp/B0037AKXKM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525996734&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler+low+profile) was recommended in that thread and it seemed like the best fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with the Intel E97379-001 stock cooler was that while it was usually relatively quiet at idle, it started to get loud at higher loads. After having received and installed the Arctic Freezer 11 LP, I've run into the opposite problem: its speed and sound is always consistently at the same sound level, no matter what the load seems to be, and that happens to be about as loud and about as annoying as the stock Intel one at full load.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've also noticed that when I place my hand around the vicinity of the fan, I can't feel much air being moved around it like I could with the Intel cooler. This is despite the cooler being connected to the PWM pin *and* the fact that I've made sure it's properly installed. The [review and tests here](https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/arctic-cooling-freezer-11-lp-cpu-cooler-review/6/) *seem* to make sense of this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here I am,  looking for a quieter, low profile alternative to the Arctic Freezer 11 Low Profile at roughly the same price (ideally less than £20, but failing that, feel free to recommend alternatives and I'll select the cheapest). As always, I'm grateful to anyone who knows their way around the world of PC coolers and can help with this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30183" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="ad2148bc-6114-4d6e-b79c-954bfe898245" CreationDate="2018-05-26T20:07:25.603" UserId="9296" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9277" RevisionGUID="98ce292b-fedc-42dc-93fc-8012d73fae1d" CreationDate="2018-05-27T08:27:44.470" UserId="9248" Text="If you're willing to try for Intel, [Eurocom][1], [Hidevolution][2], and a few others have laptops with a desktop i7-8700k, which should give you 12 threads on its 6 cores, and 64 GB of DDR4 RAM (dual channel, naturally). **These would not have a CD or DVD drive**&amp;mdash;you'd need to get an external one, but with all those ports you'd have no trouble connecting it. You can get these as small as 15.6 inches. They should come in under $3000 with a 256 GB SSD and a 1 TB HDD, an 8700k, and 64 GB of RAM, and you'll get 1060 GPU in the bargain. There are also some new workstations with similar capabilities, but they will be pricy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any of the options I suggested will have more than enough space for 1 TB of storage. In point of fact, there are 4 TB SSDs now, so you really can get more storage than you need as long as you have a single SATA slot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With any of these Clevo resellers, I'd strongly recommend that you ask them to check carefully for backlight bleed before shipping. It'll save you the trouble of loosening the display screws yourself. Also, they'll be loud, and will have low battery life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical drive is really a difficult thing to find in conjunction with a six core or greater CPU. If you filter by &quot;64 GB  RAM or more&quot; and &quot;optical drive&quot; on Amazon, you don't find [many devices.][3] And most of those don't have an optical drive in any case. Even most workstations are moving away from internal optical drives. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.eurocom.com/ec/specs(431)EUROCOM_SkyX4C&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hidevolution.com/evoc-clevo-p750tm1-g-custom-built-gaming-laptop.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/s/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_sixteen__0?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A13580787011%2Cp_n_feature_sixteen_browse-bin%3A3093652011&amp;bbn=565108&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527409146&amp;rnid=3093651011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9278" RevisionGUID="a8fe66cb-98e3-4ada-aa1f-345759ab7e20" CreationDate="2018-05-27T11:48:28.667" UserId="9281" Text="Yes, there is such a remote. There are probably quite a few of them but the one I tried is the [URC 6440][1]. With the help of the information in the http://www.hifi-remote.com/ (especially the [forums][2]), it's really easy to program with any OS: it mounts as a USB drive, and using [Remote Master][3] it's just a matter of copying a file with the configuration. Specifically, [this][4] the configuration file I just created for the NAD D 3020 (without using the original remote at all), and it works like a charm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.oneforall.com/urc6440-simple-4.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://controlremote.sourceforge.net/Readme.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&amp;file_id=25227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9254" RevisionGUID="358a9944-6072-4d37-ad2e-db38d3a0a93e" CreationDate="2018-05-27T12:08:00.393" UserId="9330" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="I would like to get a laptop, preferably with GTX 1080, install Linux on it and run deep learning frameworks such as Caffe or TensorFlow. These are all the requirements regarding the hardware. I have heard, though, that some laptops can have problems with drivers or there can be some incompatibility issues with the GPU under Linux. Is there anybody who made it work on their laptop and could make a recommendation on which laptop the setup worked?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9279" RevisionGUID="20f25cd1-04d9-4918-a005-f4f86eafa503" CreationDate="2018-05-27T17:30:20.580" UserId="9248" Text="You have a lot of options with those specifications. I'll assume that you're looking for minimum weight and maximum battery life. A two-in-one is probably your best bet for that&amp;mdash;that is, tablet plus laptop configuration. Or a tablet with a keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You might consider the Surface Pro. It comes with up to 16 GB of RAM (but you can probably configure it with only 4 GB if you want), and it should have a long battery life: Microsoft claims that you can play video for over 13 hours. The current generation is actually 12.3 inches, but it should be much lighter than most laptops. It should have a pretty good processor, too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Four gigabytes of RAM, an i5, and a 128 GB SSD should be about $1000. You are paying a bit for screen quality there, though, which might not be ideal - there are cheaper options with lower-quality screens. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If price plus battery life is your main concern, and you don't care much about performance or having a fairly up-to-date processor, you have much lower-priced options. For example, the [Samsung Galaxy Book][1] is another tablet-computer combo, is  about $630, and has a  10.6 inch screen with 4 GB RAM and a 128 GB SSD. It claims 11 hours of video playback. Or basically any of the ones [here](https://www.amazon.com/s/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_two_brow_2?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Cp_n_size_browse-bin%3A13580786011%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A7817222011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A610553011&amp;bbn=565108&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527442121&amp;rnid=562234011) will be cheaper than the Surface Pro. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Windows-storage-SM-W620NZKAXAR/dp/B06XPM5JX2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527441897&amp;sr=1-4&amp;refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A13580786011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9280" RevisionGUID="eb3e9963-6067-4842-be9a-473dd50ddf39" CreationDate="2018-05-27T19:00:13.347" UserId="9248" Text="##[Dell S2719DM](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V)##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor is 27 inches, 2560 by 1600, and claims a brightness of 600 nits. This beats out even the brightest 500 nit Macbooks, and certainly the more common 350 or 400 nit ones. And it's only $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thin. It only has HDMI ports, but so does the Mac Mini, so no big deal. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30195" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9280" RevisionGUID="ea29364a-13fd-4113-a9cd-8bac9847fcf1" CreationDate="2018-05-27T19:07:37.837" UserId="9248" Comment="edited body" Text="##[Dell S2719DM](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V)##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor is 27 inches, 2560 by 1440, and claims a brightness of 600 nits. This beats out even the brightest 500 nit Macbooks, and certainly the more common 350 or 400 nit ones. And it's only $350.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also fairly thin. It only has HDMI ports, but so does the Mac Mini, so no big deal. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1474" RevisionGUID="7aaf66ff-838b-4223-b541-70acf3c86770" CreationDate="2018-05-27T21:09:35.530" UserId="819" Comment="Fixed broken link" Text="I've had good success with the following card on Mac:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Diamond VC500](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBlBR9s82JU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has Linux support as well according to the link, but I have not tested it. Here are the specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;* Supports NTSC and PAL&#xD;&#xA;* Captures Composite RCA or S-Video input&#xD;&#xA;* 640 x 480 @30FPS NTSC video capture&#xD;&#xA;* 720 x 576 @25FPS PAL video capture&#xD;&#xA;* Included Software: Videoglide for Mac OS, EZGrabber for Windows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 MAC FAQs](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500mac-faqs.html)&#xD;&#xA;* [VC500 Quick Installation Guide](https://www.diamondmm.com/vc500-quick-installation-guide.html)&#xD;&#xA;* [EZGrabber Video Capture Driver](http://www.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php?driverid=1803090)&#xD;&#xA;* [VideoGlide for Mac OSX](http://www.echofx.com/videoglide.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9283" RevisionGUID="45640981-c8e6-4889-af94-7025bb04891d" CreationDate="2018-05-28T12:07:52.610" UserId="9032" Text="I have a ASRock Extreme4 motherboard and would like to add one or two extra fans to my current rig (Carbide Air 740).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I do not know where to plug in the fan, and I'd rather not unlpug another fan to trade ; I'm already using all the chassis slot (3 or 4 of them) &amp; CPU slot obviously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read I can buy &quot;fan connectors&quot;, but I do not know the answer to these questions :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can I use such a device with my motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;- If so, where do I plug it ? Simply on one of the fan connectors and it serves as a &quot;hub&quot; ?&#xD;&#xA;- If so, can you recommend an actual fan connector? I don't need much control, fan will probably run at near high speed at all times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current situation : I'm trying to cool down the HDD rack that is running extremely hot (all disks are above 70 degrees celsius), and what I'm gonna do is add an extra fan behind those disks, pushing hot air outside the case. Btw if you do happen to have a better solution for that specific issue that is also great.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30203" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9283" RevisionGUID="45640981-c8e6-4889-af94-7025bb04891d" CreationDate="2018-05-28T12:07:52.610" UserId="9032" Text="Connect extra fans to an ASRock Extreme4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30204" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9283" RevisionGUID="45640981-c8e6-4889-af94-7025bb04891d" CreationDate="2018-05-28T12:07:52.610" UserId="9032" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9284" RevisionGUID="1299e852-8abc-42c3-8acc-8b9e465e27b7" CreationDate="2018-05-28T19:00:12.453" UserId="9358" Text="I've bought [THIS][1] hard drive for my laptop but didn't notice it as 15mm. I've never seen a laptop that supports a HDD this thick. I've searched in some forums with no success. Is there any recent gaming laptop that fits?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZMUNGR/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1#nav-search-keywords" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30206" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9284" RevisionGUID="1299e852-8abc-42c3-8acc-8b9e465e27b7" CreationDate="2018-05-28T19:00:12.453" UserId="9358" Text="What devices support a 15mm tall 2.5&quot; hdd?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30207" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9284" RevisionGUID="1299e852-8abc-42c3-8acc-8b9e465e27b7" CreationDate="2018-05-28T19:00:12.453" UserId="9358" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30208" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="832748d3-970d-4cfe-8de0-c89d07b0e5c4" CreationDate="2018-05-28T22:46:25.780" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://video.stackexchange.com/questions/24148/does-a-device-like-this-exist" />
  <row Id="30209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="0c8b0f33-bd98-48ef-9270-8f6fd03fce4d" CreationDate="2018-05-27T16:18:00.897" UserId="9361" UserDisplayName="Sam Weaver" Text="I'm looking for a portable device that has jacks (3.5mm would be best but anything works) for a microphone input and speaker output, and then connects via Bluetooth to my phone or computer and appears to it as a Bluetooth headset. Audio played through the &quot;headset&quot; would be sent out out the speaker output on the device and signal sent to the input of the device would be &quot;received&quot; as if coming from the microphone on the &quot;headset.&quot; &#xA;&#xA;**Does a device like this exist? I'm not sure what it'd be called or how to search for something like this.**&#xA;&#xA;This pertains to live media production, if there's a better SE site please advise. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30210" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="0c8b0f33-bd98-48ef-9270-8f6fd03fce4d" CreationDate="2018-05-27T16:18:00.897" UserId="9361" UserDisplayName="Sam Weaver" Text="Does a device like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30211" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="0c8b0f33-bd98-48ef-9270-8f6fd03fce4d" CreationDate="2018-05-27T16:18:00.897" UserId="9361" UserDisplayName="Sam Weaver" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30212" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="6bb3cb59-f374-41c2-bb8d-ca8746593629" CreationDate="2018-05-28T23:57:17.513" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9286" RevisionGUID="98d6f1c0-4b1b-4ef9-975a-881d11fa3fc9" CreationDate="2018-05-29T00:37:47.930" UserId="9360" Text="I have been searching a mechanical keyboard with following features for a very long time. Many major players I checked in the market have some of the features, but none have them all. I figure there must be a manufacturer combines them together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Open&quot; Design. Like Corsaire K70, I want a borderless keyboard for convenient cleaning. A blow of wind should be able to pass through from one end of the keyboard to another.&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ USB/audio passthrough. I have seen similar designs in Razer and Daskeyboard. The former brand offers 1 USB and 1 audio port while the latter offers 2 USB ports. Both are good.&#xD;&#xA; - Tactile switch. I prefer Cherry MX blue. But similar switches are also welcomed. I.e. Razer Green Switch.&#xD;&#xA; - Media keys for volume control and playback.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9286" RevisionGUID="98d6f1c0-4b1b-4ef9-975a-881d11fa3fc9" CreationDate="2018-05-29T00:37:47.930" UserId="9360" Text="Does Such Mechanical Keyboards Exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9286" RevisionGUID="98d6f1c0-4b1b-4ef9-975a-881d11fa3fc9" CreationDate="2018-05-29T00:37:47.930" UserId="9360" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9286" RevisionGUID="09bab6e9-0546-4efb-83e1-8dc6db6e949c" CreationDate="2018-05-29T00:46:27.260" UserId="9360" Comment="added 63 characters in body" Text="I have been searching a mechanical keyboard with following features for a very long time. Many major players I checked in the market have some of the features, but none have them all. I figure there must be a manufacturer combines them together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Open&quot; Design. Like Corsaire K70, I want a borderless keyboard for convenient cleaning. A blow of wind should be able to pass through from one end of the keyboard to another.&#xD;&#xA; - 2+ USB/audio passthrough. I have seen similar designs in Razer and Daskeyboard. The former brand offers 1 USB and 1 audio port while the latter offers 2 USB ports. Both are good.&#xD;&#xA; - Tactile switch. I prefer Cherry MX blue. But similar switches are also welcomed. I.e. Razer Green Switch.&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated Media keys for volume control and playback. No keybindings needed, such as Fn + F12 is not good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30217" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9203" RevisionGUID="9af38e9a-be07-481d-a253-9dad352b1e30" CreationDate="2018-05-29T13:45:19.080" UserId="819" Comment="Added Dual Shock 3 wikihow link" Text="The best option would be to convert a [Dual Shock 3 to work as a PC gamepad](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-PS3-Controller-on-a-PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several by Saitek which meet the main requirements (six face buttons, PlayStation style dual analog, USB):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Saitek P2900](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDO2SO/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Saitek P2600](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL7034/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 3. [Saitek P2500](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000075B5V/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 4. [Saitek P990](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL703E/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A couple from Logitech:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [Logitech Wingman RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004VUGN/)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Logitech Wingman Cordless&#xD;&#xA;    RumblePad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005USQA/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And two others:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Buffalo BSGP1601BK](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031UCGLW/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Sabrent USB-GAMEPAD](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEWTSWU/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last two have more of the nice-to-have features than the Saitek or Logitech choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [How to Use a PS3 Controller on a PC: 11 Steps - wikiHow](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-PS3-Controller-on-a-PC)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30218" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="82e2d320-bf0d-443e-bbe7-856510e59f59" CreationDate="2018-05-29T14:07:11.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30219" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="a8dd3c35-b03f-4b0a-b904-0be17052c278" CreationDate="2018-05-29T15:07:11.223" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9287" RevisionGUID="17b12ee4-9ecd-4ef2-8186-dee2f5f96249" CreationDate="2018-05-29T15:56:20.257" UserId="9084" Text="I wouldn't use a PWM fan (plugs into motherboard) for this.  You're cooling HDDs and the thermostats on the motherboard won't be very good at detecting HDD temps, so you'll probably want the fan to run at maximum speed.  Instead, get fans that use your Power Supply Unit's molex connectors (the four-pin connectors that jiggle in their plug if you move the wires).  This pulls the motherboard completely out of the equation.  If your PSU is modular, one of the module cables should have these plugs on it.  Otherwise, they will be part of the wire bundle that has the other cables, or you can use a SATA -&gt; 4-pin power adapter  (about 3 bucks on Amazon). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for physical mounting, you'll want to mount to the front, back, or sides of the HDD.  If there is a fan already directly in front of the HDD pulling air in, then a second fan won't help much unless the case is particularly large.  If not, that's where I'd put the fan, and have it blow across the drives and into the airflow that drags air out of the top and back of the case. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9288" RevisionGUID="66bfdaa5-dd22-45b9-83ce-e6985df357a6" CreationDate="2018-05-29T15:59:17.290" UserId="819" Text="Logitech has a couple of close alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Logitech Wingman RumblePad](https://www.ebay.com/p/Logitech-WingMan-Rumblepad-963233-0403-Gamepad/141274988)&#xD;&#xA;* [Logitech Wingman RumblePad 2](https://www.ebay.com/p/Logitech-RumblePad-2-963326-0914-Gamepad/141191514)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30224" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9289" RevisionGUID="04a397c1-d8e4-4144-a749-eacafe760404" CreationDate="2018-05-29T18:49:58.797" UserId="819" Text="Here is the one of the few that is not discontinued:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Irdroid USB IrDA Transceiver](https://irdroid.eu/product/irdroid-usb-irda-transceiver/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Linux - IrDA USB Dongle Howto](http://www.kynesthesy.org/wiki/MoschipIrDA/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LIRC - Linux Infrared Remote Control](http://www.lirc.org/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30225" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="1b33df2b-d6ef-4eed-a674-9e52e83cc40a" CreationDate="2018-05-29T19:07:16.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9290" RevisionGUID="105a655a-f930-40dc-9a0b-5363a37e890a" CreationDate="2018-05-29T21:05:53.373" UserId="819" Text="Here is an external USB CD drive within the price range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [2017 2016 Ultra Thin External USB 2.0 CD ROM CD Driver CD/DVD Optical Driver Portable CD Driver For PC Laptop-in Optical Drives from Computer &amp; Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Ultra-Thin-External-USB-2-0-CD-ROM-CD-Driver-CD-DVD-Optical-Driver-Portable/32653762903.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30227" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="d850ce61-a1a6-4607-84fc-830a6e17e54b" CreationDate="2018-05-29T22:32:29.250" UserId="9361" Comment="72" />
  <row Id="30228" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="82a3b6ec-95ff-4062-8fa4-7125e9d5a03f" CreationDate="2018-05-29T23:07:16.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30229" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="3ef5d378-16c4-4e83-97b3-382f4404edb3" CreationDate="2018-05-30T00:07:17.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9291" RevisionGUID="c97c9334-9801-4c13-90a6-99cffa55a1a1" CreationDate="2018-05-30T03:09:49.103" UserId="5294" Text="I have a Mac Pro with two amd firepro d700 GPUs. Can I pull one of those GPUs out and stick it right into a Windows pc? Or did AMD make these GPUs specifically for Apple only?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KsPD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9291" RevisionGUID="c97c9334-9801-4c13-90a6-99cffa55a1a1" CreationDate="2018-05-30T03:09:49.103" UserId="5294" Text="Can I put AMD firepro d700 GPU into a Windows PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9291" RevisionGUID="c97c9334-9801-4c13-90a6-99cffa55a1a1" CreationDate="2018-05-30T03:09:49.103" UserId="5294" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9290" RevisionGUID="a6d943b7-d5ff-4c26-be81-7f41210a08e8" CreationDate="2018-05-30T05:52:23.147" UserId="819" Comment="Added LG DVD Rewriter" Text="Here are a couple of external USB CD drives within the price range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [2017 2016 Ultra Thin External USB 2.0 CD ROM CD Driver CD/DVD Optical Driver Portable CD Driver For PC Laptop-in Optical Drives from Computer &amp; Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Ultra-Thin-External-USB-2-0-CD-ROM-CD-Driver-CD-DVD-Optical-Driver-Portable/32653762903.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG Super Multi Portable DVD Rewriter with M-Disc 328005 - Micro Center](http://www.microcenter.com/product/485814/Super_Multi_Portable_DVD_Rewriter_with_M-Disc)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9292" RevisionGUID="cf2f14ee-a06b-48a5-8112-282e5ac7baa9" CreationDate="2018-05-30T14:02:32.320" UserId="9084" Text="These style machines (as pictured) are made with proprietary connections and components.   The problem you'd have, even if you found a way to adapt the connection to a standard PCI-E slot, is that the drivers for the non-reference circuit board that chip is on do not exist for Windows. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering that these are GPUs on part with a modern $200-250 card like the GTX 1050 or 1060, I'd save yourself the heartache of wrecking your tech and just get a new card for the PC. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9293" RevisionGUID="dadb8130-50bd-4613-82ec-b46d7cf328e8" CreationDate="2018-05-30T20:06:24.210" UserId="7938" Text="I may have this wrong, but the following might be close to what you want.  [PLUB: Don't plug in, PLUB in!][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a tiny Bluetooth receiver that connects to wired headphones or earphones.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Description from the KS website: &quot;Make wired headphones wireless! PLUB is the most affordable, compact and simplest-to-use Bluetooth receiver.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The KS campaign is finished and these devices are available from a number of sources.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this isn't exactly what you want, it might be worth contacting the creators of this project to see if they can create what you are looking for.  That's the main reason for including the link to the KS campaign page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/864001667/plub-dont-plug-in-plub-in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30236" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9294" RevisionGUID="1fd4e4e4-66ed-4eb9-b877-c16fc812646c" CreationDate="2018-05-30T20:19:44.723" UserId="7938" Text="Tons of Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer mice available on eBay.  I currently use the 3.0 version but others are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really like the Intellimouse mice, perhaps stocking up with a lifetime supply might be wise.  I have several of them myself for this very reason.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also be aware that replacing the micro-switches (when they go noisy or intermittent) is quite easy if you are handy with taking stuff apart and with soldering small traces. I've never yet had the actual electronics fail but have replaced many switches and cables over the years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current price the the Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 on eBay is about US $30." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30237" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="8183d7f0-a211-4472-9d6c-bc2f47407cb8" CreationDate="2018-05-30T20:22:53.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9295" RevisionGUID="997c3c13-4de7-40a5-8cc7-a3da047a5b0f" CreationDate="2018-05-31T01:51:46.913" UserId="9363" Text="As the title says, &quot;how much toner is wasted on every print?&quot;. If you've ever had a laser printer, you know that either each cartridge has a waste toner reservoir or a common reservoir is on the drum cartridge/assembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know if there's a way to say how much toner is dropped into the waste reservoir.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example: if I only print a line, does the printer dispense the entire sheet/page size of toner?.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.," ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30239" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9295" RevisionGUID="997c3c13-4de7-40a5-8cc7-a3da047a5b0f" CreationDate="2018-05-31T01:51:46.913" UserId="9363" Text="how much toner is wasted on every print" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30240" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9295" RevisionGUID="997c3c13-4de7-40a5-8cc7-a3da047a5b0f" CreationDate="2018-05-31T01:51:46.913" UserId="9363" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9296" RevisionGUID="516b9f37-7bda-4808-b9ea-d293addd1d69" CreationDate="2018-05-31T07:26:11.920" UserId="9268" Text="I'm looking for the dual wan wifi router. The price is supposed to be ~100$. I'm using Asus RT-AC66U, but I'm somehow unlucky with Asus routers as the first one was just loosing wifi connectivity and this one is getting very hot + loosing connectivity time to time. Wifi signal is supposed to be strong enough (RT-AC66U wifi strength is good)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30242" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9296" RevisionGUID="516b9f37-7bda-4808-b9ea-d293addd1d69" CreationDate="2018-05-31T07:26:11.920" UserId="9268" Text="Looking for dual-wan wifi router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30243" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9296" RevisionGUID="516b9f37-7bda-4808-b9ea-d293addd1d69" CreationDate="2018-05-31T07:26:11.920" UserId="9268" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9297" RevisionGUID="56ee5e1b-743a-49c0-8a4d-a6874bf4124f" CreationDate="2018-05-31T11:19:36.573" UserId="9084" Text="Any wireless router which has both a 2.4ghz band and a 5ghz band is capable of this, so long as the router firmware permits these to run on two separate SSIDs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know your pain with ASUS; I have a similar router from them and I now get drops, strange behavior, and my Steam Link has tons of issues with it, even though it's directly beneath the router and only has one uninsulated ceiling between.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I haven't replaced mine yet due to expense, I recommend Ubiquiti (my current router) to handle your routing.  My ASUS is now just a dumb wireless AP, which helped somewhat but didn't resolve all of the problems.  Depending on space, you may want to look into mesh wireless, but as an immediate replacement, I would probably get a Ubiquiti access point to pair with the recommended router. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9298" RevisionGUID="00973e17-456d-479b-b7c3-3843b09fa591" CreationDate="2018-05-31T11:24:58.143" UserId="9084" Text="This is dependent on brand and design, so there's not a universal, fixed answer.   On modern toner-based printers, [the average is around 13% of the toner being wasted.][1]  Earlier or lousy models can go up to 25%.  While it's technologically possible to route the wasted toner from the waste sump back to the print toner, this changes the chemical composition of the toner to have less fusible material, lowering the quality of the print.  It is not in the interest of any printer company to overcome this issue, as the margin on toner is very high, as is demand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9246" RevisionGUID="793ee1b2-33ec-418e-a603-d403c6096d63" CreationDate="2018-05-31T16:11:31.250" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 357 characters in body" Text="A true 100W USB-C dedicated charger that has no other function (no other ports stealing the power, all 100W is in the one USB-C, and not a docking station). It is the Wacom MobileStudio Pro charger:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://buywacom.com.au/products/accessories/cables-and-power/power-adapter-for-mobilestudio-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure yet, but it should have the RCM certification for use in Australia. A company that size would be daft not to do it. Also, unfortunately the cord is not detachable. Laptop manufacturers who make these chargers tend to hold on to what they are used of, which is laptop chargers with hardwired cords. This means the cord cannot be replaced if damaged, it cannot be swapped for cables of different lengths, and if anybody actually cares, it would make it impossible to fast charge an iPad with the USB-C to Lightning cable (the only way to charge at full rate right now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for multiple ports, there are ones with 8x 60W USB-C PD ports. Also ones with six and four, plus a cabinet with 20x PD ports (up to 60W each, but shared with 120V per bank and 4 banks for total of 480W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-chargers&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/news/new-usb-c-power-delivery-products-coolgear.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are an American place so this information is practically useless. But it is still promising that we might start to see stuff like this from reputable sources. They will likely lack regulatory certification, and they all appear to have massive separate DC power supplies, so they are not at all portable. It will be the wrong AC voltage, and might not support dual-voltage. There is no guarantee the power supplies are standard in any way to replace them with suitable ones. For use behind an office desk or kitchen bench, in America, perhaps they would work. If the power bricks that supply them use IEC appliance plugs, and support dual voltage for 240V, then you could swap the cord out for one from another country. But if it is not certified, if you import it, you become liable if it hurts anybody, and also if you get caught selling it, you can get slugged with massive fines." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30258" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="7451b935-7cf8-4846-a51f-9315015321a9" CreationDate="2018-05-31T21:27:03.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30261" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="72d28257-9583-406c-bfd4-1aa5436cca21" CreationDate="2018-05-31T22:27:11.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30262" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9291" RevisionGUID="8d5e29b1-790b-45c0-968d-9d3d583c944f" CreationDate="2018-05-31T22:30:17.107" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30263" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="7b3e26be-41b8-4813-9fb8-14b5bd2fe1c4" CreationDate="2018-06-01T01:34:41.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9289" RevisionGUID="d35b7478-7294-4024-98d2-c56e3bc6c3c9" CreationDate="2018-06-01T07:53:50.827" UserId="819" Comment="Added reference" Text="Here is the one of the few that is not discontinued:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Irdroid USB IrDA Transceiver](https://irdroid.eu/product/irdroid-usb-irda-transceiver/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Linux - IrDA USB Dongle Howto](http://www.kynesthesy.org/wiki/MoschipIrDA/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LIRC - Linux Infrared Remote Control](http://www.lirc.org/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Ftdi Usb Ir Transmitter And Receiver Ft232r Usb Rs232 Irda Transceiver - Buy Ftdi Usb Ir Transmitter And Receiver,Usb Irda Serial Adapter,Ftdi Irda Transceiver Product on Alibaba.com](https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/FTDI-USB-IR-transmitter-and-receiver_60685753061.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30266" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="3704d64e-ed9d-42ff-b5ce-468de824db48" CreationDate="2018-06-01T09:35:21.980" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30267" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="d39c0ae9-ba20-49b4-89d6-e15c21e22184" CreationDate="2018-06-01T11:38:49.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30272" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9283" RevisionGUID="4fbe65cf-2d3a-43ad-b98d-19055dcc3214" CreationDate="2018-06-01T17:53:53.827" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30273" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9295" RevisionGUID="03cdaac0-4841-4db1-a7e7-0fad8be17e54" CreationDate="2018-06-01T17:54:26.583" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30277" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="a8c979bd-c293-44b4-b9ec-ae2fedc5a740" CreationDate="2018-06-01T22:57:11.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30278" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="8ad55a02-1d5c-4b16-86f7-b3a24ad3ebe7" CreationDate="2018-06-01T23:57:11.810" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30281" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="2c16aa77-e454-4984-b9be-c9159073e837" CreationDate="2018-06-02T06:57:27.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30285" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="3bdb8932-9fde-49e2-b1b1-81d42c983bda" CreationDate="2018-06-02T09:58:56.817" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9246" RevisionGUID="2f09abf4-7d63-4ff4-8a4a-cf1148d42371" CreationDate="2018-06-02T12:47:57.293" UserId="9323" Comment="Addressed overzealous editor because I cannot respond in comments because apparently respect for newcomers does not exist here." Text="I cannot help a lot. The market is still complete and utter garbage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, a true 100W USB-C dedicated charger that has no other function (no other ports stealing the power, all 100W is in the one USB-C, and not a docking station). It is the Wacom MobileStudio Pro charger:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://buywacom.com.au/products/accessories/cables-and-power/power-adapter-for-mobilestudio-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure yet, but it should have the RCM certification for use in Australia. A company that size would be daft not to do it. Also, unfortunately the cord is not detachable. Laptop manufacturers who make these chargers tend to hold on to what they are used of, which is laptop chargers with hardwired cords. This means the cord cannot be replaced if damaged, it cannot be swapped for cables of different lengths, and if anybody actually cares, it would make it impossible to fast charge an iPad with the USB-C to Lightning cable (the only way to charge at full rate right now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for multiple ports, there are ones with 8x 60W USB-C PD ports. Also ones with six and four, plus a cabinet with 20x PD ports (up to 60W each, but shared with 120V per bank and 4 banks for total of 480W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-chargers&#xD;&#xA;https://www.coolgear.com/news/new-usb-c-power-delivery-products-coolgear.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are an American place so this information is practically useless. But it is still promising that we might start to see stuff like this from reputable sources. They will likely lack regulatory certification, and they all appear to have massive separate DC power supplies, so they are not at all portable. It will be the wrong AC voltage, and might not support dual-voltage. There is no guarantee the power supplies are standard in any way to replace them with suitable ones. For use behind an office desk or kitchen bench, in America, perhaps they would work. If the power bricks that supply them use IEC appliance plugs, and support dual voltage for 240V, then you could swap the cord out for one from another country. But if it is not certified, if you import it, you become liable if it hurts anybody, and also if you get caught selling it, you can get slugged with massive fines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to see is a dual-port one that is compact and portable. If they cannot cram enough power in, the ports could share power (such as 100W from one port or 60W each if both used simultaneously). As long as one port can give a considerable amount of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@Cfinley&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Mind not editing my stuff without my permission? If it breaks the rules, delete it. Some respect for newcomers would be nice, plus afaik technically my comments are my intellectual property.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I probably would have changed it had you asked before barging in and editing it how you saw fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I am not answering for the benefit of the OP. I am answering for the benefit of all the people of the internet who might see this and be interested. The vast majority of the world uses 220-240V and the US and Japan make up most of the developed world using low voltage. Statistically, they are outliers or abnormalities. I cannot take low voltage seriously if it means they cannot use electric kettles, which are an essential item in the modern home. I address 220-240V because products made for those voltages are the closest things to universally standard that exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30287" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9161" RevisionGUID="17fb7eb1-40da-44ac-a36d-7e91ca68836b" CreationDate="2018-06-02T19:59:54.583" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9305" RevisionGUID="e8e59596-b773-4e8a-9709-b2b11edf7d39" CreationDate="2018-06-02T20:32:50.030" UserId="9372" Text="You might want to look at the [FritzBox 7312][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Reasons:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Supported by OpenWrt ([see][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Internal ADSL 2 / ADSL 2+ modem that is also seemingly working when installing OpenWrt (which is rare and I have not seen this explicitly stated with any other [FritzBox supported by OpenWrt][3], but it might still work with others as well).&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &quot;ADSL: should be working, tested @TestBuild (AnnexB ATM &amp; PTM) → default: Annex A not enabled in Kernel&quot; ([see][2])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* *Very* economical, as it is available used for &lt;10 EUR incl. shipment (for example on ebay.de). Happens because older router models like this that came with people's DSL contracts are always very cheap because they are very much in oversupply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, this router has only internal antennas and cannot be extended with external ones because there are no connectors ([see][4]). Also it has only 802.11b/g/n wifi (no dual band with 802.11a) and onlyone 10/100 MBit/s LAN port ([see][1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Alternatives:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I much prefer the [FritzBox 7330][5], which is available for just as little used and eliminates all these disadvantages: [dual-band wifi][6] and [external antenna option][7]. But I can't yet confirm if its internal ADSL 2+ modem is supported by OpenWrt or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fb7312#fb7312&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7312&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://openwrt.org/toh/start?dataflt%5BBrand*~%5D=avm&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://frixtender.de/die-antennenhalterung-ohne-garantieverlust/frixtender-kompatibilitaetsliste/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7330&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fbfonwlan7330#fbfonwlan7330&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://frixtender.de/shop/router-liste/frixtender-set-7390/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30289" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="44dee1b3-848a-4350-b04a-2039e6c835ea" CreationDate="2018-06-02T20:59:54.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9306" RevisionGUID="7519a96f-6999-4929-ac9d-6c7610f973ab" CreationDate="2018-06-02T23:09:58.960" UserId="9372" Text="I recommend the [FritzBox 3370][1] (tech specs [here][2], although in German).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Reasons:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **4 Ethernet ports.** All are Gigabit Ethernet (1000BASE-T).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Great signal coverage with external antennas.** You would have to add external antennas, which is possible without permanent modifications, for example with the [Frixtender][3] products. You can add multiple different ones with different characteristics depending on your local situation. (I did not personally use the Friztender items so far, but added a similar aftermarket antenna to a FritzBox, and it works ….)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Dual band wifi.** In case your wifi signal strength issues are related to having &quot;too many neighboring wifis&quot; with no locally unused, interference free channel left for you, then you can simply switch from the crowded 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz band to the 802.11a 5.0 GHz band. Range (esp. with obstacles) is less due to the higher frequency, but speed at limited range may be way better due to less RF noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Supported by OpenWrt.** [See here][4]. Not sure if OpenWrt supports the router's internal DSL modem as well. It does so for some FritzBoxes like the 7130 ([see][5]). If not, you can probably still attach one via USB or LAN port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Great price: 10 EUR.** This is a product that did cost 180 EUR new, but the manufacturer support ended (no matter when you're on OpenWWrt anyway) and a lot of these are in the market from subsidized DSL contracts. So you can get lots of these for 10 EUR incl. shipment, for example on ebay.de. (I do not expect any problems with used, older FritzBox devices. One of them (model 7050) at my place is in use since 2005.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Method of search.** I selected AVM FritzBox as a brand that is good quality and usually supplies DSL routers that come subsidized with people's broadband contracts in my area (Germany …), as that makes very cheap prices probable. Then I looked through [all FritzBoxes supported by OpenWrt][5] and found the 3370 to be the only dual-band wifi router among them with 4 Ethernet ports and a great price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp; There are similar FritzBoxes that add an analog phone port but only provide 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz wifi and less than 4xGbit Ethernet (FritzBox [7320][6], [7330][7], [7360][8]). (No match. Esp. since now that most domestic phone connections are SIP anyway, I'd rather choose a native SIP phone instead of combining it with a FritzBox.) And again others that are the same but without phone and internal DSL modem (FritzBox [4020][9]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp; Only the relatively new [FritzBox 4040][10] comes close again. Unlike the 3370, it does not have a DSL modem but an Ethernet WAN port – not an issue, as the DSL modem might not be supported by OpenWrt and an external DSL modem can be added to the WAN port when needed anyway. Adding external antennas is also possible ([see][11]). It is however five times more expensive (50 EUR used on ebay.de right now) for basically no extra hardware features over the FritzBox 3370, except for &quot;guest wifi&quot;. So my choice is quite clear :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-3370/overview/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fbwlan3370#fbwlan3370&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://frixtender.de/shop/router-liste/frixtender-set-7390/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.3370#hardware_mods&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://openwrt.org/toh/start?dataflt%5BBrand*~%5D=avm&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/avm_fritz_box_7320&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7330&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7360&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.4020&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fb4040#fb4040&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://frixtender.de/kompatibilitaet-der-fritzbox-4040/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30292" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9306" RevisionGUID="c28deef2-7c55-4911-9c95-0e718812d55b" CreationDate="2018-06-02T23:26:57.193" UserId="9372" Comment="adding about LAN1 as WAN port" Text="I recommend the [FritzBox 3370][1] (tech specs [here][2], although in German).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Reasons:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **4 Ethernet ports.** All are Gigabit Ethernet (1000BASE-T).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Great signal coverage with external antennas.** You would have to add external antennas, which is possible without permanent modifications, for example with the [Frixtender][3] products. You can add multiple different ones with different characteristics depending on your local situation. (I did not personally use the Friztender items so far, but added a similar aftermarket antenna to a FritzBox, and it works ….)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Dual band wifi.** In case your wifi signal strength issues are related to having &quot;too many neighboring wifis&quot; with no locally unused, interference free channel left for you, then you can simply switch from the crowded 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz band to the 802.11a 5.0 GHz band. Range (esp. with obstacles) is less due to the higher frequency, but speed at limited range may be way better due to less RF noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Supported by OpenWrt.** [See here][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Internal DSL modem.** Not too important, but saves one device. However I am not (yet) sure if OpenWrt supports the internal DSL modem. It does so for some FritzBoxes like the 7130 ([see][5]). If not, the LAN1 port of the FritzBox can be used as WAN port and a DSL modem can be connected there ([see][6], in German though).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Great price: 10 EUR.** This is a product that did cost 180 EUR new, but the manufacturer support ended (no matter when you're on OpenWWrt anyway) and a lot of these are in the market from subsidized DSL contracts. So you can get lots of these for 10 EUR incl. shipment, for example on ebay.de. (I do not expect any problems with used, older FritzBox devices. One of them (model 7050) at my place is in use since 2005.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Method of search.** I selected AVM FritzBox as a brand that is good quality and usually supplies DSL routers that come subsidized with people's broadband contracts in my area (Germany …), as that makes very cheap prices probable. Then I looked through [all FritzBoxes supported by OpenWrt][5] and found the 3370 to be the only dual-band wifi router among them with 4 Ethernet ports and a great price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp; There are similar FritzBoxes that add an analog phone port but only provide 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz wifi and less than 4xGbit Ethernet (FritzBox [7320][7], [7330][8], [7360][9]). (No match. Esp. since now that most domestic phone connections are SIP anyway, I'd rather choose a native SIP phone instead of combining it with a FritzBox.) And again others that are the same but without phone and internal DSL modem (FritzBox [4020][10]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&amp;nbsp; Only the relatively new [FritzBox 4040][11] comes close again. Unlike the 3370, it does not have a DSL modem but an Ethernet WAN port – not an issue, as an external DSL modem can be connected to the WAN port when needed. Adding external antennas is also possible ([see][12]). It is however five times more expensive (50 EUR used on ebay.de right now) for basically no extra hardware features over the FritzBox 3370, except for &quot;guest wifi&quot;. So my choice is quite clear :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-3370/overview/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fbwlan3370#fbwlan3370&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://frixtender.de/shop/router-liste/frixtender-set-7390/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.3370#hardware_mods&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://openwrt.org/toh/start?dataflt%5BBrand*~%5D=avm&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-3370/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/265_FRITZ-Box-fuer-Betrieb-mit-anderem-DSL-Modem-einrichten/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/avm_fritz_box_7320&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7330&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.wlan.7360&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://openwrt.org/toh/avm/fritz.box.4020&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.router-faq.de/?id=fbinfo&amp;hwf=fb4040#fb4040&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://frixtender.de/kompatibilitaet-der-fritzbox-4040/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9307" RevisionGUID="2ac3d508-63fe-44aa-a044-4e2dcd5c4633" CreationDate="2018-06-03T00:30:23.663" UserId="9374" Text="I'm looking for a case for my home NAS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking about 6-8 drives; I don't have a specific need for hot swap drives, I just like that design.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I have in mind something like a FreeNAS Mini, but unfortunately buying a pre-assembled one would exceed my current budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![freenas mini][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Few clarifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Why &quot;professionally looking&quot;? I'm going to keep it at home so I can't cringe every time I see it - &quot;well designed&quot; would be more in line with what I'm looking for but that I'm sure many would consider an ugly mess of LEDs and plexiglass as &quot;well designed&quot; [but hey, people could say the same of the black monoliths I love :-) ]&#xD;&#xA; - Compact: I'm not looking for a desktop tower to convert into a NAS, I don't see the point in having a 50-liters beast around when I have no use for GPU/water cooling inside my case.&#xD;&#xA; - Why not a Synology / Qnap NAS? I'm going to run FreeNAS OS on it, but otherwise I really like the look of their NAS.&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally the hot swap drives would have LED that can be used to monitor the disk activity/state (I'm not sure how it would be to actually get it to work with the OS so this would be the least important feature).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOgmc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/efE60.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30294" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9307" RevisionGUID="2ac3d508-63fe-44aa-a044-4e2dcd5c4633" CreationDate="2018-06-03T00:30:23.663" UserId="9374" Text="compact (and aesthetically pleasing/professional looking) NAS case with 6-8 hot swap bays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30295" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9307" RevisionGUID="2ac3d508-63fe-44aa-a044-4e2dcd5c4633" CreationDate="2018-06-03T00:30:23.663" UserId="9374" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30296" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="7ce09106-f192-4d59-9699-ca70150a572b" CreationDate="2018-06-03T02:02:07.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30298" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7711" RevisionGUID="5770577e-8ec1-4f7b-971a-11c1e6a83a49" CreationDate="2018-06-03T09:09:27.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30299" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="1f1f89db-81e5-4733-aec7-dbdd9d0fa0e3" CreationDate="2018-06-03T09:11:52.800" UserId="9061" Comment="added 403 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have an old PC Desktop running Linux, and I would like to put a SSD Drive as my main Disk Drive (replacing the current HDD). Is it possible? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideia is to speed the computer, by placing the OS and applications in the SSD. So buying a modern SSD Drive (SATA and with 120-250GB of store space) for the time being, using some type of connector/adapter (like IDE/PATA to SATA), and then latter make an upgrade (motherboard, cpu, ram) or transfer this drive to another computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the Hardware being used :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because, this is more of a intermediate upgrade, i would like to spent on the connector (or other solution) as little as possible. It as to make sense from a purchase point of view, because, otherwise making the full upgrade should be a better choice (And probably this is the only solution in this case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible with this old motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;If so, is it reasonable making this intermediate upgrade?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30300" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="1f1f89db-81e5-4733-aec7-dbdd9d0fa0e3" CreationDate="2018-06-03T09:11:52.800" UserId="9061" Comment="added 403 characters in body; edited title" Text="Connect and SSD Drive on old MotherBoard ASRock K7S41GX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30301" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="c29ea536-2152-4c6a-9a56-8a7fd24d7ee2" CreationDate="2018-06-03T10:59:54.543" UserId="9375" Text="I have two options before me (in my budget):&#xD;&#xA;Quad core 1.6 GHz vs Dual core 2.5 GHz powered CPU.&#xD;&#xA;I use Microsoft visual studio,pycharm, and few other heavy IDEs for programming.&#xD;&#xA;And I don't know which is the best choice of laptop to buy to work efficiently for me,I mean no system hanging,no blue screens and stuff like that.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in Advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30302" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="c29ea536-2152-4c6a-9a56-8a7fd24d7ee2" CreationDate="2018-06-03T10:59:54.543" UserId="9375" Text="Laptop for programming (About cores in a processor)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30303" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="c29ea536-2152-4c6a-9a56-8a7fd24d7ee2" CreationDate="2018-06-03T10:59:54.543" UserId="9375" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="fbf4b1dc-f7e6-412a-9810-9be2854fe13a" CreationDate="2018-06-03T19:11:50.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30311" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="ba0483b5-3dac-4db4-9cac-70010b67d87a" CreationDate="2018-06-03T20:11:52.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9310" RevisionGUID="e44e6364-6c5c-4a76-b5e3-6357040ce7c8" CreationDate="2018-06-04T07:52:17.450" UserId="9248" Text="Is there currently a 2 TB or greater laptop HDD that can attain 7200 RPM or more? If there's more than one, which of them would be the fastest or most reliable? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30313" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9310" RevisionGUID="e44e6364-6c5c-4a76-b5e3-6357040ce7c8" CreationDate="2018-06-04T07:52:17.450" UserId="9248" Text="Best 2 TB 7200 RPM laptop spinning disk drive?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30314" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9310" RevisionGUID="e44e6364-6c5c-4a76-b5e3-6357040ce7c8" CreationDate="2018-06-04T07:52:17.450" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9311" RevisionGUID="4851d32c-1c84-426b-9fb2-61fccc7a3883" CreationDate="2018-06-04T09:31:58.503" UserId="9380" Text="Just the clock frequency and the number of cores are not enough to characterize a processor. It would be useful if you could share the exact model of the processors you have in mind. But, I am guessing you are asking for a comparison between [i5-8250u][1] (Base frequency: 1.6GHz Number of physical Cores:4) and  [i5-7200u][2]( Base frequency:2.5GHz Number of physical core:2) as comparison between these two models is pretty popular in the mid-range laptop segment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, note that the i5-8250 is a eighth generation intel processor whereas i5-7200u is a 7th generation intel processor. Also note that the i5-8250 has max turbo frequency of 3.4 GHz against the 3.1GHz of the 7200u and a 6MB of L3 cache against a 3MB of cache in 7200u. Hence the 8250u is in everyway a better and efficient processor than the 7200u.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lower 1.6GHz that you are worrying about is just the base clock rate i.e, the clock rate that all cores can simultaneously operate at under moderate load. Under heavy load, a single core of 8250u can boost its clock rate to 3.4GHz for better performance. The lower base clock rate is actually to improve power efficiency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/124967/Intel-Core-i5-8250U-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/95443/Intel-Core-i5-7200U-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3_10-GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30316" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="00052890-2500-4a94-ba98-970cf7f95924" CreationDate="2018-06-04T11:18:00.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="f2cf494c-8e0e-492f-abc8-84bd3acb1193" CreationDate="2018-06-04T14:52:59.437" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 143 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I have an old desktop running Linux, and I would like to put a SSD in as my main drive (replacing the current HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is to speed up the computer by placing the OS and applications in the SSD. I'm looking to buy a 120-250 GB, SATA3 SSD and some type of connector/adapter (like IDE/PATA to SATA) so it works with my current motherboard. Sometime later I will upgrade other parts (motherboard, cpu, ram) or transfer this drive to another computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the Hardware being used :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+&#xD;&#xA;- MotherBoard: [ASRock K7S41GX](http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/)&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because this is more of a intermediate upgrade, I would like to spend on the connector (or other solution) as little as possible. It has to make sense from a purchase point of view, otherwise making the full upgrade would be a better choice (And probably this is the only solution in this case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30319" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="f2cf494c-8e0e-492f-abc8-84bd3acb1193" CreationDate="2018-06-04T14:52:59.437" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 143 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Connect an SSD to an old MotherBoard ASRock K7S41GX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30320" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="f2cf494c-8e0e-492f-abc8-84bd3acb1193" CreationDate="2018-06-04T14:52:59.437" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 143 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30321" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9228" RevisionGUID="1059755e-c6e6-4701-8fc2-837dc5747531" CreationDate="2018-06-04T14:53:04.893" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30322" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="be1935fb-24b9-4b54-b7de-4d13c9ff985e" CreationDate="2018-06-04T17:06:16.937" UserId="9375" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="I have two options before me (in my budget):&#xD;&#xA;Quad core 1.6 GHz(Intel i5 8th gen 8250u) vs Dual core 2.5 GHz(Intel i5 7th gen 7200u) powered CPU.&#xD;&#xA;I use Microsoft visual studio,pycharm, and few other heavy IDEs for programming.&#xD;&#xA;And I don't know which is the best choice of laptop to buy to work efficiently for me,I mean no system hanging,no blue screens and stuff like that.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in Advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9312" RevisionGUID="e89224b8-9310-4058-84f9-c9caaa9e695c" CreationDate="2018-06-04T18:16:37.020" UserId="9382" Text="I'm digging my way through all the brands and models trying to find a (preferably unmanaged) POE switch that will let me plug in four 32w IP cameras + one 12w IP camera.  Any recommendations?  Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30324" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9312" RevisionGUID="e89224b8-9310-4058-84f9-c9caaa9e695c" CreationDate="2018-06-04T18:16:37.020" UserId="9382" Text="I need a POE switch that can supply four 32w cameras + one 12w camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30325" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9312" RevisionGUID="e89224b8-9310-4058-84f9-c9caaa9e695c" CreationDate="2018-06-04T18:16:37.020" UserId="9382" Text="&lt;switch&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30326" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7879" RevisionGUID="87eee9d3-cae2-4d0d-a677-bff323755d34" CreationDate="2018-06-04T21:30:41.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30332" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="6feb2724-b460-4868-abb2-97cc274f2749" CreationDate="2018-06-05T00:30:54.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30333" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="c8448ea3-33a9-482f-bc50-2867578e145b" CreationDate="2018-06-05T01:31:12.663" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30334" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="28b32771-1de1-4efe-b7f6-c5968ba588b3" CreationDate="2018-06-05T03:31:13.977" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30335" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="7f722f28-0262-4c78-9e0d-0f132c4e7973" CreationDate="2018-06-05T10:33:32.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9314" RevisionGUID="c4e2c3a7-e470-4f38-b088-71ae59c17e7b" CreationDate="2018-06-05T13:49:47.383" UserId="5775" Text="Laptop hit the floor. It's difficult if not already impossible to connect to WiFi. Sometimes laptop can detect WiFi, particularly the one at home, but the signal is usually weak. Sometimes it shows option of connecting but whenever I try to connect, it either says it's connected though I can't connect or it stops detecting WiFi. What are my options please? Is there some way to externalise the WiFi detection? Like I plug in something that detects WiFi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9314" RevisionGUID="c4e2c3a7-e470-4f38-b088-71ae59c17e7b" CreationDate="2018-06-05T13:49:47.383" UserId="5775" Text="Laptop hit the floor. How to connect to WiFi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9314" RevisionGUID="c4e2c3a7-e470-4f38-b088-71ae59c17e7b" CreationDate="2018-06-05T13:49:47.383" UserId="5775" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9315" RevisionGUID="660b6bcf-ec41-4167-8e9a-a107a50dff00" CreationDate="2018-06-05T14:33:03.340" UserId="9084" Text="You have some options here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most Laptops come with a very basic card provided, 90% of the time, by Aetheros.   They often either do not connect to an antenna or they are connected to thin wires that loop the monitor and serve as an antenna.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The component connection is relatively universal, so if you can get your case apart, you can upgrade this card yourself. It's a small card about the size of one of those grocery store discount card keychain fobs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, you can plug in an external USB NIC.  These work better than most internal cards, as they have their own affixed antenna.  The only downside is that if you only have older USB ports and not the 3.x variety, your connection speed will be limited to about 10MBs/80Mbps in most situations.  These are often sale items on Amazon. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your laptop is old enough to have a PC-Card slot, there are also wireless options there, but if the computer is that old, you're probably better off in the market for a new machine. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9317" RevisionGUID="5bf1d2a6-1a30-47a1-bc55-9be50be13f5d" CreationDate="2018-06-05T14:49:54.330" UserId="2336" Text="Looking for the simplest possible cell-phone with following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **physical keypad** (like the old phones before the iPhone era)&#xD;&#xA;- simple phone-book - like old Nokia phones and like...&#xD;&#xA;- allows phone calls&#xD;&#xA;- allows SMS&#xD;&#xA;- and allows create an **wifi hotspot** (for my tablet) using the operator's 3G/4G.&#xD;&#xA;- that's all - e.g. don't need radio, GPS, camera, hairdryer :), etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe, would be nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nice design (woman friendly) :)&#xD;&#xA;- somewhat rugged/watertight (but see the previous)&#xD;&#xA;- long lasting battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exists such simple phone which allows create an WiFi-hotspot? My googling, even searching Alibaba and such - failed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the phone will *&quot;know&quot;* more - I don't care, until it will have the all wanted features (mainly the physical keyboard - e.g **NOT** touchscreen and allows the hotspot).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30345" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9317" RevisionGUID="5bf1d2a6-1a30-47a1-bc55-9be50be13f5d" CreationDate="2018-06-05T14:49:54.330" UserId="2336" Text="Phone with physical keypad and hotspot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30346" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9317" RevisionGUID="5bf1d2a6-1a30-47a1-bc55-9be50be13f5d" CreationDate="2018-06-05T14:49:54.330" UserId="2336" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9318" RevisionGUID="f3385ecc-eada-4961-aa8c-882fd131f9e9" CreationDate="2018-06-05T15:32:57.183" UserId="9382" Text="Found the hikvision ds-3eo318p-e 240w switch which can do eight 30w ports, but it's expensive.  Decided just to plug injectors into the current switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started with my router going to a cheap 8-port 130w poe switch (30w per port max, purchased before the cameras), with a 12w fisheye and two 32w ptz on the switch.  Added two more 32w ptz to the switch, which worked fine until about 9pm each night when apparently the temperature would drop enough to make a camera heater kick in and draw just enough additional power to keep killing a switch port and make a camera repeatedly reboot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Decided to spend $0 adding the last two cameras by running cables from the switch to the 60w injectors that came with the ptz cameras, then from the injectors to the cameras.  The switch doesn't bother sending poe to the injectors.  Instead of one switch and one a/c cord i ended up with the switch and two injectors and 3 a/c cords total, and everything seems to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If injectors hadn't been included with the cameras, I probably would just have bought another 4-port poe switch and fed it off the 8-port switch like the injectors are being fed now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30348" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="c902578e-75d8-4d0a-9a48-2b355c140c1a" CreationDate="2018-06-05T21:39:02.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9319" RevisionGUID="b9fc29b4-0844-467f-b7c9-8eded4739fec" CreationDate="2018-06-06T11:41:41.780" UserId="9084" Text="The big issue you're going to run into is the need for a hotspot.   While there are still recycled and cheap phones made by one or two manufacturers which possess the other features, it's very rare for any of them to also serve as a hotspot.   They are considered entry-level phones and usually use a proprietary operating system so everything &quot;looks like the old days&quot; and a user would need to buy a better phone to add new apps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly recommend you migrate to Android, as address books and such haven't changed much.   Also, most of the mid-to-high range phones serve as a hotspot through their provider, though whether or not you can use it without wrecking yourself financially is up to your service provider contract. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [This is a list of phones which have the other features you want.][1] For a decent device which also has the keyboard as a physical component, Blackberry is your likely brand.  Most manufacturers simply don't use this now, as it's additional hardware (so additional expense), can be physically damaged through use, and the Android store features many, many options for free touchscreen keyboard alternatives to the one installed on a touchscreen phone when you get it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://thedroidguy.com/2018/05/top-7-android-smartphones-physical-qwerty-keyboards-87556" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30354" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="ebcd76e1-f30d-4fa9-a89a-4a0959dd9646" CreationDate="2018-06-06T14:50:57.920" UserId="47" Comment="added relevant tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30355" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9308" RevisionGUID="ebcd76e1-f30d-4fa9-a89a-4a0959dd9646" CreationDate="2018-06-06T14:50:57.920" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30356" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="faf0782c-72d5-4a3b-837c-737dd107c18d" CreationDate="2018-06-06T14:51:56.367" UserId="4495" Comment="tags edited" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30357" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5737" RevisionGUID="faf0782c-72d5-4a3b-837c-737dd107c18d" CreationDate="2018-06-06T14:51:56.367" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 203, 60 edit id of 690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30360" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="b0357e9a-9e4a-4344-86a4-e90ab85be8b3" CreationDate="2018-06-06T17:51:01.007" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9321" RevisionGUID="b68d3445-e216-41ce-87cb-c9222a9f8f42" CreationDate="2018-06-06T18:10:55.257" UserId="4043" Text="I can't really say how effective it will be in an open space, but since your goal is to obfuscate the noise coming from your conversation, your options are pretty much limited to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - containing your sound&#xD;&#xA; - generating additional unrelated sound&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many psychiatrist's offices use [devices like these][1] outside the closed office door to act as a sonic barrier between noise in the room and noise in the hallway. It is a fairly low-tech solution as it is essentially a small, very noisy fan within an acoustic amplification chamber. It is adjustable somewhere between &quot;medium&quot; and &quot;loud&quot;. Its effectiveness will depend on how loud you are being and how close you are to the door.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source: my wife and I use this specific model to provide white noise when we sleep.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Marpac-Classic-White-Noise-Machine/dp/B00HD0ELFK/ref=zg_bs_13052981_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GAHHFAR842XXYDZFTVR2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30362" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="16736995-99f5-485d-b8d9-ee8ecde11d3c" CreationDate="2018-06-06T22:55:25.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30363" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9285" RevisionGUID="2706d156-64a2-4e6c-bad3-d92ee44d6784" CreationDate="2018-06-06T23:41:12.963" UserId="9361" Comment="72" />
  <row Id="30365" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="070443cb-5f44-4080-998b-de5a3c9ea3f0" CreationDate="2018-06-07T15:23:34.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30367" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9322" RevisionGUID="37b81e55-07a9-495b-b45c-a54a02c9f97e" CreationDate="2018-06-07T16:35:39.430" UserId="9313" Text="I'll structure this response by increasing complexity of the solution.&#xA;&#xA;1. Turn it off turn it back on. Use the power button to shut it down, some systems use quick-boot if you shut down from within the operating system. Quick-boot preserves the system state and as such cannot act as a system reset.&#xA;&#xA;2. (This one costs money)Buy an external WiFi adapter or NIC, as mentioned in the previous response. Also as mentioned previously, make sure your laptop has at minimum a USB 3.0 port if you want any reasonable speed. &#xA;&#xA;3. Reinstall the drivers. This requires a small amount of technical knowledge, and can bork you WiFi card if done improperly. Using system info, identify your WiFi card. Then download the latest drivers from the website if you have windows, or your operating system's  requisite driver repository for all other os's. Uninstall the current driver, even if it's the same version as the one you acquired. Reinstall the freshly downloaded driver.&#xA;&#xA;4. Replace the WiFi card.(This one costs money) Don't do this if you have no knowledge of computer internals. Identify the make and model of your WiFi card. Purchase an identical one or a compatible replacement. Download the drivers for your new card. Uninstall your old drivers. Replace the WiFi card. Install the new drivers.&#xA;&#xA;If none of these work, consider repositioning yourself closer to the router, or replacing you router with one that produces a stronger signal. Worst case scenario you might have to replace your laptop.&#xA;Edited to give structure, posting the response initially smushed all the points together." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30371" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="8328768d-f081-40bc-b1f3-bc8e358ac3b9" CreationDate="2018-06-08T08:05:11.917" UserId="47" Comment="adding tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30372" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9209" RevisionGUID="8328768d-f081-40bc-b1f3-bc8e358ac3b9" CreationDate="2018-06-08T08:05:11.917" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 9284 edit id of 692" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30374" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="a06591c9-1c52-4910-9cc7-f3fa51a0e648" CreationDate="2018-06-08T13:44:16.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30376" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="580db4e2-cf8d-4a7f-a1d8-fab6fe1c3488" CreationDate="2018-06-08T13:52:12.923" UserId="47" Comment="adding a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30377" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="580db4e2-cf8d-4a7f-a1d8-fab6fe1c3488" CreationDate="2018-06-08T13:52:12.923" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 691" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30378" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="dcea3743-1abe-4b90-9957-1c01d3735a33" CreationDate="2018-06-08T18:46:00.803" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30379" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8710" RevisionGUID="706a8ecb-d7df-4814-a53f-991489c91c26" CreationDate="2018-06-08T19:46:08.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30380" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="052ceed1-0f31-4d9a-90b9-0dc46fc1b73d" CreationDate="2018-06-08T21:46:09.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8933" RevisionGUID="5945ff70-af2f-4dd9-92d3-46476a9facc2" CreationDate="2018-06-08T22:48:28.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="df457026-4257-44b4-940d-4f7961b2b6bb" CreationDate="2018-06-08T23:48:28.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30384" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="7cfd2666-3144-4589-9e2e-d50c21e4f193" CreationDate="2018-06-09T03:46:24.243" UserId="181" Comment="73" />
  <row Id="30385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="55527c51-0cf5-4dd6-96d6-019335d2544e" CreationDate="2018-06-09T04:45:14.203" UserId="2326" Text="I am a developer in the Linux ecosystem and I need to build an application in the Apple ecosystem but I am unfamiliar with Apple products.&#xA;&#xA;What is the cheapest Apple MacPro laptop that I can purchase to start and use for web application development?&#xA;It would have to be capable of running a small Oracle database and possibly an ETL tool.&#xA;&#xA;It does not have to be a new model as I have seen some ‘older’ models for a good price. If you could provide the specs and estimated cost that would help me sort things out. I have researched some articles and it seems the MacPro is preferred but beyond that my knowledge is limited." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="55527c51-0cf5-4dd6-96d6-019335d2544e" CreationDate="2018-06-09T04:45:14.203" UserId="2326" Text="Need help finding the right Apple MacPro laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="55527c51-0cf5-4dd6-96d6-019335d2544e" CreationDate="2018-06-09T04:45:14.203" UserId="2326" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9326" RevisionGUID="f0a01837-959a-44b5-b864-da8cf56a6552" CreationDate="2018-06-09T16:16:56.087" UserId="6568" Text="I am trying to set up some DIY home security video streams. I have several IP cams, like the D-Link night/day wireless Cloud Cam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that it's hard to get a good angle and it's hard to deal with multiple video streams.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to leverage a tall (30'?) flagpole. If I could mount a camera to it at the right angle I could see my entire yard/perimeter from one camera. This is perfect since I want to be able to see where my dog is in the yard to know that she's OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I don't know what hardware (mounting stuff? solar power source? etc?) I would need nor how the heck I would get to the top of the pole to install it... " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30390" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9326" RevisionGUID="f0a01837-959a-44b5-b864-da8cf56a6552" CreationDate="2018-06-09T16:16:56.087" UserId="6568" Text="Mount an IP camera to the top of a flagpole" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30391" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9326" RevisionGUID="f0a01837-959a-44b5-b864-da8cf56a6552" CreationDate="2018-06-09T16:16:56.087" UserId="6568" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30398" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="965ff4f7-1618-4ac7-a0c4-f3f325e979ae" CreationDate="2018-06-09T22:09:55.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9329" RevisionGUID="65a05942-da1c-4a2a-bbd4-1ee6884a8e71" CreationDate="2018-06-10T12:23:15.763" UserId="9296" Text="i asked Intel Customer Support about it, they said that TDP &quot;should&quot; also be a valid metric for low-intensity workloads, and that the `Xeon E3-1235LV5` and `Xeon E3-1240LV5` are the lowest TDP options for LGA1151... so the CPU i'm looking is probably 1 of those 2." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9330" RevisionGUID="89c78195-4d4f-4356-8b14-eaa905462af0" CreationDate="2018-06-10T12:50:24.687" UserId="9304" Text="Any mod capable Moto Z series device can be equipped with a [Livermorium sliding keyboard mod][1], although as of answering this question it is out of stock from the manufacturer but should be available by years end again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big issue here is the requirement for a hotspot, which most older phones would not support properly... So stepping up to a newer device is a requirement, adding in all the things you don't need (like GPS for example).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your other requirement of a simple phonebook could be handled by any number of Android applications available from the Play Store, but that would be trial and error based on what the user likes and is beyond the scope of hardwarerec. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://livermoriumltd.co.uk/products/keyboard-mod/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30402" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="d1da9001-22fe-4a60-8a2f-5b98f1bc17ae" CreationDate="2018-06-10T22:38:44.340" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30403" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="d94d0008-de07-4119-ba8a-62fad17db25e" CreationDate="2018-06-10T23:41:26.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30404" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="22bb3ec7-763a-43bd-9ecd-db67a124c196" CreationDate="2018-06-11T00:41:25.993" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9332" RevisionGUID="8ce5b38b-fa72-4901-bb5f-70b07b1df163" CreationDate="2018-06-11T13:49:15.387" UserId="9400" Text="I need to VPN into my company's network, and then RDP into some Windows Servers.  Corporate IT seems very Windows-focused, and there's no MacOS client for the VPN software.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm wondering if I could pick up one of those really cheap headless Windows machines such as the HP Pavilion Mini or the Asus VivoMini (or even an Intel Compute Stick) just for VPN'ing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would that work?  Would it have sufficient RAM/CPU to handle things?  Is this a stupid idea?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30412" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9332" RevisionGUID="8ce5b38b-fa72-4901-bb5f-70b07b1df163" CreationDate="2018-06-11T13:49:15.387" UserId="9400" Text="Cheap Windows Computer for Corporate VPN Access?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30413" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9332" RevisionGUID="8ce5b38b-fa72-4901-bb5f-70b07b1df163" CreationDate="2018-06-11T13:49:15.387" UserId="9400" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30414" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9333" RevisionGUID="70497fdb-22bd-4065-b316-abac06b875dc" CreationDate="2018-06-11T15:02:56.177" UserId="9401" Text="Yesterday I cleaned my pc, removed RAM, disk, and cpu fan(not cpu). After the clean-up I re-connected all the components again only to find out that the computer starts but reboots after a few seconds(the power supply and cpu fans turn up and then turn down... and repeat until I disconnect them).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Power supply: Corsair CX 750&#xD;&#xA; 2. Board: GA B85M-D3H&#xD;&#xA; 3. CPU: Intel I3 4150&#xD;&#xA; 4. HDD: Seagate 160GB/1TB&#xD;&#xA; 5. RAM: Kingstom 2x 2GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't miss a connection or touched the cpu. I think that would be the BIOS deprogrammed or corrupt. In this case how could I re-program or update the BIOS if I couldn't event access to it? Can I re-program/update a bios from another computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched in several supports forums but anything worked for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend in this case?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30415" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9333" RevisionGUID="70497fdb-22bd-4065-b316-abac06b875dc" CreationDate="2018-06-11T15:02:56.177" UserId="9401" Text="My computer restart it self before bios(how to re-program the bios)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30416" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9333" RevisionGUID="70497fdb-22bd-4065-b316-abac06b875dc" CreationDate="2018-06-11T15:02:56.177" UserId="9401" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9334" RevisionGUID="8196eb47-b909-4f5c-aef7-1f0169ad129a" CreationDate="2018-06-11T17:02:49.807" UserId="6475" Text="Your motherboard manual, which you can find a [link to here](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B85M-D3H-rev-10-11#support-manual), has a layout map on page twelve.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the lower right hand corner of that map, there's a pair of pins that are labeled &quot;CLR_CMOS&quot;. It is labeled by reference number 15. CMOS is the onboard memory storage for your motherboard, and is used to save BIOS settings. The CMOS memory can be cleared in two ways without booting the computer or accessing BIOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Follow the instructions on page 18 to short the pins and clear the CMOS memory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Use this jumper to clear the BIOS configurations and reset the CMOS values to factory defaults. To clear the CMOS values, use a metal object like a screwdriver to touch the two pins for a few seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Always turn off your computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before clearing the CMOS values.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;After system restart, go to BIOS Setup to load factory defaults (select Load Optimized Defaults) or manually configure the BIOS settings (refer to Chapter 2, &quot;BIOS Setup,&quot; for BIOS configurations).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Pull the CMOS battery from the board for a few seconds before replacing it. This is located near the center of your motherboard, and is round like a watch battery. In the diagram on page 12 of your manual,  you're looking for number 5 labeled as &quot;BAT&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After you successfully clear the CMOS memory, factory default  settings should be restored and you should be able to boot the machine normally. Make sure to enter BIOS and re-configure any necessary settings before booting to your operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If that doesn't work, my next order of business in terms of recommendations would probably be to take your power supply into a local shop for testing. This is usually free but you can always call ahead to make sure." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30418" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9333" RevisionGUID="db0183a4-9be1-4e0d-84d7-b88dc19b214f" CreationDate="2018-06-11T17:08:12.647" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30419" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="bf4fadc2-db09-47c3-b691-76a0a0259e9b" CreationDate="2018-06-11T17:57:57.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9317" RevisionGUID="66360476-be37-4d68-a79c-b5533e18925d" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:55:28.293" UserId="2336" Comment="added 267 characters in body" Text="Looking for the simplest possible cell-phone with following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **physical keypad** (like the old phones before the iPhone era)&#xD;&#xA;- simple phone-book - like old Nokia phones and like...&#xD;&#xA;- allows phone calls&#xD;&#xA;- allows SMS&#xD;&#xA;- and allows create an **wifi hotspot** (for my tablet) using the operator's 3G/4G.&#xD;&#xA;- that's all - e.g. don't need radio, GPS, camera, hairdryer :), etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe, would be nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nice design (woman friendly) :)&#xD;&#xA;- somewhat rugged/watertight (but see the previous)&#xD;&#xA;- long lasting battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exists such simple phone which allows create an WiFi-hotspot? My googling, even searching Alibaba and such - failed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the phone will *&quot;know&quot;* more - I don't care, until it will have the all wanted features (mainly the physical keyboard - e.g **NOT** touchscreen and allows the hotspot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because probably i'm not enough clear, adding the picture of the keypad. Don't want QUERY, sliding anything... just a such simple phone. Also added the pic of the simple hotspot device. Looking for a combination of two. :)  That's all. Nothing complicated, nor magical. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AeJ8C.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5o2C0.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9317" RevisionGUID="15bc076e-b034-4447-aebf-b12ff2325146" CreationDate="2018-06-12T01:00:54.680" UserId="2336" Comment="added 267 characters in body" Text="Looking for the simplest possible cell-phone with following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **physical keypad** (like the old phones before the iPhone era)&#xD;&#xA;- simple phone-book - like old Nokia phones and like...&#xD;&#xA;- allows phone calls&#xD;&#xA;- allows SMS&#xD;&#xA;- and allows create an **wifi hotspot** (for my tablet) using the operator's 3G/4G.&#xD;&#xA;- that's all - e.g. don't need radio, GPS, camera, hairdryer :), etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe, would be nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- nice design (woman friendly) :)&#xD;&#xA;- somewhat rugged/watertight (but see the previous)&#xD;&#xA;- long lasting battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exists such simple phone which allows create an WiFi-hotspot? My googling, even searching Alibaba and such - failed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the phone will *&quot;know&quot;* more - I don't care, until it will have the all wanted features (mainly the physical keyboard - e.g **NOT** touchscreen and allows the hotspot).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because probably i'm not enough clear, adding the **example** picture of the keypad. Don't want QUERY, sliding anything... just a such simple phone. Also added the example of the simple hotspot device. Looking for a combination of two. :)  That's all. Nothing complicated, nor magical. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AeJ8C.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5o2C0.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="692d0f54-bbf6-465a-bd04-cc046133b7f3" CreationDate="2018-06-12T16:44:15.003" UserId="5949" Text="I am looking for a physical remote so that I can press physical buttons that will&#xA;&#xA;* go back 10 seconds on youtube&#xA;&#xA;* increase or decrease playback speed by a factor of e.g. 0.25 with a single button press on youtube videos.&#xA;&#xA; does something like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30426" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="692d0f54-bbf6-465a-bd04-cc046133b7f3" CreationDate="2018-06-12T16:44:15.003" UserId="5949" Text="Physical Remote that connects with youtube?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30427" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="692d0f54-bbf6-465a-bd04-cc046133b7f3" CreationDate="2018-06-12T16:44:15.003" UserId="5949" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30431" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="02528b2b-e4d8-4bed-952a-08b357610b42" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:17:57.523" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30432" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="02528b2b-e4d8-4bed-952a-08b357610b42" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:17:57.523" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30433" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9001" RevisionGUID="cf2b88aa-5cd1-4189-9f39-1da008f6712d" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:20:26.290" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30434" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9001" RevisionGUID="cf2b88aa-5cd1-4189-9f39-1da008f6712d" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:20:26.290" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 694" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30435" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9337" RevisionGUID="a9d4194f-d93e-415a-8d18-b18358a361c7" CreationDate="2018-06-13T03:37:08.830" UserId="5440" Text="A package like the [**KKmoon HW0029**][1] or the [**FREECAM C310**][2] would probably do it pretty neatly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To mount something on the poll you can use a bracket like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pole-Mount-Bracket-SUNLUXY-Universal-Column-Camera-Mounting-Bracket-8-inches-/282935918551&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2JKupxO&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://C310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="7a6be26e-aca7-4f41-8d7d-3d64cb305469" CreationDate="2018-06-13T07:58:17.880" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="I use quite an old Phillips personal computer screen from about 2010. The resolution I choose is 1920X1980 and the only possible refresh rate is 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This PC screen has two cables: One is an AC power plug, and one is from the screen itself to the PC's motherboard (HDMI in that particular case, thought it could be DVI or anything else relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking forward to buy a PC screen that has only one cable --- from the screen itself to the motherboard, without an AC power plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing in 2018 or planned to come out in 2019? I'll be glad to check that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="7a6be26e-aca7-4f41-8d7d-3d64cb305469" CreationDate="2018-06-13T07:58:17.880" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="Are there any computer screens without their very own AC power plugs and sockets?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="7a6be26e-aca7-4f41-8d7d-3d64cb305469" CreationDate="2018-06-13T07:58:17.880" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="a5542b3a-1756-49d0-94fc-37d50b4c91b9" CreationDate="2018-06-13T12:07:07.147" UserId="9405" Text="In linux I have an app that constantly reads/writes many small files (e.g close to zero bytes), millions of them to a point where disk innodes are close to 100%. &#xD;&#xA;And 1000-4000 files read/written each minute.&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering what is the best HDD setup to improve performance when these files are read/write by more instances at once ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4 SSD in raid 0 ?&#xD;&#xA;- 2/3 SSD in raid 0 ?&#xD;&#xA;- 4 HDD raid zero ? (because I think SSDs drop in performance after so many permanent writes)&#xD;&#xA;- raid 0 included in Asus motherboard ?&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated raid car ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30440" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="a5542b3a-1756-49d0-94fc-37d50b4c91b9" CreationDate="2018-06-13T12:07:07.147" UserId="9405" Text="What HDD options (ssd, raid, card) for handling many small files?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30441" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="a5542b3a-1756-49d0-94fc-37d50b4c91b9" CreationDate="2018-06-13T12:07:07.147" UserId="9405" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9340" RevisionGUID="e5faf880-0dc7-4f5d-874f-cb99003e3da7" CreationDate="2018-06-13T12:14:20.010" UserId="48" Text="[Thunderbolt 3](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_(interface)#Thunderbolt_3) offers this already using [USB Power Delivery](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#Power_Delivery_(PD)) of up to 100W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt 3 was developed by Intel[48] and uses USB-C connectors. It is the first generation to support USB. Compared to Thunderbolt 2, Intel's Thunderbolt 3 controller (codenamed Alpine Ridge) doubles the bandwidth to 40 Gbit/s (5 GB/s), halves power consumption, and simultaneously drives two external 4K displays at 60 Hz (or a single external 4K display at 120 Hz, or a 5K display at 60 Hz when using Apple's implementation for the late-2016 MacBook Pros) instead of just the single display previous controllers can drive. The new controller supports PCIe 3.0 and other protocols, including DisplayPort 1.2 (allowing for 4K resolutions at 60 Hz). Thunderbolt 3 has limited power delivery capabilities on copper cables and no power delivery capability on optical cables. Using USB-C on copper cables, it can incorporate USB Power Delivery, allowing the ports to source or sink up to 100 watts of power. This eliminates the need for a separate power supply from some devices. Thunderbolt 3 allows backwards compatibility with the first two versions by the use of adapters or transitional cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, your PC would obviously need a Thunderbolt connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your current PC has only DVI or HDMI outputs, as your post seems to suggest, then as neither of those offer sufficient power for a monitor, then your existing setup would not accommodate your request.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 1.4a *can* supply power, but the port supplies only 50 &amp;nbsp;mA at 5&amp;nbsp;V DC over pin 18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9341" RevisionGUID="d8e83f29-216f-49ca-b9cf-789535f1de4f" CreationDate="2018-06-13T13:38:10.370" UserId="9084" Text="In general, performance RAID and SSD are not a thing you need to do.   The performance improvement is pretty minimal, and you'd only want to use RAID as a way to maintain multiple drives in case one begins to fail, allowing the other drives in the cluster to handle the load. If you're talking 10+ drives, performance RAID can come back into play.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD simply wont improve your performance compared to SSD.  An SSD will r/w faster than 3 HDD in RAID 0. You can't beat the abandonment of mechanical parts in an SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend using [a calculator like this one][1] to get an idea of your I/O speed results vs. requirements. Dedicated RAID vs onboard RAID is pretty much identical as far as performance and reliability.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In all cases, SSDs do indeed drop performance over time, but with modern SSDs, TRIM-style operations prolong this to a point that it won't slow down to anything close to HDD speeds until the drive is on its last legs, which is roughly two years after an HDD would have died anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If capacity or cost are less of an issue, and all you want is performance, then [a RAM drive may be the way to go][2].  These are faster than SSD and not subject to the same wear, and if you're doing that much work at a time, this might be a better approach.  You'd still want periodic backup to permanent media, but RAM drives are pretty much designed for how you described your use-case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.expedient.com/disk-raid-and-iops-calculator/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/ram-drives-faster-ssds-5-things-must-know/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30444" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="e757ef1f-cd99-4710-87f5-dd07fe156e91" CreationDate="2018-06-13T14:03:04.863" UserId="5949" Comment="added 100 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I am looking for a physical remote so that I can press physical buttons that will&#xA;&#xA;* be registered by my pc as if a certain keyboard button was pressed&#xA;&#xA;* has multiple buttons, where I can choose which keyboard buttons they emulate&#xA;&#xA;* Preferably bluetooth so that it is easy, and doesn’t require any extra receiver hardware&#xA;&#xA;&#xA; does something like this exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30445" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="e757ef1f-cd99-4710-87f5-dd07fe156e91" CreationDate="2018-06-13T14:03:04.863" UserId="5949" Comment="added 100 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Physical Remote that connects with pc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30446" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="e757ef1f-cd99-4710-87f5-dd07fe156e91" CreationDate="2018-06-13T14:03:04.863" UserId="5949" Comment="added 100 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9344" RevisionGUID="06ae1fab-6f76-40f0-b6c8-14346760de41" CreationDate="2018-06-13T17:47:16.780" UserId="6475" Text="You're looking for an &quot;HTPC&quot; (home theater PC) remote, there are many and plenty of them are programmable / have bluetooth / assortment of other features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you update your post with a budget and some more specific features you want, or with a few options that you want advice on choosing between, I'll be happy to help you narrow down a few specific choices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9340" RevisionGUID="c6dfece9-25e1-43ab-a2c2-8b8a09e4e7ef" CreationDate="2018-06-13T19:06:49.683" UserId="48" Comment="Added LG monitors" Text="[Thunderbolt 3](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_(interface)#Thunderbolt_3) offers this already using [USB Power Delivery](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#Power_Delivery_(PD)) of up to 100W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt 3 was developed by Intel[48] and uses USB-C connectors. It is the first generation to support USB. Compared to Thunderbolt 2, Intel's Thunderbolt 3 controller (codenamed Alpine Ridge) doubles the bandwidth to 40 Gbit/s (5 GB/s), halves power consumption, and simultaneously drives two external 4K displays at 60 Hz (or a single external 4K display at 120 Hz, or a 5K display at 60 Hz when using Apple's implementation for the late-2016 MacBook Pros) instead of just the single display previous controllers can drive. The new controller supports PCIe 3.0 and other protocols, including DisplayPort 1.2 (allowing for 4K resolutions at 60 Hz). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Thunderbolt 3 has limited power delivery capabilities on copper cables and no power delivery capability on optical cables. Using USB-C on copper cables, it can incorporate USB Power Delivery, allowing the ports to source or sink up to 100 watts of power. This eliminates the need for a separate power supply from some devices. Thunderbolt 3 allows backwards compatibility with the first two versions by the use of adapters or transitional cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, your PC would obviously need a Thunderbolt connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your current PC has only DVI or HDMI outputs, as your post seems to suggest, then as neither of those offer sufficient power for a monitor, then your existing setup would not accommodate your request.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI 1.4a *can* supply power, but the port supplies only 50 &amp;nbsp;mA at 5&amp;nbsp;V DC over pin 18.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from [Apple's 27&quot; Thunderbolt capable monitor][1], which they have just discontinued (although you may be able to still pick up some discounted remaining stock), there aren't that many on the market. LG recently announced two models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; -  34WK95U&#xD;&#xA; -  32UK950&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [LG teases new Apple-compatible Thunderbolt 3 monitors including '5K UltraWide' model][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 34WK95U is a 34-inch model with 5,120-by-2,160 resolution, high&#xD;&#xA;&gt; dynamic range, and LG's &quot;Nano IPS&quot; technology, which is said to boost&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the &quot;intensity and purity&quot; of colors. Thunderbolt 3 lets the monitor&#xD;&#xA;&gt; handle 5K images at 60 hertz, and connect laptops like the MacBook Pro&#xD;&#xA;&gt; without an additional power source.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 32UK950 will offer a similar featureset, but in a more&#xD;&#xA;&gt; conventional aspect ratio and with a slightly smaller 32-inch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The display is said to hit 98 percent of the DCI-P3 color gamut, with&#xD;&#xA;&gt; peak brightness of 600 nits, and support a second 4K monitor through&#xD;&#xA;&gt; daisy-chaining.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://everymac.com/monitors/apple/thunderbolt/specs/apple-thunderbolt-display-27-inch-specs.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://appleinsider.com/articles/17/12/21/lg-teases-new-apple-compatible-thunderbolt-3-monitors-including-5k-ultrawide-model" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30458" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="37292f9e-4e8e-4379-a047-7bcb5f311289" CreationDate="2018-06-14T01:43:56.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30462" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="61ce5d1e-d995-4326-85ce-ad3410a01261" CreationDate="2018-06-14T07:01:51.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30463" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="980998de-8d8d-4854-aa80-3c286b81dfd4" CreationDate="2018-06-14T08:08:17.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9347" RevisionGUID="14c7887d-cebc-4ae1-9c1a-ab8ca902b1fb" CreationDate="2018-06-14T09:49:28.120" UserId="7556" Text="# Yes, but don't get one if you can avoid it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are only two HDDs that fit the requirements you have: the Seagate [ST2000NX0253](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VpgPxr/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000nx0253) and the [ST2000NX0303](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zNPzK8/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000nx0303). At ~$300 each, these things are ridiculously expensive; you're looking at [SSD tier pricing](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/internal-hard-drive/#sort=ppgb&amp;f=3&amp;t=0) for a spinning drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation would be to instead get a cheaper 5400RPM drive–my recommendation goes to the [Seagate ST2000LM015](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2fGj4D/seagate-barracuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lm015) (currently $71.99) because of the reasonably large cache and Seagate's relatively solid reputation–and then set aside some SSD space as a cache, depending on the write endurance of your drive and OS/platform." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9348" RevisionGUID="7a63f621-e2e1-42d6-962f-44f9994bf77c" CreationDate="2018-06-14T11:11:05.043" UserId="7556" Text="# Whatever's cheapest [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&amp;s=30&amp;c=129,130,128&amp;sort=price&amp;m=7,8,14,27,94).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Currently that's an [MSI B360M PRO-VD](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144164&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=) for $55.99.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Since your CPU doesn't support overclocking](https://ark.intel.com/products/126688/Intel-Core-i3-8100-Processor-6M-Cache-3_60-GHz), unless you have plans to upgrade to an unlocked chip, getting a Z series board is unnecessary for overclocking. As such, [no motherboard will offer a performance boost](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx8rS9_vNDo), assuming it supports your RAM speed, which–based on the tier of the rest of the system–I'm assuming isn't particularly high, and is likely supported by all motherboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From there I've basically just selected for price. You may be losing some I/O, and most of the cheaper boards only support 2 RAM modules (not a huge deal since your system only supports dual channel anyways, unless you have plans to upgrade your RAM), but it shouldn't really matter too much. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've additionally chosen to eliminate Biostar and Gigabyte–not because their products are bad, but because of their relatively poor customer support." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9349" RevisionGUID="c0b2d549-bb30-4e15-b975-2a4c3500a231" CreationDate="2018-06-14T14:30:16.790" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="*I know its an old question at this point, but this answer should still be relevant to someone in need.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Crucial MX300 SSD (1TB)** ($239-280 depending on retailer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ***The Good*** The Crucial MX300 SSD is competitively priced and delivers fast performance. The solid-state drive uses efficient 3D flash memory and provides strong security with hardware encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;***The Bad*** The drive has a short three-year warranty and trails behind its main competitor, the more expensive Samsung 850 Evo, in performance and features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;***The Bottom Line*** If you're looking to upgrade your computer's hard drive, the new Crucial MX300 is a speedy and affordable choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Source][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/crucial-mx300/review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="bbc3e909-e0f2-4702-8d30-4d0f3b4602aa" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" UserId="7556" Comment="Correct misuse of MacPro" Text="I am a developer in the Linux ecosystem and I need to build an application in the Apple ecosystem but I am unfamiliar with Apple products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the cheapest MacBook that I can purchase to start and use for web application development?&#xD;&#xA;It would have to be capable of running a small Oracle database and possibly an ETL tool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be a new model as I have seen some ‘older’ models for a good price. If you could provide the specs and estimated cost that would help me sort things out. I have researched some articles and it seems the MacBook Pro is preferred but beyond that my knowledge is limited." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30469" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="bbc3e909-e0f2-4702-8d30-4d0f3b4602aa" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" UserId="7556" Comment="Correct misuse of MacPro" Text="MacBook for web development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30470" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="bbc3e909-e0f2-4702-8d30-4d0f3b4602aa" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" UserId="7556" Comment="Correct misuse of MacPro" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30471" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="bbc3e909-e0f2-4702-8d30-4d0f3b4602aa" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" Comment="Proposed by 7556 approved by -1 edit id of 696" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="f64f1bab-5d3d-439f-a96a-1ba8cbcb130f" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" UserId="60" Comment="Correct misuse of MacPro" Text="I am a developer in the Linux ecosystem and I need to build an application in the Apple ecosystem but I am unfamiliar with Apple products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the cheapest MacBook Pro that I can purchase to start and use for web application development? It would have to be capable of running a small Oracle database and possibly an ETL tool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be a new model as I have seen some ‘older’ models for a good price. If you could provide the specs and estimated cost that would help me sort things out. I have researched some articles and it seems the MacBook Pro is preferred but beyond that my knowledge is limited." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30473" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9325" RevisionGUID="f64f1bab-5d3d-439f-a96a-1ba8cbcb130f" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:05:28.423" UserId="60" Comment="Correct misuse of MacPro" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30474" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="5b8fbb34-1076-48b0-aac0-d05eed285dee" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:06:18.903" UserId="6047" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="I am running a linux system with an app that constantly reads/writes many small files (e.g close to zero bytes) to a point where 1000-4000 files read/written each minute causing disk innodes close to 100%. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the best HDD setup to improve performance when these files are read/write by more instances at once?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4 SSD in raid 0?&#xD;&#xA;- 2/3 SSD in raid 0?&#xD;&#xA;- 4 HDD raid zero? (because I think SSDs drop in performance after so many permanent writes)&#xD;&#xA;- raid 0 included in Asus motherboard?&#xD;&#xA;- dedicated raid car?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30475" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="5b8fbb34-1076-48b0-aac0-d05eed285dee" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:06:18.903" UserId="6047" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="What HDD configuration is best for handling rapid read/writes of small files?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30476" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9339" RevisionGUID="5b8fbb34-1076-48b0-aac0-d05eed285dee" CreationDate="2018-06-14T18:06:18.903" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 60 edit id of 695" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30478" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="4813148f-a9be-4173-a97f-c1f8667fcdec" CreationDate="2018-06-14T23:09:28.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30479" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="3f9fc7d2-4a25-4196-a504-61c9efce177c" CreationDate="2018-06-15T02:10:35.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9351" RevisionGUID="e200cc70-e8b6-4835-8347-51f3935b9e16" CreationDate="2018-06-15T05:15:51.073" UserId="1937" Text="I'm thinking to buy new RAM (for `Lenovo 320 15AST`, motherboard is `LNVNB161216`). I had 4GB, I need 8GB.&#xD;&#xA;My current RAM is `m471a5143sb1 2133Mhz, CAS (CL) 17, PC19200`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at two with such specs: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Crucial [CT8G4SFD8213] 2133 Mhz, PC17000, 15-15-15-36&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Patriot Signature [PSD48G240081S] 2400 Mhz, PC19200, 17.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;First is a bit cheaper, has frequency that no more that baseboard provides, lower latency, but lower PC (also I'm not sure which PC my baseboard provides).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Command  su -c 'dmidecode -t 17' shows that Speed is 2133 MT/s But specs on internet for my RAM (m471a5143sb1) tell that it has 2400Mhz. Does it mean that my motherboard locks down RAM's frequency ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`lscpu` gave me this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU family:          21&#xD;&#xA;    Model:               112&#xD;&#xA;    Model name:          AMD A6-9220 RADEON R4, 5 COMPUTE CORES 2C+3G&#xD;&#xA;    Stepping:            0&#xD;&#xA;    CPU MHz:             1491.819&#xD;&#xA;    CPU max MHz:         2500.0000&#xD;&#xA;    CPU min MHz:         1300.0000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking if there settings that locks down RAM, it seems there no, but I not sure, so I'll put these photos here: [![BIOS screenshots][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnOXg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30484" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9351" RevisionGUID="e200cc70-e8b6-4835-8347-51f3935b9e16" CreationDate="2018-06-15T05:15:51.073" UserId="1937" Text="Which RAM should I prefer (CL vs PC)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30485" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9351" RevisionGUID="e200cc70-e8b6-4835-8347-51f3935b9e16" CreationDate="2018-06-15T05:15:51.073" UserId="1937" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9351" RevisionGUID="b80be94b-9e96-4526-a975-b74692f93678" CreationDate="2018-06-15T05:54:53.057" UserId="1937" Comment="deleted 692 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking to buy new RAM (for `Lenovo 320 15AST`, motherboard is `LNVNB161216`). I had 4GB, I need 8GB.&#xD;&#xA;My current RAM is `m471a5143sb1 2133Mhz, CAS (CL) 17, PC19200`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at two with such specs: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Crucial [CT8G4SFD8213] 2133 Mhz, PC17000, 15-15-15-36&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Patriot Signature [PSD48G240081S] 2400 Mhz, PC19200, 17.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;First is a bit cheaper, has frequency that no more that baseboard provides, lower latency, but lower PC (also I'm not sure which PC my baseboard provides).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I think I'm gonna go with this one: SODIMM Crucial [CT8G4SFS824A] 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I have this question on superuser, I just had to move it here, there also answer [already][1], but if you have something to add you're welcome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/a/1331321/489178" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9352" RevisionGUID="ca40cbb0-b77a-42bb-8acd-2156198cd76c" CreationDate="2018-06-15T06:39:22.260" UserId="9411" Text="The &quot;PC&quot; number is a _DDR module name_, it indicates module's data rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- `PC4-17000` modules have 2133 MHz data rate (2133 &amp;times; 8 &amp;asymp; 17000)&#xD;&#xA;- `PC4-19200` modules have 2400 MHz data rate (2400 &amp;times; 8 = 19200).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The `4` indicates that it's a DDR4 module. `17000` and `19200` are peak transfer rates. DDR4 data bus is 8 bytes wide, so 8 bytes are transmitted each clock cycle, hence multiplication by `8`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, which is better: PC4-17000 with CL 15 or PC4-19200 with CL 17?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CAS latency (or CL for short) is measured in clock cycles, so we can calculate how much time fetching data takes for each of these modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2133 MHz = 2,133,000,000 cycles &amp;div; 1 s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Each cycle takes 1 &amp;div; 2133 &amp;micro;s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Latency is 15 &amp;div; 2133 &amp;micro;s &amp;asymp; 7.0323 ns&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2400 MHz = 2,400,000,000 cycles &amp;div; 1 s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Each cycle takes 1 &amp;div; 2400 &amp;micro;s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Latency is 17 &amp;div; 2400 &amp;micro;s &amp;asymp; 7.0833 ns&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So PC4-17000 has slightly better CAS latency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**But!** All RAM has to work with the same clock speed, so once you've installed 2133 MHz module, your current 2400 MHz module will underclock to 2133 MHz too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd probably go for 2400 MHz one. Latency difference is very small, but clock is 12.5% faster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30488" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="42430413-f5c3-411b-a6fb-7af5ab206b2c" CreationDate="2018-06-15T07:12:22.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9353" RevisionGUID="babc453c-96a0-4070-98bb-61dcd35b73fb" CreationDate="2018-06-15T09:14:01.583" UserId="9412" Text="Is there such a device that would allow to connect a SIM card through USB and make an actual phone call? (no VOIP, not using a smartphone)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If yes, how is it called, what keywords should I use to get more info? Or do you have recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30490" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9353" RevisionGUID="babc453c-96a0-4070-98bb-61dcd35b73fb" CreationDate="2018-06-15T09:14:01.583" UserId="9412" Text="Make a phone call with a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30491" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9353" RevisionGUID="babc453c-96a0-4070-98bb-61dcd35b73fb" CreationDate="2018-06-15T09:14:01.583" UserId="9412" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30492" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9354" RevisionGUID="5dbe85d7-68bc-44e7-b691-929ece784f09" CreationDate="2018-06-15T11:29:38.703" UserId="9413" Text="I'm looking for a laptop in which I can plug in a [PicoEVB][1] board without having to sacrifice my wireless connectivity or having to drag more hardware around with me.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I'm using this board in a server w/ an adapter (meant for NGFF Wi-Fi &amp; Bluetooth chips) and it works really nicely, but I wish for some portability.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as the rest of the laptop's specifications go, at least 8 GB of RAM and generally a beefier CPU is better, but I might settle for some weaker ones if there's an advantage (e.g. battery life).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even a spare M.2 Key M slot could be handy with [one of these babies][2]. Provided that there's a USB header available inside as well, of course...  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.crowdsupply.com/rhs-research/picoevb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NB8J3B" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30493" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9354" RevisionGUID="5dbe85d7-68bc-44e7-b691-929ece784f09" CreationDate="2018-06-15T11:29:38.703" UserId="9413" Text="Laptop with spare M.2 Key A/E slot inside?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30494" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9354" RevisionGUID="5dbe85d7-68bc-44e7-b691-929ece784f09" CreationDate="2018-06-15T11:29:38.703" UserId="9413" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30495" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="9ee8e564-942e-4734-8444-73bff3e6c7c3" CreationDate="2018-06-15T12:25:15.673" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30497" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9353" RevisionGUID="0984ebfe-2ba5-4989-989e-1b3285df4b2d" CreationDate="2018-06-15T15:25:03.240" UserId="9412" Comment="edited title" Text="Making a phone call with a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30498" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="44f28210-9b88-46ae-bcd3-3c6e9ed16022" CreationDate="2018-06-15T15:33:16.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30499" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="ed179ec4-d7b5-46de-a05d-b8f92c2c8f67" CreationDate="2018-06-15T17:33:16.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30500" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9353" RevisionGUID="49dabbbb-668e-4e60-bcdc-cf0eb1c72247" CreationDate="2018-06-15T18:00:18.003" UserId="9412" Comment="edited title" Text="Making a phone call with a laptop? (with a SIM card)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9355" RevisionGUID="5dae9c81-cdc9-434f-8b0c-927282850016" CreationDate="2018-06-15T18:33:37.233" UserId="5440" Text="As far as I know there isn't such a thing officially available. Search keyword would be &quot;USB 3G voice calling dongle.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;There are some guides over the internet on how to &quot;hack&quot; data dongles to be able to call with it. See this:&#xA;https://www.journeybytes.com/2017/08/how-to-make-and-pick-calls-with-your.html?m=1&#xA;And this:&#xA;http://www.ruchirablog.com/unlock-voice-huawei-hspa/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30511" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="03df884e-1ccc-4751-9a58-129751b6128d" CreationDate="2018-06-16T09:42:33.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30512" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="73682ae7-03cb-4536-b1f3-748be51b2c2c" CreationDate="2018-06-16T14:46:25.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30513" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="ba7991bb-92eb-41be-9fe4-1fa6668d0e0f" CreationDate="2018-06-16T15:46:25.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30514" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="6235b864-335c-43b5-9c26-ebb0015a6b36" CreationDate="2018-06-16T16:46:25.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30515" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="71c37bb0-3496-48c1-99ec-a80a6f69ccf4" CreationDate="2018-06-17T01:50:37.330" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30517" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7148" RevisionGUID="5b76f0e2-713a-4c10-9f57-9e9955690b81" CreationDate="2018-06-17T04:58:40.183" UserId="-1" Comment="73" />
  <row Id="30518" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8891" RevisionGUID="1c102c27-6a97-4d02-b34b-c47fa0d18c59" CreationDate="2018-06-17T20:14:47.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30519" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="74d85f3c-0177-40b6-b051-5f668aa84e04" CreationDate="2018-06-18T00:15:27.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30520" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9357" RevisionGUID="03402744-6cdb-4acd-b4ec-e7f539d711ef" CreationDate="2018-06-18T08:45:30.327" UserId="9420" Text="I have been forced 4 years ago to develop on a macbook pro (late 2013) in order to develop a mac application, although skeptical i totally fell in love with the quietness and the standby time of such device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just close the lid and then i can get back to where i was even a week later, with negligible battery loss. This is something i never experienced on any windows / linux laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i am wondering, is such thing possible with linux / windows laptop? Because for my kind of laptop usage these features are very convenient: i have a linux workstation at work and work on the mac laptop rarely so being able to just open the lid and be up and running is something i've been spoilt to." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30521" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9357" RevisionGUID="03402744-6cdb-4acd-b4ec-e7f539d711ef" CreationDate="2018-06-18T08:45:30.327" UserId="9420" Text="Is there a laptop (linux windows) that can match macbook standby time?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30522" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9357" RevisionGUID="03402744-6cdb-4acd-b4ec-e7f539d711ef" CreationDate="2018-06-18T08:45:30.327" UserId="9420" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30527" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9357" RevisionGUID="cb04a0d2-a8d7-4865-89a8-201d38270233" CreationDate="2018-06-18T21:46:41.203" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30534" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="fbec3565-a200-446a-a2d5-f73328f2aae9" CreationDate="2018-06-19T13:39:08.930" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30536" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="35a22d52-247b-4f16-b81d-f90a7afaf461" CreationDate="2018-06-19T19:39:08.193" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9364" RevisionGUID="1f4ae836-3fcd-45a0-968d-13f15e932717" CreationDate="2018-06-20T19:02:15.297" UserId="9433" Text="I'm developing an app which will use the new Android P feature to track indoor positioning (RTT, Round Trip Time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is some documentation about that. The technical name of this protocol is 802.11mc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I can't find any device at the moment which supports this feature in order to test it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone knows the list of the devices which supports 802.11mc (WiFi RTT)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30550" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9364" RevisionGUID="1f4ae836-3fcd-45a0-968d-13f15e932717" CreationDate="2018-06-20T19:02:15.297" UserId="9433" Text="Devices which support WiFi RTT (Round Trip Time, 802.11mc)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30551" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9364" RevisionGUID="1f4ae836-3fcd-45a0-968d-13f15e932717" CreationDate="2018-06-20T19:02:15.297" UserId="9433" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9365" RevisionGUID="ef032f17-6c3d-46ad-882d-85de003be0b4" CreationDate="2018-06-20T20:01:57.390" UserId="9434" Text="In my company we have a fleet of cars, and we would like to equip them with a simple device that when the driver presses a button, it will communicate him with our company's call center. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a nutshell, we need a one-button speaker that makes calls to a single number so our customers can call us from inside the vehicle." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30553" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9365" RevisionGUID="ef032f17-6c3d-46ad-882d-85de003be0b4" CreationDate="2018-06-20T20:01:57.390" UserId="9434" Text="Looking for a One-Button device that makes a call" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30554" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9365" RevisionGUID="ef032f17-6c3d-46ad-882d-85de003be0b4" CreationDate="2018-06-20T20:01:57.390" UserId="9434" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30555" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9364" RevisionGUID="e783a166-4780-4746-97a3-07bfd2bdeb05" CreationDate="2018-06-20T21:51:45.400" UserId="9433" Comment="deleted 12 characters in body" Text="I'm developing an app which will use the new Android P feature to track indoor positioning (RTT, Round Trip Time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is some documentation about that. The technical name of this protocol is 802.11mc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I can't find any device at the moment which supports this feature in order to test it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone knows some device which supports 802.11mc (WiFi RTT)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30556" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="47fad1c9-992d-43ef-9a08-a2f05f27d352" CreationDate="2018-06-21T01:09:32.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30557" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="35266094-5930-473b-9682-0d27e0dd6af2" CreationDate="2018-06-21T03:09:38.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30558" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="443f0fdf-b974-4c09-8b32-50128e40df1b" CreationDate="2018-06-21T04:10:30.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9366" RevisionGUID="86a268f9-d4ff-476e-b295-5acd76bce4b9" CreationDate="2018-06-21T05:55:27.110" UserId="7556" Text="# Early 2011 to Mid 2012 MacBook Pro 15&quot; non-Retina&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Within the MacBook Pro line, there's two big cutoff points: the switch from a dual core in early 2011, and the introduction of the Retina line in mid 2012. For sake of rough comparison, we'll separate things out into these three categories.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Model                 | Passmark     | Cost          | RAM upgradability? | Storage upgradability?&#xD;&#xA;    ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    Latitude E7450        | 3400 - 3798  | ~$270         | Yes                | Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Late 2008  - Mid 2010 | 1540 - 2846  | ~$190 - $240  | Yes                | Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Early 2011 - Mid 2012 | 5460 - 8454  | ~$330 - $520  | Yes                | Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Mid 2012   - Mid 2015 | 7369 - 10202 | ~$590 - $1120 | No                 | Yes, with some SSDs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing the E7450 to the MBPs, it falls into this weird gap performance-wise between the dual cores and the quad cores with the rMBPs well above what you need, since it's a newer dual core without hyperthreading. Purely for future usability, I'm going to recommend you spend the extra bit and get a lower end quad core.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the performance of the rMBPs actually overlaps the standard MBPs, since they were released simultaneously with the same processors. Besides the upgraded screen and lighter weight–things that seem to be unimportant to you–the early rMBPs seem to offer little advantage, while carrying a price premium, having less I/O, and less upgradability. As such, I'm going to recommend you stay away from them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on what model you get, you'll probably want to upgrade the RAM and storage to match your reference laptop. Both of these are user serviceable on the unibody MBPs, and can be easily serviced following the [appropriate iFixit guide.](https://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Pro_15%22_Unibody) If you're not using the optical drive, you can also swap it out for a secondary HDD or SSD. Note that there are some issues with SATA III compatibility to be aware of, but these are general non-issues if you're careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that prices are approximate based on recent eBay sold listings. As with any complete system, finding a reasonable price on a used machine will take some patience and searching on various sites. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30565" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6232" RevisionGUID="abfaf544-b3ee-4086-83c7-ef6d2f50da04" CreationDate="2018-06-21T11:15:59.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9364" RevisionGUID="0c0673dd-aed3-45d7-bc63-158cace80ae8" CreationDate="2018-06-21T15:33:58.210" UserId="9433" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="I'm developing an app which will use the new Android P feature to track indoor positioning (RTT, Round Trip Time).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is some [documentation][1] about that. The technical name of this protocol is 802.11mc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I can't find any device at the moment which supports this feature in order to test it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone knows some device which supports 802.11mc (WiFi RTT)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.android.com/reference/android/net/wifi/rtt/package-summary" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9129" RevisionGUID="0326d25e-8e8c-4376-92ec-12aa39f1fec0" CreationDate="2018-06-21T17:11:09.810" UserId="9185" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a wearable, preferred a wristband, to track my sleep cycles and wake me up (silently) at the best time according to what it tracks about me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has other features, such as activity/fitness tracking - cool, but that it won't be a must to wear it all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side/on bad trackers won't be very useful for me, since I live with my girlfriend and so we sleep together in the same bad. So it shouldn't be distracted by other people in the room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked [this question][1], but it's a year and a half old, so maybe there are new things on the market that I'm not aware of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations, or [jawbone][2] is still the best and maybe the only choice for that? How about the [Mi Band][3]? Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6332/wearable-sleep-aid&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://jawbone.com/up/trackers&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.mi.com/en/miband/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9369" RevisionGUID="f5e8c2c2-8460-4ea1-ac81-5fdd1dc9c8e7" CreationDate="2018-06-22T02:25:45.297" UserId="7556" Text="So far I've only been able to find two keyboards that fit the bill. I don't have a particular recommendation of one over the other–they both are from decent but not excellent brands, use slightly funky layouts, are fairly pricy, and look (IMO) fairly poor–but neither are particularly bad options, and I'd recommend you choose on personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [G.Skill KM780 MX](https://www.gskill.com/en/product/ripjaws-km780-mx--cherry-mx-blue) - [$103.67](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4ntWGX/gskill-keyboard-gkksr1c2km780s10na) / [KM780R MX](https://www.gskill.com/en/product/ripjaws-km780r-mx--cherry-mx-blue) - [$83.20](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/w2mxFT/gskill-keyboard-gkksr1c2km780rs10na) / KM780R MX RGB - [$129.99](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cntWGX/gskill-keyboard-gkkcl1c2km780rs10na)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Cougar 700k](http://cougargaming.com/products/keyboards/700k/) - [$117.79](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cM8H99/cougar-keyboard-kbc7003is)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUSN9.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oym0l.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="9783efc2-e5bf-4ac1-af4d-cc857c0ae17d" CreationDate="2018-06-22T03:46:09.630" UserId="9439" Text="I am looking for a smart watch or fitness band that can I can program to monitor skin temperature and alert me when certain criteria are met. I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Worn on the wrist&#xD;&#xA; 2. Programmable&#xD;&#xA; 3. Body temperature sensor&#xD;&#xA; 4. Does not require a paired smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="9783efc2-e5bf-4ac1-af4d-cc857c0ae17d" CreationDate="2018-06-22T03:46:09.630" UserId="9439" Text="Stand alone smart watch/fitness band with skin temperature sensor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="9783efc2-e5bf-4ac1-af4d-cc857c0ae17d" CreationDate="2018-06-22T03:46:09.630" UserId="9439" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30580" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="8d6b7fb3-c802-4553-bbae-b9a1419727c7" CreationDate="2018-06-22T19:38:58.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30582" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9357" RevisionGUID="cc41cbb2-8fae-4ee4-b703-96af40841baf" CreationDate="2018-06-23T14:05:01.387" UserId="9420" Comment="Added usage details " Text="I have been forced 4 years ago to develop on a macbook pro (late 2013) in order to develop a mac application, although skeptical i totally fell in love with the quietness and the standby time of such device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just close the lid and then i can get back to where i was even a week later, with negligible battery loss. This is something i never experienced on any windows / linux laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So i am wondering, is such thing possible with linux / windows laptop? Because for my kind of laptop usage these features are very convenient: i have a linux workstation at work and work on the mac laptop rarely so being able to just open the lid and be up and running is something i've been spoilt to. Besides after 4 years of almost daily usage battery still lasts for more than 6h that is another impressive feature.&#xA;&#xA;As asked from the comments main requirements would be: 15.6” screen, battery life both operational and idle and being portable so not more than 2kg of weight. Processor power is a plus but since I am able to still work on 4yo machine that should not be a major issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30592" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="a9fb03b8-c0dc-49fe-abc9-fcd818e5fa55" CreationDate="2018-06-23T23:45:35.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30593" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="5fcc0bd6-c7cc-4dc1-9177-bd8d209beace" CreationDate="2018-06-24T01:45:35.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9375" RevisionGUID="c3005002-6e1f-4ff0-9c29-3a8288b630a6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T12:58:37.833" UserId="9452" Text="I have an old gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R motherboard. On it there is also written &quot;FSB1333 Multi Core CPU...&quot;. &#xA;I want to install a wireless card, but I am not sure on what models are compatible because I don't think this motherboard has a PCI-E slot (athough one of the slots says &quot;PCI Express&quot;, the slot is still &quot;long&quot; like regular PCI, I really am a noob).&#xA;For example, is the Tp-link TL-WN881ND compatible or not?&#xA;What about the TP-Link TL-WN851ND, which looks more like it could fit in the slot pins?&#xA;Also, once the card is installed, I will not need any cable right?&#xA;My motherboard looks like this:&#xA;https://goo.gl/images/f7fzNe&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9375" RevisionGUID="c3005002-6e1f-4ff0-9c29-3a8288b630a6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T12:58:37.833" UserId="9452" Text="Advice for what wireless card to buy for old motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9375" RevisionGUID="c3005002-6e1f-4ff0-9c29-3a8288b630a6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T12:58:37.833" UserId="9452" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9377" RevisionGUID="5f8e2128-f40f-4c0f-abf1-01a09d540ab6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:10:54.993" UserId="9455" Text="First of all I already have a laptop, although it's not a very powerfull one, which I got 5 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, on to the business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was aiming for a desktop from this shop: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.chip7.pt/desktop/35176-doit-gamer-i5-8400-chip7-doit-g.html#/9-perifericos-com_perifericos/49-ssd-ssd_240gb/37-grafica-nvidia_gtx_1060_3gb/8-so-sem_sistema_operativo][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I wanted one for work and gaming too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm gonna be playing games like **Gta V**, **League of Legends**, **Minecraft**, **Assassin's creed Origins**, **Battlefield**, **Cod Bo3**, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a stable one and I have a budget of around 1150€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a monitor yet either, so please take that in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've thought about a mac, but I don't think it's that good for gaming, is it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a programmer, so I also wanted that pc to be good for programming stuff, like in android studio, or making graphs in python with matplotlib.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any Ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30606" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9377" RevisionGUID="5f8e2128-f40f-4c0f-abf1-01a09d540ab6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:10:54.993" UserId="9455" Text="Buying a new pc for work, gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30607" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9377" RevisionGUID="5f8e2128-f40f-4c0f-abf1-01a09d540ab6" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:10:54.993" UserId="9455" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9378" RevisionGUID="4f7aac8c-3330-4238-bed3-450060e3d378" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:37:26.727" UserId="2143" Text="I am searching for a case that is as small as possible but can fit a Hp 110 250 Series Motherboard 762025-001 and a HDD or SDD (and maybe a case fan).  &#xD;&#xA;The motherboard has a build in energy supply so that there is no need for a power adapter. That is also the part that is confusing me.  &#xD;&#xA;I thought maybe a HTPC case or a small cube is working, but the motherboard holes are not fitting with what I found.  &#xD;&#xA;Any ideas for such a &quot;special&quot; board?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30609" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9378" RevisionGUID="4f7aac8c-3330-4238-bed3-450060e3d378" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:37:26.727" UserId="2143" Text="Nano case for Hp 110 250 Series Motherboard 762025-001" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30610" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9378" RevisionGUID="4f7aac8c-3330-4238-bed3-450060e3d378" CreationDate="2018-06-24T21:37:26.727" UserId="2143" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9379" RevisionGUID="75706a58-fd2e-4e19-bf44-a83835afa5da" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:29:50.293" UserId="6047" Text="Based on the site you linked and the fact that your marked currency is Euros I'm going to assume you live in Spain, so I've recommended computers that could ship to Spain today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your linked computer seemed pretty good, but I thought I could maximize the price point further. The desktops I have recommended are capable of blowing any of the latest triple A games or heaviest application development suites out of the water. **Each recommendation also doubles the amount of RAM in your configuration to a gratuitous 16 GB (DDR4).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US €934,99 @ Newegg][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This is the desktop that I purposely chosen to price match your current selection and beat out it's components. This configuration fits in a powerful **i7-7700** along with a **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060**, with **6 GB VRAM making it VR ready**. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a blazing fast 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD**. This thing is filled with enthusiast grade goodies so it's probably more than you need, but if you're willing to spend 960€ on your linked system, you might as well buy this and save that 26€ for a nice dinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo €1.036,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €1.381,99][3] ##&#xD;&#xA;[![ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;Comes armed with a **i7-8700K which means you'll have additional control for overclocking scenarios**, **a 1 TB HDD**, and **a 240 GB SSD** and the aforementioned **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6 GB**. In this configuration you're really just paying for that CPU as it is [37% faster according to average user benchmarks][5] drastically outperforming the i7-7700 in multi-core scenarios. I don't expect you to actually use the system to a point where the cpu will bottleneck even if you have a i7-7700 so the extra processing power may not go that far for you unless you plan on overclocking as this processor can be pushed much farther than the i7-7700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883152410&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdM2h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16883102377&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zc2k.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-7700/3937vs3887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30612" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9379" RevisionGUID="b68b2d50-c8e5-460f-b08c-ed3b29cd533c" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:42:33.313" UserId="6047" Comment="Monitors" Text="Based on the site you linked and the fact that your marked currency is Euros I'm going to assume you live in Spain, so I've recommended computers that could ship to Spain today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your linked computer seemed pretty good, but I thought I could maximize the price point further. The desktops I have recommended are capable of blowing any of the latest triple A games or heaviest application development suites out of the water. **Each recommendation also doubles the amount of RAM in your configuration to a gratuitous 16 GB (DDR4).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US €934,99 @ Newegg][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This is the desktop that I purposely chosen to price match your current selection and beat out it's components. This configuration fits in a powerful **i7-7700** along with a **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060**, with **6 GB VRAM making it VR ready**. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a blazing fast 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD**. This thing is filled with enthusiast grade goodies so it's probably more than you need, but if you're willing to spend 960€ on your linked system, you might as well buy this and save that 26€ for a nice dinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo €1.036,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €1.381,99][3] ##&#xD;&#xA;[![ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;Comes armed with a **i7-8700K which means you'll have additional control for overclocking scenarios**, **a 1 TB HDD**, and **a 240 GB SSD** and the aforementioned **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6 GB**. In this configuration you're really just paying for that CPU as it is [37% faster according to average user benchmarks][5] drastically outperforming the i7-7700 in multi-core scenarios. I don't expect you to actually use the system to a point where the cpu will bottleneck even if you have a i7-7700 so the extra processing power may not go that far for you unless you plan on overclocking as this processor can be pushed much farther than the i7-7700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Now since you said you want to game with your configuration and would like some monitor recommendations, here are two 1920x1080 monitors with gratuitously high response times (1ms).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [Acer KG1 Series KG221Q €80,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €111,99][6] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer KG1 Series KG221Q][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a 21.5&quot; 75 Hz monitor, supports VGA, HDMI, and has 2x2 built in speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [Acer GN246HL €169,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €171,99][8] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer GN246HL][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor is a 24&quot; 144Hz monitor that supports D-Sub, DVI, HDMI. This monitor would be a real treat to play video games with due to it's super responsive refresh rate and response time, but comes with a pretty hefty price. This is a monitor that will make your friends jealous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883152410&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdM2h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16883102377&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zc2k.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-7700/3937vs3887&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824011095&amp;cm_re=monitor-_-24-011-095-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnyP7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009642&amp;cm_re=monitor-_-24-009-642-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeRDX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9379" RevisionGUID="5b165c0e-612e-4059-8ac6-fc7d40809239" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:51:11.307" UserId="6047" Comment="Final thoughts" Text="Based on the site you linked and the fact that your marked currency is Euros I'm going to assume you live in Spain, so I've recommended computers that could ship to Spain today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your linked computer seemed pretty good, but I thought I could maximize the price point further. The desktops I have recommended are capable of blowing any of the latest triple A games or heaviest application development suites out of the water. **Each recommendation also doubles the amount of RAM in your configuration to a gratuitous 16 GB (DDR4).**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US €934,99 @ Newegg][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI Trident 3 VR7RC-405US][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This is the desktop that I purposely chosen to price match your current selection and beat out it's components. This configuration fits in a powerful **i7-7700** along with a **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060**, with **6 GB VRAM making it VR ready**. It also comes with **1 TB HDD and a blazing fast 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD**. This thing is filled with enthusiast grade goodies so it's probably more than you need, but if you're willing to spend 960€ on your linked system, you might as well buy this and save that 26€ for a nice dinner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo €1.036,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €1.381,99][3] ##&#xD;&#xA;[![ABS Battlebox Essential Vortex Leo][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;Comes armed with a **i7-8700K which means you'll have additional control for overclocking scenarios**, **a 1 TB HDD**, and **a 240 GB SSD** and the aforementioned **NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6 GB**. In this configuration you're really just paying for that CPU as it is [37% faster according to average user benchmarks][5] drastically outperforming the i7-7700 in multi-core scenarios. I don't expect you to actually use the system to a point where the cpu will bottleneck even if you have a i7-7700 so the extra processing power may not go that far for you unless you plan on overclocking as this processor can be pushed much farther than the i7-7700.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Now since you said you want to game with your configuration and would like some monitor recommendations, here are two 1920x1080 monitors with gratuitously high response times (1ms).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [Acer KG1 Series KG221Q €80,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €111,99][6] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer KG1 Series KG221Q][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a 21.5&quot; 75 Hz monitor, supports VGA, HDMI, and has 2x2 built in speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [Acer GN246HL €169,99 @ Newegg MSRP: €171,99][8] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer GN246HL][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor is a 24&quot; 144Hz monitor that supports D-Sub, DVI, HDMI. This monitor would be a real treat to play video games with due to it's super responsive refresh rate and response time, but comes with a pretty hefty price. This is a monitor that will make your friends jealous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final thoughts&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To keep your system under your 1.150K budget, I think that you should go with the MSI Trident 3 and Acer GN246HL configuration as this make for a very pleasant experience while being under your max budget by 45.02 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883152410&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdM2h.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16883102377&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zc2k.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-7700/3937vs3887&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824011095&amp;cm_re=monitor-_-24-011-095-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnyP7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.newegg.com/global/es/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009642&amp;cm_re=monitor-_-24-009-642-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeRDX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30614" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="831025dd-d569-4900-9a8b-7aba456a0d94" CreationDate="2018-06-25T06:50:44.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9380" RevisionGUID="2502cfe5-3b10-4cdb-8bff-f4b0e5eebcbf" CreationDate="2018-06-25T14:58:46.893" UserId="9457" Text="does anyone know a yubikey-like hardware token, but with a fingerprint reader instead of just a capacitive button like the one on a yubikey?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9380" RevisionGUID="2502cfe5-3b10-4cdb-8bff-f4b0e5eebcbf" CreationDate="2018-06-25T14:58:46.893" UserId="9457" Text="Yubikey alternative with fingerprint reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9380" RevisionGUID="2502cfe5-3b10-4cdb-8bff-f4b0e5eebcbf" CreationDate="2018-06-25T14:58:46.893" UserId="9457" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30620" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="655d4405-745e-4777-a88b-d5f15c3ada90" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:20:11.140" UserId="47" Comment="added tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30621" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6141" RevisionGUID="655d4405-745e-4777-a88b-d5f15c3ada90" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:20:11.140" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 702" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="707c4b00-b2e8-4359-bea8-53fd0433af7a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:20:46.423" UserId="47" Comment="added tag, improved readability" Text="My company has tasked me with ordering servers for testing software before the software enters production in a business to business environment. We will have 12-15 people on these machines at all times with numerous virtual machines running on top of a vmware hypervisor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our company has a contract with Dell and I've been looking at what CPU we should purchase for a Dell PowerEdge R640. I'm looking at 2 of them, an Intel Xeon Gold 6130 and an Intel Xeon Gold 6126. The 6130 has 16 physical cores but only runs at a base frequency of 2.1GHz, while the 6126 has 12 cores and runs at a base of 2.6GHz. On Dell.com, the 6130 is only $80 more than the 6126 which isn't a big deal, but what do you guys recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm leaning more towards the 6130 because it has more cores which means more multitasking and running more virtual machines or giving more cores to a virtual machine, but it runs at a slower base frequency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30623" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="707c4b00-b2e8-4359-bea8-53fd0433af7a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:20:46.423" UserId="47" Comment="added tag, improved readability" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30624" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8812" RevisionGUID="707c4b00-b2e8-4359-bea8-53fd0433af7a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:20:46.423" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30625" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="ac4a98c4-fefb-44d5-8c2e-44ded3cf7129" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:22:31.543" UserId="47" Comment="added tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30626" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="ac4a98c4-fefb-44d5-8c2e-44ded3cf7129" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:22:31.543" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 699" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="d6a11719-a586-4573-b86c-86708aff7a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T18:57:03.963" UserId="9458" Text="I was given 8 Intel Xeon E5520 processors.  I would like to build a paralell computing server environnent for simulation and data analysis.  I would like some recommendations about what all I would need and compatible parts.  I have built simple home PCs before, but nothing like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did a quick search for a motherboard and this was one of the first that came up, but not sure as this is specific to Dell Poweredge:&#xD;&#xA;Dell PowerEdge C6100 Intel Dual LGA1366 Socket DDR3 SDRAM Server Motherboard 971VF K20HR 0971VF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory, storage, power supplies, case or chassis...what all would I need to get a working system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30628" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="d6a11719-a586-4573-b86c-86708aff7a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T18:57:03.963" UserId="9458" Text="How do I build a system with 8 Intel Xeon E5520 Processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30629" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="d6a11719-a586-4573-b86c-86708aff7a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-25T18:57:03.963" UserId="9458" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="6eb657d5-dccf-439a-9f23-60922fd2ab39" CreationDate="2018-06-25T22:37:58.290" UserId="9439" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a smart watch or fitness band that can I can program to monitor skin temperature and alert me when certain criteria are met. I have the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Worn on the wrist&#xD;&#xA; 2. Programmable&#xD;&#xA; 3. Body temperature sensor&#xD;&#xA; 4. Does not require a paired smartphone&#xD;&#xA; 5. Alert mechanism (e.g. vibration or beeping)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="ae30eef8-23a4-451b-9679-477c8ea168a4" CreationDate="2018-06-26T08:51:09.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30632" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="6bea894a-0f68-48b0-942e-7279909a24c5" CreationDate="2018-06-26T11:14:35.930" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9383" RevisionGUID="cc9d9fe1-83e7-4291-a3e2-f23f31732b4a" CreationDate="2018-06-26T15:07:08.943" UserId="47" Text="I found two thumb-driven wireless trackballs with tilt wheels that are compatible with Windows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Logitech MX ERGO][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ELECOM M-XT3DRBK Wireless Trackball Mouse][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-ergo-wireless-trackball-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/M-XT3DRBK-Wireless-Trackball-6-Button-Tracking/dp/B016QCPNUW/ref=dp_ob_title_def" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30637" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9383" RevisionGUID="825a47ea-be36-4ca7-9a50-50c59dbd1672" CreationDate="2018-06-26T15:12:13.707" UserId="47" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="I found two thumb-driven wireless trackballs with tilt wheels that are compatible with Windows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Logitech MX ERGO][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [ELECOM M-XT3DRBK][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-ergo-wireless-trackball-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/M-XT3DRBK-Wireless-Trackball-6-Button-Tracking/dp/B016QCPNUW/ref=dp_ob_title_def" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30643" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7423" RevisionGUID="1f57ab77-ecd7-49b5-9028-0b0d0a63729d" CreationDate="2018-06-26T17:35:15.223" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30644" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7423" RevisionGUID="1f57ab77-ecd7-49b5-9028-0b0d0a63729d" CreationDate="2018-06-26T17:35:15.223" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 701" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="3f39855a-113b-4775-bd93-315a2318bbd9" CreationDate="2018-06-26T17:49:51.690" UserId="1885" Comment="Cleaned up grammar." Text="I use a Phillips personal computer display from about 2010. The resolution is 1920x1980 and the only possible refresh rate is 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This display has two cables: one is the AC power, and one is from the display itself to the PC (HDMI in that particular case, thought it could be DVI or anything else relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking forward to buy a display that has only one cable --- from the screen itself to the computer, without an AC power plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing in 2018 or planned to come out in 2019? I'll be glad to check that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30646" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="3f39855a-113b-4775-bd93-315a2318bbd9" CreationDate="2018-06-26T17:49:51.690" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by -1 edit id of 698" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9338" RevisionGUID="0bd34445-60f7-4bfd-a569-37d904f319aa" CreationDate="2018-06-26T17:49:51.690" UserId="60" Comment="Cleaned up grammar." Text="I use a Phillips monitor from about 2010. The resolution is 1920x1080 and the only possible refresh rate is 60 Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monitor has two cables: one is the AC power, and one is from the monitor itself to the PC (HDMI in that particular case, thought it could be DVI or anything else relevant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking forward to buy a monitor that has only one cable --- from the monitor itself to the computer, without an AC power plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing in 2018 or planned to come out in 2019? I'll be glad to check that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9385" RevisionGUID="fcba293a-3783-4f9a-beb0-ebfa23b5e5fd" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:49:33.743" UserId="9463" Text="I've a question concerning a Wifi antenna with special needs / requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My computer is in a sailing boat, and I want to connect to the public wifi of the port. The signal is not always good because of the distance, and of course, the sailing boat is made of aluminium which doesn't help to get a good signal in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm thinking to add a Wifi antenna outside on the boat to connect to the public wifi and then connect or get wired to this outside antenna. Since the antenna will be outside, I also need it to be waterproof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen there is wifi antenna which can be connected with USB, but USB cable cannot be longer than 5 meters according to the specification, which is probably too short.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I won't always stay in the same port, it should be also easy to connect (to configure) to new public wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you suggest me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30651" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9385" RevisionGUID="fcba293a-3783-4f9a-beb0-ebfa23b5e5fd" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:49:33.743" UserId="9463" Text="Wifi Antenna for a boat" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30652" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9385" RevisionGUID="fcba293a-3783-4f9a-beb0-ebfa23b5e5fd" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:49:33.743" UserId="9463" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30653" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="6290f15c-6ecf-4412-bd11-dff6377616c3" CreationDate="2018-06-26T20:07:32.733" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/328774/relatively-cheap-airplay-2-receiver" />
  <row Id="30654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="a8453674-09b1-4dbc-bd20-32d8091387cb" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:36:31.087" UserId="9464" UserDisplayName="Tommy Rodrigues" Text="With the recent release of AirPlay 2, I now feel that it is time to start a long time coming project of mine which is to create an outdoor speaker system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I have a few Sonos PLAY:1s in my house and would love to be able to play music simultaneously to both my outdoor speakers and my Sonos speakers. Of course, the obvious solution would be to buy a Sonos Connect, however, I feel that these are extortionately expensive for what they are and am seeking an alternative option. I have been excited for the release of AirPlay 2 as I had heard that, a) Sonos might've implemented the new protocol on its existing speakers and b) that the AirPort express would be able to act as an AirPlay 2 receiver which could theoretically be plugged straight into an amp.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This would've been the ideal solution. However, as reality has it, Sonos will only be making AirPlay 2 available on its newer speakers as explained [here][1] (If you do have one of their newer speakers, you can group this with the older ones in order to have them work of AirPlay 2 as well). Furthermore, it has become apparent that the AirPort express will not support AirPlay 2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has left me in a really awkward situation as I am not sure how to move forward. It is clear that I will have to buy a newer Sonos speaker either way but this only gets me as far as making my current Sonos speakers AirPlay 2 compatible. I have done a lot of research and found solutions that only seem to work for AirPlay 1 such as [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: Is there a cheap &quot;receiver&quot; for the AirPlay 2 protocol which I can simply plug into my amp? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance for any help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kind regards,&#xD;&#xA;Tom&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.theverge.com/2018/6/6/17434294/airplay-2-sonos-speakers-in-july&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/mikebrady/shairport-sync" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="a8453674-09b1-4dbc-bd20-32d8091387cb" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:36:31.087" UserId="9464" UserDisplayName="Tommy Rodrigues" Text="Relatively cheap AirPlay 2 receiver?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="a8453674-09b1-4dbc-bd20-32d8091387cb" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:36:31.087" UserId="9464" UserDisplayName="Tommy Rodrigues" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="44117e95-836e-4964-9809-8dfc6fd7d00d" CreationDate="2018-06-26T20:08:37.917" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 26 characters in body" Text="With the recent release of AirPlay 2, I now feel that it is time to start a long time coming project of mine which is to create an outdoor speaker system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I have a few Sonos PLAY:1s in my house and would love to be able to play music simultaneously to both my outdoor speakers and my Sonos speakers. Of course, the obvious solution would be to buy a Sonos Connect, however, I feel that these are extortionately expensive for what they are and am seeking an alternative option. I have been excited for the release of AirPlay 2 as I had heard that, a) Sonos might've implemented the new protocol on its existing speakers and b) that the AirPort express would be able to act as an AirPlay 2 receiver which could theoretically be plugged straight into an amp.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This would've been the ideal solution. However, as reality has it, Sonos will only be making AirPlay 2 available on its newer speakers as explained [here][1] (If you do have one of their newer speakers, you can group this with the older ones in order to have them work of AirPlay 2 as well). Furthermore, it has become apparent that the AirPort express will not support AirPlay 2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has left me in a really awkward situation as I am not sure how to move forward. It is clear that I will have to buy a newer Sonos speaker either way but this only gets me as far as making my current Sonos speakers AirPlay 2 compatible. I have done a lot of research and found solutions that only seem to work for AirPlay 1 such as [here][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is: Is there a cheap ($200 max, but preferably &lt; $100) &quot;receiver&quot; for the AirPlay 2 protocol which I can simply plug into my amp? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.theverge.com/2018/6/6/17434294/airplay-2-sonos-speakers-in-july&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/mikebrady/shairport-sync" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30661" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3861" RevisionGUID="6ca4e282-437c-4802-b93d-538c3f7c6a3d" CreationDate="2018-06-27T06:44:22.350" UserId="47" Comment="fixed broken link" Text="Found some alternatives (which do not fulfill all requirements) during my search:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CoDrone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/728836843/codrone-learn-to-code-with-programmable-drone/description&#xD;&#xA; - https://forum.robolink.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drone Pi (Raspberry Pi + MultWii)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Drone-Pi/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30662" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="3861" RevisionGUID="6ca4e282-437c-4802-b93d-538c3f7c6a3d" CreationDate="2018-06-27T06:44:22.350" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 1285 edit id of 705" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9388" RevisionGUID="ee2b7d82-4b01-415e-b3f0-d8682a1fa3d0" CreationDate="2018-06-27T13:38:11.147" UserId="9412" Text="I would like to find KVM with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI!&#xD;&#xA; - 4K@60Hz (&lt;=&gt; HDMI 2.0?)&#xD;&#xA; - that works between computer and TV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-have-but-not-required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Not too expensive&#xD;&#xA;   - A remote controller&#xD;&#xA;   - Looking good&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research but info about KVM are quite spread and random.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9388" RevisionGUID="ee2b7d82-4b01-415e-b3f0-d8682a1fa3d0" CreationDate="2018-06-27T13:38:11.147" UserId="9412" Text="4-port HDMI 4K 60Hz KVM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9388" RevisionGUID="ee2b7d82-4b01-415e-b3f0-d8682a1fa3d0" CreationDate="2018-06-27T13:38:11.147" UserId="9412" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30667" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9388" RevisionGUID="625b2d6b-ef05-443e-a065-9d26434e2fd6" CreationDate="2018-06-27T13:48:02.273" UserId="9412" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would like to find KVM with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI!&#xD;&#xA; - 4K@60Hz (&lt;=&gt; HDMI 2.0?)&#xD;&#xA; - that works between computers and TV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-have-but-not-required:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   - Not too expensive&#xD;&#xA;   - A remote controller&#xD;&#xA;   - Looking good&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have done some research but info about KVM are quite spread and random.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30668" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9388" RevisionGUID="01048f7c-717c-46a9-ba65-ac8abc7a6d8d" CreationDate="2018-06-27T13:57:23.370" UserId="9412" Comment="edited title" Text="4-port HDMI 4K@60Hz KVM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7747" RevisionGUID="6bed808a-76be-4fee-8893-c2d5935af12a" CreationDate="2018-06-27T14:31:07.363" UserId="47" Comment="fixed broken link" Text="http://assets.coolermaster.com/landing/am4-socket-ready/v2/download/RR-AM4B-H212-S1.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is a link to the installation instructions for installing a Coolermaster after-market cooler. It lists the following models as compatible with an AM4 socket:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MasterAir Pro 4&#xD;&#xA;- MasterAir Pro 3&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 412 Series&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 212 EVO&#xD;&#xA;- Hyper 212 X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The instructions specifically state that you need to remove those two plastic brackets and the screws, using the backplate and the holes in the motherboard to install the cooler instead of those brackets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm certain that if you looked at other cooler manufacturers like BeQuiet or Noctua you could find something with similar after-market brackets if none of the listed options meet your other unlisted requirements, whatever they may be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will also recommend contacting Asus and having them ship you a spare bracket, as I'm not able to find any online that aren't the usual litany of poorly priced ebay listings. Your motherboard should have come with that, and if your aftermarket cooler were to break or something that backup option should be available to you. You're the customer, get what you paid for.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30670" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7747" RevisionGUID="6bed808a-76be-4fee-8893-c2d5935af12a" CreationDate="2018-06-27T14:31:07.363" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 6475 edit id of 707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9390" RevisionGUID="c398ab31-b4e7-43c2-a8a9-6c355ccbcbe7" CreationDate="2018-06-27T16:43:57.033" UserId="9466" Text="The local county has delicate, aging documents that we would like to digitize for preservation and archival. Mostly things like building plans and public records books. Many of these are either too large or too fragile to feed through document feeders or on flatbeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal solution would be a 300 to 600 dpi wand-type scanner with the ability, either on board or via software utility, to stitch the scanned images together to create a single image.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not opposed to separating the software functionality from the hardware, so long as the end result is the same." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30675" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9390" RevisionGUID="c398ab31-b4e7-43c2-a8a9-6c355ccbcbe7" CreationDate="2018-06-27T16:43:57.033" UserId="9466" Text="Looking for a Hand (Wand) Scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30676" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9390" RevisionGUID="c398ab31-b4e7-43c2-a8a9-6c355ccbcbe7" CreationDate="2018-06-27T16:43:57.033" UserId="9466" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9392" RevisionGUID="4fdcc98e-1320-4903-acb4-48e154765461" CreationDate="2018-06-27T18:45:21.277" UserId="6089" Text="I own and use a previously successful Kickstarter campaign product known as the Dacuda Pocket Scanner. The 2014 project resulted in a great working hand-sized device which produces reasonably good output. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My search for a link from which to purchase resulted in failure, as all indications (from Dacuda!) is that they don't and won't make them any more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strange enough, a generic search found this [PenPower BeeScan][1] device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![hand scanner image][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is point for point and feature for feature the same scanner that I have from Dacuda. Off topic, I wonder if there was some intellectual property loss involved in Dacuda's decision to cease production!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My scans usually involve the newspaper and for that purpose it is excellent. As with all newsprint, the reverse shows through, which means I won't post a sample of that type of scan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lucky for me, I have one of a day-to-day calendar page which has opaque paper and no reverse bleed-through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Pearls Before Swine scanned image][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was possibly a two-scan image, but the unit stitches pieces together very well. Occasionally it is necessary to make a second pass when things get out of kilter. The second pass usually puts them back in kilter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is bluetooth coupled to a tablet or phone and has very low latency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've snapped off a few photos to show the similarities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![dacuda 1 image][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![dacuda 2 image][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![dacuda 3 image][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![dacuda 4 image][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/PenPower-SWDSBSK1EN-Bluetooth-Wireless-Handheld/dp/B014JZ4264&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn9in.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvHT.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhnTy.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DniWm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/WqDmX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiiC4.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30681" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="3983485d-6b3f-4af7-abe1-57f6a244593e" CreationDate="2018-06-28T00:56:03.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30682" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7956" RevisionGUID="01565e55-244d-4888-af75-8724e5e5b848" CreationDate="2018-06-28T02:38:31.113" UserId="2059" Comment="structure + mode detail" Text="Since this question has been asked some time ago, I feel, I should update you on the actual accepted solution, see below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found, that [**M-Disc** (Millennial Disc)][1] technology could allegedly endure up to 1000 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little comparison image:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![M-Disc vs other storage media][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have bought the below Blu-Ray writer; you can find their compatibility with [M-Disc][1] DVD/Blu-Ray 4.7/25/50/100 GB [on this page][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My final pick of the writer was: [ASUS BW-16D1H-U PRO][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is noteworthy to say, that any Blu-Ray reader can read these M-Discs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pT3rj.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.mdisc.com/m-ready/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asus.com/Optical-Drives-Storage/BW16D1HU_PRO/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9394" RevisionGUID="97fdde63-ac36-4e49-a1dd-5e2a34edffe4" CreationDate="2018-06-28T11:41:23.457" UserId="9084" Text="It has PCI-E, and PCI-E is backward compatible, so you can put a PCI-E 16x or 8x card in a lesser speed slot and it will just give a modest impact to performance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't have faster than a 480Mbps (megabits, not megabytes) internet connection, I'd just go with a USB 2.0 Wireless adapter.   Wireless cards are cheap tech, USB is easier to replace if there is ever a problem, and a USB device will usually have a better antennae to give you a more reliable connection.  It also lets you do things like disconnect from the internet manually or plug it into other devices later on. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30686" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="1d8b206c-8ff7-4a25-ac43-5c55c94e191d" CreationDate="2018-06-28T13:56:16.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30687" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="c1c74a9c-63d3-4524-9fe4-7c20f801d062" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:56:28.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30688" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="c0859212-7a20-4630-80bf-e3349fde1860" CreationDate="2018-06-28T16:57:00.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="6e6fcd0a-50a1-4364-bcd8-8b1eede9d35e" CreationDate="2018-06-28T17:46:01.060" UserId="9458" Comment="deleted 350 characters in body; edited title; edited title; deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I was given 8 Intel Xeon E5520 processors.  I would like to build a parallel computing system for simulation and data processing.&#xA;&#xA;What type of motherboards should I get to build this system?  It would be great if I could put all of the boards in one case/chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30690" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9381" RevisionGUID="6e6fcd0a-50a1-4364-bcd8-8b1eede9d35e" CreationDate="2018-06-28T17:46:01.060" UserId="9458" Comment="deleted 350 characters in body; edited title; edited title; deleted 3 characters in body" Text="What type of motherboards should I use to build a system with 8 Intel Xeon E5520 Processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30691" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="4ecdf2d6-ba02-4ffd-b10a-5ff1fa358b91" CreationDate="2018-06-28T19:57:03.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2295" RevisionGUID="f7adbcfa-fd0e-4dc8-85a7-c3400171d223" CreationDate="2018-06-28T22:02:44.687" UserId="60" Comment="Removed broken link" Text="If you want something really basic and cheap, I'll recommend a Raspberry Pi 3, which was recently released. It has built-in support for **WLAN** and **Bluetooth 4.1**, which is great for such a cheap device. You'll want to attach some external storage HD or get a pretty decent MicroSD card, depending on your storage needs. Western Digital just released a great 314 GB external hard drive that is made for the Raspberry Pi, but others will do just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could attach bluetooth speakers, like the Bose SoundLink Mini, which in my personal experience has amazing sound quality - and since you'll have plenty of left-over budget it might be a nice option as you probably want a high quality audio experience more than anything else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install the default Raspbian (based on Debian) or other Linux variants on there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not an x86 architecture, but uses an ARM processor (1.2 GHz quad-core). So, have a look around if that's something you are ok with. In my experience it'll work really well for all the tasks specified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also really small and can be hidden out of the way in the corner really easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-3-on-sale/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/03/western-digital-makes-a-46-314gb-hard-drive-just-for-the-raspberry-pi/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30698" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="c4c9d7bb-88ba-442a-be0b-34a10bd43655" CreationDate="2018-06-28T23:57:21.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30702" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="c7289343-4e8c-4d23-8bd3-fe989f6eef0d" CreationDate="2018-06-29T00:57:11.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30707" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="c3cb70ec-91b0-4edf-adf2-b8f588d10f64" CreationDate="2018-06-29T05:57:11.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30713" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="5bb8c93c-d1eb-4292-abf6-0e9c63379a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T09:13:14.537" UserId="7953" Text="Remote sensing of vehicle emissions consists of analyzing the emissions of a vehicle passing by using a light source and a light detector (generally in the IR and UV range) to check if the car is compliant to the current legislation against pollution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This works because each pollution element absorbs the light at a different frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know there are the existing commercial devices that can do this are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - EDAR by [HEAT LLC][1]&#xD;&#xA; - RSD by [Envirotest Opus Inspections][2]&#xD;&#xA; - FEAT by University of Denver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These devices consists basically in two parts to be put on the opposite sides of the street: an emitter (or emitter/detector) and a detector (or a mirror to bounce the light back to the emitter/detector device). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These devices are very expensive because they are ready-to-use and includes a graphical interface so that almost anyone can use them and I thing they implement all the algorithms to get the concentration but I am not interested in them. So I am looking if it is possible to build something (even less precise) by myself starting from lower-level elements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if there exist light emitters/detectors sensors to analyze gas concentration(s) for this task where the emitter and detector are separate and that can work with a relatively long distance (3-4 meters) and whose output can be acquired/sampled by an embedded computer? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical gas sensors I have seen are generally on single-board while others are for proximity/obstacle detections so that the frequency they use is not suitable for such applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.heatremotesensing.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://opusinspection.com/remote-sensing-device-technology/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30714" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="5bb8c93c-d1eb-4292-abf6-0e9c63379a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T09:13:14.537" UserId="7953" Text="Optical gas sensors for remote sensing vehicle emissions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30715" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="5bb8c93c-d1eb-4292-abf6-0e9c63379a5a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T09:13:14.537" UserId="7953" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="867d30fc-5eae-482b-9982-dc2098fcba6a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T14:06:33.503" UserId="5449" Text="I would like to install a battery pack on the bottom of 2017 13in MacBook Pro.  Considering it charges by USB C I am hopefully this might not be to difficult.  I use my MacBook Pro while commuting but the battery doesn't last long enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="867d30fc-5eae-482b-9982-dc2098fcba6a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T14:06:33.503" UserId="5449" Text="2017 MacBook Pro 13in Battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="867d30fc-5eae-482b-9982-dc2098fcba6a" CreationDate="2018-06-29T14:06:33.503" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30724" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="b8e2ecf8-455c-465c-be61-a305e47d1575" CreationDate="2018-06-29T15:45:50.713" UserId="9475" Text="There have been [similar questions][1] that *seem* to offer a [WiFi &quot;bridge&quot; solution][2] but I have tried several of these bridge routers and none of them work to &quot;bride&quot; a University WiFi that requires a Username and Password to log in. The TP link &quot;bridge&quot; router claimed to do just that, but after an hour on the phone working through it we find that they can not connect through a &quot;portal&quot; either. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anyway at all of make an always on WiFi &quot;bridge&quot; or &quot;hot spot&quot;? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried Windows 10 &quot;Hotspot&quot; but it times out, and for some reason Android hotspot just does not seem to work at all on this network. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks all!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    SSID:	[MyUniversity]wireless&#xD;&#xA;    Protocol:	802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;    Security type:	WPA2-Enterprise&#xD;&#xA;    Type of sign-in info:	Microsoft: Protected EAP (PEAP)&#xD;&#xA;    Network band:	5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Network channel:	161&#xD;&#xA;    IPv4 address:	172.28.88.100&#xD;&#xA;    IPv4 DNS servers:	128.146.1.7&#xD;&#xA;    128.146.48.7&#xD;&#xA;    Primary DNS suffix:	[MyUniversity]wireless.[something]-state.edu&#xD;&#xA;    Manufacturer:	Intel Corporation&#xD;&#xA;    Description:	Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 8260&#xD;&#xA;    Driver version:	19.50.1.6&#xD;&#xA;    Physical address (MAC):	C2-32-73-69-0F-35&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/googlehome/comments/6urn10/how_to_connect_google_home_to_university_wifi/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;dpID=3188yDCIq7L&amp;dpPl=1&amp;keywords=travel%20router&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;qid=1503192526&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;ref_=mp_s_a_1_6&amp;sr=8-6&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30725" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="b8e2ecf8-455c-465c-be61-a305e47d1575" CreationDate="2018-06-29T15:45:50.713" UserId="9475" Text="Is there a WiFi &quot;bridge&quot; router (or device) that can make a permanent hotspot from a University wireless requires a username and password?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30726" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="b8e2ecf8-455c-465c-be61-a305e47d1575" CreationDate="2018-06-29T15:45:50.713" UserId="9475" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7291" RevisionGUID="3309ffce-f8b5-45dc-b402-bb70dc6db7b0" CreationDate="2018-06-29T16:46:47.487" UserId="60" Comment="Removed a dead link" Text="They both look identical. Neither give information on the drive used in the enclosure. You might want to have an external drive that's either 1: has a drive with 7200RPM or an SSD for even more speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.wdc.com/products/portable-storage/wd-elements-portable.html#WDBUZG0010BBK-NESN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have the money: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T3-Portable-SSD-MU-PT1T0B/dp/B01AVF6UO8. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30728" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="6ffaa228-d562-4ecc-90cd-33885935654b" CreationDate="2018-06-29T16:47:57.027" UserId="47" Comment="adding tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;dvd-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30729" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="6ffaa228-d562-4ecc-90cd-33885935654b" CreationDate="2018-06-29T16:47:57.027" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 60 edit id of 711" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30734" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="3062ff23-30d6-4759-94f9-90b1642edbeb" CreationDate="2018-06-29T20:57:42.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30735" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="f81dbe05-e95c-4f11-ba96-59c977b41b6d" CreationDate="2018-06-29T21:57:42.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9404" RevisionGUID="4b869f4a-282a-4918-b095-b94ec3560a61" CreationDate="2018-06-30T08:55:37.753" UserId="4271" Text="Some routers have USB port for connecting storage device.I am searching for a (consumer/home) WiFi router which can download and seed torrent (directly to the storage device connected to the router via USB port) through router's UI or router management app(Android or ios app).i.e. Xiaomi mi router 3 can download torrent but cannot seed after completing download.Which router can also seed torrent after downloading. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30742" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9404" RevisionGUID="4b869f4a-282a-4918-b095-b94ec3560a61" CreationDate="2018-06-30T08:55:37.753" UserId="4271" Text="Which wifi router can download and seed torrent?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30743" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9404" RevisionGUID="4b869f4a-282a-4918-b095-b94ec3560a61" CreationDate="2018-06-30T08:55:37.753" UserId="4271" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9405" RevisionGUID="709c8929-4a40-4a0b-8e44-4fe858dcf1f9" CreationDate="2018-06-30T09:31:48.923" UserId="9474" Text=" - You can got a cheep android for £55. This can be configured to have a singe button to call you. Use multi users, so admin user configures the phone, and other user can not re-configure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Non-smart are cheaper, some of these will allow you to set a list of numbers that can be called. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Alternatively if you are in a close geographical area, then consider CB. This is a press to talk half-duplex radio system. Half-duplex means you can not listen and speak (or press button) at same-time. Therefore it does require training: If the remote operator keeps the button pressed, while waiting for a response from you, then they can not hear your pleas to release the button. You will also have to check current regulations, and range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever you do, test it on one device, before buying in bulk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9407" RevisionGUID="6bd5f4bc-e653-40a9-87ac-037268a62744" CreationDate="2018-06-30T13:29:44.820" UserId="9480" Text="I am currently looking for a laptop to use for university next year. I will be studying Computer Sciences and I am still debating which laptop I should get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These where the laptops I had in mind:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Dell XPS 15 9570** (€ 1.829,00)&#xD;&#xA;- i7-8750H processor (4,1 GHz; 6-cores) &#xD;&#xA;- 16 GB DDR4, 2.666 MHz &#xD;&#xA;- 512 GB M.2 2280 PCIe &#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050Ti 4 GB GDDR5 &#xD;&#xA;- 1920 x 1080 15'' display.&#xD;&#xA;- Up to 11h of battery life (97-Wh)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Asus ZenBook Pro UX550VD** (€1.599)&#xD;&#xA;- i7-7700HQ processor (3,8 GHz; 4-cores)&#xD;&#xA;- 16 GB SO-DIMM DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- 512 GB M.2 PCIe &#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050 4 GB GDDR5&#xD;&#xA;- 1920 x 1080 15'' display.&#xD;&#xA;- Up to 8h of battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The XPS has better battery life and has a better screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ZenBook is cheaper, has more ports but has an older processor and CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maby their is another laptop that is better. I would love to see different suggestions. Please note that since I am living in Belgium not every laptop is available here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for helping!&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30749" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9407" RevisionGUID="6bd5f4bc-e653-40a9-87ac-037268a62744" CreationDate="2018-06-30T13:29:44.820" UserId="9480" Text="Laptop for coding (XPS 15 vs ZenBook Pro)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30750" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9407" RevisionGUID="6bd5f4bc-e653-40a9-87ac-037268a62744" CreationDate="2018-06-30T13:29:44.820" UserId="9480" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30751" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="375f2cd5-3e22-4fab-a67f-0b35ef363d78" CreationDate="2018-06-30T21:59:41.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9408" RevisionGUID="4190ffac-39f4-4411-a2fb-2d94faa40aa2" CreationDate="2018-06-30T22:12:04.043" UserId="1937" Text="I have D-Link DUB-H7 with 7 ports. It works fine except I cannot use my external HDD with it. HDD clicks, but it seems not enough power. Connecting of 2nd HDD's wire doesn't help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30753" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9408" RevisionGUID="4190ffac-39f4-4411-a2fb-2d94faa40aa2" CreationDate="2018-06-30T22:12:04.043" UserId="1937" Text="What budget usb-hub with external power supply would can be used with external HDD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30754" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9408" RevisionGUID="4190ffac-39f4-4411-a2fb-2d94faa40aa2" CreationDate="2018-06-30T22:12:04.043" UserId="1937" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30755" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="8cc68950-5563-402f-a3fa-9fde23c719e5" CreationDate="2018-06-30T22:59:41.863" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30756" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="9de02766-9616-4f73-974b-ab14a440e945" CreationDate="2018-07-01T01:59:51.737" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30761" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="826ba79c-45cc-48ab-a0cc-44f4b9180776" CreationDate="2018-07-01T07:59:48.547" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9410" RevisionGUID="638669e3-593a-4fd1-805e-fb71801874de" CreationDate="2018-07-01T10:41:44.993" UserId="9372" Text="Since public landline telephone here has more or less all been switched to SIP now, it starts to make sense to use native SIP phones instead of plugging an analog or ISDN phone into a SIP PBX (such as FritzBox etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of these native SIP phones, I would like to try a wifi handset. This is a device looking much like a DECT handset, but instead of connecting to a base station via DECT (&quot;[IP-DECT][1]&quot; technology, using the [CAT-iq protocol][2]) it would connect via wifi. So, if there is a dependable wifi setup in the building, there's no need to add DECT coverage as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I can use any Android device with a SIP softphone app for this, but since people used to a &quot;proper&quot; phone in the household and not yet to smartphones really hate touchscreen phones, I rather need a single-purpose phone device with hardware buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I found several models, but all around 300 USD or more.** That sounds very strange, given that such a device is not more complex than a DECT handset available for 80 USD or less. Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP-DECT&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT-iq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30763" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9410" RevisionGUID="638669e3-593a-4fd1-805e-fb71801874de" CreationDate="2018-07-01T10:41:44.993" UserId="9372" Text="Affordable cordless SIP wifi phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30764" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9410" RevisionGUID="638669e3-593a-4fd1-805e-fb71801874de" CreationDate="2018-07-01T10:41:44.993" UserId="9372" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;&lt;voip&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9411" RevisionGUID="83d9dcb8-457a-4542-9c93-60c2fa1c7711" CreationDate="2018-07-01T11:20:46.310" UserId="9372" Text="Here is a list of all the models I looked through … and there will not be many others, as it's a very small market. So far, nothing that meets the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Mitel 5624.** Technically what you want, but indeed around 500 USD. Rare as well, so not easily available in used condition (I checked eBay). This is reportedly sold under many whitelabeled versions, so possibly one of these is available cheaply, esp. used when bargain hunting on eBay … but I doubt it):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  * Mitel 5624 / MiVoice 5624 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * Unify OpenStage WL3 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * Alcatel 8118/8128 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * (probably more)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Siemens OptiPoint WL2 PRO.** In addition, a programmer &quot;OpenStage DP1&quot; is needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Innovaphone IP62.** In addition, a base station for programming is needed (art. no. 50-00060-21, [source][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Unidata INCOM ICW-1000G.** Ca. 200 EUR new ([source][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Ascom i62 Talker.** New ca. 320 EUR incl. VAT ([source][4]). Sometimes available used via eBay (ca. 120 EUR in one case). In addition, the Ascom DP1 programmer is needed (ca. 140 EUR, [source][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Nokia with VoWifi feature.** [Reportedly][5], some old Nokia mobile phones (and these had hardware keys!) had a feature in their Symbian operating system that allowed to use them as a SIP client on wifi networks. Could not yet confirm this. If so, such phones are still available cheaply, and you could simply operate them without a SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Avaya 3616 / 3626.** Cheap (25 EUR used on eBay) but not suitable as it only supports WEP as wifi security mode ([source][6]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **BlueTinum BT-WFP1000.** Not suitable, as it is so old that it only supports WEP as wifi security mode ([source][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Cisco 7921G / 7921G / 7925G / 7926G.** Often cheaply available via eBay (≥20 EUR), but not suitable, as these are not SIP phones. They only support Cisco's propretary SCCP protocol, and there is no wifi SIP phone by Cisco ([source][8]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, this class of products looks like a rip-off currently. Either get used to a SIP softphone on an Android smartphone (perhaps with [screen pinning][9] to exclusively show the phone app), or get an IP-DECT based cordless SIP phone. These are available very cheaply used, for example (for Germany) Telekom Sinus 501 V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/wifi-telefon.291100/#post-2224918&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/siemens-openstage-wl3-alias-ascom-i62-in-heimischem-wlan-ein-erfahrungsbericht.259720/page-3#post-2239898&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://shop.voipdistri.com/VoIP-Telefone-IP-DECT/WLAN-IP-Telefone/INCOM-WLAN-VoIP-Telefon-INCOM-Wireless-IP-Telefon/INCOM-ICW-1000G-SIP-WLAN-Telefon-Wireless-VoIP-phone-Wireless-N.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.direct.de/ascom-i62-talker.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/wifi-calling-voice-over-wi-fi-wlan-call-telefonieren-%C3%BCber-wlan.286399/page-3#post-2280369&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://downloads.avaya.com/elmodocs2/comm_mgr/r2_0/245801_1_1/telephones/301107_1.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/bluetinum-bt-wfp1000-voip-wlan-telefon.285697/#post-2242499&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://supportforums.cisco.com/t5/wireless-ip-voice-and-video/when-will-7921g-7925-support-sip/td-p/2139613&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://gadgetguideonline.com/android/lollipop/how-to-use-screen-pinning-in-android-lollipop/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30766" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="b5de431e-1f3b-491d-b2a5-ecfeedd5ad6e" CreationDate="2018-07-01T11:59:54.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30770" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="bc4df617-1531-4c93-88ac-90b3e48be42f" CreationDate="2018-07-01T22:59:54.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30771" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="fa2a7bcc-5258-4b79-a778-90b1b5ef8dd9" CreationDate="2018-07-01T23:59:54.020" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30772" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8407" RevisionGUID="1635e66e-a0cd-477f-b363-f92c66ae0e47" CreationDate="2018-07-02T00:57:18.043" UserId="5445" Comment="added 91 characters in body" Text="I finally found a product that does what I want, the [OBi200](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUV7C9A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00BUV7C9A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=obihatechn-20).  It's $50, and it's not a phone, you still need to buy a home phone separately and plug it into it.  But you don't need to get a paid VOIP or SIP service at all.  All you need is Google Voice, which is free.  This solution allows you to make and receive unlimited domestic calls within the US for free.  (EDIT: You can also use it if you’re outside the US and want to make free calls to the US.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the set up is pretty straightforward, but one problem I ran into is that I couldn't receive calls at first. It turns out way to solve that problem is to go into Google Voice settings, and under &quot;Forward calls to&quot;, select &quot;Google Chat&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9413" RevisionGUID="9f0b21d7-8f9d-4fd4-9a90-56c665e9c13f" CreationDate="2018-07-02T04:00:36.033" UserId="5440" Text="You can get any of the routers which support the [Tomato Open-source Router Firmware][1]. This firmware includes in it the Transmission BitTorrent client which can do just about anything torrent...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend specifically the [**AdvancedTomato**][2] breed of the Tomato firmware which improves a lot in the UI and looks of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of routers it is available for https://advancedtomato.com/downloads, but if you want good performance take something - at least a bit - powerful. I think that the [**Netgear R7000**][3] or the [**ASUS RT-AC66U**][4] or pretty good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below is a screenshot of the BitTorrent Client section if the UI:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://tomato.groov.pl/?page_id=69&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://advancedtomato.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=d78e037eb09bcc95daa7652f6ba20ffe&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00NIQI1IG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=1a2b3c4d-20&amp;linkId=d9a42b74787caae55dec506b183047c7&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukDDI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30774" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="78505c80-63de-4275-b684-52c5e06ceb30" CreationDate="2018-07-02T06:59:54.960" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30775" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="6d984a80-2bf2-4014-a69c-25baaa6c36c3" CreationDate="2018-07-02T10:00:42.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30778" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3855" RevisionGUID="7af57d46-70aa-4d62-9a19-4b67c4d0ee5e" CreationDate="2018-07-02T13:08:57.503" UserId="47" Comment="fixed broken link" Text="What does exactly &quot;taking screenshots&quot; mean? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) You are using the tablet's camera while looking at the monitor, or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2)  capturing the tablet's screen (so that the page is rendered on the tablet itself?). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the first case, you could be better off with different kind of hardware (e.g. raspberry Pi with PiCamera which you can program at will). In the second case, you might open the tablet and put a heatsink on (again, Raspberry Pi heatsinks with self adhesive thermmally conductive tape would probably fit a tablet's SoC nicely). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, I think that having the consumer-grade tablet plugged in 24/7 is very hard on the tablet. As alternative, you could use professional-grade Android hardware, which is used for electronic cash registers, such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.customamerica.com/en_us/scheda-prodotto.jsp?codice=240&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(don't know about the specs of those, but I assume they are built do be plugged 24/7, I could be mistaken)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30779" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="3855" RevisionGUID="7af57d46-70aa-4d62-9a19-4b67c4d0ee5e" CreationDate="2018-07-02T13:08:57.503" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 57 edit id of 713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30780" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9407" RevisionGUID="0b9a037c-0798-4449-82aa-12c6aae9743b" CreationDate="2018-07-02T13:09:02.913" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30781" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9407" RevisionGUID="0b9a037c-0798-4449-82aa-12c6aae9743b" CreationDate="2018-07-02T13:09:02.913" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 57 edit id of 712" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30782" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9161" RevisionGUID="c32d78c2-5e0f-4822-96d3-454e435fdf69" CreationDate="2018-07-02T20:02:01.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30783" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="ce0ca63e-7d2a-4031-8f25-cfe084729620" CreationDate="2018-07-02T21:02:02.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="99e3889f-0a99-4125-aee9-673e20a1dcc2" CreationDate="2018-07-03T01:52:40.730" UserId="5449" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="I would like to install a battery pack on the bottom of 2017 13in MacBook Pro(I don't mind tapping it honestly).  Considering it charges by USB C I am hopefully this might not be to difficult.  I use my MacBook Pro while commuting but the battery doesn't last long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there isn't one of my Macbook Pro maybe my 13 Thinkpad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30788" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="b57edd56-18c6-4b64-b0c3-ad7b1befe562" CreationDate="2018-07-03T01:53:18.527" UserId="5449" Comment="74" />
  <row Id="30789" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="99e3889f-0a99-4125-aee9-673e20a1dcc2" CreationDate="2018-07-03T01:52:40.730" UserId="5449" Comment="added 62 characters in body" Text="13in Battery Thinkpad/MacBook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30790" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="ff99d318-06a8-4ef5-ab14-5c4268ab2d26" CreationDate="2018-07-03T02:02:17.070" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30791" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9415" RevisionGUID="938f4eca-7d76-4913-a7e1-e7e3a974fc0d" CreationDate="2018-07-03T05:14:17.557" UserId="9486" Text="I'm looking to build a robust system for malware research purposes and this is a requirement so I can absolutely trust that the system is clean on a reformat. Mobo firmware is locked down too of course and I already have a candidate for that but it's really really hard to find one for HDD. Likewise, I will never insert USB devices on this one (rolling full PS/2)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30792" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9415" RevisionGUID="938f4eca-7d76-4913-a7e1-e7e3a974fc0d" CreationDate="2018-07-03T05:14:17.557" UserId="9486" Text="Are there any HDD whose firmware can never be updated still being sold these days?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30793" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9415" RevisionGUID="938f4eca-7d76-4913-a7e1-e7e3a974fc0d" CreationDate="2018-07-03T05:14:17.557" UserId="9486" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30800" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="62b59167-3ae8-4c3e-b52e-f6ba7bf1fd84" CreationDate="2018-07-03T13:16:00.927" UserId="47" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30801" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="62b59167-3ae8-4c3e-b52e-f6ba7bf1fd84" CreationDate="2018-07-03T13:16:00.927" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 714" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30802" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9418" RevisionGUID="a0a376cb-fb6b-47be-a893-4188a9be824a" CreationDate="2018-07-03T14:51:01.893" UserId="7556" Text="# TL;DR: Get a [Celeron G3900](https://ark.intel.com/products/90741/Intel-Celeron-Processor-G3900-2M-Cache-2_80-GHz) instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although you are correct in that the [Xeon E3-1235L v5](https://ark.intel.com/products/88170/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1235L-v5-8M-Cache-2_00-GHz) and [Xeon E3-1240L v5](https://ark.intel.com/products/88169/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1240L-v5-8M-Cache-2_10-GHz) have the lowest rated TDP (both at 25W), I would recommend staying away from these processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Power consumption&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing to understand straight away is that under most conditions, the actual power consumption of the process will not be equal to the rated TDP. The rated TDP only measures the *maximum* thermal output the processor is capable–that is, under full load. For example, the [i7-6700K is rated for 91W](https://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz), but [only consumes 3.4W at idle.](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-11.html) **Note that this does not necessarily scale with rated TDP**: the i3-3240 and i7-3770K have vastly different rated TDPs, but both consume roughly the same amount of power at idle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing you've noticed is that L and T series processors [*can*](https://www.anandtech.com/show/3817/low-power-server-cpus-the-energy-saving-choice) consume significantly less power, even at idle/low load (although I'm not entirely sure what Intel does under the hood to do this.) However, this difference isn't necessarily huge–especially given their lower performance due to lower clocks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the nature of what you're doing, I wouldn't expect the CPU to be under full load most of the time, and therefore, I don't believe it makes sense to buy an L or T series processor given...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest L series v5 Xeon (the E3-1235L v5) has an MSRP of $250.00 (if you can find one at all.) Meanwhile, the [Celeron G3900](https://ark.intel.com/products/90741/Intel-Celeron-Processor-G3900-2M-Cache-2_80-GHz) is only [$30.61](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kxs8TW/intel-cpu-bx80662g3900) with a rated TDP of 51W. At the US average of $0.12/kWh, even at full load, it would take roughly **8 years** of continuous usage to offset the cost differential between the two processors. It simply doesn't make sense to buy a more expensive processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Compatibility&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The final nail in the coffin is that v5 Xeons simply aren't compatible with  motherboards with consumer chipsets–including B250. While you could get a lower TDP consumer CPU, the price differential (a delta of $67.38 as of right now for the cheapest T series processor, the [i3-7100T](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qXp323/intel-core-i3-7100t-34ghz-dual-core-processor-bx80677i37100t)) probably isn't worth it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30808" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="16230bd1-7650-4fa0-96e6-486ed36c2005" CreationDate="2018-07-03T20:05:06.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30809" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="0b570001-83a3-4361-bb52-7d02c9287604" CreationDate="2018-07-03T21:06:38.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="19061eed-6798-4b9f-8d33-23f774c7494a" CreationDate="2018-07-03T22:44:53.543" UserId="711" Text="I have a backpack full of heavy stuff, and a laptop that I don't want to break. I have noticed an outline of the keyboard on the screen, so it's clear I have too much weight in the wrong places. There are several scenarios that might break the laptop and/or it's screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Bending over while wearing the backpack.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Setting the backpack down, and then it falling over.&#xD;&#xA; 3. The weight pushing in the bottom side (as it sits in the backpack) of the laptop when I am carrying it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specifics of the laptop and bag are not substantially important, as solutions should be generic to apply to many different kinds of laptops and backpacks, and also to withstand the test of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reasoning for lots of heavy stuff in the backpack can vary substantially, and is therefore also not important.  For example, textbooks, auxiliary cables and equipment, bottles of water, tools, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most obvious answer might be &quot;stop carrying so much stuff&quot;.  However, that doesn't help if you've already removed as much stuff as possible from your bag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've thought of a few things that would help the situation, with wildly varying costs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Buy or build a semi-hard shell sleeve to put around the laptop before putting into the bag.  These shells usually use the zipper as part of their structural support, and are therefore pretty soft.&#xD;&#xA; - Buy a backpack with - or build a rigid compartment into - the backpack.&#xD;&#xA; - Transplant the laptop into a similarly sized Toughbook case.&#xD;&#xA; - Replace the bag with a harder laptop protection compartment&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Solutions apply(ies) to many different laptops, bags, etc.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Holds up to 40 - 50 lbs of weight&#xD;&#xA; 3. Weighs less than 3 lbs&#xD;&#xA; 4. Affordable: $50 or less&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to haves&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Low cost: $20 or less&#xD;&#xA; 2. Color options, or other customizability&#xD;&#xA; 3. Not made in China&#xD;&#xA; 4. Extremely lightweight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="19061eed-6798-4b9f-8d33-23f774c7494a" CreationDate="2018-07-03T22:44:53.543" UserId="711" Text="I carry a lot of stuff in my backpack. How can I protect my laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="19061eed-6798-4b9f-8d33-23f774c7494a" CreationDate="2018-07-03T22:44:53.543" UserId="711" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30821" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="acdb726f-daaa-40e1-be7a-2b769d5a84c9" CreationDate="2018-07-04T12:07:04.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30822" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="a05a236c-5f52-4125-84a9-69288cce848f" CreationDate="2018-07-04T13:30:07.617" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30823" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="a05a236c-5f52-4125-84a9-69288cce848f" CreationDate="2018-07-04T13:30:07.617" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 203, 711 edit id of 716" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30832" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="0a18e185-3a17-4505-9448-2a7a66f735fd" CreationDate="2018-07-04T22:50:58.023" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30833" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="363" RevisionGUID="0a18e185-3a17-4505-9448-2a7a66f735fd" CreationDate="2018-07-04T22:50:58.023" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 203, 8 edit id of 717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30834" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="befdc614-1c14-4a15-9e2f-1762f5755b40" CreationDate="2018-07-05T01:10:30.160" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="2c201494-d51b-4496-b24f-e61ad2ca6ffc" CreationDate="2018-07-05T02:10:26.760" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30837" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="0707906c-b97d-4c59-b013-90c953b2d05d" CreationDate="2018-07-05T04:10:26.850" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30841" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8500" RevisionGUID="e26e0cdf-24a4-4924-b4b6-e31d8efaf760" CreationDate="2018-07-05T11:15:28.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9426" RevisionGUID="28ba1172-93dc-4a0f-976b-21dede76d5a3" CreationDate="2018-07-05T12:02:09.517" UserId="9497" Text="I express my opinion about **GPU** for a designer and its workstation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Workstation graphic card is more efficient than gaming series for designing and rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTE**: Don't forget Quadro Nvidia graphics series or FirePro AMD series is more efficient instead of gaming series graphics such as Nvidia GTX. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;**NOTE**: But usually the Quadro series is more expensive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30843" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9426" RevisionGUID="500b4151-14cf-4a59-8d3e-477558dc77b2" CreationDate="2018-07-05T12:07:45.687" UserId="9497" Comment="added 195 characters in body" Text="I express my opinion about **GPU** for a designer and its workstation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Workstation graphic card is more efficient than gaming series for designing and rendering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So then I prefer to you buy a workstation series laptop (e.g. in HP workstation ZBook series, In ThinkPad workstation is P or W series and in Dell workstation is precision or latitude series)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTE**: Don't forget Quadro Nvidia graphics series or FirePro AMD series is more efficient instead of gaming series graphics such as Nvidia GTX. &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;**NOTE**: But usually the Quadro series is more expensive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30845" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9314" RevisionGUID="7c22215e-0954-423d-a513-37a1e8e51837" CreationDate="2018-07-05T13:34:26.290" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9427" RevisionGUID="25bc79be-769b-4832-953c-22862a10b913" CreationDate="2018-07-05T13:45:36.560" UserId="7556" Text="# There's nothing you should get for your MacBook (right now)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In doing my research, I found just two solutions that sort of have what you want. Both also focus on including more I/O, not just the battery. My guess is for a product of this nature, they'll all do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Linedock](https://www.linedock.co/) - $299&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At 71.61 Wh–146% of the MacBook 13&quot; built-in battery–this thing packs a pretty hefty punch. However, your wallet will also feel it. [Compared to other &quot;dumb&quot; battery banks with similar capacity](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Portable-Nintendo-Delivery/dp/B01MZ61PRW?tag=androidcentralb-20&amp;ascsubtag=UUacUdUnU52040YYwYg), it's a hefty price to pay. Sure, you get more I/O and (optionally) storage and a great form factor, but that's a lot of $$$. Note also that, while shaped like the MacBook, **it is not a case and does not sit flush with the MacBook**, and is much closer to a pad than a case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, note that this is an Indiegogo project, and so far, doesn't seem to have any reputable reviews or even confirmation of shipments as far as I can tell; it hasn't even finished shipping to backers. There's really no way I can recommend you buy this product at this stage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DEC](https://www.owcdigital.com/dec)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a beautiful product by a reputable manufacturer that basically does what the Linedock does, but better. Only issue: it really doesn't exist yet. There's no pricing, specs, or even delivery date. While [at least one prototype was created](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUe2KAwvZsA), it did not include a battery. You can't preorder it, and there's no way I'd recommend you do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Random battery banks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, as far as I could find, there aren't any plain battery banks that are even close to the form factor of a MacBook. Even sites making recommendations specifically for the MacBook at best just end up recommending slim battery banks like [this Aukey model](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-20000mAh-External-Charger-Nintendo/dp/B0759TDR3H/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1530798202&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=aukey+20000mah), and unless you want to carry one separately rather than affixed to your device, I can't seriously recommend one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Vpl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0GBf.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30849" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9428" RevisionGUID="2b68c246-c5ff-4b05-ab86-cf1c3934c1fd" CreationDate="2018-07-05T14:54:58.690" UserId="7556" Text="# Any of [these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=8&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1&amp;qq=1) cases (over 15 pages!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at an overhead view of the motherboard, it clearly shares the same mounting holes as mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure what case you were trying that didn't work; most cases these days have support for mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9428" RevisionGUID="af51b28b-98d1-4019-93f1-4f01a5d9b42f" CreationDate="2018-07-05T15:00:47.423" UserId="7556" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="**Just missed the small as possible bit, fixing it now**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Any of [these](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=8&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1&amp;qq=1) cases (over 15 pages!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at an overhead view of the motherboard, it clearly shares the same mounting holes as mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure what case you were trying that didn't work; most cases these days have support for mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30851" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9428" RevisionGUID="21fa3ac8-5924-475e-9098-753988b80161" CreationDate="2018-07-05T15:18:22.040" UserId="7556" Comment="added 7065 characters in body" Text="# Probably the Node 202 based on price, but making your own could be pretty cool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although really it depends how much you care about size vs. cost vs. your own time, since you're not exactly trying to cram a lot of hardware in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Compatibility&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at an overhead view of the motherboard, it clearly shares the same mounting holes as mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So any case with mITX support–such as any one from the the 15 pages [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=8&amp;xcx=0)–will work. Not sure what case you were trying that didn't work; most cases these days have support for mITX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Off the shelf cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like. Most of this is copied from my previous answer [here.](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8705/general-mini-itx-recommendations/8748#8748)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Very small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Dr. Zaber Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home)&#xD;&#xA;**$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. [They're apparently targeting Q1 2018](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833), but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NFC Skyreach 4 MINI](http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's the smallest case in this category. Note that video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed (a [$95 400W DC-DC](https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html) and a [$58 200W DC-DC](https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w)); however, these should be non-issues for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DAN A4-SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php)&#xD;&#xA;**$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Pretty small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [NCASE M1](https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1)&#xD;&#xA;**$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###[Fractal Design Node 202](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202)&#xD;&#xA;**[$80](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) or [$130 with a 450W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus), 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone FTZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533) [RVZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01), [RVZ02](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02), and [RVZ03](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03)&#xD;&#xA;**[$85](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) to [$130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b), 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Silverstone ML08](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607)&#xD;&#xA;**[$70](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b), 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mention&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat too, but much boxier. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Not as small cases&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're bigger with support for more things! They're also **much quieter.** Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [BitFenix Prodigy](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/)&#xD;&#xA;**[$60](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp), 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HardwareCanucks put it best:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI) It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Honorable mentions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Corsair 380T](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case) is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The [Silverstone CS01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b) is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The [Cougar QBX](https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/) and [Fractal Design Define Nano S](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window) are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Your own case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The great thing about building a PC is that you're free to use whatever components you'd like, including building your own! Because you're not trying to cram a lot of hardware in, if you're really bent on getting the smallest case possible, it might be worth looking at rolling your own. The off-the-shelf cases are created with the intention of being used with more &quot;normal&quot; motherboards and usually have to accommodate a PSU and GPU–things that aren't issues in your case. mITX is an open standard, and it doesn't take much to make a basic case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30853" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9312" RevisionGUID="1b01ab44-acdf-4479-a0b9-0b1a630c1aff" CreationDate="2018-07-05T16:15:32.193" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30854" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="57437b9e-ef62-4b13-8a09-9fac1a589ad6" CreationDate="2018-07-05T22:15:35.087" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30861" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="b51d0801-0ab5-462a-ad6b-039692240195" CreationDate="2018-07-06T18:21:23.603" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30865" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="5d89be6a-a602-4af4-b1d8-59aaf9d2bd1f" CreationDate="2018-07-06T23:21:26.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="cef7d15f-ac31-45c8-8913-37dc88e49f40" CreationDate="2018-07-07T14:07:52.943" UserId="9283" Text="So, my friend wants to start gaming. He told me he is really interested to try nintendo games, but he doesn't have a specific console in mind, so I think he should just get a PC, so that he has access to way more games. I visited [The Emulator Zone ][1] and took a look at the nintendo console emulators. They didn't seem all that difficult to run (At least not PS3 levels of difficulty). Despite that, I'm not that knowledgeable about emulation. Do you have any recommendations on what CPU he should get to be able to run the aforementioned emulators with no problem. We haven't set a specific budjet, so feel free to mention even a relatively expensive processor. (As always the cheaper the better) Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.emulator-zone.com/ &quot;The Emulator Zone&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="cef7d15f-ac31-45c8-8913-37dc88e49f40" CreationDate="2018-07-07T14:07:52.943" UserId="9283" Text="Nintendo Emulation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="cef7d15f-ac31-45c8-8913-37dc88e49f40" CreationDate="2018-07-07T14:07:52.943" UserId="9283" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30874" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="d89b2bdc-307b-4a71-81e4-f77ee77ce657" CreationDate="2018-07-07T16:24:05.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="4efce8bb-4f5f-4426-b841-8922a1296c93" CreationDate="2018-07-08T06:00:32.190" UserId="9506" Text="I am a graduate student and My thesis is based on deep learning, vision, video and Image processing. I am going to do heavy computing and processing. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU with 1 TFOPS would be a good choice. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. do you have any recommendations? Are there any websites that introduce the best laptops? and new technologies?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30881" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="4efce8bb-4f5f-4426-b841-8922a1296c93" CreationDate="2018-07-08T06:00:32.190" UserId="9506" Text="laptops which are suitable for heavy Image and video processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30882" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="4efce8bb-4f5f-4426-b841-8922a1296c93" CreationDate="2018-07-08T06:00:32.190" UserId="9506" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9434" RevisionGUID="d2673d4f-4986-4ec2-9a50-7acb047894d5" CreationDate="2018-07-08T12:35:27.033" UserId="1921" Text="https://www.dell.com/en-us/gaming/alienware-laptops?~ck=mn&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alienware has gaming laptops which have the best GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/new-alienware-17/spd/alienware-17-laptop/dkcwcflg044&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could contact them if you wanted more, but cost goes through the roof." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30884" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="abab8ffe-3a2d-4912-a565-e58c415f8c86" CreationDate="2018-07-08T14:29:55.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30885" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="a33e64b1-e645-4669-a5fe-b0e480b29feb" CreationDate="2018-07-08T15:29:55.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30889" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="674bf182-6c44-4399-b413-dbeaed4a94b4" CreationDate="2018-07-08T18:07:01.007" UserId="9506" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="I am a graduate student and My thesis is based on deep learning, vision, video and Image processing. I am going to do heavy computing and processing. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU with 1 TFOPS would be a good choice. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. do you have any recommendations? Are there any websites that introduce the best laptops? and new technologies?&#xD;&#xA;which one do you think is the best &quot;HP, DELL, Microsoft or Acer&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30890" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="3de6c004-0678-45f9-8314-21531f1b9f5d" CreationDate="2018-07-08T19:32:37.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30891" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="de22d58e-aefd-4b0a-b1a4-6d38afa2d405" CreationDate="2018-07-09T00:33:54.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30896" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9436" RevisionGUID="8074a24d-e16c-467d-9c25-0727e6b60acf" CreationDate="2018-07-09T10:06:54.187" UserId="7889" Text="I'm looking for a cheap solution that provides the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have that the customers can swap through our range of products in the local store and when they want to know more of a product, they can click on it and more information will be provided. Hence, a video/trailer to implement would also be nice.&#xD;&#xA;A regular windows OS could be do it but I don't want the customers to go into settings and so on by accident. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size screen is probably ok when &gt;=15&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;Is there any hardware (and/or combined with software) which fulfills this? Let it be something around 100-200 €." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30897" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9436" RevisionGUID="8074a24d-e16c-467d-9c25-0727e6b60acf" CreationDate="2018-07-09T10:06:54.187" UserId="7889" Text="touch screen / terminal / computer for customers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30898" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9436" RevisionGUID="8074a24d-e16c-467d-9c25-0727e6b60acf" CreationDate="2018-07-09T10:06:54.187" UserId="7889" Text="&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30899" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9402" RevisionGUID="900c33cc-90e5-4e21-b8d0-c82420cadda6" CreationDate="2018-07-09T11:48:55.477" UserId="5449" Comment="74" />
  <row Id="30900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9437" RevisionGUID="4ec8528f-f9b7-4aa8-bd53-6fb9046d65b6" CreationDate="2018-07-09T12:27:06.237" UserId="7075" Text="I've had [this](https://www.insight.com/en_US/buy/product/43R2482/LENOVO/43R2482/Lenovo-ThinkPad-Business-Backpack--notebook-carrying-backpack/) backpack a while ago and I think it has a special compartment for a laptop which is made out of a protective material. It has many more compartments, only bad thing is that the biggest laptop it can fit in it is 15.6&quot;. I've carried 25ibs in it with no problem, though I've never tried carrying 50ibs. It is a bit over your budget(60$ on the official page) but you can probably find it for less on Amazon or sites like that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9439" RevisionGUID="2e4c8770-8227-46b9-adef-e1102988c00b" CreationDate="2018-07-09T16:40:34.127" UserId="9513" Text="It's simple to find a multi-port USB 3.0 hub, where one USB-3 port becomes 4-10 equivalent ports, like [this one][1]. Does this kind of product exist with 100% USB-C ports? That is, when connected to a single USB-C port on my computer, the hub should provide 4-10 **USB-C** ports that provide *exactly the same capabilities* as the original port on my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By &quot;exactly the same capabilities,&quot; I mean that my computer's ports work with monitors and AC power adapters, so the ports on the hub should also work with monitors and AC power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's easy to find USB-C hubs that provide HDMI, USB-3, Ethernet, a single charging port, etc., but I've never seen a hub like I describe above. If none exists, is there a technological reason why? (Or is it just due to sales/marketing?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GX4BG/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30907" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9439" RevisionGUID="2e4c8770-8227-46b9-adef-e1102988c00b" CreationDate="2018-07-09T16:40:34.127" UserId="9513" Text="Do any USB-C hubs include 4-10 USB-C ports with same capabilities as original port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30908" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9439" RevisionGUID="2e4c8770-8227-46b9-adef-e1102988c00b" CreationDate="2018-07-09T16:40:34.127" UserId="9513" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30913" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="dc08060b-209d-44cb-a790-c44cc6f5b915" CreationDate="2018-07-09T21:19:03.627" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30916" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9420" RevisionGUID="09f7616e-cddc-47c4-bc2a-3fd7bde225e4" CreationDate="2018-07-09T21:42:37.020" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30917" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="02ba462c-4ec3-47dc-b4ba-90a81056db1d" CreationDate="2018-07-09T22:43:53.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9440" RevisionGUID="ae4d28d5-59c5-4f06-81c1-a5364db2d8ff" CreationDate="2018-07-10T08:30:53.760" UserId="6328" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to test some applications that need stereo inputs. Similiar to this dual camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/ELP-Megapixel-Camera-Module-Biometric/dp/B00VG32EC2//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=albertarmeabl-20&amp;linkId=bc5b4947de2850d5a0cec76d2c6a9760&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please recommend a hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The images should be synced and if possible should be able to send 30 fps ( for 2 cameras 60 fps ). It should have a USB 3.0 connection for fast data transfer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30919" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9440" RevisionGUID="ae4d28d5-59c5-4f06-81c1-a5364db2d8ff" CreationDate="2018-07-10T08:30:53.760" UserId="6328" Text="dual cam for stereo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30920" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9440" RevisionGUID="ae4d28d5-59c5-4f06-81c1-a5364db2d8ff" CreationDate="2018-07-10T08:30:53.760" UserId="6328" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9441" RevisionGUID="7474b0e8-9577-4986-9a1f-e4bbbaafbe37" CreationDate="2018-07-10T10:36:59.110" UserId="5440" Text="If not for the price limit I would've told you to go with at-least something like the [**MSI GT63 TITAN-046**][1], which is over $2500... Or even [**this Asus&#xD;&#xA;ROG STRIX**][2] for $1,719.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your budget, though I think the best you can get is the **Acer Predator** with an **NVIDIA GTX 1070**. Available in both a [**15-inch screen size**][3] as well as a [**17-inch model**][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/GT63-TITAN-046-i7-8750H-Windows-Notebook/dp/B07CDD2259/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=dbtrer6urvt6u5rey5s-20&amp;linkId=d1bdb29b895ddf676aac632f8f91f22d&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/GL702VI-Gaming-Laptop-2-8GHz-Processor/dp/B078HRSQLW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B078HRSQLW&amp;pd_rd_r=5a66a7de-842a-11e8-9f96-9391f60fc1b0&amp;pd_rd_w=uFLws&amp;pd_rd_wg=YxWOv&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=5825442648805390339&amp;pf_rd_r=QNP8Y7Z1T4ZDDENAXV4W&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QNP8Y7Z1T4ZDDENAXV4W&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=dbtrer6urvt6u5rey5s-20&amp;linkId=755103b97996adea3c7827bd670df6a8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://amzn.to/2J9xYwy&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/2NE252A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30922" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="82726fc2-15c1-4034-afda-e0d55d75e341" CreationDate="2018-07-10T11:02:53.450" UserId="9283" Comment="added 343 characters in body" Text="So, my friend wants to start gaming. He told me he is really interested to try nintendo games, but he doesn't have a specific console in mind, so I think he should just get a PC, so that he has access to way more games. I visited [The Emulator Zone ][1] and took a look at the nintendo console emulators. They didn't seem all that difficult to run (At least not PS3 levels of difficulty). Despite that, I'm not that knowledgeable about emulation. Do you have any recommendations on what CPU he should get to be able to run the aforementioned emulators with no problem. We haven't set a specific budjet, so feel free to mention even a relatively expensive processor. (As always the cheaper the better) Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: The target resolution is 1080p and a frame rate of 30FPS would be just fine. I'll probably give him my graphics card (Gigabyte 1050Ti Windforce OC) after I upgrade and I don't think we'll start building his PC any sooner. The only component I need help with is the processor. &#xD;&#xA;The PC needs to be able to emulate all Nintendo consoles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.emulator-zone.com/ &quot;The Emulator Zone&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30923" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9442" RevisionGUID="292a57a5-ea2d-4cf5-838a-6d32a7769d4a" CreationDate="2018-07-10T12:29:52.263" UserId="9084" Text="I think your problem is probably more price range than anything else.  The touchscreen monitor is the expense, and takes up a large portion of your budget. [For instance, this one takes up half your budget, and it's an inexpensive option by your requirements.](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-inches-Touch-Screen-Monitor/dp/B07586J8P7/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531225322&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=touchscreen+monitor+15+inch&amp;dpID=51pVcsF5x6L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)  Another one [takes up much more.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 8 - 10 has the ability to run as a Kiosk, and you can find some [tutorials to teach you how to set it up that way.][2]  This will handle your worries about user access. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may wish to consider the less expensive option of using [QR Codes][3].  QR codes next to your product allows anyone with a smartphone that can read a barcode (which is pretty much all of them) to auto-link to a website of your choosing.  Ideally, this is your website that has been programmed, made adaptive to mobile, and hosted for you, to which your in-store screens would probably have been pointing, anyway.  This gives you less to maintain, less up-front expense, and when bored children start playing with screens, it will be their own screens or those of their parents and not your expensive product terminals. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Screen-15-Inch-POS-TouchScreen-Monitor/dp/B007948V24/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531225322&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=touchscreen%20monitor%2015%20inch&amp;dpID=41bXd1FQbWL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-AEZUJx9Bg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QR_code" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9444" RevisionGUID="62393827-9179-4653-a19b-43bfda8a8384" CreationDate="2018-07-10T13:57:17.400" UserId="7556" Text="# [Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra-Slim Portable Data Hub with 12W Power Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-Portable-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531230773&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=powered+usb+hub) - $16.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the fact that your HDD is intended to work with simply a single USB 2.0 port, I'm going to assume that it's simply a bit of a power consumption issue and a simple powered USB hub will fix your issues. There's [a wide variety of USB hubs available](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=powered+usb+hub&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apowered+usb+hub), but this one is by a reputable manufacturer, comes in a nice form factor, works with or without power, uses USB to deliver additional power, supports USB 3.0, and is fairly cheap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4f4Lw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30926" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="ca3df6e7-160f-46f2-aedb-f64e22003585" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:02:46.437" UserId="60" Comment="Restructured the question." Text="So, my friend wants to start gaming. He told me he is really interested to try Nintendo games, but he doesn't have a specific console in mind. I suggested he should just get a PC, so that he has access to way more games. I visited [The Emulator Zone ][1] and took a look at the Nintendo console emulators. They didn't seem all that difficult to run, but I'm not that knowledgeable about emulation. The PC needs to be able to emulate all Nintendo consoles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The target resolution is 1080p with a frame rate of 30FPS. I'll probably give him my graphics card (Gigabyte 1050Ti Windforce OC) after I upgrade. The only component I need help with is the processor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendations on what CPU he should get to be able to run the aforementioned emulators with no problems? We haven't set a specific budget, so feel free to mention even a relatively expensive processor. (As always the cheaper the better)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.emulator-zone.com/ &quot;The Emulator Zone&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30927" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="ca3df6e7-160f-46f2-aedb-f64e22003585" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:02:46.437" UserId="60" Comment="Restructured the question." Text="CPU for Nintendo Emulation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30928" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="ca3df6e7-160f-46f2-aedb-f64e22003585" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:02:46.437" UserId="60" Comment="Restructured the question." Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30929" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9431" RevisionGUID="27c4da73-fc89-422d-baae-2b03b348c57f" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:02:46.863" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9084,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;CDove&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="30934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9446" RevisionGUID="aea7df38-3902-488e-a0b2-2b1e31642b46" CreationDate="2018-07-10T18:03:42.633" UserId="9084" Text="Switch emulation isn't quite a thing yet, but Nintendo has always been pretty emulation-friendly as far as minimum requirements.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your target software is probably the Dolphin emulator, since it covers a breadth of Nintendo emulators.    NES, GB, GBC, and SNES (including SGB adaptation) are simple emulation on any modern machine, and it won't really matter what you have. I wouldn't recommend less than an i5 processor for N64, GBA, or 3DS. A 1050Ti should be just fine as far as video card here.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you get into the GC, Wii, and Wii-U, you're going to need more RAM. An i7 or higher-end AMD processor wouldn't be a bad idea, either.  Emulating these systems is significantly more demanding and usually has hooks that make use of your hardware a bit more instead of just isolated emulation.  I got almost flawless performance in all games up through the GC and some Wii games on an i7-2600k with 16GB of RAM and a GTX 760, so your hardware picks should still be fine.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seeing as you can get an i7 for not much more than an i5 these days, I'd definitely go that route. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30935" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7903" RevisionGUID="347c613c-bc6a-4565-a7da-6001ba75f1fc" CreationDate="2018-07-10T22:46:58.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30938" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="59a0c163-d284-45e7-b50c-4a499a96cb1a" CreationDate="2018-07-10T23:47:00.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30942" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="faef6ea4-a13e-4403-9d0d-f386b92fa819" CreationDate="2018-07-11T00:47:00.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="7aa2a911-43e1-4b43-8427-5424bac2c10a" CreationDate="2018-07-11T03:51:19.547" UserId="9506" Text=" I am going to do heavy computing and processing like programming. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched and found these laptops, which one do you think is the best?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell:  New XPS 15:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;We understand that the only difference between these two is the display.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft:&#xD;&#xA;Surface Laptop (Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB) - Graphite Gold - DAL-00019:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer G3-572-72YF Predator Helios 300 15.6&quot; 16GB RAM 1TB Plus 256GB Laptop&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][2]&#xD;&#xA;Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop: Core i7-7700HQ, GeForce GTX 1060 6GB, 17.3&quot; Full HD, 16GB DDR4, 256GB SSD + 1TB HDD, Backlit Keyboard, VR Ready&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][3]&#xD;&#xA;Acer NH.GXEAA.003 17.3&quot; Full HD Ips Laptop, Ci7-8750H/ 16GB/256SSD + 1TB GTX 1060 6GB:&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][4]&#xD;&#xA;HP: 	&#xD;&#xA;OMEN by HP 17-w018ca Notebook PC, i7-6700HQ, 2.6GHz, 2 TB, BLK&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15.6&quot; ZBook 15 G4 Premium Mobile Workstation (Intel i7-7700HQ Quad-Core, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 15.6&quot; Matte Full HD 1920 x 1080, NVIDIA Quadro M1200 4GB, Thunderbolt 3, Win 10 Pro)&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP ProBook 470 G5 17.3'' Premium Business Laptop PC (Intel 8th Gen i7 Quad Core Processor, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 17.3&quot; HD 1600x900 Display, NVIDIA GeForce 930MX, USB-C, WiFi, BT, Win 10 Pro)  &#xD;&#xA;(P-SPEES)&#xD;&#xA;[enter link description here][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-ca/shop/compare?ocs=nxps1570_bt_s1656e,nxps1570_bt_s1661e&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-G3-572-72YF-Predator-Helios-Laptop/dp/B073JXKL4R/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531252319&amp;sr=1-1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-Predator-Helios-Gaming-Laptop/dp/B075MRVLB1/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531252319&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.ca/HP-17-w018ca-Notebook-i7-6700HQ-2-6GHz/dp/B01M0L5BQ8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253277&amp;sr=1-14&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.ca/HP-Workstation-i7-7700HQ-Quad-Core-Thunderbolt/dp/B07CCYRFWQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253771&amp;sr=1-6&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.ca/HP-ProBook-Business-Processor-1600x900/dp/B07B5Y5RGB/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531250221&amp;sr=1-7&amp;th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30944" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="7aa2a911-43e1-4b43-8427-5424bac2c10a" CreationDate="2018-07-11T03:51:19.547" UserId="9506" Text="which laptop suites heavy programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30945" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="7aa2a911-43e1-4b43-8427-5424bac2c10a" CreationDate="2018-07-11T03:51:19.547" UserId="9506" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;3d-display&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30946" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="58d0543c-1e41-40d8-9f13-275de7a5aa53" CreationDate="2018-07-11T03:57:03.247" UserId="9506" Comment="deleted 129 characters in body" Text=" I am going to do heavy computing and processing like programming. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched and found these laptops, which one do you think is the best?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell:  New XPS 15:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-ca/shop/compare?ocs=nxps1570_bt_s1656e,nxps1570_bt_s1661e&#xD;&#xA;We understand that the only difference between these two is the display.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft:&#xD;&#xA;Surface Laptop (Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB) - Graphite Gold - DAL-00019:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer G3-572-72YF Predator Helios 300 15.6&quot; 16GB RAM 1TB Plus 256GB Laptop&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-G3-572-72YF-Predator-Helios-Laptop/dp/B073JXKL4R/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531252319&amp;sr=1-1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop: Core i7-7700HQ, GeForce GTX 1060 6GB, 17.3&quot; Full HD, 16GB DDR4, 256GB SSD + 1TB HDD, Backlit Keyboard, VR Ready&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-Predator-Helios-Gaming-Laptop/dp/B075MRVLB1/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531252319&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer NH.GXEAA.003 17.3&quot; Full HD Ips Laptop, Ci7-8750H/ 16GB/256SSD + 1TB GTX 1060 6GB:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-NH-GXEAA-003-Laptop-Ci7-8750H-256SSD/dp/B07DB43B8R/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531252319&amp;sr=1-5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP: 	&#xD;&#xA;OMEN by HP 17-w018ca Notebook PC, i7-6700HQ, 2.6GHz, 2 TB, BLK&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-17-w018ca-Notebook-i7-6700HQ-2-6GHz/dp/B01M0L5BQ8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253277&amp;sr=1-14&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15.6&quot; ZBook 15 G4 Premium Mobile Workstation (Intel i7-7700HQ Quad-Core, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 15.6&quot; Matte Full HD 1920 x 1080, NVIDIA Quadro M1200 4GB, Thunderbolt 3, Win 10 Pro)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-Workstation-i7-7700HQ-Quad-Core-Thunderbolt/dp/B07CCYRFWQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253771&amp;sr=1-6&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP ProBook 470 G5 17.3'' Premium Business Laptop PC (Intel 8th Gen i7 Quad Core Processor, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 17.3&quot; HD 1600x900 Display, NVIDIA GeForce 930MX, USB-C, WiFi, BT, Win 10 Pro)  &#xD;&#xA;(P-SPEES)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-ProBook-Business-Processor-1600x900/dp/B07B5Y5RGB/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531250221&amp;sr=1-7&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9449" RevisionGUID="f05b6957-e9c7-40c9-a4c3-115448725049" CreationDate="2018-07-11T13:32:55.423" UserId="9519" Text="I'm looking to replace my Nokia 1280 with a phone that supports U.S. bands as well as European ones. So basically I need an STN LCD monochrome display (better readability in direct sunlight), voice/SMS capacity and a large battery. Any advice? Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30950" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9449" RevisionGUID="f05b6957-e9c7-40c9-a4c3-115448725049" CreationDate="2018-07-11T13:32:55.423" UserId="9519" Text="Basic GSM phone with a monochrome display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30951" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9449" RevisionGUID="f05b6957-e9c7-40c9-a4c3-115448725049" CreationDate="2018-07-11T13:32:55.423" UserId="9519" Text="&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30952" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="07a3ae86-4265-4470-868b-ee1c6b4c908d" CreationDate="2018-07-12T02:13:13.600" UserId="9506" Comment="deleted 701 characters in body" Text=" I am going to do heavy computing and processing like programming. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched and found these laptops, which one do you think is the best?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell:  New XPS 15:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-ca/shop/compare?ocs=nxps1570_bt_s1656e,nxps1570_bt_s1661e&#xD;&#xA;We understand that the only difference between these two is the display.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft:&#xD;&#xA;Surface Laptop (Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB) - Graphite Gold - DAL-00019:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP: 	&#xD;&#xA;OMEN by HP 17-w018ca Notebook PC, i7-6700HQ, 2.6GHz, 2 TB, BLK&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-17-w018ca-Notebook-i7-6700HQ-2-6GHz/dp/B01M0L5BQ8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253277&amp;sr=1-14&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15.6&quot; ZBook 15 G4 Premium Mobile Workstation (Intel i7-7700HQ Quad-Core, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 15.6&quot; Matte Full HD 1920 x 1080, NVIDIA Quadro M1200 4GB, Thunderbolt 3, Win 10 Pro)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-Workstation-i7-7700HQ-Quad-Core-Thunderbolt/dp/B07CCYRFWQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531253771&amp;sr=1-6&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP ProBook 470 G5 17.3'' Premium Business Laptop PC (Intel 8th Gen i7 Quad Core Processor, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD + 512GB SSD, 17.3&quot; HD 1600x900 Display, NVIDIA GeForce 930MX, USB-C, WiFi, BT, Win 10 Pro)  &#xD;&#xA;(P-SPEES)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/HP-ProBook-Business-Processor-1600x900/dp/B07B5Y5RGB/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1531250221&amp;sr=1-7&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30953" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9449" RevisionGUID="df59a75c-41ae-4c53-afbb-24c8c766ba50" CreationDate="2018-07-12T13:53:25.757" UserId="9519" Comment="added 378 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to replace my Nokia 1280 with a phone that supports U.S. bands as well as European ones.&#xA;&#xA;- An STN LCD monochrome display (better readability in direct sunlight)&#xA;&#xA;- A sufficiently large battery. It depends on the power consumption of the phone, though: my N1280 phone has a 800mAh battery and I'm perfectly happy with the standby time it provides (~10-12 days).&#xA;&#xA;- Quad-band: the reason I'm seeking to upgrade is that N1280 does not support American GSM bands.&#xA;&#xA;- That's basically it; I only need the phone to be able to send/receive SMS and make phone calls. The SMS memory size doesn't matter.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Any advice? Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9450" RevisionGUID="db63d6ee-4e93-4710-b3b9-6010219e2fbc" CreationDate="2018-07-12T15:40:51.750" UserId="9524" Text="Most male to male cables are meant to connect two active devices - I have some keystone jacks with female ports on both sides, so I just need male to male cable that behaves as a normal extension cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most cables of this types seem to be the first type that swaps the data pairs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;cable details: in USB 3.0 cables, there are 9 wires; 4 of them are standard USB 2.0 wires and there are 5 more wires - ground wire and 2 pairs of data cables&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;in some Male to Male cables, the data wire pairs are swapped (so the pins in one connector are connected to the opposite pins in the other connector) - I need a cable that does NOT do this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9450" RevisionGUID="db63d6ee-4e93-4710-b3b9-6010219e2fbc" CreationDate="2018-07-12T15:40:51.750" UserId="9524" Text="Where to buy male to male USB 3.0 extension cable that doesn't swap Transmit and Receive pairs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9450" RevisionGUID="db63d6ee-4e93-4710-b3b9-6010219e2fbc" CreationDate="2018-07-12T15:40:51.750" UserId="9524" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9451" RevisionGUID="99d44bf5-da1f-4820-a218-ed06da9d79f8" CreationDate="2018-07-12T19:10:15.820" UserId="6047" Text="As I said earlier if you are going to choose from your list the Dell XPS configuration is best positioned to suit your needs as it has the best processor among your choices. However, I think that it is a bit overvalued, and thus; I was able to beat out your prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some laptops you could purchase today that are more than enough for programming and computing. I also fit in some pretty decent desktop GPUs since I'm not really close to stretching your budget. Each option includes a 1 TB HDD, and blazing fast 128 GB NVMe SSDs. You could also play triple A games on these laptops without two much trouble, so heavy 3D game development should be a breeze on these laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that the shipping for the laptops are free, and as far as I could tell there shouldn't be any customs import fees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL62M 7RDX-NE1050i5 $899.99 CAD (MSRP: $1,049.99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL62M 7RDX-NE1050i5][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Discrete NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 **2 GB** GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; - i5 7300HQ, you can Upgrade to the i7 variant for +$150&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop should meet your needs if you're looking to save money. The i7 variant of this computer will give you about [47% more multi-core performance according to user benchmarks][3] and may be worth the upgrade for your usage scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL Series GL63 8RC-068 $1,469.99 CAD (MSRP: $1,499.99)][4]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL Series GL63 8RC-068][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1050 **4 GB** GDDR5&#xD;&#xA; - i7 8750H&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This option has a lot more RAM that you are unlikely to come close to filling up unless you like running multiple virtual machines alongside a heavy IDE, even then you won't fill that up. **The [i7 8750H benchmarks][6] suggests that it will outperform the i7 7700HQ by 31% in general use scenarios and 53% in multi-core scenarios making it the better option for heavy computing.** In addition, should you want it, you can select this configuration to have a GTX 1050 Ti for +$130 dollars if you feel so inclined. [The benchmarks for the 1050 Ti][7] suggest an improvement of about +14% in FPS over the non-titan variant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154734&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLR5G.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-Intel-Core-i5-7300HQ/m211019vsm223877&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154821&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDQnS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-Intel-Core-i7-8750H/m211019vsm470418&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050/3649vs3650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30958" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="aee090e2-ac3f-4598-a543-e34b1db23405" CreationDate="2018-07-12T21:04:27.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30959" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="cd5bd090-f134-4c92-8ee9-f0541f1ca6db" CreationDate="2018-07-12T21:32:13.897" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;3d-display&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30960" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="cd5bd090-f134-4c92-8ee9-f0541f1ca6db" CreationDate="2018-07-12T21:32:13.897" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 9506 edit id of 718" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30961" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="46006fd3-d3e5-4b88-b66b-fbebf4abc2e5" CreationDate="2018-07-12T22:24:58.117" UserId="9506" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="I am a graduate student and My thesis is based on deep learning, vision, video and Image processing. I am going to do heavy computing and processing. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU with 1 TFOPS would be a good choice. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. do you have any recommendations? Are there any websites that introduce the best laptops? and new technologies?&#xD;&#xA;which one do you think is the best &quot;HP, DELL, Microsoft or Acer&quot;?&#xD;&#xA;I have chosen laptops could you please tell me which one is the best?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9448/which-laptop-suites-heavy-programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30967" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="233b3845-ca94-478f-8826-3ba91e810811" CreationDate="2018-07-13T18:18:32.010" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30970" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9453" RevisionGUID="696bd7ec-60f4-455a-851f-f7bdbec7ac9d" CreationDate="2018-07-13T21:53:58.397" UserId="4963" Text="I bought a sim card from an mobile provider, and I can use it as a hotspot, using my cellphone. So, I can make my cellphone into a hotspot router, using this sim card. Do you have some recommendations on which router (a proper piece of hardware, not a cellphone) would work with 4G sim card, as a hotspot router?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30971" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9453" RevisionGUID="696bd7ec-60f4-455a-851f-f7bdbec7ac9d" CreationDate="2018-07-13T21:53:58.397" UserId="4963" Text="Is it possible to make a router with 4G out of a sim card, and how?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30972" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9453" RevisionGUID="696bd7ec-60f4-455a-851f-f7bdbec7ac9d" CreationDate="2018-07-13T21:53:58.397" UserId="4963" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30973" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="0ff82691-6dff-40e2-86f8-f165f6a0f922" CreationDate="2018-07-14T02:27:04.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9454" RevisionGUID="bd0c17c7-2964-4e81-877f-fce7c57be1d6" CreationDate="2018-07-14T06:12:52.250" UserId="9506" Text="I am looking for a laptop which has 1 TFOPS. could you pls clarify it for me?  I just want to know that how can I make sure a laptop has 1 TFOPS in it or not?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30975" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9454" RevisionGUID="bd0c17c7-2964-4e81-877f-fce7c57be1d6" CreationDate="2018-07-14T06:12:52.250" UserId="9506" Text="How should I make sure a laptop's CUDA has enabled with 1TFOPS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30976" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9454" RevisionGUID="bd0c17c7-2964-4e81-877f-fce7c57be1d6" CreationDate="2018-07-14T06:12:52.250" UserId="9506" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30978" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="308f732d-c5d4-4fbc-89fa-7054b435964d" CreationDate="2018-07-14T07:27:15.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30979" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="b7c8ee44-1978-4e1a-8685-aba92d9f100a" CreationDate="2018-07-14T08:27:17.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9458" RevisionGUID="8d338e5b-637b-4936-8610-677db1c8c785" CreationDate="2018-07-14T18:17:19.287" UserId="9394" Text="I recently purchased Inland 3.5&quot; USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure with Fan. (SKU 410464). I like the $25.00 price, the sturdy full metal built chassi/case and the fact that it has a fan. It's not too bad, but I wish there was a similar product available which had 2 of the following attributes/features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The SATA cables and the board are openly exposed, making them prone to damage, I wish if there was a way to just snap my hard drive in the enclosure, I'm afraid that the cables would be damaged faster if I need to change hdd drives more frequently&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I wish it had a support for 2.5&quot; drives, but I guess I can easily work around this issue by using a adapter bay to use 2.5 HDD inside 3.5 enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend an enclosure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9458" RevisionGUID="8d338e5b-637b-4936-8610-677db1c8c785" CreationDate="2018-07-14T18:17:19.287" UserId="9394" Text="2-in-1 HDD Enclosure with Fan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9458" RevisionGUID="8d338e5b-637b-4936-8610-677db1c8c785" CreationDate="2018-07-14T18:17:19.287" UserId="9394" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30994" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="88f9f279-cc4a-4617-a990-5393d5df255e" CreationDate="2018-07-14T23:29:29.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="30995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9460" RevisionGUID="5358b785-4791-4f7a-bd2b-7bac86340976" CreationDate="2018-07-14T23:53:53.060" UserId="9531" Text="Projects like Dosbox, Virtualbox and PCem allows me to emulate PC's of the 1990's, but for Windows 95-XP era games, the compatibility and performance is underwhelming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried on several occasions to install Windows 98 2. edition on modern hardware and usually it either fails - or, if it succeeds, becomes a very poor experience, because Windows will only run in 16 color mode, 640x480, no sound, no networking, no nothing. Basically, I need drivers and current hardware understandably comes without Windows 98 drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the question is: Are you aware of any current hardware available that is backwards compatible with Windows 98?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This means it would either come with Windows 98 drivers, which is probably unlikely... or be compatible with some the drivers built into Windows 98, which *may* be likely?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30996" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9460" RevisionGUID="5358b785-4791-4f7a-bd2b-7bac86340976" CreationDate="2018-07-14T23:53:53.060" UserId="9531" Text="Hardware to run Windows 98" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30997" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9460" RevisionGUID="5358b785-4791-4f7a-bd2b-7bac86340976" CreationDate="2018-07-14T23:53:53.060" UserId="9531" Text="&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31000" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="5c326504-2cf3-4d59-9fc0-c2ea2b76c4dc" CreationDate="2018-07-15T07:37:18.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31001" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="7b733f22-93ab-4b03-ae79-b462e15c584d" CreationDate="2018-07-15T12:40:07.287" UserId="-1" />
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  <row Id="31005" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="23cff3c0-b069-48ff-87d9-ef020780d762" CreationDate="2018-07-15T21:08:08.593" UserId="9464" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9461" RevisionGUID="aaa5cd1e-2d01-44f8-b50a-7220a2730b4a" CreationDate="2018-07-16T04:11:24.263" UserId="1921" Text="Much of the problem you could probably solve with a virtual machine, but graphics will remain an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a VMware esxi server you can dedicate any device to a specific VM.  However, that means you need drivers for it.  In which case you would have to get an older video cards that support 98,9x,or etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 9x only support 4gb of RAM so if you have 8gb it should be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD will take care of any hard drive lagging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IF your looking to build a hardware based system you will have to go to ebay and second hand stores to get components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QNl0H.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31008" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9453" RevisionGUID="c5bea7ee-5a8f-4a06-989a-a862d2002d25" CreationDate="2018-07-16T08:04:41.877" UserId="4963" Comment="added 103 characters in body" Text="I bought a sim card from an mobile provider, and I can use it as a hotspot, using my cellphone. So, I can make my cellphone into a hotspot router, using this sim card. Do you have some recommendations on which router (a proper piece of hardware, not a cellphone) would work with 4G sim card, as a hotspot router? The 4G+ is written on the provider's site, if I find more info on bands I will have them written here." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1946" RevisionGUID="0f2116a1-093c-4913-8949-13145aad6002" CreationDate="2018-07-16T08:24:02.053" UserId="378" Comment="added 165 characters in body" Text="I dropped my Nexus 5 because it was so large, it was perilous to handle with one hand (whenever a notification comes, swiping from the top is a pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a phone with these strong requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Shorter than 13 cm in length, the smaller the better&#xD;&#xA;- Rootable&#xD;&#xA;- Hardware is usable with alternative Android distributions (this excludes makers that DRM the camera and make it work only with maker-provided apps, for instance)&#xD;&#xA;- Able to run the latest Android version&#xD;&#xA;- LTE or better&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16 GB of storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus for a good rear-facing camera. Bonus for open spirit (à la Fairphone, Nexus)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plastic is OK. If not commercially available, second-hand is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*([20% similar question][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/small-high-quality-android-phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31010" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="cf97acc5-e3b1-4923-abde-2f5ce36b1a90" CreationDate="2018-07-16T09:45:49.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31012" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="89a1f5e3-f141-4235-94c3-0ea4da412449" CreationDate="2018-07-16T14:46:28.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31017" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="26385e49-8c07-49c3-bde2-94cdb6e893ba" CreationDate="2018-07-16T15:46:29.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="5e6e2be3-c0bd-4bf4-bf78-b978d493ee42" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:16:00.630" UserId="5792" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, easy-to-clean construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31019" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="5e6e2be3-c0bd-4bf4-bf78-b978d493ee42" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:16:00.630" UserId="5792" Text="A good mechanical keyboard for Mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31020" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="5e6e2be3-c0bd-4bf4-bf78-b978d493ee42" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:16:00.630" UserId="5792" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9463" RevisionGUID="0591e407-614f-4a40-a6ab-1d75ee56abbf" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:46:28.787" UserId="5792" Text="For a 2018 answer, the [**BlackBerry KEY2**](https://blackberrymobile.com/product/blackberry-key2/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Specs](https://blackberrymobile.com/specifications/keytwo/) ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A great **physical keyboard**, which doubles as a trackpad for scrolling, navigation, and text selection, and allows for custom programmable macros to instantly launch anything&#xD;&#xA; - Android **Oreo 8.1**&#xD;&#xA; - **SnapDragon 660, Kryo 260 8-Core @ 2.2 GHz x 4 + 1.8GHz x 4** and **6GB RAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Can be rooted** (e.g. [CyanogenMod](https://cyanogenmod-roms.apk.cafe/blackberry/key2))&#xD;&#xA; - **1080p** screen (433 PPI)&#xD;&#xA; - **3500 mAh** of battery (~25 hrs of mixed use)&#xD;&#xA; - OS will likely get **feature updates** (KEYone Oreo updates are rolling out at the time of writing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortuantely it fails your &quot;Supported on the Verizon network&quot; requirement, since it's GSM/GPRS/EDGE, but Verizon only supports CDMA. I hope it's not still a deal-breaker to transfer to a GSM provider like T-Mobile or AT&amp;T.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31022" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="abf0ed2d-173f-40c5-a759-42f7768553c4" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:47:35.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="437b2270-f54d-4eb5-86d1-9c7a81da7143" CreationDate="2018-07-16T21:28:06.467" UserId="5792" Comment="added link to illustration for easy-to-clean Corsair K70" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31029" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="58bc5f0b-2a69-4679-853a-78ea4a92c5c3" CreationDate="2018-07-17T02:47:35.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9466" RevisionGUID="872e5fe7-60b4-4617-8d14-95b904fda964" CreationDate="2018-07-17T07:38:18.720" UserId="9394" Text="Currently I have 5.7 GB of memeory (RAM) on my Lenovo V570 laptop running Ubuntu 18.04 LTS. I popped the hood and I see and a 4 GB and a 2 GB chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A 2 GB RAM in the front and 4 GB RAM in the back][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did some research and found out there I might have some options to chose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Corsair CMSO8GX3M1A1333C9 8GB 1X8GB DDR3-1333MHZ CL9-9-9-24 204PIN SODIMM Memory Kit ([source][2]).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Crucial RAM options ([source][3])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the claims made in the Lenovo forums [post][2], I am assuming that I can install 16 GB of max RAM on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question is:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the difference between DDR3 PC3-12800 and DDR3 PC3-14900? And most importantly, how do I find which one to use for my laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/W71XX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-C-E-K-M-N-and-V-Series/V570-upgrade-to-16gb-of-ram-successful/td-p/696025&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Lenovo/ideapad-v570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31034" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9466" RevisionGUID="872e5fe7-60b4-4617-8d14-95b904fda964" CreationDate="2018-07-17T07:38:18.720" UserId="9394" Text="Lenovo V570 Memory Upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31035" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9466" RevisionGUID="872e5fe7-60b4-4617-8d14-95b904fda964" CreationDate="2018-07-17T07:38:18.720" UserId="9394" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31043" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="16386198-eb55-4598-b554-1469b55b7f25" CreationDate="2018-07-17T16:49:01.747" UserId="5792" Comment="Added summary table of candidates" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ MK Pro L │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3p    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Driver ║     │      │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │          │&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  61% │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="52ba1db9-5258-4115-bcaa-8b5d2ef4db0e" CreationDate="2018-07-17T18:56:30.617" UserId="9536" Text="I am a bit lost on what adapters and cables I need for connecting a second external monitor to my laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have an external HDMI monitor. All my three laptops have HDMI ports with which I am able to use this external monitor (using HDMI male-to-male cable). I want to connect one more HDMI monitor now as a second external display (ideally to any of my three laptops). All three laptops run Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three laptops have multiple USB 3.0 (SS) ports. They all have mini display ports (I believe I am using the correct term) as well, but one of them seems to have a different kind. Please see images below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 1:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The port on the left above is what I think is the mini display port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 2:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This laptop has the same kind of display port as laptop 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 3:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 3][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure if the left most port in this image is the same as the left most ports in above two. It doesn't have the two + symbols like the ones above have. Is it the same as the ports in the first two laptops?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not realizing that I have these mini display ports, I purchased &quot;Plugable USB 3.0 to DisplayPort 4K UHD&quot; from Amazon (for $60), which has a male USB 3.0 and a female full-sized Display port. Believe now I need a display port to HDMI adapter to connect to the external monitor. Or is it better that I return this adapter and purchase something else? Please recommend what this &quot;something else&quot; should be, which will ideally work with all three laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW2T0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CEEt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQEPY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31045" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="52ba1db9-5258-4115-bcaa-8b5d2ef4db0e" CreationDate="2018-07-17T18:56:30.617" UserId="9536" Text="How to connect laptop to second external monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31046" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="52ba1db9-5258-4115-bcaa-8b5d2ef4db0e" CreationDate="2018-07-17T18:56:30.617" UserId="9536" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="c3b304ad-05c7-4759-a1b7-8f945fdd583a" CreationDate="2018-07-17T19:15:13.450" UserId="6047" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="I am a bit lost on what adapters and cables I need for connecting a second external monitor to my laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have an external HDMI monitor. All my three laptops have HDMI ports with which I am able to use this external monitor (using HDMI male-to-male cable). I want to connect one more HDMI monitor now as a second external display (ideally to any of my three laptops). All three laptops run Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three laptops have multiple USB 3.0 (SS) ports. They all have mini display ports (I believe I am using the correct term) as well, but one of them seems to have a different kind. Please see images below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 1:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The port on the left above is what I think is the mini display port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 2:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This laptop has the same kind of display port as laptop 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 3:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 3][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure if the left most port in this image is the same as the left most ports in above two. It doesn't have the two + symbols like the ones above have. Is it the same as the ports in the first two laptops?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not realizing that I have these mini display ports, I purchased &quot;Plugable USB 3.0 to DisplayPort 4K UHD&quot; from Amazon (for $60), which has a male USB 3.0 and a female full-sized Display port. I believe that I need a display port to HDMI adapter to connect to the external monitor. Would it be better to return this adapter and purchase a different one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW2T0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CEEt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQEPY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31048" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="c3b304ad-05c7-4759-a1b7-8f945fdd583a" CreationDate="2018-07-17T19:15:13.450" UserId="6047" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="Cable recommendation for HDMI display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31049" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="c3b304ad-05c7-4759-a1b7-8f945fdd583a" CreationDate="2018-07-17T19:15:13.450" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 9536 edit id of 719" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31053" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9470" RevisionGUID="5ee6b816-68ea-4097-898c-251c0909a9ff" CreationDate="2018-07-17T21:49:07.513" UserId="6475" Text="Here's a fairly detailed write up I did a while back for someone looking for something similar to what you want, recommending the &quot;Anne Pro&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7633/6475&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll go through your list to address your needs specifically:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Brown Switches = Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Mac Keys - Yes. The board has four layout profiles; one of them is dedicated for Mac and the other is fully customize-able including Mac key functions. The keyboard comes with Windows printed keycaps but they are standard size so finding keycaps with the Mac print on them should be easy enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Construction - This category is a mixed bag with the Anne. It's plate mounted, has quality keycaps, and feels / sounds sturdy despite the plastic housing. I will say the stabilizers can be a little rattly out of the box, mine was enough that I spent maybe 3-5 hours finding and performing modifications to resolve the issue. I'll be happy to provide more info on my specific mods if you'd like, but it was less than $10 in materials and I'm very happy with the result. So it's not perfect but it's certainly something you can work with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Driver - There isn't an app or anything but Anne Pro works out of the box with MacOS. There are apps for Windows 7/8/10, Android, and iOS that you can use to customize the lighting and key layout.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Numpad - No dice, this is a 60% board so it does not feature a numpad or dedicated arrow keys. I have my Fn button set to the CAPS LOCK key, and arrows bound to the function layer at WASD and IJKL, this layout works extremely well. Yes I miss the numpad, I will likely end up buying or building a mechanical one to pair with the Anne Pro at some point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Programmable RGB - Yes. There are a few dynamic light modes as well. Programmable RGB layouts are only possible as a static layout, you can't currently make custom dynamic layouts (though this feature is supposedly coming with the 1.5 firmware promised over a year ago, sooooo yea). The only other thing about the firmware that blows is that the on-board macros don't work, but I assume you can live without that since you didn't list it in your post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB hub - The Anne doesn't have one of these unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's got just about everything aside from the numpad and the USB hub. Amazon usually has them for ~$60. It may cost you an extra $5-10 and a half a Saturday morning to get it where you want it, but you might be really happy with it right out of the box too. I'd recommend reading the answer I linked as it addresses some aspects of the board that weren't listed in your post in greater detail. There's also a dedicated community on reddit for this keyboard, so you can swing by over there to get a feel for common problems / solutions and popular modifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have other questions about this board feel free to ask and I'll edit in my responses. Best of luck with the search!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="b533ada8-7aad-4d7f-a7e4-9773acc4db52" CreationDate="2018-07-17T22:40:52.127" UserId="5792" Comment="Added ANNE Pro to candidate table" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬──────────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ MK Pro L │ ANNE Pro │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪══════════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3p    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Driver ║     │      │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │     ✓    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  61% │    54%   │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴──────────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31058" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="56834255-2404-47b0-a7be-be504e555796" CreationDate="2018-07-18T00:55:31.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31063" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5888" RevisionGUID="b8d1c3f8-fb11-4eb3-b7ac-bfcc98825a6f" CreationDate="2018-07-18T12:34:26.663" UserId="4599" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I recently decided to [build my own wireless router](https://renaudcerrato.github.io/2016/05/21/build-your-homemade-router-part1/) - and I found the [Airetos AEX-QCA9880-NX](http://www.amazon.com/AIRETOS-AEX-QCA9880-NX-802-11ac-Extended-Temperature/dp/B00OJPJVV6) performing very well on my DIY machine: 3 channels 802.11ac/n/g in a miniPCIe shape." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="3c47aa75-c015-4d3f-9e00-93e90fb7f52e" CreationDate="2018-07-18T14:53:25.847" UserId="5792" Comment="Specified driver requirement" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬──────────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ MK Pro L │ ANNE Pro │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪══════════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3P    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ 1P/2P Driver ║     │      │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │          │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │     ✓    │     ✓    │&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │          │          │&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  61% │    54%   │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴──────────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31068" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9466" RevisionGUID="c117bf06-4c2b-42d6-88a3-54cd0f0bdb80" CreationDate="2018-07-18T15:32:57.103" UserId="9394" Comment="edited title" Text="Lenovo V570 RAM Upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9469" RevisionGUID="b9cf4e37-95c7-4b74-a7fb-934a1f77534e" CreationDate="2018-07-18T16:43:46.273" UserId="9536" Comment="alternate solution with VGA" Text="I am a bit lost on what adapters and cables I need for connecting a second external monitor to my laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have an external HDMI monitor. All my three laptops have HDMI ports with which I am able to use this external monitor (using HDMI male-to-male cable). I want to connect one more HDMI monitor now as a second external display (ideally to any of my three laptops). All three laptops run Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three laptops have multiple USB 3.0 (SS) ports. They all have mini display ports (I believe I am using the correct term) as well, but one of them seems to have a different kind. Please see images below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 1:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The port on the left above is what I think is the mini display port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 2:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;This laptop has the same kind of display port as laptop 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop 3:&#xD;&#xA;[![Laptop 3][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure if the left most port in this image is the same as the left most ports in above two. It doesn't have the two + symbols like the ones above have. Is it the same as the ports in the first two laptops?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not realizing that I have these mini display ports, I purchased &quot;Plugable USB 3.0 to DisplayPort 4K UHD&quot; from Amazon (for $60), which has a male USB 3.0 and a female full-sized Display port. I believe that I now need a display port to HDMI adapter to connect to the external monitor. Would it be better to return this adapter and purchase a different one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I don't really need HDMI for my second external monitor, since it also has a VGA port. I ended up purchasing a USB 3.0 to VGA adapter, which costs only $16. All my laptops have at least one spare SS port, so I am good now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW2T0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CEEt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQEPY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31070" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9466" RevisionGUID="8614f607-671a-466e-ba6b-4612258412d7" CreationDate="2018-07-18T16:46:20.727" UserId="9394" Comment="edited title" Text="Currently, I have 5.7 GB of memory (RAM) on my Lenovo V570 laptop running Ubuntu 18.04 LTS. I popped the hood and I see and a 4 GB and a 2 GB chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A 2 GB RAM in the front and 4 GB RAM in the back][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did some research and found out there I might have some options to chose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Corsair CMSO8GX3M1A1333C9 8GB 1X8GB DDR3-1333MHZ CL9-9-9-24 204PIN SODIMM Memory Kit ([source][2]).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Crucial RAM options ([source][3])&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the claims made in the Lenovo forums [post][2], I am assuming that I can install 16 GB of max RAM on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Board:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Physical Memory Array&#xD;&#xA;    	Location: System Board Or Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;    	Use: System Memory&#xD;&#xA;    	Error Correction Type: None&#xD;&#xA;    	Maximum Capacity: 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;    	Error Information Handle: Not Provided&#xD;&#xA;    	Number Of Devices: 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Device&#xD;&#xA;    	Array Handle: 0x0034&#xD;&#xA;    	Error Information Handle: Not Provided&#xD;&#xA;    	Total Width: 64 bits&#xD;&#xA;    	Data Width: 64 bits&#xD;&#xA;    	Size: 4096 MB&#xD;&#xA;    	Form Factor: SODIMM&#xD;&#xA;    	Set: None&#xD;&#xA;    	Locator: ChannelA-DIMM0&#xD;&#xA;    	Bank Locator: BANK 0&#xD;&#xA;    	Type: DDR3&#xD;&#xA;    	Type Detail: Synchronous&#xD;&#xA;    	Speed: 1333 MT/s&#xD;&#xA;    	Manufacturer: Samsung&#xD;&#xA;    	Serial Number: 005001BA&#xD;&#xA;    	Asset Tag: 9876543210&#xD;&#xA;    	Part Number: M471B5273CH0-CH9  &#xD;&#xA;    	Rank: Unknown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Handle 0x0039, DMI type 17, 28 bytes&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Device&#xD;&#xA;    	Array Handle: 0x0034&#xD;&#xA;    	Error Information Handle: Not Provided&#xD;&#xA;    	Total Width: 64 bits&#xD;&#xA;    	Data Width: 64 bits&#xD;&#xA;    	Size: 2048 MB&#xD;&#xA;    	Form Factor: SODIMM&#xD;&#xA;    	Set: None&#xD;&#xA;    	Locator: ChannelB-DIMM0&#xD;&#xA;    	Bank Locator: BANK 2&#xD;&#xA;    	Type: DDR3&#xD;&#xA;    	Type Detail: Synchronous&#xD;&#xA;    	Speed: 1333 MT/s&#xD;&#xA;    	Manufacturer: Samsung&#xD;&#xA;    	Serial Number: ***** censored ***&#xD;&#xA;    	Asset Tag: 9876543210&#xD;&#xA;    	Part Number: M471B5773CHS-CH9  &#xD;&#xA;    	Rank: Unknown&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My question is:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the difference between DDR3 PC3-12800 and DDR3 PC3-14900? And most importantly, how do I find which one to use for my laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/W71XX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-C-E-K-M-N-and-V-Series/V570-upgrade-to-16gb-of-ram-successful/td-p/696025&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Lenovo/ideapad-v570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31071" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9474" RevisionGUID="54c9b0ed-9b23-4aeb-a212-3fc13f3ebfc2" CreationDate="2018-07-18T18:40:13.483" UserId="9394" Text="Last time I checked, Photoshop is not available on Linux, but I am assuming you're planning to use it on your Windows OS. I would recommend the following, based on my experience:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [System76 laptops][1] pre-configured ***OR*** design-your-own (e.g. Serval WS, Oryx Pro, Galago Pro...)&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [ASUS ZenBook 13 Ultra-Slim Laptop][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Dell Precision 5520][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [HP ZBook 15u G3 Mobile Workstation][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [The latest official list of Ubuntu compatible laptops][6]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Ubuntu laptops on Amazon][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related question:&#xD;&#xA;https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a Full Stack developer (*.NET/Java/Python*), Photographer, Microsoft Certified Professional, a decade-long Linux user and a decade-long WordPress blogger. I have used all the technologies you have listed. I am using Lenovo V570 for last 7 yrs, which I have upgraded on my own. Plus, I've [built][8] me a desktop recently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://system76.com/laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop/cax13w10p1c616ubuntu&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sMbavM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops-notebooks/precision-15-5520-laptop/spd/precision-15-5520-laptop?~ck=bt&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-15u-g2-mobile-workstation-%28energy-star%29-p-v1h63ut-aba--1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&amp;category=Laptop&amp;level=Enabled&amp;release=16.04%20LTS&amp;vendors=Dell&amp;vendors=Lenovo&amp;vendors=HP&amp;vendors=Intel&amp;vendors=Acer&amp;vendors=Crambo&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubuntu-Laptops/s?page=1&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AUbuntu%20Laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/zvq48d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="145d53c5-c97a-4cef-8557-11d970dcfbd9" CreationDate="2018-07-18T18:40:25.830" UserId="5792" Comment="Updated requirements based on great argument" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra, 3rd-party ones proven reliable over many years&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬──────────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ MK Pro L │ ANNE Pro │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪══════════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 7 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤ &#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3P    │     ✓    │ 6 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │          │          │ 5 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Solid Driver ║     │  3P  │          │          │ 4 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │          │ 3 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 2 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │          │          │ 1 pt&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  71% │    54%   │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴──────────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31073" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9474" RevisionGUID="33da342a-4109-4139-821c-5d6c18c658b1" CreationDate="2018-07-18T18:51:48.797" UserId="9394" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="Last time I checked, Photoshop is not available on Linux, but I am assuming you're planning to use it on your Windows OS. I would recommend the following, based on my experience:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [System76 laptops][1] pre-configured ***OR*** design-your-own (e.g. Serval WS, Oryx Pro, Galago Pro...)&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [ASUS ZenBook 13 Ultra-Slim Laptop][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Dell Precision 5520][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [HP ZBook 15u G3 Mobile Workstation][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [The latest official list of Ubuntu compatible laptops][6]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Ubuntu laptops on Amazon][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related question:&#xD;&#xA;https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a Full Stack developer (*.NET/Java/Python*), Photographer, Microsoft Certified Professional, a decade-long Linux user and a decade-long WordPress blogger. I have used all the technologies you have listed. I am using Lenovo V570 for last 7 yrs, which I have upgraded on my own. Plus, I've [built][8] me a desktop recently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://system76.com/laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/xps-13-laptop/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop?view=configurations&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sMbavM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops-notebooks/precision-15-5520-laptop/spd/precision-15-5520-laptop?~ck=bt&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-15u-g2-mobile-workstation-%28energy-star%29-p-v1h63ut-aba--1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&amp;category=Laptop&amp;level=Enabled&amp;release=16.04%20LTS&amp;vendors=Dell&amp;vendors=Lenovo&amp;vendors=HP&amp;vendors=Intel&amp;vendors=Acer&amp;vendors=Crambo&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubuntu-Laptops/s?page=1&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AUbuntu%20Laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/zvq48d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9475" RevisionGUID="50d8666b-b713-4d44-98f2-7ac3a8dc7ca4" CreationDate="2018-07-18T19:01:24.080" UserId="9394" Text=" &#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the following, almost all of these come with Ubuntu/Debian/fork installed by manufacturer :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [System76 Galago Pro][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition][2]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Dell Precision 5520][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [HP ZBook 15u G3 Mobile Workstation][5] - listed on [Ubuntu website][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more choices, I recommend looking at [the latest official list of Ubuntu compatible laptops][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067&#xD;&#xA; 2. https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2738/9394&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://system76.com/laptops/galago&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/xps-13-laptop/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop?view=configurations&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sMbavM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops-notebooks/precision-15-5520-laptop/spd/precision-15-5520-laptop?~ck=bt&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-15u-g2-mobile-workstation-%28energy-star%29-p-v1h63ut-aba--1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&amp;category=Laptop&amp;level=Enabled&amp;release=16.04%20LTS&amp;vendors=Dell&amp;vendors=Lenovo&amp;vendors=HP&amp;vendors=Intel&amp;vendors=Acer&amp;vendors=Crambo&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubuntu-Laptops/s?page=1&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AUbuntu%20Laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/zvq48d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9476" RevisionGUID="970c44e5-25b7-4281-b688-33797351a07d" CreationDate="2018-07-18T19:27:56.837" UserId="9542" Text="I need to take stereo images with good image clarity and close shutter timing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB web cams are an obvious option but they tend to have low clarity with lots of motion blur and synchronizing shutters from multiple cameras is not possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern action cams have API shutter control and good still image quality, but all that I have researched can only be controlled over their own wifi hotspot, preventing the processing computer from being connected to two actions cams simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tetherable point and shoot cameras are extremely rare, while DSLRs that support tethering start at around $500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a simple USB still camera available? Or an action cam or similar that allows USB tethering? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9476" RevisionGUID="970c44e5-25b7-4281-b688-33797351a07d" CreationDate="2018-07-18T19:27:56.837" UserId="9542" Text="USB Still Camera (low cost)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9476" RevisionGUID="970c44e5-25b7-4281-b688-33797351a07d" CreationDate="2018-07-18T19:27:56.837" UserId="9542" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9477" RevisionGUID="736f8230-0684-4c5a-85d6-8f04a7b17e9e" CreationDate="2018-07-18T22:30:44.540" UserId="6089" Text="If you do not require video level synchronization, you may be able to accomplish your objective by using a pair of Canon low-cost point-and-shoot cameras. I have a pair of mid-range Canon SX-200 IS cameras with USB connectors wired to a trio of 1.5v batteries and a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cameras have been loaded with [Canon CHDK][1] which is stored on the camera's SD card. It can be configured for auto-loading or manual activation (which I use) and has a tremendous script library. I've forgotten which feature I use that allowed the battery pack to trip the cameras, or if I needed it at all. I think I did, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cameras are plugged into the battery pack. When the switch is held, it performs the auto-focus sequence, then when the switch is released, it trips the shutter on all the cameras plugged into the pack. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you search for &quot;trigger canon camera with usb&quot; many results are available. My search results showed me that CHDK is needed to allow this feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31081" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9474" RevisionGUID="d7541076-5923-4651-9c27-8726742ffb31" CreationDate="2018-07-19T00:40:22.797" UserId="9394" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Last time I checked, Photoshop is not available on Linux, but I am assuming you're planning to use it on your Windows OS. I would recommend the following, based on my experience:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [System76 laptops][1] pre-configured ***OR*** design-your-own (e.g. Serval WS, Oryx Pro, Galago Pro...)&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition][2]&#xD;&#xA; 3. [ASUS ZenBook 13 Ultra-Slim Laptop][3]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [Dell Precision 5520][4]&#xD;&#xA; 5. [HP ZBook 15u G3 Mobile Workstation][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [The latest official list of Ubuntu compatible laptops][6]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [Ubuntu laptops on Amazon][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related question:&#xD;&#xA;https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a Full Stack developer (*.NET, Java &amp;, Python*), Photographer, Microsoft Certified Professional, a decade-long Linux user and a decade-long WordPress blogger. I have used all the technologies you have listed. I am using Lenovo V570 for last 7 yrs, which I have upgraded on my own. Plus, I've [built][8] me a desktop recently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://system76.com/laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/xps-13-laptop/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop?view=configurations&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://a.co/1sMbavM&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops-notebooks/precision-15-5520-laptop/spd/precision-15-5520-laptop?~ck=bt&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-15u-g2-mobile-workstation-%28energy-star%29-p-v1h63ut-aba--1&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&amp;category=Laptop&amp;level=Enabled&amp;release=16.04%20LTS&amp;vendors=Dell&amp;vendors=Lenovo&amp;vendors=HP&amp;vendors=Intel&amp;vendors=Acer&amp;vendors=Crambo&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubuntu-Laptops/s?page=1&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AUbuntu%20Laptops&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/zvq48d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9478" RevisionGUID="471625d4-3246-4100-9e1c-acc2f4ffd5c4" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:02:17.107" UserId="6328" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for depth sensors to implement some aggorithms. I have heard Kinect is a good option. But, how does it work? Buy a Kinect and then connect to a computer? Which Kinect is recommended - Xbox 360 or Xbox one? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can Kinect work without a XBox Console? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How is the data transferred to the PC ? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31085" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9478" RevisionGUID="471625d4-3246-4100-9e1c-acc2f4ffd5c4" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:02:17.107" UserId="6328" Text="Kinect for XBox One or Kinect for Xbox 360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31086" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9478" RevisionGUID="471625d4-3246-4100-9e1c-acc2f4ffd5c4" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:02:17.107" UserId="6328" Text="&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9479" RevisionGUID="67ecac81-1559-4d1b-87a8-d3774b78a3bb" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:53:33.047" UserId="9545" Text="Can someone recommend a monitor that can play video files straight from an external hard drive, preferably along a USB to USB connection and preferably in various formats (certainly including .mp4, preferably also .flv and .mkv), and that does not need to be connected to the internet or use wifi. Ideally I would like something that does not receive any kind of TV signal and therefore does not require a TV licence to keep. I realise a CPU is required in order to stream the file to the monitor, but I'm wondering whether you can get this built into the box with the monitor and without requiring a separate third device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31088" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9479" RevisionGUID="67ecac81-1559-4d1b-87a8-d3774b78a3bb" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:53:33.047" UserId="9545" Text="Monitor that can play video files straight from external hard drive, without internet or wifi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31089" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9479" RevisionGUID="67ecac81-1559-4d1b-87a8-d3774b78a3bb" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:53:33.047" UserId="9545" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31090" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9480" RevisionGUID="bd47fe24-bb17-49ad-8132-21cabb539534" CreationDate="2018-07-19T11:59:09.343" UserId="9084" Text="Kinect for X-Box One is significantly higher-performing than the version for the 360 unit.   No matter what your version, there is an adapter cable available which converts the connection to USB and supplies power, and Windows already contains the Drivers for it.  There are various pieces of software which can use it, ranging from basic webcam software to the Kinect Studio and 3D Scan. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be aware that both versions of Kinect, and their adapter cables, have been discontinued by Microsoft; the adapter for the X-Box One version was discontinued in January 2018.   If you wish to obtain these without buying from the secondary market, I recommend moving quickly. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9479" RevisionGUID="ec258e1a-dab6-400a-94bd-72d425568fe9" CreationDate="2018-07-19T12:04:22.960" UserId="9545" Comment="added 388 characters in body" Text="Can someone recommend a monitor that can play video files straight from an external hard drive, preferably along a USB to USB connection and preferably in various formats (certainly including .mp4, preferably also .flv and .mkv), and that does not need also to be connected to the internet or a laptop or use wifi. Ideally I would like something that does not receive any kind of TV signal and therefore does not require a TV licence to keep. I realise a CPU is required in order to stream the file to the monitor, but I'm wondering whether you can get this built into the box with the monitor and without requiring a separate third device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarise: I need a screen that I can put on the wall so that when I want to watch one of the films I've got on an external drive, I can throw a USB cable from the external drive to the monitor, throw an audio cable from the monitor to some speakers, and sit back and watch the film. (And I don't want to watch TV or do anything on the internet or using wireless.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9481" RevisionGUID="f3077065-84ac-415e-ac54-0b20fbb293bc" CreationDate="2018-07-19T12:06:42.360" UserId="9084" Text="You need something like [this][1], where the computer is an all-in-one unit.  This pricing isn't too bad considering what it is, and you don't have a ton of options.  Note that it doesn't have video inputs for the monitor portion of the unit, so it does not classify as a television.   This model also has a touch-screen, so no need for a keyboard and mouse.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/cty/pdp/spd/inspiron-22-3277-aio/fdcw22ipun104s?cid=310435&amp;st=&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuKm5wI-r3AIV1jaBCh1WdA6JEAQYAyABEgLRlPD_BwE&amp;lid=5860376&amp;VEN1=snajNacpJ,183144151912,901pdb6671,c,,FDCW22IPUN104S&amp;VEN2=,&amp;dgc=st&amp;dgseg=dhs&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;VEN3=235204297008936848" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31093" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="b20633ed-23a4-4501-b63e-fbdaab65f736" CreationDate="2018-07-19T14:04:53.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="381ac92d-1a6b-4573-a1ff-3e6ef57a0a84" CreationDate="2018-07-19T16:15:21.027" UserId="9549" Text="I am looking to use a wifi extender at our hotel on holiday. Issue is that the hotel wifi most likely will require a Web login on the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do WiFi extenders exist that allow you to do a Web login on the extender and then allow me to connect the two phones and laptop to the extender?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="381ac92d-1a6b-4573-a1ff-3e6ef57a0a84" CreationDate="2018-07-19T16:15:21.027" UserId="9549" Text="WiFi extender on network requiring Web login" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="381ac92d-1a6b-4573-a1ff-3e6ef57a0a84" CreationDate="2018-07-19T16:15:21.027" UserId="9549" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31100" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="145ad4f8-6a1c-44f9-9164-1f84dbbf272f" CreationDate="2018-07-19T17:09:35.457" UserId="47" Comment="added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31101" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8256" RevisionGUID="145ad4f8-6a1c-44f9-9164-1f84dbbf272f" CreationDate="2018-07-19T17:09:35.457" Comment="Proposed by 47 approved by 7556, 60 edit id of 722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9484" RevisionGUID="109d935a-e4c9-4852-873b-ee385f65e91a" CreationDate="2018-07-19T19:16:51.597" UserId="4039" Text="I Think you're looking for something like one of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) **TP-Link M7350 Mobile Router** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) **Huawei E5577** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Bonus:*** If you're not on a tight budget here's one of my favorites&#xD;&#xA;the **Netgear AC810-100**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31106" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9485" RevisionGUID="136e2f49-c74c-4cf6-a1d0-65aa81787fd2" CreationDate="2018-07-19T19:49:55.667" UserId="4039" Text="The **PCx-xxxxx** stand for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **PC3** (*DDR3*) --&gt; RAM Type&#xD;&#xA;- **xxxxx** --&gt; BUS max transmission data rate (per channel)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Answering your question, the ***PC3-12800*** has a max trans. rate of **12,8GB/s**, on the other hand, the ***PC3-14900*** has a transmission rate of **14,9GB/s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that being said, it goes down only on your choice/budget and on your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're planning to use virtualization software, light gaming or more generally &quot;RAM-eater&quot; software (i.e. Audio/Video/Photo Editing...), I will go for the PC-14900, BUT if you're going to upgrade your ram because you're going short on the number of programs you can open at the same time, take this a personal thought, I will go with the PC-12800 one...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this clears your doubt." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31107" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8157" RevisionGUID="d2dd52d1-ca3c-4ae7-ac68-a7d0ad4c4ca5" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:04:53.983" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="ed85ce10-a090-4085-ad7d-dfd2a1ffa396" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:15:05.330" UserId="9552" Text="We want to offer Colocation in a DataCenter and therefore we need to messure the energy consumption of every single server via API. Also we need to be able to switch the power on/off state for every single machine too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I am looking for a PDU, but I am not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When looking for PDU on ebay, it seems they offer this functionality only for the whole PDU, but not for every single outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some specfic term for the kind of hardware I am looking for? If it's *PDU*, is there some sub term? What are the things I need to be aware of?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31109" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="ed85ce10-a090-4085-ad7d-dfd2a1ffa396" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:15:05.330" UserId="9552" Text="Reading and activate/disable power of specific outlets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31110" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="ed85ce10-a090-4085-ad7d-dfd2a1ffa396" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:15:05.330" UserId="9552" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31111" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="59f61c03-1712-4510-b9f9-38e0ac2132c4" CreationDate="2018-07-19T20:21:02.647" UserId="9552" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="We want to offer Colocation in a DataCenter and therefore we need to messure the energy consumption of every single server via API. Also we need to be able to switch the power on/off state for every single machine too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I am looking for a PDU, but I am not sure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When looking for PDU on ebay, it seems they offer this functionality only for the whole PDU, but not for every single outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some specfic term for the kind of hardware I am looking for? If it's *PDU*, is there some sub term? What are the things I need to be aware of, so it fulfill my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31113" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="7b7877a2-7e76-4b11-9448-92bf65aebf22" CreationDate="2018-07-19T22:12:25.043" UserId="9552" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="745f2074-619a-494b-bf61-29b27e1bf947" CreationDate="2018-07-20T12:19:14.723" UserId="7197" Text="I am looking for a small mobile device to display a list of sensible information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage of the device must be encryptable and the user must first enter a PIN to decrypt the storage at boot time and second enter a PIN to authenticate himself in order to use the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the device can be up to common tablet size (~10,5''), but the smaller the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover, the device must own no wireless interfaces to reduce the possible attack surface. As a consequence it is only possible to I/O with the device via a wired interface (which should be a common type, e.g. USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the usage, the device should provide a touch screen, but this is not mandatory. Another kind of user interface interaction would also be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget does play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background to this is as follows: I already tried to realize this via a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (gts28vewifi aka SM-T713) for which I have modified the LineageOS sources and build a custom variant that does not have WIFI and BT. But I failed as the device restarts after some time during the boot. *Most likely this is because the WIFI system is not found or some related consequences caused by removing WIFI and BT from the build.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your tips and suggestions. If more informations are necessary or I forgot something important, I will edit my question, of course. Maybe there is another possibility to satisfy those requirements I am not aware of at the moment :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31119" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="745f2074-619a-494b-bf61-29b27e1bf947" CreationDate="2018-07-20T12:19:14.723" UserId="7197" Text="Mobile device without a wireless interface to store sensible informations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31120" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="745f2074-619a-494b-bf61-29b27e1bf947" CreationDate="2018-07-20T12:19:14.723" UserId="7197" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9490" RevisionGUID="000ec7e5-1da2-439a-842f-b416722db5f3" CreationDate="2018-07-20T19:12:50.977" UserId="9560" Text="As far as I know there is no extender which will permit you to do the login. If the WiFi mode is bridge the extender will be transparent and You will have no problem with web authentication (per device)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31126" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9490" RevisionGUID="65e78dcd-d832-4ace-88af-8893612d234d" CreationDate="2018-07-20T19:30:37.053" UserId="9560" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="As far as I know there is no extender which will permit you to do the login. If the WiFi mode is bridge the extender will be transparent and You will have no problem with web authentication (per device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover the hotel policies are usually &quot;One device per account (user/password)&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31131" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="6d063ed2-0cf0-40ef-a4f8-c48ba9652d7b" CreationDate="2018-07-21T01:14:04.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31132" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="42e91367-268c-40aa-a5f5-daddb67e8e1f" CreationDate="2018-07-21T03:14:49.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31133" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="5171dd4b-496a-4527-addf-17f11c3d91a5" CreationDate="2018-07-21T04:15:13.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9491" RevisionGUID="fdedf00e-6f7f-4a01-8163-2f5a91031a9f" CreationDate="2018-07-21T06:21:49.050" UserId="6047" Text="## Self-built option ~= $1600 (Prices fluctuate daily) ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're comfortable with building your own systems (It's actually quite easy) I can easily fit it top of the line components for $1594.69. [Here's a PC Part Picker list][1] that shows you where you can buy every single component. Also if you choose to tweak the build a bit more yourself, it has a compatibility filter to make sure everything fits. Specifically this build has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-8700k overclockable processor&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4-3000 15 CAS latency Memory *(8700k supports 2666, but you can overclock it, you can buy a cheaper memory module otherwise, I would recommend the lowest timings)&#xD;&#xA; - 300GB 10000RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung 970 Evo 250GB M.2 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also gave you a Titanium Certified power supply for those energy savings, and included a thermal paste recommendation -Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut - which is one of the best ceramic thermal pastes out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot reccomend self-building enough, as **it is the most effective way to decrease cost of a PC**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's a link to the build in case you missed it above.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pre-built recommendation: ABS Battlebox Ultimate Bearcat $1,649.99][2] (MSRP: $1,849.99) &#xD;&#xA;------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features high end components such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 7th Gen 7700K&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 2 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 240 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monster of a computer will remain competitive for years to come with it's top of the line features. While not as great a value as self-building should absolutely smoke your old hardware out of the water.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zyCvbX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102288R&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/FShZH.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9491" RevisionGUID="f7005044-eb03-49a1-a286-7011d99e83c4" CreationDate="2018-07-21T06:31:12.073" UserId="6047" Comment="Title consistency" Text="## Self-built option ~= $1600 (Prices fluctuate daily) ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're comfortable with building your own systems (It's actually quite easy) I can easily fit it top of the line components for $1594.69. [Here's a PC Part Picker list][1] that shows you where you can buy every single component. Also if you choose to tweak the build a bit more yourself, it has a compatibility filter to make sure everything fits. Specifically this build has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-8700k overclockable processor&#xD;&#xA; - DDR4-3000 15 CAS latency Memory *(8700k supports 2666, but you can overclock it, you can buy a cheaper memory module otherwise, I would recommend the lowest timings)&#xD;&#xA; - 300GB 10000RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung 970 Evo 250GB M.2 SSD&#xD;&#xA; - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also gave you a Titanium Certified power supply for those energy savings, and included a thermal paste recommendation -Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut - which is one of the best ceramic thermal pastes out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I cannot reccomend self-building enough, as **it is the most effective way to decrease cost of a PC**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's a link to the build in case you missed it above.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pre-built option: ABS Battlebox Ultimate Bearcat $1,649.99][2] (MSRP: $1,849.99) &#xD;&#xA;------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features high end components such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i7 7th Gen 7700K&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 2 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 240 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This monster of a computer will remain competitive for years to come with it's top of the line features. While not as great a value as self-building should absolutely smoke your old hardware out of the water.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zyCvbX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102288R&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/FShZH.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="61d18221-8a87-4e57-bae5-bc587fffab53" CreationDate="2018-07-21T10:07:00.737" UserId="7197" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a small mobile device to display a list of sensible information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage of the device must be encryptable and the user must first enter a PIN to decrypt the storage at boot time and second enter a PIN to authenticate himself in order to use the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the device can be up to common tablet size (~10,5''), but the smaller the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover, the device must own no wireless interfaces to reduce the possible attack surface. As a consequence it is only possible to I/O with the device via a wired interface (which should be a common type, e.g. USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the usage, the device should provide a touch screen, but this is not mandatory. Another kind of user interface interaction would also be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget does not play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background to this is as follows: I already tried to realize this via a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (gts28vewifi aka SM-T713) for which I have modified the LineageOS sources and build a custom variant that does not have WIFI and BT. But I failed as the device restarts after some time during the boot. *Most likely this is because the WIFI system is not found or some related consequences caused by removing WIFI and BT from the build.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your tips and suggestions. If more informations are necessary or I forgot something important, I will edit my question, of course. Maybe there is another possibility to satisfy those requirements I am not aware of at the moment :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31137" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9492" RevisionGUID="45a2e438-c23e-482a-8535-e7868f75c1fa" CreationDate="2018-07-21T10:42:33.877" UserId="9560" Text="You can use notebook where WiFi/BT module can be easy removed. Examples include: Toshiba U925t Ultrabook, most (if not all) HP contemporary notebooks (just to mention few). IMO most of the contemporary notebooks use the same interface for WiFi/BT module which mean you can remove it on most of them. Just for the record for most of notebooks removing this module mean you need to disassemble it in some degree.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combining this hardware with MS Windows bitlocker (for encrypted filesystem) and encrypted container based on Veracrypt or PGP disk as second level can do what you want. If you are not fan of MS (almost) any Linux distribution have disk encryption for entire disk and can be combined also with Veracrypt/PGP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9492" RevisionGUID="f255e65c-c294-453e-9a4d-94ddf27a452d" CreationDate="2018-07-21T13:07:07.323" UserId="9560" Comment="added 134 characters in body" Text="You can use notebook where WiFi/BT module can be easy removed. Examples include: Toshiba U925t Ultrabook, most (if not all) HP contemporary notebooks (just to mention few). IMO most of the contemporary notebooks use the same interface for WiFi/BT module which mean you can remove it on most of them. Just for the record for most of notebooks removing this module mean you need to disassemble it in some degree.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combining this hardware with MS Windows bitlocker (for encrypted filesystem) and encrypted container based on Veracrypt or PGP disk as second level can do what you want. If you are not fan of MS (almost) any Linux distribution have disk encryption for entire disk and can be combined also with Veracrypt/PGP&#xD;&#xA;Here is a image how this module looks like:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xs5h0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9494" RevisionGUID="8860f3f4-dab7-4ec3-86f3-9b177a123c72" CreationDate="2018-07-21T17:38:39.960" UserId="6195" Text="Sounds like an old Palm pda (only i am not sure if there are also apps using exception)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31143" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9492" RevisionGUID="fb5edcc8-8bf5-4314-a723-1fb0cef1a473" CreationDate="2018-07-21T19:34:54.390" UserId="7197" Comment="Fixed grammer" Text="You can use a notebook where WiFi/BT module can be easily removed. Examples include: Toshiba U925t Ultrabook, most (if not all) HP contemporary notebooks (just to mention few). IMO most of the contemporary notebooks use the same interface for WiFi/BT module which mean you can remove it on most of them. Just for the record for most of notebooks removing this module means you need to disassemble it in some degree.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combining this hardware with MS Windows BitLocker (for an encrypted filesystem) and encrypted container based on Veracrypt or PGP disk as second level can do what you want. If you are not a fan of MS (almost) any Linux distribution has disk encryption for entire disk and can be combined also with Veracrypt/PGP&#xD;&#xA;Here is a image how this module looks like:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xs5h0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31144" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9492" RevisionGUID="fb5edcc8-8bf5-4314-a723-1fb0cef1a473" CreationDate="2018-07-21T19:34:54.390" Comment="Proposed by 7197 approved by 9560 edit id of 723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31145" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9495" RevisionGUID="c15b07de-81a9-4341-93de-95134e71bc3c" CreationDate="2018-07-21T20:18:32.773" UserId="7888" Text="I actually have a multi-button mouse that works well and fits my requirements (a [Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical 1.1A](https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-D58-00026-Intellimouse-Optical-Mouse/dp/B00005TQ08)), but I use keymappings and button mappings a lot on my Mac and would like a mouse **with more buttons** that I can customize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried plugging in a friend's Razer mouse to my MacBook Pro (can't find the model but it had a keypad under the thumb with a round button in the center and seven numbered buttons around that).  However, the mouse showed up as a keyboard to my Mac (though the cursor moved fine), and I couldn't get the extra buttons recognized as mouse clicks in the customization software I use (which is BetterTouchTool).  On a Windows 7 computer I opened up Notepad and the extra buttons just typed in their number (i.e. button 1 typed a &quot;1&quot;, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use mostly a Mac (El Capitan 10.11.6), plus a Windows 7 computer at work, and occasionally a Linux desktop.  I want the mouse to work on any of these out of the box, with the possibility for custom mappings on any of these OSes (perhaps requiring third party software).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll wheel&#xD;&#xA;- I don't know about optical or laser, but it should work on a wooden desk without a trackpad (which my current optical mouse does fine).&#xD;&#xA;- Must have MORE THAN five buttons to be worth changing.  My current mouse has left click, right click, middle click, plus two extra buttons (one on each side).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  The more buttons the better so long as they are usably arranged and show up as MOUSE CLICKS to whatever customization software, not as key presses.&#xD;&#xA;- Must work on Linux, Mac and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- Must appear to the computer as a mouse and not as a keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;- Don't care about price if it fits all the above requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Feel free to educate me on the mouse/keyboard recognition point as I expect there is probably more in play here than just the physical mouse hardware itself.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31146" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9495" RevisionGUID="c15b07de-81a9-4341-93de-95134e71bc3c" CreationDate="2018-07-21T20:18:32.773" UserId="7888" Text="Multi-button mouse that shows up as a mouse, not a keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31147" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9495" RevisionGUID="c15b07de-81a9-4341-93de-95134e71bc3c" CreationDate="2018-07-21T20:18:32.773" UserId="7888" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9497" RevisionGUID="c5a8570a-c17c-48da-8b35-a4017d13569e" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:33:50.497" UserId="9544" Text="Background: My socket 1155 CPU fan (Intel brand) struggles to move, very likely because of dust buildup (there was quite a bit of dust in the case when I opened it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I *know* that computer fans can be repaired, and I've done that myself for a power supply fan. However, I'm struggling with opening up the Intel CPU fan: Removing the sticker doesn't reveal the usual pad over the axis which you can open. Looking inside the slit (which is quite large, making it easy for dust to get in) shows the part with the coils is attached by contacts which move a bit, but I can't separate the assembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore I'm looking a socket 115x CPU fan with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As silent as possible&#xD;&#xA;* Normal cooling requirements, the CPU is not overclocked etc.&#xD;&#xA;* At least somewhat resistant to dust getting in (no big openings like in the Intel fan)&#xD;&#xA;* Repairable: Should be constructed in a way that makes it possible to open it up, lubricate the axis, and clean dust if necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last point is the most important one, and I hope to find someone here who has done this himself, and can share the brand and model for which it worked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Yes, I know I can just pay the 15 EUR everytime it breaks down and get a new one, and that this is less effort than repairing, yada yada, but it's a matter of principle: Why throw away a perfectly good component that just needs a bit of cleaning or lubricating? There's enough electronic garbage, I don't need unnecessarily add to it.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I couldn't find tags like &quot;fan&quot; or &quot;repairable&quot;, &quot;fan-controller&quot; seems to be the best that I can find. Please edit with better tags as appropriate). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9497" RevisionGUID="c5a8570a-c17c-48da-8b35-a4017d13569e" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:33:50.497" UserId="9544" Text="Repairable CPU fan for socket 115x" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9497" RevisionGUID="c5a8570a-c17c-48da-8b35-a4017d13569e" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:33:50.497" UserId="9544" Text="&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9498" RevisionGUID="a11f953f-9544-41a2-88e4-dd09c028f171" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:51:36.483" UserId="9544" Text="It's unlikely there are *any* HDDs with an embedded controller without firmware upgrade feature, though this upgrade feature need not be documented - the firmware developers will want to have access, too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you are doing reverse engineering, why not use a reverse engineered HDD firmware, and disable the upgrade feature yourself? Of course, you better don't make a mistake in this, because you'll have only one shot ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And on the subject of mobo firmware: There's plenty of places where there's firmware you won't expect (management engine, embedded controllers, network controllers, wifi controllers, ...) and you'll have to lock all of those down, too..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9499" RevisionGUID="b47fa1ca-2d38-4b80-aecb-b3a846419338" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:54:02.683" UserId="9544" Text="Basically all routers which you can flash with open-source router firmware (OpenWRT, Tomato, ...) will be able to do this. Once it's open source you can install any program you like, and there are plenty of torrent clients with commandline or web interfaces." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9500" RevisionGUID="5113c7ab-5fc6-4fe1-9728-3403cce1bf24" CreationDate="2018-07-22T07:57:46.727" UserId="9544" Text="Basically all routers where you can install open source firmware (OpenWRT, Tomato, ...) will be able to do this. However, you'll need some familiarity with Linux to set this up (or you need to know someone who does). University networks use EAP (as shown), and `wpa_supplicant` which is the standard WPA authorization client supports this, given the correct configuration file (where you'd also enter username and password).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now enable NAT (which should be the default), and you have your hotspot." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31159" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9501" RevisionGUID="bceb69ad-206f-43e7-a597-572dfc3a12c7" CreationDate="2018-07-22T08:03:08.777" UserId="9544" Text="Idea (haven't done this myself): Buy a dedicated outdoor router that supports power over ethernet (e.g. from Ubiquity or TP-Link). Those routers should already be at least somewhat weatherproof. Fix at top of mast, run ethernet cable through mast, add power-over-ethernet device somewhere in cabin. Connect to another router (which will create a hotspot, or provide LAN ports) inside as desired." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9410" RevisionGUID="02d49099-4ccc-40fa-9259-1af4bce28997" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:05:22.503" UserId="9372" Comment="better wording" Text="Since the public landline telephone system has been switched to SIP now (more or less all of it), it makes sense to start using native SIP phones instead of connecting an analog or ISDN or DECT phone to a SIP-capable PBX (such as FritzBox etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of these native SIP phones, I would like to try a wifi handset. This is a device looking much like a DECT handset, but instead of connecting to a base station via DECT (&quot;[IP-DECT][1]&quot; technology, using the [CAT-iq protocol][2]) it would connect via wifi. So, if there is a dependable wifi setup in the building, there's no need to add DECT coverage as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I can use any Android device with a SIP softphone app for this, but since there are people in the household used to a &quot;proper&quot; phone and not yet to &quot;fiddly&quot; smartphones, I rather want a single-purpose phone device with hardware buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I found several models, but all around 300 USD or more.** That sounds very strange, given that such a device is not more complex than a DECT handset available for 80 USD or less. Am I missing something?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP-DECT&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT-iq" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9411" RevisionGUID="140b0aa5-2c5c-46a4-a7b8-1c2327c28ded" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:14:27.250" UserId="9372" Comment="description of alternative solutions" Text="Here is a list of all the models I looked through … and there will not be many others, as it's a very small market. So far, nothing that meets the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Mitel 5624.** Technically what you want, but indeed around 500 USD. Rare as well, so not easily available in used condition (I checked eBay). This is reportedly sold under many whitelabeled versions, so possibly one of these is available cheaply, esp. used when bargain hunting on eBay … but I doubt it):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  * Mitel 5624 / MiVoice 5624 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * Unify OpenStage WL3 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * Alcatel 8118 / Alcatel 8128 ([source][1])&#xD;&#xA;  * *(probably there are more)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Siemens OptiPoint WL2 PRO.** In addition, a programmer &quot;OpenStage DP1&quot; is needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Innovaphone IP62.** In addition, a base station for programming is needed (art. no. 50-00060-21, [source][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Unidata INCOM ICW-1000G.** Ca. 200 EUR new ([source][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Ascom i62 Talker.** New ca. 320 EUR incl. VAT ([source][4]). Sometimes available used via eBay (ca. 120 EUR in one case). In addition, the Ascom DP1 programmer is needed (ca. 140 EUR, [source][2]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Nokia with VoWifi feature.** [Reportedly][5], some old Nokia mobile phones (and these had hardware keys!) had a feature in their Symbian operating system that allowed to use them as a SIP client on wifi networks. Could not yet confirm this. If so, such phones are still available cheaply, and you could simply operate them without a SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Avaya 3616 / 3626.** Cheap (25 EUR used on eBay) but not suitable as it only supports WEP as wifi security mode ([source][6]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **BlueTinum BT-WFP1000.** Not suitable, as it is so old that it only supports WEP as wifi security mode ([source][7]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Cisco 7921G / 7921G / 7925G / 7926G.** Often cheaply available via eBay (≥20 EUR), but not suitable, as these are not SIP phones. They only support Cisco's propretary SCCP protocol, and there is no wifi SIP phone by Cisco ([source][8]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, this class of products looks like a rip-off currently. So either get used to a SIP softphone on an Android smartphone (perhaps with [screen pinning][9] to exclusively show the phone app). Or get an IP-DECT based cordless SIP phone. These are available very cheaply used, for example (for Germany) Telekom Sinus 501 V. DECT is often strong enough to only need one access point in a house, and that can be a DECT base station that has just this one purpose, for example the [Siemens Gigaset GO-Box 100][10], available cheaply on eBay. This way you can keep your phone system nicely separate from your router and other network equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/wifi-telefon.291100/#post-2224918&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/siemens-openstage-wl3-alias-ascom-i62-in-heimischem-wlan-ein-erfahrungsbericht.259720/page-3#post-2239898&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://shop.voipdistri.com/VoIP-Telefone-IP-DECT/WLAN-IP-Telefone/INCOM-WLAN-VoIP-Telefon-INCOM-Wireless-IP-Telefon/INCOM-ICW-1000G-SIP-WLAN-Telefon-Wireless-VoIP-phone-Wireless-N.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.direct.de/ascom-i62-talker.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/wifi-calling-voice-over-wi-fi-wlan-call-telefonieren-%C3%BCber-wlan.286399/page-3#post-2280369&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://downloads.avaya.com/elmodocs2/comm_mgr/r2_0/245801_1_1/telephones/301107_1.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.ip-phone-forum.de/threads/bluetinum-bt-wfp1000-voip-wlan-telefon.285697/#post-2242499&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://supportforums.cisco.com/t5/wireless-ip-voice-and-video/when-will-7921g-7925-support-sip/td-p/2139613&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://gadgetguideonline.com/android/lollipop/how-to-use-screen-pinning-in-android-lollipop/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://blog.gigaset.com/gigaset-go/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31163" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9503" RevisionGUID="61b0c8a8-4dcc-4580-af94-89bf63e52727" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:32:58.457" UserId="9564" Text="I am going to purchase a Synology DiskStation 218+ for home usage. Now, this will be physically located in my apartment and I am fearing that the rattle of two SATA HDD will be disturbing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NAS will not be used constantly, but only from time to time as of the situation is right now. I think I think the required diskspace will be about 2 TB (RAID1). So looking at the compatibility list on Synologys website, the SSD drives there are quite expensive (2TB drives goes for about 450-900 USD, tax included converted from SEK). This sounds quite expensive and I am not sure if my nights sleep is worth this much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I am wondering two things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it possible to buy SSD drives that not is on the compatibility list?&#xD;&#xA;* Does anyone have an opinion on the sound, is having regular 3.5&quot; SATA going to be annoying or is it possible to live with this noise, unless I want to spend 1000-2000 USD on buying SSD drives?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BR&#xD;&#xA;Patrik" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31164" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9503" RevisionGUID="61b0c8a8-4dcc-4580-af94-89bf63e52727" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:32:58.457" UserId="9564" Text="Is it worth it to buy SSD drives to a Synology DS218+ for home use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31165" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9503" RevisionGUID="61b0c8a8-4dcc-4580-af94-89bf63e52727" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:32:58.457" UserId="9564" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31171" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9494" RevisionGUID="d23c8fe5-4f56-494c-aa49-445a1dd7a8cf" CreationDate="2018-07-22T17:41:36.337" UserId="6195" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="Sounds like an old Palm PDA. Tools for exception see e.g.: https://www.techrepublic.com/article/protect-your-pdas-with-these-encryption-options/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9494" RevisionGUID="4dee2c78-d4d3-4494-ade4-d8c9efc4c80c" CreationDate="2018-07-22T17:48:44.317" UserId="6195" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Sounds like an old Palm PDA e.g. m130. Tools for exception see e.g.: https://www.techrepublic.com/article/protect-your-pdas-with-these-encryption-options/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31177" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7813" RevisionGUID="8f9358ca-f8c9-4f82-9141-a507ffc8371c" CreationDate="2018-07-22T20:16:09.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="cf7904d1-8c84-413e-a410-b4bd5f5c5642" CreationDate="2018-07-23T02:10:20.223" UserId="9506" Comment="deleted 144 characters in body" Text="I am a graduate student and My thesis is based on deep learning, vision, video and Image processing. I am going to do heavy computing and processing. I am looking for a compatible laptop which has a fast GPU-enabled laptop. CUDA enabled on an NVIDIA GPU with 1 TFOPS would be a good choice. Also, it must have SSD. Anything by hp, Dell, Microsoft, Acer. do you have any recommendations? Are there any websites that introduce the best laptops? and new technologies?&#xD;&#xA;which one do you think is the best &quot;HP, DELL, Microsoft or Acer&quot;?&#xD;&#xA;my budget is $CAN 1800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31182" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9506" RevisionGUID="2563fb64-913f-49c7-b03d-8350c792d600" CreationDate="2018-07-23T04:15:48.297" UserId="9560" Text="My personal experience is based on WD EX4 with 4 WD 7200rpm 4TB disks in RAID5. Yes, there is noise. Especially when I run some task on the NAS itself (downloading, extracting huge archive, export a lot of images, copy huge amount of information). But even with such noise I have no problem to sleep in the next room (with open door between the rooms). Of course the sensitivity to such noise is something very personal, but my opinion is it's not a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW enterprise grade HDD are much more noisy (they are created for reliability) and I will not advise to add such disks in home NAS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9507" RevisionGUID="0519cf3b-2eb5-4f13-899e-f6e50ad0179a" CreationDate="2018-07-23T05:12:31.580" UserId="9411" Text="The [Replicant project][1] aims at creating a completely free, non-proprietary build of Android for certain devices. They still do have wireless radios, but using them requires non-free firmware, which Replicant doesn't provide. Effectively, the device cannot communicate wirelessly. For example Samsung Galaxy Nexus is supported, but without working WiFi and Bluetooth. Just remove SIM card and cellular radio will also be useless.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.replicant.us/supported-devices.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31184" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="0414a1cf-5598-4dac-b056-ddac166c46bc" CreationDate="2018-07-23T06:12:56.303" UserId="7197" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am looking for a small mobile device to display a list of sensitive information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage of the device must be encryptable and the user must first enter a PIN to decrypt the storage at boot time and second enter a PIN to authenticate himself in order to use the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the device can be up to common tablet size (~10,5''), but the smaller the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover, the device must own no wireless interfaces to reduce the possible attack surface. As a consequence it is only possible to I/O with the device via a wired interface (which should be a common type, e.g. USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the usage, the device should provide a touch screen, but this is not mandatory. Another kind of user interface interaction would also be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget does not play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background to this is as follows: I already tried to realize this via a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (gts28vewifi aka SM-T713) for which I have modified the LineageOS sources and build a custom variant that does not have WIFI and BT. But I failed as the device restarts after some time during the boot. *Most likely this is because the WIFI system is not found or some related consequences caused by removing WIFI and BT from the build.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your tips and suggestions. If more informations are necessary or I forgot something important, I will edit my question, of course. Maybe there is another possibility to satisfy those requirements I am not aware of at the moment :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31185" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="cb2318d9-eb4e-4eba-87d3-fd03896d8d9e" CreationDate="2018-07-23T07:47:20.997" UserId="7197" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a small mobile device to display a list of sensitive information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage of the device must be encryptable and the user must first enter a PIN to decrypt the storage at boot time and second enter a PIN to authenticate himself in order to use the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of the device can be up to common tablet size (~10,5''), but the smaller the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover, the device must own no wireless interfaces to reduce the possible attack surface. As a consequence it is only possible to I/O with the device via a wired interface (which should be a common type, e.g. USB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the usage, the device should provide a touch screen, but this is not mandatory. Another kind of user interface interaction would also be ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget does not play a role.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background to this is as follows: I already tried to realize this via a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (gts28vewifi aka SM-T713) for which I have modified the LineageOS sources and build a custom variant that does not have WIFI and BT. But I failed as the device restarts after some time during the boot. *Most likely this is because the WIFI system is not found or some related consequences caused by removing WIFI and BT from the build.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your tips and suggestions. If more information is necessary or I forgot something important, I will edit my question, of course. Maybe there is another possibility to satisfy those requirements I am not aware of at the moment :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="e22dce90-82ed-4649-85b9-8d91e960de4c" CreationDate="2018-07-23T14:08:06.810" UserId="5792" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra, 3rd-party ones proven reliable over many years&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Even when mapped, the key sizes don't feel right when used on macOS. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬──────────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ MK Pro L │ ANNE Pro │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪══════════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 7 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤ &#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3P    │     ✓    │ 6 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │          │          │ 5 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Solid Driver ║     │  3P  │          │          │ 4 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │     ✓    │          │ 3 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 2 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │          │          │ 1 pt&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  71% │    54%   │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴──────────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9510" RevisionGUID="8ae2a1fc-15e1-40d4-b4e1-c0e177c36881" CreationDate="2018-07-23T18:56:15.603" UserId="9571" Text="I am cutting the cable. Actually I just called Comcast. Cancelled my voice and TV. I will get Extreme Internet (250mbps) plus the modem rental from them. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a list of good options to buy my own cable modem and stop paying Comcast for renting it? Am I loosing any feature/convenience/putting myself at risk by buying my own instead of renting it from Comcast?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31199" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9510" RevisionGUID="8ae2a1fc-15e1-40d4-b4e1-c0e177c36881" CreationDate="2018-07-23T18:56:15.603" UserId="9571" Text="Best options to replace my Xfinity cable modem? (and avoid the $11/mo charge)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31200" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9510" RevisionGUID="8ae2a1fc-15e1-40d4-b4e1-c0e177c36881" CreationDate="2018-07-23T18:56:15.603" UserId="9571" Text="&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31202" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="c798d4fd-e696-4087-88b6-564efcb5aeb7" CreationDate="2018-07-24T00:20:48.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9511" RevisionGUID="9fc7a2bd-a3fc-4079-a9ab-f57827fad7c7" CreationDate="2018-07-24T01:28:56.690" UserId="9028" Text="Go to the [xFinity][1] retail device finder. I use the Motorola that is listed and it is great. Bought it at Best Buy and I do not pay any rental fee. I pay for the 200 Mbps service but get close to 250 Mbps most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31204" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="5625efc3-f7a7-47f5-ac4d-ea1a26541a57" CreationDate="2018-07-24T02:21:32.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31205" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9492" RevisionGUID="876936e6-a623-493c-a979-b6cec6c6af3d" CreationDate="2018-07-24T04:42:40.677" UserId="9560" Comment="added 205 characters in body" Text="You can use a notebook where WiFi/BT module can be easily removed. Examples include: Toshiba U925t Ultrabook, most (if not all) HP contemporary notebooks (just to mention few). IMO most of the contemporary notebooks use the same interface for WiFi/BT module which mean you can remove it on most of them. Just for the record for most of notebooks removing this module means you need to disassemble it in some degree.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Combining this hardware with MS Windows BitLocker (for an encrypted filesystem) and encrypted container based on Veracrypt or PGP disk as second level can do what you want. If you are not a fan of MS (almost) any Linux distribution has disk encryption for entire disk and can be combined also with Veracrypt/PGP&#xD;&#xA;Here is a image how this module looks like:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Some notebooks (Dell, not sure about the model) have hardware switch to go in &quot;Airplane mode&quot; which cut off all the wireless communications. This switch can be used to permanently disable WiFi/BT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xs5h0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31206" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="60ff6a9b-6ae4-41db-b8b6-a8dd79da202c" CreationDate="2018-07-24T13:19:44.893" UserId="32" Comment="75" />
  <row Id="31207" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="739ee691-4fe9-40ce-b715-db8426b50e77" CreationDate="2018-07-25T07:01:15.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31215" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9503" RevisionGUID="2ba2190d-72ee-4202-8815-ca574312b589" CreationDate="2018-07-25T14:54:30.480" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31217" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9510" RevisionGUID="01c64818-7b6e-4ec2-ad4d-aba0dba89a4b" CreationDate="2018-07-25T16:50:36.190" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31218" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="a2e6aa28-30bb-4ace-b5c2-430a74b13119" CreationDate="2018-07-25T17:00:39.873" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="d2c61d18-3340-47de-846e-f64a1758624e" CreationDate="2018-07-26T07:20:05.937" UserId="770" Text="I have a home theater system, A PC, and a PS4, Every time I switch between using the PC and the PS4, I have to unplug the 3.5mm Input for the speaker between the PS4 and the PC , this is frustrating since I have to go backside of the PS4 and PC all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I know I can buy an extension for the respective devices but still, I would have to manually swap each one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device of some sorts which will take two inputs and based on a switch state give the output to the speaker." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31228" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="d2c61d18-3340-47de-846e-f64a1758624e" CreationDate="2018-07-26T07:20:05.937" UserId="770" Text="How to have multiple output for home theater system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31229" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="d2c61d18-3340-47de-846e-f64a1758624e" CreationDate="2018-07-26T07:20:05.937" UserId="770" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31230" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="a7a88b17-645c-4a2e-8091-1f614f84f499" CreationDate="2018-07-26T09:00:34.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31231" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9515" RevisionGUID="d35fef9d-6715-442e-ba35-07c5468fe81b" CreationDate="2018-07-26T14:10:44.453" UserId="6047" Text="You didn't mention your location, but here are some options that ship free to UK (I used the zip code of Buckingham palace). You might also notice that I am only giving you Amazon links. This is because that is the only EU friendly purveyor I am familiar with as North American based companies will get hit with tax importation and VAT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Recommended Option: Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite £38 (MSRP: £45)][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;[![Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;So I know you asked specifically for a fan upgrade, but I wanted to recommend a cheap water cooling system as they are quieter than your traditional CPU fan and also more efficient at removing heat from your processor than your average fan. **This water cooler is rated at 8 dBA which according to the decibel scale chart is quieter than a ticking watch**. Also according to your extra requirement, you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; hope to find someone here who has done this himself, and can share the brand and model for which it worked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This just so happened to be the exact cooler I helped to install on a friend's LGA 1155 processor. I can also tell you it's very quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Non water cooling option: ARCTIC - Alpine 11 Plus £9.8 (MSRP: £12)][3]&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;[![ARCTIC - Alpine 11][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**According to it's [page on PC Part Picker,][5] it has a noise profile of 14.0 db**, and it's [American Amazon page][6], a maximum of 23 db, which puts it at about the same volume as &quot;rustling leaves&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Thermal Paste Recommendation: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut £7][7]&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;[![Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the best ceramic thermal pastes out there. Also happens to be the exact thermal paste I used with the Cooler Master upgrade on the LGA 1155 socket. As a reminder, you may want to buy some Isopropyl alcohol (nail polish remover) to help clean off the original thermal paste. Also remember you don't need to put a lot of thermal paste on the CPU to get it to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-MasterFan-MLW-D12M-A20PW-R1/dp/B06WRRDS73/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532613432&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=cooler+masterliquid+lite+120&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TI5wt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Alpine-11-PLUS-Sockets/dp/B00606OHQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532613241&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ARCTIC%2BAlpine%2B11%2BPlus&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sVNB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3jTmP6/arctic-cooling-cpu-cooler-ucacoap11301bua01&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00606OHQQ/?tag=pcpapi-20&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-thermal-grease/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532613933&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=thermal%20grizzly%20kryonaut&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d57yl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="1a860da5-e2e3-4bbf-ba91-7dd4e4215a28" CreationDate="2018-07-27T02:51:14.443" UserId="9583" Text="I am looking for a DDR4-3200mhz 16Gb (2x8) memory under 170$ that will work at full speed or over 3000 mhz out of the box without overclocking with ryzen 5 2600X or ryzen 7 1800X and gigabyte X470 aorus ultra gaming mobo or any equal mobo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please if anyone can help and i don't mind changing mobo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now i am considering G skill Flare X but its 250$ and a many say that AMD compatible is just a marketing thing.Did it work for anyone out of the box at full speed ?And is there any other cheaper ram ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31234" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="1a860da5-e2e3-4bbf-ba91-7dd4e4215a28" CreationDate="2018-07-27T02:51:14.443" UserId="9583" Text="Memory for amd ryzen 5 2600X ryzen 7 1800X" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31235" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="1a860da5-e2e3-4bbf-ba91-7dd4e4215a28" CreationDate="2018-07-27T02:51:14.443" UserId="9583" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31238" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="13d8eecf-11b5-4fed-85cd-6863d4d0aa5c" CreationDate="2018-07-27T07:00:47.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9517" RevisionGUID="cf0e48f0-cf71-4f61-82ab-3aa3c0a06ec9" CreationDate="2018-07-27T11:55:09.027" UserId="9084" Text="The way I've solved this problem in the past is with the PC's line-in jack.  While it requires the PC to have power to output sound, it allows you to chain the output.  You may need to go into the sound device manager for your PC's operating system and toggle the Line-In jack to get this to work, but you should only have to do that once.  Some computers combine their microphone jack with line-in, but most have a separate input jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a problem, however, if you are using sound from both at once.  If your computer is also making sounds, you may need to mute applications on the PC or you will hear both at once.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An alternative is a switching box, but most that have wireless control are HDMI-only.  HDMI carries audio, so if you can switch to that interface for these devices and have multiple ports on your home theatre receiver or TV, that might be the better option altogether. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9518" RevisionGUID="318a44c6-4ae6-47bc-90fb-bde40913f954" CreationDate="2018-07-27T12:10:49.290" UserId="9084" Text="That mobo will support up to 2933Mhz out o' the box, which is about right for 3000Mhz RAM (it's just more honest about what 3kMhz looks like in the math).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD compatible is really just a marketing thing, in that AMD specifically tested models using that memory to get the speeds they're reporting, and have confirmed it works with Ryzen's RAM-scaling features.  It is more like an endorsement than anything else. Anything 288-pin and DDR4 should do the job.  High-end memory exists mostly for those who plan to overclock that memory. G.Skill makes amazing RAM and I've been using them to obtain ridiculous overclocks on RAM since my old Athlon X2, but if you're planning to run stock speeds, they're overkill.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Corsair is a great mid-to-high range product that can be obtained inexpensively by comparison.   [This Corsair Vengeance kit][1] costs $100 less and will likely get you the results you want. Also, IIRC, Corsair's warranty extends to even if you overclock it later.   It did when I used them on my first i7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QM2X4CH9YYM4QH0WTB33" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31241" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="92e40f71-bb6e-4005-840b-436bd9ee9108" CreationDate="2018-07-27T15:42:25.357" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Rephrased the title to be more on-topic, some grammar and spelling for readability" Text="I have a home theater system, A PC, and a PS4. Every time I switch between using the PC and the PS4, I have to unplug the 3.5mm input for the speaker between the PS4 and the PC. This is frustrating since I have to go to the backside of the PS4 and PC all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I know I can buy an extension for the respective devices but I would have to manually swap each one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device of some sort which will take two inputs, and based on a switch state, give the output to the speaker?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31242" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="92e40f71-bb6e-4005-840b-436bd9ee9108" CreationDate="2018-07-27T15:42:25.357" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Rephrased the title to be more on-topic, some grammar and spelling for readability" Text="Device for multiple output to home theater system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31243" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9514" RevisionGUID="92e40f71-bb6e-4005-840b-436bd9ee9108" CreationDate="2018-07-27T15:42:25.357" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 60 edit id of 725" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9519" RevisionGUID="4e622b61-58d3-4810-a334-549a7fd89e17" CreationDate="2018-07-27T17:01:56.810" UserId="9584" Text="I am looking for a small server or nas for my home plaything&#xD;&#xA;It should be able to perform the following tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Function as Media server / net drive / TV-streaming / music-streaming&#xD;&#xA; - Have FTP server&#xD;&#xA; - host Webserver / mysql db&#xD;&#xA; - small hyper-v cluster  1-4 VMs&#xD;&#xA; - Backup my PC hardrives and all the above&#xD;&#xA; - maybe mirror the backup automatically (not an backup expert) 10TB to&#xD;&#xA;   20TB to be backed up&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard NAS's nowadays are pretty good? Are there solutions which can all of the above? &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Or would you recommand to spliting the funcs, between devices. &#xD;&#xA;Or build my own server/case with hardware components and use a specific OS and controller?&#xD;&#xA;Or maybe I should use actually labeled server to not to have problems with performance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Webserver would be running a few webpages(nothing user intensive) as well as be my test env. for private&#xD;&#xA;Hyper-Vs would be running SQL server and a few api connections streaming realtime data into the db as well as into some applications performing tasks ~ few gb a month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Costa quanta?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9519" RevisionGUID="4e622b61-58d3-4810-a334-549a7fd89e17" CreationDate="2018-07-27T17:01:56.810" UserId="9584" Text="Small bussines Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9519" RevisionGUID="4e622b61-58d3-4810-a334-549a7fd89e17" CreationDate="2018-07-27T17:01:56.810" UserId="9584" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="1487b5f5-1a7f-4cf1-b5af-aa2515eebc2f" CreationDate="2018-07-27T18:41:34.740" UserId="9586" Text="Is there anythin, you can buy, if you love the MacBook Trackpad and it's gestures, but when you're a windows desktop user?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple actually sells it's Magic Trackpad, but the problem is, that there are, as far as I know, no actual multitouch gestures supported, even with third party support applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the point: Is there an external trackpad/touchpad for windows devices with nice multitouch gestures?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="1487b5f5-1a7f-4cf1-b5af-aa2515eebc2f" CreationDate="2018-07-27T18:41:34.740" UserId="9586" Text="Windows desktop multitouch trackpad/touchpad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="1487b5f5-1a7f-4cf1-b5af-aa2515eebc2f" CreationDate="2018-07-27T18:41:34.740" UserId="9586" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31250" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="4fa362bd-bf14-47b7-93c4-f9d7c75c0258" CreationDate="2018-07-27T20:25:11.100" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I love the MacBook Trackpad and it's gestures, and I would like something like it that is compatible for Windows. I know Apple actually sells its Magic Trackpad, but the problem is that there are no actual multi-touch gestures supported, even with third party applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to the point: Is there an external trackpad/touchpad for Windows devices with nice multi-touch gestures?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31251" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="4fa362bd-bf14-47b7-93c4-f9d7c75c0258" CreationDate="2018-07-27T20:25:11.100" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Windows desktop multi-touch trackpad/touchpad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31252" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="4fa362bd-bf14-47b7-93c4-f9d7c75c0258" CreationDate="2018-07-27T20:25:11.100" UserId="60" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="10b9e05d-6e12-49e1-8972-5aaab6d53103" CreationDate="2018-07-27T23:32:09.987" UserId="9586" Comment="added 395 characters in body" Text="I love the MacBook Trackpad and it's gestures, and I would like something like it that is compatible for Windows. I know Apple actually sells its Magic Trackpad, but the problem is that there are no actual multi-touch gestures supported, even with third party applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to the point: Is there an external trackpad/touchpad for Windows devices with nice multi-touch gestures?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example Gestures:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Fingers swiped upwards: Overview of all present windows and desktops&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Fingers &quot;pinched&quot; (like zooming on a smartphone, but with 3 fingers): Overview of all present windows of the current desktop&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 fingers &quot;pinched&quot;: making desktop free; Pulling the 4 fingers back together puts windows back on screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Finger swiped horizontally: Switching between desktops&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9520" RevisionGUID="c012ddc8-325a-4dd2-983c-d4b6f8a9768f" CreationDate="2018-07-27T23:45:07.020" UserId="9586" Comment="added 236 characters in body" Text="I love the MacBook Trackpad and it's gestures, and I would like something like it that is compatible for Windows. I know Apple actually sells its Magic Trackpad, but the problem is that there are no actual multi-touch gestures supported, even with third party applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to the point: Is there an external trackpad/touchpad for Windows devices with nice multi-touch gestures?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example Gestures:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Fingers swiped upwards: Overview of all present windows and desktops&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 fingers &quot;pinched&quot;: making desktop free; Pulling the 4 fingers back together puts windows back on screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Finger swiped horizontally: Switching between desktops&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is actually not that much of a problem. I'm ready to pay a few bucks for decent hardware. Since Apple sells its newest Trackpad &quot;Magic Trackpad 2&quot; for 149.99 €, I think that might be a fair price for a decent Windows Trackpad" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31259" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="8a9893cb-215e-4b7e-91a5-74bfc1501a07" CreationDate="2018-07-28T01:01:17.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9521" RevisionGUID="b8841023-e23e-4252-95af-44c73578e200" CreationDate="2018-07-28T08:28:36.943" UserId="7556" Text="# Get a passive Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable, like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532766036&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As SiXandSeven8ths mentioned, [DisplayPort++ (also known as Dual Mode)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#DisplayPort_Dual-Mode_(DP++)) is a technology that allows DisplayPort to put out another signal for use with passive adapters. While limited because of this unidirectionality, it's an incredibly cheap, easy, and effective solution for what you're trying to do. Though it's difficult to confirm with your third laptop, almost all laptops with Mini DisplayPort support this mode because of its extreme popularity and utility–even when not indicated, like on the XPS 13.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing worth noting is the Thunderbolt 3 connection on your third laptop. Thunderbolt 3 (and USB-C, which can also carry a DisplayPort connection) cannot utilize DisplayPort++ because it lacks the necessary pin count to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While your solution of using a USB to VGA graphics adapter works, I would advise against this in the future. VGA is a much more limited connection, namely in that it is an analog rather than a digital signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEotO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9490" RevisionGUID="237ca8eb-329d-4d75-9a47-fc950859a9d8" CreationDate="2018-07-28T09:06:55.480" UserId="9560" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="As far as I know there is no extender which will permit you to do the login. If the WiFi mode is bridge the extender will be transparent and You will have no problem with web authentication (per device - laptop, tablet, smartphone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover the hotel policies are usually &quot;One device per account (user/password)&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9522" RevisionGUID="37ae3a37-045a-4086-b91f-54c32ff1667f" CreationDate="2018-07-28T09:18:01.173" UserId="9560" Text="I will offer you to check those devices: Synology DiskStation DS918+, Qnap TS-453A-4G. They support all you want. If you have bigger needs for disk space you can check next models Qnap TS-653A-4G, Qnap TS-853A-4G (with 6 / 8 HDD) and Synology DiskStation DS1517+, Synology NAS DiskStation DS1817+ (with 5 / 8 HDD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But do not expect super power for virtual machines and heavy load for MySQL server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9523" RevisionGUID="5098c8cd-c2a2-4e95-89f0-442b7798a3c4" CreationDate="2018-07-28T10:24:31.043" UserId="9587" Text="I live in a rural area where power outages happen quite often but my house has been equipped with a diesel generator to counter those outages, yet it takes 17 to 20 seconds to spin up, so all of the electronic equipment I have running on mains shuts down in that time. Now I want to install an uninterruptible power supply that can supply about 500-600 Watt for those 20-30 seconds, but most UPS that I found offer much longer time than I need, cost more and are more bulky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What equipment should I consider for my setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9523" RevisionGUID="5098c8cd-c2a2-4e95-89f0-442b7798a3c4" CreationDate="2018-07-28T10:24:31.043" UserId="9587" Text="UPS that can supply a lot of power for a short time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31266" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9523" RevisionGUID="5098c8cd-c2a2-4e95-89f0-442b7798a3c4" CreationDate="2018-07-28T10:24:31.043" UserId="9587" Text="&lt;power-control&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31267" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="8d024e97-1ca0-4f59-a464-c797478d4df3" CreationDate="2018-07-28T14:00:55.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31269" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="d8b57275-7e24-417e-ae26-6fc5f8cebb97" CreationDate="2018-07-28T15:00:56.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9524" RevisionGUID="39d5f8f6-478b-4c09-80f5-fc7cddf0036d" CreationDate="2018-07-28T16:53:48.397" UserId="9283" Text="I built a PC not very long ago. [Here][1] are the specs (I have a different case, but I couldn't find the one I own, so I chose a similar one). My 1050Ti is a really good graphics card. It seems to be a great overclocker as well. However, as a huge surprise to no one, it can't get 60FPS in 1080p in ultra settings in AAA titles like GTA 5 as it's a budjet card. I'm looking for a graphics card which will be able to achieve that and maintain it for as long as possible. The 1070Ti looks like an attractive option, however I think it would be better for me to wait for the next generation NVidia cards. An 1160 and an 1170 have been rumored, however they all need to be taken with a grain of salt. Lastly, it is said that NVidia currently are stuck with a large number of graphics cards because of the plummeting demand from miners. Should/Can I take advantage of this? I don't know anything about AMD cards, but that doesn't mean I won't accept an AMD card suggestion. My budjet is around 600-700$&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9YP6q4 &quot;Here&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9524" RevisionGUID="39d5f8f6-478b-4c09-80f5-fc7cddf0036d" CreationDate="2018-07-28T16:53:48.397" UserId="9283" Text="Graphics Card Upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9524" RevisionGUID="39d5f8f6-478b-4c09-80f5-fc7cddf0036d" CreationDate="2018-07-28T16:53:48.397" UserId="9283" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31273" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="15cd769f-1c39-4cba-997d-0f202caeed11" CreationDate="2018-07-28T17:00:01.043" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31274" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9525" RevisionGUID="60b1660d-e115-4cfd-80a5-178bb5d8792c" CreationDate="2018-07-28T18:51:17.863" UserId="9028" Text="I would wait. FINALLY, it is more than a rumor that a new gaming architecture is coming. nVidia has a talk titled 'NVIDIA’s Next Generation Mainstream GPU' at the HotChips conference next month. Also, they are sending out invites to GamesCon on August 21 for a 'PC related event'. Yes that is a gaming conference. Read about it at [The Verge][1] here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, if you really cannot wait or think you want to spend the money on the next generation, I would keep a hawk eye out for a 1080 Ti. I have already seen a couple of deals around $750 that disappear quickly. If new hardware really does come out and you keep looking, jump on one that is below your $700 threshold. It will happen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1080 Ti would be future proof for you. It will do 60 FPS with all setting on high and 1080P and you can even get 45-60 FPS with most setting high at 4K if you ever go there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.theverge.com/2018/7/2/17524744/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1180-release-date-launch-rumors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31275" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="358e9ef3-bcbb-475e-9e16-e2887f8e1559" CreationDate="2018-07-28T20:00:01.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9524" RevisionGUID="dc65d3ba-921d-466d-89c1-36614764a0b2" CreationDate="2018-07-28T22:53:50.193" UserId="9283" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="I built a PC not very long ago. [Here][1] are the specs (I have a different case, but I couldn't find the one I own, so I chose a similar one). My 1050Ti is a really good graphics card. It seems to be a great overclocker as well. However, as a huge surprise to no one, it can't get 60FPS in 1080p in ultra settings in AAA titles like GTA 5 as it's a budjet card. I'm looking for a graphics card which will be able to achieve that and maintain it for as long as possible. The 1070Ti looks like an attractive option, however I think it would be better for me to wait for the next generation NVidia cards. An 1160 and an 1170 have been rumored, however the 1160 especially needs to be taken with a grain of salt along with the rumored spcs. Lastly, it is said that NVidia currently are stuck with a large number of graphics cards because of the plummeting demand from miners. Should/Can I take advantage of this? I don't know anything about AMD cards, but that doesn't mean I won't accept an AMD card suggestion. My budjet is around 600-700$&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9YP6q4 &quot;Here&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31278" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="e9c79152-4247-4aa2-9a3f-cd500058695d" CreationDate="2018-07-29T00:01:51.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31282" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="1029f61c-0fa9-47f3-8c4f-31ca6dfa129a" CreationDate="2018-07-29T00:59:59.913" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="9bda4936-e818-4cc9-afb1-3c54b9e7594a" CreationDate="2018-07-29T10:58:32.270" UserId="9591" Text="I'm looking for small Type-C Male to 2x Type-C Female cable for smartphone (with the possibility of charging). But I really haven't even seen any. Is there an opportunity to find any, does they exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="9bda4936-e818-4cc9-afb1-3c54b9e7594a" CreationDate="2018-07-29T10:58:32.270" UserId="9591" Text="Type-C Male to 2x Type-C Female for mobile" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="9bda4936-e818-4cc9-afb1-3c54b9e7594a" CreationDate="2018-07-29T10:58:32.270" UserId="9591" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="1432773b-92fd-4df3-8858-11f53e91839c" CreationDate="2018-07-29T12:52:43.543" UserId="9593" Text="Please can someone recommend how much additional RAM (8GB or 4GB) shall I upgrade to for below present specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: Inspiron 5000 Series - 5567 Model, &#xD;&#xA;Processor - i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz,&#xD;&#xA;Ram - DDR4-2400 MHz with CL 15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present RAM usage is always above 80%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please suggest a which good RAM can I purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Looking for availability in India (Specifically in Mumbai location) :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31289" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="1432773b-92fd-4df3-8858-11f53e91839c" CreationDate="2018-07-29T12:52:43.543" UserId="9593" Text="Suggestion for RAM Up-gradation for Dell 5567 i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31290" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="1432773b-92fd-4df3-8858-11f53e91839c" CreationDate="2018-07-29T12:52:43.543" UserId="9593" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31291" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="c6c67a2a-315d-4f9c-8f25-ac5d0759d454" CreationDate="2018-07-29T12:58:50.187" UserId="9593" Comment="deleted 34 characters in body" Text="Please can someone recommend how much additional RAM (8GB or 4GB) shall I upgrade to for below present specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: Inspiron 5000 Series - 5567 Model, &#xD;&#xA;Processor - i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz,&#xD;&#xA;Ram - DDR4-2400 MHz with CL 15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present RAM usage is always above 80%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please suggest a which good RAM can I purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Looking for availability in India :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31292" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="e627c44a-4548-4490-98d1-c1032971013d" CreationDate="2018-07-29T13:05:20.953" UserId="9593" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Please can someone recommend how much additional RAM (8GB or 4GB) shall I upgrade to for below present specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: Inspiron 5000 Series - 5567 Model, &#xD;&#xA;Processor - i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz,&#xD;&#xA;Ram - DDR4-2400 MHz with CL 15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present RAM usage is always above 80%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please suggest which good RAM can I purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="c9eaf38c-c921-4191-8886-f5f940ae3971" CreationDate="2018-07-29T13:32:12.503" UserId="9593" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="Please can someone recommend how much additional RAM (8GB or 4GB) shall I upgrade to for below present specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: Inspiron 5000 Series - 5567 Model, &#xD;&#xA;Processor - i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz,&#xD;&#xA;Ram - 1x4GB DDR4-2400 MHz with CL 15,&#xD;&#xA;Memory Slots in Laptop = 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present RAM usage is always above 80%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please suggest which good RAM can I purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31294" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="4a43bd5e-a179-47c0-bc9f-0048c8143452" CreationDate="2018-07-29T17:01:10.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31295" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="b59ee14e-e997-426a-b5ea-dd8e93890cab" CreationDate="2018-07-29T21:01:15.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31296" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="5b60b18b-1c6a-4c85-a773-5c4fae5af33a" CreationDate="2018-07-29T22:00:50.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9530" RevisionGUID="767db35f-4336-4439-92fb-2c2dd6a7207d" CreationDate="2018-07-29T23:16:08.640" UserId="476" Text="Not sure how opposed to used things you are and/or where you live. I've taken the liberty of converting 1500 euros to 1750 USD. If you're willing to manually instal the requisite software and don't mind used parts, you **can** 'expect super power for virtual machines and heavy load for MySQL server', as said by Romeo Ninov.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Off of a quick ebay search, I found the dell R720XD server at **$1069 + shipping**. That comes to specifications of &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2x Xeon E5-2650v2 CPUs (Passmark score of 13k * 2 for 26k total)&#xD;&#xA;- 32GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 12 drive bays&#xD;&#xA;- iDRAC7 (for remote management)&#xD;&#xA;- PERC H710 (for RAID)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can then purchase 9 of [these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QTSDDQ) drives, for example, for 27TB or storage, or 21TB after RAID 6 is applied, which can be done through the RAID card, and that totals to $571.50 + $1069 = $1,640.50 + shipping&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9531" RevisionGUID="30ab619d-dada-4941-82e0-de0dc5120406" CreationDate="2018-07-30T03:04:26.173" UserId="5563" Text="I'm looking for a gaming keyboard that has onboard memory for macros, lighting, and profiles.  I've got the Razor Blackwidow Chroma V2 and I love it, but it lacks the onboard memory part.  I can program the macro buttons, but if I move the keyboard to another device, I lose the macros.  I'm not overly picky about the switch types.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31300" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9531" RevisionGUID="30ab619d-dada-4941-82e0-de0dc5120406" CreationDate="2018-07-30T03:04:26.173" UserId="5563" Text="Gaming Keyboard with onboard memory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31301" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9531" RevisionGUID="30ab619d-dada-4941-82e0-de0dc5120406" CreationDate="2018-07-30T03:04:26.173" UserId="5563" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9533" RevisionGUID="32f5e11e-c71e-4b35-9788-14a4c56440f1" CreationDate="2018-07-30T05:01:44.123" UserId="6047" Text="If you're looking for Surface pro's here are some options. Both have 8 gb of memory and 256 gb SSD. I would stay away from the 4 gb options as they are going to page to RAM a lot (be laggy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft Surface Pro 2 - USED ($399.99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specific processor is not listed, but according to the Wikipedia page it is either the i5-4200 U or i5-4300 U variant depending on it's manufacture date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft Surface Pro 3 - Refurbished ($484.99)][3]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features an i5-4300 U. You may want to consider this option as the tablet has, likely, underwent much less wear than the first option. Refurbished laptops are usually open-box returns, floor models, etc. I've never had problems with refurbished laptops. In fact I'm currently typing this answer on a MSI-GS60 ghost that still has an Activision sticker on it (first buyer, who obviously returned the laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft 3mm Surface Touch Cover Magnetic Keyboard ($25.99)][5]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like none of the used or refurbished options came with a keyboard. This means you'll have to buy your own. This is the super thin keyboard that I remember seeing on these models back in the day. If you want the beefier chiclet keyboard option that your probably thinking of I've taken the liberty of scouting out a [$39.99 for a horrendous cyan version][6], as well as a [$49.50 a black version that doesn't assault the eyes should you choose to splurge a bit][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAEWJ7957903&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSxvT.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA8R3U65927&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0JBP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5E65RT9233&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5E66NY0097&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAYZ7K40012" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9534" RevisionGUID="9c1c5dc1-79e6-4854-aa19-b71fa80641a5" CreationDate="2018-07-30T06:22:13.063" UserId="9594" Text="I need to buy a new laptop and I've been doing my homework for about 3 days now. After going through a lot of laptops, I've found that within my budget and keeping everything else in common (RAM, processor etc.), I'm having to choose between a laptop with 256 GB SSD (SATA) with a Intel Core i5 7th gen chip and a laptop with a 1TB HDD, but with the newer Intel Core i5 8th gen chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one will give me the greatest performance improvement? Going for the Intel Core i5 8th gen chip or the 256 GB SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31305" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9534" RevisionGUID="9c1c5dc1-79e6-4854-aa19-b71fa80641a5" CreationDate="2018-07-30T06:22:13.063" UserId="9594" Text="SSD or Intel Core i5 8250U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31306" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9534" RevisionGUID="9c1c5dc1-79e6-4854-aa19-b71fa80641a5" CreationDate="2018-07-30T06:22:13.063" UserId="9594" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9535" RevisionGUID="8bb05384-320a-4eb7-9673-8c88d95110d3" CreationDate="2018-07-30T10:01:00.310" UserId="9595" Text="The real question is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What do you need it for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**&#xD;&#xA;=======&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't really care about the processor, as long as you don't do anything requiring an intensive processing power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find a lot of cpu comparing sites by searching on any search engine &quot;cpu compare&quot; or &quot;cpu benchmark&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage&#xD;&#xA;=======&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SSD will gargantuanly benefit the performance. The computer will start faster, the programs will start faster, everything will be faster. But with 250GB you may not have enough space, depending on what you do. Do you store photos, videos and bigger files on your computer or do you use cloud services? If you don't, with time you may run out of space without an external hard disk. Meanwhile, the 1TB hard disk will give you a lot of space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, could you post the specific model of processors in your post? I don't yet have enough reputation to comment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9535" RevisionGUID="ec609067-3209-4af1-ab5a-b4a8a138628b" CreationDate="2018-07-30T11:12:05.763" UserId="9595" Comment="Added edit part." Text="The real question is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What do you need it for?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**&#xD;&#xA;=======&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't really care about the processor, as long as you don't do anything requiring an intensive processing power. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find a lot of cpu comparing sites by searching on any search engine &quot;cpu compare&quot; or &quot;cpu benchmark&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage&#xD;&#xA;=======&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SSD will gargantuanly benefit the performance. The computer will start faster, the programs will start faster, everything will be faster. But with 250GB you may not have enough space, depending on what you do. Do you store photos, videos and bigger files on your computer or do you use cloud services? If you don't, with time you may run out of space without an external hard disk. Meanwhile, the 1TB hard disk will give you a lot of space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, could you post the specific model of processors in your post? I don't yet have enough reputation to comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used [this website][1] and [Intel's official catalogue][2] of products for a comparison, take a look as they are very helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main difference between the 2 is the number of cores. The 7th generation one got 2 cores while the 8th generation one got 4 (I'm talking about physical cores, not thread or &quot;virtual&quot; cores). Remember that they are both low-end cores, so you may have problems calculating, as you said in the comments, macros or data in number of millions, with both of the computers. Still on a Windows environment an SSD will be a greater advantage compared to a slower-quad core processor, as Windows is *very* resource demanding when talking about hard disks speeds (I'm looking at you Cortana).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-7200U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-8250U/m153577vsm338266&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/it/compare/95443,124967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9533" RevisionGUID="27222a62-add4-4d62-914f-c3912dabe0b9" CreationDate="2018-07-30T13:36:18.887" UserId="6047" Comment="grammar" Text="If you're looking for Surface pro's here are some options. Both have 8 gb of memory and 256 gb SSD. I would stay away from the 4 gb options as they are going to page to RAM a lot (be laggy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft Surface Pro 2 - USED ($399.99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specific processor is not listed, but according to the Wikipedia page it is either the i5-4200 U or i5-4300 U variant depending on it's manufacture date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft Surface Pro 3 - Refurbished ($484.99)][3]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features an i5-4300 U. You may want to consider this option as the tablet has, likely, underwent much less wear than the first option. Refurbished laptops are usually open-box returns, floor models, etc. I've never had problems with refurbished laptops. In fact I'm currently typing this answer on a MSI-GS60 ghost that still has an Activision sticker on it (first buyer, who obviously returned the laptop).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft 3mm Surface Touch Cover Magnetic Keyboard ($25.99)][5]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like none of the used or refurbished options came with a keyboard. This means you'll have to buy your own. This is the super thin keyboard that I remember seeing on these models back in the day. If you want the beefier chiclet keyboard option that your probably thinking of I've taken the liberty of scouting out one for [$39.99, but is the horrendous cyan version][6], as well as the [$49.50 a black version that doesn't assault the eyes should you choose to splurge a bit][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAEWJ7957903&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSxvT.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA8R3U65927&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0JBP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5E65RT9233&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5E66NY0097&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAYZ7K40012" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31310" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9536" RevisionGUID="6b0b9188-c036-4e00-aab6-115cc2133ce9" CreationDate="2018-07-30T14:04:33.927" UserId="6047" Text="You mentioned that the UPS systems you looked at were far too pricey and bulky, so my guess is that it is likely you were looking at production grade systems. Based on the specs you issued, the cheapest systems I can find are going to be around $100. Both systems also come with supplementary software that can communicate with Windows, Mac, and Linux and I believe, provide soft shutdown options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CyberPower Ecologic EC850LCD $86.95 (MSRP: $97.99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![CyberPower Ecologic EC850LCD][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 510 Watt power rating&#xD;&#xA; - 850 Volt-Amperes&#xD;&#xA; - Battery Run-time on full load: 1 minute&#xD;&#xA; - Dimensions: 12.20&quot; x 7.00&quot; x 3.10&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 7.70 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This UPS system's form factor is going to be about 2-3 power strips based on it's dimensions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[CyberPower Intelligent LCD UPS CP1000AVRLCD $109.95][3]&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![CyberPower Intelligent LCD UPS CP1000AVRLCD][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 600 Watt power rating&#xD;&#xA; - 1000 Volt-Amperes&#xD;&#xA; - Battery Run-time on full load: 2 Minutes&#xD;&#xA; - Dimensions: 8.75&quot; x 4.25&quot; x 10.50&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 15.90 lbs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have the money to spend, consider this option as this will be better equipped to handle the 600 W maximimum specification you asked for. As far as form factor, the site claims the UPS system to be about the size of a &quot;Mini-Tower&quot;, so this one will be the size of a tiny desktop computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102216&amp;cm_re=UPS-_-42-102-216-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvshE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102082&amp;cm_re=UPS-_-42-102-082-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tOqo.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9538" RevisionGUID="a6f88a5d-5966-4b72-9ae8-bf0cf63c50ed" CreationDate="2018-07-30T16:25:30.120" UserId="527" Text="I purchased a [powered USB 3 Hub with individual switches][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears to meet all these criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have external power source&#xD;&#xA; - 3-5 ports total (keep it small)&#xD;&#xA; - Individual toggle switches for each port&#xD;&#xA; - USB3 speeds for all ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, when actually using it, it doesn't deliver USB3 speeds beyond port 1.  See [this Super User SE question][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a powered USB3 hub that actually is confirmed to deliver USB3 speeds for all ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note this is different from a similar question in which the external power is optional... it is a requirement here.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/MITUTEN-Splitter-Superspeed-Transfer-Individual/dp/B07CQQDYQZ/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/questions/1344522/should-all-drives-on-a-usb-3-0-usb3-hub-be-the-same-speed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31315" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9538" RevisionGUID="a6f88a5d-5966-4b72-9ae8-bf0cf63c50ed" CreationDate="2018-07-30T16:25:30.120" UserId="527" Text="Powered USB 3.0 (USB3) Hub with individual switches that delivers USB3 speed to each port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31316" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9538" RevisionGUID="a6f88a5d-5966-4b72-9ae8-bf0cf63c50ed" CreationDate="2018-07-30T16:25:30.120" UserId="527" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9539" RevisionGUID="1c813158-2bec-4334-8f99-aee6e13d438d" CreationDate="2018-07-30T18:47:59.323" UserId="9597" Text="I have a laptop with a 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 screen. I want to purchase a monitor to&#xD;&#xA;use with this laptop. I use XFCE, it is not possible to specify DPI per monitor&#xD;&#xA;in XFCE. In order to make text on the monitor to be the same size as on the&#xD;&#xA;laptop screen, I want the monitor DPI to be as close as possible to the laptop&#xD;&#xA;screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I made some calculations and composed a list of common monitor resolutions and&#xD;&#xA;sizes that would have a DPI close the needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    |Width|Height|Size (inch)|DPI             |&#xD;&#xA;    |-----|------|-----------|----------------|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |23.0       |131.255389663396|&#xD;&#xA;    |3200 |1600  |27.0       |132.507731999988|&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1200  |17.0       |133.185615981976|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |22.0       |133.509525459533|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |19.0       |134.736842105263|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |21.5       |136.614398144639|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |22.0       |137.221543739005|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |2160  |32.0       |137.681698130144|&#xD;&#xA;    |3440 |1440  |27.0       |138.119846172523|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |18.5       |138.378378378378|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |1600  |30.0       |138.666666666667|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |20.0       |138.924439894498|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |21.5       |140.41274243061 |&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1080  |15.6       |141.211998082199|  &lt;- My laptop&#xD;&#xA;    |4096 |2160  |32.0       |144.707463525556|&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1200  |15.6       |145.138171262409|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |19.0       |146.236252520524|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |20.0       |146.860478005487|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |2160  |30.0       |146.860478005487|&#xD;&#xA;    |3200 |1600  |24.0       |149.071198499986|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |18.5       |150.188583669728|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |17.0       |150.588235294118|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |20.0       |150.943698112906|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I failed to find any existing monitors sold with these parameters. What monitors exist with a DPI as close to 141 as possible?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31318" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9539" RevisionGUID="1c813158-2bec-4334-8f99-aee6e13d438d" CreationDate="2018-07-30T18:47:59.323" UserId="9597" Text="141 DPI monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31319" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9539" RevisionGUID="1c813158-2bec-4334-8f99-aee6e13d438d" CreationDate="2018-07-30T18:47:59.323" UserId="9597" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31321" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9454" RevisionGUID="29ccfbef-1112-4670-9c21-e12648d9490f" CreationDate="2018-07-30T19:36:14.253" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31329" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8629" RevisionGUID="2cd3764d-67b0-4d78-90ac-53d3f3070f7c" CreationDate="2018-07-30T23:01:23.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31330" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="086425ab-363a-4278-bf2b-8fd4d78e5afb" CreationDate="2018-07-31T02:01:00.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9539" RevisionGUID="38602834-ccb4-40d4-9ced-1f4b8b64e943" CreationDate="2018-07-31T06:27:12.853" UserId="9597" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I have a laptop with a 15.6&quot; 1920x1080 screen. I want to purchase a monitor to&#xD;&#xA;use with this laptop. I use XFCE, it is not possible to specify DPI per monitor&#xD;&#xA;in XFCE. In order to make text on the monitor to be the same size as on the&#xD;&#xA;laptop screen, I want the monitor DPI to be as close as possible to the laptop&#xD;&#xA;screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I made some calculations and composed a list of common monitor resolutions and&#xD;&#xA;sizes that would have a DPI close to the needed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    |Width|Height|Size (inch)|DPI             |&#xD;&#xA;    |-----|------|-----------|----------------|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |23.0       |131.255389663396|&#xD;&#xA;    |3200 |1600  |27.0       |132.507731999988|&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1200  |17.0       |133.185615981976|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |22.0       |133.509525459533|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |19.0       |134.736842105263|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |21.5       |136.614398144639|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |22.0       |137.221543739005|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |2160  |32.0       |137.681698130144|&#xD;&#xA;    |3440 |1440  |27.0       |138.119846172523|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |18.5       |138.378378378378|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |1600  |30.0       |138.666666666667|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |20.0       |138.924439894498|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |21.5       |140.41274243061 |&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1080  |15.6       |141.211998082199|  &lt;- My laptop&#xD;&#xA;    |4096 |2160  |32.0       |144.707463525556|&#xD;&#xA;    |1920 |1200  |15.6       |145.138171262409|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |19.0       |146.236252520524|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1440  |20.0       |146.860478005487|&#xD;&#xA;    |3840 |2160  |30.0       |146.860478005487|&#xD;&#xA;    |3200 |1600  |24.0       |149.071198499986|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1080  |18.5       |150.188583669728|&#xD;&#xA;    |2048 |1536  |17.0       |150.588235294118|&#xD;&#xA;    |2560 |1600  |20.0       |150.943698112906|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I failed to find any existing monitors sold with these parameters. What monitors exist with a DPI as close to 141 as possible?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31333" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2181" RevisionGUID="d09e9038-f18b-47cd-a435-7909641d0b2d" CreationDate="2018-07-31T08:01:08.953" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31334" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9542" RevisionGUID="b838bb70-41f7-4507-9829-61dfb695323d" CreationDate="2018-07-31T10:53:01.740" UserId="9599" Text="I want to buy a scanner for my future Linux machine. But I am worried about spyware since scanners bundle third-party proprietary software with the scanner and printer manufacturers already use [steganography](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Identification_Code).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any company sell open-source scanners with the same business model as the [MakerBot Replicator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Makerbot#Replicator), whose plans were open-source and the company had profits from customers who didn't want to make the 3D printer from scratch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31335" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9542" RevisionGUID="b838bb70-41f7-4507-9829-61dfb695323d" CreationDate="2018-07-31T10:53:01.740" UserId="9599" Text="Open-source linux scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31336" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9542" RevisionGUID="b838bb70-41f7-4507-9829-61dfb695323d" CreationDate="2018-07-31T10:53:01.740" UserId="9599" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31337" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="d03f6525-a339-4a34-877a-79a062103fd3" CreationDate="2018-07-31T12:01:41.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9543" RevisionGUID="fc021745-1add-4fe3-84fa-d287f8735417" CreationDate="2018-07-31T16:13:27.817" UserId="9600" Text="I am looking for a vertical mouse that also has a step-less or free swinging scroll where, which works similar like the ones from the Logitech G-Series mice, where you have a button to unlock the scroll wheel, so that you can scroll a long way by just swinging the scroll wheel once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked through tons of vertical mice online but did not encounter one with such an unlockable scroll wheel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know of any such vertical mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31339" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9543" RevisionGUID="fc021745-1add-4fe3-84fa-d287f8735417" CreationDate="2018-07-31T16:13:27.817" UserId="9600" Text="Vertical Mouse with Stepless Scroll Wheel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31340" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9543" RevisionGUID="fc021745-1add-4fe3-84fa-d287f8735417" CreationDate="2018-07-31T16:13:27.817" UserId="9600" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31341" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="931f80c5-07a9-4ec0-810b-434c4ad12aa9" CreationDate="2018-07-31T20:29:08.217" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling...." Text="Suggestion for RAM upgrade for Dell 5567 i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31342" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="931f80c5-07a9-4ec0-810b-434c4ad12aa9" CreationDate="2018-07-31T20:29:08.217" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 7556, 476 edit id of 726" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31343" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="d318a4d9-b897-40ee-8424-4bd272455caa" CreationDate="2018-07-31T23:01:38.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="2d98ac50-26f4-44f4-b100-efccd7ac279c" CreationDate="2018-07-31T23:51:10.057" UserId="4933" Text="I recently learnt about the [Dead Drops project](https://deaddrops.com/), and have found a few dead drops in my city listed on the database. I want to determine whether these dead drops are still extant, and if they are, connect my laptop to them to see what's on them. However, connecting a wall-mounted flash drive directly into a laptop's USB port is pretty awkward to do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What cables exist out there that could act as an extender for the flash drive, so that one end can be inserted into the drive, and the other into my laptop's USB port so that I can read the contents of the USB drive as normal? This seems a trivially simple piece of hardware, but now that I think about it, I've never heard of anything like this and I don't know what it would be called." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31345" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="2d98ac50-26f4-44f4-b100-efccd7ac279c" CreationDate="2018-07-31T23:51:10.057" UserId="4933" Text="Extender cable to connect USB flash drive to USB port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31346" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="2d98ac50-26f4-44f4-b100-efccd7ac279c" CreationDate="2018-07-31T23:51:10.057" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9545" RevisionGUID="0f1cc7a3-09f4-47f0-9801-65ab10245d62" CreationDate="2018-07-31T23:56:56.317" UserId="4933" Text="As it happens, it turns out that typing out the question was the impetus I needed to properly think about what I was looking for. Turns out the search term I needed to be looking for was *&quot;male to female USB cable&quot;*, which brings back results for &quot;USB extension cable&quot;. I could have sworn I'd already tried searching for the latter, but either way, [Amazon lists several](https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=male+to+female+usb+cable&amp;rh=n%3A560798%2Ck%3Amale+to+female+usb+cable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31348" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="d87f5b94-d959-4ff4-8814-cea9ba31f191" CreationDate="2018-08-01T00:00:52.850" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31354" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="6571511d-abb9-4333-b5d4-af99ceebaf44" CreationDate="2018-08-01T03:30:17.137" UserId="9593" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="Please can someone recommend how much additional RAM (8GB or 4GB) shall I upgrade to for below present specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: Inspiron 5000 Series - 5567 Model, &#xD;&#xA;Processor - i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40 MHz,&#xD;&#xA;Ram - 1x4GB DDR4-2400 MHz with CL 15,&#xD;&#xA;Memory Slots in Laptop = 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present RAM usage is always above 80%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please suggest which good RAM can I purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Looking for preferences within India. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31355" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="505b6b55-ae40-4b89-98e3-4424dbac5d87" CreationDate="2018-08-01T07:00:41.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31359" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7162" RevisionGUID="c927ae79-5c47-4758-b263-e733ef9afc55" CreationDate="2018-08-01T10:02:05.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31362" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="2670" RevisionGUID="c0bd0d3c-4a2e-433b-b0c9-c202f4e7e30f" CreationDate="2018-08-01T15:00:56.603" UserId="-1" Comment="75" />
  <row Id="31367" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9549" RevisionGUID="b47d7b84-b22e-493c-9fe7-8a09cdfdc9ac" CreationDate="2018-08-01T20:20:15.657" UserId="57" Text="I'm looking to massively upgrade my home infrastructure. I have multiple wired and wireless devices - desktop computers, laptops, servers, tablets, phones, assistants (Alexa, Google Assistant, etc), game consoles, home automation hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My end goal is to have multiple networks. A &quot;safe&quot;/green network for devices I trust (my computers, game consoles) that will be a combination of wired and wireless, a home automation network where the assistants and automation hardware will live that will need a single wired port and the rest will be wireless, a DMZ where the servers will live that will be all wired access and a guest wireless network that will be all wireless access. The devices that can control the home automation will probably live on that specific network as well due to how the automation devices work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a router (with possible additional access points) to cover the entire house and a bit of the yard. This is roughly 4000 square feet across two levels. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want to build a Linux based router for this. I understand that such distributions exist. I'm not interested in that. I want a single device (router) and possibly complimentary access points where I just need to configure things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional nice to haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless that operates on both 2.4 and 5Ghz frequencies. &#xD;&#xA; - Ability to open and close access between the various networks. For example, a firewall hole between the &quot;green&quot; network and the DMZ for SSH access or preventing the guest network from communicating communicating with any of the other three networks.&#xD;&#xA; - Intuitive user interface for configuring all of this.&#xD;&#xA; - DHCP server for each network, with different IP ranges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm guessing the budget for this router and an access point or two that can handle all of this will be less than $1,000. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31368" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9549" RevisionGUID="b47d7b84-b22e-493c-9fe7-8a09cdfdc9ac" CreationDate="2018-08-01T20:20:15.657" UserId="57" Text="Router that can support multiple wired and wireless networks/vlans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31369" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9549" RevisionGUID="b47d7b84-b22e-493c-9fe7-8a09cdfdc9ac" CreationDate="2018-08-01T20:20:15.657" UserId="57" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31370" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="9df79d89-1d93-4fc2-bddd-c15b65e1eab8" CreationDate="2018-08-01T22:01:04.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31371" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="9d7b562d-6400-40ab-8a09-836f9780a000" CreationDate="2018-08-02T01:32:43.280" UserId="9606" Text="I currently have a 5 year old HP labtop running Windows 7. I live in a rural area where our internet speeds are 1 MB or less. I am actually able to do skype calls and online video chats with people online even with my poor internet connection (it is very low quality but it works).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7 is starting to get a bit old and I was thinking that it was time to get a new labtop. The first labtop that I got was a HP Stream 15 or 14 inch screen with 4 GB of RAM. I know that it is not a powerful computer, but I mostly just browse the web and use skype. Unfortunately, Windows 10 has such large updates that 100% of my internet connection is always consumed by updates. My DSL modem is running/sending traffic continually. At times, it is very difficult to even get it to load google. The HP Stream has behaved like this even when it was new - so it doesn't have a virus and I installed a virus checker and did a scan to verify that it has no viruses. My Windows 7 labtop does not consume large amounts of bandwidth like the HP Stream. I also tried setting my wifi connection to be metered, but it still consumes all of my available internet bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next device that I tried was an Acer Chromebook. I know that skype doesn't run natively on chromebooks, but I found some online browser based video chat websites and tried using one of these (there is also an online version of skype). However, about 10 minutes into the chat, the entire labtop's screen goes black and it crashes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've now tried both Windows 10 and Chromebooks. Windows 10 would be fine if it could download multi-gigabyte updates (I've even left my HP Stream on overnight in hopes that it would download the updates, but it is still not done in the morning). Chromebooks would be fine if they didn't crash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good recommendation for a labtop that would work well on a super slow internet connection? Should I look for a new windows 7 labtop? Macs are too expensive for me to try." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31372" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="9d7b562d-6400-40ab-8a09-836f9780a000" CreationDate="2018-08-02T01:32:43.280" UserId="9606" Text="Labtop for video conferencing on slow rural internet connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31373" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="9d7b562d-6400-40ab-8a09-836f9780a000" CreationDate="2018-08-02T01:32:43.280" UserId="9606" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31374" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9551" RevisionGUID="b7112af0-76a0-489c-80a8-4bd8b1f5e7cc" CreationDate="2018-08-02T02:27:21.563" UserId="40" Text="You can use Hushme's stenomask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.gethushme.com&#xD;&#xA;- preorder only&#xD;&#xA;- price: 189 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2PLlN.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjqWk.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/djJBT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31375" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="a8225e5b-a24a-4ba7-a1a7-c65e1ab5b5cb" CreationDate="2018-08-02T03:00:50.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9552" RevisionGUID="fc4796df-92d8-4703-bcd7-a107299920c2" CreationDate="2018-08-02T05:21:52.043" UserId="1329" Text="Chromebooks can run Android apps, the problem with that is that you will see more frequent updates of apps and Skype for example is quite big for what it does (~150MB). If you are lucky you may notice that updates get smaller with newer operating systems like Chrome OS, Windows 10 or [Fedora][1] which should be able to use delta compression and only download the new bits. At least Fedora should be able to do that with DeltaRPMs which it uses by default. I don't know how it plays out for flatpak updates or [Silverblue][2] though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://getfedora.org/en/workstation/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://teamsilverblue.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9554" RevisionGUID="e974b7c2-f873-4bbe-9c6b-8331f1d9e5df" CreationDate="2018-08-02T09:25:19.020" UserId="9595" Text="The Free Software Foundation has made a list of GNU/Linux compatible hardwares, freely editable by anyone with an account, which can be found here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then after going to that website go to H-node's search (H-node is the directory of FOSS hardware):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://h-node.org/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And go to scanners category:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9555" RevisionGUID="cc24a84c-dec7-48d4-a36b-1796f007d489" CreationDate="2018-08-02T11:48:04.673" UserId="9084" Text="Having had a very similar use-case, I highly recommend Ubiquiti EdgeMax Routers for managing your network.  They are high quality options (with some nice security and resource delegation features) and have many models that support Power Over Ethernet on at least one port.  They also work well when establishing the kind of subnets you are talking about. I've used one in combination with my modem to form a gateway for quite some time. Just a couple of $60 models to separate the concerns of managing the two different networks (so that a problem with one doesn't mean a problem with the other) and to allow isolation of the network you don't want reachable by guests would do the trick. This also gives the option of setting up two subnets for your networks if you get three routers, all for under $200 together.  They're also usually about the size of a cell phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was running this through a mid-range Asus router, but it failed as an AP unless I also allowed it to run its own subnet and function as a router.  Even then, reliability was sketchy.   I recently replaced it with an Ubiquiti AP-Pro, which supports both bands under one network ID.  It has its own software for managing access and has an option for activation and management of a guest network with restrictions as to what guests may do.   The unit is weather-resistant and is designed to be wall- or ceiling-mounted if you like, so it's possible to even mount them externally. It also has a second ethernet port for bridging or connecting a computer directly to the wired connection, making it easy to chain multiple across a house instead of setting up a mesh network or configuring the device to repeat a signal and lose bandwidth.  I currently use only one of these on my second floor of my 5000 sq ft home; a direct connected device consistently gets nearly 1Gb/s speeds on the internet (which is max 1Gb/s), a wireless-AC connection one floor down usually gets 500Mb/s minimum, and my son's connection across the house never drops below 200Mb/s.  The unit cost me about $90 as it connects to the PoE on the router for power, but you can get an injector for about $20 if you need to supply power another way.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3x Ubiquiti EdgeMax = $180 (because this gets you DHCP 3x and separates your APs entirely based on network)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3x Ubiquiti AC-Pro = $270-340 (depending on power connection and presuming you need more than one due to geography)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4x Decent wall Surge Suppressor (if you hook up your units with PoE Injectors instead of normal PoE) = $80&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Huge spool of Cat5e (6 is a waste for 1Gb and down) = $80&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Crimping Tool = $30 (because crimping your own cables is infinitely cheaper in the long haul)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ethernet plug headers = $10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total: $650 - $720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31388" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="7118c374-8de2-417a-b27e-287ec11ac7e5" CreationDate="2018-08-02T14:00:48.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9557" RevisionGUID="b3fb1708-df40-4e45-a7ed-1849ab0554b2" CreationDate="2018-08-02T15:45:18.930" UserId="6047" Text="According to [Dell's memory upgrade tool here are some RAM sticks you can purchase][1]. According to the [Intel spec sheet][2] for your processor, you can support up to 32 gb split across 2 slots (16 each). I extracted the memory specs from their sheets to find RAM that will be compatible with your computer. I was only able to find RAM with CAS latency of 15. Since your laptop has two slots, if you keep your current RAM in the first slot, you'll have 12 gb of RAM which should be more than enough for your usage scenarios.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recommended RAM that should ship within India for free (I used the zip code of New Delhi)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have your choice between Kingston and Crucial. They're pretty much the same price and the same from a technical standpoint. You have the luxury of picking the brand you feel more comfortable with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Kingston 8GB 260 pin DDR4-2133 ₹6,999 (MSRP: ₹16,157.15)][3]&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - [Crucial 8GB 260 pin DDR4-2133 ₹7,000][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/pfydresults/248891?categoryId=4325&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/95442/Intel-Core-i3-7100U-Processor-3M-Cache-2_40-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/Kingston-Technology-2133MHz-Laptops-KCP421SD8/dp/B0187IKCY0/ref=sr_1_7?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1533223777&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=2133%20DDR4%20260%20pin%208gb&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-755029&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.in/Crucial-CT8G4SFS8213-2133MHz-260-Pin-Laptop/dp/B01DUULCBM/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1533223777&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2133%20DDR4%20260%20pin%208gb&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-755029" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9559" RevisionGUID="de53e3a2-6627-418c-83c9-2e6ad9dbc4ef" CreationDate="2018-08-02T20:44:38.923" UserId="1951" Text="I ended up buying the [Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer][1]. It cost more than twice what I wanted to spend, but I couldn't find anything cheaper that supported stereo, so ‍♂️. It's a &quot;powered&quot; mixer, so it has to be plugged into an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mixer created a buzzing sound, so I had to also buy a cheap ground loop isolator (I think it was [this][2] model). I've read that these can theoretically affect audio quality, which bothers me, but at least I couldn't personally notice a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a slightly cheaper, unpowered mixer: the [Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer][3] . This is the one I bought first, but I ultimately had to return it. It decreases the volume by a lot, which was too much for my setup. However, I didn't having any buzzing issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mixers use RCA, so I also needed a couple 3.55mm → RCA adapters. These are super cheap and I already had several on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WKDH46/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00102ZN40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7201" RevisionGUID="4f52726b-6402-44d0-933f-c20eeca9975c" CreationDate="2018-08-02T20:47:56.843" UserId="1951" Comment="edited body" Text="I have two audio sources, both using 3.55mm &quot;headphone jack&quot; outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have one set of powered stereo speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to connect both sources to my single pair of speakers. Ideally, I'd like to be able to hear both sources at the same time, but this isn't completely necessary. I ABSOLUTELY do not want to have to press a button to manually switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need anything fancy—-no individual volume control or microphone inputs or anything like that. But I do want to avoid any significant loss of audio quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I do this for under $25? Or if that's completely unreasonable, how can I do it for as little money as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; While I suspect this won't matter since the audio is already analog, I play a lot of rhythm video games, so anything that introduces latency is a no-go.&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9559" RevisionGUID="9d8ae8b5-cd77-4391-88ae-e168e678c6e5" CreationDate="2018-08-02T20:52:57.883" UserId="1951" Comment="added 272 characters in body" Text="I ended up buying the [Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer][1]. It cost more than twice what I wanted to spend, but I couldn't find anything cheaper that supported stereo, so ‍♂️. It's a &quot;powered&quot; mixer, so it has to be plugged into an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mixer created a buzzing sound, so I had to also buy a cheap ground loop isolator (I think it was [this][2] model). I've read that these can theoretically affect audio quality, which bothers me, but at least I couldn't personally notice a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a slightly cheaper, unpowered mixer: the [Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer][3] . This is the one I bought first, but I ultimately had to return it. It decreases the volume by a lot, which was too much for my setup. However, I didn't having any buzzing issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mixers use RCA, so I also needed a couple 3.55mm → RCA adapters. These are super cheap and I already had several on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;*Interestingly, the amount of buzzing seemed to depend on how heavily I was using my computer's GPU. For casual web browsing, there was almost no buzzing. Old or lightweight video games caused slight buzzing, and intensive games had tons of buzzing.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WKDH46/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00102ZN40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31399" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="3a00d174-f8f5-404d-b2f5-2d4e7ff75793" CreationDate="2018-08-02T21:01:08.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9559" RevisionGUID="bd5f6c82-0bb4-4674-95d5-12c26ba090ca" CreationDate="2018-08-02T21:01:48.693" UserId="1951" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I ended up buying the [Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer][1]. It cost more than twice what I wanted to spend, but I couldn't find anything cheaper that supported stereo, so ‍♂️. It's a &quot;powered&quot; mixer, so it has to be plugged into an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mixer created a buzzing sound, so I had to also buy a cheap ground loop isolator (I think it was [this][2] model). I've read that these can theoretically affect audio quality, which bothers me, but at least I couldn't personally notice a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a slightly cheaper, unpowered mixer: the [Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer][3] . This is actually what I bought first, but I had to return it. It decreases the volume by a lot, which was too much for my setup. However, I didn't having any buzzing issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mixers use RCA, so I also needed a couple 3.55mm → RCA adapters. These are super cheap and I already had several on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;*Interestingly, the amount of buzzing seemed to depend on how heavily I was using my computer's GPU. For casual web browsing, there was almost no buzzing. Old or lightweight video games caused slight buzzing, and intensive games had tons of buzzing.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WKDH46/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00102ZN40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31401" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="0068c744-3d54-46d1-94ab-e5a45818bd85" CreationDate="2018-08-02T22:00:07.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9561" RevisionGUID="0d76538d-aa46-473a-8bf8-f01418b94278" CreationDate="2018-08-03T04:27:48.657" UserId="962" Text="I have two work laptops. One came with a docking  station &amp; external monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m using two different keyboard &amp; mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use same keyboard &amp; mouse &amp; switch across one laptop to another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not supposed to install any third party softwares.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding about kvm switch is to connect multiple computers &amp; share common monitor, keyboard , mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this scenario, 2 laptops has its own screens." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31406" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9561" RevisionGUID="0d76538d-aa46-473a-8bf8-f01418b94278" CreationDate="2018-08-03T04:27:48.657" UserId="962" Text="How to share common key board &amp; mouse across laptops?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31407" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9561" RevisionGUID="0d76538d-aa46-473a-8bf8-f01418b94278" CreationDate="2018-08-03T04:27:48.657" UserId="962" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31411" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9563" RevisionGUID="f25aa325-295f-4545-b5ba-dd1bfaa57552" CreationDate="2018-08-03T08:46:53.203" UserId="1873" Text="[Mikrotik Hex][1] or any of their products based on RouterOS (most routers)&#xA;&#xA;https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:IPv6/DHCP_Client&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9564" RevisionGUID="780ded54-636b-43a3-bf7d-28fac25a887c" CreationDate="2018-08-03T12:45:51.930" UserId="9613" Text="I have checked a few questions here regarding the GPU and bought the 1080Ti.&#xD;&#xA;Now I am trying to figure out the rest of the configuration and it should be below 1000$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that `i5-8600K` sounds like a good option and I would like to go with 8th generation. However, now I am stuck with choosing the appropriate motherboard and cooling units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my country I have available:&#xD;&#xA;`GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS GAMING 3 REV.1.0` and `ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING` which i have available for `230$` and `280$` respectively. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also considering `Gigabyte Z370 HD3` which is a cheaper option `150$`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note, that I do not need anything shiny (RGB LEDs etc.) but single PCI x16 is required. On top of this, I will need a suggestion for cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it would be great if someone could tell me which boards play nicely with Linux (Ubuntu).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions are more than welcome, even which brand seems better to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31413" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9564" RevisionGUID="780ded54-636b-43a3-bf7d-28fac25a887c" CreationDate="2018-08-03T12:45:51.930" UserId="9613" Text="Deep Learning Hardware (PC/Ubuntu)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31414" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9564" RevisionGUID="780ded54-636b-43a3-bf7d-28fac25a887c" CreationDate="2018-08-03T12:45:51.930" UserId="9613" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31415" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1251" RevisionGUID="0c73d153-63d7-4253-b642-649d2d8370ea" CreationDate="2018-08-03T13:01:17.543" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9559" RevisionGUID="8a3ec9bc-5c29-43ca-9b2a-7485593219ea" CreationDate="2018-08-03T13:39:45.120" UserId="1951" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I ended up buying the [Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer][1]. It cost more than twice what I wanted to spend, but I couldn't find anything cheaper that supported stereo, so ‍♂️. It's a &quot;powered&quot; mixer, so it has to be plugged into an outlet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This mixer created a buzzing sound, so I had to also buy a cheap ground loop isolator (I think it was [this][2] model). I've read that these can theoretically affect audio quality, which bothers me, but at least I couldn't personally notice a difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a slightly cheaper, unpowered mixer: the [Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer][3] . This is actually what I bought first, but I had to return it. It decreases the volume by a lot, which was too much for my setup. However, I didn't have any buzzing issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these mixers use RCA, so I also needed a couple 3.55mm ↔ RCA adapters. These are super cheap and I already had several on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;*Interestingly, the amount of buzzing seemed to depend on how heavily I was using my computer's GPU. For casual web browsing, there was almost no buzzing. Old or lightweight video games caused slight buzzing, and intensive games had tons of buzzing.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WKDH46/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00102ZN40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9566" RevisionGUID="014a1e90-c7df-4d31-b6d0-640a4ea7c840" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:06:23.347" UserId="9615" Text="My laptop is the ASUS F556UA-UH71, and its motherboard number is the X556UAK. It has 8GB of RAM soldered on the motherboard itself with the following specs: DDR4 2400MHz, timing: 15-15-15-35. Mind you, even though it's rated at 2400MHz, it runs at 2133MHz due to the processor, which doesn't support frequencies higher than that (i7-7500U). There is an expansion slot and I wanted to expand it to 16GB, not only because of the work that I do and some light gaming, but also to experience the performance benefits of a dual channel setup. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I did some research to find compatible RAM sticks. If I go with a 2400MHz stick, the best timing that I could find is 16-16-16-39. So my best bet is to go with a 2133MHz, and the best timing on those are 15-15-15-36. Actually, there aren't too many options available for me, the only one that I can choose is the G.SKILL Ripjaws F4-2133C15S-8GRS, a Corsair ValueSelect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, will I run into problems by installing this stick, due the different, but similar timing? Will the difference in frequencies cause problems, even though the 7500U doesn't support higher frequencies than 2133MHz and the one on the motherboard is rated at 2400MHz?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31421" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9566" RevisionGUID="014a1e90-c7df-4d31-b6d0-640a4ea7c840" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:06:23.347" UserId="9615" Text="Pairing RAM stick with one that is soldered on the motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31422" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9566" RevisionGUID="014a1e90-c7df-4d31-b6d0-640a4ea7c840" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:06:23.347" UserId="9615" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31423" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9567" RevisionGUID="23e2818a-682f-4a1e-9d33-eb17d038de4b" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:42:31.413" UserId="4039" Text="Quick answer, no. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Choosing the `2133MHz` won't hurt your system, since the soldered one is &quot;under-frequencied&quot; by the CPU capabilities and having another `2400MHz` stick to &quot;choke&quot; is not a really good idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're right on choosing the `CL15` one, 'cause is more important try matching the timing than the frequency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last thing, to be honest i would call `15-15-15-35` **identical** to `15-15-15-36` rather than just *similar*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31429" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="918abc1d-be0a-4332-9c86-85311fde1776" CreationDate="2018-08-04T02:01:01.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31430" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="7932c942-f990-4a82-afe7-2d9d226c3abe" CreationDate="2018-08-04T03:01:00.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31433" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="78fb5b6e-54ac-44c2-905f-e81518f12fa5" CreationDate="2018-08-04T05:01:56.377" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31434" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9568" RevisionGUID="f919390a-7474-4ca8-8d46-ad32a7ae4178" CreationDate="2018-08-04T08:41:32.713" UserId="9595" Text="The monitor must have those characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FullHD (1920 × 1080 pixel, 1080p)&#xD;&#xA; - Flicker-free/Flicker safe&#xD;&#xA; - 75-120 Hz&#xD;&#xA; - Response time 1-5ms&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Freesync&#xD;&#xA; - IPS&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller than 20&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Built in speakers are not required*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I couldn't find anything with this characteristics on the internet, even though I've searched everywhere." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31435" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9568" RevisionGUID="f919390a-7474-4ca8-8d46-ad32a7ae4178" CreationDate="2018-08-04T08:41:32.713" UserId="9595" Text="Budget monitor smaller than 20&quot; for gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31436" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9568" RevisionGUID="f919390a-7474-4ca8-8d46-ad32a7ae4178" CreationDate="2018-08-04T08:41:32.713" UserId="9595" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31437" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9569" RevisionGUID="ee07adc0-e480-4c0a-ac2e-82cfcac6cc9f" CreationDate="2018-08-04T09:00:49.100" UserId="6047" Text="**You should go with the Gigabyte Z370 HD3, since it is the cheapest option meeting your requirements.** However, if your configuration requires a lot of RAM which you didn't mention, the most expensive option (ASUS configuration) offers 4 slots of RAM. According to [the intel spec sheet for the i5-8600k][1], the maximum supported memory per slot is 32 gb. It's up to you whether you feel you will need more than 32gb of RAM in the future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's worth mentioning the GIGABYTE option has 2 m.2 SATA slots meaning you could potentially have two m.2 sata SSDs (The Samsung 970 Evo's are an affordable high performance option.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Other recommendations**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I took the liberty of checking your location on your Stack exchange profile which states you are from Montenegro, and a cursory google search tells me that you are not officially a part of the EU. This makes recommending you specific hardware not subject to additional shipping or tax import costs very difficult, however; [here is an exhaustive list from pc part picker sorted by price that meets or exceeds your stated requirements][2]. You can cross-check the prices you find there with your local purveyors. The site will also let you double check your builds for compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/products/126685/Intel-Core-i5-8600K-Processor-9M-Cache-up-to-4_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=30&amp;X=0,100000&amp;J=0&amp;K=1,10&amp;E=1,4&amp;N=4,16&amp;T=2048,65536&amp;L=4&amp;h=1,8&amp;sort=price&amp;xcx=0&amp;a=1,5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9571" RevisionGUID="6e330bf9-5c41-4fcd-96ff-bc0d8022ab01" CreationDate="2018-08-04T10:39:24.713" UserId="9620" Text="I don't know if this is a weird question, but here it goes: I would like a laptop without a GUI. I want to exclusively use the command line. I want to install Linux in it. The laptop should be small, 14&quot; tops. It should have an excellent battery life, and good wifi. Hopefully, the hardware will be supported natively, without binary blobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Asus Transformer TF101. I installed Archlinux in it. It was a permanent &quot;work in progress&quot;. But it died on me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31442" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9571" RevisionGUID="6e330bf9-5c41-4fcd-96ff-bc0d8022ab01" CreationDate="2018-08-04T10:39:24.713" UserId="9620" Text="Small laptop for command line use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31443" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9571" RevisionGUID="6e330bf9-5c41-4fcd-96ff-bc0d8022ab01" CreationDate="2018-08-04T10:39:24.713" UserId="9620" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31444" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9563" RevisionGUID="55d67647-54be-4c24-9412-1bb6df980c12" CreationDate="2018-08-04T10:43:33.850" UserId="1873" Comment="added 208 characters in body" Text="[Mikrotik Hex][1] or any of their products based on RouterOS (most routers)&#xA;&#xA;https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:IPv6/DHCP_Client - look at the `pool-name` and `pool-prerix-length` parameters.&#xA;&#xA;As for your bonus requirements:&#xA;&#xA; - 1 Gbit might need something more expensive&#xA; - LAN - present&#xA; - CLAT - I have no idea&#xA; - DHCP cache - present&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31445" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9571" RevisionGUID="006a8631-0b2c-470c-b7ec-db120b755996" CreationDate="2018-08-04T12:08:32.860" UserId="9620" Comment="adding some reasons why I want this specific setup" Text="I don't know if this is a weird question, but here it goes: I would like a laptop without a GUI. I want to exclusively use the command line. I want to install Linux in it. The laptop should be small, 14&quot; tops. It should have an excellent battery life, and good wifi. Hopefully, the hardware will be supported natively, without binary blobs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a Asus Transformer TF101. I installed Archlinux in it. It was a permanent &quot;work in progress&quot;. I really liked the small form factor, and the battery lasted forever (given the fact that I had 2 batteries when using the keyboard attachment). But it died on me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not a masochist. I read Brian Lunduke's article. But I feel the GUI takes focus away. I want to use it mainly to write code (using VIM) while commuting. Listening to music (with cmus or mpv). Email (with alpine or mutt) and text based web browsing (with lynx and/or w3m). I want something that doesn't weight too much, while at it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31450" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9312" RevisionGUID="9c19446f-a710-42b8-9c83-f9231fc09672" CreationDate="2018-08-04T17:00:28.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9568" RevisionGUID="53b95a09-1ce1-4f57-9d93-f1a7d077f489" CreationDate="2018-08-04T17:54:33.597" UserId="9595" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="The monitor must have those characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FullHD (1920 × 1080 pixel, 1080p)&#xD;&#xA; - Flicker-free/Flicker safe&#xD;&#xA; - 75-120 Hz&#xD;&#xA; - Response time 1-5ms&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Freesync&#xD;&#xA; - IPS&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller than 20&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Built in speakers are not required*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I couldn't find anything like that on the internet, even though I've searched everywhere. Can anyone recomment me any monitor with this characteristics?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31455" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9568" RevisionGUID="c2ea220a-bdb0-416c-b4a0-0b0f2235897d" CreationDate="2018-08-04T18:10:01.680" UserId="9595" Comment="edited body" Text="The monitor must have those characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FullHD (1920 × 1080 pixel, 1080p)&#xD;&#xA; - Flicker-free/Flicker safe&#xD;&#xA; - 75-120 Hz&#xD;&#xA; - Response time 1-5ms&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Freesync&#xD;&#xA; - IPS&#xD;&#xA; - Smaller than 20&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Built in speakers are not required*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I couldn't find anything like that on the internet, even though I've searched everywhere. Can anyone recommend me any monitor with this characteristics?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9573" RevisionGUID="a734c6b6-21ad-4b63-a419-17ce3dc034e8" CreationDate="2018-08-04T18:54:35.593" UserId="9624" Text="Which in-ear wired earphones would you recommend as the best compromise between maximum noise isolation (passive, not active noise cancellation), good bass and compatibility with android mic/volume controls for max 150 euros?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9573" RevisionGUID="a734c6b6-21ad-4b63-a419-17ce3dc034e8" CreationDate="2018-08-04T18:54:35.593" UserId="9624" Text="Noise isolating earphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9573" RevisionGUID="a734c6b6-21ad-4b63-a419-17ce3dc034e8" CreationDate="2018-08-04T18:54:35.593" UserId="9624" Text="&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31463" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="f5a0ba23-4e4f-488c-afe9-6a7361511ed4" CreationDate="2018-08-04T23:01:16.947" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="b5121504-135c-4ee7-afc5-e8e04597d768" CreationDate="2018-08-05T01:44:16.477" UserId="9394" Text="I am using [EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply][1] for my [current build][2], and my load seems to be 470W. For my computer monitors, I am using [Lenovo LT2452P][3]. So, I need one power cord for PC and one for the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I am trying to determine between 18/16/14 AWG which power supplies do I need for my PC and my monitor.&#xD;&#xA; 2. I already have some power cords, but how could I determine what AWG do they have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tg48WX&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd021682" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31465" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="b5121504-135c-4ee7-afc5-e8e04597d768" CreationDate="2018-08-05T01:44:16.477" UserId="9394" Text="Recommended AWG for my power cord" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31466" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="b5121504-135c-4ee7-afc5-e8e04597d768" CreationDate="2018-08-05T01:44:16.477" UserId="9394" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9577" RevisionGUID="af70b588-ec1b-43fd-b7e5-53362ba4d180" CreationDate="2018-08-05T02:28:09.080" UserId="6047" Text="If you're going to spending all your time in the command line, I don't imagine you're going to be needing all that much processing power, or even a dedicated graphics card. I looked up your TF101 tablet and it looks like you were happy with the performance you got out of a 1 gb of RAM and a tablet processor. To maximize battery life, I've recommended 2 4-cell Li-ion battery equipped laptops and a 6 cell li-ion battery. All laptops have 4 gb of RAM. Each laptop is an 11.6&quot; laptop, about an inch and a half larger than your old tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Laptop TravelMate $161.99 + $2.99 shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![TMB117-MP-C2G3][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the cheapest laptop that meets and exceeds the performance of you old system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.09 lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - 32 gb Flash storage&#xD;&#xA; - Celeron N3060&#xD;&#xA; - 4 cell Li-ion battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Spin 1 $189.95][3]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![SP111-31-C2W3][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Get this if you want something that feels more like the tablet you used to have. This is one of the 360 laptops that can turn into a tablet but also has a keyboard. Slightly heavier than option 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.31 lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - 32 gb Flash storage&#xD;&#xA; - Celeron N3350&#xD;&#xA; - 4 cell Li-ion battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HP Laptop EliteBook Revolve 810 G2 $377.01 + 3.99 shipping][5]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Revolve 810 G2][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is like option 2, but it's monitor can spin 360° on its axis in two directions. This option has a lot more storage and a significantly better CPU. Consider this option if you have the money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3.08 lb&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - i5-4300 U&#xD;&#xA; - 6 cell Li-ion battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000X-00JK4R&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4CAh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8878S6051&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFb4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834264570&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMjUf.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9579" RevisionGUID="dfb6eeb1-29ef-414b-901d-1c44ac721acb" CreationDate="2018-08-05T10:20:48.283" UserId="9625" Text="Top 4 Best Music Production and coding Laptops Reviews&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.	Apple MacBook Pro – Best Mac for Music Production&#xD;&#xA;Price: $1899&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Wondering what laptop to tag along for your live concert recording,&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; on-road show or studio time?&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; The MacBook Pro sports fitting hardware and software support for&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; musicians and music producers regardless of skill level. It comes with&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Apple’s Garageband music production software for basic recording and&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; production out of the box. But professionals will appreciate that&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; almost every decent, more engaging suites are supported here.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; If you are a Logic diehard, though, you have no option but to use an&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Apple computer since Logic does not support Windows OS. And if you are&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; asking for the absolute best music production laptop around, then&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; pricing may not be your concern.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; If you can drop as much on a MacBook Pro, you can expect impressive&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; speed (with a Quad-core 2.9 GHz, Intel i7 processor), snappy&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; performance (16 GB of DDR3 RAM), and fast SSD (512 GB) for a sizable&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; chunk of top-tier DAW suites, samples, and so on.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; The 15-inch display pops videos and images thanks to the 2800 by 1800&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; resolution Retina Display but could be unsatisfactory if you prefer&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; larger rooms to work on. For that, you get two USB 3.0 ports to&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; connect to other audio and video interfaces, Bluetooth 4.0 for&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; wireless connection, and Thunderbolt ports (only usable with other&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Apple peripherals, unfortunately).&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; If you choose to record on the fly or are doing a live concert, the&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; MacBook Pro is decidedly durable, lightweight at just 3 lbs, reliable&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; with that 10-hour battery life, and the sharp display won’t shudder&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; under bright lights, either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[SEE ON AMAZON][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.	Eluktronics P650RP6 Premium&#xD;&#xA;Price: $1,249.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; For less than you’d have to cough up for a MacBook Pro, you get this&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Made in America beast puffing a horde of multitasking goodies with up&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; to 64 GB of DDR4 RAM. From Sonar to Ableton to Studio One and all the&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; way down to Point Tools and Audacity, this thing will reap through&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; your heavy-handed, resource-hogging, pro DAW programs with shocking&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; ease and flow.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; That’s crazy good. There are four variants to choose from but each&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; hosts a 6th Gen Intel Quad core i7 CPU. Prices vary with RAM and&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Storage upgrades. The base entrant affords you 256 GB SSD storage and&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; 16 GB of DDR4 RAM for around $1,100—a good bargain compared to the&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; harshier price tag on the MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; The flagship version beefs up storage (and RAM up to 64 GB) to a&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; primary 512 GB SSD and additional 1TB HDD storage.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; With all that RAM and processing power, it also swanks a truckload of&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; connectivity options if you are planning to plug several MIDI&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; controllers, as well as both audio and video outputs. It beats every&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; other laptop here—includes two USB 3.1 Type C, three USB 3.0, 1 HDMI&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; (with HDCP), and two mini Display ports.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; So, while it is a 15.6-inch (Full-HD) portable beast, it could easily&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; and optimally serve as a workstation replacement, any day. It might&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; seem overkill for a music recording computer, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[SEE ON AMAZON][4]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.	Asus ROG Strix (GL753VD) -Best for Gaming and Music Production&#xD;&#xA;Price: $1,035&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Choose this workhorse of a gaming laptop to crank up&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; professional-quality audio and video at half the price of the MacBook&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Pro.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; It hosts similar CPU specs as the MacBook Pro, and even ousts the&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; latter with snappier DDR4 RAM and 1TB HDD storage. That might seem&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; slower than the SSD option winded into the Apple computer, but Asus’&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; HDD is a 7200 RPM beast that’s great for producers who want more room&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; to record and run DAW suites without a need for external&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; reinforcements.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Still, you get 17.3 inches of Full-HD (60 fps) display estate that’s&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; reinforced with 4GB (DDR5) NVIDIA GeForce GTX graphics processing&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; power. Not better than the MacBook Pro but ultra-resourceful if you&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; use graphics-hogging DAW.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; It is also surprisingly lightweight for the size at 6.6 lbs and packs&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; a –hour power plant around the bottom. So, if you get to work out much&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; this could be an affordable yet uncompromising music production laptop&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; dream of.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; That weight might lead you to prefer it as a studio-time machine. And&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; it aptly fits that role with its array of connectivity ports including&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; two USB 3.0, one USB 2.0, one HDMI, one LAN, and a couple more ports.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; This Asus is a top contender for best Windows music production laptop,&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; if not the laptop to beat overall, especially if you think the MacBook&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Pro is overpriced.&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; &#xD;&#xA;    &gt; Better yet, check out the bustling Lenovo Y700 if you prioritize an&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; immersive sound experience with all the top-performing (and priced)&#xD;&#xA;    &gt; hardware components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**SEE ON AMAZON**][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. Acer Aspire V17 Nitro&#xD;&#xA;Price: $1,319.67&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This Black Edition Aspire is a serious machine. Similar to the Asus ROG Strixx above, it sports roomy 17.3-inch Ultra-HD (3840 by 2160) display for all the true-cinematic format videos and special effects you conspire to throw at it. That’s the kind of 4K display the Dell XPS 9560-7001SLZ PUS boasts—although a touch-screen on the Dell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acer also shoved 512 GB of the faster SSD and additional 1TB of HDD storage into it. It will handle all that in tandem and fluidly as it ships with 16 GB of DDR4 Dual Channel RAM inbuilt (to run with the 6th-gen Intel Quad-core i7 CPU—you can actually turbo boost it to 3.5 GHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other honorable mention must be the DustDefender system. The heavy-handedness of professional-grade DAW suites make it too hot for many laptops to breathe, so it good to have a system built into a laptop to cool it down and blow the dust off the working innards. That’s to like. If it makes any difference, you get Windows 10 (64-bit Home) out of the box. Expect a 7-hour battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[SEE ON AMAZON][8]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOmz5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/2viJMso&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PQlK.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/2M21XvL&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAymE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://amzn.to/2AEbXHj&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eH4d6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://amzn.to/2MgMwNg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31481" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="3bb36abf-2b26-4ac4-b880-f2cf652d49ec" CreationDate="2018-08-05T19:00:55.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31484" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="838f58c4-f184-4500-99a9-64d4f49a2dd6" CreationDate="2018-08-06T00:02:54.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9583" RevisionGUID="8796a78d-d5bd-454e-ba5a-7ca58ff93189" CreationDate="2018-08-06T01:53:29.313" UserId="9630" Text="(Yes, I’ve seen [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/9296/9630) which is very similar, however my specs include the word gigabit. Also the only current answer to that question was written by someone that didn’t understand the meaning of “dual-WAN” and made an incorrect assumption about its meaning.)&#xA;&#xA;I’m looking for a gigabit multi-WAN (or dual-WAN) Router for use in an automatic failover application.    I have a problematic cable connection which fails several times a month.  With my current level of home automation I can simply no longer accept that failure.&#xA;&#xA;The cable modem is already a separate device (i.e. not an all-in-one combo device).  I have also already purchased a Netgear LB2120 4G cellular modem, which was supposed to also handle the failover routing (oddly the cable company blocks the device as a failover router, I can use it as a modem behind another router tho).  LB2120 also has no means of external configuration.  At the moment switching internet connections is as manual as walking in and swapping plugs, which doesn’t work if I’m not home.&#xA;&#xA;I’ve also already tried purchasing, and recently returned to vendor, [TP-Link TL-ER5120 v3](https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-4910_TL-ER5120.html) which should have solved the problem, but doesn’t because it has an odd firmware bug which seems to block ports on the local router.  (Specifically in testing port 3389–I suspect many others).  There is a bizarre long email chain with TP-link support where the initial entry level support associate validates my claim “in the lab”.  She passes the case to “senior level support” who consistently argues there is no problem found, and continues “coaching” me on setup. There are several really odd things that make me suspect about the “senior” techs understanding of his job, he insists: Static IP (not DHCP reservation) must be used, he also insists the client end (not the server end) be assigned the static IP, and finally he admits he is not using 5120 v3 but an older 6120 model that is “very similar” to mine.  He consistently tells me I don’t understand what to do, that I’m not following his instructions (even though I tried it his way and sent screenshots proving that I did).  There is also now [another user in the TP-link public forum same complaint](https://community.tp-link.com/en/business/forum/topic/150043?page=1)&#xA;&#xA;Requirements include: &#xA;&#xA;- Gigabit router, Multi or dual &#xA;WAN with load balance/failover configurable options.&#xA;&#xA;- DHCP server, with reservations&#xA;&#xA;- Port Forwarding (i.e. opening an external port pointing to a specific internal IP and port).&#xA;&#xA;- No WiFi required (I already have a wired dual band AP in a centrally located position that provides excellent WiFi coverage).&#xA;&#xA;- not Enterprise level pricing (I can find this router many times over for $900+, however hardly any under $200, and only about one under $100).&#xA;&#xA;- ~50 clients connected between a mix of wired and WiFi (but any gigabit router should handle that).&#xA;&#xA;- configureable remote access (I shouldn’t  actually need, but the fact the the Netgear LB-2120 has none exposes the potential need)&#xA;&#xA;So to further reiterate, this router must have the ability to handle at least two internet (WAN) connections, one primary and one failover.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31486" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9583" RevisionGUID="8796a78d-d5bd-454e-ba5a-7ca58ff93189" CreationDate="2018-08-06T01:53:29.313" UserId="9630" Text="Multi-WAN gigabit Router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31487" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9583" RevisionGUID="8796a78d-d5bd-454e-ba5a-7ca58ff93189" CreationDate="2018-08-06T01:53:29.313" UserId="9630" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31488" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9583" RevisionGUID="03e9115b-e539-440d-a284-e488de213260" CreationDate="2018-08-06T01:59:39.887" UserId="9630" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="(Yes, I’ve seen [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/9296/9630) which is very similar, however my specs include the word gigabit. Also the only current answer to that question was written by someone that didn’t understand the meaning of “dual-WAN” and made an incorrect assumption about its meaning.)&#xA;&#xA;I’m looking for a gigabit multi-WAN (or dual-WAN) Router for use in an automatic failover application.    I have a problematic cable connection which fails several times a month.  With my current level of home automation I can simply no longer accept that failure.&#xA;&#xA;The cable modem is already a separate device (i.e. not an all-in-one combo device).  I have also already purchased a Netgear LB2120 4G cellular modem, which was supposed to also handle the failover routing (oddly the cable company blocks the device as a failover router, I can use it as a modem behind another router tho).  LB2120 also has no means of external configuration.  At the moment switching internet connections is as manual as walking in and swapping plugs, which doesn’t work if I’m not home.&#xA;&#xA;I’ve also already tried purchasing, and recently returned to vendor, [TP-Link TL-ER5120 v3](https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-4910_TL-ER5120.html) which should have solved the problem, but doesn’t because it has an odd firmware bug which seems to block ports on the local network.  (Specifically in testing port 3389–I suspect many others).  There is a bizarre long email chain with TP-link support where the initial entry level support associate validates my claim “in the lab”.  She passes the case to “senior level support” who consistently argues there is no problem found, and continues “coaching” me on setup. There are several really odd things that make me suspect about the “senior” techs understanding of his job, he insists: Static IP (not DHCP reservation) must be used, he also insists the client end (not the server end) be assigned the static IP, and finally he admits he is not using 5120 v3 but an older 6120 model that is “very similar” to mine.  He consistently tells me I don’t understand what to do, that I’m not following his instructions (even though I tried it his way and sent screenshots proving that I did).  There is also now [another user in the TP-link public forum same complaint](https://community.tp-link.com/en/business/forum/topic/150043?page=1)&#xA;&#xA;Requirements include: &#xA;&#xA;- Gigabit router, Multi or dual &#xA;WAN with load balance/failover configurable options.&#xA;&#xA;- DHCP server, with reservations&#xA;&#xA;- Port Forwarding (i.e. opening an external port pointing to a specific internal IP and port).&#xA;&#xA;- No WiFi required (I already have a wired dual band AP in a centrally located position that provides excellent WiFi coverage).&#xA;&#xA;- not Enterprise level pricing (I can find this router many times over for $900+, however hardly any under $200, and only about one under $100).&#xA;&#xA;- ~50 clients connected between a mix of wired and WiFi (but any gigabit router should handle that).&#xA;&#xA;- configureable remote access (I shouldn’t  actually need, but the fact the the Netgear LB-2120 has none exposes the potential need)&#xA;&#xA;So to further reiterate, this router must have the ability to handle at least two internet (WAN) connections, one primary and one failover.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9584" RevisionGUID="8321194d-a951-4ed9-b9aa-fa8b4d0c03fa" CreationDate="2018-08-06T07:41:56.250" UserId="9631" Text="I have EnerGenie EG-PM2 and was very fast to install and use on Linux/Ubuntu, steps here:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Install sispmctl&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    wget https://phoenixnap.dl.sourceforge.net/project/sispmctl/sispmctl/sispmctl-4.0/sispmctl-4.0.tar.gz&#xD;&#xA;    tar xzvf sispmctl-4.0.tar.gz&#xD;&#xA;    cd sispmctl-4.0/&#xD;&#xA;    sudo apt install libusb-dev&#xD;&#xA;    ./configure&#xD;&#xA;    make&#xD;&#xA;    sudo make install&#xD;&#xA;    sispmctl&#xD;&#xA;    cp ./src/.libs/libsispmctl.so.0 /usr/local/lib&#xD;&#xA;    sispmctl&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The outlet has 4 ports, example to operate off and on port 1 you do the following commands&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Turn off and on port 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    sudo sispmctl   -f 1&#xD;&#xA;    #Accessing Gembird #0 USB device 053&#xD;&#xA;    #Switched outlet 1 off&#xD;&#xA;    sudo sispmctl   -o 1&#xD;&#xA;    #Accessing Gembird #0 USB device 053&#xD;&#xA;    #Switched outlet 1 on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="145" RevisionGUID="8f003d8c-b9e4-499f-8bbe-c78144884476" CreationDate="2018-08-06T08:43:20.013" UserId="45" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="You need a relay, probably driven by USB. Examples: [Yocto-PowerRelay](http://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/usb-actuators/yocto-powerrelay), [Cleware USB switch](http://www.cleware-shop.de/USB-Switch-EN), [EnerGenie EG-PM2](http://www.amazon.de/EnerGenie-EG-PM2-programmierbare-Steckdosenleiste-Schnittstelle/dp/B00ANXI3L2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_2/280-7383433-5316334?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0SEWTK87HHT4DSTBWG70&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) (found by a web search, I'm not endorsing these particular products or vendors).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lots of people use a Raspberry Pi or similar boards to control mains-powered appliances, so you'll find lots of discussions around this topic in their communities. You can build something cheaper if you do some of it yourself, but don't do that unless you're comfortable working with mains power — you could fry your hardware or worse, fry yourself. If you already have a RPi or Arduino in your system, you can get specialized peripherals for a bit cheaper, e.g. [SainSmart 8-Kanäle RelaisModul](http://www.amazon.de/SainSmart-8-Kan%C3%A4le-RelaisModul-Arduino-Module/dp/B005WR734M/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1H7QSZKT2SDGDGDD0XKK&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_) or [PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) for Arduino (and see [this](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/235/controlling-mains-230v-supply-upto-5-10-amps-using-arudino) thread on Arduino SE), [Pi-Face Digital](http://shop.openlx.org.uk/) for RPi (and see [these](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/1633/how-can-one-control-ac-power-220v-with-a-raspberry-pi) [threads](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/604/can-i-switch-mains-devices-on-off) on Raspberry Pi.SE), etc. There's quite a bit of material around on [using the PowerSwitch Tail](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747) with either Arduino or [Raspberry Pi](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-13-power-control).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever product you use, take care not to exceed its maximum amperage.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31495" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="11e69aa1-0f04-47ee-9496-092e8d2013a0" CreationDate="2018-08-06T17:00:39.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9586" RevisionGUID="a981c84a-1dba-454a-974c-8be9741543bc" CreationDate="2018-08-06T23:01:32.307" UserId="5440" Text="What you need is a product from one of the enterprise-level (or enterprise-like...) manufacturers. All of them have this in one form or the other, and they are usually not expansive at all (though most of them lack wireless, it is not required by you.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ubiquiti EdgeRouter** is probably the most known one of this genre. Then there's (as pointed out by @Jan Dorniak in the comments) **MicroTik**, and also **UTT** and other smaller brands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you need to be aware that all of these devices - given their enterprise-like status - while they are highly customizable and configurable, it is usually not as simple as the (dumb...) Asus or TP-Link and the likes, so there might be some learning curve to get to know them and be able to configure everything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Ubiquiti** has the perfectly capable [**EdgeRouter X**][1] for as low as $55. But if you are willing to pay up you can get the much more powerful (specs, but not necessarily needed) [**Edgerouter 8 Port Router**][2] for about $300. And in the middle there's the [**EdgeRouter POE**][3] if you can benefit of some PoE ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a help article (and see links in the bottom) on how to configure the failover on Ubiquiti: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205145990&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, as mentioned, you can also look at UTT, for instance the [**UTT ER518**][4] for just $54.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=computer09e0-20&amp;linkId=0573db4c206abff723b7d36a37786f61&amp;language=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-8-Edgerouter-Router/dp/B00IA5M2AS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=computer09e0-20&amp;linkId=97eda8d09819f17d67d33794058cdbde&amp;language=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ERPOE-5-EdgeRouter-Adapter/dp/B00E77N3WE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=computer09e0-20&amp;linkId=6df51af77dc56285f6534e13257f9be7&amp;language=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/UTT-ER518-Balance-Supports-Housing/dp/B00O1W8P3C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ref=ast_p_pc_bs&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=computer09e0-20&amp;linkId=c27f94de3d2487538f59740f5578a760&amp;language=en_US" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9587" RevisionGUID="503e0866-49fe-445b-b787-0ef457066e3f" CreationDate="2018-08-07T09:45:17.070" UserId="9633" Text="I have a corsair vengeance 8gig DDR3 RAM in one slot. I want to upgrade it with same speed and capacity but with other brand. Does they work fine? Or I have to use the same brand? TIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31499" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9587" RevisionGUID="503e0866-49fe-445b-b787-0ef457066e3f" CreationDate="2018-08-07T09:45:17.070" UserId="9633" Text="Can I use two brands of RAM?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31500" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9587" RevisionGUID="503e0866-49fe-445b-b787-0ef457066e3f" CreationDate="2018-08-07T09:45:17.070" UserId="9633" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9591" RevisionGUID="057aafb1-4f28-4fcf-b230-5baf9a0e1ae4" CreationDate="2018-08-07T12:16:39.463" UserId="4896" Text="Most likely yes....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - if the specs for the RAM are the same - size, speed &amp; timings&#xD;&#xA; - if the motherboard supports both sticks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have problems, you may be able to mitigate it by tweaking BIOS settings, but many motherboards will compensate for minor discrepancies (ie. lowering timings). You should be fine to trial it - you are not going to break anything. In fact, it will most likely work initially, but you will find the issue will be stability under load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you are unlikely to be able to get support if you have any issues for OEMs - they will likely insist you do not mix &amp; match, and will probably recommend Matched Pairs (sets of sticks that have been tested to work well together)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31511" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9183" RevisionGUID="c35b4502-4ee2-4736-bf73-a1576da521e6" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:03:28.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31512" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9592" RevisionGUID="b70b724b-ded3-4ce5-b229-4198ff360596" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:54:53.750" UserId="2092" Text="I am looking for a durable, corded mouse. I have used the Logitech M500 corded mouse in the past, and I really like the model. Problem is, the thing breaks reliably after less than a year, one way or another. Sometimes the buttons don't work anymore, sometimes that tracking doesn't work or the cable breaks. It's really annoying. I am ordering them at least once a year. My mother also uses this mouse and has the same experience with this model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need all those fancy features, I just don't want to buy so many mice anymore. Just a sturdy and reliable mouse. Maximum price is 50 bucks, unless you can convince me otherwise =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We only use them at home, for gaming and other tasks. It would be cool if the size would be comparable to the M500 (not those small laptop mice)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31513" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9592" RevisionGUID="b70b724b-ded3-4ce5-b229-4198ff360596" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:54:53.750" UserId="2092" Text="Durable corded mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31514" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9592" RevisionGUID="b70b724b-ded3-4ce5-b229-4198ff360596" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:54:53.750" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31515" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="d54fbc70-28b3-451e-a977-74ef6d58a207" CreationDate="2018-08-07T16:01:00.820" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31520" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="36de80b3-5faf-478d-a04f-9ac6b5d27fda" CreationDate="2018-08-07T20:01:12.133" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9597" RevisionGUID="33feda69-fab9-4629-9d1c-f5320f4448b6" CreationDate="2018-08-07T21:51:13.390" UserId="9636" Text="A KVM switch would be what you need. They are meant to control two or more computers from a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor. The keyboard and mouse are on one side of it. The monitor is on the other. That being said, you should be able to use a KVM switch without connecting anything to the monitor ports. This would allow each computer to operate with its own screen but same keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to be clear, with a KVM switch, you can only control one computer at a time. You will press a sequence of keys to switch computers. If you want to control them both at the same time with the same keystrokes, look into a USB splitter instead." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31527" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="59219019-28c5-4fc8-8174-e4ac1b9b6e05" CreationDate="2018-08-08T01:01:18.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9598" RevisionGUID="c8946000-7f30-4e38-b231-495910e9e886" CreationDate="2018-08-08T13:37:59.293" UserId="9641" Text="I create parts using MasterCam software (https://www.mastercam.com/en-us/). Essentially this is CAD/CAM software and I would like to buy a better printer than the one I have. I dont need a plotter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum:&#xD;&#xA; - 11x17&#xD;&#xA; - Laser&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to print higher detail&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred:&#xD;&#xA;Color&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31529" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9598" RevisionGUID="c8946000-7f30-4e38-b231-495910e9e886" CreationDate="2018-08-08T13:37:59.293" UserId="9641" Text="Printer Recommendation for CAD drawings" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31530" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9598" RevisionGUID="c8946000-7f30-4e38-b231-495910e9e886" CreationDate="2018-08-08T13:37:59.293" UserId="9641" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9599" RevisionGUID="442fda2e-88b1-4ff9-b9e0-a18f992f8c83" CreationDate="2018-08-08T15:55:11.283" UserId="4896" Text="A software KVM might be useful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Mouse Without Borders][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Input Director][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Share Mouse][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You share one mouse &amp; keyboard but not screens and in most cases you can move from machine to machine without even a keypress (the latter two options definitely support this).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.keyboard-and-mouse-sharing.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.inputdirector.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=35460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31536" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9598" RevisionGUID="6aacf2fb-5141-4853-b29c-ad43dc6b1969" CreationDate="2018-08-08T18:22:39.747" UserId="9641" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I create parts using MasterCam software (https://www.mastercam.com/en-us/). Essentially this is CAD/CAM software and I would like to buy a better printer than the one I have. I dont need a plotter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum:&#xD;&#xA; - 11x17&#xD;&#xA; - Laser&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to print higher detail&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred:&#xD;&#xA;Color&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is less than $1,000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9602" RevisionGUID="1234e4c8-f746-4458-9f47-6f0d49d620e5" CreationDate="2018-08-08T20:49:31.633" UserId="6047" Text="It appears to be very difficult to find a Laser printer under $1000 that comes in as large a size as A3 (11.7 x 16.5 in). I was only able to find a Refurbished/Used - Like New system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HP Color LaserJet Professional CP5225dn $500.00 + $54.59 shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![CP5225dn][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 600 DPI&#xD;&#xA; - Rate: 20 Pages per minute (ppm)&#xD;&#xA; - Technology: Laser (non-LED)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your current printer already prints as 600 DPI or higher, you probably shouldn't upgrade unless you find that this printer's PPM is faster than your current printer and worth the upgrade. I would still suggest [purchasing a brand new one ($1660)][3] if you have the money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*It appears the link is automatically redirecting to the full price page.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B004433XCQ/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all&amp;qid=1533760939&amp;sr=1-1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxeXU.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-LaserJet-Professional-CP5225dn-CE712A/dp/B004433XCQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31538" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="52e70bf9-5523-4714-8560-9811384afeb8" CreationDate="2018-08-08T23:01:52.863" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9603" RevisionGUID="271926ca-e9a8-42a8-b378-620c1036a1f9" CreationDate="2018-08-09T08:34:44.830" UserId="9644" Text="I am a novice when it comes to hardware world. If this is not the appropriate site, I request the moderators to redirect me to the correct one and close this question :).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My objectives pertaining to the laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only ONE os - RHEL(enterprise or developer, I haven't decided). Dell laptops come loaded with Ubuntu and are 'RHEL certified'. I didn't understand what they meant, also, I want only RHEL, to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish to have a cost-effective solution - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Configuration to suit development needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 16-32 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 2. 1+TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; 3. i7/AMD equivalent&#xD;&#xA; 4. Motherboard that can handle all the above&#xD;&#xA; 5. Possibility to add RAM, in the future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31542" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9603" RevisionGUID="271926ca-e9a8-42a8-b378-620c1036a1f9" CreationDate="2018-08-09T08:34:44.830" UserId="9644" Text="RHEL developer laptop with customized hardware - how to proceed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31543" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9603" RevisionGUID="271926ca-e9a8-42a8-b378-620c1036a1f9" CreationDate="2018-08-09T08:34:44.830" UserId="9644" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31544" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9603" RevisionGUID="86727744-47dd-46ad-9706-1eb704bb70fc" CreationDate="2018-08-09T09:15:41.983" UserId="9644" Comment="Reformed query regarding the provider" Text="I am a novice when it comes to hardware world. If this is not the appropriate site, I request the moderators to redirect me to the correct one and close this question :).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My objectives pertaining to the laptop:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only ONE os - RHEL(enterprise or developer, I haven't decided). Dell laptops come loaded with Ubuntu and are 'RHEL certified'. I didn't understand what they meant, also, I want only RHEL, to begin with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would save a 'considerable' amount - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself? If there isn't much difference, I would prefer to buy from the provider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Configuration to suit development needs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 16-32 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; 2. 1+TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; 3. i7/AMD equivalent&#xD;&#xA; 4. Motherboard that can handle all the above&#xD;&#xA; 5. Possibility to add RAM, in the future&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9604" RevisionGUID="3b8ad2f6-9248-4e84-9743-22e975615141" CreationDate="2018-08-09T14:18:04.033" UserId="57" Text="&quot;RHEL certified&quot; means that the hardware has been tested by Dell and will work as expected with RHEL. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have a laptop, then it's going to be easier in the long run to purchase this from a vendor. Dell provides (sorry for the US links and prices) an [XPS 13 Developer Edition](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/sc/laptops/xps-laptops?~ck=bt&amp;appliedRefinements=7692) that you can upgrade to support most of your requirements. The highest end version can have the hard drive upgraded to 1 or 2TB. The others can only be upgraded to 512GB. The highest amount of RAM that any of them support is 16GB. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The total cost for the high end XPS with 16 GB of RAM and a 1TB drive is $2,350 plus whatever taxes and shipping comes out to be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The downside of this is that you probably won't be able to add any components in the future since it's a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, I have a year old version of the XPS 13 Developer Edition running Ubuntu. I'm happy with it. It handles my development work without any issues. It came with Ubuntu 16.04 and upgraded to 18.04 without any problems a couple weeks ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to expand your components and resources in the future, you'll want to build something but I suspect it's not going to be a laptop. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9605" RevisionGUID="727ae4b7-a36c-46f9-9799-6699f9131a58" CreationDate="2018-08-09T14:27:12.103" UserId="6047" Text="It seems you were correct about laptops being more expensive in Sweden. As far as I could surmise it appears it will be cheaper to order a laptop from the USA and pay for international shipping. I seems that Sweden doesn't charge any import fees or VAT as far as I can tell. You also ask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What would save a 'considerable' amount - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a third option, buy hardware that already comes with an OS (most system do) and then install RHEL yourself. The procedure is identical even if it came without an OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL62M 11,944.84 kr + 306.50 kr international shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![GL62M][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comes right out of the box with 32 gb of RAM. Unfortunately, this laptop is not capable of an upgrade up to 64 gb of RAM, despite the i7-7700 HQ being capable supporting 64 GB of ram over 2 slots. Also if you're wondering about the powerful discrete graphics card, laptop manufacturers catering to this level of RAM capacity usually end up being gaming capable laptop purveyors where this is standard. This just so happened to be the cheapest laptop I could find. Perhaps if you use your Red Hat linux system for video rendering this may be more useful. MSI doesn't sell laptops directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB 2400 DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB Samsung 960 EVO NVMe + 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 2 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo ThinkPad P51 Workstation 20,580.26 kr + 395.77 kr international shipping][3]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![P51 High Performance Mobile Workstation][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This option explicitly supports 64 GB of RAM. Most mobile systems don't really support 64 GB RAM upgrades because there isn't really a market for gratuitously expansive memory in laptops, as most people would purchase a non-mobile desktop/server system for the average user case scenario (hosting, servers, etc.). If you are thinking about 64 GB of RAM in the future, I would advise explicitly buying a 64 GB supported laptop out of the box as it is likely most laptops will only have 2 slots for memory meaning an upgrade will be a full replacement, as you won't be able to add to your existing memory infrastructure. Effectively, you will need to buy 2 32 GB memory sticks which will cost you in the ballpark of 1793.59 - 3587.18 kr. If you try and skimp on RAM costs, it is also likely you will buy poor latency (Higher CAS latency values) RAM, which will have inferior timings and therefore more delay. If you want to purchase a [configurable system from the manufacturer here's a link.][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 64 GB 2400 DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA Quadro M1200M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA0S6XD1194&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxQoA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB6JU9092&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nar6e.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P51/p/22TP2WPWP51" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9606" RevisionGUID="5b8810ef-e802-4f7b-bc6b-5b2cdd62027c" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:01:21.303" UserId="9647" Text="I am looking for an Android phone or a small tablet to use -- without a waterproof case -- as a navigation device on a bicycle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main requirement is that it must be able to withstand hours of pouring rain, and the touchscreen must remain operable when wet. It should also be possible to recharge the device while using it in the rain and without putting it at risk (through exposed charging ports etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ability to use the touchscreen while wearing gloves would be a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for recommendations based on real-world experience rather than marketing materials (a lot of manufacturers advertise IP ratings, MIL-STD-810G self-certification etc but it's hard to tell what any of that means in real-world use)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31548" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9606" RevisionGUID="5b8810ef-e802-4f7b-bc6b-5b2cdd62027c" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:01:21.303" UserId="9647" Text="Android phone to use in wet conditions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31549" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9606" RevisionGUID="5b8810ef-e802-4f7b-bc6b-5b2cdd62027c" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:01:21.303" UserId="9647" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;waterproof&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31550" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9606" RevisionGUID="992746ec-41eb-437d-bb25-177d2f179c5f" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:10:41.983" UserId="9647" Comment="edited title" Text="Android device to use in wet conditions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31551" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9606" RevisionGUID="992746ec-41eb-437d-bb25-177d2f179c5f" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:10:41.983" UserId="9647" Comment="edited title" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;waterproof&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9607" RevisionGUID="078ee5a7-fd96-4900-90bc-9ddb009c522f" CreationDate="2018-08-09T17:07:10.603" UserId="9649" Text="Does anyone know if there exist some device marked as &quot;X&quot; on this image? I could not find anything. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Transfer range should be at least 10m. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also &quot;Some Device&quot; is just piece of hardware, so there can't be installed anything on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RnWLx.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31553" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9607" RevisionGUID="078ee5a7-fd96-4900-90bc-9ddb009c522f" CreationDate="2018-08-09T17:07:10.603" UserId="9649" Text="USB transmitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31554" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9607" RevisionGUID="078ee5a7-fd96-4900-90bc-9ddb009c522f" CreationDate="2018-08-09T17:07:10.603" UserId="9649" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9608" RevisionGUID="5624b899-13b2-4cb0-828b-b6ae620e6973" CreationDate="2018-08-09T19:08:47.947" UserId="9650" Text="Thank you for future responses to this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a web developer. I work corporate during the day and freelance during the night utilizing mostly front-end technologies/design tools and some back-end technologies. I'm trying to transition into Macs for my freelance so that I can prototype with better software like Sketch and I would like to start developing in Swift. I also am Microsoft Certified at work, so I will probably need to run VMs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to purchase a Mac to do this. However, I need to make sure it will cover my stack/tools. I'm willing to spend a bit more than my budget if it really would make the difference into the future but would prefer options within my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am on a budget, looking to spend less than $1600 on hardware if possible. I already have a phenomenal design monitor and the peripherals to match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read that Macbook Pros and iMacs are great for what I am trying to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to buy refurb as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you again for any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;John M." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9608" RevisionGUID="5624b899-13b2-4cb0-828b-b6ae620e6973" CreationDate="2018-08-09T19:08:47.947" UserId="9650" Text="Developing/Designing on Macs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9608" RevisionGUID="5624b899-13b2-4cb0-828b-b6ae620e6973" CreationDate="2018-08-09T19:08:47.947" UserId="9650" Text="&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9609" RevisionGUID="37b51a47-72a1-4b54-9a72-182c062c3fc8" CreationDate="2018-08-09T22:42:33.197" UserId="9654" Text="Long time MacBookPro (on my 3rd) user and asp.net web developer here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A Macbook Pro will blow your budget out of the water, and you will have storage issues. It is nice to have the portable option though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any new 21.5 iMac with a dedicated graphics card should cover all bases and fit your budget. Also consider running BootCamp instead of, or along side VMs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BootCamp will give you native speeds and I've run VisualStudio very happily there, the downside is no direct sharing between OSX and Win. You do get extra overhead with VMs that may impact performance, though it's been a while since I've used one. I just BootCamp these days. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;VMWare allows you to use the bootcamp partition as your VM, it was a little clunky swapping between VM and boot camp though due to Win Authentication issues (different hardware detected). This is when I gave up and exclusively used BootCamp. I'm not sure if other VM providers have the same feature or issues associated with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One more tip if using BootCamp look at [Paragon - NTFS for Mac][1]. It allows you to write to your BootCamp partition, or any other NTFS drive and is well worth the price. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.paragon-software.com/home/ntfs-mac/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9610" RevisionGUID="17df467d-f389-4b62-b109-9ca851e8d375" CreationDate="2018-08-09T23:00:49.327" UserId="7346" Text="I don't know if there are any devices that can be charged while in the pouring rain or wet at all for that matter. But if you just need GPS signal while biking then I suggest looking at the Xperia XZ compact line up. My wife and I have had Xperia phones and they do great even with full water submersion. Just turn on glove mode and they won't interact with water too much. And without a sim card inserted you should be able to use the GPS for ages before the battery dies you'll just have to use google maps offline maps feature or only set up routes when you are on wifi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31563" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="508e710d-d213-491d-aec7-6ce6aa2d288d" CreationDate="2018-08-10T00:01:48.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31564" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="40d10b08-5a7f-48c4-aab4-4b47aedf7f16" CreationDate="2018-08-10T01:00:59.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31566" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9612" RevisionGUID="b6d4b11c-7092-48c5-a795-93b7da8925e9" CreationDate="2018-08-10T11:16:10.320" UserId="9656" Text="I am not looking for a solution for capturing live data (TCP and broadcast/multicast over UDP) with little latency impact (e.g. &lt; 50 nanosecond) with timestamping in nano or in some stable clock cycle (e.g. some stable oscillator) given:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;no additional switch (as no private switch is allowed in the datacenter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;no additional server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any hardware that can stay inside an 1U server but not outside (optical splitter is okay)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;only capturing the traffic in one physical optical line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried (onload_)tcpdump and the latency impact is at microsecond level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31567" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9612" RevisionGUID="b6d4b11c-7092-48c5-a795-93b7da8925e9" CreationDate="2018-08-10T11:16:10.320" UserId="9656" Text="Low Latency Packet Capture" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31568" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9612" RevisionGUID="b6d4b11c-7092-48c5-a795-93b7da8925e9" CreationDate="2018-08-10T11:16:10.320" UserId="9656" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9612" RevisionGUID="6ca6e5e6-6a08-48fd-a00d-fbe3c8394f7a" CreationDate="2018-08-10T13:38:35.843" UserId="9656" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a solution for capturing live data (TCP and broadcast/multicast over UDP) with little latency impact (e.g. &lt; 50 nanosecond) with timestamping in nano or in some stable clock cycle (e.g. some stable oscillator) given:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. no additional switch (as no private switch is allowed in the datacenter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. no additional server&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. any hardware that can stay inside an 1U server but not outside (optical splitter is okay)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. only capturing the traffic in one physical optical line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried (onload_)tcpdump and the latency impact is at microsecond level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9614" RevisionGUID="2c387193-996a-40d2-b7a5-c0a50362ce95" CreationDate="2018-08-10T16:29:48.880" UserId="9658" Text="Recently I found a 'Win SBS Prem 2003 1-2CPU 5-CAL' server. It's fully operational and appears to have adequate hardware (64 GB ram, 2 Intel Xeon CPU's, 1Tb hard drive). It runs Windows Small Business Server 2003. My question is if I could run Windows 10 on it or upgrade to a more functional software. I thought of booting from an external drive, but there really isn't any information online which tells me how to do that. My concern is that the hardware might not be compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31575" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9614" RevisionGUID="2c387193-996a-40d2-b7a5-c0a50362ce95" CreationDate="2018-08-10T16:29:48.880" UserId="9658" Text="Can I use a 2003 server as a desktop computer? (See desc.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31576" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9614" RevisionGUID="2c387193-996a-40d2-b7a5-c0a50362ce95" CreationDate="2018-08-10T16:29:48.880" UserId="9658" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9615" RevisionGUID="c0611024-ab96-40fc-9078-42e93f4421e0" CreationDate="2018-08-10T18:21:14.043" UserId="9661" Text="The only way to find out if the operating system you want will work on that hardware is to try it out. I'm guessing that the reason you're asking this question in the first place is because you want to save money on hardware and this server you found (used, maybe?) looks too good to be true. As with most things in life, it probably is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main issues that I can think of with this kind of hardware are power draw, noise, and graphics. Even if it seems like you're getting a great deal, you might end up spending more money in electrical bills over the course of the time you own the server than you would if you just bought a new, energy-efficient desktop. Additionally, the cooling for server-oriented machines is designed to get maximum airflow and dissipate the most heat, without any regards for noise level. If you use the machine near where you're working with it (as with most desktop deployments), you probably won't like how loud it will be. Finally, if you think about how most server-class machines are used, graphics is not too important. Most servers run headless (without a monitor) and so do no graphics whatsoever. If you can stand the other two annoyances, the lack of modern-ish graphics might be a deal-breaker if you intend to run a graphics-intensive operating system like Windows. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9605" RevisionGUID="2193ffaf-1c4f-4d05-a9ac-8b44a9225430" CreationDate="2018-08-10T19:44:41.317" UserId="6047" Comment="Precision series" Text="It seems you were correct about laptops being more expensive in Sweden. As far as I could surmise it appears it will be cheaper to order a laptop from the USA and pay for international shipping. I seems that Sweden doesn't charge any import fees or VAT as far as I can tell. You also ask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What would save a 'considerable' amount - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a third option, buy hardware that already comes with an OS (most system do) and then install RHEL yourself. The procedure is identical even if it came without an OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL62M 11,944.84 kr + 306.50 kr international shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![GL62M][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comes right out of the box with 32 gb of RAM. Unfortunately, this laptop is not capable of an upgrade up to 64 gb of RAM, despite the i7-7700 HQ being capable supporting 64 GB of ram over 2 slots. Also if you're wondering about the powerful discrete graphics card, laptop manufacturers catering to this level of RAM capacity usually end up being gaming capable laptop purveyors where this is standard. This just so happened to be the cheapest laptop I could find. Perhaps if you use your Red Hat linux system for video rendering this may be more useful. MSI doesn't sell laptops directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB 2400 DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB Samsung 960 EVO NVMe + 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 2 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo ThinkPad P51 Workstation 20,580.26 kr + 395.77 kr international shipping][3]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![P51 High Performance Mobile Workstation][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This option explicitly supports 64 GB of RAM. Most mobile systems don't really support 64 GB RAM upgrades because there isn't really a market for gratuitously expansive memory in laptops, as most people would purchase a non-mobile desktop/server system for the average user case scenario (hosting, servers, etc.). If you are thinking about 64 GB of RAM in the future, I would advise explicitly buying a 64 GB supported laptop out of the box as it is likely most laptops will only have 2 slots for memory meaning an upgrade will be a full replacement, as you won't be able to add to your existing memory infrastructure. Effectively, you will need to buy 2 32 GB memory sticks which will cost you in the ballpark of 1793.59 - 3587.18 kr. If you try and skimp on RAM costs, it is also likely you will buy poor latency (Higher CAS latency values) RAM, which will have inferior timings and therefore more delay. If you want to purchase a [configurable system from the manufacturer here's a link.][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 64 GB 2400 DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA Quadro M1200M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Dell precision series response (link was too long to fit in a comment). [This is the cheapest (purchasing directly from manufacturer) precision series laptop configuration that supports 64 GB of RAM][6]. It will cost you 38,076.75 Kr, and isn't a very good deal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA0S6XD1194&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxQoA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB6JU9092&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nar6e.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P51/p/22TP2WPWP51&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/workstations-isv-certified-dell/precision-7720/spd/precision-17-7720-laptop/xctop772017_us_sapp_4?selectionState=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" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9607" RevisionGUID="cf4b082c-750d-4ec8-b7b6-2cba0d31d804" CreationDate="2018-08-11T09:28:32.497" UserId="9649" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Does anyone know if there exist some device marked as &quot;X&quot; on this image? I could not find anything. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Transfer range should be at least 10m. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also &quot;Some Device&quot; is just piece of hardware, so there can't be installed anything on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3KS2.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Updated the image so it is more clear. Need something like wireless USB. So if I connect &quot;Some Device&quot; to &quot;X&quot; it will be recognized by Notebook." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9607" RevisionGUID="8a95ec2a-fa23-41c6-a69b-01792f6efd4f" CreationDate="2018-08-11T09:35:29.553" UserId="9649" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="Does anyone know if there exist some device marked as &quot;X&quot; on this image? I could not find anything. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Transfer range should be at least 10m. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Also &quot;Some Device&quot; is just piece of hardware, so there can't be installed anything on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3KS2.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Updated the image so it is more clear. Need something like wireless USB. So if I connect &quot;Some Device&quot; to &quot;X&quot; it will be recognized by Notebook. &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure, but maybe it is possible to programme the &quot;Y&quot; as a virtual USB. I mean to catch the wifi data and transfer it to virtual USB, so that the application on Notebook can communicate with &quot;Some Device&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9617" RevisionGUID="a4d2e037-92f1-4b3a-9529-e402e801b53d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T11:16:54.710" UserId="9664" Text="I have just had my third desktop PC in four years fried by an apparent power surge during a thunderstorm.  We rent an ancient house in Western North Carolina (read: &quot;awful Duke Energy electrical grid and wiring that was installed shortly after Ben Franklin went kite-flying&quot;), so I can't fix any of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Four years ago, there was a (probably) lightning-generated surge that took out a (turned off) desktop PC, my beloved gaming rig, one monitor, the ISP's modem, my Linksys router and an electric blanket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yesterday, another lightning-generated surge took out my (turned off but plugged in) gaming rig and, weirdly, whatever gizmo there is in the ISP's Arris router that handles ethernet connections - its wifi still works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither of these surges damaged anything else and they didn't knock out the power or blow a breaker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a surge suppressor that can protect electronics from this kind of thing?  The fellow from the ISP that replaced the modem four years ago told me that nothing can contain a surge like that and that the only sure way to protect my gear is to unplug it during electrical storms. Is he right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9617" RevisionGUID="a4d2e037-92f1-4b3a-9529-e402e801b53d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T11:16:54.710" UserId="9664" Text="I really need to find a surge suppressor that works!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9617" RevisionGUID="a4d2e037-92f1-4b3a-9529-e402e801b53d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T11:16:54.710" UserId="9664" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9618" RevisionGUID="6221653f-1f26-4185-a99d-2ad76b27386d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T12:49:15.613" UserId="1410" Text="I don't mind cobbling one together with a Raspberry Pi &amp; accessories, if that is possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, I am looking for a cheap, portable RFID reader with 2 to 3 metre range, Preferable passive tags, but I will take active if it somehow brings the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheap means sub $50, preferably chepaer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9618" RevisionGUID="6221653f-1f26-4185-a99d-2ad76b27386d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T12:49:15.613" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap portable RFID reader with 2 to 3 metre range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9618" RevisionGUID="6221653f-1f26-4185-a99d-2ad76b27386d" CreationDate="2018-08-11T12:49:15.613" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9619" RevisionGUID="b1dee928-7763-46a7-8feb-6c72f3f6fb01" CreationDate="2018-08-11T17:54:51.050" UserId="9028" Text="Generally, you need something like [this][1]. It is a UPS power regulator. Just make sure the PC is plugged into one of the UPS outlets and not just the surge protector outlets. &#xA;&#xA;Also, send the phone and/or cable through it.  Cable in particular is a fat copper cable that can carry a large surge if struck by lightning. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102238&amp;ignorebbr=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31595" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="6f9ea246-6327-4705-b760-0dbbb5a4c1c5" CreationDate="2018-08-11T22:00:52.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31596" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9448" RevisionGUID="261f80b1-c4f9-4394-ae20-d3fb7ead2f6b" CreationDate="2018-08-11T23:00:44.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="8a0be742-b976-4f96-a90f-09cf40b50e81" CreationDate="2018-08-12T01:46:11.963" UserId="9666" Text=" - - -  .  . .  Hello, I need your help with this problem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I need a card for less than $40, not more, good for gaming with low ping/delay/latency.*&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; `  My Lan card is called Intel® 82579, 1 x Gigabit LAN Controller(s). This is an in-built card, i.e. it is NOT external. It is not detachable and I cannot remove it from my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  *It gives me **problems, for example**:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** I have invited my provider's personnel to check my PC, and they said&#xD;&#xA;    I should replace my Internet card because it was damaged in a&#xD;&#xA;    thunderstorm. Now it works worse, and I need to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2.** Also, my ping grew from 31 to 81, and this is critical for my FPS&#xD;&#xA;    shooter. Also, there is high ping when I have video-conferences, and&#xD;&#xA;    the other person interrupts me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Can you help me with a **low-ping/latency** card?* &#xD;&#xA;My motherboard has these expansion slots:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8) &#xD;&#xA; 2. 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, &#xD;&#xA;   black)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 x PCIe x1&#xD;&#xA; 4. 2 x PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     What is a good model for under 40 dollars? [**This is my card ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3**][1]: &#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; .. P.S.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Have a good day!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Screenshot from my Windows 10x64 PC.][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaaCD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="8a0be742-b976-4f96-a90f-09cf40b50e81" CreationDate="2018-08-12T01:46:11.963" UserId="9666" Text="Lan/Ethernet card for ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 for gaming with LOW ping/delay for under $40" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="8a0be742-b976-4f96-a90f-09cf40b50e81" CreationDate="2018-08-12T01:46:11.963" UserId="9666" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31607" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9336" RevisionGUID="09412281-3952-4c8c-bcef-ad00959524af" CreationDate="2018-08-12T19:01:22.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31609" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9554" RevisionGUID="e812d8fa-4705-4c99-8f46-9c0f83f13445" CreationDate="2018-08-12T23:16:22.477" UserId="9599" Comment="Add list of fully compatible scanners" Text="The Free Software Foundation has made a list of GNU/Linux compatible hardwares, freely editable by anyone with an account, which can be found here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then after going to that website go to H-node's search (H-node is the directory of FOSS hardware):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://h-node.org/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And go to scanners category:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of August 2018, the [list of scanners with full compatibility with free software](https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en/1/1/undef/A-Full/undef/undef/compatibility/undef) has 6 models with commercialization dates between 2002 and 2011." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31610" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9554" RevisionGUID="e812d8fa-4705-4c99-8f46-9c0f83f13445" CreationDate="2018-08-12T23:16:22.477" Comment="Proposed by 9599 approved by 9595 edit id of 729" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31611" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="d184dc60-8ebe-4142-b6fd-18e6a592223c" CreationDate="2018-08-13T03:01:41.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9623" RevisionGUID="85a89afe-9238-45ba-812e-2b4ab2485040" CreationDate="2018-08-13T06:56:28.983" UserId="9323" Text="I am looking for a Wi-Fi adapter with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 802.11ac, 2.4 and 5GHz bands&#xD;&#xA;- USB interface, possibly USB 2.0 to avoid the interference associated with USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably a small dongle with a standard SMA connector to attach a larger antenna&#xD;&#xA;- *critical* in-tree Linux driver&#xD;&#xA;- For bonus points, find one with 802.11r support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The background is I want a robust antenna for a robot I am building from a Raspberry Pi / Odroid C2 type device, but I do not want to mess around with modules and tainting the kernel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a plug and play experience with the drivers built into the kernel. I will run the latest Ubuntu for ARMv8 and will happily use mainline kernels if a newer one is needed. As long as if I re-image the device, I do not need to compile and insert modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have looked through the Linux source code and tried to cross-reference with the internet to identify a possible device. I could not find any.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9623" RevisionGUID="85a89afe-9238-45ba-812e-2b4ab2485040" CreationDate="2018-08-13T06:56:28.983" UserId="9323" Text="USB 802.11ac adapter with in-tree Linux driver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9623" RevisionGUID="85a89afe-9238-45ba-812e-2b4ab2485040" CreationDate="2018-08-13T06:56:28.983" UserId="9323" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31616" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="9a6995ae-1e69-4dd7-a1f2-89902b41b84d" CreationDate="2018-08-13T08:00:55.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31617" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="c52b8f52-465d-441b-8592-029303ced6dc" CreationDate="2018-08-13T09:01:22.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9624" RevisionGUID="dfe99289-b090-4033-9b2f-3a6340819876" CreationDate="2018-08-13T14:03:33.920" UserId="6047" Text="While Dan Sp. suggestion will definitely work, I feel that spending $200 on a UPS is a bit overkill for your applications. Unlike my recommendation, however, it will keep your computer running for a few minutes if the *power is interrupted* which would allow time for your computer to sleep (most UPS systems come with software to do this for you automatically). I would still like to recommend a significantly cheaper alternative that can protect against Ethernet/co-axial/telephone as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In addition, UPS systems in general, may not protect you via Ethernet,&#xD;&#xA;&gt; coaxial, or telephone lines, and **not doing so may void your&#xD;&#xA;&gt; equipment protection policy should you choose to exercise it in many cases.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector (P11VNT3) $25.99 MSRP: $49.99][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![P11VNT3][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This power surge protector comes with a [Lifetime : $100,000 equipment protection policy][3]. It is also featured on [Lifehacker][4] as one of the best surge protectors, and voted one by users as of the best on [Co-op the Inventory][5]. If you want to make use of the EPP, you should **register the product by returning to APC the warranty card provided with the product within 10 days of purchase**. In addition, **Any claim under the Equipment Protection Policy must be made within 10 days of the date of alleged damage to the connected equipment**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3020 Joule surge protection&#xD;&#xA; - 11 Total Power Surge Protector Outlets, 6 Outlets Block-Spaced for Larger Adapters&#xD;&#xA; - Telephone, Network (Cat-5 Ethernet Port) and Co-Axial Protection against Power Surges along Data Lines&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Eligibility for coverage under the Equipment Protection Policy:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You must register the product by returning to APC the warranty card provided with the product within 10 days of purchase. All information must be filled in, and you should retain a copy for your records. The warranty card must clearly identify the types of electronic equipment that will be plugged into the APC product for which protection under this policy is claimed. All connected equipment must be UL or CSA approved.&#xD;&#xA;The APC product must be plugged into properly wired and grounded outlets; no extension cords, adapters, other ground wires, or electrical connections may be used, with the sole exception of other standard APC 120 volt products. The installation must not include power protection products made by any manufacturer other than APC. The installation must comply with all applicable electrical and safety codes set forth pursuant to the National Electrical Code (NEC).&#xD;&#xA;Any claim under the Equipment Protection Policy must be made within 10 days of the date of alleged damage to the connected equipment.&#xD;&#xA;The Equipment Protection Policy covers only standard APC 120V products used in the 50 U.S. states, Canada, Bermuda* and/or Puerto Rico*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/11-Outlet-Protection-SurgeArrest-Performance-P11VNT3/dp/B0012YFXSW?tag=kinjacoop-20&amp;ascsubtag=3fb29677fbdd47f69b361b578056b8a8efc34a7a&amp;rawdata=%5Br%7C(direct)%5Bt%7Clink%5Bp%7C1794260054%5Ba%7CB0012YFXSW%5Bau%7C5727177402741770316%5Bb%7Ctheinventory&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzOWm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.apc.com/us/en/tools/epp/#anchor&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://lifehacker.com/five-best-surge-protectors-1444106854&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://co-op.theinventory.com/these-are-your-favorite-home-theater-surge-protectors-1794260054" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31625" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9625" RevisionGUID="7088051e-239d-4d92-8bc0-7f5ed8ff5d95" CreationDate="2018-08-13T18:59:09.007" UserId="9675" Text="I use the following Color Ink Jet printer for printing my color and B&amp;W 11&quot; x 17&quot; CAD drawings: HP DESKJET 1220C PARALLEL USB PRINTER&#xD;&#xA;While this is not a laser printer its prints are of good quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is currently one for sale on eBay for $125 plus shipping.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DESKJET-1220C-PARALLEL-USB-PRINTER-USED/123299758165?epid=1800332047&amp;hash=item1cb53d0055:g:SOoAAOSwNDFba1kR &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards, Bob&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31626" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="221c8f1c-a4d1-4f49-8bf8-00f50e3034bf" CreationDate="2018-08-14T00:00:41.843" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="f8157888-2eef-44eb-82f6-1bc6da8cf883" CreationDate="2018-08-14T05:47:10.760" UserId="6047" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="**I need a card for less than $40, not more, good for gaming with low ping/delay/latency.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current LAN card is a Intel® 82579, 1 x Gigabit LAN Controller(s). This is an in-built card, i.e. it is NOT external. It is not detachable and I cannot remove it from my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My [motherboard][1] has these expansion slots:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8) &#xD;&#xA; 2. 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, &#xD;&#xA;   black)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 x PCIe x1&#xD;&#xA; 4. 2 x PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good model for under 40 dollars?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;The reason I want to buy another LAN card is because my current card gives me **problems, for example**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** I have invited my provider's personnel to check my PC, and they said&#xD;&#xA;    I should replace my Internet card because it was damaged in a&#xD;&#xA;    thunderstorm. Now it works worse, and I need to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2.** Also, my ping grew from 31 to 81, and this is critical for my FPS&#xD;&#xA;    shooter. Also, there is high ping when I have video-conferences, and&#xD;&#xA;    the other person interrupts me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31628" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="f8157888-2eef-44eb-82f6-1bc6da8cf883" CreationDate="2018-08-14T05:47:10.760" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by -1 edit id of 733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31629" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="de525d7e-8a32-435a-afae-26ccc1cf4e8f" CreationDate="2018-08-14T05:47:10.760" UserId="9666" Comment="Clarity, focus" Text="**I need a card for less than $40, not more, good for gaming with low ping/delay/latency.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current LAN card is Intel® 82579, 1 x Gigabit LAN Controller(s). This is an in-built card, i.e. it is NOT external. It is not detachable and I cannot remove it from my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My [motherboard][1] has these expansion slots:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8) &#xD;&#xA; 2. 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, &#xD;&#xA;   black)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 x PCIe x1&#xD;&#xA; 4. 2 x PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good model for under 40 dollars?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;The reason I want to buy another LAN card is because my current card gives me **problems, for example**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** I have invited my provider's personnel to check my PC, and they said&#xD;&#xA;    I should replace my Internet card because it was damaged in a&#xD;&#xA;    thunderstorm. Now it works worse, and I need to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2.** Also, my ping grew from 31 to 81, and this is critical for my FPS&#xD;&#xA;    shooter. Also, there is high ping when I have video-conferences, and&#xD;&#xA;    the other person interrupts me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9620" RevisionGUID="9a91cd1f-838a-474c-99fb-0078d173f5f9" CreationDate="2018-08-14T06:00:51.683" UserId="9666" Comment="Added a picture with my Lan card's specifications." Text="**I need a card for less than $40, not more, good for gaming with low ping/delay/latency.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current LAN card is Intel® 82579, 1 x Gigabit LAN Controller(s). This is an in-built card, i.e. it is NOT external. It is not detachable and I cannot remove it from my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My [motherboard][1] has these expansion slots:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8) &#xD;&#xA; 2. 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, &#xD;&#xA;   black)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 2 x PCIe x1&#xD;&#xA; 4. 2 x PCI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good model for under 40 dollars?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;The reason I want to buy another LAN card is because my current card gives me **problems, for example**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **1.** I have invited my provider's personnel to check my PC, and they said&#xD;&#xA;    I should replace my Internet card because it was damaged in a&#xD;&#xA;    thunderstorm. Now it works worse, and I need to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; **2.** Also, my ping grew from 31 to 81, and this is critical for my FPS&#xD;&#xA;    shooter. Also, there is high ping when I have video-conferences, and&#xD;&#xA;    the other person interrupts me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![The card is in the screenshot below][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaaCD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31631" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="2e40e2d0-a69a-4906-ac85-dc4231eb4d6e" CreationDate="2018-08-14T08:02:08.960" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31639" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="85463b09-e550-4e3e-adac-8ad5c28d66e9" CreationDate="2018-08-14T13:02:03.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31641" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="ef61bc01-7279-4b81-bf9a-6e8ad1e3ff7f" CreationDate="2018-08-14T16:01:52.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31642" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="e84c0a01-f1f1-4390-981d-b82d0cb8f223" CreationDate="2018-08-14T18:01:11.087" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9627" RevisionGUID="9d782b0a-6b52-4893-a8b1-7065176611fe" CreationDate="2018-08-14T20:16:12.497" UserId="9679" Text="I need to buy Windows laptop for programming. I have some options, One laptop has i7-7700HQ, and other has i7-8550U.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In past, I thought, that U-Series processors are not for workstations and CPU-bound tasks. I wanted to buy some HQ laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today I have seen some videos and benchmarks, like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8550U-vs-Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ/m320742vsm211019&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.notebookcheck.net/8550U-vs-7700HQ_9208_8400.247596.0.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxlHioejSEw&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I cannot understand, why these processes are almost equals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you give me some advices, which processor should I buy and why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31645" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9627" RevisionGUID="9d782b0a-6b52-4893-a8b1-7065176611fe" CreationDate="2018-08-14T20:16:12.497" UserId="9679" Text="Which laptop with processor i7-7700HQ or i7-8550U I should buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31646" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9627" RevisionGUID="9d782b0a-6b52-4893-a8b1-7065176611fe" CreationDate="2018-08-14T20:16:12.497" UserId="9679" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31656" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="a65541b1-8a05-45dd-ab30-b2279b6f2ec2" CreationDate="2018-08-15T10:02:13.903" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31657" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="85500001-ad0d-4aa5-9622-5c630155f104" CreationDate="2018-08-15T15:02:07.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31658" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="1eecef51-2e7b-4b8d-8e5f-d52aa0c04ad9" CreationDate="2018-08-15T16:00:35.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31659" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="9c26ab6a-8d29-4369-83fb-a95068430739" CreationDate="2018-08-15T17:01:11.860" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31660" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="2490e2fe-a3e2-4bf2-87ff-ac64b426d590" CreationDate="2018-08-16T03:02:51.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31665" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9630" RevisionGUID="ef62107d-1e1d-4b23-a3cf-929487c9063f" CreationDate="2018-08-16T07:24:35.350" UserId="9683" Text="Lightning is [a hard problem][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd love to say there's a slick little product you can &quot;Amazon and it's done&quot;, but not all problems can be solved that way (plus, other answerers are already doing that.)  That said, I promise there'll be some products mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**On the high side of the transformer:** Transformers are pretty good surge suppressors, so suppressing surges on the &quot;high&quot; side of the transformer helps  a lot.  Power distribution lines (the big 2400V lines that are the top row) have a couple defenses.  First, a **&quot;top wire&quot;** [(OHGW)][2] that is set **above** the 3 bare conductors - its job is to catch the lightning bolt instead of the conductors.  Second, a [**lightning arrestor *device***][3] connecting each conductor to ground.  It has an engineered gap - wide enough to stop 2400V from arcing to ground, but still allow lightning to leap to ground. These can wear out/burn up from strikes, and leave too-wide a gap to be effective. *You can't do anything about this stuff*.  But you can walk your neighborhood distribution lines (on the high side of your transformer) and see if Duke has installed them, and shout a lot if they haven't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Make sure your house's grounding/earthing is tip-top**. I realize you're a renter and *can't do this*. But [correct, modern grounding][4] is an absolute requirement for some surge suppression systems to work, and certainly to qualify for any &quot;power strip warranties&quot;.  Surge suppressors *need* ground as a place to dump the surges!  All electricity wants to return to *source*, and natural electricity's (lightning) source is *the earth*. If you can't make your house's grounding tip-top, don't bother with surge suppressing power strips or whole-house suppressors.  They won't work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Make sure comms entrances are also grounded**. Code requires that your cable TV, phone/DSL etc. lines go through a lightning arrestor on the outside of the house.  These arrestors need to be *very well grounded*, ideally just a few feet away from a ground rod (better: two) going into the earth.  A renter might be able to pester the ISP to fit quality surge suppressors on cable/phone. However, if the ground *wire* is thin, and has to be carried some long distance to get to the ground rod, it's almost a waste of time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Defend against neutral problems**. Problems with neutral can cause voltages that should be 120V to fluctuate wildly between 0 and 240V.  However this is easily handled by **auto-ranging switching power supplies** - the kind rated to function on a *range* of voltage such as 100-264V or 90-306V. They autorange on the fly, and when they get a spike that's *below* 264V, they just treat it like more usable power.  *Many products are already this; just make sure yours are.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**A whole-house surge suppressor**. Again a renter can't install this. [Siemens][7], [Eaton][8] etc. are big players in industrial power distribution. They make whole-house surge suppressors.  These are hardwired right into the service panel. In some cases they tap the mains, otherwise you hang them off a 60A breaker. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were hardcore, I suppose you could buy a large metal electrical box, put a cord and strain relief on it, and a whole-house surge suppressor and some sockets.  *Voilà, the world's biggest baddest surge suppressing power strip*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][9]][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Air-gap your connectivity**.  Lightning can't leap across WiFi.  If there's any way to WiFi your connectivity, do it.  If you feel you can't, then make sure your demarcation point surge suppression is tip-top, and maybe add some in-house surge suppression too. (but this is pointless if your grounds are rubbish.) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Buy quality power supplies**. Since it sounds like you build your gaming rig, don't treat the power supply like an afterthought or buy one for the flashy lights. Buy the best. **Server tier power supplies are not excessive at all**.  A good power supply can take a lot of hits, because that's its job. VESA isn't famous for taking surges. Buy ones that are. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**An isolation transformer**.  Here's something a tenant can do! However these things are massive with an iron core and copper windings.  Transformers (like the one on your neighborhood's utility pole) are huge inductors tuned to one frequency: 50 or 60 Hz depending which continent you are on.  Like any large inductor, they only like to pass 50/60Hz, so *they tend to block spikes and surges*. If you have any other lightning arresting in place, that should keep spike voltage low enough that it won't leap the transformer's insulation.  Place your equipment on the isolated side of the transformer, and it should see *almost no* external noise.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am reluctant to say &quot;ground the isolated side of the power supply&quot; if your house's grounds aren't very good.  It may be better to leave it an isolated system, except then you'll end up with an islanded ground. I'd fix that with GFCI. Every piece of interconnected equipment needs to be on the isolation, except for modems and routers - otherwise the connecting cords will simply carry the spike around the isolation transformer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acquiring an isolation transformer can be tricky.  First, *it's **not** a step-up/down transformer*.  You can just up-n-[buy one from Amazon][11], but the price may hurt.  I see &quot;5 KVA&quot; *service* transformers all the time on Craigslist for $100 or so, and those'll work just fine as an isolation transformer with an excess of capacity -- but you'll need a 240V power source and some help from an electrician to set it up.  In that case I would probably get a small rack and set it up like a PDU.  Craigslist sometimes sees 1.5 KVA transformers that are much lighter weight. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need an isolation transformer of appropriate size (look on your equipment's nameplate for its rating in VA [similar to watts but not quite the same], otherwise multiply amps by your line voltage: 120 or 230V).  Expect cheap gaming rigs to have numbers in the 1200 VA range (yes I know the power supply says &quot;850W&quot;!) If you can measure actual peak draw with a Kill-a-Watt, you can go with that number instead. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nemaarresters.org/lightning-proof-distribution-line/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://oppdthewire.com/lightning-arresters/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/house-ground-wires/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p7dI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtrNe.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://w3.usa.siemens.com/powerdistribution/us/en/product-portfolio/surge-protection/pages/surge-protection.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Electrical/ProductsandServices/PowerQualityandMonitoring/SurgeProtectiveDevices/index.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBwx5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2FwG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IS500HG-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00007KQKJ/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1534401449&amp;sr=1-30" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31672" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="057c35c3-2f21-4fb6-a4af-245f65f06015" CreationDate="2018-08-17T01:02:06.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31673" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9633" RevisionGUID="fcaf61d4-8e62-4bde-a5ab-2375d8f43834" CreationDate="2018-08-17T03:14:47.187" UserId="9687" Text="I am running 24*7 Web Service. So my server is expected to be connected at Internet always. I am using now CISCO 2800 router model. It just working fine. My all server boxes are Linux Machines. But Its there very hard time with my Internet Service Provider. Sometimes Its get disconnected. So I thought to buy a Secondary line from an another Internet Service Provider and connect to a New Router. I am not a System Admin Guy. Moreover I didn't have any firewalls for my servers. And I am thinking to have my routers configured as below,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* One Primary Router(Typically new Router) connected to an one ISP with Static IP. It should serve for all my servers.&#xD;&#xA;* One Secondary Router(Old Cisco 2800) connected to an another ISP with Static Ip. It should serve for all my local machines. So that our local browsing will not affect upload bandwidth of my servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK. What If ISP connected in Primary Router is get disconnected from online. In this case, The Secondary Router should get alive for my servers too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Could I do this configuartion through Routers? If I could do, then what Router should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Is there a Router will come with Firewall? What Firewall is best for my Linux Servers. I don't know much about Firewall. I just want some recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a server Related question. So I posted it earlier in [Server Fault][1]. But Someone told me to post this question here. Give your feedbacks Instead of giving Negatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://serverfault.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31674" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9633" RevisionGUID="fcaf61d4-8e62-4bde-a5ab-2375d8f43834" CreationDate="2018-08-17T03:14:47.187" UserId="9687" Text="Need a Router Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31675" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9633" RevisionGUID="fcaf61d4-8e62-4bde-a5ab-2375d8f43834" CreationDate="2018-08-17T03:14:47.187" UserId="9687" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9634" RevisionGUID="071f14bb-3650-4315-809b-9186ee7fc85a" CreationDate="2018-08-18T00:22:46.847" UserId="527" Text="As you can read in [this Super User question][1], I'm having a hard time getting two external 2.5&quot; platter-based hard drives to run simultaneously off a single USB 3.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a USB3 hub with individual switches for each port that can definitely accomplish this task?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1350097/how-to-consistently-get-usb-3-0-connections-to-multiple-external-hard-drives-fro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9634" RevisionGUID="071f14bb-3650-4315-809b-9186ee7fc85a" CreationDate="2018-08-18T00:22:46.847" UserId="527" Text="USB3 hub that can handle 2 external hard drives simultaneously" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9634" RevisionGUID="071f14bb-3650-4315-809b-9186ee7fc85a" CreationDate="2018-08-18T00:22:46.847" UserId="527" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31682" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="b4624283-5e35-4775-9c56-583fc56e167b" CreationDate="2018-08-18T01:01:38.937" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31693" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="9c4d2bb9-2697-4204-bd59-212c5ac1b3f9" CreationDate="2018-08-18T15:02:11.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31697" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9639" RevisionGUID="8c95fbc8-6fb9-4966-9ca9-7376e2c4cf0f" CreationDate="2018-08-19T07:29:27.937" UserId="9695" Text="I would like to do some computation on my PC.   &#xD;&#xA;Thereby I wonder - what is healthy load for CPU?  I mean at which maximum CPU load % my CPU would survive the longest.  &#xD;&#xA;Or should I watch for other parameters, like temperature?  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31698" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9639" RevisionGUID="8c95fbc8-6fb9-4966-9ca9-7376e2c4cf0f" CreationDate="2018-08-19T07:29:27.937" UserId="9695" Text="What is healthy load % for CPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31699" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9639" RevisionGUID="8c95fbc8-6fb9-4966-9ca9-7376e2c4cf0f" CreationDate="2018-08-19T07:29:27.937" UserId="9695" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="ab09ae57-bb5d-4496-a653-a3aed07e4b13" CreationDate="2018-08-19T14:20:25.293" UserId="9697" Text="**Background:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a android developer. In some phases of the development process I have to look how the layouts/app looks on different phones. Therefore you can attach all phones to a usb-hub and deploy the changes to all devices simulatinously. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Problem**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The company I am working at bought me a (medium-&quot;end&quot;) usb-hub that I can use to deploy my changes to all the phones - but most of the time the phones are all empty because they were just laying the in drawer for a while. Keeping them connected to the USB-Hub while the computer is not attached does not charge them sufficiently. The usb-hub is also not capable of charging 4 drained out phone simulatinously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TL/DR - What I am looking for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a Multiport (aprox. 8 port) charger that is capable of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - charging(!) the phones (plural!) while the computer is not conected&#xD;&#xA; - is able to be used as a USB-Hub&#xD;&#xA; - transfering data with a decent speed (at least usb 2.0)&#xD;&#xA; - in the best case it also charges(!) the devices faster then the mac could while the mac is connected&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I could only find either good Charger or good hubs. Not both.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="ab09ae57-bb5d-4496-a653-a3aed07e4b13" CreationDate="2018-08-19T14:20:25.293" UserId="9697" Text="USB Charging! HUB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="ab09ae57-bb5d-4496-a653-a3aed07e4b13" CreationDate="2018-08-19T14:20:25.293" UserId="9697" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31706" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9642" RevisionGUID="bd1c89cd-9457-438d-aa09-96a72e0944a2" CreationDate="2018-08-19T22:31:11.703" UserId="9698" Text="For your microprocessor you should worry only about voltage and temperature; in that order. Everything else is mostly irrelevant." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31707" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="cb36d376-c859-49a7-bbf3-4e2f4d3e1fc5" CreationDate="2018-08-20T02:00:56.990" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31708" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="b253e90d-0fd3-4bd2-aed1-c8e38be83ac5" CreationDate="2018-08-20T04:04:41.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="5565ab9b-27ee-4c95-b17e-3dc54c7a7de6" CreationDate="2018-08-20T05:00:43.677" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="5e5c7131-6427-4649-8c6d-b03937d825a0" CreationDate="2018-08-20T15:01:52.043" UserId="9691" Text="Essentially I want to build a very simple docking solution for a laptop with a USB-C port, to provide power to the laptop and connect a monitor (with DisplayPort) and two input devices (with USB) to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the cheapest way to achieve this?  It's okay if the charger is separate from the mini-dock.  The only requirement is that only one cable has to be attached to the laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31711" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="5e5c7131-6427-4649-8c6d-b03937d825a0" CreationDate="2018-08-20T15:01:52.043" UserId="9691" Text="Cheapest way to connect power, DisplayPort and two USB devices to USB-C port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31712" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="5e5c7131-6427-4649-8c6d-b03937d825a0" CreationDate="2018-08-20T15:01:52.043" UserId="9691" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31716" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9246" RevisionGUID="28be6285-8b66-484f-b829-c7ca68ac02ec" CreationDate="2018-08-20T17:00:05.360" UserId="5988" Comment="Remove invective, attempted to distill out the useful information" Text="If you want a true 100W USB-C dedicated charger that has no other function (no other ports stealing the power, all 100W is in the one USB-C, and not a docking station), then I suggest the Wacom MobileStudio Pro charger:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://buywacom.com.au/products/accessories/cables-and-power/power-adapter-for-mobilestudio-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If any visitors are in Australia, I believe it has RCM certification for use here. Also, unfortunately, the cord is not detachable. Laptop manufacturers who make these chargers tend to hold on to what they are used of, which is laptop chargers with hardwired cords. This means the cord cannot be replaced if damaged, it cannot be swapped for cables of different lengths, and if anybody actually cares, it would make it impossible to fast charge an iPad with the USB-C to Lightning cable (the only way to charge at full rate right now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for multiple ports, there are ones with 8x 60W USB-C PD ports. Also ones with six and four, plus a cabinet with 20x PD ports (up to 60W each, but shared with 120V per bank and 4 banks for total of 480W):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-chargers&#xD;&#xA; - https://www.coolgear.com/news/new-usb-c-power-delivery-products-coolgear.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31717" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9246" RevisionGUID="28be6285-8b66-484f-b829-c7ca68ac02ec" CreationDate="2018-08-20T17:00:05.360" Comment="Proposed by 5988 approved by 60 edit id of 730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31718" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9587" RevisionGUID="31fed399-9638-47be-95d6-1fa5a4e878bb" CreationDate="2018-08-20T17:01:23.153" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31720" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9566" RevisionGUID="952eeb35-0c51-43dd-b1ea-7f7d73560262" CreationDate="2018-08-20T17:05:22.670" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31724" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9646" RevisionGUID="2492ce32-605f-4a46-a465-a6ce53daec44" CreationDate="2018-08-20T21:14:50.950" UserId="5995" Text="Shortly: NO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long: it gets really complicated, for sure there are bandwidth limitations and a hub will always be limited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you also introduce external display support, you should be aware that this cuts the maximum possible bandwith a LOT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will probably never be able to use a 5K external display and have a 10GBe ethernet connection from a single USB-3.0 hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Powering over USB-C limits also the maximum speed, so in that aspect USB-C is kinda doomed because it only introduced a standard port but when it comes to capabilities, there are lots and lots of footnotes to read.... as in &quot;you get A feature only when B AND C XOR D happens." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31730" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9639" RevisionGUID="a06ac262-5e1e-4253-93b5-839ba9fefb4e" CreationDate="2018-08-20T21:41:14.870" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31734" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="e6b1a7c9-2833-472c-a925-673a36057960" CreationDate="2018-08-20T21:50:04.453" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9647" RevisionGUID="0edabc6e-7d3b-43de-bc66-4bac693a4967" CreationDate="2018-08-20T23:55:30.110" UserId="5449" Text="I would like to have a touchpad about the size of the one on typical laptop to put right below my bluetooth keyboard.  My bluetooth keyboard is compact and JIS(Japanese) and rather unique so I need something that fits ideally in that space.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31737" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9647" RevisionGUID="0edabc6e-7d3b-43de-bc66-4bac693a4967" CreationDate="2018-08-20T23:55:30.110" UserId="5449" Text="Bluetooth Touchpad for my bluetooth keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31738" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9647" RevisionGUID="0edabc6e-7d3b-43de-bc66-4bac693a4967" CreationDate="2018-08-20T23:55:30.110" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31742" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="05f81a54-76ae-4cfb-b5f6-47b3066ae7af" CreationDate="2018-08-21T08:02:05.957" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31743" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9415" RevisionGUID="5b803b53-8276-4a2c-a9ec-845ec21862d6" CreationDate="2018-08-21T09:01:26.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31751" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9634" RevisionGUID="55fcc4e3-3b79-4817-91bc-6cfe44aa2f93" CreationDate="2018-08-21T19:23:45.130" UserId="527" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="As you can read in [this Super User question][1], I'm having a hard time getting two external 2.5&quot; platter-based hard drives to run **in USB 3.0 mode** simultaneously off a single USB 3.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a USB3 hub with individual switches for each port that can definitely accomplish this task?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1350097/how-to-consistently-get-usb-3-0-connections-to-multiple-external-hard-drives-fro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="ab315155-86a4-4a53-823b-c9996b5b04d3" CreationDate="2018-08-21T19:34:29.327" UserId="1410" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a full 9 bit UART (with no bit stuffing, or tricks with the parity bit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 9 bit UART should preferably be on-board, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a lot of purported solutions using bit-banging, but would rather do it properly, as any problems with bit-banging would not be much fun to debug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31755" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="2101" RevisionGUID="d0983059-aaba-4ebf-ad61-76e478aba22a" CreationDate="2018-08-21T21:24:01.947" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31759" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="d24de0bd-5ba7-4a74-9adb-39bb5aee0188" CreationDate="2018-08-21T22:32:13.467" UserId="9691" Comment="Make it clear that I don't want to *build* the docking station myself." Text="Essentially I want to have a very simple docking solution for a laptop with a USB-C port, to provide power to the laptop and connect a monitor (with DisplayPort) and two input devices (with USB) to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the cheapest way to achieve this?  It's okay if the charger is separate from the mini-dock.  The only requirement is that only one cable has to be attached to the laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9651" RevisionGUID="a31eb8ad-e6c5-4154-a51e-da0b992b24cb" CreationDate="2018-08-22T13:52:39.707" UserId="6047" Text="I was originally thinking of recommending you a wall plugged USB hub, however; it seems you already went that route and the hubs were unable to negotiate the power necessary for reliability. Because of this, I had to take a step back and think of an approach that would be guaranteed to run two HDD's at the same time. I ultimately decided to recommend you specialized hardware designed for your exact user case scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Startech 2.5 SSD/HDD Enclosure $66.15 (MSRP: $92.99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Hard drive enclosure][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, this system acts as a hardware layer between your HDD's and you target machine with a mini-PSU strapped to the back. This system will most definitely be able to handle your user case scenarios. [Here's a video][3] of the enclosure in action. It will of course, need to plug into the wall with an AC to DC adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2 Bay enclosure&#xD;&#xA; - Internal SATA interface (I/II/III)&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - 2 A Output Current&#xD;&#xA; - 5 v Output Voltage&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with Windows, Mac, Chrome and Linux (2.4.x and up)&#xD;&#xA; - Individual switches (inside enclosure)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports RAID 0/1/JBOD and BIG&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also a USB 3.1 variant for $86.99 (MSRP: 125.99) and a Thunderbolt 2 variant for $236.37 ($326.99). Personally, I would stick with the USB 3.0 variant I recommended above as SATA III only supports up to 6 Gb/s anyway. The other 2 variants are overkill unless you want fan speed control and/or configure the system for a RAID 0 (striping) SSD configuration and purchase SSDs actually capable of 750 MB/s+ combined simultaneous read and write speeds. I say SSDs because any HDD you buy is pretty much never going to actually hit the SATA III limit anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA24G3434931&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNzJR.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPCHlZO3V1E" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31762" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="3000e633-0784-46d5-af01-1036ef1ecb39" CreationDate="2018-08-22T13:57:48.943" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="5c24e725-024f-41cc-a1f4-c4b00feb5c0d" CreationDate="2018-08-22T14:50:31.197" UserId="5792" Comment="Added Ducky Shine 6" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra, 3rd-party ones proven reliable over many years&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Even when mapped, the key sizes don't feel right when used on macOS. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     ┌──────────────╥─────┬──────┬─────────┬──────────┬──────────┐&#xD;&#xA;     │  Requirement ║ K70 │ WASD │ Shine 6 │ MK Pro L │ ANNE Pro │&#xD;&#xA;     ╞══════════════╬═════╪══════╪═════════╪══════════╪══════════╡&#xD;&#xA;     │       Browns ║  ✓  │   ✓  │    ✓    │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 7 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤ &#xD;&#xA;     │  Mac Keycaps ║     │   ✓  │    3P   │    3P    │     ✓    │ 6 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Construction ║  ✓  │      │         │          │          │ 5 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │ Solid Driver ║     │  3P  │         │          │          │ 4 pts (3 for 3P)&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │       Numpad ║  ✓  │   ✓  │    ✓    │     ✓    │          │ 3 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │    Prog. RGB ║  ✓  │      │    ✓    │     ✓    │     ✓    │ 2 pts&#xD;&#xA;     ├──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;     │      USB Hub ║  ✓  │   ✓  │    ✓    │          │          │ 1 pt&#xD;&#xA;     └──────────────╫─────┼──────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤&#xD;&#xA;    Weighted Score: ║ 64% │  71% │   57%   │    54%   │    54%   │&#xD;&#xA;                    ╙─────┴──────┴─────────┴──────────┴──────────┘" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31767" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="974bfe1c-2b79-4c4b-8f34-29608b6895cc" CreationDate="2018-08-23T01:00:52.787" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31769" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="abe3203f-f31b-4d1b-8f6d-f249828e97d4" CreationDate="2018-08-23T03:00:58.780" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="f1f6532c-b5ea-4e24-aec5-2a8504574fde" CreationDate="2018-08-23T08:14:20.210" UserId="9426" Text="i just bought a Xiaomi air 13.3 (2018). It comes with 2 M2 SSD bays, one is occupied by the stock M2 NVMe (that i replaced with a Samsung 970) and the other one is free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to put the old SSD in the empty slot, but it doesn't fit, so i made some research and i found that the second slot isn't an NVMe slot, but a mSATA or SATA i think (?),Googling for it i ddn't find the specification.&#xD;&#xA;So which type of SSD should i put in the free slot?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="f1f6532c-b5ea-4e24-aec5-2a8504574fde" CreationDate="2018-08-23T08:14:20.210" UserId="9426" Text="M2 drive for Xiaomi air 13.3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="f1f6532c-b5ea-4e24-aec5-2a8504574fde" CreationDate="2018-08-23T08:14:20.210" UserId="9426" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="a4e87468-8b42-4641-b6d2-71925f18935b" CreationDate="2018-08-23T09:17:07.930" UserId="9713" Text="I have a 2-floor house, the router is located on the first floor.  &#xD;&#xA;On the second floor, the reception is a bad in some rooms and better in others.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking Amplifier/Router that can receive network cable and publish it as WIFI.  &#xD;&#xA;And in the same device, I'm looking for a way to receive wifi and publish it better.  &#xD;&#xA;I prefer Xiomi products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31774" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="a4e87468-8b42-4641-b6d2-71925f18935b" CreationDate="2018-08-23T09:17:07.930" UserId="9713" Text="Looking for some sort of wifi Amplifier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31775" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="a4e87468-8b42-4641-b6d2-71925f18935b" CreationDate="2018-08-23T09:17:07.930" UserId="9713" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9655" RevisionGUID="c3d7ccbc-2c1c-4d69-99e7-673a774b3468" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:07:53.563" UserId="1410" Text="I have found a few old Kickstart projects, such as [this](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/geekroo/pipeye-an-advanced-battery-hat-to-power-your-raspb/posts/1323876), which consist of a case (not on-topic), containing a Real Time Clock and battery power for the Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some have a few extra features, such as a display, or solar power panel, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of anything with at least the capabilities of the referenced project? (or even where I can buy one of those)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31777" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9655" RevisionGUID="c3d7ccbc-2c1c-4d69-99e7-673a774b3468" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:07:53.563" UserId="1410" Text="Raspbery Pi case with Real TIme Clock and battery power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31778" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9655" RevisionGUID="c3d7ccbc-2c1c-4d69-99e7-673a774b3468" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:07:53.563" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;real-time-clock&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9657" RevisionGUID="2b2349d7-09e9-4d34-8c00-05c42421435e" CreationDate="2018-08-23T11:58:57.760" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31784" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9657" RevisionGUID="2b2349d7-09e9-4d34-8c00-05c42421435e" CreationDate="2018-08-23T11:58:57.760" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31785" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9658" RevisionGUID="7abaa780-d789-452a-8bb9-901e41431d2b" CreationDate="2018-08-23T11:58:57.760" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31786" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9658" RevisionGUID="7abaa780-d789-452a-8bb9-901e41431d2b" CreationDate="2018-08-23T11:58:57.760" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9658" RevisionGUID="6a722eb9-c4c8-4b2e-8f3b-9f1a72849fda" CreationDate="2018-08-23T13:17:06.910" UserId="1410" Comment="added 207 characters in body" Text="A battery backed-clock which will retain and continue to update date and time, even if the device which uses it loses power. Some RTCs can awaken their parent device from sleep mode at a pre-programmed time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31788" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9658" RevisionGUID="6a722eb9-c4c8-4b2e-8f3b-9f1a72849fda" CreationDate="2018-08-23T13:17:06.910" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 60 edit id of 734" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="1de30a64-1999-4c42-a522-46275a567af1" CreationDate="2018-08-23T17:50:20.303" UserId="4271" Text="[Asus N552VX][1] laptop comes with a hard disk. To make it faster I replaced the hard disk with Adata Ultimate SU800 SSD(SATA connection) and attached the mechanical hard disk replacing optical disk drive. Now the problem is normally laptop got faster, but OS(Windows 10) loads slowly than hard disk in ssd which is very unusual. There is no problem in the SSD itself, because I have tested this SSD in other laptop which works fine.Problem occur only with the above mentioned Asus laptop. N.B. this Asus laptop has M.2 port and this. Now I want to use a M.2 SSD with this but I'm fearing that will same problem be occurred with M.2 SSD. So please recommend a M.2 SSD which will be compatible with this laptop. [a data][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Laptops/VivoBook-Pro-N552VX/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.adata.com/en/specification/410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31790" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="1de30a64-1999-4c42-a522-46275a567af1" CreationDate="2018-08-23T17:50:20.303" UserId="4271" Text="SSD for Asus N552VX laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31791" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="1de30a64-1999-4c42-a522-46275a567af1" CreationDate="2018-08-23T17:50:20.303" UserId="4271" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31793" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="a0754e95-87d1-4115-88e3-bb69be0eb7ab" CreationDate="2018-08-24T07:01:31.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31797" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="228ed477-6edc-4948-87ac-d68c9d6ad715" CreationDate="2018-08-24T11:06:05.633" UserId="4271" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="[Asus N552VX][1] laptop comes with a hard disk. To make it faster I replaced the hard disk with [Adata Ultimate SU800][2] SSD(SATA connection) and attached the mechanical hard disk replacing optical disk drive. Now the problem is normally laptop got faster, but OS(Windows 10) loads slowly than hard disk in ssd which is very unusual. There is no problem in the SSD itself, because I have tested this SSD in other laptop which works fine.Problem occur only with the above mentioned Asus laptop. N.B. this Asus laptop has M.2 port and this. Now I want to use a M.2 SSD with this but I'm fearing that will same problem be occurred with M.2 SSD. So please recommend a M.2 SSD which will be compatible with this laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Laptops/VivoBook-Pro-N552VX/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.adata.com/en/specification/410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31801" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="32ec167a-c797-41a5-a039-aa3f7eaaaa1c" CreationDate="2018-08-24T14:08:21.440" UserId="60" Comment="added 90 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I just bought a Xiaomi air 13.3 (2018). It comes with 2 M2 SSD bays, one is occupied by the stock M2 NVMe (that I replaced with a Samsung 970) and the other one is open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to put the old SSD in the empty slot, but it doesn't fit. I looked into it and I found that the second slot isn't an NVMe slot, but a mSATA or SATA i think. (I couldn't find the specification while googling).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I still have an empty SSD slot, I am looking for a drive between 500GB and 1TB to put into the laptop. The cheaper the drive is the better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31802" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="32ec167a-c797-41a5-a039-aa3f7eaaaa1c" CreationDate="2018-08-24T14:08:21.440" UserId="60" Comment="added 90 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9662" RevisionGUID="bffc0b9a-6e10-4ca3-bf5a-9eb7c57f1e27" CreationDate="2018-08-24T14:31:04.027" UserId="6047" Text="[Wavlink 7-Port USB 3.0 Superspeed Hub with 48W Power Adapter €25,99][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![Wavlink Hub][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a pretty good experience with Wavlink products in the past. They seem to be good at delivering a premium look and feel without the premium price. It claims to be capable of &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Transfer data at speeds of up to 5 Gbps through 7 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; and &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Compatible with the BC 1.2 charging standard, the 7-Port USB 3.0 Hub&#xD;&#xA;&gt; can charge your devices up to 2.4A each port when being used as a&#xD;&#xA;&gt; stand-alone charger with no host computer attached&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB standard Support: 1,2,3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Offline charging up to 5V/2.4A per port&#xD;&#xA; - Power switches and LEDs for each port&#xD;&#xA; - 12V/4A Power Adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Oh and by the way, international shipping is free, so that's a nice plus.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/de/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PF6EM9309&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1S9i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="84c0ae46-b8e4-4b8f-bc8c-0b0bc700e5dd" CreationDate="2018-08-24T15:42:28.723" UserId="4271" Comment="added 361 characters in body" Text="[Asus N552VX][1] laptop comes with a hard disk. To make it faster I replaced the hard disk with [Adata Ultimate SU800][2] SSD(SATA connection) and attached the mechanical hard disk replacing optical disk drive. Now the problem is normally laptop got faster, but OS(Windows 10) loads slowly than hard disk in ssd which is very unusual. There is no problem in the SSD itself, because I have tested this SSD in other laptop which works fine.Problem occur only with the above mentioned Asus laptop. N.B. this Asus laptop has M.2 port and this. Now I want to use a M.2 SSD with this but I'm fearing that will same problem be occurred with M.2 SSD. So please recommend a M.2 SSD which will be compatible with this laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Config:&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i5-6300HQ&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard Chipset: Intel HM170 (Skylake PCH-H)&#xD;&#xA;2 sticks of DDR4 4GB RAM (SK Hynix)&#xD;&#xA;NVIDIA GeForce GTX 950M&#xD;&#xA;Intel HD Graphics 530&#xD;&#xA;TOSHIBA MQ01ABD100 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BIOS details:&#xD;&#xA;BIOS Vendor: American Megatrends Inc.&#xD;&#xA;BIOS Version: N552VX.207&#xD;&#xA;BIOS Release Date: 02/04/2016&#xD;&#xA;BIOS Start Segment: F000&#xD;&#xA;BIOS Size: 6016 KBytes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Laptops/VivoBook-Pro-N552VX/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.adata.com/en/specification/410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31806" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="91e2a2e9-2772-476a-b98f-a4df8e1a57c2" CreationDate="2018-08-24T18:00:23.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9663" RevisionGUID="52f8fe91-f08b-4c03-9d62-5110e9fcc8cb" CreationDate="2018-08-24T22:20:55.817" UserId="5030" Text="Based on the spec sheet and model number that you provided, and [this review](https://laptopmedia.com/review/asus-n552vx-review-not-the-update-weve-expected-but-adds-some-essential-features/) it looks to me like any optional M.2 PCIe NVMe 2280 SSD should work. Crucial lists several if you expand [the list.](http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/ASUS/n552vw) It never hurts to double check with the manufacturer regarding any limitations inherent in **your particular model**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be remiss if I didn't note an SSD should never be as slow as a hard drive and that this is truly the result that you are getting, something is most definitely wrong (possibly your testing methodology) as the Toshiba MQ01ABD100 is a 5400 RPM drive and the [benchmarks](http://hdd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/784/TOSHIBA-MQ01ABD100) are less than stellar and the Adata you linked to on it's worst day should [benchmark much faster](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Adata-Ultimate-SU800-128GB-vs-Adata-Ultimate-SU800-256GB/3911vs3912)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31815" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="6e99b423-4744-4a86-8f08-86d50d634792" CreationDate="2018-08-25T09:00:40.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31823" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9666" RevisionGUID="a92ca704-e52f-4e76-9bc9-75cb1a91afcd" CreationDate="2018-08-26T04:26:51.280" UserId="9727" Text="Late answer, but if you are looking for a cheap tablet, you could try a [Yuntab K107][1] for $81.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Picture of Yuntab K107][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1 inch, 1280x800 IPS screen&#xD;&#xA; - 1.3Ghz quad core processor&#xD;&#xA; - 1GB RAM (1033Mhz?), 16GB ROM (on most models, only 1.5GB is in the internal memory block and the rest is an internal SD card)&#xD;&#xA; - Wi-Fi (802.11abgn), Bluetooth 4.0, 2G/3G&#xD;&#xA; - Slots for microSD (up to 32GB) and 2 SIM cards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros (for your purpose):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA; - No CM/LineageOS, but does have Android 5.1&#xD;&#xA; - Good audio quality&#xD;&#xA; - Good screen (not an AMOLED though, so no good blacks)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports 1080p30 video&#xD;&#xA; - Several optional accessories, such as a [non-keyboard case][3], a [keyboard case][4], and a [silicone case][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Some users have reported defects (like lines on the screen)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If something cheap isn't for you, you could alternatively get a [Samsung Galaxy Tab A][6] for about $280.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Samsung Galaxy Tab A picture][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1 inch, 1920x1200 screem&#xD;&#xA; - 1.6Ghz octa-core processor&#xD;&#xA; - 2GB RAM @1866Mhz, 16GB ROM&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 4.2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros (for your purpose):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Android 6.0 (Marshmallow)&#xD;&#xA; - 10.1&quot; AMOLED screen&#xD;&#xA; - Supports 1080p60 (not 4k)&#xD;&#xA; - Lots of accessories&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I personally haven't used the second device listed, but it is a lot better then the first one if you are not on an extreme budget)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I64QIW0/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOIY4.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGDL1TR/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KSSPQ6/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKC5GG&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EUC7NAI/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwMw7.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31824" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="6f4edaf2-a37a-4c2a-90cf-7ca3031a8980" CreationDate="2018-08-26T08:00:39.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9667" RevisionGUID="a55b04e5-7c31-41da-a1c8-ffe0ec06ef6f" CreationDate="2018-08-26T08:40:32.393" UserId="9728" Text="I am building a quadcopter and I am searching for a communication module for the **raspberry pi**, which can send big data over long range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I need a module with a range of approximately 2 km range, a daterate of 1,500 - 4,000 KB / second (for video streaming) and [RSSI][1] support.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that this is possible, because the [DJI Marvic Pro 2][2] drone is able to create a video stream in Full HD (1920 x 180 pixels) up to 8 km.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In the best case:**&#xD;&#xA;The module creates a livestream of 1280 x 720 pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Realistic:** 480 x 852 pixels (in case of need, less) are also ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the best frequency is between **1.2Ghz and 5.8Ghz** (This is also a license-free ISM band)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some that I have looked at, but **do not** meet my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SI4432**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - range: 1.5km&#xD;&#xA; - rate: **256KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RFM95 oder RFM98**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range 2.5km&#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - **rate: 300KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SX1276**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range 5 km &#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - **rate: 5KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HC-12**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range: 1.8km&#xD;&#xA; - **RSSI: no**&#xD;&#xA; - rate: 5000 KB / s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your recommendations!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Received_Signal_Strength_Indication&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dji.com/de/mavic-2/info" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31826" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9667" RevisionGUID="a55b04e5-7c31-41da-a1c8-ffe0ec06ef6f" CreationDate="2018-08-26T08:40:32.393" UserId="9728" Text="Long range communication module with high data rate (e.g. for video streaming)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31827" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9667" RevisionGUID="a55b04e5-7c31-41da-a1c8-ffe0ec06ef6f" CreationDate="2018-08-26T08:40:32.393" UserId="9728" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9667" RevisionGUID="99239df5-b5d5-480c-be7f-807cd3b2afef" CreationDate="2018-08-26T08:59:17.007" UserId="9728" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am building a quadcopter and I am searching for a communication module for the **raspberry pi**, which can send big data over long range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I need a module with a range of approximately 1 - 2 km range, a daterate of 1,500 - 4,000 KB / second (for video streaming) and [RSSI][1] support.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that this is possible, because the [DJI Marvic Pro 2][2] drone is able to create a video stream in Full HD (1920 x 180 pixels) up to 8 km.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In the best case:**&#xD;&#xA;The module creates a livestream of 1280 x 720 pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Realistic:** 480 x 852 pixels (in case of need, less) are also ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think the best frequency is between **1.2Ghz and 5.8Ghz** (This is also a license-free ISM band)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some that I have looked at, but **do not** meet my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SI4432**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - range: 1.5km&#xD;&#xA; - rate: **256KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RFM95 oder RFM98**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range 2.5km&#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - **rate: 300KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SX1276**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range 5 km &#xD;&#xA; - RSSI: yes&#xD;&#xA; - **rate: 5KB / s**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HC-12**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - range: 1.8km&#xD;&#xA; - **RSSI: no**&#xD;&#xA; - rate: 5000 KB / s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your recommendations!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Received_Signal_Strength_Indication&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dji.com/de/mavic-2/info" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9668" RevisionGUID="fa29c3dd-0937-49dd-b6b7-0e37549e5cb0" CreationDate="2018-08-26T12:59:40.343" UserId="2033" Text="You should look for Wi-Fi repeaters or extenders. You don't need a network cable for this. Xiaomi has them but there are other companies too&#xD;&#xA;[![Xiami Wi-Fi Repeater][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's from another company (Netgear)&#xD;&#xA;[![Netgear Wi-Fi Repeater][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ev3Eg.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eupCY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31830" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="e6595f48-420e-4625-b3bc-3f943aae6d8e" CreationDate="2018-08-26T13:00:20.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9669" RevisionGUID="f4cdfbb3-d5f9-482a-9734-b1b4a0b185d2" CreationDate="2018-08-26T15:43:16.120" UserId="9730" Text="I'm building a laptop. Don't ask why I just am. Im looking for memory chips for my Intel® Core™ i5-8269U Processor. I am so confused. I don't know what lpddr3 chips to get for 16gb of ram. Im leaning towards micron or sk Hynix. Most laptop companies use (SKhynix H9CCNNNBJTAL) memory for these cpus. But it doesn't exist. What memory chips out there support a rate of 2133. None. So what should I do.Can you show me the chips I need." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9669" RevisionGUID="f4cdfbb3-d5f9-482a-9734-b1b4a0b185d2" CreationDate="2018-08-26T15:43:16.120" UserId="9730" Text="Intel® Core™ i5-8269U Processor has memory of LPDDR3-2133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9669" RevisionGUID="f4cdfbb3-d5f9-482a-9734-b1b4a0b185d2" CreationDate="2018-08-26T15:43:16.120" UserId="9730" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31837" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9669" RevisionGUID="06d4e585-24a0-4603-985a-f250a2565a53" CreationDate="2018-08-26T16:57:38.817" UserId="9730" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;memory-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="78dda5b7-3014-4081-93ce-e3f2ba949cf1" CreationDate="2018-08-26T17:50:06.890" UserId="9591" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for small Type-C Male to 2x Type-C Female cable for smartphone (with the possibility of charging). But I really haven't even seen any. Is there an opportunity to find any, do they exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31840" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="f85fd0cb-7ae8-4535-944b-f30621e624fb" CreationDate="2018-08-27T02:00:18.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31841" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="a00d2224-5a37-4af4-9caa-0ccdccaaa447" CreationDate="2018-08-27T10:00:55.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9671" RevisionGUID="d746c3ac-d306-4e01-adb9-062f557d1e56" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:36:59.617" UserId="9426" Text="After looking deeper into this, the second free M2 slot is SATA. The best choice is SATA M2 with B&amp;M key like the Crucial MX500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31845" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="6368f0ca-a10e-425a-bc78-b952478e7867" CreationDate="2018-08-27T15:01:24.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31846" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="f93f8777-443b-49d6-be4b-87e32aa06db3" CreationDate="2018-08-27T16:00:53.797" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31850" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="4308d152-802b-434f-82c0-73247001628d" CreationDate="2018-08-27T17:01:10.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31858" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="8fe8451f-a6c8-4819-ada5-d914fd1ca4e8" CreationDate="2018-08-27T21:01:04.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31859" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7501" RevisionGUID="adeaf163-6762-41f2-b3cb-f8dd5bca2edc" CreationDate="2018-08-28T01:00:54.717" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31860" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="6e4609ee-f085-4f86-9a66-7c455d8b7005" CreationDate="2018-08-28T02:00:06.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9675" RevisionGUID="91623649-e0eb-48be-bb0a-b2b62449f620" CreationDate="2018-08-28T07:19:45.077" UserId="9731" Text="This question was bumped by the [Community][1] user a couple of hours ago. Presumably user &quot;gem&quot; has either purchased a computer or is willing to wait. I'll try to provide a *leading edge* suggestion that doesn't bust the upper limits of his generous budget. My suggestion only accounts for the cost of a bootable computer and doesn't include the statistical analysis software or the cost of installation and configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will offer a few suggestions, obviously there are thousands of choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows or Linux, the hardware is the same - only the software would change.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Statistical Software:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows: [JMP statistical analysis software][2] - U$1,785&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Linux: It is *possible* to run [JMP in a virtual container][3] for Linux users. There are many [websites][4] suggesting statistical analysis software for Linux, some of the suggestions are: [R][5], [PSPP][6], [SOFA Statistics][7], and others. It's also possible to run the Linux software in a virtual container for Windows users, often there is a Windows version of popukar Linux software available too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Quadro RTX 5000][8] with 16GB memory - U$2,300&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Computer: [Supermicro A+ SuperServer 4023S-TRT][9] - U$12,377&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - **2x** AMD EPYC 7351 Processor 16-core 2.40GHz 64MB Cache (155/170W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - 256 GB via 8 DIMMs at 2666 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - 1.0TB Samsung 960 PRO M.2 PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe Solid State Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - 10.0TB SATA 6.0GB/s 7200RPM - 3.5&quot; - Seagate Exos X10 Series (Helium)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - **2x** Intel® 10-Gigabit Ethernet Converged Network Adapter X710-T4 (4x RJ45)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - Microsoft Windows Server 2016 Standard (24-core)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - **2x** Additional 4-core License for Microsoft Windows Server 2016 Standard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - 5-Device Client Access License (CAL) for Microsoft Windows Server 2016/2012&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - Additional 16-core License for Microsoft Windows Server 2016 Standard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     - 3 Year Depot Warranty (Return for Repair)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately that site doesn't have a 'Share this configuration' link but it lets you print out a Spec sheet. If you removed all the Microsoft Windows software and licenses the cost would be **U$10,725 without**: &quot;Microsoft Windows Server 2016 Standard (24-core)&quot; **and** &quot;5-Device Client Access License (CAL) for Microsoft Windows Server 2016/2012&quot; **and** &quot;Additional **2x**4-core License for Microsoft Windows Server 2016 Standard&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Quadro RTX 5000 (16GB with 256-bit memory bus) for U$2,300 isn't available yet and getting a better model involves a steep jump in price with an RTX 6000 (24GB memory and 384 bit bus) for U$6,300 ESP or an RTX 8000 (48GB, also with 384-bit memory bus) for most of your budget at U$10,000 - The JMP Statistical Analysis Software will support those cards and their associated speedup of calculations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A second 1TB SSD would allow you to RAID the drives for another U$654 but that's punching the roof on the budget. Alternatively two 512GB drives could be had for an extra U$90 over a single 1TB drive. It's almost double the speed versus twice as much on deck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hardware is only a suggestion since you'll have to wait until year's end for the GPU, so you might as well wait for the [Epyc][10] 8000 series with 7nm technology and likely at least 50% more cores and likely a higher clock rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It sort of an in-between time for buying a system for the future. Buying last year's hardware at a considerable savings is another possibility but you lose both the warranty and the big advantages that are promised by year end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Hardware][11]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/-1/community&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sas.com/jmpstore/software/jmp/prodJMP.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://community.jmp.com/t5/Discussions/Linux-Support/td-p/20272&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.linuxlinks.com/statisticalanalysis/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.r-project.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.gnu.org/software/pspp/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.sofastatistics.com/home.php&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://nvidianews.nvidia.com/news/nvidia-unveils-quadro-rtx-worlds-first-ray-tracing-gpu&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.thinkmate.com/system/a+-server-4023s-trt&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/epyc-server&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jH4uB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9676" RevisionGUID="2296198d-b4a8-4a97-8914-65ff9a763011" CreationDate="2018-08-28T08:56:56.257" UserId="9731" Text="One manufacturer that offers Dolby Atmos headphones with above/below 360° sound is [Plantronics][1] with their RIG 800LX, 600LX and 400LX. Truth be told, Atmos works with *any* stereo headphones but it's bound to be a bit better with headphones that are [licensed by Dolby][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is 7.1 headphones, with not just two stereo drivers but several.&#xD;&#xA;[![Razer Tiamat][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Razer [Tiamat 7.1 V2][4] delivers surround sound through 10 discrete drivers – 5 in each ear cup. A similar idea is used by the Asus [ROG Centurion][5] 7.1 gaming headsets, with five discrete neodymium magnets in each ear cup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.plantronics.com/ca/en/features/dolby-atmos&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.techradar.com/news/weve-tried-out-plantronics-dolby-atmos-exclusive-headset-heres-how-it-works&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5ThO.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.razer.com/ca-en/gaming-audio/razer-tiamat-71-v2&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Headphones-Headsets/ROG-Centurion/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31864" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="e14b825e-0b5b-4402-a428-b530fb24c147" CreationDate="2018-08-28T18:02:47.877" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31875" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="d6289778-8ab8-4de4-bcf5-63153f43c8e5" CreationDate="2018-08-28T22:01:03.950" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31876" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9680" RevisionGUID="58765ec9-0229-4b16-8342-53a426028190" CreationDate="2018-08-29T02:39:30.477" UserId="9725" Text="This is a simplified model of our network:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    LAN1                                           LAN2&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------------------------+              +--------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    |                               |              |                          |&#xD;&#xA;    | +---+  eth  +----+   wl  +--+ |  +--------+  | +---+  eth  +----------+ |&#xD;&#xA;    | |NAS+-------+RASP+-------+AP+----+INTERNET+----+DSL+-------+OPENWRT/AP| |&#xD;&#xA;    | +---+       +----+       +--+ |  +--------+  | +---+       +----------+ |&#xD;&#xA;    |                               |              |                          |&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------------------------+              +--------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LAN1 and LAN2 are currently completely separated (no VPN, ssh, etc.), each running **Syncthing** within their realm. I would be very grateful, if you can give me recommendations for replacing the following units:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Raspberry Pi**: Runs Syncthing and serves the NAS files to LAN1. It needs to be replaced with something more reliable.&#xD;&#xA; 2. **OpenWRT/AP**: This is a blue Linksys with OpenWRT, an early model with not enough disk space. It is not running Syncthing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, they should be replaced by 2 units of the **same model**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Criteria ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The criteria for the new units replacing the OpenWRT/AP and Raspberry Pi are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must: Reliable (max. 1h/week downtime, i.e. approx. 99% uptime)&#xD;&#xA; - Must: Has Ethernet and WiFi&#xD;&#xA; - Must: No SD card as storage&#xD;&#xA; - Must: Able to run Syncthing&#xD;&#xA; - Must: Able to run FreeBSD or OpenBSD&#xD;&#xA; - Must: Costs max. 100 EUR/120 USD per device&#xD;&#xA; - Optional: Max. horizontal size 14 x 11 cm, height variable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Researched Solutions ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ubiquiti airRouter: Has PoE, can be used as a client, but can't host Syncthing&#xD;&#xA; - PC Engines Alix/APU boards: Good for BSD, but too expensive&#xD;&#xA; - GL.iNet AR150: Good size, but runs OpenWRT&#xD;&#xA; - Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite: Does not have WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31877" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9680" RevisionGUID="58765ec9-0229-4b16-8342-53a426028190" CreationDate="2018-08-29T02:39:30.477" UserId="9725" Text="Syncthing-capable BSD router for max. 100 EUR/120 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31878" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9680" RevisionGUID="58765ec9-0229-4b16-8342-53a426028190" CreationDate="2018-08-29T02:39:30.477" UserId="9725" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="ce81c2c5-de84-42e2-99c8-3f7b1a5a0549" CreationDate="2018-08-29T06:47:45.740" UserId="9687" Text="I want some printer recommendation for the below Specification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) Color Laser&#xD;&#xA;    2) Multi Function - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;    3) Separate Ink Toners,&#xD;&#xA;    4) Paper Size: I want 'A3'. But I searched a lot. Laser printers not apt with 'A3' Papers. So It should apt with A4, Letter, Legal, Envelops, etc.&#xD;&#xA;    5) Two Sided Printing &#xD;&#xA;    6) 10 People shared Office Printer connected Via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;    7) Able to connect in Linux Machines.&#xD;&#xA;    8) 15 to 25 ppm,&#xD;&#xA;    9) Duplex Scan and Copy optional.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="ce81c2c5-de84-42e2-99c8-3f7b1a5a0549" CreationDate="2018-08-29T06:47:45.740" UserId="9687" Text="Laser Color Printer Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="ce81c2c5-de84-42e2-99c8-3f7b1a5a0549" CreationDate="2018-08-29T06:47:45.740" UserId="9687" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9682" RevisionGUID="740a95ee-f67e-4f1b-8a53-21ced1996b42" CreationDate="2018-08-29T11:35:48.863" UserId="9746" Text="I wish to set up a camera 500 meters from my house to send a live stream of a river over the internet. The camera and transmitter will have to be battery or solar powered and be able to transmit the video signal to my house where I have an internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31884" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9682" RevisionGUID="740a95ee-f67e-4f1b-8a53-21ced1996b42" CreationDate="2018-08-29T11:35:48.863" UserId="9746" Text="Battery powered camera and transmitter for outdoor use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31885" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9682" RevisionGUID="740a95ee-f67e-4f1b-8a53-21ced1996b42" CreationDate="2018-08-29T11:35:48.863" UserId="9746" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31889" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="4fc35582-22e5-4f28-bacd-fcafc9f9c930" CreationDate="2018-08-29T14:01:01.763" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="15520f9e-fd85-4a35-82a6-40e966cf9389" CreationDate="2018-08-29T17:11:28.987" UserId="9750" Text="I need a **USB 3.0 Express Card with 2 Ports and 34mm width** that is **compatible with Linux**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already tried „[CSL - USB 3.0 Super Speed PCMCIA Express Card Karte (34mm / 2 Port / Windows 7 + Windows 8 kompatibel) für Notebook Laptop | USB Hub intern][1]“. But it has a „Renesas Technology Corp. uPD720202 USB 3.0 Host Controller (rev 02)“ Chip and the current Linux kernel [doesn‘t support it. For more information please look here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7NV69C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1&#xD;&#xA;[2]: https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php?id=236806" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="15520f9e-fd85-4a35-82a6-40e966cf9389" CreationDate="2018-08-29T17:11:28.987" UserId="9750" Text="USB 3.0 Express Card for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="15520f9e-fd85-4a35-82a6-40e966cf9389" CreationDate="2018-08-29T17:11:28.987" UserId="9750" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31896" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="23fdf1fa-6fb1-4f1d-9ddb-d5fdd9cdbf50" CreationDate="2018-08-29T17:17:16.843" UserId="9750" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="I need a **USB 3.0 Express Card with 2 Ports and 34mm width** that is **compatible with Linux**. Additional compatibility with Windows 10 would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already tried „[CSL - USB 3.0 Super Speed PCMCIA Express Card Karte (34mm / 2 Port / Windows 7 + Windows 8 kompatibel) für Notebook Laptop | USB Hub intern][1]“. But it has a „Renesas Technology Corp. uPD720202 USB 3.0 Host Controller (rev 02)“ Chip and the current Linux kernel [doesn‘t support it. For more information please look here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7NV69C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1&#xD;&#xA;[2]: https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php?id=236806" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9655" RevisionGUID="4e3e73c6-7961-445d-a46b-983bb9c9db39" CreationDate="2018-08-29T18:28:46.177" UserId="1410" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="I have found a few old Kickstart projects, such as [this](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/geekroo/pipeye-an-advanced-battery-hat-to-power-your-raspb/posts/1323876), which consist of a case (not on-topic), containing a Real Time Clock and battery power for the Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some have a few extra features, such as a display, extra USB ports, or solar power panel, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of anything with at least the capabilities of the referenced project? (or even where I can buy one of those)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="6339c944-6ca5-4a03-a679-ba6bc7de7181" CreationDate="2018-08-29T21:53:37.843" UserId="9751" Text="I want to buy a computer where i can run more than 3 Hyper-V at a time. One choice I have is to buy some new core i7 it will cost me around US$800/1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But an alternate option is to buy used HP Z620 Workstation at same price US$800/1000 (not sure these are 2012/13 models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has two E5-2660 2.2GHz V1 processors installed (total 16 core) 64 GB ECC Ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm at point where i could not understand which system can give better performance, I did not mention details about i7 as i will go for whatever standard PC is available as new workstation is out of budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31901" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="6339c944-6ca5-4a03-a679-ba6bc7de7181" CreationDate="2018-08-29T21:53:37.843" UserId="9751" Text="Need help to buy a computer for VM, i7 vs E5-2660 V1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31902" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="6339c944-6ca5-4a03-a679-ba6bc7de7181" CreationDate="2018-08-29T21:53:37.843" UserId="9751" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31906" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="55f201a9-2a42-4edc-a137-984abd91a85a" CreationDate="2018-08-30T01:48:55.390" UserId="60" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31916" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="959e25ec-b1bf-402f-ae86-7df3d378f21a" CreationDate="2018-08-30T03:02:33.883" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31917" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9687" RevisionGUID="77701545-f435-4d02-8e2d-64f3a42b814c" CreationDate="2018-08-30T08:19:14.280" UserId="9754" Text="I will soon own a laptop that I will need to use for work. I currently own a desktop which I use for my personal stuff, whose set-up I love (two monitors, my old mechanical keyboard, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use that same set-up for work so that I don't need to work on a tiny screen with a tiny keyboard. However, it'd be painful to switch from my desktop to my laptop and back every day by disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to know what hardware set-up I could use to achieve a way of easily transitioning my peripherals from one machine to the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The connections I would need to switch are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2x BenQ GW2255 21.5-Inch LED Monitor (I am open to buying newer ones).&#xD;&#xA; - 1x USB keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - 1x USB mouse&#xD;&#xA; - 1x ethernet connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has been suggested to me to connect the keyboard and mouse to the monitors if possible, so that only the monitors need to be switched somehow, I leave this here in case it's useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31918" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9687" RevisionGUID="77701545-f435-4d02-8e2d-64f3a42b814c" CreationDate="2018-08-30T08:19:14.280" UserId="9754" Text="Set-up to quickly move from desktop to laptop and back" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31919" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9687" RevisionGUID="77701545-f435-4d02-8e2d-64f3a42b814c" CreationDate="2018-08-30T08:19:14.280" UserId="9754" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31923" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="ba3a5c44-b2f3-43ef-93b2-b46b7db1cdfa" CreationDate="2018-08-30T13:02:42.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31924" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="f552b5ef-48c8-49a2-aa04-985ba7d11e0c" CreationDate="2018-08-30T21:20:14.380" UserId="9751" Comment="added 231 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a computer where i can run more than 3 Hyper-V at a time. One choice I have is to buy some new core i7 it will cost me around US$800/1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using of Hyper-V&#xD;&#xA;- Windows Server 2012 with ADFS services&#xD;&#xA;- Windows Server 2012 Sharepoint 2013/16&#xD;&#xA;- Windows Server 2012 MS SQL Server 2012&#xD;&#xA;- Windows Server 2012 ASP.Net Application&#xD;&#xA;- Windows 10 As workstation (could be 2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But an alternate option is to buy used HP Z620 Workstation at same price US$800/1000 (not sure these are 2012/13 models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has two E5-2660 2.2GHz V1 processors installed (total 16 core) 64 GB ECC Ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm at point where i could not understand which system can give better performance, I did not mention details about i7 as i will go for whatever standard PC is available as new workstation is out of budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31925" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="cfb4a82f-f68b-4145-955c-e773be47b490" CreationDate="2018-08-30T21:25:29.850" UserId="9751" Comment="Updated VM usage info" Text="I want to buy a computer where i can run more than 3 Hyper-V at a time. One choice I have is to buy some new core i7 it will cost me around US$800/1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage of Hyper-V&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Windows Server 2012 with ADFS services &#xD;&#xA;2. Windows Server 2012 Sharepoint 2013/16 &#xD;&#xA;3. Windows Server 2012 MS SQL Server 2012 &#xD;&#xA;4. Windows Server 2012 ASP.Net Application (Optional)&#xD;&#xA;5. Windows 10 As workstation (could be 2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But an alternate option is to buy used HP Z620 Workstation at same price US$800/1000 (not sure these are 2012/13 models)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has two E5-2660 2.2GHz V1 processors installed (total 16 core) 64 GB ECC Ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm at point where i could not understand which system can give better performance, I did not mention details about i7 as i will go for whatever standard PC is available as new workstation is out of budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31929" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="2b53edc8-d3ba-4715-a206-b7b18512a354" CreationDate="2018-08-31T00:02:15.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31930" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="3d2b76fc-5658-4bee-b49e-5980f5e108f1" CreationDate="2018-08-31T01:01:47.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31931" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="ac124c1e-3e3a-4565-abfd-46ffa4b822f2" CreationDate="2018-08-31T02:00:35.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31933" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="04ff9b7e-a6f2-4f0e-9049-ee6b37a9b140" CreationDate="2018-08-31T07:00:45.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31934" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9682" RevisionGUID="a0d47962-0524-4986-b911-642402d17bc9" CreationDate="2018-08-31T07:56:38.560" UserId="9746" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I wish to set up a camera 500 meters from my house to send a live stream of a river over the internet. The camera and transmitter will have to be battery or solar powered and be able to transmit the video signal to my house where I have an internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for HW that will work in Norway are appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9691" RevisionGUID="964d12f8-c86f-42cf-b70e-90132e98ac2f" CreationDate="2018-08-31T09:49:30.060" UserId="9754" Text="One option is to buy a [USB 3.0 docking station][1]. Switching all your peripherals would then only require unplugging a USB cable and plugging it to the other machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is very convenient, although don't expect it to support 4K resolution, and since the frames are compressed for speed it adds a bit of load to the CPU and does not make use of your machine's GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_23?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=usb%203.0%20docking%20station%20dual%20monitor&amp;sprefix=usb%203.0%20docking%20station%2Caps%2C345&amp;crid=SCAE73BPOZWF&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ausb%203.0%20docking%20station%20dual%20monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9682" RevisionGUID="fb96284f-7d1a-4839-b2d2-f291e7b1e8a7" CreationDate="2018-08-31T10:22:26.457" UserId="9746" Comment="deleted 32 characters in body" Text="I wish to set up a camera 500 meters from my house to send a live stream of a river over the internet. The camera and transmitter will have to be battery or solar powered and be able to transmit the video signal to my house where I have an internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations are appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31940" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9686" RevisionGUID="c5b463e8-2e9d-4283-b5e8-a66bc6d527b3" CreationDate="2018-08-31T14:35:34.447" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31943" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="0b2272c2-96c7-4660-aa05-cd285f2a970f" CreationDate="2018-08-31T22:01:17.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31947" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="dc4db749-50a1-4c63-9133-b93da53f2b21" CreationDate="2018-09-01T03:01:53.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31949" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="7f5e5be8-7004-4175-9a84-a9163d88c135" CreationDate="2018-09-01T04:01:00.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9692" RevisionGUID="a5fcd274-2e07-42ca-871a-bdfeede6a369" CreationDate="2018-09-01T11:49:20.673" UserId="9750" Text="I found this: [USB 3.0 ExpressCard 34MM for GNU / Linux (TPE-USB3EXCD)][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's said to be compatible with Windows XP / Vista / 2000 / 7 / 8 and most recent linux distributions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't buyed and tested it yet, however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/usb-30-expresscard-34mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31954" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="a5d926c2-eb21-422e-ae9b-d43c6311b834" CreationDate="2018-09-01T16:01:49.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31955" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7147" RevisionGUID="6841ecf5-e85f-4957-b6ee-5a889ff733ad" CreationDate="2018-09-01T21:01:24.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31956" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7381" RevisionGUID="22af2c49-e2ba-4b09-9ea2-9042a5306ebd" CreationDate="2018-09-02T01:02:17.833" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31958" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="9694" RevisionGUID="176772f2-b2b5-4706-8cee-41705592d6a5" CreationDate="2018-09-02T12:09:38.867" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/201083/bluetooth-adapter-for-my-3-5mm-headset" />
  <row Id="31959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9694" RevisionGUID="2da51204-2401-4c1e-97f8-9616bd9887e7" CreationDate="2018-09-01T19:38:42.797" UserId="9776" UserDisplayName="user1129682" Text="Disclaimer: There is a high chance that this question is off topic, but I don't know a better place to ask.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to buy a new phone and all the phones I may like don't have a 3.5mm jack for my headset, that I want to keep using. For that end I would need a bluetooth adater that I can connect my headset to and the adapter would connect to my phone via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That adapter would have to receive audio from my phone and send mic and command signals simultaneously. Does anybody know about such a device? The best i could find was a device with its own command buttons and its own builtin mic. But I want to use the buttons on my headset and the mic on my headset. There is a bunch of Bluetooth adapters available but they can only send or receive audio. I need a device that lets me use my old headset as if it was a Bluetooth headset. Is there such a device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9694" RevisionGUID="2da51204-2401-4c1e-97f8-9616bd9887e7" CreationDate="2018-09-01T19:38:42.797" UserId="9776" UserDisplayName="user1129682" Text="Bluetooth adapter for my 3.5mm headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9694" RevisionGUID="2da51204-2401-4c1e-97f8-9616bd9887e7" CreationDate="2018-09-01T19:38:42.797" UserId="9776" UserDisplayName="user1129682" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31968" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="b372d7e8-354f-4b29-adb3-b6bae5d6acd9" CreationDate="2018-09-03T03:01:39.920" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31969" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="81f9ec53-bf02-43ee-a558-d7e73df057dc" CreationDate="2018-09-03T04:01:52.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31970" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="a4723d7f-8be1-46de-a8c8-1640f99e20e2" CreationDate="2018-09-03T06:01:31.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9694" RevisionGUID="7454e477-e486-43a0-9668-858a02c49e9d" CreationDate="2018-09-03T08:53:49.473" UserId="9776" Comment="deleted 111 characters in body" Text="I need to buy a new phone and all the phones I may like don't have a 3.5mm jack for my headset, that I want to keep using. For that end I would need a bluetooth adater that I can connect my headset to and the adapter would connect to my phone via Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That adapter would have to receive audio from my phone and send mic and command signals simultaneously. Does anybody know about such a device? The best i could find was a device with its own command buttons and its own builtin mic. But I want to use the buttons on my headset and the mic on my headset. There is a bunch of Bluetooth adapters available but they can only send or receive audio. I need a device that lets me use my old headset as if it was a Bluetooth headset. Is there such a device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31972" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="855b0f1d-60a8-46ff-8710-f09f56dbc9bc" CreationDate="2018-09-03T11:01:27.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31973" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9692" RevisionGUID="ac621916-f33d-4544-bfef-cb8bd31af6d8" CreationDate="2018-09-03T13:10:28.380" UserId="9750" Comment="Thankful for more recs " Text="I found this: [USB 3.0 ExpressCard 34MM for GNU / Linux (TPE-USB3EXCD)][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's said to be compatible with Windows XP / Vista / 2000 / 7 / 8 and most recent linux distributions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't buyed and tested it yet, however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I‘m thankful for more recommendations, however !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/usb-30-expresscard-34mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31975" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="5a91a08c-1ae2-4a12-89ff-3b72c096725a" CreationDate="2018-09-04T00:00:43.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31982" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9699" RevisionGUID="28fc5f2a-e03e-4360-a0a1-c59ed8b70f04" CreationDate="2018-09-04T09:38:33.573" UserId="9780" Text="Recommended computer for PUBG (budget $900)；&#xD;&#xA;I hope the price performance is high.&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much for your advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31983" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9699" RevisionGUID="28fc5f2a-e03e-4360-a0a1-c59ed8b70f04" CreationDate="2018-09-04T09:38:33.573" UserId="9780" Text="Recommended computer for PUBG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31984" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9699" RevisionGUID="28fc5f2a-e03e-4360-a0a1-c59ed8b70f04" CreationDate="2018-09-04T09:38:33.573" UserId="9780" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31985" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8442" RevisionGUID="39e85f06-b5d6-43c0-a931-ac55601743e8" CreationDate="2018-09-04T11:01:48.093" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31990" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="3126c19e-1fc0-4f27-b22a-7398ffcb3f7c" CreationDate="2018-09-04T17:17:00.943" UserId="465" Comment="fix formatting, partial copyedit" Text="I want some printer recommendation for the below specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Color Laser&#xD;&#xA;2. Multi Function - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;3. Separate Ink Toners&#xD;&#xA;4. Paper Size: I want 'A3'. But I searched a lot. Laser printers not apt with 'A3' Papers. So it should apt with A4, Letter, Legal, Envelops, etc.&#xD;&#xA;5. Two Sided Printing &#xD;&#xA;6. 10 People shared Office Printer connected via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;7. Able to connect to Linux Machines.&#xD;&#xA;8. 15 to 25 ppm.&#xD;&#xA;9. Duplex Scan and Copy optional.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31991" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="3126c19e-1fc0-4f27-b22a-7398ffcb3f7c" CreationDate="2018-09-04T17:17:00.943" Comment="Proposed by 465 approved by 60 edit id of 735" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31993" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="6742" RevisionGUID="a590fa9f-8ac1-4fea-b981-ee937b824947" CreationDate="2018-09-04T18:10:25.093" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="31994" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="76081d49-5a5d-49b0-99f8-891e15e793e9" CreationDate="2018-09-04T19:02:24.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31995" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="952d9832-19a3-4046-ae2c-3e81d9c2f8a1" CreationDate="2018-09-05T01:00:52.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="31996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9701" RevisionGUID="abe9137c-9395-46fe-bfe4-da7e75857c7b" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:32:45.200" UserId="3813" Text="I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all of the Chromebooks on Amazon have 4GB RAM, but some have as much as 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing my options on Amazon, I think my priorities are (in order):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Price&#xD;&#xA; - Reviews (reliability)&#xD;&#xA; - Larger screen (14&quot; is good, 15.6&quot; is better)&#xD;&#xA; - Camera quality&#xD;&#xA; - Processing speed and power&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I likely to actually experience significantly better performance with more RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For comparison, here are two Chromebooks with dramatically different sticker prices (obviously for more reasons than just RAM):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Pixlebook with 16GB RAM](https://www.amazon.com/Google-Pixelbook-i7-RAM-512/dp/B075JLPLBL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536114331&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Google+Pixelbook+%28i7%2C+16+GB+RAM%2C+512+GB%29&amp;dpID=51TxM4dNYhL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer with 4GB RAM](https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Chromebook-CB515-1HT-P39B-Pentium-Storage/dp/B076V3YMRY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536114488&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=acer+chromebook+touchscreen+15.6&amp;dpID=51hv2R3l1yL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9701" RevisionGUID="abe9137c-9395-46fe-bfe4-da7e75857c7b" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:32:45.200" UserId="3813" Text="What benefit would I see with more than 4GB RAM in a Chromebook?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9701" RevisionGUID="abe9137c-9395-46fe-bfe4-da7e75857c7b" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:32:45.200" UserId="3813" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31999" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9702" RevisionGUID="b6306a93-9ec0-4634-9871-353cdafa1954" CreationDate="2018-09-05T09:32:01.567" UserId="1329" Text="I want to mention that there are also models with 8GB of RAM and more options to choose from in the price range between $350 to $1500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindle Fire with keyboard, that pretty much is how I use my Asus C302 and I also think of it as: »nah, it's not running anything fancy.« But actually it can amount to quite a lot and there is not much left of 4GB RAM even though I usually use it with GalliumOS and Firefox which is a bit more aggressive with memory management (you should stick with Chrome OS though!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the point of view that a Chromebook is a piece of computer hardware with a keyboard and a 10-15 inch screen that runs a webbrowser to display websites it may look like 4GB are sufficient. At the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best way to find out if 4GB is enough for you would be open **Chrome's Taskmanager** during your usual desktop browsing and check how much Chrome consumes. Some extensions also consume additional RAM, websites tend to grow and be designed more responsive, also people usually have several tabs open or pinned. 4GB is okay for now but on top of my head knowing the browsing habits of people around me and my own and that a Chromebook may well last 5 years or more while being regularly updated with security updates and new features(!), I'd recommend to spend a bit more money to get an 8GB model at least.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another point of view I have watched 2GB Chromebooks and HDMi sticks suffer under the load of poorly written iframe Grafana &amp; Kibana madness for months. You don't want to run out of RAM if it can be avoided.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chromebooks also feature Android Apps and Linux apps (Crostini). It is still not a full fledged desktop experience like a Mac or Windows computer but you certainly have the possibility to make use of more than 4GB RAM now or in the future. Some people may argue that you could close some rather unimportant tabs or that the browser should manage background tabs better but I don't think that is a good solution as you may want to use a split view to view more pages at the same time, work with multiple monitors (small portable monitors exist) or just have the information ready when you need it (and no network access).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit is to not run out of RAM, which results in significant system slow downs. Also typically RAM cannot be upgraded on Chromebooks. I'd give the same advice for Chromebooks as I'd give for any laptop that you are going to use the next couple of years: **4GB RAM is not enough, get 8GB and have peace of mind.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9702" RevisionGUID="1b181b05-9849-4f8f-bbc6-6d1ab9079aac" CreationDate="2018-09-05T09:57:53.517" UserId="1329" Comment="added 260 characters in body" Text="I want to mention that there are also models with 8GB of RAM and more options to choose from in the price range between $350 to $1500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindle Fire with keyboard, that pretty much is how I use my Asus C302 and I also think of it as: »nah, it's not running anything fancy.« But actually it can amount to quite a lot and there is not much left of 4GB RAM even though I usually use it with GalliumOS and Firefox which is a bit more aggressive with memory management (you should stick with Chrome OS though!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: on second thought, I cannot imagine making good use of more than 8GB with your usage patterns at the moment. I had a laptop with 16GB for two years, not used for gaming or hosting more than one virtual machine, RAM was just rather cheap at that time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the point of view that a Chromebook is a piece of computer hardware with a keyboard and a 10-15 inch screen that runs a webbrowser to display websites it may look like 4GB are sufficient. At the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best way to find out if 4GB is enough for you would be open **Chrome's Taskmanager** during your usual desktop browsing and check how much Chrome consumes. Some extensions also consume additional RAM, websites tend to grow and be designed more responsive, also people usually have several tabs open or pinned. 4GB is okay for now but on top of my head knowing the browsing habits of people around me and my own and that a Chromebook may well last 5 years or more while being regularly updated with security updates and new features(!), I'd recommend to spend a bit more money to get an 8GB model at least.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another point of view I have watched 2GB Chromebooks and HDMi sticks suffer under the load of poorly written iframe Grafana &amp; Kibana madness for months. You don't want to run out of RAM if it can be avoided.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chromebooks also feature Android Apps and Linux apps (Crostini). It is still not a full fledged desktop experience like a Mac or Windows computer but you certainly have the possibility to make use of more than 4GB RAM now or in the future. Some people may argue that you could close some rather unimportant tabs or that the browser should manage background tabs better but I don't think that is a good solution as you may want to use a split view to view more pages at the same time, work with multiple monitors (small portable monitors exist) or just have the information ready when you need it (and no network access).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit is to not run out of RAM, which results in significant system slow downs. Also typically RAM cannot be upgraded on Chromebooks. I'd give the same advice for Chromebooks as I'd give for any laptop that you are going to use the next couple of years: **4GB RAM is not enough, get 8GB and have peace of mind.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9703" RevisionGUID="a19b81b7-152d-462a-aa87-bb61c0216cd7" CreationDate="2018-09-05T11:03:43.397" UserId="9782" Text="The printer Sharp MX-5140N has all your mentioned specifications. &#xA;&#xA;BUT: it is an printer for big offices, if you look for a printer at home, this is not for you. &#xA;&#xA;Additionally it might be best, if you rent this printer with a SLA.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32005" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="7469f7b9-e094-4b60-aa9a-5b7442273874" CreationDate="2018-09-05T11:38:20.067" UserId="9687" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="I want some printer recommendation for the below specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1. Color Laser&#xD;&#xA;    2. Multi Function - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;    3. Separate Ink Toners&#xD;&#xA;    4. Paper Size: I want 'A3'. But I searched a lot. Laser printers not apt with 'A3' Papers. So it should apt with A4, Letter, Legal, Envelops, etc.&#xD;&#xA;    5. Two Sided Printing &#xD;&#xA;    6. 10 People shared Office Printer connected via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;    7. Able to connect to Linux Machines.&#xD;&#xA;    8. 15 to 25 ppm.&#xD;&#xA;    9. Duplex Scan and Copy optional.&#xD;&#xA;    10. Budget only before $1000. If A3 is not fit with $1000 printer, then Letter and Legal could be the max paper size." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32006" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1347" RevisionGUID="4c7e74f7-267d-4a72-8710-dbe15bf1302c" CreationDate="2018-09-05T17:01:26.123" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9705" RevisionGUID="9289dc0c-7f67-45a7-80ef-f2a4acc6b0f3" CreationDate="2018-09-05T23:49:06.703" UserId="9788" Text="I'm trying to build a device made up of several other devices all connected using USB A cables. The amount of room on the cables taken up by the &quot;human sized&quot; ends requires a larger enclosure than I want to use. Other than purchasing raw USB connectors and soldering them myself, where can I purchase cables with minimal ends?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've tried the google approach, Mouser, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32008" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9705" RevisionGUID="9289dc0c-7f67-45a7-80ef-f2a4acc6b0f3" CreationDate="2018-09-05T23:49:06.703" UserId="9788" Text="Where to purchase USB cables without &quot;human sized&quot; ends" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32009" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9705" RevisionGUID="9289dc0c-7f67-45a7-80ef-f2a4acc6b0f3" CreationDate="2018-09-05T23:49:06.703" UserId="9788" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32010" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9706" RevisionGUID="dc26c837-24a8-4c62-9e60-19dec849f1fa" CreationDate="2018-09-06T00:55:53.003" UserId="9789" Text="I'm looking for a Direct Attached Storage solution that can accept a minimum of 12x SATA 2.5in HDDs and can connect to the host raid controller's sff-8088 port. I'm not looking for actual listings or compatibility from here, I just need a model that I can look for myself. If you happen to know for some crazy reason that it is compatible with an IBM x3650 please do come forwards, but don't go looking for that stuff. I'll be back if I find one myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32011" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9706" RevisionGUID="dc26c837-24a8-4c62-9e60-19dec849f1fa" CreationDate="2018-09-06T00:55:53.003" UserId="9789" Text="Looking for a Direct Attached Storage solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32012" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9706" RevisionGUID="dc26c837-24a8-4c62-9e60-19dec849f1fa" CreationDate="2018-09-06T00:55:53.003" UserId="9789" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9707" RevisionGUID="c133377b-d4d9-4b47-8677-d34523310979" CreationDate="2018-09-06T03:27:55.197" UserId="9780" Text="CPU:AMD R5 2600X&#xD;&#xA;motherboard:MSI-MORTAR B450&#xD;&#xA;VC:MSI-R580 8g&#xD;&#xA;SSD:PLEXTOR M9PeGn 512g&#xD;&#xA;HDD:SEAGATE 1T&#xD;&#xA;RAM:CORSAIR 3000 8G*2&#xD;&#xA;power:CoolerMaster GX550&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9708" RevisionGUID="007f95c4-0f97-4d67-ab5f-bfa35c67d918" CreationDate="2018-09-06T09:52:59.747" UserId="6089" Text="One option you have would be to use a straight circuit board with appropriate traces, if the minimalistic approach is your objective. I have what is described on [Gearbest][1] as a USB flashlight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![USB Flashlight][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a 1.92 mm thick piece of circuit board that fits well into the USB port of my powerbank. The price for five is US$1.13 from gearbest. This is one example. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional searching has discovered a link to a site called [eLabBay][3] which sells prototype boards that are a bit more bulky than the USB flashlight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![prototype usb board][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would be able to ignore the header pins and cut away the wings to further reduce the profile, if needed. At bit more expensive at US$6.48, but it's also just another example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are circuit board services which will produce boards from your design. In larger quantities, I'd expect the prices would be better than this last one, but requires that you create a design. I did a quick search for &quot;pcb service&quot; and the first return showed ten pieces for five dollars and that was only one entry. There may be others at lower prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, all of this does require that you perform the soldering, but it's not as finicky as doing so with typically stock small gauge USB wire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_453059.html?wid=1433363&amp;currency=USD&amp;vip=15396729&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpPyQwYqm3QIVxbjACh2xqAt5EAQYAyABEgLsKfD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJefR.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://elabbay.myshopify.com/products/usb-am-bo-v1a-usb2-0-type-a-male-plug-breakout-board-elabguy&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnnrY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32016" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="2f260fd3-7b04-494d-a0a9-9b58e7c0b047" CreationDate="2018-09-06T16:02:17.803" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32017" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="425cd2ac-2064-4c8e-9c81-9b5b562b672e" CreationDate="2018-09-06T17:06:49.060" UserId="4136" Comment="title shouldn't use exclamation mark or CAPITALIZED words, plus the word &quot;standalone&quot; was missing and is important" Text="USB hub with standalone charging support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32018" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="425cd2ac-2064-4c8e-9c81-9b5b562b672e" CreationDate="2018-09-06T17:06:49.060" Comment="Proposed by 4136 approved by 60 edit id of 736" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32023" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="7193e7da-5849-4b35-8fb2-1232d5980a28" CreationDate="2018-09-06T20:01:20.973" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32024" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="233f1644-38a8-43b2-8245-17905a4671ef" CreationDate="2018-09-07T02:01:10.857" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32026" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8484" RevisionGUID="65a27baa-4995-4f92-b0b0-7ff97a8a7111" CreationDate="2018-09-07T06:43:02.897" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting" Text="I bought an ultra-book *Asus UX410UQ-GV068T* for coding and graphism.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** Intel Core i7 7500U 2.7Ghz&#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** Geforce GTX 400MX 2GB Vram&#xD;&#xA; - **SCREEN:** 14&quot; Led screen Full Hd&#xD;&#xA; - **DATA:** SSD 128go + HDD 500go&#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 8Go DDR4 2133mhz (+ i added 8go - 123€)&#xD;&#xA; - **MORE:** 1x Usb3, 2x Usb2, Hdmi port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beautiful design (silver), comfortable screen (it's a 13&quot; case with a 14&quot; screen with thin border) and beautiful color, backlit keyboard, battery 8 hours, large touchpad, ergonomic and pro. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Photoshop, Illustrator, Brackets and tons of tabs on chrome with music at the same time and the computer works like a charm. Linux compatible (useful with 2 Disks). CUDA 9. I even succeed to play Battlefield 1 on it (with good framerate on mid/low settings).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personnaly, i searched for a long and didn't found the half for 1069€ (sales price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------&#xD;&#xA;If you want a notebook, something more powerful and not so expensive, you should look for [Gigabyte laptops][1] or [Msi laptops][2], there are both specialized in laptops for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.msi.com/Laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32027" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8484" RevisionGUID="65a27baa-4995-4f92-b0b0-7ff97a8a7111" CreationDate="2018-09-07T06:43:02.897" Comment="Proposed by 1804 approved by 7459 edit id of 738" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32034" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="2cae55a7-ec38-4634-b0a7-540feaefcc23" CreationDate="2018-09-07T17:16:46.653" UserId="5792" Comment="edited title" Text="A good mechanical keyboard for professional programing on Mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32038" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="2111db9f-3b29-478e-b200-fe79b51a1091" CreationDate="2018-09-07T19:50:05.950" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting, fixed grammar." Text="I want some printer recommendation for the below specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Color Laser&#xD;&#xA; 2. Multifunction - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA; 3. Separate Ink Toners&#xD;&#xA; 4. Paper Size: I want 'A3'. But I searched a lot. Laser printers not apt with 'A3' Papers. So it should apt with A4, Letter, Legal, Envelopes, etc.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Two Sided Printing &#xD;&#xA; 6. 10 People shared Office Printer connected via Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Able to connect to Linux Machines.&#xD;&#xA; 8. 15 to 25 ppm.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Duplex Scan and Copy optional.&#xD;&#xA; 10. Budget only before $1000. If A3 is not fit with $1000 printer, then Letter and Legal could be the max paper size." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32039" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="2111db9f-3b29-478e-b200-fe79b51a1091" CreationDate="2018-09-07T19:50:05.950" Comment="Proposed by 1804 approved by 60 edit id of 737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32040" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="9712" RevisionGUID="e6b595a5-9a5b-48a1-b8a4-0eddc606585d" CreationDate="2018-09-07T20:22:04.383" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/335847/wireless-headset-quality" />
  <row Id="32041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9712" RevisionGUID="188bc5fb-e49a-4f5f-a57a-b0cb1632104b" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:15:37.577" UserId="9796" UserDisplayName="bheussler" Text="I have a set of [bluetooth earbuds][1] and I have been using them with my MacBook running High Sierra.  I use them for Slack calls and the quality basically sounds like I'm talking on my phone.  I understand Apple's official advice is to switch to the internal microphone, but that defeats the purpose.  I was wondering if there was a specific wireless headset that will give me the same quality as a pair of dumb wired earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to add that I did a decent amount of investigation on my own.  I understand The driver macOS uses is SBC when playing just audio and SCO when using the Handsfree profile.  I've even been able to enable AAC when playing audio, but none of this has helped me.  I've basically just accepted the fact that the Bluetooth driver that macOS uses for the Handsfree profile is terrible quality and there is nothing I can do about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just want to know if there is a wireless headset that will give me the same quality as wired earbuds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ticpods-free-most-interactive-wireless-earbuds#/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9712" RevisionGUID="188bc5fb-e49a-4f5f-a57a-b0cb1632104b" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:15:37.577" UserId="9796" UserDisplayName="bheussler" Text="Wireless Headset Quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9712" RevisionGUID="188bc5fb-e49a-4f5f-a57a-b0cb1632104b" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:15:37.577" UserId="9796" UserDisplayName="bheussler" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32044" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="845976b7-bc7f-4492-9b36-e2180e09db4a" CreationDate="2018-09-08T00:00:49.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32055" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9714" RevisionGUID="88a995c4-2137-4741-80b8-9fa2a3b69991" CreationDate="2018-09-08T12:17:26.553" UserId="9799" Text="You can't, at least not on macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's no high quality duplex audio Bluetooth profile, maximum what you can get is 16 kHz duplex SBC (mSBC, &quot;Wideband speech&quot;). It's better than SCO (8 kHz), but not dramatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For some reason, Bluetooth SIG hasn't been interested in implementing high quality duplex audio since 2003. The only solution is available from Cambridge Silicon Radio (now Qualcomm), the FastStream pseudo codec, which in fact is SBC with backchannel A2DP hack. It provides fullband audio and wideband speech, but the headphones with FastStream support are very rare, and it would probably work only on Windows with CSRHarmony Bluetooth driver." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32057" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9716" RevisionGUID="438bedfb-4b7d-4360-a2cf-5f76dda8f0f9" CreationDate="2018-09-08T15:37:12.277" UserId="819" Text="Here are a few such devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Mirabox Projection Gateway](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDMI-VGA-Wireless-Mirroring-Prejection-Gateway-For-Airplay-Miracast-Windows-Widi-Wifi-Presentation-Mirrorlink-Wireless-Mirroring/32812513019.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Monoprice Blackbird 4K 4x4 HDMI Matrix Extender with 4 Receivers, PoC, IR, EDID](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&amp;cp_id=10105&amp;cs_id=1011012&amp;p_id=21905&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Monoprice BitPath AV 4K HDMI Wireless Transmitter &amp; Receiver Kit, 200m](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&amp;cp_id=10105&amp;cs_id=1011012&amp;p_id=16223&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9290" RevisionGUID="c0a1cf91-47e9-4317-8f64-75a2db89506a" CreationDate="2018-09-08T15:51:33.553" UserId="819" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="Here are a couple of external USB CD drives within the price range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [2017 2016 Ultra Thin External USB 2.0 CD ROM CD Driver CD/DVD Optical Driver Portable CD Driver For PC Laptop-in Optical Drives from Computer &amp; Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Ultra-Thin-External-USB-2-0-CD-ROM-CD-Driver-CD-DVD-Optical-Driver-Portable/32653762903.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG Super Multi Portable DVD Rewriter with M-Disc 328005 - Micro Center (UPC: 058231309133)](http://www.microcenter.com/product/485814/Super_Multi_Portable_DVD_Rewriter_with_M-Disc)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="cde9d1fa-2583-42fe-a385-ad6aaaabe97d" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:02:34.097" UserId="9800" Text="I'm not sure if this is the right site to be posting this question, however out of them all from what I could see, this was the one that stuck out most.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm a self learner, and am currently learning (well trying too) about TCP packets with payloads.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I did some research and from what I have learnt, security cameras, smart tv's and well any hardware really that can be connected to, can have packets sent to them that can perform certain tasks, eg a certain packet with the correct header and payload can turn a tv off, change the channel and so on.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, is there a certain device eg camera, tv and so on, that I can buy that can help me learn more about this topic, if someone could lead the way and point me in the direction of a device that has such a thing and even with documentation of the tcp diagram, that would help me out a lot, I'm using C#&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;If this is the wrong site to be posting this question, please let me know so I can go to the correct StackExchange site, Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32060" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="cde9d1fa-2583-42fe-a385-ad6aaaabe97d" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:02:34.097" UserId="9800" Text="Best Device For Learning About Sending TCP Packets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32061" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="cde9d1fa-2583-42fe-a385-ad6aaaabe97d" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:02:34.097" UserId="9800" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9718" RevisionGUID="c7758e6a-d24e-46d6-8f25-e5f8e378246f" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:29:55.783" UserId="9801" Text="I'm a heavy laptop users, who takes her laptop everywhere everyday. That means, loads of little bumps, some drops of a drink are not avoidable. Children could lay their little dirty fingers on it or drop it, but mostly they are well-behaved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think I'll need to go so far as to buying a ruggerized laptop. I don't work in a mine or something like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My present computer is an Asus B-Series, and I am happy with it lasting for 7+ years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about something like Lenovo Thinkpad T-series or another Asus, but I'm want to contemplate all options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this MIL-SPECS of Lenovo a reliable measure of sturdiness? If yes, what other laptops meet it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In summary, I need resilient, battery 8+ hours, and a good keyboard, 14'' screen. Since I will last, it could be above $1,000. I also would like it to last more than 5+ years. Maybe I'll be exchanging the battery every couple of years. Performance is not a big issue. No need for multimedia, fancy games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No Macs, don't care about thin, pretty, lots of colors." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32063" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9718" RevisionGUID="c7758e6a-d24e-46d6-8f25-e5f8e378246f" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:29:55.783" UserId="9801" Text="Sturdy laptops for every day use (not ruggerized)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32064" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9718" RevisionGUID="c7758e6a-d24e-46d6-8f25-e5f8e378246f" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:29:55.783" UserId="9801" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9719" RevisionGUID="b11c0a8c-43d3-4357-b3aa-050c44364c54" CreationDate="2018-09-08T18:54:48.590" UserId="1873" Text="I would start with software - [Wireshark][1] works on both Windows and Linux and lets you see all the packets reaching your computer. It's free.&#xA;&#xA;Also read about [magic packets][2] - wake on LAN has nothing to do with TCP. In fact it does not even use IP!&#xA;&#xA;Going further - some better routers, such as the [MikroTik Hex][3] allow you to sniff all the traffic going through them.&#xA;&#xA;As for a TV or an IP camera which has open documentation for it's custom TCP protocols - I wouldn't count on the availability of such a device.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.wireshark.org&#xA;  [2]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN&#xA;  [3]: https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32066" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="c2b4362b-8496-4503-8042-0c70b162d44f" CreationDate="2018-09-09T00:01:55.863" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32067" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="52c00091-6700-41c6-bbc1-b42f6be524eb" CreationDate="2018-09-09T02:00:44.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9720" RevisionGUID="2c6589ab-23b5-46db-b585-a497c92928ae" CreationDate="2018-09-09T10:15:49.030" UserId="1410" Text="I am a software developer, who's Core I7 laptop suddenly died, and I urgently need a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - screen, at least 17&quot; (I like to view code &amp; documentation side by side)&#xD;&#xA; - Core i7, or better (despite the following, I do need a reasonable response speed)&#xD;&#xA; - I do ***not*** need fancy graphics; I don't do image manipulation or on-line gaming&#xD;&#xA; - minimum 16gB RAM, but I would love 32gB if it didn't add too much $$$&#xD;&#xA; - I don't care about battery life, as it is tethered 99% of the time&#xD;&#xA; - low spec on hard drive is fine, as I can provide my own 2tB drive &amp; 1tB SSD from the one that just died&#xD;&#xA; - unless the main HD is &gt; 2gB&#xD;&#xA; - slight presence for UK keyboard, although I am equally at home with German and US keyboards (in the worst case, I can replace and/or stick on new keycaps (I have done this before :-))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main criterion is price (I am currently on contract in the UK, although that might change again soon). I can wait a few days for shipping, but the laptop is my breadwinner, actual &quot;shipping by ship&quot;, just to save a few bucks, is out of the question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Alternatively](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6523/is-there-such-a-thing-as-a-schleptop-small-portable-desktop-ish)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32069" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9720" RevisionGUID="2c6589ab-23b5-46db-b585-a497c92928ae" CreationDate="2018-09-09T10:15:49.030" UserId="1410" Text="Large screen laptop for software developer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32070" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9720" RevisionGUID="2c6589ab-23b5-46db-b585-a497c92928ae" CreationDate="2018-09-09T10:15:49.030" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32071" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6523" RevisionGUID="1e422dad-a664-47e4-83d4-bbb750af02d3" CreationDate="2018-09-09T10:17:13.980" UserId="1410" Comment="added 178 characters in body" Text="I always buy laptops, because I (very rarely) need to work in different locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly because I prefer computing from my lap, rather than a desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to be able to add multiple 3.5&quot; harddrives and lots of RAM. I currently have 1tB + 2tB and 16gB. I want much more &amp; since desktop drives &amp; RAM are cheaper, I think that I am looking for a slimline desktop, which I can sit in my lap(!) - but what about a screen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some very expensive laptops which do that, but they are far out of my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe a small, thin desktop? So long as I can squeeze in a few 3.5&quot; drives &amp; lots of RAM, and it doesn't cost too much. I do not need battery power and am happy to be constantly attached to the mains.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what about a display? I like the laptop way, attached by hinges. I don't think that a standalone monitor would be conformable, and am looking for something that could be used comfortably in my lap, in an armchair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing commercially available, at a reasonable price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] let's totally forget about price and just discuss what it possible.  In any case, I already have the RAM &amp; drives, so I just need a case, capable of 3.5&quot; drive &amp; greater than 16gB RAM. I will buy the lowest specced of that and add my own RAM &amp; drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Irrespective of price, the important question is whether there is any such device at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Highly priced laptops don't seem to be the way to go. It is looking like a small desktop. One which can sit atop my lap. I _*suppose*_ that I could sit it on the floor beside me  ... actually, the biggest challenge seems to be getting a  screen and keyboard onto my lap (drive a latop from a desktop?). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I need one again, unless I can find [a decent, affordable, laptop ](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9720/large-screen-laptop-for-software-developer)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9722" RevisionGUID="02e4e0a7-c7de-4791-9053-d379033ca73b" CreationDate="2018-09-09T16:55:39.927" UserId="9807" Text="I need to add a RS232(Serial Port) connection to my pc, and unfortunately I'm unable to use RS232 to USB adapter, only direct RS232 connection, I have seen this item: [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MYLB-DB9-RS232-to-10-pin-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-Adapter/32735919280.html?][1]&#xD;&#xA;and that seems nice, but I have no idea how to connect something like that, I'm pretty sure that it shouldn't be connected through the PSU, as I don't recall seeing anything similar from a PSU, so I assume you need to connect it directly to the motherboard somehow, which I believe is correct, but still, I don't know how to connect it to the motherboard, and if I even can, here are pictures of my motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My motherboard is MSI B75MA-E33, so Im not even sure its the correct place to ask, but hopefully someone can help me here, thanks! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MYLB-DB9-RS232-to-10-pin-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-Adapter/32735919280.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.726d6d354gPzge&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_5015512_10059_5016212_10696_100031_10084_10083_5016313_10103_451_452_10618_10307_5015613,searchweb201603_45,ppcSwitch_5&amp;algo_expid=73b6ce48-3a58-4554-ac33-7eea0b33bb05-0&amp;algo_pvid=73b6ce48-3a58-4554-ac33-7eea0b33bb05&amp;priceBeautifyAB=0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tn2ju.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAMg6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32078" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9722" RevisionGUID="02e4e0a7-c7de-4791-9053-d379033ca73b" CreationDate="2018-09-09T16:55:39.927" UserId="9807" Text="Adding RS232(Serial Port) to motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32079" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9722" RevisionGUID="02e4e0a7-c7de-4791-9053-d379033ca73b" CreationDate="2018-09-09T16:55:39.927" UserId="9807" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;rs-232&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9723" RevisionGUID="5b4a9000-e17d-4357-8fd2-7e4508432074" CreationDate="2018-09-09T21:17:28.660" UserId="6089" Text="According to the manual for this mainboard, located at the manufacturer's web site: [MSI Support][1], this specific board has the correct connector for the cable you've linked in your post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Page 11 has the layout of the connectors and other features of the board:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![mainboard image 01][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Page 22 has a closer detail of the connector, along with the confirmation that this is a serial port. Be sure to note the keyed pin, which appears to be missing on the cable you've linked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![mainboard image 02][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically the number 1 pin corresponds to the dark stripe on the ribbon cable. Some cables will have the socket filled to prevent or reduce the possibility of incorrect connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your top photo shows most of the legend for JCOM1 and the pins to be used. If you experience communications difficulties, ensure in the BIOS that the port is not intentionally disabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B75MA-E33#down-manual&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGYuk.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sNzkM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9724" RevisionGUID="d87af580-af88-4578-971b-50e17af714ff" CreationDate="2018-09-09T21:17:52.737" UserDisplayName="user9808" Text="That `MYLB DB9 RS232 to 10 pin Ribbon Cable Connector Adapter` goes into that JCOM1 pin header in [your top picture](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tn2ju.jpg).&#xD;&#xA;You have to make sure that pin 1(of JCOM1) and the red line(of ribbon cable) are on the same side. You may (or may not) need to also enter BIOS to enable COM1 (or Serial) settings, though usually(with any motherboard really) their defaults are already set and COM1 is enabled." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32084" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9725" RevisionGUID="0bc576a9-2724-4578-9a0d-e5b44a77427a" CreationDate="2018-09-10T04:50:54.897" UserId="9731" Text="Since you didn't specify an exact budget and were willing to accept a few substitutions, along with the huge variety of choices and preferences it seems best to suggest websites that have what you want; and can click checkboxes for features and sort of a few preferences. These are all in the UK:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Laptops Direct][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [SaveOnLaptops][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Currys][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [PCWorld][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a few hundred choices for under £1K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopsdirect.co.uk/st/core-i7-laptops?itemsPerPage=48&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.saveonlaptops.co.uk/products/cat/Computing%7EB%7ELaptops%7EB%7ELaptops/sort/1/refine/46562~144409$46565~144424$46565~148012&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/windows-laptops/laptops/laptops/315_3226_30328_xx_ba00010671-bv00308565-ba00012870-bv00311053/xx_xx_xx_xx_5-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-22-23-24-criteria.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/windows-laptops/laptops/laptops/703_7006_70006_xx_ba00010671-bv00308565-ba00012870-bv00311053/xx_xx_xx_xx_5-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-22-23-criteria.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9728" RevisionGUID="e87f293b-d209-400e-a16a-e30773930dc9" CreationDate="2018-09-10T16:18:27.137" UserId="9731" Text="Have you considered an All-In-One where everything is contained behind the screen (as opposed to the way some of them have some of the guts in the foot)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's very few i7 examples for **a lot** less than £1K but here's a couple:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Aspire Z 24 All-In-One Desktop][1] - Z24-880-UR12 £437.57 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't find it in the UK Acer store yet, as it's very new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Aspire Z 24 All-In-One Desktop][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it's only an i5 the [MSI Pro 24X 7M-005EU][3] has a big bottom, that means it's user upgradable. The [manufacturer's website][4] explains the features more in-depth than PriceSpy. An i7 version is likely going to be available too. This demonstrates that an AIO can be upgraded:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI Pro 24X 7M-005EU][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us-store.acer.com/aspire-z-24-all-in-one-desktop-z24-880-ur12&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxz52.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pricespy.co.uk/computers-accessories/computers/desktop-computers/msi-pro-24x-7m-005eu--p4898739&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.msi.com/All-in-One-PC/PRO-24X-7M.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bLqk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9729" RevisionGUID="b73cc45d-5e28-4d70-aa8c-76ffd8a3bc78" CreationDate="2018-09-10T17:17:53.460" UserId="9814" Text="I'm looking for an induction hotplate that I can control via my own software. &#xD;&#xA;[![hotplate][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An RS232 port or something similar would be fine, but I don't mind if it's not RS232. As long as I can write a program to control it. I'd like to be able to switch it on and off (at a certain temperature) using a program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I can't get that, I guess I might be able to have a power switch that can be toggled via a program and the induction hotplate will come on at the correct temperature without any human intervention.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![switch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5nvQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNmWs.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32096" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9729" RevisionGUID="b73cc45d-5e28-4d70-aa8c-76ffd8a3bc78" CreationDate="2018-09-10T17:17:53.460" UserId="9814" Text="Programmable Induction Hotplate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32097" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9729" RevisionGUID="b73cc45d-5e28-4d70-aa8c-76ffd8a3bc78" CreationDate="2018-09-10T17:17:53.460" UserId="9814" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32098" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9722" RevisionGUID="b8501a33-80df-46ea-a35e-f1cd72ff71a9" CreationDate="2018-09-10T17:20:43.993" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9730" RevisionGUID="5108cdaa-5bb7-4b80-9887-3fae87c88a37" CreationDate="2018-09-10T17:49:59.587" UserId="6089" Text="As you have shown an Arduino type device in your photo, you may want to consider to explore the world of Arduino controlled PID devices. I have a stand-alone device which consists of a thermocouple wired to the PID and a solid state relay which is used to turn a heater on and off based on the temperature settings within the PID&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The manual method requires that one make settings to match the thermocouple and to set the upper or lower limit of heating or cooling respectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not explored the Arduino connected versions, but a quick search shows there are quite a few projects making use of this configuration." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32101" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="c4b9b605-a4b9-42b1-ac4c-ed54d202f0cf" CreationDate="2018-09-10T23:01:42.853" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9731" RevisionGUID="02fed165-5ca0-4dfc-9b57-f92e7c108794" CreationDate="2018-09-11T01:56:45.293" UserId="9816" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card that minimizes the amount of time taken to upload 4k video frames from Opencv to the GPU.  OpenCV uses opencl behind the scenes to do GPU related calculations but I've found that the upload/download time to the GPU is the biggest bottleneck.  How do I go about evaluating GPUs and what specs should I be looking at on the graphics card to see if it has the attributes I'm looking for (uploading to graphics card quickly with 4k frames)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9731" RevisionGUID="02fed165-5ca0-4dfc-9b57-f92e7c108794" CreationDate="2018-09-11T01:56:45.293" UserId="9816" Text="Choosing Graphics Card for OpenCV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9731" RevisionGUID="02fed165-5ca0-4dfc-9b57-f92e7c108794" CreationDate="2018-09-11T01:56:45.293" UserId="9816" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9732" RevisionGUID="7e337ed9-89b9-4d0e-898f-630a2014ffa0" CreationDate="2018-09-11T02:00:26.260" UserId="9815" Text="I have a Gaming PC and a newer Macbook. I want to connect these two to a monitor (displayport, 2k 144hz), keyboard/mouse (2 USB 2.0), and headset (speaker/mic). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I am looking for a KVM (or similar) switch that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Outputs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Displayport (2k, 144hz)&#xD;&#xA; - 2x USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA; - Audio (speaker/mic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inputs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Group 1 (Macbook):&#xD;&#xA;   - Thunderbolt 3&#xD;&#xA; - Group 2 (PC):&#xD;&#xA;   - Displayport&#xD;&#xA;   - USB (2x?)&#xD;&#xA;   - Audio (speaker/mic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32106" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9732" RevisionGUID="7e337ed9-89b9-4d0e-898f-630a2014ffa0" CreationDate="2018-09-11T02:00:26.260" UserId="9815" Text="KVM Switch for a Gaming PC and a new Macbook?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32107" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9732" RevisionGUID="7e337ed9-89b9-4d0e-898f-630a2014ffa0" CreationDate="2018-09-11T02:00:26.260" UserId="9815" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32112" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="e103d667-8b65-4754-9e9a-564f1c21de5c" CreationDate="2018-09-12T03:02:22.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9735" RevisionGUID="c7cc553d-f914-4d41-adb6-439512761412" CreationDate="2018-09-12T05:10:45.933" UserId="9821" Text="I am running Lubuntu host and virtual box Wins 8.1 guest together, and looking at the current RAM on my machine the output is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[My Lubuntu Free Memory][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though there is a slight degradation in performance in the overall computer setup, would buying another 8GB of ram improve the performance of my machine significantly? The screenshot I've put up is just my laptop idling. I won't be playing games, and more about using MS powerpoint in the VB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sys info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinkpad E460 Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6200U CPU @ 2.30GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.imgur.com/xSaAhQF.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32120" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9735" RevisionGUID="c7cc553d-f914-4d41-adb6-439512761412" CreationDate="2018-09-12T05:10:45.933" UserId="9821" Text="Should I buy more RAM for my Lubuntu 18.04 host / Virtual Box Wins 8.1 Guest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32121" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9735" RevisionGUID="c7cc553d-f914-4d41-adb6-439512761412" CreationDate="2018-09-12T05:10:45.933" UserId="9821" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32122" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="5c3099a8-c65d-4184-aa80-2db52e05d528" CreationDate="2018-09-12T09:00:31.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32123" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="ca1b3c34-8e21-4491-a050-05a9169be127" CreationDate="2018-09-12T10:00:44.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32125" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9736" RevisionGUID="cbf3280e-3cde-4f06-b2f6-79457330fcb1" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:28:20.127" UserId="9823" Text="I'm planning on buying a new `laptop` for some productivity and maybe a bit of gaming too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the main specs/price I want to get:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Processor**: `Intel i7` &#xD;&#xA; - **Disk**: `256GB SSD + 1TB HDD` or `512GB SSD`&#xD;&#xA; - **Ram**: `16GB`&#xD;&#xA; - **Graphic Card**: something similar to the `nVidia GeForce GTX1050 4Gb`  &#xD;&#xA; - **Screen**: could be `14 inches` or `15 inches`&#xD;&#xA; - **Price**: maximum `1500 EUR`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only option I could found was the model:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ASUS Vivobook Pro 15 N580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any similar options, even for other brands?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32126" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9736" RevisionGUID="cbf3280e-3cde-4f06-b2f6-79457330fcb1" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:28:20.127" UserId="9823" Text="Recommendation laptop for productivity and some gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32127" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9736" RevisionGUID="cbf3280e-3cde-4f06-b2f6-79457330fcb1" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:28:20.127" UserId="9823" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9737" RevisionGUID="e15616f3-a278-482c-9ad8-8f8587b27ae7" CreationDate="2018-09-12T14:34:35.973" UserId="6047" Text="[MSI GX63VR €1.375,99 + €23,62 International Shipping (MSRP: €1.460,99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GX63][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a gaming capable laptop that can ship to Lisbon, Portugal in under 5 business days (I took the liberty of checking the location on your stack-exchange profile). I decided to recommend you a laptop equipped with a GTX 1070 as [benchmarks suggest this laptop will outperform the ASUS Vivobook Pro 15 N580's GTX 1050 by 186%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile/m211022vsm164129). 1080 setups, unfortunately were over budget [despite outperforming 1070 setups by 22%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080-Mobile/m164129vsm165564). In addition, this laptop comes equipped with an PCI-e M.2 SATA SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 1070 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; 1080p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't like buying laptops internationally, [here are some local stores in Lisbon that carry MSI laptops](https://es.msi.com/service/wheretobuy/#41,3,Lisboa). You seem to know what you're doing, so I don't think that you would have any trouble finding a couple MSI laptops to add to your options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/pt/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154732&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj1BG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32135" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9740" RevisionGUID="c21eb49e-5a5e-43ab-9ff5-6da25049e6cf" CreationDate="2018-09-12T14:43:49.650" UserId="9824" Text="[Dell G3579 $1350 + free shipping (1162.18 euro)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8th Generation Intel Core i7-8750H Processor (6-Core, 9MB Cache, up&#xD;&#xA;   to 3.9GHz w/Turbo Boost) &#xD;&#xA; - 16GB 2666MHz DDR4 up to 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB (SSD) Boot + 1 TB 5400 RPM SATA HDD Storage , No ODD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6-inch FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS Anti-Glare, LED-Backlit Display&#xD;&#xA; -  Screen Size 15.6 inches &#xD;&#xA; - Max Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA; - Processor 3.9 GHz Intel Core i7 &#xD;&#xA; - RAM 16 GB DDR4 &#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive 1000 GB Mechanical Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics Coprocessor NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://Dell%20Gaming%20Laptop%20-%2015%22%20FHD,%208th%20Gen%20Intel%20Core%20i7-8750H%20CPU,%2016GB%20RAM,%20256GB%20SSD+1TB%20HDD,%20NVIDIA%20GeForce%20GTX%201050TI,%20Windows%2010%20Home,%20Black%20-%20G3579-7989BLK-PUS%20Notebook%20PC%20Computer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyMLu.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9740" RevisionGUID="b61580ec-1f0d-4a37-a8f4-fec5f00fa416" CreationDate="2018-09-12T14:48:56.183" UserId="9824" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="[Dell G3579 $1350 + free shipping (1162.18 euro)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8th Generation Intel Core i7-8750H Processor (6-Core, 9MB Cache, up&#xD;&#xA;   to 3.9GHz w/Turbo Boost) &#xD;&#xA; - 16GB 2666MHz DDR4 up to 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB (SSD) Boot + 1 TB 5400 RPM SATA HDD Storage , No ODD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6-inch FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS Anti-Glare, LED-Backlit Display&#xD;&#xA; -  Screen Size 15.6 inches &#xD;&#xA; - Max Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA; - Processor 3.9 GHz Intel Core i7 &#xD;&#xA; - RAM 16 GB DDR4 &#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive 1000 GB Mechanical Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics Coprocessor NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://Dell%20Gaming%20Laptop%20-%2015%22%20FHD,%208th%20Gen%20Intel%20Core%20i7-8750H%20CPU,%2016GB%20RAM,%20256GB%20SSD+1TB%20HDD,%20NVIDIA%20GeForce%20GTX%201050TI,%20Windows%2010%20Home,%20Black%20-%20G3579-7989BLK-PUS%20Notebook%20PC%20Computer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyMLu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Google search using &quot;gaming laptop 500gb ssd 1tb hdd gtx 1050 16gb ram&quot; gives a handful of options that fit your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9737" RevisionGUID="1218e68b-b01f-4e07-85b1-8e39d7de95c1" CreationDate="2018-09-12T16:13:41.870" UserId="6047" Comment="VR" Text="[MSI GX63VR €1.375,99 + €23,62 International Shipping (MSRP: €1.460,99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GX63][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a VR capable laptop that can ship to Lisbon, Portugal in under 5 business days (I took the liberty of checking the location on your stack-exchange profile). I decided to recommend you a laptop equipped with a GTX 1070 as [benchmarks suggest this laptop will outperform the ASUS Vivobook Pro 15 N580's GTX 1050 by 186%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile/m211022vsm164129). 1080 setups, unfortunately were over budget [despite outperforming 1070 setups by 22%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080-Mobile/m164129vsm165564). In addition, this laptop comes equipped with an PCI-e M.2 SATA SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 1070 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; 1080p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't like buying laptops internationally, [here are some local stores in Lisbon that carry MSI laptops](https://es.msi.com/service/wheretobuy/#41,3,Lisboa). You seem to know what you're doing, so I don't think that you would have any trouble finding a couple MSI laptops to add to your options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/pt/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154732&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj1BG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9740" RevisionGUID="e90b9af9-2bd2-438d-966c-f7d5b82b24c6" CreationDate="2018-09-12T17:13:10.903" UserId="9824" Comment="deleted 186 characters in body" Text="[Dell G3579 $1350 + free shipping (1162.18 euro)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8th Generation Intel Core i7-8750H Processor (6-Core, 9MB Cache, up&#xD;&#xA;   to 3.9GHz w/Turbo Boost) &#xD;&#xA; - 16GB 2666MHz DDR4 up to 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB (SSD) Boot + 1 TB 5400 RPM SATA HDD Storage , No ODD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6-inch FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS Anti-Glare, LED-Backlit Display&#xD;&#xA; -  Screen Size 15.6 inches &#xD;&#xA; - Max Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 &#xD;&#xA; - Processor 3.9 GHz Intel Core i7 &#xD;&#xA; - RAM 16 GB DDR4 &#xD;&#xA; - Hard Drive 1000 GB Mechanical Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics Coprocessor NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8X58582570&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyMLu.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Google search using &quot;gaming laptop 500gb ssd 1tb hdd gtx 1050 16gb ram&quot; gives a handful of options that fit your needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9737" RevisionGUID="313df930-cb3d-4d57-9e17-db60f0806dcb" CreationDate="2018-09-12T19:15:11.767" UserId="6047" Comment="Link fix: I think Lisboa is different from Libon. Close enough otherwise I suppose." Text="[MSI GX63VR €1.375,99 + €23,62 International Shipping (MSRP: €1.460,99)][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GX63][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a VR capable laptop that can ship to Lisbon, Portugal in under 5 business days (I took the liberty of checking the location on your stack-exchange profile). I decided to recommend you a laptop equipped with a GTX 1070 as [benchmarks suggest this laptop will outperform the ASUS Vivobook Pro 15 N580's GTX 1050 by 186%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1050-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile/m211022vsm164129). 1080 setups, unfortunately were over budget [despite outperforming 1070 setups by 22%](http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1070-Mobile-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080-Mobile/m164129vsm165564). In addition, this laptop comes equipped with an PCI-e M.2 SATA SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 1070 8 GB&#xD;&#xA; - i7-7700 HQ&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB M.2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; 1080p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't like buying laptops internationally, [here are some local stores in Lisbon that carry MSI laptops](https://es.msi.com/service/wheretobuy/#41,3,Lisbon). You seem to know what you're doing, so I don't think that you would have any trouble finding a couple MSI laptops to add to your options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/pt/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154732&amp;ignorebbr=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj1BG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32145" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9702" RevisionGUID="16723cfd-76e4-4ef5-af58-cffd528d12be" CreationDate="2018-09-12T20:19:41.280" UserId="1329" Comment="added 1571 characters in body" Text="I want to mention that there are also models with 8GB of RAM and more options to choose from in the price range between $350 to $1500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindle Fire with keyboard, that pretty much is how I use my Asus C302 and I also think of it as: »nah, it's not running anything fancy.« But actually it can amount to quite a lot and there is not much left of 4GB RAM even though I usually use it with GalliumOS and Firefox which is a bit more aggressive with memory management (you should stick with Chrome OS though!).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: on second thought, I cannot imagine making good use of more than 8GB with your usage patterns at the moment. I had a laptop with 16GB for two years, not used for gaming or hosting more than one virtual machine, RAM was just rather cheap at that time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the point of view that a Chromebook is a piece of computer hardware with a keyboard and a 10-15 inch screen that runs a webbrowser to display websites it may look like 4GB are sufficient. At the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best way to find out if 4GB is enough for you would be open **Chrome's Taskmanager** during your usual desktop browsing and check how much Chrome consumes. Some extensions also consume additional RAM, websites tend to grow and be designed more responsive, also people usually have several tabs open or pinned. 4GB is okay for now but on top of my head knowing the browsing habits of people around me and my own and that a Chromebook may well last 5 years or more while being regularly updated with security updates and new features(!), I'd recommend to spend a bit more money to get an 8GB model at least.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From another point of view I have watched 2GB Chromebooks and HDMi sticks suffer under the load of poorly written iframe Grafana &amp; Kibana madness for months. You don't want to run out of RAM if it can be avoided.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chromebooks also feature Android Apps and Linux apps (Crostini). It is still not a full fledged desktop experience like a Mac or Windows computer but you certainly have the possibility to make use of more than 4GB RAM now or in the future. Some people may argue that you could close some rather unimportant tabs or that the browser should manage background tabs better but I don't think that is a good solution as you may want to use a split view to view more pages at the same time, work with multiple monitors (small portable monitors exist) or just have the information ready when you need it (and no network access).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The benefit is to not run out of RAM, which results in significant system slow downs. Also typically RAM cannot be upgraded on Chromebooks. I'd give the same advice for Chromebooks as I'd give for any laptop that you are going to use the next couple of years: **4GB RAM is not enough, get 8GB and have peace of mind.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2018-09-12: There is another point to consider: the processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To keep it simple: **try to avoid Intel processors where the model number starts with an N**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are [out-of-order low power CPU designs][1] and different from typical mobile CPUs. They have been marketed as Atoms but also as Celerons and Pentiums. If you can afford to spend more money get a device with at least a Pentium processor without an N in the model number, or even better an m3/i3 or m5/i5. Intel has been very liberal with names and letters which is very confusing for consumers after some generations/years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google is likely going to present a [successor to the Pixelbook][2] in a few weeks. Keep your eyes open you may find a good deal for the old model. If that's not an option you can check reddit where a user posts a Bi-Weekly Buying Advice Thread, here is the latest one at the time of writing: https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/9ci9bd/biweekly_buying_advice_thread_sep_2_15/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in Germany where Chromebooks are rather unpopular, so there isn't much advice I can give where to get the best deal in your region.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final note: I also do have a Lenovo N22 with said Celeron N processor, It gets work done (it's the one I tortured with iframes) it's just not that kind of device you were initially looking for, a convertible for a bit more than $500 and 8GB should be a good choice for the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldmont&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://chromeunboxed.com/news/pixelbook-2-images-facebook-nearly-bezel-less-display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32146" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9731" RevisionGUID="5912707d-5215-4f7e-9bf5-8426bf294a02" CreationDate="2018-09-12T21:08:50.470" UserId="9816" Comment="add a small summary of budget" Text="I'm looking for a graphics card that minimizes the amount of time taken to upload 4k video frames from Opencv to the GPU.  OpenCV uses opencl behind the scenes to do GPU related calculations but I've found that the upload/download time to the GPU is the biggest bottleneck.  How do I go about evaluating GPUs and what specs should I be looking at on the graphics card to see if it has the attributes I'm looking for (uploading to graphics card quickly with 4k frames)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I'd like the machine to cost &lt;= 500 dollars in total, including the GPU (I am open to building a completely new machine for this).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, the gist is to build something optimized as much as possible for OpenCV (with OpenCL) and video processing high res (4k) in general" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32147" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="dc2ff8a1-82fa-4775-8f7e-897e5ac678b7" CreationDate="2018-09-13T00:00:56.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9735" RevisionGUID="c4ec4796-61a2-4539-b847-b8f4c914e1ab" CreationDate="2018-09-13T02:50:48.407" UserId="6047" Comment="Embedded image" Text="I am running Lubuntu host and virtual box Wins 8.1 guest together, and looking at the current RAM on my machine the output is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![My Lubuntu Free Memory][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even though there is a slight degradation in performance in the overall computer setup, would buying another 8GB of ram improve the performance of my machine significantly? The screenshot I've put up is just my laptop idling. I won't be playing games, and more about using MS powerpoint in the VB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sys info:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinkpad E460 Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6200U CPU @ 2.30GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TqNah.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32149" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9735" RevisionGUID="c4ec4796-61a2-4539-b847-b8f4c914e1ab" CreationDate="2018-09-13T02:50:48.407" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 9821 edit id of 740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32150" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="384d3f42-43d3-41ec-a1ad-62377b0bca06" CreationDate="2018-09-13T09:00:17.677" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32151" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7078" RevisionGUID="f8507f6c-ecf3-486a-88cf-3bfebf79c896" CreationDate="2018-09-13T14:01:08.190" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32152" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9741" RevisionGUID="a310f7a9-7849-45b6-b5de-c9df3702ee6a" CreationDate="2018-09-13T14:15:40.187" UserId="6047" Text="I've tried to keep your budget as close to $500 as possible making every micro optimization that I know of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Custom Build Part List $555.68	][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel i5-8400**&#xD;&#xA; - **Liquid CPU Cooler** Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120&#xD;&#xA; - **8GB DDR4-2666** G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series&#xD;&#xA; - **M.2 SSD 128GB** Samsung - PM961&#xD;&#xA; - **Nvidia GTX 1050 2GB** (MSI)&#xD;&#xA; - **Micro ATX** Gigabyte - H310M&#xD;&#xA; - **450W PSU** EVGA 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA; - **MicroATX Mini Tower Case** Rosewill - FBM-01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional HDD Suggestion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **300GB 10000 RPM HDD** Western Digital VelociRaptor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Analysis/Justifications ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Foremost, typically the most expensive part of a high-end custom build tends to be its GPU, where **the latest 1080 and 1070 GPUs cost about your entire budget alone**. In order to reduce cost I decided to recommend you a GTX 1050 which should be able to render 4K at 60 fps, I don't believe the C++ OpenCV libraries are terribly inefficient so you should be good there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [**i5-8400 is on par with the i7-6700K in terms of performance**][2] with the exception of floating point calculations where it lags behind a little bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SSD Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[The PM 961 outperforms the 2.5&quot; Samsung 860 EVO][3]** with a whopping 1496 MB/s seq read and 722 MB/s seq write. If you're not familiar with them, the Samsung EVO's are well known for being one the best valued SSDs and can pack quite a punch. I have an 840 EVO and can attest to its performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I had to skimp on the RAM to try and save money**. I did however try to find RAM with the lowest CAS latency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Build Caveats ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to save money on the Motherboard, I had to use a motherboard that only supports up to 32 GB of RAM despite the i5-8400 supporting up to 64 GB of RAM split over 2 slots. Also the cheap-o case I recommended doesn't have front panel USB 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[In case you missed it, here is the PC Part Picker page][1] for this build which will help you automatically track the best place to buy each part for your build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bennett_yeo/saved/N9JkdC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K/3939vs3502&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-PM961-NVMe-PCIe-M2-128GB-vs-Samsung-860-Evo-250GB/m194898vs3949" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32156" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="88b1c3cf-054e-43fe-ae53-d5ca27d7572d" CreationDate="2018-09-13T17:01:40.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32157" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9741" RevisionGUID="9b5dd83f-8479-47e7-a85e-a451d5a9e5cc" CreationDate="2018-09-13T18:14:34.133" UserId="6047" Comment="Forgot WD VelociRaptor Link" Text="I've tried to keep your budget as close to $500 as possible making every micro optimization that I know of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Custom Build Part List $555.68	][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel i5-8400**&#xD;&#xA; - **Liquid CPU Cooler** Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120&#xD;&#xA; - **8GB DDR4-2666** G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series&#xD;&#xA; - **M.2 SSD 128GB** Samsung - PM961&#xD;&#xA; - **Nvidia GTX 1050 2GB** (MSI)&#xD;&#xA; - **Micro ATX** Gigabyte - H310M&#xD;&#xA; - **450W PSU** EVGA 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply&#xD;&#xA; - **MicroATX Mini Tower Case** Rosewill - FBM-01&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional HDD Suggestion:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [**300GB 10000 RPM HDD** Western Digital VelociRaptor][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Analysis/Justifications ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Foremost, typically the most expensive part of a high-end custom build tends to be its GPU, where **the latest 1080 and 1070 GPUs cost about your entire budget alone**. In order to reduce cost I decided to recommend you a GTX 1050 which should be able to render 4K at 60 fps, I don't believe the C++ OpenCV libraries are terribly inefficient so you should be good there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [**i5-8400 is on par with the i7-6700K in terms of performance**][3] with the exception of floating point calculations where it lags behind a little bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**SSD Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[The PM 961 outperforms the 2.5&quot; Samsung 860 EVO][4]** with a whopping 1496 MB/s seq read and 722 MB/s seq write. If you're not familiar with them, the Samsung EVO's are well known for being one the best valued SSDs and can pack quite a punch. I have an 840 EVO and can attest to its performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM Choice**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I had to skimp on the RAM to try and save money**. I did however try to find RAM with the lowest CAS latency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Build Caveats ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to save money on the Motherboard, I had to use a motherboard that only supports up to 32 GB of RAM despite the i5-8400 supporting up to 64 GB of RAM split over 2 slots. Also the cheap-o case I recommended doesn't have front panel USB 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[In case you missed it, here is the PC Part Picker page][1] for this build which will help you automatically track the best place to buy each part for your build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bennett_yeo/saved/N9JkdC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD3E7CF6483&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K/3939vs3502&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-PM961-NVMe-PCIe-M2-128GB-vs-Samsung-860-Evo-250GB/m194898vs3949" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32158" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="4b379584-9632-452b-806b-3151a708b5aa" CreationDate="2018-09-13T19:01:35.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9013" RevisionGUID="c4065490-662a-4687-9a70-5c1eaafc85d9" CreationDate="2018-09-13T19:24:12.023" UserId="9030" Comment="added 135 characters in body" Text="Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD seems to fit all my requirements (yet to buy it to find out for sure), although it is almost as big as 2.5&quot; HDD enclosure and costs over $50 (former drawback is more important for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so my search continues with added criteria: &#xD;&#xA;smaller than Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD and without XQD slot, or with USB type C connector, or docking station / port replicator that has full-sized SD slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: yes, it does, except second slot for sony's proprietary XQD memory cards is useless for me until XQD to SD adapter is created" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9744" RevisionGUID="f6e30642-aecb-4515-918c-0b517dcbbc05" CreationDate="2018-09-14T01:30:36.057" UserId="9820" Text="The current price of i7-3770k in my place is (7000PHP) ~ 130USD while i5-3570k is only (3500PHP) ~ 65USD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the extra 4 threads really to pay for a double price? I mean it is not a real core right? They are both quad-core processor but the i7 has 4 more threads than i5." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32165" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9744" RevisionGUID="f6e30642-aecb-4515-918c-0b517dcbbc05" CreationDate="2018-09-14T01:30:36.057" UserId="9820" Text="Is i7-3770k really worth buying than i5-3570k?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32166" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9744" RevisionGUID="f6e30642-aecb-4515-918c-0b517dcbbc05" CreationDate="2018-09-14T01:30:36.057" UserId="9820" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32171" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="a9421b03-78fc-4ace-9695-0433fec82083" CreationDate="2018-09-14T11:00:54.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9746" RevisionGUID="f32cb12c-7691-4224-9226-90fc1bd61eb1" CreationDate="2018-09-14T13:51:59.967" UserId="6047" Text="When it comes to comparing CPUs in an objective way without having them on hand, the quickest way to estimate how a processor will perform, and therefore, its value you is to look at [benchmarks between the processors][1]. Here, we can see the effective speed is pretty negligible, but the average user benchmark for multi core scenarios is markedly faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I mean it is not a real core right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, it depends on what you define as a &quot;real core&quot;. Take a look at Intel's article on its [Hyper Threading technology][2] for a sense of the mechanics behind the theoretical cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of &quot;is it a real core&quot; in a &quot;does it do anything?&quot; sense, the 4 theoretical cores does make a measurable impact as the i7 has a faster Multi Core Integer and Floating Point calculation speed by about 33% and a bench marked multi core speed of +39%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Are the extra 4 threads really worth paying double the price?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The four extra cores on the i7 are &quot;theoretical&quot; or hyper thread cores. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whether it is worth it, really depends on your user case scenario. Something like video encoding may benefit more from the increased multi-thread speed, while a *badly* written single threaded game might not see as much benefit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My guess is if this computer is going to be for general use, you could probably get away with the i5.** Computer enthusiasts making gaming builds typically downgrade to i5 variants of their i7 processor when their budget demands it, as it is usually better to reallocate those resources for a higher end GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3770K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-3570K/1317vs1316&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/hyper-threading/hyper-threading-technology.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32173" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="f47f1f06-6fb7-49d5-8528-93b0ae9ed6e4" CreationDate="2018-09-14T16:00:08.903" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32174" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="598" RevisionGUID="0f222d9a-2441-43f0-b1ec-ac561d652f48" CreationDate="2018-09-14T17:00:32.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32175" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="c16644e6-d6f7-467b-9795-b850feb75509" CreationDate="2018-09-14T18:00:45.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32182" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="6e1604db-e758-48ee-8601-71495df3cea2" CreationDate="2018-09-15T04:01:08.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32189" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="f21ec59b-0c92-4b27-a8e3-7730d65821fa" CreationDate="2018-09-16T02:00:22.820" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9748" RevisionGUID="112961b3-58af-4824-9ff2-bc75281eba70" CreationDate="2018-09-16T05:16:41.183" UserId="9692" Text="I'm using **Tecknet**  16750mAh to provide power to Raspberry Pis.I'm really happy with them. Power is provided uninterrupted when the bank is being charged, when the bank charging power goes down and when it comes back. **Not all banks do that**: I have tested some other banks where there was a short interruption when the power charging the bank  was coming back. Each USB is able to deliver 2,4A (3.4A max on both) so the RPi runs smoothly and is protected against grid outages, even the long ones (several hours). One of my RPis has 2y+ uptime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, since some months the all Tecknet banks are out of stock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for alternatives with the following requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Capacity &gt;12000mAh&#xD;&#xA;* One USB port is OK&#xD;&#xA;* Charging power provided when the bank is being charged, when the bank charging power is down and when it comes back." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32192" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9748" RevisionGUID="112961b3-58af-4824-9ff2-bc75281eba70" CreationDate="2018-09-16T05:16:41.183" UserId="9692" Text="power bank charging while being charged" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32193" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9748" RevisionGUID="112961b3-58af-4824-9ff2-bc75281eba70" CreationDate="2018-09-16T05:16:41.183" UserId="9692" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9749" RevisionGUID="9bd61494-c4bb-4314-b85f-d3578f76d4c3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T10:25:35.290" UserId="1410" Text="That's all. I don't care at all abbout graphics. I prefer 16gB RAM, but can add that myself. I don't particalarly care abour processor, although Core i5 or AMD equavalent would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just screen size &amp; the cance to whack in a big, in both senses, harddrive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UK based, or cheap postage thereto a bonus. Lower peice is, of course, welcome. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9749" RevisionGUID="9bd61494-c4bb-4314-b85f-d3578f76d4c3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T10:25:35.290" UserId="1410" Text="Laptop with a 17&quot; screen which can take a 15mm 4tB hgarddrive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9749" RevisionGUID="9bd61494-c4bb-4314-b85f-d3578f76d4c3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T10:25:35.290" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9750" RevisionGUID="46a0bbf6-7b87-4d2e-9814-b6b9f3fba0b3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T12:44:13.423" UserId="9835" Text="I would like to buy a new laptop now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Privacy and security is my priority. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know if there is already proven backdoors and vulnerabilities of top brands and manufacturers of laptops, cpu processors, memory etc. For example at other my question here (https://superuser.com/questions/1358405/vulnerabilities-of-it-system-due-to-hardware) someone told me that Lenovo and HP have preinstalled some vulnerabilities in their hardware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would omit hardware of manufacturers who already got caught red handed for backdoors as well as omit hardware which is very sensitive in case of malicious software running around internet. In other words I need hardware which is safe from abuse of manufacturer as well as safe against viruses of 3rd party. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably there is no such an ideal hardware but please let know which brands to omit surely and which one are known to be safe and respecting privacy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are Dell or Asus trustable ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9750" RevisionGUID="46a0bbf6-7b87-4d2e-9814-b6b9f3fba0b3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T12:44:13.423" UserId="9835" Text="Laptop with out backdoors and vulnerabilities?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9750" RevisionGUID="46a0bbf6-7b87-4d2e-9814-b6b9f3fba0b3" CreationDate="2018-09-16T12:44:13.423" UserId="9835" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9751" RevisionGUID="9a99052f-1d3a-42b7-a654-a5da8e60177c" CreationDate="2018-09-16T14:15:46.357" UserId="9835" Text="&#xD;&#xA;What are cheap (&lt;200 USD) and privacy oriented cell phones ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for the phones just for calling and sms messaging. I consider phones with and without operating system, or I can buy one of both types. But I do not accept situation when my OS is linked to Google like classic Android does. Is there Android version that is not preinstalled with Google services ? What are the alternatives for Android ? Can I buy any cell phone and reinstall choosen OS ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have heard that Nokia 3310 is good way but it is easily to break with fake BTS attack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, any smartphone have operating systems that make possible to attack our device with many new ways. I learned about BlackBerry which one was privacy oriented. But probably already working with United States duties. And recently produce cell phones with preinstalled Google version of Android... Blackphone is too expensive...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think to buy an old Nokia 3310 for some special situations and one cheap and safe smartphone with some safe OS for everyday use. What do you think ? Should I buy Nokia 3310 from some people (used) who have got it 15 years ago or can I buy one brand new (old version of 3310 but not used one) from aliexpress (from Chinese) ? They sell brand new Nokia 3310 (and it is not a new version of Nokia 3310 which is widely being sell)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32201" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9751" RevisionGUID="9a99052f-1d3a-42b7-a654-a5da8e60177c" CreationDate="2018-09-16T14:15:46.357" UserId="9835" Text="Cheap privacy oriented cell phones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32202" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9751" RevisionGUID="9a99052f-1d3a-42b7-a654-a5da8e60177c" CreationDate="2018-09-16T14:15:46.357" UserId="9835" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9752" RevisionGUID="66f43dd2-8f13-47c2-a301-c11a30fbceba" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:37:36.710" UserId="4786" Text="I have made my decision, after some time. I got the laptop with the GL702VS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9753" RevisionGUID="4ef78f25-c6ba-4f0b-b94f-58f7e9651056" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:50:49.293" UserId="4786" Text="So. I have yet another question that requires some advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been tasked by my uncle to find a laptop for my cousin sister's senior college years. She has decided to go into IT Software Engineering. I have also been given a budget to spend around $500. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked at Core i5 and Core i7 Laptops primarily, but either these laptops are too outdated, or just don't meet my minimum requirements model. She will coding in what I assume will be Java, or at the very least Delphi, so the CPU is a game changer here. I have considered Atom, but the specs of the CPU set is putting me off the whole Atom lineup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the laptop to have the following specifications --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Any form of Quad Core CPU clocked at over 2.7GHz. Not too worried about whether the CPU is Intel or AMD. CPU must have integrated graphics&#xD;&#xA; 2. Have at least 4GB RAM. Not too worried if it is DDR3 or DDR4.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Some form of SSD Storage, preferably paired with an HDD of some kind&#xD;&#xA; 4. If possible, which I doubt, some form of dedicated GPU, whether it be AMD or Nvidia. A stretch, but preferred if possible.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Can ship internationally&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the games she wants to play in her downtime, she wants to play games like Minecraft and maybe CS:GO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for viewing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9753" RevisionGUID="4ef78f25-c6ba-4f0b-b94f-58f7e9651056" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:50:49.293" UserId="4786" Text="Laptop for programming and light gaming under $500?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9753" RevisionGUID="4ef78f25-c6ba-4f0b-b94f-58f7e9651056" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:50:49.293" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32207" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="bca41fc3-4033-43c7-9b91-4f18ed3f55a0" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:18:47.600" UserId="6936" Text="I need a keyboard which has an extra key in the area of the left thumb.&#xD;&#xA;I need this extra key to bind it to the mouse left button, because I use graphic tablet a lot and it's *next to impossible* to work normally without a mouse click functionality. Currently I use Autohotkey and bind the `LWin` key to emulate the mouse click, but it is inconvenient &#xD;&#xA;because the `LWin` key is in the 'dead' zone and I need to make extra movements all the time so it is quite painful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I need a keyboard which has some extra key in the thumb area i.e. where the space bar normally is. The problem though - none of the standard  keyboards have them (they only have a huge spacebar as everybody knows).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've spent a lot of time googling and I have found something that looks promising:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: http://mc.pp.se/dc/kbd.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a Japanese keyboard. This seems exactly what I am looking for, because there are extra buttons on the bottom row. All Japanese have them so I could buy one, BUT: the problem is, I am not sure how this extra key (left to the spacebar) will act normally if I use Windows  and e.g. standard US layout? Will it be possible to make use of it by binding it to the mouse click with Autohotkey? Or maybe there are some Japanese keyboards produced for EU/US market with those keys as a bonus (would be ideal)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I have found another possible solution: ThinkPad Lenovo keyboard with trackpoint:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I don't like it because it's not full-size, and I don't really need &#xD;&#xA;the trackpoint.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option which looks promising as well is MS Natural Ergonomic 4000:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;because of two extra buttons below the spacebar. Again Not sure if they can be used to emulate mouse click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So *ideally* I want something like the Japanese keyboard, but only if I can really make use of those keys &#xD;&#xA;in the bottom row.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can I make use of that extra keys on Japanese keyboards, e.g. rebind with Autohotkey to other keys (mouse click)?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I bind the MS Natural 4000 extra keys (below the spacebar 'prev' button) to the mouse click?&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboards with split spacebar (2-piece spacebar) - can the left piece be bound to other key by any chance?&#xD;&#xA;- Do you know of any analog or similar keyboards, i.e. with extra keys on the bottom row that can be used in such way? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the keyboard should be easily available and not very expensive. Obviously there is something &#xD;&#xA;like ErgoDox, but I am not ready for this investment of money and time yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMiRI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GZBM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Of3jA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32208" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="bca41fc3-4033-43c7-9b91-4f18ed3f55a0" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:18:47.600" UserId="6936" Text="Keyboard with extra keys in the bottom row (or near the spacebar)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32209" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="bca41fc3-4033-43c7-9b91-4f18ed3f55a0" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:18:47.600" UserId="6936" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32212" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="27de36d6-2990-41fa-b075-a8877565618d" CreationDate="2018-09-17T02:00:45.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9748" RevisionGUID="ea842dc2-2dd8-4f3d-b6fc-5f74a76b0890" CreationDate="2018-09-17T03:48:57.797" UserId="9692" Comment="Cleanup and few precisions added" Text="I'm using **Tecknet** 16750mAh power banks to provide power to Raspberry Pis. I'm really happy with them. Power is provided uninterrupted when the bank is being charged, when the bank charging power goes down and when it comes back. **Not all banks do that**: I have tested some other banks where there was a  interruption when the power charging the bank  was coming back. And there are banks that just disconnect their load. Each USB is able to deliver 2,4A (3.4A max on both) so the RPi runs smoothly and is protected against grid outages, even the long ones (several hours). One of my RPis has 2y+ uptime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, since some months all Tecknet banks are out of stock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for alternatives with the following requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Capacity &gt;12000mAh&#xD;&#xA;* One USB port is OK&#xD;&#xA;* Charging power provided when the bank is being charged, when the bank charging power is down and when it comes back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="4f1badcf-9c3e-4a4b-867a-78392fc67223" CreationDate="2018-09-17T11:32:09.587" UserId="7287" Text="I'm getting ready to build a new video editing workstation. I've decided to use an AMD Threadripper and add a GeForce 1070 GPU, with the idea of adding potentially a second one in the future, when budget allows. I'm also adding 2 SSDs and 2 mechanical HDs in a RAID configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, my problem is that I have never built a liquid cooling rig, and I'm a bit worried about all the heat that the above listed components will produce (specially the part about 2 GPUs in the future). Is it possible to build an air-cooled rig with the specs I have mentioned above, and have it work reasonably well? (&quot;Reasonably&quot;: it won't burn up my components, nor it will make my room sound like an airport).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32221" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="4f1badcf-9c3e-4a4b-867a-78392fc67223" CreationDate="2018-09-17T11:32:09.587" UserId="7287" Text="Threadripper + 2 GPUs: do I have to use liquid cooling?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32222" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="4f1badcf-9c3e-4a4b-867a-78392fc67223" CreationDate="2018-09-17T11:32:09.587" UserId="7287" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32226" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9111" RevisionGUID="fbf54799-6194-45ab-93f8-f9b10250c0a6" CreationDate="2018-09-17T16:00:32.730" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32228" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="0d5020f5-efa9-4976-8728-786d904b2ced" CreationDate="2018-09-18T02:52:22.967" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9759" RevisionGUID="5c5bea6a-f29e-40e1-a6d4-ca84456086d6" CreationDate="2018-09-18T04:57:56.167" UserId="6722" Text="I'm thinking about the HW for my new *Linux* developer computer. The only unclear part is the graphic card as I need it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- to support three monitors, each having&#xD;&#xA;  - *2560 x 1600* pixels&#xD;&#xA;  - and only *DualLink DVI* connectors&#xD;&#xA;- be *low profile*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should run smoothly for working and occasionally watching video, no gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably related details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Intel Core i7-7700K&#xD;&#xA;- Ubuntu 18.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently considered graphic cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sapphire R5 230 2GB DDR3 (low end AMD, preferred because of bad nVidia Linux compatibility)&#xD;&#xA;- MSI GeForce GT 1030 2G LP OC, 2GB GDDR5 (assuming it can be used together with the on board graphic)&#xD;&#xA;- PALiT GeForce GT 1030, 2GB GDDR5 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9759" RevisionGUID="5c5bea6a-f29e-40e1-a6d4-ca84456086d6" CreationDate="2018-09-18T04:57:56.167" UserId="6722" Text="Graphic card for developer box with 3 x WQXGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9759" RevisionGUID="5c5bea6a-f29e-40e1-a6d4-ca84456086d6" CreationDate="2018-09-18T04:57:56.167" UserId="6722" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9749" RevisionGUID="0c240e57-7fd7-4e7d-8ad0-51a443e4afb4" CreationDate="2018-09-18T06:19:36.180" UserId="1410" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="That's all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For those who don't know, they get larger capacity by adding more platters to the drive. That makes it physically taller than normal, and most laptops won't accommodate such a drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care at all about graphics. I prefer 16gB RAM, but can add that myself. I don't particalarly care abour processor, although Core i5 (or above) or AMD equavalent would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just screen size &amp; the cance to whack in a big, in both senses, harddrive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UK based, or cheap postage thereto a bonus. Lower price is, of course, welcome. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32237" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9749" RevisionGUID="0c240e57-7fd7-4e7d-8ad0-51a443e4afb4" CreationDate="2018-09-18T06:19:36.180" UserId="1410" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited title" Text="Laptop with a 17&quot; screen which can take a 15.5mm 4tB hgarddrive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32238" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="89d473bc-70c3-484f-b14b-3150a5ad7417" CreationDate="2018-09-18T09:06:02.780" UserId="7287" Comment="reworked the question a lot, after researching and getting input from other posters" Text="I'm getting ready to build a new video editing workstation. I've decided to use an AMD Threadripper and add a GeForce 1070 GPU, with the idea of adding potentially a second one in the future, when budget allows. I'm also adding 2 SSDs and 2 mechanical HDs in a RAID configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, my problem is that I have never built a liquid cooling rig, but I'm a bit worried about all the heat that the above listed components will produce (specially the part about 2 GPUs in the future).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: to add to the above, I don't really have much time to spend tinkering right now and I need the new computer ASAP, so I'd like some recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is it really worth it to go with liquid cooling for the system I described above? Can it work correctly with conventional cooling? I shoild mention: I don't plan to overclock at all.&#xD;&#xA; 2. If I go with liquid cooling, what would be the way to do it with minimum hassle? I've been researching AIO systems, both for the CPU and the GPU(s). How would I integrate two AIO loops with one reservoir and pump?&#xD;&#xA; 3. From the research I've done since I originally asked this question, my impression is that, if I had to choose, it would be more worth it to liquid cool the GPU than the Threadripper. Am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And since I'm on it, and despite the fact that I shouldn't even think about it, I've been researching and I got curious: if I were to build a custom loop, how would I cool both the GPU and the CPU? The only way I can think of is with a serial loop, but according to [this guide][1] you can also build a parallel loop... but it doesn't explain how.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-loop-order-matter/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32239" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="89d473bc-70c3-484f-b14b-3150a5ad7417" CreationDate="2018-09-18T09:06:02.780" UserId="7287" Comment="reworked the question a lot, after researching and getting input from other posters" Text="Threadripper + 2 GPUs and liquid cooling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="3450899c-8a7a-4f02-8190-e1286dafc1c5" CreationDate="2018-09-18T17:52:10.470" UserId="1004" Text="Okay, we found an extra **HP NC522SFP Dual Port 10GbE Gigabit Server Adapter (468332-B21)** at a site and I got it put into an HP Proliant server and it sees it, loaded drivers, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read over the [QuickSpecs](https://h20195.www2.hpe.com/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04123358&amp;doctype=quickspecs&amp;doclang=EN_US&amp;searchquery=&amp;cc=uk&amp;lc=en) and according to this, it seems you have to use either an SFP DAC cable or get a fiber optics SFP GBIC module and I cannot find anything about any copper SFP GBIC modules to use for a transceiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:**&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any recommendations on any verified and confirmed compatible GBIC adapters that work with this card that is copper and either 1 GbE or 10 GbE that gives just an Ethernet port to plug in an Ethernet cable?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recap Clarification&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. &gt; **Something like this is desired**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;2. &gt; **Would like to avoid these**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Detail&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's for an older HP Proliant DL380 G7 with over 100 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA; - The OS is Windows Server 2012 R2 Datacenter and Device Manager already recognizes the card with drivers, etc. loaded.&#xD;&#xA; - There is no switch at this site that will use a DAC cable on the other end&#xD;&#xA; - There is no switch at this site that can connect fiber optic.&#xD;&#xA; - This site has one managed and one unmanaged 1 Gbe Ethernet switches but neither or those have any GBIC type connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCtym.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVvZ0.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XQrS.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="3450899c-8a7a-4f02-8190-e1286dafc1c5" CreationDate="2018-09-18T17:52:10.470" UserId="1004" Text="SFP GBIC copper Ethernet options for HP Gigabit Server Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="3450899c-8a7a-4f02-8190-e1286dafc1c5" CreationDate="2018-09-18T17:52:10.470" UserId="1004" Text="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="ae99387e-3afe-4c0d-a4c6-83fa782277a7" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:25:33.030" UserId="9545" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a field monitor, with screen size around 7 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* which can be used live with the Sony DSC HX60 camera on a tripod,&#xD;&#xA;* while connecting to the camera's HDMI out port, and&#xD;&#xA;* which can be viewed from in front of the camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: I have read the advice regarding what kinds of question are acceptable here, including [this meta question][1]. My conclusion was that it is all right, given the advice in @Undo's [accepted and second most-favoured answer][2] which defines &quot;hardware&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation&quot;, and a &quot;primary computer system&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform meaningful tasks on its own with minimal external support, and designed to be operated by a user, consumer or professional&quot;; and given his reference to a microphone as a device that can perform more than one task. A digital camera meets the criteria for being a &quot;primary computer system&quot;, and if a microphone can perform more than one task then so can a field monitor. On top of this, the question also meets the requirements suggested in @Cfinley's [most-favoured but not accepted answer][3], in which he expresses the view that things are on-topic that are specifically designed to be used with hardware - a term he doesn't define, but which according to @ArtOfCode's accepted answer to [this question][4] should be taken to include digital cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://%20https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/267/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/386/recommendations-for-digital-camera-with-very-specific-features-on-topic#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="ae99387e-3afe-4c0d-a4c6-83fa782277a7" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:25:33.030" UserId="9545" Text="What field monitors would people recommend for using with the Sony HX60 camera?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="ae99387e-3afe-4c0d-a4c6-83fa782277a7" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:25:33.030" UserId="9545" Text="&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32246" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="b4ee2d36-a137-4520-b627-853f3b8be455" CreationDate="2018-09-18T20:06:30.200" UserId="9545" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a field monitor, with screen size around 7 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* which can be used live with the Sony DSC HX60 camera on a tripod,&#xD;&#xA;* while connecting to the camera's HDMI out port, and&#xD;&#xA;* which can be viewed from in front of the camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: I have read the advice regarding what kinds of question are acceptable here, including [this meta question][1]. My conclusion was that this question is all right, given the advice in @Undo's [accepted and second most-favoured answer][2] which defines &quot;hardware&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation&quot;, and a &quot;primary computer system&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform meaningful tasks on its own with minimal external support, and designed to be operated by a user, consumer or professional&quot;; and given his reference to a microphone as a device that can perform more than one task. A digital camera meets the criteria for being a &quot;primary computer system&quot;, and if a microphone can perform more than one task then so can a field monitor. On top of this, the question also meets the requirements suggested in @Cfinley's [most-favoured but not accepted answer][3], in which he expresses the view that things are on-topic that are specifically designed to be used with hardware - a term he doesn't define, but which according to @ArtOfCode's accepted answer to [this question][4] should be taken to include digital cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://%20https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/267/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/386/recommendations-for-digital-camera-with-very-specific-features-on-topic#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32247" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="cf5e91f8-77fd-4db0-a415-42b780e0b3c0" CreationDate="2018-09-18T20:27:52.830" UserId="9545" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a field monitor, with screen size around 7 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* which can be used live with the Sony DSC HX60 camera on a tripod,&#xD;&#xA;* while connecting to the camera's HDMI out port, and&#xD;&#xA;* which can be viewed from in front of the camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: I have read the advice regarding what kinds of question are acceptable here, including [this meta question][1]. My conclusion was that this question is all right, given the advice in @Undo's [accepted and second most-favoured answer][2] which defines &quot;hardware&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation&quot;, and a &quot;primary computer system&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform meaningful tasks on its own with minimal external support, and designed to be operated by a user, consumer or professional&quot;; and given his reference to a microphone as a device that can perform more than one task. A digital camera meets the criteria for being a &quot;primary computer system&quot;, and if a microphone can perform more than one task then so can a field monitor. On top of this, the question also meets the requirements suggested in @Cfinley's [most-favoured but not accepted answer][3], in which he expresses the view that things are on-topic that are specifically designed to be used with hardware - a term he doesn't define, but which according to @ArtOfCode's accepted answer to [this question][4] should be taken to include digital cameras.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://%20https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/267/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/386/recommendations-for-digital-camera-with-very-specific-features-on-topic#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9763" RevisionGUID="4e3de56b-6434-412e-8569-458d549e02cf" CreationDate="2018-09-19T01:20:31.813" UserId="9842" Text="I am in the process of looking for a new computer (most likely a tower) and wanted to hit up this subreddit since people seem pretty legit here and a lot of good advice has been shared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I'm looking for something with decent enough specs to do dev work and other data science related projects. Thinking this will land in the realm of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) 16/32 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) 4 cores, 2 threads&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Anything from 3.0Ghz and above&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) And definitely an SSD of at least 512 GB for storage. I would like the ability to run any VM if desired&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5) Would be willing to shell out $500, but I'm a frugal person by nature, so if there are some dope deals out there, I wouldn't be opposed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am pretty hardware naive (something that I am working on ;) ), and the past few days of searching has revealed to me that I know next to nothing about anything haha. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be more than interested. Also, any hardware related books, because if I'm working in software, I should at least have a better understanding of my machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All responses and help is much appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9763" RevisionGUID="4e3de56b-6434-412e-8569-458d549e02cf" CreationDate="2018-09-19T01:20:31.813" UserId="9842" Text="In search of a new machine for dev/data science work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9763" RevisionGUID="4e3de56b-6434-412e-8569-458d549e02cf" CreationDate="2018-09-19T01:20:31.813" UserId="9842" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32251" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7278" RevisionGUID="c051e470-540b-497e-b3c3-755f767b6db7" CreationDate="2018-09-19T02:00:57.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32252" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="6504daf5-1644-4be6-862f-161fa52895d6" CreationDate="2018-09-19T05:00:56.967" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32253" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="8095fc4f-3b4f-4de1-a088-f95fb3a09ac9" CreationDate="2018-09-19T06:00:34.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="c3c1ad89-e90b-4fef-accc-42de3855ea05" CreationDate="2018-09-19T08:01:10.777" UserId="9843" Text="- I know (current) ATX PSU will turn off its power after the PC shutdown. This is good.&#xD;&#xA;- I know (old) AT PSU will leave its connectors with power on even after the PC shutdown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector#Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I also know that to bridge the Green and Black wires will start up a PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ref: https://makezine.com/projects/computer-power-supply-to-bench-power-supply-adapter/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But i want none of above. **I wish to get a modern ATX PSU** (which means power will be off after PC shutdown), **only with one / some molex connectors always-on** (power stays on after the PC shutdown).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I would prefer buying a good PSU with this feature.&#xD;&#xA;2. If PSU with such feature does not exist, i would consider altering current PSU to my requirement. Please give me some directions to proceed. (Alter PSU? Alter motherboard? etc.)&#xD;&#xA;3. Using two PSU can achieve this. But this is not preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Not important: Why i want this feature?*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is because I want to keep my liquid cooling loop, as well as some LED lights, on as a showcase, even after my PC shutdown." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32255" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="c3c1ad89-e90b-4fef-accc-42de3855ea05" CreationDate="2018-09-19T08:01:10.777" UserId="9843" Text="ATX Power Supply Unit with one/some Always-On Molex Connectors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32256" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="c3c1ad89-e90b-4fef-accc-42de3855ea05" CreationDate="2018-09-19T08:01:10.777" UserId="9843" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32260" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="54e5c7e0-a398-4f4f-947d-e782877e6783" CreationDate="2018-09-19T12:07:59.740" UserId="1004" Comment="edited title" Text="SFP GBIC copper Ethernet option for an HP Gigabit Server Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="884c64a1-7b2a-4997-a175-8d381870128a" CreationDate="2018-09-20T08:54:40.450" UserId="9687" Text="I need cisco enterprise router recommendation. Now I am using cisco 2821 Gigabit Router. It is a single WAN router. Now I thought to buy a backup router. Its means, the new Router will become primary and old cisco 2821 will be as backup router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main criteria of that router is the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) I am serving a web service and I have E-mail server also. &#xD;&#xA;       100-200 users could be use my web service. &#xD;&#xA;    2) It should be Gigabit Router. Now my Fiber connection bandwidth is 100 Mbps. &#xD;&#xA;       I may upgrade it to 200 Mbps. So It should work with 100 Mbps ISL connection. &#xD;&#xA;    3) It should support Dual WAN connections. Load Balancing.&#xD;&#xA;    4) It should be enterprise router. It should have firewall, Instruction &#xD;&#xA;       Prevention and SSL VPN.&#xD;&#xA;    5) It should handle multi user connect at the same time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="884c64a1-7b2a-4997-a175-8d381870128a" CreationDate="2018-09-20T08:54:40.450" UserId="9687" Text="Need recommendation for CISCO enterprise router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="884c64a1-7b2a-4997-a175-8d381870128a" CreationDate="2018-09-20T08:54:40.450" UserId="9687" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32273" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="ade3f1e0-703b-4716-836b-206dec5be52f" CreationDate="2018-09-20T09:00:41.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9759" RevisionGUID="72e8118b-a89d-4410-915c-2048ae133abc" CreationDate="2018-09-20T12:42:20.850" UserId="6722" Comment="added 180 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking about the HW for my new *Linux* developer computer. The only unclear part is the graphic card as I need it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- to support three monitors, each having&#xD;&#xA;  - *2560 x 1600* pixels&#xD;&#xA;  - and only *DualLink DVI* connectors&#xD;&#xA;- be *low profile*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As noted in a comment, the CPU supports three monitors. However, I want a small computer and this requires a small main board and no such main board has three video connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should run smoothly for working and occasionally watching video, no gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Probably related details:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU Intel Core i7-7700K&#xD;&#xA;- Ubuntu 18.04&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently considered graphic cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Sapphire R5 230 2GB DDR3 (low end AMD, preferred because of bad nVidia Linux compatibility)&#xD;&#xA;- MSI GeForce GT 1030 2G LP OC, 2GB GDDR5 (assuming it can be used together with the on board graphic)&#xD;&#xA;- PALiT GeForce GT 1030, 2GB GDDR5 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32276" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="473ba871-75a9-4532-8f31-eaaa0a1c5cbd" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:37:19.130" UserId="60" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32277" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="9bce3cb3-b915-4cbf-9724-99d8b4fc642c" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:56:15.940" UserId="60" Comment="Edited out the tech support questions to open up the possibilities of the recommendations. " Text="I'm getting ready to build a new video editing workstation. I've decided to use an AMD Threadripper and add a GeForce 1070 GPU, with the idea of adding potentially a second one in the future, when budget allows. I'm also adding 2 SSDs and 2 mechanical HDs in a RAID configuration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, my problem is that I have never built a liquid cooling rig, but I'm a bit worried about all the heat that the above listed components will produce (specially the part about 2 GPUs in the future).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I am not planning on overclocking this system, it doesn't _need_ to be water cooled, but I do have concerns that conventional air cooling will not be enough to prevent the system from thermal throttling. I don't really have much time to spend tinkering right now and I need the new computer ASAP, so I'd like some recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to keep the cost of the cooling solution below $350. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If liquid cooling, it would need to cool the CPU and GPU(s) with one reservoir and pump." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32278" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9757" RevisionGUID="d04019db-bb5d-4dcb-b47b-d7ba64625d57" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:57:45.793" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="d898351d-c946-4e4b-95d5-6effd843e711" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:58:14.323" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Clarity, Focus" Text="I need a cisco enterprise router recommendation. I am currently using a Cisco 2821 Gigabit Router single WAN router. Ultimately, the new Router will become my primary router while the old Cisco 2821 will become a backup router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Main Criteria**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I am serving a **web service** and an **E-mail server** as well. **100-200 users** could be use my web service. &#xD;&#xA; 2. I want the router to be a **Gigabit Router**. Right now **my fiber connection bandwidth is 100 Mbps**.&#xD;&#xA; 3. **I may upgrade the connection to 200 Mbps. The router should work with 100 Mbps ISL connection**. &#xD;&#xA; 4. The router should support **Dual WAN connections** and **Load Balancing**.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Is an enterprise router meaning it should have **Firewall**, **Instruction &#xD;&#xA;       Prevention**, and **SSL VPN**.&#xD;&#xA; 6. It should be capable of **simultaneously handling multi-user connections**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32280" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="d898351d-c946-4e4b-95d5-6effd843e711" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:58:14.323" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, Clarity, Focus" Text="CISCO enterprise router recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32281" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9766" RevisionGUID="d898351d-c946-4e4b-95d5-6effd843e711" CreationDate="2018-09-20T17:58:14.323" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 60 edit id of 742" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9767" RevisionGUID="58eab58a-0687-4d6f-bc19-3277a569ece3" CreationDate="2018-09-20T20:24:01.690" UserId="9848" Text="I recently bought an adapter which allowed me to install a Samsung SSD in my Early 2013 Macbook 15 Pro with SATA. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, now I have a spare 512 GB Apple SSD with it‘s proprietary interface. I‘d like to install it to an Intel NUC with some kind of „Apple 2012 Sata Ssd“ to m.2 adapter cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn‘t find one. But I‘m probably not the first who wants to do this. Do you know an adapter and can recommend me one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9767" RevisionGUID="58eab58a-0687-4d6f-bc19-3277a569ece3" CreationDate="2018-09-20T20:24:01.690" UserId="9848" Text="Macbook Retina 2012/2013 (SATA) To m.2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9767" RevisionGUID="58eab58a-0687-4d6f-bc19-3277a569ece3" CreationDate="2018-09-20T20:24:01.690" UserId="9848" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;apple&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32296" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9771" RevisionGUID="db771f17-9d99-48b4-a98a-2ab0bb125e08" CreationDate="2018-09-21T21:47:17.937" UserId="9851" Text="I setup a clean install of Linux Mint 19 Cinnamon on a 2007 Sony Vaio laptop with Core2Duo processor and 2 GB of memory.  It has the original 160 GB HDD. I set the computer up for my parents and it works fine, but occasionally, it seems to lag a bit.  The most demanding task that my parents will throw at it would be watching a Youtube Video at 1078 x 768 or whatever the resolution laptops of that era used.  99% of the time it will only be used for web surfing.  Would installing a modern SSD remove the lag or is my bottleneck somewhere else?  I'm thinking the processor should be sufficient and the minimum requirement is 1 GB of memory, 2 GB recommended.  If it's just an SSD, I can order a small one, I just don't want to put more than about $50 into it since it's such an old laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32297" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9771" RevisionGUID="db771f17-9d99-48b4-a98a-2ab0bb125e08" CreationDate="2018-09-21T21:47:17.937" UserId="9851" Text="Linux Mint Cinnamon on Core2Duo?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32298" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9771" RevisionGUID="db771f17-9d99-48b4-a98a-2ab0bb125e08" CreationDate="2018-09-21T21:47:17.937" UserId="9851" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9772" RevisionGUID="3f4cda00-4850-43a8-838c-057843e5dcbe" CreationDate="2018-09-21T23:52:40.223" UserId="3714" Text="I have had two smart phones in the last 8 years:  the first I kept for 5 years, and my current phone I have had for 3 years.   I don't mind keeping the same phone for a long time, but it seems like no matter how much research I have done I always wind up with a phone that won't last as long as I want it to.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first phone developed issues with the micro USB plug, apparently it was a design flaw whereby over time the connection became intermittent, making it difficult to keep the phone properly charged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current phone has known issues with the battery.  I suppose I can always replace the battery every year or two at 50-100 bucks a pop, but unlike my first phone the battery is not user replaceable and this is somewhat of a pain as well as more expensive than if it was user replaceable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What specific makes and models should I consider if I want to use the same phone for at least ten years?  Assume that I don't care about OS updates, Android is preferred, and that I'm willing to buy a (possibly used) phone already a year or two old so as to have a better idea of its track record (no design flaws that shake out in the first year or two) as well as save some money versus a new product.  Exact feature set is not terribly important as long as it's towards the high end of the smart phone range as of the time of its offering.  In general they all seems pretty similar to me and the main thing I am concerned about, long term reliability, isn't easy to come by and certainly isn't a listed feature or necessarily even a design concern given the propensity of many people to buy a phone every two years to keep up with the latest incremental features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32300" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9772" RevisionGUID="3f4cda00-4850-43a8-838c-057843e5dcbe" CreationDate="2018-09-21T23:52:40.223" UserId="3714" Text="smart phone that won't need to be replaced for at least 10 years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32301" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9772" RevisionGUID="3f4cda00-4850-43a8-838c-057843e5dcbe" CreationDate="2018-09-21T23:52:40.223" UserId="3714" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32307" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="48156dbc-4e93-4b9a-bd8e-0944d3664cda" CreationDate="2018-09-22T02:00:08.790" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="1983de16-2f6c-4fa9-b2c7-63c6f1122767" CreationDate="2018-09-22T03:02:07.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32312" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9775" RevisionGUID="cb6dbed5-b0c5-4a24-bfe7-6d9be84365d8" CreationDate="2018-09-22T14:13:02.357" UserId="9854" Text="Is **ADATA XPG SX6000 PCIe 512GB PCIe Gen3x2 M.2 2280 NVMe SSD** compatible with Alienware 17 R3? According to the specification, Alienware 17 R3 supports **PCIe Gen3x4** but this SSD is of **PCIe Gen3x2**. Is PCIe Gen3x2 is compatible on Gen3x4 slot. Kindly throw some light on it.&#xD;&#xA;Advance thanks!! &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32313" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9775" RevisionGUID="cb6dbed5-b0c5-4a24-bfe7-6d9be84365d8" CreationDate="2018-09-22T14:13:02.357" UserId="9854" Text="Is ADATA XPG SX6000 512GB PCIe Gen3x2 M.2 2280 SSD compatible with Alienware 17 R3?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32314" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9775" RevisionGUID="cb6dbed5-b0c5-4a24-bfe7-6d9be84365d8" CreationDate="2018-09-22T14:13:02.357" UserId="9854" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="ee620366-03f5-4422-b1cd-c561643be1b1" CreationDate="2018-09-23T01:15:54.340" UserId="5449" Text="I would like to essentially watch my television network on my computer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically it outputs HDMI/VGA.  I would prefer this to be cheap as possible but don't mind spending some money.  I am currently running W10 but have linux and MacOS boxes also." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32319" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="ee620366-03f5-4422-b1cd-c561643be1b1" CreationDate="2018-09-23T01:15:54.340" UserId="5449" Text="Watch HD 1080p HDMI/VGA on Computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32320" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="ee620366-03f5-4422-b1cd-c561643be1b1" CreationDate="2018-09-23T01:15:54.340" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9778" RevisionGUID="102cddac-2a7c-4695-8cc6-ff5b2fde270f" CreationDate="2018-09-23T07:37:17.113" UserId="9725" Text="I am searching for an alternative to the popular *Sonoff Basic* WiFi switch, which satisfies the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Low voltage: **5V or 12V DC** (input and output)&#xD;&#xA; - Standardized protocol: **WiFi, Bluetooth or Z-Wave** preferred&#xD;&#xA; - **CE certification**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32322" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9778" RevisionGUID="102cddac-2a7c-4695-8cc6-ff5b2fde270f" CreationDate="2018-09-23T07:37:17.113" UserId="9725" Text="Low-voltage wireless switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32323" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9778" RevisionGUID="102cddac-2a7c-4695-8cc6-ff5b2fde270f" CreationDate="2018-09-23T07:37:17.113" UserId="9725" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32324" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="e117ad4e-2109-4880-a9d7-363db32c8f8f" CreationDate="2018-09-23T18:01:24.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9780" RevisionGUID="3131f0dd-4d87-43d9-85c3-20ab01f02b29" CreationDate="2018-09-23T19:07:34.210" UserId="661" Text="&quot;Seems to lag a bit&quot; is quite a wide definition. An SSD will speed up start-up of applications and responsiveness of the system when the HDD is under load. You can tell pretty easily if the HDD is slowing the computer down by listening to the seek noise. 2 GB RAM is also not much these days, so it also could happen that you'll hear the hard drive being busy because it's swapping to disk. Linux Mint MATE should be less memory hungry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the computer stutters when playing video, that would be a different problem, it would mean that the CPU is too slow to decode it and the GPU is not helping because it's either too old/weak (doesn't support decoding modern video formats) or it potentially could but Linux drivers don't support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see CPU and memory usage in a program called htop (can be installed from the repositories), that can also tell you where the problem could be. In any case, don't expect any miracles. I've been running a very highly clocked Core 2 Duo with 8 GB RAM and an SSD on a motherboard from 2007 and sometimes could not figure out why it was so slow compared to a nimble laptop with 2014 tech. It's just... old :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32328" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="8669d651-8ee9-4b63-bb7d-4d4a01d27270" CreationDate="2018-09-23T23:01:28.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9781" RevisionGUID="a05bd32b-833b-4284-93fb-d067bbda47db" CreationDate="2018-09-23T23:32:15.637" UserId="9731" Text="It depends on which features and accessories you want, some can sling to your phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Hauppauge - WinTV-dualHD USB Video Recorder][1] - Black - U$70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Stick][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Hauppauge WinTV-quadHD PCIe Card][3] - U$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Card][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Diamond ATI Theater HD 750 PCIE Tuner Card][5] -U$46&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Card + Remote Control][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hauppauge-wintv-dualhd-usb-video-recorder-black/4793702.p?skuId=4793702&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/09nan.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1261230-REG/hauppauge_1609_wintv_quadhd_pcie_card.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRV28.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Theater-PCIE-Tuner-Card/dp/B003F8O690&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ep64L.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32330" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9781" RevisionGUID="8be6008f-4c1b-4986-a378-3fd9b01b6b0a" CreationDate="2018-09-24T02:38:48.580" UserId="9731" Comment="Added additional example." Text="It depends on which features and accessories you want, some can sling to your phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Hauppauge - WinTV-dualHD USB Video Recorder][1] - Black - U$70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Stick][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Hauppauge WinTV-quadHD PCIe Card][3] - U$100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Card][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Diamond ATI Theater HD 750 PCIE Tuner Card][5] -U$46&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Card + Remote Control][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Terk HD Digital TV Tuner with DVR Capability][7] - U$48&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDMI Output][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hauppauge-wintv-dualhd-usb-video-recorder-black/4793702.p?skuId=4793702&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/09nan.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1261230-REG/hauppauge_1609_wintv_quadhd_pcie_card.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRV28.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Theater-PCIE-Tuner-Card/dp/B003F8O690&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ep64L.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.terk.com/tv-tuner/?sku=TUNVR1#customer-reviews&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzpvR.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32335" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9783" RevisionGUID="ef869fe8-32b4-495a-bb83-cb9c0bf94cfb" CreationDate="2018-09-24T07:44:59.737" UserId="5672" Text="Have you considered using a small dedicated 12V supply to power the pump and lights?&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure what the behavior of your pump is when there's no PWM signal on the fan header while the computer is powered off. It may go full power turbo on you or go off entirely. That would be for you to experiment with. I see, that the pump goes to 24 watt, depending on your LED setup you might get away with using something like a 50W 12Vdc regulated supply. Those are not too hard to find. The important thing is then to connect ground but create a separate 12V rail just for the pump and lights and not let that reverse feed your main PSU. Things might get smokey otherwise. Just take an extra connector, cut the 12V wire and feed it from the new supply; connect ground(0V) to your PSU ground(0V) so the PWM and fan speed signals won't get confused. Probably also important to use an ungrounded plug for the small supply since I bet the main PSU is already grounded(earth ground). Otherwise if you connect two earth grounded supplies, there is a decent possibility of sparks.&#xD;&#xA;Of course be very careful when modifying several hundred watt power supply wiring and test everything on the bench before plugging in your devices and components." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9784" RevisionGUID="e64cd975-6ea2-48cc-ba53-c681b47c4e0b" CreationDate="2018-09-24T09:29:20.693" UserId="5061" Text="I've scoured the internet and understand the following for cctv installation at home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1. IP Camera(s) (Bullet or Dome)&#xD;&#xA;    2. POE Switch to power the IP Camera(s)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm undecided on the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufactures recommend using NVR (Network Video Recorder) to see and record the network feed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is the following&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I connect the POE switch to my windows 10 machine and use a security software like blue iris does it not replace the NVR?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S I need a monitor, mouse, HDD in both cases. Using POE switch I save on electrical wiring too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help understand.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32337" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9784" RevisionGUID="e64cd975-6ea2-48cc-ba53-c681b47c4e0b" CreationDate="2018-09-24T09:29:20.693" UserId="5061" Text="What parts make up a cctv installation at home?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32338" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9784" RevisionGUID="e64cd975-6ea2-48cc-ba53-c681b47c4e0b" CreationDate="2018-09-24T09:29:20.693" UserId="5061" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;&lt;poe&gt;&lt;nvr&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32339" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="ff3b001b-e01b-49bd-8c78-d952f0f39106" CreationDate="2018-09-24T10:01:18.703" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9786" RevisionGUID="284d63dc-202d-4125-a243-482f69ab0e99" CreationDate="2018-09-24T14:44:49.960" UserId="9630" Text="Use the NVR.&#xA;&#xA;It’s a dedicated piece of equipment that will consume less energy than a windows 10 computer.  NVR’s also contain different hard drives that are specifically made for constant writing and over-writing of video (they last longer).&#xA;&#xA;In my house the NVR is tucked away (and cleverly disguised) on a closet shelf.  This adds to security as an intruder likely wouldn’t be able to find it.  (They steal it and you lost your video of the event.)&#xA;&#xA;We did need to attach a keyboard, monitor, and mouse to the NVR briefly during initial setup.  We set the password and configured the network settings.  Once that is done we shut the system down and removed the keyboard, monitor, and mouse.  Then powered it back up without.   This configuration is called “headless”, and the unit has been in use for years without monitor, keyboard or mouse.   Any of our windows computers can be used anytime to view and download video, and the computers don’t need to be turned on all the time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9786" RevisionGUID="02903422-d977-421d-bf2f-9bdd84d8c09c" CreationDate="2018-09-24T14:58:47.060" UserId="9630" Comment="added 136 characters in body" Text="Use the NVR.&#xA;&#xA;It’s a dedicated piece of equipment that will consume less energy than a windows 10 computer.  NVR’s also contain different hard drives that are specifically made for constant writing and over-writing of video (they last longer).&#xA;&#xA;In my house the NVR is tucked away (and cleverly disguised) on a closet shelf.  This adds to security as an intruder likely wouldn’t be able to find it.  (They steal it and you lost your video of the event.)  (Remember if you choose to hide yours that it does need proper ventilation and should not be in an unconditioned space like an attic.)&#xA;&#xA;We did need to attach a keyboard, monitor, and mouse to the NVR briefly during initial setup.  We set the password and configured the network settings.  Once that is done we shut the system down and removed the keyboard, monitor, and mouse.  Then powered it back up without.   This configuration is called “headless”, and the unit has been in use for years without monitor, keyboard or mouse.   Any of our windows computers can be used anytime to view and download video, and the computers don’t need to be turned on all the time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32350" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="d583081d-b0a4-424f-8fed-0088fa9b4225" CreationDate="2018-09-24T20:09:43.223" UserId="1004" Comment="76" />
  <row Id="32351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="fc3c9205-ea31-41a7-ac5f-f3a491e506be" CreationDate="2018-09-24T21:00:45.203" UserId="1004" Comment="edited body" Text="Okay, we found an extra **HP NC522SFP Dual Port 10GbE Gigabit Server Adapter (468332-B21)** at a site and I got it put into an HP Proliant server and it sees it, loaded drivers, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I read over the [QuickSpecs](https://h20195.www2.hpe.com/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04123358&amp;doctype=quickspecs&amp;doclang=EN_US&amp;searchquery=&amp;cc=uk&amp;lc=en) and according to this, it seems you have to use either an SFP DAC cable or get a fiber optics SFP GBIC module and I cannot find anything about any copper SFP GBIC modules to use for a transceiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:**&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any recommendations on any verified and confirmed compatible GBIC adapters that work with this card that is copper and either 1 GbE or 10 GbE that gives just an Ethernet port to plug in an Ethernet cable?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recap Clarification&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. &gt; **Something like this is desired**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;2. &gt; **Would like to avoid these**&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; [![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional Detail&#xD;&#xA;- &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's for an older HP Proliant DL380 G7 with over 100 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA; - The OS is Windows Server 2012 R2 Datacenter and Device Manager already recognizes the card with drivers, etc. loaded.&#xD;&#xA; - There is no switch at this site that will use a DAC cable on the other end&#xD;&#xA; - There is no switch at this site that can connect fiber optic.&#xD;&#xA; - This site has one managed and one unmanaged 1 GbE Ethernet switches but neither of those have any GBIC type connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCtym.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVvZ0.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XQrS.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9772" RevisionGUID="b6e6add5-c87f-4cc0-a1a2-54285364f92a" CreationDate="2018-09-24T21:09:07.143" UserId="3714" Comment="added 697 characters in body" Text="I have had two smart phones in the last 8 years:  the first I kept for 5 years, and my current phone I have had for 3 years.   I don't mind keeping the same phone for a long time, but it seems like no matter how much research I have done I always wind up with a phone that won't last as long as I want it to.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first phone developed issues with the micro USB plug, apparently it was a design flaw whereby over time the connection became intermittent, making it difficult to keep the phone properly charged.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current phone has known issues with the battery.  I suppose I can always replace the battery every year or two at 50-100 bucks a pop, but unlike my first phone the battery is not user replaceable and this is somewhat of a pain as well as more expensive than if it was user replaceable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What specific makes and models should I consider if I want to use the same phone for at least ten years?  Assume that I don't care about OS updates, Android is preferred, and that I'm willing to buy a (possibly used) phone already a year or two old so as to have a better idea of its track record (no design flaws that shake out in the first year or two) as well as save some money versus a new product.  Exact feature set is not terribly important as long as it's towards the high end of the smart phone range as of the time of its offering.  In general they all seems pretty similar to me and the main thing I am concerned about, long term reliability, isn't easy to come by and certainly isn't a listed feature or necessarily even a design concern given the propensity of many people to buy a phone every two years to keep up with the latest incremental features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Update: From the comments, it seems like the most likely candidate will have wireless charging (to avoid premature USB failure from plugging and unplugging it a lot) and a removable battery (which makes a lot of sense not only from easy of replacing the battery when it fails, but also being able to carry along extra batteries to extend life.)  However, looking at 2018 phones there appears to be no intersection of the two, as the former is a high end feature and high end phones apparently eschew a removable battery in favor of being somewhat waterproof, a feature which is very low on my priority list (getting a bit of sweat on it in my pocket is about as wet as my phone will ever get.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="1abff097-af22-4f53-a44b-3656a6751ace" CreationDate="2018-09-24T21:16:47.440" UserId="9861" Text="I noticed that the Lenovo Yoga tablet doesn't need a tablet cover in order to sit inclined for watching videos. It has a movable plaque on the back/edge for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other Android tablet model featuring something like that? What's the correct word for that plaque, by the way? The tablet covers also have something similar on the back, you open it and then the tablet can sit inclined&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32354" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="1abff097-af22-4f53-a44b-3656a6751ace" CreationDate="2018-09-24T21:16:47.440" UserId="9861" Text="Android tablet not needing a tablet cover for sitting inclined" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32355" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="1abff097-af22-4f53-a44b-3656a6751ace" CreationDate="2018-09-24T21:16:47.440" UserId="9861" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="751133db-86de-4104-a91b-9cf2f83b26be" CreationDate="2018-09-25T05:30:23.163" UserId="9861" Comment="observation" Text="I noticed that the Lenovo Yoga tablet doesn't need a tablet cover in order to sit inclined for watching videos. It has a movable plaque on the back/edge for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other Android tablet model featuring something like that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the children don't like to carry a tablet cover and they prefer to use the tablet without it, even at the cost of not being able to put the table in an inclined position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the correct word for that plaque, by the way? The tablet covers also have something similar on the back, you open it and then the tablet can sit inclined.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9791" RevisionGUID="b4bf69f0-8184-45ec-ac1b-e07f7febf730" CreationDate="2018-09-25T07:26:15.037" UserId="1364" Text="I do not want to choose any of NVIDIA's consumer grade GPUs as they are mainly gaming oriented and the price I'd be paying wouldn't be justified as I won't be using any game-play oriented features like Ray Tracing.And previous generation GPUs prices have gone up despite the launch of new 20XX series making the 10XX also a not good buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMDs consumer grade GPUs aren't still powerful enough as NVIDIA's and their professional ones are too costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, [Habana Labs][1] announced their ML oriented chip set but, its samples ship Q2 of 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, are there any Good consumer grade ASICs for ML?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S: I don't mind library support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.habana.ai" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9791" RevisionGUID="b4bf69f0-8184-45ec-ac1b-e07f7febf730" CreationDate="2018-09-25T07:26:15.037" UserId="1364" Text="ASICs for Machine Learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32368" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9791" RevisionGUID="b4bf69f0-8184-45ec-ac1b-e07f7febf730" CreationDate="2018-09-25T07:26:15.037" UserId="1364" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9791" RevisionGUID="37eebdfc-ed30-4e1b-a2b4-d6d1234db7de" CreationDate="2018-09-25T07:43:33.720" UserId="1364" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I do not want to choose any of NVIDIA's consumer-grade GPUs as they are mainly gaming oriented and the price I'd be paying wouldn't be justified as I won't be using any game-play oriented features like Ray Tracing. And also, the previous generation GPUs prices have gone up despite the launch of new 20XX series making the 10XX, not a good buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's consumer-grade GPUs aren't still powerful enough as NVIDIA's and their professional ones are too costly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, [Habana Labs][1] announced their ML oriented chipset but its samples ship Q2 of 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, are there any Good consumer grade ASICs for ML?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S: I don't mind library support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.habana.ai" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32370" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="8dac8608-bf27-43e3-be21-1e4d5fc8c225" CreationDate="2018-09-25T09:01:07.537" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32375" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="33aac7da-49cc-486f-8f44-bbd0bbd90c90" CreationDate="2018-09-25T11:12:36.240" UserId="9861" Comment="added 45 characters in body; edited title" Text="I noticed that the Lenovo Yoga tablet doesn't need a tablet cover in order to sit inclined for watching videos. It has a movable plaque on the back/edge for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other Android tablet model featuring something like that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I noticed that the children don't like to carry a tablet cover (and probably not even a separate kickstand) and they prefer to use the tablet without it, even at the cost of not being able to put the table in an inclined position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the correct word for that plaque, by the way? The tablet covers also have something similar on the back, you open it and then the tablet can sit inclined.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32376" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9788" RevisionGUID="33aac7da-49cc-486f-8f44-bbd0bbd90c90" CreationDate="2018-09-25T11:12:36.240" UserId="9861" Comment="added 45 characters in body; edited title" Text="Android tablet with integrated kickstand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9793" RevisionGUID="05c1d41e-8b7d-49c5-8663-09f6ab00fd54" CreationDate="2018-09-25T11:43:57.320" UserId="1873" Text="Consider Intel's (former Altera) FPGAs - they have an OpenCL compiler. They even have PCIe development kits. Or the Xeon Phi series which might be better suited for this." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="5bc13edc-be28-4ae9-b287-ba1d6af2991c" CreationDate="2018-09-25T13:02:16.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="9e921c80-aae7-48d7-b8db-a1cac059cdb0" CreationDate="2018-09-25T14:00:44.690" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32385" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="3e5a0a0a-56ce-40fe-910d-fafc49ce9b8e" CreationDate="2018-09-26T02:00:32.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="0943fab5-c61a-475a-b6ae-324ba7a34d2a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T08:34:46.687" UserId="1285" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (**indoor**) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be **programmable** (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) *or* it must be able to write a program to **interactively steer** the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the **camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...** to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images. Note that there are drones who can only store the camera stream internally and others who can send the camera stream to for instance a smartphone. The last functionality is called FPV (First Person View).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a **gyroscope and accelerometer**, of which the sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself *or* on a separate PC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice (but is no requirement) to attach an **electromagnet** underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With regard to **battery life**, we aim for at least 10 min.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and be resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these (if possible for the given budget).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, **price** is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so it would be nice if a batch of drones drops the price)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32390" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="ae6eebd3-9ff7-4fda-afaa-2c4ea97f0a5a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T10:01:23.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9795" RevisionGUID="953b24ff-7be2-4874-b93a-30f2af965ef3" CreationDate="2018-09-26T11:17:33.313" UserId="4896" Text="There are many offerings that should suffice. I have a Netgear Wifi extender which has a Gigabit network port, which directly addressesyour question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/wifi-range-extenders/EX6120.aspx&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you may also want to consider a Wifi Homeplug - Again, I also have a Netgear offering; you get a powerline adapter/homeplug at one end, and another plug that also has a built-in Wifi access point for the other end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/powerline/XWNB5201.aspx&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this case, the Wifi is only N-standard rather than AC, but the benefit is that you don't need to run cable through the house." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32392" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="9f1ce75f-9ccd-4f13-a6eb-623c4b488260" CreationDate="2018-09-26T14:01:39.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8939" RevisionGUID="8dd1432c-f6f3-4f50-be37-1f2cbfcf5aeb" CreationDate="2018-09-26T14:21:05.623" UserId="2292" Comment="Specified battery and DVD drive less important, 17&quot; preferable." Text="I am looking for a powerful laptop/or &quot;schleptop&quot; portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 64GB RAM, dual channel (currently development environment, particularly GWT requirements, occasionally gives trouble if running other things in 32GB).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'd prefer 12-16 threads (our software and IDE extensions are well threaded, 8 threads are a limitation for the latter at times).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of business practices and recent security/performance issues, I would like to try out an AMD Ryzen CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 256GB solid state storage. A hybrid SSD/platter hard drive is fine as long as total storage is 1TB minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not so important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Graphics. Preferably not internal Intel graphics. Internal AMD graphics would be fine, but I think you cannot get this with more than 4 cores/8 threads. So the best option is likely relatively low grade discrete mobile graphics from AMD or nVIDIA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can connect to HD televisions or monitors, so the screen size/quality is not very important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd prefer having a built in DVD drive, but it is not essential.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life - heavy duty jobs would be done on mains, so not high on the list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;17&quot; footprint preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand this will cost me - as portability/smaller form factors usually do. I am hoping it is possible within £2500/$3000. I like not having to take a separate keyboard along and to be able to use it while travelling, however a small form factor PC is also an acceptable solution if it fits in aircraft cabin luggage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it runs slightly against my lack of screen/graphics requirements, I am willing to try a &quot;gaming laptop&quot;, assuming these are expected to handle moderate CPU use. For example, I noticed that ASUS has one with a Ryzen 7 1700 CPU, which might be feasible except it appears to have a 32GB RAM limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can wait a couple of months in case somebody knows something is on the horizon, which I don't know about. Thank you for any ideas." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="da10ba7f-3f8b-4a0c-908a-a58696de5e2a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:49:43.193" UserId="6284" Text="I would like something like this keyboard except where the quality is assured to work for a long while:&lt;br&gt;http://a.co/d/i1uzVA1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be slim (like Surface/Mac desktop keyboard)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be backlit and allow for white color light&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be wireless (i.e. contains USB dongle)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Manufacturing reliability must be verified and must have reputation for quality products&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be full desktop keyboard (i.e. contains numpad section)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard must be for English-native speakers/typists&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferred but not required:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Color variation for keyboard itself&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Individual keys spaced out symmetrically and big enough&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard is **not** mechanical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Irrelevant**:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Price&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Battery-type (e.g. AA, AAA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Amazon and Newegg. I haven't had much luck with the type of keyboard I'm looking for. The only keyboard that has come close is the one I've linked to above. I was going to invest in it until I read the reviews for it. It appears that the quality control for it are sub-standard and so I would like an identical keyboard but from someone who I can trust to make a decent keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32395" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="da10ba7f-3f8b-4a0c-908a-a58696de5e2a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:49:43.193" UserId="6284" Text="Slim Backlight Keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32396" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="da10ba7f-3f8b-4a0c-908a-a58696de5e2a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:49:43.193" UserId="6284" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9797" RevisionGUID="e49d9a29-7257-49e8-97da-4adde32546a6" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:52:51.000" UserId="5792" Text="My phone does [this neat trick](https://www.samsung.com/us/business/products/mobile/phones/dex/) where I can plug it into a USB-C hub and it'll let me use an external monitor, keyboard, and mouse. This has inspired me and I think I would love a way to take advantage of this portably, maybe to hang out in more places and do light work or gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would love a small monitor, maybe 10-15 inches, which is gets video (and power would be nice) through USB-C, and which also has some USB-A ports on the back for a keyboard and mouse. Does such a thing exist yet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9797" RevisionGUID="e49d9a29-7257-49e8-97da-4adde32546a6" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:52:51.000" UserId="5792" Text="Small, portable USB-C monitor with hub?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9797" RevisionGUID="e49d9a29-7257-49e8-97da-4adde32546a6" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:52:51.000" UserId="5792" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="c253d0c6-9008-4b6f-bc6b-8f3f9c301723" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:55:48.727" UserId="6284" Comment="add_bullet" Text="I would like something like this keyboard except where the quality is assured to work for a long while:&lt;br&gt;http://a.co/d/i1uzVA1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be slim (like Surface/Mac desktop keyboard)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be backlit and allow for white color light&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be wireless (i.e. contains USB dongle)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Manufacturing reliability must be verified and must have reputation for quality products&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be full desktop keyboard (i.e. contains numpad section)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard must be for English-native speakers/typists&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferred but not required:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Color variation for keyboard itself&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Individual keys spaced out symmetrically and big enough&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard is **not** mechanical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Irrelevant**:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Price&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Battery-type (e.g. AA, AAA)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Warranty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Amazon and Newegg. I haven't had much luck with the type of keyboard I'm looking for. The only keyboard that has come close is the one I've linked to above. I was going to invest in it until I read the reviews for it. It appears that the quality control for it are sub-standard and so I would like an identical keyboard but from someone who I can trust to make a decent keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32401" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="479e3525-36c2-469a-bddc-d43cd45c99ca" CreationDate="2018-09-26T16:00:36.913" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32403" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="1b50187e-7f57-43ea-8e34-b976f2db2073" CreationDate="2018-09-26T17:01:05.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32407" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="3333c04f-f103-48ba-a1a4-0859ad9b559a" CreationDate="2018-09-26T18:00:40.923" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32408" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="ef7d6643-9f37-4ac1-b40c-b3c5282e490b" CreationDate="2018-09-26T21:01:14.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9800" RevisionGUID="60651dcb-18d5-4626-ab3b-d2d82f25f317" CreationDate="2018-09-27T00:29:13.537" UserId="9731" Text="- [Elecrow AUS50024E][1] (1920x1080 or [2560x1600 HDR][2], 10.1&quot;) they have a big selection, visit their website. They make no mention of this working with Dex but do say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Works perfectly for PS3, PS4, WiiU, XBOX360, Raspberry Pi 3, 2, &amp; 1 Model B or B+, industrial equipment, car audio and video, car headrest, medical equipment display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1503E Monitor][3] (1920x1080, 15.6&quot;) specifically mentions that usability with smartphones is one of its abilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Enlarge Your Mobile Phone without Sacrificing Quality  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; On-Lap 1503E is always your smartphone’s perfect match. Make sure your smartphone supports HDMI output and use the manufacturer’s adapter to output your mobile phone to On-Lap 1503E.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1101P Monitor][4] (1920x1080, 11.6&quot;) has HDMI, and DisplayPort, it mentions it works with a Mac, no mention of smartphones, uses a battery pack (which is probably better than USB powered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1102H Monitor][5] (1920x1080, 11.6&quot;) has built-in battery that they claim lasts 4 1/2 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See also: &quot;[10 Best Portable Monitors][6]&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.elecrow.com/10-1-inch-1920x1080-resolution-hdmi-vga-ips-ps3-ps4-gaming-screen-with-build-in-speakers-for-raspberry-pi-b-2b-3b-xbox-windows-7-8-10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.elecrow.com/10-1-inch-ips-2k-portable-display-supports-hdr-for-raspberry-pi-ps4-xbox-ns.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1503e-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1101p-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1102h-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://ca.bestreviews.guide/portable-monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32413" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9800" RevisionGUID="c59ca394-518a-458a-9093-beb69a927d4e" CreationDate="2018-09-27T03:25:36.907" UserId="9731" Comment="Added the suggestion to use lightweight glasses instead of lugging a bunch of stuff." Text="- [Elecrow AUS50024E][1] (1920x1080 or [2560x1600 HDR][2], 10.1&quot;) they have a big selection, visit their website. They make no mention of this working with Dex but do say:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Works perfectly for PS3, PS4, WiiU, XBOX360, Raspberry Pi 3, 2, &amp; 1 Model B or B+, industrial equipment, car audio and video, car headrest, medical equipment display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1503E Monitor][3] (1920x1080, 15.6&quot;) specifically mentions that usability with smartphones is one of its abilities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Enlarge Your Mobile Phone without Sacrificing Quality  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; On-Lap 1503E is always your smartphone’s perfect match. Make sure your smartphone supports HDMI output and use the manufacturer’s adapter to output your mobile phone to On-Lap 1503E.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1101P Monitor][4] (1920x1080, 11.6&quot;) has HDMI, and DisplayPort, it mentions it works with a Mac, no mention of smartphones, uses a battery pack (which is probably better than USB powered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The [GeChic 1102H Monitor][5] (1920x1080, 11.6&quot;) has built-in battery that they claim lasts 4 1/2 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See also: &quot;[10 Best Portable Monitors][6]&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also possible to use [Moverio BT-300][7] glasses which simulate a 40&quot; (at 2.5 m) or 320&quot; (at 20 m) screen, they're U$800 but don't need a Dex; they can also be used to fly a drone (if that recoupes some of the cost).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.elecrow.com/10-1-inch-1920x1080-resolution-hdmi-vga-ips-ps3-ps4-gaming-screen-with-build-in-speakers-for-raspberry-pi-b-2b-3b-xbox-windows-7-8-10.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.elecrow.com/10-1-inch-ips-2k-portable-display-supports-hdr-for-raspberry-pi-ps4-xbox-ns.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1503e-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1101p-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gechic.com/en-portable-monitor-onlap1102h-overview.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://ca.bestreviews.guide/portable-monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://epson.com/For-Work/Wearables/Smart-Glasses/Moverio-BT-300-Smart-Glasses-%28AR-Developer-Edition%29-/p/V11H756020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32414" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="64efe973-c040-49ab-b5dd-3ab173e2d080" CreationDate="2018-09-27T08:01:46.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9801" RevisionGUID="8fa4c000-2650-486a-a6d6-1d6a61dbec10" CreationDate="2018-09-27T12:45:45.707" UserId="9313" Text="The quick answer:&#xA;&#xA;No, there are no consumer grade ML ASICs you can purchase, and there won't be until the one mentioned in your post launches.&#xA;&#xA;The rabbit hole:&#xA;&#xA;If you absolutely need local hardware:&#xA;&#xA;Most GPUs still have an amazing value proposition for ML, even if they don't have tensor cores. Generally speaking, Nvidia GPUs are more supported in the ML world, so unless you physically can't, go with Nvidia for this task.&#xA;Right now, the RTX 2080/2080ti, even with ray-tracing not utilized, is the best value proposition for money down, in your machine hardware, thanks to their tensor cores. The next step up would be the 5000$ GV Titan card, which is in a price category you want to avoid. If you really don't want to waste any potential, grab a high-end 10 series card, but be aware that these do not have any ML hardware optimizations.&#xA;&#xA;The ASIC-like option:&#xA;&#xA;Your question made me remember that Google mentioned some time ago that they too were developing ML orientated ASICs called TPUs short for &quot;tensor processing units&quot;. I did some digging and it seems that this project has morphed from commercially available ASICs into a ML research driven cloud service. I will link it here:&#xA;https://cloud.google.com/tpu/docs/pricing &#xA;&#xA;If you are willing to use a cloud service, your value proposition changes depending on how often you have to train your ML algorithms. If you are going to train your algo 24/7 with minor tweaks, go with a local GPU. Otherwise the Google service seems like a reasonable alternative to a hardware investment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32422" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="b17c3018-6c7a-486e-a298-59630d2364fa" CreationDate="2018-09-27T16:24:59.303" UserId="60" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32426" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="0866e129-9726-489b-b61b-ffbcee032a07" CreationDate="2018-09-27T16:33:08.750" UserId="5449" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="I would like to essentially watch my television network on my computer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the television network box outputs HDMI/VGA.  I would prefer this to be cheap as possible but don't mind spending some money.  I am currently running W10 but have linux and MacOS boxes also.&#xA;&#xA;Essentially I want a hdmi/vga to USB converter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="95091bef-dab2-45b4-8398-0a7d6196da94" CreationDate="2018-09-27T16:44:05.897" UserId="5449" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="I would like to essentially watch my television network on my computer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically the television network box outputs HDMI/VGA.  I would prefer this to be cheap as possible but don't mind spending some money.  I am currently running W10 but have linux and MacOS boxes also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Essentially I want a hdmi/vga to USB converter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NL8OQK/?coliid=I2H8TJTF6FSJ3A&amp;colid=XO7UDK2DFTFK&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I want one somebody has used." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32428" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="4af0e057-9f99-4b64-ad43-5ad7e1ebc15a" CreationDate="2018-09-27T16:50:14.350" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32432" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9775" RevisionGUID="3d91d780-36c7-4ca1-a071-786c5a0228a3" CreationDate="2018-09-27T17:13:44.860" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9804" RevisionGUID="190555fd-1817-4cc4-ad57-92c7154a99e0" CreationDate="2018-09-27T20:58:43.717" UserId="9876" Text="I was searching the web for days now and just couldn't find what I am looking for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to make a remote control for an adressable RGB LED strip using a single knob. It will be controlled by an arduino. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something that detects rotation as well as pressing down and pressing up/down left/right. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will illustrate the possible movements I would like to have this. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/S31gA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9804" RevisionGUID="190555fd-1817-4cc4-ad57-92c7154a99e0" CreationDate="2018-09-27T20:58:43.717" UserId="9876" Text="incremental encoder with added joystick functionality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9804" RevisionGUID="190555fd-1817-4cc4-ad57-92c7154a99e0" CreationDate="2018-09-27T20:58:43.717" UserId="9876" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9805" RevisionGUID="df3fbd18-cedd-4d75-b502-9c536231a11c" CreationDate="2018-09-27T21:30:38.300" UserId="9877" Text="I originally asked this question on AskUbuntu, but I haven't gotten any replies so I figured I'd also ask here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to set up an e-mail server with Ubuntu Server, although I am open to alternate operating systems if you have any suggestions that may perform better for my use case. I will have some 19,000+ devices using it to send and receive e-mail. The majority of these devices will probably not be heavily used, as only a few of our clients use the e-mail feature in these devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the recommendation of another StackExchange user, I will likely be setting up virtual mailboxes for these devices to cut down on resource usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My planned software stack for the mail server will be Postfix, Dovecot, and MySQL. If there are alternatives that would perform better for my use case, please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current usage data I have from our old system shows about 14GB of data across 7,684 messages received and 22GB of data across 11,321 messages delivered per week, adding up to around 56GB across 30,736 messages and 88GB across 45,284 messages received and delivered per month, respectively. As a rough estimate, I would say that the server will probably be sending/receiving around 100 to 200 GB across around 100,000 messages per month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need a large amount of storage per mailbox. The devices receiving mail will only be looking at the messages once to parse them for simple text-based commands. Sent mail does not need to be stored on the server at all, and received mail will be deleted from the server as soon as it's processed by the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on these figures, I would like to know what the minimum system requirements would be for the server to be able to handle this volume of messages/data smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9805" RevisionGUID="df3fbd18-cedd-4d75-b502-9c536231a11c" CreationDate="2018-09-27T21:30:38.300" UserId="9877" Text="System requirements for e-mail server processing 100 to 200 GB of e-mail per month" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9805" RevisionGUID="df3fbd18-cedd-4d75-b502-9c536231a11c" CreationDate="2018-09-27T21:30:38.300" UserId="9877" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9806" RevisionGUID="fdd3f13b-80b6-451d-a7de-78a06f56bb81" CreationDate="2018-09-27T21:45:11.490" UserId="6089" Text="I used &quot;six axis joystick with rotation&quot; as the search terms and came up with an open-source resource from the [UNMND web site][1]. It appeals to me because I like to build stuff and this one is very much a home-build type of project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![6-axis joystick image][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 3dconnexion SpacePilot Pro which has the requirements you describe, but it is fairly expensive and may not necessarily link to an arduino or pi board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My search found very little else suitable for your objective.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.unmnd.com/6-axis-joystick.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPca9.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32440" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="93c7672e-ae7c-4c37-9b60-c2da1267e4c4" CreationDate="2018-09-27T22:01:36.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32447" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1487" RevisionGUID="c1d7dfb9-e22f-46a8-aa81-088cec2f960d" CreationDate="2018-09-28T11:32:22.957" UserId="1072" Comment="deleted 91 characters in body" Text="I need to purchase a new Mac to run Final Cut Pro X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- We plan to use FCPX to edit video of our weekly church service shot by 3 cameras.&#xD;&#xA;- Sound will come directly from the sound board.&#xD;&#xA;- I don't expect we'll use much in the way of filters/effects, etc. (This is new territory for me so I don't know for sure if that's accurate.)&#xD;&#xA;- The final videos will be high definition.&#xD;&#xA;- The video will be posted online and in the future we intend to stream the video live to a remote campus and are considering the possibility of using a QuickTime server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on my research, I understand the importance of hardware components for this workflow to be in this order:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Video card/Amount of VRAM&#xD;&#xA;2. Storage speed&#xD;&#xA;3. Processor speed&#xD;&#xA;4. Amount of system memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems obvious the &quot;best&quot; setup would be a Mac Pro (currently $2999+ without a display).  But with a not-for-profit budget, if I don't have to spend $4000 for a complete setup I'd rather not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assume an an iMac with these specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 3.2GHz quad-core Intel Core i5 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz)&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB (two 4GB) memory, configurable up to 32GB&#xD;&#xA;- 1TB Fusion Drive&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Radeon R9 M390 with 2GB video memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would FCPX used as I describe above on these specs of an iMac make for a lot of waiting on the system while editing?  Should I be looking at something different in hardware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9808" RevisionGUID="91c825c2-5147-4442-a4e2-21b75acf2234" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:17:53.593" UserId="9882" Text="I regularly need to test our hardware products. Usually that consists of having ~50 devices sitting on a bench for some time from 1 day to 14 days. Often we have a wifi connection to the device, so we use this comms channel to manage testing. Each time I do this testing I have to do some kind of bringup (e.g. onboarding onto the wifi network) to be able to talk to each device and manage the testing. This can be cumbersome and time consuming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to have a router or other piece of hardware that allows me to assign a given IP to the host at a given port. That will allow me to plug an ethernet cable in and know what IP the device is at.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend some hardware that would solve this problem?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32452" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9808" RevisionGUID="91c825c2-5147-4442-a4e2-21b75acf2234" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:17:53.593" UserId="9882" Text="Networking hardware that allows configuration of IP for each port" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32453" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9808" RevisionGUID="91c825c2-5147-4442-a4e2-21b75acf2234" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:17:53.593" UserId="9882" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32454" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="ad0caf57-3342-4bf8-98a2-f4dda61e9fd1" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:20:38.513" UserId="1004" Comment="[Edit removed during grace period]" Text="SFP GBIC copper Ethernet option for an HP Gigabit Server Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9810" RevisionGUID="ae0eba7b-ec5e-439e-b8b9-01d65d69e921" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:41:11.623" UserId="57" Text="You can do this with a managed switch. My personal experience is only with small/medium business managed switches, but either the [ProSafe M5300-28GF3: 24-port Gigabit SFP Managed L3 Switch (GSM7328FS v2)][1] (~$1500) or the [NETGEAR ProSAFE 48-Port Gigabit Managed Switch Layer 2+ With Static L3 Routing (GSM7248)][2] (~$450) can do this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Documentation on how to handle this from the [CLI][3] and the [web UI][4] is available on the Netgear knowledge base.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example from the CLI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) #config&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) (Config)#interface 1/0/2&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) (Interface 1/0/2)#routing&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) (Interface 1/0/2)#ip address 192.150.2.1 255.255.255.0&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) (Interface 1/0/2)#exit&#xD;&#xA;    (Netgear Switch) (Config)#exit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will set the IP address of interface `1/0/2` to be `192.150.2.1`. This does not require that you know the MAC address of the device ahead of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122511&#xD;&#xA; [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122079&#xD;&#xA; [3]: https://kb.netgear.com/21663/How-do-I-enable-routing-and-assign-IP-addresses-for-ports-1-0-2-and-1-0-3-using-CLI-commands-on-my-managed-switch&#xD;&#xA; [4]: https://kb.netgear.com/21664/How-do-I-enable-routing-and-assigning-IP-addresses-for-ports-1-0-2-and-1-0-3-using-the-web-interface-on-my-managed-switch&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="5665b44c-b510-4bd1-92ba-1f836f6b3b6f" CreationDate="2018-09-28T15:01:40.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="4447f4d1-491f-42b1-a8a3-90fad45b13d5" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:01:33.343" UserId="951" Text="The closest solution to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA's Jetson][5]. It's dedicated to deep learning, but it's the whole Dev Kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make more of a server for AI, I would still look at the RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the DL framework / library you'll use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="2e232c9a-6573-491a-9226-67d8bfe1a209" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:07:01.573" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest solution to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA's Jetson][5]. It's dedicated to deep learning, but it's the whole Dev Kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32466" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="9af461ce-6f9e-4978-8128-e52f2896318d" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:33:59.717" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA's Jetson][5]. It's dedicated to deep learning, but it's the whole Dev Kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="a11f9292-d9af-4152-b138-a196e41b46bc" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:43:03.763" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA Jetson][5]. It looks to be designed for ML / AI in robotics, as an end-to-end solution (as opposed to agent communicating with server). It's a dev kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, adding to the list&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32468" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9771" RevisionGUID="289a3f04-8d76-4fcc-a926-b666f5105d7e" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:45:15.570" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32470" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="1f8bb6a3-fcaf-4bfa-b034-fad144446b52" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:52:47.007" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. If you're buying for a larger institution, take a look at [data center solution][5] based on Tesla V100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA Jetson][6]. It looks to be designed for ML / AI in robotics, as an end-to-end solution (as opposed to agent communicating with server). It's a dev kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, adding to the wish-list couple of other projects to keep an eye on:&#xD;&#xA;[This Brain-Inspired Microchip by stanford][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/dgx-1/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://gizmodo.com/this-brain-inspired-microchip-is-9-000-times-faster-tha-1569176926?utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_source=gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_medium=socialflow" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="dbf9f450-eb8a-4270-9c07-74b95b8919ce" CreationDate="2018-09-28T20:59:10.347" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. If you're buying for a larger institution, take a look at [data center solution][5] based on Tesla V100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA Jetson][6]. It looks to be designed for ML / AI in robotics, as an end-to-end solution (as opposed to agent communicating with server). It's a dev kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use. Also, as mentioned by user9313, the cloud is already a viable option, not only Google [1][8],[2][9] but also Microsoft has good [APIs][10] and even [cloud IDE][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, adding to the wish-list couple of other projects to keep an eye on:&#xD;&#xA;[This Brain-Inspired Microchip by stanford][12]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/dgx-1/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://cloud.google.com/solutions/ai/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://cloud.google.com/ml-engine/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/cognitive-services/&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/machine-learning-studio/&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://gizmodo.com/this-brain-inspired-microchip-is-9-000-times-faster-tha-1569176926?utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_source=gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_medium=socialflow" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32472" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="c7f6c163-d9b0-4d2c-bf35-3019a0946a8a" CreationDate="2018-09-28T21:08:30.053" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. If you're buying for a larger institution, take a look at [data center solution][5] based on Tesla V100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA Jetson][6]. It looks to be designed for ML / AI in robotics, as an end-to-end solution (as opposed to agent communicating with server). It's a dev kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use. Also, as mentioned by user9313, the cloud is already a viable option, not only Google [1][8],[2][9] but also Microsoft has good [APIs][10] and even [cloud IDE][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, adding to the wish-list other projects to keep an eye on:&#xD;&#xA;[Brain-Inspired Microchip by stanford][12]&#xD;&#xA;[IBMs 'True North'][14]&#xD;&#xA;[IBMs stochastic neuron][13]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/dgx-1/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://cloud.google.com/solutions/ai/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://cloud.google.com/ml-engine/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/cognitive-services/&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/machine-learning-studio/&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://gizmodo.com/this-brain-inspired-microchip-is-9-000-times-faster-tha-1569176926?utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_source=gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_medium=socialflow&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://singularityhub.com/2016/08/14/ibms-new-artificial-neurons-a-big-step-toward-brain-like-computers/#sm.00001qm7jv81hyepoygytu3eanrui&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://www.engadget.com/2015/08/17/ibm-wires-up-neuromorphic-chips-like-a-rodents-brain/?guccounter=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32473" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9812" RevisionGUID="46621952-baf9-4597-ab2d-26d153c8b118" CreationDate="2018-09-28T21:17:12.723" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 14 characters in body" Text="The closest to what you are asking is [NVIDIA Tesla][1] - it's dedicated, does not have even single DP / HDMI output, it's power efficient and is optimized for 'AI'. See [NVIDIA Tesla T4][2], [NVIDIA Tesla V100][3], [NVIDIA Tesla P100][4], [NVIDIA Tesla P4/P40][2]. Whether it's most cost efficient depends on many factors. If you're buying for a larger institution, take a look at [data center solution][5] based on Tesla V100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second candidate would be [NVIDIA Jetson][6]. It looks to be designed for ML / AI in robotics, as an end-to-end solution (as opposed to agent communicating with server). It's a dev kit, including ARM CPU, GPU, RAM, eMMC storage and 2 DeepLearning accelerators, at a price tag of 2.5k $ (but it's small!). &#xD;&#xA;I could not find any benchmarks, but they state, that it's 20 times faster and draws 1/10 of electricity than it's predecessor, NVIDIA JETSON TX 2, which was benchmarked ex. [here][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, it really depends on your use cases - if you will profit from it's modularity, dont' have any other hardware bought for the setup and will use it as embeded (like you'd use RaspberryPi), that NVIDIA's Jetson is perfect. If you want to make a server for AI, I would consider RTX 2080/2080ti as user9313 suggests and NVIDIA Tesla line, and peak whichever is most cost efficient for you - which is impossible to say without knowing the framework / library you'll use. Also, as mentioned by user9313, the cloud is already a viable option, not only Google [1][8],[2][9] but also Microsoft has good [APIs][10] and even [cloud IDE][11].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, adding to the wish-list other projects to keep an eye on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Brain-Inspired Microchip by stanford][12]&#xD;&#xA;- [IBMs 'True North'][13]&#xD;&#xA;- [Graphcore][15]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nvidia_Tesla&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/deep-learning-ai/solutions/inference-platform/hpc/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-v100/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/tesla-p100/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/data-center/dgx-1/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://developer.nvidia.com/embedded/buy/jetson-xavier-devkit&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=march-2017-arm&amp;num=2&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://cloud.google.com/solutions/ai/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://cloud.google.com/ml-engine/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/cognitive-services/&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://azure.microsoft.com/pl-pl/services/machine-learning-studio/&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://gizmodo.com/this-brain-inspired-microchip-is-9-000-times-faster-tha-1569176926?utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_source=gizmodo_facebook&amp;utm_medium=socialflow&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://www.engadget.com/2015/08/17/ibm-wires-up-neuromorphic-chips-like-a-rodents-brain/?guccounter=1&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://www.graphcore.ai/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9813" RevisionGUID="9e27fe13-18d3-4b41-9e85-5dc0c4c6a478" CreationDate="2018-09-28T22:32:49.027" UserId="951" Text="I would aim to build the rig that would be easy to extend in the future by adding more RAM, SSD storage, graphics card, changing CPU for stronger and what not. Therefore, the Mo-Bo (Motherboard) is the most important component. It will either provide additional connectivity, multiple PCI-e lanes and modern CPU family, or you will have to throw it away when upgrading anything. The CPU family is a thread in itself: would you like to go red or blue (AMD/Intel)? Which generation? This dictates the Mo-Bo choice. But I will try recomending couple of things.&#xD;&#xA;Just looking at [logicalincrements][1] and swaping the GPU for better storage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Ryzen 5 1500X - it has a nice 140-ish $ price tag, 4 threads, [very good overall performance][2], comes with stock cooler and the platform on Mo-Bo for Ryzen will let you upgrade in the future to ex. used Ryzen 7. &#xD;&#xA;- MSI B450-A Pro - just a Mo-Bo. Keep an eye for: M2 slot or slots, with NVMe support (superior speeds), USB 3.1 support, number of USB ports, chipset, RAM slots no. - prefer 4 and audio card. &#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - single stick. Do not go with 2 * 4 GB - you have 2 or 4 slots for RAM, so upgrading would be possible only to 16 GB vs 32.&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2  or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG (cheaper) these are not your usual SSD - they are couple of times faster, and disk I/O is the most time consuming for developpers. Go with big one drive at the beginning, and buy other traditional SSD drives or HDD for archiving later.&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - unfortunatly, Ryzen has no integrated GPU, so just buy used &#xD;&#xA;GTX 960 or 1060 for 100-150$ and you will even have decent gaming experience on most titles in 1080p. Or go cheap and buy anything that lets you plug DP / HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was team Red. Now Intel build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - the same: Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2 or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - none (!). You save buck here and have empty slot for future. Nice.&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - obviously&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now for the fun part: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU - Intel i5-8600 3.10GHz 9MB. It has 6 physical (!) cores and costs around 240$. It has a neat Intel UHD Graphics 630 integrated, though it has 4-7 times lower performance than the ones suggested in Red build. But you can always buy dedicated GPU, would you like to play some new tripple A titles. If money are  the issue here consider i3-8350. These CPU come also with stock cooler.&#xD;&#xA;- Mo-Bo: ex. MSI Z370-A PRO. But as usual: take into account: 4 slots for RAM, M2 slot with NVMe support, USB ports number and version, audio card and chipset. If you do not plan on overclocking consider chipset H370 like in ASRock H370 Pro4. As you can see, the 8th generation of Intel processors is complemented by 3xx Mo-Bos. The higher the letter (B, H, Z) the better the chipset is = the more PCI-e lanes you have and more customizable the build is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32476" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9813" RevisionGUID="a7132137-601b-4af5-acee-ab2e65a60de9" CreationDate="2018-09-28T22:42:08.787" UserId="951" Comment="added 106 characters in body" Text="I would aim to build the rig that would be easy to extend in the future by adding more RAM, SSD storage, graphics card, changing CPU for stronger and what not. Therefore, the Mo-Bo (Motherboard) is the most important component. It will either provide additional connectivity, multiple PCI-e lanes and modern CPU family, or you will have to throw it away when upgrading anything. The CPU family is a thread in itself: would you like to go red or blue (AMD/Intel)? Which generation? This dictates the Mo-Bo choice. But I will try recomending couple of things.&#xD;&#xA;Just looking at [logicalincrements][1] and swaping the GPU for better storage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Ryzen 5 1500X - it has a nice 140-ish $ price tag, 4 threads, [very good overall performance][2], comes with stock cooler and the platform on Mo-Bo for Ryzen will let you upgrade in the future to ex. used Ryzen 7. &#xD;&#xA;- MSI B450-A Pro - just a Mo-Bo. Keep an eye for: M2 slot or slots, with NVMe support (superior speeds), USB 3.1 support and type-C, number of USB ports, chipset, RAM slots no. (prefer 4) and audio quality. &#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - single stick. Do not go with 2 * 4 GB - you have 2 or 4 slots for RAM (hopefully 4), so upgrading would be possible only to 16 GB vs 32GB.&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2  or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG (cheaper) - these are not your usual SSD - they are couple of times faster, as disk I/O is the no.1 bottleneck for developpers. Go with good one drive at the beginning for OS and critical apps, and buy other traditional SSD drives or HDD for archiving later. Drives scale very well - having more not only increases storage, but also I/O times, even without RAID.&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - unfortunatly, Ryzen has no integrated GPU, so just buy used &#xD;&#xA;GTX 960 or 1060 for 100-150$ and you will even have decent gaming experience on most titles in 1080p. Or go cheap and buy anything that lets you plug DP / HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was team Red. Now Intel build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - the same: Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2 or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - none (!). You save buck here and have empty slot for future. Nice.&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - obviously&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now for the fun part: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU - Intel i5-8600 3.10GHz 9MB. It has 6 physical (!) cores and costs around 240$. CPU is the no. 2 bottleneck for dev work, so you will appreciate this CPU a lot. It has a neat Intel UHD Graphics 630 integrated, though this GPU has 4-7 times lowe performance than the ones suggested in Red build. But you can always buy dedicated GPU, would you like to play some new tripple A titles. If money are  the issue here consider i3-8350. Both CPUs come with stock cooler.&#xD;&#xA;- Mo-Bo: ex. MSI Z370-A PRO. But as usual: take into account: 4 slots for RAM, M2 slot with NVMe support, USB ports number and version, audio card and chipset. If you do not plan on overclocking consider chipset H370 like in ASRock H370 Pro4. As you can see, the 8th generation of Intel processors is complemented by 3xx Mo-Bos. The higher the letter (B, H, Z) the better the chipset is = the more PCI-e lanes you have and more customizable the build is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32477" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9813" RevisionGUID="224501e4-2900-4540-8591-c4233fe34a72" CreationDate="2018-09-28T23:07:44.470" UserId="951" Comment="added 564 characters in body" Text="I would aim to build the rig that would be easy to extend in the future by adding more RAM, SSD storage, graphics card, changing CPU for stronger and what not. Therefore, the Mo-Bo (Motherboard) is the most important component. It will either provide additional connectivity, multiple PCI-e lanes and modern CPU family, or you will have to throw it away when upgrading anything. The CPU family is a thread in itself: would you like to go red or blue (AMD/Intel)? Which generation? This dictates the Mo-Bo choice. But I will try recomending couple of things.&#xD;&#xA;Just looking at [logicalincrements][1] and swaping the GPU for better storage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Ryzen 5 1500X - it has a nice 150-ish $ price tag, 4 threads, [very good overall performance][2], comes with stock cooler and the platform on Mo-Bo for Ryzen will let you upgrade in the future to ex. used Ryzen 7. &#xD;&#xA;- MSI B450-A Pro - very decent Mo-Bo. Keep an eye for: M2 slot or slots, with NVMe support (superior speeds), USB 3.1 support and type-C, number of USB ports, chipset, RAM slots no. (prefer 4) and audio quality. &#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - single stick. Do not go with 2 * 4 GB - you have 2 or 4 slots for RAM (hopefully 4), so upgrading would be possible only to 16 GB vs 32GB. (~80$)&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2  or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG (cheaper) - these are not your usual SSDs - they are couple of times faster, as disk I/O is the no.1 bottleneck for developpers. Go with good one drive at the beginning for OS and critical apps, and buy other traditional SSD drives or HDD for archiving later. Drives scale very well - having more not only increases storage, but also I/O times, even without RAID. (130-180$)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - unfortunatly, Ryzen has no integrated GPU, so just buy used &#xD;&#xA;GTX 960 or 1060 for 100-150$ and you will even have decent gaming experience on most titles in 1080p. Or go cheap and buy anything that lets you plug DP / HDMI. Radeon RX 550 is also a good choice - it's cheap, yet you will be able to play more than tetris.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall cost of components from above: 400$ - 550$. If you do not have PSU and case, you'll need at least PSU. Use this calculator to get Wattage when you will decide on components: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator . PSU is quite important so do not go with shady brands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was team Red. Now Intel build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - the same: Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2 or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - none (!). You save buck here and have empty slot for future. Nice.&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now for the fun part: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU - Intel i5-8600 3.10GHz 9MB. It has 6 physical (!) cores and costs around 240$. CPU is the no. 2 bottleneck for dev work, so you will appreciate this CPU a lot. It has a neat Intel UHD Graphics 630 integrated, though this GPU has 4-7 times lowe performance than the ones suggested in Red build. But you can always buy dedicated GPU, would you like to play some new tripple A titles. If money are the issue here consider i3-8350. Both CPUs come with stock cooler.&#xD;&#xA;- Mo-Bo: ex. MSI Z370-A PRO. But as usual: take into account: 4 slots for RAM, M2 slot with NVMe support, USB ports number and version, audio card and chipset. If you do not plan on overclocking consider chipset H370 like in ASRock H370 Pro4. As you can see, the 8th generation of Intel processors is complemented by 3xx Mo-Bos. The higher the letter (B, H, Z) the better the chipset is = the more PCI-e lanes you have and more customizable the build is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Overall cost of components from above: 470$ - 650$. And again - at least PSU. Case can be handy though too. Do not worry buying used case or RAM. Do NOT buy used PSU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32478" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9813" RevisionGUID="3a3b5139-3038-4204-b425-508324a7f105" CreationDate="2018-09-28T23:15:02.160" UserId="951" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I would aim to build the rig that would be easy to extend in the future by adding more RAM, SSD storage, graphics card, changing CPU for stronger and what not. Therefore, the Mo-Bo (Motherboard) is the most important component. It will either provide additional connectivity, multiple PCI-e lanes and modern CPU family, or you will have to throw it away when upgrading anything. The CPU family is a thread in itself: would you like to go red or blue (AMD/Intel)? Which generation? This dictates the Mo-Bo choice. But I will try recomending couple of things. &#xD;&#xA;Just looking at [logicalincrements][1] and swaping the GPU for better storage:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD Ryzen 5 1500X - it has a nice 150-ish $ price tag, 4 threads, [very good overall performance][2], comes with stock cooler and the platform on Mo-Bo for Ryzen will let you upgrade in the future to ex. used Ryzen 7. &#xD;&#xA;- MSI B450-A Pro - very decent Mo-Bo. Or even cheaper MSI B350 PC MATE. Also good. Keep an eye for: M2 slot or slots, with NVMe support (superior speeds), USB 3.1 support and type-C, number of USB ports, chipset, RAM slots no. (prefer 4) and audio quality. &#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram - single stick. Unless you really really need 16 Gigs of RAM ASAP, I'd try living for some time with just 8 and buying more later, when it's cheaper, and having better SSD. RAM is probably the easiest component to add to a PC.  Do not go with 2 * 4 GB - you have 2 or 4 slots for RAM (hopefully 4), so upgrading would be possible only to 16 GB vs 32GB. (~80$)&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2  or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG (cheaper) - these are not your usual SSDs - they are couple of times faster, as disk I/O is the no.1 bottleneck for developpers. Go with good one drive at the beginning for OS and critical apps, and buy other traditional SSD drives or HDD for archiving later. Drives scale very well - having more not only increases storage, but also I/O times, even without RAID. (130-180$)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - unfortunatly, Ryzen has no integrated GPU, so just buy used &#xD;&#xA;GTX 960 or 1060 for 100-150$ and you will even have decent gaming experience on most titles in 1080p. Or go cheap and buy anything that lets you plug DP / HDMI. Radeon RX 550 is also a good choice - it's cheap, yet you will be able to play more than tetris.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall cost of components from above: 400$ - 550$. If you do not have PSU and case, you'll need at least PSU. Use this calculator to get Wattage when you will decide on components: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator . PSU is quite important so do not go with shady brands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was team Red. Now Intel build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SSD - the same: Samsung 500GB 970 EVO M.2 or ADATA 480GB M.2 PCIe XPG&#xD;&#xA;- GPU - none (!). You save buck here and have empty slot for future. Nice.&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now for the fun part: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU - Intel i5-8600 3.10GHz 9MB. It has 6 physical (!) cores and costs around 240$. CPU is the no. 2 bottleneck for dev work, so you will appreciate this CPU a lot. It has a neat Intel UHD Graphics 630 integrated, though this GPU has 4-7 times lowe performance than the ones suggested in Red build. But you can always buy dedicated GPU, would you like to play some new tripple A titles. If money are the issue here consider i3-8350. Both CPUs come with stock cooler.&#xD;&#xA;- Mo-Bo: ex. MSI Z370-A PRO. But as usual: take into account: 4 slots for RAM, M2 slot with NVMe support, USB ports number and version, audio card and chipset. If you do not plan on overclocking consider chipset H370 like in ASRock H370 Pro4. As you can see, the 8th generation of Intel processors is complemented by 3xx Mo-Bos. The higher the letter (B, H, Z) the better the chipset is = the more PCI-e lanes you have and more customizable the build is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Overall cost of components from above: 470$ - 650$. And again - at least PSU. Case can be handy though too. Do not worry buying used case or RAM. Do NOT buy used PSU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logicalincrements.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32482" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="faf58a3b-0c50-438b-9e8b-fe69c0ba12c5" CreationDate="2018-09-29T04:00:15.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9814" RevisionGUID="26b5ee6c-6507-497c-8e58-e984a19709d1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T11:22:37.613" UserId="9861" Text="I got a 22&quot; monitor in my bed (it is hanged on the wall), it is connected to the computer using a HDMI cable, which can carry sound signal too. My problem is that my monitor doesn't have an audio out connector, so I can't plug my headphones in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And then, I need a device that can take the HDMI signal and split it in two:&#xD;&#xA;- send the HDMI signal to the monitor&#xD;&#xA;- provide an audio out 3.5 mm socket so I can connect my headphones in it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and then, the device should contain the following connectors:&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI in, to recieve the signal from the computer&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI out to connect to the monitor - or simply a short HDMI plug&#xD;&#xA;- stereo 3.5 mm audio socket so I can connect my headphones in it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device should be small enough so I can stick it to the back of the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any device like this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, then I probably need a computer monitor with audio out - this should be a common feature already, since the monitors with HDMI can already receive audio signals, so they should also offer that signal using an audio out connector." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32484" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9814" RevisionGUID="26b5ee6c-6507-497c-8e58-e984a19709d1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T11:22:37.613" UserId="9861" Text="HDMI splitter with audio out" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32485" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9814" RevisionGUID="26b5ee6c-6507-497c-8e58-e984a19709d1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T11:22:37.613" UserId="9861" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32486" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="e6c02668-1de9-412a-999e-ebaed3702fd1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T14:01:36.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32487" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2422" RevisionGUID="6c6943e0-243a-472c-8e1e-c63dd9c3e2e0" CreationDate="2018-09-29T19:23:55.213" UserId="2159" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="Several unresolved questions have been made in various online forums looking for any options that may exist for a USB to Ethernet adapter that supports multiple VLANs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Past questions have often been sidetracked due to confusion as to what is being asked for.  The requirement here involves advanced Ethernet networking and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q&quot;&gt;802.1q&lt;/a&gt; standard / VLAN trunking - something that is typically not used in home or small-office networking.  This is something that would be more suited to the enterprise, or possibly someone working towards a networking certification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intent for this question is to act as a central source, and which can hopefully be cross-linked to with all other related posts.  Once a suitable solution is found or developed, an answer posted here will hopefully benefit everyone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related questions include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1706/usb-to-ethernet-adapter-supporting-vlan&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/3lzfuh/multiple_vlans_on_one_nic_in_windows_xpost_from/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934 (Various replies within)&#xD;&#xA;  - https://superuser.com/questions/291414/usb-ethernet-adapter-with-vlan-support-available&#xD;&#xA;  - https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc708341%28v=ws.10%29.aspx&#xD;&#xA;    - See the 2012-02-02 comment regarding VLAN ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Anyone please feel free to edit and add additional links as they are discovered.)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there are 2 issues here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provides a Windows driver (for any version of Windows) with multiple VLAN support.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &lt;s&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers.&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that what we are looking for here is a bugger to search by - as even &quot;802.1q&quot; and &quot;VLAN&quot; aren't even good enough search terms. (We not only need &quot;tagging&quot;, but also &quot;trunking&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(An attempt is being made to write this question in 3rd-person, assuming that it may become Community Wiki.  Please feel free to edit and contribute!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;No known USB-to-Ethernet adapters that provide a Windows driver with multiple VLAN support.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take, for example, a StartTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter NIC with USB Port (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECQZM1A/).  It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&amp;PItemID=131;71;112&quot;&gt;ASIX AX88179 Gigabit Ethernet Controller.&lt;/a&gt;  Listed features include &quot;IEEE 802.1Q VLAN Tagging support&quot;.  This is what the related properties of the installed driver (1.16.11.0 / 2014-01-24) look like under Windows 8.1:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGO.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/R7MGOm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/P9WVGm.png&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is missing is any sort of trunking support / virtual miniport driver - such as the additional capabilities provided by the full driver installs of the Intel Advanced Networking Suite (iANS), the Broadcom Advanced Server Program (BASP), or the Realtek Teaming or Realtek Ethernet Diagnostic Utility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is, we could configure a switch port to provide access to multiple VLANs, and configure this adapter to choose which VLAN to be a part of - from the client device, not the switch.  Or we could add another unmanaged switch with access to the multiple VLANs, then use multiple of these or similar adapters - configuring each one to be on a different VLAN.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (link broken, but [still available through the Internet Archive][1] - please update if anyone can find a relocated copy):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150928123140im_/http://www.gns3.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/USB-to-Ethernet-lab-400x300.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yikes!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With proper trunking support, however - everything could be done with one switch port, one wire, and one adapter - very efficient, convenient, and economical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/users/45647/flexo&quot;&gt;@Flexo&lt;/a&gt; had noted, full 802.1 support is practically guaranteed to be available under Linux as long as the adapter works, as Linux provides all of the VLAN support by itself as standard feature of the kernel.  Windows, however, doesn't provide these services itself, and depends upon a vendor-provided driver package (e.g. iANS or BASP) to provide them instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it looks like we're not aware of any USB Ethernet adapter that provides such a driver package for Windows, nor have we seen Intel or Broadcom creating any USB Ethernet adapters of their own that would compare to their internal components.  (Hint, hint!  Build it, and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/shut-up-and-take-my-money&quot;&gt;take our money&lt;/a&gt;!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One example from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I  have the full capabilities on an aging (Dell Latitude E6500) laptop, compliments of the Intel chipset (82567LM) and driver (very similar to @bwilliot).   I would be very anxious to find a current replacement for this functionality as well - especially for usage with devices like the Microsoft Surface Pro 3 or 4. (The Ethernet controllers provided on the Surface Pro 3 or 4 docking stations are no better than the ASIX AX88179 - I checked.  It is also internally connected off of the USB, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Broken support in Windows 10 for trunking support / virtual miniport drivers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.reddit.com/r/networking/comments/3ghnvj/windows_10_realtek_vlans_disabled/&#xD;&#xA;  - https://communities.intel.com/thread/77934&#xD;&#xA;    - New supporting driver released on 2017-02-17 (following dependent Windows Updates).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Work Arounds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, using the Virtual Switch Manager in Hyper-V _might_ be a way to support this under Windows 10 (similar to the above link) - but requires a new enough CPU to support the Hyper-V hypervisor.  Additionally, running Hyper-V at the same time as VMware or VirtualBox is not supported, and doesn't currently work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One ugly work-around from @ziesemer:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Previously, I was running a minimal OpenWrt in VirtualBox as an ugly work-around.  Directly bind / bridge the one virtual network adapter to the physical LAN, then bridge additional network adapters to additional Host-only Networks within VirtualBox.  Obviously, this creates quite a bit of overhead, slows everything down, and the virtual network adapters don't support advanced features such as Jumbo Frames.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://web.archive.org/web/20150929082108/https://www.gns3.net/articles/ccie-routing-switching-lab/usb-to-ethernet-network-adapters-option/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32488" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="feea7773-710a-4776-bcfa-2d2f42ed12e6" CreationDate="2018-09-29T20:05:08.170" UserId="9887" Text="I'm looking for a keycap set with semitranslucent keys. Let me explain this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originally I was looking for a blank keycap set. However, I have a backlit keyboard, so this felt kind of like a waste of a great feature. So I was looking for translucent keycap sets, however they didn't look very well. Then I thought of keys that look just like my normal keycaps (i.e. only the letter is translucent) but with something like dots instead of the letters. Then I'd still have the blank style and use the backlight and it would hopefully look well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I was unable to find something similiar in the internet, which astonished me, as there generally is a pretty wide selection of keycap sets out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32489" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="feea7773-710a-4776-bcfa-2d2f42ed12e6" CreationDate="2018-09-29T20:05:08.170" UserId="9887" Text="Semitranslucent keycap set" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32490" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="feea7773-710a-4776-bcfa-2d2f42ed12e6" CreationDate="2018-09-29T20:05:08.170" UserId="9887" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32491" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="b16801da-2a73-41a9-91dd-9443a68ebf1b" CreationDate="2018-09-30T01:00:19.850" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32492" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="463c5c3b-0850-487f-bb7a-cb89ba0499e0" CreationDate="2018-09-30T02:00:04.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32493" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="f106bd08-079e-4ddb-8987-2bf7294aa88f" CreationDate="2018-09-30T03:02:23.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32494" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="e71dbce5-19c8-4f4a-9e0f-cae175417b3c" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:01:52.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9816" RevisionGUID="3b040752-f3da-45d8-92f5-5d4b5254b607" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:15:11.733" UserId="9891" Text="Is the production year really a requirement for running the newest os with the newest xcode? Shouldn't it be enough fulfilling the hardware requirements such as cpu, ram, hdd, etc? If I in theory buy a mac from 2008 with the same hardware as a mac from 2016 will I really not be able to upgrade to the most recent os just because of the production year?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9816" RevisionGUID="3b040752-f3da-45d8-92f5-5d4b5254b607" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:15:11.733" UserId="9891" Text="Why is the production year of a mac relevant?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9816" RevisionGUID="3b040752-f3da-45d8-92f5-5d4b5254b607" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:15:11.733" UserId="9891" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32501" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9687" RevisionGUID="629dadb1-f311-4af5-bbaa-8e5da669757c" CreationDate="2018-09-30T10:01:33.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9819" RevisionGUID="c194716f-224c-419d-a6b1-cf4f15b9dc27" CreationDate="2018-09-30T10:53:07.307" UserId="9782" Text="If you could get in theory get a mac with exact the same specifications, it wouldn't be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see two intel CPUs with at least some similarities (I don't know if the second was used in a mac, but I doubt it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A intel CPU produced in 2008 **Intel Core 2 Extreme Q9000** 4 Cores, 2.0GHz, 45nm, 6MB Cache&#xD;&#xA; - A intel CPU produced in 2016 **Intel Xeon E3-1578L v5** 4 Cores, 2.00GHz, 14nm, 8MB Cache&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;although the number of cores and and the base clock speed is the same, the newer CPU is more efficient (8 Threads, Turbo speed of 3.4GHz, integrated Graphics, smaller Lithography) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason newer OSX do not run on older macs is that the required drivers are not included in the OS or if they are, the OS requires higher CPU speed, or....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As time goes on apps/OS/etc. require faster CPUs, more Memory, better graphics, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9820" RevisionGUID="425200c7-3ac3-470b-9b34-5c12e8fdbabc" CreationDate="2018-09-30T11:03:41.910" UserId="9782" Text="You'd probably need a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *HDMI to HDMI + Audio* like [this](https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072).&#xD;&#xA; - This one should be coupled with a *RCA Male to 3.5mm* adapter [example](https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538305181&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=analog+to+aux).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;with this setup you also need **two** HDMI cables." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32505" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9821" RevisionGUID="761732aa-082a-400a-9f61-9610d2078915" CreationDate="2018-09-30T16:24:37.273" UserId="9895" Text="OK, three part answers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unaware of SPF(+) to copper interfaces. That does not mean that they do not exits.   &#xD;&#xA;If they do exist then compatability is not a guarantee, so a call to HP is probably a good idea. If only to get an article number to search further on, since I expect the HP price to be 'not low'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the goal that you just need two additional 1 GbE ports:  &#xD;&#xA;Swap the card. PCI-e cards with 2 or even 4 interface to regular copper are common, relative cheap and just work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For future compatability and less down time (e.g. not swapping to a newer card if you get a more capable switch in the next year or two), try regular copper cards with higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are now desktop cards which support old format (100/1000mbit), but also 2&amp;frac12;Gbit, 5Gbit and 10Gbit. Those could be used at the old speed with the current switch, and with a more modern switch you could do higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Some more notes:  &#xD;&#xA;We have at least two generations of these cards already, and that the older ones draw a relative high amount of power. That makes this a trade off between adding a classic 1GBit multiport card now and upgrading later. Or spending a relative large amount now and having less downtime later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern DP proliants (G9 or G10) often come with something called 'flexible LOM', where you can choose for native 10Gbit rather than for a few 1Gbit ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used Dell servers and Intell hardware in the past, but for HP the numbers from &#xD;&#xA;[This post][1] might be relevant. Cut and pasting them to prevent link rot:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://community.hpe.com/t5/Array-Setup-and-Networking/Recommended-10Gb-Ethernet-Adapter-for-HP-Proliant-DL380-servers/td-p/6985670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32506" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9821" RevisionGUID="3a700c2c-1a88-4864-b873-6f9401cdbf80" CreationDate="2018-09-30T16:45:27.863" UserId="9895" Comment="added 929 characters in body" Text="OK, three part answers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unaware of SPF(+) to copper interfaces. That does not mean that they do not exits.   &#xD;&#xA;If they do exist then compatability is not a guarantee, so a call to HP is probably a good idea. If only to get an article number to search further on, since I expect the HP price to be 'not low'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the goal that you just need two additional 1 GbE ports:  &#xD;&#xA;Swap the card. PCI-e cards with 2 or even 4 interface to regular copper are common, relative cheap and just work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For future compatability and less down time (e.g. not swapping to a newer card if you get a more capable switch in the next year or two), try regular copper cards with higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are now desktop cards which support old format (100/1000mbit), but also 2&amp;frac12;Gbit, 5Gbit and 10Gbit. Those could be used at the old speed with the current switch, and with a more modern switch you could do higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Some more notes:  &#xD;&#xA;We have at least two generations of these cards already, and that the older ones draw a relative high amount of power. That makes this a trade off between adding a classic 1GBit multiport card now and upgrading later. Or spending a relative large amount now and having less downtime later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern DP proliants (G9 or G10) often come with something called 'flexible LOM', where you can choose for native 10Gbit rather than for a few 1Gbit ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- deleted. Those were SPF and that was explicitly NOT the question --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick googling finds a few examples of 10Gbit copper, but at not entirely trivial prices.  [![Two examples][1]][1] One of which seems suitable for a server with high internal airflow and no single point of faulure fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And two links to current 1Gbit NICs:&#xD;&#xA;[I/O Crest 4 Port Gigabit Ethernet Intel i350-AM4 Chipset PCI-E X4][2] (Mentions server 2012 support on the box).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quad 1GBit [Intel PRO/1000 VT Quad Port Server Adapter LP PCI-E EXPI9404VT ][3] which is still affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As always: Check what fits. Full height? Low height? Mezzanine? And check if there are drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PmH1z.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://I/O%20Crest%204%20Port%20Gigabit%20Ethernet%20Intel%20i350-AM4%20Chipset%20PCI-E%20X4%20Network%20Interface%20Card%20NIC&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Server-Adapter-EXPI9404VT/dp/B002JLKNIW/ref=pd_sbs_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B002JLKNIW&amp;pd_rd_r=57419414-c4cf-11e8-bcaa-d5dbd61d2792&amp;pd_rd_w=WlqYZ&amp;pd_rd_wg=MKwIQ&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&amp;pf_rd_r=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32507" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9821" RevisionGUID="946bb563-1cec-40bb-89c8-b90ca47dd722" CreationDate="2018-09-30T17:14:27.127" UserId="9895" Comment="Moved multi 1GBit link to the 1Gbit card section." Text="OK, three part answers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unaware of SPF(+) to copper interfaces. That does not mean that they do not exits.   &#xD;&#xA;If they do exist then compatability is not a guarantee, so a call to HP is probably a good idea. If only to get an article number to search further on, since I expect the HP price to be 'not low'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the goal that you just need two additional 1 GbE ports:  &#xD;&#xA;Swap the card. PCI-e cards with 2 or even 4 interface to regular copper are common, relative cheap and just work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I linked to two potential cards, but theere are many more than just these two:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I/O Crest 4 Port Gigabit Ethernet Intel i350-AM4 Chipset PCI-E X4][2]  &#xD;&#xA;Mentions server 2012 support on the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quad 1GBit [Intel PRO/1000 VT Quad Port Server Adapter LP PCI-E EXPI9404VT ][3]  &#xD;&#xA;2 more ports and is still affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For future compatability and less down time (e.g. not swapping to a newer card if you get a more capable switch in the next year or two), try regular copper cards with higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are now desktop cards which support old format (100/1000mbit), but also 2&amp;frac12;Gbit, 5Gbit and 10Gbit. Those could be used at the old speed with the current switch, and with a more modern switch you could do higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Some more notes:  &#xD;&#xA;We have at least two generations of these cards already, and that the older ones draw a relative high amount of power. That makes this a trade off between adding a classic 1GBit multiport card now and upgrading later. Or spending a relative large amount now and having less downtime later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern DP proliants (G9 or G10) often come with something called 'flexible LOM', where you can choose for native 10Gbit rather than for a few 1Gbit ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- deleted. Those were SPF and that was explicitly NOT the question --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick googling finds a few examples of 10Gbit copper, but at not entirely trivial prices.  [![Two examples][1]][1] One of which seems suitable for a server with high internal airflow and no single point of faulure fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And as always: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Check what fits (Full height? Low height?),&#xD;&#xA; - Check for drivers for your OS.&#xD;&#xA; - Check for known compatability issues (sometimes servers are a lot more sensitive)&#xD;&#xA; - And check if you have any special needs. E.g. explicit support for the cards in ESX is something I would mention if you not already told use you used Windows server 2012.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PmH1z.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://I/O%20Crest%204%20Port%20Gigabit%20Ethernet%20Intel%20i350-AM4%20Chipset%20PCI-E%20X4%20Network%20Interface%20Card%20NIC&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Server-Adapter-EXPI9404VT/dp/B002JLKNIW/ref=pd_sbs_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B002JLKNIW&amp;pd_rd_r=57419414-c4cf-11e8-bcaa-d5dbd61d2792&amp;pd_rd_w=WlqYZ&amp;pd_rd_wg=MKwIQ&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&amp;pf_rd_r=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32508" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9761" RevisionGUID="b6d9722b-f4ea-48d4-aa38-260cfa83d4b9" CreationDate="2018-09-30T18:21:55.297" UserId="1004" Comment="76" />
  <row Id="32509" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="6c6bfad8-1044-41ec-8abb-a0fc291caa42" CreationDate="2018-09-30T22:01:27.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9823" RevisionGUID="1966f649-a3f6-42d7-bebf-153c380a31d2" CreationDate="2018-10-01T00:17:43.130" UserId="9861" Text="I got these [Wireless Headphones Panasonic RP-WF830H][1] for using them at the PC and they are not working anymore. I can't tune to find the sound.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These work on RF (Radio Frequency) and they have a tuner integrated in it. I can even tune to a few radio stations with them. I don't need the radio tuner, I just need to use them as headphones and when I bought them, I knew nothing about wireless headphones. At that moment, I had no idea that it contains a radio tuner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I want to buy another wireless headphones and I would like to make sure I won't get into the same problem.&#xD;&#xA;For example I noticed these headphones - [MDR-RF895RK RF Wireless Headphones][2] - how can I make sure they just work and I won't have to waste my time trying to tune the headphones in order to find the sound signal coming from my PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or should I buy Bluetooth wireless headphones? Or maybe infrared wireless headphones? Are they better for using at the PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.panasonic.com/middleeast/en/consumer/home-entertainment/headphones/rp-wf830.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sony.com/pk/electronics/headband-headphones/mdr-rf895rk#product_details_default" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9823" RevisionGUID="1966f649-a3f6-42d7-bebf-153c380a31d2" CreationDate="2018-10-01T00:17:43.130" UserId="9861" Text="Wireless headphones for PC without Radio Tuner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9823" RevisionGUID="1966f649-a3f6-42d7-bebf-153c380a31d2" CreationDate="2018-10-01T00:17:43.130" UserId="9861" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32517" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="935e1f59-51a3-494b-ba2e-1359c3f54934" CreationDate="2018-10-01T04:00:41.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9824" RevisionGUID="bc4771cb-4f50-430d-86ac-6d15c0c1a16e" CreationDate="2018-10-01T04:48:56.103" UserId="9895" Text="While the production year might not be relevant, new features introduced after a certain period might be required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nordis already mentioned CPU efficiency, but if you dive down to components you will also see newer instruction which are only available on newer CPU, more modern firmwares (UEFI) ect. etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of which are not available on older hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the software is compiled to use these then they simply require those features. ... and Apple could mention that in specific jargon and be technically correct.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;But given that this is Apple, and their **average** target audience it makes sense to put it in an easy to understand way, even if it is not 100% technical perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Much in the same way a city might require a car which to be at most 20 years old, but actually mean any car that has a catalytic convertor.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32519" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="31656f19-6d60-44b3-9fa6-a89d730bb775" CreationDate="2018-10-01T05:01:32.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32525" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9529" RevisionGUID="d1e45332-faa3-40b7-a7bc-4158492a2f18" CreationDate="2018-10-01T17:01:56.930" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9825" RevisionGUID="fc06c0a7-9fc7-4585-86ac-897fddd9e808" CreationDate="2018-10-01T19:00:34.497" UserId="9731" Text="Max Products has a variety of keycaps and does [custom keycaps][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On their order page for customization it says: &quot;Upload your design using our print template gives you total control on your own text/icon. We support both Adobe illustrator or Inkscape (SVG) format.&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want: &quot;... keys that look just like my normal keycaps (i.e. only the letter is translucent) but with something like dots instead of the letters.&quot; - it looks like they can do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also manufacture complete working keyboards of various styles and different layouts for different countries. Here's an example of a keyboard with semi-transluscent characters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![PBT Double Shot 104-key Black Top White Translucent Side Wall Backlight Keycap Set][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/products/cherry-mx-keycap/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjtrR.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="acfd7ad8-a9a1-402c-ab84-c2ac3a840e96" CreationDate="2018-10-02T11:18:49.493" UserId="7556" Comment="Add back clarifying questions" Text="I want to upgrade my Lenovo Z500 from 6GB to 8GB of RAM, but all the numbers confuse me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are memory channels? Does dual channel 800 Mhz equal 1600 Mhz? Do I want DDR3 PC3 or PC3L? How many pins? Is brand important?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a screenshot of my current memory configuration: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPKgC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32543" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8742" RevisionGUID="acfd7ad8-a9a1-402c-ab84-c2ac3a840e96" CreationDate="2018-10-02T11:18:49.493" Comment="Proposed by 7556 approved by 203 edit id of 659" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32544" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="69ccebdb-9cc7-42f9-a4fa-56529c2d76a9" CreationDate="2018-10-02T12:51:00.807" UserId="2137" Comment="edited title" Text="Looking for a quality feature phone, with a good camera for use within North America" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32545" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="98db80c8-a269-4416-a8a4-b1b75566e434" CreationDate="2018-10-02T13:16:19.847" UserId="2137" Comment="Additional notes for 2018." Text="For reasons I'll not get into I'm seriously considering dropping my smart phone and purchasing a feature phone for use for at least a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple phone but I'm not completely ready to just give up all features that come standard with all current smart devices.  Specifically, I have a wife and a couple of kids and their is something to be appreciated about having the ability to pull your phone out of your pocket and take a good (enough) photo for family history.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I'm not interested in having a devices that REQUIRES a data plan, has an app store, has a built in GPS, etc.  I'd like just a simple phone with the basics (voice &amp; texting) and a rather decent camera, that can be used with most carriers in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist?  From my own personal research, you have two options.  You can get a sophisticated, capable smartphone with more-than-you-need functionality, or you can get a really, *really* basic phone that does nothing more than offer voice and text and MAYBE an MP3 player baked in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll also say that cost doesn't matter.  I'd rather not spend $600 on a feature phone but if one exists that's a bit rugged (e.g. can realistically work for 3+ years), has an exceptional camera and has a responsive UI... I could probably convince myself into buying said device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT** - October 2018&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I never got that feature phone years ago but that's partly because I never found the one I was looking for. I am still interested in such a phone, if it even exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I changed the title to reflect that it needs to work in &quot;North America&quot; since Canada largely uses the same general technology specifications (as well as I'm aware.)  That said, I'm not opposed to importing a good phone from, say, Japan.  It's my understanding that the Japanese culture generally has an appreciation for feature phones more than western cultures.  If they have phones available that are basically a really good, high quality phone+text+camera setup, I'd gladly import it to the US, assuming it should work with most carriers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9830" RevisionGUID="6c8b28df-0330-4fba-a7ec-daf648b2b7c0" CreationDate="2018-10-02T15:13:04.863" UserId="9897" Text="I want to get a new laptop and I've been making lots of research. I've narrowed my two choices down to two laptops with their processor as intel core i7-7500U and intel core i7-8550U Processor. I'm not sure which is better but i'm assuming i7-8550U will be better because well, it's 8th Gen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the differences between the both of them from intel's website compare. Kindly help me decide which is better. I will be using the laptop for programming, school work and casual gaming(fornite and overwatch). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                         core i7-7500U                              core i7-8550U&#xD;&#xA;#Performance&#xD;&#xA;    # of cores                  2                                          4&#xD;&#xA;    # of threads                4                                          8&#xD;&#xA;    procesor base frequency     2.70GHz                                    1.80GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Max turbo frequency         3.50GHz                                    4.00GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Cache                       4MB smart cache                            8MB smart cache&#xD;&#xA;    Configurable TDP-up frequncy    2.90GHz                                2.00GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Configurable TDP-down           7.5W                                    10.0W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Memory Specification&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type          DDR4-2133,LPDDR3-1866,DDR3L-1600                 DDR4-2400,LPDDR3-2133&#xD;&#xA;#Graphics Specification&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Max Dynamic Frequency    1.05GHz                                 1.15GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Open GL support                   4.5                                  4.4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32550" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9830" RevisionGUID="6c8b28df-0330-4fba-a7ec-daf648b2b7c0" CreationDate="2018-10-02T15:13:04.863" UserId="9897" Text="Which is better: A laptop with intel core i7-7500U Processor OR intel core i7-8550U Processor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32551" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9830" RevisionGUID="6c8b28df-0330-4fba-a7ec-daf648b2b7c0" CreationDate="2018-10-02T15:13:04.863" UserId="9897" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32552" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9816" RevisionGUID="b34aebce-28d8-4834-95df-2b9f41c7ef0a" CreationDate="2018-10-02T15:31:47.820" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32560" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9832" RevisionGUID="2f67920f-0aaa-4d71-9137-57397bb31c3c" CreationDate="2018-10-02T19:56:20.943" UserId="3887" Text="i7 8550u has twice the core count/threads, higher IPC, higher boost (which matters more as in intensive task it will turbo boost and not stay within stock clocks) and fair better in benchmark. Despite 8th gen being more power hungry, U chips should not eat up too many battery life. [9 hours of surfing web for HP X360 i5 7500u][1] and [around 8 hours for the 8th gen counterpart][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cinebench gets almost twice the points on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Multi core: [![Cinebench multi][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And some substantial increase from single core: [![Cinebench single][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you game on intel's HD graphics, be aware it's not the best choice and Fortnite isn't the lightest game to run, that is if you keep your expectations low and lower some settings/resolutions. Both processor run Intel HD 620 so the difference should not be far off. If you want, there are laptops with low powered MX130/150 graphics that isn't going to increase price a lot and does pretty well [Link to a review for HD 620][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Spectre-x360-13-w023dx-Convertible-Review.180538.0.html#toc-energy-management&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Spectre-x360-13t-i7-8550U-FHD-SSD-Laptop-Review.289232.0.html#toc-energy-management&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfNFt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/i94rE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL2xceoiOLk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32567" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="9843b74d-f140-4f05-bda3-ec6223122f79" CreationDate="2018-10-03T04:04:27.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32571" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="fbf96aae-4a55-4f54-9607-0464af4cc960" CreationDate="2018-10-03T05:01:34.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32572" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7017" RevisionGUID="40574971-b3a2-4b36-8811-85187fb04281" CreationDate="2018-10-03T07:00:14.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9835" RevisionGUID="2d79a1fe-1c3e-42bd-b7cf-13d2c130a15d" CreationDate="2018-10-03T08:59:39.277" UserId="9906" Text="There are considereble price differences between EVO and PRO series of Samsun SSDs.&#xD;&#xA;Is it worth it to buy a PRO series?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the difference between EVO and PRO in first place?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32574" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9835" RevisionGUID="2d79a1fe-1c3e-42bd-b7cf-13d2c130a15d" CreationDate="2018-10-03T08:59:39.277" UserId="9906" Text="What is the difference between Samsung EVO and PRO SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32575" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9835" RevisionGUID="2d79a1fe-1c3e-42bd-b7cf-13d2c130a15d" CreationDate="2018-10-03T08:59:39.277" UserId="9906" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32576" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="690da38f-c735-401c-80c3-35ad7e1285fd" CreationDate="2018-10-03T12:00:32.787" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32578" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="e9b7c6ee-b5f9-4e25-a018-de087aa1187a" CreationDate="2018-10-03T14:00:18.990" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32579" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="07ba0c1d-68f1-44b6-b840-0f9be636b035" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:21:28.227" UserId="9910" Text="I'm working on an IoT Project that monitor the temperature / humidity of a house and detect if there are water leaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I'm looking for a water detection sensor with these constraint : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be connected to Wi-Fi (with or withour gateway)&#xD;&#xA; - An administrator can control where the sensor send data (I want these data directly on my server endpoint)&#xD;&#xA; - I want to be able use my application and not an external application " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32580" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="07ba0c1d-68f1-44b6-b840-0f9be636b035" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:21:28.227" UserId="9910" Text="Water Detection Sensor With Configurable Endpoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32581" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="07ba0c1d-68f1-44b6-b840-0f9be636b035" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:21:28.227" UserId="9910" Text="&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9837" RevisionGUID="139eae28-9f9c-4fea-a228-d161739cf346" CreationDate="2018-10-03T16:35:41.873" UserId="6047" Text="I believe the main difference is hard drive durability/life time. Depending on the series of the Samsung SSD, the pro sometimes have faster read and write. The newest [850 series in particular](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Evo-250GB-vs-Samsung-850-Pro-256GB/2977vs2385) does not seem to be all that different in performance with the exception of write speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, the EVO series are going to be much better value, and usually the better option. Personally, if I was willing to spend the money on a 850 Pro series, I would just go with the [960 evo NVMe M.2 SSD](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/462rxr/samsung-960-evo-series-250gb-pcie-nvme-m2-internal-ssd-mz-v6e250bw) if you have the interface to support it. It's MSRP is lower and it [actually outperforms the 850 pro by a huge margin](http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB-vs-Samsung-960-Evo-NVMe-PCIe-M2-250GB/2385vsm200373).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;I double checked and actually the [970 EVO](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dkHRsY/samsung-970-evo-250gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-mz-v7e250bw) is the latest of that series and it's market value is lower than the 960 and faster to boot. My points don't change, however." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="c4ab0f98-71e7-402c-979b-bf8bcf4c7cc9" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:22:17.527" UserId="9910" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm working on an IoT Project that monitor the temperature / humidity of a house and detect if there are water leaks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I'm looking for a water detection sensor with these constraint : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be connected to Wi-Fi (with or without gateway)&#xD;&#xA; - An administrator can control where the sensor send data (I want these data directly on my server endpoint)&#xD;&#xA; - I want to be able use my application and not an external application " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9838" RevisionGUID="f6a04ae2-8901-4df6-88e3-203a6ed4ff88" CreationDate="2018-10-03T19:13:40.313" UserId="9731" Text="If you liked the Logitech M570 they now have the [MX Ergo Plus][1], it has received [favorable reviews][2] with some minor complaints; price being the biggest concern.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also the Elecom [M-XPT1MRBK][3] for a lower price, receiving favorable mention in the above review. The red trackball isn't for show, it improves the sensor's tracking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Elecom M-XPT1MRBK][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/mx-ergo-wireless-trackball-mouse&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://techreport.com/review/32629/logitech-mx-ergo-trackball-reviewed/3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www2.elecom.co.jp.e.gj.hp.transer.com/products/M-XPT1MRBK.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbKAi.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9839" RevisionGUID="075a5d2d-b0e1-4049-a1ff-25ae1d3f372c" CreationDate="2018-10-03T22:44:54.967" UserId="9825" Text="Seeking a small workgroup printer (monochrome OK) where five users can print less than 50 pages a day from Windows 10. For security reasons, WiFi and wired LAN are out. Is there a printer with integrated Bluetooth, or a Bluetooth print server? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32588" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9839" RevisionGUID="075a5d2d-b0e1-4049-a1ff-25ae1d3f372c" CreationDate="2018-10-03T22:44:54.967" UserId="9825" Text="Small workgroup printer for five users connecting by Bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32589" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9839" RevisionGUID="075a5d2d-b0e1-4049-a1ff-25ae1d3f372c" CreationDate="2018-10-03T22:44:54.967" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32590" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="b6d101c4-1c3d-48cd-a62a-008b0360abeb" CreationDate="2018-10-04T00:00:56.123" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32591" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="76a43eec-922b-4d3a-8cf4-0f433768929d" CreationDate="2018-10-04T01:53:38.860" UserId="9887" Comment="added 275 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a keycap set with semitranslucent keys. Let me explain this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originally I was looking for a blank keycap set. However, I have a backlit keyboard, so this felt kind of like a waste of a great feature. So I was looking for translucent keycap sets, however they didn't look very well. Then I thought of keys that look just like my normal keycaps (i.e. only the letter is translucent) but with something like dots instead of the letters. Then I'd still have the blank style and use the backlight and it would hopefully look well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I was unable to find something similiar in the internet, which astonished me, as there generally is a pretty wide selection of keycap sets out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any ideas?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I actually found this option on [maxkeyboard][1], however this costs $90, which seems quite a lot of money for keycaps with a translucent dot atop of it. Are there any cheaper solutions out there?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/keyboard-keycap-services.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9840" RevisionGUID="fe61536d-fb0a-46e5-8f94-526848eb1acc" CreationDate="2018-10-04T05:14:08.663" UserId="9913" Text="With the demise of Crashplan for Linux I need a system for backing up my home desktop.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My intent is to run a local backup server** to guard against things like hard drive crashes and then use offsite storage to mitigate the risk of fire/flood/meteor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to use [Borg][1] because it will work with the [offsite storage provider][2] I've chosen and because it's supposedly simple to run a Borg server on a linux OS.  I looked first at the Raspberry Pi 3 but found reports that the network and hard drive interfaces were too slow to be viable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No-Compromise Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Very quiet. Ideally no fans. I don't know where I'm going to put it but if it ends up in my bedroom I don't want to hear it.&#xD;&#xA; - Reliable and fit for purpose (Cheap hardware is nice but my backups have to be there when I need them)&#xD;&#xA; - My overall budget is $200.  If it's a single-board computer I will also need to buy a hard drive.  If there's an all-in-one product with hard drive storage included I can go up to $200.&#xD;&#xA; - Must run Linux and have the horsepower to run Borg Server (but from what I've read if it can run Linux it can run Borg)&#xD;&#xA; - Requires minimal hardware skill to set up. I'm not a hardware hacker. Plugging stuff in is about as far as my skill extends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice-to-have:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Small form factor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Research I've already done:**&#xD;&#xA;*in no particular order*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [OrangePi Plus2][4] (negative reviews, however that was 2 years ago)&#xD;&#xA; - [PrimeSystems Core 2][3] (concerned about noise, size)&#xD;&#xA; - [ODROID-XU4][5] (expensive!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.borgbackup.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.rsync.net/products/attic.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7625/9913&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.orangepi.org/index.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-xu4/odroid-xu4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32594" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9840" RevisionGUID="fe61536d-fb0a-46e5-8f94-526848eb1acc" CreationDate="2018-10-04T05:14:08.663" UserId="9913" Text="Cheap, quiet (single-board?) Linux computer to act as a Borg backup target" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32595" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9840" RevisionGUID="fe61536d-fb0a-46e5-8f94-526848eb1acc" CreationDate="2018-10-04T05:14:08.663" UserId="9913" Text="&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32599" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9839" RevisionGUID="7da1ace0-9214-47f4-a835-d3efcc7479d7" CreationDate="2018-10-04T15:27:16.943" UserId="9825" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="Seeking a small workgroup printer (monochrome OK) where five users can print less than 50 plain paper pages (8.5&quot;x11&quot;) a day from Windows 10. For security reasons, WiFi and wired LAN are out. Is there a printer with integrated Bluetooth, or a Bluetooth print server, under a kilobuck? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32600" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9841" RevisionGUID="b1e2195e-a3fe-4b56-aa70-6cfec7ef82f0" CreationDate="2018-10-04T15:55:09.550" UserId="9916" Text="I'm adding Virgin Media broadband to a new office with up to 14 users (worst case). The modem will have 5 static IP addresses and Virgin Media have said that the modem will be in modem only mode, i.e. no routing and a separate router would need to be purchased (this is as a consequence of the static IP addresses)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything I need to consider when finding a router and can anyone suggest a router? Some of the PCs will not have WiFi cards attached so 5 or 6 network ports on the router would be handy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32601" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9841" RevisionGUID="b1e2195e-a3fe-4b56-aa70-6cfec7ef82f0" CreationDate="2018-10-04T15:55:09.550" UserId="9916" Text="Router required for Virgin Media modem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32602" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9841" RevisionGUID="b1e2195e-a3fe-4b56-aa70-6cfec7ef82f0" CreationDate="2018-10-04T15:55:09.550" UserId="9916" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32603" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9842" RevisionGUID="348a54d1-2e97-4967-9078-5c187472ab29" CreationDate="2018-10-04T16:29:22.617" UserId="6047" Text="[HP Officejet 100 $356.99][1]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Rate: 22 ppm&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution: 1200 dpi&#xD;&#xA; - Connective technology: USB, **Bluetooth**&#xD;&#xA; - Printer Technology: Colorized Thermal Inkjet&#xD;&#xA; - Supported Paper Formats: **Letter (8.5&quot; x 11&quot;)**, A 4/5/6, Legal, Executive, Statement, B5 (JIS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the cheapest printer I could find that comes with bluetooth and wasn't one of those tiny consumer HP camera printers. As an addition note, it appears this printer is portable as it comes equipped with a Lithium ion battery. They also sell a [carrying case][3] for this printer if you feel the need to print something in the middle of a park or something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9JA4KY3673&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4V2m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Carrying-Officejet-Shoulder-Briefcase-Protective/dp/B01K0XXB5C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32604" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9835" RevisionGUID="dee2078a-25cb-4368-9dc8-c798cf465975" CreationDate="2018-10-04T16:36:21.277" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32605" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9744" RevisionGUID="dafa96b6-e0c2-4b76-87e3-fc56e3a1c73d" CreationDate="2018-10-04T16:36:44.463" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:912,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Peter Zhu&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9839" RevisionGUID="77f0d248-f7a2-4389-8c8b-92f47f27c61b" CreationDate="2018-10-04T18:00:16.540" UserId="9825" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="Seeking a small workgroup printer (monochrome OK) where five users can print less than 50 plain paper pages (8.5&quot;x11&quot;) a day from Windows 10. For security reasons, WiFi and wired LAN are out. Can't due the Bluetooth Low Energy/WiFi Direct combination either, which rules out a lot of HP printers. Is there a printer with integrated Bluetooth, or a Bluetooth print server, under a kilobuck, which will work with no, repeat no, WiFi? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32609" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="423af410-a8dd-4ea5-a71b-693510ced68f" CreationDate="2018-10-04T20:00:31.017" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9843" RevisionGUID="41be0213-2ecd-4680-a504-7bec281b3d82" CreationDate="2018-10-04T21:32:09.600" UserId="9912" Text="I'm looking for an external monitor to attach to my laptop in portrait mode (known as &quot;pivot&quot;). I use it for coding, reading web pages, and reading/editing documents.  Not gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU is Nvidia Quadro P4000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to buy the latest product/technology, rather than something which has been on the market for 3 years.  https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6845/4k-monitor-for-programming is a bit dated now at 18 months ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/monitors/4k-monitors lets you sort by what's new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks like the newest they list is Dell U2718Q. There's the P2415Q, which has been around a while, but has newer variants. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm open to that. I've also found Asus PB27UQ and PB287Q (the latter is not IPS - but its cheap enough that maybe that doesn't matter?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And of course https://www.eizoglobal.com/press/releases/htmls/ev2785.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what's the best choice, weighing price and quality? :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32611" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9843" RevisionGUID="41be0213-2ecd-4680-a504-7bec281b3d82" CreationDate="2018-10-04T21:32:09.600" UserId="9912" Text="24 or 27&quot; UHD/4K monitor for developer. Dell U2718Q?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32612" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9843" RevisionGUID="41be0213-2ecd-4680-a504-7bec281b3d82" CreationDate="2018-10-04T21:32:09.600" UserId="9912" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32616" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="b08126d6-5f79-41e6-a4c1-56d1066720db" CreationDate="2018-10-05T02:01:16.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="ee6a07c2-3ddf-4492-ac72-37174fdbb344" CreationDate="2018-10-05T06:08:09.993" UserId="9809" Text="What is the best USB 3G dongle on the market right now to use with my Macbook Pro running MacOS? Is it safer to stick with standard IEEE connection? From a privacy perspective, is 3G or IEEE with a VPN more anonymous?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="ee6a07c2-3ddf-4492-ac72-37174fdbb344" CreationDate="2018-10-05T06:08:09.993" UserId="9809" Text="USB 3G Dongle Market" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="ee6a07c2-3ddf-4492-ac72-37174fdbb344" CreationDate="2018-10-05T06:08:09.993" UserId="9809" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32624" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="fdc7cb5c-d064-4ff4-ad39-c08ac469a7a3" CreationDate="2018-10-05T22:54:59.323" UserId="9809" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="What is the best USB 3G dongle on the market right now to use with my Macbook Pro running MacOS? Is it safer to stick with standard IEEE connection? From a privacy perspective, is 3G or IEEE with a VPN more anonymous? I am looking for something under $50 that rivals WIFI and Ethernet type of speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32635" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9135" RevisionGUID="72bef482-d5c3-4e74-ac4e-45c9c826adc0" CreationDate="2018-10-06T08:46:38.067" UserDisplayName="user9212" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I need a mini speaker which looks like a flash drive and uses USB for both power and data (so it doesn’t use 3.5mm audio jack) for a Raspberry Pi project. It doesn’t have to be&#xA;&#xA; - So loud&#xA; - Super high quality&#xA;&#xA;But it has to be&#xA;&#xA; - Affordable&#xA; - Small, preferably like a flash drive&#xA;&#xA;Does such thing even exist? If it does, then please tell me, I have been searching since yesterday and didn’t find anything." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32641" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="d0fad32f-505a-4aae-b979-a5ca83c7ab68" CreationDate="2018-10-06T17:00:10.910" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32642" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="80be7f73-bc92-455b-b9e0-290722811957" CreationDate="2018-10-06T18:00:14.603" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32643" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="98f10036-3988-40de-86f0-da2fbe6dc6bd" CreationDate="2018-10-06T21:00:38.817" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32651" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="bcc32b60-3d06-452f-97fa-03a2b9c4095d" CreationDate="2018-10-07T03:00:48.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9850" RevisionGUID="929648fb-2126-4dce-935b-bca7d12ac0dc" CreationDate="2018-10-07T16:25:48.267" UserDisplayName="user9930" Text="I need some hardware for multiple SIM cards SMS sending. Preferably 200 sim cards. I would use Linux and some development boards like Raspberry pi etc. I have used raspberry with a USB dongle. Please advice solutions for multiple sim cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32656" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9850" RevisionGUID="929648fb-2126-4dce-935b-bca7d12ac0dc" CreationDate="2018-10-07T16:25:48.267" UserDisplayName="user9930" Text="Some hardware for multiple SIM cards SMS sending" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32657" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9850" RevisionGUID="929648fb-2126-4dce-935b-bca7d12ac0dc" CreationDate="2018-10-07T16:25:48.267" UserDisplayName="user9930" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32658" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="b15dcc84-cda9-46c1-94da-06ebd048ea1a" CreationDate="2018-10-07T20:00:20.980" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32659" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="86ef61e0-3fbf-419e-a482-c03fa77d0447" CreationDate="2018-10-08T01:00:39.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32661" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9851" RevisionGUID="05773796-dec7-4d27-8317-0e32223802a3" CreationDate="2018-10-08T05:20:07.963" UserId="9932" Text="I was using Amazone drive for store my photos and videos and important document etc.. by comparing the annual cost, now I'm thinking to move to a USB external hard drive because those files I'm not accessing so often and sometimes when I traveling cost for mobile data to download files are high. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My plan is to buy identical two USB external hard drives and use one as a storage and the other one as a backup. But I don't like the idea of mirroring as a schedule task by connecting both drives to a computer and using a mirror software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I use some external hardware to do the mirror part same as RAID 1 concept. When files save in to a one drive, other drive also should get the same change. Something like a `hardware hub` or `splitter`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I feel this is a common requirement. Someone may achieve this before cloud storage get popular. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32662" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9851" RevisionGUID="05773796-dec7-4d27-8317-0e32223802a3" CreationDate="2018-10-08T05:20:07.963" UserId="9932" Text="How can I use two USB external hard drives by mirroring both like RAID 1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32663" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9851" RevisionGUID="05773796-dec7-4d27-8317-0e32223802a3" CreationDate="2018-10-08T05:20:07.963" UserId="9932" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9852" RevisionGUID="0d1852c0-85d9-4bd2-ab12-ac61a97ea184" CreationDate="2018-10-08T07:14:31.423" UserId="8003" Text="You might look for a 2-Bay USB HDD case, for example the `LOGILINK UA0154A`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are plenty of casings around, see [Google Shopping][1], but this depends on the size of your disks (2,5&quot;; 3,5&quot;, ...). I would recommend two 2,5&quot; SATA SSD's to get the best performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://bit.ly/2C3M2Yr" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32665" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9852" RevisionGUID="53fca1cb-aa65-4242-93c4-380688f0b88a" CreationDate="2018-10-08T07:22:13.560" UserId="8003" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="You might look for a 2-Bay USB HDD case, for example the `LOGILINK UA0154A`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are plenty of casings around, see [Google Shopping][1], but this depends on the size of your disks (2,5&quot;; 3,5&quot;, ...). I would recommend two 2,5&quot; SATA SSD's to get the best performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I really recommend to plug both drives to the same controller (let the &quot;external hardware&quot; do the RAID work for you).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://bit.ly/2C3M2Yr" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32674" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="0affb256-a930-4f70-95b1-fa16f8fc8713" CreationDate="2018-10-08T16:00:01.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32675" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="f4f24760-e2af-41b0-b67b-9589ba47c4fa" CreationDate="2018-10-08T17:00:37.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32677" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="c8829a66-c36d-4fdb-8e92-abacac786005" CreationDate="2018-10-08T19:00:10.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9855" RevisionGUID="6ffdce5b-c2ff-4e2b-99ef-cffa03d6b19b" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:29:21.027" UserId="9937" Text="I've a HP Envy 27&quot; 4K monitor which I use with both my home and work laptops. The problem is my work laptop connects via hdmi cable and personal laptop connects via usb c. So I've to manually switch monitor's input mode every-time I change computers. At a time, I've only one computer connected to the monitor. &#xD;&#xA;1. Is there a way to activate auto switching in the monitor? &#xD;&#xA;2. If not, does there exist any external solutions (like a KVM switch) so I don't have to fiddle with buttons on the monitor. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32679" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9855" RevisionGUID="6ffdce5b-c2ff-4e2b-99ef-cffa03d6b19b" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:29:21.027" UserId="9937" Text="Auto switch to the active input port on HP Envy 4k monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32680" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9855" RevisionGUID="6ffdce5b-c2ff-4e2b-99ef-cffa03d6b19b" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:29:21.027" UserId="9937" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32681" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9855" RevisionGUID="3dc51b88-4b00-47f0-9752-babb03878570" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:39:53.067" UserId="9937" Comment="added 274 characters in body" Text="I've a HP Envy 27&quot; 4K monitor which I use with both my home and work laptops. The problem is my work laptop connects via hdmi cable and the personal laptop (Mac Book Pro 2017) connects via USB-C. So I've to manually switch monitor's input mode every-time I change computers. At a time, I've only one computer connected to the monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is there a way to activate auto switching in the monitor? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. If not, does there exist any external solutions (like a KVM switch) so I don't have to fiddle with buttons on the monitor. I've found one such switch ([https://www.amazon.com/Displayport-Digital-Converter-Adapter-Projector/dp/B01MZ432JO][1]) but this only has HDMI ports.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Displayport-Digital-Converter-Adapter-Projector/dp/B01MZ432JO" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32682" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="10c93f2c-662c-4047-b85c-10f07fdc0750" CreationDate="2018-10-09T01:00:21.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32683" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="519b07fd-0a86-4936-badf-e05543867228" CreationDate="2018-10-09T03:00:04.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32684" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9856" RevisionGUID="c8071a30-aa60-45b1-b9c0-d2e52cda1eac" CreationDate="2018-10-09T03:28:37.173" UserId="9937" Text="I'm using a Dell WD15 dock to connect my Dell Precision 5510 to an external monitor (HP Envy 27&quot; 4k). This is a USB-C dock. The dock connects to the monitor using a HDMI cable. The display settings for the monitor are: &#xD;&#xA;resolution: 3840x2160, Scaling: 150%. The text on the monitor is very crisp. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whereas if I connect my 13&quot; 2017 Macbook Pro (usb-c), the text on the monitor is extremely blurry. the default display resolution is 2560x1440 at 60 Hz. I've even tried to use 4k resolution but the text isn't crisp. I also tried using the displayPort on the dock but to no avail. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This problem is eliminated when using a single usb-c cable and the text on the monitor becomes very crisp and clear at the default 2560x1440 resolution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to be able to use the dock with the Macbook Pro in order to take advantage of the various peripheral devices connected to the dock. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32685" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9856" RevisionGUID="c8071a30-aa60-45b1-b9c0-d2e52cda1eac" CreationDate="2018-10-09T03:28:37.173" UserId="9937" Text="Which input cable to use with a Dell WD15 dock when connecting a usb-c Macbook Pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32686" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9856" RevisionGUID="c8071a30-aa60-45b1-b9c0-d2e52cda1eac" CreationDate="2018-10-09T03:28:37.173" UserId="9937" Text="&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="56711e1e-0be2-456f-b5e1-62ba6bd2ea9b" CreationDate="2018-10-09T09:38:31.987" UserId="3630" Text="I would like to add some SATA ports to older servers (2 x PCIe x4, 1 x PCIe x 8) and I need to be able to use the max. speed of the HDDs attached to them - in parallel/all at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The HDDs are capable of delivering ~ 220MB/s read/write speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I do find, are PCIe x1 cards like&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    InLine 76617G, 8x SATA 6Gb/s, PCIe 2.0 x1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but these obviously max out at some 750 MB/s interface speed. Probably under normal load conditions that would be fine to serve 3 HDDs at a time, however, as mentioned, I'd need at least 1.6GB/s bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some older PCIex8 RAID controllers like the Areca 1220, but these unfortunately deliver only a 400MB/s bandwidth (actually trying to replace these) even when used in non-RAID mode with just &quot;pass through&quot; disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have been able to find a 8-port PCIe x2 card from Syba, which comes closest. Or alternately I could use two 4-port PCIe x2 cards as offered on Amazon. With the backdraw of losing 1 PCIe x 4 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So back to the title of this question: Is there a 8port SATA 6g PCIe x4 non-raid card - preferably below $80.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32688" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="56711e1e-0be2-456f-b5e1-62ba6bd2ea9b" CreationDate="2018-10-09T09:38:31.987" UserId="3630" Text="8-Port SATA PCIex4 non-raid?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32689" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="56711e1e-0be2-456f-b5e1-62ba6bd2ea9b" CreationDate="2018-10-09T09:38:31.987" UserId="3630" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9858" RevisionGUID="ac0ce700-5c2b-4613-89d0-752f5e138d2e" CreationDate="2018-10-09T13:39:22.447" UserId="9940" Text="Need industrial printer (print in paper bags papers) which can print with following spec,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - upto 42inch paper&#xD;&#xA; - multicolor&#xD;&#xA; - want to print upto 200GSM paper&#xD;&#xA; - sheet feed and roll feed&#xD;&#xA; - low quality print is enough&#xD;&#xA; - lower ink consumption&#xD;&#xA; - faster printing ability&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32692" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9858" RevisionGUID="ac0ce700-5c2b-4613-89d0-752f5e138d2e" CreationDate="2018-10-09T13:39:22.447" UserId="9940" Text="Printer requiered for industrial printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32693" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9858" RevisionGUID="ac0ce700-5c2b-4613-89d0-752f5e138d2e" CreationDate="2018-10-09T13:39:22.447" UserId="9940" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9859" RevisionGUID="376f95d8-3e6d-4fee-8ffa-7cb4efc80320" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:24:43.827" UserId="7005" Text="My Spectrum cable Internet can be upgraded to 940mbps service, but I prefer to own my modem.  As of October 2018, Spectrum has stated that &quot;There are no modems that have passed certification testing for the Spectrum Internet Gig tier with speeds up to 940 Mbps.&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there is a list of Minimally Qualified Modems below.  I have sorted them by those that advertise DOCSIS 3.1 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone successfully connected to Spectrum &quot;Internet Gig&quot; service with any of the modems below?&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;https://www.spectrum.net/support/internet/compliant-modems-charter-network/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes Arris SBG6950&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes Arris SBG6950 AC2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes Netgear C3000v2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes Netgear C3700v2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes Netgear Cable Orbi CBR40 or CBK40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No Arris SBG7400&#xD;&#xA;No Arris SBG7400 AC2&#xD;&#xA;No Linksys CG7500&#xD;&#xA;No Linksys CM3016&#xD;&#xA;No Motorola MB7621&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C6220&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C6300-100NAS&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C6300 B Step v2&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C6300 D0&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C7000&#xD;&#xA;??? Netgear C7000v2&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C7500&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear C7500 D0&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear CM700&#xD;&#xA;No Netgear N450-100NAS&#xD;&#xA;No TP-Link CR1900&#xD;&#xA;No TP-Link TC7650&#xD;&#xA;No Zoom 5370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32696" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9859" RevisionGUID="376f95d8-3e6d-4fee-8ffa-7cb4efc80320" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:24:43.827" UserId="7005" Text="User-owned cable modem for Spectrum Internet Gig service" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32697" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9859" RevisionGUID="376f95d8-3e6d-4fee-8ffa-7cb4efc80320" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:24:43.827" UserId="7005" Text="&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9860" RevisionGUID="4e6106c7-f0ba-436d-930a-639b3aab64a5" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:23:24.703" UserId="5449" Text="I would like a mouse that has copy and paste solely programmed into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The peculiarity about this is I don't what a mouse that simply has buttons but has the keyboard shortcuts programmable into the mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantage of this for me is that I can use it on linux/mac/windows machines." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32699" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9860" RevisionGUID="4e6106c7-f0ba-436d-930a-639b3aab64a5" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:23:24.703" UserId="5449" Text="Hardwired Programmable Mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32700" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9860" RevisionGUID="4e6106c7-f0ba-436d-930a-639b3aab64a5" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:23:24.703" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32701" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9850" RevisionGUID="37dcec71-900b-4165-a06a-839f407b3fb9" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:33:50.880" UserDisplayName="user9930" Comment="77" />
  <row Id="32702" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9860" RevisionGUID="25d94cd0-3cd8-4829-ba6a-27d812899f56" CreationDate="2018-10-09T20:52:03.533" UserId="5449" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I would like a mouse that has copy and paste solely programmed into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The peculiarity about this is I don't what a mouse that simply has buttons but has the keyboard shortcuts programmable into the mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantage of this for me is that I can use it on linux/mac/windows machines with out any additional software." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9860" RevisionGUID="e98f5e8b-73f4-4405-a3a5-39ab61a9cf94" CreationDate="2018-10-10T01:10:27.183" UserId="5449" Comment="added 373 characters in body" Text="I would like a mouse that has copy and paste solely programmed into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The peculiarity about this is I don't what a mouse that simply has buttons but has the keyboard shortcuts programmable into the mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The big advantage of this for me is that I can use it on linux/mac/windows machines with out any additional software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: So apparently the keyboard shortcuts are hardware wired based on the configuration software often but not always.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seDYxGhrc4A  This gives me some hope of getting one that works for all 3 operating systems ideally.  I have messed with Karabiner Elements on macOS and can likely get that one to at least partially work.  He is using the AJazz GTX mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9861" RevisionGUID="478962be-9a3a-4ff2-bf29-6f71ca4f2944" CreationDate="2018-10-10T01:20:17.960" UserId="1921" Text="Forget controllers and all of that if all you want is speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can get you the speed you need/want, but not the price. [HERE][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pcie m.2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;Here is a m.2 that meets your speed requirements&#xD;&#xA;From www.newegg.com:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It breaks the budget a bit, buts its name brand.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung a bit more:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Want even faster:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get 2 cheaper ones and do a software RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/QNINE-Adapter-Controller-Expansion-Profile/dp/B077YHFJZM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/I0rch.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPxMJ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI22d.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/N44wO.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSE86.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9862" RevisionGUID="8a36b33b-2a5f-434e-9fde-ddc2b4de70a4" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:04:27.837" UserId="9942" Text="I have always had really bad luck with wireless keyboards and mice on computers that have USB3 connectors.  When plugging the receiver mini-dongle into a USB3 port (or even near a USB3 port) both the keyboard and mouse suffer from lag and missed events.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just gave up after a while, but when looking for something else I found this article: [USB 3.0* Radio Frequency Interference on 2.4 GHz Devices](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html) on Intel's website, which reads in part:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;... the noise from USB 3.0 data spectrum can be high&#xD;&#xA;(in the 2.4–2.5 GHz range). This noise can radiate from the USB 3.0 connector on a &#xD;&#xA;PC platform, the USB 3.0 connector on the peripheral device or the USB 3.0 cable. If &#xD;&#xA;the antenna of a wireless device operating in this band is placed close to any of the &#xD;&#xA;above USB 3.0 radiation channels, it can   pick up the broadband noise. The broadband &#xD;&#xA;noise emitted from a USB 3.0 device can affect the SNR and limit the sensitivity of any &#xD;&#xA;wireless receiver whose antenna is physically located close to the USB 3.0 device. This &#xD;&#xA;may result in a drop in throughput on the wireless link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This describes the issues I've encountered perfectly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question**: Does anybody make a wireless kb/mouse that is immune to USB3 RFI?  I have searched several times, and usually my Google-fu is quite good, but it fails me here." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32706" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9862" RevisionGUID="8a36b33b-2a5f-434e-9fde-ddc2b4de70a4" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:04:27.837" UserId="9942" Text="Wireless keyboard/mouse immune to USB3 radio frequency interference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32707" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9862" RevisionGUID="8a36b33b-2a5f-434e-9fde-ddc2b4de70a4" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:04:27.837" UserId="9942" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9861" RevisionGUID="d1f76487-178a-4e83-b9cb-ca931e7a1003" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:19:28.860" UserId="1921" Comment="added 401 characters in body" Text="You can try something like this&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ascendtech.us/lsi-sas9211-8i-6gb-s-raid-card-3wdv5_i_cntcrdlsi03wdv5.aspx?agent=froogle#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 2 visible connect which each support 4 hard drives through a cable which I suspect isn't included in the cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You easily get adaptec cards that will do the speed you want, but there all like $500-$1000 so I won't even waste your time with examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forget controllers and all of that if all you want is speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can get you the speed you need/want, but not the price. [HERE][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pcie m.2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;Here is a m.2 that meets your speed requirements&#xD;&#xA;From www.newegg.com:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It breaks the budget a bit, buts its name brand.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung a bit more:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Want even faster:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get 2 cheaper ones and do a software RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/QNINE-Adapter-Controller-Expansion-Profile/dp/B077YHFJZM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/I0rch.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPxMJ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI22d.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/N44wO.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSE86.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32709" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9861" RevisionGUID="18014cb2-4e83-4648-9da0-f5df6ba7f6a1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:34:57.437" UserId="1921" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="You can try something like this&#xD;&#xA;http://www.ascendtech.us/lsi-sas9211-8i-6gb-s-raid-card-3wdv5_i_cntcrdlsi03wdv5.aspx?agent=froogle#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 2 visible connect which each support 4 hard drives through a cable which I suspect isn't included in the cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You easily get adaptec cards that will do the speed you want, but there all like $500-$1000 so I won't even waste your time with examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Forget controllers and all of that if all you want is speed.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can get you the speed you need/want, but not the price. [HERE][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pcie m.2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;Here is a m.2 that meets your speed requirements&#xD;&#xA;From www.newegg.com:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It breaks the budget a bit, buts its name brand.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung a bit more:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Want even faster:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get 2 cheaper ones and do a software RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/QNINE-Adapter-Controller-Expansion-Profile/dp/B077YHFJZM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/I0rch.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPxMJ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI22d.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/N44wO.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSE86.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9863" RevisionGUID="c286fb1b-b26c-4493-b48a-7df053f480c3" CreationDate="2018-10-10T03:56:04.373" UserId="9943" Text="I need a system with absolutely no wireless capabilities for my small business that will solely operate through a wired LAN. Since I have no need for WiFi or Bluetooth, I’d prefer not having to deal with contigencies stemming from possible unauthorized wireless injections or WiFi packet sniffers. I’m not willing to simply turn these wireless signals off through my system, because I for one know, there exists many firms which have stringent rules against the use of WiFi chips within their mainframes. Thus, I’m just not content with having any sort of antenna within my system. I’m currently considering getting a chrome box because I won’t need the system for any hardcore applications, but simply an internet connection. Any useful resources would be helpful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32711" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9863" RevisionGUID="c286fb1b-b26c-4493-b48a-7df053f480c3" CreationDate="2018-10-10T03:56:04.373" UserId="9943" Text="Does a System with Absolutely no Soldered Antennas Exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32712" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9863" RevisionGUID="c286fb1b-b26c-4493-b48a-7df053f480c3" CreationDate="2018-10-10T03:56:04.373" UserId="9943" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="aca0b130-d58b-42cd-8185-c7d935a3d16e" CreationDate="2018-10-10T09:58:28.883" UserId="9947" Text="Quick background: Me and my wife both work from home sometimes, and are both used to two or three monitor setups while in the office. For our home office I would like to have a universal laptop dock (our work machines are from different manufacturers) connected to three monitors. Ideally these would be MST compatible so I can daisy-chain them together, not only does this limit cable messiness but also means if we get a home computer in the near future then it will be much easier to switch the video output between laptop and tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently looking at [this monitor option][1] and [this laptop dock][2], however I'm not sure if this will accomplish what I need. If not, what other options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CFTTXDS/?coliid=I3PEZIG5TISLSX&amp;colid=1JPPMD5OI7JHD&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JV7FJN0/?coliid=I1PSXD1VPVZUC7&amp;colid=1JPPMD5OI7JHD&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32723" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="aca0b130-d58b-42cd-8185-c7d935a3d16e" CreationDate="2018-10-10T09:58:28.883" UserId="9947" Text="Daisy chained monitors with compatible laptop dock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32724" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="aca0b130-d58b-42cd-8185-c7d935a3d16e" CreationDate="2018-10-10T09:58:28.883" UserId="9947" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9868" RevisionGUID="509634d6-dedc-4408-8ed1-866707c38ec4" CreationDate="2018-10-10T14:57:32.513" UserId="1329" Text="According to the [featured products][1] page on the DisplayLink website there is only one product with 3 or more video outputs at the moment, the Dell D6000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Kensington SD3650 is based on an older chip only supporting DisplayPort v1.1. I think I have a very similar device based on this chip and it doesn't work with MST. My Dell U2515H is also a bit unreliable with MST but your mileage may vary with newer products. At worst you'd have to go back to connecting 3 displays to the dock separately, 2 through DP and one through HDMI. It may be a wiser choice to plan for that and capability to output at least WQHD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find details in the [manual][2] about MST support or the supported DP profile level, but it should work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're not going for monitors that use USB Type-C or Thunderbolt 3 for video, USB and power you will still have a few cables at the desk and some of the better DP cables are quite thick. Sorry but I don't think you can get a reliable solution on the market today. I'd love to see it too, and also compatible and affordable KVM switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Final note: if you are using f.lux/redshift you may want to check. I think I saw a comment by the f.lux developers that they got it working with DisplayLink chips after years of having no support, but I haven't checked since.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.displaylink.com/products/find?cat=&amp;res=&amp;num=3&amp;maxd=&amp;vid_dp=1&amp;usbc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_electronics/esuprt_docking_stations/dell-universal-dock-d6000_user%27s%20guide_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9869" RevisionGUID="3017f47c-611e-42fb-9a78-976ccfb98d45" CreationDate="2018-10-10T14:59:52.990" UserId="9948" Text="I'm looking to replace my OnePlus 3T that got some damage to the screen. I tried narrowing down my choices on a site that allows filtering based on hardware requirements, but ended up with zero matches. So I'm looking for something that is as close as can be found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Android&#xD;&#xA;* New enough to get at least a couple of years of security updates from the vendor&#xD;&#xA;* Dual SIM&#xD;&#xA;* Headphone jack&#xD;&#xA;* OLED screen that is not much smaller&#xD;&#xA;* No larger in body width/height&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not very important. It would be nice not to regress in battery life, charging speed or other hardware specs, but I could live with a small downgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32727" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9869" RevisionGUID="3017f47c-611e-42fb-9a78-976ccfb98d45" CreationDate="2018-10-10T14:59:52.990" UserId="9948" Text="Phone to replace OP3T without regressions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32728" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9869" RevisionGUID="3017f47c-611e-42fb-9a78-976ccfb98d45" CreationDate="2018-10-10T14:59:52.990" UserId="9948" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9870" RevisionGUID="ae17f446-32cb-49ab-8e0a-3dffc6018739" CreationDate="2018-10-10T15:50:44.160" UserId="951" Text="If you are going for cloud solution, processing power is the main thing as opposed to the network bandwidth - this would be primary concern if you'd be buying server yourself. The throughput you specify should be easily handled by any modern PC. Let's focus on the peak throughput - you calculated it is 23 messages/min, let's make it 100 for a pessimistic scenario. As the single outgoing message is at max 10MB, that means a pessimistic 1GB/min ~= 17 MB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For minimal requirements &amp; recomendation:&#xD;&#xA;CPU: I would reccomend any at least quad physical core processor with benchmark value at least 10 000 here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: the second most important specification. I would recommend 8GB minimum - it will depend though on what distro you choose and specific software. Also - you mentioned databse, yet you said you will not be storing the e-mails - the database caching can take considerable amount of RAM, so if you plan on using databse only for logging, 8GB should suffice, but not for much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mo-Bo, PCU and other components are not a concern if you go with hosting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparision, for the on-site server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with a budget less than 200$ a month, you can calculate, that 2000$ server will reach a full ROI compared to hosting provider after 10 months, excluding electricity and upkeep cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you like to include electricity and faulty drive(s) swap:&#xD;&#xA;The electiricty cost can be estimated at around 400$ per year [serverpowerusage][1]. This makes 12 months.&#xD;&#xA;According to [this article][2] you can expect 0.1 failure rate in two years per drive ~= 1 faulty drive in twenty years. This is negligible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, you need to calculate the cost of man-hours to setup and maintain, and theese are the biggest. There is also a bigger chance of data loss and problems, would you forget abiut spare PSU, ECC RAM or disk swap. You need to calculate it yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you consider buying the server, that's what I'd reccomend paying attention to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - it's not a bottleneck in this usage scenario assuming you buy any decent new server, but the older platform you will get, the more troubles in the future you will have upgrading. I'd say go with latest chipset, leave one socket empty and buy cheapest XEON for the second. It will be idle anyways most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support and hot plug of HDD and PSU is a must.&#xD;&#xA;Redundant PSU is a must also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for RAM - just remember to buy ECC ram - you have a server on site, so you can easilly increment. Start with one stick of 8GB or 16GB. More important is the board, which should have planty of space to add new RAM dies (12-24 ideally)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32730" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9870" RevisionGUID="80b80829-a5de-486d-97ef-93cc7da60a16" CreationDate="2018-10-10T15:59:44.560" UserId="951" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="If you are going for cloud solution, processing power is the main thing as opposed to the network bandwidth - this would be primary concern if you'd be buying server yourself. The throughput you specify should be easily handled by any modern PC. Let's focus on the peak throughput - you calculated it is 23 messages/min, let's make it 100 for a pessimistic scenario. As the single outgoing message is at max 10MB, that means a pessimistic 1GB/min ~= 17 MB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For minimal requirements &amp; recomendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: I would reccomend any at least quad physical core processor with benchmark value at least 10 000 here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: the second most important component. I would recommend 8GB minimum - it will depend though on what distro you choose and specific software. Also - you mentioned databse, yet you said you will not be storing the e-mails - the database caching can take considerable amount of RAM, so if you plan on using databse only for logging, 8GB should suffice, but not for much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mo-Bo, PSU and other components are not a concern if you go with hosting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparision, for the on-site server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with a budget less than 200$ a month, you can calculate, that 2000$ server will reach a full ROI compared to hosting provider after 10 months, excluding electricity and upkeep cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you like to include electricity and faulty drive(s) swap:&#xD;&#xA;The electiricty cost can be estimated at around 400$ per year [serverpowerusage][1]. This makes 12 months of ROI.&#xD;&#xA;According to [this article][2] you can expect 0.1 failure rate in two years per drive ~= 1 faulty drive in twenty years. This is negligible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, you need to calculate the cost of man-hours to setup and maintain, and theese are the biggest. There is also a bigger chance of data loss and problems, would you forget abiut spare PSU, ECC RAM or disk swap. You need to calculate it yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you consider buying the server, that's what I'd reccomend paying attention to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - it's not a bottleneck in this usage scenario assuming you buy any decent new server, but the older platform you will get, the more troubles in the future you will have upgrading. I'd say go with latest chipset, leave one socket empty and buy cheapest XEON for the second. It will be idle anyways most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support and hot plug of HDD and PSU is a must.&#xD;&#xA;Redundant PSU is a must also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for RAM - just remember to buy ECC ram - you have a server on site, so you can easilly increment. Start with one stick of 8GB or 16GB. More important is the board, which should have planty of space to add new RAM dies (12-24 ideally).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://networking.ringofsaturn.com/Tools/serverpowerusage.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/170748-how-long-do-hard-drives-actually-live-for" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9871" RevisionGUID="69867649-dfd7-40d4-a8f7-0379b92aa35a" CreationDate="2018-10-10T16:51:09.960" UserId="9084" Text="Let me clean up the question a bit as I understand it first; you want a device that will give you internet capabilities for a browser and possibly some other applications (but mostly the browser).  It cannot have a wireless network interface component because you are concerned with infringing on company policies regarding wireless access within their networks (a mainframe is a very different thing and has nothing to do with wireless networking).   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I answer, I'd like to point out that any company worth anything at all has abandoned the practice of forbidding wireless devices, as cell phones exist and are microcomputers with wireless network accessibility.  Any company with which you'd want to associate will have a modern philosophy about cybersecurity and prohibit unauthorized connections technologically so you don't have to worry about it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will be hard-pressed to find a notebook computer that doesn't have wireless LAN access.  Most motherboards have them *built in* and your only option to disable them is via the BIOS, which is effectively a secure way to make the machine behave as if it has no wireless card at all (since a BIOS hack is not a realistic problem).  All Chromebooks have WLAN access components.  Most laptops do not possess a normal network jack anymore and you'll need to get an external RJ45 port on a USB dongle to use physical networking lines. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since laptops simply aren't made without WLAN capability anymore, your only option other than just disabling it yourself is to physically remove it yourself.  Some Dell Latitude and HP models have the card (the size of a small cracker) in a slot on the motherboard with two screws holding it down and antennae that lead to the monitor.  Disconnect the antennae wires, wrap their contacts in electrical tape, and remove the card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9873" RevisionGUID="b6f840fb-891a-4182-94ad-54038a4d4f66" CreationDate="2018-10-10T17:36:33.713" UserId="9084" Text="There's a little trick you can use to get around this.  Get a USB extension cable.   Then plug the extension cable into a 2.x port (assuming your components are 2.x and don't lose performance on those ports) and plug the dongle into the other end.  This gives you the length to get the actual wireless receiver away from the interference from the USB3 ports. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32737" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9870" RevisionGUID="1dc7d9b5-66d3-4ca3-91d7-e9fa8877b390" CreationDate="2018-10-10T19:10:39.703" UserId="951" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="If you are going for cloud solution, processing power is the main concern, as opposed to the network bandwidth - which would be primary concern if you'd be buying server yourself. The throughput you specify should be easily handled by any modern PC. Let's focus on the peak throughput - you calculated it is 23 messages/min, let's make it 100 for a pessimistic scenario. As the single outgoing message is at max 10MB, that means a pessimistic 1GB/min ~= 17 MB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For minimal requirements &amp; recomendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: I would reccomend any at least quad physical core processor with benchmark value at least 10 000 here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: the second most important component. I would recommend 8GB minimum - it will depend though on what distro you choose and specific software. Also - you mentioned databse, yet you said you will not be storing the e-mails - the database caching can take considerable amount of RAM, so if you plan on using databse only for logging, 8GB should suffice, but not for much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mo-Bo, PSU and other components are not a concern if you go with hosting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparision, for the on-site server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with a budget less than 200$ a month, you can calculate, that 2000$ server will reach a full ROI compared to hosting provider after 10 months, excluding electricity and upkeep cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you like to include electricity and faulty drive(s) swap:&#xD;&#xA;The electiricty cost can be estimated at around 400$ per year [serverpowerusage][1]. This makes 12 months of ROI.&#xD;&#xA;According to [this article][2] you can expect 0.1 failure rate in two years per drive ~= 1 faulty drive in twenty years. This is negligible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, you need to calculate the cost of man-hours to setup and maintain, and theese are the biggest. There is also a bigger chance of data loss and problems, would you forget abiout spare PSU, ECC RAM or disk swap. You need to calculate it yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you consider buying the server, that's what I'd reccomend paying attention to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - it's not a bottleneck in this usage scenario assuming you buy any decent new server, but the older platform you will get, the more troubles in the future you will have upgrading. I'd say go with latest chipset, leave one socket empty and buy cheapest XEON for the second. It will be idle anyways most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support and hot plug of HDD and PSU is a must.&#xD;&#xA;Redundant PSU is a must also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for RAM - just remember to buy ECC ram - you have a server on site, so you can easilly increment. Start with one stick of 8GB or 16GB. More important is the board, which should have planty of space to add new RAM dies (12-24 ideally).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whichever way you'll go: keep in mind the 3-2-1 backup mantra: 3 backups at 2 separate locations for one happy admin :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://networking.ringofsaturn.com/Tools/serverpowerusage.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/170748-how-long-do-hard-drives-actually-live-for" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9870" RevisionGUID="54c40982-f04b-4d3b-a6b6-488e74478697" CreationDate="2018-10-10T19:16:28.703" UserId="951" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="If you are going for cloud solution, processing power is the main concern, as opposed to the network bandwidth - which would be primary concern if you'd be buying server yourself. The throughput you specify should be easily handled by any modern PC. Let's focus on the peak throughput - you calculated it is 23 messages/min, let's make it 100 for a pessimistic scenario. As the single outgoing message is at max 10MB, that means a pessimistic 1GB/min ~= 17 MB/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For minimal requirements &amp; recomendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: I would reccomend any at least quad physical core processor with benchmark value at least 10 000 here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: the second most important component. I would recommend 8GB minimum - it will depend though on what distro you choose and specific software. Also - you mentioned databse, yet you said you will not be storing the e-mails - the database caching can take considerable amount of RAM, so if you plan on using databse only for logging, 8GB should suffice, but not for much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mo-Bo, PSU and other components are not a concern if you go with hosting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparision, for the on-site server:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So with a budget less than 200$ a month, you can calculate, that 2000$ server will reach a full ROI compared to hosting provider after 10 months, excluding electricity and upkeep cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you like to include electricity and faulty drive(s) swap:&#xD;&#xA;The electiricty cost can be estimated at around 400$ per year [serverpowerusage][1]. This makes 12 months of ROI.&#xD;&#xA;According to [this article][2] you can expect 0.1 failure rate in two years per drive ~= 1 faulty drive in twenty years. This is negligible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, you need to calculate the cost of man-hours to setup and maintain, and theese are the biggest. There is also a bigger chance of data loss and problems, would you forget abiout spare PSU, ECC RAM or disk swap. You need to calculate it yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you consider buying the server, that's what I'd reccomend paying attention to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU - it's not a bottleneck in this usage scenario assuming you buy any decent new server, but the older platform you will get, the more troubles in the future you will have upgrading. I'd say go with latest chipset, leave one socket empty and buy cheapest XEON for the second. It will be idle anyways most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAID support and hot plug of HDD and PSU is a must.&#xD;&#xA;Redundant PSU is a must also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for RAM - just remember to buy ECC ram - you have a server on site, so you can easilly increment. Start with one stick of 8GB or 16GB. More important is the board, which should have planty of space to add new RAM dies (12-24 ideally).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whichever way you'll go: keep in mind the 3-2-1 backup mantra: 3 copies at 2 different media with one copy at different location.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://networking.ringofsaturn.com/Tools/serverpowerusage.php&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/170748-how-long-do-hard-drives-actually-live-for" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="b83c00f6-72fb-45f5-bf0c-05b5948bef1b" CreationDate="2018-10-10T19:35:03.900" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the off-topic questions. " Text="What is the best USB 3G dongle on the market right now to use with my Macbook Pro running MacOS? I am looking for something under $50 that rivals WIFI and Ethernet type of speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32742" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="b83c00f6-72fb-45f5-bf0c-05b5948bef1b" CreationDate="2018-10-10T19:35:03.900" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the off-topic questions. " Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9875" RevisionGUID="b5808671-5bc3-46f4-9212-f10672b99997" CreationDate="2018-10-10T22:47:51.637" UserId="5449" Text="In terms a fairly cheap option, take a look at the Logitech G203.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works in Linux &amp; Windows as long as you configure it in Windows initially.  I'm not sure about macOS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32744" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="a76e29ef-afc7-4845-b8ed-c4b600a6762b" CreationDate="2018-10-11T00:00:15.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9845" RevisionGUID="965d36fd-9bb4-4796-934c-6c28ace46f78" CreationDate="2018-10-11T02:03:31.993" UserId="9809" Comment="added 114 characters in body" Text="What is the best USB 3G dongle on the market right now to use with my Macbook Pro running MacOS? I am looking for something under $50 that rivals WIFI and Ethernet type of speed. I am looking for the best bps for the best price. I understand 3G is not going to be as fast as WIFI or Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32751" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9855" RevisionGUID="df388bd7-0e42-4392-abe0-41730fa2e70c" CreationDate="2018-10-11T18:50:06.213" UserId="9937" Comment="added 40 characters in body" Text="I've a HP Envy 27&quot; 4K monitor which I use with both my home and work laptops. The problem is my work laptop connects via hdmi cable and the personal laptop (Mac Book Pro 2017) connects via USB-C. So I've to manually switch monitor's input mode every-time I change computers. At a time, I've only one computer connected to the monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is there a way to activate auto switching in the monitor? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. If not, does there exist any external solutions (like a KVM switch) so I don't have to fiddle with buttons on the monitor. I've found one such switch ([https://www.amazon.com/Displayport-Digital-Converter-Adapter-Projector/dp/B01MZ432JO][1]) but this only has HDMI ports.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Displayport-Digital-Converter-Adapter-Projector/dp/B01MZ432JO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Preferably something under $50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32754" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="d953a30e-0c9b-418c-9003-313ea49ab2fd" CreationDate="2018-10-12T04:00:22.997" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32755" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="7c598275-669c-493c-b0f9-7ca2eb43afab" CreationDate="2018-10-12T10:00:28.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32756" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="f1f3dd2c-04a8-4f96-b3b2-4ddb7991fad7" CreationDate="2018-10-12T11:00:17.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9875" RevisionGUID="833860e6-230a-4c9b-80aa-9ad125d9f2e6" CreationDate="2018-10-12T14:37:18.543" UserId="5449" Comment="added 91 characters in body" Text="In terms a fairly cheap option, take a look at the Logitech G203.  I like it because it has six buttons but looks like a regular mouse(not the gaming mice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It works in Linux &amp; Windows as long as you configure it in Windows initially.  I'm not sure about macOS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9881" RevisionGUID="5852f6e2-17fb-4df4-be8e-0b30f68c9aff" CreationDate="2018-10-12T22:50:49.493" UserId="4374" Text="I have an HP Elitebook 8470P. It does a lot of heavy SQL Work. I was running it with 65 Watt 18.5V 3.5A Power Adapter which came with it. It overheated and burst a couple of days back after using it for around 2 years. Thankfully Laptop is safe. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c03374369#AbT7 and it lists two types of power adapters. 90 watt 19V 4.74A Discrete Config and 65 Watt 18.5V 3.5A UMA Config (the one which I was using). Is it possible that it burst because of excessive workload. If so, Should I buy the one with 90 watt power this time around whihc might also help my batch run faster. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I have a 65 watt 19.5V 3.33A adapter lying around with me. Can I use it instead without risk of frying the laptop. The wattage is same 65 Watt but Voltage and Current is different." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9881" RevisionGUID="5852f6e2-17fb-4df4-be8e-0b30f68c9aff" CreationDate="2018-10-12T22:50:49.493" UserId="4374" Text="HP Elitebook 8470P Power 65 watt or 90 watt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9881" RevisionGUID="5852f6e2-17fb-4df4-be8e-0b30f68c9aff" CreationDate="2018-10-12T22:50:49.493" UserId="4374" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9882" RevisionGUID="e1ea64dd-bff7-42df-93c3-225a604fc3e5" CreationDate="2018-10-12T23:04:44.993" UserId="4374" Text="I am sorry. I didn't realize this question hasn't got an official answer even though I bought a machine based on the comments. For what its worth, I bought an HP Eltebook 8470P with 256 GB SSD, 8 GB RAM. My Batch time got dropped from 14 hours or so to 5 hours. Has worked like a peach for 2 years till a couple of days back when its power adapter went kaput. Came here to ask about it only when notice this question lying unanswered. Thank everyone, though belated...." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32775" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9881" RevisionGUID="b851f8e8-8313-463b-b8c7-0b5d6f8febcc" CreationDate="2018-10-12T23:06:31.663" UserId="4374" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="I have an HP Elitebook 8470P. It does a lot of heavy SQL Work. I was running it with 65 Watt 18.5V 3.5A Power Adapter which came with it. It overheated and burst a couple of days back after using it for around 2 years. Thankfully Laptop is safe. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c03374369#AbT7 and it lists two types of power adapters. 90 watt 19V 4.74A Discrete Config and 65 Watt 18.5V 3.5A UMA Config (the one which I was using). Is it possible that it burst because of excessive workload. If so, Should I buy the one with 90 watt power this time around whihc might also help my batch run faster. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I have a 65 watt 19.5V 3.33A adapter lying around with me with matching connector size. Can I use it instead without risk of frying the laptop. The wattage is same 65 Watt but Voltage and Current is different." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32776" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="34891f41-8760-4395-b3bb-ae21358dd047" CreationDate="2018-10-13T00:01:46.900" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9883" RevisionGUID="52c02614-12aa-4017-a373-1b2f4d0a8961" CreationDate="2018-10-13T04:11:22.737" UserId="531" Text="Its not *exactly* an NUC, but I ended up going with [ars technica's recommendation][1] and ordered something similar from Qotom (went with a core i3, 4gb of ram, and 128gb ssd, since I may choose to run other things on it - [this is the specific model][2]). They have more practical 2 port models, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run a few other things on it, and I'm still working out the software setup. It comes with pfsense already installed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few little technical notes -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless adaptor that comes built in is a  AR9287. Its single band, and probably something I will replace in future. Its mini PCIe not M.2. Its probably worth dropping and replacing with something else. I'm not sure if the option without wireless comes with the mounting holes for the antennae so I left it in place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a msata slot (populated by an off brand, presumably MLC drive), and a power+data interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x intel I211 adaptors (not multiple adaptors on one interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x USB (2x 2.0 2x3.0), Serial (which was slightly amusing) and HDMI out for video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll take a beauty shot later, but that's in comparison with a NUC class machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4-Gigabit-LAN-ports-Mini-PC-Celeron-3215U-Core-i3-Core-i5-WIFI-using/32829499825.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6Db.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32779" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9883" RevisionGUID="f8632bac-8ca4-40bd-8765-f8a2b4c19c7d" CreationDate="2018-10-13T04:17:15.310" UserId="531" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="Its not *exactly* an NUC, but I ended up going with [ars technica's recommendation][1] and ordered something similar from Qotom (went with a core i3, 4gb of ram, and 128gb ssd, since I may choose to run other things on it - [this is the specific model][2]). They have more practical 2 port models, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I paid about 280USD, which compares well to a NUC, even if its slightly dated hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run a few other things on it, and I'm still working out the software setup. It comes with pfsense already installed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few little technical notes -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless adaptor that comes built in is a  AR9287. Its single band, and probably something I will replace in future. Its mini PCIe not M.2. Its probably worth dropping and replacing with something else. I'm not sure if the option without wireless comes with the mounting holes for the antennae so I left it in place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a msata slot (populated by an off brand, presumably MLC drive), and a power+data interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x intel I211 adaptors (not multiple adaptors on one interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x USB (2x 2.0 2x3.0), Serial (which was slightly amusing) and HDMI out for video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll take a beauty shot later, but that's in comparison with a NUC class machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4-Gigabit-LAN-ports-Mini-PC-Celeron-3215U-Core-i3-Core-i5-WIFI-using/32829499825.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6Db.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32780" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9883" RevisionGUID="5a03b935-b7e1-4194-9fe3-e7f3bd4f7fab" CreationDate="2018-10-13T05:51:34.503" UserId="531" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="Its not *exactly* an NUC, but I ended up going with [ars technica's recommendation][1] and ordered something similar from Qotom (went with a core i3, 4gb of ram, and 128gb ssd, since I may choose to run other things on it - [this is the specific model][2]). They have more practical 2 port models, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I paid about 280USD, which compares well to a NUC, even if its slightly dated hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run a few other things on it, and I'm still working out the software setup. It comes with pfsense already installed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few little technical notes -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless adaptor that comes built in is a  AR9287. Its single band, and probably something I will replace in future. Its mini PCIe not M.2. Its probably worth dropping and replacing with something else. I'm not sure if the option without wireless comes with the mounting holes for the antennae so I left it in place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a msata slot (populated by an off brand, presumably MLC drive), and a power+data interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x intel I211 adaptors (not multiple adaptors on one interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x USB (2x 2.0 2x3.0), Serial (which was slightly amusing) and HDMI out for video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its *silent*. Seems &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll take a beauty shot later, but that's in comparison with a NUC class machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4-Gigabit-LAN-ports-Mini-PC-Celeron-3215U-Core-i3-Core-i5-WIFI-using/32829499825.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6Db.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32781" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="7f1e1e00-305a-46b6-98de-fc8e8e9463d2" CreationDate="2018-10-13T09:00:35.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="7dc324c0-2970-45a6-b7a4-7df9a71f3b12" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:03:51.433" UserId="9965" Text="I have this HDD from an old laptop I no longer possess and I would like to retrieve the data that's on it. I was wondering what kind of connector I would need to connect it to my PC. I saw another similar [here][1] but I am not quite sure I understand the solution that is given and if it is applicable to my own HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a picture: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7269/hdd-connector-for-laptop-hardidsk-to-pc&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfaA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="7dc324c0-2970-45a6-b7a4-7df9a71f3b12" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:03:51.433" UserId="9965" Text="Connector for HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="7dc324c0-2970-45a6-b7a4-7df9a71f3b12" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:03:51.433" UserId="9965" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="0c19eb55-1a25-4290-87c0-68b3677e128b" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:18:13.620" UserId="9965" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="I have this HDD from an old laptop I no longer possess and I would like to retrieve the data that's on it. I was wondering what kind of connector I would need to connect it to my PC. I saw another similar [here][1] but I am not quite sure I understand the solution that is given and if it is applicable to my own HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a picture: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and another one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![top hdd][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7269/hdd-connector-for-laptop-hardidsk-to-pc&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfaA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqJeL.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="d4b6f21b-e189-4a90-bda0-2b197dfbc1d3" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:50:21.333" UserId="9962" Comment="rotate picture" Text="I have this HDD from an old laptop I no longer possess and I would like to retrieve the data that's on it. I was wondering what kind of connector I would need to connect it to my PC. I saw another similar [here][1] but I am not quite sure I understand the solution that is given and if it is applicable to my own HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a picture: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD][2]][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and another one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![top hdd][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7269/hdd-connector-for-laptop-hardidsk-to-pc&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfaA.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.imgur.com/4VVOkdS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32791" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9886" RevisionGUID="d4b6f21b-e189-4a90-bda0-2b197dfbc1d3" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:50:21.333" Comment="Proposed by 9962 approved by 9965 edit id of 745" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9887" RevisionGUID="04f1dcf8-076e-4ca2-a806-07826f682d5c" CreationDate="2018-10-13T16:56:24.790" UserId="9962" Text="Your HDD is a Western Digital Scorpio Blue WD5000BEVT 500GB. In the first picture it seems that the HDD is wrapped in something. If this is the case, remove this piece.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can read your HDD's full specs on [cnet](https://www.cnet.com/products/wd-blue-wd5000bevt-hard-drive-500-gb-sata-300-series/specs/) or [newegg](https://www.cnet.com/products/wd-blue-wd5000bevt-hard-drive-500-gb-sata-300-series/specs/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its interface is SATA 3 Gb/s - 7 pin Serial ATA. Looks for this in your favorite vendor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32793" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="d9d4dedf-23ec-452e-990c-dd999bc5a13a" CreationDate="2018-10-13T18:00:16.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9888" RevisionGUID="c3596b87-a121-4657-bc02-7bf3368c742b" CreationDate="2018-10-13T19:51:21.507" UserId="9896" Text="I would like a desktop computer which is fast and snappy for common &quot;power user&quot; workflows (eg. coding IDEs, 20+ Chrome tabs, Blender, Audio Editing, Web/File Server, Backup server) and also has the capability to run deep learning algorithms on it (one nVidia RTX 2080 ti to start, maybe another down the road). The problem, as I see it, is that Intel doesn't really offer any high-performance CPUs (&gt;= 5GHz overclocked) with more than 16 PCIe lanes. I've seen different reports about whether NVMe drives use up these PCIe lanes or if they are routed through a different set of platorm PCIe lanes, but if they do use up some of these lanes then I am immediately dropped down to 8x performance on the graphics card. Even if not, it means dropping down to 8x performance once I have 2 graphics cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bearing in mind that a setup like this will reasonably end up with 2 NVMe drives and 2 graphics cards, am I better off going with a lower clockspeed Xeon or AMD Threadripper so that I get the PCIe lanes?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm getting the impression, based on current hardware options, that I can have a fast desktop PC or a capable server / deep-learning platform, but not both." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32795" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9888" RevisionGUID="c3596b87-a121-4657-bc02-7bf3368c742b" CreationDate="2018-10-13T19:51:21.507" UserId="9896" Text="Is a Deep Learning + High Performance Workstation impossible with current hardware offerings? (Late 2018)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32796" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9888" RevisionGUID="c3596b87-a121-4657-bc02-7bf3368c742b" CreationDate="2018-10-13T19:51:21.507" UserId="9896" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32797" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="c743726a-6434-435d-a03b-1a30fe095dcc" CreationDate="2018-10-13T20:00:20.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32801" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="6b86f17b-8769-4db6-992c-881281eb74dd" CreationDate="2018-10-13T22:00:11.943" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9889" RevisionGUID="39d7b2b2-05b4-4fe5-82b4-5cd494f89755" CreationDate="2018-10-14T03:17:21.903" UserId="9967" Text="It really depends on how deep you want to go when it comes to your deep learning projects, and how long you are willing to wait, which could be a long time- depending on your project and how much computing it requires to output qualitative results. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary workstation is a Dual E5-2697 v2, 128 GB RAM, Dual TITAN GPUs, and an 8x1TB SSD RAID 0 Array over SAS. It's a workhorse; the CPU rates 22000 using Passmark and is in the 99th Percentile. The 2X GPUs rate at 92nd Percentile... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, it's a heavy duty system (The original build was roughly $20,000- though it could be built now using the same components and buying used)- but it even wouldn't really be a &quot;great&quot; system for workload heavy deep learning setups, such as video/image/audio projects. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet would be to buy a good system, I would say don't buy &quot;best&quot;, but 6 months post release- it's so much cheaper that way. Go single processor, highest OC you can afford, and a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then use the money saved to run your actual deep learning projects on Google Cloud Compute or Amazon's AWS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can build your VM Instance on Google's Cloud Compute Platform, keep it off which will only incur minimal charges for the IP and system image; then power it up with 1, 2, 4, or even multiple VMs running NVIDIA V100 GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The V100s will really give you the power you want, and you can rent them at the pre-emptable price of roughly $0.80 per hour. (GPU only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using this method you can build your projects on your system, then when you actually are ready to let the machine go to work and do the work, you can put your VM online, transfer your project and assets, and put the V100s to work for a few hours, or a few days. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a high end deep learning system on Google's platform - using the pre-emptable price; may cost you $4 an hour; what it will be able to do in 12 hours will far surpass what you would be able to do in days, if not weeks and weeks of runtime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cost of one V100 is over $8000. Save the cash, rent the cards by the minute when you need them. And costs will drop as newer cards become available. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32804" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9889" RevisionGUID="52fb0991-bafe-4af6-ab04-164ccb3135cf" CreationDate="2018-10-14T03:40:53.883" UserId="9967" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="It really depends on how deep you want to go when it comes to your deep learning projects, and how long you are willing to wait, which could be a long time- depending on your project and how much computing it requires to output qualitative results. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary workstation is a Dual E5-2697 v2, 128 GB RAM, Dual TITAN GPUs, and an 8x1TB SSD RAID 0 Array over SAS. It's a workhorse; the CPU rates 22000 using Passmark and is in the 99th Percentile. The 2X GPUs rate at 92nd Percentile... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, it's a heavy duty system (The original build was roughly $20,000- though it could be built now using the same components and buying used for far less)- but it even wouldn't really be a &quot;great&quot; system for workload heavy deep learning setups, such as video/image/audio projects. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet would be to buy a good system, I would say don't buy &quot;best&quot;, but 6 months post release- it's so much cheaper that way. Go single processor, highest OC you can afford, and a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then use the money saved to run your actual deep learning projects on Google Cloud Compute or Amazon's AWS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can build your VM Instance on Google's Cloud Compute Platform, keep it off which will only incur minimal charges for the IP and system image; then power it up with 1, 2, 4, or even multiple VMs running NVIDIA V100 GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The V100s will really give you the power you want, and you can rent them at the pre-emptable price of roughly $0.80 per hour. (GPU only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using this method you can build your projects on your system, then when you actually are ready to let the machine go to work and do the work, you can put your VM online, transfer your project and assets, and put the V100s to work for a few hours, or a few days. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a high end deep learning system on Google's platform - using the pre-emptable price; may cost you $4 an hour; what it will be able to do in 12 hours will far surpass what you would be able to do in days, if not weeks and weeks of runtime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cost of one V100 is over $8000. Save the cash, rent the cards by the minute when you need them. And costs will drop as newer cards become available. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9889" RevisionGUID="917bc412-3975-4960-9e49-06dce39ede6e" CreationDate="2018-10-14T03:48:04.960" UserId="9967" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="It really depends on how deep you want to go when it comes to your deep learning projects, and how long you are willing to wait, which could be a long time- depending on your project and how much computing it requires to output qualitative results. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My primary workstation is a Dual E5-2697 v2, 128 GB RAM, Dual TITAN GPUs, and an 8x1TB SSD RAID 0 Array over SAS. It's a workhorse; the CPU rates 22000 using Passmark and is in the 99th Percentile. The 2X GPUs rate at 92nd Percentile... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, it's a heavy duty system (The original build was roughly $20,000- though it could be built now using the same components and buying used for far less)- but it even wouldn't really be a &quot;great&quot; system for workload heavy deep learning setups, such as video/image/audio projects. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your best bet would be to buy a good system, I would say don't buy &quot;best&quot;, but 6 months post release- it's so much cheaper that way. Go single processor, highest OC you can afford, and a decent GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then use the money saved to run your actual deep learning projects on Google Cloud Compute or Amazon's AWS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can build your VM Instance on Google's Cloud Compute Platform, keep it off which will only incur minimal charges for the IP and system image; then power it up with 1, 2, 4, or even multiple VMs running NVIDIA V100 GPUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The V100s will really give you the power you want and while the 2080 card may appear nearly as fast on benchmark charts, it simply can't do what a V100 can, such as FP64, it can host 32GB of RAM which vastly improves it's ability to handle large data sets rather than having to pipe in and out smaller subsets, and you can rent them at the pre-emptable price of roughly $0.80 per hour. (GPU only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2080 may be touted as &quot;80% as fast&quot; as a V100 but if your project would benefit from FP64 and larger ram allocations, it will rip past what your 2080 can do- it's why the card costs 8 times what a single 2080 is priced at. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add to that you can instantly launch a 2 x V100, or 4x V100 VM Instance, and suddenly you are machine learning speeds are 20x, 30x, or far more, than what your system could do. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Ultimately, it will boil down to:  I can run this machine learning project on my system and obtain the results I want in 9 days, OR, I can launch a VM, pay $8.00 an hour, and get my results back in 7 hours.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using this method you can build your projects on your system, then when you actually are ready to let the machine go to work and do the work, you can put your VM online, transfer your project and assets, and put the V100s to work for a few hours, or a few days. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But a high end deep learning system on Google's platform - using the pre-emptable price; may cost you $4 an hour; what it will be able to do in 12 hours will far surpass what you would be able to do in days, if not weeks and weeks of runtime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cost of one V100 is over $8000. Save the cash, rent the cards by the minute when you need them. And costs will drop as newer cards become available. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32806" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="450778b4-70a6-4668-8ce4-5e40d72c0196" CreationDate="2018-10-14T06:21:14.547" UserId="2086" Text="Everything there is almost perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5k lumen. Very short throw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is my wall is around 5m. Xiaomi laser can do 3.75 m (150 inch).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The throw doesn't have to be that short though I like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Distance 2m is fine. So about .4 throw ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full HD. Higher better, but not if it's too much more expensive. Good contrast. If you have other criteria of what's good, let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$5k max budget. But if I can get a very good one for $1500-$2000 I would need a good reason to shell out another $3k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about projector central. Been looking for it. Still can't decide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh ya, if possible, something popular enough that I can find it in tokopedia.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32807" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="450778b4-70a6-4668-8ce4-5e40d72c0196" CreationDate="2018-10-14T06:21:14.547" UserId="2086" Text="I need a projector that is like Xiaomi Laser but with Bigger Screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32808" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="450778b4-70a6-4668-8ce4-5e40d72c0196" CreationDate="2018-10-14T06:21:14.547" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32812" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8218" RevisionGUID="98382f1e-1ab0-4dd7-b71b-9cc09f0268ea" CreationDate="2018-10-14T12:00:29.943" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32813" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="c696bd3d-ff2e-4368-af40-486e5f264eb3" CreationDate="2018-10-14T16:00:17.330" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32817" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7202" RevisionGUID="6bc2780e-848a-4f9a-9f9e-7481c64f3caa" CreationDate="2018-10-14T19:00:15.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32819" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="912ce845-1210-40b8-8198-c70ea8e2d313" CreationDate="2018-10-15T05:00:38.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9895" RevisionGUID="7dbd7529-5812-4555-8276-065326453be5" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:54:28.783" UserId="9973" Text="It seems like almost every phone coming out these days make only the most incremental changes to the actual capabilities of the phone, instead focusing on making a better fashion statement or a better software camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One would think that would be easy to get around—just look at cell phone reviews that don't focus on that stuff! Unfortunately, this seems to everything reviewers care about too, so I'm right out of luck there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I am focused on three things:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Solid reliability and function—I don't really need a Snapdragon 845, but I would love to have a body that can survive a few years of use.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Battery life. I would prefer better battery life/battery optimization than top-of-the-line GPUs.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Future compatibility. I want this phone to continue to receive support and/or updates for an extended period of time, so I'm afraid phones from over a year or so are right out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I really don't care about**, but seem to be the major players:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The camera. I have a camera. If I want to take good shots, I won't use my phone.&#xD;&#xA; 2. The &quot;modern styling&quot; that I'm going to cover with a case anyway and will turn into an old trend in a year or two.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Perfect, top-of-the-line OLED edge-to-edge bezel-less always-on 600-nit screen with perfectly dark blacks.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Gimmicks I don't need like under-screen fingerprint sensors. They aren't really necessary and are mainly used to flex on your friends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not even sure if a recent phone exists that meets these requirements, but—seeing as how phone reviewers tend to focus on what I don't care about—**I figured I'd ask you guys what might be a good option.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32831" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9895" RevisionGUID="7dbd7529-5812-4555-8276-065326453be5" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:54:28.783" UserId="9973" Text="What is a good smartphone if I primarily care about solid function and future support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32832" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9895" RevisionGUID="7dbd7529-5812-4555-8276-065326453be5" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:54:28.783" UserId="9973" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32833" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="81f793e5-02c7-4bb6-9cd5-91d5234eff87" CreationDate="2018-10-16T02:00:23.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32835" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9896" RevisionGUID="f136b038-1808-428f-9468-4238e9fc6849" CreationDate="2018-10-16T08:33:39.513" UserId="1873" Text="For updates I would focus on phones with Android One - they are guaranteed two years of updates and that's guaranteed by Google themselves (plus it's pretty close to pure Android). And no stupid vendor customisations to the ROM (e.g. MIUI).&#xA;&#xA;Reading your requirements look at [Xiaomi Mi A2 Lite][1]. It has great battery life (both in tests and from my friend's comments), is a recent phone and is part of the Android One program.&#xA;&#xA;One thing to look at when it comes to battery life is the SoC - AFAIK Snapdragon 625 (and it's updates) are really good for battery life.&#xA;&#xA;Two sites I can recommend for solid reviews are notebookcheck and GSMarena. They go a bit more in depth in their reviews.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_mi_a2_lite_(redmi_6_pro)-9247.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9897" RevisionGUID="c008860e-b362-4386-96a3-bccb0085c6d2" CreationDate="2018-10-16T16:47:54.843" UserId="9976" Text="I need to integrate a 9.5 or 12.7 mm laptop optical BluRay drive into a small form factor case that only accepts a SLOT IN drive. I have the slot in drive but it some small/slim ATAPI/IDE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am facing is that the mini-ITX main board does not have IDE and the laptop BluRay drive is IDE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a sample photo:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you please point me out to some adapter that will allow me to connect this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7NSb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9897" RevisionGUID="c008860e-b362-4386-96a3-bccb0085c6d2" CreationDate="2018-10-16T16:47:54.843" UserId="9976" Text="Need to find adapter for laptop ATAPi/IDE to SATA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9897" RevisionGUID="c008860e-b362-4386-96a3-bccb0085c6d2" CreationDate="2018-10-16T16:47:54.843" UserId="9976" Text="&lt;sata&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32842" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="82bbab1e-5a79-4372-a016-daa8b9d223bc" CreationDate="2018-10-17T03:00:39.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32847" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9850" RevisionGUID="e9475705-79dd-4c28-8810-3f78025f0b43" CreationDate="2018-10-17T22:00:36.960" UserId="-1" Comment="77" />
  <row Id="32848" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9900" RevisionGUID="ca84a19b-9eee-4216-8e67-0b3e4da0576b" CreationDate="2018-10-18T00:13:30.943" UserId="9986" Text="I currently own a Dell XPS 13 (Developer edition) 16GB RAM, 256 GB SSD. I ran Windows 10 on it for a year, switched to Ubuntu 18.04 for 4 months, and switched back to Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is very lightweight and low-profile&#xD;&#xA; - It can do common tasks with ease such as browsing, word-processing, etc. I normally have around 40-50 tabs open in Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Because it is such a small profile, the case is the cooling system. When running CPU-intensive programs, I can burn my legs from the heat of the aluminum case.&#xD;&#xA; - In Ubuntu, I could not work on the laptop while it was charging because Ubuntu thought the laptop was overheating and the CPU would throttle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I could go back and buy another laptop, I would look for something slightly bigger with a better cooling system. Also, the Dell XPS 13 has a CPU that is intended for mobile products. Even though it says Intel core i7, it's not your normal core i7. Lookup i7-8550u for specs. Here is a current link : https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/processors/core/i7-processors/i7-8550u.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32855" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9897" RevisionGUID="5a4e2922-7f23-481d-a95f-6f462e68bb3c" CreationDate="2018-10-18T15:01:29.220" UserId="6047" Comment="Small grammatical improvements" Text="I need to integrate a **9.5 or 12.7 mm laptop optical BluRay drive** into a small form factor case that only accepts a **slot in** drive. I have the slot in drive but it some small/slim **ATAPI/IDE**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am facing is that the mini-ITX main board does not have IDE and the laptop BluRay drive is IDE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Interface reference photo][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What adapter that will allow me to interface this drive to my main board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7NSb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32856" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9897" RevisionGUID="5a4e2922-7f23-481d-a95f-6f462e68bb3c" CreationDate="2018-10-18T15:01:29.220" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 60 edit id of 746" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="3fcfa041-7942-4bfe-ae09-ebe3f5918bdc" CreationDate="2018-10-18T17:21:23.530" UserId="9990" Text="I have a Moto E5 Play, which does not have built-in NFC capabilities. I'd like to be able to use Google Pay and other apps that require NFC. Are there NFC transmitters/readers that plug into the 3.5mm audio jack? (Kind of like Square, but with NFC capabilities, not mag stripe) I'd like to leave the USB port free for charging, which is why I'm asking about the audio port.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="3fcfa041-7942-4bfe-ae09-ebe3f5918bdc" CreationDate="2018-10-18T17:21:23.530" UserId="9990" Text="Are there NFC transmitters/readers that plug into the 3.5mm audio port on my phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="3fcfa041-7942-4bfe-ae09-ebe3f5918bdc" CreationDate="2018-10-18T17:21:23.530" UserId="9990" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9904" RevisionGUID="af4237af-3878-4f27-883d-5caa3b3ad759" CreationDate="2018-10-18T21:41:17.253" UserId="9991" Text="I will be configuring a new Windows-based computer in the next few weeks.  This will be a general purpose computer, but will be used on a fairly regular basis for video processing (Sony Vegas) and video rendering.  My current computer indicates that Sony Vegas does use all cores when rendering.  But in looking at CPU options for my upcoming system, is there an online performance comparison tool I can use to figure out which CPU will give me the fastest video render times within my CPU cost budget?  There is quite a variety of cpu models with variances in architecture, clock speed, number of cores, onboard cache, etc.  What I don't know is if in my CPU-intensive video rendering if a higher clock and fewer cores, or slower clock by more cores will give me better performance, assuming sufficient memory, SSD, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32866" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9904" RevisionGUID="af4237af-3878-4f27-883d-5caa3b3ad759" CreationDate="2018-10-18T21:41:17.253" UserId="9991" Text="Faster clock or more cores for best performance of video editing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32867" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9904" RevisionGUID="af4237af-3878-4f27-883d-5caa3b3ad759" CreationDate="2018-10-18T21:41:17.253" UserId="9991" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32869" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="45f5a8fb-8b26-46b4-9760-6034c2ba069f" CreationDate="2018-10-19T06:00:59.930" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9905" RevisionGUID="8cd462f1-9caa-4390-b077-aed477c040dc" CreationDate="2018-10-19T06:57:44.490" UserId="9993" Text="Video editing and rendering is mostly multithreaded, so if frequency obviously matters, core &amp; thread count is the most important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is why GPU can be a good solution too. If you planned to put a GPU anyway, that could be an option for faster renderering as a GPU has way more cores than a CPU. In this case, I would recommend a &quot;cheap&quot; 6 cores like the Ryzen 2600, depending on your budget of course, with a good GPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32871" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="e9fdc38c-a577-4ca5-98d3-a80f9586a42d" CreationDate="2018-10-19T07:00:24.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="05fcfa79-960d-4132-bb8c-3f1c851249c1" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:41:16.510" UserId="9994" Text="I'm thinking about getting a new laptop. I'd like to know if anyone knows when we can expect mainstream laptops to contain mitigation for spectre and meltdown vulnerabilities. From what I've read on the internet some of the software mitigation for the vulnerabilities takes a hefty toll on the computer performance and if I were to get a new computer it seems worth the wait if I can get one that has mitigation built into hardware and, at least in my theory, has better performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="05fcfa79-960d-4132-bb8c-3f1c851249c1" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:41:16.510" UserId="9994" Text="New laptop: when to buy to get spectre and meltdown fixes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="05fcfa79-960d-4132-bb8c-3f1c851249c1" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:41:16.510" UserId="9994" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9908" RevisionGUID="c814321b-b153-45c0-adb0-cfab20612ba7" CreationDate="2018-10-19T15:15:15.137" UserId="9998" Text="Nokia 2.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Decent build quality for the money. 4000 mAh battery. No frills. Monthly security support promise for at least three years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32889" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9403" RevisionGUID="d1b57297-23bf-4903-91d9-07b0a308c8de" CreationDate="2018-10-20T09:00:43.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9912" RevisionGUID="37c76048-0b44-4b3f-b26e-706adb02aeb1" CreationDate="2018-10-20T10:52:15.340" UserId="1873" Text="Intel has just released 9th gen core I which only has partial fixes. AMD also released their CPUs recently although AFAIK they were never susceptible to Meltdown. All in all - I'd say a year at least.&#xA;&#xA;What do you do on your notebook that you care so much about performance? Could you please update your question?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32899" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="fbf20e2d-fa81-4b6d-81e8-76c83421f640" CreationDate="2018-10-20T20:31:20.643" UserId="1951" Comment="78" />
  <row Id="32903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9915" RevisionGUID="b4c5b099-ab0f-4de1-b2c3-98935f365b74" CreationDate="2018-10-21T01:19:14.150" UserId="9917" Text="Looking for a tablet or 2-in-1 for heavy programming and note taking, preferably a tablet or a 2-in-1 with a detachable screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I care about how the writing feels so looking for a stylus/screen combo with a little bit of resistance if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aiming for high build quality and powerful components because I want it to last as long as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 3500 USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Size: preferably 12 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video card: not relevant&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life: not a priority" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9915" RevisionGUID="b4c5b099-ab0f-4de1-b2c3-98935f365b74" CreationDate="2018-10-21T01:19:14.150" UserId="9917" Text="Tablet or 2-in-1 for programming and note taking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9915" RevisionGUID="b4c5b099-ab0f-4de1-b2c3-98935f365b74" CreationDate="2018-10-21T01:19:14.150" UserId="9917" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32908" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9916" RevisionGUID="e62c5e26-0b8f-4a52-81ec-24e6ace65dc8" CreationDate="2018-10-21T07:36:35.283" UserId="10006" Text="# Problem&#xD;&#xA;I'm working with huge brain imaging raster data with four dimensions (x,y,z,t). The dimension sizes are respectively ~1000, ~600, ~20, ~3000 with data stored as uint16, which makes me ~100GB files. To store the data, I have a RAID of 8 8TB hard drives (64TB). Now comes the problem of accessing the data : sometimes I have to take a single (x,y) image, sometimes I have to take all the t's for one xy pixel. Since I can not load all the data in the RAM (I have 64GB), I use memory mapping which means I load the data only when I need it. But it makes the slicing along the z axis is very, very long.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Question&#xD;&#xA;How can I access and process or visualize my data quickly ?&#xD;&#xA;It would be faster with a RAID of SSD's, but much more expansive. Is there a way to use only one 1TB SSD as the cache for the RAID ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32909" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9916" RevisionGUID="e62c5e26-0b8f-4a52-81ec-24e6ace65dc8" CreationDate="2018-10-21T07:36:35.283" UserId="10006" Text="Slicing 100GB raster datasets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32910" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9916" RevisionGUID="e62c5e26-0b8f-4a52-81ec-24e6ace65dc8" CreationDate="2018-10-21T07:36:35.283" UserId="10006" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;raid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32915" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8297" RevisionGUID="118d5e41-3a0f-40cc-a9eb-5c94b3c5bf67" CreationDate="2018-10-22T02:00:36.140" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32916" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="d337ff60-bb4c-493c-b769-bcd6d6adc749" CreationDate="2018-10-22T04:01:55.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9919" RevisionGUID="baeaac68-e28f-4cf3-b4a8-0cdb0123477c" CreationDate="2018-10-22T10:26:50.527" UserId="543" Text="The Microsoft Surface Pro (5th Generation) is a very good laptop (tablet) with a detachable screen and keyboard as specified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as specs go, they cover your requirements with a model which has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i7.&#xD;&#xA;- 512 GB / 1 TB SSD.&#xD;&#xA;- 16 GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;- 12.3&quot; Display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a stylus available for the Surface Pro and as far as build quality goes, the Surface Pro is exceptional, as would be expected from a high-end Microsoft product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find more details here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/surface-pro/8NKT9WTTRBJK/L6FV?source=lp&amp;activetab=pivot:techspecstab&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price of the 512 GB model is $2200 (currently $1799 as of this post).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is probably one of the best choices out there for programming / note-taking." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="5b410833-6423-4e06-b8ed-252506a1333e" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:45:00.193" UserId="1951" Comment="Clarify that OS should be irrelevent" Text="I have a bluetooth keyboard which I would like to use on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;My laptop runs Linux and I have had it working in the past but it wasn't stable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm now looking for a bluetooth adapter which will connect to my keyboard over bluetooth and acts as a standard HID device on the USB port of my Linux laptop. Because it prevents itself as a standard HID device, it should work in the BIOS and any OS with USB support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have another (creative) solution that might do the job I would love to hear that as well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32920" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="5b410833-6423-4e06-b8ed-252506a1333e" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:45:00.193" Comment="Proposed by 1951 approved by 60 edit id of 747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32921" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="7bab667e-df5c-4362-9f3b-49b41b744ad3" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:45:52.690" UserId="60" Comment="edited body" Text="I have a bluetooth keyboard which I would like to use on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;My laptop runs Linux and I have had it working in the past but it wasn't stable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm now looking for a bluetooth adapter which will connect to my keyboard over bluetooth and acts as a standard HID device on the USB port of my Linux laptop. Because it presents itself as a standard HID device, it should work in the BIOS and any OS with USB support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have another (creative) solution that might do the job I would love to hear that as well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9920" RevisionGUID="3d69a315-cdb9-44b6-8f59-46686a9d39fd" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:26:12.573" UserId="10011" Text="I want to buy a power meter in order to measure CPU and GPU power consumption, on a remoter desktop machine (in which I have physical access). The software is ubuntu 18.04, I can measure the nvidia GPU power consumption using nvidia-smi, but I cannot measure the CPU power consumption trustworhty. I need to purchase a tool that I might place on the device and it would expose measurements to an endpoint/url for instance for the device, such as power consumption, energy consumption etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you suggest something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32923" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9920" RevisionGUID="3d69a315-cdb9-44b6-8f59-46686a9d39fd" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:26:12.573" UserId="10011" Text="Appropriate power meter for CPU and GPU power consumption?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32924" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9920" RevisionGUID="3d69a315-cdb9-44b6-8f59-46686a9d39fd" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:26:12.573" UserId="10011" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9921" RevisionGUID="52122b25-8f21-45d9-87b8-7391c774b742" CreationDate="2018-10-22T15:16:05.607" UserId="10012" Text="I was reading the HP Dv7 service manual looking for a replacement wi-fi chip, and I think that my brother's chip finally kicked the bucket after around a decade of service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did all the usual monkeying around with drivers, and software but nothing works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I noticed that there were no recommendations for AC-compatible wi-fi chips in the manual. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see that there are a lot of a/b/g/n, but nothing for the AC standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I look for in a wi-fi chip for a pavillion dv7 to optimize wi-fi performance? Is there an AC compliant chip that can be used with this computer without being rejected?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking only for chips that also support the bluetooth protocol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Picture Here:&#xD;&#xA;[![Wi-Fi Chips][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYXuZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32926" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9921" RevisionGUID="52122b25-8f21-45d9-87b8-7391c774b742" CreationDate="2018-10-22T15:16:05.607" UserId="10012" Text="HP Pavillion Dv7 AC-Compatible Wi-Fi Chip?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32927" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9921" RevisionGUID="52122b25-8f21-45d9-87b8-7391c774b742" CreationDate="2018-10-22T15:16:05.607" UserId="10012" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32928" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="f8b6f5af-5003-4d8b-8e34-741de56b29cc" CreationDate="2018-10-22T16:20:28.143" UserId="9990" Comment="79" />
  <row Id="32929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="5c40d13f-3434-49a7-9265-8a13599e5083" CreationDate="2018-10-22T18:08:32.847" UserId="5449" Text="I sometimes need 10kmah and sometimes 10kmah and would prefer not buy 2 separate battery packs.  Money is no object.  Is there a cell phone USB charger that is chainable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="5c40d13f-3434-49a7-9265-8a13599e5083" CreationDate="2018-10-22T18:08:32.847" UserId="5449" Text="Changeable cell phone battery pack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="5c40d13f-3434-49a7-9265-8a13599e5083" CreationDate="2018-10-22T18:08:32.847" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32936" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9924" RevisionGUID="89eda0d4-ce5c-4ed2-b24c-21dee1fbc600" CreationDate="2018-10-23T03:19:50.430" UserId="10013" Text="To begin, this is related to a project I wanted to do after getting some free hardware from someone. I would like to be able to run this computer from a power bank if possible, although I'm not too experienced at all in hardware. If it is not feasible I would be grateful for an explanation as to why.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the components that need to be discussed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PWR-PICOPSU-80/PWR-PICOPSU-80-manual.pdf (PSU DC-DC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100mAh-Portable-Delivery/dp/B071WNWRNC&#xD;&#xA;(Powerbank)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07952G6KT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 &#xD;&#xA;(USB to 12V 2A DC Connector)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought this setup would work as this USB to 12v 2A DC converter should be able to give the PSU what it demands (12v 1A MIN). The end results being however, I get the CPU active heat sink fan to start up for near to a second before it turns off. And then continues to do so if it's left plugged in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An interesting thing to note is, I have two AC Adapters which are both 12v 2A with the same polarity, one works how it should and one doesn't, which mimics what the powerbank+converter does. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone possibly help me out, recommending me some other component(s) to use? Thanks :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32937" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9924" RevisionGUID="89eda0d4-ce5c-4ed2-b24c-21dee1fbc600" CreationDate="2018-10-23T03:19:50.430" UserId="10013" Text="Running a Mini-ITX Computer with a picoPSU-80 from a power bank possible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32938" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9924" RevisionGUID="89eda0d4-ce5c-4ed2-b24c-21dee1fbc600" CreationDate="2018-10-23T03:19:50.430" UserId="10013" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32939" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9924" RevisionGUID="a49882de-6f51-4aae-9e13-429e93de2e33" CreationDate="2018-10-23T03:26:28.990" UserId="10013" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="To begin, this is related to a project I wanted to do after getting some free hardware from someone. I would like to be able to run this computer from a power bank if possible, although I'm not too experienced at all in hardware. If it is not feasible I would be grateful for an explanation as to why.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the components that need to be discussed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PWR-PICOPSU-80/PWR-PICOPSU-80-manual.pdf (PSU DC-DC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100mAh-Portable-Delivery/dp/B071WNWRNC&#xD;&#xA;(Powerbank)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07952G6KT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 &#xD;&#xA;(USB to 12V 2A DC Connector)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought this setup would work as this USB to 12v 2A DC converter should be able to give the PSU what it demands (12v 1A MIN). The end results being however, I get the CPU active heat sink fan to start up for near to a second before it turns off. And then continues to do so if it's left plugged in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An interesting thing to note is, I have two AC Adapters which are both 12v 2A with the same polarity, one works how it should and one doesn't, which mimics what the powerbank+converter does. The one that doesn't work, doesn't have a ground prong/pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone possibly help me out, recommending me some other component(s) to use? Thanks :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32940" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9925" RevisionGUID="41b0a76c-3e91-46f6-a24d-9ad9fffbe5c6" CreationDate="2018-10-23T05:22:43.127" UserId="10012" Text="`Huffer` posted an excellent response on (https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/WLAN-Module-Recommendations/td-p/6872092)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He said that there are no AC-Compatible wi-fi chips available on my model number Dv7 due to a blacklisting of all other wi-fi chips that are non-manufacturer approved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He also said that certain models are whitelisted and don't have this lack of forward compatibility. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32941" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9926" RevisionGUID="27492f5a-e81a-41c5-bfd5-b9a7f704d50e" CreationDate="2018-10-23T07:29:25.273" UserId="7923" Text="I need a short HDMI cable (Male-Male) to connect a Raspberry PI 3B+ to a [HDMI Switch][1] (the monitor is shared between the Raspberry and a PC). It should have 10 cm or maximum 20 cm and I have difficulties finding such thing. When searching for it, I land on pages for products like micro HDMI cables, HDMI to VGA adapter cables or even HDMI extension cords.&#xD;&#xA;There is a good store in the area where I live specialized only in cables for electronics and the shortest HDMI cable they have is 50 cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess I'm not the only one who has to share a monitor between a PC and a micro computer like Raspberry PI so a good answer to this question might be quite useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Bi-Direction-Switcher-Splitter-Support/dp/B01GPU84A6/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32942" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9926" RevisionGUID="27492f5a-e81a-41c5-bfd5-b9a7f704d50e" CreationDate="2018-10-23T07:29:25.273" UserId="7923" Text="Short HDMI cable - 10 or 20 cm for Raspberry PI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32943" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9926" RevisionGUID="27492f5a-e81a-41c5-bfd5-b9a7f704d50e" CreationDate="2018-10-23T07:29:25.273" UserId="7923" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32945" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9927" RevisionGUID="20222216-9991-4736-b433-39a4f8530433" CreationDate="2018-10-23T09:20:26.593" UserId="10016" Text="While I don't know what country you're in so I can't be sure of this suggestion, these offerings are available on UK Amazon ([1][1]) ([2][2]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found these with a search for &quot;Short HDMI Cable 0.1m&quot;. There were a lot of offerings at 0.25m, but these were the only ones I could see shorter than that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-15m-HDMI-Short-Patch-Cable-Gold/dp/B01CT2FP24/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540285589&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=short%20hdmi%20cable%200.1m&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHORT-15cm-HDMI-CABLE-GOLD-x/dp/B00KX50VB0/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540285589&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=short%20hdmi%20cable%200.1m" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9928" RevisionGUID="c99e4f6c-4a79-4910-ab08-3a17329c9085" CreationDate="2018-10-23T09:52:07.447" UserId="10016" Text="I don't believe that the thing you're searching for is possible at this time. While there are external NFC addons, they are (as far as I know) designed for taking payments rather than mimicking general NFC android capabilities. ([Details][1] and [store page][2] for one of these) The problem you run into is that some &quot;flavours&quot; of android (the modified versions used by individual device manufacturers were not designed for NFC, so adding the functionality is nigh on impossible. If you have settings for NFC in your device menus, there might be chance and further investigation could be worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do decide to keep investigating, while I couldn't easily find one currently for sale, there are many NFC modules designed for a micro SD slot, however be careful with these as it seemed unclear whether they were intended to add NFC functionality or if they were simply standard micro SD cards which allow a person to access the files on it through NFC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acs.com.hk/en/products/341/acr35-nfc-mobilemate-card-reader/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.acs.com.hk/index.php?page=product&amp;id=341&amp;type=smart-card-readers&amp;code=ACR35" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="785c54de-11b5-4008-8f63-258928a4b4b6" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:24:56.793" UserId="9994" Comment="added 138 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I'm thinking about getting a new laptop. I'd like to know if anyone knows when we can expect mainstream laptops to contain mitigation for spectre and meltdown vulnerabilities. From what I've read on the internet some of the software mitigation for the vulnerabilities takes a hefty toll on the computer performance and if I were to get a new computer it seems worth the wait if I can get one that has mitigation built into hardware and, at least in my theory, has better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm working as a developer. I use Microsoft Visual Studio and need computer to be as fast as possible when compiling etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32948" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="785c54de-11b5-4008-8f63-258928a4b4b6" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:24:56.793" UserId="9994" Comment="added 138 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32949" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="6838ac8b-5df9-4f4f-a0bc-81aefdc26ada" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:48:36.573" UserId="5449" Comment="edited body" Text="I sometimes need 10kmah and sometimes 20kmah and would prefer not buy 2 separate battery packs.  Money is no object.  Is there a cell phone USB charger that is chainable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32950" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="fed4287e-a36b-4f2f-880b-385369a366cb" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:57:45.883" UserId="9994" Comment="added 364 characters in body" Text="I'm thinking about getting a new laptop. I'd like to know if anyone knows when we can expect mainstream laptops to contain mitigation for spectre and meltdown vulnerabilities. From what I've read on the internet some of the software mitigation for the vulnerabilities takes a hefty toll on the computer performance and if I were to get a new computer it seems worth the wait if I can get one that has mitigation built into hardware and, at least in my theory, has better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm working as a developer and the new computer is supposed to be for work. I use Microsoft Visual Studio and need computer to be as fast as possible when compiling etc. My current work computer is in the place in the upgrade cycle where it should be upgraded, (it is five years old and uses win7) but if I ask my manager for a new I'll probably have to use it for four years or so. My reason for asking is to determine if I should hold on to my computer for a couple of months longer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9929" RevisionGUID="5420a5f9-b0b0-4131-9e88-aabd35184a7a" CreationDate="2018-10-23T16:36:28.270" UserId="10020" Text="I am looking for MACSec hardware for an academic project (layer 2 encryption). The main requirements are simplicity and a flexible key exchange configuration (however, it is not yet specified how the key exchange is done).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a MACSec switch, and possibly also for a MACSec netword card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend some cheap commodity MACSec hardware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32953" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9929" RevisionGUID="5420a5f9-b0b0-4131-9e88-aabd35184a7a" CreationDate="2018-10-23T16:36:28.270" UserId="10020" Text="Cheap and flexible switch with MACSec / NIC with MACSec support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32954" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9929" RevisionGUID="5420a5f9-b0b0-4131-9e88-aabd35184a7a" CreationDate="2018-10-23T16:36:28.270" UserId="10020" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32955" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="2f76b4e9-c04a-4207-9c1f-a9ffbf299a7c" CreationDate="2018-10-23T19:00:45.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32956" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9659" RevisionGUID="e2e4d383-d857-4990-97a0-16de49f9193e" CreationDate="2018-10-24T00:01:00.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9912" RevisionGUID="b3f53af2-d301-4e0f-838f-ad32113caddc" CreationDate="2018-10-24T00:15:05.123" UserId="1873" Comment="Expanded answer after OP updated the question" Text="Intel has just released 9th gen core I which only has partial fixes. AMD also released their CPUs recently although AFAIK they were never susceptible to Meltdown. All in all - I'd say a year at least.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you do on your notebook that you care so much about performance? Could you please update your question?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After reading question update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever new you get now will be most likely a major step up. Your old notebook likely has an HDD - those 2.5&quot; 5400 RPM HDDs are way slow. Also get loads of RAM - code completion eats it like candies, faster then any browser. CPU only comes later (unless you have some very specific needs which you failed to note).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both Spectre and Meltdown countermeasures exhibit the greatest hit on the user/kernel border - which usually boils down to network or disk I/O. Unless you do a lot of that the performance hit should be &lt;5% for you - that's almost neglible. Browsing the net while compiling could cause more of a slow down." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32958" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="e22a0db3-25f9-4c23-9556-1ce21afa0a19" CreationDate="2018-10-24T08:00:25.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9934" RevisionGUID="060c45f1-577a-490b-9753-aef57659d41a" CreationDate="2018-10-25T00:04:21.493" UserId="10033" Text="I am desperately looking for a keyboard which satisfies my particular playstyle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required Features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Wireless (to be used on armchair in front of TV)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Illuminated (to play with lights off)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Full analog numpad (calculator is used A LOT for trading)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Reliable (no sudden lags and missed/duplicate keys - unforgivable in gaming)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Slim (it was 'required' before, for typing speed, but I had to sacrifice it to broaden the choices)&#xD;&#xA; - Ability to charge by USB cable while continuing to use&#xD;&#xA; - AA/AAA or other conventional batteries&#xD;&#xA; - mini receiver (for travelling)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have been using **Logitech K800** (so basically looking for better alternative). But there were two issues with it: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Key scissor mechanisms are very fragile (so now 8 of them are broken beyond repair)&#xD;&#xA;- Illumination turns on either on sensor (and stays on for non-configurable period of about 5 sec) or key press (and then it is possible to configure for how long it is on). Both ways are inconvenient first due to sensor range and second due to the need to press smth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I won't find anything I'll have to buy new K800 of course, but it is rather sad surprise that keyboard makers were unable to create anything better for the last 8 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9934" RevisionGUID="060c45f1-577a-490b-9753-aef57659d41a" CreationDate="2018-10-25T00:04:21.493" UserId="10033" Text="Keyboard for night MMO gaming on plasma TV (please advice)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9934" RevisionGUID="060c45f1-577a-490b-9753-aef57659d41a" CreationDate="2018-10-25T00:04:21.493" UserId="10033" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32982" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9904" RevisionGUID="228472bc-0f2b-48cb-b3a3-5e2e4443b0f7" CreationDate="2018-10-25T04:51:47.523" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="32988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9937" RevisionGUID="b65fc9ca-394b-46bc-80fa-feed1b819f02" CreationDate="2018-10-25T12:02:24.780" UserId="10036" Text="I have ASUS ROG STRIX B450-F which uses the AMD B450 chipset, I plan on adding 2 SATA drives in a RAID 1 configuration and am trying to determine if there is any advantage to using 7200rpm drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found posts from a few years back that indicated that there was no point in using 7200 rpm drives because the RAID controller was the bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this still the case? Is anyone able to find any specs on the B450 chipset RAID Controller?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9937" RevisionGUID="b65fc9ca-394b-46bc-80fa-feed1b819f02" CreationDate="2018-10-25T12:02:24.780" UserId="10036" Text="Should I choose 5400rpm or 7200rpm hdds for setup RAID 1 on B450 AMD Chipset board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9937" RevisionGUID="b65fc9ca-394b-46bc-80fa-feed1b819f02" CreationDate="2018-10-25T12:02:24.780" UserId="10036" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32993" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="9aceee06-d5d7-4215-aaa0-585fbfae2743" CreationDate="2018-10-25T14:00:17.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="32997" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9939" RevisionGUID="6c6532f5-ca64-456a-a2b4-8742edcacfe3" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:54:53.500" UserId="10039" Text="Are you aware of some displays meeting requirements mentioned in title? I was looking for a long while but couldn't find anything. Most panels with all mentioned features are 4k or miss HDR. Could you recommend me anything?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32998" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9939" RevisionGUID="6c6532f5-ca64-456a-a2b4-8742edcacfe3" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:54:53.500" UserId="10039" Text="QHD + 144Hz + G-Sync + HDR + IPS + 27“-32”?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32999" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9939" RevisionGUID="6c6532f5-ca64-456a-a2b4-8742edcacfe3" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:54:53.500" UserId="10039" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33000" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="5038dabb-26e7-4148-9c28-b91850d46d21" CreationDate="2018-10-26T02:00:53.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33002" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9940" RevisionGUID="694c0853-71f7-4695-bf25-cfe5458ae516" CreationDate="2018-10-26T03:02:59.613" UserId="6047" Text="Here are G-Sync HDR equipped 1440p, IPS monitors that can ship to the UK today (I gleaned this off your profile). I could only find monitors that come with 165 Hz, but if it is an absolute necessity you have 144, you can set this in your operating system. The technical specs seems pretty much the same so take your pick of brand. Be ready to drop some serious cash if you want monitors with these exact specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[£538.98 - ViewSonic - XG2703-GS][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[£548.99 - AOC - AG271QG][2]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[£599.98 - Acer - XB271HU][3]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[£669.59 - Asus - PG279Q ROG][4]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference: [PC Part Picker query][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/c8zZxr/viewsonic-xg2703-gs-270-2560x1440-165hz-monitor-xg2703-gs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/scM323/aoc-ag271qg-270-165hz-monitor-ag271qg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/XvfmP6/asus-monitor-pg279q&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#H=144,240&amp;r=256001440&amp;p=1&amp;A=1&amp;sort=price&amp;xcx=0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33007" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9906" RevisionGUID="607988ff-42cd-4919-a453-b46b602dc07f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T05:01:24.530" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9942" RevisionGUID="e9c11201-f46c-4e5a-9936-899f210d103f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T07:50:42.373" UserId="2222" Text="I'm currently looking for a new phone as my Nexus 5X passed away recently. My boss was so kind to give be a bonus in the form that the company will buy me a new phone in the 300€ to 350€ range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least Full HD&#xD;&#xA; - USB C (possibly w/ USB 3.0)&#xD;&#xA; - No notch&#xD;&#xA; - Headphone Jack&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB of ram or more&#xD;&#xA; - 4G+ (or at least 4G)&#xD;&#xA; - 5&quot; to 5.8&quot; screen size possibly&#xD;&#xA; - CPU at least as powerful as the Nexus 5X&#xD;&#xA; - Camera is not super important but at least as good as the Nexus 5X&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - A whole day of battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NFC&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM and microSD (absolutely not necessary)&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio (I dislike 18:9 but I can live with it I guess..)&#xD;&#xA; - IR&#xD;&#xA; - Lineage OS support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33014" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9942" RevisionGUID="e9c11201-f46c-4e5a-9936-899f210d103f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T07:50:42.373" UserId="2222" Text="Mid-range Smarthphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33015" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9942" RevisionGUID="e9c11201-f46c-4e5a-9936-899f210d103f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T07:50:42.373" UserId="2222" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33016" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="4f969692-a677-45d5-9feb-94911dad1049" CreationDate="2018-10-26T09:00:42.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33020" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9482" RevisionGUID="a5769372-66ee-48fe-8368-8d6e84d85656" CreationDate="2018-10-26T11:00:02.613" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33022" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="58c2dcea-3de6-4b7a-9fb0-f6445ea894f2" CreationDate="2018-10-26T12:00:41.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33023" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9945" RevisionGUID="8550de3e-eb6a-49e0-bf7b-0e008a47edce" CreationDate="2018-10-26T12:09:18.983" UserId="9993" Text="Seems like the [Mate 9 Pro](https://www.gsmarena.com/huawei_mate_9_pro-8396.php) fits (lamost) all your desires: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least Full HD: **check (QHD)**&#xD;&#xA; - USB C (possibly w/ USB 3.0): **half check (USB C but 2.0)**&#xD;&#xA; - No notch: **check**&#xD;&#xA; - Headphone Jack: **check**&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB of ram or more: **check (4 or 6GB)**&#xD;&#xA; - 4G+ (or at least 4G): **check (4G+)**&#xD;&#xA; - 5&quot; to 5.8&quot; screen size possibly: **check (5.5&quot;)**&#xD;&#xA; - CPU at least as powerful as the Nexus 5X: **check (octa core Kirin 960)**&#xD;&#xA; - Camera is not super important but at least as good as the Nexus 5X: **check**&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB internal storage: **check 64 or 128GB**&#xD;&#xA; - A whole day of battery: **check (4000mAh)**&#xD;&#xA; - NFC: **check**&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM and microSD (absolutely not necessary): **half check (dual sim, no µSD, but 64/128GB internal huh)**&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio (I dislike 18:9 but I can live with it I guess..): **check**&#xD;&#xA; - IR: **check**&#xD;&#xA; - Lineage OS support: **check**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price depends on your country, I found quite easily 350/360€ models in France. (maybe good deals during Black Friday ?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9947" RevisionGUID="47f7f0a1-1593-409f-b81b-834cc9f4632f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T13:15:21.537" UserId="10043" Text="For my scientific research I need to know the most popular phone processors to know their FLOPS parameters. But I can't find a some resource about it. I could find the best mobile processors only (but I need the average parameters, not the best).  &#xD;&#xA;**Does anyone know sites or some another ways where to get a list of the most popular phone processors?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33028" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9947" RevisionGUID="47f7f0a1-1593-409f-b81b-834cc9f4632f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T13:15:21.537" UserId="10043" Text="Which are the most popular phone processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33029" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9947" RevisionGUID="47f7f0a1-1593-409f-b81b-834cc9f4632f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T13:15:21.537" UserId="10043" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9948" RevisionGUID="13dfbb69-794a-4573-9650-f335b2e20d68" CreationDate="2018-10-26T13:34:48.260" UserId="9993" Text="You could look at this: https://deviceatlas.com/blog/most-popular-smartphones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It gives the 12 most popular phones by country." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33041" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="2cc3b3f4-e0ce-4d60-aeb1-b26a2c943224" CreationDate="2018-10-26T15:00:34.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33042" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="e5b1aa22-e50d-4ecc-9479-429e4c155787" CreationDate="2018-10-26T16:00:42.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33044" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="e02f4193-b99a-4105-8ecb-1461d8747f0b" CreationDate="2018-10-26T18:01:18.060" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33045" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="10594d43-cc6c-48fd-b569-d3f1265ce19c" CreationDate="2018-10-26T19:00:38.010" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="9e522778-8167-4073-ba68-1b1d7862212f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T19:27:54.250" UserId="9251" Text="Is there a clear touch pad that goes over the screen or mouse that would allow access to a cracked phone?&#xD;&#xA;So many time I could have used something like this I can see everything fine but the crack messes up the touch screen. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33047" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="9e522778-8167-4073-ba68-1b1d7862212f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T19:27:54.250" UserId="9251" Text="Crack screen alternative touch pad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33048" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="9e522778-8167-4073-ba68-1b1d7862212f" CreationDate="2018-10-26T19:27:54.250" UserId="9251" Text="&lt;mouse-pad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33052" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="8cc02a4e-c718-4593-8d3d-6539d827b4e0" CreationDate="2018-10-26T22:00:58.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33058" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="62eacc84-7361-457e-847e-df7eda2072c6" CreationDate="2018-10-27T09:00:45.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33063" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="79199ab3-bb66-488f-a946-bb17b9b707d7" CreationDate="2018-10-27T17:00:29.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33066" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9804" RevisionGUID="60540ba9-2bf2-44ff-8d44-f65b85ef9352" CreationDate="2018-10-27T22:00:45.873" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33067" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="b247e212-2f33-4735-ba48-078d95b94371" CreationDate="2018-10-27T23:00:28.807" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9956" RevisionGUID="df232e44-56ac-40f3-b84d-e0de6164aa6f" CreationDate="2018-10-28T07:37:28.410" UserId="9912" Text="Ultimately I did buy the Dell U2718Q, when it was on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very happy with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop and the U2718Q are both capable of 3840x2160, but I'm running them at 2560x1600.  U2718Q via the mini display port cable it shipped with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The text size and sharpness works well for me.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9957" RevisionGUID="606204ba-1e90-4694-bce0-2d03840723d0" CreationDate="2018-10-28T12:42:30.417" UserId="9820" Text="The last known upgradable MBP is mid-2012 release.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MBP MID-2012**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *2.9GHz I7-3520M up to 3.6GHz&#xD;&#xA; - *16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM (Upgrade from 4GB)&#xD;&#xA; - *128GB SSD (Upgrade from HDD)&#xD;&#xA; - *1TB HDD (Replaced CD ROM)&#xD;&#xA; - *HD Graphics 4000&#xD;&#xA; - *13.3&quot; 1280x800 NON-RETINA DISPLAY&#xD;&#xA; - *Supports MacOS Mojave 10.14 (I believe that 10.15 will not support this release anymore as 10.14 drops support on MBP 2011).&#xD;&#xA; - *Costs around **750USD** (Upgrades included).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**MBP MID-2017**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *2.3GHz I5-7360U up to 3.6GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *8GB LPDDR3 2133MHz RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *128GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *Iris Plus Graphics 640&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *13.3&quot; 2560x1600 RETINA DISPLAY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *Supports MacOS Mojave 10.14 (Probably will support updates in the next 5 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - *Costs around **1,220USD**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am only planning to use it on software/mobile application (Android &amp; iOS)/website development. Do you think newer MBP is worth it? I don't really care about the display that much." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9957" RevisionGUID="606204ba-1e90-4694-bce0-2d03840723d0" CreationDate="2018-10-28T12:42:30.417" UserId="9820" Text="Which Macbook Pro to buy? MID-2012 or MID-2017?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9957" RevisionGUID="606204ba-1e90-4694-bce0-2d03840723d0" CreationDate="2018-10-28T12:42:30.417" UserId="9820" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="5145b58f-06e7-4fe5-84ca-cf030ce0615b" CreationDate="2018-10-28T15:12:29.810" UserId="9251" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Is there a clear touch pad that goes over the screen or mouse that would allow access to a cracked phone?&#xD;&#xA;So many time I could have used something like this. I can see everything fine but the crack messes up the touch screen. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33076" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="933765b8-b8ce-43ac-962f-d4b17af599e1" CreationDate="2018-10-28T15:16:03.933" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33078" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="8f1c8c26-c520-4e7f-95dc-f87fd8c2121e" CreationDate="2018-10-28T16:00:01.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33079" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="246e93e6-254c-4a6d-b1a8-2171670e9bfa" CreationDate="2018-10-28T17:24:10.277" UserId="9251" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="Is there a clear touch pad that goes over the screen or mouse that would allow access to a cracked phone?&#xD;&#xA;So many times I could have used something like this. I can see everything fine but the crack messes up the touch screen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having a conflict between 2 pieces of hardware. I was hoping someone could tell me if there is such hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9942" RevisionGUID="1afe014e-5235-4c82-a1e6-4884c8abc0e1" CreationDate="2018-10-28T21:37:17.010" UserId="2222" Comment="added fingerprint reader and removed IR since it was really just a gimmick (would be nice anyways though)" Text="I'm currently looking for a new phone as my Nexus 5X passed away recently. My boss was so kind to give be a bonus in the form that the company will buy me a new phone in the 300€ to 350€ range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least Full HD&#xD;&#xA; - USB C (possibly w/ USB 3.0)&#xD;&#xA; - No notch&#xD;&#xA; - Headphone Jack&#xD;&#xA; - 4 GB of ram or more&#xD;&#xA; - 4G+ (or at least 4G)&#xD;&#xA; - 5&quot; to 5.8&quot; screen size possibly&#xD;&#xA; - CPU at least as powerful as the Nexus 5X&#xD;&#xA; - Camera is not super important but at least as good as the Nexus 5X&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB internal storage&#xD;&#xA; - A whole day of battery&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint reader preferably on the back&#xD;&#xA; - NFC&#xD;&#xA; - Dual SIM and microSD (absolutely not necessary)&#xD;&#xA; - 16:9 aspect ratio (I dislike 18:9 but I can live with it I guess..)&#xD;&#xA; - Lineage OS support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33081" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="7806" RevisionGUID="faf64c5c-0e77-458c-bdf0-5a95ac6b0d39" CreationDate="2018-10-28T22:00:39.490" UserId="-1" Comment="78" />
  <row Id="33082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9959" RevisionGUID="6eb44ea6-013d-49bf-b317-a111065875e6" CreationDate="2018-10-29T00:59:52.010" UserId="10055" Text="I'm looking to upgrade my computers graphics from integrated graphics to a dedicated graphics card. My question is two fold:&#xA;&#xA; 1. Is this the PCI Express slot?[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA; 2. With an AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7, 12 Compute Cores 4C and 8GB RAM, what would you recommend as an ideal graphics card to run let's say Civ 6 on high settings?&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NtZbk.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33083" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9959" RevisionGUID="6eb44ea6-013d-49bf-b317-a111065875e6" CreationDate="2018-10-29T00:59:52.010" UserId="10055" Text="Advice on graphics card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33084" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9959" RevisionGUID="6eb44ea6-013d-49bf-b317-a111065875e6" CreationDate="2018-10-29T00:59:52.010" UserId="10055" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33085" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="d1c680ca-78b7-470f-ba68-700ac94dbf20" CreationDate="2018-10-29T04:00:16.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9960" RevisionGUID="f30a51ea-532a-4c68-9a23-0a073de9cae1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T07:47:00.287" UserId="9993" Text="this is indeed a PCIe slot (x16).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The built-in GPU could possibly make it for low/medium settings but if you want high / play to other games, I would recommand a little card like a 1050Ti (roughly 170€ / 160£ / 170$).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you have to know that this CPU is not the best for gaming and could limit with games relying a lot on CPU." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="bb9df404-3639-4e15-9aa1-4ee1ed0e368c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:07:52.210" UserId="10056" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rs or can increase some buget if getting better features I would like to play players unknown battleground,clash of clans,clash Royale bit Instagram,facebook, WhatsApp also need type c port, good battery life 4000mah if possible need performance for medium graphics gaming or higher if possible want to buy phone in india 2 sim 1 sd port non hybrid sim any suggestions with specification are most welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33088" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="bb9df404-3639-4e15-9aa1-4ee1ed0e368c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:07:52.210" UserId="10056" Text="Andriod phone under 15000 Rs Indian currency" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33089" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="bb9df404-3639-4e15-9aa1-4ee1ed0e368c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:07:52.210" UserId="10056" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33090" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9962" RevisionGUID="2650435a-4dcf-464e-a015-332a0d2299bf" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:12:44.273" UserId="10056" Text="Rx 560 and Gtx 1050Ti are way to go according to your needs but your processor doesn't seem to get full use of these graphics card if possible upgrade to minimum ryzen 3 or intel i3 otherwise you can get 40+ fps with your amd apu buy any of them which is cheaper in your country and you can see benchmarks on YouTube with your apu paired with these two Gpus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9962" RevisionGUID="7f84a346-ac8c-4f6f-964d-3df9e23cd0ac" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:26:37.540" UserId="10056" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="Rx 560 and Gtx 1050Ti are way to go according to your needs but your processor doesn't seem to get full use of these graphics card if possible upgrade to minimum ryzen 3 or intel i3 otherwise you can get 40+ fps on high settings with your amd apu buy any of them which is cheaper in your country and you can see benchmarks on YouTube with your apu paired with these two Gpus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33092" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="2d70cc29-97f2-4064-b576-45c7b05d238a" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:30:47.090" UserId="10056" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rupees or can increase some buget if getting better features I would like to play players unknown battleground,clash of clans,clash Royale bit Instagram,facebook, WhatsApp also need type c port, good battery life 4000mah if possible need performance for medium graphics gaming or higher if possible want to buy phone in india 2 sim 1 sd port non hybrid sim any suggestions with specification are most welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33093" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="2d70cc29-97f2-4064-b576-45c7b05d238a" CreationDate="2018-10-29T08:30:47.090" UserId="10056" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="Andriod phone under 15000 Rupees Indian currency" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="30dce7d7-2407-4c30-bf8e-35f403053383" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:28:43.980" UserId="10057" Text="I live off the grid, with an office powered only by solar panels. My main work machine currently is a Macbook Pro. For various reasons, I want to ease off it and build a small, extremely energy-efficient desktop workstation. It would be in use about 10 hours during a typical day, with many spikes in resource usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may have to take the workstation on travels a couple times a year so it should be compact. There is a specific, very good-looking fanless case that I would like to use that comes in Mini ITX format. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand things well enough to make informed energy-efficient choices re CPU, storage, etc., but the choice of mainboard remains a puzzle! Apparently, they all tend to consume 35-50 Watts while idling. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI offers the [H100M Eco][1] which promises an idle consumption of 16 Watts, but its form factor is Micro ATX! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas would be welcome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-ECO.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="30dce7d7-2407-4c30-bf8e-35f403053383" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:28:43.980" UserId="10057" Text="Extremely energy-efficient, modern mini-ITX mainboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="30dce7d7-2407-4c30-bf8e-35f403053383" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:28:43.980" UserId="10057" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="4b7b88ab-86f3-4153-a576-83cb8b890697" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:43:28.297" UserId="10057" Comment="added 105 characters in body" Text="I live off the grid, with an office powered only by solar panels. My main work machine currently is a Macbook Pro. For various reasons, I want to ease off it and build a small, extremely energy-efficient desktop workstation. It would be in use about 10 hours during a typical day, with many spikes in resource usage (programming, desktop publishing, Photoshop, but no 3D, so decent on-board graphics might be sufficient).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I may have to take the workstation on travels a couple times a year so it should be compact. There is a specific, very good-looking fanless case that I would like to use that comes in Mini ITX format. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand things well enough to make informed energy-efficient choices re CPU, storage, etc., but the choice of mainboard remains a puzzle! Apparently, they all tend to consume 35-50 Watts while idling. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI offers the [H100M Eco][1] which promises an idle consumption of 16 Watts, but its form factor is Micro ATX! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas would be welcome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-ECO.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33098" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="4b7b88ab-86f3-4153-a576-83cb8b890697" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:43:28.297" UserId="10057" Comment="added 105 characters in body" Text="Looking for extremely energy-efficient (&lt;30W), somewhat modern mini-ITX mainboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="fa1e5386-c9bd-4a81-97c2-c75b59305c88" CreationDate="2018-10-29T11:24:04.583" UserId="10056" Comment="added 27 characters in body; added 60 characters in body" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rupees or can increase some buget if getting better features  &#xA;&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - I would like to play Players unknown battleground(PUBG), Clash of clans, Clash Royale bit Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Also need type c port, good battery life 4000mah&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - If possible need performance for medium graphics gaming or higher if possible &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Want to buy phone in india 2 sim 1 sd port non hybrid sim.&#xA;&#xA; - Andriod 8,Full hd display&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Any suggestions with specification are most welcome.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33100" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="1a6c6c8e-1fa9-4b58-b263-9bf584dd672b" CreationDate="2018-10-29T11:29:31.973" UserId="10056" Comment="added 7 characters in body; edited title; added 6 characters in body" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rupees (250$) or can increase some buget if getting better features  &#xA;&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - I would like to play Players unknown battleground(PUBG), Clash of clans, Clash Royale bit Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Also need type c port, good battery life 4000mah&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - If possible need performance for medium graphics gaming or higher if possible &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - Want to buy phone in india 2 sim 1 SD Card port non hybrid sim.&#xA;&#xA; - Andriod 8, Full HD Display&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Any suggestions with specification are most welcome.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33101" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="1a6c6c8e-1fa9-4b58-b263-9bf584dd672b" CreationDate="2018-10-29T11:29:31.973" UserId="10056" Comment="added 7 characters in body; edited title; added 6 characters in body" Text="Andriod phone under 15000 Rupees Indian currency (250$)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9964" RevisionGUID="9a956ef5-3437-4981-b14a-9c7568b9ec43" CreationDate="2018-10-29T13:39:13.413" UserId="10061" Text="I'm looking for a high luminosity tolerant USB camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm working on a project in which I have to install a small USB camera in a surgical illumination device. The objective is to stream videos of surgeries to students in medical schools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently working with an ELP-USBFHD06H-FV Sony Lens (http://www.webcamerausb.com/elpusbfhd06hfv-sony-lens-usb-with-webcam-p-198.html) camera. This camera works well under low luminosity, however when the illumination system is turned on some filtering must be applied to the video, such as exposure and brightness manipulation. This is where the problem arises: when the filtering is applied in the high luminosity scenario the image quality gets severely degraded (being the main issue the appearance of interference beats).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This quality degradation is the reason why I'm looking for a high luminosity tolerant USB camera. The luminosity measure under which I'm working is 140000 lux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend an USB camera the would work well under the given conditions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommendations to other, more specialized, forums would also be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9964" RevisionGUID="9a956ef5-3437-4981-b14a-9c7568b9ec43" CreationDate="2018-10-29T13:39:13.413" UserId="10061" Text="High luminosity tolerant USB camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9964" RevisionGUID="9a956ef5-3437-4981-b14a-9c7568b9ec43" CreationDate="2018-10-29T13:39:13.413" UserId="10061" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33105" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="5fc5fa02-3cdf-441e-83ac-b94de5e1bfb3" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:00:35.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33106" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="1cb0cd69-d6aa-4f8d-b237-5b1d33e34c67" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:16:37.290" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling/grammar" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rupees (250$) or can increase some budget if getting better features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - I would like to play Player Unknown's Battlegrounds(PUBG), Clash of clans, Clash Royale,Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Also need type-C port, good battery life (4000mah)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - If possible need performance for medium graphics gaming or higher if possible &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Want to buy phone in India - 2 sim, 1 SD Card port, non hybrid sim.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Android 8, Full HD Display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Any suggestions with specification are most welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33107" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="1cb0cd69-d6aa-4f8d-b237-5b1d33e34c67" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:16:37.290" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling/grammar" Text="Android phone under 15000 Rupees Indian currency ($250)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33108" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="1cb0cd69-d6aa-4f8d-b237-5b1d33e34c67" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:16:37.290" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by -1 edit id of 748" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9961" RevisionGUID="ac480114-4157-4020-96c0-567f23a51d0e" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:16:37.290" UserId="60" Comment="spelling/grammar" Text="I would like to buy an Android phone for gaming under 15000 rupees ($250). The budget can be increased slightly if the phone has better features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I would like to play Player Unknown's Battlegrounds(PUBG), Clash of Clans, Clash Royale, Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp&#xD;&#xA; - Performance for medium graphics gaming or higher &#xD;&#xA; - Type-C port&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life (4000 mAh)&#xD;&#xA; - 2 sim, 1 SD Card port, non hybrid sim.&#xD;&#xA; - Android 8, Full HD Display&#xD;&#xA; - Able to purchase in India &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions with the specifications are most welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33110" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9959" RevisionGUID="f856d603-c3a7-4790-a87c-6b417be5fff9" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:17:25.357" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9965" RevisionGUID="f4f562b2-fe1e-4610-9ae6-e4ef072df153" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:40:05.477" UserId="10063" Text="I'm looking for a way to connect a mobile device to a generic computer device wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simply converting the normal micro usb / type c / lightning cable into a wireless micro usb / type c / lightning cable accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;there shell be 2 dongles:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; one USB type A which will be plugged to the PC / car, it will soak power from the PC, and transfer every I/O data from the USB to some 2.4GHz channel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the second one will have micro USB / type c / lightning port interface and operates the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and these devices will simulate being plugged by wire while actually the phone and the PC device aren't attached.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device out there in the market?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33114" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9965" RevisionGUID="f4f562b2-fe1e-4610-9ae6-e4ef072df153" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:40:05.477" UserId="10063" Text="wireless mobile cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33115" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9965" RevisionGUID="f4f562b2-fe1e-4610-9ae6-e4ef072df153" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:40:05.477" UserId="10063" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9966" RevisionGUID="67d04755-88fd-4e0e-8fb9-a7a554e8be6c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:50:44.887" UserId="10060" Text="I'm looking for a Ultrabook with this characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Essential**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8th or 7th generation of CPU. (i5, i7 or amd)&#xD;&#xA; - Not more than 13&quot;/14&quot; of screen size.&#xD;&#xA; - Very important the weight... i need to travel with him.&#xD;&#xA; - 6 GB of ram or more.&#xD;&#xA; - Not more of 1200-1300€. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These features are essential because I need this ultrabook to work, I do not need it for games, so the graphics card is not important for me, I am a developer and I need good hardware to work with Virtualbox, Eclipse, VisualCode, IntelliJ and similar... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Others**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Good battery life, but i don't care about have more than 9 hours, with 6 or more it's okay.&#xD;&#xA; - I don't' want a Microsoft surface or similar products.&#xD;&#xA; - I don't need a touch screen.&#xD;&#xA; - In general, good opinions in internet about the model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some reference models: Asus Zenbook 3, Dell Xps 13, some Thinkpad... I'm looking for a good argumentation for help me to decide abaout all Ultrabook offers and this argumentes based in a experience working with the model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33117" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9966" RevisionGUID="67d04755-88fd-4e0e-8fb9-a7a554e8be6c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:50:44.887" UserId="10060" Text="Searching the perfect ultrabook for me" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33118" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9966" RevisionGUID="67d04755-88fd-4e0e-8fb9-a7a554e8be6c" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:50:44.887" UserId="10060" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33119" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9947" RevisionGUID="a1c82498-9735-4daa-a7a0-593cb8c390ea" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:58:58.033" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33123" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9968" RevisionGUID="e2d7981e-e955-40a5-a68a-6607814cadaa" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:23:57.837" UserId="9883" Text="I have a Macbook Pro (13 inch, two Thunderbolt 3 ports) connected to two external monitors. I'm looking to purchase a GPU to sit in an eGPU enclosure (the [AKiTiO node][1]) purely to be able to support more external monitors. So I don't need the GPU to be especially performant (right?), just to be able to support e.g. 4 external monitors, not of an especially high resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will a Thunderbolt-3 connected eGPU really allow me to use multiple monitors through it? I know it can at least support 1 (at the cost of one thunderbolt port anyway)&#xD;&#xA; - Is GPU performance really unimportant here if I'm only displaying e.g. desktop applications (e.g. text editors) on the external monitors?&#xD;&#xA; - What GPU would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.akitio.com/expansion/node" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33124" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9968" RevisionGUID="e2d7981e-e955-40a5-a68a-6607814cadaa" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:23:57.837" UserId="9883" Text="Macbook eGPU to be used only for external monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33125" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9968" RevisionGUID="e2d7981e-e955-40a5-a68a-6607814cadaa" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:23:57.837" UserId="9883" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33128" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="c4f7ac88-fca1-4a4c-8d07-d945e1418168" CreationDate="2018-10-29T21:59:08.527" UserId="9251" Comment="added 42 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is there a touch pad that goes over the screen or mouse that would allow navigation to a phone in which the main touch screen is no longer working?&#xD;&#xA;So many times I could have used something like this. I can see everything fine but the crack messes up the touch screen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not having a conflict between 2 pieces of hardware. I was hoping someone could tell me if there is such hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33129" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9953" RevisionGUID="c4f7ac88-fca1-4a4c-8d07-d945e1418168" CreationDate="2018-10-29T21:59:08.527" UserId="9251" Comment="added 42 characters in body; edited title" Text="What is an aftermarket devise that performs a convenient navigation of a phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9971" RevisionGUID="5e2b3a24-5d47-4bd3-98ef-b8d4e43a5c87" CreationDate="2018-10-30T00:11:40.847" UserId="10067" Text="I want play pubg mobile on pc at 60 fps and smoothly without any lag. I think to buy an 8 Gb ram cpu with 1 Tb memory and I am confused which processor and graphics card to buy for comlplete 60 fps gaming but I want to buy the cpu under ₹ 30000 or $ 450." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9971" RevisionGUID="5e2b3a24-5d47-4bd3-98ef-b8d4e43a5c87" CreationDate="2018-10-30T00:11:40.847" UserId="10067" Text="I want to buy a new cpu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9971" RevisionGUID="5e2b3a24-5d47-4bd3-98ef-b8d4e43a5c87" CreationDate="2018-10-30T00:11:40.847" UserId="10067" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33136" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="f26bb9ef-694c-4956-94b5-a297c6e51e66" CreationDate="2018-10-30T01:00:43.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33137" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="a6a30825-e7f9-49bb-bc65-e9ee0f638a86" CreationDate="2018-10-30T02:00:32.980" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33141" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9544" RevisionGUID="c0cbcaa5-c844-412f-ba3c-edbaa4d97496" CreationDate="2018-10-30T04:01:43.790" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33142" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="bdacf67a-f4a8-4435-8e4e-6609281d1762" CreationDate="2018-10-30T08:00:48.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33144" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9963" RevisionGUID="f2f9fa7e-ccef-4e50-9ace-6b8e892d881e" CreationDate="2018-10-30T08:43:26.163" UserId="10057" Comment="edited title" Text="Looking for very energy-efficient (&lt;30W) mini-ITX mainboard, ideally with 7th gen Intel support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33152" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9687" RevisionGUID="296a85a4-eb40-44b0-950c-f0f42db32235" CreationDate="2018-10-30T11:00:00.767" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33153" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9966" RevisionGUID="2b745db6-66eb-426e-89e7-3a53ea0d4990" CreationDate="2018-10-30T11:04:20.577" UserId="10060" Comment="edited title" Text="Searching a good Ultrabook for work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9977" RevisionGUID="3357825f-6b42-439a-b605-9ca649a3528d" CreationDate="2018-10-30T12:51:49.243" UserId="10071" Text="If you didn't want to keep the same monitors, you could use something like [Mouse Without Borders][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A KVM switch would also do the trick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=35460&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9978" RevisionGUID="4ce28f7f-a45c-4ddd-9c74-76cdb452daf8" CreationDate="2018-10-30T13:04:04.030" UserId="10071" Text="Since you are going to upgrade your CPU, you should consider AMD. I don't know what problems you encountered in the past, but the latest Ryzen CPUs are well worth their price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had the same hesitation but I bought the 2700X to give it a try - paired with an x470 board. It's a beast, it can do rendering, streaming, gaming, all at the same time. I believe it's the most VFM option these days - hands down. And the best part is some new AMD technologies that allow the CPU to reach [it's maximum overclock abilities automatically, without tweaking a single setting.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel has a bad availability these days, so prices have gone way high for their value. That said, a 8700K would also cover your needs - consider it being it the same as 2700X performance-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcsteps.com/18929-ryzen-2700x-review/#Precision_Boost_2_and_XFR_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9979" RevisionGUID="5ef2bf51-2ef3-4208-8f9b-f2c19aa0d6bd" CreationDate="2018-10-30T13:08:49.627" UserId="10071" Text="The graphics card is what will help you to play the game without problems.&#xD;&#xA;For CPUs you can consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD 2600X&#xD;&#xA; - i5 8600K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you also want a strong GPU, at least a GTX 1060." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33157" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9980" RevisionGUID="dc660b2f-a7bc-4f06-aad2-0f8c53928091" CreationDate="2018-10-30T13:25:49.997" UserId="6209" Text="Get :&#xD;&#xA;Ryzen 5 1600&#xD;&#xA;B450 Motherboard (Probably from ASROCK or anything with beafy VRMs)&#xD;&#xA;16GB DDR4 3000Mhz (You can probably overlock them)&#xD;&#xA;Radeon 580 or GTX 1060 (Or something similar)&#xD;&#xA;Get a 128GB SSD (Boot Drive) and a 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That should be pretty much it. Not sure tho.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33158" PostHistoryTypeId="16" PostId="9980" RevisionGUID="4bebac68-8208-4a50-80ea-0906486ac70c" CreationDate="2018-10-30T13:25:49.997" UserId="6209" />
  <row Id="33165" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9971" RevisionGUID="213e99aa-05ef-4900-8626-9344edc06ba8" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:10:56.497" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33167" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="20bfef5f-216f-46f8-ae26-c3ff7c1fcb11" CreationDate="2018-10-30T18:00:02.277" UserId="-1" Comment="79" />
  <row Id="33168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9965" RevisionGUID="0838351b-9c66-48c7-95a0-93ad0fcdb854" CreationDate="2018-10-30T18:31:28.010" UserId="10063" Comment="added visual illustration for better understanding" Text="I'm looking for a way to connect a mobile device to a generic computer device wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simply converting the normal micro usb / type c / lightning cable into a wireless micro usb / type c / lightning cable accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;there shell be 2 dongles:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; one USB type A which will be plugged to the PC / car, it will soak power from the PC, and transfer every I/O data from the USB to some 2.4GHz channel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the second one will have micro USB / type c / lightning port interface and operates the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and these devices will simulate being plugged by wire while actually the phone and the PC device aren't attached.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Visual motivative illustration:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the above picture, theres comparison between old normal way (above) of connecting phone to a PC device using normal cable, just plugin each one and they communicate through the cable vs the new way (below) using two dongles, who simulate **the same functionality** but over the air.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a device out there in the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3QSx.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33172" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9984" RevisionGUID="6aaaa5e4-57c4-401d-90cd-dd3a8c502b07" CreationDate="2018-10-30T20:20:33.520" UserId="10063" Text="So I found this on the search&#xD;&#xA;https://huddlecamhd.com/usb2air/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which pretty much do what I asked for..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately its only for windows and very bulky so a better answer is still appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33177" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="63755c87-182b-476b-b8fe-013c26928b82" CreationDate="2018-10-30T23:00:32.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33178" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9986" RevisionGUID="f130d0d9-20d4-4334-80df-d03c12651523" CreationDate="2018-10-31T03:10:13.197" UserId="10075" Text="I've been reading up on VRMs, heatsinks, et al. on modern boards (e.g. b450, x470), and I'm a bit lost. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2700x, as you know, has XFR and can make use of PBO, and according to reports, this means that manually overclocking is basically a thing of the past. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, most boards, if you listen to at least some of the pros, have an insufficient power setup to properly supply the 2700x through to it's best (4.3ghz). Add to this that some makers, like MSI, don't have voltage offset, and it seems to me that you have yourself a problem that I don't know how to solve. This is in addition to concerns about thermal walls (e.g. the board will be your limit). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm wondering is, if a builder has a 2700x, requires wifi+bt and a decent sound option, and will be running a fairly hot card (let's say an rx580 as they are popular), is there a way to optimize for this type of setup? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33179" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9986" RevisionGUID="f130d0d9-20d4-4334-80df-d03c12651523" CreationDate="2018-10-31T03:10:13.197" UserId="10075" Text="How do I optimize performance of a 2700x without OC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33180" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9986" RevisionGUID="f130d0d9-20d4-4334-80df-d03c12651523" CreationDate="2018-10-31T03:10:13.197" UserId="10075" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33181" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="0bcae991-7488-4e84-a2d1-d4db8c791f64" CreationDate="2018-10-31T04:02:08.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33182" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="d214bee7-6d61-4fe2-bcc0-41133366ce31" CreationDate="2018-10-31T06:00:18.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9987" RevisionGUID="8aed222d-e998-474e-8f7a-e00b27c35e08" CreationDate="2018-10-31T07:50:22.363" UserId="9993" Text="&gt; The 2700x, as you know, has XFR and can make use of PBO, and according to reports, this means that manually overclocking is basically a thing of the past.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not quite, XFR is still better than OC Genie, AI Suite, etc, but not as good as manual OC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; However, most boards, if you listen to at least some of the pros, have an insufficient power setup to properly supply the 2700x through to it's best (4.3ghz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not only a problem of power capability but also a problem of power dissipation on low end cards. The power drawn is not huge, Tom's Hardware got 150W in extreme testing with AVX and 1.475V, which is not the reality. I would go even go further and assume that power dissipation is more an issue than MOSFETs power capabilities, on most cards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've quickly seen, the 4xx (unlike 3xx) from Gigabyte seem to have decent dissipators on MOSFETs, Asrock too.&#xD;&#xA;But anyway, if there's no OC, any decent card would be sufficient even with BT, Wifi and an Rx 580 unless you run it in a closed shoebox." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9989" RevisionGUID="2e5b76d7-779f-48f1-a0ea-4bc30df8ac3d" CreationDate="2018-10-31T14:10:27.820" UserId="10078" Text="What I'm looking for is something like a flight controller panel with customizable (makros) toggle switches similar to the ones found in airplanes.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdXH8.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure if this is in scope but I found nothing on google..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33188" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9989" RevisionGUID="2e5b76d7-779f-48f1-a0ea-4bc30df8ac3d" CreationDate="2018-10-31T14:10:27.820" UserId="10078" Text="Is there a programmable USB board with (momentary) toggle switches?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33189" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9989" RevisionGUID="2e5b76d7-779f-48f1-a0ea-4bc30df8ac3d" CreationDate="2018-10-31T14:10:27.820" UserId="10078" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9995" RevisionGUID="fe1919d6-49b0-4997-bef3-9b7d805cadf5" CreationDate="2018-11-02T04:43:45.533" UserId="10090" Text="It would seem to be physically possible to fit dozens of m.2 slots on a motherboard.  Why can't I find a motherboard with more than 3?   Surely servers would have a use case for more than 3 m.2 ssds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9995" RevisionGUID="fe1919d6-49b0-4997-bef3-9b7d805cadf5" CreationDate="2018-11-02T04:43:45.533" UserId="10090" Text="Why aren't there motherboards with boatloads of m.2 slots?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9995" RevisionGUID="fe1919d6-49b0-4997-bef3-9b7d805cadf5" CreationDate="2018-11-02T04:43:45.533" UserId="10090" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33206" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="65f4e8ae-d93d-473c-97d1-ffacbd9dcc1e" CreationDate="2018-11-02T05:00:35.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33207" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="7cb97524-013d-45b9-82c4-a0ca67c3907e" CreationDate="2018-11-02T06:00:04.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33208" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9996" RevisionGUID="f02fdd76-1e96-4fd6-b6c8-3dd7994f8ed1" CreationDate="2018-11-02T11:55:16.377" UserId="9896" Text="I am considering purchasing 2 Xeon 2667v2 CPUs to use in a dual CPU board. The [spec page](https://ark.intel.com/products/75273/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2667-v2-25M-Cache-3-30-GHz-) (click on &quot;Ordering and Compliance&quot; on the left) only lists a single step level:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does that mean that I don't need to worry about purchasing a &quot;matched pair&quot; of CPUs, and that any two of these CPUs should work in a dual CPU board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zz9uZ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33209" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9996" RevisionGUID="f02fdd76-1e96-4fd6-b6c8-3dd7994f8ed1" CreationDate="2018-11-02T11:55:16.377" UserId="9896" Text="Do I need a matched pair of Xeons for a dual CPU board if there is only one stepping level listed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33210" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9996" RevisionGUID="f02fdd76-1e96-4fd6-b6c8-3dd7994f8ed1" CreationDate="2018-11-02T11:55:16.377" UserId="9896" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33211" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="b96f92e0-964a-4aa7-9676-711246cb5134" CreationDate="2018-11-02T12:00:47.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33215" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="3ef80946-f4e7-408a-bc4b-3633f6bf6e6a" CreationDate="2018-11-02T14:00:35.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33216" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="92f74dc5-3ba8-4124-bf3e-adf04642e0bf" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:13:20.977" UserId="1921" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33217" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="e83269e6-c161-4fdb-a2e8-e7c9168d046b" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:21:01.343" UserId="1921" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="9999" RevisionGUID="9ea0c20e-7b30-411f-89c1-74b12d97baee" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:33:26.953" UserId="5581" Text="I am looking for a mouse which can be used wired (so data transfer via USB cable is possible) which has the option of a freely spinning mouse wheel and a secondary, horizontal wheel (not buttons for horizontal scrolling).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I found the [Logitech MX master](https://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/mx-master)/ [Logitech MX master 2S](https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-master-2s-flow) office mice, but they seem to be only available with wireless data transfer. Otherwise they would be very nice, I had one of those under my hand in the shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also fount the [madcatz R.A.T. 5 and madcatz R.A.T. 7 gaming mice](http://xahlee.info/kbd/madcatz_rat_gaming_mouse.html), but no information if they have free wheeling option for the vertical wheel. Do they?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a mouse with those specifications?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use them for office, so gaming features are not needed (though not bad, either, if the mouse is good)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33219" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="9999" RevisionGUID="9ea0c20e-7b30-411f-89c1-74b12d97baee" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:33:26.953" UserId="5581" Text="Wired USB mouse with freely spinning vertical wheel and a thumb wheel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33220" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="9999" RevisionGUID="9ea0c20e-7b30-411f-89c1-74b12d97baee" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:33:26.953" UserId="5581" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33221" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="1b145e9d-7097-4f95-ae9a-1ea18650bb32" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:35:47.863" UserId="1921" Comment="added 186 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;5.  You can't place them close to the PCIe slots due to potential pcie card over hang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&amp;ai=DChcSEwiMq7y8hLbeAhWFJmkKHSq4D_4YABAZGgJpcQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3t6MTcwHm1WdEACCQOhozV3m3Kgg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-47e8hLbeAhVrw4MKHTKOA2E4ZBDYKQiIAw&amp;adurl=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-00A1-00081&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10000" RevisionGUID="cbd034ed-b59c-4963-81af-07cad637d25b" CreationDate="2018-11-02T16:43:50.893" UserId="10093" Text="I'm newbie with pc-building and I found the [gigabyte's page][1] of the product this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 SATA and PCIe 3.0 x4/x2 SSD support)&#xD;&#xA;* Supports only M.2 SATA SSDs when using an AMD Athlon™ 200-series/ 7th Generation A-series or Athlon™ APU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now my question is:&#xD;&#xA;Does that note mean that I can only use  M.2 SATA when I have an Athlon and if I have ryzen only PCI-E? Or maybe that it doesn't support PCI-E with Athlon and with ryzen both?&#xD;&#xA;I have an [M.2(B+M) SSD][2] that should support both, but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with a [ryzen 2600X][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450M-DS3H-rev-10#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07BMXS6SH/?tag=pcp06-21&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07B428V2L/?tag=pcp06-21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33223" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10000" RevisionGUID="cbd034ed-b59c-4963-81af-07cad637d25b" CreationDate="2018-11-02T16:43:50.893" UserId="10093" Text="Gigabyte motherboard M.2 B450 DS3H specification grammar" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33224" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10000" RevisionGUID="cbd034ed-b59c-4963-81af-07cad637d25b" CreationDate="2018-11-02T16:43:50.893" UserId="10093" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33226" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="760f720c-53ff-4993-9e89-c6e1453e70c6" CreationDate="2018-11-03T00:01:36.020" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33230" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="6d5ca32e-63e0-4087-8727-950fa958cd56" CreationDate="2018-11-03T02:00:33.140" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9883" RevisionGUID="2316b32f-e761-4a75-9200-660f5e088217" CreationDate="2018-11-03T06:10:21.473" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="Its not *exactly* an NUC, but I ended up going with [ars technica's recommendation][1] and ordered something similar from Qotom (went with a core i3, 4gb of ram, and 128gb ssd, since I may choose to run other things on it - [this is the specific model][2]). They have more practical 2 port models, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I paid about 280USD, which compares well to a NUC, even if its slightly dated hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run a few other things on it, and I'm still working out the software setup. It comes with pfsense already installed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few little technical notes -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless adaptor that comes built in is a  AR9287. Its single band, and probably something I will replace in future. Its mini PCIe not M.2. Its probably worth dropping and replacing with something else. I'm not sure if the option without wireless comes with the mounting holes for the antennae so I left it in place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a msata slot (populated by an off brand, presumably MLC drive), and a power+data interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x intel I211 adaptors (not multiple adaptors on one interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x USB (2x 2.0 2x3.0), Serial (which was slightly amusing) and HDMI out for video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its *silent*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll take a beauty shot later, but that's in comparison with a NUC class machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4-Gigabit-LAN-ports-Mini-PC-Celeron-3215U-Core-i3-Core-i5-WIFI-using/32829499825.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6Db.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10006" RevisionGUID="2bed8d27-f7c7-4365-9efb-6b1fb3dfe2db" CreationDate="2018-11-03T15:16:31.407" UserId="2336" Text="Looking for a recommendation from users who **personally tested** some laser rangefinders (laser-tape). (So do **not** want recommendations based on the device specifications - (marketing blabla))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- mostly for indoor use (so, max. range not need be more as 40m)&#xD;&#xA;- wanted accuracy (and precision too) max. +- 2mm (would be better even less, 1.5mm or 1mm)&#xD;&#xA;- must have this accuracy at LOW DISTANCE (let say above 50cm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The low distance accuracy is the crucial point, because all tests what I saw says, that the laser rangefinder is accurate only at distances above 2 meters or like. At lower distances usually the measuring error is even 5 - 10 mm or more. So, let say if I want measure the inner width of my doorway (78.4cm) want get accurate result (max.) +- 2mm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be nice to also have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- trigonometric calculations&#xD;&#xA;- continuous measuring mode&#xD;&#xA;- low-cost (Chinese OK)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but the low-range accuracy is the really needed feature.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33246" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10006" RevisionGUID="2bed8d27-f7c7-4365-9efb-6b1fb3dfe2db" CreationDate="2018-11-03T15:16:31.407" UserId="2336" Text="Laser rangefinder (laser tape) for indoor - low range but high accuracy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33247" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10006" RevisionGUID="2bed8d27-f7c7-4365-9efb-6b1fb3dfe2db" CreationDate="2018-11-03T15:16:31.407" UserId="2336" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;laser&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;&lt;calculators&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10007" RevisionGUID="189e0f1c-db8b-4b14-81b8-7adaf0a9f68e" CreationDate="2018-11-03T16:31:41.487" UserId="10100" Text="I'm currently looking to buy a new Windows tablet for drawing. The problem is that I couldn't find an affordable tablet without any pen lag. The only tablets I know that have low lattency when drawings are the iPad 6 and iPad Pro. Are they any affordable windows tablet that has no pen lag ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10007" RevisionGUID="189e0f1c-db8b-4b14-81b8-7adaf0a9f68e" CreationDate="2018-11-03T16:31:41.487" UserId="10100" Text="Windows Tablet with no pen lag" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10007" RevisionGUID="189e0f1c-db8b-4b14-81b8-7adaf0a9f68e" CreationDate="2018-11-03T16:31:41.487" UserId="10100" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33251" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10007" RevisionGUID="788dea41-58e2-4679-b7e7-7641d6836962" CreationDate="2018-11-03T16:38:30.190" UserId="10100" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I'm currently looking to buy a new Windows tablet for drawing. The problem is that I couldn't find an affordable tablet without any pen lag. The only tablets I know that have low lattency when drawings are the iPad 6 and iPad Pro. Are they any affordable windows tablet that has no significant pen lag ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33253" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="14fb80f1-5674-4744-aa42-82f97e14e29c" CreationDate="2018-11-03T20:00:35.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10008" RevisionGUID="09e2e807-f714-49eb-8b05-526fc16986c3" CreationDate="2018-11-04T00:43:25.897" UserId="6089" Text="I have a Bosch DLR165, which appears to have been produced around 2010. It's possible that I purchased mine that far back, or from eBay in later years. I found only one in today's eBay listing, but based on my experience with this one, I'd purchase a newer Bosch product with confidence.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [manual][1] lists the maximum range at 50 meters, within your requirements. The manual also states a minimum of 50 millimeters. This I checked moments ago. I cannot attest to the precision/accuracy, but can confirm that when placed on a metric ruler, it reads 50 mm. I used an uncalibrated eyeball to place the tool and the opposite surface, but suggest that it would be within the specified 1.5 mm capability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When moved one mm closed, an error message appeared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a different type of test, I measured the span of my door frame. The top and bottom measured 2 mm narrower than the center of the vertical section of the door. When I placed the aforementioned ruler under the tool (1.9 mm thick), the measurement was reduced by 2 mm, indicating that my door frame is warped and that the tool recognized the distance change. Repeated measurements resulted in consistent results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This specific unit meets the &quot;nice to have&quot; list as well. As noted in the manual, there is a [trigonometric mode][2] that requires one to measure the two legs of a right triangle and the device will calculate the hypotenuse. I have not tested this feature, but have confidence that it will work as described.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the continuous measuring mode as well. It is unremarkable in operation and works fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bosch has a reputation (in my alleged mind) of creating quality products. It's certainly possible that this device and others from the same company would be made in China, but in such cases, oversight results in expected quality. A not-necessarily-marketing blah-blah review can be found at [The Gadgeteer][3] from which the image below has been presented.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![bosch dlr165][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The photo shows &quot;Assembled in Malaysia&quot; invalidating my China reference, but that was 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/55710/bosch-dlr165.html?page=7&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/55710/bosch-dlr165.html?page=10&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://the-gadgeteer.com/2010/04/11/bosch-dlr165-digital-laser-rangefinder-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKV3n.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33255" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="ef7c6b4f-2c11-41f3-8b77-ca4f0fceeeb6" CreationDate="2018-11-04T03:00:45.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33261" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10008" RevisionGUID="184e487d-b649-431b-8c20-783ac3fb2cc2" CreationDate="2018-11-04T10:25:20.487" UserId="6089" Comment="edited body" Text="I have a Bosch DLR165, which appears to have been produced around 2010. It's possible that I purchased mine that far back, or from eBay in later years. I found only one in today's eBay listing, but based on my experience with this one, I'd purchase a newer Bosch product with confidence.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [manual][1] lists the maximum range at 50 meters, within your requirements. The manual also states a minimum of 50 millimeters. This I checked moments ago. I cannot attest to the precision/accuracy, but can confirm that when placed on a metric ruler, it reads 50 mm. I used an uncalibrated eyeball to place the tool and the opposite surface, but suggest that it would be within the specified 1.5 mm capability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When moved one mm closer, an error message appeared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a different type of test, I measured the span of my door frame. The top and bottom measured 2 mm narrower than the center of the vertical section of the door. When I placed the aforementioned ruler under the tool (1.9 mm thick), the measurement was reduced by 2 mm, indicating that my door frame is warped and that the tool recognized the distance change. Repeated measurements resulted in consistent results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This specific unit meets the &quot;nice to have&quot; list as well. As noted in the manual, there is a [trigonometric mode][2] that requires one to measure the two legs of a right triangle and the device will calculate the hypotenuse. I have not tested this feature, but have confidence that it will work as described.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used the continuous measuring mode as well. It is unremarkable in operation and works fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bosch has a reputation (in my alleged mind) of creating quality products. It's certainly possible that this device and others from the same company would be made in China, but in such cases, oversight results in expected quality. A not-necessarily-marketing blah-blah review can be found at [The Gadgeteer][3] from which the image below has been presented.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![bosch dlr165][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The photo shows &quot;Assembled in Malaysia&quot; invalidating my China reference, but that was 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/55710/bosch-dlr165.html?page=7&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/55710/bosch-dlr165.html?page=10&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://the-gadgeteer.com/2010/04/11/bosch-dlr165-digital-laser-rangefinder-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKV3n.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="bdbbae22-4637-47d9-a5fa-ad5842b2a994" CreationDate="2018-11-04T20:29:58.413" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a ~24-inch computer monitor that is as light as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer monitor just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 resolution or higher&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI/DVI/VGA/USB/display port/etc. are all fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricewise I don't have any hard limit: the main criteria is really the weight." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33267" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="bdbbae22-4637-47d9-a5fa-ad5842b2a994" CreationDate="2018-11-04T20:29:58.413" UserId="40" Text="Ultralight ~24-inch computer monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33268" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="bdbbae22-4637-47d9-a5fa-ad5842b2a994" CreationDate="2018-11-04T20:29:58.413" UserId="40" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="1c3b63a1-f540-4f31-87ef-8748e199b7f3" CreationDate="2018-11-04T22:06:05.163" UserId="40" Comment="added 56 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a ~24-inch computer monitor that is as light as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer monitor just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 resolution or higher&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI/DVI/VGA/USB/display port/etc. are all fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricewise I don't have any hard limit: the main criteria is really the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bestbuy doesn't have any option to filter by weight." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="f5a89bff-8a2f-4a6d-8326-68087c9543b1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T22:09:52.587" UserId="40" Text="So far the lightest monitor I have found is [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434), which weights 5.7 pounds. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs around 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="ea7be580-4118-4f36-b053-83796eb3aebd" CreationDate="2018-11-04T22:17:48.280" UserId="40" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitor I have found is [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434), which weights 2.6 kg (= 5.7 pounds). From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs around 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10012" RevisionGUID="b1cc76f9-a48c-4d88-b239-74d42368f91d" CreationDate="2018-11-05T07:57:46.230" UserId="9993" Text="It is indeed an ambiguous wording, but it definitly means that Athlon / 7th gen APU will only allow SATA mode and others will allow both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So you won't be limited to SATA with your A1000 with a 2600X." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33296" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="b61dabaa-cc2b-4b1a-b197-6995fef8de0b" CreationDate="2018-11-05T17:00:35.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33297" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="da1139b6-34e9-4c91-a817-380332c6c9e0" CreationDate="2018-11-05T18:01:09.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10017" RevisionGUID="5baecdd3-c129-4506-bf68-2d898c374a35" CreationDate="2018-11-05T19:35:55.230" UserId="10109" Text="I'm looking for a power cable bit I cant't find the reference of this cable.   The product is the sb26 Harman Kardon, the boomerspeaker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33303" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10017" RevisionGUID="5baecdd3-c129-4506-bf68-2d898c374a35" CreationDate="2018-11-05T19:35:55.230" UserId="10109" Text="Harman Kardon sb26 power cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33304" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10017" RevisionGUID="5baecdd3-c129-4506-bf68-2d898c374a35" CreationDate="2018-11-05T19:35:55.230" UserId="10109" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33305" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="8e251505-83b0-4cfc-a161-9063515004c3" CreationDate="2018-11-05T22:00:30.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33307" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="3ebecc51-e0a8-456b-8471-5b18e16526ec" CreationDate="2018-11-06T04:02:35.897" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10018" RevisionGUID="f577c1ac-2810-4732-a516-3ba3300dd627" CreationDate="2018-11-06T10:06:38.807" UserId="6062" Text="I'm interested in getting the pressure of the touch on smartphones. As far as I know there are no current available smartphones with built in touch pressure sensors (force touch). The only devices I know are the Huawei Mate S (force touch version) which is no more available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The touch pressure can also be inferred through the contact area. I have also read that some of the devices are just returning 1 using event.getPressure (). This is also true for Galaxy Note 4 (I have this phone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a list of smartphones which provide reasonable values for event.getPressure()?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33309" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10018" RevisionGUID="f577c1ac-2810-4732-a516-3ba3300dd627" CreationDate="2018-11-06T10:06:38.807" UserId="6062" Text="Android smartphone providing reasonable touch pressure measures" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33310" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10018" RevisionGUID="f577c1ac-2810-4732-a516-3ba3300dd627" CreationDate="2018-11-06T10:06:38.807" UserId="6062" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10019" RevisionGUID="e884560b-e380-48b0-aaed-0a934a2d172a" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:47:44.777" UserId="10114" Text="As we know some laptops come with soldered cpus. In most cases same laptop has different variants of it e.g. one comes with i5-7300hq and other with i7-7700hq. Those cpu's are same generation. My questions are:&#xD;&#xA;Do two same generation soldered cpu's come with same contact pad array?&#xD;&#xA;Could one solder off more powerful cpu and solder it on motherboard who had same generation slower cpu? And WOULD IT WORK? e.g. soldering off i7-7700hq of donor board and soldering it in place of i5-7300hq  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10019" RevisionGUID="e884560b-e380-48b0-aaed-0a934a2d172a" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:47:44.777" UserId="10114" Text="Upgrading soldered laptop cpu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10019" RevisionGUID="e884560b-e380-48b0-aaed-0a934a2d172a" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:47:44.777" UserId="10114" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33314" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10020" RevisionGUID="056dc2bb-90fb-4488-b2a2-0364bec67fb5" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:55:22.157" UserId="10113" Text="I want to clean my ASUS 15.6&quot; (16:9) LED backlit FHD (1920x1080) 60Hz Anti-Glare Panel with 45% NTSC display.&#xD;&#xA;can anyone tell me the right way to do this. thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33315" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10020" RevisionGUID="056dc2bb-90fb-4488-b2a2-0364bec67fb5" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:55:22.157" UserId="10113" Text="how to clean LED Anti-Glare Panel display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33316" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10020" RevisionGUID="056dc2bb-90fb-4488-b2a2-0364bec67fb5" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:55:22.157" UserId="10113" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10021" RevisionGUID="4cbc1764-5de3-494f-aa10-440728985d51" CreationDate="2018-11-06T13:58:45.043" UserId="9993" Text="Physically, it works. Soldered CPUs have sockets just like desktop CPUs, i5-7300HQ and i7-7700HQ are both FCBGA 1440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are still few concerns:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Changing CPU may change power dissipation needs, which is a stumbling block on laptops.&#xD;&#xA; - It may also change power consumption as well, same problem.&#xD;&#xA; - Bios may prevent from changing CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first two shouldn't be problems considering that the 7300HQ and the 7700HQ have the same TDP even though the i7 may draw a bit more power and heat up a bit more too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last concern, it depends on your laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33319" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="aeab81e1-9657-4955-b0da-e516755f6374" CreationDate="2018-11-06T20:00:30.377" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10023" RevisionGUID="55d18857-b9e7-4111-8e54-6e28a8b17506" CreationDate="2018-11-06T22:57:29.753" UserId="10095" Text="You could use a commercially available screen cleaning kit like [this one from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM).  You could also potentially use a soft microfiber cloth with water and a tiny amount of dish soap (put the slightly soapy water directly on the cloth and not the screen and make sure the cloth is only damp and not dripping wet).  Make sure you do NOT USE abrasive or astringent cleaners as they can permanently damage your screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33325" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="8199534c-a6f6-4574-a150-d346a8b06559" CreationDate="2018-11-06T23:39:02.630" UserId="10116" Text="Between this 4 CPUs, which one is the best for a lot of image editing/compression/optimization?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel Core i7-2600K 3.40GHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel Xeon E3-1230v2 3.30GHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel Xeon E3-1270v2 3.50GHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel Xeon E3-1225v6 3.30GHz&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking into renting a server that would be constantly performing image editing tasks in the background 24/7. I'm between those 4. Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33326" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="8199534c-a6f6-4574-a150-d346a8b06559" CreationDate="2018-11-06T23:39:02.630" UserId="10116" Text="Best CPU out of these for Image Processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33327" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="8199534c-a6f6-4574-a150-d346a8b06559" CreationDate="2018-11-06T23:39:02.630" UserId="10116" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10025" RevisionGUID="778e8852-20e7-45c7-a064-39bf3117232a" CreationDate="2018-11-07T00:15:44.360" UserId="1873" Text="It's a bit of a bet, but I'd go with E3-1225v6.&#xA;&#xA;Two reasons:&#xA; &#xA; - Image processing is, by it's very nature, memory-bound. Meaning RAM speeds matter **A LOT**. 8MB of cache could, at best, fit a single 2MP 24 BPP image &#xA; - Assuming your software supports it: AVX2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33329" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10026" RevisionGUID="6a7e818b-857b-4ef1-963b-510b1a24b80d" CreationDate="2018-11-07T00:43:56.910" UserId="1873" Text="Soldering BGAs is **hard** even for machines. Reworking a new one in place of an old one manually is harder. Getting one from an old board to a new one is nigh impossible.&#xA;&#xA;BGA stands for ball grid array. While many Intel documents are not public, BGA itself is an industry standard. Those devices come with tiny solder balls attached to them which then get deformed when soldered to the board. And when you put the processor on a new board it might turn out there is not enough solder on some pins.&#xA;&#xA;Also: this requires superb precision. Looking at the [datasheet for the i7-8650U][1] which is also FCBGA has a minimum pitch (distance between two neighbouring balls) stated as 0.914mm. Which means you need to place the processor accurately down to about 0.5mm. With no obvious reference point. If it seems hard that's because it is.&#xA;&#xA;As an anecdote: someone I know, who is the best in our company when it comes to soldering, once soldered a device with similar package. A bit finer pitch, waaaay less balls and these were brand new ICs. Out of three only one worked.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://pl.mouser.com/datasheet/2/612/8th-gen-processor-family-s-platform-datasheet-vol--1287458.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33332" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="858a5f20-6207-4ebd-8462-1f565ac677aa" CreationDate="2018-11-07T01:00:39.637" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10028" RevisionGUID="ca16a941-d821-4f2f-8429-3023ac625661" CreationDate="2018-11-07T01:38:32.860" UserId="10118" Text="I own [this](https://us.hardware.info/product/314726/asus-x555lj/specifications) laptop for 4 years more or less and it wasn't always charming but lately I had to work with Xamarin in Visual Studio and I got to realize that it is really slow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have a 6GB Ram and will probably add a couple more to get 8GB. Will it make a significant difference ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What others upgrades would you advise me to improve it's performance ?&#xD;&#xA;I would very much appreciate if you could specifically say what new parts should i get." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33334" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10028" RevisionGUID="ca16a941-d821-4f2f-8429-3023ac625661" CreationDate="2018-11-07T01:38:32.860" UserId="10118" Text="What improvements can I make in my laptop (Asus X555LJ)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33335" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10028" RevisionGUID="ca16a941-d821-4f2f-8429-3023ac625661" CreationDate="2018-11-07T01:38:32.860" UserId="10118" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10021" RevisionGUID="7b5d2f94-1851-4d8d-874c-9e5af3ad14aa" CreationDate="2018-11-07T09:51:03.857" UserId="9993" Comment="added 121 characters in body" Text="Physically, it works. 7300HQ and 7700HQ are both FCBGA 1440 socket, so they are in theory compatible, but the package is soldered to the PCB and changing it can be really hard due to the precision of the needed solders, as Jan mentionned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are still few concerns:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Changing CPU may change power dissipation needs, which is a stumbling block on laptops.&#xD;&#xA; - It may also change power consumption as well, same problem.&#xD;&#xA; - Bios may prevent from changing CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first two shouldn't be problems considering that the 7300HQ and the 7700HQ have the same TDP even though the i7 may draw a bit more power and heat up a bit more too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last concern, it depends on your laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10029" RevisionGUID="8adc39d2-1370-451c-ba3a-191bd538a30e" CreationDate="2018-11-07T13:13:53.163" UserId="7103" Text="Out of these CPUs (and ignoring considerations other then performance), it's a toss-up between the e3-1225v6 and e3-1270v2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of raw power, **the e3-1270 has about a 10% edge** because of it's hyperthreading and faster clock speed - see https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Xeon-E3-1225-v6-vs-Intel-Xeon-E3-1270-V2/3019vs1192 and&#xD;&#xA;https://ark.intel.com/compare/65727,97476 - they have similar instruction sets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said at this level the external factors come into play - eg memory size, cache, SSD/hdd performance. Depending on the types of manipulation, CPU offload *might* come in to play." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10031" RevisionGUID="a521ed7e-125c-4ebc-a435-5f708764751d" CreationDate="2018-11-07T13:47:30.343" UserId="7103" Text="The biggest performance e increase  would be to replace the hdd with an SSD. Any SATA SSD should work - I like Samsung EV8x0 series (where x is the generation, it won't matter too much which gen).  The size you get will depend on how full your hdd is and budget, but a 250 or 500 gig should suffice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Increasing memory will help significantly, but will slightly reduce the battery life. An SSD will likely help more (because it reduces swap times and greatly decreases file access and write times). Doing both will help more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not much else to upgrade on a laptop in terms of performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33345" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="a87c1e27-8d2a-403c-9130-6007a77076c1" CreationDate="2018-11-07T16:00:31.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33346" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="8f417785-b87b-42ae-8ac5-e75b91db9aad" CreationDate="2018-11-07T17:00:38.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33349" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="387baacf-f416-4a39-86d5-4efa4ae7a7fd" CreationDate="2018-11-07T19:01:05.160" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33350" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10033" RevisionGUID="fa7b672b-b50a-4fc9-bb52-be5271a00dbb" CreationDate="2018-11-07T19:55:03.937" UserId="10123" Text="As davidgo stated, the best upgrade you can do on a notebook for that kind of work is the SSD, it will help a lot when working with large projects, apart from the general responsiveness. It can also help in scenarios where RAM memory is just barely not enough for what you are doing, since paging is much faster on flash memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Updrading to 8GB is also advisable, but i suspect doing that alone will not make a big difference. I would upgrade this alongside with the SSD, since DDR3L memory is quite affordable this days. You can check your memory usage in the Task Manager, unless is near 100% most of the time you are not limited by that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately there is not much more you can do, since the vast majoriry of current notebooks (yours included) have the CPU soldered, the other major upgrade point for your work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33355" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10000" RevisionGUID="5423173d-025c-4368-a4f7-b3799f18d6da" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:32:54.513" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33356" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9995" RevisionGUID="5a0b84a6-eb6d-49d6-9841-ea7e0137d170" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:34:58.220" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33358" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="9986" RevisionGUID="3c1e5a4b-99ae-496b-8f98-7c49f5684c3b" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:36:26.893" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33360" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10019" RevisionGUID="2d1b60a9-1a72-43cf-94bb-c0144d8b0f44" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:41:08.233" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33362" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10028" RevisionGUID="c24a4d74-ef85-487b-b7f1-da0d73f651d3" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:45:45.883" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33364" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10020" RevisionGUID="a0731680-1f7a-457a-95ed-550868adb710" CreationDate="2018-11-07T21:46:50.373" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33365" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="fc06a372-2eea-495b-bb5a-20a1cca1f6f8" CreationDate="2018-11-08T01:00:55.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33372" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="ee0e5dc7-a58f-4f1f-9917-7ddf31579ea2" CreationDate="2018-11-08T03:03:00.740" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10035" RevisionGUID="62363a20-d588-45e4-97b5-74d0189d5ef5" CreationDate="2018-11-08T04:58:28.700" UserId="10126" Text="My motherboard just died on me, and I am wondering if I should just stick to the same kind of motherboard (AM3+). If i do I would be able to reuse the cpu, ram, and psu for a bit longer. Is it even worth it to keep using the CPU and RAM, or should I just upgrade to another kind of motherboard and get a newer CPU? Is AM3+ obsolete at this point? If I should upgrade, what should I upgrade to for the motherboard and CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mainly use the computer for gaming (at medium to high settings) and a bit for light programming work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Current specs are:&#xD;&#xA;CPU:          AMD FX-6300 6 core -&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard:  AsusTek M5A78l-M/USB3 - AM3+ -&#xD;&#xA;GPU:          NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3gb - &#xD;&#xA;OS:           Windows - &#xD;&#xA;RAM:          DDR3 - &#xD;&#xA;SSD:          Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500 GB - &#xD;&#xA;PSU:          EVGA 600W - &#xD;&#xA;OS:           Windows 10 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10035" RevisionGUID="62363a20-d588-45e4-97b5-74d0189d5ef5" CreationDate="2018-11-08T04:58:28.700" UserId="10126" Text="Should I stick to AM3+ or upgrade to something else?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10035" RevisionGUID="62363a20-d588-45e4-97b5-74d0189d5ef5" CreationDate="2018-11-08T04:58:28.700" UserId="10126" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10036" RevisionGUID="0546859f-5f2b-467a-8682-28b1b3a99d3d" CreationDate="2018-11-08T07:51:18.293" UserId="9993" Text="I would go for an AM3+ mobo considering that it's pretty cheap, I've seen your mobo at ~50€ in France. Of course it depends on your country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Changing mobo + CPU + ram is expensive nowadays, if your CPU is still enough for you, keep it a bit more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10037" RevisionGUID="42a4997e-3266-494d-869d-b7686dbd0c8f" CreationDate="2018-11-08T08:46:00.563" UserId="7103" Text="Based in its CPU benchmark score, this CPU gives middle-of-the-road performance, but it is 6 years old.  That said, performance increases over time have slowed a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your system is able to fo everything you need  it to and your usage case is unlikely to change in the next 12 months or more, and the motherboard is less then $100, it's financially reasonable to replace the motherboard and defer a new purchase." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33378" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="cf9c0d52-b02e-4e39-8fe5-3ae47a9225a2" CreationDate="2018-11-08T10:22:55.057" UserId="5207" Text="As there any headphones (open or semi-closed) that can amplify the noise around instead of canceling it? I like to bike with the headphones on, but I need to hear the traffic around. I used earbuds before, but they are easy to lose and not that comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best implementation I'd love to have is where I can smoothly control the configuration between full active noise-cancelling and noise-amplification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They should be also wireless." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33379" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="cf9c0d52-b02e-4e39-8fe5-3ae47a9225a2" CreationDate="2018-11-08T10:22:55.057" UserId="5207" Text="Headphones with noise amplification" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33380" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="cf9c0d52-b02e-4e39-8fe5-3ae47a9225a2" CreationDate="2018-11-08T10:22:55.057" UserId="5207" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10040" RevisionGUID="9711b8a8-ae45-4999-a531-cbde0fa97d05" CreationDate="2018-11-08T13:00:39.743" UserId="10130" Text="We're preparing an exhibition and I'd like to know what are the chances of interference between individual exhibitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive Pro can use up to 16 Base 2.0 stations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive Pro can use Base 1.0 stations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive can't use Base 2.0 stations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive can only use 2 Base 1.0 stations - if it catches a signal from a third one, nuclear meltdown ensues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to know what happens when:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive Pro that is tracked by Base 2.0 stations accidentally detects signal from Base 1.0 station&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vive is that is tracked by Base 1.0 stations in the signal of Base 2.0 station - I know it can's use their signal, but can it cause interference?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any experience?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33386" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10040" RevisionGUID="9711b8a8-ae45-4999-a531-cbde0fa97d05" CreationDate="2018-11-08T13:00:39.743" UserId="10130" Text="Mixing Vive+Vive Pro+Base 1.0+Base 2.0?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33387" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10040" RevisionGUID="9711b8a8-ae45-4999-a531-cbde0fa97d05" CreationDate="2018-11-08T13:00:39.743" UserId="10130" Text="&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33392" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10042" RevisionGUID="674d5926-87a6-4438-94f4-48a00d1708d8" CreationDate="2018-11-08T15:07:22.823" UserId="10132" Text="Can anyone recommend a budget/value 34inch 4k monitor mostly for business but also some light strategy gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, do I need anything else? Like a 4K HDMI cable?&#xD;&#xA;Will it function with a typical business laptop? (probably integrated graphics, can they drive 4k?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone have any experience going up to a 34inch for coding and work? I've read its amazing on blogs, but curious if its worth the price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33393" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10042" RevisionGUID="674d5926-87a6-4438-94f4-48a00d1708d8" CreationDate="2018-11-08T15:07:22.823" UserId="10132" Text="34 Inch Ultrawide for Business - Light Gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33394" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10042" RevisionGUID="674d5926-87a6-4438-94f4-48a00d1708d8" CreationDate="2018-11-08T15:07:22.823" UserId="10132" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33399" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10044" RevisionGUID="bc36c356-1031-4eab-9c30-f15855219deb" CreationDate="2018-11-08T21:34:11.873" UserId="9587" Text="As an owner of Viotek GN34C that has a 1440x3440 resolution I can say that it is really amazing and a huge upgrade from 1080 and from standard 16:9. It is very easy to open two programs or web pages side by side, without running into all sorts of weird layout issues that you get on a 16:9 monitors. Definitely worth it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than Viotek I can suggest you to look at something like Samsung CF791, Samsung C34J791 or Microboard M340CLZ, as they all have WQHD VA panels manufactured by Samsung and might be cheaper depending on your location, but keep in mind that original Samsung monitors use Quantum Dot technology, which other similar monitors don't have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would need a DisplayPort cable to make use of the 100Hz refresh rate, though, or at least HDMI 2.0 to run it at 60Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to be using it with a modern business laptop you shouldn't see any problem with running programs in WQHD, but it would struggle to run modern games with decent FPS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10045" RevisionGUID="b311f98e-bbc2-4c69-aa8c-764d2850dcbe" CreationDate="2018-11-08T21:46:53.433" UserId="6089" Text="In order to hear sounds around you in a proper manner, consider that bone conduction headphones will leave your ears open, while allowing you to enjoy music or other sounds. This type of design also allows your ear's natural direction finding characteristics to function, as very little of the surrounding ear is blocked by bone conduction headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used two different types and the wireless ones are certainly the most convenient. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In some states, it is unlawful to have earbuds or earphones, but bone conduction designs do not block the ear and are not unlawful, although it may be necessary to explain to an uninformed uniformed law enforcement officer of the difference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've owned two models of AfterShokz and can recommend them for quality sound and functionality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a review of a few models and manufacturers here:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.everydayhearing.com/hearing-technology/articles/bone-conduction-headphones/&#xD;&#xA;that may be useful in your decision process." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33407" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="c580962b-93c5-430f-aee4-253610ebcf8f" CreationDate="2018-11-09T03:02:10.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10049" RevisionGUID="926867f4-0965-4974-b4a3-ca264eab0388" CreationDate="2018-11-09T05:21:36.320" UserId="10136" Text="So i'm thinking of purchasing a DELL XPS 15 with a screen resolution of 15.6&quot; 4K Ultra HD (3840 x 2160).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a very nice DELL Ultrasharp 27 inch monitor with a screen resolution of 2560 x 1440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did the research and i believe it's better to use the USB type-c (laptop) to DP (monitor) to connect both instead of the USB type-c (laptop) to HDMI (monitor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this correct? Is DisplayPort 1.2 better then HDMI to connect a laptop to a monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If yes, my monitor comes with a mini DP... Should i use the USB type-c (laptop) to mini DP (monitor) instead of DP 1.2?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, what is the negative points of having to different resolutions connected? I guess i just want to make sure that i'm making the right decision before investing on a expensive laptop. Thanks all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more info, here are the connectivity specs from my DELL Ultrasharp U2715H:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connectivity 2 HDMI(MHL) connector 1 Mini DisplayPort 1 DisplayPort (version 1.2) 1 DisplayPort out (MST) 1 Audio Line out (connect your speakers) 5 USB 3.0 ports - Downstream (4 at the back, 1 with battery charging) 1 USB 3.0 port - Upstream" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33413" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10049" RevisionGUID="926867f4-0965-4974-b4a3-ca264eab0388" CreationDate="2018-11-09T05:21:36.320" UserId="10136" Text="Can I connect a 4k (3840 x 2160) laptop to a 2560 x 1440 monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33414" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10049" RevisionGUID="926867f4-0965-4974-b4a3-ca264eab0388" CreationDate="2018-11-09T05:21:36.320" UserId="10136" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10050" RevisionGUID="6cf349fd-3c44-420a-acc2-c2cadd33db40" CreationDate="2018-11-09T05:34:22.663" UserId="10135" Text="It is true, DP is a little better (e.g., it supports a higher refresh rate); however, regardless of which one you end up going with, the differences between DisplayPort and HDMI are not very major.  Unless you have some technical reasons why one would be preferred over another (e.g. you're running several of these screens, which would overload the CPU, and you need the one with the least CPU usage), either one works just fine, as long as your screen can play the sound which your computer sends. (some lower quality screens have trouble playing HDMI sound)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And for the second part of your question, the negatives to connecting different resolutions are also quite minor.  For example, when you need to move from one window to the other, you'll be able to move your mouse to, e.g. upper right corner to switch to the other screen, but moving your mouse to the lower right corner will not move it over to the other screen (or vice versa).  However, that is quite a minor disadvantage, and for all practical purposes, you should be fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33416" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10051" RevisionGUID="cc8a87d2-3562-48e4-b733-6fa566a288f9" CreationDate="2018-11-09T06:07:51.193" UserId="10135" Text="Just to identify some issues with your setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; *Power supply:*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The whole thing should run 24/7, so a low power profile would be good to not drain the car battery too much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Running it at night requires an IR LED to be on.  Being able to see 20m would require this LED to be insanely bright, hence not very low-power.  If you want to use only street lights, you would be better off with setting up a Raspberry Pi device to take long-exposure photos at set intervals, instead of a video.  Again, the power requirements would be immense; I recommend EV batteries to run this, since they typically have a quite high power-to-weight ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cameras:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cabling should be simple, so best everything on 12 volts and I think the cables to the recorder could get as long as 6-8 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, keep in mind that, the longer the cable, the more the voltage depression.  I ran 3-meter-long cables in my car, and already I had to run them 8-gauge to be able to run my equipment without problem at 40 degrees C.  They'd need to be even thicker to work at 90 degrees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should connect to the wireless network while I am near home and record the data directly onto a home server and transfer all recorded data too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe this directly contradicts your requirement `best would be if it works without sending a signal`.  And again, you'd have a lot of programming to do, to make this work with the Raspberry Pi.  No general-purpose recording software will be developed with such attributes, until the market for it is large enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should survive shocks during car rides, so a spinning disk might be bad, but with 3 images per second(?!) that should be around 10 tera bytes of SSD??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes.  Keep in mind that most SSD's cannot be even stored at 90 degrees without losing their data -- much less working at those temperatures.  And spinning disks use too much electricity.  I should also mention that, typical EV batteries quickly degrade at temperatures higher than 40 degrees Celcius, except there is a high-temperature version of Saft EV batteries I've been able to find, which costs over ten thousand dollars per block.  In other words, the cost to make this setup work adds up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you happen to find a way to decrease your requirements to make this setup more realistic, I will be glad to help out with practical suggestions.  For now, I believe your post is more hypothetical than practical." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10052" RevisionGUID="8bcb947c-1ff8-4cf3-9164-6d4b6f39efeb" CreationDate="2018-11-09T06:18:05.943" UserId="10135" Text="The answer is no.  The thing is, that the more specialized you get, the more expensive hardware gets.  To give you an example, you can buy a 4-inch dye sub printer for roughly $150, a 6-inch for $1350, an 8-inch for $5000.  The less often a piece of machinery is used, the more expensive it gets.  This is why an 8-disk hub is so much more expensive than hooking up 8 separate DVD-R's to a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, if you are only looking for something that can do many DVD's at once, there is a possibility that eventually, something might come out that would do the job.  However, if you also need it to be cheap, then this will not happen unless the market changes to where many people will all the sudden need 8-disc hubs, and they can be mass produced.  Which I believe you can agree to, will not happen in this day and age." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10054" RevisionGUID="edee0524-ff5d-4ae1-aed1-34dd6768a5c3" CreationDate="2018-11-09T12:37:16.213" UserId="10135" Text="The name of the cable required for the boomerspeaker is a Figure-8 cable.  However, in the future, when posting such a question, it would help if you could include the image of what it is that you need.  It took a bit of searching to find a picture with the image of the power nest.  Finally found it on NewEgg. [![https://ssl-images.newegg.com/productimage/86-111-001-13.jpg][1]][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jm4mS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33423" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10051" RevisionGUID="1e9b7a55-be90-4b74-b2c0-3b1efc4298c6" CreationDate="2018-11-09T12:42:10.593" UserId="10135" Comment="added 233 characters in body" Text="Just to identify some issues with your setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; *Power supply:*&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The whole thing should run 24/7, so a low power profile would be good to not drain the car battery too much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Running it at night requires an IR LED to be on.  Being able to see 20m would require this LED to be insanely bright, hence not very low-power.  If you want to use only street lights, you would be better off with setting up a Raspberry Pi device to take long-exposure photos at set intervals, instead of a video.  Then, long exposure means you can forget the clarity requirement.  Again, the power requirements would be immense; I recommend EV batteries to run this, since they typically have a quite high power-to-weight ratio.  Maybe two or three, if you're going to be gone a week at a time: depends how you set up the rest of the peripherals.  So, also forget about being low-cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cameras:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cabling should be simple, so best everything on 12 volts and I think the cables to the recorder could get as long as 6-8 meters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, keep in mind that, the longer the cable, the more the voltage depression.  I ran 3-meter-long cables in my car, and already I had to run them 8-gauge to be able to run my equipment without problem at 40 degrees C.  They'd need to be even thicker to work at 90 degrees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should connect to the wireless network while I am near home and record the data directly onto a home server and transfer all recorded data too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe this directly contradicts your requirement `best would be if it works without sending a signal`.  And again, you'd have a lot of programming to do, to make this work with the Raspberry Pi.  No general-purpose recording software will be developed with such attributes, until the market for it is large enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Storage:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Should survive shocks during car rides, so a spinning disk might be bad, but with 3 images per second(?!) that should be around 10 tera bytes of SSD??&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes.  Keep in mind that most SSD's cannot be even stored at 90 degrees without losing their data -- much less working at those temperatures.  And spinning disks use too much electricity.  I should also mention that, typical EV batteries quickly degrade at temperatures higher than 40 degrees Celcius, except there is a high-temperature version of Saft EV batteries I've been able to find, which costs over ten thousand dollars per block.  In other words, the cost to make this setup work adds up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you happen to find a way to decrease your requirements to make this setup more realistic, I will be glad to help out with actual product recommendations.  For now, I believe your post is more hypothetical than practical." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="4053131e-244b-4404-900d-ee9e17a4e5b7" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:14:03.367" UserId="10135" Text="I need a printer that I can keep in my car in the hot summer months, for making copies of important documents such as contracts, that I frequently have to turn in.  I already have a portable scanner which can scan to an SD card, and a SD-to-USB adapter.  So what I would need is probably a printer that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Does not use InkJet technology, since ink dries up from the heat in the car.  Technologies I've found that can work: Laser, Dye Sublimation, Thermal Wax Transfer, Direct Thermal, maybe some others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can print at least on at least 4&quot;-wide paper (at least 6&quot; is preferred)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can run off of a battery.  Or at least, have a DC input, so I can connect an external battery to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [preferred] Can print off of a USB stick or a memory card, so I don't have to get another scanner.  In general, might be worth mentioning, printing over which of the following it supports: PC, Mac, USB, SD, WiFi, BlueTooth, PictBridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, things that I don't care about, but might be important for others in this situation, so it might be worth mentioning if you know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can it print in color?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* What paper / ink does it use, to help gauging the cost per page?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Maximum length of an image it can print.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number of seconds it takes to print a single maximum-size picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* How frequently does it jam / have other technical issues?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33427" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="4053131e-244b-4404-900d-ee9e17a4e5b7" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:14:03.367" UserId="10135" Text="What printer can print large images from a car?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33428" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="4053131e-244b-4404-900d-ee9e17a4e5b7" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:14:03.367" UserId="10135" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33429" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="77ee7412-f52e-490a-bea1-7df389f1c9be" CreationDate="2018-11-09T15:01:45.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="b5f40c87-5796-4def-ab4e-e0b7fe897ae4" CreationDate="2018-11-09T17:25:23.350" UserId="10135" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I need a printer that I can keep in my car in the hot summer months, for making copies of important documents such as contracts, that I frequently have to turn in.  I already have a portable scanner which can scan to an SD card, and a SD-to-USB adapter.  So what I would need is probably a printer that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Does not use InkJet technology, since ink dries up from the heat in the car.  Technologies I've found that can work: Laser, Dye Sublimation, Thermal Wax Transfer, Direct Thermal, maybe some others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can print at least on at least 4&quot;-wide paper (at least 5&quot; is strongly preferred, this is the main reason I'm asking this)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can run off of a battery.  Or at least, have a DC input, so I can connect an external battery to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [preferred] Can print off of a USB stick or a memory card, so I don't have to get another scanner.  In general, might be worth mentioning, printing over which of the following it supports: PC, Mac, USB, SD, WiFi, BlueTooth, PictBridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, things that I don't care about, but might be important for others in this situation, so it might be worth mentioning if you know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can it print in color?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* What paper / ink does it use, to help gauging the cost per page?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Maximum length of an image it can print.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number of seconds it takes to print a single maximum-size picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* How frequently does it jam / have other technical issues?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33434" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9862" RevisionGUID="ea861886-8a4d-465f-8e95-e364f8744c0d" CreationDate="2018-11-09T18:00:55.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="97e0ae53-e9c3-40ce-9ac3-bf8f4c29e56c" CreationDate="2018-11-09T23:46:34.157" UserId="6284" Comment="edit" Text="I would like something like this keyboard except where the quality is assured to work for a long while:&lt;br&gt;http://a.co/d/i1uzVA1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be slim (like Surface/Mac desktop keyboard)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be backlit and allow for white color light&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be wireless (i.e. contains USB dongle)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Manufacturing reliability must be verified and must have reputation for quality products&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be full desktop keyboard (i.e. contains numpad section)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard must be for English-native speakers/typists&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Space bar must be big enough to stretch from the 'C' key to the '.' key&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferred but not required:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Color variation for keyboard itself&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Individual keys spaced out symmetrically and big enough&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard is **not** mechanical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Irrelevant**:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Price&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Battery-type (e.g. AA, AAA)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Warranty&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Product dimensions&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Function keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Amazon and Newegg. I haven't had much luck with the type of keyboard I'm looking for. The only keyboard that has come close is the one I've linked to above. I was going to invest in it until I read the reviews for it. It appears that the quality control for it are sub-standard and so I would like an identical keyboard but from someone who I can trust to make a decent keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33438" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="7ea79c8a-2385-46c5-89e9-d8ae2a31942b" CreationDate="2018-11-10T00:02:55.907" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33439" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10057" RevisionGUID="8f4f36b9-7717-42c6-b6d8-701854010d6a" CreationDate="2018-11-10T05:10:00.383" UserId="10135" Text="I don't have live experience with Vive.  However, the [Vive FAQ][1] says, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; **Important:** Use only the same version of base stations together. Different base station versions are not interchangeable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, if Vive Pro accidentally detects the signal from a Base 1.0 station, it will cause significant interference.  The reason for that is, that the IR method of communication prevents Vive from locking on to a signal (which would be possible for it to do if the communication were entirely in BlueTooth).  Therefore, when another signal of the same frequency comes in, it will cause a disruption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, it's worthwhile to keep in mind that since IR is a more-or-less unidirectional signal, you still should be able to make it work if you are very careful to make sure that the signals from the two base versions do not intersect.  Theoretically anyways.  In practice, as I said, I never used Vive before, so it might be harder than it seems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me know if this doesn't answer your question fully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;p.s., in the future, such questions belong on [SuperUser][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.vive.com/us/support/vive/category_howto/which-vive-hardware-are-compatible-with-base-stations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="35f7ee94-c964-4a99-abed-910f0468df0e" CreationDate="2018-11-10T15:22:43.700" UserId="1921" Comment="added 100 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.  each one is approx 22.1 by 80.26 =2.75 square inches if you want a dozen that is 33 square inches.&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;5.  You can't place them close to the PCIe slots due to potential pcie card over hang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&amp;ai=DChcSEwiMq7y8hLbeAhWFJmkKHSq4D_4YABAZGgJpcQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3t6MTcwHm1WdEACCQOhozV3m3Kgg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-47e8hLbeAhVrw4MKHTKOA2E4ZBDYKQiIAw&amp;adurl=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-00A1-00081&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33441" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="0420ede3-8241-4c09-9240-78cb330b213b" CreationDate="2018-11-10T15:45:45.910" UserId="1921" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.  each one is approx 22.1 by 80.26 =2.75 square inches if you want a dozen that is 33 square inches.&#xD;&#xA;[![24 M.2 ssd][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The ATX size clearly doesn't allow for a CPU, and squeezing RAM on there would be tricky at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EATX probably has enough room for a CPU and maybe RAM, but nothing else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only the SSI MEB would have enough room and I don't think those are very common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;5.  You can't place them close to the PCIe slots due to potential pcie card over hang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&amp;ai=DChcSEwiMq7y8hLbeAhWFJmkKHSq4D_4YABAZGgJpcQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3t6MTcwHm1WdEACCQOhozV3m3Kgg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-47e8hLbeAhVrw4MKHTKOA2E4ZBDYKQiIAw&amp;adurl=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-00A1-00081&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4ntD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33442" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="9b291fc8-bf22-4a1b-be25-b1e7045d310a" CreationDate="2018-11-10T16:16:50.090" UserId="1921" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.  each one is approx 22.1 by 80.26 =2.75 square inches if you want a dozen that is 33 square inches.&#xD;&#xA;[![!\[24 M.2 ssd][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The ATX size clearly doesn't allow for a CPU, and squeezing RAM on there would be tricky at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EATX probably has enough room for a CPU and maybe RAM, but nothing else.  Since the northbridge chipset requires active cooling there is no room for it under the M.2's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only the SSI MEB would have enough room and I don't think those are very common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;5.  You can't place them close to the PCIe slots due to potential pcie card over hang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&amp;ai=DChcSEwiMq7y8hLbeAhWFJmkKHSq4D_4YABAZGgJpcQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3t6MTcwHm1WdEACCQOhozV3m3Kgg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-47e8hLbeAhVrw4MKHTKOA2E4ZBDYKQiIAw&amp;adurl=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-00A1-00081&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vx5u.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33443" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9998" RevisionGUID="da526b69-5eae-412f-8c5d-9bb97e86de38" CreationDate="2018-11-10T16:22:39.823" UserId="1921" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="1.  The M.2 slot requires and x4 pcie equivalent to have enough bandwidth to function at the expect speed.&#xD;&#xA;2.  The chipset has a limit to how many pcie lanes are physically available.&#xD;&#xA;3.  Some of the lanes are dedicated to other devices.&#xD;&#xA;4.  Physically space requirements as most M.2 lay flat down against the motherboard.  each one is approx 22.1 by 80.26 =2.75 square inches if you want a dozen that is 33 square inches.&#xD;&#xA;[![!\[24 M.2 ssd][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;The ATX size clearly doesn't allow for a CPU, and squeezing RAM on there would be tricky at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EATX probably has enough room for a CPU and maybe RAM, but nothing else.  Since the northbridge chipset requires active cooling there is no room for it under the M.2's.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSI MEB would have enough room and I don't think those are very common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WTX  would have enough room, but I don't know how common they are.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        So screws may secure them into place.&#xD;&#xA;5.  You can't place them close to the PCIe slots due to potential pcie card over hang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cards like this allow 2 in 1 pcie slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Silverstone SST-ECM22 Dual M.2 to PCI-E X4 NVMe SSD/SATA 6G Adapter&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&amp;ai=DChcSEwiMq7y8hLbeAhWFJmkKHSq4D_4YABAZGgJpcQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3t6MTcwHm1WdEACCQOhozV3m3Kgg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-47e8hLbeAhVrw4MKHTKOA2E4ZBDYKQiIAw&amp;adurl=&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-00A1-00081&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vx5u.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33448" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="ecf6a375-34fc-4247-a886-b314c35ec44f" CreationDate="2018-11-10T20:26:37.443" UserId="10135" Comment="deleted 41 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need a printer that I can keep in my car in the hot summer months, for making copies of important documents such as contracts, that I frequently have to turn in.  I already have a portable scanner which can scan to an SD card, and a SD-to-USB adapter.  So what I would need is probably a printer that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Does not use InkJet technology, since ink dries up from the heat in the car.  Technologies I've found that can work: Laser, Dye Sublimation, Thermal Wax Transfer, Direct Thermal, maybe some others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can print at least on at least 4&quot;-wide paper (at least 5&quot; is strongly preferred)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can run off of a battery.  Or at least, have a DC input, so I can connect an external battery to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [preferred] Can print off of a USB stick or a memory card, so I don't have to get another scanner.  In general, might be worth mentioning, printing over which of the following it supports: PC, Mac, USB, SD, WiFi, BlueTooth, PictBridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, things that I don't care about, but might be important for others in this situation, so it might be worth mentioning if you know:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Can it print in color?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* What paper / ink does it use, to help gauging the cost per page?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Maximum length of an image it can print.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number of seconds it takes to print a single maximum-size picture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* How frequently does it jam / have other technical issues?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33449" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="ecf6a375-34fc-4247-a886-b314c35ec44f" CreationDate="2018-11-10T20:26:37.443" UserId="10135" Comment="deleted 41 characters in body; edited title" Text="What printer can print large(-ish) images from a car?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10060" RevisionGUID="df42f97a-58c9-4f99-af93-063fdcfd30b3" CreationDate="2018-11-11T01:56:21.157" UserId="10135" Text="If I understood you correctly, a &quot;cell phone USB charger&quot; is a power bank.  If that's right, then as far as I am aware, you have two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Buy a 20Ah charger that has multiple batteries inside, wired in parallel.  When you need 10Ah, take out half the batteries; when you need 20Ah, put them back in.  Example: [4 batteries inside][1]. [3 batteries inside][2]. [8 batteries inside (but you must take out 4 at a time).][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Buy two 10Ah power banks, and a [two-to-one USB cable][4], which would allow to use both of them at the same time if that's what you need.  You can put them both in a single case, to make sure they stay as a unit.  Using both simultaneously is particularly useful if your device uses a lot of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/d/Portable-Power-Banks/Portable-Charger-RAVPower-Battery-26800mAh/B012NIQG5E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541900428&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=power%20bank&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/iKits-20400mAh-Portable-Aluminum-Panasonic/dp/B01EWURK6U/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541900428&amp;sr=1-3-spons&amp;keywords=power%20bank&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/24000mAh-Portable-Charger-Capacity-Compatible/dp/B07BVSVCQF/ref=sr_1_12?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541900428&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=power%20bank&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541901100&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=2%20usb%20to%201" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33458" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="4fa82779-1eb4-45ce-99b7-054b516373a5" CreationDate="2018-11-11T04:03:25.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="0a5ac012-9b7e-4c8a-bff4-3dcf4b819385" CreationDate="2018-11-11T10:01:40.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33461" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="e7e6895a-663a-4698-9954-db090119db40" CreationDate="2018-11-11T11:01:05.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33462" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10061" RevisionGUID="1d82fd42-a391-4b1d-9131-22abd86c638d" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:40:56.977" UserId="10144" Text="Time to upgrade my desktop PC, which - unlike most people - I do very rarely, which also means that I'm currently quite out of practice with buying new HW.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My computing and graphics needs are not great, so the only reason to upgrade is software's ever growing need for memory. My current PC is now 10ish years old and it reached its 16GiB RAM limit years ago. The OS I run is Fedora 28 (usually upgraded by 2 versions at once), I have 2 WD's 4TiB SATA disks in it (WDC WD4003FZEX-00Z4SA0 and WDC WD40EZRX-00SPEB0), and it's all packed in a very traditional midi tower case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to not buy a completely new computer, but only replace the components. Therefore, my major aim is a new motherboard with some serious RAM support, a decent CPU (I'd consider two if not too expensive), and anything I'm forced to replace/add to the mix.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS](https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/Z10PED16_WS/specifications/), which should be possible to upgrade with more memory for many years. Right now, I'd likely go for 2x[Crucial CT64G4LFQ4266 DDR4 64 GB LRDIMM](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01NBMUPQ6/) and buy more when this becomes too little. I don't insist on 1 TiB RAM support on the motherboard, but 256 GiB or more would be very welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My first question is: would the above work OK together, on Fedora? Further, are there better suggestions (for example, cheaper ones that don't perform significantly worse), while maintaining upgradeablity of RAM, to avoid the hassle of motherboard shopping in long term.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second question is obvious: whatever the motherboard suggestion is, which CPU would you suggest with it? I'm looking for a nice balance of power and price since, like I said above, I don't need high-end computing power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once the above is decided on, I also need to decide about graphics. I have no interest in high end gaming/rendering GPU, but I do need decent support for 2 screens (Dell U2311H; each supports VGA, DVI-D, and DisplayPort). My current motherboard (HP 3647h) has this built in, but it seems that it's now considered wiser to have a separate graphics card, and most people seem to think that AMD works best with Linux. My third question: what would be a good recommendation in this department?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Last, but not least, do I need to look for a new power supply, or my 10 years old one _should_ work? If I need a new one, what would the recommendations be? My current one shows &quot;not specified&quot; for all fields provided by `dmidecode --type 39`, including the name and the manufacturer, and it's kinda hard to reach it at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus points: it'd be nice if all of the recommended stuff was available on AmazonUK, since I feel quite confident with their return policy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33463" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10061" RevisionGUID="1d82fd42-a391-4b1d-9131-22abd86c638d" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:40:56.977" UserId="10144" Text="Hardware upgrade after a long time: which MB, RAM, CPU, and GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33464" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10061" RevisionGUID="1d82fd42-a391-4b1d-9131-22abd86c638d" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:40:56.977" UserId="10144" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33471" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="4a0c5699-7414-482e-83ea-3d41ca5d0547" CreationDate="2018-11-11T19:49:12.213" UserId="2086" Comment="80" />
  <row Id="33474" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="58af1638-e7e3-407b-858c-fca490946948" CreationDate="2018-11-11T20:03:11.017" UserId="2086" Comment="added 258 characters in body" Text="My friend recommended me this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/tokobelakang/xiaomi-mi-ultra-short-laser-projector-5000-lumen-ansi-readystock-putih?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk9iJ-vlMX_s4ZE_3u53Ca6Ozndew5HU5qpxiYhhHEJa470xELa8lvcaAky3EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything there is almost perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5k lumen. Very short throw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is my wall is around 5m. Xiaomi laser can do 3.75 m (150 inch).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The throw doesn't have to be that short though I like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Distance 2m is fine. So about .4 throw ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full HD. Higher better, but not if it's too much more expensive. Good contrast. If you have other criteria of what's good, let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$5k max budget. But if I can get a very good one for $1500-$2000 I would need a good reason to shell out another $3k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about projector central. Been looking for it. Still can't decide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh ya, if possible, something popular enough that I can find it in tokopedia.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33475" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="ad29b047-5efa-4bb3-909d-c7a311337e14" CreationDate="2018-11-11T20:37:01.753" UserId="2086" Comment="added 173 characters in body; edited title" Text="My friend recommended me this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/tokobelakang/xiaomi-mi-ultra-short-laser-projector-5000-lumen-ansi-readystock-putih?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk9iJ-vlMX_s4ZE_3u53Ca6Ozndew5HU5qpxiYhhHEJa470xELa8lvcaAky3EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything there is almost perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5k lumen. Very short throw. I want distance to the wall to be at most 2 m. The smaller the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is my wall is around 5m. Xiaomi laser can do 3.75 m (150 inch).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The throw doesn't have to be that short though I like it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only concern is screen size. Can I push this xiaomi laser to make a 5m diagonal screen instead?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Distance 2m is fine. So about .4 throw ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Full HD. Higher better, but not if it's too much more expensive. Good contrast. If you have other criteria of what's good, let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$5k max budget. But if I can get a very good one for $1500-$2000 I would need a good reason to shell out another $3k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know about projector central. Been looking for it. Still can't decide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh ya, if possible, something popular enough that I can find it in tokopedia.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33476" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="ad29b047-5efa-4bb3-909d-c7a311337e14" CreationDate="2018-11-11T20:37:01.753" UserId="2086" Comment="added 173 characters in body; edited title" Text="all I need a projector that is like Xiaomi Laser but with Bigger Screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10063" RevisionGUID="4dbd55a9-a5ae-4575-8a15-3abb1b5798c5" CreationDate="2018-11-11T21:01:11.417" UserId="10149" Text="I have an HP Omen X laptop 17.3&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Link: https://www.amazon.com/HP-i7-7820HK-Processor-Solid-State-17-ap020nr/dp/B075XHLDHC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541969775&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=omen+x+laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;E&quot; key came off as I was foolishly trying to remove to clean a spec of food underneath. In doing so, the plastic component which connects the key to the laptop broke and I need a replacement. Specifically, the perimeter of the hole which allows the plastic to &quot;hook&quot; onto the laptop has broke. Customer support only offers to replace the whole keyboard which seems quite excessive to me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where might one find a spare plastic &quot;foot&quot; for a particular laptop's keyboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFQDK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33478" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10063" RevisionGUID="4dbd55a9-a5ae-4575-8a15-3abb1b5798c5" CreationDate="2018-11-11T21:01:11.417" UserId="10149" Text="Where to find a particular plastic component under the key of laptop keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33479" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10063" RevisionGUID="4dbd55a9-a5ae-4575-8a15-3abb1b5798c5" CreationDate="2018-11-11T21:01:11.417" UserId="10149" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33480" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="eaf84273-24e9-4229-89c7-fead72c8349a" CreationDate="2018-11-12T00:01:45.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10064" RevisionGUID="358340e9-8c9c-404b-8b2b-b777077723cf" CreationDate="2018-11-12T00:32:39.473" UserId="6089" Text="I don't know if this is the same company from which I've purchased key caps in the past, but a quick search with the terms &quot;replacement key cap omen 17 laptop&quot; resulted in a number of links. One of the more promising links: [Quickfix Laptop Keys][1] provides a number of Omen model identifiers. It appears that you would get three pieces including the plastic hinge and the cup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.quikfixlaptopkeys.com/?page_id=16407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33482" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="c13d36a7-105a-47b6-9c37-20628f19d11c" CreationDate="2018-11-12T01:01:15.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33483" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9655" RevisionGUID="c36d1732-9855-444d-8aa6-35e5a053aa70" CreationDate="2018-11-12T07:20:30.140" UserId="1410" Comment="edited title" Text="Raspbery Pi case with Real Time Clock and battery power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33484" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="d841d7dc-4381-47da-b55a-3ca931985e13" CreationDate="2018-11-12T09:02:50.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10065" RevisionGUID="6029da2e-cfe4-4b32-8687-31f441731a1d" CreationDate="2018-11-12T10:26:39.763" UserId="2203" Text="#Reliance JioPhone 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might still be early days, but the Reliance JioPhone 2 feature phone from India might soon become a viable option for the smartphone haters among us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a matter of fact, [Reliance is opening up shop in Estonia](https://www.gadgetsnow.com/tech-news/reliance-jio-eyes-europe-now-may-set-up-company-in-estonia/articleshow/64272243.cms), taking out a [European e-residency](https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/company/corporate-trends/mukesh-ambani-sets-up-estonian-jv-for-e-governance-takes-up-e-residency/articleshow/66497754.cms). Provided, the appropriate LTE bands are supported, such a European JioPhone 2 might be perfectly usable in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reliance Jio is expected to become the 10th largest phone brand in the world](https://www.gsmarena.com/analysts_jio_to_become_10th_largest_phone_brand_in_the_world-news-33847.php).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the operating system, [KaiOS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KaiOS), be aware that [Google invested $22M in this](https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/07/09/why-did-google-invest-22-million-in-a-dumb-phone-o.aspx) feature phone operating system. Here is explained [why](https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/07/09/why-did-google-invest-22-million-in-a-dumb-phone-o.aspx).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Reliance JioPhone 2][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOSRQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10065" RevisionGUID="141d3f6c-2f82-479a-9078-0f3a55f10aa7" CreationDate="2018-11-12T10:42:28.730" UserId="2203" Comment="added 268 characters in body" Text="#Reliance JioPhone 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might still be early days, but the Reliance JioPhone 2 feature phone from India might soon become a viable option for the smartphone haters among us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a matter of fact, [Reliance is opening up shop in Estonia](https://www.gadgetsnow.com/tech-news/reliance-jio-eyes-europe-now-may-set-up-company-in-estonia/articleshow/64272243.cms), taking out a [European e-residency](https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/company/corporate-trends/mukesh-ambani-sets-up-estonian-jv-for-e-governance-takes-up-e-residency/articleshow/66497754.cms). Provided the appropriate LTE bands are supported, such a European JioPhone 2 might be perfectly usable in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reliance Jio is expected to become the 10th largest phone brand in the world](https://www.gsmarena.com/analysts_jio_to_become_10th_largest_phone_brand_in_the_world-news-33847.php).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the operating system, [KaiOS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KaiOS), runs  the Linux kernel and happens to be a far descendent of Firefox OS. KaiOS brings support for 4G LTE E, GPS and Wi-Fi with HTML5-based apps and longer battery life to non-touch devices with optimised user interface, less memory and energy consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, be aware that [Google invested $22M in this](https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/07/09/why-did-google-invest-22-million-in-a-dumb-phone-o.aspx) feature phone operating system. By investing in KaiOS, Google ensures that core apps like Search, Maps, YouTube, and Assistant reach feature phone users. Google likely hopes that those users will grow dependent on the services, and that these users will eventually upgrade to Android smartphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Reliance JioPhone 2][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOSRQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="ecb84f55-d167-47fd-80ad-7fb4fd5ef203" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:34:28.853" UserId="10135" Text="[Wireless AD now has a 60GHz frequency band][1].  Because of its immense bandwidth, I'd like to measure, how much ElectroMagnetic Radiation I am exposed to when I am in its vicinity.  However, the [website dedicated to EMR measurement devices][2] does not have anything that can measure over 18GHz.  After searching around on the internet, even the [most sophisticated, computer-linked spectrum analyzer][3] only has capabilities up to 20GHz.  Ironically, their company has [an antenna][4] which can amplify signal up to 35GHz, in order to help EMR measurement devices determine, where the signal is coming from.  Still nowhere close to the 60GHz though.  So few similar questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there any spectrum analyzer that can measure frequencies higher than 20GHz?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there anything that can measure at least up to 35GHz, making full use of [their antenna][4]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there anything that can measure Wireless AD signal strength?  I read abstracts of articles where its levels were measured, but I don't have access to the articles themselves, to see *how* these levels were measured.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.flashrouters.com/blog/2012/11/29/the-difference-between-wireless-n-wireless-ac/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lessemf.com/rf.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/spectrum-analyzer/real-time/highend-real-time-spectrum-analyser&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/antennen-sensoren/logper-antennas/log-per-antenna-up-to-35ghz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="ecb84f55-d167-47fd-80ad-7fb4fd5ef203" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:34:28.853" UserId="10135" Text="What spectrum analyzer can detect Wireless AD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="ecb84f55-d167-47fd-80ad-7fb4fd5ef203" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:34:28.853" UserId="10135" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10065" RevisionGUID="2979a436-e951-4d89-989e-3f71e412f82a" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:53:33.540" UserId="2203" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="#Reliance JioPhone 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might still be early days, but the Reliance JioPhone 2 feature phone from India might soon become a viable option for the smartphone haters among us.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a matter of fact, [Reliance is opening up shop in Estonia](https://www.gadgetsnow.com/tech-news/reliance-jio-eyes-europe-now-may-set-up-company-in-estonia/articleshow/64272243.cms), taking out a [European e-residency](https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/company/corporate-trends/mukesh-ambani-sets-up-estonian-jv-for-e-governance-takes-up-e-residency/articleshow/66497754.cms). Provided the appropriate LTE bands are supported, such a European JioPhone 2 might be perfectly usable in the US.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Reliance Jio is expected to become the 10th largest phone brand in the world](https://www.gsmarena.com/analysts_jio_to_become_10th_largest_phone_brand_in_the_world-news-33847.php).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the operating system, the closed-source [KaiOS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KaiOS), runs  the Linux kernel and happens to be a far descendent of Firefox OS. KaiOS brings support for 4G LTE E, GPS and Wi-Fi with HTML5-based apps and longer battery life to non-touch devices with optimised user interface, less memory and energy consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, be aware that [Google invested $22M in this](https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/07/09/why-did-google-invest-22-million-in-a-dumb-phone-o.aspx) feature phone operating system. By investing in KaiOS, Google ensures that core apps like Search, Maps, YouTube, and Assistant reach feature phone users. Google likely hopes that those users will grow dependent on the services, and that these users will eventually upgrade to Android smartphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Reliance JioPhone 2][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOSRQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="8cb92461-7848-44b0-85f5-c94e76cf5c8d" CreationDate="2018-11-12T15:08:52.997" UserId="10135" Comment="deleted 23 characters in body" Text="[Wireless AD now has a 60GHz frequency band][1].  Because of its immense bandwidth, I'd like to measure, how much ElectroMagnetic Radiation I am exposed to when I am in its vicinity.  However, the [EMR safety superstore][2] does not have anything that can measure over 18GHz.  After searching around on the internet, even the [most sophisticated, computer-linked spectrum analyzer][3] only has capabilities up to 20GHz.  Ironically, their company has [an antenna][4] which can amplify signal up to 35GHz, in order to help EMR measurement devices determine, where the signal is coming from.  Still nowhere close to the 60GHz though.  So few similar questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there any spectrum analyzer that can measure frequencies higher than 20GHz?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there anything that can measure at least up to 35GHz, making full use of [their antenna][4]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is there anything that can measure Wireless AD signal strength?  I read abstracts of articles where its levels were measured, but I don't have access to the articles themselves, to see *how* these levels were measured.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.flashrouters.com/blog/2012/11/29/the-difference-between-wireless-n-wireless-ac/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lessemf.com/rf.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/spectrum-analyzer/real-time/highend-real-time-spectrum-analyser&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/antennen-sensoren/logper-antennas/log-per-antenna-up-to-35ghz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33496" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="09e3f11b-d4be-4968-b870-c04c1812b07e" CreationDate="2018-11-12T18:02:25.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33501" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="e331fce6-b806-4300-81bf-ef1e14cce948" CreationDate="2018-11-12T20:02:05.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="9ad71356-3665-46dd-aa32-1af0126bc865" CreationDate="2018-11-12T21:18:10.203" UserId="10135" Text="According to [Amazon.com][1], this projector you listed will do the job.  What Amazon's description says is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;50 cm distance = 3.75m projection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, 67 cm distance = 5m projection.  Since you are okay with placing the projector up to 2m away from the wall, this will work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What other criteria are you looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Projector-Display-Viewing-Theater/dp/B079FW4C7Q" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="49301fe6-2023-4f63-bbe8-73aeec1527e5" CreationDate="2018-11-12T21:23:23.120" UserId="10135" Comment="added 625 characters in body" Text="According to [Amazon.com][1], this projector you listed will do the job.  What Amazon's description says is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;50 cm distance = 3.75m projection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, 67 cm distance = 5m projection.  Since you are okay with placing the projector up to 2m away from the wall, this will work for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What other criteria are you looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Projector-Display-Viewing-Theater/dp/B079FW4C7Q" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33505" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="e5759c75-73bf-433e-90ee-08da30e78b79" CreationDate="2018-11-12T21:36:06.210" UserId="10135" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10135,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alex&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33506" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="901f966a-136b-495f-b872-b7a0361b358c" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:02:00.340" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33507" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="928d30fd-ea2f-40ba-afba-6c3c8fbc8f9f" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:21:38.623" UserId="10135" Comment="added 896 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio and screen size are directly proportional.  For example, your projector has a throw ratio of 0.13, and a screen size of 150&quot;; if you put a different lens on it, for example one that has a throw ratio of 0.13 * 5/3 = 0.20, then this would increase the image size 150&quot; * 5/3 = 250&quot;.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by increasing the lens size.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33508" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="330cb51a-d30d-4beb-9cb7-da888845b9e6" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:21:43.683" UserId="10135" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10135,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alex&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="8bfcf374-a828-4d36-bf68-7c307784c236" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:53:14.890" UserId="10135" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio and screen size are directly proportional.  For example, your projector has a throw ratio of 0.13, and a screen size of 150&quot;; if you put a different lens on it, for example one that has a throw ratio of 0.13 * 5/3 = 0.20, then this would increase the image size 150&quot; * 5/3 = 250&quot;.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by increasing the lens size.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10071" RevisionGUID="f2f58e6b-fe37-4dee-9c06-b2ade4b3d1df" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:56:20.043" UserId="10155" Text="I am looking for an ultrabook or a lightweight laptop to replace my old Lenovo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main applications I use are development (Mainly in number crunching and Machine Learning, for the intensive applications), the Adobe suite (especially premiere pro, after effects and photoshop), and a few old games. The rest is mostly a matter of taking notes and web browsing. I operate a dualboot to optimize all of those tasks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My minimum requirements are 12Gb of RAM, a small GPU, and enough memory to be comfortable, with a SSD being a plus. I'm more of an AMD fan as far as CPUs are concerned but I'm sadly unable to find any laptop coming with Ryzen CPUs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh, and as I intend to carry it around quite a lot, 13-14&quot; screens are almost mandatory. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend over 1,200$ - except maybe for an outstanding config. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I came across the Asus UX410UF-GV049T, which has an 8th gen Intel Core i7, a 1 Tb HDD, a 256 Gb SSD, 16 Gb of RAM and a Nvidia GeForce MX 130 2G, with a sale making it worth just 1,000$ ; should I go for it or do you have a better option to propose ? I intend on keeping it at least 4-5 years si I'd like to have a second opinion :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frost" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10071" RevisionGUID="f2f58e6b-fe37-4dee-9c06-b2ade4b3d1df" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:56:20.043" UserId="10155" Text="All purpose, high end Laptop/Ultrabook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10071" RevisionGUID="f2f58e6b-fe37-4dee-9c06-b2ade4b3d1df" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:56:20.043" UserId="10155" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33513" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="d7504b85-330f-4a9b-8863-7f6ed65042c0" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:18:00.280" UserId="10135" Comment="deleted 122 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="6e5deb60-238e-48c7-9c6d-50cecc10f99a" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:25:18.440" UserId="10156" Text="I'm looking into gaming laptops and when I look at reviews for ones I'm interested in assuming they list the model number I often find the last 2-3 characters are different. It's also common on online stores to have slightly different model numbers. For example: Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-51-785A  on Micro Center and Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop PH315-51-78NP on Amazon, Countless examples of just saying Acer Predator Helios 300 and giving the release year. It's all so confusing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33515" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="6e5deb60-238e-48c7-9c6d-50cecc10f99a" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:25:18.440" UserId="10156" Text="How Relevant are model numbers when looking for reviews" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33516" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="6e5deb60-238e-48c7-9c6d-50cecc10f99a" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:25:18.440" UserId="10156" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="29f03937-6fe6-45b0-8c1b-97cd8cb200b3" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:27:00.943" UserId="10135" Comment="added 447 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option I found is the Hitachi HP-WU9750b, with a FL-920 lens.  [Again,][2] this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, in case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi CP-SX12000 with the USL-801 lens, which is available for about half the price of the above projectors, and therefore within your price range.  Link found [here][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="24944c5c-3f0a-4d1d-8773-11cf9dc224b8" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:35:40.053" UserId="10135" Comment="added 571 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option I found is the Hitachi [HP-WU9750B][3] or [LP-WU9100B][2], with a FL-920 lens.  Again, this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, in case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi CP-SX12000 with the USL-801 lens.  Its specs are a little worse than the projector you posted (e.g. 1050x1400 pixels instead of 1920x1080, 2500:1 contrast ratio instead of 5000:1, etc.) -- but, it is available for about half the price of the above projectors, and therefore within your price range.  Link found [here][4].  It can create an image 40&quot; - 700&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: I think that the projector you posted is very cheap, considering it has true HD, and such a high contrast ratio.  It is also about half the price of the last projector I posted, so is a good deal.  If you are willing to sacrifice image quality, and so much more money, in order to get a bigger image size, then projector #3 is your best choice.  The first two projectors are great, but very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjAFegQIBBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9100B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0vjESIgSmJfsk0JA0wJkQR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="bfd66d84-9035-4bee-81a3-11f80bfdc279" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:38:57.747" UserId="10156" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="I'm looking into gaming laptops and when I look at reviews for ones I'm interested in assuming they list the model number I often find the last 2-3 characters are different. It's also common on online stores to have slightly different model numbers. For example: Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-51-785A on Micro Center and Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop PH315-51-78NP on Amazon, and countless examples of just saying Acer Predator Helios 300 and giving the release year. It's all so confusing. **Are there any portions of the string i can ignore. As far as I can tell the PH315 is important**. I also noticed the 785A had a 258 gb ssd while the 78 np had a 512 gb ssd. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="44b1740a-fe07-4f51-b99e-322ad1b16122" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:43:52.493" UserId="10135" Comment="added 174 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option I found is the Hitachi [HP-WU9750B][3] or [LP-WU9100B][2], with a FL-920 lens.  Again, this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.  It appears that it's the FL-920 lens that makes this throw ratio and image size work: I'm not sure if it might be possible to retrofit this lens onto some other projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, in case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi CP-SX12000 with the USL-801 lens.  Its specs are a little worse than the projector you posted (e.g. 1050x1400 pixels instead of 1920x1080, 2500:1 contrast ratio instead of 5000:1, etc.) -- but, it is available for about half the price of the above projectors, and therefore within your price range.  Link found [here][4].  It can create an image 40&quot; - 700&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: I think that the projector you posted is very cheap, considering it has true HD, and such a high contrast ratio.  It is also about half the price of the last projector I posted, so is a good deal.  If you are willing to sacrifice image quality, and so much more money, in order to get a bigger image size, then projector #3 is your best choice.  The first two projectors are great, but very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjAFegQIBBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9100B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0vjESIgSmJfsk0JA0wJkQR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="f87c2f94-2a2c-4dc5-a18c-2604e493c820" CreationDate="2018-11-12T23:52:03.863" UserId="10135" Comment="added 250 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, I do not know what size lenses it uses, so cannot tell you where to buy a different lens.  If you want a projector where the lens is sold specifically for this projector, and therefore has a 100% success rate, I recommend buying the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.  This projector is not available on TokoPedia, but others projectors from NEC are, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.  I will keep searching, and if I find something better, I will post it here.  In the meanwhile, if you decide you are flexible with some specification, then I can add those projectors to the search.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other option I found is the Hitachi [HP-WU9750B][2] or [LP-WU9100B][3], with a FL-920 lens.  Again, this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.  It appears that it's the FL-920 lens that makes this throw ratio and image size work: I'm not sure if it might be possible to retrofit this lens onto some other projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, in case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi [CP-SX12000][5] or [CP-X10000J][4] with the USL-801 lens.  Its specs are a little worse than the projector you posted (e.g. for the SX12000 it's 1050x1400 pixels instead of 1920x1080, 2500:1 contrast ratio instead of 5000:1, etc.; even worse for the CP-X10000J) -- but, it is available for about half the price of the above projectors, and therefore within your price range.  It can create an image 40&quot; - 700&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: I think that the projector you posted is very cheap, considering it has true HD, and such a high contrast ratio.  It is also about half the price of the last projector I posted, so is a good deal.  If you are willing to sacrifice image quality, and so much more money, in order to get a bigger image size, then projector #3 is your best choice.  The first two projectors are great, but very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjAFegQIBBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9100B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0vjESIgSmJfsk0JA0wJkQR&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwivz7TohdDeAhUG31MKHUXvCd4QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fservice%2Fpdf%2F10000_g.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw01eab4vDKzYL-YVAJfAO4K&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33522" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10073" RevisionGUID="07c457ea-fb98-4a57-8e50-21a6383821b5" CreationDate="2018-11-13T00:02:26.640" UserId="10135" Text="Yes, the PH315-51-78 is the &quot;main&quot; model number.  The &quot;5&quot; stands for 512GB of memory (otherwise, it carries 256GB of memory).  The letters after that stand for the types of wireless interfaces supported.  For example, the &quot;A&quot; stands for &quot;All&quot;, which are a,b,g,n,ac.  The &quot;NP&quot; means only the ac internet is available.  Other than that, there is no difference between them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="981c556d-831e-44c4-b391-f9202e957aae" CreationDate="2018-11-13T00:17:37.920" UserId="10156" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm looking into gaming laptops and when I look at reviews for ones I'm interested in assuming they list the model number I often find the last 2-3 characters are different. It's also common on online stores to have slightly different model numbers. For example: Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-51-785A on Micro Center and Acer Predator Helios 300 Gaming Laptop PH315-51-78NP on Amazon, and countless examples of just saying Acer Predator Helios 300 and giving the release year. It's all so confusing. **Are there any portions of the string i can ignore. As far as I can tell the PH315 is important**. I also noticed the 785A had a 512 gb ssd while the 78 np had a 218 gb ssd. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33524" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10074" RevisionGUID="2aca5cae-db19-48fb-9fa8-4551f6f4aa32" CreationDate="2018-11-13T03:31:30.077" UserId="10135" Text="If you are looking for price, an [HP EliteBook 725 G3][1] would be your best bet, with   a 12.5&quot; HD screen, and prices starting at $649 right now. [Amazon][2] claims to carry it for $500 brand new, but I'm not sure I'd believe the drug store claiming it's new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, in fact, for only $899, you can get the [Lenovo ThinkPad E485][3] with a 14&quot; HD screen, and a Ryzen (yes!) processor. ($799 if you're willing to drop the SSD requirement.)  Notice that SSD size upgrades are *very* cheap for this model; I'd pay the $100 to upgrade to the 512GB SSD if I were buying this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, there are *many* more choices.  Many.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100006740%20600136700&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=HP%20EliteBook%20725%20G3&amp;name=Laptops%20%2f%20Notebooks&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;Pagesize=60&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-EliteBook-Business-A8X4-1-6G-AMD-RADEONR6/dp/B01GHLV0JU/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542079439&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=HP%20EliteBook%20725%20G3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA7AB7ZH6307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33525" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="d073f46f-b467-4fbd-831c-8060216aaffd" CreationDate="2018-11-13T03:47:09.550" UserId="10135" Comment="added 333 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by finding an appropriate lens.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, that projector lenses are actually what comprise the majority of the price.  For example, if you look through the examples below, it seems that the lens needed to project such a wide image so close, itself can easily cost $5000 or more.  Therefore, if you can purchase a lens to project a 150&quot; image with such a low throw ratio, for such a low price -- I'd take it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in case you are truly dedicated to getting a larger image, I will outline your choices.  I checked the projectors on Tocopedia, and none of these projectors are available there; however, all these projectors are sold by companies which Tocopedia carries, so I suspect you can get it easier than some other products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #1: you can buy the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #2: the Hitachi [HP-WU9750B][2] or [LP-WU9100B][3], with a FL-920 lens.  Again, this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #3: In case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi [CP-SX12000][5] or [CP-X10000J][4] with the USL-801 lens.  Its Throw Ratio is 0.405, and the image 40 - 700 inches.  This lens only costs $2500, which is pretty cheap, so it might be worth buying this lens first, and seeing whether you can retrofit it onto another projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projector itself, although fairly expensive, actually has specs a little worse than the projector you posted.  For instance, for the SX12000 it's 1050x1400 pixels instead of 1920x1080, 2500:1 contrast ratio instead of 5000:1, etc.; the specs are even worse for the CP-X10000J.  But then again, the price of this projector is about half the price of #1 and #2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: I think that the projector you posted is very cheap, considering it has true HD, and such a high contrast ratio.  It is also about half the price of the last projector I posted, so is a good deal.  If you are willing to sacrifice image quality, and so much more money, in order to get a bigger image size, then projector #3 is your best choice.  But even then, I would buy the lens first, and only buy the projector if I cannot find a way to retrofit the lens onto a cheaper projector.  The first two projectors are great, but very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjAFegQIBBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9100B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0vjESIgSmJfsk0JA0wJkQR&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwivz7TohdDeAhUG31MKHUXvCd4QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fservice%2Fpdf%2F10000_g.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw01eab4vDKzYL-YVAJfAO4K&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="e0f3eabb-9322-49dd-9c0a-121af9028453" CreationDate="2018-11-13T11:31:40.513" UserId="10135" Text="I often have adverse health effects when sitting behind a monitor for more than a short period of time.  I am interested in finding out, what exactly it is that's affecting me.  For example, I have certain monitors behind which adverse health effects start after 15 minutes -- even if it's couple feet away; others take a couple hours to kick in.  By measuring different aspects of these monitors, I was hoping to be able to zero in on, what exactly it causing these effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing I was planning to do was, to measure the frequency of the screen flicker by [hooking up][1] a [photodiode][2] to an oscilloscope.  However, I do not expect the results to be very different from, say, a regular LED lamp.  On the other hand, LED lamps do not affect my health adversely -- so, it is probably only certain wavelengths which affect me adversely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the other thing that I would need is, a spectrometer to measure the light from the monitor, to see which frequencies occur how often.  Preferably, it should be something that can be adapted to tell me the frequency also -- but even a regular spectrometer I'll take.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No budget limit right now, just a matter of seeing whether it's possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/oscilloscope-and-probe-to-measure-led-flicker/msg1257849/?PHPSESSID=5jhv5eclgu4mnt0a6abovmkkp7#msg1257849&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photodiode-Avalanche-Photo-Diode-Detector-Perkin-Elmer-Canada-SiAPD-C30902E/201705441309?hash=item2ef694c81d:g:NloAAMXQJxdRIVOg:rk:28:pf:0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33527" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="e0f3eabb-9322-49dd-9c0a-121af9028453" CreationDate="2018-11-13T11:31:40.513" UserId="10135" Text="What can measure the flicker of a monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33528" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="e0f3eabb-9322-49dd-9c0a-121af9028453" CreationDate="2018-11-13T11:31:40.513" UserId="10135" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10070" RevisionGUID="cb4c868e-d07d-4e6a-900b-3e655e2eac1c" CreationDate="2018-11-13T11:35:32.880" UserId="10135" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="First of all, I'd like to start by saying that the throw ratio for this projector = 0.133 is very good.  If you put a different lens on it, for example that can focus when 70cm away, then your image would be 210&quot; wide.  In other words, you can get a larger image size simply by moving the projector farther from the wall, provided you can find a lens that can focus that distance.  The projector you posted is very, very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The bad thing is, that projector lenses are actually what comprise the majority of the price.  For example, if you look through the examples below, it seems that the lens needed to project such a wide image so close, itself can easily cost $5000 or more.  Therefore, if you can purchase a lens to project a 150&quot; image with such a low throw ratio, for such a low price -- I'd take it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in case you are truly dedicated to getting a larger image, I will outline your choices.  I checked the projectors on Tocopedia, and the below projectors are not available there; however, all of the below projectors are sold by companies which Tocopedia carries, so I suspect you can get them easier than some other products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #1: you can buy the NEC PX803UL with a NP39ML lens.  As [you can see][1], this would result in an image of 100 - 350 inches, with a Throw ratio of 0.38 : 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #2: the Hitachi [HP-WU9750B][2] or [LP-WU9100B][3], with a FL-920 lens.  Again, this would result a Throw ratio of approximately 0.327, and an image of 100 - 350 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #3: In case you can have a little bit of leeway, and mount your projector 2.1m away instead of 2m away, there is the Hitachi [CP-SX12000][5] or [CP-X10000J][4] with the USL-801 lens.  Its Throw Ratio is 0.42, and it can project an image 40 - 700 inches.  This lens only costs $2500, which is pretty cheap, so it might be worth buying this lens first, and seeing whether you can retrofit it onto a cheaper projector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projector itself, although fairly expensive, actually has specs a little worse than the projector you posted.  For instance, for the SX12000 it's 1050x1400 pixels instead of 1920x1080, 2500:1 contrast ratio instead of 5000:1, etc.; the specs are even worse for the CP-X10000J.  But then again, the price of this projector is about half the price of #1 and #2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom line: I think that the projector you posted is very cheap, considering it has true HD, and such a high contrast ratio.  It is also about half the price of the last projector I posted, so is a good deal.  If you are willing to sacrifice image quality, and so much more money, in order to get a bigger image size, then projector #3 is your best choice.  But even then, I would buy the lens first, and only buy the projector if I cannot find a way to retrofit the lens onto a cheaper projector.  The first two projectors are great, but very expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiHmIzE78_eAhVB3lMKHaD3DJ8QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nec-pj.com%2Fcat_data%2Fpj%2FWDPJ-1601-0012bN.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0K2NH1VC33N4tSchaQZt9u&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjACegQICBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9750B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw03Olazc1ZhDtzgjn-uRPEO&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjAFegQIBBAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fdocs%2FLP-WU9100B_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0vjESIgSmJfsk0JA0wJkQR&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=2ahUKEwivz7TohdDeAhUG31MKHUXvCd4QFjABegQIBxAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fservice%2Fpdf%2F10000_g.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw01eab4vDKzYL-YVAJfAO4K&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=4&amp;ved=2ahUKEwig1uOs_8_eAhVQ2FMKHe39AM4QFjADegQICRAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fproj-support.maxell.co.jp%2FProd%2Fvims%2Fproj%2Fen%2Fprojector%2Fcategories%2Fprofessional%2Fpdf%2Fcommon%2FCP-WX11000_SX12000_Brochure.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw3ZbxaA8kURjm4UhHazFQRh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="6c8bea8d-dd65-4c5b-b397-f7ba5cec2058" CreationDate="2018-11-13T11:53:52.650" UserId="10135" Comment="added 566 characters in body" Text="I often have adverse health effects when sitting behind a monitor for more than a short period of time.  I am interested in finding out, what exactly it is that's affecting me.  For example, I have certain monitors behind which adverse health effects start after 15 minutes -- even if it's couple feet away; others take a couple hours to kick in.  By measuring different aspects of these monitors, I was hoping to be able to zero in on, what exactly it causing these effects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing I was planning to do was, to measure the frequency of the screen flicker by [hooking up][1] a [photodiode][2] to an oscilloscope.  However, I do not expect the results to be very different from, say, a regular LED lamp.  On the other hand, LED lamps do not affect my health adversely -- so, it is probably only certain wavelengths which affect me adversely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the other thing that I would need is, a spectrometer to measure the light from the monitor, to see which frequencies occur how often.  Preferably, it should be something that can be adapted to tell me the frequency also -- but even a regular spectrometer I'll take.  The only types of spectrometers I've been able to find either measure the spectrum of [liquids][3], [gases][4], or [give only the single highest frequency][5].  I am not familiar enough with spectroscopes to know, whether any of these types can be adapted to measure visible light.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No budget limit right now, just a matter of seeing whether it's possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/oscilloscope-and-probe-to-measure-led-flicker/msg1257849/?PHPSESSID=5jhv5eclgu4mnt0a6abovmkkp7#msg1257849&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photodiode-Avalanche-Photo-Diode-Detector-Perkin-Elmer-Canada-SiAPD-C30902E/201705441309?hash=item2ef694c81d:g:NloAAMXQJxdRIVOg:rk:28:pf:0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.hach.com/dr3900-laboratory-vis-spectrophotometer-with-rfid-technology/product?id=7640439026&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/Educational-Spectroscope-72411/24210?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIraa9w5_R3gIVjLbICh17-g5AEAYYBCABEgI8yvD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-RM200QC-Imaging-Spectrocolorimeter/dp/B00S4HFY1G/ref=asc_df_B00S4HFY1G/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198091577722&amp;hvpos=1o3&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=2821388698103052680&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9010450&amp;hvtargid=pla-319683242123&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33531" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="bf87ec04-51c5-41eb-84ff-ff88b6000368" CreationDate="2018-11-13T12:31:44.623" UserId="10135" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33532" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="ca8790e1-b53f-47de-aac0-ac94b7b8c7df" CreationDate="2018-11-13T12:32:11.197" UserId="10135" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33533" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10076" RevisionGUID="270a2a15-33da-4772-8d98-cf27e283589b" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:23:48.483" UserId="10135" Text="The [Sony - DPT Series Digital Paper][1] is in fact the first such product, developed precisely for the reason that many people were in your boat.  Going down your requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* easily put bookmarks on pages; (preferably multiple types of bookmarks)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not sure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* easily go to chapters based on contents section;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* easily switch back and forth bookmarked pages, or between chapters; (preferably easily switch between pdfs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes to between chapters; not sure for others&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* draw notes in existing pdf files with a pen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* easily go through such notes or bookmarks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Easily transfer files to the tablet via wifi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Bonuses: taking notes in a note-taking app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* doesn't necessarily have to do anything else (e.g. no youtube, email, etc)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its functionality other than what you can write on the screen is very limited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-dpt-series-digital-paper-13-3-16gb-black/6285505.p?skuId=6285505" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33535" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9233" RevisionGUID="016ea0b9-ef5b-4552-ae77-c046fc41f5c2" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:33:25.027" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10077" RevisionGUID="eaa40a44-4826-4fe6-9349-587fcd4e81d2" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:11.333" UserId="10135" Text="DO NOT BUY Dasung.  I spent around $1000 on their Paperlike, and it crashes after about 20-30 seconds the first time, and after 2-3 frames subsequently.  I tried troubleshooting this with them, and they had me try different things, updated firmware, etc., until the 120-day deadline with PayPal passed (60+ days of this was purely shipping) -- and then, they're just ignoring my e-mails.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SONY DPT RP1 has a very limited functionality.  Only read existing PDF files, and write things on the screen.  No additional apps, no functionality as a monitor, anything.  However, if all you need it for is to read PDF's, then it is very fast and stable -- highly recommend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good e-reader 13.3&quot; has Android, which means that you can run other apps also.  At the same time, it sorta implies that it will be slower at best, if not buggy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Onyx Boox Max Carta has Android, and the additional option to create your own software for it, making it the most versatile of the four.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't tried out Icarus A4, since it's still in the production stage.  There is still a possibility that it might turn out to have a story similar to Dasung." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33537" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="21a57b6a-1a05-4cba-8b36-37bcdc700270" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:35.893" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33538" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9295" RevisionGUID="e8b2d7af-eca2-4c78-98b6-e1d5ef621044" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:39.910" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33540" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7482" RevisionGUID="dbd8aa38-a323-4745-b057-57594c14fb2f" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:46.957" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33541" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5995" RevisionGUID="c74efaf5-4233-443b-9291-7f1803d653a0" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:51.223" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33542" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2518" RevisionGUID="d6a98ebe-0a21-47db-8882-9ee713c3f85d" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:34:56.690" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33543" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="99e0f44d-a7f8-47e3-93a0-354bd69b6bce" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:37:20.300" UserId="10135" Comment="Added a tag to reflect what OP said he's looking for, in the comments to the answer." Text="&lt;splitters&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33544" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9922" RevisionGUID="99e0f44d-a7f8-47e3-93a0-354bd69b6bce" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:37:20.300" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 5449 edit id of 752" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10078" RevisionGUID="be4f9ef1-7ae7-4b8e-91f8-e42d576a9c7d" CreationDate="2018-11-13T13:51:38.183" UserId="9560" Text="The tablet I can propose is Microsoft Surface 4. Specially model with 8GB of RAM and i5 processor have no problem with latency and I use it extensively with Adobe Lightroom with pen. Also time to time I play with Windows 10 app for handwriting and see no lag of pen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33552" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="aa8ea5eb-506f-493c-8244-401fa9965444" CreationDate="2018-11-13T16:03:05.703" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10079" RevisionGUID="671f46a3-c212-4679-8247-6bdfa9c4b8cf" CreationDate="2018-11-13T16:59:05.953" UserId="9084" Text="For monitors, you don't need to do this at all.   It's in the monitor spec.   Have you ever seen a monitor boast it has a 120hz  [Refresh Rate][1]?  In perhaps the simplest equivalency in computing, 1 Hertz = 1 Frame each second.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frames are the still images displayed by the screen.  Just like movies, we still view our screens as a series of rapidly changing still images.   This is why when you experience &quot;graphics lag&quot;, you get visual stuttering, as the computer hangs on a frame and fails to send updates to the monitor. Low refresh rates, common in older, CRT monitors and early LCDs, can cause headaches and eye discomfort.   High refresh rates allow for improved clarity, a more comfortable viewing experience, and more fluid motion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Makers are required by law in many places to display this information on the packaging, due to the very health concerns you're experiencing.  They're more than happy to provide the information, as it's an accurate measure of image quality and they're eager to show off high rates that allow for 3D Stereoscopic viewing; however, if the monitor has aged, this can degrade the monitor quality with use.  It shouldn't be noticeable, but if you're like me and hang on to monitors until they go black and never turn on again, it might be something that has happened. For situations like that, you can use the computer itself to test the monitor (as it must internally just to sync its images) using tools provided by your graphic card manufacturer or websites like [this one.][2]  You can just look up the monitor model online for the base spec, and you can view the monitor properties in Device Manager or Display Properties on a Windows system to see its operational Refresh Rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By all means, give this a try and post your rates, it might be a good supplement to the question to know your results!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refresh_rate&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.testufo.com/refreshrate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10080" RevisionGUID="5fcf7578-0830-4e53-ac97-938135783406" CreationDate="2018-11-13T17:31:52.650" UserId="9084" Text="Since it sounds like you're just looking for a basic Linux box that has the RAM and processor for some work as a basic server and high-end workstation, is that correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming so, pretty much anything from either major manufacturer (AMD, Intel) will do the job.  AMD tends to be a little cheaper on the processor for a little less performance (not like the old K6-2 days where they were always superior to Intel) and both companies make phenomenal multi-core processors.   The flagship of the Intel line is the i9 series, but I recommend anyone that isn't using the computer for enterprise-level stuff go with an i7 for the value - to - performance as you won't see much of a difference unless you really tax that thing.   I use an i7-8700k overclocked to 5.3 ghz and it's a good value for the processor.   AMD's ThreadRipper is an amazing home server core, but is really more in competition with Xeons than it is the i-series.   Both companies now have *video processing on-die* so no video card is necessary, especially if your motherboard has more than one VGA, DVI, Displayport, etc.   You can just plug one into each connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboards are basically Manufacturer + features.   Reliability isn't much of a measure here until you dive into the &quot;nobody&quot; boards.  Just pick the Asus, Gigabyte, etc. board of your choice based on features. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor frequencies aren't moving much because of both heat and the lack of need over the last several years.  They consume *less* power now, but require *cleaner* power to perform well.  Your old PSU might work, but I wouldn't risk it, not when you can get a brand spanking new 650w EVGA Bronze PSU for about 60 bucks on sale.  it's also possible your old PSU doesn't have the second power connector for the motherboard, which won't *stop* the computer from working but it will make it less stable and prone to clocking itself down. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB of RAM is now the &quot;High End Standard&quot; for home users.   8GB is the standard for retail.   32GB is for gamers and enthusiasts and we don't even use that much, 64GB is for people with more money and need for bragging rights than sense, and anything above that is for server work and massive, multiple-application environments like running VMWare hosts.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were you, I'd scale down the requirements and spend more money on storage.  That's the new nightmare for computer users; local storage runs out really fast in the age of selfies and downloading everything and sharing memes and larger software.  Visual Studio on Windows 10 by itself takes up 20GB with some of the features installed. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10081" RevisionGUID="fc027e07-a30b-4817-a69d-098cf44eccb4" CreationDate="2018-11-13T19:40:08.700" UserId="10135" Text="The mail people where I live are very careless.  When I ship packages, unless I purchase insurance or send through registered mail, the packages tend to get lost very often.  The postal worker who receives packages even tells me, Are you  sure you want to send this as parcel post?  If it gets lost, you'll have no recourse, even though it has tracking...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am tired of having to pay $6 to send a letter as insured.  Doesn't help that FedEx and UPS cost even more.  They always get lost locally, and cannot be found despite having a tracking number.  I suspect that they toss these letters in the trash, because they want people to purchase insurance.  Is there a GPS device I can put in a letter to mail, so that if it gets lost again, I can find where exactly it is, and file a complaint?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Free or very low-cost tracking available, possibly with my data SIM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Can last 2 days on a battery: so that if it gets lost, I can find it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Relatively lightweight (first-class is 13 oz. max, so I want to fool them into thinking it's just a package like the ones I usually send).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most GPS devices out there have (2) but not (1).  [This unit][1] I found has (1), but its battery lasts 7-8 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Tracker-Anti-theft-Realtime-Tracking/dp/B00USOHD76/ref=zg_bs_5811986011_21?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=57V0GJZG975F8HFTSSK3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33558" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10081" RevisionGUID="fc027e07-a30b-4817-a69d-098cf44eccb4" CreationDate="2018-11-13T19:40:08.700" UserId="10135" Text="GPS tracker for package?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33559" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10081" RevisionGUID="fc027e07-a30b-4817-a69d-098cf44eccb4" CreationDate="2018-11-13T19:40:08.700" UserId="10135" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;energy-efficient&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33560" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10081" RevisionGUID="de7fc6da-978c-4faa-8e9c-8bd73be019bf" CreationDate="2018-11-13T19:53:10.217" UserId="10135" Comment="edited title" Text="GPS tracker for parcel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33561" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="2115c2d6-8d7a-4ed6-9935-eafbcf062dd5" CreationDate="2018-11-13T22:00:15.203" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33562" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9370" RevisionGUID="2115c2d6-8d7a-4ed6-9935-eafbcf062dd5" CreationDate="2018-11-13T22:00:15.203" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 9439 edit id of 760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33565" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="45296112-67c9-4fce-b44c-ab450e9b803f" CreationDate="2018-11-14T05:02:50.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33566" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10082" RevisionGUID="7924cd71-6509-49d2-bdab-e209a55060d9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T08:50:11.153" UserId="8003" Text="I'm looking for a proper replacement card (or cards) for my current R9 290X cards. I currently run two of them in CF (three will not increase the performance significant, only the power consumption).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current specs (with the R9 cards):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: i7-8086K @ 5.00GHz (Delid)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: Corsair RGB 16GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - ASUS ROG Z370X Board&#xD;&#xA; - BeQuiet 1kW PSU&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung SSD 850&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The card(s) should perform well (60 FPS+) with a 5760x1200 resolution, and should be able to handle games like &quot;Shadow of the Tomb Raider&quot; maxed out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a card, or a CF/SLI setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33567" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10082" RevisionGUID="7924cd71-6509-49d2-bdab-e209a55060d9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T08:50:11.153" UserId="8003" Text="Replacement graphics card for a R9 290X CF setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33568" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10082" RevisionGUID="7924cd71-6509-49d2-bdab-e209a55060d9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T08:50:11.153" UserId="8003" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33569" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="caa9d701-c1c3-4b9d-8ecd-81c49f606630" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:23:24.993" UserId="10135" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33570" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10075" RevisionGUID="2f023d02-06d6-4800-8896-9deae510f9d2" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:24:06.780" UserId="10135" Comment="edited title" Text="What can measure the spectrum frequencies of a monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33571" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10055" RevisionGUID="3c875aa1-08f4-42c2-ba7a-105286694197" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:25:13.513" UserId="10135" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10083" RevisionGUID="d76a0276-17c2-4525-b8c1-b77eb8d97daa" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:39:08.803" UserId="10135" Text="If your load is 470W, then even at 110V (worst-case scenario), you are using 4.3A.  This means that for an 18AWG power cable to work, it has to be shorter than 4m.  Which I strongly suspect is the case.  If not, let us know, and we'll update the answer for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, when asking this, you should include the length of the power cable, as it makes a huge difference.  For example, I have a 28AWG cable that could handle ~150A, which is ~35 times as much as your scenario -- precisely because it is only a couple inches long." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33573" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10084" RevisionGUID="b40098f5-de58-4963-b196-18d72fd4c26b" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:40:37.253" UserId="7222" Text="What I want is to record a stereo input signal on a USB drive or SD card, without the use of a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is I play in a rock band, and during rehearsals it would be nice to be able to record the output of our mixing device. We don't need all 16 outputs, just a simple stereo mix will do (we have mic-ed/lined all singers/instruments).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a cheap solution (otherwise I can bring my laptop), but I see many dictaphones with microphones builtin, but not with a (stereo) audio input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33574" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10084" RevisionGUID="b40098f5-de58-4963-b196-18d72fd4c26b" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:40:37.253" UserId="7222" Text="How to record a stereo signal on USB drive/SD card without a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33575" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10084" RevisionGUID="b40098f5-de58-4963-b196-18d72fd4c26b" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:40:37.253" UserId="7222" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33576" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10085" RevisionGUID="e9b00f70-be13-46a6-8519-ea4e50a6090c" CreationDate="2018-11-14T13:47:24.357" UserId="10135" Text="From WikiPedia, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Standalone cabinet PDUs are self-contained units that include main breakers, individual circuit breakers, and power monitoring panels. The cabinet provides internal bus bars for neutral and grounding. Prepunched top and bottom panels allow for safe cable entry.[6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example: [APC 0G-PD40G6FK1-M][2].&#xD;&#xA;[![APC 0G-PD40G6FK1-M][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/WASMq.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-InfraStruXure-PDU-Power-Distribution-Cabinet-0G-PD40G6FK1-M/183345299137?hash=item2ab03b3ec1:g:cVEAAOSwsz9b22RS:rk:10:pf:0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33577" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="c4f80292-2ff8-4c39-8533-b94fe4ecf1eb" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:00:49.603" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33578" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="c4f80292-2ff8-4c39-8533-b94fe4ecf1eb" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:00:49.603" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 7953 edit id of 768" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33579" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9310" RevisionGUID="95e939bb-676c-49f3-a7bc-63debb5c2ceb" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:01:23.000" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33580" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9310" RevisionGUID="95e939bb-676c-49f3-a7bc-63debb5c2ceb" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:01:23.000" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 9248 edit id of 769" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33581" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9399" RevisionGUID="6ad27dfc-5eb9-42c3-9b6d-66379265d268" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:01:48.967" UserId="7953" Comment="edited body" Text="Remote sensing of vehicle emissions consists of analyzing the emissions of a vehicle passing by using a light source and a light detector (generally in the IR and UV range) to check if the car is compliant to the current legislation against pollution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This works because each pollution element absorbs the light at a different frequency.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know there are the existing commercial devices that can do this are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - EDAR by [HEAT LLC][1]&#xD;&#xA; - RSD by [Envirotest Opus Inspections][2]&#xD;&#xA; - FEAT by University of Denver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These devices consists basically in two parts to be put on the opposite sides of the street: an emitter (or emitter/detector) and a detector (or a mirror to bounce the light back to the emitter/detector device). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These devices are very expensive because they are ready-to-use and includes a graphical interface so that almost anyone can use them and I think they implement all the algorithms to get the concentration but I am not interested in them. So I am looking if it is possible to build something (even less precise) by myself starting from lower-level elements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if there exist light emitters/detectors sensors to analyze gas concentration(s) for this task where the emitter and detector are separate and that can work with a relatively long distance (3-4 meters) and whose output can be acquired/sampled by an embedded computer? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The optical gas sensors I have seen are generally on single-board while others are for proximity/obstacle detections so that the frequency they use is not suitable for such applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.heatremotesensing.com&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://opusinspection.com/remote-sensing-device-technology/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10086" RevisionGUID="3ac153bc-3e99-4fc5-8464-ac9fb4309943" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:07:40.077" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33583" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10086" RevisionGUID="3ac153bc-3e99-4fc5-8464-ac9fb4309943" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:07:40.077" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10087" RevisionGUID="c66443bc-bfa2-448a-a69a-c21e7426bae3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:07:40.077" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10087" RevisionGUID="c66443bc-bfa2-448a-a69a-c21e7426bae3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:07:40.077" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10088" RevisionGUID="d7cae3da-62d8-4eec-aa14-b46e217a37b3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:24:34.923" UserId="10135" Text="A simple search for &quot;stereo recorders&quot; turned out plenty of results, such as [Tascam DR-05][1].  It has two unidirectional audio microphones, pointed to the left and to the right, which makes it work really well.  Also, it supports (and includes) an SD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samash.com/tascam-dr-05-portable-handheld-recorder-tdr05xxxx?cm_mmc=GoogleShopping-_-Recording-_-Channeladvisor-_-Tascam%20DR-05%20Portable%20Handheld%20Recorder&amp;utm_source=GSH&amp;utm_medium=CSE&amp;utm_campaign=Channeladvisor&amp;CAWELAID=1594747829&amp;CAGPSPN=pla&amp;CAAGID=61896926156&amp;CATCI=pla-555309262683&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoZ_usYrU3gIViJyzCh3f7A1rEAQYAiABEgJpTfD_BwE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10089" RevisionGUID="fae50bcc-e58c-4403-9062-83efb7946f4a" CreationDate="2018-11-14T14:54:34.937" UserId="10135" Text="Since you modified your requirements, I am posting an answer, in case someone needs the first answer for the old requirements.  What you would need is, a recording mixer.  And unfortunately, those are simply not optimized for being cheap.  If you needed to replace your mixer, then it would not be a big price difference to simply buy one that does recording also.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you will be pleasantly surprised that I did find one professional audio recorder for less than $100.  Professional.  Sitting there in the middle of all the other products for $500, $300, $1000.  [Technical Pro UREC7][1] is a rack-mountable device that can not only record audio on an SD or a USB professionally, but has all the adjustments for treble and bass, supports RCA inputs and outputs, etc.  Very fortunate to have found one so cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/252995-technical-pro-urec7-1ru-usb-sd-recorder" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="0257143c-47ac-42be-978a-24e5d81b6da9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:35:14.093" UserId="10161" Text="Can anyone recommend a good USB-C multifunction hub for use with a 2018 MacBook Pro? It has to be bus-powered, have ethernet, SD card, HDMI, hopefully VGA as well, audio out, and at least 2 USB 3 ports. Most of the models available with all these ports on amazon are from no-name distributors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are 3, which are obviously the same model:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHD3VC/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYBMQKD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HR6Z8VF/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh, and this one, which is by a different manufacturer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFNVWVB/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The OWC Travel Dock doesn't have enough ports, nor does the Kingston &quot;Nucleum.&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="0257143c-47ac-42be-978a-24e5d81b6da9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:35:14.093" UserId="10161" Text="Can anyone recommend a reliable multiport USB-C Hub?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="0257143c-47ac-42be-978a-24e5d81b6da9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:35:14.093" UserId="10161" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33591" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10083" RevisionGUID="9fe1749b-a7ba-4b84-8fc6-90aa5df125f8" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:08:43.943" UserId="10135" Comment="added 169 characters in body" Text="If your load is 470W, then even at 110V (worst-case scenario), you are using 4.3A.  This means that for an 18AWG power cable to work at room temperature, it has to be shorter than 4m.  Which I strongly suspect is the case.  If not, let us know, and we'll update the answer for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, when asking this, you should include the length of the power cable, and the temperature you'll use it in -- as it makes a huge difference.  For example, I had a 24AWG cable that could handle ~150A at below freezing, which is ~35 times as much as your scenario -- precisely because it is only a couple inches long.  One time I used it at above a freezing temperature, and it melted the isolation off of it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10091" RevisionGUID="6efafb9e-7494-4c47-a2c1-a0403e31dbe0" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:18:12.467" UserId="4322" Text="Naztech makes a device they call the &quot;Xtra Drive Mini&quot; that is something like what I am after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's made of aluminum, takes a microSD card, and attaches to a keyring. It has shortcomings though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Non-retractable (read: easily broken) proprietary Lighting connector&#xD;&#xA;   with a removable (therefore loseable) cap.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - No keyring hole like the DataTraveler or Samsung above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2elIF.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33593" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="ffa7ff33-3f86-478f-a8f0-d6c4d02318b3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:22:54.520" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33594" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9433" RevisionGUID="ffa7ff33-3f86-478f-a8f0-d6c4d02318b3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:22:54.520" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 9506 edit id of 767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10092" RevisionGUID="ce651dcd-abff-4d46-b5ef-8aa205185596" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:23:53.987" UserId="10135" Text="Here is [one from Lenovo][1]; it is also cheaper than the options you included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to drop the audio requirement, you can get it [even cheaper][2] (without VGA).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope Lenovo is a reliable enough manufacturer for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery-Compatible/dp/B07FQBX53Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542212460&amp;sr=1-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Aluminum-Ethernet-Delivery-Compatible/dp/B07919GQ4R/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542212460&amp;sr=1-4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33599" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="cc1d4300-64e6-4aa6-aacd-696c2fc1a4e5" CreationDate="2018-11-14T17:15:23.820" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33600" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9220" RevisionGUID="cc1d4300-64e6-4aa6-aacd-696c2fc1a4e5" CreationDate="2018-11-14T17:15:23.820" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 57 edit id of 771" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33601" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="b04694f1-c378-451c-8ae6-60331cca1099" CreationDate="2018-11-14T17:33:51.963" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33602" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9275" RevisionGUID="b04694f1-c378-451c-8ae6-60331cca1099" CreationDate="2018-11-14T17:33:51.963" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 9296 edit id of 770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33610" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10082" RevisionGUID="2e076a9d-0300-4efd-b050-e541aa83ac87" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:04:34.950" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33611" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10082" RevisionGUID="2e076a9d-0300-4efd-b050-e541aa83ac87" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:04:34.950" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 761" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33612" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="fe565f9c-e59f-4997-a83b-82e77f0737f3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:04:38.653" UserId="10135" Comment="Added a tag which better matches the intent of the question." Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33613" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="578" RevisionGUID="fe565f9c-e59f-4997-a83b-82e77f0737f3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:04:38.653" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 759" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33624" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="d65652ce-5bfd-4242-a8fe-53c019b155a3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:32.463" UserId="10135" Comment="Add an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;internet-of-things&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33625" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9836" RevisionGUID="d65652ce-5bfd-4242-a8fe-53c019b155a3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:32.463" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 751" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33628" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="cb8bbabd-b855-489b-917c-1ddc7f62d613" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:41.110" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33629" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="cb8bbabd-b855-489b-917c-1ddc7f62d613" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:41.110" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 774" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33630" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="1f3e00e0-c41b-407d-9c4d-dc297f816d34" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:44.253" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33631" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="1f3e00e0-c41b-407d-9c4d-dc297f816d34" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:05:44.253" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 754" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33632" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="3fe1c813-9844-4a7c-9c55-6047e4d1ec4f" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:27.627" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33633" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2213" RevisionGUID="3fe1c813-9844-4a7c-9c55-6047e4d1ec4f" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:27.627" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33634" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="9218de51-018f-4449-8299-1bbcd6e919f3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:30.223" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33635" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9643" RevisionGUID="9218de51-018f-4449-8299-1bbcd6e919f3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:30.223" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 765" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33636" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10071" RevisionGUID="c1d32e9f-dd47-4deb-b0a7-67f172e920ee" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:32.990" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33637" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10071" RevisionGUID="c1d32e9f-dd47-4deb-b0a7-67f172e920ee" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:32.990" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 762" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="983b0b9a-c51a-4171-bac9-625a62e55fc3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:38.213" UserId="10135" Comment="Edited tag to match what OP was asking." Text="I currently have a 5 year old HP laptop running Windows 7. I live in a rural area where our internet speeds are 1 MB or less. I am actually able to do skype calls and online video chats with people online even with my poor internet connection (it is very low quality but it works).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 7 is starting to get a bit old and I was thinking that it was time to get a new laptop. The first laptop that I got was a HP Stream 15 or 14 inch screen with 4 GB of RAM. I know that it is not a powerful computer, but I mostly just browse the web and use skype. Unfortunately, Windows 10 has such large updates that 100% of my internet connection is always consumed by updates. My DSL modem is running/sending traffic continually. At times, it is very difficult to even get it to load google. The HP Stream has behaved like this even when it was new - so it doesn't have a virus and I installed a virus checker and did a scan to verify that it has no viruses. My Windows 7 laptop does not consume large amounts of bandwidth like the HP Stream. I also tried setting my wifi connection to be metered, but it still consumes all of my available internet bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next device that I tried was an Acer Chromebook. I know that skype doesn't run natively on chromebooks, but I found some online browser based video chat websites and tried using one of these (there is also an online version of skype). However, about 10 minutes into the chat, the entire labtop's screen goes black and it crashes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've now tried both Windows 10 and Chromebooks. Windows 10 would be fine if it could download multi-gigabyte updates (I've even left my HP Stream on overnight in hopes that it would download the updates, but it is still not done in the morning). Chromebooks would be fine if they didn't crash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good recommendation for a labtop that would work well on a super slow internet connection? Should I look for a new windows 7 labtop? Macs are too expensive for me to try." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33639" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="983b0b9a-c51a-4171-bac9-625a62e55fc3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:38.213" UserId="10135" Comment="Edited tag to match what OP was asking." Text="Laptop for video conferencing on slow rural internet connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33640" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="983b0b9a-c51a-4171-bac9-625a62e55fc3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:38.213" UserId="10135" Comment="Edited tag to match what OP was asking." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33641" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9550" RevisionGUID="983b0b9a-c51a-4171-bac9-625a62e55fc3" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:38.213" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33642" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="05b38882-0172-445a-9f2e-2b37d513b37d" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:42.097" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33643" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9528" RevisionGUID="05b38882-0172-445a-9f2e-2b37d513b37d" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:42.097" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 8 edit id of 758" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33646" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10084" RevisionGUID="40b80378-306f-4110-a559-14d693677c9a" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:50.450" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Made the title more on-topic" Text="Looking for a device to record a stereo signal on USB drive/SD card without a laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33647" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10084" RevisionGUID="40b80378-306f-4110-a559-14d693677c9a" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:06:50.450" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 8 edit id of 773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10087" RevisionGUID="253b0f1c-c4cf-4ea2-8d74-613e10230242" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:07:24.490" UserId="10135" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="Device with some spec so extreme that normal users of this device don't need it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33649" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10087" RevisionGUID="253b0f1c-c4cf-4ea2-8d74-613e10230242" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:07:24.490" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by -1 edit id of 772" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10087" RevisionGUID="64c71901-9773-4da8-abfa-02d0fe8e8d9a" CreationDate="2018-11-14T18:07:24.490" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="Devices with higher specifications than most users of the device need." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10094" RevisionGUID="6db050a8-c616-45ad-876b-727f9ed6f3c9" CreationDate="2018-11-14T20:49:23.383" UserId="6047" Text="Personally, the people that I know of that engage in graphic design typically use and recommend [**drawing pen tablets**][1] like these rather than consumer touchscreens, particularly due to the fact touchscreens do not have good (if at all) pressure sensitivity. These drawing pen tablets do not seem to have any lag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also [**specialized drawing tablets**, on which you can draw directly on][2], however; they tend to be very pricey compared to cheaper &quot;dumb&quot; input pen tablets (like the wacom drawing tablet specified in the link above) that I see most beginners start with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also not an artist and cannot speak to the durability or usability of these drawing pen tablets. As a result I am not comfortable directly recommending a specific tablet because I can speak to its efficacy. I hope this answer is ultimately able to help narrow down your hardware choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Useful link on [Article covering best Drawing Tablets][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-Bamboo-Capture-Tablet-CTH470/dp/B005HGBEZ2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Artist15-6-Drawing-Graphics-Battery-Free-Pressure/dp/B077PCCC7R?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAIA3UEVTLIG7AIKFA&amp;tag=thearcsgui07-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B077PCCC7R&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.thearchitectsguide.com/blog/best-drawing-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33657" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9105" RevisionGUID="313f2cf1-fca0-4920-a5a8-aea694da89dc" CreationDate="2018-11-15T02:03:15.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10096" RevisionGUID="52a7c05b-d5f9-4ea0-a11c-5d0a31e94b03" CreationDate="2018-11-15T10:53:24.833" UserId="7030" Text="Basically searching for [DoubleSight DS-10UT][1] but bigger (13 inches seems ideal).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB **only**, ideally signal and power in single cable. No&#xD;&#xA;   HDMI/DVI/DSUB + USB, USB+Power is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen without additional cables&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 2.0 compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - VESA ([Adapter][2] is acceptable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside of DoubleSight, which is almost perfect aside of small size, I can't find device fitting all points. There is bunch of cool new devices from [ASUS][3] and similar, but touchscreen is rare and USB 3/USB C very common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of USB graphic adapters and horrible ways of abusing tablets, but simplicity is preffered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.doublesight.com/shop/product.asp?idx=139&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.doublesight.com/shop/product.asp?idx=73&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/Monitors/Portable-Products/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33660" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10096" RevisionGUID="52a7c05b-d5f9-4ea0-a11c-5d0a31e94b03" CreationDate="2018-11-15T10:53:24.833" UserId="7030" Text="USB 2.0 touchscreen monitor 10'' to 15''" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33661" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10096" RevisionGUID="52a7c05b-d5f9-4ea0-a11c-5d0a31e94b03" CreationDate="2018-11-15T10:53:24.833" UserId="7030" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10097" RevisionGUID="8007c1a4-ea62-4cf9-84e1-57703aecb804" CreationDate="2018-11-15T13:26:28.557" UserId="9587" Text="I think what you are looking for is called &quot;USB Type-C splitter&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that those things do exist, they are just not common yet and I'm not sure if you would be able to use both of the ports for data transmission, but at least you should be able to listen to music over type-c headphones and charge at the same time, as per the item description.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/MChoice-Capsule-Modeling-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B07H151Y8X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/2-1-C-USB-3-1-AUX/32917688534.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33663" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10096" RevisionGUID="c9719f08-2658-4b31-90b7-e883a5fa5ab3" CreationDate="2018-11-15T14:12:31.633" UserId="7030" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="Basically searching for [DoubleSight DS-10UT][1] but bigger (13 inches seems ideal).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB **only**, ideally signal and power in single cable. No&#xD;&#xA;   HDMI/DVI/DSUB + USB, USB+Power is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen without additional cables&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB 2.0 compatible. USB 3 device backward compatible with 2, but at lower fps/resolution is still ok.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - VESA ([Adapter][2] is acceptable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside of DoubleSight, which is almost perfect aside of small size, I can't find device fitting all points. There is bunch of cool new devices from [ASUS][3] and similar, but touchscreen is rare and USB 3/USB C very common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aware of USB graphic adapters and horrible ways of abusing tablets, but simplicity is preffered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.doublesight.com/shop/product.asp?idx=139&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.doublesight.com/shop/product.asp?idx=73&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/Monitors/Portable-Products/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10098" RevisionGUID="1ffdfcab-4a41-46ed-a05e-8d5a4cb0193b" CreationDate="2018-11-15T14:20:45.823" UserId="9587" Text="A development laptop definitely needs to have an SSD and a decent CPU, which is why I would suggest you to discard your list and take a look at 3 families of laptops: Asus VivoBook, Lenovo ThinkPad and Dell Inspiron.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many models that are cheaper than those that you listed and more suitable for development, like these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS VivoBook S510UN-EH76 - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234838&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lenovo Laptop ThinkPad E580 - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834850555&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Inspiron 15 5000 - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIADYY7BN9241&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, why these laptops? All of the three models have what you will need for development - an i7-8550u CPU that is 22% faster than the last gen CPU's (i7-7500u) and also has 4 cores and 8 threads, compared to 2 cores and 4 threads of last gen mobile CPU's, which will speed up multithreaded applications and multitasking even more, and all of these models have a 256GB SSD that would be more than enough for most of development, as you would have even enough space to run a full android ROM build system that requires about 70 to 100 GB of disk space, if you wished.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My personal choice would be the ASUS VivoBook, as it has, besides i7-8550u CPU and 256 GB SSD, also a 1 TB HDD drive (which you could of course upgrade to a larger 2 TB HDD drive or to a second SATA SSD), a dedicated GPU (not very much useful for development, but you would be able to run more demanding graphical applications that on the Intel GPU) and two RAM slots, which should allow you to upgrade it to 32 GB of RAM in the future! And I'm also using ASUS laptop myself and I can say that I'm quite satisfied with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ASUS VivoBook S510UN-EH76][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now what I wouldn't recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LG Laptops - last time I heard of them was that LG made cheapo laptops with low build quality and haven't really heard any recommendations about them, as opposed to Lenovo's, ASUS and Dell's of which I have heard good reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony VAIO - maybe this was just my bad experience, but **AVOID THOSE LAPTOPS**. I once had a ~2000$ laptop from Sony and all I can say is that experience was ABSOLUTELY terrible - the manufacturer just ditched support right as those laptops left the factory, all of the drivers had terrible issues like memory leaks, BSODs, hanging the system and not working properly (like Wi-Fi limiting to 5kbps untill I installed separate drivers), the manufacturer didn't respond to any customers of a 2000$ laptop, the performance was subpar and it had even less driver support in UNIX system. I even had to reflash the BIOS after an unsuccessful Linux installation as the BIOS wouldn't respond to anything. Their business model was to sell you the laptop and then pay $$$ for support, as it had a &quot;conveniently&quot; preinstalled support app and even a physical &quot;support&quot; button that would try to redirect you to contact their service center. Again, this was my experience and that laptop is now 4 years old, so things might have changed, but you should still take it into consideration)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBEUy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33665" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10072" RevisionGUID="93a4b04c-0d41-4c99-a074-eca58b36f666" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:23:40.090" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="b550798e-687f-48bf-95b0-dd3ecb5c164d" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:27:27.847" UserId="10169" Text="I'm seeking for a special type of additional keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need a pool of 20-30 fully programmable keys on a couple (or more) of 'shifts'. USB connector. Black color.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched for POS keyboard and found something like the attached one, but maybe there are more suitable types or models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advise something similar, but **not** gaming keyboard. And the budget is important too, the cheaper one is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4w5S.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33668" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="b550798e-687f-48bf-95b0-dd3ecb5c164d" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:27:27.847" UserId="10169" Text="Look-like POS keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33669" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="b550798e-687f-48bf-95b0-dd3ecb5c164d" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:27:27.847" UserId="10169" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33670" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10035" RevisionGUID="6b71a369-227d-451d-8cb6-f39434b15931" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:46:28.013" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33673" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10040" RevisionGUID="685d4976-d70c-425e-82b2-f7b5a880736f" CreationDate="2018-11-15T15:55:25.143" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:241,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Mark&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33676" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10049" RevisionGUID="81ffd055-9981-43eb-a400-daab02cd337d" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:02:05.533" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Alpha3031&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10101" RevisionGUID="99a063ff-e87a-454b-917f-15460f44ddbf" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:14:52.287" UserId="10170" Text="I am looking for a cheap x86 machine for learning OpenStack and other crap and I was wondering if such a system exists. The system should meet the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Under 100EUR including the price of RAM and &quot;HDD&quot; and VAT for items from outside EU if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* Compactable with [ironic][1]&#xD;&#xA;* Must be able to run headless.&#xD;&#xA;* Must be able to run non-custom Linux distributions and OpenBSD preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that there might be some other talks how to achieve what I want, if so, please paste me the URL to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.openstack.org/ironic/latest/admin/drivers.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33678" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10101" RevisionGUID="99a063ff-e87a-454b-917f-15460f44ddbf" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:14:52.287" UserId="10170" Text="Cheapest x86 machine with remote power mgmt?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33679" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10101" RevisionGUID="99a063ff-e87a-454b-917f-15460f44ddbf" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:14:52.287" UserId="10170" Text="&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10101" RevisionGUID="f8ec6241-f864-4ead-b3fc-90e2b267fbc3" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:21:59.993" UserId="10170" Comment="added min memory" Text="I am looking for a cheap x86 machine for learning OpenStack and other crap and I was wondering if such a system exists. The system should meet the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Under 100EUR including the price of RAM and &quot;HDD&quot; and VAT for items from outside EU if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* RAM &gt;= 2 GB (if price a bit higher, would like to have 4GB RAM).&#xD;&#xA;* Compactable with [ironic][1]&#xD;&#xA;* Must be able to run headless.&#xD;&#xA;* Must be able to run non-custom Linux distributions and OpenBSD preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that there might be some other talks how to achieve what I want, if so, please paste me the URL to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.openstack.org/ironic/latest/admin/drivers.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10103" RevisionGUID="405c1845-40a8-49df-bb7f-3e54d3855b08" CreationDate="2018-11-15T17:28:02.757" UserId="9587" Text="Are you looking for new or used?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest new x86 PC's you can get without monitor from somewhat known brands are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UP Core - https://up-shop.org/up-core/271-up-core.html&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;1-4 GB RAM, 16-64 GB eMMC storage, Intel Atom X5 Z8350, 99$USD for cheapest options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Computer Stick VivoStick - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883221244&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;2 GB RAM, 32 GB eMMC, Intel Atom X5 Z8350, 119$USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you can shop for prebuilt Celeron systems on AliExpress, since there are plenty of options and you can also pick what hardware will be installed (RAM, SSD, CPU):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;XCY Pocket Mini PC - https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/XCY-Intel-Celeron-1007U-10/32859512422.html&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;2 GB RAM, 16 GB SSD, Intel Celeron 1007U, 92$USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mini PC Celeron J1900 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-PC-Celeron-J1900-Quad-Core-Windows-10-Dual-LAN-2-COM-Fanless-Mini-Computer-Celeron/32839489621.html&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;2GB RAM, 30 GB SSD, Intel Celeron N2810, 104$USD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than those options some used laptop might have more power in sub-100 price range, but you would need to choose carefully." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="b91c07e9-6014-4cc8-8c27-f70d9b4f6ba0" CreationDate="2018-11-15T18:07:44.417" UserId="10171" Text="I just got a new PC at work (HP Z2 with Win10 x64), but for legacy product support I need to maintain a legacy machine (Dell Optiplex 9010) with Windows 7 x64 and x86 as well. IT was having issues getting drivers for Win7 x86 and x64 for the new PC, so dual-booting isn't an option. So I need some sort of switching mechanism to go back and fourth and use the same keyboard. mouse, and monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Traditionally, I would assume I'd use a KVM switch and be done with it. But I was thinking it'd be cool to get new monitors with DisplayPort 1.2 so I can daisy-chain my monitors and reduce cable clutter. As it is, I'm an embedded software engineer, so I've got plenty of loose wires and my desk will go from clean to [this][1] in a day if I'm not careful. But then in doing my research, with the rise of USB 3.0 and whatnot, it seems like KVM switches are giving way to display over USB. I'm seeing DisplayLink thrown around as well. I'm not sure how much can really be displayed over USB and how many monitors it'll really support and if I'm still limited by (or dependent on) my graphics card at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not opposed to hardware upgrades (monitors, graphics card, etc). I actually need to replace one of my monitors, so I may as well replace both and get matching ones, I currently have two Dell P2411H monitors. The New PC has a NVIDIA Quadro P400 inside, old one has an AMD Radeon HD7570 (which I'm not opposed to upgrading if needed). But now I'm even seeing that DisplayLink operates over plain old USB2.0, I was thinking I needed to add a USB 3.0 card to the old PC to make it work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not doing anything graphics-intensive, I don't need 8K video and a monster graphics card and whatnot. Mostly trying to reduce cable-clutter as much as possible. Any help is appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biggest_ball_of_twine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33684" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="b91c07e9-6014-4cc8-8c27-f70d9b4f6ba0" CreationDate="2018-11-15T18:07:44.417" UserId="10171" Text="USB dock or KVM switch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33685" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="b91c07e9-6014-4cc8-8c27-f70d9b4f6ba0" CreationDate="2018-11-15T18:07:44.417" UserId="10171" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33686" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="72b687ce-2357-4cd7-b4e0-14357f912fb8" CreationDate="2018-11-15T19:00:10.000" UserId="10171" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10171,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;audiFanatic&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33687" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="b1411f89-516a-4454-a723-8d8bdc5bd668" CreationDate="2018-11-15T20:15:35.180" UserId="10171" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10171,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;audiFanatic&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10105" RevisionGUID="49659221-5c5b-41fa-a866-2c8fa14f3758" CreationDate="2018-11-15T20:36:19.250" UserId="9587" Text="5760x1200 is 6,912,000 pixels, which is 1 billion less pixels than true 4k resolution (3840×2160, 8,294,400 pixels), so 4k framerates could be comparable to 5760x1200 framerates (but take it with a grain of salt, as for ultrawide resolutions like 5760x1200 the GPU would need more memory to load textures).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it might be worth to get two GTX 1080 Ti and use them in SLI - according to benchmark they will outperform 2080 Ti for almost the same cost:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiK0bomLrvM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is unless you want to throw money and get two 2080 Ti in SLI - nothing would beat it, but you would spend $1000 more for a marginal increase in performance (and a chance of getting a faulty GPU, since Nvidia's 20xx series were having a lot of troubles and bad chips).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should also consider upgrading your RAM and SSD to max out your rig performance, to something like this Intel Optane in RAID 0 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167440 for storage and at least 32 GB of RAM either at 4133MHz and 17 CAS latency like this G.SKILL F4-4133C17Q-32GTZR https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232677 or this 4700MHz Corsair CMW16GX4M2K4700C19 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236447 and also investing in custom professional liquid cooling for your rig, as this will allow you to OC your GPU's and CPU even more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10106" RevisionGUID="8b866538-5f6a-4960-923c-737d85237dfe" CreationDate="2018-11-16T06:07:31.233" UserId="10135" Text="Oh, wow, you found the right person to ask.  Because I spend ~14 hours today, trying to get DisplayLink to work with 4 additional monitors over USB 2.0.  So I can tell you the experience firsthand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing I'll point out is, that DisplayLink is fairly slow at multiple monitors.  So my Ultra HD monitor loads much quicker over DisplayLink, than two 1024x768 monitors.  Over USB 2.0, the first .4 seconds of motion the response is good, after that there's about 0.15 second lag (e.g., if I'm dragging a window, I often overshoot).  It seems that the cache to update the image gets full.  Even if the other window is blank, and doesn't change at all.  The performance over USB 3.0 is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, two things to keep in mind.  One, if all you're doing is writing code (or anything that doesn't erase a bunch of pixels at once), then you should be fine.  And two, the difference between 2 monitors and 4 monitors is negligible.  It seems the main cause of lag is for it to figure out which monitor to send it to, versus simply sending the image directly to the monitor.  Considering the uHD performed that much better, I think tomorrow I'll spend figuring out how to make Windows treat the multiple monitors that I have as a single monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now, the good side.  The best part of DisplayLink, is their support for old hardware.  I have a generic graphics card from 2003 or so, and DL now has a version that works with it.  I have tried several different companies online, until I saw someone sell a &quot;will work guaranteed&quot; adapter online for $500.  It turns out their have direct access to DL's developers (in UK, I believe) -- so they corresponded with them, DL sent some diagnostic software, and lo and behold -- in a few months they came out with a version that works for my graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the reliability of DisplayLink is simply amazing.  I run DL software on 6 computers in my family, and there was one that would give black screens occasionally.  They sent one diagnostic software, which generated a report and I sent it back to them.  They sent another diagnostic tool, another report, and they told me I had to send them back the screen, which they programmed with another firmware, and mailed back to me.  Bottom line, DL " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10106" RevisionGUID="d2e4f973-dd9b-4c49-a018-70239666edf0" CreationDate="2018-11-16T06:38:47.680" UserId="10135" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="Oh, wow, you found the right person to ask.  Because I spend ~14 hours today, trying to get DisplayLink to work with 4 additional monitors over USB 2.0.  So I can tell you the experience firsthand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first thing I'll point out is, that DisplayLink is fairly slow at multiple monitors.  So my Ultra HD monitor loads much quicker over DisplayLink, than two 1024x768 monitors.  Over USB 2.0, the first .4 seconds of motion the response is good, after that there's about 0.15 second lag (e.g., if I'm dragging a window, I often overshoot).  It seems that the cache to update the image gets full.  Even if the other window is blank, and doesn't change at all.  The performance over USB 3.0 is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, two things to keep in mind.  One, if all you're doing is writing code (or anything that doesn't erase a bunch of pixels at once), then you should be fine.  And two, the difference between 2 monitors and 4 monitors is negligible.  It seems the main cause of lag is for it to figure out which monitor to send it to, versus simply sending the image directly to the monitor.  Considering the uHD performed that much better, I think tomorrow I'll spend figuring out how to make Windows treat the multiple monitors that I have as a single monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And now, the good side.  The best part of DisplayLink, is their support for old hardware.  I have a generic graphics card from 2003 or so, and DL now has a version that works with it.  I have tried several different companies online, until I saw someone sell a &quot;will work guaranteed&quot; adapter online for $500.  It turns out their have direct access to DL's developers (in UK, I believe) -- so they corresponded with them, DL sent some diagnostic software, and lo and behold -- in a few months they came out with a version that works for my graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the reliability of DisplayLink is simply amazing.  I run DL software on 6 computers in my family, and there was one that would give black screens occasionally.  They sent one diagnostic software, which generated a report and I sent it back to them.  They sent another diagnostic tool, another report, and they told me I had to send them back the screen, which they programmed with another firmware, and mailed back to me.  Bottom line, DL is committed to reliability, and in a more complicated setup, I'd choose it over KVM any day." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33694" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10108" RevisionGUID="f9c871b7-6c4b-438f-8669-02f4cddfa29a" CreationDate="2018-11-16T09:36:19.077" UserId="9587" Text="It appears to me that SAF Tehnika J0SSAP60 is exactly what you are looking for - https://www.saftehnika.com/en/ebandspectrumcompact&#xA;&#xA;It is a has a bandwidth of 56 to 67 GHz, but you would need to get a quote from the manufacturer to buy it.&#xA;&#xA;[SAF Tehnika J0SSAP60][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.saftehnika.com/files/widget_dark/14665148283171.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10109" RevisionGUID="efb908e1-7826-44ff-8221-3fef01bb6427" CreationDate="2018-11-16T10:31:25.630" UserId="9587" Text="There is a UGreen USB-C dock, but it doesn't have a headphone jack:&#xA;&#xA;https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32821301992.html&#xA;&#xA;I have used a few UGreen products, such as DP cables, USB switcher and USB network card and they seem quite reliable and AliExpress rating of this product is high." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10112" RevisionGUID="1950c2aa-37a2-4eff-b2f7-8c2ad93d84a3" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:04:47.523" UserId="10177" Text="I want to set up a special training room in the gym I work for, but being mostly a software guy, hardware is sometimes a mystery to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is the following: have 3+ displays showing videos of how should exercises be performed, and have people in the class wearing Bluetooth-enabled heart-rate monitors and show their heart-rates on a separate display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering what the best hardware for this would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I've done a lot of research, and it seems that one computer **can only support up to ~12 Bluetooth devices** connected at once. It seems I could have multiple Bluetooth adapters connected to one computer, but I couldn't find any consensus: could I then connect 12 Bluetooth devices for each USB adapter? I have no OS constraints at this point, but have a preference for MacOS or Linux. Would that work with either?&#xD;&#xA; 2. I'd need to connect to ~3 displays to stream the exercise videos. Each display should show 3 separate videos. Since there are many exercises and they could be paired in any way, this means that each screen is going to be playing 3 videos at the time, min. resolution 720p. Assuming that I can't change that, what kind of hardware would I need for something like that? Would I need to add additional external GPUs for instance?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, these are the only two requirements: OS and even budget (within reason) is not an issue. Any pointers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10112" RevisionGUID="1950c2aa-37a2-4eff-b2f7-8c2ad93d84a3" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:04:47.523" UserId="10177" Text="Connecting 25+ bluetooth devices and 3+ displays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10112" RevisionGUID="1950c2aa-37a2-4eff-b2f7-8c2ad93d84a3" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:04:47.523" UserId="10177" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33709" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10112" RevisionGUID="9e639292-5efc-4c7f-a924-a23014c335ee" CreationDate="2018-11-16T14:35:15.433" UserId="10135" Comment="Added an appropriate tag." Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33710" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10112" RevisionGUID="9e639292-5efc-4c7f-a924-a23014c335ee" CreationDate="2018-11-16T14:35:15.433" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 10177 edit id of 775" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33714" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10115" RevisionGUID="5bf80f5e-7e4d-4e02-8907-addc550dc36d" CreationDate="2018-11-16T19:56:24.163" UserId="1210" Text="I have a [Dell U2415][1] 24.1&quot; (16:10) display and I've very pleased with it, except this morning I found out one of the kids hit it with a pan and cracked its display panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I need to buy a new computer monitor and I was thinking of buying the exact same model, only I've stumbled upon this [LG 29UM69G-B][2] 29&quot; (21:9) display at pretty much the same price and I'm tempted to buy it instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've compared the specs of both monitors found them to be equivalent in most respects except the LG would give me a much bigger desktop at the same pixel size (~0.26cm if my calculations are right).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only concern is that the LG seems too cheap? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is - Am I missing something in the comparison between the two displays? Is there some disadvantage in the LG display that explains its lower price compared to other 29&quot; displays?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2415/pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM69G-B-ultrawide-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33715" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10115" RevisionGUID="5bf80f5e-7e4d-4e02-8907-addc550dc36d" CreationDate="2018-11-16T19:56:24.163" UserId="1210" Text="Please help me choose between this Dell 24.1&quot; 16:10 display and this LG 29 21:9 display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33716" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10115" RevisionGUID="5bf80f5e-7e4d-4e02-8907-addc550dc36d" CreationDate="2018-11-16T19:56:24.163" UserId="1210" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33717" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10115" RevisionGUID="3679af5f-61a5-451d-8bba-3e3b2854dceb" CreationDate="2018-11-16T20:29:58.810" UserId="1210" Comment="edited title" Text="Please help me choose between this Dell 24.1&quot; 16:10 display and this LG 29&quot; 21:9 display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10117" RevisionGUID="b691e19d-0557-4d03-97b5-92a61be0e7e8" CreationDate="2018-11-16T22:11:18.717" UserId="6047" Text="The main difference between the LG and the Dell monitor is that the LG monitor has an &quot;Ultra-Ultra-wide&quot; aspect ratio, meaning that you will have a lot more horizontal real estate. I've heard of 21:9 aspect ratio monitors feeling like the real estate of two normal computer monitors which might be a plus or minus to you depending on your usage scenarios. The LG also has a higher refresh rate at 75 hz which technically makes it slightly better for gaming, though most people find 60 to be enough to suit their tastes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Addressing your concern for price, I think that the Dell monitor is a bit over priced. I find that certain big name brands in particular tend to over price their products in comparison to others that have similar specs. I believe that this is the case here at a [$400 list price][1], which is what 2K and [4k monitors can go for][2]. In my experience, DELL products, in general, tend to be either hit or miss when it comes to good value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Between your choices in a purely objective sense, the LG monitor will probably be of better value as it has a pixel density of 2.76 (+33% megapixels), has a slightly higher refresh rate (+25% Hz), and also supports [AMD FreeSync][3] (this is an anti screen tearing technology see link for more details, I believe you need an AMD GPU for this to apply).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-U2415-24-Inch-1920-Monitor/dp/B00NZTKOQI&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Rk98TW/aoc-monitor-u2879vf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/free-sync" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33737" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="ec189100-9728-4693-b7b4-db2cdd4885be" CreationDate="2018-11-17T06:11:13.097" UserId="40" Comment="add Acer S230HL" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33738" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="bd671b59-8c8e-4db5-9180-3fee96c4b325" CreationDate="2018-11-17T06:22:02.600" UserId="40" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a ~24-inch computer monitor that is as light as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer monitor just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 resolution or higher&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI/DVI/VGA/USB/display port/etc. are all fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricewise I don't have any hard limit: the main criteria is really the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bestbuy doesn't have any option to filter by weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have crossposted the question at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://qr.ae/TUhSxp&#xD;&#xA;- https://redd.it/9xu713&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33739" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="86639741-05f4-4049-b925-2b48bc68cd7e" CreationDate="2018-11-17T06:44:13.953" UserId="40" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a ~24-inch computer monitor that is as light as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer monitor just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 resolution or higher&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI/DVI/VGA/USB/display port/etc. are all fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricewise I don't have any hard limit: the main criteria is really the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bestbuy doesn't have any option to filter by weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have crossposted the question at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://qr.ae/TUhSxp&#xD;&#xA;- https://redd.it/9xu713&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3824037/ultralight-inch-computer-monitor.html#21493048&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33740" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="86639741-05f4-4049-b925-2b48bc68cd7e" CreationDate="2018-11-17T06:44:13.953" UserId="40" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="8974ed93-f1d0-4530-81a4-f65211b3e2bc" CreationDate="2018-11-17T19:34:12.947" UserId="40" Comment="added 219 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (=  5.77 lbs)** with stand, 5.33 lb without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33746" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="cc3a35c3-ff99-46d3-882d-6299e7d93c7b" CreationDate="2018-11-18T05:19:11.007" UserId="40" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (=  5.77 lbs)** with stand, 5.33 lb without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33747" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="0f92ba18-a484-4afe-a1d0-268cba2d6126" CreationDate="2018-11-18T07:02:00.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33748" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="69357a62-d6ff-4fee-b69f-536de0062e91" CreationDate="2018-11-18T08:02:05.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="569d4ad2-ab6d-43ed-97ec-6c5ad1415a0a" CreationDate="2018-11-19T01:37:22.140" UserId="4933" Text="I currently have a mini tower containing an SSD, one 2TB HDD and one 3TB backup HDD. Thanks to this Stack site, I recently installed an [Arctic Freezer 11 LP](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-11-LP-Pre-applied/dp/B0037AKXKM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525996734&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler+low+profile) for a CPU fan, which is now the only fan in my system apart from the one on my Corsair VS550 PSU (which faces backwards, towards the rest of the components). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like I need an exhaust fan in there just to offset the high temperatures of my drives, the SSD in particular:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I know very little about fans, so I'm unsure whether a back exhaust fan would be installed to the inside or the outside of my mini tower's back grill. If it's the former, then as well as fitting in the case's back grill size of around 10 CM/3.5 inches, the exhaust fan in question would also need to have a depth of less than one inch to prevent it colliding with the Freezer 11 CPU cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To add to the conundrum, I'm on a low income, so the cheaper the proposed fan is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: I'm looking for the cheapest, quietest low-profile exhaust fan that will fit in my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would really appreciate some help with this one, I understand there's a lot to consider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XUPS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33762" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="569d4ad2-ab6d-43ed-97ec-6c5ad1415a0a" CreationDate="2018-11-19T01:37:22.140" UserId="4933" Text="What is the cheapest, quietest low-profile exhaust fan that will fit in my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33763" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="569d4ad2-ab6d-43ed-97ec-6c5ad1415a0a" CreationDate="2018-11-19T01:37:22.140" UserId="4933" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="3eafc898-fe7a-418c-a21c-da422a1562bc" CreationDate="2018-11-19T02:03:31.160" UserId="4933" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="I currently have a mini tower containing an SSD, one 2TB HDD and one 3TB backup HDD. Thanks to this Stack site, I recently installed an [Arctic Freezer 11 LP](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-11-LP-Pre-applied/dp/B0037AKXKM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525996734&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler+low+profile) for a CPU cooler, which is now the only cooler in my system apart from the one on my Corsair VS550 PSU (which faces backwards, towards the rest of the components). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like I need an exhaust fan in there just to offset the high temperatures of my drives, the SSD in particular:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I know very little about coolers, so I'm unsure whether a back exhaust fan would be installed to the inside or the outside of my mini tower's back grill. If it's the former, then as well as fitting in the case's back grill size of around 10 CM/3.5 inches, the exhaust fan in question would also need to have a depth of less than one inch to prevent it colliding with the Freezer 11 CPU cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To add to the conundrum, I'm on a low income, so the cheaper the proposed fan is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: I'm looking for the cheapest, quietest low-profile exhaust cooler that will fit in my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would really appreciate some help with this one, I understand there's a lot to consider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XUPS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33765" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="3eafc898-fe7a-418c-a21c-da422a1562bc" CreationDate="2018-11-19T02:03:31.160" UserId="4933" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="What is the cheapest, quietest low-profile exhaust cooler that will fit in my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="e74eb978-178c-4fbb-88f5-caabb4e5ac58" CreationDate="2018-11-19T04:26:07.713" UserId="40" Comment="added 339 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 4.56 lb (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (=  5.77 lbs)** with stand, 5.33 lb without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="8649bd6b-0411-400a-b74c-06b8d0bd4936" CreationDate="2018-11-19T04:30:39.360" UserId="4933" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I currently have a mini tower containing an SSD, one 2TB HDD and one 3TB backup HDD. Thanks to this Stack site, I recently installed an [Arctic Freezer 11 LP](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-11-LP-Pre-applied/dp/B0037AKXKM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525996734&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler+low+profile) for a CPU cooler, which is now the only fan in my system apart from the one on my Corsair VS550 PSU (which faces backwards, towards the rest of the components). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel like I need an exhaust fan in there just to offset the high temperatures of my drives, the SSD in particular:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I know very little about coolers, so I'm unsure whether a back exhaust fan would be installed to the inside or the outside of my mini tower's back grill. If it's the former, then as well as fitting in the case's back grill size of around 10 CM/3.5 inches, the exhaust fan in question would also need to have a depth of less than one inch to prevent it colliding with the Freezer 11 CPU cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To add to the conundrum, I'm on a low income, so the cheaper the proposed fan is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: I'm looking for the cheapest, quietest low-profile exhaust cooler that will fit in my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would really appreciate some help with this one, I understand there's a lot to consider.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XUPS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10123" RevisionGUID="a1a770db-9825-4dae-b794-d5de8c395a41" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:27:57.983" UserId="7245" Text="So recently I bought a second hand 5.1 surround sound set for the bedroom. As it turns out random people online can't always be trusted and one of the outputs on the amplifier didn't work. The set in question is the SCS-140. Seeing as I have all the speakers already bought I don't feel like purchasing an entirely new set so I've been searching for a new amplifier. I came across a few but most didn't have the connectors required. My set has the clamps to clamp the cables in place, not the plug-in connectors. Please note that I don't know much about electronics or soldering to begin with so I wouldn't know where to begin soldering connectors to the cables. Would my best bet be to just buy an entirely new set or is there a good alternate amplifier (preferably with integrated subwoofer) to replace the one with the broken output?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should add that the system will be hooked up to my desktop or my raspberry pi (which in both cases means an aux or digital audio connection). I should also note that I do have a sound card purchased for this system which I'm connecting it to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqesY.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10123" RevisionGUID="a1a770db-9825-4dae-b794-d5de8c395a41" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:27:57.983" UserId="7245" Text="Replacement bedroom amplifier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10123" RevisionGUID="a1a770db-9825-4dae-b794-d5de8c395a41" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:27:57.983" UserId="7245" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10124" RevisionGUID="5034726c-09ea-4b32-8c42-79ae2df35126" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:44:58.997" UserId="7245" Text="Coming from someone with a lot of fans in his system ill share what my experience with them is. The amount of fans is not nearly as important as a good air flow. You need a good way for air to get into you case and (what most people forget) you need a way for air to be blown out of your case. It would be counterproductive to get the one but not the other and as you stated you only have a fan on your CPU and PS this is a bare minimal of fans. (Are you sure your case does not have any fans?). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My advice for you would be to see where the air goes now and how you want to get rid of said air. If your desktop is placed inside a desk, hugging the back wall or tucked in a corner be aware that that seriously limits the air flow out of your case. If I was in your situation I would place it in an air flow rich place and not on the floor (which attracts a lot of dust). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**If you want to buy only a single fan**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Place a fan in the front of your case (if your case allows that) blowing into your pc letting the hot air be taken from this flow to the back of the case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**If you want to buy two fans**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Place a fan in the front of your case blowing inwards and place a fan at the back blowing outwards. This would allow cool air to be mixed with the hot air your PS and CPU fan are blowing into the case. The fan at the back would collect this mixed air and blow it out the back since the fan in the front causes the air to be blown to the back of your case. (Dont place it close to the back wall though!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For brand recomendations, personally I really like the be quiet! series and the Silent wings 3 are also quite cheap ~20/25 euro's. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Oh and also, cyber monday is comming up ;) )" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33775" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10094" RevisionGUID="34528633-af3b-4bb3-b96e-49ae90232cd6" CreationDate="2018-11-19T17:04:38.227" UserId="6047" Comment="cannot" Text="Personally, the people that I know of that engage in graphic design typically use and recommend [**drawing pen tablets**][1] like these rather than consumer touchscreens, particularly due to the fact touchscreens do not have good (if at all) pressure sensitivity. These drawing pen tablets do not seem to have any lag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also [**specialized drawing tablets**, on which you can draw directly on][2], however; they tend to be very pricey compared to cheaper &quot;dumb&quot; input pen tablets (like the wacom drawing tablet specified in the link above) that I see most beginners start with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also not an artist and cannot speak to the durability or usability of these drawing pen tablets. As a result I am not comfortable directly recommending a specific tablet because I cannot speak to its efficacy. I hope this answer is ultimately able to help narrow down your hardware choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Useful link on [Article covering best Drawing Tablets][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Wacom-Bamboo-Capture-Tablet-CTH470/dp/B005HGBEZ2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Artist15-6-Drawing-Graphics-Battery-Free-Pressure/dp/B077PCCC7R?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAIA3UEVTLIG7AIKFA&amp;tag=thearcsgui07-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B077PCCC7R&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.thearchitectsguide.com/blog/best-drawing-tablets" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33776" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="9890" RevisionGUID="99b0306a-96b5-4d38-9108-535dab273a36" CreationDate="2018-11-19T21:00:36.987" UserId="-1" Comment="80" />
  <row Id="33781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10125" RevisionGUID="95fdb365-a756-4c86-9ca2-f8425e25f667" CreationDate="2018-11-20T14:19:14.753" UserId="6328" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a laptop where I can program with CUDA ( so Nvidia is a must ). At the same time I want to make use of Optimus technology. Hence the processors should have a dedicated grapics chip as well. So does the Intel 8th generation already have inbuilt graphics chip? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am asking this because none of the laptops specifications, that also boasts a Nvidia, specifies inbuilt graphics chip like Intel UHD 620. Under the graphics options, only one graphics chip ( Nvidia ) is seen and not two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which laptop is preferable, a U or a HQ or MQ? Is 8th Generation preferable over 7th Generation i7 ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the work is computer vision programming and matlab stuffs. So, high performance is a must. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The need of two different graphics chip is because, I have experienced that Nvidia itself requires substantial power and hence heats the notebook. In case only the inbuilt graphics card is used for small tasks such as movies etc, the fan should remain calm. Thats my hypothesis and do not know if its true or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggestions would be highly appreciatd.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33782" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10125" RevisionGUID="95fdb365-a756-4c86-9ca2-f8425e25f667" CreationDate="2018-11-20T14:19:14.753" UserId="6328" Text="Laptop for graphic programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33783" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10125" RevisionGUID="95fdb365-a756-4c86-9ca2-f8425e25f667" CreationDate="2018-11-20T14:19:14.753" UserId="6328" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33784" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9255" RevisionGUID="dd54d072-13df-4324-9e6a-e00cd445006a" CreationDate="2018-11-20T15:49:41.837" UserId="1921" Comment="added 266 characters in body" Text="[![portable logger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Columbus-Bluetooth-Driverless-waypoints-Compatible/dp/B001JJRBU8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - 51 channels MTK chipset with enhanced positioning system technology (up to 1.5m accuracy with EPS Technology&#xD;&#xA;  - Voice-Tag function with built-in microphone allows adding live voice labels to any waypoint&#xD;&#xA;  - MicroSD Slot with support up to 2GB* capacity (about 25,000,000 waypoints, more than 2 years) *NOTE: 1GB microSD card is optional in the package&#xD;&#xA;  - Push-To-Log (POI anchor key) enables you to mark a POI at any time&#xD;&#xA;Unique SPY mode allows continuous standby logging of more than one month &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Battery Life:&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation &amp; Track Log Mode: 13-15 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation Mode: 15-17 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Track log Mode: 18-24 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Spy Mode: 15- 30 days&#xD;&#xA;  - Full charge should take about 2 - 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;  - Beeping can not be turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;Which kind of beeping is it?&#xD;&#xA;Page 9 section 2 step 4 if it the over speed alarm use the software to configure the over speed alarm.  Setting it to max value should shut it off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0QuM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGUYe.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33785" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9255" RevisionGUID="fd0533be-1241-40eb-98bf-914cd2d64ca8" CreationDate="2018-11-20T15:56:45.927" UserId="1921" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="[![portable logger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Columbus-Bluetooth-Driverless-waypoints-Compatible/dp/B001JJRBU8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - 51 channels MTK chipset with enhanced positioning system technology (up to 1.5m accuracy with EPS Technology&#xD;&#xA;  - Voice-Tag function with built-in microphone allows adding live voice labels to any waypoint&#xD;&#xA;  - MicroSD Slot with support up to 2GB* capacity (about 25,000,000 waypoints, more than 2 years) *NOTE: 1GB microSD card is optional in the package&#xD;&#xA;  - Push-To-Log (POI anchor key) enables you to mark a POI at any time&#xD;&#xA;Unique SPY mode allows continuous standby logging of more than one month &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Battery Life:&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation &amp; Track Log Mode: 13-15 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation Mode: 15-17 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Track log Mode: 18-24 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Spy Mode: 15- 30 days&#xD;&#xA;  - Full charge should take about 2 - 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;  - Beeping can not be turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;http://www.cbgps.com/download/Columbus_V-900_User_Manual_V4.0_ENG.pdf&#xD;&#xA;Which kind of beeping is it?&#xD;&#xA;Page 9 section 2 step 4 if it the over speed alarm use the software to configure the over speed alarm.  Setting it to max value should shut it off.&#xD;&#xA;The max value is 300km/h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0QuM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGUYe.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9255" RevisionGUID="efe5443f-2d13-493b-a936-fa811e7f32d5" CreationDate="2018-11-20T16:04:39.963" UserId="1921" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="[![portable logger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Columbus-Bluetooth-Driverless-waypoints-Compatible/dp/B001JJRBU8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - 51 channels MTK chipset with enhanced positioning system technology (up to 1.5m accuracy with EPS Technology&#xD;&#xA;  - Voice-Tag function with built-in microphone allows adding live voice labels to any waypoint&#xD;&#xA;  - MicroSD Slot with support up to 2GB* capacity (about 25,000,000 waypoints, more than 2 years) *NOTE: 1GB microSD card is optional in the package&#xD;&#xA;  - Push-To-Log (POI anchor key) enables you to mark a POI at any time&#xD;&#xA;Unique SPY mode allows continuous standby logging of more than one month &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Battery Life:&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation &amp; Track Log Mode: 13-15 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Navigation Mode: 15-17 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Track log Mode: 18-24 hours&#xD;&#xA;  - Spy Mode: 15- 30 days&#xD;&#xA;  - Full charge should take about 2 - 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;  - Beeping can not be turned off. (This may not be true)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;http://www.cbgps.com/download/Columbus_V-900_User_Manual_V4.0_ENG.pdf&#xD;&#xA;Which kind of beeping is it?&#xD;&#xA;Page 9 section 2 step 4 if it the over speed alarm use the software to configure the over speed alarm.  Setting it to max value should shut it off.&#xD;&#xA;The max value is 300km/h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0QuM.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGUYe.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10063" RevisionGUID="45aa04ff-725a-45b1-8b51-6320eef51fcb" CreationDate="2018-11-20T18:24:10.600" UserId="6047" Comment="embedded link, minor sentence restructure for clarity" Text="I have an [HP Omen X laptop 17.3&quot;][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;E&quot; key came off as I was foolishly trying to remove to clean a spec of food underneath. In doing so, the plastic component which connects the key to the laptop broke and I need a replacement. Customer support only offers to replace the whole keyboard which seems quite excessive to me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the perimeter of the hole which allows the plastic to &quot;hook&quot; onto the laptop has broke.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where might one find a spare plastic &quot;foot&quot; for a particular laptop's keyboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-i7-7820HK-Processor-Solid-State-17-ap020nr/dp/B075XHLDHC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541969775&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=omen%20x%20laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFQDK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33788" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10063" RevisionGUID="45aa04ff-725a-45b1-8b51-6320eef51fcb" CreationDate="2018-11-20T18:24:10.600" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 60 edit id of 776" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10127" RevisionGUID="d42d05f5-3c03-4529-81c8-2941b89b12c5" CreationDate="2018-11-20T21:29:58.197" UserId="10193" Text="I'm working on a DIY camera gimbal project, and I came across the issue of finding adequate brushless DC motor that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has enough starting and holding torque to lift and stably hold a 5kg mass&#xD;&#xA; - Is fast enough to move that mass 1.25m/s&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably costs under £25 ($32)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked all over the internet on Amazon, Ebay, AliExpress, RS Components and more, but all I've found are things that have 5 times the specs I need, for 5 times the price, or things at £12 a piece but with half the specs. If there's some place I've missed, I'd really appreciate it if someone could help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33795" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10127" RevisionGUID="d42d05f5-3c03-4529-81c8-2941b89b12c5" CreationDate="2018-11-20T21:29:58.197" UserId="10193" Text="Bidirectional brushless DC motor with high starting and holding torque on the cheap" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33796" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10127" RevisionGUID="d42d05f5-3c03-4529-81c8-2941b89b12c5" CreationDate="2018-11-20T21:29:58.197" UserId="10193" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10128" RevisionGUID="afbf5e11-b169-44a6-ad83-ee9deb1c6b5c" CreationDate="2018-11-21T01:34:59.647" UserId="10198" Text="Like so many answers this answer comes with limitations that may not suit you.&#xD;&#xA;Limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Requires some minimal electronic skill&#xD;&#xA; 2. Reading and assembly required&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Onion Omega2+ $13 (or Omega2 $10) with a PowerDock $6 and $3 USB audio adapter all under $30. Download the Omega2 Project book Vol1 and find Chapter 5 (Audio projects) https://onion.io/downloads/omega2-project-book-vol1 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you are adventurous enough to take on this project you will find it very rewarding.&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Doc&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33798" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="cbbccd14-ba7d-4636-9c8c-cf7d136849b2" CreationDate="2018-11-21T04:03:35.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10129" RevisionGUID="be8f3815-e526-4756-bdef-c76b8a3c009f" CreationDate="2018-11-21T11:11:04.047" UserId="10162" Text="Asus RT-N66U Does have the same feature you are looking for.  &#xD;&#xA;I hope it will give you the same feeling as if you are downloading/uploading and seeding on your pc/laptop and moreover, it gives you more control over network.  &#xD;&#xA;following link contains more information about the router   &#xD;&#xA;[Asus RT-N66U][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/RTN66U/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="e1f148a7-008a-4850-a9c4-953a28f78a30" CreationDate="2018-11-21T19:07:07.833" UserId="22" Text="Looking for an MP3 player for a senior.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **ONLY** use case is &quot;turn on player on max volume, play 100% of mp3s in storage in default sequence until battery dies or turned off&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Features, in order of importance:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Built-in speaker with reasonable volume (absolutely required).** &#xD;&#xA;- At least 4GB memory. Support for SD Cards preferred as nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;- Decent play time (at least 4-6 hours per charge/battery). Does not matter if it requires recharging or changing batteries, but cannot be dependent on wall power fulltime.&#xD;&#xA;- EASY controls. Preferably simple, big buttons, does not require complex manipulation like &quot;press and hold for 2 seconds&quot; to power up.&#xD;&#xA;- Cost. Should be less than $50 and available in USA for shipping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Do not care about:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Specifics of power. Can be batteries or rechargeable. As long as doesn't require wall power during use.&#xD;&#xA;- Capacity/storage beyond 4GB. Nice to have but not needed.&#xD;&#xA;- Screen is not required. &#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth not required (actually prefer no BT as it drains battery)&#xD;&#xA;- Complex functionality. See &quot;Use Case&quot; above. No need to skip, random, forward, show playlist, have directories/playlists, configuration, etc... &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What have I Tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sansa Shaker. Used to be cheap but couldn't find for less than $100 on Amazon lately. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="e1f148a7-008a-4850-a9c4-953a28f78a30" CreationDate="2018-11-21T19:07:07.833" UserId="22" Text="Senior friendly MP3 player with speaker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="e1f148a7-008a-4850-a9c4-953a28f78a30" CreationDate="2018-11-21T19:07:07.833" UserId="22" Text="&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="4dfc084b-6cff-404c-aac1-1ccc15fa92d6" CreationDate="2018-11-22T00:24:11.267" UserId="3714" Text="I'm looking for a bluetooth headset which meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - primary use to talk on the phone, so audio quality must be good&#xD;&#xA; - wind cancelling, so if I'm riding a bike and talking on the phone, the other person will be able to understand what i'm saying&#xD;&#xA; - secondary use to interact with my phone (e.g. something like Google Assistant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For point #2 I currently have a wind cancelling headset (up to 19mph), but audio quality isn't that great - sometimes I have people tell me they can't hear me even when I'm in a quiet room and switching to the phone mic immediately resolves the issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Point #3 is also important with regards to being able to instantly interact with my phone.  My current headset I have to tap a button, give a voice command which causes it to connect to the phone (assuming it doesn't think I said &quot;cancel&quot; which happens about half the time) and then there is about a 10 second wait until it connects.  By this time whatever thought I wanted to record I am likely to have forgotten or the number of times it said &quot;cancel&quot; instead of connecting has made me abandon the attempt completely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Pixel Buds seem to have point #3, it appears they respond instantly and direct your audio to Google Assistant.  However, I have read mixed responses to whether they work in the wind and am thinking they may have issues on a bike at 20mph - although whether this is with *hearing* the other person or them hearing me is uncertain." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33816" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="4dfc084b-6cff-404c-aac1-1ccc15fa92d6" CreationDate="2018-11-22T00:24:11.267" UserId="3714" Text="wireless headset with instant response that works in wind" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33817" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="4dfc084b-6cff-404c-aac1-1ccc15fa92d6" CreationDate="2018-11-22T00:24:11.267" UserId="3714" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33818" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9921" RevisionGUID="4028d740-4191-4cd7-be48-f37aca26c406" CreationDate="2018-11-22T06:02:10.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33819" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="09ed38ae-16c3-44c6-9453-6e16da698db0" CreationDate="2018-11-22T10:02:35.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33823" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="5fa4aa4c-c8db-48c6-9e34-8017ef514fef" CreationDate="2018-11-22T19:02:25.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33824" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10127" RevisionGUID="515c048a-8836-4ee2-ab37-535809a76845" CreationDate="2018-11-22T20:58:01.973" UserId="10193" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I'm working on a DIY camera gimbal project, and I came across the issue of finding adequate brushless DC motor that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has enough starting and holding torque to lift and stably hold a 5kg mass when using a 60cm-length pulley&#xD;&#xA; - Is fast enough to move that mass 1.25m/s&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably costs under £25 ($32)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked all over the internet on Amazon, Ebay, AliExpress, RS Components and more, but all I've found are things that have 5 times the specs I need, for 5 times the price, or things at £12 a piece but with half the specs. If there's some place I've missed, I'd really appreciate it if someone could help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10137" RevisionGUID="20d23f72-0d13-44c0-8236-ebbc7964df4f" CreationDate="2018-11-23T00:59:18.947" UserId="181" Text="I use Abletone Live 10 with a fast computer and it was working well until I connected several MIDI drum machines (Roland 808, Roland 909). Then it started lagging because my ASIO driver does not have a good enough soundcard, presumably. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy? I presume it is my sound card that I need to upgrade. I have tried all the settings and the latency still appears when I connect the external instruments. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is good, I can spend at least 1000 USD. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10137" RevisionGUID="20d23f72-0d13-44c0-8236-ebbc7964df4f" CreationDate="2018-11-23T00:59:18.947" UserId="181" Text="Soundcard for Ableton Live with low latency" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10137" RevisionGUID="20d23f72-0d13-44c0-8236-ebbc7964df4f" CreationDate="2018-11-23T00:59:18.947" UserId="181" Text="&lt;music&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;&lt;midi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="170ed68f-f780-43e2-8b0b-97e60ecebab4" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:11:42.017" UserId="40" Comment="added 345 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 4.56 lb (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (=  5.77 lbs)** with stand, 5.33 lb without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33835" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="61d9562e-aac5-44cd-aa78-811fd426ae57" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:24:53.813" UserId="40" Comment="added 391 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 4.56 lb (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33836" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="900edecd-2e50-458d-a5d5-c1ae9d093592" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:35:29.673" UserId="40" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33837" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10138" RevisionGUID="8c05bcc3-4f68-4259-9828-a3ea99a43099" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:44:02.820" UserId="2059" Text="I've bought a new, high-performance, laptop&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Inspiron 15 Gaming 7577**, some basic specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Model**: The exact model number is 7577-92774&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Service Tag**: HG6D142, you can see the factory HW here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [Official Dell Support page - Configuration tab][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **BIOS**: Upgraded to the latest version (1.6.1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU**: Intel© Core™ i7-7700HQ - 7th gen. = Kaby Lake&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM**: 16GB single memory stick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU**: I disabled the integrated in the OS, and have NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 with Max-Q Design and 6GB GDDR5 active&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Network**: The laptop is connected to my router via Cat.6 ethernet cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Display**: UHD 3840 x 2160, 15.6 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System**: Linux Mint 19&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question is all about storage, current configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **SSD #1**: M.2, NVMe PCI-Express, Toshiba, 512GB, KXG50ZNV512G (original part)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **SSD #2**: 2.5 inches, SATA III, Samsung, 250GB, 850 EVO (replaced HDD with this temporarily)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In spite of Dell's recommendation, I intend to replace both of these SSD drives. The question is not about if to replace them; it is about what to replace them for. I am an IT guy and use my computer 12 hours a day. I literally go for the best overall value and / or performance if the price limit allows it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price limit for both of these drives should be in total 10000 CZK ~= 385 EUR or 440 USD. I live in the Czech Republic, please take it into account and test in the beginning if the drive you are suggesting is available on our market, you can use for instance this page, which is my favorite: https://www.czc.cz/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer with the most upvotes will get realized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conditions for the answers:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Include suggestion for both of the drives in one answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Formulate the suggestion and structure it well, take your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. It should include a direct link to https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. A picture of the drive is welcomed for a better viewer experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. You should include a text explaining why that SSD is better for me, e.g. overall value, performance, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Primary (NVMe) SSD will be used for the Linux system itself and performance-driven applications and games, while the secondary (SATA) SSD will be used for storing stuff like virtual machines, which I don't really need to run at peak performance and other data like thousands of pictures, some videos, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/servicetag/hg6d142/configuration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33838" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10138" RevisionGUID="8c05bcc3-4f68-4259-9828-a3ea99a43099" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:44:02.820" UserId="2059" Text="What SSDs (NVMe + SATA) to a high-performance laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33839" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10138" RevisionGUID="8c05bcc3-4f68-4259-9828-a3ea99a43099" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:44:02.820" UserId="2059" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10139" RevisionGUID="a884780e-af79-40d0-86dc-3f5a72006977" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:44:02.820" UserId="2059" Text="1. **NVMe PCI-Express**: Samsung MZ-V7P512BW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 970 Pro NVMe PCIe M.2 512GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung MZ-V7P512BW][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/498971/Samsung-SSD-970-PRO-512GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **SATA**: Samsung MZ-76P512B&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 860 Pro 512GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung 860 Pro 512GB][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/431483/Samsung-SSD-860-PRO-512GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total price**: Around 11000 CZK in an e-shop like https://www.czc.cz/, which is yet acceptable. Maybe before Christmas, there will be a sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bottom Line**: I think these are a lot overpriced, and I am unsure I would ever use their speed to maximum, but they are flagships, so I post them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/twYtn.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIFME.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="2e7816e2-e611-4e87-af0e-9da3e47525ad" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:50:08.307" UserId="40" Comment="added 1170 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, but the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) however mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10140" RevisionGUID="8ca2ad3d-604d-45fd-9bf1-dd48a380a60b" CreationDate="2018-11-23T05:58:52.547" UserId="2059" Text="1. **NVMe PCI-Express**: Samsung MZ-V7E500BW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 970 Evo NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung MZ-V7E500BW][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/493995/Samsung-SSD-970-EVO-500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **SATA**: Samsung MZ-76E500B/EU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 860 Evo 500GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung 860 Evo 500GB][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/428560/Samsung-SSD-860-EVO-500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total price**: Less than 6000 CZK in an e-shop like https://www.czc.cz/, which is totally acceptable. Maybe I could even go for higher capacity this way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bottom Line**: I think these are a priced well, I know they are a bit slower than Pro versions, but they are really tempting to buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyJvC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAHvW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33843" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10137" RevisionGUID="8e94874e-b88e-4af5-a10d-5cc357bf7ece" CreationDate="2018-11-23T06:02:38.220" UserId="181" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I use Ableton Live 10 with a fast computer and it was working well until I connected several MIDI drum machines (Roland 808, Roland 909). Then it started lagging because my ASIO driver does not have a good enough soundcard, presumably. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I buy? I presume it is my sound card that I need to upgrade. I have tried all the settings and the latency still appears when I connect the external instruments. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is good, I can spend at least 1000 USD. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="3f615c67-f6d7-4f7e-b611-4d3bc00e985b" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:08:30.350" UserId="40" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, however the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;- [ViewSonic VP2771 Professional 27&quot; 1440p Monitor USB Type C 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D](https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP2771-Professional-Calibration-Photography/dp/B01LW8JU15?sa-no-redirect=1): this Amazon page claims that the weight is 6.8 lbs, however the [official specifications](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp2771.html)  ([mirror](http://archive.is/EYiXG)) mention the weight (with the stand) is 6.8 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="25673461-df55-4b51-98cf-ca0931a3703d" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:14:27.923" UserId="40" Comment="added 396 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg. Same issue with the [Dell SE2717H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZAT8P7/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B00M9B3S0W). &#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, however the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;- [ViewSonic VP2771 Professional 27&quot; 1440p Monitor USB Type C 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D](https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP2771-Professional-Calibration-Photography/dp/B01LW8JU15?sa-no-redirect=1): this Amazon page claims that the weight is 6.8 lbs, however the [official specifications](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp2771.html)  ([mirror](http://archive.is/EYiXG)) mention the weight (with the stand) is 6.8 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I contacted the customer services of a few monitor manufacturers to ask for their lightest monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AOC (http://us.aoc.com/en/contact-sales): I'm waiting for their reply.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell (https://www.dell.com/learn/us/en/uscorp1/campaigns/chat-splitter): I was told that the [Dell 24 Monitor | E2417H](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-aiwg) (5.77 kg) is their lightest monitor.&#xD;&#xA;- Spectre (http://www.sceptre.com/ -&gt; Live Chat): I'm waiting for their reply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="e1ebfddc-076e-40ae-98b2-061559294326" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:21:21.597" UserId="40" Comment="added 103 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg. Same issue with the [Dell SE2717H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZAT8P7/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B00M9B3S0W) and the [Dell S2419H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DD4FM8Q/ref=psdc_1292115011_t2_B079RB4Z9T). &#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, however the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;- [ViewSonic VP2771 Professional 27&quot; 1440p Monitor USB Type C 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D](https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP2771-Professional-Calibration-Photography/dp/B01LW8JU15?sa-no-redirect=1): this Amazon page claims that the weight is 6.8 lbs, however the [official specifications](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp2771.html)  ([mirror](http://archive.is/EYiXG)) mention the weight (with the stand) is 6.8 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I contacted the customer services of a few monitor manufacturers to ask for their lightest monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AOC (http://us.aoc.com/en/contact-sales): I'm waiting for their reply.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell (https://www.dell.com/learn/us/en/uscorp1/campaigns/chat-splitter): I was told that the [Dell 24 Monitor | E2417H](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-aiwg) (5.77 kg) is their lightest monitor.&#xD;&#xA;- Spectre (http://www.sceptre.com/ -&gt; Live Chat): I'm waiting for their reply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10142" RevisionGUID="fca5d48d-5348-4801-8778-569ad38d4309" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:25:01.483" UserId="10209" Text="I have seen benchmark results from Geekbench https://browser.geekbench.com/ and also from Passmarks. But I would like to see the benchmark results of a given model  (say Dell Precision with ... configuration). Where can I find these results?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10142" RevisionGUID="fca5d48d-5348-4801-8778-569ad38d4309" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:25:01.483" UserId="10209" Text="Finding a benchmark result" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10142" RevisionGUID="fca5d48d-5348-4801-8778-569ad38d4309" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:25:01.483" UserId="10209" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33853" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="eb3bf631-e8ac-40e9-a6a7-6f2a8b38d3f9" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:39:18.663" UserId="40" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg. Same issue with the [Dell SE2717H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZAT8P7/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B00M9B3S0W) and the [Dell S2419H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DD4FM8Q/ref=psdc_1292115011_t2_B079RB4Z9T). &#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, however the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;- [ViewSonic VP2771 Professional 27&quot; 1440p Monitor USB Type C 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D](https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP2771-Professional-Calibration-Photography/dp/B01LW8JU15?sa-no-redirect=1): this Amazon page claims that the weight is 6.8 lbs, however the [official specifications](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp2771.html)  ([mirror](http://archive.is/EYiXG)) mention the weight (with the stand) is 6.8 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I contacted the customer services of a few monitor manufacturers to ask for their lightest monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AOC (http://us.aoc.com/en/contact-sales): I'm waiting for their reply.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell (https://www.dell.com/learn/us/en/uscorp1/campaigns/chat-splitter): I was told that the [Dell 24 Monitor | E2417H](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-aiwg) (5.77 kg) is their lightest monitor.&#xD;&#xA;- Spectre (http://www.sceptre.com/ -&gt; Live Chat): I'm waiting for their reply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10011" RevisionGUID="05f0f8ab-eed2-4b07-9cff-08d75d4521c6" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:52:15.240" UserId="40" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="So far the lightest monitors I have found are, ordered by increasing weight:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;21.5-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S220HQL Abd 21.5-Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005LJWJSG/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B005Q5F7KM?th=1): DVI/VGA (no HDMI), 1920 x 1080. [Specifications](https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/ET.WS0HP.A01) ([mirror](http://archive.is/6eF83)) **1.86 kg (=4.10 lbs) (unclear if it's without  or with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP 22er 21.5-inch Display](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181119042050/https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-22er-215-inch-display)): HDMI/VGA, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz, 2.07 kg (=4.56 lbs) (without stand), **2.44 kg (=5.38 lbs) (with stand)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;23-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [Acer S230HL 23-Inch 1080p Widescreen LED LCD Monitor (Black)](https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-S230HL-23-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B005Q5F7KM?sa-no-redirect=1). [Specifications](https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117061022/https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-s230hl-abd-led-monitor-full-hd-1080p-23-umvs0aaa02/specs/)):&#xD;&#xA; - Without stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 1.3 in - height: 13.1 in - weight: 2.3 kg (=5.1 lbs)&#xD;&#xA; - With stand - width: 21.6 in - depth: 6.6 in - height: 15.1 in - weight: **2.4 kg (=5.3 lbs)**. I confirmed the weight on one such monitor I purchased.&#xD;&#xA;- [AOC - 24B1H 23.6&quot; LED FHD Monitor](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-24b1h-23-6-led-fhd-monitor-black/6257434.p?skuId=6257434) ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-24B1H-Class-Monitor-Panel/dp/B07F1BRN74?sa-no-redirect=1),  [newegg](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160346)), which weights **2.6 kg (= 5.7 lbs)**. From the [official specifications](https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181104220835/https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/24b1h/specs)): &quot;Net weight excl package kg: 2.6 Kg&quot;. It costs between 110 USD and 150 USD, signal input is (HDMI 1.4 x 1, VGA), and resolution is 1920x1080.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24-inch:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E246BV-FC 24&quot; LED HDTV Display 1920x1080 Full HD HDMI VGA USB, True Black (2017)](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ41F5/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B01HIA63AU); [Specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-408.html) ([mirror](http://archive.fo/s0Y7A)): HDMI/VGA, weight: **2.44 kg (=  5.39 lbs)** with stand, 2.22 kg (= 4.89 lbs) without stand. Note: has bad reviews on Amazon (3.4/5 score).&#xD;&#xA;- [SCEPTRE E248W-1920R 24-inch](https://smile.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU?sa-no-redirect=1): 16:9, HDMI/VGA, Blue Light filter,  weight: **2.6 kg (= 5.77 lbs)** with stand, 2.42 kg (= 5.33 lbs) &#xD;&#xA; without stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the weight information is often incorrect on Amazon. In most cases, this is due to unit errors, e.g. 5 kg in the official specifications becomes 5 lbs on Amazon. Examples of products with such issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell S Series S2719DM 27&quot; Ultrathin Monitor](https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V?sa-no-redirect=1): advertises 8.88 lbs but instead is ~8kg. Same issue with the [Dell SE2717H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZAT8P7/ref=psdc_1292115011_t4_B00M9B3S0W) and the [Dell S2419H](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DD4FM8Q/ref=psdc_1292115011_t2_B079RB4Z9T). &#xD;&#xA;- [Sceptre E248W-1920R 24 Inch Ultra Thin 1080p 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black 2018](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=pe_1098610_137717230_cm_rv_rej_eml_dp):  this Amazon page claims that the weight is 5 lbs, however the [official specifications](http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181117192300/http://www.sceptre.com/overview-398.html)) mention a slightly heavier weight: 5.77 lb With Stand, 5.33 lb Without Stand.&#xD;&#xA;- [ViewSonic VP2771 Professional 27&quot; 1440p Monitor USB Type C 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D](https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP2771-Professional-Calibration-Photography/dp/B01LW8JU15?sa-no-redirect=1): this Amazon page claims that the weight is 6.8 lbs, however the [official specifications](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp2771.html)  ([mirror](http://archive.is/EYiXG)) mention the weight (with the stand) is 6.8 kg.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon tends to reject reviews that point to those issues. As a result, when looking for weight information, one has to double check on the manufacturer's official website, which typically has  for each product one technical specification page specifying the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I contacted the customer services of a few monitor manufacturers to ask for their lightest monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AOC (http://us.aoc.com/en/contact-sales): I'm waiting for their reply.&#xD;&#xA;- Dell (https://www.dell.com/learn/us/en/uscorp1/campaigns/chat-splitter): I was told that the [Dell 24 Monitor | E2417H](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-aiwg) (5.77 kg) is their lightest monitor.&#xD;&#xA;- Spectre (http://www.sceptre.com/ -&gt; Live Chat): I'm waiting for their reply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33855" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="0b23b908-345f-49c3-bcda-4ac446529a66" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:01:40.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10140" RevisionGUID="d99b6dca-02c8-4d79-a9af-5d273c9102c5" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:24:51.990" UserId="2059" Comment="spelling" Text="1. **NVMe PCI-Express**: Samsung MZ-V7E500BW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 970 Evo NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung MZ-V7E500BW][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/493995/Samsung-SSD-970-EVO-500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **SATA**: Samsung MZ-76E500B/EU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Model: **Samsung 860 Evo 500GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![Samsung 860 Evo 500GB][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/428560/Samsung-SSD-860-EVO-500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Total price**: Less than 6000 CZK in an e-shop like https://www.czc.cz/, which is totally acceptable. Maybe I could even go for higher capacity this way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bottom Line**: I think these are priced well, I know they are a bit slower than Pro versions, but they are really tempting to buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyJvC.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BAHvW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10144" RevisionGUID="d3e470d2-9add-4de2-8fb6-05c266c47dec" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:43:35.700" UserId="9993" Text="You might find it on [notebookcheck](https://www.notebookcheck.net), but if you don't, simply look at similar laptops. The cooling system may change a bit the performance, but you can see that in reviews and then evaluate if your model might be slightly better/worse that the benchmark you found." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10147" RevisionGUID="6704f5fe-a92d-4090-9a77-dd4ce76d940c" CreationDate="2018-11-23T16:07:29.820" UserId="9587" Text="I thought about writing a comment first, but since it will be relevant to other people I will write it as answer.&#xA;&#xA;There are a few things you need to consider when doing this upgrade:&#xA;&#xA; 1. Do you really need NVME SSD? NVME speeds reach into thousands of MB/s, it sounds impressive, but in real computing you would see a marginal difference, the real difference being in 2-8%, according to my estimates. Compiling AOSP on my SATA SSD loads my Ryzen 1700x CPU up to 90-95%, and your laptop has a much weaker [7700HQ][1]. Most of the heavy computing you do will be CPU-bound, and upgrading SSD won't help it. You might see some apps taking a second or two less to load.&#xA;&#xA; 2. The only real use for those speeds is actually doing backups. If you can't stand to let them run overnight, then having SSD's is a plus. But with NVME SSD's you still would be IO bound - to run backup at **SATA III** speed you would need at least a 5 gigabit speed, while your laptop only has a gigabit Ethernet adapter, that is just as fast as a decent HDD.&#xA;Even a 10 gigabit would max out at ~1200 MB/s, which your Toshiba KXG50ZNV512G is capable of delivering. To get even higher speeds you would need a Thunderbolt port. You would also need a storage that supports those kinds of speed, so either a RAID 0 NAS, or another NVME SSD.&#xA;&#xA; 3. Samsung's 860 aren't quite as good as you think. It's speed is a bit of a cheat - it uses a cheap flash and a fast caching storage, so after the cache gets filled it's speed drops to 120-150 MB/s. If you were to use it intensively you would notice a performance drop.&#xA;&#xA;So, my suggestion is:&#xA;&#xA;Go for a single 1TB Samsung 970 Pro M.2:&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;It costs about 11400 Kc on the website you suggested, it delivers one of the best SSD performance, and it is the most cost efficient solution. SSD prices drop and storage increases, buying a 500 GB SSD now would require a sooner upgrade and make it less reusable in future. You would also be able to install your VM's on it, and in this case it might actually improve VM's performance.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dstatic.computeruniverse.net/images/700/907255744D4F485D83744BD3BF3E5E42.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&#xA;&#xA;And an M.2 to SATA adapter. You already have a working SSD, so why not reuse it?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB13OEGfEFWMKJjSZFvq6yenFXaj/NGFF-M2-SSD-2-5-SATA-M-2-NGFF-SSD-SATA3.jpg_640x640q70.jpg_.webp&quot;&gt;&lt;img&gt;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700X/m211019vs3915" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33872" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10147" RevisionGUID="6e07beb8-5ad1-4748-97f8-da1c01b051e1" CreationDate="2018-11-23T17:10:11.580" UserId="9587" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="I thought about writing a comment first, but since it will be relevant to other people I will write it as answer.&#xA;&#xA;There are a few things you need to consider when doing this upgrade:&#xA;&#xA; 1. Do you really need NVME SSD? NVME speeds reach into thousands of MB/s, it sounds impressive, but in real computing you would see a marginal difference, the real difference being in 2-8%, according to my estimates. Compiling AOSP on my SATA SSD loads my Ryzen 1700x CPU up to 90-95%, and your laptop has a much weaker [7700HQ][1]. Most of the heavy computing you do will be CPU-bound, and upgrading SSD won't help it. You might see some apps taking a second or two less to load.&#xA;&#xA; 2. The only real use for those speeds is actually doing backups. If you can't stand to let them run overnight, then having SSD's is a plus. But with NVME SSD's you still would be IO bound - to run backup at **SATA III** speed you would need at least a 5 gigabit speed, while your laptop only has a gigabit Ethernet adapter, that is just as fast as a decent HDD.&#xA;Even a 10 gigabit would max out at ~1200 MB/s, which your Toshiba KXG50ZNV512G is capable of delivering. To get even higher speeds you would need a Thunderbolt port. You would also need a storage that supports those kinds of speed, so either a RAID 0 NAS, or another NVME SSD.&#xA;&#xA; 3. Samsung's 860 aren't quite as good as you think. It's speed is a bit of a cheat - it uses a cheap flash and a fast caching storage, so after the cache gets filled it's speed drops to 120-150 MB/s. If you were to use it intensively you would notice a performance drop.&#xA;&#xA;So, my suggestion is:&#xA;&#xA;Go for a single 1TB Samsung 970 Pro M.2:&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;It costs about 11400 Kc on the website you suggested, it delivers one of the best SSD performance, and it is the most cost efficient solution. SSD prices drop and storage increases, buying a 500 GB SSD now would require a sooner upgrade and make it less reusable in future. You would also be able to install your VM's on it, and in this case it might actually improve VM's performance.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dstatic.computeruniverse.net/images/700/907255744D4F485D83744BD3BF3E5E42.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/img&gt;&#xA;&#xA;https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/497261/Samsung-SSD-970-PRO-1TB&#xA;&#xA;And an M.2 to SATA adapter. You already have a working SSD, so why not reuse it?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB13OEGfEFWMKJjSZFvq6yenFXaj/NGFF-M2-SSD-2-5-SATA-M-2-NGFF-SSD-SATA3.jpg_640x640q70.jpg_.webp&quot;&gt;&lt;img&gt;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700X/m211019vs3915" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33876" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="72e5f0e7-a449-40e8-96e2-fb7ee8a7aaad" CreationDate="2018-11-23T18:24:32.307" UserId="10213" Text="I don't understand the differences between different mother boards' chipsets. For instance between 470x and 450b. I also don't understand how to quanitfiy the difference between motherboards with the same chipsets. How do you measure these differences? Which features matter and why (I am not doing SLI)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have the same problem with mem. How do I measure latency? How much does it affect performance? I don't understand if 3200hz matters. Also, there are a lot of different kinds with 3200hz, what are the differences and how do you know? Some brands like and models like FLare X say they are for AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Flare X (for AMD)] Designed for the latest AMD Ryzen™ processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What the hell does that mean? How do you make sense of it? Is other memory specifically for Intel?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last thing is the power supply. I read online that Seasonic is supposedly good and that you should buy something like &quot;Seasonic SSR-750PX&quot; but I don't understand what 'SSR' and 'PX' mean? I also don't understand if I should care. How do you tell the difference between these things?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know it sounds like 3 or more difference questions but my question is actually how to make sense of all this by myself. All those things seem almost exactly the same. It is not like you see a 3dmark or a cinebench score for motherboards/memory/power supply." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33877" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="72e5f0e7-a449-40e8-96e2-fb7ee8a7aaad" CreationDate="2018-11-23T18:24:32.307" UserId="10213" Text="Telling the difference; How to pick components for an AMD Ryzen 2700x build (Motherboards, memory and power supply)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33878" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="72e5f0e7-a449-40e8-96e2-fb7ee8a7aaad" CreationDate="2018-11-23T18:24:32.307" UserId="10213" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10151" RevisionGUID="d8d6d039-e30b-4963-862d-8c2f113fb9c9" CreationDate="2018-11-23T21:20:14.317" UserId="9993" Text="Lots of question, lots of answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't understand the differences between different mother boards' chipsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference is pretty well explained on the [Wikipedia page of AM4 socket](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4#Chipsets). Mostly SLI / CFX support and number of ports / slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I also don't understand how to quantify the difference between motherboards with the same chipsets. How do you measure these differences? Which features matter and why (I am not doing SLI)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboards can include a whole lot of features, like dual bios (two BIOS chips onboard), more slots, better design, software features (OC suites, etc). The quality of components can also vary. The question is: what are you going to need ? And if you don't know, which is probably the case, ask yourself what you're gonna do with the mobo (OC, multi GPU, etc), you'll have the answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How do I measure latency? How much does it affect performance? I don't understand if 3200hz matters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll advice watching [LTT video on ram speed](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Also, there are a lot of different kinds with 3200Mhz, what are the differences and how do you know? Some brands like and models like FLare X say they are for AMD. What the hell does that mean? How do you make sense of it? Is other memory specifically for Intel?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The chips on the sticks can be different. Please notice that Ryzen are quite more tricky on frequency than Intel CPUs, it's harder to achieve high frequency, or to the cost of a higher latency. That's why there are &quot;Ryzen optimized&quot; rams. This does NOT mean that other rams won't work with Ryzen, it means that other rams COULD possibly not run at their maximum speed / minimum latency on Ryzen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I said different chips, I meant different ranges, from different manufacturers. That can be a way of choosing your ram, especially for Ryzen. You can rely on [this table](https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/62vp2g/clearing_up_any_samsung_bdie_confusion_eg_on/) for chips ranges. This is an extract of what is written above the table:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; In general (on Ryzen) you can expect up to 3466 MHz (without BCLK-OC) with Samsung B-Die (on AGESA 1.0.0.6+ Bios Versions), up to 2933 MHz (without BCLK-OC) with Samsung D/E/S-Die (AGESA 1.0.0.5+). Hynix A/M-Die are mostly working @ 3200 MHz with AGESA 1.0.0.5+. Do note that Dual Rank RAM is faster than Single Rank. E.g. 2933 MHz Dual Rank is faster than 3200 MHz Single Rank.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It was written for 1st gen Ryzen, but is still quite accurate today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I don't understand what 'SSR' and 'PX' mean? I also don't understand if I should care. How do you tell the difference between these things?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would say SSR and PX have to do with the platform used, but I wouldn't put money on it. What you should care about is the range, a Focus Plus (e.g. SSR 550 FX) isn't the same range as Prime Platinium Ultra (e.g. SSR 550 PD2) and the quality is not the same. Once again, how much you should care depends on what you want / need. Of course, if you have a low budget, you're not going to head toward the highest end 1KW PSUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend to consider SuperFlower and FSP as well, they're part of the biggest PSU manufacturers with Sea. Evga is also very good, using SP, FSP and Sea parts. If you don't know if your PSU is good, look at [that table](http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html). It'll probably give you reviews for the model you're looking for, once you found it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10152" RevisionGUID="7a228bb3-81c3-40db-96cc-c8cf575f6267" CreationDate="2018-11-23T21:21:13.177" UserId="10214" Text="I'm dealing with a 3.5 inch floppy drive and I'm curious if there's any way to get a USB drive's data directly into the place where the floppy drive would usually be inserted. Is there such a device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33882" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10152" RevisionGUID="7a228bb3-81c3-40db-96cc-c8cf575f6267" CreationDate="2018-11-23T21:21:13.177" UserId="10214" Text="Getting a USB into 3.5 floppy drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33883" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10152" RevisionGUID="7a228bb3-81c3-40db-96cc-c8cf575f6267" CreationDate="2018-11-23T21:21:13.177" UserId="10214" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;floppy-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10154" RevisionGUID="1299821a-74cf-41f9-b4fb-1b1297f12220" CreationDate="2018-11-23T23:11:10.573" UserId="1461" Text="I'm planning on adding an SSD to my old DELL Inspiron N5110, using a caddy to put the SSD there instead of the optical drive, but I don't know the size of the caddy that I should buy, 9.5mm or 12.7mm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop's optical drive is a &quot;TSSTcorp DVD+-RW SN-208BB&quot;, I searched all over the net and I didn't find it's size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it a problem if I get a bigger or a smaller caddy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33886" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10154" RevisionGUID="1299821a-74cf-41f9-b4fb-1b1297f12220" CreationDate="2018-11-23T23:11:10.573" UserId="1461" Text="which HDD caddy for my Dell Inspiron N5110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33887" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10154" RevisionGUID="1299821a-74cf-41f9-b4fb-1b1297f12220" CreationDate="2018-11-23T23:11:10.573" UserId="1461" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33896" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9516" RevisionGUID="a279af00-fa7b-4114-b171-2580dc468339" CreationDate="2018-11-24T14:02:00.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33904" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9796" RevisionGUID="37270a10-143e-422a-a617-d27b8b9dd99f" CreationDate="2018-11-24T23:51:21.737" UserId="6284" Comment="details" Text="I would like something like this keyboard except where the quality is assured to work for a long while:&lt;br&gt;http://a.co/d/i1uzVA1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be slim (like Surface/Mac desktop keyboard)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be backlit and allow for white color light&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be wireless (i.e. contains USB dongle)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Manufacturing reliability must be verified and must have reputation for quality products&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Needs to be full desktop keyboard (i.e. contains numpad section)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard must be for English-native speakers/typists&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Space bar must be big enough to stretch from the 'X' key to the '.' key&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferred but not required:**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Color variation for keyboard itself&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Individual keys spaced out symmetrically and big enough&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Keyboard is **not** mechanical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;**Irrelevant**:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Price&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Battery-type (e.g. AA, AAA)&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Warranty&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Product dimensions&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;*Function keys&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Amazon and Newegg. I haven't had much luck with the type of keyboard I'm looking for. The only keyboard that has come close is the one I've linked to above. I was going to invest in it until I read the reviews for it. It appears that the quality control for it are sub-standard and so I would like an identical keyboard but from someone who I can trust to make a decent keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TIA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33905" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="1df4a8e5-dd9b-4dac-a96c-db907636201a" CreationDate="2018-11-25T02:01:40.377" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33910" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="a0aa432a-be84-4428-ba36-1b76f8c34c59" CreationDate="2018-11-25T09:00:45.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33911" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9654" RevisionGUID="00aa8190-e0bc-4263-a70b-a4b13e354f04" CreationDate="2018-11-25T12:03:05.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10158" RevisionGUID="34b70bcf-a5be-4a61-895e-9a9f9c9eb339" CreationDate="2018-11-25T14:52:05.270" UserId="1800" Text="I'm fed up with home inkjet printers. We don't print often and, whenever we wanted to, we'd find the ink had dried up. It's not much of an exaggeration to say that we ended up buying a new set of cartridges every time we had a printing batch to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'd resolved to get a laser printer. But they're all huge and we have limited space. And mostly we print images and they need to be high quality - and I think I'm right in saying that laser printers are not ideal for this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm in a quandary. There are so many printers, it's hard to find or search on their dimensions and after having so many bad experiences, I simply don't trust the manufacturers. I'd be willing to spend quite a lot of money - £300 or so - to get a printer I could rely on. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I need:&#xD;&#xA;- Can be relied on to work after 1-2 months without use&#xD;&#xA;- No more than 39cm deep&#xD;&#xA;- high print quality&#xD;&#xA;- (nice to have, not essential) paper casette, duplex&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What printer can I trust?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33916" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10158" RevisionGUID="34b70bcf-a5be-4a61-895e-9a9f9c9eb339" CreationDate="2018-11-25T14:52:05.270" UserId="1800" Text="Home printer / scanner - high quality images but occasional use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33917" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10158" RevisionGUID="34b70bcf-a5be-4a61-895e-9a9f9c9eb339" CreationDate="2018-11-25T14:52:05.270" UserId="1800" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33918" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="5624a0c5-e027-40a9-ac58-b311ff3fbf0d" CreationDate="2018-11-25T15:01:55.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33919" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="3261d369-c1ed-42ea-b0a5-26554ad1bb73" CreationDate="2018-11-25T16:01:40.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33920" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8155" RevisionGUID="af09f75b-b7aa-4cd3-8a85-8e49f64c92e4" CreationDate="2018-11-25T18:01:45.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33921" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="f8e5fba0-c544-4a21-bc68-4c296400f787" CreationDate="2018-11-25T19:01:35.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10159" RevisionGUID="3c4f6eab-881d-455e-8a7e-7e2841bce48a" CreationDate="2018-11-25T21:33:50.157" UserId="1461" Text="After I asked some repair shops, the right size for the N5110 is 12.7mm, but you can still use the 9mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33923" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10160" RevisionGUID="646de033-4158-4a50-a96c-a966a24cd61c" CreationDate="2018-11-25T22:10:18.193" UserId="10222" Text="The cheapest x86 solution is probably going to be based on an RDC chip.  See http://www.rdc.com.tw/.  The OpenWrt project carried some information on devices that contained these chips:  https://openwrt.org/docs/techref/targets/rdc, however it seems lately many designs have been replaced by ARM-based solutions.  Here is one x86-based device still for sale that could be hacked: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://www.frineta.lt/eshop/product.php?id_product=239&amp;id_lang=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, RDC have come up with newer chips that must have found their way into newer SBCs, e.g. EmKore (http://www.rdc.com.tw/?route=home/emk).  I presume someone is making SBCs based on those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="ae32a880-b0b7-42ff-a7aa-c2cfd3480415" CreationDate="2018-11-25T23:02:30.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33931" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="0cfad38b-def1-4fad-9967-c75e401f9bcf" CreationDate="2018-11-26T09:02:25.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33939" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="d56e7550-f901-4f7e-b194-40e60b3bf0e6" CreationDate="2018-11-26T17:02:05.330" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33940" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10147" RevisionGUID="99b1020c-c1da-417d-8f7d-e4fd10abfd5e" CreationDate="2018-11-26T19:57:56.317" UserId="2059" Comment="replaced possibly volatile image sources from foreign web sites with imgur.com + uploaded high resolution 1TB Pro drive image + cropped the adapter image a little" Text="I thought about writing a comment first, but since it will be relevant to other people I will write it as an answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few things you need to consider when doing this upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Do you really need NVMe SSD? NVMe speeds reach into thousands of MB/s, it sounds impressive, but in real computing, you would see a marginal difference, the real difference being in 2-8%, according to my estimates. Compiling AOSP on my SATA SSD loads my Ryzen 1700x CPU up to 90-95%, and your laptop has a much weaker [7700HQ][1]. Most of the heavy computing you do will be CPU-bound, and upgrading SSD won't help it. You might see some apps taking a second or two less to load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. The only real use for those speeds is actually doing backups. If you can't stand to let them run overnight, then having SSD's is a plus. But with NVMe SSD's you still would be IO bound - to run a backup at **SATA III** speed you would need at least a 5 gigabit speed, while your laptop only has a gigabit Ethernet adapter, that is just as fast as a decent HDD.&#xD;&#xA;Even a 10 gigabit would max out at ~1200 MB/s, which your Toshiba KXG50ZNV512G is capable of delivering. To get even higher speeds you would need a Thunderbolt port. You would also need a storage that supports those kinds of speed, so either a RAID 0 NAS or another NVMe SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. Samsung's 860 aren't quite as good as you think. Its speed is a bit of a cheat - it uses a cheap flash and a fast caching storage, so after the cache gets filled its speed drops to 120-150 MB/s. If you were to use it intensively you would notice a performance drop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, my suggestion is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Go for a single 1TB Samsung 970 Pro M.2:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs about 11400 CZK on the website you suggested, it delivers one of the best SSD performance, and it is the most cost-efficient solution. SSD prices drop and storage increases, buying a 500 GB SSD now would require a sooner upgrade and make it less reusable in future. You would also be able to install your VM's on it, and in this case, it might actually improve VM's performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Samsung SSD 970 PRO 1TB][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/SpeedTest/497261/Samsung-SSD-970-PRO-1TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And an M.2 to SATA adapter. You already have a working SSD, so why not reuse it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![M.2 to SATA adapter][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700X/m211019vs3915&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkiqm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPRhy.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33941" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10147" RevisionGUID="99b1020c-c1da-417d-8f7d-e4fd10abfd5e" CreationDate="2018-11-26T19:57:56.317" Comment="Proposed by 2059 approved by 60 edit id of 779" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33945" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9804" RevisionGUID="4643fe8b-902c-4e72-a725-d9430619c27d" CreationDate="2018-11-26T22:02:45.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33946" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="01507323-8364-4199-8ff6-5c54deba95f0" CreationDate="2018-11-26T23:02:55.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33948" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9843" RevisionGUID="6412b88d-6183-49be-a223-9ce3b65551bc" CreationDate="2018-11-27T08:02:15.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10166" RevisionGUID="cea5caca-cac9-4b1e-af19-180e8e5b26ac" CreationDate="2018-11-27T13:07:18.090" UserId="9084" Text="There isn't a device which allows a 3.5&quot; floppy drive to read off of Flash memory, simply because the drive itself works through the traditional mechanical means of its media.   Such a device would be similar to a car tape-deck adapter for a CD player, and would be prone to failure anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many, many devices like [this one][1] which will allow you to use USB disks with a 3.5&quot; *bay*, however.   They require connection to the USB headers on your motherboard or an expansion card purchased separately. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjwke7i0fTeAhVQA4YKHT59DDwYABABGgJ2dQ&amp;ohost=www.google.com&amp;cid=CAASEuRo6MTqlzvJEgRLylb91FlagQ&amp;sig=AOD64_3rSLTPOgDOhFJ4U2zvNEO5j5bIyw&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjryuji0fTeAhXDjVkKHaqIDIMQ9aACCDU&amp;adurl=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33954" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10074" RevisionGUID="98a64a48-505a-41fd-9600-1a514dba7fc3" CreationDate="2018-11-27T13:28:08.877" UserId="10135" Comment="deleted 113 characters in body" Text="If you are looking for price, an [HP EliteBook 725 G3][1] would be your best bet, with   a 12.5&quot; HD screen, and prices starting at $649 right now. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, in fact, for only $899, you can get the [Lenovo ThinkPad E485][3] with a 14&quot; HD screen, and a Ryzen (yes!) processor. ($799 if you're willing to drop the SSD requirement.)  Notice that SSD size upgrades are *very* cheap for this model; I'd pay the $100 to upgrade to the 512GB SSD if I were buying this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, there are *many* more choices.  Many.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100006740%20600136700&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=HP%20EliteBook%20725%20G3&amp;name=Laptops%20%2f%20Notebooks&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;Pagesize=60&amp;isdeptsrh=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-EliteBook-Business-A8X4-1-6G-AMD-RADEONR6/dp/B01GHLV0JU/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542079439&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=HP%20EliteBook%20725%20G3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA7AB7ZH6307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33955" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10128" RevisionGUID="95497537-01b3-40e2-a997-b5685cfd572b" CreationDate="2018-11-27T15:44:57.893" UserId="6047" Comment="Hard coded link" Text="Like so many answers this answer comes with limitations that may not suit you.&#xD;&#xA;Limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Requires some minimal electronic skill&#xD;&#xA; 2. Reading and assembly required&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Onion Omega2+ $13 (or Omega2 $10) with a PowerDock $6 and $3 USB audio adapter all under $30.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Download the Omega2 Project book Vol1 and find Chapter 5 (Audio projects)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you are adventurous enough to take on this project you will find it very rewarding.&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Doc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://onion.io/downloads/omega2-project-book-vol1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33956" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10128" RevisionGUID="95497537-01b3-40e2-a997-b5685cfd572b" CreationDate="2018-11-27T15:44:57.893" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 7556, 60 edit id of 778" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33958" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="455b50ca-6db6-4c50-b1d8-4c3d8661d89e" CreationDate="2018-11-27T16:00:26.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="31673a34-9e5d-4f99-a3dd-5ed3cbbab566" CreationDate="2018-11-27T16:15:32.827" UserId="10234" Text="Not so long ago I bought an iMac but the keyboard is in the Swiss QWERTZ layout and I absolutely hate it (the layout). I can't get accustomed to not having the tilde, curly brackets and square brackets on my keyboard. I this would like to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I, however, like the format of the keyboard a lot (it's compact and it has 80 keys) and the fact that my hands don't hurt when using it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that the price tag of a new Magic Keyboard is about 100 EUR (i live in Italy), which is not very low, I would like to get an alternative one, even maybe paying something extra. I like the Matias Laptop Pro but I can't find it in Italy, not for less that approx. 200 EUR, and it also have mixed reviews. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Some context:&#xD;&#xA;- wireless or wired and wireless (Bluetooth is desirable but not mandatory).&#xD;&#xA;- compact format (similar to the Magic Keyboard or Mathias Laptop Pro). I need it to have the individual arrow keys and F row (it's useful for me on my mac). I don't want the numeric keypad, nor do I care much about PgUp, PgDn and Ins keys, though it would be useful to have Home, End and Delete. &#xD;&#xA;- don't care much if it's backlit or not. &#xD;&#xA;- the quality must be good; mustn't last for 100 years but neither do I wish to change it next year.&#xD;&#xA;- I'd avoid tenkeyless if I could; I'd prefer not to have the arrow buttons further to the right. if, however, I won't find another alternative I'll get a tenkeyless.&#xD;&#xA;- mechanical switches, not clicky, not very hard to press.&#xD;&#xA;- even if it's a Windows keyboard, should also work on a Mac.&#xD;&#xA;- i want it for typing/coding, not for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;During my research I found a few models but other than the fact that they cost a lot (more that 200 EUR), the reviews are mixed, and a lot of problems are reported (some keys stop working after a few, won't pair, etc.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a novice in this and don't know much about keyboards so I turn to persons with more knowledge to guide me. Could you please help me find my keyboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33961" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="31673a34-9e5d-4f99-a3dd-5ed3cbbab566" CreationDate="2018-11-27T16:15:32.827" UserId="10234" Text="Replacement for Apple Magic Keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33962" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="31673a34-9e5d-4f99-a3dd-5ed3cbbab566" CreationDate="2018-11-27T16:15:32.827" UserId="10234" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33967" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="ffb7b39a-d5e3-4894-9973-827ac18e1e37" CreationDate="2018-11-27T19:39:24.337" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="33970" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="a227ded2-5975-4430-9bfc-7cb3066e582e" CreationDate="2018-11-28T04:04:25.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="a1ca8bba-3e98-472e-8ffc-68034fcdabf8" CreationDate="2018-11-28T06:05:21.363" UserId="10233" Text="I have a [Lenovo ThinkPad 11e][1] with an [Intel Celeron CPU N2940][2] and 8 GB of memory (Crucial Single DDR3 1600 MT/s).  Intel's website states the `Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type)` is 8 GB.  I'm wondering: **What memory type will enable me to increase the memory to 16+ GB?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I considered getting a newer 11.6&quot; laptop, such as the Yoga models which come with 16 GB, but it's soldered (which is a deal breaker), its CPU is only a dual-core (unlike Celeron's quad-core), and it has only 1 USB slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a perfect world, there is an 11.6&quot; laptop that has memory extendible to 32 GB and all the physical plugins that are on the 11e (i.e., HDMI connector, Ethernet Connector, Media card slot, and 2 USB 3.0 connectors). I've searched dozens of websites and it seems that Lenovo ThinkPad 11e is the most suitable, except for the uncertainty about the max 8 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Any tips?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-thinkpad-11e-11-6-celeron-n2940-4-gb-ram-500-gb-hdd-20d9s00c00/specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/82104/Intel-Celeron-Processor-N2940-2M-Cache-up-to-2-25-GHz-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="a1ca8bba-3e98-472e-8ffc-68034fcdabf8" CreationDate="2018-11-28T06:05:21.363" UserId="10233" Text="Upgrade RAM beyond CPU limitation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="a1ca8bba-3e98-472e-8ffc-68034fcdabf8" CreationDate="2018-11-28T06:05:21.363" UserId="10233" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10173" RevisionGUID="551bd0c3-a9a6-4f06-a746-688041465fae" CreationDate="2018-11-28T10:04:33.487" UserId="363" Text="&gt; Even if it's a Windows keyboard, should also work on a Mac.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's painful to use a windows keyboard on mac for writing. But I can really really recommend you the older 2nd Generation Apple Wireless Keyboard (A1314).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have mechanical switches but to be honest, it's my daily keyboard for more than 5 years now and it works just perfectly. I have a mechanical keyboard at home and have to say the feeling on the older Apple Wireless Keyboard is just perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get the keyboard on eBay new or rare used for 50-70 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IMHO it has some advantages to the newer one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AA batteries (you can just buy a pack of 4 rechargeable eneloops (or something similar) and they last at least 2 months (9 hours of daily usage) – switching the batteries is done within seconds.&#xD;&#xA;- The keycaps can be replaced on your own in case something will be damaged&#xD;&#xA;- Heavier&#xD;&#xA;- Higher keycaps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of those advantages can be seen as disadvantages, but this is just my opinion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33991" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="bb769efd-cd43-4b1b-a7fe-aa429610b0cf" CreationDate="2018-11-28T15:02:00.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="33994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="d139651d-29c9-435a-a4d8-631f10eb02a5" CreationDate="2018-11-28T18:41:37.610" UserId="363" Comment="make the markdown list work" Text="Not so long ago I bought an iMac but the keyboard is in the Swiss QWERTZ layout and I absolutely hate it (the layout). I can't get accustomed to not having the tilde, curly brackets and square brackets on my keyboard. I this would like to change it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I, however, like the format of the keyboard a lot (it's compact and it has 80 keys) and the fact that my hands don't hurt when using it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that the price tag of a new Magic Keyboard is about 100 EUR (i live in Italy), which is not very low, I would like to get an alternative one, even maybe paying something extra. I like the Matias Laptop Pro but I can't find it in Italy, not for less that approx. 200 EUR, and it also have mixed reviews. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Some context:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless or wired and wireless (Bluetooth is desirable but not mandatory).&#xD;&#xA;- Compact format (similar to the Magic Keyboard or Mathias Laptop Pro). I need it to have the individual arrow keys and F row (it's useful for me on my mac). I don't want the numeric keypad, nor do I care much about PgUp, PgDn and Ins keys, though it would be useful to have Home, End and Delete. &#xD;&#xA;- Don't care much if it's backlit or not. &#xD;&#xA;- The quality must be good; mustn't last for 100 years but neither do I wish to change it next year.&#xD;&#xA;- I'd avoid tenkeyless if I could; I'd prefer not to have the arrow buttons further to the right. if, however, I won't find another alternative I'll get a tenkeyless.&#xD;&#xA;- Mechanical switches, not clicky, not very hard to press.&#xD;&#xA;- Even if it's a Windows keyboard, should also work on a Mac.&#xD;&#xA;- I want it for typing/coding, not for gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;During my research I found a few models but other than the fact that they cost a lot (more that 200 EUR), the reviews are mixed, and a lot of problems are reported (some keys stop working after a few, won't pair, etc.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a novice in this and don't know much about keyboards so I turn to persons with more knowledge to guide me. Could you please help me find my keyboard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33995" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="d139651d-29c9-435a-a4d8-631f10eb02a5" CreationDate="2018-11-28T18:41:37.610" Comment="Proposed by 363 approved by 60 edit id of 780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10177" RevisionGUID="3e106eca-ff06-44a4-82cf-d322e28ad83c" CreationDate="2018-11-28T19:35:04.453" UserId="10240" Text="I have a very large collection of music. Over the years I have slowly put it all on my computer as .mp3 files. The entire library is about 360 GB and consists of about 150K separate tracks. My entire life, I have had a dream of putting all of my music on one portable device that I could listen to, like an iPod, and shuffle through all 150k songs without difficulty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I have yet to find such a device. I have tried many many different things, the most recent being the iBasso DX90, which had the capacity to hold all of the songs, but was unusable do to the massive amounts of lag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is this: Does anyone know if there is a device that can do what I'm asking? If not, what are some of my other options to carry my entire library around without using multiple devices?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10177" RevisionGUID="3e106eca-ff06-44a4-82cf-d322e28ad83c" CreationDate="2018-11-28T19:35:04.453" UserId="10240" Text="Is there a music player that can play a 150,000 song library?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10177" RevisionGUID="3e106eca-ff06-44a4-82cf-d322e28ad83c" CreationDate="2018-11-28T19:35:04.453" UserId="10240" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34002" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="a1b0294b-33c1-472c-ae68-253df6fd6c1c" CreationDate="2018-11-28T20:27:34.127" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the off-topic question." Text="I have a [Lenovo ThinkPad 11e][1] with an [Intel Celeron CPU N2940][2] and 8 GB of memory (Crucial Single DDR3 1600 MT/s).  Intel's website states the `Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type)` is 8 GB, but I would like to have 16+ GB?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of that, I am considering getting a new 11.6&quot; laptop, such as the Yoga models which come with 16 GB, but the RAM is soldered (which is a deal breaker), its CPU is only a dual-core (unlike Celeron's quad-core), and it has only 1 USB slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a perfect world, I would like a 11.6&quot; laptop that has memory extendible to 32 GB and all the physical plugins that are on the 11e (i.e., HDMI connector, Ethernet Connector, Media card slot, and 2 USB 3.0 connectors). I've searched dozens of websites and it seems that Lenovo ThinkPad 11e is the most suitable, except for the max 8 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-thinkpad-11e-11-6-celeron-n2940-4-gb-ram-500-gb-hdd-20d9s00c00/specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/82104/Intel-Celeron-Processor-N2940-2M-Cache-up-to-2-25-GHz-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34003" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="a1b0294b-33c1-472c-ae68-253df6fd6c1c" CreationDate="2018-11-28T20:27:34.127" UserId="60" Comment="Removed the off-topic question." Text="New 11.6&quot; laptop with 16GB RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34009" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10127" RevisionGUID="8c47ee24-fce8-45c3-b941-f944c155dddc" CreationDate="2018-11-28T20:43:01.280" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="34013" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="cdbd6af3-192b-4003-ae6a-95f97b7cb502" CreationDate="2018-11-29T01:01:40.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34014" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="460c3998-d126-443e-8805-6043c159fba4" CreationDate="2018-11-29T02:00:50.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34021" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="4f6cccf4-6655-4e30-8a40-c3850adf97c9" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:02:05.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="a23a85c6-b699-4397-84ae-27aac48b1cea" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:33:07.190" UserId="10213" Comment="Attempting to meet the requirements" Text="## MOBO ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't fully understand all the subtle differences between different mobo models. I know 470x supports SLI and think b450 doesn't. I also know some mobo models have wifi, faster Ethernet and/or better sound and some have more USB ports/PCIE slots. Some even boast a better VRM heatsink (?), not sure if I should care? Also, some boards have negative core voltage and precision boost, I am guessing I shouldn't care cause these have to do with OC? Also, some VRMs are 10 phase (?) and some are 6 phase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I don't care about audio and I don't need fast Ethernet or wifi and I don't understand why I should invest in VRM, I am thinking of buying this model:&#xD;&#xA;**Asrock B450M-HDV**. Q: Are there any serious disadvantages to it? I am buying it cause it got nice reviews and it's very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other important feature I'm missing that I might want to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## MEM ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to purchase Flare X AMD compatible DDR4. I don't understand what this compatibility means? Should I care about it?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Flare X (for AMD)] Designed for the latest AMD Ryzen™ processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am buying the 2400Mhz model. How much oomph do you get by opting for the 3200Mhz model?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## PSU ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to juice this thing with Corsair RM550x. It should be sufficient. Why should I care about PSU rating like platinum/titanium/gold/bronze? Do they matter? Why would anyone buy the expensive ones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main question is how do you distinguish between components that you can't benchmark with 3dmark or cinebench? How do you know they are &quot;better&quot; budget options? How is it measured? What is the added value? How significant is it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34023" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="a23a85c6-b699-4397-84ae-27aac48b1cea" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:33:07.190" UserId="10213" Comment="Attempting to meet the requirements" Text="Picking the right memory, psu and mobo for a ryzen 2700x + gtx 1070 ti non OC build?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10180" RevisionGUID="26a00003-d4c9-4e4e-b8bd-2c20f47bc3e2" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:54:10.850" UserId="3913" Text="Back in 2016, the LG (G) Stylus 2 was the first phone with a builtin DAB+ radio. It has now been discontinued. Are there any more recent mobile phones with DAB+ support? The newer LG models do not seem to have it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that there are USB dongles for DAB+ reception with Android devices. This is not what I am looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34025" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10180" RevisionGUID="26a00003-d4c9-4e4e-b8bd-2c20f47bc3e2" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:54:10.850" UserId="3913" Text="Smartphone with DAB+ digital radio builtin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34026" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10180" RevisionGUID="26a00003-d4c9-4e4e-b8bd-2c20f47bc3e2" CreationDate="2018-11-29T14:54:10.850" UserId="3913" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10181" RevisionGUID="d9e93b2b-1a00-4fe2-8c72-3ed18e4c0dab" CreationDate="2018-11-29T21:29:06.570" UserId="1921" Text="1.  SATA 1  150mb/s&#xD;&#xA;2.  SATA 2  300mb/s&#xD;&#xA;3.  SATA 3  600mb/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the RAID controller has SATA 3 connectors it should be able to handle it.  If you are looking for raw speed a samsung ssd will do 500-550mb/s read and 300+mb/s write beating any 2 hard drives you can attach via SATA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34030" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="cd2344b4-1a33-4746-966b-068fab60bb37" CreationDate="2018-11-29T23:02:05.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34031" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="479" RevisionGUID="30d5469c-56ae-4a41-8b77-f9659a134c1f" CreationDate="2018-11-30T04:04:55.927" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34032" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="74817db6-a3ba-4223-808e-a0a4c43e0ebb" CreationDate="2018-11-30T06:01:25.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10183" RevisionGUID="a54c6517-2909-4c66-af1f-ec2cbc62d7e5" CreationDate="2018-11-30T19:51:24.777" UserId="9084" Text="Your big problem is that you want it to have normal computer connections on the case, honestly.    &quot;Slim and Light&quot; is the main thing people look for when scoping out their laptop's casing, so even some ASUS Republic of Gamers laptops still only have two USB ports and very little else for connectivity. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend looking into a [Sager][1]. They specialize in customized gaming laptops, and most of the cases they use still appear to have the connections you requested.  Your size requirement is in your way on the RAM; 13&quot; and smaller machines have a lot of tech packed in a small space, and actual physical size of the motherboard is influencing the number of RAM slots you have available or even necessitating permanent integration.  The problem isn't the CPU having a limitation, but the motherboard's physical capacity. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sagernotebook.com/home.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10184" RevisionGUID="69447c88-01a5-4226-b231-46e42d188f94" CreationDate="2018-11-30T22:56:21.140" UserId="10249" Text="I love using trackballs on bed/couches as I don't need to worry about the surface at all. However, tablets are cutting down on usb-A ports and I don't want adapters hanging off my tablet so I'm looking for a Bluetooth trackball. It seems that the only options are the Logitech ergo mx and a Japanese trackball Nakabayashi. These are really expensive. Does anyone know if there are any cheaper alternatives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10184" RevisionGUID="69447c88-01a5-4226-b231-46e42d188f94" CreationDate="2018-11-30T22:56:21.140" UserId="10249" Text="Are there any budget Bluetooth trackballs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10184" RevisionGUID="69447c88-01a5-4226-b231-46e42d188f94" CreationDate="2018-11-30T22:56:21.140" UserId="10249" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10187" RevisionGUID="84b12327-806a-46f5-b2e8-d8295c88b55c" CreationDate="2018-12-01T15:13:30.313" UserId="10253" Text="A high school student with OCD needs a portable gadget that will display his Google Calendar (or something similar).  If it will allow him to *update* his calendar as well, that would be icing on the cake.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What it should **not** be able to do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send a photograph&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- look up information on the internet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send or receive chat messages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send email&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- place or receive phone calls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How would it get updated calendar information?  Perhaps wifi, perhaps USB, perhaps some sort of syncing procedure -- I'm a little vague about this.  Perhaps an adult could do a twice a day sync with a computer.  Would a Personal Digital Assistant fit the bill?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it would be smaller than a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We've tried a laptop with child safety filtering -- he manages to find loopholes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help with tagging would be greatly appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10187" RevisionGUID="84b12327-806a-46f5-b2e8-d8295c88b55c" CreationDate="2018-12-01T15:13:30.313" UserId="10253" Text="Need gadget to access calendar and nothing else" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10187" RevisionGUID="84b12327-806a-46f5-b2e8-d8295c88b55c" CreationDate="2018-12-01T15:13:30.313" UserId="10253" Text="&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10187" RevisionGUID="8463fa16-7700-4ac0-bd97-90eca251710b" CreationDate="2018-12-01T15:21:53.947" UserId="10253" Comment="added &quot;infrared&quot;" Text="A high school student with OCD needs a portable gadget that will display his Google Calendar (or something similar).  If it will allow him to *update* his calendar as well, that would be icing on the cake.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What it should **not** be able to do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send a photograph&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- look up information on the internet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send or receive chat messages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- send email&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- place or receive phone calls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How would it get updated calendar information?  Perhaps wifi, perhaps USB, perhaps infrared, perhaps some sort of syncing procedure -- I'm a little vague about this.  Perhaps an adult could do a twice a day sync with a computer.  Would a Personal Digital Assistant fit the bill?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it would be smaller than a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We've tried a laptop with child safety filtering -- he manages to find loopholes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help with tagging would be greatly appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34054" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10188" RevisionGUID="32d3bf0f-01bd-477f-aee0-b0a07d83bd6e" CreationDate="2018-12-01T16:02:44.050" UserId="6425" Text="I’ve found a product that I may want to purchase since I have spare M.2 SATA SSDs lying around:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech.com PEXM2SAT3422][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m hoping to find out if something better exists out on the market. Priorities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Takes more than one M.2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; 2. Does not require additional data (SATA) cables to be connected to the motherboard&#xD;&#xA; 3. Supports TRIM&#xD;&#xA; 4. Has Spanning/RAID-0 mode (multiple SSDs seen as one device)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Bandwidth of both drives combined&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Startech product mentioned before supports 1 to 5, but not all at once; RAID mode does not pass TRIM along to the underlying SSDs. So it seems that 3 and 4 are mutually exclusive there. The [Startech 25S22M2NGFFR][2] *does* support TRIM, but its bandwidth is gimped by the SATA interface, and it does not support TRIM for RAID-0 anyhow; spanning mode might be a different story, but there is no mention of TRIM support in that mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/HDD-Controllers/SATA-Cards/m2-raid-controller-card~PEXM2SAT3422&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Adapters/dual-m2-ssd-sata-adapter~25S22M2NGFFR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34055" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10188" RevisionGUID="32d3bf0f-01bd-477f-aee0-b0a07d83bd6e" CreationDate="2018-12-01T16:02:44.050" UserId="6425" Text="Performant M.2 SATA PCIe Adapter Card That Takes Multiple M.2 SSDs—Preferably RAID-capable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34056" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10188" RevisionGUID="32d3bf0f-01bd-477f-aee0-b0a07d83bd6e" CreationDate="2018-12-01T16:02:44.050" UserId="6425" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="d194e4e2-72d2-4fd4-a158-2e26d81fdb10" CreationDate="2018-12-01T20:15:55.777" UserId="10255" Text="&gt;Instead of asking for a comparison of two laptops, list out your requirements, budget, and use case(s) and we will find the best laptop that fits your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirement: large data set (&gt;80GB), 17 inch monitor &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use cases: run Matlab, R, Python, SAS for computation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: 2K-3K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 1: workstation laptop&#xD;&#xA;One candidate: Dell Inspiron 7500 (one system) has &#xD;&#xA;OpenCL Score 113610 https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/compute/653552&#xD;&#xA;Geekbench Score 14181 https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/7357889&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 2: workstation desktop and remote access&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advise. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="d194e4e2-72d2-4fd4-a158-2e26d81fdb10" CreationDate="2018-12-01T20:15:55.777" UserId="10255" Text="Laptop workstation recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="d194e4e2-72d2-4fd4-a158-2e26d81fdb10" CreationDate="2018-12-01T20:15:55.777" UserId="10255" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34072" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="c0c58016-acab-4dcc-bf95-61fbcd37164e" CreationDate="2018-12-02T05:02:40.527" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34073" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="5d0d5366-83c5-4d07-b34d-c36b87736055" CreationDate="2018-12-02T06:01:05.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10192" RevisionGUID="199ebac6-f1b4-4407-9b8a-d95cea5d570e" CreationDate="2018-12-02T08:35:03.010" UserId="9292" Text="After hours of searching online I found a device I'm going to give a shot. [Withings Pulse HR](https://www.withings.com/us/en/pulse-hr) seems to match the functionality expectations. Feels a bit pricy for the quality (based on the reviews), however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZdNk.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1dXs.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34075" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="5228baf3-e47f-4ae6-a166-bb589e77581e" CreationDate="2018-12-02T12:01:45.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10193" RevisionGUID="710f5296-7f09-4950-84db-63a0c5f1f36a" CreationDate="2018-12-02T12:11:18.317" UserId="10249" Text="I'm looking for a budget graphic tablet (something around £30) for my Ubuntu 18.04 OS. I can't get my current one (XP Pen G430) to work with Ubuntu. Which tablet brands have drivers that are well supported by Ubuntu?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34077" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10193" RevisionGUID="710f5296-7f09-4950-84db-63a0c5f1f36a" CreationDate="2018-12-02T12:11:18.317" UserId="10249" Text="Graphic Tablet For Ubuntu 18.04 Desktop PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34078" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10193" RevisionGUID="710f5296-7f09-4950-84db-63a0c5f1f36a" CreationDate="2018-12-02T12:11:18.317" UserId="10249" Text="&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34079" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="1219a496-4d53-4f56-a178-5f3ba70a85b8" CreationDate="2018-12-02T14:00:50.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10194" RevisionGUID="d9865fe7-b58e-4ca4-b771-1588d5bf3302" CreationDate="2018-12-02T16:50:42.887" UserId="10259" Text="Please recommend a TV that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Full HD resolution&#xD;&#xA;- Has a USB port&#xD;&#xA;- Has an HDMI port&#xD;&#xA;- Reliably turns on by itself after a power outage (either at all times or only if the outage happened when the TV was on)&#xD;&#xA;- Cuts power supply to its USB ports when it switches off&#xD;&#xA;- Can be mounted on a wall&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Smartness is not important, neither is the sound quality. Light weight is a plus, but otherwise the cheapest wins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UK market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We would like to buy several identical TVs to mount on walls to show non interactive dashboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each TV would have its own Raspberry Pi 3 Zero W connected to its USB port for the power (the Zero W is so lightweight that 500mA from a USB 2.0 is plenty to power it) and its HDMI port for the video signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each TV would be connected to a power socket with a timer, that would cut the power off during certain times of day. When the socket brings the power back on, the TV should start automatically, that powers on its USB ports, which switches the Raspberry Pi on, which provides the HDMI output for the TV to show.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have done a proof of concept, it works exactly as we want, but the TV won't start automatically when the power comes back, so need to use the remote each time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Researching this question on the Internet, I mostly see people *complaining* that their TV starts by itself when the power comes back, and in neither case it is clear whether it's actually a problem that the manufacturer would look into fixing or the intentional behaviour." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34083" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10194" RevisionGUID="d9865fe7-b58e-4ca4-b771-1588d5bf3302" CreationDate="2018-12-02T16:50:42.887" UserId="10259" Text="Full HD TV that will turn on automatically after a power outage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34084" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10194" RevisionGUID="d9865fe7-b58e-4ca4-b771-1588d5bf3302" CreationDate="2018-12-02T16:50:42.887" UserId="10259" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10150" RevisionGUID="9fb9c4b7-3ea0-46eb-a7a8-838555026307" CreationDate="2018-12-02T18:29:56.443" UserId="10213" Comment="added 234 characters in body" Text="## MOBO ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't fully understand all the subtle differences between different mobo models. I know 470x supports SLI and think b450 doesn't. I also know some mobo models have wifi, faster Ethernet and/or better sound and some have more USB ports/PCIE slots. Some even boast a better VRM heatsink (?), not sure if I should care? Also, some boards have negative core voltage and precision boost, I am guessing I shouldn't care cause these have to do with OC? Also, some VRMs are 10 phase (?) and some are 6 phase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I don't care about audio and I don't need fast Ethernet or wifi and I don't understand why I should invest in VRM, I am thinking of buying this model:&#xD;&#xA;**Asrock B450M-HDV**. Q: Are there any serious disadvantages to it? I am buying it cause it got nice reviews and it's very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other important feature I'm missing that I might want to consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## MEM ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to purchase Flare X AMD compatible DDR4. I don't understand what this compatibility means? Should I care about it?&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [Flare X (for AMD)] Designed for the latest AMD Ryzen™ processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am buying the 2400Mhz model. How much oomph do you get by opting for the 3200Mhz model?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## PSU ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to juice this thing with Corsair RM550x. It should be sufficient. Why should I care about PSU rating like platinum/titanium/gold/bronze? Do they matter? Why would anyone buy the expensive ones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main question is how do you distinguish between components that you can't benchmark with 3dmark or cinebench? How do you know they are &quot;better&quot; budget options? How is it measured? What is the added value? How significant is it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Purpose ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer will be used for occasional Blender rendering, video editing and mild amounts of gaming. I don't have a budget constrain but I want to hit the sweet spot where you get the best value for your money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34086" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="7360a031-94eb-41d1-90a0-9392ed6d7d09" CreationDate="2018-12-03T01:02:25.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34090" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="2c357cf0-dd5c-4da2-9bd4-f07dd5a95e59" CreationDate="2018-12-03T02:01:50.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34105" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="4cc27f54-083c-4d94-86f9-eefad5bd478f" CreationDate="2018-12-03T20:00:50.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34110" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="0e141547-73f1-4b81-a50b-846ba7f05534" CreationDate="2018-12-04T03:02:40.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="baa66ffb-cc3e-44b9-b122-1f4e78566d09" CreationDate="2018-12-04T07:31:02.573" UserId="1410" Comment="added 181 characters in body; edited title" Text="In order to build a vending machine, using [Multi Drop Bus][1] protocol, I need a board which will support a full 9 data-bit UART (with no bit stuffing, or tricks with the parity bit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need a few GPIO for driving motors, and the ability to connect an LED dispaly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - also supporting WiFi &#xD;&#xA; - supporting Linux&#xD;&#xA; - large user support community&#xD;&#xA; - good IDE&#xD;&#xA; - programmable in C&#xD;&#xA; - cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 9 bit UART should preferably be on-board, but a simple add-on, such as an Arduino shield, would be acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a lot of purported solutions using bit-banging, but would rather do it properly, as any problems with bit-banging would not be much fun to debug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Two years after originally posting, I wonder if anything new has appeared on the scene in the interim? Perhaps the idea of a shield/hat is the way to go?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34113" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="5694" RevisionGUID="baa66ffb-cc3e-44b9-b122-1f4e78566d09" CreationDate="2018-12-04T07:31:02.573" UserId="1410" Comment="added 181 characters in body; edited title" Text="Small, cheap processor with true 9 data-bit UART and drivers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34120" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10188" RevisionGUID="3fb3a6ea-c1d2-45cd-b5d2-f767a5e13f55" CreationDate="2018-12-04T18:48:18.623" UserId="6425" Comment="added 28 characters in body" Text="I’ve found a product that I may want to purchase since I have spare M.2 SATA SSDs lying around:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [StarTech.com PEXM2SAT3422][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m hoping to find out if something better exists out on the market. Priorities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Takes more than one M.2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; 2. Does not require additional data (SATA) cables to be connected to the motherboard&#xD;&#xA; 3. Supports TRIM&#xD;&#xA; 4. Has Spanning/RAID-0 mode (multiple SSDs seen as one device)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Bandwidth of both drives combined&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Startech product mentioned before supports 1 to 5, but not all at once; RAID mode does not pass TRIM along to the underlying SSDs. So it seems that 3 and 4 are mutually exclusive there. The [Startech 25S22M2NGFFR][2] *does* support TRIM, but its bandwidth is gimped by the SATA interface, and it does not support TRIM for RAID-0 anyhow; spanning mode is counted as “RAID” and StarTech says it does not support TRIM except in JBOD mode which is not what I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/HDD-Controllers/SATA-Cards/m2-raid-controller-card~PEXM2SAT3422&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Adapters/dual-m2-ssd-sata-adapter~25S22M2NGFFR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34139" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="6648d7bb-de7b-45b8-9574-b89b6d4bb2a7" CreationDate="2018-12-05T18:02:35.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34140" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="52b7a602-6aec-49c9-8e6f-951a5826b07b" CreationDate="2018-12-05T19:02:50.583" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34141" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="af3e7fbc-bebb-4d53-b456-1ea8f2938088" CreationDate="2018-12-05T22:01:15.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34148" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10209" RevisionGUID="4af90633-7053-40df-a38b-b8aea38a7942" CreationDate="2018-12-05T23:30:21.130" UserId="10277" Text="I wanna try to build something called a Physical Unclonable Function. It is some kind of hardware authentication feature. When the RAM is not getting refreshed it will decay and leave a pattern which is unique to the RAM in your cellphone. Therefor disabling is the first step.I have HTC 10 has lpddr4 as dram but how I can know its model: &quot;samsung&quot; , &quot;micron&quot; &quot;jedec&quot;  or something else?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34149" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10209" RevisionGUID="4af90633-7053-40df-a38b-b8aea38a7942" CreationDate="2018-12-05T23:30:21.130" UserId="10277" Text="HTC 10 DRAM model" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34150" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10209" RevisionGUID="4af90633-7053-40df-a38b-b8aea38a7942" CreationDate="2018-12-05T23:30:21.130" UserId="10277" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34151" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="51d37048-8564-4293-aa79-a85e02e808e8" CreationDate="2018-12-06T04:04:20.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10212" RevisionGUID="9f96aebd-1a8a-44b6-a75c-6a29999786a0" CreationDate="2018-12-06T13:09:36.730" UserId="9993" Text="Alright, there we go. Phones now have quite big storage capabilities, going up to hundreds of GBs, and even more with µSD cards. They are also more and more powerful, so a recent phone (like your Moto G6) should be totaly capable of going through your library.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just for curiosity, how much time does it take to launch shuffle mode with 150K songs ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10214" RevisionGUID="3247370a-8143-466d-b2b4-447f78579259" CreationDate="2018-12-06T16:57:30.073" UserId="10283" Text="I have an art installation I want to build that uses software written in Unity, implementing opencv and using a webcam, and displaying on some sort of inexpensive monitor. I can compile to Android/iOS/Linux. I was originally planning on using a raspberry pi, but Unity only compiles for the x86 architecture and I'd prefer not to use the android hack workarounds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's a good cheap microcomputer / microcontroller to use for this? Needs very little storage but ability to process realtime video with opencv. I don't need much storage. I saw the [Udoo x86][1], but ~$200 seems a bit expensive - was hoping to keep it around $50. Seems like intel maybe has some boards, or maybe I could just run it off a cheap phone if I could figure out how to output to the monitor. Any hardware recommendations are appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.udoo.org/udoo-x86/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34162" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10214" RevisionGUID="3247370a-8143-466d-b2b4-447f78579259" CreationDate="2018-12-06T16:57:30.073" UserId="10283" Text="Best low cost microcomputer for running Unity app + webcam" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34163" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10214" RevisionGUID="3247370a-8143-466d-b2b4-447f78579259" CreationDate="2018-12-06T16:57:30.073" UserId="10283" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34164" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10214" RevisionGUID="52cb067b-dd5c-46fe-bdc6-5da4ae048df5" CreationDate="2018-12-06T17:06:52.930" UserId="10283" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="I have an art installation I want to build that uses software written in Unity, implementing opencv and using a webcam, and displaying on some sort of inexpensive monitor. I can compile to Android/iOS/Linux. I was originally planning on using a raspberry pi, but Unity only compiles for the x86 architecture and I'd prefer not to use the android hack workarounds. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's a good cheap microcomputer / microcontroller to use for this? Needs very little storage but ability to process realtime video with opencv. I don't need much storage. I saw the [Udoo x86][1], but ~$200 seems a bit expensive - was hoping to keep it around $50. Seems like intel maybe has some boards, like the [Quark][2], but I wasn't sure how it would perform with the video. Or maybe I could just run it off a cheap phone if I could figure out how to output to the monitor. Any hardware recommendations are appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.udoo.org/udoo-x86/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/embedded/products/quark/mcu/d2000/overview.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34171" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10083" RevisionGUID="ea32bb6c-a1b6-4ec1-bcf4-5703358ff244" CreationDate="2018-12-07T00:32:21.277" UserId="10135" Comment="added 176 characters in body" Text="If your load is 470W, then even at 110V (worst-case scenario), you are using 4.3A.  According to [the AutoZone guide][1], even at the thinnest (18AWG) wire, you can run 13 Amps through it (which is &gt;3 times what you are using), and having it heat only to 150°F.  Therefore, you can run the 18AWG wire without any problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, when asking this, you should include the length of the power cable, and the temperature you'll use it in -- as it makes a huge difference.  For example, I had a 24AWG cable that could handle ~150A at below freezing, which is ~35 times as much as your scenario -- precisely because it is only a couple inches long.  One time I used it at above a freezing temperature, and it melted the isolation off of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/1c/02/e5/medium/0900c152801c02e5.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34172" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="604a1491-8b6a-4252-8add-02825bc54723" CreationDate="2018-12-07T01:01:10.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10217" RevisionGUID="904d66c0-61c9-4f7b-afa5-7c79b64fd0a9" CreationDate="2018-12-07T01:52:50.207" UserId="10288" Text="Preferably, it would screw in to an existing light socket.  RC car type frequencies/range (27-49MHz or so).   No wifi, please." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34174" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10217" RevisionGUID="904d66c0-61c9-4f7b-afa5-7c79b64fd0a9" CreationDate="2018-12-07T01:52:50.207" UserId="10288" Text="Remote control light socket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34175" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10217" RevisionGUID="904d66c0-61c9-4f7b-afa5-7c79b64fd0a9" CreationDate="2018-12-07T01:52:50.207" UserId="10288" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="fd99b207-338b-41cd-95fd-68ee4d122b46" CreationDate="2018-12-07T12:23:25.100" UserId="10289" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for typing and standard web browsing. My main focus is on the comfortable keyboard and that the laptop does not heat up. I will use this laptop mostly in public transport on my knees and I want it to be as cold as it can be. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - good keyboard &#xD;&#xA; - not heating up &#xD;&#xA; - screen size 12&quot; - 15&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - I'm happy to sacrifice performance for the temperature &amp; battery life&#xD;&#xA; - battery life - min 3 hours&#xD;&#xA; - good value for money, I can buy used laptop, but no older than 3 years&#xD;&#xA; - I will be using Ubuntu on it, so Chromium OS hardware is out&#xD;&#xA; - I don't need touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm using HP EliteBook 2560p (i5, 6GB RAM) and I am quite happy with it, but it's getting old, battery life is now weak and I need something new. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="fd99b207-338b-41cd-95fd-68ee4d122b46" CreationDate="2018-12-07T12:23:25.100" UserId="10289" Text="Laptop for web browsing &amp; typing that does not heat up" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="fd99b207-338b-41cd-95fd-68ee4d122b46" CreationDate="2018-12-07T12:23:25.100" UserId="10289" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34182" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="a2af937e-d3ec-40b4-9b61-27b998dcf5ec" CreationDate="2018-12-07T14:01:55.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34183" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="302eb59b-3995-47dc-bcfb-800d768c10ff" CreationDate="2018-12-07T16:01:55.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34184" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="9e0f4bb7-34df-4108-9a59-f22cc34ec378" CreationDate="2018-12-07T17:02:00.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34185" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10209" RevisionGUID="a706b5cb-b567-44c0-b382-7025f394be44" CreationDate="2018-12-07T17:12:40.873" UserId="60" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="34186" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10142" RevisionGUID="bf21d88d-2b54-4a3c-864c-db9aee3681d0" CreationDate="2018-12-07T17:13:08.297" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="34191" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="3702b207-f0a8-4676-9c76-274cfcd7ca42" CreationDate="2018-12-07T20:02:45.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10219" RevisionGUID="0e9683d2-d311-4329-b53c-0efff0d34bd6" CreationDate="2018-12-07T20:51:21.103" UserId="9587" Text="As a user of Asus ZenBook Flip S I can advocate for it, as it has all of the features you are asking for and is also quite convenient to use even on public transport. It's heat is barely noticeable as it has a 15W i7-8550u CPU, which, by the way, is about 88% faster than second generation i5. The keyboard is quite nice, as for me and the battery can last for 6 hours of moderate use. It works fine with Linux, but last I checked it lacked driver support for it's fingerprint reader in Ubuntu, although it might be available in newer packages.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/2-in-1-PCs/ASUS-ZenBook-Flip-S-UX370UA/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.notebookcheck-ru.com/typo3temp/_processed_/8/a/csm_asus_4_9c46de186c.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other than that, I have heard good reviews about other Asus ZenBooks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But keep in mind that laptops with even lower TDP Celeron CPU's exist, like Chuwi Lapbook SE with a 6W Celeron N4100, but it's performance might be even worse than that of your laptop, thus **I personally** wouldn't recommend them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10221" RevisionGUID="cc4ade21-e1c7-4e1f-9129-d54e23aff782" CreationDate="2018-12-07T21:08:24.230" UserId="9587" Text="There are microcomputers I suggested in another similar question, and unless your cam needs a specific connector you can choose from those:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UP Core - https://up-shop.org/up-core/271-up-core.html &#xD;&#xA;1-4 GB RAM, 16-64 GB eMMC storage, Intel Atom X5 Z8350, 99$USD for cheapest options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS Computer Stick VivoStick - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883221244 &#xD;&#xA;2 GB RAM, 32 GB eMMC, Intel Atom X5 Z8350, 119$USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10222" RevisionGUID="2e849600-89ef-40d1-9963-428ca8f3c1ca" CreationDate="2018-12-07T21:27:16.197" UserId="9825" Text="Would 310MHz be acceptable? If so, the well-developed [X10 system][1] may be useful. An [introduction is available][2]. [Lamp socket][3] modules [are available.][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X10_(industry_standard)&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.x10.com/x10-basics.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.x10.com/x10-home-automation/modules/lm15a.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&amp;field-keywords=x10%20lamp%20module%20screw-in&amp;rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Ax10%20lamp%20module%20screw-in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10224" RevisionGUID="e41e472d-8f22-4985-8216-d2036b736e82" CreationDate="2018-12-07T21:46:11.763" UserId="9587" Text="I would recommend setting up a small headless workstation, which can be even as small as an HTPC but house Ryzen 2700x on a mini-ITX motherboard and using a laptop to connect to it either using Remote Desktop or ssh, since I have a similar setup and it is quite convenient to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34204" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="f93af01c-1e42-48ad-b11e-e656abf58034" CreationDate="2018-12-08T01:01:30.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34211" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="448be66b-51dd-441d-bef4-25a7f1318d83" CreationDate="2018-12-08T04:04:40.897" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34212" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10224" RevisionGUID="b2225b30-b07e-4bb1-92d4-cbe757f06bc2" CreationDate="2018-12-08T09:29:29.193" UserId="9587" Comment="Improved quality, added recommendation" Text="I would recommend setting up a small headless workstation, which can be even as small as an HTPC but house Ryzen 2700x on a mini-ITX motherboard and using a laptop to connect to it either using Remote Desktop or ssh, since I have a similar setup and it is quite convenient to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example you can build workstation with following components:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG STRIX B450-I GAMING AM4 AMD B450 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI Mini ITX AMD Motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119143&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX4M2L3200C16:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236315&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 1TB NVMe PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V6E1T0BW:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K54C9643&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SILVERSTONE SFX Series SST-ST30SF-V2 300W SFX 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256175&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MITXPC MX500 Industrial Fanless Mini-ITX Case w/ WallMount Bracket &amp; VESA Screws:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB944MW9009&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And you can use a laptop of your choice, like Asus ZenBook or Lenovo Thinkpad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34225" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="f2d1f661-f55d-4ad4-ae1d-c549404538ca" CreationDate="2018-12-08T22:02:45.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34230" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="2c1fbc77-0b07-45e0-a13e-9dbccb47e306" CreationDate="2018-12-09T03:03:25.637" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="1f20d9b1-a781-49da-bbe9-137e27b47794" CreationDate="2018-12-09T13:01:05.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34235" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="cdbec648-d8b2-4f05-85e0-23b72b933bce" CreationDate="2018-12-09T16:03:00.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34236" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10230" RevisionGUID="4509f849-ab8e-49c8-941f-dbc7ac49378b" CreationDate="2018-12-09T17:12:58.290" UserId="9816" Text="Is there a type of hardware spec on a CPU or any way in general to achieve this:  I'd like to take 4k video from an external source and input it directly into the GPU of my computer so I can avoid the &quot;upload&quot; time to the GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34237" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10230" RevisionGUID="4509f849-ab8e-49c8-941f-dbc7ac49378b" CreationDate="2018-12-09T17:12:58.290" UserId="9816" Text="4k Video direct to GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34238" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10230" RevisionGUID="4509f849-ab8e-49c8-941f-dbc7ac49378b" CreationDate="2018-12-09T17:12:58.290" UserId="9816" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10231" RevisionGUID="7304e16f-55c7-44bf-857d-88e97f5d8550" CreationDate="2018-12-09T23:16:27.257" UserId="10229" Text="I'm looking for PC horizontal case that will fit into this [![Furniture hole][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is hard to find one. So I'm looking for the horizontal PC case that will support:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- front intake 140mm fans with dust filter&#xD;&#xA;- back 140mm fan for output hot air (with optional dust filter too)&#xD;&#xA;- front optionally should have the possibility to add at least 280mm or longer radiator for water cooling.&#xD;&#xA;- the case must be working in horizontal mode&#xD;&#xA;- it could be nice if I have in front power button and some usb 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;- should fit into this hole and occupy as much space as possible&#xD;&#xA;- should support micro-atx and mini atx&#xD;&#xA;- should support normal atx power supply with length at least 180mm&#xD;&#xA;- the case should have maximized height so I can put on my CPU 150mm height cooler.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not interested in led's, glass panels at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advices?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByJfL.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34240" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10231" RevisionGUID="7304e16f-55c7-44bf-857d-88e97f5d8550" CreationDate="2018-12-09T23:16:27.257" UserId="10229" Text="Looking for horizontal PC Case that fits into this furniture" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34241" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10231" RevisionGUID="7304e16f-55c7-44bf-857d-88e97f5d8550" CreationDate="2018-12-09T23:16:27.257" UserId="10229" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34242" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="3ed0a557-dd70-4c86-bb7f-ee797c0a060b" CreationDate="2018-12-10T00:03:05.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="ba69ba69-73e8-4f4c-937e-be3e6a5a200d" CreationDate="2018-12-10T04:30:39.147" UserId="275" Text="I'm a professional web developer - and I'm looking at buying a new laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common tasks I'm doing are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Running webpack dev server&#xD;&#xA;- Running jest tests&#xD;&#xA;- Running nodemon&#xD;&#xA;- Building docker images&#xD;&#xA;- Having Slack/Multiple Chrome Windows/VSCode/Spotify open at the same time. &#xD;&#xA;- Potentially running a VirtualBox VM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current pain points are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Waiting for webpack to recompile and reload (might take 2-10 seconds, and I'm really looking to make this as little as possible).&#xD;&#xA;- Computer starts maxing out CPU if I'm running dev server and jest and other things at the sametime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can see - [webpack only runs on a single thread][1] while [Jest tests will run in paralell][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is - if I'm looking at a high-end laptop which kind of processor do I need to be looking at? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are some of the newer i9/threadripper type CPUs going to be good for the single threaded processing - or should I be sticking to something like an i7? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any benchmarks that most closely approximate running webpack dev server and jest tests? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/webpack/webpack/issues/1679&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39831961/are-tests-inside-one-file-run-in-parallel-in-jest" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="ba69ba69-73e8-4f4c-937e-be3e6a5a200d" CreationDate="2018-12-10T04:30:39.147" UserId="275" Text="Processor type for web development (webpack dev server, jest tests, node, docker building) - High clock speed vs multiple cores?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="ba69ba69-73e8-4f4c-937e-be3e6a5a200d" CreationDate="2018-12-10T04:30:39.147" UserId="275" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34269" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="189061d6-f6aa-4f90-b402-e60359cee1d3" CreationDate="2018-12-10T23:13:18.057" UserId="275" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="I'm a professional web developer - and I'm looking at buying a new laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common tasks I'm doing are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Running webpack dev server&#xD;&#xA;- Running jest tests&#xD;&#xA;- Running nodemon&#xD;&#xA;- Building docker images&#xD;&#xA;- Having Slack/Multiple Chrome Windows/VSCode/Spotify open at the same time. &#xD;&#xA;- Potentially running a VirtualBox VM. &#xD;&#xA;- I use Ubuntu 18.04. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current pain points are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Waiting for webpack to recompile and reload (might take 2-10 seconds, and I'm really looking to make this as little as possible).&#xD;&#xA;- Computer starts maxing out CPU if I'm running dev server and jest and other things at the sametime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can see - [webpack only runs on a single thread][1] while [Jest tests will run in paralell][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is - if I'm looking at a high-end laptop which kind of processor do I need to be looking at? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are some of the newer i9/threadripper type CPUs going to be good for the single threaded processing - or should I be sticking to something like an i7? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any benchmarks that most closely approximate running webpack dev server and jest tests? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/webpack/webpack/issues/1679&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39831961/are-tests-inside-one-file-run-in-parallel-in-jest" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34274" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="f2d9aaf9-dc99-4ebc-8c9f-89a96f7a5809" CreationDate="2018-12-11T04:03:50.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34275" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="83987daf-89e1-4328-bf70-d6450300176a" CreationDate="2018-12-11T10:02:25.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34276" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="3c6d2dfa-fa43-4d33-81b2-7df0390086a7" CreationDate="2018-12-11T11:02:50.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10237" RevisionGUID="9d404138-b5ac-4d5a-bd70-b2cd78236456" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:06:51.997" UserId="4762" Text="I have this two components that support ECC memory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* AMD RYZEN 3 1200&#xD;&#xA;* AMD RYZEN MSI B450M PRO-M2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand I have this memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4 GB DDR4 2400 KINGSTON VALUE CL17&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Questions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Are they going to work together well?&#xD;&#xA;* How ECC memory affects to performance? Is this going to work slower in this case?&#xD;&#xA;* Will the opposite case work? A motherboard and CPU that do not support ECC memory with an ECC memory?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34278" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10237" RevisionGUID="9d404138-b5ac-4d5a-bd70-b2cd78236456" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:06:51.997" UserId="4762" Text="Will a non-ECC memory work with motherboard and CPU that supports ECC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34279" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10237" RevisionGUID="9d404138-b5ac-4d5a-bd70-b2cd78236456" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:06:51.997" UserId="4762" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10238" RevisionGUID="d3e531e8-a909-4cac-ada0-b6bcb0908ead" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:30:14.927" UserId="9993" Text="Yes, it does work together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, this motherboard will run both ECC and non ECC ram (always in non ECC mode though) according to [AnandTech](https://www.anandtech.com/show/13091/analyzing-b450-for-amd-ryzen-a-quick-look-at-all-the-motherboards/21).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Will the opposite case work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depends. ECC unbuffered memory *should* work on non ECC memory, from [LinusTechTips](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/669767-using-ecc-in-a-non-ecc-board/)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34284" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10240" RevisionGUID="3a8a3c55-fc1a-4fcd-8636-6c8fe60773d1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:47:08.773" UserId="10310" Text="I currently cannot boot my PC due to an incompatible memory. &#xD;&#xA;I am looking for ECC ram compatible with these components: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AMD RYZEN5 2600&#xD;&#xA;- Asus X470-PLUS GAMING&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know the motherboard and the CPU can run ECC memory, but apparently I am not able to find a memory *really* compatible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Crucial CT8G4RFS4266 8Go (DDR4, 2666 MT/s, PC4-21300, SR x4, ECC, Registered) &#xD;&#xA;- Kingston KVR21R15D8/8 RAM 8Go (2133MHz DDR4 ECC Reg CL15)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am pretty sure it is the RAM causing problems, since with other DIMMs it boots seamlessly. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34285" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10240" RevisionGUID="3a8a3c55-fc1a-4fcd-8636-6c8fe60773d1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:47:08.773" UserId="10310" Text="Asus X470 compatibility with ECC RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34286" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10240" RevisionGUID="3a8a3c55-fc1a-4fcd-8636-6c8fe60773d1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:47:08.773" UserId="10310" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10241" RevisionGUID="38cb36be-75cf-4e18-a765-5abce118fbe8" CreationDate="2018-12-11T21:51:04.060" UserId="912" Text="On a laptop, I would recommend an i7 8th gen for your use case. These CPUs are 4 cores for the U (low power), and 6 cores for the H (high performance) series. They have decent single thread performance (only desktop CPUs would have better single thread performance), and have enough cores such that they work very well for multi threaded workloads as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend the ThinkPad T and P series, to be specific the T480/T480s or the P52/P52s. Generally for most development, a T480 or T480s would suffice (note: the &quot;s&quot; variant is thinner and lighter, but sacrifices the removable battery). But if you want the fastest performance, go for the P52. Make sure you use an SSD and not a hard drive because that will make a lot of difference in the performance of the machine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10242" RevisionGUID="fdbcf23a-5808-465d-af7c-33b3fc368df6" CreationDate="2018-12-11T23:28:38.270" UserId="10311" Text="The [PiJuice HAT][1] includes a battery solution for the Pi, and has a built-in RTC. There's additional features/add-ons available as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://uk.pi-supply.com/products/pijuice-standard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34292" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="5e8131b5-a7fd-4184-b31f-aa8ea95acd10" CreationDate="2018-12-12T00:03:40.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34293" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="10100b85-273d-44f5-a0aa-2e4f4171f847" CreationDate="2018-12-12T01:01:40.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34295" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="441db43e-1c3f-4f35-92f7-04f5375a4768" CreationDate="2018-12-12T02:20:06.770" UserId="275" Comment="added 271 characters in body" Text="I'm a professional web developer - and I'm looking at buying a new laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common tasks I'm doing are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Running webpack dev server&#xD;&#xA;- Running jest tests&#xD;&#xA;- Running nodemon&#xD;&#xA;- Building docker images&#xD;&#xA;- Having Slack/Multiple Chrome Windows/VSCode/Spotify open at the same time. &#xD;&#xA;- Potentially running a VirtualBox VM. &#xD;&#xA;- I use Ubuntu 18.04. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current pain points are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Waiting for webpack to recompile and reload (might take 2-10 seconds, and I'm really looking to make this as little as possible).&#xD;&#xA;- Computer starts maxing out CPU if I'm running dev server and jest and other things at the sametime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can see - [webpack only runs on a single thread][1] while [Jest tests will run in paralell][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is - if I'm looking at a high-end laptop which kind of processor do I need to be looking at? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are some of the newer i9/threadripper type CPUs going to be good for the single threaded processing - or should I be sticking to something like an i7? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any benchmarks that most closely approximate running webpack dev server and jest tests? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an additional consideration - how relevant is the GPU? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it currently stands - it looks like the computer I'll be getting will be some kind of gaming computer - just because those are the most cost effective for processor, memory, SSD etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming computers put a lot of emphasis of the GPU - and I'm wondering for that extra $200 kind of thing, how much value I'll be getting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs are relevant in some aspects of computing (like machine learning, which to be honest, I'm not likely to be getting into), and that some GPUs have the ability to share CPU load. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Are there any GPUs/types of GPUs I should be looking out for? &#xD;&#xA;- Are there any tasks I should be aware of where I good GPU would be good? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/webpack/webpack/issues/1679&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39831961/are-tests-inside-one-file-run-in-parallel-in-jest" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34296" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10232" RevisionGUID="14831989-3d28-4839-a74a-59e9871ed7ff" CreationDate="2018-12-12T02:25:31.350" UserId="275" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I'm a professional web developer - and I'm looking at buying a new laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common tasks I'm doing are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Running webpack dev server&#xD;&#xA;- Running jest tests&#xD;&#xA;- Running nodemon&#xD;&#xA;- Building docker images&#xD;&#xA;- Having Slack/Multiple Chrome Windows/VSCode/Spotify open at the same time. &#xD;&#xA;- Potentially running a VirtualBox VM. &#xD;&#xA;- I use Ubuntu 18.04. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current pain points are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Waiting for webpack to recompile and reload (might take 2-10 seconds, and I'm really looking to make this as little as possible).&#xD;&#xA;- Computer starts maxing out CPU if I'm running dev server and jest and other things at the sametime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can see - [webpack only runs on a single thread][1] while [Jest tests will run in paralell][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is - if I'm looking at a high-end laptop which kind of processor do I need to be looking at? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are some of the newer i9/threadripper type CPUs going to be good for the single threaded processing - or should I be sticking to something like an i7? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any benchmarks that most closely approximate running webpack dev server and jest tests? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As an additional consideration - how relevant is the GPU? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it currently stands - it looks like the computer I'll be getting will be some kind of gaming computer - just because those are the most cost effective for processor, memory, SSD etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming computers put a lot of emphasis of the GPU - and I'm wondering for that extra $200 kind of thing, how much value I'll be getting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that GPUs are relevant in some aspects of computing (like machine learning, which to be honest, I'm not likely to be getting into), and that some GPUs have the ability to share CPU load. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Are there any GPUs/types of GPUs I should be looking out for? &#xD;&#xA;- Are there any tasks I should be aware of where a good GPU would provide value? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/webpack/webpack/issues/1679&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39831961/are-tests-inside-one-file-run-in-parallel-in-jest" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10245" RevisionGUID="be353dde-6750-469e-8291-b3412a677dfa" CreationDate="2018-12-12T08:00:13.323" UserId="9993" Text="Your motherboard does support ECC memory, but probably not registered. If you absolutly want ECC memory, try to find ECC Unbuffered memory, like [Crucial CT16G4WFD824A](https://www.crucial.fr/fra/fr/poweredge-t130/CT8102846) for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FIY, another related question that was asked yesterday, https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10237/will-a-non-ecc-memory-work-with-motherboard-and-cpu-that-supports-ecc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34304" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="da595e91-3422-458a-9b39-6ffeccadfba1" CreationDate="2018-12-12T09:03:10.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="9468df9e-66d4-42af-a501-9ccd493e13e2" CreationDate="2018-12-12T14:02:40.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34311" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="eb768a4f-7e7b-4731-b5f4-1e3e04040f9e" CreationDate="2018-12-12T19:02:45.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34312" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="4f7c9d1d-e346-4443-9339-ebe51ad525de" CreationDate="2018-12-12T21:01:30.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34314" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="1d2f4c8a-5af8-4910-9972-70b9ed59cfd8" CreationDate="2018-12-12T23:02:00.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10249" RevisionGUID="38fc1d7d-0d0f-4685-bff6-9068b66d9538" CreationDate="2018-12-13T06:42:48.093" UserId="10312" Text="I am looking for a motherboard that supports hardware RAID for&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    NVMe M.2 2280 PCI-Express 3.0 x4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;cards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10249" RevisionGUID="38fc1d7d-0d0f-4685-bff6-9068b66d9538" CreationDate="2018-12-13T06:42:48.093" UserId="10312" Text="Motherboard that supports hardware RAID for M.2 PCIe Gen3 x4 cards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10249" RevisionGUID="38fc1d7d-0d0f-4685-bff6-9068b66d9538" CreationDate="2018-12-13T06:42:48.093" UserId="10312" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34329" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9821" RevisionGUID="9bdd48bf-d718-44cc-ad55-2f711409d309" CreationDate="2018-12-13T12:38:36.160" UserId="9895" Comment="edited body" Text="OK, three part answers:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unaware of SPF(+) to copper interfaces. That does not mean that they do not exits.   &#xD;&#xA;If they do exist then compatability is not a guarantee, so a call to HP is probably a good idea. If only to get an article number to search further on, since I expect the HP price to be 'not low'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the goal that you just need two additional 1 GbE ports:  &#xD;&#xA;Swap the card. PCI-e cards with 2 or even 4 interface to regular copper are common, relative cheap and just work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I linked to two potential cards, but theere are many more than just these two:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I/O Crest 4 Port Gigabit Ethernet Intel i350-AM4 Chipset PCI-E X4][2]  &#xD;&#xA;Mentions server 2012 support on the box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quad 1GBit [Intel PRO/1000 VT Quad Port Server Adapter LP PCI-E EXPI9404VT ][3]  &#xD;&#xA;2 more ports and is still affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For future compatability and less down time (e.g. not swapping to a newer card if you get a more capable switch in the next year or two), try regular copper cards with higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are now desktop cards which support old format (100/1000mbit), but also 2&amp;frac12;Gbit, 5Gbit and 10Gbit. Those could be used at the old speed with the current switch, and with a more modern switch you could do higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Some more notes:  &#xD;&#xA;We have at least two generations of these cards already, and that the older ones draw a relative high amount of power. That makes this a trade off between adding a classic 1GBit multiport card now and upgrading later. Or spending a relative large amount now and having less downtime later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Modern DP proliants (G9 or G10) often come with something called 'flexible LOM', where you can choose for native 10Gbit rather than for a few 1Gbit ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- deleted. Those were SPF and that was explicitly NOT the question --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quick googling finds a few examples of 10Gbit copper, but at not entirely trivial prices.  [![Two examples][1]][1] One of which seems suitable for a server with high internal airflow and no single point of failure fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And as always: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Check what fits (Full height? Low height?),&#xD;&#xA; - Check for drivers for your OS.&#xD;&#xA; - Check for known compatability issues (sometimes servers are a lot more sensitive)&#xD;&#xA; - And check if you have any special needs. E.g. explicit support for the cards in ESX is something I would mention if you not already told use you used Windows server 2012.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PmH1z.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://I/O%20Crest%204%20Port%20Gigabit%20Ethernet%20Intel%20i350-AM4%20Chipset%20PCI-E%20X4%20Network%20Interface%20Card%20NIC&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Server-Adapter-EXPI9404VT/dp/B002JLKNIW/ref=pd_sbs_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B002JLKNIW&amp;pd_rd_r=57419414-c4cf-11e8-bcaa-d5dbd61d2792&amp;pd_rd_w=WlqYZ&amp;pd_rd_wg=MKwIQ&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&amp;pf_rd_r=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=68N185XVFWKFF0YYWG1F" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34330" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="9b749417-37c9-4028-a281-298ebeabd06f" CreationDate="2018-12-13T14:01:45.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34331" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="ea4a321f-dd0d-453a-96df-415bd0f14d33" CreationDate="2018-12-13T15:00:40.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34332" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="07e2b884-3b58-4699-8909-71db096b2e3c" CreationDate="2018-12-13T17:03:25.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34336" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="75c71122-9ea9-40b9-98f6-db1ae1967c0b" CreationDate="2018-12-14T06:00:45.163" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10252" RevisionGUID="4fb73c2f-6141-4362-a660-485bdeb136ae" CreationDate="2018-12-14T08:33:58.397" UserId="4101" Text="I usually try to be pretty vague, but I think details will help here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My wife needs a mobile device that she can put in her clipboard and take with her at work. She works in schools (at district level) and sometimes needs to show technical information to teachers. However, her job has her covering more than one school location, all subject areas and all grades. Printing out this information and bringing it along wouldn't be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Her issued laptop is too bulky to walk around all day with and the organization will not be providing this hardware. So I will be procuring it and setting it up for her.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**File Management might look something *like* this**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     1)	ALL FILES&#xD;&#xA;       A) Elementary School&#xD;&#xA;         i) First Grade&#xD;&#xA;            (1) Science.pdf&#xD;&#xA;            (2) Math.pdf&#xD;&#xA;            (3) Reading.pdf&#xD;&#xA;         ii) Second Grade&#xD;&#xA;            (1)	Science.pdf&#xD;&#xA;            ..etc&#xD;&#xA;      B)  Middle School&#xD;&#xA;      C)  High School&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Probably no larger than 10&quot; screen, keep it light but still easy to read&#xD;&#xA; - Easily used file explorer&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of loading &amp; rendering the pdf files (Maybe other file types, but not necessary)&#xD;&#xA; - Hopefully easy to back out of the pdf files to the file explorer to select another pdf file&#xD;&#xA; - Decent battery life - it doesn't need to last a week on standby or anything, but charging it everyday wouldn't be great&#xD;&#xA; - I'll load the files on locally &#xD;&#xA; - I think it would need to be able to show color on screen&#xD;&#xA; - Touch screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Non-requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - She won't be able to get on wifi in the secure environments so that's a non-issue&#xD;&#xA; - Audio isn't important&#xD;&#xA; - Peripherals aren't important, no need to have a keyboard or anything&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If need be, I can load an O/S on whatever device, if that's what's best, as long as it remains simple to use. She is tech savvy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not really sure on budget, just something that would work. Cheaper is better, maybe keep it under $300 USD.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34339" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10252" RevisionGUID="4fb73c2f-6141-4362-a660-485bdeb136ae" CreationDate="2018-12-14T08:33:58.397" UserId="4101" Text="Tablet with easily used file explorer for loading pdf files" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34340" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10252" RevisionGUID="4fb73c2f-6141-4362-a660-485bdeb136ae" CreationDate="2018-12-14T08:33:58.397" UserId="4101" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10253" RevisionGUID="a7f2cdc7-7685-470e-845e-2d82a61ed59f" CreationDate="2018-12-14T10:04:20.263" UserId="9993" Text="File explorer, PDF reader, etc, are not issues for nowadays tablets, every single one can do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you're looking for a tablet around 10&quot; with a good battery life, Huawei Mediapad M5 Lite could be great. I bet it is even totally overkill for just displaying some PDF files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A ~120-140 USD tablet would still be more than enough, like a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 2016 or a Lenovo Tab 4 10.1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then install a decent file explorer like ES Explorer or whatever you want, and a PDF reader if it does not have one already, and that's done." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34345" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="a489edbb-a5a6-4b26-9e31-a1f917ab8bed" CreationDate="2018-12-14T14:03:30.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10256" RevisionGUID="56a5be0f-4b84-4449-b107-11d1ac6b6af7" CreationDate="2018-12-14T16:36:33.080" UserId="10326" Text="I am looking for a single board computer to discover the possibility of using them as a computing unit to support my laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try four or five of those SBCs and use them for scientific computations, and communicate the data to my laptop for visualization via ethernet cable. The platform should be able to run python, c, fortran and latex codes. I would like to have 10GB of free disk space to write data on each one of the SBCs after installations. Memory is typically the bottleneck during the computations. No WIFI, GPIO, HDMI, USB3.0 etc. is needed on SBCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to start with a budget around $300-$500 and I would like to know if somebody already tried it and could recommend me a SBC brand or specification and share some experience to help me start. The questions in my mind for the moment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - which linux distribution to achieve this with minimum ram and disk space&#xD;&#xA; - is SBCs of today make it reasonable to try this (LPDDRs, CPUs)&#xD;&#xA; - how to parallelise SBCs,&#xD;&#xA; - how to design the cooling system&#xD;&#xA;etc..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After a survey, I have three options in December 2018: [Rock64][1], [omega2][2], [parallella][3] but I am not sure if any of these are good for my project or if I am missing something…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this question helps many others who wants to start this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pine64.org/?product=rock64-media-board-computer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://onion.io/omega2/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.parallella.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10256" RevisionGUID="56a5be0f-4b84-4449-b107-11d1ac6b6af7" CreationDate="2018-12-14T16:36:33.080" UserId="10326" Text="Single board computer to support laptop for scientific computations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34357" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10256" RevisionGUID="56a5be0f-4b84-4449-b107-11d1ac6b6af7" CreationDate="2018-12-14T16:36:33.080" UserId="10326" Text="&lt;cluster-computing&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10258" RevisionGUID="4af965c1-a3e7-45bd-b6b7-b3f583c8cab9" CreationDate="2018-12-15T06:48:09.257" UserId="10327" Text="As you mention that memory is a bottleneck in your computations I would imagine that the rock64 is the best solution with 4gb of memory.  &#xA;If you want to make a cluster of these you will have to do some work creating a frame, compact power supply and integrate a network switch.&#xA;&#xA;If you want a small high performance server with a lot of memory to do computations on I'd go with a single [intel NUC][1].&#xA;&#xA;But if you are looking for a cheap and simple way to get into cluster computing and experimentation I'd advice looking into a raspberry pi combined with the cluster hat.&#xA;&#xA;This set up would consist of the following:&#xA; &#xA; - 1 x [Raspberry pi 3 B+][2] (4C 1.4GHz, 1GB RAM)&#xA; - 4 x [Raspberry Pi zero][3] (1C 1GHz, 512MB RAM) &#xA; - 1 x [Cluster hat][4]&#xA; - 5 x MicroSD card, as big as needed for each pi (8GB is more than enough for basic running)&#xA; - Optionally, [Cluster hat case][5]&#xA;&#xA;I have no experience with this set up yet but am planning to buy it at the end of this month so I have done my research.&#xA;&#xA;The good bits:&#xA;&#xA; - Runs on a number of [operating systems][6] (raspbian linux is most common) and has a large community.&#xA; - It's a palm sized 5 node cluster.&#xA; - Everything powers from a single 2.5A USB power supply.&#xA; - USB based networking and addressing integrated.&#xA; - The Raspberry Pi 3 b+ has wireless connectivity build in (connect to your existing network or set up as access point for your cluster)&#xA; - possibility to upgrade to pi zero W's to add wireless networking between nodes or to other networks.&#xA; - No need to worry about cooling too much.&#xA; - Bluetooth. (Everything's better with Bluetooth)&#xA;&#xA;The down sides:&#xA;&#xA; - [The perfomance of the 4 pi zero's combined is half of a regular raspberry pi 3b+][7] but bear in mind that this is an experimentation/learning setup.&#xA; - Limited memory (3GB total)&#xA; - Limited cpu cores (8 Total)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc.html&#xA;  [2]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-plus/&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-zero/&#xA;  [4]: https://clusterhat.com&#xA;  [5]: https://www.modmypi.com/raspberry-pi/cases-183/raspberry-pi-b-plus2-and-3-cases-1122/cases-for-hats-and-boards-1133/cluster-hat-case&#xA;  [6]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/&#xA;  [7]: https://climbers.net/sbc/clusterhat-review-raspberry-pi-zero/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34367" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="6e2e28d1-3556-4f0c-acdc-267dc9e88217" CreationDate="2018-12-15T07:34:10.797" UserId="10305" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34368" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="6e2e28d1-3556-4f0c-acdc-267dc9e88217" CreationDate="2018-12-15T07:34:10.797" Comment="Proposed by 10305 approved by -1 edit id of 781" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34369" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="153" RevisionGUID="5547535b-7950-49cf-8f7e-7bd814ce4f49" CreationDate="2018-12-15T07:34:10.797" UserId="7556" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10259" RevisionGUID="c7edc5b3-f4b4-4688-a77d-628c68dc807e" CreationDate="2018-12-15T08:00:05.247" UserId="7556" Text="# Just buy the MX Ergo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, trackballs are a fairly narrow market with not a ton of demand; unsurprisingly, this means that prices aren't exactly the most competitive. Finding something cheaper than the $50 Nakabayashi mouse with Bluetooth unfortunately is a rather tall order, and unfortunately, hackey solutions like converting a wired mouse to wireless or converting proprietary wireless signals just aren't practical—both in terms of price and the end product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ergo may not be the cheapest mouse, but you're getting a solid mouse for that money. My (albeit limited) experience with their gaming and MX Master mice has been extremely favorable—something that's reflected in numerous reviews. Given how much time you're likely to spend with a mouse, IMO, it's worth getting something good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're still uncomfortable with the price, you can [monitor for sales](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JMw7YJ/logitech-mx-ergo-wireless-optical-mouse-910-005177) or consider buying [used](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_Sold=1&amp;_udlo&amp;_udhi&amp;_samilow&amp;_samihi&amp;_sadis=15&amp;_stpos=97291&amp;_sop=12&amp;_dmd=1&amp;_ipg=50&amp;LH_Complete=1&amp;_fosrp=1&amp;_nkw=mx%20ergo&amp;_dcat=23160&amp;rt=nc&amp;LH_ItemCondition=3000&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m1684), both of which should net you some savings." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34375" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="dea99e59-58ed-49a3-90d1-500cc2c97e86" CreationDate="2018-12-15T17:02:30.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10260" RevisionGUID="83a88030-f591-4b9f-b66a-07d39fe5f057" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:11:14.360" UserId="10135" Text="I recently found out my dad struggles with wasting time at work, and wanted a phone without apps.  But the issue is, he uses his phone at work to take pictures; so he needs a camera with a large screen.  Is there something that can work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34377" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10260" RevisionGUID="83a88030-f591-4b9f-b66a-07d39fe5f057" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:11:14.360" UserId="10135" Text="A large-display camera without apps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34378" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10260" RevisionGUID="83a88030-f591-4b9f-b66a-07d39fe5f057" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:11:14.360" UserId="10135" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10261" RevisionGUID="caedb8bc-a8ab-4096-9b41-7f9e7b2a7a75" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:11:14.360" UserId="10135" Text="After looking through the list of all cameras out there, it turns out the only cameras with a screen larger than 3&quot; generally fall into the following categories:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Professional (read: expensive) cameras, e.g. [Zeiss ZX1][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Specialized cameras, e.g. [Fluke TiX-640][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Cameras with apps, e.g. [Samsung Galaxy Camera][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there is a way to attach a [larger, external monitor][4] to a DSLR camera, with sizes 5.5&quot; and higher.  That would probably be the cheapest solution in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in case the screen doesn't have to be 5.5&quot;, there is a way to get this even cheaper.  There is an abundance of [blackberry phones][5] with only basic apps, but with a screen larger than 3&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1436638-REG/zeiss_zx1_digital_camera.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/thermal-imaging/infrared-cameras/expert-series/fluke-tix640&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EK-KC120-EKGC100-International-Warranty/dp/B075H1H6GX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1544911403&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=samsung%20galaxy%20camera&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-CLM-V55-Portable-Monitor-cameras/dp/B004LQ1QDE&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone1=3203&amp;idPhone2=4331&amp;idPhone3=3926#diff-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34380" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="fb0601c2-117b-41ed-af10-0b79a8c3ffe1" CreationDate="2018-12-16T07:01:00.917" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="5a669e7f-fffa-48d8-978e-fca9b232d185" CreationDate="2018-12-16T10:01:00.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="cc819c44-4ed2-4144-bda7-27a398258eef" CreationDate="2018-12-16T11:02:55.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="e0f2f3eb-1545-4393-ba11-e6c11ca0d339" CreationDate="2018-12-17T02:34:39.203" UserId="10297" Text="My Laptop is ASUS ROG GL553VD Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i7-7700HQ&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GTX1050&#xD;&#xA;- 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a SSD Hardware Recommendation, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my concerns for the Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for Android Development (using Android Studio Software which is very Performance Demanding), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used development software (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to install and Boot my Windows 10 in the Hardware, so its boot up speed should be in a very fast manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does not Overprice (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware As Reliable as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above 300GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you recommendation is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34398" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="e0f2f3eb-1545-4393-ba11-e6c11ca0d339" CreationDate="2018-12-17T02:34:39.203" UserId="10297" Text="Should I upgrade my Laptop with a New m2 PCIe Nvme SSD or SATA SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34399" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="e0f2f3eb-1545-4393-ba11-e6c11ca0d339" CreationDate="2018-12-17T02:34:39.203" UserId="10297" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="4e00bc7b-9517-4718-be0b-f1000999b739" CreationDate="2018-12-17T03:29:56.893" UserId="10297" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="My Laptop is ASUS ROG GL553VD Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i7-7700HQ&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GTX1050&#xD;&#xA;- 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a SSD Hardware Recommendation, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my concerns for the Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for Android Development (using Android Studio Software which is very Performance Demanding), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used development software (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to install and Boot my Windows 10 in the Hardware, so its boot up speed should be in a very fast manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does not Overprice (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware As Reliable as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above 300GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Budget Around RM200 (USD 120).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you recommendation is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="d4bdfb68-b1b4-4173-94c1-09975998e3d5" CreationDate="2018-12-17T03:55:01.467" UserId="10297" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="My Laptop is ASUS ROG GL553VD Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel i7-7700HQ&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GTX1050&#xD;&#xA;- 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a SSD Hardware Recommendation, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my concerns for the Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for Android Mobile Apps Development (using Android Studio Software which is very Performance Demanding), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used development software (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to install and Boot my Windows 10 in the Hardware, so its boot up speed should be in a very fast manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does not Overprice (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware As Reliable as possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above 300GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Budget Around RM200 (USD 120).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you recommendation is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34407" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="7573544b-a719-4935-8a80-54e3ab70175a" CreationDate="2018-12-17T04:01:13.713" UserId="10297" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="My Laptop is **ASUS ROG GL553VD** Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Intel i7-7700HQ**&#xD;&#xA;- **Nvidia GTX1050**&#xD;&#xA;- **128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)**&#xD;&#xA;- **16GB RAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a **SSD Hardware Recommendation**, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my **concerns** for the SSD Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for **Android Mobile Apps Development** (using Android Studio Software which is **very Performance Demanding**), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used **development software** (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to **Clone my Digital Licensed Windows 10** from my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD and Boot the Windows 10 in the Hardware, so it is expected to able to support **Clone Windows Feature** and able to **boot up in a very fast manner**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does **not Overprice** (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware to be **As Reliable as possible**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above **300GB**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Budget Around **RM200 (USD 120)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you recommendation is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34408" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="d92a4199-06c3-4bd6-85e6-b4194fbac6fa" CreationDate="2018-12-17T04:49:50.060" UserId="10297" Comment="edited body" Text="My Laptop is **ASUS ROG GL553VD** Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Intel i7-7700HQ**&#xD;&#xA;- **Nvidia GTX1050**&#xD;&#xA;- **128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)**&#xD;&#xA;- **16GB RAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a **SSD Hardware Recommendation**, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my **concerns** for the SSD Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for **Android Mobile Apps Development** (using Android Studio Software which is **very Performance Demanding**), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used **development software** (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to **Clone my Digital Licensed Windows 10** from my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD and Boot the Windows 10 in the Hardware, so it is expected to able to support **Clone Windows Feature** and able to **boot up in a very fast manner**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does **not Overprice** (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware to be **As Reliable as possible**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above **300GB**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Budget Around **RM500 (USD 120)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you recommendation is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10266" RevisionGUID="adaf446f-a355-42fd-a762-d9b556fe63ab" CreationDate="2018-12-17T04:58:42.920" UserId="10297" Comment="edited body" Text="My Laptop is **ASUS ROG GL553VD** Model, Here is its Summary Hardware Specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Intel i7-7700HQ**&#xD;&#xA;- **Nvidia GTX1050**&#xD;&#xA;- **128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD (there is no HHD installed)**&#xD;&#xA;- **16GB RAM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to ask for a **SSD Hardware Recommendation**, as I found that 128GB storage is not enough for me, these are my **concerns** for the SSD Upgrade:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I mostly use my Laptop for **Android Mobile Apps Development** (using Android Studio Software which is **very Performance Demanding**), I would like the SSD faster enough to handle Android Studio or other commonly used **development software** (such as Visual Studio, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I would like to **Clone my Digital Licensed Windows 10** from my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD and Boot the Windows 10 in the Hardware, so it is expected to able to support **Clone Windows Feature** and able to **boot up in a very fast manner**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I would like to ensure the Hardware to be Cost-efficient type, where it does **not Overprice** (such as low price ADATA SSD compare to high price SAMSUNG SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I would like the Hardware to be **As Reliable as possible**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Storage Space should above **300GB**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Budget Around **RM500 (USD 120)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I been considering whether to replace my **current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** to a **new 512GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** or I should simply get a **new SATA SSD** which would keep my current 128GB m2 PCIe Nvme SSD instead,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Biggest Concerns is:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is the **extra speed of m2 PCIe Nvme SSD** (1000mb read/write speed) really able to help me in most of my Workload compare to a SATA SSD (500mb read/write speed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your Experienced recommendations, advises, opinions is much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34422" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10270" RevisionGUID="33b4bf07-8c1d-4e61-8bba-3e902aef9277" CreationDate="2018-12-17T22:00:38.257" UserId="5988" Text="I operate a two-computer setup with multiple displays and a *plethora* of USB devices. I have a [pretty excellent KVM switch](https://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/2-Port-Dual-DisplayPort-USB-KVM-Switch-with-Audio-and-USB-20-Hub~SV231DPDDUA), that I'm generally very happy with; but I often need to switch the keyboard/mouse separately from the monitor. (i.e., I don't actually use the ‘K’ and ‘M’ in my KVM .)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, I have [a four-port USB-switch](https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS434/dp/B00Y3CTDAY/) that I'm using to augment that. In particular, it has:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Separate power-supply (weirdly, *also* over USB; but hey, whatever),&#xD;&#xA;2. Four output ports,&#xD;&#xA;3. USB-3.0 support,&#xD;&#xA;4. and **a wired remote**, so I can control it from the front of my desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I'm still suffering, though, is a subset thereof: right now, my shared display has independent control through the KVM; but my keyboard, mouse, DAC/speakers, and smartcard authentication setup (`&lt;3` Yubikey!) are all linked together. This means that anytime I want to type some text into my PC, I hit the remote's button under my desk, and … my music cuts out, my Mac locks itself (because I've ‘removed’ my smartcard), and Windows beeps a bajillion times as it briefly recognizes new devices. `ಠ_ಠ`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what I *really* want, I've belatedly realized, is a USB switch with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. At least two host-side USB 3.0 connections,&#xD;&#xA;2. at least four **individually-switchable** USB 3.0 ports for devices,&#xD;&#xA;3. if possible, an independent power-supply, not bus power,&#xD;&#xA;4. if possible, maintained *power* to the switched devices, regardless of what they're currently connected to,&#xD;&#xA;4. and if possible, some sort of remote head — or most preferably, software control from the hosts (I'd love to be able to hack together *a key combination* that switches devices!), so I can keep the dang thing hidden away behind my desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cost is no object, this is for my primary workstation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34423" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10270" RevisionGUID="33b4bf07-8c1d-4e61-8bba-3e902aef9277" CreationDate="2018-12-17T22:00:38.257" UserId="5988" Text="Is there a two-computer, multiple-port USB or KVM switch with *individual buttons* for each USB device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34424" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10270" RevisionGUID="33b4bf07-8c1d-4e61-8bba-3e902aef9277" CreationDate="2018-12-17T22:00:38.257" UserId="5988" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10271" RevisionGUID="edaeea82-a270-41b4-a974-d334f9dcd125" CreationDate="2018-12-18T03:25:38.943" UserId="10342" Text="So essentially what you would want is an Arduino pro micro with a usb adapter, Seytonic on YouTube did a whole series about a DIY rubber ducky using an Arduino. you can find his first video on the subject [here](https://youtu.be/_yJWwKO3_Z0) but once you have seen said video i recommend watching the updated video on the subject which you can find [here](https://youtu.be/fnplzZByaE4). he also goes deeper by adding on different functions to the Arduino like SD card storage or switches to change between scripts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;while this is one of the cheaper solutions it also means that you have to do more work to get it up and running. so if you are not versed in the arts of Arduino programming , or do not feel like putting in much effort i recommend you go check out [Maltronics](https://maltronics.com/) and go to the [MalDuino](https://maltronics.com/collections/malduinos) section. the site is hosted by Seytonic himself and all of the products are hand soldered by him. i believe this is the best option for your needs considering that you do not have an extremely low budget. the cheapest option the MalDuino lite costs about 16 USD, and to convert between ducky script and Arduino you can check out Seytonics [DuckyScriptConverter](http://seytonic.com/ducky/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;one other thing you can do (although i advocate against it) is to go out and buy a bunch of DigiSparks for one dollar each. but this is a bad idea unless you have hours to spend fiddling with them like me, also most of the ones that you will get will come in broken which is why i recommend you buy considerably large amount, but like i said unless you have time to spare i suggest you stay away from this option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34426" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="66f3dd9b-265f-4069-9804-09f39b2cfac5" CreationDate="2018-12-18T08:03:10.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34427" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="c39140ab-67b0-423a-91e9-f4aff2ff69da" CreationDate="2018-12-18T09:02:50.740" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10275" RevisionGUID="ce238b5c-59c6-4115-a7d5-55858b845f26" CreationDate="2018-12-18T23:21:48.633" UserId="6047" Text="Personally I would not throw away that 126 GB PCI-e SSD as you've already paid good money for that drive. Based on your [spec sheet](https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ROG-GL553VD/specifications/), you have one more SATA III slot that can accept a 2.5&quot; Drive. Unless your PCIe drive is giving you problems from a speed perspective it is not worth replacing that drive. You likely won't see that much of a speed difference in visual studio build speed unless you're like me and have allocated a part of your RAM for application development (I build applications on a RAM disk for speed and even with non PCI-e drives it can build GB sized applications almost instantaneously).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, you should keep your Visual Studio related program files to your primary SSD and send all your other junk to a slightly slower SATA SSD or HDD. This is going to be a lot more economical especially with the budget you specified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recommended you Drives that can ship to a Malaysian address today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB RM 455 + RM 5 Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It turns out this SSD option is exactly your budget. Owning a 840 EVO I can tell you these SSDs are excellent and come at a very reasonable price. Also [here is a Amazon link][2] in case you find Amazon can offer a better price for your location. I'm not familiar with the South-Eastern Asian Markets so it's hard for me to cull prices specific to Malaysia.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 	477 MB/s Read&#xD;&#xA; - 	423 MB/s Write&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;[Seagate Barracuda 500GB (ST500LM030) RM 158 + RM 5 Shipping][3]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;In addition, I'll recommend a HDD, as you may not need that much speed for your additional files. HDD are very much under budget and I've taken care to recommend you one of the highest benchmarking HDDs at its price point. [Here's the Amazon link][4] for this as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Data Transfer Rate: Up to 140 MB/s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally if you really want, you can completely replace your PCI-e SSD with another one. I would recommend the [Samsung 960 Evo][5], but only the 250 GB variant is under budget. Samsung also comes with cloning software so you can make a completely copy of your system onto any Samsung SSD and just plug it in and operate like normal. I've used Samsung's cloning software and can tell you its pretty painless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/samsung-860-evo-ssd-25inch-250gb-500gb-1tb-i304230627-s407317353.html?spm=a2o4k.searchlistcategory.list.2.3deea2afoRyEsa&amp;search=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAI3VLI6HITR26KCBQ&amp;tag=userbenchmark-20&amp;linkCode=sp1&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B0781Z7Y3S&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/seagate-barracuda-500gb-thin-25-notebook-hdd-st500lm030-i100532372-s100756095.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST500LM030/dp/B01M0AAA6X&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/samsung-250gb-ssd-960-evo-nvme-m2-mz-v6e250-bw-v-nand-ssd-ideal-for-high-performance-pc-i121410367-s132370197.html?spm=a2o4k.searchlist.list.2.7d2762ccMeLOIg&amp;search=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10271" RevisionGUID="18b52dca-6fdd-4fe6-83ef-c2d567e9d247" CreationDate="2018-12-19T02:54:45.710" UserId="6047" Comment="Fixed Grammar and Uppercase. Minimal sentence restructuring." Text="So essentially, what you would want is an Arduino pro micro with a usb adapter. Seytonic on YouTube did a whole series about a DIY rubber ducky using an Arduino. you can find his first video on the subject [here](https://youtu.be/_yJWwKO3_Z0) but once you have seen said video I recommend watching the updated video on the subject which you can find [here](https://youtu.be/fnplzZByaE4). He also goes deeper by adding on different functions to the Arduino like SD card storage or switches to change between scripts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While this is one of the cheaper solutions it also means that you have to do more work to get it up and running. If you are not versed in the arts of Arduino programming, or do not feel like putting in much effort I recommend you go check out [Maltronics](https://maltronics.com/) and go to the [MalDuino](https://maltronics.com/collections/malduinos) section. The site is hosted by Seytonic himself and all of the products are hand soldered by him. I believe this is the best option for your needs considering that you do not have an extremely low budget. The cheapest option the MalDuino lite costs about 16 USD, and to convert between ducky script and Arduino you can check out Seytonics [DuckyScriptConverter](http://seytonic.com/ducky/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One other thing you can do, although I advocate against it, is to go out and buy a bunch of DigiSparks for one dollar each. This is probably a bad idea unless you have hours to spend fiddling with them like me, also most of the ones that you will get will come in broken which is why I recommend you buy a considerably large amount. But like I said, unless you have time to spare, I suggest you stay away from this option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34441" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10271" RevisionGUID="18b52dca-6fdd-4fe6-83ef-c2d567e9d247" CreationDate="2018-12-19T02:54:45.710" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 10342 edit id of 783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34443" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="88dc33c3-13f0-4ac4-ae66-5dc8d3145858" CreationDate="2018-12-19T11:00:06.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10277" RevisionGUID="648bc635-0935-47cf-ae62-ddcf024992d0" CreationDate="2018-12-19T19:34:09.217" UserId="10349" Text="I use [this one][1] (it used to be available on amazon) for my phone to charge it while attaching other usb-c devices (the ports on top can be used to plug in other devices, while the port on the side is used to provide power for the host device). I'm still looking for a smaller usb-c hub that only features two female usb-c ports, but I don't think it exists yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lmall.my/aukey-cb-c48-usb-c-hub-3-0-5-ports-hub-splitter-cable-adapter-aukey-F513606-2007-01-Sale-I.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34457" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="1e108a24-1007-4d1c-9ca5-f3145c2e2dbc" CreationDate="2018-12-19T23:35:33.097" UserId="10350" Text="I recently got an iPad Pro and want to charge it the same time I am listening to music. I have the Apple 3.5mm jack and most adapters to turn that one port into charging + 3.5mm didn’t seem very good. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a very simple portable hub (not a fancy dock with display-out, ethernet and what not) that just turns that usb-c port into 2, so that I can charge it and listen to music at the same time with the stuff I already have, or other potential usecases in the future. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34458" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="1e108a24-1007-4d1c-9ca5-f3145c2e2dbc" CreationDate="2018-12-19T23:35:33.097" UserId="10350" Text="USB-C hub to turn 1 USB-C port into 2/3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34459" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="1e108a24-1007-4d1c-9ca5-f3145c2e2dbc" CreationDate="2018-12-19T23:35:33.097" UserId="10350" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10280" RevisionGUID="dc5bea33-986a-49d6-b91a-481bd3dd3450" CreationDate="2018-12-20T08:26:00.933" UserId="10353" Text="I want to transcode live stream video for 200 channels (24/7 work) with ffmpeg. Now I use Intel Quicksync it's work very well for not over 10 channels transcoding. I'm going to buy &quot;11GB GDDR6 RTX2080Ti INNO3D Twin X2&quot; with 4352 &quot;CUDA Core&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest me that this card is the right choice for my job or not. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My OS is Windows 10 / Windows server 2016" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34468" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10280" RevisionGUID="dc5bea33-986a-49d6-b91a-481bd3dd3450" CreationDate="2018-12-20T08:26:00.933" UserId="10353" Text="Which hardware acceleration suitable for ffmpeg video encoding job?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34469" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10280" RevisionGUID="dc5bea33-986a-49d6-b91a-481bd3dd3450" CreationDate="2018-12-20T08:26:00.933" UserId="10353" Text="&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34486" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10286" RevisionGUID="05097dac-61a9-4083-89ca-3ca145a65ea5" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:12:38.387" UserId="10360" Text="Are there any commercially available U2F keys that support both USB-C and NFC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I've looked at [Yubico][1] which seems to have a USB-C model that doesn't have NFC support or a USB-A model that does support NFC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've also found the [SoloKeys][2] site which seems to be what I'm looking for but they aren't yet available for purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.yubico.com/store/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://solokeys.com/preorder/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34487" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10286" RevisionGUID="05097dac-61a9-4083-89ca-3ca145a65ea5" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:12:38.387" UserId="10360" Text="U2F Key with NFC and USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34488" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10286" RevisionGUID="05097dac-61a9-4083-89ca-3ca145a65ea5" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:12:38.387" UserId="10360" Text="&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10287" RevisionGUID="460806c8-7d5f-4f99-85e7-d01969da1b71" CreationDate="2018-12-20T19:34:53.877" UserId="10361" Text="I was looking around online but I found the smaller models are 120mm.&#xD;&#xA;Does any one know any model with a fan/radiator smaller than 120mm?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34490" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10287" RevisionGUID="460806c8-7d5f-4f99-85e7-d01969da1b71" CreationDate="2018-12-20T19:34:53.877" UserId="10361" Text="Is there any water cooling kit for socket LGA 1151 with radiator/fan smaller than 120mm?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34491" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10287" RevisionGUID="460806c8-7d5f-4f99-85e7-d01969da1b71" CreationDate="2018-12-20T19:34:53.877" UserId="10361" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10289" RevisionGUID="862abfe6-23ee-4706-b1c1-abfbc5c3f16c" CreationDate="2018-12-20T20:02:02.967" UserId="9587" Text="Are there any mechanical keyboards with laptop-like layout for reasonable price? What I mean is something like this or at least almost similar:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom left row has 4 keys - ctrl, fn, win, alt; arrow keys also serve as Pg up, Pg down, Home, End;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better and I don't mind changing caps or resoldering switches, if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DIY PCB recommendations are also welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fDDw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10289" RevisionGUID="862abfe6-23ee-4706-b1c1-abfbc5c3f16c" CreationDate="2018-12-20T20:02:02.967" UserId="9587" Text="Mechanical keyboard with a laptop-like layout" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10289" RevisionGUID="862abfe6-23ee-4706-b1c1-abfbc5c3f16c" CreationDate="2018-12-20T20:02:02.967" UserId="9587" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10290" RevisionGUID="8015d5ef-ab53-407d-8ada-5e7026ea5baf" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:55:33.727" UserId="10349" Text="It still amazes me that it's almost the end of 2018 and still no one seems to have been able to, to my knowledge, find or create such a device. I did however gather some more information, so here I go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To clarify what the adapter should be able to do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C male port is for the host device, aka a phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C-PD female port is for power. So it could be connected to a wall adapter with a C-C cable and provide power to the host device (and maybe also for the second device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C data female port is for USB devices that can be connected to the host device, aka a flashdrive, mouse or 3.5mm dongle (with DAC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference, I own a USB-C hub that does all these things, however it's very large (especially for a phone) since besides these ports it also packs in an extra USB-C port and two USB-A 3.1 ports. I'm talking about the Aukey CB-C48&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.aukey.life/products/cbc48-usb-c-hub-2-port-usb-3-0-2-port-usb-c-1-port-usb-c-with-pd][1]. This device existing, shows that the idea of a &quot;splitter&quot; is actually possible, just never done before (to my knowledge).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size I'm looking for is around this size: [![this size][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;(Don't be fooled by its appearance, the adapter in the picture only wires the lines regarding power one way, while it wires the lines for Analog-Audio-over-USB-C the other way, which is great, if you have a phone with a DAC and only want to use it for headphones but not for anything else.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be this form factor: [https://hackaday.io/project/26263-pd-buddy-wye][3]. (This one works the other way around, allowing your phone to fast-charge over PD from a charger and connect to a PC via USB. It doesn't allow the phone to be the host.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally I found another adapter of which I do not know whether it works: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSZMG5J?pf_rd_p=1581d9f4-062f-453c-b69e-0f3e00ba2652&amp;pf_rd_r=SMDQYBNA8X75H9EGVK16][4]. These types of adapters have a DAC inside them,thus enabling phones without a DAC to connect to USB-C headphones (or dongles) without DAC. At least that's what I've gathered from the descriptions. However, I don't know if the port can also be used for other USB peripherals. The seller did tell me it didn't work with mice/flashdrives, but it did work with the 3.5mm dongle from Google, which is odd, because it does have a DAC inside and thus is a completely normal USB peripheral, just like a mouse for instance. I did order one to test what's true and what isn't about these. When mine arrives, I'll update the post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if anyone finds anything, please let me know and if anyone has the capacity to design and build such an adapter also let me know. I really hope it can be realized!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aukey.life/products/cbc48-usb-c-hub-2-port-usb-3-0-2-port-usb-c-1-port-usb-c-with-pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbtmB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hackaday.io/project/26263-pd-buddy-wye&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSZMG5J?pf_rd_p=1581d9f4-062f-453c-b69e-0f3e00ba2652&amp;pf_rd_r=SMDQYBNA8X75H9EGVK16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34499" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10290" RevisionGUID="8015d5ef-ab53-407d-8ada-5e7026ea5baf" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:55:33.727" UserId="10349" Text="Is there, or could anyone make a tiny 1 to 2 USB-C &quot;splitter&quot; hub that only contains a female USB-C-PD port and a female USB-C data port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34500" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10290" RevisionGUID="8015d5ef-ab53-407d-8ada-5e7026ea5baf" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:55:33.727" UserId="10349" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10289" RevisionGUID="640e2102-68c4-4a99-b9ab-6c09cb4753f2" CreationDate="2018-12-21T00:01:34.597" UserId="9587" Comment="added 56 characters in body" Text="Are there any mechanical keyboards with laptop-like layout for reasonable price(below 80$ is ok, below 60$ is good, below 40$ is great)? What I mean is something like this or at least almost similar:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bottom left row has 4 keys - ctrl, fn, win, alt; arrow keys also serve as Pg up, Pg down, Home, End;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better and I don't mind changing caps or resoldering switches, if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DIY PCB recommendations are also welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fDDw.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34502" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="f8d434c3-e556-4999-a83a-a9425e065ab4" CreationDate="2018-12-21T04:04:16.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10290" RevisionGUID="ff70b9f5-7b84-40b4-b587-4b90c69bfff9" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:51:47.687" UserId="10349" Comment="added 447 characters in body" Text="It still amazes me that it's almost the end of 2018 and still no one seems to have been able to, to my knowledge, find or create such a device. I did however gather some more information, so here I go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To clarify what the adapter should be able to do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C male port is for the host device, aka a phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C-PD female port is for power. So it could be connected to a wall adapter with a C-C cable and provide power to the host device (and maybe also for the second device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB-C data female port is for USB devices that can be connected to the host device, aka a flashdrive, mouse or 3.5mm dongle (with DAC).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference, I own a USB-C hub that does all these things, however it's very large (especially for a phone) since besides these ports it also packs in an extra USB-C port and two USB-A 3.1 ports. I'm talking about the Aukey CB-C48&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.aukey.life/products/cbc48-usb-c-hub-2-port-usb-3-0-2-port-usb-c-1-port-usb-c-with-pd][1]. This device existing, shows that the idea of a &quot;splitter&quot; is actually possible, just never done before (to my knowledge).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size I'm looking for is around this size: [![this size][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;(Don't be fooled by its appearance, the adapter in the picture only wires the lines regarding power one way, while it wires the lines for Analog-Audio-over-USB-C the other way, which is great, if you have a phone with a DAC and only want to use it for headphones but not for anything else.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be this form factor: [https://hackaday.io/project/26263-pd-buddy-wye][3]. (This one works the other way around, allowing your phone to fast-charge over PD from a charger and connect to a PC via USB. It doesn't allow the phone to be the host.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally I found another adapter of which I do not know whether it works: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSZMG5J?pf_rd_p=1581d9f4-062f-453c-b69e-0f3e00ba2652&amp;pf_rd_r=SMDQYBNA8X75H9EGVK16][4]. These types of adapters have a DAC inside them,thus enabling phones without a DAC to connect to USB-C headphones (or dongles) without DAC. At least that's what I've gathered from the descriptions. However, I don't know if the port can also be used for other USB peripherals. The seller did tell me it didn't work with mice/flashdrives, but it did work with the 3.5mm dongle from Google, which is odd, because it does have a DAC inside and thus is a completely normal USB peripheral, just like a mouse for instance. I did order one to test what's true and what isn't about these. When mine arrives, I'll update the post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 1: Another item I found was the Cusby, a failed indiegogo campain: [https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/cusby-first-usb-c-modular-expandable-adapter][5] and [http://www.cusby.com/][6]. In particular their &quot;power port&quot; module does exactly what I'm looking for. Unfortunately they've been silent for 3 years now, so yeah...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if anyone finds anything, please let me know and if anyone has the capacity to design and build such an adapter also let me know. I really hope it can be realized!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aukey.life/products/cbc48-usb-c-hub-2-port-usb-3-0-2-port-usb-c-1-port-usb-c-with-pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbtmB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hackaday.io/project/26263-pd-buddy-wye&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSZMG5J?pf_rd_p=1581d9f4-062f-453c-b69e-0f3e00ba2652&amp;pf_rd_r=SMDQYBNA8X75H9EGVK16&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/cusby-first-usb-c-modular-expandable-adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.cusby.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10291" RevisionGUID="4467d2be-ade1-46bc-9089-65b650e6e6ee" CreationDate="2018-12-22T06:17:27.183" UserId="10369" Text="I'm looking for external GPU options for a power boost for a mid-2015 MacBook Pro 15 inch. It is used for animation production and 3D rendering, using software such as Aftereffects and Maya. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any knowledge of hardware systems, so I'll appreciate any information on what would my the best options for this for a budget around 700-750$ ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please keep in mind that my Macbook is Thunderbolt 2, and I'm going to have to use the eGPUs with a Thunderbolt 2 to 3 adopter I guess." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34519" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10291" RevisionGUID="4467d2be-ade1-46bc-9089-65b650e6e6ee" CreationDate="2018-12-22T06:17:27.183" UserId="10369" Text="Best graphic cards and eGPUs for MacBook Pro 15&quot; mid-2015" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34520" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10291" RevisionGUID="4467d2be-ade1-46bc-9089-65b650e6e6ee" CreationDate="2018-12-22T06:17:27.183" UserId="10369" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34521" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9921" RevisionGUID="41abed34-18d0-4287-b863-4b62f0cd897f" CreationDate="2018-12-22T07:01:45.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34525" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="c64f58b0-5d70-4b55-9b0c-f3c8b5801951" CreationDate="2018-12-22T11:01:25.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="e6171a07-038d-4529-a40f-b125bc7ab8de" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:17:26.517" UserId="7169" Text="I am trying to find and buy cheap computer case with liquid 2 fans cooler. Like that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problems with search&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - with &quot;liquid cooler&quot; keywords I found liquid coolers of course (mixed with cases)&#xD;&#xA; - often &quot;liquid cooler&quot; support means that case have holes for coller but no place for radiator&#xD;&#xA; - often found cases with top 2 fans, but prefilled liquid cooler requires much more cpase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there may be some standart or abbreviation indefies whether case suppots to install such coolers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/akDrd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34527" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="e6171a07-038d-4529-a40f-b125bc7ab8de" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:17:26.517" UserId="7169" Text="Is there any mounting standart for prefilled liquid coolers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34528" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="e6171a07-038d-4529-a40f-b125bc7ab8de" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:17:26.517" UserId="7169" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10294" RevisionGUID="bed14ba7-5ba8-44ba-a0b2-2046a0e0da34" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:34:29.530" UserId="10366" Text="I am looking for a laptop on which I can install linux to do Java development and virtualization. The following configuration comes to my mind. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Processor     | AMD Ryzen 5 or 7 Or Intel i5 or i7 Quad Core |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Memory        | 16 gb DDR4 or more                           |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Storage       | 512 gb NVMe or more                          |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Graphics Card | Low end, since this not a gaming rig         |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Screen size   | 17 inches                                    |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | OS            | Optional to keep cost down.                  |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------------+----------------------------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How much should something like this minimally cost. I am thinking under $1000. Let us collect laptops being sold with similar configurations here. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34530" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10294" RevisionGUID="bed14ba7-5ba8-44ba-a0b2-2046a0e0da34" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:34:29.530" UserId="10366" Text="17 inches High-end developers laptop for 2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34531" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10294" RevisionGUID="bed14ba7-5ba8-44ba-a0b2-2046a0e0da34" CreationDate="2018-12-22T17:34:29.530" UserId="10366" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34532" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8534" RevisionGUID="53a6a3eb-83f6-4ed7-8d13-1a2c98d23df1" CreationDate="2018-12-22T20:02:20.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34533" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10291" RevisionGUID="025ff574-f39d-40d4-8453-61cd14aaa5af" CreationDate="2018-12-22T20:20:14.400" UserId="10369" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for external GPU options for a power boost for a mid-2015 MacBook Pro 15 inch. It is used for animation production and 3D rendering, using software such as Aftereffects and Maya. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any knowledge of hardware systems, so I'll appreciate any information on what would my the best options for this for a budget around 700-750$ ? I was thinking of buying an AMD RX 580. Is that a good choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please keep in mind that my Macbook is Thunderbolt 2, and I'm going to have to use the eGPUs with a Thunderbolt 2 to 3 adopter I guess. (I don't know if that matters.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="d1712c3d-bdbd-41bb-ae56-9b3c4fbc303d" CreationDate="2018-12-22T23:51:16.787" UserId="40" Comment="added 248 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a ~24-inch computer monitor that is as light as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer monitor just needs to have at least the basic features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1920x1080 resolution or higher&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI/DVI/VGA/USB/display port/etc. are all fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pricewise I don't have any hard limit: the main criteria is really the weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bestbuy doesn't have any option to filter by weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have crossposted the question at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://qr.ae/TUhSxp&#xD;&#xA;- https://redd.it/9xu713&#xD;&#xA;- http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3824037/ultralight-inch-computer-monitor.html#21493048&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI, if you're interested in ultralight computer monitors because you are traveling: [What solutions exist for having two large computer screens available at each destination when traveling by plane?](https://travel.stackexchange.com/q/125076/1810)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10296" RevisionGUID="d8632503-3857-4224-83b4-b149c77b5571" CreationDate="2018-12-23T05:46:08.580" UserId="10374" Text="I'm searching for a router that has capabilities to add manual latency to a device in my network (for example, add 10ms of ping to a random device on my network). What router should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: I found that dd-wrt routers have the &quot;tc&quot; command that may help with this, but I also saw people that said that doesn't work, I just don't want to waste money on something that may not work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34539" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10296" RevisionGUID="d8632503-3857-4224-83b4-b149c77b5571" CreationDate="2018-12-23T05:46:08.580" UserId="10374" Text="Router with ability to introduce manual latency to a device?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34540" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10296" RevisionGUID="d8632503-3857-4224-83b4-b149c77b5571" CreationDate="2018-12-23T05:46:08.580" UserId="10374" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34541" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="93f6aa85-b28e-490c-a81f-b953419d92ac" CreationDate="2018-12-23T09:02:30.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34542" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="a3f6f0b5-bb7f-4364-9c10-d151b85f39ac" CreationDate="2018-12-23T09:57:56.093" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/125076/what-solutions-exist-for-having-two-large-computer-screens-available-at-each-des" />
  <row Id="34543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="c0bed396-9c13-4b68-a307-18bdab36527f" CreationDate="2018-11-03T21:21:56.567" UserId="40" Text="&gt; Note: this question is not a shopping question, as I am not looking for specific goods or services (see [this shopping question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/10010/40) if you're looking for a list of lightweight monitors). Instead, I'm looking for device types that aren't regular computer monitors but could be used as such (e.g., pico projectors) or some tricks to make regular computer monitors more transportable (e.g., removing the stand).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whenever I travel by plane, I need to have a few computer monitors as soon as possible after I arrive to my destination. I use a multi-monitor configuration (ideally at least 2 external monitors in addition to my laptop). The computer monitors should be decent enough for coding purpose, i.e. 1920x1080 resolution or higher, and somewhere between 24 and ~27 inches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any computer monitor that can be easily transported in my luggage while traveling by plane?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the solutions I found so far are not satisfying:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- All the [portable LED Monitors](https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=Portable+LED+Monitor) I found so far are too small (less than 20 inches).&#xD;&#xA;- All the [multimonitors laptops](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/slidenjoy/slidenjoy-double-or-triple-your-screens) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181103213310/https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/slidenjoy/slidenjoy-double-or-triple-your-screens)) I found have too small monitors. &#xD;&#xA;- [Handheld/nano/pico/mobile/pocket projectors](https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=pocket+pico+projector&amp;tag=googhydr-20&amp;index=aps&amp;hvadid=229042784333&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8344212667170167954&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=b&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9031934&amp;hvtargid=kwd-295958976894&amp;ref=pd_sl_96ntajwyzi_b_p38) don't have a very crisp image, which makes it inconvenient to code. Furthermore, I'd need a screen to project against, which would be challenging to set up to simulate a multi-monitor configuration.&#xD;&#xA;- I sometimes cannot find any business that rent computer monitors, and purchasing computer monitors each time isn't that financially efficient (if I try to resell the monitors, it takes some time and I only get ~70% money back at best, assuming I find a buyer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="c0bed396-9c13-4b68-a307-18bdab36527f" CreationDate="2018-11-03T21:21:56.567" UserId="40" Text="What solutions exist for having two large computer screens available at each destination when traveling by plane?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="c0bed396-9c13-4b68-a307-18bdab36527f" CreationDate="2018-11-03T21:21:56.567" UserId="40" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10298" RevisionGUID="2819efc6-f2ec-43f7-909a-e82e5c10c729" CreationDate="2018-11-04T03:18:34.007" UserId="40" Text="I'll summarize the comments in this answer, since comments can be removed anytime on Stack Exchange:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  [jcaron](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/30703/jcaron): remove the computer monitor stand.&#xD;&#xA;-  [Mike Harris](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/41096/mike-harris): one could use [coworking spaces](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coworking).&#xD;&#xA;-  [David Richerby](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/11491/david-richerby), [user71659](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/67998/user71659), [Rory Alsop](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/1381/rory-alsop), [Michael Hampton](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/3221/michael-hampton): there is currently no solution aside from buying/renting on site.&#xD;&#xA;-  [JonathanReez](https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/9009/jonathanreez): buy a pair of used monitors on site. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34547" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="10298" RevisionGUID="b5ad736a-2cb4-459b-8988-ab34375537a5" CreationDate="2018-12-23T09:57:56.093" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/125076/what-solutions-exist-for-having-two-large-computer-screens-available-at-each-des/125087#125087" />
  <row Id="34548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10299" RevisionGUID="494611a2-6c5a-4b29-ab7c-71e1bc371782" CreationDate="2018-12-23T14:20:45.883" UserId="10378" Text="I have a Speedport 921V which does [NOT][1] support Wake on LAN (WOL) over the local network. I am looking for a Fritzbox or similar which has at least the same features as my Speedport 921V and supports WOL over the local network. I use WOL2 to wake up my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Please not, that the topic is not to wake up my computer via the internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://telekomhilft.telekom.de/t5/Geraete-Zubehoer/Speedport-W921V/m-p/906479#M145825" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34549" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10299" RevisionGUID="494611a2-6c5a-4b29-ab7c-71e1bc371782" CreationDate="2018-12-23T14:20:45.883" UserId="10378" Text="Router with WOL support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34550" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10299" RevisionGUID="494611a2-6c5a-4b29-ab7c-71e1bc371782" CreationDate="2018-12-23T14:20:45.883" UserId="10378" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10300" RevisionGUID="fceaa20c-0b4e-4645-b637-a9666ebcf29d" CreationDate="2018-12-23T21:21:17.373" UserId="1197" Text="There is the x86 [ODROID-H2][1] SBC which comes with 2 x 1 GBit ethernet, 2 x SATA, 2 x USB 3.0 (4 USB ports in total), 1 x M.2 NVMe and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of 2018-12, it's sold for $ 111.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's based on the Intel Celeron J4105 platform (CPU is soldered) and has 2 empty DDR4 SO-DIMM slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When using the SATA ports you need special SATA power cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.hardkernel.com/shop/odroid-h2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10301" RevisionGUID="6fdd7f3a-782a-4267-b3ae-5264b6ef0fdd" CreationDate="2018-12-24T00:25:44.373" UserId="9587" Text="Is there a reasonably priced (below 250$ USD) router with 3 or more Gigabit SFP ports for SOHO that can handle a Gigabit WAN uplink?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like Mikrotik CRS106-1C-5S https://mikrotik.com/product/CRS106-1C-5S but as I understand this CRS is a &quot;smart switch&quot; and doesn't have enough routing capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cloud Router Switch][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g274F.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34554" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10301" RevisionGUID="6fdd7f3a-782a-4267-b3ae-5264b6ef0fdd" CreationDate="2018-12-24T00:25:44.373" UserId="9587" Text="Small SOHO Router with 3+ Gigabit SFP ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34555" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10301" RevisionGUID="6fdd7f3a-782a-4267-b3ae-5264b6ef0fdd" CreationDate="2018-12-24T00:25:44.373" UserId="9587" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10302" RevisionGUID="5059e468-042c-4681-a37e-7cf1934294b4" CreationDate="2018-12-24T07:12:29.953" UserId="10380" Text="There is no reason you could not have a standard IBM-PC format motherboard using an ARM CPU. Simply obeying the form factor (which nowadays includes not only mounting holes, but a set of backside connectors for video, USB, Net, etc.) as well as being PCI compliant would do it. Clearly the drivers and the software would be custom, but a Linux distro could do that easily, and Windows will soon run on ARM as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10304" RevisionGUID="8d26fb45-24b6-4e7c-be5b-74eab8c499e6" CreationDate="2018-12-24T11:19:03.427" UserId="7556" Text="The vast majority of modern tower cases (and many smaller cases) support at least a 240mm radiator with fans in some configuration. AFAIK, there is no standardized compatibility keyword; however, most manufacturers make it clear in their documentation what radiators are supported (both footprint and thickness.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One useful tool is PCPartPicker. To check compatibility, you can start a new system build, add a radiator, then go to cases and with &quot;Enable compatibility filter&quot; checked, browse the list of cases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have other constraints in mind, please post them so we can help get you a more specific recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmvUC.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34566" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="4d8d1ba5-2391-4506-977a-ecde02bea300" CreationDate="2018-12-25T02:03:05.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10306" RevisionGUID="0fc665bc-b5d8-414a-be71-fb6b9da84f6f" CreationDate="2018-12-25T02:07:50.530" UserId="7203" Text="Are there any decently priced 10-Gigabit Ethernet switches? Any 5-port ones under $100? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm mostly asking out of curiosity, so this isn't an XY problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10306" RevisionGUID="0fc665bc-b5d8-414a-be71-fb6b9da84f6f" CreationDate="2018-12-25T02:07:50.530" UserId="7203" Text="Decently priced 10-Gigabit Ethernet switches?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10306" RevisionGUID="0fc665bc-b5d8-414a-be71-fb6b9da84f6f" CreationDate="2018-12-25T02:07:50.530" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34571" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="43d499c9-7cef-4b06-a4e5-a48f530efdd7" CreationDate="2018-12-25T09:01:20.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34575" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="d58f0ffb-c4ae-40c0-aec7-f29a5411fe9d" CreationDate="2018-12-25T15:02:20.530" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34576" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="61cc1b56-5708-4bf3-8fa1-979ad6c3232b" CreationDate="2018-12-25T17:01:35.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34580" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="24773ebe-18ad-4793-9b32-378b8bf27aeb" CreationDate="2018-12-25T20:03:05.663" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34586" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="69a757ff-96d1-4541-98f7-9fe6b3cf35be" CreationDate="2018-12-26T00:02:55.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34587" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7490" RevisionGUID="82bdda73-c970-48f5-9c9b-c55c1a7faee9" CreationDate="2018-12-26T10:01:55.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10311" RevisionGUID="1bbc79e6-fe86-4c62-b842-f3c814bac0cf" CreationDate="2018-12-26T12:59:07.937" UserId="10393" Text="As mentioned in the comments its niche product. Even I've been looking for laptop with small spacebar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best I could find is japanese laptops (with JIS layout) which have small spacebar (language can be changed to English and keyboard Type to ANSI)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you could have a look at JIS keyboard @ https://www.apple.com/jp/macbook-air/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use Karabiner-Elements https://github.com/tekezo/Karabiner-Elements on macOS to map extra keys according to your convenience" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34595" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="28b95e7f-3b87-4e48-a5ea-caa29be95f29" CreationDate="2018-12-26T18:02:35.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34596" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2389" RevisionGUID="8e8c5811-caf4-4d48-89f2-930629786a4b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T00:03:00.707" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="35d469b0-61c2-4e8d-9272-3e42ae19076b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T03:24:25.313" UserId="1997" Comment="Post-migration tidy-up" Text="&gt; Clarifying note: I'm looking for device types that aren't regular computer monitors (see [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/10010/40) if you're looking for a list of lightweight monitors), but could be used as such (e.g., pico projectors), or some tricks to make regular computer monitors more transportable (e.g., removing the stand).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whenever I travel by plane, I need to have a few computer monitors as soon as possible after I arrive to my destination. I use a multi-monitor configuration (ideally at least 2 external monitors in addition to my laptop). The computer monitors should be decent enough for coding purpose, i.e. 1920x1080 resolution or higher, and somewhere between 24 and ~27 inches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any such products that can be easily transported in my luggage while traveling by plane?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the solutions I found so far are not satisfying:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- All the [portable LED Monitors](https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=Portable+LED+Monitor) I found so far are too small (less than 20 inches).&#xD;&#xA;- All the [multimonitors laptops](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/slidenjoy/slidenjoy-double-or-triple-your-screens) ([mirror](https://web.archive.org/web/20181103213310/https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/slidenjoy/slidenjoy-double-or-triple-your-screens)) I found have too small monitors. &#xD;&#xA;- [Handheld/nano/pico/mobile/pocket projectors](https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=pocket+pico+projector&amp;tag=googhydr-20&amp;index=aps&amp;hvadid=229042784333&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8344212667170167954&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=b&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9031934&amp;hvtargid=kwd-295958976894&amp;ref=pd_sl_96ntajwyzi_b_p38) don't have a very crisp image, which makes it inconvenient to code. Furthermore, I'd need a screen to project against, which would be challenging to set up to simulate a multi-monitor configuration.&#xD;&#xA;- I sometimes cannot find any business that rent computer monitors, and purchasing computer monitors each time isn't that financially efficient (if I try to resell the monitors, it takes some time and I only get ~70% money back at best, assuming I find a buyer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34602" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="35d469b0-61c2-4e8d-9272-3e42ae19076b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T03:24:25.313" UserId="1997" Comment="Post-migration tidy-up" Text="Portable alternatives to conventional LED monitors for coding on two large screens after traveling by plane?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34603" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="35d469b0-61c2-4e8d-9272-3e42ae19076b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T03:24:25.313" UserId="1997" Comment="Post-migration tidy-up" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34604" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10297" RevisionGUID="35d469b0-61c2-4e8d-9272-3e42ae19076b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T03:24:25.313" Comment="Proposed by 1997 approved by 7556, 912 edit id of 785" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34605" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10312" RevisionGUID="e72d59f6-bdab-4d96-927a-e49b139e568b" CreationDate="2018-12-27T07:47:15.333" UserId="6175" Text="I would suggest using something like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.yourslide.com/ (Kickstarter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.razer.com/eu-en/project-valerie (Razer's implementation)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34606" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10312" RevisionGUID="d12979e1-3ccd-49ab-86a7-b24459e53ff3" CreationDate="2018-12-27T08:12:34.353" UserId="6175" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="I would suggest using something like this.&#xD;&#xA;These are folding / sliding screens from behind your monitor. Great for when you want to carry your laptop, but you should be able to do some serious work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.yourslide.com/ (Kickstarter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.razer.com/eu-en/project-valerie (Razer's implementation)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34614" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10315" RevisionGUID="818da89d-e46f-43c4-9678-e2362bd01564" CreationDate="2018-12-27T14:53:19.460" UserId="10320" Text="So far it seems that https://usb.userbenchmark.com/ is the only place that allows me to sort the tested USB drives by the 4k write speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the current stats, I'll check the local shops for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mushkin Ventura Ultra USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Flash Voyager GTX USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA; - SanDisk Extreme Pro USB 3.1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34615" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10316" RevisionGUID="68cb49ce-c702-4345-a961-a2c009df8eac" CreationDate="2018-12-27T15:04:02.527" UserId="10320" Text="Samsung Portable SSD T5 might be a good choice too, if you can find an offer that fits your budget: https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/portable/t5/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34616" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9386" RevisionGUID="a32b261b-4121-43b7-b508-15d7188df946" CreationDate="2018-12-27T16:02:00.390" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34617" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="5e6c332c-c5ba-4aa9-9f48-63774b69e592" CreationDate="2018-12-27T17:01:10.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10317" RevisionGUID="1597f5de-300f-43e2-aa64-9e79efc5fed6" CreationDate="2018-12-28T01:02:55.047" UserId="7556" Text="# A GTX 1080/1080 Ti in a AORUS/Gigabyte Gaming Box/Sapphire GearBox/AKiTiO Node, on macOS High Sierra&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Preface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First and foremost: **what card is best for you will depend heavily on your specific workload**, down to often even relatively small details. Things from what you're modeling, render settings, and even what format you're exporting to can influence what card works best for you massively. Unfortunately, spending more doesn't mean you'll be getting better performance, and outside of the very best Quadros, doesn't even guarantee the same level of performance. What I'm trying to do here is provide you with a general recommendation of what will *probably* be good given your (somewhat varied) workload. If it turns out that you're really doing one thing in particular, either come back here for more specific recommendations or contact the developer/a third party consultant who specializes in the tech for a specific recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second: I am by no means an expert when it comes to hardware-accelerated GPGPU. The world of GPUs, even compared to others in the industry, is a particularly messy one, and I make no pretense that I understand it all or even close to it. If you want a brief and very interesting (while slightly terrifying) look into the world of graphics, I highly recommend [this post on the Dolphin Emulator blog on ubershaders.](https://dolphin-emu.org/blog/2017/07/30/ubershaders/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, let's get into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Graphics APIs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Understanding what GPU is best for you requires understanding how GPUs interface with software. Based on your background, I'll assume you understand the basic premise between APIs, but it's worth reviewing them in specific for macOS, since it in particular sits in a bit of a weird space when it comes to graphics APIs. For the purposes of these programs, macOS has three different graphics APIs: OpenCL, CUDA, and Metal. OpenCL is cross-vendor and cross-platform, working on AMD, Nvidia, and Intel (plus others) GPUs with Apple's out-of-the-box drivers on macOS. CUDA is specific to Nvidia GPUs but cross-platform, installable with Nvidia's web drivers on macOS. Metal is the newest of the bunch, written by Apple for their OSs with support for AMD, Nvidia, and Intel (plus others) GPUs. So, which to choose? Well, it's not so simple. Metal and CUDA tend to provide &quot;better&quot; access to the hardware, at the cost of the developers. Although Metal might seem like the obvious first choice, because it's so new and specific to Apple's OSs, performance is often somewhat lackluster, if developer support exists at all. OpenCL might seem like a solid bet, but because Apple wants to push Metal, [it refuses to provide drivers past version 1.2](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202823), [even outright deprecating it with the release of macOS 10.14 Mojave](https://appleinsider.com/articles/18/06/28/why-macos-mojave-requires-metal----and-deprecates-opengl) (somewhat ironic given [Apple is the original author of OpenCL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OpenCL#History).) Additionally, Nvidia GPUs tend to perform worse with OpenCL compared to CUDA. CUDA, meanwhile, suffers from the obvious burden of only supporting Nvidia GPUs and lackluster support from Nvidia themselves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has left software vendors in a bit of a tight spot. Many have existing support for OpenCL (and sometimes CUDA) based hardware acceleration, but don't see a clear path forward. No matter what option they choose, they're either alienating part of their consumer base on the basis of their hardware choices, getting less performance than they could, or spending more time and resources developing their software. As a result, **developers have basically scattered when it comes to what graphics API they use on macOS.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, **this will be considered on a program by program basis, along with hardware.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## After Effects (and sort of the rest of CC)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[In the timeline, After Effects supports some effects and fast rendering on GPU using OpenGL for most, and CUDA *only* for a few.](https://helpx.adobe.com/after-effects/using/basics-gpu-after-effects.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it stands, [Media Encoder still favors OpenCL over Metal](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oz_F1ECwzQ) for encoding. Or maybe not? Initial testing with Adobe Media Encoder 2019 (which has a bunch of improvements on the Metal front) actually yielded a 11% (1:20 vs. 1:30) improvement with Metal transcoding from a H.264 screen recording to H.264 Youtube 1080p... so maybe not? In any case, I won't be considering this for now because of the wonky state of Metal at the moment (more on this later.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Let's get down to the benchmarks:](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/After-Effects-CC-2019-NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-Performance-1270/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Conclusion? **More raw power is better (but not by a ton); Nvidia is favored somewhat over AMD; &quot;Pro&quot; features don't matter.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Maya&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Viewport&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, [numbers](https://techgage.com/article/radeon-pro-vs-quadro-a-fresh-look-at-workstation-gpu-performance/4/) for the RTX series aren't available here. However, we can still get a pretty good idea of things.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rendering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AFAIK, Maya doesn't support GPU-based rendering. While I believe there are other renderers which do, I don't feel I'm qualified to talk about them here. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Conclusion? **More raw power is better; AMD and Nvidia appear roughly equal; &quot;Pro&quot; features are favored by ~5-20%, but which features are important is unclear.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Cinema 4D&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Viewport&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, SPECviewperf numbers aren't available for Cinema 4D AFAIK, and I haven't been able to find a good replacement. Will update if I find something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rendering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cinema 4D is really simple: no support for GPU rendering!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...until it's not. While the &quot;normal&quot; rendering engine doesn't support GPU acceleration, [Cinema 4D offers the ability to use a variety of other rendering engines](https://greyscalegorilla.com/2017/08/what-renderer-should-i-use-in-cinema-4d/), including Arnold, Octane, Redshift, and even Blender's Cycles engine. However, these might as well be considered separate programs, so I won't actually be covering those here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Except, starting with release 20 on September 1st, 2018, Cinema 4D includes built-in support for the Radeon ProRender rendering engine, with support for OpenCL and Metal based acceleration. Unfortunately, because it's new, numbers are hard to come by. So far, all I've managed to find is [this set](https://techgage.com/article/performance-testing-amds-radeon-prorender-in-autodesk-3ds-max/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note also that these numbers are with OpenCL on Windows 10 Pro and don't include the RTX series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Conclusion? **More raw power is better; AMD is favored over Nvidia; &quot;Pro&quot; features don't matter. However, things are fast-moving.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## GPU: The final decision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on your budget, ~$500 seems reasonable for your graphics card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frankly, the extra expense of a &quot;pro&quot; card doesn't make sense for the relatively minimal gains in Maya. Because of the much better availability of consumer cards, I'd highly recommend one of them over a pro card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Going for straight power, a used GTX 1080 should be well within reach; and, if you're willing to shop around a bit, a GTX 1080 Ti should be doable. Right now, AMD's offerings just aren't competitive at this price point; used 10 series cards are far cheaper and available compared to Vega cards, and no AMD card can match the 1080 Ti ATM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it must be noted that Nvidia cards are currently unsupported on Mojave, and other than Kepler, Metal drivers are absent, making it impossible to upgrade to Mojave. However, it seems likely that Nvidia will release drivers (with Metal support) in the future. Just when exactly that future is is unclear. In the meantime, stay on High Sierra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note also that [Thunderbolt 2 and Nvidia eGPUs are unsupported by Apple and require extra work](https://egpu.io/forums/mac-setup/state-of-egpu-for-macs-mojave-10-14-update/) for macOS compared to the plug-and-play of an AMD card on Mojave with a TB3 equipped Mac. Since you've got a Thunderbolt 2 equipped laptop anyways, I'm going to recommend this setup anyways. Just keep this in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## eGPU enclosures&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[eGPU.io](https://egpu.io/build-guides/) is a fantastic resource for everything eGPU related, from hardware recommendations to build guides. Information is generally quite recent, and the forums there are extremely useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm going to recommend using a Thunderbolt 3 eGPU enclosure with an adapter, rather than a Thunderbolt 2 enclosure. While Thunderbolt 2 enclosures can be cheaper, they're usually harder to find, have much, much lower power limits, and aren't great for upgradability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;eGPUs are a bit strange in that there are a bunch of different enclosures available, all of which are fairly valid choices. While I'm going to make some recommendations, if you find yourself looking at something else, there's nothing wrong with that. Again, the [eGPU.io buyer's guide](https://egpu.io/external-gpu-buyers-guide-2018/#tb3-enclosures) is a fantastic resource.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [AORUS/Gigabyte Gaming Box with a preinstalled GTX 1080](https://www.aorus.com/product-detail.php?p=601) – ~$650?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This box is a pretty good deal at $670... if you can find one. Unfortunately, as far as I can find, they're completely out of stock in normal retail channels. However, they're still in good supply from 3rd party resellers for around $600 with the card, and often significantly less without the card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Sapphire GearBox](https://sapphirenation.net/sapphire-gearbox-thunderbolt-3/) vs. [AKiTiO Node](https://www.akitio.com/expansion/node) – $259&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're both very similar budget enclosures, each with a few trade-offs. Winner of each category gets asterixes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                        | GearBox                   | Node&#xD;&#xA;    ––––––––––––––––––––+–––––––––––––––––––––––––––+––––––––––&#xD;&#xA;    PSU type-location   | fATX-int                  | *SFX-int*&#xD;&#xA;    Power delivery (PD) | *60W*                     | 15W&#xD;&#xA;    IO                  | *2x USB 3.0, 1x Ethernet* | None&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frankly, most of these features are probably unimportant given your laptop and the already beefy PSUs included out of the box. So, it's really a toss-up IMO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [Razer Core X](https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x) - $300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's bigger, has a full sized PSU, and looks prettier. It also costs more. IMO, nothing more than a runner-up if you think the others are too ugly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKmyf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8t2UG.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0u8r.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34619" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="ebaacd4d-7a12-47b5-8251-9879da30e625" CreationDate="2018-12-28T01:10:01.897" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling and some grammar" Text="I am trying to find and buy cheap computer case with 2 fan liquid cooler. Like that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problems with search&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - with &quot;liquid cooler&quot; keywords I found liquid coolers, of course (mixed with cases)&#xD;&#xA; - often &quot;liquid cooler&quot; support means that case have holes for cooler, but no place for radiator&#xD;&#xA; - often found cases with top 2 fans, but prefilled liquid cooler requires much more spase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there may be some standard or abbreviation that indentifies whether case supports the install of such coolers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/akDrd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34620" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="ebaacd4d-7a12-47b5-8251-9879da30e625" CreationDate="2018-12-28T01:10:01.897" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling and some grammar" Text="Is there any mounting standard for prefilled liquid coolers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34621" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="ebaacd4d-7a12-47b5-8251-9879da30e625" CreationDate="2018-12-28T01:10:01.897" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 912, -1 edit id of 786" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10293" RevisionGUID="a0bb169a-0ad5-43bc-a76b-abb4ada7e8aa" CreationDate="2018-12-28T01:10:01.897" UserId="7556" Comment="spelling and some grammar" Text="I am trying to find and buy cheap computer case with 2 fan liquid cooler. Like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I've been having trouble finding cases that fit this description:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - With &quot;liquid cooler&quot; keywords I found liquid coolers, of course (mixed with cases).&#xD;&#xA; - Often &quot;liquid cooler&quot; support means that case have holes for cooler, but no place for radiator.&#xD;&#xA; - Often I've found cases with top 2 fans, but not enough space for the  cooler itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some standard or abbreviation that identifies whether a case supports the installation of such coolers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/akDrd.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34623" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7006" RevisionGUID="c98005d0-dcb4-48f3-9e8c-6b2f0efba6bd" CreationDate="2018-12-28T04:05:46.030" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5820" RevisionGUID="b31cf95c-492b-4091-8812-6865f7a6a6f1" CreationDate="2018-12-28T11:09:36.630" UserId="2416" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought myself a [USB 3 flash drive][1] and thought &quot;Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from.&quot; (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Why is this?&quot; I thought to myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Someone who apparently knows what they are talking about, [told me][2]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.&#xD;&#xA;And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also tried with an [old mechanical drive][3] I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that &quot;4K random read/write speeds&quot; are the key to performance. However, [I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive][4], and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are &quot;SanDisk&quot; and &quot;WD&quot;.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Capacity should be 150 GB or more.&#xD;&#xA; - The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).&#xD;&#xA; - USB 3&#xD;&#xA; - Fast boot-time is a high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - System performance is a very, very high priority.&#xD;&#xA; - I live in India, so products available on [Indian Amazon][5] or [Indian eBay][6] are a huge plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be good if answers explained *why* the suggested product is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&amp;pid=1401#pid1401&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://web.archive.org/web/20120325175727/https://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.in/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://ebay.in" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34633" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="c1e4f6d3-8ac4-4741-be7a-ed1c3b6411d7" CreationDate="2018-12-28T15:02:15.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34637" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="6889a480-e6cf-47f1-8653-ef075221e2be" CreationDate="2018-12-28T19:03:10.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34646" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="03efb1aa-4a25-4554-a906-b489fc5abfb1" CreationDate="2018-12-29T01:02:35.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34647" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="dc95e72c-946e-44de-956b-c9e636500be0" CreationDate="2018-12-29T02:01:15.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34652" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="945" RevisionGUID="bec5bbb9-4281-4b3b-a604-1576c5a864da" CreationDate="2018-12-29T03:24:32.273" UserId="4495" Comment="image fixed (inlining HTTP images doesn't work anymore); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="I don't own one of these, so I can't say how I feel about it, but it seems interesting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a [laser keyboard][1] which is said to be &quot;fast and accurate&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Supports everything, from iOS, to Android, to Windows XP - 10, and Mac OSX&#xD;&#xA; - Is said to be &quot;accurate&quot; on Amazon page.&#xD;&#xA; - Has bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - Supports USB&#xD;&#xA; - Only weighs 5.6 ounces&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Only registers ~7 chars/second. If you can type that fast, this is a con.&#xD;&#xA; - Quoting an amazon review &#xD;&#xA;&gt; must be used on a flat surface that is non-reflective and uniform in color.&#xD;&#xA; - Quoting the same review&#xD;&#xA;&gt; laser keyboard is more difficult to see during the day than is a normal keyboard. It's bright enough to see, but in strong light, the edges are a bit hazy and when the product is new to you, this will slow you down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Customer Image][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Image][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLLXGJ0/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/7tPm1.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sITbq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34653" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="945" RevisionGUID="bec5bbb9-4281-4b3b-a604-1576c5a864da" CreationDate="2018-12-29T03:24:32.273" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 476 edit id of 787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10321" RevisionGUID="6715fcc7-8a81-4c25-83e7-27fc4e7455af" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:04:37.497" UserId="10409" Text="Dear hardware enthusiasts, I need your advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 4 years old gaming PC is currently running 2x GTX770 in SLI. I plan to upgrade to a single powerful gaming card. My budget is enough for GTX 1080 Ti, RTX 2080, or below. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering two aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I wanna feel major performance improvement (fps) in games, and&#xD;&#xA; 2. I wanna avoid that another PC part will become a bottleneck so that the new card won't be used effectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not plan to do another major investment so I will rather buy a lower card if the more powerful would make no sense on this setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming 5 + 850W power supply&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB RAM Kingston 4x8GB DDR3 1600MHz CL9 HyperX&#xD;&#xA; - 2x GIGABYTE GTX770 OC, 4GB DDR5 in SLI&#xD;&#xA; - CPU Intel Core i7-4790K&#xD;&#xA; - HDD SSD CRUCIAL MX100 512GB&#xD;&#xA; - using Philips 298P4QJEB screen with 2560x1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any feedback will be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34655" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10321" RevisionGUID="6715fcc7-8a81-4c25-83e7-27fc4e7455af" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:04:37.497" UserId="10409" Text="2x GTX770 SLI --&gt; New card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34656" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10321" RevisionGUID="6715fcc7-8a81-4c25-83e7-27fc4e7455af" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:04:37.497" UserId="10409" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34657" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10321" RevisionGUID="d723f0b7-0cf8-4e08-88ff-69d0da9fcc9a" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:11:21.840" UserId="10409" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="Dear hardware enthusiasts, I need your advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 4 years old gaming PC is currently running 2x GTX770 in SLI. I plan to upgrade to a single powerful gaming card. My budget is enough for GTX 1080 Ti, RTX 2080, or below. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering two aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I wanna feel major performance improvement (fps) in games, and&#xD;&#xA; 2. I wanna avoid that another PC part will become a bottleneck so that the new card won't be used effectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not plan to do another major investment so I will rather buy a lower card if the more powerful would make no sense on this setup. What card would you recommend me and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming 5 + 850W power supply&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB RAM Kingston 4x8GB DDR3 1600MHz CL9 HyperX&#xD;&#xA; - 2x GIGABYTE GTX770 OC, 4GB DDR5 in SLI&#xD;&#xA; - CPU Intel Core i7-4790K&#xD;&#xA; - HDD SSD CRUCIAL MX100 512GB&#xD;&#xA; - using Philips 298P4QJEB screen with 2560x1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any feedback will be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10322" RevisionGUID="ea919bbe-4b07-43c9-a4c0-9d775e710804" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:58:07.100" UserId="7556" Text="# Get a used GTX 1080 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Used 1080 Tis are easily available at [~$600](https://us.bidvoy.net/1080_ti/27386) and frequently $400-$500 for local listings, where even the cheapest RTX 2080 will run you [$700.](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#xcx=0&amp;c=427&amp;sort=price) Given that the two trade blows in benchmarks, that extra couple hundred is going exclusively towards a promise of raytracing—at least as far as gaming is concerned—and slightly better power consumption, with the slight benefit of getting a new card. These, IMO, are extremely weak benefits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding the rest of your setup, at least for gaming, nothing should bottleneck the GPU (except in a few select CPU-heavy titles such as CS:GO and sims.) More and faster storage is always a nice creature comfort though; given your motherboard has support for M.2 SSDs, you could get a new boot SSD, or even just a small SSD (maybe one with 3D XPoint?) to use as a cache for your HDD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34666" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="612db399-47e0-487d-94ab-a1b0b23a4c86" CreationDate="2018-12-29T15:01:15.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34671" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="c87aef37-eec9-4f52-8b92-8490a623d3c9" CreationDate="2018-12-30T00:02:55.663" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34672" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="eeb0d779-9188-40c1-90f6-2668731a3e49" CreationDate="2018-12-30T07:00:55.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="3adba9f3-226b-4450-b55c-24ebd7f3436e" CreationDate="2018-12-30T19:19:00.133" UserId="10420" Text="I have a condition where I must stand all the time and cannot stop waking but would like to resume programming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a strappable keyboard the would allow me to code on my cellphone will AIDE while walking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a split keyboard that I can wear on my torso while looking at my cellphone or tablet straight downwards or in front. The equipment would look like a life jacket with the keyboard on the sides of the stomach. As part of the same piece or as a hat, the cell phone could be strapped on with a regulatable wire that held the phone or tablet in front of the user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34683" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="3adba9f3-226b-4450-b55c-24ebd7f3436e" CreationDate="2018-12-30T19:19:00.133" UserId="10420" Text="Equipment for programming while walking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34684" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="3adba9f3-226b-4450-b55c-24ebd7f3436e" CreationDate="2018-12-30T19:19:00.133" UserId="10420" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34686" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10169" RevisionGUID="8baeb705-ec50-44db-a909-a57ef5894be2" CreationDate="2018-12-30T20:01:50.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10331" RevisionGUID="7531f6b7-8f95-4171-8333-a7300b8f7562" CreationDate="2018-12-31T15:52:57.977" UserId="10429" Text="Long story short, I work with a lot of RF equipment, and it would be really convenient if I could have a phone that I could truly turn *OFF* instead of having to leave it a million miles away in a shield box. So either one with a true hardware off, if such a thing exists, or one with a battery that can easily be removed and put back in. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's OK if it's an older phone, at the end of the day I just need it for calling and texting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I found this question, however it's 3 years old: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1630/android-phone-with-removeable-battery-sd-card-usb-host-otg-for-100-150)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34705" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10331" RevisionGUID="7531f6b7-8f95-4171-8333-a7300b8f7562" CreationDate="2018-12-31T15:52:57.977" UserId="10429" Text="Phone with removable battery or hardware off?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34706" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10331" RevisionGUID="7531f6b7-8f95-4171-8333-a7300b8f7562" CreationDate="2018-12-31T15:52:57.977" UserId="10429" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34717" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="e031eac6-43cb-4101-b89d-a5108fade0f2" CreationDate="2019-01-01T06:01:10.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34720" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="b654f502-8e8c-4719-ba3d-dc334cb28114" CreationDate="2019-01-01T07:01:05.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10337" RevisionGUID="3e0e2865-d8b7-444a-a459-c64f4ccebd20" CreationDate="2019-01-01T09:09:36.510" UserId="9539" Text="I'm tired of losing support of functionality in my printer/scanner due to new operating system versions.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a printer/scanner that can work with no drivers, i.e. has a web server with full printing and scanning capabilities.  &#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find proper documentation on the web server capabilities of each printer model.  &#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know which printer models have a web server with these capabilities?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34728" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10337" RevisionGUID="3e0e2865-d8b7-444a-a459-c64f4ccebd20" CreationDate="2019-01-01T09:09:36.510" UserId="9539" Text="Truly driverless printer scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34729" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10337" RevisionGUID="3e0e2865-d8b7-444a-a459-c64f4ccebd20" CreationDate="2019-01-01T09:09:36.510" UserId="9539" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34730" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="920da68c-cc66-409b-b588-0623ed5a0b48" CreationDate="2019-01-01T13:01:10.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34731" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="5820aa5f-6fdf-4926-a0b0-253040bda9bf" CreationDate="2019-01-01T15:02:10.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34739" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="8a3a0e73-df8a-4fef-9f54-9304f9708958" CreationDate="2019-01-02T02:01:00.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10339" RevisionGUID="946ba0ea-c003-491b-ac05-ac774ec14d9c" CreationDate="2019-01-02T02:38:37.343" UserId="10438" Text="I've got a laptop with thunderbolt 3 slots and was thinking about getting  an external gpu enclosure but since the thunderbolt 3 protocol itself supports interfacing with pcie. Why are there so few products? And why are there no simple adapters? &#xD;&#xA;If it's inherent to the protocol it shouldn't be hard to build a simple adapter to set it into pcie mode and interface accordingly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any products out there I am missing? Like a direct thunderbolt 3 to pci adapter (similar to a pcie riser) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or is it more complicated than I am imagining? Like if someone wanted to build their own adapter would it be possible or are their some protocol licenses to be aquired as well as some special hardware other than the right connectors and a microcontroller maybe?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I found this link where(when translated) the author suggests that you could basically wire a usb-c cable to a usb-a 3.0 cable and use a riser][1]&#xD;&#xA;But is it really that simple? In that article it's mentioned that ethernet adapters for thunderbolt basically use pcie internally. I thought I would need some chip to set it &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.osslab.com.tw/diy-thunderbolt-to-pcie/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34741" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10339" RevisionGUID="946ba0ea-c003-491b-ac05-ac774ec14d9c" CreationDate="2019-01-02T02:38:37.343" UserId="10438" Text="thunderbolt 3 to pci express adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34742" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10339" RevisionGUID="946ba0ea-c003-491b-ac05-ac774ec14d9c" CreationDate="2019-01-02T02:38:37.343" UserId="10438" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34743" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="46dc69b1-448f-47d1-a975-e8a0d9967f89" CreationDate="2019-01-02T03:01:55.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10343" RevisionGUID="f4f251b8-5c82-43fe-a425-c41040897927" CreationDate="2019-01-02T11:52:38.793" UserId="10135" Text="It's funny how you tagged your question &quot;smartphones&quot;, asking for this functionality.  Practically all non-smartphones will be truly off when you turn off their power.  So get a flip phone; or, if you need more functionality, there's plenty more advanced non-smartphones, such as Samsung Star 2, or a variety of Blackberries." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34751" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10344" RevisionGUID="6ae6941e-1851-42de-a576-f3bfeda8276e" CreationDate="2019-01-02T12:02:09.807" UserId="10135" Text="Since it is a rare medical condition, I'm not aware of any such market device existing.  You can ask your doctor, who should be familiar with more people in your situation, and might be able to suggest something.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, you can make a DIY solution.  Get a strap, such as a guitar strap.  To this strap, attach a surface shaped to your body; a piece of sheet aluminum would be rigid enough and light enough for the job; you might have to cut it yourself with metal scissors.  Make sure to pad the side that touches your body.  Finally, on top of it, you can put a [split keyboard][1].  If you cut your surface right, it would also have a spot for the tablet.  This should do the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Kinesis-Freestyle2-Ergonomic-Keyboard-Separation/dp/B0089ZV1C4/ref=asc_df_B0089ZV1C4/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=241965663546&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=9068870971542873862&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9010450&amp;hvtargid=pla-408914984391&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34754" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10347" RevisionGUID="3e8ee4a4-47de-4001-acc2-c6e68718dd4f" CreationDate="2019-01-02T12:24:56.010" UserId="10135" Text="Look on NewEgg.com: they allow customizing precisely such quantities, when filtering the laptops to display.  The exact search is [here][1], and as you can see you can currently [get this configuration][2] for under $500.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100006740%20601286800%20600004346%20601286795%20601301242%20601310336%20600136700%20600337010%20600440394%20601107729%20601183480%20601296059%20601311244&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=PRICE&amp;PageSize=36&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIADT282D7426" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10348" RevisionGUID="dac3f825-84fd-4f58-9359-668335131e99" CreationDate="2019-01-02T12:42:02.957" UserId="10135" Text="I believe a [standard USB-C splitter][1] would do the job, no?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aukey.life/products/cbc48-usb-c-hub-2-port-usb-3-0-2-port-usb-c-1-port-usb-c-with-pd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34756" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10294" RevisionGUID="d482487d-151f-4f5f-8ed3-82b6359dcfa8" CreationDate="2019-01-02T13:03:52.970" UserId="10135" Comment="Added tag." Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34757" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10294" RevisionGUID="d482487d-151f-4f5f-8ed3-82b6359dcfa8" CreationDate="2019-01-02T13:03:52.970" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 10366 edit id of 789" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10337" RevisionGUID="9b564846-1a56-442f-879e-f21c7abb1fd7" CreationDate="2019-01-02T16:32:09.073" UserId="9539" Comment="There might be other ways to achieve the same goal" Text="I'm tired of losing support of functionality in my printer/scanner due to new operating system versions.  &#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a printer/scanner that can work with no drivers. I have read that this can be achieved with an embedded web server that has full printing and scanning capabilities.  &#xD;&#xA;I haven't been able to find proper documentation on the web server capabilities of each printer model.  &#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know which printer models have a web server with these capabilities?  &#xA;Alternatively, can anyone suggest other ways to have a printer/scanner without needing to install drivers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34772" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10352" RevisionGUID="ea29268a-fc47-4b8c-9399-1a5c48877242" CreationDate="2019-01-02T20:02:01.163" UserId="106" Text="There is no really alternative to GPD Win currently as a handheld Steam-available gaming device (except... GPD Win 2 probably).  &#xA;I ended up getting the GPD Win ; I played a bit more on it recently (after having applied the recommended tweaks) and like it a lot. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34773" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="00d05bb3-6520-495e-8098-850e3b082f92" CreationDate="2019-01-02T20:02:15.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34775" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1659" RevisionGUID="47d2a56c-38a6-4feb-98fd-e023bd8566c7" CreationDate="2019-01-03T04:04:05.933" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34780" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10354" RevisionGUID="5293203c-28c2-40f8-91b9-82e4df867a3e" CreationDate="2019-01-03T14:05:28.673" UserId="5442" Text="I have a Gigabyte F2A88XM-HD3 motherboard which has 4 memory slots. In two of these slots I have two Corsair CMV8GX3M1A133 1333 Mhz DDR3 8G modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/advisor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;to search motherboard-compatible memory modules but that does not tell me whether it will work with my existing modules.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I find 8G DDR3 memory modules that work flawlessly with my existing Corsair modules?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34781" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10354" RevisionGUID="5293203c-28c2-40f8-91b9-82e4df867a3e" CreationDate="2019-01-03T14:05:28.673" UserId="5442" Text="Searching memory for motherboard and existing memory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34782" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10354" RevisionGUID="5293203c-28c2-40f8-91b9-82e4df867a3e" CreationDate="2019-01-03T14:05:28.673" UserId="5442" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10355" RevisionGUID="2f1e8b8c-f23f-4005-bd39-c27b9d977a56" CreationDate="2019-01-03T14:51:13.463" UserId="4896" Text="The closest you will get to 'flawless' is a matched set of 4 sticks that are specifically recorded as compatible by the mobo manufacturer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is not an option for you, if you want to re-use your existing RAM. You could instead buy a matched *pair* of sticks of the same model as you currently have. While not a fully matched set, you should not have any problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You are not going to be able to buy a pair of Crucial sticks that are *perfectly* compatible with your existing Corsair one. However, if you buy a pair that are both supported by the mobo and have the same timings (e.g. 9-9-9-24) as the Corsair ones, you almost certainly won't have a problem. Usually the RAM timings are included in the RAM specs in the online stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And even if you put RAM with the same speeds but different timings, most modern motherboards can be configured to work in some sort of Auto mode that will find the best fit for your installed RAM. And almost certainly you will not notice any difference in real-world performance or reliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summary: If it were me, I'd buy 2 more of the Corsair sticks or would get 2 x near identical Crucial sticks and would expect them to work without any problems, but if you want a placebo level of reassurance, buy a matched set of 4 sticks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: it is a good idea when you get new RAM is to run [MemTest86][1] overnight to tease out any potential problems - if you RAM passes such a test, you know you are in good order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10356" RevisionGUID="057cffa5-27fe-4540-bcfa-b0cab9a23d6d" CreationDate="2019-01-03T15:27:36.170" UserId="10453" Text="I would like to buy an ARM board that has true hardware video acceleration decoding for H.264, H.265 &amp; VP8/9 and also has all required software drivers for linux available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried boards like Asus TinkerBoard and.. They sell them claiming that have H.264 &amp; H.264 decoding acceleration but at the moment of truth, it turns out that they lack/poorly have the software part. So it's basically useless.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10356" RevisionGUID="057cffa5-27fe-4540-bcfa-b0cab9a23d6d" CreationDate="2019-01-03T15:27:36.170" UserId="10453" Text="ARM Board with true video acceleration support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10356" RevisionGUID="057cffa5-27fe-4540-bcfa-b0cab9a23d6d" CreationDate="2019-01-03T15:27:36.170" UserId="10453" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34787" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10356" RevisionGUID="5d6d46a0-0bf9-4848-8a80-11e69a4aba53" CreationDate="2019-01-03T15:45:53.097" UserId="10453" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34791" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10358" RevisionGUID="59307ee0-716d-4687-8b6a-0316c50fd9a9" CreationDate="2019-01-03T17:11:32.110" UserId="10455" Text="The new Martel Dragon Stenomask has an all-digital USB microphone that improves the speech recognition. Setting the new Standard for real-time voice recognition for court reporters. see it here. [Revolutionary Dragon Stenomask for Court Reporters.][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks Carl &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.martelelectronics.com/revolutionary-dragon-stenomask-for-voice-recognition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34792" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="312" RevisionGUID="02da0e86-6fb4-417a-a949-0b9db1b7ed9f" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:15:22.403" UserId="4495" Comment="OS X is now called macOS; maybe the tag should be renamed as well" Text="For questions asking for devices using, compatible with, or interfacing with, Apple's macOS (formerly called OS X)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34793" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="312" RevisionGUID="02da0e86-6fb4-417a-a949-0b9db1b7ed9f" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:15:22.403" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 912, 60 edit id of 784" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34794" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10306" RevisionGUID="b5e3d9df-b9ba-4275-a24d-a0b04d73606f" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:17:34.877" UserId="10135" Comment="Added tag." Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34795" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10306" RevisionGUID="b5e3d9df-b9ba-4275-a24d-a0b04d73606f" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:17:34.877" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 60 edit id of 788" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10361" RevisionGUID="9266c540-d8d2-489c-8ed9-6b0d77b7d298" CreationDate="2019-01-04T15:23:39.203" UserId="10463" Text="I'm looking for a JavaCard model that supports dual-interface (ISO 7816+14443), with ECDSA acceleration and optionally I2C interface. Available in wafer for custom NFC antenna and flip-chipping. Do you have any recommendation or comparison resource for such products?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mario." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34809" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10361" RevisionGUID="9266c540-d8d2-489c-8ed9-6b0d77b7d298" CreationDate="2019-01-04T15:23:39.203" UserId="10463" Text="Dual-interface JavaCard on wafer with ECDSA (and I2C)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34810" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10361" RevisionGUID="9266c540-d8d2-489c-8ed9-6b0d77b7d298" CreationDate="2019-01-04T15:23:39.203" UserId="10463" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;nfc&gt;&lt;smartcards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34819" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9641" RevisionGUID="af6c895a-72f0-4132-abdc-00d3d5643734" CreationDate="2019-01-04T19:01:20.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34823" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9273" RevisionGUID="50cf7226-9ff9-4ea5-bcec-632af0341ed0" CreationDate="2019-01-04T20:01:05.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34827" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="ab556a42-b6e5-4ed7-be45-a938af6091f0" CreationDate="2019-01-04T22:02:40.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4040" RevisionGUID="676a9d72-dda6-4bfa-9b8d-255b3ffdbf29" CreationDate="2019-01-05T04:05:20.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10339" RevisionGUID="ff93ff90-e564-4f2d-bea1-2a74236ff1a3" CreationDate="2019-01-05T21:25:20.220" UserId="10438" Comment="deleted 707 characters in body" Text="I've got a laptop with thunderbolt 3 slots and was thinking about getting  an external gpu enclosure but since the thunderbolt 3 protocol itself supports interfacing with pcie. Why are there so few products?&#xD;&#xA;What I'm looking for is a basic thunderbolt 3 to pcie adaptor basically just the cable with the necessary controller board. Does something like this exist? It must right? I'd be fine to buy from aliexpress or similar if it's necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34838" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5830" RevisionGUID="cf3fa0f6-44b9-40ad-8046-97b292659709" CreationDate="2019-01-05T22:40:51.627" UserId="531" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="There's apparently NUC style passively cooled machines meant for displays that would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Discourse uses [something *very* similar internally][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been toying with [buying one of these][2] and it probably ticks off most of your boxes - *intel* ethernet, and 4 ports (realtek's a pain). I've run linux on a very similar platform. With the right variant, you got USB 3.0 + 2.5 inch drives, or msata &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So yeah, they exist and for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-scooter-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/QOTOM-Mini-PC-Q190G4-with-4-LAN-port-using-pfsense-as-small-router-firewall-fanless-PC/1000001826190.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5830" RevisionGUID="25b80644-dd6c-4d9b-82d8-7d0b4d711d48" CreationDate="2019-01-06T00:02:40.973" UserId="531" Comment="added 250 characters in body" Text="There's apparently NUC style passively cooled machines meant for displays that would work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Discourse uses [something *very* similar internally][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been toying with [buying one of these][2] and it probably ticks off most of your boxes - *intel* ethernet, and 4 ports (realtek's a pain). I've run linux on a very similar platform. With the right variant, you got USB 3.0 + 2.5 inch drives, or msata.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up picking up a slightly fancier model but you can get a 2 port model with a j 1800 or 1900, ram and storage for about us $150 upwards. It's fairly robust, has Intel lan adaptors (which I find better than realtek) and basic video outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So yeah, they exist and for not much money. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-scooter-computer/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/QOTOM-Mini-PC-Q190G4-with-4-LAN-port-using-pfsense-as-small-router-firewall-fanless-PC/1000001826190.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34840" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="6e55fc92-e126-4407-87e3-9259a6fbcadf" CreationDate="2019-01-06T01:01:35.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34841" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="4bd3cfc1-c401-4e45-a629-b47fd673ac5a" CreationDate="2019-01-06T02:02:55.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="b2ee7ea2-1e75-4591-9e47-a6071c801478" CreationDate="2019-01-06T09:07:14.203" UserId="1410" Text="I am trying to design an employee tracking system, to track employees from room to room, for saftey purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6920/tracking-employee-location) led me to [this solution](http://www.beacon-line.com/), which provides a system to track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if requires each tracked object/person to carry a WiFI device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution would seem to be a cheap Android 'phone, but that might not always be practical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other cheap Wifi device, which will obviously have to be battery powered, with enough battery life to last a full working shift, let's say 12 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, bear in mind that the device and battery must be worn in an industrail environment, so should be robust, and also easy to charge overnight, ready for the next shift.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(or, is there an alternative system, uing BTLE, RFID, whatever?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34844" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="b2ee7ea2-1e75-4591-9e47-a6071c801478" CreationDate="2019-01-06T09:07:14.203" UserId="1410" Text="Wearable WifI with long battery life (12 hours)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34845" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="b2ee7ea2-1e75-4591-9e47-a6071c801478" CreationDate="2019-01-06T09:07:14.203" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;passive-tracker&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34846" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="999bda6b-c33f-4c23-a851-bb84506d3f69" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:01:30.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10369" RevisionGUID="0e3afebc-d219-4e68-b868-f9b11dd43eca" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:09:29.097" UserId="10475" Text="I have thousands of computer CDs and DVDs with some data. I want to backup them in an automated way (i.e. not change disc by disc by hand).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this Auto Ripper hack project](https://hackaday.io/project/11836-auto-ripper-bddvd-changer-for-automated-ripping), and [this RipBox station](https://www.vinpowerdigital.com/main/product.aspx?CategoryID=51&amp;Keyword=RipBox). Are these the only two options? What other options are there? Maybe just a regular DVD drive + a robot arm?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Not sure if this is the right StackExchange site to ask. Please, before voting to close, please at least give me an advice where to ask instead. On [SuperUser](https://superuser.com/questions/1391183/how-to-automatically-backup-thousands-of-computer-cds-and-dvds) it was suggested to ask here.)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34848" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10369" RevisionGUID="0e3afebc-d219-4e68-b868-f9b11dd43eca" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:09:29.097" UserId="10475" Text="How to automatically backup thousands of computer CDs and DVDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34849" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10369" RevisionGUID="0e3afebc-d219-4e68-b868-f9b11dd43eca" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:09:29.097" UserId="10475" Text="&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10370" RevisionGUID="07667de7-bfdf-46f1-9aa1-8889b7a6e763" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:33:46.427" UserId="10475" Text="I have seen this a few times. E.g. [this](https://8thlight.com/blog/doug-bradbury/2010/02/25/walk-and-code.html), where you use a treadmill with a standing desk. Or [this](http://smarterware.org/2010/07/ikea-jerker-do-it-yourself-treadmill-desk/)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10371" RevisionGUID="1afc2de4-83d1-4063-9036-b1ea71866762" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:50:04.880" UserId="10475" Text="I want to buy a computer which is quiet, i.e. I can leave it in my bedroom without noticing it (under normal load; I might rarely do some heavy processing, where I can accept that I would hear the fan, or on lots of HDD access, it's ok if I quietly hear the HDD; mostly very similar to my MacBook). Also, it should not consume too much energy (because it should run permanently; again similar as my MacBook). It should come in a tower where it is easy to install further disks or other hardware (unlike my MacBook). It also should have wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially, this will mostly be a fileserver, running Linux. Maybe additionally some software like [Perkeep](http://perkeep.org), which needs lots of RAM (10GB or so) as far as I know. But maybe I want to run some other stuff (some scripts, maybe home automation stuff) later on it as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking a bit around. But already for the power supply, I did not found much without an active cooler.&#xD;&#xA;Maybe water cooling? But as far as I know, this also has some active cooling element?&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a solution which only comes with passive cooling, if something like this exists.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34852" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10371" RevisionGUID="1afc2de4-83d1-4063-9036-b1ea71866762" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:50:04.880" UserId="10475" Text="Quiet/fanless computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34853" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10371" RevisionGUID="1afc2de4-83d1-4063-9036-b1ea71866762" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:50:04.880" UserId="10475" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10371" RevisionGUID="b7712808-40d2-45a5-bd02-7b5a6432da94" CreationDate="2019-01-06T16:00:44.010" UserId="10475" Comment="added 305 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a computer which is quiet, i.e. I can leave it in my bedroom without noticing it (under normal load; I might rarely do some heavy processing, where I can accept that I would hear the fan, or on lots of HDD access, it's ok if I quietly hear the HDD; mostly very similar to my MacBook). Also, it should not consume too much energy (because it should run permanently; again similar as my MacBook). It should come in a tower where it is easy to install further disks or other hardware (unlike my MacBook). It also should have wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially, this will mostly be a fileserver, running Linux. Maybe additionally some software like [Perkeep](http://perkeep.org), which needs lots of RAM (10GB or so) as far as I know. But maybe I want to run some other stuff (some scripts, maybe home automation stuff) later on it as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking a bit around. But already for the power supply, I did not found much without an active cooler.&#xD;&#xA;Maybe water cooling? But as far as I know, this also has some active cooling element?&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a solution which only comes with passive cooling, if something like this exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Related question is [here](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/3917/fanless-mini-pc-for-linux), but I don't really want a mini PC (or at least not necessarily). Preferably I also want to buy the individual components separately and configure it how I like it, at least if that is cheaper.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34855" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="e3415db3-c1d3-4945-bbaa-09298e23a74b" CreationDate="2019-01-06T17:01:40.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34858" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="3d766c37-720b-4297-add2-4f92033e8414" CreationDate="2019-01-06T19:01:10.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="bc6ea917-1596-4c34-9d32-ea0d71bedc59" CreationDate="2019-01-06T19:26:21.137" UserId="10476" Text="I'm looking for hardware configuration pieces of advice. I'm having 2 computers, one hyperconvergent server, and one workstation for which I'm planning the hardware. The workstation will be for dev and research. For this one, in a nutshell I'm having 2 hardware possibilities, A and B. I'm having 2 important factors: 1) ethernet speed 2) cuda compute. Other factors: system stability at factory frequencies and overclocked ones, extensibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A. Maximus XI Formula, two 2080ti with NVlink, and a connexion to a hyperconvergent server through a 10Gbit (switch and server) ethernet connexion. The Formula had only 5Gbit connexion. The two 2080ti will have 8x and 8x connexion with the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Maximus XI Hero, two 2080ti with NVlink, one 10Gbit PCIE 4x for the connexion to the 10Gbit server. I think I'll have 8x and 4x connexion with the 2080ti, and 4x for the NIC 10 Gbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. can you confirm the PCI speeds in the B case, as well as the deep learning hardware requirements ?&#xD;&#xA;2. which configuration would you recommend, and why ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="bc6ea917-1596-4c34-9d32-ea0d71bedc59" CreationDate="2019-01-06T19:26:21.137" UserId="10476" Text="Motherboard + NIC advice for dev/research workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="bc6ea917-1596-4c34-9d32-ea0d71bedc59" CreationDate="2019-01-06T19:26:21.137" UserId="10476" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34862" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="fbfe586f-61fd-4a17-a2fa-d33a94769854" CreationDate="2019-01-06T21:02:10.447" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34863" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10373" RevisionGUID="683ebe7b-72aa-4b85-af83-883971a162b7" CreationDate="2019-01-06T21:48:57.643" UserId="10477" Text="I already have an ASUS UX430 laptop that works perfectly with 2 HDMI display, which totals 3 displays with the integrated display; this my own personal display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I needed another laptop and identified the ASUS UX433FN laptop which is about the same as UX430 a little more &quot;high-end&quot;. I just received the laptop, but it appears it doesn't support 2 HDMI displays like the previous model UX430!! I mean 1 HDMI display is connected on the integrated HDMI plug, and the second display is connected through the USB-C (SuperSpeed+ USB 3.1 Gen 2) plug of the UX433.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very much disappointed by ASUS here, because the very same setup is working with the UX430 (SuperSpeed USB 3.1 Gen 1), but not the UX433.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it a temporary lack of software support? Note that I tested with Ubuntu 18.04LTS as well as a daily build pre-version of the future Ubuntu 19.04, and also with MS-Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it a hardware limitation of the ASUS UX433 compared to the UX430?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware solution would _you_ recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A reseller suggested I buy an additional HDMI graphics card to plug on USB 3.0... What do you think of this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34864" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10373" RevisionGUID="683ebe7b-72aa-4b85-af83-883971a162b7" CreationDate="2019-01-06T21:48:57.643" UserId="10477" Text="ASUS UX433FN how to have multiple HDMI displays?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34865" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10373" RevisionGUID="683ebe7b-72aa-4b85-af83-883971a162b7" CreationDate="2019-01-06T21:48:57.643" UserId="10477" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34866" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10373" RevisionGUID="635d7ca0-ff78-4dae-b04b-b22e544b3991" CreationDate="2019-01-06T21:54:33.537" UserId="10477" Comment="Minor edits" Text="I already have an ASUS UX430 laptop that works perfectly with 2 HDMI displays, which totals 3 displays with the integrated display; this my own personal display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I needed another laptop and identified the ASUS UX433FN laptop which is about the same as UX430 but a little more &quot;high-end&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just received the new laptop, an ASUS UX433FN, but it appears it doesn't support 2 HDMI displays like the previous model UX430!! I mean 1 HDMI display is connected on the integrated HDMI plug, and the second display is connected through the USB-C (SuperSpeed+ USB 3.1 Gen 2) plug of the UX433.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very much disappointed by ASUS here, because the very same setup is working with the UX430 (SuperSpeed USB 3.1 Gen 1), but not the UX433.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it a temporary lack of software support? Note that I tested with Ubuntu 18.04LTS as well as a daily build pre-version of the future Ubuntu 19.04, and also with MS-Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Is it a hardware limitation of the ASUS UX433 compared to the UX430?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware solution would _you_ recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A reseller suggested I buy an additional HDMI graphics card to plug on USB 3.0... What do you think of this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any help.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34868" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="7b8ba7d7-2112-459c-9e05-54b9770a6393" CreationDate="2019-01-06T22:24:54.047" UserId="10476" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for hardware configuration pieces of advice. I'm having 2 computers, one hyperconvergent server, and one workstation for which I'm planning the hardware. The workstation will be for dev and research. For this one, in a nutshell I'm having 2 hardware possibilities, A and B. I'm having 2 important factors: 1) ethernet speed 2) cuda compute. Other factors: system stability at factory frequencies and overclocked ones, extensibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A. Maximus XI Formula Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, and a connexion to a hyperconvergent server through a 10Gbit (switch and server) ethernet connexion. The Formula had only 5Gbit connexion. The two 2080ti will have 8x and 8x connexion with the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Maximus XI Hero Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, one 10Gbit PCIE 4x for the connexion to the 10Gbit server. I think I'll have 8x and 4x connexion with the 2080ti, and 4x for the NIC 10 Gbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. can you confirm the PCI speeds in the B case, as well as the deep learning hardware requirements ?&#xD;&#xA;2. which configuration would you recommend, and why ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34869" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="f8957037-a071-43ce-b873-33391b82393b" CreationDate="2019-01-06T23:00:50.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="160ef8a5-5890-44a4-b883-e24037d840a5" CreationDate="2019-01-06T23:17:25.913" UserId="10476" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for hardware configuration pieces of advice. I'm having 2 computers, one hyperconvergent server, and one workstation for which I'm planning the hardware. The workstation will be for dev and research. For this one, in a nutshell I'm having 2 hardware possibilities, A and B. I'm having 2 important factors: 1) ethernet speed 2) cuda compute. Other factors: system stability at factory frequencies and overclocked ones, extensibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A. Maximus XI Formula Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, and a connexion to a hyperconvergent server through a 10Gbit (switch and server) ethernet connexion. The Formula had only 5Gbit connexion. The two 2080ti will have 8x and 8x connexion with the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Maximus XI Hero Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, one 10Gbit PCIE 4x for the connexion to the 10Gbit server. I think I'll have 8x and 4x connexion with the 2080ti, and 4x for the NIC 10 Gbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In a nutshell I have 5Gbit and 32 lines vs 10Gbit and 28 lines**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. can you confirm the PCI speeds in the B case, as well as the deep learning hardware requirements ?&#xD;&#xA;2. which configuration would you recommend, and why ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10374" RevisionGUID="7779a4fe-643a-4055-a2ac-5a8881ca3425" CreationDate="2019-01-06T23:43:01.113" UserId="10476" Text="The more powerfull (TDP (thermal dissipation power) in watt) the computer, the more you need to cool it down. You can combine one of several of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick **low energy** components (CPUs).&#xD;&#xA; - You **increase the radiator surface** and **lower the fans speed**. For instance, your can take a bid CPU cooler such as the Dark Rock pro 4, or use multiple watercooling radiators (which can be large: 360 , 480, and thick: 6cm for the EKWB XE).&#xD;&#xA; - In the case of water cooling, pick an **efficient** radiator and designed for *low speed* air flow. Hardwarelabs has a full spectrum of radiators optimized for different airflow speeds; pick one for low speed. Extremerigs does many reviews and can help you to pick those you're looking for.&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick a case that is designed to **absorb sound frequencies**, such as Fractal Design cases (the Define series).&#xD;&#xA; - You can use a **silent profile** in the BIOS in order to drive quietly all the fans.&#xD;&#xA; - Then you can put the PC in a distant place (eg. under the desk). Just remember that the **noise energy decrease in a law of d^-3** (where d is distance) in an open space, d^-2 if it's between 2 boards/walls, d^-1 if it's in a tube. Hence **space design**,  **placement** and **room** matters too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10372" RevisionGUID="84b54e0a-6e7d-4102-adaa-939af827689d" CreationDate="2019-01-07T00:37:57.963" UserId="10476" Comment="added 70 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for hardware configuration pieces of advice. I'm having 2 computers, one hyperconvergent server, and one workstation for which I'm planning the hardware. The workstation will be for dev and research. For this one, in a nutshell I'm having 2 hardware possibilities, A and B. I'm having 2 important factors: 1) ethernet speed 2) cuda compute. Other factors: system stability at factory frequencies and overclocked ones, extensibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A. Maximus XI Formula Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, and a connexion to a hyperconvergent server through a 10Gbit (switch and server) ethernet connexion. The Formula had only 5Gbit connexion. The two 2080ti will have 8x and 8x connexion with the motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Maximus XI Hero Z390, two 2080ti with NVlink, one 10Gbit PCIE 4x for the connexion to the 10Gbit server. I think I'll have 8x and 4x connexion with the 2080ti, and 4x for the NIC 10 Gbit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In a nutshell I have 5Gbit and 32 lines vs 10Gbit and 28 lines**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. can you confirm the PCI speeds in the B case, as well as the deep learning hardware requirements ?&#xD;&#xA;2. which configuration would you recommend, and why ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[0] http://timdettmers.com/2018/12/16/deep-learning-hardware-guide/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10377" RevisionGUID="1dcc5f09-dc40-4ebb-b692-1cbe899e3f02" CreationDate="2019-01-07T01:18:34.010" UserId="5440" Text="I'm not really familiar with why this is and what specifically is lacking, but in the official spec sheet, this is a difference between the two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [UX430UQ][1] lists: ***1 x Type-C™ USB 3.1 Gen 1 with support for external display***    &#xD;&#xA;While the [UX433FN][2] lists: ***1 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C™ (up to 10Gbps)***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external USB Graphics Card (something like [this][3]) is certainly a solution that can work, but it may be a bit tricky with Linux support if supported at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ASUS-ZenBook-UX430UQ/Tech-Specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ASUS-ZenBook-14-UX433FN/Tech-Specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://amzn.to/2C3iM2C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34879" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="4405b886-3afa-4071-bfd4-fa99da7ed88e" CreationDate="2019-01-07T02:02:00.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34882" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="6366dc22-e91a-4fab-b604-ac45914d3322" CreationDate="2019-01-07T05:02:30.510" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34889" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="b9f2e7f7-a4be-492d-8696-a49a0393aa5c" CreationDate="2019-01-07T07:34:31.337" UserId="1410" Comment="added 195 characters in body" Text="I am trying to design an employee tracking system, to track employees from room to room, for saftey purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6920/tracking-employee-location) led me to [this solution](http://www.beacon-line.com/), which provides a system to track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if requires each tracked object/person to carry a WiFI device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution would seem to be a cheap Android 'phone, but that might not always be practical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other cheap Wifi device, which will obviously have to be battery powered, with enough battery life to last a full working shift, let's say 12 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, bear in mind that the device and battery must be worn in an industrail environment, so should be robust, and also easy to charge overnight, ready for the next shift.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(or, is there an alternative system, uing BTLE, RFID, whatever?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I am thinking of a cheap Android watch, so that I can program it. Of course, there will be a price/battery life trade-off, but programmability is a great advantage for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34893" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="3bc42a5e-86cf-473e-8f59-ec0af7b2e6d8" CreationDate="2019-01-07T10:01:40.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34894" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10369" RevisionGUID="5f5103b2-3f28-4d14-b61b-69bc3bff3f62" CreationDate="2019-01-07T12:11:55.450" UserId="10475" Comment="added 322 characters in body" Text="I have thousands of computer CDs and DVDs with some data. I want to backup them in an automated way (i.e. not change disc by disc by hand).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Auto Ripper hackaday project](https://hackaday.io/project/11836-auto-ripper-bddvd-changer-for-automated-ripping)&#xD;&#xA;* [Vinpower RipBox station](https://www.vinpowerdigital.com/main/product.aspx?CategoryID=51&amp;Keyword=RipBox) (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;* [Nimbie Disc Autoloader](http://www.nimbie.com/cd-dvd-autoloader-ripper-overview.html#data) (via [davidgo](https://superuser.com/users/137786/davidgo) [comment](https://superuser.com/questions/1391183/how-to-automatically-backup-thousands-of-computer-cds-and-dvds?noredirect=1#comment2098177_1391183)) (extremely expensive. but &quot;autoloader&quot; seems to be a good search term)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these the only options? What other options are there? Maybe just a regular DVD drive + a robot arm?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Not sure if this is the right StackExchange site to ask. Please, before voting to close, please at least give me an advice where to ask instead. On [SuperUser](https://superuser.com/questions/1391183/how-to-automatically-backup-thousands-of-computer-cds-and-dvds) it was suggested to ask here.)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34895" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10369" RevisionGUID="fad70714-2ca9-4ea4-9b49-a7b8ecf8cf74" CreationDate="2019-01-07T12:20:49.003" UserId="10475" Comment="added 322 characters in body" Text="I have thousands of computer CDs and DVDs with some data. I want to backup them in an automated way (i.e. not change disc by disc by hand).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found this so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Auto Ripper hackaday project](https://hackaday.io/project/11836-auto-ripper-bddvd-changer-for-automated-ripping)&#xD;&#xA;* [Vinpower RipBox station](https://www.vinpowerdigital.com/main/product.aspx?CategoryID=51&amp;Keyword=RipBox) (expensive)&#xD;&#xA;* [Nimbie Disc Autoloader](http://www.nimbie.com/cd-dvd-autoloader-ripper-overview.html#data) (via [davidgo](https://superuser.com/users/137786/davidgo) [comment](https://superuser.com/questions/1391183/how-to-automatically-backup-thousands-of-computer-cds-and-dvds?noredirect=1#comment2098177_1391183)) (extremely expensive)&#xD;&#xA;* [DIY autoloader hackaday project](https://hackaday.com/2013/10/05/diy-cd-autoloader/) ([original German source](http://www.hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki/index.php?title=DIY-Autoloader#.2F), [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U8RGKXI6t0), [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6toB3w7e_Q))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are these the only options? What other options are there?&#xD;&#xA;Maybe just a regular DVD drive + a robot arm?&#xD;&#xA;(&quot;autoloader&quot; seems to be a good search term, better than &quot;disc changer&quot; what I used initially.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Not sure if this is the right StackExchange site to ask. Please, before voting to close, please at least give me an advice where to ask instead. On [SuperUser](https://superuser.com/questions/1391183/how-to-automatically-backup-thousands-of-computer-cds-and-dvds) it was suggested to ask here.)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10159" RevisionGUID="b6599f93-9e7f-453b-8017-3c0d556a7b32" CreationDate="2019-01-07T13:32:09.890" UserId="1461" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="After I asked some repair shops, the right size for the N5110 is 12.7mm, but you can still use the 9mm too" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34898" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10280" RevisionGUID="8d372d2a-0f19-4552-a3ff-da5a707b3dc6" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:19:14.280" UserId="10135" Comment="Added tag." Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34899" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10280" RevisionGUID="8d372d2a-0f19-4552-a3ff-da5a707b3dc6" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:19:14.280" Comment="Proposed by 10135 approved by 912, 60 edit id of 790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10381" RevisionGUID="31672edd-6071-4328-9820-354690b5a811" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:52:00.540" UserId="10477" Text="ASUS does not provide display support on the USB-C connector for the UX433 (nor for the UX333). Display support is present for the equivalent 15&quot; model UX533.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only clue is a small difference in the technical specs.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ASUS-Zenbook-14-UX433FN/Tech-Specs/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;doesn't mention the display:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Interfaces    1 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C™ (up to 10Gbps)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;whereas this page:&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ASUS-Zenbook-15-UX533FD/Tech-Specs/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;clearly states that it is supported:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Interfaces    1 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C™ (up to 10Gbps) **with display support**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks to Yisroel Tech for the original answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34914" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10373" RevisionGUID="56fc81c9-a6b3-4eb7-ad83-f8ec87248555" CreationDate="2019-01-07T21:39:41.603" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="34915" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="c6b6c6b6-e839-4238-938f-9493005cee38" CreationDate="2019-01-07T23:03:15.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34916" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="270b19da-4b07-4e4c-a636-e114dcc453cf" CreationDate="2019-01-08T04:04:35.803" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10386" RevisionGUID="dd5bf3c6-7fa5-46a3-827d-629a081d9943" CreationDate="2019-01-08T08:41:56.413" UserId="30" Text="Minifree offers the [**Libre WNDR3800 Router**](https://minifree.org/product/minifree-wndr3800-libre-router/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are refurbished Netgear WNDR3800 or WNDR3800-1CHNAS routers that come pre-installed with free software only (uboot, [libreCMC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LibreCMC)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it has no RYF certification as of 2019-01-08, Minifree submitted the router for approval:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It’s a completely FSF-endorseable router: in fact, Minifree has sent the FSF a router for [RYF evaluation](https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom). We are confident that this will succeed, and our laptops are already endorsed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34932" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="976" RevisionGUID="a7546aa6-535f-4ee9-9bc7-0e70be077f72" CreationDate="2019-01-08T13:02:00.540" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34936" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="44e0d41b-54d9-4d51-b7d7-e1b28d7ad6cc" CreationDate="2019-01-08T17:02:15.557" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="34937" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10374" RevisionGUID="6ce1a9a6-d080-4b60-a56a-a9b79220db8f" CreationDate="2019-01-08T17:12:35.193" UserId="10476" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="The more powerfull (TDP (thermal dissipation power) in watt) the computer, the more you need to cool it down. You can combine one of several of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick **low energy** components (CPUs). You can further underclock the CPU or undervolt it so it consumes less energy, hence heats less. Usually when the technology makes a new step (transistor size reduction, manufacturing optimization), the efficiency increases.&#xD;&#xA; - You **increase the radiator surface** and **lower the fans speed**. For instance, your can take a big CPU cooler such as the Dark Rock pro 4, or use multiple watercooling radiators (which can be large: 360 , 480, and thick: 6cm for the EKWB XE).&#xD;&#xA; - In the case of water cooling, pick an **efficient** radiator and designed for *low speed* air flow. Hardwarelabs has a full spectrum of radiators optimized for different airflow speeds; pick one for low speed. Extremerigs does many reviews and can help you to pick those you're looking for.&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick a case that is designed to **absorb sound frequencies**, such as Fractal Design cases (the Define series).&#xD;&#xA; - You can use a **silent profile** in the BIOS in order to drive quietly all the fans.&#xD;&#xA; - Then you can put the PC in a distant place (eg. under the desk). Just remember that the **noise energy decrease in a law of d^-3** (where d is distance) in an open space, d^-2 if it's between 2 boards/walls, d^-1 if it's in a tube. Hence **space design**,  **placement** and **room** matters too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10390" RevisionGUID="4facf436-b94c-4dd5-8b92-9496948a5dd2" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:38:56.773" UserId="10496" Text="I have a desktop PC and a Thinkpad laptop which I would like to be able to connect to the same monitors, keyboard and mouse. The monitors will both be Philips 328P6VJEB (4K). I already have a docking station for the Thinkpad. What I would like to do is connect the desktop and docking station to the KVM, and when using the laptop, just plug the laptop into the docking station. Is there a KVM that I can use that will allow me to do this? Or is there another solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34939" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10390" RevisionGUID="4facf436-b94c-4dd5-8b92-9496948a5dd2" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:38:56.773" UserId="10496" Text="KVM and docking station solution for Desktop and Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34940" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10390" RevisionGUID="4facf436-b94c-4dd5-8b92-9496948a5dd2" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:38:56.773" UserId="10496" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34944" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10392" RevisionGUID="9b1fa8b2-4213-4c51-b50e-da5476df338c" CreationDate="2019-01-09T02:55:18.687" UserId="819" Text="There are not too many that fit the description. Here is one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;C18 is an high-performance MP3 player with 1.8 inches Screen which can show the relevant information. Built-in 8GB memory capacity ensures you to download your favorite songs freely. And, it supports many audio formats such as, MP3, WMA, AAC, APE, FLAC, WAV, etc and supports TF Card (Up to 128G). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 8GB&#xD;&#xA;* Charge Port: Micro USB&#xD;&#xA;* Music Playing Time: about 10 hours (depends on music volume)&#xD;&#xA;* Standby Time: about 30 hours&#xD;&#xA;* Built-in loud speaker enables you to enjoy music without headphones, convenient to use.&#xD;&#xA;* US Warehouse	&#xD;&#xA; * USPS	3-6 business days&#xD;&#xA; * UPS	2-5 business days&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [C18 MP3 Player HiFi Metal Music Player 8GB - Tomtop](https://www.tomtop.com/p-v3112s.html)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10393" RevisionGUID="e2a4e908-83f8-4102-9ffe-8aadba1289ee" CreationDate="2019-01-09T04:32:39.057" UserId="819" Text="You would need a motherboard bridge adapter such as the following IDE to SATA Adapter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![IDE to SATA Adapter][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [3.5&quot; HDD IDE/PATA to SATA Converter Add On Card Adapte for IDE 40-pin hard drive disk,DVD Burner to SATA 7pin Motherboard - Newegg.com](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIACJF54C2846&amp;Description=ide%20to%20sata%20bridge&amp;cm_re=ide_to_sata_bridge-_-9SIACJF54C2846-_-Product)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [File:IDE-SATA ADAPTER.jpg - Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:IDE-SATA_ADAPTER.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYGAB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34950" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10395" RevisionGUID="d62dc32f-2dd0-4ed7-85e7-08738fa12380" CreationDate="2019-01-09T10:34:28.027" UserId="10499" Text="I am looking to buy a 24inch QHD monitor for office work ( programming ) and general purpose use but not gaming . &#xD;&#xA;Would text be too small on a 24inch QHD Display ? Some people over internet has suggested 2560*1440p looks good on a 27 inch monitor compare to 24inch ." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34951" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10395" RevisionGUID="d62dc32f-2dd0-4ed7-85e7-08738fa12380" CreationDate="2019-01-09T10:34:28.027" UserId="10499" Text="Is 24'' QHD monitor good for programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34952" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10395" RevisionGUID="d62dc32f-2dd0-4ed7-85e7-08738fa12380" CreationDate="2019-01-09T10:34:28.027" UserId="10499" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34956" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10374" RevisionGUID="520247ab-a833-43b9-b6bf-99a6e8ef75ea" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:18:08.033" UserId="10476" Comment="edited body" Text="The more powerfull (TDP (thermal dissipation power) in watt) the computer, the more you need to cool it down. You can combine one or several of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick **low energy** components (CPUs). You can further underclock the CPU or undervolt it so it consumes less energy, hence heats less. Usually when the technology makes a new step (transistor size reduction, manufacturing optimization), the efficiency increases.&#xD;&#xA; - You **increase the radiator surface** and **lower the fans speed**. For instance, your can take a big CPU cooler such as the Dark Rock pro 4, or use multiple watercooling radiators (which can be large: 360 , 480, and thick: 6cm for the EKWB XE).&#xD;&#xA; - In the case of water cooling, pick an **efficient** radiator and designed for *low speed* air flow. Hardwarelabs has a full spectrum of radiators optimized for different airflow speeds; pick one for low speed. Extremerigs does many reviews and can help you to pick those you're looking for.&#xD;&#xA; - You can pick a case that is designed to **absorb sound frequencies**, such as Fractal Design cases (the Define series).&#xD;&#xA; - You can use a **silent profile** in the BIOS in order to drive quietly all the fans.&#xD;&#xA; - Then you can put the PC in a distant place (eg. under the desk). Just remember that the **noise energy decrease in a law of d^-3** (where d is distance) in an open space, d^-2 if it's between 2 boards/walls, d^-1 if it's in a tube. Hence **space design**,  **placement** and **room** matters too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10397" RevisionGUID="bf9ba26f-0865-421b-80f3-692a5809b0b3" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:20:54.317" UserId="5221" Text="I'm choosing between two laptops from Acer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. A515-41G-1480: (1) **CPU**: AMD A12-9720P 2.7Ghz (2) **RAM**: 8GB DDR4 (3) **GPU**: Radeon RX 540 2GB DDR5 (4) **HD**: 1TB;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. A515-51G-50W8: (1) **CPU**: Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5 - 3.1Ghz (2) **RAM**: 8GB DDR4 (3) **GPU**: NVIDIA GeForce 940MX 2GB DDR5 (4) **HD**: 1TB;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first one is 13,5% cheaper than the second one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, in terms of RAM they are both the same. The obvious advantage of the second is the disk size which is double the first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it seems the choice boils down to the distinction: AMD A12 + Radeon 540 against Intel I5 7200U + GeForce 940MX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seem that AMD A12 is quad-core while Intel I5 is dual core, so that it seems at first that AMD A12 is better, but I might be totally wrong, since I've seem some benchmarks and it appears the I5 wins all of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is actually the best one? I will use it for software development (mainly .NET, .NET Core and Javscript), scientific research (in this scenario probably I'll just run Wolfram Mathematica and LaTeX) and I would like to use it for gaming too, although I would be already happy running things in medium settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10397" RevisionGUID="bf9ba26f-0865-421b-80f3-692a5809b0b3" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:20:54.317" UserId="5221" Text="Choosing between two laptops, one AMD + Radeon the other Intel + GeForce" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10397" RevisionGUID="bf9ba26f-0865-421b-80f3-692a5809b0b3" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:20:54.317" UserId="5221" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34960" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10397" RevisionGUID="7e1d46d8-7713-4159-b006-de643190ae82" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:30:41.737" UserId="5221" Comment="edited title" Text="AMD A12-9720P + Radeon RX 540 vs Intel I5 7200U + NVIDIA 940MX - Which is the best?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34962" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="33bc7a90-5544-4827-8039-9bd9f49ea2c8" CreationDate="2019-01-09T19:08:49.130" UserId="1410" Comment="added 271 characters in body" Text="I bought [the cheapest that Amazon has][1] and found that the battery only lasted a few hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to charge once a week, might accept once per day, but no less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No fancy features necessary (maybe notification of incoming calls &amp; SMS), as I want it primarily for telling the time, but also to program my own apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is tight, can anyone recommend a cheap Android watch with decent battery life, which they have personally used for a while (maybe even programmed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone at all?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] almost three years later, has anything changed? Surely there must be soemthing for now? I would prefer sub-$50, but can be soemwhat flexible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need ot be able to add my own app to it, and it must have eitehr WiFi or BlueTooth, preferably BTLE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Bluetooth-select-Android-Samsung-models/dp/B00KARD0D2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34963" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10398" RevisionGUID="c5bd8285-7ad6-496c-84f1-c0266e3665e2" CreationDate="2019-01-09T20:33:16.540" UserId="10012" Text="I'm a student who is a part of the study abroad Japan program. (Assuming I get accepted for the program) I'll be traveling to Mishima Japan over the summer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do a lot of technical work in Java (Netbeans IDE) making small programs and occasionally write mathematics papers for classes(LaTeX) and prefer to use the Kubuntu (Linux) OS. I would consider Kubuntu compatible hardware components in your decision process.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that the study abroad forces me to be very portable in my choice of laptop, my current 17&quot; (Purchased about 7+(?) years ago)/heavy workstation laptop isn't my first pick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferred Specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Screen Size: 13-14&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAM: &gt;=6GB (Either comes with 6GB or can be upgraded to &gt;=6GB)&#xD;&#xA; 3. HDD: &gt;=250GB&#xD;&#xA; 4. CPU/Graphics: I don't plan on doing any video editing (*Maybe* some light editing every once in a while to make a meme or something if possible), or gaming that isn't flash based and easy to run. This being said, the system shouldn't be laggy either.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Battery life preferred due to traveling abroad, but I always have my chargers with me at all times, so this isn't a huge deal if it doesn't fit within the budget. Caveat: The plane ride to Japan from the US is 14 hours, and I'm not counting on the plane having an AC power supply, so having something that lasts about 1/2 way would be nice since I could use my phone at that point.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Bluetooth Compatibility is a must, and it is preferred (But not necessary) that it have a 5GHz antenna on the WLAN module.&#xD;&#xA; 7. A few USB ports would be nice, but that's about all I need. (I do almost all data transfer wirelessly and don't plan on having many peripherals or doing projector lectures anytime soon.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Having a side-number section on the keypad is preferred but not necessary.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Screen: I like watching HD videos&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2-in-ones are ok so long as they have a &quot;sturdy&quot; (Like a normal laptop, not a thin wafer) keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is $400-$500." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34964" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10398" RevisionGUID="c5bd8285-7ad6-496c-84f1-c0266e3665e2" CreationDate="2019-01-09T20:33:16.540" UserId="10012" Text="Portable Laptop Recommendations for Study Abroad Japan?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34965" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10398" RevisionGUID="c5bd8285-7ad6-496c-84f1-c0266e3665e2" CreationDate="2019-01-09T20:33:16.540" UserId="10012" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34972" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10401" RevisionGUID="525c31e0-2973-41b7-8ea4-74ebea617167" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:10:57.653" UserId="10506" Text="Dell Latitude, series 7490 is obtainable with 32GB RAM (I have one sitting on my table). &#xD;&#xA;The keyboard layout is sadly far from ThinkPads (answer to all three points regarding the keyboard is a *&quot;No&quot;*). Looks decently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have you looked into Thinkpad [X62](https://geoff.greer.fm/2017/07/16/thinkpad-x62/) and [T70](https://www.facebook.com/notes/lcdfans/special-machine-t70-cpu-i7-7700hqwith-ips/1882070528726717/?qid=6433062313884965485&amp;mf_story_key=3616766401621463574)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34973" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="01738614-d710-409f-b47f-8c186f0c4dac" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:42:15.147" UserId="10506" Text="I've been a frequent laptop user for years and whenever I needed a new desktop keyboard I managed to get a laptop-like (think ThinkPad x220 or *older*) keyboard that had:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* low-profile keys which come with low travel distance&#xD;&#xA;* non-chiclet keys - i.e keys bordering each other, without any borders formed by the top of the keyboard body&#xD;&#xA;* scissor switches, which provide reasonable key stability&#xD;&#xA;* wired connection, which is more secure than whatever wireless one I've ever seen&#xD;&#xA;* generally recognisable 104&amp;pm;1 keys layout (I'm not picky about the exact &lt;kbd&gt;Enter&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;\&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;Backspace&lt;/kbd&gt; placement, just prefer them to be close to each other).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, I'm unable to find anything like that - non-chiclet keyboards I have seen usually have too long travel distance. I'd be happy even with layouts where the arrow block is pushed into the main block and the 6-kay block above it rearranged somehow. I don't mind multimedia buttons (if they are there I either use them or switch them off in software).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34974" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="01738614-d710-409f-b47f-8c186f0c4dac" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:42:15.147" UserId="10506" Text="Slim, scissor-switch, non-chiclet old ThinkPad-like) wired (USB) keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34975" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="01738614-d710-409f-b47f-8c186f0c4dac" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:42:15.147" UserId="10506" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34976" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="1783c1a5-a692-4c48-a0b4-49f4d80b8dad" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:54:49.520" UserId="10506" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text="I've been a frequent laptop user for years and whenever I needed a new desktop keyboard I managed to get a laptop-like (think ThinkPad x220 or *older*) keyboard that had:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* low-profile keys which come with low travel distance&#xD;&#xA;* non-chiclet keys - i.e keys bordering each other, without any borders formed by the top of the keyboard body&#xD;&#xA;* scissor switches, which provide reasonable key stability&#xD;&#xA;* wired connection, which is more secure than whatever wireless one I've ever seen&#xD;&#xA;* generally recognisable 104&amp;pm;1 keys layout (I'm not picky about the exact &lt;kbd&gt;Enter&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;\&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;Backspace&lt;/kbd&gt; placement, just prefer them to be close to each other).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, I'm unable to find anything like that - non-chiclet keyboards I have seen usually have too long travel distance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'd be happy even with layouts where the arrow block is pushed into the main block and the 6-kay block above it rearranged somehow.&#xD;&#xA;* I don't mind multimedia buttons (if they are there I either use them or switch them off in software).&#xD;&#xA;* I would prefer &quot;classical&quot; key labels&#xD;&#xA; * symbols slightly in the corner&#xD;&#xA; * a decent (non-gaming/futuristic) font&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10403" RevisionGUID="20a3a3ea-81c5-46b5-ab89-05187b0b8b06" CreationDate="2019-01-10T04:00:54.660" UserId="10496" Text="I am keen to purchase a monitor stand that will allow me to have, in horizontal alignment, three 32&quot; monitors in landscape orientation. Is this possible? Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10403" RevisionGUID="20a3a3ea-81c5-46b5-ab89-05187b0b8b06" CreationDate="2019-01-10T04:00:54.660" UserId="10496" Text="Side by side monitor stand for three 32&quot; monitors in landscape" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10403" RevisionGUID="20a3a3ea-81c5-46b5-ab89-05187b0b8b06" CreationDate="2019-01-10T04:00:54.660" UserId="10496" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34981" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10404" RevisionGUID="a435a91f-53c6-462f-bd31-5a115206bb53" CreationDate="2019-01-10T06:09:37.063" UserId="6047" Text="I managed to fit most of your requirements with laptops ready to ship today in the US. Both laptops have **Bluetooth 4.1, 802.11ac LAN cards**, but are **15.6&quot;** laptops. Laptops with larger/smaller screens compromised price and/or specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recall Netbeans sometimes being RAM usage heavy. Between the IDE, the OS, and any Browsers with documentation open, I think **8 GB** would be a safer margin to prevent having to page to memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also went around your HDD requirements and opted to recommend you laptops with **256 GB SSDs**. This is because at this low end price range laptop manufacturers like to cut corners by giving you dirt cheap drives that will become irritating bottlenecks when trying to use your laptop (e.g. waiting 45 seconds for your browser to launch while your cpu only uses less than a quarter of it's processing power). The processors in these laptops are designed with lower TDP and have no discrete graphics cards, therby increasing battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo Laptop IdeaPad 330 $424.99 + $2.99 Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Lenovo][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The AMD Ryzen in this laptop is [effectively slower than the i7-6700HQ you can get in mid-higher end laptops during 2015/2016 by 10%][3] according to avg benchmarks. In comparison to the Dell Inspiron (option 2) [it is effectively slower by 17%][4] according to avg benchmarks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ryzen 5 2500U (2.00 GHz)&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x USB 3.0 | 1 x 3.0 Type C&#xD;&#xA; - Up to 4.5 Hour(s) Battery Life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[DELL Inspiron 15-5579 $499.99][5]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Dell Inspiron][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop comes equipped with touchscreen if that's your thing. It also has a longer battery life and faster processor. The Inspiron has slightly worse USB options than the Lenovo. I leave it up to you to decide whether those specifications are worth the +71$ price tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7 8550U&#xD;&#xA; - [2 x USB 3.0 | 1 x USB 2.0][7]&#xD;&#xA; - [Up to 6.25 Hour(s) Battery Life][8]&#xD;&#xA; - Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Kubuntu Compatibility ##&#xD;&#xA;A cursory glance at the Kubuntu OS suggests that it is just one of the many flavors or distros of Ubuntu. I believe the Linux kernel supports AMD64 (X86-64) architecture. You should be able to install Kubuntu over the existing Operating System with a boot key (usb). Pretty much all commercially available hardware is supported by Ubuntu, I'd be surprised if your average consumer laptop would cause Kubuntu to reject the installation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834850877R&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ekmv3.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2500U/m34954vsm378273&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8550U-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2500U/m320742vsm378273&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834944413&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvQJB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-15-5579-i5-8250U-SSD-IPS-Touch-Convertible-Review.308480.0.html#toc-connectivity&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-15-5579-i5-8250U-SSD-IPS-Touch-Convertible-Review.308480.0.html#toc-power-management" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34996" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10395" RevisionGUID="5e7c32b3-b892-43a0-b524-7d1efd73a4df" CreationDate="2019-01-10T15:43:59.563" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35011" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10339" RevisionGUID="2b8e32e4-9255-4d24-875a-2d8fdb398b7c" CreationDate="2019-01-10T18:44:53.377" UserId="60" Comment="Added information from the comments and cleaned up the post." Text="I've a Thinkpad X1 3rd generation tablet, which has thunderbolt 3 slots. I am thinking about getting an external GPU enclosure since the thunderbolt 3 protocol itself supports interfacing with PCIe. What I'm looking for is a basic thunderbolt 3 to PCIe adapter. Basically just the cable with the necessary controller board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a GTX 1060 and a power supply, which is why I thought maybe I could get away cheaper if I just bought an adapter without all the extra stuff. I also don't have a set budget, but 300$ or more is a lot for just the enclosure in my opinion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10409" RevisionGUID="366ad36a-038d-4092-9f0d-fbf8acccac11" CreationDate="2019-01-10T19:09:23.553" UserId="4896" Text="The majority of PC noise is cooling related...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The less heat you generate, the less noise generated&#xD;&#xA; 2. Conversely, you can cool it less, making it run hotter, albeit if&#xD;&#xA;    you go too far, you can reduce the lifespan of some components&#xD;&#xA; 3. Or you can cool better; expel heat more efficiently, so less effort&#xD;&#xA;    required and less noise produced&#xD;&#xA; 4. Or you can directly try to tackle/block the noise&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to Soleil's good suggestions...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If your BIOS does not have a silent/quite profiles or PWM fans, you&#xD;&#xA;   can use inline resistors between mobo and fan cable to reduce voltage&#xD;&#xA;   to 7v, which in turn will reduce speed and thus noise.  (Approach #2)&#xD;&#xA; - You can add insulating materials to the case, usually foam or fibre pads that absorb/dissipate some noise. (#4)&#xD;&#xA; - You can buy a larger case, or de-clutter the inside of the case (e.g. careful, neat cable routing) to reduce airflow obstructions. (#3)&#xD;&#xA; - On similar lines, a common airflow approach is a low, front-facing&#xD;&#xA;   intake fan to an upper rear exhaust fan. Whatever your approach, try&#xD;&#xA;   to encourage a single airflow route from a cool intake fan, across&#xD;&#xA;   all key components, to that upper exhaust fan. (#3)&#xD;&#xA; - Consider having more/larger fans but have them running slower (i.e.&#xD;&#xA;   via resistors, above) - more airflow overall (#3)&#xD;&#xA; - Get a case with the PSU in a sealed compartment at the bottom of the&#xD;&#xA;   case. Old-school cases used the PSU at the top as an exhaust fan of&#xD;&#xA;   sort, so hot case air would enter the PSU, where it is heated&#xD;&#xA;   further, and heavily loads the smaller, lower flow PSU fan - avoid&#xD;&#xA;   this.&#xD;&#xA; - Use a premium, aftermarket thermal paste, rather that the standard&#xD;&#xA;   stuff that comes with your cooler, and make sure you apply it&#xD;&#xA;   correctly (#3)&#xD;&#xA; - For mechanical noise, an easy win is to buy silicon grommets and/or&#xD;&#xA;   plastic screws to reduce the noise from HDD vibration passing through&#xD;&#xA;   to the case. (#4)&#xD;&#xA; - Also you can buy rubber/silicon gaskets to place between fans and the&#xD;&#xA;   case to acheive the same ends. (#4)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35022" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="4c5d68c7-532c-42f8-b1ae-3cb083ec9345" CreationDate="2019-01-11T09:22:35.550" UserId="1410" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="I am trying to design an employee tracking system, to track employees from room to room, for saftey purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6920/tracking-employee-location) led me to [this solution](http://www.beacon-line.com/), which provides a system to track.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if requires each tracked object/person to carry a WiFI device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The obvious solution would seem to be a cheap Android 'phone, but that might not always be practical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other cheap Wifi device, which will obviously have to be battery powered, with enough battery life to last a full working shift, let's say 12 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, bear in mind that the device and battery must be worn in an industrail environment, so should be robust, and also easy to charge overnight, ready for the next shift.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(or, is there an alternative system, uing BTLE, RFID, whatever?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I am thinking of a cheap Android watch, so that I can program it. Of course, there will be a price/battery life trade-off, but programmability is a great advantage for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Further update] I reckon that BT LE will have a much longer battery life than any WiFi device." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="53d70695-de31-4208-89a2-f16967de3159" CreationDate="2019-01-11T10:38:56.147" UserId="1410" Comment="added 1249 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I am trying to design an employee tracking system, to track employees from room to room, for saftey purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somewhat obviously, if requires each tracked person to carry a device which uniquely identifies them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which will obviously have to be battery powered, with enough battery life to last a full working shift, let's say 12 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is becoming apparent that I am looking at Bluetooth Low Energy – unless someone can make a compelling argument for WiFi, ZigBee., etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, bear in mind that the device and battery must be worn in an industrial environment, so should be robust, and also easy to charge when needed – at worst overnight, ready for the next shift.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device need only identify itself, as it passes various access points (presumably by pairing with them, or offering to do so?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at the [List of Bluetooth profiles]( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles) , I am guessing at  the [Proximity Profile (PXPP)]( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Proximity_Profile_(PXP)) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, what I do not want – close as it is - is a cheap sports/fitness band. What I would like is something very like that :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Rubber wrist band – nice to have, but not mandatory&#xD;&#xA;-	Rugged &amp; robust – is quite important&#xD;&#xA;-	Button/cell battery – for small form fit&#xD;&#xA;-	***NO*** built in apps, e.g. health / fitness&#xD;&#xA;-	It would be nice if I were able to load my own software. For instance, to vibrate the band remotely, or display messages. What I don’t want is lots of built-in fitness tracker  stuff, which is not associated with my system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Flora Wearable Bluefruit LE Module]( https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/flora-wearable-bluefruit-le-module) looks good, but &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	 it’s not totally off the shelf  : “Sew 4 traces (or solder 4 wires)”&#xD;&#xA;-	There is no indication of battery life (although I don’t expect any problems with BTLE)&#xD;&#xA;-	I would prefer something worn on the wrist, but could live with this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side it seems easy to program “After you connect to the Bluefruit, you can send commands wirelessly in under 10 minutes”. Also, “Built in over-the-air bootloading capability so we can keep you updated with the hottest new firmware. Use any Android or iOS device to get updates and install them” seems a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other cheap (preferably sub $30) wrist wearable which is programmable, preferably with a snap-in coin/cell battery?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35024" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="53d70695-de31-4208-89a2-f16967de3159" CreationDate="2019-01-11T10:38:56.147" UserId="1410" Comment="added 1249 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Off the shelf cheap wearable BlueTooth Low Energy device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35025" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="53d70695-de31-4208-89a2-f16967de3159" CreationDate="2019-01-11T10:38:56.147" UserId="1410" Comment="added 1249 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;passive-tracker&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10412" RevisionGUID="49e8a81f-d15c-4f0d-8d61-669c48118ab6" CreationDate="2019-01-11T14:49:56.850" UserId="10518" Text="I have been tasked on finding a **prebuilt laptop** for a motorbike racing enthusiast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You see, currently he takes a professional quality photos on his camera and then stores them to a external hard drive from the camera. He would like the ability to store the pictures on this laptop, so **capacity** is a big deal. He wants to be able to view the pictures he has taken. He likes the sound of being able to edit the images using Adobe Photoshop (which he has already purchased) though he says this is **not necessary.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally his price range has a **max range of £300** (Their may be some leeway if the increased expense is worth the additional specs) The reason why the price range is so low is that if he drops the laptop in mud, or leaves his laptop behind accidently, it wont be a massive loss. &#xD;&#xA;He lives in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076T7V685/ref=asc_df_B076T7V6851546945200000/?ascsubtag=s15472174731740yzza52421&amp;tag=52421_iceleads-21&amp;creative=22374&amp;creativeASIN=B076T7V685&amp;linkCode=df0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the customer rating score was a 1 star.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35028" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10412" RevisionGUID="49e8a81f-d15c-4f0d-8d61-669c48118ab6" CreationDate="2019-01-11T14:49:56.850" UserId="10518" Text="Need a Laptop Recommendation For Motorbike racing enthusiast" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35029" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10412" RevisionGUID="49e8a81f-d15c-4f0d-8d61-669c48118ab6" CreationDate="2019-01-11T14:49:56.850" UserId="10518" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35056" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="13678211-7fd0-4316-b2e2-740d5c334a39" CreationDate="2019-01-12T14:24:21.377" UserId="10506" Comment="edited title" Text="Slim, scissor-switch, non-chiclet (old ThinkPad-like) wired (USB) keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10402" RevisionGUID="f03453ed-b96f-4fc8-98f0-fb1272151078" CreationDate="2019-01-12T14:30:32.440" UserId="10506" Comment="edited title" Text="I've been a frequent laptop user for years and whenever I needed a new desktop keyboard I managed to get a laptop-like (think ThinkPad x220 or *older*) keyboard that had:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* low-profile keys which come with low travel distance&#xD;&#xA;* non-chiclet keys - i.e keys bordering each other, without any borders formed by the top of the keyboard body&#xD;&#xA;* scissor switches, which provide reasonable key stability&#xD;&#xA;* wired connection, which is more secure than whatever wireless one I've ever seen&#xD;&#xA;* generally recognisable 104&amp;pm;1 keys layout (I'm not picky about the exact &lt;kbd&gt;Enter&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;\&lt;/kbd&gt; / &lt;kbd&gt;Backspace&lt;/kbd&gt; placement, just prefer them to be close to each other).&#xD;&#xA;* I would prefer &quot;classical&quot; key labels, i.e.:&#xD;&#xA; * symbols slightly in the corner&#xD;&#xA; * a decent (non-gaming/futuristic) font&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, I'm unable to find anything like that - non-chiclet keyboards I have seen usually have too long travel distance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Acceptable disadvantages:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Layouts where the arrow block is pushed into the main block and the 6-kay block above it rearranged somehow.&#xD;&#xA;* Multimedia buttons (if they are there I either use them or switch them off on software level).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="baec4614-ba49-4c4c-a933-92b3a0bb7e7d" CreationDate="2019-01-13T10:16:57.130" UserId="10518" Text="I have been tasked on finding a **prebuilt laptop** for a motorbike racing enthusiast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You see, currently he takes a professional quality photos on his camera and then stores them to a external hard drive from the camera. He would like the ability to store the pictures on this laptop, so **capacity** is a big deal. He wants to be able to view the pictures he has taken. He likes the sound of being able to edit the images using Adobe Photoshop (which he has already purchased) though he says this is **not necessary.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally his price range has a **max range of £600** (Their may be some leeway if the increased expense is worth the additional specs) The reason why the price range is so low is that if he drops the laptop in mud, or leaves his laptop behind accidently, it wont be a massive loss. &#xD;&#xA;He lives in the UK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="baec4614-ba49-4c4c-a933-92b3a0bb7e7d" CreationDate="2019-01-13T10:16:57.130" UserId="10518" Text="Need Laptop recommendation for outdoors photography" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="baec4614-ba49-4c4c-a933-92b3a0bb7e7d" CreationDate="2019-01-13T10:16:57.130" UserId="10518" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35079" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="5b9dfc9a-454f-477c-b6b1-3001f6831d3d" CreationDate="2019-01-13T17:23:23.177" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[10412],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35080" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="10412" RevisionGUID="34d8c817-45cf-4bbf-af1e-980d9bee800f" CreationDate="2019-01-13T17:24:05.973" UserId="8" Comment="from https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10422/need-laptop-recommendation-for-outdoors-photography" />
  <row Id="35081" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="34d8c817-45cf-4bbf-af1e-980d9bee800f" CreationDate="2019-01-13T17:24:05.973" UserId="8" Comment="to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10412/need-a-laptop-recommendation-for-motorbike-racing-enthusiast" />
  <row Id="35082" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="10422" RevisionGUID="e4e6e531-8b20-4123-b432-4d445c50b41e" CreationDate="2019-01-13T17:24:05.973" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10425" RevisionGUID="bb0fe9ed-f079-44fd-bb84-313eb46aeff8" CreationDate="2019-01-13T20:55:51.467" UserId="5440" Text="It certainly is possible. It is not gonna be very cheap though...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two such products are:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [**Mount-It! Triple Monitor Mount with USB Port, Height Adjustable 3 Monitor Arm Desk Stand for 24 27 30 32 Inch LED LCD Displays (MI-2753)**][1]&#xD;&#xA; 2. [**Amer AMR3S32 - Stand - for 3 LCD Displays**][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also make sure the weight specs are enough for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Monitor-Adjustable-Displays-MI-2753/dp/B06X9D7JWP/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=dbtrer6urvt6u5rey5s-20&amp;linkId=99ecfffda1b9345a7c2e59b69f770621&amp;language=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Amer-AMR3S32-Stand-LCD-Displays/dp/B00ZDX7PRU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=dbtrer6urvt6u5rey5s-20&amp;linkId=413dc262bb040df6c56240ed98981c6e&amp;language=en_US" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35099" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10429" RevisionGUID="4a8daf80-0887-4330-a8d8-4a87d49bc93e" CreationDate="2019-01-14T13:25:55.470" UserId="4786" Text="Let me clear up as best I can...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am contemplating pulling the trigger on a refurbished Lenovo M92P OEM Desktop Tower that I found for cheap online, the tower looks like this --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8Fs4.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, the system that I have my eye on is outfitted with an i7 3770 NON-K,8GB of DDR3 RAM and a 500GB HDD from Western Digital.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to buy  this system, I would want to turn this computer into a cheap gaming rig, and therefore would upgrade the internals to make it game ready.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The upgrades I would make would be a GTX 1080 Super JetStream from Palit (2x4pin connectors), one more stick of 8GB DDR3 for dual channel memory support and a cheap 128GB SSD as boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the issue that I am facing is that the PSU that comes with the system is not up to the task, and I know it will fail on me should I go ahead with the upgrades mentioned earlier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is simple, which PSU is best for an OEM Machine like this, that uses proprietary connectors and other devices that are not standard?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A side note, my other issue with this is the main power connector on the motherboard, as it is not a standard 24 pin connector." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35100" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10429" RevisionGUID="4a8daf80-0887-4330-a8d8-4a87d49bc93e" CreationDate="2019-01-14T13:25:55.470" UserId="4786" Text="Best PSU Option for a Lenovo M92P OEM Full Desktop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35101" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10429" RevisionGUID="4a8daf80-0887-4330-a8d8-4a87d49bc93e" CreationDate="2019-01-14T13:25:55.470" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35105" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10431" RevisionGUID="146cc707-7485-4303-8c04-57e6eaba245d" CreationDate="2019-01-14T14:46:28.293" UserId="10541" Text="&gt; Can I make use of that extra keys on Japanese keyboards, e.g. rebind with Autohotkey to other keys (mouse click)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I tried it myself and it worked perfectly. Below is the actual script I used. SC07B is the &quot;無変換 (muhenkan) &quot; key on the left and SC079 is the &quot;変換 (henkan) &quot; key on the right. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case the your future Japanese key code is different from mine and you don't know how to figure it out, check how to: https://superuser.com/questions/1150394/autohotkey-remap-a-solid-key#1150396&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    --------Script begins----------&#xD;&#xA;    #NoEnv  ; Recommended for performance and compatibility with future AutoHotkey releases.&#xD;&#xA;    ; #Warn  ; Enable warnings to assist with detecting common errors.&#xD;&#xA;    SendMode Input  ; Recommended for new scripts due to its superior speed and reliability.&#xD;&#xA;    SetWorkingDir %A_ScriptDir%  ; Ensures a consistent starting directory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ;;Clicks&#xD;&#xA;    SC07B::Send {Click}&#xD;&#xA;    SC079::Send {Click, right}&#xD;&#xA;    --------Script ends----------&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10431" RevisionGUID="7cefc0e7-af6e-4811-bff2-9e47d4ac1ba3" CreationDate="2019-01-14T14:54:42.950" UserId="10541" Comment="deleted 72 characters in body" Text="&gt; Can I make use of that extra keys on Japanese keyboards, e.g. rebind with Autohotkey to other keys (mouse click)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I tried it myself and it worked perfectly. Below is the actual script I used. SC07B is the &quot;無変換 (muhenkan) &quot; key on the left and SC079 is the &quot;変換 (henkan) &quot; key on the right. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case the your future Japanese key code is different from mine and you don't know how to figure it out, check how to: https://superuser.com/questions/1150394/autohotkey-remap-a-solid-key#1150396&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    #NoEnv  ; Recommended for performance and compatibility with future AutoHotkey releases.&#xD;&#xA;    ; #Warn  ; Enable warnings to assist with detecting common errors.&#xD;&#xA;    SendMode Input  ; Recommended for new scripts due to its superior speed and reliability.&#xD;&#xA;    SetWorkingDir %A_ScriptDir%  ; Ensures a consistent starting directory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    ;;Clicks&#xD;&#xA;    SC07B::Send {Click}&#xD;&#xA;    SC079::Send {Click, right}&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI: Did you notice the symbols are different, like &quot; on 2 or ) on 9? It may be confusing at first but you'll get used to it within weeks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="44b19c29-19ee-403f-9fa5-2ae17b44a186" CreationDate="2019-01-14T15:27:29.007" UserId="10307" Text="About ten years back there was a range of products all called [Yoggie](https://www.tomsguide.com/us/ces-usb-security,news-256.html). Some of them were bigger, some of them looked like bulky USB sticks (i.e. too wide to fit other USB plugs next to them), called Yoggie Pico.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On them was - as far as I know - a XScale-based Linux system which was running netfilter (or perhaps its predecessor, I don't remember). It used a method similar to [PoisonTap](https://samy.pl/poisontap/) to pose as USB-Ethernet device to the host system and (ab)use the fact that DHCP was enabled to push default routes to itself and thereby being a firewall on a system logically separate from the host.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware of a USB device - preferably even tinier than the original Yoggies - that could perform a similar task at contemporary higher throughput rates (both USB and Ethernet)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35109" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="44b19c29-19ee-403f-9fa5-2ae17b44a186" CreationDate="2019-01-14T15:27:29.007" UserId="10307" Text="Looking for a contemporary device similar to what the Yoggie used to be" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35110" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="44b19c29-19ee-403f-9fa5-2ae17b44a186" CreationDate="2019-01-14T15:27:29.007" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35112" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10433" RevisionGUID="52b4bb6d-bacc-40d5-9eff-6c888a02aeef" CreationDate="2019-01-14T16:01:31.353" UserId="6476" Text="You can buy any quality 600 watt powersupply and up for your system. Usually anything above $40 with 80 Gold efficiency and up is considered good, make sure to look up the reviews for the power supply. You shouldn't need to spend more than $100. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In regards to the non standard connection the only one I see is the [14 pin power connector on your motherboard][1]. This can be solved by buying a 20/24 pin adapter to 14 pin adapter on amazon for lenovo/IBM machines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://content.etilize.com/User-Manual/1022501828.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10433" RevisionGUID="1b3181ae-4d47-44e6-b429-2c140a7413fb" CreationDate="2019-01-14T16:05:46.880" UserId="6476" Comment="Fixed formatting for powersupply list." Text="You can buy any quality 600 watt powersupply and up for your system. Usually anything above $40 with 80 Gold efficiency and up is considered good, make sure to look up the reviews for the power supply. You shouldn't need to spend more than $100. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some options - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA SuperNova 650 G3 (~$70)&#xD;&#xA; - EVGA SuperNova 650 G1+ (~$70) &#xD;&#xA; - Corsair TX-M TX650M (~$70) &#xD;&#xA; - Seasonic Focus SSR-750FM (~$75)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In regards to the non standard connection the only one I see is the [14 pin power connector on your motherboard][1]. This can be solved by buying a 20/24 pin adapter to 14 pin adapter on amazon for lenovo/IBM machines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://content.etilize.com/User-Manual/1022501828.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35118" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="9dec4947-198b-459c-ab88-23cee7cfbe7f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T00:41:17.960" UserId="10545" Text="I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, it is virtually impossible to get a clear picture of the complete selection that is out there. Each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My question is -- what is the concise overview of all the announced RTX laptops to be released with their specs clearly layed out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be grateful if someone could post this information as a summary, or refer to a source online which is to the point. Thanks for any suggestion!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35119" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="9dec4947-198b-459c-ab88-23cee7cfbe7f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T00:41:17.960" UserId="10545" Text="Comprehensive specs of all laptops with RTX graphics to be released on 29th Jan 2019?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35120" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="9dec4947-198b-459c-ab88-23cee7cfbe7f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T00:41:17.960" UserId="10545" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35121" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="c5794726-474e-4ffe-8676-4a84311f57bd" CreationDate="2019-01-15T01:09:49.373" UserId="57" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10436" RevisionGUID="4ba8aff2-375f-43a6-a109-9f8ca09ae784" CreationDate="2019-01-15T01:39:28.473" UserId="10532" Text="I'm a web-designer/developer/coder.  &#xD;&#xA;Most of my time is spent staring at lines of code, the resultant web pages, and vector graphic layouts. I do occasional bitmap image editing, read technical books as PDFs, and typical office stuff. My web pages can be quite graphically 'busy' with panels that flip and transparency fade effects. Reading low contrast text gives me a headache. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Over many years I've only had to buy three screens, so I'm quite a novice at this. But, given that I spend many hours looking at my screen every day, I need to get it right.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm replacing a failed Iiyama E2207WS  &#xD;&#xA;(22&quot;, 16:10, 1680x1050)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it hadn't failed I'd still be happy. But as it has I'd like to replace it with something better.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a monitor with the following characteristics:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16:10 ratio (width:height)  &#xD;&#xA; - &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; 24&quot; diagonal at 1920 x 1200 pixels  &#xD;&#xA; - (or 22&quot; diagonal at 1680 x 1050 pixels)  &#xD;&#xA; - I'm not a gamer -- although I do enjoy [TriggerRally](http://trigger-rally.sourceforge.net/) :) -- so I don't need great speed, but the old e2207ws did suffer from text *streaking* / *stretching* (?) during scroll  &#xD;&#xA; - I don't need it very bright but  &#xD;&#xA;   - good contrast is important  &#xD;&#xA;   - as is reasonably good colour reproduction  &#xD;&#xA;   - (the e2207ws was OK in both respects)  &#xD;&#xA;   - plenty of easy colour/colour-temp adjustment might be useful too (see below **)  &#xD;&#xA; - I need the screen low and angled to my line of sight  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I've found a good stand to get the monitor down low and angled, but I'm open to anything better:  &#xD;&#xA;[Wearson WS-03A Adjustable LCD Monitor Stand](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wearson-WS-03A-Adjustable-Monitor-100x100mm/dp/B00XUF2GBI/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was strongly considering  &#xD;&#xA;iiyama ProLite XUB2495WSU-B1  &#xD;&#xA;especially given the anti-flicker and low blue light features,  &#xD;&#xA;but [this Hexus review](https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/monitors/125210-iiyama-prolite-xub2495wsu-b1/?page=4) suggested that the black levels and contrast are poor.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm now leaning towards the Dell UltraSharp U2415  &#xD;&#xA;Good review [here](http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2415.htm), and top choice [here](https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-24-inch-monitor/)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;** ...and leaning away again having read [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/customer-reviews/R3QY56D7YK8ZKJ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00OA2I362) Amazon review: &quot;*While the overall colour was good, the whites were too blue on mine. Adjusting the Colour Temp in the menu is a waste of time as it auto selects certain temps. 5700k is far too red and 6500 too blue, and nothing in between.*&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;And, like the reviewer, I also hate fiddly touch (in)sensitive buttons and ludicrously bright LED 'on' lights. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm lost.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice much appreciated.  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35123" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10436" RevisionGUID="4ba8aff2-375f-43a6-a109-9f8ca09ae784" CreationDate="2019-01-15T01:39:28.473" UserId="10532" Text="Good desktop screen for a web designer / developer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35124" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10436" RevisionGUID="4ba8aff2-375f-43a6-a109-9f8ca09ae784" CreationDate="2019-01-15T01:39:28.473" UserId="10532" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35125" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="0224cb8d-10a7-4ba9-bd91-e31df4d265dd" CreationDate="2019-01-15T03:35:46.197" UserId="10545" Comment="added 601 characters in body" Text="I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, it is virtually impossible to get a clear picture of the complete selection that is out there. Each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My question is -- what is the concise overview of all the announced RTX laptops to be released with their specs clearly layed out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be grateful if someone could post this information as a summary, or refer to a source online which is to the point. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the suggestion in a comment, let me specify which specs I am looking for in particular; I am interested in all RTX laptops to be released on 29th Jan that preferably have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; display (preferably, but might consider a 17&quot; notable mention)&#xD;&#xA;- i7 cpu (prefer stronger single process performance over parallel processing)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- 256+GB SSD &amp; 1+TB HDD (might adjust after the fact)&#xD;&#xA;- 144Hz screen (preferably, not a deal breaker)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA RTX 2070 (or 2080, prefer to avoid Max-Q and Optimus if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be interested in brands, model designs and pricing of any laptop that approximately fits the above criteria. Thanks for any suggestion!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35126" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="9283691c-0603-40cc-9f85-19d0fdb3875b" CreationDate="2019-01-15T03:41:45.527" UserId="10545" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, it is virtually impossible to get a clear picture of the complete selection that is out there. Each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My question is -- what is the concise overview of all the announced RTX laptops to be released with their specs clearly layed out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be grateful if someone could post this information as a summary, or refer to a source online which is to the point. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the suggestion in a comment, let me specify which specs I am looking for in particular; I am interested in all RTX laptops to be released on 29th Jan that preferably have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; display (preferably, but might consider a 17&quot; notable mention)&#xD;&#xA;- i7 cpu (prefer stronger single process performance over parallel processing)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- 256+GB SSD &amp; 1+TB HDD (might adjust after the fact)&#xD;&#xA;- 144Hz screen (preferably, not a deal breaker)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA RTX 2070 (or 2080, prefer to avoid Max-Q and Optimus if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm interested in brands, model designs and pricing of any laptop that approximately fits the above criteria. Thanks for any suggestion!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="dca9c051-63ea-4644-99e2-c982ba079650" CreationDate="2019-01-15T03:48:29.660" UserId="10545" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, it is virtually impossible to get a clear picture of the complete selection that is out there. Each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My question is -- what is the concise overview of all the announced RTX laptops to be released with their specs clearly layed out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be grateful if someone could post this information as a summary, or refer to a source online which is to the point. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the suggestion in a comment, let me specify which specs I am looking for in particular; I am interested in all RTX laptops to be released on 29th Jan that preferably have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; display (preferably, but might consider a 17&quot; notable mention)&#xD;&#xA;- i7 cpu (prefer stronger single process performance over parallel processing)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- 256+GB SSD &amp; 1+TB HDD (might adjust after the fact)&#xD;&#xA;- 144Hz screen (preferably, not a deal breaker)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA RTX 2070 (or 2080, prefer to avoid Max-Q and Optimus if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm interested in brands, model designs and pricing of any laptop that approximately fits the above criteria. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would describe my budget allocation towards this laptop as a Gaussian that is centered at $2000, with 3*sigma=$1000 (in USD to be shipped to North-East US).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35130" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="0421d34b-b165-4ea1-bc1e-bc352992dcdb" CreationDate="2019-01-15T10:59:37.850" UserId="10545" Comment="edited title" Text="Recommendation for Laptop with RTX Graphics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10439" RevisionGUID="17c246fe-7840-4e96-b2e5-6a27d327f01a" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:21:54.450" UserId="10548" Text="I have a 2010 model &lt;a href=&quot;http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?%3F%7Elt=popup&amp;c=us&amp;cs=22&amp;l=en&amp;s=dfh&amp;sku=320-7641&amp;validate=false&amp;%7Elt=popup&amp;%7Etab=specstab&quot;&gt;Dell SP2309W&lt;/a&gt; 23&quot; monitor. I want to know what wire do I need to buy inorder to connect it to my Ubuntu 14.04 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flipkart.com/dell-latitude-core-i3-4th-gen-4-gb-500-gb-hdd-linux-v3540-laptop/p/itmdxgv5p6xc7z2s?pid=COMDXGV5FGBZV4QY&amp;lid=LSTCOMDXGV5FGBZV4QYLPGFKR&quot;&gt;Dell Latitude 3560&lt;/a&gt; laptop. (Online it says 3540 but on my command line is like anjanesh@anjanesh-Latitude-3560:)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35140" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10439" RevisionGUID="17c246fe-7840-4e96-b2e5-6a27d327f01a" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:21:54.450" UserId="10548" Text="Wire to connect Dell laptop to Dell 23&quot; monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35141" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10439" RevisionGUID="17c246fe-7840-4e96-b2e5-6a27d327f01a" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:21:54.450" UserId="10548" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="0eefab15-6238-4dc4-a614-1a6428c0d78a" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:30:14.667" UserId="10307" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="About ten years back there was a range of products all called [Yoggie](https://www.tomsguide.com/us/ces-usb-security,news-256.html). Some of them were bigger, some of them looked like bulky USB sticks (i.e. too wide to fit other USB plugs next to them), called Yoggie Pico.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On them was - as far as I know - a XScale-based Linux system which was running netfilter (or perhaps its predecessor, I don't remember). It used a method similar to [PoisonTap](https://samy.pl/poisontap/) to pose as USB-Ethernet device to the host system and (ab)use the fact that DHCP was enabled to push default routes to itself and thereby being a firewall on a system logically separate from the host.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware of a USB device - preferably even tinier than the original Yoggies - that could perform a similar task at contemporary higher throughput rates (both USB and Ethernet)? Price should preferably be below 200 USD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35143" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10440" RevisionGUID="d4a8209f-fae9-44bb-9e7f-1ca3c42febef" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:53:00.943" UserId="10549" Text="Great answer by tanius.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also add that DECT phones are better suited to voice communications as DECT is a stream / connection based rather than packet based protocols built on top of WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This allows for tighter control of the quality of service, codecs, power consumption etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mentioned FritzBox offers many access points  / routers with DECT stack built in. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35144" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10441" RevisionGUID="5c84a519-7053-4300-be7f-aca443eaa070" CreationDate="2019-01-15T14:14:46.790" UserId="10420" Text="Which are the laptop computers with the largest detachable screen sizes? I am looking for one such that I can take a 17&quot; Full HD screen in my hands and use it as a tablet and use it to inspect the code as I walk, resting it occasionally on the desk to code with a keyboard.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35145" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10441" RevisionGUID="5c84a519-7053-4300-be7f-aca443eaa070" CreationDate="2019-01-15T14:14:46.790" UserId="10420" Text="Largest detachable screen size" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35146" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10441" RevisionGUID="5c84a519-7053-4300-be7f-aca443eaa070" CreationDate="2019-01-15T14:14:46.790" UserId="10420" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35147" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10439" RevisionGUID="6bfd1583-a8c9-469d-ba0b-9374a37ff1eb" CreationDate="2019-01-15T15:21:53.963" UserId="10548" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="I have a 2010 model &lt;a href=&quot;http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?%3F%7Elt=popup&amp;c=us&amp;cs=22&amp;l=en&amp;s=dfh&amp;sku=320-7641&amp;validate=false&amp;%7Elt=popup&amp;%7Etab=specstab&quot;&gt;Dell SP2309W&lt;/a&gt; 23&quot; monitor. I want to know what wire do I need to buy inorder to connect it to my Ubuntu 14.04 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flipkart.com/dell-latitude-core-i3-4th-gen-4-gb-500-gb-hdd-linux-v3540-laptop/p/itmdxgv5p6xc7z2s?pid=COMDXGV5FGBZV4QY&amp;lid=LSTCOMDXGV5FGBZV4QYLPGFKR&quot;&gt;Dell Latitude 3560&lt;/a&gt; laptop. (Online it says 3540 but on my command line is like anjanesh@anjanesh-Latitude-3560:)&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This is how the bottom of my monitor is&#xD;&#xA;[![This is how the bottom of my monitor is][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TMME.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35148" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10442" RevisionGUID="55aff7ac-6c47-4128-9f2f-d209d09a9385" CreationDate="2019-01-15T16:20:23.750" UserId="4896" Text="The ports pictured are:&#xD;&#xA;Left (almost out of picture) - HDMI&#xD;&#xA;Middle - DVI&#xD;&#xA;Right - VGA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your laptop has HDMI and VGA ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cables usually have the same type of connector on both ends,  but you can get different ones, and there are adapters the can change the connector at one end. So you could use quite a wide variety of cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the simplest, best quality and most future-proof option would be a standard HDMI cable. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="3686628a-302b-4de5-9c68-99b56f842072" CreationDate="2019-01-15T16:34:46.073" UserId="10552" Text="I am upgrading a an 8 port, unmanaged network switch (3com 3CGSU08) for a lab because I need more ports and 10 Gbe connections. I am not a networking engineer by profession and this is the first time I have purchased a switch; consequently, I am unsure about whether its worth the extra money to purchase a managed switch vs and unmanaged one. From reading reviews online some people complain about the managed features of switches not really delivering what is advertised. The switch is being used to network together a bunch of linux servers and I have a fair amount of linux experience, but not so much on the networking side of things. What am I really getting into by going with an unmanaged switch vs a managed one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two examples of switches I have looked at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**QNAP QSW-1208-8C-US 12-Port Unmanaged Switch – Cost $590**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:** Cheapest, Likely to work w/NAS as is same brand, Flexible between RJ45/SFP+ ports &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:** Few reviews said they had to reboot every couple weeks to keep all ports passing traffic. No management software thus will need configuration from IT experts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NETGEAR 12-port 10Gig Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Switch – Cost $980**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:** Simpler to manage using web interface resulting in less IT support needed, Overall better reviews &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:** Higher cost" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35150" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="3686628a-302b-4de5-9c68-99b56f842072" CreationDate="2019-01-15T16:34:46.073" UserId="10552" Text="Unmanaged vs managed network switch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35151" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="3686628a-302b-4de5-9c68-99b56f842072" CreationDate="2019-01-15T16:34:46.073" UserId="10552" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35156" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="b5b0d88c-71b6-466e-9388-a9e25add49ea" CreationDate="2019-01-15T18:17:07.980" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35157" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="f7d16b6d-2c7a-4b0a-8fdc-4f110356b639" CreationDate="2019-01-15T21:16:02.257" UserId="10545" Comment="added 527 characters in body" Text="I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, it is virtually impossible to get a clear picture of the complete selection that is out there. Each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; My question is -- what is the concise overview of all the announced RTX laptops to be released with their specs clearly layed out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be grateful if someone could post this information as a summary, or refer to a source online which is to the point. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following the suggestion in a comment, let me specify which specs I am looking for in particular; I am interested in all RTX laptops to be released on 29th Jan that preferably have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; display (preferably, but might consider a 17&quot; notable mention)&#xD;&#xA;- i7 cpu (prefer stronger single process performance over parallel processing)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- 256+GB SSD &amp; 1+TB HDD (might adjust after the fact)&#xD;&#xA;- 144Hz screen (preferably, not a deal breaker)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA RTX 2070 (or 2080, prefer to avoid Max-Q and Optimus if possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm interested in brands, model designs and pricing of any laptop that approximately fits the above criteria. Thanks for any suggestion!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would describe my budget allocation towards this laptop as a Gaussian that is centered at $2000, with 3*sigma=$1000 (in USD to be shipped to North-East US).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT2:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, this question is on hold, so I cannot post an answer to it. However, searching some more online, I found the following resources:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Ultrabookreview has a list of all upcoming RTX and RTX Max-Q laptops, with more details to be filled in at a later time when it becomes available:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://www.ultrabookreview.com/24319-laptops-nvidia-rtx-2080/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Similarly, techwalls has a list of all RTX 2080 laptops, with pictures and specs:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://www.techwalls.com/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-laptops/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35158" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10439" RevisionGUID="77267ce4-99a3-4cf2-a0e7-8511fc3c322f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T22:50:48.427" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35159" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="2d7747f4-d4d2-4b91-a096-5fd66765fe4f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T23:45:47.287" UserId="6047" Comment="Reformat to fit site, discarded unnecessary information" Text="## Intro ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen some information scattered online about various new laptops that are bound to be released on 29th January 2019, which feature the new NVIDIA RTX graphics cards. However, each online source I stumble upon seems to concentrate on only one brand, and the concrete specs and pricing are hard to uncover in a wall of blabbering in the articles...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired Laptop Specs&#xD;&#xA;--------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in all RTX laptops to be released on Jan 29th with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15&quot; display (preferably, but might consider a 17&quot; notable mention)&#xD;&#xA;- i7 cpu (prefer stronger single process performance over parallel processing)&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;- 256+GB SSD &amp; 1+TB HDD (might adjust after the fact)&#xD;&#xA;- 144Hz screen (preferably, not a deal breaker)&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA RTX 2070 (or 2080, prefer to avoid Max-Q and Optimus if possible)&#xD;&#xA;- Ships within the US&#xD;&#xA;- Budget centered around $2000, $3000 reluctantly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I'm interested in brands, model designs and pricing of any laptop that approximately fits the above criteria. Thanks for any suggestion!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resources/Articles&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Ultrabookreview has a list of all upcoming RTX and RTX Max-Q laptops, with more details to be filled in at a later time when it becomes available:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://www.ultrabookreview.com/24319-laptops-nvidia-rtx-2080/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Similarly, techwalls has a list of all RTX 2080 laptops, with pictures and specs:&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://www.techwalls.com/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-laptops/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35160" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="2d7747f4-d4d2-4b91-a096-5fd66765fe4f" CreationDate="2019-01-15T23:45:47.287" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 10545 edit id of 793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35169" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="1d78b6f5-4c3a-402a-9d79-5a76e2ca9112" CreationDate="2019-01-16T16:09:41.747" UserId="10552" Comment="added 1264 characters in body" Text="I am upgrading an 8 port, unmanaged network switch (3com 3CGSU08) for a lab because I need more ports and 10 Gbe connections. I am not a networking engineer by profession and this is the first time I have purchased a switch; consequently, I am unsure about whether its worth the extra money to purchase a managed switch vs and unmanaged one. From reading reviews online some people complain about the managed features of switches not really delivering what is advertised. The switch is being used to network together a bunch of linux servers and I have a fair amount of linux experience, but not so much on the networking side of things. What am I really getting into by going with an unmanaged switch vs a managed one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update in response to comment**&#xD;&#xA;The reason the switch is being upgraded is because I am integrating a new NAS into the network that has 10 Gbe ethernet for fast data transfer between the NAS and the servers it supports. All ports on the current 8-port switch are full (7 servers + gateway) which is why I need more ports to accommodate introducing the NAS. The current switch also doesn't suppor 10 Gbe connections even though the servers do. So I am looking to upgrade the switch to meet the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Get more ports (might also need to expand number of servers in the future)&#xD;&#xA;2. Support fast data transfer between the NAS and the servers&#xD;&#xA;3. and minimize the need for IT support in maintaining the switch. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is about the last requirement. I have near zero experience maintaining a network such as this one. So how difficult is it going to be for me to deal with network maintenance if I go with a managed vs unmanaged switch? How much manual configuring am I going to have to do if any with the unmanaged option? Since there is quite a price difference between managed and unmanaged (see below), what am I really getting for the extra money if I go with a managed switch? I hope that makes it more clear what I am asking. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two examples of switches I have looked at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**QNAP QSW-1208-8C-US 12-Port Unmanaged Switch – Cost $590**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:** Cheapest, Likely to work w/NAS as is same brand, Flexible between RJ45/SFP+ ports &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:** Few reviews said they had to reboot every couple weeks to keep all ports passing traffic. No management software thus will need configuration from IT experts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NETGEAR 12-port 10Gig Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Switch – Cost $980**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Pros:** Simpler to manage using web interface resulting in less IT support needed, Overall better reviews &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Cons:** Higher cost" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10443" RevisionGUID="087f2039-2852-43be-ab55-186eb08f49ce" CreationDate="2019-01-16T17:03:43.497" UserId="10552" Comment="added 1093 characters in body" Text="I am upgrading an 8 port, unmanaged network switch (3com 3CGSU08) for a lab because I need more ports and 10 Gbe connections. I am not a networking engineer by profession and this is the first time I have purchased a switch; consequently, I am unsure about whether its worth the extra money to purchase a managed switch vs and unmanaged one. From reading reviews online some people complain about the managed features of switches not really delivering what is advertised. The switch is being used to network together a bunch of linux servers and I have a fair amount of linux experience, but not so much on the networking side of things. What am I really getting into by going with an unmanaged switch vs a managed one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update 1 in response to comment**&#xD;&#xA;The reason the switch is being upgraded is because I am integrating a new NAS into the network that has 10 Gbe ethernet for fast data transfer between the NAS and the servers it supports. All ports on the current 8-port switch are full (7 servers + gateway) which is why I need more ports to accommodate introducing the NAS. The current switch also doesn't suppor 10 Gbe connections even though the servers do. So I am looking to upgrade the switch to meet the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Get more ports (might also need to expand number of servers in the future)&#xD;&#xA;2. Support fast data transfer between the NAS and the servers. This means I need at least ten 10 Gbe capable ports (RJ45 or SFP+ is ok).&#xD;&#xA;3. and minimize the need for IT support in maintaining the switch. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is about the last requirement. I have near zero experience maintaining a network such as this one. So how difficult is it going to be for me to deal with network maintenance if I go with a managed vs unmanaged switch? How much manual configuring am I going to have to do if any with the unmanaged option? Since there is quite a price difference between managed and unmanaged (see below), what am I really getting for the extra money if I go with a managed switch? I hope that makes it more clear what I am asking. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two examples of switches I have looked at:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [QNAP QSW-1208-8C-US 12-Port Unmanaged Switch][1] – Cost $590&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [NETGEAR 12-port 10Gig Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Switch][2] – Cost $980&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update 2, I answered my own question**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Turns out I had a fundamental misunderstanding about the differences between managed and unmanaged switches. I was incorrectly under the impression that an unmanaged switch would need more configuration by IT than a managed switch would. Turns out unmanaged switches are ususally plug-n-play thus needing no configuration. This is because they don't offer as many features their managed switch counterparts. Managed switches have lots of features and thus usually need more configuration by IT. I found this information from reading a couple of blog posts. The first is focused on [home networks][3], the other for [industrial automation networks][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately this leads me to yet another question for my specific scenario, that is, &quot;do I need any of the managed switch features such as VLANS, QoS, and Layer 3 switching?&quot; However, seems like I just need to dig deeper into each of these on my own. If anyone knows of some good resources to answer this new question please do share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/QNAP-QSW-1208-8C-US-12-Port-Unmanaged-10GBASE-T/dp/B07CDJ9YGM&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Lifetime-Protection-XS712Tv2/dp/B074V579V3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/network-switch-basics,4123.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://blogs.cisco.com/manufacturing/the-top-5-reasons-to-avoid-unmanaged-switches-on-your-machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35171" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="26954f62-5fcc-4dc1-a9ee-1ef85880626c" CreationDate="2019-01-16T18:44:55.420" UserId="10156" Text="**requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15 inch or less in width and 12 inch or less in height (so it can fit in my bag)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- less than 10 pounds since I plan to carry it around &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- needs to be able to run multiple adobe apps and projects at once without excessive slowdown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can handle a good screen type drawing tablet or has a touch screen accurate enough to keep up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**preferences:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least one usb-c port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Relatively sturdy as I am a bit of a klutz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**additional notes:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I know I'm probably asking for a lot so if I am give me some advice to tone it down efficiently or how much it would realistically cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I plan to buy a graphics tablet with a screen as well since I really don't trust touch screen that aren't explicitly designed for drawing. &#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35172" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="26954f62-5fcc-4dc1-a9ee-1ef85880626c" CreationDate="2019-01-16T18:44:55.420" UserId="10156" Text="a laptop for a graphics design under 1000 that can pair with a good drawing tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35173" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="26954f62-5fcc-4dc1-a9ee-1ef85880626c" CreationDate="2019-01-16T18:44:55.420" UserId="10156" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="9f712b9c-4cc6-47d8-b33e-a59b586da927" CreationDate="2019-01-16T22:49:03.383" UserId="10559" Text="i need to wireslessly capture hearth rate to pc. I was thinking using something like xiaomi band, but it seems there is no api for that. I just need real time tracking of my hearth rate. And i think using smart watches seems like most convinient solution. But i dont seem to find any viable options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks for any response." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35175" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="9f712b9c-4cc6-47d8-b33e-a59b586da927" CreationDate="2019-01-16T22:49:03.383" UserId="10559" Text="Cheap way to capture heart rate data wirelessly with my pc?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35176" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="9f712b9c-4cc6-47d8-b33e-a59b586da927" CreationDate="2019-01-16T22:49:03.383" UserId="10559" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10449" RevisionGUID="4a791c06-40e7-479f-b93f-0d5139aaa57e" CreationDate="2019-01-17T03:56:43.470" UserId="10496" Text="What's the best 32&quot; 4K monitor for office work when considering price? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have a height adjustable stand and should be VESA mountable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, it should have a DisplayPort input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;IPS preferred, but not required. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35182" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10449" RevisionGUID="4a791c06-40e7-479f-b93f-0d5139aaa57e" CreationDate="2019-01-17T03:56:43.470" UserId="10496" Text="32&quot; 4K monitor for office work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35183" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10449" RevisionGUID="4a791c06-40e7-479f-b93f-0d5139aaa57e" CreationDate="2019-01-17T03:56:43.470" UserId="10496" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35184" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10450" RevisionGUID="d8586bf0-0a85-4d19-aae5-773d16791a8f" CreationDate="2019-01-17T04:39:00.373" UserId="6047" Text="[Acer Predator Helios 300 | $814 + $9.99 Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Acer Predator Helios 300 G3-571-77QK][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I know I'm probably asking for a lot so if I am give me some advice to tone it down efficiently or how much it would realistically cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, $1000 is a pretty generous budget considering your user case. Since you want to have multiple adobe products up at once and running smoothly, I've decided to recommend you a discrete graphics card, 16 GB of RAM and an SSD. The discrete will be able to handle visually intensive processing, the RAM multiple applications, and the SSD will cut down on application startup time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of sturdiness, the laptop is constructed primary with brushed aluminum rather than completely in plastic so it will be quite a bit more robust for people with an active lifestyle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; All in all, the Helios 300 is a well-built 15-inch gaming laptop that&#xD;&#xA;&gt; isn’t too heavy and big to carry around, has decent input devices and&#xD;&#xA;&gt; appears to be pretty sturdy with good choice of materials. We&#xD;&#xA;&gt; definitely recommend it in this price range if the above-mentioned&#xD;&#xA;&gt; properties are of great importance to you.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; \- [laptopmedia.com][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **i7-7700HQ**&#xD;&#xA; - **Nvidia GTX 1060 6 GB**&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA; - 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - **Actual Dimensions (W x D x H) 15.40&quot; x 10.50&quot; x 1.05&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - **Screen Dimensions 15.6&quot; (Diagonal) (W x H) 13.6 x 7.6&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - **5.95 lbs.**&#xD;&#xA; - USB 2.0 x 2 | USB 3.0 x 1 | **USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type C x 1**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding your parameter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - 15 inch or less in width and 12 inch or less in height (so it can fit in my bag)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I couldn't really find any 16:9 aspect ratio laptops in this performance range that match this exact size. Going into the &lt; 13&quot; range massively compromises performance and/or price. If you really cannot comprise on the bag, here is a list of 300 backpacks that will be able to fit both this laptop and a drawing tablet starting from $16.43 to $170, which still puts us under 1000 dollars total:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[\[Compatible Backpacks sorted by price\]][4]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also [here is a good resource][5] if you want an explanation for all the different types of weaves/materials for the backpack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834316212&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GcA23.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://laptopmedia.com/review/acer-predator-helios-300-g3-571-gtx-1060-review-acers-affordable-gtx-1060-powered-notebook/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100167830%20600029868%20600029875%20600029885%20600029890%20600582101%20600029896&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;Description=15%2E6%22%20laptop%20bags&amp;page=1&amp;bop=And&amp;PageSize=96&amp;order=PRICE&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://pangolinswithpacks.com/the-definitive-guide-that-you-never-wanted-backpack-fabrics-566aa1567af9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="72a8d072-4f5f-4e24-9e29-b950cb8bd3bd" CreationDate="2019-01-17T14:19:59.653" UserId="10156" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="**requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15 inch or less in width and 12 inch or less in height (so it can fit in my bag)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- less than 10 pounds since I plan to carry it around &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- needs to be able to run multiple adobe apps and projects at once without excessive slowdown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can handle a good screen type drawing tablet or has a touch screen accurate enough to keep up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**preferences:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least one usb-c port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Relatively sturdy as I am a bit of a klutz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**additional notes:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I know I'm probably asking for a lot so if I am give me some advice to tone it down efficiently or how much it would realistically cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I plan to buy a graphics tablet with a screen as well since I really don't trust touch screen that aren't explicitly designed for drawing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I already have a 16 gb ddr4 ram chip and a 1tb nvme m.2 ssd so being able to at least replace the ssd would be nice.&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35194" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="a385729c-39a8-4b87-b08c-43d8b7dfc9b9" CreationDate="2019-01-17T14:25:41.767" UserId="10156" Comment="Move dimensions to preferences and added a few notes (bottom 2)" Text="**requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- less than 10 pounds since I plan to carry it around &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- needs to be able to run multiple adobe apps and projects at once without excessive slowdown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can handle a good screen type drawing tablet or has a touch screen accurate enough to keep up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**preferences:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- at least one usb-c port&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Relatively sturdy as I am a bit of a klutz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 15 inch or less in width and 12 inch or less in height (so it can fit in my bag) I can buy a new bag if necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible due to not making very much money right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**additional notes:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I know I'm probably asking for a lot so if I am give me some advice to tone it down efficiently or how much it would realistically cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I plan to buy a graphics tablet with a screen as well since I really don't trust touch screen that aren't explicitly designed for drawing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I already have a 16 gb ddr4 ram chip and a 1tb nvme m.2 ssd so being able to at least replace the ssd would be nice.&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35195" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10453" RevisionGUID="8c45cf6e-d242-469b-a6b0-24927daec918" CreationDate="2019-01-17T19:12:11.987" UserId="10349" Text="Well let me be the one to answer my own question. I found a working adapter!&#xA;&#xA;This adapter (&#xA;[€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xA; https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bt4qO0Ha][1])&#xA;from AliExpress is advertised as a USB C splitter just like the ones on Amazon, but on the contrary it never mentions having a DAC like the ones on Amazon. What it does mention is working with the Pixel phones and I can confirm that! Not only does it work for the Google 3.5mm dongle, but it also works for a mouse and USB flash drive I tried. &#xA;I'm sure there are some on Amazon working the same way (as they often re-sell Chinese stock) but I haven't tried any of those as they were more expensive.&#xA;&#xA;I also haven't tried it on other devices like a Chromebook but I assume it works the same for all USB 3.1 devices (like the pixel 2xl). Whether USB alternative mode is supported for displays I cannot test currently.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xA; https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bt4qO0Ha" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10454" RevisionGUID="7ec916eb-47dd-484f-b896-1962049a74b9" CreationDate="2019-01-17T20:03:48.943" UserId="10562" Text="I'm working on coming up with suggestions for an alternate interface to an existing piece of software, and one avenue I wanted to explore was using gesture gloves. They don't need to be particularly advanced (this isn't Minority Report), just enough so that I could get a basic image of gestures to process and interpret as gestures. Whether the data is given as an image from a camera or as raw sensor data is irrelevant. I would prefer is there is an API to handle the gesture recognition, but that's not a hard requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've already looked a lot on my own and am not coming up with great results. Most I'm finding are either not available for retail sale, being Kickstarted (Gest), or are strictly for VR applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apologies if this isn't the right community, but I didn't see any others that really fit the question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35197" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10454" RevisionGUID="7ec916eb-47dd-484f-b896-1962049a74b9" CreationDate="2019-01-17T20:03:48.943" UserId="10562" Text="Gesture Gloves to Integrate Into Existing Software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35198" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10454" RevisionGUID="7ec916eb-47dd-484f-b896-1962049a74b9" CreationDate="2019-01-17T20:03:48.943" UserId="10562" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35199" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10455" RevisionGUID="99d81a47-b0c6-4f60-8e5e-a9654009dab1" CreationDate="2019-01-18T01:11:02.877" UserId="6047" Text="[AOC - U3277PWQU | AU $558.00][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![AOC U3277PWQU][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - W-LED **3840 x 2160 p**&#xD;&#xA; - **VESA Interface: 100 x 100 mm**&#xD;&#xA; - **Height Adjustment Range: 180 mm**&#xD;&#xA; - **DisplayPort 1.2 x 1**&#xD;&#xA; - Exact Dimension: 31.5&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Flicker Free Technology&#xD;&#xA; - Refresh Rate: 60 Hz&#xD;&#xA; - Response Time: 4 ms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[\[See Comprehensive Spec List Here\]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;Regarding IPS requirement: Monitors in this price range and resolution are pretty much exclusively LED. IPS is a technology used in LCD to mimic LED properties.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[\[Track Cheapest Price for model here\]][4]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.shoppingexpress.com.au/buy/aoc-u3277pwqu-32-4k-uhd-professional-led-monitor/U3277PWQU&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7THyh.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/6ef26a6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/H2tWGX/aoc-u3277pwqu-320-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-u3277pwqu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35211" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10460" RevisionGUID="6740d350-d393-4797-8bb5-a88a240ed9b5" CreationDate="2019-01-18T13:33:54.930" UserId="9084" Text="I have a mobility and space issue.  I moved from a 5000 sq. ft. house to a 1200 sq ft condominium, and have two computers each sharing the Thermaltake WP200 chassis:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![I have the addon box on the bottom featured here.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3t0RB.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the machine is on castors and I have all hardwood floors, its sheer mass makes it too large to fit under a desk.   This means, with a desk the same depth next to it, I lose enough space in my living room to block the TV from other users when I sit in my chair.  Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of options for locations without blocking the hallway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'd like to do is eliminate the desk entirely by affixing some sort of swing arms for monitors and peripherals that can fold down to the sides or top of the case when not in use.  Monitors can remain upright.   Unfortunately, my own research just keeps turning up wall mounts and nothing that would give me the vertical range of motion needed for the task. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What can I use to turn this beast into a self-contained rolling cart of computing awesomeness so I can eliminate using a full sized desk entirely?  I need to be able to fit 3 monitors, a mouse, a keyboard, a joystick, and a flight throttle as needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35212" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10460" RevisionGUID="6740d350-d393-4797-8bb5-a88a240ed9b5" CreationDate="2019-01-18T13:33:54.930" UserId="9084" Text="Is there a way I can build a &quot;modular desk&quot; around this case?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35213" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10460" RevisionGUID="6740d350-d393-4797-8bb5-a88a240ed9b5" CreationDate="2019-01-18T13:33:54.930" UserId="9084" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35215" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10453" RevisionGUID="848d433a-73c9-44a2-aa5a-e55c84866882" CreationDate="2019-01-18T15:59:53.940" UserId="10349" Comment="added 297 characters in body" Text="Well let me be the one to answer my own question. I found a working adapter!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This adapter (&#xD;&#xA;[€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xD;&#xA; https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bt4qO0Ha][1])&#xD;&#xA;from AliExpress is advertised as a USB C splitter just like the ones on Amazon, but on the contrary it never mentions having a DAC like the ones on Amazon. What it does mention is working with the Pixel phones and I can confirm that! Not only does it work for the Google 3.5mm dongle, but it also works for a mouse and USB flash drive I tried. &#xD;&#xA;I'm sure there are some on Amazon working the same way (as they often re-sell Chinese stock) but I haven't tried any of those as they were more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also haven't tried it on other devices like a Chromebook but I assume it works the same for all USB 3.1 devices (like the pixel 2xl). Whether USB alternative mode is supported for displays I cannot test currently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I just tried the adapter with a Oneplus 6T (USB 2.0 with analog audio over USB) and it only works one port at a time. And analog audio doesn't work. This is quite expected because of the broken and old spec Oneplus uses and the lack of audio over usb c wires in the adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xD;&#xA; https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bt4qO0Ha" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="fa121d81-d932-42b8-87f4-355d99054357" CreationDate="2019-01-18T16:03:28.820" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Correct typos" Text="I need to wirelessly capture hearth rate to PC. I was thinking using something like Xiaomi band, but it seems there is no API for that. I just need real time tracking of my hearth rate. And I think using smart watches seems like most convenient solution. But I don't seem to find any viable options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any response." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35217" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="fa121d81-d932-42b8-87f4-355d99054357" CreationDate="2019-01-18T16:03:28.820" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Correct typos" Text="Cheap way to capture heart rate data wirelessly with my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35218" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="fa121d81-d932-42b8-87f4-355d99054357" CreationDate="2019-01-18T16:03:28.820" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 10559 edit id of 794" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35219" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10453" RevisionGUID="22bccf70-7fc9-48c4-9e7d-18db7620f42a" CreationDate="2019-01-18T16:10:12.463" UserId="10349" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="Well let me be the one to answer my own question. I found a working adapter!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This adapter https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw [1]&#xD;&#xA;from AliExpress is advertised as a USB C splitter just like the ones on Amazon, but on the contrary it never mentions having a DAC like the ones on Amazon. What it does mention is working with the Pixel phones and I can confirm that! Not only does it work for the Google 3.5mm dongle, but it also works for a mouse and USB flash drive I tried. &#xD;&#xA;I'm sure there are some on Amazon working the same way (as they often re-sell Chinese stock) but I haven't tried any of those as they were more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also haven't tried it on other devices like a Chromebook but I assume it works the same for all USB 3.1 devices (like the pixel 2xl). Whether USB alternative mode is supported for displays I cannot test currently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I just tried the adapter with a Oneplus 6T (USB 2.0 with analog audio over USB) and it only works one port at a time. And analog audio doesn't work. This is quite expected because of the broken and old spec Oneplus uses and the lack of audio over usb c wires in the adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xD;&#xA; https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35223" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8452" RevisionGUID="15a58123-c91c-4b84-b905-070db27f11ed" CreationDate="2019-01-18T20:01:40.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10462" RevisionGUID="91f49e62-138b-4688-b781-fa4caa3af115" CreationDate="2019-01-19T03:38:14.157" UserId="1921" Text="Place this on top and 3 monitors solved&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Freestanding-Compatible-MI-2789-Horizontal/dp/B01HSJX1FG/ref=asc_df_B01HSJX1FG/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198069575723&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=15351618312070035641&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018840&amp;hvtargid=pla-348819333100&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;FULLY ADJUSTABLE TRIPLE MONITOR STAND - Triple arms are height adjustable on the vertical pole. Side arms can articulate in three different locations for best positioning of the screens. Each monitor can tilt up 80 or down 45 degrees and rotate 360 degrees. Side monitors can swivel 360 degrees. Rotating the monitor holders allows landscape or portrait positioning. No need to remove the monitors to change positions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is just one of many &quot;desk mount 3 monitor&quot; search results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[google][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Caeij.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&amp;ei=HZlCXNyMNeOUjwSFsaS4Cw&amp;q=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;oq=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299l2.13345.13999..14765...0.0..0.93.233.3......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i8i7i30.BfuKYHU7NlE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35227" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10462" RevisionGUID="b627688a-14c9-4054-9f15-b4ca2092e984" CreationDate="2019-01-19T03:44:00.163" UserId="1921" Comment="added 517 characters in body" Text="Place this on top and 3 monitors solved&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Freestanding-Compatible-MI-2789-Horizontal/dp/B01HSJX1FG/ref=asc_df_B01HSJX1FG/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198069575723&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=15351618312070035641&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018840&amp;hvtargid=pla-348819333100&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;FULLY ADJUSTABLE TRIPLE MONITOR STAND - Triple arms are height adjustable on the vertical pole. Side arms can articulate in three different locations for best positioning of the screens. Each monitor can tilt up 80 or down 45 degrees and rotate 360 degrees. Side monitors can swivel 360 degrees. Rotating the monitor holders allows landscape or portrait positioning. No need to remove the monitors to change positions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is just one of many &quot;desk mount 3 monitor&quot; search results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest, I guess it just depends on how elaborate or simple you want to be.  The ultra lazy would just put a cut down sheet of plywood on the top, and the monitor stand.  Resting the keyboard, mouse, and etc on the plywood.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you bought a 4x8 sheet plywood you probably have extra, and could probably cut out 2 pieces one for the right and left side and screw them together.  It maybe desirable to add a piece across the back, or front to add addition strength depending on the type of wood selected. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[google][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Caeij.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&amp;ei=HZlCXNyMNeOUjwSFsaS4Cw&amp;q=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;oq=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299l2.13345.13999..14765...0.0..0.93.233.3......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i8i7i30.BfuKYHU7NlE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35228" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10462" RevisionGUID="339417ce-bb90-433e-b8ba-20ed49799acc" CreationDate="2019-01-19T03:53:33.487" UserId="1921" Comment="added 844 characters in body" Text="Place this on top and 3 monitors solved&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Freestanding-Compatible-MI-2789-Horizontal/dp/B01HSJX1FG/ref=asc_df_B01HSJX1FG/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198069575723&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=15351618312070035641&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018840&amp;hvtargid=pla-348819333100&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;FULLY ADJUSTABLE TRIPLE MONITOR STAND - Triple arms are height adjustable on the vertical pole. Side arms can articulate in three different locations for best positioning of the screens. Each monitor can tilt up 80 or down 45 degrees and rotate 360 degrees. Side monitors can swivel 360 degrees. Rotating the monitor holders allows landscape or portrait positioning. No need to remove the monitors to change positions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is just one of many &quot;desk mount 3 monitor&quot; search results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest, I guess it just depends on how elaborate or simple you want to be.  The ultra lazy would just put a cut down sheet of plywood on the top, and the monitor stand.  Resting the keyboard, mouse, and etc on the plywood.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you bought a 4x8 sheet plywood you probably have extra, and could probably cut out 2 pieces one for the right and left side and screw them together.  It maybe desirable to add a piece across the back, or front to add addition strength depending on the type of wood selected. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[google][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------Answer #2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/LUXOR-Standup-CF48-DW-Stand-Crank-Adjustable/dp/B00Y1QDFJM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1547869705&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=adjustable+height+desk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon/Google has dozens of adjustable height desks, including sit/stand desks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![sit stand desk][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;Overall Dimensions with casters: 48&quot;W x 29.5&quot;D x 32.6&quot; to 48.5&quot;H, Adjustable Height Range: **Between 26&quot;-51.6&quot;H**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[your case][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon says your case is 27&quot; tall recommend table has that easily handle as it can go as high as 51&quot; and as low as 26&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Caeij.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&amp;ei=HZlCXNyMNeOUjwSFsaS4Cw&amp;q=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;oq=desktop%20mount%20for%203%20%20monitor&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299l2.13345.13999..14765...0.0..0.93.233.3......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i8i7i30.BfuKYHU7NlE&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3FT8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Dismantle-Stackable-Certified-CA-1F2-00F1WN-00/dp/B01C71Q8WS/ref=asc_df_B01C71Q8WS/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=241890262974&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=6892218057976865225&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018840&amp;hvtargid=pla-568790618300&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10463" RevisionGUID="4e636a7c-7149-4740-b16f-2a699c782f00" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:06:36.990" UserId="10570" Text="Looking for recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;I'm a full stack engineer. I work with visual studio, some database tools, visual studio code and lots of other tools, but none are graphic intensive. I'm passed the video gaming phase so gaming laptops might not be the best option for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * budget: up to $1600&#xD;&#xA; * i7 8th generation&#xD;&#xA; * 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; * SSD&#xD;&#xA; * light weight and ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; * comfortable keyboard with backlight (plus if mechanical)&#xD;&#xA; * decent battery life&#xD;&#xA; * Full HD display&#xD;&#xA; * Quiet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10463" RevisionGUID="4e636a7c-7149-4740-b16f-2a699c782f00" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:06:36.990" UserId="10570" Text="Laptop recommendations for some heavy development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10463" RevisionGUID="4e636a7c-7149-4740-b16f-2a699c782f00" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:06:36.990" UserId="10570" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10464" RevisionGUID="1468acc7-ddc0-4c6c-a2ab-4ae55b0822f3" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:12:56.060" UserId="9323" Text="I bought a CH341 or similar ROM programmer (GZUT OnePro) from Ebay ages ago, but it has absolutely no Linux support whatsoever, and its Windows drivers are not WHQL which requires you to disable driver signature enforcement (massive security risk). Anybody not willing to get their driver signed or made open source has something to hide, and I am only ever willing to risk running it on my experimental computer which I use for kernel development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a different one that also has an extensive list of supported chips, but no Linux support (and not even Windows 10): https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Speed-TL866CS-Programmer-USB-EPROM-EEPROM-FLASH-BIOS-AVR-AL-PIC/171997875525&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The silly thing is that this could all be done with an Arduino with USB-UART (such as Leonardo) and just appear as a generic serial device, with automatic universal driver support. However, I cannot find a solid software package to flash to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody own a ROM programmer that they would recommend, that has Linux support, and a similar range of supported ROM chips to the one above?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ps: I did look first, but if this is a duplicate post, I apologise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35233" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10464" RevisionGUID="1468acc7-ddc0-4c6c-a2ab-4ae55b0822f3" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:12:56.060" UserId="9323" Text="USB EEPROM Flash Programmer with Linux support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35234" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10464" RevisionGUID="1468acc7-ddc0-4c6c-a2ab-4ae55b0822f3" CreationDate="2019-01-19T04:12:56.060" UserId="9323" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35236" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10465" RevisionGUID="806123e3-218c-48f0-899e-c86ebb6fda4f" CreationDate="2019-01-19T09:52:42.767" UserId="6047" Text="&gt; I'm passed the video gaming phase so gaming laptops might not be the&#xD;&#xA;&gt; best option for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the contrary, I've found gaming laptops too have good value when aiming for higher ends specs. In addition, mechanical and/or backlit keyboards are harder to find in non-gaming series machines as the average consumer does not care about backlit mechanical keyboards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems there are not many laptop manufacturers that explicitly make mechanical keyboard laptops. You'll also notice that these laptops have discrete graphics cards. At this price/spec range this is pretty much par for the course. These just happened to be the cheapest laptops I could find matching your specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Eluktronics MECH-15 G2 | $1,599.95 + Free Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MECH-15 G2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **i7-8750H**&#xD;&#xA; - **16 GB DDR4 RAM**&#xD;&#xA; - **256GB PCIe NVMe SSD** + 2TB FireCuda SSHD&#xD;&#xA; - **4.9 lbs.**&#xD;&#xA; - **144Hz FHD**&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1060 6GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unforunately this laptop is a 3 Cell Li-ion battery, and with the extra SSHD, Discrete Graphics, your laptop battery life may not be the longest, but this only really applies if you're gaming. With your normal user case you probably will get a decent battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;For a more price efficient solution leaving off mechanical keyboards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I happen to also do Full Stack Development for my University's traffic safety research lab and daily use a MSI GS-60 6QE, which has the same steel series keyboard in this laptop. **Since this is a gaming laptop the keyboard comes equipped with anti-ghosting measures.** Having typed somewhere in the ballpark of a couple hundred thousand lines of code on this laptop I can tell you it has an exceedingly decent typing experience as far as membrane keyboards go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL63 | $1,075.00 + Free Shipping][3]&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL63][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **6 Cell Li-ion battery**&#xD;&#xA; - i7-8750H&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 256GB M.2 NVMe PCIe&#xD;&#xA; - 4.9 lbs.&#xD;&#xA; - FHD&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1060 6 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main difference here is the 60 Hz monitor and no mechanical keyboard. I'll let you decide whether or not that is worth $525. Personally I would just get this laptop and then buy a really nice mechanical keyboard, but that might end up in contravention to the whole portability factor of having a laptop in the first place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA8S17GE9280&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VL5Om.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4P08M36246&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mszc8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10386" RevisionGUID="4e156367-1654-498a-8597-e2f67ae2fe06" CreationDate="2019-01-19T12:09:39.250" UserId="30" Comment="added 155 characters in body" Text="Minifree offers the [**Libre WNDR3800 Router**](https://minifree.org/product/minifree-wndr3800-libre-router/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are refurbished Netgear WNDR3800 or WNDR3800-1CHNAS routers that come pre-installed with free software only (uboot, [libreCMC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LibreCMC)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it has no RYF certification as of 2019-01-08, Minifree submitted the router for approval:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; It’s a completely FSF-endorseable router: in fact, Minifree has sent the FSF a router for [RYF evaluation](https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom). We are confident that this will succeed, and our laptops are already endorsed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Vikings offers the same: **[Vikings WNDR3800 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router](https://store.vikings.net/libre-friendly-hardware/wndrrouter)**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10467" RevisionGUID="17359769-d77d-49e0-80fd-a1d0d434f82f" CreationDate="2019-01-19T22:27:06.893" UserId="10576" Text="Due to some poor airflow in my case i'm looking to replace my default case fans and add 2 more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a case i have Sharkoon AI7000 and my mb is Aorus X470. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking around in my local market and i stumbled upon 3 fans. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One is the **Arctic Bionix F140** which has PWM PST (sharing)- https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/bionix-f140.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other one that was recommended to me was **Noctua NF-p14s redux** https://noctua.at/en/nf-p14s-redux-1200-pwm (to use as 2* intake fans).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And for exhaust i was recommended the 1500 pwm version of the Noctua https://noctua.at/en/nf-p14s-redux-1500-pwm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since on paper the Arctic fan seems to be better i thought i'd ask here too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips ? Both have the same price in my country (1$ difference) and i need 5 (2 front, 1 back, 2 top). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The airflow in my case is a bit bad (got RTX 2080 with Ryzen 7 2700X and my GPU seems to make my CPU hotter), more on the issue here -&gt; https://superuser.com/questions/1395950/fixing-airflow-in-pc-case/1395957?noredirect=1#comment2105355_1395957&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you've got any other recommendations i could look them up to see if they are available in my country, but i'd like to stay in the same price range if possible (since i need 5)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10467" RevisionGUID="17359769-d77d-49e0-80fd-a1d0d434f82f" CreationDate="2019-01-19T22:27:06.893" UserId="10576" Text="Case fans - 140mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10467" RevisionGUID="17359769-d77d-49e0-80fd-a1d0d434f82f" CreationDate="2019-01-19T22:27:06.893" UserId="10576" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35269" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10471" RevisionGUID="f8589481-dae4-4b62-ae62-426cbcd73aff" CreationDate="2019-01-20T18:48:54.630" UserId="9372" Text="I hope I understood correctly: You're asking for a computer connected scales that can weigh tube-like items about 1.2 m long and ~20 kg in weight, and that does not cost a fortune.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A so-called &quot;smart&quot; bathroom scales would meet these requirements, when applying the following modifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Choose scales with a known interface.** Smart bathroom scales have a Bluetooth 4.0 and / or wifi connection. Since you want to connect it to your internal software application and don't want to make that dependent on any cloud hosted &quot;solution&quot; by the scales' manufacturer, you would choose one where the protocol has already been reverse engineered and some code is available for the Bluetooth communications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    For that, have a look at the [supported scales in openScale][1] and [the code][2] to support them. These are all Bluetooth scales, so you'll need a Bluetooth 4.0 endpoint in your network, for example a Raspberry Pi 3. (Anything that only supports Bluetooth 3.0 is not compatible.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    It would be nicer to use a wifi scale, to avoid the Bluetooth device in your network and the need for developing the Bluetooth communications software. However, hacking the wifi scale to connect to your own server rather than the manufacturer's server involves bending the DNS ([example][3] for the Nokia / Withings Body), which you could consider an ugly hack that you don't want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **Enlarge the scales' platform.** A typical smart scales consists of four load cells and an electronics board, all connected with wires ([example][4]). I *think* that there will be no change in the scales' function or accuracy when you extend these wires and then mount the load cells and electronics into a larger, 1.2 m long platform that you build yourself. (However, since I did not try this yet, you'll have to try first …)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Supported-scales-in-openScale&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/tree/master/android_app/app/src/main/java/com/health/openscale/core/bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://blog.chris007.de/hacking-the-withings-wifi-body-scale-2/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hackaday.com/2016/12/05/body-cardio-weighing-scale-teardown/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="2dea173c-9c5e-4f0b-86c4-7807f0d04805" CreationDate="2019-01-20T19:27:31.253" UserId="9372" Text="There are many models of bathroom scales around that will transmit body mass, body fat percentage etc. measurement to a mobile app or web-based client software for tracking and analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for one of these that can perform its functions *locally*, without sending the measurements over the Internet to a manufacturer's cloud platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for reasons of (1) privacy, (2) technological simplicity, (3) being independent of an Internet connection (during travels, in low-infrastructure countries etc.), (4) being unaffected when the manufacturer chooses to close their cloud platform." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="2dea173c-9c5e-4f0b-86c4-7807f0d04805" CreationDate="2019-01-20T19:27:31.253" UserId="9372" Text="Smart bathroom scales that works without the cloud" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="2dea173c-9c5e-4f0b-86c4-7807f0d04805" CreationDate="2019-01-20T19:27:31.253" UserId="9372" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10473" RevisionGUID="fb6a2241-678b-429b-bc28-7ce74d7b72b2" CreationDate="2019-01-20T19:27:31.253" UserId="9372" Text="To avoid a lack of updates for software bugs, let's require that the scales model is either (1) currently in production, (2) supported by a manufacturer's software for their whole range of models or (3) supported by a third-party, open source software that is ideally in current development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Within these requirements, I found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **[Beurer diagnostic bathroom scales][1]** with the orange &quot;beurer connect&quot; logo (14 models). These all work with the Beurer Health Manager app ([Android][2] / [iOS][3]), for which &quot;the full range of functions can be used locally without registering&quot; ([source][3]). In addition, the Beurer BF700 / 710 / 800 models are [supported by openScale][4], an open source app for smart scales.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    At least in 2014, these were the only off-the-shelf bathroom scales that do not require cloud storage ([source][5]), and so far I am not aware that this changed for the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **[openScale supported scales][4].** This includes the Beurer BF700 / 710 / 800 models from above, 23 other commercial models, and a [generic hack][6] to transform any scales with LCD into a supported smart scales.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. **[Withings Body][7],** previously Nokia Body. This is a wifi connected scale talking unencrypted JSON, at least in the original model from 2010 to at least 2013. This hopefully still applies (but I can't yet confirm), and hopefully also applies to the Withings Body+ and Cardio models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    There are instructions [here][8] and [here][9] (including small applications) to modify it so it talks to your own server rather than the manufacturer's servers in the cloud. That own server could be for example a Raspberry Pi in your local home network, making the scales independent of an Internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    While the wifi connection is easier to work with than Bluetooth when developing your own software, the solution involves DNS bending which is a &quot;dirty hack&quot; that you might not like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.beurer.com/web/gb/products/wellbeing/weight-and-diagnosis/diagnostic-bathroom-scale/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beurer.connect.healthmanager&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://fnd.io/#/us/ios-universal-app/762342281&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Supported-scales-in-openScale&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Custom-Bluetooth-Scale#how-its-started-&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Custom-Bluetooth-Scale&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.withings.com/uk/en/body&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://blog.chris007.de/hacking-the-withings-wifi-body-scale-2/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.prolixium.com/mynews?id=915" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35274" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="19824c13-e6af-48f3-a2e7-e44855e46338" CreationDate="2019-01-20T19:33:32.190" UserId="9372" Comment="more catch title :P" Text="Cloud-less smart bathroom scales" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35283" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="c6882ee0-17ac-4525-a85a-f11ead9416ff" CreationDate="2019-01-21T00:20:37.703" UserId="9372" Comment="restructuring" Text="There are many models of bathroom scales around that will transmit body mass, body fat percentage etc. measurement to a mobile app or web-based client software for tracking and analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for **smart scales that function *offline***, without sending measurements over the Internet to a manufacturer's cloud platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is because I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. privacy, esp. for medically relevant personal data,&#xD;&#xA;2. simplicity,&#xD;&#xA;3. to use the scales in places without Internet (during travels, in low-infrastructure countries etc.),&#xD;&#xA;4. to not be afraid of losing the data and scales functions when the manufacturer chooses to close their cloud platform." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35284" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="836d0967-0d6a-45be-a254-2862764ea262" CreationDate="2019-01-21T00:27:47.513" UserId="9372" Comment="restructuring, better title" Text="There are many models of bathroom scales around that will transmit body mass, body fat percentage etc. measurement to a mobile app or web-based client software for tracking and analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for **smart scales that function *offline***, without sending measurements over the Internet to a manufacturer's cloud servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is because I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. privacy, esp. for medically relevant personal data,&#xD;&#xA;2. simplicity,&#xD;&#xA;3. to use the scales in places without Internet (during travels, in low-infrastructure countries etc.),&#xD;&#xA;4. to not be afraid of losing the data and scales functions when the manufacturer chooses to close their cloud platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Scales that don't properly work without a server half around the world are such a bad idea it should be *punished* …)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35285" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="836d0967-0d6a-45be-a254-2862764ea262" CreationDate="2019-01-21T00:27:47.513" UserId="9372" Comment="restructuring, better title" Text="Cloud-free smart bathroom scales" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35304" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10453" RevisionGUID="59c5671f-fc7e-49ff-b88b-142c40c43dd1" CreationDate="2019-01-21T12:38:19.593" UserId="10349" Comment="added 59 characters in body" Text="Well let me be the one to answer my own question. I found a working adapter!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This adapter https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw [1]&#xD;&#xA;from AliExpress is advertised as a USB C splitter just like the ones on Amazon, but on the contrary it never mentions having a DAC like the ones on Amazon. What it does mention is working with the Pixel phones and I can confirm that! Not only does it work for the Google 3.5mm dongle, but it also works for a mouse and USB flash drive I tried. &#xD;&#xA;I'm sure there are some on Amazon working the same way (as they often re-sell Chinese stock) but I haven't tried any of those as they were more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also haven't tried it on other devices like a Chromebook but I assume it works the same for all USB 3.1 devices (like the pixel 2xl). Whether USB alternative mode is supported for displays I cannot test currently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I just tried the adapter with a Oneplus 6T (USB 2.0 with analog audio over USB) and it only works one port at a time. And analog audio doesn't work. This is quite expected because of the broken and old spec Oneplus uses and the lack of audio over usb c wires in the adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;Edit: part number is 4NB900424-B if the link stops working&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xD;&#xA; https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35323" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="686e528d-8bf2-49a2-955e-b428326fedc9" CreationDate="2019-01-22T00:01:35.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10486" RevisionGUID="27ed7030-d668-4fa4-bfc7-88c4311b830b" CreationDate="2019-01-22T14:05:52.397" UserId="2292" Text="I went for an Acer Predator Helios 500 with an AMD Ryzen 2700 8 core processor, 512GB SSD and 1TB normal hard drive. The processor is socketed, so could theoretically be upgraded later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be upgraded to 4x16GB RAM if the 2 factory fitted 8GB RAM modules are replaced, as they are single rank, but 16GB modules appear to be double rank and they are not compatible. &#xD;&#xA;(If you do this, note that the first two slots are not user-accessible.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For anybody interested, the cost was €1927 plus ~€285 for extra RAM plus €20 to switch the modules. Hopefully I can sell the old RAM modules for €80 or more. So approx. €2150 with 32GB of RAM - I now just need to get another SODIMM or two." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10489" RevisionGUID="0e98885e-3996-41bd-be63-371b12f69ebe" CreationDate="2019-01-22T21:39:25.260" UserId="10506" Text="I'm looking for a small wired keyboard that could be used with a mobile phone (capable of [USB OTG](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. USB connection, preferably microUSB connector (to remove the need for reductions)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. foldable (e.g. like [HB066](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0GA-00UX-00003))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. preferably *without* wireless capabilities&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. may include touchpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;0. may need batteries&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question is similar to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8160/wired-usb-connected-foldable-keyboard-with-mouse, apart from the requirement to include touch area." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10489" RevisionGUID="0e98885e-3996-41bd-be63-371b12f69ebe" CreationDate="2019-01-22T21:39:25.260" UserId="10506" Text="Small (pocket size) folding wired USB keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10489" RevisionGUID="0e98885e-3996-41bd-be63-371b12f69ebe" CreationDate="2019-01-22T21:39:25.260" UserId="10506" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10493" RevisionGUID="9c2da353-f3b4-480d-8df5-f922443539c2" CreationDate="2019-01-23T16:21:33.460" UserId="10476" Text="The option A (Formula) is more interesting (and less expensive) since we got:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - the 5Gbit LAN (~90 EUR for a NIC)&#xD;&#xA;  - the mosfet watercooling (~50-100 EUR for the waterblocks) both for about 100 EUR instead of 140-190 EUR.&#xD;&#xA;  - more 4 PCIE lanes, available for instance for another NVMe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Switching to Skylake-X is interesting when:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - latency+speed host-device is important (eg., inference service)&#xD;&#xA; - when there is more than 3 discrete GPUs&#xD;&#xA; - when more than 64GB (128GB since z390) is needed&#xD;&#xA; - when bandwidth is critical (in memory bound compute tasks)&#xD;&#xA; - when there is a need of AVX512 (eg. computer vision), which has the advantage to provide low latency SIMD with floats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel platform is more interesting than AMD's due to the HPC support and ecosystem (both hardware and software)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10495" RevisionGUID="8645fbc6-ab21-43bb-a392-d99619480936" CreationDate="2019-01-23T17:07:27.987" UserId="10476" Text="For DL, everything happens in the GPU; the most important factors are amount of memory (the more the total GPU memory the more complex your models and better the results) and bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Subsequently I would drop definitely (5), and go for (3)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35371" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10497" RevisionGUID="d05631a6-041d-47c9-9b16-f1a41935f5e0" CreationDate="2019-01-24T13:36:59.863" UserId="5440" Text="Take a look at this:&#xA;&#xA;[**Foldable Keyboard, Jelly Comb B003S 3-in-1 (USB/Microusb/Type C) Wired &amp; BT Keyboard with Touchpad Compatible for All Devices Windows PC iOS Android Tablet-Black**][1]&#xA;&#xA;Seems to match everything (but does include Bluetooth as well.) &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2RO18uk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35374" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10489" RevisionGUID="4c538a65-3f02-48f4-a683-8ae0dda6bf2f" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:08:54.323" UserId="10305" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35375" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10489" RevisionGUID="4c538a65-3f02-48f4-a683-8ae0dda6bf2f" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:08:54.323" Comment="Proposed by 10305 approved by 57 edit id of 796" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9978" RevisionGUID="f3c15343-13d0-43a5-aaa6-36832ebc1ba2" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:09:06.213" UserId="3708" Comment="Add statement of affiliation (based on matching username and domain) - otherwise this post is spam" Text="Since you are going to upgrade your CPU, you should consider AMD. I don't know what problems you encountered in the past, but the latest Ryzen CPUs are well worth their price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had the same hesitation but I bought the 2700X to give it a try - paired with an x470 board. It's a beast, it can do rendering, streaming, gaming, all at the same time. I believe it's the most VFM option these days - hands down. And the best part is some new AMD technologies that allow the CPU to reach [it's maximum overclock abilities automatically, without tweaking a single setting.][1] (note: I am affilated with this site)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel has a bad availability these days, so prices have gone way high for their value. That said, a 8700K would also cover your needs - consider it being it the same as 2700X performance-wise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35377" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9978" RevisionGUID="f3c15343-13d0-43a5-aaa6-36832ebc1ba2" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:09:06.213" Comment="Proposed by 3708 approved by 57 edit id of 795" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10500" RevisionGUID="3f55e25b-437f-467d-b223-d24d00f24e22" CreationDate="2019-01-25T03:00:52.913" UserDisplayName="user10608" Text="Our primary computer is hooked up to the big-screen TV in our living room. It's used for a variety of purposes, including watching streaming services like Netflix, playing games, browsing the web, writing documents, and all those usual things one uses a computer for. We've had this arrangement for many years (probably over a decade, across several computers), and while some keyboards have worked well enough for what we do we've never really found a keyboard we've been thrilled with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(in rough order of priority)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Robust**&#xD;&#xA;    * We have five kids. We use the couch. The keyboard gets dropped, sat on, stepped on, and generally abused in every way one might imagine. While I expect we might need to replace it every few years, we shouldn't need to replace it every few months.&#xD;&#xA;* **A physical on-device power switch**&#xD;&#xA;    * We need to be able to turn off the keyboard when not in use. Otherwise, toddlers and cats will end up typing all over our documents.&#xD;&#xA;* **Compatible with Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA;* **Physical Navigation Keys**&#xD;&#xA;    * It should have arrow keys, PgUp, PgDown, Home, and End keys. They don't necessarily need to be in a standard location or orientation, but shouldn't require crazy Fn+Shift+whatever combinations in order to use.&#xD;&#xA;* **Wireless**&#xD;&#xA;    * It needs to reach at least 15 feet from the computer, and be reliable.&#xD;&#xA;    * The computer does have Bluetooth built in, so a keyboard that worked over Bluetooth would be better, all else being equal, if only because then it wouldn't take a USB slot with a dongle.&#xD;&#xA;    * In order to be reliable at this distance, even if it's not Bluetooth I'm assuming it would need to be 2.4 GHz. Though if there's another protocol or frequency I'm not familiar with that would work just as well, that'd be fine.&#xD;&#xA;    * Our current computer (an Intel [NUC6i7KYK][1]) only has 4 USB ports total, so minimizing use of them is kinda nice (though not required as we could get a USB hub we we need to). Most of our keyboard and mice have been using the Logitech Unifying system, which is rather nice. If whatever we ended up needed a USB dongle but either worked with that, or was a similar system that allowed for upgrading different peripherals over time, that would be a nice-to-have.&#xD;&#xA;    * It should connect fairly quickly once turned on. It's fairly common when using the computer with kids on our laps to turn it on for typing something quick, and then turn it back off.&#xD;&#xA;    * You may be surprised how low Wireless is down the list. Well, if there's a way to do it wired that we can snake the whole distance around the room and back of the couch, that's be okay too. I'm just assuming that wireless will be the easiest approach, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong.&#xD;&#xA;* **&quot;Handleable&quot;**&#xD;&#xA;    * I'm not sure what term exactly to use for this, but one needs to be able to set it down, pick it up, set it on one's lap, and use it comfortably. Some keyboards we've tried don't have much room to grip it by without hitting keys, or they don't rest easily on one's lap. It's often used at funny angles with children on our laps.&#xD;&#xA;* **US Standard QWERTY Layout**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **A light indicating Caps Lock**&#xD;&#xA;* **Available from Staples**&#xD;&#xA;    * I'm an employee of Staples, so obviously it's my first choice for this sort of thing, and I get a small discount if I buy from there.&#xD;&#xA;* **A neutral color**&#xD;&#xA;    * Your typical keyboard black or grey is fine. It'd be kind of odd if it were in bright colors.&#xD;&#xA;* **Full-sized layout**&#xD;&#xA;    * It's be nice if the keys aren't all squished and are their standard size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We'd prefer it to be under $50 (US), though would be willing to spend more if there was enough evidence that it would last for a significant length of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What we've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The low-end Logitech models, such as the [MK270][2]. This is what we've been happiest with in the past, except that the current models don't look to work with the Logitech Unifying system (Even though I'm fairly sure that their prior versions did.) They're surprisingly robust (or at least the models we got a several years ago were), and work even once several corners are chipped off.&#xD;&#xA;* The Logitech [K360][3]. We've been really happy with these functionality-wise in terms of being &quot;handleable&quot;, in that it's easy to grab and use. The main problem is that we've broken two in the past year, so they just aren't robust enough. In particular, their power switch seems prone to breaking and being stuck on (so that even when you switch it to Off, the keyboard is still actually On).&#xD;&#xA;* The Logitech [K375s][4]. We just purchased this, as I wanted to try out a Bluetooth keyboard, but we're just really unhappy with it. It's hard to grasp the bottom to use it with the edge tapered down there. It also just feels light and flimsy, though we'd probably just get used to that eventually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Other keyboards we've researched:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ones that are designed to be &quot;Media&quot; couch keyboards, like the [Microsoft All-in-One Media Wireless Keyboard][5] or the [Logitech K400][6]. In fact, we really like how the Microsoft one specifically claims to be durable. But they don't have the physical navigation keys, and the touchpad just seems superfluous. While we'd probably use it on occasion if we had one, we're pretty happy with using the mouse on the armrest of the couch. Often when browsing the web a mouse is really all that's needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/boards-kits/nuc/nuc-kit-nuc6i7kyk-features-configurations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/11052?crid=1759&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/keyboard-k360?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k375s-multidevice-keyboard?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.staples.com/Microsoft-All-in-One-Media-Keyboard-USB-Wireless-Media-keyboard-Black-N9Z-00001/product_1020301&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400r?crid=27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35392" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10500" RevisionGUID="3f55e25b-437f-467d-b223-d24d00f24e22" CreationDate="2019-01-25T03:00:52.913" UserDisplayName="user10608" Text="Robust keyboard for using on the couch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35393" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10500" RevisionGUID="3f55e25b-437f-467d-b223-d24d00f24e22" CreationDate="2019-01-25T03:00:52.913" UserDisplayName="user10608" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;htpc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10503" RevisionGUID="8eb4cd72-a009-4172-863b-7c983e757f59" CreationDate="2019-01-25T10:30:05.410" UserId="10613" Text="I have a 2012 MacBook Pro ([this model](https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.6-15-mid-2012-unibody-usb3-specs.html#macspecs1)) and I have also inherited two Dell U2515h displays, which understand DisplayPort 1.2 (but not Thunderbolt). I'd like to use the laptop (running OSX High Sierra) to drive both displays (independently, not mirrored).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop has a single mini DisplayPort/Thunderbolt socket and an NVidia GeForce 650M which [supports DisplayPort 1.2](https://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GT-650M.71887.0.html). Under OSX this can apparently be used to daisy-chain Thunderbolt displays but not DisplayPort displays (c.f. [this thread](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4740489) about comparable hardware), whereas under Windows 7/8 on Bootcamp, daisy-chaining does work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any dock or adapter that will take a Thunderbolt MST connection from the laptop and turn it into two different DisplayPort streams for the monitors? Everything I've found seems to come with a warning that it won't solve the problem if I'm running OSX.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35401" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10503" RevisionGUID="8eb4cd72-a009-4172-863b-7c983e757f59" CreationDate="2019-01-25T10:30:05.410" UserId="10613" Text="MacBook Pro 2012 Thunderbolt-to-dual-Displayport Adapter?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35402" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10503" RevisionGUID="8eb4cd72-a009-4172-863b-7c983e757f59" CreationDate="2019-01-25T10:30:05.410" UserId="10613" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35403" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="4573b674-0a8e-4cda-b492-0eef429f15da" CreationDate="2019-01-25T13:02:35.520" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35408" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="10435" RevisionGUID="1a888115-4b7c-41a2-9927-33ef8bdc0ddc" CreationDate="2019-01-25T16:51:18.893" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10511" RevisionGUID="12c48a21-c502-42f9-89c0-f4c461fd56ab" CreationDate="2019-01-26T22:56:52.847" UserId="10626" Text="I'm looking for a replacement to the noisy fans for a server 2U chassis. The front of the chassis is filled with the hard disks, which means that there is little space for air flow, which, in turn, means that I need fans with high static pressure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The original fans have the following specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Rated current: 0.60 A.&#xD;&#xA; - Fan speed: 7,000 RPM.&#xD;&#xA; - Air flow: 72.5 CFM.&#xD;&#xA; - Static pressure: 27.69 mm/H₂O.&#xD;&#xA; - Noise: 53.5 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server will be heavily underused (storage only; CPU usage will remain relatively low), which means that the replacement fans can have one third the original static pressure value or ideally up to a half. So the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Size between 80×80×25 and 80×80×38.&#xD;&#xA; - Static pressure superior to 10 mm/H₂O (or to 15 mm/H₂O).&#xD;&#xA; - Noise level inferior to 35 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA; - Price inferior to $40.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generic fans such as [Noctua NF-A8 PWM][1] cannot be used. While the air flow is not bad (32.7 CFM), the static pressure is too low (2.37 mm/H₂O).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is [Silverstone FM81][2] which has an acceptable static pressure of 13.78 mm/H₂O, but it's also noisy at 48.0 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a8-pwm/specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?pid=122&amp;model=FM81" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35439" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10511" RevisionGUID="12c48a21-c502-42f9-89c0-f4c461fd56ab" CreationDate="2019-01-26T22:56:52.847" UserId="10626" Text="Are there quiet fans with high static pressure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35440" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10511" RevisionGUID="12c48a21-c502-42f9-89c0-f4c461fd56ab" CreationDate="2019-01-26T22:56:52.847" UserId="10626" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35441" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10511" RevisionGUID="327d8e34-f3e7-4823-8d26-13e1ccbb83c8" CreationDate="2019-01-26T23:10:20.930" UserId="10626" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a replacement to the noisy fans for a server 2U chassis. The front of the chassis is filled with the hard disks, which means that there is little space for air flow, which, in turn, means that I need fans with high static pressure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The original fans have the following specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Rated current: 0.60 A.&#xD;&#xA; - Fan speed: 7,000 RPM.&#xD;&#xA; - Air flow: 72.5 CFM.&#xD;&#xA; - Static pressure: 27.69 mm/H₂O.&#xD;&#xA; - Noise: 53.5 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server will be heavily underused (storage only; CPU usage will remain relatively low), which means that the replacement fans can have one third the original static pressure value or ideally up to a half. So the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PWM (4-pin).&#xD;&#xA; - Size between 80×80×25 and 80×80×38.&#xD;&#xA; - Static pressure superior to 10 mm/H₂O (or to 15 mm/H₂O).&#xD;&#xA; - Noise level inferior to 35 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA; - Price inferior to $40.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generic fans such as [Noctua NF-A8 PWM][1] cannot be used. While the air flow is not bad (32.7 CFM), the static pressure is too low (2.37 mm/H₂O).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is [Silverstone FM81][2] which has an acceptable static pressure of 13.78 mm/H₂O, but it's also noisy at 48.0 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a8-pwm/specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?pid=122&amp;model=FM81" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35447" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10463" RevisionGUID="dd11e594-d1c9-4513-a740-2484413abf31" CreationDate="2019-01-27T03:54:11.990" UserId="10570" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="Looking for recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;I'm a full stack engineer. I work with visual studio, some database tools, visual studio code and lots of other tools, but none are graphic intensive. I'm passed the video gaming phase so gaming laptops might not be the best option for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * budget: up to $1600&#xD;&#xA; * i7 8th generation&#xD;&#xA; * 16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; * SSD 250~500&#xD;&#xA; * light weight and ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; * comfortable keyboard with backlight (plus if mechanical)&#xD;&#xA; * decent battery life 4&#xD;&#xA; * Full HD display 14”&#xD;&#xA; * Quiet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35448" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10512" RevisionGUID="bd6b25cb-7f99-4f2c-ac4f-afd84fd0c8bf" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:23:27.393" UserId="10628" Text="I'm looking for an Intel CPU with higher core and suitable for programming.&#xD;&#xA;Please advise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35449" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10512" RevisionGUID="bd6b25cb-7f99-4f2c-ac4f-afd84fd0c8bf" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:23:27.393" UserId="10628" Text="What's the intel cpu for consumer with best value?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35450" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10512" RevisionGUID="bd6b25cb-7f99-4f2c-ac4f-afd84fd0c8bf" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:23:27.393" UserId="10628" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10513" RevisionGUID="94a185fb-c903-47ab-bce4-c6050122bbb6" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:24:48.573" UserDisplayName="user10629" Text="I happen to have just built a new PC with Intel i9-9900K&#xD;&#xA;it has 8 core and 16 thread for $700 CAD.&#xD;&#xA;I think it's best for the buck if you are looking for higher core counts and thread counts as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35452" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10514" RevisionGUID="b9efb2bd-c450-4590-b7a2-e30dd6712c02" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:40:13.603" UserId="10628" Text="I would recomment &#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG Zephyrus M GM501 (GM501GS-XS74) 15.6&quot; Ultra Slim Gaming Laptop, 144 Hz IPS-Type G-SYNC Panel, GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB, Intel Core i7-8750H (Up to 3.9 GHz), 256 GB PCIe SSD + 1 TB SSHD, 16 GB DDR4 2666 MHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quality build from Asus.. now $200 off from newegg.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234953&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;source=region&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwordsCA-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwordsCA-PC-_-pla-_-Gaming+Laptops-_-N82E16834234953&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAp7DiBRDdARIsABIMfoAgmpx2wmF5EPC8j6KoHrnBqUPUxA6Vo_g013bnOOFn-G2b7wooDEQaAirjEALw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35453" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10515" RevisionGUID="9d261a48-c070-4e29-be69-fae395d9c22a" CreationDate="2019-01-27T06:44:23.463" UserId="10628" Text="Have you tried Noctua NH-C14S? Low profile with 140mm fan&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Noctua NH-C14S, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A14 PWM 140mm Fan (Brown)&#xD;&#xA;FAN Specification&#xD;&#xA;Model 1x Noctua NF-A14 PWM&#xD;&#xA;Bearing SSO2&#xD;&#xA;Max. rotational speed (+/- 10%) 1500 RPM&#xD;&#xA;Max. rotational speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1200 RPM&#xD;&#xA;Min. rotational speed (PWM, +/-20%) 300 RPM&#xD;&#xA;Max. airflow 140,2 m³/h&#xD;&#xA;Max. airflow with L.N.A. 115,5 m³/h&#xD;&#xA;Max. acoustical noise 24,6 dB(A)&#xD;&#xA;Max. acoustical noise with L.N.A. 19,2 dB(A)&#xD;&#xA;Input power 1,56 W&#xD;&#xA;Voltage range 12 V&#xD;&#xA;MTTF &gt; 150.000 h" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35461" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10512" RevisionGUID="7b1b57a6-e781-4214-bf5f-6cec54a0f6a1" CreationDate="2019-01-27T17:18:38.457" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10515" RevisionGUID="d02ac498-22e9-4e21-8d20-82c720410068" CreationDate="2019-01-27T19:48:04.063" UserId="10626" Comment="Fixed formatting." Text="Have you tried Noctua NH-C14S low profile with 140mm fan:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Noctua NH-C14S, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A14 PWM 140mm Fan**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FAN specification:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Model 1x Noctua NF-A14 PWM.&#xD;&#xA; - Bearing SSO2.&#xD;&#xA; - Max. rotational speed (+/- 10%) 1500 RPM.&#xD;&#xA; - Max. rotational speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1200 RPM.&#xD;&#xA; - Min. rotational speed (PWM, +/-20%) 300 RPM.&#xD;&#xA; - Max. airflow 140,2 m³/h.&#xD;&#xA; - Max. airflow with L.N.A. 115,5 m³/h.&#xD;&#xA; - Max. acoustical noise 24,6 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA; - Max. acoustical noise with L.N.A. 19,2 dB(A).&#xD;&#xA; - Input power 1,56 W.&#xD;&#xA; - Voltage range 12 V.&#xD;&#xA; - MTTF &gt; 150.000 h." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35463" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10515" RevisionGUID="d02ac498-22e9-4e21-8d20-82c720410068" CreationDate="2019-01-27T19:48:04.063" Comment="Proposed by 10626 approved by 8 edit id of 798" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10521" RevisionGUID="3f651dca-331f-428f-a721-46025a19e2da" CreationDate="2019-01-27T21:18:17.263" UserId="4719" Text="My goal is to obtain a productivity setup with quad (four) monitor setup that can handle 3 1440p monitors, and 1 4k monitor for movies (no gaming on that specific monitor). Would 1070ti be enough or do I need another better GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I understand for good quality I will use display port and HDMI 2.0 or higher port. Any CPU, Ram size recommendations? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35471" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10521" RevisionGUID="3f651dca-331f-428f-a721-46025a19e2da" CreationDate="2019-01-27T21:18:17.263" UserId="4719" Text="Recommended GPU for watching movies on 4k or 1440p quad monitor setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35472" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10521" RevisionGUID="3f651dca-331f-428f-a721-46025a19e2da" CreationDate="2019-01-27T21:18:17.263" UserId="4719" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10524" RevisionGUID="d81d0cfa-ae40-432a-aa72-aaf049e7b550" CreationDate="2019-01-28T13:16:20.530" UserId="10637" Text="I need a new laptop. I am not considering building a desktop. I work with 3D modeling of furniture/ambients and rendering software such as sketchup/vray and I need mobility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I invest in a notebook that offers **older processor and the latest GPU** or the opposite **latest processor with an older GPU** ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lets assume I dont care about HDD and both options have at least 8GB RAM for the Operating System.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(i.e.: i7-6700HQ + GTX1080 ***or***    i7-8750H + GTX 1050)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35481" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10524" RevisionGUID="d81d0cfa-ae40-432a-aa72-aaf049e7b550" CreationDate="2019-01-28T13:16:20.530" UserId="10637" Text="Should I go for better processor or better GPU for graphics rendering?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35482" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10524" RevisionGUID="d81d0cfa-ae40-432a-aa72-aaf049e7b550" CreationDate="2019-01-28T13:16:20.530" UserId="10637" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10525" RevisionGUID="e54fa208-2aac-48dc-b4ac-fbdb7283c5a8" CreationDate="2019-01-28T14:21:49.743" UserId="4896" Text="As a general rule, I'd recommend having a GPU of the same calibre and age as your CPU. And given your needs, this may well suit you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not an expert in all this graphical stuff, but AFAIK most modellers (inc SketchUp) tend to need to do linear calculations and thus are usually restricted to a single core, so the speed of an individual core is key - so get a good CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whereas renderers like VRay usually use CUDA on the GPU, so perhaps you should prioritise your GPU? VRay and some other renderers can supplement/help their GPU using the CPU, so spare CPU cores may be useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in short, get the best CPU &amp; GPU there is! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bit impractical if you are budget-limited? Of course, so have 3 options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Prioritise Modelling (CPU)&#xD;&#xA; 2. Prioritise Rendering (GPU)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Or hedge your bets with a balanced config - comparable CPU &amp; GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So which do you do most of?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back to your sample configs, it is worth noting that the performance gap between the i7 6700HQ and the 8750H is approx 40% (based on user benchmarks). The gap between the 1050 and the 180 however is about 250%. If you want to adopt my balanced recommendation, you'd pair the 6700HQ with a GTX1060 or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9462" RevisionGUID="1019b82b-21a9-4710-a39c-7281e3c316a8" CreationDate="2019-01-29T04:54:34.933" UserId="5792" Comment="Updated to include Keychron K1, more visual matrix, and Google Sheets version" Text="### tl;dr ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm searching for a keyboard with the following specs, in order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cherry Brown switches&#xD;&#xA; 2. Mac keys (&lt;kbd&gt;⌃ control&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌥ option&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;⌘ command&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Durable, [easy-to-clean](https://i.imgur.com/BYAOg19.jpg) construction&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1st- or 2nd-party drivers for macOS High Sierra, 3rd-party ones proven reliable over many years&#xD;&#xA; 5. Number pad&#xD;&#xA; 6. Programmable RGB backlighting&#xD;&#xA; 7. Built-in USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it were less than $200, but I might be able to stomach more expensive ones if they're much better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Rationalle / Backstory ###&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I work on a Mac, professionally. The silicone-dome keyboards Apple makes have really gotten under my skin. At home, I use a **Corsair K70 RGB** with **Cherry Browns** for coding, gaming, and writing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last few weeks I've swapped these, and used the mechanical one at work. After fiddling with 3rd-party drivers I eventually got it to work similar to how it does at home and I love it. I love the satisfying feel of the switches, the lower actuation force, my color scheme making it easier for me to find things at a glance, the durable metal construction, the switches being above the board for easier cleaning, the whole shebang.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are downsides, though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The backlighting can't be customized when working with macOS without using a 3rd-party driver, and it's a bit crashy.&#xD;&#xA; - It uses the Windows modifier key layout (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;❖&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;), which gets quite confusing when figuring out a keyboard shortcut. Even when mapped, the key sizes don't feel right when used on macOS. Additionally, there's no &lt;kbd&gt;fn&lt;/kbd&gt; key or brightness buttons so I had to try to map those appropriately.&#xD;&#xA; - No USB hub means I have to unplug the keyboard or an external drive to charge my mouse/trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An ideal solution would address all these as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Candidates so far ###&#xD;&#xA;[![A matrix of the candidates, where K70 is the tentative winner with 71%][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;([live-updating spreadsheet](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTxdKzqti9apGgDRgkAVRWeal_bdix2IFRA88CKmQgGS0h6QYXBflbJkq3qV6T3kr1jMJzyPmVWg10m/pubhtml?gid=0&amp;single=true))&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ef4HM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10529" RevisionGUID="9d3ad37b-c154-486c-8c02-6e9a5db571c7" CreationDate="2019-01-29T14:19:16.627" UserId="10344" Text="I will have 20-30 docker containers each running debian, and a chrome browser running in each of those. Each browser will be playing online slot games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current computer doesn't have a good graphics card or processor: Intel® Core™2 Duo processor T6670 clock speed 2.20 GHz, Mobile Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 4500MHD (http://www.toshiba.co.uk/discontinued-products/satellite-pro-c660-16x/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just loading a slot machine (or even the william hill homepage) in one chrome browser uses about 40% cpu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need more cpu or more gpu or both? (gpu for all the animations etc but cpu needed because of multiple docker containers and chrome instances?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10529" RevisionGUID="9d3ad37b-c154-486c-8c02-6e9a5db571c7" CreationDate="2019-01-29T14:19:16.627" UserId="10344" Text="GPU and CPU needed for multiple chrome browsers running online 2d games" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10529" RevisionGUID="9d3ad37b-c154-486c-8c02-6e9a5db571c7" CreationDate="2019-01-29T14:19:16.627" UserId="10344" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10531" RevisionGUID="2c02c9c0-f628-41f5-a251-5d80969fbc2e" CreationDate="2019-01-29T18:07:49.033" UserId="10648" Text="Specifically answering for Nvidia GPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A GTX 1070ti will have no problem at all running 3 2560x1440 monitors and 1 4K for video and desktop computing as long as you are using the correct display outputs and monitors that support HDMI 2.0, DVI-D, or Displayport.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should theoretically be able to run 4 4K screens off of any 10XX, or 20XX series card, or a higher end 9XX series as these nvidia architectures all support 4 displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest of the hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU and RAM usage typically goes up as you have more applications open to fill the 4 screens, this will vary greatly depending on what those applications are though. If you update your question with specifically what applications you are using, then I can give a recommendation suited to your workload. Otherwise, any quad core CPU from the recent AMD or Intel series and at least 8GB of RAM will likely be sufficient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10531" RevisionGUID="8bc01c69-285c-4322-86dd-e7c0c253be85" CreationDate="2019-01-29T18:19:28.820" UserId="10648" Comment="added 374 characters in body" Text="Specifically answering for Nvidia GPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A GTX 1070ti will have no problem at all running 3 2560x1440 monitors and 1 4K for video and desktop computing as long as you are using the correct display outputs and monitors that support HDMI 2.0, DVI-D, or Displayport.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should theoretically be able to run 4 4K screens off of any 10XX, or 20XX series card, or a higher end 9XX series as these nvidia architectures all support 4 displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the rest of the hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU and RAM usage typically goes up as you have more applications open to fill the 4 screens, this will vary greatly depending on what those applications are though. If you update your question with specifically what applications you are using, then I can give a recommendation suited to your workload. Otherwise, any quad core CPU from the recent AMD or Intel series and at least 8GB of RAM will likely be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:  &#xD;&#xA;One more thing that I should mention is regarding 4K video playback. It is possible that some applications or browsers could ignore the video decoding features of your GPU and work the CPU very hard to decode the 4K video. In those cases it's best to have as fast of a CPU as possible. This is likely only going to show up with outdated applications or drivers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35514" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10529" RevisionGUID="27babc10-e1d7-4b94-ae60-4a32723a9785" CreationDate="2019-01-29T20:34:28.570" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10529" RevisionGUID="2dac3c2c-7ac4-4211-8700-6b81ebd43e71" CreationDate="2019-01-30T12:30:19.287" UserId="10344" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I will have 20-30 docker containers each running debian, and a chrome browser running in each of those. Each browser will be playing online slot games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current computer doesn't have a good graphics card or processor: Intel® Core™2 Duo processor T6670 clock speed 2.20 GHz, Mobile Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 4500MHD (http://www.toshiba.co.uk/discontinued-products/satellite-pro-c660-16x/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just loading a slot machine (or even the william hill homepage) in one chrome browser uses about 40% cpu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to buy a new computer for this. Do I need more cpu or more gpu or both? (gpu for all the animations etc but cpu needed because of multiple docker containers and chrome instances?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10537" RevisionGUID="4fbcfdd0-9be4-4871-a881-c8c33d790acc" CreationDate="2019-01-30T18:27:06.440" UserId="3667" Text="I have been facing this question many times when making backups for home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to understand what is the best way to store data for the long-term (i.e.: 50 years). The requirements of the support are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Should be small enough to fit into a closet;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Should be relatively cheap (no exotic tachnology);&#xD;&#xA; 3. Should be possible to encrypt (e.g.: veracrypt/truecrypt file container);&#xD;&#xA; 4. Should not perish (e.g.: optical drives sometimes tend to detatch the metallic part impressed by the laser from the plastic support);&#xD;&#xA; 5. Should be physical (i.e.: no cloud);&#xD;&#xA; 6. Does not need to be rewritable (I like to make &quot;snapshots&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming that in 50 years somehow there will still be the technology to access any support available today to memorize data, what is the best way to store it, given the requirements listed above?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35532" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10537" RevisionGUID="4fbcfdd0-9be4-4871-a881-c8c33d790acc" CreationDate="2019-01-30T18:27:06.440" UserId="3667" Text="What is the best support to store data long-term?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35533" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10537" RevisionGUID="4fbcfdd0-9be4-4871-a881-c8c33d790acc" CreationDate="2019-01-30T18:27:06.440" UserId="3667" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35537" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10539" RevisionGUID="6109f861-921d-49fb-9ce6-f41663a503cc" CreationDate="2019-01-30T21:11:24.073" UserId="10532" Text="*Answering my own question*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First I tried the [iiyama ProLite XUB2395WSU-B1](https://iiyama.com/gb_en/products/prolite-xub2395wsu-b1/) as I was happy with iiyama before.  &#xD;&#xA;I didn't keep it for long as:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. the reported max height of 385mm is actually 410mm  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. 1920x1200 is too many pixels to fit into a 22&quot;/22.5&quot; screen  &#xD;&#xA;While it is possible to adjust the font sizes of Operating System display fonts, with such a small pixel size (unless you have the eyes of a hawk) you might well need add-ons/extensions for your browser(s) to increase the font size of every web page.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I tried the [Dell U2412M](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-24-monitor-u2412m/apd/210-agss/monitors-monitor-accessories) as suggested by [Bennett Yeo](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/6047/bennett-yeo) in the comments to my question.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first one I purchased had a strong colour cast across the screen: pink/yellow on the left ranging to green/blue on the right. I sent it back and ordered one from another source. And this one I've kept.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;White isn't perfectly white, as suggested in some other reviews. But, colours are consistent over the screen and, if I'd had the iiyama, I would probably have activated the 'reduced blue' mode and ended up with exactly the same result. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24&quot; diagonal is right for a 1920x1200 screen: I increased the OS display fonts by 1pt; web pages are comfortable to read without adjustment.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The on/standby light is integral with the on/off button and is a completely unobtrusive gentle orange/blue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system for adjusting screen settings is the best I've ever seen. Four blank mechanical buttons on the right (above the on/off). Pressing any button activates the menu. Each option in the menu is adjacent to the button which activates it. Brilliant. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the screen on 'text mode', with brightness adjusted down (20) and contrast adjusted up (80). And for me that gives a very comfortable display.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The extra screen 'real-estate' -- 1920x1200 in 24&quot; vs 1650x1080 in 22&quot; -- is a pleasure, as I get more vertical text space for viewing/editing code, and more space overall for editing graphics.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At its lowest, the top edge of the screen is 410mm above the desk, and the bezel adds another 20mm.  &#xD;&#xA;I would prefer it lower and, if I purchase another stand to achieve this, I shall post an update to this answer.  &#xD;&#xA;NB, if you're thinking of doing the same, the stand attachment area is recessed into the back of the monitor by about 6mm. Which does make attaching/detaching the original stand very easy, but does mean that the Wearson WS-03A Adjustable LCD Monitor Stand that I was thinking of using won't work on its own as it has a 'lip' at the bottom of the attachment plate. It is possible to purchase spacer kits, or simply another stand which fits inside the recess. And remember to check the size of monitor it will hold, quite a few are only only recommended for up to 22&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm currently looking at  &#xD;&#xA;[Wearson WS-03A Adjustable LCD Monitor Stand](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wearson-WS-03A-Adjustable-Monitor-100x100mm/dp/B00XUF2GBI/)  &#xD;&#xA;plus  &#xD;&#xA;[Part King® Vesa Bolt / Screw / Washer / Spacer Kit](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0779C4G8J/ref=asc_df_B0779C4G8J58142109/)  &#xD;&#xA;or  &#xD;&#xA;[Wearson WS-03UP VESA Monitor Stand](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wearson-WS-03UP-Adjustable-Detachable-100x100mm/dp/B077WPY471/) on its own.  &#xD;&#xA;or...  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35544" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10540" RevisionGUID="a2b76a52-f250-4adc-b7ae-4372b8164f38" CreationDate="2019-01-31T05:59:09.923" UserId="10660" Text="What is a good CUDA enabled controller for an autonomous mining vehicle? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be vibration resistant, atleast IP67, have 4 CAN ports, and 1 ethernet port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using python / ROS for vision, sensor fusion, SLAM etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35545" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10540" RevisionGUID="a2b76a52-f250-4adc-b7ae-4372b8164f38" CreationDate="2019-01-31T05:59:09.923" UserId="10660" Text="Controller for Autonomous Mining Vehicle" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35546" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10540" RevisionGUID="a2b76a52-f250-4adc-b7ae-4372b8164f38" CreationDate="2019-01-31T05:59:09.923" UserId="10660" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10542" RevisionGUID="4c4e0a1e-ca14-40a1-8413-4a908f4196b3" CreationDate="2019-01-31T06:33:24.223" UserId="10659" Text="I need to choose hardware for an OpenCV project that I am working on currently.  Space is limited hence I cannot use a full blown computer.  The project specs are listed below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Using two USB 3.0 high speed Basler cameras running at 300 fps each (300 megs/sec each.)  The video shot is between 1 to 1.5 seconds at a time.  &#xD;&#xA; 2. I am using the LBP (local binary patterns) OpenCV library to detect objects in the video.&#xD;&#xA; 3. The video processing should be real-time or as close to real-time as possible - a lag of up to 2 seconds between the video end and result extraction is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA; 4. The cameras are used for two different tasks, obtaining the angle of an object moving in parallel to a camera and its proximity to the cameras - hence the need for stereoscopic vision.&#xD;&#xA; 5. To minimize the data quantity, basler offers me the ability to skip frames, which I have done.  My project works if I only use every 4th frame. Hence I only need to process 225 frames at most.  More optimization is possible by cutting the duration of the video to below 1 second.&#xD;&#xA; 6. The hardware needs to support Linux - my OS of choice&#xD;&#xA; 7. Ideally I would like the OS loaded from an SD card&#xD;&#xA; 8. The hardware needs to have 2 USB 3.0 slots&#xD;&#xA; 9. HDMI or VGA output is needed.&#xD;&#xA; 10. The hardware should not be any bigger than 8&quot; x 8&quot; x 3&quot;&#xD;&#xA; 11. Internet via (RJ-45) &#xD;&#xA; 12. Price should be around $500 - $1000 &#xD;&#xA; 13. Memory - ideally at least 4GB&#xD;&#xA; 14. CUDA hardware acceleration or similar would be very nice&#xD;&#xA; 15. Power - no restriction - city grid&#xD;&#xA; 16. Needs to interface with a SSD drive as well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have looked at an Intel NUC and a Nvidia JetsonTX2.  Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35551" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10542" RevisionGUID="4c4e0a1e-ca14-40a1-8413-4a908f4196b3" CreationDate="2019-01-31T06:33:24.223" UserId="10659" Text="Hardware selection recommendations for a embedded like OpenCV project" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35552" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10542" RevisionGUID="4c4e0a1e-ca14-40a1-8413-4a908f4196b3" CreationDate="2019-01-31T06:33:24.223" UserId="10659" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10543" RevisionGUID="8913b254-0f81-43bc-82a4-890627b1638a" CreationDate="2019-01-31T07:14:27.663" UserId="4786" Text="Recently, my brother has decided to go into Video Editing and Special Effects. He currently has a a laptop, with a Core i5-7300HQ, A GTX 1050 4GB, 8GB DDR3 and a 1 TB HDD. Now. while these specs are pretty decent for a mid range gaming laptop, I don't think it will cut it for using software like Premiere Pro and After Effects, as well as Final Cut Pro X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what he tells me, he says that the projects he is going to be working on will be &quot;large&quot; and &quot;graphics intensive&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I've decided to build him a desktop workstation with a budget of around $1000 USD. I've managed to source a Workstation (Brand new) with the following specifications -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Xeon E5-1660 6C/12T CPU @ 3.30 GHz  &#xD;&#xA; 2. 32GB DDR3-1600MHz Non-ECC RAM in&#xD;&#xA;        Quad Channel (4x8GB Sticks)&#xD;&#xA; 3. Nvidia Quadro 2000 Graphics (I'm&#xD;&#xA;        assuming this is a K2000 or something along those lines)&#xD;&#xA; 4. A 425W PSU (Apparently 80+ Rated Platinum)&#xD;&#xA; 5. 1 TB Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I've already made up my mind about the PSU and the Storage situation in this rig, as it stands. The PSU I am definitely throwing out, and swapping in with more rated output to support more recent PCI Cards. As for storage, I'm going to throw in a cheap 512 GB SATA SSD into the mix, as a boot drive as well as a dumping drive for all important projects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This Workstation takes up $400 of my budget (including shipping). The PSU I want to swap in will cost around $100 shipped, and the SSD will cost around $100 as well, so I am already $600 USD deep into this video editing rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now onto the question at hand, with the remaining budget at hand, I've narrowed my GPU options down to 3 potential candidates, namely the GTX 1070 8GB from Gigabyte, the Sapphire R9 Nano, and the Strix R9 Fury (NON-X). All of these graphics cards come in at the $400 mark, so price isn't an issue here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not too clued up on the ins and outs of video editing and special effects, so I am not sure what features to look out for when selecting a card for this type of use case. But from what I can tell by reading online forum threads, like on Reddit and Tom's Hardware, the AMD Cards suffer a lot when using these programs, as the OpenCL Support just isn't there, as opposed to the OpenCL Support on the GTX 10X Series. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I am wrong, and that I have been reading rubbish.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is this, out of the three GPUs listed above, which is the best GPU to get for this use case and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have any other GPU recommendations, please don't hesitate to suggest them, any help would greatly be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As always, thanks for viewing!    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10543" RevisionGUID="8913b254-0f81-43bc-82a4-890627b1638a" CreationDate="2019-01-31T07:14:27.663" UserId="4786" Text="GTX 1070 vs R9 Fury vs R9 Nano for Premiere Pro and After Effects?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10543" RevisionGUID="8913b254-0f81-43bc-82a4-890627b1638a" CreationDate="2019-01-31T07:14:27.663" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10539" RevisionGUID="9ff51bf5-fc59-41f3-af33-0746d52dc96c" CreationDate="2019-01-31T13:28:48.963" UserId="10532" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text="*Answering my own question (it was solved by [Bennett Yeo](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/6047/bennett-yeo) in the comments to my question)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First I tried the [iiyama ProLite XUB2395WSU-B1](https://iiyama.com/gb_en/products/prolite-xub2395wsu-b1/) as I was happy with iiyama before.  &#xD;&#xA;I didn't keep it for long as:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. the reported max height of 385mm is actually 410mm  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. 1920x1200 is too many pixels to fit into a 22&quot;/22.5&quot; screen  &#xD;&#xA;While it is possible to adjust the font sizes of Operating System display fonts, with such a small pixel size (unless you have the eyes of a hawk) you might well need add-ons/extensions for your browser(s) to increase the font size of every web page.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I tried the [Dell U2412M](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-24-monitor-u2412m/apd/210-agss/monitors-monitor-accessories) as suggested by [Bennett Yeo](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/6047/bennett-yeo) in the comments to my question.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first one I purchased had a strong colour cast across the screen: pink/yellow on the left ranging to green/blue on the right. I sent it back and ordered one from another source. And this one I've kept.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;White isn't perfectly white, as suggested in some other reviews. But, colours are consistent over the screen and, if I'd had the iiyama, I would probably have activated the 'reduced blue' mode and ended up with exactly the same result. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;24&quot; diagonal is right for a 1920x1200 screen: I increased the OS display fonts by 1pt; web pages are comfortable to read without adjustment.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The on/standby light is integral with the on/off button and is a completely unobtrusive gentle orange/blue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system for adjusting screen settings is the best I've ever seen. Four blank mechanical buttons on the right (above the on/off). Pressing any button activates the menu. Each option in the menu is adjacent to the button which activates it. Brilliant. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the screen on 'text mode', with brightness adjusted down (20) and contrast adjusted up (80). And for me that gives a very comfortable display.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The extra screen 'real-estate' -- 1920x1200 in 24&quot; vs 1650x1080 in 22&quot; -- is a pleasure, as I get more vertical text space for viewing/editing code, and more space overall for editing graphics.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At its lowest, the top edge of the screen is 410mm above the desk, and the bezel adds another 20mm.  &#xD;&#xA;I would prefer it lower and, if I purchase another stand to achieve this, I shall post an update to this answer.  &#xD;&#xA;NB, if you're thinking of doing the same, the stand attachment area is recessed into the back of the monitor by about 6mm. Which does make attaching/detaching the original stand very easy, but does mean that the Wearson WS-03A Adjustable LCD Monitor Stand that I was thinking of using won't work on its own as it has a 'lip' at the bottom of the attachment plate. It is possible to purchase spacer kits, or simply another stand which fits inside the recess. And remember to check the size of monitor it will hold, quite a few are only only recommended for up to 22&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm currently looking at  &#xD;&#xA;[Wearson WS-03A Adjustable LCD Monitor Stand](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wearson-WS-03A-Adjustable-Monitor-100x100mm/dp/B00XUF2GBI/)  &#xD;&#xA;plus  &#xD;&#xA;[Part King® Vesa Bolt / Screw / Washer / Spacer Kit](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0779C4G8J/ref=asc_df_B0779C4G8J58142109/)  &#xD;&#xA;or  &#xD;&#xA;[Wearson WS-03UP VESA Monitor Stand](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wearson-WS-03UP-Adjustable-Detachable-100x100mm/dp/B077WPY471/) on its own.  &#xD;&#xA;or...  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10547" RevisionGUID="e8f14d01-1819-406e-a907-a22fe1927292" CreationDate="2019-01-31T14:02:20.833" UserId="2480" Text="I am not sure if you will get all the listed requirements, usually if you want something cheap you will sacrifice elsewhere.  That being said, you should look at 'MDisc' as a backup medium, also 'magnetic tapes' would also be worth looking into as an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[TechTarget.com][1] - did a write-up on some of the options for cold storage backups - [Demand for cold data storage heats up][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This image from the article provided a good comparison between some of the different options.&#xD;&#xA;[![cold storage media comparison][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techtarget.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://searchstorage.techtarget.com/feature/No-data-left-behind-Demand-for-cold-data-storage-heats-up&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/jY7XI.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="5f1980c2-ca32-4508-bf8f-2b7c7e2efa56" CreationDate="2019-01-31T21:26:29.913" UserId="10664" Text="My GPU has gone to GPU heaven so now I have an excuse to make an upgrade of my what-once-was-a-gaming-PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 @ 3.00GHz&#xD;&#xA;MB: ASUS H-81 Plus&#xD;&#xA;GPU: GeForce GTX 560 Ti [DEAD]&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to replace GPU with RXT2060. I do realize that CPU/MB will become a bottleneck and I plan to upgrade it to i7 at some point. However, I would prefer to do it once step at a time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##The question is:&#xD;&#xA;###- How much my PC's gaming performance will degrade due to old CPU? &#xD;&#xA;###- Does this setup make sense or should I delay buying GPU until I'm ready to upgrade CPU/MB?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance for your answers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="5f1980c2-ca32-4508-bf8f-2b7c7e2efa56" CreationDate="2019-01-31T21:26:29.913" UserId="10664" Text="RTX2060 and i5-4430 - does this combination make sense?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35586" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="5f1980c2-ca32-4508-bf8f-2b7c7e2efa56" CreationDate="2019-01-31T21:26:29.913" UserId="10664" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10554" RevisionGUID="ed0680d9-c062-4e43-ab1f-cd1eba92e22c" CreationDate="2019-02-01T11:38:13.177" UserId="10144" Text="After some reconsideration, prompted by the responses above, I went with 64GiB with no space to upgrade, which really does seem more than enough, even in long term. (It's not &quot;for bragging&quot;... I simply hate it when system starts swapping and I want to postpone the next hardware upgrade as much as possible :-))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also discovered [System Builder](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/), a site that many of you are likely familiar with, which greatly simplified choosing of components, as my greatest problem was &quot;will the components that I pick work together?&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up taking [these](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/JyNKQZ), plus some no-name tower when I realised that my previous one has a built-in back mask (for motherboard's plugs) which suits only my previous motherboard. I never saw that before and didn't think to check before starting the assembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A big thanks to @CDove for the helpful reply, and to others who gave useful comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. It seems wrong to accept my own answer, especially when there is a helpful one above, yet it is this one that describes what I went with in the end. What is customary on this site in these cases?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35603" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="627fea71-0581-44d5-a99b-1d9e2995eb35" CreationDate="2019-02-01T13:01:55.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35613" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10331" RevisionGUID="cbf385c8-f691-4aca-8ad1-2283d377890b" CreationDate="2019-02-01T15:01:30.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10561" RevisionGUID="087a9842-8ce6-46ea-9ab4-090a73c992f3" CreationDate="2019-02-01T18:51:50.980" UserId="10644" Text="Despite that the majority of models these days have an integrated battery , there still are smartphones that can have their battery easily removed, like [Samsung Galaxy J4][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One easy way to discover some phones (but not all) is to use a site which has parametric search like Kimovil. Here's the page to see models with removable battery less than one year old: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Smartphones with removable battery released last 12 months][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://klgadgetguy.com/2018/07/22/samsung-galaxy-j4-2018-review-the-free-smartphone-you-will-want-to-own/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kimovil.com/en/compare-smartphones/f_min_dm+unveileddate.4,fe_battery-removable&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUQSN.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35635" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10061" RevisionGUID="24c4f032-ba89-45d8-92d1-d8dfc8f48f9a" CreationDate="2019-02-02T00:06:07.750" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35638" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="d36b31fb-e3a6-432e-95a3-e17eca76a392" CreationDate="2019-02-02T00:07:20.790" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10563" RevisionGUID="c4c9d272-6a2d-4e48-b02e-02d8c6003a82" CreationDate="2019-02-02T04:21:09.897" UserId="10620" Text="tl;dr is in the title - what I mean by &quot;not sleep&quot; is that the electronics won't time out when not recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Details: I want to combine audio from a sound system and video from a mounted camera (most likely a cheap camcorder) and send it via HDMI to a TV. Due to the fact that the TV is in a separate room, I was considering wireless options (you can see [my first post about that][1], which was too broad for this forum - sorry!), but none of them worked out, so I'm planning to run a cable (converting HDMI to SDI and back, because 20 meters is too long for HDMI alone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a converter that can take the feed from the audio mixer and make it compatible with a camera's mic input, so the last piece of the puzzle is the camera. But not only is a mic input seemingly rare in low-end cameras, many websites don't even mention it in their specs one way or the other, making it hard to search. I don't care about most of the specs everyone else cares about, like battery life (it will be plugged in all the time), resolution (anything &gt;= 720p is fine), image stabilization, recording media, or compression/bitrates. I don't need to record - I just need a decent video image, combined with my audio, and sent out the HDMI output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in Japan, so model numbers here might vary from what's in your country, but most of that kind of tech comes from Japan or elsewhere in Asia anyway, so I can probably find whatever you suggest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10507/camera-for-viewing-adjacent-room-directly-on-tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35643" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10563" RevisionGUID="c4c9d272-6a2d-4e48-b02e-02d8c6003a82" CreationDate="2019-02-02T04:21:09.897" UserId="10620" Text="Inexpensive camcorder with mic input, HDMI output, and will not sleep" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35644" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10563" RevisionGUID="c4c9d272-6a2d-4e48-b02e-02d8c6003a82" CreationDate="2019-02-02T04:21:09.897" UserId="10620" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10564" RevisionGUID="a9ffe98a-d7c3-4203-ac88-73840df06be2" CreationDate="2019-02-02T08:24:05.530" UserId="10679" Text=" &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I’m a Uni student living on campus at WSU Australia, and they have a login system for the WiFi which it asks me for 2 things, my Identification (student number) and password (student password) - This rules me out from using so many devices. I have got work arounds for most of these, but it’s annoying - in general by default I cannot connect the following -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My smart watch (Gear S3 Frontier) (not too big of an issue as it's usually just paired with my phone)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PlayStation 4/Xbox&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Google home Mini&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My printer (Wouldn't connect it on an open network anyway)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Dyson Pure Cool tower&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and some other devices here and there, but not as important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current work around is setting up my Windows Surface laptop as a portable hotspot, but this has several setbacks, such as - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am constantly removing my laptop from my room, whenever I do these devices lose connection,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop doesn't carry over much of the Uni Wifi’s exceptional speed and can't handle many devices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SO MUCH LAG WHEN IM ONLINE GAMING WITH MY PS4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I'm looking for is recommendations for a WiFi Extender/WAP, (Netgear preferred) that can connect to the Uni's portal asking for student login and password. There is an ethernet port in my room, but the student accommodation has decided to pull the plug on those so you can't access any form of connection if you plug something in. So it would have to be able to connect to the captive login and only on a wireless connection. I obviously do not have the option to link the Uni WAP with my own extender, but I do have access to the WAP in the common room of my apt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks guys!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35646" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10564" RevisionGUID="a9ffe98a-d7c3-4203-ac88-73840df06be2" CreationDate="2019-02-02T08:24:05.530" UserId="10679" Text="Compatible WiFi extender/WAP for University captive network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35647" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10564" RevisionGUID="a9ffe98a-d7c3-4203-ac88-73840df06be2" CreationDate="2019-02-02T08:24:05.530" UserId="10679" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35648" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="119ed0ee-cfed-48f8-9216-6306e48ade0a" CreationDate="2019-02-02T08:28:08.560" UserId="10664" Comment="deleted 228 characters in body" Text="I'm planning an upgrade of a gaming PC. This is my current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 @ 3.00GHz&#xD;&#xA;MB: ASUS H-81 Plus&#xD;&#xA;GPU: GeForce GTX 560 Ti&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to replace GPU with RXT2060 and later at some point upgrade CPU to i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;##The question is:&#xD;&#xA;###Is this plan viable? Will I have noticable performance growth if I only upgrade the GPU? Or must I upgrade both at once?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance for your answers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10567" RevisionGUID="97ea7f53-34d1-49c8-ae39-400f0880a7b1" CreationDate="2019-02-02T21:27:48.570" UserId="6936" Text="So, here is my &quot;happy end&quot; story. I could not find more good options &#xD;&#xA;so I was a bit on the fence about what to buy ... and know what? Recently I was in the local computer store and what did I see! There is a keyboard sold which is exactly what I need. It is **A4Tech X7 G800V** model, a budget (~30$ in Russia) keyboard with extra buttons below the space bar.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I am really puzzled why google was so inefficient on this when I ve been  searching for &quot;keyboard with extra buttons&quot;, &quot;extra key row&quot; etc. and what not - nothing valuable popped up.  &#xD;&#xA;And almost by accidence I have noticed this keyboard in the local computer store.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have bought it and have been testing it for a week, and I am *very* pleased, so I've &#xD;&#xA;even decided to write about my experience so far.&#xD;&#xA;Here is a link to the product: &#xD;&#xA;http://x7.a4tech.com/product.aspx?id=87  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;image:  &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;****&#xD;&#xA;Note: there is another very similar keyboard, G800MU, but it is not suitable for the described needs, because it has no possibility to reprogramm the extra keys, whereas the G800V has this possibility, so be cautious when buying.&#xD;&#xA;****&#xD;&#xA;So what I get:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Fully reprogrammable extra keys** - 15 keys total (gray keys marked with G and a number). &#xD;&#xA;There is a software &quot;X7 Oscar Keyboard Editor&quot; in the downloads and its very easy to use - no reboot &#xD;&#xA;required to reprogramm the keys. So you can reprogramm any G-key to any key, mouse button, or even some macros and more. And that is really cool. Absolute no problems or glitches with that so far.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Overall very good build quality and materials (despite first impression mainly because of childish red WASD keys).&#xD;&#xA;It is a membrane keyboard, but feels really good and smooth - low resistance force and short travel reminds me of &#xD;&#xA;some 90's Chicony keyboard feel.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Now to the best feature - **extra keys below the spacebar** is what I needed so much: now I have both mouse buttons &#xD;&#xA;on my keyboard in a comfortable position under my thumb and don't need any software tweaks and manipulations. &#xD;&#xA;Working on a graphic tablet finally became comfortable (thanks heaven and a4tech).&#xD;&#xA;So I just disable the &quot;click on tip touch&quot; feature in the graphic tablet driver and bind the G-7 key as left mouse button. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very nice bonus - an extra key (G-11) near the ESC key - for now I have bound it to `0` key so I can type numbers like 10, 20, 30, 01, etc. with left hand easily.   &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Few minor issues that I have noticed:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strange decision from a4tech to place the left Alt key below the Z key and to put G12 extra key on its place - this is IMO mistake, BUT - you can easily reprogramm this G12 key  to Alt and the problem is solved, that's what I did, so in &#xD;&#xA;the end my Alt is even better placed than on many modern keyboards.  &#xD;&#xA;The G1-G4 keys (oval keys on the left side) are really hard to press, no idea why they made it so. Definitely those could be more useful if they worked with less force.  &#xD;&#xA;There is no replacement keycaps for those red silicone keycaps (not a real issue though).  &#xD;&#xA;The legs are a bit small, I'd want to raise the angle more -- needed to put some 10 mm blocks under the legs &#xD;&#xA;to raise the angle more, but that is individual preference I think.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Happy end :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1ENz.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35662" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="15081e7b-dcd6-44ea-8212-c7ec139656f0" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:40:29.700" UserId="6936" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10570" RevisionGUID="55d06b1b-8424-4239-a9bf-c4495af141e3" CreationDate="2019-02-03T10:55:05.153" UserId="38" Text="I'd like to have a laptop for mainly programming, office work, LaTeX and browsing the Internet. I will primarily be coding in Java and Scala using IntelliJ, so that requires a decent amount of CPU power, RAM and a fast SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Price: &lt; 1000$&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  In the course of writing this answer, I realized this price requirement might be too harsh to allow for the other requirements. &#xD;&#xA;- Weight: light, possibly &lt; 1.5kg (= 3.3 pounds)&#xD;&#xA;- Planned (personal) years of usage: at least 3-4 years.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  Hence, it should be a reasonable work machine even in 3-4 years, and should have a decent processing.&#xD;&#xA;- Hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Good single-thread CPU power (for [fast LaTeX compilation apparently](https://tex.stackexchange.com/a/103574/38074))&#xD;&#xA;  - \&gt;= 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;  - No disk drive&#xD;&#xA;  - At least 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;  - At least two USB type-A ports&#xD;&#xA;  - Battery does *not* have to be good&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     I use external power supply almost always anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - No OS, only free OS or only clean Windows 10 Pro&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     (I suppose you only get a clean Windows with Microsoft products.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a clear opinion on &quot;touch vs no touch&quot; and &quot;convertible vs ordinary laptop&quot; yet. The price is probably the limiting factor in both points.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Bonus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd accept secondhand and second-class laptops, given that they match the requirements, of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Research&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On this site:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/5546/high-end-lightweight-laptop: too expensive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/267/laptop-for-front-end-development: I suppose front-end development needs less performance than JVM-based development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;External:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [notebooksbilliger.de](https://www.notebooksbilliger.de/) (German site): after filtering for my requirements, only one HP laptop with &gt;= 1200€ was left.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [&quot;The best laptop 2019: our pick of the 15 best laptops you can buy this year&quot;](https://www.techradar.com/news/mobile-computing/laptops/best-laptops-1304361): many laptops there violate the price requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Laptop Finder 2019](https://www.laptopmag.com/laptop-finder): the found laptops either violate the weight or performance requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35669" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10570" RevisionGUID="55d06b1b-8424-4239-a9bf-c4495af141e3" CreationDate="2019-02-03T10:55:05.153" UserId="38" Text="Lightweight fast laptop for office work and Java coding" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35670" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10570" RevisionGUID="55d06b1b-8424-4239-a9bf-c4495af141e3" CreationDate="2019-02-03T10:55:05.153" UserId="38" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10574" RevisionGUID="fedfc18a-a5b2-4829-8bb9-c50a65ca4964" CreationDate="2019-02-04T02:38:18.540" UserId="6047" Text="I noticed in your profile you've marked your location as Germany. This is going to make things a little harder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GL63 8RC-076 | €829,42 (VAT-Inclusive) + €18,91 International Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL63][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the best Laptop I can fit under your price constraint. I've tried my best to minimize performance/usability impact for software engineering.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-8750H&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB M.2 NVMe SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 3 x USB 3.1 Gen 1&#xD;&#xA; - 2.18 kg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;[The i7-8750H is in the top 95th percentile for S-Core points][3], which makes it unusually fast for single core performance form a statistical standpoint. I currently use a i7-6700K with Visual Studio, C#, and Resharper smoothly, all of which are orders of magnitude heavier than your Java setup. I also like to compile executable's to my RAM disk and still don't max out my CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Disk Space ##&#xD;&#xA;You'll have a 128 GB NVMe SSD, and a 1 TB hard drive. If you're only using this for office work you probably won't have too many games on it, so you should be good on that front. As an MSI owener I can tell you the hard drives are pretty decent, at least faster than the HDD that are shipped with U series Intel processors that grind laptops to a halt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you completely fill your SSD and find your HDD to be a bottleneck, you can turn on NTFS compression to try and shift more of the load onto your CPU and RAM. Just make sure you format as NTFS right away, as I've found windows laptop externals to be typically formatted as exFAT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may still want to try and search German based online stores for variants of this laptop to match your specs more closely. I hope this can serve as a good starting point if this is the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/de-en/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154824&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bP63.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10577" RevisionGUID="4ac6ca3e-9d87-47c6-8001-095aa305723b" CreationDate="2019-02-04T10:24:45.710" UserId="1410" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I am getting tired of cross compilation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	a cheap  (sub $100, preferably sub $50) Intel based SBC&#xD;&#xA;-	with some form of flash/eMMC (but not just micro SD card)&#xD;&#xA;-       a UART (two would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;-	and GPIO&#xD;&#xA;-	with a selection of displays available (from 3 lines of text x32 chars to about a 7” colo(u)r display)&#xD;&#xA;-	plus a 4x4 keypad, but I reckon the GPIO can take care of that&#xD;&#xA;-	and the ability to drive some stepper motors (GPIO again)&#xD;&#xA;-	WiFi would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;-	single core is just fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t need the following, though won’t reject anything with, if it doesn’t affect the price too much:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	multicore &#xD;&#xA;-	hi-res graphics / GPU&#xD;&#xA;-	sound&#xD;&#xA;-	camera&#xD;&#xA;-	Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;-	SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize, I am looking for something like a Raspberry Pi Zero W, with an some flash storage and an Intel processor which will let me develop on Windows / Linux without cross-compilation.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35696" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10577" RevisionGUID="4ac6ca3e-9d87-47c6-8001-095aa305723b" CreationDate="2019-02-04T10:24:45.710" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap Intel based SBC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35697" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10577" RevisionGUID="4ac6ca3e-9d87-47c6-8001-095aa305723b" CreationDate="2019-02-04T10:24:45.710" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35705" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10579" RevisionGUID="0825c324-fd80-4e70-8ce0-63bdff5f76f2" CreationDate="2019-02-04T16:27:25.567" UserId="10700" Text="*What I'm Doing*&#xD;&#xA;I have a laptop and I am looking to get a portable screen for my laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*My Problem*&#xD;&#xA;Some of them have separate video and power connectors, but others give power and video over a single USB 3.0 cable.  I really don't want to power a second monitor from my laptop, because that will really drain my laptop's battery.  Instead I would like to power it from a battery pack. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Product / Hardware Recommendation Needed*&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking that some sort of USB Y shaped cable would do the trick.  Then I could plug it from my laptop (male data) AND batterypack/wall (male power) TO my portable monitor (data + power) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thoughts? Product recommendations? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35706" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10579" RevisionGUID="0825c324-fd80-4e70-8ce0-63bdff5f76f2" CreationDate="2019-02-04T16:27:25.567" UserId="10700" Text="Is there a USB 3.0 male (power +data) toY-Split USB male (data only) and usb male (power only) cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35707" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10579" RevisionGUID="0825c324-fd80-4e70-8ce0-63bdff5f76f2" CreationDate="2019-02-04T16:27:25.567" UserId="10700" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35715" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10563" RevisionGUID="0f81d979-3105-4ab9-ab5a-08831daddbe0" CreationDate="2019-02-05T06:00:35.460" UserId="10620" Comment="reworded in response to comment, and added diagrams and new information" Text="(edited by request) Is there a camcorder out there something like this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output that sends live signal (not just playback of recordings)&#xD;&#xA; - external audio (mic) input&#xD;&#xA; - able to stay on (not time out) when in record-standby mode (i.e. when not recording but just watching)&#xD;&#xA; - view angle of approx. 35-40 degrees somewhere in its zoom range&#xD;&#xA; - under about $400 (flexible - less is good, as this does not need to be high quality)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Goal: I want to combine audio from a sound system and video from a mounted camera (most likely a cheap camcorder) and send it via HDMI to a TV in a separate room. This is for a small church that has several moms with toddlers, to allow them to go to the next room and still see/hear the worship service. I previously considered wireless options (you can see [my first post about that][1], which was too broad for this forum - sorry!), but none of them worked out, so I'm planning to run a cable out an exhaust van vent, along the outside wall for about 4 meters, and back in a vent in the other room. See this horribly rough drawing - blue is HDMI and green is audio:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![audio to camera][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not only is a mic input seemingly rare in low-end camcorders, many websites don't even mention it in their specs one way or the other, making it hard to search. They also don't list details like auto-timeout. I don't care about most of the specs everyone else cares about, like battery life (it will be plugged in all the time), resolution (anything &gt;= 720p is fine), image stabilization, recording media, or compression/bitrates. I don't need to record - I just need a decent video image, combined with my audio, and sent out the HDMI output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE:** I have discovered that I might have alternatives for the mic input requirement. First, I learned that the TV can accept a separate audio input for one of its HDMI inputs, so I could run a long XLR cable along with the HDMI, like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![audio to TV][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Secondly, perhaps [a box like this][4] would merge the audio into the HDMI feed before the point where the HDMI cable goes outside, and additionally give the HDMI a voltage boost it would probably need to go the distance. So here's a second scenario for camera specs that would be better for our budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI output that sends live signal (not just playback of recordings)&#xD;&#xA; - able to stay on (not time out) when in record-standby mode (i.e. when not recording but just watching)&#xD;&#xA; - view angle of approx. 35-40 degrees somewhere in its zoom range&#xD;&#xA; - under about $200 (perhaps? We're flexible, but what's the cheapest?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10507/camera-for-viewing-adjacent-room-directly-on-tv&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DW5jd.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wEx8L.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/2UEG7PG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="3d517193-1211-4c5a-b3fc-57adbc28fe4b" CreationDate="2019-02-05T14:31:19.800" UserId="6806" Text="I am searching for a **long lasting** Bluetooth &quot;cable&quot; which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* battery lasts at least 8 hours (assume a ~36 ohm in-ear headphones),&#xD;&#xA;* supports for current audio codecs like LDAC, aptX, ... and,&#xD;&#xA;* high quality headphone amplifier,&#xD;&#xA;* bonus, does support Bluetooth Low energy (BLE).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is for example the [RMCE-BT2](http://www.shure.com/americas/products/accessories/earphones/earphone-headphone-cables/rmce-bt2-high-resolution-bluetooth-5-earphone-communication-cable). I wonder if there are better and cheaper products than this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://522bb370f5443d4fe5b9-f62de27af599bb6703e11b472beadbcc.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product/zoomable_image/10932/max_desktop_bt2-main-b.jpg)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35727" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="3d517193-1211-4c5a-b3fc-57adbc28fe4b" CreationDate="2019-02-05T14:31:19.800" UserId="6806" Text="MMCX Bluetooth cable supporting current HighRes audio codecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35728" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="3d517193-1211-4c5a-b3fc-57adbc28fe4b" CreationDate="2019-02-05T14:31:19.800" UserId="6806" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35731" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10579" RevisionGUID="a22eb7dc-8035-4cf1-835a-c057cdf71f1d" CreationDate="2019-02-05T14:47:19.090" UserId="6047" Comment="Converted italics to headings." Text="What I'm Doing&#xD;&#xA;--------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a laptop and I am looking to get a portable screen for my laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Problem&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of them have separate video and power connectors, but others give power and video over a single USB 3.0 cable.  I really don't want to power a second monitor from my laptop, because that will really drain my laptop's battery.  Instead I would like to power it from a battery pack. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Product / Hardware Recommendation Needed&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking that some sort of USB Y shaped cable would do the trick.  Then I could plug it from my laptop (male data) AND batterypack/wall (male power) TO my portable monitor (data + power)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35732" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10579" RevisionGUID="a22eb7dc-8035-4cf1-835a-c057cdf71f1d" CreationDate="2019-02-05T14:47:19.090" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 8 edit id of 799" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="d9bf82bd-e5cb-4593-90e4-5625ec6fd8b6" CreationDate="2019-02-05T16:01:40.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="e0bd1f62-59f2-49e2-be0d-96cb2ef2cd5e" CreationDate="2019-02-05T19:28:06.753" UserId="10710" Text="I really like the ergonomics of a tenkeyless keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I work in an office environment, and am a loud and aggressive typer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like EVERYTHING I find for tenkeyless on Amazon is mechanical switches, and most commonly blue mechanical switches (the loudest ones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am just looking for a quality tenkeyless keyboard that is quiet. I also prefer a little bit of tactile feedback (maybe cherry red are not for me).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DO any quiet tenkeyless keyboards exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35742" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="e0bd1f62-59f2-49e2-be0d-96cb2ef2cd5e" CreationDate="2019-02-05T19:28:06.753" UserId="10710" Text="Tenkeyless keyboard recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35743" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="e0bd1f62-59f2-49e2-be0d-96cb2ef2cd5e" CreationDate="2019-02-05T19:28:06.753" UserId="10710" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="65f3b57e-0896-42b6-8783-a7561c2c00f1" CreationDate="2019-02-05T21:33:30.217" UserId="6806" Comment="fixed typos" Text="I am searching for a **long lasting** Bluetooth &quot;cable&quot; which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* battery lasts at least 8 hours (assume a ~36 ohm in-ear headphone),&#xD;&#xA;* supports for current audio codecs like LDAC, aptX, ...,&#xD;&#xA;* high quality headphone amplifier and,&#xD;&#xA;* bonus, does support Bluetooth Low energy (BLE).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is for example the [RMCE-BT2](http://www.shure.com/americas/products/accessories/earphones/earphone-headphone-cables/rmce-bt2-high-resolution-bluetooth-5-earphone-communication-cable). I wonder if there are better and cheaper products than this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://522bb370f5443d4fe5b9-f62de27af599bb6703e11b472beadbcc.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product/zoomable_image/10932/max_desktop_bt2-main-b.jpg)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10595" RevisionGUID="de11eedf-c397-42d0-93df-7f2e1865f472" CreationDate="2019-02-07T13:10:03.833" UserId="2179" Text="I am buying a disk for my home-made NAS server. I will not access my server very often so I am planning to spin down (put disk to sleep) when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about WD Red or Seagate Ironwolf since they are optimized for nas. But then again... NAS disks usually are not ment to be speened down since this puts a lot of stress on the disk. They dont even support hdparam and you have to rely on third party tools to put them to sleep (https://withblue.ink/2016/07/15/what-i-learnt-from-using-wd-red-disks-to-build-a-home-nas.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which disk would you recommend me for my use case?** Would you go with WD Red, Ironwolf or some other disk? Do you know any disk which specifically supports hdparm?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35779" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10595" RevisionGUID="de11eedf-c397-42d0-93df-7f2e1865f472" CreationDate="2019-02-07T13:10:03.833" UserId="2179" Text="NAS disk which can go to sleep" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35780" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10595" RevisionGUID="de11eedf-c397-42d0-93df-7f2e1865f472" CreationDate="2019-02-07T13:10:03.833" UserId="2179" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35781" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10595" RevisionGUID="e584e6c8-8feb-45af-866f-51bea514e2ff" CreationDate="2019-02-07T13:32:48.317" UserId="2179" Comment="edited body" Text="I am buying a disk for my home-made NAS server. I will not access my server very often so I am planning to spin down (put disk to sleep) when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about WD Red or Seagate Ironwolf since they are optimized for nas. But then again... NAS disks usually are not ment to be spinned down since this puts a lot of stress on the disk. They dont even support hdparam and you have to rely on third party tools to put them to sleep (https://withblue.ink/2016/07/15/what-i-learnt-from-using-wd-red-disks-to-build-a-home-nas.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Which disk would you recommend me for my use case?** Would you go with WD Red, Ironwolf or some other disk? Do you know any disk which specifically supports hdparm?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10597" RevisionGUID="3f35ad73-f4cd-4d5a-b7c8-37f7c9d0932a" CreationDate="2019-02-07T21:08:51.853" UserId="4970" Text="You could try the topre switches, they are not so loud, and from what I've heard it's qiute an experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one for example: [Realforce 87U on Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can check a review here: [YouTube Review on Realforce 87U][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are also mechanical but they are less loud than Cherry MX. Myself, I have a Ducky Zero with brown MX but I don't have issues with the clicky noises :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Realforce-87U-Tenkeyless-White-Gray/dp/B00MV7TMNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549573616&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=topre&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Sc4hB6m8-s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35794" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="aa5585c1-2ce1-4a11-b5b4-6710f0402ada" CreationDate="2019-02-08T03:01:55.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="35805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="9d45e6e6-c25e-492f-beed-4e11d969f512" CreationDate="2019-02-08T11:44:29.550" UserId="10730" Text="I am currently doing my Msc. research paper on an area which involves developing a specialized virtual reality app thus requiring a good VR headset, so whats the best on-budget recommended headset that i can begin with " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35806" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="9d45e6e6-c25e-492f-beed-4e11d969f512" CreationDate="2019-02-08T11:44:29.550" UserId="10730" Text="What is the best Virtual Reality headset for research purposes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35807" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="9d45e6e6-c25e-492f-beed-4e11d969f512" CreationDate="2019-02-08T11:44:29.550" UserId="10730" Text="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9978" RevisionGUID="83bc1fb5-5254-49ef-93d1-8c6ddce8789b" CreationDate="2019-02-08T16:28:36.427" UserId="10627" Comment="Reinserted the deleted link since the statement of affiliation is rather bizarre without it. Improved spelling and grammar." Text="Since you are going to upgrade your CPU, you should consider AMD. I don't know what problems you encountered in the past, but the latest Ryzen CPUs are well worth their price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had the same hesitation but I bought the 2700X to give it a try - paired with an x470 board. It's a beast, it can do rendering, streaming, gaming, all at the same time. I believe it's the most VFM option these days - hands down. And the best part is some new AMD technologies that allow the CPU to reach [its maximum overclock abilities automatically, without tweaking a single setting.][1] (note: I am affiliated with this site)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel has a bad availability these days, so prices have gone way high for their value. That said, a 8700K would also cover your needs - consider it being the same as 2700X performance-wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.pcsteps.com/18929-ryzen-2700x-review/#Precision_Boost_2_and_XFR_2&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35810" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9978" RevisionGUID="83bc1fb5-5254-49ef-93d1-8c6ddce8789b" CreationDate="2019-02-08T16:28:36.427" Comment="Proposed by 10627 approved by 57 edit id of 797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35811" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="bbeea47e-c7d0-47b2-8457-c62a7b7c8651" CreationDate="2019-02-08T16:31:12.713" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35818" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10603" RevisionGUID="c48230f1-35ce-4c8d-91d0-31d52de49cca" CreationDate="2019-02-09T09:18:35.123" UserId="4065" Text="Chaining worked, but I had to check with the manufacturer for model numbers and to confirm it would work. Their tech team kindly tested it for me, to check that the HDMI EDID adapter *would* work behind a DP to HDMI adapter, and told me the exact parts they had used to make it work.&#xA;&#xA;The parts I used were from [Lindy][1], and were a 41068 DP1.2 to HDMI 4k 60Hz converter, with a 32113 HDMI 2.0 EDID adapter plugged into it. Initially I got the adapter the wrong way round - be careful if you use these parts, the &quot;male&quot; (plug) end of the HDMI EDID adapter faces the computer, the &quot;female&quot; (socket) end faces the monitor.&#xA;&#xA;Obviously there are probably other people making these; at this time there isn't much choice but that's likely to change.&#xA;&#xA;They're working absolutely fine, rock solid, on both my HD TV and my 4k monitor.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://lindy.co.uk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35822" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="ee77d33b-845c-439a-b165-9f5ca3fe1189" CreationDate="2019-02-09T10:21:15.190" UserId="10730" Comment="added 386 characters in body" Text="I am currently doing my Msc. research paper on an area which involves developing a specialized virtual reality app thus requiring a good VR headset, so whats the best on-budget recommended headset that i can begin with &#xD;&#xA;**Edited**&#xD;&#xA;what i am specifically looking into is a headset which is compatible, comfortable &amp; on-budget enough to support a realisticly simulated VR content developed by unity3D through which a user can navigate inside the simulation and interact with things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sorry for the simplistic nature of my question, am new to VR content creation and peripherals involved in the process. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35823" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="bac50e38-be5c-408a-a55f-96f232fa18fa" CreationDate="2019-02-09T10:26:17.250" UserId="10730" Comment="added 386 characters in body" Text="I am currently doing my Msc. research paper on an area which involves developing a specialized virtual reality app thus requiring a good VR headset, so whats the best on-budget recommended headset that i can begin with  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edited**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what i am specifically looking into is a headset which is compatible, comfortable &amp; on-budget enough to support a realisticly simulated VR content developed by unity3D through which a user can navigate inside the simulation and interact with things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sorry for the simplistic nature of my question, am new to VR content creation and peripherals involved in the process. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="7cee5ece-7b10-4575-922d-723a82d23a9e" CreationDate="2019-02-09T19:32:40.573" UserId="10741" Text="LG gram 14z980&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B32P1PJ/ref=emc_b_5_t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I use lg gram 15z980 to write this answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: 	$959.98(I don't check other sites)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight: 2.2 lbs, very very very light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 8th Gen. Intel Core i5(enough for latex, I also use Texstudio every day)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 GB RAM(you could add your own, much cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No disk drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256 GB SSD (since your price, but you could add your own SSD and RAM to it!!I also bought the cheapest version and add another 500g ssd and 8g ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 USB C, 2 USB 3.0. So At least two USB type-A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery is very very good.(21.5 hours according to the page. I bring it to school everyday without charger)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No OS, only free OS or only clean Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use ubuntu 18.04 on it now, only the fingerprint can't use of course. All things are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="9b32787a-579a-46ec-a22c-f7725d3fec40" CreationDate="2019-02-09T19:38:29.223" UserId="10741" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="LG gram 14z980&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B32P1PJ/ref=emc_b_5_t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I use lg gram 15z980 to write this answer.(I recommend 15 version since it has number pad, convenient when you need input a lot numbers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: 	$959.98(I don't check other sites)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight: 2.2 lbs, very very very light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 8th Gen. Intel Core i5(enough for latex, I also use Texstudio every day)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 GB RAM(you could add your own, much cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No disk drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256 GB SSD (since your price, but you could add your own SSD and RAM to it!!I also bought the cheapest version and add another 500g ssd and 8g ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 USB C, 2 USB 3.0. So At least two USB type-A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery is very very good.(21.5 hours according to the page. I bring it to school everyday without charger)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No OS, only free OS or only clean Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has windows home, now I use ubuntu 18.04 on it for better coding, only the fingerprint can't use of course. All things are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's light , and without nice gpu so you could foucs on office work, latex, java coding(for me is python coding) etc lol." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35827" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="68ce176f-0f91-400e-a905-025aee8556c9" CreationDate="2019-02-09T19:47:59.227" UserId="10741" Comment="added 156 characters in body" Text="LG gram 14z980&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B32P1PJ/ref=emc_b_5_t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I use lg gram 15z980 to write this answer.(I recommend 15 version since it has number pad, convenient when you need input a lot numbers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: 	$959.98(I don't check other sites)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Weight: 2.2 lbs, very very very light&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 8th Gen. Intel Core i5(enough for latex, I also use Texstudio every day)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 GB RAM(you could add your own, much cheaper)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No disk drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256 GB SSD (since your price, but you could add your own SSD and RAM to it!!I also bought the cheapest version and add another 500g ssd and 8g ram)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 USB C, 2 USB 3.0. So At least two USB type-A ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery is very very good.(21.5 hours according to the page. I bring it to school everyday without charger)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No OS, only free OS or only clean Windows 10 Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has windows home, now I use ubuntu 18.04 on it for better coding, only the fingerprint can't use of course. All things are fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's light , and without nice gpu so you could foucs on office work, latex, java coding(for me is python coding) etc lol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Althoug Lg gram 2019 version is on the way(cpu+10% around, all with thunderbolt, but it depends on you. From my perspective the 2018 version is enough. It may save some money to buy 2018 version when the 2019 version release? I'm not sure)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35835" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10607" RevisionGUID="5eec8e10-10b2-4f04-8d16-15ae5cf19eed" CreationDate="2019-02-10T07:46:50.133" UserId="4786" Text="After watching videos on Youtube from LinusTechTips, HardwareCanucks and JayzTwoCents, I have concluded that the best GPU for this use case would be the GTX 1070 8GB, as it uses CUDA to encode and transcode footage using the OpenCL API. While the AMD cards do support OpenCL and Vulkan support, it just isn't as optimized as Nvidia's offerings at the same price point, meaning that video encoding and just in general editing will take longer when compared to a 10-series Pascal GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This also boils down to driver optimization and feature support coming from each respective manufacturer. One thing to note is that Linus used the GTX 980 Ti as the high end Nvidia GPU at the time, so the performance of that card is very similar to a 1070, hence my decision. The GTX 980 Ti essentially mopped the floor with AMD's offerings, no matter how small the gain was over team red. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 1070 also features lower power consumption and better performance when compared to the other 2 AMD cards I talked about in the original post, which is always ideal for any PC, whilst also allowing for some great 1080p gaming, or maybe even 1440p if we are feeling a bit adventurous. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10609" RevisionGUID="bac76a34-1a10-4e4b-aa38-5a591094a520" CreationDate="2019-02-10T09:57:02.583" UserId="10746" Text="I'm looking for an MCU with development board on which I can build a small embedded OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something along these lines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least single digit MBs of EEPROM or flash.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - About 1MB or so SRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Single core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Flat memory map, no cache&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Fast enough to achieve 10-20 fps on a low-resolution display&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Von Neumann architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be appreciated" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35840" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10609" RevisionGUID="bac76a34-1a10-4e4b-aa38-5a591094a520" CreationDate="2019-02-10T09:57:02.583" UserId="10746" Text="Looking for a microcontroller for embedded OS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35841" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10609" RevisionGUID="bac76a34-1a10-4e4b-aa38-5a591094a520" CreationDate="2019-02-10T09:57:02.583" UserId="10746" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;osx&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10610" RevisionGUID="608beec2-4f1c-483c-8143-61706736d399" CreationDate="2019-02-10T11:45:10.997" UserId="10748" Text="I am lately experiencing RAM troubles on my PC and would like an upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;PC is 5 years old, below you may find screenshot with stats.&#xD;&#xA;Main usage is work: MS Office and statistical software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a upgrade to 16 or even 32GB but have no idea how to chose the memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope you could help me,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcRhe.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZVvF.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFS8W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35843" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10610" RevisionGUID="608beec2-4f1c-483c-8143-61706736d399" CreationDate="2019-02-10T11:45:10.997" UserId="10748" Text="RAM upgrade help" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35844" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10610" RevisionGUID="608beec2-4f1c-483c-8143-61706736d399" CreationDate="2019-02-10T11:45:10.997" UserId="10748" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10618" RevisionGUID="0f19cb06-97a5-4925-9ca7-697986b56109" CreationDate="2019-02-11T13:36:45.410" UserId="10585" Text="My Motherboard is missing (HP EliteDesk 800 G3 TowerPC ) Serial port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 black slots of PCIE empty (named X1PCIEXP1, X1PCIEXP2 on the motherboard) and a yellow PCIE slot empty (named X4PCIEXP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two black slots are smaller in size, whereas the yellow slot is longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is when I search online for PCIE to serial (Rs422) convertors, the products show small size connector probably I have to connect to the small black colored X1PCIEXP slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unable to find any serial interface card for X4PCI slot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindly help. So the serial adaptor cards are not available in market for X4PCI slots? or am I missing something? So, should I buy X1PCI slot compatible ones for serial interfacing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10618" RevisionGUID="0f19cb06-97a5-4925-9ca7-697986b56109" CreationDate="2019-02-11T13:36:45.410" UserId="10585" Text="Need help finding Serial connector card for my motherboard (PCI/E to RS422)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10618" RevisionGUID="0f19cb06-97a5-4925-9ca7-697986b56109" CreationDate="2019-02-11T13:36:45.410" UserId="10585" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35875" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10618" RevisionGUID="d6a3c148-4311-44d7-b536-06fbbf3cc863" CreationDate="2019-02-11T13:55:09.820" UserId="10585" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="My Motherboard is missing (HP EliteDesk 800 G3 TowerPC ) Serial port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 2 black slots of PCIE empty (named X1PCIEXP1, X1PCIEXP2 on the motherboard) and a yellow PCIE slot empty (named X4PCIEXP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The two black slots are smaller in size, whereas the yellow slot is longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is when I search online for PCIE to serial (Rs422) convertors, the products show small size connector probably I have to connect to the small black colored X1PCIEXP slots.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unable to find any serial interface card for X4PCI slot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindly help. So the serial adaptor cards are not available in market for X4PCI slots? or am I missing something? So, should I buy X1PCI slot compatible ones for serial interfacing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I buy this serial interface connector, by advantech?&#xD;&#xA;PCI-1602B-CE &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10601" RevisionGUID="431ecbee-d6a4-4cb9-8d05-c5db06a0a966" CreationDate="2019-02-11T15:00:14.380" UserId="10730" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I am currently doing my Msc. research paper on an area which involves developing a specialized virtual reality app thus requiring a good VR headset, so whats the best on-budget recommended headset that i can begin with  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edited**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what i am specifically looking into is a headset which is compatible, comfortable &amp; on-budget(under 300$) enough to support a realistically simulated VR content developed by unity3D through which a user can navigate inside the simulation and interact with things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;sorry for the simplistic nature of my question, am new to VR content creation and peripherals involved in the process. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35877" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10618" RevisionGUID="72468d48-2d85-40be-96fa-ca9c6f6e1863" CreationDate="2019-02-11T18:01:06.203" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35883" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10610" RevisionGUID="6a51d778-636d-4aa4-8d31-28e724581fd2" CreationDate="2019-02-11T18:02:09.497" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10620" RevisionGUID="6531c2dc-2fb6-45dd-abe9-37a5e8339ecf" CreationDate="2019-02-11T18:27:35.873" UserId="10644" Text="Use a [Polar H7][1] strap which has Bluetooth Smart and use any application you like for your OS. Polar HR straps are well supported. Here is  screenshot of Heart Beat Monitor from Windows 10 Store. It's not even made by Polar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.polar.com/uk-en/b2b_products/team_sports/polar_team_indoor_team_sports_coach/accessories/polar_H7_heart_rate_sensor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cx9a6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="1cbd0ef0-25b6-4379-862b-ae864a96334f" CreationDate="2019-02-11T19:55:14.947" UserId="10610" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard that does **not** have UEFI. So far I been been unable to find any. It is for a system that will be running a bare bones Debian or Gentoo system. Its speed and compatibility with newer hardware are secondary as long as it only has BIOS. Looking to make it very difficult for malware to survive a full system wipe. I have no other hardware requirements (ie chipset, max memory, etc.) except that it be ddr3 compatible and newer than 2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any other advice on creating a secure system (from a hardware perspective) is also greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asked before but wasn't keeping up, hope this is specific enough)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35895" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="1cbd0ef0-25b6-4379-862b-ae864a96334f" CreationDate="2019-02-11T19:55:14.947" UserId="10610" Text="Looking for a nonUEFI motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35896" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="1cbd0ef0-25b6-4379-862b-ae864a96334f" CreationDate="2019-02-11T19:55:14.947" UserId="10610" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10623" RevisionGUID="0e72672c-9618-407a-bb78-bc372c3f7821" CreationDate="2019-02-12T13:10:57.093" UserId="10761" Text="My Recommendation : Xiaomi Mi A2  ,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB C ,&#xD;&#xA;Snapdragon 660 , &#xD;&#xA;No Notch ,&#xD;&#xA;6' Display [LCD] ,&#xD;&#xA;3000 Mah Battery ,&#xD;&#xA;Android One [Currently in Android Pie] ,&#xD;&#xA;Custom Rom Support ,&#xD;&#xA;4+64GB 6+64GB Configuration ,&#xD;&#xA;IR Blaster ,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only Downgrade is No Expandable Storage ,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For More Info : https://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_mi_a2_(mi_6x)-9140.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35907" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10623" RevisionGUID="d52479c3-c08d-4768-bb13-a8e3ec4bbecf" CreationDate="2019-02-12T15:20:16.587" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Listed the pros, adjusted punctuation, changed feet to inches on screen size" Text="My Recommendation : **Xiaomi Mi A2**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - USB C&#xD;&#xA; - Snapdragon 660 &#xD;&#xA; - No Notch&#xD;&#xA; - 6&quot; Display [LCD] &#xD;&#xA; - 3000 mAh Battery &#xD;&#xA; - Android One [Currently in Android Pie] w/ Custom Rom Support&#xD;&#xA; - 4+64GB 6+64GB Configuration &#xD;&#xA; - IR Blaster&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only Downside is No Expandable Storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For More Info : https://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_mi_a2_(mi_6x)-9140.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35908" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10623" RevisionGUID="d52479c3-c08d-4768-bb13-a8e3ec4bbecf" CreationDate="2019-02-12T15:20:16.587" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 60 edit id of 801" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35923" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="91b1d30d-d888-4279-801c-f32ff708f746" CreationDate="2019-02-13T01:56:17.040" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 176 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a motherboard that does **not** have UEFI. So far I been been unable to find any. It is for a system that will be running a bare bones Debian or Gentoo system. Its speed and compatibility with newer hardware are secondary as long as it only has BIOS. Looking to make it very difficult for malware to survive a full system wipe. I have no other hardware requirements (ie chipset, max memory, etc.) except that it be ddr3 compatible and newer than 2000." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35925" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="2f8659cd-8555-4d77-a2c8-73844761c8bd" CreationDate="2019-02-13T01:57:19.203" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[10502],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35927" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="96f1a52b-435e-4e03-a8e0-4d3f4fbb456a" CreationDate="2019-02-13T01:57:28.130" UserId="8" Comment="to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10502/looking-for-a-nonuefi-system" />
  <row Id="35928" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="10621" RevisionGUID="8b1cdc1c-b78e-4069-8243-456e8e6cef82" CreationDate="2019-02-13T01:57:28.130" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35929" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10448" RevisionGUID="2d796377-b9cf-44c1-a7dc-62f6cc5b4327" CreationDate="2019-02-13T01:59:16.893" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="35946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10630" RevisionGUID="3aa0a99b-9845-40c7-96bf-c1f8ce5cb0b7" CreationDate="2019-02-13T11:57:28.510" UserId="10768" Text="As Mihail said you could try a topre switch, however these can be a lot more expensive than the traditional mx style mechanical switches ( that's if you regard topre as mechanical).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-alt-mechanical-keyboard &#xD;&#xA;This isn't tenkeyless as it is missing some of the function keys ( the lesser used ones and some of the keys like print screen and end).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you consider getting this keyboard I would recommend getting one of the halo switches ( both are tactile) as browns are quite naff imo. Here is an article comparing the difference. ( I use halo trues personally).&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tomshardware.com/news/input-club-halo-true-halo-clear-mechanical-switches,34443.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand the Code Keyboard and the WASD keyboards also have some good tenkeyless boards from memory.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10634" RevisionGUID="7e1e44ea-c671-41d5-9875-88de11a937bd" CreationDate="2019-02-14T14:41:41.350" UserId="10778" Text="I need to buy a laptop for my wife, who will use it for the most basic of requirements: web surfing, email, word processing. It needs to run Windows, because she uses Microsoft Word extensively. It can have a small screen, say around 10-12 inches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend much on this, but I want a machine that will be able to perform these simple tasks very well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been burned in the past by buying devices like the [HP Stream](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-stream-11-ah110nr), which is advertised for precisely this use case, but totally inadequate. It doesn't have enough storage to handle even the operating system, and even with only a few browser tabs open, grinds to a halt. Even typing an email can bog down waiting for the keystrokes to process.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, I'd like to spend as little as possible, but not less than necessary to get a decent machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is a good machine for this situation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35965" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10634" RevisionGUID="7e1e44ea-c671-41d5-9875-88de11a937bd" CreationDate="2019-02-14T14:41:41.350" UserId="10778" Text="Looking for a budget laptop for simple tasks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35966" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10634" RevisionGUID="7e1e44ea-c671-41d5-9875-88de11a937bd" CreationDate="2019-02-14T14:41:41.350" UserId="10778" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35990" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10638" RevisionGUID="839cf15e-781b-4b50-8f3a-ad3f3e97bb1c" CreationDate="2019-02-15T18:59:50.933" UserId="9887" Text="I found pudding keycaps, [e.g.][1]&#xA;&#xA;And I found blank keycaps, [e.g.][2]&#xA;&#xA;Does anybody know whether there also exist blank pudding keycaps?&#xA;&#xA;For further reference, I live in Germany and have Cherry MX switches in my Lioncast LK 30 keyboard.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://flashquark.com/product/pbt-pudding-keycaps-black-and-white-oem-profile-104-keys/&#xA;  [2]: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/max-ansi-104-key-cherry-mx-full-replacement-keycap-set-blank.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35991" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10638" RevisionGUID="839cf15e-781b-4b50-8f3a-ad3f3e97bb1c" CreationDate="2019-02-15T18:59:50.933" UserId="9887" Text="Blank pudding keycaps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35992" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10638" RevisionGUID="839cf15e-781b-4b50-8f3a-ad3f3e97bb1c" CreationDate="2019-02-15T18:59:50.933" UserId="9887" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36001" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="74659dc4-0738-4257-86a1-553dc3f6e38a" CreationDate="2019-02-16T15:01:30.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36002" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10640" RevisionGUID="1f3c3e25-1a1e-4c35-a618-afe8172eebdb" CreationDate="2019-02-16T15:50:17.090" UserId="6122" Text="I'm looking for a photo camera capable of taking photos of the whole sky from zenith to the horizon. The camera must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* have field of view at least 180°&#xD;&#xA;* provide RAW format photos&#xD;&#xA;* be controllable from a PC (to set exposure, trigger the shutter etc.)&#xD;&#xA;* have &quot;bulb&quot; shutter mode&#xD;&#xA;* have low enough noise to be usable for easily shooting visible stars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum desirable price is about US$150.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have Canon 1100D (not counting against the max price) which satisfies almost all the above points, but doesn't have any wide-enough-angle lens. Since it has a cropped sensor, I'm not sure I'll be able to find any fisheye lens to get 180° FOV. But if you know of a cheap enough suitable lens, it'll be a good answer. Otherwise, I expect some solution independent of my existing camera." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36003" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10640" RevisionGUID="1f3c3e25-1a1e-4c35-a618-afe8172eebdb" CreationDate="2019-02-16T15:50:17.090" UserId="6122" Text="180° FOV camera with RAW output for under US$150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36004" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10640" RevisionGUID="1f3c3e25-1a1e-4c35-a618-afe8172eebdb" CreationDate="2019-02-16T15:50:17.090" UserId="6122" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36006" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10638" RevisionGUID="8c04ed87-dd57-497e-944f-e5b5b6ef86f8" CreationDate="2019-02-16T19:35:25.443" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36015" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10643" RevisionGUID="bb8ccdb5-66b9-41a7-acf1-f569623da14a" CreationDate="2019-02-17T07:23:48.310" UserId="10788" Text="I connected a seagate 2TB to a beaglebone black for a media server setup. On my phone I installed VLC player, the setup works fine and it plays very well. Until I play H.264 videos, initially it works fine but it continuously trying to buffer, like you are on a slow internet watching YouTube. So now I am thinking of two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An SBC powerful enough to stream H.264 videos on the local network, but less than 150$ (The less the better).&#xD;&#xA; 2. I have an extra beaglebone green so I thought of setting up a &quot;cluster&quot; from these two (Would it work?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36016" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10643" RevisionGUID="bb8ccdb5-66b9-41a7-acf1-f569623da14a" CreationDate="2019-02-17T07:23:48.310" UserId="10788" Text="Looking for an SBC board for streaming H.264 videos" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36017" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10643" RevisionGUID="bb8ccdb5-66b9-41a7-acf1-f569623da14a" CreationDate="2019-02-17T07:23:48.310" UserId="10788" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36018" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10643" RevisionGUID="dc0bb30d-1c17-420c-bf25-48bb8a2d48ee" CreationDate="2019-02-17T07:33:11.863" UserId="10788" Comment="Adding requirements" Text="I connected a seagate 2TB to a beaglebone black for a media server setup. On my phone I installed VLC player, the setup works fine and it plays very well. Until I play H.264 videos, initially it works fine but it continuously trying to buffer, like you are on a slow internet watching YouTube. So now I am thinking of two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. An SBC powerful enough to stream H.264 videos on the local network, with gigabit Ethernet, but less than 150$ (The less the better).&#xD;&#xA; 2. I have an extra beaglebone green so I thought of setting up a &quot;cluster&quot; from these two (Would it work?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36019" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10643" RevisionGUID="764773ab-2e38-476c-8c21-66a7ae7b117f" CreationDate="2019-02-17T19:01:49.757" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="f683176f-2ba0-4adf-9c7a-854e4d7d55ad" CreationDate="2019-02-17T21:35:40.513" UserId="10793" Text="I am trying to buy the most reliable case fan known to man. Reliable meaning, lasts the longest without dying but still maintain good airflow. In the search of this, I want to know whats the best bearing type so I know what case fan to buy. A good start might be, what does enterprise use? Dell/HP/IBM server use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36031" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="f683176f-2ba0-4adf-9c7a-854e4d7d55ad" CreationDate="2019-02-17T21:35:40.513" UserId="10793" Text="What case fan bearing type is the most reliable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36032" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="f683176f-2ba0-4adf-9c7a-854e4d7d55ad" CreationDate="2019-02-17T21:35:40.513" UserId="10793" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36046" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10609" RevisionGUID="509f2c03-2fd2-48e0-99d6-0e41ab59e288" CreationDate="2019-02-18T13:54:02.050" UserId="10747" Comment="Clarified price limit and added a solution in case anyone wanted something similar" Text="I'm looking for an MCU with development board on which I can build a small embedded OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something along these lines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least single digit MBs of EEPROM or flash.&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - About 1MB or so SRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Single core&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Flat memory map, no cache&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Fast enough to achieve 10-20 fps on a low-resolution display&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Von Neumann architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be appreciated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit1: no upper price limit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit2: I ended up settling on the PIC32MZ2048EFG064, it has 2MB flash, 0.5MB sram, runs at 200MHz, it's not von Neumann but it does allow you to execute from sram and write to flash during execution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36047" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10609" RevisionGUID="509f2c03-2fd2-48e0-99d6-0e41ab59e288" CreationDate="2019-02-18T13:54:02.050" Comment="Proposed by 10747 approved by 57 edit id of 802" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36048" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="436136da-f087-4517-bcdb-0fc2dc5f908b" CreationDate="2019-02-18T13:54:10.173" UserId="4495" Comment="broken images fixed (click 'rendered output' to see the difference; images retrieved via Wayback Machine); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="Your operating system such as Windows or [Mac OS X][1] should be able to remap the input of the keyboard to [Dvorak][2], [Colmak][3], or other national language layouts. You should not need any support for this from the keyboard hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, transitioning to a [standing desk][4] may help with your back and slumping. Working with a good [Pilates][5] trainer helped me immensely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Kinesis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for ergonomic keyboards, consider various products from [Kinesis][6]. My favorite is the [Freestyle2][7].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][13]][13]  &#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: [kinesis-ergo.com](http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/images/2008/Kinesis-Freestyle2-for-PC-91.jpg))&lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kinesis offers a [Bluetooth][8] version, the [Freestyle2 Blue][9] (one for PC, [one for Mac][10]). Supports switching between up to 3 computers/devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][14]][14]  &#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: [kinesis-ergo.com](http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/wp-content/uploads/products/cache_400_320_0_100_100_16777215_fs2-blue-mac-montage-636.jpg))&lt;/sub&gt;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Keyboard.io&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Spring of 2016 may bring an innovative keyboard being developed as a Kickstarter project. See [Keyboard.io][11]. You can read all about this team’s development adventure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0920/0728/products/model_01_hero_1024x1024.jpg?v=1437001156&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, that is wood, real solid wood. The “butterfly” shape was discovered by accident to be comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;## DIY Dream&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Keyboard.io is entirely open-source, both the hardware and software. Built on top of the open [Aduino][12] platform. It can be *completely* re-programmed by you or third-parties. No restrictive license. You can even program control of each key’s individual LED light. &#xA;&#xA;For the convenience of non-programmers, a simple utility app arbitrarily re-assign keys any way you desire. They even build in an extra physical key with no assigned behavior, for you to dream up an assignment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://apple.stackexchange.com/q/15173/17907&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dvorak_Simplified_Keyboard&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_layout#Colemak&#xA;  [4]: http://iamnotaprogrammer.com/Ikea-Standing-desk-for-22-dollars.html&#xA;  [5]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilates&#xA;  [6]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/&#xA;  [7]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-for-pc-us/&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xA;  [9]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-pc/&#xA;  [10]: http://www.kinesis-ergo.com/shop/freestyle2-blue-mac/&#xA;  [11]: http://shop.keyboard.io&#xA;  [12]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino&#xA; [13]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mo8nM.jpg&#xA; [14]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3iiUt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36049" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1823" RevisionGUID="436136da-f087-4517-bcdb-0fc2dc5f908b" CreationDate="2019-02-18T13:54:10.173" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10654" RevisionGUID="8ab94156-29d9-4a56-af37-6368ac6e466b" CreationDate="2019-02-18T22:04:28.033" UserId="4549" Text="I have some mini pcie wireless cards I want to use with my laptop. I ordered one such device from amazon, but it was a sham, there was litterly no components on  the PCB, there is no way I could have worked. What USB to mini PCIE device do you recommend? Operational with Linux would be a requirement.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36069" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10654" RevisionGUID="8ab94156-29d9-4a56-af37-6368ac6e466b" CreationDate="2019-02-18T22:04:28.033" UserId="4549" Text="looking for a usb to mini pcie adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36070" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10654" RevisionGUID="8ab94156-29d9-4a56-af37-6368ac6e466b" CreationDate="2019-02-18T22:04:28.033" UserId="4549" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10656" RevisionGUID="7926cc74-bbf9-4e8e-ae05-108fd0730271" CreationDate="2019-02-19T06:44:42.327" UserId="2081" Text="You're not going to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB and PCIe are two very different technologies supported by the PCH ([Platform Controller Hub][1]) in the chipset of your PC/Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The I/O portion of the PCH supplies both PCIe and USB interfaces to the system.  However, PCIe being an expansion bus allows you add additional USB controllers to the system; the USB interface doesn't allow you to add PCIe controllers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need to us a USB WiFi Adapter compatible with your flavor of Unix.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platform_Controller_Hub&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDEO4.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36079" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="ce092e43-4114-4d99-be00-abb694ab842d" CreationDate="2019-02-19T14:48:27.047" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10657" RevisionGUID="455f9ee4-89b8-4f20-ae90-e91c5362c21d" CreationDate="2019-02-19T15:50:25.383" UserId="10803" Text="I'm looking for laptop with following conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: up to 1.4 kg  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen: up to 13.3″ or up to 14″ if FullView screen,&#xD;&#xA;   at least Full HD resolution (1920х1080).  &#xD;&#xA; - RAM and SSD replacability (non soldered)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum perfomance&#xD;&#xA;   for applications, not games (AMD Ryzen prefereable)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Cost: around $1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most suitable laptops are Lenovo IdeaPad 720S-13ARR, Huawei MateBook 13 and Xiaomi Mi Notebook Air 12.5&quot;. But they all have soldered RAM, so I can't extend it if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are all ultrabook manufacturers making RAM on-chip ? Or is there any model with extensible SODIMM slot ? Maybe some OEM manufacturers do that, like Pegatron ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36083" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10657" RevisionGUID="455f9ee4-89b8-4f20-ae90-e91c5362c21d" CreationDate="2019-02-19T15:50:25.383" UserId="10803" Text="Lightweight laptop with non soldered RAM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36084" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10657" RevisionGUID="455f9ee4-89b8-4f20-ae90-e91c5362c21d" CreationDate="2019-02-19T15:50:25.383" UserId="10803" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10657" RevisionGUID="668ea222-e07f-48dc-853f-a3e2d54b5b0c" CreationDate="2019-02-19T16:08:16.907" UserId="10803" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptop with following conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: up to 1.4 kg  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen: up to 13.3″ or up to 14″ if FullView screen,&#xD;&#xA;   at least Full HD resolution (1920х1080).  &#xD;&#xA; - RAM and SSD replacability (non soldered)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum perfomance&#xD;&#xA;   for applications, not games (AMD Ryzen prefereable)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Cost: around $1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most suitable laptops are Lenovo IdeaPad 720S-13ARR, Asus ZenBook, Huawei MateBook 13 and Xiaomi Mi Notebook Air 12.5&quot;. But they all have soldered RAM, so I can't extend it if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are all ultrabook manufacturers making RAM on-chip ? Or is there any model with extensible SODIMM slot ? Maybe some OEM manufacturers do that, like Pegatron ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36086" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10657" RevisionGUID="a689ee0e-0eb1-48f4-8979-7459bd92a2ba" CreationDate="2019-02-19T16:17:03.887" UserId="10803" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptop with following conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: up to 1.4 kg  &#xD;&#xA; - Screen: up to 13.3″ or up to 14″ if FullView screen,&#xD;&#xA;   at least Full HD resolution (1920х1080).  &#xD;&#xA; - RAM and SSD replacability (non soldered)&#xD;&#xA; - Maximum perfomance&#xD;&#xA;   for applications, not games (AMD Ryzen prefereable)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - Cost: around $1000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most suitable laptops are Lenovo IdeaPad 720S-13ARR, Asus ZenBook, Acer SWIFT 5, Huawei MateBook 13 and Xiaomi Mi Notebook Air 12.5&quot;. But they all have soldered RAM, so I can't extend it if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are all ultrabook manufacturers making RAM on-chip ? Or is there any model with extensible SODIMM slot ? Maybe some OEM manufacturers do that, like Pegatron ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36087" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="35e13ab1-531d-451b-8d17-f3c16e84ec36" CreationDate="2019-02-19T19:03:35.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="5e4b7564-8ee9-4194-a37b-4f51c8659f45" CreationDate="2019-02-19T20:32:52.480" UserId="-1" Comment="Clarification." Text="I am trying to buy the most reliable case fan known to man. Reliable meaning, lasts the longest without dying **but still maintain good airflow**. In the search of this, I want to know whats the best bearing type so I know what case fan to buy. A good start might be, what does enterprise use? Dell/HP/IBM server use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you CJM for your comment, there is no other factors to consider.  The fan can be as loud as it wants.  **What is the longest lasting bearing type for a case fan and can maintain a decent amount of airflow?  The end.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36089" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="5e4b7564-8ee9-4194-a37b-4f51c8659f45" CreationDate="2019-02-19T20:32:52.480" Comment="Proposed by 108.225.160.188|1df4a918-d121-49d9-8d1e-ef4761cc33f1 approved by 10793 edit id of 804" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36090" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="ae8d0d91-e0c2-4c11-8792-b84c46170d8f" CreationDate="2019-02-20T01:01:25.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36091" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10472" RevisionGUID="898b2ef3-140c-4548-9e30-129850f67450" CreationDate="2019-02-20T08:23:05.247" UserId="9372" Comment="wording" Text="There are many models of bathroom scales around that will transmit body mass, body fat percentage etc. measurement to a mobile app or web-based client software for tracking and analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for **smart scales that function *offline***, without sending measurements over the Internet to a manufacturer's cloud servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is because I want:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. privacy, esp. for medically relevant personal data,&#xD;&#xA;2. simplicity,&#xD;&#xA;3. to use the scales in places without Internet (during travels, in low-infrastructure countries etc.),&#xD;&#xA;4. to not be afraid of losing the data and scales functions when the manufacturer chooses to close their cloud platform.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Scales that only work properly with a server half around the world are such a bad idea it should be *punished* …)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10658" RevisionGUID="8ec2a2cc-f999-4f49-bc77-b45d71e174da" CreationDate="2019-02-20T10:24:10.227" UserId="9731" Text="&gt; ... compiling hundreds or thousands of small files regularly. I'm trying to figure out which SSDs are fastest at that sort of workload (it's not often any of the files will be over 1Mb).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An Intel Optane 900P Series SSD (for a *consumer* drive at reasonable prices).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider all your options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Buy more memory. 16 gigabytes / 1 megabyte = 16,000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; If you only have 16 GB (or 8GB) of memory then buying more memory would be a good investment. Reading a file, even from a harddrive, is fairly quick; it's the conversion from text to assembly language and opcodes that takes processing effort, reading the files from memory is very fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; More memory allows more space to do the operations necessary to compile the source and allows for a larger swap file, staving off the need to fetch from storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; It also allows more breathing room for your program to execute and to have additional necessary programs running, speaking of which, close unnecessary programs during compilation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ***Any*** SSD will be much faster than a harddrive. You can buy an inexpensive and small SSD and be better off than using a harddrive for storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; A 250 GB SSD will hold your operating system, a couple of games, your compiler toolchain and plenty of source code. You can use your old harddrive as a secondary drive and to backup your SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Exactly which one to choose is mostly a matter of availability and price. A ***lot*** of what you are doing when writing the source code will involve very little disk activity. Once you get to the compilation that will involve reading the file, making **many** calculations as to how to optimize the output, and finally writing out the object file.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; If you have lots of existing source code that you want to compile and intend to spend next to no time writing then the need for faster storage becomes a consideration.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It depends on what you will be spending most of your time doing, arguably a CPU upgrade might be a greater benefit than memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**But** let's assume you have gone through the above considerations and crunched the numbers, you want your question answered, **as written**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- An Intel Optane SSD 900P Series (280GB, AIC PCIe x4, 3D XPoint) for approximately U$250 will provide an enormous speedup; **above and beyond** other SSDs. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [buy a no-name SSD for ~12% the price][1] of an Optane drive, or ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- buy one of the fastest non-Optane drives available ([Samsung 970 EVO Plus Series][2] - 1TB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD) and get 4x the capacity at the same price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **For laptop use** the slower [HP EX920][3] will extend your battery life per charge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AnandTech's [conclusion][4] is: the Optane is the fastest and most expensive, the not yet available [M.2 version of the SZ985][5] is untested and an unknown price (expected to be comparable to an Optane and less expensive), the [Samsung 970 EVO Plus][4] Series will either save you money or gain you 4x the capacity for equal money, and the least expensive [HP EX920][6] isn't far behind (or poor quality) and will save you U$100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/s?i=computers&amp;bbn=1292116011&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A1292110011%2Cn%3A1292116011%2Cp_36%3A2000-27000%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027458011&amp;s=price-asc-rank&amp;dc&amp;qid=1550655249&amp;rnid=6797515011&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_three_browse-bin_6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13037/the-hp-ex920-m2-ssd-review/8&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review/10&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/12580/samsung-reveals-m2-zssd&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13037/the-hp-ex920-m2-ssd-review" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36093" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10290" RevisionGUID="caafe3f3-adba-429e-a549-6ff18defcccc" CreationDate="2019-02-20T13:02:40.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="c03a1e32-3c1e-4773-91f0-ac2b776e4e93" CreationDate="2019-02-20T14:01:28.483" UserId="10793" Comment="deleted 187 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am trying to buy the most reliable case fan known to man. The Fans noise level can be as loud as it wants.  The fan has to have good enough airflow.  The fan has to last a long time.  Those are really the only requirements.  As far as size.. probably the most common sizes whatever that happens to be.  Size is not really important to me.  But if I was forced to pick a size, I would have to pick the most common as of right now.  Which seems to be:  120mm, 140mm, and 80mm seem to be the most common types as of right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good example, and I don't want people to dwell on this very much, is enterprise.  What type of fans does enterprise use?  I know IBM sometimes uses a company called Delta." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36096" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="c03a1e32-3c1e-4773-91f0-ac2b776e4e93" CreationDate="2019-02-20T14:01:28.483" UserId="10793" Comment="deleted 187 characters in body; edited title" Text="What is the most reliable computer case fan you can buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36100" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="4d4d2d74-ae6a-4c05-afd6-99d611385e9a" CreationDate="2019-02-20T17:27:46.713" UserId="10807" Text="I need a recommendation for a router that can sustain a network with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not connected to the internet&#xD;&#xA; - Spans around 30m x 30m of open indoor space.&#xD;&#xA; - Can sustain high bandwidth with low latency to a few dozen devices talking to each other over UDP unicasts and broadcasts.&#xD;&#xA; - Almost all devices are on WiFi, a handful are connected via LAN cables.&#xD;&#xA; - The WiFi will be 2.4 ghz due to devices that do not support 5 ghz.&#xD;&#xA; - Price is not the main deciding factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be happy to understand which parameters are important to look at when evaluating a router considering the above requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36101" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="4d4d2d74-ae6a-4c05-afd6-99d611385e9a" CreationDate="2019-02-20T17:27:46.713" UserId="10807" Text="High Performance Router for Closed Wifi Network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36102" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="4d4d2d74-ae6a-4c05-afd6-99d611385e9a" CreationDate="2019-02-20T17:27:46.713" UserId="10807" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="f4e7bc76-117f-4255-8774-a1e6409bd75e" CreationDate="2019-02-20T20:29:34.813" UserId="10793" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I am trying to buy the **most reliable** case fan known to man. The Fans noise level can be as loud as it wants.  The fan has to have **good enough airflow**.  The fan has to **last a long time**.  Those are really the only requirements.  As far as size.. probably the most common sizes whatever that happens to be.  Size is not really important to me.  But if I was forced to pick a size, I would have to pick the most common as of right now.  Which seems to be:  120mm, 140mm, and 80mm seem to be the most common types as of right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good example, and I don't want people to dwell on this very much, is enterprise.  What type of fans does enterprise use?  I know IBM sometimes uses a company called Delta." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36122" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="88175d3f-36be-46a0-b232-2d4625e3fccc" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:53:28.030" UserId="10793" Comment="deleted 684 characters in body; edited title" Text="delete me please 30 characters" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36123" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="88175d3f-36be-46a0-b232-2d4625e3fccc" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:53:28.030" UserId="10793" Comment="deleted 684 characters in body; edited title" Text="Delete me pretty please" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="188ca96d-6921-442c-b2b7-19275094333b" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:54:09.083" UserId="10793" Text="I am trying to buy the most reliable case fan known to man. The Fans noise level can be as loud as it wants. The fan has to have good enough airflow. The fan has to last a long time. Those are really the only requirements. As far as size.. probably the most common sizes whatever that happens to be. Size is not really important to me. But if I was forced to pick a size, I would have to pick the most common as of right now. Which seems to be: 120mm, 140mm, and 80mm seem to be the most common types as of right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good example, and I don't want people to dwell on this very much, is enterprise. What type of fans does enterprise use? I know IBM sometimes uses a company called Delta." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36125" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="188ca96d-6921-442c-b2b7-19275094333b" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:54:09.083" UserId="10793" Text="What is the most reliable computer case fan you can buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36126" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="188ca96d-6921-442c-b2b7-19275094333b" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:54:09.083" UserId="10793" Text="&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36127" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="fef467a8-5359-4a94-a353-25644f845f5f" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:42:29.437" UserId="57" Comment="Rollback to [f4e7bc76-117f-4255-8774-a1e6409bd75e]" Text="I am trying to buy the **most reliable** case fan known to man. The Fans noise level can be as loud as it wants.  The fan has to have **good enough airflow**.  The fan has to **last a long time**.  Those are really the only requirements.  As far as size.. probably the most common sizes whatever that happens to be.  Size is not really important to me.  But if I was forced to pick a size, I would have to pick the most common as of right now.  Which seems to be:  120mm, 140mm, and 80mm seem to be the most common types as of right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good example, and I don't want people to dwell on this very much, is enterprise.  What type of fans does enterprise use?  I know IBM sometimes uses a company called Delta." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36128" PostHistoryTypeId="7" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="fef467a8-5359-4a94-a353-25644f845f5f" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:42:29.437" UserId="57" Comment="Rollback to [f4e7bc76-117f-4255-8774-a1e6409bd75e]" Text="What is the most reliable computer case fan you can buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36129" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="7bcd4999-027d-4c7c-a909-c4ad353a6a34" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:43:20.243" UserId="57" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[10647],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1825" RevisionGUID="19df36c0-8514-4b2c-aeec-31a41cd0f13a" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:43:41.703" UserId="4495" Comment="broken image fixed (click 'rendered output' to see the difference); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="# Marshall Headphones&#xA;&#xA;[Marshall][1] offers headphones with detachable cord.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;The detachable double-ended coil cord with mic and remote is equipped with an L-plug end, providing improved durability and carrying ease. The dual 3.5 mm jacks allow you to choose which side you prefer to wear your cable on or to plug in and share your music with a friend.&#xA;&#xA;See the upper right corner panel in this picture. &#xA;&#xA;[![][2]][2]  &#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: [theawesomer.com](http://theawesomer.com/photos/2015/01/marshall_major_ii_headphones_1.jpg))&lt;/sub&gt;  &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.marshallheadphones.com&#xA; [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAnUt.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36131" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1825" RevisionGUID="19df36c0-8514-4b2c-aeec-31a41cd0f13a" CreationDate="2019-02-21T17:43:41.703" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 805" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36132" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10665" RevisionGUID="af8cb1c8-7a7c-4678-946c-da60f8a4e26d" CreationDate="2019-02-21T19:15:56.897" UserId="2081" Text="The &quot;routers&quot; that are available via the retail channel are not suitable for high demand type applications.  Additionally, you said that you already had a &quot;router&quot; that acted as a DHCP server so there's no point in getting another one.  All your need is a *wireless access point or WAP*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the [Ubiquiti UniFi AC Pro][1], not only for my clients, but in my home as well.  It's one of the best and most reliable WAPs I have used and is priced at around $150 which is comparable to a high end &quot;retail router.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* POE (Power Over Ethernet)&#xD;&#xA;* Enhanced MIMO (Multi Input, Multi Output) technologies&#xD;&#xA;* Up to 200 client connections&#xD;&#xA;* 2.4GH and 5GHz radios&#xD;&#xA;* Multiple SSID support&#xD;&#xA;* VLAN support&#xD;&#xA;* Bandwidth profiles&#xD;&#xA;* Guest networks and hotspot support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get a [full datasheet][2] that describes the specifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Disable the WiFi on your existing retail router&#xD;&#xA;2. Run a network cable from your router to the location(s) where you want the APs.  These are designed to be ceiling or wall mounted.  With wireless, the clearer the line of sight the better (this is why table top &quot;routers&quot; are sketchy at best).&#xD;&#xA;3. Using the included software, configure the AP with your SSID, encryption keys, VLAN's etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that without doing a site survey, it's possible you may need more than one AP given what obstructions (i.e. walls, large furniture, RF generating equipment, etc. - WiFi is still subject to the laws of physics).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clients will associate with the WAP and get their IP from the existing &quot;router&quot; with DHCP server because in essence all you're doing is &quot;upgrading&quot; the cheap WiFi chipset and radio bundled with your router for an &quot;industrial strength&quot; one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://radnex.us/Ubiquiti-Unifi-802-11c-UAP-AC-PRO-US&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/unifi/UniFi_AC_APs_DS.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10665" RevisionGUID="f0ae5dfb-789c-4a5d-8a7f-b811285915e7" CreationDate="2019-02-21T19:23:26.180" UserId="2081" Comment="added 479 characters in body" Text="The &quot;routers&quot; that are available via the retail channel are not suitable for high demand type applications.  Additionally, you said that you already had a &quot;router&quot; that acted as a DHCP server so there's no point in getting another one.  All your need is a *wireless access point or WAP*.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the [Ubiquiti UniFi AC Pro][1], not only for my clients, but in my home as well.  It's one of the best and most reliable WAPs I have used and is priced at around $150 which is comparable to a high end &quot;retail router.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBWcb.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot; title=&quot;Ubiquiti AC Pro&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Key Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* POE (Power Over Ethernet)&#xD;&#xA;* Enhanced MIMO (Multi Input, Multi Output) technologies&#xD;&#xA;* Up to 200 client connections&#xD;&#xA;* 2.4GH and 5GHz radios&#xD;&#xA;* Multiple SSID support&#xD;&#xA;* VLAN support&#xD;&#xA;* Bandwidth profiles&#xD;&#xA;* Guest networks and hotspot support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get more information as well as a full [full datasheet][3] from their [website][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Solution**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Disable the WiFi on your existing retail router&#xD;&#xA;2. Run a network cable from your router to the location(s) where you want the APs.  These are designed to be ceiling or wall mounted.  With wireless, the clearer the line of sight the better (this is why table top &quot;routers&quot; are sketchy at best).&#xD;&#xA;3. Using the included software, configure the AP with your SSID, encryption keys, VLAN's etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that without doing a site survey, it's possible you may need more than one AP given what obstructions (i.e. walls, large furniture, RF generating equipment, etc. - WiFi is still subject to the laws of physics).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Clients will associate with the WAP and get their IP from the existing &quot;router&quot; with DHCP server because in essence all you're doing is &quot;upgrading&quot; the cheap WiFi chipset and radio bundled with your router for an &quot;industrial strength&quot; one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personal note... I had this exact WAP support about a dozen guests (including children)  at my home with most streaming Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, etc. and they outstripped my Internet bandwidth before this AP got bogged down (the software comes with reporting capabilities).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://radnex.us/Ubiquiti-Unifi-802-11c-UAP-AC-PRO-US&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBWcb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/unifi/UniFi_AC_APs_DS.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ui.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10638" RevisionGUID="941b32c6-f191-4436-8e6d-3d06a409ec79" CreationDate="2019-02-21T22:33:54.167" UserId="9887" Comment="Added images for clarification" Text="I found pudding keycaps, [e.g.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Pudding][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I found blank keycaps, [e.g.][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Blank][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know whether there also exist blank pudding keycaps?&#xD;&#xA;I created a sample (please forgive my editing skills):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Blank pudding][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For further reference, I live in Germany and have Cherry MX switches in my Lioncast LK 30 keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://flashquark.com/product/pbt-pudding-keycaps-black-and-white-oem-profile-104-keys/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBQec.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/max-ansi-104-key-cherry-mx-full-replacement-keycap-set-blank.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gln5F.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKUre.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36139" PostHistoryTypeId="38" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="0afe4c19-fc1d-42de-b2ee-1fb695f64640" CreationDate="2019-02-21T23:41:38.377" UserId="8" Comment="from https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10664/what-is-the-most-reliable-computer-case-fan-you-can-buy" />
  <row Id="36140" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="0afe4c19-fc1d-42de-b2ee-1fb695f64640" CreationDate="2019-02-21T23:41:38.377" UserId="8" Comment="to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10647/what-is-the-most-reliable-computer-case-fan-you-can-buy" />
  <row Id="36141" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="10664" RevisionGUID="911ddd95-1d38-4e1f-ba7c-8b5be206b154" CreationDate="2019-02-21T23:41:38.377" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36155" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10670" RevisionGUID="566fbed6-4030-4a50-b982-0af6709de81c" CreationDate="2019-02-22T03:51:22.190" UserId="10441" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have to purchase a workstation at office. I have very little knowledge about hardware and what config (GPU, Memory, Processor) should I take so that it has enough hardware to work with state of the art things such as CNN, good graphics and visualization softwares and development, high end image processing tools and development such as reconstructions. &#xD;&#xA;Budget is around 15k to 17k USD. Budget is for hardware only&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using mostly open source libraries for Machine learning and Image processing. I am looking out for a workstation which should do good working with 1000s of images of each size 10 MB and resolution max could be 2k by 2k. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or in otherway can you please suggest a good PC which will run Libraries and platforms like tensorflow, Keras etc. for pattern recognition and also for practicing and developing Computed Tomography Reconstruction algorithms.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36156" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10670" RevisionGUID="566fbed6-4030-4a50-b982-0af6709de81c" CreationDate="2019-02-22T03:51:22.190" UserId="10441" Text="What specification of a workstation shall I look for to be used for Machine learning and Reconstruction?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36157" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10670" RevisionGUID="566fbed6-4030-4a50-b982-0af6709de81c" CreationDate="2019-02-22T03:51:22.190" UserId="10441" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36158" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10670" RevisionGUID="ac5e165c-b2d6-4253-b2e2-05fba0a483b8" CreationDate="2019-02-22T09:02:29.287" UserId="10441" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I have to purchase a workstation at office. I have very little knowledge about hardware and what config (GPU, Memory, Processor) should I take so that it has enough hardware to work with state of the art things such as CNN, good graphics and visualization softwares and development, high end image processing tools and development such as reconstructions. &#xD;&#xA;Budget is around 15k to 17k USD. Budget is for hardware only&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using mostly open source libraries for Machine learning and Image processing. I am looking out for a workstation which should do good working with 1000s of images of each size 10 MB and resolution max could be 2k by 2k. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or in otherway can you please suggest a good workstation which will run Libraries and platforms like tensorflow, Keras etc. for pattern recognition and also for practicing and developing Computed Tomography Reconstruction algorithms.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36163" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10672" RevisionGUID="6e8d8cae-f4e4-466b-8678-7bfc51626ff3" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:27:02.633" UserId="106" Text="I am very satisfied with these &quot;NC-25&quot; headphones  &#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Cancelling-Headphones-Bluetooth-Wireless-Srhythm/dp/B0797NS5WB   &#xA;They are both Bluetooth or wired (with detachable cable), easy to use, foldable, over-ear, have noise-canceling, come with a classy compact sturdy case, cost 59.99$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36164" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10672" RevisionGUID="dcebe2af-4258-4b5b-b227-3254c22e133e" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:32:10.703" UserId="106" Comment="added 108 characters in body; added 86 characters in body" Text="I am very satisfied with these &quot;NC-25&quot; headphones  &#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Cancelling-Headphones-Bluetooth-Wireless-Srhythm/dp/B0797NS5WB   &#xA;They are both Bluetooth or wired (with detachable cable), easy to use, foldable, over-ear, have noise-canceling, come with a classy compact sturdy case, cost 59.99$   &#xA;   &#xA;I wear them most of the time when working, without music, only for the quietness of noise-canceling.  &#xA;I also found that they help a lot to get some rest during long distance travel, etc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36165" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="6644bd56-c449-4816-a72f-a695ae075bb2" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:37:00.640" UserId="2081" Comment="narrowed down scope based on comments" Text="I need a recommendation for a wireless access point (WAP) that can sustain a network with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Not connected to the internet&#xD;&#xA; - Spans around 30m x 30m of open indoor space.&#xD;&#xA; - Can sustain high bandwidth with low latency to a few dozen devices talking to each other over UDP unicasts and broadcasts.&#xD;&#xA; - Almost all devices are on WiFi, a handful are connected via LAN cables.&#xD;&#xA; - The WiFi will be 2.4GHz due to devices that do not support 5Ghz.&#xD;&#xA; - Price is not the main deciding factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd be happy to understand which parameters are important to look at when evaluating a router considering the above requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36166" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="6644bd56-c449-4816-a72f-a695ae075bb2" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:37:00.640" UserId="2081" Comment="narrowed down scope based on comments" Text="High Performance Wireless Access Point r for Closed WiFi Network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36167" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="6644bd56-c449-4816-a72f-a695ae075bb2" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:37:00.640" Comment="Proposed by 2081 approved by 57 edit id of 806" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="6a8824fc-06cd-4ef2-a84e-7369b7913948" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:37:03.627" UserId="38" Comment="Cleaned up grammar, spelling, formatting" Text="##LG gram 14z980&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B32P1PJ/ref=emc_b_5_t&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually I use LG gram 15z980 to write this answer. I recommend the 15'' version since it has number pad, convenient when entering a lot numbers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Price: $959.98 (I didn't check other sites)&#xD;&#xA;- Weight: 2.2 lbs = 0.997 kg&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  Very very very light&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: 8th Gen. Intel Core i5&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  Enough for latex, I also use TeXStudio every day.&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB RAM&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  You could add your own, much cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;- No disk drive&#xD;&#xA;- 256 GB SSD&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  That's due to your price requirement, but you could add your own SSD and RAM to it, too! I also bought the cheapest version and added another 500 GB SSD and 8 GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;- 1 USB C, 2 USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;  So at least two USB type-A ports.&#xD;&#xA;- Battery is very very good: 21.5 hours according to the page.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;  I bring it to school everyday without charger.&#xD;&#xA;- It has Windows 10 Home. Now I use Ubuntu 18.04 on it for better coding, the only drawback is the fingerprint sensor which doesn't work under it. All other things are fine.&#xD;&#xA;- It's light and without a dedicated GPU, so you could foucs on office work, LaTex, Java coding (for me it's Python) etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the Lg gram 2019 version is on its way (CPU+10% approximately, all with Thunderbolt), but it depends on you. From my perspective the 2018 version is enough. It may save some money to buy the 2018 version when the 2019 version  gets released, though. I'm not sure about that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36169" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="6a8824fc-06cd-4ef2-a84e-7369b7913948" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:37:03.627" Comment="Proposed by 38 approved by 57 edit id of 808" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36173" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10673" RevisionGUID="66ddd01f-fd43-4e2b-b9cc-6bef68870a2c" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:41:44.077" UserId="106" Text="Let me introduce you to the legendary [Datahand][1] keyboard.    &#xA;  &#xA;![enter link description here][2]&#xA;   &#xA;It is said to be the most wrist-friendly as you are only supposed to move slightly fingers when using it. You can configure it in the most comfortable position for you.    &#xA;   &#xA;![enter link description here][3]&#xA;   &#xA;  &#xA;Unfortunately, its production has been discontinued, it is hard to find.   &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DataHand&#xA;&#xA;  [2]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b5/DataHand_overhead_view.jpg&#xA;&#xA;  [3]: http://octopup.org/img/computer/datahand/m/20021103-0000-P45Q9--Datahand--Chair.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36174" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10673" RevisionGUID="494caf47-8cf9-45db-af28-8cfdc45dfe46" CreationDate="2019-02-22T13:47:08.430" UserId="106" Comment="deleted 48 characters in body" Text="Let me introduce you to the legendary [Datahand][1] keyboard.    &#xA;  &#xA;![enter link description here][2]&#xA;   &#xA;It is said to be the most wrist-friendly as you are only supposed to move slightly fingers when using it. You can configure it in the most comfortable position for you.    &#xA;   &#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xA;  &#xA;Unfortunately, its production has been discontinued, it is hard to find.   &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DataHand&#xA;  [2]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b5/DataHand_overhead_view.jpg&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GObmi.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36175" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7984" RevisionGUID="bbbfa332-2b60-4b27-a649-1c0ce8c86b48" CreationDate="2019-02-22T18:02:45.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36181" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10660" RevisionGUID="a010b938-3386-4186-b6dc-9b1e7f67e2a9" CreationDate="2019-02-22T20:15:43.970" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="High Performance Wireless Access Point for Closed WiFi Network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36182" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10670" RevisionGUID="e19693ad-2c56-4ec8-bcfc-058fc2310c73" CreationDate="2019-02-22T20:17:21.757" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[10340],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10675" RevisionGUID="5fb2b3c7-0964-4b95-bc92-27f5ba980b23" CreationDate="2019-02-22T21:40:56.203" UserId="10819" Text="Unfortunately, all options are rather bad. I think option 3 is somewhat acceptable given the circumstances, but it is overpriced for western prices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I would recommend to expand your search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram of your GPU is also important. Otherwise you cannot train larger models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very good guide: http://timdettmers.com/2018/12/16/deep-learning-hardware-guide/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10675" RevisionGUID="3005bb75-30f3-4a90-b8bb-24c019509140" CreationDate="2019-02-22T21:47:06.437" UserId="10819" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="Unfortunately, all options are rather bad. I think option 3 is somewhat acceptable given the circumstances. However, I would recommend to expand your search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram of your GPU is also important 1050 has only 2GB, which is not enough. Otherwise you cannot train most models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a very good guide: http://timdettmers.com/2018/12/16/deep-learning-hardware-guide/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="4062375a-cac4-45d2-90c2-f52b63b7070b" CreationDate="2019-02-22T22:33:08.553" UserId="10793" Comment="[Edit removed during grace period]" Text="I am trying to buy the **most reliable** case fan known to man. The Fans noise level can be as loud as it wants.  The fan has to have **good enough airflow**.  The fan has to **last a long time**.  Those are really the only requirements.  As far as size.. probably the most common sizes whatever that happens to be.  Size is not really important to me.  But if I was forced to pick a size, I would have to pick the most common as of right now.  Which seems to be:  120mm, 140mm, and 80mm seem to be the most common types as of right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A good example, and I don't want people to dwell on this very much, is enterprise.  What type of fans does enterprise use?  I know IBM sometimes uses a company called Delta." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36199" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="c9f8f85c-0d08-4ccb-9f3e-abf9c0570111" CreationDate="2019-02-23T10:41:27.647" UserId="1410" Comment="added 225 characters in body" Text="I am trying to design an employee tracking system, to track employees from room to room, for saftey purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Somewhat obviously, if requires each tracked person to carry a device which uniquely identifies them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which will obviously have to be battery powered, with enough battery life to last a full working shift, let's say 12 hours?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is becoming apparent that I am looking at Bluetooth Low Energy – unless someone can make a compelling argument for WiFi, ZigBee., etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, bear in mind that the device and battery must be worn in an industrial environment, so should be robust, and also easy to charge when needed – at worst overnight, ready for the next shift.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device need only identify itself, as it passes various access points (presumably by pairing with them, or offering to do so?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking at the [List of Bluetooth profiles]( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles) , I am guessing at  the [Proximity Profile (PXPP)]( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Proximity_Profile_(PXP)) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, what I do not want – close as it is - is a cheap sports/fitness band. What I would like is something very like that :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	Rubber wrist band – nice to have, but not mandatory&#xD;&#xA;-	Rugged &amp; robust – is quite important&#xD;&#xA;-	Button/cell battery – for small form fit&#xD;&#xA;-	***NO*** built in apps, e.g. health / fitness&#xD;&#xA;-	It would be nice if I were able to load my own software. For instance, to vibrate the band remotely, or display messages. What I don’t want is lots of built-in fitness tracker  stuff, which is not associated with my system&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Flora Wearable Bluefruit LE Module]( https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/flora-wearable-bluefruit-le-module) looks good, but &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	 it’s not totally off the shelf  : “Sew 4 traces (or solder 4 wires)”&#xD;&#xA;-	There is no indication of battery life (although I don’t expect any problems with BTLE)&#xD;&#xA;-	I would prefer something worn on the wrist, but could live with this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the plus side it seems easy to program “After you connect to the Bluefruit, you can send commands wirelessly in under 10 minutes”. Also, “Built in over-the-air bootloading capability so we can keep you updated with the hottest new firmware. Use any Android or iOS device to get updates and install them” seems a big plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other cheap (preferably sub $50) wrist wearable which is programmable, preferably with a snap-in coin/cell battery?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I now have a strong preference for BT 5, rather than v4, but can't seem to find any. The reason being that the BT 5 spec has provisions for proximity, which could save me a lot of effort on triangulation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36204" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="10647" RevisionGUID="d09e6323-a2fa-4f87-881c-cd2fb41d5148" CreationDate="2019-02-24T06:36:34.683" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36214" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="ce4b09f2-7174-41fc-b46b-08d72854e27d" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:03:55.710" UserId="3671" Text="I'm searching for a USB wifi card which allows me to inject packages at a high rate (&gt;6Mbit/s), as well as monitor them in Linux. If possible it should also support a high MTU (2300). Also, good or opensource drivers are needed as I need to get it running on an embedded ARM board.&#xD;&#xA;Should be relatively small and lightweight and quite cheap as I need a lot of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EU Market&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about fancy features like Hardware Crypto and 5G.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I search for a card which I can give a buffer and say:&#xD;&#xA;Please send this on Channel x with a bitrate of y and the card will do it.&#xD;&#xA;As well as say please listen on channel x with a bitrate of y and give me everything you receive, no matter how garbled it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know two chipsets which work fine for my application, but one is discontinued (ralink rt2770f) and the other is PCIex not USB (Intel® Wireless-AC 9560)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36215" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="ce4b09f2-7174-41fc-b46b-08d72854e27d" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:03:55.710" UserId="3671" Text="USB Wifi card for Packet injection/Monitor mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36216" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="ce4b09f2-7174-41fc-b46b-08d72854e27d" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:03:55.710" UserId="3671" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="49fd6a27-7c9c-4682-8e63-13d4c52dc39e" CreationDate="2019-02-24T23:11:55.543" UserId="10829" Text="17 inches. i7 can play overwatch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bigger screen the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;resolution full HD 1920 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional detail similar to this guy&#xD;&#xA;from: https://www.reddit.com/r/SuggestALaptop/comments/auc5am/i_want_to_buy_laptop_for_my_daughter/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Total budget and country of purchase:** Indonesia. Budget $1k to $2k&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications for the money? Pick or include any that apply.** Prefer&#xD;&#xA;* **How important is weight and thinness to you?** Not much&#xD;&#xA;* **Which OS do you require? Windows, Mac, Chrome OS, Linux.** Windows&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.** 17 inch or larger full HD&#xD;&#xA;* **Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run.** Gaming. Video editing. CAD&#xD;&#xA;* **If you're gaming, do you have certain games you want to play? At what settings and FPS do you want?** Overwatch. Full HD. 60 FPS. But 30 is okay&#xD;&#xA;* **Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)?** Nothing. Touch screen is awesome but not necessary&#xD;&#xA;* **Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.** Anything you wish" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="49fd6a27-7c9c-4682-8e63-13d4c52dc39e" CreationDate="2019-02-24T23:11:55.543" UserId="10829" Text="Please recommend a gaming laptop for my daughter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="49fd6a27-7c9c-4682-8e63-13d4c52dc39e" CreationDate="2019-02-24T23:11:55.543" UserId="10829" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10682" RevisionGUID="b551e082-a1aa-4c16-9989-9d91130fc4cd" CreationDate="2019-02-25T00:27:52.200" UserId="6047" Text="[MSI GL63 8SE-054 | Rp26,352,888 + Rp594,142 Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![MSI GL63 8SE-054 ][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This machine is more than capable of playing the most computationally intensive of triple AAA titles at stable fps with features specifically tuned to gaming (anti-ghosting keyboard) and ready to ship to Indonesia today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RTX 2060 6 GB&#xD;&#xA; - i7-8750H&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB Memory&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - 128 GB NVMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - FHD @ 120 Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/id-en/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB8UJ9875&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/voL71.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10684" RevisionGUID="52347b4a-0c26-407a-83c9-cab2d0bbf725" CreationDate="2019-02-25T09:50:10.773" UserId="1007" Text="For the consumer side I would recommend a [Noctua industrial series][1] fan. I can't say much about the enterprise products as I am not familiar with them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/industrial" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10675" RevisionGUID="0e5c5cda-bc2a-4590-a126-56f316a51603" CreationDate="2019-02-25T13:51:10.323" UserId="6047" Comment="Grammar, link conversion" Text="Unfortunately, all options are rather bad. I think option 3 is somewhat acceptable given the circumstances. I would recommend expanding your search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram of your GPU is also important. The 1050 has only 2GB, which is not enough. You'll need more, otherwise you cannot train most models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more details, [here is a deep learning hardware guide](http://timdettmers.com/2018/12/16/deep-learning-hardware-guide/)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36230" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10675" RevisionGUID="0e5c5cda-bc2a-4590-a126-56f316a51603" CreationDate="2019-02-25T13:51:10.323" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 10819 edit id of 810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10675" RevisionGUID="21e90cb6-bb2b-4fed-9707-29b60933667a" CreationDate="2019-02-25T14:17:28.650" UserId="10819" Comment="added 130 characters in body" Text="Unfortunately, all options are rather bad. I think option 3 is somewhat acceptable given the circumstances. I would recommend expanding your search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ram of your GPU is also important. The 1050 has only 2GB, which is not enough. You'll need more, otherwise you cannot train most models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you buy a GPU and install it in a available computer in your institute (this is rather easy and could save a lot of money)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For more details, [here is a deep learning hardware guide](http://timdettmers.com/2018/12/16/deep-learning-hardware-guide/)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36236" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="698becc4-23d0-4ba1-8950-9f78f1ecfc67" CreationDate="2019-02-25T18:40:16.617" UserId="10739" Comment="Added Tag gaming" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36237" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="698becc4-23d0-4ba1-8950-9f78f1ecfc67" CreationDate="2019-02-25T18:40:16.617" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 811" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36239" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10152" RevisionGUID="7bb48225-cc97-492d-8595-533470ec9f76" CreationDate="2019-02-25T19:59:11.613" UserId="10739" Comment="Added Tag adapter" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;floppy-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36240" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10152" RevisionGUID="7bb48225-cc97-492d-8595-533470ec9f76" CreationDate="2019-02-25T19:59:11.613" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 812" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36249" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5543" RevisionGUID="97ec9430-bad4-440c-9fb0-a6e22220c268" CreationDate="2019-02-26T15:55:04.330" UserId="10739" Comment="Added Tag wifi" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36250" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5543" RevisionGUID="97ec9430-bad4-440c-9fb0-a6e22220c268" CreationDate="2019-02-26T15:55:04.330" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36259" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10680" RevisionGUID="77d81e62-67f2-4c9f-9e43-67c1ddd5cbbb" CreationDate="2019-02-27T13:20:22.427" UserId="10829" Comment="added 384 characters in body" Text="17 inches. i7 can play overwatch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bigger screen the better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;resolution full HD 1920 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional detail similar to this guy&#xD;&#xA;from: https://www.reddit.com/r/SuggestALaptop/comments/auc5am/i_want_to_buy_laptop_for_my_daughter/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Total budget and country of purchase:** Indonesia. Budget $1k to $2k&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications for the money? Pick or include any that apply.** Prefer&#xD;&#xA;* **How important is weight and thinness to you?** Not much&#xD;&#xA;* **Which OS do you require? Windows, Mac, Chrome OS, Linux.** Windows&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.** 17 inch or larger full HD&#xD;&#xA;* **Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run.** Gaming. Video editing. CAD&#xD;&#xA;* **If you're gaming, do you have certain games you want to play? At what settings and FPS do you want?** Overwatch. Full HD. 60 FPS. But 30 is okay&#xD;&#xA;* **Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)?** Nothing. Touch screen is awesome but not necessary&#xD;&#xA;* **Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.** Anything you wish&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reddit recommends&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/apasuscomputer78/msi-gp73-8re-467-i7-8750h-8gb-256gb-1tb-gtx1060-6gb-w10?trkid=f=Ca0000L144,146,150,151,167,168,171,174,175,176,177,178,463P0W0S0Sh00Co0Po0Fr0Cb0_src=search_page=1_ob=3_q=MSI+GP73_bmexp=18_po=1_catid=289_bmexp=18&amp;lt=/searchproduct%20-%20p1%20-%20product MSI GP73. Unless I found better one I am going to go with that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36264" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="1818" RevisionGUID="0a4e4a3e-ca57-4647-a8c8-3c2c3d6144cb" CreationDate="2019-02-27T18:16:32.667" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36265" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10690" RevisionGUID="af475202-2177-4907-a8e1-4b8c1aedbbf1" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:11:02.293" UserId="6310" Text="I am looking for a pci-express usb otg adapter (or some other way) so I can do some experimenting with gadgetfs (usb device) on my desktop Linux computer. usb type c is not suitable as it uses different drivers and has a different api.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a couple of older (ACIX MCS9990, IsP1362 Pci/Linux OtG evaluation kit ) boards around that used to support it, but I have not been able to find a source for these boards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36266" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10690" RevisionGUID="af475202-2177-4907-a8e1-4b8c1aedbbf1" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:11:02.293" UserId="6310" Text="destop (pci-express?) to usb otg adapter (linux)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36267" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10690" RevisionGUID="af475202-2177-4907-a8e1-4b8c1aedbbf1" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:11:02.293" UserId="6310" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10694" RevisionGUID="2248efa2-e858-4b97-a510-c85e8fe15412" CreationDate="2019-02-28T13:58:55.690" UserId="5440" Text="The LG Gram 2018 (13.3 or 14 inches) should be what you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 2018 lineup has one soldered memory slot and one socketed memory slot which is replaceable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example the [**LG Gram 13Z980**][1] model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the Crucial compatible upgrades page for it: https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/LG-Electronics/lg-gram-13z980&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2ED6dxe" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10695" RevisionGUID="da814c3d-8a01-47cb-946b-81a983c94e68" CreationDate="2019-02-28T14:16:03.543" UserId="5440" Text="The **Detroit DIY Electronics Wifi-5370-Antenna** might be an option: http://detroit-electronics.com/Wifi_Adapter_Dongle_For_Raspberry_Pi/wifi-for-raspberry-pi-antenna&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Chipset: RT5370&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Great for ethical hacking projects (this model supports packet injection)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36289" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10690" RevisionGUID="21b0606c-95d0-45cb-af24-5b0b965fc0e2" CreationDate="2019-03-01T18:03:14.567" UserId="6310" Comment="edited title" Text="desktop (pci-express?) to usb otg adapter (linux)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36293" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="519d5e15-cb7e-4c23-b416-c5656e67b0e3" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:10:42.760" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://superuser.com/questions/1410692/verizon-fios-quantum-gateway-replacement-power-supply" />
  <row Id="36294" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="1a8d3c26-7508-43a1-89aa-65e138652282" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:07:24.133" UserDisplayName="jww" Text="We have Verizon service with a FIOS Quantum Gateway router model FIOS-G1100. The power wart is going bad and we need to replace it. On occasion the device looses power. Putting a meter on the barrel connector shows no potential. Beating the power wart on the floor restores the connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [Fios Quantum Gateway USER GUIDE](https://www.verizon.com/cs/groups/public/documents/adacct/fqgrouter-userguide.pdf), p 210, the power supply is 12V DC 3.0A. However it does not list a part number or specification for the barrel connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the part number for the power supply? Or, what is the specification on the barrel connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(The power wart is so fragile I don't want to unplug it for fear it will die completely)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36295" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="1a8d3c26-7508-43a1-89aa-65e138652282" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:07:24.133" UserDisplayName="jww" Text="Verizon FIOS Quantum Gateway replacement power supply?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36296" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="1a8d3c26-7508-43a1-89aa-65e138652282" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:07:24.133" UserDisplayName="jww" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10698" RevisionGUID="ea4367f9-ca27-42dd-948b-caeb2098c9c4" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:13:03.600" UserId="531" Text="A [quick search for FIOS-G1100 *power adaptor*][1] suggests its a KSAS0361200300HU made by ktech power. There's an [amazon link here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bing.com/search?q=power%20adapter%20for%20fios%20g1100&amp;qs=RI&amp;pq=fios-g1100%20power%20&amp;sk=SC1&amp;sc=3-17&amp;cvid=89061528E03E45AFAFA5432017FA3FE8&amp;FORM=QBRE&amp;sp=2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-AC1750-Gateway-Original-Adapter/dp/B01I0A3HS8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36298" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10698" RevisionGUID="a0c65f9c-ede4-492b-ad13-b82c0a68afe7" CreationDate="2019-03-02T08:21:04.570" UserId="531" Comment="added 206 characters in body" Text="A [quick search for FIOS-G1100 *power adaptor*][1] suggests its a KSAS0361200300HU made by ktech power. There's an [amazon link here][2]. Its designed for that model - I can't quite tell what the barrel size is and you can tell the barrel polarity from the amazon image as being center positive, if you wanted to get an equivilent replacement&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.bing.com/search?q=power%20adapter%20for%20fios%20g1100&amp;qs=RI&amp;pq=fios-g1100%20power%20&amp;sk=SC1&amp;sc=3-17&amp;cvid=89061528E03E45AFAFA5432017FA3FE8&amp;FORM=QBRE&amp;sp=2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-AC1750-Gateway-Original-Adapter/dp/B01I0A3HS8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10331" RevisionGUID="f2130205-46ea-4287-8bfb-579dd950de9e" CreationDate="2019-03-03T19:02:30.540" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36311" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="105949ce-0b13-4f4f-bdd5-135a93eeb69f" CreationDate="2019-03-03T20:02:25.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10702" RevisionGUID="05d39cd9-7376-47aa-9eef-b087d53cd787" CreationDate="2019-03-04T16:00:31.447" UserId="10856" Text="I'm looking for a docking station to read some old hard drives. The hard drives are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Maxtor Diamond Plus 9 &#xD;&#xA; - Maxtor Diamond VL 40 5400 RPM &#xD;&#xA; - Samsung SP1213C&#xD;&#xA; - WD400BB-32CXA0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36319" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10702" RevisionGUID="05d39cd9-7376-47aa-9eef-b087d53cd787" CreationDate="2019-03-04T16:00:31.447" UserId="10856" Text="Hard drive docking station recommendation for old hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36320" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10702" RevisionGUID="05d39cd9-7376-47aa-9eef-b087d53cd787" CreationDate="2019-03-04T16:00:31.447" UserId="10856" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10703" RevisionGUID="d3fda070-2996-4124-a696-d39b9cc97e5d" CreationDate="2019-03-04T19:36:01.930" UserId="2081" Text="If it's just for just for reading some hard drives as you stated in your requirements, a simple universal USB to SATA adapter is more than enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These have both IDE and SATA interfaces as well as an external power brick to to provide the power that desktop drives need. Most are able to support both 3.5&quot; (desktop) and 2.5&quot; (laptop) drives.  USB 3.0 ensures fast data transfers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have this model in my desk right now:  [UNITEK USB 3.0 to IDE &amp; SATA Converter][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one is not the cheapest, but at less than $30, it's very reasonable.  I've bough cheaper and have had them  fail within a short time.  I've been using this one for about 3 years now so it's definitely worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://radnex.us/USB3-IDE-SATA-Adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10707" RevisionGUID="1e0c5f7d-33aa-4579-96f8-5a0f5afc4c3c" CreationDate="2019-03-05T17:22:39.490" UserId="10866" Text="I have an old desktop which do not have a harddisk. It has Lian Feng 2651 30awg cable attached to motherboard. Can someone suggest which harddisk should I buy for it?&#xD;&#xA;I live in India so an Indian reference (website, shop, etc) would be really helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8K92.jpg)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36334" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10707" RevisionGUID="1e0c5f7d-33aa-4579-96f8-5a0f5afc4c3c" CreationDate="2019-03-05T17:22:39.490" UserId="10866" Text="Hard disk help required" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36335" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10707" RevisionGUID="1e0c5f7d-33aa-4579-96f8-5a0f5afc4c3c" CreationDate="2019-03-05T17:22:39.490" UserId="10866" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10711" RevisionGUID="b754ee3c-05ed-4645-bb7f-dbbdd5825e55" CreationDate="2019-03-06T00:00:52.563" UserId="10869" Text="Given the number of video projectors on the market today, I'm looking for some recommendations. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the features I need: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4K-ready&#xD;&#xA;- image quality should be still good during daytime (the room will never be pitch black. It will be mostly used at night though)&#xD;&#xA;- will be projected on white light-filtering roll-down shades (I am aware that this is absolutely not ideal, but I'm looking for minimal setup/gear)&#xD;&#xA;- could be short-throw or mounted to the ceiling (room depth = 12')&#xD;&#xA;- given the room setup, 70&quot; image is enough&#xD;&#xA;- if speakers are built-in that's great, otherwise, I need to be able to connect a wireless home theater system&#xD;&#xA;- price range up to $3,000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I've seen those ones often mentioned: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Epson Home Cinema LS100 3LCD Ultra Short-throw Projector, Digital Laser Display with Full HD and 100% Color Brightness&#xD;&#xA;- Epson Home Cinema 5040UB 3LCD Home Theater Projector with 4K Enhancement, HDR10, 100% Balanced Color and White Brightness, Ultra Wide DCI-P3 Color Gamut and UltraBlack Contrast&#xD;&#xA;- Optoma UHD50 4K Ultra High Definition Home Theater Projector&#xD;&#xA;- LG HU80KA 4K UHD Laser Smart TV Home Theater CineBeam Projector 2500 Lumens &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36345" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10711" RevisionGUID="b754ee3c-05ed-4645-bb7f-dbbdd5825e55" CreationDate="2019-03-06T00:00:52.563" UserId="10869" Text="What's the best home movie projector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36346" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10711" RevisionGUID="b754ee3c-05ed-4645-bb7f-dbbdd5825e55" CreationDate="2019-03-06T00:00:52.563" UserId="10869" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36354" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10713" RevisionGUID="7cab4ee1-4983-4b2c-9417-d2b2e908cacd" CreationDate="2019-03-06T13:44:02.073" UserId="24" Text="It is not a &quot;Lian Feng 2651 30awg&quot; cable, it is an ordinary [PATA][1] cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They've came out in multiple versions, floppies and very early IDE hard disks had a shorter one. But, on your photo it is visible that you have the older ones (since around 20 years). These had 40, or more later 80 wires. These are interchangeable, however using a later, 80-wire capable PATA hard disk with a 40-wire cable will be slower. The photo shows a 40-wire cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beware, some floppy cables and SCSI cables look very similarly, but the count of the wires are different on them. If you want to make it sure, simply count the wires on the cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Practically no PATA hard disk is manufactured any more. If it is, you can't pay its price due to the low production numbers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Find an old &quot;PATA hard disk&quot; on the ebay or in any old hardware store. Most likely it will be the cheapest.&#xD;&#xA;2. You can use a [PATA-SATA converter][2] to attach the current SATA hard disks to your PATA motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;3. You can also insert a SATA hdd controller PCI card into your computer, also these are available from around $10. However, probably you won't be able to boot from these hard disks, as your BIOS won't see them (it is possible if the controller card explicitly supports it). In this case, you will need some more tricky solutions (network boot, or boot from usb, all of them might be problematic with an ancient bios).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most likely, no shop on the next street will ever sell such things to you. Even that is very likely, that no seller will even understand, what do you want. But, you can buy them online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&amp;q=pata%20sata%20converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36355" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10714" RevisionGUID="4e974491-a07e-4152-93a9-93db854cfbff" CreationDate="2019-03-06T20:33:43.380" UserId="10873" Text="I do not game or code...so is buying a i3 o i5 really worth the $200 instead of getting a quad core pentium say n5000?    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36356" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10714" RevisionGUID="4e974491-a07e-4152-93a9-93db854cfbff" CreationDate="2019-03-06T20:33:43.380" UserId="10873" Text="Intel quad core pentium vs i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36357" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10714" RevisionGUID="4e974491-a07e-4152-93a9-93db854cfbff" CreationDate="2019-03-06T20:33:43.380" UserId="10873" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36375" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10721" RevisionGUID="70046891-0871-4f3e-988d-b83cdcb06be2" CreationDate="2019-03-08T02:14:08.607" UserId="10884" Text="I've got a film editing workstation that I currently run in my studio. It's a noisy box, and generates lots of heat, so I'm looking to move the hardware into a machine room around 50-100 ft of cable away from the studio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the computer I run dual 4k monitors (each at 3840x2160, from displayport). On top of the dual-head computer monitors, at my desk I have a keyboard and mouse. I also have video and audio (for the edited video) coming out of the editing card over SDI for video and balanced XLR for audio. I can run the SDI video and XLR audio over that distance, but I'd like a recommendation about the right product to use to extend the dual-head 4k monitors (and keyboard, mouse and USB) over that kind of distance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend an extender or KVM that I can use to remote dual 4k monitors (running at 2x 3840x2160)  from a workstation about 50 to 100 ft away?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36376" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10721" RevisionGUID="70046891-0871-4f3e-988d-b83cdcb06be2" CreationDate="2019-03-08T02:14:08.607" UserId="10884" Text="What's equipment can I use to move a dual 4k workstation into a machine room?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36377" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10721" RevisionGUID="70046891-0871-4f3e-988d-b83cdcb06be2" CreationDate="2019-03-08T02:14:08.607" UserId="10884" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36378" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10722" RevisionGUID="8ced59c3-d9ff-4d78-ae3b-903e832d2cf8" CreationDate="2019-03-08T08:29:33.737" UserId="10420" Text="I was wondering whether it is best to have an HDS+SSD or SSD solution in a laptop computer. What are the advantages of each and what should I be looking for?&#xA;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36379" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10722" RevisionGUID="8ced59c3-d9ff-4d78-ae3b-903e832d2cf8" CreationDate="2019-03-08T08:29:33.737" UserId="10420" Text="HDS+SSD or SSD, which solution is best?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36380" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10722" RevisionGUID="8ced59c3-d9ff-4d78-ae3b-903e832d2cf8" CreationDate="2019-03-08T08:29:33.737" UserId="10420" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36385" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10725" RevisionGUID="8fa14eb4-a6f2-4d48-a0fa-537ba7d395fd" CreationDate="2019-03-08T12:48:07.010" UserId="10889" Text="Intel Pentium n5000 is an SoC (System on Chip) and is an Atom-based processor. You can't compare it with a desktop based or laptop series i5. The right question would be to compare systems as in whole. Specify what notebooks you are comparing and the usage you are looking to do with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A notebook with n5000 will feature low-load applications. It consists of burst speed i.e normally it would idle at a clock speed of 1.1 GHz and when required would top to 2.7 GHz. So, if your usage is limited to docs and limited multitasking than a notebook of this power is likely to be sufficient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36386" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10726" RevisionGUID="fe2e1f98-16b1-4c77-8cdc-aab4c891dde2" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:15:22.373" UserId="10890" Text="Basically, the following will apply:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;An SSD will give you better read/write speeds and is available in smaller physical sizes.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;An HDD will give you better price-per-GB and will usually be available in larger storage capacities.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;For a laptop, it will depend on the chassis and the motherboard. If there is an M.2 slot, this will give you access to the range of NVMe SSDs, these are both very small in physical size and give you very fast speeds. If you have a single SATA interface for a 2.5&quot; drive then your best option would be to go for the largest capacity SSD you can afford. If you have both, then you can opt for the SSD for your operating system and working fileset (applications) and a large capacity HDD for your data (documents, photos, videos, etc)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36387" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10722" RevisionGUID="7812d983-0e26-43bd-98c4-ced62834b311" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:27:25.187" UserId="10420" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="I was wondering whether it is best to have an HDD+SSD or SSD solution in a laptop computer. What are the advantages of each and what should I be looking for?&#xA;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36388" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10722" RevisionGUID="7812d983-0e26-43bd-98c4-ced62834b311" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:27:25.187" UserId="10420" Comment="edited body; edited title" Text="HDD+SSD or SSD, which solution is best?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36389" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10727" RevisionGUID="523b45be-fba7-4596-8f7c-57d2a93fc4b9" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:53:43.343" UserId="24" Text="I have a desktop machine what I would like to access remotely, *but making all the 3D acceleration/framebuffering/etc* working correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, to &quot;help&quot; my video card to understand, that yes, there is a monitor there with a given resolution, I think something would be needed to talk him as if a real monitor would do - except that it wouldn't have a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(The display will be transmitted over the network with my protocols, maybe vnc/rdp/spectre, but it is another story.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine a small (&amp; cheap) usb device, whose other end is the HDMI port of my video card, and provides this little cheat. But any similar solutions would be okay. What I want to, make the video card to think, that he is actually giving HDMI video signal to a real display (whose properties can be configured by me)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36390" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10727" RevisionGUID="523b45be-fba7-4596-8f7c-57d2a93fc4b9" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:53:43.343" UserId="24" Text="How to fake a big HDMI monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36391" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10727" RevisionGUID="523b45be-fba7-4596-8f7c-57d2a93fc4b9" CreationDate="2019-03-08T13:53:43.343" UserId="24" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36392" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10728" RevisionGUID="2df18be5-2aa6-4a18-9530-7ba0ae565570" CreationDate="2019-03-08T14:08:59.560" UserId="24" Text="You options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You use the SSD to *cache the content of your HDD*. On this way, the SSD will work like a big cache to your HDD. The advantage is that you nearly get the speed an zero-seek-time of the SSD, but in the size of your HDD. The disadvantages are the increased administration/configuration costs, and that you lose the disk space of your SSD (because it will cache and not raw data). *Leave a little space empty on your SSD, to help the wear leveling feature working!*&#xD;&#xA;2. You use the SSD for speed &amp; seek intensive tasks, and the HDD for tasks requiring big permanent space. There are also laptops with a preinstalled Windows having an SSD C: and a HDD D: drivers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;If you are using Linux, [LVM][1] can help a lot in both.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.tldp.org/HOWTO/html_single/LVM-HOWTO/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10725" RevisionGUID="3366eb9a-ec19-41fe-92f8-e82a0f187bff" CreationDate="2019-03-08T14:21:57.210" UserId="10889" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="Intel Pentium n5000 is an SoC (System on Chip) and is an Atom-based processor. You can't compare it with a desktop based or laptop series i5. The right question would be to compare systems as in whole. Specify what notebooks you are comparing and the usage you are looking to do with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A notebook with n5000 will feature low-load applications. It consists of burst speed i.e normally it would idle at a clock speed of 1.1 GHz and when required would top to 2.7 GHz. So, if your usage is limited to docs and limited multitasking than a notebook of this power is likely to be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Suggestion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Comparing with your suggested laptops this is what I can suggest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead of the two laptops, I'll ask you to look into this one. Matches all your need and has a better display than the Lenovo IdeaPad 330. [Acer Aspire E 15 - Core i3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HX333WZ/ref=twister_B07H9FPRLJ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1). The core i5 comes with a beefy processor and a graphics card which from the likes of it is not your need. Hence, my suggestion would be to go for the newer 'Acer Aspire E 15 - core i3' which is more powerful and a bit future-proof and doesn't make a hole in your pocket." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10731" RevisionGUID="290f8f67-59a6-43a7-844d-95a99a8edbca" CreationDate="2019-03-08T20:31:20.723" UserId="10892" Text="Here's my experiment with Intel NUC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel NUC pfSense build][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;(i3, 8GB, flash drive as boot device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More details here:&#xD;&#xA;https://serialize.wordpress.com/2019/03/08/intel-nuc-pfsense-build/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrBeN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10731" RevisionGUID="c1b303af-7a16-41bf-abc4-7eed4c102292" CreationDate="2019-03-08T20:35:02.100" UserId="10892" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="Here's my experiment with Intel NUC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I managed to add a second nic bay cutting a hole in NUC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel NUC pfSense build][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;(i3, 8GB, flash drive as boot device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More details here:&#xD;&#xA;https://serialize.wordpress.com/2019/03/08/intel-nuc-pfsense-build/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrBeN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36430" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="2289cacf-26cc-47dc-8e21-5657ce54dce7" CreationDate="2019-03-10T17:01:10.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36438" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10707" RevisionGUID="4c3c3662-df6a-4c28-bd0b-24ecc4840c55" CreationDate="2019-03-10T17:30:20.413" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10739" RevisionGUID="e3f73365-2324-4f96-8e71-c3f4cc909f54" CreationDate="2019-03-11T11:32:05.030" UserId="9333" Text="I've found Honor 8X Max with 5000mah capacity and almost ordered it but then found out it has no USB-C so slow charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are most close alernatives, that is not much more expensive but 4-5 Ah and USB Type C?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36445" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10739" RevisionGUID="e3f73365-2324-4f96-8e71-c3f4cc909f54" CreationDate="2019-03-11T11:32:05.030" UserId="9333" Text="Current USB C smartphones with 5000mah around $400 comaprable to Honor 8?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36446" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10739" RevisionGUID="e3f73365-2324-4f96-8e71-c3f4cc909f54" CreationDate="2019-03-11T11:32:05.030" UserId="9333" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="1ee61225-84c6-4834-89d6-c992674a1b1b" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:13:10.767" UserId="10908" Text="Will be using this mainly for livestreaming. 1080p30 is the max resolution &amp; fps I will be streaming. Will never do a 60 fps stream. Livestreaming mainly through OBS, and once in a way with Wirecast. I've noticed that a 5th gen i5 quad core does quite fine with 1080p30 on OBS, so maybe that can be a baseline for the laptop CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 2 is the main requirement. I have a Blackmagic Ultrastudio Mini to bring in the video feed through an SDI. The Mini also supports sixteen audio channels over the SDI, which is crucial for me. Unfortunately the Mini comes in Thunderbolt 2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Windows laptops under 700$ with thunderbolt 3. For eg. Lenovo Yoga 730. I was hoping to avoid having to buy a Thunderbolt 3 laptop to avoid having to purchase a converter. The Lenovo for example will need a converter for Thunderbolt 3 to 2 and for the ethernet, which is crucial for livestreaming. That would add another 80$ to the budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36452" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="1ee61225-84c6-4834-89d6-c992674a1b1b" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:13:10.767" UserId="10908" Text="Windows/Linux Laptop with thunderbolt 2, under 700 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36453" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="1ee61225-84c6-4834-89d6-c992674a1b1b" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:13:10.767" UserId="10908" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36460" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10714" RevisionGUID="499c46e4-d8b8-476a-93f8-ad8bd0022690" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:14:06.580" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36461" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="d55eddc7-d590-4d8e-b7bf-336dac24b36c" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:19:44.223" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="dollar sign goes in front with US currency, changed a word to make more sense" Text="Will be using this mainly for livestreaming. 1080p30 is the max resolution &amp; fps I will be streaming. Will never do a 60 fps stream. Livestreaming mainly through OBS, and once in a while with Wirecast. I've noticed that a 5th gen i5 quad core does quite fine with 1080p30 on OBS, so maybe that can be a baseline for the laptop CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 2 is the main requirement. I have a Blackmagic Ultrastudio Mini to bring in the video feed through an SDI. The Mini also supports sixteen audio channels over the SDI, which is crucial for me. Unfortunately the Mini comes in Thunderbolt 2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen a few Windows laptops under $700 with thunderbolt 3. For eg. Lenovo Yoga 730. I was hoping to avoid having to buy a Thunderbolt 3 laptop to avoid having to purchase a converter. The Lenovo for example will need a converter for Thunderbolt 3 to 2 and for the ethernet, which is crucial for livestreaming. That would add another $80 to the budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36462" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="d55eddc7-d590-4d8e-b7bf-336dac24b36c" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:19:44.223" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="dollar sign goes in front with US currency, changed a word to make more sense" Text="Windows/Linux Laptop with thunderbolt 2, under $700 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36463" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10741" RevisionGUID="d55eddc7-d590-4d8e-b7bf-336dac24b36c" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:19:44.223" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 60 edit id of 816" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36464" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10570" RevisionGUID="535e6e44-2efd-4435-ae75-8821485d84e8" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:26:23.377" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36465" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10570" RevisionGUID="535e6e44-2efd-4435-ae75-8821485d84e8" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:26:23.377" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 815" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36474" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10731" RevisionGUID="51fd84e2-ca73-4c07-9a26-6d39c7bb25a2" CreationDate="2019-03-12T05:45:43.707" UserId="10892" Comment="typo" Text="Here's my experiment with Intel NUC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I managed to add a second nic by cutting a hole in NUC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Intel NUC pfSense build][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;(i3, 8GB, flash drive as boot device)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More details here:&#xD;&#xA;https://serialize.wordpress.com/2019/03/08/intel-nuc-pfsense-build/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrBeN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10744" RevisionGUID="444c352c-1067-478d-a2e0-5bc12dae22ba" CreationDate="2019-03-12T12:10:39.127" UserId="10920" Text="I have the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, and I am very pleased with it. But one of the keys have fallen off, and I want to replace it with something similar, but white.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like it to be in a stylish design, as my PC is in our livingroom, but ultimately it has to be comfortable to write with, as I will use it a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it was available with Norwegian key layout (ÆØÅ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple keyboards are white, but I don't want that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The A-Jazz AK30 is white and illuminated, but it's ugly as heck...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest one I have foud is the Trust KB-1500, but it seems to have gone out of production. At least, no online stores in Norway has it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36479" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10744" RevisionGUID="444c352c-1067-478d-a2e0-5bc12dae22ba" CreationDate="2019-03-12T12:10:39.127" UserId="10920" Text="White, full size, non-gaming, illuminated keyboard with numpad, for PC with Windows" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36480" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10744" RevisionGUID="444c352c-1067-478d-a2e0-5bc12dae22ba" CreationDate="2019-03-12T12:10:39.127" UserId="10920" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="8fb0cb00-3eda-4c4b-a396-8607fdf6a717" CreationDate="2019-03-12T19:17:19.327" UserId="10916" Comment="fixed grammar; improved formatting; increased overall clarity; reduced noise (see https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/2950)" Text="A few months ago I bought a new GPU (1060 GB) and my performance got higher from that. But now I see my CPU is not enough for what I am doing on my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So what I do on my PC?**&#xD;&#xA;Play games. This part is quite good. I can run most of games in almost full settings (GTA 5 etc) but my CPU is on 70-90% of usage. In PUBG it's around 80-95% (Low setting except render distance).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I like streaming**&#xD;&#xA;Recently I started streaming again. And since I have second monitor I can see that most times my CPU is **80-100%** depending on which game I am playing. Right now I encode the video with the GPU (**nvidia nvec**), so GPU is taking the hard part but still OBS need something to do, so mostly it takes 10% of usage. I stream in **720p60fps** (Internet doesn't allow me to do 1080p30fps or higher).&#xD;&#xA;During the streaming I also host MP games (**strategy games**) and run some background programs like Chrome, Discord, Bots for Chat, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Time to time some fans they can see that **streaming is laggy and I see in OBS that is buffering and losing frames**. I don't want to go lower on quality settings. I just want to have nice picture for the viewers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Photoshop, video editing, rendering**.&#xD;&#xA;For pictures and graphics I am using Photoshop. It currently seems like I have enough power. For editing and video rendering, I don't think there's enough power. It takes a long time to make a 20 minute video, like 40-50 minutes to render in fullHD. Just for fun I am rendering Also fractals, but it's not important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I believe that it's not good to have CPU at 80-100% usage all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current build** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU:** Intel Core i5-3550p &#xD;&#xA; - **GPU:** Nvidia GTX 1060(GB) &#xD;&#xA; - **RAM:** 16 gigabytes 1600MHz (two slots) &#xD;&#xA; - **MB:** Asrock Z77 pro3 &#xD;&#xA; - **Drives:** 1 TB Western Digital(Other data) and 120GM SSD kingstone (OS programs some games)&#xD;&#xA;   **PSU:** Corsair 600 Watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget:** Well this is the hard part. I can use around 500-700 dollars depending on the CPU (that's why the range explaining below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My opinion**. Since I have an old CPU (maybe causing the issue) I also need a new MB and RAMs, so the budget includes those things. Now I am considering Intel Core I5-8400 or Intel Core I7-8700. **Between those there is a difference of around 200 dollars** (which is the reason for a 500-700 budget). I am not sure if the power of I7 is worthy to spend money on it for what I am doing on pc most of the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Last words:** **I want to buy a new HW for the next 4-5 years**. Also, I **don't like** **CPU with K version**, because I never do overclokings and I like coolers that comes with CPU (good experience Intel-3550p). At the same time, I am not fan of AMD because I had a bad experience with them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36483" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="8fb0cb00-3eda-4c4b-a396-8607fdf6a717" CreationDate="2019-03-12T19:17:19.327" UserId="10916" Comment="fixed grammar; improved formatting; increased overall clarity; reduced noise (see https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/2950)" Text="PC upgrade for the next few years" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36484" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8603" RevisionGUID="8fb0cb00-3eda-4c4b-a396-8607fdf6a717" CreationDate="2019-03-12T19:17:19.327" Comment="Proposed by 10916 approved by 60 edit id of 817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10745" RevisionGUID="88b485d1-e551-4187-bea2-9d775e664e9b" CreationDate="2019-03-13T09:31:57.780" UserId="10867" Text="Many (and fast) USB hubs are available in the market, but most of them do not provide a selective control over their single ports. From the OS, I would like to be able to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- activate and deactivate power on each port;&#xD;&#xA;- activate and deactivate data transfer on each port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After several Google searches, [Yepkit](https://www.yepkit.com/home) seems to be the only one to provide a solution: [one for USB 2.0](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush) (even if this seems not to have data transfer control) at about 40 USD and [one for USB 3.1](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush) at about 90 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In both cases: do some other cheaper products exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36486" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10745" RevisionGUID="88b485d1-e551-4187-bea2-9d775e664e9b" CreationDate="2019-03-13T09:31:57.780" UserId="10867" Text="USB hub with power (and data) control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36487" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10745" RevisionGUID="88b485d1-e551-4187-bea2-9d775e664e9b" CreationDate="2019-03-13T09:31:57.780" UserId="10867" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36491" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="605f9c05-7d10-4511-8661-017dc00f3777" CreationDate="2019-03-13T11:01:35.340" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36492" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10745" RevisionGUID="3996517e-e22d-455d-b114-4e72c724387d" CreationDate="2019-03-13T12:39:46.500" UserId="10867" Comment="Added referenced answer." Text="Many (and fast) USB hubs are available in the market, but most of them do not provide a selective control over their single ports. From the OS, I would like to be able to:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- activate and deactivate power on each port;&#xD;&#xA;- activate and deactivate data transfer on each port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After several Google searches and as suggested in [this](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/a/66025) answer, [Yepkit](https://www.yepkit.com/home) seems to be the only one to provide a solution: [one for USB 2.0](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush) (even if this seems not to have data transfer control) at about 40 USD and [one for USB 3.1](https://www.yepkit.com/products/ykush) at about 90 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In both cases: do some other cheaper products exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36509" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10744" RevisionGUID="28eeb6bb-bd81-4ed9-9e27-49e78de70cfb" CreationDate="2019-03-13T18:52:41.177" UserId="10920" Comment="Added price limit" Text="I have the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, and I am very pleased with it. But one of the keys have fallen off, and I want to replace it with something similar, but white.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like it to be in a stylish design, as my PC is in our livingroom, but ultimately it has to be comfortable to write with, as I will use it a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if it was available with Norwegian key layout (ÆØÅ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple keyboards are white, but I don't want that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The A-Jazz AK30 is white and illuminated, but it's ugly as heck...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest one I have foud is the Trust KB-1500, but it seems to have gone out of production. At least, no online stores in Norway has it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price limit is around 100 EUR / 115 USD / 90 GBP / 1000 NOK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any other options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36512" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9883" RevisionGUID="3f57cf35-b236-42e3-a9ad-26961806f27a" CreationDate="2019-03-14T02:06:33.703" UserId="531" Comment="added 61 characters in body" Text="Its not *exactly* an NUC, but I ended up going with [ars technica's recommendation][1] and ordered something similar from Qotom (went with a core i3, 4gb of ram, and 128gb ssd, since I may choose to run other things on it - [this is the specific model][2]). They have more practical 2 port models, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I paid about 280USD, which compares well to a NUC, even if its slightly dated hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run a few other things on it, and I went with a ubuntu based setup with firewalld and dnsmasq, which works great for me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few little technical notes -&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wireless adaptor that comes built in is a  AR9287. Its single band, and probably something I will replace in future. Its mini PCIe not M.2. Its probably worth dropping and replacing with something else. I'm not sure if the option without wireless comes with the mounting holes for the antennae so I left it in place.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a msata slot (populated by an off brand, presumably MLC drive), and a power+data interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x intel I211 adaptors (not multiple adaptors on one interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 4x USB (2x 2.0 2x3.0), Serial (which was slightly amusing) and HDMI out for video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its *silent*, and has been running like a champ for the past 6 months. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll take a beauty shot later, but that's in comparison with a NUC class machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4-Gigabit-LAN-ports-Mini-PC-Celeron-3215U-Core-i3-Core-i5-WIFI-using/32829499825.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6Db.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="258" RevisionGUID="6784df9e-9901-4c2b-9dac-7ef841dc2776" CreationDate="2019-03-15T01:43:12.427" UserId="10875" Comment="Update links, and link to the newer iX1500" Text="I have used the [FUJITSU Document Scanner ScanSnap iX500][1] and been very happy with it. It's a higher priced scanner though. It's currently $500 at [Staples][2] and $400 on [Amazon][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![FUJITSU Document Scanner ScanSnap iX500][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is not a printer&#xD;&#xA; - Various paper sizes, including A4 and automatically recognizes the size of the paper. &#xD;&#xA; - Duplex capable&#xD;&#xA; - Windows and OS X drivers.&#xD;&#xA; - Dimensions: 292 mm x 159 mm x 168 mm (11.5 in. x 6.2 in. x 6.6 in.)&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: 3.0 kg (6.62 lb.)&#xD;&#xA; - Can scan wirelessly to a device (PC, Mac, iOS or Android devices)&#xD;&#xA; - Scans to searchable PDFs&#xD;&#xA; - It can scan approximately 20 pages per minute, in my experience. The official specs say 25 ppm.&#xD;&#xA; - I can't recall the last time it jammed on me. Amazon reviews seem to agree:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-EastSide][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &gt; Improved paper handling mechanism. Regular paper documents rarely jam or misfeed on the S1500. Only if you have stuck, very thin, bended, irregular or wrinkled sheets. I threw in different types of papers and it seems to take them in better! This is a real usability improvement.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-MoonX][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Well like I said, I've got about 15,000 documents through this thing and haven't had a single problem with it feeding documents, jamming, or anything. I've used scanners almost twice the price of the iX500 that had more problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[-GhostFaceReviewer][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  I had crinkled papers and it would never jam. Even thin receipts from years ago would be detected and never jammed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macworld [compared][8] this scanner to another product I've used (and would also recommend): [NeatDesk][9]. In the review Macworld noted:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Not surprisingly, given these different approaches, the ScanSnap iX500 hardware outshines NeatDesk. The ScanSnap is faster, less prone to jams and produces superior scan quality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The different approaches being referenced are NeatDesk's &quot;software company with some hardware&quot; vs Fijitsu's &quot;hardware company with some software&quot; approach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of March 2019, it appears that the iX500 model has been replaced by a newer model, the [FUJITSU ScanSnap iX1500][10].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.shopfujitsu.com/store/SelectAccessoryDetail.jsp?partNumber=PA03656-B005&amp;category=Printers+and+Scanners&amp;title=ScanSnap+iX500+Cl+Dplx+Scann&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.staples.com/FUJITSU-Document-Scanner-ScanSnap-iX500/product_2420168&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-ScanSnap-iX500-Scanner-PA03656-B005/dp/B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/JPpmP.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R17ZGVQCELM2IG/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RB00AAYPNSH3Z/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1CHOZM39O6GOO/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00ATZ9QMO&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.macworld.com/article/2025465/document-scanner-showdown-neatdesk-versus-snapscan-ix500.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.neat.com/products/neatdesk/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.fujitsu.com/us/products/computing/peripheral/scanners/scansnap/ix1500/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36524" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="258" RevisionGUID="6784df9e-9901-4c2b-9dac-7ef841dc2776" CreationDate="2019-03-15T01:43:12.427" Comment="Proposed by 10875 approved by 57 edit id of 814" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10753" RevisionGUID="f6fc64cb-4d39-49fc-9820-2d7540388b71" CreationDate="2019-03-15T05:12:18.530" UserId="10936" Text="I'm working on a software package that operates a landline modem through AT commands. The program snoops Caller Id and kills the call when a telemarketers calls. The program also reports the call to Harassing Call Centers if the caller is known on the FTC [Do Not Call](https://www.ftc.gov/site-information/open-government/data-sets/do-not-call-data) violator list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the program is getting more complex I need to know what is happening on the line without Heisenberg-ing the line. For example, the modem may report LINE IN USE when it is really me listening trying to figure out line state.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB modems don't have external speakers so I can't follow progress. If I pick up an extension and listen to the line then I disturb the state. (I also tried to breadboard a small tap with 1 MΩ pull-up resistor connected to ring and old PC speaker. The best I could describe it is, a half-ass attempt when I really needed a proper solution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for some test equipment to report on activity. I need to know when:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* on-hook and off-hook&#xD;&#xA;* dial tone and no dial tone&#xD;&#xA;* call connected&#xD;&#xA;* busy and fast busy&#xD;&#xA;* number not in service&#xD;&#xA;* voice traffic on the line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, here are some program states and what I would like to determine for line status:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* program does nothing - sense &quot;on-hook&quot; and &quot;no dial tone&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* program tells modem `ATH1` (go offhook) - sense &quot;off-hook&quot; and &quot;dial tone&quot; or &quot;answer&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* program dials, called party picks up - sense &quot;call connected&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* called party speaks - sense &quot;voice traffic&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Status LEDs are fine for my purposes. I can watch a flashing LED and then pick up an extension to learn how the flashing LED corresponds to tone, like a fast busy or warble.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't require professional equipment; something for power users is fine. Ideally the test equipment will be $50 to $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's why the workflow is tricky when commanding the modem. Suppose you call your home number from your cell phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. program listens&#xD;&#xA;2. program detects RING (ring 1)&#xD;&#xA;3. program detects CALLER ID (Type 1 Caller ID in US)&#xD;&#xA;4. program detects RING (ring 2)&#xD;&#xA;5. program detects RING (ring 3)&#xD;&#xA;6. ...&#xD;&#xA;7. loop back to (1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Between steps (3) and (4), program can classify and take action. At step (3), program can determine telemarketer and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. go off-hook (answer)&#xD;&#xA;2. pause 1.5 seconds&#xD;&#xA;3. go on-hook (hang up)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. pause 12 seconds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. call Harassing Call Center (dial)&#xD;&#xA;6. pause 3 seconds&#xD;&#xA;7. go on-hook (hang up)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The pauses are trial and error. Step (2) should wait until call CONNECT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Step (4) should wait until the line is inactive and circuit is torn down. Step (4) is tricky because the circuit may still be available (not torn down) because cell phones may intermittently drop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Step (6) should wait until CONNECT and the Harassing Call Center says its message (like &quot;Call trace has been activated&quot;)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36529" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10753" RevisionGUID="f6fc64cb-4d39-49fc-9820-2d7540388b71" CreationDate="2019-03-15T05:12:18.530" UserId="10936" Text="Phone line activity/status test equipment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36530" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10753" RevisionGUID="f6fc64cb-4d39-49fc-9820-2d7540388b71" CreationDate="2019-03-15T05:12:18.530" UserId="10936" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;&lt;test-equipment&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10753" RevisionGUID="54999fc1-cf1c-4e86-906a-385a7d0d1f76" CreationDate="2019-03-15T05:27:02.057" UserId="10936" Comment="Add &quot;self powered&quot;" Text="I'm working on a software package that operates a landline modem through AT commands. The program snoops Caller Id and kills the call when a telemarketers calls. The program also reports the call to Harassing Call Centers if the caller is known on the FTC [Do Not Call](https://www.ftc.gov/site-information/open-government/data-sets/do-not-call-data) violator list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the program is getting more complex I need to know what is happening on the line without Heisenberg-ing the line. For example, the modem may report LINE IN USE when it is really me listening trying to figure out line state.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB modems don't have external speakers so I can't follow progress. If I pick up an extension and listen to the line then I disturb the state. (I also tried to breadboard a small tap with 1 MΩ pull-up resistor connected to ring and old PC speaker. The best I could describe it is, a half-ass attempt when I really needed a proper solution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for some test equipment to report on activity. I need to know when:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* on-hook and off-hook&#xD;&#xA;* dial tone and no dial tone&#xD;&#xA;* call connected&#xD;&#xA;* busy and fast busy&#xD;&#xA;* number not in service&#xD;&#xA;* voice traffic on the line&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, here are some program states and what I would like to determine for line status:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* program does nothing - sense &quot;on-hook&quot; and &quot;no dial tone&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* program tells modem `ATH1` (go offhook) - sense &quot;off-hook&quot; and &quot;dial tone&quot; or &quot;answer&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* program dials, called party picks up - sense &quot;call connected&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* called party speaks - sense &quot;voice traffic&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Status LEDs are fine for my purposes. I can watch a flashing LED and then pick up an extension to learn how the flashing LED corresponds to tone, like a fast busy or warble. Tester should be self powered so it does not load the line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't require professional equipment; something for power users is fine. Ideally the test equipment will be $50 to $100 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's why the workflow is tricky when commanding the modem. Suppose you call your home number from your cell phone:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. program listens&#xD;&#xA;2. program detects RING (ring 1)&#xD;&#xA;3. program detects CALLER ID (Type 1 Caller ID in US)&#xD;&#xA;4. program detects RING (ring 2)&#xD;&#xA;5. program detects RING (ring 3)&#xD;&#xA;6. ...&#xD;&#xA;7. loop back to (1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Between steps (3) and (4), program can classify and take action. At step (3), program can determine telemarketer and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. go off-hook (answer)&#xD;&#xA;2. pause 1.5 seconds&#xD;&#xA;3. go on-hook (hang up)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. pause 12 seconds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. call Harassing Call Center (dial)&#xD;&#xA;6. pause 3 seconds&#xD;&#xA;7. go on-hook (hang up)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The pauses are trial and error. Step (2) should wait until call CONNECT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Step (4) should wait until the line is inactive and circuit is torn down. Step (4) is tricky because the circuit may still be available (not torn down) because cell phones may intermittently drop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Step (6) should wait until CONNECT and the Harassing Call Center says its message (like &quot;Call trace has been activated&quot;)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36532" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10753" RevisionGUID="54999fc1-cf1c-4e86-906a-385a7d0d1f76" CreationDate="2019-03-15T05:27:02.057" UserId="10936" Comment="Add &quot;self powered&quot;" Text="Phone line activity/status/indicator test equipment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36542" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="2ce4e947-41ed-4ecf-a6f0-765ff46df413" CreationDate="2019-03-15T12:01:20.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10756" RevisionGUID="1c31b766-68fc-4f91-a520-8ce5c3e36b4b" CreationDate="2019-03-15T17:10:04.877" UserId="10939" Text="I have some hardware that runs horribly on 5GHz, so I need to 'force' a 2.4GHz. But we will be using hotspots that are 5GHz, so we need a router to 'convert' this from 5GHz to 2.4GHz. So we will create a hotspot on the router, and use a hotspot at the same time. Ethernet also needs to be available on the router for LAN access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for 'modern' routers, and ideally good in price. But if that's not allowed on this site (it's saying &quot;The question you're asking appears subjective and is likely to be closed&quot;), just any routers work. I can do the look up for price. But ideally, someone knows a good off the shelf router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36546" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10756" RevisionGUID="1c31b766-68fc-4f91-a520-8ce5c3e36b4b" CreationDate="2019-03-15T17:10:04.877" UserId="10939" Text="What router is best in price to 'convert' 5GHz signal into 2.4GHz as of March 2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36547" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10756" RevisionGUID="1c31b766-68fc-4f91-a520-8ce5c3e36b4b" CreationDate="2019-03-15T17:10:04.877" UserId="10939" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36548" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10756" RevisionGUID="27ac765c-60da-4b18-a723-dbe090fa93a3" CreationDate="2019-03-15T21:39:12.600" UserId="10939" Comment="edited title" Text="What router is best in price to 'convert' 5GHz signal into 2.4GHz as of March 2019 under $50" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36549" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10756" RevisionGUID="27ac765c-60da-4b18-a723-dbe090fa93a3" CreationDate="2019-03-15T21:39:12.600" UserId="10939" Comment="edited title" Text="I have some hardware that runs horribly on 5GHz, so I need to 'force' a 2.4GHz. But we will be using hotspots that are 5GHz, so we need a router to 'convert' this from 5GHz to 2.4GHz. So we will create a hotspot on the router, and use a hotspot at the same time. Ethernet also needs to be available on the router for LAN access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for 'modern' routers, and ideally good in price. But if that's not allowed on this site (it's saying &quot;The question you're asking appears subjective and is likely to be closed&quot;), just any routers work. I can do the look up for price. But ideally, someone knows a good off the shelf router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally I don't have to install something like DD-RWT, but if that's actually really useful then I can install it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just need to be able to connect to a provided access point only outputting at 5GHz, and then output a 2.4GHz connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36552" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10757" RevisionGUID="42405fb2-d412-42f0-afce-93b7f330fc5e" CreationDate="2019-03-16T03:55:59.880" UserId="10938" Text="AI and Deep learning use GPU for speed up their learning process, now the question is what is the best choice for buying Graphic card?&#xD;&#xA;Single GTX1080T on 1 PC or&#xD;&#xA;Double GTX1070T on 1 PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can we use 2 separate PCs for processing?&#xD;&#xA;Any other idea or experience about it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36553" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10757" RevisionGUID="42405fb2-d412-42f0-afce-93b7f330fc5e" CreationDate="2019-03-16T03:55:59.880" UserId="10938" Text="What is the best choice for AI GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36554" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10757" RevisionGUID="42405fb2-d412-42f0-afce-93b7f330fc5e" CreationDate="2019-03-16T03:55:59.880" UserId="10938" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36557" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10757" RevisionGUID="22d8abd2-435c-4870-95e0-f76aaac7921e" CreationDate="2019-03-17T00:06:24.267" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10761" RevisionGUID="2b101868-6fe1-4b82-a831-c65a2147c38a" CreationDate="2019-03-19T10:22:45.047" UserId="10315" Text="I'm trying to find a Z390 motherboard with built-in support for two 4K DisplayPort monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can see that many have USB-C but I can't find any info if any of them support DisplayPort over that connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of the motherboards have a DisplayPort connector, but I can-t find any info on which version of DisplayPort they have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've realized that 100% of the Z390 are for gamers, and that gamers use a dedicated GPU with ports of its own, but in this setup no extra GPU besides the Intel HD 630 is required or needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you help me find a motherboard with support for two 4K monitors using DisplayPort?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36570" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10761" RevisionGUID="2b101868-6fe1-4b82-a831-c65a2147c38a" CreationDate="2019-03-19T10:22:45.047" UserId="10315" Text="Z390 motherboard with dual DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36571" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10761" RevisionGUID="2b101868-6fe1-4b82-a831-c65a2147c38a" CreationDate="2019-03-19T10:22:45.047" UserId="10315" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10762" RevisionGUID="a06266d8-d910-4c77-8880-3d59f11d6b0f" CreationDate="2019-03-19T12:31:13.150" UserId="10923" Text="I am looking for a ultrabook. (13-14&quot; up to about 1.5kg) I would like to have 32GB RAM and high end ULV processor like for example i7-8650U or i7-8550U. I also would like to have 4x PCIe Thunderbolt and 4GT/s OPI which seems to be standard for this type of configuration. Additionally if possible would be nice to have metal body. I want to run Windows 10 OS on it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I am facing is that the cooling is not sufficient, on all I was able to find, and as a result CPU temperature goes up to 100 Celsius and at this point thermal protection kicks in and speed of CPU is reduced significantly for short period of time to prevent overheating. Are there any ultrabooks with good cooling or is that just standard to design them the way so they overheat on heavy load?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10762" RevisionGUID="a06266d8-d910-4c77-8880-3d59f11d6b0f" CreationDate="2019-03-19T12:31:13.150" UserId="10923" Text="Ultrabook with good cooling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10762" RevisionGUID="a06266d8-d910-4c77-8880-3d59f11d6b0f" CreationDate="2019-03-19T12:31:13.150" UserId="10923" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10763" RevisionGUID="34e98962-46eb-4b4d-8c8e-69ed22e0b901" CreationDate="2019-03-19T13:33:33.693" UserId="10954" Text="Ideally I'm looking for a handheld, netbook, or 10-12&quot; laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be x86_64 (not ARM) with 8GB RAM or more.  The CPU needs to be faster than an Atom.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen has HDMI and Display Port inputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36579" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10763" RevisionGUID="34e98962-46eb-4b4d-8c8e-69ed22e0b901" CreationDate="2019-03-19T13:33:33.693" UserId="10954" Text="What's the smallest handheld or laptop that will drive a 4K Display Port (or HDMI 2.0) monitor at 60fps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36580" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10763" RevisionGUID="34e98962-46eb-4b4d-8c8e-69ed22e0b901" CreationDate="2019-03-19T13:33:33.693" UserId="10954" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36581" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10761" RevisionGUID="6b302a44-179b-4f2d-98e5-ee6773a22535" CreationDate="2019-03-19T14:54:48.250" UserId="10315" Comment="edited title" Text="Z390 motherboard that supports two 4K monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10767" RevisionGUID="0d645123-5ed3-408a-9b31-ef60b07e85f9" CreationDate="2019-03-20T21:58:57.543" UserId="10506" Text="Actually, contrary to common sense expectations there is such a thing: [Multipath I/O](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multipath_I/O) - devices with several connection routes to the system (which communicates with such a device). Such redundancy is typically a requirement of a [carrier-grade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrier_grade) systems. Often the device is within a [SAN](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storage_Area_Network) with [iSCSI](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISCSI) or [FC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibre_Channel) being used as interconnect." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10769" RevisionGUID="5ba50443-6978-48c1-924b-022e2545efa1" CreationDate="2019-03-20T23:17:15.930" UserId="10506" Text="Too long for a comment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Free/Open device-drivers/firmware for all (built-in) radios/chips.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Very unlikley - the software driving baseband processors is part of certifications (see e.g. this [SE post][1]), which (depending on requirements) may be either virtually impossible with open-source, prohibitively expensive or just not viable because of the business model (a baseband producer using open-source and putting it into shape for certification would bear most of the costs for anyone else reusing it later in their own devices).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you drop that requirement and substitute &quot;isolate the proprietary blobs&quot;, it would be more possible (again the same [SE answer][1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://security.stackexchange.com/a/64388/24330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="84b4cc37-b005-493b-b178-6495a61e9c5f" CreationDate="2019-03-21T13:23:42.483" UserId="10960" Text="I got a Samsung S8 with a totally broken screen. Repair cost is at 80% of a brand new one, so eventually I bought a another phone. With a USB-C multiport adapter I can attach an HDMI monitor and USB mouse and keyboard, turning it into an android desktop computer. The problem is: How do I power such setup, so I don't have to unplug the setup to charge the phone every day? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="84b4cc37-b005-493b-b178-6495a61e9c5f" CreationDate="2019-03-21T13:23:42.483" UserId="10960" Text="Power-In + Video-Out for USB-C?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="84b4cc37-b005-493b-b178-6495a61e9c5f" CreationDate="2019-03-21T13:23:42.483" UserId="10960" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36620" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="a97db0af-207e-4947-88da-61a14522b286" CreationDate="2019-03-21T13:32:14.473" UserId="10960" Comment="edited title" Text="Power-In + Video-Out for USB-C (Samsung S8)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36630" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="949f79cc-3614-4f3b-8b42-9a53a0bb92dd" CreationDate="2019-03-21T18:41:52.817" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36638" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="cae7d644-61d6-4604-a40d-f0203f7bd84a" CreationDate="2019-03-21T21:44:19.207" UserId="10949" Text="So, basically, I'm looking for any kind of Android tablet with tiny bezels and the size of the Ipad Pro 11&quot;. If the aspect ratio is somewhere from 4:3 to a 4.3:3, is a super plus (actual aspect ratio for that mentioned Ipad)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use it for&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reading&#xD;&#xA; 2. Media consumption&#xD;&#xA; 3. Web surfing&#xD;&#xA; 4. And all the light stuff that tablets are for&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to pay those $800+, simply because I don't need all the power of that Ipad. I don't need a pencil, nor any other fancy things. Just tiny bezels, that aspect ratio (if possible), and Android.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know any?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36639" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="cae7d644-61d6-4604-a40d-f0203f7bd84a" CreationDate="2019-03-21T21:44:19.207" UserId="10949" Text="Is there a tablet with the same bezels and size as Ipad Pro 11&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36640" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="cae7d644-61d6-4604-a40d-f0203f7bd84a" CreationDate="2019-03-21T21:44:19.207" UserId="10949" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10779" RevisionGUID="61030d9f-e98a-4b3d-bc76-ca40705e4943" CreationDate="2019-03-21T21:57:19.100" UserId="10958" Text="Have you considered a Samsung Galaxy Tab S4? It has a 10.5 inch screen, 64GB of storage, the bezels aren’t as thin though it’s at $649, I’ll leave you a link to it so you can go check it out!&#xA;https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/tablets/galaxy-tab-s/s/_/n-10+11+hv1rq+zq2js/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10780" RevisionGUID="f316b8b6-ef71-494c-b45b-cbcfeadc722a" CreationDate="2019-03-22T02:51:07.197" UserId="10958" Text="If you have the money, go for the 2080. It has a smaller architecture, meaning it has lower power consumption and it runs cooler, however all of this is in theory, your mileage may vary. However the 2080 has better support for Real time Ray Tracing, and has support for a bunch of other technologies including DLSS. So if I were you I’d go for the 2080. And it would be pretty hard to have bottlenecks with the 4790K especially at high resolutions where the graphics card would be more taxed than the CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="fcfd1dd5-bdb9-47c6-a281-290361d1abdb" CreationDate="2019-03-22T11:43:42.720" UserId="10960" Comment="reworded for the language police" Text="Which hardware device allows me to charge a Samsung S8 and at the same time connect the USB-C video/hdmi out and a USB mouse.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36647" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="8388df80-7464-4579-a53b-f4ce2ee15df0" CreationDate="2019-03-22T16:53:38.237" UserId="10056" Text="I was looking for a big screen device to play clash of clans and clash royale&#xA;I was looking for a device with 7 inch or higher screen, long battery life, 16gb or higher space if possible, 1.5GB+ Ram and sim slot if possible else wifi only i have buget of 15000 rs Indian currency if you guys have any recommendations please suggest it would be so helpful for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36648" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="8388df80-7464-4579-a53b-f4ce2ee15df0" CreationDate="2019-03-22T16:53:38.237" UserId="10056" Text="Device To Play Games" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36649" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="8388df80-7464-4579-a53b-f4ce2ee15df0" CreationDate="2019-03-22T16:53:38.237" UserId="10056" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2816" RevisionGUID="06ce0196-1d16-4e9a-bf12-b287e8f53f25" CreationDate="2019-03-22T19:20:22.687" UserId="8" Comment="added 117 characters in body" Text="## Looking for technical support or advice?&#xA;&#xA;This site doesn't do technical support. Questions here that ask for technical support may be closed quickly, and are unlikely to receive answers. Instead of asking here, try these places:&#xA;&#xA;- [Super User](http://superuser.com)&#xA;- [Reddit's /r/techsupport](https://reddit.com/r/techsupport)&#xA;- [PC Advisor forums](http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/forum/helproom-1/)&#xA;- Official support forums for [Apple](https://discussions.apple.com/welcome) and [Microsoft](https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb)&#xA;&#xA;## This site is here to help with [these types of questions](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="5c40ac3d-1751-4b1e-b726-c0e408a4d057" CreationDate="2019-03-25T00:03:35.667" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Listed the requirements and removed some fluff" Text="I am looking for a big screen device to play Clash of Clans and Clash Royale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 7&quot; or larger screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. long battery life&#xD;&#xA; 3. 16 GB or more storage&#xD;&#xA; 4. 1.5 GB or more RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional: SIM card slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have budget of 15000 rs Indian currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36695" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="5c40ac3d-1751-4b1e-b726-c0e408a4d057" CreationDate="2019-03-25T00:03:35.667" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 57 edit id of 821" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36696" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10779" RevisionGUID="3958e081-4de3-4254-9e56-35973314ad6d" CreationDate="2019-03-25T00:03:44.887" UserId="6047" Comment="Embedded Link." Text="Have you considered the [Samsung Galaxy Tab S4 ($649)][1]? It has a 10.5 inch screen, 64GB of storage, the bezels aren’t as thin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/tablets/galaxy-tab-s/s/_/n-10+11+hv1rq+zq2js/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36697" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10779" RevisionGUID="3958e081-4de3-4254-9e56-35973314ad6d" CreationDate="2019-03-25T00:03:44.887" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 57 edit id of 819" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36717" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10800" RevisionGUID="a872f854-347c-4f5d-99a5-2553996c95ff" CreationDate="2019-03-25T17:46:31.810" UserId="10987" Text="I'm looking for a printer to print fine art photos in color and in B&amp;W from a Linux machine.  These prints will be mounted and displayed.  They don't have to be museum quality or anything, but should be better than typical office color printer output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to print at several sizes, up to about 22&quot; or so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm in the US and hoping to keep it under $400 (USD).  It's important that it works well under Linux since I have no other OS." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36718" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10800" RevisionGUID="a872f854-347c-4f5d-99a5-2553996c95ff" CreationDate="2019-03-25T17:46:31.810" UserId="10987" Text="Good printer for fine art photos which works well under Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36719" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10800" RevisionGUID="a872f854-347c-4f5d-99a5-2553996c95ff" CreationDate="2019-03-25T17:46:31.810" UserId="10987" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36723" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10783" RevisionGUID="6a09ee60-04e2-4f6d-8ecd-3cf71ac2a8c2" CreationDate="2019-03-25T17:57:53.087" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36780" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="b52be3fc-bcf8-4276-b4a9-354923daef95" CreationDate="2019-03-27T15:07:32.117" UserId="2222" Text="I am looking for an LGA1151 motherboard that has HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current one I have only has HDMI 1.4 and I can't find a suitable one. The CPU I have is an Intel Pentium G4600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Form factor Mini-ITX&#xD;&#xA; - Support for NVMe drives&#xD;&#xA; - Preferably no WiFi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably the motherboard also has the ability to always supply power to one internal USB 2.0 header, but that's just an extra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would really appreciate some recommendations. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36781" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="b52be3fc-bcf8-4276-b4a9-354923daef95" CreationDate="2019-03-27T15:07:32.117" UserId="2222" Text="LGA1151 Motherboard with HDMI2.0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36782" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="b52be3fc-bcf8-4276-b4a9-354923daef95" CreationDate="2019-03-27T15:07:32.117" UserId="2222" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10813" RevisionGUID="eb405c03-c20a-4445-9bb3-c73845451ac3" CreationDate="2019-03-27T18:24:49.647" UserId="11003" Text="I'm looking for a static (no adjustments) pole mount for heavy 30&quot; and 32&quot; screens. The pole is 35mm, vertical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to get the screen as close to the pole as possible. No adjustments are needed - actually they are a con as they take space and are not easy to get tight enough for a heavy monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the options I have found online have tilt and/or swivel. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10813" RevisionGUID="eb405c03-c20a-4445-9bb3-c73845451ac3" CreationDate="2019-03-27T18:24:49.647" UserId="11003" Text="Static pole mount for heavy monitor with VESA 100x100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10813" RevisionGUID="eb405c03-c20a-4445-9bb3-c73845451ac3" CreationDate="2019-03-27T18:24:49.647" UserId="11003" Text="&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10815" RevisionGUID="8fbc9db0-6222-4d28-b2f4-e84594d3764c" CreationDate="2019-03-28T09:51:03.327" UserId="11005" Text="I have a laptop with 2 SATA port and one PCIE for WIFI Card (though it can also be used with mini PCIE), one of the SATA port already used with first SSD that also act as primary disk while the other port has HDD of 1TB storage. But some might think why replace 1TB with some hundreds of SSD. I might soon partition this 2nd SSD for some space to fit in Linux distro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, aside from making my laptop bit lighter, I wanna know if it's ergonomical, economical, performance upgrade (and any other Pros) of using SSD as a storage. Thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36796" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10815" RevisionGUID="8fbc9db0-6222-4d28-b2f4-e84594d3764c" CreationDate="2019-03-28T09:51:03.327" UserId="11005" Text="SSD as A Storage Drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36797" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10815" RevisionGUID="8fbc9db0-6222-4d28-b2f4-e84594d3764c" CreationDate="2019-03-28T09:51:03.327" UserId="11005" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36798" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6585" RevisionGUID="08f993dc-d31c-4e6a-a9fa-d4ed266b9f04" CreationDate="2019-03-28T09:58:09.377" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag gaming" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36799" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6585" RevisionGUID="08f993dc-d31c-4e6a-a9fa-d4ed266b9f04" CreationDate="2019-03-28T09:58:09.377" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 5295 edit id of 822" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36806" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10818" RevisionGUID="f3290a2c-a966-48f2-a215-a86edaa05876" CreationDate="2019-03-28T13:38:29.017" UserId="9423" Text="Here are a few advantages of an SSD in your scenario:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Insensitive to shock, higher expected lifetime&#xD;&#xA;* Considerably less energy consumption, so longer battery life. Less of a factor if you spin down the HDD for most of the time&#xD;&#xA;* Less weight (around 100 grams)&#xD;&#xA;* No humming&#xD;&#xA;* Performance of laptop HDDs is especially low, so even for storage read/write performance can be a factor when moving data around&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10819" RevisionGUID="ba4e41dc-574c-4317-9c79-04c783dfe562" CreationDate="2019-03-28T14:19:59.130" UserId="9423" Text="The only board I see on the market is the ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITX. This is because HDMI 2.0 was, for whatever reason, sparsely offered by LGA1151 boards. The alternative is Display Port. HDMI 2.0 is feature-matched by DP 1.2 and affordable adapters exist (make sure to get the right one though).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Gigabyte GA-B250N Phoenix-WIFI&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS ROG Strix H270I Gaming&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming&#xD;&#xA;* MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC&#xD;&#xA;* Supermicro X11SSV-Q&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some of these boards come with a removable WIFI module.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have more luck finding cheap boards by going micro ATX (with DP, not with HDMI 2.0)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36808" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10820" RevisionGUID="62ac1743-5f3b-44b6-9957-f92010fc2df2" CreationDate="2019-03-28T14:27:26.113" UserId="9423" Text="The Supero Core Gaming C9Z390 range of boards (in ATX form factor) offers two Display Port 1.2 outputs. So each can drive a 4K display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supero is a Supermicro brand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10820" RevisionGUID="e1aed9a5-62cd-4d3e-a743-87c3fb9fd575" CreationDate="2019-03-28T14:37:09.607" UserId="9423" Comment="added 69 characters in body" Text="The Supero Core Gaming C9Z390 range of boards (in ATX form factor) offers two Display Port 1.2 outputs. So each can drive a 4K display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supero is a Supermicro brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, a few boards offer a HDMI 2.0 port plus a DP port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36813" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="a8e5f83a-0b97-41ee-b61c-b8426cab4f31" CreationDate="2019-03-28T20:10:48.713" UserId="10960" Comment="almost answering my own question, because it's easier to figure out everything on my own, than convincing the moderators of this site to let people help each other" Text="Which kind of `USB-C Hub` allows me to charge a mobile phone (Samsung S8) via its only port (USB-C) and at the same time connect the USB-C video/hdmi out and a USB keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to use the S8 as a full android desktop computer, with monitor, mouse and keyboard, and at the same time charge its battery. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, I am looking for a cheaper alternative for the `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Tested a regular `usb-c hub` and it does all this, except charging.&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend money in a 'special' usb-c hub to later find out that it doesn't charge the phone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure if every USB-C hubs branded as `PD`/`Power Delivery` will charge the phone, or the power is delivered to the attached peripherals such an external usb hard drive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36814" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="a8e5f83a-0b97-41ee-b61c-b8426cab4f31" CreationDate="2019-03-28T20:10:48.713" UserId="10960" Comment="almost answering my own question, because it's easier to figure out everything on my own, than convincing the moderators of this site to let people help each other" Text="Power-In + Video-Out + USB Out for mobile phone? (Samsung S8)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="79bb31ec-af5e-48a7-9dbc-a18bf4bb9713" CreationDate="2019-03-29T08:39:07.040" UserId="11016" Text="Basically i want to create a camera device that will monitor a parking lot and using image processing will be able to detect if the slots in the parking lot has a car or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a code in python that detects if there is a car in a parking lot slot. The code basically crops the slot, uses edge detection, and from there counts the amount of whiteness in an image. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just need some recommendations on what hardware and camera  to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36825" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="79bb31ec-af5e-48a7-9dbc-a18bf4bb9713" CreationDate="2019-03-29T08:39:07.040" UserId="11016" Text="What’s a good microprocessor/microcontroller for image processing using OpenCV in python" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36826" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="79bb31ec-af5e-48a7-9dbc-a18bf4bb9713" CreationDate="2019-03-29T08:39:07.040" UserId="11016" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="ce83f007-3551-4631-8e2e-9aee9c9d08da" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:06:30.173" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization" Text="Basically I want to create a camera device that will monitor a parking lot and using image processing will be able to detect if the slots in the parking lot has a car or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have a code in Python that detects if there is a car in a parking lot slot. The code basically crops the slot, uses edge detection, and from there counts the amount of whiteness in an image. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just need some recommendations on what hardware and camera  to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36835" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="ce83f007-3551-4631-8e2e-9aee9c9d08da" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:06:30.173" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization" Text="What’s a good microprocessor/microcontroller for image processing using OpenCV in Python?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36836" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="ce83f007-3551-4631-8e2e-9aee9c9d08da" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:06:30.173" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36837" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="ce83f007-3551-4631-8e2e-9aee9c9d08da" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:06:30.173" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 8 edit id of 827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36838" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="9e8c3f09-5d0d-440a-8a64-7ff13aa93826" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:06:40.097" UserId="8" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="36841" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10824" RevisionGUID="95795101-0cff-4bff-abe1-397acb1c473e" CreationDate="2019-03-29T16:37:49.603" UserId="11016" Comment="edited title" Text="What’s a good microprocessor/microcontroller and camera that has enough power and resolution for image processing videos of cars in a parking lot?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36857" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="c1a367b6-3d6f-40d2-ab76-23c95481e7d1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T08:11:49.557" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36858" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="c1a367b6-3d6f-40d2-ab76-23c95481e7d1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T08:11:49.557" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 7098 edit id of 824" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36865" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="360836ee-5d5c-494e-a10d-57df4fbe7974" CreationDate="2019-03-30T14:52:55.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36883" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="a66a9cf7-ca30-4023-b8a8-ec5037169130" CreationDate="2019-03-31T19:56:32.870" UserId="11034" Text="I have a lenovo(running on linux) with fullhd 15' screen, core i7 and 8gb ram and the issue is that everyday after coding for 8+ hours i just want to kill myself because i have headaches and really blurry vision.(and Im concerned about long term vision damage because i have 100/100) The issue seems to be the PWM flickering which is set at 200 HZ at this model(have really high end monitor at home and having no issues at all) also battery life is just non-existent at 1.5 hours and after this i dont even want too look at lenovo laptops, terrible experience all in all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Im looking for an upgrade and i know that macbook Pro/air, dell xps13 definitely PWM higher that 200hz. So i wanted to ask a question if macbook air will be sufficient for web dev or need something more powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also any suggestions on laptops with decent screens and good keyboards." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36884" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="a66a9cf7-ca30-4023-b8a8-ec5037169130" CreationDate="2019-03-31T19:56:32.870" UserId="11034" Text="Macbook air 2018/macbook pro 13 or any other laptop for web dev" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36885" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="a66a9cf7-ca30-4023-b8a8-ec5037169130" CreationDate="2019-03-31T19:56:32.870" UserId="11034" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="c481a882-48e2-450c-925b-7f5a0b15225c" CreationDate="2019-03-31T22:16:47.410" UserId="11036" Text="**Context:** I want to store data in digital format, and then destroy it. Let for the moment put physical destruction of the drive (hammer/degausser) aside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** which hard drives will be most suitable for storing the data so that it can then be completely destroyed? Note: crypto-shredding isn't enough, I want to erase the encrypted data as well. These are to be chosen between USB, HDD, SSD, SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I think that this choice should break into:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*First thing to do is choose a type of disk.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over USB/SD: some useful ATA instructions for data erasure should be implemented by the manufacterer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of SSD: ATA instruction might be wrongly implemented by the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of HDD over SSD: digital sanitize the drive by physically writing over every block, and this wouldn't rely on a possibly wrong implementation of ATA instructions by the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of HDD over SSD: Sanitization by the OS might be ineffective because of inaccessible areas of the drive (see end of page 7 and beginning of page 8 in [0]). Also, in case of an external drive connected to the USB port, ATA instruction might have a hard time being delivered: From [1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some &quot;intelligent&quot; interfaces such as USB or firewire to PATA/SATA&#xD;&#xA;&gt; bridges, SAS controllers or hardware RAID controllers may try to reset&#xD;&#xA;&gt; devices which they have decided are no longer responding. WARNING: Do&#xD;&#xA;&gt; not attempt to do this through a USB interface!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over HDD: The ability to self-encrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Second thing to choose is the manufacturer.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on the choice of the type of disk, in case the firmware is non-opensource hence non-verifiable, the manufacturer should either implement correctly all useful ATA commands (trim, sanitize, secure erase, opal, ATA Password, enhance security erase) and their verification in case we're relying on ATA instructions for sanitization, or the properties of the disk make sanitization by physical rewriting effective in case we rely on this method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In both cases, particular attention should be given to hidden data areas like the host protected area (HPA) and device configuration overlay (DCO), spare sectors, all drive firmware settings, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Third: Verify that sanitization is completed successfully*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drive should enable to user to verify that the sanitization process (of the data, even in encrypted form) is successfully completed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[0] https://cmrr.ucsd.edu/_files/data-sanitization-tutorial.pdf [1] https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase [2] https://tinyapps.org/docs/ata_sanitize_hdparm.html [3] https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/qubes-users/A1-MiQwR7D4/8RPw7nWjAQAJ [4] http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&amp;t=1214#p5839 [5] https://tinyapps.org/docs/wipe_drives_hdparm.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36890" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="c481a882-48e2-450c-925b-7f5a0b15225c" CreationDate="2019-03-31T22:16:47.410" UserId="11036" Text="Recommendation: drive which is completely sanitizable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36891" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="c481a882-48e2-450c-925b-7f5a0b15225c" CreationDate="2019-03-31T22:16:47.410" UserId="11036" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36898" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="5e320d22-bbed-45f3-81d3-f1b902c5d37b" CreationDate="2019-04-01T09:01:20.697" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="36905" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="fd6531f9-9589-47f4-b1b9-430c4f2b9c7b" CreationDate="2019-04-01T14:20:06.700" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag and fixed language" Text="I have a Lenovo (running on Linux) with full hd 15&quot; screen, Core i7 and 8GB RAM and the issue is, that everyday after coding for 8+ hours, I just want to kill myself because I have headaches and really blurry vision (and I'm concerned about long term vision damage because I have 100/100). The issue seems to be the PWM flickering which is set at 200 HZ at this model (I have a really high-end monitor at home and having no issues at all) also battery life is just non-existent at 1.5 hours and after this I dont even want too look at Lenovo laptops, terrible experience all in all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an upgrade and I know that Macbook Pro/Air, Dell XPS 13 definitely PWM higher that 200hz. So I wanted to ask a question if Macbook Air will be sufficient for web dev or do I need something more powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also any suggestions on laptops with decent screens and a good keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36906" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="fd6531f9-9589-47f4-b1b9-430c4f2b9c7b" CreationDate="2019-04-01T14:20:06.700" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag and fixed language" Text="Macbook Air 2018 / Macbook Pro 13 or any other laptop for web dev" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36907" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="fd6531f9-9589-47f4-b1b9-430c4f2b9c7b" CreationDate="2019-04-01T14:20:06.700" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag and fixed language" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36908" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10836" RevisionGUID="fd6531f9-9589-47f4-b1b9-430c4f2b9c7b" CreationDate="2019-04-01T14:20:06.700" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 11034 edit id of 831" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10846" RevisionGUID="e4ce80e3-82ae-4faf-8816-ef825ce2d85d" CreationDate="2019-04-01T21:46:08.387" UserId="11046" Text="[![fan power][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQhvU.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All I can say about the cable is that it delivers power to fans, but I'm not sure what to search in order buy more since one of them broke." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36919" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10846" RevisionGUID="e4ce80e3-82ae-4faf-8816-ef825ce2d85d" CreationDate="2019-04-01T21:46:08.387" UserId="11046" Text="What is this connector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36920" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10846" RevisionGUID="e4ce80e3-82ae-4faf-8816-ef825ce2d85d" CreationDate="2019-04-01T21:46:08.387" UserId="11046" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10847" RevisionGUID="7c93057c-3bd1-4570-87ce-7f587fe9a8f1" CreationDate="2019-04-01T22:12:55.493" UserId="6089" Text="A quick google search starting with &quot;trailer wiring connector&quot; had led me to believe that using &quot;2 way flat connector&quot; may be the answer you seek.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![two way flat connector][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above image is from an amazon link, but you'll also find this type of wiring at auto parts stores and possibly a few warehouse/big box stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically used for automotive applications, they provide some semblance of weather proofing as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rd9DO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10849" RevisionGUID="eb157c55-d316-458c-b475-322d19b55b43" CreationDate="2019-04-02T10:42:52.183" UserId="11049" Text="I created the question but I cannot modify it nor comment.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the comment, but the drive has to be non-volatile.&#xD;&#xA;Can you please modify the question as follows (and then fix this into a comment)?:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Context:** I want to store data in digital format, and then destroy it. Let for the moment put physical destruction of the drive (hammer/degausser) aside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** which non-volatile drives will be most suitable for storing the data so that it can then be completely destroyed? Note: crypto-shredding isn't enough, I want to erase the encrypted data as well. These are to be chosen between USB, HDD, SSD, SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I think that this choice should break into:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*General philosophy.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT A:** I strongly prefer open-hardware (and an open-source firmware, so that I know what it's doing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*First thing to do is choose a type of disk.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over USB/SD: some useful ATA instructions for data erasure should be implemented by the manufacterer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of SSD: ATA instruction might be wrongly implemented by the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of HDD over SSD: digital sanitize the drive by physically writing over every block, and this wouldn't rely on a possibly wrong implementation of ATA instructions by the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of HDD over SSD: Sanitization by the OS might be ineffective because of inaccessible areas of the drive (see end of page 7 and beginning of page 8 in [0]). Also, in case of an external drive connected to the USB port, ATA instruction might have a hard time being delivered: From [1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some &quot;intelligent&quot; interfaces such as USB or firewire to PATA/SATA&#xD;&#xA;&gt; bridges, SAS controllers or hardware RAID controllers may try to reset&#xD;&#xA;&gt; devices which they have decided are no longer responding. WARNING: Do&#xD;&#xA;&gt; not attempt to do this through a USB interface!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over HDD: The ability to self-encrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Second thing to choose is the manufacturer.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on the choice of the type of disk, in case the firmware is non-opensource hence non-verifiable, the manufacturer should either implement correctly all useful ATA commands (trim, sanitize, secure erase, opal, ATA Password, enhance security erase) and their verification in case we're relying on ATA instructions for sanitization, or the properties of the disk make sanitization by physical rewriting effective in case we rely on this method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT B:** In both cases, particular attention should be given to hidden data areas like the host protected area (HPA) and device configuration overlay (DCO), spare sectors, all drive firmware settings etc, especially in case wear leveling is implemented by the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Third: Verify that sanitization is completed successfully*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drive should enable to user to verify that the sanitization process (of the data, even in encrypted form) is successfully completed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[0] https://cmrr.ucsd.edu/_files/data-sanitization-tutorial.pdf [1] https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase [2] https://tinyapps.org/docs/ata_sanitize_hdparm.html [3] https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/qubes-users/A1-MiQwR7D4/8RPw7nWjAQAJ [4] http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&amp;t=1214#p5839 [5] https://tinyapps.org/docs/wipe_drives_hdparm.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10855" RevisionGUID="1dc8ca0f-e56b-4c53-ac96-dd44db836e7c" CreationDate="2019-04-03T12:53:43.027" UserId="3671" Text="I am searching for an OLED display with a capacitive touch screen which I can use with my sbc. I am not 100% sure yet, but most likely I'll settle with the RPI Compute module, so DSI displays which work with it are also an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have a display which can be used without a pen and have a &quot;modern&quot; feel and look, as well as good image quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This display would be perfect, however, it is discontinued and I was unable to find anything comparable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1779.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display size should be about 5-6 inch 16:9." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36944" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10855" RevisionGUID="1dc8ca0f-e56b-4c53-ac96-dd44db836e7c" CreationDate="2019-04-03T12:53:43.027" UserId="3671" Text="hdmi/dsi 5 inch oled capacitive touch screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36945" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10855" RevisionGUID="1dc8ca0f-e56b-4c53-ac96-dd44db836e7c" CreationDate="2019-04-03T12:53:43.027" UserId="3671" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36951" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10855" RevisionGUID="16e514b1-2f2e-40d0-b1f8-37cde10f5722" CreationDate="2019-04-04T00:30:33.137" UserId="3671" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I am searching for an OLED display with a capacitive touch screen which I can use with my sbc. I am not 100% sure yet, but most likely I'll settle with the RPI Compute module, so DSI displays which work with it are also an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have a display which can be used without a pen and have a &quot;modern&quot; feel and look, as well as good image quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This display would be perfect, however, it is discontinued and I was unable to find anything comparable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1779.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Display size should be about 5-6 inch 16:9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As long as the price is reasonable, I don't really have a price limit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10861" RevisionGUID="b3fba7cb-e7b0-4fe3-a16d-6c8a17b38229" CreationDate="2019-04-04T12:43:26.450" UserId="10739" Text="You could probably find a used Samsung Gear S2 in great condition for around $45 to $75, I know I have.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at `craigslist.org` or your local similar sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Samsung Gear S2 is a great watch that is programmable through [Samsung Developers][1] and has a lot of downloadable apps and watch faces to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.samsung.com/galaxy-watch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36979" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10863" RevisionGUID="b34ec8ec-0a9f-4a56-9257-ddcfd15aee7a" CreationDate="2019-04-04T14:51:15.743" UserId="3934" Text="### A [POWER9](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/POWER9)-based computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If having an x86-64 architecture is really _optional_ instead of a requirement, there are now desktop motherboards designed around the POWER9 CPU by IBM. I have no affiliation with this company and no experience with the platform but [here](https://www.raptorcs.com/content/BK1B02/intro.html) is an example of a µATX-based motherboard with a single 8-core (32 thread) CPU and consumer-grade expansions like SATA and PCIe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only thing not on the checklist is that it lacks two out of six SATA ports - there are only four. Otherwise there's ECC RAM, AES acceleration, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Performance&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The POWER9 CPU is used by the two fastest super computers in the world as of [november 2018](https://www.top500.org/list/2018/11/) so it's definitely a powerhorse comparable to the fastest server offerings by Intel and AMD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compiler optimizations for the POWER9 is not yet on the same level as the &quot;ultra-tweaked&quot; x86-64 clang/gcc, and certain number-crunching applications currently hand optimized for the x86-64 SSE may still not be as fast but it seems that IBM has people working on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Software/OS support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know this is _not_ an option if you want to run Windows, but Linux and FreeBSD supports it, and my OS of choice Debian supports it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how things like Wine, QEMU or VirtualBox works when trying to run x86 binaries. It is possible that you can get sufficient performance on certain applications with a good JIT-based translator but I have not read anything about it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36980" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="3e2e9f14-65e5-47f3-9f5f-a3b4110d9a1b" CreationDate="2019-04-04T17:31:12.183" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags and fixed language" Text="I bought [the cheapest that Amazon has][1] and found that the battery only lasted a few hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to charge once a week, might accept once per day, but no less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No fancy features are necessary (maybe notification of incoming calls &amp; SMS), as I want it primarily for telling the time, but also to program my own apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is tight, can anyone recommend a cheap Android watch with decent battery life, which they have personally used for a while (maybe even programmed)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone at all?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] Almost three years later, has anything changed?  &#xD;&#xA;Surely there must be something for now? I would prefer sub-$50, but I can be somewhat flexible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to be able to add my own app to it, and it must have either WiFi or Bluetooth, preferably BTLE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Bluetooth-select-Android-Samsung-models/dp/B00KARD0D2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36981" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="3e2e9f14-65e5-47f3-9f5f-a3b4110d9a1b" CreationDate="2019-04-04T17:31:12.183" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags and fixed language" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36982" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2425" RevisionGUID="3e2e9f14-65e5-47f3-9f5f-a3b4110d9a1b" CreationDate="2019-04-04T17:31:12.183" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 1410 edit id of 836" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36987" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10865" RevisionGUID="f01d5635-4d0a-44f8-a9ae-f9de77ef475f" CreationDate="2019-04-04T22:02:13.047" UserId="10739" Text="When it comes to quiet earplugs then Sony’s noise-cancelling model [Sony WF-1000X][1] is a great choise at around £90 on sale in Sweden right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A budget alternative would be the [Optoma NuForce BE2][2] which you can find for about £35 in online stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.whathifi.com/sony/wf-1000x/review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.digitaltrends.com/headphone-reviews/optoma-nuforce-be2-review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36995" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10866" RevisionGUID="5f493444-b805-46ed-ab55-8808bd775f9b" CreationDate="2019-04-05T03:33:16.570" UserId="9394" Text="I am working on Dell Optiplex 755 Mini Tower (MT). I have upgraded it to Core 2 Quad Q6700 and 8 GB memory. The base board is Dell 0GM819. Tech Specs are **[here][1]** on page 5. The PCI Express x16 connector (SLOT1) is occupied by my NVIDIA GeForce GT 710. But it looks like I have PCI Express x1 connector (SLOT4) and two PCI connector (SLOT2 and 3) unused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which kind of SSD (M.2/PICe etc. as well as the brand name) should I buy and where should I put it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a last resort, I could put a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD in a caddy but not sure if there are any other better options available.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/opti_755_techspecs.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36996" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10866" RevisionGUID="5f493444-b805-46ed-ab55-8808bd775f9b" CreationDate="2019-04-05T03:33:16.570" UserId="9394" Text="SSD for single PCIe slot occcupied" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36997" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10866" RevisionGUID="5f493444-b805-46ed-ab55-8808bd775f9b" CreationDate="2019-04-05T03:33:16.570" UserId="9394" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="36998" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10846" RevisionGUID="6399f66a-3048-43d4-bd84-3596a00304fc" CreationDate="2019-04-05T04:21:19.167" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="37008" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10640" RevisionGUID="429de6f9-18fe-4f78-8984-952e6cce153c" CreationDate="2019-04-05T11:30:31.897" UserId="6122" Comment="Apparently there's no such a cheap option, so increasing the cost limit" Text="I'm looking for a photo camera capable of taking photos of the whole sky from zenith to the horizon. The camera must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* have field of view at least 180°&#xD;&#xA;* provide RAW format photos&#xD;&#xA;* be controllable from a PC (to set exposure, trigger the shutter etc.)&#xD;&#xA;* have &quot;bulb&quot; shutter mode&#xD;&#xA;* have low enough noise to be usable for easily shooting visible stars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maximum desirable price is about US$300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have Canon 1100D (not counting against the max price) which satisfies almost all the above points, but doesn't have any wide-enough-angle lens. Since it has a cropped sensor, I'm not sure I'll be able to find any fisheye lens to get 180° FOV. But if you know of a cheap enough suitable lens, it'll be a good answer. Otherwise, I expect some solution independent of my existing camera." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37009" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10640" RevisionGUID="429de6f9-18fe-4f78-8984-952e6cce153c" CreationDate="2019-04-05T11:30:31.897" UserId="6122" Comment="Apparently there's no such a cheap option, so increasing the cost limit" Text="180° FOV camera with RAW output for under US$300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37017" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10815" RevisionGUID="5aedc930-1ac3-4980-9d89-a41859322948" CreationDate="2019-04-05T13:29:38.020" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="37024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="d0e0692e-0136-4efb-95a9-6e27de7e5542" CreationDate="2019-04-05T22:12:23.657" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I am a developer, I mostly develop web applications (full stack JavaScript) and websites (mainly WordPress). I use tools like Git, Vagrant (and other kinds of virtualizations), Photoshop, and have a browser open with lots of tabs. Most often lightweight IDEs like Atom, but it happens that I use more heavy IDEs like Webstorm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am now looking after a new laptop to buy. I don't want a MacBook and I have been thinking about some of the Laptops from Lenovo's Yoga (2016) Series. But I am not entirely sure about this, mainly because I will dual-boot Windows with Ubuntu (Linux) and I will probably spend more time in Ubuntu then Windows. So a computer that has touch screen does not feel that optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would like some recommendations/advice on laptops that are good for my purpose. I am looking for something around the 800-1400 USD price range with SSD and good amount of RAM and a 14&quot; screen. But most importantly I want something that &quot;just works&quot;; in other words, I want a laptop that I can be happy with and that does not come with 102 different bugs and issues." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37025" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2738" RevisionGUID="d0e0692e-0136-4efb-95a9-6e27de7e5542" CreationDate="2019-04-05T22:12:23.657" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 9526 edit id of 826" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="f396e37e-db95-46fd-bca0-4979a13fa2c9" CreationDate="2019-04-07T00:02:14.910" UserId="10960" Comment="..." Text="I am looking for a cheaper alternative for the `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some phones like my Samsung S8, which happens to be a [Samsung Dex compatible device][1] can be turned into a full android desktop computer using a `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A `USB-C Hub/multiport adapter` is a device that connects to a computer or phone via USB-C, and allows me to connect a USB-B device (like a wireless mouse and keyboard combo) and a HDMI monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I use a regular `USB-C Hub/multiport adapter` with the Samsung S8, the phone connects to the monitor, keyboard and mouse, providing a similar experience to the expensive `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`, with one big exception: The phone does not charge, the battery drains slowly. I've heard some usb-c hubs do charge the device they connect to, but I dont know which ones. So, the question...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the name of the 'feature' that the `USB-C Hub` must have so I can recognize if it will transfer power to the master device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_DeX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10877" RevisionGUID="f2607869-799f-4890-ab21-b7d827f4b488" CreationDate="2019-04-07T18:32:24.010" UserId="11099" Text="So i am doing a project where i want to fetch the body temperature using kinect. I know that it has an IR sensor built into it, but am not sure if it is capable of measuring the body temperature. Please guide.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37063" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10877" RevisionGUID="f2607869-799f-4890-ab21-b7d827f4b488" CreationDate="2019-04-07T18:32:24.010" UserId="11099" Text="I wanted to know if calculating body temperature using KINECT's IR camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37064" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10877" RevisionGUID="f2607869-799f-4890-ab21-b7d827f4b488" CreationDate="2019-04-07T18:32:24.010" UserId="11099" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10878" RevisionGUID="62804062-7355-4a6c-9ee2-f399a529a65b" CreationDate="2019-04-07T23:06:25.557" UserId="10739" Text="No, I don't think it's possible to do any accurate thermal reading with the Kinect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using [Kinect SDK][1] you can customize and extend the functionality of the Kinect, but the sensor just isn't build for doing accurate temperatur readings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The infrared emitter output on the Kinect is too diffuse and its field of view is too wide. The Kinect also doesn't cover the entire infrared wave length (.9 - 14μm) necessary to do any accurate thermal imaging.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=44561" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10880" RevisionGUID="60f7b283-85e5-4b4a-acc7-432ef1baf15d" CreationDate="2019-04-08T12:55:59.113" UserId="11104" Text="I want to make a stomp box with a single button that will record an event time. I’d like the box to be able to record the event directly to a web database (there are plenty of ways to do this, but I’ll probably write a PHP api to listen for the connection).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What hardware would be best? I’ve got experience with the Arduino board, but I ‘d prefer that the box run off AA batteries. My previous Arduino projects have been a bit power-intensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37074" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10880" RevisionGUID="60f7b283-85e5-4b4a-acc7-432ef1baf15d" CreationDate="2019-04-08T12:55:59.113" UserId="11104" Text="Making a WiFi event recorder" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37075" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10880" RevisionGUID="60f7b283-85e5-4b4a-acc7-432ef1baf15d" CreationDate="2019-04-08T12:55:59.113" UserId="11104" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37083" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="10877" RevisionGUID="c37096ab-0a28-424c-873e-953ee91b1cf7" CreationDate="2019-04-08T22:49:18.207" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="37089" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="f2123fa1-da62-4e4c-8e76-4de72c6adf90" CreationDate="2019-04-09T01:01:20.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10884" RevisionGUID="e27ab60c-2bdf-4a21-a518-a1aaa1cab6df" CreationDate="2019-04-09T17:40:03.890" UserId="10562" Text="I need to find a touchscreen monitor, preferably 24&quot; or close to that, that is not a capacitive touchscreen (preferably resistive or optical), and is Linux-compatible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had extremely bad luck finding anything along these lines and am wondering if I'll find anything. Most of the monitors I've been able to find by ViewSonic (TD2220 and TD2421) specify that they're Windows 7/8/10 only, but I've found a handful of reviews and Google results stating that basic touch functionality works in Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that touchscreens aren't hot on the market, so I'm not surprised that the results are limited, but I'm a little disappointed that there are so few that work with Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10884" RevisionGUID="e27ab60c-2bdf-4a21-a518-a1aaa1cab6df" CreationDate="2019-04-09T17:40:03.890" UserId="10562" Text="Linux-Compatible Touchscreen Monitors (Non-Capacitive)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10884" RevisionGUID="e27ab60c-2bdf-4a21-a518-a1aaa1cab6df" CreationDate="2019-04-09T17:40:03.890" UserId="10562" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37111" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8bd12d6c-bac6-4dda-ba25-1075bb1bace5" CreationDate="2019-04-09T18:59:35.310" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag home-security" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37112" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6402" RevisionGUID="8bd12d6c-bac6-4dda-ba25-1075bb1bace5" CreationDate="2019-04-09T18:59:35.310" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 5120 edit id of 839" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="eb913ac4-1ad2-4076-87ba-c28a34edb366" CreationDate="2019-04-09T20:24:38.300" UserId="11114" Text="I have a Ryzen 2600 and I won't OC. I find the default cooler too noisy (I don't have heating problems, max temp after a stress test of 67ºC). I have checked some candidates and I've seen their max dB, but most of the time I won't have my CPU at 100%. My priority is reducing noise. I have the following candidates: Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT, Thermalright ARO-M14G, Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 and be quiet! Dark Rock 4. The prices are approximately the same. Which one do you recommend me? Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37114" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="eb913ac4-1ad2-4076-87ba-c28a34edb366" CreationDate="2019-04-09T20:24:38.300" UserId="11114" Text="Fan for Ryzen 2600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37115" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="eb913ac4-1ad2-4076-87ba-c28a34edb366" CreationDate="2019-04-09T20:24:38.300" UserId="11114" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37116" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="078ab54f-93a2-4036-bc8a-3b01c99ec45d" CreationDate="2019-04-09T21:34:40.467" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag processor and made it easier to read" Text="I have a `Ryzen 2600` and I won't OC. I find the default cooler too noisy (I don't have heating problems, max temp after a stress test was 67ºC).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My priority is reducing noise. I have checked some candidates and I've seen their max dB, but most of the time I won't have my CPU at 100%.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the following candidates: `Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT`, `Thermalright ARO-M14G`, `Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4` and `Be Quiet! Dark Rock 4`. The prices are approximately the same. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one do you recommend me? Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37117" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="078ab54f-93a2-4036-bc8a-3b01c99ec45d" CreationDate="2019-04-09T21:34:40.467" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag processor and made it easier to read" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37118" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10887" RevisionGUID="078ab54f-93a2-4036-bc8a-3b01c99ec45d" CreationDate="2019-04-09T21:34:40.467" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 11114 edit id of 840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37130" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="9dc3ebd0-bb99-43a4-9c70-07ce115efc87" CreationDate="2019-04-10T04:05:41.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37142" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="50932d8d-6d67-4055-98ce-5b3a2a46831c" CreationDate="2019-04-10T11:01:55.330" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37143" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="3fa38eb5-f79b-4658-8843-895ddf84eee0" CreationDate="2019-04-10T12:01:20.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37166" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="b5373809-294c-4113-a4cb-1d7255f5a5ea" CreationDate="2019-04-11T01:00:50.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37170" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="e74c4822-a3c0-4680-aed3-ef39cd9f3bab" CreationDate="2019-04-11T02:00:22.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37172" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="90c25190-bf96-4973-868a-86ed468f9ae2" CreationDate="2019-04-11T10:02:10.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37197" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="1fcc0b7c-c811-4a07-83b5-a4254aa85898" CreationDate="2019-04-11T15:02:25.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37198" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10906" RevisionGUID="2233b666-3689-43cd-8429-aa2563954b2a" CreationDate="2019-04-11T16:26:15.897" UserId="5961" Text="quI'm trying to setup a gigabits wifi:&#xD;&#xA;- around 20+ clients, but around 4 require a actual gigabit links.&#xD;&#xA;- Clients are in a 15meter range 49 (feet?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was dealing with a non-pro configuration at the moment :&#xD;&#xA;NETGEAR Orbi Ultimate Whole Home Mesh Wi-Fi System (Router + 2 Satellite Extenders), (6000 sq ft Coverage)AC3000 (RBK53)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue with this, (not to mention the leak of VLAN and etc) is the speed...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did some iPerf and even an ethernet link from the router &gt; to the Orbi AP, the link is between 500/680Mb/s only (so not gonna even mention WiFi speed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking : EdgeRouter 12 + &#xD;&#xA;Ubiquiti UAP-AC-HD * 2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or I read some post mentioning this setup :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UAP-AC-HD * 2&#xD;&#xA;1 switch (perhaps a unifi-switch-8)&#xD;&#xA;UBIQUITI Networks Unifi Security Gateway &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I read some review saying that the DPI/IPS from the security gateway does reduce the speed a lot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I go for?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37199" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10906" RevisionGUID="2233b666-3689-43cd-8429-aa2563954b2a" CreationDate="2019-04-11T16:26:15.897" UserId="5961" Text="WiFi equipment for Gigabit link" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37200" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10906" RevisionGUID="2233b666-3689-43cd-8429-aa2563954b2a" CreationDate="2019-04-11T16:26:15.897" UserId="5961" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37204" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="10880" RevisionGUID="a8664158-6bc1-499d-b5ed-b141fc748b12" CreationDate="2019-04-11T17:52:07.837" UserId="11104" Comment="84" />
  <row Id="37205" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="0bc476a0-f4d3-4f5b-84cb-301f4e70a1af" CreationDate="2019-04-11T20:03:20.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10908" RevisionGUID="ff59508f-9b32-4503-bb3b-a300ca100ad2" CreationDate="2019-04-11T20:54:37.463" UserId="10889" Text="Instead of choosing an Arduino board, use an ESP8266 variant which natively supports Arduino sketches. You can use a relay or directly connect a button to the I/O pins and detect whenever a button is triggered - triggering the server to push the timestamp to a database, increasing the count of the stomp in the database. Instead of writing a PHP application. An easy choice would be to push data to [Firebase](https://firebase.google.com/) - unless you find this task more tedious." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37207" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="413bf29a-1eab-46aa-9d39-0ec64d67db59" CreationDate="2019-04-11T21:02:30.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37209" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="f44370db-161b-46ca-ab03-22ad62c709be" CreationDate="2019-04-12T00:01:15.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10909" RevisionGUID="025c0427-3377-4490-a48f-6ef4200a36c9" CreationDate="2019-04-12T06:59:13.587" UserId="540" Text="I'm looking for a PCIe-based SATA card, to add more internal SATA-III ports. While a great many of them exist, most are based on [an old Marvell series of controllers](https://www.marvell.com/storage/system-solutions/assets/Marvell-88SE92xx-002-product-brief.pdf) or the equivalent ASMedia (ASM1061?) controller, which only support PCIe 2.0. Due to a lack of motherboard PCIe slots, and a desire to maximise speed with minimal lanes taken, I would like a card that at least supports PCIe 3.0 transfer speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not need a specific card suggestion (while one would be nice), if I can get a controller model I can chase down further. New and second-hand are both fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Must be PCIe v3.0 or higher, i.e. at least 8 GT/s per lane.&#xD;&#xA;* Must support SATA-III (6 Gbit/s) (probably a given if it meets the PCIe requirement).&#xD;&#xA;* Ports should be standard internal SATA (or SAS with the appropriate cable) ports. M.2 and eSATA are unnecessary.&#xD;&#xA;* TRIM support for SSDs (this can probably be assumed in any modern controller).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Soft requirements, descending order of importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* As few PCIe lanes as possible. x4 is acceptable. x2 is better. x1 is *great*.&#xD;&#xA;* As many ports as possible. 2 is enough, but more is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional, nice-to-have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* SAS support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unimportant:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* M.2, eSATA. &#xD;&#xA;* RAID. I'm not going to do hardware raid.&#xD;&#xA;* Caching. See: no RAID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: soft cap of $200, though I'm open to higher if necessary" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37218" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10909" RevisionGUID="025c0427-3377-4490-a48f-6ef4200a36c9" CreationDate="2019-04-12T06:59:13.587" UserId="540" Text="PCIe v3.0 SATA-III controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37219" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10909" RevisionGUID="025c0427-3377-4490-a48f-6ef4200a36c9" CreationDate="2019-04-12T06:59:13.587" UserId="540" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10912" RevisionGUID="bcd59e9b-4d1a-4e4a-8e55-a3ddeecb896c" CreationDate="2019-04-12T12:46:53.147" UserId="4276" Text="My actual single screen setup is an Asus ROG Strix Radeon RX 470 Gaming OC 4GB GDDR5 (2x DVI-D, 1x HDMI, 1x DisplayPort 1.2; max resolution 5120x2880) on which I have connected an 21:9 2560x1080 screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While this was ok and offered me a lot of possibilities (like simultaneous dual half-screen windows with **huge** viewport size or cinematic movies without black boxes) I need to increase my working space for sake of productivity and I'm currently planning on get a second Full HD monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a personal setup, so I often use my current monitor for gaming (assume Windows 10), but I would need the second monitor to track other activities as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can I plug a second monitor on another of the available video outputs and work with it simultaneously?&#xD;&#xA;- If not, could I use the DisplayPort output with a signal splitter? Which one would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;- If none of the above, I guess I should upgrade my GPU. Any recommendation under 300€ that would fit my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37228" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10912" RevisionGUID="bcd59e9b-4d1a-4e4a-8e55-a3ddeecb896c" CreationDate="2019-04-12T12:46:53.147" UserId="4276" Text="Dual monitor setup on a Radeon RX 470 (total resolution 4480x1080)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37229" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10912" RevisionGUID="bcd59e9b-4d1a-4e4a-8e55-a3ddeecb896c" CreationDate="2019-04-12T12:46:53.147" UserId="4276" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10913" RevisionGUID="a37838fc-9920-40a8-9393-e5555aa56ff0" CreationDate="2019-04-12T14:40:05.940" UserId="10803" Text="I'm searching smart door lock for my small business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked [Xiaomi Aqara Smart Door Lock][1], [Igloohome][2], [Samsung lockers][3] but all af them CAN NOT log door openings by mechanical key. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know smart door lock which CAN log openings by mechanical key ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gearbest.com/access-control/pp_1142172.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.igloohome.co/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.samsungdigitallife.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10913" RevisionGUID="a37838fc-9920-40a8-9393-e5555aa56ff0" CreationDate="2019-04-12T14:40:05.940" UserId="10803" Text="Smart door lock with logging of mechanical key opening" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10913" RevisionGUID="a37838fc-9920-40a8-9393-e5555aa56ff0" CreationDate="2019-04-12T14:40:05.940" UserId="10803" Text="&lt;security&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37233" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="7ceb2d22-3c23-415b-9214-ff4a85b4b8bb" CreationDate="2019-04-12T15:01:15.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="77acf194-bc19-40bc-ad50-1a33311a0d6e" CreationDate="2019-04-12T16:02:05.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37238" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="8bd943b2-4879-4817-9eb1-fe1b8c6dda0e" CreationDate="2019-04-12T18:01:20.223" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37242" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10916" RevisionGUID="74cd8b8c-e9ce-4f30-a834-9f0fb0b2d4af" CreationDate="2019-04-12T22:41:31.850" UserId="6089" Text="The Sesame smart lock from [Candyhouse][1] allows for bluetooth operation, as many of these products provide, but also allows one to open the deadbolt manually. When the lock is operated manually, from within or outside, logging and notification is available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This may not meet your requirements, as one cannot determine if the action is performed with a key or by an operative within the building.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our Sesame sends a notification to my phone for manual only but I think it logs the bluetooth activations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://candyhouse.co/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37252" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="97a3adf4-f34b-4a83-915c-a49aeb6b5987" CreationDate="2019-04-13T06:02:10.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="718ba256-1603-49e0-91f4-c376be2406ea" CreationDate="2019-04-13T15:02:10.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37272" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="10880" RevisionGUID="a57b5f35-6aa8-4e16-9e5c-a31c5626d960" CreationDate="2019-04-14T12:07:54.867" UserId="11104" Comment="84" />
  <row Id="37278" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="8f41bbd7-82c9-485b-bd7c-6e296b33e6cf" CreationDate="2019-04-14T18:02:55.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37279" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10923" RevisionGUID="b9339679-dff2-4e30-9595-70db1f61b53a" CreationDate="2019-04-14T19:01:56.870" UserId="11158" Text="I have trouble knowing what to call this because it seems fairly uncommon, hence the question. Once I find the correct vocabulary I can update the question title. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for the best type of audio-listening equipment, for either one ear or two ears, **which makes it the most difficult for others in proximity to the wearer to hear what the wearer is listening to**. Basically, noise canceling in reverse. The use case for this is for a developer to listen to music etc in an office with many others which is usually very quiet, without distracting other workers with small background noises. I like to be polite to others working conditions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the purposes of this question I am not concerned with price, wireless capability, or superb audio quality. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37280" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10923" RevisionGUID="b9339679-dff2-4e30-9595-70db1f61b53a" CreationDate="2019-04-14T19:01:56.870" UserId="11158" Text="'Reverse Noise canceling' Headphones / Earphones (for quiet office)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37281" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10923" RevisionGUID="b9339679-dff2-4e30-9595-70db1f61b53a" CreationDate="2019-04-14T19:01:56.870" UserId="11158" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10924" RevisionGUID="feedb28e-092b-4522-a9f9-dd3d2454c36c" CreationDate="2019-04-14T22:04:53.157" UserId="147" Text="I am looking for a switch to instantly choose between two HDMI sources (both 1080p60) and display the chosen feed as the output to another HDMI port. The important part, however, is that the switching must occur instantly and can't cause the inactive source to setup the HDMI connection from scratch when it becomes the active source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, I have a &quot;dumb&quot; HDMI switch that, when pressed, toggles between the left and right HDMI input by directly routing its wires from the input to the output, the equivalent of unplugging one cable and plugging the other cable in. The problem is that the inactive device was essentially unplugged, and then had to initialize a brand new connection (if it's a laptop for example, it has to change screen resolutions, and then perform the necessary HDMI negotiation), which is visible and takes about a second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a device that will constantly read the source HDMI feeds so that the devices believe they are always sending video (regardless of whether it's active or not). It also needs to switch gracefully between frames from either source, not causing any visual artifacts from transitioning mid-frame.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device should support 1080p video (preferably at 60Hz) with minimal or no visual degradation. Two inputs are needed, but having more isn't a problem (unless it's impossible to instantly switch between 1 and 2 because it has to toggle through the series)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10924" RevisionGUID="feedb28e-092b-4522-a9f9-dd3d2454c36c" CreationDate="2019-04-14T22:04:53.157" UserId="147" Text="Seamless HDMI switch (2 or more inputs, 1 output) that doesn't disconnect the inactive source" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10924" RevisionGUID="feedb28e-092b-4522-a9f9-dd3d2454c36c" CreationDate="2019-04-14T22:04:53.157" UserId="147" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10925" RevisionGUID="da26f1a1-a8ee-4216-965c-0f30f8a9b233" CreationDate="2019-04-14T22:29:49.257" UserId="6089" Text="This made for a bit of interesting research. It's challenging to phrase the search terms appropriately, but this may be of assistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Noise cancelling headphones are &quot;obviously&quot; not your objective, but you may find a product that is designated as such that will work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The key term I found was &quot;closed back headphones&quot; which is distinct from open back headphones. In the latter, sound from the drivers (speakers) travel both inward and outward, while in the former, the sound is directed only to the ears.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I've also found is that closed back headphones are typically fully-over-the-ear design, although you may find a few earbuds that purport to direct sound inward only. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There were so many returns and good reviews for specific products that I didn't feel it appropriate to list dozens of links. There may be features of a product that you prefer along with the closed-back aspect that I would overlook." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37303" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="e4a0657e-2a8e-4627-b382-87be7f9b6b7c" CreationDate="2019-04-15T07:01:25.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37304" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="2bc8b2bc-f9d9-42d9-b94d-aece39176a13" CreationDate="2019-04-15T10:01:55.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37308" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="93435163-d5e3-442d-8fc6-01a93c908020" CreationDate="2019-04-15T11:03:10.690" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37331" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9753" RevisionGUID="006bc114-9118-4f85-b616-497448eae0d6" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:04:35.620" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37332" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9753" RevisionGUID="006bc114-9118-4f85-b616-497448eae0d6" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:04:35.620" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 832" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37333" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="cf20ae9e-2d3f-4074-9c4c-cc456790cde1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:07:04.030" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37334" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="579" RevisionGUID="cf20ae9e-2d3f-4074-9c4c-cc456790cde1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:07:04.030" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 834" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37335" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="497450a6-a8e2-49a9-8dbf-91d44535bf4d" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:08:41.363" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37336" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="615" RevisionGUID="497450a6-a8e2-49a9-8dbf-91d44535bf4d" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:08:41.363" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 835" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37338" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="66e18841-8563-47ce-b543-722ebd2bde12" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:09:56.593" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag development" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37339" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1553" RevisionGUID="66e18841-8563-47ce-b543-722ebd2bde12" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:09:56.593" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 829" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37340" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="fa7f1391-bd24-466c-bfa7-f7bf1bd39f85" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:10:35.910" UserId="-1" Comment="Made the question more clear and specific." Text="**Context:** I want to store data in digital format, and then destroy it. Let for the moment put physical destruction of the drive (hammer/degausser) aside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** which non-volatile drives will be most suitable for storing the data so that it can then be completely destroyed? Note: crypto-shredding isn't enough, I want to erase the encrypted data as well. These are to be chosen between USB, HDD, SSD, SD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I think that this choice should break into:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*General philosophy.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT A:** I strongly prefer open-hardware (and an open-source firmware, so that I know what it's doing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*First thing to do is choose a type of disk.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over USB/SD: some useful ATA instructions for data erasure should be implemented by the manufacterer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of SSD: ATA instruction might be wrongly implemented by the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of HDD over SSD: digital sanitize the drive by physically writing over every block, and this wouldn't rely on a possibly wrong implementation of ATA instructions by the manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Drawbacks of HDD over SSD: Sanitization by the OS might be ineffective because of inaccessible areas of the drive (see end of page 7 and beginning of page 8 in [0]). Also, in case of an external drive connected to the USB port, ATA instruction might have a hard time being delivered: From [1]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; some &quot;intelligent&quot; interfaces such as USB or firewire to PATA/SATA&#xD;&#xA;&gt; bridges, SAS controllers or hardware RAID controllers may try to reset&#xD;&#xA;&gt; devices which they have decided are no longer responding. WARNING: Do&#xD;&#xA;&gt; not attempt to do this through a USB interface!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Benefits of SSD over HDD: The ability to self-encrypt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Second thing to choose is the manufacturer.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depending on the choice of the type of disk, in case the firmware is non-opensource hence non-verifiable, the manufacturer should either implement correctly all useful ATA commands (trim, sanitize, secure erase, opal, ATA Password, enhance security erase) and their verification in case we're relying on ATA instructions for sanitization, or the properties of the disk make sanitization by physical rewriting effective in case we rely on this method.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT B:** In both cases, particular attention should be given to hidden data areas like the host protected area (HPA) and device configuration overlay (DCO), spare sectors, all drive firmware settings etc, especially in case wear leveling is implemented by the firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Third: Verify that sanitization is completed successfully*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drive should enable to user to verify that the sanitization process (of the data, even in encrypted form) is successfully completed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**References**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[0] https://cmrr.ucsd.edu/_files/data-sanitization-tutorial.pdf [1] https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase [2] https://tinyapps.org/docs/ata_sanitize_hdparm.html [3] https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/qubes-users/A1-MiQwR7D4/8RPw7nWjAQAJ [4] http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&amp;t=1214#p5839 [5] https://tinyapps.org/docs/wipe_drives_hdparm.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37341" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="fa7f1391-bd24-466c-bfa7-f7bf1bd39f85" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:10:35.910" Comment="Proposed by 85.235.65.198|90531626-e72e-4f0f-812d-bccdb3807d44 approved by 60 edit id of 830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="c4b522d3-af23-43f8-841a-c47d52854cd6" CreationDate="2019-04-16T11:59:09.907" UserId="11177" Text="Just wanted to ask a question if anyone knows about a USB thats considerably fast and capacitive but it doesnt get very hot. Currently I own a SanDisk ultraflair 3.0 and even without moving anything it gets hot, when I was moving approx. 10gb big file i couldnt even touch it for a minute, so I obviously cant run any OS. And My OTG 2.0 usb is too slow. Appreciate any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37358" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="c4b522d3-af23-43f8-841a-c47d52854cd6" CreationDate="2019-04-16T11:59:09.907" UserId="11177" Text="The best USB for a portable system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37359" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="c4b522d3-af23-43f8-841a-c47d52854cd6" CreationDate="2019-04-16T11:59:09.907" UserId="11177" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10500" RevisionGUID="d57faf5f-94f5-4b2e-80f7-a75aec4b51a1" CreationDate="2019-04-16T17:07:38.037" UserDisplayName="user10608" Comment="Updating" Text="Our primary computer is hooked up to the big-screen TV in our living room. It's used for a variety of purposes, including watching streaming services like Netflix, playing games, browsing the web, writing documents, and all those usual things one uses a computer for. We've had this arrangement for many years (probably over a decade, across several computers), and while some keyboards have worked well enough for what we do we've never really found a keyboard we've been thrilled with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(in rough order of priority)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Robust**&#xD;&#xA;    * We have five kids. We use the couch. The keyboard gets dropped, sat on, stepped on, and generally abused in every way one might imagine. While I expect we might need to replace it every few years, we shouldn't need to replace it every few months.&#xD;&#xA;* **A physical on-device power switch**&#xD;&#xA;    * We need to be able to turn off the keyboard when not in use. Otherwise, toddlers and cats will end up typing all over our documents.&#xD;&#xA;* **Compatible with Windows 10**&#xD;&#xA;* **Physical Navigation Keys**&#xD;&#xA;    * It should have arrow keys, PgUp, PgDown, Home, and End keys. They don't necessarily need to be in a standard location or orientation, but shouldn't require a lot of crazy Fn+Shift+whatever combinations in order to use.&#xD;&#xA;* **Wireless**&#xD;&#xA;    * It needs to reach at least 15 feet from the computer, and be reliable.&#xD;&#xA;    * The computer does have Bluetooth built in, so a keyboard that worked over Bluetooth would be better, all else being equal, if only because then it wouldn't take a USB slot with a dongle.&#xD;&#xA;    * In order to be reliable at this distance, even if it's not Bluetooth I'm assuming it would need to be 2.4 GHz. Though if there's another protocol or frequency I'm not familiar with that would work just as well, that'd be fine.&#xD;&#xA;    * Our current computer (an Intel [NUC6i7KYK][1]) only has 4 USB ports total, so minimizing use of them is kinda nice (though not required as we could get a USB hub we we need to). Most of our keyboard and mice have been using the Logitech Unifying system, which is rather nice. If whatever we ended up needed a USB dongle but either worked with that, or was a similar system that allowed for upgrading different peripherals over time, that would be a nice-to-have.&#xD;&#xA;    * It should connect fairly quickly once turned on. It's fairly common when using the computer with kids on our laps to turn it on for typing something quick, and then turn it back off.&#xD;&#xA;    * You may be surprised how low Wireless is down the list. Well, if there's a way to do it wired that we can snake the whole distance around the room and back of the couch, that'd be okay too. I'm just assuming that wireless will be the easiest approach, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong.&#xD;&#xA;* **&quot;Handleable&quot;**&#xD;&#xA;    * I'm not sure what term exactly to use for this, but one needs to be able to set it down, pick it up, set it on one's lap, and use it comfortably. Some keyboards we've tried don't have much room to grip it by without hitting keys, or they don't rest easily on one's lap. It's often used at funny angles with children on our laps.&#xD;&#xA;* **US Standard QWERTY Layout**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **A light indicating Caps Lock**&#xD;&#xA;* **Available from Staples**&#xD;&#xA;    * I'm an employee of Staples, so obviously it's my first choice for this sort of thing, and I get a small discount if I buy from there.&#xD;&#xA;* **A neutral color**&#xD;&#xA;    * Your typical keyboard black or grey is fine. It'd be kind of odd if it were in bright colors.&#xD;&#xA;* **Full-sized layout**&#xD;&#xA;    * It'd be nice if the keys aren't all squished and are their standard size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Budget:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We'd prefer it to be under $50 (US), though would be willing to spend more if there was enough evidence that it would last for a significant length of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## What we've tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The low-end Logitech models, such as the [MK270][2]. The older versions (which used the Logitech Unifying System) are what we've been happiest with in the past, and were surprisingly robust, working for years even after several corners were chipped off. The current versions of them, though, use their own dongle (not a part of the Unifying System), and don't withstand the abuse quite so well.&#xD;&#xA;* The Logitech [K360][3]. We've been really happy with these functionality-wise in terms of being &quot;handleable&quot;, in that it's easy to grab and use. The main problem is that we've broken two in the past year, so they just aren't robust enough. In particular, their power switch seems prone to breaking and being stuck on (so that even when you switch it to Off, the keyboard is still actually On).&#xD;&#xA;* The Logitech [K375s][4]. We tried this for a while, as I wanted to try out a Bluetooth keyboard, but were just really unhappy with it. It's hard to grasp the bottom to use it with the edge tapered down there and it wasn't very &quot;handleable&quot;. It also just felt light and flimsy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Other keyboards we've researched:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Ones that are designed to be &quot;Media&quot; couch keyboards, like the [Microsoft All-in-One Media Wireless Keyboard][5], [Logitech K400][6], or [Kensington K75390US][7]. In fact, the Microsoft one specifically claims to be durable. But they don't have the physical navigation keys, might be a bit smaller than we'd ideally want, and the touchpad just seems superfluous. While we'd probably use it on occasion if we had one, we're pretty happy with using the mouse on the armrest of the couch. Often when browsing the web a mouse is really all that's needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/boards-kits/nuc/nuc-kit-nuc6i7kyk-features-configurations.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/11052?crid=1759&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/keyboard-k360?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k375s-multidevice-keyboard?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.staples.com/Microsoft-All-in-One-Media-Keyboard-USB-Wireless-Media-keyboard-Black-N9Z-00001/product_1020301&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400r?crid=27&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.kensington.com/p/products/control/keyboards/wireless-handheld-keyboard/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37377" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="19b63cfc-f456-485f-90ed-86cd2c190db2" CreationDate="2019-04-17T09:01:26.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="ca065d31-3427-4f33-8af9-d320528bb1c0" CreationDate="2019-04-17T10:03:05.647" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37382" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="c865fdde-d5f6-4b8b-98ab-0ddf41d8d489" CreationDate="2019-04-17T12:13:01.053" UserId="11186" Text="I have the H110M motherboard with 2 4gb sticks of RAM, the motherboard has 2 memory sockets and I wanna increase my memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should I buy a new motherboard with 4 sockets and then 2 8gb ram sticks, or just buy a 16gb stick and remain with the current motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37383" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="c865fdde-d5f6-4b8b-98ab-0ddf41d8d489" CreationDate="2019-04-17T12:13:01.053" UserId="11186" Text="New motherboard and 2 8gb sticks or current motherboard and 1 16gb stick?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37384" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="c865fdde-d5f6-4b8b-98ab-0ddf41d8d489" CreationDate="2019-04-17T12:13:01.053" UserId="11186" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37385" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="ac01e03a-2967-413a-81c0-1dbedb7e9ead" CreationDate="2019-04-17T13:20:52.083" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed grammar" Text="Does anyone know a USB disk that's considerably fast and capacitive but it doesn't get very hot?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I own a SanDisk Ultraflair 3.0 and even without moving anything it gets hot. For example, when I was moving an approximately 10&amp;nbsp;GB file, I couldn't even touch it for a minute, so I obviously can't run any OS. My OTG 2.0 USB is too slow. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Appreciate any help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37386" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="ac01e03a-2967-413a-81c0-1dbedb7e9ead" CreationDate="2019-04-17T13:20:52.083" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 11177 edit id of 843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10943" RevisionGUID="b7f69e1b-1c1f-40e7-90ee-bcc1f94d1014" CreationDate="2019-04-17T17:10:33.003" UserDisplayName="user10608" Text="It's not a switch, but you might be able to get what you're looking for by putting a device like the [Gefen HDMI Detective Plus][1] between your video source and your existing &quot;dumb&quot; switch. It &quot;records&quot; the EDID data of your video display when it's connected, and continues to send that data to the video source even if the video display isn't connected. Per [the manual][2], &quot;When the HDMI Detective Plus is used in local mode, HPD (Hot-Plug Detect) is always high,&quot; which I believe means that the video source thinks it is always connected to a display. It supports full 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've only used it for connecting my computer to my living room TV, which helped with problems that Windows would reset its resolution whenever the TV was switched off or on. I'm not sure it would completely solve the problem you're trying to solve, but it, or a device like it (which always acted like it was a display to your video source), might be another option rather than finding an HDMI switch that has that functionality built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gefen.com/product/hdmi-detective-plus-EXT-HD-EDIDPN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://resources.corebrands.com/products/EXT-HD-EDIDPN/pdf_EXT-HD-EDIDPN_Manual.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37388" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10944" RevisionGUID="7d6cb85b-4739-41b9-b07a-c9e1886a0171" CreationDate="2019-04-17T17:23:14.797" UserId="9688" Text="I use SSDs in all of my computers, laptops and desktops. SSDs are more reliable than HDDs and use less power, which can be important in a laptop. They are also *extremely* faster. However, HDDs are cheaper and can come in larger capacities. If you don't mind spending a bit extra for a large boost in speed and don't need a large amount of space go with an SSD. You can find them up to 4 TB but 1 TB ones will run between $150 and $100 dollars. If you need upward of 1 TB and don't want to spend $300 to $600 for a 3 to 4 TB SSD, go with an HDD, or possibly use a 500 or 250 GB SSD for your OS and a secondary HDD for storage, assuming your laptop has two slots." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37403" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="d36dc974-9fb3-4f17-a28e-ab2049d0d00d" CreationDate="2019-04-18T11:01:05.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10947" RevisionGUID="039a0868-a9ba-42e6-bb8e-e7eb910700ca" CreationDate="2019-04-18T11:56:20.653" UserId="11103" Text="I want to put my jetson tx2 dev kit on the drone but i don't know how to supply the jetson using drone's battery. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think i need a dc/dc regulator (converter) cause the jetson require at most 19.6V, drone's battery delivers 22V. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which converter could do the trick? My fear regards the consumption of the jetson dev kit (about 25W, not sure cause I read online) and the ampere needed to power up the TX2. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37405" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10947" RevisionGUID="039a0868-a9ba-42e6-bb8e-e7eb910700ca" CreationDate="2019-04-18T11:56:20.653" UserId="11103" Text="How to supply jetson tx2 with dji matrice 100 battery?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37406" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10947" RevisionGUID="039a0868-a9ba-42e6-bb8e-e7eb910700ca" CreationDate="2019-04-18T11:56:20.653" UserId="11103" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;drone&gt;&lt;battery&gt;&lt;power-converter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10951" RevisionGUID="1b4cb48e-293d-4542-93d3-a6ddc94adf9f" CreationDate="2019-04-18T17:16:48.857" UserId="540" Text="Unfortunately, there seems to be a lack of higher-bandwidth SATA controllers. The closest I can find are PCIe 2.0 x2, which is available on some StarTech cards. They are based on the Marvell 88SE9220/88SE9230/88SE9235 controllers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the lack of SATA options, the next best avenue is a SAS HBA, which supports SATA drives when the appropriate cable is used. Here, there are a great many options. [This reddit comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/44f87k/the_new_homelabbers_guide_to_buying_used_gear_or/czqc93y/) ([archived](http://archive.is/sia9V)) is a useful introduction to SAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, while some low-lane SAS HBAs exist (seems to be mostly under the RocketRAID brand, with questionable reviews), the majority are at least x8. Luckily, these cards are electrically compatible with fewer lanes, and the physical fit can be solved in one of several ways:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Some motherboards have physical x16 slots with x4 (or fewer) electrical connections. The card should just work in one of these. Other boards have open-ended slots for this purpose.&#xD;&#xA;* It's possible to modify either the slot or board to fit longer cards/in shorter slots. This usually involves a file or power tools.&#xD;&#xA;* PCIe riser cards can be used to *relocate* the slot to a different position in the case while also adapting a slot to a physically longer one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LSI (now Avago, now Broadcom) seems to be the easiest option, especially if second-hand is acceptable, as these are often decommissioned from servers. There is a [list](https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/lsi-raid-controller-and-hba-complete-listing-plus-oem-models.599/) of various models, along with a [spreadsheet](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kxRsT4mHqFlY25SD14XXrT7elCTYRNxc6DeCsNpYB8A/edit?usp=sharing) and [glossary](https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/lsi-raid-controller-and-hba-complete-listing-plus-oem-models.599/page-8#post-220148).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the specific purpose of a card that supports PCIe 3.0, the following options are suitable (non-RAID options picked for simplicity and price):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* SAS2308 controller, 6Gbps SAS/SATA, PCIe 3.0 supporting x8, **x4 or x1**&#xD;&#xA;    * LSI (Avago) SAS 9207-8i card&#xD;&#xA;    * IBM N2115 card&#xD;&#xA;    * HP H220 card&#xD;&#xA;* SAS3008 controller, 12Gbps SAS/6Gbps SATA, PCIe 3.0 supporting x8, **x4, x2 or x1**&#xD;&#xA;    * LSI (Avago) SAS 9300-8i card&#xD;&#xA;    * IBM N2215 card&#xD;&#xA;    * IBM M1215 (RAID) card&#xD;&#xA;    * Dell PERC H330 card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These cards can then be coupled with a **SFF-8643** (*not* the older SFF-8087) to SATA cable, and can connect up to 8 drives without expanders.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the SAS2308 controller apparently does not support x2 and will probably drop to x1 mode when given a x2 slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The non-LSI-branded cards (especially the IBM ones) can sometimes be flashed with LSI non-RAID (&quot;IT mode&quot;) firmware for simplicity; there are many guides available for doing so." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10952" RevisionGUID="5543a42e-80b1-44a2-8ab7-b9913efd8433" CreationDate="2019-04-18T17:32:23.023" UserId="1171" Text="I have a collection of many username / password combinations which I have to type frequently. If it's on my own computer, I will open my password app and paste it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if it's on a computer I don't own and can't install any software, I need to have a safe, airtight way of transferring this information, but still have it be straightforward and universal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be ideal for me is some sort of bluetooth USB device that emulates a keyboard, I'd pair it with my phone and use it to input passwords - to the computer it would look like a regular keyboard is being used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a thing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37419" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10952" RevisionGUID="5543a42e-80b1-44a2-8ab7-b9913efd8433" CreationDate="2019-04-18T17:32:23.023" UserId="1171" Text="A &quot;keyboard emulator&quot; to input passwords from my phone into a computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37420" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10952" RevisionGUID="5543a42e-80b1-44a2-8ab7-b9913efd8433" CreationDate="2019-04-18T17:32:23.023" UserId="1171" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="2759dc93-8a59-45b2-8289-f9995ab87ed7" CreationDate="2019-04-18T19:35:12.123" UserId="4495" Comment="broken link fixed" Text="Which is a good Mac laptop for development: the MacBook Pro MD101HN/A or the MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A. In 2017, is it worth buying a MacBook Pro(MD101HN/A)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Pro MD101HN/A (Late 2012 Model) is upgradeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MacBook Air MMGF2HN/A, released in 2016 has 8GB Ram, but its processor is 1.6 GHz, does that make the machine slow?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest if any other Mac is good for development, the budget is the constraint (80K INR).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here I found the processor comparison][1], which suggests `1.6 GHz i5 Air` is better when compared to `2.5GHz i5 Pro` Model. Please have a look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i5-5250U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-3210M" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37434" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7485" RevisionGUID="2759dc93-8a59-45b2-8289-f9995ab87ed7" CreationDate="2019-04-18T19:35:12.123" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 9526 edit id of 844" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10954" RevisionGUID="ed5d2471-cfb6-4835-9059-39641d832565" CreationDate="2019-04-19T04:26:17.783" UserId="531" Text="While I've not used it personally, and its not BT based, the [mooltipass][1] is a standalone device designed for this very task. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It'll store passwords (selectable through a scrollwheel, and shown on a screen), and input it via usb. Its *really* secure (using a smartcard for extra security), reasonably idiotproof though I have no idea how it scales to lots of passwords&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.themooltipass.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10956" RevisionGUID="1802875a-ecf7-4fb3-8e22-edd68ec60267" CreationDate="2019-04-19T08:41:05.090" UserId="11203" Text="I have the same MB as you P5G41T-M LX with a X5460 porcessor (overclocked from 3.16GHz to 4.0Ghz), 8 Gigs of DDR3 (1333 Mhz) Ram and a GTX1070. All I can say is now I can play some modern games since I swith from the Q8400 to de X5460, games like The Shadow of The Tomb Raider, The Call of Cathulhu, GTA V... The difference is enormous." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37444" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="8263" RevisionGUID="2f0c53a5-28e2-4b80-a6b4-a91ccc64554a" CreationDate="2019-04-19T14:44:33.173" UserId="9526" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[9583],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:531,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Journeyman Geek&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="37455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10959" RevisionGUID="e531c271-e2fa-4817-829a-249a231ee017" CreationDate="2019-04-20T01:33:13.120" UserId="11206" Text="I have a DVR writing video surveillance data to SATA hard drive. I want to be able to readonly that hard drive with another computer connected to it simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a piece of hardware that would allow that? For example, a man-in-the-middle SATA controller looking transparent to the DVR but also allowing to connect another computer readonly?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10959" RevisionGUID="e531c271-e2fa-4817-829a-249a231ee017" CreationDate="2019-04-20T01:33:13.120" UserId="11206" Text="Connect one SATA hard drive to two devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10959" RevisionGUID="e531c271-e2fa-4817-829a-249a231ee017" CreationDate="2019-04-20T01:33:13.120" UserId="11206" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;dvr&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37465" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="a1791b46-cc73-4240-abe5-49baf0dd3dd7" CreationDate="2019-04-20T04:04:55.790" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37493" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="277325e2-f05a-4b33-a510-aee591041ebb" CreationDate="2019-04-21T11:02:20.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37494" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10966" RevisionGUID="a37695be-aa64-4699-9543-2a9d099394f6" CreationDate="2019-04-21T19:53:12.507" UserId="11045" Text="Logitech K400 is great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried some other fancy keyboards first but this simple Logitech one works best and has best range too. Good example how cheaper could be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also small size with mousepad. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also does not cost much if kids/pets destroy it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10967" RevisionGUID="842a9004-06c1-4f16-8d05-cbba4597f804" CreationDate="2019-04-21T22:54:18.437" UserId="11218" Text="I’m about to have a laptop computer and I’m trying to decide the best way to switch my peripherals from it to my desktop computer and back. The plan is to have the desktop as a gaming station with Windows and to use my laptop to work with Linux, being able to switch all my stuff eg.: monitors, keyboard, mouse, headphone etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a poorly made draw of what the setup may look like:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there’s KVM switches, but none of them seems to be with HDMI or practical enough to meet those requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it’s worth to mention, the laptop is a Lenovo Thinkpad Carbon X1 6th gen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I’m using two monitors, one of them in vertical. I’m planning to use this vertical one as a fix monitor to the laptop, but I would like to be able to change it later if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hHfm.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10967" RevisionGUID="842a9004-06c1-4f16-8d05-cbba4597f804" CreationDate="2019-04-21T22:54:18.437" UserId="11218" Text="How to switch peripherals from desktop and notebook?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37497" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10967" RevisionGUID="842a9004-06c1-4f16-8d05-cbba4597f804" CreationDate="2019-04-21T22:54:18.437" UserId="11218" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37510" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="de50a1be-9342-4822-ac49-22ef894de35e" CreationDate="2019-04-22T10:01:25.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37514" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10971" RevisionGUID="a26e896e-e38a-492c-859b-094540d9a3ea" CreationDate="2019-04-22T14:35:34.657" UserId="11224" Text="Check the specs of your current motherboard and if it has dual channel memory then buy 2 x 8gb (or even 2 x 16gb) identical sticks for it and discard the 4gb ones. Still cheaper than buying a new board and new memory. Check the Gigabyte website for compatible memory for this board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10974" RevisionGUID="4623601b-1b02-4f48-ac87-474c27d66819" CreationDate="2019-04-22T15:41:42.697" UserDisplayName="user11226" Text="I am looking for a Wi-Fi router, in the 100-200 $ price range, with the following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - all ports are — Gigabit Ethernet&#xD;&#xA; - guest Wi-Fi network option (in addition to home Wi-Fi network)&#xD;&#xA; - it is really important that the router would work stably, without reboots&#xD;&#xA; - I am looking for most durable (i.e. work without repair and/or maintenance) option, in said price range&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37522" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10974" RevisionGUID="4623601b-1b02-4f48-ac87-474c27d66819" CreationDate="2019-04-22T15:41:42.697" UserDisplayName="user11226" Text="The most durable Wi-Fi router under 200$" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37523" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10974" RevisionGUID="4623601b-1b02-4f48-ac87-474c27d66819" CreationDate="2019-04-22T15:41:42.697" UserDisplayName="user11226" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;durability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1350" RevisionGUID="5b97a9b0-141d-4384-9c5b-bacff10761e9" CreationDate="2019-04-22T20:54:01.577" UserId="4495" Comment="broken link fixed" Text="The AMD R9 390 is slightly cheaper than the GTX 970 (£185), and offers similar or better performance in comparison to the Nvidia card you were showing. As a owner of this card myself, I am very pleased with it. Just keep in mind that if your Power Supply is not over 600 watts, you should choose an Nvidia GTX 970, as they use less power. Figuring the wattage of your PSU is easy, just take a look at the side of the unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A link to a relatively cheap R9 390 is [here - this][1] card has a slightly different cooler than the one I got for mine, but has the same overall design. It costs £185.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A link to a cheaper GTX 970 is [here -][2] again, this card is slightly less powerful but uses less power. After putting it in your cart, it should cost £192.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125792&amp;cm_re=r9_390-_-14-125-792-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088&amp;cm_re=gtx_970-_-14-487-088-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37531" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1350" RevisionGUID="5b97a9b0-141d-4384-9c5b-bacff10761e9" CreationDate="2019-04-22T20:54:01.577" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 164 edit id of 849" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10978" RevisionGUID="f8c15adf-937a-41e5-b22a-08e9b46aaa04" CreationDate="2019-04-23T01:52:47.880" UserId="11229" Text="I am looking for Raspberry PI 3 alternative board which would give me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. USB 3.0 port. Single is enough.&#xD;&#xA;2. Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;3. Casing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Orange PI 3 is perfect for my needs except that company does not or no longer produces casing. But casing is very important for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice me any alternative board. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37537" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10978" RevisionGUID="f8c15adf-937a-41e5-b22a-08e9b46aaa04" CreationDate="2019-04-23T01:52:47.880" UserId="11229" Text="Rasperry Pi alternative with USB 3.0, Ethernet port, and casing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37538" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10978" RevisionGUID="f8c15adf-937a-41e5-b22a-08e9b46aaa04" CreationDate="2019-04-23T01:52:47.880" UserId="11229" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37539" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10978" RevisionGUID="f2e46467-0d2c-4f3f-9b8e-c2346f97b389" CreationDate="2019-04-23T02:10:45.723" UserId="11229" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="I am looking for Raspberry PI 3 alternative board which would give me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. USB 3.0 port. Single is enough.&#xD;&#xA;2. Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;3. Casing. (Built-in / bought separately)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Orange PI 3 is perfect for my needs except that company does not or no longer produces casing. But casing is very important for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice me any alternative board. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10980" RevisionGUID="c3a4c7a6-1a75-44a4-8727-f91b5ba7165d" CreationDate="2019-04-23T08:28:23.890" UserId="11144" Text="Well I looked around the web, and I found these options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pine64&lt;/h1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The [Rock64][1] or the [RockPro64][2] are good options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for today, these are the only ones with USB 3.0 from Pine64.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Odroid&lt;/H1&gt;&#xD;&#xA;You could also choose to buy a Odroid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend checking the [wikipedia page][3] seeing what model suits the best your needs. You can find without any problem a case on amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pine64.org/?page_id=7147&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.pine64.org/?page_id=61454&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ODROID#Specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10984" RevisionGUID="eec85f52-e363-4f21-b5f9-55e30c33784f" CreationDate="2019-04-23T17:07:37.533" UserId="11114" Text="Finally I bought Be Quiet! Dark Rock 4. I can't compare with the other ones but it is what I was looking for. I barely hear it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37563" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="d471764b-4283-411f-af01-6c9a4e17522e" CreationDate="2019-04-24T02:01:20.947" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37567" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="8fb60918-7377-490b-a133-d4ba6b21d707" CreationDate="2019-04-24T03:02:25.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10990" RevisionGUID="81dfe438-6dbb-460f-9a3e-30c8d7e093fe" CreationDate="2019-04-24T14:04:27.113" UserId="12243" Text="## Logitech G305 Lightspeed Wireless Gaming Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Logitech G305](https://www.logitechg.com/en-roeu/products/gaming-mice/g305-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse.html) (sometimes referred to as G304) is an excellent performer. It comes with the top tier HERO optical sensor providing precise tracking. It is wireless which allows for greater freedom of movement. The mouse shares features with Logitech's more high-end models. It is a no-hassle mouse with great capabilities, which often receive great scores in reviews [(The Wirecutter, 2019)](https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wireless-gaming-mouse/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The mouse is also reasonably priced, and can usually be found within $40-50.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;* 1 ms low latency wireless.&#xD;&#xA;* Six buttons.&#xD;&#xA;* 250 hours battery life (swappable AA batteries).&#xD;&#xA;* 200-12000 DPI.&#xD;&#xA;* 125 / 250 / 500 / 1000 polling rate [HZ].&#xD;&#xA;* Budget-friendly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KYIF.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10991" RevisionGUID="c96c5773-b2d0-4848-9b23-6648a0e0ecda" CreationDate="2019-04-24T14:42:34.537" UserId="12246" Text="I'm looking for a non-mechanical programmable keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Not* mechanical i.e. I want a membrane or rubber dome keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;- Fully programmable. I really like how the Pok3r lets you program layers separately and it's easy to switch between layers. I'm looking for something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Tenkeyless or 60% layout.&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit, preferably white but RGB is OK if the color can be adjusted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So... any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37582" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10991" RevisionGUID="c96c5773-b2d0-4848-9b23-6648a0e0ecda" CreationDate="2019-04-24T14:42:34.537" UserId="12246" Text="Programmable non-mechanical keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37583" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10991" RevisionGUID="c96c5773-b2d0-4848-9b23-6648a0e0ecda" CreationDate="2019-04-24T14:42:34.537" UserId="12246" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37584" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="a2877aca-172b-49bd-b5ae-32a6f28ae6b8" CreationDate="2019-04-24T15:03:05.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37585" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="10992" RevisionGUID="13c53167-a11e-4bcf-a665-1cd2005a8e60" CreationDate="2019-04-24T16:59:53.907" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://superuser.com/questions/1429191/programmatically-moving-a-usb-port-between-devices" />
  <row Id="37586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10992" RevisionGUID="6cd75aa5-641c-46f2-b01c-60c8349c7be7" CreationDate="2019-04-24T16:57:26.883" UserDisplayName="Brydon Gibson" Text="I have two devices that share data, the only common data access method they have is through a DOS formatted flash drive. When I'm at the office, I can easily plug into device A, add files, unmount, then plug into device B and extract files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, when I'm not physically there with the device, there's no way to remotely do this (device does not have a network connection, so I can't use FTP/SCP or NAS). The first thing that comes to mind is a USB hub that I can physically switch between connection to device A and device B. I can connect this to the network and send it a packet telling it to switch connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist? I don't want to have to go about designing one, but I feel like that may be my only option at this point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10992" RevisionGUID="6cd75aa5-641c-46f2-b01c-60c8349c7be7" CreationDate="2019-04-24T16:57:26.883" UserDisplayName="Brydon Gibson" Text="Programmatically moving a USB port between devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10992" RevisionGUID="6cd75aa5-641c-46f2-b01c-60c8349c7be7" CreationDate="2019-04-24T16:57:26.883" UserDisplayName="Brydon Gibson" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37589" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="d987e0df-8794-435f-b6ab-d8dfce0251ea" CreationDate="2019-04-24T18:02:30.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37593" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="ed6f626b-7b7a-4ab7-9fc5-2e687938eb1b" CreationDate="2019-04-24T21:01:50.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10994" RevisionGUID="d30b975a-f325-40c8-af6e-c230b567535e" CreationDate="2019-04-24T21:17:08.663" UserId="10476" Text="I have two possible DC (double capacity) memory for a z390 Hero XI with 9900k (at 4.8-5.1GHz); with the context of having 128GB in Windows 10 x64.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Timings are a bit different, and price difference is significantly different, even though for an intensive/professional usage, it's not this important but it can be worth a good 2TB NVMe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a programmer and few of the projects are definitely memory bound (size, latency, and bandwidth of RAM) if not CPU front-end bound or NVMe memory bound (latency and bandwidth).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any specific recommendation regarding timings related to memory operations (which ones ?) and other CPU front-end bound operations/programs ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**64gtzdcb**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://geizhals.de/g-skill-trident-z-rgb-dc-dimm-kit-64gb-f4-3200c14d-64gtzdcb-a2034886.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CAS Latency CL 	14 (entspricht ~8.75ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Row-to-Column Delay tRCD 	15 (entspricht ~9.38ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Row Precharge Time tRP 	15 (entspricht ~9.38ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Active-to-Precharge Time tRAS 	35 (entspricht ~21.88ns)&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**64gtzdc**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://geizhals.de/g-skill-trident-z-rgb-dc-dimm-kit-64gb-f4-3200c14d-64gtzdc-a2034975.html?t=alle&amp;plz=&amp;va=b&amp;vl=de&amp;hloc=at&amp;hloc=de&amp;hloc=uk&amp;v=e&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CAS Latency CL 	14 (entspricht ~8.75ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Row-to-Column Delay tRCD 	14 (entspricht ~8.75ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Row Precharge Time tRP 	14 (entspricht ~8.75ns)&#xD;&#xA;    Active-to-Precharge Time tRAS 	34 (entspricht ~21.25ns)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37595" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10994" RevisionGUID="d30b975a-f325-40c8-af6e-c230b567535e" CreationDate="2019-04-24T21:17:08.663" UserId="10476" Text="DDR4 memory DC recommendation to go with Intel 9900k on Hero XI z390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37596" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10994" RevisionGUID="d30b975a-f325-40c8-af6e-c230b567535e" CreationDate="2019-04-24T21:17:08.663" UserId="10476" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37597" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10991" RevisionGUID="aefdd245-c877-4ef0-a64e-b9fbc51e1a35" CreationDate="2019-04-24T21:45:29.810" UserId="12246" Comment="Addressed possible duplicate question." Text="I'm looking for a non-mechanical programmable keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Not* mechanical i.e. I want a membrane or rubber dome keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;- Fully programmable. I really like how the Pok3r lets you program layers separately and it's easy to switch between layers. I'm looking for something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Tenkeyless or 60% layout.&#xD;&#xA;- Backlit, preferably white but RGB is OK if the color can be adjusted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So... any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**: I did take a look at [this question][1], but I'm looking for a fully-programmable board, that is, (nearly) every key should be programmable, not just a few.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/416/cheap-keyboard-with-programmable-keys-and-backlit-keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37598" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="7b444f3c-f682-4319-b844-358596e2c9a8" CreationDate="2019-04-25T01:01:35.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="10997" RevisionGUID="b77593fd-26be-4ab4-b175-6c70df5d3135" CreationDate="2019-04-25T07:07:57.367" UserId="12253" Text="I want to design a 220v AC to 5v DC power supply for arduino uno , I don't want to use transformer ,is it possible to do so if yes then how?&#xD;&#xA;Please suggest me the values of the components to be used." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37612" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="10997" RevisionGUID="b77593fd-26be-4ab4-b175-6c70df5d3135" CreationDate="2019-04-25T07:07:57.367" UserId="12253" Text="5v DC power supply design" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37613" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="10997" RevisionGUID="b77593fd-26be-4ab4-b175-6c70df5d3135" CreationDate="2019-04-25T07:07:57.367" UserId="12253" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37629" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="8cafa718-d4bd-484f-99b9-b394ab08d064" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:42:47.540" UserId="6079" Text="I have a Mini-ITX build, where the mobo only has one PCIe slot, but the case has two PCI brackets. I need to use the PCIe for extra SATA ports, but I would like one or more extra ethernet ports too. The mobo does have internal USB3 onboard connectors and there are USB-Ethernet adapters, but I haven't found any internal ones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to be clear, what I would like, is a PCI bracket with 1-4 GbE ports, that connects directly to internal USB connector. Does this exist? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37630" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="8cafa718-d4bd-484f-99b9-b394ab08d064" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:42:47.540" UserId="6079" Text="Internal USB to external ethernet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37631" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="8cafa718-d4bd-484f-99b9-b394ab08d064" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:42:47.540" UserId="6079" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37632" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="2ec2ceb9-5587-4629-9399-86e57e85715e" CreationDate="2019-04-25T19:03:20.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11008" RevisionGUID="af0221df-d9c4-4b97-8e82-752b139a650e" CreationDate="2019-04-26T09:00:31.877" UserId="1873" Text="Answering your note on designing one: there are ICs such as the [FSUSB42][1]&#xA;which are controlled with a GPIO. Add any Linux board such as Raspberry Pi and done. Also - if you are using USB Full Speed don't bother too much with impedance, it's only 12 Mbit.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=FSUSB42" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11010" RevisionGUID="bfcc2dfa-8762-4558-af3a-35a37333256b" CreationDate="2019-04-26T13:17:16.347" UserId="5979" Text="Users who use wifi of the netrwork shouldn't be able to connect to the internet via Tor Onion Browser, for that reason I am looking for a hardware based firewall (entry-level).&#xD;&#xA;So far I found the FortiGate series of FortiNet and the Sophos XG line. Can someone recommend one of these or are there others?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37656" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11010" RevisionGUID="bfcc2dfa-8762-4558-af3a-35a37333256b" CreationDate="2019-04-26T13:17:16.347" UserId="5979" Text="Best entry-level firewall hardware to block Tor Browser" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37657" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11010" RevisionGUID="bfcc2dfa-8762-4558-af3a-35a37333256b" CreationDate="2019-04-26T13:17:16.347" UserId="5979" Text="&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37658" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11010" RevisionGUID="69412635-74d5-435c-9094-dd26d9e31719" CreationDate="2019-04-26T13:37:03.923" UserId="5979" Comment="edited title" Text="Best firewall to block Tor Browser: FortiGate or Sophos XG?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37662" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11012" RevisionGUID="720c035b-d0ea-4ab5-8936-a18c9fc9d244" CreationDate="2019-04-26T14:20:35.743" UserId="12266" Text="I'm a student,badly need some information about a good sensor to use for measuring the alcohol content of a wine during the aging phase. Your answers will be a great help in my future.Thank you. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37663" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11012" RevisionGUID="720c035b-d0ea-4ab5-8936-a18c9fc9d244" CreationDate="2019-04-26T14:20:35.743" UserId="12266" Text="What sensor to use in measuring the alcohol content for wine aging" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37664" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11012" RevisionGUID="720c035b-d0ea-4ab5-8936-a18c9fc9d244" CreationDate="2019-04-26T14:20:35.743" UserId="12266" Text="&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37665" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10992" RevisionGUID="372e133d-6cea-4220-8a6d-33e0119e5850" CreationDate="2019-04-26T14:25:33.840" UserId="12267" Comment="added 362 characters in body" Text="I have two devices that share data, the only common data access method they have is through a DOS formatted flash drive. When I'm at the office, I can easily plug into device A, add files, unmount, then plug into device B and extract files.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, when I'm not physically there with the device, there's no way to remotely do this (device does not have a network connection, so I can't use FTP/SCP or NAS). The first thing that comes to mind is a USB hub that I can physically switch between connection to device A and device B. I can connect this to the network and send it a packet telling it to switch connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist? I don't want to have to go about designing one, but I feel like that may be my only option at this point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit: clarification.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Device A and device B must both access files on a USB mass storage device (DOS formatted flash drive). What I do in the office is copy data from device A to flash drive, umount, unplug and plug flash drive into device B, then access files. I'm looking for a way to remotely do the unplug from device A and plug into device B step." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37669" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="32f834cf-5f24-4741-9228-c6148b486545" CreationDate="2019-04-26T17:01:25.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37673" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="10959" RevisionGUID="1975881a-1dc0-481e-9f8b-c2a3d0a39c43" CreationDate="2019-04-27T00:05:14.580" UserId="11206" Comment="85" />
  <row Id="37674" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="7ee97aab-ba9f-4e56-b470-66d54ebd6637" CreationDate="2019-04-27T15:02:35.507" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37675" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="64ad84ce-21f5-41e9-a832-bc9c3c8f6ef2" CreationDate="2019-04-27T16:01:35.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11016" RevisionGUID="7302a26f-f03e-47c7-ac7b-4405be557c57" CreationDate="2019-04-27T18:07:38.123" UserId="12272" Text="I have a Note 5, and it is good - but it is also definitely half broken.  I need a *new* phone, and I was hoping you all might have ideas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I am looking for a phone that preferably *has:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. a stylus&#xD;&#xA;2. rectangular screen&#xD;&#xA;3. 3.5mm audio out&#xD;&#xA;4. at least 32GB storage&#xD;&#xA;5. large screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and *doesn't* have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. curved or beveled or otherwise *not flat* screen&#xD;&#xA;2. software buttons&#xD;&#xA;3. iOS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Waterproofing is a bonus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I half suspect the answer to this question is &quot;get another Note 5&quot;, although the ones I have found at this point are all refurbished and I'm not quite sure I trust them, but I thought I'd ask." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37681" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11016" RevisionGUID="7302a26f-f03e-47c7-ac7b-4405be557c57" CreationDate="2019-04-27T18:07:38.123" UserId="12272" Text="What currently-manufactured (2019) phone is most similar in form and function to a Samsung Galaxy Note 5?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37682" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11016" RevisionGUID="7302a26f-f03e-47c7-ac7b-4405be557c57" CreationDate="2019-04-27T18:07:38.123" UserId="12272" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37684" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="0f233cde-b6ba-4319-b4bd-34dc62181801" CreationDate="2019-04-27T19:03:25.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37687" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="e93ff31b-4602-46e4-9fcd-d6f4e7179f60" CreationDate="2019-04-28T02:01:25.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37696" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9023" RevisionGUID="d35c57ac-67db-4e25-b736-047426a1f5da" CreationDate="2019-04-28T03:03:30.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37701" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11018" RevisionGUID="57db2e47-34b2-4ee2-817e-0f122bcc6359" CreationDate="2019-04-28T08:11:54.730" UserId="12273" Text="My brother is getting a new laptop and wants to get into coding. I just need to know the specs of the type of system needed to just run code, as in stuff like the processor, RAM and anything like that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37702" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11018" RevisionGUID="57db2e47-34b2-4ee2-817e-0f122bcc6359" CreationDate="2019-04-28T08:11:54.730" UserId="12273" Text="What are the requirements of a new computer to run code?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37703" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11018" RevisionGUID="57db2e47-34b2-4ee2-817e-0f122bcc6359" CreationDate="2019-04-28T08:11:54.730" UserId="12273" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37710" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="67e7b8b7-9b9d-45dc-8485-add0acdf5008" CreationDate="2019-04-29T01:02:40.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37714" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="092abd0e-a1a8-480b-9dbe-faabc1ceb1bd" CreationDate="2019-04-29T07:01:00.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37715" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11021" RevisionGUID="31ba68b9-ea69-462f-9a4b-7d096c4c38c7" CreationDate="2019-04-29T07:34:58.400" UserId="11144" Text="If he is just getting into coding, any computer will do. At the beginning, the tasks are very simple for the computer and you wouldn't see a difference between an intel celeron or a xeon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once he gets to an advanced state, I would consider a more powerfull computer, but not before." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37717" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="28a3ada1-bcc3-42b4-997c-7675c437d1df" CreationDate="2019-04-29T09:01:15.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11023" RevisionGUID="198f077d-6e94-466c-a70c-7df2b07f6189" CreationDate="2019-04-29T11:35:52.753" UserId="12280" Text="I am looking to buy a projector that updates its display in a raster scan fashion. I was told by someone that this (https://www.sony.com/electronics/projector/mp-cl1a) projector does it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is how do I identify projectors which work in this fashion? Which specification gives me information about the same? A few examples of models of would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37719" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11023" RevisionGUID="198f077d-6e94-466c-a70c-7df2b07f6189" CreationDate="2019-04-29T11:35:52.753" UserId="12280" Text="Projectors which update their display output in raster fashion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37720" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11023" RevisionGUID="198f077d-6e94-466c-a70c-7df2b07f6189" CreationDate="2019-04-29T11:35:52.753" UserId="12280" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11024" RevisionGUID="77946e98-f40f-4116-bf44-b150b3a85c5e" CreationDate="2019-04-29T20:44:56.220" UserId="12284" Text="So I want to create a fast Deep Learning Machine with Nvidia's RTX 2060 but I'm divided between AMD's Ryzen 2600X and Intel's Intel Core i5-9600K. Now I know that there is a big gap in the price, but I wanted to know a few more opinions because I saw what Lambda Lab offers and I got cold feet just before I placed my last two orders(CPU and MOBO).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mainly want to use it for Image Recognition with Neural Networks, I don't want to do NLP (at least for now). So I believe here that performance is key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, in case you ask, here is the build I was going for (without the case):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. CPU: AMD ​Ryzen 5 2600X Box&#xD;&#xA; 2. SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250GB&#xD;&#xA; 3. GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 6GB Mini ITX OC&#xD;&#xA; 4. RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4-3000MHz&#xD;&#xA; 5. PSU: Seasonic M12II-620 Evo&#xD;&#xA; 6. MOBO: Asrock B450 Pro4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what do you think? Should I go for Intel or AMD for Deep Learning?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S because I'm new to Pc Building, feel free to point out whether or not this is a post for the Data Science subdomain, of Stackexchange, or not." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37722" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11024" RevisionGUID="77946e98-f40f-4116-bf44-b150b3a85c5e" CreationDate="2019-04-29T20:44:56.220" UserId="12284" Text="Building a Budget Deep Learning Machine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37723" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11024" RevisionGUID="77946e98-f40f-4116-bf44-b150b3a85c5e" CreationDate="2019-04-29T20:44:56.220" UserId="12284" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11026" RevisionGUID="05fd83c0-9206-4e64-b357-c5c78a4af754" CreationDate="2019-04-30T06:15:11.997" UserId="12287" Text="I have heard that ARM processors can switch between little-endian and big-endian. What do processors need this for? Is it used on Android phones?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37732" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11026" RevisionGUID="05fd83c0-9206-4e64-b357-c5c78a4af754" CreationDate="2019-04-30T06:15:11.997" UserId="12287" Text="switching endianness on ARM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37733" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11026" RevisionGUID="05fd83c0-9206-4e64-b357-c5c78a4af754" CreationDate="2019-04-30T06:15:11.997" UserId="12287" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37756" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="4759fe13-e2c4-48d5-a196-833b1d77122b" CreationDate="2019-05-01T07:01:45.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37758" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="1afea0c7-24ab-418f-b458-d2b220afc866" CreationDate="2019-05-01T13:02:45.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37765" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="aeca204a-eb6a-44ce-9106-7fad4ae2f4f0" CreationDate="2019-05-01T16:01:25.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37769" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="271e8275-36de-47af-87da-b703323cf0f0" CreationDate="2019-05-02T01:31:10.873" UserId="12297" Text="I want to get a new desktop computer. I don't plan on using it play games. It is mostly to do work at home (running python code for analysis, looking through sometimes large excel files, having music play in the background).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through my research, I found that it is probably most economical to buy an out of the box desktop (instead of buying a custom one or building my own).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of specs, I followed the advice from [this article][1] and it seems like having at least 8gb of RAM would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up narrowing my choice to [two models from Acer][2] that seem good. Basically the two options I am deciding between are (the processor and other specs are identical):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) 512GB SSD with 8GB RAM - Costs 650&#xD;&#xA;(2) 2TB HDD with 12GB RAM - Costs 550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my research, I say quite a few articles saying that SSD are faster than HDD, but I am having trouble deciding which spec to go with (or if you know of a better deal to accomplish my goal).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-much-ram&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/compare/DT.BAPAA.012-DT.BAPAA.004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37770" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="271e8275-36de-47af-87da-b703323cf0f0" CreationDate="2019-05-02T01:31:10.873" UserId="12297" Text="Which desktop computer should I choose (smaller SSD storage with lower RAM vs higher HDD storage with higher RAM)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37771" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="271e8275-36de-47af-87da-b703323cf0f0" CreationDate="2019-05-02T01:31:10.873" UserId="12297" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37772" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="56fa9857-117b-4bfb-b811-68c203e6bd9b" CreationDate="2019-05-02T01:56:19.900" UserId="12297" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I want to get a new desktop computer. I don't plan on using it play games. It is mostly to do work at home (running python code for analysis, looking through sometimes large excel files, having music play in the background).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through my research, I found that it is probably most economical to buy an out of the box desktop (instead of buying a custom one or building my own).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of specs, I followed the advice from [this article][1] and it seems like having at least 8gb of RAM would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up narrowing my choice to [two models from Acer][2] that seem good. Basically the two options I am deciding between are (the processor and other specs are identical):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) 512GB SSD with 8GB RAM - Costs 650&#xD;&#xA;(2) 2TB HDD with 12GB RAM - Costs 550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my research, I say quite a few articles saying that SSD are faster than HDD, but I am having trouble deciding which spec to go with (or if you know of a better deal to accomplish my goal). Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-much-ram&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/compare/DT.BAPAA.012-DT.BAPAA.004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37773" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="6577be26-5bf2-44b9-abcf-7f9376fc1a1f" CreationDate="2019-05-02T02:03:10.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11036" RevisionGUID="7948ff13-80fd-4eb7-8c9c-4510ec5c82ba" CreationDate="2019-05-02T02:22:46.790" UserId="275" Text="While I would echo what A.Barth says about 'any computer will do', I would just caution that you don't want a completely crap computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You don't need a super powerful machine, or a good GPU etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, as programming does require a quick feedback loop, it's incredibly tedious if you're having to wait a couple of seconds for things to run etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said - I'm a professional web developer, and I was able to get by fine with a second hand laptop that I bought for about $US500 a couple of years ago. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a minimum I would suggest that the computer has a SSD, at least four cores,  at least 8GB RAM, preferably 16, and if they're running Windows, use Windows 10. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are plenty of second hand (Look at ex-commercial) laptops you can get for around $US500 that fit this. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37775" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11037" RevisionGUID="c243505a-cfb0-4012-9cff-06c1da55cf22" CreationDate="2019-05-02T02:27:27.570" UserId="275" Text="I'm going to make a left-field suggestion, and suggest a **Bluetooth Keyboard** and  **your phone**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem I've found, with laptops are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap, lightweight laptops are crap, not even worth having. &#xD;&#xA;- Decent, lightweight laptops are expensive. &#xD;&#xA;- Cheap, decent laptops are heavy and a hassle to carry around. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A bluetooth keyboard, and the google documents apps on the otherhand, is cheap ($&lt;100), light, and gets the job done. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the key thing with choosing a keyboard is: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does the keyboard suit your hands. (If you have large hands like me, you might want a bigger keyboard). &#xD;&#xA;- The keyboard should support propping up your phone. &#xD;&#xA;- Some keyboards are actually quite heavy, so keep that in mind. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37776" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="88e999b4-d4f6-40dc-bcfe-9984af1a5822" CreationDate="2019-05-02T03:03:15.547" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37781" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11039" RevisionGUID="43e25cc8-c996-41b2-971a-0641fa3a9891" CreationDate="2019-05-02T12:34:25.493" UserDisplayName="user11226" Text="Probably, the question would get more attention and answer(s), if it was posted on [networkengineering][1] or [serverfault][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Primary options, I came up with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [MikroTik hAP ac²][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - pros:&#xD;&#xA;     - possibilities of what can be achieved with proper setup are, virtually, limitless (though, there is a downside — see cons)&#xD;&#xA;     - 4 ethernet ports (+ 1 &quot;WAN&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - cons:&#xD;&#xA;     - difficulty of setting up: all the options you would want for a home use (like setting password for the Wi-Fi and setting up guest Wi-Fi network) are not obvious to do and **require reading** of manuals or [MikroTik wiki][4]. &#xD;&#xA; 2. [Xiaomi Mi WiFi Router 3G][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - pros:&#xD;&#xA;     - **PRICE** (you could get it from China for ~35-40$)&#xD;&#xA;     -  custom firmware (with English interface) is available&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - cons:&#xD;&#xA;     - only 2 ethernet ports (+ 1 &quot;WAN&quot;)&#xD;&#xA;     - stock firmware is in chinese&#xD;&#xA;     - flash of custom firmware is tricky&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other options to consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. [SNR-CPE-ME1][6]&#xD;&#xA; 4. [ASUS RT-AC68U][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://networkengineering.stackexchange.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://serverfault.com&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Main_Page&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.router-reset.com/reset-manuals/Xiaomi/MiWiFi-3G&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.router-reset.com/reset-manuals/NAG/SNR-CPE-ME1&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC68U/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="40623970-0d67-4389-b80b-6cd43507bf5c" CreationDate="2019-05-02T13:20:33.940" UserId="12297" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I want to get a new desktop computer. I don't plan on using it play games. It is mostly to do work at home (running python code for analysis, looking through sometimes large excel files, having music play in the background).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through my research, I found that it is probably most economical to buy an out of the box desktop (instead of buying a custom one or building my own)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of specs, I followed the advice from [this article][1] and it seems like having at least 8gb of RAM would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up narrowing my choice to [two models from Acer][2] that seem good. Basically the two options I am deciding between are (the processor and other specs are identical):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) 512GB SSD with 8GB RAM - Costs 650&#xD;&#xA;(2) 2TB HDD with 12GB RAM - Costs 550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my research, I say quite a few articles saying that SSD are faster than HDD, but I am having trouble deciding which spec to go with (or if you know of a better deal to accomplish my goal). Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-much-ram&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/compare/DT.BAPAA.012-DT.BAPAA.004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11040" RevisionGUID="32e39e6e-a9ab-4cf9-90e1-47a62eec6077" CreationDate="2019-05-02T15:24:33.330" UserId="12309" Text="me and some colleauges want to use cluster-computing to do fast deep learning inference. We thought about using OpenVINO by intel as to do so. However, OpenVINO requires 6th to 8th generation Intel Core or Intel Xeon processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our processors are:&#xD;&#xA;Intel Xeon Gold 6130&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it correct that the second digit is the generation? I thought the Xeon Gold 6130 was released in Q3 2017, so I am surprised how it can be 1st generation...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37784" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11040" RevisionGUID="32e39e6e-a9ab-4cf9-90e1-47a62eec6077" CreationDate="2019-05-02T15:24:33.330" UserId="12309" Text="How to find out the generation of my Intel Xeon Gold 6130 processor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37785" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11040" RevisionGUID="32e39e6e-a9ab-4cf9-90e1-47a62eec6077" CreationDate="2019-05-02T15:24:33.330" UserId="12309" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cluster-computing&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11035" RevisionGUID="07aeaa27-9b37-48a2-984e-8b8837d7d14c" CreationDate="2019-05-02T16:55:20.310" UserId="12297" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I want to get a new desktop computer. I don't plan on using it play games. It is mostly to do work at home (running python code for analysis, looking through sometimes large excel files, having music play in the background).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through my research, I found that it is probably most economical to buy an out of the box desktop (instead of buying a custom one or building my own)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of specs, I followed the advice from [this article][1] and it seems like having at least 8gb of RAM would be ideal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up narrowing my choice to [two models from Acer][2] that seem good. Basically the two options I am deciding between are (the processor and other specs are identical):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) 512GB SSD with 8GB RAM - Costs 650&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) 2TB HDD with 12GB RAM - Costs 550&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my research, I say quite a few articles saying that SSD are faster than HDD, but I am having trouble deciding which spec to go with (or if you know of a better deal to accomplish my goal). Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-much-ram&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/compare/DT.BAPAA.012-DT.BAPAA.004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37791" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9272" RevisionGUID="d55509b3-3b1f-44ae-8ddf-ef8cbc0468e8" CreationDate="2019-05-02T19:38:14.360" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag earphones" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37792" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9272" RevisionGUID="d55509b3-3b1f-44ae-8ddf-ef8cbc0468e8" CreationDate="2019-05-02T19:38:14.360" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 848" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37793" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="45d7622f-a8c0-4048-b5cf-5d424801dcf2" CreationDate="2019-05-02T19:39:13.630" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag programmable since macro buttons was wanted" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37794" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="200" RevisionGUID="45d7622f-a8c0-4048-b5cf-5d424801dcf2" CreationDate="2019-05-02T19:39:13.630" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 851" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37798" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="2a42e180-aae0-4f44-9ce7-4a3b877ec2ed" CreationDate="2019-05-02T21:03:15.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11044" RevisionGUID="9aada79a-90f5-4fc4-a07f-de3cd04b320a" CreationDate="2019-05-03T07:36:28.697" UserId="11144" Text="**Intel Processor naming**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Desktop and Mobile processors, the first digit after the brand modifier is the generation, as explained [here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Desktop processor naming][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Server and Workstation, it is the second digit that counts, as said [here][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**OpenVINO requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What Intel says [on their webpage][5] the requirements are is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 6th to 8th generation Intel® Core™ and Intel® Xeon® processors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means, you car use Intel Core processor, but it has to be from the 6th to 8th generation, or you could use any Xeon processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your CPU is good to go.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/processor-numbers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxt6n.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/processor-numbers-data-center.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KmWU7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://software.intel.com/en-us/openvino-toolkit/documentation/system-requirements" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37820" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11049" RevisionGUID="67c49328-5cce-4adf-91b4-8b6a43f7876c" CreationDate="2019-05-03T17:28:22.337" UserId="6079" Text="This is not solved, but I'm adding an answer so I can add improvements until I or someone else finds something better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This could technically be a way to solve my problem: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Use one of these to get two internal usb3 female-a connectors.  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-3-0-Internal-Motherboard-Header-20pin-Dual-USB-3-0-Female-Adapter-/122758653067?ef_id=CjwKCAjwza_mBRBTEiwASDWVvlNmVgHM8V6lsjsSxoHBOTA4ysxAeifgddkzoD_Azq61ObTPngDN0BoC_bIQAvD_BwE:G:s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Connect two of these 1xUSB3-&gt;2xEthernet to the two new usb female ports: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Dual-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00D8XTOD0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Get four ethernet extension cables, connect the male side to the double-dual-ethernet adapters, glue their female ends together on a PCI bracket and finally install that in the empty space in the chassis. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see no reason why that wouldn't work, but it's … suboptimal. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="035eb268-0c49-4ec3-acdf-d11cb92875a4" CreationDate="2019-05-04T14:06:00.313" UserId="12322" Text="I have a television with an audio jack, which I used in order to connect to my wireless headphones (through a connecting base sold with the headphones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the audio jack is now damaged, and I would like to understand how I can use wireless headphones without it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The television does not have Bluetooth connectivity, but it has RCA and optical cable connections available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a solution where the audio goes through the RCA/optical cable permanently, without having to plug in the cables every time I need to use the headphones to the television. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps a soundbar or a surround sound system, which is then able to connect to a wireless headphone, even if it implies buying both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to spend not more than 150$, if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have any suggestion? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37840" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="035eb268-0c49-4ec3-acdf-d11cb92875a4" CreationDate="2019-05-04T14:06:00.313" UserId="12322" Text="TV with broken audio jack how to connect wireless headphones?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37841" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="035eb268-0c49-4ec3-acdf-d11cb92875a4" CreationDate="2019-05-04T14:06:00.313" UserId="12322" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37846" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="0753b5e2-e3d8-4a4b-b681-76ee2f1cbc35" CreationDate="2019-05-04T23:02:05.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37847" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="10959" RevisionGUID="81fec7bf-f0d7-4806-904c-286b653932dd" CreationDate="2019-05-05T02:01:50.480" UserId="-1" Comment="85" />
  <row Id="37851" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="179bb282-f323-4e24-8fb7-455d479c0911" CreationDate="2019-05-06T02:00:47.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37852" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11055" RevisionGUID="2292694b-cd70-473d-a448-b0d741d6659a" CreationDate="2019-05-06T02:48:07.367" UserId="12329" Text="I'm planning on upgrading my old home computer and wanted advice on what should be best. Current specs below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i5-3330&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050-Ti&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 500GB&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: A81A 2808-1333 04CB 6GB&#xD;&#xA; - Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H61M-DS2H&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware is not cheap in my country (South America) so my aim is to spent max $300. The objective is just to be able to run current gen games and softwares with average/high settings at 1080p/60fps.&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the attention in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37853" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11055" RevisionGUID="2292694b-cd70-473d-a448-b0d741d6659a" CreationDate="2019-05-06T02:48:07.367" UserId="12329" Text="Upgrading budget computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37854" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11055" RevisionGUID="2292694b-cd70-473d-a448-b0d741d6659a" CreationDate="2019-05-06T02:48:07.367" UserId="12329" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37855" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="3a41f925-8733-48c2-9e65-1ff17ecb7666" CreationDate="2019-05-06T03:02:19.823" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11056" RevisionGUID="f3b51d9e-e803-472d-9db1-6b98242c51fb" CreationDate="2019-05-06T06:30:43.613" UserId="12330" Text="I’m an app developer and I’m developing using Xcode and android studio. I have recently started developing with ionic and generally I like exploring many programming languages, frameworks etc. This is basically a hobby but sometimes (for example, now) I’m doing projects for companies. Also, I’ll probably need to install windows (parallels) to work with visual studio on a final project for my computer science class. Right now, I have a Mac mini (16 gb ram and 1tb ssd). But I want something a bit more portable. I’m thinking of buying MacBook Pro 15”. I’m reaching out to you because I’ve seen many of your tutorials and I trust your opinion and experience. I would love to get recommendations whether I should get an upgrade for 1tb storage/32gb ram or perhaps 512gb storage and 16gb ram is enough. Other ideas are welcomed, of course. I’m asking that because if I don’t need those upgrades, (obviously) it’ll save money and I kinda need that (I’m collecting my money from previous jobs of developing and hope to get the rest of the amount from future jobs so I can return it to my parents) not a problem, but if possible than why not‍♂️&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for answers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37857" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11056" RevisionGUID="f3b51d9e-e803-472d-9db1-6b98242c51fb" CreationDate="2019-05-06T06:30:43.613" UserId="12330" Text="What computer should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37858" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11056" RevisionGUID="f3b51d9e-e803-472d-9db1-6b98242c51fb" CreationDate="2019-05-06T06:30:43.613" UserId="12330" Text="&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37867" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11059" RevisionGUID="5849df5e-06bf-484c-b726-86ed904f1740" CreationDate="2019-05-06T10:13:30.800" UserId="12333" Text="I need a mouse at work&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - not more expensive than 50 €, better around 30 € or less&#xD;&#xA; - wireless, preferable with dongle (and optional additional Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA; - suitable for palm grip*&#xD;&#xA; - best would be 5 buttons + wheel or more (left/right, 2 thumb buttons, mousewheel with button)&#xD;&#xA; - fully compatible with ubuntu, including dpi- and button configuration and, if applicable, Lighting&#xD;&#xA; - at least up to 2000 dpi, preferable configurable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*For example, I like the size and weight of the SoundblasterX Siege M04 (135,6 mm length, 135 g). The Logitech M705 is too small. I don't know other models specifically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommened a mouse for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37868" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11059" RevisionGUID="5849df5e-06bf-484c-b726-86ed904f1740" CreationDate="2019-05-06T10:13:30.800" UserId="12333" Text="Wireless mouse, compatible to Ubuntu 18.04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37869" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11059" RevisionGUID="5849df5e-06bf-484c-b726-86ed904f1740" CreationDate="2019-05-06T10:13:30.800" UserId="12333" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11060" RevisionGUID="ccfeee65-b702-4f43-8c2e-3c7102df12dd" CreationDate="2019-05-06T12:25:24.593" UserId="10878" Text="I bought a battery from an e-commerce site with about 30 reviews from previous buyers, but I am worried if it might explode because it may not be the original battery provided by ASUS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just bought it a while ago, but then I suddenly saw a FB post of someone at school who placed their laptops in their bed, charging, then it blew up (luckily he wasn't even using it or near it when it did). If my laptop blew up while I was using it, my hand/finger would fly off and my face might get scarred given the magnitude of the explosion. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wli9i.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpHZl.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9emLs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTT9V.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37871" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11060" RevisionGUID="ccfeee65-b702-4f43-8c2e-3c7102df12dd" CreationDate="2019-05-06T12:25:24.593" UserId="10878" Text="Where to find a reliable laptop battery replacement for ASUS K42N Series?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37872" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11060" RevisionGUID="ccfeee65-b702-4f43-8c2e-3c7102df12dd" CreationDate="2019-05-06T12:25:24.593" UserId="10878" Text="&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11056" RevisionGUID="4b591ce3-31c8-4e13-9c36-c4b188ceb037" CreationDate="2019-05-06T16:49:08.673" UserId="12330" Comment="deleted 98 characters in body" Text="I’m an app developer and I’m developing using Xcode and android studio. And I have recently started developing with ionic and generally I like exploring many programming languages, frameworks etc.&#xA;This is basically a hobby but sometimes (for example, now) I’m doing projects for companies.&#xA;Also, I’ll probably need to install windows (parallels) to work with visual studio on a final project for my computer science class. &#xA;&#xA;Right now, I have a Mac mini (16 gb ram and 1tb ssd). But I want something a bit more portable. I’m thinking of buying MacBook Pro 15”. &#xA;I would love to get recommendations whether I should get an upgrade for 1tb storage/32gb ram or perhaps 512gb storage and 16gb ram is enough. Other ideas are welcomed, of course.&#xA;&#xA;I’m asking that because if I don’t need those upgrades, (obviously) it’ll save money and I kinda need that (I’m collecting my money from previous jobs of developing and hope to get the rest of the amount from future jobs so I can return it to my parents) not a problem, but if possible than why not‍♂️&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for answers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37877" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="de2ec887-13c3-41b4-83ec-725a94b6cd4f" CreationDate="2019-05-06T17:03:40.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="62eed4e7-eb83-4413-90dd-73080451f5f4" CreationDate="2019-05-06T17:35:00.373" UserId="12338" Text="I am currently building a new PC so I'm looking to give away my previous self build from 2011'ish to the kids. What I was wondering is would a modern graphics card, say something like a GTX 1660Ti be suitable for a GPU upgrade. I see from the spec that it still supports PCIe v3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the old CPU &amp; Memory bottleneck the GTX 1660Ti significantly? If I decide to refresh the custom look would a decent overclock help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU : Core i7-2700L&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard : Asus Rampage Gene IV (PCIe 3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory : 16GB DDR3 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU : GTX 580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage : SSD &amp; HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU : Corsair HX1050&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom Water cooling loop (CPU &amp; GPU) - Needs some work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37879" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="62eed4e7-eb83-4413-90dd-73080451f5f4" CreationDate="2019-05-06T17:35:00.373" UserId="12338" Text="Recommendation a GPU upgrade for old computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37880" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="62eed4e7-eb83-4413-90dd-73080451f5f4" CreationDate="2019-05-06T17:35:00.373" UserId="12338" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37884" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="77fd3f08-1501-461e-a081-4df21979dc83" CreationDate="2019-05-06T19:03:55.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37886" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="f4e1e3d1-5316-4e30-bd46-3190e27c92f6" CreationDate="2019-05-06T22:00:37.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37887" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9717" RevisionGUID="336dba2d-ed43-44da-b1da-e5f3cf397306" CreationDate="2019-05-06T23:02:40.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37890" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="ab870715-8638-49d5-b67a-71233f589aba" CreationDate="2019-05-07T03:02:03.787" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37891" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="006fa91d-f21f-4e6a-88dc-94092fc53d3e" CreationDate="2019-05-07T05:03:30.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37892" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="e72aa317-9499-438c-b4e5-8f06d8f71a0e" CreationDate="2019-05-07T10:01:55.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11066" RevisionGUID="fdc47a96-b979-45e9-a904-f99dc0ea5407" CreationDate="2019-05-07T13:27:47.347" UserId="12343" Text="The ARM *architecture* does support endianess switching in principle, but to my knowledge no modern ARM *implementation* does support it any more. And surely no android phone are using it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11049" RevisionGUID="fd8c82c6-b770-4e77-8eb5-e2c3567e9725" CreationDate="2019-05-07T14:39:35.360" UserId="6079" Comment="added 229 characters in body" Text="This is not solved, but I'm adding an answer so I can add improvements until I or someone else finds something better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This could technically be a way to solve my problem: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Use one of these to get two internal usb3 female-a connectors.  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-3-0-Internal-Motherboard-Header-20pin-Dual-USB-3-0-Female-Adapter-/122758653067?ef_id=CjwKCAjwza_mBRBTEiwASDWVvlNmVgHM8V6lsjsSxoHBOTA4ysxAeifgddkzoD_Azq61ObTPngDN0BoC_bIQAvD_BwE:G:s&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Connect two of these 1xUSB3-&gt;2xEthernet to the two new usb female ports: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Dual-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00D8XTOD0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Get four ethernet extension cables, connect the male side to the double-dual-ethernet adapters, glue their female ends together on a PCI bracket and finally install that in the empty space in the chassis. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see no reason why that wouldn't work, but it's … suboptimal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 1: I guess I can try to find a PCIe riser with two outputs, if riser-in-riser is ok. Something like this would be ok: https://www.wiredzone.com/supermicro-components-motherboards-accessories-rsc-r2ug-2e4e8-10022062&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11067" RevisionGUID="cc9f19f7-5996-4698-b295-2519b8e4d85d" CreationDate="2019-05-07T14:43:46.160" UserId="12346" Text="I'm looking to buy a new phone and I'm in need of an advice. I want something smaller and I have found a 4.6inch Android smartphone which is great for me (Sony Xperia XZ1 Compact). It is all around a good phone but it has a screen resolution of only 1280x720 pixels. For me that's perfectly okay, I even like it because that means better battery life since it has to render much less pixels. But what I'm afraid of is that the app or web developers would stop supporting smaller resolutions like this one in near future and I would be left behind with my decent but low-res phone. Because of the low resolution I'm also considering a Sony Xperia XZ1 (not the Compact one) which has 1920x1080 screen resolution but it is a much bigger phone which I really don't like and would like to avoid (on the other hand it's much cheaper only 250 eur vs 350 eur for the Compact, but price is not the priority in this case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And also this is my first Android smartphone (I have Lumia 820 and before that I had Lumia 800) so I don't know how it works in the Play Store with the support of so many different phones. (For example does the developer defines a specific devices which are supported and anyone with a different device isn't be able to install the app? Or is there a minimum supported resolution defined for each app and phones with a lower resolutions aren't able to install the app?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for the answers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11067" RevisionGUID="cc9f19f7-5996-4698-b295-2519b8e4d85d" CreationDate="2019-05-07T14:43:46.160" UserId="12346" Text="Is it safe/wise to buy a smartphone with 1280x720 resolution display in 2019?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11067" RevisionGUID="cc9f19f7-5996-4698-b295-2519b8e4d85d" CreationDate="2019-05-07T14:43:46.160" UserId="12346" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11069" RevisionGUID="87859d42-51d0-4620-8620-200f39931959" CreationDate="2019-05-07T18:56:03.167" UserId="12350" Text="I have the following PC configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Processor: i3-6100&#xD;&#xA; - MB: Asus Maximus Ranger VIII&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: HyperX Kingston Technology Fury Black 8 GB 2133 MHz CL14 DIMM DDR4 Internal Memory (HX421C14FB2/8)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish to add another RAM module.&#xD;&#xA;E.g: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2133MHz C13 Memory Red Kit for Systems&#xD;&#xA;Or: Corsair 8GB Kit (1x 8GB) 2133 MHz CL15 288-Pin DIMM DDR4 RAM Memory (CMV8GX4M1A2133C15)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish to know if they would work well together?&#xD;&#xA;Can I mix manufacturers?&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone done it and it's ok?&#xD;&#xA;AFAIK params are identical so it should work...." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37911" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11069" RevisionGUID="87859d42-51d0-4620-8620-200f39931959" CreationDate="2019-05-07T18:56:03.167" UserId="12350" Text="Mixing RAM modules from different manufacturers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37912" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11069" RevisionGUID="87859d42-51d0-4620-8620-200f39931959" CreationDate="2019-05-07T18:56:03.167" UserId="12350" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37916" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="49502c32-4193-4390-9452-f146e37a05c5" CreationDate="2019-05-07T19:16:48.350" UserId="12338" Comment="edited body" Text="I am currently building a new PC so I'm looking to give away my previous self build from 2011'ish to the kids. What I was wondering is would a modern graphics card, say something like a GTX 1660Ti be suitable for a GPU upgrade. I see from the spec that it still supports PCIe v3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the old CPU &amp; Memory bottleneck the GTX 1660Ti significantly? If I decide to refresh the custom look would a decent overclock help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU : Core i7-2700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard : Asus Rampage Gene IV (PCIe 3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory : 16GB DDR3 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU : GTX 580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage : SSD &amp; HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU : Corsair HX1050&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Custom Water cooling loop (CPU &amp; GPU) - Needs some work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37917" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="49502c32-4193-4390-9452-f146e37a05c5" CreationDate="2019-05-07T19:16:48.350" UserId="12338" Comment="edited body" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11072" RevisionGUID="c64dde5b-de87-48f8-9bb1-ea97ef6bc27c" CreationDate="2019-05-07T22:21:51.807" UserId="12353" Text="recent member and new as well, but reading about the GTX 1660 Ti, it looks to pretty compatible with most new motherboards, the GTX 1660 Ti uses a single PCIe 3.0 slot at x8 or x16 depending on your system (the longer slots if you're wondering). You can Use AMD and Intel so the difference is not noticeable. I am building a new system and look forward to sharing more information" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37924" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10038" RevisionGUID="c802f1bc-3c41-401b-b0bd-53c97085dee2" CreationDate="2019-05-08T00:03:45.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37925" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4397" RevisionGUID="7626f5db-096f-4307-8fe4-b39fb4d9e3ff" CreationDate="2019-05-08T00:27:51.907" UserId="4495" Comment="broken link fixed" Text="I've been searching, from what I can find, it's nearly impossible to get a pre-built computer for under $800 with a video card with 4GB of VRAM. All of the other specifications are easy to achieve for less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it consoles you, the difference between 2GB and 4GB of VRAM in low end cards is negligible to nonexistent. Therefore, the pre-built computer I recommend to you contains a 2GB GT 730.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell Inspiron 3650 - [US][1] - [UK][2]&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Price:** $619.99 USA, £439 UK&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** [i5-6400][3], 2.7Ghz base, 3.3Ghz turbo.&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** [GT 730][4], 2GB VRAM&#xD;&#xA;- **Disk:** Generic 1TB 7200RPM HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** Generic 1x8GB DDR3L-1600Mhz&#xD;&#xA;- **WiFi:** 802.11 b/g/n&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;**&lt;sup&gt;Dell Inspiron 3650&lt;/sup&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Stuff&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were thinking - &quot;oh the high end graphics cards have 4GB of VRAM, so 4GB of VRAM automatically classifies a GPU as good,&quot; you were completely and totally wrong. In fact, if you were to custom build a computer, a 2GB GTX 960 would be vastly superior to a 4GB GT 730, and the performance difference between the 4GB GT 730 and the 2GB GT 730 would be practically nonexistent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case you still doubt this, here is a link to a [3DMark Firestrike benchmark comparison][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both graphics cards have 2GB VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, clock speed also doesn't dictate performance. Intel has a vastly superior IPC (Instructions per cycle) than AMD, and therefore can provide incredibly higher levels of performance with a 2.7Ghz clock speed than AMD can with 3Ghz or even 4Ghz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Cinebench scores][7]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.7Ghz i5-6400, quad core: 521 &lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;3.5Ghz FX-6300, hexa core: 412&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see how clock speed, and even amount of cores bow down before IPC in the benchmark above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I think that this will have plenty of power, and I have proved that even if there were a way to make the GPU have more VRAM and the CPU more clock speed, it would not matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hopefully you take these benchmarks and tips into consideration when purchasing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this does not suit your needs, please notify me. If there is a particular reason you need exactly 3Ghz clock speed or 4GB VRAM, also please notify me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=ddclot216b&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.dell.com/uk/business/p/inspiron-3650-desktop/pd?oc=bd65010&amp;model_id=inspiron-3650-desktop&amp;l=en&amp;s=bsd&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://ark.intel.com/products/88185/Intel-Core-i5-6400-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gt-730/specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/3KSl6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/7694777/fs/8175910#&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://cbscores.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37926" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4397" RevisionGUID="7626f5db-096f-4307-8fe4-b39fb4d9e3ff" CreationDate="2019-05-08T00:27:51.907" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 852" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37927" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="cd31e923-3e1b-4f0d-b089-994631193dde" CreationDate="2019-05-08T04:06:51.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37943" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="b6458336-5709-48bd-8dd9-5de384e63e5f" CreationDate="2019-05-08T17:03:45.770" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="37947" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11079" RevisionGUID="509aa6a1-1f72-46f1-8d17-ff7e6f325c56" CreationDate="2019-05-08T19:57:34.620" UserId="1873" Text="Personally I am using an i5-4460 (similar to your 2700k in performance I believe) with a 6 GB GTX 1060 and have not noticed any issues playing Far Cry 5 (which is about the only recent AAA I played) or any other games on a 2560x1080 screen. The only game which forced me to fiddle with graphics settings was GTA V. I have been forced to enable FPS capping in Divinity: Original Sin 2 due to alt-tab issues.&#xA;&#xA;You *might* notice issues with a higher resolution display.&#xA;&#xA;The only time I noticed a real CPU bottleneck was when rendering 3D scenes using CUDA in Blender Cycles." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11080" RevisionGUID="634245fd-40a2-428b-8b6c-073fba9383d1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T20:01:21.913" UserId="1873" Text="Best would be to also use same CL - otherwise both will work with the lowest CL between them AFAIK. Apart from that - no, no issues, apart from it looking slightly worse ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37949" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11081" RevisionGUID="2cc2d8fc-47e9-4c01-bb86-fb4641b50767" CreationDate="2019-05-08T20:12:41.093" UserId="1873" Text="The device has around 319 PPI - it's good enough.&#xA;&#xA;Take the two paragraphs below with a grain of salt since I'm not a web or mobile developer - my colleagues are and this is what I managed to remember from talking to them.&#xA;&#xA;As for support in web apps - what websites use are not physical pixels but rather a &quot;standardized pixel&quot; which is size in pixels normalized to a standard PPI.&#xA;&#xA;For apps in Play Store - devices list API level (fancier Android version), possibly some hardware requirements (sensors?) and possibly resolution - but this would again be stated using those &quot;standardized pixels&quot;.&#xA;&#xA;Lastly: [gsmarena review](https://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_xz1_compact-8610.php) lists the XZ Compact's endurance rating as 108h which is a stellar result (typical results are in the 70-80 range)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37953" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11083" RevisionGUID="68a62fa5-cba1-4fb9-8cf0-4c0d06eee901" CreationDate="2019-05-08T23:15:19.763" UserId="47" Text="My parents need a new desktop PC, so I was just going to get them one from Dell or HP or some other company that sells prebuilt PCs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My parents' current desktop PC has two 5.25&quot; optical drives in it, and I was planning on taking those out and putting them into the new PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But looking around, I can't find any prebuilt PCs with 5.25&quot; drive bays.  I've only found prebuilt desktops with at most one thin slot on the case and a slim notebook style optical drive inside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone sell a prebuilt desktop PC with two 5.25&quot; drive bays, Windows 10, and a SSD hard drive for around $800 or less?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37954" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11083" RevisionGUID="68a62fa5-cba1-4fb9-8cf0-4c0d06eee901" CreationDate="2019-05-08T23:15:19.763" UserId="47" Text="Desktop PC with two 5.25&quot; drive bays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37955" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11083" RevisionGUID="68a62fa5-cba1-4fb9-8cf0-4c0d06eee901" CreationDate="2019-05-08T23:15:19.763" UserId="47" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37956" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11084" RevisionGUID="14188fc1-3730-45e5-9935-e5094e1538e6" CreationDate="2019-05-09T01:08:31.410" UserId="10311" Text="I personally use the [Avantree Audiokast][1] ($50) to connect my bluetooth headphones to my tv, and have been very happy with the functionality. I have mine connected via an optical cable currently. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MXFJGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_jZ30CbV793G8G" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="09ae3132-5eb4-4375-8d2d-7bc9abdf2df0" CreationDate="2019-05-09T11:23:27.360" UserId="12365" Text="I am new here and this my question regarding my graduation project.&#xD;&#xA;I want to **control the Arduino board from ESP32.**&#xD;&#xA;For example, a temperature sensor will be connected to the ESP32, when ESP32 read a certain temperature then will send information to the Arduino board. The Arduino board - connected to relay to switch the fan- will understand that is hot and turn the relay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thank you&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37961" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="09ae3132-5eb4-4375-8d2d-7bc9abdf2df0" CreationDate="2019-05-09T11:23:27.360" UserId="12365" Text="sending order from ESP32 to arduino mege" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37962" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="09ae3132-5eb4-4375-8d2d-7bc9abdf2df0" CreationDate="2019-05-09T11:23:27.360" UserId="12365" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37966" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10473" RevisionGUID="73f0c84d-7845-4f6e-a9fc-562baf1c921d" CreationDate="2019-05-09T13:24:15.107" UserId="9372" Comment="formatting" Text="To avoid a lack of updates for software bugs, let's require that the scales model is either (1) currently in production, (2) supported by a manufacturer's software for their whole range of models or (3) supported by a third-party, open source software that is ideally in current development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Within these requirements, I found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **[Beurer diagnostic bathroom scales][1]** with the orange &quot;beurer connect&quot; logo (14 models). These all work with the Beurer Health Manager app ([Android][2] / [iOS][3]), for which &quot;the full range of functions can be used locally without registering&quot; ([source][3]). In addition, the Beurer BF700 / 710 / 800 models are [supported by openScale][4], an open source app for smart scales.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    At least in 2014, these were the only off-the-shelf bathroom scales that do not require cloud storage ([source][5]), and so far I am not aware that this changed for the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. **[openScale supported scales][4].** This includes the Beurer BF700 / 710 / 800 models from above, 23 other commercial models, and [a generic hack][6] to transform any scales with LCD into a supported smart scales.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. **[Withings Body][7],** previously Nokia Body. This is a wifi connected scale talking unencrypted JSON, at least in the original model from 2010 to at least 2013. This hopefully still applies (but I can't yet confirm), and hopefully also applies to the Withings Body+ and Cardio models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    There are instructions [here][8] and [here][9] (including small applications) to modify it so it talks to your own server rather than the manufacturer's servers in the cloud. That own server could be for example a Raspberry Pi in your local home network, making the scales independent of an Internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    While the wifi connection is easier to work with than Bluetooth when developing your own software, the solution involves DNS bending which is a &quot;dirty hack&quot; that you might not like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.beurer.com/web/gb/products/wellbeing/weight-and-diagnosis/diagnostic-bathroom-scale/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beurer.connect.healthmanager&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://fnd.io/#/us/ios-universal-app/762342281&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Supported-scales-in-openScale&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Custom-Bluetooth-Scale#how-its-started-&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://github.com/oliexdev/openScale/wiki/Custom-Bluetooth-Scale&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.withings.com/uk/en/body&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://blog.chris007.de/hacking-the-withings-wifi-body-scale-2/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.prolixium.com/mynews?id=915" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37973" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11067" RevisionGUID="96130876-cab7-4e80-b0fb-910e43a16345" CreationDate="2019-05-09T18:41:34.083" UserId="12346" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to buy a new phone and I'm in need of an advice. I want something smaller and I have found a 4.6inch Android smartphone which is great for me (Sony Xperia XZ1 Compact). It is all around a good phone but it has a screen resolution of only 1280x720 pixels. For me that's perfectly okay, I even like it because that means better battery life since it has to render much less pixels. But what I'm afraid of is that app or web developers would stop supporting smaller resolutions like this one in near future and I would be left behind with my decent but low-res phone. Because of the low resolution I'm also considering a Sony Xperia XZ1 (not the Compact one) which has 1920x1080 screen resolution but it is a much bigger phone which I really don't like and would like to avoid (on the other hand it's much cheaper only 250 eur vs 350 eur for the Compact, but price is not the priority in this case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And also this is my first Android smartphone (I have Lumia 820 and before that I had Lumia 800) so I don't know how it works in the Play Store with the support of so many different phones. (For example does the developer define a specific devices which are supported and anyone with a different device isn't able to install the app? Or is there a minimum supported resolution defined for each app and phones with a lower resolutions aren't able to install the app?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for the answers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="4483d3b6-e7e0-4078-8197-5914f499c1a7" CreationDate="2019-05-09T18:42:32.820" UserId="12370" Text="I'm looking for a gaming computer that will render the sharpest 4K videos well, and I'm wondering how the reviews of how GPUs do with games relate to that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, do I need the same GPU power to play a lossless video as I needed when generating it in a game?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37975" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="4483d3b6-e7e0-4078-8197-5914f499c1a7" CreationDate="2019-05-09T18:42:32.820" UserId="12370" Text="GPU theory - games vs video rendering" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37976" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="4483d3b6-e7e0-4078-8197-5914f499c1a7" CreationDate="2019-05-09T18:42:32.820" UserId="12370" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="f786740a-e9b4-47ac-9def-b7fb162bfc6a" CreationDate="2019-05-09T22:44:49.987" UserId="5120" Text="I am looking to buy a new PC and the question is, weather a dedicated graphics card is useful or if the build-in will be enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I use is mostly Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop and Illustrator. Also MS Office and obviously Windows and a Browser (Firefox). Most of my other Applications are related to programming and are not able to use the GPU. I also run Linux VMs with VirtualBox. Except for the linux window manager, the applications within the VM do not use the GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the question is, how big is the impact of a dedicated graphics card for such applications?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other uses for the GPU (which I did not think of)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget for the graphics card would be in the 250 € / 300 USD range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to connect 2 monitors with an 2560 x 1440 resolution. I think any build-in GPU should be able to handle this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another thing is, that I want the PC to be very **silent**. How are current graphic cards when it comes to noise?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the PC will be a 6-8 Core-CPU, combined with 16-32 GB RAM and an M2 PCIe SSD. I have not decided yet on the exact CPU, especially since there are some without a graphics card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37981" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="f786740a-e9b4-47ac-9def-b7fb162bfc6a" CreationDate="2019-05-09T22:44:49.987" UserId="5120" Text="Stand-alone or build-in graphics card for Adobe products?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37982" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="f786740a-e9b4-47ac-9def-b7fb162bfc6a" CreationDate="2019-05-09T22:44:49.987" UserId="5120" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37986" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11094" RevisionGUID="df907b74-93c6-40ef-a5a2-b4f946c581ec" CreationDate="2019-05-09T23:41:04.500" UserId="1873" Text="Is your usage of Adobe products professional or hobbyist? If you are not using them professionally you would IMHO be better off spending that money on a better CPU. &#xA;&#xA;For hard data look at a [benchmark by Puget Systems](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Photoshop-CC-2019-AMD-Radeon-VII-16GB-Performance-1379/) - the integrated GPU in 9900k is not that much worse off than a high-end GPU in PS. I expect Illustrator to behave similarly.&#xA;&#xA;One question I was not able to find a satisfactory answer for is whether Lightroom benefits from GPU compute. And looking at your setup and other mentioned tasks developing a large amount of RAWs is your most computationally intensive task in terms of both graphics and things which can be GPU accelerated. And I know that both darktable and Capture One do use GPU acceleration. And it can (anecdotally) lead to speedups of one or two orders of magnitude.&#xA;&#xA;The UHD 630 should easily handle two 2k screens. If I'm wrong or just throw in an RX 550 if it fails to do so. nVidia has issues on Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37987" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11094" RevisionGUID="9e1f7950-d939-41da-8e8e-9b195242aa8f" CreationDate="2019-05-09T23:49:07.413" UserId="1873" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="TL;DR only developing RAW photos would really benefit from a good dGPU.&#xA;&#xA;Is your usage of Adobe products professional or hobbyist? If you are not using them professionally you would IMHO be better off spending that money on a better CPU. &#xA;&#xA;For hard data look at a [benchmark by Puget Systems](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Photoshop-CC-2019-AMD-Radeon-VII-16GB-Performance-1379/) - the integrated GPU in 9900k is not that much worse off than a high-end GPU in PS. I expect Illustrator to behave similarly.&#xA;&#xA;One question I was not able to find a satisfactory answer for is whether Lightroom benefits from GPU compute. And looking at your setup and other mentioned tasks developing a large amount of RAWs is your most computationally intensive task in terms of both graphics and things which can be GPU accelerated. And I know that both darktable and Capture One do use GPU acceleration. And it can (anecdotally) lead to speedups of one or two orders of magnitude.&#xA;&#xA;The UHD 630 should easily handle two 2k screens. If I'm wrong or just throw in an RX 550 if it fails to do so. nVidia has issues on Linux.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: RX 460 is more expensive but available with passive cooling." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37988" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="fc583e5f-1642-4aea-9905-f184c14c915c" CreationDate="2019-05-10T00:55:55.280" UserId="12374" Text="I have just purchase the HP Elitebook 8570w and disassemble it for cleaning. Unfortunately when I was trying to put it back I broke all three clips locking cables under gpu unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to look for exchange parts but I guess my English terminology lacks when it comes to hardware. So I am left with those questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How do you call this type of clip?&#xD;&#xA;- Is this some kind of universal part or will I am I on the mercy of the laptop manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One picture is worth a thousand words, so those are clips locking all three cables right bellow gpu unit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsDtQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37989" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="fc583e5f-1642-4aea-9905-f184c14c915c" CreationDate="2019-05-10T00:55:55.280" UserId="12374" Text="What is this connector locking clips and where to find it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37990" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="fc583e5f-1642-4aea-9905-f184c14c915c" CreationDate="2019-05-10T00:55:55.280" UserId="12374" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37991" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="95a56cf5-8381-4e40-81b3-7beb74faa786" CreationDate="2019-05-10T04:22:52.673" UserId="12374" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="I have just purchase the HP Elitebook 8570w and disassemble it for cleaning. Unfortunately when I was trying to put it back I broke all three clips locking cables under gpu unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to look for exchange parts but I guess my English terminology lacks when it comes to hardware. So I am left with those questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How do you call this type of clip?&#xD;&#xA;- Is this some kind of universal part or am I on the mercy of the laptop manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One picture is worth a thousand words, so those are clips locking all three cables right bellow gpu unit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsDtQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37992" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="07ea7f1c-143a-4a6d-a2d2-fbed5016cd29" CreationDate="2019-05-10T04:29:50.923" UserId="12374" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I have just purchase the HP Elitebook 8570w and disassemble it for cleaning. Unfortunately when I was trying to put it back I broke all three clips locking cables under gpu unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to look for exchange parts but I guess my English terminology lacks when it comes to hardware. So I am left with those questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How do you call this type of clip?&#xD;&#xA;- Is this some kind of universal part or am I on the mercy of the laptop manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One picture is worth a thousand words, so those are clips locking all three cables right bellow the gpu unit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsDtQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="bd60616b-da9a-4514-9d4d-b7660ff73241" CreationDate="2019-05-10T09:37:15.180" UserId="12380" Text="I conduct a focus group discussions. I would like to know the recorder name that records voice of each participants in a separate channel.So that i can analyse each participant separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently i get all the voice recorded in single channel and i cant separate them. So basically i would like to know who has said what.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the format should be eother FLAC or LINEAR16 while recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="bd60616b-da9a-4514-9d4d-b7660ff73241" CreationDate="2019-05-10T09:37:15.180" UserId="12380" Text="How can i record voice of each individual in a separate channel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="bd60616b-da9a-4514-9d4d-b7660ff73241" CreationDate="2019-05-10T09:37:15.180" UserId="12380" Text="&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="37999" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="c742637f-162e-4e4d-b7ed-c1ed00799514" CreationDate="2019-05-10T09:53:48.223" UserId="12380" Comment="edited body" Text="I conduct a focus group discussions. I would like to know the recorder name that records voice of each participants in a separate channel.So that i can analyse each participant separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently i get all the voice recorded in single channel and i cant separate them. So basically i would like to know who has said what.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the format should be either FLAC or LINEAR16 while recording.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="18fee388-d9c5-48b4-9209-91b75a8b6baa" CreationDate="2019-05-10T14:41:42.923" UserId="12370" Comment="Rewrote, added more details, made the question more specific" Text="I'm looking for a gaming computer that will render the sharpest 4K videos of outdoor scenes well, and I'm wondering how the reviews of how GPUs do with games relate to that. I've found the [Digital Storm Avon][1] (Best version), which looks very promising and reasonably priced, but all the reviews seem to be about using it to play games, while I want to render videos with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen cautions in the reviews of GPUs, including some very similar to the Avon's NVIDIA RTX 2070 Max-P 8GB, saying that while they can put simple games into 4K with a pretty high frame rate, they slow down for more complex games. That raises a question, is the taxing part of the complex games generally the rendering, or is it something earlier in the process, like generating the situation itself that then gets rendered, which is not part of videos?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To put it in a nutshell, 1) is the Avon good enough to render minimally compressed 4K videos of the outdoors with maybe 60 fps, 2) is it possible to get it delivered in less than a week, 3) if not, can you recommend something else, first good enough and second preferably less than $3K, and 4) as a cherry on top, is there some straightforward breakdown of processing games, which I could compare to rendering videos?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.digitalstorm.com/gaming-laptops.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11107" RevisionGUID="504a11b1-e0a7-4d4b-b931-110e1d59ed79" CreationDate="2019-05-12T05:46:51.743" UserId="47" Text="Acer has some [Veriton M][1] desktops that have two 5 1/4&quot; drive bays.  For example the [M4660G][2] model and [M6650G][3] model are both available with a 256 GB SSD drive for under $800.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also found the [Lenovo P520c][4] desktop that has two 5 1/4&quot; bays, although that is over $800.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/IN/content/professional-models/desktops/veritonm&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.provantage.com/acer-ud-p02aa-03s~7ACED13V.htm&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cdw.com/product/acer-veriton-m6650g-i5750s-mt-core-i5-7500-3.4-ghz-8-gb-256-gb/5469332&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/think-workstations/thinkstation-p-series-towers/ThinkStation-P520c/p/33TS3TP520C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11108" RevisionGUID="3d0eb35d-c704-4f87-8e6d-e71e34df7494" CreationDate="2019-05-12T07:36:05.470" UserId="12396" Text="From what you have asked, It looks quite straightforward to me so I am assuming that you are new to controllers. Apologies otherwise. What you need to do is:&#xD;&#xA;1- Serially connect both devices (I2C/SPI).&#xD;&#xA;2- Program ESP32 to send a command/message serially to Arduino to switch on/off the fan relay based on your temperature thresholds.&#xD;&#xA;3- Program the Arduino to switch the fan relay on/off according to the received message." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38033" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11109" RevisionGUID="28071913-7a42-409f-9b01-2dea28585cb0" CreationDate="2019-05-12T09:16:54.723" UserId="12396" Text="Please see the following link. You will have to find out the values for yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Single phase rectifier][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/power/single-phase-rectification.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38034" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="cdf866bf-a2d2-440f-bbd6-c03da0159327" CreationDate="2019-05-12T13:23:31.347" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed typos" Text="I am new here and this my question regarding my graduation project.&#xD;&#xA;I want to control the Arduino board from ESP32.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, a temperature sensor will be connected to the ESP32, when ESP32 read a certain temperature then will send information to the Arduino board. The Arduino board - connected to relay to switch the fan - will understand that is hot and turn the relay.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38035" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="cdf866bf-a2d2-440f-bbd6-c03da0159327" CreationDate="2019-05-12T13:23:31.347" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed typos" Text="Sending order from ESP32 to Arduino Mega" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38036" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="cdf866bf-a2d2-440f-bbd6-c03da0159327" CreationDate="2019-05-12T13:23:31.347" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 12365 edit id of 857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="04418c44-2b0a-4443-8472-94d16409b5c9" CreationDate="2019-05-12T18:29:07.363" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed SI units (Hz not hz and mega bits not milli bits)" Text="I have a Fujitsu P1620 ([CNET Review][1], 2008) that I want to add the [Broadcom Crystal HD][2] ([Amazon][3]) board to.  That means I have to re/move the mini PCIe Wi-Fi card.  The P1620 has a [PCMCIA][4] slot, so I've been looking into finding a flush Wi-Fi card where the antenna doesn't stick out.  The problem is, I can't seem to find one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a PCMCIA (aka CardBus) Wi-Fi adapter that meets the following criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Fits into a PCMCIA slot&#xD;&#xA; - 2.4 GHz b/g/n support&#xD;&#xA; - 150 Mbps&#xD;&#xA; - flush with the edge of the slot, or very close to it&#xD;&#xA; - Reasonably priced &lt;$25 incl shipping&#xD;&#xA; - Windows support/drivers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to haves**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 5 GHz support&#xD;&#xA; - 300 Mbps&#xD;&#xA; - Cheap&#xD;&#xA; - Well supported on Linux&#xD;&#xA; - Promiscuous mode&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Ubiquiti][5] on Amazon appears to fit the bill, but it's really expensive.  Which probably stems from its high end name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively a series of parts and adapters (PCMCIA, Expresscard, mini PCIe, etc) to fit into the slot would be fine.  The Wi-Fi antenna is still in the chassis (could be reused), or I could run a new one in the chassis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB PCMCIA + USB WiFi**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer to not use USB, but will do so as a last resort.  USB is supposedly heavy on the CPU and I don't know if I will have enough room/ports for a suitable USB adapter and card in the case.  If you think you can make it work, feel free to suggest that solution, but be detailed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were to do something like this, I would want to modify the card adapter so the USB Wi-Fi adapter sat further in, and potentially rig up some form of external antenna or connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edits/additions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This][6] would be a perfect form factor and antenna management system.  This particular card uses a different networking standard than is common today, so it won't work for my purposes.  This type of antennae seems popular for the cell cards, but I can't find any for Wi-Fi G or N.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A Wi-Fi version of [this][7] would be awesome.  Sadly, I was unable to locate one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I snagged a cheap Ubiquiti (listed above) on eBay, but I would still like to hear other solutions.  The Ubiquiti seems to be [supported by Linux,][8] but I will have to engineer a protector for the antennae connectors, but that won't be too bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.cnet.com/products/fujitsu-lifebook-p1620/#!&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadcom_Crystal_HD&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-BCM970015-Crystal-Decoder-AW-VD920H/dp/B00A66PCTM/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_card&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PCMCIA-Cardbus-WLAN-802-11a/dp/B004EHUVHW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458153957&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pcmcia%20wifi&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BreezeCom-Breezenet-PCMCIA-SA-PCR-Wireless-802-11-LAN-Card-New-/351252445527?hash=item51c846f957:g:46UAAOSwnDxUijx9&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hidden-Inside-USB-2-0-Bluetooth-Wireless-to-PCMCIA-PC-Card-CardBus-Adapter-/251666257311?hash=item3a987a559f:g:COIAAOSwRLZULqWx&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.backtrack-linux.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10338" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38038" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2304" RevisionGUID="04418c44-2b0a-4443-8472-94d16409b5c9" CreationDate="2019-05-12T18:29:07.363" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 711 edit id of 858" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38042" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="378" RevisionGUID="7de89340-9c2a-4b1f-8d0d-1910dad66f6f" CreationDate="2019-05-12T21:03:51.280" UserId="4495" Comment="broken link fixed" Text="As mentioned in the comments, some Android phones will come close, especially if you root/modify them afterwards.  There is an alternative that has not been mentioned, from the Mozilla organization: [Firefox OS][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have only used one of these phones briefly (for a couple of hours) personally, but I know others have used them successfully and enjoyed the open nature of the phone in particular.  There are a list of supported devices [on the Mozilla site][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of ethically manufactured and produced phones, I don't think you will have much luck with the current crop. I know of projects in the formation stage like [FairPhone][3] but I haven't seen anything in the wild yet.  I suspect that the people behind such an effort in terms of manufacturing and sourcing will give similar thought to the software that runs on the device, but the intersection of the two desires (fully open, fully ethical) is likely to be quite niche (for now).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox_OS&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://web.archive.org/web/20150915233625/https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/os/devices/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.fairphone.com/about/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38043" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="378" RevisionGUID="7de89340-9c2a-4b1f-8d0d-1910dad66f6f" CreationDate="2019-05-12T21:03:51.280" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 122 edit id of 859" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38048" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11023" RevisionGUID="a88eb3c0-da64-4b60-8e61-73f94c1e0aef" CreationDate="2019-05-13T06:13:02.800" UserId="48" Comment="Inlined the link" Text="I am looking to buy a projector that updates its display in a raster scan fashion. I was told by someone that this projector, [MP-CL1A mobile projector from Sony][1], does it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is how do I identify projectors which work in this fashion? Which specification gives me information about the same? A few examples of models of would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sony.com/electronics/projector/mp-cl1a" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38049" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11023" RevisionGUID="a88eb3c0-da64-4b60-8e61-73f94c1e0aef" CreationDate="2019-05-13T06:13:02.800" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 12280 edit id of 855" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38061" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11115" RevisionGUID="0885f0ab-2810-43fa-ac5a-978ed5a1c981" CreationDate="2019-05-13T14:37:12.777" UserId="12411" Text="I am looking for a cable, and I can't find it at all at any store.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The cable has : one pin going to the headset(on the right). The other two are the normal `Mic`(middle) and `Out` for audio(left) of a PC. And a microphone in the bottom of the picutre. &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cable][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;Do you know what this is called ?&#xD;&#xA;Or any suggestion for a workaround ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9WaO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38062" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11115" RevisionGUID="0885f0ab-2810-43fa-ac5a-978ed5a1c981" CreationDate="2019-05-13T14:37:12.777" UserId="12411" Text="Cable replacement - Headset to PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38063" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11115" RevisionGUID="0885f0ab-2810-43fa-ac5a-978ed5a1c981" CreationDate="2019-05-13T14:37:12.777" UserId="12411" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38065" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11116" RevisionGUID="7a335e55-161f-48ab-ba82-d48385dd979e" CreationDate="2019-05-13T18:31:39.833" UserId="1873" Text="If you are willing to wait - there is the [Purism Librem 5](https://puri.sm/products/librem-5/) which uses a CPU with fully available documentation, and a GNU/Linux distribution by the manufacturer (Debian-based). Current ETA is Q3 2019.&#xA;&#xA;The only snag you might hit (which is basically unavoidable AFAIK) is the modem firmware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11117" RevisionGUID="98dd0047-cfa2-4a5b-93ce-4ceba04d3cd6" CreationDate="2019-05-13T19:05:28.937" UserId="1873" Text="If you can't find such a cable you can replace it with two:&#xA;&#xA; - [mic-in-cable](https://www.amazon.com/BestGot-Headphones-Microphone-Controller-Stereos/dp/B0763HQK92)&#xA; - [splitter](https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC)&#xA;&#xA;Those products are just an example.&#xA;&#xA;As a bonus without the splitter you can use this as a headset with your mobile phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11118" RevisionGUID="c0d884f7-5955-491f-b380-6936408008fd" CreationDate="2019-05-13T22:39:28.993" UserId="12414" Text="Im looking for a solution to where I can utilize a gateway to manage 64+ SIM cards to receive US SMS Shortcodes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve not found equipment that specifically states it has this feature. And I’ve seen gateways and then an additional piece of equipment with antennas and I’m not sure if both are needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38068" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11118" RevisionGUID="c0d884f7-5955-491f-b380-6936408008fd" CreationDate="2019-05-13T22:39:28.993" UserId="12414" Text="Hardware Suggestion: SIM Card Gateway - Receive Shortcodes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38069" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11118" RevisionGUID="c0d884f7-5955-491f-b380-6936408008fd" CreationDate="2019-05-13T22:39:28.993" UserId="12414" Text="&lt;automation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11119" RevisionGUID="5f588561-6b31-4e82-9944-6897329e4891" CreationDate="2019-05-14T15:59:07.043" UserId="12417" Text="Looking to build an i9-9900X system. According to Intel, RAM should be DDR4-2666 (https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/processors/core/x-series/i9-9900x.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I never overclock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with the RAM vendors is, they do not advertise the real (SPD) frequency, which is much lower than the one advertised. For example, I could find RAM advertised to run at 3200, but according to the manufacturer specification, SPD frequency is as low as 2133.&#xD;&#xA;Instead, higher frequencies are stored in XMP profiles, but that's a cheat because it basically means overclocking (also, the voltage is higher than 1.2V)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So is there any RAM brand that really runs at 2666, by SPD?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest I could find is some Kingston memory that runs at 2400, so I'm thinking to go with it if I can't find a real one. It has a 2666 setting in one of the XMP profiles, and my reasoning is to overclock as little as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38073" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11119" RevisionGUID="5f588561-6b31-4e82-9944-6897329e4891" CreationDate="2019-05-14T15:59:07.043" UserId="12417" Text="Is there a brand of DDR4-2666 by SPD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38074" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11119" RevisionGUID="5f588561-6b31-4e82-9944-6897329e4891" CreationDate="2019-05-14T15:59:07.043" UserId="12417" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="15e91c81-db54-4894-9bcb-f5794b2e28b8" CreationDate="2019-05-14T22:50:05.420" UserId="12420" Text="We are looking for an 8 port switch that can be powered over ethernet. Looks like a device like this is a powered device (PD). I've heard that cisco makes switch products like this but don't know how to locate them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="15e91c81-db54-4894-9bcb-f5794b2e28b8" CreationDate="2019-05-14T22:50:05.420" UserId="12420" Text="Switch that can be powered over Ethernet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="15e91c81-db54-4894-9bcb-f5794b2e28b8" CreationDate="2019-05-14T22:50:05.420" UserId="12420" Text="&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38078" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="cb534d50-604f-4654-8cc8-b2b14ed2c349" CreationDate="2019-05-15T00:45:35.100" UserId="12420" Comment="added 160 characters in body" Text="We are looking for an 8 port switch that can be powered over ethernet. Looks like a device like this is a powered device (PD). I've heard that cisco makes switch products like this but don't know how to locate them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did come across this 5 port startec switch... but more ports would be idea.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch-PoE-Powered/dp/B01273JAD0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38082" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="706509ab-3b7d-49cf-ab6a-40cbe6c4c80c" CreationDate="2019-05-15T04:59:22.047" UserId="12374" Comment="Correct tags order" Text="I have just purchase the HP Elitebook 8570w and disassemble it for cleaning. Unfortunately when I was trying to put it back I broke all three clips locking cables connection touch-pad and fingerprint-scanner to the motherboard. Well, now I know at least that I was never suppose to pull them out, but thats one other story.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to look for exchange parts but I guess my English terminology lacks when it comes to hardware. So I am left with those questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How do you call this type of clip?&#xD;&#xA;- Is this some kind of universal part or am I on the mercy of the laptop manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One picture is worth a thousand words, so those are clips locking all three cables right bellow the gpu unit:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsDtQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38083" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11095" RevisionGUID="706509ab-3b7d-49cf-ab6a-40cbe6c4c80c" CreationDate="2019-05-15T04:59:22.047" UserId="12374" Comment="Correct tags order" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11125" RevisionGUID="699d12bd-255f-4708-a3ac-5bebb498a96c" CreationDate="2019-05-15T10:56:47.187" UserId="12427" Text="I am developing applications VTK-based similar to Paraview or those for Windows OS. Currently, I am having trouble with the GPU (NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS) since the screen shows noise (random colored pixels scattered in the screen) and it enforces me to reboot the PC (Intel i7 with 24 GB of RAM) to get rid of that noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I want to upgrade my workstation (probably purchasing a brand new one) I would like to know your recommendations for this kind of tasks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11125" RevisionGUID="699d12bd-255f-4708-a3ac-5bebb498a96c" CreationDate="2019-05-15T10:56:47.187" UserId="12427" Text="What's the appropriate hardware to use VTK-based applications?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11125" RevisionGUID="699d12bd-255f-4708-a3ac-5bebb498a96c" CreationDate="2019-05-15T10:56:47.187" UserId="12427" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38101" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="aa9ae2f6-f73f-463f-ac7a-7ce7c2e30b56" CreationDate="2019-05-15T21:51:35.613" UserId="12431" Text="new to this forum and first post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a big fan of Touhou games (pc-98 and windows) era. And I wanted to make a custom console to be able to play them on tv (a plug and play like console). For the PC-98 games, I was able to use a Raspberry PI with retroPie. But now, I'm stuck for the windows games. I tried using Wine with a Linux environment to at least see if it would work. Which it didn't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my friends recommended me to get a microcontroller with an x86 processor for that task. So I searched for a list of microcontrollers with that kind of specs but only found some that cost more than 100€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of the specs I at least need to run these games : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DirectX 9.0&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 512 VRAM&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot/16 GB of ROM&#xD;&#xA; - DirectSound&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if anything with these specs exists for that price, but I hope that I can at least get some possible alternatives &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38102" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="aa9ae2f6-f73f-463f-ac7a-7ce7c2e30b56" CreationDate="2019-05-15T21:51:35.613" UserId="12431" Text="Microcontroller to run x86 application" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38103" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="aa9ae2f6-f73f-463f-ac7a-7ce7c2e30b56" CreationDate="2019-05-15T21:51:35.613" UserId="12431" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="59dd76eb-2d36-47b7-93b8-81693961950e" CreationDate="2019-05-15T22:21:47.987" UserId="12431" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="new to this forum and first post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a big fan of Touhou games (pc-98 and windows) era. And I wanted to make a custom console to be able to play them on tv (a plug and play like console). For the PC-98 games, I was able to use a Raspberry PI with retroPie. But now, I'm stuck for the windows games. I tried using Wine with a Linux environment to at least see if it would work. Which it didn't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my friends recommended me to get a microcontroller with an x86 processor for that task. So I searched for a list of microcontrollers with that kind of specs but only found some that cost more than 70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of the specs I at least need to run these games : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DirectX 9.0&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 512 VRAM&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot/16 GB of ROM&#xD;&#xA; - DirectSound&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 60 euros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if anything with these specs exists for that price, but I hope that I can at least get some possible alternatives &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="b6dcc363-de33-4daa-806e-c48230f286eb" CreationDate="2019-05-16T08:51:32.817" UserId="12431" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="new to this forum and first post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a big fan of Touhou games (pc-98 and windows Era). And I wanted to make a custom console to be able to play them on tv (a plug and play like console). For the PC-98 games, I was able to use a Raspberry PI with retroPie. But now, I'm stuck for the windows games. I tried using Wine with a Linux environment to at least see if it would work. Which it didn't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my friends recommended me to get a microcontroller with an x86 processor for that task. So I searched for a list of microcontrollers with that kind of specs but only found some that cost more than 70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of the specs I at least need to run these games : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DirectX 9.0&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 512 Mb of VRAM&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot/16 GB of ROM&#xD;&#xA; - DirectSound&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 60 euros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if anything with these specs exists for that price, but I hope that I can at least get some possible alternatives &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38123" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="4347" RevisionGUID="3929c2a6-7be2-4760-a8bc-a6774cf90e7c" CreationDate="2019-05-16T13:26:17.600" UserId="704" Comment="edited title" Text="NAS (enclosure or complete solution) recommendation for home/small office" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38130" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11135" RevisionGUID="3d260df4-cc2d-4ed0-85c6-2bd933199759" CreationDate="2019-05-16T20:26:30.370" UserId="1873" Text="Take a look at the [Atomic Pi](https://dlidirect.com/products/atomic-pi) - it definitely satisfies all your hardware requirements. As for DirectX 9 and DirectSound those are software features which I am unable to comment on, although Wine might work in this case. The board should be able to run Windows too though.&#xA;&#xA;If you want to check if the games work under Wine on x86 Linux try it on your PC first. You might also have a look at [PlayOnLinux](https://www.playonlinux.com/en/) which greatly simplifies the process on running games under Wine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="83e4793f-4b35-477f-9efc-4de9804a74f3" CreationDate="2019-05-16T22:25:33.950" UserId="48" Comment="List formatting" Text="I'm looking for a gaming computer that will render the sharpest 4K videos of outdoor scenes well, and I'm wondering how the reviews of how GPUs do with games relate to that. I've found the [Digital Storm Avon][1] (Best version), which looks very promising and reasonably priced, but all the reviews seem to be about using it to play games, while I want to render videos with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen cautions in the reviews of GPUs, including some very similar to the Avon's NVIDIA RTX 2070 Max-P 8GB, saying that while they can put simple games into 4K with a pretty high frame rate, they slow down for more complex games. That raises a question, is the taxing part of the complex games generally the rendering, or is it something earlier in the process, like generating the situation itself that then gets rendered, which is not part of videos?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To put it in a nutshell: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Is the Avon good enough to render minimally compressed 4K videos of the outdoors with maybe 60 fps; &#xD;&#xA;2. Is it possible to get it delivered in less than a week;&#xD;&#xA;3. If not, can you recommend something else, first good enough and second preferably less than $3K, and;&#xD;&#xA;4. As a cherry on top, is there some straightforward breakdown of processing games, which I could compare to rendering videos?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.digitalstorm.com/gaming-laptops.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38132" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11090" RevisionGUID="83e4793f-4b35-477f-9efc-4de9804a74f3" CreationDate="2019-05-16T22:25:33.950" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 12370 edit id of 861" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="389a9103-b706-4eea-ae59-4a8f23a8832b" CreationDate="2019-05-17T00:20:25.600" UserId="12420" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="We are looking for an 8 port switch that can be powered over ethernet. Looks like a device like this is a powered device (PD). I've heard that cisco makes switch products like this but don't know how to locate them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did come across this 5 port startec switch... but more ports would be ideal. This switch does not need to power any additional PoE devices besides itself.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch-PoE-Powered/dp/B01273JAD0&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38134" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11136" RevisionGUID="1f528117-2995-43ef-8210-b63fab854fa8" CreationDate="2019-05-17T00:22:04.223" UserId="12420" Text="Here is a switch but would like to know of more switch options:&#xD;&#xA;NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Pro Switch (GS108T-300NAS)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS6Z162/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="097d022d-e320-4e2a-970c-825fa94ac47d" CreationDate="2019-05-17T00:26:54.677" UserId="12420" Comment="added 303 characters in body" Text="We are looking for an 8 port switch that can be powered over ethernet. Looks like a device like this is a powered device (PD). I've heard that cisco makes switch products like this but don't know how to locate them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did come across this 5 port startec switch... but more ports would be ideal. This switch does not need to power any additional PoE devices besides itself.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Switch-PoE-Powered/dp/B01273JAD0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the current candidate PSE switch:&#xD;&#xA;Cisco (SG300-52P-K9-NA) 52-Port Gigabit PoE Managed Switch&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHZJMB0/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer cisco or linksys because I'm familiar with those brands but reliability and value are the key items. Cisco can sometimes be expensive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38136" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11136" RevisionGUID="614c2a3e-73e3-41f1-95c8-5ffabad22926" CreationDate="2019-05-17T00:27:31.727" UserId="12420" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Here is a candidate switch but would like to know of more switch options:&#xD;&#xA;NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Pro Switch (GS108T-300NAS)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS6Z162/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11138" RevisionGUID="2d6cb86f-5fb9-40a3-844e-5c14fd491ea8" CreationDate="2019-05-17T08:49:59.930" UserId="12447" Text="I am data science master student and I am planning to buy a new laptop for good quality of work. So I am confused which laptop to buy. I have two choices: hp pavillion and hp probook g5.. here are the characteristics..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    CPU i5-8250U for both&#xD;&#xA;    RAM  12 GB (pavillion) 8 GB (probook)&#xD;&#xA;    128SSD+500HDD (pavillion) and 1TB HDD (probook)&#xD;&#xA;    same graphics card &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, by first glance pavillion is better than the probook, but the prices are the same so I was confused. I looked for an answer in forums, and there were written mainly that lower characteristics probook sometimes is better. So, can you give me some clarifications?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38142" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11138" RevisionGUID="2d6cb86f-5fb9-40a3-844e-5c14fd491ea8" CreationDate="2019-05-17T08:49:59.930" UserId="12447" Text="stronger hp pavillon or hp probook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38143" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11138" RevisionGUID="2d6cb86f-5fb9-40a3-844e-5c14fd491ea8" CreationDate="2019-05-17T08:49:59.930" UserId="12447" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38157" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8452" RevisionGUID="8fd23633-ed04-460f-9dbd-cec6102a4556" CreationDate="2019-05-18T21:00:54.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38188" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11150" RevisionGUID="4150878a-aab0-497a-b927-1766ba63e4dc" CreationDate="2019-05-20T16:18:05.043" UserId="84" Text="There's a vibrant market for these &quot;digital audio recorders&quot; (also often called &quot;digital voice recorders&quot;).  Here's a [Best Reviews description](https://www.amazon.com/ospublishing/story/6471bde0-69ff-41ce-920c-7fc31359381d/) of the current market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g., the [EVISTR L36](https://www.amazon.com/EVISTR-16gb-Digital-Voice-Reorder/dp/B07L8CLVY7) appears to check all your boxes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11150" RevisionGUID="3c0fcf1c-a7e0-40f8-8679-40f823ab4a8a" CreationDate="2019-05-20T18:58:02.733" UserId="84" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="There's a vibrant market for these &quot;digital audio recorders&quot; (also often called &quot;digital voice recorders&quot;).  Here's a [Best Reviews description](https://www.amazon.com/ospublishing/story/6471bde0-69ff-41ce-920c-7fc31359381d/) of the current market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g., the [EVISTR L36](https://www.amazon.com/EVISTR-16gb-Digital-Voice-Reorder/dp/B07L8CLVY7) appears to check all your boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note that the marginal cost of the mics can be negligible, so you probably won't find a DVR without one.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38207" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9488" RevisionGUID="02b98028-384d-4746-802d-584e363b110e" CreationDate="2019-05-21T11:49:44.270" UserId="7197" Comment="edited title" Text="Mobile device without a wireless interface to store sensitive informations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="d6a7af53-08cc-4f0c-b894-ff0b40073367" CreationDate="2019-05-21T21:18:11.057" UserId="48" Comment="List formatting" Text="I am currently building a new PC so I'm looking to give away my previous self build from 2011'ish to the kids. What I was wondering is would a modern graphics card, say something like a GTX 1660Ti be suitable for a GPU upgrade. I see from the spec that it still supports PCIe v3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will the old CPU &amp; Memory bottleneck the GTX 1660Ti significantly? If I decide to refresh the custom look would a decent overclock help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Spec**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU : Core i7-2700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard : Asus Rampage Gene IV (PCIe 3)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Memory : 16GB DDR3 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - GPU : GTX 580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Storage : SSD &amp; HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PSU : Corsair HX1050&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Custom Water cooling loop (CPU &amp; GPU) - Needs some work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38225" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11062" RevisionGUID="d6a7af53-08cc-4f0c-b894-ff0b40073367" CreationDate="2019-05-21T21:18:11.057" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 122, 60 edit id of 854" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38226" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="f3ff6333-4dfd-4a61-9718-cf308444d814" CreationDate="2019-05-22T00:04:05.847" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10577" RevisionGUID="5fdc79eb-fe51-4d1d-9ccf-c89ee319cf15" CreationDate="2019-05-22T07:01:22.847" UserId="1410" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I am getting tired of cross compilation. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- a cheap  (sub $100, preferably sub $50) Intel based SBC&#xD;&#xA;- with some form of flash/eMMC (but not just micro SD card)&#xD;&#xA;- a UART (two would be nice)&#xD;&#xA;- and GPIO&#xD;&#xA;- with a selection of displays available (from 3 lines of text x32 chars to about a 7” colo(u)r display)&#xD;&#xA;-	plus a 4x4 keypad, but I reckon the GPIO can take care of that&#xD;&#xA;-	and the ability to drive some stepper motors (GPIO again)&#xD;&#xA;-	WiFi would be a bonus&#xD;&#xA;-	single core is just fine&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don’t need the following, though won’t reject anything with, if it doesn’t affect the price too much:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-	multicore &#xD;&#xA;-	hi-res graphics / GPU&#xD;&#xA;-	sound&#xD;&#xA;-	camera&#xD;&#xA;-	Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;-	SATA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize, I am looking for something like a Raspberry Pi Zero W, with an some flash storage and an Intel processor which will let me develop on Windows / Linux without cross-compilation.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38242" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11162" RevisionGUID="0b6a4c9d-bec4-4f22-9843-7e744df44e7a" CreationDate="2019-05-22T14:01:21.917" UserId="5065" Text="### Cheap Intel SBCs&#xD;&#xA;There is not much choice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [UP board][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [Atomic Pi][1]&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;╭───────╥────────────┬─────────────╮&#xD;&#xA;│ Name  ║  UP board  │  ATOMIC Pi  │&#xD;&#xA;╞═══════╬════════════╪═════════════╡&#xD;&#xA;│ Price ║ &gt; $ 109    │ &gt; $ 35      │&#xD;&#xA;│ Flash ║ 16 - 64 GB │ 16GB        │&#xD;&#xA;│  UART ║ 1          │ 1           │&#xD;&#xA;│  GPIO ║ 40         │ 26          │&#xD;&#xA;└───────╨────────────┴─────────────┘&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dlidirect.com/products/atomic-pi&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://up-shop.org/up-boards/272-up-board.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38243" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="47d1ea13-6d72-466a-a70d-730a884a25cf" CreationDate="2019-05-22T15:02:15.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11168" RevisionGUID="2a51d178-e133-433a-b2e9-2aee96dfbde4" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:53:47.460" UserId="1410" Text="I would like to play around with ESP32, as I sense it might be the answer to my [previous question ]( https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10368/off-the-shelf-cheap-wearable-bluetooth-low-energy-device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like something which is battery powered, can be extremely low powered, as battery life is my key concern (so, I imagine that I would be better off using BLE than WiFi (?))).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won’t be using any GPIO, although it might be nice to have a display or development (possibly even for the final product, depending on the effect on battery life (the display would not be constantly active, only occasionally, as &amp; when needed, maximum one minute per hour)). I suppose some sort of buzzer/vibrator wouldn’t hurt, but it’s “nice to have” at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer programming in C (actually, I would prefer Ada, but that’s not likely), and could live with Python. A good IDE is a must have. In case of a tie,  support will play a role, as will price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it for tracking in a an industrial setting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any sugegstions?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38262" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11168" RevisionGUID="2a51d178-e133-433a-b2e9-2aee96dfbde4" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:53:47.460" UserId="1410" Text="ESP32 with battery (and display ?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38263" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11168" RevisionGUID="2a51d178-e133-433a-b2e9-2aee96dfbde4" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:53:47.460" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;esp32&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11169" RevisionGUID="43bffbd0-859e-4509-b7f2-871547d0da03" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:54:20.253" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11169" RevisionGUID="43bffbd0-859e-4509-b7f2-871547d0da03" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:54:20.253" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11170" RevisionGUID="7edf6ec5-9172-43c0-b739-07f0751c8969" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:54:20.253" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38267" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11170" RevisionGUID="7edf6ec5-9172-43c0-b739-07f0751c8969" CreationDate="2019-05-23T11:54:20.253" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="1433b194-f8ba-4b2e-b6ed-f1a0d2941076" CreationDate="2019-05-24T02:10:24.220" UserId="10437" Text="I'll be buying a new laptop and while searching for information for the best configuration I haven't yet found one website where there is clear real-world use-case information regarding the best setup for programming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be more specific: I'm a web developer. I daily use the commandline on Windows 10 Pro, the WSL. Many a times I need to execute commands like npm, yarn, gulp, docker, webpack configs, etc. which have lots of I/O to the SSD disk and high CPU usage. I need those commands to be executed as fast as possible. Commands like NPM or Yarn can take quite some time, average 40-50s. Docker is pretty fast, but mounting folders (of course, depends on the way you do it) is quite slow. Loading the homepage of a fresh WordPress installation on LAMP instantiated through Docker-Compose might take 2 seconds when in reality it should take less than 200ms. It's a local setup and a fresh installation, after all.&#xD;&#xA;I use PHPStorm as my IDE and execute most of these commands through the WSL terminal embedded in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having those needs in mind I'm searching for a laptop which can handle those tasks fast. I'm eyeing the upcoming Dell XPS 15 9580 this June or the Precision 5540/7740 later in July. Both use Intel i7-i9 and XEON respectively.&#xD;&#xA;The current XPS 15 9570 model has many complaints about issues which have been ignored by Dell, it seems. The Precision line, on the other hand, seems to be a mobile workstation specifically made to be more robust and reliable, although their intended use-cases are 3d modeling and high through-put computing, which I'm not so sure will apply to my current use-case. Maybe the Precision line is a bit overkill for what I need, but what really matters is reliability. I can't have any throttling, coil-whine or parts breaking. I need to work 10h average per day, and that's not counting my leisure use. I basically spend most of my day behind my current desktop computer. The laptop is for gaining a little bit of freedom and mobility, but without losing power in computing for work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd appreciate the input of senior programmers who could guide me in my search for the most convenient laptop for programming. Money is not an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38278" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="1433b194-f8ba-4b2e-b6ed-f1a0d2941076" CreationDate="2019-05-24T02:10:24.220" UserId="10437" Text="Which latptop hardware setup is the fastest and most optimized for programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38279" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="1433b194-f8ba-4b2e-b6ed-f1a0d2941076" CreationDate="2019-05-24T02:10:24.220" UserId="10437" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38292" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="c2c1b304-39f9-4bf2-8980-142da568a8e8" CreationDate="2019-05-24T12:36:50.587" UserId="4495" Comment="typo in title corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I'll be buying a new laptop and while searching for information for the best configuration I haven't yet found one website where there is clear real-world use-case information regarding the best setup for programming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be more specific: I'm a web developer. I daily use the commandline on Windows 10 Pro, the WSL. Many a times I need to execute commands like npm, yarn, gulp, docker, webpack configs, etc. which have lots of I/O to the SSD disk and high CPU usage. I need those commands to be executed as fast as possible. Commands like NPM or Yarn can take quite some time, average 40-50s. Docker is pretty fast, but mounting folders (of course, depends on the way you do it) is quite slow. Loading the homepage of a fresh WordPress installation on LAMP instantiated through Docker-Compose might take 2 seconds when in reality it should take less than 200ms. It's a local setup and a fresh installation, after all.&#xD;&#xA;I use PHPStorm as my IDE and execute most of these commands through the WSL terminal embedded in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having those needs in mind I'm searching for a laptop which can handle those tasks fast. I'm eyeing the upcoming Dell XPS 15 9580 this June or the Precision 5540/7740 later in July. Both use Intel i7-i9 and XEON respectively.&#xD;&#xA;The current XPS 15 9570 model has many complaints about issues which have been ignored by Dell, it seems. The Precision line, on the other hand, seems to be a mobile workstation specifically made to be more robust and reliable, although their intended use-cases are 3d modeling and high through-put computing, which I'm not so sure will apply to my current use-case. Maybe the Precision line is a bit overkill for what I need, but what really matters is reliability. I can't have any throttling, coil-whine or parts breaking. I need to work 10h average per day, and that's not counting my leisure use. I basically spend most of my day behind my current desktop computer. The laptop is for gaining a little bit of freedom and mobility, but without losing power in computing for work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd appreciate the input of senior programmers who could guide me in my search for the most convenient laptop for programming. Money is not an issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38293" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="c2c1b304-39f9-4bf2-8980-142da568a8e8" CreationDate="2019-05-24T12:36:50.587" UserId="4495" Comment="typo in title corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="Which laptop hardware setup is the fastest and most optimized for programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38294" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11174" RevisionGUID="c2c1b304-39f9-4bf2-8980-142da568a8e8" CreationDate="2019-05-24T12:36:50.587" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 10437 edit id of 869" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11180" RevisionGUID="38c1d7de-bfd5-4fe0-9da8-0d48584d4566" CreationDate="2019-05-24T13:09:30.667" UserId="12517" Text="I am looking to acquire a Core i7 7700 (non k) in a week or so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`MSI Radeon RX 570 4gb ARMOR OC Edition&#xD;&#xA; MSI KRAIT B250 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; Pentium G4600 @ 3.6gHz&#xD;&#xA; Corsair H75 AIO Watercooler&#xD;&#xA; 8gb ddr4 ram @ 2133 mHz&#xD;&#xA; 240gb Gigabyte SSD&#xD;&#xA; 2 500gb Seagate HDD's&#xD;&#xA;`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched online on forums, etc. , but most of the sites are people asking about the 7700k variant. So my worry is that the H75 will not be strong enough to cool the 7700. Will I have to get a new CPU Cooler or should it be strong enough? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38299" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11180" RevisionGUID="38c1d7de-bfd5-4fe0-9da8-0d48584d4566" CreationDate="2019-05-24T13:09:30.667" UserId="12517" Text="Will a Corsair H75 cooler be enough to cool a Core i7 7700?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38300" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11180" RevisionGUID="38c1d7de-bfd5-4fe0-9da8-0d48584d4566" CreationDate="2019-05-24T13:09:30.667" UserId="12517" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38317" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="9a8c7f5a-3e35-453f-84ef-ba6bc5800cf7" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:16:52.630" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I conduct focus group discussions. I'm looking for a recorder that records the voice of each participants in a separate channel, so that I can analyse each participant separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I get all the voices recorded in a single channel and I can't separate them. So basically I would like to know who has said what.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the format should be either FLAC or LINEAR16 while recording." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38318" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="9a8c7f5a-3e35-453f-84ef-ba6bc5800cf7" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:16:52.630" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="How can I record the voice of each individual in a separate channel?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38319" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11097" RevisionGUID="9a8c7f5a-3e35-453f-84ef-ba6bc5800cf7" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:16:52.630" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11170" RevisionGUID="1ff58018-013f-4b23-80c9-ba696968cbb3" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:16:56.250" UserId="1410" Comment="added 121 characters in body" Text="ESP32 is a series of low-cost, low-power system on a chip microcontrollers with integrated Wi-Fi and dual-mode Bluetooth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38321" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11170" RevisionGUID="1ff58018-013f-4b23-80c9-ba696968cbb3" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:16:56.250" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 57 edit id of 868" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="2e93e7d1-25fa-490f-9d78-4213f2ec0152" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:17:08.083" UserId="4495" Comment="broken link fixed" Text="I am seeking recommendations for a field monitor, with screen size around 7 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* which can be used live with the Sony DSC HX60 camera on a tripod,&#xD;&#xA;* while connecting to the camera's HDMI out port, and&#xD;&#xA;* which can be viewed from in front of the camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Note: I have read the advice regarding what kinds of question are acceptable here, including [this meta question][1]. My conclusion was that this question is all right, given the advice in @Undo's [accepted and second most-favoured answer][2] which defines &quot;hardware&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation&quot;, and a &quot;primary computer system&quot; as &quot;any primarily electronic item that can perform meaningful tasks on its own with minimal external support, and designed to be operated by a user, consumer or professional&quot;; and given his reference to a microphone as a device that can perform more than one task. A digital camera meets the criteria for being a &quot;primary computer system&quot;, and if a microphone can perform more than one task then so can a field monitor. On top of this, the question also meets the requirements suggested in @Cfinley's [most-favoured but not accepted answer][3], in which he expresses the view that things are on-topic that are specifically designed to be used with hardware - a term he doesn't define, but which according to @ArtOfCode's accepted answer to [this question][4] should be taken to include digital cameras.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/267/9545&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/386/recommendations-for-digital-camera-with-very-specific-features-on-topic#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38325" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9762" RevisionGUID="2e93e7d1-25fa-490f-9d78-4213f2ec0152" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:17:08.083" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 862" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38328" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11108" RevisionGUID="5fb9ca82-2111-4b1e-bb4e-472b4239c15c" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:17:16.577" UserId="48" Comment="List formatting" Text="From what you have asked, It looks quite straightforward to me so I am assuming that you are new to controllers. Apologies otherwise. What you need to do is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Serially connect both devices (I2C/SPI).&#xD;&#xA;2. Program ESP32 to send a command/message serially to Arduino to switch on/off the fan relay based on your temperature thresholds.&#xD;&#xA;3. Program the Arduino to switch the fan relay on/off according to the received message." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38329" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11108" RevisionGUID="5fb9ca82-2111-4b1e-bb4e-472b4239c15c" CreationDate="2019-05-25T01:17:16.577" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 856" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38335" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="23bbe826-0027-470d-b53c-882f88819704" CreationDate="2019-05-25T13:02:45.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11188" RevisionGUID="e1fa2380-9bcc-4e36-b2fb-855fa9ce536c" CreationDate="2019-05-26T02:30:58.203" UserId="9588" Text="https://www.lindy.co.uk/usb-thunderbolt-c4/4-port-usb-3-1-gen-2-type-c-hub-p11211&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Provides 4 USB 3.1 Gen 2 SuperSpeed+ ports with data rates up to 10Gbps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Allows connection of 2 Type A and 2 Type C peripherals&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.iogear.com/product/GUH3C22P/ is not so explicit but it does say 10 gbit/s.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coolgear has tons https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-hubs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="3f4b747d-bfcc-46ae-bee8-03e399744815" CreationDate="2019-05-26T23:45:42.957" UserId="3800" Text="I would like to know if there is a way to calculate what is the equivalent between a monitor type 16: 9 and one of 21: 9, since I saw some videos looking for what was more beneficial to each other, but in one part they talked about the subject of height, which spoke of a monitor type 21: 9 of 34 inches, equivalent to one of 27 &quot;, I do not remember exactly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the case that someone has a monitor 25 &quot;16: 9, and wants it changes to a type 21: 9, what would be the equivalent to maintain the same height as a 16: 9?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38362" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="3f4b747d-bfcc-46ae-bee8-03e399744815" CreationDate="2019-05-26T23:45:42.957" UserId="3800" Text="Equivalence of screen size and resolution between 16: 9 and 21: 9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38363" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="3f4b747d-bfcc-46ae-bee8-03e399744815" CreationDate="2019-05-26T23:45:42.957" UserId="3800" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5425a5c5-0060-4e78-875c-90d0da672e13" CreationDate="2019-05-27T17:01:40.123" UserId="10691" Text="I'm in the process of selecting a laptop.  I'm in a bit of a conundrum as my budget is limited. I need the laptop to run Win 10 prof., but I also need to install a Linux Debian-based distro and it will have to run computational-intense software. Is it better to install Linux on a VM or side-by-side on the hard drive? Which element is most important to ensure performance in each scenario, RAM memory, processor speed, HD speed, or HD capacity? Thanks. I'd like to put my money where I would get the most bang for the buck. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5425a5c5-0060-4e78-875c-90d0da672e13" CreationDate="2019-05-27T17:01:40.123" UserId="10691" Text="What is more Importance for virtual memory peformance, RAM, HD speed, or Processor speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38368" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5425a5c5-0060-4e78-875c-90d0da672e13" CreationDate="2019-05-27T17:01:40.123" UserId="10691" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38396" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11040" RevisionGUID="e165cbb0-43dd-47c4-8797-2c85cfa256f4" CreationDate="2019-05-28T02:28:54.597" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38404" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11200" RevisionGUID="94364212-d6b0-4abf-ba28-9d6187fcefa3" CreationDate="2019-05-28T11:18:43.427" UserId="12546" Text="I am seriously considering buying a 9.7 iPad, but I have an Android phone and I am not sure about the compatibility between these 2. Is the hotspot functionality from my Android device going to work with the iPad? Is it going to be easy to connect to my Linux &amp; Windows PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38405" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11200" RevisionGUID="94364212-d6b0-4abf-ba28-9d6187fcefa3" CreationDate="2019-05-28T11:18:43.427" UserId="12546" Text="Is it worth buying an iPad if I have an Android smartphone and Windows computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38406" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11200" RevisionGUID="94364212-d6b0-4abf-ba28-9d6187fcefa3" CreationDate="2019-05-28T11:18:43.427" UserId="12546" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11201" RevisionGUID="c9d961cc-fc83-49b5-9506-5eac9ea566e1" CreationDate="2019-05-28T12:40:21.300" UserId="12547" Text="There shouldn't be any issues with hotspots. As for Linux/windows connectivity it depends what do you wish to do with your device. If you only wish to transfer songs/videos/pics then it will be fine with Windows through iTunes since Apple has a version for Windows. With Linux it gets a bit tricky. There isn't a version of iTunes that Linux supports natively, but you can get it running with WINE. In my personal experience (I use iPhone+iPad with Windows PC) it took quite some time to get used to iTunes, but once you do it works great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38408" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11086" RevisionGUID="2d3a6a4c-e0b9-4ac5-92d7-2e8c85e26c07" CreationDate="2019-05-28T13:02:52.500" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5cff9e45-af02-4071-b217-6ab147f6432c" CreationDate="2019-05-28T13:58:45.997" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Fixed capitalization and spelling, changed structure a little for better readability" Text="I'm in the process of selecting a laptop.  I'm in a bit of a conundrum as my budget is limited. I need the laptop to run Windows 10 Professional, but I also need to install a Linux Debian-based distro and it will have to run computational-intense software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it better to install Linux on a VM or side-by-side on the hard drive? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which element is most important to ensure performance in each scenario, RAM memory, processor speed, HDD speed, or HDD capacity? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks. I'd like to put my money where I would get the most bang for the buck. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38410" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5cff9e45-af02-4071-b217-6ab147f6432c" CreationDate="2019-05-28T13:58:45.997" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Fixed capitalization and spelling, changed structure a little for better readability" Text="What is more important for virtual memory performance? RAM, HDD speed, or processor speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38411" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="5cff9e45-af02-4071-b217-6ab147f6432c" CreationDate="2019-05-28T13:58:45.997" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 10691 edit id of 871" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38415" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="6fec713b-3a1b-4850-bf66-6635e36124ac" CreationDate="2019-05-28T14:17:22.900" UserId="10691" Comment="deleted 208 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm in the process of selecting a PC.  I'm in a bit of a conundrum as my budget is limited. I need to run Windows 10 Professional and Linux Debian distro on the same PC. I hope to install one of them on a virtual machine. When it comes to virtual machine performance what is most important: RAM, processor speed/capacity, or hard drive speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38416" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11195" RevisionGUID="6fec713b-3a1b-4850-bf66-6635e36124ac" CreationDate="2019-05-28T14:17:22.900" UserId="10691" Comment="deleted 208 characters in body; edited title" Text="What is more important for running an OS on a virtual machine RAM, HDD speed, or processor speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11203" RevisionGUID="f589702c-fd70-40ce-9b29-a28d12f13b5f" CreationDate="2019-05-28T15:59:06.710" UserId="12552" Text="I have a Lenovo 320 laptop which has core i3 processor, 7th generation and 4GB RAM. Now for Programming what should I upgrade? Should I upgrade 4GB to 8GB or add 250GB SSD with 1TB HDD? I am really confused. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38418" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11203" RevisionGUID="f589702c-fd70-40ce-9b29-a28d12f13b5f" CreationDate="2019-05-28T15:59:06.710" UserId="12552" Text="Which should I upgrade for programming in Laptop, RAM or SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38419" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11203" RevisionGUID="f589702c-fd70-40ce-9b29-a28d12f13b5f" CreationDate="2019-05-28T15:59:06.710" UserId="12552" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11206" RevisionGUID="a5626e8d-0a09-43dd-807a-84f56c7b6e4f" CreationDate="2019-05-28T21:07:36.050" UserId="12557" Text="It depends on what you mean by programming. Are you going to use this laptop for an intro to programming class? &#xA;&#xA;If so, its fine as is and you shouldn't need to upgrade anything.&#xA;&#xA;If you want your computer to run better for development purposes, my recommendation is that when you run whatever code you have written keep an eye on your resource usage in the Windows task manager. If you see that you're RAM usage is high then get more RAM. If you see that you are reading a lot from disk, then get an SSD if you feel like your program is taking too long to run." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11214" RevisionGUID="9885e593-5c3f-4fe7-9ac0-7d2ef74e49bb" CreationDate="2019-05-30T08:22:20.330" UserId="12579" Text="I would advise you to consider, independently of everything, an SSD, since it is a component that really makes the difference. I recommend 16GB of RAM, so you can ensure a remarkable longevity, both for local use and for VM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="316f354a-57ff-4a45-aacb-7fbde6a07fe7" CreationDate="2019-05-30T12:26:02.703" UserId="12333" Text="Over the next month, I want to upgrade/renew my setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current setup** is kind of old:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Mainboard:** EVGA Classified SR-X&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** 2x Xeon E5-2630 Hexa-Core @2,3GHz&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 20GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** INNO3D GeForce GTX 950, 2GB&#xD;&#xA;- **Drives:** 128GB SSD, 2x 1,5 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **Power Supply:** Xilence Modular Series ATX2.3&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU Cooler:** Scythe Mugen 3 Rev. B PCGH-Edition&#xD;&#xA;- **Case:** Lian Li PC-Z70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5.1 sound JACK cable connections on my mainboard are kind of broken, which doesn't matter to me much, because I use optical toslink cabel to plug in my headset. For internet connection, I use Wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for future setup**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, I aim for good performance in Gaming, 3D Graphics and Development. More specifically, I want to do 3D grafics including particle effects, interactive grooming, etc. Below, I try to sum up the most important Applications and Games that I focus on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Computer Graphics minimum requirements** &#xD;&#xA;(from [Autodesk][1], [Arnold Renderer Docs][3], [Allegorithmic Tech specs][4], [UE4 Docs][5]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit Intel® or AMD® multi-core processor with SSE4.2 instruction set, 2.5 GHz or faster&#xD;&#xA;- minimum 16 GB RAM, better 32 GB (for running multiple apps simultaniously)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU (from [Certified GPUs for Maya][2]): Geforce RTX 2080, RTX 2070 RTX 2060, TITAN V, TITAN X, GTX 1080, GTX 1070, GTX 1060, GTX 980, GTX 970, GTX 680, GTX 965M, GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;- CUDA™ Compute Capability 5.0&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GPU of the Turing, Volta, Pascal, or Maxwell architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Game requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do play RPGs most of the time. Games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Rise of the Tomb Raider, the upcoming This Land is my land, but also Division and Division 2, Forza Horizon 4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to sum up the requirments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** &#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Intel Core i7 3.2Ghz or equivalent &#xD;&#xA;   - Forza Horizon 4: Intel i7-3820 @ 3.6Ghz&#xD;&#xA;   - Shadow of the Tomb Raider: Intel Core i7 4770K, 3.40 Ghz or AMD Ryzen 5 1600, 3.20 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 16GB &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will upgrade my GPU soon, probably to a RTX 2080 or even a 2080 Ti. But I don't know what to do about the rest of my setup. I'm a little bit afraid of buying everything new at once, so I would prefer to buy the parts one by one over time, but end up on an up to date system anyway. :|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My mainboard seems to be very old. Would you recommend buying a new one? If so, what would you recommend? Can I use some of my old hardware on my new board until I have the money to buy new hardware or do I have to buy everything at once?&#xD;&#xA;- I'm thinking about addind a larger SSD, because I'm running out of memory on my 128GB SSD. Would you recommend M.2? If so, how would you introduce M.2 to my current or future setup? &#xD;&#xA;- As todays CPUs have many cores in one CPU, I assume that a dual socket setup is not really worth it, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;- most applications recommend 16 GB RAM. I want to work on one machine with multiple applications simultaniously. Of course I actually work only in one of them, but the others are running in the background. How much RAM do I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I use my old DDR3 RAM in a DDR4 mainboard til I can afford new RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/maya/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-Autodesk-Maya-2019.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/sites/default/files/HardwareCertification_Maya_Arnold_MotionBuilder_Mudbox2019.1_v01.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://docs.arnoldrenderer.com/display/A5ARP/System+Requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.substance3d.com/products/tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://docs.unrealengine.com/en-US/GettingStarted/RecommendedSpecifications/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="316f354a-57ff-4a45-aacb-7fbde6a07fe7" CreationDate="2019-05-30T12:26:02.703" UserId="12333" Text="How to upgrade my Hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="316f354a-57ff-4a45-aacb-7fbde6a07fe7" CreationDate="2019-05-30T12:26:02.703" UserId="12333" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38458" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="3bd0c8d1-9ed0-46c9-9aa1-9678db7b6514" CreationDate="2019-05-30T12:31:06.340" UserId="12333" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="Over the next month, I want to upgrade/renew my setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current setup** is kind of old:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Mainboard:** EVGA Classified SR-X&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** 2x Xeon E5-2630 Hexa-Core @2,3GHz&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 20GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** INNO3D GeForce GTX 950, 2GB&#xD;&#xA;- **Drives:** 128GB SSD, 2x 1,5 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **Power Supply:** Xilence Modular Series ATX2.3&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU Cooler:** Scythe Mugen 3 Rev. B PCGH-Edition&#xD;&#xA;- **Case:** Lian Li PC-Z70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5.1 sound JACK cable connections on my mainboard are kind of broken, which doesn't matter to me much, because I use optical toslink cabel to plug in my headset. For internet connection, I use Wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for future setup**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, I aim for good performance in Gaming, 3D Graphics and Development. More specifically, I want to do 3D grafics including particle effects, interactive grooming, etc. Below, I try to sum up the most important Applications and Games that I focus on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Computer Graphics minimum requirements** &#xD;&#xA;(from [Autodesk][1], [Arnold Renderer Docs][3], [Allegorithmic Tech specs][4], [UE4 Docs][5]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit Intel® or AMD® multi-core processor with SSE4.2 instruction set, 2.5 GHz or faster&#xD;&#xA;- minimum 16 GB RAM, better 32 GB (for running multiple apps simultaniously)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU (from [Certified GPUs for Maya][2]): Geforce RTX 2080, RTX 2070 RTX 2060, TITAN V, TITAN X, GTX 1080, GTX 1070, GTX 1060, GTX 980, GTX 970, GTX 680, GTX 965M, GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;- CUDA™ Compute Capability 5.0&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GPU of the Turing, Volta, Pascal, or Maxwell architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Game requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do play RPGs most of the time. Games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Rise of the Tomb Raider, the upcoming This Land is my land, but also Division and Division 2, Forza Horizon 4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to sum up the requirments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** &#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Intel Core i7 3.2Ghz or equivalent &#xD;&#xA;   - Forza Horizon 4: Intel i7-3820 @ 3.6Ghz&#xD;&#xA;   - Shadow of the Tomb Raider: Intel Core i7 4770K, 3.40 Ghz or AMD Ryzen 5 1600, 3.20 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;   - shadow of the tomb raider: at 2160p raytracing: RTX 2080 Ti&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 16GB &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will upgrade my GPU soon, probably to a RTX 2080 or even a 2080 Ti. But I don't know what to do about the rest of my setup. I'm a little bit afraid of buying everything new at once (because of the price), so I would prefer to buy the parts one by one over time, but end up on an up to date system anyway. :|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My mainboard seems to be very old. Would you recommend buying a new one? If so, what would you recommend? Can I use some of my old hardware on my new board until I have the money to buy new hardware or do I have to buy everything at once?&#xD;&#xA;- I'm thinking about addind a larger SSD, because I'm running out of memory on my 128GB SSD. Would you recommend M.2? If so, how would you introduce M.2 to my current or future setup? &#xD;&#xA;- As todays CPUs have many cores in one CPU, I assume that a dual socket setup is not really worth it, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;- most applications recommend 16 GB RAM. I want to work on one machine with multiple applications simultaniously. Of course I actually work only in one of them, but the others are running in the background. How much RAM do I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I use my old DDR3 RAM in a DDR4 mainboard til I can afford new RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/maya/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-Autodesk-Maya-2019.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/sites/default/files/HardwareCertification_Maya_Arnold_MotionBuilder_Mudbox2019.1_v01.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://docs.arnoldrenderer.com/display/A5ARP/System+Requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.substance3d.com/products/tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://docs.unrealengine.com/en-US/GettingStarted/RecommendedSpecifications/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11218" RevisionGUID="fa27cd8a-ea07-4f1b-a7e4-46105414e2c2" CreationDate="2019-05-30T14:43:20.590" UserId="1977" Text="I need to control some USB smartcard readers from a virtual machine (linux), can you recommend a device with good drivers to let the VM see the physical USB devices connected like a physical computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38466" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11218" RevisionGUID="fa27cd8a-ea07-4f1b-a7e4-46105414e2c2" CreationDate="2019-05-30T14:43:20.590" UserId="1977" Text="Sharing USB device over ethernet to virtual machine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38467" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11218" RevisionGUID="fa27cd8a-ea07-4f1b-a7e4-46105414e2c2" CreationDate="2019-05-30T14:43:20.590" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11219" RevisionGUID="3a676ec6-76a8-4772-aaa9-abd49942d8d9" CreationDate="2019-05-31T07:07:14.447" UserId="9356" Text="I'm looking for a good microphone for recording speech (eg. for radio presenting), for about 60-70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a USB one but I'll look into all suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worth mention that I have a desktop but I don't have any external sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound must have quality so no background noise and if it can come with a micstand that's even better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A friend recommended me a [Blue Snowball Microphone](https://www.bluedesigns.com/products/snowball/) but already got 4 people saying otherwise because it breaks easily and I'm worried about that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Note: Similar [question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/169/good-cheap-microphone-for-speech-voice-recording). (2015)&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38473" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11219" RevisionGUID="3a676ec6-76a8-4772-aaa9-abd49942d8d9" CreationDate="2019-05-31T07:07:14.447" UserId="9356" Text="A good microphone for voice recording / radio presenting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38474" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11219" RevisionGUID="3a676ec6-76a8-4772-aaa9-abd49942d8d9" CreationDate="2019-05-31T07:07:14.447" UserId="9356" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11221" RevisionGUID="cfec3b6c-ebdf-4d5a-a76e-b902b308a905" CreationDate="2019-05-31T09:40:07.230" UserId="12589" Text="I apologise in advance if I have posted this in the wrong stackechange site, I wasn't quite sure which to post it on and this one seemed like the best match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a very low end GPU for my 10 year old PC. It would be for running linux and occasional light gaming (Minecraft and maybe some emulation, not exactly sure what I want to do with it yet)! The reason I have decided to not stick with the card integrated to the motherboard is because I would have to downgrade to a very old Linux Kernel version to use the proprietary driver, and the 'nouveau' open source one isn't very good. I just wanted to clarify I'm not expecting (or wanting) a gaming pc, I just wanted to run a newer kernel and have fewer graphical issues.  It's current system specs are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;System information report, generated by Sysinfo: 27/05/2019 17:18:20&#xD;&#xA;http://sourceforge.net/projects/gsysinfo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SYSTEM INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    Running LinuxMint Linux, the LinuxMint 19.1 (tessa) release.&#xD;&#xA;    GNOME: 3.28.2 (Ubuntu)&#xD;&#xA;    Kernel version: 4.15.0-20-generic (#21-Ubuntu SMP Tue Apr 24 06:16:15 UTC 2018)&#xD;&#xA;    GCC: 7 (x86_64-linux-gnu)&#xD;&#xA;    Xorg: 1.19.6 (25 October 2018  04:11:27PM) (25 October 2018  04:11:27PM)&#xD;&#xA;    Hostname: jeremy-ixtreme-M3720&#xD;&#xA;    Uptime: 0 days 0 h 49 min&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    GenuineIntel, Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU    Q8300  @ 2.50GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Number of CPUs: 4&#xD;&#xA;    CPU clock currently at 2000.092 MHz with 2048 KB cache&#xD;&#xA;    Numbering: family(6) model(23) stepping(10)&#xD;&#xA;    Bogomips: 4999.94&#xD;&#xA;    Flags: fpu vme de pse tsc msr pae mce cx8 apic sep mtrr pge mca cmov pat pse36 clflush dts acpi mmx fxsr sse sse2 ss ht tm pbe syscall nx lm constant_tsc arch_perfmon pebs bts rep_good nopl cpuid aperfmperf pni dtes64 monitor ds_cpl vmx est tm2 ssse3 cx16 xtpr pdcm sse4_1 xsave lahf_lm pti tpr_shadow vnmi flexpriority dtherm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MEMORY INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    Total memory: 7724 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Total swap: 2047 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;STORAGE INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi3&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  ATAPI    &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  DVD A  DH16AASH  &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi4&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  ATA      &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  ADATA SU650      &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi6&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  Generic  &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  USB SD Reader    &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi6&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  Generic  &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  USB CF Reader    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HARDWARE INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;MOTHERBOARD&#xD;&#xA;    Host bridge&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 Host Bridge (rev a2)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 Host Bridge&#xD;&#xA;    PCI bridge(s)&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 01 [Subtractive decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;    ISA bridge&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 LPC Bridge (rev a2)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 LPC Bridge&#xD;&#xA;    IDE interface&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 IDE Controller (rev a1) (prog-if 8a [Master SecP PriP])&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 IDE Controller&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GRAPHIC CARD&#xD;&#xA;    VGA controller&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation C73 [GeForce 7100 / nForce 630i] (rev a2) (prog-if 00 [VGA controller])&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] C73 [GeForce 7100 / nForce 630i]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SOUND CARD&#xD;&#xA;    Multimedia controller&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 High Definition Audio (rev a1)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 High Definition Audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NETWORK&#xD;&#xA;    Ethernet controller&#xD;&#xA;        Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8101/2/6E PCI Express Fast/Gigabit Ethernet controller (rev 01)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] RTL810xE PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Other specs not listed there include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**250 Watt PSU** (likely awful, the one included in the pre-built. Pretty sure it's *proprietary* too. I understand upgrading this would be hard, though I will do it if it is the only way forward)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**One PCI slot**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**One PCI Express slot**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I am on a tight budget. I am fine with a card at or under £50, new or second hand. I can check whether the latest Linux kernels support it so you don't have to, but I would imagine most GPUs made within the last 5 years are still supported.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38479" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11221" RevisionGUID="cfec3b6c-ebdf-4d5a-a76e-b902b308a905" CreationDate="2019-05-31T09:40:07.230" UserId="12589" Text="Low end GPU with a 250 watt PSU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38480" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11221" RevisionGUID="cfec3b6c-ebdf-4d5a-a76e-b902b308a905" CreationDate="2019-05-31T09:40:07.230" UserId="12589" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;smps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38481" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1813" RevisionGUID="8c109474-3d0b-41e1-8c0d-76cd758fad56" CreationDate="2019-05-31T10:53:48.993" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections" Text="I bought a Razer Tiamat 7.1 headset. I was a bit silly though and thought the USB that connect the headset to the computer was not just to power the headset. I'm using a laptop and it obviously doesn't have a 7.1 sound card. It does come with female 3.5mm jacks to micro USB, but those are meant for connecting other speakers through the control unit of the headphones. Maybe there is a way to hack it so it uses it to connect the headphones to the laptop's USB instead, but I doubt so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So are their any decent solutions for going from 7.1 3.5mm jacks to USB or HDMI? Also I don't want to spend more than $50 on a solution for this. Otherwise I guess I'll be destined to use it in 2.1 mode until I upgrade to a desktop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38482" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1813" RevisionGUID="8c109474-3d0b-41e1-8c0d-76cd758fad56" CreationDate="2019-05-31T10:53:48.993" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1546 edit id of 874" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11222" RevisionGUID="791499c9-9200-4d33-bc33-b2302e0d755a" CreationDate="2019-05-31T11:41:53.487" UserId="12517" Text="With a 250w psu you won't get far. I think the strongest card you would be able to run is either a Gtx 750 ti, or a RX 460, which will have to be under clocked. Neither of these require an external power cable and pull around 60 watts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just make sure your power supply can supply enough amps on the 12v rail, and you should be fine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11221" RevisionGUID="a1e7685d-e804-4dc4-b7eb-43fe1da7c433" CreationDate="2019-05-31T13:19:54.390" UserId="12589" Comment="Added speculative purchases" Text="I apologise in advance if I have posted this in the wrong stackechange site, I wasn't quite sure which to post it on and this one seemed like the best match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a very low end GPU for my 10 year old PC. It would be for running linux and occasional light gaming (Minecraft and maybe some emulation, not exactly sure what I want to do with it yet)! The reason I have decided to not stick with the card integrated to the motherboard is because I would have to downgrade to a very old Linux Kernel version to use the proprietary driver, and the 'nouveau' open source one isn't very good. I just wanted to clarify I'm not expecting (or wanting) a gaming pc, I just wanted to run a newer kernel and have fewer graphical issues.  It's current system specs are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;System information report, generated by Sysinfo: 27/05/2019 17:18:20&#xD;&#xA;http://sourceforge.net/projects/gsysinfo&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SYSTEM INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    Running LinuxMint Linux, the LinuxMint 19.1 (tessa) release.&#xD;&#xA;    GNOME: 3.28.2 (Ubuntu)&#xD;&#xA;    Kernel version: 4.15.0-20-generic (#21-Ubuntu SMP Tue Apr 24 06:16:15 UTC 2018)&#xD;&#xA;    GCC: 7 (x86_64-linux-gnu)&#xD;&#xA;    Xorg: 1.19.6 (25 October 2018  04:11:27PM) (25 October 2018  04:11:27PM)&#xD;&#xA;    Hostname: jeremy-ixtreme-M3720&#xD;&#xA;    Uptime: 0 days 0 h 49 min&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    GenuineIntel, Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU    Q8300  @ 2.50GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Number of CPUs: 4&#xD;&#xA;    CPU clock currently at 2000.092 MHz with 2048 KB cache&#xD;&#xA;    Numbering: family(6) model(23) stepping(10)&#xD;&#xA;    Bogomips: 4999.94&#xD;&#xA;    Flags: fpu vme de pse tsc msr pae mce cx8 apic sep mtrr pge mca cmov pat pse36 clflush dts acpi mmx fxsr sse sse2 ss ht tm pbe syscall nx lm constant_tsc arch_perfmon pebs bts rep_good nopl cpuid aperfmperf pni dtes64 monitor ds_cpl vmx est tm2 ssse3 cx16 xtpr pdcm sse4_1 xsave lahf_lm pti tpr_shadow vnmi flexpriority dtherm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MEMORY INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    Total memory: 7724 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Total swap: 2047 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;STORAGE INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi3&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  ATAPI    &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  DVD A  DH16AASH  &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi4&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  ATA      &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  ADATA SU650      &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi6&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  Generic  &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  USB SD Reader    &#xD;&#xA;    SCSI device -  scsi6&#xD;&#xA;        Vendor:  Generic  &#xD;&#xA;        Model:  USB CF Reader    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HARDWARE INFORMATION&#xD;&#xA;MOTHERBOARD&#xD;&#xA;    Host bridge&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 Host Bridge (rev a2)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 Host Bridge&#xD;&#xA;    PCI bridge(s)&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 01 [Subtractive decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 PCI Express bridge (rev a1) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode])&#xD;&#xA;    ISA bridge&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 LPC Bridge (rev a2)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 LPC Bridge&#xD;&#xA;    IDE interface&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 IDE Controller (rev a1) (prog-if 8a [Master SecP PriP])&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 IDE Controller&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GRAPHIC CARD&#xD;&#xA;    VGA controller&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation C73 [GeForce 7100 / nForce 630i] (rev a2) (prog-if 00 [VGA controller])&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] C73 [GeForce 7100 / nForce 630i]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SOUND CARD&#xD;&#xA;    Multimedia controller&#xD;&#xA;        NVIDIA Corporation MCP73 High Definition Audio (rev a1)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] MCP73 High Definition Audio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NETWORK&#xD;&#xA;    Ethernet controller&#xD;&#xA;        Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8101/2/6E PCI Express Fast/Gigabit Ethernet controller (rev 01)&#xD;&#xA;        Subsystem: Acer Incorporated [ALI] RTL810xE PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Other specs not listed there include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**250 Watt PSU** (likely awful, the one included in the pre-built. Pretty sure it's *proprietary* too. I understand upgrading this would be hard, though I will do it if it is the only way forward)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**One PCI slot**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**One PCI Express slot**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And I am on a tight budget. I am fine with a card at or under £50, new or second hand. I can check whether the latest Linux kernels support it so you don't have to, but I would imagine most GPUs made within the last 5 years are still supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**EDIT**&#xD;&#xA;Currently thinking about one of [these][1] or one of [these][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSI-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-750-Ti-2GB-GDDR5-Video-Card-V809-1030R/333216497607?epid=219521256&amp;hash=item4d95403fc7%3Ag%3A1bIAAOSwDuJW0vpw&amp;LH_BIN=1%7C1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSI-GeForce-GT710-2gb-DDR3-Fan-cooled-used-once/153508478957?hash=item23bdd17fed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38492" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11225" RevisionGUID="6e7665d8-e868-4de9-a43c-685895605d2a" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:58:08.793" UserId="1410" Text="As per [this question](https://opendata.stackexchange.com/questions/15329/free-source-of-ais-data-api/), I want to obtain [AIS ship tracking](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_identification_system) data worldwide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find a free source, but can find a website where all members pool their data. So, buying a very cheap AIS receiver could be a solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found one for about $250 on AliExpress - is there anything cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only requirement is cheapest (plus, can receive some kind of AIS data, of course)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38493" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11225" RevisionGUID="6e7665d8-e868-4de9-a43c-685895605d2a" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:58:08.793" UserId="1410" Text="Seeking the cheapest possible AIS receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38494" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11225" RevisionGUID="6e7665d8-e868-4de9-a43c-685895605d2a" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:58:08.793" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;ais&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38495" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11226" RevisionGUID="87d484b9-f1f9-4e33-b5d2-a5084dbbf0d0" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:59:34.943" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38496" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11226" RevisionGUID="87d484b9-f1f9-4e33-b5d2-a5084dbbf0d0" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:59:34.943" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11227" RevisionGUID="70b232b6-ee20-4487-a27b-25a8aa999421" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:59:34.943" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11227" RevisionGUID="70b232b6-ee20-4487-a27b-25a8aa999421" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:59:34.943" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38503" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11229" RevisionGUID="e80ca9ab-141d-4834-93b7-b3a16a10c44f" CreationDate="2019-05-31T23:40:27.717" UserId="12592" Text="I need very small form factor UPS, the smaller the better. The only requirement is it must have USB management interface so I am able to shutdown a PC gracefully..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38504" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11229" RevisionGUID="e80ca9ab-141d-4834-93b7-b3a16a10c44f" CreationDate="2019-05-31T23:40:27.717" UserId="12592" Text="Looking for smallest UPS available with management interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38505" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11229" RevisionGUID="e80ca9ab-141d-4834-93b7-b3a16a10c44f" CreationDate="2019-05-31T23:40:27.717" UserId="12592" Text="&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38514" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="274958f7-11b6-4fd2-b2a5-3aea2d1588c3" CreationDate="2019-06-01T03:04:45.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38515" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="a35e2101-f42e-4749-8b22-4ebad4084b4f" CreationDate="2019-06-01T13:02:30.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38516" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="6b23bab4-8f4a-486a-b83f-2139f42543fc" CreationDate="2019-06-01T14:02:06.400" UserId="12333" Comment="added 296 characters in body" Text="Over the next month, I want to upgrade/renew my setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current setup** is kind of old:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Mainboard:** EVGA Classified SR-X&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** 2x Xeon E5-2630 Hexa-Core @2,3GHz&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 20GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** INNO3D GeForce GTX 950, 2GB&#xD;&#xA;- **Drives:** 128GB SSD, 2x 1,5 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **Power Supply:** Xilence Modular Series ATX2.3&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU Cooler:** Scythe Mugen 3 Rev. B PCGH-Edition&#xD;&#xA;- **Case:** Lian Li PC-Z70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5.1 sound JACK cable connections on my mainboard are kind of broken, which doesn't matter to me much, because I use optical toslink cabel to plug in my headset. For internet connection, I use Wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for future setup**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, I aim for good performance in Gaming, 3D Graphics and Development. More specifically, I want to do 3D grafics including particle effects, interactive grooming, etc. Below, I try to sum up the most important Applications and Games that I focus on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Computer Graphics minimum requirements** &#xD;&#xA;(from [Autodesk][1], [Arnold Renderer Docs][3], [Allegorithmic Tech specs][4], [UE4 Docs][5]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit Intel® or AMD® multi-core processor with SSE4.2 instruction set, 2.5 GHz or faster&#xD;&#xA;- minimum 16 GB RAM, better 32 GB (for running multiple apps simultaniously)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU (from [Certified GPUs for Maya][2]): Geforce RTX 2080, RTX 2070 RTX 2060, TITAN V, TITAN X, GTX 1080, GTX 1070, GTX 1060, GTX 980, GTX 970, GTX 680, GTX 965M, GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;- CUDA™ Compute Capability 5.0&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GPU of the Turing, Volta, Pascal, or Maxwell architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Game requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do play RPGs most of the time. Games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Rise of the Tomb Raider, the upcoming This Land is my land, but also Division and Division 2, Forza Horizon 4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to sum up the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** &#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Intel Core i7 3.2Ghz or equivalent &#xD;&#xA;   - Forza Horizon 4: Intel i7-3820 @ 3.6Ghz&#xD;&#xA;   - Shadow of the Tomb Raider: Intel Core i7 4770K, 3.40 Ghz or AMD Ryzen 5 1600, 3.20 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;   - shadow of the tomb raider: at 2160p raytracing: RTX 2080 Ti&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 16GB &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will upgrade my GPU soon, probably to a RTX 2080 or even a 2080 Ti. But I don't know what to do about the rest of my setup. I'm a little bit afraid of buying everything new at once (because of the price), so I would prefer to buy the parts one by one over time, but end up with an up to date system anyway. :|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My mainboard seems to be very old. Would you recommend buying a new one? If so, what would you recommend? Can I use some of my old hardware on my new board until I have the money to buy new hardware or do I have to buy everything at once?&#xD;&#xA;- I'm thinking about addind a larger SSD, because I'm running out of memory on my 128GB SSD. Would you recommend M.2? If so, how would you introduce M.2 to my current or future setup? &#xD;&#xA;- As todays CPUs have many cores in one CPU, I assume that a dual socket setup is not really worth it, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;- most applications recommend 16 GB RAM. I want to work on one machine with multiple applications simultaniously. Of course I actually work only in one of them, but the others are running in the background. How much RAM do I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I use my old DDR3 RAM in a DDR4 mainboard til I can afford new RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I'd prefer to buy one piece after the other and upgrade my PC over time or save money and buy everything all together. So I'm quite flexible about money. Also, I'm looking for a PC that last the next 7-10 years and after that is still not too bad for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, I assume, 2k plus/minus 1k € is a good price for a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/maya/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-Autodesk-Maya-2019.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/sites/default/files/HardwareCertification_Maya_Arnold_MotionBuilder_Mudbox2019.1_v01.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://docs.arnoldrenderer.com/display/A5ARP/System+Requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.substance3d.com/products/tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://docs.unrealengine.com/en-US/GettingStarted/RecommendedSpecifications/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38520" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11215" RevisionGUID="60cb3c8e-0b7f-4317-824e-3976df8730c5" CreationDate="2019-06-01T17:59:36.977" UserId="12333" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="Over the next month, I want to upgrade/renew my setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My current setup** is kind of old:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Mainboard:** EVGA Classified SR-X&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** 2x Xeon E5-2630 Hexa-Core @2,3GHz&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 20GB DDR3&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:** INNO3D GeForce GTX 950, 2GB&#xD;&#xA;- **Drives:** 128GB SSD, 2x 1,5 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;- **Power Supply:** Xilence Modular Series ATX2.3&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU Cooler:** Scythe Mugen 3 Rev. B PCGH-Edition&#xD;&#xA;- **Case:** Lian Li PC-Z70&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 5.1 sound JACK cable connections on my mainboard are kind of broken, which doesn't matter to me much, because I use optical toslink cabel to plug in my headset. For internet connection, I use Wifi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for future setup**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, I aim for good performance in Gaming, 3D Graphics and Development. More specifically, I want to do 3D grafics including particle effects, interactive grooming, etc. Below, I try to sum up the most important Applications and Games that I focus on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Computer Graphics minimum requirements** &#xD;&#xA;(from [Autodesk][1], [Arnold Renderer Docs][3], [Allegorithmic Tech specs][4], [UE4 Docs][5]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 64-bit Intel® or AMD® multi-core processor with SSE4.2 instruction set, 2.5 GHz or faster&#xD;&#xA;- minimum 16 GB RAM, better 32 GB (for running multiple apps simultaniously)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU (from [Certified GPUs for Maya][2]): Geforce RTX 2080, RTX 2070 RTX 2060, TITAN V, TITAN X, GTX 1080, GTX 1070, GTX 1060, GTX 980, GTX 970, GTX 680, GTX 965M, GTX 980&#xD;&#xA;- CUDA™ Compute Capability 5.0&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GPU of the Turing, Volta, Pascal, or Maxwell architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Game requirements**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do play RPGs most of the time. Games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Rise of the Tomb Raider, the upcoming This Land is my land, but also Division and Division 2, Forza Horizon 4...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I try to sum up the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU:** &#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Intel Core i7 3.2Ghz or equivalent &#xD;&#xA;   - Forza Horizon 4: Intel i7-3820 @ 3.6Ghz&#xD;&#xA;   - Shadow of the Tomb Raider: Intel Core i7 4770K, 3.40 Ghz or AMD Ryzen 5 1600, 3.20 Ghz&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU:**&#xD;&#xA;   - This land is my land: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or equivalent&#xD;&#xA;   - shadow of the tomb raider: at 2160p raytracing: RTX 2080 Ti&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM:** 16GB &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will upgrade my GPU soon, probably to a RTX 2080 or even a 2080 Ti. But I don't know what to do about the rest of my setup. I'm a little bit afraid of buying everything new at once (because of the price), so I would prefer to buy the parts one by one over time, but end up with an up to date system anyway. :|&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My mainboard seems to be very old. Would you recommend buying a new one? If so, what would you recommend? Can I use some of my old hardware on my new board until I have the money to buy new hardware or do I have to buy everything at once?&#xD;&#xA;- I'm thinking about addind a larger SSD, because I'm running out of memory on my 128GB SSD. Would you recommend M.2? If so, how would you introduce M.2 to my current or future setup? &#xD;&#xA;- As todays CPUs have many cores in one CPU, I assume that a dual socket setup is not really worth it, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;- most applications recommend 16 GB RAM. I want to work on one machine with multiple applications simultaniously. Of course I actually work only in one of them, but the others are running in the background. How much RAM do I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I use my old DDR3 RAM in a DDR4 mainboard til I can afford new RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I said, I'd prefer to buy one piece after the other and upgrade my PC over time or save money and buy everything all together. So I'm quite flexible about money. Also, I'm looking for a PC that last the next 7-10 years and after that is still not too bad for gaming. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, I assume, 2k plus/minus 1k € is a good price for a computer. If I see a benefit, the price can go further up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/maya/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-Autodesk-Maya-2019.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/sites/default/files/HardwareCertification_Maya_Arnold_MotionBuilder_Mudbox2019.1_v01.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://docs.arnoldrenderer.com/display/A5ARP/System+Requirements&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.substance3d.com/products/tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://docs.unrealengine.com/en-US/GettingStarted/RecommendedSpecifications/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11234" RevisionGUID="bb005302-a66c-4fa4-bf55-01df064588fc" CreationDate="2019-06-02T10:40:57.177" UserId="12602" Text="I'm looking at buying a new laptop. I run Debian Linux as my primary operating system; however, I would like the option of booting up Windows 7 once in a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I be totally sure a machine will run Windows 7? I will have absolutely *no* opportunity to return it if it doesn't; I'll have to get it right the first time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, no comments about how Windows 7 is end of life, is not maintained, is not protected against the latest security exploits, is not the latest and greatest, or that anything it can do can be done in the current version as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I trust Windows 7 (sort of) and will *not* move on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38531" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11234" RevisionGUID="bb005302-a66c-4fa4-bf55-01df064588fc" CreationDate="2019-06-02T10:40:57.177" UserId="12602" Text="How can I be sure a new laptop will run Windows 7?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38532" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11234" RevisionGUID="bb005302-a66c-4fa4-bf55-01df064588fc" CreationDate="2019-06-02T10:40:57.177" UserId="12602" Text="&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38538" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11236" RevisionGUID="f004f1ea-58d7-44e8-8376-59663508e277" CreationDate="2019-06-02T21:13:58.900" UserId="12285" Text="You could do [some soldering][1] yourself, but I guess you will need some luck and/or experience. So if you don't want to experiment by soldering, I suggest you to use a USB hub with an extra power input, e.g. [TP-Link UH700][2]. Note, however, that it requires 12V DC input voltage, as opposed to USB's 5V DC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/218500/usb-charge-and-data-separate-cables/218508#218508&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/usb-hub/uh700/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="580c1158-3f7e-4319-9e01-b5340f3e51a5" CreationDate="2019-06-02T22:28:57.470" UserId="12604" Text="My laptop is a GL62M 7RDX.  The AC adapter says&#xD;&#xA;INPUT 100-240V ~1.8A 50-60Hz &#xD;&#xA;OUTPUT 19.5 v === 6.92 a 135W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering using the following power bank:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/MAXOAK-50000mAh-Portable-External-Notebook-Most/dp/B00YP823NA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=maxoak+50000+185wh+6&amp;qid=1559514481&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="580c1158-3f7e-4319-9e01-b5340f3e51a5" CreationDate="2019-06-02T22:28:57.470" UserId="12604" Text="Acceptable power bank for MSI gaming laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="580c1158-3f7e-4319-9e01-b5340f3e51a5" CreationDate="2019-06-02T22:28:57.470" UserId="12604" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11238" RevisionGUID="14118a90-c64f-4f29-b466-831e73420218" CreationDate="2019-06-03T02:28:00.483" UserId="5440" Text="You should basically look for something with a bit of an older CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is from the official [**Windows Processor Requirements**][1] page from Microsoft:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ***Intel Processors***       &#xD;&#xA;                                                                                                                                                                                        Up through the following 6th Generation Intel Processors (Intel Core&#xD;&#xA;&gt; i3/i5/i7-6xxx, Core m3/m5/m7-6xxx, and Xeon E3-xxxx v5), and through&#xD;&#xA;&gt; series equivalent Intel Atom, Celeron and Pentium Processors&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; ***AMD Processors***      &#xD;&#xA;        Up through the following AMD 6th Generation Processors (A-Series Ax-8xxx &amp; E-Series Ex-8xxx &amp; FX-870K)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                                                                       &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38547" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="41be473f-ba7d-4cc3-b282-06cf41640f75" CreationDate="2019-06-03T03:11:03.503" UserId="3800" Comment="change the content and add image for explain" Text="I would like to know what the height equivalence is, which should be taken into account for a 21: 9 monitor versus a 16: 9 monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![monitor size][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, a monitor 21: 9 of 24 &quot;, this one has less height than one of the same size in inches of one with format 16: 9.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![monitor size 2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PD:** *Remembering that the size is taken mainly by the diagonal*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nelcd.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH92N.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38548" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="41be473f-ba7d-4cc3-b282-06cf41640f75" CreationDate="2019-06-03T03:11:03.503" UserId="3800" Comment="change the content and add image for explain" Text="Equivalence in height between monitors 21:9 and 16:9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11242" RevisionGUID="c728da3d-560f-470e-8059-07556deb0949" CreationDate="2019-06-03T08:24:04.887" UserId="12517" Text="Okay, So I went ahead and bought the CPU, and honestly it runs just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Temps are around 25'C on idle, and up to 40'C in game. In a hot environment it goes up to 55, but have not seen it go any higher than that. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11180" RevisionGUID="1e5d5f0d-3cc5-4db2-b11c-c12abb64f601" CreationDate="2019-06-03T09:53:21.160" UserId="4495" Comment="formatting, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I am looking to acquire a Core i7 7700 (non k) in a week or so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI Radeon RX 570 4GB ARMOR OC Edition&#xD;&#xA;- MSI KRAIT B250 Motherboard&#xD;&#xA;- Pentium G4600 @ 3.6 GHz&#xD;&#xA;- Corsair H75 AIO Watercooler&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB DDR4 RAM @ 2133 MHz&#xD;&#xA;- 240GB Gigabyte SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 2 500GB Seagate HDDs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched online on forums, etc., but most of the sites are people asking about the 7700k variant. So my worry is that the H75 will not be strong enough to cool the 7700. Will I have to get a new CPU cooler or should it be strong enough? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38561" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11180" RevisionGUID="1e5d5f0d-3cc5-4db2-b11c-c12abb64f601" CreationDate="2019-06-03T09:53:21.160" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 12517 edit id of 877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="e2f7412d-a967-416a-a6e5-371ca89ccbd6" CreationDate="2019-06-03T13:53:45.313" UserId="4350" Text="I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop, and am looking for a power adapter with specific requirements. Here's what I'm after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Works on XPS 15 9550 (ir-6700HQ with 1080p screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - Works with EU (Dutch) Type F power sockets&#xD;&#xA;  - Can _at least_ support my laptop in &quot;Balanced&quot; power mode doing moderate development work (typically CPU usage &lt; 50%, no big GPU usage) while not _draining_ battery&#xD;&#xA;  - Can charge my laptop about from 10% to 80% when idling with screen off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it should allow me to at least continue working while on power, and start charging the battery if I leave my PC in idle mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Offer Powerbank features for charging a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;  - As light as possible (while still offering enough power per musthaves, above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Official Dell branded hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Powerbank supports QuickCharge through usb-c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering the PH45W17-CA (12800 mAh usb-c powerbank with 45W adapter), but am afraid that either it's incompatible with my model, or that the 45W is not enough to power and charge my laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38566" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="e2f7412d-a967-416a-a6e5-371ca89ccbd6" CreationDate="2019-06-03T13:53:45.313" UserId="4350" Text="Lightest possible adapter for Dell XPS with optional power bank features" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38567" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="e2f7412d-a967-416a-a6e5-371ca89ccbd6" CreationDate="2019-06-03T13:53:45.313" UserId="4350" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38569" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11203" RevisionGUID="852c01a1-b44d-4d76-b8dd-fdef47b56d49" CreationDate="2019-06-03T16:24:11.947" UserId="12559" Comment="I want to use the laptop for official tasks. and may have to use dual boot. in this case, what should I do?" Text="I have a Lenovo 320 laptop which has core i3 processor, 7th generation and 4GB RAM. Now for Programming what should I upgrade? Should I upgrade 4GB to 8GB or add 250GB SSD with 1TB HDD? I am really confused. Thanks in advance. I want to use the laptop for official tasks. and may have to use dual boot. in this case, what should I do?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38570" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11203" RevisionGUID="852c01a1-b44d-4d76-b8dd-fdef47b56d49" CreationDate="2019-06-03T16:24:11.947" Comment="Proposed by 12559 approved by 9526 edit id of 872" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11247" RevisionGUID="49f6cc90-ca9c-4959-8702-81658076e819" CreationDate="2019-06-03T18:06:17.803" UserId="12613" Text="I am starting a project which will control a small motor, some LED for illumination and read some analog sensors and I need to power it via a solar panel. I am looking for the best option on microcontroller to use but I don't know much about the topic. I need that such microcontroller have 2 analog inputs, 8 digital I/O, at least one interrupt pin, a 16 bit timer would help but an 8 bit also would do the job. The speed is not really an issue here but the power consumption is the thing that concerns me the most.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was watching some ESP32 and I like the fact that they have dual core and are low consumption but I won't use the WiFi module and I just feel that it would be a waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really appreciate suggestions, Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38575" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11247" RevisionGUID="49f6cc90-ca9c-4959-8702-81658076e819" CreationDate="2019-06-03T18:06:17.803" UserId="12613" Text="Best ultra low power microcontroller to run with solar panel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38576" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11247" RevisionGUID="49f6cc90-ca9c-4959-8702-81658076e819" CreationDate="2019-06-03T18:06:17.803" UserId="12613" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;solar-power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38577" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11248" RevisionGUID="5d80c24b-2589-465f-a119-6d6d1ee97e5c" CreationDate="2019-06-03T19:01:57.527" UserId="48" Text="Probably not... as you require 6.25 A and the supply can only give 5 A. However, I must admit that it looks interesting, if you had a laptop that required less than a 5 A supply. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should look for something that can supply at least 150 W, or 8-9 A, to be safe and have a nice margin for current/power spikes, and not burn out the supply. You *could* get a 20 V 7 A 140 W supply but it is a bit close to the maximum requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even better still, buy the correct adapter, either from the manufacturer (which would probably be rather pricey) or an OEM supply (which would be not so pricey, but just as good). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11250" RevisionGUID="1ca9f779-1555-414b-a817-dcb249e2b0ef" CreationDate="2019-06-03T20:02:06.257" UserId="48" Text="An ATmega328 has three timers, one of which, `Timer1`, is a 16 bit timer. The Arduino Uno and Nano both use an ATmega328.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you have a A4988 module, then an Arduino Uno with a CNC driver shield would be a simple option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Arduino Uno with CNC shield for A4988 drivers][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A smaller option would be an Arduino Nano with a CNC board:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nano with CNC board][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/71Kwk.jpg &quot;Arduino Uno with CNC shield for A4988 drivers&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKq4D.jpg &quot;Nano with CNC board&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38582" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11250" RevisionGUID="44c67bd4-c587-4490-bc5d-77877fe7ccca" CreationDate="2019-06-03T20:15:14.497" UserId="48" Comment="Added supply and charger (TP4056) suggestions " Text="An ATmega328 has three timers, one of which, `Timer1`, is a 16 bit timer. The Arduino Uno and Nano both use an ATmega328.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you say that you have a A4988 module, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![A4988 module][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;then an Arduino Uno with a CNC driver shield would be a simple option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Arduino Uno with CNC shield for A4988 drivers][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A smaller option would be an Arduino Nano with a CNC board:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nano with CNC board][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could power it via a LiPo, using a TP4056 module, which has *both* Battery (`B`) and Load (`OUT`) outputs - there are two types of modules out there, one of which does not not a load output. This is probably what you need&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![TP4056 modules with load][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your solar panel would connect to the `+` and `-` inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, you would use as many, or few, TP4056 modules as needed, depending on the voltage requirement of the µController. A NodeMCU µController would only need one LiPo and one TP4056, whereas an Arduino Nano/Uno would need two of each.  There are the Arduino Pro Micro and Pro Mini that only require 3 V which run at slower clock speeds, which would match your efficiency requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For use with a solar panel, see [How to autoregulate a TP4056 for maximum solar power extraction][5] for ideas about that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/drl4Z.jpg &quot;A4988 module&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/71Kwk.jpg &quot;Arduino Uno with CNC shield for A4988 drivers&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKq4D.jpg &quot;Nano with CNC board&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ga8Zl.jpg &quot;TP4056 modules with load&quot;&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/152931/how-to-autoregulate-a-tp4056-for-maximum-solar-power-extraction?rq=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11247" RevisionGUID="ad901fac-6761-483b-bcd4-f39e80efd7c3" CreationDate="2019-06-03T20:45:49.530" UserId="48" Comment="Minor fixes, removed thanks as per SE norms and added info from comments" Text="I am starting a project which will control a small motor, some LED for illumination and read some analog sensors and I need to power it via a solar panel. I am looking for the best option on microcontroller to use but I don't know much about the topic. I need that such microcontroller have 2 analog inputs, 8 digital I/O, at least one interrupt pin, a 16 bit timer would help but an 8 bit timer also would do the job. The speed is not really an issue here but the power consumption is the thing that concerns me the most.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was watching some ESP32 and I like the fact that they have dual core and are low consumption but I won't use the Wi-Fi module and I just feel that it would be a waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the motor I have a module A4988 Polulu where you just put the pin in low and high. I was thinking about more efficient microcontrollers than Arduino.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really appreciate suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38584" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11247" RevisionGUID="ad901fac-6761-483b-bcd4-f39e80efd7c3" CreationDate="2019-06-03T20:45:49.530" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 12613 edit id of 879" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="b95c50b5-538d-4aaf-9299-5a14c11c3f5d" CreationDate="2019-06-03T22:08:55.307" UserId="4350" Comment="added 186 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop, and am looking for a power adapter with specific requirements. Here's what I'm after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Works on XPS 15 9550 (ir-6700HQ with 1080p screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - Works with EU (Dutch) Type F power sockets&#xD;&#xA;  - Can _at least_ support my laptop in &quot;Balanced&quot; power mode doing moderate development work (typically CPU usage &lt; 50%, no big GPU usage) while not _draining_ battery&#xD;&#xA;  - Can charge my laptop about from 10% to 80% when idling with screen off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it should allow me to at least continue working while on power, and start charging the battery if I leave my PC in idle mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Offer Powerbank features for charging a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;  - As light as possible (while still offering enough power per musthaves, above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Official Dell branded hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Powerbank supports QuickCharge through usb-c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not too important: although I don't need a gold-plated or autographed device, I'm happy to pay a premium to get all functionalities in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering the PH45W17-CA (12800 mAh usb-c powerbank with 45W adapter), but am afraid that either it's incompatible with my model, or that the 45W is not enough to power and charge my laptop, failing to live up to the must-haves." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11251" RevisionGUID="501de35a-2f1b-4c92-b051-77dd63798eb6" CreationDate="2019-06-04T04:25:40.403" UserId="100" Text="#[LG 43UD79][1]#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a monitor/TV that supports 4 HDMI inputs. It can display a single input or all of them simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![LG 43UD79 4 input][2]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has multiple layout options and comes with a remote. There is a [video where you can see this feature in action](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42JvQnzOYSc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![LG 43UD79 4 input layouts and remote][3]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has been extensively reviewed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dave Lee](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vv1W0C920oE)&#xD;&#xA;- [Bitwit](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPrZzu2XcAU)&#xD;&#xA;- [Linus Tech Tips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kYrQ-LOiXE)&#xD;&#xA;- [Unbox Therapy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_7JKVuC9Bw)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-43UD79-B-4k-uhd-led-monitor&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/36FBG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJcFT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11254" RevisionGUID="fecea4c1-9d66-4f71-9383-c79685a25b0e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:25:10.497" UserId="6175" Text="This is the site you want and need :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://screendimensions.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11255" RevisionGUID="7296b208-4bb0-416c-affb-d6b3b6067f8b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:52:29.617" UserId="12620" Text="I want to write an app that assesses your reflexes. Basically it makes a sound you have to punch a target and the programme tells you your reaction time. I am not sure what to use for the target part. I was thinking of either a cheap mic as the sound of the impact would loud enough to be picked by the programme and that would the cue to stop the stop watch, or maybe an optical mouse same principle if you punch in front of the mouse the cursor will move and that is the signal for stopping the stop watch. &#xD;&#xA;Any ideas would be welcome, the system doesn't have to be perfect and can be a tiny bit makeshift. &#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11255" RevisionGUID="7296b208-4bb0-416c-affb-d6b3b6067f8b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:52:29.617" UserId="12620" Text="Connect a switch to my PC for a buzzer type of app" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11255" RevisionGUID="7296b208-4bb0-416c-affb-d6b3b6067f8b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:52:29.617" UserId="12620" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11227" RevisionGUID="5ca70ee0-dcb1-4699-b8f4-2c1563a165ca" CreationDate="2019-06-04T13:10:34.247" UserId="1410" Comment="added 369 characters in body" Text="The automatic identification system (AIS) is an automatic tracking system that uses transponders on ships and is used by vessel traffic services (VTS). When satellites are used to detect AIS signatures, the term Satellite-AIS (S-AIS) is used. AIS information supplements marine radar, which continues to be the primary method of collision avoidance for water transport." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38602" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11227" RevisionGUID="5ca70ee0-dcb1-4699-b8f4-2c1563a165ca" CreationDate="2019-06-04T13:10:34.247" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 57 edit id of 875" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38605" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="03283e85-2d21-4e8e-a69f-239de804202e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T13:10:54.553" UserId="48" Comment="Inlined the link and list formatting" Text="My laptop is a GL62M 7RDX.  The AC adapter says:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - INPUT 100-240V ~1.8A 50-60Hz &#xD;&#xA; - OUTPUT 19.5 V === 6.92 A a 135 W&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering using the following power bank: [MAXOAK 50000mAh 185wh 6 Port(5/12/20v) Portable Charger External Battery Power Bank for Laptop &amp; Notebook-Most of Sony Dell Hp Toshiba Samsung Lenovo Acer IBM NEC Mobile,Tablet(not for Apple Laptop)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.ca/MAXOAK-50000mAh-Portable-External-Notebook-Most/dp/B00YP823NA/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38606" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="03283e85-2d21-4e8e-a69f-239de804202e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T13:10:54.553" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 878" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11254" RevisionGUID="2ce0aa30-5cda-4742-b7be-02dd9cbe4a5c" CreationDate="2019-06-04T13:45:59.487" UserId="6175" Comment="added 347 characters in body" Text="This is the site you want and need :) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://screendimensions.com/&#xA;&#xA;You can add your own dimension in pixels, and the diagonal. &#xA;You then click in the plus sign, and it will add the screen you defined. You can do this multiple times, the tool will compare the screens. [![First screencap][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[![Second screencap][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1alra.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgljP.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11256" RevisionGUID="eb687389-31e2-48e6-bf65-6b1c3243be7e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T14:03:38.340" UserId="6175" Text="I found one on Amazon&#xA;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM&#xA;&#xA;It uses the power of both connectors to power the female connector. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38615" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11168" RevisionGUID="bd607587-e8ec-4c39-8187-8625bff8de1e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T18:31:45.457" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="fixed a couple of typos" Text="I would like to play around with ESP32, as I sense it might be the answer to my [previous question ]( https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/10368/off-the-shelf-cheap-wearable-bluetooth-low-energy-device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like something which is battery powered, can be extremely low powered, as battery life is my key concern (so, I imagine that I would be better off using BLE than WiFi (?))).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won’t be using any GPIO, although it might be nice to have for a display or development (possibly even for the final product, depending on the effect on battery life (the display would not be constantly active, only occasionally, as needed, maximum one minute per hour)). I suppose some sort of buzzer/vibrator wouldn’t hurt, but it’s “nice to have” at best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer programming in C (actually, I would prefer Ada, but that’s not likely), and could live with Python. A good IDE is a must have. In case of a tie,  support will play a role, as will price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be using it for tracking in an industrial setting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38616" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11168" RevisionGUID="bd607587-e8ec-4c39-8187-8625bff8de1e" CreationDate="2019-06-04T18:31:45.457" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 60 edit id of 880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="a1c406fa-5f83-4a8b-aa51-07ee7e6bfe1b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T23:47:50.677" UserId="12625" Text="[![M,y specs][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJxN3.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been meaning to upgrade my desktop though i am not sure what would be best. Though admitedly i have not kept up to date with hardware so i am completely green in regards to where my specs should be. Any help will be gratefully appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking to upgrade my desktop to the highest quality or anything near it, i am trying to give it a modest upgrade to catch up with what's out now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My uses are gaming; though this is at medium to high settings only. I am experiencing lag with my daily use and believe i may need to upgrade my ram." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38640" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="a1c406fa-5f83-4a8b-aa51-07ee7e6bfe1b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T23:47:50.677" UserId="12625" Text="Suggestioned upgrades for a old Dell Studio XPS 8100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38641" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="a1c406fa-5f83-4a8b-aa51-07ee7e6bfe1b" CreationDate="2019-06-04T23:47:50.677" UserId="12625" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11261" RevisionGUID="afd8524f-f029-488f-8e32-706b442935a8" CreationDate="2019-06-05T00:22:27.357" UserId="1921" Text="I would get a Raspberry Pi because it has GPIO pins.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then connect a Limit switch to a GPIO pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the person punches the target the limit switch will close and you can mark that down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The limit switch, of course, has to be placed behind the target." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11263" RevisionGUID="4a2f24b4-61ec-404a-9c86-3f2e2e95ab8a" CreationDate="2019-06-05T01:02:20.537" UserId="1921" Text="How about get a USB 3 to SATA adapter, and attach a 2.5&quot; SSD to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or this &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/M-2-External-Converter-Adapter-Enclosure/dp/B076DCNZM3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or this nvme version:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-EC-NVME-Aluminum-Enclosure-Nvme/dp/B07K4TZQ7D" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38652" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11194" RevisionGUID="42af4a63-2a2d-4815-993b-771f0d97d177" CreationDate="2019-06-05T04:54:44.290" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38656" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11237" RevisionGUID="1fe21664-2b4f-4d98-9cc2-8c0b4a56f257" CreationDate="2019-06-05T05:07:16.273" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38662" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="9e1c3d9e-3b5b-4996-90eb-93dfca6b80e7" CreationDate="2019-06-05T09:01:17.203" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="78df8856-9abe-49a1-a9ba-889cb66d823a" CreationDate="2019-06-05T13:23:58.087" UserId="12630" Text="I have been considering buying a new laptop and got puzzled regarding price differences between this two models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1)HP Envy 13-ah0042tu 2018 13.3-inch Laptop (8th Gen Intel Core i3-8130U/4GB/128GB/Windows 10 Home/Integrated Graphics), Natural Silver&#xD;&#xA;by HP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ₹ 56,990.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2)HP 14-inch Core i5 8th Gen FHD Laptop (8GB/1TB HDD/Win 10/Integrated Graphics/MS Office/Natural Silver/1.43 kg), 14s-cs1000tu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ₹ 47,990.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*The prices are as shown on amazon.in* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second model has greater hard disk space, more RAM (8GB compared to 4GB of the first model), has better procesor (i5 comapred to i3 of first model) and also larger screen size.&#xD;&#xA;Despite this it costs around 11000 lower than the first one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I missing in comparison between this two models? I am tempted to go for second model but cautious that I might miss something significant which I would have in first model (because of indication of price differences).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to understand this dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference to detailed product detailed price descriptions, I am sharing links of the models:&#xD;&#xA;1)https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07FGFCM3J/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_x4Q9CbDN5MSN1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2)https://www.amazon.in/HP-14-inch-Integrated-Graphics-14s-cs1000tu/dp/B07LDRVXKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_5&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38671" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="78df8856-9abe-49a1-a9ba-889cb66d823a" CreationDate="2019-06-05T13:23:58.087" UserId="12630" Text="Confusion regarding price difference in two hardwares" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38672" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="78df8856-9abe-49a1-a9ba-889cb66d823a" CreationDate="2019-06-05T13:23:58.087" UserId="12630" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38673" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="38ae0267-26a5-49dc-a210-c0aac713c7b9" CreationDate="2019-06-05T13:43:49.340" UserId="12630" Comment="edited title" Text="Confusion regarding price difference in two laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11269" RevisionGUID="7297d696-dd0a-4f56-ac96-7f471dc9d704" CreationDate="2019-06-05T14:00:53.440" UserId="4495" Text="One difference which immediately springs out is that the first model has a [Solid State Drive](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid-state_drive) (sized 128GB) while the second one has an 'old-fashioned' Hard Disk Drive. That one is as you noted, 8 times larger, but much cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The type of hard disk makes a huge difference these days. Exact figures will depend on what you're doing with the laptop, but [here](http://www.risharde.com/blog/windows-10-ssd-vs-normal-hard-disk-boot-times.html) is a random example where Windows 10 boots 3.5 times faster on an SSD than on an HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure if a 128GB is sufficient for your purposes, but personally I wouldn't buy a computer without an SSD anymore. Some laptop models might have room for a second hard drive, so that you can store large files (e.g. photos) on a separate drive, but I'm not sure how common that is these days and whether these models support it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38678" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="09d64296-91f3-4c00-a77b-8c87feadfbc6" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:02:25.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11271" RevisionGUID="c60adbe3-ce45-46a5-8403-584fe63b0a81" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:09:03.167" UserId="12635" Text="I would like to buy, HP Spectre x360 with intel i7 8565U, 16 gb RAM, 512gb ssd with intel uhd 620 but I am not sure If I will be able to run some app emulators for development, I will do some Programming and maybe some gaming as well but I am not intending to play games with intensive graphics like GTA5. Is it worth to buy, will it be enough?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11271" RevisionGUID="c60adbe3-ce45-46a5-8403-584fe63b0a81" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:09:03.167" UserId="12635" Text="Is i7 8565U, with 16 gb RAM, 512 SSD with intel uhd 620, only integrated good enough for Android studio?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11271" RevisionGUID="c60adbe3-ce45-46a5-8403-584fe63b0a81" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:09:03.167" UserId="12635" Text="&lt;video&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38682" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11272" RevisionGUID="742a78eb-c49b-4b0c-bf31-205fedb9ffa1" CreationDate="2019-06-05T19:57:18.827" UserId="12636" Text="That should be good enough. I have a slightly worse laptop (aside from GPU) and it can run more intensive things like a Windows virtual machine or Unity game engine without a problem, so you should be fine. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38683" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11219" RevisionGUID="d921a875-6331-42f1-b28c-a075b5f0b010" CreationDate="2019-06-05T20:44:19.470" UserId="9356" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a good microphone for recording speech (eg. for radio presenting), for about 60-70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a USB one but I'll look into all suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worth mention that I have a desktop but I don't have any external sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound must have quality so no background noise and if it can come with a micstand that's even better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A friend recommended me a [Blue Snowball Microphone](https://www.bluedesigns.com/products/snowball/) but already got 4 people saying otherwise because it breaks easily and I'm worried about that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Note: Similar [question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/169/good-cheap-microphone-for-speech-voice-recording). (2015)&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="c3167d05-bb68-41ab-aa36-384c47d0da4f" CreationDate="2019-06-05T21:42:52.070" UserId="4495" Comment="formatting, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I have been considering buying a new laptop and got puzzled regarding price differences between this two models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [HP Envy 13-ah0042tu 2018 13.3-inch Laptop (8th Gen Intel Core i3-8130U/4GB/128GB/Windows 10 Home/Integrated Graphics), Natural Silver&#xD;&#xA;by HP][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ₹ 56,990.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [HP 14-inch Core i5 8th Gen FHD Laptop (8GB/1TB HDD/Win 10/Integrated Graphics/MS Office/Natural Silver/1.43 kg), 14s-cs1000tu][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: ₹ 47,990.00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*The prices are as shown on amazon.in* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second model has greater hard disk space, more RAM (8GB compared to 4GB of the first model), has better processor (i5 comapred to i3 of first model) and also larger screen size.&#xD;&#xA;Despite this it costs around 11000 lower than the first one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What am I missing in comparison between this two models? I am tempted to go for the second model but cautious that I might miss something significant which I would have in first model (because of indication of price differences).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to understand this dilemma.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07FGFCM3J/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_x4Q9CbDN5MSN1&#xD;&#xA;[2]: https://www.amazon.in/HP-14-inch-Integrated-Graphics-14s-cs1000tu/dp/B07LDRVXKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_5&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38685" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="c3167d05-bb68-41ab-aa36-384c47d0da4f" CreationDate="2019-06-05T21:42:52.070" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 60 edit id of 881" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38687" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11256" RevisionGUID="111f1849-c7d6-48ff-a416-80cb9a1875da" CreationDate="2019-06-05T21:55:09.570" UserId="6175" Comment="added 257 characters in body" Text="I found one on Amazon, USB 2.0&#xA;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM&#xA;&#xA;This is a USB 3.0 cable in a Dutch site&#xA;https://www.allekabels.be/delock/6335/1196438/kabel-usb-3.0-y-buchse-1x-usb-3.0-a-st+-usb-2.0-a-st-30cm.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw0N3nBRBvEiwAHMwvNiELmJ4e7zvVidQi3--vmJy2_o6wK74odYDdFmhWO_mTEYECu8O4IBoCEmAQAvD_BwE&#xA;&#xA;It uses the power of both connectors to power the female connector. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38689" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11234" RevisionGUID="48da66a7-24b6-4ecb-9088-50f7f928553f" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:01:31.640" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38693" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="c1cfdd73-dd19-4174-9431-4d3e20dfe127" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:20:40.013" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38694" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11200" RevisionGUID="acaadcbb-0509-4b21-9008-c00cc08e4a2c" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:21:42.167" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38695" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11268" RevisionGUID="c1618178-4451-4eb7-80ec-b0e323491051" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:22:58.423" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="3d45f129-fd82-4f04-85a2-540f53189bfd" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:34:08.067" UserId="60" Comment="Added info from comments to the question. " Text="[![M,y specs][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJxN3.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been meaning to upgrade my desktop though i am not sure what would be best. Though admittedly i have not kept up to date with hardware so i am completely green in regards to where my specs should be. Any help will be gratefully appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking to upgrade my desktop to the highest quality or anything near it, i am trying to give it a modest upgrade to catch up with what's out now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My uses are gaming; though this is at medium to high settings only. I am experiencing lag with my daily use and believe i may need to upgrade my ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am experiencing them when i play dota 2 or league of legends while having my browser open, the number of tabs open seems not to matter much more do that i have the browser open. I also get them when i load the computer up and use it for my work related programs such as Microsoft powerbi. Though the whole pc seems to be slow now regardless of what i do. I am currently ruining windows 7 home premium. And my performance usually has my physical memory at 60% or above, my cpu seems to vary from 50 to 20 depending on what i am doing. I may need to scrutinize it more. My budget is around $700." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38701" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="11260" RevisionGUID="9e23ce80-b39b-47c4-b529-9b4e4a0d3754" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:35:05.907" UserId="60" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38730" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11256" RevisionGUID="620ea8a4-2132-4f5e-91bb-4e16c4badeb4" CreationDate="2019-06-06T10:13:46.550" UserId="6175" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="I found one on Amazon, USB 2.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a USB 3.0 cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/black-tekit-0-66ft-usb-3-0-male-to-dual-usb-female-extra-power-data-y-extension-cable-for-2-5-mobil/p/181-002E-00083?Description=usb%203.0%20y%20cable&amp;cm_re=usb_3.0_y_cable-_-9SIA50M61W5711-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It uses the power of both connectors to power the female connector. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38735" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="71771e37-7847-4861-80a7-8497c80b7ddb" CreationDate="2019-06-06T15:02:50.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11275" RevisionGUID="dba260dd-c247-4c6c-bad4-dbf6ccf5957a" CreationDate="2019-06-06T17:47:17.250" UserId="12641" Text="I am planning to purchase 4th generation Intel® Core™ i7-4600U 2.10GHz 2.70GHz model. Also, I am thinking of latest version of 8th generation if it has lot of performance difference. Regarding this I have 2 questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What is the performance difference between Intel i7 4th generation with 8th generation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. What is the meaning of 2.10GHz 2.70GHz. Is it related to speed or something else?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Guide me whether **intel i7 4th generation** is it sufficient enough or **8th generation** is better? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note: Main usage is Python programming for data science point of purpose, not for graphical and gaming related purpose.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38737" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11275" RevisionGUID="dba260dd-c247-4c6c-bad4-dbf6ccf5957a" CreationDate="2019-06-06T17:47:17.250" UserId="12641" Text="[Laptop]: what is the performance difference between intel i7 4th generation with 8th generation laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38738" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11275" RevisionGUID="dba260dd-c247-4c6c-bad4-dbf6ccf5957a" CreationDate="2019-06-06T17:47:17.250" UserId="12641" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11276" RevisionGUID="5c48b92e-8595-4b97-b7d1-401485b1c0c3" CreationDate="2019-06-06T21:31:06.693" UserId="12643" Text="I currently own an old pc with 2gb ram, i3 2100 and with no gpu. So i am thinking to upgrade it to i5 2500k or i7 2700k with 16 gb ram, nvidia 710 2 gb vram and 320 gb ssd Will it be enough to carry out my programming and android studio needs ? &#xD;&#xA;Help me to choose the best in budget and **will this upgrade be any worth or not ??** And tell me whether i will need dedicated gpu or not" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38740" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11276" RevisionGUID="5c48b92e-8595-4b97-b7d1-401485b1c0c3" CreationDate="2019-06-06T21:31:06.693" UserId="12643" Text="Should I switch from intel core i3 2100 to i5 2500k or i7 2770k for easy working in android studio in 2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38741" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11276" RevisionGUID="5c48b92e-8595-4b97-b7d1-401485b1c0c3" CreationDate="2019-06-06T21:31:06.693" UserId="12643" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11277" RevisionGUID="422cf1cc-4653-4296-8081-3beefd300d83" CreationDate="2019-06-06T21:48:45.167" UserId="12643" Text="Well if your budget allows you to upgrade to i7 8th gen then i will recommend you to go for it. But this does not mean that i7 4th gen is troublesome it's one of the good processors till today and for programming it won't be any trouble so if you want you can easily carry out your work on i7 4th gen. &#xD;&#xA;2.10 GHz is meant for processor's clock speed with which it processes data." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11278" RevisionGUID="eea41401-2e8f-442d-bb4f-fb94e1acba3d" CreationDate="2019-06-06T21:52:51.633" UserId="12643" Text=" if you are using emulator, it will get better performance if you have a dedicated GPU... Its Good to have one, but its not a requirement, modern intel UHD graphics should be sufficient. ... Android app development doesn't require much of a GPU... but i always recommend to go for gaming laptops because they are specially designed for speed and high processing capabilities. Well HP spectre x360 is also among the best laptops on which you can rely blindly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11280" RevisionGUID="2a089a8d-3cc6-47bf-a998-47fdd45ba8b1" CreationDate="2019-06-06T22:47:11.997" UserId="12644" Text="Most of the size and weight of a classic UPS is the lead-acid gel-cell in it. That battery determines the maximum current and runtimes the UPS can deliver, So you can't spec a UPS until you know your power and runtime constraints. Further, the circuitry to turn the battery's DC into (slightly) clean mains AC is inherently wasteful, twice so since all modern electronics internally require DC voltages, meaning there's a second wasteful conversion back to DC voltage(s) in the PC's power supply. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current solution for keeping low-power computers alive without mains power is to power them directly from one or more lithium cells which are continuously charged from mains power. If you're running something like a RaspberryPi, it's easy to simply watch the battery voltage, when it drops below ... say 3.5 volts for a single cell, the Pi can trigger a shutdown. (Restarting after power returns has been left as an exercise for the student. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have a look here: [Power Supply comparison][1] You're interested in the column labelled 'Interface', and you'll want devices with serial or USB interfaces if you're trying to connect a laptop or small desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://elinux.org/Comparison_of_power_supply_%26_management_hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11280" RevisionGUID="2fd486e9-d331-4856-a758-a7fafa7681bb" CreationDate="2019-06-06T22:58:17.630" UserId="12644" Comment="added 222 characters in body" Text="Most of the size and weight of a classic UPS is the lead-acid gel-cell in it. That battery determines the maximum current and runtimes the UPS can deliver, So you can't spec a UPS until you know your power and runtime constraints. Further, the circuitry to turn the battery's DC into (slightly) clean mains AC is inherently wasteful, twice so since all modern electronics internally require DC voltages, meaning there's a second wasteful conversion back to DC voltage(s) in the PC's power supply. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current solution for keeping low-power computers alive without mains power is to power them directly from one or more lithium cells which are continuously charged from mains power. If you're running something like a RaspberryPi, it's easy to simply watch the battery voltage, when it drops below ... say 3.5 volts for a single cell, the Pi can trigger a shutdown. (Restarting after power returns has been left as an exercise for the student. :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have a look here: [Power Supply comparison][1] You're interested in the column labelled 'Interface', and you'll want devices with serial or USB interfaces if you're trying to connect a laptop or small desktop. The mini-box products come closest to a complete out-of-box solution for your task, but seem overpriced, especially since the cells ore not included. OTOH, perhaps their kit is exceptionally well made and worth the price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://elinux.org/Comparison_of_power_supply_%26_management_hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11281" RevisionGUID="9150a44c-fcaa-433c-9625-3ab369f83351" CreationDate="2019-06-06T23:07:00.447" UserId="12644" Text="I agree with Daniele re the performance advantage of SSDs, but specifically, lots of fast RAM is the single most important component for running VMs. If you can't fit all your systems in RAM at once, they'll be bogged down with swapping, no matter how fast your SSD. Conversely if you've lots of excess RAM, boots will be slower from spinning disks, but subsequent disk caching may well improve performance beyond what's available from SSDs in a RAM starved machine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11286" RevisionGUID="ee1dd5e4-177b-4825-a3c4-03aa5a8db64d" CreationDate="2019-06-07T07:28:18.747" UserId="12517" Text="This upgrade will definitely be worth it. The gpu isn't the most demanding part though. The 16gb ram and the i7 will definitely be worth it. A lot of cores/threads is probably the most important as the studio is quite taxing on resources. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11289" RevisionGUID="faeba733-ce51-40ed-b582-01152f4f9577" CreationDate="2019-06-07T16:26:15.943" UserId="12656" Text="I am currently student and I wanted to buy budget laptop with relative strong performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1 year ago I bought Lenovo 320 ideapad 8GB ram, intel 8th gen. I used it only for programming, browsing internet, but on full battery he can work about ~1.5h to ~2.5h. When I am on my faculty, I need to have at least 4 hours to making notes in tex and other stuff and don't worry that on each break between lectures I need to find socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am asking you, how can I improve battery life? Is there any option to replace my battery with another one to have 2x more capacity?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if it matters but I use system Xubuntu." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38777" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11289" RevisionGUID="faeba733-ce51-40ed-b582-01152f4f9577" CreationDate="2019-06-07T16:26:15.943" UserId="12656" Text="Lenovo 320 - Improve battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38778" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11289" RevisionGUID="faeba733-ce51-40ed-b582-01152f4f9577" CreationDate="2019-06-07T16:26:15.943" UserId="12656" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11291" RevisionGUID="52b85bbd-29e0-4f9a-ad55-020158109107" CreationDate="2019-06-07T17:51:45.667" UserId="12658" Text="As mentioned above already, I want to buy a Ducky One 2 TKL RGB keyboard to use in the office. I am a software developer and type fast and I press the buttons quiet hard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which Cherry MX switches would you recommend for office use ? It should be not to noisy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also like the clicky sound, is there a switch that is clicky and not noisy ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bests" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11291" RevisionGUID="52b85bbd-29e0-4f9a-ad55-020158109107" CreationDate="2019-06-07T17:51:45.667" UserId="12658" Text="I want a Ducky One 2 TKL Keyboard for Office use. But which Cherry MX switches should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11291" RevisionGUID="52b85bbd-29e0-4f9a-ad55-020158109107" CreationDate="2019-06-07T17:51:45.667" UserId="12658" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38789" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11069" RevisionGUID="025ad372-4e76-4c9a-be8b-f9b85d33ea2a" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:01:28.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38790" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11292" RevisionGUID="d760484c-4047-43d1-a5a3-4c0b6ff344bc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:48:43.643" UserId="9825" Text="I am planning to move an [Asus M5A78L-M/USB3][1] and its [FX-6350][2] CPU (default TDP 125W, max temp 61C) into a new chassis with a GeForce 1070 and a 680W power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at a series of CPU coolers from BeQuiet! ranging from 125W to 250W. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I really dial that motherboard up, What's the maximum power consumption of that CPU if highly overclocked, so I can determine how much cooling would be needed on that CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/fx-6350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38791" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11292" RevisionGUID="d760484c-4047-43d1-a5a3-4c0b6ff344bc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:48:43.643" UserId="9825" Text="How much heat would an AMD FX-6350 emit if overclocked?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38792" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11292" RevisionGUID="d760484c-4047-43d1-a5a3-4c0b6ff344bc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:48:43.643" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38793" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11293" RevisionGUID="840cbed8-edb9-40f9-8d6c-fb3f50602ed7" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:49:11.643" UserId="10648" Text="There is a breakdown of all of the genuine Cherry MX switches in [this wiki article][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Blue switches are very common and make the distinct clicking noise as you type. It is up to personal opinion whether the noise is too loud; I would be annoyed if the person beside me used a keyboard with MX Blue switches all day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX White and MX Green are variations of the MX Blue that require more force. These  are probably harder to find in stock at a local retailer because they don't seem to be as popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want the same tactile feedback as MX Blue without the clicking noise you should go for MX Brown.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Likewise for MX Blue, there are also Clear and Gray switches which require more force.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also several other brands of mechanical switches which could offer something in the sweet spot between MX Blue and MX Brown, but your question asks for Cherry MX switches only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_(keyboards)#Cherry_MX_switches_in_consumer_keyboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38794" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11294" RevisionGUID="ac80503b-319d-4c8c-b4eb-84006b5246c2" CreationDate="2019-06-07T21:00:05.097" UserId="10648" Text="According to the [ASUS website][1], the board only supports a max of 140W so in theory your cooler doesn't need to be any better than that anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, that motherboard doesn't really have the VRMs required for significant and reliable overlocking. You *can* do it, but the lack of heat sinks on the VRMs and it only being a 4+1 design is likely going to hold you back from getting the most out of your CPU. Overclocking reviews for that board don't look so great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38795" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11292" RevisionGUID="5b844200-ba62-4b91-9bbc-010288c965fd" CreationDate="2019-06-07T21:15:05.530" UserId="9825" Comment="added 303 characters in body" Text="I am planning to move an [Asus M5A78L-M/USB3][1] and its [FX-6350][2] CPU (default TDP 125W, max temp 61C) into a new chassis with a GeForce 1070 and a 680W power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at a series of CPU coolers from BeQuiet! ranging from 125W to 250W. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I really dial that motherboard up, What's the maximum power consumption of that CPU if highly overclocked, so I can determine how much cooling would be needed on that CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, [where on that board][3] are the Voltage Regulators, so I can heatsink and fan-cool those for greater stability?  The circled yellow area? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![ ][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/fx-6350&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/media/global/products/2TinR0vmf3nCJ2GF/0C1MQvukzDOj3GQg_500.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlhXX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38798" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11275" RevisionGUID="fa763b77-41ed-4fd4-a475-f4d7058f791a" CreationDate="2019-06-07T21:58:56.007" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38799" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11271" RevisionGUID="0b0b2c17-b12f-499d-b35c-d6adb9276e3a" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:02:14.567" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="38800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11295" RevisionGUID="177f6506-22a1-4ec3-a43f-f2581edd3efc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:06:59.097" UserId="12659" Text="I'm getting started with some light IoT at my workplace.  My requirement is to control several light switches/dimmers through C#.  There is a lot of IoT information out there and ZigBee looks promising.  DOes anyone have any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38801" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11295" RevisionGUID="177f6506-22a1-4ec3-a43f-f2581edd3efc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:06:59.097" UserId="12659" Text="IoT Light Switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38802" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11295" RevisionGUID="177f6506-22a1-4ec3-a43f-f2581edd3efc" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:06:59.097" UserId="12659" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11292" RevisionGUID="c8785307-b547-474d-8503-d4bc1f59da4d" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:43:51.623" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 168 characters in body" Text="I am planning to move an [Asus M5A78L-M/USB3][1] and its [FX-6350][2] CPU (default TDP 125W, max temp 61C) into a new chassis with a GeForce 1070 and a 680W power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at a series of CPU coolers from BeQuiet! ranging from 125W to 250W. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I really dial that motherboard up, What's the maximum power consumption of that CPU if highly overclocked, so I can determine how much cooling would be needed on that CPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/fx-6350&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/media/global/products/2TinR0vmf3nCJ2GF/0C1MQvukzDOj3GQg_500.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlhXX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11296" RevisionGUID="601f68cb-12a9-43bd-a936-318ca05dfbc2" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:46:55.470" UserId="9825" Text="I am planning to move an [Asus M5A78L-M/USB3][1] and its [FX-6350][2] CPU (default TDP 125W, max temp 61C) into a new chassis with a GeForce 1070 and a 680W power supply, but based on remarks here and elsewhere, I am concerned about the need to cool the Voltage Regulation Modules better than passive convection would provide. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;[Where on that board][3] are the Voltage Regulators, so I can heatsink and fan-cool those for greater stability?  The circled yellow area? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![ ][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/fx-6350&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/media/global/products/2TinR0vmf3nCJ2GF/0C1MQvukzDOj3GQg_500.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlhXX.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11296" RevisionGUID="601f68cb-12a9-43bd-a936-318ca05dfbc2" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:46:55.470" UserId="9825" Text="Where are VRMs on this Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11296" RevisionGUID="601f68cb-12a9-43bd-a936-318ca05dfbc2" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:46:55.470" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38812" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="6d0e6667-248f-4c14-86e8-790575c8d7fd" CreationDate="2019-06-08T02:01:45.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38815" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="75ffca3e-5714-44fb-b10d-14d74f8e110c" CreationDate="2019-06-08T03:02:55.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38816" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10486" RevisionGUID="503ba13e-8d92-4638-95c6-f3140e7489eb" CreationDate="2019-06-08T09:14:41.043" UserId="2292" Comment="Added note about memory speed." Text="I went for an Acer Predator Helios 500 with an AMD Ryzen 2700 8 core processor, 512GB SSD and 1TB normal hard drive. The processor is socketed, so could theoretically be upgraded later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be upgraded to 4x16GB RAM if the 2 factory fitted 8GB RAM modules are replaced, as they are single rank, but 16GB modules appear to be double rank and they are not compatible. Note that the bus speed may go down if mounting more / different modules.&#xD;&#xA;(If you do this, note that the first two slots are not user-accessible.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For anybody interested, the cost was €1927 plus ~€285 for extra RAM plus €20 to switch the modules. Hopefully I can sell the old RAM modules for €80 or more. So approx. €2150 with 32GB of RAM - I now just need to get another SODIMM or two." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="bd2f1da1-5a8e-4994-88f1-4381f950ef37" CreationDate="2019-06-08T19:02:59.557" UserId="12666" Text="I want to buy a new business laptop where i want to install ubuntu 18.04 as OS with following characterists:&#xD;&#xA;- price up to 2000 €&#xD;&#xA;- i want to use 2 external monitors (must have)&#xD;&#xA;- touchable display (must have)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have you some recommendations for me? And some experiences, because i read in some articles with driver problems when using a docking station for 2 external monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanxs in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38828" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="bd2f1da1-5a8e-4994-88f1-4381f950ef37" CreationDate="2019-06-08T19:02:59.557" UserId="12666" Text="recommendation of business laptop with OS ubuntu 18.04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38829" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="bd2f1da1-5a8e-4994-88f1-4381f950ef37" CreationDate="2019-06-08T19:02:59.557" UserId="12666" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38831" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="d77abca8-345a-40d6-9b0d-3ab2d64dae18" CreationDate="2019-06-09T00:03:45.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38835" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="c2133fe9-fdd6-4a1f-8531-30d8790fef9c" CreationDate="2019-06-10T11:04:22.577" UserId="10878" Text="I have been reading a lot of things in the internet today about power supplies and I still cannot come to a conclusion on what exact PSU should I buy. The image below shows what I think is my power needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.) There are several power supplies that have, for instance, 500w, but the price range varies hugely where there are more expensive power supplies with lower wattage than the cheaper ones. Isn't the wattage the main thing that most people refer to when buying a PSU for their PC needs? Why do I need to consider 80 bronze vs 80 gold? Full modular vs not? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[80 Bronze]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic ECO PLUS 500, 500 watts - $43.78&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic ECO PLUS 600, 600 watts - $51.27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12II, 520 watts - $58.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12II, 620 watts - $68.94&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic M12II, 520 watts, Full modular - $68.94&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic M12II Evo, 620 watts, Full modular - $77.19 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[80 Gold]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12G, 550 watts - $77.19&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.) What is the cheapest possible PSU I can get without the risk of destroying my RX 570 GPU or any other components in my computer? I do not want any super high quality power supply that is expensive or anything that will end up destroying my components. Can I use an old (10 years old), generic, working PSU (my current one) that is like $10-$15 cheap that has 600w, but combine it with a surge protector and not risk my components from being fried? I only had a built in GPU in my motherboard until now where I plan to buy the RX 570. So I never had large power needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3.) What is an affordable and/or best way to make my computer's components robust from being destroyed? Such as a power surge and etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JUYY.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38836" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="c2133fe9-fdd6-4a1f-8531-30d8790fef9c" CreationDate="2019-06-10T11:04:22.577" UserId="10878" Text="What is the most affordable PSU for my requirements?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38837" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="c2133fe9-fdd6-4a1f-8531-30d8790fef9c" CreationDate="2019-06-10T11:04:22.577" UserId="10878" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38838" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11305" RevisionGUID="4cb4f072-b9ca-4757-9e43-f1a18ffc1c2d" CreationDate="2019-06-10T12:08:15.120" UserId="12517" Text="Okay, so firstly, the difference between expensive and cheap PSU's that give out the same wattage can be a few things. There can be a difference on the 12v rail, it can be about the bronze/silver/gold/platinum rating. Basically the different ratings show different levels of reliability towards being able to constantly supply 500w for instance. I'd say there are a few PSU brands that I would stay away from, e.g Raidmax,  but Superflower and Corsair are mostly good, safe choices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, I would advise you to never cheap out on a power supply. I have seen way too many computer's die because of someone wanting to save a buck. I'd buy at least a silver rated PSU. And age also does have an effect. 10 years old? I'd stay away from that. Rather buy a 450w/550w PSU. The EVGA one in the image you supplied is perfect. If you want a cheaper option, go for the Superflower equivalent. Modularity, this is more focused on customisability. To give an example, a fully modular PSU you only have to use the cables that you need, i.e. no need for a second 6-pin cable to dangle next to the GPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Buying well known and trustworthy brands. Do not overclock, and if you do, have decent cooling. Heck, have decent cooling in general. As power surging go, buy a surge protector. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38839" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11236" RevisionGUID="b846998c-1545-4b4f-8f5c-bdfdbe1a1989" CreationDate="2019-06-10T20:01:10.940" UserId="12285" Comment="improved DIY section" Text="A quite experimental solution would be a DIY one (see below), but you will need some experience and maybe even some luck. As a less experimental solution I suggest you to use a USB hub with an extra power input, e.g. [TP-Link UH700][1]. Note, however, that it requires 12V DC input voltage, as opposed to USB's 5V DC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DIY possibilities** (experimental / ”danger zone“)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* perform [some cable stripping and soldering][2]&#xD;&#xA;* or use a ”data+power &amp; power-only“ Y cable as [the one][3] suggested by *Houbie* and [cut the +5V wire][4] of the ”data+power“ part of the cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly suspect those DIY ways not to work with all USB devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/usb-hub/uh700/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/218500/usb-charge-and-data-separate-cables/218508#218508&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/p/181-002E-00083&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Data-Only-USB-Type-B/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11236" RevisionGUID="9d81e60f-2fe7-4efd-8605-bbdfb38decaa" CreationDate="2019-06-10T20:48:36.047" UserId="12285" Comment="add 5V usb hub" Text="A quite experimental solution would be a DIY one (see below), but you will need some experience and maybe even some luck. As a less experimental solution I suggest you to use an **USB hub with an extra power input**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Examples:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Anker AK-A7518113][1]: 5V DC input voltage&#xD;&#xA;* [TP-Link UH700][3]: 12V DC input voltage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DIY possibilities** (experimental / ”danger zone“)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* perform [some cable stripping and soldering][4]&#xD;&#xA;* or use a ”data+power &amp; power-only“ Y cable as [the one][5] suggested by *Houbie* and [cut the +5V wire][6] of the ”data+power“ part of the cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I highly suspect those DIY ways not to work with all USB devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anker.com/products/variant/4port-ultra-slim-usb-30-hub/A7518113&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/usb-hub/uh700/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/218500/usb-charge-and-data-separate-cables/218508#218508&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/p/181-002E-00083&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Data-Only-USB-Type-B/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38842" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11083" RevisionGUID="5a63fbae-70c6-424a-a2f7-46a1ca73c5c2" CreationDate="2019-06-11T06:04:20.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="38843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11306" RevisionGUID="d7761dbc-1b66-4746-99fd-1cdcd7d5fa24" CreationDate="2019-06-11T06:51:17.283" UserId="1410" Text="I am answering my own question, in case it is of any interest to others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For development, I have found an excellent and extremely cheap solution. In  fact, it could probably be used in non-profits. Only for a commercial product would I need to have something custom manufactured, as I can't find a COTS solution (needs to be smaller, more rugged, with a better battery).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for US $14.90, plus postage, I found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[M5Stack Multi-function Watch! With 700mAh Battery for Arduino &amp; Micropython ESP32 Core Intelligent Programmable Watch with Band](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-700mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-ESP32-Core-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's slightly chunky, and I don't like only having a 700 mAH battery (but the ESP32 has great power management), but it's more than good enough for development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hmmm, the [Google cached version](https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:dJH6kzd8PKgJ:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-ESP32-and-850mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html+&amp;cd=2&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;gl=uk&amp;client=firefox-b-ab) of the page shows it as costing less ($10.70), with a batter (850 mAH) battery. Strange days indeed!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also,[this one](http://forum.m5stack.com/topic/548/m5stick-watch) looks smaller, with a better form factor. I will have to enquire where to but it &amp; update this answer.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXPnr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEZA5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2s0J.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38844" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11307" RevisionGUID="ca671723-f605-41cf-b61b-76dfe6f8bfd1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T07:20:13.657" UserId="12674" Text="Other than one of the Nest models, are there any other WiFi doorbells which interface to a physical bell (as well as phones)? Obviously, there is the DIY option, but that is not what I'm asking about here (even if it might be reasonably trivial)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38845" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11307" RevisionGUID="ca671723-f605-41cf-b61b-76dfe6f8bfd1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T07:20:13.657" UserId="12674" Text="Hardwired WiFi Doorbells" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38846" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11307" RevisionGUID="ca671723-f605-41cf-b61b-76dfe6f8bfd1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T07:20:13.657" UserId="12674" Text="&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="1fe8a17d-82e6-4122-b93e-d2c2e512c899" CreationDate="2019-06-11T12:11:07.040" UserId="12678" Text="I'm pretty new to implementing this Ethernet stuf..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;So, is there anyone who can recommend an Ethernet switch (3 port, 2 0ut and 1 for stm32) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that you can use a W3150A + and then use the Microchip LAN9303 Ethernet switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but it doesn't seem very smart &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am very fond of how much work to do on the software part, if I can use the Ethernet library that is delivered from ST (cubeMx) that will be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards&#xD;&#xA;SPA..&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="1fe8a17d-82e6-4122-b93e-d2c2e512c899" CreationDate="2019-06-11T12:11:07.040" UserId="12678" Text="STM32 Ethernet switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="1fe8a17d-82e6-4122-b93e-d2c2e512c899" CreationDate="2019-06-11T12:11:07.040" UserId="12678" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11311" RevisionGUID="9f4ae8aa-d478-4f9d-9e4f-c24b946f4fcf" CreationDate="2019-06-11T13:24:18.393" UserId="57" Text="The [Ring Pro](https://shop.ring.com/products/video-doorbell-pro) is a hard wired doorbell, much like Nest's product. It retails for around $250. It also does 1080p video and has motion detection capabilities. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I assume you already have a hardwired doorbell, since you asked for that specifically, but if not and you are thinking of running wires, Ring also has the [Elite](https://shop.ring.com/products/video-doorbell-elite) line which uses power over ethernet. It retails for $500. The advantage here is that you don't have to worry about wireless coverage of your doorbell (at the price of double the cost) because it's plugged directly into your switch and providing power. Your switch does need to provide power over ethernet for this to work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ring also has battery powered doorbells - the [Doorbell](https://shop.ring.com/products/video-doorbell) and [Doorbell 2](https://shop.ring.com/products/video-doorbell-2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A word of warning, depending on your geographic location, such a doorbell may not be a great idea. The Ring products claim they only work between -5°F to 120°F (-20.5°C to 48.5°C) while the Nest products offer 5˚F to 104˚F(-15˚C to 40˚C). The low range may be a problem in the winter - and with the Nest there are some areas where the high is common multiple days in the summer. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11306" RevisionGUID="4ff800db-c99c-4b30-ad26-c3cc6bcdecf7" CreationDate="2019-06-11T15:09:37.180" UserId="1410" Comment="added 963 characters in body" Text="I am answering my own question, in case it is of any interest to others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For development, I have found an excellent and extremely cheap solution. In  fact, it could probably be used in non-profits. Only for a commercial product would I need to have something custom manufactured, as I can't find a COTS solution (needs to be smaller, more rugged, with a better battery).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for US $14.90, plus postage, I found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[M5Stack Multi-function Watch! With 700mAh Battery for Arduino &amp; Micropython ESP32 Core Intelligent Programmable Watch with Band](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-700mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-ESP32-Core-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's slightly chunky, and I don't like only having a 700 mAH battery (but the ESP32 has great power management), but it's more than good enough for development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hmmm, the [Google cached version](https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:dJH6kzd8PKgJ:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-ESP32-and-850mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html+&amp;cd=2&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;gl=uk&amp;client=firefox-b-ab) of the page shows it as costing less ($10.70), with a batter (850 mAH) battery. Strange days indeed!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also,[this one](http://forum.m5stack.com/topic/548/m5stick-watch) looks smaller, with a better form factor. I will have to enquire where to but it &amp; update this answer.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update]  from forum.m5stack.com/topic/548/m5stick-watch/9&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the original stick can be purchased via the following links:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/M5Stack-Official-New-M5Stick-Mini-Development-Kit-ESP32-1-3-OLED-80mAh-Battery-Inside-Buzzer-IR/3226069_32994893797.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.13.25ba781bqWZV2X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://m5stack.com/collections/m5-core/products/m5stack-official-new-m5stick-mini-development-kit-esp32-1-3oled-80mah-battery-inside-buzzer-ir-transmitter-mpu9250-optional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The main differences between the stick and stick c are that the stick c has a smaller screen but it is color opposed to the monochrome oled of the original, the power management chip is different, there are a bunch more sensors added etc.. for a detailed comparison you can check the docs pages for both the stick and the stick c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://docs.m5stack.com/#/en/core/m5stick&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://docs.m5stack.com/#/en/core/m5stickc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also costs sub $15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXPnr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEZA5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2s0J.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="e53c67b4-33b6-4389-a0b8-5a56ff43643d" CreationDate="2019-06-11T16:19:20.707" UserId="12680" Text="I need to put requirments for future Android HW (Tablets, Phones) and I wounder if there is any guidlines or documentation of these requirements that makes it easier to follow the needed standard and get good products to use AR on?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="e53c67b4-33b6-4389-a0b8-5a56ff43643d" CreationDate="2019-06-11T16:19:20.707" UserId="12680" Text="Documentation needed for setting requirments on HW supplier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="e53c67b4-33b6-4389-a0b8-5a56ff43643d" CreationDate="2019-06-11T16:19:20.707" UserId="12680" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38865" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11314" RevisionGUID="741ed7aa-5de7-4f16-a637-f97f31c37207" CreationDate="2019-06-11T16:58:40.180" UserId="1873" Text="You need a [KSZ8863](https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/KSZ8863) - depending on version it has one MII or RMII and two 10/100BASE-T/TX phys.&#xA;&#xA;AFAIK it is supported by lwIP which is a go-to IP library in ST's ecosystem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38866" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="114edf20-5629-40b3-8592-5d3586eebc72" CreationDate="2019-06-11T18:23:59.653" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed list formatting for clarity and fixed minor typos" Text="I want to buy a new business laptop where I want to install Ubuntu 18.04 as OS with following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price up to 2000 €&#xD;&#xA;- ability to use 2 external monitors (must have)&#xD;&#xA;- touchable display (must have)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have you some recommendations for me? And some experiences, because I read in some articles with driver problems when using a docking station for two external monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanxs in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38867" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="114edf20-5629-40b3-8592-5d3586eebc72" CreationDate="2019-06-11T18:23:59.653" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed list formatting for clarity and fixed minor typos" Text="Recommendation of business laptop with OS Ubuntu 18.04" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38868" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="114edf20-5629-40b3-8592-5d3586eebc72" CreationDate="2019-06-11T18:23:59.653" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 882" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38869" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11302" RevisionGUID="6388aed9-e14f-440e-a5e4-23ab4170c013" CreationDate="2019-06-11T18:29:32.710" UserId="57" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a new business laptop where I want to install Ubuntu 18.04 as OS with following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price up to 2000 €&#xD;&#xA;- ability to use 2 external monitors (must have)&#xD;&#xA;- touchable display (must have)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have you some recommendations for me? And some experiences, because I read in some articles with driver problems when using a docking station for two external monitors.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="15d7d443-a007-42f0-b983-3aa93af8b75a" CreationDate="2019-06-11T19:09:59.263" UserId="1873" Comment="improved formatting to avoid misunderstandings" Text="I'm pretty new to implementing this Ethernet stuf..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, is there anyone who can recommend an Ethernet switch (3 port, 2 0ut and 1 for STM32).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that you can use a W3150A + and then use the Microchip LAN9303 Ethernet switch&#xD;but it doesn't seem very smart &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am very fond of how much work to do on the software part, if I can use the Ethernet library that is delivered from ST (cubeMx) that will be great.&#xD;&#xD;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38871" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="15d7d443-a007-42f0-b983-3aa93af8b75a" CreationDate="2019-06-11T19:09:59.263" Comment="Proposed by 1873 approved by 57 edit id of 883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38873" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11316" RevisionGUID="5418f902-0795-478b-816e-d4f277a976be" CreationDate="2019-06-12T01:40:37.260" UserId="12682" Text="i have **140 drivers &amp; 200+ not more than 300 bookings from passengers** within 24 hours. So, i want to **deploy my taxi app on a cloud server**. Same uber concept but this one is using taxi. **Can someone recommend me the amount of computing power i need to run this taxi app for a smooth transaction in a month. Like the amount of Ram, Storage, CPU's etc** etc. Your help is highly appreciated. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38874" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11316" RevisionGUID="5418f902-0795-478b-816e-d4f277a976be" CreationDate="2019-06-12T01:40:37.260" UserId="12682" Text="How much computing power(Server Resource) i need to run my taxi app?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38875" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11316" RevisionGUID="5418f902-0795-478b-816e-d4f277a976be" CreationDate="2019-06-12T01:40:37.260" UserId="12682" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38879" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11219" RevisionGUID="d1947514-40d7-48d7-b6c0-1fb991ce03f0" CreationDate="2019-06-12T07:52:30.227" UserId="9356" Comment="added 47 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a good microphone for recording speech (eg. for radio presenting), for about 60-70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer a USB one but I'll look into all suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Worth mention that I have a desktop but I don't have any external sound card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sound must have quality so no background noise and if it can come with a micstand that's even better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A friend recommended me a [Blue Snowball Microphone](https://www.bluedesigns.com/products/snowball/) but already got 4 people saying otherwise because it breaks easily and I'm worried about that. And I still didn't find anything of my liking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you recommend and why?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Note: Similar [question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/169/good-cheap-microphone-for-speech-voice-recording). (2015)&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11320" RevisionGUID="56c0f7e7-1fae-4991-9c24-d822fffb4bfb" CreationDate="2019-06-12T13:59:47.397" UserId="12689" Text="- you may replace battery pack&#xD;&#xA;- you may replace all accums in battery pack, may be it's lion 18650 3.7v 3000 - 3400mah - 9000mah. ~$3 for one.&#xD;&#xA;- you may make a power bank 20-40-60Wah with 18650 elements and DC-DC converter (20V, 5A)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11321" RevisionGUID="566d58fa-e874-4f0e-a5b6-7cf429391caf" CreationDate="2019-06-12T14:58:25.927" UserId="12690" Text="I'm new to RFID technology and cryptography. So, I'm trying to apply light weight cryptography in RFID tags as a part of my project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm already able to read and write information in some passive RFID tags. But I'm looking for a programmable RFID tag similar to a smart card. Basically I want to send some data to the tag and the tag itself encrypts the data and stores it in its memory. When I want to read the data, it decrypts it and sends it to the reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched all over the internet and it isn't helping much.&#xD;&#xA;Can someone give any suggestions on where can I find such card and how can I program it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11321" RevisionGUID="566d58fa-e874-4f0e-a5b6-7cf429391caf" CreationDate="2019-06-12T14:58:25.927" UserId="12690" Text="Programmable RFID card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11321" RevisionGUID="566d58fa-e874-4f0e-a5b6-7cf429391caf" CreationDate="2019-06-12T14:58:25.927" UserId="12690" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38895" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11323" RevisionGUID="242d68cb-6d66-40a1-b04a-1a158de8ea26" CreationDate="2019-06-12T23:08:15.473" UserId="2141" Text="Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station is working great for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38897" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="50072430-c1af-4f77-a24b-94a5742d6331" CreationDate="2019-06-13T00:05:20.470" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I need to put requirements for future Android HW (Tablets, Phones) and I wonder if there are any guidelines or documentation of these requirements that makes it easier to follow the needed standard and get good products to use AR on?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38898" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="50072430-c1af-4f77-a24b-94a5742d6331" CreationDate="2019-06-13T00:05:20.470" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 885" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="b46264b3-21a1-48c5-a7dc-6df462838943" CreationDate="2019-06-13T00:05:26.420" UserId="48" Comment="Fixed minor typos" Text="I'm pretty new to implementing this Ethernet stuff...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, is there anyone who can recommend an Ethernet switch (3 port, 2 out and 1 for STM32)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that you can use a W3150A and and then use the Microchip LAN9303 Ethernet switch but it doesn't seem very smart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am very fond of how much work to do on the software part, if I can use the Ethernet library that is delivered from ST (cubeMx) that will be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38900" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="b46264b3-21a1-48c5-a7dc-6df462838943" CreationDate="2019-06-13T00:05:26.420" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 884" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11327" RevisionGUID="2c2b6478-0c59-4a0a-a80a-46de9dfe2bcf" CreationDate="2019-06-13T12:00:12.783" UserId="12698" Text="Server resource not only depends on it user, But Also in Which Language it was written.&#xD;&#xA;For Example a simple PHP Application can run with just &lt; 100 MB of RAM. But  Java Application (Spring Boot) requires &gt;200 MB for an sample app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For roughly calculating the RAM requirements, Run the Application with Just 10 User(Drivers or Passengers) &amp; Note down difference between the  RAM Usage when Idle vs 10 Users &amp; divide by 10. You will get RAM Usage for 1 user. Then Multiple it by No. users&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But this method will not work for the CPU recommendations. So Specify the programming language your application was written in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11328" RevisionGUID="b57cb794-e587-4d43-8d9d-4f31e3a5f1df" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:58:18.080" UserId="12699" Text="https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-000E-0CTV4?Description=lenovo%20v110&amp;cm_re=lenovo_v110-_-9SIAA0S8R50297-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I know this is not top notch)&#xD;&#xA;I need a captain who tell me if this is good for programming (c#, .net)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38914" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11328" RevisionGUID="b57cb794-e587-4d43-8d9d-4f31e3a5f1df" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:58:18.080" UserId="12699" Text="Is lenovo v110 god for programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38915" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11328" RevisionGUID="b57cb794-e587-4d43-8d9d-4f31e3a5f1df" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:58:18.080" UserId="12699" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="ec3698d6-d70e-47d6-8857-0240a732df37" CreationDate="2019-06-14T05:48:25.070" UserId="12707" Text="I am working on a system for field experiments. I would like to create an Ethernet network that includes multiple computers. In this case, the router becomes a single point of failure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One solution is to create two identical systems but this is a very expensive solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a router with built-in redundancy. I saw router with dual power supply but I am not sure this is enough. Is there a fully redundant router? basically two routers in one where I as user connect a single line from each client but in case the router fails it has its own mitigation program switching to a redundant component?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Eviatar" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="ec3698d6-d70e-47d6-8857-0240a732df37" CreationDate="2019-06-14T05:48:25.070" UserId="12707" Text="Fully redundant router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="ec3698d6-d70e-47d6-8857-0240a732df37" CreationDate="2019-06-14T05:48:25.070" UserId="12707" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38948" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="bfec7d09-ce2d-4541-8622-494ffe9d93f8" CreationDate="2019-06-14T07:01:09.310" UserId="4350" Comment="deleted 110 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop, and am looking for a power adapter with specific requirements. Here's what I'm after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Works on XPS 15 9550 (ir-6700HQ with 1080p screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - Works with EU (Dutch) Type F power sockets&#xD;&#xA;  - Can _at least_ support my laptop in &quot;Balanced&quot; power mode doing moderate development work (typically CPU usage &lt; 50%, no big GPU usage) while not _draining_ battery&#xD;&#xA;  - Can charge my laptop about from 10% to 80% when idling with screen off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it should allow me to at least continue working while on power, and start charging the battery if I leave my PC in idle mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Offer Powerbank features for charging a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;  - As light as possible (while still offering enough power per musthaves, above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Official Dell branded hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Powerbank supports QuickCharge through usb-c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not too important: although I don't need a gold-plated or autographed device, I'm happy to pay a premium to get all functionalities in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried and returned the PH45W17-CA (12800 mAh usb-c powerbank with 45W adapter), as it was incompatible with my model." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11335" RevisionGUID="e685c34d-c7f8-4000-b414-657598b54336" CreationDate="2019-06-14T07:29:44.270" UserId="12517" Text="Honestly, I don't think it will suffice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Firstly it has 4gb of RAM, which will be maxed out relatively quick. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the dual core processor will not be able to handle any programs unless it's a small, simple one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will be able to write code, but it will definitely not be a pleasant experience. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11337" RevisionGUID="acf27ae0-2883-4cf1-9de1-8cf4879a27d2" CreationDate="2019-06-14T13:18:42.040" UserId="12713" Text="I have a laptop with GPU 940M and a desktop with GPU GTX 980. &#xD;&#xA;Both are capable are performing deep learning task on their own using Pytorch or Tensorflow. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I use them both together for a deep learning task?&#xD;&#xA;Do I have to connect them together through a server? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, what are the keywords to search for a tutorial?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11337" RevisionGUID="acf27ae0-2883-4cf1-9de1-8cf4879a27d2" CreationDate="2019-06-14T13:18:42.040" UserId="12713" Text="How can I use two computers for deep learning?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11337" RevisionGUID="acf27ae0-2883-4cf1-9de1-8cf4879a27d2" CreationDate="2019-06-14T13:18:42.040" UserId="12713" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38963" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11339" RevisionGUID="4c0b4e52-8d55-46ee-98b4-7c6a493c44ff" CreationDate="2019-06-14T18:46:47.880" UserId="10626" Text="A *server* is just another computer. Therefore, you don't need one in order to have a network between your two computers. Instead, you have a choice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You can purchase a *switch* and connect your both machines to the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   The cheapest switches cost less than ten dollars, and allow to plug five or eight devices. Note that you also have to have two *Ethernet cables*. Ensure first that both of your computers have a *network adapter*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Or you can buy a *crossover cable* to connect the computers directly without a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   While this solution is cheaper, it is also the least scalable. If, in the future, you would want to connect a third device, you wouldn't be able to do that if every device has only one network adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - If you have a router, there is possibly a way to either connect two devices through Ethernet to it, or to use Wi-Fi. In this case, you don't need to purchase anything extra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once you have your local network set up, you can start [exploring the capabilities of distributed computing](https://pytorch.org/docs/stable/distributed.html)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38968" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11342" RevisionGUID="85f2c332-2ca8-4f91-9ca9-9cf28d91916e" CreationDate="2019-06-14T19:48:49.777" UserId="10626" Text="You don't need a *router* for a LAN. You need a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to ensure redundancy, you can have **two switches**. If each device has two network adapters, each device would be connected to each switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are, then, different strategies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You may keep the switches isolated from each other, and consider that you have **two different networks**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Or you may connect both switches together and use **LAG** in order to pretend that each device has a single connection to the network, disregarding the fact that there are two physical connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that the second solution is easier and more flexible, but I don't have too much skills in network stuff, so ask for advice on [ServerFault][1]. Also, switches which support LAG are rather expensive, so this may not be a solution for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that with two switches, you are still at risk that some of the device adapters stop working, and at the same time, the *other* switch stops working as well. If this is an issue, you may have, say, four interconnected switches, forming a **[switching loop][2]**—a technique often used to ensure redundancy. With four network adapters for every device, you reduce a lot the risk of losing connectivity to a device even in an event of a simultaneous breakage of a network adapter and a switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://serverfault.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switching_loop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11344" RevisionGUID="b478df33-1c9a-4ff9-ae99-a4a4b180fc3c" CreationDate="2019-06-15T02:01:25.457" UserId="1369" Text="Short, spec based recommendation is the **Lenovo X390 Carbon**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm assuming you're in Europe but not the UK, so the price on Lenovo's Irish site is €1730-1800 (i7, 16GB soldered RAM, 512GB-1TB SSD). Changing keyboard to German, French etc is free. When I checked on the Irish site, a 1TB SSD was only €30 more than a 512GB and they're giving away a free Moto One Phone :-).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Super long version**, because upgrading to a new Linux based machine (even without the work and touchscreen reqs) is always a dice roll:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Touch Screen, under €2k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a number of great touchscreen laptops that are conveniently around €2k e.g. Dell XPS variants, Lenovo X1 variants, HP Spectre and Envy variants, Huawei Matebook X etc.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 2. Work use case, 2-4 week horizon, Ubuntu 18.04, touch screen and under €2k&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because your livelihood depends on it, you can't afford downtime with installation, driver issues (funtime imo), support communication and returns uzw. However with current support, the touch screen requirement on Linux is limiting. Do I have any experience with touch screen laptops running any version of Ubuntu? Nope. But at least [someone else does][1]. Forums show others who have Ubuntu installed on similar Lenovo laptops with/out touchscreens without issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So you'd like [Ubuntu 18.04.02 LTS Hardware Certification][2]. The Hardware Certification is usually based on a manufacturer installed version of Ubuntu rather than a standard Ubuntu, but it is very encouraging nonetheless. Having 18.04 support listed by [Lenovo themselves][3] inspires further confidence that you've taken as many steps as you can to mitigate risk. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*As of now, 18.04.02 LTS hardware certified and touch screen leaves the Lenovo X390 Yoga and X1 Extreme. Under €2k leaves the X390.*&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 3. X390 business extras&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Loads of ports: *Thunderbolt 3 and HDMI* (next section for dual external monitors), 2 x USB Type A ports, micro SD card slot which can have a SIM slot for LTE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The charger is 65W via USB-C. Less cables, less hassle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The X390 Ubuntu hardware cert lists Wacom in the hardware details. For this kind of money, its nice to doodle in a meeting while pretending to take notes. The pen slots into the machine and automatically charges.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yoga flexibility - laptop, tent, tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinkpad keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Privacy cover for camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only known downsides I can foresee at this point would be the lowish screen brightness at 300 nit and the fingerprint scanner is currently not supported, probably never will be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. My own dual external monitors and docking station experience&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll try not to moan too much...I've had nightmares with proprietary TB3 docks, even on Windows with drivers and BIOS up to date. Almost all I've seen require Windows drivers. Even if those work, you'd have spent nearly €200 for the chance it might work with some functionality on Linux :-O. I used Windows To Go for automatic BIOS (saved a little Unetbootin time) and driver upgrades. With Bitlocker enabled, that kept privacy invasive corporate IT away. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I just connect *one monitor via HDMI and the other through a generic USB Type C hub into a TB3 port*. The hub has another HDMI port for the other monitor, USB ports for peripherals and an Ethernet port. No dongle mess. Am I downgrading the bandwidth of a TB3 port to USB 3.1? Yes. Am I limited to 2 monitors on HD? Yes again but I don't care, because it works on every screen, every time, needs no power supply and cost a fraction of a TB3 dock. A similar setup should work for all/most Linux laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could walk into Saturn/PC World etc during off peak hours with a live 18.04 USB and try any docks/hubs you have access to. Make a deal with the sales rep that you'll buy if dual external monitors work etc.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Community-Spotlight/ThinkPad-X390-Yoga-First-Look-Quick-Look/ba-p/4398681&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://certification.ubuntu.com/certification/hardware/201905-27059/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.lenovo.com/linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11337" RevisionGUID="15d27006-e47c-4e5a-8dcf-1ce1450d6d04" CreationDate="2019-06-15T09:17:34.263" UserId="12713" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I have a laptop with GPU 940M and a desktop with GPU GTX 980. &#xD;&#xA;Both are capable of performing deep learning task on their own using Pytorch or Tensorflow. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I use them both together for a deep learning task?&#xD;&#xA;Do I have to connect them together through a server? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, what are the keywords to search for a tutorial?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39008" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11349" RevisionGUID="032acbf7-aaa2-4e12-b931-1d8857f509a1" CreationDate="2019-06-15T23:43:32.690" UserId="12723" Text="Per the post subject, is there an x86 computer like this that I can still buy or otherwise acquire in 2019?  Used or refurbished is OK as long as it is still reliable.  I want a low-cost, low-energy, fanless, small, 80686 (including CMOV instructions, so VIA C7 is OK but VIA C3 is not) or x86-64 computer with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors, as used by 2.5-inch HDDs and SSDs, instead of mSATA to replace some full-size ATX tower computers with fans and using Core 2 and earlier hardware platforms.  Ideally, I want to continue using the current installations of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS for x86-32 from 2011 because it still works for my application so I want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer.  The primary market lifetime (correct term?) of x86 motherboards is frustratingly short for someone like me who still does not have a newer than Core 2 era x86 computer in 2019 because the Core 2 era and earlier x86 computers I use still suffice for my application.  I use the same computer hardware until the hardware, such as through-hole electrolytic capacitors, fails.  I have found some small, such as Mini-ITX, motherboards with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors but they seem to no longer be for sale by the time I find them, years after they were released.  For example, here is a fanless AMD x86-64 Mini-ITX motherboard with six SATA ports using normal connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/C60M1I/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I cannot find anywhere that still sells this model.  The hardware does not need to be current;  the computers I want to replace use hardware platforms aged at least a decade.  I really want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer but I can try to upgrade the OS if necessary or maybe only retrofit a build of a newer than 2.6.32.x Linux kernel into the current installation of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS from 2011.  I think even a Pentium II computer will suffice for my application if it meets the SATA requirements.  I need one Ethernet port, preferably (at least) Gigabit Ethernet;  Fast Ethernet is the minimum.  I prefer Intel over Realtek for Ethernet controllers but Realtek should suffice as long as it is reliable.  I live in Canada.  On NewEgg.ca , I can filter Mini-ITX motherboards to only those with at least three SATA ports, which eliminates all but two models.  One of these models was eliminated because it costs over 1 000 CAD and I do not remember why the other model was eliminated.  On Amazon.ca , I can narrow down motherboards to Mini-ITX but cannot filter the results by cooling type (fanless) nor by number of SATA ports.  It seems that most models of Mini-ITX and smaller x86 motherboards only have up to two SATA ports using normal connectors.  Some motherboards may have at least three SATA ports including mSATA sockets but the drives I am currently using are 2.5-inch or larger and I want to continue using them instead of having to buy mSATA drives.  I bought 2.5-inch SATA SSDs instead of mSATA SSDs because I bought the drives for use with microATX or larger motherboards that use normal SATA connectors instead of mSATA;  I thought it was better to reduce the number of connectors required to connect the drive to the motherboard to reduce long-term reliability problems caused by connectors than to have more modularity/interchangeability by using mSATA drives.  As for the definition of “small”, I want microATX at the largest.  As for “low cost”, I am used to paying &lt;=15 CAD for an Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 CPU and around 50 CAD for a used or refurbished Socket T AKA LGA775 motherboard when I buy five of the same model of motherboard at once.  Yes, I realise that these computers have fans but I am trying to give an idea of what I mean by “low cost”.  Anyway, Amazon has too many models of Mini-ITX motherboards to go through them one by one to see if any are fanless and have at least three SATA ports using normal connectors.  I did find this Core 2 era Mini-ITX motherboard with four SATA ports using normal connectors but I do not know if it is feasible to use this motherboard without any fan?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/Jetway-NF93R-LF-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-Processors/dp/B003Y3TWFO/ref=sr_1_20?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1560625682&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A7328511011&amp;rnid=7328506011&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39009" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11349" RevisionGUID="032acbf7-aaa2-4e12-b931-1d8857f509a1" CreationDate="2019-06-15T23:43:32.690" UserId="12723" Text="Recommendation for small, low-cost, low-energy, fanless, 80686 or x86-64 computer with at least 3 SATA ports using normal connectors instead of mSATA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39010" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11349" RevisionGUID="032acbf7-aaa2-4e12-b931-1d8857f509a1" CreationDate="2019-06-15T23:43:32.690" UserId="12723" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39011" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11349" RevisionGUID="409c70fd-53c9-4b99-8515-4e0d8234902a" CreationDate="2019-06-16T00:01:59.200" UserId="12723" Comment="clarify required architecture of computer; explain more of how I have already searched" Text="Per the post subject, is there an x86 computer like this that I can still buy or otherwise acquire in 2019?  Used or refurbished is OK as long as it is still reliable.  I want a low-cost, low-energy, fanless, small, 80686 (including CMOV instructions, so VIA C7 is OK but VIA C3 is not) or x86-64 computer with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors, as used by 2.5-inch HDDs and SSDs, instead of mSATA to replace some full-size ATX tower computers with fans and using Core 2 and earlier hardware platforms.  Ideally, I want to continue using the current installations of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS for x86-32 from 2011 because it still works for my application so I want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer.  The primary market lifetime (correct term?) of x86 motherboards is frustratingly short for someone like me who still does not have a newer than Core 2 era x86 computer in 2019 because the Core 2 era and earlier x86 computers I use still suffice for my application.  I use the same computer hardware until the hardware, such as through-hole electrolytic capacitors, fails.  I have found some small, such as Mini-ITX, motherboards with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors but they seem to no longer be for sale by the time I find them, years after they were released.  For example, here is a fanless AMD x86-64 Mini-ITX motherboard with six SATA ports using normal connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/C60M1I/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, I cannot find anywhere that still sells this model.  The hardware does not need to be current;  the computers I want to replace use hardware platforms aged at least a decade.  I really want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer but I can try to upgrade the OS if necessary or maybe only retrofit a build of a newer than 2.6.32.x Linux kernel into the current installation of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS from 2011.  I think even a Pentium II computer will suffice for my application if it meets the SATA requirements.  I need one Ethernet port, preferably (at least) Gigabit Ethernet;  Fast Ethernet is the minimum.  I prefer Intel over Realtek for Ethernet controllers but Realtek should suffice as long as it is reliable.  I live in Canada.  On NewEgg.ca , I can filter Mini-ITX motherboards to only those with at least three SATA ports, which eliminates all but two models.  One of these models was eliminated because it costs over 1 000 CAD and I do not remember why the other model was eliminated.  On Amazon.ca , I can narrow down motherboards to Mini-ITX but cannot filter the results by cooling type (fanless) nor by number of SATA ports.  It seems that most models of Mini-ITX and smaller x86 motherboards only have up to two SATA ports using normal connectors.  Some motherboards may have at least three SATA ports including mSATA sockets but the drives I am currently using are 2.5-inch or larger and I want to continue using them instead of having to buy mSATA drives.  I bought 2.5-inch SATA SSDs instead of mSATA SSDs because I bought the drives for use with microATX or larger motherboards that use normal SATA connectors instead of mSATA;  I thought it was better to reduce the number of connectors required to connect the drive to the motherboard to reduce long-term reliability problems caused by connectors than to have more modularity/interchangeability by using mSATA drives.  As for the definition of “small”, I want microATX at the largest.  As for “low cost”, I am used to paying &lt;=15 CAD for an Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 CPU and around 50 CAD for a used or refurbished Socket T AKA LGA775 motherboard when I buy five of the same model of motherboard at once.  Yes, I realise that these computers have fans but I am trying to give an idea of what I mean by “low cost”.  Anyway, Amazon has too many models of Mini-ITX motherboards to go through them one by one to see if any are fanless and have at least three SATA ports using normal connectors.  I did find this Core 2 era Mini-ITX motherboard with four SATA ports using normal connectors but I do not know if it is feasible to use this motherboard without any fan?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.ca/Jetway-NF93R-LF-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-Processors/dp/B003Y3TWFO/ref=sr_1_20?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1560625682&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A7328511011&amp;rnid=7328506011&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-20&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit #1: I prefer to buy x86-64 hardware in case I later need to use an x86-64 OS but, because I am currently using an x86-32 OS, I can still use an 80686 computer with CMOV instructions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I searched this database of single-board computers for x86 computers with SATA connectivity:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.hackerboards.com/search.php?type=&amp;q=&amp;price_min=&amp;price_max=&amp;cpu_speed_min=&amp;cpu_cores=&amp;cpu_arch=x86&amp;ram_min=&amp;storage_min=&amp;sata=on&amp;lan_speed=0&amp;usb_min=&amp;gpio_min=&amp;dim_max_1=&amp;dim_max_2=&amp;weight=&amp;order=price&amp;order_d=a&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but the only computers with at least three SATA ports looks like they will cost far too much and, regardless, they are overkill for my application." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39012" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11120" RevisionGUID="572fabc7-0e6c-47be-aa0f-68071bb8490d" CreationDate="2019-06-16T01:03:35.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11350" RevisionGUID="e961a238-31ed-4b47-81d8-631fd323b9a8" CreationDate="2019-06-16T02:18:53.357" UserId="10056" Text="I'm planning to buy a graphics card such as Rx570 and i m getting this from three OEM like Asus, Gigabyte And Msi These are the models :-&#xA;&#xA;1. Gigabyte Radeon RX570 4GB GDDR5 PCI-E Graphics Card [Here][1] price 13k for 4gb&#xA;&#xA;2. MSI RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC Gaming 256-Bit 8gb Gdrr5 Directx Graphics Card&#xA;[Here][2] Price 16k for 8gb&#xA;&#xA;3. ASUS ROG Strix Radeon RX 570 O4G Gaming OC Edition GDDR5 DP HDMI DVI VR Ready AMD Graphics Card (ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING) [Here][3] price 16k for 4gb&#xA;&#xA;Which of three will be worth buying and which has the top performance will 8gb by msi is better than asus rog 4gb line up any suggestions and explanation all i need i will like to do gaming on 1080p such as Pubg and GTA V etc and little bit Vmware, Android studio etc.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Gigabyte-Radeon-RX570-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B06Y3RT952/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_3/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y3RT952&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B076Y93L8F/ref=psdcmw_1375354031_t1_B06Y5WGXX3&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/Strix-Radeon-Gaming-Graphics-ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING/dp/B06Y5WGXX3/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y5WGXX3&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39014" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11350" RevisionGUID="e961a238-31ed-4b47-81d8-631fd323b9a8" CreationDate="2019-06-16T02:18:53.357" UserId="10056" Text="Which of them is worth buying" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39015" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11350" RevisionGUID="e961a238-31ed-4b47-81d8-631fd323b9a8" CreationDate="2019-06-16T02:18:53.357" UserId="10056" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11352" RevisionGUID="9792a20e-722a-452a-a1dc-7d446bfd59b5" CreationDate="2019-06-16T08:41:11.213" UserId="10626" Text="Low-cost, low-energy and fanless? **Raspberry Pi**. In order to connect your three hard disks, you may want to purchase an **external HDD case**. You can either have two of them, one for two disks, another one for the remaining one, or find a case which can be used with three or four disks (there is much less choice for them compared to one or two disks cases, but you can still find ones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a Raspberry Pi, you get an Ethernet port and Wi-Fi connectivity, four USB connectors (two to three left after you connect the hard disks) for your devices, an HDMI port to connect a monitor, and an audio jack. Don't forget an SD card for the operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is not particularly fun to use as a desktop computer, but it doesn't seem that you're looking for the latest hardware for a gaming platform anyway, so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of the cost, Raspberry Pi with its official case costs about 45 USD. Add 10 USD for the SD card. The most expensive part would be the HDD cases, at least 75 USD, probably more. If you don't have an USB charger to power the Raspberry Pi, add extra 15 USD (don't buy a cheap one, as it won't be able to provide enough power for the device and the three disks)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11353" RevisionGUID="6df80552-233e-4630-8e67-863ba15b3eee" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:21:47.767" UserId="12724" Text="I'm looking for a mouse that's longer than the traditional standard mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I'm beginning to get minor pains in the forefinger and middle finger of each hand. (I swap hands frequently as soon as I feel any pain from one hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've discovered that if I use a STRAIGHT finger (rather than a curved finger), the pain almost disappears in any hand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, my finger would contact the mouse on the TIP of the finger. But if I use a straight finger, I'm touching the button with the pad of my finger, very close to the first joint nearest the fingertip. So, my straight finger actually overhangs the front of the mouse, by about 1cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a mouse that's about 1cm longer than the traditional mouse. (It would also need to be symmetrical, in other words it can be used with either hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following Google search found nothing. The purpose of &quot;-mat&quot; was to eliminate the thousands of extra long mouse mats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    extra long mouse -mat&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be grateful for any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39022" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11353" RevisionGUID="6df80552-233e-4630-8e67-863ba15b3eee" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:21:47.767" UserId="12724" Text="Where can I get a longer mouse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39023" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11353" RevisionGUID="6df80552-233e-4630-8e67-863ba15b3eee" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:21:47.767" UserId="12724" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39024" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11353" RevisionGUID="c7dc43bc-e2e4-4428-98aa-e40ca43304f3" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:30:53.973" UserId="12724" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a mouse that's longer than the traditional standard mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I'm beginning to get minor pains in the forefinger and middle finger of each hand. (I swap hands frequently as soon as I feel any pain from one hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've discovered that if I use a STRAIGHT finger (rather than a curved finger), the pain almost disappears in any hand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, my finger would contact the mouse on the TIP of the finger. But if I use a straight finger, I'm touching the button with the pad of my finger, very close to the first joint nearest the fingertip. So, my straight finger actually overhangs the front of the mouse, by about 1cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a mouse that's about 1cm longer than the traditional mouse. (It would also need to be symmetrical, in other words it can be used with either hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following Google search found nothing. The purpose of &quot;-mat&quot; was to eliminate the thousands of extra long mouse mats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    extra long mouse OR mice -mat&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be grateful for any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39025" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11353" RevisionGUID="6bc2a25e-3dfd-4119-aefc-b9e5ee6e26ac" CreationDate="2019-06-16T10:11:21.347" UserId="12724" Comment="added 18 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a mouse that's longer than the traditional standard mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I'm beginning to get minor pains in the forefinger and middle finger of each hand. (I swap hands frequently as soon as I feel any pain from one hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've discovered that if I use a STRAIGHT finger (rather than a curved finger) to press a button, the pain almost disappears in any hand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Normally, my finger would contact the mouse on the TIP of the finger. But if I use a straight finger, I'm touching the button with the pad of my finger, very close to the first joint nearest the fingertip. So, my straight finger actually overhangs the front of the mouse, by about 1cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm looking for a mouse that's about 1cm longer than the traditional mouse. (It would also need to be symmetrical, in other words it can be used with either hand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following Google search found nothing. The purpose of &quot;-mat&quot; was to eliminate the thousands of extra long mouse mats.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    extra long mouse OR mice -mat&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be grateful for any suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39031" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="3411add1-99b7-4ce7-8335-483a2ecc9045" CreationDate="2019-06-16T15:01:41.003" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39035" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11350" RevisionGUID="2e9f744a-47e1-41d5-9eb0-ea3956123024" CreationDate="2019-06-16T16:15:57.533" UserId="10056" Comment="added 91 characters in body; edited body" Text="I'm planning to buy a graphics card for my ryzen 3 2200g such as Rx570 and i m getting this from three OEM like Asus, Gigabyte And Msi These are the models :-&#xA;&#xA;1. Gigabyte Radeon RX570 4GB GDDR5 PCI-E Graphics Card [Here][1] price 13k for 4gb&#xA;&#xA;2. MSI RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC Gaming 256-Bit 8gb Gdrr5 Directx Graphics Card&#xA;[Here][2] Price 16k for 8gb&#xA;&#xA;3. ASUS ROG Strix Radeon RX 570 O4G Gaming OC Edition GDDR5 DP HDMI DVI VR Ready AMD Graphics Card (ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING) [Here][3] price 16k for 4gb&#xA;&#xA;Which of three will be worth buying and which has the top performance will 8gb by msi is better than asus rog 4gb line up any suggestions and explanation all i need i will like to do gaming on 1080p such as Pubg and GTA V etc and little bit Vmware, Android studio etc which of them will fit with ryzen 3 2200g to get the best performance.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Gigabyte-Radeon-RX570-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B06Y3RT952/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_3/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y3RT952&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B076Y93L8F/ref=psdcmw_1375354031_t1_B06Y5WGXX3&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/Strix-Radeon-Gaming-Graphics-ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING/dp/B06Y5WGXX3/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y5WGXX3&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39043" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="5881bb39-a1bd-42c5-ac5c-b5652f11da35" CreationDate="2019-06-16T21:01:40.433" UserId="1687" Text="(This question was originally part of [another one][1], which has been divided in two for clarity.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my search for a new computer, I narrowed my focus to 2-in-1s (convertibles between laptop and tablet) that allow a dual drive configuration (solid state storage plus spinning hard drive). This will give me a helpful combination of speed, storage capacity, and versatility. It narrows my selection a great deal because there aren’t a lot of computers like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tend to buy direct from major manufacturers where I can get a service contract, so I’ve been mainly looking at Dell and HP, and that narrows the selection to just a few models. The following is a complete list of what I've found from those two companies, along with the basic configurations I worked up and their prices including three years of on-site service with coverage for accidental damage and including offered discounts, plus my bottom-line assessment of each one. They are listed in the order I came across them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 17 7000 2-in-1][2] ([review][3])&#xD;&#xA;    - 17&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 128 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, $1,430&#xD;&#xA;    - Too bulky&#xD;&#xA;- HP [Pavilion x360 Laptop - 15t][4] ([review][5])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 256 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, includes stylus, $940 (accidental damage coverage not available)&#xD;&#xA;    - The review suggests it’s not just inexpensive, but cheap (i.e., not a good value)&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Precision 5530 2-in-1][6] ([review][7])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD, space to install HD, $2,487 (excluding HD)&#xD;&#xA;    - Too expensive&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 7590 2-in-1][8]&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD (32 Gb Optane), 2 Tb HD, includes stylus, $1,707 (including [HD ordered separately][9] and installed by user)&#xD;&#xA;    - Very attractive set of specs (more than just what's listed here) for reasonable price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the things that impresses me about the 7590 is that it is one of the very few touch screen computers that incorporate a crevice to hold the stylus when not in use. To me this indicates the engineers were thinking carefully about the design of the whole system. I was astounded to find out how rare this obvious and simple feature is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two drawbacks of the 7590 are that it’s not available with a matte screen, so its use outdoors will be limited, and that it does not have a socket for a Noble lock, which I find handy when I need to step away from the computer for a few minutes. There's also a concern about the available hard drive, which I ask about in a [separate question][10]. Most important, it’s so new that there are no reviews of it yet, so I’ve posted a [separate question][1] to ask if anyone has seen and used it yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m interested in input from people on this buying decision. Are there other machines I should be considering? I’ll consider buying from a different company if I can be confident of the quality of hardware and availability of service. Or are there few computers like this because it’s not a good idea for some reason?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11351/has-anyone-seen-used-the-dell-inspiron-7590-2-in-1-or-suggest-alternative&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-andnotebooks/inspiron-17-7000-2-in-1/spd/inspiron-17-7786-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-17-7786-i7-8565U-16-GB-17-inch-Touch-MX-150-Convertible-Review.403061.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-pavilion-x360-laptop-15t-5tm97av-1?jumpid=cp_r12160_us/en/psg/hp_pavilion_x360/compare/15-shop-now&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Pavilion-x360-15t-X3W72AV-Convertible-Review.186846.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/tablets-and-2-in-1-laptops/precision-5530-2-in-1/spd/precision-15-5530-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Precision-5530-2-in-1-i7-8706G-Radeon-WX-Vega-M-GL-4K-UHD-Workstation-Review.337352.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops/new-15-2-in-1-black-edition/spd/inspiron-15-7590-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/accessories/apd/400-AORG&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11356/is-a-5400-rpm-drive-suitable-in-a-dual-drive-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39044" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="5881bb39-a1bd-42c5-ac5c-b5652f11da35" CreationDate="2019-06-16T21:01:40.433" UserId="1687" Text="Recommendations for a 2-in-1 (“convertible”) with dual drives (SSD + spinning drive)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39045" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="5881bb39-a1bd-42c5-ac5c-b5652f11da35" CreationDate="2019-06-16T21:01:40.433" UserId="1687" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39049" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="59c01542-1807-4a0b-8ca4-76748f5b809f" CreationDate="2019-06-16T21:07:33.490" UserId="1687" Comment="Update link to other question." Text="(This question was originally part of [another one][1], which has been divided in two for clarity.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my search for a new computer, I narrowed my focus to 2-in-1s (convertibles between laptop and tablet) that allow a dual drive configuration (solid state storage plus spinning hard drive). This will give me a helpful combination of speed, storage capacity, and versatility. It narrows my selection a great deal because there aren’t a lot of computers like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tend to buy direct from major manufacturers where I can get a service contract, so I’ve been mainly looking at Dell and HP, and that narrows the selection to just a few models. The following is a complete list of what I've found from those two companies, along with the basic configurations I worked up and their prices including three years of on-site service with coverage for accidental damage and including offered discounts, plus my bottom-line assessment of each one. They are listed in the order I came across them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 17 7000 2-in-1][2] ([review][3])&#xD;&#xA;    - 17&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 128 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, $1,430&#xD;&#xA;    - Too bulky&#xD;&#xA;- HP [Pavilion x360 Laptop - 15t][4] ([review][5])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 256 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, includes stylus, $940 (accidental damage coverage not available)&#xD;&#xA;    - The review suggests it’s not just inexpensive, but cheap (i.e., not a good value)&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Precision 5530 2-in-1][6] ([review][7])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD, space to install HD, $2,487 (excluding HD)&#xD;&#xA;    - Too expensive&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 7590 2-in-1][8]&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD (32 Gb Optane), 2 Tb HD, includes stylus, $1,707 (including [HD ordered separately][9] and installed by user)&#xD;&#xA;    - Very attractive set of specs (more than just what's listed here) for reasonable price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the things that impresses me about the 7590 is that it is one of the very few touch screen computers that incorporate a crevice to hold the stylus when not in use. To me this indicates the engineers were thinking carefully about the design of the whole system. I was astounded to find out how rare this obvious and simple feature is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two drawbacks of the 7590 are that it’s not available with a matte screen, so its use outdoors will be limited, and that it does not have a socket for a Noble lock, which I find handy when I need to step away from the computer for a few minutes. There's also a concern about the available hard drive, which I ask about in a [separate question][10]. Most important, it’s so new that there are no reviews of it yet, so I’ve posted a [separate question][1] to ask if anyone has seen and used it yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m interested in input from people on this buying decision. Are there other machines I should be considering? I’ll consider buying from a different company if I can be confident of the quality of hardware and availability of service. Or are there few computers like this because it’s not a good idea for some reason?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11351/has-anyone-seen-used-the-dell-inspiron-7590-2-in-1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-andnotebooks/inspiron-17-7000-2-in-1/spd/inspiron-17-7786-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-17-7786-i7-8565U-16-GB-17-inch-Touch-MX-150-Convertible-Review.403061.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-pavilion-x360-laptop-15t-5tm97av-1?jumpid=cp_r12160_us/en/psg/hp_pavilion_x360/compare/15-shop-now&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Pavilion-x360-15t-X3W72AV-Convertible-Review.186846.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/tablets-and-2-in-1-laptops/precision-5530-2-in-1/spd/precision-15-5530-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Precision-5530-2-in-1-i7-8706G-Radeon-WX-Vega-M-GL-4K-UHD-Workstation-Review.337352.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops/new-15-2-in-1-black-edition/spd/inspiron-15-7590-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/accessories/apd/400-AORG&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11356/is-a-5400-rpm-drive-suitable-in-a-dual-drive-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11359" RevisionGUID="5018b11d-fa4d-465e-8901-8ff52e697aa8" CreationDate="2019-06-16T23:45:40.960" UserId="5440" Text="I think you should be looking for an **Ergonomic Mouse**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are the mice that are longer and/or physically laid out for improved arm and finger positioning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products like the [**Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse**][1] or the (cheaper) [**Anker Ergonomic Optical Wired Vertical Mouse**][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2IMf4xL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/2WPFSCk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11361" RevisionGUID="cc3b01ef-b91f-48d7-ac70-4c57acf46572" CreationDate="2019-06-17T05:56:56.010" UserId="12732" Text="I am currently working with Nodemcu. I am running a very long code with many HTTP requests. After 3 http requests, the nodemcu gets crashed. It is unable to handle. I am looking for a WiFi microcontroller which runs on Arduino IDE and can support arduino libraries (because I am using many libraries). Please provide your suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39057" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11361" RevisionGUID="cc3b01ef-b91f-48d7-ac70-4c57acf46572" CreationDate="2019-06-17T05:56:56.010" UserId="12732" Text="More powerful ESP9266 based microcontroller than nodemcu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39058" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11361" RevisionGUID="cc3b01ef-b91f-48d7-ac70-4c57acf46572" CreationDate="2019-06-17T05:56:56.010" UserId="12732" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39059" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11359" RevisionGUID="020030f5-6908-462b-9895-66a232f37853" CreationDate="2019-06-17T06:59:36.087" UserId="5440" Comment="Corrected link" Text="I think you should be looking for an **Ergonomic Mouse**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those are the mice that are longer and/or physically laid out for improved arm and finger positioning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Products like the [**Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse**][1] or the (cheaper) [**Anker Ergonomic Optical Wired Vertical Mouse**][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2XlY4HP&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/2WPFSCk" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39060" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="fd97ce9d-df10-48f7-b762-9dfd4150bb75" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:42:11.490" UserId="12733" Text="For now I need to replace the current hard-drive because I heard some loud clicking this morning. I am not in a position to upgrade my full PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to get the best storage I can with the aim of transferring it to an updated PC next year sometime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, I am not worried about whether the motherboard bottlenecks performance, etc as long as I can move whatever I buy into a modern Desktop later on (which would then be able to make full use of the NVME SSD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried looking into whether there is support. But I am having difficulty understanding whether an M.2 slot is required, or if a PCI-e 4x slot will suffice. Is it possible to install a converter (from PCI-e to NVME, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is what I am looking into atm](https://www.evetech.co.za/intel-660p-512gb-nvme-ssd/best-deal/5674.aspx). How does one find out whether I have what is needed to support it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39061" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="fd97ce9d-df10-48f7-b762-9dfd4150bb75" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:42:11.490" UserId="12733" Text="Does Intel DH61WW motherboard support NVME in any form? Which is the fastest storage it can make use of?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39062" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="fd97ce9d-df10-48f7-b762-9dfd4150bb75" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:42:11.490" UserId="12733" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11363" RevisionGUID="25bca175-f635-4b14-a61d-e07f1322ab34" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:53:51.287" UserId="12686" Text="I need a device that can act as a server (accept and send HTTP requests), and display an image. I want it to be as cheap as possible. I know i can use a Raspberry Pi, but i need something cheaper. I've heard that i can use some of these: ARM Cortex M, STM32, Esp32. Any other recommendations ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39064" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11363" RevisionGUID="25bca175-f635-4b14-a61d-e07f1322ab34" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:53:51.287" UserId="12686" Text="What device should i use in this situation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39065" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11363" RevisionGUID="25bca175-f635-4b14-a61d-e07f1322ab34" CreationDate="2019-06-17T07:53:51.287" UserId="12686" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11364" RevisionGUID="f9338ebe-6c89-47c2-9fbd-ee3a1572a5f1" CreationDate="2019-06-17T08:42:53.933" UserId="3708" Text="The SSD you linked is an M.2 SSD. In order to connect it to a computer without an M.2 slot, you would need to purchase an M.2 to PCIe adapter card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, given that you're planning to use the SSD to replace your failing hard drive, I'm assuming that you want to use it as a boot device. To my knowledge, NVMe drives are only supported as boot devices on Haswell CPUs or later, and even then, support is very patchy (M.2/NVMe support has only really become stable and standard in the last couple of generations of CPUs). Your motherboard has a LGA1155 socket and H61 chipset, which indicates that you have a Sandy Bridge processor. Additionally, the H61 chipset is the most basic chipset for this generation, and as such would not incorporate any new, experimental or upcoming features. Therefore, it is **almost certain that your motherboard will not support an NVMe device for booting**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although it **might** be possible to use the NVMe SSD as a secondary drive, I suspect that you will run into many technical issues along the way which may render the SSD incompatiable with your system. I wouldn't recommend going down this route.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead of buying an NVMe SSD, I would recommend simply getting a standard 2.5&quot; SATA SSD. The speed difference between a SATA and NVMe SSD is usually not noticable during general use, and only really makes a difference if you are using the drive for read/write heavy workloads (e.g. as a scratch disk for video editing). The money saved from buying a SATA drive would also allow you to buy more storage for the same price. Finally, you are unlikely to run into any compatiability issues with SATA, whilst an NVMe SSD is almost certain to give you grief on older systems." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39073" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11136" RevisionGUID="6efbb334-5e90-4ed7-a0c8-5807d7e5b75a" CreationDate="2019-06-17T18:47:00.393" UserId="12420" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="Here is a candidate switch that can be powered entirely over ethernet but I would like to know of more switch options if others would help contribute an answer:&#xD;&#xA;NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Pro Switch (GS108T-300NAS)&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS6Z162/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11370" RevisionGUID="05bcb91f-1477-46f7-8e3e-b5f4a23fc700" CreationDate="2019-06-18T08:04:32.320" UserId="12517" Text="The only notable difference between the two variants is the amount of VRAM &#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's always nice to have the exta buffer, so I'd say go for the 8gb card, but if money is tight, there is nothing wrong with choosing the 4gb card. The only time it will really come into play is if you want to play a game, or run a simulation that is extremely demanding, i.e. that uses more than 4gb of VRAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I myself have a 4gb and a 8gb card, and the amount of games that are affected by the difference is very little. All three of these cards will however be bottlenecked, but not a lot. So I'd say for future proofing, go for the 8gb variant!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit - Another thing to look at are the display ports you'd be using. If you don't need a DVI port, rather go for the cards with DisplayPorts and HDMI ports&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11372" RevisionGUID="78c6b8f0-ba7c-4ac2-a09c-04c13786db0f" CreationDate="2019-06-18T10:33:33.833" UserId="9528" Text="To show a QR Code it's enough a black/white display. The resolution should be equal or greater than the size (in rows/cols) of your QR Code. Check this [page][1] about QR Code versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find serial display (SPI, I2C or UART) for few dollars. The size depends at which distance you need to read the QR Code (i.e. check [this][2]) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About the controller: you didn't say if you need an Ethernet or WiFi connection. Anyway, you can choose whatever you want (or find) with at least:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet / WiFi connection&#xD;&#xA; - Serial port suitable for the chosen display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For WiFi connectivity a NodeMCU or similar boards can do the job with a couple of dollars. If you need Ethernet it would cost more, either using an Arduino board with an Ethernet shield or any MCU with a WIZNet module connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course you have to write the firmware to receive the data to display the QR Code on the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.qrcode.com/en/about/version.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://blog.qrstuff.com/2011/01/18/what-size-should-a-qr-code-be" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39088" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11373" RevisionGUID="2d95022d-0d55-46cf-aaa0-e3354878df36" CreationDate="2019-06-18T11:07:41.640" UserId="12735" Text="I have been looking for a USB C hub that is able to charge via PD whilst at the same time taking the video signal from the port and offering it on a separate USB C port on the hub. However after weeks of searching and buying/returning 2 hubs which looked promising (the only two I could find that had 2 USB-C ports, 1 for PD charging and the other one, which I hoped, would deliver DP Alt Mode, but unfortunately in both cases only delivered regular data transfer) I'm surprised I have not found any of these.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know of any manufacturers that provide hubs like this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The scenario is basically this: A laptop with only 1 USB-C port which is used for charging as well as video out. I also have an external USB-C monitor. I want to be able to use the USB-C monitor AND charge my laptop at the same time. Sounds simple enough, but alas the hardware hub for that doesn't seem to exist (it is possible, as I have hubs that let me charge my laptop whilst taking a regular HDMI output from the same port to feed video to a HDMI monitor, but this particular monitor is USB C input only)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39089" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11373" RevisionGUID="2d95022d-0d55-46cf-aaa0-e3354878df36" CreationDate="2019-06-18T11:07:41.640" UserId="12735" Text="USB-C Hub with PD and DP Alt Mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39090" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11373" RevisionGUID="2d95022d-0d55-46cf-aaa0-e3354878df36" CreationDate="2019-06-18T11:07:41.640" UserId="12735" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="c1755004-f8c3-4a9d-a287-7b274b962427" CreationDate="2019-06-18T20:18:10.083" UserId="12747" Text="I have to buy a laptop with good configuration so that I can run 3-4 virtual machines (Windows 10 &amp; Windows Server 2016) on VMware Workstation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That’s why, I planned for a laptop with i5 8th Gen (i5-8250U), 4GB AMD Graphics and 16GB RAM but because of Optane memory concept, I got confused. I read some articles for Optane memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-8250U supports Optane Memory, Speed Shift Technology, Hyper-Threading Technology, Virtualization Technology (VT-x), Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) and VT-x with Extended Page Tables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, at the end, I am still confused because of correlation of Optane Memory with Graphics Processor for virtualization process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How Optane memory concept is helpful for my requirement and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the behalf of Optane memory should I compromise with Graphics processor and RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pls guide me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;Regards&#xD;&#xA;Smith&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39099" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="c1755004-f8c3-4a9d-a287-7b274b962427" CreationDate="2019-06-18T20:18:10.083" UserId="12747" Text="Correlation of Virtualization with Graphics Processor and Optane Memory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39100" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="c1755004-f8c3-4a9d-a287-7b274b962427" CreationDate="2019-06-18T20:18:10.083" UserId="12747" Text="&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11381" RevisionGUID="dd4d4dfb-a32b-49b0-99f1-9af1a7fa072b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T09:22:06.330" UserId="4786" Text="As the question suggests...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some background info first....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at building quite a few mining rigs that can mine a wide variety of coins. Each rig is going to have 6 GPUs each, and are going to be made up of 'older' Pascal Cards, like the 1080 and the 1080 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of these cards will be on a PCI-E Riser (duh), and each riser would either have a 6 pin power adapter, or a MOLEX power adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be noted that there is no one brand of GTX 1080/Ti that I will be going after, instead, I will be using whatever cards I can get my hands on, so work with virtually all known brands in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Getting to the actual question, I need a PSU that can power the 1080s and their risers comfortably. Any brand of PSU would do just fine, and I'm looking at spending around 400 USD on a single unit. Preferably, I would like to have one PSU per rig, instead of two. But two in one system is always an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for viewing!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39117" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11381" RevisionGUID="dd4d4dfb-a32b-49b0-99f1-9af1a7fa072b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T09:22:06.330" UserId="4786" Text="Recommended PSU for a 6 card mining rig?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39118" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11381" RevisionGUID="dd4d4dfb-a32b-49b0-99f1-9af1a7fa072b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T09:22:06.330" UserId="4786" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11382" RevisionGUID="890dc800-388d-4bfc-9ee3-b68bc70c8630" CreationDate="2019-06-19T10:03:49.040" UserDisplayName="user12755" Text="I am looking for a Hardwaretoken to use 2 Faktor Authentification which supports TOTP for multiple Services. I want to secure my most Important Accounts (like E-Mail and everything with Payments) with 2FA and I want to Setup 2 identical Tokens, so one can stay on a safe place as a backup, if the main Token is lost (USB-A or better USB-C, NFC isn't important).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basicly, I want to be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. independent from my Smartphone, which could get lost, destroyed, stolen or something like this ( and I had to migrate the security keys to new hardware, which may be a few days away, if i have to buy a new phone and sometimes looong ways, to get Access to your Account, without the old Smartphone), so any App like Google Authenticator, Authy, FreeOTP, etc... is no option&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 2. independent from my laptop: I have a Laptop running Linux with keepass (which I could use a TOTP-Plugin with), also it would be possible to install the Software, provided by Yubico (https://developers.yubico.com/OATH/YubiKey_OATH_software.html) and use a Yubikey together with this Software, but so i would always need some kind of computer with this software installed.  And in the end the Laptop - like a Smartphone - could be stolen, broken, etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. independent from Google-Services, which also ends in the fact, that i don't want to use the titan security key (https://cloud.google.com/titan-security-key/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And so comes the Problem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the Exception of Yubikey (no TOTP without additional Software) and the Google Titan Key (see Point 3 above), I can't find any Hardwaretoken with at least a little bit of a trustful Background (good Press, well known Company behind, ...) which could fullfill what I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found the company Protectimus (https://www.protectimus.com/tokens), but they seem to focus on Buissnes Users, and the Tokens all come with &quot;pre-Installed Key&quot; (no way).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also the RSA SecureID focuses on big Companys, but isn't a Solution for private Users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there really no other Alternative to those widely supported Smartphone-Apps for private Users besides Yubikey and Google Titan?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39120" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11382" RevisionGUID="890dc800-388d-4bfc-9ee3-b68bc70c8630" CreationDate="2019-06-19T10:03:49.040" UserDisplayName="user12755" Text="Looking for U2F-Token for TOTP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39121" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11382" RevisionGUID="890dc800-388d-4bfc-9ee3-b68bc70c8630" CreationDate="2019-06-19T10:03:49.040" UserDisplayName="user12755" Text="&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39127" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11384" RevisionGUID="1f64015b-9b93-400a-80cc-61a271fb9729" CreationDate="2019-06-19T13:32:30.670" UserId="12758" Text="I have been looking around and haven't been able to find an answer to this so hoping you guys can help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been tasked with finding a way to power a Raspberry Pi 3B+ (using the PoE Hat) as well as an Adafruit Amplifier remotely using only PoE power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initially the thought came to me to use a PoE splitter but I was concerned about the split of power and if PoE would continue through to the RPi to power it or if it was only Data passthrough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My next thought was to use the 5V GPIO Pins on the RPi to power it but, I quickly realized that it wouldn't be enough power to get the speakers loud enough for the application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If anyone has had similar problems/solutions any assistance would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39128" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11384" RevisionGUID="1f64015b-9b93-400a-80cc-61a271fb9729" CreationDate="2019-06-19T13:32:30.670" UserId="12758" Text="Raspberry Pi 3B+ PoE Amplifier Suggestion" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39129" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11384" RevisionGUID="1f64015b-9b93-400a-80cc-61a271fb9729" CreationDate="2019-06-19T13:32:30.670" UserId="12758" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="b200d7b0-ecb0-4696-89de-2b7e1ffd471b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:38:30.497" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, tags edited, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I have to buy a laptop with a configuration so that I can run 3-4 virtual machines (Windows 10 &amp; Windows Server 2016) on VMware Workstation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's why I planned for a laptop with i5 8th Gen (i5-8250U), 4GB AMD Graphics and 16GB RAM but because of the Optane memory concept, I got confused. I read some articles about Optane memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5-8250U supports Optane Memory, Speed Shift Technology, Hyper-Threading Technology, Virtualization Technology (VT-x), Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O (VT-d) and VT-x with Extended Page Tables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, at the end, I am still confused because of correlation of Optane Memory with Graphics Processor for the virtualization process. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How is the Optane memory concept helpful for my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- On behalf of the Optane memory should I compromise with Graphics processor and RAM?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39132" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="b200d7b0-ecb0-4696-89de-2b7e1ffd471b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:38:30.497" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections, tags edited, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39133" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="b200d7b0-ecb0-4696-89de-2b7e1ffd471b" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:38:30.497" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 12747 edit id of 891" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39134" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="afb583ae-792e-4094-a1d9-627122789630" CreationDate="2019-06-19T15:05:30.380" UserId="4350" Comment="added 338 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop, and am looking for a power adapter with specific requirements. Here's what I'm after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Works on XPS 15 9550 (ir-6700HQ with 1080p screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - Works with EU (Dutch) Type F power sockets&#xD;&#xA;  - Can _at least_ support my laptop in &quot;Balanced&quot; power mode doing moderate development work (typically CPU usage &lt; 50%, no big GPU usage) while not _draining_ battery&#xD;&#xA;  - Can charge my laptop about from 10% to 80% when idling with screen off &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it should allow me to at least continue working while on power, and start charging the battery if I leave my PC in idle mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To further specify, I've measured how much power my laptop currently draws. It wants about 30 Watt when CPU usage is low to idling, and draws about 65 Watt at peak moments (e.g. when I'm running a few builds). Over an 8 hour day, I measured 0.20 kWh, which means about 26 Watt. These measurements were taken using a 130 Watt adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Offer Powerbank features for charging a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;  - As light as possible (while still offering enough power per musthaves, above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Official Dell branded hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Powerbank supports QuickCharge through usb-c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not too important: although I don't need a gold-plated or autographed device, I'm happy to pay a premium to get all functionalities in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried and returned the PH45W17-CA (12800 mAh usb-c powerbank with 45W adapter), as it was incompatible with my model." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39141" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="e50f8460-c9ea-4466-8640-1bcb61c69042" CreationDate="2019-06-19T20:02:25.810" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11386" RevisionGUID="b5a59e2d-8636-46fe-9880-62ca354c328a" CreationDate="2019-06-20T00:33:17.087" UserId="1369" Text="So there's still the unknown of why a Dell 45W USB-C charger did not work on a Dell machine. Given your measured power draw, it might be that your machine doesn't support that charger without some firmware update or just doesn't support charging via USB-C. Maybe try some other USB-C laptop chargers (45W+) you can get a hold to see if they work. For this section I'll assume your machine can't charge via USB-C. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the only closest to spec item I can come up with is the soon to be released **Omnicharge Omni 20+** with a Dell barrel connector. The connector may be included or you may need to order it, I'm reasonably *assuming* that their Dell connector is compatible with your machine. It's much neater than using the AC outlet. Here's their [site][1]. As long as your power draw is under 100W using the Omni 20+, must haves 1, 3 and 4 should be easily met. Must have 2 is more so within your control, as you can charge/power the unit through either the barrel connector or USB-C connected to a Euro power socket. It's also a power bank with 60W USB-C output and it's probably as light as it's going to be for your spec, if/until something else comes along (highly unlikely from Dell).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;If it turns out that your machine can be charged via USB-C the options expand: Omni 20 USB-C, Omni 13+, [HyperJuice][2], [Batpower][3], a few others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just a suggestion: A [75W Dual Type-C PD Travel Charger][4], could power a laptop with the 60W port, a phone/power bank with the 18W port and other devices tucked away with the remaining ports. Pretty clean and small.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.omnicharge.co/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hypershop.com/products/hyperjuice-130w-27000mah-most-powerful-usb-c-battery-pack?variant=19716546527294&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://batpower.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://satechi.net/collections/usb-type-c/products/75w-dual-type-c-pd-travel-charger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39179" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11397" RevisionGUID="19b60511-0243-4670-9720-5f4247a3797c" CreationDate="2019-06-20T17:12:08.667" UserId="12769" Text="I've got a low-end laptop (a Dell Inspiron, running Ubuntu) which satisfies 95% of my needs perfectly. It's not just that I like and it happens to be low-end; I like it *because* it's low-end. I like that it's light and thin, and that I don't have to be too paranoid about spilling tea over it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, now and then I like to play video games; in particular, I really like [Crusader King II][1]. I tried installing this on my laptop, but it runs like ice-cold molasses, unplayably slow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, **Is there any kind of hardware that I can plug into my current laptop, as you would a removable hard drive, that will allow me run to CK2 at a reasonable speed?** Or would I have to get a whole new computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm more than happy to be told this is a stupid question. I suspect it might be. But I thought I'd check before spending money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.paradoxplaza.com/crusader-kings-ii/CKCK02GSK-MASTER.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39180" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11397" RevisionGUID="19b60511-0243-4670-9720-5f4247a3797c" CreationDate="2019-06-20T17:12:08.667" UserId="12769" Text="Plug in-able CPU/GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39181" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11397" RevisionGUID="19b60511-0243-4670-9720-5f4247a3797c" CreationDate="2019-06-20T17:12:08.667" UserId="12769" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11399" RevisionGUID="ad4b626d-557a-47e9-a1ee-984466f5a0a5" CreationDate="2019-06-20T21:34:58.977" UserId="10648" Text="Generally a laptop can only have one CPU. So unfortunately there is nothing that can be done on that side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the graphics card it may be possible to upgrade to a desktop GPU using a [Thunderbolt GPU Enclosure][1]. This type of device requires a Thunderbolt connection on the laptop. The GPU will only output video to its own connectors so a separate monitor is almost always required. Lastly, these devices don't normally specify Linux support so you may need to figure it out on your own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other bits of info that may be relevant:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - In theory some USB Type-C ports can work with a GPU enclosure. I'm not sure if the product exists.&#xD;&#xA; - Older laptops with ExpressCard ports or the even older PCMCIA may also support GPU enclosures. But these adapters will be really hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my opinion, you are better off buying a new laptop to avoid the headaches and the expense of these adapters and a monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-V2-Thunderbolt-Enclosure/dp/B0791ZCH4Q" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39187" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11382" RevisionGUID="c09aa585-31e5-41ed-bb9a-48db62587066" CreationDate="2019-06-21T04:53:23.147" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="Fixed capitalization and spelling" Text="I am looking for a hardware token to use 2 Factor Authentication which supports TOTP for multiple Services. I want to secure my most important accounts (like E-Mail and everything with payments) with 2FA and I want to setup 2 identical tokens, so one can stay in a safe place as a backup if the main token is lost (USB-A or better USB-C, NFC isn't important).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I want to be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. independent from my smartphone, which could get lost, destroyed, stolen or something like this ( and I had to migrate the security keys to new hardware, which may be a few days away, if i have to buy a new phone and sometimes long ways, to get access to your account, without the old smartphone), so any app like Google Authenticator, Authy, FreeOTP, etc... is no option&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; 2. independent from my laptop: I have a Laptop running Linux with KeePass (which I could use a TOTP-Plugin with), also it would be possible to install the Software, provided by Yubico (https://developers.yubico.com/OATH/YubiKey_OATH_software.html) and use a Yubikey together with this Software, but so i would always need some kind of computer with this software installed.  And in the end the laptop - like a smartphone - could be stolen, broken, etc...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. independent from Google Services, which also ends in the fact, that i don't want to use the Titan security key (https://cloud.google.com/titan-security-key/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And so comes the problem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the Exception of Yubikey (no TOTP without additional Software) and the Google Titan Key (see Point 3 above), I can't find any hardware token with at least a little bit of a trustful Background (good Press, well known Company behind, ...) which could fulfill what I want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found the company Protectimus (https://www.protectimus.com/tokens), but they seem to focus on business users, and the tokens all come with &quot;pre-installed key&quot; (no way).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also the RSA SecureID focuses on big companies, but isn't a solution for private users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there really no other alternative to those widely supported smartphone apps for private users besides Yubikey and Google Titan?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39188" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11382" RevisionGUID="c09aa585-31e5-41ed-bb9a-48db62587066" CreationDate="2019-06-21T04:53:23.147" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 12755 edit id of 895" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39189" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11245" RevisionGUID="9a3faba8-f699-4eb5-a435-11dcba480371" CreationDate="2019-06-21T06:53:39.997" UserId="4350" Comment="added 410 characters in body" Text="I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop, and am looking for a power adapter with specific requirements. Here's what I'm after:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Works on XPS 15 9550 (ir-6700HQ with 1080p screen)&#xD;&#xA;  - Works with EU (Dutch) Type F power sockets&#xD;&#xA;  - Can _at least_ support my laptop in &quot;Balanced&quot; power mode doing moderate development work (typically CPU usage &lt; 50%, no big GPU usage) while not _draining_ battery&#xD;&#xA;  - Can charge my laptop about from 10% to 80% when idling with screen off &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, it should allow me to at least continue working while on power, and start charging the battery if I leave my PC in idle mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To further specify, I've measured how much power my laptop currently draws. It wants about 30 Watt when CPU usage is low to idling, and draws about 65 Watt at peak moments (e.g. when I'm running a few builds). Over an 8 hour day, I measured 0.20 kWh, which means about 26 Watt. These measurements were taken using a 130 Watt adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Offer Powerbank features for charging a smartphone&#xD;&#xA;  - As light as possible (while still offering enough power per musthaves, above)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**&#xD;&#xA;  - Official Dell branded hardware&#xD;&#xA;  - Powerbank supports QuickCharge through usb-c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not too important: although I don't need a gold-plated or autographed device, I'm happy to pay a premium to get all functionalities in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried and returned the PH45W17-CA (12800 mAh usb-c powerbank with 45W adapter), as it was incompatible with my model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference, charging over USB-C will _not_ work on the 9550 with _some_ adapters (incl the above, as well as one I borrowed from a colleague's Thinkpad), but it _will_ work with others (e.g. some Apple chargers I borrowed in the past, as well as my [WD15 Dock](https://www.dell.com/support/article/nl/nl/nlbsdt1/sln304627/dell-dock-wd15-usb-type-c-information-compatibility-and-specifications?lang=en))." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11402" RevisionGUID="3a3d3fa7-ef95-4786-9228-c6d06e9fd4dc" CreationDate="2019-06-21T11:58:48.130" UserId="12774" Text="I would like to put two SSD drives into my T110 II and have two 3.5&quot; bays free. I have read in various places that the T110 II doesn't support SSD natively, but I also have a PERC H200 controller with two conventional drives attached, and I have also read in a few places that this should work. All I need is a 2.5&quot; to 3.5&quot; adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I e-mailed Dell to ask for a part number they told me that I can't fit SSD into my configuration, so now I don't know where I stand. They have been unhelpful and unforthcoming, and won't give me the part number I've asked for. They just repeat that it isn't supported and so don't do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please could someone settle this for me: can I put two SSD drives into my tower, in any configuration, but preferably RAID, and if so what adapter could I get to do it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Charles" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39195" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11402" RevisionGUID="3a3d3fa7-ef95-4786-9228-c6d06e9fd4dc" CreationDate="2019-06-21T11:58:48.130" UserId="12774" Text="Using SSD in PowerEdge T110 II" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39196" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11402" RevisionGUID="3a3d3fa7-ef95-4786-9228-c6d06e9fd4dc" CreationDate="2019-06-21T11:58:48.130" UserId="12774" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11403" RevisionGUID="78d30903-c862-464b-9f4b-43c951a5f74e" CreationDate="2019-06-21T13:04:58.793" UserDisplayName="user1691" Text="I bought one of these for a similar situation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016498CK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a dual drive version, but there singles as well, and other brands too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of your question is more tech support, and off-topic. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39206" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="d397d7e6-1794-48ad-a176-7a7be94c035e" CreationDate="2019-06-22T02:59:40.873" UserId="48" Comment="Removed signature, as per SE policy" Text="I am working on a system for field experiments. I would like to create an Ethernet network that includes multiple computers. In this case, the router becomes a single point of failure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One solution is to create two identical systems but this is a very expensive solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a router with built-in redundancy. I saw router with dual power supply but I am not sure this is enough. Is there a fully redundant router? basically two routers in one where I as user connect a single line from each client but in case the router fails it has its own mitigation program switching to a redundant component?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39207" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="d397d7e6-1794-48ad-a176-7a7be94c035e" CreationDate="2019-06-22T02:59:40.873" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 894" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39210" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11327" RevisionGUID="38d0706d-521a-4f12-9b7b-fe7121ad08e9" CreationDate="2019-06-22T02:59:50.123" UserId="48" Comment="Grammar, spelling and random capitalisation fixed" Text="Server resource not only depends on its user, but also upon which language it was written in.&#xD;&#xA;For example a simple PHP Application can run with just &lt; 100 MB of RAM. But  a Java application (Spring Boot) requires &gt;200 MB for an sample app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For roughly calculating the RAM requirements, run the application with just 10 users (drivers or passengers) and note down the difference between the RAM usage when idle vs 10 users &amp; divide by 10. You will get RAM Usage for 1 user. Then multiply it by the number of users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But this method will not work for the CPU recommendations. So specify the programming language your application was written in." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39211" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11327" RevisionGUID="38d0706d-521a-4f12-9b7b-fe7121ad08e9" CreationDate="2019-06-22T02:59:50.123" Comment="Proposed by 48 approved by 57 edit id of 889" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39214" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="f356f30b-3d43-4f78-b2de-ddcfa3557f30" CreationDate="2019-06-22T03:00:02.983" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="I need to put requirements for future Android hardware (tablets, phones) and I wonder if there are any guidelines or documentation of these requirements that makes it easier to follow the needed standard and get good products to use AR on?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39215" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="f356f30b-3d43-4f78-b2de-ddcfa3557f30" CreationDate="2019-06-22T03:00:02.983" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="Documentation needed for setting requirements on Android hardware supplier" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39216" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="f356f30b-3d43-4f78-b2de-ddcfa3557f30" CreationDate="2019-06-22T03:00:02.983" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39217" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="f356f30b-3d43-4f78-b2de-ddcfa3557f30" CreationDate="2019-06-22T03:00:02.983" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11407" RevisionGUID="f08f22ef-0190-40cb-aaa5-162110dcad9a" CreationDate="2019-06-22T12:22:01.717" UserId="12783" Text="I’m building a product that uses NVIDIA GPUs and need 8GB of GPU RAM. &#xD;&#xA;also, my code is currently based on Windows. &#xD;&#xA;Is there a box with an Intel processor that can run any kind of Windows (embedded?) and have the requested GPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Eventually I’ll need hundreds or thousands of devices and my target is $600-700 per device. &#xD;&#xA;The preference is to find an off the shelf product. &#xD;&#xA;Is this possible or nothing like that in the market?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39229" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11407" RevisionGUID="f08f22ef-0190-40cb-aaa5-162110dcad9a" CreationDate="2019-06-22T12:22:01.717" UserId="12783" Text="What’s the cheapest hardware that include a 8GB NVIDIA GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39230" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11407" RevisionGUID="f08f22ef-0190-40cb-aaa5-162110dcad9a" CreationDate="2019-06-22T12:22:01.717" UserId="12783" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11409" RevisionGUID="43d7e23b-2e63-46f2-8f80-7c63cdb6aaeb" CreationDate="2019-06-22T16:30:30.170" UserId="527" Text="Are there any currently manufactured 4TB-5TB external portable USB bus-powered hard drives that do ***not*** use [Shingled Magnetic Recording (SMR)][1] technology?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to avoid SMR hard drives because I have read that they can be slow for non-archival functions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wikipedia.org/wiki/Shingled_magnetic_recording" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39236" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11409" RevisionGUID="43d7e23b-2e63-46f2-8f80-7c63cdb6aaeb" CreationDate="2019-06-22T16:30:30.170" UserId="527" Text="4TB-5TB External portable USB bus-powered hard drive that does not use SMR technology" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39237" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11409" RevisionGUID="43d7e23b-2e63-46f2-8f80-7c63cdb6aaeb" CreationDate="2019-06-22T16:30:30.170" UserId="527" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;backup&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39241" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11411" RevisionGUID="90a87fc8-bd99-4f26-94c4-d0feb1fd44bf" CreationDate="2019-06-23T08:45:11.910" UserId="12789" Text="I'm looking for a super small computer that can have:&#xD;&#xA;64gb DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;3TB SSD or NVME or something smaller(physical size)&#xD;&#xA;Super fast processor, better than an intel i7 chip or smaller.&#xD;&#xA;And a super small but powderful graphics card allowing 8k video to a VR headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of this computer has to be the size of an iphone SX MAX or three of them put together front to back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price doesn't matter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39242" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11411" RevisionGUID="90a87fc8-bd99-4f26-94c4-d0feb1fd44bf" CreationDate="2019-06-23T08:45:11.910" UserId="12789" Text="Smallest but fastest computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39243" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11411" RevisionGUID="90a87fc8-bd99-4f26-94c4-d0feb1fd44bf" CreationDate="2019-06-23T08:45:11.910" UserId="12789" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11412" RevisionGUID="9a97016a-6e5e-469b-8242-279f83ed53c5" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:22:50.827" UserId="12790" Text="So I have a TV in my room I'd like to able to use to remotely connect to my gaming PC from, but I am trying to find a solution for this that wont cost much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For context, I have the TV and PS4 in my room because they are both super quiet and dont interfere with my sleep. The gaming PC I keep in the office (just a room away) since the LED's and fan noise sometimes disturb my sleep, and I have a different setup for office use (coursework, game dev, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, instead of buying a whole new gaming PC for the bedroom, I want to have a means to connect to it, play games, and use peripherals such as my PS4 controller/a Vive HMD without having them directly connected. All while running as quietly as a PS4 while in use, and totally silent when not in use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now to the r/computerbuilding aspect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ive thought of a couple options for how to make this work, but I want to explore some of the options more and see what would really be best before dedicating to a build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Smart TV My current TV doesnt have any wifi functionality so ive considered buying a smart 4k tv 55&quot; (same dimensions as the current one). Costwise this is probably around the middle, id imagine a cost of 600 to 700 $, however id be upgrading to 4K as well. My concerns with this are that I dont think there is any way to actually control the PC (except maybe using CEC with the tv remote) unless I pair this with a thin client.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Thin Client This would probably be very low cost compared to other solutions (200 or under), but I have little experience with thin clients. It seems since they dont use RAM or an HDD they run their own unique OS. So it seems it could be a bit more complex than using RDP from a Windows thick client. Also concerned that there may not be enough ports for USB peripherals, or that it could handle processing 4k/VR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Thick Client This would maybe run somewhere in the middle of the road but could potentially end up costing as much as #1. Maybe I am misunderstanding what a thick client is, but by my definition it is a low spec PC (has RAM and HDD vs the thin client) that can offer functionality itself (like running Windows and a browser/low usage apps on its own), but would primarily rely on the server (for my purposes likely via RDC) to offload the heavy processing. I like this option because I have more control and options for what hardware I use, specifically with more ports on the mobo), but I am used to doing ATX factor builds. Problem is, I am not sure I can make this small enough (would have to be smaller than MicroATX probably), cheap enough (ideally under 300$), and quiet enough (dont have experience with fanless/minimal fan builds) to be practical. I also expect a PS4 controller would probably work over RDC but I am less confident if a Vive would also work under this setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So right now I am leaning towards 2 or 3 (I dont have pressing need for a TV upgrade), but I am a bit on the fence since this is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some specs for my setups that might be relevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bedroom: 55&quot; SHARP 1080p TV (manufactured something like 2013) PS4 Slim 5 channel speakers w/ sub Input/output audio mixers that mix audio between up to 4 devices, and outputs to 4 devices (the speaker system uses 3 of these lines for fine tuned control of channels)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Office: 3x 21&quot; Dell monitors, wall mounted Crosshair V Formula Z mobo housed in a Level 10 GT Thermaltake chassis AMD FX-8390 (a bit older but good performance for me), watercooled-single radiator ASUS ROG Strix 6GB GDDR5X GTX 1080 32GB (8x4)DDR3 Corsair Ballistix RAM 1000w XFX PSU - 80+ Titanium rated 2TB Samsung 850 Pro 2.5&quot; SSD 3x 4TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM HDDs in Raid 5 for 8TB storage w/ parity (software raid via FlexRaid-T)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And for internet 250mbps + 5ghz WiFi, networked w/ a 5-port unmanaged switch in office. Direct ethernet to PS4 and PC. May get a switch for the bedroom as well if more ports would help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be interested on hearing some thoughts and opinions on possible setups and which options may work better than others, or even alternatives im not aware of." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11412" RevisionGUID="9a97016a-6e5e-469b-8242-279f83ed53c5" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:22:50.827" UserId="12790" Text="Looking for solution for gaming via remote desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11412" RevisionGUID="9a97016a-6e5e-469b-8242-279f83ed53c5" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:22:50.827" UserId="12790" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;thin-client&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11413" RevisionGUID="815b1e32-52cc-4e09-a34a-7b68736367bd" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:39:50.690" UserId="12791" Text="I am looking to create a solar powered GPS tracker for a fleet of rental trailers.  I am intermediate Arduino user and comfortable with this platform and would like to base it on this system.  Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Uses cellular system to report.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Solar powered - there is no native power on the trailer.  &#xD;&#xA;3) IoT reporting (I will secure a subscription for reporting/recording)&#xD;&#xA;4) Ardunio based.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Design freedom:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Can be bulky.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Does not need to be covert.  &#xD;&#xA;3) Does not need fast reporting - a position every hour or even every day would be sufficient.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Ben&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11413" RevisionGUID="815b1e32-52cc-4e09-a34a-7b68736367bd" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:39:50.690" UserId="12791" Text="Arduino Solar GPS tracker" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11413" RevisionGUID="815b1e32-52cc-4e09-a34a-7b68736367bd" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:39:50.690" UserId="12791" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;asset-tracking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39250" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11414" RevisionGUID="b7b3c30e-8118-4611-9f69-a2e752ee8c81" CreationDate="2019-06-23T19:36:12.500" UserId="10648" Text="First, if you plan on using Windows Remote Desktop you will have the following issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Input latency may be too high for some games&#xD;&#xA;- Video streaming quality/compression &amp; latency may be untolerable&#xD;&#xA;- Game controllers are not passed through&#xD;&#xA;- DirectX games must be run in windowed mode&#xD;&#xA;- OpenGL doesn't work at all unless the application is already running before connecting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are *better* remote desktop/streaming solutions available though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Steam In-Home Streaming][1]&#xD;&#xA;- [Geforce GameStream][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [NoMachine][3] (Still has some issues)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steam In-Home Streaming requires a device that can run Steam. Android supports it too. You can use Steam to stream *any* game installed on the server PC, not just games you own on Steam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your GTX 1080 also makes you a good candidate for using Geforce GameStream, which requires either an Nvidia Shield device or another PC/Android device (using a third-party client). If I recall correctly, Steam In-Home Streaming uses the same GPU features as Geforce GameStream to encode/compress the video, so the video should look nearly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On to the hardware recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A small &amp; quiet PC (thick client) would be all you need to experiment with all 3 of those streaming solutions. With low-end hardware you could even go as far as using fanless coolers and simply avoid connecting any LEDs that may bother you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to keep cost down, an Android box should be able to use the new [Steam In-Home client for Android][4]. These things can [cost as little as $60][5] and will work with the DualShock 4 controller over bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.steampowered.com/streaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.geforce.co.uk/geforce-experience/gamestream&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nomachine.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Android-Box%EF%BC%8CGreatlizard-BT5-0-1080p-Smart/dp/B07MTCXZQZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=android%20box&amp;qid=1561318217&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39251" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11414" RevisionGUID="6d2e0020-12f8-4d3a-b691-225ea3f2e24d" CreationDate="2019-06-23T19:43:51.060" UserId="10648" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="First, if you plan on using Windows Remote Desktop you will have the following issues:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Input latency may be too high for some games&#xD;&#xA;- Video streaming quality/compression &amp; latency may be untolerable&#xD;&#xA;- Game controllers are not passed through&#xD;&#xA;- DirectX games must be run in windowed mode&#xD;&#xA;- OpenGL doesn't work at all unless the application is already running before connecting&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are *better* remote desktop/streaming solutions available though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Steam In-Home Streaming][1]&#xD;&#xA;- [Geforce GameStream][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [NoMachine][3] (Still has some issues)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steam In-Home Streaming requires a device that can run Steam. Android supports it too. You can use Steam to stream *any* game installed on the server PC, not just games you own on Steam.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your GTX 1080 also makes you a good candidate for using Geforce GameStream, which requires either an Nvidia Shield device or another PC/Android device (using a third-party client). If I recall correctly, Steam In-Home Streaming uses the same GPU features as Geforce GameStream to encode/compress the video, so the video should look nearly the same.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On to the hardware recommendation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A low-end PC with HDMI (thick client) would be all you need to experiment with all 3 of those streaming solutions. With low-end hardware you could even go as far as using fanless coolers and simply avoid connecting any LEDs that may bother you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to keep cost down, an Android box should be able to use the new [Steam In-Home client for Android][4]. These things can [cost as little as $60][5] and will work with the DualShock 4 controller over bluetooth. Of course an Android smart TV should be able to run this app too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, I am not aware of any solution to stream VR from one PC to another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.steampowered.com/streaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.geforce.co.uk/geforce-experience/gamestream&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.nomachine.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Android-Box%EF%BC%8CGreatlizard-BT5-0-1080p-Smart/dp/B07MTCXZQZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=android%20box&amp;qid=1561318217&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39252" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11415" RevisionGUID="7f8d4c31-1cdd-4d2b-a9c8-4c6afd0c86e7" CreationDate="2019-06-23T20:07:50.890" UserId="12792" Text="I'd like to ask you what is CPU architecture, in an oversimplified way. I'm learning node.js and recently I saw a code `console.log(os.arch())`. The result was x64. What does that x means? Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39253" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11415" RevisionGUID="7f8d4c31-1cdd-4d2b-a9c8-4c6afd0c86e7" CreationDate="2019-06-23T20:07:50.890" UserId="12792" Text="What is CPU architecture?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39254" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11415" RevisionGUID="7f8d4c31-1cdd-4d2b-a9c8-4c6afd0c86e7" CreationDate="2019-06-23T20:07:50.890" UserId="12792" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11416" RevisionGUID="643eb3f6-edd5-4391-8c0e-9c5c4991ed32" CreationDate="2019-06-23T20:43:47.913" UserId="10648" Text="This question isn't relevant to this Stack Exchange community, but I will try answer it before anyone flags or closes this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A CPU architecture is basically a name for the design of a CPU; If many CPUs share the same features then it can be said that those CPUs share an 'architecture'. It is especially useful to programmers to know that they can write code once that will run on all CPUs that implement that architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two very common architectures for CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86&#xD;&#xA; - x64&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 'x' in 'x86' is a sort of wildcard to represent any CPU from a family of CPUs which all shared a similar design &amp; instruction set. One such CPU was the Intel 80486, which is where the '86' comes from. Thus, 'x86' was adopted to refer to CPUs that implement a 16-bit or 32-bit architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later on when AMD introduced 64-bit CPUs, they initially called this architecture amd64, but then Intel came up with their own design and soon the 'x64' term was invented to refer to 64-bit CPUs in general.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose of the `os.arch()` function is to identify the CPU architecture that your node application is running on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39256" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11416" RevisionGUID="37b465f4-78a4-4b5d-b1ab-09a890f7553f" CreationDate="2019-06-23T22:03:12.863" UserId="10648" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="This question isn't relevant to this Stack Exchange community, but I will try answer it before anyone flags or closes this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A CPU architecture is basically a name for the design of a CPU; If many CPUs share the same features then it can be said that those CPUs share an 'architecture'. It is especially useful to programmers to know that they can write code once that will run on all CPUs that implement that architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are two very common architectures for CPUs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86&#xD;&#xA; - x64&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 'x' in 'x86' is a sort of wildcard to represent any CPU from a family of CPUs which all shared a similar design &amp; instruction set. One such CPU was the Intel 80486, which is where the '86' comes from. Thus, 'x86' was adopted to refer to CPUs that implement this common 32 or 16-bit architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later on when AMD introduced 64-bit CPUs, they initially called this architecture amd64, but then Intel came up with their own design and soon the 'x64' term was invented to refer to 64-bit CPUs in general.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose of the `os.arch()` function is to identify the CPU architecture that your node application is running on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39257" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11415" RevisionGUID="eefc16ec-5941-46ea-ab6c-314f49af2136" CreationDate="2019-06-24T00:29:51.217" UserId="57" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:57,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Andy&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39259" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11416" RevisionGUID="93fb3ae2-42c9-43ed-9656-0e3ae407eda7" CreationDate="2019-06-24T00:37:54.640" UserId="10648" Comment="added 77 characters in body" Text="&gt; I'd like to ask you what is CPU architecture, in an oversimplified way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question isn't relevant to this Stack Exchange community, but I will try answer it before anyone flags or closes this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A CPU architecture is basically a name for the design of a CPU; If many CPUs support the same features then it can be said that those CPUs share an 'architecture'. It is especially useful to programmers to know that they can write code once that will run on all CPUs that implement that architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The `os.arch()` function will usually return one of these two architectures on a PC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - x86&#xD;&#xA; - x64&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 'x' in 'x86' is a sort of wildcard to represent any CPU from a family of CPUs which all shared a similar design &amp; instruction set. One such CPU was the Intel 80486, which is where the '86' comes from. Thus, 'x86' was adopted to refer to CPUs that implement this common architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later on when AMD introduced 64-bit CPUs, they initially called this architecture amd64, but then Intel came up with their own design and soon the 'x64' term was invented to refer to 64-bit CPUs in general.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose of the `os.arch()` function is to identify the CPU architecture that your node application is running on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11417" RevisionGUID="5864f3dc-e378-4082-a5e3-6fc1f2ff5119" CreationDate="2019-06-24T01:47:15.360" UserId="5440" Text="A product like this is non-existent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today's component sizes are way bigger than this, so it is not possible to fit those specs into such a small thing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11413" RevisionGUID="15626685-692f-4abd-8650-76e4f0558704" CreationDate="2019-06-24T04:15:50.207" UserId="12791" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I am looking to create a solar powered GPS tracker for a fleet of rental trailers.  I am intermediate Arduino user and comfortable with this platform and would like to base it on this system.  Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Uses cellular system to report.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Solar powered - there is no native power on the trailer.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) IoT reporting (I will secure a subscription for reporting/recording)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Ardunio based.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Design freedom:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Can be bulky.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Does not need to be covert.  &#xD;&#xA;3) Does not need fast reporting - a position every hour or even every day would be sufficient.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for the help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers,&#xD;&#xA;Ben&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39263" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11418" RevisionGUID="29b64f90-c65e-486d-8974-818079f2f6d0" CreationDate="2019-06-24T05:38:07.993" UserId="12794" Text="I have few questions regarding Pen-drive security. 1. Is there any way to, prevent a pen-drive, to stop detecting on random system. I want to detect my pen-drive on a particular system. Please, recommend a proper solution anything with software or hardware would be helpful. 2. Can we stop a pen-drive from being formatted without proper authentication. I have tried like all the software they are good but after formatting all data is lost. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39264" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11418" RevisionGUID="29b64f90-c65e-486d-8974-818079f2f6d0" CreationDate="2019-06-24T05:38:07.993" UserId="12794" Text="USB Security / Mounting / Authentication" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39265" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11418" RevisionGUID="29b64f90-c65e-486d-8974-818079f2f6d0" CreationDate="2019-06-24T05:38:07.993" UserId="12794" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39275" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11424" RevisionGUID="e90ca790-9f73-4529-9f03-a974566a8e17" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:06:51.280" UserId="12797" Text="I need to build a system that runs multiple chrome web browsers simultaneously. I am now trying to determine the optimal CPU/RAM performance ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already figured out that each instance requires about &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 250MB&#xD;&#xA;CPU: 1% of 1 core (Intel Xeon E5-2673 v3 @ 2.40GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU provides a benchmark score of 16383 (12 cores) according to &#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/CPU_mega_page.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So one core should be equivalent to 1000-1500 score points.&#xD;&#xA;1 instance of Chrome requires 2% of that (i.e. 20-30).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my conclusion would be that I need about 100 &quot;benchmark points&quot; for every GB of RAM in my system to get a good balance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be a my best option to for a system with this ratio of RAM/CPU?&#xD;&#xA;Multiple smaller systems (i.e. desktop pcs with up to 32gb of ram) or few large servers with multicore cpus and &gt; 128gb RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39276" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11424" RevisionGUID="e90ca790-9f73-4529-9f03-a974566a8e17" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:06:51.280" UserId="12797" Text="Mainboard / CPU / RAM for multiple chrome instances" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39277" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11424" RevisionGUID="e90ca790-9f73-4529-9f03-a974566a8e17" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:06:51.280" UserId="12797" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11424" RevisionGUID="3ed1cf71-c604-4c8e-99d4-898e83185dc8" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:31:54.133" UserId="12797" Comment="added 250 characters in body" Text="I need to build a system that runs multiple chrome web browsers simultaneously. I am now trying to determine the optimal CPU/RAM performance ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already figured out that each instance requires about RAM: 250MB CPU: 1% of 1 core (Intel Xeon E5-2673 v3 @ 2.40GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU provides a benchmark score of 16383 (12 cores) according to https://www.cpubenchmark.net/CPU_mega_page.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So one core should be equivalent to 1000-1500 score points. 1 instance of Chrome requires 2% of that (i.e. 20-30).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my conclusion would be that I need about 100 &quot;benchmark points&quot; for every GB of RAM in my system to get a good balance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would be a my best option to for a system with this ratio of RAM/CPU? Multiple smaller systems (i.e. desktop pcs with up to 32gb of ram) or few large servers with multicore cpus and &gt; 128gb RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the desktop cpus would give me more bang for the buck. I especially do not really understand why a 10000$ xeon platinum has a similar score as a high end 1000$ desktop CPU.&#xD;&#xA;I would therefore be very thankful for a hint in the right direction." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39285" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11411" RevisionGUID="660495d3-b3ee-431c-b7bf-1db17985258b" CreationDate="2019-06-25T00:54:22.577" UserId="12789" Comment="changed powderful to powerful" Text="I'm looking for a super small computer that can have:&#xD;&#xA;64gb DDR4 ram&#xD;&#xA;3TB SSD or NVME or something smaller(physical size)&#xD;&#xA;Super fast processor, better than an intel i7 chip or smaller.&#xD;&#xA;And a super small but powerful graphics card allowing 8k video to a VR headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The size of this computer has to be the size of an iphone SX MAX or three of them put together front to back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price doesn't matter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11430" RevisionGUID="c57020ac-194a-408e-90ef-1ccc2910628a" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:21:12.233" UserId="12806" Text="I'm trying to measure the distance of a glass/transparent object using an IR sensor. Does anybody know of sensors that work for this task? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: it has to be reasonably small, so ultrasonic sensors won't do. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39301" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11430" RevisionGUID="c57020ac-194a-408e-90ef-1ccc2910628a" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:21:12.233" UserId="12806" Text="Arduino Presence Detector through Glass and Transparent Objects" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39302" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11430" RevisionGUID="c57020ac-194a-408e-90ef-1ccc2910628a" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:21:12.233" UserId="12806" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11431" RevisionGUID="4a8417f3-91d8-4de0-bae2-db927afd8185" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:23:10.337" UserId="12807" Text="I have a problem with a pc using intel core i7 gen 4. And would like to test it with other pc that using i5 gen 4. Is it Match vice versa with the mother board? And how about the driver installed in windows? Should I update?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39304" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11431" RevisionGUID="4a8417f3-91d8-4de0-bae2-db927afd8185" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:23:10.337" UserId="12807" Text="Processor replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39305" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11431" RevisionGUID="4a8417f3-91d8-4de0-bae2-db927afd8185" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:23:10.337" UserId="12807" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11432" RevisionGUID="dda364d8-10de-4b84-a5d6-2763a4f9da4d" CreationDate="2019-06-25T07:25:46.020" UserId="12517" Text="If I understand correctly you want to test a core i5 4th gen cpu in the same Lga 1150 gen motheboard. There should be no problem. As long as it's still a 4th gen cpu on a 4th gen motherboard you will be good. About the drivers, I'd say update to the newest ones you can get, or if you're worried about security (Thank you Windows), rather wait until they are sure about their updates not being able to break your computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11433" RevisionGUID="6333a9cf-89d3-44bc-ad77-efce30dafe09" CreationDate="2019-06-25T08:18:17.953" UserId="7556" Text="# What is Optane? What is Optane good for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwH5Q8ZFJvw)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh, right, not doing link only answers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Optane is one of Intel's brandings for a new-ish type of non-voltaile storage**, known as 3D XPoint—as well some associated &quot;technologies&quot;, because confusion is good (more on that in a bit.) Optane sits in between RAM and NAND flash, being cheaper but worse performing than RAM, and faster but better performing than NAND. However, it sits closer to the NAND side than the RAM side. **Compared to traditional NAND used in &quot;normal&quot; SSDs, it has two main advantages (endurance and latency) and once disadvantage (price.)** So, unless you have massive amounts of money to spend and simply want the best of the best, **Optane is best used as a sort of scratch disk**, where frequent read/writes won't impact longevity and the strong random access times shine. This is particularly useful in a number of professional applications. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Intel shenanigans&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the consumer side, Intel is marketing Optane as a sort of cache for frequently used files/programs/other data. The idea is that frequently used data gets migrated off your SSD or HDD, onto a (relatively small, 16GB or 32GB typically) Optane module, speeding up performance for that set frequently accessed items. This is the same concept as with an SSHD; however, instead of the cache being NAND, it's a larger 3D XPoint cache.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is where things get... annoying. As with an SSHD, this process is supposed to happen silently, in the background, without user input. Unlike an SSHD though, because the modules are separate, it can't be handled by the drive controller. Intel therefore handed the job to the CPU and chipset (and required associated software.) However, **Intel restricted their support for this to 7th Gen CPUs/200 series chipsets and newer. To denote this, Intel (and associated partners) started marking certain other hardware, including prebuilt computers, as Optane ready. However, the drives themselves will work fine in other systems; it's just the automated caching. [This can easily be replaced with other sofware](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWXBo0bb_dU)**, such as [PrimoCache](https://www.romexsoftware.com/en-us/primo-cache/) on Windows—while adding additional features and flexibility, such as the ability to use regular NAND flash.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Should I get it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**No.** Probably. For the Optane modules themselves, [the performance difference in &quot;normal&quot; use, compared to even a mid-tier SSD, simply isn't noticeable or important in everyday use.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgTYSsaNU_A) While it might be useful within a very narrow use case (e.g. creating many different VMs while utilizing a few shared resources), it's probably not worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for anything marketed using the Optane name, there's no reason to pay extra. Intel's software isn't any better than other solutions, and all it really means is that there's a bog-standard NVMe-compatible M.2 slot that you *could* install an Optane module in. **It's certainly not a reason to compromise on anything else. Get whatever fits your requirements in other areas (we can help!), if you want to install Optane (for some reason) make sure there's a free NVMe-compatible M.2 port, don't bother looking for Optane branding.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11434" RevisionGUID="81932851-408f-4af4-966f-35929594f064" CreationDate="2019-06-25T08:55:01.540" UserId="12758" Text="So after many hours of testing different methods to go for maximum volume (which was required) we ended up running 2 PoE lines and used a PoE splitter because it was significantly cheaper then running a power line (involves hiring an electrician and can get expensive. Very quick). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11440" RevisionGUID="d752f259-5c94-45d9-b828-41ee1113081c" CreationDate="2019-06-26T00:20:44.990" UserId="12822" Text="Is MacBook Air Early 2015 edition with 1.6 GHz Intel Core i5, 4GB memory 1600 MHz DDR3, 1.5GB graphics card, and 120GB SSD hard drive good learning and developing iOS apps using swift programming language?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39323" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11440" RevisionGUID="d752f259-5c94-45d9-b828-41ee1113081c" CreationDate="2019-06-26T00:20:44.990" UserId="12822" Text="Macbook Air 2015 good for iOS developing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39324" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11440" RevisionGUID="d752f259-5c94-45d9-b828-41ee1113081c" CreationDate="2019-06-26T00:20:44.990" UserId="12822" Text="&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11441" RevisionGUID="bdca092e-c24f-4a89-854a-bfde41ac385e" CreationDate="2019-06-26T02:34:56.003" UserId="10849" Text="LG Gram 17 is very glossy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.google.com/search?q=lg+gram+17+glossy&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwil9PS2jYbjAhUC01kKHSzCCT8Q_AUIESgC&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722&amp;dpr=1.25#imgrc=--RtowIWQAPVUM:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any anti-glare protector? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39327" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11441" RevisionGUID="bdca092e-c24f-4a89-854a-bfde41ac385e" CreationDate="2019-06-26T02:34:56.003" UserId="10849" Text="anti glare protector for LG Gram 17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39328" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11441" RevisionGUID="bdca092e-c24f-4a89-854a-bfde41ac385e" CreationDate="2019-06-26T02:34:56.003" UserId="10849" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39329" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11441" RevisionGUID="ceec52c1-f570-4351-81d4-b3abaac460c9" CreationDate="2019-06-26T02:40:11.437" UserId="10849" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body" Text="LG Gram 17 is very glossy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.notebookcheck.net/LG-Gram-13Z980-A-i5-8250U-Laptop-Review.295858.0.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any anti-glare protector? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11442" RevisionGUID="27e36137-ab02-45eb-8c33-c001a81a96a6" CreationDate="2019-06-26T03:37:45.340" UserId="12824" Text="I need a Desktop computer for Deep Learning research work with large datasets. The models of Deep Learning may be huge and complex, so they may need heavy computations. My budget is INR 250000 i.e., USD 3600. To build the machine from scratch, what will be the recommended parts i.e. CPU, GPU, RAM type and size, Motherboard, HDD/SSD etc? Mentioning the producer names of the parts will be more appreciable. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11442" RevisionGUID="27e36137-ab02-45eb-8c33-c001a81a96a6" CreationDate="2019-06-26T03:37:45.340" UserId="12824" Text="Hardware specification for Deep Learning research" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11442" RevisionGUID="27e36137-ab02-45eb-8c33-c001a81a96a6" CreationDate="2019-06-26T03:37:45.340" UserId="12824" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11446" RevisionGUID="8a296bdb-f194-4a12-a0a5-1d3442f2d2f5" CreationDate="2019-06-26T11:44:42.373" UserId="12547" Text="For a professional it is ok. It's still capable of compiling quite quickly. For a beginner, it will be more than enough. People use way weaker laptops and still make it. Just make sure all of the software you're using is supported on MacOS and you'll be good to go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="bd0d72e1-bf91-4a5e-a21b-9726001d161e" CreationDate="2019-06-26T14:20:06.497" UserId="1687" Comment="Add Asus to candidate list, which I remembered I saw when I first was looking for just a dual-drive system." Text="(This question was originally part of [another one][1], which has been divided in two for clarity.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my search for a new computer, I narrowed my focus to 2-in-1s (convertibles between laptop and tablet) that allow a dual drive configuration (solid state storage plus spinning hard drive). This will give me a helpful combination of speed, storage capacity, and versatility. It narrows my selection a great deal because there aren’t a lot of computers like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tend to buy direct from major manufacturers where I can get a service contract, so I’ve been mainly looking at Dell and HP, and that narrows the selection to just a few models. The following is a complete list of what I've found from those two companies (plus one other that I saw at BestBuy), along with the basic configurations I worked up and their prices including three years of on-site service with coverage for accidental damage and including offered discounts, plus my bottom-line assessment of each one. They are listed in the order I came across them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus [Q536FD-BI7T15][2]&#xD;&#xA;    - 15”, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 256 Gb SSD, 2 Tb HD, $1,900 (don't know if service is on-site)&#xD;&#xA;    - Unknown (to me) manufacturer&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 17 7000 2-in-1][3] ([review][4])&#xD;&#xA;    - 17&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 128 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, $1,430&#xD;&#xA;    - Too bulky&#xD;&#xA;- HP [Pavilion x360 Laptop - 15t][5] ([review][6])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 256 Gb SSD, 1 Tb HD, includes stylus, $940 (accidental damage coverage not available)&#xD;&#xA;    - The review suggests it’s not just inexpensive, but cheap (i.e., not a good value)&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Precision 5530 2-in-1][7] ([review][8])&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i5, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD, space to install HD, $2,487 (excluding HD)&#xD;&#xA;    - Too expensive&#xD;&#xA;- Dell [Inspiron 7590 2-in-1][9]&#xD;&#xA;    - 15&quot;, i7, 16 Gb RAM, 512 Gb SSD (32 Gb Optane), 2 Tb HD, includes stylus, $1,707 (including [HD ordered separately][10] and installed by user)&#xD;&#xA;    - Very attractive set of specs (more than just what's listed here) for reasonable price&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the things that impresses me about the 7590 is that it is one of the very few touch screen computers that incorporate a crevice to hold the stylus when not in use. To me this indicates the engineers were thinking carefully about the design of the whole system. I was astounded to find out how rare this obvious and simple feature is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two drawbacks of the 7590 are that it’s not available with a matte screen, so its use outdoors will be limited, and that it does not have a socket for a Noble lock, which I find handy when I need to step away from the computer for a few minutes. There's also a concern about the available hard drive, which I ask about in a [separate question][11]. Most important, it’s so new that there are no reviews of it yet, so I’ve posted a [separate question][1] to ask if anyone has seen and used it yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’m interested in input from people on this buying decision. Are there other machines I should be considering? I’ll consider buying from a different company if I can be confident of the quality of hardware and availability of service. Or are there few computers like this because it’s not a good idea for some reason?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11351/has-anyone-seen-used-the-dell-inspiron-7590-2-in-1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311.p&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-andnotebooks/inspiron-17-7000-2-in-1/spd/inspiron-17-7786-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Inspiron-17-7786-i7-8565U-16-GB-17-inch-Touch-MX-150-Convertible-Review.403061.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-pavilion-x360-laptop-15t-5tm97av-1?jumpid=cp_r12160_us/en/psg/hp_pavilion_x360/compare/15-shop-now&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Pavilion-x360-15t-X3W72AV-Convertible-Review.186846.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/tablets-and-2-in-1-laptops/precision-5530-2-in-1/spd/precision-15-5530-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-Precision-5530-2-in-1-i7-8706G-Radeon-WX-Vega-M-GL-4K-UHD-Workstation-Review.337352.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops/new-15-2-in-1-black-edition/spd/inspiron-15-7590-2-in-1-laptop&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/accessories/apd/400-AORG&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/11356/is-a-5400-rpm-drive-suitable-in-a-dual-drive-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11449" RevisionGUID="94fdd79e-a983-4066-b6ea-1ba005fe719b" CreationDate="2019-06-26T16:46:07.263" UserId="12833" Text="I have two internal HDD - one laptop and one desktop. The interface is ATA-100/IDE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop - Fujitsu MHV2040AH&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cnet.com/products/fujitsu-mobile-mhv2040ah-hard-drive-40-gb-ata-100-series/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desktop - Maxtor 6Y080L0&#xD;&#xA;https://www.hdsentinel.com/storageinfo_details.php?lang=en&amp;model=MAXTOR%206Y080L0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an enclosure for the above two. What sort of enclosure will work for this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39347" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11449" RevisionGUID="94fdd79e-a983-4066-b6ea-1ba005fe719b" CreationDate="2019-06-26T16:46:07.263" UserId="12833" Text="Enclosure for old IDE hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39348" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11449" RevisionGUID="94fdd79e-a983-4066-b6ea-1ba005fe719b" CreationDate="2019-06-26T16:46:07.263" UserId="12833" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="daec8e4d-3a59-448e-86d0-992fa0531ebd" CreationDate="2019-06-26T17:42:57.170" UserId="12835" Text="I'm currently learning MCUs with TMS570, but I'm also looking for some cheap mcu for general projects. Can you advice me on choosing something:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Cheap&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Easy to buy in CIS (Russia and Ukraine, so, I guess, worldwide shipping)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Availability of entry-level tutorials&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Not AVR (I already have experience with it and I want to learn something new)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your advice, and don't hesitate to tell me what I'm wrong about :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39350" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="daec8e4d-3a59-448e-86d0-992fa0531ebd" CreationDate="2019-06-26T17:42:57.170" UserId="12835" Text="Looking for cheap MCU for projects" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39351" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="daec8e4d-3a59-448e-86d0-992fa0531ebd" CreationDate="2019-06-26T17:42:57.170" UserId="12835" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11323" RevisionGUID="37568818-eb86-428b-91a4-9b6416039d53" CreationDate="2019-06-26T18:08:54.617" UserId="2141" Comment="Clarification why the device is preferred." Text="Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station is working great for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This dock has drivers available to recognize it under both Windows 10, and Mac OS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dock connects via USB 3.0 cable and is preferable in my situation since both of the computers I am using lack the latest USB C ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I got it around US $125.00 that was also well within my budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11452" RevisionGUID="722b7a9e-45a2-49bf-8e4c-3547bdedea9d" CreationDate="2019-06-26T20:27:54.597" UserId="9825" Text="Amazon has one, the Flexzion Anti Glar Protector&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protector-Widescreen-Displays/dp/B01B2P51BO/][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protector-Widescreen-Displays/dp/B01B2P51BO/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11454" RevisionGUID="7052f37c-6da8-4fc0-843e-fcf8130f48c0" CreationDate="2019-06-26T20:42:35.053" UserId="9825" Text="Page 2 of the [spec sheet][1] specifies the Drive Bays as&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cabled options available:  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Up to six 2.5” SATA SSD or SAS drives or Up&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to four 3.5” SAS, nearline SAS, or SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the drive types&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2.5” SATA SSD, SAS (10K)  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3.5” SAS (15K), nearline SAS (7.2K), SATA (7.2K, 5.4K)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I fail to understand why Dell spoke contrary to their own specifications. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please open a command prompt, run &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    wmic computersystem get model,name,manufacturer,systemtype&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;then click [edit] and add the result to your original question; perhaps you have something other than a Dell PowerEdge T110 II?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/pedge/T110_II_Spec_Sheet.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11402" RevisionGUID="eaddd5df-b342-4277-9c32-5d3e410923f9" CreationDate="2019-06-26T23:05:18.997" UserId="12774" Comment="added 156 characters in body" Text="I would like to put two SSD drives into my T110 II and have two 3.5&quot; bays free. I have read in various places that the T110 II doesn't support SSD natively, but I also have a PERC H200 controller with two conventional drives attached, and I have also read in a few places that this should work. All I need is a 2.5&quot; to 3.5&quot; adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I e-mailed Dell to ask for a part number they told me that I can't fit SSD into my configuration, so now I don't know where I stand. They have been unhelpful and unforthcoming, and won't give me the part number I've asked for. They just repeat that it isn't supported and so don't do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please could someone settle this for me: can I put two SSD drives into my tower, in any configuration, but preferably RAID, and if so what adapter could I get to do it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Charles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT] As suggested by K7AAY, the result from WMIC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer: Dell Inc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: PowerEdge T110 II&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Name: MYSERVER&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SystemType: x64-based PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11454" RevisionGUID="69936ee4-977d-49e4-87ce-bec5048495c3" CreationDate="2019-06-26T23:23:33.110" UserId="9825" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="Page 2 of the [spec sheet][1] specifies the Drive Bays as&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Cabled options available:  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Up to six 2.5” SATA SSD or SAS drives or Up&#xD;&#xA;&gt; to four 3.5” SAS, nearline SAS, or SATA drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the drive types&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 2.5” SATA SSD, SAS (10K)  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; 3.5” SAS (15K), nearline SAS (7.2K), SATA (7.2K, 5.4K)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I fail to understand why Dell spoke contrary to their own specifications. Perhaps another try may yield a tech there who's willing to actually read the spec sheet of your system? Or, [have you tried turning it off and then turning it back on again][2]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/pedge/T110_II_Spec_Sheet.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cipher-it.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/ITCrow.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11457" RevisionGUID="db64d1f3-0de8-4501-a7de-3deb5638e561" CreationDate="2019-06-27T02:38:09.110" UserId="12839" Text="So I dug up an old laptop (Lenovo flex 2-15&quot;) because I was looking for something to potentially start gaming on just for fun in spare time and very strongly need a better cpu. It has a i3-4030U 1.9ghz core but the problem is that it is soldered to the motherboard. Is this something that can be undone by professionals and upgraded for cheaper than just buying a new laptop or finding a newer one to upgrade?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39369" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11457" RevisionGUID="db64d1f3-0de8-4501-a7de-3deb5638e561" CreationDate="2019-06-27T02:38:09.110" UserId="12839" Text="replacing a soldered i3-4030u" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39370" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11457" RevisionGUID="db64d1f3-0de8-4501-a7de-3deb5638e561" CreationDate="2019-06-27T02:38:09.110" UserId="12839" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="a97acd2a-a258-4e91-ad2d-ce895d97f3aa" CreationDate="2019-06-27T08:53:38.833" UserId="12844" Text="Currently I have a quite high end laptop to run diverse software in the realm of (software) engineering and simulation/numerics.&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering whether it would make sense to run something like a serer at home or rent cloud space/computation capacity to run calculations faster and just display the results on a mobile device (notebook/tablet).&#xD;&#xA;I am running windows 10 and what I would imagine is to see the screen exactly like I do now but to have the computations done on the server.&#xD;&#xA;Do there exist suitable and practical solutions to that end? I just need some suggestions to start me in the right direction.&#xD;&#xA;My requirements would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - minimum setup effort&#xD;&#xA; - running applications &quot;normally&quot; saying I do not want to code my applications in a way to send out calculations to a server to calculate it, I want to run my OS on the server&#xD;&#xA; - high computation power&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39378" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="a97acd2a-a258-4e91-ad2d-ce895d97f3aa" CreationDate="2019-06-27T08:53:38.833" UserId="12844" Text="Replace high end laptop with server solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39379" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="a97acd2a-a258-4e91-ad2d-ce895d97f3aa" CreationDate="2019-06-27T08:53:38.833" UserId="12844" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11462" RevisionGUID="af174518-184d-440d-bcd6-74a928084fb0" CreationDate="2019-06-27T10:32:13.543" UserId="12847" Text="A web search for Lenovo flex 2 15 processor upgrade gave results that showed that the processor is Ball Grid Array (BGA) soldered so it is not upgradeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While one can technically desolder and re-solder a BGA processor, it would require specialized equipment like a BGA rework station and a lot of skill. It's very unlikely you could find someone to do that for you for a reasonable cost that is less than replacing the laptop. That's if you could even find an appropriate processor to upgrade with." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11463" RevisionGUID="1f2e1d11-ca39-463a-95f0-06354ef7c06c" CreationDate="2019-06-27T10:53:35.740" UserId="12847" Text="I don't know how to tell what is inexpensive for you. There are lots of options for microcontrollers, for examples [this list on Wikipedia][1]. There are options from TI there if you wanted to stick with that, something like the MSP432 might work for you. Otherwise STM32 are ARM Cortex and are inexpensive from China and I assume you can get them easily enough. Also the ESP8266 or ESP32 boards are getting popular. Both STM32 and ESP8266/ESP32 have a lot of tutorials.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_common_microcontrollers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="1a3e3d57-c3c1-416f-8f27-5848318fe9f7" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:32:29.237" UserId="9825" Comment="Added link to specs for motherboard" Text="For now I need to replace the current hard-drive because I heard some loud clicking this morning. I am not in a position to upgrade my full PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is to get the best storage I can with the aim of transferring it to an updated PC next year sometime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For this reason, I am not worried about whether the (discontinued [Intel DH61WW][1], ca. 2011) motherboard bottlenecks performance, etc as long as I can move whatever I buy into a modern Desktop later on (which would then be able to make full use of the NVMe SSD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried looking into whether there is support. But I am having difficulty understanding whether an M.2 slot is required, or if a PCI-e 4x slot will suffice. Is it possible to install a converter (from PCI-e to NVME, etc).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is what I am looking into atm](https://www.evetech.co.za/intel-660p-512gb-nvme-ssd/best-deal/5674.aspx). How does one find out whether I have what is needed to support it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/54876/intel-desktop-board-dh61ww.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39395" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="1a3e3d57-c3c1-416f-8f27-5848318fe9f7" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:32:29.237" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 12733 edit id of 899" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39400" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11467" RevisionGUID="1edf6425-0010-47ab-880f-a2b3338da51d" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:38:53.340" UserId="12854" Text="To avoid long explanations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I have an old server with old code that hosts important data ;&#xD;&#xA;2. The configuration for a new machine will take me a while ;&#xD;&#xA;3. But the old machine MUST run all the time ;&#xD;&#xA;4. The old machine crashes regularly and I have to manually turn it off and on again ;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a device that allows me to remotely turn the computer off and on again by ssh (or something else) and plug it into the power switch pins ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39401" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11467" RevisionGUID="1edf6425-0010-47ab-880f-a2b3338da51d" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:38:53.340" UserId="12854" Text="Remote physical reboot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39402" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11467" RevisionGUID="1edf6425-0010-47ab-880f-a2b3338da51d" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:38:53.340" UserId="12854" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;power-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39422" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11457" RevisionGUID="50a8aeb9-551a-4747-9947-5be073d07022" CreationDate="2019-06-28T18:20:52.230" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="ffc67c1b-7c2f-4096-a3df-bbe3e04f5fff" CreationDate="2019-06-29T06:00:01.287" UserId="12867" Text="**Hello!** So I am wondering if anyone has **any good suggestions** on a **javascript** friendly **thermal printer**. We have thousands of items in our warehouse and no inventory system. I do have the inventory software almost finished.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last step I have is when clicking &quot;Print Label&quot;. is to... **tuh duh**, print label! &#xD;&#xA;*It updates the database from there.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [WHAT I NEED]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have **15 work stations**, and I need **each one to** be able to **print from Safari browser** on an **Ipad**, printing a label to a **wifi label writer** at that work station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been **researching for several days** now. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [WHAT I FIGURE]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Brother** (The printer company) has some really nice printers, but they **do not work with Javascript**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dymo** although it supports JS, only **has one wifi printer**, which is **rather cheap** and **does not work with ios** browser. They also have **terrible documentation**, well actually **next to none**, and they do not offer a community forum on their site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Zebra** seems to **support JS** quite well, but from what I have seen only **through** their own **private web browse**r; which is **not supported on ios**. *(THEY DOCUMENT VERY WELL THOUGH!)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is not much for tutorials when it comes to labelwriting with JS. Should I find a solution **I definitely want to make a yt tutorial to save others the headache.** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Any suggestions, or personal experiences** would be **MUCH appreciated**. Our business is now at 10 years, I do most of the software development when I can... I've developed for about 15 years now. At 10 years though, our warehouse has no inventory tracking! (I'm pretty good at guestimating HA). Anyways, I am hoping to change that. With everything finished except a **not-so-simple label print button**. *Again*, *any help*. **Much appreciated**!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39445" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="ffc67c1b-7c2f-4096-a3df-bbe3e04f5fff" CreationDate="2019-06-29T06:00:01.287" UserId="12867" Text="Finding the right JS Thermal Printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39446" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="ffc67c1b-7c2f-4096-a3df-bbe3e04f5fff" CreationDate="2019-06-29T06:00:01.287" UserId="12867" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11475" RevisionGUID="4c62e9ad-16f8-4f69-b7ed-e72da996ca95" CreationDate="2019-06-29T08:52:54.797" UserId="12868" Text="I want a hub/splitter/device that takes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**input:** one usb-c in (with displayport alternate mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **output 1:** one usb-c video out (displayport alternate mode)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2.  **output 2:** one or more data outputs (can be usb type c or usb type a)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need power delivery. After searching for a long time, I haven't found any device that supports that, despite there being 10.000 different usb hubs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11475" RevisionGUID="4c62e9ad-16f8-4f69-b7ed-e72da996ca95" CreationDate="2019-06-29T08:52:54.797" UserId="12868" Text="USB-C splitter to USB-C video and USB data" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11475" RevisionGUID="4c62e9ad-16f8-4f69-b7ed-e72da996ca95" CreationDate="2019-06-29T08:52:54.797" UserId="12868" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39451" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11476" RevisionGUID="d77c671f-d15e-488a-b7ca-cfb7b1215d54" CreationDate="2019-06-29T11:30:40.563" UserId="10626" Text="If the machine actually *crashes*, you won't be able to SSH it in order to reboot it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you say this is a server machine, your best guess would be to check how the machine is connected to the power grid. Most would be plugged into a **PDU**, and many PDUs can be **administered socket by socket**, so if the machine is unreachable, you can order the PDU to turn off, and then turn back on the specific socket. If the machine is connected directly to an **UPS**, you'll probably have a less granular control, i.e. you'll be able to **turn on and off groups of sockets**, but not individual sockets. It's up to you to determine, in this case, if there can be a reserved group just for this server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once the power is back on, either the server is configured to boot automatically (or you can set this option in the BIOS), or you need to use **Wake-on-LAN** to force it to turn on. Check with your system administrator about the security aspects of Wake-on-LAN, since in many locations, Wake-on-LAN packets would be blocked by default.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If, instead, you're talking not about a hardware server, but a virtual machine, things should be much easier: check the documentation for the virtualization technology that you use in order to know how to force reset a VM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39456" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="1922a1a2-d23f-4919-8baf-68e64350a77e" CreationDate="2019-06-29T18:39:45.617" UserId="12844" Comment="added 428 characters in body; added 151 characters in body" Text="Currently I have a quite high end laptop to run diverse software in the realm of (software) engineering and simulation/numerics.&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering whether it would make sense to run something like a server at home or rent cloud space/computation capacity to run calculations faster and just display the results on a mobile device (notebook/tablet).&#xD;&#xA;I am running windows 10 and what I would imagine is to see the screen exactly like I do now but to have the computations done on the server.&#xD;&#xA;Do there exist suitable and practical solutions to that end? I just need some suggestions to start me in the right direction.&#xD;&#xA;My requirements would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - minimum setup effort&#xD;&#xA; - running applications &quot;normally&quot; saying I do not want to code my applications in a way to send out calculations to a server to calculate it, I want to run my OS on the server&#xD;&#xA; - high computation power&#xA;&#xA;My current laptop is a Lenovo Yoga 260 with Intel Core i7. &#xA;The idea is somehow to avoid the high cost of buying a mobile device with high performance when the same computation power is available cheaper as cloud/server solution and I have a great internet connection. Although the solution should ideally be able to run all my applications on the server and I just use a tablet or something as end device for display and IO.&#xA;Applications I am running often:&#xA;&#xA;- MS Office solutions&#xA;- Chrome browser&#xA;- Matlab (numerical computations)&#xA;- C code&#xA;- Visual Studio&#xA;- Atom text editor&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39457" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="2158e3df-739f-4c34-820a-7f3a686e3648" CreationDate="2019-06-29T18:47:01.620" UserId="12844" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="Currently I have a quite high end laptop to run diverse software in the realm of (software) engineering and simulation/numerics.&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering whether it would make sense to run something like a server at home or rent cloud space/computation capacity to run calculations faster and just display the results on a mobile device (notebook/tablet).&#xD;&#xA;I am running windows 10 and what I would imagine is to see the screen exactly like I do now but to have the computations done on the server.&#xD;&#xA;Do there exist suitable and practical solutions to that end? I just need some suggestions to start me in the right direction.&#xD;&#xA;My requirements would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - minimum setup effort&#xD;&#xA; - running applications &quot;normally&quot; saying I do not want to code my applications in a way to send out calculations to a server to calculate it, I want to run my OS on the server&#xD;&#xA; - high computation power&#xA;- possibility to extend if more is necessary&#xA;- budget: up to 2000 Euro (2300 USD)&#xA;&#xA;My current laptop is a Lenovo Yoga 260 with Intel Core i7. &#xA;The idea is somehow to avoid the high cost of buying a mobile device with high performance when the same computation power is available cheaper as cloud/server solution and I have a great internet connection. Although the solution should ideally be able to run all my applications on the server and I just use a tablet or something as end device for display and IO.&#xA;Applications I am running often:&#xA;&#xA;- MS Office solutions&#xA;- Chrome browser&#xA;- Matlab (numerical computations)&#xA;- C code&#xA;- Visual Studio&#xA;- Atom text editor&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39462" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11479" RevisionGUID="39dc1cfb-d2e4-49d7-8a09-fdc1a4039eb0" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:03:04.317" UserId="12873" Text="What should I upgrade ram or SSD? I have a MacBook pro mid 2012 with 500gb hdd hard drive and 4gb ram. I am a mobile app developer by profession. My hard drive is mainly free with 400+ gb free space. So Should I upgrade the ram or change to SSD?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39463" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11479" RevisionGUID="39dc1cfb-d2e4-49d7-8a09-fdc1a4039eb0" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:03:04.317" UserId="12873" Text="Upgrade ram or SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39464" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11479" RevisionGUID="39dc1cfb-d2e4-49d7-8a09-fdc1a4039eb0" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:03:04.317" UserId="12873" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11480" RevisionGUID="2c5d183f-8ce1-4d8f-8a68-f09c8bdc37f5" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:58:56.660" UserId="12874" Text="I'm looking to replace the 3TB HDD in my 27&quot; iMac with an SSD of equal or greater size. Opening the case is fairly arduous and re-sealing it requires expensive consumables, so this is something I want to get right the first time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had my eye on Samsung's 860 EVO 4TB SSD, currently [$600 from Amazon][1]. I'm pretty sure this would be a good choice. But today I saw Micron's 4TB 5100 ECO series, which is [$350 from OWC][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To my untrained eye these look pretty similar. Reviews of the Micron 5100 imply it's intended for enterprise use in servers, and don't talk at all about using it in consumer desktops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any reason to choose the significantly more expensive Samsung 860 EVO over the Micron? Or can someone recommend a different 4TB SSD that would be better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07864XY8B&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micron/AK3T8TBY1A/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39466" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11480" RevisionGUID="2c5d183f-8ce1-4d8f-8a68-f09c8bdc37f5" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:58:56.660" UserId="12874" Text="4TB SATA SSD for iMac internal: Micron or Samsung?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39467" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11480" RevisionGUID="2c5d183f-8ce1-4d8f-8a68-f09c8bdc37f5" CreationDate="2019-06-30T06:58:56.660" UserId="12874" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11488" RevisionGUID="5aa2d807-c1e8-4e43-ada1-32d3e4861cd7" CreationDate="2019-06-30T14:00:49.503" UserId="12883" Text="I would suggest to monitor your RAM usage during your normal work at the PC. If you only need less than 3 GB, i would go for an SSD upgrade. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39486" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11489" RevisionGUID="b580a0c2-353c-4398-9df2-2fe9dd0ad44d" CreationDate="2019-06-30T14:52:55.377" UserId="10626" Text="Depends entirely on your usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you're thinking about the upgrade, you, supposedly, have performance issues. In */Applications/Utilities/*, you can find *Activity Monitor*. Check the *System Memory* tab when you experience a performance issue to determine whether the memory is an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it appears that the memory is nearly full, chances are you need to extend the memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Next, switch to *Disk Activity* tab and remember what you see there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Download an utility which checks your hard drive speed. I haven't used any tool for Mac OS, so I won't be able to recommend any specific one; you can do a search yourself and chose the one you want. Measure the maximum speed and compare it to what you've seen on the *Disk Activity* tab.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it appears that during the performance issues, your disk usage was near its maximum, buy an SSD. If not, your hard disk drive is perfectly fine for your usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, you may find that you don't need any hardware change, or you need to extend the memory *and* buy an SSD. Act accordingly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="e62459d4-4b0b-4704-a04f-15d4db1a08d1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T10:55:33.863" UserId="12888" Text="I am loocking for a camera (module) that is suitable for Windows hello on Windows IOT Core which runs on a Raspberry Pi. Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39502" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="e62459d4-4b0b-4704-a04f-15d4db1a08d1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T10:55:33.863" UserId="12888" Text="camera for Windows Hello on Windows IOT Core (Raspberry Pi)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39503" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="e62459d4-4b0b-4704-a04f-15d4db1a08d1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T10:55:33.863" UserId="12888" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="7fafa3e5-8ad9-40b4-9b12-63804a0d7916" CreationDate="2019-07-01T15:52:57.810" UserId="10626" Comment="Fixed formatting. Removed typos. Removed elements which are completely irrelevant to the question." Text="I am wondering if anyone has any good suggestions on a JavaScript friendly thermal printer. We have thousands of items in our warehouse and no inventory system. I do have the inventory software almost finished.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The last step I have is when clicking &quot;Print Label&quot;, it should print an actual label.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# What I need&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have 15 work stations, and I need each one to be able to print from Safari browser on an iPad, printing a label to a Wi-Fi label writer at that work station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# What I figured&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Brother (The printer company) has some really nice printers, but they do not work with JavaScript.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dymo, although it supports JavaScript, only has one Wi-Fi printer, which is rather cheap and does not work with iOS browser. They also have terrible documentation, well actually next to none, and they do not offer a community forum on their site.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Zebra seems to support JavaScript quite well, but from what I have seen, only through their own private web browser, which is not supported on iOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is not much for tutorials when it comes to labelwriting with JavaScript.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions, or personal experiences would be much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39512" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="7fafa3e5-8ad9-40b4-9b12-63804a0d7916" CreationDate="2019-07-01T15:52:57.810" UserId="10626" Comment="Fixed formatting. Removed typos. Removed elements which are completely irrelevant to the question." Text="Finding the right JavaScript thermal printer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39513" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11474" RevisionGUID="7fafa3e5-8ad9-40b4-9b12-63804a0d7916" CreationDate="2019-07-01T15:52:57.810" Comment="Proposed by 10626 approved by 60 edit id of 900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39518" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11362" RevisionGUID="da8d94f3-4725-40b2-9f2d-d5654cf977fd" CreationDate="2019-07-01T16:01:00.293" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39520" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11313" RevisionGUID="e5e0a9e9-595f-4910-b24f-bd30b115889a" CreationDate="2019-07-01T16:01:58.907" UserId="60" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39523" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11495" RevisionGUID="57b057b7-dc6d-483c-936e-8c096aac0524" CreationDate="2019-07-01T17:24:19.650" UserId="10626" Text="The top three search results for “windows hello webcam requirements” claim that you need a special infrared, 3D camera:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If Windows Hello doesn’t work, chances are your hardware isn’t compatible. That means your system lacks iris scanning, fingerprint scanning, or a near-infrared 3D camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/what-is-windows-hello/)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A regular webcam will not work with Windows Hello. Windows 10 features Windows Hello, which provides new ways to authentication using biometrics including facial recognition.  Since this is essentially 3-d detection,  a camera with a specialized illuminated infrared camera is required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://www.itprotoday.com/windows-10/q-what-required-use-windows-hello-facial-recognition-logon-windows-10)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; No, common cameras like Logitech C920 does not meet requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Windows Hello face authentication utilizes a camera specially configured for near infrared (IR) imaging to authenticate and unlock Windows devices as well as unlock your Microsoft Passport. Just as you mentioned, “you must have devices with integrated special infrared (IR) sensors and software”.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/9b221801-472d-4b5e-a821-22910e4d1c51/camera-requirements-for-windows-hello-facial-recognition?forum=win10itprosecurity)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Searching specifically for such camera module for Raspberry Pi, or even a simple 3D camera, gives nothing. Nor could I find the list of compatible camera devices anyway—there are just lots of pages from three years ago, promising such a list and giving a dead link.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I found, however, are the projects made by other persons who, as you, wanted to play with Windows Hello, and they all used an external USB camera instead of a Raspberry Pi camera module.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's such example](https://www.hackster.io/windows-iot/windows-iot-facial-recognition-door-e087ce) which relies on Microsoft Lifecam 3000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I haven't a definitive proof, I think there is either no such camera module, or if there is, it is not very popular, and thus won't have enough support to work seamlessly with Windows Hello. If I were you, I'd buy one of the compatible USB cameras instead, even if it means (1) wasting an USB port, (2) losing the warranty as soon as you remove the electronics from the case, and (3) spending much more money then needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="be35e117-aba7-400b-af5e-fbe00017ff44" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:13:52.917" UserId="10626" Comment="Added relevant tag. Fixed minor typos. Explained what Windows Hello is." Text="I'm looking for a camera (module) that is suitable for Windows Hello (Microsoft's biometric facial recognition) on Windows IOT Core which runs on a Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39525" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="be35e117-aba7-400b-af5e-fbe00017ff44" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:13:52.917" UserId="10626" Comment="Added relevant tag. Fixed minor typos. Explained what Windows Hello is." Text="Camera for Windows Hello on Windows IOT Core for Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39526" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="be35e117-aba7-400b-af5e-fbe00017ff44" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:13:52.917" UserId="10626" Comment="Added relevant tag. Fixed minor typos. Explained what Windows Hello is." Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39527" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="be35e117-aba7-400b-af5e-fbe00017ff44" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:13:52.917" Comment="Proposed by 10626 approved by 60 edit id of 902" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39528" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11337" RevisionGUID="91cc7d0d-ea58-4c04-8e77-ca42d1572bd1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:14:50.933" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:48,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Greenonline&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39529" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11460" RevisionGUID="70df61f5-86ac-4d3a-8c64-348422a2faba" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:58:52.077" UserId="60" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39530" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11376" RevisionGUID="67ac8e4f-6ba8-4679-a6d4-455eff1979a1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:59:39.740" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39531" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="725ccceb-9040-4b2c-a922-7959b21d7aec" CreationDate="2019-07-01T20:03:10.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11497" RevisionGUID="ff891292-e588-4530-8fb7-49962cb1c5b1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T21:19:49.703" UserId="1687" Text="I’ve made a decision on this, and it has surprised me. I’ve ordered a computer built by a company that didn’t make computers the last time I bought one, and I ordered it from a company that I’ve never considered a serious place for a computer-literate person to buy a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve ordered the [Asus Q536FD][1] and I’ve ordered it [from Best Buy][2]. It’s available only in one set configuration, but it’s a pretty loaded [configuration][3]. It’s a “2-in-1” design with a 256 Gb SSD and a 2 Tb hard drive. It’s got an  i7 processor with 16 Gb of RAM and NVIDIA graphics running on a 15.6 inch UHD (4k, 3840 x 2160) antiglare display. It comes with Windows 10 Home, which I will need to upgrade to the Pro version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage specs are SATA 3.0 M.2 for the SSD and 5400 rpm SATA for the hard drive. I don’t know enough to judge those specs myself, but I haven’t seen any complaints about them in reviews I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The primary complaint I’ve seen in reviews has been about battery life, but they seem to mostly say not to expect more than about four hours. That’s longer than I’m used to being unplugged for. Strangely, and perhaps suspiciously, the [specs][3] do not state the Watt-hours of the battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy offers a [service contact][4] on the computer, including coverage for accidental damage, at $350 for three-years. I’ve always bought that on my Dell computers and I’ve never made a claim for accidental damage, but I consider it smart insurance to buy, so I did now as well. While the Dell service was for next day on site, this is unfortunately for carry in and any hardware problems will require the store to ship the computer off to their central repair facility for a round trip that could take several weeks, which is a period without my computer that could cause me serious problems. So I hope I never have to use that service contract.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not find any reviews of this model from the professional reviewers, including [NotebookCheck][5]. I did find fairly positive evaluations of Asus itself by [*Consumer Reports*][6] (subscription required, $8 for a month) and *Laptop* magazine ([1][7], [2][8]), and of the Asus Q series by [*Soul of a Geek*][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several customer reviews of the Q536FD:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Amazon has one long and partly undecipherable [customer review][10] that lists ten things he likes about the computer and three he doesn’t and reports being happy with the compute overall.&#xD;&#xA;- Best Buy has [198 customer reviews][11]. I wonder if Best Buy includes all bad reviews posted. It reports having 70% with five stars, 19% with four, 5% with three, and 3% each with two and one. It lists five pros and cons reported by customers:&#xD;&#xA;    - Pros: Speed (63), display (43), Design (17), Touchscreen (18), 4k (17)&#xD;&#xA;    - Cons: Battery life (11), price (6), USB (3), Noise (3), touchpad (4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The first page of reviews that comes up in the site’s default [“most relevant” order][11] shows 20 reviews, of which three have five stars, eleven have four, and two each have three, two, and one star. Six of the reviews have responses from Asus offering either suggestions or help with the stated problems and providing two different e-addresses to reach back to them for help. I wrote to both addresses to ask if I can contact them if I have a problem that is not resolved by Asus’ ordinary warranty support system. I got a reply from one of them saying yes, I could do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    In the 20 reviews on the first page, the most common complaints are battery life and problems with the trackpad, heat, and noise, although other reviews report the trackpad is great and the computer runs quite and not overly hot. Two reviewers reported a problem with pixels of the display going bad, so this appears to be a problem that might occur if I’m unlucky, and it would require service if it does happen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Changing the sort order to [“most recent”][12] changes the first page of 20 to a list that makes me more suspicious about whether the reviews were written by the PR department and not by real customers. Fifteen have five stars, two have four, and three have three. None are detailed and most just consist of a sentence or two saying how wonderful the computer is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Two posts at [Adobe Community][13] and [Microsoft Community][14] complain about problems with scaling of images and text on the 4k display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A [post at Reddit][15] reports a problem with stylus pressure sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No computer is without problems, so those reviews don't dissuade me from buying this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy is currently [offering this computer][2] for $1,400, so the total with the service contract came to $1,750. I’m going to pick up the computer at a local Best Buy in the next day or two, and then I’ll have 15 days to evaluate it with the ability to [return it][16] for a full refund for any reason. So I’m interested to know if anyone has any input to this purchasing decision that either agrees or disagrees with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311.p&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://storage.bestbuy.com/geeksquad/terms/gs_protection_plan/gsp_current_english.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.consumerreports.org/products/laptop/brand-reliability/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-brand-rating&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-tech-support&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.soulofageek.com/asus-q-series-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K35G5GK/#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311?sort=MOST_RECENT&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/2600154&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/display-and-other-issues/5feb3dda-3c58-41b6-a1a3-b36a9612f069&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUS/comments/9xjnti/asus_q536fd_stylus_pressure_sensitivity_issue/&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/help-topics/return-exchange-policy/pcmcat260800050014.c?id=pcmcat260800050014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11500" RevisionGUID="276b21c6-d367-41a2-86be-e5893ea6a46c" CreationDate="2019-07-02T13:03:24.430" UserId="12899" Text="I am making some database app and stuff and I need to run MySQL database somewhere. I was wandering what to choose, because I need it to run all day and I want to run it as docker container...so I was thinking of Raspberry pi, but is it the cheapest way to do it? Aren't there some smaller and more simple devices able to handle docker engine?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11500" RevisionGUID="276b21c6-d367-41a2-86be-e5893ea6a46c" CreationDate="2019-07-02T13:03:24.430" UserId="12899" Text="Devices able to run Docker engine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11500" RevisionGUID="276b21c6-d367-41a2-86be-e5893ea6a46c" CreationDate="2019-07-02T13:03:24.430" UserId="12899" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="6eb0b852-d137-4b71-85d7-b62ba7cb7687" CreationDate="2019-07-02T14:56:27.173" UserId="12900" Text="For our project, we need to buy a robust industrial cabled camera (ethernet or usb) that is waterproof and has good shock resistance (up to ~50 g force), and has M-connectors (for protection). Also, the camera together with its protective housing has some physical constraints. Namely, in order to fit it must be less than 10 cm in the direction of the optical axis for one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such requirements make it hard to find the right suppliers/manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;Software specifications on the other hand are usually not a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm wondering, is there any such industrial camera(s) available anywhere (Preferably in Europe)? A company that sells them is of course also fine (if not better). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, there might be camera housing manufacterers that produce the cases only, such that the camera comforms tho the aformentioned mechanical specifications?  If so, I'm interested in that as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An online search till now yields only few candidate results.&#xD;&#xA;Happy to add more information if not clear.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39549" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="6eb0b852-d137-4b71-85d7-b62ba7cb7687" CreationDate="2019-07-02T14:56:27.173" UserId="12900" Text="Robust Industrial Camera sought which is small enough to fit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39550" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="6eb0b852-d137-4b71-85d7-b62ba7cb7687" CreationDate="2019-07-02T14:56:27.173" UserId="12900" Text="&lt;case&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11497" RevisionGUID="36f76a75-4b2a-4b60-88ab-8060890d18a3" CreationDate="2019-07-02T18:06:09.010" UserId="1687" Comment="Update results of contacting Asus." Text="I’ve made a decision on this, and it has surprised me. I’ve ordered a computer built by a company that didn’t make computers the last time I bought one, and I ordered it from a company that I’ve never considered a serious place for a computer-literate person to buy a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve ordered the [Asus Q536FD][1] and I’ve ordered it [from Best Buy][2]. It’s available only in one set configuration, but it’s a pretty loaded [configuration][3]. It’s a “2-in-1” design with a 256 Gb SSD and a 2 Tb hard drive. It’s got an  i7 processor with 16 Gb of RAM and NVIDIA graphics running on a 15.6 inch UHD (4k, 3840 x 2160) antiglare display. It comes with Windows 10 Home, which I will need to upgrade to the Pro version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage specs are SATA 3.0 M.2 for the SSD and 5400 rpm SATA for the hard drive. I don’t know enough to judge those specs myself, but I haven’t seen any complaints about them in reviews I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The primary complaint I’ve seen in reviews has been about battery life, but they seem to mostly say not to expect more than about four hours. That’s longer than I’m used to being unplugged for. Strangely, and perhaps suspiciously, the [specs][3] do not state the Watt-hours of the battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy offers a [service contact][4] on the computer, including coverage for accidental damage, at $350 for three-years. I’ve always bought that on my Dell computers and I’ve never made a claim for accidental damage, but I consider it smart insurance to buy, so I did now as well. While the Dell service was for next day on site, this is unfortunately for carry in and any hardware problems will require the store to ship the computer off to their central repair facility for a round trip that could take several weeks, which is a period without my computer that could cause me serious problems. So I hope I never have to use that service contract.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not find any reviews of this model from the professional reviewers, including [NotebookCheck][5]. I did find fairly positive evaluations of Asus itself by [*Consumer Reports*][6] (subscription required, $8 for a month) and *Laptop* magazine ([1][7], [2][8]), and of the Asus Q series by [*Soul of a Geek*][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several customer reviews of the Q536FD:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Amazon has one long and partly undecipherable [customer review][10] that lists ten things he likes about the computer and three he doesn’t and reports being happy with the compute overall.&#xD;&#xA;- Best Buy has [198 customer reviews][11]. I wonder if Best Buy includes all bad reviews posted. It reports having 70% with five stars, 19% with four, 5% with three, and 3% each with two and one. It lists five pros and cons reported by customers:&#xD;&#xA;    - Pros: Speed (63), display (43), Design (17), Touchscreen (18), 4k (17)&#xD;&#xA;    - Cons: Battery life (11), price (6), USB (3), Noise (3), touchpad (4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The first page of reviews that comes up in the site’s default [“most relevant” order][11] shows 20 reviews, of which three have five stars, eleven have four, and two each have three, two, and one star. Six of the reviews have responses from Asus offering either suggestions or help with the stated problems and providing two different e-addresses to reach back to them for help. I wrote to both addresses to ask if I can contact them if I have a problem that is not resolved by Asus’ ordinary warranty support system. I got a reply from one of them four hours later, and from the other one the next day, both saying yes, I could do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    In the 20 reviews on the first page, the most common complaints are battery life and problems with the trackpad, heat, and noise, although other reviews report the trackpad is great and the computer runs quite and not overly hot. Two reviewers reported a problem with pixels of the display going bad, so this appears to be a problem that might occur if I’m unlucky, and it would require service if it does happen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Changing the sort order to [“most recent”][12] changes the first page of 20 to a list that makes me more suspicious about whether the reviews were written by the PR department and not by real customers. Fifteen have five stars, two have four, and three have three. None are detailed and most just consist of a sentence or two saying how wonderful the computer is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Two posts at [Adobe Community][13] and [Microsoft Community][14] complain about problems with scaling of images and text on the 4k display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A [post at Reddit][15] reports a problem with stylus pressure sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No computer is without problems, so those reviews don't dissuade me from buying this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy is currently [offering this computer][2] for $1,400, so the total with the service contract came to $1,750. I’m going to pick up the computer at a local Best Buy in the next day or two, and then I’ll have 15 days to evaluate it with the ability to [return it][16] for a full refund for any reason. So I’m interested to know if anyone has any input to this purchasing decision that either agrees or disagrees with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311.p&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://storage.bestbuy.com/geeksquad/terms/gs_protection_plan/gsp_current_english.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.consumerreports.org/products/laptop/brand-reliability/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-brand-rating&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-tech-support&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.soulofageek.com/asus-q-series-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K35G5GK/#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311?sort=MOST_RECENT&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/2600154&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/display-and-other-issues/5feb3dda-3c58-41b6-a1a3-b36a9612f069&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUS/comments/9xjnti/asus_q536fd_stylus_pressure_sensitivity_issue/&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/help-topics/return-exchange-policy/pcmcat260800050014.c?id=pcmcat260800050014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="161caae7-9f5a-4805-81a0-1bcc1711e797" CreationDate="2019-07-02T21:46:07.760" UserId="12906" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and not heavily resource intensive apps like games, cad design, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 25%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 25% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations.  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="f5db949d-b2a4-4594-8538-69369b4e3951" CreationDate="2019-07-02T21:52:28.917" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and not heavily resource intensive apps like games, cad design, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with elss than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations.  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="847064b2-f7ed-471c-852c-1a341fb4c358" CreationDate="2019-07-02T21:57:41.523" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and not heavily resource intensive apps like games, cad design, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files).  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="20a6f33f-4abe-491c-9639-65b6a1655ff4" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:07:19.490" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and not heavily resource intensive apps like games, cad design, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files).  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM, having enough to run the OS and needs is first priority - to stay away from using the Virtual Memory backup (additional Virtual RAM on the slower HDD/SSD). After this, topping off your speed from the minimum to the maximum supported by your Motherboard+CPU can provide some additional performance but usually not as significant of an increase as switching from HDD to SSD and increasing RAM on a system that constantly relies on Virtual Memory (doesn't have enough RAM to meet your needs). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39561" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="329c018a-a27c-459b-af23-0f35114e520e" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:12:43.330" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and not heavily resource intensive apps like games, cad design, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files).  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM, having enough to run the OS and needs is first priority - to stay away from using the Virtual Memory backup (additional Virtual RAM on the slower HDD/SSD). After this, topping off your speed from the minimum to the maximum supported by your Motherboard+CPU can provide some additional performance but usually not as significant of an increase as switching from HDD to SSD and increasing RAM on a system that constantly relies on Virtual Memory (doesn't have enough RAM to meet your needs). Faster memory speed is more noticeable in specific applications, but many mistaken it to significantly help increase things like FPS in gaming which is more dependent on the CPU and GPU. Often the cost/performance ratio may not be worth the upgrade if you're only increasing the ram speed a few levels up what's supported, but going from the minimum to maximum supported by a Mobo+CPU may still be worthwhile after the storage speed and capacity are taken care of first.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: Replacing an HDD with an SSD is usually the best way to revive an older system like a 2012 MacBook Pro - even with under-capacity RAM, you'll see a significant boost because even the Virtual Memory is getting upgraded lol.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39562" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="707abff7-604c-48b6-8c63-543eb44e37dc" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:18:23.073" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and if not heavily resource intensive app development like games, design, cad, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files).  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM, having enough to run the OS and needs is first priority - to stay away from using the Virtual Memory backup (additional Virtual RAM on the slower HDD/SSD). After this, topping off your speed from the minimum to the maximum supported by your Motherboard+CPU can provide some additional performance but usually not as significant of an increase as switching from HDD to SSD and increasing RAM on a system that constantly relies on Virtual Memory (doesn't have enough RAM to meet your needs). Faster memory speed is more noticeable in specific applications, but many mistaken it to significantly help increase things like FPS in gaming which is more dependent on the CPU and GPU. Often the cost/performance ratio may not be worth the upgrade if you're only increasing the ram speed a few levels up what's supported, but going from the minimum to maximum supported by a Mobo+CPU may still be worthwhile after the storage speed and capacity are taken care of first.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: Replacing an HDD with an SSD is usually the best way to revive &amp; boost an older system like a 2012 MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11506" RevisionGUID="fac1c5f1-0dea-4f97-a865-9f6c767641e1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:24:45.080" UserId="10156" Text="So I'm on the search for a new gaming headset I go through headsets like crazy due to the fact that I constantly drop things. Dropped item with wire plugged in = damaged wire. So I finally got off my high horse and decided to buy a wireless headset, the real question is how to I get one that works across my countless devices with fairly low latency. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have lunbuntu 18.04 which is gnome based, windows 10 home, an android lg k20 plus with android nougat, an Iphone (not sure which version) with ios 12.1.4, and plan to buy a macbook at some point in the future. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really care about that fancy control stuff like razer synapse as long as the sound quality and microphone are fairly good without it. My budget is 200 usd. If I have to prioritize then I'd say ios and linux minimum but being cross platform would be really nice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm fine with going through the ever ensuing terminal headache as long as there are instructions to show me how to do it without breaking something. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39564" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11506" RevisionGUID="fac1c5f1-0dea-4f97-a865-9f6c767641e1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:24:45.080" UserId="10156" Text="A wireless gaming headset that works for linux, windows, macosx, andriod, and ios" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39565" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11506" RevisionGUID="fac1c5f1-0dea-4f97-a865-9f6c767641e1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:24:45.080" UserId="10156" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11505" RevisionGUID="c9cc3e1b-e4e6-40ec-9ddb-69203b241b6b" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:25:50.907" UserId="12906" Comment="edited body" Text="Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and if not heavily resource intensive app development like games, design, cad, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance.  I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance.  There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance of [SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space][1] due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files).  This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM, having enough to run the OS and needs is first priority - to stay away from using the Virtual Memory backup (additional Virtual RAM on the slower HDD/SSD). After this, topping off your speed from the minimum to the maximum supported by your Motherboard+CPU can provide some additional performance but usually not as significant of an increase as switching from HDD to SSD and increasing RAM capacity on a system that constantly relies on Virtual Memory (doesn't have enough RAM to meet your needs). Faster memory speed is more noticeable in specific applications, but many mistaken it to significantly help increase things like FPS in gaming which is more dependent on the CPU and GPU. Often the cost/performance ratio may not be worth the upgrade if you're only increasing the ram speed a few levels up what's supported, but going from the minimum to maximum supported by a Mobo+CPU may still be worthwhile after the storage speed and capacity are taken care of first.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR: Replacing an HDD with an SSD is usually the best way to revive &amp; boost an older system like a 2012 MacBook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Notes: &#xD;&#xA;-New MacBook Pros have RAM soldered to the motherboard and can't be upgraded without replacing the entire board with the same compatible board with more RAM (rage table flip indeed). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Be sure to check the maximum RAM capacity and speed supported by your motherboard (verify CPU support on the RAM speed too).  All 2012 MacBook Pros support up to 16GB Ram." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39567" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="1e3f515b-02ea-4592-8dec-62848fd6a526" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:35:34.550" UserId="12900" Comment="added 402 characters in body" Text="For our project, we need to buy a robust industrial cabled camera (ethernet or usb) that is waterproof and has good shock resistance (up to ~50 g force), and has M-connectors (for protection). Also, the camera together with its protective housing has some physical constraints. Namely, in order to fit it must be less than 10 cm in the direction of the optical axis for one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such requirements make it hard to find the right suppliers/manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;Software specifications on the other hand are usually not a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm wondering, is there any such industrial camera(s) available anywhere (Preferably in Europe)? A company that sells them is of course also fine (if not better). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, there might be camera housing manufacterers that produce the cases only, such that the camera comforms tho the aformentioned mechanical specifications?  If so, I'm interested in that as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An online search till now yields only few candidate results.&#xD;&#xA;Happy to add more information if not clear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;**edit**&#xA;&#xA;The industrial setting that warrant these mechanical requirements is one in a container terminal, where the camera is attached beneath a crane.&#xA;&#xA;Optical requirements are simply that the camera needs to be able to take rgb pictures of a resolution of at least 512 by 512 pixels.&#xA;&#xA;The camera needs to be able to send this data via a cabled connection (no wireless connectivity available)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39568" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11506" RevisionGUID="493313b0-0f15-4b61-84e0-c722bac57845" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:50:59.710" UserId="10156" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="**The problem in general**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm on the search for a new gaming headset. I go through headsets like crazy due to the fact that I constantly drop things. Dropped item with wire plugged in = damaged wire. So I finally got off my high horse and decided to buy a wireless headset. The real question? How to I get one that works across my countless devices? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Works with the following OS: &#xD;&#xA; - Lunbuntu 18.04 &#xD;&#xA;  - windows 10 home&#xD;&#xA;  - android nougat &#xD;&#xA;  - ios 12.1.4&#xD;&#xA;  - mac osx 10.14&#xD;&#xA;- Comfortable for long play sessions&#xD;&#xA;- Fairly low latency&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Preferred but not required:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  surround sound that works on linux, macosx, and windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Things I don't really care about:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Fancy control stuff like razer synapse as long as the sound quality and microphone are fairly good without it. &#xD;&#xA;- The ever ensuing terminal headache as long as there are instructions to show me how to do it without breaking something.&#xD;&#xA;- Connecting to multiple devices at once&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 200 usd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39569" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11506" RevisionGUID="3f39b765-697c-4758-9e33-6bd60caded04" CreationDate="2019-07-02T22:56:09.303" UserId="10156" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="A wireless gaming headset that works for linux, windows, macosx, andriod, and ios under 200 usd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11508" RevisionGUID="f2081fd0-b5a5-4b0e-b1d5-ce85c6c2665b" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:42:24.857" UserId="2092" Text="I am looking for a new Android smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;I currently have the Huawei Honor 8.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my phone primarily for the following things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Phone Calls&#xD;&#xA; - WhatsApp&#xD;&#xA; - &quot;Gaming&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Playing music, via headphones or Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - Navigation&#xD;&#xA; - Web Browsing&#xD;&#xA; - A few other Apps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gaming is in quotation marks because I play a lot on the phone, but no high end 3d games, more casual games and such things. That means I don't need peak graphic performance, but a good, long lasting battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have some requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Long lasting battery&#xD;&#xA; - headphone jack&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint sensor&#xD;&#xA; - USB Type-C with fast Charge&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD slot&#xD;&#xA; - good display&#xD;&#xA; - big screen, 6&quot;+&#xD;&#xA; - decent memory (32GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Good LTE and WiFi connection&#xD;&#xA; - As less bloatware as possible&#xD;&#xA; - Not Huawei...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have my phone connected to my car via Bluetooth for playing music via Spotify. The Huawei has a lot of problems keeping the connection, seems to be a common problem with that phone, so I guess a stable Bluetooth connection is also a requirement...&#xD;&#xA;Material is not a big concern, but it would be nice if it doesn't break the first time I drop it =)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't really care about cameras or dualSim or other fancy stuff.&#xD;&#xA;Speaker doesn't have to be top notch, I only use it for phone calls or for my alarm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 350€ (I'm from Germany if that matters...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found the Samsung Galaxy A50 or A70, they look promising.&#xD;&#xA;I also read a lot of good things about Xiaomi, but I don't really know the brand...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What would you recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39583" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11508" RevisionGUID="f2081fd0-b5a5-4b0e-b1d5-ce85c6c2665b" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:42:24.857" UserId="2092" Text="Long lasting, reliable Smartphone, 350€ max" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39584" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11508" RevisionGUID="f2081fd0-b5a5-4b0e-b1d5-ce85c6c2665b" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:42:24.857" UserId="2092" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11511" RevisionGUID="b39903fe-db42-4b4b-b1a5-3dd3eec24d95" CreationDate="2019-07-03T14:09:21.713" UserId="12913" Text="I bought a Xiaomi for my Dad last year. Having played with his for a while, I was blown away by how much phone you get for your money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My vote would be for the [Xiaomi Redmi Note 7][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the review on that site, the pros for this phone are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Impressive performance &#xD;&#xA; - Long-lasting battery &#xD;&#xA; - Great screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Off to a good start!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It comes with a fingerprint reader, dual sim (which one can be used for a microsd, filling that requirement), headphone jack, 6,3&quot; HD screen, 64GB storage, and USB connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All that for [£179/200€ on Amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.trustedreviews.com/reviews/xiaomi-redmi-note-7&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xiaomi-Redmi-Note-Snapdragon-4000mAh/dp/B07PM21BDM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11517" RevisionGUID="ea507b04-5092-4fbe-9bdc-0f39b80cc7de" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:55:58.453" UserId="1410" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to play around with LoRa/LoRaWan and BT5/BLE on an ESP32. I would like to pair the ESP32 with my Windows laptop and do some server side development on the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you recommend a cheap Windows compatible USB dongle?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39609" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11517" RevisionGUID="ea507b04-5092-4fbe-9bdc-0f39b80cc7de" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:55:58.453" UserId="1410" Text="Windows USB dongle for LoRa/LoRaWan and BT5/BLE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39610" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11517" RevisionGUID="ea507b04-5092-4fbe-9bdc-0f39b80cc7de" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:55:58.453" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;&lt;lora&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11518" RevisionGUID="e4cd3229-c294-42a8-8364-07dd68829708" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:58:48.580" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39612" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11518" RevisionGUID="e4cd3229-c294-42a8-8364-07dd68829708" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:58:48.580" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11519" RevisionGUID="eccec952-f44c-4229-b6b6-f9b68a10212d" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:58:48.580" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11519" RevisionGUID="eccec952-f44c-4229-b6b6-f9b68a10212d" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:58:48.580" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39617" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11521" RevisionGUID="bb4ecb1e-fc53-4f96-8f44-4cec97685d98" CreationDate="2019-07-04T12:07:41.023" UserId="12920" Text="What exactly difference between Video Capture rate, Frame Rate and Refresh Rate in video processing ?&#xD;&#xA;Can we change FPS of CPU graphics ie. rate of Frame per second or not? if yes then how ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39618" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11521" RevisionGUID="bb4ecb1e-fc53-4f96-8f44-4cec97685d98" CreationDate="2019-07-04T12:07:41.023" UserId="12920" Text="difference between Video Capture rate , Frame Rate and Refresh Rate in video processing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39619" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11521" RevisionGUID="bb4ecb1e-fc53-4f96-8f44-4cec97685d98" CreationDate="2019-07-04T12:07:41.023" UserId="12920" Text="&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39623" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="01e5dc0f-3430-4085-9e1e-3052d1eee571" CreationDate="2019-07-04T15:01:06.570" UserId="12900" Comment="87" />
  <row Id="39624" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11523" RevisionGUID="d936b0dd-5e63-4ed3-949f-d9a563e7d426" CreationDate="2019-07-04T15:03:00.480" UserId="12923" Text="Before explaining what's **Video Capture rate**, let's read what's **Refresh Rate** and **Frame Rate**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Refresh rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Refresh rate represents how many times the actual TV, video display, or projected **screen image is completely reconstructed every second**. The idea is that the **more times the screen is &quot;refreshed&quot; every second, the smoother the image is** in terms of motion rendering and flicker reduction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, the image looks better the faster the screen can refresh itself. **Refresh rates** of televisions and other types of video displayed are measured in &quot;Hz&quot; (Hertz). For example, a television with a 60hz refresh rate represents a complete reconstruction of the screen image 60 times every second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a result, this also means that each video frame (in a 30 frame per second signal) is repeated twice every 60th of a second. By looking at the math, one can easily figure out how other frame rates relate to other refresh rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Frame rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remember those cool little flip books where a pad of paper had an image on every page, and when you flipped through the pages quickly, the image would appear to animate and move? This is essentially how video works. Whether digital or old-school film, **video is a series of still images** that, when viewed in order at a certain speed, give the appearance of motion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://techsmith-13.wistia.com/medias/bzujp1kl5e?embedType=async&amp;videoFoam=true&amp;videoWidth=640 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Frame rate** is the speed at which those images are shown, or how fast you “flip” through the book and it’s usually expressed as “frames per second,” or FPS. **Each image represents a frame**, so if a video is captured and played back at 24fps, that means each second of video shows 24 distinct still images. **The speed at which they’re shown tricks your brain into perceiving smooth motion**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Video Capture rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Capture rate** is just on how many FPS (**Frames Per Second**) the video will be **captured/recorded**. As we read above, with more FPS the video stay smoother, and with less FPS, it stays more &quot;laggy&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's talk about&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GPU Frame rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**FPS can easily change** while you're using the computer. **Heavy tasks** like playing games can **decrease your Frame Rate**, while just using your Browser it's almost not going to change FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Higher resolutions decrease FPS, since the image to load is heavier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many ways of **increasing your FPS**, I suggest [this](http://blog.logicalincrements.com/2014/06/frames-per-second-5-simple-tips-to-boost-your-fps/) website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sources: https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855, https://www.techsmith.com/blog/frame-rate-beginners-guide/ and my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this satisfies your doubts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Brhaka" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11497" RevisionGUID="d096e3f4-8168-4233-87af-91ff440d5500" CreationDate="2019-07-04T22:58:47.973" UserId="1687" Comment="Add battery spec and another customer review." Text="I’ve made a decision on this, and it has surprised me. I’ve ordered a computer built by a company that didn’t make computers the last time I bought one, and I ordered it from a company that I’ve never considered a serious place for a computer-literate person to buy a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve ordered the [Asus Q536FD][1] and I’ve ordered it [from Best Buy][2]. It’s available only in one set configuration, but it’s a pretty loaded [configuration][3]. It’s a “2-in-1” design with a 256 Gb SSD and a 2 Tb hard drive. It’s got an  i7 processor with 16 Gb of RAM and NVIDIA graphics running on a 15.6 inch UHD (4k, 3840 x 2160) antiglare display. It comes with Windows 10 Home, which I will need to upgrade to the Pro version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage specs are SATA 3.0 M.2 for the SSD and 5400 rpm SATA for the hard drive. I don’t know enough to judge those specs myself, but I haven’t seen any complaints about them in reviews I found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The primary complaint I’ve seen in reviews has been about battery life, but they seem to mostly say not to expect more than about four hours. That’s longer than I’m used to being unplugged for. Strangely, and perhaps suspiciously, the [specs][3] do not state the Watt-hours of the battery. (Edit: It's on the label on the computer box: 57 WHr.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy offers a [service contact][4] on the computer, including coverage for accidental damage, at $350 for three-years. I’ve always bought that on my Dell computers and I’ve never made a claim for accidental damage, but I consider it smart insurance to buy, so I did now as well. While the Dell service was for next day on site, this is unfortunately for carry in and any hardware problems will require the store to ship the computer off to their central repair facility for a round trip that could take several weeks, which is a period without my computer that could cause me serious problems. So I hope I never have to use that service contract.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not find any reviews of this model from the professional reviewers, including [NotebookCheck][5]. I did find fairly positive evaluations of Asus itself by [*Consumer Reports*][6] (subscription required, $8 for a month) and *Laptop* magazine ([1][7], [2][8]), and of the Asus Q series by [*Soul of a Geek*][9].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several customer reviews of the Q536FD:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There's a glowing [video review][10] that compares this computer favorably to Microsoft's Surface Book 2 selling for twice the price.&#xD;&#xA;- Amazon has one long and partly undecipherable [customer review][11] that lists ten things he likes about the computer and three he doesn’t and reports being happy with the compute overall.&#xD;&#xA;- Best Buy has [198 customer reviews][12]. I wonder if Best Buy includes all bad reviews posted. It reports having 70% with five stars, 19% with four, 5% with three, and 3% each with two and one. It lists five pros and cons reported by customers:&#xD;&#xA;    - Pros: Speed (63), display (43), Design (17), Touchscreen (18), 4k (17)&#xD;&#xA;    - Cons: Battery life (11), price (6), USB (3), Noise (3), touchpad (4)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The first page of reviews that comes up in the site’s default [“most relevant” order][12] shows 20 reviews, of which three have five stars, eleven have four, and two each have three, two, and one star. Six of the reviews have responses from Asus offering either suggestions or help with the stated problems and providing two different e-addresses to reach back to them for help. I wrote to both addresses to ask if I can contact them if I have a problem that is not resolved by Asus’ ordinary warranty support system. I got a reply from one of them four hours later, and from the other one the next day, both saying yes, I could do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    In the 20 reviews on the first page, the most common complaints are battery life and problems with the trackpad, heat, and noise, although other reviews report the trackpad is great and the computer runs quite and not overly hot. Two reviewers reported a problem with pixels of the display going bad, so this appears to be a problem that might occur if I’m unlucky, and it would require service if it does happen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Changing the sort order to [“most recent”][13] changes the first page of 20 to a list that makes me more suspicious about whether the reviews were written by the PR department and not by real customers. Fifteen have five stars, two have four, and three have three. None are detailed and most just consist of a sentence or two saying how wonderful the computer is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Two posts at [Adobe Community][14] and [Microsoft Community][15] complain about problems with scaling of images and text on the 4k display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A [post at Reddit][16] reports a problem with stylus pressure sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No computer is without problems, so those reviews don't dissuade me from buying this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best Buy is currently [offering this computer][2] for $1,400, so the total with the service contract came to $1,750. I’m going to pick up the computer at a local Best Buy in the next day or two, and then I’ll have 15 days to evaluate it with the ability to [return it][17] for a full refund for any reason. So I’m interested to know if anyone has any input to this purchasing decision that either agrees or disagrees with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311.p&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/Q536FD/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://storage.bestbuy.com/geeksquad/terms/gs_protection_plan/gsp_current_english.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.consumerreports.org/products/laptop/brand-reliability/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-brand-rating&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/asus-tech-support&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.soulofageek.com/asus-q-series-review/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcUW0z-DfW8&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K35G5GK/#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311&#xD;&#xA;  [13]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/reviews/asus-2-in-1-15-6-4k-ultra-hd-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-2tb-hdd-256gb-ssd-gun-metal-gray/6292311?sort=MOST_RECENT&#xD;&#xA;  [14]: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/2600154&#xD;&#xA;  [15]: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/display-and-other-issues/5feb3dda-3c58-41b6-a1a3-b36a9612f069&#xD;&#xA;  [16]: https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUS/comments/9xjnti/asus_q536fd_stylus_pressure_sensitivity_issue/&#xD;&#xA;  [17]: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/help-topics/return-exchange-policy/pcmcat260800050014.c?id=pcmcat260800050014" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39627" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5707" RevisionGUID="4a678532-9fec-456c-b1cb-4a5725474ef1" CreationDate="2019-07-04T23:12:08.107" UserId="84" Comment="Typo" Text="I just came across a great hybrid (depending on the exact use case): The [Automatic Pro](https://www.automatic.com/pro/) plugs into a vehicle's OBD-II port, transmits location updates every 20 seconds when the vehicle is in motion, and draws its power from the car.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it's an &quot;active&quot; tracker, but the $130 purchase price includes &quot;at least&quot; 5 years of 3G data service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's not exactly what was specified: It's somewhat traceable, it requires access to the inside of the vehicle to place, and it would be readily noticed by anybody checking the vehicle's OBD port ... unless connected and concealed off a splitter cable.  But on the plus side it offers real-time tracking, IFTTT, and other integration and safety features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39632" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10936" RevisionGUID="0cc8611f-4237-45d0-828c-71ab0e0b90c9" CreationDate="2019-07-05T02:01:50.213" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11523" RevisionGUID="62a49b7b-0813-41cd-adb8-e8340a529599" CreationDate="2019-07-05T12:55:35.637" UserId="12923" Comment="added explanation for new questions" Text="Before explaining what's **Video Capture rate**, let's read what's **Refresh Rate** and **Frame Rate**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Refresh rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Refresh rate represents how many times the actual TV, video display, or projected **screen image is completely reconstructed every second**. The idea is that the **more times the screen is &quot;refreshed&quot; every second, the smoother the image is** in terms of motion rendering and flicker reduction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, the image looks better the faster the screen can refresh itself. **Refresh rates** of televisions and other types of video displayed are measured in &quot;Hz&quot; (Hertz). For example, a television with a 60hz refresh rate represents a complete reconstruction of the screen image 60 times every second.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a result, this also means that each video frame (in a 30 frame per second signal) is repeated twice every 60th of a second. By looking at the math, one can easily figure out how other frame rates relate to other refresh rates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Frame rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remember those cool little flip books where a pad of paper had an image on every page, and when you flipped through the pages quickly, the image would appear to animate and move? This is essentially how video works. Whether digital or old-school film, **video is a series of still images** that, when viewed in order at a certain speed, give the appearance of motion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://techsmith-13.wistia.com/medias/bzujp1kl5e?embedType=async&amp;videoFoam=true&amp;videoWidth=640 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Frame rate** is the speed at which those images are shown, or how fast you “flip” through the book and it’s usually expressed as “frames per second,” or FPS. **Each image represents a frame**, so if a video is captured and played back at 24fps, that means each second of video shows 24 distinct still images. **The speed at which they’re shown tricks your brain into perceiving smooth motion**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Video Capture rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Video Capture rate** is just on how many FPS (**Frames Per Second**) the video will be **captured/recorded**. As we read above, with more FPS the video stay smoother, and with less FPS, it stays more &quot;laggy&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now let's talk about&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# GPU Frame rate:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**FPS can easily change** while you're using the computer. **Heavy tasks** like playing games can **decrease your Frame Rate**, while just using your Browser it's almost not going to change your Frame Rate (**FPS**).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Higher resolutions decrease Frame Rate (**FPS**), since the image to load is heavier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many ways of **increasing your FPS**, I suggest [this](http://blog.logicalincrements.com/2014/06/frames-per-second-5-simple-tips-to-boost-your-fps/) website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Related:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; How is the frame capture rate and Refresh rate depends upon each other?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Remember that **FPS is how many frames your computer is producing or drawing**, while the **refresh rate is how many times the monitor is refreshing the image** on the screen. The refresh rate (**Hz**) of your monitor does not affect the frame rate (**FPS**) your **GPU** will be outputting. However, if your **FPS** is higher than your refresh rate, your display will not be able to display all of the frames your computer is producing, so although the refresh rate doesn’t technically limit the frame rate, it does effectively set a cap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If I have 60Hz monitor then how much fps Video Capture card needed so that I don't want to loose any frame while capturing through video?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As we read above, the refresh rate (**Hz**) doesn't really matter if we're speaking about frame rate (**FPS**), so just record your video at **60 FPS** and it's all set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sources: https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855, https://www.techsmith.com/blog/frame-rate-beginners-guide/, https://www.avadirect.com/blog/frame-rate-fps-vs-hz-refresh-rate/ and my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this satisfies your doubts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Brhaka" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39647" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11402" RevisionGUID="bece1a63-63f0-4134-b73a-e48ab46841ba" CreationDate="2019-07-05T17:38:52.193" UserId="12774" Comment="added 511 characters in body" Text="I would like to put two SSD drives into my T110 II and have two 3.5&quot; bays free. I have read in various places that the T110 II doesn't support SSD natively, but I also have a PERC H200 controller with two conventional drives attached, and I have also read in a few places that this should work. All I need is a 2.5&quot; to 3.5&quot; adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I e-mailed Dell to ask for a part number they told me that I can't fit SSD into my configuration, so now I don't know where I stand. They have been unhelpful and unforthcoming, and won't give me the part number I've asked for. They just repeat that it isn't supported and so don't do it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please could someone settle this for me: can I put two SSD drives into my tower, in any configuration, but preferably RAID, and if so what adapter could I get to do it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Charles&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[EDIT] As suggested by K7AAY, the result from WMIC:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Manufacturer: Dell Inc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Model: PowerEdge T110 II&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Name: MYSERVER&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SystemType: x64-based PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: I purchased two Samsung V-NAND 860 QVO 2Tb SATA 6Gb/s drives and connected them to the two remaining cables in my server. Ctrl+C at boot-up to start the PERC H200 Config Utility and selected the drives in RAID 1 formation. It took nearly 24 hours to complete initialisation, but I discovered that I could actually use the drives during that time. They work perfectly, so yah boo sucks to Dell for bad (wrong) information. I have challenged them on this but they have not replied (no surprise there)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11519" RevisionGUID="cf0ba94e-61ec-4f52-aa74-c30226222ec2" CreationDate="2019-07-06T01:03:27.917" UserId="1410" Comment="added 417 characters in body" Text="Semtech's LoRa devices and wireless radio frequency technology (LoRa Technology) is a long range, low power wireless chipset that is used in a lot of Internet of Things (IoT) networks worldwide. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LoRa Technology enables a variety of smart IoT applications aimed at  solving challenges like energy management, natural resource reduction, pollution control, infrastructure efficiency, disaster prevention, and more. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39654" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11519" RevisionGUID="cf0ba94e-61ec-4f52-aa74-c30226222ec2" CreationDate="2019-07-06T01:03:27.917" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 57 edit id of 904" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39671" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11521" RevisionGUID="6d8f97df-3f3e-45c0-b79e-7d049b2bb264" CreationDate="2019-07-06T18:02:32.970" UserId="7556" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39683" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11500" RevisionGUID="6f092945-c129-4eb9-9cf8-abf7e3bb818c" CreationDate="2019-07-06T18:16:27.423" UserId="7556" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11534" RevisionGUID="51825270-7dc2-49bd-8bd7-a457efa084c5" CreationDate="2019-07-06T19:20:21.987" UserId="10710" Text="I am looking to make my PC a little more quiet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I game sometimes I can hear my stock 4690k fan speed up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am trying to figure out what my best option is for quiet cpu coolers at a reasonable price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked at the Hyper212 evo, but that seems to have a pretty fast fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any CPU heatsinks out there that come without the fan, so I can potentially look for a really quiet fan separately?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, with a 4690k at stock speed, is there potential to possible use a fanless cpu cooler?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39689" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11534" RevisionGUID="51825270-7dc2-49bd-8bd7-a457efa084c5" CreationDate="2019-07-06T19:20:21.987" UserId="10710" Text="Quiet Cpu Cooler for 4690k @ stock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39690" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11534" RevisionGUID="51825270-7dc2-49bd-8bd7-a457efa084c5" CreationDate="2019-07-06T19:20:21.987" UserId="10710" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11535" RevisionGUID="080bdb1d-0d48-4b6c-ae3e-faf39c308117" CreationDate="2019-07-06T21:16:40.853" UserId="7291" Text="I'm looking for a GPS receiver that has an extremely long battery life. Off-the-shelf GPS devices like the [Garmin GPSMAP 64s](https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/140022) are great, but they only go so far: they promise 16h of battery life. Having owned a [Garmin eTrex Legend HCx](https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/8701) for a long time, I'm not impressed by this: my device is over a decade old and promised *25 hours* of battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In practice, this means at *most* two or three days of trekking. I want something that will last me for a *week* or more. The goal is to track my position so I can see, later on, where I've been *but* it would also be extremely useful if the device could display, on demand, its current location. This, ideally, would be done with a map like the above Garmin devices but I could live with plain longitude/latitude on a tiny LCD, which I could then transpose on a paper map.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;GPS loggers&quot; with longer battery lives (beyond 40 hours, like the [Qstarz BT-Q818XT](http://racing.qstarz.com/Products/BT-Q818XT.html)) do not have any sort of display that report their location, which is pretty annoying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My use case is I do long distance trekking traveling, and I travel fairly light. No solar panels or recharge capacity, and I'm offline for days. I'd like to have a device that can keep track of my travel, but also tell me where I am in a pinch. It doesn't have to have a fancy display or maps or Bluetooth or any stuff like that. Simpler is better, and I have a phone for the fancy stuff when necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in short, I'm looking for a GPS receiver that is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* light&#xD;&#xA;* rugged, ideally waterproof&#xD;&#xA;* long-lasting (40h+ battery life, or 5 hours/day for 8 days)&#xD;&#xA;* capable of reporting the current location somehow (map or current coordinates)&#xD;&#xA;* standard (normal USB cable or SD card for transferring data on a Linux computer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a sailing expedition, I remember seeing someone with a tiny GPS tracker they would wear on their neck. It was about the size of a wrist watch and would just show the current location, continuously, on an LCD screen. It was able to track for the entire two weeks of the trip, although I believe it might have needed a recharge on the boat's power at some point. I unfortunately can't find that thing anywhere anymore and forgot to ask that person which device it was.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39694" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11535" RevisionGUID="080bdb1d-0d48-4b6c-ae3e-faf39c308117" CreationDate="2019-07-06T21:16:40.853" UserId="7291" Text="GPS tracker with long battery life and minimal display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39695" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11535" RevisionGUID="080bdb1d-0d48-4b6c-ae3e-faf39c308117" CreationDate="2019-07-06T21:16:40.853" UserId="7291" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39699" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11431" RevisionGUID="8429fa08-d37d-4f78-ac5b-0d12e0f0453b" CreationDate="2019-07-06T23:41:27.587" UserId="9526" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;},{&quot;Id&quot;:9526,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Catija&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39704" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11536" RevisionGUID="fc140f11-38a6-4261-9315-2d00a5bb06ea" CreationDate="2019-07-07T02:14:35.580" UserId="7618" Text="I am looking for a headset that at each earphone also have one microphone on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Goal is to not only listen in stereo but also record in stereo **based on the very ear natural position**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably wireless (bluetooth probably).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is to use with a smartphone (preferably android).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I am having trouble to ask about that on google...)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39705" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11536" RevisionGUID="fc140f11-38a6-4261-9315-2d00a5bb06ea" CreationDate="2019-07-07T02:14:35.580" UserId="7618" Text="is there any headset with 2 microphones (one at each ear)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39706" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11536" RevisionGUID="fc140f11-38a6-4261-9315-2d00a5bb06ea" CreationDate="2019-07-07T02:14:35.580" UserId="7618" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39717" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11291" RevisionGUID="b09eee07-9a5f-4bf4-9bcd-6c6ae2947576" CreationDate="2019-07-07T21:01:25.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11541" RevisionGUID="5c0bd092-357e-4a20-b55d-0eb1df737876" CreationDate="2019-07-07T21:37:09.393" UserId="10626" Text="This is not how audio recording works. The position of your ears is irrelevant for a recording device, because there are better, more compact ways to record stereo sound.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's how a stereo microphone capsule for a professional recorder looks like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those things at the very top are two microphones which are positioned very closely together, but, thanks to their orientation, give a perfect stereo sound which could closely match what you would hear. The thing which allows you to guess how the sound will be reordered is called a *polar pattern*; different types of microphones are optimized for different patterns:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance, there are microphones which would record *everything* around them (corresponds to omnidirectional pattern below), as there are microphones which would attempt to narrow on the sound coming from a precise direction (corresponds to shotgun pattern; those are for instance most of the microphones you see at TV news crew: their goal is to record a voice of a person being interviewed, while reducing as much as possible the ambient noise, such as the voices from the crowd).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Back to stereo recording, there are microphones for smartphones as well. Rode, for instance, [has a model][3] for iPhones. Same for Zoom [with its iQ6](https://www.zoom-na.com/products/handy-recorder/zoom-iq6-professional-stereo-microphone-ios).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a bunch of other ones from other companies, relatively easy to find on Google, but all seem to be for iOS only. When it comes to Android, the only thing I've found is an [article from 2016](https://www.geeky-gadgets.com/external-high-quality-stereo-android-microphone-unveiled-by-optivelox-29-02-2016/) about a Kickstarter project for a stereo microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be to buy a stereo microphone not specifically designed to work with smartphones, such as [Rode's VideoMic pro][4]. I'm not sure, however, what would be the audio quality, since smartphones are not really for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the same time, if you need good quality, you *have* to invest in a recorder. Some good ones could be found for less than $300.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d0Cvd.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3ynq.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://en.rode.com/microphones/ixy&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://en.rode.com/microphones/stereovideomicpro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39737" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="bdda0682-b703-4958-bdb1-160244a2e377" CreationDate="2019-07-08T13:12:25.017" UserId="12900" Comment="added 892 characters in body" Text="For our project, we need to buy a robust industrial cabled camera (ethernet or usb) that is waterproof and has good shock resistance (up to ~50 g force), and has M-connectors (for protection). Also, the camera together with its protective housing has some physical constraints. Namely, in order to fit it must be less than 10 cm in the direction of the optical axis for one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Such requirements make it hard to find the right suppliers/manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;Software specifications on the other hand are usually not a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm wondering, is there any such industrial camera(s) available anywhere (Preferably in Europe)? A company that sells them is of course also fine (if not better). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, there might be camera housing manufacterers that produce the cases only, such that the camera comforms tho the aformentioned mechanical specifications?  If so, I'm interested in that as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An online search till now yields only few candidate results.&#xD;&#xA;Happy to add more information if not clear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;**Edit 01**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The industrial setting that warrant these mechanical requirements is one in a container terminal, where the camera is attached beneath a crane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optical requirements are simply that the camera needs to be able to take rgb pictures of a resolution of at least 512 by 512 pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera needs to be able to send this data via a cabled connection (no wireless connectivity available).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**Edit 02**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind of product we are selling involves lifting equipment for (shipping) containers. This camera hardware I described is used in combination with a *recognition algorithm* written by our company, that senses variables like presence/positioning et cetera, which is ultimately used for automation. So the only real use of this camera is that we simply need images, taken of our object of interest (containers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But right now, we want to use it to speed up the working cycle (picking and placing) by a few seconds per cycle. So for the product to be feasible for us, it ought not be more expensive than say ~1000 euros in my estimation (preferably much less). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So it's not like we *can't afford* anything more expensive, rather it's just that we do not have any use for it, considering it facilicates just one of many features of our overall machine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11545" RevisionGUID="4a8b0c6c-dacc-4980-aeeb-cd1194236ea5" CreationDate="2019-07-08T14:12:36.457" UserId="12946" Text="If you look at pcpartpicker.com under CPU coolers, they have a lot of great filtering options. For example...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here][1] is a list of available CPU coolers that don't come with fans. Even at stock it probably won't be possible to find a passive CPU cooler unless you have some big fans for your case that are pushing a lot of air through, which from this post, sounds like you don't want to have. Most of the ones in this list are meant to be bought with the purpose of adding your own fans, in which case you probably want some quiet Noctua fans. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here][2] is a CPU cooler with one of the lowest sound ratings on the site. Scythe, while not a super well-known brand among most consumers, is known to be one of the best cooler designers with a good combination of quiet and performance. I put smaller model in my uncle's PC and it has been working great for him. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want the king of quiet and performance, you'll want something by Noctua. [Here][3] is a list of Noctua coolers sorted by how loud they are. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that these noise ratings/filters are not final and are subject to many other factors, like the case you have and if they're put into a PWM fan port on your MOBO, among other things.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#F=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YsHRsY/scythe-fuma-2-5117-cfm-cpu-cooler-scfm-2000&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#c=30&amp;sort=db&amp;m=99&amp;page=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11548" RevisionGUID="79c020f0-4d2d-4e1b-892b-19cc8bcd9d5a" CreationDate="2019-07-08T17:04:27.943" UserId="12949" Text="My employer wants wifi on three sides of the building outside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First question: Would I be able to chain 2-3 routers with one modem plug and an Ethernet splitter? As long as the signals don't overlap and I set IP ranges to avoid conflicts with requests? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second question: what would your recommendation be to extend wifi to the outside area of my building? The parking lot is a large square. The building is a square in the middle of that big square, with thick concrete walls. I doubt my employers will be ok with a pole sticking out of the top of their business. I need wifi to be accessible on only 3 side of the lot, and it is OK if they're different networks. It would be cool to have them all be the same network, though. That way people could walk around the building without being disconnected. Suggestions? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11548" RevisionGUID="79c020f0-4d2d-4e1b-892b-19cc8bcd9d5a" CreationDate="2019-07-08T17:04:27.943" UserId="12949" Text="Questions about extending wifi to outside" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11548" RevisionGUID="79c020f0-4d2d-4e1b-892b-19cc8bcd9d5a" CreationDate="2019-07-08T17:04:27.943" UserId="12949" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11549" RevisionGUID="d6088f8f-0652-4c37-8167-59e80c8cc6de" CreationDate="2019-07-08T17:34:31.857" UserId="10648" Text="I can answer your first question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, it is possible to attach several routers to an ethernet **switch** (not a splitter) and have that switch also connected to an internet gateway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you set up all of the routers as &quot;Access Points&quot; (no DHCP, no NAT) then they can all share the same wifi SSID and allow clients to hop between them while keeping their IP addresses. This still requires one DHCP server running somewhere on the network, which is probably the main router serving as your internet gateway already.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you set up all of the routers normally (WAN -&gt; Switch -&gt; Gateway) then each SSID/router will be its own network and you do not even need to set their IP ranges to be different. A device that has all 3 SSIDs remembered will automatically connect to the SSID that it prefers and this might be a simple and &quot;good enough&quot; solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Make sure each router/AP is set to a unique channel (not auto) and ensure that those channels are spread out as much as possible to ensure good performance. (i.e. 1, 6, 11)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your second question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suppose that you may really need to look for &quot;Access Points&quot; rather than routers. You can definitely find access points intended for outdoor installation that will have much higher signal power than a normal home/business router." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11550" RevisionGUID="abaf75ca-f2e1-4ec4-aa55-1959bd34d524" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:19:00.487" UserId="12427" Text="Regarding the hardware, all, or almost, noise cancelling headphones are equipped with one mic in each ear.&#xA;&#xA;However, I do not think they can be hacked in order to reach your goal." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="e3ad0d57-37c8-4a14-bd9e-a9c924a6d3e0" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:56:25.800" UserId="1808" Text="The task sounds simple the aim is to send an ʜᴅᴍɪ signal from computer to large ᴛᴠ where the 2 can’t fit in the same room at the same time…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There’s 7 meters gap between the 2 devices… and a concrete floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#What I searched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard a 60Ghz radio solution can’t be used in this situation because it can be almost stopped by a paper sheet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard that the bandwidth of 5Ghz device would allow transmitting the signal so I bought an ʜᴘ Wireless ʜᴅᴍɪ transmitter operating on that band : and the compression is so high that the quality is definitely better on 640×480×16 ᴄʀᴛ.  &#xD;&#xA;**Maybe a 5Ghz transmitter on that band would be able to transmit the video in a way which can be considered lossless and that I just didn’t found the right device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then one would arg to just use a wired solution. However with the distance to reach the stair and hallway what is 7 meter radio gap becomes a 35 meters wire. Of course, with such a long wire the quality is just as bad as with wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How to solve this ? As the ᴛᴠ runs on Webos and supports 802.11 Wi‑Fi with 270Mb/s real speed (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be Ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39763" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="e3ad0d57-37c8-4a14-bd9e-a9c924a6d3e0" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:56:25.800" UserId="1808" Text="Way to send a 1080p60Hz ʜᴅᴍɪ signal over a floor with the same loss level than a 6 meter cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39764" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="e3ad0d57-37c8-4a14-bd9e-a9c924a6d3e0" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:56:25.800" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39765" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="6cc35212-b924-435e-97ce-eee51cf207c4" CreationDate="2019-07-08T20:11:32.520" UserId="1808" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="The task sounds simple the aim is to send an ʜᴅᴍɪ signal from computer to large ᴛᴠ where the 2 can’t fit in the same room at the same time…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There’s 7 meters gap between the 2 devices… and a concrete floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#What I searched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard a 60Ghz radio solution can’t be used in this situation because it can be almost stopped by a paper sheet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard that the bandwidth of 5Ghz device would allow transmitting the signal so I bought an ʜᴘ Wireless ʜᴅᴍɪ transmitter operating on that band : and the compression is so high that the quality is definitely better on 640×480×16 ᴄʀᴛ.  &#xD;&#xA;**Maybe a 5Ghz transmitter on that band would be able to transmit the video in a way which can be considered lossless and that I just didn’t found the right device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then one would arg to just use a wired solution. However with the distance to reach the stair and hallway what is 7 meter radio gap becomes a 35 meters wire. Of course, with such a long wire the quality is just as bad as with wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How to solve this ? As the ᴛᴠ runs on Webos and supports 802.11 Wi‑Fi with 270Mb/s real speed (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be Ok.  &#xD;&#xA;There’s definitely must be a way : with ᴅᴠʙ‑ᴛ I can record 14 channels all at 1080p30Hz at the same time (with a single Tuner) with almost no compression and a frequency well below 1Gz." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11554" RevisionGUID="5045b431-c7fb-41e6-bd58-8c04225b88f3" CreationDate="2019-07-08T22:52:37.740" UserId="12954" Text="For a while, I am wondering to develop a car speedometer screen. There are so many free open source choices (Qt sample, raspberry Pi, etc ). All these free solutions are based on a CPU and operating system. Naturally they take some time too boot. But, I was wondering how the real systems do start immediately? Do they apply FPGA in their designs or they use special embedded Linux? Finally, what would you suggest to start with? CPU or FPGA &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11554" RevisionGUID="5045b431-c7fb-41e6-bd58-8c04225b88f3" CreationDate="2019-07-08T22:52:37.740" UserId="12954" Text="What is the best choice for car speedometer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11554" RevisionGUID="5045b431-c7fb-41e6-bd58-8c04225b88f3" CreationDate="2019-07-08T22:52:37.740" UserId="12954" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;automation&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39773" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11536" RevisionGUID="fcd5c414-6615-459b-946b-e3043402fa36" CreationDate="2019-07-08T23:06:34.273" UserId="7618" Comment="added 437 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a headset that at each earphone also have one microphone on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Goal is to not only listen in stereo but also record in stereo **based on the very ear natural position**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably wireless (bluetooth probably).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is to use with a smartphone (preferably android).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I am having trouble to ask about that on google...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;thx on all tips and info, here some more details to narrow it more:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So recording in stereo can be from a single spot/origin place, could so be the actual one (in the headset near the stop/cont and volume controls). https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/11541/7618  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to record each channel individually to further equalize each based on each ear's necessity (like what is done by &quot;adapt sound&quot; android's feature), and noise filtering could be thru software also.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11555" RevisionGUID="25860830-49f1-4304-8289-9fb7d206043c" CreationDate="2019-07-09T00:49:57.563" UserId="12955" Text="So I have an old HP laptop which died years ago. I removed the 2.5 Seagate HDD and wanting to use it as external hdd.&#xA;&#xA;However I am confused as to what type of enclosure should be used.&#xA;&#xA;Fyi I have little knowledge in hdd and all that stuff, so I found out there are 4 'jumper pins' .&#xA;&#xA;The problem is when I browse the available enclosure they only have the SATA connectors and the jumper pins doesn't seem to connect anywhere. At least from my perception&#xA;&#xA;I just wanna make sure before buying&#xA;Is this okay/supposed to be this way?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Thanks in advance&#xA;&#xA;*Im using stackexchange app and it doesn't allow me to post images, I dont know why&#xA;But the HDD is 320GB Seagate Momentus 5400.6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39775" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11555" RevisionGUID="25860830-49f1-4304-8289-9fb7d206043c" CreationDate="2019-07-09T00:49:57.563" UserId="12955" Text="2.5 inch HDD enclosure with jumper pins?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39776" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11555" RevisionGUID="25860830-49f1-4304-8289-9fb7d206043c" CreationDate="2019-07-09T00:49:57.563" UserId="12955" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11559" RevisionGUID="1c3fab32-119f-4a88-b663-18cda10eb7cf" CreationDate="2019-07-09T17:04:54.663" UserId="10626" Text="**It is supposed to be this way.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those jumper pins are not used to be connected to *something*. Instead, you use *jumper shunts* to connect the pins together. A jumper shunt, by the way, is this thing that you can see on many motherboards, or on all old IDE hard disk drives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The goal is to be able to specify a bunch of options, such as slowing the transfer rate down, or, in the case of IDE drives, it was used to distinguish between the master and the slave. The exact use of those jumpers depends on the manufacturer and the model. In the case of Seagate Momentus 5400.6:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; If the host system does not support SATA 3Gb/s operation, place a jumper on pins 1 and 2 to limit the drive to 1.5Gb/s operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: [PDF manual][2], page 32.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It doesn't tell what would happen if you put a jumper shunt on pins 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, or put two jumpers together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Notice that the manual tells explicitly on page 2 that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  It is not normally necessary to set any jumpers or other configuration options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, just use an ordinary enclosure, connecting SATA *and* power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOjcj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/support/disc/manuals/notebook/momentus/5400.6%20(Wyatt)/100528359e.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39787" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11560" RevisionGUID="e99378dd-cbcb-46c5-bcc8-26d84e4eaf12" CreationDate="2019-07-09T17:29:02.767" UserId="10626" Text="&gt; I was wondering how the real systems do start immediately?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They don't?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A simple Google search [reveals][1], for instance, that Tesla boot time is ways longer than the one of a Raspberry Pi. I'm not even talking about devices other than cars. Most home routers need a minute or two to boot, and where I work, a Xerox machine takes up to ten minutes to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In a case of a car, there are possibilities to mitigate the risk for the driver to find himself in front of a boot screen. The most obvious approach is to **avoid shutting down the system in the first place**. To save power, the system may be **turned off *partially***, very similarly to what happens when you put your PC on sleep: it takes less than a second to wake it up, but when on sleep, it doesn't consume too much power, although it still receives signals from the keyboard or the mouse or keeps powering the RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another (complementary) approach is to **wake the system up *before* the person reaches the steering wheel**. From the moment the person unlocks the car, it takes about ten seconds to open the door, sit down, close the door and fasten the seat belt—largely enough to boot a Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And finally, you have electronics which don't need any operating system and don't have a notion of “boot time.” **Arduino** is a good example: you can receive information from sensors or display stuff on a screen, while it takes no time to boot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, with **specialized hardware and custom operating system**, you can get a boot time of a few milliseconds. DSLRs are a great example of that: unlike cheap point-and-shoot cameras which take seconds to boot, most DSLRs can start shooting photos practically as soon as you turn them on. But [they don't use Linux][2], and they don't use CPUs similar to the one used by Raspberry Pi: instead, it's all proprietary, designed *exclusively* for a specific task. You won't be able to install an Apache server on your Canon DSLR, and you won't even be able to watch .mpg videos on a Nikon DSLR which cas the capability of shooting (and playing back) videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://forums.tesla.com/forum/forums/computer-takes-while-boot-when-getting-car&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://photo.stackexchange.com/q/35185/2236" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11562" RevisionGUID="c9f62450-7222-40d4-8ef1-3b9006312064" CreationDate="2019-07-10T03:56:35.773" UserId="12965" Text="I need to buy good computer to work with R for looping 20 millions rows without problems of memory, or cpu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39793" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11562" RevisionGUID="c9f62450-7222-40d4-8ef1-3b9006312064" CreationDate="2019-07-10T03:56:35.773" UserId="12965" Text="What is a good computer to work with R, looping 20 millions rows?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39794" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11562" RevisionGUID="c9f62450-7222-40d4-8ef1-3b9006312064" CreationDate="2019-07-10T03:56:35.773" UserId="12965" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11564" RevisionGUID="a03b44e3-9b30-46cd-a1bf-c0978b73faa0" CreationDate="2019-07-10T06:34:37.950" UserId="12967" Text="you can buy Atomic pi which will cost you 43$ if you stay in india then  you can't get it you have to buy it from us ( amazon.com ) and all the costum duty charges and shipment charge will make around 111$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Pi-High-Speed-Peripheral/dp/B07N298F2Bpecs: intel processor&#xD;&#xA;              2 gb ram  &#xD;&#xA;and rest you find out from google " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39799" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="6d3795fb-ff34-48ba-bc15-54b2e75bc3e0" CreationDate="2019-07-10T13:02:35.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11565" RevisionGUID="763fac47-a749-4500-bcea-f92b4da72eb0" CreationDate="2019-07-10T19:20:30.227" UserId="12970" Text="I have a laptop and an xbox/nintendo switch. All of them are connected to a HDMI splitter with audio extractor. The audio extractor is hooked up to speakers. The audio works on the speakers for the gaming consoles, but not detected at all from the laptop. For the laptop, the audio comes from the laptop still. I am trying to get the laptop audio to come from the speakers too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now I'm considering getting some sort of spliter where I can connect the laptop audio out to, and the HDMI splitter to, and the output will be connected to the speakers. Is there such a device/cable for this? Some sort of spliter/switch for audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If looking on amazon, I would need amazon.ca.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39801" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11565" RevisionGUID="763fac47-a749-4500-bcea-f92b4da72eb0" CreationDate="2019-07-10T19:20:30.227" UserId="12970" Text="How to get two audio outputs to 1 speaker?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39802" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11565" RevisionGUID="763fac47-a749-4500-bcea-f92b4da72eb0" CreationDate="2019-07-10T19:20:30.227" UserId="12970" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39824" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="b8fafaa8-5787-4f32-bdcc-e9c25f6f3bac" CreationDate="2019-07-11T11:02:35.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39827" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="ad87c32d-041c-4268-ba1b-e370b516143b" CreationDate="2019-07-11T14:23:15.463" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="The task sounds simple the aim is to send an ʜᴅᴍɪ signal from computer to large ᴛᴠ where the 2 can’t fit in the same room at the same time…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There’s 7 meters gap between the 2 devices… and a concrete floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#What I searched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard a 60Ghz radio solution can’t be used in this situation because it can be almost stopped by a paper sheet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard that the bandwidth of 5Ghz device would allow transmitting the signal so I bought an ʜᴘ Wireless ʜᴅᴍɪ transmitter operating on that band : and the compression is so high that the quality is definitely better on 640×480×16 ᴄʀᴛ.  &#xD;&#xA;**Maybe a 5Ghz transmitter on that band would be able to transmit the video in a way which can be considered lossless and that I just didn’t found the right device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then one would argue to just use a wired solution. However with the distance to reach the stair and hallway what is 7 meter radio gap becomes a 35 meters wire. Of course, with such a long wire the quality is just as bad as with wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How to solve this ? As the ᴛᴠ runs on Webos and supports 802.11 Wi‑Fi with 270Mb/s real speed (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be OK.  &#xD;&#xA;There’s definitely must be a way : with ᴅᴠʙ‑ᴛ I can record 14 channels all at 1080p30Hz at the same time (with a single Tuner) with almost no compression and a frequency well below 1Gz." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39828" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="ad87c32d-041c-4268-ba1b-e370b516143b" CreationDate="2019-07-11T14:23:15.463" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="Way to send a 1080p 60Hz ʜᴅᴍɪ signal over a floor with the same loss level as a 6 meter cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39829" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="ad87c32d-041c-4268-ba1b-e370b516143b" CreationDate="2019-07-11T14:23:15.463" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1808 edit id of 907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39833" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10368" RevisionGUID="d1e9fa53-fd39-4392-ad03-582524086560" CreationDate="2019-07-11T16:00:45.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39837" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11573" RevisionGUID="7c8c100e-2481-4449-a410-9bd3f9d4987c" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:27:48.537" UserId="12982" Text="My motherboard AX370-Gaming K5-CF has 2 Sata Express ports as depicted in the manual in page 17 between the normal sata ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manualga-ax370-gaming-k5_e.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On top of the ports it says &quot;Lotes&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering what cable fits in there. I bought a standard esata cable online but it's double the size this port has. The cable I bought is this one  but it's double the width. Like a normal sata cable whilst the port is half the size&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBZ6e.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39838" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11573" RevisionGUID="7c8c100e-2481-4449-a410-9bd3f9d4987c" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:27:48.537" UserId="12982" Text="What type of esata cable should I buy to connect to this port on my MB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39839" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11573" RevisionGUID="7c8c100e-2481-4449-a410-9bd3f9d4987c" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:27:48.537" UserId="12982" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39840" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11574" RevisionGUID="8a81663f-9d1a-4cbc-bacf-d65ac7407b49" CreationDate="2019-07-11T19:51:52.780" UserId="10626" Text="The small one is *not* the SATA Express connector. Each SATA Express connector consists of two ordinary SATA connectors *and* the small one, all in line.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here, you see two SATA Express connector on the motherboard: a used one and a free one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similarly, here's a SATA Express cable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may also be interested by [What Is SATA Express?][3] article.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/00MCX.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFXib.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/7843/testing-sata-express-with-asus/2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39849" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11548" RevisionGUID="e4e7faec-b574-4d08-a5fc-7ff258ad3565" CreationDate="2019-07-12T02:55:58.167" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39851" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11554" RevisionGUID="d8d64081-05e6-48f7-9bdc-df08b5bda92d" CreationDate="2019-07-12T03:01:43.710" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11578" RevisionGUID="50a314f3-df11-4281-ba4b-290e41548afe" CreationDate="2019-07-12T12:52:23.407" UserId="1921" Text="32GB of RAM is $300-400 which you could add to any computer and load 24GB into RAM and of course this is the fastest.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From there M.2 NVM SSD 128GB or larger would be easy to come by and fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new AMD Ryzen chips support PCIe 4 so a PCIe 4.0 M.2 NVM SSD would be the fastest.  Nearly 5gb/s read and 4.4 write.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously you can RAID them together, and achieve even higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A ryzen 3000 series, motherboard, and RAM are around $1000 depending on which CPU you get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't already have them a video card,case,power supply, and misc would be even more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11580" RevisionGUID="f34c812a-bab0-4fd4-bded-feebb8b6e3fe" CreationDate="2019-07-12T13:55:41.513" UserId="12991" Text="I'm planning a small irrigation project for a home, indoor garden. I'd like to control water to four different plants using a Raspberry Pi and a single water source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for something like this [4 way hose faucet](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Melnor-4-Way-Hose-Faucet-Connection-9009/202881087), but it needs to be electronic so that the Pi can control it (probably via a relay). I can find single solenoid valves, but haven't found anything that can handle 4 outputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Needs to be metal, not plastic. I'd prefer brass.&#xD;&#xA; - Budget: No idea. I'm going to guess less than $100, but I'm very flexible with that&#xD;&#xA; - Physical size: I'd like to keep it roughly the size of the faucet I linked above&#xD;&#xA; - Pressure: Needs to support normal water pressure from a hose spigot on the side of the house. Also needs to be able to support low pressure (I'm debating between having a gravity fed water basin versus just hooking up the hose. I'd like to support both applications.&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like it to be normally closed, so that if I lose power, the water doesn't just start flowing everywhere. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I'm not sure what tags to put on this. Hopefully it's on topic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39861" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11580" RevisionGUID="f34c812a-bab0-4fd4-bded-feebb8b6e3fe" CreationDate="2019-07-12T13:55:41.513" UserId="12991" Text="Looking for a 4 output brass, electronic, water valve" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39862" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11580" RevisionGUID="f34c812a-bab0-4fd4-bded-feebb8b6e3fe" CreationDate="2019-07-12T13:55:41.513" UserId="12991" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39863" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11581" RevisionGUID="70c5ab95-71f2-4eb2-93da-80cbc98e9a4b" CreationDate="2019-07-12T14:19:44.903" UserId="12992" Text="If I were trying to detect cellphones by detecting their rf communication with cell towers I would need an antenna and an rf detector which connects to the antenna. Cell phones operate at a variety of frequencies, from 700MHz to upwards of 2600MHz (at least as I have seen from my limited research).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not very well versed in rf, but it seems that in order to be able to reasonably detect cell phones I would need an rf antenna that has a somewhat broad range. Maybe 800MHz to 1500MHz. Is this a reasonable antenna? Most of the small rf antennas for embedded devices seem to be specd for a single frequency, and have somewhat low gain for frequencies lower or higher than the set one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to even detect this range with a single antenna?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for my lack of rf experience." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39864" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11581" RevisionGUID="70c5ab95-71f2-4eb2-93da-80cbc98e9a4b" CreationDate="2019-07-12T14:19:44.903" UserId="12992" Text="Need a somewhat broad rf antenna to detect cellphone rf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39865" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11581" RevisionGUID="70c5ab95-71f2-4eb2-93da-80cbc98e9a4b" CreationDate="2019-07-12T14:19:44.903" UserId="12992" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39866" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="11502" RevisionGUID="afaeab43-78d6-4af9-828d-60efe8103d38" CreationDate="2019-07-12T16:02:20.300" UserId="-1" Comment="87" />
  <row Id="39894" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="3896c1cb-0ae3-45b7-89be-04dc952af055" CreationDate="2019-07-13T01:01:35.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39909" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="10a94df9-249a-4156-8e6e-496702885ad9" CreationDate="2019-07-13T12:03:20.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="39910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11588" RevisionGUID="6b4caabf-bedb-4511-9e7b-ced86c6a4f5c" CreationDate="2019-07-13T12:39:25.820" UserId="13006" Text="**GA-B150M-D3H** - https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B150M-D3H-rev-10/sp#sp :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage Interface:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 x M.2 Socket 3 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280 SATA &amp; PCIe x4/x2/x1 SSD support)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 ssd** - https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/149407/intel-ssd-660p-series-1-0tb-m-2-80mm-pcie-3-0-x4-3d2-qlc.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39911" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11588" RevisionGUID="6b4caabf-bedb-4511-9e7b-ced86c6a4f5c" CreationDate="2019-07-13T12:39:25.820" UserId="13006" Text="GA-B150M-D3H motherboard and PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 ssd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39912" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11588" RevisionGUID="6b4caabf-bedb-4511-9e7b-ced86c6a4f5c" CreationDate="2019-07-13T12:39:25.820" UserId="13006" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39913" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11588" RevisionGUID="65e285f1-082a-4bd4-9673-1a6960b28281" CreationDate="2019-07-13T12:44:33.287" UserId="13006" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11594" RevisionGUID="f1f8e702-a9af-4043-95bd-fd460cf0dc50" CreationDate="2019-07-14T05:03:08.603" UserId="13013" Text="We have a public server that provides mirror service for a variety of open-source software, like Ubuntu, Debian, CentOS and PyPI, RubyGems, CPAN, etc. Our daily outgoing network goes from 8 TB to 10 TB and all our disks are running at 95% or higher. We've been running short of storage capacity for some time and are looking for some expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're looking for an expansion array with around 40 TB of raw storage (sum of all disks) with enough I/O performance. We also want to reduce the cost, although we're not trying too hard to minimize it. Our server has an empty PCIe 3.0 x16 slot and two free optical fiber ports for connecting with the new array. The cabinet is free such that anything under 6U should fit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39928" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11594" RevisionGUID="f1f8e702-a9af-4043-95bd-fd460cf0dc50" CreationDate="2019-07-14T05:03:08.603" UserId="13013" Text="Affordable expansion array for a public mirror server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39929" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11594" RevisionGUID="f1f8e702-a9af-4043-95bd-fd460cf0dc50" CreationDate="2019-07-14T05:03:08.603" UserId="13013" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39930" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11594" RevisionGUID="c9d49749-7703-4acb-9e3d-ee855fa49bbf" CreationDate="2019-07-14T05:24:54.613" UserId="13013" Comment="" Text="We have a public server that provides mirror service for a variety of open-source software, like Ubuntu, Debian, CentOS and PyPI, RubyGems, CPAN, etc. Our daily outgoing network goes from 10 TB to 12 TB and all our disks are running at 95% or higher. We've been running short of storage capacity for some time and are looking for some expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We're looking for an expansion array with around 40 TB of raw storage (sum of all disks) with enough I/O performance. We also want to reduce the cost, although we're not trying too hard to minimize it. Our server has an empty PCIe 3.0 x16 slot and two free optical fiber ports for connecting with the new array. The cabinet is free such that anything under 6U should fit." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="e08e735e-9abe-4370-b36c-37f4cbf10795" CreationDate="2019-07-15T00:56:15.127" UserId="13016" Text="I am volunteerly building a Web Based application for a school. The application will consist of a Server, a Disaster Recovery Server and a Database Server. Outside each classroom, will be a display installed to show the ongoing activity of the classroom. I need advice on how and what to use for the displays. One way of connecting the displays to the main server is to have a display monitor plus computers outside each classroom. But that would cost the school a lot. Is there any cheap and easy solution to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Forgive my ignorance if this is too simple but I am nuts in hardware related stuff." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39947" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="e08e735e-9abe-4370-b36c-37f4cbf10795" CreationDate="2019-07-15T00:56:15.127" UserId="13016" Text="Display Systems outside each classroom in a school" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39948" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="e08e735e-9abe-4370-b36c-37f4cbf10795" CreationDate="2019-07-15T00:56:15.127" UserId="13016" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39949" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="d390abd0-4a74-498e-89d6-e90c9059aed0" CreationDate="2019-07-15T01:01:36.623" UserId="13016" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="I am volunteerly building a Web Based application for a school. The application will consist of a Server, a Disaster Recovery Server and a Database Server. Outside each classroom, will be a display installed to show the ongoing activity of the classroom (Like the display screens in airports etc.). I need advice on how and what to use for the displays. One way of connecting the displays to the main server is to have a display monitor plus computers outside each classroom. But that would cost the school a lot. Is there any cheap and easy solution to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Forgive my ignorance if this is too simple but I am nuts in hardware related stuff." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11598" RevisionGUID="1d8250fc-716b-497c-bd92-198740e4e2cc" CreationDate="2019-07-15T14:19:04.637" UserId="13022" Text="I want to be able to schedule a 2 hour slot each weekday where I can block my kids from gaming sites on the home wifi router.  As well as this I also want to block adult content all the time (which I'm currently able to do).  I can't seem to find any router that will do this.  Is it possible?  I know there are routers that can do it based on blocking domain names but I want to block all gaming sites ideally, so I was hoping to use a filtering category similar to what SafeDNS uses.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think using SafeDNS is the closest method I've found, but it doesn't sound very reliable in terms of the start and end times for the blocking as it depends on the device refreshing it's DNS cache." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11598" RevisionGUID="1d8250fc-716b-497c-bd92-198740e4e2cc" CreationDate="2019-07-15T14:19:04.637" UserId="13022" Text="Is there a home router to block gaming sites for 2 hours a day on weekdays only?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11598" RevisionGUID="1d8250fc-716b-497c-bd92-198740e4e2cc" CreationDate="2019-07-15T14:19:04.637" UserId="13022" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11599" RevisionGUID="76798326-0adf-4da2-bd8b-12b3c0498289" CreationDate="2019-07-15T15:29:26.037" UserId="13024" Text="I'm looking for recommendation on Bluetooth traffic sniffer instrument.&#xD;&#xA;I did my desk research to find-out the instruments available - I came across Nordic, Ubertooth etc..  but these are not meeting my requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have ready-to-use instrument for bluetooth without dependency of installing drivers or laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supporting Bluetooth BR, EDR, BLE protocols with internet connection facility to download the logs/reports/captures&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance&#xD;&#xA;Santhosh" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11599" RevisionGUID="76798326-0adf-4da2-bd8b-12b3c0498289" CreationDate="2019-07-15T15:29:26.037" UserId="13024" Text="Bluetooth Sniffer recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11599" RevisionGUID="76798326-0adf-4da2-bd8b-12b3c0498289" CreationDate="2019-07-15T15:29:26.037" UserId="13024" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39960" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11600" RevisionGUID="1cecfb90-0750-4fa9-a158-07c71ab3b29e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T17:22:35.247" UserId="13026" Text="Currently, I am using 3 monitors on my desktop PC as I run a software with many windows and I save and restore the layouts(work space) of these widows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am planning to move to the could and was wondering how this would work in the cloud world.  What I am not quite clear about &#xD;&#xA;1. Can I configure the cloud VM to have 3 monitors just like the way I have it&#xD;&#xA;2. Or am I thinking about this wrong, I just expand the RDP window across my monitors and then just work with it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please provide any insights as to how is it generally done in a multiple monitor setup. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39961" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11600" RevisionGUID="1cecfb90-0750-4fa9-a158-07c71ab3b29e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T17:22:35.247" UserId="13026" Text="Multiple Monitors Remote Desktop VM in Cloud" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39962" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11600" RevisionGUID="1cecfb90-0750-4fa9-a158-07c71ab3b29e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T17:22:35.247" UserId="13026" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39966" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11602" RevisionGUID="1097d85b-c4cd-4847-ad5d-02e833277f24" CreationDate="2019-07-15T17:45:22.073" UserId="13027" Text="RDP support multiple monitors, you can check that option in the client settings.&#xA;&#xA;The number of monitors depend on the client, not the server. &#xA;&#xA;If the remote OS support it, it will work. &#xA;&#xA;Make sure your apps working well on remote session by connect to your current pc from a different one.&#xA;&#xA;See Server OS restrictions here: https://support.steadfast.net/Knowledgebase/Article/View/107/0/using-multiple-monitors-with-windows-remote-desktop&#xA;&#xA;&gt; When connecting to Windows 7 computers, only computers that are running Windows 7 Enterprise or Ultimate can be connected to in multi-monitor mode. When connecting to Windows 8.1, only computers that are running Windows 8.1 Professional or Enterprise can be connected to in multi-monitor mode." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39967" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11588" RevisionGUID="49157e2c-2fd7-4176-bf50-849fa737e32a" CreationDate="2019-07-15T18:53:45.930" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="39971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="e92725cc-b7f8-401a-8e5f-e91a6197fe9e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T19:57:06.570" UserId="13028" Text="I’m looking to purchase a decently powerful laptop to use for autoCAD. There are a few specs that I require. These are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2.5gHz quad core CPU&#xD;&#xA;- 8GB ram&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Good battery and Good design (preferably on the thinner side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13, 15 inch. Definitely not 17. Preferably under $1.5k. I’ve been looking at the Huawei matebook 13, HP Spectre. Not sure which one to get. Oh also, the Dell XPS 13 looks really good spec wise but I’m not quite settled on the design and price. &#xD;&#xA;Please give me your suggestions and opinions " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="e92725cc-b7f8-401a-8e5f-e91a6197fe9e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T19:57:06.570" UserId="13028" Text="What are some good laptops that you can recommend for me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="e92725cc-b7f8-401a-8e5f-e91a6197fe9e" CreationDate="2019-07-15T19:57:06.570" UserId="13028" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11607" RevisionGUID="e7a6c5a5-7c89-4345-b959-2f9a998d3740" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:33:19.047" UserId="527" Text="Please recommend a USB 3.0 hub that can ***definitely*** power 2 external USB 3.0 bus-powered 4TB hard drives at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many USB 3.0 hubs claim to be able to do this, but each one I've tried  (and I've tried *many* of them) cause the first external bus-powered hard drive to either:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   1. Momentarily disconnect when the second external bus-powered hard drive is plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   2. Connect at USB 2.0 speeds when the second drive is plugged in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unlike a similar question I asked about a year ago, the hub does not need to have individual switches for each port (but it's fine if it does)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40008" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11607" RevisionGUID="e7a6c5a5-7c89-4345-b959-2f9a998d3740" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:33:19.047" UserId="527" Text="USB 3.0 hub that will allow connecting two 4TB bus-powered external hard drives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40009" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11607" RevisionGUID="e7a6c5a5-7c89-4345-b959-2f9a998d3740" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:33:19.047" UserId="527" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40021" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11611" RevisionGUID="48de11e4-76fb-49f0-b27e-5bcc8bf51f53" CreationDate="2019-07-16T13:58:39.227" UserId="10056" Text="As my needs honor play was the best in 250$ and satisfied most my needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40025" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="5b459134-0831-4baa-9a4d-9cca1813608f" CreationDate="2019-07-16T15:26:46.810" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling edits" Text="I am voluntarily building a web-based application for a school. The application will consist of a Server, a Disaster Recovery Server and a Database Server. Outside each classroom will be a display installed to show the ongoing activity of the classroom (Like the display screens in airports etc.). I need advice on how and what to use for the displays. One way of connecting the displays to the main server is to have a display monitor plus computers outside each classroom. But that would cost the school a lot. Is there any cheap and easy solution to this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Forgive my ignorance if this is too simple but I am nuts in hardware related stuff." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40026" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11597" RevisionGUID="5b459134-0831-4baa-9a4d-9cca1813608f" CreationDate="2019-07-16T15:26:46.810" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 13016 edit id of 909" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11614" RevisionGUID="2793569f-531c-4d4c-af20-789308654ed1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T17:49:03.527" UserId="10878" Text="My concern is, I am not sure if the boards i'm looking at is compatible with the Ryzen 5 2600.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am mainly using my computer for games and work so I think I do not need more than 2 ram slots and only plan to get 16gb of ram. Also definitely, needing a good M.2 NVME SSD slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Ryzen 5 2600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 pcs of. 8gb ddr4 2666 Kingston HyperX Fury Black (16gb)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Seasonic S12II (650w)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: Gigabyte RX 570 4gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD (MZ-V7E500BW)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40032" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11614" RevisionGUID="2793569f-531c-4d4c-af20-789308654ed1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T17:49:03.527" UserId="10878" Text="What is the best Micro Atx motherboard for my build with only 2 ram slots and an M.2 SSD slot?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40033" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11614" RevisionGUID="2793569f-531c-4d4c-af20-789308654ed1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T17:49:03.527" UserId="10878" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40035" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11600" RevisionGUID="d9227f99-8578-44e0-ae38-b5b5ad7f9090" CreationDate="2019-07-16T20:46:13.450" UserId="7556" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="40039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11615" RevisionGUID="0966959a-06b5-46de-8565-2ea89b0db61f" CreationDate="2019-07-16T21:43:59.097" UserId="10626" Text="A display and a PC is just a part—and not the most important nor expensive—of the whole setup. In order to minimize costs, you should consider the following aspects first:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - How should the devices—whatever they would be—would be powered? Since the setup is in a school, there are strict rules related to the **safety of electrical installations**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   There probably needs to be cables inside the walls going to where the monitors will be installed. How would monitors physically connect to those cables inside walls? Should there be a dedicated outlet near every monitor? What the laws say on the subject? How much would the school pay an electrician to do the job *for every classroom*?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Places with high presence of children are not the most friendly one for fragile hardware. You should essentially ensure *all* the hardware is protected against **vandalism**: this includes intentional vandalism by a child who wants to break things, as well as theft or accidents (for instance a children pushing another one against the monitor during a fight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   This should not only influence the choice of the hardware, but also the way you connect it. For instance, why asking parents to buy a Micro-USB cable when there are lots of them to *take* by unplugging a Raspberry Pi?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Infosec**. Children may not only be violent and malicious towards hardware, but some of them are quite skillful at breaking things at *software* level. This means that whatever your setup, it should be updated on regular basis and be protected against basic attacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Not a big deal? Wait until your dozens or hundreds of Raspberry Pis start a DDOS attack on school's LDAP server. What about explaining *that* to the headmaster?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Maintenance**. Installing the devices is one thing, but how much would it cost to maintain the system over the years? Some setups would have a high original cost, but would make maintenance as easy as possible. Other setups would be much cheaper originally, but incur high maintenance costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the first three factors, I would claim that Raspberry Pi coupled with an HDMI monitor is not a solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's difficult to make the electrical installation which would be compliant with all the safety rules (especially for a school). The fact that you need either a transformer or an USB charger is, alone, a big issue. Both transformers and chargers have a big issue: heat. This means you cannot put them *inside* the wall. You won't be able to put them outside either, because of...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Vandalism. How do you imagine protecting a Raspberry Pi against the attempts of stealing or disassembling it, or simply trying to destroy it? Even if you put it near the ceiling, children *will* find a solution to do nasty things to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Raspberry Pi devices are much, much better compared to IOT devices such as smart light bulbs which have practically no way of fighting against a determined hacker. Raspberry Pi has several great things: (1) it runs Linux, (2) it has enough power to do cryptography and (3) it supports 802.1x EAP if you use Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   If administered correctly (updated regularly, configured wisely and monitored by a system administrator), they are not that different from, say, servers: the only differences are that servers have two or four NIC which makes it possible to have a dedicated network for system administrators (important when you're being DDOS'ed), and that some servers are much more powerful, making *some* DOS/DDOS more difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   The problem is, Raspberry Pi devices are not usually considered as servers by system administrators, which means that they are not actively monitored, not configured by skillful personnel, and sometimes end up completely forgotten, with outdated kernel and software. Lots of such devices in hands of a hacker can do a lot of harm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your solutions are therefore those ones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Kiosk**. Essentially, electronics (monitor and PC) are embedded in an enclosure or are inside a wall, and the hardware is specifically designed to be this way (with fans where appropriate).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Benefits: (1) safety is not an issue, since all the wiring is inside the enclosure; (2) all kiosks are designed to be protected against different degrees of vandalism and many companies would advertise their products as safe against hackers (there is often a difference between what's advertised and the reality, however).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Drawbacks: (1) most hardware is quite expensive, and (2) most devices use touchscreens: it's expensive, and you probably don't need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   A variant of a kiosk is an enclosure with a tablet in it. Might be nice for a hotel lobby (although every time I've seen one, it was terribly done), but not for a school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **A monitor with an embedded PC in it**, mounted on a VESA near the ceiling. This is essentially what is used in public locations: supermarkets, airports, railway stations.¹ Those are not just monitors, but devices which look like monitors but which have a PC built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Those devices can potentially be vandalized (as would any ordinary PC monitor, for example) and the wiring is outside the device (just like in an ordinary PC monitor). The idea is that those devices are installed near the ceiling, in a location where there are lots of cameras, people and security officers, so a malicious person (a vandal who wants to break the device, or a hacker who wants to connect something to it) won't be able to pass unnoticed if he starts climbing to access the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Benefits: (1) much cheaper compared to kiosks, and those are never touchscreens. (2) Since those devices are expected to be found in public locations, companies that sell them will claim different degrees of protection against hackers. As in previous one, it happens that a seller would claim something which is not true.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Drawbacks: (1) check the local rules to be sure such installations are authorized in a school; (2) you *have* to install them near the ceiling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Custom-made everything**. Essentially, you pick your hardware and you design the enclosure (for instance by relying on a laser-cutting service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Benefit: you can pick inexpensive monitors such as [the ones produced by Waveshare][1], including their e-Paper modules (given the sort of information you want to display, e-Paper modules may be a much better option compared to an ordinary LCD screen, and they consume much less energy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Drawbacks: (1) you have to know how to do the stuff, and it takes a lot of time. (2) Check the local law in terms of what you can or can't do in a school. (3) Beware of maintenance complexity and cost. Replacing a custom-made metal laser-cut part is quite different from replacing a device that you can simply buy on Amazon and have to be delivered the next day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;¹ At least, one of the types of devices they use. What you find a lot at railway stations and airports is a different kind of device: special monitors which have special connectors (like the CCTV you can see in railway stations). Those devices are more common in locations where vandalism is relatively easy (for instance a suburb railway station where there are CCTV, but no security officers on premises). Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out if those devices are just monitors or hybrids (monitors with a PC inside). If I remember well, there are two heavy-duty connectors: 230V and something used for communication, but the communication one doesn't look at all like Ethernet or HDMI.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/Main_Page#OLEDs_.2F_LCDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40040" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11615" RevisionGUID="93265c80-08d5-499d-b415-6770835d229d" CreationDate="2019-07-16T21:56:50.000" UserId="10626" Comment="added 802 characters in body" Text="A display and a PC is just a part—and not the most important nor expensive—of the whole setup.¹ In order to minimize costs, you should consider the following aspects first:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - How should the devices—whatever they would be—would be powered? Since the setup is in a school, there are strict rules related to the **safety of electrical installations**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   There probably needs to be cables inside the walls going to where the monitors will be installed. How would monitors physically connect to those cables inside walls? Should there be a dedicated outlet near every monitor? What the laws say on the subject? How much would the school pay an electrician to do the job *for every classroom*?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Places with high presence of children are not the most friendly one for fragile hardware. You should essentially ensure *all* the hardware is protected against **vandalism**: this includes intentional vandalism by a child who wants to break things, as well as theft or accidents (for instance a children pushing another one against the monitor during a fight).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   This should not only influence the choice of the hardware, but also the way you connect it. For instance, why asking parents to buy a Micro-USB cable when there are lots of them to *take* by unplugging a Raspberry Pi?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Infosec**. Children may not only be violent and malicious towards hardware, but some of them are quite skillful at breaking things at *software* level. This means that whatever your setup, it should be updated on regular basis and be protected against basic attacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Not a big deal? Wait until your dozens or hundreds of Raspberry Pis start a DDOS attack on school's LDAP server. What about explaining *that* to the headmaster?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Maintenance**. Installing the devices is one thing, but how much would it cost to maintain the system over the years? Some setups would have a high original cost, but would make maintenance as easy as possible. Other setups would be much cheaper originally, but incur high maintenance costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on the first three factors, I would claim that Raspberry Pi coupled with an HDMI monitor is not a solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It's difficult to make the electrical installation which would be compliant with all the safety rules (especially for a school). The fact that you need either a transformer or an USB charger is, alone, a big issue. Both transformers and chargers have a big issue: heat. This means you cannot put them *inside* the wall. You won't be able to put them outside either, because of...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Vandalism. How do you imagine protecting a Raspberry Pi against the attempts of stealing or disassembling it, or simply trying to destroy it? Even if you put it near the ceiling, children *will* find a solution to do nasty things to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Raspberry Pi devices are much, much better compared to IOT devices such as smart light bulbs which have practically no way of fighting against a determined hacker. Raspberry Pi has several great things: (1) it runs Linux, (2) it has enough power to do cryptography and (3) it supports 802.1x EAP if you use Wi-Fi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   If administered correctly (updated regularly, configured wisely and monitored by a system administrator), they are not that different from, say, servers: the only differences are that servers have two or four NIC which makes it possible to have a dedicated network for system administrators (important when you're being DDOS'ed), and that some servers are much more powerful, making *some* DOS/DDOS more difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   The problem is, Raspberry Pi devices are not usually considered as servers by system administrators, which means that they are not actively monitored, not configured by skillful personnel, and sometimes end up completely forgotten, with outdated kernel and software. Lots of such devices in hands of a hacker can do a lot of harm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your solutions are therefore those ones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Kiosk**. Essentially, electronics (monitor and PC) are embedded in an enclosure or are inside a wall, and the hardware is specifically designed to be this way (with fans where appropriate).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Benefits: (1) safety is not an issue, since all the wiring is inside the enclosure; (2) all kiosks are designed to be protected against different degrees of vandalism and many companies would advertise their products as safe against hackers (there is often a difference between what's advertised and the reality, however).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Drawbacks: (1) most hardware is quite expensive, and (2) most devices use touchscreens: it's expensive, and you probably don't need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   A variant of a kiosk is an enclosure with a tablet in it. Might be nice for a hotel lobby (although every time I've seen one, it was terribly done), but not for a school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **A monitor with an embedded PC in it**, mounted on a VESA near the ceiling. This is essentially what is used in public locations: supermarkets, airports, railway stations.² Those are not just monitors, but devices which look like monitors but which have a PC built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Those devices can potentially be vandalized (as would any ordinary PC monitor, for example) and the wiring is outside the device (just like in an ordinary PC monitor). The idea is that those devices are installed near the ceiling, in a location where there are lots of cameras, people and security officers, so a malicious person (a vandal who wants to break the device, or a hacker who wants to connect something to it) won't be able to pass unnoticed if he starts climbing to access the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Benefits: (1) much cheaper compared to kiosks, and those are never touchscreens. (2) Since those devices are expected to be found in public locations, companies that sell them will claim different degrees of protection against hackers. As in previous one, it happens that a seller would claim something which is not true.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Drawbacks: (1) check the local rules to be sure such installations are authorized in a school; (2) you *have* to install them near the ceiling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Custom-made everything**. Essentially, you pick your hardware and you design the enclosure (for instance by relying on a laser-cutting service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Benefit: you can pick inexpensive monitors such as [the ones produced by Waveshare][1], including their e-Paper modules (given the sort of information you want to display, e-Paper modules may be a much better option compared to an ordinary LCD screen, and they consume much less energy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   Drawbacks: (1) you have to know how to do the stuff, and it takes a lot of time. (2) Check the local law in terms of what you can or can't do in a school. (3) Beware of maintenance complexity and cost. Replacing a custom-made metal laser-cut part is quite different from replacing a device that you can simply buy on Amazon and have to be delivered the next day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;¹ I had a similar experience recently. My goal is to have a touchscreen near the door in my flat, in order to deactivate a custom-made alarm system which triggers when someone opens the door. So much simpler than your project, since I'm doing it at home, and not for a hostile environment. Buying a screen module and a Raspberry Pi was easy. The difficult part was all the wiring, as well as the task of putting the transformer in a way it won't heat and the ability to do maintenance easily (including cleaning dust). In addition to that, I had to make custom enclosures, which costed me a few hundreds of dollars (in part because of the mistakes I did), and I wasted about a week designing them. And the next difficulty would be to develop the software and ensure the operations part.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;² At least, one of the types of devices they use. What you find a lot at railway stations and airports is a different kind of device: special monitors which have special connectors (like the CCTV you can see in railway stations). Those devices are more common in locations where vandalism is relatively easy (for instance a suburb railway station where there are CCTV, but no security officers on premises). Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out if those devices are just monitors or hybrids (monitors with a PC inside). If I remember well, there are two heavy-duty connectors: 230V and something used for communication, but the communication one doesn't look at all like Ethernet or HDMI.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/Main_Page#OLEDs_.2F_LCDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11617" RevisionGUID="6f0d66cf-ef18-4cd7-bf1d-f378aad5b5d2" CreationDate="2019-07-17T12:27:00.783" UserId="13042" Text="Okay, so a little background here: I am a software engineering student who spends much of his time developing mobile apps with Flutter. As of right now, my main machine is a Surface Pro 4 with a dual-core Core i5 and 8GB of RAM, and I have a few gripes that probably aren't surprising: The screen size is a little restrictive, running Android Studio pretty much consumes every resource the PC has to offer, compilation times are pretty slow, and of course, I am unable to build/test for iOS due to platform restrictions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In light of this, I am in the market for a MacBook Pro (I'm a student, so I need the portability), but as I was doing my research, I have struggled to find any general guidelines for what truly impacts things like compilation time. I guess the real question here is, will having the 2 cores (or 4 if you consider hyper-threading) really have a impact on compilation time (i.e., is compilation a single-threaded or multi-threaded workload)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to the need for a Mac for my purposes, I am going to buy one regardless, but I would like to know if it's worth it to throw my money at more cores or not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unsurprisingly, the single-core GeekBench scores for my current PC and the new 2019 MBP base model are almost identical (ballpark 4000), while the multi-core score for the MBP beats my PC by about 9000 points. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's what I have found out already from my research:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - SSD R/W speeds are very important for compilation speed, but Macs have had a good track record with this&#xD;&#xA; - RAM is also a big factor, so I am going with 16GB as a minimum&#xD;&#xA; - Different compilers can have different workloads&#xD;&#xA; - Project size is closely related to build times &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11617" RevisionGUID="6f0d66cf-ef18-4cd7-bf1d-f378aad5b5d2" CreationDate="2019-07-17T12:27:00.783" UserId="13042" Text="What matters most in a development machine?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11617" RevisionGUID="6f0d66cf-ef18-4cd7-bf1d-f378aad5b5d2" CreationDate="2019-07-17T12:27:00.783" UserId="13042" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="205ff796-40d2-404a-af24-27da01eef0ed" CreationDate="2019-07-17T13:29:46.293" UserId="13043" Text="I've searched far &amp; wide and I can only assume there is nothing or it's impossible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such thing as a USB-C splitter that two USB-C earphones/headphones can connect to, that then connects to a computer via USB-A? so two people can listen to the same audio?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="205ff796-40d2-404a-af24-27da01eef0ed" CreationDate="2019-07-17T13:29:46.293" UserId="13043" Text="USB-C Splitter for Audio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="205ff796-40d2-404a-af24-27da01eef0ed" CreationDate="2019-07-17T13:29:46.293" UserId="13043" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40067" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11622" RevisionGUID="e16b70db-7002-4981-9374-b3afa28d4014" CreationDate="2019-07-18T03:51:56.290" UserId="13047" Text="Soon I will upgrade from a Mac-based system to a custom built PC for video post-production (I haven't yet decided on the components which is why I'm asking about this). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One issue is that I currently use a 24TB G-Speed Thunderbolt 2 Raid with my Mac. If possible I would like to continue to use it on the PC that I build. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the best way I can think of is to install a Thunderbolt 3 PCIe card in the new PC and then use the Apple Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 adapter dongle to connect the Raid to the PC. Anybody got any better solution? Or reasons why my idea won't work?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40068" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11622" RevisionGUID="e16b70db-7002-4981-9374-b3afa28d4014" CreationDate="2019-07-18T03:51:56.290" UserId="13047" Text="Best method to connect Thunderbolt 2 external RAID drive to a new custom built PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40069" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11622" RevisionGUID="e16b70db-7002-4981-9374-b3afa28d4014" CreationDate="2019-07-18T03:51:56.290" UserId="13047" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40070" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11623" RevisionGUID="b2b8ce7a-74f1-4c58-94ee-7c1ea49ecdc3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T06:46:06.377" UserId="13048" Text="I wanted to run Image Processing and 4-5 different sensors on a single Rasberry Pie Board. So what board should be sufficient for the work ? I couldn't choose as I am new to IOT and have very little knowledge Rasberry pie" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40071" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11623" RevisionGUID="b2b8ce7a-74f1-4c58-94ee-7c1ea49ecdc3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T06:46:06.377" UserId="13048" Text="Help me Choose a Rasberry Pi board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40072" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11623" RevisionGUID="b2b8ce7a-74f1-4c58-94ee-7c1ea49ecdc3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T06:46:06.377" UserId="13048" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11625" RevisionGUID="c1720fd0-6fcf-4555-9580-4d267bb21b37" CreationDate="2019-07-18T11:23:29.073" UserId="13053" Text="Which Graphics card will be the best value for money for this configuration? Suggestion will be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Processor: `Core i5 9600k`&#xD;&#xA; 2. Motherboard: `Gigabyte Z390UD`&#xD;&#xA; 3. Ram: `Corsair Vengeance LPX 1x16GB 3200MHz`&#xD;&#xA; 4. Storage: `SSD 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 250GB`&#xD;&#xA; 5. Power Supply: `Antec 550Watt`&#xD;&#xA; 6. CPU Cooler: `Cryorig H7`" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40077" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11625" RevisionGUID="c1720fd0-6fcf-4555-9580-4d267bb21b37" CreationDate="2019-07-18T11:23:29.073" UserId="13053" Text="Best money for value GPU for Core i5 9600k processor and 16GB Ram" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40078" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11625" RevisionGUID="c1720fd0-6fcf-4555-9580-4d267bb21b37" CreationDate="2019-07-18T11:23:29.073" UserId="13053" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11627" RevisionGUID="4fe2d9e7-ad99-4290-9a64-90b06a783081" CreationDate="2019-07-18T17:26:40.483" UserId="13011" Text="You can try it out by buying a Pi Zero W to test the requirements you need since they are very cheap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then after you ascertained your requirements go for what you need. Stick with the Zero or get a more powerful one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the Raspberry Pi 3 should be able to do what you want but I would recommend that you get a Raspberry Pi 4 with 2GB at least. That way you have both the processing power and the memory to run almost anything you throw at it&#xD;&#xA;Besides, if you then decide to re-use the Pi on another project, you know you have the power for it. &#xD;&#xA;The only drawback is the Pi 4 huge power demand of a 3A PSU while the 3 needs 2.5A and the Zero W needs 0.3A (this is just the boards without any sensors) " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11629" RevisionGUID="26cea39c-8b62-4c6c-8bd7-e80bb868ba69" CreationDate="2019-07-18T20:11:04.300" UserId="10648" Text="I don't believe the type of splitter you are asking for exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C Headphones contain an integrated DAC, which means the audio is sent to the headphones from your computer/phone over the USB protocol. You may already know that USB cannot be &quot;split&quot; like a headphone jack can, but you can use a USB hub to allow more than one USB device to be plugged into a single USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be able to get both headphones to appear as separate sound devices on your computer if they are both plugged into a hub or separate USB ports. From there it will take some [additional software][1] to play audio to both devices at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://vac.muzychenko.net/en/index.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40087" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11629" RevisionGUID="a759f857-e51e-43b2-bd5e-513541f8eae8" CreationDate="2019-07-18T20:18:43.617" UserId="10648" Comment="added 161 characters in body" Text="I don't believe the type of splitter you are asking for exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C Headphones contain an integrated DAC, which means the audio is sent to the headphones from your computer/phone over the USB protocol. You may already know that USB cannot be &quot;split&quot; like a headphone jack can, but you can use a USB hub to allow more than one USB device to be plugged into a single USB port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be able to get both headphones to appear as separate sound devices on your computer if they are both plugged into a hub or separate USB ports. From there it will take some [additional software][1] to play audio to both devices at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One more caveat is that your computer is going to need a USB-C port or a very particular USB-A (3.1) port in order to support hubs with USB-C ports themselves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://vac.muzychenko.net/en/index.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="e0bdee5a-515c-4012-add0-f414a92c57aa" CreationDate="2019-07-18T21:53:27.797" UserId="1808" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="The task sounds simple the aim is to send an ʜᴅᴍɪ signal from computer to large ᴛᴠ where the 2 can’t fit in the same room at the same time…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There’s 7 meters air gap between the 2 devices… and a concrete floor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#What I searched&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard a 60Ghz radio solution can’t be used in this situation because it can be almost stopped by a paper sheet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard that the bandwidth of 5Ghz device would allow transmitting the signal so I bought an ʜᴘ Wireless ʜᴅᴍɪ transmitter operating on that band : and the compression is so high that the quality is definitely better on 640×480×16 ᴄʀᴛ.  &#xD;&#xA;**Maybe a 5Ghz transmitter on that band would be able to transmit the video in a way which can be considered lossless and that I just didn’t found the right device.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then one would argue to just use a wired solution. However with the distance to reach the stair and hallway what is 7 meter radio gap becomes a 35 meters wire. Of course, with such a long wire the quality is just as bad as with wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How to solve this ? As the ᴛᴠ runs on Webos and supports 802.11 Wi‑Fi with 270Mb/s real speed (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be OK.  &#xD;&#xA;There’s definitely must be a way : with ᴅᴠʙ‑ᴛ I can record 14 channels all at 1080p30Hz at the same time (with a single Tuner) with almost no compression and a frequency well below 1Gz." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11630" RevisionGUID="00974a3f-acdd-4cf1-99e3-fbff323d2fd3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T22:03:58.850" UserId="13073" Text="I am in embedded development and so the question isn't regarding connectors, as we do not use RJ45s, but rather we use custom connectors of aerospace-grade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible, and is it typically supported, to take a 1000BASE-T output (non-host interface) and split this to two different 100BASE-T outputs to two different network devices (e.g., so one ethernet interface becomes two from the kernel perspective in Linux).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this something conventionally supported by the 802.3 standard?  Note these would be two entirely different network devices it would be connected to.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, in some cases based on the wiring configuration instead of two different 100BASE-T, it might just be a single 1000BASE-T to a single network device where high-speed is desired at the loss of an Ethernet interface." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11630" RevisionGUID="00974a3f-acdd-4cf1-99e3-fbff323d2fd3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T22:03:58.850" UserId="13073" Text="Is it supported by the 802.3 Standard to be able to use (1) 1000BASE-T to (2) 100BASE-T and vice versa with a single MAC/PHY?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11630" RevisionGUID="00974a3f-acdd-4cf1-99e3-fbff323d2fd3" CreationDate="2019-07-18T22:03:58.850" UserId="13073" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40095" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11632" RevisionGUID="1ee8e3f3-dfef-4829-a610-c622fb8b62c5" CreationDate="2019-07-19T14:32:28.473" UserId="12976" Text="I have a PC that currently has an old Asus 6600 GT graphics card in it, but there doesn't appear to be any Windows 10 drivers available for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a GPU that will run on a 250W power supply and provide dual monitor support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40096" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11632" RevisionGUID="1ee8e3f3-dfef-4829-a610-c622fb8b62c5" CreationDate="2019-07-19T14:32:28.473" UserId="12976" Text="Recommended GPU for dual monitors on a 250w PSU? (Windows 10)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40097" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11632" RevisionGUID="1ee8e3f3-dfef-4829-a610-c622fb8b62c5" CreationDate="2019-07-19T14:32:28.473" UserId="12976" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40101" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11634" RevisionGUID="f90a1194-bc1f-426a-bdf8-638f941df331" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:44:34.857" UserId="7006" Text="This is a common satellite TV dish for home use.  [![directv dish][1]][1]&lt;br/&gt;*image (CC BY-SA 2.0)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a device designed to be mounted on used satellite dishes such as this one.&lt;br/&gt;[MikroTik LDF 5 ac (product page)][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the idea is that you get two such satellite dishes, one of these devices to each one, and point the dishes straight at one another, thus establishing a long distance wifi link, recycling/reusing old equipment, and saving money all at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm totally for it!  I want to buy two of these. The price sounds reasonable to me, and I already have two old satellite dishes.  However...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The company has been accused of violating the software license (GPL) that governs the software inside their devices (it's called RouterOS and it's a custom Linux distribution).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would rather give my business to a company that appreciates that their own business operation was made possible by the work of thousands of volunteers over many years.  If no such hardware company is available, then I'll want to do some price and feature comparison shopping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what similar products exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE3AV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://mikrotik.com/product/ldf_5_ac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40102" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11634" RevisionGUID="f90a1194-bc1f-426a-bdf8-638f941df331" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:44:34.857" UserId="7006" Text="Device to mount on used satellite TV dish to establish long distance wireless connection?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40103" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11634" RevisionGUID="f90a1194-bc1f-426a-bdf8-638f941df331" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:44:34.857" UserId="7006" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40104" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11635" RevisionGUID="244f2f6f-4ef1-4381-be3a-10bd4ede12f7" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:48:24.870" UserId="13077" Text="I have been tasked with implementing a project using Drones. The project tries to analyze the distribution of Cocoa trees in the landscape in respect to other tress. One of the main challenges is the identification of Cocoa trees for drone sensing images but also how to determine Cocoa under the canopy of other trees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no drone or sensor experience to determine the technical feasibility of the project (if its possible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know it is possible and what drone + sensor/s would be most suitable for the task?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40105" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11635" RevisionGUID="244f2f6f-4ef1-4381-be3a-10bd4ede12f7" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:48:24.870" UserId="13077" Text="Drone and sensor recommendations for analyzing tree coverage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40106" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11635" RevisionGUID="244f2f6f-4ef1-4381-be3a-10bd4ede12f7" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:48:24.870" UserId="13077" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11636" RevisionGUID="93e1e2f9-e448-48c6-8a1e-3807f2e65394" CreationDate="2019-07-19T18:54:50.327" UserId="10648" Text="Streaming the HDMI signal itself is a very tricky thing to achieve since 1080p HDMI signals are uncompressed and 1080p60hz requires about 3 Gbit/s. That is a very high bandwidth to achieve wirelessly and I'm not surprised that the wireless HDMI kit you purchased was very poor quality. Even a 5Ghz Wireless AC router needs *4 antennas* with a MIMO system to reach that kind of bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ... (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You have the right idea using a remote desktop solution.&#xD;&#xA;In fact, there are a few solutions that exist specifically for streaming games:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Steam Remote Play][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [Nvidia GameStream][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some decent remote desktop apps that can also grab full-screen content, such as NoMachine or Splashtop but they are less ideal compared to the gaming-first techs above. Windows' own RDP will work with windowed mode DirectX games too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Out of all of those choices, I would try Steam Remote Play first. It uses the GPU's built in video encoding capabilities if supported, and falls back to the various graphics APIs available for copying the frame buffer and encoding on the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I asked if you would consider an Android HTPC in the comments above because they are cheap HDMI computers that support the client for Steam Remote Play. With a good GPU in the desktop the encoding/compression would be significantly higher quality than what you would get from a wireless HDMI adapter and the solution is still wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.steampowered.com/streaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://support-shield.nvidia.com/gamestream-user-guide/#t=NVIDIA_GameStream.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40120" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11639" RevisionGUID="a9b36ca7-5b01-445d-a713-0ae12b684cf3" CreationDate="2019-07-20T04:36:44.417" UserId="13080" Text="I'm looking for a webcam which is able to upload directly to a user-specified remote server - or which can be directly accessed remotely - without involving any kind of third party server or service such as a cloud hosting provider or a PC/Raspberry Pi/etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the webcam would run (open source) software which lets you specify a remote server (e.g. SFTP) to periodically upload images to, and would upload them directly from the camera itself straight to the server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively the camera itself would run a small web server and accept incoming network requests (with strong authentication) from clients wishing to stream footage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera should be wireless (e.g. at least WiFi but ideally 3G/4G cellular connection as a fallback) but a power cable is acceptable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other piece of hardware involved should be a router to provide a WiFi signal (unless the camera also supports cellular connections).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera should not make any connections to any other servers except the user-specified one(s)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40121" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11639" RevisionGUID="a9b36ca7-5b01-445d-a713-0ae12b684cf3" CreationDate="2019-07-20T04:36:44.417" UserId="13080" Text="Webcam which can upload to (or be accessed from) a private remote server without involving any proprietary cloud servers or a computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40122" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11639" RevisionGUID="a9b36ca7-5b01-445d-a713-0ae12b684cf3" CreationDate="2019-07-20T04:36:44.417" UserId="13080" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40126" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11641" RevisionGUID="a099d0ad-1a46-4d52-91a8-a9fc31ca9a00" CreationDate="2019-07-20T10:56:11.280" UserId="13083" Text="I bought my pc six years ago and now want to replace my graphcis card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to play the upcoming games like Starfield and maybe The Elders Scrolls 6 with this new card. I'm looking for a product that costs around 300 euros and is compatible with the other pieces of my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my computer spec: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics card :** AMD Radeon 7850 HD 2 Go&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Screen resolution:** 1920 x 1080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard :** ASUS H97M-E&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power supply:** Antec Basiq 500 Watts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor:** Intel i5 4690 3.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM :** 2 x 4 Go DDR3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating system :** Windows 10 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40127" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11641" RevisionGUID="a099d0ad-1a46-4d52-91a8-a9fc31ca9a00" CreationDate="2019-07-20T10:56:11.280" UserId="13083" Text="Graphics card replacement for a 6 year old pc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40128" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11641" RevisionGUID="a099d0ad-1a46-4d52-91a8-a9fc31ca9a00" CreationDate="2019-07-20T10:56:11.280" UserId="13083" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40129" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11642" RevisionGUID="82d5e417-627c-421c-800b-7b20d9f323dd" CreationDate="2019-07-20T11:24:26.413" UserDisplayName="user13084" Text="You should take a look at the following graphics cards and decide which one is the best suited for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 (6G)&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or if you are an AMD kinda' person:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Radeon RX 570&#xD;&#xA; - AMD Radeon RX 580&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are what I would recommend. Considering your i5 has only 4 cores and 4 threads, you won't get a lot of performance, there might even be a slight bottleneck if you opt for a higher end card from the list. I would however do just that, as if you later decide to upgrade the CPU &amp; other parts when needed, you won't have to buy a new GPU again, these will be &quot;decent&quot; for 3-5 years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40137" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11646" RevisionGUID="b6d844be-8780-4475-bb8d-db597c1d52e2" CreationDate="2019-07-20T17:07:46.253" UserId="10626" Text="A webcam is not what you should look for. Webcams are simple devices, with a digital camera sensor and basic electronics for USB interface. They don't *push* anything anywhere. Instead, they allow a PC to access images or video stream from them. In other words, they are *passive*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, you want an active device, a device which would:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Know how to connect to the Internet, which means that it should have all the TCP/IP logic, be able to connect to the local network (determine the gateway IP, get the IP address, etc.), resolve DNS and handle HTTPS, which involves having a collection of root certificates, which have to be regularly updated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Be able to be configured in order to know what to push, when and where. Such configuration requires support for SSH or Telnet, and possibly an additional HTTPS server to host the configuration panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both elements require hardware very similar to an ordinary PC, in a very small form factor (and very inexpensive). Instead of an USB device with basic electronics, you'll have a device which acts like a PC and connects to Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you're looking for, therefore, is not a webcam, but a security camera. I won't recommend any security camera in particular, since I'm familiar with only one model, Vivotek IP8335H. The manual for this camera ([PDF, 16 MB](http://download.vivotek.com/downloadfile/downloads/usersmanuals/ip8335hmanual_en.pdf)) explains how to configure the device to send images or video to either an FTP server (page 96) or an HTTP server (page 97). Nothing proprietary here; even the format of images and video is standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most security cameras would have those options. Chose the one which matches your expectations in terms of price and features (such as infrared LEDs to be able to “see” at night) and check the manual to see what upload options are possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Important note: independently of what model you choose, make sure you know what you're doing in terms of security and privacy; lots of cameras end up publicly accessible to anyone willing to find them, which is a bit unfortunate.*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40155" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11332" RevisionGUID="31c8eefc-fd24-4de5-8b2d-fbd24739f7f6" CreationDate="2019-07-22T03:03:35.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11622" RevisionGUID="b9a8f0e2-5b18-444b-9a23-2145c5ab233b" CreationDate="2019-07-22T15:27:36.130" UserId="13047" Comment="added 241 characters in body" Text="Soon I will upgrade from a Mac-based system to a custom built PC for video post-production (I haven't yet decided on the components which is why I'm asking about this). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One issue is that I currently use a 24TB G-Speed Thunderbolt 2 Raid with my Mac. If possible I would like to continue to use it on the PC that I build. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the best way I can think of is to install a Thunderbolt 3 PCIe card in the new PC and then use the Apple Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 adapter dongle to connect the Raid to the PC. Anybody got any better solution? Or reasons why my idea won't work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT 7/22/19: Now I see that there are motherboards that have Thunderbolt 3 built straight into the board such as the Z390 DESIGNARE and the yet-to-be-released ASRock X570 Creator. This may be a better route for me than a PCIe adapter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40172" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1141" RevisionGUID="5e5e7b01-919d-4446-9aa7-1e46b8fa1800" CreationDate="2019-07-22T19:58:52.943" UserId="4495" Comment="broken image fixed (click 'rendered output' or 'side-by-side' to see the difference; image retrieved via Wayback Machine); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="[Origin EON-15X][2] (Customizable)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: 81.8% (B-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $1965 **(-)**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 16GB RAM (2133MHz) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 1080p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte) **+**&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 965M **+**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac WiFi **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Score&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: 91.6% (A-)&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $2435 **(--)**&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (2133Mhz) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - i7 6700k (Desktop level processor @ 4Ghz (4.4Ghz turbo) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - GTX 970M 6GB **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 4K 2160p 15.6&quot; Screen (Matte) **++**&#xD;&#xA; - No HDD/SSD **+**&#xD;&#xA; - 802.11ac **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Chassis&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - 1.4&quot; thick&#xD;&#xA; - a bit on the heavy side, 3.4kg **-**&#xD;&#xA; - Two M.2 Drives, two 2.5&quot; drives **+**&#xD;&#xA; - Full size keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - According to Origin, 130 minutes, or 2h10m. **?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Score is calculated based on (number of pluses ÷ number of pluses &amp; minuses combined)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfN0U.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.originpc.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40173" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1141" RevisionGUID="5e5e7b01-919d-4446-9aa7-1e46b8fa1800" CreationDate="2019-07-22T19:58:52.943" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 7556, 60 edit id of 908" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40182" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11623" RevisionGUID="73870f24-5011-46ab-b7ad-c6daf7cee037" CreationDate="2019-07-23T04:45:02.080" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="40187" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11630" RevisionGUID="db4ec60c-1e8b-4144-a05f-38dec8e062d0" CreationDate="2019-07-23T05:04:56.987" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="40190" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11656" RevisionGUID="f7ad724d-2547-45e2-b259-1a28d72069dc" CreationDate="2019-07-23T08:05:27.820" UserId="13109" Text="I've just started a Diploma of Software Development (Australia), and I'm wondering what specs I should look at in a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at putting an i9 in my desktop soon for video editing, and so I'm wondering if I will be able to get by with a Surface Laptop 2 with an i5 and 8GB RAM. I'd prefer not to spend $2k on a laptop so I can spend more on the PC, but I'm completely inexperienced with creating Windows Programs. We're coding mainly in C# and so it'd be nice to be able to test programs during my 2 hours of train riding each day." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40191" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11656" RevisionGUID="f7ad724d-2547-45e2-b259-1a28d72069dc" CreationDate="2019-07-23T08:05:27.820" UserId="13109" Text="Which Laptop for Software Development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40192" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11656" RevisionGUID="f7ad724d-2547-45e2-b259-1a28d72069dc" CreationDate="2019-07-23T08:05:27.820" UserId="13109" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40202" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="42df5892-fef0-4f4e-b1f1-2398cfcf4dad" CreationDate="2019-07-23T16:29:49.673" UserId="13113" Text="We are looking for a 3-D scanner for a project which is mounted at a distribution center where trucks are monitored. The trucks are viewed from the top and the goal is to estimate the 3-D pose of the truck. &#xD;&#xA;We tried with the ZED stereo camera first, but they are terrible in long range accuracy. I'm looking now for suggestions for stereo cameras that can perform well at a longer range, around 15 meters at an accuracy of +/- 5 cm in the pose. &#xD;&#xA;Other options include lidars, but it would be great if the community can help us choose the model that can fit this requirement.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40203" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="42df5892-fef0-4f4e-b1f1-2398cfcf4dad" CreationDate="2019-07-23T16:29:49.673" UserId="13113" Text="High accuracy 3-D scanners for outdoor scene reconstruction at long-ranges" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40204" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="42df5892-fef0-4f4e-b1f1-2398cfcf4dad" CreationDate="2019-07-23T16:29:49.673" UserId="13113" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;3d-scanner&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11660" RevisionGUID="8a338f86-49a3-4466-986d-b4f3325d1496" CreationDate="2019-07-23T20:00:44.933" UserId="10626" Text="Stereo cameras perform well at short distances, indeed: when using binocular vision, it is much harder to determine whether the object is, say, 50 meters away or 50.1 meters away, than to know whether it's 1 meter away or 1.1 meter away, despite the difference of 10 cm. in both cases. Here's a diagram which may help; the bigger the difference between *α*&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; and  *α*&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, the easier it is to determine the distance Δ&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In order to make it easier, you should increase the distance between the “eyes.”&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, instead of using a stereo camera, where the distance between the sensors is usually just a few centimeters, you can use *two ordinary cameras* put at a distance of a few meters from each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, you can use, for instance, OpenCV in order to create a 3D scene. The terms you may look at are *disparity map* and [*3D reconstruction*](https://docs.opencv.org/2.4/modules/calib3d/doc/camera_calibration_and_3d_reconstruction.html[1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VxAJ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJGoA.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40214" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11662" RevisionGUID="694282fd-324f-4c54-9d4c-3625273f3f87" CreationDate="2019-07-23T22:30:36.853" UserId="476" Text="Going by https://gpu.userbenchmark.com, calculating &quot;value&quot; with the following equation:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`(&quot;Effective 3D Speed&quot; / Price in Dollars)` and assuming your price bracket is at most $500, which seems to be about 2/3 of the cost of your computer, and assuming that ray tracing hardware is unimportant, the **AMD RX 5700 XT** appears to be your best &quot;value&quot; options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Compare the &quot;value&quot; of the **RX 5700 XT** to other popular graphics cards:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RX 580 - **0.39**&#xD;&#xA;- RX 5700 XT - **0.36**&#xD;&#xA;- RX 5700 - **0.36**&#xD;&#xA;- GTX 1660 Ti - **0.34**&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2060 SUPER - **0.29**&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2070 SUPER - **0.28**&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2080 SUPER - **0.23**&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2080 Ti - **0.19**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11663" RevisionGUID="7f4b251b-1b7f-4168-9fa9-ac60355c7110" CreationDate="2019-07-23T22:48:42.937" UserId="476" Text="# [HP Spectre X360][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Configuration: $1199.99**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Size**: 13.3 inch screen, 0.57 inches thick&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU**: i7-8565U. 4 cores, 8 threads. 1.8 - 4Ghz clock speed.&#xD;&#xA;- **Memory**: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;- **SSD**: 256GB NVMe&#xD;&#xA;- **Battery life**: [12 hours, 7 minutes][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=10151&amp;urlLangId=&amp;catEntryId=3074457345619013336&amp;quantity=1&amp;color=dark%20ash%20silver&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/hp-spectre-x360-13-inch-2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40218" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11665" RevisionGUID="ff347db3-1dae-49d6-add5-af1b2b1ad2a6" CreationDate="2019-07-23T23:53:36.223" UserId="5472" Text="It is perfectly possible to do development on a laptop with 8 GiB of RAM - I've done that for years on end now. However, you must assume that you will be working within an IDE such as Visual Studio. These kind of applications thrive on screen space. A laptop often has too little of that, so it is much better to work on a larger, secondary screen. Probably best is to have a laptop with a good (USB-3) docking station, preferably with dual display port output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The laptop you're pointing out has a glossy screen, which could tire you out (although having young eyes does help I suppose). The resolution is high, but beware that there are a surprising number of development related applications that are not build for high resolution screens out there. You'll have to stare at the screen quite a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Quite often you won't be programming huge applications. I did once buy a desktop with a lot of memory simply to be able to compile the OpenJDK after making some changes to it, so there are exceptions if you plan to change existing products. More often though, memory is required for the tooling itself. For instance, if you have a GUI toolbox then that may take quite a bit of memory and CPU power. This laptop does seem to have a spare slot for more memory though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;128 GiB of SSD - which seems to be the default for the Surface Laptop 2 - is absolutely tiny. If you're planning to develop using multiple languages then you must install multiple runtimes and IDE's. That will mean you'll quickly run out of space. I've just bought a 1 TB drive because I'm continuously out of space on my 256 GiB SSD. Of course you want an SSD rather than spinning rust for development. Compiling consists of handling hundreds / thousands of tiny files, something that SSDs excel in (and external drives and hard disks absolutely suck at).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are planning on using virtualization then this kind of memory / laptop is definitely not right for the purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, I'd skip the stylish Surface laptop and go for a cheaper workhorse ThinkPad or Dell laptop instead. I'd recommend trying to get 512 GB of SSD and 16 GB of memory. A quad core CPU should be fine though. For programming a touch screen is next to useless (unless you develop applications that require one of course), so get a good touch pad for on the go and a mouse and external key board for your home setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can share the screens with the PC (generally they have multiple inputs) but you'll probably swear quite a few times when you use the wrong keyboard and / or mouse if you do. Having dual screens is really helpful, but you can of course do without. You should prefer matte-screens for development, but I'm not sure if that mixes well with your video editing as matte screens do take some color / brightness away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11668" RevisionGUID="33a79fc2-8b16-4e38-aae1-1cb013e679a7" CreationDate="2019-07-24T08:42:26.690" UserId="13053" Text="Try to buy a laptop with at least below configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel core i5 (8th gen or Above)&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8Gb DDR4&#xD;&#xA;Storage: 256Gb SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can go for 16gb if you want to spend little more. This configuration will kill all kind of programming IDE's required hardware specifications." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11669" RevisionGUID="8994c445-27e6-47d5-9a99-4334cfc6f60b" CreationDate="2019-07-24T08:52:03.287" UserId="13053" Text="Don't get confused. Go for &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This would be best GPU for your configuration at $270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11218" RevisionGUID="962c2ce8-7143-4e4a-9d12-7ee92099f4da" CreationDate="2019-07-24T10:02:35.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40239" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="c6710e32-93e2-487f-9e6b-174cabdd0143" CreationDate="2019-07-24T11:00:36.707" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11678" RevisionGUID="165a42d0-fec8-422b-8c9f-f86a306a0db5" CreationDate="2019-07-25T13:02:11.513" UserId="12285" Text="If I understand you correctly, you're looking for a device with at least one USB port. Any USB device connected to that ”hub“ will be ”shared“ to the VM. If that's the case, I suggest you to search the internet for the following word combinations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* `USB over IP`&#xD;&#xA;* `USB over ethernet`&#xD;&#xA;* `ethernet USB device server`&#xD;&#xA;* `ethernet USB sharing station`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen deviced by these brands: [Silex][1], [SEH][2], [coolgear][3], [DIGI][4], [SIIG][5], [StarTech][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.silextechnology.com/connectivity-solutions/device-connectivity&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seh-technology.com/products/usb-device-servers.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/hubs-2/usb-over-ethernet&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digi.com/products/networking/usb-connectivity/usb-over-ip&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.siig.com/it-products/device-server/usb-over-ip.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.startech.com/Networking-IO/USB-PS2/10-100-1000-Mbps-Gigabit-1-Port-USB-over-IP-Device-Server~USB1000IP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40265" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="2f234816-15aa-4b39-98c8-5f13fe2409c0" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:23:07.973" UserId="5472" Comment="title, formatting" Text="I’m looking to purchase a decently powerful laptop to use for AutoCAD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few specs that I require:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2.5 GHz quad core CPU&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GiB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Good battery&#xD;&#xA;- Good design (preferably on the thinner side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13, 15 inch. Definitely not 17. Preferably under $1.5k. I’ve been looking at the Huawei Matebook 13 and HP Spectre. Not sure which one to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh also, the Dell XPS 13 looks really good spec wise but I’m not quite settled on the design and price. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40266" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="2f234816-15aa-4b39-98c8-5f13fe2409c0" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:23:07.973" UserId="5472" Comment="title, formatting" Text="What are some good laptops for AutoCAD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40267" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="2f234816-15aa-4b39-98c8-5f13fe2409c0" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:23:07.973" Comment="Proposed by 5472 approved by -1 edit id of 910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40268" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="848d57aa-85ae-4a4f-995a-97206ecdeb8d" CreationDate="2019-07-25T15:23:07.973" UserId="60" Comment="title, formatting" Text="I’m looking to purchase a decently powerful laptop to use for AutoCAD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a few specs that I require:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2.5 GHz quad core CPU&#xD;&#xA;- 8 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 256 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Good battery&#xD;&#xA;- Good design (preferably on the thinner side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13, 15 inch. Definitely not 17. Preferably under $1.5k. I’ve been looking at the Huawei Matebook 13 and HP Spectre. Not sure which one to get.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Dell XPS 13 looks really good spec wise but I’m not quite settled on the design and price. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11681" RevisionGUID="c00588f8-c159-483c-8f6f-89976345f8c2" CreationDate="2019-07-26T06:45:17.387" UserId="13131" Text="I would like to set up 2 access points that would be creating WiFi network for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My preference was to buy MikroTik hAP ac lite TC (RB952Ui-5ac2nD-TC) with MikroTik mAP (RBmAP2nD). The 1st one would be connected to AC power. 2nd I would like to connect to 1st using 20m ethernet cable and power it with PoE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are those 2 devices compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is 20m cat 6 ethernet cable good?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess I need patch cable right?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40288" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11681" RevisionGUID="c00588f8-c159-483c-8f6f-89976345f8c2" CreationDate="2019-07-26T06:45:17.387" UserId="13131" Text="Connecting 2 APs using PoE compatibility concerns" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40289" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11681" RevisionGUID="c00588f8-c159-483c-8f6f-89976345f8c2" CreationDate="2019-07-26T06:45:17.387" UserId="13131" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;poe&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40305" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="86ae75e1-2354-4d3c-aa8c-526162341435" CreationDate="2019-07-27T11:01:30.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11686" RevisionGUID="8239302d-1ed2-463c-b880-96dc1107d814" CreationDate="2019-07-27T12:09:36.390" UserId="13142" Text="I'm about to buy a new laptop computer. I might want a better NVidia GPU on my own computer in the future, and it would be great to keep that option open without buying an expensive machine right away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't find such information on any laptop available online*, so I fear this generally does not exist, at least not for lower-cost models. This [PCWorld article][1] from 2015 suggests that it's possible for some laptops made by the manufacturer Clevo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question:** Are there laptop computers in the range of 1000-1300€ (-1500 USD) that allow to upgrade the GPU? If not, what would be the minimum price for such a computer, if they exist? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;____________________________&#xD;&#xA;\* Except: On the website of one brand (might have been HP or Lenovo), after choosing one random model, the GPU scrolldown-selection list had only one item saying &quot;swappable&quot;. It might have referred to something else though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcworld.com/article/2923779/how-to-upgrade-graphics-in-a-laptop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40307" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11686" RevisionGUID="8239302d-1ed2-463c-b880-96dc1107d814" CreationDate="2019-07-27T12:09:36.390" UserId="13142" Text="Do Laptops exist that allow to swap the GPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40308" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11686" RevisionGUID="8239302d-1ed2-463c-b880-96dc1107d814" CreationDate="2019-07-27T12:09:36.390" UserId="13142" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11686" RevisionGUID="4cda4ffe-fa55-40b3-b1ed-2b2fc9d46c6f" CreationDate="2019-07-27T15:15:32.273" UserId="13142" Comment="deleted 258 characters in body" Text="I'm about to buy a new laptop computer. I might want a better NVidia GPU on my own computer in the future, and it would be great to keep that option open without buying an expensive machine right away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't find such information on any laptop available online*, so I fear this generally does not exist, at least not for lower-cost models. This [PCWorld article][1] from 2015 suggests that it's possible for some laptops made by the manufacturer Clevo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question:** Are there laptop computers in the range of 1000-1300€ (-1500 USD) that allow to upgrade the GPU? If not, what would be the minimum price for such a computer, if they exist? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcworld.com/article/2923779/how-to-upgrade-graphics-in-a-laptop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="7bbf1cdb-605b-4c86-8139-b6591ab8b231" CreationDate="2019-07-27T21:26:14.413" UserId="13145" Text="I'm looking for a 32 inch 4k monitor for general use as well as photo editing.  I'm just an amatuer photographer so I'm not super picky but I want something that will last a while. My budget is $1200.00.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Dell u3219q, Benq pd3200u. I don't like that the Dell is not flicker free and I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the color range of the Benq and lack of HDR.  I also bought two Asus pa329q's but they both had dead pixels so I sent them back and am looking elsewhere.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40314" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="7bbf1cdb-605b-4c86-8139-b6591ab8b231" CreationDate="2019-07-27T21:26:14.413" UserId="13145" Text="Photo Editing Monitor suggestion? 30-32 inch 4k &lt;=$1200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40315" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="7bbf1cdb-605b-4c86-8139-b6591ab8b231" CreationDate="2019-07-27T21:26:14.413" UserId="13145" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40316" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="a686f6ac-1ad6-4a11-b73f-dc486119fa50" CreationDate="2019-07-27T21:57:20.337" UserId="13145" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a 32 inch 4k monitor for general use as well as photo editing.  I'm just an amatuer photographer so I'm not super picky but I want something that will last a while. My budget is $1200.00.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the Dell u3219q, Benq pd3200u. I don't like that the Dell is not flicker free and I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the color range of the Benq and lack of HDR.  I also bought two Asus pa329q's but they both had dead pixels so I sent them back and am looking elsewhere.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;Another possible option is LG's 32UL950-W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40319" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="5133b5ef-980e-48c6-a0d5-6bb6a04b5c2e" CreationDate="2019-07-28T15:00:56.620" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11690" RevisionGUID="ad33f1b2-2766-4f39-9989-244759e95036" CreationDate="2019-07-28T18:38:16.100" UserId="10626" Text="I have a bunch of 5V devices (Raspberry Pi and Arduino devices, and LED strips) that need a power supply. I'm currently using a bunch of transformers from BTF Lighting (the ones shown on the image below, not the black ones) which work well, but have one major caveat: **they all consume four to five watts of power, even when not powering anything at all**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When the number of those devices is limited, this is not a big deal. However, as I do more and more “smart home”-type projects, 5W multiplied by the number of transformers remaining on permanently starts to be problematic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ordinary phone USB chargers have a consumption of less than 0.1W when not powering anything. I would be glad to use them, but they are mostly rated 2A or 3A. This is perfectly fine if I need to power a Raspberry Pi, but not OK for a LED strip (5V, 4A transformers from BTF Lighting were heating a lot when used with one strip + Raspberry Pi + Arduino, so I'm relying on 5V, 12A transformers, or on 20A transformers when needed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, where can I find a transformer which would match the following requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Be as energy efficient as the high quality USB phone chargers.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Have the same format as the transformers on the image above (i.e. screw connectors).&#xD;&#xA; 1. Have 5V 12A and 5V 20A variants.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Include over-voltage protection and short-circuit protection.&#xD;&#xA; 1. Cost less than $40.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEK3A.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40321" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11690" RevisionGUID="ad33f1b2-2766-4f39-9989-244759e95036" CreationDate="2019-07-28T18:38:16.100" UserId="10626" Text="5V transformers rated 12A or 20A which are energy efficient" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40322" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11690" RevisionGUID="ad33f1b2-2766-4f39-9989-244759e95036" CreationDate="2019-07-28T18:38:16.100" UserId="10626" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40341" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10697" RevisionGUID="cbd3f21b-934f-4075-9eea-57d865d5746f" CreationDate="2019-07-30T09:02:15.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40348" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11699" RevisionGUID="7efeb786-f022-4db1-8cca-c539256b67d1" CreationDate="2019-07-30T11:26:06.050" UserId="13161" Text="I am thinking on building a computer. I would like to use one of the new Ryzen CPUs, probably the Ryzen 3600. The problem came up when I had to pick the motherboard. Most motherboards support the new Ryzen 300 series but only with a BIOS update. I don't have access to a Ryzen 200 series CPU (2xxx) so, I can't flash a BIOS by switching the CPUs. Is there any new motherboard that supports the new Ryzen CPUs out of the box or an old one that already comes with an updated BIOS? Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40349" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11699" RevisionGUID="7efeb786-f022-4db1-8cca-c539256b67d1" CreationDate="2019-07-30T11:26:06.050" UserId="13161" Text="Is there any motherboard that supports Ryzen 3xxx out of the box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40350" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11699" RevisionGUID="7efeb786-f022-4db1-8cca-c539256b67d1" CreationDate="2019-07-30T11:26:06.050" UserId="13161" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11702" RevisionGUID="12c34339-f26b-4ba1-9a23-941068729533" CreationDate="2019-07-31T04:30:24.313" UserId="13165" Text="I am currently deciding between two laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. ThinkPad T460 with 512 SSD, 16 RAM, &amp; i5-6300U&#xD;&#xA;2. ThinkPad X1 Carbon with 256 SSD, 8 RAM &amp; i7-5600U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Both Refurbished)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The X1 is a fairly new model, much more so than the T460, but it has lower RAM and storage than the T460, an older model with better RAM and storage. The X1 is superior in terms of CPU, however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to pick the laptop that will have a longer lifespan and will give me solid performance overall for the tasks that I will which include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Software Development in Python, C++, Java (VS Code and Github Desktop)&#xD;&#xA;- Browsing with 15-20 tabs open (max)&#xD;&#xA;- Working with Wolfram Mathematica&#xD;&#xA;- Basic work with CAD software&#xD;&#xA;- A lot of ML&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video/Photo editing will have a frequency of rare to none.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which laptop is better for my purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11702" RevisionGUID="12c34339-f26b-4ba1-9a23-941068729533" CreationDate="2019-07-31T04:30:24.313" UserId="13165" Text="ThinkPad T460 with high RAM/Storage &amp; i5 or ThinkPad X1 Carbon with medium RAM/Storage &amp; i7?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11702" RevisionGUID="12c34339-f26b-4ba1-9a23-941068729533" CreationDate="2019-07-31T04:30:24.313" UserId="13165" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11705" RevisionGUID="3f466bdf-8726-4dea-ae68-99817afa8973" CreationDate="2019-07-31T11:25:01.003" UserId="56" Text="Any Alfa adapter will probably do. A popular one:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Alfa AWUS036NHA](https://www.alfa.com.tw/products_detail/7.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trust me, their products work a lot better than their site looks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of their products are available in Europe, the stronger ones not legal to use at full power though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11706" RevisionGUID="91b8b5b0-4b44-491c-8a4f-49a030328162" CreationDate="2019-07-31T11:29:05.750" UserId="56" Text="My job is about to get relocated and the new office has an open floorplan. My current headphones (Sennheiser HD 4.40 BT) sound good but aren't well equipped to keep such noise out. To avoid having to raise the volume further, I'm looking into Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard that in ANC-world the [Sony WH-1000XM3](https://www.sony.com/electronics/headband-headphones/wh-1000xm3) is about the best you can get. I've also heard their app (Sony Connect) doesn't work for half their userbase. So, I'm looking for something like that and interested in whether or not that particular set is going to be a good choice, but something similar is welcome too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- price under or around 300 euro and available in Europe.&#xD;&#xA;- well above average ANC. My ears don't handle bad electronics very well (the very reason why I'm only considering them now and not when the technology was first released). It has to work very well.&#xD;&#xA;- bonus points if they've capabilities for both wired and wireless." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40371" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11706" RevisionGUID="91b8b5b0-4b44-491c-8a4f-49a030328162" CreationDate="2019-07-31T11:29:05.750" UserId="56" Text="Active Noise Cancellation headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40372" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11706" RevisionGUID="91b8b5b0-4b44-491c-8a4f-49a030328162" CreationDate="2019-07-31T11:29:05.750" UserId="56" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40373" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11686" RevisionGUID="4f0ba40c-f91d-4854-a2d8-e77b2f7e6970" CreationDate="2019-07-31T14:07:57.233" UserId="13142" Comment="Edited away the asterisk that I forgot to remove when removing the comment attached to it before" Text="I'm about to buy a new laptop computer. I might want a better NVidia GPU on my own computer in the future, and it would be great to keep that option open without buying an expensive machine right away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't find such information on any laptop available online, so I fear this generally does not exist, at least not for lower-cost models. This [PCWorld article][1] from 2015 suggests that it's possible for some laptops made by the manufacturer Clevo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The question:** Are there laptop computers in the range of 1000-1300€ (-1500 USD) that allow to upgrade the GPU? If not, what would be the minimum price for such a computer, if they exist? &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcworld.com/article/2923779/how-to-upgrade-graphics-in-a-laptop.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11702" RevisionGUID="f59f6d89-6830-43ad-a256-ff1755b5a81d" CreationDate="2019-07-31T18:27:08.907" UserId="13165" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I am currently deciding between two laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. ThinkPad T460 with 512 GB SSD, 16 GB RAM, &amp; i5-6300U&#xD;&#xA;2. ThinkPad X1 Carbon with 256 GB SSD, 8 GB RAM &amp; i7-5600U&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Both Refurbished)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The X1 is a fairly new model, much more so than the T460, but it has lower RAM and storage than the T460, an older model with better RAM and storage. The X1 is superior in terms of CPU, however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to pick the laptop that will have a longer lifespan and will give me solid performance overall for the tasks that I will which include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Software Development in Python, C++, Java (VS Code and Github Desktop)&#xD;&#xA;- Browsing with 15-20 tabs open (max)&#xD;&#xA;- Working with Wolfram Mathematica&#xD;&#xA;- Basic work with CAD software&#xD;&#xA;- A lot of ML&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video/Photo editing will have a frequency of rare to none.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which laptop is better for my purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40391" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="b184366c-a184-412b-bec5-b39efccf7181" CreationDate="2019-07-31T19:01:35.157" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40393" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11681" RevisionGUID="a284e265-fd3f-4aba-94ad-f9ab916d25f9" CreationDate="2019-07-31T19:24:21.697" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="40394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11710" RevisionGUID="ae0c9b36-c8f5-4389-bb0d-d26d5c71def7" CreationDate="2019-08-01T09:49:23.230" UserId="13053" Text="You can not upgrade your laptop's gpu but you can make custom laptop according to your preference. I am providing a link below you can visit if you want to make custom laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.originpc.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11713" RevisionGUID="2cc25877-ffd9-4e36-a7eb-c896c1f8b7db" CreationDate="2019-08-01T12:48:16.193" UserId="12923" Text="Actually I'm thinking to buy the Samsung UR59C (4K, 32&quot;, 60Hz). I imagine that it's what you're looking for, and the price is just amazing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find more about it [here](https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/curved/32-ur59c-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-lu32r590cwnxza/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![samsung][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9JuBh.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11714" RevisionGUID="b99d3eff-43d8-4856-90e0-581d6cffbd65" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:16:41.413" UserId="6175" Text="I am looking for a device which offers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FM radio or DAB radio&#xD;&#xA; - No wifi connection required&#xD;&#xA; - Can be plugged into a power socket (no batteries)&#xD;&#xA; - Allows to connect a Bluetooth headset to listen to the music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking online, and I found this device:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.pure.com/nl/dab-radio/products/move-t4/black&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if possible, I would like to have something a little cheaper." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11714" RevisionGUID="b99d3eff-43d8-4856-90e0-581d6cffbd65" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:16:41.413" UserId="6175" Text="FM/DAB radio which allows to connect bluetooth headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11714" RevisionGUID="b99d3eff-43d8-4856-90e0-581d6cffbd65" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:16:41.413" UserId="6175" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11716" RevisionGUID="8001aee7-3bbf-4605-bafb-79dc083627fb" CreationDate="2019-08-01T19:21:29.560" UserId="476" Text="Nowadays, this isn't really possible - as of now (2019), there are no laptops that have exchangeable GPUs that I'm aware of. However, eGPUs are a way that you can upgrade the GPU of a laptop, though they lack the portability of an inbuilt GPU and are typically rather expensive." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40419" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11717" RevisionGUID="bdbea424-acf5-457b-b6d6-494136d0029a" CreationDate="2019-08-02T09:32:52.310" UserId="13179" Text="We are currently recording our student attendance manually on paper and feeding it on the system at a later time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problems are many&#xD;&#xA;1. Slow to search for the student on paper - although it's grouped class wise and we have 200 students only. It causes errors many a times too.&#xD;&#xA;2. Tasking to match paper records to system every time&#xD;&#xA;3. We want to send SMS immediately to parents if the student is absent&#xD;&#xA;4. The system is currently offline but we want to store it on a website now. We can continue the same process but of uploading it online now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We are thinking of using a biometric fingerprint device to solve 1. I.e. speed up and avoid errors. We would export the data and store it online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My concern is that the process of uploading is manual and I have a tingling feeling that something can go wrong. We have to upload the records then the SMS alerts can go. So if we delay uploading, the SMS concept will be unworthy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wished to give students cards with a barcode which would be scanned. This way speed is increased and errors are minimised like for a biometric fingerprint scanner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue with this is that our students can often forget their cards unlike their fingerprints :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We don't have a device here that works with auto records uploading in my city unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you suggest a way (s) that can allow attendance recording to an online system with the same benefits as above?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40420" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11717" RevisionGUID="bdbea424-acf5-457b-b6d6-494136d0029a" CreationDate="2019-08-02T09:32:52.310" UserId="13179" Text="An alternative to a fingerprint scanner to directly store registrations online" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40421" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11717" RevisionGUID="bdbea424-acf5-457b-b6d6-494136d0029a" CreationDate="2019-08-02T09:32:52.310" UserId="13179" Text="&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11719" RevisionGUID="7289d867-64a8-4e2c-a4a3-58dc40bff83c" CreationDate="2019-08-02T14:54:34.417" UserId="13182" Text="I'm in a similar situation, and use Bose QuietComfort 35.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I've not experienced any issues with the Bose Connect app, although I tend not to use it much. It has a 4.7 star rating on the iOS app store.&#xD;&#xA;* The QC35s are currently available for around 270EUR from amazon.es, but may be cheaper elsewhere&#xD;&#xA;* I haven't tried the model you mentioned, but with previous Sony headsets (and other cheaper ones) I've experienced the awful 'loud silence' when the SPL is too high from ANC, causing discomfort or a headache. I do not experience that with the Bose headset. With no music playing, the ANC is very good for constant sounds, like air conditioning, but loud chatter close to you will still be slightly audible. Any music being played easily drowns everything else out though.&#xD;&#xA;* They are bluetooth, and include a short cable in the case too. It is not a normal headphone jack (2.5mm in stead of 3.5mm), but is a standard size, so longer cables or adaptors can be had for &lt;10EUR. However, others have had issues with [not being able to adjust the ANC level while using a cable](https://community.bose.com/t5/Headphones-Archive/QC35-II-how-to-turn-off-ANC-in-wired-powered-mode/m-p/136720), if this is important to you you might want to research further first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40429" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11508" RevisionGUID="6d21eb2b-ef72-4d92-8077-2e35259bb91a" CreationDate="2019-08-02T15:02:45.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="154c908f-9430-4af4-9b39-adacf719e5a9" CreationDate="2019-08-03T06:48:22.230" UserId="13187" Text="I've already have HPE Proliant Gen9 server, and at first I slotted 8 * 16 GB RAM,&#xD;&#xA;but Now I need to add more Ram, So is it possible to add 64/32 GB Ram beside the 16 GB Ram?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40444" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="154c908f-9430-4af4-9b39-adacf719e5a9" CreationDate="2019-08-03T06:48:22.230" UserId="13187" Text="HP ProLiant DL380 Gen 9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40445" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="154c908f-9430-4af4-9b39-adacf719e5a9" CreationDate="2019-08-03T06:48:22.230" UserId="13187" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11725" RevisionGUID="c4518f0d-3ded-4153-8517-3f4ab120dcf0" CreationDate="2019-08-03T08:05:50.887" UserId="10626" Text="According to the manual ([PDF][1]), page 5:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 128GB LRDIMM may not be mixed with other DIMM capacities/types.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Same on page 26:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; NOTE: Mixing the 128GB LRDIMM with other capacities is not supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the manual says nothing about mixing 16 GB with 32/64 GB, it should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be careful, as always, when choosing the type (registered or not, load reduced or not) and the frequency, and ensure the CPU is compatible with the RAM you want to buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://h20195.www2.hpe.com/v2/getpdf.aspx/c04346247.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11729" RevisionGUID="ec77f42e-7d4c-4873-9cfa-bc320d9ede0c" CreationDate="2019-08-03T15:46:29.310" UserId="7325" Text="I'm looking for a digital picture frame with 4k resolution. What I found are Samsung's &quot;The Frame&quot;, but the smallest one is 43&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody know about a 4k digital picture frame in the 20&quot;-32&quot; range?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11729" RevisionGUID="ec77f42e-7d4c-4873-9cfa-bc320d9ede0c" CreationDate="2019-08-03T15:46:29.310" UserId="7325" Text="Digital picture frame with 4k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11729" RevisionGUID="ec77f42e-7d4c-4873-9cfa-bc320d9ede0c" CreationDate="2019-08-03T15:46:29.310" UserId="7325" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="cfedab2d-4a50-4cf7-ac20-38d6d9a20d8a" CreationDate="2019-08-03T18:05:54.310" UserId="10476" Text="For an intensive video processing workflow (lot of sequential reading and seeking), I selected the 2TB Seagate FireCuda 510 SSD M2 and the 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus; they have few differences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Firecuda has better endurance: 2.6TB written, 1.8Mh MTBF vs 1.2TB written, 1.5Mh MTBF (970 Evo plus)&#xD;&#xA; - Firecuda has better price: 293EUR vs 366EUR (970 Evo Plus, 25% more expensive)&#xD;&#xA; - 970 Evo plus has slightly better read/write speeds: (3.5GBps, 3.3GBps, 620kiops, 560kiops) vs (3.45GBps, 3.2GBps, 485kiops, 600kiops)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other features are not significantly different. Do you recommand any for my usage ? I have already a 970 evo plus 1TB for the system and for a part of the scratch work; both SSD will be on the Z390 pcie channel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40464" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="cfedab2d-4a50-4cf7-ac20-38d6d9a20d8a" CreationDate="2019-08-03T18:05:54.310" UserId="10476" Text="NVMe drive for video intensive work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40465" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="cfedab2d-4a50-4cf7-ac20-38d6d9a20d8a" CreationDate="2019-08-03T18:05:54.310" UserId="10476" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40466" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="595a198c-ee54-4992-aa59-7387b0a09184" CreationDate="2019-08-03T23:00:50.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11733" RevisionGUID="60e1dab7-caf5-44e3-b89e-e2872ed970ad" CreationDate="2019-08-04T09:31:11.187" UserId="13194" Text="I'm looking for a flash storage solution that combines highest achievable read durability with the lowest price. Low speeds and relatively small capacity are acceptable, as I'm looking to embed these drives into other physical goods.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my research, I've found that the main factor that affects life expectancy of flash digital storage is writes (or, rather, erases). Luckily, for my use case, I expect to write **once** though read frequently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[These &quot;Walletsticks&quot;](https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Chic-WalletStick-USB-Flash-Drive-With_60636654070.html) is closest thing I was able to find, but I'm wondering whether it's possible to do better? The advertised data retention time on these is 10 years, whereas I'm hoping to extend that even further." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40474" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11733" RevisionGUID="60e1dab7-caf5-44e3-b89e-e2872ed970ad" CreationDate="2019-08-04T09:31:11.187" UserId="13194" Text="Extreme longevity read-only flash storage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40475" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11733" RevisionGUID="60e1dab7-caf5-44e3-b89e-e2872ed970ad" CreationDate="2019-08-04T09:31:11.187" UserId="13194" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11737" RevisionGUID="2d6de80d-4070-4df2-9de4-5a8cf6f8cf20" CreationDate="2019-08-05T02:55:20.743" UserId="13199" Text="I don't know if this is the place to ask this but I'll try anyway. Asking for a friend so I won't be able to provide all the information.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They want a general purpose laptop to use for school and a little bit of gaming. The gaming won't be high end at all so it doesn't need to be super powerful or anything. A few requirements are below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10  &#xD;&#xA;8 GB of RAM  &#xD;&#xA;512 GB Memory  &#xD;&#xA;$500 - 600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If any other information is needed ask and I'll try to find out&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11737" RevisionGUID="2d6de80d-4070-4df2-9de4-5a8cf6f8cf20" CreationDate="2019-08-05T02:55:20.743" UserId="13199" Text="I would like to find a laptop for general purpose use and a little gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11737" RevisionGUID="2d6de80d-4070-4df2-9de4-5a8cf6f8cf20" CreationDate="2019-08-05T02:55:20.743" UserId="13199" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40490" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11738" RevisionGUID="caef5edb-1a75-4177-ac7a-0bdafd2e514b" CreationDate="2019-08-05T05:27:43.577" UserId="13053" Text="&gt; Acer Aspire E15 at  $599.99&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Core i5-8250U 1.6 GHz&#xD;&#xA;* Ram - 8GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;* NVIDIA GeForce MX150&#xD;&#xA;* Storage - 256GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 15.6” FHD IPS (1920 x 1080)&#xD;&#xA;* Battery Life - 15 hours&#xD;&#xA;* Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*** 256GB SSD is far more faster than 500GB HDD ***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You can visit the link given below to buy or see the specifications&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FLBJV7?creativeASIN=B075FLBJV7&amp;linkCode=w61&amp;imprToken=G5aW3AJR5gr.83YRFgeJIw&amp;slotNum=5&amp;tag=bestlaptopsworld-20][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FLBJV7?creativeASIN=B075FLBJV7&amp;linkCode=w61&amp;imprToken=G5aW3AJR5gr.83YRFgeJIw&amp;slotNum=5&amp;tag=bestlaptopsworld-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11741" RevisionGUID="ad227c04-6e51-4d3d-bfb6-8780552b3e3b" CreationDate="2019-08-05T11:46:59.517" UserId="13203" Text=" - i7 5820k&#xA; - Mother: x99A&#xA; - Display: C27J50&#xA;&#xA;I currently have a rx470 and I still can't run the maximum refresh rate at that resolution&#xA;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11741" RevisionGUID="ad227c04-6e51-4d3d-bfb6-8780552b3e3b" CreationDate="2019-08-05T11:46:59.517" UserId="13203" Text="Video board for 2k at 144Hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11741" RevisionGUID="ad227c04-6e51-4d3d-bfb6-8780552b3e3b" CreationDate="2019-08-05T11:46:59.517" UserId="13203" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11744" RevisionGUID="27da5881-f235-4ccd-870d-01874b32c935" CreationDate="2019-08-05T13:55:33.493" UserId="12923" Text="You should look to buy a NVIDIA [**GTX 1080ti**](https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/) or [**RTX 2080ti**](https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/20-series/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This](https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/anl1ln/which_gpu_for_2k_144hz_gaming/) Reddit post will help you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**IMPORTANT**: You should check if your MotherBoard accepts that Video Cards and if there's space inside the case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11748" RevisionGUID="fe18e07b-8430-4454-89b9-ab47039b7ec5" CreationDate="2019-08-05T22:05:52.507" UserId="13208" Text="I want to start a project using java to make led strips in my room react to the audio being played (preferrably via mp3 on my phone/pc, not just through picking up on sound in my room). However, I don't know what LED strips i need/what to look for in them that would allow me to control them via a java program and not their built-in music sync programs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there are LED strips like these: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/HeySuun-Changing-Controller-Flexible-Bedroom/dp/B07RHHJHM3/ref=zg_bs_17534489011_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HENJ83K2ECF719Y3E3ME&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/L8star-Bluetooth-Smartphone-Controller-Decoration/dp/B07SR1HY8L/ref=zg_bs_17534489011_32?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HENJ83K2ECF719Y3E3ME&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I don't know if I would be able to control those via my own program (probably running on a Raspberry Pi board). So basically, &lt;b&gt;what LED strips would allow me to control them via a &quot;music sync&quot; program of my own?&lt;/b&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11748" RevisionGUID="fe18e07b-8430-4454-89b9-ab47039b7ec5" CreationDate="2019-08-05T22:05:52.507" UserId="13208" Text="Which LED strips should I buy for a music sync project?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11748" RevisionGUID="fe18e07b-8430-4454-89b9-ab47039b7ec5" CreationDate="2019-08-05T22:05:52.507" UserId="13208" Text="&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11733" RevisionGUID="8b3d0147-96f1-4857-862c-c4eaeeaf12c5" CreationDate="2019-08-06T08:58:36.120" UserId="13194" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a flash storage solution that combines highest achievable read durability with the lowest price. Low speeds and relatively small capacity (1 GB minimum) are acceptable. I'm looking to encase these drives myself, so the appearance is irrelevant and the more barebones they are, the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my research, I've found that the main factor that affects life expectancy of flash digital storage is writes (or, rather, erases). Luckily, for my use case, I expect to write **once** though read frequently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[These &quot;Walletsticks&quot;](https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Chic-WalletStick-USB-Flash-Drive-With_60636654070.html) is closest thing I was able to find, but I'm wondering whether it's possible to do better? The advertised data retention time on these is 10 years, whereas I'm hoping to extend that even further." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11752" RevisionGUID="47a2d232-2ebe-4a0a-a64e-d9ef8bd05c28" CreationDate="2019-08-06T11:02:57.943" UserId="7222" Text="There are many kind of LED strips, however, if you work with Raspberry (or any MCU), I guess you want to use addressable led strips (like WS2811, WS2812, WS2813).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that you can switch on the Red/Green/Blue color of each LED separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want that, use non addressable LED strips (of course these are cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between WS2811, WS2812, WS2813 is (among others) the fact that if one LED is broken, the remainder of the strip still works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are LED strips who can handle water/liquid slightly better (for outdoor use).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40541" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="0dcb0158-9b4c-4878-b3ea-3af7ce59d598" CreationDate="2019-08-07T01:02:20.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11752" RevisionGUID="7f153416-455d-43e2-825e-394f45e3ef02" CreationDate="2019-08-07T08:57:05.187" UserId="7222" Comment="added 608 characters in body" Text="There are many kind of LED strips, however, if you work with Raspberry (or any MCU), I guess you want to use addressable led strips (like WS2811, WS2812, WS2813).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that you can switch on the Red/Green/Blue color of each LED separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want that, use non addressable LED strips (of course these are cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between WS2811, WS2812, WS2813 is (among others) the fact that if one LED is broken, the remainder of the strip still works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are LED strips who can handle water/liquid slightly better (for outdoor use).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some differences (from [Differences][1]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- WS2811 is the old version with external IC , it often made to DC12v addressable strip light, has only one signal too but it is mature for many years.&#xD;&#xA;- WS2812B LED strip has only one data signal when one pixel dies, the signal cannot pass through,&#xD;&#xA;- WS2813 digital LED strip, you can see as updated version of WS2811 addressable LED strip, it has double signals even one signal is broken, others can still work well, because the signal can pass through,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.suntechleds.com/info/what-is-the-difference-ws2811-vs-ws2812b-vs-ws-34944590.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11752" RevisionGUID="89f73a8b-30e9-4c50-83dc-f69ea6bd6699" CreationDate="2019-08-07T22:04:52.367" UserId="7222" Comment="added 599 characters in body" Text="There are many kind of LED strips, however, if you work with Raspberry (or any MCU), I guess you want to use addressable led strips (like WS2811, WS2812, WS2813).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason is that you can switch on the Red/Green/Blue color of each LED separately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want that, use non addressable LED strips (of course these are cheaper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The difference between WS2811, WS2812, WS2813 is (among others) the fact that if one LED is broken, the remainder of the strip still works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also there are LED strips who can handle water/liquid slightly better (for outdoor use).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some differences (from [Differences][1]):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- WS2811 is the old version with external IC , it often made to DC12v addressable strip light, has only one signal too but it is mature for many years.&#xD;&#xA;- WS2812B LED strip has only one data signal when one pixel dies, the signal cannot pass through,&#xD;&#xA;- WS2813 digital LED strip, you can see as updated version of WS2811 addressable LED strip, it has double signals even one signal is broken, others can still work well, because the signal can pass through,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Update after remark from Arseni below):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Except for a led strip you also need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A microcontroller (to control it), if you have an addressable led strip&#xD;&#xA;- A library (at least for 'beginners' to be able to control it, for the microcontroller you use&#xD;&#xA;- Your own code, to let the program make the colors you want, and when&#xD;&#xA;- An external power source, if you have more than a few LEDs (not LED strips, but separate LEDs), you need an external power source that is strong enough.&#xD;&#xA;- For some (older) LED strips you might need a resistor, on newer types it's built in; same for a capacitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.suntechleds.com/info/what-is-the-difference-ws2811-vs-ws2812b-vs-ws-34944590.html&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11761" RevisionGUID="6878c836-9c46-48f8-8181-5b4c6c8cfa2b" CreationDate="2019-08-07T22:06:43.390" UserId="13230" Text="I want to update my old PC with 24 Gb of DDR3 to a new PC with DDR4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I do not want to throw away that large amount of DDR3 memory, I want to make a DDR3 drive, to use as temporary storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a recommendation for PCIE cards that use DDR3 DIMM to emulate a storage drive.&#xD;&#xA;The OS will be Windows 10 64b, and I want a cheap card.&#xD;&#xA;I do not need external power or batteries, because is only for temporary storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had been looking for on Amazon, and didn’t found anything. I don’t even know what is the name of what I should be searching for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found that Gigabyte used to make a product, named  i-RAM, but is discontinued.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11761" RevisionGUID="6878c836-9c46-48f8-8181-5b4c6c8cfa2b" CreationDate="2019-08-07T22:06:43.390" UserId="13230" Text="Card to make a DDR3 &quot;hard drive&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11761" RevisionGUID="6878c836-9c46-48f8-8181-5b4c6c8cfa2b" CreationDate="2019-08-07T22:06:43.390" UserId="13230" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11763" RevisionGUID="f3152b4f-a390-4565-8758-393bf408b3b3" CreationDate="2019-08-08T04:51:08.050" UserId="13211" Text="You could check out Nokia Smartphones. They are of good quality and has a good life when compared with others. It is also affordable. Or else you could check out the BlackBerry Android phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.nokia.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://blackberrymobile.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40564" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="d2dee5c3-49c7-4ab3-a103-85a12d68bf5e" CreationDate="2019-08-08T05:00:45.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40565" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11764" RevisionGUID="caf02fe9-6917-4323-94fb-1f593347d44e" CreationDate="2019-08-08T06:03:46.107" UserId="13232" Text="I use LinuxMint OS, and work with Fortran, Python, and Openfoam for scientific computing and fluid dynamics simulation. I am buying a new laptop from ASUS that has GEFORCE GTX 1650 (4 GB) card (fits my budget). May I ask if this GPU card can be used for numerical computations and simulation that are not too intensive? I have limited experience with Quadro cards. Thank you for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40566" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11764" RevisionGUID="caf02fe9-6917-4323-94fb-1f593347d44e" CreationDate="2019-08-08T06:03:46.107" UserId="13232" Text="Is Nvidia's GEFORCE GTX 1650 suitable for scientific computing and simulation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40567" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11764" RevisionGUID="caf02fe9-6917-4323-94fb-1f593347d44e" CreationDate="2019-08-08T06:03:46.107" UserId="13232" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40585" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="b1380233-3250-4d71-b412-9d8522460a00" CreationDate="2019-08-08T11:02:30.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11771" RevisionGUID="771597db-c30e-4d57-8503-5d89973a5981" CreationDate="2019-08-08T11:56:11.217" UserId="10476" Text="Both will be lightning fast. After investigation, the 970 is only a bit faster on sequential tranfer such as big files, and a bit slower on games and program folders; ie., for video seeking, it will be faster. Firecuda accumulates all the advantages (speed by small margins, twice lifetime/reliability (like 970 pro), 25% lower price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] https://www.pcmag.com/review/366078/samsung-ssd-970-evo-plus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2] https://www.pcmag.com/review/368665/seagate-firecuda-510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40590" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8511" RevisionGUID="316bc77c-1dbc-4600-9ae5-7562ed7e230c" CreationDate="2019-08-08T13:03:10.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11773" RevisionGUID="b1197100-013b-4085-80de-aa6de0969056" CreationDate="2019-08-08T14:31:20.967" UserId="13238" Text="Some things to consider:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - the i7 is not that much better than the i5 (https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-5600U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6300U/m22612vsm27864)&#xD;&#xA; - T460 has full size HDMI output and ethernet port&#xD;&#xA; - X1 is thinner and lighter (more portable)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would go with the **T460** because of the additional RAM and storage. I think you will be able to use it longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, **both are great laptops**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11775" RevisionGUID="67b9b207-fd34-4dfa-806f-278194d340c1" CreationDate="2019-08-08T15:29:10.607" UserId="13240" Text="I am working on an online ordering platform for retail businesses. The platform will allow customers to create their order on our platform and then pick up and pay for the order in-store. We are in need of a preferably bluetooth thermal printer that has an SDK that we can hook into so that the orders that are placed on our platform print out automatically at the store. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40596" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11775" RevisionGUID="67b9b207-fd34-4dfa-806f-278194d340c1" CreationDate="2019-08-08T15:29:10.607" UserId="13240" Text="Bluetooth Thermal Printer with SDK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40597" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11775" RevisionGUID="67b9b207-fd34-4dfa-806f-278194d340c1" CreationDate="2019-08-08T15:29:10.607" UserId="13240" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11776" RevisionGUID="8225a4e9-ff8f-4bc6-b4ce-2cc508e24ffa" CreationDate="2019-08-08T16:52:37.150" UserId="13242" Text="I'm working on a small project that require computer vision boards. As many as possible.&#xD;&#xA;Wifi ability is not necessary, I can get ESP8266-01s with a dollar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OpenMV is too expensive and not easy to deploy.&#xD;&#xA;Rasp Zero W is OK, but my board stopped functioning three day after I bought it.&#xD;&#xA;I'm now using Nanopi Duo2, have issues installing miniconda, but it is the best choice I know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried ESP32-CAM a year ago, but it seems impossible to use python on it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11776" RevisionGUID="8225a4e9-ff8f-4bc6-b4ce-2cc508e24ffa" CreationDate="2019-08-08T16:52:37.150" UserId="13242" Text="cheapest OpenCV board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11776" RevisionGUID="8225a4e9-ff8f-4bc6-b4ce-2cc508e24ffa" CreationDate="2019-08-08T16:52:37.150" UserId="13242" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40602" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11777" RevisionGUID="44f2680b-da27-4ad9-9bf7-9ec04109d3b5" CreationDate="2019-08-08T17:53:25.910" UserId="13241" Text="I am building a PC with the purpose of creating Blockchain applications. I would much appreciate recommendations for CPUs. Around the price range of '$300-$450'" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40603" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11777" RevisionGUID="44f2680b-da27-4ad9-9bf7-9ec04109d3b5" CreationDate="2019-08-08T17:53:25.910" UserId="13241" Text="Blockchain hyperledger CPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40604" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11777" RevisionGUID="44f2680b-da27-4ad9-9bf7-9ec04109d3b5" CreationDate="2019-08-08T17:53:25.910" UserId="13241" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40607" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="7ddf2343-dbab-46bc-ac2d-c7029d31adfd" CreationDate="2019-08-09T01:01:05.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40608" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="d4d9110a-7d9e-4877-8ee0-b2f72372a1ba" CreationDate="2019-08-09T02:02:25.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11778" RevisionGUID="896db4d8-ec72-42d7-bb91-10009263a2de" CreationDate="2019-08-09T08:04:13.020" UserId="13238" Text="I currently have a Ryzen 5 1600 + GTX 1080 setup. I'm getting about 100fps in most games at 1440p165hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So if you really want to push 144fps, I would recommend getting a 1080ti or better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GTX 1080ti&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2080 (Super)&#xD;&#xA;- RTX 2080ti (Super)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You **might** be able to get away with a 2070 (Super), but I would get one of the above." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40613" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2117" RevisionGUID="dbe3e986-bf2e-42a5-bb2e-e0d81480fd73" CreationDate="2019-08-09T10:03:30.603" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40618" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="977414a2-04a8-44d5-abc8-653b28a42fe1" CreationDate="2019-08-09T16:03:35.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="f3b8090a-b6e5-4f71-905c-a93fec4e5fc4" CreationDate="2019-08-09T16:19:19.053" UserId="13248" Text="I need to buy a new battery.Model of battery is Li-Ion Battery Pack A41-K53 Rating=14.4v 2600mAh,37Wh.I searched and found same model.But volt and mAh is different.Volt of new battery I looked is 10.8 and mAh is 4400.If I bought that battery.Would I have a problem ?.What is other thing I should care?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40620" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="f3b8090a-b6e5-4f71-905c-a93fec4e5fc4" CreationDate="2019-08-09T16:19:19.053" UserId="13248" Text="what should I care to buy new baterry pack for laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40621" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="f3b8090a-b6e5-4f71-905c-a93fec4e5fc4" CreationDate="2019-08-09T16:19:19.053" UserId="13248" Text="&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9791" RevisionGUID="7e11aae7-7f90-424b-bee7-f893f15795b1" CreationDate="2019-08-09T17:09:16.740" UserId="1364" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I am looking forward to invest in a good GPU/ASIC for Machine-Learning research. I do not want to choose any of NVIDIA's consumer-grade GPUs as they are mainly gaming oriented and the price I'd be paying wouldn't be justified as I won't be using any game-play oriented features like Ray Tracing. And also, the previous generation GPUs' prices have gone up despite the launch of new 20XX series making the 10XX not a good buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD's consumer-grade GPUs aren't still powerful enough as their counterparts and their enterprise-grade GPUs are too costly and don't justify the price to performance ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, [Habana Labs][1] announced their ML oriented chipset but its samples ship Q2 of 2019 and I might consider waiting if it is justified.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, are there any Good consumer grade ASIC/GPUs for ML?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S: I don't mind library support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.habana.ai" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11782" RevisionGUID="ef611781-de67-4682-bb9c-5dc297b82b7a" CreationDate="2019-08-09T19:50:16.650" UserId="13014" Text="On some batteries you can go up to 10% +, but no -. But this battery is probably not going to work OK.Yor laptop needs 14.4 and you wanr 10.8 as far as I see. So you MBO,processor, RAM and everythin else will have 3.6v in lack of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need to put battery with the same voltage(up to +10% is OK on most of new batteries) and capacity is not important. And size must be the same. I mean you can not put bigger battery in smaller slot. And it need ti be cerificated by laptop manufacter or you can lost warratny and put yourself in risk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40625" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="c58f66e4-e561-40d7-a664-222f236836d0" CreationDate="2019-08-09T21:00:55.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40626" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="46aadac8-1abf-4855-992e-bc1a2c97909c" CreationDate="2019-08-09T22:02:00.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40634" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="fa0796ad-b339-46a7-87f8-93e220c25920" CreationDate="2019-08-10T00:02:00.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40635" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11783" RevisionGUID="7f1e4e1a-9336-4c83-b2a4-29d85d8a72cd" CreationDate="2019-08-10T01:46:35.270" UserId="13053" Text="Redmi K20 Pro would be the best option in your budget right now.&#xD;&#xA;I have given the main specs below.&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Snapdragon 855&#xD;&#xA;Ram: 6-8GB&#xD;&#xA;Storage: 64-128GB&#xD;&#xA;Headphone Jack: Available&#xD;&#xA;USB Type-C: Yes&#xD;&#xA;Battery: 4000 MAh&#xD;&#xA;Pop up Selfie Camera: Yes&#xD;&#xA;Display: No Notch(Full display) running trend&#xD;&#xA;Design: Stylish" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11786" RevisionGUID="3a67cd38-1517-4b84-b4f6-d08ca7a12cc1" CreationDate="2019-08-10T13:55:43.050" UserId="13254" Text="I have an old laptop and I've extracted the LCD monitor (I think model is CLAA154WA03).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now my question is: which adapter is suitable for this monitor? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw there are universal adapters but I don't know if they are compatible with my monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the same time, I think I found the right adapter, but there are no reviews and it costs around 30$...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend a lot on this kit, but if I have to spend 30$ I wanna be sure that it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32999377427.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5fab737ay6Xvzu&amp;algo_pvid=b18270fe-cc51-4382-9d41-e65f18a31482&amp;algo_expid=b18270fe-cc51-4382-9d41-e65f18a31482-1&amp;btsid=c4e35d77-aa19-4829-8691-5bd60daa24af&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_53&quot;&gt;Controller Board LCD HDMI DVI VGA Audio PC Module Driver DIY Kit 15.6&quot; Display B156XW02 1366X768 1ch 6/8-bit 40 Pin Panel&lt;/a&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You think its compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40650" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11786" RevisionGUID="3a67cd38-1517-4b84-b4f6-d08ca7a12cc1" CreationDate="2019-08-10T13:55:43.050" UserId="13254" Text="LCD Controller Kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40651" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11786" RevisionGUID="3a67cd38-1517-4b84-b4f6-d08ca7a12cc1" CreationDate="2019-08-10T13:55:43.050" UserId="13254" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40652" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="f5023e55-4451-414c-897f-eae4513b45ad" CreationDate="2019-08-10T15:01:30.123" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40654" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="9541fdf7-9a43-4af0-92d5-30ff46ae308c" CreationDate="2019-08-10T16:02:40.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40662" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="d52c3dc1-641f-40de-8519-792c9fb319cd" CreationDate="2019-08-10T19:00:50.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40665" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11791" RevisionGUID="cc36b8c0-6ec9-49f7-853a-72b8677d5296" CreationDate="2019-08-10T22:25:36.213" UserId="13258" Text="I am looking for an alternative for the wireless Logitech G502. I have the cable version and love it. But the currently available wireless version is just too expensive at about 149€. The cable version was about 50€ when I bought it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the features I am looking for, sorted by importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. ability to unlock the mouse wheel for seamless scrolling&#xD;&#xA; 2. ability to change the mouse resolution (for faster or slower more accurate mouse movement) on the fly&#xD;&#xA; 3. about the same size and weight as the cabled G502 (~100-150 grams)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40666" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11791" RevisionGUID="cc36b8c0-6ec9-49f7-853a-72b8677d5296" CreationDate="2019-08-10T22:25:36.213" UserId="13258" Text="Wireless alternative to Logitech G502 Mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40667" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11791" RevisionGUID="cc36b8c0-6ec9-49f7-853a-72b8677d5296" CreationDate="2019-08-10T22:25:36.213" UserId="13258" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40668" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="b007f83d-d196-42c4-9034-e7d2fc8746ec" CreationDate="2019-08-11T07:01:35.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40677" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="29567af9-804d-457e-b8f1-cd708c6b2434" CreationDate="2019-08-11T16:03:20.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11795" RevisionGUID="eebf1db8-2cda-4766-b24b-3b495e5d8774" CreationDate="2019-08-11T19:57:53.990" UserId="13264" Text="I have years of experience with aircooled systems and i have build about 10 systems in my life, but now is time to upgrade my own system for first time in 6 years and im going to go all out with water cooling. Yes i'am an enthusiast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that my planed system is not good price to performanse and i have like 60 % more cooling that i should have, but i am just intrested in building the system, i know that one 360mm rad would be optimal for one GPU &amp; CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the system im planing to go for.&#xD;&#xA;I have my 1080 Ti asus turbo from my old system ( found full water block for it )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i9-9900K ( covered by mono block )&#xD;&#xA;Asus 1080 ti Turbo ( full block )&#xD;&#xA;Asus Rog XI extreme ( with EK waterblocks mono block )&#xD;&#xA;2 X XSPC EX480 low profile ( 35.5 mm thick )&#xD;&#xA;Hard tubing ( PETG )&#xD;&#xA;Thermaltake Level 20 XT big cube case.&#xD;&#xA;Some flow meter ( not sure about model yet )&#xD;&#xA;Another GPU in future posibly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bouth radiators will be istalled to the sealing of the case ( top ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used now about tree weeks to absorbing as much information about the water cooling as possible, but im not completely sure what kind of pump power i need, does one D5 pump do the job or do i need more ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originaly i was thinking some alphacool resorvour D5 pump combo by not so sure after i desided to add another rad just for fun basicly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cooling component list currenlty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115511]Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 120mm (NF-F12 IPPC-3000 PWM)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;2 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115494]Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 140mm (NF-A14 PPC 3000 PWM)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115307]Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM, 140mm[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/2040770]EK Water Blocks Quantum Line EK-Momentum ASUS ROG Maximus XI extreme D-RGB Monoblock, nickel, acrylic [/utl]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1492178]Alphacool ice pipe Hardtube PETG pipe, 80cm 13/10mm, clear, 4-pack (18512)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1707054]Alphacool ice cream cup D5 250mm acetal incl. VPP755 (13308)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;2 [url=https://geizhals.eu/697456]XSPC EX480 low profile, black[/url]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could not find any good tags for the post eather. No liquid cooling or something like that.&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for messy post, bad grammas and typos not my native languange.&#xD;&#xA;Best regards,&#xD;&#xA;Visdmin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40681" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11795" RevisionGUID="eebf1db8-2cda-4766-b24b-3b495e5d8774" CreationDate="2019-08-11T19:57:53.990" UserId="13264" Text="&lt;Custom liquid pc cooling&gt; which pump I need for my loop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40682" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11795" RevisionGUID="eebf1db8-2cda-4766-b24b-3b495e5d8774" CreationDate="2019-08-11T19:57:53.990" UserId="13264" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11796" RevisionGUID="71118178-e27e-47ee-ae05-ba29f205f6bb" CreationDate="2019-08-11T19:58:32.420" UserId="10626" Text="The terms you are looking for are ***outlet switching*** and ***outlet metering***. Some PDUs do have this feature; many don't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For instance, Eaton PDUs contain six categories: basic, in-line metered, metered input, metered outlet, switched, and managed, but only the last type has both outlet switching and outlet metering (source: Eaton ePDU G3 operations manual, page 12, [PDF][1]). It shouldn't be a surprise that this type of PDUs is the most expensive. Expect to pay [at least $650 for a PDU with 8 outlets][2] (the link lists all the managed PDUs sold by Eaton). More outlets means more money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of the API, don't expect a clean RESTful API that you can easily use. Instead, you communicate with the PDU either through the administration panel, which looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or through the serial interface (through SSH or Telnet) which makes it possible to execute a bunch of commands (see the same operations manual, pages 82 to 91).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The web interface allows to monitor the PDU, but **doesn't allow to switch the outlets**. However, it does a great job of measuring how much was consumed, in kWh (the counter can be reset). If you have servers with redundant power supply (and if you don't, well, you should), you may be interested to know that there is a way to configure several PDUs and map individual outlets to devices. This means that if a server is connected to two outlets from two different PDUs, you can see a report showing the power consumption *for the whole server*, independently of the physical topology.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another handy feature is the alarms. You can configure the PDU to alert you (and keep a record of the alarms) whenever a given outlet has a current above/below a defined threshold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/backup-power-ups-surge-it-power-distribution/power-distribution-for-it-equipment/eaton-basic-rack-pdu/eaton-pdu-g3-operations-manual-p-164000277.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/backup-power-ups-surge-it-power-distribution/eaton-managed-rack-pdu.models.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cbLc.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wu5r8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11795" RevisionGUID="53324093-3b40-4a75-ad0b-3ff0a09ea325" CreationDate="2019-08-11T20:11:10.070" UserId="13264" Comment="Added product idea ( ek water blocks pump res combo 5.2m headpressure )" Text="I have years of experience with aircooled systems and i have build about 10 systems in my life, but now is time to upgrade my own system for first time in 6 years and im going to go all out with water cooling. Yes i'am an enthusiast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that my planed system is not good price to performanse and i have like 60 % more cooling that i should have, but i am just intrested in building the system, i know that one 360mm rad would be optimal for one GPU &amp; CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the system im planing to go for.&#xD;&#xA;I have my 1080 Ti asus turbo from my old system ( found full water block for it )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i9-9900K ( covered by mono block )&#xD;&#xA;Asus 1080 ti Turbo ( full block )&#xD;&#xA;Asus Rog XI extreme ( with EK waterblocks mono block )&#xD;&#xA;2 X XSPC EX480 low profile ( 35.5 mm thick )&#xD;&#xA;Hard tubing ( PETG )&#xD;&#xA;Thermaltake Level 20 XT big cube case.&#xD;&#xA;Some flow meter ( not sure about model yet )&#xD;&#xA;Another GPU in future posibly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bouth radiators will be istalled to the sealing of the case ( top ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used now about tree weeks to absorbing as much information about the water cooling as possible, but im not completely sure what kind of pump power i need, does one D5 pump do the job or do i need more ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originaly i was thinking some alphacool resorvour D5 pump combo by not so sure after i desided to add another rad just for fun basicly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cooling component list currenlty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115511]Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 120mm (NF-F12 IPPC-3000 PWM)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;2 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115494]Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 140mm (NF-A14 PPC 3000 PWM)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1115307]Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM, 140mm[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/2040770]EK Water Blocks Quantum Line EK-Momentum ASUS ROG Maximus XI extreme D-RGB Monoblock, nickel, acrylic [/utl]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1492178]Alphacool ice pipe Hardtube PETG pipe, 80cm 13/10mm, clear, 4-pack (18512)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;1 [url=https://geizhals.eu/1707054]Alphacool ice cream cup D5 250mm acetal incl. VPP755 (13308)[/url]&#xD;&#xA;2 [url=https://geizhals.eu/697456]XSPC EX480 low profile, black[/url]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(edit1)&#xD;&#xA;Would something like this ( 5.2m head pressure ) be enaf right ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://geizhals.eu/ek-water-blocks-ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-a1332500.html?show_description=1&#xD;&#xA;(/edit1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could not find any good tags for the post eather. No liquid cooling or something like that.&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for messy post, bad grammas and typos not my native languange.&#xD;&#xA;Best regards,&#xD;&#xA;Visdmin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11797" RevisionGUID="8e531f28-c91f-45d1-ae3a-8eb5ca87ca6f" CreationDate="2019-08-12T03:55:07.173" UserId="13264" Text="I have years of experience with GSM GPS trackers.&#xD;&#xA;I work at daily basis with GPS trackers and reception servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are few things that affect the devices you would need.&#xD;&#xA;So place let me know answers to these few questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**First you should decide what kind of protocol you would like to have ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most basic GPS trackers support TCP and UDP, but there is also devices with support for RabbitMQ.&#xD;&#xA;With TCP / UDP you will have to code your own reception server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What is your use case of the devices ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - What are you tracking ? Vehicle like car or do you want to track&#xD;&#xA;   persons ?&#xD;&#xA; - Do you have external power supply, or do you need large internal&#xD;&#xA;   battery ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also lot of different price options depending on the features of devices.&#xD;&#xA;Amount of Digital &amp; analog inputs / outputs, serial ports, CAN support, OBD2 support, external / internal antennas, 1-wire... etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you would like to have reliable actually GOOD devices, for vehicle tracking with great but basic features, that is graphically configurable and supports TCP / UDP with easy to understand protocol i would suggest to go with Teltonikas devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Here is few Teltonika models.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Teltonika FMB010][1]&#xD;&#xA;FMB010 is OBD2 powered devices with out support for OBD2 protocol ( only powered from OBD2 port of the car, very easy to install. ) with accelerometer and bluetooth support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Teltonika FMB920][2]&#xD;&#xA;FMB920 is very basic level wired tracker with accelerometer and bluetooth support ( terminal, and temperature sensors for example. ). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you do not have external power supply for the devices and you want to track your self for example.&#xD;&#xA;[Teltonika TMT250 personal tracker][3]&#xD;&#xA;Small handheld devices with chargeable internal battery ( 800 mAh Li-Ion ).&#xD;&#xA;There is also configurable alarm button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these Teltonika devices support GPS, GLONASS, GALILEO, BEIDOU.&#xD;&#xA;For communication : GSM (2G) Quad-band 850 / 900 / 1800 / 1900 MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you live in USA there is specific devices to be used in side USA that support LTE for example. like [FM36M1][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course there is more simple devices in the market, but these devices are actually what u would use in real life scenarios, and they are good quality with great features.&#xD;&#xA;For example FMB010 supports sending X,Y,X values of the accelerometer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have experience with many different usage scenarios, and devices manufacturer so tell me more about your use case so i can give you specific devices model from great manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for my bad english, and P.S. I'am not connected with Teltonika or with any other GPS devices manufacturer, i just have years of experience using their products.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://teltonika.lt/product/fmb010/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://teltonika.lt/product/fmb920/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://teltonika.lt/product/tmt250/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://GSM/GPRS/4G%20LTE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40693" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11795" RevisionGUID="a3e4f9ee-37d2-488e-971a-0190894ba123" CreationDate="2019-08-12T05:12:46.653" UserId="13264" Comment="Improved formatting and additional information" Text="I have years of experience with aircooled systems and i have build about 10 systems in my life, but now is time to upgrade my own system for first time in 6 years and im going to go all out with water cooling  for first time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes i'am an PC enthusiast, please don't judge me, I just love building stupid systems, but now i would need advice with the water cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I want to know what kind of head pressure i do need with system like this ?&#xD;&#xA;What is the best pump for my loop, may add more GPUs / other components in future.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I know that my planed system is not good price to performanse** and i have like 60 % more cooling that i should have, but i am just intrested in building the system, i know that one 360mm rad would be optimal for one GPU &amp; CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the system im planing to go for.&#xD;&#xA;I have my 1080 Ti asus turbo from my old system ( found full water block for it )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i9-9900K ( covered by mono block )&#xD;&#xA; - Asus 1080 ti Turbo ( full block )&#xD;&#xA; - Asus Rog XI extreme ( with EK waterblocks mono block )&#xD;&#xA; - 2 X XSPC EX480 low profile ( 35.5 mm thick )&#xD;&#xA; - Hard tubing ( PETG )&#xD;&#xA; - Thermaltake Level 20 XT big cube case.&#xD;&#xA; - Some flow meter ( not sure about model yet )&#xD;&#xA; - Another GPU in future posibly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both radiators will be installed to the sealing of the case ( top ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have used now about tree weeks to absorbing as much information about the water cooling as possible, but im not completely sure what kind of pump power i need, does one D5 pump do the job or do i need more ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Originaly i was thinking some alphacool resorvour D5 pump combo by not so sure after i desided to add another rad just for fun basicly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cooling component list currenlty&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 8 X [Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 120mm (NF-F12 IPPC-3000 PWM)][1]&#xD;&#xA; - 2 X [Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM, 140mm (NF-A14 PPC 3000 PWM)][2]&#xD;&#xA; - 1 X [Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM,140mm][3]&#xD;&#xA; - 1 X [EK Water Blocks Quantum Line ASUS ROG Maximus XI extreme Monoblock][4]&#xD;&#xA; - 1 X [Alphacool ice pipe Hardtube PETG pipe][5]&#xD;&#xA; - 1 X [Alphacool ice cream cup D5 250mm acetal incl. VPP755 (13308)][6]&#xD;&#xA;       **( Not sure if this pump will be enough )**&#xD;&#xA; - 2 X [XSPC EX480 low profile, black][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(EDIT)&#xD;&#xA;Would something like **[this][8]** ( 5.2m head pressure ) be enough right ?&#xD;&#xA;(/EDIT)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could not find any good tags for the post eather. No liquid cooling or something like that.&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for messy post, bad grammas and typos not my native languange.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards,&#xD;&#xA;Visdmin&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://geizhals.eu/1115511&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://geizhals.eu/1115494&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://geizhals.eu/1115307&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://geizhals.eu/2040770&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://geizhals.eu/1492178&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://geizhals.eu/1707054&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://geizhals.eu/697456&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://geizhals.eu/ek-water-blocks-ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-a1332500.html?show_description=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40698" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="98b4cb1d-21f5-49f0-a013-11011532ec32" CreationDate="2019-08-12T19:02:35.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40706" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="4d37080c-781a-45c7-822c-00da0745cb07" CreationDate="2019-08-13T07:03:10.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40713" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="4777ccf2-4462-430c-93c1-a3aa956dbd4b" CreationDate="2019-08-13T10:03:05.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40714" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="02e2e7cc-0a3c-4371-a3e0-66b3ef05bbda" CreationDate="2019-08-13T12:02:00.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="dd22b1e1-03c5-4740-a13c-accd6c1e207d" CreationDate="2019-08-13T21:05:48.807" UserId="13281" Text="I have a samsung galaxy tab-&quot;e&quot;.  It is pretty small and light weight.  about 8.5&quot;x5.25&quot;.  I carry the tablet just about everywhere with me but only use it for web browsing and watching videos which I have on an sd card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a replacement I can buy so I can run native linux?  I use mint and debian at home, I don't like the bloat-ware that comes on the samesung tablet.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about getting a small laptop, but then it will be heavy and it will need to boot when I want to use it.  This is inconvenient. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40731" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="dd22b1e1-03c5-4740-a13c-accd6c1e207d" CreationDate="2019-08-13T21:05:48.807" UserId="13281" Text="Looking for a (linux) replacement for my android tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40732" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="dd22b1e1-03c5-4740-a13c-accd6c1e207d" CreationDate="2019-08-13T21:05:48.807" UserId="13281" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40733" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="bb50b072-e89a-45f1-9311-02b14852469b" CreationDate="2019-08-13T23:00:50.087" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11814" RevisionGUID="abfbead2-54a2-4cd9-a99f-9df706a591d4" CreationDate="2019-08-14T07:34:12.150" UserId="13264" Text="I have not find any tablets form the market with Linux pre installed, if we do not count some originally Windows based notebooks ( with touch screen ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you go the knowledge you could try installing for example Ubuntu with Gnome 3 to your current tablet, or buy new tablet and install Linux on that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is many guides in the internet, **but please be careful**, because you may make your devices unbootable if you are not careful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wish to try installing Linux on your Android tablet **please make lot of research** about the subject, i have not tried this by my self, but i know it to be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here is some information about the subject.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.techulator.com/resources/9064-How-install-Ubuntu-Android-OS-mobile-tablet-tutorial.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11815" RevisionGUID="9b99cdb5-1486-43b6-8367-38cd49f683b4" CreationDate="2019-08-14T08:51:54.403" UserId="13286" Text="I use Logitech media server, installed on a NAS, to stream music. I like using my android tablet to control the server. And I would like to always see what track is playing. But I don't like to keep the tablet's screen on in the background for long periods of time, in order to conserve the battery. I could buy another, cheap, tablet and keep it always plugged in to the mains, but I would prefer that it wouldn't have a battery (out of concerns that it might overheat or explode).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, is there a cheap, small device with a screen and wifi, that doesn't have a battery and runs connected to the mains? Something like a mounted wall display, I guess." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40751" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11815" RevisionGUID="9b99cdb5-1486-43b6-8367-38cd49f683b4" CreationDate="2019-08-14T08:51:54.403" UserId="13286" Text="Cheap, small device that has wifi and touchscreen, and can run a browser" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40752" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11815" RevisionGUID="9b99cdb5-1486-43b6-8367-38cd49f683b4" CreationDate="2019-08-14T08:51:54.403" UserId="13286" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11816" RevisionGUID="dec295de-46df-49bb-b607-d7ab846a2afc" CreationDate="2019-08-14T09:03:04.520" UserId="1686" Text="I am trying to spec a rack mountable server to power 5 large screens, each of which will use HDMI to connect to the server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screens will be used in an IT Operations room and will be displaying browser based dashboards via grafana, nagios etc, so the IT technicians can monitor the environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The resolution needs to be good enough to read small text, charts and graphs. There is no strict requirement for 4k , although if possible within the budget, 4k would be great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is between £1000 to £1400 GBP ($1200 to $1650 USD.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server needs to be mounted within a comm's cabinet, if required the form factor can be a tower type and placed on a rack tray.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dimensions can be no greater than;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 18cm High (7 inches) &#xD;&#xA; - 45cm Deep (17.7 inches) &#xD;&#xA; - 50cm Wide (19.6 Inches)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the server would be a Windows server, although *nix will be acceptable if it is right for the task. Additionally although I do enjoy the build it yourself approach, this is for an enterprise environment so ideally it would be as 'out the box as possible', although I do not mind if graphics cards need to be swapped out or display adapters need to be used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For reference I had looked at [Dell Precision 3930][1], with dual [NVIDIA Quadro P400][2] and HDMI display adapters, but it is to large for the comm's rack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/workstations/precision-3930-rack/spd/precision-3930r-workstation/xctopr3930emea&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/PNY-NVIDIA-Express-Professional-Graphic/dp/B06X9YKPNN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11816" RevisionGUID="dec295de-46df-49bb-b607-d7ab846a2afc" CreationDate="2019-08-14T09:03:04.520" UserId="1686" Text="Rack mounted server for x5 HDMI display screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11816" RevisionGUID="dec295de-46df-49bb-b607-d7ab846a2afc" CreationDate="2019-08-14T09:03:04.520" UserId="1686" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40761" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11815" RevisionGUID="663b48df-fcf9-4caa-a699-9a4896cb4e1d" CreationDate="2019-08-14T09:52:28.897" UserId="13286" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40771" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="b2cb1088-0020-4534-9362-4f255d28bab0" CreationDate="2019-08-15T09:01:35.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40775" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="708b6f36-75cc-49a6-b48a-a5810888d72d" CreationDate="2019-08-15T11:00:50.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11821" RevisionGUID="b767be2d-22f4-42e0-a54c-ae35e5471864" CreationDate="2019-08-15T12:24:44.977" UserId="13292" Text="It would be very helpful if you could share this, because I'm trying to convince my boss that my company's budget is not adequate, but I can't find any relevant data anywhere to prove my point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can, please specify if computers are desktop or laptop and the renewal rate of the hardware. The size of the company would also be interesting to know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm grateful for any response." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40778" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11821" RevisionGUID="b767be2d-22f4-42e0-a54c-ae35e5471864" CreationDate="2019-08-15T12:24:44.977" UserId="13292" Text="What is your company's budget for computers used for software development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40779" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11821" RevisionGUID="b767be2d-22f4-42e0-a54c-ae35e5471864" CreationDate="2019-08-15T12:24:44.977" UserId="13292" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40783" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11823" RevisionGUID="3ddb5026-a1ed-495a-b454-6360db798044" CreationDate="2019-08-15T12:37:28.767" UserId="7222" Text="Actually, pricing is one of the least important things to check for a company.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is more important, and what can influence your manager much better, is to write down, what it SAVES when you have faster/better computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example: Assume to compiler a full build takes 30 minutes on a slow computer and 10 minutes on a fast computer. This saves the developer approximately 10 minutes (assuming he cannot do much useful stuff in the mean time). Assuming a salary of 50 dollars/hr, saving ten minutes  saves 50 * (20/60) = 16.67 dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assume you do 10 builds per week, it saves 167 dollar per week. &#xD;&#xA;When the faster computer cost 1000 dollars more, after 1000/167 = 6 weeks, the computer is paid back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The complication is that sometimes it's hard to calculate (what if your manager says you can do something useful in the waiting time? Probably you have context switching time loss etc). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But in general, if the faster computer can saves you considerable time, the salary losses  outweighs the cost of a computer by far.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11824" RevisionGUID="d183ac2a-3b67-465d-9db6-a059f8cd2f5b" CreationDate="2019-08-15T23:23:06.760" UserId="10315" Text="I wonder what's needed to transmit analog TV using a computer.&#xA;&#xA;The requirements would be:&#xA;&#xA; - Using a computer as source. &#xA; - Ability to share the full screen.&#xA;&#xA;Multi-channel transmission would also be nice, maybe using multiple desktops for different channels and multiple virtual audio cards for each channels audio.&#xA;&#xA;Preferably a PCI-E Card one could just connect to an antenna cable but an SDI Graphics Card with some external &quot;converter&quot; would also be an acceptable solution.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;*I've found very little information on this on the web but while working at a computer store I once got my hands on a PCI card I think did just this for hotels*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11824" RevisionGUID="d183ac2a-3b67-465d-9db6-a059f8cd2f5b" CreationDate="2019-08-15T23:23:06.760" UserId="10315" Text="Transmitting analog TV using a computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11824" RevisionGUID="d183ac2a-3b67-465d-9db6-a059f8cd2f5b" CreationDate="2019-08-15T23:23:06.760" UserId="10315" Text="&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="e101f99d-a446-4ed1-a4db-1db0bf2fc680" CreationDate="2019-08-16T05:29:52.603" UserDisplayName="user1691" Comment="spelling edits" Text="I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab-&quot;E&quot;.  It is pretty small and light weight.  about 8.5&quot;x &#xD;&#xA;5.25&quot;.  I carry the tablet just about everywhere with me but only use it for web browsing and watching videos which I have on an SD card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a replacement I can buy so I can run native Linux?  I use mint and Debian at home, I don't like the bloat-ware that comes on the Samsung tablet.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking about getting a small laptop, but then it will be heavy and it will need to boot when I want to use it.  This is inconvenient. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40788" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="e101f99d-a446-4ed1-a4db-1db0bf2fc680" CreationDate="2019-08-16T05:29:52.603" Comment="Proposed by 1691 approved by 57 edit id of 915" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="a3005508-664c-4038-832b-4fd28f8af35b" CreationDate="2019-08-16T05:29:57.987" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections" Text="I need to buy a new battery. The model of the battery is Li-Ion Battery Pack A41-K53. Rating = 14.4v 2600mAh, 37Wh. I searched and found the same model, but voltage and mAh is different. The voltage of the new battery I looked is 10.8 and mAh is 4400. If I bought that battery, would I have a problem? What are other things I should care about?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40790" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="a3005508-664c-4038-832b-4fd28f8af35b" CreationDate="2019-08-16T05:29:57.987" UserId="4495" Comment="grammar corrections" Text="What should I care about when buying a new battery pack for a laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40791" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11781" RevisionGUID="a3005508-664c-4038-832b-4fd28f8af35b" CreationDate="2019-08-16T05:29:57.987" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 57 edit id of 914" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11825" RevisionGUID="b13c6118-1368-4688-89e2-5cae376f96a0" CreationDate="2019-08-16T07:59:07.397" UserId="56" Text="If it has the same model but not the same voltage, it's not good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements to look for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It has to fit in the battery slot. So check the dimensions and the connector.&#xD;&#xA;- It has to be the exact same voltage. While it's technically possible at times to use a differing voltage, you really only want to do this when you're sure what you're doing and can tackle the risk. Considering the only modes of failure with Li-ion batteries (all modern laptop batteries) are flames, smoke and explosions, you really don't want to do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amperage/hour (in mAh) is basically the storage capacity. More mAh is like having a bigger gas tank in your car: when completely filled up it takes longer before you have to recharge. So a 2600 mAh is good, but a 4400 mAh has more capacity. Keep in mind that the *useful* capacity is 0 if it doesn't fit and has the wrong voltage, so those requirements are *much* more important than amperage/hour." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40797" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10122" RevisionGUID="76f12887-d7e9-4aea-8bb5-0b4ec81b8bdc" CreationDate="2019-08-16T11:02:20.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11829" RevisionGUID="8f881f5a-0a8b-464b-b59f-9bd18edf2c0e" CreationDate="2019-08-17T00:04:40.910" UserId="4966" Text="I have a couple of systems that I need to connect to my WiFi that only have access via an Ethernet port.  When looking around I see a ton of cheap WiFi extenders/APs that have built in Ethernet ports, but from what I can see online these can only be configured as WiFi extender (creating a shadow WiFi network) or as an AP (creating a new WiFi network).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am after is something that bridges my WiFi to Ethernet but does not act as an extender or AP.  Does such a thing exist?  Or can things like the *Netgear AC1200 WiFi Range Extender* or *TP-Link RE350 AC1200 Wi-Fi Range Extender* actually be configured as I want?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't tell from looking at the user manuals online, and I don't want to drop $20-$30 just to find out that a device can't do what I want." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40813" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11829" RevisionGUID="8f881f5a-0a8b-464b-b59f-9bd18edf2c0e" CreationDate="2019-08-17T00:04:40.910" UserId="4966" Text="WiFi to Ethernet bridge that is not an extender or AP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40814" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11829" RevisionGUID="8f881f5a-0a8b-464b-b59f-9bd18edf2c0e" CreationDate="2019-08-17T00:04:40.910" UserId="4966" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40823" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="cf62a672-8c34-4298-98f6-a24ed8b440c3" CreationDate="2019-08-17T21:02:05.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40824" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="d81ac689-5d3f-406d-be9c-8845b6e4dac5" CreationDate="2019-08-18T05:00:04.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11833" RevisionGUID="5742bfb2-21d9-4d8c-b691-ff65e02dd3da" CreationDate="2019-08-18T14:27:11.230" UserId="4966" Text="After looking around I discovered that OpenWRT firmware can be set up to do exactly what I want, and that GL.iNet products come pre-installed with OpenWRT. So I am going to try a [GL-AR150][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-ar150/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40836" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="23973e07-a94b-4e6f-a804-9958939a4292" CreationDate="2019-08-18T19:02:05.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11836" RevisionGUID="2190b779-1914-448e-81a5-aa70c2194453" CreationDate="2019-08-19T04:16:24.607" UserId="4569" Text="My current router (ASUS RT-AC658U) I'm quite happy with, however I want to configure it to direct *most* traffic through a VPN. It does support configuring a VPN connection on the router, but in an &quot;all or nothing&quot; manner.  This causes an issue because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Gaming over VPN provides a very poor experience&#xD;&#xA;* Netflix (and certain other services) can detect the VPN (most likely identify the IP belongs to a VPN provider) and block their service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a wireless router matching the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Supports: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 2.5 GHz, and 5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;* 802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;* Guest networks&#xD;&#xA;* Port forwarding&#xD;&#xA;* Generally well reviewed, dependable, no major issues, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**More importantly** (and more distinctly from my current router) **it allows VPN traffic with firewall-like rules.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am more technically inclined (I'm comfortable with command line, terminal, network troubleshooting), although I don't need a build-it-yourself hard-technical solution if there's an easier out-of-the-box solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to spend &lt;$400.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40844" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11836" RevisionGUID="2190b779-1914-448e-81a5-aa70c2194453" CreationDate="2019-08-19T04:16:24.607" UserId="4569" Text="Wireless Router allows VPN routing per host/domain/ip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40845" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11836" RevisionGUID="2190b779-1914-448e-81a5-aa70c2194453" CreationDate="2019-08-19T04:16:24.607" UserId="4569" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="bd93edc0-adf5-4bc4-8fb7-1af842f50288" CreationDate="2019-08-19T10:48:05.103" UserId="1808" Text="First as a remainder, this norm is only available with a ᴜꜱʙ type C connector. And in reality, it’s rather not a unique standard but 3 :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ᴜꜱʙ 3.2 Gen 1 at 5 Gbps (SuperSpeed ᴜꜱʙ which means same characteristics as ᴜꜱʙ 3.1)&#xD;&#xA;* ᴜꜱʙ 3.2 Gen 2 at 10 Gbps (SuperSpeed ᴜꜱʙ 10 Gbps)&#xD;&#xA;* ᴜꜱʙ 3.2 Gen 2×2 at 20 Gbps (SuperSpeed ᴜꜱʙ 20 Gbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, the current standard rules out cables with ᴜꜱʙ type A connectors (the one everyone uses).  &#xD;&#xA;I have the hardware which can use such cable, but with standard subtle differences, I wasn’t able to find the cable I’m wanting… Or at least one longer than 1.5 meter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40847" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="bd93edc0-adf5-4bc4-8fb7-1af842f50288" CreationDate="2019-08-19T10:48:05.103" UserId="1808" Text="Where to buy a ᴜꜱʙ 3.2 Gen 2×2 cable capable of carrying 3 Amps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40848" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="bd93edc0-adf5-4bc4-8fb7-1af842f50288" CreationDate="2019-08-19T10:48:05.103" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40849" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="30ce6f37-dcf0-4e6a-ad41-a77cf2a2008f" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:03:10.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="0dd5da39-c097-4fc8-b911-a8709523aaf1" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:17:08.883" UserId="4495" Comment="strange formatting removed, it probably messes up internal &amp; external search engines" Text="First as a remainder, this norm is only available with a USB type C connector. And in reality, it’s rather not a unique standard but 3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 1 at 5 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB which means same characteristics as ᴜꜱʙ 3.1)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 2 at 10 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB 10 Gbps)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 at 20 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB 20 Gbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, the current standard rules out cables with USB type A connectors (the one everyone uses).  &#xD;&#xA;I have the hardware which can use such cable, but with standard subtle differences, I wasn’t able to find the cable I’m wanting ... Or at least one longer than 1.5 meter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40851" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="0dd5da39-c097-4fc8-b911-a8709523aaf1" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:17:08.883" UserId="4495" Comment="strange formatting removed, it probably messes up internal &amp; external search engines" Text="Where to buy a USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 cable capable of carrying 3 Amps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40852" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="0dd5da39-c097-4fc8-b911-a8709523aaf1" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:17:08.883" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1808 edit id of 916" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40853" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="da4fb748-abf4-4e0f-bd1e-c030d2f12823" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:44:07.183" UserId="1808" Comment="edited title" Text="Where to buy a USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 or Gen 2 cable capable of carrying 3 Amps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40854" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11837" RevisionGUID="e1123965-3dd7-4a1a-9a3d-fa6140b3dd23" CreationDate="2019-08-19T11:54:49.477" UserId="1808" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="First as a remainder, this norm is only available with a USB type C connector. And in reality, it’s rather not a unique standard but 3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 1 at 5 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB which means same characteristics as ᴜꜱʙ 3.1)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 2 at 10 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB 10 Gbps)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 at 20 Gbps (SuperSpeed USB 20 Gbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, the current standard rules out cables with USB type A connectors (the one everyone uses).  &#xD;&#xA;I have the hardware which can use such cable, but with standard subtle differences, I wasn’t able to find the cable I’m wanting ... Or one at least 1.5 meter long." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11824" RevisionGUID="ca3a2b11-c56c-4e37-ae9c-3b66bd2c9a62" CreationDate="2019-08-20T06:26:11.573" UserId="10315" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I wonder what's needed to transmit analog TV using a computer.&#xA;&#xA;The requirements would be:&#xA;&#xA; - Using a computer as source. &#xA; - Ability to share the full screen.&#xA; - Any PAL or NTSC Tuner. &#xA;&#xA;Multi-channel transmission would also be nice, maybe using multiple desktops for different channels and multiple virtual audio cards for each channels audio.&#xA;&#xA;Preferably a PCI-E Card one could just connect to an antenna cable but an SDI Graphics Card with some external &quot;converter&quot; would also be an acceptable solution.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;*I've found very little information on this on the web but while working at a computer store I once got my hands on a PCI card I think did just this for hotels*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40866" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9764" RevisionGUID="0c375d4e-8bce-47cc-b808-9b1b09010886" CreationDate="2019-08-20T10:01:30.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40867" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11841" RevisionGUID="0f9ec80e-d4e0-4665-93dc-5d5023818023" CreationDate="2019-08-20T13:44:41.330" UserDisplayName="user10608" Text="I think what you're looking for is an RF Modulator that works on typical computer video outputs (such as VGA, HDMI, or DisplayPort). I did a little looking and found [some on Amazon][1], so I know that it's possible, though I don't have any experience with any of them to actually recommend one over another. I don't know if it might be easier to find a [HDMI-to-RCA adapter][2] that you then connect to a more &quot;normal&quot; (or at least easier to find) [RCA RF Modulator][3]. (All those links are just for examples; there are plenty of products from plenty of brands and plenty of retailers out there.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that in order to share &quot;the full screen&quot;, you'll need to use a pretty low resolution on the computer, just because NTSC and PAL don't have that many lines of video available compared to what people are used to nowadays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hdmi%20rf%20modulator&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi%20to%20rca&amp;qid=1566308501&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rca%20rf%20modulator&amp;qid=1566308580&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11843" RevisionGUID="3ab65ac9-45e9-4635-bb3a-b3dfbc728713" CreationDate="2019-08-20T14:50:04.407" UserId="13259" Text="Listen, do not fool yourself. Altering the PSU will only add trouble. Why do you need this? Do you just have fun or get what you want? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use WX-DC2412 12V 8A (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/12V-8A-Switching-Power-Supply-Board_60835798044.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.24.42c26dd6lIniLa) or WX-DC2405 12V 4A (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=WX-DC2405&amp;ref=nb_sb_noss)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use this power supply only to power the pump and LED.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also used to get my left ear with my right hand. Now the Chinese are producing many cheap, simple and reliable modules for a variety of purposes.&#xD;&#xA;But if you are interested, you want to understand, you have a hobby - electronics, you want to explore, test and solder for about 3 months - then I wish you good luck&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I myself used the WX-DC2412 - a wonderful module. 8A is good - it is with a margin. This means that at your currents the module radiators will be barely warm." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11825" RevisionGUID="2a36028c-94ff-42de-948e-22d7c6744d83" CreationDate="2019-08-21T06:31:48.973" UserId="10648" Comment="Corrected units, mAh is &quot;amperage-hours&quot;, not &quot;amperage per hour&quot;." Text="If it has the same model but not the same voltage, it's not good enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements to look for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It has to fit in the battery slot. So check the dimensions and the connector.&#xD;&#xA;- It has to be the exact same voltage. While it's technically possible at times to use a differing voltage, you really only want to do this when you're sure what you're doing and can tackle the risk. Considering the only modes of failure with Li-ion batteries (all modern laptop batteries) are flames, smoke and explosions, you really don't want to do that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amperage-hours (in mAh) is basically the storage capacity. More mAh is like having a bigger gas tank in your car: when completely filled up it takes longer before you have to recharge. So a 2600 mAh is good, but a 4400 mAh has more capacity. Keep in mind that the *useful* capacity is 0 if it doesn't fit and has the wrong voltage, so those requirements are *much* more important than the amperage-hour rating." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40886" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11825" RevisionGUID="2a36028c-94ff-42de-948e-22d7c6744d83" CreationDate="2019-08-21T06:31:48.973" Comment="Proposed by 10648 approved by 56 edit id of 917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11848" RevisionGUID="6c044a11-cfb4-4b4e-8c81-f10be4991b68" CreationDate="2019-08-21T09:16:53.233" UserId="13324" Text="I'm looking for a SBC/µC board for an university lab course. The objective of the course is to teach various levels of hardware-related programming, from simple bare-metal ISR in assembler, till complex OS mechanisms in some more high-level language (C, Rust).&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A hardware base with a well structured and possibly not to complex design (no i64; RISC-V would be nice, but also ARM, or even Z80)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Fine-grained documentation of the whole board *without any hidden* parts (that excludes the RasPi)&#xD;&#xA; 1. A good emulator (of the board, not only of the processor) to allow to do a big deal of programming offline&#xD;&#xA; 1. Sufficient memory for an OS (i.e., the most AVR-based systems are knocked out) &#xD;&#xA; 1. JTAG and some video (VGA/DVI/HDMI...) would be nice &#xD;&#xA; 1. Performance is not an issue at all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What systems I should consider?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11848" RevisionGUID="6c044a11-cfb4-4b4e-8c81-f10be4991b68" CreationDate="2019-08-21T09:16:53.233" UserId="13324" Text="SBC for educational purposes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11848" RevisionGUID="6c044a11-cfb4-4b4e-8c81-f10be4991b68" CreationDate="2019-08-21T09:16:53.233" UserId="13324" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40894" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11850" RevisionGUID="371cf140-96d9-4884-a7b0-a37e83494e02" CreationDate="2019-08-21T12:54:03.237" UserId="13326" Text="I have a dell inspiron 5575 laptop, ans the specification sheet of my laptop only mentions M.2 NvMe SSD slot in my laptop, does that mean M.2 SATA SSD wil not work in that slot?? I don't want to replace my HDD with SSD, I only wish to add an internal M.2 SATA SSD in my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;[![dell inspiron 5575 specification sheet][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFv75.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40895" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11850" RevisionGUID="371cf140-96d9-4884-a7b0-a37e83494e02" CreationDate="2019-08-21T12:54:03.237" UserId="13326" Text="Does my laptop support M.2 SATA SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40896" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11850" RevisionGUID="371cf140-96d9-4884-a7b0-a37e83494e02" CreationDate="2019-08-21T12:54:03.237" UserId="13326" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11851" RevisionGUID="c4fbe573-9280-4ad9-955a-d2e5ce8a0041" CreationDate="2019-08-21T13:42:40.130" UserId="13259" Text="1. Use any single-board minicomputer, for example, RaspberryPI, with an LCD screen&#xD;&#xA;2. Use the tablet with the battery removed. The circuit diagram depends on the tablet model and the type of battery. In most cases this works." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40898" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11852" RevisionGUID="bed85c4c-989d-4f71-af51-7ca448b1b447" CreationDate="2019-08-21T14:00:10.097" UserId="13259" Text="M.2 SATA SSD may not work in this slot.&#xD;&#xA;SATA M.2 SSDs and 2.5-inch SATA SSDs - in fact, work with the same characteristics. NVMe M.2 drives work on the PCIe bus, and these are completely different indicators in throughput, they are significantly higher than the SATA bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[laptop support SATA M.2 SSD or NVMe M.2 SSD][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[5575 Inspiron and M.2 Nvme drives][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/does-this-laptop-support-sata-m-2-ssd-or-nvme-m-2-ssd.3057815/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/community/Inspiron/5575-Inspiron-and-M-2-Nvme-drives-anyone-with-experience/td-p/7251618" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11853" RevisionGUID="00e90bbd-5c9a-4a8a-a2f4-aefdfd0da68c" CreationDate="2019-08-21T16:14:21.257" UserId="13329" Text="I am in desperate need of a wireless adapter for Kali Linux. I run Kali Linux version 2019.2 on VirtualBox on a MacBook Air.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations for a wireless adapter I can find (an have it shipped quickly if possible) to do wifi cracking? This is for a school project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11853" RevisionGUID="00e90bbd-5c9a-4a8a-a2f4-aefdfd0da68c" CreationDate="2019-08-21T16:14:21.257" UserId="13329" Text="USB WIreless adapter for Kali Linux VirtualBox" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11853" RevisionGUID="00e90bbd-5c9a-4a8a-a2f4-aefdfd0da68c" CreationDate="2019-08-21T16:14:21.257" UserId="13329" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11854" RevisionGUID="8dfe6d23-4319-4bb4-9c4a-c13bf0a062dd" CreationDate="2019-08-21T18:41:10.140" UserId="11005" Text="I just bought a new drive last few days, which is Seagate ST2000DM008-2FR102, which is a 2TB capacity of 64 Mb Cache. This is my first time I bought from Seagate since WD is out of stock and why not try another mainstream brand. It's known widely that Seagate also one of the successful hard drive manufacturer in this age, until I encounter the following uncertainty;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As usual with my WD drives, be it 2.5' or 3.5', I always check the &#xD;&#xA;**Compress this drive to save disk space**&#xD;&#xA;option at the bottom, to give me more spaces. What surprised me for the first time was, all my folders and files inside this disk are, **apparently missing**  in the Explorer after a shutdown and reboot. But the **volume is consumed**, which means they are there in the disk, but **I can't see it**. Luckily enough before I return the disk to the retail where I bought it, I already have old copies from old drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The technician at the place that I bought the drive told me **never to tick the option again** next time as it will results in the same case (He did format the disk afterward), which I find it unrelated, unreliable answer to convince your customer about the disk. Well, after a few test (copying files and reboot) it seems that it's true, never to compress the disk, but only the folders/files only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone has any explanation about this issue on Seagate HDD or experienced the same case before? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40903" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11854" RevisionGUID="8dfe6d23-4319-4bb4-9c4a-c13bf0a062dd" CreationDate="2019-08-21T18:41:10.140" UserId="11005" Text="Seagate Barracuda (Compute series) Compress Disk Issue" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40904" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11854" RevisionGUID="8dfe6d23-4319-4bb4-9c4a-c13bf0a062dd" CreationDate="2019-08-21T18:41:10.140" UserId="11005" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40906" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="07d59203-ed3e-4b5a-b88c-a77eb0fd7a9c" CreationDate="2019-08-22T02:01:30.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40907" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="80537eb8-1ea7-4e51-b34b-1d902d549404" CreationDate="2019-08-22T04:05:40.617" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40908" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11848" RevisionGUID="f155d4f5-0cfb-4377-aa0f-2e97261baaf0" CreationDate="2019-08-22T06:01:30.320" UserId="13324" Comment="wording" Text="I'm looking for a SBC/µC board for an university lab course. The objective of the course is to teach various levels of hardware-related programming, from simple bare-metal ISR in assembler, till complex OS mechanisms in some more high-level language (C, Rust).&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A hardware base with a well structured and possibly not to complex design (no i64; RISC-V would be nice, but also ARM, or even Z80)&#xD;&#xA; 1. Fine-grained documentation of the whole board *without any hidden* parts (that excludes the RasPi)&#xD;&#xA; 1. A good emulator (of the board, not only of the processor) to allow to do a big deal of programming offline&#xD;&#xA; 1. Sufficient memory for an OS (i.e., the most AVR-based systems are knocked out) &#xD;&#xA; 1. JTAG and some video (VGA/DVI/HDMI...) would be nice &#xD;&#xA; 1. Performance is not an issue at all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What systems should I consider?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40912" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6c44db3b-41a5-4691-9d3f-0e2a28d38fe9" CreationDate="2019-08-22T12:45:47.610" UserId="13333" Text="I am new here so bear with me if I don't know the 'rules'. Also I am still studying (Robotics) but on placement year. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have to test an inertial measurement unit that uses RS 422 communication standard. I will use a Raspberry Pi with a touchscreen that needs the latest Raspbian which is the Debian(buster) that as far as I know uses the Linux kernel 5.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a look at two USB to RS422 converters that say that they are supporting Linux 4.xx and Linux 2.4/2.6 respectively&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.data-converters.com/docs/specs/usb-serial-3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mev.co.uk/pages/Products/USB-Serial-Converters.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My questions are: &#xD;&#xA;Would these converters work together with the newer Linux kernel?&#xD;&#xA;If not could you recommend me a product or simply a good retailer who might have what I am looking for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance for all who take their time to answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40913" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6c44db3b-41a5-4691-9d3f-0e2a28d38fe9" CreationDate="2019-08-22T12:45:47.610" UserId="13333" Text="USB to RS422 opto isolated converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40914" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6c44db3b-41a5-4691-9d3f-0e2a28d38fe9" CreationDate="2019-08-22T12:45:47.610" UserId="13333" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40916" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="ccddf0a3-17e6-455a-866e-b99d6f9f9344" CreationDate="2019-08-22T16:02:30.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40920" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11858" RevisionGUID="2414260a-5475-4efe-a524-921a84018f66" CreationDate="2019-08-22T17:29:09.107" UserId="13336" Text="I think you'd be better of with a RS422 shield for your projects. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An example &#xD;&#xA;https://thepihut.com/products/rs422-rs485-serial-hat?variant=20063170003006" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40921" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="c1771a05-54e9-4f62-802a-751a816aac12" CreationDate="2019-08-22T19:03:20.513" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40922" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="4ed15fa7-c842-405b-aecb-272a25558045" CreationDate="2019-08-22T20:01:30.133" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40923" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="abaa64b1-b2c4-450e-9e51-261afdf62d8b" CreationDate="2019-08-22T22:01:45.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40927" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="34aff0b2-f95e-478a-b14e-441e0b4dc02f" CreationDate="2019-08-23T02:00:55.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11860" RevisionGUID="d4044542-67e9-4989-8086-e5d08fcd9cfe" CreationDate="2019-08-23T07:26:19.317" UserId="9728" Text="I would like to control a **Raspberry Pi 4** with my smartphone (for my drone). Now I'm looking for an interface between the RPi and my Android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Control with a web interface or app &#xD;&#xA; - Range: at least **1 km (0.62 miles)**.&#xD;&#xA; - Data rate: I don't need a high data rate, because I don't want a camera live stream. I only want to send small commands, like forward, backward, ...&#xD;&#xA; - One-time purchase -&gt; No monthly fees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some that I have looked at, but do not meet my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Use a sim card for the RPi:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Websocket connection over a server -&gt; web interface&#xD;&#xA;- Unlimited range&#xD;&#xA;- **Monthly fees**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Use the RPi as Access Point&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Connect the phone with the RPi-Wifi -&gt; web interface&#xD;&#xA;- **I think: to low range**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Connect my phone with a self-built antenna e.g. with RFM95W&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Connect the antenna with USB-C to my phone&#xD;&#xA;- App&#xD;&#xA;- **I must program a driver**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- **To low range**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your Hardware Recommendations!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40933" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11860" RevisionGUID="d4044542-67e9-4989-8086-e5d08fcd9cfe" CreationDate="2019-08-23T07:26:19.317" UserId="9728" Text="Long range interface between a Raspberry Pi and a smartphone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40934" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11860" RevisionGUID="d4044542-67e9-4989-8086-e5d08fcd9cfe" CreationDate="2019-08-23T07:26:19.317" UserId="9728" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40935" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11860" RevisionGUID="b11cc128-4564-4d15-ac47-777432d1cb09" CreationDate="2019-08-23T07:43:20.840" UserId="9728" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="I would like to control a **Raspberry Pi 4** with my smartphone (for my drone). Now I'm looking for an interface between the RPi and my Android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Control with a web interface or app &#xD;&#xA; - Range: at least **1 km (0.62 miles)**.&#xD;&#xA; - Data rate: I don't need a high data rate, because I don't want a camera live stream. I only want to send small commands, like forward, backward, ...&#xD;&#xA; - Fast connection -&gt; max. 0.5 second: Phone -&gt; RPi&#xD;&#xA; - No license (for special frequencies)&#xD;&#xA; - One-time purchase -&gt; No monthly fees&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some that I have looked at, but do not meet my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Use a sim card for the RPi:&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Websocket connection over a server -&gt; web interface&#xD;&#xA;- Unlimited range&#xD;&#xA;- **Monthly fees**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Use the RPi as Access Point&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Connect the phone with the RPi-Wifi -&gt; web interface&#xD;&#xA;- **I think: to low range**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Connect my phone with a self-built antenna e.g. with RFM95W&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- Connect the antenna with USB-C to my phone&#xD;&#xA;- App&#xD;&#xA;- **I must program a driver**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;- **To low range**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your Hardware Recommendations!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40943" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11863" RevisionGUID="6ee8c037-640f-43ad-bcb2-d5e1c9a61e24" CreationDate="2019-08-23T11:53:56.397" UserId="9728" Text="**Question moved to [raspberrypi.stackexchange.com][1]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Visit [raspberrypi.stackexchange.com][1] for the solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/101860/long-range-interface-between-a-raspberry-pi-and-a-smartphone/101866#101866" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40944" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11864" RevisionGUID="ebe4add0-5c92-40db-8150-db94d6d030bc" CreationDate="2019-08-23T12:28:54.600" UserId="7612" Text="I'm assigned the task to help describing the minimum requirements for hardware used by a Java programming team at my institution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This team is developing a system that uses about 7 GB RAM when loaded in IDE with one Jboss (yes, Jboss...) instance running. Also, most of them are using Windows 10 OS. This system does not use any machine learning or design tool, meaning that GPUs aren't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main doubt is related to CPU, since I'm not sure if Java EE compiler can be really affected by frequency or number of cores (I don't think so). The only needs I'm sure are Support for virtualization and support for Dual Channel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, regarding the Disk, I'm not sure if a SSD is something necessary at this point, since the class files are loaded in RAM (Database is hosted on a server).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, so far I have the minimum RAM requirement at about 12 GB and no need for GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, to summarize: A Server class (Intel Xeon, for example) or a Many core (12+) CPU will make any difference in this case? Also, is there any important technology that I'm missing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: I'm looking for desktops and since it's enterprise environment, closed box first line equipment are the choice, so keep in mind that only things shipped by HP, Dell or Lenovo are considered." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40945" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11864" RevisionGUID="ebe4add0-5c92-40db-8150-db94d6d030bc" CreationDate="2019-08-23T12:28:54.600" UserId="7612" Text="Hardware specs to optimize Java Programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40946" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11864" RevisionGUID="ebe4add0-5c92-40db-8150-db94d6d030bc" CreationDate="2019-08-23T12:28:54.600" UserId="7612" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40947" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="fc741fbd-5b31-463c-8d16-62bbe7172435" CreationDate="2019-08-23T20:03:05.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11865" RevisionGUID="b01580d4-6fdb-4d7b-9884-ec06a6a2b3ba" CreationDate="2019-08-23T20:49:44.837" UserId="7203" Text="[![earbuds][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I love the one on the right in this image, the speaker is quite large and it sounds great. I've had these earbuds for years but they're starting to fall apart on me, so I'm looking to replace them. However, I can't seem to find any of the same style. I absolutely *despise* the &quot;ergonomic&quot; earbuds that go deep into your ear, I simply want earbuds with large speakers that rest outside your ear. Also, the audio quality needs to be decently good, and it needs to be a 3.5mm headphone jack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9YqV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11865" RevisionGUID="b01580d4-6fdb-4d7b-9884-ec06a6a2b3ba" CreationDate="2019-08-23T20:49:44.837" UserId="7203" Text="Looking for a good set of earbuds similar to these ones with large speakers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11865" RevisionGUID="b01580d4-6fdb-4d7b-9884-ec06a6a2b3ba" CreationDate="2019-08-23T20:49:44.837" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="ff5e5afb-8291-41e7-b5e8-9b54cb453ba7" CreationDate="2019-08-24T04:28:39.813" UserId="11232" Text="I'm planning to build a PC for personal use. I'm studying Swarm Robotics, Machine Learning (for robotics), and Cybersecurity (mainly hacking and pentesting).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've read online, there's not much specific needs for the robotics area but good GPU is needed for Machine Learning and 1TB of SSD is needed for running VMs for Cybersecurity. Since I'm also learning to use CUDA programming, I'll be using an NVIDIA graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC should include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- run dual booting with both Ubuntu (main) and Windows 10 (for MS Office, some circuit design &amp; CAD software)&#xD;&#xA;- a **main** SSD for fast processing and storage&#xD;&#xA;- 1+ extra HDDs with 1TB+ storage for data (I've read that it's hard to use Linux software on external drives)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM (not yet decided)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: Geforce 10 series (for CUDA, machine learning, simulations)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like specifications and recommendations for the SSD, HDD, RAM &amp; GPU for my needs. Please also add if I need some other hardware not yet specified for Machine Learning or Cybersecurity (for example, I'm not sure if I should yet special network cards or the like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to optimize my PC for Machine Learning (with robotics), simulations, and Cybersecurity (mainly pentesting) with *minimal future upgrade/change to the system* in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget: 1500-2000 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="ff5e5afb-8291-41e7-b5e8-9b54cb453ba7" CreationDate="2019-08-24T04:28:39.813" UserId="11232" Text="PC build for Robotics, Miachine Learning and CyberSecurity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="ff5e5afb-8291-41e7-b5e8-9b54cb453ba7" CreationDate="2019-08-24T04:28:39.813" UserId="11232" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40960" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="b867dee5-4a06-43f7-a85d-b321d429c194" CreationDate="2019-08-24T07:15:40.093" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting, fixed grammar." Text="mandatory:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. full-sized SD card does not stick out of card readers' case&#xD;&#xA; 2.  detachable cable (connected to card reader via micro-USB A or USC C, mini-USB B may also be acceptable)&#xD;&#xA; 3. matte case without glossy parts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;preferable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. black color (or other dark color)&#xD;&#xA; 2. sturdy case (metal or hard plastic)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does not matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. price&#xD;&#xA; 2. brand&#xD;&#xA; 3. whether any extra functions make it bigger (unless it is bigger than 230W power brick from gaming notebook) **EDIT: now want it to be smaller than Sony MRWE90/BC1 XQD**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for example, HDD enclosures listed below would fit the bill if they would accept SD cards instead of (or in addition to) 2.5&quot; drives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/inateck-fe2004-usb-3-0-hdd-external-enclosure.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.inateck.com/hard-drive-accessories/hdd-enclosures/tool-free-usb-3-0-hdd-enclosure/inateck-usb-3-0-2-5-portable-hdd-enclosure-3port-usb-3-0-hub.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;any suggestions for where to look for it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40961" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="b867dee5-4a06-43f7-a85d-b321d429c194" CreationDate="2019-08-24T07:15:40.093" Comment="Proposed by 1804 approved by 9030 edit id of 919" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11867" RevisionGUID="24a06568-ee88-4a79-ae69-b86451fe2658" CreationDate="2019-08-24T07:56:49.763" UserId="1410" Text="My car's cigarette lighter is situated so that any devices I put into it protrude and brush my hand when I change gear, which is very annoying (and potentially dangerous).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something, possibly right angled not protruding too much, ideally something that just fits into the lighter and does not stick out, extruding only a wire connected to another female lighter adapter.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40963" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11867" RevisionGUID="24a06568-ee88-4a79-ae69-b86451fe2658" CreationDate="2019-08-24T07:56:49.763" UserId="1410" Text="Right angled car cigarette lighter adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40964" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11867" RevisionGUID="24a06568-ee88-4a79-ae69-b86451fe2658" CreationDate="2019-08-24T07:56:49.763" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="cf642fd1-324e-483b-bb99-e12c225acc85" CreationDate="2019-08-24T12:45:42.620" UserId="11232" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="I'm planning to build a PC for personal use. I'm studying Swarm Robotics, Machine Learning (for robotics), and Cybersecurity (mainly hacking and pentesting).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've read online, there's not much specific needs for the robotics area but good GPU is needed for Machine Learning and 1TB of SSD is needed for running VMs for Cybersecurity. Since I'm also learning to use CUDA programming, I'll be using an NVIDIA graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC should include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- run &quot;dual&quot; booting with Ubuntu (for ROS &amp; robotics), Kali (for cybersecurity) and Windows 10 (for MS Office, some circuit design &amp; CAD software)&#xD;&#xA;- a **main** SSD for fast processing and storage&#xD;&#xA;- 1+ extra HDDs with 1TB+ storage for data (I've read that it's hard to use Linux software on external drives)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM (not yet decided)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: Geforce 10 series (for CUDA, machine learning, simulations)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like specifications and recommendations for the SSD, HDD, RAM &amp; GPU for my needs. Please also add if I need some other hardware not yet specified for Machine Learning or Cybersecurity (for example, I'm not sure if I should yet special network cards or the like).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to optimize my PC for Machine Learning (with robotics), simulations, and Cybersecurity (mainly pentesting) with *minimal future upgrade/change to the system* in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget: 1500-2000 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40969" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="3d6f1246-4f69-4d2f-adbc-27fa629a23d4" CreationDate="2019-08-24T16:00:45.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40982" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="aaa8d74c-7b38-476c-82da-99c3babd5da7" CreationDate="2019-08-25T14:52:29.900" UserId="9420" Comment="typo in title" Text="PC build for Robotics, Machine Learning and CyberSecurity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40983" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="aaa8d74c-7b38-476c-82da-99c3babd5da7" CreationDate="2019-08-25T14:52:29.900" Comment="Proposed by 9420 approved by 11232 edit id of 920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40984" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="26c3aa37-4ded-4b9f-b96e-b70b96d41324" CreationDate="2019-08-25T16:02:10.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40985" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="3236ff94-3fb5-4bc4-b295-60a686ec7340" CreationDate="2019-08-25T17:00:50.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40989" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="b9d3e0c9-b649-49ac-98b5-a76c4728158c" CreationDate="2019-08-25T20:02:25.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40990" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="b4807287-ca27-4d6e-8127-3765fbe6e8be" CreationDate="2019-08-26T02:02:55.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="40991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11873" RevisionGUID="07040295-17c0-4c39-88c7-e129fa433cbf" CreationDate="2019-08-26T02:37:20.153" UserId="13363" Text="i want advice from you , which better between GTX770 2GB &amp; GTX960 2GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know GTX770 performs better , in benchmarks because have 256 bits, and the GTX960 have 128bits , but the gtx 960 is newer and support DX12 and i think is better for 4k videos , im not gamer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But which better for photoshop &amp; lightroom ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My config:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU i7 3770K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus P8Z77 PRO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung SSD 256GB for system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;monitor LG 27UL550-W (4K Support with HDR10)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm on windows 7 64bit but i can switch To win10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thnx for help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40992" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11873" RevisionGUID="07040295-17c0-4c39-88c7-e129fa433cbf" CreationDate="2019-08-26T02:37:20.153" UserId="13363" Text="GTX770 Vs GTX960 for lightroom and photoshop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40993" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11873" RevisionGUID="07040295-17c0-4c39-88c7-e129fa433cbf" CreationDate="2019-08-26T02:37:20.153" UserId="13363" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40996" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="a1c9e46d-f708-402d-b08c-6a8c187ef64c" CreationDate="2019-08-26T03:56:03.273" UserId="11232" Comment="added 15 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I'm planning to build a PC for personal use. I'm studying Swarm Robotics, Machine Learning (for robotics), and Cybersecurity (mainly hacking and pentesting).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From what I've read online, there's not much specific needs for the robotics area but good GPU is needed for Machine Learning and 1TB of SSD is needed for running VMs for Cybersecurity. Since I'm also learning to use CUDA programming, I'll be using an NVIDIA graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My PC should include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- run &quot;dual&quot; booting with Ubuntu (for ROS &amp; robotics), Kali (for cybersecurity) and Windows 10 (for MS Office, some circuit design &amp; CAD software)&#xD;&#xA;- a **main** SSD for fast processing and storage&#xD;&#xA;- 1+ extra HDDs with 1TB+ storage for data (I've read that it's hard to use Linux software on external drives)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM (not yet decided)&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: Geforce 10 series (for CUDA, machine learning, simulations)&#xD;&#xA;- A network/wireless card compatible with Kali tools (preferably with Bluetooth and/or BLE)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like specifications and recommendations for the SSD, HDD, RAM &amp; GPU for my needs. Please also add if I need some other hardware not yet specified for Machine Learning or Cybersecurity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to optimize my PC for Machine Learning (with robotics), simulations, and Cybersecurity (mainly pentesting) with *minimal future upgrade/change to the system* in mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget: 1500-2000 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="40997" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="a1c9e46d-f708-402d-b08c-6a8c187ef64c" CreationDate="2019-08-26T03:56:03.273" UserId="11232" Comment="added 15 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="5b687ff3-e63a-4b53-9592-1c6b616c7c77" CreationDate="2019-08-26T12:16:24.843" UserId="13368" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI device like a tv-box, HDMI PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41007" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="5b687ff3-e63a-4b53-9592-1c6b616c7c77" CreationDate="2019-08-26T12:16:24.843" UserId="13368" Text="HDMI PC to USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41008" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="5b687ff3-e63a-4b53-9592-1c6b616c7c77" CreationDate="2019-08-26T12:16:24.843" UserId="13368" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11879" RevisionGUID="5cf03080-14bc-4bbd-8cb9-238dce14fc67" CreationDate="2019-08-26T15:21:54.027" UserId="1686" Text="So after looking extensively for a single host that would meet these requirements, it does appear as the size restrictions cannot not be met without breaking the budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I did find an ideal solution; x3 micro-form-factor [Dell OptiPlex 3060][1]'s. Each supports 2 monitors/4k screens via HDMI and DisplayPort outputs. I used DP/HDMI adapters to support up to 6 screens total. (although I only need 5.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also fit on a 1U shelf perfectly (2 will sit side by side on a shelf.)&#xD;&#xA;As for the budget they came in well under £900 meaning they where over £300 under budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/desktop-and-all-in-one-pcs/optiplex-3060-micro-desktop/spd/optiplex-3060-micro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41021" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6d7a42c2-d956-4cff-bbf0-c8957a341e81" CreationDate="2019-08-26T18:53:40.550" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting, fixed grammar." Text="I have to test an inertial measurement unit that uses RS-422 communication standard. I will use a Raspberry Pi with a touchscreen that needs the latest Raspbian, which is the Debian(buster), that as far as I know uses the Linux kernel 5.2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had a look at two USB to RS-422 converters that say that they are supporting Linux 4.xx and Linux 2.4/2.6 respectively.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.data-converters.com/docs/specs/usb-serial-3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;https://www.mev.co.uk/pages/Products/USB-Serial-Converters.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My questions are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Would these converters work together with the newer Linux kernel?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If not could you recommend me a product or simply a good retailer&#xD;&#xA;    who might have what I am looking for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41022" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6d7a42c2-d956-4cff-bbf0-c8957a341e81" CreationDate="2019-08-26T18:53:40.550" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting, fixed grammar." Text="USB to RS-422 opto isolated converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41023" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6d7a42c2-d956-4cff-bbf0-c8957a341e81" CreationDate="2019-08-26T18:53:40.550" UserId="1804" Comment="improved formatting, fixed grammar." Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41024" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="6d7a42c2-d956-4cff-bbf0-c8957a341e81" CreationDate="2019-08-26T18:53:40.550" Comment="Proposed by 1804 approved by 60 edit id of 918" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41031" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="f5334b65-1459-4181-9270-8c1594bee54e" CreationDate="2019-08-27T02:00:55.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41042" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="12feec9d-c27c-42e9-9471-a748b9ea9d1f" CreationDate="2019-08-27T08:03:00.450" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41049" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="d0122661-07a6-4ed6-8dee-1641d729d9bc" CreationDate="2019-08-27T10:01:35.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11888" RevisionGUID="c953288e-7369-42e0-8b66-c49de965e34b" CreationDate="2019-08-27T11:27:45.867" UserId="13379" Text="I am looking at doing a small build for a project, however before buying all the hardware I just wanted to know if what I'm attempting is even possible? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at using the Banana Pi M2+ to run Android Oreo with a TFT Touchscreen (Made for Raspberry Pi). The main concerns I have are these: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Will the Banana Pi M2+ be able to run the latest version of Android? (I found the min reqs. and it seems to meet them) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Will I be able to install drivers for Android to recognise the Pi Touchscreen? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Paddy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11888" RevisionGUID="c953288e-7369-42e0-8b66-c49de965e34b" CreationDate="2019-08-27T11:27:45.867" UserId="13379" Text="Banana Pi + Android + Touchscreen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11888" RevisionGUID="c953288e-7369-42e0-8b66-c49de965e34b" CreationDate="2019-08-27T11:27:45.867" UserId="13379" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41070" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11895" RevisionGUID="6f2fd881-1973-426d-8803-516ce065d2ad" CreationDate="2019-08-28T21:07:01.097" UserId="10648" Text="*&quot;This is 2019.&quot;* Yes, but [new video connectors don't always make things simpler.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question seriously, the thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) connection uses a DisplayPort signal for video. Unfortunately HDMI to DisplayPort (in that direction) is not compatible with just a simple wire-to-wire converter. You actually need something known as an &quot;Active HDMI to Displayport Adapter&quot;, and obviously the displayport side needs to be the USB-C connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also fairly certain that the USB-C monitors get their power from the USB-C connection, so that adapter might have to supply power too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never seen an adapter that meets all of those requirements so I cannot recommend one for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://xkcd.com/927/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41076" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2279" RevisionGUID="b1768c2a-35ae-42c1-89ce-22b79eab3be1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T08:02:50.473" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41077" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="0d7ea569-e96d-4ed7-a9c0-0891d1563bf1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T08:49:10.280" UserId="13368" Comment="added DP port" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41078" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="0d7ea569-e96d-4ed7-a9c0-0891d1563bf1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T08:49:10.280" UserId="13368" Comment="added DP port" Text="HDMI/DP PC to USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41087" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="c36a9a7a-6bf8-48f1-b2df-e314dc0477df" CreationDate="2019-08-29T14:02:30.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41094" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="e9621681-b9ba-4fd0-8578-ce34a1c260c7" CreationDate="2019-08-29T16:02:05.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11895" RevisionGUID="d2baf58d-defa-4648-9e2f-db9ca0e71a25" CreationDate="2019-08-29T16:06:24.507" UserId="10648" Comment="added 591 characters in body" Text="*&quot;This is 2019.&quot;* Yes, but [new video connectors don't always make things simpler.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question seriously, the thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) connection uses a DisplayPort signal for video. Unfortunately HDMI to DisplayPort (in that direction) is not compatible with just a simple wire-to-wire converter. You actually need something known as an &quot;Active HDMI to Displayport Adapter&quot;, and obviously the displayport side needs to be the USB-C connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also fairly certain that the USB-C monitors get their power from the USB-C connection, so that adapter might have to supply power too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never seen an adapter that meets all of those requirements so I cannot recommend one for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be possible to combine two adapters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. HDMI -&gt; DisplayPort  &#xD;&#xA;This one must be active, so requires its own power usually from USB.&#xD;&#xA;2. DisplayPort -&gt; USB-C  &#xD;&#xA;This one may be VERY hard to find in this direction but theoretically possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It turns out that I entirely missed that USB-C (and thunderbolt 3) can output HDMI signals too. That implies that USB-C displays (but not necessarily ones that *require* Thunderbolt 3) can accept HDMI signals through that connector. This raises some hope that there is a passive HDMI to USB-C cable/adapter out there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://xkcd.com/927/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11903" RevisionGUID="504533a7-d255-498c-890a-3e405d3d68b1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T18:54:12.680" UserId="13399" Text="I recently did a little research on several different industrial embedded computers for a project that I am working on.  It turns out that a lot of these industrial fan less PCs can be purchased with the Intel 4th Generation Intel® Core™ i5 Processors, which had a launch date in 2013.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since these are new industrial PCs, does this mean that even though Intel is marketing 8th, 9th, 10th and so on processor, they are still manufacturing and supporting the older generation of processors?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or does this mean that at some point in time, that specific company (Advantech) bought an over abundance of these processor and now they are continuing to sell these industrial PCs until they run out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does this mean that they are selling Intel processor that are past the life cycle and a different hardware industrial PC should be selected?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11903" RevisionGUID="504533a7-d255-498c-890a-3e405d3d68b1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T18:54:12.680" UserId="13399" Text="Does Intel manufacture older generations of Intel Core processors?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11903" RevisionGUID="504533a7-d255-498c-890a-3e405d3d68b1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T18:54:12.680" UserId="13399" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;processor-architecture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41106" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11904" RevisionGUID="fc9fddda-da76-4eb2-b2d7-25a7e1423b03" CreationDate="2019-08-29T20:24:31.980" UserId="10648" Text="Intel does announces the end-of-life for their CPUs, you can check the status of a specific CPU model on [their website][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [are they] still manufacturing and supporting the older generation of processors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is possible that a few specific CPU models are still being manufactured at the request of a significant customer or for providing long-term support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; does this mean that at some point in time, that specific company (Advantech) bought an over abundance of these processor and now they are continuing to sell these industrial PCs until they run out?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is a valid explanation if you see that it is &quot;Discontinued&quot; on the website; Most socketed CPUs from the 4th generation are, and the ones that still say &quot;Launched&quot; are almost entirely CPUs that would never have been sold in a retail box or stand-alone. (They are mobile CPUs to be installed by an OEM.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Does this mean that they are selling Intel processor that are past the life cycle and a different hardware industrial PC should be selected?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would look for newer hardware anyways, especially for a fanless system since the newer generation chips use less power to provide the same (or better) performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/series/75024/4th-generation-intel-core-i5-processors.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41113" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11906" RevisionGUID="b8c3c67b-cf6f-45c9-96be-56e582724189" CreationDate="2019-08-29T21:49:42.653" UserId="10648" Text="The GTX 770 loses to the 960 in a lot of ways other than performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It requires much more power than the GTX 960. (600W vs 450W)&#xD;&#xA;2. No HDR support, and no HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;3. Models with 4GB VRAM are hard to come by.&#xD;&#xA;4. Older video codec support &amp; slower on-board encoding chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend buying a *6 year old* GPU unless it was super *cheap*.&#xD;&#xA;Even the 960 is starting to become hard to recommend itself if you compare it to the current generation, like a 1050 ti." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11906" RevisionGUID="b6d3739e-ee74-4719-8af6-6178fbb94fdf" CreationDate="2019-08-29T21:57:17.477" UserId="10648" Comment="added 97 characters in body" Text="The GTX 770 will be faster for video encoding and *most* GPU-accelerated applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It loses to the 960 in a lot of ways other than performance though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It requires much more power than the GTX 960. (600W vs 450W)&#xD;&#xA;2. No HDR support, and no HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;3. Models with 4GB VRAM are hard to come by.&#xD;&#xA;4. Older video codec support &amp; slower on-board encoding chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend buying a *6 year old* GPU unless it was super *cheap*.&#xD;&#xA;Even the 960 is starting to become hard to recommend itself if you compare it to the current generation, like a 1050 ti." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41121" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="40c406fd-d57d-4e4d-8001-270e5b772689" CreationDate="2019-08-30T03:03:40.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41122" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="464ead38-0c25-40ff-bab8-a422b4f0a19b" CreationDate="2019-08-30T04:05:30.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41128" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="e641bf92-ec26-4f5a-93b5-4f558351a291" CreationDate="2019-08-30T12:02:25.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41150" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="31757512-9029-431c-a271-f83fc39bea30" CreationDate="2019-08-30T22:00:42.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41160" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="f3c335a5-3d3b-4975-a8a0-0e14970346e1" CreationDate="2019-08-31T13:01:00.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11915" RevisionGUID="463f83e7-7a9b-4d32-899d-762eb01a6577" CreationDate="2019-08-31T13:39:26.047" UserId="13418" Text="I need a disk array like those which we can just add a new hard disk but using sd cards rather than disk. Does it exist?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/HP_EVA4400-1.jpg/440px-HP_EVA4400-1.jpg (something like this but with sd cards or micro sd cards)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41162" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11915" RevisionGUID="463f83e7-7a9b-4d32-899d-762eb01a6577" CreationDate="2019-08-31T13:39:26.047" UserId="13418" Text="Does exist a SD card disk array?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41163" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11915" RevisionGUID="463f83e7-7a9b-4d32-899d-762eb01a6577" CreationDate="2019-08-31T13:39:26.047" UserId="13418" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11917" RevisionGUID="e9e28837-6cc4-41a2-8743-539526a8a1e2" CreationDate="2019-08-31T16:51:33.687" UserId="1203" Text="I have a very tight budget and I need a Linux Laptop for personal use on which to do basic computing tasks, as well as write code.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need, at a minimum:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 64 GB HD&#xD;&#xA;- 15 or 14 inch screen, 1080p would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;- other basic stuff (headphone jack etc...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;New is preferable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Linux is required - and that's what's making this hard. [On EBay, I see lots of laptops in the $200 range][1], but looking at each one requires looking up its Linux compatibility, and since they're used, you don't really know what you're getting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What recommendations can you give me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/b/4-GB-RAM-PC-Laptops-Netbooks/177/bn_7114668525?rt=nc&amp;LH_AS=1&amp;_udhi=350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11917" RevisionGUID="e9e28837-6cc4-41a2-8743-539526a8a1e2" CreationDate="2019-08-31T16:51:33.687" UserId="1203" Text="Laptop for Linux and I have a tight budget" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11917" RevisionGUID="e9e28837-6cc4-41a2-8743-539526a8a1e2" CreationDate="2019-08-31T16:51:33.687" UserId="1203" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11918" RevisionGUID="82389f9f-4927-4077-a4fb-916c66cf8f20" CreationDate="2019-08-31T16:51:33.687" UserId="1203" Text="[The PineBook 64 Pro is available for preordered delivery in October, is listed for $199 and has these features:][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - CPU: 64-Bit Dual-Core ARM 1.8GHz Cortex A72 and Quad-Core ARM 1.4GHz    Cortex A53&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - GPU: Quad-Core MALI T-860&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - RAM: 4 GB LPDDR4 Dual Channel System DRAM Memory&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Flash: 64 GB eMMC 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Wireless: WiFi 802.11AC + Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - One USB 3.0 and one USB 2.0 Type-A Host Ports&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - USB 3.0 Type-C ports with alt-mode display out (DP 1.2) and 15W 5V 3A    charge.&#xD;&#xA;&gt;   &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - MicroSD Card Slot: 1&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Headphone Jack: 1&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Microphone: Built-in&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Keyboard: Full Size ISO type Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Touch-pad: Large Multi-Touch Touchpad&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Power: Input: 100~240V, Output: 5V3A&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Battery: Lithium Polymer Battery (10000mAH)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Display: 14.1″ IPS LCD (1920 x 1080)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Front Camera: 2.0 Megapixels&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Power Supply included&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Dimension: 329mm x 220mm x 12mm (WxDxH)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Weight: 1.26 kg (2.78 lbs)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;    &#xD;&#xA;&gt;  - Warranty: 30 days&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is on preorder for October 2019. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Caveats: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are asserting that they are making this laptop available at this price as a service to the Linux community and that there are no margins for them in this product at this price point. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also assert that if you would return it for having a few dead pixels, this is not the sort of laptop for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Disclaimer - I am in no way associated with Pine64. I just pay attention to developments in the laptop market, and this has really stuck out to me as of late as a really exciting development. I would also at least really like for them to cover their fixed costs on this, so I don't mind at all telling people about them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.pine64.org/?product=14%E2%80%B3-pinebook-pro-linux-laptop-64gb-emmc-iso-keyboard-estimated-dispatch-in-october-2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41175" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11920" RevisionGUID="a1b3d993-ccf2-4d2a-9cf1-69b942a4d42c" CreationDate="2019-08-31T18:57:00.130" UserId="13259" Text="Dell Latitude E-6410&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=e-6410&amp;_sacat=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the E-6410 myself. A wonderful, durable, very convenient laptop for almost any Linux distribution. Keyboard backlight, matte display, titanium case - what else is needed? A corporate series laptop, so choose with a webcam (it is not installed on all laptops of this model). All devices are installed automatically, there are no problems with the drivers. I have been using such a laptop for many years (Ubuntu xfce) and do not regret it for a second. You can choose with a reinforced battery, you can choose with a reinforced battery with indication of discharge. In short, I am satisfied and advised and bought this particular model to many of my friends. The doctor and lawyer even transplanted to Linux on this laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41176" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11920" RevisionGUID="069bd71f-a874-4c2c-8a54-b70db8fb0354" CreationDate="2019-08-31T19:03:20.777" UserId="13259" Comment="added 155 characters in body" Text="Dell Latitude E-6410&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=e-6410&amp;_sacat=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the E-6410 myself. A wonderful, durable, very convenient laptop for almost any Linux distribution. Keyboard backlight, matte display, titanium case - what else is needed? A corporate series laptop, so choose with a webcam (it is not installed on all laptops of this model). All devices are installed automatically, there are no problems with the drivers. I have been using such a laptop for many years (Ubuntu xfce) and do not regret it for a second. You can choose with a reinforced battery, you can choose with a reinforced battery with indication of discharge. In short, I am satisfied and advised and bought this particular model to many of my friends. The doctor and lawyer even transplanted to Linux on this laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Microsoft Visual Studio Code, RubyMine. Installed ansible and puppet. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But in principle, anyone who has no problems with drivers for Linux will do. Whose Wifi, web-cam and bluetooth (if there is) works right &quot;from the box&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41181" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11922" RevisionGUID="75a3c9da-045c-48dc-abce-2b1e59d70bfa" CreationDate="2019-09-01T04:39:02.613" UserId="13421" Text="You could buy a [4-port SD card hub][1] for ~US$63. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you could easily make your own: [SD card readers][2] are available for less than $US2, and a [4-port USB hub][3] for ~US$6, so you could assemble a similar 4-SD card hub for &lt;$US15. Just add hubs and readers as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**N.B.** Flash memory is much slower than SDD or HDD, and more expensive than HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-Workflow-Four-Bay-LRWHR1RBNA/dp/B00EJ8CKRU/ref=sr_1_3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Collection-support-SanDisk-Kingston-Extreme/dp/B01FFY5640/ref=sr_1_11&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-4-Port-Ultra-Splitter-Expansion/dp/B07PDBNVGN/ref=sr_1_4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41187" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11922" RevisionGUID="68939d3b-d929-418b-93fb-bd8bfbd65793" CreationDate="2019-09-01T18:28:17.573" UserId="13421" Comment="added 512 characters in body" Text="You could buy a [4-port SD card hub][1] for ~US$63. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you could easily make your own: [SD card readers][2] are available for less than $US2, and a [4-port USB hub][3] for ~US$6, so you could assemble a similar 4-SD card hub for &lt;$US15. Just add hubs and readers as needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You don't state your purpose, so it's hard to understand what you need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* If you're trying to make copies of SD cards, e.g. as OS for a batch o microprocessors, there are [SD drive duplicators][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* If you're trying to simulate a &quot;drive carousel&quot; or [CD/DVD array][5], be aware that flash memory is much slower than SDD or HDD, and more expensive than HDD. A large HDD could be partitioned into a virtual array of disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-Workflow-Four-Bay-LRWHR1RBNA/dp/B00EJ8CKRU/ref=sr_1_3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Collection-support-SanDisk-Kingston-Extreme/dp/B01FFY5640/ref=sr_1_11&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-4-Port-Ultra-Splitter-Expansion/dp/B07PDBNVGN/ref=sr_1_4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/slp/sd-card-duplicator/y4dqz8gwsbgc4gn&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-CDPCX455-MegaStorage-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000069JWX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41188" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11915" RevisionGUID="d2fdd230-266c-4b5a-83d2-d87b83450ad1" CreationDate="2019-09-01T20:31:05.693" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41192" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11925" RevisionGUID="65b3e172-0a78-4687-ae88-c567a7e5d5b0" CreationDate="2019-09-01T22:06:40.470" UserId="13429" Text="I want to install custom liquid cooling for CPU and GPU using 1 radiator and 1 pump. As I get from videos there are about 10 different schemas to do it. Where can I get some list of such schemas and recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41193" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11925" RevisionGUID="65b3e172-0a78-4687-ae88-c567a7e5d5b0" CreationDate="2019-09-01T22:06:40.470" UserId="13429" Text="Where can I get schemas for liquid cooling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41194" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11925" RevisionGUID="65b3e172-0a78-4687-ae88-c567a7e5d5b0" CreationDate="2019-09-01T22:06:40.470" UserId="13429" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41195" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="b35bb398-e152-4c57-bd83-1bb5dd8368b5" CreationDate="2019-09-01T23:02:40.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41196" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11926" RevisionGUID="1fc3c1ad-bee2-4393-9361-418a035f3829" CreationDate="2019-09-02T02:37:53.300" UserId="1921" Text="The radiator has to be connected to the pump.  The pump is connected to the CPU block, and that is connected to the GPU block.  The GPU block is then connected back to the radiator thus completing the loop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is done because the modern GPU can often get hotter than the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can either use a special chemical, or water with an additive to kill any micro-organisms living in the water. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11928" RevisionGUID="51a90f71-5eb4-4ca8-bc86-f80e5a2e4abd" CreationDate="2019-09-02T07:54:14.043" UserId="10476" Text="For a build with a Xeon 3275, Asus dominus extreme, and 4 Nvidia Titan RTX; Should I take 1600W PSU or two 1000W PSUs ?&#xD;&#xA;There is a dual 24-pin on the motherboard: is it mandatory ? for which usage is it ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41201" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11928" RevisionGUID="51a90f71-5eb4-4ca8-bc86-f80e5a2e4abd" CreationDate="2019-09-02T07:54:14.043" UserId="10476" Text="Which 1 or 2 ATX PSUs for Asus dominus extreme motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41202" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11928" RevisionGUID="51a90f71-5eb4-4ca8-bc86-f80e5a2e4abd" CreationDate="2019-09-02T07:54:14.043" UserId="10476" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41203" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="e0f6ef9d-208c-48ff-81f7-a6828a7e29b5" CreationDate="2019-09-02T09:01:00.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11929" RevisionGUID="9805e479-0792-4d7e-a012-dc498fa78409" CreationDate="2019-09-02T09:46:25.347" UserId="13434" Text="i'm after a cooling solution to a 9900k, I haven't bought the parts yet, but my case is the one i'm using currently. I'm after an air cooler, however the case has a limit of 155mm of clearance. I've seen many recommendations of the Noctua NH-D15, and the be quiet Dark Rock 4, however both are too large for the case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Mobo and ram i'm pairing with it is a ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming, and Corsair Vengeance 32gb, so 4x8GB kits.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The case for reference is an Aerocool Shard ATX Mid Tower. I'm located in Australia. Thanks all for any suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11929" RevisionGUID="9805e479-0792-4d7e-a012-dc498fa78409" CreationDate="2019-09-02T09:46:25.347" UserId="13434" Text="9900k Cooler Limited To 155mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11929" RevisionGUID="9805e479-0792-4d7e-a012-dc498fa78409" CreationDate="2019-09-02T09:46:25.347" UserId="13434" Text="&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11932" RevisionGUID="3764add1-e9ff-4cbf-9d5a-c4eeb3ba481a" CreationDate="2019-09-02T13:36:17.463" UserId="11232" Text="I'm looking for a laptop to be used for Penetration Testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1 TB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 12+ GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA Geforce 10 series (not a must but highly desirable)&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless/Network card compatible with hacking software (including those in Kali Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a clear budget but something around 500 USD (or cheaper) would probably be OK." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11932" RevisionGUID="3764add1-e9ff-4cbf-9d5a-c4eeb3ba481a" CreationDate="2019-09-02T13:36:17.463" UserId="11232" Text="Latop for Penetration Testing and Hacking" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11932" RevisionGUID="3764add1-e9ff-4cbf-9d5a-c4eeb3ba481a" CreationDate="2019-09-02T13:36:17.463" UserId="11232" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11932" RevisionGUID="258b1cf4-3928-433f-a67c-270fd6c3e908" CreationDate="2019-09-02T13:58:38.763" UserId="11232" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop to be used for Penetration Testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1 TB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 16+ GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GTX 10 series 2+ GB (not a must but highly desirable)&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless/Network card compatible with hacking software (including those in Kali Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a clear budget but something around 500 USD would probably be OK. Around 600 USD is acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41225" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11935" RevisionGUID="31c3c3c0-1a5e-4b42-bd1f-c833e7c5e76c" CreationDate="2019-09-02T19:09:49.050" UserId="13440" Text="I'm looking for a new mouse to work with on my laptop. I want it to be wireless, but I'm still deciding between Radio-frequency or Bluetooth. It needs to be precise since I often work with game engines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While researching, I started questioning the effects each would have on my laptop's battery.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Does a radio-frequency mouse affect in any way the battery life (at least more than a wired mouse)?  &#xD;&#xA; - Would a bluetooth mouse drain it faster than a radio-frequency mouse? &#xD;&#xA; - Does bluetooth version (2.1, 3.0, 4.0) make a difference on laptop battery usage? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding precision and response time, is there a difference between the two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, any recommendations are also welcome. I prefer bluetooth just because there's no need for an USB port. Also, it needs to be very cheap, around a maximum of 25€.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41226" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11935" RevisionGUID="31c3c3c0-1a5e-4b42-bd1f-c833e7c5e76c" CreationDate="2019-09-02T19:09:49.050" UserId="13440" Text="Effects of Radio-Frequency or Bluetooth Mouses on Laptop Battery Usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41227" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11935" RevisionGUID="31c3c3c0-1a5e-4b42-bd1f-c833e7c5e76c" CreationDate="2019-09-02T19:09:49.050" UserId="13440" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41231" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9575" RevisionGUID="f7df0271-e944-4e06-894b-acc029d27e06" CreationDate="2019-09-03T02:01:50.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11937" RevisionGUID="7b4c4ff8-e7c9-47c7-82e2-79119495e4d6" CreationDate="2019-09-03T05:57:40.700" UserId="13259" Text="Take a look at Scythe coolers such as &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Scythe 'Katana 4' CPU Cooler SCKTN-4000 (143mm) https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Scythe-Katana-4-CPU-Cooler-SCKTN-4000/1437103860?iid=173824696171&amp;rt=nc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Scythe SCKTN-5000 Katana 5 (135mm) https://www.ebay.com.au/c/9026543133?iid=273973469669&#xD;&#xA;http://tech-legend.com/reviews/scythe-katana-5/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Scythe Ninja 4 (155mm) https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Scythe-Ninja-4-High-Performance-CPU-Cooler/22012057588?iid=361579772995&amp;rt=nc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reliable and quiet coolers, I always recommend and install it myself to friends and customers. There have never been problems with overheating. No one complained about the increased noise." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41245" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="13246e63-d9fb-47eb-9416-2a0ae563fb7b" CreationDate="2019-09-03T12:05:50.887" UserId="13452" Text="I’m looking for device that will allow to connect my Bluetooth keyboard to any computer – it should be like a bridge between keyboard and send keyboard keys via USB so no driver is needed. On receiver side it should be tread like normal USB keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;I need this for sharing my keyboard via KVM to connected PC’s. Is there any device like that on the market?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41246" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="13246e63-d9fb-47eb-9416-2a0ae563fb7b" CreationDate="2019-09-03T12:05:50.887" UserId="13452" Text="USB dongle for bluetooth keyboard with keyboard driver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41247" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="13246e63-d9fb-47eb-9416-2a0ae563fb7b" CreationDate="2019-09-03T12:05:50.887" UserId="13452" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41254" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="474322b0-fe34-4669-8c1c-c9e9fa65fc66" CreationDate="2019-09-03T18:01:40.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="1b78bcf1-2353-4d16-837e-82d3b57d75d6" CreationDate="2019-09-03T20:01:55.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41264" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="5cf7586f-237c-4424-8a83-4da1474becbd" CreationDate="2019-09-03T22:03:10.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11932" RevisionGUID="87faa381-3e9f-40f5-a83f-ab544b12e588" CreationDate="2019-09-04T03:02:48.887" UserId="11232" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop to be used for Penetration Testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 1 TB SSD&#xD;&#xA;- 16+ GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GTX 10 series 2+ GB (not a must but highly desirable)&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless/Network card compatible with hacking software (including those in Kali Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a clear budget but something around 600-1000 USD would probably be OK." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41272" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="d567f15d-f608-47ef-a59f-0fb8a3487587" CreationDate="2019-09-04T03:03:20.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11948" RevisionGUID="7014b05e-42b4-4532-85d4-9162005fe988" CreationDate="2019-09-04T05:26:21.177" UserId="13259" Text="orico bta-403 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=orico+bta-403&amp;_sacat=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus USB-BT400 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=Asus+BT400&amp;_sacat=0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bluetooth USB Adapter 4.0 Wireless Adapter for Laptop PC Support Mouse Keyboard https://www.gearbest.com/chargers-cables/pp_1710743.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How each one works in your particular case - no one can say. You just have to try." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41277" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="0c6078dc-9e4a-4c99-8eeb-00356faf93a4" CreationDate="2019-09-04T06:01:10.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41283" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="f186b2fe-c93c-47f5-b201-47d07af61c36" CreationDate="2019-09-04T11:00:50.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41297" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11953" RevisionGUID="cb40ffb3-6c3f-481b-a10a-921862c5acc4" CreationDate="2019-09-04T15:23:43.983" UserId="13466" Text="I've been programming with corsair k55 RGB keyboard and I absolutely love it!&#xD;&#xA;It is not noisy at all, the feeling of typing is great and I love the fact that it is lighted.&#xD;&#xA;The only problem is that I am using a Macbook and I am missing the macro buttons (not supported).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for backlit, mac compatible, silent keyboard with macro buttons.&#xD;&#xA;Around 50$ would be great.&#xD;&#xA;I really like Logitech but it is too expensive for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41298" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11953" RevisionGUID="cb40ffb3-6c3f-481b-a10a-921862c5acc4" CreationDate="2019-09-04T15:23:43.983" UserId="13466" Text="Backlit, silent, mac compatible keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41299" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11953" RevisionGUID="cb40ffb3-6c3f-481b-a10a-921862c5acc4" CreationDate="2019-09-04T15:23:43.983" UserId="13466" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;silent&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41328" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="f5b1de6a-7e11-4f0e-9429-3da96673bf2b" CreationDate="2019-09-05T05:02:15.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41335" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11960" RevisionGUID="a2f0f2dc-6102-496e-aaec-185bdefddb18" CreationDate="2019-09-05T16:09:00.477" UserId="13479" Text="I'm search for a monitor that can handle an input signal of 4k at 60fps, over its HDMI input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found the Dell Ultrasharp U3219Q that have a HDMI port. As you can see in [its online manual][1], page 14 in the table :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Ports and connectors : 1 x DisplayPort version 1.4 (HDCP 2.2)•   1 x HDMI port version 2.0 (HDCP 2.2)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, in page 16, again in the table :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Electrical specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Video input signals : HDMI 2.0*/DisplayPort 1.4**, 600 mV for each differential line, 100 ohm input impedance per differential pair&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ...&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Not supporting HDMI 2.0 optional specification, including HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), Audio Return Channel (ARC), standard for 3D format and resolutions, and standard for 4K digital cinema resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ** HDR is supported, but HBR3 is not supported; DP 1.2 is supported.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, this is an HDMI 2.0 input port, but it doesn't support HDMI 2.0 specification ? What am I supposed to understand there ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have this monitor and can attest if this port allows or not a 4k@60 input signal ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_display_projector/esuprt_display/dell-u3219q-monitor_user%27s-guide_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41336" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11960" RevisionGUID="a2f0f2dc-6102-496e-aaec-185bdefddb18" CreationDate="2019-09-05T16:09:00.477" UserId="13479" Text="Can the HDMI input of the Dell monitor U3219Q handle a 4k@60fps input signal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41337" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11960" RevisionGUID="a2f0f2dc-6102-496e-aaec-185bdefddb18" CreationDate="2019-09-05T16:09:00.477" UserId="13479" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41338" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="6ae04017-1505-4193-8d2a-883f0748331f" CreationDate="2019-09-05T18:02:15.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11961" RevisionGUID="4404159f-5582-41a5-8cf8-18b2ad74200e" CreationDate="2019-09-05T18:28:59.977" UserId="1873" Text="A quick search shows you might have some luck with Beaglebone or Beagleboard with regards to emulation. OTOH those boards are cheaper then most JTAG debuggers.&#xA;&#xA;I know of three companies manufacturing Cortex-A processors which have openly downloadable documentation:&#xA;&#xA;- Texas Instruments (theirs are in the Beaglebone)&#xA;- NXP&#xA;- ST Microelectronics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11962" RevisionGUID="468e22f6-ceb6-401a-9d5c-2c99f51331b9" CreationDate="2019-09-05T18:39:13.437" UserId="10648" Text="The footnotes on that page of the manual can be rephrased like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Supports HDMI 2.0, but without optional specifications ... such as 4K digital *cinema* resolution (4096 x 2160).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at the page right above &quot;Electrical Specifications&quot; you can see that the monitor does support 3840 x 2160 @ 60hz as long as the video device supports HDMI 2.0." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41341" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11962" RevisionGUID="126f377c-7647-4dd2-8c59-597fa92c66b7" CreationDate="2019-09-05T19:41:21.167" UserId="10648" Comment="added 365 characters in body" Text="&gt;Can the HDMI input of the Dell monitor U3219Q handle a 4k@60fps input signal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The footnotes on that page of the manual can be rephrased like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Supports HDMI 2.0, but without optional specifications ... such as 4K digital *cinema* resolution (4096 x 2160).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at the page right above &quot;Electrical Specifications&quot; you can see that the monitor does support `3840 x 2160 @ 60hz` as long as the video device supports HDMI 2.0.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And another note on 4K terminology:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`3840 x 2160` and `4096 x 2160` are both casually called &quot;4K&quot; but to avoid ambiguity the former is referred to as &quot;UHD&quot;. The Digital Cinema Initiatives (DCI) have used &quot;4K&quot; for their `4096 x 2160` resolution too, so it is more specific to refer to that as &quot;DCI 4K&quot; or &quot;Cinematic 4K&quot;, which is what Dell has done in your manual." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11964" RevisionGUID="ede4d952-9ce8-4bf1-9e4c-50d4d137c93e" CreationDate="2019-09-06T03:51:44.403" UserId="13483" Text="I am Currently Looking for a Thermal Camera which either has an lcd screen which can be be extended away from the camera or simply a high quality thermal camera which can be programed into an lcd. Prefferable at reasonable price that is. Another option that I'm open to also i buying a premade thermal camera but i dont really know which ones can detect small scale temperature differences (I.E Pests on walls or the Ticks on the body of a dog. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41354" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11964" RevisionGUID="ede4d952-9ce8-4bf1-9e4c-50d4d137c93e" CreationDate="2019-09-06T03:51:44.403" UserId="13483" Text="Small Form Factor Thermal Camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41355" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11964" RevisionGUID="ede4d952-9ce8-4bf1-9e4c-50d4d137c93e" CreationDate="2019-09-06T03:51:44.403" UserId="13483" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41360" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11966" RevisionGUID="e97d02ec-192f-419e-8cbb-a07741f117f9" CreationDate="2019-09-06T15:14:44.710" UserId="13488" Text="Does anyone know of an intel quad-socket server that can hold 40-48 NVMe drives all connected via 4x pci lanes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41361" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11966" RevisionGUID="e97d02ec-192f-419e-8cbb-a07741f117f9" CreationDate="2019-09-06T15:14:44.710" UserId="13488" Text="Is there a super-dense quad socket NVMe server?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41362" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11966" RevisionGUID="e97d02ec-192f-419e-8cbb-a07741f117f9" CreationDate="2019-09-06T15:14:44.710" UserId="13488" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41386" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="d10d59fd-751e-4456-b572-04f3660cff03" CreationDate="2019-09-07T12:02:10.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11968" RevisionGUID="b8777978-bd78-4efe-be46-360f4c388c5f" CreationDate="2019-09-07T12:17:04.550" UserId="13492" Text="I'm currently searching for a way to get 4 channels of audio from mic level (XLR input) into a Raspberry Pi. Either as a single interface device or one channel and use four of them.&#xD;&#xA;It only has to be something simple as it will be built into a casing of a bigger product. Price is definitely a point. I'm looking for something in the sub 60$ range.&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it would have an XLR input, Phantom Power (doesn't necessarily have to include that), gain and USB-Connection to the Raspberry built onto a circuit board.  But jack input would be fine as well. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41388" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11968" RevisionGUID="b8777978-bd78-4efe-be46-360f4c388c5f" CreationDate="2019-09-07T12:17:04.550" UserId="13492" Text="Need Recommendation for Simple Audio Interfacing into Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41389" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11968" RevisionGUID="b8777978-bd78-4efe-be46-360f4c388c5f" CreationDate="2019-09-07T12:17:04.550" UserId="13492" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11969" RevisionGUID="b110461e-360a-4619-b019-24956ba65e8b" CreationDate="2019-09-07T19:28:40.797" UserId="10626" Text="[AMG8833][1] is a popular thermal camera which has an accuracy of 2.5 °C (4.5 °F). The benefit is that it's commonly used, and has a pretty decent support. The drawback is its tiny resolution, 8×8 pixels only. It costs around $40.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MLX90640][2] is another, although less popular, choice, with its increased resolution of 32×24 pixels and an accuracy of 1.5 °C. You can get it for $70. Using one is more difficult than AMG8833, especially regarding to the hardware requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Please be aware that the MLX90640 requires complex calculations by the host platform so a regular Arduino Uno (or equivalent) doesn't have enough RAM or flash to complete the complex computations required to turn the raw pixel data into temperature data. You will need a microcontroller with 20,000 bytes or more of RAM. To achieve this, we recommend a Teensy 3.1 or above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $240, you can get [Lepton 2.5 thermal camera module][3] which comes with an impressive resolution of 80×60 pixels, but a disappointing accuracy of only 5 °C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Flir website][4] lists more models, including [Lepton 3.5 camera core][5] with its 50 mK thermal sensitivity (the same as 2.5 version) and a resolution of 160×120 pixels. The camera core seems to be sold for about $270, but I can't find it in a form of a module to be used with Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you get more specialized models such as [Neutrino SX12][6] with a sensitivity of 25 mK and a resolution of 1280×1024 pixels. You'll need something other than a Raspberry Pi to power that thing. I can't find its price, but I won't be surprised to find that you have to pay more than a thousand dollars for a device like that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-amg8833-8x8-thermal-camera-sensor/raspberry-pi-thermal-camera&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14843&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14654&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.flir.com/browse/camera-cores--components/thermal-camera-cores/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.flir.com/products/lepton/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.flir.com/products/neutrino-performance-series/?model=425-0039-00" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11972" RevisionGUID="3eb0e2d9-69d0-45bd-8da3-5348f785a4d9" CreationDate="2019-09-07T23:02:37.877" UserId="10576" Text="Been a long while since i posted this, but i thought i'd throw out an answer in case this comes up in searches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is indeed an airflow problem, but i fixed it without changing the CPU cooler. &#xD;&#xA;I've bought 5x ARCTIC AC BioniX F140 and placed them like this -&gt; 2 front in, 2 top out, 1 back out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This keeps everything cooler since the hot air generated from my RTX can get out a bit faster and the power of those fans is quite nice (but damn they are loud sometimes). They have PWM sharing so i set them up like 2+2+1 in PWM slots so they dont go crazy with no reason (trust me, 5 of those running at 100% will make you think you're in an airport). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the price (about 80$ for all 5) they are fine, but they are extremely loud at full speed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11975" RevisionGUID="b239d03d-fd72-4a49-8666-853ce30fb439" CreationDate="2019-09-08T14:27:15.813" UserId="13500" Text="Ive been looking into POS (point of service) systems for restaurants/retail, and wish to create a system like this myself, making my own software. &#xD;&#xA;However, i am having trouble finding any manufacture with a tablet that you can put your own software onto. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with this type of thing and could point me in the right direction. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this is what i have in mind, However i do not need a card reader or anything, just simply something small, with wifi, and touchscreen. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.clover.com/shop/product/mini-table-service/lte&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;some info - &#xD;&#xA;must be a tablet&#xD;&#xA;budget is around 200 per tablet. &#xD;&#xA;must be able to put custom firmware on the device&#xD;&#xA;would like it to be unbranded/be able to put my own brand on it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41408" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11975" RevisionGUID="b239d03d-fd72-4a49-8666-853ce30fb439" CreationDate="2019-09-08T14:27:15.813" UserId="13500" Text="Creating my own POS tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41409" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11975" RevisionGUID="b239d03d-fd72-4a49-8666-853ce30fb439" CreationDate="2019-09-08T14:27:15.813" UserId="13500" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11979" RevisionGUID="ec83d3b7-c6eb-4c97-ad0d-249110d43d69" CreationDate="2019-09-09T11:21:44.843" UserId="13506" Text="Try this [link][1]:  Hope it helps,&#xD;&#xA;https://mdcomputers.in/nzxt-aer-rgb-2-140mm-hf-28140-b1.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw8NfrBRA7EiwAfiVJpTkNCAPsmRtGpgPLexaFjdqd3kj4arbMjIBcL0nS0q2kZWhUsaMmyxoCI9IQAvD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mywaywealth.com" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41436" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11508" RevisionGUID="846fc424-2be5-4546-95a5-52ad06a77721" CreationDate="2019-09-09T19:01:15.447" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11987" RevisionGUID="b7357eaa-33e1-45be-85f4-c5a96938dc33" CreationDate="2019-09-10T14:45:23.777" UserId="13514" Text="I'm looking to get rid of my old HDD (my xbox HDD is dying so prob put it in that) and replace it with an SSD. I would like to make use of the M.2 port on my motherboard if I can. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my motherboard [Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H](https://www.gigabyte.com/uk/Motherboard/GA-B150M-D3H-rev-10#ov)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had looked at getting this [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SB2MXT/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d) but just before hitting buy I noticed that the transfer rate wasn't what I was expecting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know much about M.2 so I'm not sure what kind will work with my motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41461" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11987" RevisionGUID="b7357eaa-33e1-45be-85f4-c5a96938dc33" CreationDate="2019-09-10T14:45:23.777" UserId="13514" Text="Looking for a compatible M.2 drive for my motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41462" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11987" RevisionGUID="b7357eaa-33e1-45be-85f4-c5a96938dc33" CreationDate="2019-09-10T14:45:23.777" UserId="13514" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11988" RevisionGUID="9be3f492-a92f-41ad-bddb-13870b77d968" CreationDate="2019-09-10T15:41:46.357" UserId="10648" Text="The motherboard specifications say the following about your M.2 port:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 1 x M.2 Socket 3 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280 SATA &amp; PCIe x4/x2/x1 SSD support)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means *any* M.2 drive should be supported by your motherboard. Except drives that are wider than 22mm, or longer than 80mm. (2280 = 22 x 80 mm)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41464" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="5d2d8b72-2a3f-4906-b241-df6a569afafd" CreationDate="2019-09-10T20:01:50.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11989" RevisionGUID="75c3c3b2-b972-4620-b66e-829435b9e7aa" CreationDate="2019-09-10T20:06:03.817" UserId="10648" Text="I have work experience with a few retail companies, and have provided technical support for various POS systems as well. Every single system I have seen or worked with is running a standard operating system under the hood.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Windows&#xD;&#xA;- Android&#xD;&#xA;- iOS&#xD;&#xA;- Linux&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these POS systems hid the operating system from end-users by removing OEM logos, replacing or hiding OS menus/graphics, making their app fullscreen, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking the Clover POS tablet you linked as an example; This product [is actually running a custom Android OS][1] and the Clover software is essentially just an Android app!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suggest that you look for a touchscreen device running one of the common operating systems and begin developing an app for that device. Regardless of which OS you work with, it can later be customized to be transparent to end-users.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want to go as far as creating your own OS for a tablet, you can make a custom version of Android using the [Android Open Source Project][2]. The device you are developing for must be unlocked and it will likely require additional code or patches from the device manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.clover.com/clover-platform/docs/clover-architecture&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://source.android.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41469" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="11987" RevisionGUID="693a31fc-4a0f-4fb9-9ab1-1cbb329c4715" CreationDate="2019-09-10T20:56:08.163" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41472" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1836" RevisionGUID="6a0cc039-5ca8-4761-ad2d-9c9b3b05429b" CreationDate="2019-09-11T04:03:20.377" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11992" RevisionGUID="e33ddba7-baff-437f-8ad2-86d20a607098" CreationDate="2019-09-11T14:09:37.127" UserId="13521" Text="So I'm currently standing between two choices of macbook pro's. My need is to be able to hook up my macbook via thunderbolt 2 to a dock, and from the dock connect it to a monitor and obtain 4k@60Hz (+ other peripherals). I aim to use this for Xcode, general programming (data science and AI), Matlab, Eclipse, R, Python and watch videos in 4k, thus any sort of lag or klick-delay is very undesirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care much about the haptic track pad and esthetics. Also the amount of storage is not important either since I use external SSD or NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of the following should I choose, all things (except price) considered?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Macbook Pro Retina 15'' mid 2015:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel core i7 @ 2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB @ 1600 MHz DDR3&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB flash SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Macbook Pro Retina 15'' mid 2014:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel core i7 4870HQ QuadCore @ 2.5 GHz (3.7 GHz turbo boost) &#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB @1600 MHz DDR3L &#xD;&#xA; - 240 GB flash SSD &#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 2GB GDDR5 +&#xD;&#xA;   Intel Iris Pro 1536MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To me, the 2014 version seem to be better, but I feel like I'm missing something that the specs aren't covering. Also the 2014 model currently has 0 bids while the 2015 has like 50 bids. Why does the 2015 seem to be more attractive to people if the 2014 has better specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41481" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11992" RevisionGUID="e33ddba7-baff-437f-8ad2-86d20a607098" CreationDate="2019-09-11T14:09:37.127" UserId="13521" Text="Mid 2014 macbook pro vs mid 2015 macbook pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41482" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11992" RevisionGUID="e33ddba7-baff-437f-8ad2-86d20a607098" CreationDate="2019-09-11T14:09:37.127" UserId="13521" Text="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11993" RevisionGUID="2d1b2b62-a12a-4028-9b4f-31cdd721582b" CreationDate="2019-09-11T17:06:26.367" UserId="13522" Text="Are there any consumer-priced, **single**-band (5GHz / 802.11ac only) WiFi routers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41484" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11993" RevisionGUID="2d1b2b62-a12a-4028-9b4f-31cdd721582b" CreationDate="2019-09-11T17:06:26.367" UserId="13522" Text="Single-band, 5GHz only WiFi router?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41485" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11993" RevisionGUID="2d1b2b62-a12a-4028-9b4f-31cdd721582b" CreationDate="2019-09-11T17:06:26.367" UserId="13522" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11995" RevisionGUID="fb203906-55e1-4dd8-9739-09c90d46ed91" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:33:56.110" UserId="13526" Text="The company I work for is finding that a majority of our users use iPhone's with our web services.  Since I only have Android and Windows devices, I cannot test Safari myself and therefore occasionally run into Safari-only issues.  As a result, I'm looking into getting my first Apple device for testing Safari (as opposed to using a paid testing service).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thoughts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - iTouch seams like a great, cheap alternative but the screensize is considerably smaller then the iPhones I'm targeting.&#xD;&#xA; - iPhone would work as it is the best way to see what clients see but is a waist of a phone just for Safari and can be quite expensive for something more current.&#xD;&#xA; - iPad gives you more space to work with but not sure if I can scale down the browser to simulate an iPhone's size (again, Apple newbie here!).&#xD;&#xA; - Base Mac Mini, compared to iPads and iPhones, isn't much more and allows me to test Safari at many sizes as well as run simulator's with [free] xCode.  Not to mention lets me start learning the macOS ecosystem and start with mac/iOS development.  No touch capabilities and Safari implementation not exactly the same as iOS (from what I've read anyway).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on devices, new or used, from Apple users would be great! (I would like to get a number of years out of it so I would rather it not be terribly outdated.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41488" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="11995" RevisionGUID="fb203906-55e1-4dd8-9739-09c90d46ed91" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:33:56.110" UserId="13526" Text="Safari Webpage Development Hardware: Mac [mini], iPad, iPhone or iTouch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41489" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="11995" RevisionGUID="fb203906-55e1-4dd8-9739-09c90d46ed91" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:33:56.110" UserId="13526" Text="&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11993" RevisionGUID="ed76accc-48f7-4de1-a732-705e281337a9" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:55:23.693" UserId="13522" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="Are there any consumer-priced, **single**-band (5GHz / 802.11ac only) WiFi routers, i.e., ones that *only* have a 5GHz radio?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11996" RevisionGUID="091399e4-0d53-44f3-978b-c6437dd328a5" CreationDate="2019-09-11T20:56:23.243" UserId="10626" Text="I would advise you against your own hardware for this task. The goal of Raspberry Pi is to be a small-size substitute for a PC, not a large-size substitute for a professional recorder.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on your comments, you have some quantity of XLR microphones—you weren't clear if it's two stereo microphones or four mono microphones—and you want to mix this sound and stream it to the web.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a Raspberry Pi, you'll have three limitations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Connectors. XLR connectors are quite specific, because of the constraints of audio signal transfer. While XLR to USB adapters and cables exist, it will have its negative consequences if you require quality sound, and it possibly won't have the features of standard XLR (possibly no phantom power).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   The fact that you want to install it into a rack makes things worse, since you possibly won't be able to use USB connectors, and would require to make your own connectors, somehow. Unless you have experience with that, here again the audio quality will suffer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Performance. Raspberry Pi is a nice and very capable machine, but if you want to process and stream sound in real time, it may quickly become a limiting factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Software. Things as simple as adjusting the levels of the individual microphones or visualizing the levels to check if they are set correctly would probably require either to develop a custom script or to install a custom software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead, you may purchase either a mixing board, or grab an audio recorder. Zoom H6 could be a good idea; while it costs around $300, you may take in account that a Raspberry Pi, the XLR connectors and the custom rack enclosure won't be cheap either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another choice would be to use Zoom H5 with a EXH-6 Dual XLR/TRS combo capsule if you have four XLR microphones, or just the recorder without the additional capsule if you have only two stereo ones for about $160 used (or $210 new). Or you can look for older models, second hand, which may be found for a price below $60).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A few illustrations of Zoom H6:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPanS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSwXq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41492" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="11997" RevisionGUID="513e559c-2864-4ce3-a9a4-b88d7fceb4f2" CreationDate="2019-09-11T21:05:59.040" UserId="10648" Text="Routers and WiFi devices have to undergo [certification][1] to have the &quot;WiFi&quot; branding. Any router that does not have a 2.4 Ghz radio would be lacking support for [IEEE 802.11 b/g/n][2] and surely would fail certification.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;That means there is *no such thing* as a &quot;WiFi&quot; router with only a 5 Ghz radio. You can disable the 2.4 Ghz radio in many routers though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend seeking out a product that explicitly avoids having a 2.4 Ghz radio. It wouldn't even be guaranteed to work with all 5 Ghz devices since the certification is not there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.wi-fi.org/certification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11997" RevisionGUID="98dee34e-128c-49da-9d44-11a6cbe0ed3b" CreationDate="2019-09-11T21:11:03.693" UserId="10648" Comment="added 117 characters in body" Text="Routers and WiFi devices have to undergo [certification][1] to have the &quot;WiFi&quot; branding. Any router that does not have a 2.4 Ghz radio would be lacking support for [IEEE 802.11 b/g/n][2] and surely would fail certification.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;That means there is *no such thing* as a &quot;WiFi&quot; router with only a 5 Ghz radio. You can disable the 2.4 Ghz radio in many routers though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now, I would not recommend seeking out a product that explicitly avoids having a 2.4 Ghz radio. It wouldn't be guaranteed to work with all 5 Ghz devices since the certification is not there. Some day the WiFi Alliance may decide to deprecate the 2.4 Ghz standards and this answer may no longer be correct.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.wi-fi.org/certification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12003" RevisionGUID="1675e6e1-7d6d-4c53-92a8-e9c171e2af0d" CreationDate="2019-09-12T13:39:26.557" UserId="13533" Text="as a new project I want to establish a home server/NAS solution at my home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to fulfill following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The solution shall host an application server which runs an Jira instance (nothing to big, maybe 2-5 Users, manage small own projects regarding own software coding projects)&#xD;&#xA;- The solution shall host an own DB server (something like mySQL or postgres, also only for own occasional usage, e.g. handling a DB for financial income/outcome, so no huge data space and workload is expected)&#xD;&#xA;- The solution shall fulfill a classical NAS usage, like do automatic backup of photos and documents from different computers in the household&#xD;&#xA;- The solution shall be reachable 24/7, so a low power consumption shall be accounted&#xD;&#xA;- Jira instance/DB instances and data like photos/documents shall be online (not just within my home network, but also outside)&#xD;&#xA;- The hardware shall cost below 400€&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which hardware should I buy? I am a little bit scared that I buy a to low powered solution. I favor a NAS solution of synology like this one&#xD;&#xA;https://www.synology.com/de-de/products/DS218&#xD;&#xA;But I am not sure that I can run the mentioned applications (Jira, DB server) on it.&#xD;&#xA;Do this NAS products provide an OS or do they only provide data space?&#xD;&#xA;Do I do it right that I reasearch for NAS solutions or am I on the wrong path here?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your answers&#xD;&#xA;SpiderTom89&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41509" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12003" RevisionGUID="1675e6e1-7d6d-4c53-92a8-e9c171e2af0d" CreationDate="2019-09-12T13:39:26.557" UserId="13533" Text="Server/NAS system for private usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41510" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12003" RevisionGUID="1675e6e1-7d6d-4c53-92a8-e9c171e2af0d" CreationDate="2019-09-12T13:39:26.557" UserId="13533" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41511" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12004" RevisionGUID="e3f48296-e70a-4b76-bd52-e86bd5e7304a" CreationDate="2019-09-12T14:07:26.340" UserId="13535" Text="I know a similar question [is there][1] but it was asked 4 years ago and the market has changed significantly. &#xD;&#xA;Now I'm looking for a small wireless camera (maybe as small as phones' cameras). I found [this one][2] but still big for my purpose, is there any smaller ones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/74/3d-portable-camera-with-depth-sensing-for-less-than-100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.intelrealsense.com/buy-intel-realsense-depth-camera-sr305.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41512" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12004" RevisionGUID="e3f48296-e70a-4b76-bd52-e86bd5e7304a" CreationDate="2019-09-12T14:07:26.340" UserId="13535" Text="3D portable camera with depth sensing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41513" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12004" RevisionGUID="e3f48296-e70a-4b76-bd52-e86bd5e7304a" CreationDate="2019-09-12T14:07:26.340" UserId="13535" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;3d-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="93f30b34-93b0-4da9-8aa1-7c405f662312" CreationDate="2019-09-12T17:54:39.653" UserId="13536" Text="I work with a non-profit that has an Optec digital sign about 30 feet in front of the building. Our wireless transmitter(Outdoor Bridge?) has corroded beyond repair.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After months of struggling for cooperation from their customer service, they're insisting that we need a (Engenius Bundle Kit - A Series) &quot;$1350&quot; bundle to replace our system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system is really straightforward. Our computer that connects to the sign has a seperate NIC that connects straight to the sign. Originally it went into an RJ45 power to a transmitter, going over a matching pair over at our sign.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can just plug in a 50ft ethernet cable to the nic and walk it straight to the sign. It works. I have a hard time believing that it will require $1350 to just let it communicate that far. I just need to connect to a local IP, and it supposedly can't be connecting through our wireless network(Something related to DHCP?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;~&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to have a NIC to NIC connection. Something that functions the same as an Ethernet cable, but able to not be exposed to the outdoor elements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is a connection like this something that requires over $1000 in parts? Is it true that I would have to use their specific model so that they can 'program' it to communication between two windows computers? I'm not a networking guy, I'm sorry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks so much for any information. We can't afford the steep cost we're being presented with." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="93f30b34-93b0-4da9-8aa1-7c405f662312" CreationDate="2019-09-12T17:54:39.653" UserId="13536" Text="Transmitting an NIC to NIC Ethernet connection wirelessly 30-50ft" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="93f30b34-93b0-4da9-8aa1-7c405f662312" CreationDate="2019-09-12T17:54:39.653" UserId="13536" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41531" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12009" RevisionGUID="515e970c-3c85-4d04-bf13-4595e43db6f4" CreationDate="2019-09-12T21:40:50.913" UserId="6089" Text="I've used a [wireless ethernet bridge adapter][1] to turn a wired network connection into a wireless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![wired to wireless adapter][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As shown in the photo, the RJ-45 connects to the previously wired device, while power is provided via USB or a barrel type power connection. If there is a conventional power outlet, one can use a common USB charger block to provide power to the unit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe the set up process involves a smart-phone, connected to the device's internal web page, configuring for connection to your local network and that's it. It's been a while since I did the set up, but it's a simple task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Ethernet-Network-Bridge-Adapter/dp/B01GF6GST4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Chaot.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41532" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="a62c7ff2-614d-4664-aa7f-00555b921983" CreationDate="2019-09-12T21:53:40.093" UserId="13539" Text="I am deciding which parts to include in my PC, primarily aimed towards gaming. My last PC lasted 7 years so longevity is the key for this build.&#xD;&#xA;Obviously no one can know the future so I'm just looking for more experienced guesses.&#xD;&#xA;Right now the difference between the 9th generation i5,i7,i9 is measly. However, from GCSE computing science I know that programs have to be coded to use cores.&#xD;&#xA;So in future will more cores become more common? Or will the difference between eight and eighteen cores remain negligible especially when in the context of VR. Also to clarify, will the i5-9600k's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-900k?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41533" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="a62c7ff2-614d-4664-aa7f-00555b921983" CreationDate="2019-09-12T21:53:40.093" UserId="13539" Text="Will eighteen cores in a CPU become more relevant in the future for gaming and VR?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41534" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="a62c7ff2-614d-4664-aa7f-00555b921983" CreationDate="2019-09-12T21:53:40.093" UserId="13539" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="04b62d86-9782-49f0-92bb-ed40fc33e8a6" CreationDate="2019-09-13T08:11:55.920" UserId="13451" Text="Could anyone recommend a mini (approx. 2mm x 2mm) waterproof USB infrared webcam for Raspberry Pi. This will be used for aquatic life monitoring. Any suggestions would be appreciated as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41537" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="04b62d86-9782-49f0-92bb-ed40fc33e8a6" CreationDate="2019-09-13T08:11:55.920" UserId="13451" Text="Recommendation for a mini waterproof USB infrared webcam for Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41538" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="04b62d86-9782-49f0-92bb-ed40fc33e8a6" CreationDate="2019-09-13T08:11:55.920" UserId="13451" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;waterproof&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12013" RevisionGUID="cb1dbfea-fd43-409f-87dc-0d2ab50d6f5f" CreationDate="2019-09-13T13:41:20.233" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; Will the i5-9600K's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-9900K?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these CPUs will always be more than enough for general computing needs over the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at some FPS [benchmarks][1] to compare the [i9-9900K][2] and [i5-9600K][3] you might see that the i9 has a small FPS advantage over the i5. That advantage really comes from the slightly higher clock speeds (5.0 Ghz vs 4.6 Ghz). The extra cores on the i9 can't really be utilized to increase FPS further, and it is unlikely that games will be *requiring* more than 6-8 cores in the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have a good, lasting CPU for gaming if you buy the i5-9600K. There are reasons to consider the i9 for use-cases other than gaming though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why don't more cores help? Will they ever help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In computer science, we use a phrase, *&quot;Divide and Conquer&quot;* to describe algorithms that can break up a large task into many independent tasks. Tasks like encoding videos, compressing files, updating thousands of database rows, etc. can be accomplished using a &quot;divide and conquer&quot; algorithm that breaks up the data into isolated sections and processes them in parallel on as many cores as possible. This is the sort of CPU workload where CPUs with lots of cores shine, and unfortunately games just don't fall under the criteria for &quot;divide and conquer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Games and real-time simulation are the sort of program that requires frame A to be computed before starting frame B, and so on. This is accomplished with a loop, and every frame or update is an iteration of that loop. You may already know that loops execute on a single thread, which means only one core in the CPU is really &quot;in charge&quot; of the entire game. The maximum rate at which this loop can execute is the max speed of the game engine, and this is why higher clock speeds lead to higher FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are ways to break off some of the workload from the master thread though. For example, AI doesn't need to make decisions *every frame*; Resources like textures and models can be loaded in the background and used when they're ready. These kinds of tasks can be offloaded to other cores, but they usually aren't algorithms that completely utilize a core (they sleep while waiting for files, network, etc.) Which means several threads spun up for side-jobs are able to share just a few extra cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you can usually gauge the next 4-5 years of gaming requirements by what the current/next generation of game consoles are using. The next XBOX and Playstation are expected to have 8C/16T CPUs so you certainly won't need more than 8 cores to keep up with the next generation of games. But keep in mind the current generation of consoles had reserved a number of cores for the OS, and are now also capable of live-streaming, installing games, and other background tasks that require the CPU while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13400/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-i7-9700k-i5-9600k-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134896/intel-core-i5-9600k-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12013" RevisionGUID="68ac66b9-a040-4225-878b-811d00c4ac26" CreationDate="2019-09-13T13:47:06.203" UserId="10648" Comment="edited body" Text="&gt; Will the i5-9600K's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-9900K?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these CPUs will always be more than enough for general computing needs over the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at some FPS [benchmarks][1] to compare the [i9-9900K][2] and [i5-9600K][3] you might see that the i9 has a small FPS advantage over the i5. That advantage really comes from the slightly higher clock speeds (5.0 Ghz vs 4.6 Ghz). The extra cores on the i9 can't really be utilized to increase FPS further, and it is unlikely that games will be *requiring* more than 6-8 cores in the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have a good, lasting CPU for gaming if you buy the i5-9600K. There are reasons to consider the i9 for use-cases other than gaming though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why don't more cores help? Will they ever help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In computer science, we use a phrase, *&quot;Divide and Conquer&quot;* to describe algorithms that can break up a large task into many independent tasks. Tasks like encoding videos, compressing files, updating thousands of database rows, etc. can be accomplished using a &quot;divide and conquer&quot; algorithm that breaks up the data into isolated sections and processes them in parallel on as many cores as possible. This is the sort of CPU workload where CPUs with lots of cores shine, and unfortunately games just don't fall under the criteria for &quot;divide and conquer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Games and real-time simulation are the sort of program that requires frame A to be computed before starting frame B, and so on. This is accomplished with a loop, and every frame or update is an iteration of that loop. You may already know that loops execute on a single thread, which means only one core in the CPU is really &quot;in charge&quot; of the entire game. The maximum rate at which this loop can execute is the max speed of the game engine, and this is why higher clock speeds lead to higher FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are ways to break off some of the workload from the master thread though. For example, AI doesn't need to make decisions *every frame*; Resources like textures and models can be loaded in the background and used when they're ready. These kinds of tasks can be offloaded to other cores, but they usually aren't algorithms that completely utilize a core (they sleep while waiting for files, network, etc.) Which means several threads spun up for side-jobs are able to share just a few extra cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you can usually gauge the next 4-5 years of gaming requirements by what the current/next generation of game consoles are using. The next XBox and Playstation are expected to have 8C/16T CPUs so you certainly won't need more than 8 cores to keep up with the next generation of games. But keep in mind the current generation of consoles had reserved a number of cores for the OS, and are now also capable of live-streaming, installing games, and other background tasks that require the CPU while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13400/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-i7-9700k-i5-9600k-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134896/intel-core-i5-9600k-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12013" RevisionGUID="db37a3d1-32c7-4b1c-8f42-91094b7fa42a" CreationDate="2019-09-13T14:25:03.517" UserId="10648" Comment="added 114 characters in body" Text="&gt; Will the i5-9600K's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-9900K?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these CPUs will always be more than enough for general computing needs over the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at some FPS [benchmarks][1] to compare the [i9-9900K][2] and [i5-9600K][3] you might see that the i9 has a small FPS advantage over the i5. That advantage really comes from the slightly higher clock speeds (5.0 Ghz vs 4.6 Ghz). The extra cores on the i9 can't really be utilized to increase FPS further, and it is unlikely that games will be *requiring* more than 6-8 cores in the next 5 years. VR is pretty much the same CPU workload as gaming but with a higher desired FPS, so everything said next about gaming applies to VR too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have a good, lasting CPU for gaming if you buy the i5-9600K. There are reasons to consider the i9 for use-cases other than gaming though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why don't more cores help? Will they ever help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In computer science, we use a phrase, *&quot;Divide and Conquer&quot;* to describe algorithms that can break up a large task into many independent tasks. Tasks like encoding videos, compressing files, updating thousands of database rows, etc. can be accomplished using a &quot;divide and conquer&quot; algorithm that breaks up the data into isolated sections and processes them in parallel on as many cores as possible. This is the sort of CPU workload where CPUs with lots of cores shine, and unfortunately games just don't fall under the criteria for &quot;divide and conquer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Games and real-time simulation are the sort of program that requires frame A to be computed before starting frame B, and so on. This is accomplished with a loop, and every frame or update is an iteration of that loop. You may already know that loops execute on a single thread, which means only one core in the CPU is really &quot;in charge&quot; of the entire game. The maximum rate at which this loop can execute is the max speed of the game engine, and this is why higher clock speeds lead to higher FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are ways to break off some of the workload from the master thread though. For example, AI doesn't need to make decisions *every frame*; Resources like textures and models can be loaded in the background and used when they're ready. These kinds of tasks can be offloaded to other cores, but they usually aren't algorithms that completely utilize a core (they sleep while waiting for files, network, etc.) Which means several threads spun up for side-jobs are able to share just a few extra cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you can usually gauge the next 4-5 years of gaming requirements by what the current/next generation of game consoles are using. The next XBox and Playstation are expected to have 8C/16T CPUs so you certainly won't need more than 8 cores to keep up with the next generation of games. But keep in mind the current generation of consoles had reserved a number of cores for the OS, and are now also capable of live-streaming, installing games, and other background tasks that require the CPU while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13400/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-i7-9700k-i5-9600k-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134896/intel-core-i5-9600k-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12014" RevisionGUID="0d71fe66-517a-430e-a67f-fcc0d7703013" CreationDate="2019-09-13T17:16:04.477" UserId="10626" Text="2×2 mm waterproof casing means likely a 1x1 mm sensor, which means terrible image quality and low resolution. Are you sure this is what you want?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, tiny cameras measure around 6×6 mm. In order to find them, you need to use the term “snake camera,” “endoscope,” or “borescope.” The last two terms mean different things, but they seem to be used interchangeably on e-commerce sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that I couldn't find any *infrared* cameras. A bunch of websites mention infrared endoscopes, but I don't think the products are trustworthy. Here's [one][1], and here's [another one][2], both having a 5.5 mm diameter. While the “infrared” term is used in the titles of both products, I'm not sure that the sellers meant that those are infrared cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe you should consider changing your requirements, such as using [an ordinary infrared camera module][3] for Raspberry Pi and put it outside the water tank or in a custom-made waterproof case...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Borescope-infrared-camera-Ba7h0t-pipe-line_62274660083.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.3.5a2f96f3tH4lFC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-HD-5MP-Snake-camera-5_62088890426.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.66.5a2f96f3tH4lFC&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12015" RevisionGUID="04365d80-a6b7-48ca-a86e-4694f0b5c44a" CreationDate="2019-09-13T19:20:16.230" UserId="13542" Text="I'm looking to setup my home network with xfinity and am looking for a modem and a router to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for modems and routers that are compatible with xfinity that would provide as much initial security as possible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not want to use their recommended stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, any pointers as to what else I could do to protect my network as possible? Besides what was listed here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/215254/setting-up-a-secure-modem-router-with-isp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41549" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12015" RevisionGUID="04365d80-a6b7-48ca-a86e-4694f0b5c44a" CreationDate="2019-09-13T19:20:16.230" UserId="13542" Text="Recommendations for Modem/Router - Xfinity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41550" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12015" RevisionGUID="04365d80-a6b7-48ca-a86e-4694f0b5c44a" CreationDate="2019-09-13T19:20:16.230" UserId="13542" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12016" RevisionGUID="6ee0795b-f8a2-4b4e-8201-fd7e66caa09e" CreationDate="2019-09-13T20:14:20.057" UserId="13544" Text="For starters, make sure that if you get a third party modem/router you get an approved device since you'll be up a creek if you want Comcast to acknowledge that you have an Internet outage because of them. Their [support page][1] gives some tips on selecting an approved one. Supposedly there's an [Amazon page][2] that has a bunch of approved modems/routers as well, but I don't know how outdated it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally use the rented modem/router (I live in a rural area, so there are no other xfinity hotspots to leech off of when my monthly cap is used up) in bridge mode and use a Linux-based PC for my router/firewall. You can get a residential router and just use that, but odds are pretty good that when a new model comes out the firmware updates will stop coming, leaving it vulnerable to new security exploits. Vendors have also historically been pretty slow at creating and distributing firmware updates, while with some Linux distributions you can set up automatic/unattended updates. There is also at least one case of backdoored firmware, such as D-Link's DIR-620 router (casual Google search also shows up many similar cases of easily exploited base firmware).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There was a comment in that link you posted about WPA3 as well. If it requires hardware support, you will not have access to it when it finally is released and will be stuck with WPA2. Updating a custom router would only require purchasing a new wireless adapter that is compatible with WPA3 (again, if there are hardware requirements for it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do end up purchasing a router/modem combo you will want to go and disable things like WPS and UPnP port forwarding, and probably other quality of life &quot;enhancements&quot; since they're bad for security.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/list-of-approved-cable-modems&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/slp/comcast-approved-routers/dq38vqcyygyn5yb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="db9ce2b5-bfdb-4c54-a840-88358eda6a8e" CreationDate="2019-09-14T10:41:56.463" UserId="13539" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am deciding which parts to include in my PC, primarily aimed towards gaming. My last PC lasted 7 years so longevity is the key for this build.&#xD;&#xA;Obviously no one can know the future so I'm just looking for more experienced guesses.&#xD;&#xA;Right now the difference between the 9th generation i5,i7,i9 is measly. However, from GCSE computing science I know that programs have to be coded to use cores.&#xD;&#xA;So in future will more cores become more common? Or will the difference between six and eight cores remain negligible especially when in the context of VR. Also to clarify, will the i5-9600k's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-900k?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41572" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="db9ce2b5-bfdb-4c54-a840-88358eda6a8e" CreationDate="2019-09-14T10:41:56.463" UserId="13539" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body; edited title" Text="Will eight cores in a CPU become more relevant in the future for gaming and VR?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41576" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12020" RevisionGUID="a3af60fc-bc22-4d92-a385-1e8fc3d50190" CreationDate="2019-09-14T12:31:27.093" UserId="13548" Text="Looking for a powerful wifi extender (1200Mbps) that will encrypt my data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such an animal?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope you can help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41577" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12020" RevisionGUID="a3af60fc-bc22-4d92-a385-1e8fc3d50190" CreationDate="2019-09-14T12:31:27.093" UserId="13548" Text="Looking for an encrypted wifi extender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41578" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12020" RevisionGUID="a3af60fc-bc22-4d92-a385-1e8fc3d50190" CreationDate="2019-09-14T12:31:27.093" UserId="13548" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41579" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="c92e6832-8a64-474f-879d-e7afda0274d8" CreationDate="2019-09-14T19:28:48.333" UserId="13549" Text="It's unbelievably hard to find external 2,5&quot; 2-bay RAID enclosures, but apparently it's impossible to find such an enclosure with hdparm/udisksctl support. I just want to spin down and power off the drives in the enclosure from a Linux shell (e.g., udisksctl power-off -b /dev/sdb). I already tried ICY BOX IB-RD2253-U31, without success.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anybody aware of such an enclosure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41580" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="c92e6832-8a64-474f-879d-e7afda0274d8" CreationDate="2019-09-14T19:28:48.333" UserId="13549" Text="External 2,5&quot; 2-bay RAID USB3 Enclosure with hdparm/udisksctl power-off support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41581" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="c92e6832-8a64-474f-879d-e7afda0274d8" CreationDate="2019-09-14T19:28:48.333" UserId="13549" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41590" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="acd50649-8707-4756-bc7f-c09db33b796b" CreationDate="2019-09-15T06:00:50.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12024" RevisionGUID="0c4dcff0-3c40-460e-9bf4-91a8796696c4" CreationDate="2019-09-15T13:25:32.643" UserId="1873" Text="I second @user: use your provider's router/modem as a bridge and your own router behind that. Waaay less hassle and not using their hardware does give you anything honestly.&#xA;&#xA;If you are worried about eavesdropping: don't. Wether you use your ISPs modem or not won't change a thing. One thing which you could do is set up a site-wide VPN which is supported by all of the solutions listed below.&#xA;&#xA;As for devices: while setting up a router and firewall on a Linux box is a good way it is very technical and requires a lot of knowledge.&#xA;&#xA;Typical commercial devices are out because their security is substandard.&#xA;&#xA;That leaves a few options:&#xA;&#xA;- pfSense - a dedicated BSD-based system intended to work as a firewall. You can buy an appliance or install it on a spare PC.&#xA;- OpenWRT - a free Linux-based router operating system which can be installed on many commercial routers. You also lose warranty by installing it.&#xA;- MikroTik - dedicated routers with their own Linux-based OS (aptly called RouterOS), it works quite well and is easier then using a typical GNU/Linux, they are not expensive as well. In my local circles they're preferred over Cisco - similarly full featured but cheaper.&#xA;- Ubiquiti - high quality but a bit expensive routers and access points. Their main selling point is the ease of setup.&#xA;&#xA;All listed above are thought to be secure, as far as software bugs go. Personally I would choose between Ubiquiti (easier to set up, better Wi-Fi, expensive) and MikroTik (cheaper, hard to set up, worse Wi-Fi). OpenWRT is IMO not worth the hassle for the money saved and pfSense appliances comes with Wi-Fi (at least the official ones)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41594" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12024" RevisionGUID="fe05bff4-c9a4-4aab-9b6b-7d9d0a32adc7" CreationDate="2019-09-15T13:38:01.007" UserId="1873" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I second @user: use your provider's router/modem as a bridge and your own router behind that. Waaay less hassle and not using their hardware does not gain you anything honestly.&#xA;&#xA;If you are worried about eavesdropping: don't. Wether you use your ISPs modem or not won't change a thing. One thing which you could do is set up a site-wide VPN which is supported by all of the solutions listed below.&#xA;&#xA;As for devices: while setting up a router and firewall on a Linux box is a good way it is very technical and requires a lot of knowledge.&#xA;&#xA;Typical commercial devices are out because their security is substandard.&#xA;&#xA;That leaves a few options:&#xA;&#xA;- pfSense - a dedicated BSD-based system intended to work as a firewall. You can buy an appliance or install it on a spare PC.&#xA;- OpenWRT - a free Linux-based router operating system which can be installed on many commercial routers. You also lose warranty by installing it.&#xA;- MikroTik - dedicated routers with their own Linux-based OS (aptly called RouterOS), it works quite well and is easier then using a typical GNU/Linux, they are not expensive as well. In my local circles they're preferred over Cisco - similarly full featured but cheaper.&#xA;- Ubiquiti - high quality but a bit expensive routers and access points. Their main selling point is the ease of setup.&#xA;&#xA;All listed above are thought to be secure, as far as software bugs go. Personally I would choose between Ubiquiti (easier to set up, better Wi-Fi, expensive) and MikroTik (cheaper, hard to set up, worse Wi-Fi). OpenWRT is IMO not worth the hassle for the money saved and pfSense appliances comes with Wi-Fi (at least the official ones)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12013" RevisionGUID="d075c6f4-e33a-41a7-adfd-deb30c217b0d" CreationDate="2019-09-15T21:20:22.653" UserId="10648" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="&gt; Will the i5-9600K's relative performance decline in the next 4/5 years faster than the i9-9900K?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these CPUs will always be more than enough for general computing needs over the next 5 years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you look at some FPS [benchmarks][1] to compare the [i9-9900K][2] and [i5-9600K][3] you might see that the i9 has a small FPS advantage over the i5. That advantage really comes from the slightly higher clock speeds (5.0 Ghz vs 4.6 Ghz). The extra cores on the i9 can't really be utilized to increase FPS further, and it is unlikely that games will be *requiring* more than 6-8 cores in the next 5 years. VR is pretty much the same CPU workload as gaming but with a higher desired FPS, so everything said next about gaming applies to VR too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have a good, lasting CPU for gaming if you buy the i5-9600K. There are reasons to consider the i9 for use-cases other than gaming though!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why don't more cores help? Will they ever help?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In computer science, we use a phrase, *&quot;Divide and Conquer&quot;* to describe algorithms that can break up a large task into many independent tasks. Tasks like encoding videos, compressing files, updating thousands of database rows, etc. can be accomplished using a &quot;divide and conquer&quot; algorithm that breaks up the data into isolated sections and processes them in parallel on as many cores as possible. This is the sort of CPU workload where CPUs with lots of cores shine, and unfortunately games just don't fall under the criteria for &quot;divide and conquer&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Games and real-time simulation are the sort of program that requires gamestate A to be computed before starting gamestate B, and so on. This is accomplished with a loop, and every frame or update is an iteration of that loop. You may already know that loops execute on a single thread, which means only one core in the CPU is really &quot;in charge&quot; of the entire game. The maximum rate at which this loop can execute is the max speed of the game engine, and this is why higher clock speeds lead to higher FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are ways to break off some of the workload from the master thread though. For example, AI doesn't need to make decisions *every frame*; Resources like textures and models can be loaded in the background and used when they're ready. Even newer graphics APIs like Vulkan and DX12 allow the GPU to be commanded from multiple threads. These kinds of tasks can be offloaded to the extra cores, but they usually aren't algorithms that completely utilize a core (they sleep while waiting for files, network, etc.) Which means several threads spun up for side-jobs are able to share just a few extra cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you can usually gauge the next 4-5 years of gaming requirements by what the current/next generation of game consoles are using. The next XBox and Playstation are expected to have 8C/16T CPUs so you certainly won't need more than 8 cores to keep up with the next generation of games. But keep in mind the current generation of consoles had reserved a number of cores for the OS, and are now also capable of live-streaming, installing games, and other background tasks that require the CPU while gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13400/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-i7-9700k-i5-9600k-review&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134896/intel-core-i5-9600k-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11997" RevisionGUID="a3596d5c-cba7-45bf-b07a-7079bf2913a8" CreationDate="2019-09-15T22:17:54.657" UserId="10648" Comment="added 172 characters in body" Text="Routers and WiFi devices have to undergo [certification][1] to have the &quot;WiFi&quot; branding. Any router that does not have a 2.4 Ghz radio would not be backwards compatible with [IEEE 802.11 b/g/n][2] and may not qualify for the &quot;WiFi&quot; branding.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I have never seen a &quot;WiFi&quot; router with only a 5 Ghz radio. But you can disable the 2.4 Ghz radio in many routers though. It is possible that a router with only 802.11ac support can exist, but it may be hard to find a product like that using the &quot;WiFi&quot; brand as a search term.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now, I would not recommend seeking out a product that explicitly avoids having a 2.4 Ghz radio. It wouldn't be guaranteed to work with other WiFi devices unless it was WiFi certified too. Some day the WiFi Alliance may decide to deprecate the 2.4 Ghz standards and this answer may no longer be correct.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.wi-fi.org/certification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12032" RevisionGUID="552db7d5-1749-434d-91ca-990540885398" CreationDate="2019-09-16T20:11:42.370" UserId="1873" Text="I'm not sure about their software, but being a company specialising in this presumably QNAP has good software support.&#xA;&#xA;One device which I presume will meet your expectations is the [TR-002](https://www.qnap.com/en/product/tr-002/specs/hardware) which has two 2.5&quot; bays. They even post a test result using 2 x Samsung 850 Pro. Should you be interested there is also [a four drive version](https://www.qnap.com/en/product/tr-004).&#xA;&#xA;**I don't have experience with these devices nor does a quick Google search show anything.** This answer is based on the assumption that QNAP being who they are offers the required software features." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12036" RevisionGUID="fdc1b545-cb07-4743-8f57-6654526e5218" CreationDate="2019-09-17T12:02:26.433" UserId="13571" Text="I am searching the internet for a iPod Shuffle like device to listen Deezer music (iPod Shuffle was *offline* device). &#xD;&#xA;I would like to somehow download or use device within Wifi or Bluetooth range. &#xD;&#xA;It needs to use headphones for listening.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Deezer is limited to specific devices. However I would like to have look and feel experience of iPod Shuffle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any solution available or similar look&amp;feel to iPod Shuffle?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41633" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12036" RevisionGUID="fdc1b545-cb07-4743-8f57-6654526e5218" CreationDate="2019-09-17T12:02:26.433" UserId="13571" Text="iPod Shuffle like device for Deezer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41634" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12036" RevisionGUID="fdc1b545-cb07-4743-8f57-6654526e5218" CreationDate="2019-09-17T12:02:26.433" UserId="13571" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12038" RevisionGUID="4b1b41f3-c46d-46fe-9f75-a016b0881884" CreationDate="2019-09-17T19:30:41.463" UserId="13574" Text="I'm looking into buying an Asus pg65uq when it's available, but I noticed something strange - it claims to support HDR10 while at the same time only supporting 8bit color. Doesn't those two contradict each other? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41640" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12038" RevisionGUID="4b1b41f3-c46d-46fe-9f75-a016b0881884" CreationDate="2019-09-17T19:30:41.463" UserId="13574" Text="8bit panels and hdr" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41641" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12038" RevisionGUID="4b1b41f3-c46d-46fe-9f75-a016b0881884" CreationDate="2019-09-17T19:30:41.463" UserId="13574" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12039" RevisionGUID="62850b0f-030a-458a-8a65-f82713cb528f" CreationDate="2019-09-17T20:13:44.470" UserId="10648" Text="An 8-bit display can use [FRC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate_control) to expand its perceived color range. It essentially dithers a pixel between two colors in time rather than with neighboring pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many monitors do this, in fact a lot of displays that support &quot;16.7 Million Colors&quot; (24-bit Color) are actually 6-bit panels using FRC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are trying to decide between monitors, I wouldn't let this detail become a deciding factor. You are very likely looking at a monitor right now that uses FRC and you may not have noticed. A true 10-bit panel would be a lot more expensive in this case (or it is a TV panel), and it too could use FRC to achieve higher bit depth than its physical implementation." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12039" RevisionGUID="50183871-179c-4a7f-a4eb-9058185d0022" CreationDate="2019-09-17T20:20:54.737" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 52 characters in body" Text="An 8-bit display can use [FRC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate_control) to expand its perceived color range. It essentially dithers a pixel between two colors in time rather than with neighboring pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many monitors do this, in fact a lot of displays that support &quot;16.7 Million Colors&quot; (24-bit Color) are actually 6-bit panels using FRC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are trying to decide between monitors, I wouldn't let this detail become a deciding factor. You are very likely looking at a monitor right now that uses FRC and you may not have noticed. It would be hard for most people to notice the quality improvement of a true 10-bit panel *without* FRC vs 8-bit with FRC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12043" RevisionGUID="bcaf6109-7a0c-4eae-94b3-f8197ce24df1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T11:56:19.227" UserId="7885" Text="I am writing a program that needs to take (HD) photos from a camera connected to a computer. That camera also needs an integrated flash light. But I don't really know what I need to look for - when I search for something like &quot;*camera with flash light usb*&quot; I just find some web cams, not what I am looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know any good such camera, or at least what I need to search for online?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: It does not have to be connected via USB, that was just my first guess. I am open for other types of PC interfaces/cables as well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12043" RevisionGUID="bcaf6109-7a0c-4eae-94b3-f8197ce24df1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T11:56:19.227" UserId="7885" Text="Need a cam for photos with with flash light for PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12043" RevisionGUID="bcaf6109-7a0c-4eae-94b3-f8197ce24df1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T11:56:19.227" UserId="7885" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12045" RevisionGUID="f65c08c8-e96c-4e80-b5af-1862cb997c37" CreationDate="2019-09-18T13:21:02.097" UserId="13580" Text="By 'Camera with flash light', do you mean a webcam with some kind of lighting?  If so, I recommend the Razer KIYO.     https://www.razer.com/ca-en/gaming-broadcaster/razer-kiyo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41683" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="4e56df20-61a0-4c62-ba16-0e3631ca7810" CreationDate="2019-09-19T01:00:40.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41689" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12049" RevisionGUID="9dd7e90f-1b1e-4a81-b952-c0c382aad9e8" CreationDate="2019-09-19T08:14:50.890" UserId="5995" Text="While I am a software engineer, I do not like noisy keyboards and I find the latest Apple Magic Keyboard very prone to typos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do use an iMac and an MacBook so I am looking to find a keyboard that does is very close to to that layout (likely Apple oriented due to the ctrl-opt-cmd arangement) that does not have this issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I effectively love the Magic Trackpad, so it would be prefered if the new keyboard would nicely completent the trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any chance of finding one or I have to hope apply will fix the butterfly-effect at some point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: while the older non-butterfly keyboard still produce noises, it is apparently not affected by the same typo-rate, I guess is more of 1/3 of what I do on the new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yeah: I do appreciate **low and silent profiles**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41690" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12049" RevisionGUID="9dd7e90f-1b1e-4a81-b952-c0c382aad9e8" CreationDate="2019-09-19T08:14:50.890" UserId="5995" Text="Alternative to the unreliable Apple Magic keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41691" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12049" RevisionGUID="9dd7e90f-1b1e-4a81-b952-c0c382aad9e8" CreationDate="2019-09-19T08:14:50.890" UserId="5995" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12050" RevisionGUID="efb1227d-61d5-413e-9f90-49a2b3039232" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:31:41.860" UserId="13385" Text="I want to add wireless charging to my USB-C phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found many 5 watt Qi charging receivers online, like [these][1], but no faster ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5 watt is way too slow compared to my usual wired fast charging! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question:** Where can I buy a 10 watt (2 amp) USB-C wireless charging receiver for my phone? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.banggood.com/buy/wireless-charging-receiver.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41694" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12050" RevisionGUID="efb1227d-61d5-413e-9f90-49a2b3039232" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:31:41.860" UserId="13385" Text="10 watt wireless charging receiver for phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41695" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12050" RevisionGUID="efb1227d-61d5-413e-9f90-49a2b3039232" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:31:41.860" UserId="13385" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12051" RevisionGUID="1e78d23c-c14c-4fe2-b227-3d87f1902f39" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:56:45.850" UserId="951" Text="I'm looking for an upgrade from my i5 6600.&#xD;&#xA;Workload - ML prototyping in Keras and heavy IO, compression etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering Ryzen 9 3900X + MSI X570-A PRO. What architectures in this price area (around 1000$) would you recommend, having in mind mostly multicore perforformance per $?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12051" RevisionGUID="1e78d23c-c14c-4fe2-b227-3d87f1902f39" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:56:45.850" UserId="951" Text="CPU for Machine Learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12051" RevisionGUID="1e78d23c-c14c-4fe2-b227-3d87f1902f39" CreationDate="2019-09-19T10:56:45.850" UserId="951" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="df3bd834-4744-4a17-b90a-200743f60be1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T12:15:40.613" UserId="13589" Text="I'm far from a tech savvy, in fact im a programmer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish to create a vending machine using currenza c2 b6m for coin reading, and connect it to an android tablet for people to interact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The currenza has MDB connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have failed to find any hardware to connect a vending machine to an android operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does such a thing exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="df3bd834-4744-4a17-b90a-200743f60be1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T12:15:40.613" UserId="13589" Text="connect vending machine to android operating system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="df3bd834-4744-4a17-b90a-200743f60be1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T12:15:40.613" UserId="13589" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41708" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="a3a58fd9-b050-41b7-a914-10c6ad1edffa" CreationDate="2019-09-19T15:03:00.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41712" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="56fae770-5042-4e58-918a-487fb4141b9d" CreationDate="2019-09-19T20:39:40.557" UserId="8" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12057" RevisionGUID="46ebd511-ce6c-43f2-b7b8-19300dc186d7" CreationDate="2019-09-19T23:17:13.097" UserId="1873" Text="Two assumptions first:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- by _architecture_ you actually mean _platform_. ARM is not up to standard with performance yet and Power9 seems over budget for you&#xD;&#xA;- your 1000$ budget is for CPU and motherboard (if it is just for the CPU please comment and I will adjust my answer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the current market and in your budget you will likely not be able to get a better CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen 9 3950X is supposed to come out soon but it is supposed to be 50% more expensive by MSRPs from the launch event. Counting by retail prices in my country (Poland) this will put the X570-A PRO + 3950X at around 1150 USD. Of course the price might be different in different countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to invest that money in the overall build quality, primarily the motherboard and cooling, and try to eke out more performance but the returns here are minimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, if you are unable to stretch your budget or wait for the 3950X, I would spend maybe 50$ on a bit better motherboard and keep the rest for the next GPU upgrade." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12057" RevisionGUID="0a67784a-e9e8-41cc-b5e3-6b316dc9c81e" CreationDate="2019-09-20T08:46:51.253" UserId="1873" Comment="added 182 characters in body" Text="Two assumptions first:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- by _architecture_ you actually mean _platform_. ARM is not up to standard with performance yet and Power9 seems over budget for you&#xD;&#xA;- your 1000$ budget is for CPU and motherboard (if it is just for the CPU please comment and I will adjust my answer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the current market and in your budget you will likely not be able to get a better CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen 9 3950X is supposed to come out soon but it is supposed to be 50% more expensive by MSRPs from the launch event. Counting by retail prices in my country (Poland) this will put the X570-A PRO + 3950X at around 1150 USD. Of course the price might be different in different countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to invest that money in the overall build quality, primarily the motherboard and cooling, and try to eke out more performance but the returns here are minimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, if you are unable to stretch your budget or wait for the 3950X, I would spend maybe 50$ on a bit better motherboard and keep the rest for the next GPU upgrade.&#xA;&#xA;**Edit:** I don't know much about the data transfer patterns in ML vs games, but ML uses much more memory so it might benefit greatly from PCIe 4.0 once next-gen GPUs implement it " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41729" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12015" RevisionGUID="b4cdb489-326f-4ed6-9a2b-0e23733a9193" CreationDate="2019-09-20T15:04:15.440" UserId="203" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;timuzhti&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41734" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12010" RevisionGUID="91e31d10-2284-461b-b725-2c747e31e921" CreationDate="2019-09-20T15:10:30.950" UserId="203" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;timuzhti&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41735" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12038" RevisionGUID="f786a10c-0fe0-435a-8b85-e1cdf90e460e" CreationDate="2019-09-20T15:10:50.110" UserId="203" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;timuzhti&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41740" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="cabf1d09-51c0-4a63-86ca-d0bee6793df6" CreationDate="2019-09-20T18:56:16.630" UserId="1873" Comment="expand MDB" Text="I'm far from a tech savvy, in fact im a programmer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish to create a vending machine using currenza c2 b6m for coin reading, and connect it to an android tablet for people to interact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The currenza has Multi-Drop Bus connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have failed to find any hardware to connect a vending machine to an android operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;does such a thing exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41741" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="cabf1d09-51c0-4a63-86ca-d0bee6793df6" CreationDate="2019-09-20T18:56:16.630" Comment="Proposed by 1873 approved by 203, 8 edit id of 926" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41757" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12062" RevisionGUID="6cfd251c-d478-41bf-a306-3a68b860351d" CreationDate="2019-09-21T07:58:22.920" UserId="1873" Text="While this is a PC keyboard, the internet tells me that the ctrl-opt-cmd (or ctrl-super-alt) keys can be remapped in MacOS.&#xA;&#xA;I recommend the [A4-Tech KV300-H](http://a4tech.com/product.aspx?id=82). It is:&#xA; &#xA; - slim &#xA; - very soft to touch after a month or two of use  - I barely touch the keys before they register&#xA; - ridiculously stable - metal body with rubber feet - to move it you have to lift it, it won't slide even if it's your intention to do so&#xA; - cheap enough (around 20 USD in Poland)  that you won't be bothered if it's not good&#xA;- reliable - I'm a software developer too and one of these is still with me after four years and had no issues and that's the one at work&#xA; - as an added bonus it has a built in USB hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12062" RevisionGUID="1fa53bfb-9249-4626-a827-90a239e4509f" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:05:06.213" UserId="1873" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="While this is a PC keyboard, the internet tells me that the ctrl-opt-cmd (or ctrl-super-alt) keys can be remapped in MacOS.&#xA;&#xA;I recommend the [A4-Tech KV300-H](http://a4tech.com/product.aspx?id=82). It is:&#xA; &#xA; - slim &#xA; - very soft to touch after a month or two of use  - I barely touch the keys before they register&#xA; - ridiculously stable - metal body with rubber feet - to move it you have to lift it, it won't slide even if it's your intention to do so&#xA; - cheap enough (around 20 USD in Poland)  that you can treat it as temporary to tide you over&#xA; - reliable: I'm a software developer too and one of these is still with me after four years and had no issues and that's the one at work&#xA; - as an added bonus it has a built in USB hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41759" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="da751fac-a373-41c9-8702-880e99f779c4" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:11:01.530" UserId="203" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:203,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;timuzhti&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="41760" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12062" RevisionGUID="f9ee7095-c1da-44c7-82c6-c8777437c239" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:11:14.407" UserId="1873" Comment="added 69 characters in body; added 1 character in body" Text="While this is a PC keyboard, the internet tells me that the ctrl-opt-cmd (or ctrl-super-alt) keys can be remapped in MacOS.&#xA;&#xA;I recommend the [A4-Tech KV300-H](http://a4tech.com/product.aspx?id=82). It is:&#xA; &#xA; - slim &#xA; - very soft to touch after a month or two of use  - I barely touch the keys before they register&#xA; - ridiculously stable - metal body with rubber feet - to move it you have to lift it, it won't slide even if it's your intention to do so&#xA; - cheap enough (around 20 USD in Poland)  that you can treat it as temporary to tide you over&#xA; - reliable: I'm a software developer too and one of these is still with me after four years and had no issues and that's the one at work&#xA; - as an added bonus it has a built in USB hub&#xA;&#xA;But:&#xA;&#xA;- it has no media keys&#xA;- backslash is moved as compared to mac" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="8d644486-b727-49f9-8163-c1b1fd53955a" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:25:25.270" UserId="203" Comment="add tag, clarify" Text="The Currenza C2 is a vending machine coin reader that uses a multidrop bus (MDB) interface. I wish to create a vending machine using the Currenza C2 B6M for coin reading, and connect it to an Android tablet as the interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find the hardware required to connect a vending machine to an Android device. Does such a thing exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41762" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="8d644486-b727-49f9-8163-c1b1fd53955a" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:25:25.270" UserId="203" Comment="add tag, clarify" Text="Currenza C2 coin reader MDB adapter for Android device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41763" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="8d644486-b727-49f9-8163-c1b1fd53955a" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:25:25.270" UserId="203" Comment="add tag, clarify" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12064" RevisionGUID="20e97b03-fea3-4336-932a-0dd2962a095b" CreationDate="2019-09-21T16:01:33.353" UserId="13599" Text="Is there any?  &#xA;Quite hard to search on google and shopping sites IMO.  &#xA;&#xA;I need this tablet to have an OLED screen for maximum contrast quality.  &#xA;&#xA;It needs to have an HDMI-IN connection, so I can plug my desktop video output on it and use it temporarily as a monitor.&#xA;&#xA;Obs.: it could be a notebook with the same requirements, just that i prefer a tablet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41768" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12064" RevisionGUID="20e97b03-fea3-4336-932a-0dd2962a095b" CreationDate="2019-09-21T16:01:33.353" UserId="13599" Text="Tablet OLED with HDMI-INPUT?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41769" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12064" RevisionGUID="20e97b03-fea3-4336-932a-0dd2962a095b" CreationDate="2019-09-21T16:01:33.353" UserId="13599" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41788" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="ab0098e4-074c-4885-99ed-e8b1d5d30295" CreationDate="2019-09-22T14:01:20.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41794" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12057" RevisionGUID="ee56ca9f-4231-452c-9aca-2308aeb1d4eb" CreationDate="2019-09-22T20:44:00.827" UserId="1873" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="Two assumptions first:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- by _architecture_ you actually mean _platform_. ARM is not up to standard with performance yet and Power9 seems over budget for you&#xD;&#xA;- your 1000$ budget is for CPU and motherboard (if it is just for the CPU please comment and I will adjust my answer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the current market and in your budget you will likely not be able to get a better CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen 9 3950X is supposed to come out soon but it is supposed to be 50% more expensive by MSRPs from the launch event. Counting by retail prices in my country (Poland) this will put the X570-A PRO + 3950X at around 1150 USD. Of course the price might be different in different countries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to invest that money in the overall build quality, primarily the motherboard and cooling, and try to eke out more performance but the returns here are minimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Personally, if you are unable to stretch your budget or wait for the 3950X, I would spend maybe 50$ on a bit better motherboard and keep the rest for the next GPU upgrade.&#xA;&#xA;**Edit:** I don't know much about the data transfer patterns in ML vs games, but ML uses much more memory so it might benefit greatly from PCIe 4.0 once next-gen GPUs implement it &#xA;&#xA;**Edit 2:** new release from AMD states that we are two months off from the 3950X, not a week or two as originally planned" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12068" RevisionGUID="c9456299-88dc-4175-b328-9209669f96d4" CreationDate="2019-09-22T21:05:49.547" UserId="13607" Text="I've been working on a number of electronics projects lately, and while I have a 'scope, it's fairly poor to use (it's one of those pocket ones, and I have complaints about its usability).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know of any PC-connected oscilloscopes that use open-source software? There's the Analog Discovery 2, and the OpenScopeMZ, but those both use either Waveforms (which is closed-source, though free) or Waveforms Online (or whatever) which is allegedly open-source, but that doesn't count since it can't be completely run locally (as far as I know).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;WFO supposedly can run offline, but that's only the case as long as I don't close my browser or reboot for a kernel update. If it can be downloaded as a standalong webpage to run offline, that's a different story.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, please let me know what systems are both good quality and have an application that works offline and is open-source. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've moved the question over here from regular SE since I've been told it fits better. I still don't have access to tags that fit the question better, though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41796" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12068" RevisionGUID="c9456299-88dc-4175-b328-9209669f96d4" CreationDate="2019-09-22T21:05:49.547" UserId="13607" Text="Oscilloscopes with open-source software options" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41797" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12068" RevisionGUID="c9456299-88dc-4175-b328-9209669f96d4" CreationDate="2019-09-22T21:05:49.547" UserId="13607" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41798" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12069" RevisionGUID="070bc26a-21ca-4ff4-8d5b-36c152729092" CreationDate="2019-09-23T03:02:26.450" UserId="10459" Text="I'm wondering whether such a device exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following shows what I'm asking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;    |          |            |         +&lt;----&gt; USB #1&#xD;&#xA;    | Computer +&lt;----------&gt;+ USB Hub +&lt;---------&gt; USB #2&#xD;&#xA;    |          |  Ethernet  |         +&lt;-----------------&gt; USB #2&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the computer would connect via Ethernet to a device which &quot;transforms&quot; the TCP or UDP packets in USB signals. The advantage would be that we'd have full speed for all the USB's on a 10Gb network." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41799" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12069" RevisionGUID="070bc26a-21ca-4ff4-8d5b-36c152729092" CreationDate="2019-09-23T03:02:26.450" UserId="10459" Text="Are there USB hubs that connect to an Ethernet port?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41800" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12069" RevisionGUID="070bc26a-21ca-4ff4-8d5b-36c152729092" CreationDate="2019-09-23T03:02:26.450" UserId="10459" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12070" RevisionGUID="8b5edf78-80b3-4551-abff-d9f245b582d3" CreationDate="2019-09-23T03:39:53.857" UserId="13421" Text="Not sure if [this device][1] is exactly what you need: &quot;Anker 3-Port USB 3.0 HUB with 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Converter (3 USB 3.0 Ports, A RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Port, Support Windows XP, Vista, Win7/8 [32/64 bit], Mac OS 10.6 and Above, Linux)&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41802" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12069" RevisionGUID="20d22413-4636-474b-841f-444ea208f2f9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T05:33:29.567" UserId="10459" Comment="Fixed the USB #2 which was supposed to be 3 and added a line to make it clearer." Text="I'm wondering whether such a device exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following shows what I'm asking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;    |          |            |         +&lt;----&gt; USB #1&#xD;&#xA;    | Computer +&lt;----------&gt;+ USB Hub +&lt;---------&gt; USB #2&#xD;&#xA;    |          |  Ethernet  |         +&lt;-----------------&gt; USB #3&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the computer would connect via Ethernet to a device which &quot;transforms&quot; the TCP or UDP packets in USB signals. The advantage would be that we'd have full speed for all the USB's on a 10Gb network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB #1/2/3 is where I'd connect my mouse, keyboard, stick drive, printer, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41803" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="33604897-f05c-4667-9764-775ecdf54a05" CreationDate="2019-09-23T08:01:40.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12071" RevisionGUID="508ca4d4-e107-4fd7-85fb-e4e2878b393d" CreationDate="2019-09-23T08:17:55.837" UserId="13609" Text="I tried to search in every website but still cannot find it.&#xD;&#xA;I have a machine that is mounting a product that has 3 serial that is automatic pulling the product to the other machine. Is there a barcode scanner that can scan 3 serial at the same time or sequentially scanning that 3 serial? any brand is okay but if there is honeywell that will be much appreciated and if it can be mount to the machine. thank you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12071" RevisionGUID="508ca4d4-e107-4fd7-85fb-e4e2878b393d" CreationDate="2019-09-23T08:17:55.837" UserId="13609" Text="Barcode Scanner with Triple Scan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12071" RevisionGUID="508ca4d4-e107-4fd7-85fb-e4e2878b393d" CreationDate="2019-09-23T08:17:55.837" UserId="13609" Text="&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="3d8f5761-3c74-4c89-864f-ed9481059ee6" CreationDate="2019-09-23T09:28:25.787" UserId="5758" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I have got a display with an integrated USB type C hub. The keyboard and mouse are plugged into the monitor and the display is interconnected via USB type C to provide video signal, power and the USB connection itself of course.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I have a MacBook Pro attached to it. I want to add a mini-PC to the setup. It does the same thing. The USB cord gets plugged into it and the keyboard, mouse and display are connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I want to &quot;hide&quot; the mini-PC in my desk and that's why it's not very practical that I need to unplug the USB c cable every time I want to use the other PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there some sort of Y cable or KVM switch device so that I can leave both computers plugged in simultaneously? Preferably with a switch so that even both of them can run while I only need to change the source with a simple &quot;press&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: the cable has USB type C on both ends.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1T6xr.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41808" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="3d8f5761-3c74-4c89-864f-ed9481059ee6" CreationDate="2019-09-23T09:28:25.787" UserId="5758" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="USB Type C Y-cable or KVM Switch to connect two sources to a HUB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41809" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8957" RevisionGUID="3d8f5761-3c74-4c89-864f-ed9481059ee6" CreationDate="2019-09-23T09:28:25.787" UserId="5758" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="cf2cb23a-b99c-4c15-b707-f11927d5c1c9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T12:52:28.983" UserId="13610" Text="I'm looking for a switch with at least 12-16 ports, Gigabit that supports Power over Ethernet on at least 4 of it's ports that can be rack-mounted (19&quot;) and it ideally is fanless or has very low noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I found so far is the &quot;Cisco Catalyst C2960L-16PS-LL&quot; but it is rather expensive, also in my area I have either wait 4 weeks on it or pay 150 USD more to get it in two days. Pro: it is fanless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I also found the Unifi 16‑150W - it has 1 fan but most people tell that the fans never go on even with 4-6 PoE devices attached. Only in rare occasions the fans turn on to cool the unit down a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41812" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="cf2cb23a-b99c-4c15-b707-f11927d5c1c9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T12:52:28.983" UserId="13610" Text="16-port 19&quot; rackmount PoE Switch with low noise" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41813" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="cf2cb23a-b99c-4c15-b707-f11927d5c1c9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T12:52:28.983" UserId="13610" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;poe&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12074" RevisionGUID="cc839110-f51e-4269-a81f-aa01dfa71aec" CreationDate="2019-09-23T15:08:07.767" UserId="9333" Text="There are numerous USB headsets to choose from, but the following criteria are not obvious on the first glance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Must be **compatible with Ubuntu Linux**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Sound quality/enhancement optimal for online conferencing** i.e. human voice transmission (remote sites can still have effects which at least should not be emphasized by the device. If it could in some intelligent way compensate like dump glitch unpleasant sounds that would be really awesome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You should be able to wear it for many hours a day if the situation requires it, that is, the design must be at least partly optimized for **ergonomics**. Specifically, not too heavy and with soft padding. Who knows, maybe somebody has designed padding with antibacterial anti-transpiration capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ***[Active][1]* Noise cancellation** is not a requirement as long the assumption is valid that it will be a significant price add-on factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Keywords &quot;professional call center&quot; might admittedly way too broad criteria which means here in first place a requirement for good material quality and device durability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_noise_control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41818" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12074" RevisionGUID="cc839110-f51e-4269-a81f-aa01dfa71aec" CreationDate="2019-09-23T15:08:07.767" UserId="9333" Text="Which (smart) professional call center USB headset to use with Ubuntu Linux for online conferencing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41819" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12074" RevisionGUID="cc839110-f51e-4269-a81f-aa01dfa71aec" CreationDate="2019-09-23T15:08:07.767" UserId="9333" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41820" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12074" RevisionGUID="88e384c4-42d4-43ba-8211-b82fea6fbc25" CreationDate="2019-09-23T15:13:18.677" UserId="9333" Comment="added 73 characters in body" Text="There are numerous USB headsets to choose from, but the following criteria are not obvious on the first glance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Must be **compatible with Ubuntu Linux**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Sound quality/enhancement optimal for online conferencing** i.e. human voice transmission (remote sites can still have effects which at least should not be emphasized by the device. If it could in some intelligent way compensate like dump glitch unpleasant sounds that would be really awesome)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You should be able to wear it for many hours a day if the situation requires it, that is, the design must be at least partly optimized for **ergonomics**. Specifically, not too heavy and with soft padding. Who knows, maybe somebody has designed padding with antibacterial anti-transpiration capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ***[Active][1]* noise cancellation** in the speakers is not a requirement as long the assumption is valid that it will be a significant price add-on factor. **Noise cancellation microphone** would be great though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Keywords &quot;**professional call center**&quot; might admittedly way too broad criteria which means here in first place a requirement for good material quality and device durability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Wireless** connection is not a must have. But wireless via Bluetooth is possibly not acceptable if could influence the quality of communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_noise_control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41825" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12075" RevisionGUID="82767aab-ee3a-4436-9864-3106c1a06ccf" CreationDate="2019-09-23T20:28:07.323" UserId="1873" Text="If you are using Linux there is something called [USB over IP](http://www.linux-magazine.com/Issues/2018/208/Tutorial-USB-IP). There are is even a [tutorial on setting it up on Raspberry Pi](https://derushadigital.com/other%20projects/2019/02/19/RPi-USBIP-ZWave.html). So grab a 30$ single board computer and you are done. There was some Windows effort on this but it seems dead now.&#xA;&#xA;Otherwise if the distance is not that big and your computer (a notebook presumably) supports it I would look into USB-C docking stations. Some of them are even integrated into displays. Or just a high-performance USB hub. Once I have seen an (expensive) USB 3.0 extender with active devices on both and which used about 30 meters of fiber." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12076" RevisionGUID="2f7eb42b-14b6-4941-8f20-ba1a467a9f7c" CreationDate="2019-09-23T20:34:35.267" UserId="1873" Text="Have a look at the [list of scopes supported by libsigrok](https://sigrok.org/wiki/Supported_hardware#Oscilloscopes) - it is a fully open-source, GPL licensed library for working with various kinds of EE measurement tools.&#xA;&#xA;Outside of that PicoScope has - as far as internet says - a great SDK but it's closed source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12077" RevisionGUID="4e598a27-c8b7-4224-9599-a777354e79b0" CreationDate="2019-09-23T20:41:37.180" UserId="1873" Text="What you are looking for is either a direct Multi-Drop to USB converter or a Multi-Drop to RS232 converter which can then be converted to USB. As far as I know Android exposes the serial port API. There are many such devices, one example would be [this.][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://blog.abrantix.com/webshop/product/mdb-converter-3/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="4853602b-dec9-4e13-aed1-c05bae8d91f9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T21:31:03.633" UserId="13613" Text="I am looking for some smart glasses to do some college project but most of them are way too costly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are my requirements, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) it should have a colored display.&#xD;&#xA;    2) bluetooth/wifi connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    3) camera &#xD;&#xA;    4) some way to record input, either via touch gestures or motion gestures.&#xD;&#xA;    5) some memory (2gb, or 4gb). (Completely optional feature). &#xD;&#xA;    5) battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am going to do is, connect the smart glass with some device, either pc or smart phone where all the processing will take place, and use smart glasses as input/output device. The only role of smart glass is to get input and display output. I don't need some standalone device as I am always going to connect it with some device. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41829" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="4853602b-dec9-4e13-aed1-c05bae8d91f9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T21:31:03.633" UserId="13613" Text="Are there any budget programmable smart glasses for DIY projects?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41830" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="4853602b-dec9-4e13-aed1-c05bae8d91f9" CreationDate="2019-09-23T21:31:03.633" UserId="13613" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41831" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="ee7dbf57-421f-49cb-9652-7449cd9ea267" CreationDate="2019-09-23T21:36:24.673" UserId="13613" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some smart glasses to do some college project but most of them are way too costly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are my requirements, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1) it should have a colored display.&#xD;&#xA;    2) bluetooth/wifi connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    3) camera &#xD;&#xA;    4) some way to record input, either via touch gestures or motion gestures.&#xD;&#xA;    5) some memory (2gb, or 4gb). (Completely optional feature). &#xD;&#xA;    5) battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am going to do is, connect the smart glass with some device, either pc or smart phone where all the processing will take place, and use smart glasses as input/output device. The only role of smart glass is to get input and display output. I don't need some standalone device as I am always going to connect it with some device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking for bulky headset, just small device which can fit on glasses would be great. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41832" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="45c88f2c-f9b8-465e-991b-f7c474fdd49a" CreationDate="2019-09-23T22:00:54.233" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 24 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some smart glasses to do some college project but most of them are way too costly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are my requirements, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. it should have a colored display.&#xD;&#xA;2. bluetooth/wifi connectivity&#xD;&#xA;3. camera &#xD;&#xA;4. some way to record input, either via touch gestures or motion gestures.&#xD;&#xA;5. some memory (2gb, or 4gb). (Completely optional feature). &#xD;&#xA;6. battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am going to do is, connect the smart glass with some device, either pc or smart phone where all the processing will take place, and use smart glasses as input/output device. The only role of smart glass is to get input and display output. I don't need some standalone device as I am always going to connect it with some device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking for bulky headset, just small device which can fit on glasses would be great. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41841" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12069" RevisionGUID="615306d9-b326-4f81-a48b-eeeb1255431a" CreationDate="2019-09-24T00:00:16.913" UserId="10459" Comment="Added my list of USB devices." Text="I'm wondering whether such a device exists.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following shows what I'm asking about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;    |          |            |         +&lt;----&gt; USB #1&#xD;&#xA;    | Computer +&lt;----------&gt;+ USB Hub +&lt;---------&gt; USB #2&#xD;&#xA;    |          |  Ethernet  |         +&lt;-----------------&gt; USB #3&#xD;&#xA;    +----------+            +---------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the computer would connect via Ethernet to a device which &quot;transforms&quot; the TCP or UDP packets in USB signals. The advantage would be that we'd have full speed for all the USB's on a 10Gb network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB #1/2/3 is where I'd connect my mouse, keyboard, stick drive, printer, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my complete list of devices at the moment:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse 1 (middle mouse button)&#xD;&#xA;* Mouse 2 (wheel)&#xD;&#xA;* Printer&#xD;&#xA;* Scanner&#xD;&#xA;* Audio Device&#xD;&#xA;* Phone (data transfers for video/pictures)&#xD;&#xA;* USB Stick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have a need for USB Power to recharge the phone, although that's not mandatory. My server has only 4 ports on the back. There is one which is internal. And also it has two for the front panel, but it is on a head which is not compatible with the case cable connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One reason I need more ports now is that I do not have PS/2 connectors on this new server. My old one used the keyboard/mouse on its PS/2 connectors. Miscalculation on my part, although I did not expect the front panel connection issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41842" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12064" RevisionGUID="53708a8e-c020-4f31-9835-a0c7b363c8b8" CreationDate="2019-09-24T00:46:59.147" UserId="13599" Comment="added 100 characters in body" Text="Is there any?  &#xA;Quite hard to search on google and shopping sites IMO.  &#xA;&#xA;I need this tablet to have an OLED screen for maximum contrast quality.  &#xA;&#xA;It needs to have an HDMI-IN connection, so I can plug my desktop video output on it and use it temporarily as a monitor.&#xA;&#xA;The price also matters as I'm ok with 1080p and  tablet size screen (even refurbished could work).&#xA;&#xA;Obs.: it could be a notebook with the same requirements, just that i prefer a tablet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12080" RevisionGUID="5b6d952f-9e20-4d26-9548-b293e0725597" CreationDate="2019-09-24T10:01:02.623" UserId="13616" Text="You can take a look at Saleae:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.saleae.com/&#xD;&#xA;- https://github.com/saleae&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Their equipment is relatively expensive, but very good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I'm not affiliated with them in any way, to be clear.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12083" RevisionGUID="47512092-671a-488d-bb39-21bca80265d4" CreationDate="2019-09-24T11:11:21.253" UserId="12769" Text="I'm building an RFID scanning apparatus, which is going to be attached to a potato harvester, and I'm trying to find a suitable antenna. Because of where said antenna is going to be placed on the harvester, it will have to be extremely rugged. The word _rugged_ in this context means:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It can withstand being bashed against various surfaces: the ground, wooden boxes, hedgerows, etc. (I thought perhaps a &quot;whip&quot; kind of antenna, which could bend rather than break under pressure, might be suitable, but I don't know where to find one.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - It is resistant to damage from wind and rain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41852" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12083" RevisionGUID="47512092-671a-488d-bb39-21bca80265d4" CreationDate="2019-09-24T11:11:21.253" UserId="12769" Text="Bendable UHF Whip Antenna for RFID Scanner" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41853" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12083" RevisionGUID="47512092-671a-488d-bb39-21bca80265d4" CreationDate="2019-09-24T11:11:21.253" UserId="12769" Text="&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12089" RevisionGUID="eea882c1-efd2-4f68-a5ae-ca417e7573ab" CreationDate="2019-09-24T20:55:55.280" UserId="6407" Text="I originally asked this in a Facebook group for the Raspberry Pi, and on the Raspberry Pi StackExchange, but they keep latching onto the &quot;standard&quot; method of making a &quot;RAM drive&quot; *inside of the operating system*.  That's not what I'm looking for.  &#xD;&#xA;I don't trust a solution that needs to thrash the card a lot before it figures out that it shouldn't thrash the card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So: **Is there a hardware device that plugs into a standard microSD slot and works like a standard microSD card, but reverts to a captured image of itself when it loses power?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Similar to this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/11220/6407), except that my system will be inaccessible.  So I can't remove the card, re-image it elsewhere, and re-insert.  The card itself has to do that automatically.  (or whatever it is that connects to the card slot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of functionality alone, you might look at the Immutable flag in VirtualBox.  It relies on VB's &quot;snapshot&quot; functionality, which uses a base image and a difference image.  The base image is read-only, and all writes go to the difference image.  Reads go to the difference image first, and then to the base image if not found.  To revert, simply delete the difference image.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storing the difference image in some on-card RAM would be a convenient way to revert on power loss, like I'm looking for.  The system that uses the card remains unchanged.  It can write to the card and read back what it just wrote, so long as there hasn't been a power loss in between.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another way to do it could be to have an equal amount of on-card RAM as it has flash.  When power is first applied, copy the flash into the on-card RAM, and then run entirely from the on-card RAM.  Again, the system has no idea that this is happening, and simply uses the card as usual.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A brute-force method could be to have twice the amount of flash as advertised, and use half of it to re-image the other half.  This has the disadvantage of wearing out the flash cells faster than usual because all of them (in the working set) get erased and rewritten on every power cycle in addition to the normal use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regardless of how it actually works, is there a device that has this external functionality?  Use it like a normal microSD card, then capture an image of itself and continue to use it normally...except that it now reverts to that captured image on a power cycle?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12089" RevisionGUID="eea882c1-efd2-4f68-a5ae-ca417e7573ab" CreationDate="2019-09-24T20:55:55.280" UserId="6407" Text="Self-reverting SD card?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12089" RevisionGUID="eea882c1-efd2-4f68-a5ae-ca417e7573ab" CreationDate="2019-09-24T20:55:55.280" UserId="6407" Text="&lt;sd-card&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41889" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12078" RevisionGUID="22e82eaf-f19a-418b-99c0-d9c01100e811" CreationDate="2019-09-24T22:00:15.757" UserId="13613" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="I am looking for some smart glasses to do some college project but most of them are way too costly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are my requirements, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. it should have a colored display.&#xD;&#xA;2. bluetooth/wifi connectivity&#xD;&#xA;3. camera &#xD;&#xA;4. some way to record input, either via touch gestures or motion gestures.&#xD;&#xA;5. some memory (512 mb, 1gb, 2gb, or 4gb). (Completely optional feature). &#xD;&#xA;6. battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am going to do is, connect the smart glass with some device, either pc or smart phone where all the processing will take place, and use smart glasses as input/output device. The only role of smart glass is to get input and display output. I don't need some standalone device as I am always going to connect it with some device. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking for bulky headset, just small device which can fit on glasses would be great. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12093" RevisionGUID="d74de210-7460-4b39-8fe5-3d928e74ee00" CreationDate="2019-09-25T04:05:50.917" UserId="7556" Text="# Get one of the scissor switch Apple keyboards&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboards make noise, and unless you want to get something horrid like a [silicone](https://www.amazon.com/Sungwoo-Foldable-Silicone-Keyboard-Waterproof/dp/B0179N39KS), touchscreen, or [laser](https://www.amazon.com/Projection-Keyboard-Bluetooth-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B00X54W9FC) keyboard, you're pretty much stuck with moving parts that are going to make noise. Frankly, **the Apple scissor switches are some of the [quietest (formerly) on the market](https://youtu.be/mP1p7-QeuRU?t=529)**, and you've said that you're fine with the things people normally complain about (layout and feel.) They're dead cheap on the used market (my local electronics thrift shop has them for $5) and it'll have the right layout and keycaps right out of the box. **My only recommendation is to get one of the older wired ones**, as I've found they tend to be somewhat quieter due to the larger contact area and lower distance from the desk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sure, there are plenty of other good scissor switch (and even low profile mechanical) keyboards out there, many of which arguably feel better: the [Cherry Stream 3.0](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011Z7FMWM), the [Surface Keyboard](https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/p/surface-keyboard/8r3rqvvflp4k/h85z?activetab=pivot:overviewtab), the [Gram XS](http://tesorotec.com/project/gram-xs/), any one of Cougar or Razer's various low profile keyboards. But **they aren't going to beat Apple in terms of being Apple, price, or being quiet.** And hey, if Apple comes out with a new switch in 2020, it's a $5 keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41911" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="d99b16cb-8b9d-4151-9125-76172e924022" CreationDate="2019-09-25T19:00:51.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="41939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12101" RevisionGUID="803a02e5-4084-42d2-a5dc-eff6c7c55de2" CreationDate="2019-09-26T06:13:49.937" UserId="13637" Text="My office currently uses the Morpho MSO E3 FPS. We use it in rural areas. The device is ok but our agents report that it is not reliable as oil/dirt can disrupt the scan way too easily than it should. Add to that, more often than not, it takes awhile to get a scan. We are looking at new alternatives. Within 40-50$, what FPS should I get. We generally use it with an android device via USB. I am currently looking at the Hamster Pro UPx. Any reviews or suggestions will be extremely helpful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41940" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12101" RevisionGUID="803a02e5-4084-42d2-a5dc-eff6c7c55de2" CreationDate="2019-09-26T06:13:49.937" UserId="13637" Text="Finger Print Scanner Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41941" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12101" RevisionGUID="803a02e5-4084-42d2-a5dc-eff6c7c55de2" CreationDate="2019-09-26T06:13:49.937" UserId="13637" Text="&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="d22cb61c-cea1-49d6-9e0b-adcf67bc138d" CreationDate="2019-09-26T07:58:04.977" UserId="13638" Text="I need to know the cheapest but best quality server that can host a college esports team. it will mostly be used for holding game files and documents for the team i do not have access to windows server and am trying to make it work on windows 10 i would also like to know if its best to build a server or just but a existing one" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41943" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="d22cb61c-cea1-49d6-9e0b-adcf67bc138d" CreationDate="2019-09-26T07:58:04.977" UserId="13638" Text="Need help with E sports Server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41944" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="d22cb61c-cea1-49d6-9e0b-adcf67bc138d" CreationDate="2019-09-26T07:58:04.977" UserId="13638" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41946" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12104" RevisionGUID="81981d30-f35f-4cec-8884-7f523e8aa52a" CreationDate="2019-09-26T08:19:41.160" UserId="1410" Text="I am still experimenting, but will try to keep this thread up to date. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The M5stack works well enough, and has the advantage of a display - and a microphone (not sure if it acts as a speaker) and does not have built-in vibrate to get attention functionality, although that could be added. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I still need to need to run test on battery life [link to project exploring the deep sleep possibilities of the M5stack watch](https://m5stack.hackster.io/aazim14/m5-smart-watch-using-deep-sleep-function-to-increase-battery-d6caf5)).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now, I just discovered the RSL10-COIN-GEVB, which uses a standard wtach/coin cell battery, and am very excited as [this page](https://www.onsemi.com/support/evaluation-board/rsl10-coin-gevb) says&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The board incorporates a temperature sensor, NCT375, and RSL10, industry's lowest power Bluetooth 5 SoC. With the included CR2032 coin cell and an advertising packet being sent every 2 seconds, ***the device lasts over 6 years***! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also &#xD;&#xA;&gt; The beacon follows Eddystone, an open beacon format from Google. A web URL and ambient temperature data embedded in the advertising packet can be read using Beacon Scanner or other freely available beacon scanning apps from the Android and iOS app stores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That seems ideal. I am now questioning whether I really need a display. I suppose I could ad done, but what might it do to the battery life? Maybe only power it on for 60 seconds when there is a message? Or use eInk?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will update this when I have experimented some more. Btw, there is a [battery-fee , always on, solar powered version](https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/continuous-battery-free-sensor-monitoring) It costs 4 times as much, but sounds well worth it for certain applications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11306" RevisionGUID="f4e11d15-6c2d-4ed2-a28d-211f98a5bed5" CreationDate="2019-09-26T08:20:04.823" UserId="1410" Comment="added 201 characters in body" Text="I am answering my own question, in case it is of any interest to others.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For development, I have found an excellent and extremely cheap solution. In  fact, it could probably be used in non-profits. Only for a commercial product would I need to have something custom manufactured, as I can't find a COTS solution (needs to be smaller, more rugged, with a better battery).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, for US $14.90, plus postage, I found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[M5Stack Multi-function Watch! With 700mAh Battery for Arduino &amp; Micropython ESP32 Core Intelligent Programmable Watch with Band](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-700mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-ESP32-Core-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's slightly chunky, and I don't like only having a 700 mAH battery (but the ESP32 has great power management), but it's more than good enough for development.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hmmm, the [Google cached version](https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:dJH6kzd8PKgJ:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5Stack-Multi-function-Watch-With-ESP32-and-850mAh-Battery-for-Arduino-Micropython-Intelligent-Programmable-Watch-with/32854179945.html+&amp;cd=2&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;gl=uk&amp;client=firefox-b-ab) of the page shows it as costing less ($10.70), with a batter (850 mAH) battery. Strange days indeed!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also,[this one](http://forum.m5stack.com/topic/548/m5stick-watch) looks smaller, with a better form factor. I will have to enquire where to but it &amp; update this answer.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update]  from forum.m5stack.com/topic/548/m5stick-watch/9&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; the original stick can be purchased via the following links:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/M5Stack-Official-New-M5Stick-Mini-Development-Kit-ESP32-1-3-OLED-80mAh-Battery-Inside-Buzzer-IR/3226069_32994893797.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.13.25ba781bqWZV2X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://m5stack.com/collections/m5-core/products/m5stack-official-new-m5stick-mini-development-kit-esp32-1-3oled-80mah-battery-inside-buzzer-ir-transmitter-mpu9250-optional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The main differences between the stick and stick c are that the stick c has a smaller screen but it is color opposed to the monochrome oled of the original, the power management chip is different, there are a bunch more sensors added etc.. for a detailed comparison you can check the docs pages for both the stick and the stick c&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://docs.m5stack.com/#/en/core/m5stick&#xD;&#xA;&gt; https://docs.m5stack.com/#/en/core/m5stickc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also costs sub $15&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] [link to project exploring the deep sleep possibilities of the M5stack watch](https://m5stack.hackster.io/aazim14/m5-smart-watch-using-deep-sleep-function-to-increase-battery-d6caf5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXPnr.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEZA5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2s0J.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12105" RevisionGUID="6ac9dea4-6141-41be-8f99-8e1256a523a7" CreationDate="2019-09-26T08:28:10.787" UserId="1873" Text="By your comments you are looking for a [Network Attached Storage](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network-attached_storage). Instead of buying a regular PC, buy a dedicated device, like [one of these QNAP NASes](https://www.qnap.com/en/product/series/home).&#xA;&#xA;If you absolutely must do it yourself any PC which can run your OS of choice would suffice for a small team. What you may want if you are going with Windows is to get a motherboard which supports RAID and use it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41954" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="c2a02a64-3430-46ef-8aca-fbacbbc42d41" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:38:07.467" UserId="1873" Comment="Add some clarifications" Text="I need to know the cheapest but best quality server that can host data (not games) for a college esports team. it will mostly be used for holding game files and documents for the team. I do not have access to Windows Server and am trying to make it work on Windows 10 i would also like to know if its best to build a server or just but a existing one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41955" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="c2a02a64-3430-46ef-8aca-fbacbbc42d41" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:38:07.467" UserId="1873" Comment="Add some clarifications" Text="Need help with file server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41956" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="c2a02a64-3430-46ef-8aca-fbacbbc42d41" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:38:07.467" UserId="1873" Comment="Add some clarifications" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41957" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="c2a02a64-3430-46ef-8aca-fbacbbc42d41" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:38:07.467" Comment="Proposed by 1873 approved by -1 edit id of 927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12102" RevisionGUID="e51ed493-1296-4bb4-94dd-e23062875332" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:38:07.467" UserId="8" Comment="Add some clarifications" Text="I need to know the cheapest but best quality server that can host data (not games) for a college esports team. it will mostly be used for holding game files and documents for the team. I do not have access to Windows Server and am trying to make it work on Windows 10." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12107" RevisionGUID="40cfe61e-16e3-44a9-80a1-f3df382d1e3e" CreationDate="2019-09-26T15:51:34.973" UserId="13645" Text="For those still looking for weather stations with an API i found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) **[Ambient Weather](https://www.ambientweather.com/bestsellers.html)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - JSON Formatted Data&#xD;&#xA; - Connection secured by key&#xD;&#xA; - Lot of weather stations (from $100 to $1000)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) **[WeatherFlow Smart Home Weather Station](https://shop.weatherflow.com/products/smart-home-weather-stations)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- REST API and local data access via UDP and BLE&#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- AI / Machine learning improves forecasts over time (someone has more informations?)&#xD;&#xA;- $299.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be continued...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12107" RevisionGUID="028e6997-0be6-47fc-acad-3ef83b90aad7" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:24:23.313" UserId="13645" Comment="added 477 characters in body" Text="For those still looking for weather stations with an API i found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) **[Ambient Weather](https://www.ambientweather.com/bestsellers.html)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - JSON Formatted Data&#xD;&#xA; - Connection secured by key&#xD;&#xA; - Lot of weather stations (from $100 to $1000)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) **[WeatherFlow Smart Home Weather Station](https://shop.weatherflow.com/products/smart-home-weather-stations)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- REST API and local data access via UDP and BLE&#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- AI / Machine learning improves forecasts over time (someone has more informations?)&#xD;&#xA;- $299.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) **[Acurite](https://www.acurite.com)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Open source API that can be installed on Rasperi PI: [acuparse](https://www.acuparse.com/)&#xD;&#xA; - But unavailable in most European countries...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) **[Vantage Pro2](https://www.davisinstruments.com/solution/vantage-pro2/)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- From $600 to $1300 for the Vantage Pro2 or $240 for the Vantage Vue (weather station only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little comparative page between [weather station](https://the-weather-station.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be continued...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41964" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12107" RevisionGUID="a0eba4b8-1aea-42d9-94ac-9024c9b13d75" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:33:55.743" UserId="13645" Comment="added 477 characters in body" Text="For those looking for a **Weather station with an API** i found some:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) **[Ambient Weather](https://www.ambientweather.com/bestsellers.html)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - JSON Formatted Data&#xD;&#xA; - Connection secured by key&#xD;&#xA; - Lot of weather stations (from $100 to $1000)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) **[WeatherFlow Smart Home Weather Station](https://shop.weatherflow.com/products/smart-home-weather-stations)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- REST API and local data access via UDP and BLE&#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- AI / Machine learning improves forecasts over time (someone has more informations?)&#xD;&#xA;- $299.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) **[Acurite](https://www.acurite.com)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Open source API that can be installed on Rasperi PI: [acuparse](https://www.acuparse.com/)&#xD;&#xA; - But unavailable in most European countries...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) **[Vantage Pro2](https://www.davisinstruments.com/solution/vantage-pro2/)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- From $600 to $1300 for the Vantage Pro2 or $240 for the Vantage Vue (weather station only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little comparative page between [weather station](https://the-weather-station.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be continued...&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12107" RevisionGUID="d9f01621-82d3-436b-a079-96ace277fce0" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:40:48.413" UserId="13645" Comment="added 477 characters in body" Text="For those looking for a **Weather station with an API** i found some (not ordered):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1) **[Ambient Weather](https://www.ambientweather.com/bestsellers.html)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - JSON Formatted Data&#xD;&#xA; - Connection secured by key&#xD;&#xA; - Lot of weather stations (from $100 to $1000)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) **[WeatherFlow Smart Home Weather Station](https://shop.weatherflow.com/products/smart-home-weather-stations)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- REST API and local data access via UDP and BLE&#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- AI / Machine learning improves forecasts over time (someone has more informations?)&#xD;&#xA;- $299.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) **[Acurite](https://www.acurite.com)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Open source API that can be installed on Rasperi PI: [acuparse](https://www.acuparse.com/)&#xD;&#xA; - But unavailable in most European countries...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) **[Vantage Pro2](https://www.davisinstruments.com/solution/vantage-pro2/)**&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- Solar powered&#xD;&#xA;- From $600 to $1300 for the Vantage Pro2 or $240 for the Vantage Vue (weather station only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5) **[Froggit weather stations](https://www.froggit.de/?cat=c26_Professional-Weatherstations-category-26.html)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- From 65€ to 314€ (more if you take more screen with it)&#xD;&#xA;- Looks hard to configure access to data. [Configure the console to send to weewx](https://github.com/weewx/weewx/wiki/observer)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little comparative page between [weather stations with API](https://the-weather-station.com/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be continued... (Feel free to comment if you see more informations to add to this answer)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12108" RevisionGUID="14299152-f503-470c-95a5-a9ed091285f9" CreationDate="2019-09-26T21:34:38.393" UserId="1873" Text="I feel that [Hexiwear](https://www.hexiwear.com/hardware/) is a pretty good platform, although a little expensive. I feel it ticks most of your boxes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- rubber wrist band - check&#xD;&#xA;- rugged and robust - not really, but it's enclosed in that wristband&#xD;&#xA;- small form factor - check&#xD;&#xA;- no builtin aps - check&#xD;&#xA;- loading own software - that MCU is fully programmable&#xD;&#xA;- sub 50$ (49$) to be exact&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might initially be thrown back by the small battery (190 mAh) but:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- that's all you can reasonably get in such a small form factor&#xD;&#xA;- it's enough to get you through the day if you program it well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding deep sleep - in such an application it is pretty much required, not an option to be explored.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a bonus you have a pulse oximeter and heart-rate monitor which could detect some health conditions in your employees (like fainting, there is even a tutorial on that)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="41977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12112" RevisionGUID="400d1408-ce7d-4d9a-94fc-47c48a40a87b" CreationDate="2019-09-27T11:55:39.043" UserId="13647" Text="the best one I have found so far is LETSCOM USB C Hub, 8 in 1 USB C Adapter with Wireless Charger, 4K HDMI, USB C Power Delivery, 3 USB 3.0 Ports, SD/TF Card Reader, Compatible for USB Type C Devices not sure if it does what you need but its pretty efficient obviously depending on the phone and you'd need to check that it is compatible with your device " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="aa941c0c-a427-43f7-949f-5589d94156db" CreationDate="2019-09-28T04:33:46.227" UserId="13652" Text="I got a new laptop (ThinkPad X1 Carbon) but it only has one USB-C port, I also have a USB-C portable monitor (Asus ZenScreen) that gets its power and data through the single port USB-C connection to the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so now I have both devices sucking battery life with no way for me to provide external power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are plenty of USB-C hubs that can pass power through to the laptop, while also providing signal output, though it seems only to full VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort outputs, none that have USB-C output....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;is this a limitation of the USB specification? or is it a rare use-case and not enough vendors out there building such hubs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42001" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="aa941c0c-a427-43f7-949f-5589d94156db" CreationDate="2019-09-28T04:33:46.227" UserId="13652" Text="Is there a USB-C hub for USB-C power input AND USB-C display output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42002" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="aa941c0c-a427-43f7-949f-5589d94156db" CreationDate="2019-09-28T04:33:46.227" UserId="13652" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42013" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="a3948fa9-37c8-4421-92c7-c87f3dfcadbd" CreationDate="2019-09-29T04:04:35.480" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42017" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10278" RevisionGUID="f455ceb8-7d55-48c2-a2a5-e3f596f4ede0" CreationDate="2019-09-29T14:01:20.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12121" RevisionGUID="4471a69e-364c-4316-8416-c1b24f7c2669" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:27:23.223" UserId="13665" Text="I'm trying to install CloudReady on my 7 year old Lenovo laptop (Yoga 13). I was able to complete installation, however the inbuilt WiFi wasn't detected, and laptop doesn't have an Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I heard ChromeOS recently started supporting some external WiFi adapters. I tried Cisco Valet AM10, which I currently own and it din't get detected. I also tried replacing the inbuilt WiFi adapter, but the chip being proprietary, I cannot upgrade it.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend an adapter that worked for you or think may work with ChromeOS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42043" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12121" RevisionGUID="4471a69e-364c-4316-8416-c1b24f7c2669" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:27:23.223" UserId="13665" Text="Compatible WiFi adapter for ChromeOS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42044" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12121" RevisionGUID="4471a69e-364c-4316-8416-c1b24f7c2669" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:27:23.223" UserId="13665" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42068" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12128" RevisionGUID="4ab20b66-389c-4160-a74d-fdd5ba7fd6b3" CreationDate="2019-10-01T12:54:14.607" UserId="13610" Text="Since no one else answered I will give the answer, as in the meantime I choose the &quot;Ubiquiti Unifi 16-150W&quot; switch. It has one (maybe even 2) fans, but they only come one at a certain temperature and at startup. I never heard them running after startup in my case, but I only have 2 PoE devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42091" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12133" RevisionGUID="f46d4900-16d6-47ef-948b-e265d224a693" CreationDate="2019-10-02T11:53:39.270" UserId="13672" Text="I got a Thinkpad T480 for uni, but I ended up using it only for code compiling, which I can do on my Android tbh; writing emails, which I also can do on my phone; organizing files on my NTFS drive, which the phone can't do. So I plan on selling the T480 and getting a laptop that costs around 100$ just for managing files.&#xA;&#xA;I would really like it to be less than 3kg, have at least 720p screen, external battery, USB 3 optional. If the CPU can run Chrome without going over 30% usage, I'm good. RAM upgradeable to 8 would be nice.&#xA;&#xA;I have my eyes on the T440 for the moment, but if you have a better recommendation, please do tell." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42092" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12133" RevisionGUID="f46d4900-16d6-47ef-948b-e265d224a693" CreationDate="2019-10-02T11:53:39.270" UserId="13672" Text="Dirtcheap laptop for file management" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42093" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12133" RevisionGUID="f46d4900-16d6-47ef-948b-e265d224a693" CreationDate="2019-10-02T11:53:39.270" UserId="13672" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="ec03eb8b-c07d-4a3a-ae34-2b0a88b66864" CreationDate="2019-10-02T21:26:11.553" UserId="13676" Text="So I recently purchased some airpods and want to also use them with my xbox while playing online games. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen that you can use them with the xbox app using [this guide](https://www.lifewire.com/can-you-connect-airpods-to-xbox-one-4767978) But the app has it's shortcomings. It has it's occasional glitches with connectivity, it won't automatically switch to using the app as the primary voice client when connecting to voice using the xbox, and the ultimate downside is it only provides voice chat so no way to also stream the game sounds as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So after seeing [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiOOOw23a5g) about connecting them to the ipod classic, they used the [Hagibis Bluetooth 5.0 Transmitter Receiver](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MTFRKQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) so I decided to purchase them thinking it could do 2 way rx/tx at the same time but unfortunately not. It only does one or the other. At least for this configuration so I'm finding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my search I found [here](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/94484/can-a-standard-rx-tx-bluetooth-module-send-and-receive-at-the-same-time) that the term is refered to as &quot;full duplex&quot; although I've tried many different combinations of searches on amazon for full duplex bluetooth atapters and most seem to be for cars and the ones without full duplex seem to only do either or not both at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My understanding is that the easiest way to achieve this is using the 3.5mm jack on the controllers which would work if I can find one that does both. The only other option would be possibly some usb type adapter like the ones that the gaming hadsets use but only one I could find was advertised as only for connecting to a PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any experience with this? Or know a way I can do this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="ec03eb8b-c07d-4a3a-ae34-2b0a88b66864" CreationDate="2019-10-02T21:26:11.553" UserId="13676" Text="I'm looking for a bluetooth transmitter/receiver to connect bluetooth headphones to xbox" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="ec03eb8b-c07d-4a3a-ae34-2b0a88b66864" CreationDate="2019-10-02T21:26:11.553" UserId="13676" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42108" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11929" RevisionGUID="8da22136-55a5-4e06-a2fa-2ef7e5d948a7" CreationDate="2019-10-03T06:02:00.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42109" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="a95109f0-defb-4fdf-b9b2-cdd50a2fd325" CreationDate="2019-10-03T09:02:15.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42127" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="f41bbe05-45eb-4c02-8c4a-935e24e99938" CreationDate="2019-10-03T17:00:42.173" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42131" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="8cf4f029-cb1c-495a-a504-900c47262803" CreationDate="2019-10-03T17:42:33.363" UserId="13676" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42143" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="569c0714-3a4a-4787-8096-094b0edf2157" CreationDate="2019-10-04T06:02:35.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42155" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="798574ef-f7e6-420f-971f-00ff68b81613" CreationDate="2019-10-04T16:00:45.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42160" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12153" RevisionGUID="8c66887c-d34f-4a0a-8bc3-81aa370bfc9b" CreationDate="2019-10-04T21:29:43.883" UserId="10174" Text="I am looking for IP cameras which can be connected to from across the internet using information like Device ID, Credentials. Do you have any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this case, I would think the vendor would have some server which my application needs to connect/communicate to first with the camera identifier and credentials. And the server would have the URI for the camera, for getting the stream from the camera etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42161" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12153" RevisionGUID="8c66887c-d34f-4a0a-8bc3-81aa370bfc9b" CreationDate="2019-10-04T21:29:43.883" UserId="10174" Text="IP Cameras with API support to detect and connect for stream from outside network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42162" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12153" RevisionGUID="8c66887c-d34f-4a0a-8bc3-81aa370bfc9b" CreationDate="2019-10-04T21:29:43.883" UserId="10174" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42194" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="a753d185-6bb0-499d-b394-997bd64d7f94" CreationDate="2019-10-06T03:03:00.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42195" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="670bc0ca-08f7-4363-81fc-def8283613b6" CreationDate="2019-10-06T04:03:56.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12156" RevisionGUID="427af1a4-1999-4b46-89fb-e057cdf10023" CreationDate="2019-10-06T15:34:19.983" UserId="13703" Text="There are several black boxes with just a USB socket and I'd like to find out which data they read from a USB memory stick when plugged-in in real time. A plus would be if I could hook-in like a debugger and manipulate the file system contents of the USB stick while the stick is read by the black box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +--------------+                    &#xD;&#xA;    |              |                    +-----------------+&#xD;&#xA;    |  Black Box   |   +------------+   | RT-Information  |&#xD;&#xA;    |  with       +----+ USB-Stick  |   | on remote Device|&#xD;&#xA;    |  USB socket +----+            +---+-+-------------+-+&#xD;&#xA;    |              |   +------------+     |&gt;&gt;&gt; $        |&#xD;&#xA;    +--------------+                      +-------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;High- or low level: On a high level assuming exFAT, it would for example interesting for me to see if directory listings are accessed and file opens as well as data reads in a file. On the other hand if there is hardware supporting low-level output of its accesses, it might not be too hard, to write some software that translates those low-level information into high-level info that I am seeking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have nearly no clue about how hardware communicates over USB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12156" RevisionGUID="427af1a4-1999-4b46-89fb-e057cdf10023" CreationDate="2019-10-06T15:34:19.983" UserId="13703" Text="USB memory stick with real-time auditing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12156" RevisionGUID="427af1a4-1999-4b46-89fb-e057cdf10023" CreationDate="2019-10-06T15:34:19.983" UserId="13703" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42200" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="aa5aae0a-33e5-4a3e-b6ed-706f90d03c60" CreationDate="2019-10-07T01:01:20.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42215" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12161" RevisionGUID="150f033b-9705-4de6-a70a-524fbeb4bfce" CreationDate="2019-10-07T13:24:54.017" UserId="10297" Text="I going to buy a Monitor, this gonna be my first monitor so I plan to get a monitor that could output Above Average Visual Experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Main Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2K WQHD (2560 x 1440 Resolution)&#xD;&#xA;- Refresh Rate between 75Hz to 144Hz&#xD;&#xA;- 24 Inch Size or Above&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **purpose of the monitor** is to:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;1. Connect to my **ROG Strix Scar 2** Laptop **(with Mini Display Port)** to play High Graphic Game (eg. Monster Hunter World) in **2K Resolution** &#xD;&#xA;2. Connect my **Nintendo Switch** (with HDMI Port) to play **Legend of Zelda** &#xD;&#xA; (only able output 900P from Switch by Default) in **900P Resolution** or other Games in **1080P Resolution**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Monitor I found so far [ACER ED323QURA 32&quot; Curve 2K WQHD][1] and My Budget is **RM1300 (around USD 310)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Concerns and Uncertainty**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I been come across some site [(Reddit Forum)][2], mentioned that 2K WQHD 32Inch Monitor going have drawback of **Pixelation Issue** when sit close to the screen, so should I get 27Inch Monitor to eliminate the Issue or the **Pixelation Issue** not something can be highly noticeable and should ignore it and go for 32Inch Monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. If I try to let the 32Inch 2K Monitor to **display 900P/1080P** Resolution (for Nintendo Switch Game), will the Visual Quality decrease which cause visual **Blurry/Pixalation/etc**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just hope that the Monitor could support my **purpose of the monitor** without compromise the Visual Quality, will a 32 Inch 2K WQHD Monitor will surely doing fine without harming the visual experience? or should I consider other Monitor (lower Inch Size, etc) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please do recommend me any Monitor that fit my Scenario and Use case the Best, thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/acer-ed323qura-32-curve-2k-wqhd-freesync-144hz-2k-gaming-monitor-i452464299-s689224606.html?spm=a2o4k.searchlist.list.5.1c273ab4uj411v&amp;search=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/9pvhaj/what_is_1080p_like_on_a_32inch_monitor/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42216" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12161" RevisionGUID="150f033b-9705-4de6-a70a-524fbeb4bfce" CreationDate="2019-10-07T13:24:54.017" UserId="10297" Text="Should choose 32Inch or 27Inch for 2K WQHD PC Monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42217" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12161" RevisionGUID="150f033b-9705-4de6-a70a-524fbeb4bfce" CreationDate="2019-10-07T13:24:54.017" UserId="10297" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42218" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12161" RevisionGUID="f1807b4d-0f5a-49a5-a6a1-458fb51b2d88" CreationDate="2019-10-07T13:30:38.577" UserId="10297" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I going to buy a Monitor, this gonna be my first monitor so I plan to get a monitor that could output Above Average Visual Experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Main Requirements**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2K WQHD (2560 x 1440 Resolution)&#xD;&#xA;- Refresh Rate between 75Hz to 144Hz&#xD;&#xA;- 24 Inch Size or Above&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The **purpose of the monitor** is to:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;1. Connect to my **ROG Strix Scar 2**, i7-8750H + RTX2070 Laptop **(with Mini Display Port)** to play High Graphic Game (eg. Monster Hunter World) in **2K Resolution** &#xD;&#xA;2. Connect my **Nintendo Switch** (with HDMI Port) to play **Legend of Zelda** &#xD;&#xA; (only able output 900P from Switch by Default) in **900P Resolution** or other Games in **1080P Resolution**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Monitor I found so far [ACER ED323QURA 32&quot; Curve 2K WQHD][1] and My Budget is **RM1300 (around USD 310)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Concerns and Uncertainty**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. I been come across some site [(Reddit Forum)][2], mentioned that 2K WQHD 32Inch Monitor going have drawback of **Pixelation Issue** when sit close to the screen, so should I get 27Inch Monitor to eliminate the Issue or the **Pixelation Issue** not something can be highly noticeable and should ignore it and go for 32Inch Monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. If I try to let the 32Inch 2K Monitor to **display 900P/1080P** Resolution (for Nintendo Switch Game), will the Visual Quality decrease which cause visual **Blurry/Pixalation/etc**?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just hope that the Monitor could support my **purpose of the monitor** without compromise the Visual Quality, will a 32 Inch 2K WQHD Monitor will surely doing fine without harming the visual experience? or should I consider other Monitor (lower Inch Size, etc) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please do recommend me any Monitor that fit my Scenario and Use case the Best, thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/acer-ed323qura-32-curve-2k-wqhd-freesync-144hz-2k-gaming-monitor-i452464299-s689224606.html?spm=a2o4k.searchlist.list.5.1c273ab4uj411v&amp;search=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/9pvhaj/what_is_1080p_like_on_a_32inch_monitor/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="b6702351-970d-4133-a755-c1779d1cebf3" CreationDate="2019-10-07T21:50:37.697" UserId="7203" Text="I noticed that most laptops have batteries that have under 100 Wh of battery capacity. Usually this is fine and can last for hours if you aren't pushing the machine too hard, but I'm wondering if there are laptops that can last for hours even when doing extremely intensive computations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there laptops with, say, 0.5 to 1 kWh worth of battery capacity? Weight is not a concern." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="b6702351-970d-4133-a755-c1779d1cebf3" CreationDate="2019-10-07T21:50:37.697" UserId="7203" Text="Are there laptops with extremely high battery capacity?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="b6702351-970d-4133-a755-c1779d1cebf3" CreationDate="2019-10-07T21:50:37.697" UserId="7203" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12165" RevisionGUID="e2914153-f323-4e66-91e3-d2a4123bb9de" CreationDate="2019-10-07T22:29:03.270" UserId="241" Text="If you're looking for &quot;cheap&quot; and &quot;reliable&quot;, you probably want the Prusa i3 Mk3S ([$750 in kit form][1] or [$1000 pre-built][2]).  If you're willing to purchase a second-hand printer, the Prusa i3 Mk3 and Mk2.5 have almost all the user-friendlyness features of the Mk3S.  There are plenty of cheaper 3D printers, but if you hang out on 3D-printer discussion forums, you'll find that they require extensive tuning, and often upgrades, before they're ready to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the Prusa printers get their instructions from an SD card rather than by being hooked up to a computer, you can probably control one from an iPhone.  You'll need some software called a &quot;slicer&quot; to generate those instructions from a 3D model, and I don't know what, if any, is available for the iPhone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3-kit.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/181-original-prusa-i3-mk3-3d-printer.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12166" RevisionGUID="44002b45-24ee-4877-ada0-310fb864b728" CreationDate="2019-10-07T23:56:41.950" UserId="13421" Text="Rather than rugged, think repairable/replaceable. You could use any mount and adapt it to take a length of 2 mm dia. (12 gauge) copper wire. If bent, it can be straightened by hand, and if broken, replaced for &lt;&lt;US$1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An advantage of the less robust approach is that soft copper wire is less likely to cause damage to the harvester if ingested, or to personnel. Think &quot;just small potatoes&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12168" RevisionGUID="cee4dc8f-7117-4e6a-aa27-91c99b5cba01" CreationDate="2019-10-08T17:14:20.417" UserId="13714" Text="Okay so, I have a device that has one usb port. This port only has enough power for one of my usb devices at a time. I would like to get a splitter to support two usb devices. However is it possible to choose where the power goes at any given time using programming? (Eg. send power to usb device A for 5 seconds and then switch to sending power to usb device B for 5 seconds, etc.). Perhaps my question is moot: if I got a normal splitter, would this work fine anyway?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12168" RevisionGUID="cee4dc8f-7117-4e6a-aa27-91c99b5cba01" CreationDate="2019-10-08T17:14:20.417" UserId="13714" Text="Are there USB Splitters in existence that I allow me to choose where the power goes based on program?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12168" RevisionGUID="cee4dc8f-7117-4e6a-aa27-91c99b5cba01" CreationDate="2019-10-08T17:14:20.417" UserId="13714" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12169" RevisionGUID="6077b4e9-80c9-47b9-9bfa-5112ab8c7513" CreationDate="2019-10-08T18:02:04.037" UserId="13715" Text="I have a music calculator, which has an audio output port. So I can plug in headphones or speaker on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But now i want to connect it to a computer as input signal like microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any convertor or circuit can solve the problem?&#xD;&#xA;Or any good idea or recommend? Thanks for helping.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12169" RevisionGUID="6077b4e9-80c9-47b9-9bfa-5112ab8c7513" CreationDate="2019-10-08T18:02:04.037" UserId="13715" Text="How to convert an audio output signal to input signal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12169" RevisionGUID="6077b4e9-80c9-47b9-9bfa-5112ab8c7513" CreationDate="2019-10-08T18:02:04.037" UserId="13715" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12171" RevisionGUID="bd058190-58f2-4887-b13a-5b39001157c8" CreationDate="2019-10-08T21:33:16.583" UserId="10648" Text="You can use a male-to-male 3.5mm audio cable like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Auxiliary-Silver-Plating-Compatible-Bluetooth/dp/B0793KTNJY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=3.5mm+to+3.5mm+cable&amp;qid=1570570288&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUjk1QUo1Sk5LQUtZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjU2MTMzM1JUVjdKMVBWT1g3MyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDM4NzkzM1BSQ0FVWlNIU1dUQiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) to connect the music calculator to the PC's microphone or 'AUX' jack. It will work just like a microphone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42250" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="6d020861-a9bb-4a64-96a6-f3f7f580c00f" CreationDate="2019-10-08T23:06:46.443" UserId="13676" Comment="88" />
  <row Id="42258" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11083" RevisionGUID="5bd1dfd2-b3e8-4e16-9430-5d68b664c0e9" CreationDate="2019-10-09T07:01:35.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12180" RevisionGUID="316a0b4c-e027-4ddd-b114-a620c1402f69" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:30:37.910" UserId="11232" Text="I'm looking for a USB-sized board to build a USB exploitation tool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to build something similar to a [Bash Bunny](https://shop.hak5.org/products/bash-bunny) or a [Rubber Ducky](https://shop.hak5.org/collections/physical-access/products/usb-rubber-ducky-deluxe). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is a pre-built board (prefered) or chip &#xD;&#xA;- able to run a Linux OS (Ubuntu or Kali)&#xD;&#xA;- has a USB male head and a micro-SD slot (for swapping payloads)&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi (and Bluetooth) capability (Bluetooth is not a must but a big bonus)&#xD;&#xA;- is relatively cheap (10-30 USD maybe)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to make this work with both &quot;plug-and-go&quot; and persistent logging. Having a lot of IO pins besides for the USB &amp; SD card (like the [Raspberry Pi Compute Module](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/computemodule/)) can make it unnecessarily complex and expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, it being a pre-built board where I just have to solder on a few IO pins makes it easier, but a simple and cheap processing chip is also OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose for making this is to make it a multi-purpose tool, capable of exfiltrating data, log data persistently, sitting and gathering data about WiFi and Bluetooth devices walking around, plug-inject-go jobs, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Rubber Ducky isn't multi-purposed enough and the Bash Bunny is rather expensive. I've looked around for a few USBs and boards but have yet to found something good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Plug the USB, wait a few seconds, unplug and leave with exfiltrated data (classic rubber ducky stuff)&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, inject backdoors and stuff, unplug, come back later to use the injected code&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, persistently log data (eg keyboard strokes, data streams, etc), return to unplug, leave with an SD card full of logged data&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, use a phone charger or PC's USB port just for power, monitor WiFi and Bluetooth in the area and log that into the USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do realize that sounds like a lot to ask for of something 10-30 USD but I'm mainly looking for something that can do basic processing with USB, micro SD, WiFi and Bluetooth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12180" RevisionGUID="316a0b4c-e027-4ddd-b114-a620c1402f69" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:30:37.910" UserId="11232" Text="USB-sized board for running USB exploits" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12180" RevisionGUID="316a0b4c-e027-4ddd-b114-a620c1402f69" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:30:37.910" UserId="11232" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42289" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12180" RevisionGUID="daf8de6e-10f0-43f3-a9a4-04cc012f2e68" CreationDate="2019-10-10T08:06:41.300" UserId="11232" Comment="deleted 37 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a USB-sized board to build a USB exploitation tool.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to build something similar to a [Bash Bunny](https://shop.hak5.org/products/bash-bunny) or a [Rubber Ducky](https://shop.hak5.org/collections/physical-access/products/usb-rubber-ducky-deluxe). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is a pre-built board (prefered) or chip &#xD;&#xA;- able to run a Linux OS (Ubuntu or Kali)&#xD;&#xA;- has a USB male head and a micro-SD slot (for swapping payloads)&#xD;&#xA;- WiFi with Monitor mode &#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- is relatively cheap (10-30 USD maybe)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to make this work with both &quot;plug-and-go&quot; and persistent logging. Having a lot of IO pins besides for the USB &amp; SD card (like the [Raspberry Pi Compute Module](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/computemodule/)) can make it unnecessarily complex and expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, it being a pre-built board where I just have to solder on a few IO pins makes it easier, but a simple and cheap processing chip is also OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose for making this is to make it a multi-purpose tool, capable of exfiltrating data, log data persistently, sitting and gathering data about WiFi and Bluetooth devices walking around, plug-inject-go jobs, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Rubber Ducky isn't multi-purposed enough and the Bash Bunny is rather expensive. I've looked around for a few USBs and boards but have yet to found something good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Plug the USB, wait a few seconds, unplug and leave with exfiltrated data (classic rubber ducky stuff)&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, inject backdoors and stuff, unplug, come back later to use the injected code&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, persistently log data (eg keyboard strokes, data streams, etc), return to unplug, leave with an SD card full of logged data&#xD;&#xA;- Plug, use a phone charger or PC's USB port just for power, monitor WiFi and Bluetooth in the area and log that into the USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do realize that sounds like a lot to ask for of something 10-30 USD but I'm mainly looking for something that can do basic processing with USB, micro SD, WiFi and Bluetooth." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42339" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11968" RevisionGUID="e60b2cfc-df95-4e98-b66a-8f7e486d539a" CreationDate="2019-10-11T21:01:15.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42350" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10500" RevisionGUID="6e3813b7-6f45-4bff-924c-74f21c0df59a" CreationDate="2019-10-12T03:03:00.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12195" RevisionGUID="8bb97c38-b13d-41b1-ae9a-30a4ae5eaafd" CreationDate="2019-10-12T08:46:17.640" UserId="1115" Text="I am looking for a headset which I can wear while cycling. I would prefer a bluetooth one, but a non-bluetooth headset might also be acceptable if the quality/price is really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is important to me that the headset can deal with loud background (wind from driving; many people speaking when using public transportation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also using it when it rains. So IPX4 would be good. But I guess most headsets which are not certified are also ok with this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * &lt; 30 EUR on amazon.de: Cool!&#xD;&#xA; * [30 - 50) EUR: Acceptable&#xD;&#xA; * [50 - 80] EUR: The quality would need to be really good&#xD;&#xA; * more than 80 EUR: Let me know in the comments if you have one that you're really happy with, but that is more than I want to pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Bad Examples&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a couple of headsets so far and I was not super happy with any of them. Two which I had for a longer time:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Samsung EG920**: The audio quality, microphone quality and the shape of the in-ear pieces was very good. It also was super cheap (&lt; 5 EUR on Amazon). The problem is that they break super easily. In the last 6 months I had to buy 4 of them. Some broke and I have no idea why. Some broke because I got caught in the cable and pulled to hard on them (which was not super hard in the first place; after all, it was in my ear while I accidentially pulled it).&#xD;&#xA;* **Mpow Flame Bluetooth**: I bought those because I hope that they don't break that easily. The ear-pieces are uncomfortable, the audio-quality is similar to the Samsung EG920. The main problem is that the microphone is in the ear-piece. So if I'm in a loud environment and I'm on the phone, it is super hard to understand my (or I have to shout really loud)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42358" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12195" RevisionGUID="8bb97c38-b13d-41b1-ae9a-30a4ae5eaafd" CreationDate="2019-10-12T08:46:17.640" UserId="1115" Text="In-ear bluetooth headset with good microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42359" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12195" RevisionGUID="8bb97c38-b13d-41b1-ae9a-30a4ae5eaafd" CreationDate="2019-10-12T08:46:17.640" UserId="1115" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12195" RevisionGUID="218d7dd3-083c-4d32-9eda-32949bcbfbda" CreationDate="2019-10-12T09:10:10.133" UserId="1115" Comment="added 81 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a headset which I can wear while cycling. I would prefer a bluetooth one, but a non-bluetooth headset might also be acceptable if the quality/price is really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is important to me that the headset can deal with loud background (wind from driving; many people speaking when using public transportation).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also using it when it rains. So [IPX4](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code#Second_digit:_Liquid_ingress_protection) would be good. But I guess most headsets which are not certified are also ok with this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * &lt; 30 EUR on amazon.de: Cool!&#xD;&#xA; * [30 - 50) EUR: Acceptable&#xD;&#xA; * [50 - 80] EUR: The quality would need to be really good&#xD;&#xA; * more than 80 EUR: Let me know in the comments if you have one that you're really happy with, but that is more than I want to pay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Bad Examples&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had a couple of headsets so far and I was not super happy with any of them. Two which I had for a longer time:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Samsung EG920**: The audio quality, microphone quality and the shape of the in-ear pieces was very good. It also was super cheap (&lt; 5 EUR on Amazon). The problem is that they break super easily. In the last 6 months I had to buy 4 of them. Some broke and I have no idea why. Some broke because I got caught in the cable and pulled to hard on them (which was not super hard in the first place; after all, it was in my ear while I accidentially pulled it).&#xD;&#xA;* **Mpow Flame Bluetooth**: I bought those because I hope that they don't break that easily. The ear-pieces are uncomfortable, the audio-quality is similar to the Samsung EG920. The main problem is that the microphone is in the ear-piece. So if I'm in a loud environment and I'm on the phone, it is super hard to understand my (or I have to shout really loud)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42372" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="1164dfbf-802b-48b1-a9c4-75696146d045" CreationDate="2019-10-12T17:50:39.050" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag wireless" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42373" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="64" RevisionGUID="1164dfbf-802b-48b1-a9c4-75696146d045" CreationDate="2019-10-12T17:50:39.050" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 147 edit id of 931" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42374" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="23b8b355-540e-48ed-b6eb-f9a41305200a" CreationDate="2019-10-12T22:01:05.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42405" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="e33ad1e3-2b79-4d90-b002-2894a42e6d0d" CreationDate="2019-10-13T19:00:50.110" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42406" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12206" RevisionGUID="5586aae6-4a41-46fa-a872-cc62ac6f2695" CreationDate="2019-10-13T21:01:11.943" UserId="13753" Text="I nearly always have my smartphone with me, but hardly ever use it, I prefer my 10&quot; tablet. However I sometimes want to check calendar, mail, banking, weather radar and such. I use a belt holster and so the smaller the better.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At present I use an LG-D160 3.5&quot; model which runs Android 4.4.2 (KitKat) and only has 2G/3G reception. The smallest modern phone I could find is the Sony Xperia Compact, but that is 4.5&quot; and I regard that as too big. Wiko and Alcatel make 4&quot; models but they are 3G (and slow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not a problem (within reason, say under 1000 €/$/£) and battery life of 6 hours is enough (my LG gives me 48 hours, because I hardly ever turn it on).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer not to use Apple because [1] I don't want to pay Steve Jobs' premium (20% more quality for 80% more price) and [2] I am used to Android's flexibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does **anybody** make a small, functional phone?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42407" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12206" RevisionGUID="5586aae6-4a41-46fa-a872-cc62ac6f2695" CreationDate="2019-10-13T21:01:11.943" UserId="13753" Text="Small (&lt;4&quot;) smartphone with 4G" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42408" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12206" RevisionGUID="5586aae6-4a41-46fa-a872-cc62ac6f2695" CreationDate="2019-10-13T21:01:11.943" UserId="13753" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42412" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12208" RevisionGUID="d7e98c7f-955c-49ba-b9eb-c42cdf6e0dea" CreationDate="2019-10-14T07:39:32.247" UserId="12517" Text="What you are looking for are Panasonic's Toughbooks. They are one of the most durable laptops out there. And yes, the battery lasts quite a while. If one battery is not enough for you, it also has interchangeable batteries usable through slots on the side. It is a bit expensive though. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;E.g. a Panasonic Toughbook CF-33, which came to life around 2017 is about $3,599&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here's a video of Linus Tech Tips reviewing the latest one][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7rt6BZYscs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12209" RevisionGUID="c166fc58-e543-4b47-9294-28355efa8e86" CreationDate="2019-10-14T09:09:53.220" UserId="9356" Text="Most smartphones brands are making phones bigger and even Samsung with their multiple models they're all 5 inches or bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that said, you have a [Sony Xperia XZ2 Compact](https://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_xz2_compact-9082.php) which costs about 430 EUR. It's a compact phone with a 5-inch display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also have the [Palm Phone](https://palm.com/products/palm-unlocked) which is a 3.3-inch screen; it got Android and it's functional for your needs  but the Palm Phone has limited buy options and you can only [buy in some countries](https://palm.com/pages/buy-international). This phone costs about 350 EUR." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12209" RevisionGUID="9fde347d-a1c0-4bd1-b1cb-0cc777e0c72f" CreationDate="2019-10-14T10:36:50.110" UserId="9356" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="Most smartphones brands are making phones bigger and even Samsung phones, they're all 5 inches or bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that said, you have a [Sony Xperia XZ2 Compact](https://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_xz2_compact-9082.php) which costs about 430 EUR. It's a compact phone with a 5-inch display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also have the [Palm Phone](https://palm.com/products/palm-unlocked) which is a 3.3-inch screen; it got Android and it's functional for your needs  but the Palm Phone has limited buy options and you can only [buy in some countries](https://palm.com/pages/buy-international). This phone costs about 350 EUR." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42420" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12209" RevisionGUID="1019d8d1-c489-46f9-8621-95f087e8a65f" CreationDate="2019-10-14T13:43:19.450" UserId="9356" Comment="added 246 characters in body" Text="Most smartphones brands are making phones bigger and even Samsung phones, they're all 5 inches or bigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that said, you have a [Sony Xperia XZ2 Compact](https://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_xz2_compact-9082.php) which costs about 430 EUR. It's a compact phone with a 5-inch display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You also have the [Palm Phone](https://palm.com/products/palm-unlocked) which is a 3.3-inch screen; it got Android and it's functional for your needs  but the Palm Phone has limited buy options and you can only [buy in some countries](https://palm.com/pages/buy-international). This phone costs about 350 EUR.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although I recommended the Palm Phone, it's actually a phone with [a lot of flaws](https://www.tomsguide.com/us/palm-phone,review-6043.html) and for the retail price it's not very worth it. Go for the XZ2 phone or the one you already saw from Sony, it's not that big of a phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42421" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12211" RevisionGUID="7f284bef-43cb-421e-bcbb-f7e0d6e413cc" CreationDate="2019-10-14T14:22:41.897" UserId="13760" Text="I like &quot;small&quot; phones too, mine is a 4G / 4GB / 64GB 5' Redmi with Android. Couldn't find smaller that fits my needs. It's powerful, reliable, paid $120 for it, even if too big for you. *But* a quick search where I bought mine brought the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Melrose - 3.4&quot; - Android 8 1](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983015580.html)&#xD;&#xA;- [SOYES XS - 3&quot; - 4G LTE - Android 6.0 - 2GB / 16GB](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32985791747.html)&#xD;&#xA;- [U2 - 4G Lte - 3.15&quot; - 1GB / 8GB - Android 8.1](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33011526252.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All these are around &lt; $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(note: if links are not allowed, please tell me - I'll edit - or remove them directly)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42422" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="184ac120-6736-4d64-a806-8f7d514bfcb0" CreationDate="2019-10-14T15:02:15.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12212" RevisionGUID="d6e8193e-efc3-43f7-9944-476ed89b01f3" CreationDate="2019-10-14T16:04:06.653" UserId="476" Text="I think a device like this ['Twinkk USB C Splitter'](https://www.amazon.com/Twinkk-Converter-Headphone-Compatible-Essential/dp/B07PSB133P/) is what you're looking for. It costs **$15.99** and allows you to charge your device while also plugging in a data connection (In this case, your ASUS Zenscreen) at the same time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42515" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="fde0c9dd-4798-4dff-b76f-35891c1b0db6" CreationDate="2019-10-16T21:01:55.290" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42520" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12134" RevisionGUID="9835cef1-2bd0-4a44-9aec-6cfe492df2c9" CreationDate="2019-10-17T01:02:15.520" UserId="-1" Comment="88" />
  <row Id="42531" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="66bcef28-98fd-4c69-8772-0c65795f0b7d" CreationDate="2019-10-17T21:02:15.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12237" RevisionGUID="ec73b01f-6929-4180-ab5b-f2f95e755c2f" CreationDate="2019-10-18T21:25:35.470" UserId="13788" Text="I'm currently using a Monoprice Maker Select ($400). It's quite reliable and quite easy. I'd definitely recommend it to newcomers to 3d printing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Monoprice Select Mini is very easy to use and cheap, although the print bed is pretty small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would highly recommend the [Monoprice Select Mini Pro][1] over the standard version, as for $10 you get higher extruder and base temp as well as auto bed levelling. That alone is very valuable, and will save you a lot of time and failed prints when calibrating the bed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33012&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12238" RevisionGUID="c57cada8-70b7-4e8c-969b-22bca889e721" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:54:54.343" UserId="1410" Text="I am seeking an STM32 with wifi, BT, display and on-board debugger (I think that they all have that, but am not 100% sure; I don't want to use a JTAG probe). Does anyone know of one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42554" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12238" RevisionGUID="c57cada8-70b7-4e8c-969b-22bca889e721" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:54:54.343" UserId="1410" Text="Seeking an STM32 with wifi, BT, display and on-board debugger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42555" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12238" RevisionGUID="c57cada8-70b7-4e8c-969b-22bca889e721" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:54:54.343" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42559" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="0e8ca59b-d440-43c2-b540-cc5e367f5a09" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:58:57.090" UserId="1410" Text="I would love to use the STM32WB, but it doesn't have a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am absolutely ***not*** a hardware guy. Does anyone now of a display for STM32 which just clips on? Soldering is beyond me :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am open to OLED and also eInk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution involving a snap-on shield which lets me use Arduino shields would also be a solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42560" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="0e8ca59b-d440-43c2-b540-cc5e367f5a09" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:58:57.090" UserId="1410" Text="Seekinsg &quot;snap on&quot; dispaly for STM32" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42561" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="0e8ca59b-d440-43c2-b540-cc5e367f5a09" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:58:57.090" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12241" RevisionGUID="f945d7da-ba35-4f8e-a247-3798f1fd8857" CreationDate="2019-10-19T12:11:36.527" UserId="7222" Text="There are development boards with include STM32 and a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you can also use a breadboard or jumper wires to connect the display to your STM32 (as long as your STM32 has male or header pin headers).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42563" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12241" RevisionGUID="e719f5a7-6ce2-4cc8-86aa-a65cc3c879a5" CreationDate="2019-10-19T12:19:35.990" UserId="7222" Comment="added 306 characters in body" Text="There are many options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Chose a board with has Arduino Morph connectors like https://nl.mouser.com/new/stmicroelectronics/stm-p-nucleo-wb55/ &#xD;&#xA;  You can attach an Arduino shield (with display) on top of it? Check if there are drivers for it or examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There are development boards with include STM32 and a display, I think some STM32 Discovery boards have them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can also use a breadboard or jumper wires to connect the display to your STM32 (as long as your STM32 has male or header pin headers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42564" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="63a15d4b-48e7-4807-a981-3ca0aa5dfec4" CreationDate="2019-10-19T13:47:04.033" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="I got a new laptop (ThinkPad X1 Carbon) but it only has one USB-C port. I also have a USB-C portable monitor (Asus ZenScreen) that gets its power and data through the single port USB-C connection to the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So now I have both devices sucking battery life with no way for me to provide external power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are plenty of USB-C hubs that can pass power through to the laptop, while also providing signal output, though it seems only to full VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort outputs, none that have USB-C output....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a limitation of the USB specification?  &#xD;&#xA;Or is it a rare use-case and not enough vendors out there building such hubs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42565" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="63a15d4b-48e7-4807-a981-3ca0aa5dfec4" CreationDate="2019-10-19T13:47:04.033" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="Is there an USB-C hub for USB-C power input and USB-C display output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42566" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="63a15d4b-48e7-4807-a981-3ca0aa5dfec4" CreationDate="2019-10-19T13:47:04.033" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42567" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="63a15d4b-48e7-4807-a981-3ca0aa5dfec4" CreationDate="2019-10-19T13:47:04.033" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 13652 edit id of 932" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42575" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12115" RevisionGUID="0768081b-d1a8-4e6d-9123-81ce90434343" CreationDate="2019-10-19T18:14:40.047" UserId="8" Comment="edited title" Text="Is there a USB-C hub for USB-C power input and USB-C display output?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12245" RevisionGUID="4be8bde5-aae9-4d56-9e82-e224fc1bc313" CreationDate="2019-10-20T07:51:30.400" UserId="1410" Text="The awarded answer says &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Most microcontroller boards less than $20 do not have Bluetooth/Wifi/Eth, or LCD ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would respectfully beg to differ.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ESP32](http://esp32.net) has sold [over 100 million boards](https://www.espressif.com/en/media_overview/news/espressif-achieves-100-million-target-iot-chip-shipments) and costs from [about $4](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33057018346.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.640bb30bfx1rae&amp;algo_pvid=b785f540-136a-494e-b774-40dd031cbee9&amp;algo_expid=b785f540-136a-494e-b774-40dd031cbee9-0&amp;btsid=6bba9c8b-98ed-4f4b-acc4-8ab3b02fc46f&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_55). You can get them with display (not requested by OP) for about $12. By default, they have both [WiFi and BluteTooth](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESP32). You can get BLE 5, you can get LoRa, which will broadcast 15km with clear line of sight, you can get Zigbee; for $11, you can get [one which accepts a SIM card](https://makeradvisor.com/ttgo-t-call-esp32-with-sim800l-gsm-gprs/). They come with cameras too, and passive infrared, to detect body heat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would like to code Node.Js? Just search for `ESP32 nodejs` and you will be happily surprised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have bought dozens from AliExpress.  I recommend that you use [PlatformIO](https://platformio.org) as your IDE, and look at the docs for [board](https://docs.platformio.org/en/latest/boards/index.html) and find one with on-board debugger. Otherwise, it's a choice between buying a JTAG probe and debug by `printf()` over serial port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Being such a popular board, there is extensive documentation &amp; tutorials, but lots of support on forums (visit us at [S.E Internet of Things](https://iot.stackexchange.com/search?q=esp32).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neil Kolban has written [a great eBook](https://leanpub.com/kolban-ESP32) for which you can pay from zero to however much you like (personally, I paid zer0. Then, after reading paid what I thought it would cost if sold commercially). There are [more ESP32 books](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=esp32&amp;i=stripbooks-intl-ship&amp;ref=nb_sb_noss).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also recommend the [Random Nerd tutorials](https://randomnerdtutorials.com), which go form beginner to let's sell this puppy as a commerical product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnOtv.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42595" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12252" RevisionGUID="5d77488f-f49c-40c1-b84d-8d6b81f6bdde" CreationDate="2019-10-20T16:54:34.553" UserId="1873" Text="There is a series called STM32WB with integrated WiFi and Bluetooth, there is a [STM32WB Nucleo](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/p-nucleo-wb55.html) available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There used to be some Cypress WiFi devkits with STM32F401 or some such but I can't find them at the moment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12241" RevisionGUID="8719d31b-fbbd-43c3-b4e8-2ffecfe32e07" CreationDate="2019-10-20T19:43:11.503" UserId="7222" Comment="added 143 characters in body" Text="There are many options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Chose a board with has Arduino Morph connectors like https://nl.mouser.com/new/stmicroelectronics/stm-p-nucleo-wb55/ &#xD;&#xA;  You can attach an Arduino shield (with display) on top of it? Check if there are drivers for it or examples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- There are development boards with include STM32 and a display, I think some STM32 Discovery boards have them. Although according to https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/stm32-discovery-kits.html#products it seems none has STM32WB (with WB) and a TFT.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- You can also use a breadboard or jumper wires to connect the display to your STM32 (as long as your STM32 has male or header pin headers).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12252" RevisionGUID="bf13e4e5-ce9e-4d2d-a997-0c976c6b8d6c" CreationDate="2019-10-20T19:43:28.563" UserId="1873" Comment="added 150 characters in body" Text="There is a series called STM32WB with integrated WiFi and Bluetooth, there is a [STM32WB Nucleo](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/p-nucleo-wb55.html) available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is also an [F413 discovery board](https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/evaluation-tools/product-evaluation-tools/mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-discovery-kits/32f413hdiscovery.html) but it doesn't have Bluetooth, WiFi only." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42610" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="cac3e871-ceb9-4bf2-9add-b04b48afe863" CreationDate="2019-10-21T05:57:36.250" UserId="7222" Comment="Typo fixing" Text="I would love to use the STM32WB, but it doesn't have a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am absolutely ***not*** a hardware guy. Does anyone now of a display for STM32 which just clips on? Soldering is beyond me :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am open to OLED and also eInk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution involving a snap-on shield which lets me use Arduino shields would also be a solution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42611" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="cac3e871-ceb9-4bf2-9add-b04b48afe863" CreationDate="2019-10-21T05:57:36.250" UserId="7222" Comment="Typo fixing" Text="Seeing a &quot;snap on&quot; display for STM32" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42612" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="cac3e871-ceb9-4bf2-9add-b04b48afe863" CreationDate="2019-10-21T05:57:36.250" Comment="Proposed by 7222 approved by -1 edit id of 933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="1f510540-a22c-424c-ac11-b63812bb3563" CreationDate="2019-10-21T05:57:36.250" UserId="1410" Comment="Typo fixing - I did mean seeking" Text="I would love to use the STM32WB, but it doesn't have a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am absolutely ***not*** a hardware guy. Does anyone now of a display for STM32 which just clips on? Soldering is beyond me :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am open to OLED and also eInk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution involving a snap-on shield which lets me use Arduino shields would also be a solution.    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42614" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12240" RevisionGUID="1f510540-a22c-424c-ac11-b63812bb3563" CreationDate="2019-10-21T05:57:36.250" UserId="1410" Comment="Typo fixing - I did mean seeking" Text="Seeking a &quot;snap on&quot; display for STM32" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12254" RevisionGUID="eab081de-86c1-4bdb-89aa-dbe59fa1b4d1" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:43:41.467" UserId="13802" Text="I am in need of a label printer that can be configured to generate unique IDs for barcodes without having to edit the ID for each label manually (the demonstrations I have seen online will edit it individual while creating a template so I am uncertain if this is possible). e.g. print 1000 labels assigning each one a unique ID.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the labels to be small enough to fit on a mouse.&#xD;&#xA;Price below £300 would be nice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is appreciated, thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42619" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12254" RevisionGUID="eab081de-86c1-4bdb-89aa-dbe59fa1b4d1" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:43:41.467" UserId="13802" Text="Barcode Label Printer (MUST auto generate unique id)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42620" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12254" RevisionGUID="eab081de-86c1-4bdb-89aa-dbe59fa1b4d1" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:43:41.467" UserId="13802" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42636" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12258" RevisionGUID="7d00c605-49c8-4388-a9bd-440d8c593ac2" CreationDate="2019-10-22T00:08:41.037" UserId="10315" Text="Seems it's hard to find laptops with only USB-C and no USB-A. It's also hard to find laptops with Wi-Fi 6. The laptop would charge using the USB-C port only. &#xA;&#xA;Do you know any with a combination of these? Like an updated Zenbook 3." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42637" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12258" RevisionGUID="7d00c605-49c8-4388-a9bd-440d8c593ac2" CreationDate="2019-10-22T00:08:41.037" UserId="10315" Text="Laptop with Wi-Fi 6 and only USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42638" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12258" RevisionGUID="7d00c605-49c8-4388-a9bd-440d8c593ac2" CreationDate="2019-10-22T00:08:41.037" UserId="10315" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12260" RevisionGUID="d5690bec-e0c3-4556-b3a5-575304f8a683" CreationDate="2019-10-22T08:32:51.437" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="I work in an office that can be very chatty at times. In order to concentrate during noise peaks, I need headphones with very good noise cancellation.&#xD;&#xA;I tried the Bose QC35 when they were released, since they allegedly had some of the best noise cancellation. This was before ANC was nerfed by firmware updates.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they just did not cut it for me. While the active noise cancellation is pretty good overall, it does a poor job at filtering out voices and speaker phone calls.&#xD;&#xA;Adding more noise to drown the ambient noises (i.e. playing music) works, but only if I set the volume so high that it gets distracting by itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any ANC headphones that do a better job than the Bose QC35, especially for cancelling out conversations and phone calls?&#xD;&#xA;Using passive noise cancellation would not be socially accepted in the environment I work at, so ANC headphones it is ;)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42643" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12260" RevisionGUID="d5690bec-e0c3-4556-b3a5-575304f8a683" CreationDate="2019-10-22T08:32:51.437" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Noise-cancelling headphones better than Bose QC35" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42644" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12260" RevisionGUID="d5690bec-e0c3-4556-b3a5-575304f8a683" CreationDate="2019-10-22T08:32:51.437" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12262" RevisionGUID="3a9466cd-f397-457a-b8b1-591f706afcd5" CreationDate="2019-10-22T13:24:09.390" UserId="12517" Text="I understand and feel your pain in an almost daily occurrence! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally use the Sony WH-1000XM3. I find it to be a lot better than the Bose you mentioned. It's a bit cheaper than the Bose as well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Link for the headset](https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Noise-Cancelling-Headphones-WH1000XM3/dp/B07G4MNFS1)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12266" RevisionGUID="b97ac5fc-fa29-4ea4-b737-6947d48d65c9" CreationDate="2019-10-23T00:26:10.500" UserId="13813" Text="So I got a whole bunch of monitors (A LOT) and from the collection there are about 6 identical 17&quot; 4/3 ratio monitors that I wish to make a grid from (3x2 forming 12/6 or 2/1 wide ratio). I want all six displays to form one display and be connected to one port on my computer. So in other words, I want them acting as sub-displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know it is possible to achieve this using software and by having all monitors connected directly to the computer. But I do not have enough ports for them and I am using GTX 1080 to handle my 3 main displays setup (this should be an extra). And I also wish for the configuration to work with my laptop when necessary (has HDMI port). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, is there a hardware setup that is affordable and can be used to unify these monitors as one? If so, where can I find it?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42665" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12266" RevisionGUID="b97ac5fc-fa29-4ea4-b737-6947d48d65c9" CreationDate="2019-10-23T00:26:10.500" UserId="13813" Text="Combining identical monitors to form one large display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42666" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12266" RevisionGUID="b97ac5fc-fa29-4ea4-b737-6947d48d65c9" CreationDate="2019-10-23T00:26:10.500" UserId="13813" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12267" RevisionGUID="68586fc6-c304-4017-bd57-29788467225a" CreationDate="2019-10-23T03:58:24.780" UserId="1873" Text="In your budget, if you are alright with clamshell **and** bleeding edge: you might want to wait for the new Moto Razr. It is still a few months away, but it incorporates what you care about the most - it will be tiny when folded (as compared to modern phones). It will likely be released before the end of the year, next year MWC should be the latest (end of February 2020)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12268" RevisionGUID="55d8f0b6-1e99-4b89-acb7-2798157e88a4" CreationDate="2019-10-23T15:03:47.630" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; is there a hardware setup that is affordable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind of device you are looking for is called a [Video Wall Controller](https://www.google.com/search?q=video+wall+controller) and they are typically a commercial-use device for store signage, billboards, restaurant menus, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are in the ball park of $1000 for one that can do up to 8 displays." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12268" RevisionGUID="0cc38be2-b673-4691-889a-6e0b39a2d73a" CreationDate="2019-10-23T15:08:51.013" UserId="10648" Comment="added 153 characters in body" Text="&gt; is there a hardware setup that is affordable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind of device you are looking for is called a [Video Wall Controller](https://www.google.com/search?q=video+wall+controller) and they are typically a commercial-use device for store signage, billboards, restaurant menus, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of them are actually standalone devices that render their own output from a video file or website, and do not always support direct video input. Make sure you any model you are interested in *does* have a video input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are in the ball park of $1000 for one that can do up to 8 displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; But I do not have enough ports for them and I am using GTX 1080 to handle my 3 main displays setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can sometimes install more than one GPU in a computer, and for $1000 you could definitely find a GPU that supports 6 displays using DisplayPort outputs. Each monitor will probably also need an **active** DisplayPort adapter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12268" RevisionGUID="02656a25-05e9-43dd-b742-ec3f2003de25" CreationDate="2019-10-23T15:14:23.107" UserId="10648" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="&gt; is there a hardware setup that is affordable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The kind of device you are looking for is called a [Video Wall Controller](https://www.google.com/search?q=video+wall+controller) and they are typically a commercial-use device for store signage, billboards, restaurant menus, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many of them are actually standalone devices that render their own output from a video file or website, and do not always support direct video input. Make sure you any model you are interested in *does* have a video input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are in the ball park of $1000 for one that can do up to 8 displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; But I do not have enough ports for them and I am using GTX 1080 to handle my 3 main displays setup&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can sometimes install more than one GPU in a computer, and for $1000 you could definitely find a GPU that supports 6 displays using DisplayPort outputs. Many GPUs can support small (2x2, 1x3, etc) video walls with hardware acceleration, so it is a proper &quot;hardware&quot; solution. Each monitor will probably also need an **active** DisplayPort adapter unless they have a DisplayPort input." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12271" RevisionGUID="8284407f-88c7-4b93-9dd0-70c744c6765d" CreationDate="2019-10-23T19:15:12.557" UserId="9691" Text="The monitor is going to be used mostly for office work (programming and browsing) and occasionally for watching a film.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have the following properties:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Very low minimum brightness: Monitors I’ve used so far have had a minimum brightness of around 60 cd/m² (according to the &quot;PRAD&quot; review site), which I found a bit too high when working in an otherwise dark  room.&#xD;&#xA; - no PWM, as it will be used for many hours in a row&#xD;&#xA; - 4K UHD (actually I prefer 16:10, but I know that this is currently hard to get together with the other requirements.)&#xD;&#xA; - I like the 27&quot; size, but I could probably get used to a bigger size.&#xD;&#xA; - height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally, it should have Adaptive-Sync (FreeSync), in case I have a Adaptive-Sync-capable graphics adapter at some point. But at least, it should be possible that it can play 24 Hz content without judder (by setting my graphics adapter output to 24 Hz)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42678" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12271" RevisionGUID="8284407f-88c7-4b93-9dd0-70c744c6765d" CreationDate="2019-10-23T19:15:12.557" UserId="9691" Text="Monitor: very low minimum brightness, 4K UHD, 27&quot; (or higher)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42679" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12271" RevisionGUID="8284407f-88c7-4b93-9dd0-70c744c6765d" CreationDate="2019-10-23T19:15:12.557" UserId="9691" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42684" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12052" RevisionGUID="c302d6c8-fef2-4c27-bebc-3e80b8d8729f" CreationDate="2019-10-23T21:01:00.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12274" RevisionGUID="bc191c60-ff51-487b-ba8b-ce0799e53c90" CreationDate="2019-10-23T22:01:33.313" UserId="13821" Text="I'm trying to develop a mobile app that use physical bluetooth button to interact with the app and invoke one (or more) functions.&#xD;&#xA;I found two possible solutions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Use media button and emulate media app behavior within my app. It results in strange behavior when my app is off and then phone vols up, starts music etc.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Use Flic that uses their button and their app as a proxy for the button. You have to define bahavior in the Flic app that invokes bahavior in your app. The limitation here is Flic proxy app that must be installed and used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any other solution? Which way I should go if I look for a button that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- will be stable and robust (no hacks)&#xD;&#xA;- will be able to order less than 100 pcs&#xD;&#xA;- will be programmed especially for my app&#xD;&#xA;- will have nice SDK support&#xD;&#xA;- will work with Android and iOS app&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42686" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12274" RevisionGUID="bc191c60-ff51-487b-ba8b-ce0799e53c90" CreationDate="2019-10-23T22:01:33.313" UserId="13821" Text="Programmable bluetooth button for Android and iOS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42687" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12274" RevisionGUID="bc191c60-ff51-487b-ba8b-ce0799e53c90" CreationDate="2019-10-23T22:01:33.313" UserId="13821" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12294" RevisionGUID="6d454704-3948-4d7b-aad7-8038134b04d5" CreationDate="2019-10-26T22:51:58.670" UserId="1329" Text="I recently heard about [Haven Keep Watch][1] on [AskNoah][2]. It sounds like what I was looking for to keep watch on my laptop, bike or luggage when I'm travelling. It's Open Source. No special hardware requirement or contract opposed to similar IoT offerings I have seen recently to protect bikes against theft and it leverages sensor input of what you come to expect from an inexpensive smartphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a basic device to run Haven Keep Watch that should be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;  - Could be given to a friend if they might be in need for such a thing at some point and are not yet convinced to get one for themselves.&#xD;&#xA;  - *Not* considered to be used as a media consumption device. No private data stored. No data lost.&#xD;&#xA;- Not flashy. Boring looks preferred.&#xD;&#xA;  - Doesn't have to have a big screen and thin profile. A thick, small candy bar type that looks more like an inexpensive bicycle computer would be better.&#xD;&#xA;  - No emphasize on precious materials like exposed and brushed or polished aluminum or steel, attractive colors or shiny curved glass. Even a 5 years old unusable and dated flagship or midrage device attracts attention to thieves or just nosy people.&#xD;&#xA;  - No &quot;tactical&quot; or &quot;stealth&quot; futuristic design as found in gaming equipment. For the same reasons as above, plus it's a sad joke on the meaning of stealth.&#xD;&#xA;- Reliable.&#xD;&#xA;  - Some sort of protection against spill water, rain and dust would be a bonus. Hot glue and a plastic bag or tape would also do the trick.&#xD;&#xA;  - Running a recent version of Android or **Android One** (available in Europe in 2019/2020). Focus on security patches and available OS APIs rather than bling.&#xD;&#xA;  - No &quot;military grade&quot; quality touted by marketing people who apparently never operated reliable military or firefighter gear.&#xD;&#xA;  - Can take a beating, is RoHS compliant and mostly sustainable is good enough. Probably replaceable parts available online. Yes, I know about fairphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I have a Pixel 4, Pixel XL, Nexus 5 and a Lumia 730. The latter is a Windows Phone, so that's out. It's also old and too flashy/pretty with its orange Nokia style cover. A [Nokia Lumia 620](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nokia_Lumia_620) with black cover, which I once had, comes close to what I think would be good. Nexus 5 is quite big, brittle and flimsy after 6 years, battery needs to be replaced again. Still attracts to much attention as a former flagship or developer device for my taste. My mother got a Moto E and Moto G2 a few years back, these also come close, terribly outdated today, sold long ago, current models still look expensive and attractive to thieves from my point of view. Pixel XL is becoming my new secondary phone. Still looks expensive to people. Taping it up would make it even more interesting I think. There will be a Purism Librem 5 at some point when it ships to me, that's another story, not an Android device and on the expensive end.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So yeah expertise from someone who knows the entry and budget range of the market would be appreciated. I guess the candy bar type thing with basic hardware I have in mind does not exist, but a recommendation for a decent budget phone as a second/third (Android) device would be good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://github.com/guardianproject/haven&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.asknoahshow.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42767" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12294" RevisionGUID="6d454704-3948-4d7b-aad7-8038134b04d5" CreationDate="2019-10-26T22:51:58.670" UserId="1329" Text="Looking for inexpensive secondary device capable of running Haven Keep Watch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42768" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12294" RevisionGUID="6d454704-3948-4d7b-aad7-8038134b04d5" CreationDate="2019-10-26T22:51:58.670" UserId="1329" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12299" RevisionGUID="f7c943ac-c478-4066-ae33-a60ff9032a3a" CreationDate="2019-10-27T19:59:19.897" UserId="13847" Text="Recommend a laptop which is portable, good display, backlit and ergonomic keyboard in a price range less than 1500$. It should have i7 quad core or higher, 8gb or 16gb ram, 256 gb ssd or more, touchpad should be as large as possible. Companies preferred : Dell, HP, Apple, Lenovo and maybe asus. Decent graphic card for ml and dl purposes is good but it should not hinder portability." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42783" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12299" RevisionGUID="f7c943ac-c478-4066-ae33-a60ff9032a3a" CreationDate="2019-10-27T19:59:19.897" UserId="13847" Text="Laptop recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42784" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12299" RevisionGUID="f7c943ac-c478-4066-ae33-a60ff9032a3a" CreationDate="2019-10-27T19:59:19.897" UserId="13847" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12300" RevisionGUID="66ef00b5-848a-4d5b-9ef2-3f4171c02256" CreationDate="2019-10-28T09:12:03.023" UserId="13855" Text="I want to be able to manage my home server remotely and be able to turn it on/off at the hardware level (in case it hangs), preferably with the ability to see VGA output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at something like the [Peppercon eRIC Express card](https://www.kvmchoice.com/detail_switch.asp?id=1234) but it isn't being manufactured anymore and I wanted to go for a more modern solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;KVM over IP seems like a popular option, so I wanted to either get recommendations on a particular solution or any alternatives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My system is on PC Part Picker [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MdN8Bb)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12300" RevisionGUID="66ef00b5-848a-4d5b-9ef2-3f4171c02256" CreationDate="2019-10-28T09:12:03.023" UserId="13855" Text="Server remote management solution with hardware reset and VGA output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12300" RevisionGUID="66ef00b5-848a-4d5b-9ef2-3f4171c02256" CreationDate="2019-10-28T09:12:03.023" UserId="13855" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;vga&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="954976c1-f4a6-4143-bbab-4628b3565d92" CreationDate="2019-10-29T00:53:27.120" UserId="7595" Text="I'm looking for a singleboard computer or system on module that can handle simultaneous 4k HDMI input and output (optimally at 60hz)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="954976c1-f4a6-4143-bbab-4628b3565d92" CreationDate="2019-10-29T00:53:27.120" UserId="7595" Text="Singleboartd Computer or System on Module under 100$ that can handle 4k HDMI in + out" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="954976c1-f4a6-4143-bbab-4628b3565d92" CreationDate="2019-10-29T00:53:27.120" UserId="7595" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12307" RevisionGUID="b19ade3a-c290-4436-8c2b-389c0161125e" CreationDate="2019-10-29T19:24:36.540" UserId="13864" Text="I am looking for a laptop that can run debian/ubuntu out of the box without going nuts over wifi drivers and I could use your suggestions. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Modern intel processor&#xD;&#xA;- At least 16GB Ram&#xD;&#xA;- At least 256 SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Wifi&#xD;&#xA;- Light if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I am concerned on privacy. The computer must *not have*:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- No camera&#xD;&#xA;- No microphone&#xD;&#xA;- No biometrics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even if it means getting an old laptop refurbished.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42828" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12307" RevisionGUID="b19ade3a-c290-4436-8c2b-389c0161125e" CreationDate="2019-10-29T19:24:36.540" UserId="13864" Text="Powerful Debian/Ubuntu Laptop without intrusive hardware" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42829" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12307" RevisionGUID="b19ade3a-c290-4436-8c2b-389c0161125e" CreationDate="2019-10-29T19:24:36.540" UserId="13864" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42830" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12307" RevisionGUID="9d5b15f2-b2d4-4145-8135-600f1ebcf876" CreationDate="2019-10-29T19:35:43.447" UserId="13864" Comment="added 257 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop that can run debian/ubuntu out of the box without going nuts over wifi drivers and I could use your suggestions. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Modern intel processor&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB - 32GB Ram&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB+ SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Acceptable battery life&#xD;&#xA;- Does not overheat&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I am concerned with privacy. The computer must *not have*:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- No camera&#xD;&#xA;- No microphone&#xD;&#xA;- No biometrics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other nice things I don't need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No full hd screen or pixel-dense-screen. I can't see that many pixels anyway.&#xD;&#xA;- No touch screen&#xD;&#xA;- Not 2&amp;1 screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In plain words, I want an old-fashioned laptop equipped with a modern processor and ssd harddrive that is debian/ubuntu verified, without all the intrusive hardware that inevitably comes with modern laptops and seems impossible to get rid of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if any company creates laptops with this flavor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42831" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12307" RevisionGUID="f3a83c5a-af2a-45f3-ba06-3f01949436d0" CreationDate="2019-10-29T20:23:23.190" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a laptop that can run debian/ubuntu out of the box without going nuts over wifi drivers and I could use your suggestions. I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Modern intel processor&#xD;&#xA;- 16GB - 32GB Ram&#xD;&#xA;- 256GB+ SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Acceptable battery life&#xD;&#xA;- Does not overheat&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I am concerned with privacy. The computer must *not have*:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;- Camera&#xD;&#xA;- Microphone&#xD;&#xA;- Biometrics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other nice things I don't need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- No full hd screen or pixel-dense-screen. I can't see that many pixels anyway.&#xD;&#xA;- No touch screen&#xD;&#xA;- Not 2-in-1 screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In plain words, I want an old-fashioned laptop equipped with a modern processor and ssd harddrive that is debian/ubuntu verified, without all the intrusive hardware that inevitably comes with modern laptops and seems impossible to get rid of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if any company creates laptops with this flavor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42836" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="56f52a6e-ec81-4e80-ac2c-105a133ca721" CreationDate="2019-10-29T21:02:20.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12320" RevisionGUID="bf5e8f0c-618a-41ac-b841-aff492ee475a" CreationDate="2019-10-31T03:13:46.497" UserId="13881" Text="Maybe Dell G7 7588 is good to you.&#xD;&#xA;Product Specification - Dell G7 7588&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;KEY SPECIFICATIONS:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Display: 15.6&quot; Anti-Glare LED Back-lit Display (1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Processor:8th Generation Intel Core i7-8750H (9MB Cache, 2.2 GHz up to 4.1 GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Memory: 16GB DDR4 RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Hard drive size: 256GB Solid State Drive + 1TB Hard Drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Operating system: Windows 10 Home, 64-bit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Video:  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 -6GB with Max-Q&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Audio: Waves MaxxAudio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Ports: 3 x USB Type-A, 1 x USB 3.1 Type-C, 1 x HDMI, Headphone + Microphone Combo Jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Wireless: WiFi 802.11AC, Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Dimensions: 15.3 x 0.93 x 10.8&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Features: Built-in Webcam&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•Weight: 5.07 lbs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check amazon website for more information https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FLPG56B/ref=psdc_13896615011_t1_B07DTJW6K3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42879" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12321" RevisionGUID="1571aadc-3586-47c4-9692-a6414dabc8e4" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:16:39.000" UserId="1410" Text="I would like to recuperate my youth and play around with Zx81, BBC Micro, Commodore Amiga, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these us a TV as display, and in Europe take PAL input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend something very, very cheap to use as a monitor? It doesn't have to be a TV, a CCTV monitor might work I guess. Just so long as it displays a PAL input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the PCs, image quality is not an important factor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42880" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12321" RevisionGUID="1571aadc-3586-47c4-9692-a6414dabc8e4" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:16:39.000" UserId="1410" Text="Cheapest possible TV or monitor to use with retro PCs (PAL)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42881" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12321" RevisionGUID="1571aadc-3586-47c4-9692-a6414dabc8e4" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:16:39.000" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42882" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="c125fdc5-a451-4f47-b9d3-adf7ea54e208" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:33:07.643" UserId="1410" Text="I am looking for a cheap, programmable drone, for use in UK, to use in a Minimal Viable Product for a system that will later use more highly spec’ed drones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to accept a programmed flight plan (*)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to carry an ESP32 (approx. 10g) and a coin cell battery (2.9g), possibly an altimeter of GPS sensor (I would guess 5g, max 10g)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Long flight time is not important, but I would like 5, preferably 10 minutes  &#xD;&#xA;•	Outdoor use, not indoor, although I can live with being restricted to calm days  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(*) I am not sure if UK law requires a hum drone operator, rather than a programmed flight plan. If that’s the law, I will comply, but I have a strong preference for programming a series of waypoints. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42883" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="c125fdc5-a451-4f47-b9d3-adf7ea54e208" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:33:07.643" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap, programmable drone, for use in UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42884" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="c125fdc5-a451-4f47-b9d3-adf7ea54e208" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:33:07.643" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42885" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="3646dbf2-4737-48ad-98f5-86f3f35f68bf" CreationDate="2019-10-31T13:02:50.373" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="42886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12323" RevisionGUID="62de6bab-5c9c-47b8-9169-373b7d6d6104" CreationDate="2019-10-31T13:30:40.970" UserId="13885" Text="please recommend me a temperature logger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Log temperature in every minute OR log hourly minimum,maximum in every hour&#xD;&#xA; - Centigrades preferred to e.g. Fahrenheit&#xD;&#xA; - It requires intervention only monthly or even less frequently, so for instance:&#xD;&#xA;  - Can operate without a computer or external power source attached for at least a month (and can tell if it's due to replace/charge the battery in the next month, removable battery would be preferred)&#xD;&#xA;  - Has sufficient storage (or SD card capability) for at least one month worth of data&#xD;&#xA; - Supported by linux, preferably ubuntu&#xD;&#xA; - CSV time,temperature output would be preferred to any other more complex output file formats&#xD;&#xA; - USB communication is preferred to bluetooth. Bluetooth is preferred to RS232&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42887" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12323" RevisionGUID="62de6bab-5c9c-47b8-9169-373b7d6d6104" CreationDate="2019-10-31T13:30:40.970" UserId="13885" Text="standalone temperature logger for linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42888" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12323" RevisionGUID="62de6bab-5c9c-47b8-9169-373b7d6d6104" CreationDate="2019-10-31T13:30:40.970" UserId="13885" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12328" RevisionGUID="c21e9fcc-1f31-40dc-9d53-71fa7f9e3f68" CreationDate="2019-11-01T10:21:34.903" UserId="9211" Text="&#xA;&#xA;I am a post-doc researcher working on computational modelling projects. &#xA;&#xA;In my spare time, I like to code open-source projects on some topics outside of my university role. I intend to set up a low-cost home workstation for this purpose which shall also double up as a small NFS server for the family. &#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, due to family commitments and medical bills, I can't afford a high end machine.&#xA;&#xA;Are there any NUC or other mini PCs out there that have 4 physical cores for below £250 ($300) in the UK? Considering that adding RAM in a mini pc is quite difficult, I am thinking about 8GB DDR4 RAM. It will probably run CentOS or Ubuntu server." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42923" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12328" RevisionGUID="c21e9fcc-1f31-40dc-9d53-71fa7f9e3f68" CreationDate="2019-11-01T10:21:34.903" UserId="9211" Text="Low cost quad-core mini pc options" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42924" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12328" RevisionGUID="c21e9fcc-1f31-40dc-9d53-71fa7f9e3f68" CreationDate="2019-11-01T10:21:34.903" UserId="9211" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42944" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12332" RevisionGUID="5c5a1105-34d2-44a6-9eb9-36444500315e" CreationDate="2019-11-03T16:12:42.083" UserId="10476" Text="You should definitely go to Intel Xeon E3-1225v6 3.30GHz, because it's the only that has AVX2, game changer for image processing, supported by compilers, OpenCV, FFMPEG, etc, and it probably won't compensate the lack of hyperthreading. It also has 14nm (vs. 22|32) and several generations of enhancements of the architecture, which increases efficiency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12335" RevisionGUID="f43d380f-d863-475a-a230-209014f296db" CreationDate="2019-11-04T16:10:35.890" UserDisplayName="user13866" Text="For your PC, I would recommend having an M.2 SSD, as they are faster than normal SATA ones because they interface directly with the motherboard. For you specific needs I would recommend the 1TB version of the Samsung 970 PRO. While on the expensive side, it is fast (3500 MBps reads and 2700 MBps writes) and last longer (5 years) than a lot of other SSDs and has lots of built in software features, such as full drive encryption and SSD toolbox and cloning software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your HDD, I would recommend either a WD Blue or a WD Red. The Blue is a standard HDD with no exceptional qualities, other than a lower price tag than any other WD drive. The Red is typically for servers and therefore has lots of features designed to keep data as long as possible without corrupting any of it. It also has lots of recovery features. Whichever one fits your needs more, I would recommend getting the 4TB versions as that should be more than enough for your needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For RAM while it does not really matter what RAM you get, you should get at least 32 GB. My personal choice would be the 2 16GB version of the Corsair Vengeance LPX.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the graphics cards, of all the 10 series card, I would recommend the 1080 or the 1080 Ti, as these cards have the most CUDA cores for you to work with (2560 and 3584 respectively) but I would go with the 1080 over the 1080 Ti as it has a higher base and boost clock rate." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42970" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12274" RevisionGUID="90b1f96e-002c-4a03-8c10-ccb718fce0e2" CreationDate="2019-11-04T17:02:44.843" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag apple" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42971" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12274" RevisionGUID="90b1f96e-002c-4a03-8c10-ccb718fce0e2" CreationDate="2019-11-04T17:02:44.843" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42995" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="5379bb4e-558e-4fef-b013-cafea7905bce" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:29:13.550" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tag cheap" Text="&lt;cheap&gt;&lt;3d-printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42996" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7032" RevisionGUID="5379bb4e-558e-4fef-b013-cafea7905bce" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:29:13.550" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 5445 edit id of 940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42997" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12341" RevisionGUID="34fd392b-3207-411e-a01c-32d930b37c66" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:36:07.163" UserId="5949" Text="It is generally advised not to watch screens before going to bed, as it interferes with the natural melatonin cycle. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I was hoping to find an e-ink monitor for my PC, just for text editing and email. However, e-ink displays are slow to refresh, so scrolling through text/webpages is frustrating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I was thinking if there is a reflective LCD monitor for my PC, that reflects light rather than transmitting it. I know the technology of reflective LCD exists, but is there actually a consumer-grade PC monitor with this? I haven't been able to find it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42998" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12341" RevisionGUID="34fd392b-3207-411e-a01c-32d930b37c66" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:36:07.163" UserId="5949" Text="Reflective LCD PC monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42999" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12341" RevisionGUID="34fd392b-3207-411e-a01c-32d930b37c66" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:36:07.163" UserId="5949" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43007" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12344" RevisionGUID="129d407f-1826-4869-a9a2-a0512e7d84ea" CreationDate="2019-11-05T21:57:24.663" UserId="1977" Text="I would like to know if exists a Zebra thermal printer suitable for browser printing.&#xA;I'm looking for something like the TM &quot;i&quot; (intelligent) Epson series, in that case, the printer is reachable by the browser using the local network and exchanging Http messages.&#xA;&#xA;That solution was really nice because let be usable by almost all devices with a browser (phone, tablets) and not only by a computer of a custom app. &#xA;&#xA;Do you know if exists some Zebra printer for this purpose? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43008" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12344" RevisionGUID="129d407f-1826-4869-a9a2-a0512e7d84ea" CreationDate="2019-11-05T21:57:24.663" UserId="1977" Text="Zebra thermal printer for browser printing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43009" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12344" RevisionGUID="129d407f-1826-4869-a9a2-a0512e7d84ea" CreationDate="2019-11-05T21:57:24.663" UserId="1977" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;point-of-sale&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43014" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="155" RevisionGUID="2e5b5b1d-b9ec-450a-bae8-159bf6037cca" CreationDate="2019-11-06T15:22:04.743" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43025" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="f0f23ba6-0c61-4e10-b39f-4dd440f79a50" CreationDate="2019-11-07T09:53:41.397" UserId="13917" Text="For a home project I'm looking for a device which will only ever show a web page, mounted on a wall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I could buy a cheap tablet for that, but I don't like the idea of having a device connected to a charger 24/7, when it was designed to only be charged occasionally. Are there any devices out there which are low cost and designed to be connected to power to work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other aspects I'm looking for, of varying importance:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 7-10 inch screen (color required, but high resolution not important)&#xD;&#xA; - Screen can be set up to turn on/off at given times and stay on for hours at a time.&#xD;&#xA; - Can be set up to boot to a web page by default.&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally the page should show, but a user cannot access anything else without authenticating. &#xD;&#xA; - I wouldn't mind a touch screen, but that's not at all important." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43026" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="f0f23ba6-0c61-4e10-b39f-4dd440f79a50" CreationDate="2019-11-07T09:53:41.397" UserId="13917" Text="Tablet like without battery/smart screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43027" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="f0f23ba6-0c61-4e10-b39f-4dd440f79a50" CreationDate="2019-11-07T09:53:41.397" UserId="13917" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43028" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="02adab3f-01b5-4a56-8884-98dc5cd8b694" CreationDate="2019-11-07T14:03:00.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="9f124b8a-b427-455b-918b-b827f311daa0" CreationDate="2019-11-07T20:51:49.670" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 146 characters in body" Text="I have been reading a lot of things in the internet today about power supplies and I still cannot come to a conclusion on what exact PSU should I buy. The image below shows what I think is my power needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several power supplies that have, for instance, 500w, but the price range varies hugely where there are more expensive power supplies with lower wattage than the cheaper ones. Isn't the wattage the main thing that most people refer to when buying a PSU for their PC needs? Why do I need to consider 80 bronze vs 80 gold? Full modular vs not? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[80 Bronze]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic ECO PLUS 500, 500 watts - $43.78&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic ECO PLUS 600, 600 watts - $51.27&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12II, 520 watts - $58.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12II, 620 watts - $68.94&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic M12II, 520 watts, Full modular - $68.94&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic M12II Evo, 620 watts, Full modular - $77.19 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**[80 Gold]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic S12G, 550 watts - $77.19&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the cheapest possible PSU I can get without the risk of destroying my RX 570 GPU or any other components in my computer? I do not want any super high quality power supply that is expensive or anything that will end up destroying my components. Can I use an old (10 years old), generic, working PSU (my current one) that is like $10-$15 cheap that has 600w, but combine it with a surge protector and not risk my components from being fried? I only had a built in GPU in my motherboard until now where I plan to buy the RX 570. So I never had large power needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JUYY.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="13b091a4-46fd-462d-8051-0fa72aa89a70" CreationDate="2019-11-07T22:04:57.180" UserId="10648" Text="First, let me preface this answer by cautioning you against using a VR or AR headset for a desktop environment at all. The technology is still in rapid development, the HMDs have noticeably low resolution, and making regular desktop software work for you in VR will be an uphill battle that drops productivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like [Microsoft's HoloLens](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/hololens) is probably the type of HMD you're looking for. However, that's not really a consumer friendly product yet. ($3500 USD!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little less expensive is the [Magic Leap](https://www.magicleap.com/) at $2295 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These AR headsets are still in the early adoption phase, where developers and companies are still experimenting and finding uses for them. They are not intended for consumer use and the software you require may not even exist yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were OK with VR headsets that obstruct your view of the keyboard, you could use basically *any* VR headset. There is already software like [Virtual Desktop](https://www.vrdesktop.net/) for most VR headsets. (And [another](https://arcan-fe.com/2018/03/29/safespaces-an-open-source-vr-desktop/) for Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a tricky thing to answer. The resolution of the headset ultimately determines the sharpness of text or the detail of objects in 3D virtual space, because virtual objects must be [rasterized](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasterisation) onto the pixels of that display. The &quot;desktop space&quot; you can use is practically unlimited, considering that you would be free to arrange and resize virtual windows however you want. The actual resolution of these virtual windows that you would really be seeing varies, and it would depend on multiple factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the texture mapped to the virtual surface&#xD;&#xA;- The position &amp; orientation of the virtual surface from your viewpoint&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the HMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:  &#xD;&#xA;You could be looking at a virtual screen with 16,000 x 9,000 pixels the size of your thumbnail. Even though there's a very high resolution in the virtual space, it needs to be projected onto your HMD display, and at the size of your thumb it may be 160x90 pixels on the display. Which would make it impossible to see the detail.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you did have a 360° panorama of virtual desktop, you could just let the software rotate it instead of turning your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43049" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="a21c627d-dc32-4141-9cdb-929a960d4ad1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T22:10:06.253" UserId="10648" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="First, let me preface this answer by cautioning you against using a VR or AR headset for a desktop environment at all. The technology is still in rapid development, the HMDs have noticeably low resolution, and making regular desktop software work for you in VR will be an uphill battle that drops productivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like [Microsoft's HoloLens](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/hololens) is probably the type of HMD you're looking for. However, that's not really a consumer friendly product yet. ($3500 USD!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little less expensive is the [Magic Leap](https://www.magicleap.com/) at $2295 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These AR headsets are still in the early adoption phase, where developers and companies are still experimenting and finding uses for them. They are not intended for consumer use and the software you require may not even exist yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you were OK with VR headsets that obstruct your view of the keyboard, you could use basically *any* VR headset. There is already software like [Virtual Desktop](https://www.vrdesktop.net/) for most VR headsets. (And [another](https://arcan-fe.com/2018/03/29/safespaces-an-open-source-vr-desktop/) for Linux)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a tricky thing to answer. The resolution of the headset ultimately determines the sharpness of text or the detail of objects in 3D virtual space, because virtual objects must be [rasterized](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasterisation) onto the pixels of that display. The &quot;desktop space&quot; you can use is practically unlimited, considering that you would be free to arrange and resize virtual windows however you want. The actual resolution of these virtual windows that you would really be seeing varies, and it would depend on multiple factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the texture mapped to the virtual surface&#xD;&#xA;- The position &amp; orientation of the virtual surface from your viewpoint&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the HMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:  &#xD;&#xA;You could be looking at a virtual screen with 16,000 x 9,000 pixels the size of your thumbnail. Even though there's a very high resolution in the virtual space, it needs to be projected onto your HMD display, and at the size of your thumb it may be 160x90 pixels on the display. Which would make it impossible to see the detail in that massive texture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you did have a 360° panorama of virtual desktop, you could just let the software rotate it instead of turning your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43050" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="e9382fb6-ed68-4838-81b0-74593515be76" CreationDate="2019-11-07T22:24:53.083" UserId="10648" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="a50cdd7e-af26-438c-af76-d8a1e9a16c26" CreationDate="2019-11-08T00:50:53.830" UserId="13922" Text="I want to get a SSD 500 gb for Sony Vaio-71614M, I am willing to spend between 20 and 50 euros. if possible with a SLC memory. Do you guys have any advice, or product recomendation?&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43052" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="a50cdd7e-af26-438c-af76-d8a1e9a16c26" CreationDate="2019-11-08T00:50:53.830" UserId="13922" Text="SSD for Sony Vaio-71614M" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43053" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="a50cdd7e-af26-438c-af76-d8a1e9a16c26" CreationDate="2019-11-08T00:50:53.830" UserId="13922" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43054" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2815" RevisionGUID="3ee63488-39f9-492a-96ce-96facbb7516b" CreationDate="2019-11-08T12:01:25.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="91ef67e0-eaf0-41ff-afb8-9d601bb384b5" CreationDate="2019-11-08T18:03:21.447" UserId="10648" Comment="added 443 characters in body" Text="I see that this question was last answered over 4 years ago, so I would like to provide a more optimistic answer that is up-to-date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Augmented Reality headsets are the type of headset that displays an overlay on a transparent screen. VR headsets will obstruct your view to ensure maximum immersion, so they are not ideal for most people to use with typing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft's HoloLens](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/hololens) is a cutting edge AR headset that may be what you're looking for. However, it's not really a consumer friendly product yet. ($3500 USD!)  &#xD;&#xA;With Microsoft behind HoloLens, it has a pretty good chance of becoming a standardized AR experience for Windows. At some point in the future this product may be a viable alternative to traditional computer screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little less expensive is the [Magic Leap One](https://www.magicleap.com/magic-leap-one) at $2295 USD. This system has its own computer built-in, so it is *wireless* in a sense. It will be interesting to see whether this device will pick up as a 100% AR-based computer for consumer use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These AR headsets are still in the early adoption phase though, where developers and companies are still experimenting and finding uses for them. They are not intended for consumer use and the software to enable using them with a desktop environment may not be fully functional. (Or even exist yet.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are OK with VR headsets that obstruct your view of the keyboard, you could use basically *any* VR headset. There is already software like [Virtual Desktop](https://www.vrdesktop.net/) for most VR headsets. There is also a [VR desktop environment](https://arcan-fe.com/2018/03/29/safespaces-an-open-source-vr-desktop/) for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a tricky thing to answer. The resolution of the headset ultimately determines the sharpness of text or the detail of objects in 3D virtual space, because virtual objects must be [rasterized](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasterisation) onto the pixels of that display. The &quot;desktop space&quot; you can use is practically unlimited, considering that you would be free to arrange and resize virtual windows however you want. The actual resolution of these virtual windows that you would really be seeing varies, and it would depend on multiple factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the texture mapped to the virtual surface&#xD;&#xA;- The position &amp; orientation of the virtual surface from your viewpoint&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the HMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:  &#xD;&#xA;You could be looking at a virtual screen with 16,000 x 9,000 pixels, scaled to the size of your thumbnail and placed at arms length. Even though there's a very high resolution in the virtual space, it needs to be projected onto your HMD display, and at the size of your thumb it may be 160x90 pixels on the display. Which would make it impossible to see the detail in that massive texture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you did have a 360° panorama of virtual desktop, you could just let the software rotate it instead of turning your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43056" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="e20fe16f-be65-4163-9e4e-52d9df195cac" CreationDate="2019-11-08T18:03:25.827" UserId="10648" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="86a74220-b68f-4016-99bd-6d33e61a8a30" CreationDate="2019-11-08T18:08:40.267" UserId="10648" Comment="edited body" Text="I see that this question was last answered over 4 years ago, so I would like to provide a more optimistic answer that is up-to-date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Augmented Reality headsets are the type of headset that displays an overlay on a transparent screen. VR headsets will obstruct your view to ensure maximum immersion, so they are not ideal for most people to use with typing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft's HoloLens](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/hololens) is a cutting edge AR headset that may be what you're looking for. However, it's not really a consumer friendly product yet. ($3500 USD!)  &#xD;&#xA;With Microsoft behind HoloLens, it has a pretty good chance of becoming a standardized AR experience for Windows. At some point in the future this product may be a viable alternative to traditional computer screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little less expensive is the [Magic Leap One](https://www.magicleap.com/magic-leap-one) at $2295 USD. This system has its own computer built-in, so it is *wireless* in a sense. It will be interesting to see how this device will be put to use by the companies currently developing for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These AR headsets are still in the early adoption phase though, where developers and companies are still experimenting and finding uses for them. They are not intended for consumer use and the software to enable using them with a desktop environment may not be fully functional. (Or even exist yet.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are OK with VR headsets that obstruct your view of the keyboard, you could use basically *any* VR headset. There is already software like [Virtual Desktop](https://www.vrdesktop.net/) for most VR headsets. There is also a [VR desktop environment](https://arcan-fe.com/2018/03/29/safespaces-an-open-source-vr-desktop/) for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a tricky thing to answer. The resolution of the headset ultimately determines the sharpness of text or the detail of objects in 3D virtual space, because virtual objects must be [rasterized](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasterisation) onto the pixels of that display. The &quot;desktop space&quot; you can use is practically unlimited, considering that you would be free to arrange and resize virtual windows however you want. The actual resolution of these virtual windows that you would really be seeing varies, and it would depend on multiple factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the texture mapped to the virtual surface&#xD;&#xA;- The position &amp; orientation of the virtual surface from your viewpoint&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the HMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:  &#xD;&#xA;You could be looking at a virtual screen with 16,000 x 9,000 pixels, scaled to the size of your thumbnail and placed at arms length. Even though there's a very high resolution in the virtual space, it needs to be projected onto your HMD display, and at that distance and size it may be 160x90 pixels on the display. Which would make it impossible to see the detail in that massive texture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you did have a 360° panorama of virtual desktop, you could just let the software rotate it instead of turning your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12354" RevisionGUID="3de3049a-b03d-4f18-98a4-a974384f8e06" CreationDate="2019-11-08T18:14:52.543" UserId="10648" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I see that this question was last answered over 4 years ago, so I would like to provide a more optimistic answer that is up-to-date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Is there a head-tracking VR headset (either augmented reality or such that a keyboard can still be seen/used while wearing) that could be used as a 360-degree (or even 180 degree) monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Augmented Reality headsets are the type of headset that displays an overlay on a transparent screen. VR headsets will obstruct your view to ensure maximum immersion, so they are not ideal for most people to use with typing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft's HoloLens](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/hololens) is a cutting edge AR headset that may be what you're looking for. However, it's not really a consumer friendly product yet. ($3500 USD!)  &#xD;&#xA;With Microsoft behind HoloLens, it has a pretty good chance of becoming a standardized AR experience for Windows. At some point in the future an iteration of the HoloLens may be a viable alternative to traditional computer screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little less expensive is the [Magic Leap One](https://www.magicleap.com/magic-leap-one) at $2295 USD. This system has its own computer built-in, so it is *wireless* in a sense. It will be interesting to see how this device will be put to use by the companies currently developing for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These AR headsets are still in the early adoption phase though, where developers and companies are still experimenting and finding uses for them. They are not intended for consumer use and the software to enable using them with a desktop environment may not be fully functional. (Or even exist yet.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are OK with VR headsets that obstruct your view of the keyboard, you could use basically *any* VR headset. There is already software like [Virtual Desktop](https://www.vrdesktop.net/) for most VR headsets. There is also a [VR desktop environment](https://arcan-fe.com/2018/03/29/safespaces-an-open-source-vr-desktop/) for Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What kind of virtual resolution would I end up with?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a tricky thing to answer. The resolution of the headset ultimately determines the sharpness of text or the detail of objects in 3D virtual space, because virtual objects must be [rasterized](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasterisation) onto the pixels of that display. The &quot;desktop space&quot; you can use is practically unlimited, considering that you would be free to arrange and resize virtual windows however you want. The actual resolution of these virtual windows that you would really be seeing varies, and it would depend on multiple factors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the texture mapped to the virtual surface&#xD;&#xA;- The position &amp; orientation of the virtual surface from your viewpoint&#xD;&#xA;- The resolution of the HMD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:  &#xD;&#xA;You could be looking at a virtual screen with 16,000 x 9,000 pixels, scaled to the size of your thumbnail and placed at arms length. Even though there's a very high resolution in the virtual space, it needs to be projected onto your HMD display, and at that distance and size it may be 160x90 pixels on the display. Which would make it impossible to see the detail in that massive texture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I realize that it would probably be unpleasant to turn around and use desktop space behind me, but I would at least be able to maximize the use of my field of vision&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you did have a 360° panorama of virtual desktop, you could just let the software rotate it instead of turning your head." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43072" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12358" RevisionGUID="cf68b5a1-8ee7-48cc-96ff-505751fcc502" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:09:47.847" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
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  <row Id="43074" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12359" RevisionGUID="ce1b6406-6c9b-462e-aec4-230bbdd42db8" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:09:47.847" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
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  <row Id="43076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12360" RevisionGUID="73739f9a-962e-400f-a318-dbf5706c8136" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:10:48.020" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
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  <row Id="43078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12361" RevisionGUID="6d62d040-09ed-46d4-b4f3-72befe7f26e4" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:10:48.020" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43079" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12361" RevisionGUID="6d62d040-09ed-46d4-b4f3-72befe7f26e4" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:10:48.020" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="43f229fa-84d8-4c18-b961-0594678fc8e1" CreationDate="2019-11-09T13:02:00.740" UserId="13933" Text="I have a network which has about 10-20 different devices (~5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and ~10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 network cameras. I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with the features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for this application. Is there a router that would have better bandwidth/throughput so that it would be able to handle camera streams without dropping connectivity?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43081" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="43f229fa-84d8-4c18-b961-0594678fc8e1" CreationDate="2019-11-09T13:02:00.740" UserId="13933" Text="Need recommendations for a router for use with network cameras" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43082" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="43f229fa-84d8-4c18-b961-0594678fc8e1" CreationDate="2019-11-09T13:02:00.740" UserId="13933" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43096" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="59b7229d-bbd2-4efa-89ed-0338d3e020fb" CreationDate="2019-11-10T02:02:35.540" UserId="-1" />
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  <row Id="43105" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="6e4d20a4-2992-4d67-9f16-a9fb88720c3e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T13:50:41.630" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="I want to get a SSD 500 gb for Sony Vaio-71614M, I am willing to spend between 20 and 50 euros. If possible a SSD with a SLC memory.  &#xD;&#xA;Do you guys have any advice or product recomendation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43106" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="6e4d20a4-2992-4d67-9f16-a9fb88720c3e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T13:50:41.630" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43107" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12355" RevisionGUID="6e4d20a4-2992-4d67-9f16-a9fb88720c3e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T13:50:41.630" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 13922 edit id of 947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12370" RevisionGUID="64437fe3-68f3-4057-a32a-fffe2a79d3ba" CreationDate="2019-11-10T15:01:13.853" UserId="13941" Text="I have a home built computer with an ASRock Z68-Pro3-M motherboard and an Intel Core i5. It's a good computer and does what I need. However, I'm sometimes in the need of doing screen recordings and with Windows 10's Xbox Game Bar it says it cannot record due to insufficient hardware. I'd like to upgrade the system by adding a graphics card. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My monitors are HDMI and DVI, and maybe some day I'll add a third monitor, so that capability would be nice. There is an available PCI 2.0x16 slot (blue) on my board that I'm thinking is the best option to use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend something that will work for this? I've read that I need to find one that supports Intel Quick Sync H.264, NVidia NVENC or AMD VCE, but I'm not entirely sure if that means I have to have one from one of those manufacturers or if I can get something like a cheap [MSI card][1] that costs a bit less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01AY78MLM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1IUZRVRQUH0V6&amp;th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43109" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12370" RevisionGUID="64437fe3-68f3-4057-a32a-fffe2a79d3ba" CreationDate="2019-11-10T15:01:13.853" UserId="13941" Text="Graphics card for recording screen video (Win 10), PCI express 2.0 x16 slot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43110" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12370" RevisionGUID="64437fe3-68f3-4057-a32a-fffe2a79d3ba" CreationDate="2019-11-10T15:01:13.853" UserId="13941" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43120" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12374" RevisionGUID="c4d4f713-605e-420f-a5e2-bdd8f24eb89e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T19:03:39.163" UserId="7853" Text="I'm looking for wireless earbuds which are reversible and can be used individually. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can only hear in one of my ears and therefore getting earbuds which are not reversible is just extra junk for me. I'm just looking for a decent pair, price is not a concern to me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like for them to be able to be used one at a time (like this I can double my battery life). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I need them to be able to be reversible (right bud in left ear or vice versa) - at least to an extent, meaning if I have to flip them, that's not a huge deal, but with these giant earbuds, they usually need to be in the correct ear in order to help support their weight and flipping them wouldn't work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw some from Rowkin, as they seem to be the right shape, I'm not sure if they can be used individually though. Also they have mediocre reviews (on all models) with lots of customers complaining about battery etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Rowkin][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also just found the Nokia True Wireless buds;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Nokia][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, limited reviews and no indication if they can be used individually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jWG2.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hccb9.png?s=256" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43121" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12374" RevisionGUID="c4d4f713-605e-420f-a5e2-bdd8f24eb89e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T19:03:39.163" UserId="7853" Text="Wireless earbuds for single sided deafness" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43122" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12374" RevisionGUID="c4d4f713-605e-420f-a5e2-bdd8f24eb89e" CreationDate="2019-11-10T19:03:39.163" UserId="7853" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43139" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="f71a120d-2769-4d3f-a7c5-21193fb8c997" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:20:42.843" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43140" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="df3ad9f4-26c0-4f5b-8c85-eeb88ab34a8f" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:20:44.713" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43145" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="211ba609-57e9-45b1-ba18-493012533dc0" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:48:25.377" UserId="13945" Text="With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can those who have this machine please describe their experience with the machine, through the lens of my requirements, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the C40-C1430, and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43146" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="211ba609-57e9-45b1-ba18-493012533dc0" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:48:25.377" UserId="13945" Text="Feedback on Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D] &amp; alternatives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43147" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="211ba609-57e9-45b1-ba18-493012533dc0" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:48:25.377" UserId="13945" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43148" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="86621d22-b4b7-4c2c-b8e7-7e76fe6a0e61" CreationDate="2019-11-11T05:06:12.233" UserId="13945" Comment="added 138 characters in body" Text="**TL;DR**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs for the Tecra C40-D seem to be in the ball park of what my gut tells me I need.&#xD;&#xA;Can those who have this laptop please describe their experience with the machine, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The long story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="92b7393b-f920-4f37-9045-dd51183da512" CreationDate="2019-11-11T05:14:19.847" UserId="13945" Comment="added 109 characters in body" Text="The specs for the Tecra C40-D seem to be in the ball park of what my gut tells me I need.  Can those who have this laptop please describe their experience with the machine, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are some common flaws in my reasoning for settling on the Tecra C40-D (below), can you please point them out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The long story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43150" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="649c4ed5-c634-44e8-a44c-162d64be32ec" CreationDate="2019-11-11T07:11:40.243" UserId="13945" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="**TL;DR**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs for the Tecra C40-D seem to be in the ball park of what my gut tells me I need.  Can those who have this laptop please describe their experience with the machine, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are some common flaws in my reasoning for settling on the Tecra C40-D (below), can you please point them out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The long story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43151" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="02bb94cb-81ba-420e-933e-10d1ce88f568" CreationDate="2019-11-11T09:19:57.173" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43152" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1503" RevisionGUID="02bb94cb-81ba-420e-933e-10d1ce88f568" CreationDate="2019-11-11T09:19:57.173" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 1210 edit id of 948" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="555b5eb4-3734-4f2c-a822-f3f0a202d3eb" CreationDate="2019-11-11T13:04:12.183" UserId="13947" Text="Is it possible only a component have a SIL level,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example is there a processor that have IEC 61508 SIL4 certificate or EN 50126 SIL4 certificate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there exists what would you recommend to me for processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="555b5eb4-3734-4f2c-a822-f3f0a202d3eb" CreationDate="2019-11-11T13:04:12.183" UserId="13947" Text="Is there Any MPU, MCU or SOC that have SIL certification" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="555b5eb4-3734-4f2c-a822-f3f0a202d3eb" CreationDate="2019-11-11T13:04:12.183" UserId="13947" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43160" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12378" RevisionGUID="0aabaf3f-0a11-4681-8810-b880d4edb8b4" CreationDate="2019-11-11T15:32:24.637" UserId="10648" Text="Intel Quick Sync is only available from Intel's integrated graphics. If you're using integrated graphics you probably already have this feature. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your motherboard and integrated graphics. Many of the Z68 motherboards also had a LucidLogix &quot;GPU virtualization&quot; feature that could prevent Quick Sync from working. Make sure this feature is turned off in your BIOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVidia NVENC was introduced on the GeForce 600-series. That was several years ago and at this point, almost *every* NVidia card except the cheapest models have the NVENC feature. You can buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier GeForce you'd like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD VCE was introduced in the Radeon 7000-series, which is also several years old. Practically *all* of AMD's GPUs since then support VCE. Once again, you may buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier Radeon card you want." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43161" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12378" RevisionGUID="cb46c7d2-3511-4004-986c-1eeed397f91e" CreationDate="2019-11-11T15:48:53.443" UserId="10648" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="Intel Quick Sync is only available from Intel's integrated graphics. If you're using integrated graphics you probably already have this feature. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your motherboard and integrated graphics. Your motherboard supports something called &quot;Lucid Virtu&quot; which allows a dedicated graphics card and integrated Intel graphics to appear as a single GPU to the OS. This feature should be disabled (in BIOS if possible) and the drivers for &quot;LucidLogix&quot; or &quot;Lucid&quot; should be uninstalled. It is possible that they can interfere with the Quick Sync feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVidia NVENC was introduced on the GeForce 600-series. That was several years ago and at this point, almost *every* NVidia card except the cheapest models have the NVENC feature. You can buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier GeForce you'd like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD VCE was introduced in the Radeon 7000-series, which is also several years old. Practically *all* of AMD's GPUs since then support VCE. Once again, you may buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier Radeon card you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you don't actually need any of these features to record your screen. Before these hardware-accelerated features existed you could use software like [FRAPS](https://www.fraps.com/). [OBS Studio](https://obsproject.com/) is a newer, and open-source streaming software that can use the hardware-accelerated recording features but it doesn't need them either." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43162" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12378" RevisionGUID="4746d56d-e1c1-4728-a2f8-90e7a014b8cc" CreationDate="2019-11-11T15:55:53.743" UserId="10648" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Intel Quick Sync is only available from Intel's integrated graphics. If you're using integrated graphics you probably already have this feature. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your motherboard and integrated graphics. Your motherboard supports something called &quot;Lucid Virtu&quot; which allows a dedicated graphics card and integrated Intel graphics to appear as a single GPU to the OS. This feature should be disabled (in BIOS if possible) and the drivers for &quot;LucidLogix&quot; or &quot;Lucid&quot; should be uninstalled. It is possible that they can interfere with the Quick Sync feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVidia NVENC was introduced on the GeForce 600-series. That was several years ago and at this point, almost *every* NVidia card except the cheapest models have the NVENC feature. You can buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier GeForce you'd like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD VCE was introduced in the Radeon 7000-series, which is also several years old. Practically *all* of AMD's GPUs since then support VCE. Once again, you may buy pretty much any &quot;gaming&quot; tier Radeon card you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, you don't actually need any of these features to record your screen. Before these hardware-accelerated features existed you could use software like [FRAPS](https://www.fraps.com/). These days I would recommend [OBS Studio](https://obsproject.com/), which is much newer and open source. It doesn't need the hardware features but it can use them if you have it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="7f010238-d199-466d-bfe4-abe6d6c47ae2" CreationDate="2019-11-11T18:24:24.227" UserId="13945" Comment="added 496 characters in body" Text="**TL;DR**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs for the Tecra C40-D seem to be in the ball park of what my gut tells me I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 500+ GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;* 8-16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* 14&quot; display&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard &amp; touchpad: Very important, but unknown&#xD;&#xA;* Processor i5, 7th generation (beware: [some variants have i3](http://cdn.cnetcontent.com/47/44/47446ec0-3cd7-4eee-911e-169823de8b2c.pdf))&#xD;&#xA;* \&gt;4 cores, either [physical cores or logical cores from hyperthreading](http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/pcs/cpus/1400962/whats-the-difference-between-core-i3-i5-and-i7-processors)&#xD;&#xA;* Demand-driven processor clock rate (Turbo boost)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can those who have this laptop please describe their experience with the machine, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are some common flaws in my reasoning for settling on the Tecra C40-D (below), can you please point them out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The long story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 barely acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 unacceptably bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43169" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="7af287a5-3a8e-47ec-be81-f0a348689263" CreationDate="2019-11-11T18:25:28.197" UserId="13947" Comment="added 88 characters in body" Text="Is it possible only a component have a SIL level,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example is there a processor that have IEC 61508 SIL4 certificate or EN 50126 SIL4 certificate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there exists what would you recommend to me for processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*****There are some idiots Who have down vote please  explain why you give this*****" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12375" RevisionGUID="955628c6-c920-4262-9baa-c9125463b779" CreationDate="2019-11-11T18:39:04.740" UserId="13945" Comment="added 77 characters in body" Text="**TL;DR**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs for the Tecra C40-D seem to be in the ball park of what my gut tells me I need:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 500+ GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;* 8-16 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* 14&quot; display&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard tactile feedback; touchpad responsiveness and accuracy&#xD;&#xA;    - Both critical but unknown&#xD;&#xA;* Processor i5, 7th generation (beware: [some variants have i3](http://cdn.cnetcontent.com/47/44/47446ec0-3cd7-4eee-911e-169823de8b2c.pdf))&#xD;&#xA;    * At least [4 cores](http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/pcs/cpus/1400962/whats-the-difference-between-core-i3-i5-and-i7-processors), either logical cores from hyperthreading or (preferrably) physical cores&#xD;&#xA;    * Demand-driven processor clock rate (Turbo boost)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can those who have this laptop please describe their experience with the machine, with emphasis on the keyboard, and perhaps the touchpad?  As well, is the screen as bad as implied in the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) and will it have serious implications for my non-artistic usage?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are some common flaws in my reasoning for settling on the Tecra C40-D (below), can you please point them out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, why would there be no reviews of this product?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, would another candidate laptop be better, considering my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The long story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With Windows 7 support ending, I am faced with upgrading a prehistoric laptop (Toshiba Satellite A660) with sticky keys.  It makes much more sense to buy a new laptop with Windows 10.  I wanted to find one available on the shelves at a brick-and-mortar store in Ottawa, Canada.  That way, I can test drive the physical user interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I replace my laptop every 8-9 years.  For me, one of the biggest disappointments in a new laptop is poor keyboard and touchpad registration.  This is exacerbated by my old school upbringing in the era of HP-UX and Solaris.  I find it untenable to mouse and click for everything.  Command line and hot keys are the way to go, so poor key registration is a deal breaker, as is inaccurate touchpad sensing.  As a point of reference, I found the Dell Inspiron 8000 good, the Toshiba Portege R930 barely acceptable, and the Toshiba Satellite A660 unacceptably bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My usage is basic personal -- Microsoft Office, browsing, webmail, personal bookkeeping, some netflix, and perhaps Python via Spyder for modelling and algorithmic exploration.  Of coures, Cygwin too, for its old user-level unix environment, including X-Windows.  I am not into big data or high performance computation on my personal laptop, though the way that apps are developed these days, you do need some horsepower to (say) support multiple Firefox tabs, especially with its voracious memory appetite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I eschew large files (e.g., video, images), though they are necessary for some personal business matters.  A 500GB hard drive is more than sufficient, and gives me headroom to play around with disk images.  For now, I prefer non-SSD, since SSD doesn't present the same advance failure warnings as magnetic HDDs.  As far as content safety goes, I don't have the time to figure out a near-real time mirroring of HDD content for redundancy.  Nor do I have the space at home to set up network disks.  So the advance warning of HDD degradation is a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need an optical disc drive, but the middle-of-the road laptops I seek seem to be for old fogeys like me, and hence, tend to have them, which means I'm hauling around extra weight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From web researching the variable processor clock rates these days, my gut says that an i5 processor is sufficient.  My 4GB RAM is straining, and I hope that 8GB will be enough to future proof me for the coming decade, though I certainly wouldn't turn away from 16GB if the right product came along.  My work laptop has 8GB, and my personal usage is less demanding.  For the display, I find 13.3&quot; too small, and 15.6&quot; detracts from portability.  I've settled on 14&quot;, which almost always consists of 1366x768 pixels.  That's fine; my eyes are not able to make out ultra-fine resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My strategy was to peruse the offerings of the Ottawa brick-and-mortar stores, and if I find one or more that seem to meet my criteria, I would ask to have it brought in-store so that I can test drive it.  The most matching candidate seems to be the Toshiba Tecra C40-D (also referred to as C40-D-00D).  Bafflingly, there don't seem to be any reviews about it.  There is a review for the [C40-C1430](http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/toshiba-tecra-c40) in which the keyboard is less than flattering, but I'm not sure how similar it is to the C40-D.  There is also a impressive review for the [X40](http://www.zdnet.com/product/toshiba-tecra-x40-d), but that seems like a very different machine.  I can't test drive the laptop as I originally planned, as none of the brick-and-mortar stores will bring it into the store without a prior purchase (tried Staples, Best Buy, The Source)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Appendix: Details on the Toshiba Tecra C40-D[-00D]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Staples](http://www.staples.ca/products/2798503-en-dynabook-toshiba-tecra-ps481c-00d018-14-inch-notebook-25-ghz-intel-core-i5-7200u-1-tb-hdd-8-gb-ddr4-windows-10-home)&#xD;&#xA;[Toshiba.ca](http://www.toshiba.ca/productdetailpage.aspx?id=2147503717)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Dynabook Toshiba Tecra PS481C-00D018&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    $849.99&#xD;&#xA;    Delivery (to T.O.!) by Nov 14-25&#xD;&#xA;    Item: 2798503 Model: PS481C-00D018 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Get uncompromising performance in a thin, light and portable package with these fast, powerful and secure business machines. The magnesium alloy body provides durability making the Tecra ideal for busy professionals who spend a lot of time traveling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    14-inch LED display with 1366 x 768 screen resolution&#xD;&#xA;    2.5 GHz Intel Core i5-7200U processor (3 MB cache)&#xD;&#xA;    8 GB DDR4 RAM system memory&#xD;&#xA;    1 TB Hard Disk Drive storage&#xD;&#xA;    Windows 10 Home operating system pre-installed&#xD;&#xA;    Intel HD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Network, WiFi, Bluetooth connectivity&#xD;&#xA;    Ports: 3 x USB 3.0, HDMI, Headphone-out, Mic-in, Docking&#xD;&#xA;    4-cell Lithium Ion battery with Up to 8 hours runtime&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions: 13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;, 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    3-Year warranty &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Specifications&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Cache             3 MB&#xD;&#xA;    Weight (lb)                 3.97 lb&#xD;&#xA;    Webcam                      Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Warranty                    3-Year&#xD;&#xA;    Condition                   New&#xD;&#xA;    Dimensions (inches)         13.4&quot; x 9.6&quot; x 0.94&quot;&#xD;&#xA;    VR Ready                    No&#xD;&#xA;    Display Ports               1 x HDMI|Docking|No&#xD;&#xA;    Computer Type               Notebook&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Type                 DDR4&#xD;&#xA;    LAN Details                 Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Touch Screen                No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB Type C Ports  0&#xD;&#xA;    Model Series                Tecra&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive               No&#xD;&#xA;    Storage Type                HDD&#xD;&#xA;    Colour Family               Black&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Drive Speed (RPM)      5400&#xD;&#xA;    Memory Size                 8 GB&#xD;&#xA;    Numeric Keypad              No&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 2.0 Ports     0&#xD;&#xA;    Number of USB 3.0 Ports     3&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Details             4-cell Lithium Ion&#xD;&#xA;    Battery Runtime             Up to 8 Hours&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless (Wi-Fi)            Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Hard Disk Drive Capacity    1000&#xD;&#xA;    Speaker Details             Stereo&#xD;&#xA;    Backlit Keyboard            No&#xD;&#xA;    Media Card Reader           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Operating System            Windows 10 Home&#xD;&#xA;    Bluetooth Enabled           Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Keyboard Language           Bilingual&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Type              Core i5-7200U&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Resolution           1366 x 768&#xD;&#xA;    Optical Drive Type          No&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Size (inches)        14&#xD;&#xA;    Screen Type                 LED&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Speed (GHz)       2.5 GHz&#xD;&#xA;    Energy Star Qualified       Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Auxiliary Input (3.5mm)     Yes&#xD;&#xA;    Graphics Card Details       Intel HD 620&#xD;&#xA;    Processor Series            Intel i5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="c3e66ac6-2118-426b-8e13-8fefd7027738" CreationDate="2019-11-12T00:53:06.740" UserId="13933" Comment="added specifics as directed" Text="I have a home LAN which has 5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and 10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 wifi network cameras. I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with its features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back, perhaps 1-10 times per day, connectivity is lost for at least a few minutes. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for my application. I have searched through a lot of router products' descriptions, but most of the performance claims are about gaming; my problem is that I do not know which of the specs to optimize - what parameters of the router are relevant to the issue of dropped connections to streaming network cameras?  I am looking for either: advice on what aspect of the specifications to look for, or, specific recommendations for a brand and model that is known to handle network camera streams without dropping connectivity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43194" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="f8a5995b-e8af-418f-9c26-ed3c351db85e" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:11:27.360" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43203" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12386" RevisionGUID="49a142c3-3d04-407f-90e6-128ad7c2429a" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:34:48.183" UserId="13956" Text="Are there monitors, preferably wall-mounted, where one can upload files e.g. from an USB-stick for a presentation without connection to a PC or Laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43204" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12386" RevisionGUID="49a142c3-3d04-407f-90e6-128ad7c2429a" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:34:48.183" UserId="13956" Text="Monitors for presentation without PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43205" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12386" RevisionGUID="49a142c3-3d04-407f-90e6-128ad7c2429a" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:34:48.183" UserId="13956" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12387" RevisionGUID="e5960867-7be7-43d4-bd44-670f93451851" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:53:27.540" UserId="13957" Text="Two second hand refurbished laptops: One is Lenovo Thinkpad T450 with i5 5300U CPU, the other one is Lenovo Thinkpad X230 with i7 3520M CPU. The RAM and hard drive will be exactly the same on both machines. (16 RAM, 1TB HDD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that T450 is a newer machine, but its CPU is i5 5300U, I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The older machine X230 comes with i7 3520M CPU which has more cache (4MB smartcache) and slightly better benchmarks than i5 5300U.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43207" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12387" RevisionGUID="e5960867-7be7-43d4-bd44-670f93451851" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:53:27.540" UserId="13957" Text="Is i7 3520M in an Older Machine Better Than i5 5300U in a Newer Machine?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43208" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12387" RevisionGUID="e5960867-7be7-43d4-bd44-670f93451851" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:53:27.540" UserId="13957" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12388" RevisionGUID="9e655fab-6293-421e-9212-25e16c69565f" CreationDate="2019-11-12T16:01:40.247" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [user-submitted benchmarks](https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3520M-vs-Intel-Core-i5-5300U/m50vsm16790), the [i7-3520M](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/64893/intel-core-i7-3520m-processor-4m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html) is only 10% faster than the [i5-5300U](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/85213/intel-core-i5-5300u-processor-3m-cache-up-to-2-90-ghz.html) on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i7-3520M CPU was a high-end CPU from 2013 intended for gaming laptops and mobile workstations when it released. In 2013 it would have been one of the best choices for your kind of workload.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U CPU is a low-power CPU from 2015 intended for ultra portable (thin &amp; light) laptops that allows long battery life. In 2015 this CPU would not have been suitable for your workload compared to the i7 'M' models available at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That doesn't mean that *all* 'U' CPUs are worse than *all* 'M' CPUs though.  The age difference between these two CPUs has allowed Intel to close the gap through architectural improvements. If you were to look at a current-gen 'U' CPUs from 2019, you may find one that is faster than the i7-3520M!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U being a newer CPU gives you some advantages over the i7-3520M that are worth trading the 10% advantage for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Support for AVX2, SSE 4.1, SSE 4.2  &#xD;&#xA;These instruction sets allow massive performance gains for SIMD type operations.  &#xD;&#xA;(i.e. Crunching lots of data in parallel)&#xD;&#xA;- 14nm Lithography  &#xD;&#xA;Moving from 22nm to 14nm allows Intel to use less power to accomplish the same functionality, so when the CPU isn't working hard it is using significantly less power (and outputting less heat) to run the operating system and background tasks.&#xD;&#xA;- Better Integrated Graphics  &#xD;&#xA;The HD5500 Graphics are about 5% to 10% faster than the HD4000 Graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the points above appeal to you, then the i7-3520M is still a faster CPU in terms of *raw performance*, but it is also an older CPU that will become obsolete sooner.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43210" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12388" RevisionGUID="1226d378-7f5d-4619-8a09-4a8fa8500b1f" CreationDate="2019-11-12T16:11:24.700" UserId="10648" Comment="added 311 characters in body" Text="&gt; Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from the CPUs, there are several attributes of the laptop models themselves (size, weight, shape, screen, keyboard, etc.) that you will need to personally weigh into your decision. I can't objectively say which *machine* is better for you, but at least we can objectively compare the CPUs in question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [user-submitted benchmarks](https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3520M-vs-Intel-Core-i5-5300U/m50vsm16790), the [i7-3520M](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/64893/intel-core-i7-3520m-processor-4m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html) is only 10% faster than the [i5-5300U](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/85213/intel-core-i5-5300u-processor-3m-cache-up-to-2-90-ghz.html) on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i7-3520M CPU was a high-end CPU from 2013 intended for gaming laptops and mobile workstations when it released. In 2013 it would have been one of the best choices for your kind of workload.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U CPU is a low-power CPU from 2015 intended for ultra portable (thin &amp; light) laptops that allows long battery life. In 2015 this CPU would not have been suitable for your workload compared to the i7 'M' models available at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That doesn't mean that *all* 'U' CPUs are worse than *all* 'M' CPUs though.  The age difference between these two CPUs has allowed Intel to close the gap through architectural improvements. If you were to look at a current-gen 'U' CPUs from 2019, you may find one that is faster than the i7-3520M!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U being a newer CPU gives you some advantages over the i7-3520M that are worth trading the 10% advantage for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Support for AVX2, SSE 4.1, SSE 4.2  &#xD;&#xA;These instruction sets allow massive performance gains for SIMD type operations.  &#xD;&#xA;(i.e. Crunching lots of data in parallel)&#xD;&#xA;- 14nm Lithography  &#xD;&#xA;Moving from 22nm to 14nm allows Intel to use less power to accomplish the same functionality, so when the CPU isn't working hard it is using significantly less power (and outputting less heat) to run the operating system and background tasks.&#xD;&#xA;- Better Integrated Graphics  &#xD;&#xA;The HD5500 Graphics are about 5% to 10% faster than the HD4000 Graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the points above appeal to you, then the i7-3520M is still a faster CPU in terms of *raw performance*.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12392" RevisionGUID="5490f3ee-96fd-4461-9831-e8ea07a65445" CreationDate="2019-11-13T02:34:30.400" UserId="13953" Text="How about a portable monitor and a PC stick. Grab any kiosk software and install it on the PC and you're set to go. Don't know how cost sensitive you are but you can probably get monitor and PC stick for well under $200. This would also allow you to migrate to larger display anytime you like since it would work with pretty much any monitor or TV. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43221" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="19046add-b86a-4887-8733-bc3a936c4151" CreationDate="2019-11-13T08:00:38.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43225" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12394" RevisionGUID="611bdd47-123a-4826-9932-2725df9fd7dc" CreationDate="2019-11-13T13:49:56.913" UserId="13963" Text="I intend to build a small 4 to 6 drives NAS server. The only part chosen is the case, a [Fractal Design Node 304][1] which can hold up to 6 drives. This case is compatible with mini ITX motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never build a PC before, thus I don't have the experience to pick parts and/or to determine if a part is suitable for this build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I was looking for an old reconditioned computer on ebay to get a cheap build (&lt; 150€) with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - dual or quad-core processor (i3 or i5 of 2nd or 3rd gen)&#xD;&#xA; - 8 Gb RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Motherboard&#xD;&#xA; - Powersupply&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The asset of this method is to get a build where each part are compatible one with another. However, I can not determine if the motherboard and power-suply are standard mini-ITX and ATX, and thus if they can fit into the chosen case properly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example: a [Dell Optiplex][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Moreover, I intend to use probably FreeNAS on this server. If I understood correctly, FreeNAS requires a separate boot drive which is not used for storage. Thus, I guess the options are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Motherboard with 4 sata port for the storage drives (configuration with 4 drives) and 1 M2 slot for an SSD.&#xD;&#xA;2. Motherboard with at least 1 sata port for the boot drive and a RAID PCI card with 6 sata port for the storage drives (configuration with 6 drives)&#xD;&#xA;3. Motherboard with M2 slot + PCI Raid card to plug the storage drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Taking all this into account, could you propose old PC model I could find on ebay with the correct motherboard/power supply &#xD;&#xA;AND/OR&#xD;&#xA;could you propose a build for 230€ to 280€?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for all the help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mathieu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/node/node-304/black/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-OPTIPLEX-upto-SFF-i7-16gb-2tb-HDD-SSD-WINDOWS-10-DESKTOP-PC/253179997563?hash=item3af2b42d7b:m:mvkEMn3_Hd6h4pvMbsXRufw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43226" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12394" RevisionGUID="611bdd47-123a-4826-9932-2725df9fd7dc" CreationDate="2019-11-13T13:49:56.913" UserId="13963" Text="Cheap hardware for NAS with a mini-ITX Case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43227" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12394" RevisionGUID="611bdd47-123a-4826-9932-2725df9fd7dc" CreationDate="2019-11-13T13:49:56.913" UserId="13963" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43228" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12388" RevisionGUID="c5f79e0e-b3f9-4cbb-b70e-dfd2c143438b" CreationDate="2019-11-13T14:08:29.730" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="&gt; Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside from the CPUs, there are several attributes of the laptop models themselves (size, weight, shape, screen, keyboard, etc.) that you will need to personally weigh into your decision. I can't objectively say which *machine* is better for you, but at least we can objectively compare the CPUs in question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [user-submitted benchmarks](https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3520M-vs-Intel-Core-i5-5300U/m50vsm16790), the [i7-3520M](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/64893/intel-core-i7-3520m-processor-4m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html) is only 10% faster than the [i5-5300U](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/85213/intel-core-i5-5300u-processor-3m-cache-up-to-2-90-ghz.html) on average.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i7-3520M CPU was a high-end CPU from 2013 intended for gaming laptops and mobile workstations when it released. In 2013 it would have been one of the best choices for your kind of workload.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U CPU is a low-power CPU from 2015 intended for ultra portable (thin &amp; light) laptops that allows long battery life. In 2015 this CPU would not have been suitable for your workload compared to the i7 'M' models available at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That doesn't mean that *all* 'U' CPUs are worse than *all* 'M' CPUs though.  The age difference between these two CPUs has allowed Intel to close the gap through architectural improvements. If you were to look at a current-gen 'U' CPUs from 2019, you may find one that is faster than the i7-3520M!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-5300U being a newer CPU gives you some advantages over the i7-3520M that are worth trading the 10% advantage for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Support for AVX2, SSE 4.1, SSE 4.2  &#xD;&#xA;These instruction sets allow massive performance gains for SIMD type operations.  &#xD;&#xA;(i.e. Crunching lots of data in parallel)&#xD;&#xA;- 14nm Lithography  &#xD;&#xA;Moving from 22nm to 14nm allows Intel to use less power to accomplish the same functionality, so when the CPU isn't working hard it is using significantly less power (and outputting less heat) to run the operating system and background tasks.&#xD;&#xA;- Better Integrated Graphics  &#xD;&#xA;The HD5500 Graphics are about 40% faster than the HD4000 Graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If none of the points above appeal to you, then the i7-3520M is still a faster CPU in terms of *raw performance*.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12392" RevisionGUID="a02fdba3-d109-4e19-93e0-6c2abd678850" CreationDate="2019-11-13T16:33:45.047" UserId="13953" Comment="added 435 characters in body; added 37 characters in body" Text="How about a portable monitor and a PC stick. Grab any kiosk software and install it on the PC and you're set to go. Don't know how cost sensitive you are but you can probably get monitor and PC stick for well under $200. This would also allow you to migrate to larger display anytime you like since it would work with pretty much any monitor or TV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;UPDATE: there's any number of options, but quick perusal shows a typical configuration: linux compatible Intel PC Stick ($65 https://www.newegg.com/intel-corp-boxstck1a8lfc-compute-stick-stck1a8lfc/p/N82E16883800005), free kiosk software (Porteus), and a Prechen 10.1&quot; portable monitor ($80 on amazon) or any similar cheap monitor. &lt;$150 total. Obviously I can't attest that this particular combination works but it certainly should. And there's lots of similar options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43233" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12396" RevisionGUID="a4eb7507-0a15-4e96-af64-0e8e4ad89720" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:15:27.773" UserId="1921" Text="Except for #2 a standard ATX power supply for a PC. If you can find a small PCB with screw adapters, you can cut off the molex/sata end solder them to the PCB. Short the 2 pins together on the ATX 20/24 pin plug and you have power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this adapter is $10 + $3 shipping and handling, but it works with any ATX PSU.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Supply-Breakout-Module-terminal/dp/B07KDX5CK8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So that plus the PSU could put you slightly over the budget, but you can re-use the adapter on any future PSU.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs7LQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="a7c1bd7c-867f-48b0-ab68-31919e2c846b" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:20:23.280" UserId="13965" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them. I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial ports?   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; import serial.tools.list_ports&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst = serial.tools.list_ports.comports()&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst[0].__dict__&#xD;&#xA;    {'device': 'COM3', &#xD;&#xA;    'name': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'description': 'Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (COM3)', &#xD;&#xA;    'hwid': 'USB VID:PID=067B:2303 SER=6 LOCATION=1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'vid': 1659, &#xD;&#xA;    'pid': 8963, &#xD;&#xA;    'serial_number': '6', &#xD;&#xA;    'location': '1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'manufacturer': 'Prolific', &#xD;&#xA;    'product': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'interface': None}" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43235" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="a7c1bd7c-867f-48b0-ab68-31919e2c846b" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:20:23.280" UserId="13965" Text="USB to rs232 adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43236" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="a7c1bd7c-867f-48b0-ab68-31919e2c846b" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:20:23.280" UserId="13965" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;rs-232&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43237" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12396" RevisionGUID="59949c95-7caf-4eb8-b1fd-3d10a55b5943" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:22:38.177" UserId="1921" Comment="added 238 characters in body" Text="Except for #2 a standard ATX power supply for a PC. If you can find a small PCB with screw adapters, you can cut off the molex/sata end solder them to the PCB. Short the 2 pins together on the ATX 20/24 pin plug and you have power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this adapter is $10 + $3 shipping and handling, but it works with any ATX PSU.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Supply-Breakout-Module-terminal/dp/B07KDX5CK8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So that plus the PSU could put you slightly over the budget, but you can re-use the adapter on any future PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg also has&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/p/2S7-01JK-0ECN9?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-_-9SIABKSACR7267-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs7LQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1JlHC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43238" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12396" RevisionGUID="e889294c-1520-4ba1-b058-a044b76f6950" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:28:00.957" UserId="1921" Comment="added 238 characters in body" Text="Except for #2 a standard ATX power supply for a PC. If you can find a small PCB with screw adapters, you can cut off the molex/sata end solder them to the PCB. Short the 2 pins together on the ATX 20/24 pin plug and you have power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know this adapter is $10 + $3 shipping and handling, but it works with any ATX PSU.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Supply-Breakout-Module-terminal/dp/B07KDX5CK8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So that plus the PSU could put you slightly over the budget, but you can re-use the adapter on any future PSU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Newegg also has&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/p/2S7-01JK-0ECN9?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-_-9SIABKSACR7267-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This one has 2 12v which combined would be 29A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817159046?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-_-17-159-046-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs7LQ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1JlHC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i7a.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43239" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="19f624eb-1b36-423d-bc34-cfee036397d7" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:32:57.343" UserId="13965" Comment="added 376 characters in body" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them. I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial ports?   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; import serial.tools.list_ports&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst = serial.tools.list_ports.comports()&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst[0].__dict__&#xD;&#xA;    {'device': 'COM3', &#xD;&#xA;    'name': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'description': 'Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (COM3)', &#xD;&#xA;    'hwid': 'USB VID:PID=067B:2303 SER=6 LOCATION=1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'vid': 1659, &#xD;&#xA;    'pid': 8963, &#xD;&#xA;    'serial_number': '6', &#xD;&#xA;    'location': '1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'manufacturer': 'Prolific', &#xD;&#xA;    'product': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'interface': None}&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found [documentation][1] on how EEPROM can be rewritten on FTDI chips. It seems to me that FTDI chips can be reprogrammed to include a meaningful serial number. Does anyone have a protocol on how to do that and a recommendation of which FTDI rs232-USB adapter to buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_124_User_Guide_For_FT_PROG.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43241" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="0a07b3bb-9871-4f4b-8a49-699938d8189b" CreationDate="2019-11-13T18:47:34.593" UserId="13965" Comment="added 405 characters in body" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them. I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial ports?   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; import serial.tools.list_ports&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst = serial.tools.list_ports.comports()&#xD;&#xA;    &gt;&gt;&gt; lst[0].__dict__&#xD;&#xA;    {'device': 'COM3', &#xD;&#xA;    'name': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'description': 'Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (COM3)', &#xD;&#xA;    'hwid': 'USB VID:PID=067B:2303 SER=6 LOCATION=1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'vid': 1659, &#xD;&#xA;    'pid': 8963, &#xD;&#xA;    'serial_number': '6', &#xD;&#xA;    'location': '1-2.1', &#xD;&#xA;    'manufacturer': 'Prolific', &#xD;&#xA;    'product': None, &#xD;&#xA;    'interface': None}&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found [documentation][1] on how EEPROM can be rewritten on FTDI chips. It seems to me that FTDI chips can be reprogrammed to include a meaningful serial number. Does anyone have a protocol on how to do that and a recommendation of which FTDI rs232-USB adapter to buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found a [program][2] that allows me to reprogram EEPROM on my prolific chip. Windows: PL2303 EEPROM Writer Program (HXD/EA/TA)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like I have PL-2303 chip. However, it requires 6.5V to write EEPROM. How do I do that on a Windows Machine?&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_124_User_Guide_For_FT_PROG.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?pcid=41&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKaSO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43242" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="e039c259-6be4-4d97-8461-236f1b7cfcea" CreationDate="2019-11-13T20:32:24.670" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 925 characters in body" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial numbers? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found [documentation][1] on how EEPROM can be rewritten on FTDI chips. It seems to me that FTDI chips can be reprogrammed to include a meaningful serial number. This would be a useful feature to have too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_124_User_Guide_For_FT_PROG.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43251" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="7102a10f-4a87-4a02-af32-50f7ed07b6f9" CreationDate="2019-11-13T20:36:33.287" UserId="-1" Comment="Added details and explained why a simple product search was not sufficient." Text="I have a home LAN which has 5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and 10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 wifi network cameras. I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with its features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back, perhaps 1-10 times per day, connectivity is lost for at least a few minutes. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for my application. I have searched through a lot of router products' descriptions, but most of the performance claims are about gaming; my problem is that I do not know which of the specs to optimize - what advertised parameters of a router model are relevant to the issue of dropped connections to streaming network cameras? I am looking for either: advice on what aspect of the specifications to look for, or, specific recommendations for a brand and model that is known to handle network camera streams without dropping connectivity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43252" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="7102a10f-4a87-4a02-af32-50f7ed07b6f9" CreationDate="2019-11-13T20:36:33.287" Comment="Proposed by 130.64.25.56|207c2d01-62d0-479a-87e9-80ef24cedd1c approved by 8 edit id of 949" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43253" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="9d4e3726-633c-421d-aa94-605d925b12a1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T20:39:13.650" UserId="8" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I have a home LAN which has 5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and 10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 wifi network cameras. I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with its features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back, perhaps 1-10 times per day, connectivity is lost for at least a few minutes. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for my application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched through a lot of router products' descriptions, but most of the performance claims are about gaming; my problem is that I do not know which of the specs to optimize - what advertised parameters of a router model are relevant to the issue of dropped connections to streaming network cameras? I am looking for either: advice on what aspect of the specifications to look for, or, specific recommendations for a brand and model that is known to handle network camera streams without dropping connectivity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43254" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12398" RevisionGUID="8cb4f25a-36ac-4747-94ce-48e7f29e97dc" CreationDate="2019-11-14T00:07:11.470" UserId="13421" Text="There are various media players [for ~US$35][1] and up that can play a presentation in a standard video format, e.g. MP4 or AVI, through a television, if the TV does not already have that capability. If the presentation is in another format, e.g. MS PowerPoint or LibreOffice Impress, you'd need a small PC, such as @CaldeiraG suggests.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option might be a [large tablet computer][2], with [LibreOffice][3] installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Player-AGPtek-Full-HD-Digital-Drives/dp/B00TOAAHG4/ref=sr_1_5&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SM-T670NZKAXAR-Galaxy-Android-Computer/dp/B0167OR4V0/ref=pd_sbs_147_6/139-7891224-8551742&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.libreoffice.org/download/android-viewer/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="0c92e098-ffc4-4551-a5d9-e4e1db61d21b" CreationDate="2019-11-14T17:37:51.520" UserId="13969" Text="I still acquire audio CDs, which I want to both play through my stereo receiver (but my CD player died) and rip onto my computer (but there's no optical drive). I see many cheap optical drives and portable CD players. Is there a single device that can be used for both purposes? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43263" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="0c92e098-ffc4-4551-a5d9-e4e1db61d21b" CreationDate="2019-11-14T17:37:51.520" UserId="13969" Text="Optical drive that can also function as CD player?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43264" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="0c92e098-ffc4-4551-a5d9-e4e1db61d21b" CreationDate="2019-11-14T17:37:51.520" UserId="13969" Text="&lt;dvd-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12407" RevisionGUID="55d5ea0f-20ff-4aa8-a512-750e8e0088d2" CreationDate="2019-11-15T05:53:12.150" UserId="7852" Text="I would be careful with the Intel SSD's, don't be fooled by cheaper prices, we've had many Intel SSD's fail at work or that claim to have a high TBW (Terabytes written over the life of the drive) but have a shorter lifespan.&#xD;&#xA;Sounds like you want a cheap SSD option for your laptop, I've loved my Silicon Power SSD that I bought off of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP512GBSS3A55S25/dp/B07997QV4Z" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43289" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="9c718518-157d-42a0-a4af-863238609906" CreationDate="2019-11-15T12:31:04.983" UserId="13933" Comment="added details as per recommendations on meta forum (more info about requirements and price range limit)" Text="I have a home LAN which has 5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and 10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 wifi network cameras.  The cameras are on 24*7. The desktops are also on 24*7, while the iOS devices are intermittent (mostly in the evenings). I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with its features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back, perhaps 1-10 times per day, connectivity is lost for at least a few minutes. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for my application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched through a lot of router products' descriptions, but most of the performance claims are about gaming; my problem is that I do not know which of the specs to optimize, but otherwise am willing to spend up to $1000 on an appropriate router. Can anyone recommend specific parameters to optimize, when selecting router models - ones that are relevant to the issue of dropped connections to streaming network cameras? I am looking for either: recommendations on what aspect of the router specifications to look for, or, specific recommendations for a brand and model that is known to handle network camera streams without dropping connectivity. Additional requirements: I need at least (ideally more) 4 ethernet (hardware) ports, and I do currently use 3 other wireless access points as extenders to cover the whole distance and make sure that the cameras have full wifi bars (I could also move to mesh, if that is better than the scheme I have now)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="7696d25e-234c-44bc-ab40-ac7fd9c6d951" CreationDate="2019-11-15T19:31:47.880" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 259 characters in body" Text="I have a home LAN which has 5 desktop Apple and Windows machines, and 10 iOS tablets/phones) plus 5 wifi network cameras.  The cameras are on 24*7. The desktops are also on 24*7, while the iOS devices are intermittent (mostly in the evenings). I currently have a Netgear 8000 router and while I'm happy with its features, I am seeing a lot of loss of connectivity of the camera streams during the day - reachability drops off and then comes back, perhaps 1-10 times per day, connectivity is lost for at least a few minutes. I realize that ethernet connections are best but they are not practical for my application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have searched through a lot of router products' descriptions, but most of the performance claims are about gaming; my problem is that I do not know which of the specs to optimize, but otherwise am willing to spend up to $1000 on an appropriate router. I am looking for specific recommendations for a brand and model that is known to handle network camera streams without dropping connectivity. Additional requirements: I need at least (ideally more) 4 ethernet (hardware) ports, and I do currently use 3 other wireless access points as extenders to cover the whole distance and make sure that the cameras have full wifi bars (I could also move to mesh, if that is better than the scheme I have now)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43291" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="12362" RevisionGUID="01066f7d-7e6e-4768-b162-65eb8efab88f" CreationDate="2019-11-15T19:31:51.657" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43305" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12411" RevisionGUID="e770b1f6-b3a9-4c05-88b7-595e0eb30ea1" CreationDate="2019-11-16T14:37:37.737" UserId="13703" Text="[This question][1] on Reddit describes my situation better than I could:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; [...] Voice recognition? Cool [...] But I'm a huge internet privacy advocate, all my stuff is self-hosted, secure out the ass, and has as little reliance on large corporations as technologically possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, I am looking for a voice assistant that works without connecting to the internet; everything they would need is available in a local network: Telephony/SIP Server, SMB/AFP/NFS/Bonjour/UPnP/LDAP/vCard server... - some of these services are provided by a Synology NAS, some by an internet router with additional features built in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently Google announced that their Pixel [speech recognition can work offline][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't be too scared to do complicated configuration or even add some services to my local network servers to allow a voice assistant to work, though my spare time is limited.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal voice assistant could read data from my local network address book, initiate phone calls, work as IP telephony device, plays music and allows me using it as Bluetooth speaker and may switch some wall sockets on and off. Ideally it would also support working as a pulseaudio sink. Maybe it could fetch some information from Wikipedia and read out loudly, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon announced their Echo Studio and the hardware looks very promising, given its price. However, as I understand it is entirely useless without being connected to the internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.reddit.com/r/alexa/comments/7m6428/what_can_an_echo_do_without_internet_access/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://techcrunch.com/2019/03/12/googles-new-voice-recognition-system-works-instantly-and-offline-if-you-have-a-pixel/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43306" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12411" RevisionGUID="e770b1f6-b3a9-4c05-88b7-595e0eb30ea1" CreationDate="2019-11-16T14:37:37.737" UserId="13703" Text="Audio assistant that works without the Internet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43307" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12411" RevisionGUID="e770b1f6-b3a9-4c05-88b7-595e0eb30ea1" CreationDate="2019-11-16T14:37:37.737" UserId="13703" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;assistive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="2a6f8710-985b-4a2e-87f5-d43f3e631eaf" CreationDate="2019-11-17T19:01:32.360" UserId="10315" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for my Nighthawk M1 which I just returned. There doesn't seem to LTE-only replacements, the Nighthawk M1 (Cat 16) and M2 (Cat 20) seem to be the only ones with over Cat 9 speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, looking at 5G mobile routers there seems to be more options, like the HTC 5G Hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there not any gigabit LTE-only mobile routers beside the Nighthawks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="2a6f8710-985b-4a2e-87f5-d43f3e631eaf" CreationDate="2019-11-17T19:01:32.360" UserId="10315" Text="Gigabit mobile router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="2a6f8710-985b-4a2e-87f5-d43f3e631eaf" CreationDate="2019-11-17T19:01:32.360" UserId="10315" Text="&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43321" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="2a3de4b2-c792-4823-a839-c0ff28fdc40d" CreationDate="2019-11-17T20:00:42.997" UserId="10315" Comment="edited title" Text="Gigabit LTE mobile routers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12419" RevisionGUID="84f0628d-d2e9-46ab-9659-2d1166c141d2" CreationDate="2019-11-19T08:11:26.520" UserId="13994" Text="I work at a department that produce between 100-200 units a day (laptop, desktop, servers etc) so it is not a big enviroment.&#xD;&#xA;For years we have used an old HPE server for storage (old files that we need to store for different reasons, VM-backups etc), and some local services such as dns-server, ftp and few more applications but nothing advanced.&#xD;&#xA;Other then that we use it as NFS server for the storage of clonezilla images (not a daily practice but for some customers this is required).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I basically know next to nothing about what kind of specs we need for a NAS, but i was given the task to find one to replace our current dying HPE server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum specs i do know of is that we need at least 8 disk slots, we will start off with 5 HDD disks (around 6TB each and minimum 7200RPM), redundant power supply and rackable chassis (it is better with more lenght than height since it will be racked in a rack-cabin. Of course hotplug is required with the disks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We will run with raid-5 (i tried to push for raid-6 but i was overruled).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It does not have to be a monster of a NAS obviosly but it should not be so weak that it is slow to navigate. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Room for any special high speed interfaces is not a requirement but preferred.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please help me with finding a proper NAS that can live up to the requirements and not be too costly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do apologize if some of the specs make no sense, as mentioned, i don't know anything about NAS in general.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I almost forgot, the power supply is 230V 10A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best regards,&#xD;&#xA;Nuzvee" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43339" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12419" RevisionGUID="84f0628d-d2e9-46ab-9659-2d1166c141d2" CreationDate="2019-11-19T08:11:26.520" UserId="13994" Text="NAS for local IT-deployment enviroment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43340" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12419" RevisionGUID="84f0628d-d2e9-46ab-9659-2d1166c141d2" CreationDate="2019-11-19T08:11:26.520" UserId="13994" Text="&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12421" RevisionGUID="52e37f3f-a25d-45b8-be53-607cc57fff21" CreationDate="2019-11-20T03:36:06.153" UserId="13986" Text="The Huawei E5788u-96a is a LTE router with CAT16 speeds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com.au/Huawei-E5788u-96a-1Gbps-Mobile-Globally/dp/B075KMWV9K" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43352" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="0da4130c-e5a3-4172-a632-b5fa1071dc6e" CreationDate="2019-11-20T11:31:25.573" UserId="13976" Text="With the Black Fridays round the corner I am thinking about buying a new smartphone for me. Though because ofm privascy concerns I need an android one without having facebook and gapps (I am fine with F-droid ones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that both Fairphone and Librem 5 is on the expensive side for me, hence I want a cheaper one that I can easily change the Firmware with LineageOS. Also I need one that I can buy from a physical store of from a store inside EU (for customs toll-free shipping)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43353" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="0da4130c-e5a3-4172-a632-b5fa1071dc6e" CreationDate="2019-11-20T11:31:25.573" UserId="13976" Text="Cheap LineageOS-compartible smartphone without GApps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43354" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="0da4130c-e5a3-4172-a632-b5fa1071dc6e" CreationDate="2019-11-20T11:31:25.573" UserId="13976" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43361" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="c5c28b0a-198f-4a80-afaf-7aa49bd295b9" CreationDate="2019-11-20T14:19:04.580" UserId="10315" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a replacement for my Nighthawk M1 which I just returned. There doesn't seem to LTE-only replacements, the Nighthawk M1 (Cat 16) and M2 (Cat 20) seem to be the only ones with over Cat 9 speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, looking at 5G mobile routers there seems to be more options, like the HTC 5G Hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there not any gigabit LTE mobile routers beside the Nighthawks?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43362" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="c5c28b0a-198f-4a80-afaf-7aa49bd295b9" CreationDate="2019-11-20T14:19:04.580" UserId="10315" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body; edited title" Text="Gigabit LTE mobile routers with ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43363" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12425" RevisionGUID="f22a32d1-0e89-4b2f-b6cf-9849fe7b92d0" CreationDate="2019-11-20T15:03:05.053" UserId="13999" Text="I'm helping someone finding a new laptop. The ThinkPad S531 is the only laptop she ever liked and I'm trying to find something similar but in &quot;2019 version&quot;. It seems the S531 doesn't have an official successor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, first off, the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Brand should be Lenovo, but not strictly ThinkPad&#xD;&#xA; - 15.6&quot; display (preferably brightness of 275 cd/m² or more)&#xD;&#xA; - Display must be non-glossy (matte)&#xD;&#xA; - Intel i7 (1.8+ GHz of newer generations, or 2.2+ of older)&#xD;&#xA; - Fan noise generally low, but of course brief &quot;peaks&quot; are accepted&#xD;&#xA; - 16+ GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - Numpad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The computer will be used for office/productivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After digging through a lot of different models, I've come across the ThinkPad T590 which seems to deliver on all requirements, except the display gets a hammered in certain reviews (mainly due to brightness).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPad P53s was also a candidate, although it doesn't have numpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We will go with T590 one if there aren't better alternatives." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43364" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12425" RevisionGUID="f22a32d1-0e89-4b2f-b6cf-9849fe7b92d0" CreationDate="2019-11-20T15:03:05.053" UserId="13999" Text="A &quot;unofficial sucessor&quot; to Lenovo ThinkPad S531" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43365" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12425" RevisionGUID="f22a32d1-0e89-4b2f-b6cf-9849fe7b92d0" CreationDate="2019-11-20T15:03:05.053" UserId="13999" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="b3094c83-0966-467f-ab54-7f91174321a7" CreationDate="2019-11-20T20:57:45.467" UserId="13965" Comment="added 147 characters in body" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial numbers? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found [documentation][1] on how EEPROM can be rewritten on FTDI chips. It seems to me that FTDI chips can be reprogrammed to include a meaningful serial number. This would be a useful feature to have too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have checked if I have a genuine Prolific chip and I do.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prolific also provides a tool to [reprogram EEPROM][3]. Though, the tools say it requires 6.5V to do that. I am not sure where to apply 6.5V. Do I need to have some kind of external adapter for that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_124_User_Guide_For_FT_PROG.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZx59.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?pcid=41&amp;showlevel=0017-0037-0041" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12397" RevisionGUID="ec7717ce-4ed7-48d3-a920-578069a5bc28" CreationDate="2019-11-20T21:10:31.737" UserId="13965" Comment="added 342 characters in body" Text="I have 6 Prolific rs232-USB adapters that are connected to a windows 10 box. I can retrieve information about each of them with Python. However, they look identical except 'LOCATION'. There is a field with a serial number but it is identical for all of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that some devices have FTDI or Prolific chips inside that make them look like USB device but everything is done in as serial later on. Those devices have serial number field changed to something more meaningful. I also read that more expensive rs232-usb adapters have unique serial numbers. Do you know of any rs232 to usb adapters with unique serial numbers? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found [documentation][1] on how EEPROM can be rewritten on FTDI chips. It seems to me that FTDI chips can be reprogrammed to include a meaningful serial number. This would be a useful feature to have too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have checked if I have a genuine Prolific chip and I do.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Prolific also provides a tool to [reprogram EEPROM][3]. Though, the tools say it requires 6.5V to do that. The schematics of 5V-&gt;6.5V USB adapter can be requested from Prolific themself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;&#xD;&#xA;When writing data into the internal OTPROM (One-Time Programming ROM) of PL2303HXD/EA, it is&#xD;&#xA;required to supply 6.5V to the device while executing the program. Prolific provides the schematic&#xD;&#xA;diagram for the USB 5V-to-6.5V port converter upon request so customers can produce the converters&#xD;&#xA;themselves. Contact Prolific for more information.&#xD;&#xA;&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_124_User_Guide_For_FT_PROG.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZx59.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?pcid=41&amp;showlevel=0017-0037-0041" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12430" RevisionGUID="9fec8ec7-f655-4563-b7f1-89b91131d739" CreationDate="2019-11-20T22:35:48.847" UserId="9457" Text="Yubico announced the [YubiKey Bio][1], which seems to do exactly that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.yubico.com/2019/11/yubico-reveals-first-biometric-yubikey-at-microsoft-ignite/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12432" RevisionGUID="0990986e-4432-4283-a930-652aeada53d4" CreationDate="2019-11-20T23:58:04.437" UserId="7576" Text="I have a need for something that I can only describe as a &quot;drop mount&quot; or a vertical offset bracket for 100x100mm VESA mount holes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 3-monitor setup with an iMac as the middle screen, using [this](https://www.echogear.com/gaming-monitor-mounts/adjustable-triple-monitor-desk-mount/) monitor mount.  The problem with the iMac is that they have a very large &quot;chin&quot;, and the VESA mount kit that Apple sells is centered to the body, not the screen.  The result is that the two screens mounted to the sides are about an inch lower than the screen in the center.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I need is a bracket for the iMac with two sets of 100x100mm holes that are offset an inch from each other, so I can mount the center screen lower than the other two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest thing I've found is [this height-adjustable bracket](https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Accessory-Individual-Stand-VAD3/dp/B0741CFJVW?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B0741CFJVW) which would do the trick, but the problem is that it only supports up to 17.6 lbs of weight (the iMac weighs 20).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It shouldn't be this hard to find a simple metal plate with holes in it, but I'm having a hard time even figuring out what to call it, let alone finding one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43394" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12432" RevisionGUID="0990986e-4432-4283-a930-652aeada53d4" CreationDate="2019-11-20T23:58:04.437" UserId="7576" Text="VESA vertical offset mount bracket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43395" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12432" RevisionGUID="0990986e-4432-4283-a930-652aeada53d4" CreationDate="2019-11-20T23:58:04.437" UserId="7576" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="60cc632c-ec32-4b58-8840-ffc130ea844d" CreationDate="2019-11-21T09:59:20.537" UserId="13976" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="With the Black Fridays round the corner I am thinking about buying a new smartphone for me. Though because of privacy concerns I need an android one without having Facebook and gapps (I am fine with F-droid ones).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that both Fairphone and Librem 5 is on the expensive side for me, hence I want a cheaper one that I can easily change the Firmware with LineageOS. Also, I need one that I can buy from a physical store of from a store inside EU (for customs toll-free shipping) as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43399" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="f1a1d109-dfb3-4641-9f3a-d3d373522341" CreationDate="2019-11-21T11:01:30.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="37f36395-63c9-4a4d-a1b8-92f9036e0e4d" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:13:34.250" UserId="1410" Text="So, I just found [Papyr](https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/02/06/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Raytac MDBT50 module with Nordic nRF52840 BLE/802.15.4 SoC&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     1.54 inch 200x200 pixel red/black/white epaper display - GDEW0154Z04&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     CR2477 coin cell holder&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Micro USB (device)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     RGB LED&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     NFC (PCB) antenna&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Push button&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     USB/Battery power switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Extra GPIOs&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     SWD Programming header&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Mounting holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a similar device, but with BLE5.1, for it's Location features, so that I can use it as a tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any small (dev) board with BLE ***5.1*** will do (I am processor agnostic), but it ***must***  have a display - either eInk or OLED (even TFT), but preferably something battery friendly - and it ***must*** be either on-board or easily connected with something like a Grove connector; absolutely no soldering or hardware knowledge required. A bonus is an on-board debugger; failing that ability to us a J-TAG probe would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrnS3.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43406" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="37f36395-63c9-4a4d-a1b8-92f9036e0e4d" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:13:34.250" UserId="1410" Text="BLE5.1 with on-board eInk (or other display)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43407" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="37f36395-63c9-4a4d-a1b8-92f9036e0e4d" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:13:34.250" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;&lt;development-board&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12436" RevisionGUID="e758908d-cf95-4d4f-86f4-98f270f29a92" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:22:29.987" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43409" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12436" RevisionGUID="e758908d-cf95-4d4f-86f4-98f270f29a92" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:22:29.987" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12437" RevisionGUID="410b627d-3264-46ff-a220-f6a2714599de" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:22:29.987" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12437" RevisionGUID="410b627d-3264-46ff-a220-f6a2714599de" CreationDate="2019-11-22T08:22:29.987" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43412" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="7248200c-b682-46e7-940f-648d1b37c878" CreationDate="2019-11-22T10:16:06.900" UserId="1410" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a cheap, programmable drone, for use in UK, to use in a Minimal Viable Product for a system that will later use more highly spec’ed drones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to accept a programmed flight plan (*)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to carry an ESP32 (approx. 10g) and a coin cell battery (2.9g), possibly an altimeter of GPS sensor (I would guess 5g, max 10g)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Long flight time is not important, but I would like 5, preferably 10 minutes  &#xD;&#xA;•	Outdoor use, not indoor, although I can live with being restricted to calm days  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(*) I am not sure if UK law requires a human drone operator, rather than a programmed flight plan. If that’s the law, I will comply, but I have a strong preference for programming a series of waypoints. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43419" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12266" RevisionGUID="e44d889c-c055-4b04-911c-18dced81b97f" CreationDate="2019-11-22T16:02:25.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="11257902-39b4-41b0-a245-9d7941f2f7ff" CreationDate="2019-11-22T17:38:13.540" UserId="14012" Text="I would like to upgrade my laptop to have an external GPU. What's the state of things in late 2019?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer not to remove my WiFi card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well? My laptop has a USB-C port without support for Thunderbolt 3 and with reduced Bandwidth of around 5 Gbit/s. It also has a free USB 3.0 port. What's the optimal solution for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S Does this fit me? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861221054.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.34356e92lZTb7W&amp;algo_pvid=3b9fc933-48e2-43f9-ba56-48831a1d1f94&amp;algo_expid=3b9fc933-48e2-43f9-ba56-48831a1d1f94-2&amp;btsid=f355961d-2b4d-4442-97e5-8530d5390663&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_52&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related answer: https://superuser.com/a/1097008/1023037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43421" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="11257902-39b4-41b0-a245-9d7941f2f7ff" CreationDate="2019-11-22T17:38:13.540" UserId="14012" Text="Staet of eGPUs for laptops in late 2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43422" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="11257902-39b4-41b0-a245-9d7941f2f7ff" CreationDate="2019-11-22T17:38:13.540" UserId="14012" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43427" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="540cade8-71e8-4734-9be7-9b59275f9ea0" CreationDate="2019-11-22T18:19:53.177" UserId="10648" Comment="Spelling in question title" Text="State of eGPUs for laptops in late 2019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43428" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="540cade8-71e8-4734-9be7-9b59275f9ea0" CreationDate="2019-11-22T18:19:53.177" Comment="Proposed by 10648 approved by 14012 edit id of 960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43429" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12442" RevisionGUID="68d32fb4-6798-40b4-83b4-d2978b89cf7a" CreationDate="2019-11-22T18:21:35.943" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; What's the state of things in late 2019?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are currently two ways to install an external GPU to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- By using an internal PCIe connection and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.  &#xD;&#xA;This is often done through the port for the WiFi card. If your laptop is new enough it might have a spare M.2 port that supports PCIe for an SSD or a cellular modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- By using a Thunderbolt 3 port and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the near future USB 4.0 will incorporate the Thunderbolt 3 protocol. This will likely cause the current Thunderbolt 3 enclosures to be supported by a large number of laptops with USB 4.0 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C is only a connector specification; The signal sent over that USB-C connection could use either USB 3.x or Thunderbolt 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB 3.0, 3.1, 3.2 do not support PCI express.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 does support PCI express.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What's the optimal solution for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like the adapter you linked *might* work with the WiFi slot, but it will be significantly slower than a Thunderbolt 3 connection, and may bottleneck the GPU. If your laptop is new enough you might need to use an M.2 version of a kit like that, since many WiFi cards come in an M.2 slot now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43430" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12442" RevisionGUID="528e5661-ab97-4ebf-8d0a-9af52639965b" CreationDate="2019-11-22T18:31:24.560" UserId="10648" Comment="added 168 characters in body" Text="&gt; What's the state of things in late 2019?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are currently two ways to install an external GPU to a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- By using an internal PCIe connection and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.  &#xD;&#xA;This is often done through the port for the WiFi card. If your laptop is new enough it might have a spare M.2 port that supports PCIe for an SSD or a cellular modem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- By using a Thunderbolt 3 port and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the near future USB 4.0 will incorporate the Thunderbolt 3 protocol. This will likely cause the current Thunderbolt 3 enclosures to be supported by a large number of laptops with USB 4.0 support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No and yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;USB-C&quot; is a specification supporting USB 3.x. There is no support for exposing PCI express through USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 is an entirely separate specification that *supports* USB 3.x and PCI express. It also uses the USB-C connector but the port is considered a &quot;Thunderbolt&quot; port, not &quot;USB&quot;. Thunderbolt devices usually require a superior quality cable too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What's the optimal solution for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It looks like the adapter you linked *might* work with the WiFi slot, but it will be significantly slower than a Thunderbolt 3 connection, and may bottleneck the GPU. If your laptop is new enough you might need to use an M.2 version of a kit like that, since many WiFi cards come in an M.2 slot now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43434" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12444" RevisionGUID="b57305aa-6696-48e7-868b-e63bf27ccd27" CreationDate="2019-11-22T20:55:25.280" UserId="13812" Text="Think of an A/B box. Do those exist in reverse? Say I have an expensive looper and don't want another, or maybe I have a talk-box that I want controlled by both a keyboard and a guitar without having to also switch what my mic is plugged into. Does there exist a pedal or something that has two inputs and one output, where the two inputs don't affect each other? I would be satisfied by something that doesn't even mix the levels of the two instruments, but other people may want that, so include that if there is one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43435" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12444" RevisionGUID="b57305aa-6696-48e7-868b-e63bf27ccd27" CreationDate="2019-11-22T20:55:25.280" UserId="13812" Text="Signal &quot;joiner&quot; for guitar and other electric instruments?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43436" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12444" RevisionGUID="b57305aa-6696-48e7-868b-e63bf27ccd27" CreationDate="2019-11-22T20:55:25.280" UserId="13812" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12445" RevisionGUID="0e67ddb4-dc76-44fc-9ec2-78b3f723af1a" CreationDate="2019-11-22T22:05:04.080" UserId="10648" Text="You might just need an A/B box.  &#xD;&#xA;Most A/B boxes are just a simple switch between the two jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use them for two inputs, one output.  &#xD;&#xA;Or one input, two outputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12448" RevisionGUID="61475a80-b683-432f-9aff-37b6987fed95" CreationDate="2019-11-23T09:36:57.330" UserId="14016" Text="Mechanical keyboards are mostly just a trick to get people buy expensive keyboards. I think it's based on the retro hype, because keyboards used to be mechanical. Also people likes the feel and sound when you click the button. I like it too, but they are just awful for typing. Just like you said, they are too high. I tried this type of keyboard and my wrist got so damaged that I couldn't do anything with it. I switched back to normal keyboard and the problem was gone. I used that keyboard for 3-6 months. Didn't learn to type nearly as fast as with my low keyboard. When I switched back, it felt so fast. Especially when programming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes I miss the feel and sound of mechanical keyboard, but they are just too bulky to be ergonomic, like you said.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43443" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="1b2f5131-031a-4732-b580-7b03f0e3c147" CreationDate="2019-11-23T10:48:34.613" UserId="9825" Comment="Edited for clarity" Text="I want to upgrade my laptop to have an external GPU. What's the state of things in late 2019?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer not to remove my WiFi card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well? My laptop has a USB-C port without support for Thunderbolt 3 and with reduced Bandwidth of around 5 Gbit/s. It also has a free USB 3.0 port. What's the optimal solution for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S Does [this][1] fit me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related answer: https://superuser.com/a/1097008/1023037&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861221054.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43444" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12440" RevisionGUID="1b2f5131-031a-4732-b580-7b03f0e3c147" CreationDate="2019-11-23T10:48:34.613" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14012 edit id of 961" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43448" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="4e440a99-3b6d-4c45-b308-e8092444af7f" CreationDate="2019-11-23T13:17:08.250" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag and fixed spelling" Text="For an intensive video processing workflow (lot of sequential reading and seeking), I selected the 2TB Seagate FireCuda 510 SSD M2 and the 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus; they have few differences:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - FireCuda has better endurance: 2.6TB written, 1.8Mh MTBF vs 1.2TB written, 1.5Mh MTBF (970 Evo Plus)&#xD;&#xA; - FireCuda has better price: 293EUR vs 366EUR (970 Evo Plus, 25% more expensive)&#xD;&#xA; - 970 Evo Plus has slightly better read/write speeds: (3.5GBps, 3.3GBps, 620kiops, 560kiops) vs (3.45GBps, 3.2GBps, 485kiops, 600kiops)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other features are not significantly different. What do you recommend for my usage?  &#xD;&#xA;I already have a 970 Evo Plus 1TB for the system and for a part of the scratch work; both SSD will be on the Z390's PCIe channel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43449" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="4e440a99-3b6d-4c45-b308-e8092444af7f" CreationDate="2019-11-23T13:17:08.250" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag and fixed spelling" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43450" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11731" RevisionGUID="4e440a99-3b6d-4c45-b308-e8092444af7f" CreationDate="2019-11-23T13:17:08.250" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 10476 edit id of 962" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11771" RevisionGUID="acc66da4-5f6a-4953-a52d-a9231f853d64" CreationDate="2019-11-23T17:16:46.603" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling etc." Text="Both will be lightning fast. After investigation, the 970 is only a bit faster on sequential transfer such as big files, and a bit slower on games and program folders; i.e. for video seeking it will be faster. FireCuda accumulates all the advantages; speed by small margins, twice lifetime/reliability (like 970 Pro), 25% lower price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] https://www.pcmag.com/review/366078/samsung-ssd-970-evo-plus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2] https://www.pcmag.com/review/368665/seagate-firecuda-510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43452" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11771" RevisionGUID="acc66da4-5f6a-4953-a52d-a9231f853d64" CreationDate="2019-11-23T17:16:46.603" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by -1 edit id of 963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11771" RevisionGUID="f8cf47db-184f-4cbe-88ec-59d95bff004d" CreationDate="2019-11-23T17:16:46.603" UserId="10476" Comment="Spelling etc." Text="Both will be lightning fast. After investigation, the 970 is only a bit faster on sequential transfer such as big files, and a bit slower on games and program folders; i.e. for video seeking it will be faster. FireCuda accumulates all the advantages (speed by small margins, twice lifetime/reliability (like 970 Pro), 25% lower price).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1] https://www.pcmag.com/review/366078/samsung-ssd-970-evo-plus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[2] https://www.pcmag.com/review/368665/seagate-firecuda-510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43454" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10861" RevisionGUID="fdb8557e-4f64-434d-80f3-26e2e96580c0" CreationDate="2019-11-23T20:06:32.313" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a link to craigslist" Text="You could probably find a used Samsung Gear S2 in great condition for around $45 to $75, I know I have.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a look at [Craigslist][1] or your local similar sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Samsung Gear S2 is a great watch that is programmable through [Samsung Developers][2] and has a lot of downloadable apps and watch faces to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://craigslist.org&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://developer.samsung.com/galaxy-watch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="50ccd31e-ad36-4fb0-90d3-9b8791b82f80" CreationDate="2019-11-24T12:01:00.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43469" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="12430" RevisionGUID="d0e6d02c-61a5-44e3-ab98-11666685d463" CreationDate="2019-11-24T18:23:44.707" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43470" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="12430" RevisionGUID="c5e04e80-57a7-419f-844f-95c4ba2dc086" CreationDate="2019-11-24T18:23:47.933" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12452" RevisionGUID="af4f7e9c-fdc2-4a28-a24e-9da343489fd5" CreationDate="2019-11-24T23:01:05.017" UserId="14021" Text="Just trying to figure out what is the difference between `M.2 PCIe NVMe` and `M.2 2280, PCIe-NVMe, TLC` ?? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to choose one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mean which one is better?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVhAs.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43475" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12452" RevisionGUID="af4f7e9c-fdc2-4a28-a24e-9da343489fd5" CreationDate="2019-11-24T23:01:05.017" UserId="14021" Text="What is the difference between &quot;M.2 PCIe NVMe&quot; and &quot;M.2 2280, PCIe-NVMe, TLC&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43476" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12452" RevisionGUID="af4f7e9c-fdc2-4a28-a24e-9da343489fd5" CreationDate="2019-11-24T23:01:05.017" UserId="14021" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="d4d9500c-8d35-47bf-9a96-c122bc3c46d1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T01:14:39.513" UserId="13945" Text="I find that a laptop's physical user interface has a large impact on productivity.  Rigorously researching the [options](htt://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106) seems to be pointless if one doesn't have the opportunity to try the laptop before buying.  For example, my decision could spin based on the feel of the keyboard layout, travel and registration of key presses, registration of touchpad contact, and accuracy/naturalness of movement tracking on the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even being in a national capital city doesn't seem to alleviate the problem.  The national OEM offices defer to the big chains, like Canada Computer, Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart.  More often than not, they will not have the specific model(s) you're selected to try.  You end up spending weekends hurting the environment by booting around the city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having to order each one to try from he vendor, then returning it if it doesn't feel good, just doesn't seem practical.  Besides, you can't try handful before deciding.  You pretty well have to decide on whether to keep the current one without having tried the remainder on your list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the situation really this dismal in terms of rationally thinking one's way to a personal product that one will intimately rely on for almost a decade?  Is there some strategy that experienced IT folks use, of which I am unaware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43478" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="d4d9500c-8d35-47bf-9a96-c122bc3c46d1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T01:14:39.513" UserId="13945" Text="How to trial a laptop before buying" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43479" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="d4d9500c-8d35-47bf-9a96-c122bc3c46d1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T01:14:39.513" UserId="13945" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43480" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="32a160db-cd8a-4ca3-9ff0-490f2a4438f0" CreationDate="2019-11-25T03:20:02.453" UserId="13945" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="I find that a laptop's physical user interface has a large impact on productivity.  Hence, rigorously researching the technical [options](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106) seems to be pointless if one doesn't have the opportunity to try the laptop before buying.  For example, my decision could spin based on the feel of the keyboard layout, travel and registration of key presses, registration of touchpad contact, and accuracy/naturalness of movement tracking on the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even being in a national capital city doesn't seem to alleviate the problem.  The national OEM offices defer to the big chains, like Canada Computer, Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart.  More often than not, they will not have the specific model(s) you're selected to try.  You end up spending weekends hurting the environment by booting around the city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having to order each one to try from he vendor, then returning it if it doesn't feel good, just doesn't seem practical.  Besides, you can't try a handful *before* deciding.  You pretty well have to decide on whether to keep the current one without having tried the remainder on your list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the situation really this dismal in terms of rationally thinking one's way to a personal product that one will intimately rely on for almost a decade?  Is there some strategy that experienced IT folks use, of which I am unaware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43481" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="7800e009-d6ea-4b9e-83ce-e4cb9aad95d2" CreationDate="2019-11-25T03:27:34.527" UserId="13945" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I find that a laptop's physical user interface has a large impact on productivity.  Hence, rigorously researching the technical [options](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106) seems to be pointless if one doesn't have the opportunity to try the laptop before buying.  For example, my decision could spin based on the feel of the keyboard layout, travel and registration of key presses, registration of touchpad contact, and accuracy/naturalness of movement tracking on the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even being in a national capital city doesn't seem to alleviate the challenge of trialling the options.  The national OEM offices defer to the big chains, like Canada Computer, Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart.  More often than not, they will not have the specific model(s) you're selected to try.  You end up spending weekends hurting the environment by booting around the city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having to order each one to try from he vendor, then returning it if it doesn't feel good, just doesn't seem practical.  Besides, you can't try a handful *before* deciding.  You pretty well have to decide on whether to keep the current one without having tried the remainder on your list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the situation really this dismal in terms of rationally thinking one's way to a personal product that one will intimately rely on for almost a decade?  Is there some strategy that experienced IT folks use, of which I am unaware?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="ea7f3b5d-4dfe-4074-b6ee-ba7e0cea50bb" CreationDate="2019-11-25T04:19:00.640" UserId="13945" Comment="edited body" Text="I find that a laptop's physical user interface has a large impact on productivity.  Hence, rigorously researching the technical [options](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106) seems to be pointless if one doesn't have the opportunity to try the laptop before buying.  For example, my decision could spin based on the feel of the keyboard layout, travel and registration of key presses, registration of touchpad contact, and accuracy/naturalness of movement tracking on the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even being in a national capital city doesn't seem to alleviate the challenge of trialling the options.  The national OEM offices defer to the big chains, like Canada Computer, Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart.  More often than not, they will not have the specific model(s) you've selected to try.  You end up spending weekends hurting the environment by booting around the city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having to order each one to try from he vendor, then returning it if it doesn't feel good, just doesn't seem practical.  Besides, you can't try a handful *before* deciding.  You pretty well have to decide on whether to keep the current one without having tried the remainder on your list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the situation really this dismal in terms of rationally thinking one's way to a personal product that one will intimately rely on for almost a decade?  Is there some strategy that experienced IT folks use?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43483" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11836" RevisionGUID="b67ccf8b-95a9-4510-b6d1-c4c1f47fcaf1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T07:08:55.957" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43484" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11836" RevisionGUID="b67ccf8b-95a9-4510-b6d1-c4c1f47fcaf1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T07:08:55.957" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 4569 edit id of 965" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43485" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="7536a354-49ad-4552-a030-816d28b5dbb8" CreationDate="2019-11-25T10:40:39.093" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43486" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="7536a354-49ad-4552-a030-816d28b5dbb8" CreationDate="2019-11-25T10:40:39.093" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 5860 edit id of 958" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43488" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="6419403a-54d7-4131-81ef-244fffa9bbbc" CreationDate="2019-11-25T14:06:48.990" UserId="13590" Text="What is the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing Minecraft? I already have a graphics card, 256GB SSD, and a 600W PSU. I'll also use it for normal computer usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43489" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="6419403a-54d7-4131-81ef-244fffa9bbbc" CreationDate="2019-11-25T14:06:48.990" UserId="13590" Text="What's the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing Minecraft?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43490" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="6419403a-54d7-4131-81ef-244fffa9bbbc" CreationDate="2019-11-25T14:06:48.990" UserId="13590" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43497" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="aab65605-8e24-41d2-8a6b-9cea2610db8c" CreationDate="2019-11-25T20:51:26.000" UserId="13590" Comment="Details" Text="What is the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing Minecraft? I already have a graphics card, 256GB SSD, and a 600W PSU. I'll also use it for normal computer usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I'm playing Java Edition." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12458" RevisionGUID="e1806b65-7c0d-4002-99f2-0b0c1be84918" CreationDate="2019-11-26T00:14:34.327" UserId="1873" Text="Repeating comments as an answer.&#xA;&#xA;2280 is the size designation for an M.2 card, such as an SSD. This is the typical size for a PC.&#xA;&#xA;TLC is the type of memory used in the drive. It stands for *Three Level Cell* which means that each cell holds three bits. This is again typical for a consumer drive. MLCs, with two bits per cell, are used in high-end drives like the Samsung Pro series, while QLC, with four bits, are used in low-end drives like the Intel 660p.&#xA;&#xA;While this is likely a duplicate entry, but personally I would pick the one with more details, otherwise you could get a terribly overpriced Intel 660p.&#xA;&#xA;If that price is in USD the drive is expensive anyways - if you can and are able to put in the drive yourself, get something like the Kingston A2000 which has a suggested price of 99 USD for a 1 TB model. It should be good enough for any non professional uses." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="52552b5b-025e-4be1-a701-ab57a3cb2e99" CreationDate="2019-11-26T03:15:17.590" UserId="13945" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="I find that a laptop's physical user interface has a large impact on productivity.  Hence, rigorously researching the technical [options](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106) seems to be pointless if one doesn't have the opportunity to try the laptop before buying.  For example, my decision could spin based on the feel of the keyboard layout, travel and registration of key presses, registration of touchpad contact, and accuracy/naturalness of movement tracking on the touchpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even being in a national capital city doesn't seem to alleviate the challenge of trialling the options.  The national OEM offices defer to the big chains, like Canada Computer, Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart.  More often than not, they will not have the specific model(s) you've selected to try.  You end up spending weekends hurting the environment by booting around the city.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having to order each one to try from he vendor, then returning it if it doesn't feel good, just doesn't seem practical.  Besides, you can't try a handful *before* deciding.  You pretty well have to decide on whether to keep the current one without having tried the remainder on your list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the situation really this dismal in terms of rationally thinking one's way to a personal product that one will intimately rely on for almost a decade?  Is there some strategy that experienced IT folks use?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As requested, the country is Canada.  However, I don't consider ordering and returning laptops as a practical way to try them out, even if it is allowed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43500" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12459" RevisionGUID="9f33af4f-bc42-4e77-b597-de3a4381ccb3" CreationDate="2019-11-26T04:39:34.617" UserId="13053" Text="**Processor:** `AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX` - $115&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:** `Asus Prime B450M-A/CSM AMD Ryzen 2 AM4 DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 mATX Motherboard` $77&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Links provided below to buy these products**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: [Link to buy the processor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: [Link to buy the motherboard][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***NB: You can buy B450 motherboard from any decent brand***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_15?crid=13KVHKWNI1AYO&amp;keywords=b450%20motherboard&amp;qid=1574742606&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A2057506011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_36%3A1253505011%2Cp_89%3AAMD&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=pc&amp;sprefix=b450%2Celectronics%2C376&amp;sr=8-15&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Ryzen-Gaming-Motherboard-B450M-CSM/dp/B07FKV5HWJ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13KVHKWNI1AYO&amp;keywords=b450%20motherboard&amp;qid=1574742606&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A2057506011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_36%3A1253505011%2Cp_89%3AAMD&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=pc&amp;sprefix=b450%2Celectronics%2C376&amp;sr=8-2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="93a26bba-db2c-4d12-8b99-562a042c921a" CreationDate="2019-11-26T18:24:10.207" UserId="14032" Text="I have a dell D6000 docking station that provide me access to all my devices, including power to my laptop, I want to have the ability to switch the docking station to a second laptop without need to unplug and plug the usb-c cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am unable to found a a/b usb switch type c. Any recommendation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1skG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="93a26bba-db2c-4d12-8b99-562a042c921a" CreationDate="2019-11-26T18:24:10.207" UserId="14032" Text="Any A/B switch to use a dell docking station in two computers? Or any other solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="93a26bba-db2c-4d12-8b99-562a042c921a" CreationDate="2019-11-26T18:24:10.207" UserId="14032" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12463" RevisionGUID="3e9fa86f-257b-468b-9fcb-c6ba7af712aa" CreationDate="2019-11-26T19:49:08.853" UserId="14033" Text="We have a situation where we want to extend a second display (hdmi to large screen TV), Keyboard, and Mouse approximately 240-300 feet away from the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a situation where we can't really do remote control into the pc, or we'd do that, but it would be extremely beneficial to duplicate the display at the computer, with one down range about 250 feet away. In addition to that, it would be great if a person a that remote location could move the focus and type in 7 digit numbers from that remote display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been investigating and haven't found anything yet, but it seemed like someone would have come up with port extender or something that would work on a wifi network to accomplish things like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of anything that might work?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12463" RevisionGUID="3e9fa86f-257b-468b-9fcb-c6ba7af712aa" CreationDate="2019-11-26T19:49:08.853" UserId="14033" Text="Wireless (240-300') monitor/keyboard/mouse extender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12463" RevisionGUID="3e9fa86f-257b-468b-9fcb-c6ba7af712aa" CreationDate="2019-11-26T19:49:08.853" UserId="14033" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43516" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12421" RevisionGUID="ee9415fe-00f0-47f2-897f-972e1b018a56" CreationDate="2019-11-27T02:11:38.790" UserId="13986" Comment="Corrected the post to what the poster was actually after" Text="The Huawei E5788u-96a is a LTE router with CAT16 speeds&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com.au/Huawei-E5788u-96a-1Gbps-Mobile-Globally/dp/B075KMWV9K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is the Huawei H112-372&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.router-switch.com/huawei-5g-cpe-pro.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems that Huawei, Netgear, and HTC are the only companies at the moment that make gigabit LTE routers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43517" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12464" RevisionGUID="d92c6410-d89f-4d47-954d-723a8a7a9f9e" CreationDate="2019-11-27T12:01:32.503" UserId="14036" Text="My old Toshiba Satellite L500 13w is becoming slower. &#xD;&#xA;I have had few problems with it until now, it's been pretty reliable since I first bought it - brand new - about ten years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I changed the Rams for two 2GB ones, the HDD for a SSD, and it was doing really well until a couple of months ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It now refuses to load City Skylines, slows down when I am using Scrivener and open the online Thesaurus, and at times will suddenly disconnect the wifi and force me to use the Ethernet cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if it would be worth to change the cpu cores, or any other elements on the poor old guy, or if I should simply save for a brand new laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can do a few things - simple ones - like changing the rams and drives, and install new OSs, but am not much good at the rest, like knowing what is worth doing or not. For that reason I would appreciate solid advice from people who know the things I don't :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.    " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43518" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12464" RevisionGUID="d92c6410-d89f-4d47-954d-723a8a7a9f9e" CreationDate="2019-11-27T12:01:32.503" UserId="14036" Text="Upgrading an old Toshiba" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43519" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12464" RevisionGUID="d92c6410-d89f-4d47-954d-723a8a7a9f9e" CreationDate="2019-11-27T12:01:32.503" UserId="14036" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43522" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6298" RevisionGUID="84a3e43d-c25c-4426-9a0e-af84500e825e" CreationDate="2019-11-27T14:12:05.483" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a picture" Text="My favourite by far is the [mbeat 7 port][1] hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 4xUSB_3.0 + 3xUSB_2.0 - actually the USB 2's are really handy for incompatible Logitech gear.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Individual switches&#xD;&#xA; 3. Dull LEDs on the top that can be covered.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Good throughput - see my wiring layout below.&#xD;&#xA; 5. NOT compact, but its flat, with all ports along the one side - so its good to attach to the back of the table and use as a permanent dock/expansion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the AC adapter, but I just tested it without (I even plugged in an extra USB3-stick to see if I could trip it, and its fine).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's my usage to give you an idea of continual bandwith.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  7_U3 &gt; [USB3 AV breakout box][3] with HDMI, DVI, Analog audio used.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  6_U3 &gt; USB3 HDD (powered, WD3TB).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  5_U3 &gt; &lt;kbd&gt;Spare&lt;/kbd&gt; (for USB-sticks and the likes).&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  4_U3 &gt; Micro-USB lead for fast-charging my devices.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  3_U2 &gt; Multi-charger lead for random devices that come across my desk.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  2_U2 &gt; Logi G100 Keyboard &lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  1_U2 &gt; Logi M100 Mouse&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I use the toggles a lot for disconnecting the HDD or stop charging devices, or to temporarily disconnect phones etc that I am testing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/18565/mbeat-7-port-usb-3-0-powered-hub-with-switches/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUhs8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.displaylink.com/integrated-chipsets/dl-3000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43523" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="6298" RevisionGUID="84a3e43d-c25c-4426-9a0e-af84500e825e" CreationDate="2019-11-27T14:12:05.483" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 4841 edit id of 970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12466" RevisionGUID="e93e8c0f-ecd9-408f-92bc-c6b6a6ad3346" CreationDate="2019-11-27T18:29:47.343" UserId="14041" Text="For travel I have a Raspberry Pi 4 that I setup as a mini server and secure router. I added a battery to it, and a screen to show basic system statistics. It works well, but it's kind of bulky and ugly. Than I thought, I don't really need the RPi4. What I need is a smart phone that can run Linux in a headless mode. A phone will have WiFi, a battery, and a screen, and it will be in a more portable and sleek package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for a phone (preferably under $100-150) that can run Ubuntu or similar natively. I would want to completely erase Android an have it run Linux directly. I don't really care for GUI, I only need CLI support an access to WiFi and USB for adding an Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, anything in a small, portable package that has a battery, WiFi, and can run Linux will do." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12466" RevisionGUID="e93e8c0f-ecd9-408f-92bc-c6b6a6ad3346" CreationDate="2019-11-27T18:29:47.343" UserId="14041" Text="Android Phone capable of running Ubuntu (or any Linux)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12466" RevisionGUID="e93e8c0f-ecd9-408f-92bc-c6b6a6ad3346" CreationDate="2019-11-27T18:29:47.343" UserId="14041" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43530" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12212" RevisionGUID="5e5bb878-3ab8-4a4a-a6de-fb21c9e4bc33" CreationDate="2019-11-27T21:02:16.980" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a picture" Text="I think a device like this ['Twinkk USB C Splitter'](https://www.amazon.com/Twinkk-Converter-Headphone-Compatible-Essential/dp/B07PSB133P/) is what you're looking for.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs **$15.99** and allows you to charge your device while also plugging in a data connection (In this case, your ASUS Zenscreen) at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPFbE.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43531" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12212" RevisionGUID="5e5bb878-3ab8-4a4a-a6de-fb21c9e4bc33" CreationDate="2019-11-27T21:02:16.980" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 476 edit id of 971" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="06c12168-653d-4ccd-9446-fa7292a50716" CreationDate="2019-11-28T06:59:35.893" UserId="1410" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="So, I just found [Papyr](https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/02/06/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Raytac MDBT50 module with Nordic nRF52840 BLE/802.15.4 SoC&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     1.54 inch 200x200 pixel red/black/white epaper display - GDEW0154Z04&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     CR2477 coin cell holder&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Micro USB (device)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     RGB LED&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     NFC (PCB) antenna&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Push button&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     USB/Battery power switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Extra GPIOs&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     SWD Programming header&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Mounting holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a similar device, but with BLE5.1, for it's Location features, so that I can use it as a tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any small (dev) board with BLE ***5.1*** will do (I am processor agnostic), but it ***must***  have a display - either eInk or OLED (even TFT), but preferably something battery friendly - and it ***must*** be either on-board or easily connected with something like a Grove connector; absolutely no soldering or hardware knowledge required. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A major bonus is an on-board debugger; failing that ability to us a J-TAG probe would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrnS3.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12468" RevisionGUID="355f1057-9bf5-4312-8418-ea3e85dc17f9" CreationDate="2019-11-28T07:52:49.357" UserId="13572" Text="UBports makes a mobile version of Ubuntu for some select older phones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current version is [Ubuntu 16.04][1], released on Oct. 23rd of 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the officially supported devices - for which they offer an automated installer for Windows, MacOS and Linux - the OnePlus One (2014) seems to be the one that's least underpowered.&#xD;&#xA;The [BQ Aquaris M10 FHD][2] is also compatible, if you want a larger screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure about Ethernet compatibility for either of those though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option might be the more common Windows tablets with processors like Intel's Z3735 and m3-7y30, but driver compatibility might be more of an issue there when installing Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://devices.ubuntu-touch.io/device/bacon#&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://devices.ubuntu-touch.io/device/frieza" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43545" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="84aaadca-b619-4fb5-91bc-b32c550a82a5" CreationDate="2019-11-28T20:01:25.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12472" RevisionGUID="f9cf7abf-04c5-4c70-a0aa-bf6e1521d189" CreationDate="2019-11-28T22:01:34.760" UserId="14047" Text="Looking for a new lightweight laptop with decent power and long battery life. So far, I'm thinking the LG Gram 15/17 (need to go physically look at them and see which feels best), Zenbook or Swift. But open to any other suggestions. Ideal weight range would be in the 2.5lb range, give or take.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Total budget and country of purchase:**&#xD;&#xA;Not an issue, but not looking to go crazy. USA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications for the money? Pick or include any that apply.**&#xD;&#xA;2-1 sounds interesting, but not a necessity&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **How important is weight and thinness to you?**&#xD;&#xA;VERY. My whole purpose is to be able to do programming(both front and back end stuff) as well as business applications - email, doc, spreadsheets, etc. Also, streaming/watching movies on a plane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Which OS do you require? Windows, Mac, Chrome OS, Linux.**&#xD;&#xA;If I can get everything done on Linux, that would be great. Been a Mac user for 15yrs now (Windows 15yrs prior) and happy with the OS, for the most part (love being able to type sms messages on the laptop. kind of a big thing). I's be open to going back to Windows if I absolutely have to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.**&#xD;&#xA;My eyes are getting worse, so 15-17. 15&quot; feels to be a sweet spot. But I've heard that the LG Gram 17 actually feels like a 15, which sparked my interest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run.**&#xD;&#xA;Some light video/music/photo editing. Maybe some CAD down the line, Maybe some gaming. But neither are on my radar for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **If you're gaming, do you have certain games you want to play? At what settings and FPS do you want?**&#xD;&#xA;N/A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)?**&#xD;&#xA;Good keyboard, solid build quality. Enough power not to have the fans running all the time and depleting the battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.**&#xD;&#xA;Right now I am using a 2015 13&quot; MBP. Does the job ok, but as mentioned, anything a little more and the fans go nuts. Also, screen is a little too small. Need more real estate for side by side programming, graphics editing, etc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43548" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12472" RevisionGUID="f9cf7abf-04c5-4c70-a0aa-bf6e1521d189" CreationDate="2019-11-28T22:01:34.760" UserId="14047" Text="looking for ultralight laptop recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43549" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12472" RevisionGUID="f9cf7abf-04c5-4c70-a0aa-bf6e1521d189" CreationDate="2019-11-28T22:01:34.760" UserId="14047" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43555" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2c2802d0-a1bc-4061-8796-aedab18e4549" CreationDate="2019-11-29T15:40:47.937" UserId="1808" Text="I need a new laptop with at least a 128Gib ssd (without spinning drive) and Nvidia graphic gard and 16Gb of ram and **unlocked Intel cpu**. Not for overclocking or getting better ᴄᴘᴜ performance but for [changing execution speed of games](http://web.archive.org/web/20191129151711/https://superuser.com/questions/1506110/how-to-multiply-sleep-timings-for-a-specific-program-on-windows-or-linux) and [various programs which requires to complete tasks in a limited time the same way](https://workplace.stackexchange.com/q/138380).  &#xD;&#xA;This also requires a laptop bios/efi setup which allows changing such timings.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This mean a cpu model with a K in the name like i7-6700K or i9-9900HK for example](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/processor-numbers.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of cpu Power, I don’t want many cores. I want the fastest per thread performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw many high‑end new and used laptop for sale. But none of them featured a [cpu which allowing to have its clock speed capped below normal speed](https://superuser.com/q/1506110)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43556" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2c2802d0-a1bc-4061-8796-aedab18e4549" CreationDate="2019-11-29T15:40:47.937" UserId="1808" Text="Laptop with unlocked/K Intel ᴄᴘᴜ and with ssd" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43557" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2c2802d0-a1bc-4061-8796-aedab18e4549" CreationDate="2019-11-29T15:40:47.937" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="2a62d5e5-00d8-419c-975c-7e5dc719ad96" CreationDate="2019-11-29T17:33:07.443" UserId="13945" Comment="added 997 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have posted an early version of this question and vetted options [elsewhere](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106).  I am seeking a laptop with requirements that are hard to fulfill are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad, not clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad buttons&#xD;&#xA; * Synaptics Touchpad driver software&#xD;&#xA; * No nub (pointer stick in middle of keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; * 14&quot; monitor at 1366x768 resolution so that things aren't too tiny&#xD;&#xA; * Not Lenovo&#xD;&#xA; * Have to physcially try in Ottawa/Toronto (Canada) before buying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The less difficult requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Windows 10 64-bit(need home, will accept pro, but not needed)&#xD;&#xA; * 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD (more OK, but won't be used)&#xD;&#xA; * Fairly recent i5 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last point of the first list, I'm looking for keyboard layout that doesn't seem awkward, good registration and natural feel of key presses, good registration of contact with touchpad, natural feel of pointer tracking (not like you're controlling the pointer with wet noodle).  Sometimes, key registration is so unpredicatble that I'm hammering away at them like a kung fu master just to get predictable behaviour, which is critical for extensive use of combinations of hotkeys (for example, in vim text editor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The need for buttons and Synaptics is to get middle-mouse click-and-drag, which is not possible with Windows 10's 3-finger tap.  Synaptics lets me turn the left button into a middle button.  Left button actions can be done using only the touchpad by enabling &quot;Tap again and hold to drag&quot; and &quot;Locking Drags&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following alternatives are not viable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A clickpad is a deal breaker because click-and-drag requires keeping a finger on the touchpad while moving another finger to the depressable corner, which causes the pointer to move (unwantedly)&#xD;&#xA; * Dragging around a mouse is a deal breaker because I often don't have the surface space or I'm rushing off somewhere and don't have the luxury to looking for and ensuring that I bring accessories&#xD;&#xA; * I don't consider ordering and returning laptops as a practical way to try them out, even if such a policy is allowed as a matter of legal requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the short list that I link to above, I think I'm focusing on options #02 and #03.  I'm really not sure what the difference is.  From a few weekends of visiting brick-and-mortar stores, trying to find something that was selected from online research is impossible.  Yet the selections on display do not fulfill the difficult requirements above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43559" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="2a62d5e5-00d8-419c-975c-7e5dc719ad96" CreationDate="2019-11-29T17:33:07.443" UserId="13945" Comment="added 997 characters in body; edited title" Text="Seek 14&quot; laptop, touchpad, buttons, Synaptics Touchpad, &amp; trial-able before decision" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="1a454004-8693-4fd5-afa6-44c8d4c672dd" CreationDate="2019-11-29T17:40:23.217" UserId="13945" Comment="added 997 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have posted an early version of this question and vetted options [elsewhere](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106).  I am seeking a laptop with requirements that are hard to fulfill are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad, not clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad buttons&#xD;&#xA; * Synaptics Touchpad driver software&#xD;&#xA; * No nub (pointer stick in middle of keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; * 14&quot; monitor at 1366x768 resolution so that things aren't too tiny&#xD;&#xA; * Not Lenovo&#xD;&#xA; * Have to physcially try in Ottawa/Toronto (Canada) before buying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The less difficult requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Windows 10 64-bit(need home, will accept pro, but not needed)&#xD;&#xA; * 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD (more OK, but won't be used)&#xD;&#xA; * Fairly recent i5 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last point of the first list, physical trialling ensures that keyboard layout doesn't seem awkward, good registration and natural feel of key presses, good registration of contact with touchpad, natural feel of pointer tracking (not like you're controlling the pointer with wet noodle).  Sometimes, key registration is so unpredicatble that I'm hammering away at them like a kung fu master just to get predictable behaviour, which is critical for extensive use of combinations of hotkeys (for example, in vim text editor).  And sloppy pointer tracking just makes me end up clicking the wrong things, sometimes disastorously (Unless. I. Go. Very. Maddeningly. Slowly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The need for buttons and Synaptics is to get middle-mouse click-and-drag, which is not possible with Windows 10's 3-finger tap.  Synaptics lets me turn the left button into a middle button.  Left button actions can be done using only the touchpad by enabling &quot;Tap again and hold to drag&quot; and &quot;Locking Drags&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following alternatives are not viable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A clickpad is a deal breaker because click-and-drag requires keeping a finger on the touchpad while moving another finger to the depressable corner, which causes the pointer to move (unwantedly)&#xD;&#xA; * Dragging around a mouse is a deal breaker because I often don't have the surface space or I'm rushing off somewhere and don't have the luxury to look for and bring accessories&#xD;&#xA; * I don't consider ordering and returning laptops as a practical way to try them out, even if such a policy is allowed as a matter of legal requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the short list that I link to above, I think I'm focusing on options #02 and #03.  I'm really not sure what the difference is.  From a few weekends of visiting brick-and-mortar stores, trying to find something that was selected from online research is impossible.  Yet the selections on display do not fulfill the difficult requirements above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43572" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12476" RevisionGUID="e3482adc-a33b-41f5-99a8-ed1baf5fdc1f" CreationDate="2019-11-30T00:20:57.563" UserId="1974" Text="I'm having difficulty finding a Independent Portable 4K Capture Device that Records a 4K 60fps to SD or MicroSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By independent, I mean it does not require a computer; it is its own computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By portable, I mean that I don't want something as large as PC tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want perfect pass-through 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I'm recording live, and I want the exact 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I've recorded. I expect this to be expensive; that's ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43573" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12476" RevisionGUID="e3482adc-a33b-41f5-99a8-ed1baf5fdc1f" CreationDate="2019-11-30T00:20:57.563" UserId="1974" Text="Independent Portable 4K Capture Device that Records a 4K 60fps to SD or MicroSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43574" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12476" RevisionGUID="e3482adc-a33b-41f5-99a8-ed1baf5fdc1f" CreationDate="2019-11-30T00:20:57.563" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12476" RevisionGUID="f556590b-64e8-4ac4-aee8-5c8ba2ed7c46" CreationDate="2019-11-30T03:30:17.077" UserId="1974" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I'm having difficulty finding a Independent Portable 4K Capture Device that Records at 4K 60fps to SD or MicroSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By independent, I mean it does not require a computer; it is its own computer by itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By portable, I mean that I don't want something as large as PC tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want perfect pass-through 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I'm recording live, and I want the exact 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I've recorded. I expect this to be expensive; that's ok." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12477" RevisionGUID="0df805b0-7938-42eb-97fc-a917975a5d35" CreationDate="2019-11-30T09:31:52.293" UserId="14050" Text="I'm a big fan of what Acer has to offer in the thin and light department and their prices are good. Most come with backlit keyboards and easy upgrades like an open slot for a 2.5&quot; drive with a small m.2 NVMe so if you are partial to say a Samsung 970 Evo plus you can pay less and upgrade to exactly what you want. I am interested in checking out the the 2nd screen glass trackpad on the Zenbooks though. One other thing I have heard is that the intergrated graphics on the AMD CPU'S are much better than the Intel graphics. Plus the latest laptop Ryzens are catching up performance wise as well, but still seem to cost less because the general public is still willing to pay more for Intel models. Amazon definitely has the Acer deals right now for black Friday." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12478" RevisionGUID="9d7545f0-cb7c-4725-9140-f0fcb1ec65fa" CreationDate="2019-11-30T09:59:11.190" UserId="14050" Text="Maybe an older model barebones XPC. Comes with PSU and CPU fan/heatsink with MB in small but surprisingly capable case. You choose and install processor, memory, graphics card and storage. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12479" RevisionGUID="c2e8f300-3dc3-4eaf-9b6e-65e400cab075" CreationDate="2019-12-01T05:43:26.357" UserId="13053" Text="You can check the specification below to build a PC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Processor:**  `AMD Ryzen 5 3400G ( CPU Cores: 4; Threads: 8; GPU Cores: 11; Base Clock: 3.7GHz; Max Boost Clock: 4.2 GHz; Memory Channels: 2)` **$145**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard:**  `Gigabyte B450M-S2H (CPU: AMD Ryzen; Chipset: AMD B450; Memory: 2 x DDR4, Max. 32 GB; 3 x PCI Express slots)` **$70**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** `G.Skill RIPJAWS-V 8GB 2666bus Desktop RAM` **$40**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**HDD:** `SEAGATE BARRACUDA 1TB 7200 RPM SATA DESKTOP HDD` **$43**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CASE:** `Any decent casing with Power Supply` **$30**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;***Total price of the build is around $325, You can adjust the price downgrading the processor if you can't go beyond $300***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NB: You can buy a SSD later when you have money for boot drive, which will boost the performance of your PC**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12480" RevisionGUID="71b9164c-1996-4a16-a9e6-9577a668a2e1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T21:05:24.543" UserId="6491" Text="I need to test and wipe a few dozen SAS hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently using an [ICY DOCK DuoSwap MB971SP-B][1] which is connected to a low profile [Adaptec RAID 3805][2] card thanks to a SFF-8087 to 4x SATA cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One benefit is the **small size**, as I'm using this hardware in a Small Form Factor computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm however facing **several issues**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some hard drive models are incompatible with the card (e.g. Hitachi Ultrastar HUS156060VLS600) ; altough detected, they cannot be tested.&#xD;&#xA; - 10K and 15K rpm 3.5'' hard drives won't spin in the bay as the circuit board is not designed to deliver enough power.&#xD;&#xA; - the testing process is very slow for several reasons: the BIOS of the PCIe card takes long to load and I have then to manually create an array and add the drive to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using a true tower server would for sure let me test me more drives, but I'm trying to limit the space requirement as well as the required budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion for a compact configuration accepting a wide range of drive and speeding the testing process?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=141&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://storage.microsemi.com/en-us/support/raid/sas_raid/sas-3805/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12480" RevisionGUID="71b9164c-1996-4a16-a9e6-9577a668a2e1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T21:05:24.543" UserId="6491" Text="Compact and affordable solution to quickly test all kinds of SAS hard drives?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12480" RevisionGUID="71b9164c-1996-4a16-a9e6-9577a668a2e1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T21:05:24.543" UserId="6491" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43594" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="abc86963-8662-45f9-b662-a3fd5b39bac8" CreationDate="2019-12-01T23:02:05.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43595" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="5d285a04-bfc4-4b70-96cf-651a30e2637c" CreationDate="2019-12-02T01:19:58.783" UserId="13945" Comment="added 655 characters in body" Text="I have posted an early version of this question and vetted options [elsewhere](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106).  I am seeking a laptop with requirements that are hard to fulfill are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad, not clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad buttons&#xD;&#xA; * Synaptics Touchpad driver software&#xD;&#xA; * No nub (pointer stick in middle of keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; * 14&quot; monitor at 1366x768 resolution so that things aren't too tiny&#xD;&#xA; * Not Lenovo&#xD;&#xA; * Have to physcially try in Ottawa/Toronto (Canada) before buying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The less difficult requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Windows 10 64-bit(need home, will accept pro, but not needed)&#xD;&#xA; * 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD (more OK, but won't be used)&#xD;&#xA; * Fairly recent i5 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last point of the first list, physical trialling ensures that keyboard layout doesn't seem awkward, good registration and natural feel of key presses, good registration of contact with touchpad, natural feel of pointer tracking (not like you're controlling the pointer with wet noodle).  Sometimes, key registration is so unpredicatble that I'm hammering away at them like a kung fu master just to get predictable behaviour, which is critical for extensive use of combinations of hotkeys (for example, in vim text editor).  And sloppy pointer tracking just makes me end up clicking the wrong things, sometimes disastorously (Unless. I. Go. Very. Maddeningly. Slowly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The need for buttons and Synaptics is to get middle-mouse click-and-drag, which is not possible with Windows 10's 3-finger tap.  Synaptics lets me turn the left button into a middle button.  Left button actions can be done using only the touchpad by enabling &quot;Tap again and hold to drag&quot; and &quot;Locking Drags&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following alternatives are not viable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A clickpad is a deal breaker because click-and-drag requires keeping a finger on the touchpad while moving another finger to the depressable corner, which causes the pointer to move (unwantedly)&#xD;&#xA; * Dragging around a mouse is a deal breaker because I often don't have the surface space or I'm rushing off somewhere and don't have the luxury to look for and bring accessories&#xD;&#xA; * I don't consider ordering and returning laptops as a practical way to try them out, even if such a policy is allowed as a matter of legal requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the short list that I link to above, I think I'm focusing on options #02 and #03.  I'm really not sure what the difference is.  From a few weekends of visiting brick-and-mortar stores, trying to find something that was selected from online research is impossible.  Yet the selections on display do not fulfill the difficult requirements above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE:** To break my current impasse, I revisited some brick &amp; mortar establishments. I believe that focusing only on the requirements of 14&quot; display + touchpad buttons moves the otherwise impossible combination of requirements into the realm of the possible.  I can then vet away by brand, and if it doesn't have Synaptics, I can look up the manufacturer site for Synaptics drivers.  In my mind, there doesn't seem to be much point in contacting Synaptics, as each manufacturer needs to customize the drivers for their laptop models.  I got this guidance from helpful staff at one of the stores, just as it was closing, so I will need to see how well it works next weekend." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43596" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11791" RevisionGUID="11ef2f53-28d5-4279-ac58-81f07953661b" CreationDate="2019-12-02T10:42:23.977" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43597" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11791" RevisionGUID="11ef2f53-28d5-4279-ac58-81f07953661b" CreationDate="2019-12-02T10:42:23.977" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 13258 edit id of 976" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12481" RevisionGUID="d6d2adc7-cd25-4c20-b7d8-a0bbbe1a122a" CreationDate="2019-12-02T11:14:32.720" UserId="14054" Text="I want to replace the internal modem in my laptop with a better one because right now I drop out of every network all the time. Currently an Atheros ar5b125 (Half Mini PCI-E) is built in and I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a high-quality WiFi card suitable for my laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12481" RevisionGUID="d6d2adc7-cd25-4c20-b7d8-a0bbbe1a122a" CreationDate="2019-12-02T11:14:32.720" UserId="14054" Text="Asus F555U compatible WiFi card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12481" RevisionGUID="d6d2adc7-cd25-4c20-b7d8-a0bbbe1a122a" CreationDate="2019-12-02T11:14:32.720" UserId="14054" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="960474d4-f0e5-491a-ac11-49abe501c16b" CreationDate="2019-12-02T14:45:19.780" UserId="10163" Text="I have an Asus ROG Strix Scar GL703GS, and following a download canceled on Google Chrome, my WiFi card crashed. I do not know if this incident is related to the cancellation of the download, but it happened at that moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to reinstall the drivers of the WiFi card (Wireless radio control driver V1.0.0.9, 164.09 KBytes). Without success.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I continue to use the Internet over WiFi without using an Ethernet cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43602" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="960474d4-f0e5-491a-ac11-49abe501c16b" CreationDate="2019-12-02T14:45:19.780" UserId="10163" Text="Asus ROG Strix Scar GL703GS WiFi crashed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43603" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="960474d4-f0e5-491a-ac11-49abe501c16b" CreationDate="2019-12-02T14:45:19.780" UserId="10163" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="5bfde18e-b84e-41b6-9aab-6ab08e849145" CreationDate="2019-12-02T17:11:52.393" UserId="14056" Text="Can you guys please suggest which one of these LAPTOPS will be better and why? All of these have 8GB of RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Ryzen 5 2400U processor, GTX1050 4GB Graphics&#xD;&#xA;2. i5-8250U processor, Radeon 530 4GB Graphics&#xD;&#xA;3. i5-8265U processor, MX150 2GB Graphics&#xD;&#xA;4. i5-8250U processor, MX130 2GB Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think all of these processors are similar, am I correct?&#xD;&#xA;But I'm not so sure if graphics memory is more important, or graphics chipset?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help will be appreciated. Thanks. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43609" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="5bfde18e-b84e-41b6-9aab-6ab08e849145" CreationDate="2019-12-02T17:11:52.393" UserId="14056" Text="Which is better on a laptop- R5 2400U with GTX1050 4GB, or i5 8265U with MX150 2GB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43610" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="5bfde18e-b84e-41b6-9aab-6ab08e849145" CreationDate="2019-12-02T17:11:52.393" UserId="14056" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12485" RevisionGUID="1a876731-4dff-4363-9fbb-ccfd2668dd3b" CreationDate="2019-12-03T00:35:35.383" UserId="13953" Text="I don't have a direct answer for you, but may have a useful alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have worked with many computers of various flavors and long ago gave up the idea of switches for the various displays and keyboards and whatnot. Just too much of a pain. Instead I use exported displays (X windows for unix/linux, RDP for Windows). That way I can sit at exactly one monitor and see any or all of the machines with one keyboard and pointer. To avoid confusion I tend to put each machine on a different desktop, but that's just my preference. Using exactly one set of HID's makes the &quot;feel&quot; of each computer the same. An added advantage is that it is possible to cut-and-paste between computers, something I use more than I expected to. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12486" RevisionGUID="6ade562c-f846-4b2c-9c2e-645be5192964" CreationDate="2019-12-03T05:00:08.377" UserId="14057" Text="I'm looking for a small server to prepare my business item and collect data(some blog articles).&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I'm planning to run solution written by PHP or Python.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So, what I want to ask is which one is better, VM on the desktop I'm using(i7-930 with 16GB RAM) or an old laptop(i3 3217U with 4GB RAM)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Currently, I'm running IIS server with Windows 10 Pro on the old laptop.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;But still I'm considering other options.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I tried Ubuntu Server on laptop, but I can't configure WLAN because it doesn't have Ethernet port on it and solutions on the Internet not worked.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, only problem using VM on my desktop is I play various games on it.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So what should I choose?&lt;br/&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12486" RevisionGUID="6ade562c-f846-4b2c-9c2e-645be5192964" CreationDate="2019-12-03T05:00:08.377" UserId="14057" Text="I need recommendation for small server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12486" RevisionGUID="6ade562c-f846-4b2c-9c2e-645be5192964" CreationDate="2019-12-03T05:00:08.377" UserId="14057" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12487" RevisionGUID="e1cedf68-93c9-45f2-8ef8-0125194302ff" CreationDate="2019-12-03T07:31:27.570" UserId="1873" Text="If it's only for personal use then you don't really care about performance, a Raspberry Pi 3 would be enough (but beware filesystem errors).&#xA;&#xA;Otherwise get something cheap in the cloud. Hosting websites, especially if you want it up and running almost all the time has so much hidden costs (Internet, UPS, electricity, labor) it turns out cloud solutions are the cheapest option.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43617" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11373" RevisionGUID="072bdece-13f6-41f5-801f-845a89e6bb75" CreationDate="2019-12-03T08:22:30.857" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43618" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11373" RevisionGUID="072bdece-13f6-41f5-801f-845a89e6bb75" CreationDate="2019-12-03T08:22:30.857" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 12735 edit id of 972" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="2322b25c-f1dd-493f-9793-b1740d2c8d2d" CreationDate="2019-12-03T10:02:43.183" UserId="14058" Text="my PC died two days ago now i am not sure about if I should wait for a new Genaration of PC parts or get some rightaway. I am using the PC only for gaming and have 1,5k - 2k in €. At the moment i am using my XPS 15 for light gaming like League of Legends, but in general the most games i am playing are League of Legends, Escape from Tarkov, Borderlands 3, CoD Modern Warfare. Sorry for the english i am not a native one...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance&#xD;&#xA;Eric" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43620" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="2322b25c-f1dd-493f-9793-b1740d2c8d2d" CreationDate="2019-12-03T10:02:43.183" UserId="14058" Text="Wait to buy a PC or now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43621" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="2322b25c-f1dd-493f-9793-b1740d2c8d2d" CreationDate="2019-12-03T10:02:43.183" UserId="14058" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43622" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12489" RevisionGUID="914b93d8-3f41-4761-8adc-5e5b407012b4" CreationDate="2019-12-03T11:26:53.880" UserId="1873" Text="This depends on how long you are willing to wait. By recent leaks new enthusiast GPUs from both AMD and nVidia should be out around Q2 next year and mainstream in Q3. Both supporting ray-tracing. This is based on leaks though so tak it with a grain of salt.&#xA;&#xA;For the CPUs although Zen 3 is supposed to come out Q2/Q3, current CPUs are IMO enough.&#xA;&#xA;An old rule of thumb I heard was to never buy the first generation of new tech, here I'm thinking about ray-tracing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43626" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="052f73d6-312c-4165-aaf3-6c3e63b0c73c" CreationDate="2019-12-03T14:40:42.473" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="My PC died two days ago. Now I'm not sure if I should wait for a new generation of PC parts or get a new PC right away.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of €1,5k - 2k and I'm only using the PC for gaming.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment I'm using my Dell XPS 15 for light gaming like League of Legends, but in general the games I'm mostly playing are League of Legends, Escape from Tarkov, Borderlands 3, CoD Modern Warfare.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance  &#xD;&#xA;Eric" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43627" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="052f73d6-312c-4165-aaf3-6c3e63b0c73c" CreationDate="2019-12-03T14:40:42.473" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="Wait to buy a PC or buy now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43628" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="052f73d6-312c-4165-aaf3-6c3e63b0c73c" CreationDate="2019-12-03T14:40:42.473" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43629" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12488" RevisionGUID="052f73d6-312c-4165-aaf3-6c3e63b0c73c" CreationDate="2019-12-03T14:40:42.473" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 14058 edit id of 977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43630" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="f36d036d-fecd-40ca-9a54-2ab97df9871d" CreationDate="2019-12-03T17:01:10.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43631" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12489" RevisionGUID="ffb5fa62-5445-49d8-a219-58effff2c632" CreationDate="2019-12-03T21:30:38.797" UserId="1873" Comment="Updated info on Zen 3 release" Text="This depends on how long you are willing to wait. By recent leaks new enthusiast GPUs from both AMD and nVidia should be out around Q2 next year and mainstream in Q3. Both supporting ray-tracing. This is based on leaks though so tak it with a grain of salt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the CPUs although Zen 3 is supposed to come out sometime next year, current CPUs are IMO enough. And the gain, especially for gaming, will not be that high. (edited thanks to Romen's comment).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An old rule of thumb I heard was to never buy the first generation of new tech, here I'm thinking about ray-tracing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11783" RevisionGUID="f9f804a7-890e-42ef-bce6-bc76079125db" CreationDate="2019-12-04T04:52:36.213" UserId="13053" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="**Redmi K20 Pro would be the best option in your budget right now.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can see the main specifications below&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Processor: Snapdragon 855`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Ram: 6-8GB`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Storage: 64-128GB`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`3.5mm Headphone Jack: Available`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Battery: 4000 MAh`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Display: No Notch(Full display) running trend with 1080p Amoled panel`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Summary: This phone is very much reliable as it's build quality, stylish as it's following latest trends. Performance of the phone is high end.**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43640" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12494" RevisionGUID="8e809ec5-5874-43a3-94c3-f94fd4e5f3b5" CreationDate="2019-12-04T08:54:25.850" UserId="323" Text="I am helping my brother build a budget computer for his studies as animator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now the budget is very low, so I opted to buy a good CPU to futureproof any of his needs and buy a better graphics card in future upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did some research and I came up with the following processors:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**AMD Ryzen 7 2700X**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**AMD Ryzen 5 3600**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which do you think is the most suitable for this build." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43641" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12494" RevisionGUID="8e809ec5-5874-43a3-94c3-f94fd4e5f3b5" CreationDate="2019-12-04T08:54:25.850" UserId="323" Text="CPU recomendation for animator`s computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43642" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12494" RevisionGUID="8e809ec5-5874-43a3-94c3-f94fd4e5f3b5" CreationDate="2019-12-04T08:54:25.850" UserId="323" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12495" RevisionGUID="44021448-3ab2-4075-8478-94fae14c1723" CreationDate="2019-12-04T09:36:27.343" UserId="1873" Text="I have used the A50 for a few weeks after switching over to the Mi A3. It's a good phone, with good battery. The fingerprint sensor on the A3 is much more responsive that on the A50. Also the A50 has some issues with BT connections (can't speak for the A3) when the screen is off.&#xA;&#xA;Personally I would not buy a Chinese phone with a system different than Android One. Aside from potential security considerations, from practical perspective Chinese ROMs are known to aggressively kill background apps. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12496" RevisionGUID="0156eac9-59e3-4c16-a589-dfffdcec152d" CreationDate="2019-12-04T10:04:41.400" UserId="13053" Text="I would suggest you to go for **AMD Ryzen 5 3600**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `Ryzen 5 3600` is 3rd generation of AMD's processors and `Ryzen 7 2700X` is second generation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `Ryzen 5 3600` is based on latest **7nm** processor and `Ryzen 7 2700X` is based on **12nm**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `Ryzen 5 3600` is much more recent than `Ryzen 7 2700X`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `Ryzen 5 3600` requires **65W** and `Ryzen 7 2700X` requires **105W** to operate&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You can visit the link below to check the best review and comparison of both processors**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Ryzen 5 3600 vs Ryzen 7 2700X][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-7-2700X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600/3958vs4040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12497" RevisionGUID="34595e8a-4986-4caa-bc72-fd86f5557bdf" CreationDate="2019-12-04T11:39:41.673" UserId="13053" Text="**I would suggest you to go for 1. Ryzen 5 2400U processor &amp; GTX1050 4GB Graphics**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `GTX1050` is the best GPU among all of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; `AMD Ryzen 5 2400U` and ``Intel Core i5 8250U` performs very close." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43646" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12498" RevisionGUID="e614db30-1570-4ea2-af55-bffff04e135f" CreationDate="2019-12-04T13:22:43.583" UserId="14063" Text="This is hardware/software question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a label printer that allows me to configure it so that instead of creating each label individually I am able to set it to start from the ID 1000 and increment automatically and print until the unique ID has hit 2000?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would prefer the cheapest printer available however the budget is £500; if it exceeds the budget still please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43647" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12498" RevisionGUID="e614db30-1570-4ea2-af55-bffff04e135f" CreationDate="2019-12-04T13:22:43.583" UserId="14063" Text="Print x amount QR codes each with a unique ID" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43648" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12498" RevisionGUID="e614db30-1570-4ea2-af55-bffff04e135f" CreationDate="2019-12-04T13:22:43.583" UserId="14063" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43651" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12500" RevisionGUID="5bfdad9c-8143-47f6-892b-9c7aaf8d2d21" CreationDate="2019-12-04T15:49:35.013" UserId="14061" Text="**AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- socket AM4&#xD;&#xA;- 6-cores, 12-threads&#xD;&#xA;- base clock 3.6ghz, boost clock 4.2 ghz&#xD;&#xA;- cache: L1 = 384kb, L2=3mb, L3 = 32MB&#xD;&#xA;- TDP 65 watt&#xD;&#xA;- unlocked, over clockable&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-5-3600&#xD;&#xA;- current pricing $120 - $170&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700X**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- socket AM4&#xD;&#xA;- 8-cores, 16 threads&#xD;&#xA;- base clock 3.7 ghz, boost clock 4.3 ghz&#xD;&#xA;- cache: L1=768kb, L2=4mb, L3=16MB&#xD;&#xA;- TDP 105 watt&#xD;&#xA;- unlocked, over clockable&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-7-2700x&#xD;&#xA;- current pricing $140 - $170&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;both CPU's are on the same socket, the ryzen 7 2700X is the better based on more cores **and** higher frequencies, and higher L1 and L2 cache.  Any software that is cpu based will run faster on the r7-2700x compared to the r5-3600.  There is basically no price difference.  Total Dissipated Power of 65 watt versus 105 watt is not a deciding factor... if anything the higher wattage of the r7 further proves it can do more work that the r5.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43655" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="7763f1a9-c0ef-4472-af92-df89ee7c84da" CreationDate="2019-12-05T01:02:40.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43659" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12503" RevisionGUID="8315bc1d-ef29-4f04-b3e3-de9a11caf5e5" CreationDate="2019-12-05T04:29:51.747" UserId="13053" Text="You can take any of them between these two. Because both laptop has overkill specification according to the requirements of `Android Studio`. Android Studio requires SSD and 8GB Ram to perform well. But both of the laptop has 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (80YL00LXRA)** would be ideal choice if you don't want to spend more. But if you're looking for more performance, then you should go for **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (81BF00EGRA)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;=&gt; **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (81BF00EGRA)** will def build Android Studio projects faster than **Lenovo IdeaPad 520-15IKB (80YL00LXRA)**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12504" RevisionGUID="ce12ba49-36ae-4090-919e-159fffc9f9c7" CreationDate="2019-12-05T12:03:05.760" UserId="7115" Text="I am looking for a router+modem+wifi combo. I want this modem to be &quot;hackable&quot;. What that means is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should run some kind of linux, allowing to set custom cron jobs, adding features to the web UI and setting custom local domain. I don't need it to be open source, just &quot;hackable&quot; with some reasonable effort.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main requirement is this that it's possible to SSH into it and that I can reset it to factory settings if I screw up something." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43661" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12504" RevisionGUID="ce12ba49-36ae-4090-919e-159fffc9f9c7" CreationDate="2019-12-05T12:03:05.760" UserId="7115" Text="&quot;Hackable&quot; router+modem combo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43662" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12504" RevisionGUID="ce12ba49-36ae-4090-919e-159fffc9f9c7" CreationDate="2019-12-05T12:03:05.760" UserId="7115" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43663" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12505" RevisionGUID="2861897b-125e-436e-ba4b-54801cb345d9" CreationDate="2019-12-05T12:59:21.340" UserId="14069" Text="Check BOOK Max3, a 13.3&quot; E-book reader with a micro HDMI." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12506" RevisionGUID="e4c8d75d-db0b-4990-af0a-020d3465423d" CreationDate="2019-12-05T18:58:59.487" UserId="10648" Text="I would recommend the **Ryzen 5 3600** for these reasons:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The 3600 has faster *single core* performance, and almost matches the *multi core* performance of the Ryzen 7 2700X because of that. The Ryzen 7 2700X does a little better in [CPU rendering benchmarks](https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-3600/6.html) but you *should* be using a GPU for rendering anyways. That would make this small advantage irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The CPU needs only 65W, which is a ~40% power reduction over the 2700X.  &#xD;&#xA;That means the included CPU cooler will be adequate, and the system will not be as noisy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The 3600 has an [improved architecture](https://www.anandtech.com/show/14525/amd-zen-2-microarchitecture-analysis-ryzen-3000-and-epyc-rome) that provides several advantages over the 2700X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - PCIe 4.0 Support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - Infinity Fabric 2 - The DDR frequency no longer determines the CPU's internal fabric speed. Pairing a 2700X with cheap DDR4 RAM will have a greater consequence on overall performance than a 3600 with the same RAM would.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    - Significantly improved [AVX2](https://www.anandtech.com/show/14525/amd-zen-2-microarchitecture-analysis-ryzen-3000-and-epyc-rome/9) capabilties.  &#xD;&#xA;This instruction set is used in a lot of number-crunching applications, including video encoding. (Which an animator will be doing every time they export a video!)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My recommendation is based on both of these CPUs being the same price though. They are close enough in performance that whichever is less expensive is probably the better *value*." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12508" RevisionGUID="97ebc98b-d79d-4c91-b913-b9d34c4ecdd1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T21:20:39.863" UserId="14073" Text="I have wanted to set up a NAS for ages. I recently moved house and had to buy a [new fibre modem/router][1]. It has two USB 3.0 ports, and it'll be switched on all the time, so I figured it might be a low cost, low power way to get my NAS going.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want my NAS to be RAID 1, so I was looking at enclosures like the ones suggested [here][2] and [here][3]. However, I'm a bit nervous about compatibility issues between the USB enclosure and the router. Do devices like these always work nicely together these days?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I were plugging the enclosure into my PC, then I would feel confident that I could sort out any driver issues. But with the router's OS, I pretty much have to hope it just works, else I'm stuffed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any tips or suggestions! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.avm.de/products/fritzbox/fritzbox-5490/technical-specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9851/how-can-i-use-two-usb-external-hard-drives-by-mirroring-both-like-raid-1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9634/usb3-hub-that-can-handle-2-external-hard-drives-simultaneously/9651#9651" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43669" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12508" RevisionGUID="97ebc98b-d79d-4c91-b913-b9d34c4ecdd1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T21:20:39.863" UserId="14073" Text="USB3.0 RAID 1 enclosure that can be connected to my new router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43670" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12508" RevisionGUID="97ebc98b-d79d-4c91-b913-b9d34c4ecdd1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T21:20:39.863" UserId="14073" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12509" RevisionGUID="319f738c-ec24-4bc3-b739-19355054217e" CreationDate="2019-12-05T21:44:54.347" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; Do devices like these always work nicely together these days?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This depends on the dual-bay enclosure that you buy, but most of them appear to the computer as a USB hub with either one or two [USB storage class devices](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_mass_storage_device_class) attached to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the enclosure that I have used before (Mediasonic ProRaid), there is a physical switch to select how the disks are used. When it is in RAID 0 or 1 mode, the PC can only see one drive which is the virtual disk created by the RAID. I have tested this enclosure with multiple operating systems and it seems to work as a plug &amp; play USB drive, like any other USB hard drive or stick would.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since your router does support USB storage, I expect that *most* USB RAID 1 enclosures will be detected by the router as a single drive.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43673" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="050cb437-fe02-4d47-aadb-8bd1ff301814" CreationDate="2019-12-06T05:02:30.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12510" RevisionGUID="ec756672-d191-4e0f-93d2-3ca967ad16bb" CreationDate="2019-12-06T06:10:20.543" UserId="14074" Text="I'm going to build a computer, but I'm stuck on choosing a processor. I found two processors: Intel Core i7-9700K and i7-9750H. The 9750H, according to the official site, is a bit faster and has more threads. But, on Intel's website it's marked as `Mobile`. Does that mean it's incompatible or it's not recommended to use it in a desktop computer? If that's the case, can 9700K fill up like everything from gaming through 3D animation to programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43675" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12510" RevisionGUID="ec756672-d191-4e0f-93d2-3ca967ad16bb" CreationDate="2019-12-06T06:10:20.543" UserId="14074" Text="Intel Core i7-9700K vs 9750H" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43676" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12510" RevisionGUID="ec756672-d191-4e0f-93d2-3ca967ad16bb" CreationDate="2019-12-06T06:10:20.543" UserId="14074" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43677" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="54e728db-e258-4210-bd98-ffd896f68159" CreationDate="2019-12-06T12:02:15.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43681" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12495" RevisionGUID="4f979e43-2070-406e-aac2-eb4b7a1f3d93" CreationDate="2019-12-06T19:32:51.173" UserId="1873" Comment="Fix logic mistake, add extra info" Text="I have used the A50 for a few weeks, later switching over to the Mi A3.&#xA;&#xA;The Xiaomi is a good phone, with good battery. The fingerprint sensor on the A3 is much more responsive that on the A50, with Samsung having a history of botched under-display sensor firmwares. Also the A50 has some issues with BT connections (can't speak for the A3) when the screen is off.&#xA;&#xA;Personally I would not buy a Chinese phone with a system different than Android One. Aside from potential security considerations, from practical perspective Chinese ROMs are known to aggressively kill background apps. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43693" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12514" RevisionGUID="54565dd8-4e32-45e0-822d-1f78b082fd77" CreationDate="2019-12-07T00:25:58.867" UserId="1873" Text="The 9750H is a mobile processor, meant to be soldered to a laptop motherboard. It will not fit in a a desktop motherboard, nor will you be able to buy one. So for a desktop you don't have a choice. Unless you buy a notebook.&#xA;&#xA;That said, why would you buy the 9700K now? According to [benchmarks](https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2258?vs=2520) the cheaper Ryzen 7 3700X is slightly slower in some tasks (single or light threading),  but can be significantly faster in others (heavily threaded).&#xA;&#xA;That said, what you mostly care about, both for games _and_ 3D is single core performance and the GPU. Games tend to be lightly threaded, same as mesh editing. For programming it depends on your language, although I suppose build in any language are paralleled nowadays. Autocompletion in the IDE is more of a single thread stuff as well.&#xA;&#xA;As a side note - you definitely want an RTX. With both Blender and V-Ray supporting RTX it's a no-brainer as long as you have the budget. I've seen benchmarks where Blender render times were cut in half using hardware RT vs pure CUDA on the same card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43694" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12515" RevisionGUID="334a6515-0daf-4291-8488-d2b346c9388e" CreationDate="2019-12-07T00:47:58.360" UserId="10810" Text="I'm looking for a USB type C / Thunderbolt hub that offers several (minimum 2, but ideally more) USB-C ports, with at least one capable of charging. I've seen some of the suggestions on [this similar but old question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/2101/are-there-any-usb-c-splitters-hubs-with-multiple-usb-c-ports-in-existence), and was wondering if there are currently any better options (cheaper, more ports, charging-capable). Unfortunately, every hub I could find in my searches offered &quot;regular&quot; (type A?) USB 3.0 ports, not type C ones, or a variety of other ports like HDMI, DisplayPort, etc. Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43695" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12515" RevisionGUID="334a6515-0daf-4291-8488-d2b346c9388e" CreationDate="2019-12-07T00:47:58.360" UserId="10810" Text="USB-C hub with USB-C ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43696" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12515" RevisionGUID="334a6515-0daf-4291-8488-d2b346c9388e" CreationDate="2019-12-07T00:47:58.360" UserId="10810" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43697" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="fcbbdccd-0f5e-425e-9171-60ddd9f86ee4" CreationDate="2019-12-07T01:01:45.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12516" RevisionGUID="b6c1d1dd-0819-4246-a081-bf13a5c86581" CreationDate="2019-12-07T02:59:26.643" UserId="14047" Text="I got two systems to compare&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;============================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LG Gram 17(17Z990-R.AAC9U1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i7-8565U 1.8GHz CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16G mem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;512G ssd hdd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;===========================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and the&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;===========================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Swift 15&quot;(SF515-51T).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;i5 8265U 1.6GHz CPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8G mem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;256 G ssd hdd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;============================&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to compare the Swift and the LG side by side to see if the larger screen was worth it and to see the difference between the manufacturers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Initial impressions so far:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I like the 17&quot; screen, but can totally get by with the 15&quot;. I do like the more compact size of te 15 and am inclined to go that way&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I like the weight of both. They are very close. 2.2lbs vs 2.9&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Swift takes an edge on the keyboard feel as the LG has an offset keyboard. But honestly, it took about 5 mins to get used to the LG. One thing I do run into is there are some keys that are shortened on the LG. That's gonna take a little more getting used to. But all in all. Not a big issue for me&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Both boot up from a cold start in about the same time. The Swift restarts about 10 seconds faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I like being able to brighten/darken the display and raise/lower/mute the sound all without having to press a Fn button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The swift comes with a lot more bloatware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I absolutely HATE having no control over the 30 second keyboard backlight timeout on the Swift. I had this on an old IBM back in the early 2000's and it was a royal pia in darker situations to have to hit a key and then backspace every time i wanted to see the keyboard. It's really annoying that they don't give that control to the user. Sadly, I was leaning towards the swift until I ran into this. It's a deal breaker for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43699" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="7de20535-0456-4c2f-95f3-fdefd1f63049" CreationDate="2019-12-07T03:03:50.750" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12517" RevisionGUID="00bfd4d7-8c3a-41ef-9c16-3090e6e93248" CreationDate="2019-12-07T15:24:20.547" UserId="14080" Text="What Android devices are best placed for being putting into monitor/promiscuous mode? I asked on https://android.stackexchange.com/ and they suggested coming here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know the Nexus 5 is a good candidate but was looking at more recent devices such as Samsung S8 (onwards), Pixel 3 (onwards), One Plus One, Huawei etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43701" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12517" RevisionGUID="00bfd4d7-8c3a-41ef-9c16-3090e6e93248" CreationDate="2019-12-07T15:24:20.547" UserId="14080" Text="Android devices best placed for being putting into monitor/promiscuous mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43702" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12517" RevisionGUID="00bfd4d7-8c3a-41ef-9c16-3090e6e93248" CreationDate="2019-12-07T15:24:20.547" UserId="14080" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43703" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="95ea9ae4-1098-4ec3-87b8-82735094af6f" CreationDate="2019-12-07T17:02:20.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43704" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="f03e1de6-75d0-4944-b91b-12309854f8ca" CreationDate="2019-12-07T21:02:00.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43705" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="30886490-917d-409f-bddf-5971a8daf56e" CreationDate="2019-12-07T22:01:45.267" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43706" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="5c45b65e-0764-49a9-bbf7-1d30e23da5a6" CreationDate="2019-12-07T23:02:50.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12453" RevisionGUID="7f714476-a9c0-441b-ab56-3e365e3e54ff" CreationDate="2019-12-08T04:38:24.720" UserId="13945" Comment="added 2602 characters in body" Text="I have posted an early version of this question and vetted options [elsewhere](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/14-laptop-average-performance-touchpad-buttons.831080/#post-10969106).  I am seeking a laptop with requirements that are hard to fulfill are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad, not clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA; * Real touchpad buttons&#xD;&#xA; * Synaptics Touchpad driver software&#xD;&#xA; * No nub (pointer stick in middle of keyboard)&#xD;&#xA; * 14&quot; monitor at 1366x768 resolution so that things aren't too tiny&#xD;&#xA; * Not Lenovo&#xD;&#xA; * Have to physcially try in Ottawa/Toronto (Canada) before buying&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The less difficult requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Windows 10 64-bit(need home, will accept pro, but not needed)&#xD;&#xA; * 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD (more OK, but won't be used)&#xD;&#xA; * Fairly recent i5 processor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the last point of the first list, physical trialling ensures that keyboard layout doesn't seem awkward, good registration and natural feel of key presses, good registration of contact with touchpad, natural feel of pointer tracking (not like you're controlling the pointer with wet noodle).  Sometimes, key registration is so unpredicatble that I'm hammering away at them like a kung fu master just to get predictable behaviour, which is critical for extensive use of combinations of hotkeys (for example, in vim text editor).  And sloppy pointer tracking just makes me end up clicking the wrong things, sometimes disastorously (Unless. I. Go. Very. Maddeningly. Slowly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The need for buttons and Synaptics is to get middle-mouse click-and-drag, which is not possible with Windows 10's 3-finger tap.  Synaptics lets me turn the left button into a middle button.  Left button actions can be done using only the touchpad by enabling &quot;Tap again and hold to drag&quot; and &quot;Locking Drags&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following alternatives are not viable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * A clickpad is a deal breaker because click-and-drag requires keeping a finger on the touchpad while moving another finger to the depressable corner, which causes the pointer to move (unwantedly)&#xD;&#xA; * Dragging around a mouse is a deal breaker because I often don't have the surface space or I'm rushing off somewhere and don't have the luxury to look for and bring accessories&#xD;&#xA; * I don't consider ordering and returning laptops as a practical way to try them out, even if such a policy is allowed as a matter of legal requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the short list that I link to above, I think I'm focusing on options #02 and #03.  I'm really not sure what the difference is.  From a few weekends of visiting brick-and-mortar stores, trying to find something that was selected from online research is impossible.  Yet the selections on display do not fulfill the difficult requirements above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE:** To break my current impasse, I revisited some brick &amp; mortar establishments. I believe that focusing only on the requirements of 14&quot; display + touchpad buttons moves the otherwise impossible combination of requirements into the realm of the possible.  I can then vet away by brand, and if it doesn't have Synaptics, I can look up the manufacturer site for Synaptics drivers.  In my mind, there doesn't seem to be much point in contacting Synaptics, as each manufacturer needs to customize the drivers for their laptop models.  I got this guidance from helpful staff at one of the stores, just as it was closing, so I will need to see how well it works next weekend.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**  The above strategy of looking only for 14&quot; display models with buttons brought me up against a wall quite quickly.  It's a good thing that I stuck to the requirement of physically trialing the laptop before buying.  The models I found were low end, with unacceptable touchpad response and/or general computer response.  The pointer moves even as I try to lift my finger, and many seconds passed after typing before letters showed up, despite being lightly loaded.  My experience thus far is that the higher end (over $500 Canadian) gives acceptable response, though there is still a lot of subjective variability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have to migrate away from Windows 7 soon, and away from semi-functional laptop on which it resides, I had to loosen the criteria and admit other options.  Forgoing buttons+Synaptics and relying on a wireless mouse seemed too much, considering various scenario.  Expanding the size criteria to include 13&quot; to 15&quot; admitted some good HP options, and maybe others (I only got a short ways in my search after giving up on the 14&quot; criterion).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had interesting discussion with the now-familiar staff:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Considerations in performance and future proofing**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Don't future proof beyond 3-5 years, as quality of parts are poorer these days (my aim was 8 years)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * The more compact design also means more heat, which doesn't help&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Drives are not upgradable on some models, e.g, to move to SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Memory is not expandable on most models&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Future proofing means checking for upgradability or immediately going for SSD and more than 8GB RAM if possible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * The more advance heads up of HDD degredation is of limited use if one doesn't regularly perform [SMART](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.) checks (though I still find it reassuring to have that diagnostic option for when I run into strange situations)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * If I still hope the laptop will last 8 years, then at least go for i5 8th generation, if not 10th&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Interestingly, the number of cores can vary even within the same generation (most 10th gen have 4 cores while most 8th gen have 6)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * One of the low end 14&quot; with buttons had a 4GB RAM and Win 10 running in &quot;S&quot; mode, reducing capabilty and processor demand and making it more on par with smartphones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * The other low end 14&quot; with poor performance had a Ryzen 3.  At least for low integer values &quot;n&quot;, Ryzen &quot;n&quot; equates extremely roughly in performance to Intel i&quot;n&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Also interestingly, AMD is killing it in the desktop market, but is still struggling in the laptop market due to thermal throttling of it's clock" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43709" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="5fc3f712-ed8d-4683-9b19-75722f6210cf" CreationDate="2019-12-08T04:44:23.973" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43710" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="5fc3f712-ed8d-4683-9b19-75722f6210cf" CreationDate="2019-12-08T04:44:23.973" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 8015 edit id of 987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12518" RevisionGUID="268dcc69-206c-4b80-89d8-485911bf63c8" CreationDate="2019-12-08T07:22:31.423" UserId="14082" Text="I'm looking to buy a laptop before I start my engineering course, but I'm on a tight budget (~ $500). I have to run 3D modeling and design software, namely SolidWorks, MATLAB, Catia, Fusion360 (and probably others), for learning purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, can I run those software resonably well, on a laptop with integrated graphics, like Intel UHD 620 ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(If I go a little higher I *may* be able to get one with MX130 2GB, but even then I'm not sure if that would be enough.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So people, can you please advise?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43712" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12518" RevisionGUID="268dcc69-206c-4b80-89d8-485911bf63c8" CreationDate="2019-12-08T07:22:31.423" UserId="14082" Text="Can I run 3D modeling and design software on integrated graphics?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43713" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12518" RevisionGUID="268dcc69-206c-4b80-89d8-485911bf63c8" CreationDate="2019-12-08T07:22:31.423" UserId="14082" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43714" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="529213e4-5851-486e-9aab-17767826cf26" CreationDate="2019-12-08T10:39:35.940" UserId="14084" Text="A friend of mine has following laptop&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.in/3581-15-6-inch-i3-7020U-Windows-Graphics/dp/B07XZHHMVV/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/257-2749132-3964649?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07XZHHMVV&amp;pd_rd_r=1f7f87c6-7277-4e17-9b9a-df30116bed45&amp;pd_rd_w=UOM5a&amp;pd_rd_wg=fRvsp&amp;pf_rd_p=695cf2c3-c92f-40a6-82c6-fff7783abc65&amp;pf_rd_r=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;screenshot of msinfo32 command from his laptop&#xD;&#xA;1)https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FldsUSjDNyJGkLbhXO5B_7r2tyYCofvR&#xD;&#xA;2)https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAhIgi1-m1rffqqMQ92H-1eAPXQGK0Xj/view?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and how audio port to insert headphone looks is as follows&#xD;&#xA;3)https://drive.google.com/open?id=18KNzfLL4R_sPIYIj3Uc2KS26RnALgdPW&#xD;&#xA;3)https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ILquCn9VM9JvAjLIcwHLCpzDW3eAtf1g&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what he wants is a converter which can be used so that the same headphone can be used in android mobile phone&#xD;&#xA;and laptop.&#xD;&#xA;If it is visible in the screenshot then you see inside the hole in audio port there is one pin deep inside which is coming out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So we do not know what is the technical name for such a thing and with what keywords we should search. Let us know hardware terms which we can search in amazon to be used with this laptop Dell Vostro 3568.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43715" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="529213e4-5851-486e-9aab-17767826cf26" CreationDate="2019-12-08T10:39:35.940" UserId="14084" Text="what is technical name of hardware plug which is inserted in audio ports in laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43716" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="529213e4-5851-486e-9aab-17767826cf26" CreationDate="2019-12-08T10:39:35.940" UserId="14084" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43724" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9681" RevisionGUID="4b1ace53-64b6-4a3e-96d7-404a745d8d7c" CreationDate="2019-12-08T15:02:10.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12521" RevisionGUID="2520dc58-e76f-482d-a939-5638a84c7542" CreationDate="2019-12-08T15:11:37.220" UserId="14075" Text="Are there specific types of fans (not computer fans) that are intended for continuous use? If so, what are these called?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43726" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12521" RevisionGUID="2520dc58-e76f-482d-a939-5638a84c7542" CreationDate="2019-12-08T15:11:37.220" UserId="14075" Text="Fan type for continuous use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43727" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12521" RevisionGUID="2520dc58-e76f-482d-a939-5638a84c7542" CreationDate="2019-12-08T15:11:37.220" UserId="14075" Text="&lt;ventilation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43728" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="59e49190-1d1c-4f66-a546-c720fa34d203" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:00:45.207" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="53d57bb6-4ea6-4e62-b0b0-1b79def0ece4" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:22:07.873" UserDisplayName="user14086" Text="Initially i am having 4gb ram. So i want to increase the size of the ram to 8gb in my lenovo ideapad laptop. So is it possible to add extra 4gb.I want to know like if yes how does performance will be functioning?can any one give suggestion?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="53d57bb6-4ea6-4e62-b0b0-1b79def0ece4" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:22:07.873" UserDisplayName="user14086" Text="About installing extra RAM in Lenovo ieapad 330 intel i3 7th gen laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="53d57bb6-4ea6-4e62-b0b0-1b79def0ece4" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:22:07.873" UserDisplayName="user14086" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43732" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="9bd1b2b0-1935-49d7-a42b-b853331202b1" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:30:55.327" UserDisplayName="user14086" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43733" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="a1158362-9d92-4368-8146-18e00b752b51" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:07:52.693" UserId="10626" Comment="Inlined the links. Reformulated a bit to make it clear what the OP wants. Made it on-topic." Text="A friend of mine has [a Dell Vostro 3568 laptop][1]. Here are the screenshots of `msinfo32` command: [1][2], [2][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audio port looks like this: [1][4], [2][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He wants is a converter which can be used so that the same headphone can be used in Android mobile phone and laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it is visible in the screenshot then you see inside the hole in audio port there is one pin deep inside which is coming out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What sort of adapter is needed for it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/3581-15-6-inch-i3-7020U-Windows-Graphics/dp/B07XZHHMVV/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/257-2749132-3964649?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07XZHHMVV&amp;pd_rd_r=1f7f87c6-7277-4e17-9b9a-df30116bed45&amp;pd_rd_w=UOM5a&amp;pd_rd_wg=fRvsp&amp;pf_rd_p=695cf2c3-c92f-40a6-82c6-fff7783abc65&amp;pf_rd_r=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FldsUSjDNyJGkLbhXO5B_7r2tyYCofvR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAhIgi1-m1rffqqMQ92H-1eAPXQGK0Xj/view?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18KNzfLL4R_sPIYIj3Uc2KS26RnALgdPW&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ILquCn9VM9JvAjLIcwHLCpzDW3eAtf1g" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43734" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="a1158362-9d92-4368-8146-18e00b752b51" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:07:52.693" UserId="10626" Comment="Inlined the links. Reformulated a bit to make it clear what the OP wants. Made it on-topic." Text="What adapter do I need to connect the headphone to a laptop and a smartphone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43735" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="a1158362-9d92-4368-8146-18e00b752b51" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:07:52.693" Comment="Proposed by 10626 approved by 14084 edit id of 988" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43736" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="c5bed716-41d6-45e1-8446-9f85d0c113ea" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:09:20.780" UserId="14084" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="A friend of mine has [a Dell Vostro 3568 laptop][1]. Here are the screenshots of `msinfo32` command: [msinfo32 output1][2], [msinfo32 output2][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audio port looks like this: [audio part screenshot1][4], [audio part screenshot2][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;He wants is a converter which can be used so that the same headphone can be used in Android mobile phone and laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it is visible in the screenshot then you see inside the hole in audio port there is one pin deep inside which is coming out.&#xD;&#xA;We are looking for an adaptor which can be used with an android smartphone as well and the laptop also.&#xD;&#xA;What sort of adapter is needed for it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/3581-15-6-inch-i3-7020U-Windows-Graphics/dp/B07XZHHMVV/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/257-2749132-3964649?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07XZHHMVV&amp;pd_rd_r=1f7f87c6-7277-4e17-9b9a-df30116bed45&amp;pd_rd_w=UOM5a&amp;pd_rd_wg=fRvsp&amp;pf_rd_p=695cf2c3-c92f-40a6-82c6-fff7783abc65&amp;pf_rd_r=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=65P8Y6M52FYD9NV95BHK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FldsUSjDNyJGkLbhXO5B_7r2tyYCofvR&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAhIgi1-m1rffqqMQ92H-1eAPXQGK0Xj/view?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18KNzfLL4R_sPIYIj3Uc2KS26RnALgdPW&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ILquCn9VM9JvAjLIcwHLCpzDW3eAtf1g" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43737" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="f73cd304-3fc8-4ea9-902b-421c9e324763" CreationDate="2019-12-08T19:03:10.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12523" RevisionGUID="1c94f54c-8aa2-4f52-93b2-42f631405bfd" CreationDate="2019-12-09T05:04:37.027" UserId="13053" Text="**You can build a low budget PC for this work to run windows 10**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Check the PC build below**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Processor:` **AMD Ryzen 3 1200** = **$60**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`Motherboard:` **Gigabyte GA-A320M-S2H** = **$55**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`RAM:` **G.Skill RIPJAWS-V 4GB 2666bus Desktop RAM** = **$18**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`SSD:` **PNY CS2030 2280&quot; 240GB M.2 2280 PCIe Nvme Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)** = **$35**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`CASE:` **Any decent Desktop case with power supply** = **$20**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**This build will cost you around $190**&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12524" RevisionGUID="8b9a94cd-cfef-4b7e-808f-d5726448b4cf" CreationDate="2019-12-09T06:31:21.330" UserId="13053" Text="**You can upgrade your RAM by replacing the current one as this laptop has single RAM slot, but can't add another extra RAM due to lack of RAM slot.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`You can check the video I am providing the link below, how to upgrade RAM of your laptop`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Check this video from youtube][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vYAo_JrrSA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43741" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12525" RevisionGUID="85cf238b-b195-459a-bde4-5ab893baa177" CreationDate="2019-12-09T06:42:53.057" UserId="13053" Text="**You can run 3D modeling and designing software, but running and running well is not the same thing**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to work well with a computer you need to have a PC build with dedicated graphics card. Desktop will be the best choice for these kinds of works. If you want to buy laptop with 3D modeling capabilities you will have to spend much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You can check the link below to have a clear understanding of what kind of build do you need to work well with 3D modeling software and designing. You can comment if you need suggestion for a build.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[What-Performance-Specs-Should-Your-PC-Have-to-Handle-3D-Rendering][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.easyrender.com/3d-rendering/what-performance-specs-should-your-pc-have-to-handle-3d-rendering" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43742" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="3284fac5-932f-4f90-9680-b21f5bdd8209" CreationDate="2019-12-09T07:01:35.380" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43747" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12527" RevisionGUID="b48bc82a-5d2c-435e-8a48-12f1380983fb" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:19:11.320" UserId="13572" Text="Consider getting a used laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simple constructions worked well under CATIA on my Intel m3-7Y30 tablet (HD Graphics 615), but anything beyond that wasn't very usable.&#xD;&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;Graphics cards&quot;&quot;&quot; like the MX130 are usually worse than modern integrated GPUs like the Vega 8 or Vega 11 found in Ryzen CPUs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="da978610-0852-4ddd-8de6-5eeb9c402b15" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:54:21.550" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="Initially I'm having 4GB of RAM in my Lenovo Ideapad 330 laptop.  &#xD;&#xA;Now I want to know if it is possible to add an extra 4GB of RAM to a total of 8 GB of RAM.  &#xD;&#xA;If yes, what will it do to the performance?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43749" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="da978610-0852-4ddd-8de6-5eeb9c402b15" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:54:21.550" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="Installing extra RAM in Lenovo Ideapad 330, Intel i3 7th gen laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43750" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="da978610-0852-4ddd-8de6-5eeb9c402b15" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:54:21.550" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43751" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="da978610-0852-4ddd-8de6-5eeb9c402b15" CreationDate="2019-12-09T08:54:21.550" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 14086 edit id of 989" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12528" RevisionGUID="dd2f16bb-0fd3-4ae3-9617-2c0107924690" CreationDate="2019-12-09T11:26:41.787" UserId="14087" Text="Is there a device which you can feed an IPTV playlist to and outputs the signal via a coaxial cable, to be able to use on any new/old TV in the house?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Context: I have internet subscription but no cable TV subscription. My provider offers some of its channels for free via IPTV for all its internet users. I want to be able to watch those channels using my existing coax cabling, and without set-top-boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably I should be able to use 2 TVs at the same time each tuned to a different channel. If not, then 1 client will suffice. However, I want the TV to behave as it normally would using a real cable TV (e.g. use its remote, use its built-in settings to reorder the channels)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Sorry if this is the wrong place where I ask this question. I'm really confused as to which StackExchange site I should ask this question on. There's too many of them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43753" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12528" RevisionGUID="dd2f16bb-0fd3-4ae3-9617-2c0107924690" CreationDate="2019-12-09T11:26:41.787" UserId="14087" Text="Convert M3U IPTV playlist to Coaxial cable signal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43754" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12528" RevisionGUID="dd2f16bb-0fd3-4ae3-9617-2c0107924690" CreationDate="2019-12-09T11:26:41.787" UserId="14087" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12530" RevisionGUID="8ec7c4bf-62e4-473e-a060-dd71400948a2" CreationDate="2019-12-09T19:38:23.160" UserId="1448" Text="I'm looking for a small server to act as the central node in a cheap high-capacity NAS/SAN. The expected setup will be: central node running ZFS and providing a NAS interface to the outside; multiple cheap NAS nodes running AoE and presenting their attached disks to the central node over a dedicated Ethernet segment. I'm planning on GnuBee PC2 for the disk hosts. However, those have insufficient CPU and memory to run the ZFS process itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for the central node are thus:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - at least two Ethernet interfaces (one for the external network, one for the private segment with the disk hosts)&#xD;&#xA; - as much memory as possible (ideally 16 or 32 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - enough CPU to run encryption algorithms faster than disk access&#xD;&#xA; - good Linux support&#xD;&#xA; - no need for real storage on-device&#xD;&#xA; - lowest price available, given above requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've considered a Raspberry Pi clone, but they have less memory than I want; currently something in a mini-PC form factor seems good, but if there exists a single-board computer with enough memory it would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12530" RevisionGUID="8ec7c4bf-62e4-473e-a060-dd71400948a2" CreationDate="2019-12-09T19:38:23.160" UserId="1448" Text="Small server for NAS/SAN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12530" RevisionGUID="8ec7c4bf-62e4-473e-a060-dd71400948a2" CreationDate="2019-12-09T19:38:23.160" UserId="1448" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12532" RevisionGUID="8ab01975-5d6c-4ba6-a63d-63a92c6f2961" CreationDate="2019-12-09T22:12:26.893" UserId="14061" Text="I see on ebay used &amp; refurbished Dell optiplex and other HP stuff for as low as $24.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a legit copy of Windows 10 (32-bit) I've never seen for less than $99.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whatever hardware you get if it doesn't include windows, then you could go with a free linux OS like CentOS, SuSe or ubuntu.  And because you mention itunes, you would need to install `WINE` and you can read about that here: https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-itunes-on-linux-1999251&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also see refurb's on rottenegg for $44 and that apparently includes win10 but i'd be weary (it probably only means there's a windows authenticity sticker on the case).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FYI with any dell hardware if you can get a Dell Restore CD, that has windows on it and you could simply reinstall windows cleanly from that dell restore cd, a huge + going with Dell hardware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12534" RevisionGUID="cdf6ae3d-0b8e-42a3-83d8-0cd64aed7b5f" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:51:34.690" UserId="14092" Text="This is my first post in this forum, I posted this in another stackexchange forum and was redirected here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a network switch that provides a few features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1 - Manage multiple network ranges - I have 2 public /27 ranges, which I would like to manage from the switch, for example what IP addresses go to each server. I would also like the switch to be able to handle one or multiple private network ranges, and be able to tell the switch that public IP X.X.X.X should be mapped to a server which is using private IP Y.Y.Y.Y&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2 - Web management - This is a must. The switch will be at a datacenter, so I need a way to manage it, like I would do with an IPMI interface on a server. I would like to do all configuration of the switch from that web interface. It would be great if the switch's web interface would allow me to see bandwidth and other useful information regarding network usage from each of the servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3 - Load balancing - I would like the switch to be able to balance traffic between multiple servers, for example round robin between 3 private IP addresses requests that come for a give public IP address. Level 2 load balancing would be best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 - Firewall - I would like to be able to forward all requests to a given IP to a specific server, but I would like to have the option to block everything or leave just a specific port open at the switch level. I would be able to manage individual server's firewalls but also have the ability to control this from the switch for a given server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The idea is to be able to have the switch passthrough requests to public IP addresses if I want a server to have its network card configured with a public IP address, but also be able to configure a server with a private IP address and configure the switch to forward requests from one IP to another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this even possible? Or should I be approaching this in a different way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for any tips from people who have used equipments that do this, as I don't have experience with these sort of equipments. Even though I know this is not for opinion based answers, if anyone has experience with different brands and can shed some light into what works better, that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not looking for a specific brand, so Juniper, Cisco, FS, or any brand would be an option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I like this one but I am unsure if it has all the features I am looking for, still trying to determine from the documentation: https://www.fs.com/products/72945.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43771" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12534" RevisionGUID="cdf6ae3d-0b8e-42a3-83d8-0cd64aed7b5f" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:51:34.690" UserId="14092" Text="Looking for a network switch with multi network management capabilities, load balancing and web management" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43772" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12534" RevisionGUID="cdf6ae3d-0b8e-42a3-83d8-0cd64aed7b5f" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:51:34.690" UserId="14092" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12536" RevisionGUID="869884a9-b7c6-4de3-84ed-6ddd83017d17" CreationDate="2019-12-10T10:33:00.730" UserId="14093" Text="I know there are monitors capable of displaying 2 or 4 inputs at a time but Is there a device that can view 4 computer images on a monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43777" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12536" RevisionGUID="869884a9-b7c6-4de3-84ed-6ddd83017d17" CreationDate="2019-12-10T10:33:00.730" UserId="14093" Text="Is there a device that can view 4 computer images on a monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43778" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12536" RevisionGUID="869884a9-b7c6-4de3-84ed-6ddd83017d17" CreationDate="2019-12-10T10:33:00.730" UserId="14093" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12537" RevisionGUID="5f3cf5e4-a7da-4aac-b642-d1e566852747" CreationDate="2019-12-10T14:37:00.210" UserId="14094" Text="The idea is to grab an Intel NUC and plug one of these [SATA to M.2 adapters][1] into the M.2 port to connect four 3.5&quot; HDDs as part of a build-your-own NAS project.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The NUC however, cannot power the hard drives. I am looking for ideas on how to power these without a regular ATX/ITX power supply. I find that overkill for the simple job of providing 5/12V to hard drives. How would you do it? Any ideas are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Syba 4 Port SATA III to M.2 M+B Key NGFF NVMe and SATA Socket Adapter Converter Card SD-ADA40118][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did consider using a [PicoPSU][3] but have no experience with them and I don't know if it can provide power via it's HDD power connectors without the motherboard connector being plugged in. Why/not would you recommend this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5O4UNB&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3NBa.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TWE5E6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43780" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12537" RevisionGUID="5f3cf5e4-a7da-4aac-b642-d1e566852747" CreationDate="2019-12-10T14:37:00.210" UserId="14094" Text="How would you power multiple 3.5&quot; hard drives without using an ATX power supply?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43781" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12537" RevisionGUID="5f3cf5e4-a7da-4aac-b642-d1e566852747" CreationDate="2019-12-10T14:37:00.210" UserId="14094" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43784" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="126a6312-c0bd-4ba2-94ae-baba2743cee3" CreationDate="2019-12-10T19:02:45.263" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43785" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11895" RevisionGUID="5229d4a6-13c7-42b7-95a9-42716bf66001" CreationDate="2019-12-10T21:35:46.140" UserId="10648" Comment="added 1247 characters in body" Text="**Revised Answer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After taking a closer look at USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 and how they achieve video output, I don't think an adapter exists to connect an HDMI video source to connect to a USB-C display. Even the [official HDMI website](https://www.hdmi.org/spec/typec) shows the conversion as being one-way: USB-C to HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A major caveat is that sending HDMI over USB-C requires the video source to send additional signals that are not part of the HDMI specification; They're part of the USB-C specification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For conversion in this direction to work, an adapter would have to be a USB-C Host controller and signal to the monitor that it wants to use the HDMI alternate mode. Creating a video adapter that acts as a USB-C host device is not trivial, and almost pointless since most devices or screens have multiple video connectors to use instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that it may be *possible* to make such an adapter, but the demand for it is too low for any to exist yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**Old Answer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*&quot;This is 2019.&quot;* Yes, but [new video connectors don't always make things simpler.][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question seriously, the thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) connection uses a DisplayPort signal for video. Unfortunately HDMI to DisplayPort (in that direction) is not compatible with just a simple wire-to-wire converter. You actually need something known as an &quot;Active HDMI to Displayport Adapter&quot;, and obviously the displayport side needs to be the USB-C connector.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also fairly certain that the USB-C monitors get their power from the USB-C connection. If you have a monitor like that, the adapter would have to supply power too!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have never seen an adapter that meets all of those requirements so I cannot recommend one for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;It might be possible to combine two adapters:&lt;/s&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. HDMI -&gt; DisplayPort  &#xD;&#xA;This one must be active, so requires its own power usually from USB.&#xD;&#xA;2. DisplayPort -&gt; USB-C  &#xD;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;This one may be VERY hard to find in this direction but theoretically possible.&lt;/s&gt; (It probably doesn't exist.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Old Update:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It turns out that I entirely missed that USB-C (and thunderbolt 3) can output HDMI signals too (*as an [Alternate Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Alternate_Mode_2) on top of USB-C*). &lt;s&gt;That implies that USB-C displays (but not necessarily ones that *require* Thunderbolt 3) can accept HDMI signals through that connector. This raises some hope that there is a passive HDMI to USB-C cable/adapter out there.&lt;/s&gt; (This isn't possible without negotiating the video mode over USB first.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://xkcd.com/927/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12538" RevisionGUID="5947d6e7-da35-46c2-9a15-37ec38c59184" CreationDate="2019-12-10T22:29:08.403" UserId="14096" Text="I'm planning to build a GPU server with two Tesla V100 cards but I'm not sure about what kind of connection to ask: SXM2 or PCIe. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible to build an SXM2-based GPU server using only two Tesla V100? Are there any issues related to not fill all the slots?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And how expensive is an SXM2-based server in comparison with a PCI-e based?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance," ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12538" RevisionGUID="5947d6e7-da35-46c2-9a15-37ec38c59184" CreationDate="2019-12-10T22:29:08.403" UserId="14096" Text="Tesla V100 GPU server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12538" RevisionGUID="5947d6e7-da35-46c2-9a15-37ec38c59184" CreationDate="2019-12-10T22:29:08.403" UserId="14096" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12539" RevisionGUID="2da51e97-be11-4580-adef-45a81674379d" CreationDate="2019-12-11T04:16:52.233" UserId="14097" Text="I am in the unfortunate position of needing a wired network connection for my laptop. I also need to attach and remove the cable several times a day. A 10 foot cat 6 cable works great, and I have bought many of them. But I would like to find a cable with a more durable connector. After a few months of use, the little plastic locking latch/clip breaks off. I know these connectors are not designed for heavy use, but is anyone aware of cables with more durable connectors? Or even just a source for more durable connectors (I can assemble my own cables)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43790" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12539" RevisionGUID="2da51e97-be11-4580-adef-45a81674379d" CreationDate="2019-12-11T04:16:52.233" UserId="14097" Text="Where Can I Get a Durable cat 6 Ethernet cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43791" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12539" RevisionGUID="2da51e97-be11-4580-adef-45a81674379d" CreationDate="2019-12-11T04:16:52.233" UserId="14097" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43792" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="a83a9f86-3f5b-4fdc-9e36-3c86dc99603a" CreationDate="2019-12-11T08:03:25.490" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43793" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12540" RevisionGUID="2c6a7218-1ca9-470b-9b3e-275899d570a6" CreationDate="2019-12-11T08:48:51.077" UserId="14099" Text="The requirement is a HDMI to USB frame grabber internal card or a DisplayPort to USB frame grabber internal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I have found DP/HDMI to PCIe frame grabber internal cards. http://www.unigraf-china.cn/en/products/dp-compliance-test-hardware/ufg-04-dp/ https://www.unigraf.fi/products/frame-grabbers/ufg-07-hsdp https://www.epiphan.com/products/dvi2pcie-duo/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or is there a converter for sending the PCIe data from these cards across a USB port. In other words,is there a PCIe to USB converter ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43794" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12540" RevisionGUID="2c6a7218-1ca9-470b-9b3e-275899d570a6" CreationDate="2019-12-11T08:48:51.077" UserId="14099" Text="DP/HDMI to USB frame grabber internal cards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43795" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12540" RevisionGUID="2c6a7218-1ca9-470b-9b3e-275899d570a6" CreationDate="2019-12-11T08:48:51.077" UserId="14099" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12542" RevisionGUID="8cf73618-e0ee-410c-b050-fd950bf08996" CreationDate="2019-12-11T10:34:20.190" UserId="13636" Text="I'm looking for a physical weighing scale/machine that allows the cashier to weigh different groceries (one at a time, of course) - and the weight be reflected via bluetooth* into the cashier's smartphone. The cashier would select the item on his/her phone, capture the weight from the weighing scale and correspondingly the total bill will be generated. This device needs to be portable, as the cashier is on a mobile cart.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The items being sold are loose (NOT packaged), so they will be placed in a temporary container tray (so the machine will need a &quot;tare function&quot; - ie, weighing of the empty container, followed by the weighing of the grocery item + tray, so only the difference is considered).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Physical weighing scale/machine to handle loose items by weight&#xD;&#xA;2. Tare function (to subtract weight of holding tray)&#xD;&#xA;3. Accuracy to 1 g level (ideal)&#xD;&#xA;4. Commercial grade, meant for moderate daily use (~20-100 per day)&#xD;&#xA;5. Able to handle upto 10-15 kg of products per instance&#xD;&#xA;6. Bluetooth or similarly able to connect with smartphone app&#xD;&#xA;7. Displays live weight data on smartphone&#xD;&#xA;8. Live data can be accessed by our app on the smartphone &#xD;&#xA;9. Light weight (as much as possible)&#xD;&#xA;10. Battery powered (not requiring AC), able to last 8-10 hours with above usage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Or another communication mechanism. It can be wired, but I'll need to understand how the two devices will be linked together." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12542" RevisionGUID="8cf73618-e0ee-410c-b050-fd950bf08996" CreationDate="2019-12-11T10:34:20.190" UserId="13636" Text="Bluetooth enabled, portable, battery powered, weighing scale for groceries weighing (commercial use)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12542" RevisionGUID="8cf73618-e0ee-410c-b050-fd950bf08996" CreationDate="2019-12-11T10:34:20.190" UserId="13636" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43800" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="d4bb7e55-a646-496f-a9b6-66d9ca1891c6" CreationDate="2019-12-11T11:02:40.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43801" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="a16753f8-0509-46d7-8d6e-35791edb0a8e" CreationDate="2019-12-11T13:01:40.167" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12543" RevisionGUID="7b450d71-5a27-4203-b618-0cad6c259b76" CreationDate="2019-12-11T21:13:15.243" UserId="6089" Text="I first used &quot;rugged ethernet connector&quot; for search terms, but changed to &quot;industrial ethernet connector&quot; after seeing those terms in the search results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![rugged ethernet connector][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above photo is courtesy of [TE Connectivity][2], but other links appeared from the search, which may be better suited or less expensive, or easier to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This TE model certainly appears rugged and durable. No broken plastic clips when they are made of metal!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsuCm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/intersection/industrial-rj45/industrialrj45-ip20.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43805" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="e38df6a3-aba0-4cf9-9cdf-9fcfef8dc442" CreationDate="2019-12-11T23:02:25.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43812" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="3796f1c7-99e9-4751-9647-a8b9c6c49e77" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:07:17.740" UserId="14109" Text="I don't know how to search for tablets with replaceable battery. If I choose tablets in gsmarena search by tablet by features, it doesn't give me option for replaceable battery. Can you suggest me some? Better would be if method how to root it would be discovered and also bootloader unlocking available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43813" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="3796f1c7-99e9-4751-9647-a8b9c6c49e77" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:07:17.740" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me 10 or more inch Tablet with replaceable battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43814" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="3796f1c7-99e9-4751-9647-a8b9c6c49e77" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:07:17.740" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12546" RevisionGUID="e9ecbd65-88b5-4f65-bb1f-57104f39e143" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:43:52.820" UserId="14109" Text="I'm looking for battery for my laptop Acer Aspire 7745G. I need the largest possible capacity and for me it doesn't matter how heavy it is. As I read in Acer website, more cells means higher weight and capacity. But I didn't find explanation anywhere what's bond between mah and cells quantity. After all, mah also means battery capacity. Maybe you could also recommend me battery for Acer Aspire 7745G?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43816" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12546" RevisionGUID="e9ecbd65-88b5-4f65-bb1f-57104f39e143" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:43:52.820" UserId="14109" Text="What's bond between laptop battery cell quantity and mah? I need the highest possible capacity battery for Acer Aspire 7745G" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43817" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12546" RevisionGUID="e9ecbd65-88b5-4f65-bb1f-57104f39e143" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:43:52.820" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43818" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12546" RevisionGUID="e7296395-725d-4231-818f-72f04b32d4c6" CreationDate="2019-12-12T12:50:04.380" UserId="14109" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for battery for my laptop Acer Aspire 7745G. I need the largest possible capacity and for me it doesn't matter how heavy it is. As I read in Acer website, more cells means higher weight and capacity. But I didn't find explanation anywhere what's bond between mah and cells quantity. After all, mah also means battery capacity. Maybe you could also recommend me battery for Acer Aspire 7745G?(optional)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43819" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="f78b3421-1d27-4b6e-8a59-19c53472de29" CreationDate="2019-12-12T13:40:59.860" UserId="14109" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="I don't know how to search for tablets with removable battery. If I choose tablets in gsmarena search by tablet by features, it doesn't give me option for replaceable battery. Can you suggest me some? Better would be if method how to root it would be discovered and also bootloader unlocking available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43820" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="f78b3421-1d27-4b6e-8a59-19c53472de29" CreationDate="2019-12-12T13:40:59.860" UserId="14109" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="Suggest me 10 or more inch Tablet with removable battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43821" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12545" RevisionGUID="09146edf-2e5f-46e0-909d-2c37dae3cddb" CreationDate="2019-12-12T14:02:14.263" UserId="14109" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I don't know how to search for tablets with removable battery. If I choose tablets in gsmarena search using tablet by features, it doesn't give me option for replaceable battery. Can you suggest me some? Better would be if method how to root it would be discovered and also bootloader unlocking available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43825" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="4082c76e-8646-4f38-a079-34ef2b962f91" CreationDate="2019-12-12T21:16:51.243" UserId="13368" Comment="Strong edit" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** My fault for asking, USB-C Alt DP is made for embedded devices like phones and macs, not necessary for PC's, GPU's and Game Consoles (use HDMI/DP to Alt DP USB-C) and useless on displays. However USB-C on those is very useful as it replaces USB-A. Charging trough it only wastes a monitor port, something like AC DC is still economical more efficient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43826" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="f70bb1d4-922a-4d4e-ae13-5ecaf4b04dbc" CreationDate="2019-12-12T21:22:20.473" UserId="13368" Comment="Strong edit" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** My fault for asking, USB-C Alt DP is made for sportive/embedded devices like phones and macs, not necessary for PC's, GPU's and Game Consoles (use HDMI/DP to Alt DP USB-C) and useless on displays. However USB-C on those is very useful as it replaces USB-A. Charging trough it only wastes a monitor port, something like AC DC is still economical more efficient." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43827" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="b52255b9-edee-4c69-8784-52974459ed21" CreationDate="2019-12-12T21:27:29.550" UserId="13368" Comment="Strong edit" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** My fault for asking, USB-C Alt DP is made for sportive/embedded devices like phones and macs, not necessary for PC's, GPU's and Game Consoles (use HDMI/DP to Alt DP USB-C) and useless on displays. However USB-C on those is very useful as it replaces USB-A. Charging trough it only wastes a monitor port, something like AC DC is still economical more efficient. Good that we solved this before 2020!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43833" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="378de0e8-3eda-4185-80cd-f47ad53645d1" CreationDate="2019-12-13T09:02:10.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43834" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="c03fd9ba-55c2-41f5-9d35-61eee3783824" CreationDate="2019-12-13T11:02:20.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="983d0f97-fb0a-4357-8de4-8b36dcdf0ece" CreationDate="2019-12-13T17:01:00.200" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43837" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="cf999e59-8588-4906-9aac-8f3470efffe6" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:07.247" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="Tablet like smart screen without battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43838" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="cf999e59-8588-4906-9aac-8f3470efffe6" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:07.247" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43839" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="cf999e59-8588-4906-9aac-8f3470efffe6" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:07.247" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43840" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11055" RevisionGUID="f683f390-e8a5-40e6-98b3-4faf9fee9ca1" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:14.107" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43841" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11055" RevisionGUID="f683f390-e8a5-40e6-98b3-4faf9fee9ca1" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:14.107" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 912, 57 edit id of 953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43842" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="107b6bea-b2f1-4a45-a9c0-1809284ad339" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:18.750" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="I'm a big fan of Touhou games (PC-98 and Windows Era).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to make a custom console to be able to play them on tv (a plug and play like console).  &#xD;&#xA;For the PC-98 games, I was able to use a Raspberry PI with retroPie.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But now, I'm stuck for the windows games. I tried using Wine with a Linux environment to at least see if it would work. Which it didn't. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of my friends recommended me to get a microcontroller with an x86 processor for that task. So I searched for a list of microcontrollers with that kind of specs but only found some that cost more than 70€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a list of the specs I at least need to run these games : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DirectX 9.0&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2 GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 512 MB of VRAM&#xD;&#xA; - SD slot/16 GB of ROM&#xD;&#xA; - DirectSound&#xD;&#xA; - Less than 60 Euros&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if anything with these specs exists for that price, but I hope that I can at least get some possible alternatives &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43843" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="107b6bea-b2f1-4a45-a9c0-1809284ad339" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:18.750" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43844" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11127" RevisionGUID="107b6bea-b2f1-4a45-a9c0-1809284ad339" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:18.750" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 912, 57 edit id of 986" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43845" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="fefa999c-5dc7-4c0a-9baf-112dab0b11ff" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:24.147" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="Which is better on a laptop - R5 2400U with GTX1050 4GB, or i5 8265U with MX150 2GB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43846" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="fefa999c-5dc7-4c0a-9baf-112dab0b11ff" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:24.147" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43847" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12484" RevisionGUID="fefa999c-5dc7-4c0a-9baf-112dab0b11ff" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:24.147" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 978" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="b829faed-f944-4d1f-a612-3212dbfe577d" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:32.390" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="I have an Asus ROG Strix Scar GL703GS laptop, and following a cancelled download on Google Chrome, my WiFi card crashed. I do not know if this incident is related to the cancellation of the download, but it happened at that moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to reinstall the drivers of the WiFi card (Wireless radio control driver V1.0.0.9, 164.09 KBytes). Without success.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can get the WiFi working again?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43849" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="b829faed-f944-4d1f-a612-3212dbfe577d" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:32.390" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43850" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12482" RevisionGUID="b829faed-f944-4d1f-a612-3212dbfe577d" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:32.390" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 979" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43851" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11873" RevisionGUID="e0d04ff1-2fda-4fdd-9440-936d9fbebb56" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:35.883" UserId="-1" Comment="grammar and capitalization" Text="I want advice from you, which would be better between GTX770 2GB &amp; GTX960 2GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know GTX770 performs better in benchmarks, because it has 256 bits, and the GTX960 has 128 bits, but the gtx 960 is newer and support DX12 and I think it has better support for 4k videos. I'm a not gamer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But which better for photoshop &amp; lightroom ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My config:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU i7 3770K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Asus P8Z77 PRO&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Samsung SSD 256GB for system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;monitor LG 27UL550-W (4K Support with HDR10)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm on windows 7 64bit but I can switch To win10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43852" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11873" RevisionGUID="e0d04ff1-2fda-4fdd-9440-936d9fbebb56" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:35.883" Comment="Proposed by 50.236.10.142|c2ed9443-f6d6-4224-b7bf-7dfb17262129 approved by 57 edit id of 938" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43853" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="1d3fd1b3-341c-49aa-982d-0a34f8a32f7a" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:38.527" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the spelling" Text="I have a Dell D6000 docking station that provide me access to all my devices, including power to my laptop, I want to have the ability to switch the docking station to a second laptop without the need to unplug and plug-in the USB-C cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm unable to find an A/B USB switch type C.  &#xD;&#xA;Any recommendation?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1skG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43854" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="1d3fd1b3-341c-49aa-982d-0a34f8a32f7a" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:38.527" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the spelling" Text="Any A/B switch to use a Dell docking station in two computers? Or any other solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43855" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="1d3fd1b3-341c-49aa-982d-0a34f8a32f7a" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:38.527" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="135c894e-e8ee-434c-a5e7-d314f04090fb" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:41.397" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling..." Text="I'm looking for a single board computer or system on module that can handle simultaneous 4k HDMI input and output (optimally at 60hz)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43857" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="135c894e-e8ee-434c-a5e7-d314f04090fb" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:41.397" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling..." Text="Single board computer or system on module under 100$ that can handle 4k HDMI in + out" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43858" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12303" RevisionGUID="135c894e-e8ee-434c-a5e7-d314f04090fb" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:29:41.397" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 952" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2e088c41-b24f-4402-97c4-d2438f576632" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:03.453" UserId="10739" Comment="Small changes" Text="I need a new laptop with at least a 128Gib SSD (without spinning drive) and Nvidia graphic gard and 16GB of RAM and **unlocked Intel CPU**. Not for overclocking or getting better CPU performance but for [changing execution speed of games](http://web.archive.org/web/20191129151711/https://superuser.com/questions/1506110/how-to-multiply-sleep-timings-for-a-specific-program-on-windows-or-linux) and [various programs which requires to complete tasks in a limited time the same way](https://workplace.stackexchange.com/q/138380).  &#xD;&#xA;This also requires a laptop BIOS/EFI setup which allows changing such timings.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This mean a CPU model with a K in the name like i7-6700K or i9-9900HK for example](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/processor-numbers.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of CPU Power, I don’t want many cores. I want the fastest per thread performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw many high‑end new and used laptop for sale. But none of them featured a [CPU which allowing to have its clock speed capped below normal speed](https://superuser.com/q/1506110)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43862" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2e088c41-b24f-4402-97c4-d2438f576632" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:03.453" UserId="10739" Comment="Small changes" Text="Laptop with unlocked/K Intel CPU and a SSD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43863" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2e088c41-b24f-4402-97c4-d2438f576632" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:03.453" UserId="10739" Comment="Small changes" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43864" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12474" RevisionGUID="2e088c41-b24f-4402-97c4-d2438f576632" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:03.453" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43865" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="354adb53-787b-455f-8fa6-9a2ebb81b1c3" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:14.227" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43866" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12413" RevisionGUID="354adb53-787b-455f-8fa6-9a2ebb81b1c3" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:14.227" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 955" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43867" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="4263" RevisionGUID="69840e24-4ac8-4e49-b526-38ee7f4be4a6" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:18.283" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43868" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="4263" RevisionGUID="69840e24-4ac8-4e49-b526-38ee7f4be4a6" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:18.283" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 982" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43869" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="6c2acd1e-2f59-4ff1-bd85-c056ccbe0efd" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:30.043" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43870" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="456" RevisionGUID="6c2acd1e-2f59-4ff1-bd85-c056ccbe0efd" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:30.043" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 912, 57 edit id of 984" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43871" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="257f6d6a-4d82-41b0-846f-4b93c3157883" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:36.427" UserId="10739" Comment="Smaller changes " Text="I'm looking for a bluetooth headset which meets the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - primary use to talk on the phone, so audio quality must be good&#xD;&#xA; - wind cancelling, so if I'm riding a bike and talking on the phone, the other person will be able to understand what I'm saying&#xD;&#xA; - secondary use to interact with my phone (e.g. something like Google Assistant).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For point #2 I currently have a wind cancelling headset (up to 19mph), but audio quality isn't that great - sometimes I have people tell me they can't hear me even when I'm in a quiet room and switching to the phone mic immediately resolves the issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Point #3 is also important with regards to being able to instantly interact with my phone.  My current headset I have to tap a button, give a voice command which causes it to connect to the phone (assuming it doesn't think I said &quot;cancel&quot; which happens about half the time) and then there is about a 10 second wait until it connects. By this time whatever thought I wanted to record I am likely to have forgotten or the number of times it said &quot;cancel&quot; instead of connecting has made me abandon the attempt completely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Pixel Buds seem to have point #3, it appears they respond instantly and direct your audio to Google Assistant. However, I have read mixed responses to whether they work in the wind and am thinking they may have issues on a bike at 20mph - although whether this is with *hearing* the other person or them hearing me is uncertain." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43872" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="257f6d6a-4d82-41b0-846f-4b93c3157883" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:36.427" UserId="10739" Comment="Smaller changes " Text="Wireless headset with instant response that works in the wind" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43873" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10134" RevisionGUID="257f6d6a-4d82-41b0-846f-4b93c3157883" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:36.427" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 966" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43874" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="0bdc7ed3-6ba8-4ede-bdd9-6adf36d3f644" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:40.967" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43875" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="5727" RevisionGUID="0bdc7ed3-6ba8-4ede-bdd9-6adf36d3f644" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:40.967" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 912, 57 edit id of 990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="8d060246-6a11-41aa-84fb-68cb033e90cd" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:50.043" UserId="24" Comment="grammar++, meta content removal" Text="Is it possible only a component have a SIL level,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example is there a processor that have IEC 61508 SIL4 certificate or EN 50126 SIL4 certificate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there exists what would you recommend to me for processor." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43877" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="8d060246-6a11-41aa-84fb-68cb033e90cd" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:50.043" UserId="24" Comment="grammar++, meta content removal" Text="Is there any MPU, MCU or SOC that have SIL certification?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43878" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12376" RevisionGUID="8d060246-6a11-41aa-84fb-68cb033e90cd" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:50.043" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 57 edit id of 950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43879" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="94656f75-62c9-48ef-bdf1-32e509c2eaad" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:57.243" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43880" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7072" RevisionGUID="94656f75-62c9-48ef-bdf1-32e509c2eaad" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:30:57.243" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 985" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="0a454360-2088-45fb-8981-afd606a6c430" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:07.363" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="What is the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing the Java Edition of Minecraft?  &#xD;&#xA;I already have a graphics card, 256GB SSD and a 600W PSU.  &#xD;&#xA;I'll also use it for normal computer usage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43882" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="0a454360-2088-45fb-8981-afd606a6c430" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:07.363" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43883" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12455" RevisionGUID="0a454360-2088-45fb-8981-afd606a6c430" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:07.363" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 981" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43884" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="646f1fe4-f487-4a4a-8e2a-cdf7a8ee9736" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:11.980" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43885" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2429" RevisionGUID="646f1fe4-f487-4a4a-8e2a-cdf7a8ee9736" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:11.980" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 974" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43889" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="57d8ee71-9682-4508-9b93-0beea0c7aceb" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:22.200" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43890" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="2019" RevisionGUID="57d8ee71-9682-4508-9b93-0beea0c7aceb" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:22.200" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 57 edit id of 964" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43891" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12437" RevisionGUID="af3f7810-d611-473c-927b-467c78a26eae" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:31.363" UserId="1410" Comment="added 329 characters in body" Text="A microprocessor development board is a printed circuit board containing a microprocessor and the minimal support logic needed for a computer engineer to become acquainted with the microprocessor on the board and to learn to program it. It also served users of the microprocessor as a method to prototype applications in products" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43892" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12437" RevisionGUID="af3f7810-d611-473c-927b-467c78a26eae" CreationDate="2019-12-14T01:31:31.363" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 57 edit id of 959" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43893" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="3c6d8d66-ca9d-4543-a143-5ec3710089a3" CreationDate="2019-12-14T08:52:41.843" UserId="13974" Text="I've readed that the are not so fast, also reliability is the factor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My notebook has 8 years so I guess that all these new fast ssd memory technologies are useless for me, but I need something which will not break down (and loose all my data) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need it for media, video, photo production&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I trust that brand ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43894" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="3c6d8d66-ca9d-4543-a143-5ec3710089a3" CreationDate="2019-12-14T08:52:41.843" UserId="13974" Text="Patriot P200 SSD for old ZENBOOK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43895" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="3c6d8d66-ca9d-4543-a143-5ec3710089a3" CreationDate="2019-12-14T08:52:41.843" UserId="13974" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12549" RevisionGUID="37330c0f-0791-43c1-8a5b-2e48a8396979" CreationDate="2019-12-14T11:56:29.523" UserId="14117" Text="Not sure if this is the right place to be asking this question. But since this is hardware / PC related, and not woodworking, I think it would be the best place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently in the planning process to build a new dining table, that would be able to operate as a tabletop table, specifically card and/or pen and paper. For this, one of the ends will include a table-&quot;wing&quot; for the Gamemaster. In this wing I want to install two angled monitors and connect them to either a mini-pc or a custom built ITX pc. The PC itself is not the difficult part, the monitors are however. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for the monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2x Monitors (Size 15.6&quot; ~ 17&quot;, 16:9)&#xD;&#xA;- Touch capability&#xD;&#xA;- Either frame-less or panel based, for easy installation&#xD;&#xA;- Should run on either mini-DP, DP or HDMI. (if anyone have other suggestions please feel free to suggest it)&#xD;&#xA;- Voltage in the table would be either 220V or 24V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people have suggested that I simply scavenge some old laptops or monitors. While other people suggest trying to locate some on Ebay (or similar). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking that perhaps some of the people in this stackexchange might have experience with these types of custom builds. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43898" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12549" RevisionGUID="37330c0f-0791-43c1-8a5b-2e48a8396979" CreationDate="2019-12-14T11:56:29.523" UserId="14117" Text="Custom Build Tabletop Table" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43899" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12549" RevisionGUID="37330c0f-0791-43c1-8a5b-2e48a8396979" CreationDate="2019-12-14T11:56:29.523" UserId="14117" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;thin-mini-itx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12549" RevisionGUID="6b15ccc4-960b-4d8a-8857-7cb1f3cb37ed" CreationDate="2019-12-14T12:39:25.980" UserId="14117" Comment="edited body" Text="Not sure if this is the right place to be asking this question. But since this is hardware / PC related, and not woodworking, I think it would be the best place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently in the planning process to build a new dining table, that would be able to operate as a tabletop table, specifically card and/or pen and paper. For this, one of the ends will include a table-&quot;wing&quot; for the Gamemaster. In this wing I want to install two angled monitors and connect them to either a mini-pc or a custom built ITX pc. The PC itself is not the difficult part, the monitors are however. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for the monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 2x Monitors (Size 15.6&quot; ~ 17&quot;, 16:9)&#xD;&#xA;- Touch capability&#xD;&#xA;- Either frame-less or panel based, for easy installation&#xD;&#xA;- Should run on either mini-DP, DP or HDMI. (if anyone have other suggestions please feel free to suggest it)&#xD;&#xA;- Voltage in the table would be either 230V or 24V.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some people have suggested that I simply scavenge some old laptops or monitors. While other people suggest trying to locate some on Ebay (or similar). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was thinking that perhaps some of the people in this stackexchange might have experience with these types of custom builds. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12551" RevisionGUID="e0a7c659-b7eb-4f5d-acea-928016faae75" CreationDate="2019-12-15T00:19:38.400" UserId="14118" Text="I have an HP4400 swivel screen with monitor-stored stylus. The tldr is I want this with modern specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked to replace this twice, and failed both times. The most recent was in 2016 when I ended up with the iPad Pro - which is an amazing device with a fantastic pen and completely unusable. The only thing I can do with it is drawn notes because it is a nightmare for file transfer and cannot have any full-OS programs. Plus sandboxing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No to the 360 folding laptops - exposed keys are way too many kinds of stupid, and no “slightly list up lid for ctrl+z”. Detachable is okay but my preferred is swivel. I’d like light weight but function trumps all else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to be able to do handwriting, drawing, and typing, as well has have usb ports, sd card reader highly preferred, stylus (original iPad pro lacks a holder or magnet so the pencil is not always handy), and trackpad. I want something with specs high enough that in 2-3 years I m not running into “it cannot do x, and y doesn’t work, and z looks neat but . . . “ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my previous attempts and looking recently it looks like excluding the 360 laptops, I am left with fujitsus? The specs on those seem outdated - like most are 4gb of RAM. Pretty sure 8gb is low end now?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lifebook T939&#xD;&#xA;Stylistic Q739&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I missing some? Are these likely the best for me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What is your budget? &#xD;&#xA;Under 1k usd preferred&#xD;&#xA;Can do up to 2k usd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. What is the size of the notebook that you are considering? &#xD;&#xA;12”+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. What screen resolution do you want? &#xD;&#xA;I want to not hate it compared with the original iPad Pro screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Do you need a portable or desktop replacement laptop? &#xD;&#xA;Portable, but can work with a heavier laptop/lower charge although not ideal&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. How much battery life do you need? &#xD;&#xA;MIN 4+ hours, but all day is best&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Do you want to play games with your laptop? If so then please list the games that you want to with the settings that you want for these games. (Low,Medium or High)? &#xD;&#xA;Yes? I lack the internet to download or online play but if the laptop can do it I will. At this point I would be okay with low settings as long as I can play.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. What other tasks do you want to do with your laptop? (Photo/Video editing, Etc.) &#xD;&#xA;Internet browsing&#xD;&#xA;Handwriting, Drawing&#xD;&#xA;image editing, photo management, video clipping&#xD;&#xA;AutoCAD if possible, or open source versions&#xD;&#xA;GIMP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. How much storage (Hard Drive capacity) do you need? &#xD;&#xA;MIN 128GB if I use external storages&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;9. If you are considering specific sites to buy from, please post their links.&#xD;&#xA;No preference, refurbished is okay&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10. How long do you want to keep your laptop? &#xD;&#xA;Forever? I would prefer not replacing it in under 3 years - which is about as long as I have struggled with the iPad pro - and will likely keep it longer. I have had a lot of trouble finding the laptop I want to chances are this will be used more than 5 years and for high-spec needs get a tower build. Need reliable internet options first though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;11. What kind of Optical drive do you need? DVD ROM/Writer,Bluray ROM/Writer,Etc ?&#xD;&#xA;Oh! forgot about this. Disk drive would be great! Although unlikely. SD Card reader preferred. 3+ USB ports. HDMI would be nice but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;12. Please tell us about the brands that you prefer to buy from them and the brands that you don't like and explain the reasons. &#xD;&#xA;Swivel screen. &#xD;&#xA;Barring that, detachable.&#xD;&#xA;Not 360 flip.&#xD;&#xA;Those three eliminate enough that I know better than to quibble on logos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;13. What country do you live in? &#xD;&#xA;U.S.ofA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;14. Please tell us any additional information if needed.&#xD;&#xA;I would like if the gpu could handle 2-3 external monitors.&#xD;&#xA;! Stylus is key. Would like a good one. Would like a place to put it like sliding into the device body." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43906" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12551" RevisionGUID="e0a7c659-b7eb-4f5d-acea-928016faae75" CreationDate="2019-12-15T00:19:38.400" UserId="14118" Text="WTB Convertible Tablet PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43907" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12551" RevisionGUID="e0a7c659-b7eb-4f5d-acea-928016faae75" CreationDate="2019-12-15T00:19:38.400" UserId="14118" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43909" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12552" RevisionGUID="a0e9556d-da4c-405b-b724-c977b4d3aa3d" CreationDate="2019-12-15T07:47:13.710" UserId="14109" Text="I see that [this][1] battery is 8200 mAh, but capacity is above 5000 (see in &quot;Specifications&quot; tab. Or for example, somewhere I saw Laptop battery which is 7800 mAh but the real is 6000-6600 mAh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918885496.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.d3013a6bWMNOzN&amp;algo_pvid=ef8147bf-a4b1-4398-b3bc-62d5b87ced78&amp;algo_expid=ef8147bf-a4b1-4398-b3bc-62d5b87ced78-5&amp;btsid=c97441c4-160f-4357-a084-6a7cc9115ce4&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_55" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43910" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12552" RevisionGUID="a0e9556d-da4c-405b-b724-c977b4d3aa3d" CreationDate="2019-12-15T07:47:13.710" UserId="14109" Text="Is labelled mAh on battery always higher than real capacity whether it only applies for cheap batteries from China?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43911" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12552" RevisionGUID="a0e9556d-da4c-405b-b724-c977b4d3aa3d" CreationDate="2019-12-15T07:47:13.710" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43918" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12554" RevisionGUID="db0a8b2e-a405-4638-bc6a-7d16c1c0a985" CreationDate="2019-12-15T18:32:02.270" UserId="14120" Text="My son's pc has this motherboard: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-B450-F-GAMING&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The manual says that storage support is:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_B450_F_GAMING/E14401_ROG_STRIX_B450-F_GAMING_UM_WEB.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We have one Kingston A1000 240GB M.2 SSD M.2 2280, PCIe 3.0 x2, NVMe, 3D TLC already installed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking at this drive Kingston A2000 M.2 2280 NVMe PCIe Gen 3.0 x 4. Would it work with this setup?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.kingston.com/en/ssd/a2000-nvme-pcie-ssd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLebJ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43919" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12554" RevisionGUID="db0a8b2e-a405-4638-bc6a-7d16c1c0a985" CreationDate="2019-12-15T18:32:02.270" UserId="14120" Text="Suitable ssd for Asus ROG STRIX B450 F GAMING motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43920" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12554" RevisionGUID="db0a8b2e-a405-4638-bc6a-7d16c1c0a985" CreationDate="2019-12-15T18:32:02.270" UserId="14120" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43921" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12555" RevisionGUID="738089db-cfb6-4987-8400-4314374f806b" CreationDate="2019-12-15T19:01:32.993" UserId="14118" Text="I am looking to get a Nikon 5600 for night sky photography and sports (dog park, martial arts) stills and video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am settled on the Rokinon 14mm f2.4 for the night (edit: sky/stars) photography but have not found much for the sports lens and what I did find I was not finding for sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any photographers here with recommendations? I am okay with used/refurbished but want to stay under 1k usd total, including some memory cards, spare battery, and tripod.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking at just the body, but it looks there there are kits with one or both of, AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR and AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED Lenses. I really just need the one for night sky and one for action which I would prefer to have quality enough to not need replacing. I am looking for a dslr because my fringe uses do not work well with smartphone cameras.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I picked the Nikon 5600 because it looked able to do what I wanted and in store I liked holding it a ton better than the Canon T7i. They did not have the 7500 to hold but that one does not have a fully articulating screen." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43922" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12555" RevisionGUID="738089db-cfb6-4987-8400-4314374f806b" CreationDate="2019-12-15T19:01:32.993" UserId="14118" Text="WTB Nikon 5600 - what lenses?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43923" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12555" RevisionGUID="738089db-cfb6-4987-8400-4314374f806b" CreationDate="2019-12-15T19:01:32.993" UserId="14118" Text="&lt;camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43924" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="72b378ba-441a-4728-8ed4-007be28e0830" CreationDate="2019-12-15T21:03:00.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12556" RevisionGUID="1c59f790-a648-4a4a-af55-b35db5c904be" CreationDate="2019-12-15T23:15:57.843" UserId="14121" Text="I have laptop dell 5583 i7 and I want to get m.2 for it and I use it for flutter android studio&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;which one I choose&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; kingstone m.2 a400 240gb 500/500 read/write&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; adata xpg m.2 s11 nvme 240gb 3000/1500 read/write&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;will I benefit from the highest write/read rate on my laptop?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43926" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12556" RevisionGUID="1c59f790-a648-4a4a-af55-b35db5c904be" CreationDate="2019-12-15T23:15:57.843" UserId="14121" Text="i have dell 5583 i7 which ssd i choose?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43927" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12556" RevisionGUID="1c59f790-a648-4a4a-af55-b35db5c904be" CreationDate="2019-12-15T23:15:57.843" UserId="14121" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43928" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="75dea4ed-911e-42c0-9281-d4d6198a46dd" CreationDate="2019-12-16T05:02:05.237" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43929" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12557" RevisionGUID="2c1014a3-6269-4a87-ac67-d4e775eae26e" CreationDate="2019-12-16T05:09:11.390" UserId="3804" Text="I have a Bluetooth mouse &quot;**Terabyte 100031N Ultra Slim Wireless Mouse (Black)**&quot; and was planning to buy a XBOX one controller for my PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Was wondering if the controller needs specific Bluetooth dongle or will a generic Bluetooth dongle of my mouse work with the controller." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43930" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12557" RevisionGUID="2c1014a3-6269-4a87-ac67-d4e775eae26e" CreationDate="2019-12-16T05:09:11.390" UserId="3804" Text="Will the XBOX One Controller work work with my Bluetooth Mouse dongle?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43931" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12557" RevisionGUID="2c1014a3-6269-4a87-ac67-d4e775eae26e" CreationDate="2019-12-16T05:09:11.390" UserId="3804" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12558" RevisionGUID="6704fdad-c73c-42d7-91a4-f1aceb8b4f3c" CreationDate="2019-12-16T10:41:18.353" UserId="13572" Text="Yes, that will work. Lengthwise, it will fit in either slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As visible from the product pictures on the A2000 NVMe PCIe SSD, there are 5 pins on the smaller side of the key; that identifies it as an M key connector, just like the motherboard requires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do note the notes though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; When the M.2_1 Socket 3 is operating in SATA or PCIE mode, SATA6G_5/6 ports will be disabled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; *4 When the M.2_2 is occupied by M.2 device, PCIe x16_1 will run at x8 mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially the second point -. installing an NVMe SSD in the second slot - may create a throughput bottleneck for the graphics card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43936" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12560" RevisionGUID="c472a9c2-d2a6-4d23-be73-e23d26917e89" CreationDate="2019-12-16T13:56:36.097" UserId="12913" Text="It is unlikely that you will be able to. Mouse and keyboard receivers tend to come paired to the device in question. Or they may offer a way to pair a device, but there is nothing to say that this will be able to pair to another device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can try to check if you can pair anything to it by checking your computers Bluetooth settings to see if it detects a Bluetooth receiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this isn't the case, a quick check on Amazon shows Bluetooth receivers for around £5. I have used a cheap Bluetooth receiver for many years for Xbox controllers and headphones without issue." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43937" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12557" RevisionGUID="86a6d3b9-3606-4b1f-b48c-186e891ffeda" CreationDate="2019-12-16T17:27:09.273" UserId="10739" Comment="Added tags" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43938" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12557" RevisionGUID="86a6d3b9-3606-4b1f-b48c-186e891ffeda" CreationDate="2019-12-16T17:27:09.273" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 3804 edit id of 996" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12561" RevisionGUID="6be38c11-9a57-4c01-b838-71a691482055" CreationDate="2019-12-16T18:48:14.207" UserId="13053" Text="**Go for Adata XPG M.2 S11 NVMe 240GB**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    This SSD is not only faster also better life which may serve you for long time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43941" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="ca32abc4-234c-4a78-adf5-e91d8273dd18" CreationDate="2019-12-16T20:01:45.543" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43944" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12519" RevisionGUID="94bc1a4e-8615-43b8-977e-1ee05bfbfa03" CreationDate="2019-12-16T21:34:17.180" UserId="10648" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="43945" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12562" RevisionGUID="e15fffa1-4865-40c0-8d50-1f31d19733b1" CreationDate="2019-12-16T21:49:30.970" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; I have a ... &quot;Terabyte 100031N Ultra Slim Wireless Mouse (Black)&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This mouse](https://www.amazon.in/Terabyte-Ultra-Wireless-Mouse-BLACK/dp/B07BK5T43Z) does not use [Bluetooth](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth) at all. It is simply a &quot;wireless&quot; mouse that uses some sort of proprietary 2.4 Ghz signal to communicate with its USB dongle. That means **you can not connect any Bluetooth device to the dongle for that mouse**. It is unlikely that you can even use that dongle for another mouse of the exact same model!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Was wondering if the controller needs specific Bluetooth dongle?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Xbox One controller supports either the [proprietary USB adapter](https://www.xbox.com/en-CA/xbox-one/accessories/adapters/wireless-adapter-windows) (for all wireless controllers), or some newer controller models support Bluetooh 4.0. Bluetooth is a *wireless communication standard*, so that means *any* Bluetooth 4.0 dongle will work for those controllers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only the Xbox One S controllers can connect to a Bluetooth dongle. [Here is a guide](https://www.pcgamer.com/xbox-one-controller-on-pc/#how-to-connect-the-xbox-one-controller-via-bluetooth-xa0) to help you identify if you have the correct type of controller.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12565" RevisionGUID="d8e1d38b-fe9e-49d1-9549-997363286442" CreationDate="2019-12-17T10:21:46.333" UserId="13572" Text="Those SSDs are NOT comparable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first option, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Kingston SSD A400 m.2 240GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;is an mSATA m.2 SSD, the latter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; ADATA XPG GAMMIX S11&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;is an NVMe m.2 SSD - using PCIe instead of SATA for the connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to its manual [found here][1], your laptop supports NVMe SSDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/inspiron-15-5583-laptop_users-guide_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43953" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="d9650130-5628-4ed2-bbd4-178c5a2d6bc4" CreationDate="2019-12-17T12:02:20.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="43954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12566" RevisionGUID="8917b6df-14de-4389-b65e-127b962da9f9" CreationDate="2019-12-17T13:16:09.333" UserId="14125" Text="I'm thinking about buying a second monitor of the same model as my current main display (Asus MX279) and because it is now kind of old (I've bought mine in 2015) I have to buy it used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found someone near me selling one of these as &quot;new&quot; but I have no trust in this kind of claim so I would like to know if there is any way to check how much time the screen has been running?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I already have the same model I can install everything required on my laptop beforehand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your help!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12566" RevisionGUID="8917b6df-14de-4389-b65e-127b962da9f9" CreationDate="2019-12-17T13:16:09.333" UserId="14125" Text="How to know how much time a computer monitor has been on?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12566" RevisionGUID="8917b6df-14de-4389-b65e-127b962da9f9" CreationDate="2019-12-17T13:16:09.333" UserId="14125" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="c56517cb-ca13-44bd-a84c-eec906648046" CreationDate="2019-12-17T14:13:45.260" UserId="14109" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43958" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="c56517cb-ca13-44bd-a84c-eec906648046" CreationDate="2019-12-17T14:13:45.260" UserId="14109" Text="Is there any dual sim phone which can use both cards at once?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43959" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="c56517cb-ca13-44bd-a84c-eec906648046" CreationDate="2019-12-17T14:13:45.260" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43963" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="00020560-7f8f-401d-b00a-8274d81dde23" CreationDate="2019-12-17T15:50:04.353" UserId="14109" Comment="added 39 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? Could someone recommend me such phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43964" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="00020560-7f8f-401d-b00a-8274d81dde23" CreationDate="2019-12-17T15:50:04.353" UserId="14109" Comment="added 39 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is there any dual sim phone which can use both cards at once? If yes, could someone recommend me such phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="a812ffdf-f1c5-4578-9ece-956e500c07f6" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:04:35.487" UserId="14109" Comment="added 326 characters in body" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? Could someone recommend me such phone? Other preffered features:&#xD;&#xA;Removable battery, not less than 32gb storage, not less than 3 gb of ram, available bootloader unlocking, root, Xposed framework, OTG support, 4G, IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch, processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad. Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera. 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43966" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="4274bc7f-01ee-4d9f-96b7-7adcd50276fa" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:10:00.563" UserId="14109" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? Could someone recommend me such phone? Other preffered features:&#xD;&#xA;Removable battery, not less than 32gb storage, not less than 3 gb of ram, available bootloader unlocking, root, Xposed framework, OTG support, 4G, IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch, processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad. Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera. 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery. More than dual sim is also fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="aab7fb7f-6079-4030-b78f-f4133801f94b" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:17:43.137" UserId="14109" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? Could someone recommend me such phone? Other preffered features:&#xD;&#xA;Removable battery, water resistant, military complaint (like MIL-STD-810G compliant), not less than 32gb storage, not less than 3 gb of ram, available bootloader unlocking, root, Xposed framework, OTG support, 4G, IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch, processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad. Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera. 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery. More than dual sim is also fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="97b2a46a-4987-4295-9b13-ba12775b94a7" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:28:33.303" UserId="14109" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? Could someone recommend me such phone? Other preffered features:&#xD;&#xA;Removable battery, water resistant, military complaint (like MIL-STD-810G compliant), not less than 32gb storage, not less than 3 gb of ram, available bootloader unlocking, root, Xposed framework, OTG support, 4G, IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch, processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad. Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera. 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery. More than dual sim is also fine. SD card support not less than 64GB. FM radio. IR blaster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43969" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="f6242607-f660-4a3e-8b34-fdf5079d7e71" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:36:37.150" UserId="9356" Comment="formatting" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone recommend me such phone? Other prefered features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- water resistant; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- military complaint (like MIL-STD-810G compliant); &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 32gb storage;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 3 gb of ram;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- available bootloader unlocking; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- root;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Xposed framework;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- OTG support; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4G, 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- More than dual sim is also fine; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SD card support not less than 64GB; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- FM radio;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IR blaster." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43970" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="f6242607-f660-4a3e-8b34-fdf5079d7e71" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:36:37.150" Comment="Proposed by 9356 approved by 14109 edit id of 997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12567" RevisionGUID="e9f68252-82e8-47ab-863a-34afe4625f5f" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:43:41.020" UserId="14109" Comment="added 378 characters in body" Text="I have 2 sim cards. One provides me internet, another provides calling and SMS. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't use internet while someone is calling me. Are there any phones on which I can use internet when someone is calling me? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone recommend me such phone? Other prefered features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- water resistant; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- military complaint (like MIL-STD-810G compliant); &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 32gb storage;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 3 gb of ram;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- available bootloader unlocking; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- root;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Xposed framework;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- OTG support; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4G, 5G but as I know there are no 5G phones with removable battery; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IPS or PLS LCD screen, not less than 4,5 inch; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- More than dual sim is also fine; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SD card support not less than 64GB; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- FM radio;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IR blaster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most important features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Removable battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 16GB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- root&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- bootloader unlocking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- xposed framework&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- otg support&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 4G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- SD card dedicated slot not less than 64GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- LCD IPS or PLS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- not less than 2 GB of ram&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- processor not less than 1,4 Ghz quad&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Camera not less than 14 MP unless it has exclusively good camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Screen not less than 4,5 inch&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43972" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12569" RevisionGUID="bb1fd8ae-39ac-4a64-b73d-b642ae6958e5" CreationDate="2019-12-17T17:07:04.590" UserId="14125" Text="After some more research, I have found a solution : **the factory menu** (or service menu)!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To open this menu on my monitor, the procedure is the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Turn on the monitor while keeping the &quot;Menu&quot; button pressed&#xD;&#xA; - As soon as something appears, release the button and press it again&#xD;&#xA; - the normal menu appear, but a little &quot;F&quot; is now visible on the bottom left, select it and press &quot;Menu&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the service menu appears, mine looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you think about 13k hours of operation? How many hours do you think it has left?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GR9J3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12570" RevisionGUID="2464816e-2239-4dfc-abad-9ffd36f11d00" CreationDate="2019-12-17T23:09:41.547" UserId="14128" Text="You most definitely need at least 8 gigs of RAM on a gaming computer; ideally you should have 16 gigs, and more than 16 will be overkill and a waste of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also highly recommended to use an SSD for your operating system and HDD for general storage, including games. Many modern games come with Denuvo DRM, which, in short, kills your HDD if the game is on it. Having your OS on a HDD that is getting murdered constantly is dangerous. If the game is on an SSD, there will be no harm done to it, due to the nature of SSDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GTX 1050 Ti is kinda outdated. It can run indie games like DoS2, but mainstream AAA titles like Ghost Recon: Breakpoint will run at medium settings with 25-40 fps in 1080p (personal experience). I suggest swapping it for a Radeon graphics card since they offer literally the same level of performance as Nvidia but much cheaper. I bought Radeon Rx550 and sold the old 1050ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly no idea about whether you should upgrade your CPU. I have almost the same CPU and I have never encountered any cases where it caused bottlenecking due to its poor perfomance. I would say your CPU is fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43975" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12571" RevisionGUID="af6e433d-f2dc-4c25-90ef-7ad83ec36d81" CreationDate="2019-12-17T23:26:24.240" UserId="14128" Text="Consider Xiaomi phones. I have Redmi Note 7 which costs 12k rubles (around 200$) but is pretty much as powerful as the incredibly overpriced Pixel 4. It also looks good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a low price because Xiaomi earns money not from your purchase, but by gathering data about you through MIUI, their android reskin that comes preinstalled on all Xiaomi phones. Since you are going to flash a different ROM anyway, privacy is of no concern. You will, however, **have to use MIUI for a few days**, while you wait to be able to unlock the bootloader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The preinstalled MIUI version will probably be global, with a lot of bloat- and spyware from Xiaomi, but half of it can surprisingly be deleted, while you can use Xiaomi Flash Tool to remove the rest, without root (it allows to remove any app from the phone **permanently**. Even Google Play Services.). There is also the EU version of MIUI, developed entirely by the xiaomi community. It lists &quot;no Chinese bloatware&quot; as one of the main differences from the Global version, among other interesting features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, there is no version of MIUI EU without google apps preinstalled. Shame. It's a damn fine ROM." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12572" RevisionGUID="bf62bede-7c24-4165-ac2e-ca6a30713280" CreationDate="2019-12-17T23:35:02.413" UserId="14128" Text="I would guess that no, there are no such splitters. It would be too much trouble for manufacturers. You can, however, program such a splitter yourself using Arduino." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12574" RevisionGUID="fe900f19-4df1-458b-ab00-0aff7f79e765" CreationDate="2019-12-18T07:40:05.240" UserId="6047" Text="Absolute lowest price [I could bring one down for is 185.73][1]. You'll notice that regardless of your low port requirement this switch has 24 ports. This just happened to be cheaper than switches with lower port quantities. I suspect that 10-Gigabit switches are only really used in enterprise level applications as you are unlikely to actually pass the Gigabit mark without the proper servers, cables, or otherwise environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIADP08GG7286&amp;Description=switch&amp;cm_re=switch-_-0XP-003P-002E7-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43984" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12575" RevisionGUID="f98dd38d-5e44-452d-a1e0-69e587c3d5de" CreationDate="2019-12-18T09:51:13.390" UserId="14107" Text="Processor:&#xD;&#xA;AMD Ryzen™ Threadripper 3970X boxed&#xD;&#xA;Sockel sTRX4, 32x 3.7 GHz, 32 Kerne&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Grafic Card:What is the best for AI?&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GEFORCE RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;- Nvidia GEFORCE RTX 2080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I need Motherboard how works with this ones good&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How many RAM and which Brand&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Which Storage Brand and how many at least&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Which fan?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Which box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43985" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12575" RevisionGUID="f98dd38d-5e44-452d-a1e0-69e587c3d5de" CreationDate="2019-12-18T09:51:13.390" UserId="14107" Text="Recommendation for Machine Learning Computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43986" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12575" RevisionGUID="f98dd38d-5e44-452d-a1e0-69e587c3d5de" CreationDate="2019-12-18T09:51:13.390" UserId="14107" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43987" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12575" RevisionGUID="9b7db9b1-9605-49ff-9e65-c227b6c6832c" CreationDate="2019-12-18T16:53:03.600" UserId="10648" Comment="Improved formatting, grammar, spelling. Added additional language to expand on the question without trying to change the intent." Text="I want to build a computer for machine learning using this processor:  &#xD;&#xA;[AMD Ryzen™ Threadripper 3970X](https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-threadripper-3970x#product-specs)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these graphics cards is the best for AI?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also need recommendations for the following components:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- A motherboard that works well with this processor and graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;- RAM  &#xD;&#xA;Which brands are good?  &#xD;&#xA;How much memory will I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Storage Device(s)  &#xD;&#xA;Which brands are good?  &#xD;&#xA;How much space will I need?&#xD;&#xA;- Cooling&#xD;&#xA;- PC Tower/Case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43988" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12575" RevisionGUID="9b7db9b1-9605-49ff-9e65-c227b6c6832c" CreationDate="2019-12-18T16:53:03.600" Comment="Proposed by 10648 approved by 14107 edit id of 998" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43994" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12577" RevisionGUID="961b577d-c4e3-47ab-9044-537f2d6cf1e6" CreationDate="2019-12-18T23:07:46.437" UserId="14132" Text="I need a recommendations for a cheap display monitor for use in CCTV door access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To save electricity the monitor will remain powered off at all times, until somebody needs to answer the front door and manually switches on the display monitor. It is crucial, therefore, that the chosen monitor is able to display video extremely quickly from the moment it is powered on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Approximate screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Type / Format: HD LED wide screen&#xD;&#xA; - Market: Either new or used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video input will be from an IP CCTV camera via its local BNC / phono output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, I found it impossible to construct a search term for this question on Google.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any helpful assistance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43995" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12577" RevisionGUID="961b577d-c4e3-47ab-9044-537f2d6cf1e6" CreationDate="2019-12-18T23:07:46.437" UserId="14132" Text="Display monitor with fast Boot-up / Picture-on time" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43996" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12577" RevisionGUID="961b577d-c4e3-47ab-9044-537f2d6cf1e6" CreationDate="2019-12-18T23:07:46.437" UserId="14132" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43997" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12522" RevisionGUID="b2a8119f-c502-4c1f-b241-a401e5b9fb52" CreationDate="2019-12-19T00:15:22.093" UserId="527" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:527,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;RockPaperLizard&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44000" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12578" RevisionGUID="6d4c8f6a-1001-447a-90d3-aa12a9206136" CreationDate="2019-12-19T09:44:52.637" UserId="1873" Text="There are ready made available, for example [this Waveshare one][1].&#xA;&#xA;Scavenging laptop displays requires some effort since they don't use standard connectors and you need to track down adapters which work with this specific model.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.waveshare.com/15.6inch-fhd-monitor.htm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12579" RevisionGUID="a388d33e-e98e-4ffb-bc82-e4ce3af7bbaa" CreationDate="2019-12-19T09:53:06.930" UserId="1873" Text="Take a look at the [Udoo Bolt](https://www.udoo.org/udoo-bolt/) or their other products. Basically that's an x86 SBC with proper RAM slots." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44002" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12579" RevisionGUID="7afdc091-b15f-4418-a1db-7de83fd92943" CreationDate="2019-12-19T10:06:05.540" UserId="1873" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="Take a look at the [Udoo Bolt](https://www.udoo.org/udoo-bolt/) or their other products. Basically that's an x86 SBC with proper RAM slots.&#xA;&#xA;Edit:&#xA;I forgot about dual Ethernet requirement. You could possibly go for a USB 3.0 adapter if it's acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44009" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10774" RevisionGUID="c88703f6-a41a-4ad9-9fdf-212efd6247a2" CreationDate="2019-12-19T21:31:44.887" UserId="10960" Comment="added 223 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a cheaper alternative for the `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some phones like my Samsung S8, which happens to be a [Samsung Dex compatible device][1] can be turned into a full android desktop computer using a `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A `USB-C Hub/multiport adapter` is a device that connects to a computer or phone via USB-C, and allows me to connect a USB-B device (like a wireless mouse and keyboard combo) and a HDMI monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I use a regular `USB-C Hub/multiport adapter` with the Samsung S8, the phone connects to the monitor, keyboard and mouse, providing a similar experience to the expensive `Samsung Dex Station` or `Samsung Dex Pad`, with one big exception: The phone does not charge, the battery drains slowly. I've heard some usb-c hubs do charge the device they connect to, but I dont know which ones. So, the question...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the name of the 'feature' that the `USB-C Hub` must have so I can recognize if it will transfer power to the master device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_DeX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: For what it's worth, and answering my own question: What I needed was a `PD` / `Power Delivery` `USB-C Hub' with HDMI.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;It's unbelievable that this question is off-topic on this site. This community is broken. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44010" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="c6f3758e-aee5-48c8-9eab-167bdde94d7a" CreationDate="2019-12-20T02:02:00.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44013" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="9dcdb7ff-7005-4fb3-8216-3b8bab6b0d4d" CreationDate="2019-12-20T05:02:15.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44014" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12582" RevisionGUID="3c646d9e-0259-442a-afe6-e052adbc30ce" CreationDate="2019-12-20T14:38:41.830" UserId="14135" Text="My laptop only has WiFi connection, but I've been successfully using [AX88179][1] (USB3.0 to 10/100/1000M **Gigabit** Ethernet Controller) for a few years now. Yet as soon as my Internet connection became higher than 100 Mbps, then it seems I hit Asix' limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've trying asking [here][2] and was told it's probably because of the adapter (I've tried using both Cat5, Cat5e and Cat6 cables - the latter of which gave me 1 Gbps in another house).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried contacting Asix but they haven't even bothered to reply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I therefore consider buying a new adapter, but the tricky part is my laptop only has 2 USB ports. One is USB 3.0 and the other is USB 2.0. If I understand correctly, only USB 3.0 can used to achieve 1 Gbps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, the adapter I need should also serve as a USB 3.0 hub so I'll be able to connect other devices in general and other USB 3.0 devices particularly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know of any such device, which company is reputable enough to ensure I get 1 Gbps plus has technical support that actually replies?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![1 Gbps Ethernet speed][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't want and so far have is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![100 Mbps Ethernet speed][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently using:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![USB to Ethernet with hub adapter][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNeQm.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://superuser.com/questions/1510207/why-doesnt-my-usb-ethernet-card-asix-give-me-1-gbps&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/srxVb.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/sq1Gb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44015" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12582" RevisionGUID="3c646d9e-0259-442a-afe6-e052adbc30ce" CreationDate="2019-12-20T14:38:41.830" UserId="14135" Text="USB LAN/RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter which also serves as a USB 3.0 Hub" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44016" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12582" RevisionGUID="3c646d9e-0259-442a-afe6-e052adbc30ce" CreationDate="2019-12-20T14:38:41.830" UserId="14135" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44018" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="346ab0e7-acc6-4e71-8988-919003f8d593" CreationDate="2019-12-20T16:02:35.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44019" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12577" RevisionGUID="0a711a4e-f132-4c4c-b7a0-edbfb37bc031" CreationDate="2019-12-20T18:10:17.200" UserId="14132" Comment="Grammar" Text="I need recommendations for a cheap display monitor for use in CCTV door access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To save electricity the monitor will remain powered off at all times, until somebody needs to answer the front door and manually switches on the display monitor. It is crucial, therefore, that the chosen monitor is able to display video extremely quickly from the moment it is powered on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Approximate screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Type / Format: HD LED wide screen&#xD;&#xA; - Market: Either new or used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video input will be from an IP CCTV camera via its local BNC / phono output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, I found it impossible to construct a search query for this question on Google.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any helpful assistance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12577" RevisionGUID="33fc0abc-477b-4ac0-a0f8-06a68d2499ab" CreationDate="2019-12-20T19:57:21.773" UserId="14132" Comment="Update" Text="I need recommendations for a cheap display monitor for use in CCTV door access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To save electricity the monitor will remain powered off at all times, until somebody needs to answer the front door and manually switches on the display monitor. It is crucial, therefore, that the chosen monitor is able to display video extremely quickly from the moment it is powered on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Approximate screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA; - Type / Format: HD LED wide screen&#xD;&#xA; - Market: Either new or used.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Video input will be from an IP CCTV camera via its local BNC / phono output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, I found it impossible to construct a search query for this question on Google.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any helpful assistance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**20/12/2019 - Update**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've discovered the Samsung SMT-1935 is made for the CCTV market, used monitors are available cheaply, but I'm having difficulty persuading sellers to check the power-on time with a BNC feed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44024" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="111dc9c9-f7d7-4504-8f52-cb912fd8a8a7" CreationDate="2019-12-20T20:01:50.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44027" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="ac20fe45-51a8-488a-a014-46e4e661a877" CreationDate="2019-12-20T21:03:30.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44028" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="5f1b6d1d-157f-460a-92b5-f30267547dc2" CreationDate="2019-12-20T22:02:20.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="757e3339-d705-4151-8d7d-c2ac5aadfa05" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:28:53.873" UserId="14137" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/immediately issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA; - CPU: Intel i7- 8ª generation&#xA;GPU: GTX 1050ti&#xA;RAM: 16 gb&#xA;SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA; &#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="757e3339-d705-4151-8d7d-c2ac5aadfa05" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:28:53.873" UserId="14137" Text="Which laptops are appropriate to set a dual boot system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="757e3339-d705-4151-8d7d-c2ac5aadfa05" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:28:53.873" UserId="14137" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44032" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="cc97a70a-7307-4d9b-b5b5-39252b1e42f8" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:34:27.467" UserId="14137" Comment="added 1 character in body; added 68 characters in body; deleted 33 characters in body; edited body; added 2 characters in body; deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/immediately issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; &#xA;&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - CPU: Intel i7- 8ª generation &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - GPU: GTX 1050ti &#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - RAM: 16 gb SSD: M.2 /&#xA; &#xA; &#xA; - NVMe OS: Windows 10&#xA;&gt;&#xA; &#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44033" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="9fd4163f-27dd-4576-a924-f410d2fc9ad7" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:48:34.520" UserId="14137" Comment="deleted 13 characters in body; deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/suddenly issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8ª generation&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16 gb&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44037" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="edce1767-a0c3-4a9b-abe2-24e8af73f07d" CreationDate="2019-12-21T02:02:15.500" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44038" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="d578429e-0112-4f81-a19f-011ab931dc30" CreationDate="2019-12-21T03:25:54.053" UserId="14137" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/suddenly issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16 gb&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44039" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12585" RevisionGUID="a99f617b-f84b-4656-b232-1014ceb91d08" CreationDate="2019-12-21T05:05:57.943" UserId="10197" Text="In the [official process specifications](https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-5-3600#product-specs) of a processor such as AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600. There is an item titled **System Memory Specification** and it equals to 3200MHz. I know that is the frequency of system path and increasing that frequency means faster memory and system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What **I don't know** about this specification, does it minimum requirement or maximum? In other words, suppose that there is RAM of just 3000MHz does it work with this system or not? on the other hand, suppose there is RAM of 4000 MHz too?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I don't want to over purchasing for something that may not work with the system or even the system will not get benefits from it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44040" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12585" RevisionGUID="a99f617b-f84b-4656-b232-1014ceb91d08" CreationDate="2019-12-21T05:05:57.943" UserId="10197" Text="The meanning system memory specification for Ryzen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44041" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12585" RevisionGUID="a99f617b-f84b-4656-b232-1014ceb91d08" CreationDate="2019-12-21T05:05:57.943" UserId="10197" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44046" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="098dff3e-041e-40fe-9ee1-638edfb6ba8e" CreationDate="2019-12-21T14:02:59.397" UserId="14137" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44047" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="ea2695e9-a136-498a-877a-4038049f0282" CreationDate="2019-12-21T21:00:55.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44048" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="21a81ef9-65d9-4262-97a1-de2500eb15a4" CreationDate="2019-12-21T22:10:18.980" UserId="14137" Comment="edited title" Text="Which laptops are appropriate to set a dual boot system(Windows and Linux)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44049" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="5676e8c5-dc3f-429b-8e68-a3317236af83" CreationDate="2019-12-21T22:27:06.527" UserId="14137" Comment="added 259 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/suddenly issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16 gb&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: just tell me what is the best laptop (hardware) model,as it is a hardware recommendation topic. Some brands doesn't allow the owner to install Linux OS on its laptops,and if someone do it they alerts about possible damages that brick the HARDWARE.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="3724a79e-84e1-49a5-a43c-3e0071295130" CreationDate="2019-12-22T01:49:32.177" UserId="14137" Comment="deleted 1 character in body; added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/suddenly issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16 gb&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: just tell me what are the best laptops (hardwares) models,as it is a hardware recommendation topic. Some brands doesn't allow the owner to install Linux OS on its laptops,and if someone do it they alert about possible damages that brick the HARDWARE.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44056" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="3a8836f0-65d4-4a7e-bec3-1458976abb22" CreationDate="2019-12-22T05:53:26.383" UserId="13407" Text="I am using an Yamaha PSR-E423 Keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the [User Manual][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the manual, I understand that we can power the keyboard through the AC Adapter or through 6 number of 1.5V batteries. (9V in total)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suppose, If I connect both the AC Adapter and provide the battery power to the keyboard, which power will the keyoard use for its functions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And in the event of power interruptions, will the keyboard continue if its battery powered?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://file:///C:/Users/hp/Downloads/_home_httpd_data_media-data_f_psre423_en_om_c0-.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44057" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="3a8836f0-65d4-4a7e-bec3-1458976abb22" CreationDate="2019-12-22T05:53:26.383" UserId="13407" Text="Which Power is preferred in Yamaha PSR-E423 (AC Adapter or Battery)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44058" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="3a8836f0-65d4-4a7e-bec3-1458976abb22" CreationDate="2019-12-22T05:53:26.383" UserId="13407" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12589" RevisionGUID="f0f86bfa-d4f9-403d-a33c-ecdff7063b65" CreationDate="2019-12-22T14:27:54.620" UserId="14140" Text="My PC is kinda old by now, but I'm trying to save money. This puts me in a unique situation that I'm not sure how to tackle. My current setup is this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU**: AMD FX-8350&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**GPU**: GeForce GTX 750Ti &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory**: 16 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now this GPU is a little old I wanted to upgrade it. I bought a second hand GeForce 1060 6 GB, but it doesn't work. I've ran several benchmarks and tests and got advice online - some people think the card is dead and the seller lied to me, others think this old CPU is creating a bottleneck. I don't know. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best thing is to probably buy a new PC, but I don't have a lot of money right now I need to be cautious. My thinking is - ok, I can buy a newer GPU - if it works well, then fineת I only spent that money. If it doesn't, then that means I need to replace my CPU and motherboard, but I didn't waste any money because I'll still use the GPU I bought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which brings me to my question - **what's the best GPU I can buy right now that'll work with my old CPU, but if I end up replacing that CPU will still be good enough for next couple of years?**. Note I don't really care if it's an Nvidia or AMD card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44060" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12589" RevisionGUID="f0f86bfa-d4f9-403d-a33c-ecdff7063b65" CreationDate="2019-12-22T14:27:54.620" UserId="14140" Text="What GPU should I buy that'll work for my current setup and be useful if I upgrade my CPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44061" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12589" RevisionGUID="f0f86bfa-d4f9-403d-a33c-ecdff7063b65" CreationDate="2019-12-22T14:27:54.620" UserId="14140" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44062" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="b20b7106-f99a-4873-baec-292db320d823" CreationDate="2019-12-22T16:03:05.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12591" RevisionGUID="657ee9e4-b251-4327-bd1c-c90c0cdb3795" CreationDate="2019-12-23T02:04:54.987" UserId="13812" Text="I got excited to see the Casio SA-76, which almost fit the description, but it doesn't have a 1/4 inch jack output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not care about timbre or sound quality, because I want to run the keyboard through a vocoder while having access to the voices on my other &quot;real&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By smallest, I mean fewer than 49 keys. Smaller means lighter, and it's more aesthetic to have a tiny keyboard sitting on top of my other keyboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44067" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12591" RevisionGUID="657ee9e4-b251-4327-bd1c-c90c0cdb3795" CreationDate="2019-12-23T02:04:54.987" UserId="13812" Text="What's the smallest + cheapest keyboard that has a 1/4 inch jack output and runs on AAs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44068" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12591" RevisionGUID="657ee9e4-b251-4327-bd1c-c90c0cdb3795" CreationDate="2019-12-23T02:04:54.987" UserId="13812" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12593" RevisionGUID="94608ea1-0359-4106-b698-618d3d5e52e5" CreationDate="2019-12-23T11:06:54.057" UserId="6175" Text="I decided that the device I'm looking for does not exist.&#xD;&#xA;I created it by combining a DAB+ radio with a Bluetooth transmitter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DAB+ radio: https://www.vr-radio.de/DAB-Digitalradio-im-Holzgehaeuse-FM-2-Weckze-ZX-1771-919.shtml&#xD;&#xA;Bluetooth transmitter: https://www.ugreen.com.cn/products/bluetooth-4-2-audio-transmitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44074" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12591" RevisionGUID="7f84cf8b-bb8c-4f2b-bc12-196acac2f024" CreationDate="2019-12-23T12:42:23.337" UserId="13812" Comment="added 101 characters in body" Text="I got excited to see the Casio SA-76, which almost fit the description, but it doesn't have a 1/4 inch jack output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not care about timbre or sound quality, because I want to run the keyboard through a vocoder while having access to the voices on my other &quot;real&quot; keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By smallest, I mean fewer than 49 keys. Smaller means lighter, and it's more aesthetic to have a tiny keyboard sitting on top of my other keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Just to clarify, I don't mean a MIDI controller, but a keyboard that outputs its own tones." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44075" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7300" RevisionGUID="497b9700-e89a-4571-909a-64f5831cfcab" CreationDate="2019-12-23T17:02:15.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44076" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="256766ea-e475-4261-85ca-bb2aad885c27" CreationDate="2019-12-23T18:00:55.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44080" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="dc568828-174b-4b90-b202-d79ab130c4d6" CreationDate="2019-12-23T21:01:45.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44082" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="3330bb19-83fb-4d55-9140-5f552062510d" CreationDate="2019-12-24T03:03:15.377" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12595" RevisionGUID="443e89e5-7d21-46fe-a9ae-8b62f6ef2f91" CreationDate="2019-12-24T09:16:47.207" UserId="14147" Text="MSI GL63 or if you're looking for a thinner laptop, then MSI GS65. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a triple booted lenovo B460e (Win7 + Ubuntu + CentOS). I'm having a dual booted HP elitebook 840-G3 Core-i5 laptop (Win10 + Ubuntu). So I hope all the latest models of Lenovo Legion series and HP Omen series laptops support dual/triple/quad boot without any issues.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12595" RevisionGUID="1e342859-82d4-4112-96ab-abe2481b926a" CreationDate="2019-12-24T09:39:11.283" UserId="14147" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="MSI GL63 or if you're looking for a thinner laptop, then MSI GS65 Stealth. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I had a triple booted lenovo B460e (Win7 + Ubuntu + CentOS). I'm having a dual booted HP elitebook 840-G3 Core-i5 laptop (Win10 + Ubuntu). So I hope all the latest models of Lenovo Legion series and HP Omen series laptops support dual/triple/quad boot without any issues.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44090" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="4247d8c1-aca4-455b-8138-1a51681716f9" CreationDate="2019-12-24T15:58:26.090" UserId="1937" Text="There is Ryzen Tello, which can be controlled by gamepad + smartphone, but on their FAQ page they said that they support only Gamestir controllers and video quality not very good (though I've seen videos where people was able to control it with some latency using other controllers). But what if we already have a gamepad compatable with Android (MADCATZ CTRL Z for instance)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44091" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="4247d8c1-aca4-455b-8138-1a51681716f9" CreationDate="2019-12-24T15:58:26.090" UserId="1937" Text="Are there drones with high-quality video compatable with any gamepad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44092" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="4247d8c1-aca4-455b-8138-1a51681716f9" CreationDate="2019-12-24T15:58:26.090" UserId="1937" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44096" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12599" RevisionGUID="5874027e-8e12-4384-9e4e-db434363ff24" CreationDate="2019-12-24T18:19:15.763" UserId="13812" Text="I occurs to me that my exact specification is satisfied by taking the Casio keyboard mentioned, which only has a headphone output, and use a 3.5mm male to 1/4 inch female adapter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44097" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="5f1ed5fc-f8be-4acc-a4b0-454f94f4cd9a" CreationDate="2019-12-24T22:34:41.150" UserId="1937" Comment="edited title" Text="Are there drones with able to record high-quality video, compatable with any gamepad?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44098" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="7693581c-e699-41ad-9836-3ec17e848731" CreationDate="2019-12-25T02:02:15.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44100" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="458470e1-e547-4c3c-acdd-02d13d1e4ed2" CreationDate="2019-12-25T09:01:05.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44101" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="8ac45acd-9429-43fa-b76a-b25225ff37a1" CreationDate="2019-12-25T10:01:55.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44102" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="1f8a6c78-5905-48aa-89a2-2a1979da7d39" CreationDate="2019-12-25T10:21:53.263" UserId="14152" Text="I see Nvidia RTX 2060 comes with 8pin or 6+8pin power ports. But my power suppy  Chieftec CTG-750C has only 2x6+2 pin. So I'm not sure which RTX 2060 to buy and how to connect it. Do I need some adapters? Will it work well in games with this power supply?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44103" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="1f8a6c78-5905-48aa-89a2-2a1979da7d39" CreationDate="2019-12-25T10:21:53.263" UserId="14152" Text="Connecting 2x6+2 pin Chieftec CTG-750C to 8pin/6+8pin RTX 2060?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44104" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="1f8a6c78-5905-48aa-89a2-2a1979da7d39" CreationDate="2019-12-25T10:21:53.263" UserId="14152" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44105" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="a27c2916-5ac8-4828-a043-6e94942c55e9" CreationDate="2019-12-25T10:28:10.183" UserId="14152" Comment="edited title" Text="Connecting 8pin/6+8pin RTX 2060 to 2x6+2 pin Chieftec CTG-750C?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44106" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="84c1110f-386b-4f83-92e6-899200ed8117" CreationDate="2019-12-25T11:00:50.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="6edbb673-185b-4e4b-bbc8-e3ba7df19d74" CreationDate="2019-12-25T13:56:15.437" UserId="1808" Text="I am unable to find one.&#xD;&#xA;And bellow 2tb this doesn t gives avdantages over ssd. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44108" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="6edbb673-185b-4e4b-bbc8-e3ba7df19d74" CreationDate="2019-12-25T13:56:15.437" UserId="1808" Text="Is there still a manufacturer building 10000rpm hard drives or higher?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44109" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="6edbb673-185b-4e4b-bbc8-e3ba7df19d74" CreationDate="2019-12-25T13:56:15.437" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12603" RevisionGUID="888373f2-6d60-4374-ba18-34a10617469a" CreationDate="2019-12-25T17:16:21.157" UserId="1808" Text="In both cases/connectors, I don t care whether this is an hard drive or a ssd.  &#xD;&#xA;But the largest hard drive I saw for that case is 5Tb large whereas the largest ssd is 7.68tb large.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a single drive. Not as a raid array." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44111" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12603" RevisionGUID="888373f2-6d60-4374-ba18-34a10617469a" CreationDate="2019-12-25T17:16:21.157" UserId="1808" Text="Single storage over 10Tb for 2.5inch sata or M.2 nvme" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44112" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12603" RevisionGUID="888373f2-6d60-4374-ba18-34a10617469a" CreationDate="2019-12-25T17:16:21.157" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="5f8b6177-51d2-4cd4-8cbf-68c5a70ba9d9" CreationDate="2019-12-26T00:09:01.073" UserId="10739" Comment="Better title" Text="There is Ryzen Tello, which can be controlled by gamepad + smartphone, but on their FAQ page they said that they support only Gamestir controllers and video quality not very good (though I've seen videos where people was able to control it with some latency using other controllers).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what if we already have a gamepad compatable with Android (MADCATZ CTRL Z for instance)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44114" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="5f8b6177-51d2-4cd4-8cbf-68c5a70ba9d9" CreationDate="2019-12-26T00:09:01.073" UserId="10739" Comment="Better title" Text="Are there gamepad compatible drones which are able to record high-quality video?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44115" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="5f8b6177-51d2-4cd4-8cbf-68c5a70ba9d9" CreationDate="2019-12-26T00:09:01.073" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 1937 edit id of 1002" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44118" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12585" RevisionGUID="1fa02843-1f54-44dc-8f8e-3a79f530c439" CreationDate="2019-12-26T03:55:41.417" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44122" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12554" RevisionGUID="15201e3b-aad2-453b-8258-6d59a3eec273" CreationDate="2019-12-26T04:02:58.347" UserId="6047" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:6047,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Bennett Yeo&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44129" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="8c360082-fb9c-44a8-a0f8-140e807976bd" CreationDate="2019-12-26T15:43:43.903" UserId="13407" Comment="89" />
  <row Id="44130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="6e64c08b-7a9c-4a37-b76c-8d115314bcbd" CreationDate="2019-12-26T18:55:48.383" UserId="1937" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="There is Ryzen Tello, which can be controlled by gamepad + smartphone, but on their FAQ page they said that they support only Gamestir controllers and video quality not very good (though I've seen videos where people was able to control it with some latency using other controllers).  &#xD;&#xA;Can't say about preferable price range, but affordability is appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what if we already have a gamepad compatable with Android (MADCATZ CTRL Z for instance)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="f7ac5cf1-91c1-44f0-83cc-d5b1e5cb3f4f" CreationDate="2019-12-26T19:01:23.440" UserId="1937" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="There is Ryzen Tello, which can be controlled by **gamepad + smartphone**, but on their FAQ page they said that they support only Gamestir controllers and video quality is not very good (though I've seen videos where people was able to control it with some latency using other controllers).  &#xD;&#xA;Can't say about preferable price range, but **affordability is appreciated.**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;And quality of video: my smartphone has more pixels than one good model of photocamera, though camera of course has better quality of images.&#xD;&#xA;But I would say starting from **720p** would be ok, if video-quality is not smartphone-like.&#xD;&#xA;Or may be I could **attach lighweight camera** the cameraless drone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For people who already have a gamepad compatable with Android (MADCATZ CTRL Z for instance)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44132" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="f7ac5cf1-91c1-44f0-83cc-d5b1e5cb3f4f" CreationDate="2019-12-26T19:01:23.440" UserId="1937" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="Are there gamepad compatible drones which are able to record high-quality video or carry weight of camera?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12597" RevisionGUID="b5d2cb88-db18-4864-ae3e-f46bf89cbe89" CreationDate="2019-12-26T19:07:18.783" UserId="1937" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="There is Ryzen Tello, which can be controlled by **gamepad + smartphone**, but on their FAQ page they said that they support only Gamestir controllers and video quality is not very good (though I've seen videos where people was able to control it with some latency using other controllers).  &#xD;&#xA;Can't say about preferable price range, but **affordability is appreciated.**&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;And quality of video: my smartphone has more pixels than one good model of photocamera, though camera of course has better quality of images.&#xD;&#xA;But I would say starting from **720p** would be ok, if video-quality is not smartphone-like.&#xD;&#xA;Or may be I could **attach lighweight camera** to the cameraless drone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For people who already have a gamepad compatable with Android (MADCATZ CTRL Z for instance)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44138" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="293cb5e6-e66b-4333-9940-2d22608b6847" CreationDate="2019-12-27T01:58:34.840" UserId="14137" Comment="added 533 characters in body; added 31 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/suddenly issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti ( at least 4gb)&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16 gb DDR4 2666Mhz&#xA; &#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - M.2 with or without SATA 3 space: at least 2tb available to upgrade&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - Price limit: $2200&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - Laptops with good finish is better&#xA;&#xA;Please,give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xA;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: I'm from Brazil and live here, at the moment I've found some laptops available in my country that I'm interested in,such as Dell G5 5590 and Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315( but I don't know if they'll run Linux distros smooth with a dual/triple boot system). However I can take a risk and buy imported Dell G7 7590,for example,if Dell Brasil doesn't sell products like this until March.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: just tell me what are the best laptops (hardwares) models,as it is a hardware recommendation topic. Some brands doesn't allow the owner to install Linux OS on its laptops,and if someone do it they alert about possible damages that brick the HARDWARE.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12606" RevisionGUID="fe7ffd32-62c7-451d-9c63-3a9678e170e1" CreationDate="2019-12-27T03:59:17.900" UserId="6047" Text="I have chosen systems available to ship to Brazil today and assume that you are using USD rather than Brazilian Reals. I was able to match and exceed your minimum specs easily with a budget of 2.2K USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI GF75 9SC-278 | $1,279.95 + 87.08 International Shipping][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features MSI's magnesium-aluminium alloy which is excellent both for weight and head dissipation. I own an MSI and have never heard of multi-boot issues with the manufacturer as they typically make customization of hardware and software relatively painless. I have seen more than a few people install Linux on MSI computers before. Partitioning your hard-drive and then installing another operating system in that partition will certainly not brick your [BIOS][3]. The easiest way to configure multi boot with Linux + Windows will be the guide I have linked in the comment under your question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Matched and exceeded specs&#xD;&#xA;-------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - i7-**9**750**H**&#xD;&#xA; - NVIDIA GTX 1650&#xD;&#xA; - **16GB** DDR4-**2333**&#xD;&#xA; - 512 GB **M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD** + 1TB HDD&#xD;&#xA; - Ships **Windows 10** pre-installed&#xD;&#xA; - **Brushed Magnesium-Aluminium Alloy finish**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MSI laptops are usually configured for instant access to SSD, HDD, WiFi Card Module, and battery so I see no issues for storage upgrades if you need it. If you upgrade storage I would endorse buying an M.2 to SATA adapter and switching the existing SSD to secondary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for any potential lack of knowledge or being out of the loop with GPUs, I can assure you that the GTX 1650 benchmarks a modest 8% higher in terms of effective speed according to [benchmarks][4], meeting and exceeding your graphical requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally **if you would like a full comprehensive lists of laptops** meeting your requirements and available for shipping to Brazil or would like to push the price further down, [**here is a link to my search query.**][5]. Asus, MSI, and Dell are all fine to dual boot and I don't see any reason Aorus wouldn't either though I have not heard of this company before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Regardless, normal user operations done to your hard drive (partitioning, changing bits aka installing OS's) should never have any impact on your BIOS.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/global/br-en/p/2WC-000C-00HX0?Item=9SIA7ABA8H7863&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH8Ue.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1650-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti/m790279vs3649&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.newegg.com/global/br-en/p/pl?N=101687435%20600003982%20601303722%20601312452%20601323887%20601343206%20601205664%20601206490%20601206491%20601285496%20601328394%20601333544%20600555370%20601300077%20600136700%20600337010%20600440394%20601107729%20601183480%20601331008%20601296067%20601296068%20601296069&amp;Order=PRICE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44141" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="7e7746d3-4478-4837-a0df-105a0c854a16" CreationDate="2019-12-27T14:03:15.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="41e22aed-6b7b-4fdb-8452-4bd3ce037c72" CreationDate="2019-12-27T15:16:49.767" UserId="6047" Comment="Fixed grammar, improved formatting" Text="I see that the Nvidia RTX 2060 comes with 8pin or 6+8pin power ports, but my power supply, Chieftec CTG-750C, only has 2x6+2 pin power ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Which RTX 2060 should I buy so I can connect it to my power supply?&#xD;&#xA; - Do I need some sort of adapter and will this work well under-load (games) with my power supply?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44143" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="41e22aed-6b7b-4fdb-8452-4bd3ce037c72" CreationDate="2019-12-27T15:16:49.767" UserId="6047" Comment="Fixed grammar, improved formatting" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44144" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12601" RevisionGUID="41e22aed-6b7b-4fdb-8452-4bd3ce037c72" CreationDate="2019-12-27T15:16:49.767" Comment="Proposed by 6047 approved by 14152 edit id of 1003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
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  <row Id="44152" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="9c4f8bbb-b37a-408b-a225-ab547a379809" CreationDate="2019-12-28T12:02:40.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44153" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12608" RevisionGUID="26cdf019-a1ca-466a-b10e-6c866ffed65d" CreationDate="2019-12-28T18:57:37.260" UserId="14165" Text="I have Gigabyte [GA-H61M-S][1] motherboard and it does not support USB 3.0.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;My computer case has USB and Audio module but, its not working anymore. So, I am thinking to replace it with a good quality panel.&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I have found [this][2] one product which meets my requirement. I have to connect it to USB header on motherboard. But, it says its for USB 3.0. &#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;So, my question is whether this panel will work or not with my motherboard. I know that if it works then it will give me speed of USB 2.0 only but, will it work at all or not?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-H61M-S-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Neon-Front-Panel-Connector-Adapter/dp/B073P4N21N/ref=pd_sbs_147_3/259-5822732-6957312?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B073P4N21N&amp;pd_rd_r=13b75391-9d54-4dc9-b32f-bca5e1967ae5&amp;pd_rd_w=zc4dW&amp;pd_rd_wg=op5m8&amp;pf_rd_p=fbf43daf-8fb3-47b5-9deb-ae9cce3969a9&amp;pf_rd_r=M97ZDB2PY3ACQ8ABCHP4&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M97ZDB2PY3ACQ8ABCHP4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44154" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12608" RevisionGUID="26cdf019-a1ca-466a-b10e-6c866ffed65d" CreationDate="2019-12-28T18:57:37.260" UserId="14165" Text="Can I install USB 3.0 USB bracket if my motherboard does not support USB 3.0?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44155" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12608" RevisionGUID="26cdf019-a1ca-466a-b10e-6c866ffed65d" CreationDate="2019-12-28T18:57:37.260" UserId="14165" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44159" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="569ab23f-1173-4b3f-9a63-0f8e3925b17f" CreationDate="2019-12-28T22:03:20.477" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44160" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12609" RevisionGUID="661ce3d3-16ab-4ac6-b9e1-76f2269639a1" CreationDate="2019-12-28T22:50:10.617" UserId="14132" Text="I found a better solution to the problem which is to have the monitor powered by a PIR motion sensor located outside above the front door." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44161" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12610" RevisionGUID="6e65b676-a3d0-49a8-8ac2-67abdb6c2350" CreationDate="2019-12-29T06:12:57.003" UserId="13591" Text="What is the cheapest graphics card for a desktop that can handle the new age of empires 2 definitive version and the Halo reach for PC? I'm thinking about getting new parts for my cooler master centurion 541 case and I would like to know the cheapest graphics card that can handle these games " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44162" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12610" RevisionGUID="6e65b676-a3d0-49a8-8ac2-67abdb6c2350" CreationDate="2019-12-29T06:12:57.003" UserId="13591" Text="What is the cheapest graphics card for a desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44163" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12610" RevisionGUID="6e65b676-a3d0-49a8-8ac2-67abdb6c2350" CreationDate="2019-12-29T06:12:57.003" UserId="13591" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44164" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="500deddc-cb02-47fc-8d91-cd92a3247e41" CreationDate="2019-12-29T07:39:09.837" UserId="14167" Text="I want a charger and SoC determiner ic/with example(sample) circuit or a product for a Lead Acid (PbA) battery 12V/65Ah. Which can send the SoC through a i2c port to my microcontroller (raspberry pi)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44165" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="500deddc-cb02-47fc-8d91-cd92a3247e41" CreationDate="2019-12-29T07:39:09.837" UserId="14167" Text="lead acid (PbA) charger and fuel gauge" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44166" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="500deddc-cb02-47fc-8d91-cd92a3247e41" CreationDate="2019-12-29T07:39:09.837" UserId="14167" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44167" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="41c96e8f-b0d0-4650-851b-e33cffc18575" CreationDate="2019-12-29T09:00:34.067" UserId="14106" Text="Recently, my Nexus 7 2013 (Wi-Fi only), died.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a replacement, but things changed since I last required a tablet and I am not sure on what the next pick should be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for in Nexus 7 replacement is:  &#xD;&#xA;* Similar form factor (size)  &#xD;&#xA;* Ideally an additional memory card slot  &#xD;&#xA;* Relatively latest version of Android  &#xD;&#xA;* (If possible LTE support, but if not fine as well)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked into such tablets like Samsung Galaxy Tab S5e. It has additional memory card slot and Android 9 present. It is of different size, than Nexus 7, but that could also be fine.&#xD;&#xA;I am a bit sceptical about Samsung in general, especially after the exploding phone battery fiasco.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any recommendation,  &#xD;&#xA;Merry Christmas." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44168" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="41c96e8f-b0d0-4650-851b-e33cffc18575" CreationDate="2019-12-29T09:00:34.067" UserId="14106" Text="Recommendation for Nexus 7 replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44169" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="41c96e8f-b0d0-4650-851b-e33cffc18575" CreationDate="2019-12-29T09:00:34.067" UserId="14106" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44170" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="689f81c2-4bc0-42dd-b10e-a00217ee2b47" CreationDate="2019-12-29T09:10:13.610" UserId="14106" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="Recently, my Nexus 7 2013 (Wi-Fi only), died.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a replacement, but things changed since I last required a tablet and I am not sure on what the next pick should be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for in Nexus 7 replacement is:  &#xD;&#xA;* Similar form factor (size)  &#xD;&#xA;* Ideally an additional memory card slot  &#xD;&#xA;* Relatively latest version of Android  &#xD;&#xA;* (If possible LTE support, but if not fine as well)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked into such tablets like Samsung Galaxy Tab S5e. It has additional memory card slot and Android 9 present. It is of different size, than Nexus 7, but that could also be fine.&#xD;&#xA;I am a bit sceptical about Samsung in general, especially after the exploding phone battery fiasco.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any recommendation,  &#xD;&#xA;Merry Christmas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Forgot to mention, that it needs to be affordable (Apple out of the question). Samsung Galaxy Tab S5e in my country I find a bit too expensive 439€." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44171" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="610f465f-6da5-455e-820a-221b53425c26" CreationDate="2019-12-29T13:01:50.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44175" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="f0d7727e-a94c-47dd-80da-5ec4b068a229" CreationDate="2019-12-30T01:50:30.443" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling..." Text="I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/sudden issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - GPU: GTX 1050ti ( at least 4GB)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - RAM: 16GB DDR4 2666Mhz&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&gt; - SSD: M.2 / NVMe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - M.2 with or without SATA 3 space: at least 2TB available to upgrade&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Price limit: $2200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Laptops with good finish is better&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**NOTICE**: I'm from Brazil and live here, at the moment I've found some laptops available in my country that I'm interested in, such as Dell G5 5590 and Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315 (but I don't know if they'll run Linux distros smooth with a dual/triple boot system). However I can take a risk and buy imported Dell G7 7590, for example, if Dell Brasil doesn't sell products like this until March.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**ADVICE**: Just tell me what are the best laptops (hardwares) models, as it is a hardware recommendation topic. Some brands doesn't allow the owner to install Linux OS on its laptops and if someone do it they alert about possible damages that brick the HARDWARE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44176" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="f0d7727e-a94c-47dd-80da-5ec4b068a229" CreationDate="2019-12-30T01:50:30.443" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling..." Text="Which laptops are appropriate to set a dual boot system (Windows and Linux)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44177" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12584" RevisionGUID="f0d7727e-a94c-47dd-80da-5ec4b068a229" CreationDate="2019-12-30T01:50:30.443" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 6047, 57 edit id of 1004" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="ff36eeca-33a2-4d01-89b5-329b4caa09ed" CreationDate="2019-12-30T05:06:04.360" UserId="14170" Text="This may or may not be a duplicate question, but please read on before deciding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I have tried the foscam brand, but found that they have the you figure it out approach to setup. I have never set up a tabletop indoor security camera before and found foscam to be a pain. There was something about using some IP, but was never sure if it was the IP of my router. If it was the IP of the camera, then tough because I had no clue what it was or where it was.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically, I am looking for an indoor tabletop camera that I can control from my iPhone, even if I am 3 to 10 hours away from my home.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found that foscam worked great if I was home, once I left home, I could not connect to the camera via the foscam app.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for something with excellent documentation on how to setup, preferably does not require me to use third-party cloud storage and preferably does not require me to go to NO IP or some other website to complete setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something that is as easy as 1, 2, 3 and now I am off to Paris and can still open an app on my iPhone and view what my camera sees. Or something close to it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44188" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="ff36eeca-33a2-4d01-89b5-329b4caa09ed" CreationDate="2019-12-30T05:06:04.360" UserId="14170" Text="Indoor tabletop security camera that does not require outside cloud storage and easiest to setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44189" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="ff36eeca-33a2-4d01-89b5-329b4caa09ed" CreationDate="2019-12-30T05:06:04.360" UserId="14170" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="4118f621-b066-4a11-bcab-6f73ed8e211c" CreationDate="2019-12-30T08:56:05.300" UserId="10739" Comment="Spelling..." Text="I am unable to find one.&#xD;&#xA;And below 2TB this doesn't gives advantages over SSD. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44191" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="4118f621-b066-4a11-bcab-6f73ed8e211c" CreationDate="2019-12-30T08:56:05.300" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by -1 edit id of 1008" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="3d68e568-674c-4001-94fd-247c7a2d8d76" CreationDate="2019-12-30T08:56:05.300" UserId="1808" Comment="Spelling..." Text="I am unable to find one.  &#xD;&#xA;And below 2TB this doesn t gives advantages over ssd. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="23f6d67e-a13a-4b9e-897b-41da4c1d6563" CreationDate="2019-12-30T12:57:53.707" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="I want to make an AP from a Linux PC with an USB Wi-Fi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My attempts until now weren't really successful; either the driver missed the AP capability feature, or the signal strength was negligible even from the next room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be really glad to reduce the costly buy-try-throw cycle, anybody has a good experience with such a thing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it is impossible (for example the power is not enough on the USB bus), PCI card would be also okay (I've tried one with an Atheros chipset, but the signal strength was with it also negligible).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it needs a little bit of SW/HW hacking, it is not a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44194" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="23f6d67e-a13a-4b9e-897b-41da4c1d6563" CreationDate="2019-12-30T12:57:53.707" UserId="10739" Comment="Fixed the text" Text="USB Wi-Fi stick or PCI Wi-Fi card with AP capability on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44195" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="307" RevisionGUID="23f6d67e-a13a-4b9e-897b-41da4c1d6563" CreationDate="2019-12-30T12:57:53.707" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 24 edit id of 1009" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44196" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="53032eb2-34d3-4dd0-9964-0e9736feaaf5" CreationDate="2019-12-30T13:33:47.680" UserId="10739" Comment="Capital letters" Text="I want a charger and SoC determiner ic/with example (sample) circuit or a product for a Lead acid (PbA) battery 12V/65Ah. Which can send the SoC through a I2C port to my microcontroller (Raspberry Pi)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44197" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="53032eb2-34d3-4dd0-9964-0e9736feaaf5" CreationDate="2019-12-30T13:33:47.680" UserId="10739" Comment="Capital letters" Text="Lead acid (PbA) charger and fuel gauge" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44198" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12611" RevisionGUID="53032eb2-34d3-4dd0-9964-0e9736feaaf5" CreationDate="2019-12-30T13:33:47.680" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 14167 edit id of 1006" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44199" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="2ce9a901-9ee5-41fe-8050-e00e0acf2ac4" CreationDate="2019-12-30T15:59:21.593" UserId="60" Comment="89" />
  <row Id="44200" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12588" RevisionGUID="87e22b37-beea-4f8d-aea2-419cd740e678" CreationDate="2019-12-30T15:59:48.217" UserId="60" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:60,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Cfinley&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44202" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="7cb59ece-9088-4f61-9ed6-3eee81d57492" CreationDate="2019-12-30T16:04:38.693" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="I want a phone, and I don't need 3G/4G/5G/Whatever other Gs there are, just WiFi. I have been considering the [LG Optimus Exceed 2](http://www.lg.com/us/cell-phones/lg-VS450PP-optimus-exceed-2).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Max Price: $40 including shipping&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - Screen size must be in between **4&quot;** and **5.5&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - Resolution must be **higher or equal** to **800 x 400**&#xD;&#xA; - Must be touchscreen&#xD;&#xA; - Must have **802.11g WiFi** or **better**.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have at least **4GB** of **internal storage** and have at least **1.25GB** available&#xD;&#xA; - Must have either **Android** or **Windows**&#xD;&#xA; - MicroSD slot **must support up to 32GB!**&#xD;&#xA; - Must support **class 10** SD cards&#xD;&#xA; - Must have a **speaker and microphone**&#xD;&#xA; - Chassis should be less than **0.5&quot;** thick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care if...&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - it's prepaid&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have 2G/3G/4G&#xD;&#xA; - it doesn't have a rear camera&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strong Preferences&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA; - being able to install apps on the MicroSD card&#xD;&#xA; - screen size greater than **4.4&quot;**&#xD;&#xA; - front camera resolution greater than **1920 x 1080**&#xD;&#xA; - **12 hours** of endurance with the battery **(standby)** and at least **3 hours** when **being used**&#xD;&#xA; - I would like it to boot up before **the next ice age comes and goes!!!**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44203" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="7cb59ece-9088-4f61-9ed6-3eee81d57492" CreationDate="2019-12-30T16:04:38.693" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="A Phone/Tablet with WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44204" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="7cb59ece-9088-4f61-9ed6-3eee81d57492" CreationDate="2019-12-30T16:04:38.693" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44205" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1134" RevisionGUID="7cb59ece-9088-4f61-9ed6-3eee81d57492" CreationDate="2019-12-30T16:04:38.693" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 60 edit id of 1011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12616" RevisionGUID="ea00620a-9f50-43f2-8a97-6560ce9b8bc4" CreationDate="2019-12-30T22:50:44.240" UserId="6047" Text="I'm going to give you two options and leave them up to your to decide whether the price warrants the difference in performance. These are solid option that far outstrips the DOA 1060 you recieved and should be capable of lasting you for at least the next five years if not the end of the decade (assuming nothing else in your computer breaks down). Capable of hitting far above 100 fps for top triple A title games today.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've decided not to recommend you any newer AMD GPUs to prevent you the headache as your cpu lacks a integrated gpu. Some of the newer AMD GPUs only support UEFI rather than Legacy BIOS and can prevent you from booting from your boot loader to your operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Make sure you apply the promo at checkout. If you have Amazon prime you should be able to get them to price match Newegg if you prefer Amazon's shipping services.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;## GPUs ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI RTX 2070S 8GB | $493.98 ($509.99 + $3.99 Shipping - $20 Promo)][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ZOTAC RTX 2080S 8GB | $669.99 ($709.99 - $40 Promo)][2]&#xD;&#xA;--------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Benchmarks ##&#xD;&#xA;Based on benchmarks it seems that if you are going to purchase a 2070, [it only costs a little more for a somewhat noticeable difference][3]. [The 2080 is not that much better than the 2070S][4], however; [the 2080S benches about 16% higher than the 2070S][5], and whose performance would be noticeably different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;## Upgrade Notes ##&#xD;&#xA;On a different subject, your CPU is not terrible for the setup and will probably not be too much of a bottle neck as most games are GPU bound rather than CPU bound. You might be able to achieve slightly better performance with a newer top of the line CPU, but an upgrade like this would likely be of higher benefit if you are doing heavy multi-cooperative computation or heavy video processing/encoding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2070-super-rtx-2070-super-ventus-oc/p/N82E16814137438?Item=N82E16814137438&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-2080-super-zt-t20820d-10p/p/N82E16814500473?Item=N82E16814500473&amp;nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;utm_medium=affiliates&amp;utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&amp;AFFID=2558510&amp;AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&amp;ACRID=1&amp;ranMID=44583&amp;ranEAID=2558510&amp;ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-LibJcQHgp_QQvWruy3r5dA&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2070-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4029vs4048&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2080-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4026vs4048&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2080S-Super-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4050vs4048" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44213" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="9606e5fe-1e4f-4a11-8e4a-ab9b916c2842" CreationDate="2019-12-30T23:03:00.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12618" RevisionGUID="5b078e75-f418-4ce7-92db-c1f56595ba31" CreationDate="2019-12-31T02:09:27.280" UserId="14166" Text="How do I stop pop ups on the desktop on Windows 10?&#xD;&#xA;These are not pop up ads that happen on a web site.&#xD;&#xA;They happen on my desktop as little pop ups in the lower right corner of my computer screen.&#xD;&#xA;They look like this video I recorded here:&#xD;&#xA;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLKT8F4kx6g][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do not know if they are tied somehow to another program working -- like the Windows 10 mail program -- or if they are a feature of chrome, but they are outside any other running program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are NOT pop up ads on Youtube.  These are on my desktop.  And they must have something to do with Chrome because most say so:&#xD;&#xA;[![https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sitepoint/original/3X/c/4/c417189c8471a02f211d94ebf524e605ccc21c34.png][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I know that the obvious route to figuring this out is to run a search engine and ask how to stop the chrome pop up ads.  But eventhough doing this gave me the steps required to do that, I found it did nothing.  So, I imagine that there are completely different kinds of pop up ads that go inside the chrome browser and this is somehow something different that I am experiencing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I figured it might have something to do with a program that is run when the system starts.  Here is what CCleaner has to say about what is run at start up:&#xD;&#xA;[![https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sitepoint/original/3X/c/8/c893dd90b2288917d66a31a880d66ddfb1eba95b.png][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;[![https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sitepoint/original/3X/9/b/9b25dd90e7436cf73b32bd3680ecc1ca5d5b0a18.png][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;[![https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sitepoint/original/3X/f/e/fe4066243778aea4108835fd3c6d0b50f913b4ed.png][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;[![https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sitepoint/original/3X/0/e/0ec5330c26657aeae4f1a535acb9acb4cda2bad5.png][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLKT8F4kx6g&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNzg0.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xTcC.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1SB0.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1guU.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUuDi.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44221" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12618" RevisionGUID="5b078e75-f418-4ce7-92db-c1f56595ba31" CreationDate="2019-12-31T02:09:27.280" UserId="14166" Text="How do I stop pop ups on the desktop on Windows 10?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44222" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12618" RevisionGUID="5b078e75-f418-4ce7-92db-c1f56595ba31" CreationDate="2019-12-31T02:09:27.280" UserId="14166" Text="&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44223" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="04688a85-96d4-4c1a-84a3-e59488394094" CreationDate="2019-12-31T09:01:00.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44224" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12619" RevisionGUID="ec94fc84-cf8b-4aa4-ac00-f41309170131" CreationDate="2019-12-31T12:28:41.143" UserId="14175" Text="First of all I don't know much about networking. So I will try to elaborate my question as much as I can. I have a limited broadband connection with 21 mbps of download speed. There are 4 devices connecting wirelessly to the router and 1 desktop computer connected via a LAN cable. Since I have a limited amount of data per month, I want to limit the bandwidth seperatly among those devices as follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. LAN - Desktop - Maximum 8 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 2. WIFI - Laptop - Maximum 8 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 3. WIFI - Smartphone 1 - Maximum 2 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 4. WIFI - Smartphone 2 - Maximum 2 mbps&#xD;&#xA; 5. WIFI - Smartphone 3 - Maximum 2 mbps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm using a cheap router given by my ISP and it doesn't support bandwidth controlling. I'm still not sure even this is possible so I would appreciate if anyone can suggest me a router for home use which can fulfill my need." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44225" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12619" RevisionGUID="ec94fc84-cf8b-4aa4-ac00-f41309170131" CreationDate="2019-12-31T12:28:41.143" UserId="14175" Text="Looking for a ADSL/VDSL Router that support bandwidth controlling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44226" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12619" RevisionGUID="ec94fc84-cf8b-4aa4-ac00-f41309170131" CreationDate="2019-12-31T12:28:41.143" UserId="14175" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="ac526bff-5ae6-40b4-97c8-6960c5aedd67" CreationDate="2019-12-31T17:25:52.500" UserId="14137" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are Dell G5 5590 and Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52.So, having any experience using these brands I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops. Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?&#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using these laptops.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44231" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="ac526bff-5ae6-40b4-97c8-6960c5aedd67" CreationDate="2019-12-31T17:25:52.500" UserId="14137" Text="Acer or Dell? Which of these laptops is better to set dual boot system?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44232" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="ac526bff-5ae6-40b4-97c8-6960c5aedd67" CreationDate="2019-12-31T17:25:52.500" UserId="14137" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44234" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="12956d65-2ea4-4fcb-b722-a740ed58eb32" CreationDate="2020-01-01T05:03:42.617" UserId="14137" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are Dell G5 5590 and Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops. Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?&#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using these laptops.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12622" RevisionGUID="cf76993b-3804-48b4-bda9-c2d935215877" CreationDate="2020-01-01T12:32:00.267" UserId="4595" Text="You will need an adapter for it because usb2 is 9 pin and your product mentioned is usb3 19 pin bracket so something similar like [this][1] can talk to both mother board and bracket.&#xA;&#xA;[![usb adapter][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://m.snapdeal.com/product/eatech-025m-data-cables-usb/630967316260?gclid=CjwKCAiAo7HwBRBKEiwAvC_Q8QruRJVPUinQw68yzZHXJfRzjLJHKTmxC26q2gSKPNJpkM1cKTNbwhoCfNcQAvD_BwE&amp;supc=SDL791484462&amp;utm_source=earth_web&amp;utm_medium=150_249&amp;utm_content=630967316260&amp;vendorCode=S9b203&amp;isSellerPage=true&amp;fv=true&amp;utm_source=earth_pla&amp;utm_campaign=Catchall_estimatedCM_New&amp;utm_term=44394553586&amp;utm_medium=44394553586&amp;s_kwcid=AL!660!3!210325674210!!!g!301462959092!&amp;ef_id=XgyPTgAAAHTTzs2g:20200101122342:s&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgFpN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44236" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="93b7b451-df23-4a5e-8c02-3714acbb8c4e" CreationDate="2020-01-01T18:02:10.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44237" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="ebfaef71-5acd-4577-bf32-ad75139e09e3" CreationDate="2020-01-01T21:02:30.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44239" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="7ecc1e44-901a-486a-be9c-e987d51ca38a" CreationDate="2020-01-01T23:02:45.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44240" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12623" RevisionGUID="7071da2e-2e5c-4d90-a1c7-672df70a5cba" CreationDate="2020-01-02T01:03:05.133" UserId="13945" Text="I think I've converged on a laptop that meets the following criteria, adapted from&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12453/seek-14-laptop-touchpad-buttons-synaptics-touchpad-trial-able-before-deci&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Brand: Not Lenova nor Dell Latitude (possibly others - prefer not to discuss brand criteria)&#xD;&#xA;* OS: Windows 10 64-bit, home or pro&#xD;&#xA;* Processor type: i5, 8th generation (4 cores or  more)&#xD;&#xA;* Screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 8GB and up&#xD;&#xA;* 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;* Fixed (unmoving) touchpad with 2 separate buttons beneath it + Synaptics drivers&#xD;&#xA;* Not 1-piece clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA;* Preferably no pointing stick, but might be tolerable&#xD;&#xA;* Future-proof for 8 years for modest usage (browsing, Microsoft Office, Cywin, Netflix)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #1&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P2 P2410-G2-M variants NX.VGTAA.005, NX.VGTAA.006&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.006 TMP2410-G2-M-55HN 14&quot; Notebook - 1366 x 768 - Core i5 i5-8250U - 8 GB RAM - 500 GB HDD - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - Intel UHD Graphics 620 - ComfyView - English Keyboard - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.005 has additional French Keyboard Localization&#xD;&#xA;* Info pages:&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E005.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E006.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-tra...re-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305?pfm=srh&#xD;&#xA;* Old model review https://www.channelpronetwork.com/review/review-acer-travelmate-p2-goldilocks-performance&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, Synaptics at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/767?b=1&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/CA/content/professional-model/NX.VGTAA.005&#xD;&#xA;        * https://static.acer.com/up/Resource/Acer/Professional/Product/Notebook/TravelMate%20P2/Photo%20Gallery/20180213/TravelMate-P2410_gallery_05.png&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-travelmate-p2410-g2-m-55hn-14in-core-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305&#xD;&#xA;        * https://webobjects2.cdw.com/is/image/CDW/5280305c?wid=1142&amp;hei=818&amp;resMode=bilin&amp;fit=fit,1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #2&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P648-MG TMP648-MG-746N Notebook 14&quot; FHD IPS ComfyView, Intel Core i7-6500U Dual-core (2.50 GHz), 8GB DDR4, 256GB SSD NVIDIA GeForce 940M 2GB, Win7 Pro Upgradable to Win10 Pro (64-bit)&#xD;&#xA;* Manufactcurer number NX.VCWAA.003&#xD;&#xA;* Info: https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=664_1524&amp;item_id=119426&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, no nub, Synaptics: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/6693?b=1&#xD;&#xA;* Doesn't have 4+ core i5, does i7 make up for computational horse power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) In view of my criteria, can anyone provide considerations to ponder in choosing between these two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Acer is Taiwanese, but in which country are Acer TravelMates made?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44241" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12623" RevisionGUID="7071da2e-2e5c-4d90-a1c7-672df70a5cba" CreationDate="2020-01-02T01:03:05.133" UserId="13945" Text="Acer TravelMate P2410 or P648-MG?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44242" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12623" RevisionGUID="7071da2e-2e5c-4d90-a1c7-672df70a5cba" CreationDate="2020-01-02T01:03:05.133" UserId="13945" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44243" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12623" RevisionGUID="c5fbf598-bc6e-437f-a932-5c37c751e697" CreationDate="2020-01-02T01:46:09.920" UserId="13945" Comment="added 254 characters in body" Text="I think I've converged on a laptop that meets the following criteria, adapted from&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12453/seek-14-laptop-touchpad-buttons-synaptics-touchpad-trial-able-before-deci&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Brand: Not Lenova nor Dell Latitude (possibly others - prefer not to discuss brand criteria)&#xD;&#xA;* OS: Windows 10 64-bit, home or pro&#xD;&#xA;* Processor type: i5, 8th generation (4 cores or  more)&#xD;&#xA;* Screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 8GB and up&#xD;&#xA;* 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;* Fixed (unmoving) touchpad with 2 separate buttons beneath it + Synaptics drivers&#xD;&#xA;* Not 1-piece clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA;* Preferably no pointing stick, but might be tolerable&#xD;&#xA;* Future-proof for 8 years for modest usage (browsing, Microsoft Office, Cywin, Netflix)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #1&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P2 P2410-G2-M variants NX.VGTAA.005, NX.VGTAA.006&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.006 TMP2410-G2-M-55HN 14&quot; Notebook - 1366 x 768 - Core i5 i5-8250U - 8 GB RAM - 500 GB HDD - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - Intel UHD Graphics 620 - ComfyView - English Keyboard - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.005 has additional French Keyboard Localization&#xD;&#xA;* Info pages:&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E005.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E006.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-tra...re-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305?pfm=srh&#xD;&#xA;* Old model review https://www.channelpronetwork.com/review/review-acer-travelmate-p2-goldilocks-performance&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, Synaptics at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/767?b=1&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/CA/content/professional-model/NX.VGTAA.005&#xD;&#xA;        * https://static.acer.com/up/Resource/Acer/Professional/Product/Notebook/TravelMate%20P2/Photo%20Gallery/20180213/TravelMate-P2410_gallery_05.png&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-travelmate-p2410-g2-m-55hn-14in-core-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305&#xD;&#xA;        * https://webobjects2.cdw.com/is/image/CDW/5280305c?wid=1142&amp;hei=818&amp;resMode=bilin&amp;fit=fit,1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #2&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P648-MG TMP648-MG-746N Notebook 14&quot; FHD IPS ComfyView, Intel Core i7-6500U Dual-core (2.50 GHz), 8GB DDR4, 256GB SSD NVIDIA GeForce 940M 2GB, Win7 Pro Upgradable to Win10 Pro (64-bit)&#xD;&#xA;* Manufactcurer number NX.VCWAA.003&#xD;&#xA;* Info: https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=664_1524&amp;item_id=119426&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, no nub, Synaptics: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/6693?b=1&#xD;&#xA;* Doesn't have 4+ core i5, does i7 make up for computational horse power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;(1) In view of my criteria, can anyone provide considerations to ponder in choosing between these two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Acer is Taiwanese, but in which country are Acer TravelMates made?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) For those who have owned/used one/both of these models, how do you find the touchpad regristration of contact and tracking of finger movement?  No false contact from nearness of hand, and pointer tracking feels natural rather than erratic?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44246" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="a6486e1b-7185-487f-b009-9a9252cbc8c3" CreationDate="2020-01-02T04:03:35.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44247" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12623" RevisionGUID="d1a62692-29e4-4c2a-a9bb-3d1d52173534" CreationDate="2020-01-02T05:19:34.887" UserId="13945" Comment="added 203 characters in body" Text="I think I've converged on a laptop that meets the following criteria, adapted from&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12453/seek-14-laptop-touchpad-buttons-synaptics-touchpad-trial-able-before-deci&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Brand: Not Lenova nor Dell Latitude (possibly others - prefer not to discuss brand criteria)&#xD;&#xA;* OS: Windows 10 64-bit, home or pro&#xD;&#xA;* Processor type: i5, 8th generation (4 cores or  more)&#xD;&#xA;* Screen size: 14&quot;&#xD;&#xA;* Memory: 8GB and up&#xD;&#xA;* 256GB SSD or 512GB HDD&#xD;&#xA;* Fixed (unmoving) touchpad with 2 separate buttons beneath it + Synaptics drivers&#xD;&#xA;* Not 1-piece clickpad with depressable corners&#xD;&#xA;* Preferably no pointing stick, but might be tolerable&#xD;&#xA;* Future-proof for 8 years for modest usage (browsing, Microsoft Office, Cywin, Netflix)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #1&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P2 P2410-G2-M variants NX.VGTAA.005, NX.VGTAA.006&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.006 TMP2410-G2-M-55HN 14&quot; Notebook - 1366 x 768 - Core i5 i5-8250U - 8 GB RAM - 500 GB HDD - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - Intel UHD Graphics 620 - ComfyView - English Keyboard - Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;* NX.VGTAA.005 has additional French Keyboard Localization&#xD;&#xA;* Info pages:&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E005.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.pc-canada.com/item/NX%2EVGTAA%2E006.html&#xD;&#xA;    * https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-tra...re-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305?pfm=srh&#xD;&#xA;* Old model review https://www.channelpronetwork.com/review/review-acer-travelmate-p2-goldilocks-performance&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, Synaptics at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/767?b=1&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.acer.com/ac/en/CA/content/professional-model/NX.VGTAA.005&#xD;&#xA;        * https://static.acer.com/up/Resource/Acer/Professional/Product/Notebook/TravelMate%20P2/Photo%20Gallery/20180213/TravelMate-P2410_gallery_05.png&#xD;&#xA;    * Top view at https://www.cdw.ca/product/acer-travelmate-p2410-g2-m-55hn-14in-core-i5-8250u-8-gb-ram-500-gb-h/5280305&#xD;&#xA;        * https://webobjects2.cdw.com/is/image/CDW/5280305c?wid=1142&amp;hei=818&amp;resMode=bilin&amp;fit=fit,1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option #2&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;* Acer TravelMate P648-MG TMP648-MG-746N Notebook 14&quot; FHD IPS ComfyView, Intel Core i7-6500U Dual-core (2.50 GHz), 8GB DDR4, 256GB SSD NVIDIA GeForce 940M 2GB, Win7 Pro Upgradable to Win10 Pro (64-bit)&#xD;&#xA;* Manufactcurer number NX.VCWAA.003&#xD;&#xA;* Info: https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=664_1524&amp;item_id=119426&#xD;&#xA;* Touchpad + buttons, no nub, Synaptics: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/6693?b=1&#xD;&#xA;* Doesn't have 4+ core i5, does i7 make up for computational horse power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Questions&#xD;&#xA;---------&#xD;&#xA;(1) In view of my criteria, can anyone provide considerations to ponder in choosing between these two?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Acer is Taiwanese, but in which country are Acer TravelMates made?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) For those who have owned/used one/both of these models, how do you find the touchpad regristration of contact and tracking of finger movement?  No false contact from nearness of hand, and pointer tracking feels natural rather than erratic?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(4) An IT support colleague said that laptops upgraded from Windows 7 to 10 will be missing drivers. If a laptop's specification say Windows 10, does that mean it Windows 10 was installed from scratch?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44248" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="7cb445da-e211-4492-b101-672f7cd79a42" CreationDate="2020-01-02T06:02:10.263" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="c2cecc87-3083-4678-8b45-3f259fb37ec0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T08:03:11.327" UserId="9333" Text="I am looking for a router with integrated vectoring DSL modem (100 Mbit/s) supporting Wi-Fi 6 i.e. the new IEEE 802.11ax standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should have an officially supported option to login via SSH and ideally the vendor should have a good  record of OpenWRT compatibility that is alternative router  firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44250" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="c2cecc87-3083-4678-8b45-3f259fb37ec0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T08:03:11.327" UserId="9333" Text="Wi-Fi 6 WAN DSL router with SSH access?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44251" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="c2cecc87-3083-4678-8b45-3f259fb37ec0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T08:03:11.327" UserId="9333" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44252" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="b8b733e0-d20b-4813-a357-841f5ca4985d" CreationDate="2020-01-02T11:02:05.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44257" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12626" RevisionGUID="f2915949-3cd5-4301-936d-b855b90498f0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T12:03:31.803" UserId="14134" Text="I am going to build an IoT water flow meter. And I am using this meter:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/58sUf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which generated a pulse every time its meter completes a rotation. My objective is to read that pulse and send that reading data to the cloud using the GSM module. But when there is no Internet connection(GPRS) the controller should store the values of the counter to its EEPROM(Flash Memory) and when device comes online it should send it to the cloud. The device will send data every 2-5 min. I will make multiple these types of devices and from which one(Alpha) will be collecting and sending data to the cloud using the GSM module and others will send data to this(Alpha) module via RS485 or other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I am not able to choose which microcontroller would be best for this purpose and unable to find MCU which has storage size between 50kb-1MB so that it can store large amounts of data. I don't want to add external EEPROM to it. And also selected MCU should be programmable using Arduino IDE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have thought of using the ESP32 GSM Module Board to do this. But it's EEPROM memory is low. And I don't have any IDEA how much storage is good for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget with this water flow meter is low. So suggest me an MCU which will work for me or whose storage will be enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44258" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12626" RevisionGUID="f2915949-3cd5-4301-936d-b855b90498f0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T12:03:31.803" UserId="14134" Text="Microcontroller Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44259" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12626" RevisionGUID="f2915949-3cd5-4301-936d-b855b90498f0" CreationDate="2020-01-02T12:03:31.803" UserId="14134" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44262" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12626" RevisionGUID="871aa53f-1ca6-4321-99fb-3570c8f46702" CreationDate="2020-01-02T12:28:58.167" UserId="14134" Comment="added 9 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am going to build an IoT water flow meter. And I am using below meter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which generated a pulse every time its meter completes a rotation. My objective is to read that pulse and send that reading data to the cloud using the GSM module. But when there is no Internet connection(GPRS) the controller should store the values of the counter to its EEPROM(Flash Memory) and when device comes online it should send it to the cloud. The device will send data every 2-5 min. I will make multiple these types of devices and from which one(Alpha) will be collecting and sending data to the cloud using the GSM module and others will send data to this(Alpha) module via RS485 or other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is I am not able to choose which microcontroller would be best for this purpose and unable to find MCU which has storage size between 50kb-1MB so that it can store large amounts of data. I don't want to add external EEPROM to it. And also selected MCU should be programmable using Arduino IDE.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have thought of using the ESP32 GSM Module Board to do this. But it's EEPROM memory is low. And I don't have any IDEA how much storage is good for this purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget with this water flow meter is low. So suggest me an MCU which will work for me or whose storage will be enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/58sUf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44263" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12626" RevisionGUID="871aa53f-1ca6-4321-99fb-3570c8f46702" CreationDate="2020-01-02T12:28:58.167" UserId="14134" Comment="added 9 characters in body; edited title" Text="Micro-controller Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12627" RevisionGUID="52939a0f-f9c6-4baa-9ad8-7c39f4021c2c" CreationDate="2020-01-02T13:16:41.317" UserId="14179" Text="I recently got in a CS program. It will be my first laptop, so don't know much about them. Please recommend me which one should I get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Rating: 5.1 Windows Experience Index&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4200U CPU @1.6GHz 2.30GHz&#xD;&#xA;System type: 64-bit Operating System&#xD;&#xA;Pen or Touch: No Pen or Touch Input is available for this Display.&#xD;&#xA;Computer name: Dell-PC&#xD;&#xA;Workgroup: WORKGROUP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has number key pad.&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel(R)Core(TM)i5 CPU M 520 @ 2.40GHz 2.40 GHz&#xD;&#xA;Installed RAM: 4.00 GB (3.86 GB usable)&#xD;&#xA;System type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor&#xD;&#xA;Pen and touch: Touch support with 2 touch points.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No number keypad.&#xD;&#xA;```" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12627" RevisionGUID="52939a0f-f9c6-4baa-9ad8-7c39f4021c2c" CreationDate="2020-01-02T13:16:41.317" UserId="14179" Text="Which Laptop should I buy as a CS student?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44266" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12627" RevisionGUID="52939a0f-f9c6-4baa-9ad8-7c39f4021c2c" CreationDate="2020-01-02T13:16:41.317" UserId="14179" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12628" RevisionGUID="c9a75604-95f0-4b40-b650-afd705df18c4" CreationDate="2020-01-02T17:32:35.610" UserId="9282" Text="I have the following system: i5 8400, MSI B360 Gaming Plus, 16GB of DDR4 (2x8), GTX1050 Ti, 4 case fans (3 of them powered at 5V and one from the MB), CM Hyper 212 Evo, 1 SSD, 1 HDD, 1 ODD. &#xD;&#xA;I need a new power supply because the actual one is dying. I will also get a new GPU (probably a GTX1660 Ti or RTX2060), and one or 2 more SSD's or HDD's. &#xD;&#xA;My current power supply is a Sirtec High Power 600W Bronze. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which from the following should be OK for my system:&#xD;&#xA;Seasonic Focus GX, 80+ Gold, 550W or&#xD;&#xA; Super Flower SF-550F14MT, 550W 80+ Silver ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44271" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12628" RevisionGUID="c9a75604-95f0-4b40-b650-afd705df18c4" CreationDate="2020-01-02T17:32:35.610" UserId="9282" Text="Power Supply 550W" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44272" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12628" RevisionGUID="c9a75604-95f0-4b40-b650-afd705df18c4" CreationDate="2020-01-02T17:32:35.610" UserId="9282" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12629" RevisionGUID="8cb83a21-0c59-448f-8413-c1af191eec9f" CreationDate="2020-01-02T18:01:07.070" UserId="98" Text="I have a couple of cordless landline phones with docking stations. Whenever a docking station is unoccupied, I want some sort of signal lamp to light up, until the phone is returned to the cradle. When the phone is in the cradle, the lamp should be off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure whether such a thing even exists.&#xD;&#xA;But this seems like such a common problem. This is for a senior person, phones are often left to discharge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phones are DECT phones by Siemens; I believe with unstandardized cradles.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for either some sort of sensor that can be taped to the cradle to detect whether a phone is present; or perhaps some sort of DECT device that can monitor the charging state of nearby phones? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so I am looking for some sort of device:&#xD;&#xA;    - light on, when a nearby phone is not in cradle&#xD;&#xA;    - light off, when phone is in cradle&#xD;&#xA;    - ideally not much assembly required&#xD;&#xA;    - as maintenance free as possible&#xD;&#xA;    - very optional: some sort of remote monitoring via internet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I fear that nothing like this exists, all my searches turned up empty so far. The closest I could think is some sort of Arduino &amp; sensor assembly, but I have no experience with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44274" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12629" RevisionGUID="8cb83a21-0c59-448f-8413-c1af191eec9f" CreationDate="2020-01-02T18:01:07.070" UserId="98" Text="signal light showing phone charge state" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44275" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12629" RevisionGUID="8cb83a21-0c59-448f-8413-c1af191eec9f" CreationDate="2020-01-02T18:01:07.070" UserId="98" Text="&lt;telephony&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44277" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12618" RevisionGUID="a24bb235-81bd-4ed8-8fa2-65bd11251038" CreationDate="2020-01-02T21:44:10.813" UserId="10648" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12630" RevisionGUID="d64599a4-38ff-4405-80f9-b90e9e3a0651" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:28:27.260" UserId="14109" Text="I want to buy [this][1] transmitter/receiver but in specifications I see everything about audio only. Can I use it with my PC to connect keyboard or mouse?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000117330187.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.17bc2d29V2xpr0&amp;algo_pvid=d5b5eb99-4117-40ce-a1ad-4ab594c055c2&amp;algo_expid=d5b5eb99-4117-40ce-a1ad-4ab594c055c2-43&amp;btsid=556ef4d1-7ee7-448e-bd38-5fc3c5dde510&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_53" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44279" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12630" RevisionGUID="d64599a4-38ff-4405-80f9-b90e9e3a0651" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:28:27.260" UserId="14109" Text="Is Bluetooth transmitter/receiver fine for connecting mouse/keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44280" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12630" RevisionGUID="d64599a4-38ff-4405-80f9-b90e9e3a0651" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:28:27.260" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12631" RevisionGUID="7f3d4ba4-77ca-451c-9f2f-b121e4fdcb57" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:44:12.840" UserId="6089" Text="Based on the information and drawings on the link you've provided, it appears that the USB port is supplying power and very likely power only. The double-ended cables provide for audio source/destination for the bluetooth aspect of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This means the answer to your question is quite likely NO." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44282" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12631" RevisionGUID="625d966d-8ebb-4210-b00c-5afe497234f9" CreationDate="2020-01-03T01:55:23.023" UserId="6089" Comment="added 363 characters in body" Text="Based on the information and drawings on the link you've provided, it appears that the USB port is supplying power and very likely power only. The double-ended cables provide for audio source/destination for the bluetooth aspect of the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This means the answer to your question is quite likely NO.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A quick search discovers a product available that explicitly presents as mouse/keyboard capable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[eBay link for example][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![ebay photo][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Bluetooth-5-0-Adapter-Drive-Desktop-Computer-Dongle-Transceiver-Music-Audio-/293148378343?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2le5d.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44283" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12632" RevisionGUID="84b09d6b-5403-409a-a13d-3e9272c3f184" CreationDate="2020-01-03T02:10:08.757" UserId="14109" Text="I could buy type-B USB OTG host hub like [this][1] (4th selection) and type-B female/type-C male. But do I need some special adapter which supports OTG? Or maybe it's better to buy type-C OTG host hub?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33046931927.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ec4720d53H2qq&amp;algo_pvid=29840a05-7b0e-4758-9aaa-f91898b06316&amp;algo_expid=29840a05-7b0e-4758-9aaa-f91898b06316-17&amp;btsid=7060f49d-f395-486d-b441-ceadc83372c6&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_53" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44284" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12632" RevisionGUID="84b09d6b-5403-409a-a13d-3e9272c3f184" CreationDate="2020-01-03T02:10:08.757" UserId="14109" Text="Is it better to buy OTG host hub with type-C or micro type-B if I have B and C compatible devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44285" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12632" RevisionGUID="84b09d6b-5403-409a-a13d-3e9272c3f184" CreationDate="2020-01-03T02:10:08.757" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44286" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12633" RevisionGUID="b5ccfc04-3723-4f1d-a3de-76c27454a5d0" CreationDate="2020-01-03T03:49:59.877" UserId="378" Text="I want to start my air conditioner at 7am in the morning, and via my phone when coming back from work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I am looking for a device with the characteristics below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Hardware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can connect to my home WiFi to receive instructions from the web.&#xD;&#xA;- Can switch on/off my air conditioner. And also my cell lighting if possible.&#xD;&#xA;- Can switch them on/off from a distance of 10 meters.&#xD;&#xA;- As small as possible.&#xD;&#xA;- As power-efficient as possible.&#xD;&#xA;- Using wall outlet electricity, not batteries.&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally contains a room temperature sensor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# API&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The API should require authentication.&#xD;&#xA;- The API should be open and documented.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Open source apps should be available for Android, if possible for iOS too.&#xD;&#xA; - Maintained by a sizable community (commits by different people in the last few months).&#xD;&#xA; - Ideally the sources/schematics for the hardware should be open source too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Appliances to control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Air conditioner: Fujitsu AS-J25C-W&#xD;&#xA;- Light (if possible): Panasonic HH-CC0834A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44287" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12633" RevisionGUID="b5ccfc04-3723-4f1d-a3de-76c27454a5d0" CreationDate="2020-01-03T03:49:59.877" UserId="378" Text="WiFi-connected device to control (via infrared) air conditioner and light, with maintained open source apps and SDK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44288" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12633" RevisionGUID="b5ccfc04-3723-4f1d-a3de-76c27454a5d0" CreationDate="2020-01-03T03:49:59.877" UserId="378" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12634" RevisionGUID="e0c4d6a1-c8da-48a5-986f-a227f6486d88" CreationDate="2020-01-03T04:21:41.830" UserId="241" Text="There are only three companies that make hard drives these days; everyone else is just re-branding something produced by one of these three.  There's basically no market for high-performance hard drives these days -- even the fastest hard drive can't compete with an SSD -- and so nobody makes a 10k RPM consumer-level hard drive.  You've got only two options for a drive that's larger than 2 TB:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A Seagate Exos 10E2400 2.4 TB hard drive, model ST2400MM0129, $350 or more.&#xD;&#xA;* A Toshiba AL15SEB24EP 2.4 TB hard drive, $420 or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are both enterprise-grade hard drives, in the 2.5&quot; form factor (2.5&quot; gives faster seek times than 3.5&quot; at the cost of reduced throughput), with SAS interfaces.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't recommend either of them: at that price range, you can get an SSD with similar capacity and vastly superior performance, without needing to worry about finding an SAS adapter card for your system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44290" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="6e1f5b41-52aa-450e-9d1c-288c7b05f021" CreationDate="2020-01-03T06:01:30.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44291" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12635" RevisionGUID="5a092612-48e9-486d-9977-0a479ed6791b" CreationDate="2020-01-03T06:02:31.577" UserId="14185" Text="I have a dell latitude E6230 i5 laptop, which is recently do not start anymore, it was verified by a technician and he said that the motherboard is damaged, so I have to bay a motherboard from aliexpress. When I looked through the site, I have found two types of cards and I do not know how to verify which one to bay:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The first one is :   Motherboard I5-33**20**M&#xD;&#xA; - The second one is:   Motherboard I5-33**40**M&#xD;&#xA; - And the last one is: Motherboard I5-33**80**M&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I provide the links for each one below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000034751897.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.65fd3a70FXEY9g&amp;algo_pvid=2fa82fa5-b81a-477a-abcc-a0466a5d3317&amp;algo_expid=2fa82fa5-b81a-477a-abcc-a0466a5d3317-4&amp;btsid=708e4582-f87a-4e37-b329-af87e98b09b1&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_53&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950340822.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.518e78b31AqNiQ&amp;algo_pvid=2417d833-e5ec-4760-8a1c-00ccc477797d&amp;algo_expid=2417d833-e5ec-4760-8a1c-00ccc477797d-9&amp;btsid=39fa5f3a-e1f6-4e00-81e8-c61558238710&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_53&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32835849787.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.65fd3a70FXEY9g&amp;algo_pvid=2fa82fa5-b81a-477a-abcc-a0466a5d3317&amp;algo_expid=2fa82fa5-b81a-477a-abcc-a0466a5d3317-3&amp;btsid=708e4582-f87a-4e37-b329-af87e98b09b1&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_53&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44292" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12635" RevisionGUID="5a092612-48e9-486d-9977-0a479ed6791b" CreationDate="2020-01-03T06:02:31.577" UserId="14185" Text="Dell latitude E6230 motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44293" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12635" RevisionGUID="5a092612-48e9-486d-9977-0a479ed6791b" CreationDate="2020-01-03T06:02:31.577" UserId="14185" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12636" RevisionGUID="ae2a4539-8a61-4474-b9d8-6d80d42cfd6f" CreationDate="2020-01-03T14:35:00.520" UserId="835" Text="I just replaced my old Apple Cinema monitor (1680x1050) with an AOC curve gaming display (2560x1440).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current setup does not seem to enjoy pushing that many pixels on the screen, laggy and jerky, I had to reduce the game (fallout 76) resolution to be playable; but I'd like to upgrade to something that would let me play at full resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz  (Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P67A-UD4-B3 (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (PNY)&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: 447GB KINGSTON SUV500480G ATA Device (SATA-2 (SSD))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't remember the wattage on my Power Supply, but If I remember, I got one that was over-powered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know my motherboard is old and not really upgradable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade motherboard/cpu or upgrade gpu ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not certain what is the limiting factor here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44296" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12636" RevisionGUID="ae2a4539-8a61-4474-b9d8-6d80d42cfd6f" CreationDate="2020-01-03T14:35:00.520" UserId="835" Text="Hardware upgrade path for high gaming resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44297" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12636" RevisionGUID="ae2a4539-8a61-4474-b9d8-6d80d42cfd6f" CreationDate="2020-01-03T14:35:00.520" UserId="835" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44299" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12637" RevisionGUID="ce06be92-5854-47b0-a39a-4c551d975dcd" CreationDate="2020-01-03T16:51:44.693" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; Is there still a manufacturer building 10000rpm hard drives or higher?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are still options available for enterprise customers, although most of these are drives that connect to SAS and are built into custom hot-swap enclosures. Many of them are less than 2TB capacity too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are a few stores/links I could find with up-to-date information:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Dell](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/sas-hard-drives/ar/8351)&#xD;&#xA;- [HPE](https://buy.hpe.com/us/en/options/drives-storage/server-hard-drives/server-hard-drives/hpe-server-enterprise-hard-drives/p/1009689640)&#xD;&#xA;- [Lenovo](https://lenovopress.com/lp1059-lenovo-thinksystem-hdd-summary)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am guessing that WD and Seagate no longer consider high RPM drives profitable in the consumer market against SSD storage; So they probably limited their production and sales of those drives to enterprise customers and entirely dropped the retail branding.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; And below 2TB this doesn t gives advantages over ssd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are SSDs currently available that saturate the bandwidth of SATA or SAS. Even a high density 15K RPM drive can't overcome that limitation, so I don't think high RPM drives have much of an advantage over SSDs at *any* capacity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44300" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="d7b78011-c0b3-41ed-87c0-a747e23a654e" CreationDate="2020-01-03T18:03:15.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44301" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="1b518c21-de8e-4694-9bad-d88c9e6e50d4" CreationDate="2020-01-03T18:19:13.873" UserId="1808" Comment="added 19 characters in body" Text="I am unable to find one.  &#xD;&#xA;And below 2TB this doesn t gives advantages over ssd in terms of prices. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12638" RevisionGUID="b434512a-8d65-40c0-941e-ac8d6f8e1eb1" CreationDate="2020-01-03T19:56:52.720" UserId="14187" Text="I have a Lenovo Ideapad 100 laptop. After using it more, than 10-15 mins, the monitor starts blinking. When I connect my laptop to a TV, the TV is not blinking, but the laptop screen continue blinking.&#xD;&#xA;What can be the problem? May the screen replacement slow the problem? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44303" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12638" RevisionGUID="b434512a-8d65-40c0-941e-ac8d6f8e1eb1" CreationDate="2020-01-03T19:56:52.720" UserId="14187" Text="Lenovo Ideapad 100 screen replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44304" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12638" RevisionGUID="b434512a-8d65-40c0-941e-ac8d6f8e1eb1" CreationDate="2020-01-03T19:56:52.720" UserId="14187" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44306" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12640" RevisionGUID="c0ee37de-ea75-427e-ad50-d20f10d9b0da" CreationDate="2020-01-03T22:07:44.247" UserId="7532" Text="**It is better to use type-C** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As more devices are moving to type-C and you can phase out your&#xD;&#xA;   adapter for type-B over time. &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Type-C also has more capabilities and you will be handicapped later&#xD;&#xA;   on by converting from B to C. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Your HUB does not need to specify OTG as it a standard that is&#xD;&#xA;   addopted by the device your are attaching it to (IE your smartphone).&#xD;&#xA;   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a USB-C hub that has worked very well for me across desktop, laptop, and smartphone: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDHD3VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44308" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12641" RevisionGUID="08d3b8d6-b0da-44ac-9d55-44f2f954760a" CreationDate="2020-01-04T02:54:26.463" UserId="241" Text="If you're going to upgrade something on that system, upgrade the GPU.  Even the fastest CPU your mainboard supports (an i7-3770K) is only 50% faster in multi-threaded performance, and less than 5% faster in single-threaded performance; the fastest modern CPU is less than 50% better single-threaded, gaining performance mostly by virtue of having 32 cores.  In comparison, there's plenty of headroom for improvement in the GPU, and more GPU is what you need to push more pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your existing GPU has a TDP of 120 watts.  Since you don't know how much extra capacity your PSU has, I'm going to recommend an upgrade with a comparable TDP: the GeForce GTX 1660 Super, for around $230.  Benchmarks give it a performance of 2x to 3x that of your current card, and unlike the GTX 960, reviewers considered it worthwhile to benchmark at resolutions above 1920x1080.  Since the card's fairly new, there's not yet much variation between manufacturers, so pick whichever card is cheapest (or looks the best, or whatever minor criterion is important to you).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Another upgrade option, much cheaper, but without much expected benefit, is another 8GB of RAM.  The P67 chipset is capable of dual-channel operation, so if you're seeing single-channel, it's because you've only got one stick of memory (likely) or the memory isn't in the correct slots (less likely).  Faster memory doesn't give much of a performance boost, though.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44309" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12642" RevisionGUID="a470f5a4-8bfc-4150-937c-9ac3fd681d3b" CreationDate="2020-01-04T03:17:15.853" UserId="241" Text="Either of those power supplies should meet your needs, and Seasonic and Super Flower are both respectable manufacturers.  With no strong reason to pick one over the other, I'd recommend the Seasonic simply because 80+ Gold is slightly more energy-efficient than 80+ Silver." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44310" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="8a301f95-52d3-4008-887c-7875e127f2f4" CreationDate="2020-01-04T05:01:15.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44311" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="e27510f0-b1f1-4d24-8f1b-10be9510b5ac" CreationDate="2020-01-04T06:58:56.580" UserId="14188" Text="&#xD;&#xA;Finding a USB hub that does what I need is more challenging than I expected!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fundamental issue here is that the laptop (Dell Latitude 7400 2-in-1) gets very hot when it's charging. So hot that the fans quickly kick in at 8000 RPM, even when the CPU is fixed at low clock speeds. They're really loud and make crazy buzzing noises.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I have some musical devices that I'd like to plug in all at once: 2 or 3 MIDI controllers and a USB audio interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the audio interface needs a decent amount of power, so I got this fancy little USB-C hub with a downstream PD input that powers the hub along with the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In theory, this should work great, but the buzzing 8000 RPM fan is messing with my peace when I'm trying to work on music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the problem is that after unplugging the charger from the downstream PD input on the hub, it doesn't provide enough power to the all of the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a USB-C hub that takes power from upstream power delivery and supplies full power to a bunch of USB-A ports, ideally at least 4 of them. I wouldn't mind if the thing also had HDMI or a downstream USB-C port, but it's not totally necessary." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44312" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="e27510f0-b1f1-4d24-8f1b-10be9510b5ac" CreationDate="2020-01-04T06:58:56.580" UserId="14188" Text="Trying to find a USB-C to ~4x USB-A hub that is fully powered from upstream power delivery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44313" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="e27510f0-b1f1-4d24-8f1b-10be9510b5ac" CreationDate="2020-01-04T06:58:56.580" UserId="14188" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44315" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12644" RevisionGUID="31e0a775-cb3e-4ec3-a356-4de187f2a74c" CreationDate="2020-01-04T16:18:14.877" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me 3m Micro to A-Type USB and Type-C to A-Type USB cable with not less than USB 3 with not less than 2A support. I tried to find these but didn't find anywhere." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44316" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12644" RevisionGUID="31e0a775-cb3e-4ec3-a356-4de187f2a74c" CreationDate="2020-01-04T16:18:14.877" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me 3m Micro to A-Type USB and Type-C to A-Type USB cable with not less than USB 3 and with not less than 2A support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44317" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12644" RevisionGUID="31e0a775-cb3e-4ec3-a356-4de187f2a74c" CreationDate="2020-01-04T16:18:14.877" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12640" RevisionGUID="05f14a5e-d13a-40f7-acc8-60f2a0a3012d" CreationDate="2020-01-04T16:49:00.000" UserId="7532" Comment="added 656 characters in body" Text="**It is better to use type-C** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - As more devices are moving to type-C and you can phase out your&#xD;&#xA;   adapter for type-B over time. &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Type-C also has more capabilities and you will be handicapped later&#xD;&#xA;   on by converting from B to C. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C&#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Your HUB does not need to specify OTG as it a standard that is&#xD;&#xA;   addopted by the device your are attaching it to (IE your smartphone).&#xD;&#xA;   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a USB-C hub that has worked very well for me across desktop, laptop, and smartphone: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDHD3VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit to answer comment:** &#xD;&#xA;Your first question is answered above. Your second question is answered below. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an image of what you are likely to find inside the adapter: https://images.app.goo.gl/AVwQqKQCk6SfeSMj7&#xD;&#xA;The unused pin you see is used to sense whether your phone should act as the host or the device. When it acts as the host you are in the OTG mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could purchase a USB-B to A OTG adapter and a USB-A to C adapter but there is no guarantee that your older devices will support this. If you want to make sure both devices work, you could get 2 OTG adapters: one from B to A and one from C to A, and then use a USB-A hub. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44319" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12645" RevisionGUID="e96a50dd-8d0e-4cf9-ac4e-073391abb64a" CreationDate="2020-01-04T17:02:14.150" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="If these two are really your only options: the first one.&#xD;&#xA;The second option is extremely outdated. Judging by the CPU model, it is about 10 years old. The first one is not exactly recent either, but since I have one with a similar CPU, I can say with confidence that it is sufficient for basic computing needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But as was pointed out in a comment, there is more to laptops than the CPU model. If you could refine your question with at least a model name of the laptop, judging its suitability for a CS student would be easier." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12646" RevisionGUID="e936894b-02b1-4d69-ac87-b714baf33f80" CreationDate="2020-01-04T17:17:15.507" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="That's gonna be either expensive or impossible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know of only one &quot;m.2&quot; NVMe SSD with more than 4TB storage capacity: Samsung PM983 15.3TB (MZ1LB15THMLA-00007). It costs more than 5000€ where I live, and is hardly available anywhere. Plus this drive is physically larger than a usual m.2 SSD (NGSFF form factor), so it might not fit into all motherboards/enclosures.&#xD;&#xA;As for 2.5&quot; SATA SSDs: they currently cap out at 8TB capacity. 2.5&quot; SATA HDDs at 5TB capacity." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44321" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12647" RevisionGUID="86cde396-f3a1-4969-bb03-152890aea4dc" CreationDate="2020-01-04T18:16:22.250" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="The difference between these three options is the CPU model, which is soldered to the board. So it depends entirely on your preference which CPU you want.&#xD;&#xA;But judging by the current used prices for this particular laptop, I would seriously consider if buying a used motherboard and trying to fix the problem is worth it, compared to just buying a replacement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12648" RevisionGUID="2cfa16f5-d0e5-43a6-b1c3-5d573c093490" CreationDate="2020-01-04T18:25:44.603" UserId="7532" Text="**Unfortunately, what you are looking for does not yet exist**. (Jan 2020)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry it's not the answer you were looking for but it is the correct one. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Routers:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You can find some Wifi 6 routers, like [this&#xD;&#xA;   one](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07X9K1N2N/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RmneEb0FZTR1C).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - You are unlikely to find any that support ssh out of the box, but&#xD;&#xA;   OpenWRT would give you this option. However, none are officially&#xD;&#xA;   supported by OpenWRT yet: [Table of&#xD;&#xA;   hardware](https://openwrt.org/toh/views/toh_available_16128)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Modem:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are no combined units yet available outside of using one provided by an ISP. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend using a combined unit anyway. You would be much better off getting a good quality modem that is stand-alone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - My current modem has lasted me through 3 routers now as wifi speeds&#xD;&#xA;   go up but the connection to my ISP remains below the peak of my&#xD;&#xA;   modem.  &#xD;&#xA; - Combined units will also be more expensive and outdated sooner." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44323" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12649" RevisionGUID="9db788bd-aba3-4c2b-8e37-b6ac9d5334e4" CreationDate="2020-01-04T18:57:14.760" UserId="7532" Text="**A new HUB:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a [USB-C hub with 4x USB-A](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PY87TBD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_v2neEb1PDH2W3). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because it does not have other features, (such as video) it will require less power itself and therefore allow more power to flow to your devices. It has power pass-through as well, but the power available without the pass-through is dependent on your laptop and the devices that you plan to plug in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Fan Speed:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A better solution to your problem is to change your fan speed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through windows, you can go to `Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Power Options\Change Plan Settings\Change advanced power settings\Processor power management`. Here there are several options that will allow you to change how your processor and fans are controlled.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you download a third party software or go into your computer BIOS, you can control the fan speed directly. Please note that lower fan speeds mean less cooling and your performance will suffer. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12650" RevisionGUID="418e8668-da65-4b14-b084-994cb25b9802" CreationDate="2020-01-05T03:13:23.503" UserId="784" Text="I'm wondering about the pricing. I'm about to decide my next Intel CPU and according to [cpu-world.com](http://www.cpu-world.com/info/Intel/processor-number.html) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![img](http://i.imgur.com/NPnRs2y.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the i9-9960X has a higher frequency and otherwise the same properties as the i9-7960X. However, the 9960X is currently available for 860 Euros, while the 7960X requires almost 1700 Euros. What am I missing?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In general, I was considering to buy a 16 core Intel CPU. I currently have an 8 core i7-5960X which served me well during the last years." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12650" RevisionGUID="418e8668-da65-4b14-b084-994cb25b9802" CreationDate="2020-01-05T03:13:23.503" UserId="784" Text="Difference Intel CPU: i9-7960X and i9-9960X" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12650" RevisionGUID="418e8668-da65-4b14-b084-994cb25b9802" CreationDate="2020-01-05T03:13:23.503" UserId="784" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12651" RevisionGUID="ad1db870-6278-481d-8d61-ed78ecdd8eb7" CreationDate="2020-01-05T09:46:48.450" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Somewhere between these two generations of Intel CPUs, AMD happended. Their Threadripper CPUs and Ryzen CPUs with high core counts more or less forced retailers to lower their prices for Intel X299 CPUs. https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-skylake-x-price-cut-cascade-lake-x&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then with the current 10th generation of X299 CPUs (e.g. I9-10980XE) Intel  lowered MSRP for their CPUs significantly. See https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-cascade-lake-x-pricing-availability-launch-specifications-10th-generation,40526.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So don't let the price difference fool you into thinking the older 7th gen CPUs are that much better than current 10th gen Cascade-Lake X CPUs, or 9th gen CPUs. They just did not get the price cuts, because they are too old to be relevant in today's market." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44334" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12651" RevisionGUID="5eb075e5-4105-44ba-bbd5-4e5fd61b1afb" CreationDate="2020-01-05T09:52:27.153" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 35 characters in body" Text="Somewhere between these two generations of Intel CPUs, AMD happended. Their Threadripper CPUs and Ryzen CPUs with high core counts more or less forced retailers to lower their prices for Intel X299 CPUs, particularly the Skylake-X lineup. https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-skylake-x-price-cut-cascade-lake-x&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then with the current 10th generation of X299 CPUs (e.g. I9-10980XE) Intel  lowered MSRP for their CPUs significantly. See https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-cascade-lake-x-pricing-availability-launch-specifications-10th-generation,40526.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So don't let the price difference fool you into thinking the older 7th gen CPUs are that much better than current 10th gen Cascade-Lake X CPUs, or 9th gen CPUs. They just did not get the price cuts, because they are too old to be relevant in today's retail market." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12651" RevisionGUID="32fc0668-7ae0-4829-8a0e-268d8d90c16c" CreationDate="2020-01-05T10:00:06.207" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="Clarified scope of answer" Text="Since the question seems to be mostly about the price difference, and not about technical differences between the two generations of CPUs, I will limit my answer to the former.&#xD;&#xA;Somewhere between these two generations of Intel CPUs, AMD happended. Their Threadripper CPUs and Ryzen CPUs with high core counts more or less forced retailers to lower their prices for Intel X299 CPUs, particularly the Skylake-X lineup. https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-skylake-x-price-cut-cascade-lake-x&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then with the current 10th generation of X299 CPUs (e.g. I9-10980XE) Intel  lowered MSRP for their CPUs significantly. See https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-cascade-lake-x-pricing-availability-launch-specifications-10th-generation,40526.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So don't let the price difference fool you into thinking the older 7th gen CPUs are that much better than current 10th gen Cascade-Lake X CPUs, or 9th gen CPUs. They just did not get the price cuts, because they are too old to be relevant in today's retail market." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44336" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="c6a6ebbd-94a3-45fa-a5c6-4ecddc96cbba" CreationDate="2020-01-05T14:30:40.603" UserId="14190" Text="I'm planning to buy a laptop for work (mainly simulations/scientific computing + general use). I found the following two models of Lenovo Legion y540, the specs are identical except for three things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Price   | $1085                   | $1310                      | &#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | GPU     | NVidia GeForce GTX 1650 | NVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Battery | 52.5 Wh                 | 57 Wh                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Charger | 170 W                   | 230 W                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The full specification sheet is here for reference (differences highlighted in red): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price difference, as you see, is about $225, so which one of these is better for my use and which would give better user experience in general? Will the 1650 be able to drive the 144Hz panel and provide smooth experience? or is 144Hz an overkill for it? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/guV9m.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIpc7.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44337" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="c6a6ebbd-94a3-45fa-a5c6-4ecddc96cbba" CreationDate="2020-01-05T14:30:40.603" UserId="14190" Text="Which laptop do you recommend for a nongamer, i7 9750H, 144Hz display with GTX 1650 or same with GTX 1660 Ti?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44338" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="c6a6ebbd-94a3-45fa-a5c6-4ecddc96cbba" CreationDate="2020-01-05T14:30:40.603" UserId="14190" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44339" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12653" RevisionGUID="1033f2fd-9111-4304-b99d-dc74673aaf5e" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:38:13.263" UserId="6073" Text="According to [Intel][1] the i9-9900T  was launched in Q2'19 but I can't find it in any retailers or online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried some other T designated CPUs and no luck with those either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in the T designated CPUs for their low power specs, which imply lower heat dissipation hence lower noise in their cooling.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the i9-9900T available for end-users at all?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191044/intel-core-i9-9900t-processor-16m-cache-up-to-4-40-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44340" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12653" RevisionGUID="1033f2fd-9111-4304-b99d-dc74673aaf5e" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:38:13.263" UserId="6073" Text="Intel Core i9 9900T" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44341" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12653" RevisionGUID="1033f2fd-9111-4304-b99d-dc74673aaf5e" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:38:13.263" UserId="6073" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12654" RevisionGUID="97efaf35-8b70-459b-bb97-7f490322b0d2" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:49:57.873" UserId="14191" Text="I have a desktop computer on a room that is far from the internet router. This computer has a network cable to the router so it has internet connection. But when I'm on this room, my smartphone and my other laptop computer can't use the WiFi from this router (because it's out of range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a recommendation of an (dual band) Wireless Access Point that I can plug the internet cable in, but also has another cable output for my desktop PC. Most of the Access points I find has only one Ethernet port, and the ones that has two, one is labelled &quot;WAN&quot; and the other &quot;LAN&quot;, which makes me a bit confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also would like my desktop computer to be on the same IP range of the other devices, I don't want to make another network inside my network, as I have a printer and NAS drive on the network. I have tried to use another router on this wired connection, but it makes another network for my devices inside my room, also the network name is different so SmartPhone takes some time to switch from one network to another when I'm walking between both networks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such product exists?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44343" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12654" RevisionGUID="97efaf35-8b70-459b-bb97-7f490322b0d2" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:49:57.873" UserId="14191" Text="One wired computer on a room far from the wireless router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44344" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12654" RevisionGUID="97efaf35-8b70-459b-bb97-7f490322b0d2" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:49:57.873" UserId="14191" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12655" RevisionGUID="a3c1fc4e-24b3-47a6-b39f-6619fd0577d0" CreationDate="2020-01-05T17:59:05.493" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Yes, you can buy the I9-9900T as an end-user. See e.g. here: https://clevo-computer.com/de/komponenten-zubehoer/prozessoren-cpus/intel/intel-9th-gen-coffee-lake-r/intel-core-i9/1392/intel-core-i9-9900t-8x-2.10ghz-tray-cm8068403874122&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding a bit of speculation: it was probably never intended by Intel to reach the end-user market as a stand-alone product. Hence why only the tray version is available, and no &quot;boxed&quot; version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further speculating on the intended use-case: if availability is a problem in your part of the world, you can just emulate an I9-9900T. Buy a regular I9-9900, und underclock/undervolt it. You will get pretty close in terms of power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;And if lower noise is your original motivation to get this CPU in particular, investing in a decent aftermarket cooler will absolutely help with that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="a0d92474-fc4d-46f3-a15b-4dd85d2e1d92" CreationDate="2020-01-05T18:07:01.373" UserId="14190" Comment="added 199 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm planning to buy a laptop for work (mainly simulations/scientific computing + general use). I found the following two models of [Lenovo Legion Y540-15IRH-PG0](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_Y54015IRHPG0?M=81SY004MAD) and [Lenovo Legion Y540-15IRH](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_Y54015IRH?M=81SX005TAD) the specs are identical except for three things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Price   | $1085                   | $1310                      | &#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | GPU     | NVidia GeForce GTX 1650 | NVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Battery | 52.5 Wh                 | 57 Wh                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Charger | 170 W                   | 230 W                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The full specification sheet is here for reference (differences highlighted in red): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price difference, as you see, is about $225, so which one of these is better for my use and which would give better user experience in general? Will the 1650 be able to drive the 144Hz panel and provide smooth experience? or is 144Hz an overkill for it? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/guV9m.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIpc7.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44347" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="a0d92474-fc4d-46f3-a15b-4dd85d2e1d92" CreationDate="2020-01-05T18:07:01.373" UserId="14190" Comment="added 199 characters in body; edited title" Text="NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 or GTX 1660 Ti for 144Hz display laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44348" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12656" RevisionGUID="e59bbfe4-312c-418f-9704-b0393d006667" CreationDate="2020-01-05T18:19:26.690" UserId="14192" Text="Can't decide between these 3 monitors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    BenQ PD3220U&#xD;&#xA;    LG 32UL950&#xD;&#xA;    Dell UP3216Q&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All 3 of them seem to have pretty similar characteristics and price which makes it really hard to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All 3 are **4k60**, all come with **HDR-10** (though **LG** comes with **HDR-600**), all come with **10-bit** panel (I'm not sure though cause among these 3 only **BenQ** seems to come with ***&quot;True&quot;*** **10-bit** panel with **LG** and **Dell** having **8-bit+FRC**)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you please provide some arguments for any of these monitors ? Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPD:** I'm planning to use a monitor mostly for working with graphics-design and for gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44349" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12656" RevisionGUID="e59bbfe4-312c-418f-9704-b0393d006667" CreationDate="2020-01-05T18:19:26.690" UserId="14192" Text="Choosing professional Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44350" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12656" RevisionGUID="e59bbfe4-312c-418f-9704-b0393d006667" CreationDate="2020-01-05T18:19:26.690" UserId="14192" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12654" RevisionGUID="db2954c4-c10a-4634-a8ff-168779368a79" CreationDate="2020-01-05T22:43:39.430" UserId="14191" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="I have a desktop computer on my home office room that is far from the internet router. This computer has a network cable to the router so it has internet connection. But when I'm on this room, my SmartPhone and my other laptop computer can't use the WiFi from this router (because it's out of range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a recommendation of an (dual band) Wireless Access Point that I can plug the internet cable in, but also has another cable output for my desktop PC. Most of the Access points I find has only one Ethernet port, and the ones that has two, one is labelled &quot;WAN&quot; and the other &quot;LAN&quot;, which makes me a bit confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also would like my desktop computer to be on the same IP range of the other devices, I don't want to make another network inside my network, as I have a printer and NAS drive on the network. I have tried to use another router on this wired connection, but it makes another network for my devices inside my room, also the network name is different so SmartPhone takes some time to switch from one network to another when I'm walking between both networks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Drawing of my house][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKKcC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12652" RevisionGUID="b8fb627a-f898-4649-8066-e2672626f590" CreationDate="2020-01-06T03:43:12.177" UserId="14190" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm planning to buy a laptop for work (mainly simulations/scientific computing + general use). I found the following two models: [Lenovo Legion Y540-15IRH-PG0](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_Y54015IRHPG0?M=81SY004MAD) and [Lenovo Legion Y540-15IRH](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_Y54015IRH?M=81SX005TAD). The specs are identical except for three things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Price   | $1085                   | $1310                      | &#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | GPU     | NVidia GeForce GTX 1650 | NVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Battery | 52.5 Wh                 | 57 Wh                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Charger | 170 W                   | 230 W                      |&#xD;&#xA;    +---------+-------------------------+----------------------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The full specification sheet is here for reference (differences highlighted in red): &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price difference, as you see, is about $225, so which one of these is better for my use and which would give better user experience in general? Will the 1650 be able to drive the 144Hz panel and provide smooth experience? or is 144Hz an overkill for it? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/guV9m.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIpc7.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44356" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12658" RevisionGUID="f98a8eff-2f18-428c-8a7d-bf56a38c431a" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:33:29.597" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44357" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12658" RevisionGUID="f98a8eff-2f18-428c-8a7d-bf56a38c431a" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:33:29.597" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44358" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12659" RevisionGUID="f2988a9f-7394-49ba-b1da-16c885d6475a" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:33:29.597" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44359" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12659" RevisionGUID="f2988a9f-7394-49ba-b1da-16c885d6475a" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:33:29.597" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12654" RevisionGUID="d9a81e32-0208-4d22-9f86-b664a8d706c1" CreationDate="2020-01-06T12:37:33.283" UserId="14191" Comment="added 395 characters in body" Text="I have a desktop computer on my home office room that is far from the internet router. This computer has a network cable to the router so it has internet connection. But when I'm on this room, my SmartPhone and my other laptop computer can't use the WiFi from this router (because it's out of range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a recommendation of a (dual band) Wireless Access Point that I can plug the internet cable in, but also has another cable output for my desktop PC. Most of the Access points I find has only one Ethernet port, and the ones that has two, one is labelled &quot;WAN&quot; and the other &quot;LAN&quot;, which makes me a bit confused.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also would like my desktop computer to be on the same IP range of the other devices, I don't want to make another network inside my network, as I have a printer and NAS drive on the network. I have tried to use another router on this wired connection, but it makes another network for my devices inside my room, also the network name is different so SmartPhone takes some time to switch from one network to another when I'm walking between both networks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TL; DR:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, recommend me a Wireless AP or Router that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Has an Ethernet Input and at least one Ethernet output&#xD;&#xA; - PC connected to the Ethernet output is on the same IP range of the rest of the other devices&#xD;&#xA; - WiFi SSID and Password is the same of the main router SSID and Password, so I can walk by my house and the Phone just switches between main router and AP seamlessly&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Drawing of my house][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKKcC.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12660" RevisionGUID="0aa3fbed-d745-4519-a603-3c6f916e099d" CreationDate="2020-01-06T13:52:17.823" UserId="7532" Text="**Direct Answer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Access Point](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_nIZeEbAZY9VGD) has what you are looking for and should work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommended:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use any old access point if you purchase a separate switch. I recommend specifying that it is Gigabit and has the full bandwidth for all ports like [this one](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hOZeEbFXN8348). Then plug the connection to your router, the PC, and the access point all into the switch in your bedroom. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend this route because you can keep the switch for many years to come as you replace your router and AP with newer models. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using a Router:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically using the WAN port on your router will cause it to act as a Router, Switch, Access Point, NAT, and Firewall. However, you can disable these features and have it act as just an Access Point and Switch. You will need to look through the settings on your router and configure it to do so. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12660" RevisionGUID="fc22a48b-ec9c-4740-bd75-da4a87ea21de" CreationDate="2020-01-06T13:57:33.423" UserId="7532" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="**Direct Answer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Access Point](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_nIZeEbAZY9VGD) has what you are looking for and should work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Recommended:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use any old access point if you purchase a separate switch. I recommend specifying that it is Gigabit and has the full bandwidth for all ports like [this one](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hOZeEbFXN8348). Then plug the connection to your router, the PC, and the access point all into the switch in your bedroom. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend this route because you can keep the switch for many years to come as you replace your router and AP with newer models. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Using a second router:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically using the WAN port on your router will cause it to act as a Router, Switch, Access Point, NAT, and Firewall. However, you can disable these features and have it act as just an Access Point and Switch. You will need to look through the settings on your router and configure it to do so. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12636" RevisionGUID="1dfac5c2-1bd6-4d03-8eb9-a0107ac68013" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:35:42.780" UserId="835" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I just replaced my old Apple Cinema monitor (1680x1050) with an AOC curve gaming display (2560x1440).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current setup does not seem to enjoy pushing that many pixels on the screen, laggy and jerky, I had to reduce the game (fallout 76) resolution to be playable; but I'd like to upgrade to something that would let me play at full resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz  (Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P67A-UD4-B3 (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (PNY)&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: 447GB KINGSTON SUV500480G ATA Device (SATA-2 (SSD))&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Antec 1000w.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't remember the wattage on my Power Supply, but If I remember, I got one that was over-powered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know my motherboard is old and not really upgradable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade motherboard/cpu or upgrade gpu ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not certain what is the limiting factor here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12661" RevisionGUID="7207dd13-d7f2-4970-a3ef-2a29e8031afd" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:57:30.963" UserId="14194" Text="Under &#xA; - RS. 40,000&#xA; - core i5 8th gen&#xA; - branded laptop&#xA; - only for study purpose browing and learning &#xA; For online courses &#xA; &#xA;&#xA; &#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44365" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12661" RevisionGUID="7207dd13-d7f2-4970-a3ef-2a29e8031afd" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:57:30.963" UserId="14194" Text="Suggest laptops for students" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44366" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12661" RevisionGUID="7207dd13-d7f2-4970-a3ef-2a29e8031afd" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:57:30.963" UserId="14194" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12663" RevisionGUID="653d3bce-62c0-4d06-b898-2f72a8f416c3" CreationDate="2020-01-06T21:20:23.693" UserId="7911" Text="I am a music lover shopping for a new A/V computer. For twenty years (!!) I have been using an M-Audio &quot;Audiophile 2496&quot; PCI sound interface for recording from vinyl at home. I don't need any of the device's features except for its low noise floor. Now I am considering buying a small, passively cooled computer with no PCI bus, which all have audio interfaces onboard (and USB-C jacks for external audio devices which I would just as soon not buy).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my assessment long ago, as a rule built-in sound devices suffered too much crosstalk and background noise for recording purposes. My question is: has their noise floor meaningfully improved in the interim? Otherwise, I suppose that I am going to continue to need a third-party interface. Thank you in advance for any answers to this question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44371" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12663" RevisionGUID="653d3bce-62c0-4d06-b898-2f72a8f416c3" CreationDate="2020-01-06T21:20:23.693" UserId="7911" Text="Are any onboard sound interfaces finally good enough for recording?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44372" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12663" RevisionGUID="653d3bce-62c0-4d06-b898-2f72a8f416c3" CreationDate="2020-01-06T21:20:23.693" UserId="7911" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="4ed97087-746f-4164-bacc-1d5b2264ed24" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:34:23.903" UserId="14137" Text="Maybe I'll buy that Dell laptop. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I want to set it with the high capacity that Dell allow me to go without any issue. I don't want to try SSDs out of the specifications.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the manual's page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="4ed97087-746f-4164-bacc-1d5b2264ed24" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:34:23.903" UserId="14137" Text="What are the best SSDs to install in Dell G5 5590?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="4ed97087-746f-4164-bacc-1d5b2264ed24" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:34:23.903" UserId="14137" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="75d7896f-97ec-4560-bc41-3a08806b5211" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:37:05.220" UserId="14137" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are `Dell G5 5590` and `Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops. Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?&#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using these laptops.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="268fea5c-3501-44a1-8117-3ac693fc24b4" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:44:09.427" UserId="14137" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="Maybe I'll buy that Dell laptop. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I want to set it with the high capacity that Dell allow me to go without any issue. I don't want to try SSDs out of the specifications.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][1] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="a66b236f-5e0a-4ba2-b83a-b1795d605a92" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:50:28.067" UserId="14137" Comment="added 105 characters in body; added 1 character in body; added 19 characters in body" Text="Maybe I'll buy that Dell laptop. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip of each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I want to set it with the high capacity(storage and speed) that Dell allow me to go without any issue. I don't want to try SSDs out of the specifications.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][1] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="f683d4b3-405f-4f97-aba8-97b978fb1ed6" CreationDate="2020-01-07T03:04:12.523" UserId="14137" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip of each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I want to set it with the high capacity(storage and speed) that Dell allow me to go without any issue. I don't want to try SSDs out of the specifications.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][1] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="4cbd4f2e-1aa6-40f3-a5ff-a1ee0cedf5c6" CreationDate="2020-01-07T03:08:32.090" UserId="14137" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are **`Dell G5 5590`** and **`Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`**.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops. Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?&#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using these laptops.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="01f27f64-5754-447b-b080-0a61cc9a5636" CreationDate="2020-01-07T05:02:25.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12666" RevisionGUID="e50813fc-c089-4d36-924b-3dd01cbdca86" CreationDate="2020-01-07T06:05:48.263" UserId="14197" Text="Screen Twitching ?&#xD;&#xA;https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-IdeaPad-1xx-3xx-5xx-7xx/330S-15IKB-GTX1050-Display-is-twitching/m-p/4549906&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;10-17-2019 02:53 AM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;Suggest you uninstall VGA driver,&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1) (win+ x m), uninstall the Display adapter driver in device manager&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2) Updated the latest VGA driver in lenovo vantage online&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44384" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12667" RevisionGUID="022b9cb6-d28f-49ae-a146-1b01de81d87f" CreationDate="2020-01-07T07:48:58.010" UserId="14198" Text="I work for a non-profit in Europe that receives a lot of donations by check. For our fiscal records, we want to keep a scan of each check that comes in but with something that doesn't obstruct our workflow. Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I thought of the [ChefXpress CX30][1] but it doesn't work with regular scanning software (a proprietary protocol) and I can't seem to find software that works with it. There are solutions like Doxie and Epson doc scanners but I don't know how reliable they are and if they allow for scanning a bunch of docs at once.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.digitalcheck.com/product/remote-deposit-scanner-cx30/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44385" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12667" RevisionGUID="022b9cb6-d28f-49ae-a146-1b01de81d87f" CreationDate="2020-01-07T07:48:58.010" UserId="14198" Text="Device to quickly and cheaply scan checks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44386" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12667" RevisionGUID="022b9cb6-d28f-49ae-a146-1b01de81d87f" CreationDate="2020-01-07T07:48:58.010" UserId="14198" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12669" RevisionGUID="b5132604-ff5a-41e0-8c70-dc77caffe007" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:33:35.207" UserId="14199" Text="I'd like to get a separate small USB device that I can use to control my media player. Basically if it could send standard media keys, it would be good. It would stand on my desk, next to my keyboard which does not have media keys but which I otherwise like. Also, I don't want to spend a fortune on it - let's say, 20€ max. My OS is Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some options that would work:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * An explicit USB &quot;media keypad&quot; (haven't found anything like that)&#xD;&#xA; * A standard USB keypad with programmable keys&#xD;&#xA; * A USB device with at least 5 buttons which are programmable&#xD;&#xA; * Infrared/radio remote control&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What does not work:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Adding a standard numeric USB keyboard and remapping the keys in software. I still want the numeric keypad on my main keyboard to work as intended and on Windows it's impossible to remap the keys on a specific keyboard.&#xD;&#xA; * Making a software using [Interception](https://github.com/oblitum/Interception). That's what I'm using now, but it often glitches, to the point where sometimes my main keyboard is getting disabled entirely." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44391" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12669" RevisionGUID="b5132604-ff5a-41e0-8c70-dc77caffe007" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:33:35.207" UserId="14199" Text="Cheap USB keypad with media keys or programmable USB buttons" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44392" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12669" RevisionGUID="b5132604-ff5a-41e0-8c70-dc77caffe007" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:33:35.207" UserId="14199" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44393" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12670" RevisionGUID="a93ffe11-0ab4-49b0-a5e9-911cbe96479c" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:55:45.117" UserId="14200" Text="I need a module to server as a Bluetooth-UART/SPI bridge for an MCU, that has to have the  following characteristics:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Programmable&#xD;&#xA;2. Fast bring-up (a known manufacturer with straight-forward set-up and programming)&#xD;&#xA;3. Dual Mode - BLE / non-BLE&#xD;&#xA;4. non-BLE transfer rate of at least 3Mb/s&#xD;&#xA;5. UART / SPI transfer rate that will not be a bottleneck, so at least 4Mb/s&#xD;&#xA;6. example applications for serial connection over Bluetooth (so I can easily and reliably send and receive chunks of data between the MCU and a phone via the Bluetooth module)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44394" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12670" RevisionGUID="a93ffe11-0ab4-49b0-a5e9-911cbe96479c" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:55:45.117" UserId="14200" Text="Dual Mode Bluetooth (BLT/BLE) -To-UART Bridge Module Recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44395" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12670" RevisionGUID="a93ffe11-0ab4-49b0-a5e9-911cbe96479c" CreationDate="2020-01-07T09:55:45.117" UserId="14200" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12671" RevisionGUID="baf96114-c46b-484c-b0e8-b72855fe1489" CreationDate="2020-01-07T13:33:50.507" UserId="14204" Text="I'm a new (and currently the only) IT guy at a small company (around 20 employees). I'm looking to get a small server for our company so that we could manage access to shared storage and sync outlook tasks/calendars and maybe eventually do some light processing on it. We currently don't have a dedicated room for a server (as they are noisy) so we would need to put it in one of the offices. I was thinking of reusing a nice gaming rig and adding a bit of extra RAM to use as a server as we don't have very high demand for data processing and not many users at once. What sort of specs are recommended for running a Windows Server (mostly for Microsoft Exchange).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have any experience with building and running servers so sorry if I'm asking or saying something stupid.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44397" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12671" RevisionGUID="baf96114-c46b-484c-b0e8-b72855fe1489" CreationDate="2020-01-07T13:33:50.507" UserId="14204" Text="Small company server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44398" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12671" RevisionGUID="baf96114-c46b-484c-b0e8-b72855fe1489" CreationDate="2020-01-07T13:33:50.507" UserId="14204" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="027bc9ed-9f36-4ff5-a19e-7579754aaaa5" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:01:29.653" UserId="14137" Comment="added 531 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are **`Dell G5 5590`** and **`Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`**.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;*The following questions do not interest me now but I leave their here by its [importance][1]*:&#xA;&#xA; `Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?`&#xA;&#xA;**Ps**: take a look at the page 6 of the Samsung's Odyssey manual if its relevant to you and let me a comment about it.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;So, which of these two laptops is **better to run Linux distros setting multiple boot**? &#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using Linux alongside Windows in that specific laptops models.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/odyssey#manualsDownloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="84ef5023-ce18-4e28-a019-61e8a181d170" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:55.283" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag and fixed the text" Text="I've read that they are not so fast and also that reliability is a factor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My notebook is 8 years old now so I guess that all these new fast SSD memory technologies are useless for me, but I need something that will not break down (and I loose all my data). I need it for media, video and photo production.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I trust the Patriot brand?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44403" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="84ef5023-ce18-4e28-a019-61e8a181d170" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:55.283" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag and fixed the text" Text="Patriot P200 SSD for old Asus Zenbook" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44404" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="84ef5023-ce18-4e28-a019-61e8a181d170" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:55.283" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag and fixed the text" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44405" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12548" RevisionGUID="84ef5023-ce18-4e28-a019-61e8a181d170" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:55.283" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 6047, 57 edit id of 995" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="e702325a-dee0-43a1-ae45-e13776204453" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:59.290" UserId="4933" Comment="OP is looking for SATA solution and solution given is also SATA, SAS has no relevance here" Text="I’m looking for an affordable SATA PCIe controller card that I can use only PC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have 4 x 3TB 3.5” SATA hard drives and want to be able to use them on the new  card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have read a review of some cards and they say they only support up to 2TB disks. I’m trying to find out what I need to look for for the card to be able to handle big hard disk sizes. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations or advice while searching would be great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44407" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="e702325a-dee0-43a1-ae45-e13776204453" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:59.290" UserId="4933" Comment="OP is looking for SATA solution and solution given is also SATA, SAS has no relevance here" Text="SATA PCIe Controller Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44408" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="e702325a-dee0-43a1-ae45-e13776204453" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:59.290" UserId="4933" Comment="OP is looking for SATA solution and solution given is also SATA, SAS has no relevance here" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44409" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8125" RevisionGUID="e702325a-dee0-43a1-ae45-e13776204453" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:27:59.290" Comment="Proposed by 4933 approved by 6047, 57 edit id of 999" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44410" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12659" RevisionGUID="121a8c11-6549-499b-92b2-958a4e39ad28" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:28:01.900" UserId="1410" Comment="added 268 characters in body" Text="Thermal imaging is an example of infrared imaging science. Thermographic cameras usually detect radiation in the long-infrared range of the electromagnetic spectrum (roughly 9,000–14,000 nanometers or 9–14 µm) and produce images of that radiation, called thermograms. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44411" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12659" RevisionGUID="121a8c11-6549-499b-92b2-958a4e39ad28" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:28:01.900" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 57 edit id of 1013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44412" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ee38ff11-0902-46f7-9677-7177d7c9d9b0" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:28:05.870" UserId="10739" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44413" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1348" RevisionGUID="ee38ff11-0902-46f7-9677-7177d7c9d9b0" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:28:05.870" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by 6047, 57 edit id of 1010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12672" RevisionGUID="5f536884-2109-40d5-867c-dff7bd5d09f5" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:29:25.733" UserId="10648" Text="Some CPU models are only sold to OEMs in trays for building PCs, such as the i9-9900T in this case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many resellers selling CPUs from a tray, which MechEng has pointed out in their answer. So they are *technically* available to end-users but they are essentially 2nd-hand CPUs. Without sealed retail packaging, you might not be able to tell whether it has been installed in a system before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keep in mind that Intel's tray CPUs [are not covered by any warranty.](https://www.intel.ca/content/www/ca/en/support/articles/000024255/processors.html) The only support you will have for the CPU will be from the reseller, if any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44419" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="dc94b721-289b-43f8-b8ba-8c0b7f505c6c" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:37:10.850" UserId="14137" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are **`Dell G5 5590`** and **`Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`**.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;*The following questions interest me too so I leave their here by its [importance][1]*:&#xA;&#xA; `Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?`&#xA;&#xA;**Ps**: take a look at the page 6 of the Samsung's Odyssey manual if its relevant to you and let me a comment about it.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;So, which of these two laptops is **better to run Linux distros setting multiple boot**? &#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using Linux alongside Windows in that specific laptops models.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/odyssey#manualsDownloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44420" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="3277dc1e-ac60-473b-b5ea-734ee0cfb1ae" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:38:37.860" UserId="57" Text="I am looking to replace some cheap solar LED lamp post lights along my driveway, with an in ground lighting solution. I have a few requirements though:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must be hardwired to power, not solar powered. I am in the US, so it need to be compatible with the standard power grid here.&#xD;&#xA; - Must use something that is easily replaceable, should a light stop working. &#xD;&#xA; - Must be compatible with Google Assistant and/or [Home Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/) so that I can control it from an appropriate device&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like it to be multi-colored, so that I can adjust the color and brightness of the light based on time of year&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like it to be in ground, not small lamp posts. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is going to go along the driveway and I anticipate this will take 10-15 lights (based entirely off my solar light test). The driveway is approximately 50 feet in length.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget for the hardware is less than $500. Installation will be done by myself. This budget eliminates things like the Hue product line, because their outdoor lights are over $100 per light. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44421" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="3277dc1e-ac60-473b-b5ea-734ee0cfb1ae" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:38:37.860" UserId="57" Text="Outdoor, in ground, smart lighting solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44422" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="3277dc1e-ac60-473b-b5ea-734ee0cfb1ae" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:38:37.860" UserId="57" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44423" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12674" RevisionGUID="1d9d61a4-ce8b-4df2-a8d9-b8073bb6f1e1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:58:04.890" UserId="1776" Text="My PC has a clock speed of 2133 MHz. Can it work with a 2666 MHz memory module?  &#xD;&#xA;I have 2 DIMM slots. Are they compatible with UDIMM memory modules?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reference:  &#xD;&#xA;https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/ct2k32g4dfd8266&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44424" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12674" RevisionGUID="1d9d61a4-ce8b-4df2-a8d9-b8073bb6f1e1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:58:04.890" UserId="1776" Text="Need to know if a DDR4 SIMM is compatible with my computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44425" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12674" RevisionGUID="1d9d61a4-ce8b-4df2-a8d9-b8073bb6f1e1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:58:04.890" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44427" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="bddfbbf0-4cbe-4dff-8356-8146a51f40b8" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:12:05.830" UserId="14137" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip for each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I want to set it with the high capacity(storage and speed) that Dell allow me to go without any issue. I don't want to try SSDs out of the specifications.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][1] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44428" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="15c110bc-6f9f-4efd-ad36-8b493ff30ffb" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:14:02.210" UserId="14137" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are **`Dell G5 5590`** and **`Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`**.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;*The following questions interest me too so I leave their here by its [importance][1]*:&#xA;&#xA; `Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?`&#xA;&#xA;**Ps**: take a look at the page 6 of the Samsung's Odyssey manual if its relevant to you and leave a comment about it.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;So, which of these two laptops is **better to run Linux distros setting multiple boot**? &#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using Linux alongside Windows in that specific laptops models.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/odyssey#manualsDownloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44429" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12676" RevisionGUID="883d5e84-d532-4a42-a517-9bd76cb4afec" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:17:00.053" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Judging reliability of an SSD that hit the market less than a year ago is kind of difficult. And the actual question here (can I trust brand X) is much too broad to be answered conclusively. Patriot sells lots of different SKUs, at different price points, and for a different target audience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So let's rather have a closer look at the actual model you are interested in, the P200 SSD. Here is a test of the 1TB model: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/patriot-p200-1-tb-ssd/11.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While it mostly performs on par with similarly priced SSDs, It's biggest weakness is that it is a DRAM-less SSD. Which is why it struggles with intensive random read/write workloads. To a point where the difference becomes noticeable, even in real-world applications.&#xD;&#xA;If we take a look at the prices for the 500GB model, the difference between the P200 and for example a Crucial MX500 is only about 3€ in my part of the world. Add another 8€, and you can already afford a Samsung 860 Evo.&#xD;&#xA;In my personal opinion, the minimal price difference is not worth the potential performance difference for your applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;tl;dr: invest a little bit more, and get different SSD with DRAM cache" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44432" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="c4bdc26e-562f-4dd0-8835-91cb5454de22" CreationDate="2020-01-07T20:18:46.773" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/132651/egpu-for-work-environment-suggestions" />
  <row Id="44433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="af646008-c9ba-4060-8bb6-1f5f6fc3c55e" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:19:22.523" UserDisplayName="mahipundir" Text="My dear Humans,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my first ever&#xD;&#xA;I have a task to build a few high-end PCs for video rendering, what I was wondering it might be better to have an eGPU so whenever anyone needs to do rendering they can process via eGPU. The local environment is mixed Windows 10 and Mac.&#xD;&#xA;Adobe cloud &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.Multi-card slot eGPU ..?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.Best practice when deciding for eGPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions..? or advice would be mush appreciated &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lot's of love" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44434" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="af646008-c9ba-4060-8bb6-1f5f6fc3c55e" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:19:22.523" UserDisplayName="mahipundir" Text="eGPU for work environment suggestions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44435" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="af646008-c9ba-4060-8bb6-1f5f6fc3c55e" CreationDate="2020-01-07T17:19:22.523" UserDisplayName="mahipundir" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44438" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12518" RevisionGUID="1f129446-2bd9-44b3-8c2e-5bc7ad8910b9" CreationDate="2020-01-08T09:01:50.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44442" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12679" RevisionGUID="8c2ecc99-adac-4178-a798-fe2d71830d63" CreationDate="2020-01-08T14:30:00.240" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="While the other answers are technically correct, I would like to focus on the core of the question: we are dealing with an &quot;engineering course&quot;, and the laptop is supposed to be for &quot;learning purposes&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;I have been through engineering school, and also held similar courses myself. Nobody in their right mind would choose training examples that a modern integrated graphics solution like the UHD 620 could not handle. Hugely complex training examples would be detrimental to the learning curve, the PCs in the training rooms are often pretty old, and the vast majority of students is equipped with basic laptops, most of them with integrated graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in my opinion, a modern laptop with integrated graphics is perfectly adequate in the context outlined in the question. But I agree with one of the points made in the other answers: an MX130 is barely an upgrade compared to the UHD 620." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44443" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12674" RevisionGUID="a25fb503-fba1-4e5a-a9e6-1382d24ff21c" CreationDate="2020-01-08T15:11:26.120" UserId="1776" Comment="Added processor type." Text="My PC has a clock speed of 2133 MHz. Can it work with a 2666 MHz memory module?  &#xD;&#xA;I have 2 DIMM slots. Are they compatible with UDIMM memory modules?  &#xD;&#xA;My processor is an Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reference:  &#xD;&#xA;https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/ct2k32g4dfd8266&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44444" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12674" RevisionGUID="f58cab97-42fe-43f2-8ef5-30e9050dae02" CreationDate="2020-01-08T15:22:21.027" UserId="1776" Comment="Added hardware details" Text="My PC has a clock speed of 2133 MHz. Can it work with a 2666 MHz memory module?  &#xD;&#xA;I have 2 DIMM slots. Are they compatible with UDIMM memory modules?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My processor is an Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz.  &#xD;&#xA;BaseBoard Manufacturer: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.  &#xD;&#xA;BaseBoard Product: H110M-A/M.2  &#xD;&#xA;BaseBoard Version: Rev X.0x  &#xD;&#xA;BIOS: 19/09/2016 / UEFI&#xD;&#xA;SMBIOS Version: 3.0  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reference:  &#xD;&#xA;https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/ct2k32g4dfd8266&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12680" RevisionGUID="c0486421-1146-4b37-9c94-f189dba9a58e" CreationDate="2020-01-08T15:58:04.317" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="The memory you linked to will not work with your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the issue here is not the maximum memory frequency of 2666 MT/s. Pretty much all DDR4 memory has an SPD profile for DDR4-2133, because that is the common baseline for DDR4. If you put different DDR4-2666 into your system, it will be clocked at DDR4-2133.  &#xD;&#xA;The problem here is capacity: While your CPU could support a total of 64GB of RAM, your mainboard only supports up to 32GB of RAM total: https://www.asus.com/de/Motherboards/H110M-A-M-2/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;So the maximum amount of system memory you can use is 2x16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: also, UDIMM is the only type of memory you can use in your system. RDIMM and LRDIMM are not supported." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44447" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12680" RevisionGUID="a0febf8c-98b7-46fa-8153-9589c65fc290" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:03:32.897" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="The memory you linked to will not work with your hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the issue here is not the maximum memory frequency of 2666 MT/s. Pretty much all DDR4 memory has an SPD profile for DDR4-2133, because that is the common baseline for DDR4. If you put compatible DDR4-2666 into your system, it will be clocked at DDR4-2133.  &#xD;&#xA;The problem here is capacity: While your CPU could support a total of 64GB of RAM, your mainboard only supports up to 32GB of RAM total: https://www.asus.com/de/Motherboards/H110M-A-M-2/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;So the maximum amount of system memory you can use is 2x16GB, and not the 2x32GB you linked.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: also, UDIMM is the only type of memory you can use in your system. RDIMM and LRDIMM are not supported." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44448" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="beeb0c5c-93e7-4c21-9cb7-fecd007341bc" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:29:10.743" UserId="14137" Comment="added 638 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip for each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;The best options for storage are:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**M.2 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One M.2 solid state driver*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *PCIe NVMe 3x4 Class 40*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *Up to 1TB*&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**SATA 3 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One 2.5&quot; HDD*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *SATA(of course)*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *2TB(5400 RPM)*&#xA;&#xA;***I'll install two or even three different Linux distros in SATA's SSD so I need to know the best options for this specific usage, I'm doing some research about it yet so I may add important information later.***&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I don't like HDDs so I will replace it soon. I'd like and it's better to install less storage SATA SSD instead 2TB HDD. Unfortunately manual do not shows SSDs options for SATA. I have no idea what are the relationships between RPM and SSD's speed.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][1] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44449" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="beeb0c5c-93e7-4c21-9cb7-fecd007341bc" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:29:10.743" UserId="14137" Comment="added 638 characters in body; edited title" Text="What are the best(for me) SSDs to install in Dell G5 5590?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44450" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="79eef4ab-2343-4771-b719-93864637ce10" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:45:52.717" UserId="14137" Comment="added 124 characters in body; added 5 characters in body; edited body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip for each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;The best options for storage are:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**M.2 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One M.2 2280 solid-state driver*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *PCIe NVMe 3x4 [Class 40][1]*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *Up to 1TB*&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**SATA 3 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One 2.5&quot; HDD*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *SATA(of course)*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *2TB(5400 RPM)*&#xA;&#xA;***I'll install two or even three different Linux distros in SATA's SSD so I need to know the best options for this specific usage, I'm doing some research about it yet so I may add important information later.***&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I don't like HDDs so I will replace it soon. I'd like and it's better to install less storage SATA SSD instead 2TB HDD. Unfortunately manual do not shows SSDs options for SATA. I have no idea what are the relationships between RPM and SSD's speed.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][2] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/1529476-what-is-the-difference-among-class-10-class-20-and-class-40-ssds&#xA;  [2]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="872b2c34-e44a-49bd-be36-4a7609437abe" CreationDate="2020-01-08T16:55:25.097" UserId="14137" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip for each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;The best options for storage are:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**M.2 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One M.2 2280 solid-state driver*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *PCIe NVMe 3x4 [Class 40][1]*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *Up to 1TB*&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**SATA 3 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One 2.5&quot; HDD*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *SATA(of course)*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *2TB(5400 RPM)*&#xA;&#xA;***I'll install two or even three different Linux distros in SATA's SSD so I need to know the best options for this specific usage, I'm doing some research about it yet so I may add important information later.***&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I don't like HDDs so I will replace it soon. I'd like and it's better to install less storage SATA's SSD instead 2TB HDD. Unfortunately manual do not shows SSDs options for SATA. I have no idea what are the relationships between RPM and SSD's speed.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**: for a while I can't put an image of the [manual's][2] page where they recommend the SSDs to use. Stack exchange gives me an error `Sorry,something went wrong when trying to upload that image.Try again?`&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/1529476-what-is-the-difference-among-class-10-class-20-and-class-40-ssds&#xA;  [2]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44452" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12664" RevisionGUID="5e1743d0-0889-4f1d-9569-777bb86ef8d3" CreationDate="2020-01-08T17:01:38.123" UserId="14137" Comment="deleted 209 characters in body" Text="I'm going to buy a laptop and by now that Dell seems a good choice to me. Reading the manual,they let me in a doubt about which SSDs I need to buy when I upgrade it.&#xA;&#xA;Please, I'll install the two types available: M.2 and SATA 3. So,a tip for each of these would be better.&#xA;&#xA;The best options for storage are:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**M.2 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One M.2 2280 solid-state driver*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *PCIe NVMe 3x4 [Class 40][1]*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *Up to 1TB*&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;&#xA;&gt;**SATA 3 slot**&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- Form factor: *One 2.5&quot; HDD*&#xA;&gt;- Interface type: *SATA(of course)*&#xA;&gt;- Capacity: *2TB(5400 RPM)*&#xA;&#xA;***I'll install two or even three different Linux distros in SATA's SSD so I need to know the best options for this specific usage, I'm doing some research about it yet so I may add important information later.***&#xA;&#xA;**ADVICE**: I don't like HDDs so I will replace it soon. I'd like and it's better to install less storage SATA's SSD instead 2TB HDD. Unfortunately [manual][2] do not shows SSDs options for SATA. I have no idea what are the relationships between RPM and SSD's speed.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/1529476-what-is-the-difference-among-class-10-class-20-and-class-40-ssds&#xA;  [2]: https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/g-series-15-5590-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44453" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12681" RevisionGUID="fe8ab6ef-ac7c-4bfd-b79f-272eafb1fe78" CreationDate="2020-01-08T17:04:43.977" UserId="7532" Text="**Required Hardware:** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Exchange 2019 has 128 GB minimum recommended RAM size. [Source](https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/exchange/plan-and-deploy/system-requirements?view=exchserver-2019)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is going to be difficult to do with an old gaming rig. However, there are many services that you can set up on that hardware. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Getting Started:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend using that old gaming PC (if you already have one that is) to set up a linux environment and start running different services in VMs. This will net you some good experience and give you a good testing environment. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For anything major, you should move on to a service like AWS, Azure, or Google Cloud until you get a dedicated server space. Be aware that you may never need to move to having your own server space as these services are often more cost effective for your company. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44454" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12682" RevisionGUID="ee631f25-e90d-4b95-b843-ea85cdda0dee" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:09:17.453" UserId="7532" Text="What you are looking for does not yet exist **as a product**. You should expect to pay much more than that if you want a professional system that works with smarthome devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This system](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKB5921/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tPHfEbNDJCXQH) is very close to what you are asking for but it is not smart home compatible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, that doesn't mean you can't put something together yourself. You could use a [waterproof mount](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005GOGDCE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ckHfEb4M6H7HX) with [budget smart bulbs](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KYQ3W46/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_q7GfEbZ7Q9S04), or use [colored outdoor lights](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RTXHJLR/ref=emc_b_5_i) paired with a [smart power switch](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5TQSG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_dJHfEbPPDNDAN). (Recommendations for each inline.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="7f0cd92c-8cb1-458b-96c6-f4c0d3c6909e" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:34:51.410" UserId="14211" Text="So, I'm actually really surprised that I can't find anything on Google about this subject, so maybe I'm asking the wrong questions or maybe there really just isn't a lot of information out there on this subject, but I need to know if there are different varieties of glass that can be purchased for an Epson DS-50000 flatbed scanner, and what they are if there are variations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, I am looking for something a bit more scratch resistant than the standard glass that comes with the scanner.  The company I work for scans hundreds of slabbed comic books a day and I was looking to see if there was a type of glass we could order that would hold up to the hard plastic a bit longer before needing to be replaced.  I'm just a programmer.  I don't know how all these physical bits and bobs actually work.  Please help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="7f0cd92c-8cb1-458b-96c6-f4c0d3c6909e" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:34:51.410" UserId="14211" Text="What Types of Glass Are Used with Flatbed Scanners? (And are there good scratch-resistant options?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="7f0cd92c-8cb1-458b-96c6-f4c0d3c6909e" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:34:51.410" UserId="14211" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44458" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12684" RevisionGUID="80ff8715-fc61-44cc-b350-c55b53fa8785" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:58:56.913" UserId="7532" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apple recommends their own [Blackmagic](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMQT2VC/A/blackmagic-egpu-pro?afid=p238%7CszsbNc9dh-dc_mtid_1870765e38482_pcrid_282212353902_pgrid_52596618370_&amp;cid=aos-us-kwgo-pla-btb-3pp--slid---product-HMQT2VC/A). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the [Razer Core X Chroma](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q78VMPW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0lIfEbBJXPCAJ) and [ASUS XG-Station-PRO](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP36KHH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_emIfEbR7YPKJW) are very good options at a more reasonable price but please note that these are only enclosures. You will need to purchase the GPU separately. This gives you the ability to put any PCIe card in them so you can choose the card that fits your situation and upgrade later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should make sure that both your computer and your enclosure support Thunderbolt 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacOS only officially has support for AMD video cards. [Apple Support: eGPU](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208544) is a good read to prepare yourself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using multiple GPUs provides very little benefit in regular systems and in an eGPU you will be bottle-necked by the Thunderbolt connection and will not receive any benefit from a second card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12685" RevisionGUID="69fd1bc6-55d1-4fc9-a1f6-9f12e2da7561" CreationDate="2020-01-08T19:15:57.700" UserId="7532" Text="This [mini wireless keyboard](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Z81U3YY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QGIfEbJWNAEHX) is what I use. Its very cheep and lets me walk away from the computer. It has media buttons and requires no software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All dedicated media controllers that I know of are much more expensive. Example: [Stream Deck](https://smile.amazon.com/Elgato-Stream-Deck-Controller-customizable/dp/B06XKNZT1P/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=media+control+pc&amp;qid=1578510828&amp;sr=8-19)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44460" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12636" RevisionGUID="8f303154-d21a-4df2-9708-edd53fd4edc5" CreationDate="2020-01-08T19:36:24.010" UserId="835" Comment="updated most of my components to newer ones" Text="I just replaced my old Apple Cinema monitor (1680x1050) with an AOC curve gaming display (2560x1440).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current setup does not seem to enjoy pushing that many pixels on the screen, laggy and jerky, I had to reduce the game (fallout 76) resolution to be playable; but I'd like to upgrade to something that would let me play at full resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz  (Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology)&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P67A-UD4-B3 (Socket 1155)&#xD;&#xA;- Graphics: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (PNY)&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: 447GB KINGSTON SUV500480G ATA Device (SATA-2 (SSD))&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: Antec 1000w.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't remember the wattage on my Power Supply, but If I remember, I got one that was over-powered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know my motherboard is old and not really upgradable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrade motherboard/cpu or upgrade gpu ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not certain what is the limiting factor here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've bitten the bullet and upgraded most of my components: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Intel Core i5-9400F (with fan)&#xD;&#xA;- G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2x8GB)&#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE B365M DS3H LGA 1151 (300 Series) &#xD;&#xA;- GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44461" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="a2cda2b6-4c19-4b3a-8b08-d7555420694a" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:03:20.513" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12684" RevisionGUID="2f867eee-d6c3-4492-afad-71a0211f62db" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:05:14.210" UserId="7532" Comment="deleted 7 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;Apple recommends their own [Blackmagic](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMQT2VC/A/blackmagic-egpu-pro?afid=p238%7CszsbNc9dh-dc_mtid_1870765e38482_pcrid_282212353902_pgrid_52596618370_&amp;cid=aos-us-kwgo-pla-btb-3pp--slid---product-HMQT2VC/A). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the [Razer Core X Chroma](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q78VMPW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0lIfEbBJXPCAJ) and [ASUS XG-Station-PRO](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP36KHH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_emIfEbR7YPKJW) are very good options at a more reasonable price but please note that these are only enclosures. You will need to purchase the GPU separately. This gives you the ability to put any PCIe card in them so you can choose the card that fits your situation and upgrade later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should make sure that both your computer and your enclosure support Thunderbolt 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacOS only officially has support for AMD video cards. [Apple Support: eGPU](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208544) is a good read to prepare yourself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using multiple GPUs provides little benefit in regular systems and in an eGPU you will be bottle-necked by the Thunderbolt connection and will not receive any benefit from a second card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44463" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12684" RevisionGUID="89cdb672-5bc9-4eff-8d38-b732573e8c00" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:25:55.417" UserId="7532" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="Apple recommends their own [Blackmagic](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMQT2VC/A/blackmagic-egpu-pro?afid=p238%7CszsbNc9dh-dc_mtid_1870765e38482_pcrid_282212353902_pgrid_52596618370_&amp;cid=aos-us-kwgo-pla-btb-3pp--slid---product-HMQT2VC/A). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the [Razer Core X Chroma](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q78VMPW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0lIfEbBJXPCAJ) and [ASUS XG-Station-PRO](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP36KHH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_emIfEbR7YPKJW) are very good options at a more reasonable price but please note that these are only enclosures. You will need to purchase the GPU separately. This gives you the ability to put any PCIe card in them so you can choose the card that fits your situation and upgrade later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should make sure that both your computer and your enclosure support Thunderbolt 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacOS only officially has support for AMD video cards. [Apple Support: eGPU](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208544) is a good read to prepare yourself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Using multiple GPUs provides little benefit in regular systems and in an eGPU you will be bottle-necked by the Thunderbolt connection and may not receive any benefit from a second card. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12684" RevisionGUID="464a0345-9a7e-4e31-aee7-f02de92c629c" CreationDate="2020-01-08T21:19:55.283" UserId="7532" Comment="added 368 characters in body" Text="Apple recommends their own [Blackmagic](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMQT2VC/A/blackmagic-egpu-pro?afid=p238%7CszsbNc9dh-dc_mtid_1870765e38482_pcrid_282212353902_pgrid_52596618370_&amp;cid=aos-us-kwgo-pla-btb-3pp--slid---product-HMQT2VC/A). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the [Razer Core X Chroma](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q78VMPW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0lIfEbBJXPCAJ) and [ASUS XG-Station-PRO](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP36KHH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_emIfEbR7YPKJW) are very good options at a more reasonable price but please note that these are only enclosures. You will need to purchase the GPU separately. This gives you the ability to put any PCIe card in them so you can choose the card that fits your situation and upgrade later. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should make sure that both your computer and your enclosure support Thunderbolt 3. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;MacOS only officially has support for AMD video cards. [Apple Support: eGPU](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208544) is a good read to prepare yourself. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can purchase [multiple slot enclosures](https://eshop.macsales.com/item/AKiTiO/3N2AA0002Y/?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=shoppingengine&amp;utm_campaign=googlebase&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAmNbwBRBOEiwAqcwwpdBga4xhuvvvXVc9OoL_8NZgG13agD1GqefLDJzXtS-W-1pP0E3ZqhoCNO8QAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds) but you are likely to run into bandwidth issues over the Thunderbolt connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As suggested by @Romen, you could purchase duplicate enclosure/GPU sets. These could be used separately by different users, or together on one computer (if you have multiple Thunderbolt ports). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12686" RevisionGUID="67072c60-1c0b-44b1-8597-2e18a6d1923b" CreationDate="2020-01-08T22:00:49.700" UserId="7532" Text="**Industrial:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cisco offers products with this capability: [4G Routers](https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/solutions/enterprise-networks/4g-lte-solutions/index.html#~tab-selectproduct). I have personally used their products to build similar configurations. There are many industrial products like this from Cisco and others. They can meet all of your requirements but they are quite pricey. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Consumer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MXKfEbY07GTZ2) is a product that is built to act as a backup to a [DSL modem](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046TRVR6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_OdLfEbKVM8T0A) and stand between it and your [router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ddLfEb28XWP58). *Personally, I would recommend this setup with the three devices I linked inline and build them into an enclosure for portability.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also plenty of 4G modem, router, access point combos but these will need a seperate DSL modem. [This one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X497NZB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_wYKfEbEJP9AJB) also has a WAN port that could be paired with a regular modem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DIY:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could pair a Raspberry Pi with a [4G module](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PSGKWT5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RZKfEbYZ2T6KT) and then cofigure it however you like and change as needed. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44466" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12686" RevisionGUID="9c2e455d-dd86-41e5-8f43-a58037ba3da9" CreationDate="2020-01-08T22:06:06.930" UserId="7532" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="**Industrial:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cisco offers products with this capability: [4G Routers](https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/solutions/enterprise-networks/4g-lte-solutions/index.html#~tab-selectproduct). I have used their products to build similar configurations. There are many industrial products like this from Cisco and others. They can meet all of your requirements but they are quite pricey. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Consumer:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MXKfEbY07GTZ2) is a product that is built to act as a backup to a [DSL modem](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046TRVR6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_OdLfEbKVM8T0A) and stand between it and your [router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ddLfEb28XWP58). *Personally, I would recommend this setup with the three devices I linked inline and build them into an enclosure for portability.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are also plenty of 4G modem, router, access point combos but these will need a seperate DSL modem. [This one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X497NZB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_wYKfEbEJP9AJB) also has a WAN port that could be paired with a regular modem. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**DIY:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could pair a Raspberry Pi with a [4G module](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PSGKWT5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RZKfEbYZ2T6KT) and then cofigure it however you like and change as needed. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44467" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="8d54c530-2151-43a3-a345-67c6f5a08a2f" CreationDate="2020-01-08T23:03:05.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12687" RevisionGUID="a1f89053-f427-4232-a414-29a4d5093a8b" CreationDate="2020-01-08T23:52:16.123" UserId="7532" Text="The only good system I know of that you haven't already listed is [Nokia Beacon](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PDNBVHC/). They have done some good work in the mesh department. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ubiquiti has a great overall system. They have good customer service and they offer many other networking products that integrate nicely you could drop in to your network later on. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12689" RevisionGUID="1b9774e0-4f4b-4a37-a9a8-b2a6c41469dd" CreationDate="2020-01-09T00:39:33.590" UserId="7532" Text="Most wearables have this functionality. The Charge 3 performs this function well. It will vibrate when the phone rings and show you who is calling and when you get a text. It has good range over Bluetooth. If you are willing to spend more, you can get more features from a Samsung or Apple smart watch. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12690" RevisionGUID="c291f528-bd09-4338-9766-afd0f5029492" CreationDate="2020-01-09T01:09:45.627" UserId="7532" Text="I run AoE2 DE on integrated graphics (the graphics built into the cpu of my laptop) and it runs fine. However, that does not work well for games like Reach. You will want to buy a dedicated GPU. The RX 570 has a very good price to performance ratio. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12691" RevisionGUID="d6535655-40ae-446e-9133-60cac994170c" CreationDate="2020-01-09T01:24:40.207" UserId="7532" Text="I recommend the [Archer AX10](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wifi-AX1500-Smart-Router/dp/B07ZSDR49S/). It has bandwidth control and is a very well priced Wifi 6 router. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wifi 6 (802.11ax) is the newest standard. Most of the routers out there are still on Wifi 5 (802.11ac) or lower.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is important to note that setting bandwidth limits will allow you regulate each device's max speed, but this will likely cause more problems than it solves. While your speed will be slower, you will likely not decrease your overall usage. Typically, your router is fairly good at balancing the load on each of your devices and it is better not to set hard rules like this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check with your ISP to see what your data cap is. They may have a better way to track where you are in your usage for that pay period. However, unless you are on satellite internet, your data cap is usually high enough you do not need to monitor it. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44475" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12692" RevisionGUID="133c2801-7038-493b-a88d-9fb7f4aaa54a" CreationDate="2020-01-09T14:16:41.090" UserId="9560" Text="On criterias from the question (almost) any notebook in this price category will be fine for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But you can check for example HP Elitebook 840 G2, Lenovo IdeaPad Slim. At least in European market it is hard to find i5 for 500 euro. Actually you do not need i5 to watch training videos and browse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12693" RevisionGUID="e5e9e364-1a83-42ec-b536-23ac969a756e" CreationDate="2020-01-09T15:35:23.537" UserId="13572" Text="Are you open to tinkering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DIY boards like the [Arduino Leonardo][1] have processors with native USB support.&#xD;&#xA;You could hook up your own buttons and program it however you'd like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Arduino_BoardLeonardo" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12694" RevisionGUID="b93c4ee3-793f-40a3-903f-c2ca669d82b1" CreationDate="2020-01-09T16:35:45.907" UserId="10648" Text="Halo Reach [is not a very demanding game](https://www.tweaktown.com/news/68515/halo-reach-pc-4k-60fps-requires-core-i5-geforce-gtx-770/index.html). Probably because it was built and optimized for the Xbox 360's GPU, which was released in 2005! 2D games like Age of Empires are *much* less demanding than Halo Reach too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure whether your $150 budget is just for a GPU or an entire upgrade; I have to assume just the GPU because an entire upgrade would cost much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to buy a new CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [AMD Ryzen 5 3400G](https://www.amd.com/en/products/apu/amd-ryzen-5-3400g) CPU has integrated graphics.  &#xD;&#xA;It can achieve [53 to 69 FPS at 1080p](https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/software/halo_reach_pc_performance_review_with_amd_ryzen_apu_testing/5) on Halo Reach.  &#xD;&#xA;Technically buying this CPU means you'd be spending $0 on a GPU if you accounted for buying a CPU anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are just buying a GPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider the NVIDIA GTX 1050, 1050 Ti, or the AMD RX 560, RX 570. These four cards are around the $150 - $250 price range. The RX 570 is particularly good value (FPS per $) if you can catch it on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just want to run Age of Empires for as cheap as possible, practically any integrated graphics should be able to handle it. So if you have *any* video output at all on a PC, it's probably good to go at $0 cost to you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44478" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12694" RevisionGUID="61ae8b7b-3506-4bde-adc9-8c9959fae907" CreationDate="2020-01-09T16:41:27.913" UserId="10648" Comment="added 98 characters in body" Text="Halo Reach [is not a very demanding game](https://www.tweaktown.com/news/68515/halo-reach-pc-4k-60fps-requires-core-i5-geforce-gtx-770/index.html). Probably because it was built and optimized for the Xbox 360's GPU, which was released in 2005! 2D games like Age of Empires are *much* less demanding than Halo Reach too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure whether your $150 budget is just for a GPU or an entire upgrade; I have to assume just the GPU because an entire upgrade would cost much more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you're going to buy a new CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [AMD Ryzen 5 3400G](https://www.amd.com/en/products/apu/amd-ryzen-5-3400g) CPU has integrated graphics.  &#xD;&#xA;It can achieve [53 to 69 FPS at 1080p](https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/software/halo_reach_pc_performance_review_with_amd_ryzen_apu_testing/5) on Halo Reach.  &#xD;&#xA;Technically buying this CPU means you'd be spending $0 on a GPU if you accounted for buying a CPU anyways.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are just buying a GPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consider the NVIDIA GTX 1050, 1050 Ti, or the AMD RX 560, RX 570. These four cards are around the $150 - $250 price range. The RX 570 is particularly good value (FPS per $) if you can catch it on sale.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just want to run Age of Empires for as cheap as possible, practically any integrated graphics should be able to handle it. It's a remaster of a very old game, and the higher resolution does not add much work for the GPU. So if you have *any* video output at all on a PC, it's probably good to go at $0 cost to you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12696" RevisionGUID="c2b919b8-a3b3-45a2-91b9-eb62e27855af" CreationDate="2020-01-09T20:00:51.740" UserId="14191" Text="I have a 55' Samsung Q6FN. It's a QLED TV. It has everything you listed except for 3D.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The current model is the Q70R. It costs around 1.2k USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check out the RTINGS review for this TV.&#xD;&#xA;https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/q70-q70r-qled" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44483" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="7e43afbb-35f7-4069-b235-920d3d0bdb80" CreationDate="2020-01-09T20:20:14.477" UserId="14188" Comment="added a TLDR" Text="Finding a USB hub that does what I need is more challenging than I expected!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fundamental issue here is that the laptop (Dell Latitude 7400 2-in-1) gets very hot when it's charging. So hot that the fans quickly kick in at 8000 RPM, even when the CPU is fixed at low clock speeds. They're really loud and make crazy buzzing noises.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I have some musical devices that I'd like to plug in all at once: 2 or 3 MIDI controllers and a USB audio interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the audio interface needs a decent amount of power, so I got this fancy little USB-C hub with a downstream PD input that powers the hub along with the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In theory, this should work great, but the buzzing 8000 RPM fan is messing with my peace when I'm trying to work on music.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the problem is that after unplugging the charger from the downstream PD input on the hub, it doesn't provide enough power to the all of the devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a USB-C hub that takes power from upstream power delivery and supplies full power to a bunch of USB-A ports, ideally at least 4 of them. I wouldn't mind if the thing also had HDMI or a downstream USB-C port, but it's not totally necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TLDR:** There are lots of USB-C hubs that are fully powered from downstream PD sources, but I'm looking for one that can offer full power to its USB ports via an _upstream_ PD source..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44484" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12697" RevisionGUID="a6c3ed5e-d036-4251-8a85-1d68533afc5c" CreationDate="2020-01-10T00:04:09.770" UserId="14213" Text="I have a 4k monitor which has both a usb-c input and a HDMI input. However, the HDMI input does not support 4k, only the USB-C does. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using the Macbook Pro 2015 13-inch Retina which has 2 Mini Displayports that should be able to output 4K. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are USB-C to Mini Displayport adapters out there but they seem to be intended to be used from USB-C output to Mini Displayport monitor and not the way I would need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More information about the monitor can be found here (I also got the Hub):&#xD;&#xA;https://cforcedesign.com/collections/frontpage/products/cf015c-4k-ultra-slim-portable-display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44485" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12697" RevisionGUID="a6c3ed5e-d036-4251-8a85-1d68533afc5c" CreationDate="2020-01-10T00:04:09.770" UserId="14213" Text="Mini Displayport out to USB-C Monitor (4K)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44486" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12697" RevisionGUID="a6c3ed5e-d036-4251-8a85-1d68533afc5c" CreationDate="2020-01-10T00:04:09.770" UserId="14213" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12699" RevisionGUID="3ef724b2-eac0-4d33-97d9-439851d9830d" CreationDate="2020-01-10T13:04:31.733" UserId="4299" Text="I am searching for a networkcable analyser for CAT5e to CAT6 STP cables, 100Mbit/s and 1Gbit/s speeds.&#xD;&#xA;We are making the connectors ourselfes and it comes to problems from time to time and I need an analyser which can measure Q (and other important parameters) where I just have to plug in the RJ45 connectors. The two ends are about 10 meters apart from each other. Plus points for a batterie operated device, but it's not a must have.&#xD;&#xA;Up until now, I made the measurement with wireshark and a stress test and had a look for retransmission and so on, but I am not interested in a post problem analysis." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44492" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12699" RevisionGUID="3ef724b2-eac0-4d33-97d9-439851d9830d" CreationDate="2020-01-10T13:04:31.733" UserId="4299" Text="Networkcableanalyser RJ45" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44493" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12699" RevisionGUID="3ef724b2-eac0-4d33-97d9-439851d9830d" CreationDate="2020-01-10T13:04:31.733" UserId="4299" Text="&lt;cable&gt;&lt;test-equipment&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12701" RevisionGUID="7276cc22-8854-4967-9582-51856293c173" CreationDate="2020-01-10T15:31:38.357" UserId="7532" Text="Going from Displayport to USB-C does not really work because while USB-C contains Displayport, the same is not true in reverse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the ports on the Macbook Pro 2015 are techinically Thunderbolt 2, so what you are looking for boils down to this question you can find on the Apple Stackexchange. [Is Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 possible?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/278078/is-thunderbolt-2-to-thunderbolt-3-type-c-possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This adapter](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207266) is bidirectional. So you can use it to do what you are asking, **if the CForce hub supports it**. If it does not, you may be able to find a different hub that will allow you to make the conversion. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44499" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12701" RevisionGUID="b2584500-c763-4e55-ad6c-83f4716b6377" CreationDate="2020-01-10T16:44:37.533" UserId="7532" Comment="Clarification of spec" Text="Going from Displayport to USB-C does not really work because while USB-C contains Displayport, the same is not true in reverse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the ports on the Macbook Pro 2015 are techinically Thunderbolt 2, so what you are looking for boils down to this question you can find on the Apple Stackexchange. [Is Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 possible?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/278078/is-thunderbolt-2-to-thunderbolt-3-type-c-possible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This adapter](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207266) is bidirectional. So you can use it to do what you are asking, **if the CForce hub supports full Thunderbolt 3**. If it does not, you may be able to find a different hub that will allow you to make the conversion. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12702" RevisionGUID="713e2eac-2053-4718-b4c5-1402213b8c97" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:19:40.567" UserId="14218" Text="I live in a region where I don't have the luxury to have my radio channels of choice on the FM band, but I am addicted to waking up with the chatter of the radio. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know of any well-designed alarm clock that treats internet radio streams the same way the other alarm clocks treat FM radio? Namely, being able to use internet radio presets as the morning alarm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I don't want a bedside computer, but rather a simple product like [Wakey][1] minus FM plus internet radio. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.soundcore.com/products/variant/wakey/A3300121" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44509" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12702" RevisionGUID="713e2eac-2053-4718-b4c5-1402213b8c97" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:19:40.567" UserId="14218" Text="Alarm Clock streaming internet radio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44510" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12702" RevisionGUID="713e2eac-2053-4718-b4c5-1402213b8c97" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:19:40.567" UserId="14218" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;alarm-clock&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44512" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12703" RevisionGUID="21e6c14f-605c-4f42-9d98-03e26465facc" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:21:10.953" UserId="10878" Text="**Computer Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitor: LG 23&quot; WX235V &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel i3-9100F&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: Radeon RX570&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ram: 16gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Samsung EVO 970 500gb M.2 Nvme&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am mainly going to play Player unknown's battleground (PUBG) and currently I have a monitor by LG and I feel the colors are bad and only has a 59Hz refresh rate with a 23&quot; display that caps at 1080p. I am not sure but I would say the sweet spot is a 27&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am eye-ing a 144Hz monitor with a IPS panel and preferably supports 1440p. But I am not sure if my current specs can even handle games at a larger resolution and higher refresh rate so it is also nice to get feedback on this aspect given my GPU is a mid range one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some brands like HKC where I see locally that are very cheap but I always question these kinds of really affordable brands even when specs are good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hopefully eyeing a monitor in the price budget of ideally $200 with a maximum of $250 &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44513" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12703" RevisionGUID="21e6c14f-605c-4f42-9d98-03e26465facc" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:21:10.953" UserId="10878" Text="What is a good and affordable 27&quot; 1440p and 144 Hz monitor that the given specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44514" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12703" RevisionGUID="21e6c14f-605c-4f42-9d98-03e26465facc" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:21:10.953" UserId="10878" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44515" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12704" RevisionGUID="0d515d24-b86a-4200-a643-db805f6de977" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:24:14.153" UserId="14220" Text="I bought last year a brand new WorkCentre 3225 mainly to scan postcards. (front/back) manually. I have noticed that after several scans 10-15, at the time that I pressed the button No on the screen meaning that I don't want to do other scans, the files were not saved on my pc. I also couldn't connect to the user again because I got `Not available`. I tried to rename the user, disable/enable it without luck. The only sollution that it worked was to reinstall the printer again. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically there isn't a fixed number of scans set and if I do more it will crash. I will never know when to stop in orders the files to get saved on my pc. Recently the scans that I can do is lower. Basically I can do 1 or 2 scans and if I do more it will crash again. So the process is, make 1 scan, type that I don't want to scan anything else, the file is saved on my pc and after that I start the process again of scanning. If I do 3-4 scans I have to reinstall my printer because the user gets blocked. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is very frustrating because I had this issue from the beginning, it doesn't seem to be a issue only with this printer, I tend to think that all of the printers same model has this issue and nobody did that much scans to find out about this. Probably most of the peoples use this for printing mainly and don't do many scans.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is, what options do I have? Anybody had this issue? Found a fix? What I can say for sure is that I won't buy any other Xerox Workcentre item anymore in this life." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44516" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12704" RevisionGUID="0d515d24-b86a-4200-a643-db805f6de977" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:24:14.153" UserId="14220" Text="Xerox WorkCentre 3225 not saving scans after several scans made" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44517" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12704" RevisionGUID="0d515d24-b86a-4200-a643-db805f6de977" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:24:14.153" UserId="14220" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12703" RevisionGUID="a4424f87-7704-43b7-a621-0cb8f82c7d15" CreationDate="2020-01-11T19:36:27.983" UserId="10878" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="**Computer Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitor: LG 23&quot; WX235V &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processor: Intel i3-9100F&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: Radeon RX570&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ram: 16gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Storage: Samsung EVO 970 500gb M.2 Nvme&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am mainly going to play Player unknown's battleground (PUBG) and currently I have a monitor by LG and I feel the colors are bad and only has a 59Hz refresh rate with a 23&quot; display that caps at 1080p. I am not sure but I would say the sweet spot is a 27&quot; monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am eye-ing a 144Hz monitor with a IPS panel and preferably supports 1440p. But I am not sure if my current specs can even handle games at a larger resolution and higher refresh rate so it is also nice to get feedback on this aspect given my GPU is a mid range one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some brands like HKC where I see locally that are very cheap but I always question these kinds of really affordable brands even when specs are good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hopefully eyeing a monitor in the price budget of ideally $200 with a maximum of $250 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the budget is too low perhaps a 1080p monitor with 27&quot; size and 144 Hz?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44519" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12703" RevisionGUID="8600d493-772d-45f1-ad80-f3d2030b0b29" CreationDate="2020-01-11T23:10:19.043" UserId="10878" Comment="edited title" Text="What is a good and affordable 27&quot; 1080p and 144 Hz monitor that the given specs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12706" RevisionGUID="ba08a9ef-68f4-4caf-858d-c05a6306f89d" CreationDate="2020-01-12T21:58:24.740" UserId="14221" Text="I'm looking for a dock that will allow my gf and I to connect 2 HDMI monitors and 2 USB mouse/keyboard devices to both a Macbook Air (2015) with thunderbolt 2 and a modern dell laptop with thunderbolt 3. Also charging capability for the laptop would be ideal, although I'm aware this probably isn't possible with the macbook over thunderbolt 2 -&gt; 3 conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thought was to buy a dock that supports tb3, for the dell and then use a tb2 -&gt; tb3 adapter to connect the macbook to the dock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-MacBook-Surface-Devices-Bi-Direction/dp/B07ZD3B89T/ref=asc_df_B07ZD3B89T/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Display-Docking-Charging-Thunderbolt/dp/B07Z53139N/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this even work? What would be our cheapest option here?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44526" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12706" RevisionGUID="ba08a9ef-68f4-4caf-858d-c05a6306f89d" CreationDate="2020-01-12T21:58:24.740" UserId="14221" Text="Dock recommendation for Macbook Thunderbolt2 and Dell Thunderbolt 3 laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44527" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12706" RevisionGUID="ba08a9ef-68f4-4caf-858d-c05a6306f89d" CreationDate="2020-01-12T21:58:24.740" UserId="14221" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12706" RevisionGUID="1bdb5673-43ce-4348-8320-9994e298e663" CreationDate="2020-01-12T22:21:11.443" UserId="14221" Comment="added 200 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a dock that will allow my gf and I to connect 2 HDMI monitors and 2 USB mouse/keyboard devices to both a Macbook Air (2015) with thunderbolt 2 and a modern dell laptop with thunderbolt 3. The laptops would not be connected at the same time, I just want the capability to dock either one. Also charging capability for the laptop would be ideal, although I'm aware this probably might not be possible with the macbook over thunderbolt 2 -&gt; 3 conversion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thought was to buy a dock that supports tb3, for the dell and then use a tb2 -&gt; tb3 adapter to connect the macbook to the dock.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macbook (TB 2) ---&gt; Converter (tb2 -&gt; tb3) -----&gt; TB3 Dock&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AND:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell TB3 (TB3) ----&gt; TB3 Dock&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-MacBook-Surface-Devices-Bi-Direction/dp/B07ZD3B89T/ref=asc_df_B07ZD3B89T/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Display-Docking-Charging-Thunderbolt/dp/B07Z53139N/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this even work? What would be our cheapest option here?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44530" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="3d7ab320-57ef-401b-a7ef-c2a40b7a198e" CreationDate="2020-01-13T03:03:20.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44531" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="ce403630-d19c-4fec-b1ef-6ed6f3691c3d" CreationDate="2020-01-13T04:04:45.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44535" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="22f7a117-cca2-430d-b690-7f3deaf959c6" CreationDate="2020-01-13T06:03:20.440" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12708" RevisionGUID="6778cfbf-793e-42d1-9d3d-498c28ad6889" CreationDate="2020-01-13T10:41:54.957" UserId="13572" Text="The monitor I use mostly fits your description:&#xD;&#xA;The AOC C27G1.&#xD;&#xA;It's a very nice VA panel and supports DDC-CI and FreeSync. There's also the CQ27G1, which is 1440p at 27&quot;, rather than the C27G1's 1080p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whether your system will be sufficient to achieve decent framerates mostly depends on the games you'll play and what settings you want to play them at." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12710" RevisionGUID="1d48dd17-fb7b-4870-a8ed-cd5f7ce636b5" CreationDate="2020-01-13T15:31:27.947" UserId="7532" Text="The [adapter you linked](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZD3B89T) is not bi-directional, and may not work for your application. [This adapter](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207266) is bi-directional and should work for your application. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [dock you linked](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z53139N) is a good choice. I think it will work well for you. Because you asked for a cheaper option, you can use a dongle with power passthrough instead of a &quot;dock.&quot; [Here is one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8V3SLM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UUihEbH2P5RC6) that has the ports you asked for. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44541" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12710" RevisionGUID="19301440-842e-4f37-9b6e-83a482a49688" CreationDate="2020-01-13T15:39:07.057" UserId="7532" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="The [adapter you linked](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZD3B89T) is not bi-directional, and may not work for your application. [This adapter](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207266) is bi-directional and should work for your application. *Note: This adapter does not allow power pass-through, so you will need to have the dock or dongle connected to its own power for this to work.* &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [dock you linked](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z53139N) is a good choice. I think it will work well for you. Because you asked for a cheaper option, you can use a &quot;dongle&quot; with power passthrough instead of a &quot;dock.&quot; [Here is one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8V3SLM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UUihEbH2P5RC6) that has the ports you asked for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12711" RevisionGUID="fbc048d9-f490-4d3d-9ecc-cd9e7824d318" CreationDate="2020-01-13T15:46:55.620" UserId="7532" Text="I have looked into doing the same thing. The solution I found is a bit more DIY but it has all of the capabilities you are asking and more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [Raspberry Pi](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07TD42S27/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_XcjhEbM1KC87V) and [7in Touchscreen](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YHVFWBM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_W.ihEb3QD2ZFC). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44544" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12661" RevisionGUID="e78bd724-2088-49e4-b15d-f98ab34aac8f" CreationDate="2020-01-13T18:27:47.413" UserId="7556" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44548" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12704" RevisionGUID="610be7d8-78a0-4a39-a7ff-8c10f691840d" CreationDate="2020-01-13T18:36:01.243" UserId="7556" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12712" RevisionGUID="d1b71750-103a-48b9-a945-c2348099fdcb" CreationDate="2020-01-13T19:05:44.700" UserId="7556" Text="# Fluke/NetAlly - $400 - $3000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fluke's units are considered the gold standard, particularly the LinkRunner, LinkSprinter, and CableIQ. However, they're also extremely expensive, with prices ranging from ~$400 for the LinkSprinter 300 to ~$3000 for the LinkRunner G2. Used units are also a good option if you don't want to pay quite the price; their solid construction means buying used is a perfectly good option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Pocketethernet - $180&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you don't want to drop quite that much cash, the Pocketethernet is a solid unit that, when connected to a phone, provides much the same features for €167.23. Their app isn't the most polished, but hey, even the pricy units aren't too pretty, and it works quite well. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# NF-308 - $40&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really don't want to spend too much money, FS offers a basic unit that can do the job, as long as you don't need to much from it. For some reason, a rebrand of the same unit appears to be offered by Monoprice for slightly less than FS sells it, as the &quot;Monoprice Professional Coaxial, RJ-45, RJ-11/12, BNC, and USB Multifunction Tester with LCD Display&quot;. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12713" RevisionGUID="59af9a45-13b0-4d0c-a819-d7790bc1ec1c" CreationDate="2020-01-13T19:34:02.953" UserId="7556" Text="# Micro B (3.0) &lt;-&gt; A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though I cannot personally vouch for the integrity of any of these cables, [StarTech](https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10ft-Slim-Micro-Cable/dp/B00S2N2L5E), [C2G](https://www.cablestogo.com/product/54176/1m-usb-3.0-a-male-to-micro-b-male-cable-3.3ft), [Cable Matters](https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7T78H0), and [Tripp-Lite](https://www.cdw.com/product/tripp-lite-10ft-usb-3.0-superspeed-device-cable-a-male-to-micro-b-male-10ft/2157135) are all fairly reputable manufactures who produce cables that fit your description.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Micro B (3.0) &lt;-&gt; C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are no cables of this length that I would be comfortable recommending. Per the @USBCGuy spreadsheet, the only cable in this category I'd be comfortable recommending is this [AmazonBasics](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Micro-B-Gen2-Cable/dp/B01GGKYJG8/) 0.9m one, which otherwise meets your requirements." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12714" RevisionGUID="aad5e954-4760-4165-9481-5f6cdc794bcf" CreationDate="2020-01-14T06:25:54.550" UserId="14227" Text="I am looking for an audio switch for a 3.5mm headset. There seem to be tons of options (e.g. [this](https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/)) for a normal 3.5mm stereo switch, but they all do not support microphones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44554" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12714" RevisionGUID="aad5e954-4760-4165-9481-5f6cdc794bcf" CreationDate="2020-01-14T06:25:54.550" UserId="14227" Text="3.5mm audio switch/selector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44555" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12714" RevisionGUID="aad5e954-4760-4165-9481-5f6cdc794bcf" CreationDate="2020-01-14T06:25:54.550" UserId="14227" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12715" RevisionGUID="1f45053c-62b6-4790-a1c3-647fcf0a6997" CreationDate="2020-01-14T08:14:56.037" UserId="1873" Text="There's a large number of splitters/combiners for one to two 3.5mm Jack's available on the market. If you can't find a single switch then you might get a splitter, a combiner and two switches. While a bit of a kludge, this solution will work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44557" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12716" RevisionGUID="83cdf2c2-cea6-4d62-815a-190466a41d7b" CreationDate="2020-01-14T09:06:21.700" UserId="7556" Text="# NVMe drive: ADATA SX8200 or HP EX950 (ideally on better sale)&#xD;&#xA;**(unless you're a student in which case WD all the things)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since we're targeting the high end but still want reasonable, we probably want a nice TLC drive, and can afford to drop a some money on a good controller—especially since we're looking at a relatively high capacity boot drive. So, for now, we'll keep ourselves restricted to [SMI SM2262/SM2262EN](https://www.anandtech.com/show/13759/comparing-adata-sx8200-pro-vs-hp-ex950), Samsung, and WD based drives. If you want a Phison E12 controller would probably do just fine, but hey, we've got a little budget. Basically, we're targeting the high end of the midrange value/performance desktop options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this point, it's largely just a value contest based on who's on a slightly better sale so we can extract the best value. The following is arranged in an order of generally increasing performance/price:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [Mushkin Pilot-E](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JHxbt6/mushkin-pilot-e-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mknssdpe1tb-d8): Previously as low as $130, but currently at $150. Slower sibling the Pilot doesn't seem to be on sale anymore, and is thus not recommended.&#xD;&#xA;- [ADATA SX8200 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zR3H99/adata-sx8200-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-asx8200pnp-1tt-c)/[S11 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qBCD4D/adata-xpg-gammix-s11-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-agammixs11p-1tt-c): Has previously gone as low as $105, but is currently at $150. Slower sibling the SX8200 non-Pro/S11 (SMI SM2262) hasn't seen too many great sales.&#xD;&#xA;- [HP EX950](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PyhKHx/hp-ex950-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-5ms23aaabc): Was at around $125 throughout December, but is now back up to $140. It's slightly slower brethren, the EX900 and EX920, have seen some sales if you want to step down a tier or two.&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston KC2000: Has never been price competitive. Not recommending.&#xD;&#xA;- [Intel 760p](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KVfhP6/intel-760p-series-1tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ssdpekkw010t8x1): Hasn't seen much in the way of sales. Was briefly at $160 but is currently at $200. Not recommending.&#xD;&#xA;- [WD SN750](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QQrmP6/western-digital-sn750-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-wds100t3x0c): Was down at $130 between December and January, but is back up to its normal price of $150. However, Western Digital does offer a 15% student discount, which, if you're eligible, makes it extremely price competitive.&#xD;&#xA;- [Samsung 970 EVO](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JLdxFT/samsung-970-evo-10tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-mz-v7e1t0baw): Currently sitting at $170. Has seen (rarely) as low as $135, but not super great value at this price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# 2.5&quot; SATA drive: WD Blue, Team T-Force Vulcan, or Samsung 860 EVO (ideally on better sale)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you said you want to install OSs to this drive, not just use it as storage, we'll forego a more budget-oriented setup with the fast NVMe drive as a cache and this as more mass-storage in favor of a faster SSD. This time, we'll be looking at the Marvell 88SS1074, SMI SM2258/SM2259, and Samsung.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [SanDisk Ultra 3D](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FLDJ7P/sandisk-ultra-3d-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-sdssdh3-1t00-g25): Has previously hit $100, currently at pretty stable at $110.&#xD;&#xA;- [WD Blue](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GTCD4D/western-digital-blue-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-wds100t2b0a): Has previously hit $80, currently $110. Again, student discount could make the difference here.&#xD;&#xA;- [Crucial MX500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1): $105 right now, has seen as low as $90.&#xD;&#xA;- [Lexar NS200](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tQXnTW/lexar-ns200-960-gb-25-solid-state-drive-lns200-960rbna): Previously hit $80 with Google Express coupon, but otherwise, has maintained its price of $100.&#xD;&#xA;- [Team T-Force Vulcan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/q6ndnQ/team-t-force-vulcan-1-tb-25-solid-state-drive-t253tv001t3c301): Previously hit $85, currently at $110.&#xD;&#xA;- Intel 545s: 1TB version no longer readily available, not recommending.&#xD;&#xA;- Kingston KC600: No longer readily available, not recommending.&#xD;&#xA;- [Samsung 860 EVO](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yzfhP6/samsung-860-evo-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-mz-76e1t0bam): Has previously hit $100, but is currently at $150." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44558" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="ae80d188-3049-4e34-b680-ae32a5ddd348" CreationDate="2020-01-14T09:44:46.433" UserId="14230" Text="I would like to know whether we can record audio in PC using wireless headsets(inbuilt mic) which use bluetooth for connectivity. I am casting doubt because I read that they can be used only for calls not for audio recording (not talking about call recording because it's confusing). Also, I would like to know the quality difference between the audio recorded in wired one vs wireless one. Moreover, are wireless headsets generally compatible with all BIG 3 OS:- Windows, Android and iOS ?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44559" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="ae80d188-3049-4e34-b680-ae32a5ddd348" CreationDate="2020-01-14T09:44:46.433" UserId="14230" Text="Can we record audio in PC using wireless headsets(inbuilt mic)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44560" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="ae80d188-3049-4e34-b680-ae32a5ddd348" CreationDate="2020-01-14T09:44:46.433" UserId="14230" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44561" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="6891c2fd-b5db-4533-a8ec-e449387bb75c" CreationDate="2020-01-14T10:20:32.260" UserId="14230" Comment="edited title" Text="Can we record audio in PC (not Android) using wireless headsets(inbuilt mic)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44562" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="6891c2fd-b5db-4533-a8ec-e449387bb75c" CreationDate="2020-01-14T10:20:32.260" UserId="14230" Comment="edited title" Text="I would like to know whether we can record audio in PC (again, not Android) using wireless headsets(inbuilt mic) which use bluetooth for connectivity. I am casting doubt because I read that they can be used only for calls not for audio recording (not talking about call recording because it's confusing). Also, I would like to know the quality difference between the audio recorded in wired one vs wireless one. Moreover, are wireless headsets generally compatible with all BIG 3 OS:- Windows, Android and iOS ?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44563" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12718" RevisionGUID="29305392-8e23-4372-a59e-4fc343653936" CreationDate="2020-01-14T11:23:07.837" UserId="14232" Text="I have a program that sends data to a USB port in order to configure connected device. I have been wondering if it's possible to copy a single signal to multiple devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, this program sends specified data to `COM1`. I'm wondering if there's an USB cable that would be interpreted as `COM1` and could be connected to multiple devices on the other end, essentially mirroring received data to all of them?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44564" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12718" RevisionGUID="29305392-8e23-4372-a59e-4fc343653936" CreationDate="2020-01-14T11:23:07.837" UserId="14232" Text="USB cable that would mirror USB signals to multiple devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44565" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12718" RevisionGUID="29305392-8e23-4372-a59e-4fc343653936" CreationDate="2020-01-14T11:23:07.837" UserId="14232" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12619" RevisionGUID="73c4a840-326d-4126-937e-110b34293c6a" CreationDate="2020-01-14T11:26:40.500" UserId="14175" Comment="added 745 characters in body" Text="First of all I don't know much about networking. So I will try to elaborate my question as much as I can. I have a limited broadband connection with 21 mbps of download speed. There are 4 devices connecting wirelessly to the router and 1 desktop computer connected via a LAN cable. Since I have a limited amount of data per month, I want to limit the bandwidth seperatly among those devices as follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. LAN - Desktop - Maximum 8 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 2. WIFI - Laptop - Maximum 8 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 3. WIFI - Smartphone 1 - Maximum 2 mbps &#xD;&#xA; 4. WIFI - Smartphone 2 - Maximum 2 mbps&#xD;&#xA; 5. WIFI - Smartphone 3 - Maximum 2 mbps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm using a cheap router given by my ISP and it doesn't support bandwidth controlling. I'm still not sure even this is possible so I would appreciate if anyone can suggest me a router for home use which can fulfill my need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I ended up getting a TP-Link router (TD-W8968). It can easily be configured with IPTV and there is a seperate WIFI access point for guest users which allows to assign limited bandwidth for all the guest users. So I decided to connect all the mobile devices via its guest access point  and my desktop and laptop with prioritized minimum and maximum bandwidth limits. Now I've noticed that the internet speed is not consistent all the time. I've set the guest account bandwidth to 2mbps  but most of the time I'm getting only around 400-500kbps. sometimes it's just stops working. @Alphy13 Maybe you're right, maybe I am setting so many rules or maybe I've messed up the router settings due to lack of knowledge about networking." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44568" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12720" RevisionGUID="da9b79b2-6719-4b35-bb5d-e2e7d3edd25d" CreationDate="2020-01-14T15:26:38.903" UserId="5440" Text="This sounds like doing what you are looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[**Nobsound Little Bear MC1023 2-Way Audio Microphone Headset Speaker MIC Switcher Headphone Switch Hub Volume Control Controller Selector 3.5mm RCA**][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/3a8rWuX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12721" RevisionGUID="cde21b0e-040d-4675-a2fc-a782a0aa2cc2" CreationDate="2020-01-14T15:32:18.097" UserId="5440" Text="The company **Ocean Digital** seems to have several devices like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [**Ocean Digital Wi-Fi Internet Radios WR828F FM Receiver with Airmusic Control APP &amp; Sleep Radio- for Sleeping &amp; Relaxation Alarm Clock Stereo Dual Speaker with USB Port**][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [**Ocean Digital WiFi/FM Internet Radio WR230S Alarm Clock Radio with Bluetooth Receiver &amp; Ethernet Port, Stereo Speakers, Line Out, Aux in, 20,000+ Stations, 2.4&quot; Color Display- Black in Wooden Case**][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/35QQNzZ&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/2soAYmx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44570" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="32de649b-a4cd-4444-a27a-b36fa3a34020" CreationDate="2020-01-14T18:02:41.893" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/679/what-is-a-good-off-the-shelf-tablet-or-open-frame-device-that-runs-or-can-run-an" />
  <row Id="44571" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="b2b1acf5-0ffe-431f-964b-ef068047af74" CreationDate="2020-01-14T08:34:00.460" UserId="14228" Text="Question copied from [Android Enthusiasts][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for an Android touch screen device that would make a good UI for a Kiosk/POS terminal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system will be locked down and should run a reasobably recent Android release (ideally Android 7+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either the device should have ongoing manufacturer support so that future android releases are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the possibility of 'bake your own' where there is good community support for building stock android for the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it will be built into a kiosk, it could be an open frame design or some sort of tablet, ideally rugged as it will get a lot of use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen size about 14&quot; but larger is ok.  Fancy features not needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW: The tag below is meaningless but this site requires one and I can't add any despite having a large rep on other SE sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/679/what-is-a-good-off-the-shelf-tablet-or-open-frame-device-that-runs-or-can-run-an" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44572" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="b2b1acf5-0ffe-431f-964b-ef068047af74" CreationDate="2020-01-14T08:34:00.460" UserId="14228" Text="What is a good off the shelf tablet or open-frame device that runs or can run Android for use as a Kiosk/POS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44573" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="b2b1acf5-0ffe-431f-964b-ef068047af74" CreationDate="2020-01-14T08:34:00.460" UserId="14228" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="4fa8b0d2-9d7a-4b6f-8acc-9d6dde2968df" CreationDate="2020-01-14T18:04:22.770" UserId="60" Comment="Changed tags, removed incorrect link" Text="I'm looking for an Android touch screen device that would make a good UI for a Kiosk/POS terminal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The system will be locked down and should run a reasobably recent Android release (ideally Android 7+)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either the device should have ongoing manufacturer support so that future android releases are available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or the possibility of 'bake your own' where there is good community support for building stock android for the device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it will be built into a kiosk, it could be an open frame design or some sort of tablet, ideally rugged as it will get a lot of use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Screen size about 14&quot; but larger is ok.  Fancy features not needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44575" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12722" RevisionGUID="4fa8b0d2-9d7a-4b6f-8acc-9d6dde2968df" CreationDate="2020-01-14T18:04:22.770" UserId="60" Comment="Changed tags, removed incorrect link" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44579" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12724" RevisionGUID="cc166d9c-7003-4bf9-bf67-3a52155f6252" CreationDate="2020-01-15T04:37:53.453" UserId="7556" Text="Based on the product you linked and your aversion to &quot;bedside computers&quot;, I selected alarms with a similar rear-projection type display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Echo Dot (3rd gen) with clock - $45&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Luckily for you, Amazon has an upcoming version of the Alexa-equipped Echo Dot that meets all the requirements. It's got a dimmable display, all the normal Alexa bells and whistles (including Bluetooth and Hue integration), and supports musical alarms with TuneIn, SiriusXM, and iHeartRadio (and if you have a change of heart and and decide to switch to to a streaming service, Amazon Music, Spotify, and Pandora.) Best of all, like all rest of the Echo line, it's quite cheap (as the hardware costs are subsidized by Amazon.) Unfortunately, they won't be back in stock until March 1st, 2020, but as long as you're willing to wait, it's a pretty solid box.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Sony S50G - $200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want better sound quality, prefer Google Assistant to Alexa, or just don't want to be quite so basic, Sony sells the SG50. Just like the Echo Dot, it's got Bluetooth, a dimmable display, and all the fancy bells and whistles that come with Google Assistant, including support for TuneIn, SiriusXM, and iHeartRadio (and again, Google Play Music, YouTube Music, Spotify, and Pandora.) Do note that there have been some (not super widespread?) [reports of issues](https://piunikaweb.com/2019/06/07/google-home-radio-alarms-not-working-for-many-company-aware/) with internet radio on Google Assistant though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOH69.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ci3fl.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12725" RevisionGUID="0025dfe2-86ec-47f8-adf1-783b4d00e2fb" CreationDate="2020-01-15T05:06:20.677" UserId="7556" Text="# No, but there are alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sorry for the short answer, but unfortunately, USB just doesn't work like this. Because of... [protocol reasons](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Communications)#Signaling_(USB_PHY)) that we won't dive into [here](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/236983/how-does-a-usb-hub-work), USB doesn't have anything really resembling this capability. The closest you'll get is a standard hub or KVM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, what does exist are **serial splitters.** Since it appears that all you're doing is using a COM port, what you could do is use a USB -&gt; serial adapter, split the serial port into several serial ports, convert the serial back to USB (or whatever you'd like), and proceed to plug those into whatever target computers you're using. If that sounds like one too many adapters, StarTech even the [ICUSB2324](https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Serial-Cards-Adapters/4-Port-USB-to-RS232-Adapter~ICUSB2324), a convenient USB to quad serial adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there's a reason we don't all have USB and serial splitters plugged into our computers. There's almost always a better way of doing things, unless you're working with specialized, legacy hardware. Networking and virtual serial ports exist for a reason, and you're almost certainly better off using one of those. Without more info on your application I can't really say that with 100% certainty, but it's probably true." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="4187b629-feeb-4270-bc7b-77a5ea6fddf5" CreationDate="2020-01-15T07:04:29.823" UserId="14234" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15 ay122ne (8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics) but I dont know if it has m2 ssd support &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does this model support m2 ssd ?&#xD;&#xA;- Is it better to use HDD and m2 ssd combined &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or is it better to use only a 2.5&quot; ssd alone &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or use m.2 ssd alone ?&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44582" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="4187b629-feeb-4270-bc7b-77a5ea6fddf5" CreationDate="2020-01-15T07:04:29.823" UserId="14234" Text="m.2 vs ssd which is better" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44583" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="4187b629-feeb-4270-bc7b-77a5ea6fddf5" CreationDate="2020-01-15T07:04:29.823" UserId="14234" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44584" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="29dba2f7-5fb0-4b5d-a015-2f9268a5bc6b" CreationDate="2020-01-15T07:16:14.957" UserId="14234" Comment="added 21 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15 ay122ne (8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics) but I dont know if it has m2 ssd support &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does this model support m2 ssd ?&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, Is it better to use HDD and m2 ssd combined &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or is it better to use only a 2.5&quot; ssd alone &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or use m.2 ssd alone ?&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44585" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="17addeb9-0159-4bc1-8cac-e4120d145dc6" CreationDate="2020-01-15T07:31:42.427" UserId="14234" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15 ay122ne (8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics) but I dont know if it has m2 ssd support &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does this model support m2 ssd ?&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, Is it better to use HDD and m2 ssd combined &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or is it better to use only a 2.5&quot; ssd alone &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or use m.2 ssd alone(would this increase battery life also) ?&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12727" RevisionGUID="0c52b5c6-4a6f-411b-9847-844216fa6dcb" CreationDate="2020-01-15T08:37:48.037" UserId="13572" Text="According to [Intels manual for you laptop][1], it does support an M.2 drive, but only one using SATA and not NVMe.&#xD;&#xA;The performance difference compared to a conventional 2.5&quot; SATA will be minimal.&#xD;&#xA;The illustrations seem to depict that you can only use *either* an M.2 SATA SSD, or a 2.5&quot; SATA drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDDs won't bring any performance advantage. M.2 vs 2.5&quot; SSDs will also be close, though 2.5&quot; SSDs tend to be cheaper for the same capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, according to the same manual, you laptop seems to only have a single memory slot, and lists 8 GB, 4 GB and 2 GB modules as compatible. A single 16 GB module *may* work, but there's not offical guarantee it will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05087748" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="c5e5e2a2-2ff5-45c2-a2bb-99f54608c95d" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:13:21.843" UserId="14234" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15 ay122ne (i7-7500U 8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics) but I dont know if it has m2 ssd support &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following questions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Does this model support m2 ssd ?&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, Is it better to use HDD and m2 ssd combined &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or is it better to use only a 2.5&quot; ssd alone &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or use m.2 ssd alone(would this increase battery life also) ?&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44588" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12727" RevisionGUID="621978b9-711e-4c62-b49b-139c01984ea4" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:38:43.233" UserId="13572" Comment="mistaken about memory module numbers" Text="According to [Intels manual for you laptop][1], it does support an M.2 drive, but only one using SATA and not NVMe.&#xD;&#xA;The performance difference compared to a conventional 2.5&quot; SATA will be minimal.&#xD;&#xA;The illustrations seem to depict that you can only use *either* an M.2 SATA SSD, or a 2.5&quot; SATA drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDDs won't bring any performance advantage. M.2 vs 2.5&quot; SSDs will also be close, though 2.5&quot; SSDs tend to be cheaper for the same capacity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, according to the same manual (pg. 31), you laptop seems to have two memory slots, and lists 8 GB, 4 GB and 2 GB modules as compatible. That would allow you to upgrade to 2x8 GB modules.&#xD;&#xA;Single (or dual) 16 GB modules *may* work, but there's not offical guarantee they will.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05087748" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44589" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12728" RevisionGUID="d29979b2-0e9f-4ec3-a803-1197b8363ced" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:40:28.153" UserId="14234" Text="My Toshiba Satellite L755 has a HD resolution screen, so I want to upgrade it a Full HD resolution panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible and how do I even search for such a panel...links to amazon.in or aliexpress would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44590" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12728" RevisionGUID="d29979b2-0e9f-4ec3-a803-1197b8363ced" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:40:28.153" UserId="14234" Text="Toshiba Satellite L755 screen upgrade" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44591" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12728" RevisionGUID="d29979b2-0e9f-4ec3-a803-1197b8363ced" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:40:28.153" UserId="14234" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44592" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12728" RevisionGUID="90fb1bae-31a3-4442-9526-4eb785b4eab1" CreationDate="2020-01-15T10:45:35.590" UserId="14234" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="My Toshiba Satellite L755 has a HD resolution screen, so I want to upgrade it a Full HD resolution panel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible and how do I even search for such a panel(like does it have different no. of pins, etc ?)...links to amazon.in or aliexpress would be appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12730" RevisionGUID="a265b7b6-913b-4234-bdf5-01f0945d7277" CreationDate="2020-01-15T15:16:00.323" UserId="14235" Text="I have a USB-C screen ([Lenovo ThinkVision P27H](https://www.lenovo.com/de/de/accessories-and-monitors/monitors/professional/P27h-10A16270QP127inch-Monitor-HDMI/p/61AFGAT1EU)) which I want to connect my laptop to, so that I just need one wire for charging and video.&#xD;&#xA;The screen also features a USB hub, which is why I would like to connect my USB mouse and keyboard to the screen, so that I _really_ just need one wire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here comes the problem: I want to run a desktop PC with the same screen (but not simultaneously), and this PC also uses the same mouse and keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, what I'm looking for is a solution that allows me to use my peripheries on both machines _without plugging in and out_ my mouse and keyboard everytime.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The screen only features one upstream USB port, which is the USB-C one. My desktop doesn't have a USB-C port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought about something like a USB-C switch, or more like a &quot;splitter&quot; (one USB-C in, two USB-C out) that I can connect to the screen. Then I could connect my laptop to this switch, as well as a USB-C to USB-3 adapter to talk to my desktop PC. My hope is that this enables me to use the USB hub of the screen no matter which device I'm currently using." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44598" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12730" RevisionGUID="a265b7b6-913b-4234-bdf5-01f0945d7277" CreationDate="2020-01-15T15:16:00.323" UserId="14235" Text="How to connect USB peripheries to USB Hub on monitor and desktop PC without unplugging?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44599" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12730" RevisionGUID="a265b7b6-913b-4234-bdf5-01f0945d7277" CreationDate="2020-01-15T15:16:00.323" UserId="14235" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44602" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12732" RevisionGUID="7bdff0e7-92a7-41dc-aa64-aecce8293659" CreationDate="2020-01-15T18:27:26.453" UserId="7556" Text="# USB-C KVM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The product you're describing does exist... kind of. However, because it's a niche product, there are only really two implementations I'm aware of—both of which are very expensive and don't really do quite what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## US3310 - $200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Though the exact branding and seller varies, there are at least two ([1](https://www.kvm-switches-online.com/us3310.html), [2](https://www.iogear.com/product/GUD3C04/)) identical versions of this hub for sale. It features two switchable USB-C connections (with power passthrough), two USB-A in, one HDMI 1.4 out, and a USB-C power port. Notice the HDMI out: while this will work just fine, you'll have to drive your monitor off HDMI—not USB-C. This means that you won't be able to use the USB hub in the monitor without a second adapter to plug it in to the USB plugs on the front. Eugh.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Black Box - $300&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, we've got two switchable USB-C connections, several USB-A in, and a DisplayPort out. Again, we've got the same issue, where you'd need an adapter to use the hub in the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Standard KVM + Hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option to keep the single-cable functionality is just to have your laptop connect to a USB-C hub, which then breaks out into a &quot;standard&quot; display interface and USB, then runs into a KVM. Is this discarding one of the key features of your monitor? Yes. Is it cheaper and cleaner than getting a USB-C KVM? Maybe, depends on your idea of cleanliness. But it's almost certainly cheaper. Depending on what specs you end up deciding you want, you can get a hub for about $30 and a KVM for about $40. If you choose to go this route, I can definitely make some more specific suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Software KVM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Through the power of networking and software, you could get most of the functionality of these hardware solutions with almost none of the hassle. Using something like [Synergy](https://symless.com/synergy), you can share your mouse and keyboard over the network. However, since this would require the laptop to be plugged in, even when you're using the desktop, I'm going to assume this is probably a no-go. Further, other USB devices aren't shared, so if you wanted to (for example) plug in a USB drive, you wouldn't be able to use the hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Just buying a different monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is probably going to sound really stupid, and in a certain sense, it is. However, it's also probably the cleanest, nicest way to get what you're looking for. Currently, several monitors offer built-in KVMs and USB-C, with convenient switching between them. Are they all more expensive than the P27H? Yes. But will they also offer a lot of other benefits, including greater resolution, size, or color accuracy (depending on the model)? Yes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I won't go too in depth into each monitor right now—again, if you decide this is the right path for you, I'll be happy to help more—but here's a quick overview.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Philips 499P9H - $850&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**48.4&quot;, 5120 x 1440 @ 70 Hz, VA**&#xD;&#xA;**2x HDMI, 1x DP, 2x USB-C, 2x USB-C hub, Ethernet, headphone jack**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Philips 346B1C - $440&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**34&quot;, 3440x1440 @ 100 Hz w/ FreeSync, VA**&#xD;&#xA;**1x DP, 1x HDMI, 1x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Samsung CJ890 - $770&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**43.4&quot;, 3840 x 1200 @ 120 Hz, VA**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1x HDMI, 1x DP, 2x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub, headphone jack**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Dell U3419W - $750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**34.1&quot;, 3440 x 1440 @ 60 Hz, IPS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2x HDMI, 1x DP, 1x USB-C, 2x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Dell U3219Q - $750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**31.5&quot;, 3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz, IPS**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1x DP, 1x HDMI, 1x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ52D.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAORZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HdRdE.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HfKU.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqJIz.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRli.png&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWH6H.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44603" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="dec4feb9-92e7-4bb7-a006-856787c950ad" CreationDate="2020-01-15T18:28:56.917" UserId="7556" Comment="104" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44604" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12733" RevisionGUID="e0705ae9-9a81-4239-af1e-14c371219059" CreationDate="2020-01-16T01:27:20.923" UserId="7673" Text="I love that I can get 10,000 impressions in my HP LaserJet printer using a $20 toner cartridge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a large format printer (it may be used, it may be new) but my biggest concern is the price of the ink.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm strongly inclined to base my printer purchase decision solely (more or less) on the cost of the ink.  Are there any large format printers specifically designed to provide low cost printing (i.e. inexpensive ink)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44605" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12733" RevisionGUID="e0705ae9-9a81-4239-af1e-14c371219059" CreationDate="2020-01-16T01:27:20.923" UserId="7673" Text="Are there large format (inkjet) printers with affordable ink options?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44606" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12733" RevisionGUID="e0705ae9-9a81-4239-af1e-14c371219059" CreationDate="2020-01-16T01:27:20.923" UserId="7673" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="88f387ac-61eb-4aa4-8cd6-371114c4b7a5" CreationDate="2020-01-16T04:37:22.870" UserId="14234" Comment="deleted 85 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HP 15 ay122ne (i7-7500U 8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, Is it better to use HDD and m.2 ssd combined &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or is it better to use only a 2.5&quot; ssd alone &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  or use m.2 ssd alone(would this increase battery life also) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44608" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="9dacf858-7abf-4e22-ada0-4d1eb65c2783" CreationDate="2020-01-16T04:50:50.047" UserId="14234" Comment="deleted 102 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my HP 15 ay122ne (i7-7500U 8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, which is better, a 2.5&quot; SSD or m.2 SSD ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12734" RevisionGUID="595031d1-97a5-4c16-90a3-487efb442313" CreationDate="2020-01-16T11:42:47.683" UserId="11113" Text="I am looking for a single-board-computer with the following requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- performance is not too important&#xD;&#xA;- must support modern Linux (Debian)&#xD;&#xA;- 2 (better 3) RS-232 interfaces&#xD;&#xA;- availability of a compact case with RS-232 9-pin holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would find many embedded PCs from industrial hardware manufactors with casing but the lifetime of that is only a few years. Afterwards they only have new boards and new cases.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would love to use a RasperryPI. It is longtime available and cheap.&#xD;&#xA;But the problem is the RS-232 in conjunction with the case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44611" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12734" RevisionGUID="595031d1-97a5-4c16-90a3-487efb442313" CreationDate="2020-01-16T11:42:47.683" UserId="11113" Text="SBC with RS-232 (&gt;= 2) and a case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44612" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12734" RevisionGUID="595031d1-97a5-4c16-90a3-487efb442313" CreationDate="2020-01-16T11:42:47.683" UserId="11113" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12735" RevisionGUID="2059f37e-e84a-4f48-98e7-3b3ff87818ac" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:05:17.090" UserId="6395" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy a Bluetooth distance tracker so that whenever  my laptop is more than _n_ feet distant from my Android phone the phone rings. I do not need GPS location, crowd finding etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is today Bluetooth technology ready for this?   &#xD;&#xA;I read some Amazon reviews and it seems that, since Bluetooth connection is not stable, phone apps beep randomly due to Bluetooth signal drops or, even worse, there is long delay before the phone alerts you have left your stuff behind, so that you are warned when you have already got off the train, plane etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12735" RevisionGUID="2059f37e-e84a-4f48-98e7-3b3ff87818ac" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:05:17.090" UserId="6395" Text="Bluetooth Proximity Trackers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12735" RevisionGUID="2059f37e-e84a-4f48-98e7-3b3ff87818ac" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:05:17.090" UserId="6395" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;asset-tracking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="31e40058-819e-4e93-97ad-b97c8b33b71b" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:28:35.850" UserId="14237" Text="For a prototype, I need to use a MP3 player that meet these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Loops a .mp3 file forever when turned on&#xD;&#xA; - Can be plugged into a wall (no need to replace batteries)&#xD;&#xA; - Have a 3.5mm or 6.35mm audio output&#xD;&#xA; - If possible starts playing as soon as I plug it into the wall i.e no need to press the play button, select a playlist to play, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought of purchasing one of these old MP3 devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmcV7.png&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ670.jpg&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6HLW.png&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I'm not sure it meets all of the above conditions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="31e40058-819e-4e93-97ad-b97c8b33b71b" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:28:35.850" UserId="14237" Text="Need an audio player that loops forever" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="31e40058-819e-4e93-97ad-b97c8b33b71b" CreationDate="2020-01-16T18:28:35.850" UserId="14237" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="1cbab7c2-40e4-4368-8851-049fa1670569" CreationDate="2020-01-17T00:00:55.093" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44620" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="0f462c9a-3e96-4fd9-89bb-3a6778f7dae7" CreationDate="2020-01-17T01:02:00.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12737" RevisionGUID="76cdc47e-b1d1-452b-9c3b-3a7ff4fe3f87" CreationDate="2020-01-17T07:32:55.707" UserId="7556" Text="# Well yes, but actually no&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From a software standpoint, I personally think the polish for Bluetooth location trackers has reached a point that it can be considered mature enough for &quot;everyday&quot; use. I personally don't have a ton of experience with them, but from what I have done and do know, they're in a good place.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem is that *all* of these Bluetooth trackers use what's known as  Received Signal Strength Indicator (RSSI.) Basically what this does is measure the signal strength and (along with some fancy things), uses the basic assumption that signal strength falls off as a function of distance to approximate the distance away. **This is why an unstable (or too stable) connection or random signal drops due to interference leads to poor performance. This is inherent to the way that these trackers works.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a better way of tracking though: Time of Flight (ToF.) Since signals travel at a known speed (~the speed of light), this property can be used to accurately track distance, independent of signal strength (and therefore independent of any interference.) This is the way that GPS, [802.11v](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11v), and many other technologies work. If you lose your Apple Watch (if it's not GPS equipped), it can relatively accurately locate itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, [Bluetooth is fundamentally incapable of accurately using this technology.](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/310368/is-it-possible-to-calculate-the-time-of-flight-between-two-bluetooth-devices) The problem is the Bluetooth bandwidth. Bluetooth operates between 2.402 GHz and 2.4800 GHz, (plus a 2 MHz bottom and 3.5 MHz top guard band), split into 79 channels of 1 MHz each. Speed of light / 1 MHz ≈ 300m (it's slightly more complicated than this, but close enough for our purposes.) This is so ridiculously inaccurate as to be completely impractical. Of course, it is possible to do better by averaging multiple runs and some of the newer features of Bluetooth, as done in [this paper](https://hal.inria.fr/hal-01995171/document), but the fundamental restrictions of Bluetooth remain in place. With infinite time, would the law of large numbers end up getting you pretty good data? Sure. But at a more reasonable number of samples? Well, it's not really any better than RSSI. And at that point, why bother? Getting the RSSI value is so trivially easy that a middle schooler can (and has) done it. And if you're creating a product, how many people are really going to go through the trouble of, say, posting a question on a hardware recommendation forum? How many people who read an Amazon listing will know the difference between RSSI and ToF, much less care?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not like good location technology is out of reach anyways though. Like I said before, the Apple Watch simply uses more bandwidth, and thus can locate itself more accurately. It's not really a hard problem to solve from a technical standpoint. The issue is one of adoption: we've all got convenient little Bluetooth gadgets, everyone knows what they are, the market is small, how much do people really want to push for a better (consumer grade, at least) locator beacon?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus we find ourselves in the current state of affairs. Yes, they're polished, finished, marketable, and actually sometimes quite useful products. There is value to having them—especially if you just want to know if you're even in the same room as your wallet or keys. They're just not the magical locator beacon you might want. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyways, so glad someone asked this question! I did some work on this a number of years ago, and it feels good to share it to wider audience. It's also good to see new research is still coming out and pushing the boundaries of what we thought was possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44622" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="9d40f658-fdf0-40b7-86d2-521b73ff9484" CreationDate="2020-01-17T11:23:50.390" UserId="14237" Comment="Added reason why we need this device" Text="For a prototype, I need to use a MP3 player that meet these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Loops a .mp3 file forever when turned on&#xD;&#xA; - Can be plugged into a wall (no need to replace batteries)&#xD;&#xA; - Have a 3.5mm or 6.35mm audio output&#xD;&#xA; - If possible starts playing as soon as I plug it into the wall i.e no need to press the play button, select a playlist to play, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought of purchasing one of these old MP3 devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmcV7.png&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ670.jpg&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6HLW.png&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I'm not sure it meets all of the above conditions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: **Reason we need this:** We have a device that streams audio to a hearing aid. This device shutsdown in 5 minutes if there is no audio i.e muted. But we have a specific case where we need it to be on forever, so we thought of a mp3 player that loops an audio file of 4m30s with a little beep at the end just to stimulate the streamer to stay on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12738" RevisionGUID="5ed1103d-324d-462a-a533-8444d0661a42" CreationDate="2020-01-17T12:58:13.077" UserId="14239" Text="I started working from home, and would like to have a convenient way to connect my work laptop to my desktop setup. That is a mouse, keyboard and one monitor. Preferably I would just need to plugin a USB-C to my laptop and get going. After some research, it seems like the easiest thing would be to buy a monitor connect everything through that. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this possible to do? I'm afraid that sharing mouse/keyboard will be a bit wonky.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read that some monitors have a build in KVM-switch, and I am not sure why that would be needed if displayport and usb-c can transfer everything I need. I feel a bit out of the loop because of this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A solution that supports daisychaining monitor would be great (possibly buying another monitor in the future).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I'm looking at these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/curved/43-cj890-super-ultra-wide-curved-monitor-lc43j890dknxza/#specs&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;https://www.dell.com/ae/business/p/dell-s2718d-monitor/pd&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;https://www.lenovo.com/se/sv/accessories-and-monitors/monitors/professional/P27h-10A16270QP127inch-Monitor-HDMI/p/61AFGAT1EU&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any feedback on why these would/would not work is appreciated. Suggestions on other monitors and " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12738" RevisionGUID="5ed1103d-324d-462a-a533-8444d0661a42" CreationDate="2020-01-17T12:58:13.077" UserId="14239" Text="Monitor with USB Hub for two computers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12738" RevisionGUID="5ed1103d-324d-462a-a533-8444d0661a42" CreationDate="2020-01-17T12:58:13.077" UserId="14239" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44626" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10942" RevisionGUID="18bfd91c-b40b-45b1-96d5-751d61125f68" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:03:40.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12739" RevisionGUID="b021fc85-17c6-4c49-a8ad-58f93d083747" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:32:47.393" UserId="14241" Text="I bought a printer that needs to be connected to the network through ethernet cable, unfortunately the ethernet entry is in a completely different part of our office, which would require really long wiring to connect. Is there an adapter I can buy that will allow me to connect the printer to the network via wifi?&#xD;&#xA;(the printer has a USB port)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44628" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12739" RevisionGUID="b021fc85-17c6-4c49-a8ad-58f93d083747" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:32:47.393" UserId="14241" Text="Is there an adapter which allows an ethernet wired printer to be connected via wifi instead?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44629" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12739" RevisionGUID="b021fc85-17c6-4c49-a8ad-58f93d083747" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:32:47.393" UserId="14241" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12740" RevisionGUID="4a5efc1a-b68d-4a03-965f-1be1fb7ec4ef" CreationDate="2020-01-17T17:03:28.940" UserId="6089" Text="You can find the answer to your question on this same SE:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12005/transmitting-an-nic-to-nic-ethernet-connection-wirelessly-30-50ft/12009#12009&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device requires a power source and has a USB connector for that purpose. If your printer does not provide power at its USB port, you can use a conventional AC to USB adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can attest that the device works as advertised, but does not tolerate weak Wifi signals very well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12741" RevisionGUID="24ec9beb-1f89-4e36-8ca5-54e26ffbce48" CreationDate="2020-01-17T17:03:37.883" UserId="14242" Text="I have a Asus M32AD desktop tower pc, and a friend of mine selling Lenova Yoga 500 laptop. And I am going to buy it if laptop is suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using my pc for developing mobile apps. With Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, etc... And I found Yoga 500 similar to my computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my pc specs: i5 4460 @3.20gHz quad core cpu 12 gb ram nvidia gt740 gpu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yoga 500 specs: i5 6200u @2.30 gHz dual core cpu 4 gb ram nvidia gt940m gpu&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My idea is, I will buy Yoga 500 from my friend and add a 4gb ram, 256gb ssd.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is your ideas? &#xD;&#xA;Is Yoga 500 will have a similar performance to my desktop pc?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really confused with laptop and desktop cpu's :(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44632" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12741" RevisionGUID="24ec9beb-1f89-4e36-8ca5-54e26ffbce48" CreationDate="2020-01-17T17:03:37.883" UserId="14242" Text="Desktop vs Laptop Performance for Software Development" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44633" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12741" RevisionGUID="24ec9beb-1f89-4e36-8ca5-54e26ffbce48" CreationDate="2020-01-17T17:03:37.883" UserId="14242" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44644" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12743" RevisionGUID="a03ffa45-246c-48aa-bc37-9039727d72ee" CreationDate="2020-01-18T00:48:08.427" UserId="7556" Text="# The laptop will be about 60-70% of the speed, spec-for-spec&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-4460 has a Passmark of 6728 (1942 single core), while the i5-6200 sports a Passmark of 4010 (1496 single core.) The GT 740 sports a Passmark of 1569, while the GT 940M supports a Passmark of 1007.  If you're happy developing on your desktop, this laptop should do okay, though it will be slightly slower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, the real question is if this is a good deal for you. What do you want in a laptop: battery life, screen size, thin and light vs. larger, operating system, budget? Finally, what price are you getting it for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44646" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12738" RevisionGUID="eec80bbf-5dc9-4f12-83e2-0595ca71ccde" CreationDate="2020-01-18T17:46:57.840" UserId="7556" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[12730],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12745" RevisionGUID="96bbdd6f-18e7-4469-ac00-cb900d165c75" CreationDate="2020-01-19T01:37:04.127" UserId="14246" Text="I am about to begin studying partial differential equations, and I recall from multivariable calculus how annoying it was to hunt for, copy, and paste symbols such as ∂, ∇, Δ, etc., sometimes more than once per sentence, while discussing the subject in real time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to purchase a keyboard well-suited to creating keys for such symbols.  It would also be handy to program multiple characters, i.e., the LaTeX for a matrix, \begin{matrix}  \  \\  \  \end{matrix}, commonly used computer code, etc., into a single keystroke.  Would any random programmable keyboard such as [this][1] be good, or is there a particular keyboard or type of keyboard to get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Programmable-Mechanical-Keyboard-48-Keys-Keypad-OEM-Gateron-Red-Switch-8-Macro-/392508222976?hash=item5b63502e00&amp;_trkparms=pageci%3Aadda9651-3a5b-11ea-a69b-74dbd1800bcf%7Cparentrq%3Abb6edb1e16f0abc05ac23f06ff74d805%7Ciid%3A1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44649" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12745" RevisionGUID="96bbdd6f-18e7-4469-ac00-cb900d165c75" CreationDate="2020-01-19T01:37:04.127" UserId="14246" Text="Programmable Keyboard for Mathematics" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44650" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12745" RevisionGUID="96bbdd6f-18e7-4469-ac00-cb900d165c75" CreationDate="2020-01-19T01:37:04.127" UserId="14246" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44651" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="343ed99f-7756-4a91-9bb2-3e0cf4ea687e" CreationDate="2020-01-19T05:14:01.953" UserId="14234" Comment="added 223 characters in body" Text="I have a HP laptop &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to upgrade my HP 15 ay122ne (i7-7500U 8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone please help me with the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- For max performance, which is better, a 2.5&quot; SSD or m.2 SSD ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop isn't slow or anything but I want to take out the HDD inside it and use it as an external storage device in a USB HDD enclosure, and also to experience how fast SSD works (I have never used a laptop with SSD)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44652" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="12726" RevisionGUID="3ae85d08-e1e7-4bdb-b230-87bdc6ffd52d" CreationDate="2020-01-19T12:40:16.507" UserId="7556" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44653" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12746" RevisionGUID="2bcfa473-5c1a-48cf-bf30-125ca840a6ee" CreationDate="2020-01-19T21:34:20.780" UserId="14249" Text="I want to upgrade our dlink switch and router to a new system because we are moving to a new office. Security, reliability, remote access friendly (I'd rather be manageable and controllable.), and if possible to have an offsite computer (from home) connected to the network. I managed them all myself and I have a QNAPNAS repository also attached to the network at the present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if someone can send me;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1- The best brands to purchase&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2- and a general layout map on how to organize them. I would like to restructure the network and if possible set the QNAPNAS to be the domain controller. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your help in advance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44654" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12746" RevisionGUID="2bcfa473-5c1a-48cf-bf30-125ca840a6ee" CreationDate="2020-01-19T21:34:20.780" UserId="14249" Text="What type of Network Switch+Router to buy for small (less than 15) computers and printers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44655" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12746" RevisionGUID="2bcfa473-5c1a-48cf-bf30-125ca840a6ee" CreationDate="2020-01-19T21:34:20.780" UserId="14249" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44656" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="389a87e5-cb04-44ec-9333-c94e1f4002ad" CreationDate="2020-01-20T08:27:53.800" UserId="14106" Comment="90" />
  <row Id="44657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12747" RevisionGUID="6b9ed331-2349-464a-b69b-7438841e545f" CreationDate="2020-01-20T11:52:23.923" UserId="1873" Text="I have successfully ran a small office network using a [MikroTik Hex](https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3). It's a decent router, with good software, good management solutions and support for VPNs. We recently switched to a [bigger one](https://mikrotik.com/product/rb4011igs_5hacq2hnd_in) mostly because we needed more ports. The downside to MikroTik is their high learning curve - the first time it took me the whole day to set up.&#xA;&#xA;If you want something which is easier to set up but still has good quality I heard a lot of good things about Ubiquity. Although I don't have personal experience with them.&#xA;&#xA;As for network topology, that's a question for another site (SuperUser or Networking). In general go as close as possible to a star." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44659" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="75b7b27b-f15f-4081-97a6-c96f91b654b4" CreationDate="2020-01-20T15:02:10.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12748" RevisionGUID="9636dc80-b7e2-4dcc-b465-34200d0d6fbc" CreationDate="2020-01-20T15:24:36.423" UserId="5440" Text="I believe that the [**Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0” (2019)**][1] fits the bill (and is the only one like this from a non-Chinese brand.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's not big (while not 7&quot; display it is only 8&quot; display and the screen-to-body ratio is much smaller than the Nexus 7 because t has smaller bezels.) Has a Micro SD card slot. Has one before the last version of Android. And is pretty affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another honorable mention goes to the [**Lenovo Tab M8 FHD**][2] which is very similar, but specs are better and also the screen-to-body ratio is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/30DZhtb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/tablets/android-tablets/lenovo-tab-series/Lenovo-TB-8705/p/ZZITZTATB68" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44667" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12750" RevisionGUID="3472dd94-d0cd-417b-89e7-49724269863f" CreationDate="2020-01-21T06:15:53.833" UserId="14099" Text="I am looking for an embedded DisplayPort (eDP) to DisplayPort (DP) cable to connect an eDP output to a monitor with DP input. Resolution of video is 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44668" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12750" RevisionGUID="3472dd94-d0cd-417b-89e7-49724269863f" CreationDate="2020-01-21T06:15:53.833" UserId="14099" Text="Embedded DisplayPort to DisplayPort converter cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44669" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12750" RevisionGUID="3472dd94-d0cd-417b-89e7-49724269863f" CreationDate="2020-01-21T06:15:53.833" UserId="14099" Text="&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44670" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="7a1d75df-5613-4971-8adf-a49eeb71506e" CreationDate="2020-01-21T08:03:05.467" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="d575a1d3-0187-4b1f-b096-ec80d39d1151" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:48:28.297" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="I use *OnePlus 6* smartphone which I bought about 18 months ago; I generally really like this smartphone and generally happy I bought it.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Putting aside the `cannot-be-deleted` and `crappy-in-my-opinion` &quot;Zen mode&quot; of the Oxygen (Android) OS of One Plus.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## My problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was always annoyed from the fact that Android always necessitated me to have some applications installed even if I didn't want them installed and only let me &quot;disable&quot; them, if at all to have and couldn't delete them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has become very annoying with new apps of Andorid 10, that I can't even disable, such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **File manager**&#xD;&#xA;* **Game Space**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also always had an application which I always found redundant: &quot;Sim toolkit&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## My question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I desire a recommendation about a &quot;minimalist&quot; smartphone that, by default, doesn't have any application besides:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* settings&#xD;&#xA;* store&#xD;&#xA;* calendar&#xD;&#xA;* clock&#xD;&#xA;* sms&#xD;&#xA;* phone&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do use notes and calculator very often, but wouldn't necessarily want to use those that come with such smartphone (I might want to integrate my Microsoft Windows notes with those of the smartphone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides settings, store, calendar and clock, sms and phone?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44673" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="d575a1d3-0187-4b1f-b096-ec80d39d1151" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:48:28.297" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides settings, store, calendar, clock, sms and phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44674" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="d575a1d3-0187-4b1f-b096-ec80d39d1151" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:48:28.297" UserDisplayName="user9404" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12753" RevisionGUID="1d84dae7-d330-4bd2-8ba7-40b3f2dff6d1" CreationDate="2020-01-21T18:55:49.627" UserId="13591" Text="I have the centurion 541 cooler master case and I'm going to buy new parts to replace the old parts should I get a new case a friend told me that I should because it has bad airflow or I think it because it doesn't have enough holes for the air so I am wondering if I should toss the case or keep it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44679" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12753" RevisionGUID="1d84dae7-d330-4bd2-8ba7-40b3f2dff6d1" CreationDate="2020-01-21T18:55:49.627" UserId="13591" Text="Would a new case be best" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44680" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12753" RevisionGUID="1d84dae7-d330-4bd2-8ba7-40b3f2dff6d1" CreationDate="2020-01-21T18:55:49.627" UserId="13591" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44681" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12754" RevisionGUID="f29f7228-b13e-41ca-bf49-cd58c5fadf39" CreationDate="2020-01-21T19:20:51.760" UserId="14061" Text="&#xD;&#xA;    https://www.performance-computer.com/learn/ssds-compared/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    SATA3 Hard Drive		SATA3 SSD	    NVMe SSD&#xD;&#xA;    ~100 MB/s Read 		    530 MB/s Read 	3,500 MB/s Read&#xD;&#xA;    ~100 MB/s Write 		500 MB/s Write 	3,000 MB/s Write &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;M.2 is a **form factor**, it technically has nothing to do with speed or performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can get m.2 storage (to replace your disk or ssd) and this storage can connect either via the **SATA3 protocol** or **NVMe protocol**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SATA3 is limited to 6 gbit/sec, which then connects to the PCIe bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVMe is a protocol allowing a direct connection to the PCIe bus, it not limited to the 6gbiy/sec transfer rate limitation of the sata3 interface, and is thus faster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/m2-with-pcie-or-sata&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;using an m.2 form factor storage device having a sata3 interface, will be no different than using a typical 2.5&quot; form factor solid state disk (SSD) which also using the sata3 interface.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44685" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12750" RevisionGUID="f680ef1c-0bc5-46f3-98ef-10ad32d6c79e" CreationDate="2020-01-22T05:51:29.183" UserId="14099" Comment="New information added" Text="I am looking for an embedded DisplayPort (eDP) to DisplayPort (DP) cable to connect an eDP output to a monitor with DP input. Resolution of video is 4K.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: &#xD;&#xA;I have found an eDP to DP cable pinmap. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is just mapping the pins enough ?&#xD;&#xA; - Are there any other variables to consider, like power supply ?&#xD;&#xA; -  Will there be a loss in quality depending on the length of cable ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![eDP to DP cable pin-map][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wy5zG.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12756" RevisionGUID="0a472205-0dea-4565-b45e-70b68fad5ead" CreationDate="2020-01-22T07:54:30.723" UserId="14134" Text="I am thinking of creating a device that will detect water leaking/ water detection. I am currently using this:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And this one I want but it is costly and not available on Amazon India or flipkart :&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know if there is a small alternative for water detection as good as them. I tried searching but what I am getting was these sensors. So if you guys know any small size sensor to detect water presence please let me know. And if it comes with buzzer it will be a lot of help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VR9JS.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgZV6.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12756" RevisionGUID="0a472205-0dea-4565-b45e-70b68fad5ead" CreationDate="2020-01-22T07:54:30.723" UserId="14134" Text="small size Alternative of raindrop sensor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12756" RevisionGUID="0a472205-0dea-4565-b45e-70b68fad5ead" CreationDate="2020-01-22T07:54:30.723" UserId="14134" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="c35c6ecb-e6f5-4dab-92a4-de9449588e4a" CreationDate="2020-01-22T08:54:28.170" UserDisplayName="user9404" Comment="added 47 characters in body; edited title" Text="I use *OnePlus 6* smartphone which I bought about 18 months ago; I generally really like this smartphone and generally happy I bought it.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Putting aside the `cannot-be-deleted` and `in-my-opinion-crappy` &quot;Zen mode&quot; of the Oxygen (Android) OS of One Plus.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## My problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was always annoyed from the fact that Android always necessitated me to have some applications installed even if I didn't want them installed and only let me &quot;disable&quot; them, if at all to have and couldn't delete them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has become very annoying with new apps of Andorid 10, that I can't even disable, such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **File manager**&#xD;&#xA;* **Game Space**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also always had an application which I always found redundant: &quot;Sim toolkit&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## My question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides basic applications (as defined):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* settings&#xD;&#xA;* store&#xD;&#xA;* calendar&#xD;&#xA;* clock&#xD;&#xA;* sms&#xD;&#xA;* phone&#xD;&#xA;* Calculator&#xD;&#xA;* Camera&#xD;&#xA;* Files (with an option to create a folder for images without one created for me in ways I won't necessarily like)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;**Note:** I also use native Notes apps often but I wouldn't necessarily want to use one that come with such smartphone (I might want to integrate my Microsoft Windows notes with those of the smartphone so I would need another app).&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44690" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="c35c6ecb-e6f5-4dab-92a4-de9449588e4a" CreationDate="2020-01-22T08:54:28.170" UserDisplayName="user9404" Comment="added 47 characters in body; edited title" Text="What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides basic applications (as defined)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44691" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12717" RevisionGUID="58b4f63b-0d09-4c8a-a843-07a4692f7078" CreationDate="2020-01-22T11:18:22.987" UserId="14230" Comment="edited title" Text="Can we record audio in PC (not Android) using wireless headsets (inbuilt mic)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44706" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12759" RevisionGUID="45e49ef2-00f9-4d84-bfd7-a56bd0d9e1e0" CreationDate="2020-01-23T05:28:24.760" UserId="14266" Text="I am looking for a Single Board Computer which would be used for the following purpose:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Scan a QR code through a QR code scanner attached to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Send the text of the QR code scanner to a backend and retrieve data, which would be displayed on a display attached to the SBC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) The SBC would be continuously functional and will have to be robust enough to run 24/7 in an external environment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Should be capable enough to power a QR code scanner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The SBC would connect to the backend through WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;Raspberry Pi satisfies a lot of these criteria, but I am a bit apprehensive about how robust it could be. Any suggestions for what SBC could be potentially used for such an application?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44707" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12759" RevisionGUID="45e49ef2-00f9-4d84-bfd7-a56bd0d9e1e0" CreationDate="2020-01-23T05:28:24.760" UserId="14266" Text="Selecting Single Board Computer for Project" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44708" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12759" RevisionGUID="45e49ef2-00f9-4d84-bfd7-a56bd0d9e1e0" CreationDate="2020-01-23T05:28:24.760" UserId="14266" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12760" RevisionGUID="8cb37629-769d-4e45-9414-86aa522c4d5e" CreationDate="2020-01-23T09:34:50.987" UserId="1873" Text="You get any robust SBC. The handheld scanners already convert the QR code to text so you don't need to worry about vision recognition. It might be easier if your scanner has a virtual COM mode rather then the usual keyboard simulation.&#xA;&#xA;If you truly want to play with vision  recognition then nothing beats nVidia's Jetson - SBCs with integrated nVidia GPU. AFAIK similar hardware is used both in Nintendo Switch and Tesla's autopilot.&#xA;&#xA;Personally I'd get an SBC based on an i.MX processor since they have good Yocto support, including Qt. Something like this: https://www.digi.com/products/embedded-systems/single-board-computers/connectcore-6-sbc&#xA;&#xA;That said, the only issue with Pi's robustness, as far as I'm aware, are power cuts - if you power it off when it's writing to the SD card it might damage the filesystem. And being rated only to work in non-freezing temperatures." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12761" RevisionGUID="59be753e-8fbf-4ce1-97f0-cde5fd9ec2f1" CreationDate="2020-01-23T10:38:49.690" UserId="13636" Text="Products like this seem to exist in the market - which are bluetooth enabled weighing scales.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/pricing-scale-bluetooth-piece-counting-weighing_62434236667.html?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.6d1f3e5fzskt31&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Ocs-SP-Electronic-bluetooth-scale_60704151336.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.8.1a494554ojDVLM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12762" RevisionGUID="b0ec4e14-4599-4468-b8fd-ecda2db06fb4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T10:48:17.133" UserId="13636" Text="&#xD;&#xA;If the iPhone 7 button has become defective and non-replaceable - is there any way a physical button can be added / connected to the iPhone so that pressing it unlocks the phone (with appropriate software additions).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This product - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000009832310.html - serves as an external home button, but does not unlock it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44713" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12762" RevisionGUID="b0ec4e14-4599-4468-b8fd-ecda2db06fb4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T10:48:17.133" UserId="13636" Text="Is there a way to add a hardware button (linked physically or via Bluetooth) to an iPhone 7 which allows unlocking of the phone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44714" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12762" RevisionGUID="b0ec4e14-4599-4468-b8fd-ecda2db06fb4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T10:48:17.133" UserId="13636" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44715" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12612" RevisionGUID="a81bf8c0-58e6-4f0e-a713-7f78bfb17624" CreationDate="2020-01-23T11:01:12.677" UserId="14106" Comment="90" />
  <row Id="44719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12764" RevisionGUID="a6e08fb0-5883-4404-b2cd-78f4a638c0df" CreationDate="2020-01-23T18:29:28.857" UserId="14061" Text="Don't get hung up on **adapter**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just use a basic network router that has wifi.&#xD;&#xA;It can be a &lt; $50 solution, and would likely be the most reliable.&#xD;&#xA;Any number of rj-45 wired ports would suffice since you only need one.&#xD;&#xA;And get one that supports your wifi network if it's n or ac or ax.&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise basic 802.11 a/b/g wifi routers with &lt; 8 ports are dirt cheap, you don't need any fancy it's only for a printer.  You would just need a 120vac wall outlet to plug the wifi router into for electrical power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you search on wifi having up to 52mbps, that will exclude all the expensive fancy wifi you don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;$19.55  BELKIN F5D7230-4 Wireless G Router 802.11g &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12765" RevisionGUID="773a1875-2677-4b4b-916c-03dcf27ff2d4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:00:36.543" UserId="14270" Text="I have a very particular workload that requires GPU (OpenCL mandatory) acceleration.&#xD;&#xA;However, from what I hear, GPU are optimized for **floating points** computing, where the task I need acceleration for requires a lot of **Integer** computing, and those Integer computing scores are kinda hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More specifically, the workload consist of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**60% of 8 bytes unsigned integer&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;20% of 64 bytes unsigned integer&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;20% of 32 bytes floats.&lt;br/&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unrelated points that may affect the choice :&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of memory chuck transfer ([1 MB to 30MB]) from the CPU -&gt; GPU, and vice versa, by multiple threads at the same time.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The more memory, the better.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is important, but multiple GPU is an option if necessary.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All OpenCL benchmark I can see do not have these specific informations (mostly, **Integer** related information) in their score.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have a GPU in mind that would be convenient for such task ?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot guys !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12765" RevisionGUID="773a1875-2677-4b4b-916c-03dcf27ff2d4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:00:36.543" UserId="14270" Text="Which GPU would you recommend for this particular workload?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12765" RevisionGUID="773a1875-2677-4b4b-916c-03dcf27ff2d4" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:00:36.543" UserId="14270" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44723" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12591" RevisionGUID="1afbd106-64ce-4aaf-8758-f1793c9b3890" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:00:45.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44724" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12766" RevisionGUID="1596ca9f-3526-4ec5-a8d0-9f268dc83deb" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:07:00.057" UserId="14061" Text="consumer grade LGA1151 motherboards are **basically all limited to 16gb DIMM's**.  And memory is DDR = dual data rate == dual channel.  So you *always* want **two** DIMM's installed.  Will just one DIMM work, I'm not sure but it will definitely perform slower if it does than having two DIMM's based on how DDR works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the H series vs the Z series, either can only use up to 16gb size DIMM's.  The H series having only two DIMM slots maxes out at 32GB of RAM, whereas the Z series having four DIMM slots maxes out at 64gb RAM.  So that will basically be your driving factor, if you don't need more than 32gb ram then H series would suffice.  But also check out on the features included in the Z series which you may want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for something like a high end Z390 motherboard, you will still see *limited to maximum 64gb memory.*  But they have 4 dimm slots, if you can do 2x32gb ram and leave 2 dimms empty I don't know, check with manufacturer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so... for 16gb DDR4 288-pin desktop memory dimms&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;32gb ram = $110&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;64gb ram = $220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44725" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="d4002619-9c40-448a-afe6-b77830556af9" CreationDate="2020-01-23T20:03:25.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44730" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12765" RevisionGUID="575da6fb-41b1-4c15-8346-f8eac3779d4e" CreationDate="2020-01-23T21:45:22.807" UserId="14270" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I have a very particular workload that requires GPU (OpenCL mandatory) acceleration.&#xD;&#xA;However, from what I hear, GPU are optimized for **floating points** computing, where the task I need acceleration for requires a lot of **Integer** computing, and those Integer computing scores are kinda hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More specifically, the workload consist of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**60% of 8 bits unsigned integer, mostly performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;20% of 64 bits unsigned integer, again, mostly performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;20% of 32 bits floats, performing trigonometry on results from previous Integers sums&lt;br/&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unrelated points that may affect the choice :&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of memory chuck transfer ([1 MB to 30MB]) from the CPU -&gt; GPU, and vice versa, by multiple threads at the same time.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The more memory, the better.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is important, but multiple GPU is an option if necessary.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All OpenCL benchmark I can see do not have these specific informations (mostly, **Integer** related information) in their score.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have a GPU in mind that would be convenient for such task ?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot guys !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44731" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12765" RevisionGUID="3344dff1-8c5b-45b2-9eaa-dacdccf9c3a6" CreationDate="2020-01-23T21:51:39.990" UserId="14270" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I have a very particular workload that requires GPU (OpenCL mandatory) acceleration.&#xD;&#xA;However, from what I hear, GPU are optimized for **floating points** computing, where the task I need acceleration for requires a lot of **Integer** computing, and those Integer computing scores are kinda hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More specifically (out of the whole data sent to the GPU), the workload consist of:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**- 60% of 8 bits unsigned integer, mostly used for performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- 20% of 64 bits unsigned integer, again, mostly used for performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;- 20% of 32 bits floats, used for performing trigonometry on results from previous Integers sums&lt;br/&gt;**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unrelated points that may affect the choice :&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of memory chunk transfer ([1 MB to 30MB]) from the CPU -&gt; GPU, and vice versa, by multiple threads at the same time.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;The more memory, the better.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Speed is important, but multiple GPU is an option if necessary.&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All OpenCL benchmark I can see do not have these specific informations (mostly, **Integer** related information) in their score.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have a GPU in mind that would be convenient for such task ?&lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot guys !&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12768" RevisionGUID="e058bd20-8937-4390-857c-d26fa440ddd7" CreationDate="2020-01-24T06:52:48.327" UserId="14109" Text="Please suggest me phone with these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Removable battery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dual sim&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available extended battery not less than 8Ah&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available bootloader unlocking&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exclude LG V20&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44734" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12768" RevisionGUID="e058bd20-8937-4390-857c-d26fa440ddd7" CreationDate="2020-01-24T06:52:48.327" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me phone with removable battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44735" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12768" RevisionGUID="e058bd20-8937-4390-857c-d26fa440ddd7" CreationDate="2020-01-24T06:52:48.327" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44736" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12769" RevisionGUID="67be20cc-78f6-4f83-bbe9-aa808cb6d788" CreationDate="2020-01-24T08:01:15.200" UserId="14273" Text="I would like to run a multimedia windows application to run on a compact single board computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. 4K HDMI input&#xD;&#xA;2. 4K HDMI output&#xD;&#xA;3. 2 USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;4. Windows OS&#xD;&#xA;5. Powerful board capable of capturing and recording 4K video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if there is any Single board that can match the above requirents?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44737" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12769" RevisionGUID="67be20cc-78f6-4f83-bbe9-aa808cb6d788" CreationDate="2020-01-24T08:01:15.200" UserId="14273" Text="Single Board Windows PC with 4K HDMI input and 4K Output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44738" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12769" RevisionGUID="67be20cc-78f6-4f83-bbe9-aa808cb6d788" CreationDate="2020-01-24T08:01:15.200" UserId="14273" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;development-board&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12770" RevisionGUID="c1f12ed5-b767-45ae-9e18-5a304db3967a" CreationDate="2020-01-24T09:22:07.323" UserId="14274" Text="I am looking for a keyboard (and optionally a mouse) that is Bluetooth-enabled and backlit and can switch between different Bluetooth devices (pc and tablet/phone). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44740" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12770" RevisionGUID="c1f12ed5-b767-45ae-9e18-5a304db3967a" CreationDate="2020-01-24T09:22:07.323" UserId="14274" Text="Multi Device Bluetooth keyboard and mouse" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44741" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12770" RevisionGUID="c1f12ed5-b767-45ae-9e18-5a304db3967a" CreationDate="2020-01-24T09:22:07.323" UserId="14274" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12771" RevisionGUID="d4503c06-20e9-4d4f-89cb-bdb50ecac7bf" CreationDate="2020-01-24T12:31:43.047" UserId="14061" Text="https://devblogs.nvidia.com/inside-volta/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://devblogs.nvidia.com/mixed-precision-programming-cuda-8/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://devtalk.nvidia.com/default/topic/1038492/cuda-programming-and-performance/question-about-64-bit-integer-performance/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; With the exception of converting between 64-bit integer types and floating-point types, the double-precision units in the GPU have no bearing on 64-bit integer performance.... 64 bit integer is done by emulation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know taking advantage of fp16 versus the typical fp32 results in significant gain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise **i think** integer performance on a gpgpu follows the benchmarking or reporting you always see for floating point... which is to say you don't gain anything by having integer math over floating point on a gpgpu and since the majority of interest is in floating point calculations that's why you see them.  In any case if you can code your problem in OpenCL (or CUDA) to take advantage of gpu then it will be faster than running the executable on cpu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't think your stated workload would have any bearing on gpgpu choice of architecture.  There is no specific gpu that favors your specific workload.  OpenCL/Cuda basically runs on any gpu so you would want to buy the latest/fastest gpgpu that your budget allows, which is currently an Nvidia V100.  After that it's a debate which card is faster and has a better price/performance ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you also don't have to buy a &quot;gpgpu&quot; such as a V100 or P100 or K80, you can also get a &lt; $300 *graphics card* that will **allow** you to run your OpenCL code but whether the performance is up to par for your needs I don't know you didn't mention that.  A *GPGPU* is the hardware that is favored to run OpenCL or Cuda.  Also know OpenCL is opensource supported by both AMD gpu's and Nvidia gpu's, whereas CUDA is Nvidia proprietary and only supported on Nvidia gpu's.  And CUDA is generally favored over OpenCL for best possible performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44743" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12772" RevisionGUID="5bdcd12b-540f-4dba-9595-7af57aaff663" CreationDate="2020-01-24T15:45:19.837" UserId="1873" Text="Bluetooth itself is single master multiple slave. Which means that you cannot bind a device to multiple hosts simultaneously. You would have to reconnect/rebind your keyboard every time you want to switch the master. There is no way around it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12773" RevisionGUID="25b023ee-a064-4579-9dea-bcb5d0b1773a" CreationDate="2020-01-24T18:29:45.640" UserId="14275" Text="I think the only one which fits all the requirements is the [Moto E6 Plus.][1] The 64Gb variant has 4GB of RAM, a removable battery, dual-sim and has known methods for unlocking the bootloader. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only point I'm not sure is available extended batteries, but afaik no existing phone has a 8Ah extended battery. You are better off using an external battery with USB charging. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_e6_plus-9831.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12774" RevisionGUID="f9d8b735-a965-46f5-934e-48eb0328484a" CreationDate="2020-01-24T21:26:51.090" UserId="1921" Text="This will fit any motherboard with a free pci-e slot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_mtf_aps_sr_pg2_2?ie=UTF8&amp;adId=A05329332UIW0OA345RVE&amp;url=%2FSIIG-Legacy-Express-External-Supports%2Fdp%2FB075SL611C%2Fref%3Dsr_1_28_sspa%3Fcrid%3D21UG840YWFFZA%26keywords%3Dpcie%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bcard%26qid%3D1579900980%26sprefix%3Dpcie%2Busb%252Caps%252C154%26sr%3D8-28-spons%26psc%3D1&amp;qualifier=1579900980&amp;id=2883134542341984&amp;widgetName=sp_mtf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NOTE I am not endorsing this model vs the 100 variations found on amazon.  Any will work to varing degrees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWwr4.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12775" RevisionGUID="35e5f54f-2552-4b59-babc-f746dc58d373" CreationDate="2020-01-24T21:53:32.600" UserId="14270" Text="From the benchmarks found [here][1]&#xD;&#xA;, the GIOPS (Integer Operation Per Second) for the Nvidia 2080Ti is second only to the RTX Titan, but for 1/3 the price. &lt;br/&gt;Since this specific workload contains a lot of small chunck of memory transfer, It seems like two 2080Ti(s) are the logical choice all domain (budget, memory IO, ram, computing power) considered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.servethehome.com/xfx-amd-radeon-rx-5700-xt-update-and-review/3/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44751" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12776" RevisionGUID="17656515-7194-423f-b8af-36f0ad2867d6" CreationDate="2020-01-25T03:48:10.390" UserId="6765" Text="I'm currently looking for a laptop with discrete graphics that will work properly with Linux. I would like to avoid optimus as it never works right, and doesn't put things on the gpu when I want them on there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would probably end up buying a used laptop (within the last 2 years), that's currently a good deal. I usually just buy thinkpads, and I would like to get something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently rocking a w540, and the only thing holding it back is the weak graphics and optimus." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44752" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12776" RevisionGUID="17656515-7194-423f-b8af-36f0ad2867d6" CreationDate="2020-01-25T03:48:10.390" UserId="6765" Text="Recomendations for Discrete Graphics Linux Laptop of Thinkpad Build Quality" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44753" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12776" RevisionGUID="17656515-7194-423f-b8af-36f0ad2867d6" CreationDate="2020-01-25T03:48:10.390" UserId="6765" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12780" RevisionGUID="bf70ca29-c262-44e7-a7e3-418cd4401d3c" CreationDate="2020-01-26T06:07:16.680" UserId="10183" Text="My old laptop is now out of service, but it had a very nice FHD screen that works with [this cable](https://www.amazon.com/Inspiron-15R-5520-15R-7520-0R4WW7-DC02001GD10/dp/B072K4MKG4), while I'm missing a second monitor for myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen [this post](https://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-a-dead-laptop-into-a-monitor-with-Plexiglas-s/) and was wondering if there was any off-the shelf tool that would allow me to use the screen as a second monitor, even if without the stand at first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything that accepts HDMI or display port as input would be great. Something that ships internationally would be nice too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12780" RevisionGUID="bf70ca29-c262-44e7-a7e3-418cd4401d3c" CreationDate="2020-01-26T06:07:16.680" UserId="10183" Text="Tool to reuse old laptop screen as a monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12780" RevisionGUID="bf70ca29-c262-44e7-a7e3-418cd4401d3c" CreationDate="2020-01-26T06:07:16.680" UserId="10183" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12781" RevisionGUID="07d52c74-e667-4062-9bee-4b42ec30bb1f" CreationDate="2020-01-26T06:38:44.900" UserId="9588" Text="We need to find out what that panel actually is. Let's try searching for Inspiron 7520 LCD replacement panel: https://www.google.com/search?q=dell+inspiron+7520+lcd+replacement+panel this is not fruitful immediately but it does lead to https://www.dell.com/community/Laptops-General-Read-Only/Dell-Inspiron-15r-7520-SE-screen-model-number/td-p/4304809 tells us the screen Dell part number is DC9YJ. Progress!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Feeding that into Google https://www.google.com/search?q=dc9yj we quickly find (it's in the result list, even) the panel is compatible with LP156WFC(TL)(B1). (A quick countercheck shows it's [resolution](https://www.google.com/search?q=LP156WFC+resolution&amp;oq=LP156WFC+resolution&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.1798j0j1&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8) is indeed FHD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Our next and last search is for the driver board for that: https://www.google.com/search?q=LP156WFC(TL)(B1)+driver+board which leads us to &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-for-LP156WFC-TL-B1-LED-LCD-Controller-Driver-Board-HDMI-DVI-VGA-/122509319792&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;which is what you are looking for I believe." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12783" RevisionGUID="94728ae6-4822-4a10-b36b-2aa16ace8aa0" CreationDate="2020-01-26T12:24:18.387" UserId="14278" Text="We are a mechanical insulation company who is looking to speed up our insulation blanket manufacturing capacity.  Currently all of our patterns are hand laid out, and time consuming.  &#xA;&#xA;I am currently looking for recommendations on laser cutters for cutting needled fiberglass mat approximately 1in thick.  If we are going to the effort of adding this, it will need to be able to cut .016 aluminum sheeting and .030 pvc sheeting too.&#xA;&#xA;I have a lot of history with CNC machining but no experience with lasers.  5x10ft table is a must to accommodate 60in rolls of glass mat.  Would 1000 watts get the job done?  Will $50,000usd get us in the ballpark?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44768" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12783" RevisionGUID="94728ae6-4822-4a10-b36b-2aa16ace8aa0" CreationDate="2020-01-26T12:24:18.387" UserId="14278" Text="Wattage recommendation for laser cutter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44769" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12783" RevisionGUID="94728ae6-4822-4a10-b36b-2aa16ace8aa0" CreationDate="2020-01-26T12:24:18.387" UserId="14278" Text="&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12785" RevisionGUID="6ca46a7c-b69d-4c14-9633-2292ddcc0fe3" CreationDate="2020-01-26T14:00:29.123" UserId="10307" Text="I am looking for a hardware that would be somewhat similar to the [Turris Omnia][1] but with full support for *all the hardware* components when running an upstream distro (e.g. OpenWRT/Debian/Ubuntu ...).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the component list inspired by OpenWRT's device page (linked above):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* dual-core CPU (Marvell Armada 385) or better&#xD;&#xA;* 2 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;* 8 GB flash&#xD;&#xA;* 6 Gbit ports (or more)&#xD;&#xA;* SFP connector (optional, but nice to have)&#xD;&#xA;* 2x USB 3.0 (or better and/or more)&#xD;&#xA;* 2 mini PCIe slots with 2.4GHz and 5Ghz Wi-Fi cards (the slots are more important to have than the cards)&#xD;&#xA;* 1 mini PCie together with mSATA interface&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the sake of this question I'd count OpenWRT, Debian or even Ubuntu as upstream distros (so naturally Arch, Gentoo etc would also qualify). It'd be acceptable for me if the kernel and device tree (i.e. &quot;boot files&quot;) were specific to the device, but I don't want some kind of forked distro (TurrisOS is an OpenWRT fork that's always lagging behind, Mikrotik RouterOS is half-proprietary it seems) or something bare bones (e.g. Buildroot-based like in the Asus RT-N66U) where updates don't come in packages (but as a single image to be flashed).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Armbian is a nice example of what I am looking for. An upstream distro, combined with device-specific files required to boot and all nicely packaged up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently [neither Debian](https://wiki.debian.org/InstallingDebianOn/TurrisOmnia) [nor OpenWRT](https://openwrt.org/toh/turris/turris_omnia#switch_ports_for_vlans) fully support all the hardware components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://openwrt.org/toh/turris/turris_omnia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12785" RevisionGUID="6ca46a7c-b69d-4c14-9633-2292ddcc0fe3" CreationDate="2020-01-26T14:00:29.123" UserId="10307" Text="Looking for a router with certain minimum specs running an upstream distro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12785" RevisionGUID="6ca46a7c-b69d-4c14-9633-2292ddcc0fe3" CreationDate="2020-01-26T14:00:29.123" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12786" RevisionGUID="971af850-3054-4e06-906b-ecc3004e30dd" CreationDate="2020-01-26T19:10:54.850" UserId="7556" Text="# There is no board that fits your exact requirements. Get an add-in capture card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming we allow 4K@30 output, getting 4K out is a pretty simple task since most every board supports HDMI 1.4. Unfortunately, encoding a 4K stream, even at 30 Hz, is an extremely demanding task, and putting that requirement on an SBC makes things... complicated. Let's run through some of the options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## x86 boards with video input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel embed-oriented processors—namely Apollo Lake and Cherry Trail—contain support for the MIPI-CSI interface, and there are a variety of boards with support for these processor lines. However, only a few actually have a the requisite connector on the board. From most to least powerful, they are the [UP²](https://up-board.org/upsquared/specifications/) and [PICO-APL3](https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/pico-itx-boards-pico-apl3), [UP Core Plus](https://up-board.org/upcoreplus/specifications/), [Up Core](https://up-board.org/upcore/specifications/) and [ROCK Pi X](https://rockpi.org).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interfacing with the MIPI-CSI port can be accomplished through the use of an HDMI to CSI bridge. Toshiba manufactures three such chips: the [TC358743XBG, TC358840XBG, and TC358870XBG](https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/us/semiconductor/product/interface-bridge-ics-for-mobile-peripheral-devices/hdmir-interface-bridge-ics.html), the latter two of which support 3840x2160@30. However, there is no reference or development board available to my knowledge, and the only consumer boards available—the Auvidea B100, B101, and B102—use the TC358743XBG. Additionally, these boards rely on a V4L2 driver to interface properly—something that obviously isn't available on Windows. While it's possible that they'd work just fine with Windows, it's hard to say. Outside of these, you'd be resorting to designing your own board or trolling AliExpress for an appropriate board. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further, Apollo Lake and Cherry Trail processors are... not powerful. I wouldn't trust them to perform a high quality software encode, and given they only have HD Graphics 505 at best, I wouldn't trust them to handle it with Quick Sync Video either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Powerful ARM boards with CSI video input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know you've already discussed it to some extent, but the Jetson does make a fairly compelling case. It's got the most powerful GPU of any SBC I know, and 4K encode with NVENC should be will within reach—and NVENC looks good, even compared to a software encoder. Unfortunately, it's obviously not going to run standard Windows, so unless your application happens to run on Windows 10 on ARM, you'd have to refactor your application. Further, it uses MIPI-CSI for video input, not HDMI, which puts us back in the same situation as the x86 boards where there's (as of yet) no adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## ARM boards with HDMI video input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Similarly, there are a number of boards with HDMI video input. Unfortunately, most of these boards aren't particularly powerful, nor do they support standard desktop Windows, giving us many of the same problems as before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- i.MX boards: Several i.MX SoCs include built-in support for MIPI-DSI video input, making them a popular and simple choice. Unfortunately, they're generally not powerful.&#xD;&#xA; - [Ventana GW5510](https://www.gateworks.com/products/imx6-single-board-computer-gateworks-ventana-family/gw5510-single-board-computer/): i.MX6 ARM 1c A9 @ 800 MHz. Only lists support for 1080p@60 input and output.&#xD;&#xA; - [Geniatech NXP i.MX 8M](https://www.geniatech.com/product/apc810/): 4c i.MX 8M ARM 4c A53 + M4 @ 1.5 GHz. Supports 2160p@60 out, but only 1080p@60 in.&#xD;&#xA; - [Boundary Devices BD_HDMI_MIPI](https://boundarydevices.com/product/bd_hdmi_mipi/): Isn't an SBC itself, but allows any i.MX6 or i.MX8 board to use an HDMI input over CSI. However, since it uses the TC358743XBG, it only supports 1080p@60.&#xD;&#xA;- [INFORCE 6420](https://www.inforcecomputing.com/products/application-ready-platforms/qualcomm-snapdragon-600-inforce-6420t): 4c Snapdragon 600E ARM 4c @ 1.7 GHz. Only supports 1080p in and out.&#xD;&#xA;- [Orange Pi RK3399](http://www.orangepi.org/Orange%20Pi%20RK3399/): 4c RK3399 ARM A53 + 2c ARM @ 2.0 GHz. Supports 2160p@60 out, but unknown in.&#xD;&#xA;- Tronsmart PAVO M9: Some random settop box that happens to have HDMI in. No idea what the specs are, technically not an SBC, but [someone did manage](https://blog.danman.eu/using-tronsmart-pavo-m9-for-hdmi-input-streaming/) to get something going with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Powerful x86 boards without video input&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is probably the most reasonable option. Given the availability of USB and PCI-e based capture cards, using a capture card with a powerful board would allow for everything to work—just with some extra effort and hardware. Given the widespread availability of this type of SBC (and similar NUCs), I won't attempt to enumerate every possible board. However, using software, Intel's Quick Sync Video, Nvidia's NVENC, or AMD's VCE are all possible depending on which exact hardware you get (though you should note that VCE in particular falls behind the others.) Some manufacturers you may want to look at include [Udoo](https://www.udoo.org), [Up](https://up-shop.org/home/343-up-xtreme.html), [Aaeon](https://www.aaeon.com/en/c/embedded-boards), and [Ibase](http://ibase-usa.com)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12787" RevisionGUID="763b8a49-57ee-4e4d-85d9-8f17eaad5805" CreationDate="2020-01-27T03:38:24.627" UserId="14280" Text="We just upgraded ours from our Netgear R7800 to an Eero wifi system. I love the new Eero system because it is easy to use, and does everything I need it to do. Ours came with a pack of 3, but you can easily expand the router count within the Eero app. Just note that the Eeros need the Android or iOS app to set up, and has no website to use like what a Netgear would have (i.e. routerlogin.net). I hope this helps, even after a couple of years after the original post.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12788" RevisionGUID="48578f1a-c625-4609-b6fe-931b8245a676" CreationDate="2020-01-27T03:43:25.827" UserId="14280" Text="Why do you want a removable battery? The reason phone manufacturers has gone away with that is to improve the waterproofing and durability of the phones. To MY knowledge (as an Apple phone user), I don't know of any." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12789" RevisionGUID="1032f978-d982-4f2a-8922-5fcdfdc4a231" CreationDate="2020-01-27T03:51:41.433" UserId="14280" Text="What components are you looking to place in the case? All it needs to do is fit the components in it and have plenty of airflow to get the hot air out of the case. If you want more space for more expandability in the future and the best cable management possible, then yea maybe upgrade the case, but it's up to your preference as long as those new components fit. I mean if you're putting 64GB of 3600mhz ram, AMD Threadripper and RTX 2080TI in it, then you might want to consider buying a new case. But if you're putting a more moderate/average gaming PC in it, then maybe not. I mean, hell, Linus from Linus Tech Tips put a RTX 20 series card in a pretty small case for a VR streaming pc." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44780" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="e412a17a-12cf-4aa4-b038-77f6ada3625f" CreationDate="2020-01-27T04:04:55.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44781" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="1af40192-7f09-49ee-872c-b695356f1a16" CreationDate="2020-01-27T08:42:46.753" UserDisplayName="user9404" Comment="91" />
  <row Id="44782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12769" RevisionGUID="c9f0ea31-4ace-4205-bd13-947821ff06ea" CreationDate="2020-01-27T10:08:23.667" UserId="14273" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I would like to run a multimedia windows application to run on a compact single board computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. 4K@30fps HDMI input&#xD;&#xA;2. 4K@30fps HDMI output&#xD;&#xA;3. 2 USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;4. Windows OS&#xD;&#xA;5. Powerful board capable of encoding and decoding 4K video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am wondering if there is any Single board that can match the above requirents?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44784" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12787" RevisionGUID="6bd871b8-bf93-48da-98c5-7b6f14411931" CreationDate="2020-01-27T14:18:34.330" UserId="14280" Comment="Added an feature about the Eeros" Text="We just upgraded ours from our Netgear R7800 to an Eero wifi system. I love the new Eero system because it is easy to use, and does everything I need it to do. Ours came with a pack of 3, but you can easily expand the router count within the Eero app. Just note that the Eeros need the Android or iOS app to set up, and has no website to use like what a Netgear would have (i.e. routerlogin.net). I hope this helps, even after a couple of years after the original post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about the Eero is that you can connect them wirelessly and have 2 ethernet ports on two Eeros and 1 ethernet port on one Eero or wired together, and still have a spare port on the slave Eeros.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44785" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12790" RevisionGUID="17b1b469-8f87-4cad-8605-6dbaa1827b18" CreationDate="2020-01-27T14:25:25.987" UserId="14280" Text="I wouldn't suggest moving from an Android to a iOS (due to iOS's weird way it handles restoring from an Android backup) but if you wanted it from brand new, no contacts or pictures, iPhones are pretty reliable and don't force many apps on you. It comes installed with some useless apps for most people, but pretty much all of those can be deleted. Here are the apps on an iPhone that are forced (this is on a iPhone XR, on iOS 13.3).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Photos&#xD;&#xA; - Wallet&#xD;&#xA; - Camera&#xD;&#xA; - Clock&#xD;&#xA; - Health&#xD;&#xA; - Phone&#xD;&#xA; - Messages&#xD;&#xA; - Find My (Finds your iDevices and friends)&#xD;&#xA; - Settings&#xD;&#xA; - App Store&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are productivity apps avalible, and a file app but those are optional." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44788" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12787" RevisionGUID="7653fee6-4db0-45e3-94c7-f6f9bf1bfe2b" CreationDate="2020-01-27T17:43:24.833" UserId="14280" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="We just upgraded ours from our Netgear R7800 to an [Eero wifi system][1]. I love the new Eero system because it is easy to use, and does everything I need it to do. Ours came with a pack of 3, but you can easily expand the router count within the Eero app. Just note that the Eeros need the Android or iOS app to set up, and has no website to use like what a Netgear would have (i.e. routerlogin.net). I hope this helps, even after a couple of years after the original post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about the Eero is that you can connect them wirelessly and have 2 ethernet ports on two Eeros and 1 ethernet port on one Eero or wired together, and still have a spare port on the slave Eeros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://eero.com/shop/eero-3-pack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12791" RevisionGUID="46c88139-ef3c-448c-a3a1-3335786ec26a" CreationDate="2020-01-27T18:37:13.953" UserId="13421" Text="If expense is a priority, make your own. Just weave two bare copper wires in parallel through a piece of nonconductive material such as nylon fabric. You can customize the size, flexibility and other qualities to your needs. For a bed-wetting or diaper sensor, use thin wires and material for comfort, going to two heavier ones for the connection to the rest of the circuit, for strength.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solid PC boards you show might be more useful in detecting water on a floor or window, though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44797" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12794" RevisionGUID="be4797d9-427d-4767-a198-4f55c3c44715" CreationDate="2020-01-28T09:45:57.140" UserId="14287" Text="I am searching for a power relay to switch between two 24V power supplies. Currently I use two separate 5V relays switched on from the same digital output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I looked in RS and Mouser but am not able to find anything useful. Since there are footprints available I guess such relays exist and hopefully for my requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ILuox.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb1s8.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44798" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12794" RevisionGUID="be4797d9-427d-4767-a198-4f55c3c44715" CreationDate="2020-01-28T09:45:57.140" UserId="14287" Text="5V 2 channel relay for &lt;50V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44799" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12794" RevisionGUID="be4797d9-427d-4767-a198-4f55c3c44715" CreationDate="2020-01-28T09:45:57.140" UserId="14287" Text="&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12796" RevisionGUID="15bfc87a-50b4-4902-924e-0466f0bf1ab1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T12:58:46.943" UserId="14275" Text="You are looking for a DPDT (double pole, double throw) relay. This has a schematic like this:&#xD;&#xA;[![RT-1-DPDT-8A][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find such relays in stock at multiple suppliers, though I highly recommend digikey.&#xD;&#xA;Here's a list of 5V DPDT Power Relays with over 2A:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Digikey.com - 5V DPDT Relays (through hole)][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Mouser.com 5V DPDT][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.imgur.com/FfDmHTIm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/relays/power-relays-over-2-amps/188?k=&amp;pkeyword=&amp;sv=0&amp;pv1409=340465&amp;sf=1&amp;FV=72%7C249586%2C675%7C380320%2C1409%7C202417%2C1409%7C228181%2C1409%7C228236%2C1409%7C228243%2C1409%7C228247%2C1409%7C340465%2C1409%7C340495%2C1409%7C340503%2C1409%7C340511%2C1409%7C340512%2C1409%7C405969%2C-8%7C188&amp;quantity=&amp;ColumnSort=0&amp;page=1&amp;stock=1&amp;pageSize=25&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.mouser.ca/Electromechanical/Relays/_/N-5g31Z1yzvvqx?P=1z0x3ypZ1z0x3tdZ1y8q6ai" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44802" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12751" RevisionGUID="beed7a7f-e604-4e15-ba64-d819a3121fff" CreationDate="2020-01-28T13:03:58.153" UserDisplayName="user9404" Comment="91" />
  <row Id="44803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12797" RevisionGUID="776335dd-d1ab-4721-a8be-043640f962a7" CreationDate="2020-01-28T14:37:25.167" UserId="14282" Text="As stated in other answers, a Wireless Bridge describes exactly what you are looking for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To provide an alternative solution, I can also recommend a [Powerline Adapter][1]. This is a psuedo-wired connection. When you purchase the powerline adapter, it comes with two adapters and two ethernet cables. One adapter is connected to your router then plugged into a wall outlet. The ethernet signal is sent over your building's powerlines to the second adapter which is connected to the printer. You may even connect a [networking switch][2] to the adapter to connect multiple devices.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00AWRUICG&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/99A3J.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12798" RevisionGUID="3bb979f1-b2d7-41ec-913b-6a522c86bbcc" CreationDate="2020-01-28T14:51:31.523" UserId="14282" Text="The Centurion 541 by Cooler Master is an old case. I would recommend purchasing a new case to get the modern features. For starters, new cases have many channels for routing cables and hiding them away cleanly. New cases will also typically have a window on the left side so that you can showcase your components. They will also have USB 3.xx which will mean faster throughput for your devices and portable storage that are USB 3.xx compatible. Many modern cases also focus on airflow, so it will not be difficult to find a case with a good amount of ventilation. Lastly, modern cases also focus on aesthetics. In the past, manufactures did not seem to care too much on how the case looked. Now you can find one that looks great as well as being feature-rich and functional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On a side-note, be sure to compare the max CPU cooler height and the max GPU length designated by the case manufacturer to the height and length of the cooler and GPU that you are looking to purchase. Nothing worse than getting ready to build and finding that your components don't fit! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12799" RevisionGUID="46f4c414-4d41-4a65-8c5e-a6dcb7b1de88" CreationDate="2020-01-28T15:48:56.920" UserId="14282" Text="Any of the following Logitech Keyboards with their &quot;Easy-Switch&quot; technology will allow you to switch between multiple devices via Bluetooth. They have three buttons or a 3-way dial to switch instantly between up to three devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I personally use the tenkeyless (TKL) Logitech K480 at work since it can switch between 3 devices and has a tray for my cell phone. If you'd like a numberpad, the Logitech K780 is a good choice. Here are all of the keyboards that Logitech sells direct-to-consumer that contain the [Easy-Switch technology][1]. For some reason the K480 is on its own page [here][2]. Most Logitech keyboards can also be purchased online or at Brick-and-Mortar stores such as Amazon, Best Buy, Micro Center, Newegg, Staples, Walmart, ect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as mice go, Logitech continues with their MX Anywhere lineup. Any of the MX 2S or 3 series mice will have Easy-Switch. They also let you copy files on one PC and paste them on another which is a nice feature to have. You may find the MX Anywhere 2S [here][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards?filters=3948,3949,3959&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/multi-device-keyboard-k480&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-anywhere-2s-flow?crid=7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44806" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12800" RevisionGUID="cf785dd8-582d-41c3-8e7c-45309a86916b" CreationDate="2020-01-28T16:14:10.937" UserId="14282" Text="I would recommend purchasing a kit of 2x8GB DDR4 RAM (2133mhz or 2400mhz), replacing your existing RAM entirely. If you wanted to go to 32GB, you could purchase a kit of 2x16GB DDR4 RAM as well, although 16GB is more than enough for the typical user. Then just sell your existing RAM kit (2x4GB) locally, online, or save them for another system. The 2x8GB kit should run around $50-60, and then you can sell your existing kit to help offset the cost. The H110m is a 6th/7th gen Intel-compatible motherboard (1151 socket). They are not the easiest to come by, although I have personally purchased three in the last two years. Due to the current low availability of these boards, the cheap cost of RAM, and the wide-availability of RAM, I would recommend purchasing a kit of RAM over a new board, and call it a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good brands for RAM: G.Skill, Corsair, Crucial, HyperX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B017NW5NZY/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44807" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12801" RevisionGUID="26adaca6-a6ec-45b8-8d91-f3e01134b13b" CreationDate="2020-01-28T16:24:04.417" UserId="14282" Text="There aren't any buttons that can unlock an iPhone to the best of my knowledge because it would be a security risk. However, you can pair a bluetooth keyboard to the iPhone and use the keyboard to unlock the phone. When I pair my Logitech K480 keyboard with my iPhone, it allows me to lock/unlock, type messages, take screenshots, adjust volume, and more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also recommend taking a look at the app &quot;Shortcuts&quot; by Apple. You may find it very useful." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44809" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12803" RevisionGUID="533584ff-424e-472b-b606-df205bf67330" CreationDate="2020-01-28T16:46:01.410" UserId="14282" Text="Tile's &quot;Smart Alert&quot; premium service can achieve the desired outcome. Trackr also has a similar capability called &quot;Separation Alerts&quot; which I believe is free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tile: https://tileteam.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360009109234-Keep-Calm-with-Smart-Alerts&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Trackr: https://www.thetrackr.com/trackr-faq/ (Ctrl+F, search for separation)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44810" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12791" RevisionGUID="58226a3a-b0e1-442a-b468-720814534bd9" CreationDate="2020-01-28T17:13:38.717" UserId="13421" Comment="added 521 characters in body" Text="The sensors shown are simply conductors separated by an insulating space. When water, which conducts electricity slightly when  pure (or much better with dissolved ionic substances), bridges the gap, it completes the circuit. All you need are two conductors, separated from each other by an insulator such as air, PCB plastic or cloth. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If expense is a priority, make your own. Just weave two bare copper wires in parallel through a piece of nonconductive material such as nylon fabric. You can customize the size, flexibility and other qualities to your needs. For a bed-wetting or diaper sensor, use thin wires and material for comfort, going to two heavier ones for the connection to the rest of the circuit, for strength. For a diaper alarm, just put the sensor in an are likely to get wet; there's not need to wrap the whole diaper. BTW, disposable diapers contain absorbents that prevent the outside from getting wet, and I do *not* suggest putting a sensor *inside*, against a baby's sensitive skin. Ummm... and sterilize the sensor after use with bleach or hot water.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The solid PC boards you show might be more useful in detecting water on a floor or window, though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44811" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12804" RevisionGUID="9ffd50da-0a0e-4809-ba0a-af2247cc7721" CreationDate="2020-01-28T19:10:43.597" UserId="14282" Text="You can purchase programmable macro keypads, but they're typically more than 20€. The one I've linked below is about 33.42€ after clipping the 8% off coupon, but before taxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Koolertron-Mechanical-Keyboard-One-Handed-Programmable/dp/B07VWHS9V6/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12806" RevisionGUID="16f71185-6e0a-4fea-8e3e-792f59acebe2" CreationDate="2020-01-28T19:40:31.887" UserId="14282" Text="Wyze Cams are simple to setup and simple to use. While they have cloud storage capabilities, they do not have to be used. You can put in a high capacity microSD and record right to the card. The live cameras can be accessed remotely, as well as the footage. They have fixed cameras and cameras that pan. Did I mention that they're inexpensive as well? You can purchase them directly from Wyze, Amazon, Micro Center, or Home Depot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check them out: https://wyze.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12807" RevisionGUID="5d2fb75b-9e68-4b40-b3b8-35e320487aa4" CreationDate="2020-01-28T20:24:54.083" UserId="14282" Text="The Elgato 4K60S+ seems to check all of your boxes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 4K resolution @ 60fps&#xD;&#xA; - Portable and Standalone&#xD;&#xA; - Perfect Pass-Through&#xD;&#xA; - SD Card slot&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It also has HDR10 capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-4k60-s-plus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44815" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12794" RevisionGUID="8b2312bf-609a-4191-94e4-32c11b017b01" CreationDate="2020-01-28T20:32:01.863" UserId="7556" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="44822" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12809" RevisionGUID="87506abb-61bc-4ffb-94fe-ddf030d63a07" CreationDate="2020-01-28T20:44:54.333" UserId="14282" Text="Your PC and your stereo are different systems and thus must be treated as such. You can purchase basically any cheap internal or USB optical drive for your computer and it will read/write CDs and DVDs. Then purchase a portable CD player and 3.5mm auxiliary cable to hookup to your stereo. If your stereo does not have any jacks labled &quot;IN&quot; or &quot;AUX&quot; then you must find the exact replacement part for your stereo and repair it, or purchase a new stereo receiver." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44834" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="8aa3761b-5c86-48e7-b50e-c05c2b0152db" CreationDate="2020-01-29T09:40:55.927" UserId="14294" Text="I am looking to build a system where many VR Headsets are remote controlled by one device on the same LAN. The idea is that all headsets boot directly into the slave app, which for now only shows a video after that is started on the remote control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want that each slave VR Headset automatically searches the network for a master remote, so it can poll to download new videos from it. After all slaves have the video file it can be started from the remote to run on all devices simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which VR Headset brands are best used to design such an app? Many seem especially restricive about booting into a 3rd party app by default. Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44835" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="8aa3761b-5c86-48e7-b50e-c05c2b0152db" CreationDate="2020-01-29T09:40:55.927" UserId="14294" Text="Most open VR Headsets for developers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44836" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="8aa3761b-5c86-48e7-b50e-c05c2b0152db" CreationDate="2020-01-29T09:40:55.927" UserId="14294" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44837" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12815" RevisionGUID="0bee4564-2f9e-4262-a2ac-29a449464518" CreationDate="2020-01-29T10:48:38.143" UserId="14295" Text="I am looking for a device which is able to route at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 inputs to at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 outputs (6x6 matrix). It should have an interface like ethernet or RS-232 to control the routing. There should be _no device emulation_ like KVM switches do, the simpler the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the only device I found which meets my needs is the [Smart-AVI MU-88][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the price of the device is far too much for the budget of my (private) project. Are there any cheaper devices with the same or at least nearly the same features?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://smartavi.com/mu-88/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44838" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12815" RevisionGUID="0bee4564-2f9e-4262-a2ac-29a449464518" CreationDate="2020-01-29T10:48:38.143" UserId="14295" Text="Cheap(er) 8x8 USB 2.0 matrix switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44839" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12815" RevisionGUID="0bee4564-2f9e-4262-a2ac-29a449464518" CreationDate="2020-01-29T10:48:38.143" UserId="14295" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12815" RevisionGUID="033a5891-a71d-4e7f-acee-8eff17a5373e" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:44:55.303" UserId="14295" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited title" Text="I am looking for a device which is able to route at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 inputs to at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 outputs (6x6 matrix). It should have an interface like ethernet or RS-232 to control the routing. There should be _no device emulation_ like KVM switches do, the simpler the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far the only device I found which meets my needs is the 8x8 matrix switch [Smart-AVI MU-88][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, the price of the device is far too much for the budget of my (private) project. Are there any cheaper devices with the same or at least nearly the same features?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://smartavi.com/mu-88/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44841" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12815" RevisionGUID="033a5891-a71d-4e7f-acee-8eff17a5373e" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:44:55.303" UserId="14295" Comment="added 18 characters in body; edited title" Text="Cheap 6x6 (or better) USB 2.0 matrix switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12816" RevisionGUID="a4da863c-1e50-4e7f-811a-0229b1fa34dc" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:50:11.703" UserId="1410" Text="So, now there is a $25 [hat with 4 @ 6 GBit/s SATA](https://www.notebookcheck.net/FriendlyElec-NanoPi-M4-The-Raspberry-Pi-alternative-can-now-be-used-as-a-NAS-for-just-US-25-thanks-to-a-new-HAT-expansion-board.410432.0.html) for the $50 [FriendlyElec NanoPi M4](https://www.friendlyarm.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;product_id=234)&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Hmm, that link speaks only of a 2gB version, whereas [this](https://www.androidpimp.com/boards/nanopi-m4-raspberry-pi-board-alternative/)  indicates that there is also a 4gB version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Total $75 to replace the desktop that I currently use as a server? What’s not to like? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given the SBCs available nowadays, does anyone know of batter bang/buck/simplicity way to create a NAS server at home? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must have sufficient RAM to handle multiple disks being accessed simultaneously (I would prefer 4 disks, but could live with 2, I guess). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I dn't mind it being dedicated as a NAS server, and wouldn't use it for anything else.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simplicity of setup plays a role (certainly no soldering involved), as does durability, cooling, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In my case, I would like to attach it to my router by Ethernet, but can forego that. It must, however, be WiFi accessible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxdYT.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44843" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12816" RevisionGUID="a4da863c-1e50-4e7f-811a-0229b1fa34dc" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:50:11.703" UserId="1410" Text="Cheapest multi-disk NAS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44844" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12816" RevisionGUID="a4da863c-1e50-4e7f-811a-0229b1fa34dc" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:50:11.703" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;sbc&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44845" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11906" RevisionGUID="87fb8446-9f58-4c63-b2c0-bb4e416bde28" CreationDate="2020-01-29T14:56:13.807" UserId="14282" Comment="Fixed incorrect information regarding the most current NVIDIA GPU generations." Text="The GTX 770 will be faster for video encoding and *most* GPU-accelerated applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It loses to the 960 in a lot of ways other than performance though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It requires much more power than the GTX 960. (600W vs 450W)&#xD;&#xA;2. No HDR support, and no HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;3. Models with 4GB VRAM are hard to come by.&#xD;&#xA;4. Older video codec support &amp; slower on-board encoding chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend buying a *6 year old* GPU unless it was super *cheap*.&#xD;&#xA;Even the 960 is starting to become hard to recommend itself if you compare it to the 2nd-most-current generation, like a 1050 ti. The current generation is the 16 and 20 series." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44846" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="11906" RevisionGUID="87fb8446-9f58-4c63-b2c0-bb4e416bde28" CreationDate="2020-01-29T14:56:13.807" Comment="Proposed by 14282 approved by -1 edit id of 1015" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11906" RevisionGUID="5fd1811d-31d4-4ff1-b727-9af56415b19b" CreationDate="2020-01-29T14:56:13.807" UserId="10648" Comment="Removed any mention of &quot;current&quot; generation so that the post is timeless." Text="The GTX 770 will be faster for video encoding and *most* GPU-accelerated applications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It loses to the 960 in a lot of ways other than performance though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. It requires much more power than the GTX 960. (600W vs 450W)&#xD;&#xA;2. No HDR support, and no HDMI 2.0&#xD;&#xA;3. Models with 4GB VRAM are hard to come by.&#xD;&#xA;4. Older video codec support &amp; slower on-board encoding chip.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not recommend buying a *6 year old* GPU unless it was super *cheap*.&#xD;&#xA;Even the 960 is starting to become hard to recommend itself if you compare it to the currently available GPUs near its performance such as the GTX 1050 Ti or GTX 1650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12818" RevisionGUID="2c19773c-3916-4b99-bdca-e1cd29535e12" CreationDate="2020-01-29T18:25:07.467" UserId="14282" Text="Null Byte, via WonderHowTo, has a nice article on the best wireless adapters for Kali Linux. Here are the listed compatible chipsets:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Atheros AR9271&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Ralink RT3070&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Ralink RT3572&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Realtek 8187L (Wireless G adapters)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * Realtek RTL8812AU (newly in 2017)&#xD;&#xA;&gt; * my research also suggests the Ralink RT5370N is compatible&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find direct purchase links (Amazon) in his article: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://null-byte.wonderhowto.com/how-to/buy-best-wireless-network-adapter-for-wi-fi-hacking-2019-0178550/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44857" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12819" RevisionGUID="35a359cb-6858-44a6-979f-fb9bca029886" CreationDate="2020-01-30T08:24:03.540" UserId="9528" Text="I'm looking for an alternative for RPi4 that seems not ready (yet?) to run run Qt/QML applications on framebuffer using hw acceleration. A lot of people have the same problems but no ones provide answers, so I'm afraid there's no much interest on both sides (Qt and RPi) to make the stuff available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a board with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* **run Qt5/QML applications without X, with GPU acceleration to play FullHD video** - hopefully with QtMultimedia&#xD;&#xA;* same GPU acceleration available for omxplayer (or another player that supports remote commands, transparency, etc...)&#xD;&#xA;* Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;* USB&#xD;&#xA;* a couple of GPIO&#xD;&#xA;* support for Buildroot config / Yocto meta-layers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44858" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12819" RevisionGUID="35a359cb-6858-44a6-979f-fb9bca029886" CreationDate="2020-01-30T08:24:03.540" UserId="9528" Text="Embedded board for Qt/QML" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44859" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12819" RevisionGUID="35a359cb-6858-44a6-979f-fb9bca029886" CreationDate="2020-01-30T08:24:03.540" UserId="9528" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12820" RevisionGUID="84c7da9b-37d0-49eb-8e0f-dd21301d91b9" CreationDate="2020-01-30T21:37:15.647" UserId="1873" Text="I've successfully written and ran a Qt/QML application (albeit with a simple interface) on a custom baseboard for the CM3 running Raspbian Lite without X. Not through framebuffer but using the VC `.so`s provided for the Pi. If you used framebuffer on the Pi you likely used Qt without hardware acceleration. Qt has a separate QPA backend using VC libraries directly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are alternatives, but they are usually development kits and SoMs with their carrier boards rather then SBCs. Those are targeted at professionals who design custom devices with such processors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can for example look at [Toradex i.MX 6 Quad SoM](https://www.toradex.com/computer-on-modules/apalis-arm-family/nxp-freescale-imx-6#overview) which is a Qt reference platform. They have [Yocto support too](https://www.toradex.com/blog/building-custom-embedded-linux-distributions). The SoM with it's carrier board will set you back about 200 euro though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The official [i.MX 6Quad Sabre board](https://www.nxp.com/design/development-boards/i.mx-evaluation-and-development-boards/sabre-board-for-smart-devices-based-on-the-i.mx-6quad-applications-processors:RD-IMX6Q-SABRE) is 450$. And that's for SoCs which tend to be on the cheaper end of the range for their performance point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from the i.MX there are other series of SoCs which you can look at with their own SoMs and devkits, such as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [STM32MP1](https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/evaluation-tools/product-evaluation-tools/mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-discovery-kits/stm32mp157a-dk1.html), though those are new SoCs on the market and historically their MCU (ST didn't have MPUs on the market for quite some time) code quality was not satisfactory for me&#xD;&#xA;- The [Beaglebone series](https://beagleboard.org/bone), they have weak CPUs but some quick Google suggests people have successfully ran Qt with QML on them (although the most powerful, BeagleBone AI, has no Yocto support as far as my searches indicated). Or other Texas Instruments processors in general.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest option would be the BeagleBone Black which is also the only hobbyist/maker board which has a chance of fulfilling your requirements that I know of.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from the Pi's BCM2 every other SoC mentioned above has full documentation available (I often compare BCM283x's measly 150 pages to total 6k pages of datasheet+manual of the Sitara SoC found in the Beaglebone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, there is a lot of maker boards with Allwinner or Rokchip SoCs but those are not fully open AFAIK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source: general knowledge gathered from working professionally with embedded systems (both Linux and MCUs)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="44d1acad-fea8-4d8f-98bc-afa664002ad8" CreationDate="2020-01-31T06:43:28.577" UserId="14294" Comment="added 139 characters in body" Text="I am looking to build a system where many VR Headsets are remote controlled by one device on the same LAN. The idea is that all headsets boot directly into the slave app, which for now only shows a video after that is started on the remote control. Ideally I am looking for standalone devices like the Oculus Go, but some comfort like wireless could be sacrificed for improved usability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want that each slave VR Headset automatically searches the network for a master remote, so it can poll to download new videos from it. After all slaves have the video file it can be started from the remote to run on all devices simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which VR Headset brands are best used to design such an app? Many seem especially restricive about booting into a 3rd party app by default. Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44866" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11929" RevisionGUID="9c2a05a4-8138-46ef-b9b5-f245dacca3bb" CreationDate="2020-01-31T07:01:50.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44867" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="1f6514f3-c2dd-4f38-9a62-d3bd1c85e4c2" CreationDate="2020-01-31T10:01:50.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44872" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="b07891dc-054f-43a8-b8c7-bdfa5e7e994d" CreationDate="2020-01-31T17:03:05.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44874" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="93508da4-2f1d-4f02-b03c-0aba0135f5fc" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:10:14.157" UserId="14233" Text="wide colot gumput? &#xD;&#xA;white variation?&#xD;&#xA;haze 44% ?&#xD;&#xA;I am not sure I truly understand what they mean. Which values are better when picking a laptop matrix?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44875" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="93508da4-2f1d-4f02-b03c-0aba0135f5fc" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:10:14.157" UserId="14233" Text="explain laptop matrix parameters wide colot gumput, white variation, haze?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44876" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="93508da4-2f1d-4f02-b03c-0aba0135f5fc" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:10:14.157" UserId="14233" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44880" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="d8693158-1c09-4d85-abdd-710f6c9bbaef" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:21:53.220" UserId="10648" Comment="Fixed spelling, reformatted to make question more clear." Text="I am not sure I truly understand what these specs mean for a laptop LCD matrix:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wide color gamut&#xD;&#xA;- White variation&#xD;&#xA;- &quot;Haze&quot; 44%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which values are better when picking a screen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44881" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="d8693158-1c09-4d85-abdd-710f6c9bbaef" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:21:53.220" UserId="10648" Comment="Fixed spelling, reformatted to make question more clear." Text="Laptop matrix parameters like wide color gamut, white variation, haze?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44882" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12824" RevisionGUID="d8693158-1c09-4d85-abdd-710f6c9bbaef" CreationDate="2020-01-31T20:21:53.220" Comment="Proposed by 10648 approved by 14233 edit id of 1016" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44886" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12825" RevisionGUID="470c796a-2cb5-458d-9dc2-c48e410bddfd" CreationDate="2020-02-01T02:10:33.300" UserId="14275" Text="Here is a simplified explanation of each specification and their effect:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wide Color Gamut (WCG)**: This simply is a qualitative measure of the number of colors the LCD display can use as opposed to the standard [Rec.709][1] gamut. This generally means more vibrant colors, as opposed to a standard display. This is because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The color palette itself bigger.&#xD;&#xA; 2. It uses a higher bit depth (8bit, 10bit, etc.), which signifies how many steps of each color a TV has available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should use a LCD display with a WCG for a better picture and color fidelity. If this isn't necessary then go for a standard Rec.709 gamut. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**White variation**: It is the difference in luminance of the LCD at different spots of the LCD screen. Refer to this note:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, a higher white variation means difference in the white brightness in individual spots of a fixed viewing angle. This should be the lowest possible for visual accuracy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Haze**: This refers to [Reflective Haze][3]. Haze is the measure of how much reflections are diffused.  A higher haze rating usually means an anti-glare coating which is increasingly matte. This generally makes colors less pop out, but with a decrease in reflections. &#xD;&#xA;Here is a comparison picture of different levels of haze and the effects on reflections and color: &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Generally, under high ambient light, a higher haze is better for increased readability and visual acuity. If there is little chance of reflections or no ambient light is needed, then the haze percentage doesn't need a higher than 25%. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._709&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiE19.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haze_(optics)#Reflection_Haze&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/viHH7l.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44887" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12825" RevisionGUID="6a9aaf60-eebd-4f3f-91ec-15d0a39a65e4" CreationDate="2020-02-01T02:16:28.407" UserId="14275" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="Here is a simplified explanation of each specification and their effect:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wide Color Gamut (WCG)**: This simply is a qualitative measure of the number of colors the LCD display can use as opposed to the standard [Rec.709][1] gamut. This generally means more vibrant colors, as opposed to a standard display. This is because:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The color palette itself bigger.&#xD;&#xA; 2. It uses a higher bit depth (8bit, 10bit, etc.), which signifies how many steps of each color a TV has available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should use a LCD display with a WCG for a better picture and color fidelity. If this isn't necessary then go for a standard Rec.709 gamut. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**White variation**: It is the difference in luminance of the LCD at different spots of the LCD screen. Refer to this note:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, a higher white variation means difference in the white brightness in individual spots of a fixed viewing angle. This should be the lowest possible for visual accuracy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Haze**: This refers to [Reflective Haze][3]. Haze is the measure of how much reflections are diffused.  A higher haze rating usually means an anti-glare coating which is increasingly matte. This generally makes colors less pop out, but with a decrease in reflections. &#xD;&#xA;Here is a comparison picture of different levels of haze and the effects on reflections and color: &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Generally, under high ambient light, a higher haze is better for increased readability and visual acuity. If there is little chance of reflections or no ambient light is needed, then the haze percentage doesn't need a higher than 25%, which increases apparent color accuracy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._709&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiE19.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haze_(optics)#Reflection_Haze&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/viHH7l.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44889" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="c02fe93b-85d2-404e-9f2d-014fc4b86144" CreationDate="2020-02-01T07:01:50.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12826" RevisionGUID="406b7b88-9184-47d5-8622-b0d2b0deb8b1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T11:07:55.000" UserId="14311" Text="on my monitor now I'm on 0% brightness and during the day it's ok for me, but at night is much too bright, and **I don't know at what specs to look at when buying a new monitor that will be able to get much lower brightness**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I switched from a sony vaio laptop with TN screen to a MVA monitor (Benq EW2430)&#xD;&#xA;and 0% brightness is ok for me during the day, but sometimes, evening/night I need it much lower brightness. I'm trying to pick a new monitor but I don't know how to choose one so that it would be able to provide a much lower brightness lower boundary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will also be nice if I could control the monitor brightness from windows 10 right side bar (that you open when clicking button next to the clock), like with laptops, in my current one I can control the brightness only by touching the monitor physical buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**please note:** &#xD;&#xA;I can change the brightness in the video card settings but it's not the same as actually lowering monitor brightness, I would prefer to buy a new monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44893" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12826" RevisionGUID="406b7b88-9184-47d5-8622-b0d2b0deb8b1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T11:07:55.000" UserId="14311" Text="how to pick a lower brightness monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44894" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12826" RevisionGUID="406b7b88-9184-47d5-8622-b0d2b0deb8b1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T11:07:55.000" UserId="14311" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44895" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="18ac2a5b-7160-44df-bc2a-3af9c88c4a42" CreationDate="2020-02-01T16:03:00.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="e8f5b829-880f-45d2-b1ad-0bf24e60f8a4" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:09:34.370" UserId="14317" Text="**Idk if this is the right site to ask, correct me if im wrong :)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hello guys, i'm about to change my iphone 5s to some android based phone :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is around 100-150$. I'm not from US or UK so prices are bit different.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm ok with used phones btw. In my region (Belarus) i can buy Redmi Note 7 for about 130$ (this is my current pick)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was wondering if there's any better solution for me" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44905" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="e8f5b829-880f-45d2-b1ad-0bf24e60f8a4" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:09:34.370" UserId="14317" Text="Any budget android phones?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44906" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="e8f5b829-880f-45d2-b1ad-0bf24e60f8a4" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:09:34.370" UserId="14317" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12830" RevisionGUID="789dd4c3-b9ec-4bdb-824f-3c5787abe7eb" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:13:58.987" UserId="1808" Text="Looking for nvdimm but in the sodimm form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Didn t found anything beside normal dimm. So I don t care about capacity or type first." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44908" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12830" RevisionGUID="789dd4c3-b9ec-4bdb-824f-3c5787abe7eb" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:13:58.987" UserId="1808" Text="Nvdimm memory but for laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44909" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12830" RevisionGUID="789dd4c3-b9ec-4bdb-824f-3c5787abe7eb" CreationDate="2020-02-02T17:13:58.987" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12831" RevisionGUID="2b3a6683-3f8b-47eb-97c1-94c7a80b5279" CreationDate="2020-02-02T19:27:44.923" UserId="14318" Text="I have long wanted a GPS receiver that is either integrated with an NTP server, or compatible with a device like a Raspberry PI, including PPS signals.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Until a few years ago, you could only go buy an integrated unit for $2000-$6000, including an oven controlled crystal.  While this is appropriate for a large enterprise server, I'm wanting one for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More recently, I have found $300 units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is a $15 to $35 (or maybe to $50) unit.  Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44911" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12831" RevisionGUID="2b3a6683-3f8b-47eb-97c1-94c7a80b5279" CreationDate="2020-02-02T19:27:44.923" UserId="14318" Text="GPS receiver compatible with NTP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44912" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12831" RevisionGUID="2b3a6683-3f8b-47eb-97c1-94c7a80b5279" CreationDate="2020-02-02T19:27:44.923" UserId="14318" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44913" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12831" RevisionGUID="00d6ac74-e943-4160-941d-44fb4eae87df" CreationDate="2020-02-02T23:57:18.113" UserId="14318" Comment="incorporate the various discussion items into the question.  " Text="I have long wanted a GPS receiver that is either integrated with an NTP server, or compatible with a device like a Raspberry PI, including PPS signals.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Until a few years ago, you could only go buy an integrated unit for $2000-$6000, including an oven controlled crystal.  While this is appropriate for a large enterprise server, I'm wanting one for home use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More recently, I have found $300 units.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am looking for is a $15 to $35 (or maybe to $50) unit.  Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Edits:#&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The purpose here is to run a stratum 1 NTP server.  This would then provide time to all my computers.  I would like NTP precision of at least 15 (30 microseconds).   19 or 20 (2 or 1 microseconds) would be better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am expecting I will have to assemble something with a Raspberry PI or Beagle Bone, but would prefer a prebuilt unit if anyone knows of one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Obviously, a serial interface will not get that precision, but the PPS interface can.  PPS is pulse per second, a once per second microsecond precise pulse usually connected to an interrupt on a host computer (or ignored if you don't care about time precision).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;###Related rants:###&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if adafruit hadn't decided to only support one expensive GPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be nice if there were a SOC including a CPU and GPS, so the CPU could read the GPS time registers directly.   That might achieve an NTP precision of 26 (16 nanosecond or about 5 meters)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12832" RevisionGUID="98b28d9c-fa89-467f-a07e-c7b22273da19" CreationDate="2020-02-03T02:02:23.543" UserId="14319" Text="New to programming and current development environment is on an iMac (schools). Looking at purchasing a Mac Book Pro 16 inch and I have been able to research all of the other hardware questions I had but how much RAM is actually needed. I will be developing apps in Xcode and Android Studio using emulators, as well as some VM's for Laravel projects. The iMac is from 2013 and doesn't run great so I can't really use that as a baseline. Key points, I'm not looking to waste money on memory that I won't use, for future-proofing only looking at a 2-3 year commitment, and other than using Xcode I know PCs are cheaper but I prefer Mac's setup." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44916" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12832" RevisionGUID="98b28d9c-fa89-467f-a07e-c7b22273da19" CreationDate="2020-02-03T02:02:23.543" UserId="14319" Text="Purchasing a Mac Book Pro 16 inch, trying to figure out how much RAM I will need" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44917" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12832" RevisionGUID="98b28d9c-fa89-467f-a07e-c7b22273da19" CreationDate="2020-02-03T02:02:23.543" UserId="14319" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44918" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="29077919-697a-44d9-9125-7a75d313c3ea" CreationDate="2020-02-03T04:04:25.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44919" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12833" RevisionGUID="6d151938-9de0-4504-ade2-a1a0f931c744" CreationDate="2020-02-03T04:47:16.230" UserId="14275" Text="There is always a use for more RAM. I always suggest getting the most possible. All depends on the budget. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the bare minimum I'd recommend: 16GB of RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Xcode Studio: 8GB recommended &#xD;&#xA; - Android Studio : 8 GB recommended&#xD;&#xA; - Laravel: 4GB or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB of RAM is the base spec of the Macbook Pro 16. Which is good enough for most people. Unless you run Xcode, Android Studio and Laravel all at the same time (which would probably kill your CPU anyways), you should never have issues with lack of RAM. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44920" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11052" RevisionGUID="382dd7a1-0dc7-4500-a845-2e0504218777" CreationDate="2020-02-03T05:02:40.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44923" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="b9889c91-c843-4c0c-9c85-9e7ea707bdd2" CreationDate="2020-02-03T19:01:40.170" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44925" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12834" RevisionGUID="03698310-2eca-4fab-9f80-fba0a0a0af7c" CreationDate="2020-02-03T19:42:43.490" UserId="14322" Text="I'm looking for mini (micro) PC with low parameters just enough to run Linux. I found some devices, but too strong and mostly without GSM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required parameters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Processor architecture to run Linux&#xD;&#xA;+ Memory at least 2GB&#xD;&#xA;+ USB 2/3 port&#xD;&#xA;+ Ethernet 100&#xD;&#xA;+ GSM SIM card (alternate data channel)&#xD;&#xA;+ SSD memory card at least 5GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be middle agent for trasmitting data from sensors (company lan/usb) to cloud on internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know raspberrypi device, which is perfect with parameters, but i am not sure, it is good enough for industry enviroment (24h/day).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank You for any recommends" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44926" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12834" RevisionGUID="03698310-2eca-4fab-9f80-fba0a0a0af7c" CreationDate="2020-02-03T19:42:43.490" UserId="14322" Text="Linux miniPC for collecting data from sensors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44927" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12834" RevisionGUID="03698310-2eca-4fab-9f80-fba0a0a0af7c" CreationDate="2020-02-03T19:42:43.490" UserId="14322" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12835" RevisionGUID="57afe4fe-eac4-4bdc-bc6f-67e23764bc82" CreationDate="2020-02-03T20:08:34.963" UserId="14282" Text="A Raspberry Pi or Intel NUC would be your best bets. You would have to purchase a HAT or USB GSM module for the Pi. The NUC will accept the USB version. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44929" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11092" RevisionGUID="28129896-9e56-4185-ae51-a5089cb40e13" CreationDate="2020-02-04T01:02:15.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="44930" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12834" RevisionGUID="73b7dfbe-d6fb-48c3-a453-0ecc6e78b68a" CreationDate="2020-02-04T09:45:13.063" UserId="14322" Comment="added 159 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for mini (micro) PC with low parameters just enough to run Linux. I found some devices, but too strong and mostly without GSM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required parameters:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;+ Processor architecture to run Linux&#xD;&#xA;+ Memory at least 2GB&#xD;&#xA;+ USB 2/3 port&#xD;&#xA;+ Ethernet 100&#xD;&#xA;+ GSM SIM card (alternate data channel)&#xD;&#xA;+ SSD memory card at least 5GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be middle agent for trasmitting data from sensors (company lan/usb) to cloud on internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know raspberrypi device, which is perfect with parameters, but i am not sure, it is good enough for industry enviroment (24h/day).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank You for any recommends&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- UPDATE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally i found first product with all interfaces&#xD;&#xA;https://www.axotec.de/en/products/4g-lte-iot-gateway/industrial-computer-rgx-840-flex.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44931" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12836" RevisionGUID="513641f6-d50e-4608-b2ae-2a3726da9c99" CreationDate="2020-02-04T14:24:35.253" UserId="14282" Text="Any B450, X470, or X570 motherboard will work with your Ryzen 5 2600. In addition, you could flash the BIOS of a B350 or X370 board, although getting one of the first three chipsets will mean out-of-box compatibility. I personally like ASUS boards, although Asrock, Gigabyte, and MSI tend to make decent boards as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a couple recommendations off of the top of my head, but be sure to do some research to see which boards meet your needs and price point best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- MSI B450M Pro-VHD Max&#xD;&#xA;- ASUS B450M-PLUS TUF Gaming&#xD;&#xA;- Gigabyte B450 AORUS M&#xD;&#xA;- ASRock X570M PRO4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12837" RevisionGUID="673c1671-5d42-43dd-8ce0-170ffa0b2d04" CreationDate="2020-02-04T15:34:06.110" UserId="14282" Text="I would recommend a powered USB hub. They come with a detachable power cable to provide extra electricity when needed, great for driving power-hungry devices such as portable Hard Drives. Here are a few examples from Amazon:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [TP-Link 9 Port USB 3.0][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [BYEASY 4 Port USB 3.0][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [Sabrent 4 Port USB 3.0 with Individual Switches][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-UH720-7-Port-Smart-Charging/dp/B00SCX6I8A/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Powered-BYEASY-Charging-Splitter-Notebook/dp/B07M91R8PN/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12839" RevisionGUID="6a222c8b-012e-4560-b47e-c0fadc7faf2f" CreationDate="2020-02-04T15:57:08.990" UserId="14282" Text="HDMI carries audio, so your laptop should be able to output the audio the same way your Xbox and Nintendo Switch are able to. Be sure to select the audio extractor as your sound output on your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now if you decide that you STILL want an audio switcher, this [Nobsound Little Bear][1] is pretty popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.ca/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B0787X4J4V/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44935" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12840" RevisionGUID="24c7ecb4-748c-4ad1-bffe-d86a4d6cdafa" CreationDate="2020-02-04T16:12:09.343" UserId="14282" Text="I know you were more interested in a wireless solution, but if you decide to go the wired route you can use an HDMI over Ethernet Extender. With the [Cable Matters Extender][1], you can achieve 1080p @ 60hz with a max range of 300ft. There are other manufactures (such as IOGear) that make the same type of device, including 4K versions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00OZV04BK][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00OZV04BK&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvQBb.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44939" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12842" RevisionGUID="1715c3fc-8787-42f2-89fe-68b79da67bd9" CreationDate="2020-02-04T17:16:57.177" UserId="14280" Text="I use this [Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub][1] that would have no issues doing what you want, but due to the 3 power only ports at the bottom, it needs to be plugged in with a wall adapter. I have a mouse, Dolby 7.1 Headset, and multiple 24/7 active USB flash drives, and a 3.1 Western Digital 5400rpm drive attached, and I have no issues running these.  To my knowledge Anker doesn't provide a hub that will allow a stable connection from the power on a USB 3.0 port alone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.anker.com/products/variant/anker-10-port-60w-data-hub/A7515111" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44940" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12843" RevisionGUID="86589073-d035-49a1-bf15-4c6ba89b9627" CreationDate="2020-02-04T19:19:12.783" UserId="10648" Text="[NVDIMM](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVDIMM) is a new type of non-volatile memory designed to be compliant with full-sized DIMMs. It is part of the JEDEC standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If such a thing existed for SO-DIMM, it should be called NVSODIMM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVSODIMM [does not exist](https://www.google.com/search?q=%22NVSODIMM%22) as of February, 2020 when this answer was written.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My guess is that SO-DIMM modules are rarely used by servers, so there is not a large enough market for non-volatile SO-DIMM modules for any company to make them right now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44941" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12843" RevisionGUID="a524ad70-1f13-42ee-897b-1a2b73e12ff9" CreationDate="2020-02-04T19:25:19.110" UserId="10648" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="[NVDIMM](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVDIMM) is a new type of non-volatile memory designed to be compliant with full-sized DIMMs. It is part of the JEDEC standard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If such a thing existed for SO-DIMM, it would probably be called NVSODIMM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NVSODIMM [does not exist](https://www.google.com/search?q=%22NVSODIMM%22) as of February, 2020 when this answer was written.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find any other trademark or official name for non-volatile SODIMM memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My guess is that the non-volatile memory is mostly being sold to big-business customers that run servers. Most of those servers would be using DIMMs, and the portion of servers using SODIMM is too small to justify the cost of designing and manufacturing something like &quot;NVSODIMM&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44948" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12845" RevisionGUID="ae56f7a8-d4d0-4c17-a0ef-a1ac87e6dc5c" CreationDate="2020-02-05T05:11:54.867" UserId="5194" Text="After trying multiple headsets, earphones, and any other shape of wireless audio device, with issues each time, I realized I have two choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. To spend another $40,000 dollars in the hope of finding the one perfect headset.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Get a decent recommendation from someone who already owns one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So here I am. My requirements are, I would have thought, simple. But surprisingly rare in practice:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Wireless. Duh. Should connect to a PC, so USB dongle or base station is okay.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Has a microphone. On the headset, not the dongle/base station.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Sounds better than a radio.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Sounds better than a radio while using the microphone. Seems like a &quot;duh&quot;, but this pretty much rules out all Bluetooth-based devices, except those using proprietary technology like FastStream.&#xD;&#xA; 5. No white noise or buzzing when the audio output is silent. I don't constantly have sound playing, and I don't want to have to take my headset on and off depending on my sound usage at the moment. This tends to rule out many RF-based ones, which seem to have mild white noise when the audio is silent.&#xD;&#xA; 6. No auto-off. This rules out pretty much all European ones, since EU regulations require broadcast stations to turn off after 5 minutes of silence. But like I said above, I don't listen non-stop, and I don't want to hack an inaudible sound just to prevent my headset from shutting off.&#xD;&#xA; 7. Can listen while charging. I don't always remember to charge my headset, and the last thing I want is a forced 15 minute break from my computer, because the headset automatically turns off as soon as it's connected via USB (Why is this even a thing!?)&#xD;&#xA; 8. Reasonably durable. Should last at least several months before breaking. Again, I too would have thought this was obvious, but *cough* Creative *cough* Logitech *cough*.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Both ear pieces can produce audio at the same volume out of the box. I mean, I don't see how that would be a &quot;feature&quot;, but my recently owned Creative Outlier Sports couldn't produce half the volume with the right ear piece as the left, so...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not particular about the shape, but if it's in-ear, I'd rather drivers that are less than 5mm, so they actually fit in the ear canal. If over-ear, I'd prefer material that doesn't gradually disintegrate, leaving pieces of itself everywhere.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, most of the &quot;features&quot; I'm looking for don't appear in technical specs, and some of them are hard to find even in user reviews. I'm tired of gambling (and losing), so I'd really appreciate if someone can confirm owning a headset that satisfies all of the above." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44949" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12845" RevisionGUID="ae56f7a8-d4d0-4c17-a0ef-a1ac87e6dc5c" CreationDate="2020-02-05T05:11:54.867" UserId="5194" Text="Looking for a simple wireless headset with microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44950" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12845" RevisionGUID="ae56f7a8-d4d0-4c17-a0ef-a1ac87e6dc5c" CreationDate="2020-02-05T05:11:54.867" UserId="5194" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44951" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="7073d69f-d1d1-4673-884d-ade870946290" CreationDate="2020-02-05T08:01:37.237" UserId="14329" Text="I want to upgrade my Lenovo thinkpad x220 with an SSD, but I'm not sure how much memory should I target, maybe around 200-300 Gb should be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What product do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44952" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="7073d69f-d1d1-4673-884d-ade870946290" CreationDate="2020-02-05T08:01:37.237" UserId="14329" Text="What's the most recommended SSD for a Lenovo thinkpad x200?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44953" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="7073d69f-d1d1-4673-884d-ade870946290" CreationDate="2020-02-05T08:01:37.237" UserId="14329" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44954" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="06db0b1f-7284-438f-9374-738fbb1d67dd" CreationDate="2020-02-05T08:13:16.090" UserId="14329" Comment="edited title" Text="What's the most recommended SSD for a Lenovo thinkpad x220?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44959" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12848" RevisionGUID="5a58f593-7abb-4d18-9b2d-22f5ce315b8b" CreationDate="2020-02-05T14:28:46.690" UserId="3815" Text="I'm currently eyeing the A and H lines of SoCs produced by allwinnertech.com, for use in an affordable, yet high performance game console.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have considered using multiple SoCs in one design to get greater performance, but I'm worried about hardware redundancy in functions like connectivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, instead I'm considering a design utilizing a single SoC and some number of soon to be selected CoProcessors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Issue is I don't know where to find the CoProcessors. I know graphics coprocessors exists, in the form of GPU chips, but I need something affordable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for more ICs in the Allwinner's price range, which are better specialized for compute, both graphics and general purpose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44960" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12848" RevisionGUID="5a58f593-7abb-4d18-9b2d-22f5ce315b8b" CreationDate="2020-02-05T14:28:46.690" UserId="3815" Text="Looking for CoProcessors to go along side an Allwinner SoC in a budget Game Console" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44961" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12848" RevisionGUID="5a58f593-7abb-4d18-9b2d-22f5ce315b8b" CreationDate="2020-02-05T14:28:46.690" UserId="3815" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;video-game-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12849" RevisionGUID="a557cf9a-74d1-40ee-985b-43c49235ac85" CreationDate="2020-02-05T15:36:04.783" UserId="14282" Text="The Samsung SSDs tend to have the best reputation. Crucial is a close second. I would recommend the [Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5&quot; SSD][1]. After the 860 EVO, I would recommend the [Crucial MX 500 250GB SSD][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-250GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0764WCXCV/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44964" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12851" RevisionGUID="4acc7331-b119-4087-879b-19c018f73caa" CreationDate="2020-02-05T17:27:29.427" UserId="1873" Text="After our discussion in comments and looking at your requirements - you probably want to go with the nVidia Tegra. As a SoM not as a bare SoC. That's roughly the chip which powers the Nintendo Switch. They did port the Witcher onto it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12852" RevisionGUID="a5362ddc-875b-4a75-9c54-0a8137b9d94f" CreationDate="2020-02-05T18:11:43.260" UserId="7816" Text="Is it possible to achieve the functionality of a Chromecast with an SBC? Including the feature of screen casting from different devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12852" RevisionGUID="a5362ddc-875b-4a75-9c54-0a8137b9d94f" CreationDate="2020-02-05T18:11:43.260" UserId="7816" Text="Is it possible to achieve the functionality of a Chromecast with an SBC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12852" RevisionGUID="a5362ddc-875b-4a75-9c54-0a8137b9d94f" CreationDate="2020-02-05T18:11:43.260" UserId="7816" Text="&lt;sbc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44971" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12854" RevisionGUID="e754c6b4-4fc7-4e30-b3ed-ef1b99bde287" CreationDate="2020-02-05T23:52:35.037" UserId="1734" Text="I'm looking for a single-board computer with seemingly simple requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Gigabit ethernet port &#xD;&#xA; * Ethernet port supports HW timestamping for PTP and NTP&#xD;&#xA; * Low power usage&#xD;&#xA; * Few GPIO pins&#xD;&#xA; * The ethernet interface is not USB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched for a while, but it's very annoying to search because HW timestamping and if the ethernet is connected to USB or not is rarely listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Maybe someone here knows any good devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44972" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12854" RevisionGUID="e754c6b4-4fc7-4e30-b3ed-ef1b99bde287" CreationDate="2020-02-05T23:52:35.037" UserId="1734" Text="Single-board low-power computer with gigabit port that has HW timestamping support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44973" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12854" RevisionGUID="e754c6b4-4fc7-4e30-b3ed-ef1b99bde287" CreationDate="2020-02-05T23:52:35.037" UserId="1734" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44974" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12855" RevisionGUID="0f358f9c-4ffc-4049-8f0f-2fd8c09d5cbb" CreationDate="2020-02-06T10:07:41.393" UserId="14109" Text="I found 2 prices. [Here](https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Zephyrus-Validated-i7-8750H-Pro-GX701GX-XS76/dp/B07M9SN4CD) and [here](https://m.alibaba.com/product/62221008550/NEW-2019-RTX-2080-gaming-laptop.html?tracelog=null) and I wonder how such laptop can be available for such price. Is this would come defected/fake specs. I noticed that goods from China are much cheaper but didn't think that difference can be such huge. Maybe I miss something." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44975" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12855" RevisionGUID="0f358f9c-4ffc-4049-8f0f-2fd8c09d5cbb" CreationDate="2020-02-06T10:07:41.393" UserId="14109" Text="Can ROG Zephyrus S GX701 cost 400$?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44976" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12855" RevisionGUID="0f358f9c-4ffc-4049-8f0f-2fd8c09d5cbb" CreationDate="2020-02-06T10:07:41.393" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44977" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12856" RevisionGUID="b225a18a-d25e-4233-9aff-dafe58054be2" CreationDate="2020-02-06T11:21:47.647" UserId="14334" Text="Would someone be able to recommend a reliable tool that I could use in order to test if a network point is live please?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need something that's very easy to use. Preferable something hand-held, that I can plug into a network point in my office and e.g. will light up green if the point is active, and red it not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know I can achieve the same thing by plugging in any network device with a network connection (e.g a laptop), but I don't have access to other devices all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I know the cabling is all Cat 5 or 7 and standard rj45 connection type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the tools I see are quite advanced and come with various addons and pieces that I will never use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44978" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12856" RevisionGUID="b225a18a-d25e-4233-9aff-dafe58054be2" CreationDate="2020-02-06T11:21:47.647" UserId="14334" Text="Network Point Tester" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44979" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12856" RevisionGUID="b225a18a-d25e-4233-9aff-dafe58054be2" CreationDate="2020-02-06T11:21:47.647" UserId="14334" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12857" RevisionGUID="4e1a4037-ad32-49e8-8b00-1c1ab3bc8776" CreationDate="2020-02-06T16:59:11.247" UserId="14275" Text="I think the simplest solution would be to use something like this:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simply plug the USB connector into a 5V portable power source, or a wall adapter. The LED lights should detect if there's activity on the network. These sell for less than 10$ at most suppliers. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLH9Hm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44987" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="a2cc617a-f167-448f-af98-c40f67e6f106" CreationDate="2020-02-06T21:19:57.770" UserId="14280" Comment="Improved formatting and spelling" Text="**Idk if this is the right site to ask, correct me if im wrong :)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm about to change my iPhone 5S to some android based phone. My budget is about 150$. I'm from Belarus, so that might affect what phones are available for me. I'm looking at a Redmi Note 7 for around $130 dollars. I was wondering if there are better phones out there that would work for what I need. I am okay with getting a used phone also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phone needs to be comfortable for me to use, 4G capabilities (Don't want to downgrade in download/upload speeds)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44988" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="a2cc617a-f167-448f-af98-c40f67e6f106" CreationDate="2020-02-06T21:19:57.770" UserId="14280" Comment="Improved formatting and spelling" Text="Budget android phone to upgrade to from an iPhone 5S" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44989" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="a2cc617a-f167-448f-af98-c40f67e6f106" CreationDate="2020-02-06T21:19:57.770" Comment="Proposed by 14280 approved by 14317 edit id of 1018" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44990" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="48cb3d63-2524-4cee-a705-1f840d5ec2f4" CreationDate="2020-02-06T21:23:10.537" UserId="14317" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="**Idk if this is the right site to ask, correct me if im wrong :)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm about to change my iPhone 5S to some android based phone. My budget is about 150$. I'm from Belarus, so that might affect what phones are available for me. I'm looking at a Redmi Note 7 for around $130 dollars. I was wondering if there are better phones out there that would work for what I need. I am okay with getting a used phone also. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phone should be &lt;=6.2&quot;, with fingerprint sensor ofc, and a good battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The phone needs to be comfortable for me to use, 4G capabilities (Don't want to downgrade in download/upload speeds)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44994" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12860" RevisionGUID="142743a2-2a95-4730-820c-f896d6413d7a" CreationDate="2020-02-07T02:39:43.663" UserId="6213" Text="I have to fix a Thinkpad X250 back cover that's cracked. I have on hand a X260 back cover, but would have to order one for the X250. &#xA;&#xA;From various product pages I see hints that X240/X250 use the same exact back cover, while the X260 is not mentioned. &#xA;&#xA;Can anyone advise?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44995" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12860" RevisionGUID="142743a2-2a95-4730-820c-f896d6413d7a" CreationDate="2020-02-07T02:39:43.663" UserId="6213" Text="Thinkpad X250 to X260 back cover compatibility?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44996" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12860" RevisionGUID="142743a2-2a95-4730-820c-f896d6413d7a" CreationDate="2020-02-07T02:39:43.663" UserId="6213" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45000" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12633" RevisionGUID="f5d249c5-3850-4d69-b9bf-b84a728c4337" CreationDate="2020-02-07T05:19:11.357" UserId="378" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;smart-home&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45001" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12861" RevisionGUID="a4a02a48-8788-4fcf-9f13-df774e3a8bf4" CreationDate="2020-02-07T05:20:21.387" UserId="14275" Text="Back cover is quite vague. The LCD back cover? It isn't compatible:&#xD;&#xA;[![x250][1]][1][![X260][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The antenna placement isn't the same. Also, the hinge isn't the correct type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are talking about the back (bottom cover), it isn't compatible either:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB ports are not all at the same location. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eI4Cm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9k8ym.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJBUTm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/232Uum.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45002" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12862" RevisionGUID="caa6af65-f1da-4854-adc5-1b56d4795371" CreationDate="2020-02-07T07:06:18.610" UserId="14257" Text="I'm a full-time web developer working mostly with Microsoft stack and sometimes various other applications. I wanted to purchase a new laptop, and there is confusion between different laptops I have reviewed online.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my requirement &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- I wanted to have a laptop which can run applications for .NET development (VS 2017, SQL Server, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;- My spouse wanted a Linux OS for ROR(ruby and rails) development.&#xD;&#xA;- The machine should be portable, so we can carry it along with us every day.&#xD;&#xA;- It should handle the heavy load (programming, not gaming)&#xD;&#xA;- Decent battery life &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required configuration&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB RAM &#xD;&#xA; - i5 9Gen &#xD;&#xA; - 250-512GB SSD &#xD;&#xA; - C Type ports&#xD;&#xA; - Thunderbolt 3 port (nice to have) &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I have searched accordingly our requirements, and found few options though, a signal option doesn't fit in our requirement or budget. We've limited budget of USD $2000 + $200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the options&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Macbook Pro:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Macbook is the middle option, we both can use for our development, however, previous version of .NET(.net framework) wouldn't be supported. Hence, need to installed other software in order to run those applications, or it might happen that some applications wouldn't supported at all. Running VMs for development is a not good option either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy two laptops separately  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to buy one windows laptop and one Linux laptop. And here are the option for Windows laptops&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dell XPS 13 - Over budget &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Asus ZenBook - Over budget and mixed review &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Razer Blade 15 - No support where I live &lt;br/&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any good suggestion? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45003" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12862" RevisionGUID="caa6af65-f1da-4854-adc5-1b56d4795371" CreationDate="2020-02-07T07:06:18.610" UserId="14257" Text="Recommendation for a new laptop to use in development day to day life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45004" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12862" RevisionGUID="caa6af65-f1da-4854-adc5-1b56d4795371" CreationDate="2020-02-07T07:06:18.610" UserId="14257" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45005" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12863" RevisionGUID="937d0fe6-6c05-4c74-a905-5f6f39559aba" CreationDate="2020-02-07T12:43:41.040" UserId="14340" Text="I'm building a rig over at my workplace for running/training machine learning models. Currently we are building chatbots using Rasa framework, some tensorflow neural networks and possibly CNN's and RNN's in near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Build includes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 32 gigs of DDR4 3000MHZ&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Storage: 250gigs SSD + 2TB HDD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- GPU: NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- PSU: 650 Watt Corsair TXM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and all other necessary peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that we cannot to pick between Intel and AMD. Rasa framework uses models that are not too deep and hence train faster on CPU while other cases are faster on GPU. So both are equally important for us to work as fast as they can within out budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could someone please advice as to which CPU is better for machine learning between 9700k and 3700x? Is 9700k faster in ML than 3700x? Are there some libraries/software that would favor Intel over AMD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45006" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12863" RevisionGUID="937d0fe6-6c05-4c74-a905-5f6f39559aba" CreationDate="2020-02-07T12:43:41.040" UserId="14340" Text="Intel (9700k) VS AMD (3700x) for a Machine Learning build" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45007" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12863" RevisionGUID="937d0fe6-6c05-4c74-a905-5f6f39559aba" CreationDate="2020-02-07T12:43:41.040" UserId="14340" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45008" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="480e1af5-8e35-4a35-9f60-4fddaf4583cc" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:20:56.693" UserId="4495" Comment="tags edited, fluff removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I have a task to build a few high-end PCs for video rendering, what I was wondering it might be better to have an eGPU so whenever anyone needs to do rendering they can process via eGPU. The local environment is mixed Windows 10 and Mac, Adobe cloud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Multi-card slot eGPU ..?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Best practice when deciding for eGPU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions..? or advice would be much appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45009" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="480e1af5-8e35-4a35-9f60-4fddaf4583cc" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:20:56.693" UserId="4495" Comment="tags edited, fluff removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45010" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="480e1af5-8e35-4a35-9f60-4fddaf4583cc" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:20:56.693" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 14253 edit id of 1019" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45012" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12518" RevisionGUID="7719dedc-0365-4821-9a29-e0a77c728b61" CreationDate="2020-02-07T15:01:50.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45013" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="3199fcfd-abb5-4684-b1dc-fc3f706be34f" CreationDate="2020-02-07T19:02:50.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45014" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="950" RevisionGUID="6f40dba5-7542-4e99-8931-562212f323fc" CreationDate="2020-02-07T23:03:00.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45016" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1881" RevisionGUID="d1bef5fe-760b-4e1f-906c-d8f0159d1ffd" CreationDate="2020-02-08T02:02:50.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="b7027f8b-ac34-41f6-9337-7a4ab6ae8d06" CreationDate="2020-02-08T10:16:25.713" UserId="7606" Text="I've never planned to upgrade my CPU.  &#xD;&#xA;However, it turn out that most of the components has been upgraded and CPU is now the bottleneck performance wise. It is still quite good for web browsing, but for gaming CPU is maxed out while GPU still have quite a way to goes before going maxed out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU is the `Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600` and is now worth 10$ on ebay.  &#xD;&#xA;In the same CPU family, there is the `Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650` at around 20$...  &#xD;&#xA;So for around 10$, I could switch from `4 Cores, @2.4 GHz` to `4 Cores, @3 GHz`.  &#xD;&#xA;This is quite cheap to upgrade, but I'm clueless as for how how much better it would be... Also, there might be some other models compatible I'm unaware of because I don't know what I should look at to know if a CPU is compatible or not with the `Pegatron Benicia 1.01`. I'm guessing CPU released todays don't fit anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to pc-specs, the CPU socket for the `Pegatron Benicia 1.01` is `BGA 1023`. Does that means that any CPU with this socket is compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there even suitable upgrade candidate?  &#xD;&#xA;If so, what compatible CPU would be a significant upgrade?  &#xD;&#xA;If there are, what should I look at to know if they are compatible or not?   &#xD;&#xA;I would have used a compatibility sites to find out, but all of those I've tried aren't even aware of the motherboard because it is so old.... Those who did recommended some crazy up to date CPU which instantly made me suspicious of their credibility..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45021" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="b7027f8b-ac34-41f6-9337-7a4ab6ae8d06" CreationDate="2020-02-08T10:16:25.713" UserId="7606" Text="CPU upgrade on motherboard Pegatron Benicia 1.01?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45022" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="b7027f8b-ac34-41f6-9337-7a4ab6ae8d06" CreationDate="2020-02-08T10:16:25.713" UserId="7606" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45023" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="94c57f7d-abad-405e-aa08-e60465dbfa4c" CreationDate="2020-02-08T10:24:24.303" UserId="7606" Comment="added 109 characters in body" Text="I've never planned to upgrade my CPU.  &#xD;&#xA;However, it turn out that most of the components has been upgraded and CPU is now the bottleneck performance wise. It doesn't flinch except for gaming where it is maxed out while GPU still have quite a way to go before being maxed out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU is the `Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600` and is now worth 10$ on ebay.  &#xD;&#xA;In the same CPU family, there is the `Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650` at around 20$...  &#xD;&#xA;So for around 10$, I could switch from `4 Cores, @2.4 GHz` to `4 Cores, @3 GHz`.  &#xD;&#xA;This is quite cheap to upgrade, but I'm clueless as for how how much better it would be... Also, there might be some other potential models compatible that I'm unaware of because I don't know what I should look at to know if a CPU is compatible or not with the `Pegatron Benicia 1.01`. I'm guessing CPU released todays don't fit anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to pc-specs, the CPU socket for the `Pegatron Benicia 1.01` is `BGA 1023`. Does that means that any CPU with this socket is compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there even suitable upgrade candidate?  &#xD;&#xA;If so, what compatible CPU would be a significant upgrade?  &#xD;&#xA;If there are, what should I look at to know if they are compatible or not?   &#xD;&#xA;I would have used a compatibility sites to find out, but all of those I've tried aren't even aware of the motherboard because it is so old.... Those who did recommended some crazy up to date CPU which instantly made me suspicious of their credibility...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there is quite a lot a questions here, but hopefully these questions will help understand the needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45025" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12610" RevisionGUID="1c9bbfaf-aa16-4345-aa4f-4b5054b8e108" CreationDate="2020-02-08T17:01:25.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12868" RevisionGUID="3c7541df-3fe2-4271-876d-3ab73178c6ee" CreationDate="2020-02-08T19:54:08.073" UserId="14275" Text="The Benicia motherboard supports many processors. Per [HP documentation][1] it should support this [list][2] of CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The absolute best CPU available on this platform is the **Q9650.** As for speed gains, it gives a difference of about **50% faster** at *best.* &#xD;&#xA;[Q9650 vs Q6600 comparison][4] Anything else than a Q**** series processor is a downgrade for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now: is it worth it? 50% isn't really a big boost in speed, and if **you will still have the processor as a bottleneck.** To give a comparison, the *cheapest* Ryzen 5 setup will be at least **100-200% faster** depending on the application. &#xD;&#xA;[Ryzen 5 vs Q6600][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, changing platform will force you to change your RAM, motherboard, and CPU. As well as maybe your power supply. The price for that is way above the price for a single Q9650. I suggest you get a Q9650 for now anyways and save money for a new build eventually. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Be careful not to buy a Q**X**9650. These wont work. It's a **Q9650**, without the X. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c01301711&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/pegatron-corporation-1-01-benicia-motherboard-specs/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVKAJl.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core2-Quad-Q9650-vs-Intel-Core2-Quad-Q6600/m1706vs1980&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-2500U-vs-Intel-Core2-Quad-Q6600/m378273vs1980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45030" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12869" RevisionGUID="0d65b8cf-95ef-4479-9123-68b79b77d9c8" CreationDate="2020-02-08T20:10:47.850" UserId="14347" Text="For my Linux laptop, I want high-frequency-band Wi-Fi (around 5GHz) for a USB 2.0 port, but I haven't found an adapter that's Linux-ready out of the box; I've looked. Since the distro I use (Fedora 31) gets a new kernel every few days or week or so and recompiling reputedly takes maybe 2-4 hours every time, I want an adapter that doesn't need recompiling. But the only good one I found fits a PCIe slot (I'd have to order either full- or low-profile). My Dell Latitude E4300 laptop has a USB 2.0 port, not PCIe, but apparently an adapter between them would also need a driver, which I think requires recompiling the kernel. Does anyone know if a PCIe-plug-to-USB-receptacle adapter exists that does not require recompiling? Or is there another solution I'm missing? Or is it impossible? Maybe there's a method that works or maybe this can't be solved. I'm a do-it-yourselfer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seen: &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/330979/adaptor-that-allows-me-to-use-a-pci-card-via-a-usb-connection&gt;, &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1066273/is-pci-pci-e-via-usb-possible&gt;, and &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1116149/pcie-to-usb-thunderbolt-for-graphics-card&gt; hint, I think, that the adaptation is impossible regardless of OS and I'm not using Thunderbolt; &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/923086/is-there-a-pcie-to-usb-3-0-converter&gt; hints at it more strongly; &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1370937/pcie-ssd-on-usb&gt; seems somewhat off-point; and &lt;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4040/pcie-wwan-adapters-known-to-work-with-linux-out-of-the-box&gt; suggests that Linux did not support brand-specific nongeneric drivers 3 years ago. Similar question, closed as begun in wrong forum, at &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1521989/want-to-adapt-pcie-device-to-fit-usb&gt;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45031" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12869" RevisionGUID="0d65b8cf-95ef-4479-9123-68b79b77d9c8" CreationDate="2020-02-08T20:10:47.850" UserId="14347" Text="need adapter between PCIe device and USB receptacle for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45032" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12869" RevisionGUID="0d65b8cf-95ef-4479-9123-68b79b77d9c8" CreationDate="2020-02-08T20:10:47.850" UserId="14347" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45033" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="813117c6-044e-47a5-ab85-baeb62d26144" CreationDate="2020-02-08T21:01:20.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45034" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="f547463d-2e9f-4a98-b17f-90c891e6b118" CreationDate="2020-02-09T11:21:26.600" UserId="14349" Text="I'm a very clumsy person and I &quot;regularly&quot; drop my phone, sometimes onto hard ground. My most recent phone was the Moto G4 and it was amazing: it was cheap, indestructable (almost!) and had a great screen (1080p which I've not seen much of at that price range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a similar phone to that but I of course want a slightly newer one as the moto G4 is still stuck on android 7 and I like to keep resonably up-to-date. As for the actual specs, I don't need much: the moto G4 had a perfectly adiquate CPU, GPU, RAM, battery life, storage and the rest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price range I'm looking for is &lt;£200.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any suggestions in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45035" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="f547463d-2e9f-4a98-b17f-90c891e6b118" CreationDate="2020-02-09T11:21:26.600" UserId="14349" Text="Looking for a cheap rugged phone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45036" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="f547463d-2e9f-4a98-b17f-90c891e6b118" CreationDate="2020-02-09T11:21:26.600" UserId="14349" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45037" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="0ccdb8c3-30bf-4c0c-8956-4b31d3525ce7" CreationDate="2020-02-09T12:35:27.650" UserId="14349" Comment="added 271 characters in body" Text="I'm a very clumsy person and I &quot;regularly&quot; drop my phone, sometimes onto hard ground. My most recent phone was the Moto G4 and it was amazing: it was cheap, indestructable (almost!) and had a great screen (1080p which I've not seen much of at that price range).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a similar phone to that but I of course want a slightly newer one as the moto G4 is still stuck on android 7 and I like to keep resonably up-to-date. As for the actual specs, I don't need much: the moto G4 had a perfectly adiquate CPU, GPU, RAM, battery life, storage and the rest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price range I'm looking for is &lt;£200/$~220.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**I must stress that the point I'm looking for here is robustness, specs come after.** (but are still fairly important)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reletively stock android is also a plus (i.e. from what I've heard, not samsung, although I may be wrong). Ease of rooting is also a plus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any suggestions in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12871" RevisionGUID="e203a1e5-2ced-4caf-9c40-0159abab5dcc" CreationDate="2020-02-09T16:53:30.457" UserId="10739" Text="What Graphics Card (GPU) would give me the best bang for the buck to use with a Valve Index VR Headset?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to spend more money than I need, but I don't want the VR experience to suffer either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would I notice any difference between the Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 and the RTX 2070?  &#xD;&#xA;Or would a Graphics Card like [Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 OC Rev2 HDMI 3xDP 6GB][1] do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any tips from someone with experience from using a Valve Index VR Headset with any  of these graphics cards?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N2060OC-6GD-rev-20#kf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45039" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12871" RevisionGUID="e203a1e5-2ced-4caf-9c40-0159abab5dcc" CreationDate="2020-02-09T16:53:30.457" UserId="10739" Text="What Graphics Card would be good enough for Valve Index VR?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45040" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12871" RevisionGUID="e203a1e5-2ced-4caf-9c40-0159abab5dcc" CreationDate="2020-02-09T16:53:30.457" UserId="10739" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45041" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12871" RevisionGUID="867e8170-b3a4-42db-9379-85471aee70a8" CreationDate="2020-02-09T17:27:17.163" UserId="10739" Comment="A Graphics Card for a excellent experience with a Valve Index VR" Text="A Graphics Card for an excellent experience with a Valve Index VR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45042" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="355e680a-bb83-4465-8299-70894362344d" CreationDate="2020-02-09T21:36:31.500" UserId="14350" Text="I am currently working on something that requires video graphics to be displayed on something else. Currently the cheapest projector is around $100-$200. But I only need 30 fps and don't need color since the projection is purely informative. I'm thinking of something like a single-laser projector (like the ones at light shows) could be cheaper, but this is a pretty niche use-case and I don't even know what keywords to use." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45043" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="355e680a-bb83-4465-8299-70894362344d" CreationDate="2020-02-09T21:36:31.500" UserId="14350" Text="Really cheap alternative to a projector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45044" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="355e680a-bb83-4465-8299-70894362344d" CreationDate="2020-02-09T21:36:31.500" UserId="14350" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45045" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="c855bb7d-c10d-4925-acdc-ff0c03a2fe93" CreationDate="2020-02-09T22:01:40.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45046" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12873" RevisionGUID="02174f95-fc18-427a-aebc-4c68910c45b7" CreationDate="2020-02-09T23:14:54.597" UserId="6089" Text="You've referenced a speed, which is likely not going to be a problem, depending on the driving computer. A Raspberry Pi may not be powerful enough, although the RPi4 seems promising. You've not referenced resolution, which may be more challenging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projection part, especially if you need only one color, is partly complete in the form of LCD panels for resin based 3D printers. They use UV lights under the panel and generate B/W masks to expose the resin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Change the concept of UV LEDs to visible light LEDs, place the panel in line with a suitable lens (fresnel is good) and you have a projector for relatively low cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the general configuration of today's projectors, with much higher grade components." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45054" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="2e38a524-a539-4af6-928e-278bbac9b84d" CreationDate="2020-02-10T07:37:34.100" UserId="14294" Comment="92" />
  <row Id="45066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12876" RevisionGUID="1c85577d-2461-46ca-a08a-74f768046be3" CreationDate="2020-02-10T17:45:03.063" UserId="14355" Text="I'm about to buy a server, for a Django system (Ubuntu + Django + nginx + postgresql) I have two options:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Dual Intel Xeon 5420 16GB DDR**2** 240GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;I7-2600 16GB DDR**3** 240GB SSD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these setups would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45067" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12876" RevisionGUID="1c85577d-2461-46ca-a08a-74f768046be3" CreationDate="2020-02-10T17:45:03.063" UserId="14355" Text="Server: Dual Intel Xeon 5420 vs I7-2600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45068" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12876" RevisionGUID="1c85577d-2461-46ca-a08a-74f768046be3" CreationDate="2020-02-10T17:45:03.063" UserId="14355" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45069" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12876" RevisionGUID="19ad9eab-6916-4973-9f9b-a8ec4cf7e3dd" CreationDate="2020-02-10T17:53:57.443" UserId="14355" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm about to buy a server, for a Django system (Ubuntu + Django + nginx + postgresql) I have two options:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;```Dual Intel Xeon 5420 16GB DDR2 240GB SSD```&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;```I7-2600 16GB DDR3 240GB SSD```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which of these setups would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45070" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="b3f8581d-28d1-422d-9c92-949fd6a4472d" CreationDate="2020-02-10T19:02:40.343" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45077" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="9e8977d4-d69a-4fc4-bf17-ec710f840d50" CreationDate="2020-02-11T03:16:38.247" UserId="14350" Comment="edited title" Text="Really cheap alternative to a projector? [monocolor]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45078" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="9d04845a-a0b8-4874-9456-74dbbe6a6c13" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:53:45.940" UserId="14359" Text="I have MSI GV62 8RC with Linux Mint 19 installed. It has 1 HDMI port and 1 miniDP which works mostly ok (sometimes I have to unplug and plug miniDP again few times to get it working).  &#xD;&#xA;But now I would like to one additional display which leads me to searching for docking station.  &#xD;&#xA;Could you suggest me something for my config?  &#xD;&#xA;The best would one with 3 display ports so I could just plug docking station to get it all work.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45079" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="9d04845a-a0b8-4874-9456-74dbbe6a6c13" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:53:45.940" UserId="14359" Text="Docking station with 3 dp for linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45080" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="9d04845a-a0b8-4874-9456-74dbbe6a6c13" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:53:45.940" UserId="14359" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12880" RevisionGUID="8ede6acc-5d46-40c0-86eb-50b67f31d795" CreationDate="2020-02-11T07:05:16.420" UserId="13053" Text="**=&gt; nVidia RTX 2060 Super**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using it, excellent in gaming and decent enough for VR experience." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12881" RevisionGUID="7001b925-b029-4b86-a636-f7deb3d6f5eb" CreationDate="2020-02-11T10:56:51.687" UserId="14361" Text="My main computer (at it now) is an i7-2600k. I built it myself, installed Windows 7 Ultimate, and have run it for years.  It's getting old, but I still love it. Best home computer I've ever built or owned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I completely disagree with @Natsu. The i7-2600k is not a server CPU:&#xD;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It does not support ECC nor Registered (Buffered) RAM, the Xeon does (winner).&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Xeon uses DDR2 while the i7 uses DDR3 (winner), but both at 1333MHz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The i7 will forever be alone, the Xeon comes with a mate (winner).&#xD;&#xA;    Why? Your anticipated server software stack (Ubuntu + Django + nginx +&#xD;&#xA;        postgresql) will benefit greatly from the second CPU. Most software we run on&#xD;&#xA;        home computers often doesn't need or can't use a second CPU effectively, but&#xD;&#xA;        your server software should utilize as many cores you can throw at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The i7 is top of the line, which means end of the road. You can upgrade the E5420 &#xD;&#xA;    to dual X5450 @ 3.0GHz for less than $20 each (winner).&lt;/li&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, this is assuming you are getting ECC RDIMM memory with the Xeon setup, and the motherboard supports the X5450 (it should, same CPU family). If not, then you aren't getting a true server, but rather a glorified home computer. I build and use both types of machines, &quot;home/small business&quot; desktops and full-on enterprise servers. The difference in memory is worth it if you want reliability. What is the difference? You know those random crashes, lockups, or errors that just don't make any sense? Unrecoverable memory errors are often the cause, and with Non-ECC Unbuffered RAM, they occur about once a month, while with ECC Buffered RAM, they happen about once a year. Power issues, heat, sunspots, proximity to nearest nuclear power plant, and many other factors affect these rates, but that's about average, 1/mo vs 1/yr.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Make sure to get a server chassis, not some Rosewill or Corsair case, if up time is important to you. Multiple hot-swap fans, dual hot-swap power supplies, hot-swap drive bays, out-of-band management, all contribute to the qualities that make a server a server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I buy HP Proliant DL380 G6's: 4x 1Gbps NICs + iLO mgmt port, 6Gbps SAS RAID controller w/512MB cache, 2x 72GB 10k SAS drives, 2x450W hotswap power supplies, 2x E5504 Quad core 2.0GHz, 8GB DDR3 ECC RDIMM @ 1333, for $85.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can upgrade to 2x X5660 Hexa-core @ 2.8GHz for $50, and put in 8x 146GB 15k SAS drives in RAID10 (584GB yield) for $80 (refurbished). Memory prices constantly change, but right now 2x 8GB ECC RDIMMs is $25, so $300 will max out the machine w/24 sticks for 192GB RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add misc. cords, some more RAM, rails, spare parts, tax, shipping, $300-$400 total for a great little server. Since I'm buying refurbished, I like to keep 25% replacement on-hand: I get 2 extra drives for every array of 8 (one server), and 1 extra power supply for every 2 servers (each having 2 PS in them). In over three years, I've had one drive die (RAID10, so I swapped it out, no problem), one motherboard die (when we moved to a new building, hmmmm...) and no power supply, CPU, NIC, or memory problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't know where you are or what's available to you, but my advice is this:&#xD;&#xA;If you need a server, buy a server. These 10 year old HP's do a great job on the cheap, and they are but one possibility." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45087" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10447" RevisionGUID="1134be5b-385d-4125-8e8f-eeda030156a4" CreationDate="2020-02-11T15:03:10.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45089" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12884" RevisionGUID="163ba70e-dd15-4798-9a7d-c4ee65a40528" CreationDate="2020-02-11T15:50:43.553" UserId="14280" Text="I plan on building a high end gaming PC this summer with these specs:&#xA;&#xA; CPU: Intel Core i9-9900KF&#xA; GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super&#xA; RAM: Corsair DDR4 64GB (4x16 GB) at 3000mhz&#xA; Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 LGA1151&#xA; SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2&#xA; HDD: WD Black 6TB 7200rpm 3.5”&#xA; PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold&#xA; Case: Thermaltake V100&#xA;&#xA;I have a ‘Be Quiet Dark Rock Slim’ CPU Cooler, but I want to put an AIO Cooler in the build. I am worried that my i9-9900kf will run too hot, and won’t allow proper cooling if I want to overclock the CPU. I have space in my desktop case for a 3 Fan or a 2 Fan AIO Cooler. I want to know if I would see any temperature difference in the two fan AIO cooler vs a three fan AIO cooler at base and turbo clock speeds. I am still indecisive on what AIO cooler I want since I haven’t done good research in the AIO cooler market." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45090" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12884" RevisionGUID="163ba70e-dd15-4798-9a7d-c4ee65a40528" CreationDate="2020-02-11T15:50:43.553" UserId="14280" Text="Two fan vs Three fan IAO Cooler" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45091" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12884" RevisionGUID="163ba70e-dd15-4798-9a7d-c4ee65a40528" CreationDate="2020-02-11T15:50:43.553" UserId="14280" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12885" RevisionGUID="08788175-3b49-47a3-8d1f-c0699b09967e" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:17:39.493" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="It is not the heat flow (aka Watt) that makes CPUs like the I7-9900K(F) run rather hot, but the high heat flow density (Watt/m²). These chips are pretty small.&#xD;&#xA;Hence the limiting factor is heat transfer from the CPU die towards the coldplate and into the water, not heat dissipation of the radiator.  &#xD;&#xA;A 240mm radiator is more than capable of dissipating the heat flow from these CPUs, there will be little to no difference compared to a 360mm radiator, provided CPU block and water pump are the same. If 2-3 degrees are worth the investment to you, then go for a 360mm radiator. Otherwise, 240mm is enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45093" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12886" RevisionGUID="c7a408e1-3159-4813-850d-a46c17d5eeb2" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:27:05.403" UserId="14364" Text="I've got an LG V30 smartphone that I would like to start using to record my band's performances. The problem is that there are substantial times between each song (long story) so I would like to use a Bluetooth foot switch to turn on and off the stock video recording included in my smartphone camera.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What footswitch do I get with the software I need?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45094" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12886" RevisionGUID="c7a408e1-3159-4813-850d-a46c17d5eeb2" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:27:05.403" UserId="14364" Text="Bluetooth footswitch for Android video" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45095" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12886" RevisionGUID="c7a408e1-3159-4813-850d-a46c17d5eeb2" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:27:05.403" UserId="14364" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45096" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12884" RevisionGUID="6a0a31d7-9ddf-4c10-8b2b-2bb1070ee213" CreationDate="2020-02-11T17:03:47.077" UserId="14280" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I plan on building a high end gaming PC this summer with these specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; CPU: Intel Core i9-9900KF&#xD;&#xA; GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super&#xD;&#xA; RAM: Corsair DDR4 64GB (4x16 GB) at 3000mhz&#xD;&#xA; Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 LGA1151&#xD;&#xA; SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2&#xD;&#xA; HDD: WD Black 6TB 7200rpm 3.5”&#xD;&#xA; PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold&#xD;&#xA; Case: Thermaltake V100&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a ‘Be Quiet Dark Rock Slim’ CPU Cooler, but I want to put an AIO Cooler in the build. I am worried that my i9-9900kf will run too hot, and won’t allow proper cooling if I want to overclock the CPU. I have space in my desktop case for a 3 Fan or a 2 Fan AIO Cooler. I want to know if I would see any temperature difference in the two fan AIO cooler vs a three fan AIO cooler at base and turbo clock speeds. I am still indecisive on what AIO cooler I want since I haven’t done good research in the AIO cooler market." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45097" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12884" RevisionGUID="6a0a31d7-9ddf-4c10-8b2b-2bb1070ee213" CreationDate="2020-02-11T17:03:47.077" UserId="14280" Comment="added 11 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12887" RevisionGUID="5f7508b3-3bb4-48b1-9304-4aaabf2acd50" CreationDate="2020-02-11T20:50:21.000" UserId="6407" Text="For a while now, I've had a 10-band graphic EQ as an ALSA output device on a Raspberry Pi (https://scribles.net/enabling-equalizer-on-raspberry-pi-using-alsa-equal-plugin/), to try and correct my speakers' overexuberant and almost-painful midrange.  It works, but it also seems to corrupt the sound a little bit in addition to the desired effect.  Like it can't quite keep up, and frequently drops enough samples to hear the glitches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really wanted a parametric EQ, since it only takes one or maybe two bands of that to do what's really needed, but I didn't find any in an easy-to-add format.  And I don't think it would fix the glitches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to offload that processing to another device.  I thought about creating a one- or two-band analog PEQ circuit, since my speakers only have an analog input anyway, but if I can put that function *before* the DAC, I think it would be even better.  Is there such a thing?:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- USB stereo &quot;sound card&quot;, nothing fancy on that front&#xD;&#xA;- Full-parametric EQ as a DSP function&#xD;&#xA;- Stereo DAC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that it would be a USB composite device between the obvious audio interface, and USB-HID or -MIDI for detailed settings, but not necessarily.  However it works is fine with me, as long as it works with a Pi." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45099" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12887" RevisionGUID="5f7508b3-3bb4-48b1-9304-4aaabf2acd50" CreationDate="2020-02-11T20:50:21.000" UserId="6407" Text="USB DAC with Parametric EQ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45100" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12887" RevisionGUID="5f7508b3-3bb4-48b1-9304-4aaabf2acd50" CreationDate="2020-02-11T20:50:21.000" UserId="6407" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45105" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="12876" RevisionGUID="00633068-b926-46b6-95b3-ecc617736639" CreationDate="2020-02-11T21:32:31.740" UserId="7556" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="45106" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12869" RevisionGUID="2357cc78-e356-4d95-9ac1-088acfd7b449" CreationDate="2020-02-11T23:18:28.817" UserId="14347" Comment="Correction on distros in use. Comments may have responded on Fedora when I should have predicated on Ubuntu." Text="For my Linux laptop, I want high-frequency-band Wi-Fi (around 5GHz) for a USB 2.0 port, but I haven't found an adapter that's Linux-ready out of the box; I've looked. Since recompiling reputedly takes maybe 2-4 hours every time, I want an adapter that doesn't need recompiling. But the only good one I found fits a PCIe slot (I'd have to order either full- or low-profile). My Dell Latitude E4300 laptop has a USB 2.0 port, not PCIe, but apparently an adapter between them would also need a driver, which I think requires recompiling the kernel. Does anyone know if a PCIe-plug-to-USB-receptacle adapter exists that does not require recompiling? Or is there another solution I'm missing? Or is it impossible? Maybe there's a method that works or maybe this can't be solved. I'm a do-it-yourselfer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My error: I'm using two laptops. Fedora 31 is on the laptop that internally gets both frequency bands. Ubuntu 18.04.3 LTS is on the machine that gets only the low band through an external adapter and I want both bands on that machine. Fedora supplies a new kernel every few days or week or so. I don't use the Ubuntu machine often, but I guess both distros update the kernel about as often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seen: &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/330979/adaptor-that-allows-me-to-use-a-pci-card-via-a-usb-connection&gt;, &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1066273/is-pci-pci-e-via-usb-possible&gt;, and &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1116149/pcie-to-usb-thunderbolt-for-graphics-card&gt; hint, I think, that the adaptation is impossible regardless of OS and I'm not using Thunderbolt; &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/923086/is-there-a-pcie-to-usb-3-0-converter&gt; hints at it more strongly; &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1370937/pcie-ssd-on-usb&gt; seems somewhat off-point; and &lt;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4040/pcie-wwan-adapters-known-to-work-with-linux-out-of-the-box&gt; suggests that Linux did not support brand-specific nongeneric drivers 3 years ago. Similar question, closed as begun in wrong forum, at &lt;https://superuser.com/questions/1521989/want-to-adapt-pcie-device-to-fit-usb&gt;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45108" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12888" RevisionGUID="e134cabf-1443-43b2-a790-571b7113b820" CreationDate="2020-02-12T09:15:31.633" UserId="14365" Text="I want to buy a new phone for Gaming purposes.&#xD;&#xA;Below are my requirements.&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;1. Performance is the topmost priority&#xD;&#xA;2. Camara performance can be neglected&#xD;&#xA;3. Long battery backup&#xD;&#xA;4. Headphone-jack is preferable&#xD;&#xA;5. Durability should be also be taken into consideration&#xD;&#xA;6. Excellent screen quality&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And my budget is 40-42k, So which of the phones mentioned in the title should I buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note:-** I won't say I am a hardcore gamer but definitely a passionate one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45109" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12888" RevisionGUID="e134cabf-1443-43b2-a790-571b7113b820" CreationDate="2020-02-12T09:15:31.633" UserId="14365" Text="Asus ROG Phone II vs OnePlus 7T vs iPhone XR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45110" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12888" RevisionGUID="e134cabf-1443-43b2-a790-571b7113b820" CreationDate="2020-02-12T09:15:31.633" UserId="14365" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12889" RevisionGUID="f9941854-c9f6-4e26-b10a-ba55ec991476" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:06:47.500" UserId="14366" Text="First off my apologies if this in the wrong forum, I'm not quite sure where to post this. My boss is asking me to pull data (if possible) from the device in the picture below but I have no idea what wire goes into this. Perhaps one that could connect to a USB? I was hoping someone here would know what it's called and/or have any info about it. Thank you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEN6g.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45112" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12889" RevisionGUID="f9941854-c9f6-4e26-b10a-ba55ec991476" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:06:47.500" UserId="14366" Text="Wire for old device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45113" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12889" RevisionGUID="f9941854-c9f6-4e26-b10a-ba55ec991476" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:06:47.500" UserId="14366" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45114" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="1d5df110-9a8b-4882-b5d3-2c8e1e910132" CreationDate="2020-02-12T16:01:35.180" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12890" RevisionGUID="fd874dd1-a641-4cc8-8ce5-c8fce9620738" CreationDate="2020-02-12T16:37:03.160" UserId="14282" Text="I have to agree with @CaldeiraG, it is an 8-Pin Mini-DIN. It is a comm port to connect to a device with a RS-232-C connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is a manual for a similar model of [MicroLogix 1000 series Controller][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![8-Pin Mini-DIN Male side][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. Next time you post please include all available information. Cutting out the name of the device in question means more work from those that you are asking for help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://literature.rockwellautomation.com/idc/groups/literature/documents/um/1761-um003_-en-p.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyeZa.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45116" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12891" RevisionGUID="8ecb94d5-928a-46d0-a74c-86f7a1803bb1" CreationDate="2020-02-12T21:27:04.947" UserId="14369" Text="I cannot find a reasonably priced system that would simply triangulate players on a field/ice/court. Say 50 total players. Would anyone have some thoughts on building such a system?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45117" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12891" RevisionGUID="8ecb94d5-928a-46d0-a74c-86f7a1803bb1" CreationDate="2020-02-12T21:27:04.947" UserId="14369" Text="Would like a radio based tracking system for sports games to track athletes position on ice/field/court" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45118" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12891" RevisionGUID="8ecb94d5-928a-46d0-a74c-86f7a1803bb1" CreationDate="2020-02-12T21:27:04.947" UserId="14369" Text="&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;asset-tracking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12892" RevisionGUID="87ace6e7-4320-4104-ab8b-71ae3dbe3317" CreationDate="2020-02-13T02:47:02.340" UserId="14361" Text="They both Turbo to 3.7GHz, so all else being equal, you are unlikely to see much difference per core, and indeed, Passmark shows an ~8.8% increase in single thread rating for that ~23% clock increase from 2.1GHz to 2.6GHz, and yet going from 12 cores to 16 cores resulted in ~0.3% decrease in rating.  Keep in mind,the sample size is exceedingly small (1 and 10 results).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Without knowing your use case, it's very difficult to make a good recommendation, so I'll make a recommendation of unknown quality:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you will be running Windows Server VMs, get the 6130. You'll have 32 vCPU instead of 24 vCPU. Since they both turbo to 3.7GHz, intensive users won't see much difference and casual users probably won't feel the difference. But what really leads me to make this recommendation, when running Windows VMs, is that licensing costs the same either CPU.  Microsoft requires minimum 8 core licenses per CPU and minimum 16 core licenses per machine, so you will have to license 16 cores regardless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The question then is how many Windows VM's do you expect to run? List price for Windows Server Datacenter for 16 cores is $6160 and you are licensed to run an unlimited number of VMs (not equipped to run unlimited, but still, many VMs :). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows Server Standard is cheaper if you are running 12 or less VMs: $5832 gets you licensing for 11 or 12 VMs, and decreases in price at 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 VMs, with 1 or 2 VMs costing $972. To license 13 or 14 VMs, WS Standard lists for $6804, so there it is. More than 12, Datacenter is cheaper, less and Standard is cheaper, but the point is, anyway you license it w/Microsoft, the 12 core CPU costs the same as the 16 core because you must license 16 cores minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally, given the relatively small difference in performance per thread, having 32 vCPU available is better than 24 vCPU for VM hosting 12 - 15 people simultaneously, but it is possible that your particular workload would benefit from a higher base frequency more than an increased vCPU count, although I doubt it, seeing as having 15 simultaneous users results in &lt; 2 vCPU per user on the 6126, while the 6130 gives you 2 vCPU per user  + 2 for the host." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45121" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12893" RevisionGUID="7646ec47-ccd8-44c2-95c7-c7b361c3021b" CreationDate="2020-02-13T04:27:56.507" UserId="14280" Text="Just going off of Geekbench data for these devices (Higher is better):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ASUS ROG Phone 2:&#xD;&#xA;Single Core: 722&#xD;&#xA;Multi Core: 2467&#xD;&#xA;CPU Clock: 1.8GHz (approx)&#xD;&#xA;Core Count: 8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OnePlus 7T: &#xD;&#xA;Single Core: 760&#xD;&#xA;Multi Core: 2695&#xD;&#xA;CPU Clock: 1.8 GHz (approx)&#xD;&#xA;Core Count: 8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;iPhone XR:&#xD;&#xA;Single Core: 1108&#xD;&#xA;Multi Core: 2573&#xD;&#xA;CPU Clock: 2.5 GHz (Approx)&#xD;&#xA;Core Count: 6&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ASUS ROG Phone 2 and OnePlus 7T are very similar due to the phone using the same chipset for CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I was making this decision, I’d get the iPhone Xr. iPhones just work, where Android has too many areas (in my opinion) to break and cause issues for the user. I am also an Apple fan boy though. I have an iPhone XR, and it takes everything I throw at it. I left it in a snow bank for 30 minutes and it still works no issues.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12894" RevisionGUID="7ab3847c-8bfe-4254-b2dd-53943be71772" CreationDate="2020-02-13T04:37:04.650" UserId="14280" Text="A Google Chromecast, Amazon Firestick, Ruko Stick would all do that job perfectly. I doubt that they’ll EVER get cheaper because each company wants to make a profit, and nothing is ever free." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45123" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12894" RevisionGUID="eedbdaf0-82cf-4253-9817-1c1868636962" CreationDate="2020-02-13T04:47:09.123" UserId="14280" Comment="added 227 characters in body" Text="A Google Chromecast, Amazon FireStick, Roku Stick would all do that job perfectly. I doubt that they’ll EVER get cheaper because each company wants to make a profit, and nothing is ever free.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Chromecast Link: https://store.google.com/us/product/chromecast&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon FireStick Link: https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B0791TX5P5&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Roku: https://www.roku.com/products/roku-express" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12895" RevisionGUID="fcdcf523-07ba-4b88-bb4b-36b45622d00b" CreationDate="2020-02-13T05:03:29.720" UserId="14280" Text="I would get a Redmi Note 7 or an iPhone 8 or higher. Just be aware that the iPhone X and 11 series substitutes the fingerprint for an facial scanner  which I love on my iPhone Xr. It unlocks my phone almost immediately." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12897" RevisionGUID="48b39f56-d839-40eb-bacd-ea963e71033a" CreationDate="2020-02-13T08:01:57.467" UserId="13572" Text="I'm looking for a new smartphone to replace my aging OnePlus 6.&#xD;&#xA;I tried replacing it so far with...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A OnePlus 7T Pro - Screen was waaay too curved. Front camera too slow for FaceID, In-Screen fingerprint sensor too slow for fingerprint ID.&#xD;&#xA; - A OnePlus 7T - almost perfect, but the screen was very un-uniform at low brightness&#xD;&#xA; - A Galaxy S10, which killed its glass front after a mild drop thanks to the curved screen and horribly designed silicon case&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No curved screen&#xD;&#xA; - 90+ Hz display&#xD;&#xA; - Contemporary processor, SnapDragon 855 or better / comparable&#xD;&#xA; - Camera doesn't matter&#xD;&#xA; - Fingerprint sensor, but not In-Display&#xD;&#xA; - OR In-Display fingerprint sensor, but a conventional front-facing camera (not mechanized)&#xD;&#xA; - Android, with bonus points for not losing warranty when rooted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found a few promising devices so far - I like the Nubia Red Magic 3S, but it seems to be hard to source in Germany.&#xD;&#xA;Price doesn't really matter, but should be adequate for the performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45129" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12897" RevisionGUID="48b39f56-d839-40eb-bacd-ea963e71033a" CreationDate="2020-02-13T08:01:57.467" UserId="13572" Text="Smartphone recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45130" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12897" RevisionGUID="48b39f56-d839-40eb-bacd-ea963e71033a" CreationDate="2020-02-13T08:01:57.467" UserId="13572" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45131" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12898" RevisionGUID="52a6c2c0-acc3-44ca-91c7-5a1cce70674f" CreationDate="2020-02-13T12:57:52.127" UserId="14275" Text="To get the data from this controller you will need both a cable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon -serial port][1]   ------------------------------------------------------------[USB- Amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the software. The software you need will be called [RSLinx (Classic) Lite][5]. This is the only one that can connect physically to this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B07FK96F2Z/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/146-1801831-4991467?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07FK96F2Z&amp;pd_rd_r=5167b084-1efc-46ef-bda7-4fb7bc33a622&amp;pd_rd_w=NhG8g&amp;pd_rd_wg=VaYPh&amp;pf_rd_p=74b54c94-7195-4620-ba51-7d167ac58a58&amp;pf_rd_r=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.ca/Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-USB-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B007J2XQ6W&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdZX7m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF75jm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&amp;client=firefox-b-d&amp;ei=T0RFXsy6HsKp_Qbp0ZXQBg&amp;q=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;oq=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l8j0i333l2.9329.15161..15309...0.2..0.117.884.8j2......0....2j1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i273j0i10.ha2fRlGKy7U&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiMntjsxs7nAhXCVN8KHeloBWoQ4dUDCAo&amp;uact=5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45132" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12898" RevisionGUID="3d1e1c27-d410-4157-af40-19ceeb426cd0" CreationDate="2020-02-13T13:17:14.120" UserId="14275" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="To get the data from this controller you will need one of these cables:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon -serial port][1]   ------------------------------------------------------------[USB- Amazon][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3][![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And the software. The software you need will be called [RSLinx (Classic) Lite][5]. This is the only one that can connect physically to this device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B07FK96F2Z/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/146-1801831-4991467?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07FK96F2Z&amp;pd_rd_r=5167b084-1efc-46ef-bda7-4fb7bc33a622&amp;pd_rd_w=NhG8g&amp;pd_rd_wg=VaYPh&amp;pf_rd_p=74b54c94-7195-4620-ba51-7d167ac58a58&amp;pf_rd_r=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.ca/Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-USB-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B007J2XQ6W&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdZX7m.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF75jm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&amp;client=firefox-b-d&amp;ei=T0RFXsy6HsKp_Qbp0ZXQBg&amp;q=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;oq=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l8j0i333l2.9329.15161..15309...0.2..0.117.884.8j2......0....2j1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i273j0i10.ha2fRlGKy7U&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiMntjsxs7nAhXCVN8KHeloBWoQ4dUDCAo&amp;uact=5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45137" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12900" RevisionGUID="82c567f8-9abe-4ea9-aefa-bd0c48b21b5a" CreationDate="2020-02-13T16:25:05.197" UserId="14282" Text="StarTech makes a Docking Station with three Displayport connections:&#xD;&#xA;[Model: USB3DOCKH2DP][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Triple-Monitor-Docking-Station/dp/B012VKW900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12902" RevisionGUID="fc4c289b-ed60-4d0b-9002-d00a1f67a9e4" CreationDate="2020-02-13T16:51:29.667" UserId="10056" Text="**1.Realme X2 Pro**&#xA;&#xA;The Realme X2 Pro is the cheapest phone with 90Hz display in India right now. apart from the headlining refresh rate feature, it also packs Snapdragon 855 Plus chipset, a 6.5-inch Fluid AMOLED Full-HD+ screen, and among the highest fast-charging tech in the industry. The Realme X2 Pro is a first-ever flagship offering from the brand, designed to take on the likes of the Redmi K20 Pro and OnePlus 7T.&#xA;&#xA;**2.Nubia Red Magic 3s**&#xA;&#xA;Next in the list of phones with 90Hz screen is nubia’s gaming-focused Red Magic 3s  smartphone. The handset is an iterative upgrade from the Red Magic 3 smartphone, which was introduced earlier this year. The Red Magic 3s sports a 6.65-inch Super AMOLED display that bears 90Hz refresh rate, DC dimming, HDR support, and full-HD+ (1,080p) resolution.&#xA;&#xA;**3.ASUS ROG Phone 2**&#xA;&#xA;This gaming-focused phone has 120Hz refresh rate display. The ASUS ROG Phone 2 features a 6.59-inch AMOLED display with 120Hz refresh rate and 240Hz touch sampling. The screen has fair amounts of bezels that houses front-firing speakers for an immersive gaming experience. To take care of that high refresh rate, the ROG Phone 2 houses an astounding 6,000mAh battery with 30W fast charging support.&#xA;&#xA;**4.Google Pixel 4 series**&#xA;&#xA;Although the Pixel 4 series is not coming to India, it’s one of the smartphones out there to sport 90Hz screens. Both the Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL sports display with a high refresh rate. The handsets are the latest flagships from Google that comes running Android 10 out of the box and features dual rear cameras with a dedicated telephoto lens.&#xA;&#xA;**5.OPPO Reno Ace**&#xA;&#xA;The OPPO Reno Ace is the first smartphone from the brand with 90Hz screen. OPPO has introduced the handset only in China so far. It’s a mid-range offering that sports a 6.5-inch 1080p OLED display that bears refresh rate of up to 90Hz refresh rate and 135Hz sampling rate for a smooth experience. The screen also features a waterdrop notch that accommodates selfie camera and optical fingerprint scanner for biometrics.&#xA;&#xA;**6.Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite**&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Key Specs&#xA;&#xA; Android v10 (Q)&#xA;&#xA;Performance(Excellent)&#xA;Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core)&#xA;Snapdragon 855&#xA;8 GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;Display(Very Good)&#xA;6.7 inches (17.02 cm)&#xA;1080x2400 px, 393 PPI&#xA;Super AMOLED Plus&#xA;&#xA;Camera(Excellent)&#xA;48 MP + 12 MP + 5 MP Triple Primary Cameras&#xA;LED Flash&#xA;32 MP Front Camera, No Front Flash&#xA;Battery(Very Good)&#xA;&#xA;4500 mAh&#xA;Fast Charging&#xA;USB Type-C port&#xA;&#xA;**7.Redmi K20 Pro**&#xA;&#xA;Key Specs&#xA; Android v9.0 (Pie)&#xA;&#xA;Performance(Excellent)&#xA;&#xA;Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core)&#xA;Snapdragon 855&#xA;8 GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;Display(Very Good)&#xA;6.39 inches (16.23 cm)&#xA;1080x2340 px, 403 PPI&#xA;AMOLED&#xA;&#xA;Camera(Very Good)&#xA;48 MP + 13 MP + 8 MP Triple Primary Cameras&#xA;Dual LED Flash&#xA;20 MP Front Camera&#xA;&#xA;Battery(Very Good)&#xA;4000 mAh&#xA;Quick Charging 4.0&#xA;USB Type-C port&#xA;&#xA;**8.Asus 6Z**&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Key Specs&#xA; Android v9.0 (Pie)&#xA;&#xA;Performance(Excellent)&#xA;Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core)&#xA;Snapdragon 855&#xA;6 GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;Display(Good)&#xA;6.4 inches (16.26 cm)&#xA;1080x2340 px, 403 PPI&#xA;IPS LCD&#xA;&#xA;Camera(Very Good)&#xA;48 MP + 13 MP Dual Primary Cameras&#xA;Dual LED Flash&#xA;48 MP + 13 MP Dual Front Cameras, Dual LED&#xA;Battery(Excellent)&#xA;&#xA;5000 mAh&#xA;Quick Charging 4.0&#xA;USB Type-C port&#xA;&#xA;**9.Black Shark 2**&#xA;&#xA;Key Specs&#xA; Android v9.0 (Pie)&#xA;&#xA;Performance(Excellent)&#xA;Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core)&#xA;Snapdragon 855&#xA;12 GB RAM&#xA;&#xA;Display(Very Good)&#xA;6.39 inches (16.23 cm)&#xA;1080x2340 px, 403 PPI&#xA;AMOLED&#xA;&#xA;Camera(Very Good)&#xA;48 MP + 12 MP Dual Primary Cameras&#xA;LED Flash&#xA;20 MP Front Camera&#xA;&#xA;Battery(Very Good)&#xA;4000 mAh&#xA;Quick Charging 4.0&#xA;USB Type-C port&#xA;&#xA;**Hopefully These Phones May Fullfill Your Requirements.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45140" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12903" RevisionGUID="2dcfc058-b51f-4160-aa0d-6d5c67cbe02b" CreationDate="2020-02-13T17:03:39.433" UserId="10056" Text="**Redmi A3**&#xA;&#xA;This is another option for your budget as compact phone.&#xA;&#xA;Processor&#xA;Qualcomm® Snapdragon™ 665 AIE&#xA;Octa-core Kryo™ 260 CPU, up to 2.0 GHz&#xA;Adreno™ 610 GPU&#xA;11nm FinFET process&#xA;Memory&#xA;4GB+64GB / 6GB+128GB&#xA;&#xA;Expandable storage up to 256GB&#xA;RAM: Dual channel LPDDR4x&#xA;ROM: UFS 2.1 flash storage&#xA;*Available storage and RAM are less than the total memory due to storage of the operating system and software pre-installed in the device.&#xA;&#xA;Battery &amp; Charging&#xA;4030mAh (typ) / 3940mAh (min)&#xA;Supports Quick Charge™ 3.0 Techonology and 18W&#xA;Fast Charge&#xA;In-box 10W charger&#xA;Type-C charging port&#xA;Built-in rechargeable battery&#xA;&#xA;Rear Camera&#xA;48MP AI Smart Triple Rear Camera&#xA;48MP primary camera&#xA;• Sony IMX586 sensor&#xA;• 1.6μm 4-in-1 Super Pixel&#xA;• 6pcs lens, ƒ/1.79&#xA;• 1/2 inch sensor size, PDAF&#xA;8MP ultra wide-angle camera&#xA;• FOV 118°, ƒ/2.2, FF&#xA;2MP depth camera&#xA;• AI portrait mode&#xA;• Steady handheld night photography&#xA;&#xA;Video features&#xA;4K video, 30fps&#xA;1080p, 60fps/30fps&#xA;720p, 30fps&#xA;EIS, 1080p, 30 fps; 720p, 30 fps&#xA;Slow motion recording, 720p, 240fps/120fps; 1080p, 120fps&#xA;AI Scene detection&#xA;Detects up to 27 different scenes&#xA;&#xA;Front Camera&#xA;32MP AI Selfie Camera&#xA;1.6μm 4-in-1 Super Pixel Design&#xA;In-screen fingerprint sensor&#xA;5 pcs lens, ƒ/2.0, 79° FOV, FF&#xA;AI face unlock&#xA;Panorama selfie&#xA;Video features&#xA;1080p, 30fps&#xA;720p, 30fps&#xA;Short video recording&#xA;AI Scene detection&#xA;Detects up to 12 different scenes&#xA;Unlock&#xA;7th Gen In-screen fingerprint unlock&#xA;AI Face unlock&#xA;&#xA;Display&#xA;15.46cm (6.08) Super AMOLED Display&#xA;19.5:9 aspect ratio&#xA;HD+ display (1560 x 720)&#xA;Contrast ratio: 60000:1 (min)&#xA;Color gamut: NTSC 102.7% (typ) 3D glass, rounded display corners&#xA;Corning® Gorilla® Glass 5&#xA;Dimensions&#xA;Height: 153.48mm&#xA;Width: 71.85mm&#xA;Thickness: 8.475mm&#xA;Weight: 173.8g&#xA;&#xA;Network &amp; Connectivity&#xA;4G Dual SIM&#xA;3-choose-2 SIM slot&#xA;* When using both SIM card slots, either card can&#xA;be set as the primary card, which supports&#xA;4G+/4G/3G/2G calling and data&#xA;Network bands&#xA;GSM: B2/3/5/8 &#xA;WCDMA: B1/2/4/5/8 &#xA;TDD-LTE: 40/41(2535-2655MHz)&#xA;FDD-LTE: B1/3/5/8&#xA;&#xA;Connectivity&#xA;Supports protocols: 802.11a/b/g/n/ac&#xA;Supports 2.4G WiFi / Supports 5G WiFi / Supports&#xA;WiFi Direct&#xA;Supports WiFi Display&#xA;Supports Bluetooth 5.0&#xA;IR remote&#xA;Ports&#xA;USB Type-C charging port&#xA;3.5mm headphone port&#xA;Navigation &amp; Positioning&#xA;GPS | AGPS | GLONASS | Beidou&#xA;Sensors&#xA;Gyroscope | Accelerometer | Distance sensor | Electronic compass | Vibration motor | IR blaster | Ambient light sensor | Gravity sensor&#xA;&#xA;Multimedia Support&#xA;MP4 | M4V | MKV | XVID | WAV | AAC | MP3 | FLAC | AMR&#xA;Supports H.264 (Baseline / Main / High profile), MPEG4 (Simple profile / ASP) and other video formats.&#xA;Supports audio formats such as PCM, AAC / AAC + / eAAC +, MP3, AMR - NB and WB, FLAC, WAV.&#xA;&#xA;Audio&#xA;Large 0.915cc speaker box&#xA;High audio output amplified by Smart PA&#xA;&#xA;Package Contents&#xA;Net Quantity 1 U&#xA;1 U Contains:&#xA;Mobile Phone 1 U , &#xA;Adapter 1 U , &#xA;USB Type-C Cable 1 U , &#xA;SIM Eject Tool 1 U , &#xA;User Guide 1 U , &#xA;Warranty Card 1 U , &#xA;Soft Case 1 U" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45142" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12904" RevisionGUID="270a110d-ddcd-4161-9eb4-bf93af50907e" CreationDate="2020-02-13T20:24:42.050" UserId="14282" Text="The Oculus Go or Oculus Quest are probably your best bets. Put them in Kiosk mode to boot into your application, bypassing the traditional Oculus Home screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is an article with instructions: https://theslidefactory.com/kiosk-mode-oculus-quest/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, Oculus is making an Enterprise Edition if you need more features and support: https://uploadvr.com/oculus-quest-enterprise-edition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45143" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="19f4df85-ed84-4456-a0ad-b9039c6e257f" CreationDate="2020-02-13T22:01:45.233" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45150" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12907" RevisionGUID="e6d2e3aa-aae2-4f7b-bb6a-e031156fec52" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:34:41.057" UserId="14380" Text="After having my questions closed as off-topic on [superuser.com](https://superuser.com), I'm trying my luck here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have an MSI X99S SLI Plus motherboard (5-6 years old) which I'd like to keep, but I'd like to add Thunderbolt 3 connectivity to my PC (mainly for connecting a modern low-latency audio interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. How can this be achieved, if it's even possible at all?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If it is possible to use an adapter/add-on card with this motherboard (which has no TB3 connector), what are the downsides compared to a motherboard with built-in TB3 connectivity (stability/latency/driver-wise)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45151" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12907" RevisionGUID="e6d2e3aa-aae2-4f7b-bb6a-e031156fec52" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:34:41.057" UserId="14380" Text="add Thunderbolt 3 connectivity to MSI X99S SLI Plus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45152" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12907" RevisionGUID="e6d2e3aa-aae2-4f7b-bb6a-e031156fec52" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:34:41.057" UserId="14380" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45153" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12907" RevisionGUID="dc6bff51-bfd2-4f7f-adbb-06aa0755f497" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:52:34.583" UserId="14380" Comment="make sure it's on-topic" Text="After having my questions closed as off-topic on [superuser.com](https://superuser.com), I'm trying my luck here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have an MSI X99S SLI Plus motherboard (5-6 years old) which I'd like to keep, but I'd like to add Thunderbolt 3 connectivity to my PC (mainly for connecting a modern low-latency audio interface).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. How can this be achieved, if it's even possible at all?&#xD;&#xA; 2. If it is possible to use an adapter/add-on card with this motherboard (which has no TB3 connector), what are the downsides compared to a motherboard with built-in TB3 connectivity (stability/latency/driver-wise)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Edit to make sure it's on-topic here:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a **recommendation** for a specific **hardware** product that will allow me to connect a TB3 external audio device to my PC, if such product exists." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45154" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12908" RevisionGUID="32579284-588c-4868-996e-255046c0d0c1" CreationDate="2020-02-14T14:46:13.357" UserId="14282" Text="Unfortunately it does not appear that your board can support a TB3 add-in card. The reason for this is because it does not have a THB_C port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[MSI X99S SLI PLUS Specifications][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some examples of add-in cards that are compatible with motherboards that have a THB_C port:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- [Gigabyte GC-Alpine Ridge][2]&#xD;&#xA;- [Asrock Thunderbolt 3 AIC][3]&#xD;&#xA;- [ASUS ThunderboltEX 3][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/X99S-SLI-PLUS/Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722SV69N/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Asrock-Thunderbolt-AIC-Express-DisplayPort/dp/B072JD1WWK/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Expansion-Card-Motherboards-ThunderboltEX/dp/B01HDUVJ54/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45156" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12910" RevisionGUID="b082ba0b-13c8-479c-9253-12773040e36e" CreationDate="2020-02-14T18:18:00.623" UserId="14120" Text="For coding and writing text I need a normal keyboard with a &quot;normal&quot; arrow and delete/home/end/page-down/page-up layout but I don't need the numpad at all. Without the numpad I can keep the mouse in a much more ergonomic position.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a long time I used the Logitech Mediapad but that is discontinued since some years.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a couple of years I used the CM Quickfire which has perfect layout but Cherry MX switches are both too high to be ergonomic for me and also to loud for an office landscape.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a standard, office-friendly keyboard that comes without a numpad?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JCG06.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyRwS.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UDkM.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45157" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12910" RevisionGUID="b082ba0b-13c8-479c-9253-12773040e36e" CreationDate="2020-02-14T18:18:00.623" UserId="14120" Text="Does anyone manufacture a 10 keyless with &quot;normal&quot; arrow and home/end layout and low, silent keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45158" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12910" RevisionGUID="b082ba0b-13c8-479c-9253-12773040e36e" CreationDate="2020-02-14T18:18:00.623" UserId="14120" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45161" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="4776851e-f9b5-4c28-b97c-68121d51e2b5" CreationDate="2020-02-14T22:01:20.150" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45170" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12913" RevisionGUID="952f8107-fd62-4eea-9fc7-221121042b0f" CreationDate="2020-02-15T19:58:40.813" UserId="14387" Text="I'm trying to find a couple of cables, that will let me connect a couple of hard drives, to a couple of USB3's. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drives are 3.5, and I hope to supply their power with a dedicated PSU, all the Sata to USB cables I find on Amazon have wide ends that try to cover both power and data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Does anyone know of a cable that will only connect the data line from Sata to USB3? Is there a hardware limitation that I'm not realizing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45171" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12913" RevisionGUID="952f8107-fd62-4eea-9fc7-221121042b0f" CreationDate="2020-02-15T19:58:40.813" UserId="14387" Text="Sata to USB3 Cable - Data Only, no power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45172" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12913" RevisionGUID="952f8107-fd62-4eea-9fc7-221121042b0f" CreationDate="2020-02-15T19:58:40.813" UserId="14387" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45173" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12913" RevisionGUID="2304d987-5a65-46b2-8807-0e3fa7cd9ee9" CreationDate="2020-02-15T20:06:22.217" UserId="14387" Comment="deleted 19 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to find a type of cable, that will let me connect a hard drive's data line to USB3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drives are 3.5, and I hope to supply their power with a dedicated PSU, all the Sata to USB cables I find on Amazon have wide ends that try to cover both power and data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; Does anyone know of a cable that will only connect the data line from Sata to USB3? Is there a hardware limitation that I'm not realizing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45174" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12914" RevisionGUID="a3f7e191-0cbc-4273-935d-ad7bda5aba7a" CreationDate="2020-02-15T20:35:35.523" UserId="14275" Text="The type of keyboard you are looking for is called &quot;Ten Key Less&quot;. Or TKL in short.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sadly, it seems like they rarely come in membrane form. I haven't seen a single one in all of newegg and amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think your best best is the Logitech G Pro Mechanical Gaming. It has Romer-G switches, which aren't too noisy, and is in the format you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want a more silent solution and don't mind too much the Cherry MX, there's a Red Silent version now. If you want one that looks fine in an office environment, consider this model:&#xD;&#xA;[Durgod Taurus][3]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a comparison of the level of noise of MX vs RomerG check out this video:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ys-W0cHUDs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-920-008290/dp/B06XMRQ68B#customerReviews&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ylT0.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Durgod-Taurus-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B07QK16RDQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mx%2Bsilent&amp;qid=1581798670&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9Fwr.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12917" RevisionGUID="50a5bd5f-482f-438a-a719-c122d44c432f" CreationDate="2020-02-16T22:04:06.200" UserId="14390" Text="I am looking to build an application that needs to display a QR code, and I want to minimize the cost of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just need a preferably square display, capable of displaying a simple QR code with a short url, nothing more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend me something that is as cheap as possible? Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45184" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12917" RevisionGUID="50a5bd5f-482f-438a-a719-c122d44c432f" CreationDate="2020-02-16T22:04:06.200" UserId="14390" Text="Low resolution display for QR Codes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45185" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12917" RevisionGUID="50a5bd5f-482f-438a-a719-c122d44c432f" CreationDate="2020-02-16T22:04:06.200" UserId="14390" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45186" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12918" RevisionGUID="aaa2bd97-88b6-47d1-89e8-54dcfc0bb76e" CreationDate="2020-02-17T00:54:49.677" UserId="6089" Text="Your objective may be resolved with a device known as an e-paper kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![e-paper kit][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The one in the image above is 154 pixels square, qualifying for your low-resolution requirement. There are other sizes on the market, other resolutions and a wide range of costs. The one in the image is priced less than US$10.00. It's uncertain what you consider to be low-cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You should be able to find that you can purchase a processor such as an Arduino or Pi or adapt your current source to the product you select.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon sells a hat for a Pi at a bit higher cost than the above device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Amazon Pi Hat for e-paper][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCNxe.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q95Ep.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45187" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12741" RevisionGUID="34860aa0-3198-4e45-b888-91c2128bf6d6" CreationDate="2020-02-17T01:00:13.570" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45205" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12925" RevisionGUID="7ae1e9ad-a356-4255-875e-146d85369fd6" CreationDate="2020-02-17T20:56:52.417" UserId="1594" Text="I am looking for a single computer IP KVM that doesn't require Java on the client to connect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a computer that needs to be in a location that isn't easy to get to, but occasionally I need to connect to the console during the update process.  In-band connection methos like ssh/vnc/etc are not enough I need to send keys to select a specific boot device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have an older IP KVM that uses Java, but the vendor is no longer really supporting it, and the jars have an expired signature.  It only works with Java 8, doesn't seemt to work with the Adoptopenjdk build, and Oracle recent license changes more or less make this an unusable piece of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- IP KVM&#xD;&#xA;- VGA + USB connections to computer&#xD;&#xA;- Cross platoform client connectivity from at least Linux/Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- Looking for something less then $500 if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been searching Google and various sites for IP KVMs and almost everything I am finding either doesn't provide enough details about what is required, or requires Java.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So to summarize I am tired with fighting making newer Java versions work with my older [IP-KVM](https://www.lantronix.com/products/lantronix-spider/). I want something that does not require java at all and preferably is and HTML5-based interface like why my newer Dells have on the latest iDRAC.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45206" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12925" RevisionGUID="7ae1e9ad-a356-4255-875e-146d85369fd6" CreationDate="2020-02-17T20:56:52.417" UserId="1594" Text="Single computer IP KVM - that does **not** use Java" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45207" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12925" RevisionGUID="7ae1e9ad-a356-4255-875e-146d85369fd6" CreationDate="2020-02-17T20:56:52.417" UserId="1594" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45215" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12814" RevisionGUID="fb623ebb-ce5d-4bc7-aa31-7933efa04a11" CreationDate="2020-02-18T09:02:35.360" UserId="-1" Comment="92" />
  <row Id="45230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12930" RevisionGUID="3243dddf-c111-4aac-bfb8-d9c5f959c74f" CreationDate="2020-02-19T20:30:48.330" UserId="1873" Text="A proper answer this time, since you seemed interested in my comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are up to it, [AudioWeaver](https://dspconcepts.com/audio-weaver/st), the DSP code generation tool is free for ST Microelectronics microcontrollers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How this works, is you create an effect/EQ/what you want in AudioWeaver and upload it to the memory integrated in the microcontroller. It then functions as a sound card. During development you use a second USB cable to upload the effect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do not want to design a custom board, two not expensive kits are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [STM32F4DISCOVERY](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/stm32f4discovery.html), listed on ST's website for 20 USD&#xD;&#xA;- [32F769IDISCOVERY](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/32f769idiscovery.html) this one is 49 USD without display, 80 with, but has a bit more CPU power and a whopping 8 MB of RAM. Also the DAC looks a bit better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do keep in mind that the DACs used are not top class and the analog part is fully integrated into the DAC ICs, meaning that it will not be top quality (but you probably can't hear it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other points raised in comments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AudioWeaver itself is Windows only, but all your settings are written to the board, so they are remembered through power cycles.&#xD;&#xA;- I believe the board shows up as a standard sound card, meaning it should work with most systems - I certainly did not install any drivers on W10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45231" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12930" RevisionGUID="4a5f291b-4abc-4f9d-a4c7-b6014706be6b" CreationDate="2020-02-19T21:11:27.123" UserId="1873" Comment="Add more points to clarify" Text="A proper answer this time, since you seemed interested in my comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are up to it, [AudioWeaver](https://dspconcepts.com/audio-weaver/st), the DSP code generation tool is free for ST Microelectronics microcontrollers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How this works, is you create an effect/EQ/what you want in AudioWeaver and upload it to the memory integrated in the microcontroller. It then functions as a sound card. During development you use a second USB cable to upload the effect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do not want to design a custom board, two not expensive kits are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [STM32F4DISCOVERY](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/stm32f4discovery.html), listed on ST's website for 20 USD&#xD;&#xA;- [32F769IDISCOVERY](https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/32f769idiscovery.html) this one is 49 USD without display, 80 with, but has a bit more CPU power and a whopping 8 MB of RAM. Also the DAC looks a bit better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do keep in mind that the DACs used are not top class and the analog part is fully integrated into the DAC ICs, meaning that it will not be top quality (but you probably can't hear it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some other points raised in comments:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- AudioWeaver itself is Windows only, but all your settings are written to the board, so they are remembered through power cycles.&#xD;&#xA;- I believe the board shows up as a standard sound card, meaning it should work with most systems - I certainly did not install any drivers on W10&#xD;&#xA;- You only pay for the board&#xD;&#xA;- You only use one &quot;IDE&quot; - Audio Weaver - to generate and upload the binary to the board&#xD;&#xA;- If you wish to, you can generate a set of libraries which you can link to your own code (perhaps allowing for using the touch screen to control your effect?)&#xD;&#xA;- If you like tinkering, a quick google shows that the F407 board is supported by Arduino IDE&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a [video demonstration on YT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcxPK96x7J0)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12931" RevisionGUID="785d140f-f160-4e6b-abb3-31363def8f77" CreationDate="2020-02-19T21:53:41.907" UserId="10648" Text="&quot;KVM over IP&quot; products are essentially obsolete now.  &#xD;&#xA;Modern server-tier motherboards come with this functionality built into their remote management features, and it has been largely standardized across all systems for a given CPU brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Intel boards you want the &quot;V-Pro&quot; or &quot;AMT&quot; feature set.  &#xD;&#xA;[KVM with Intel AMT](https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/how-to-create-intel-active-management-technology-kvm-solutions)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use [Mesh Commander](https://www.meshcommander.com/) to connect to Intel AMT systems from an HTML client.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On AMD it would be called &quot;DASH&quot;. It seems like AMD DASH just uses VNC, so many HTML clients are available for that too.  &#xD;&#xA;[AMD Tools for DMTF DASH](https://developer.amd.com/tools-for-dmtf-dash/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12931" RevisionGUID="c840397a-23a0-4bf6-afbf-a73414ba421f" CreationDate="2020-02-19T22:14:11.120" UserId="10648" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="&quot;KVM over IP&quot; products are essentially obsolete now.  &#xD;&#xA;Modern server-tier motherboards come with this functionality built into their remote management features, and it has been largely standardized across all systems for a given CPU brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Intel boards you want the &quot;V-Pro&quot; or &quot;AMT&quot; feature set.  &#xD;&#xA;[KVM with Intel AMT](https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/how-to-create-intel-active-management-technology-kvm-solutions)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use [Mesh Commander](https://www.meshcommander.com/) to connect to Intel AMT systems from an HTML client.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On AMD these features would be called &quot;DASH&quot;. It seems like AMD DASH just uses VNC, so many HTML clients are available for that too.  &#xD;&#xA;[AMD Tools for DMTF DASH](https://developer.amd.com/tools-for-dmtf-dash/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45235" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12933" RevisionGUID="066312dc-a456-435d-b2ce-793dbd43d1fc" CreationDate="2020-02-20T16:20:59.723" UserId="9599" Text="I am looking for a type of digital watch where hours and minutes would show as binary, e.g. with an LED on for a 1 and off for a 0. So 12:30 would show as:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xD;&#xA;1100:011110&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(since `12 = 1*8 + 1*4 + 0*2 + 0`, and `30 = 0*32 + 1*16 + 1*8 + 1*4 + 1*2 + 0*1`). With lights, it would give:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xD;&#xA;**  : **** &#xD;&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would both be fun and useful training for finding patterns and reading in binary. Ideally it would switch from endian-ness, big or little.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found items advertised as &quot;binary digital watch&quot; which have an LED next to an hour or a minute, but I want a watch only in binary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine it would be feasible with a microcontroller like a microbit or Arduino Nano and addressable LEDs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it already exist, or has anyone built something similar?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45236" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12933" RevisionGUID="066312dc-a456-435d-b2ce-793dbd43d1fc" CreationDate="2020-02-20T16:20:59.723" UserId="9599" Text="Binary digital watch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45237" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12933" RevisionGUID="066312dc-a456-435d-b2ce-793dbd43d1fc" CreationDate="2020-02-20T16:20:59.723" UserId="9599" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45239" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12934" RevisionGUID="c657ffb5-8741-46be-9040-a4463303c591" CreationDate="2020-02-20T16:50:07.327" UserId="6089" Text="There are a number of binary clock designs on [Instructables][1], as well as a few binary watch models. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![binary wrist watch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One great aspect of Instructables is that you can begin with a post you like and modify it to meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.instructables.com/howto/binary+watch/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QcwD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12934" RevisionGUID="4b33906d-d102-46f5-af03-7cd9684d5ef1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T22:42:50.857" UserId="6089" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="There are a number of binary clock designs on [Instructables][1], as well as a few binary watch models. Due to a sign-on requirement for searches, the above link now goes only to Instructables. Use &quot;binary watch&quot; in the search box for the same results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![binary wrist watch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One great aspect of Instructables is that you can begin with a post you like and modify it to meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.instructables.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QcwD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12935" RevisionGUID="0150c907-0e38-4055-b078-60208361d312" CreationDate="2020-02-21T14:54:14.937" UserId="14411" Text="I would like to buy a new laptop, and this issue appeared: &lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;If there is a notebook with 1.4 ghz proc, and there is an another with 2.6 ghz from the same serial, how this parameters related to the battery draining.&lt;br /&gt;&#xD;&#xA;I mean if I use the #1 for general purpose, and the #2 for general purpose, is there a countable battery draining time?&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12935" RevisionGUID="0150c907-0e38-4055-b078-60208361d312" CreationDate="2020-02-21T14:54:14.937" UserId="14411" Text="Processor and battery relations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12935" RevisionGUID="0150c907-0e38-4055-b078-60208361d312" CreationDate="2020-02-21T14:54:14.937" UserId="14411" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12936" RevisionGUID="86856d10-8e3d-4c79-8058-aeb13095b10b" CreationDate="2020-02-21T17:28:17.623" UserId="14061" Text="The TDP of an i5-8269U is 28 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TDP = thermal design power = most power cpu will draw when running @ 100% = one of the best ways to gauge a CPU's impact regarding power draw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/137980/intel-core-i5-8269u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-4-20-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; if I use... for general purpose... is there a countable battery draining time?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;probably not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;General purpose use will rarely get cpu usage high; would kind of have to define what you mean by &quot;general purpose use&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The i5-8269 is an *8th-generation Intel Core i5*.  You mention *the #1 is the base 13' mac: 1.4GHz quad-core 8th-generation Intel Core i5 processor* but do not specify the CPU model number.  In any case if both CPU's are an 8-gen cpu then **for general purpose use** those CPU's are likely not run anywhere 100% thus they will typically down clock in frequency to save power.  This is known as *frequency scaling* or *cpu throttling*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as I type this, the i7-6700k in my win10 desktop pc is a 4ghz cpu having TDP of 91 watt, but is currently only running at 0.8 ghz per CoreTemp, thus drawing very little power.  Basically every late model cpu will operate this way, such that you shouldn't worry about power draw based on cpu **for general purpose** use.  But if you game or crunch numbers then the cpu would draw extra power and reduce laptop battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you have to choose between two cpu's, both being 8th-generation Intel Core i5, then choose the one having the highest base clock frequency.  That will provide better performance whenever needed, which should be rarely because you said &quot;general purpose use&quot;.  Laptop cpu's are very good now at power management and it would be incorrect to assume or infer that a higher frequency cpu will *always* draw more power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45259" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12542" RevisionGUID="5df36a7b-c8d4-4f37-9fad-d9fd7f4609ab" CreationDate="2020-02-22T11:02:10.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12942" RevisionGUID="c960f2c1-3c07-4854-bd65-628b5b991f1c" CreationDate="2020-02-22T13:16:46.937" UserId="1226" Text="I'd recommend some 3.5-based drive from WDC like Elements Desktop or My Book 6Tb. WDC seems to be a best manufacturer in the terms of reliability nowadays according to this study https://github.com/linuxhw/SMART#hdd-by-vendor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45266" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="d68504e3-c5aa-49f2-afe0-379f7bdd2ba5" CreationDate="2020-02-22T21:37:19.497" UserId="9825" Text="An upgrade left me with some components to reuse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and I want a Linux-friendly build for virtualization. Here's what I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which motherboard(s) would you recommend? &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45267" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="d68504e3-c5aa-49f2-afe0-379f7bdd2ba5" CreationDate="2020-02-22T21:37:19.497" UserId="9825" Text="Wanted: Linux-friendly AM4 motherboard, multiple M.2 slots" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45268" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="d68504e3-c5aa-49f2-afe0-379f7bdd2ba5" CreationDate="2020-02-22T21:37:19.497" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45274" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="4de3b9f8-9947-46c3-b350-08eb197a9789" CreationDate="2020-02-23T12:14:52.553" UserId="14417" Text="I have three screens connected to my PC and I want to rotate one of them so that it's vertical. I'm not talking about rotating the image; I know I can do that in Display Preferences. I am talking about physically rotating the monitor itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, none of my three screens have stands which would allow the user to pick if he wants to position the screen vertically or horizontally - only the horizontal placement is possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is not acceptable for me and I am looking for a way to bypass this. Is there an extra piece of equipment that can be strapped on to the monitor or the stand that would allow the monitor to be vertical?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45275" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="4de3b9f8-9947-46c3-b350-08eb197a9789" CreationDate="2020-02-23T12:14:52.553" UserId="14417" Text="How to rotate a monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45276" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="4de3b9f8-9947-46c3-b350-08eb197a9789" CreationDate="2020-02-23T12:14:52.553" UserId="14417" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12945" RevisionGUID="5be7acc1-6aa4-4928-bc13-a54a9eccc33c" CreationDate="2020-02-23T12:26:19.517" UserId="1873" Text="Check if any of your display has a [Vesa Mount](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Display_Mounting_Interface). The mount itself uses 4 screws in a 75 or 100 mm square so you can use the screen in any orientation. 3rd party stands are easily available online, ranging from no-names to big brands like Dell or Iiyama. There are stands, wall mounts and desk edge mounts available. Most don't allow free rotation of the screen - you would need to unmount the screen and replace it into another orientation.&#xA;&#xA;Be warned though, I've had issues with cheap mounts sagging (the last vertical angle hinge).&#xA;&#xA;Also, two people are recommended for assembly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12945" RevisionGUID="cd4cf5b7-ad5c-44a3-b03b-38d428e4f896" CreationDate="2020-02-23T16:31:39.037" UserId="1873" Comment="Added info to include specifics for OPs displays after getting the information." Text="Check if any of your display has a [Vesa Mount](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Display_Mounting_Interface). The mount itself uses 4 screws in a 75 or 100 mm square so you can use the screen in any orientation. 3rd party stands are easily available online, ranging from no-names to big brands like Dell or Iiyama. There are stands, wall mounts and desk edge mounts available. Most don't allow free rotation of the screen - you would need to unmount the screen and replace it into another orientation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Be warned though, I've had issues with cheap mounts sagging (the last vertical angle hinge).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, two people are recommended for assembly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you listed your monitors in comments, the Dell E2218HN does have a mount, Dell even lists it as compatible on their [MSA14 Single Monitor Arm Stand](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-single-monitor-arm/apd/332-1235/monitors-monitor-accessories). That one is mounted to the back edge of your desk. While expensive, this is just an example product and there are cheaper ones. There is also a [stand](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/ergotech-dmrs-1-stand-for-lcd-display-steel-screen-size-13-inch-32-inch-desktop/apd/a9935252/monitors-monitor-accessories) but I am not 100% it will be high enough for you to mount a 22&quot; vertically on it - it should be. The Phillips PHL 223v5 has a mount as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do note that TN displays (both your Dell and Phillips) don't have good vertical angles, regardless of manufacturer boasts. I have a 22&quot; Iiyama which had pivot in factory stand, with supposed 160 degrees vertical and it still does not look good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="defdbaa1-4f52-4e8c-a43c-8df1c2351b5d" CreationDate="2020-02-23T16:36:44.557" UserId="14417" Comment="added 112 characters in body" Text="I have three screens connected to my PC and I want to rotate one of them so that it's vertical. I'm not talking about rotating the image; I know I can do that in Display Preferences. I am talking about physically rotating the monitor itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, none of my three screens have stands which would allow the user to pick if he wants to position the screen vertically or horizontally - only the horizontal placement is possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is not acceptable for me and I am looking for a way to bypass this. Is there an extra piece of equipment that can be strapped on to the monitor or the stand that would allow the monitor to be vertical?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the screens that I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung S22B300&#xD;&#xA; - Philips PHL 223V5&#xD;&#xA; - Dell E2218HN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45284" PostHistoryTypeId="52" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="702d40f3-c32f-4c5a-b6a8-1c61ab133b71" CreationDate="2020-02-23T20:28:59.357" />
  <row Id="45285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="2f6f0ef7-542d-4bec-91f7-2e32d885e40c" CreationDate="2020-02-23T20:58:17.050" UserId="10523" Text="I previously had an HP 5 button optical comfort mouse but these are now end of life for some reason with no apparent like-for-like replacement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One 'slit' button each side meant no uncomfortable straining for the right button and kept things nice and simple. Today's range of mice seems to be vying with mobile phone handsets in the straining discomfort stakes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="2f6f0ef7-542d-4bec-91f7-2e32d885e40c" CreationDate="2020-02-23T20:58:17.050" UserId="10523" Text="Need a Mouse with a scrollwheel, back browser shortcut button on the thumb side and forward shortcut button on the ring finger side" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="2f6f0ef7-542d-4bec-91f7-2e32d885e40c" CreationDate="2020-02-23T20:58:17.050" UserId="10523" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45300" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12952" RevisionGUID="e8e5a22d-99d8-40b6-bbf3-bb954f7183fe" CreationDate="2020-02-25T18:56:23.263" UserId="14061" Text="&gt; small company (around 20 employees)... small server... access to shared storage and sync outlook tasks/calendars... and maybe do some light processing on it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What sort of specs are recommended for running a Windows Server (mostly for Microsoft Exchange).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;my first recommendation would be to talk to your boss, chief information officer, or president (depending on company) because today doing what you are asking is no longer a trivial matter, especially regarding data security, legal requirements, lawsuits, etc.  So you don't just want to build any old computer/server and have it wherever.  Talk to whoever would be held accountable for such a problem should it arise,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;that may then lead to a dedicated server room being made available, having locked door or badged access, where you can set up resources and have it functional and reliable... *reusing a nice gaming rig* is not professional.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;basically... workstations (i.e. your thought of gaming rig) are desktop pc's which will be limited to ~ 64gb or ram and are expected to be used by one person at a time.  A server can be the same hardware, but will be in a rack server form factor, hold greater than 64gb of ram, and allow for better networking capability, to allow reliable and better performance to run MS exchange mail server and provide a data share.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you may want to look into NAS - network attached storage, which will be separate disks and hardware to provide data storage which would be separate from an MS exchange server; having one server do everything increases likelihood of everything not working one morning when something fails (and it will) so you have to plan all that out and understand what you actually need vs want vs budget.  For however small a company, you just don't throw a gaming rig together to allow the company to do business; if it needs to be &quot;cheap&quot; then you may want to rethink your business strategy.  You can find small business servers from DellEMC or HPE, you would call them tell them what you need and they will advise you on the type of hardware to be used, and you can always get refurbished/reconditioned if you are looking for *less expensive* equipment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12955" RevisionGUID="164fd031-c8c7-4140-abcd-efa59980dbf0" CreationDate="2020-02-25T20:33:56.710" UserId="14427" Text="Any X-series board really works for you on top of the 2 gen, most have more than 1 m.2 port in case you need more you can use one of the PCI ports with which you can have up to 2 SSD M.2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="f5899949-75a3-4d33-8515-81829b26f5e5" CreationDate="2020-02-25T22:24:59.327" UserId="9825" Comment="added 234 characters in body" Text="An upgrade left me with some components to reuse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and I want a Linux-friendly build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. Don't know if that requires [IOMMU][1] as all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which motherboard(s) would you recommend? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12960" RevisionGUID="fedb1d49-2d41-4c88-9d70-e8c498bb2da8" CreationDate="2020-02-26T07:55:39.727" UserId="14431" Text="I need a WiFi adapter for my Linux desktop computer. The modern WiFi adapter usually lack the support for Linux platform (don't not need manually installation (include in linux-firmware)), but manually driver installation is also acceptable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The PCI-E adapter is not in the range of consideration. I just want a USB WiFi adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It don't have to support very latest standard. It just need to support 2.4GHz (and 5GHz optional), 802.11b/g/n is OK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does this kind of USB WiFi adapter exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45314" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12960" RevisionGUID="fedb1d49-2d41-4c88-9d70-e8c498bb2da8" CreationDate="2020-02-26T07:55:39.727" UserId="14431" Text="Which USB wifi adapter has best open source driver on Linux (linux-firmware ...) support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45315" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12960" RevisionGUID="fedb1d49-2d41-4c88-9d70-e8c498bb2da8" CreationDate="2020-02-26T07:55:39.727" UserId="14431" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45316" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12961" RevisionGUID="fbe0393d-e9dd-4307-a107-2a42b971b873" CreationDate="2020-02-26T08:02:50.597" UserId="14432" Text="I'm searching for a Car Radio with Android as a complete system. The Car Radio should support USB-Debugging via the PC.&#xD;&#xA;Is there such a Car Radio?&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45317" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12961" RevisionGUID="fbe0393d-e9dd-4307-a107-2a42b971b873" CreationDate="2020-02-26T08:02:50.597" UserId="14432" Text="Car Radio with Android" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45318" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12961" RevisionGUID="fbe0393d-e9dd-4307-a107-2a42b971b873" CreationDate="2020-02-26T08:02:50.597" UserId="14432" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11316" RevisionGUID="2778617f-8752-410a-b4d9-2377821c55af" CreationDate="2020-02-26T18:04:17.023" UserId="12682" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="i have **140 drivers &amp; 200+ not more than 300 bookings from passengers** within 24 hours. So, i want to **deploy my taxi app on a cloud server**. Same uber concept but this one is using taxi. **Can someone recommend me the amount of computing power i need to run this taxi app for a smooth transaction in a month. Like the amount of Ram, Storage, CPU's etc** etc. &#xA;&#xA;Um using PHP LARAVEL 7, SQL XAMPP, CSS, HTML. &#xA;&#xA;Your help is highly appreciated. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45324" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12963" RevisionGUID="5d0417ad-5875-4945-80e8-57e6aa98ad58" CreationDate="2020-02-26T19:25:36.600" UserId="10307" Text="I am looking for a USB-based WiFi adapter which should be extremely compact, that is not much bigger than the USB-C connector it's based on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needn't be able to reach more than 2-3 meters with reasonable bandwidth, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen fairly compact USB-A WiFi adapters, but so far none with USB-C." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45325" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12963" RevisionGUID="5d0417ad-5875-4945-80e8-57e6aa98ad58" CreationDate="2020-02-26T19:25:36.600" UserId="10307" Text="Looking for an extremely compact USB-C WiFi adapter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45326" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12963" RevisionGUID="5d0417ad-5875-4945-80e8-57e6aa98ad58" CreationDate="2020-02-26T19:25:36.600" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12965" RevisionGUID="4ae0763b-ab85-4c97-ae1b-f2ce9ebd78d2" CreationDate="2020-02-26T23:10:59.427" UserId="14436" Text="I’m developing kind of a POS system for my school cafe. It doesn’t need to work with payments, instead it works with the member system. The system will be running in Raspberry Pi and Python, connecting to the member system API.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When a customer buys something, they enter their member number and that should go to a database with the amount they purchased. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the customers to enter their number in a pin pad; however, I don’t know what pin pad I should use. I have read on Verifone and Ingenico pin pads but they require an encryption key by a merchant, but since we won’t be working with payments, security is not that essential. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought about using keypads, but I can’t find one that includes a mini screen and is rugged enough for this type of application. I appreciate any suggestions on the matter, or if I’m better off going with a touchscreen for the Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12965" RevisionGUID="4ae0763b-ab85-4c97-ae1b-f2ce9ebd78d2" CreationDate="2020-02-26T23:10:59.427" UserId="14436" Text="What Pin Pad for Raspberry Pi POS with no payments involved?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12965" RevisionGUID="4ae0763b-ab85-4c97-ae1b-f2ce9ebd78d2" CreationDate="2020-02-26T23:10:59.427" UserId="14436" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9618" RevisionGUID="c7e618b9-3bdf-4f96-b306-9f8f148ec56b" CreationDate="2020-02-27T11:27:23.873" UserId="1410" Comment="added 391 characters in body" Text="I don't mind cobbling one together with a Raspberry Pi &amp; accessories, if that is possible. In fact, it might be a bonus if I can program it myself. But that isn't a requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Otherwise, I am looking for a cheap, portable RFID reader with 2 to 3 metre range. Preferable passive tags, but I will take active if it somehow brings the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A ***must have*** is a Bluetooh or WiFi interface to transmit the value just read, plus some storage in case it is out of range, so that it can store values read &amp; transmit them when in range. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The more that I think of this, the more that I want to code it myself :-)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheap means sub $50, preferably cheaper. An IP67 housing is desirable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12968" RevisionGUID="db751e84-09d6-49ad-b617-233fc6694a1c" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:00:07.070" UserId="14287" Text="I am redesigning our bathroom and currently looking at two different light sources&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 12V LED spots with a dimmable LED driver (via 1kHz PWM)&#xD;&#xA; - Some sort of chandelier with a E27 (bulb).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want the bulb also to be dimmable. I found [this][1] bulb, which needs a classic triac dimmer. Since I want to control the lights using a self build controller (based on the SAM51J) I do not know the correct approach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking for dimmable 12V bulbs but was not able to find anything commercial. Either they are dimmable with a LED-driver or via &quot;Smart&quot;-Bulbs (zigbee or similar).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a bulb with E27 which I can dim over a 12V LED-Driver?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: redirected from [here][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://at.rs-online.com/web/p/gls-led-lampen/1235908?cm_mmc=AT-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_AT_DE_Beleuchtung_Whoop_HI-_-(AT:Whoop!)%20GLS%20LED-%20Lampen-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&amp;matchtype=&amp;aud-826607888547:pla-333414383946&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAy9jyBRA6EiwAeclQhD9DlI0DVNNIUtTUnt1RwW-xA1QLxWSKrDxiBBeDUmoYznOSyM3RMRoCbNUQAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://iot.stackexchange.com/questions/4908/dimmable-led-bulb?noredirect=1#comment10556_4908" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45339" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12968" RevisionGUID="db751e84-09d6-49ad-b617-233fc6694a1c" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:00:07.070" UserId="14287" Text="Dimmable LED bulb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45340" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12968" RevisionGUID="db751e84-09d6-49ad-b617-233fc6694a1c" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:00:07.070" UserId="14287" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12969" RevisionGUID="1f57976a-70be-4475-aa07-556372ce0bb8" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:02:10.000" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me gaming phone with LCD display without notch and rounded corners. With custom ROMs available and dual sim." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45342" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12969" RevisionGUID="1f57976a-70be-4475-aa07-556372ce0bb8" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:02:10.000" UserId="14109" Text="Suggest me gaming phone with LCD display without notch and rounded corners" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45343" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12969" RevisionGUID="1f57976a-70be-4475-aa07-556372ce0bb8" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:02:10.000" UserId="14109" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="0b13be91-5e3b-4686-b6db-0052df157c96" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:45:10.933" UserId="1410" Comment="added 70 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="I am looking for a cheap, programmable drone, for use in UK, to use in a Minimal Viable Product for a system that will later use more highly spec’ed drones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to accept a programmed flight plan (*)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to carry an ESP32 (approx. 10g) and a coin cell battery (2.9g), possibly an altimeter of GPS sensor (I would guess 5g, max 10g)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Long flight time is not important, but I would like 5, preferably 10 minutes  &#xD;&#xA;•	Outdoor use, not indoor, although I can live with being restricted to calm days  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(*) I am not sure if UK law requires a human drone operator, rather than a programmed flight plan. If that’s the law, I will comply, but I have a strong preference for programming a series of waypoints. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] do I need to be licensed to flay adrone in the UK?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45345" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="0b13be91-5e3b-4686-b6db-0052df157c96" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:45:10.933" UserId="1410" Comment="added 70 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Cheap programmable drone, for use in the UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45346" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="0b13be91-5e3b-4686-b6db-0052df157c96" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:45:10.933" UserId="1410" Comment="added 70 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;drone&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12970" RevisionGUID="4e9ce3ce-4fbf-43ab-aa51-d768590da55a" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:46:02.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45348" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12970" RevisionGUID="4e9ce3ce-4fbf-43ab-aa51-d768590da55a" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:46:02.713" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12971" RevisionGUID="a67c5f02-498f-486f-924e-04a3d025f09a" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:46:02.713" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45350" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12971" RevisionGUID="a67c5f02-498f-486f-924e-04a3d025f09a" CreationDate="2020-02-27T12:46:02.713" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45351" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12972" RevisionGUID="8c570a9d-0068-4a81-9764-05d32e5311c2" CreationDate="2020-02-27T16:44:39.750" UserId="14440" Text="I am looking for a NAS that would accommodate the following things, some are essential, some are optional, here they are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It should hold 4 or 5 disks (this depends of the answer to the question I will ask at the end of my topic)&#xD;&#xA; 2. It should be able to reuse my ARECA 1214 card that is in my Desktop. Since I will use the 4 disks that currently are in my desktop computer and want to reproduce the same setup (2 raid 1 grapes of 2 disks each, holding only data)&#xD;&#xA; 3. It should be capable of handling CAT7 local network speeds (10Gbps)&#xD;&#xA; 4. I need to be able to perform a backup of it's data using Acronis backup 11.5 or Acronis True Image 2019/20 (I currently use Acronis Backup 11.5 and I don't wish to change)&#xD;&#xA; 5. I need to be able to install a plex server on it&#xD;&#xA; 6. I need to be able to install retropie on it, and it should offer a better performance than my current Raspberry Pi3&#xD;&#xA; 7. I'd like to connect it to my Samsung Smartthing hub (does this even exists ?)&#xD;&#xA; 8. Bluethooth connection to bluethooth sound speakers ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the question I have, I want to make sure my datas are separated from my software, which mean I do not want to install retropie and plex on the disks that will hold my files (medias, games, my tax files etc etc ...). I suppose there's an OS on a NAS which has to be installed somewhere, so would I need a special fifth disk for that ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will also want to create symbolic links from the system disk to the data disks in order to save configuration settings (essentially: plex configuration, music player settings and library files, symbolic link for retropie to find roms etc ...)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the Holy Graal exists at a reasonable price ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45352" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12972" RevisionGUID="8c570a9d-0068-4a81-9764-05d32e5311c2" CreationDate="2020-02-27T16:44:39.750" UserId="14440" Text="NAS recommendation for the following needs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45353" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12972" RevisionGUID="8c570a9d-0068-4a81-9764-05d32e5311c2" CreationDate="2020-02-27T16:44:39.750" UserId="14440" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45354" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="249bbe2d-8301-4c3d-9bb6-264dae2d69e9" CreationDate="2020-02-27T17:03:35.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45355" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="60430e25-2672-46d6-8c41-b3dec38cd796" CreationDate="2020-02-27T20:02:45.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45356" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="3f71efef-6c64-4fbf-8c86-c33681da11b8" CreationDate="2020-02-27T21:02:40.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45364" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12974" RevisionGUID="44bfc114-93fe-45b0-999a-6e4190c35378" CreationDate="2020-02-28T05:31:37.227" UserId="14365" Text="Considering you are opting for a gaming phone here are some recommendations:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Asus ROG Phone II(Recommended)&#xD;&#xA; 2. RAZER PHONE 2&#xD;&#xA; 3. Apple iPhone XR&#xD;&#xA; 4. OnePlus 7T&#xD;&#xA; 5. OnePlus 7 Pro&#xD;&#xA; 6. XIAOMI BLACK SHARK 2&#xD;&#xA; 7. Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite&#xD;&#xA; 8. Nubia Red Magic 3s&#xD;&#xA; ....&#xD;&#xA; ....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And many more!!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12975" RevisionGUID="76630708-f625-4a70-b3fb-b4cd658163fd" CreationDate="2020-02-28T06:28:11.880" UserId="14441" Text="I'm wondering if there exists any kind of splitter USB-C splitter that allows for charging and Thunderbolt display through a single port. I know they have this for splitters the take a USB-C Thunderbolt and split it into a USB-C port and an HDMI, I'm wondering if this sort of thing exists for USB-C Thunderbolt displays. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know large docks are made, but those are fairly expensive and have many extra ports that I'm not interested in. If this sort of thing doesn't exist, is there a reason why? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45366" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12975" RevisionGUID="76630708-f625-4a70-b3fb-b4cd658163fd" CreationDate="2020-02-28T06:28:11.880" UserId="14441" Text="A Simple USB-C Thunderbolt Splitter Capable of Charging and Outputting Video?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45367" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12975" RevisionGUID="76630708-f625-4a70-b3fb-b4cd658163fd" CreationDate="2020-02-28T06:28:11.880" UserId="14441" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45368" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="00677452-fe76-4d8c-bb2d-cc483d474a03" CreationDate="2020-02-28T14:03:00.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="4d12323e-dea6-4617-8463-225d4f73e0b0" CreationDate="2020-02-28T14:23:59.693" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I have a condition where I must stand all the time and cannot stop walking but would like to resume programming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a strappable keyboard the would allow me to code on my cellphone will AIDE while walking.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a split keyboard that I can wear on my torso while looking at my cellphone or tablet straight downwards or in front. The equipment would look like a life jacket with the keyboard on the sides of the stomach. As part of the same piece or as a hat, the cell phone could be strapped on with a regulatable wire that held the phone or tablet in front of the user." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45370" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="4d12323e-dea6-4617-8463-225d4f73e0b0" CreationDate="2020-02-28T14:23:59.693" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 6047, 203 edit id of 1017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45372" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11853" RevisionGUID="7106f55b-501a-4ba7-9077-45cdb7bd72e4" CreationDate="2020-02-28T19:01:02.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45373" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12976" RevisionGUID="368c6f0f-c2d3-4c62-9017-78cfc3570298" CreationDate="2020-02-28T19:10:18.170" UserId="14445" Text="I am new in hardware so I hope this is the right place to ask such questions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For one of my software projects, I want to add a QR scanner that able to makes POST requests to the server over WIFI. It has to be programmable because only specific information from QR code has to be retrieved. QR code will be changing every 2 seconds and scanned from mobile devices all the time. Not expensive since I might need over 50 devices. I knew Python a bit, so maybe the device should support that language. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would like to mount it to the wall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something similar to the one the picture would be ideal&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be thankful for any direct link or hints on how to search by myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N0Oh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45374" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12976" RevisionGUID="368c6f0f-c2d3-4c62-9017-78cfc3570298" CreationDate="2020-02-28T19:10:18.170" UserId="14445" Text="Programmable QR scanner is needed" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45375" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12976" RevisionGUID="368c6f0f-c2d3-4c62-9017-78cfc3570298" CreationDate="2020-02-28T19:10:18.170" UserId="14445" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12977" RevisionGUID="1794c889-0d04-4427-8143-08a08c2eb631" CreationDate="2020-02-28T20:03:49.730" UserId="14446" Text="I am looking for headphones with decent audio quality like Bose QuietComfort, but because I talk occasionally I need good microphone quality, therefore I need to be able to use to headphones via usb (type c would be also ok). Could not find such, except some Jabras but the earpads are small for me. I am not sure if this stack website is the correct place, but I decided to ask here, as I might receive help from more competent people. Thank you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45377" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12977" RevisionGUID="1794c889-0d04-4427-8143-08a08c2eb631" CreationDate="2020-02-28T20:03:49.730" UserId="14446" Text="Bluetooth headphones that can be used with usb" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45378" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12977" RevisionGUID="1794c889-0d04-4427-8143-08a08c2eb631" CreationDate="2020-02-28T20:03:49.730" UserId="14446" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45379" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12978" RevisionGUID="f31e1c95-ebd1-45e0-873b-48e829f9b5c5" CreationDate="2020-02-28T22:26:18.157" UserId="14447" Text="I'm looking for a USB-C hub/dongle with two USB-C ports that support Power Delivery charging and USB-C 4K video output.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm connecting my 16&quot; MBP to an LG 4K monitor via a USB-C to DisplayPort cable; however, the LG doesn't return sufficient power to charge the MBP. So I need one USB-C port for connecting to the monitor and the other USB-C port for connecting to the MBP charger. Of course, the hub/dongle needs to have a few USB Type-A ports, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The second USB-C port on every hub/dongle I've seen so far can only be used for data transfer. Is this a limitation of the USB specification?&#xD;&#xA;Or is it a rare use-case and not enough vendors out there building such hubs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45380" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12978" RevisionGUID="f31e1c95-ebd1-45e0-873b-48e829f9b5c5" CreationDate="2020-02-28T22:26:18.157" UserId="14447" Text="Looking for USB-C hub with USB-C port for Power Delivery *and* USB-C port for video output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45381" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12978" RevisionGUID="f31e1c95-ebd1-45e0-873b-48e829f9b5c5" CreationDate="2020-02-28T22:26:18.157" UserId="14447" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;usb&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45386" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12980" RevisionGUID="44286fae-219f-435f-b024-e872658fd8d5" CreationDate="2020-02-29T07:00:05.993" UserId="14448" Text="Your question is a bit over my head from a technical perspective.  LED bulbs are a lot more complicated than incandescent (sometimes that's a good thing in terms of added features, sometimes it's a bad thing in terms of compatibility with existing systems).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I am very much aware LED bulbs don't dim like traditional incandescent bulbs.  The room just gets darker and it looks extremely unnatural.  I'm not sure what country you're in or if these would be available in your area, but I've found the [Philips Warm Glow Effect bulbs](https://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/consumer/choose-a-bulb/warm-glow-dimmable-led-lighting) (or probably any brand bulb with a 'warm glow' effect) to be a superior dimmable light bulb.  The dimming effect is exactly like a traditional incandescent bulb.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't work for the company.  I'm just a person who made this discovery through trial-and-error.  I recommend these bulbs to everyone to save them from the same hassle I went through in trying different bulbs but never really being satisfied with the end result.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the bulb you linked to says it's dimmable in the 'Properties and advantages' but then later says it's not dimmable in the 'Technical data of the item shown' so that's quite the discrepancy!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12981" RevisionGUID="66f8c01c-5ea9-48b7-82b0-399af9ffa8c3" CreationDate="2020-02-29T07:32:29.680" UserId="1410" Text="I don't know it the image sbelow are too much info, or too little. Feel free to correct me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a desktop which I use only as a file serve/continuous backup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is runnig slowly and I thought that could benefit from more RAM (agree, or do I need a new motehrboard?).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 2 @ &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Capacity	4 GB   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Manufacturer	Kingston   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Model	99U5584-005.A   &#xD;&#xA;&gt; Type	DDR3 / PC3-12800  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and two empty slots. I was thinking of adding 1 @ 8gB, which ought not to be too expensive &amp; see it perfomance improves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BUT, I can't find an exact match for the current RAM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What to do?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - new motherboard &amp; RAM?  &#xD;&#xA; - new, non-matching, but compatible RAM? Which?  &#xD;&#xA; - repalce all RAM? with what?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----   &#xD;&#xA;I hope that this is enough info :  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyxOQ.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Rjst.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/havEn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dxViI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45388" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12981" RevisionGUID="66f8c01c-5ea9-48b7-82b0-399af9ffa8c3" CreationDate="2020-02-29T07:32:29.680" UserId="1410" Text="What RAM can I use, to be compatible?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45389" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12981" RevisionGUID="66f8c01c-5ea9-48b7-82b0-399af9ffa8c3" CreationDate="2020-02-29T07:32:29.680" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12982" RevisionGUID="91a10690-03ff-4531-9f4e-2584266d48ff" CreationDate="2020-02-29T08:38:25.220" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="First of all: using the &quot;same&quot; memory (manufacturer, rated frequency and timings etc.) still does not 100% guarantee compatibility, especially if you are adding a DIMM with higher capacity. So when searching for DIMM to upgrade, I would not focus too much on names.  &#xD;&#xA;The DIMMs you have already are most likely single-rank. For upgrading memory, you basically have two options. Technically more if you don't care about performance and feel adventurous, but I'll stick to those 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Add another 8GB DIMM (preferably dual-rank) into one of the slots currently occupied by a 4GB DIMM, and place that one on the same memory channel as the other 4GB DIMM. Check your motherboard manual which DIMM slot belongs to which channel.&#xD;&#xA;This will ensure a balanced memory configuration, despite different DIMM sizes. I.e. same amount of memory (8GB) and same amount of ranks (2) on each channel.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Add to 4GB DIMMs (preferably single-rank) to the empty slots. This again results in the most balanced memory population possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you stick to those rules, you have a good chance of avoiding compatibility issues, despite using different DIMMs. As far as the rated specs are concerned: try to stay as close as possible to PC3-12800 CL11 as possible. The name of the brand that put its sticker on the DIMMs is of minor concern for compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as &quot;will this improve performance, or do I need to upgrade the CPU instead&quot; goes: This would require a lot more information about the kind of workload you have. But you can check it yourself, by monitoring CPU load and memory consumption. From the last image you posted, it does not look like memory capacity is a problem, only 5.5GB of 8GB are used. Be careful though, single- or lightly threaded tasks can be CPU-limited, despite not showing 100% utilization." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12982" RevisionGUID="9ce15723-0bfd-4d58-8f1a-d5079ff6674f" CreationDate="2020-02-29T08:43:34.700" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added clarification about which method is better" Text="First of all: using the &quot;same&quot; memory (manufacturer, rated frequency and timings etc.) still does not 100% guarantee compatibility, especially if you are adding a DIMM with higher capacity. So when searching for DIMMs to upgrade, I would not focus too much on names.  &#xD;&#xA;The DIMMs you have already are most likely single-rank. For upgrading memory, you basically have two options. Technically more if you don't care about performance and feel adventurous, but I'll stick to those 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Add another 8GB DIMM (preferably dual-rank) into one of the slots currently occupied by a 4GB DIMM, and place that one on the same memory channel as the other 4GB DIMM. Check your motherboard manual which DIMM slot belongs to which channel.&#xD;&#xA;This will ensure a balanced memory configuration, despite different DIMM sizes. I.e. same amount of memory (8GB) and same amount of ranks (2) on each channel.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Add to 4GB DIMMs (preferably single-rank) to the empty slots. This again results in the most balanced memory population possible. This would be my preferred option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you stick to those rules, you have a good chance of avoiding compatibility issues, despite using different DIMMs. As far as the rated specs are concerned: try to stay as close as possible to PC3-12800 CL11 as possible. The name of the brand that put its sticker on the DIMMs is of minor concern for compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as &quot;will this improve performance, or do I need to upgrade the CPU instead&quot; goes: This would require a lot more information about the kind of workload you have. But you can check it yourself, by monitoring CPU load and memory consumption. From the last image you posted, it does not look like memory capacity is a problem, only 5.5GB of 8GB are used. Be careful though, single- or lightly threaded tasks can be CPU-limited, despite not showing 100% utilization." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12982" RevisionGUID="698f99db-9518-4e25-98ba-538798827deb" CreationDate="2020-02-29T11:49:45.097" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="typo corrected" Text="First of all: using the &quot;same&quot; memory (manufacturer, rated frequency and timings etc.) still does not 100% guarantee compatibility, especially if you are adding a DIMM with higher capacity. So when searching for DIMMs to upgrade, I would not focus too much on names.  &#xD;&#xA;The DIMMs you have already are most likely single-rank. For upgrading memory, you basically have two options. Technically more if you don't care about performance and feel adventurous, but I'll stick to those 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Add another 8GB DIMM (preferably dual-rank) into one of the slots currently occupied by a 4GB DIMM, and place that one on the same memory channel as the other 4GB DIMM. Check your motherboard manual which DIMM slot belongs to which channel.&#xD;&#xA;This will ensure a balanced memory configuration, despite different DIMM sizes. I.e. same amount of memory (8GB) and same amount of ranks (2) on each channel.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Add two 4GB DIMMs (preferably single-rank) to the empty slots. This again results in the most balanced memory population possible. This would be my preferred option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you stick to those rules, you have a good chance of avoiding compatibility issues, despite using different DIMMs. As far as the rated specs are concerned: try to stay as close as possible to PC3-12800 CL11 as possible. The name of the brand that put its sticker on the DIMMs is of minor concern for compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as &quot;will this improve performance, or do I need to upgrade the CPU instead&quot; goes: This would require a lot more information about the kind of workload you have. But you can check it yourself, by monitoring CPU load and memory consumption. From the last image you posted, it does not look like memory capacity is a problem, only 5.5GB of 8GB are used. Be careful though, single- or lightly threaded tasks can be CPU-limited, despite not showing 100% utilization." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45395" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12983" RevisionGUID="f77c35c8-a239-4c07-8ab3-c2ff8c255606" CreationDate="2020-02-29T16:12:10.997" UserId="14451" Text="For my job I need to get used to plenty of new applications which partly make heavy usage of keyboard shortcuts. I´m not especially fast with computers and even after weeks I dont get really used to it. Some of the applications I must use dont even offer an alternative to the keyboard shortcuts like a clickable button or menu entry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there a lots of fancy RGB lit gaming keyboards. I think a keyboard with customizable key colors could help me out. When I was in store they only showed me keyboards which can be configured with a few presets. This is not what I need. I need the ability to customize the colors so that specific keys are lit depending on the application which is active at the moment. When I tab into another app the color should change.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know a keyboard or software which enables such functionality?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45396" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12983" RevisionGUID="f77c35c8-a239-4c07-8ab3-c2ff8c255606" CreationDate="2020-02-29T16:12:10.997" UserId="14451" Text="RGB LED lit keyboard with custom color depending on focused application" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45397" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12983" RevisionGUID="f77c35c8-a239-4c07-8ab3-c2ff8c255606" CreationDate="2020-02-29T16:12:10.997" UserId="14451" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45398" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="ff2ce253-c8ce-42db-9ff6-56e8cccaab23" CreationDate="2020-02-29T23:32:40.727" UserId="9908" Text="I strongy prefer to use the trackpoint instead of trackpad or mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only nitpick I find is that's positioned between GH. I'd prefer it to be between FG (as a left-handed). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any keyboards, from Lenovo on laptops or others, external keyboards, that place the trackpoint between FG or HJ? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45399" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="ff2ce253-c8ce-42db-9ff6-56e8cccaab23" CreationDate="2020-02-29T23:32:40.727" UserId="9908" Text="Ergonomic of Lenovo's trackpoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45400" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="ff2ce253-c8ce-42db-9ff6-56e8cccaab23" CreationDate="2020-02-29T23:32:40.727" UserId="9908" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45401" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12985" RevisionGUID="385fbd79-f1bc-4435-978f-c4cec821dc7c" CreationDate="2020-03-01T01:45:21.660" UserId="14061" Text="https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/series/home&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. choose a 5-bay disk station model, they make up to 12 bays.&#xD;&#xA; 2. don't know why you would want to do this, everything within a new NAS will provide everything needed to do RAID any which way you want.&#xD;&#xA; 3. default is 1gbps, but you can purchase a synology specific add-in card providing 10gbps using SFP+.&#xD;&#xA; 4. I don't know specifically about maintaining Acronis with Synology, but look through all the available `Packages` that synology offers **for free** with their DSM operating system.  If there's not a specific Acronis package I'm sure you could find a subsitute to accomplish your needs&#xD;&#xA; 5. not familiar with plex, but a quick google search of `synology plex` results in `how to set up plex on synology` which is promising.&#xD;&#xA; 6. retropie, don't know what that is sorry, check through the synology packages; the Synology DSM operating system is based on debian and is fundamentally linux so you can possibly do things under the hood and make stuff work.&#xD;&#xA; 7. based on above link, u can research into this.  I have a samsung series 9 tv at home, I use Synology NAS at work, I'm pretty sure when i last pondered it I believe a Synology NAS with wifi module should be able to stream movies to my tv: instead of my tv connecting to netflix or amazon, I connect to the synology in my house and browse available stored movies via some synology package.&#xD;&#xA; 8. There's an optional wifi module for these, and the diskstation carcass comes with couple usb ports for various external devices, I'd bet a dollar it can do bluetooth, check the specs on various models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;check out some [youtube] demo'ing synology capabilites, specifcally their &quot;Storage Manager&quot; part of the control panel within DSM which is where you can configure different RAID storage pools 9 ways from sunday.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;@  a reasonable price... kinda.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12986" RevisionGUID="f4198a1b-fc86-47e8-828f-a11507445be0" CreationDate="2020-03-01T06:53:35.243" UserId="14453" Text="I'm currently looking to upgrade my current Samsung Ultrabook I got in 2013 to a new MacBook Pro 16&quot; with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2.3GHz 8‑core 9th‑generation Intel Core i9 processor, Turbo Boost up to 4.8GHz&#xD;&#xA;16GB 2666MHz DDR4 memory&#xD;&#xA;AMD Radeon Pro 5500M with 4GB of GDDR6 memory&#xD;&#xA;1TB SSD storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'll be using this MacBook Pro to dive into my software development and machine learning/AI career, and just wondering if these specs will be sufficient? I'm extremely unlearned in computer hardware, so I am unsure what exactly each spec might help me with, but if anyone would care to explain, it would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wanting to keep the price tag lower than $4k." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12986" RevisionGUID="f4198a1b-fc86-47e8-828f-a11507445be0" CreationDate="2020-03-01T06:53:35.243" UserId="14453" Text="Hardware specifications for new laptop performing general software development and ML/DL experimentation?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12986" RevisionGUID="f4198a1b-fc86-47e8-828f-a11507445be0" CreationDate="2020-03-01T06:53:35.243" UserId="14453" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45405" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="bc1ec897-475f-4f41-b3a2-d18cb2e1fb29" CreationDate="2020-03-01T07:20:18.290" UserId="9333" Text="I've been looking for a good mouse device for my son around but it's not so easy to find a PC/laptop mouse which is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ergonomic and leightweighted&#xD;&#xA;- small for a 12 yrs person (okay the hand will start growing)&#xD;&#xA;- cableless&#xD;&#xA;- design for a left-handed person&#xD;&#xA;- robust&#xD;&#xA;- long battery life&#xD;&#xA;- not necessarily special gaming features but of course a nice to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can be of some alternative ergonomic design if it feels well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45406" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="bc1ec897-475f-4f41-b3a2-d18cb2e1fb29" CreationDate="2020-03-01T07:20:18.290" UserId="9333" Text="Ergonomic PC mouse for left handed child?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45407" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="bc1ec897-475f-4f41-b3a2-d18cb2e1fb29" CreationDate="2020-03-01T07:20:18.290" UserId="9333" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45408" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12988" RevisionGUID="dcffd92e-3a97-4ca8-b3a4-a8bd18363649" CreationDate="2020-03-01T11:18:45.513" UserId="24" Text="You don't really need an upgrade in anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common mistake of beginners, that they think, having a bigger/larger/stronger computer is a requirement for doing things uncommon for ordinary computer users. It is not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I type this answer for you on a 2006 macbook running a 32-bit Linux. Although for development, I use mostly servers (these are *strong*) and laptops (these are roughly like yours).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not that is important, how strong is your computer, what is important, what do you develop on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, you have a strong laptop. It can't be really upgraded, because&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Laptops are not really modular (far lesser of its parts are changeable)&#xD;&#xA;* it is already close to the top. You will need to invest a lot to get only a little improvement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can formalize your specification so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You have the laptop specified in your question&#xD;&#xA;2. You have \$4k&#xD;&#xA;3. This is what you convert to the possible strongest laptop (for AI development).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the answer is this: buy the costliest laptop from $4k and you will end up with two laptops. But you don't need this second laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today, AI development means most likely by using the video card as a massively parallel CPU, thus this $4k laptop would likely need a strong GPU, if you would really need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Learn languages (python, C++, what you have).&#xD;&#xA;* Please, please, please try in your life once an OS what is not windows. It does not matter, what. The important thing is to understand, what an OS is doing, and that it is not only a GUI.&#xD;&#xA;* If you have some academic connection, learn Latex.&#xD;&#xA;* Refresh your Math and algorithm theory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need these. Use a part of the $4k to buy AI books in the university book store (or rent them from the internet)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45409" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12988" RevisionGUID="f800920a-a0fd-460e-8388-c2308eb56533" CreationDate="2020-03-01T11:44:55.733" UserId="24" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="You don't really need an upgrade in anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The common mistake of beginners, that they think, having a bigger/larger/stronger computer is a requirement for doing things uncommon for ordinary computer users. It is not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I type this answer for you on a 2006 macbook running a 32-bit Linux. Although for development, I use mostly servers (these are *strong*) and laptops (these are roughly like yours).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not that is important, how strong is your computer, what is important, what do you develop on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, you have a strong laptop. It can't be really upgraded, because&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Laptops are not really modular (far lesser of its parts are changeable)&#xD;&#xA;* it is already close to the top. You will need to invest a lot to get only a little improvement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We can formalize your specification so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You have the laptop specified in your question&#xD;&#xA;2. You have \$4k&#xD;&#xA;3. This is what you convert to the possible strongest laptop (for AI development).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then the answer is this: buy the costliest laptop from $4k and you will end up with two laptops. But you don't need this second laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Today, AI development means most likely by using the video card as a massively parallel CPU, thus this $4k laptop would likely need a strong GPU, if you would really need it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Learn languages (python, C++, what you have).&#xD;&#xA;* Please, please, please try in your life once an OS what is not windows. It does not matter, what. The important thing is to understand, what an OS is doing, and that it is not only a GUI.&#xD;&#xA;* If you have some academic connection, learn Latex.&#xD;&#xA;* Refresh your Math and algorithm theory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You need these. Use a part of the $4k to buy AI books in the university book store (or rent them from the internet). Most internet sources are still nowhere to the quality of the paper books in an university book store (library). The current world works so, that you can learn a lot from the Internet - the difference between a graduate and an internet programmer is what can't be." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12989" RevisionGUID="75bd05ee-16d4-45ed-8d7c-ad078a59915b" CreationDate="2020-03-01T14:17:33.383" UserId="5979" Text="Right now I am using a small Sophos XG firewall to do SSl inspection and blocking of web categories. Unfortunately, in my opinion, web categories are not very well maintained and updated by sophos. Is there another product that keeps its categories more up-to-date?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12989" RevisionGUID="75bd05ee-16d4-45ed-8d7c-ad078a59915b" CreationDate="2020-03-01T14:17:33.383" UserId="5979" Text="A hardware firewall having very well maintained and updated web category filters?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45412" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12989" RevisionGUID="75bd05ee-16d4-45ed-8d7c-ad078a59915b" CreationDate="2020-03-01T14:17:33.383" UserId="5979" Text="&lt;firewall&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45426" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="b962bd8f-de4a-439d-8e9e-0e073416576b" CreationDate="2020-03-02T06:34:45.867" UserId="9333" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for a good mouse device for my son around but it's not so easy to find a PC/laptop mouse which is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ergonomic and leightweighted&#xD;&#xA;- small for a 12 yrs person (okay the hand will start growing)&#xD;&#xA;- cableless&#xD;&#xA;- design for a left-handed person&#xD;&#xA;- robust&#xD;&#xA;- long battery life&#xD;&#xA;- not necessarily special gaming features but of course a nice to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can be of some alternative ergonomic design if it feels well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: up to $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45428" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12995" RevisionGUID="30c1223b-2492-4a0d-998f-42b80d1bd35e" CreationDate="2020-03-02T07:52:59.123" UserId="13368" Text="Looks like Delock has made one explicitly called [USB-C to bidirectional DP Alt mode Cable!][1]&#xD;&#xA;Everyone, hooray for [Delock!][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45429" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="e7b5ceba-3c39-4765-bdb9-218b2a899402" CreationDate="2020-03-02T07:55:08.700" UserId="13368" Comment="I got the answer, WOOHOO!" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** [Delock has made it!][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Old:** My fault for asking, USB-C Alt DP is made for sportive/embedded devices like phones and macs, not necessary for PC's, GPU's and Game Consoles (use HDMI/DP to Alt DP USB-C) and useless on displays. However USB-C on those is very useful as it replaces USB-A. Charging trough it only wastes a monitor port, something like AC DC is still economical more efficient. Good that we solved this before 2020!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45430" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="e7b5ceba-3c39-4765-bdb9-218b2a899402" CreationDate="2020-03-02T07:55:08.700" UserId="13368" Comment="I got the answer, WOOHOO!" Text="{Solved by Delock} HDMI/DP PC to USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45431" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12989" RevisionGUID="2fadcd88-b082-4ae1-9390-6dc11eb7647e" CreationDate="2020-03-02T08:52:14.710" UserId="5979" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="Right now I am using a small Sophos XG firewall to do SSL inspection and blocking of web categories. Unfortunately, in my opinion, web categories are not very well maintained and updated by sophos. Is there another product that keeps its categories more up-to-date?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Performance and bandwidth of the hardware are not important, lowest performance is good enough (right now it's the smallest Sophos XG85). Budget should definitely be under 1000 USD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45432" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12989" RevisionGUID="02a055a7-b202-459b-af11-6feb9a318c42" CreationDate="2020-03-02T09:06:28.267" UserId="5979" Comment="edited title" Text="Looking for hardware firewall having very well maintained and updated web category filters?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="2b8d3d1f-6b77-403e-9b36-bacc5da477df" CreationDate="2020-03-02T10:24:08.210" UserId="13368" Comment="Changed it" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** [Delock has made it!][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have good HDMI male to DP female adapters with an extra usb for power on the HDMI side, not at 4k@60hz  like on the first cable, but still.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45434" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="6fad22cb-5b92-420f-bd33-9e7ed17ae92c" CreationDate="2020-03-02T15:29:52.327" UserId="8" Comment="this is not a thing we do here" Text="HDMI/DP PC to USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45436" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="27a5c9cb-4563-4823-880b-51492e1ca020" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:01:24.477" UserId="14463" Text="I will start looking for a flatbed scanner in the US because I have an ongoing need to scan many large rigid items and compare colors between scans. This is my criteria for a new scanner I want to buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Consistent color, brightness, contrast etc. between scans. (I will elaborate below, see 'Consistency')**&#xD;&#xA; - Scan rigid non-flexible items (i.e., a glass flat bed, not a feed through solution)&#xD;&#xA; - 6 x 12 inch media (e.g., a legal size flat bed scanner will do).&#xD;&#xA; - Rapid Scanning (a strong plus). The ability to rapidly scan 100 to 200 thick rigid items in a relatively short amount of time is not necessary but a strong plus. Note: the media is extremely rigid and could be up to around 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-Cropping? I don't know if this feature even exists, but I need to crop each photo to remove the background of these perfectly-rectangle items.  Perhaps this is better approached through a software solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Consistency:**&#xD;&#xA;This is for an ongoing series of art projects. I need to do color comparisons of the scanned items. I'm afraid that the software with the scanner that I will buy will adjust the color, contrast, brightness, etc with each scan and thus I won't have the ability to do comparisons of the various colors in each scanned item. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45437" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="27a5c9cb-4563-4823-880b-51492e1ca020" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:01:24.477" UserId="14463" Text="Scanner Consistent Color between Scans for Art Projects" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45438" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="27a5c9cb-4563-4823-880b-51492e1ca020" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:01:24.477" UserId="14463" Text="&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45442" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="a5a6a949-e179-4551-a9c4-f5fbe351ed41" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:32:52.973" UserId="14463" Comment="Simpler Title" Text="Scanner with Consistent Color" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45443" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12998" RevisionGUID="76d2b666-ad5a-4ecf-963e-9b0072f77d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:54:36.937" UserId="6356" Text="I'm planning to create a small homelab with ESXi 6.7U3:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- CPU: I3 9100&#xD;&#xA;- Motherboard: Gigabyte B360N&#xD;&#xA;- RAM: 16GB DDR4&#xD;&#xA;- VM storage: 2 SATA SSD&#xD;&#xA;- Boot ESXi from 16 GB USB key&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any ESXi 6.7 compatible RAID controller under 100$ to put the 2 SATA SSDs in RAID1? I've just checked the VMWare compatibility page, but all the options listed seem to be a lot more expensive than my small budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please forgive my english and thanks in advance for your help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45444" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12998" RevisionGUID="76d2b666-ad5a-4ecf-963e-9b0072f77d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:54:36.937" UserId="6356" Text="Cheap RAID controller for ESXi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45445" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12998" RevisionGUID="76d2b666-ad5a-4ecf-963e-9b0072f77d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:54:36.937" UserId="6356" Text="&lt;raid-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="e4fb211b-729b-4a59-8118-8e110123b651" CreationDate="2020-03-02T17:40:44.777" UserId="10459" Text="My existing printer is an HP Color LaserJet 2550L. It has been working great for a long time, but now it decided to [not print at all anymore](https://askubuntu.com/questions/1214166/all-of-a-sudden-my-hp-laserjet-2550l-decided-to-stop-printing-any-idea-what-c). I'm not too sure why that would be but I have been having more and more problems with it and it can't print large images (probably because it's limited to 64Mb of RAM, which in 2004 seemed like quite a bit already).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm on the market for a new printer and am looking for recommendations. Here are the specifications I'm interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Works great on Ubuntu 18.04+&#xD;&#xA;* Color Laser (no inkjet, please)&#xD;&#xA;* Multifunction - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Duplex Scan and Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Two Sided Printing&#xD;&#xA;* Automatic Scan&#xD;&#xA;* Separate Ink Toners&#xD;&#xA;* Standard Paper Size (B2/A4)&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Paper Feeder (at least 100 pages)&#xD;&#xA;* Output bin should support at least 20 pages&#xD;&#xA;* Connect with Ethernet and/or USB (no WiFi/Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;* Budget around $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I mean by &quot;automatic scan&quot; is a way to be able to scan an entire stack at once (for example, place all the pages of a contract in the machine and push one button).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Copy feature should work on its own (no computer involved); like any photocopier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fax is really not that important." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45447" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="e4fb211b-729b-4a59-8118-8e110123b651" CreationDate="2020-03-02T17:40:44.777" UserId="10459" Text="I'm looking at getting a new Laser Color Printer that works under Ubuntu 18.04+ so would appreciate Recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45448" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="e4fb211b-729b-4a59-8118-8e110123b651" CreationDate="2020-03-02T17:40:44.777" UserId="10459" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45449" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="9a86dc02-e918-4b45-83b9-dbd441acbdf1" CreationDate="2020-03-02T18:10:09.883" UserId="14463" Comment="added budget" Text="I will start looking for a flatbed scanner in the US because I have an ongoing need to scan many large rigid items and compare colors between scans. This is my criteria for a new scanner I want to buy:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Consistent color, brightness, contrast etc. between scans. (I will elaborate below, see 'Consistency')**&#xD;&#xA; - Scan rigid non-flexible items (i.e., a glass flat bed, not a feed through solution)&#xD;&#xA; - 6 x 12 inch media (e.g., a legal size flat bed scanner will do).&#xD;&#xA; - Rapid Scanning (a strong plus). The ability to rapidly scan 100 to 200 thick rigid items in a relatively short amount of time is not necessary but a strong plus. Note: the media is extremely rigid and could be up to around 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-Cropping? I don't know if this feature even exists, but I need to crop each photo to remove the background of these perfectly-rectangle items.  Perhaps this is better approached through a software solution. &#xD;&#xA; - Budget: Under $250 or maybe higher for something I really like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Consistency:**&#xD;&#xA;This is for an ongoing series of art projects. I need to do color comparisons of the scanned items. I'm afraid that the software with the scanner that I will buy will adjust the color, contrast, brightness, etc with each scan and thus I won't have the ability to do comparisons of the various colors in each scanned item. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45452" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13000" RevisionGUID="ced3a745-a043-41ad-af3d-60d99c74c5b4" CreationDate="2020-03-03T09:49:15.767" UserId="14465" Text="Is there any power bank with two USB type C ports?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about type A or micro USBs ports.&#xD;&#xA;Preferably 20000 mAh, but 10000 will also be fine." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45453" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13000" RevisionGUID="ced3a745-a043-41ad-af3d-60d99c74c5b4" CreationDate="2020-03-03T09:49:15.767" UserId="14465" Text="Power bank with two USB Type C ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45454" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13000" RevisionGUID="ced3a745-a043-41ad-af3d-60d99c74c5b4" CreationDate="2020-03-03T09:49:15.767" UserId="14465" Text="&lt;power-bank&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="d4380fe7-28c3-496f-8da4-c3edce10835c" CreationDate="2020-03-03T11:21:32.043" UserId="14466" Text="I'd like to find a solution for my grandpa who's severly hearing impaired to help him participating in the daily life. More specifically, I thought about an on-the-fly speech to text recognition with a very simple, large user interface on a tablet. Small enough to carry it around without bothering, but larger then a casual large mobilephone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought about a tablet with a good microphone in combination with &#xD;&#xA;Google Docs and Googles Speech to Text API because I was impressed how Google translate works nicely for on-the-fly translation which is built on the mentioned API. However I don't want to buy a random tablet just because of it's screen but not able to catch multiple people in a room clearly because of a bad mic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys have any recommendations on the choice of hardware or software for that purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="d4380fe7-28c3-496f-8da4-c3edce10835c" CreationDate="2020-03-03T11:21:32.043" UserId="14466" Text="Dictiation tablet for hearing impaired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="d4380fe7-28c3-496f-8da4-c3edce10835c" CreationDate="2020-03-03T11:21:32.043" UserId="14466" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45458" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7ac0bea3-b269-42e2-81ab-c3f5a0469c86" CreationDate="2020-03-03T11:40:14.020" UserId="14466" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'd like to find a solution for my grandpa who's severly hearing impaired to help him participating in the daily life. More specifically, I thought about an on-the-fly speech to text recognition with a very simple, large user interface on a tablet. Small enough to carry it around without bothering, but larger then a casual large mobilephone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought about a tablet with a good microphone in combination with &#xD;&#xA;[Google Live Transcribe][1] because I was impressed how Google translate works nicely for on-the-fly translation which is built on the mentioned API. However I don't want to buy a random tablet just because of it's screen but not able to catch multiple people in a room clearly because of a bad mic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys have any recommendations on the choice of hardware or software for that purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ai.googleblog.com/2019/02/real-time-continuous-transcription-with.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45459" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7ac0bea3-b269-42e2-81ab-c3f5a0469c86" CreationDate="2020-03-03T11:40:14.020" UserId="14466" Comment="deleted 20 characters in body; edited title" Text="Dictiation tablet with Google Live Transcribe for hearing impaired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="89422c9b-f1d1-4046-9d9a-9216726d391d" CreationDate="2020-03-03T17:02:35.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11877" RevisionGUID="15e14abe-ea73-49a8-aec1-ecfc979be60d" CreationDate="2020-03-04T15:08:24.103" UserId="13368" Comment="Added product details" Text="This is 2019.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way around doesn't count.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** [Delock has made it!][1] It should be at least compatible with all USB-C Alt mode compatible displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have good HDMI male to DP female adapters with an extra usb for power on the HDMI side, not at 4k@60hz  like on the first cable, but still.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13004" RevisionGUID="5ada452a-2850-44b0-b7cd-79b9cf8c1aca" CreationDate="2020-03-04T20:39:14.103" UserId="14282" Text="New angle: What if you kept your current headphones that you enjoy, and add a mic?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Antlion is well known in the &quot;gaming community&quot; for producing detachable &quot;ModMics&quot; for users that don't want to sacrifice sound quality at the expense of adding a mic. They can be purchased [directly from Antlion][1], on [Amazon][2], or in some electronic retail stores such as [Micro Center][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is to purchase a USB desktop mic that just sits on your desk, such as the [Blue Yeti Nano][4]. Although I'm sure you would prefer the mobility of the ModMic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://antlionaudio.com/collections/microphones/products/modmic-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/32OXJha&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.microcenter.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/3aw5Jqa" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45467" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13005" RevisionGUID="1b9289d4-00c3-4df0-bbcd-f0a6d4f1bd6f" CreationDate="2020-03-04T21:35:16.947" UserId="14282" Text="Here are a few options for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Jelly Comb USB Keypad][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [Adafruit 3x4 Phone-style Matrix Keypad][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [DEVMO 2PCS 4 x 4 Matrix Array][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [Adafruit Membrane 3x4 Matrix Keypad + Extras [ADA419]][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [Official Raspberry Pi 7&quot; Touch Screen Display][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/32OKlK5&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/3asnmH5&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://amzn.to/2TmufnC&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/2xbkY9w&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://amzn.to/2wpwptL" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45468" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="f8a52f32-5a2a-444c-8237-6a67df3b7287" CreationDate="2020-03-04T21:45:57.710" UserId="10459" Comment="Fixed the B2 reference to US Letter" Text="My existing printer is an HP Color LaserJet 2550L. It has been working great for a long time, but now it decided to [not print at all anymore](https://askubuntu.com/questions/1214166/all-of-a-sudden-my-hp-laserjet-2550l-decided-to-stop-printing-any-idea-what-c). I'm not too sure why that would be but I have been having more and more problems with it and it can't print large images (probably because it's limited to 64Mb of RAM, which in 2004 seemed like quite a bit already).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm on the market for a new printer and am looking for recommendations. Here are the specifications I'm interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Works great on Ubuntu 18.04+&#xD;&#xA;* Color Laser (no inkjet, please)&#xD;&#xA;* Multifunction - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Duplex Scan and Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Two Sided Printing&#xD;&#xA;* Automatic Scan&#xD;&#xA;* Separate Ink Toners&#xD;&#xA;* Standard Paper Size (US Letter/A4)&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Paper Feeder (at least 100 pages)&#xD;&#xA;* Output bin should support at least 20 pages&#xD;&#xA;* Connect with Ethernet and/or USB (no WiFi/Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;* Budget around $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I mean by &quot;automatic scan&quot; is a way to be able to scan an entire stack at once (for example, place all the pages of a contract in the machine and push one button).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Copy feature should work on its own (no computer involved); like any photocopier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fax is really not that important." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45473" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="08eb5b20-7c9f-4969-aa42-fc483087a89f" CreationDate="2020-03-05T12:59:20.803" UserId="14167" Text="In general I am going to purchase a new laptop for some development purposes. My currently laptop lags so freaking so much as once opening an AVD (Android Emulator) it freezes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirement is currently android and AI development but later on i would probably do game development too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering this [Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T 2019][1]. As from specs I see these important features that actually impressed me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 12 hour battery life&#xD;&#xA; 2. 10th gen core i7 processor 1.3GHz (upto 3.9GHz Turbo)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 16 GB of DDR4X ram, 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; 4. 989 grams of weight&#xD;&#xA; 5. Touch IPS display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The only downside I saw about this is that it does not comes with a dedicated Graphic card. It comes with *Intel Iris Plus Graphics*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So will this laptop work for my case, won't it? I think not having dedicated graphic card might actually create lag. But I am not entirely sure if it will or not? So question is will it run smoothly?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, what are the other laptops available with a dedicated graphic card, competiting this laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Acer-SF514-54T-i7-1065G7-processor-Integrated/dp/B082FHZW6V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45474" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="08eb5b20-7c9f-4969-aa42-fc483087a89f" CreationDate="2020-03-05T12:59:20.803" UserId="14167" Text="Does Acer Swift 5 fits for Android development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45475" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="08eb5b20-7c9f-4969-aa42-fc483087a89f" CreationDate="2020-03-05T12:59:20.803" UserId="14167" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;game-development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13008" RevisionGUID="78de12d4-81bc-4b06-8f14-4d5b44cb4029" CreationDate="2020-03-05T13:59:53.070" UserId="13696" Text="Plantronics UC Voyager&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plantronics BT600&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Either one would suit your needs. Our entire customer service department uses these headsets for their calls." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13009" RevisionGUID="18c28287-7c38-4fd8-90bc-0a9d1e441cf9" CreationDate="2020-03-05T15:49:55.577" UserId="13652" Text="I've been reading a lot of recommendations and how-to guides on using Mirrorless/DSLR/Camcorders as a video source with some HDMI capture card, but none seem to indicate (what should be obvious) that the camera controls, including power on/off is still manual on the camera itself, which lead me to wonder if there is any protocol / api for remote control of high end cameras (like what we see in GoPro for example)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and thus the question is two parts:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- is there such a standard protocol?&#xD;&#xA;- what high end cameras out there allow for remote control (including power on / off)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;knowing the answer to the first question, would at least assist in doing better search for devices that support it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45478" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13009" RevisionGUID="18c28287-7c38-4fd8-90bc-0a9d1e441cf9" CreationDate="2020-03-05T15:49:55.577" UserId="13652" Text="Mirrorless Camera / Camcorder fully controlled from PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45479" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13009" RevisionGUID="18c28287-7c38-4fd8-90bc-0a9d1e441cf9" CreationDate="2020-03-05T15:49:55.577" UserId="13652" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45481" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11598" RevisionGUID="65fdfc1d-7d15-49b9-8e02-41bc490aaa50" CreationDate="2020-03-05T16:01:25.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45482" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="6aa4656b-f389-4108-a944-eeaf7b82498e" CreationDate="2020-03-05T17:03:30.513" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45483" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="7480" RevisionGUID="4f6b730b-62cd-434b-835e-6fc5d4fef3cb" CreationDate="2020-03-05T17:04:37.353" UserId="253" Comment="Updated : TAGS : Added &quot;bluetooth-5 &quot;tag and created &quot;bluetooth-adapter&quot; tag" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;&lt;bluetooth-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45484" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="7480" RevisionGUID="4f6b730b-62cd-434b-835e-6fc5d4fef3cb" CreationDate="2020-03-05T17:04:37.353" Comment="Proposed by 253 approved by 6310 edit id of 1023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13011" RevisionGUID="6cb2186e-9dd3-480d-af52-d28e67c46a9f" CreationDate="2020-03-05T17:06:21.010" UserId="14280" Text="Assuming you are using Android Studio, yes, the laptop will work well for it. My only concern would be that the laptop may run hot or even overheat because I don't see any large cooling fans on the CPU/GPU, but other than that concern, it would work well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets all of the requirements for Android Studio:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;OS: Microsoft Windows 7 or higher&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4GB&#xD;&#xA;Disk: 2GB of available disk space&#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1280 x 800p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommended: &#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB&#xD;&#xA;Disk: 8GB or more&#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1920 x 1080p&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your laptop:&#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;RAM: 16GB&#xD;&#xA;Disk: 500GB&#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1920 * 1080p (Full HD/FHD)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45486" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11607" RevisionGUID="f022a629-cd0a-420e-b84f-ccd0a1451ee9" CreationDate="2020-03-05T18:02:25.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="78fd0419-f0c5-4b42-a2bb-88f06269fa91" CreationDate="2020-03-05T21:09:09.793" UserId="14477" Text="I'm looking for a tiny, cheap, monochromatic laser projector that just outputs texts from a terminal. That's it. No more. No less." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45490" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="78fd0419-f0c5-4b42-a2bb-88f06269fa91" CreationDate="2020-03-05T21:09:09.793" UserId="14477" Text="Simple laser projector for terminal screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45491" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="78fd0419-f0c5-4b42-a2bb-88f06269fa91" CreationDate="2020-03-05T21:09:09.793" UserId="14477" Text="&lt;projector&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="cdad7cc9-a582-4877-8f63-368b24c412e4" CreationDate="2020-03-06T04:43:33.497" UserId="14167" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="In general I am going to purchase a new laptop for some development purposes. My currently laptop lags so freaking much as once opening an AVD (Android Emulator) it freezes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirement is currently android and AI development but later on i would probably do game development too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering this [Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T 2019][1]. As from specs I see these important features that actually impressed me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 12 hour battery life&#xD;&#xA; 2. 10th gen core i7 processor 1.3GHz (upto 3.9GHz Turbo)&#xD;&#xA; 3. 16 GB of DDR4X ram, 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; 4. 989 grams of weight&#xD;&#xA; 5. Touch IPS display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The only downside I saw about this is that it does not comes with a dedicated Graphic card. It comes with *Intel Iris Plus Graphics*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So will this laptop work for my case, won't it? I think not having dedicated graphic card might actually create lag. But I am not entirely sure if it will or not? So question is will it run smoothly?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, what are the other laptops available with a dedicated graphic card, competiting this laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Acer-SF514-54T-i7-1065G7-processor-Integrated/dp/B082FHZW6V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45497" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="4d4f74d3-19ed-4571-9e35-35f7f158916f" CreationDate="2020-03-06T09:47:21.803" UserId="14471" Text="I have a USB dongle for the internet. I want to use the internet in LAN RJ45 mode for my application. So my question is instead of buying a costly router (~1500 Rs)for the conversion, Can I buy some converter or any technique for the same." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45498" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="4d4f74d3-19ed-4571-9e35-35f7f158916f" CreationDate="2020-03-06T09:47:21.803" UserId="14471" Text="Is there any connector by which I can use my usb dongle internet to Ethernet rj45 male" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45499" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="4d4f74d3-19ed-4571-9e35-35f7f158916f" CreationDate="2020-03-06T09:47:21.803" UserId="14471" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45507" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13018" RevisionGUID="a781c852-1655-4782-9fee-1864b09a8c5c" CreationDate="2020-03-07T04:57:42.683" UserId="1162" Text="I am looking for an alarm system that does not require wiring between its different modules, but at the same time I do not want it to be on the internet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45508" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13018" RevisionGUID="a781c852-1655-4782-9fee-1864b09a8c5c" CreationDate="2020-03-07T04:57:42.683" UserId="1162" Text="Wireless home alarm system that does not need internet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45509" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13018" RevisionGUID="a781c852-1655-4782-9fee-1864b09a8c5c" CreationDate="2020-03-07T04:57:42.683" UserId="1162" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13019" RevisionGUID="cffd60d0-1bcd-46a6-b363-9ded70e3da04" CreationDate="2020-03-07T17:47:13.257" UserId="14465" Text="I'm looking for tiny drone for taking some pictures/video while traveling.&#xD;&#xA;At least image quality should be pretty decent. 720 for video would be fine. &#xD;&#xA;Flying time of couple of minutes will be fine. No preferences for altitude/distance. And it should be allowed to be taken on the plane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Not sure what else to include here as don't really use drones)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13019" RevisionGUID="cffd60d0-1bcd-46a6-b363-9ded70e3da04" CreationDate="2020-03-07T17:47:13.257" UserId="14465" Text="Small drone recomendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13019" RevisionGUID="cffd60d0-1bcd-46a6-b363-9ded70e3da04" CreationDate="2020-03-07T17:47:13.257" UserId="14465" Text="&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13021" RevisionGUID="f9230fb6-6c42-46e2-9097-055e18ed32b2" CreationDate="2020-03-08T12:38:18.307" UserId="14483" Text="After a quick search, I found these ones:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM 18W POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM 45W POWER BANK ROVER 20.000][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000 (LIGHTNING)][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM POWER BANK ROVER 20.000 (LIGHTNING)][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [AIDEAZ Wireless Power Bank 20000mAh Portable Charger][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other ones which have one USB-C as output and another one as input (in order to charge the PowerBank), I am not sure if that suits you: [mophie powerstation USB-C 3XL Battery][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-18w-power-bank-apollo-15-000/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-45w-power-bank-rover-20-000/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-apollo-15-000-lightning-/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-rover-20-000-lightning-/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/AIDEAZ-Wireless-20000mAh-Ultra-Compact-Compatible/dp/B07DWLWLC9&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/HM8X2ZM/A/mophie-powerstation-usb-c-3xl-battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45519" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="2a57e817-61f1-4254-9786-b55afdd7234b" CreationDate="2020-03-08T14:03:30.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45521" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13022" RevisionGUID="7b1a93f0-3168-4ae3-8af3-39bff9f702ff" CreationDate="2020-03-08T22:41:52.663" UserId="14199" Text="The title really says it all. What I want is a maximally simple NAS that can take up to 4 3.5&quot; drives. Literally all it will need to do is serve files over a 1Gbit SMB share. I don't need any other capabilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since it will be close to my bed, I also want it to be **SILENT**. That means absolutely no fans whatsoever. The drives will be standard HDDs (not SSDs), so they should spin down when not in use. In addition, they should be fastened with soft materials so that the NAS case doesn't resonate and amplify their noise. In my desktop PC I've used the old trick of suspending the 3.5&quot; HDDs with some sewing rubber bands in a 5&quot; bay. That makes them practically inaudiable. I don't expect such amateur nonsense to be available in a commercial product, but you can at least put little rubber spacers between the drive and the case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45522" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13022" RevisionGUID="7b1a93f0-3168-4ae3-8af3-39bff9f702ff" CreationDate="2020-03-08T22:41:52.663" UserId="14199" Text="A silent, fanless barebones NAS with 4x 3.5&quot; sata bays" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45523" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13022" RevisionGUID="7b1a93f0-3168-4ae3-8af3-39bff9f702ff" CreationDate="2020-03-08T22:41:52.663" UserId="14199" Text="&lt;nas&gt;&lt;silent&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45524" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="62ef1f4f-7be3-4789-a06d-4bc200e25744" CreationDate="2020-03-09T03:03:00.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45525" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13018" RevisionGUID="5da367ca-a549-4548-93db-4a8343c847bd" CreationDate="2020-03-09T03:24:21.993" UserId="1162" Comment="added 349 characters in body; added 9 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an alarm system that does not require wiring between its different modules, but at the same time I do not want it to be on the internet.&#xA;&#xA;The only two modules I'm looking for are door/window open and motion detector.&#xA;&#xA;The system can use a Wi-Fi network that is not connected to the internet.&#xA;&#xA;When triggered, the system should emit an audible siren. The idea is that the alarm would be in use only when people are inside, and if it triggers, the dwellers can call emergency services themselves." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="87d58619-a9d0-453a-8cee-3d0811c30142" CreationDate="2020-03-09T06:27:24.623" UserId="14477" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a tiny, cheap, monochromatic laser projector that just outputs texts from a terminal. That's it. The output can be low resolution pixels or laser traced." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13024" RevisionGUID="f0159886-ba12-4b2a-9acc-5d93d4d952a8" CreationDate="2020-03-09T13:54:28.873" UserId="14282" Text="The [Razer Cynosa Keyboard][1] is a membrane, wired &quot;gaming&quot; keyboard. It has individually programmable backlit keys. Using the accompanying Razer Synapse 3 software, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; you can rebind buttons, assign macros, and personalize device lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sale** on Amazon for **$44.00 USD**: [Buy Razer Cynosa][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/38zFrBN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45531" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="dc65e407-0df3-4181-b741-3e2025763f2a" CreationDate="2020-03-09T14:02:05.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13026" RevisionGUID="050e4b43-e092-4d69-b891-706b5327b85a" CreationDate="2020-03-09T20:02:11.090" UserId="14061" Text="finding something manufactured with no fans I don't think you will find because I doubt any manufacturer would be cavalier enough to do so... risking overheat, failure, warranty, and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A synology NAS can come with any number of bays up to 12 or 16, look at one of their 5 bay models if they specifically do not offer a 4 bay model.  Their DSM software has a power control panel letting you choose silent mode (vs normal vs performance) which will make for a quiet unit.  I have them on my desk at work, and I cannot hear it on silent mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other way that comes to mind is build your own pc, choosing a case to your liking, allowing for N 3.5 hard drives, and not installing case fans.  And then you would need to look into a cpu cooler that is quiet.  Home Theatre type pc's  (**HTPC**) come to mind, where their basic purpose is just to be quiet and which basically functions like a NAS.  And if building your own PC or HTPC choose a fanless Power Supply Unit (PSU)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13027" RevisionGUID="69f4a7ac-43e7-4a28-bbf3-ab536479db22" CreationDate="2020-03-09T21:49:35.877" UserId="7260" Text="I have been looking for this like crazy but all items I find are not guaranteeing support for the 2018 iPad Pro size 12.9in.   &#xA;I am looking for two things: a regular stand (I will use the iPad as a music reader so you know what I’m looking for) and a desk arm mount capable of holding this size and weight.  &#xA;For the regular stand K&amp;M produces some, but I’m not a fan of the quality of their screws so I’m open to suggestions.  &#xA;For the arm mount I saw beautiful laptop and/or monitor mounts but, of course, they have VESA so: is there a good ordinary tablet arm mount capable of this or, alternatively, is there a kind of cover with a VESA adapter for the iPad so that I could use an ordinary monitor arm?&#xA;&#xA;Thank you" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45537" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13027" RevisionGUID="69f4a7ac-43e7-4a28-bbf3-ab536479db22" CreationDate="2020-03-09T21:49:35.877" UserId="7260" Text="What are good mounts (tripods, desk arm) capable of holding 2018 12.9inch iPad Pro?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45538" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13027" RevisionGUID="69f4a7ac-43e7-4a28-bbf3-ab536479db22" CreationDate="2020-03-09T21:49:35.877" UserId="7260" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13029" RevisionGUID="7b92a8d7-4b62-4ca5-aeef-fdd25780f171" CreationDate="2020-03-10T16:09:59.853" UserId="14280" Text="There are new MX switches out that are called MX Silent Reds. It's the combination of the typical Red switch, but silent at bottoming out, which is where the MX Red gets it's sound. In theory these are good, but are going to be hard to find for awhile. Here's this one from Corsair that I like, except for the price and the fact that it isn't tenkeyless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Corsial K70 RGB MX Silent Red][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-MK-2-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B07D5S3LZW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cherry%2Bmx%2Bsilent%2Bred&amp;qid=1583856387&amp;sr=8-5&amp;th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13030" RevisionGUID="e91b1e32-d111-4ffd-a411-2bc1834812b0" CreationDate="2020-03-10T17:41:38.713" UserId="14492" Text="My laptop is GS63VR 7RG Stealth Pro: https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS63VR-7RG-Stealth-Pro/Specification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since provided AC adapter is too heavy, I'd like to buy a smaller compatible charger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specification table says its battery is '3-cell, 51Wh'.&#xD;&#xA;This makes me think charger with 51W output is enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the output of provided AC adapter is 180W.&#xD;&#xA;Do I actually need such high power charger?&#xD;&#xA;Or, is it safe to use lighter one because the battery requires 51W only?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45542" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13030" RevisionGUID="e91b1e32-d111-4ffd-a411-2bc1834812b0" CreationDate="2020-03-10T17:41:38.713" UserId="14492" Text="Charger for MSI gaming laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45543" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13030" RevisionGUID="e91b1e32-d111-4ffd-a411-2bc1834812b0" CreationDate="2020-03-10T17:41:38.713" UserId="14492" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13032" RevisionGUID="93880f28-6c7b-4128-89a0-aaf1bc695b67" CreationDate="2020-03-10T19:52:08.800" UserId="14493" Text="I have a customer that would like to have a display that detects when a human walks up to a screen (distance like from a standard terminal) that sensor then needs to trigger a display of some data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;existing conditions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - wifi is present&#xD;&#xA; - high metal environment (construction hall)&#xD;&#xA; - medium to cheap price range&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What kind of sensors should I look at?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45548" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13032" RevisionGUID="93880f28-6c7b-4128-89a0-aaf1bc695b67" CreationDate="2020-03-10T19:52:08.800" UserId="14493" Text="sensor for human detection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45549" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13032" RevisionGUID="93880f28-6c7b-4128-89a0-aaf1bc695b67" CreationDate="2020-03-10T19:52:08.800" UserId="14493" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13033" RevisionGUID="264e005b-cade-48f5-8c6b-a8b86e2b6885" CreationDate="2020-03-11T13:35:33.467" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="The specification of your laptop battery is 51 Wh, which is a unit of energy. Overly simplified, the battery could provide a power of 51W for 1 hour. Or 102W for 30 minutes. Again, it is not quite that simple, but the examples here are not entirely wrong either, and should allow you to get an idea of what this unit means.  &#xD;&#xA;The specification of your charger is 180W, which is a unit of power. I.e. it is able to provide a sustained power of 180W.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, the two specifications are not interchangeable. If you use a charger specified for less than 180W, your laptop might not recognise it at all, or it will run with reduced performance. Or in the absolute worst case, the charger blows up, which might even cause damage to your laptop. Powerful laptops these days are often designed in a way, that the battery alone can not provide enough power to run all components at maximum performance. Instead, they require the charger(s) to provide enough power. And the other way round: some laptops can even draw more peak power than the charger is designed for. In these cases, the battery is used to provide the delta, discharging it despite being connected to an outlet.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question: depending on which charger you buy, it might not be safe to use one rated for less than 180W. In any case, using a lower powered charger will result in lower performance of the laptop, or the charger might not be recognised at all. I strongly advise against using a charger rated for lower power than 180W in your case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45554" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13033" RevisionGUID="f6a67532-f146-41fa-9818-240aa2daaadb" CreationDate="2020-03-11T13:43:35.043" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 142 characters in body" Text="The specification of your laptop battery is 51 Wh, which is a unit of energy. Overly simplified, the battery could provide a power of 51W for 1 hour. Or 102W for 30 minutes. Again, it is not quite that simple, but the examples here are not entirely wrong either, and should allow you to get an idea of what this unit means.  &#xD;&#xA;The specification of your charger is 180W, which is a unit of power. I.e. it is able to provide a sustained power of 180W.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Consequently, the two specifications are not interchangeable. If you use a charger specified for less than 180W, your laptop might not recognise it at all, or it will run with reduced performance. Or in the absolute worst case, the charger blows up, which might even cause damage to your laptop. Powerful laptops these days are often designed in a way, that the battery alone can not provide enough power to run all components at maximum performance. Instead, they require the charger(s) to provide enough power. And the other way round: some laptops can even draw more peak power than the charger is designed for. In these cases, the battery is used to provide the delta, discharging it despite being connected to an outlet.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To answer your question: depending on which charger you buy, it might not be safe to use one rated for less than 180W. In any case, using a lower powered charger will result in lower performance of the laptop, or the charger might not be recognised at all. I strongly advise against using a charger rated for lower power than 180W in your case.&#xD;&#xA;Judging by the main components of your laptop alone (GTX 1070, Intel CPU with 45W TDP), it definitely needs a charger that can provide 180W." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13035" RevisionGUID="28337989-612c-4a53-b2a8-443c8bf474da" CreationDate="2020-03-12T02:28:20.573" UserId="635" Text="so browsing through Amazon I find NAS's that seem to be the right fit. This one for instance seems good: [The Synology 12 bay](https://www.amazon.com/Synology-Bay-DiskStation-DS2419-Diskless/dp/B07NF987TP/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/133-3241833-7859504?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07NF987TP&amp;pd_rd_r=1d9b601e-9fa1-444b-a90a-0063fd2284ab&amp;pd_rd_w=AMicF&amp;pd_rd_wg=EVemh&amp;pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&amp;pf_rd_r=96SAQJ5C9VX1VB0KFFX1&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=96SAQJ5C9VX1VB0KFFX1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But the price is wayyyyyy too much ($1500 at the time of writing this). I've been buying HP Proliant G8s for virtualization so I'm used to getting really good equipment for very cheap (e.g. 32 core 100gb ram servers for under $300).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been searching eBay for a similar NAS solution (SAS, 10GbE, LPMI, dual processors/power supplies nice to haves). However, I'm unsure where/how I can find servers/NASes that support huge LFF drives. I would like to fill up a 12 bay with 16TB Exos but I can't find any with RAID controllers that support large hard drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know how I can find a cheap NAS that supports high TB count LFF HDs? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13035" RevisionGUID="28337989-612c-4a53-b2a8-443c8bf474da" CreationDate="2020-03-12T02:28:20.573" UserId="635" Text="Best Cheap NAS from eBay with Support for LFF" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13035" RevisionGUID="28337989-612c-4a53-b2a8-443c8bf474da" CreationDate="2020-03-12T02:28:20.573" UserId="635" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45570" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="188333c7-c2c8-472d-8a87-75ed8f122278" CreationDate="2020-03-12T04:02:52.880" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="8beb689b-1b0e-4366-bfa7-413d8060d2a3" CreationDate="2020-03-12T06:57:22.530" UserId="1885" Comment="Removed edit call out; that's what version history is for." Text="I have three screens connected to my PC and I want to rotate one of them so that it's vertical. I'm not talking about rotating the image; I know I can do that in Display Preferences. I am talking about physically rotating the monitor itself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, none of my three screens have stands which would allow the user to pick if he wants to position the screen vertically or horizontally - only the horizontal placement is possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, this is not acceptable for me and I am looking for a way to bypass this. Is there an extra piece of equipment that can be strapped on to the monitor or the stand that would allow the monitor to be vertical?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the screens that I have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung S22B300&#xD;&#xA; - Philips PHL 223V5&#xD;&#xA; - Dell E2218HN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45572" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12944" RevisionGUID="8beb689b-1b0e-4366-bfa7-413d8060d2a3" CreationDate="2020-03-12T06:57:22.530" Comment="Proposed by 1885 approved by 14417 edit id of 1025" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45573" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11225" RevisionGUID="2d3a05e9-0b51-4bfb-9119-185ce952a35e" CreationDate="2020-03-12T07:28:58.253" UserId="1410" Comment="added 34 characters in body" Text="As per [this question](https://opendata.stackexchange.com/questions/15329/free-source-of-ais-data-api/), I want to obtain [AIS ship tracking](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_identification_system) data worldwide.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find a free source, but can find [a website where all members pool their AIS data](http://www.aishub.net/api). So, buying a very cheap AIS receiver could be a solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found one for about $250 on AliExpress - is there anything cheaper?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only requirement is cheapest (plus, can receive some kind of AIS data, of course)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45574" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="73a28109-a6b2-4f76-8857-37343b4cca57" CreationDate="2020-03-12T08:01:05.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45575" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12602" RevisionGUID="50dd470d-1678-4c5e-a864-b4b1a0f81fbc" CreationDate="2020-03-12T14:22:13.760" UserId="1808" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="I am unable to find one.  &#xD;&#xA;And below 2TB this doesn t gives advantages over ssd in size. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45576" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13036" RevisionGUID="4d387e71-0b06-401f-8ff4-6dac14db5c38" CreationDate="2020-03-12T16:32:25.807" UserId="14500" Text="My broadband has always been ADSL and I have always used the router supplied by the ISP, whichever the one of the year is. These routers never let me browse while I am downloading torrents. Web pages will eventually display but the browser's response is glacial. Meanwhile the torrents are going fast - it isn't traffic shaping. I have experimented with the torrent client settings of course and used different clients. It doesn't make a difference. It is the same whatever computer I use and if one or more torrents are running at as much as 20% of my broadband's capacity on one computer, internet use on that and other computers, wifi or ethernet, is affected. The more simultaneous torrents, the more and earlier the effect happens. I think it can only be the router. It is not an upload or download bandwith issue. I have monitored both, and limited them in the torrent clients.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What reasonably cheap ADSL routers cope well with torrenting? I will probably go to fibre this year. Will I have the same problem do you think?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45577" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13036" RevisionGUID="4d387e71-0b06-401f-8ff4-6dac14db5c38" CreationDate="2020-03-12T16:32:25.807" UserId="14500" Text="Torrenting blocks browsing. Need new router advice" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45578" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13036" RevisionGUID="4d387e71-0b06-401f-8ff4-6dac14db5c38" CreationDate="2020-03-12T16:32:25.807" UserId="14500" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45579" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13037" RevisionGUID="1ee71b91-e7bb-4204-91f3-23574ce1e52a" CreationDate="2020-03-12T18:15:57.960" UserId="14501" Text="I am looking for a small laptop to match my [RCA Voyager Pro][1]. For me, this is a matter of character and style. I want something with decent specifications that I can fit in my pocket (see table below):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------+----------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Screen      | Under 9&quot; |&#xD;&#xA;    | RAM         | 16GB     |&#xD;&#xA;    | SSD         | 300GB+   |&#xD;&#xA;    | Cores       | 2+       |&#xD;&#xA;    | Clock Speed | 3GHz+    |&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------+----------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I came across something called the [One Netbook One Mix 3S Yoga][2], which seemed to be exactly what I was looking for. However, after reading the customer reviews, I realized that this laptop has a problem with overheating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was the only the only pocket-sized laptop I could find the internet. Is there a different one I may have overlooked?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.rcaav.com/shop/computing/tablets/rca-voyager-pro-7-16gb-tablet-keyboard-case-android-8-rct6873w42kccf9/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4719T2/ref=psdc_13896609011_t2_B07L7DVDL3&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45580" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13037" RevisionGUID="1ee71b91-e7bb-4204-91f3-23574ce1e52a" CreationDate="2020-03-12T18:15:57.960" UserId="14501" Text="Is there a mini-laptop I can buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45581" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13037" RevisionGUID="1ee71b91-e7bb-4204-91f3-23574ce1e52a" CreationDate="2020-03-12T18:15:57.960" UserId="14501" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45582" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13038" RevisionGUID="3f206573-5a7b-4783-9a99-a15be2225f3a" CreationDate="2020-03-12T22:41:18.067" UserId="5440" Text="**GPD** is THE brand for such toys. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But your list of requirements I think isn't realistic (and in a way not even relevant.) Even normal big laptops don't usually match those specs so why would you look for them in a miny device and then expect it shouldn't even be overly hot... (And TBH, comparing to the RCA Voyager Pro which has 1 GB RAM why are you looking for 16 GB?....)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you do consider going with **GPD**, there is the 8.9&quot; **[GPD P2 Max][1]** and its smaller brother the 7&quot; **[GPD Pocket 2][2]**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/2TMqXdN&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/3aS5WUI" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="a609122f-8ae4-4cb4-8645-6aeb5929b92d" CreationDate="2020-03-13T04:00:43.847" UserId="10739" Comment="A better title" Text="I have a USB dongle for the internet. I want to use the internet in LAN RJ45 mode for my application.  &#xD;&#xA;So my question is instead of buying a costly router (~1500 Rs) for the conversion, can I buy a converter or any technique for the same." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45584" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="a609122f-8ae4-4cb4-8645-6aeb5929b92d" CreationDate="2020-03-13T04:00:43.847" UserId="10739" Comment="A better title" Text="Is there an adapter to convert my USB internet dongle to Ethernet RJ45 male" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45585" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="a609122f-8ae4-4cb4-8645-6aeb5929b92d" CreationDate="2020-03-13T04:00:43.847" Comment="Proposed by 10739 approved by -1 edit id of 1026" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45586" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13016" RevisionGUID="1a16de1c-2daf-413a-b0cb-a185c9dc8b3c" CreationDate="2020-03-13T04:00:43.847" UserId="6047" Comment="A better title" Text="I have a USB dongle for the internet. I want to use the internet in LAN RJ45 mode for my application.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Instead of buying a costly router (~1500 Rs) for the conversion, can I buy a converter or any technique for the same?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13037" RevisionGUID="13659c6e-61ab-415d-83ac-c1d2d192bbed" CreationDate="2020-03-13T16:35:55.847" UserId="14501" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a small laptop to match my [RCA Voyager Pro][1]. For me, this is a matter of character and style. I want something with decent specifications that I can fit in my pocket (see table below):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------+----------------+&#xD;&#xA;    | Screen      | Under 9&quot;       |&#xD;&#xA;    | RAM         | 8GB+           |&#xD;&#xA;    | SSD         | 300GB+         |&#xD;&#xA;    | Processor   | Intel Core i3+ |&#xD;&#xA;    +-------------+----------------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I came across something called the [One Netbook One Mix 3S Yoga][2], which seemed to be exactly what I was looking for. However, after reading the customer reviews, I realized that this laptop has a problem with overheating.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This was the only the only pocket-sized laptop I could find the internet. Is there a different one I may have overlooked?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.rcaav.com/shop/computing/tablets/rca-voyager-pro-7-16gb-tablet-keyboard-case-android-8-rct6873w42kccf9/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4719T2/ref=psdc_13896609011_t2_B07L7DVDL3&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45588" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13039" RevisionGUID="6565212d-4b95-40e1-88ed-938fe8b353c4" CreationDate="2020-03-13T19:33:56.447" UserId="14506" Text="*([x-post from stackexchange/superuser][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my current setup at home:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now, I am able to connect remotely to my work computer at the office, both via my Mac work laptop and my Windows desktop. However, new restrictions will soon prevent any VPN connections from non-corporate devices, which means that my work laptop will soon be the only link through which I can connect remotely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this, I am looking for suggestions on how to achieve both of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Keep the ability to use multiple monitors when remoting into my&#xD;&#xA;    office computer, or using my work laptop.** &#xD;&#xA; 2. **Be able to easily&#xD;&#xA;    switch between a &quot;work&quot; context (again, either remoting into office&#xD;&#xA;    computer or using work laptop) and my personal desktop computer.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've never owned/used KVMs or docking stations. It seems as if a lot of the solutions I find when looking online deal with sharing input (i.e. mouse and keyboard) across multiple devices/contexts, which is not exactly what I'm going for: I have no need to have 2 &quot;active&quot; contexts simultaneously, I just want to have the ability to go from one context to the other without going through a ritual of cable switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, here's what the (so far theoretical) best solution looks like to me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here, the &quot;magic software&quot; I'm looking for would have the ability to turn my Windows desktop into a simple relay that would get video input from the Mac laptop and display it on my screens, while also sending mouse + keyboard input to the Mac laptop (bonus points if the laptop can act as a 3rd monitor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, to me, this feels like the ideal solution, since it doesn't involve buying any additional hardware, but **I'm open to any suggestions that would help me achieve point 1) and 2)** that I specified above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, here's me being proactive about some potential questions I might get:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Why use a physical connection between the desktop and laptop, when you could use remote viewer solution X, Y, or Z?&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I don't have anything against this per-se, except that I feel that a physical connection, if possible, just makes more sense. I've also had frustrating experiences with VNC in the past, and I don't know of any that behaves well with a multi-monitor setup. There's also the fact that I would prefer to keep the &quot;over the network&quot; traffic to a minimum, considering the scenario where I'll be remoting from work laptop into my office computer. If you have a suggestion for a remote viewer that doesn't suck, I'm all ears.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware specs?&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows workstation&#xD;&#xA;  - Video card: Radeon 290x (2x DVI, 1x HDMI, 1x DisplayPort)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen 1&#xD;&#xA;  - Acer XG270HU (connected via DisplayPort)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen 2&#xD;&#xA;   - Some old Samsung monitor (connected via DVI)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mac laptop&#xD;&#xA;  - Macbook Pro 13-inch 2017 &#xD;&#xA;  - Connectors: Two &quot;Thunderbolt 3&quot; ports (USB-Connector)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1532340/seeking-recommendations-for-switching-between-mac-laptop-and-windows-workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yhdS.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYppk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45589" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13039" RevisionGUID="6565212d-4b95-40e1-88ed-938fe8b353c4" CreationDate="2020-03-13T19:33:56.447" UserId="14506" Text="Seeking hardware recommendations for switching between Mac laptop and Windows workstation using multi-monitor setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45590" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13039" RevisionGUID="6565212d-4b95-40e1-88ed-938fe8b353c4" CreationDate="2020-03-13T19:33:56.447" UserId="14506" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45593" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="41be8315-7f47-4303-b329-ff913639e9f8" CreationDate="2020-03-14T05:01:00.100" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45594" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12888" RevisionGUID="679a82ac-6b5e-4b6a-b5a8-2f31ca2329b3" CreationDate="2020-03-14T06:00:30.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45595" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="50a997bd-1b32-4cae-ba51-97143fbe5858" CreationDate="2020-03-14T13:41:07.320" UserId="14477" Comment="added 136 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a tiny, cheap laser projector that just outputs texts from a terminal. That's it. The simpler, the better. The output can be low resolution pixels or laser traced lines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something the laser part of a laser projection keyboard. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnoTC.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45596" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="b49c442a-15c0-4fd5-a18f-c7d919952663" CreationDate="2020-03-14T17:02:25.333" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45597" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="c1df6b10-5165-446a-8f25-65f20ee6b4ad" CreationDate="2020-03-14T18:02:55.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="6137db47-fc89-41fd-b04a-90137f1ba71b" CreationDate="2020-03-14T20:58:56.607" UserId="14509" Text="I know that there are tablets and also some laptops/notebooks for which they have touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;Now my question is that: are there any external touch screen (for instance 15-inch) probably with wire to connect to my non-touch screen laptop, and I can write and draw over it, I mean it is working as an external touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are, what is its name?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="6137db47-fc89-41fd-b04a-90137f1ba71b" CreationDate="2020-03-14T20:58:56.607" UserId="14509" Text="external touch screen for laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="6137db47-fc89-41fd-b04a-90137f1ba71b" CreationDate="2020-03-14T20:58:56.607" UserId="14509" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45601" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13041" RevisionGUID="88fdc7cf-2a55-4242-b099-705fb4cd4b16" CreationDate="2020-03-15T00:29:29.803" UserId="6089" Text="The best collection of words I can find appear to be &quot;[Drawing Monitor Tablets][1]&quot; which doesn't always exclude those without displays. Read carefully any you might select as they could be a high end digitizing tablet but no display. Having a display (monitor/screen) as part of the tablet makes graphics editing a bit easier, but the prices usually reflect this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon has many and Wacom is a popular product line:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![wacom tablet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Larger sizes command higher prices, of course, but offer higher native resolution to go along with fine detail entry at lower zoom figures.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.hereon.biz/drawing-monitor/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGqdV.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45603" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13014" RevisionGUID="86c8f3b1-4749-4868-a5c3-b3bc4552494c" CreationDate="2020-03-15T08:41:33.913" UserId="14477" Comment="change image to link to image; corrected grammer" Text="I'm looking for a tiny, cheap laser projector that just outputs texts from a terminal. That's it. The simpler, the better. The output can be low resolution pixels or laser traced lines.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like the laser part of a [laser projection keyboard][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/CnoTC.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45604" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="200f9e00-11c7-4d53-9ae7-fb628e0ac300" CreationDate="2020-03-15T11:52:09.047" UserId="14509" Comment="added 13 characters in body" Text="I know that there are tablets and also some laptops/notebooks for which they have touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;Now my question is that: are there any cheap external touching pad or touch board (for instance 15-inch or like a4 paper size) together with a pen and probably with a wire connecting to my (non-touch screen) laptop, that I can write and draw over it, and see its results on my laptop screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are, what is its name?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45605" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="926c2279-cdd7-4843-8078-3d33556e3408" CreationDate="2020-03-15T11:57:38.413" UserId="14509" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I know that there are tablets and also some laptops/notebooks for which they have touch screen.&#xD;&#xA;Now my question is that: are there any cheap external touching pad or board (for instance 15-inch or like a4 or a5 paper size) together with a pen and probably with a wire/or wireless connecting to my (non-touch screen) laptop, that I can write and draw over it, and see its results on my laptop screen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are, what is its name?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45606" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13040" RevisionGUID="926c2279-cdd7-4843-8078-3d33556e3408" CreationDate="2020-03-15T11:57:38.413" UserId="14509" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="external touch pad/board for non-touch laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45607" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12907" RevisionGUID="008020c7-55a3-47d9-931f-33b6e0ea0104" CreationDate="2020-03-15T15:02:55.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45608" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13042" RevisionGUID="584bc766-957b-443d-9160-4dfd2f467485" CreationDate="2020-03-16T05:35:36.467" UserId="14512" Text="Years ago Tyan had the Thunder line of motherboards, mostly in the EATX form factor. They were notable for being quad socket designs and also supported the addition of a mezzanine card with another 4 CPU sockets with another 16 RAM slots. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any currently produced quad socket motherboards in a desktop/workstation compatible form factor like EATX that can also be expanded with a daughter or mezzanine card with additional CPUs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45609" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13042" RevisionGUID="584bc766-957b-443d-9160-4dfd2f467485" CreationDate="2020-03-16T05:35:36.467" UserId="14512" Text="Quad socket motherboards that support mezzanine or daughtercards with additional CPU sockets?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45610" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13042" RevisionGUID="584bc766-957b-443d-9160-4dfd2f467485" CreationDate="2020-03-16T05:35:36.467" UserId="14512" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45611" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13043" RevisionGUID="1e3473d5-dafe-4265-b01f-61afd262b689" CreationDate="2020-03-16T13:40:56.750" UserId="14282" Text="Here's a few options for you, both Touchpads and Graphic Drawing Tablets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Perixx PERIPAD-501 Wired USB Touchpad][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [VOGEK Trackpad Touchpad, JellyComb USB Wired Touchpad with Multi-Touch Navigation][2] &#xD;&#xA; - [XP-Pen G430S Graphic Drawing Tablet][3] &#xD;&#xA; - [XP-Pen StarG640 Graphic Drawing Tablet][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://amzn.to/33kEts6&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://amzn.to/2wVKMpX&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://amzn.to/3d4ZdZi&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://amzn.to/33sCpOP" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13044" RevisionGUID="9dcac27c-68e4-4d79-8349-e0fcad59d923" CreationDate="2020-03-16T13:42:48.740" UserId="1410" Text="As per my comment, I found some affordable AIS receivres [here](https://mods.marin.nl/display/MIOD/AIS+Data+Sources).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest seems to be [this one](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-a021-ais-receiver-dongle/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Receiving on dual channels (161.975 MHz and 162.025 MHz) alternately&#xD;&#xA;    Auto-hopping channel algorithm improves captured message rate by 4%&#xD;&#xA;    Manually adjustable hopping interval rates (0.25 sec, 1 sec, 30 sec and auto-hopping)&#xD;&#xA;    Sensitivity down to -104 dBm@30% PER&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 12 nautical miles receiving range&#xD;&#xA;    USB 2.0 powered (&lt;26mA @5.0V)&#xD;&#xA;    Serial output: 38400 bps baud rate over USB&#xD;&#xA;    Message output in NMEA 0183 format&#xD;&#xA;    QK-A021 AIS Receiver USB Dongle(Auto-hopping V2.0)&#xD;&#xA;    SMA connector for 50 Ohm VHF antenna&#xD;&#xA;    SMA to BNC coaxial adaptor included&#xD;&#xA;    Compatible with Windows XP,7,8,10, Mac OS X, Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What’s included?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1 x QK-A021 v.2.0&#xD;&#xA;    1 x SMA-BNC coaxial adapter&#xD;&#xA;    1 x USB extension cable&#xD;&#xA;    1 x CD containing Manuals, Configuration Software and driver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $60 / Eur 55 / £50, I doubt that I will find cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only question is what kind of an antenna I would need. They sell [one for a further £30](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-as02-149-vhf-antenna/), but I will shop around for a cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For programming, I would imagine that it presents itself as a serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNOWj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPH6i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13045" RevisionGUID="ddccd7df-fe09-401e-9ca1-52a58959003a" CreationDate="2020-03-16T15:14:38.983" UserId="14359" Text="I can confirm Dell D3100 works well with 3 displays (also other features of docking station works well).&#xD;&#xA;But note all displays work with max 1920 (I had to connect my 29&quot; display directly to laptop hdmi port)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45614" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="9ce52620-c900-430e-83ab-62904a04f45f" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:01:10.863" UserId="9825" Comment="added 379 characters in body; edited title" Text="An upgrade left me with some components to reuse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and I want a Linux-friendly build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. Don't know if that requires [IOMMU][1] as all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything I could find by searching Amazon and Newegg for an x470 OR x570 motherboard has at least a Realtek audio adapter, and many have Realtek LAN and/or WiFi. None have Linux driver support from the manufacturer; Realtek drivers are a massive recurring pain, quite frequently, over at https://askubuntu.com . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any AM4 motherboard have manufacturer support for Linux? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any without Realtek devices? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45615" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="9ce52620-c900-430e-83ab-62904a04f45f" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:01:10.863" UserId="9825" Comment="added 379 characters in body; edited title" Text="Wanted: Linux-friendly AM4 motherboard, multiple M.2 slots, without Realtek" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45616" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="06f2774d-d8ab-453d-b6c3-e69e1fbaedf1" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:03:13.080" UserId="9825" Comment="93" />
  <row Id="45617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13044" RevisionGUID="23eb8ec4-2f59-4e70-b7f7-599435853dea" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:29:38.237" UserId="1410" Comment="edited body" Text="As per my comment, I found some affordable AIS receivers [here](https://mods.marin.nl/display/MIOD/AIS+Data+Sources).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest seems to be [this one](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-a021-ais-receiver-dongle/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Receiving on dual channels (161.975 MHz and 162.025 MHz) alternately&#xD;&#xA;    Auto-hopping channel algorithm improves captured message rate by 4%&#xD;&#xA;    Manually adjustable hopping interval rates (0.25 sec, 1 sec, 30 sec and auto-hopping)&#xD;&#xA;    Sensitivity down to -104 dBm@30% PER&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 12 nautical miles receiving range&#xD;&#xA;    USB 2.0 powered (&lt;26mA @5.0V)&#xD;&#xA;    Serial output: 38400 bps baud rate over USB&#xD;&#xA;    Message output in NMEA 0183 format&#xD;&#xA;    QK-A021 AIS Receiver USB Dongle(Auto-hopping V2.0)&#xD;&#xA;    SMA connector for 50 Ohm VHF antenna&#xD;&#xA;    SMA to BNC coaxial adaptor included&#xD;&#xA;    Compatible with Windows XP,7,8,10, Mac OS X, Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What’s included?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1 x QK-A021 v.2.0&#xD;&#xA;    1 x SMA-BNC coaxial adapter&#xD;&#xA;    1 x USB extension cable&#xD;&#xA;    1 x CD containing Manuals, Configuration Software and driver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $60 / Eur 55 / £50, I doubt that I will find cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only question is what kind of an antenna I would need. They sell [one for a further £30](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-as02-149-vhf-antenna/), but I will shop around for a cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For programming, I would imagine that it presents itself as a serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNOWj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPH6i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13046" RevisionGUID="c251d412-1b3e-4697-adde-bbd7f007ef9d" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:39:52.827" UserId="9825" Text="I would start with a [pressure sensitive floor mat][1] which gives a switch closure when someone steps on the mat, or an infrared sensor which [senses a person][2] [by reflection from an infrared LED][3].  Either would be monitored by an [Arduino controller][4] which, when presence is selected, provides power to the monitor [through a relay][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/283807213427?chn=ps&amp;norover=1&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&amp;mkcid=2&amp;itemid=283807213427&amp;targetid=883564623986&amp;device=c&amp;mktype=pla&amp;googleloc=9032873&amp;poi=&amp;campaignid=6469750549&amp;mkgroupid=93041470030&amp;rlsatarget=pla-883564623986&amp;abcId=1141176&amp;merchantid=119303975&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://randomnerdtutorials.com/arduino-with-pir-motion-sensor/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/grove-infrared-reflective-sensor-v1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.arduino.cc/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3191" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45619" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13047" RevisionGUID="16df271d-a571-41af-a6bb-e5a7025d23e4" CreationDate="2020-03-17T06:48:12.347" UserId="9825" Text="I would recommend Brother MFC color lasers, such as the [MFCL3770CDW][1] which, at $400 retail, satisfies all of your specifications. Ubuntu drivers are available for direct [download as a DEB file][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.brother-usa.com/products/mfcl3770cdw&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/downloadtop.aspx?c=us&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=mfcl3770cdw_us_eu_as" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45621" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="9c875518-0f93-48e1-8f2d-a2540241f5a7" CreationDate="2020-03-17T08:58:18.287" UserId="1410" Text="[This](https://thepihut.com/products/flightaware-pro-stick-plus-usb-sdr-ads-b-receiver) looks like a lovely little toy, but I am unclear which antenna to use with it , and those on the site cost more than double the price of the receiver itself. It collects ADS-B (aircraft info) which I intend to process in software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a pure software guy, with zero hardware knowledge, who is thinking of buying such a receiver to play around with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live two miles from a major airport. Any idea if I could get away without an antenna (told you I know nothing of hardware ;-)? If not, what's the cheapest I can get, with post &amp; package to the UK? I would prefer to use it indoors, if at all possible, rather than running a cable out to the garden, or even hanging it out of an upstairs window.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything else that I need to know? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45622" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="9c875518-0f93-48e1-8f2d-a2540241f5a7" CreationDate="2020-03-17T08:58:18.287" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap SMA antenna for this ADS-B (aifcraft info) receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45623" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="9c875518-0f93-48e1-8f2d-a2540241f5a7" CreationDate="2020-03-17T08:58:18.287" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45628" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13051" RevisionGUID="ba6cce4d-ef04-425d-91c6-361a4acbb961" CreationDate="2020-03-17T12:48:19.323" UserId="14282" Text="I've used the ASUS B450-F for my last Ubuntu build. It was originally a R7 1700x on an ASUS B350-F, then I later swapped it for a R7 2700x on an ASUS B450-F. No issues with either board.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifications: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-B450-F-GAMING/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45629" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="5a370f69-d7b4-42ab-b932-69993bf13ba7" CreationDate="2020-03-17T15:47:07.537" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="An upgrade left me with some components to reuse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and I want a Linux-friendly build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. Don't know if that requires [IOMMU][1] as all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything I could find by searching Amazon and Newegg for an x470 OR x570 motherboard but none have Linux driver support from the manufacturer; Realtek drivers are a massive recurring pain, quite frequently, over at https://askubuntu.com and I definitely wish to avoid Realtek LAN and WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any AM4 motherboard have manufacturer support for Linux? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any without Realtek LAN and WiFi devices? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45630" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="ceaa53f0-51e8-46e2-b597-74af16422003" CreationDate="2020-03-17T15:54:14.857" UserId="9825" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="An upgrade left me with some components to reuse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and I want a Linux-friendly (Debian family) build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. Don't know if that requires [IOMMU][1] as all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything I could find by searching Amazon and Newegg for an x470 OR x570 motherboard but none have Linux driver support from the manufacturer; Realtek drivers are a massive recurring pain, quite frequently, over at https://askubuntu.com and I definitely wish to avoid Realtek LAN and WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any AM4 motherboard have manufacturer support for Linux? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any without Realtek LAN and WiFi devices? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45631" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="4dec13c7-f76c-4bcc-bf33-76ce8820d0dc" CreationDate="2020-03-17T17:56:50.963" UserId="9825" Text="UK amateur radio stores will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][1]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45632" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13053" RevisionGUID="92152dfe-3b3b-45a9-bd77-9887310e344d" CreationDate="2020-03-17T18:12:17.950" UserId="9825" Text="Dimensions per https://www.apple.com/ipad-pro/specs/ are 281 mm x 215 mm x 6mm and it masses 633 grams or less (depending on whether WiFi is present). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is so much less than any 48 cm class display (smallest popular size), so a monitor arm will surely work, if [this tablet arm][1] specifically citing the iPad 12.9&quot; is not suitable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same vendor has a [free-standing stand][2] for your iPad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zoro.com/cta-digital-tablet-tabletop-arm-mount-gray-pad-tam/i/G3890988/feature-product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.zoro.com/cta-digital-height-adjustable-floor-stand-for-ipad-pad-afs/i/G2008268/#specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45633" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="0ff836c3-3d39-4c87-8696-360c65c86520" CreationDate="2020-03-17T18:16:20.273" UserId="9825" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][2]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45634" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="f5f4a4da-a9dc-41ed-b9e5-8794eee74e2d" CreationDate="2020-03-17T18:22:21.030" UserId="9825" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. But, do you need male, reversed male, female, or reversed female connection? Find out before buying.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's an [11 quid mini mag mount][2] to sit on a pie plate (should put it on a flat metal object to provide a ground plane).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][3]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hamradio.co.uk/aerials-antenna-manufacturers-mydel-surmen-antennas/diamond/mydel-surmen-ut106-sma-female-pd-2652.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45635" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="957482f3-6561-4834-b0b6-eeb4766f62bb" CreationDate="2020-03-17T18:32:03.890" UserId="9825" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. But, make sure to get a standard  male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's an [17 quid (with shipping) mini mag mount][2] to sit on a pie plate (should put it on a flat metal object to provide a ground plane).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][3] and a metre of still, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][4]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hamradio.co.uk/aerials-antenna-manufacturers-mydel-surmen-antennas/diamond/mydel-surmen-ut106-sma-male-pd-2653.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45638" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13053" RevisionGUID="e68d675c-9433-4ea5-ae56-f0d3d0003f3a" CreationDate="2020-03-17T21:38:47.740" UserId="9825" Comment="added 53 characters in body" Text="Dimensions per https://www.apple.com/ipad-pro/specs/ are 281 mm x 215 mm x 6mm and it masses 633 grams or less (depending on whether WiFi is present). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That is so much less than any 48 cm class display (smallest popular size), so a monitor arm will surely work, if [this PAD-TAM tablet arm offered by Zoro.com, their # G3890988][1] which specifically mentions the iPad 12.9&quot;, is not suitable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same vendor has a [free-standing stand &quot;CTA Digital #PAD-AFS&quot;, Zoro # G2008268][2] for your iPad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [search there for VESA][3] may provide the case you seek; if not, please provide a web link from a vendor or standard body which explains what a &quot;VESA-case&quot; is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zoro.com/cta-digital-tablet-tabletop-arm-mount-gray-pad-tam/i/G3890988/feature-product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.zoro.com/cta-digital-height-adjustable-floor-stand-for-ipad-pad-afs/i/G2008268/#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.zoro.com/search?q=VESA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13046" RevisionGUID="f9e6f13c-1910-46b3-bcc1-07145616229a" CreationDate="2020-03-17T21:46:51.210" UserId="9825" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I would start with a [pressure sensitive floor mat][1] which gives a switch closure when someone steps on the mat, or an infrared sensor which [senses a person][2] [by reflection from an infrared LED][3]. The latter does work on folks wearing black, BTW.  Either would be monitored by an [Arduino controller][4] which, when presence is selected, provides power to the monitor [through a relay][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/283807213427?chn=ps&amp;norover=1&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&amp;mkcid=2&amp;itemid=283807213427&amp;targetid=883564623986&amp;device=c&amp;mktype=pla&amp;googleloc=9032873&amp;poi=&amp;campaignid=6469750549&amp;mkgroupid=93041470030&amp;rlsatarget=pla-883564623986&amp;abcId=1141176&amp;merchantid=119303975&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://randomnerdtutorials.com/arduino-with-pir-motion-sensor/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/grove-infrared-reflective-sensor-v1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.arduino.cc/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3191" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45640" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="194fa2aa-3f84-412b-9434-abb90c081e2f" CreationDate="2020-03-17T23:35:00.597" UserId="9825" Comment="added 183 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. But, make sure to get a standard  male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's an [17 quid (with shipping) mini mag mount][2] to sit on a pie plate (should put it on a flat metal object to provide a ground plane).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][3] and a metre of still, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][4]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hamradio.co.uk/aerials-antenna-manufacturers-mydel-surmen-antennas/diamond/mydel-surmen-ut106-sma-male-pd-2653.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13055" RevisionGUID="e0c78776-b1b6-42a9-b1dc-2afd8378cc13" CreationDate="2020-03-17T23:53:47.407" UserId="9825" Text="Your motherboard manufacturer Gigabyte  [recommends][1] a pair of matching DDR3 2400(OC)/2133/1866/1600/1333 MHz dual channel memory modules, up to 32 GB each.  AMD Memory Profile (AMP)/ Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules are accepted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabyte published a list of [qualified memory modules][2] from 1 GB - 8GB in size for your review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/GA-F2A78M-HD2-rev-30/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_ga-f2a75m-hd2_v.3.0_e.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45644" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="10b616c5-184c-4834-b3cf-afca638d51bc" CreationDate="2020-03-18T02:34:37.760" UserId="9908" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="I strongy prefer to use the trackpoint instead of trackpad or mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only nitpick I find is that's positioned between GH. I'd prefer it to be between FG (as a left-handed). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any keyboards, from Lenovo on laptops or others, external keyboards, that place the trackpoint between FG (left handed people) or HJ (right handed)? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13058" RevisionGUID="46209cd8-5536-4df6-9867-fa7963912f3f" CreationDate="2020-03-18T06:29:21.403" UserId="9825" Text="Adding a very rugged case, such as an [Otterbox][1], [Urban Armor Gear][2],  or [Ballistic Hardcore][3], would be a less spendy solution as well as providing more protection than the much more expensive phones deliberately designed for ruggedness. Then, you would have your choice of phones which meet all your other wishes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.otterbox.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.urbanarmorgear.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://information.goballisticcase.com/hardcore-series-info.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="5d9fc768-9363-4e24-92cc-33e4e4908401" CreationDate="2020-03-18T06:39:27.257" UserId="9825" Comment="Spelling of subject line" Text="[This](https://thepihut.com/products/flightaware-pro-stick-plus-usb-sdr-ads-b-receiver) looks like a lovely little toy, but I am unclear which antenna to use with it , and those on the site cost more than double the price of the receiver itself. It collects ADS-B (aircraft info) which I intend to process in software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a pure software guy, with no knowledge of hardware, who is thinking of buying such a receiver to play around with it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live two miles from a major airport. Any idea if I could get away without an antenna (told you I know nothing of hardware ;-)? If not, what's the cheapest I can get, with post &amp; package to the UK? I would prefer to use it indoors, if at all possible, rather than running a cable out to the garden, or even hanging it out of an upstairs window.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anything else that I need to know? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45647" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="5d9fc768-9363-4e24-92cc-33e4e4908401" CreationDate="2020-03-18T06:39:27.257" UserId="9825" Comment="Spelling of subject line" Text="Cheap SMA antenna for this ADS-B (aircraft info) receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45648" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="5d9fc768-9363-4e24-92cc-33e4e4908401" CreationDate="2020-03-18T06:39:27.257" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 1410 edit id of 1028" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13059" RevisionGUID="32393f16-9287-456d-a420-783b57ba2190" CreationDate="2020-03-18T07:08:32.007" UserId="9825" Text="Performance will be limited by the [SATA-II drive interface][1] designed for the original HDD, so spending extra money on high performance SSDs would be a waste.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The aforementioned Samsung and Crucial SSDs do have a good reputation. If you are buying to use it with Windows, make sure the manufacturer includes a free [S.M.A.R.T.][2] diagnostic app to work with your version of Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd015812&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13060" RevisionGUID="5d785b55-0a30-42b7-ba04-da27b06a9916" CreationDate="2020-03-18T07:13:03.753" UserId="9825" Text="Display brightness should be in the specs as [nits][1] or candelas per square metre (symbol: cd/m2). Each model offered you should have a specifications page or document on the Internet you can reference, if not printed in the device manual. Look for the lower number in the range of nits from lower to higher.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, [polarizing computer display filters][2] are inexpensive and easy to add to nearly any display. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candela_per_square_metre&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=computer%20screen%20polarizing%20filter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45651" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13061" RevisionGUID="0abe4815-1fac-4c40-8a89-14dd7c4451f9" CreationDate="2020-03-18T07:42:52.143" UserId="9825" Text="Here's a [79W power amp][3] available commercially to interface with any WiFi adapter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Licensed amateurs in the US can use up to 1,500W, so getting more will not be difficult.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if you add a [gain antenna][1], you can increase signal strength ('Effective Radiated Power') for any WiFi adapter. If the WiFi connection will be point-to-point, both the router and PC could use an antenna for further boosts to signal strength, and those antennas need not be expensive; I've seen them made with [tongue depressors and paper clips][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=wifi%20gain%20antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-WIFI-24GHz-Yagi-Antenna/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.pasternack.com/50-db-gain-2.7-ghz-high-power-high-gain-amplifier-sma-pe15a5022-p.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="658d132e-28ec-4640-867d-586aac44e630" CreationDate="2020-03-18T13:57:22.060" UserId="14519" Text="I'm looking to share two USB-C monitors between 2 laptops (work and personal). So I'd like a switch which takes in 4 USB-C inputs and has 2 USB-C outputs. The idea being I can then plug both laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch and decide which on can use the monitors at any given time. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This, effectively but all using USB Type-C connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Monitor    Monitor&#xD;&#xA;   |          |&#xD;&#xA;   +----++----+&#xD;&#xA;        ||&#xD;&#xA;      Switch&#xD;&#xA;      ||  ||&#xD;&#xA; +----+|  |+----+&#xD;&#xA; |+----+  +----+|&#xD;&#xA; ||            ||&#xD;&#xA;Work          Home&#xD;&#xA;Laptop      Laptop&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if such a product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45653" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="658d132e-28ec-4640-867d-586aac44e630" CreationDate="2020-03-18T13:57:22.060" UserId="14519" Text="USB Type-C Switch for Monitor Sharing between machines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45654" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="658d132e-28ec-4640-867d-586aac44e630" CreationDate="2020-03-18T13:57:22.060" UserId="14519" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13063" RevisionGUID="e6679244-5f8e-4f9e-90db-3080ea2d84ac" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:03:25.577" UserId="14520" Text="Is there a fan controller, that plugs into the case fan motherboard header, but actually takes power from the PSU, and therefore can power multiple fans but control speed based on sensors built-into the motherboard? I know I could connect them to the PSU but this PC isn't always being taxed heavily and I don't want the noise if I can avoid it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45656" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13063" RevisionGUID="e6679244-5f8e-4f9e-90db-3080ea2d84ac" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:03:25.577" UserId="14520" Text="PSU-powered, motherboard case-fan header-controlled, multiple fan controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45657" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13063" RevisionGUID="e6679244-5f8e-4f9e-90db-3080ea2d84ac" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:03:25.577" UserId="14520" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;fan-controller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45658" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="719c3eac-fdb4-4d6f-b15a-ce18c9a8d8ad" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:22:04.503" UserId="14519" Comment="edited body" Text="I'm looking to share two USB-C monitors between 2 laptops (work and personal). So I'd like a switch which takes in 4 USB-C inputs and has 2 USB-C outputs. The idea being I can then plug both laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch and decide which on can use the monitors at any given time. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This effectively, but all using USB Type-C connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Monitor    Monitor&#xD;&#xA;   |          |&#xD;&#xA;   +----++----+&#xD;&#xA;        ||&#xD;&#xA;      Switch&#xD;&#xA;      ||  ||&#xD;&#xA; +----+|  |+----+&#xD;&#xA; |+----+  +----+|&#xD;&#xA; ||            ||&#xD;&#xA;Work          Home&#xD;&#xA;Laptop      Laptop&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if such a product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45659" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7a8b4d75-970c-40f1-bc10-6d93f202e959" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:26:17.553" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, fix spelling in subject and body" Text="I'd like to find a solution for my grandpa who's severely hearing impaired to help him participating in the daily life. More specifically, I thought about an on-the-fly speech to text recognition with a very simple, large user interface on a tablet. Small enough to carry it around without bothering, but larger then a casual large mobile phone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought about a tablet with a good microphone in combination with &#xD;&#xA;[Google Live Transcribe][1] because I was impressed how Google translate works nicely for on-the-fly translation which is built on the mentioned API. However I don't want to buy a random tablet just because of its screen but not able to catch multiple people in a room clearly because of a bad mic. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you have recommendations for hardware or software for that purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ai.googleblog.com/2019/02/real-time-continuous-transcription-with.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45660" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7a8b4d75-970c-40f1-bc10-6d93f202e959" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:26:17.553" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, fix spelling in subject and body" Text="Dictation tablet with Google Live Transcribe for hearing impaired" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45661" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7a8b4d75-970c-40f1-bc10-6d93f202e959" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:26:17.553" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, fix spelling in subject and body" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;adaptive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45662" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="7a8b4d75-970c-40f1-bc10-6d93f202e959" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:26:17.553" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14466 edit id of 1029" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45666" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="01bbbe7a-42b0-4262-b90e-d53ca86c4950" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:54:25.977" UserId="14518" Comment="Another tag" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45667" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="01bbbe7a-42b0-4262-b90e-d53ca86c4950" CreationDate="2020-03-18T14:54:25.977" Comment="Proposed by 14518 approved by 9908 edit id of 1035" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45669" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="359f6fb0-b69b-4999-b4ed-32ae1a7a2c72" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:30:53.130" UserId="9825" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="An upgrade of another PC left me w/ components to reuse in this PC. I'd like to think before buying. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and want a Linux-friendly (Debian family) build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. I want [IOMMU][1] and all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything I could find by searching Amazon and Newegg for an x470 OR x570 motherboard reveal no Linux driver support from the manufacturer; Realtek drivers are a massive recurring pain, quite frequently, over at https://askubuntu.com and I definitely wish to avoid Realtek LAN and WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding drivers for Linux are the eternal problem as most motherboard manufacturers do not provide them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any AM4 motherboard have manufacturer support for Linux?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45670" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13061" RevisionGUID="de664462-cd02-4fc1-975a-8e4c9ea30e56" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:35:38.210" UserId="9825" Comment="added 409 characters in body" Text="Here's a [79W power amp][3] available commercially to interface with any WiFi adapter, so you can pick the best available feature set without respect for power, and let the power amp provide the gain. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Licensed amateurs in the US can use up to 1,500W and use digital modes, so getting more power will not be difficult if you need more than 79W before antenna gain.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you add a [gain antenna][1], you can increase signal strength ('Effective Radiated Power') for any WiFi adapter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the WiFi connection will be point-to-point, both the router and PC could use an horizontally polarized antenna for further boost to signal strength. Since most signals in the background will be vertically polarized, using horizontal polarization for point-to-point will reduce your background noise floor, giving you an even better S/N ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those antennas need not be expensive; I've seen them made with [tongue depressors and paper clips][2].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=wifi%20gain%20antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-WIFI-24GHz-Yagi-Antenna/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.pasternack.com/50-db-gain-2.7-ghz-high-power-high-gain-amplifier-sma-pe15a5022-p.aspx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45671" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13065" RevisionGUID="40998e68-d7b4-4eb3-945b-f38f705c2133" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:39:32.517" UserId="14521" Text="With the current Covid-19 outbreak, many people and families are doing remote/telehealth medical appointments. I'm thinking, as a precaution, to get the tools needed in case someone in my family gets sick or must get quarantined.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering what webcam/tools would be good here? Some good features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Very high res and works well in medium-light conditions.&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless or long wire might be good, so doctor can look into your ear.&#xD;&#xA; - Any devices that allow looking into crevices like ear.&#xD;&#xA; - Something to measure vital signs, like blood pressure, blood oxygen and pulse rate&#xD;&#xA; - USB Stethoscope- because, (like a programmer debugging) I think hearing the beat itself, if it skips, etc, gives doctors a better clue. Also for stomach issues, often a doctor uses it, or for lung checks while you breath.&#xD;&#xA; - Would be interesting to go beyond conventional, like an infrared camera? Would that even be useful?&#xD;&#xA; - What else?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I found so far:**&#xD;&#xA;Remember, I am not a doctor and have near-zero medical training. Please consult a doctor or health person.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For ears/eye/spot exams:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-1-3Megapixels-Waterproof-Adjustable-Compatible/dp/B07JHJWKCY/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or in Canada:&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07H3RQR3M/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Blood Pressure:&#xD;&#xA;  - https://www.amazon.com/iHealth-Bluetooth-Monitor-MFi-Certified-FSA-Eligible/dp/B00ANJAKF8/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Blood oxygen levels:&#xD;&#xA;  - https://smile.amazon.com/Zacurate-Fingertip-Oximeter-Saturation-batteries/dp/B07B9X3DBX/&#xD;&#xA;(But not USB. History would be important. USB ones are too expensive, over $99. Does anyone know of a cheaper option?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB Stethoscope:&#xD;&#xA;  - http://www.usbsteth.com/pcp-usb-stethoscopes/&#xD;&#xA;But the order page says &quot;not found&quot;. Anyone know of a place to buy one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wish there was a simple &quot;remote health&quot; all in one hardware package. Anyone know if better options than these?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45672" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13065" RevisionGUID="40998e68-d7b4-4eb3-945b-f38f705c2133" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:39:32.517" UserId="14521" Text="Web camera, heart monitor or tools for online medical appointments?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45673" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13065" RevisionGUID="40998e68-d7b4-4eb3-945b-f38f705c2133" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:39:32.517" UserId="14521" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45674" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13066" RevisionGUID="23d374c7-0b21-43c2-906c-5f83d9d6d593" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:43:32.873" UserId="9825" Text="Pair the phone with a laptop or desktop PC. Both [Windows 10][1] and [Linux][2] support that functionality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On screen popup notifications are standard, and you can add audibles for that purpose. I can answer calls if I pick up in time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/how-to-connect-windows-10-and-android-using-microsofts-your-phone-app&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://vitux.com/how-to-see-android-notifications-on-the-ubuntu-desktop/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45675" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13067" RevisionGUID="bcefc9aa-2b2a-41c9-8b1f-8ec32d6887a9" CreationDate="2020-03-18T15:50:40.810" UserId="9825" Text="Wireless DisplayPort adapters such as https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-DisplayPort-Display-Emulator-Fit-Headless/dp/B073YCMYNW allow you to send a signal to monitor &quot;A&quot;, and with DisplayPort monitors you can cable from monitor &quot;A&quot; to &quot;B&quot; and &quot;B&quot; to &quot;C&quot;. &quot;B&quot; and &quot;C&quot; are mirrored to match what's on &quot;A&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45676" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13068" RevisionGUID="c4b2c60b-6f38-4909-81e1-7afbf8b686cd" CreationDate="2020-03-18T16:02:33.673" UserId="9825" Text="Your laptop's [hardware manual][1] and [user guide][2] show no expansion slot for a [PC Card][3] WiFi Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, replacing the factory-installed internal Mini-PCIe card with a Mini-PCIe card with is 2.4 / 5 GHz capable is a reasonable choice. You may also consider adding an external WiFi device, such as a USB-attached WiFi 5GHz adapter if you are reticent to open the laptop, but, truly, it's easy to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've replaced many of that model with no problem. Pages 39-40 of your [hardware manual][1] provide specific illustrated instructions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/lenovo_g_z_50_series_hmm.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/lenovo_g40_g50_z40_z50_ug_english.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13069" RevisionGUID="4beb09e0-1985-4318-9dfd-ad77efd5a3e5" CreationDate="2020-03-18T16:04:23.557" UserId="14282" Text="If the wireless options do not work out, and you have access to more PCs, you could use a presentation software and connect to the presentation from the PCs hooked up to the other screens.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LogMeIn, Teamviewer, Microsoft Teams, Cisco Webex, Google Hangouts, Skype, ect.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13070" RevisionGUID="5611bf47-ab3a-47d6-840d-3f24fa4db0d2" CreationDate="2020-03-18T16:41:08.597" UserId="9825" Text="Any tablet with a 3.5mm four-pole jack for headphone will also accept an external microphone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external microphone will&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - allow you to place the mic where it will work best &#xD;&#xA; - allow you to move the microphone away from air ducts and other noise sources&#xD;&#xA; - allow you to handle the tablet without thumps, scratches, and other noise conducted by the body of the tablet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some microphones are [directional][1], to zero in on a particular person or group of persons; but even the cheapest external mic will almost always outperform a chassis mic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want a [breakout cable][2] ([another one][3]) with the 3.5mm TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) [plug][4] to end in separate 3.5mm jacks for microphone plus earphone/headphone, if simultaneous earphone or headphone use is desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zalmar.com/detail-YBS_Categories-Dictation-LFH9171.htm &#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/528607-listen-technologies-la-436-ts-to-trtrs-mic-adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.alzodigital.com/products/alzo-smartphone-3-5mm-trrs-break-out-y-splitter-cord-w-stereo-mono-mic-adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/2914/1528-2262-ND/7241507 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45681" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13071" RevisionGUID="bcdf081d-4776-4f56-a07b-325b4092401a" CreationDate="2020-03-18T17:12:12.210" UserId="1243" Text="Looking for a desktop hub (ie. designed to sit permanently on a desk, not get thrown in my laptop bag) that provides 4+ USB-C ports. There seem to be very few USC-C hubs around and they're all designed for laptops. I don't care if it connects to the PC via USB-C or A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ability to provide power and charge at high-speed would be nice too, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like [this][1], but with USB-C instead of A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Upgraded-Aluminum-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B00MHHQPZI/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=aukey%20hub&amp;qid=1584550313&amp;sr=8-9&amp;swrs=EC0AF6B2D7123088564E619FE22B30FA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45682" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13071" RevisionGUID="bcdf081d-4776-4f56-a07b-325b4092401a" CreationDate="2020-03-18T17:12:12.210" UserId="1243" Text="USB-C Hub (4+ USB-C ports) for desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45683" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13071" RevisionGUID="bcdf081d-4776-4f56-a07b-325b4092401a" CreationDate="2020-03-18T17:12:12.210" UserId="1243" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="bd917b98-0d26-4cab-b903-419bd930d623" CreationDate="2020-03-18T18:09:30.640" UserId="9825" Comment="Grammar, spelling, web sources" Text="I've never planned to upgrade my CPU.  However, most of the components in my PC have been upgraded, and the CPU is now the performance bottleneck. It doesn't flinch except for gaming where it is maxed out, while the GPU still have quite a way to go before being maxed out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Intel CPU is the [Core 2 Quad Q6600][1] and is now worth 10$ on ebay.  In the same Intel CPU family, there is the [Core 2 Quad Q9650][2] at around 20$.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So for around 10$ net, I could switch from *2.4 GHz* to *3 GHz*.   This is quite cheap to upgrade, but I'm clueless as to how much better it would be. Also, there might be some other potential compatible models that I'm unaware of because I don't know what I should look at to know if a CPU is compatible or not with the [Pegatron-made][3] [Benicia 1.01][4]. I'm guessing CPUs released today don't fit anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to pc-specs, the CPU socket for the Pegatron Benicia 1.01 is [BGA 1023][5]. Does that means that any CPU with this socket is compatible?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there even suitable upgrade candidate?  &#xD;&#xA;If so, what compatible CPU would be a significant upgrade?  &#xD;&#xA;If there are, what should I look at to know if they are compatible or not?   &#xD;&#xA;I would have used a compatibility sites to find out, but all of those I've tried aren't even aware of the motherboard because it is so old.... Those who did recommended some crazy up to date CPU which instantly made me suspicious of their credibility...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there is quite a lot a questions here, but hopefully these questions will help understand the needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/29765/intel-core-2-quad-processor-q6600-8m-cache-2-40-ghz-1066-mhz-fsb.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/35428/intel-core-2-quad-processor-q9650-12m-cache-3-00-ghz-1333-mhz-fsb.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01324212&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://mobilespecs.net/motherboard/Pegatron/Pegatron_Benicia_1-01.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45685" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="bd917b98-0d26-4cab-b903-419bd930d623" CreationDate="2020-03-18T18:09:30.640" UserId="9825" Comment="Grammar, spelling, web sources" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45686" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12865" RevisionGUID="bd917b98-0d26-4cab-b903-419bd930d623" CreationDate="2020-03-18T18:09:30.640" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 7606 edit id of 1032" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45687" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13072" RevisionGUID="fc108351-8548-4fe9-bb40-4f2262d42744" CreationDate="2020-03-18T18:20:53.990" UserId="14061" Text="&gt; I need a wireless network adapter that has a TX power output of 3W or more and uses USB ports for connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;maximum output power from USB is 2.5 watts (at 5v).  You can look that up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FCC reference:  https://www.air802.com/fcc-rules-and-regulations.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;max you are going to find commercially is +36dBm or at most 4 watts or EIRP, and I doubt anyone is going to make this as a USB connected device which would then need supplemental power derived from a 120VAC transformer.  And I doubt you will find anything that is plug in via PCI or PCIe and having a power rating over 1 watt from the pci card from within the computer.  You are looking at some connection from your computer to a wifi router that then has capability to transmit into the 1-4 watt range with various antenna types.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you also didn't mention if you are doing 2.4ghz or 5 ghz, which is important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Licensed amateurs in the US can use up to 1,500W ....&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;down in the VHF band and lower, for amateur radio.  Saying that like you said it is way out of context." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45688" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13061" RevisionGUID="da2b02dd-335c-48ff-b726-7636cbca3f78" CreationDate="2020-03-18T18:53:01.387" UserId="9825" Comment="added 347 characters in body" Text="Here's a [79W power amp][1] available commercially to interface with any WiFi adapter, so you can pick the best available feature set without respect for power, and let the power amp provide the gain. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Licensed amateurs in the US can use up to [1,500 W PEP per Part 97][2] in non-spread-spectrum digital modes, so finding equipment to get more power will not be difficult if you need more than 79 W before antenna gain;; constant, of course, with the legal requirements of your non-US location. Note I am not recommending this for use in the United States, and mention this just to assure you higher power amplifiers are available if needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you add a [gain antenna][3], you can increase signal strength ('Effective Radiated Power') for any WiFi adapter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the WiFi connection will be point-to-point, both the router and PC could use an horizontally polarized antenna for further boost to signal strength. Since most signals in the background will be vertically polarized, using horizontal polarization for point-to-point will reduce your background noise floor, giving you an even better S/N ratio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those antennas need not be expensive; I've seen them made with [tongue depressors and paper clips][4].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pasternack.com/50-db-gain-2.7-ghz-high-power-high-gain-amplifier-sma-pe15a5022-p.aspx&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.qsl.net/kb9mwr/projects/wireless/allocations.html#802.11a&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/search?q=wifi%20gain%20antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-WIFI-24GHz-Yagi-Antenna/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="e9d964e2-d5f2-4b0c-b48e-a2ff7f556149" CreationDate="2020-03-18T19:04:29.927" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="I want to share two USB-C monitors between 2 laptops (work &amp; personal). Each laptop can drive two monitors by USB-C as is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a USB-C matrix switch with four USB-C inputs and two USB-C outputs, so I can  plug each laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch, and decide which PC uses the monitors at any moment. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This effectively, but all using USB Type-C connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Monitor    Monitor&#xD;&#xA;   |          |&#xD;&#xA;   +----++----+&#xD;&#xA;        ||&#xD;&#xA;      Switch&#xD;&#xA;      ||  ||&#xD;&#xA; +----+|  |+----+&#xD;&#xA; |+----+  +----+|&#xD;&#xA; ||            ||&#xD;&#xA;Work          Home&#xD;&#xA;Laptop      Laptop&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if such a product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45691" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="e9d964e2-d5f2-4b0c-b48e-a2ff7f556149" CreationDate="2020-03-18T19:04:29.927" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="USB Type-C Switch for Monitor Sharing between PCs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45692" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="e9d964e2-d5f2-4b0c-b48e-a2ff7f556149" CreationDate="2020-03-18T19:04:29.927" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45693" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="e9d964e2-d5f2-4b0c-b48e-a2ff7f556149" CreationDate="2020-03-18T19:04:29.927" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14519 edit id of 1038" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45694" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13073" RevisionGUID="865f317b-5368-4701-96b2-f3e43d83e236" CreationDate="2020-03-18T20:35:48.013" UserId="9825" Text="I'd suggest the [ProCase BC72090][1] or another from that family.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/ProCase-Samsung-Galaxy-Tablet-stylus/dp/B00KSU6OSE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45695" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13074" RevisionGUID="fe05401a-476f-401f-9df7-b1a6049342be" CreationDate="2020-03-18T20:44:47.620" UserId="9825" Text="https://www.hummingbirdnetworks.com/tripp-lite-u460-004-2a2c gives you two USB-C out ports with 1.5A power each port, as does https://zendure.com/products/superport-4-silver-us .&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13076" RevisionGUID="31d57d06-53a6-45ca-9466-8c71a513329b" CreationDate="2020-03-18T21:00:27.927" UserId="9825" Text="What I found was a digital USB stethoscope with Pulse Ox  https://www.ebay.com/itm/CON-TEC-CMS-VE-Visual-Digital-Stethoscope-ECG-SPO2-PR-Electronic-Diagnostic-ECG-/263690719589 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13076" RevisionGUID="57016ffb-1e64-496b-9ae7-af5d201868f2" CreationDate="2020-03-18T21:08:00.133" UserId="9825" Comment="added 381 characters in body" Text="What I found was a digital USB stethoscope with optional Pulse Ox  https://www.ebay.com/itm/CON-TEC-CMS-VE-Visual-Digital-Stethoscope-ECG-SPO2-PR-Electronic-Diagnostic-ECG-/263690719589 or digital USB stethoscope with PC interface and SD card storage plus optional Pulse OX https://www.ebay.com/itm/CONTEC-Visual-Digital-Stethoscope-ECG-SPO2-PR-Electronic-Diagnostic-Bluetooth-CE/253958038129 . This adds BlueTooth (no idea which profile): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-Visual-Digital-Stethoscope-ECG-SPO2-PR-Electronic-Diagnostic-CMS-VESD/122874341655?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45701" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13074" RevisionGUID="367f18a1-d8be-4bf0-aee4-1a9d76454b60" CreationDate="2020-03-18T21:28:40.850" UserId="9825" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="https://www.hummingbirdnetworks.com/tripp-lite-u460-004-2a2c gives you two USB-C out ports with 1.5A power each port, as does https://zendure.com/products/superport-4-silver-us .  Unable to find a four USB-C port device.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45706" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13018" RevisionGUID="d2e3bf84-5708-4979-b2da-5c6dc92e3fd6" CreationDate="2020-03-19T04:45:07.750" UserId="1162" Comment="added 144 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an alarm system that does not require wiring between its different modules, but at the same time I do not want it to be on the internet.&#xA;&#xA;The only two modules I'm looking for are door/window open and motion detector. And a siren of course. The max distance between every two modules is 10m and the max spread of the whole system is 20m. Drywall interior walls.&#xA;&#xA;The system can use a Wi-Fi network that is not connected to the internet.&#xA;&#xA;When triggered, the system should emit an audible siren. The idea is that the alarm would be in use only when people are inside, and if it triggers, the dwellers can call emergency services themselves." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13078" RevisionGUID="2cf99f2a-3d2a-4340-9c86-e5c467e6bf13" CreationDate="2020-03-19T05:54:55.823" UserId="14524" Text="I am looking for a cheap CPU that supports virtualization. However, I do not know which CPU is better. Right now I'm looking for a CPU that supports an OS using QubesOS, a Xen virtualization technology. I have a Lenovo Thinkpad x230.&#xD;&#xA;Purpose of use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We do not play games, videos, or videos with high image quality. Basically, I'm going to run several VMs at the same time to search, email, and program in the browser, so I don't need a very high quality CPU like the Mac Pro. I can't afford my wallet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following are required for this OS: (Https://www.qubes-os.org/doc/system-requirements/)&#xD;&#xA;Minimum&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    64-bit Intel or AMD processor (x86_64 aka x64 aka AMD64)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel VT-x with EPT or AMD-V with RVI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel VT-d or AMD-Vi (aka AMD IOMMU)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    4 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    32 GiB disk space&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recommended&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Fast SSD (strongly recommended)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Intel IGP (strongly preferred)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        Nvidia GPUs may require significant troubleshooting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;        AMD GPU s have not been formally tested, but Radeons (RX580 and earlier) generally work well&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, please tell me about the following questions about CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    What are cheap and good quality manufacturers? (I don't need brand power.) In my opinion, Intel and AMD are equal in quality. Intel has a higher idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    How long is the life of the CPU? Or how many years should I buy a new one?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45708" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13078" RevisionGUID="2cf99f2a-3d2a-4340-9c86-e5c467e6bf13" CreationDate="2020-03-19T05:54:55.823" UserId="14524" Text="What is the cheapest CPU that supports virtualization?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45709" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13078" RevisionGUID="2cf99f2a-3d2a-4340-9c86-e5c467e6bf13" CreationDate="2020-03-19T05:54:55.823" UserId="14524" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13079" RevisionGUID="f01e90c3-ec33-4843-b88b-7754d8b79ee9" CreationDate="2020-03-19T06:56:40.773" UserId="1410" Text="I am looking for a tablet, which I will use only for email and, possibly, browsing (reading news items only). No games, videos, music, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bluettoth is not required; I am undecided about a SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer Linux, but could live with Android out of the box, especially if I could install Linux over it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The device should be large enough to read, but should fit inside a jacket pocket, so maximum size about that of a Kindle Paperwhite.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Battery life is of great importance to me, to the extent that I would prefer a back &amp; white, or greyscale screen, if there were such a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheaper, the better, but features mentioned above take precedence.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;End of question, only read further if you want an explanation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;Background: my current 'phone suffered an accident, and I am replacing it. It is a [Ulefone Power](https://www.techradar.com/uk/reviews/ulefone-power-5s-rugged-smartphone) with a 13,000 mAH battery (yup, you read that correctly). I generally charge it every 5 or 6 days (side note, I can heartily recommend all UleFone models; this is my 5th or 6th over the years. Affordable, full featured, cheap, but realisable).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As per my question [How can I escape Google?](https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/187982/how-can-i-escape-google), I don't want my soul tracked by Gogole, Facetweet, etc (I don't even use them - directly -  but they are tracking me). So, I have decided to switch to a dumb 'phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recall only ten years ago getting months between charges on a small, greyscale, Nokia, so will look for something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I only really use a 'phone when job-hunting. Every 12 months or so, as I am freelance. A handful of people use WhatsApp, but I can retrain them to use SMS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Beyond that, I have become accustomed to having email on the go, rather than just reading &amp; replying when I get home of an evening. I have also taken to reading news headlines in the browser. A device that will let me do those with a modicum of privacy (let me worry about that) and a long battery life would be welcome. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45711" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13079" RevisionGUID="f01e90c3-ec33-4843-b88b-7754d8b79ee9" CreationDate="2020-03-19T06:56:40.773" UserId="1410" Text="Linux or Android tablet with long battery life and cheap" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45712" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13079" RevisionGUID="f01e90c3-ec33-4843-b88b-7754d8b79ee9" CreationDate="2020-03-19T06:56:40.773" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45713" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="c44df894-0b43-42f6-947f-a44a17bc9d3d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T07:31:18.910" UserId="14518" Comment="Added a tag" Text="I have MSI GV62 8RC with Linux Mint 19 installed. It has 1 HDMI port and 1 miniDP which works mostly ok (sometimes I have to unplug and plug miniDP again few times to get it working).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But now I would like to one additional display which leads me to searching for docking station.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you suggest me something for my config?  &#xD;&#xA;The best would one with 3 Display Ports so I could just plug docking station to get it all work.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45714" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="c44df894-0b43-42f6-947f-a44a17bc9d3d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T07:31:18.910" UserId="14518" Comment="Added a tag" Text="Docking station with 3 Display Ports for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45715" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="c44df894-0b43-42f6-947f-a44a17bc9d3d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T07:31:18.910" UserId="14518" Comment="Added a tag" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45716" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="c44df894-0b43-42f6-947f-a44a17bc9d3d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T07:31:18.910" Comment="Proposed by 14518 approved by 14359 edit id of 1036" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13081" RevisionGUID="407749ba-0f7d-45b7-9cbf-d9a3f99dd33a" CreationDate="2020-03-19T11:50:11.370" UserId="14527" Text="**Hello community**. I just bought an HP laptop (HP 15 da1032) about a month ago, but i noticed that the laptop was heating with minimum amount of work load (i tried installing **Eclipse**),it goes around (39 C), and there is only ONE fan and ONE heat pipe for cooling the CPU(i7 8565u) and the GPU(NVIDIA mx-130), and the laptop back panel is Plastic. Now i want to know is there a better fan or heat pipe for my laptop? or is there any back panel that fit with my model? i searched online but i couldn't find something talk about replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here is a picture of my laptop inside:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnTXZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: There is some videos on YouTube trying to re-apply the **Thermal Paste**, i thought my laptop would not need this cause it's new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and,  i heard that back panels that are **Aluminum** or **Magnesium alloy**  will do a better job for cooling, will this really help with my laptop? i was wondered if it's available for my laptop model. Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13081" RevisionGUID="407749ba-0f7d-45b7-9cbf-d9a3f99dd33a" CreationDate="2020-03-19T11:50:11.370" UserId="14527" Text="Is there any FAN upgrade option for HP 15 da1032?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13081" RevisionGUID="407749ba-0f7d-45b7-9cbf-d9a3f99dd33a" CreationDate="2020-03-19T11:50:11.370" UserId="14527" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45724" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13082" RevisionGUID="3e09a5f8-68bb-4684-bc0c-7f6b60300ed0" CreationDate="2020-03-19T13:23:37.730" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="No. You are left with what the manufacturer deemed an acceptable cooling solution. Also, there are no replacement parts made from different materials.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Changing/reapplying high quality thermal paste can give better results, even if the device is new. Liquid metal compounds offer the lowest thermal resistance, but can cause damage to your machine, both in the short term (they are electrically conductive) and in the long term (they don't get along well e.g. with copper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it seems like you might be seeing a problem where there is none. The only temperature you mentioned is 39°C, which is completely safe and normal for modern mobile CPUs. Under load, they usually run above 90°C." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45725" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13083" RevisionGUID="b4848d92-c23e-4d56-95d1-8d9a88dd2ddc" CreationDate="2020-03-19T13:41:37.973" UserId="14528" Text="So I came across this great [article][1] about getting 660 frames per second from a Raspberry PI and it's default camera, and was wondering is there any way to crank the setup up with possibly higher framerate camera and faster processing hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand there should be a Camera Serial Interface on both camera and recording device, and the rest is just a software issue. I did some search and found something like [this][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So asking for any research advice, maybe there are some specific keywords I can search for, or maybe some brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hackaday.com/2019/08/10/660-fps-raspberry-pi-video-captures-the-moment-in-extreme-slo-mo/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMX307-MIPI-CSI-2-2MP-Star-Light-ISP-Camera-for-Raspberry-Pi-and-Jetson-Nano/293496855693?hash=item4455c69c8d:m:mKxwJQTODRxnqP7tTL_u-7A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45726" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13083" RevisionGUID="b4848d92-c23e-4d56-95d1-8d9a88dd2ddc" CreationDate="2020-03-19T13:41:37.973" UserId="14528" Text="Camera and motherboard with Camera Serial Interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45727" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13083" RevisionGUID="b4848d92-c23e-4d56-95d1-8d9a88dd2ddc" CreationDate="2020-03-19T13:41:37.973" UserId="14528" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45728" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13070" RevisionGUID="95619faf-c27d-4a7e-ab8f-b3a5d26c9832" CreationDate="2020-03-19T18:37:30.157" UserId="9825" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="Any tablet with a 3.5mm four-pole TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) jack (socket) for headphone will also accept an external microphone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An external microphone will&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - allow you to place the mic where it will work best &#xD;&#xA; - allow you to move the microphone away from air ducts and other noise sources&#xD;&#xA; - allow you to handle the tablet without thumps, scratches, and other noise conducted by the body of the tablet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some microphones are [directional][1], to zero in on a particular person or group of persons; but even the cheapest external mic will almost always outperform a chassis mic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want a [breakout cable][2] ([another one][3]) with the 3.5mm TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) [plug][4] to end in separate 3.5mm jacks for microphone plus earphone/headphone, if simultaneous earphone or headphone use is desired.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.zalmar.com/detail-YBS_Categories-Dictation-LFH9171.htm &#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/528607-listen-technologies-la-436-ts-to-trtrs-mic-adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.alzodigital.com/products/alzo-smartphone-3-5mm-trrs-break-out-y-splitter-cord-w-stereo-mono-mic-adapter&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/2914/1528-2262-ND/7241507 " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="5fea7efe-7de6-4ef9-8d2a-4c4e44067ace" CreationDate="2020-03-19T18:43:49.993" UserId="9825" Text="A pair of these http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a manual switch, though, and they are spendy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please, someone find something less expensive, as I can't. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45730" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="5473bd45-d3ec-4e0e-9bf8-9a56d9f8e4bd" CreationDate="2020-03-19T18:51:28.710" UserId="9825" Comment="added 286 characters in body" Text="A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][3] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. That's the best I could find&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45735" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13087" RevisionGUID="636a6eca-26ad-4547-8196-8207b387771d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T21:30:28.143" UserId="14530" Text="As many of you may know, the Coronavirus has stopped many of our lives. I, for one, am now taking college classes online. For many of my classes, I will need an webcam and microphone, although since most of my classes are just lectures, I don't necessarily feel the need to get an especially good webcam. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact, a webcam that has a lower resolution, higher sound compression, and I guess just all around terrible quality about it, would probably be better with the slower internet I now have use back at home. So, what is the worst webcam of all time?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45736" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13087" RevisionGUID="636a6eca-26ad-4547-8196-8207b387771d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T21:30:28.143" UserId="14530" Text="What is the worst webcam?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45737" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13087" RevisionGUID="636a6eca-26ad-4547-8196-8207b387771d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T21:30:28.143" UserId="14530" Text="&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45739" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13088" RevisionGUID="8eb74f3b-ceef-44ef-b55f-856bcccfb1a1" CreationDate="2020-03-19T21:59:15.290" UserId="9825" Text="How about &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A [Gemini][1] ([review][2]) ([review][3]) with Debian or Sailfish installed&#xD;&#xA; 2. a [PinePhone][4] (shipping now for _early adopters_) &#xD;&#xA; 3. a [PineTab][5] (Real Soon Now)  &#xD;&#xA; 4. a DIY tablet based on a https://www.pine64.org/rockpro64/ with exactly the display, battery, and case you prefer (I've used cigar boxes) &#xD;&#xA; 5. Installing the [/e/ OS on 89 different phones][6] of your choice, or &#xD;&#xA; 6. a [refurb with the /e/ OS][7] overwriting all the phone-home-ware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-PDA-WiFi-QWERTY-Keyboard/dp/B07TTT24QX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.zdnet.com/article/gemini-pda-a-long-term-evaluation-of-the-reborn-psion-series-5/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.pocket-lint.com/phones/reviews/143148-planet-gemini-pda-review&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://store.pine64.org/?product=pinephone-braveheart-limited-edition-linux-smartphone-for-early-adaptor&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.pine64.org/pinetab/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://e.foundation/get-support/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://e.foundation/e-pre-installed-refurbished-smartphones/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="7cbbf338-ca02-41c5-a75a-b2c11076f542" CreationDate="2020-03-19T22:52:03.853" UserId="9825" Comment="Added info from OP provided subsequently in Comments." Text="I want to share a pair of Dell S2719DC 27&quot; QHD (2560 x 1550 @ 59 Hz) resolution USB-C monitors between two 2018 MacBooks. The MacBooks dual-boot to run either MacOS 10.15 Catalina and Windows 10 (work &amp; personal). Each MacBook can drive two monitors by USB-C as is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a USB-C matrix switch with four USB-C inputs and two USB-C outputs, so I can  plug each laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch, and decide which PC uses the monitors at any moment. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This effectively, but all using USB Type-C connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Monitor    Monitor&#xD;&#xA;   |          |&#xD;&#xA;   +----++----+&#xD;&#xA;        ||&#xD;&#xA;      Switch&#xD;&#xA;      ||  ||&#xD;&#xA; +----+|  |+----+&#xD;&#xA; |+----+  +----+|&#xD;&#xA; ||            ||&#xD;&#xA;Work          Home&#xD;&#xA;Laptop      Laptop&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if such a product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45742" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="7cbbf338-ca02-41c5-a75a-b2c11076f542" CreationDate="2020-03-19T22:52:03.853" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14519 edit id of 1040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45743" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="c32fa762-af9e-4098-9737-5067048f750b" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:01:18.393" UserId="9825" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your monitors had dual USB-C input ports, that would be easy, for there's a smartphone app to [control which input is used][3]. But, the monitor specs show you choices are a) USB-C or B) HDM.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][4] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. That's the best I could find&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45744" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="be16fcff-18ad-4a87-9b10-045320cdd53d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:08:00.087" UserId="9825" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your monitors had dual USB-C input ports, that would be easy, for there's a iOS/Android/Windows 10 app to [control which input is used][3]. But, the monitor specs show you choices are a) USB-C or B) HDM(I).   If you would consider a USB-C to HDM adapter video adapter, switching with the aforementioned app may be a solution; all you need is a relatively dumb smartphone or tablet to control monitor sources without the pair of spendy matrix switches. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][4] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. That's the best I could find&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45745" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="90102923-368a-4532-983d-e80f72723e59" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:20:32.560" UserId="9825" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="1) A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) If your monitors had dual USB-C input ports, that would be easy, too easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Just for reference, a there's a iOS/Android/Windows 10 app to [control which input is used][3] and, the [monitor specs][4] show its input choices are a) USB-C or B) HDM(I). Not sue of how it woul work &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][5] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. That's the best I could find&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_electronics_accessories/esuprt_electronics_accessories_monitors/dell-s2719dc-monitor_user%27s-guide_en-us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45746" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="58bbf087-ac14-4ecf-a7e1-0a94c638ad14" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:27:37.980" UserId="9825" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="1) A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, **IF** the MacBook also **supports Thunderbolt 3 on the USB-C** we may have a solution. You have not specified MacBookPro or MacBookAir; which do you have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) StarTech.com has a [Thunderbolt 3 device][3] with one USB-C 3.2 in, two 3.2 USB-C out. The second StarTech out port could be converted to HDM(I). Since your monitors also accept HDM(I),  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][4] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/AV/display-and-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-to-dual-hdmi~TB32HD24K60&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45747" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="fc24e373-4c32-4a62-850a-abf4c7cc9f9d" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:39:44.567" UserId="9825" Comment="added 187 characters in body" Text="1) A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, **IF** the MacBook also **supports Thunderbolt 3 on the USB-C** we may have a solution. You have not specified MacBookPro or MacBookAir; which do you have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) StarTech.com has a [Thunderbolt 3 device][3] with one USB-C 3.2 in, two 3.2 USB-C out. The second StarTech out port could be converted to HDM(I). Since your monitors also accept HDM(I), adding such a [conversion cable][4] provides the second signal to each monitor. Then, an app which runs in Win10, an iOS phone/tablet or Android phone/table [tells your monitors to toggle][5] ([pro version][6]) between the USB-C 3.2 A/V data input and the HDMI A/V data input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][7] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/AV/display-and-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-to-dual-hdmi~TB32HD24K60&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/9/1/12758384/usb-c-hdmi-alt-mode-cables-specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Compare/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="5ba692ed-3531-4459-b9c4-9998f3ca4939" CreationDate="2020-03-20T02:59:41.200" UserId="9825" Comment="edited body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. But, make sure to get a standard  male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's an [17 quid (with shipping) mini mag mount][2] to sit on a pie plate (should put it on a flat metal object to provide a ground plane).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][3] and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][4]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hamradio.co.uk/aerials-antenna-manufacturers-mydel-surmen-antennas/diamond/mydel-surmen-ut106-sma-male-pd-2653.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45749" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="3e877188-7416-4fa9-a1a6-b16d092818e3" CreationDate="2020-03-20T03:02:46.400" UserId="9825" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="1) A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, **IF** the MacBook also **supports Thunderbolt 3 on the USB-C** we may have a solution. You have not specified MacBookPro or MacBookAir; which do you have?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) StarTech.com has a [Thunderbolt 3 device][3] with one USB-C 3.2 in, two 3.2 USB-C out. The second StarTech out port could be converted to HDM(I). Since your monitors also accept HDM(I), adding such a [conversion cable][4] provides the second signal to each monitor. Then, an app which runs in Win10, an iOS phone/tablet or Android phone/tablet [tells your monitors to toggle][5] ([pro version][6]) between the USB-C 3.2 A/V data input to the monitor and the HDMI A/V data input to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][7] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing stuff which ain't spendy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/AV/display-and-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-to-dual-hdmi~TB32HD24K60&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/9/1/12758384/usb-c-hdmi-alt-mode-cables-specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Compare/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45750" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13088" RevisionGUID="b161e64e-5a99-408c-9970-ef871aa376df" CreationDate="2020-03-20T03:10:10.377" UserId="9825" Comment="added 164 characters in body" Text="How about &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. A [Gemini][1] ([review][2]) ([review][3]) with Debian or Sailfish installed&#xD;&#xA; 2. a [PinePhone][4] (shipping now for _early adopters_) &#xD;&#xA; 3. a [PineTab][5] (Real Soon Now)  &#xD;&#xA; 4. a DIY tablet based on a https://www.pine64.org/rockpro64/ with exactly the display, battery, and case you prefer (I've used cigar boxes) &#xA; 5. A Pi-based [DIY handheld][6] &#xD;&#xA; 6. Installing the [/e/ OS on 89 different phones][7] of your choice, or &#xD;&#xA; 7. a [refurb with the /e/ OS][8] overwriting all the phone-home-ware?&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-PDA-WiFi-QWERTY-Keyboard/dp/B07TTT24QX&#xA;  [2]: https://www.zdnet.com/article/gemini-pda-a-long-term-evaluation-of-the-reborn-psion-series-5/&#xA;  [3]: https://www.pocket-lint.com/phones/reviews/143148-planet-gemini-pda-review&#xA;  [4]: https://store.pine64.org/?product=pinephone-braveheart-limited-edition-linux-smartphone-for-early-adaptor&#xA;  [5]: https://www.pine64.org/pinetab/&#xA;  [6]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Wio-Terminal-A-Raspberry-Pi-compatible-SBC-with-an-integrated-display-Wi-Fi-and-IR.458553.0.html&#xA;  [7]: https://e.foundation/get-support/&#xA;  [8]: https://e.foundation/e-pre-installed-refurbished-smartphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13091" RevisionGUID="2d2ace73-19f5-4419-ba21-e870e0c483ec" CreationDate="2020-03-20T05:50:40.943" UserId="14280" Text="I found the answer on Stack Exchange’s “Super User” fourm. This is ***taken directly*** from the post in “Super User”, ‘The chips don’t exist currently’. It is possible for this to be a thing, but USB-C is too new of a technology for this to be out yet. I’d expect this to be thing (assuming the COVID-19 outbreak ends before the end of Q2 in 2020 and the world doesn’t go into a recession, which statistically it will just based on the US stock market) in the end of Q4 in 2020 or sometime in 2021. Paraphrasing the “Super User” post again, ‘Intel is leading this technology of making a chip that can handle 1x USB-C to 2x+ USB-C’&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[SE Super User: Why can’t I find a USB-C hub with Multiple USB-C ports][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Pardon the formatting, I am tired and not on a PC where I could format this a lot better than this. Thank you in advance to whoever edits this answer, I greatly appreciate it)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1381139/why-cant-i-find-a-usb-c-hub-with-multiple-usb-c-ports/1414046" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12787" RevisionGUID="240e3d28-9059-4235-8bb8-a504a154ab8d" CreationDate="2020-03-20T06:00:27.107" UserId="14280" Comment="added 154 characters in body" Text="We just upgraded ours from our Netgear R7800 to an [Eero wifi system][1]. I love the new Eero system because it is easy to use, and does everything I need it to do. Ours came with a pack of 3, but you can easily expand the router count within the Eero app. Just note that the Eeros need the Android or iOS app to set up, and has no website to use like what a Netgear would have (i.e. routerlogin.net). I hope this helps, even after a couple of years after the original post.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nice thing about the Eero is that you can connect them wirelessly and have 2 ethernet ports on two Eeros and 1 ethernet port on one Eero or wired together, and still have a spare port on the slave Eeros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also tether Netgear routers together via ethernet cables if you really wanted to run ethernet cables around your home. Trust me, it’s not fun.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://eero.com/shop/eero-3-pack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45754" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13092" RevisionGUID="f029e143-852c-41cb-b971-a558d9330ace" CreationDate="2020-03-20T06:55:29.513" UserId="9825" Text="The [Gemini PDA][1] and [Cosmo Communicator][2] offer you a choice of Android or Linux, and have quite a bit more for you than JioPhones. A colleague just received the Cosmo and is very happy with its build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.www3.planetcom.co.uk/gemini-pda&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.planetcom.co.uk/products/cosmo-communicator" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45755" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13081" RevisionGUID="61b1f55c-da8d-49b3-bd56-cd7d66e933ab" CreationDate="2020-03-20T11:16:41.513" UserId="9825" Comment="Add technical specification web link for the CPU" Text="**Hello community**. I just bought an HP laptop (HP 15 da1032) about a month ago, but i noticed that the laptop was heating with minimum amount of work load (i tried installing **Eclipse**),it goes around (39 C), and there is only ONE fan and ONE heat pipe for cooling the CPU ([i7 8565u][1]) and the GPU (NVIDIA MX-130), and the laptop back panel is Plastic. Now i want to know is there a better fan or heat pipe for my laptop? or is there any back panel that fit with my model? i searched online but i couldn't find something talk about replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;here is a picture of my laptop inside:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: There is some videos on YouTube trying to re-apply the **Thermal Paste**, i thought my laptop would not need this cause it's new.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and,  i heard that back panels that are **Aluminum** or **Magnesium alloy**  will do a better job for cooling, will this really help with my laptop? i was wondered if it's available for my laptop model. Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/149091/intel-core-i7-8565u-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnTXZ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45756" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13081" RevisionGUID="61b1f55c-da8d-49b3-bd56-cd7d66e933ab" CreationDate="2020-03-20T11:16:41.513" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14527 edit id of 1039" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45757" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13063" RevisionGUID="f7681e15-27b0-4d75-9bd1-31c84ed156e7" CreationDate="2020-03-20T11:54:00.980" UserId="14520" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="Is there a fan controller, that plugs into the case fan motherboard header, but actually takes power from the PSU, and therefore can power multiple fans but control speed based on sensors built-into the motherboard? I know I could connect them to the PSU but this PC isn't always being taxed heavily and I don't want the noise if I can avoid it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard is ASRock X570 PRO4." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="9613e910-c596-4905-9095-cbc3404ec498" CreationDate="2020-03-20T12:03:12.730" UserId="14531" Text="I am looking for a potential upgrade to my laptop. I want something smaller, lighter and more portable, preferably made from metal. The processor needs to be something at the level of an AMD A9-9410 or better, as this is what my current laptop has. Other features that are necessary are: at least 32gb of storage and at least 4gb of ram with room to add an m.2 SSD, full HD 1920x1080 screen, as thin and light as possible and it must run windows 10. Nice-to-to-haves would be USB type C, backlight keyboard. I have a budget of about £250. Please can you advise me on what to buy? I have seen brands like CHUWI, Jumper and Teclast that all seem to do these standards of laptops  Thank You!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45759" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="9613e910-c596-4905-9095-cbc3404ec498" CreationDate="2020-03-20T12:03:12.730" UserId="14531" Text="What laptop should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45760" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="9613e910-c596-4905-9095-cbc3404ec498" CreationDate="2020-03-20T12:03:12.730" UserId="14531" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45762" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13095" RevisionGUID="4c43b1cd-d7e4-439b-b50c-1c8c3460ca53" CreationDate="2020-03-20T12:15:57.977" UserId="14531" Text="I would recommend a membrane 3x4 keypad from adafruit, I Just bought one and the keys are really easy to press and the pinout is easy to understand." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13096" RevisionGUID="aa753154-2367-41f4-af47-d3774bbbe806" CreationDate="2020-03-20T13:09:24.400" UserId="14282" Text="It's a bit pricey, but the Corsair iCue Commander PRO can handle up to six 3-pin or 4-pin fans. It is powered via SATA from your PSU. I do not recall if it plugs into the case fan header as well, but I do know that it comes with four temperature sensors that you can use for more accurate temperature control. It also supports two individual lighting channels, which can be split (using the Corsair node pro) to connect multiple RGB fans and LED strips. Most of the fan controllers that have the functionality you are looking for will come with lighting/RGB management and cost about the same price; unfortunately most companies do not offer a cheaper alternative without the lighting control.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/iCUE-CONTROLLERS/iCUE-Commander-PRO-Smart-RGB-Lighting-and-Fan-Speed-Controller/p/CL-9011110-WW&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-commander-pro-hardware-controller/6229603.p?skuId=6229603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13062" RevisionGUID="d9dfa929-3008-4e89-8437-5fe2a7c7da2b" CreationDate="2020-03-20T14:00:17.883" UserId="14519" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I want to share a pair of Dell S2719DC 27&quot; QHD (2560 x 1550 @ 59 Hz) resolution USB-C monitors between two 2018 MacBook Pros. The MacBooks dual-boot to run either MacOS 10.15 Catalina and Windows 10 (work &amp; personal). Each MacBook can drive two monitors by USB-C as is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like a USB-C matrix switch with four USB-C inputs and two USB-C outputs, so I can  plug each laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch, and decide which PC uses the monitors at any moment. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This effectively, but all using USB Type-C connectors:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;Monitor    Monitor&#xD;&#xA;   |          |&#xD;&#xA;   +----++----+&#xD;&#xA;        ||&#xD;&#xA;      Switch&#xD;&#xA;      ||  ||&#xD;&#xA; +----+|  |+----+&#xD;&#xA; |+----+  +----+|&#xD;&#xA; ||            ||&#xD;&#xA;Work          Home&#xD;&#xA;Laptop      Laptop&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know if such a product exists?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Steve." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45766" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="6d417ca1-cf1b-451a-9b18-30e812957e0a" CreationDate="2020-03-20T16:32:06.773" UserId="9825" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. Please specify you want a 2m antenna for monitoring 108-136MHz aircraft radios. But, make sure to get a standard  male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft VHF AM transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's an [17 quid (with shipping) mini mag mount][2] to sit on a pie plate (should put it on a flat metal object to provide a ground plane).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][3] and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][4]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.hamradio.co.uk/aerials-antenna-manufacturers-mydel-surmen-antennas/diamond/mydel-surmen-ut106-sma-male-pd-2653.php&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45767" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13084" RevisionGUID="38fb4dd2-ec3f-4073-9860-d5506847560c" CreationDate="2020-03-20T16:33:49.463" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 66 characters in body" Text="1) A pair of [Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches][1] controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a [manual switch][2], though, to make switching easy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C [3.2 for video][7] is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing much stuff which ain't spendy. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;==&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, since the MacBookPro supports Thunderbolt 3 on the USB-C we have a less spendy solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) StarTech.com has a [Thunderbolt 3 device][3] with one USB-C 3.2 in, two 3.2 USB-C out. The second StarTech out port could be converted to HDM(I). Since your monitors also accept HDM(I), adding such a [conversion cable][4] provides the second signal to each monitor. Then, an app which runs in Win10, an iOS phone/tablet or Android phone/tablet [tells your monitors to toggle][5] ([pro version][6]) between the USB-C 3.2 A/V data input to the monitor and the HDMI A/V data input to the monitor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/AV/display-and-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-to-dual-hdmi~TB32HD24K60&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/9/1/12758384/usb-c-hdmi-alt-mode-cables-specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.displayfusion.com/Compare/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="ffc8b86d-8330-4e56-aa70-78b996f72897" CreationDate="2020-03-20T16:48:47.843" UserId="9825" Comment="added 181 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. Please specify you want a UHF antenna for monitoring 1090 MHz [ADS-B/MLAT][2] aircraft transmissions. Conventional aircraft voice radio is 108-136 MHz AM; make sure to specify to the seller you need 1090 MHz. Also, make sure to get a standard male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft UHF transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's rubber duckie 1GHZ capable SMA antennas [which attach to the receiver][3]. Put the receiver module near a windows on a pie plate or other flat metal object to provide a ground plane. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1GHz UHF mag mount antennas][4] can be ordered with the SMA connector to get it further away from the module if needed.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][5] and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][6]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://flightaware.com/adsb/mlat/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/d/digi-intl/uhf-300-mhz-to-1-ghz-antennas&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.rfwiz.com/comtelco-a21wb698b-uhf-3dbd&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="753def54-3ad7-46b5-860f-b5ab0ae14a12" CreationDate="2020-03-20T17:18:31.957" UserId="9825" Comment="added 593 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. Please specify you want a UHF antenna for monitoring 1090 MHz [ADS-B/MLAT][2] aircraft transmissions. Conventional aircraft voice radio is 108-136 MHz AM; make sure to specify to the seller you need 1090 MHz. Also, make sure to get a standard male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft UHF transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here's rubber duckie 1GHZ capable SMA antennas [which attach to the receiver][3], a broader selection of [all that vendor's 1GHz capable antennas][4], [another vendor's choices][5], and [other selections][6]. Put the receiver module near a windows on a pie plate or other flat metal object to provide a ground plane. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1GHz UHF mag mount antennas][7] can be ordered with the SMA connector to get it further away from the module if needed.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][8] and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][9]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://flightaware.com/adsb/mlat/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/d/digi-intl/uhf-300-mhz-to-1-ghz-antennas&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/rf-if-and-rfid/rf-antennas/875?FV=1883%7C378890%2C1989%7C0%2C-8%7C875%2C1850%7C417326%2C1850%7C417333%2C1850%7C419655&amp;quantity=0&amp;ColumnSort=0&amp;page=1&amp;datasheet=1&amp;pageSize=500&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.everythingrf.com/search/all-antennas/filters?page=1&amp;country=UK&amp;stype=;Rubber%20Duck;&amp;sindustry=;Aerospace%20%26%20Defense;&amp;sfrequency_min=1000&amp;sfrequency_max=1200&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.nearson.com/antennas.php?page_id=67&amp;0=1&amp;1=41&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.rfwiz.com/comtelco-a21wb698b-uhf-3dbd&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13097" RevisionGUID="f8f9bbd1-8b96-41d5-831c-4474d76bc9e1" CreationDate="2020-03-20T17:20:44.240" UserId="14280" Text="In the US, finding a new laptop under $265 USD (That is the equivalent to 250 euro) is tough, but I have found a couple that might interest you. US laptops might be different than what European laptops can offer in build though, so keep that in mind. The only issue is you're not going to find an M.2 expansion slot on a budget laptop. Even my Dell Inspiron Gaming Laptop doesn't have one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Lenovo IdeaPad][1] This option has pretty much everything you want. It has 4GB RAM, 128GB SSD, Windows 10 and a nice AMD CPU that is extremely similar to your CPU. I don't see an M.2 slot.  &#xD;&#xA;[ASUS VivoBook L203MA][2] This is another nice option. 4GB of RAM, 64GB of eMMC Storage, Windows 10, and a decent CPU. The screen isn't Full HD, it is 720p (1366 x 768). This even has a USB-C port.  &#xD;&#xA;[HP Elitebook 8470p][3] This is an AWESOME laptop if it was new. This is a refurbished laptop, but that means you will get a lot more bang for your buck. Speaking from experience, this is a stellar CPU and RAM config with 8GB of RAM. 500GB HDD (SATA) and you can remove this one and add a bigger 2.5&quot; SATA drive down the road, DVD/CD Drive, 720p screen and a backlight keyboard. This is one of the best ones you can find below $250 USD.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I had to purchase one for you, I would buy the HP Elitebook 8470p. It is a great laptop with some stellar hardware under the hood, and you'll enjoy the added speed compared to what a new laptop would be in that same range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Performance-Dual-Core-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B07Q147J19/ref=sxin_4_osp116-f17eeea2_cov?ascsubtag=amzn1.osa.f17eeea2-9d01-49de-b642-4c55bc87a780.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&amp;creativeASIN=B07Q147J19&amp;crid=1PEZYAQZ08CKX&amp;cv_ct_cx=laptops%20under%20300%20dollars&amp;cv_ct_id=amzn1.osa.f17eeea2-9d01-49de-b642-4c55bc87a780.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&amp;cv_ct_pg=search&amp;cv_ct_wn=osp-search&amp;keywords=laptops%20under%20300%20dollars&amp;linkCode=oas&amp;pd_rd_i=B07Q147J19&amp;pd_rd_r=02fb2029-a776-411d-beba-621837965ff6&amp;pd_rd_w=tJ3fu&amp;pd_rd_wg=YTgdH&amp;pf_rd_p=dac4d66e-658f-4cae-b10d-a35ac5eca0c3&amp;pf_rd_r=9A4BHJ373BVWQ2JXP2QW&amp;qid=1584722597&amp;sprefix=laptops%20under%20%2Caps%2C231&amp;sr=1-4-32a32192-7547-4d9b-b4f8-fe31bfe05040&amp;tag=gadgetreview-tca-20&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Ultra-Thin-Processor-L203MA-DS04-Microsoft/dp/B07N6S4SY1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AQ316/?tag=blw014-20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="dd966477-7232-4c3d-b7cb-5bba0e3130db" CreationDate="2020-03-20T21:20:07.997" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link, additional clarity of title and body text" Text="A few weeks ago I bought a Lenovo [Z50-70][1] laptop (with i7-4510U). I'm very happy with this notebook. It is super fast and has a great graphics card (for how I use it). But there is only a slow 11b/g/n WiFi card, so no 5GHz band.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this specification][2] for the WiFi card:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; One of the following, configurable by model:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 b/g/n, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	11 ac,1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xD;&#xA;&gt; •	Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon [sells an Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160][3] card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How do I know if this card fits? Will it be compatible with the antenna of the notebook ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you tell my how to look this up, or if this card will work ? Maybe you have a hint for some other WiFi cards ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcsupport.lenovo.com/us/en/products/laptops-and-netbooks/lenovo-z-series-laptops/lenovo-z50-70&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://psref.lenovo.com/PSREFUploadFile%5CSys/PDF/Lenovo%20Laptops/Lenovo%20Z50/Lenovo_Z50-70_spec.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOS19E6?keywords=Intel%20Dual%20Band%20Wireless-AC%2031607&amp;qid=1445501945&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_2&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45772" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="dd966477-7232-4c3d-b7cb-5bba0e3130db" CreationDate="2020-03-20T21:20:07.997" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link, additional clarity of title and body text" Text="WLAN-Card for Lenovo Z50-70 laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45773" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="dd966477-7232-4c3d-b7cb-5bba0e3130db" CreationDate="2020-03-20T21:20:07.997" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 631 edit id of 1037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45774" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13068" RevisionGUID="65ce0cc6-ea9c-444d-afaa-8ae70435d2bd" CreationDate="2020-03-20T22:33:24.060" UserId="9825" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="Your laptop's [hardware manual][1] and [user guide][2] show no expansion slot for a [PC Card][3] WiFi Adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, replacing the factory-installed internal Mini-PCIe card with a Mini-PCIe card with is 2.4 / 5 GHz capable is a reasonable choice. You may also consider adding an external WiFi device, such as a USB-attached WiFi 5GHz adapter if you are reticent to open the laptop, but, truly, it's easy to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've replaced many of that model with no problem. It will fit and the antenna connections are the same as the previous card. Pages 39-40 of your [hardware manual][1] provide specific illustrated instructions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/lenovo_g_z_50_series_hmm.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/lenovo_g40_g50_z40_z50_ug_english.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_Card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13098" RevisionGUID="d76599b1-828d-46b6-8f56-efc8c880b5b1" CreationDate="2020-03-20T22:42:06.503" UserId="9825" Text="Q: *What are cheap and good quality manufacturers? (I don't need brand power.) In my opinion, Intel and AMD are equal in quality. Intel has a higher idea.* There are three major CPU manufacturers on the market today: Intel, AMD, and whoever is making [RISC/ARM processors][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although RISC is known to have a Windows port in development, it is not readily available, so that brings us back to Intel and AMD. Both of them make CPUs of high quality which can last so long, they will go completely obsolete before they fail, if there's no physical abuse of the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: *How long is the life of the CPU? Or how many years should I buy a new one?* [Many years to decades][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, we're talking about the CPU chip here, not any other component of a PC.  That's what you asked about.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reduced_instruction_set_computer#Use_of_RISC_architectures&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smallbusiness.chron.com/long-processors-last-71800.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45777" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13098" RevisionGUID="a96d9f72-1e2e-42f2-89c6-bc16bcb2ac1a" CreationDate="2020-03-20T22:48:36.823" UserId="9825" Comment="added 291 characters in body" Text="Q: *What are cheap and good quality manufacturers? (I don't need brand power.) In my opinion, Intel and AMD are equal in quality. Intel has a higher idea.* There are three major CPU manufacturers on the market today: Intel, AMD, and whoever is making [RISC/ARM processors][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although RISC is known to have a Windows port in development, it is not readily available, so that brings us back to Intel and AMD. Both of them make CPUs of high quality which can last so long, they will go completely obsolete before they fail, if there's no physical abuse of the CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to Cheapness, Intel and AMD are not in the Cheap business, but they have stayed in business, demonstrating Quality. The price/performance ratio of Intel and AMD CPUs are carefully tracked in the computer trade press, and you must draw your own conclusion as to which is a better buy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q: *How long is the life of the CPU? Or how many years should I buy a new one?* [Many years to decades][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, we're talking about the [CPU][3] chip here, not any other component of a PC.  That's what you asked about. The other components of a PC drastically affect the price and performance of a system, so focusing on just the CPU may be counterproductive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reduced_instruction_set_computer#Use_of_RISC_architectures&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smallbusiness.chron.com/long-processors-last-71800.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_processing_unit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13092" RevisionGUID="8afe641f-6ff8-40eb-820e-96fa3160122a" CreationDate="2020-03-21T01:39:51.223" UserId="9825" Comment="added 146 characters in body" Text="The [Cosmo Communicator][2] (top) and [Gemini PDA][1] (bottom) offer you a choice of Android or Linux, and have quite a bit more for you than JioPhones. A colleague just received the Cosmo and is very happy with its build quality.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Cosmo Communicator][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Gemini PDA][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.www3.planetcom.co.uk/gemini-pda&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.planetcom.co.uk/products/cosmo-communicator&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyxKv.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eynjo.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13101" RevisionGUID="1dfefd1b-22eb-4e97-844c-7b16b0c71e31" CreationDate="2020-03-21T18:49:38.857" UserId="9825" Text="This post explains how the poster created a [four-lane board he's selling][1] to double throughput, and also provided a lot of [technical background][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [seller of Pi cameras][3] may also have useful gear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.circuitvalley.com/2020/02/diy-imx219-4-lane-mipi-breakout-board-raspberry-pi-camera-fpga-4-lane-mipi-csi.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.circuitvalley.com/2020/02/imx219-camera-mipi-csi-receiver-fpga-lattice-raspberry-pi-camera.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.camera-module.com/product/raspberrypicameramod/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45799" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="b02fa15e-3234-4a9c-9b6a-0c99e9f05da2" CreationDate="2020-03-22T07:52:28.267" UserId="5758" Text="I have an MBP for work. I want to have a dedicated development environment for private projects to not mess up my work setup. Also, I wanna run Linux (just Ubuntu something).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MBP is currently connected via USB C 3.1 to a display featuring a USB hub providing mouse and keyboard connectivity. The nice thing here is, of course, that I only need to connect one single USB C cable to have these things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - video signal&#xD;&#xA; - power supply&#xD;&#xA; - connection to keyboard and mouse via USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in a sense, it replaces a docking station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First I thought about just buying a Dell XPS 13. I mean it runs Linux natively and has USB C 3.1. So I could just go ahead and switch between the MBP and the Dell. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I thought, why would I even need a laptop. I have an older notebook at home and a mini PC would be just enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, is there a mini PC (up to 900 Euro) out there with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mandatory**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Video signal via USB C 3.1 DP (need to handle QHD 60Hz)&#xD;&#xA; - Able to run Ubuntu out of the box&#xD;&#xA; - Decent hardware for smooth development&#xD;&#xA; - Available for EU (shipment and power supply)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Kinda mandatory**, but not a deal-breaker &quot;in case&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Power supply via USB C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**, but optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - VESA mountable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45800" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="b02fa15e-3234-4a9c-9b6a-0c99e9f05da2" CreationDate="2020-03-22T07:52:28.267" UserId="5758" Text="USB C 3.1 Mini PC capable of running Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45801" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="b02fa15e-3234-4a9c-9b6a-0c99e9f05da2" CreationDate="2020-03-22T07:52:28.267" UserId="5758" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45805" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13104" RevisionGUID="fb34b50e-8060-459c-87cd-9381901b0205" CreationDate="2020-03-22T10:04:13.730" UserId="14541" Text="I have 100 Mbps broadband plan. I want to limit it to 1 Mbps for guest network so that streaming and other things would work smoothly on my main network. Which router is suitable for me(in India)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45806" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13104" RevisionGUID="fb34b50e-8060-459c-87cd-9381901b0205" CreationDate="2020-03-22T10:04:13.730" UserId="14541" Text="Need suggestion for WiFi router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45807" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13104" RevisionGUID="fb34b50e-8060-459c-87cd-9381901b0205" CreationDate="2020-03-22T10:04:13.730" UserId="14541" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45808" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="c5cae9d1-074a-4bc9-a99f-a8afd9f181a0" CreationDate="2020-03-22T10:40:19.567" UserId="5758" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="I have an MBP for work. I want to have a dedicated development environment for private projects to not mess up my work setup. Also, I wanna run Linux (just Ubuntu something).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MBP is currently connected via USB C 3.1 to a display featuring a USB hub providing mouse and keyboard connectivity. The nice thing here is, of course, that I only need to connect one single USB C cable to have these things:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - video signal&#xD;&#xA; - power supply&#xD;&#xA; - connection to keyboard and mouse via USB hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, in a sense, it replaces a docking station.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First I thought about just buying a Dell XPS 13. I mean it runs Linux natively and has USB C 3.1. So I could just go ahead and switch between the MBP and the Dell. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I thought, why would I even need a laptop. I have an older notebook at home and a mini PC would be just enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL;DR&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Long story short, is there a mini PC (up to 900 Euro) out there with the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mandatory**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Video signal via USB C 3.1 DP (need to handle QHD 60Hz)&#xD;&#xA; - Able to run Ubuntu out of the box&#xD;&#xA; - Decent hardware for smooth development&#xD;&#xA; - Available for EU (shipment and power supply)&#xD;&#xA; - Wifi and Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Kinda mandatory**, but not a deal-breaker &quot;in case&quot;:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Power supply via USB C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**, but optional:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - VESA mountable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45814" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13107" RevisionGUID="ccfd24ee-3502-4e19-a20f-1580c0a5abca" CreationDate="2020-03-22T17:02:34.113" UserId="14544" Text="I want to meassure [Earth’s magnetic field][1]. I want to create a chart with strenght of this field and observe how it is changing each day and compare those details to some global records. My question is **what kind of meter/device** I should buy and where to buy it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;During my research I think I should buy **deutrometer** but I am not sure. Thank you for your advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earth%27s_magnetic_field" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45815" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13107" RevisionGUID="ccfd24ee-3502-4e19-a20f-1580c0a5abca" CreationDate="2020-03-22T17:02:34.113" UserId="14544" Text="How to measure Earth’s magnetic field?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45816" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13107" RevisionGUID="ccfd24ee-3502-4e19-a20f-1580c0a5abca" CreationDate="2020-03-22T17:02:34.113" UserId="14544" Text="&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45817" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13108" RevisionGUID="7df5b622-43be-4799-a821-1c32366aa882" CreationDate="2020-03-22T18:05:10.643" UserId="14544" Text="I am looking for a proper and recommended device to change [**musical tuning**][1] in the fly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's say that I want some kind of music corrector connected to my home sound system and re-tune music playing at my home from `440 hz` into `432 hz` or `417 hz`. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any good solution to do that? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the name of this kind of device and where to buy it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that I can use some software (for example [**Audacity**][2]) to change music frequency but I don't want to do that manually - I want to do that with some device connected to TV, speakers, etc..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for all you answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musical_tuning&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.audacityteam.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45818" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13108" RevisionGUID="7df5b622-43be-4799-a821-1c32366aa882" CreationDate="2020-03-22T18:05:10.643" UserId="14544" Text="Hardware device to change musical tuning in the fly" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45819" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13108" RevisionGUID="7df5b622-43be-4799-a821-1c32366aa882" CreationDate="2020-03-22T18:05:10.643" UserId="14544" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45822" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11450" RevisionGUID="a2ec0f59-23d0-4557-bfed-7d3634e27fe2" CreationDate="2020-03-23T12:02:25.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13110" RevisionGUID="1ee536ee-3110-4c7a-9e9c-4fbae09966d1" CreationDate="2020-03-23T14:11:50.670" UserId="1410" Text="I would personally go for ESP32. With WiFi &amp; BT for US $4 to 5. [Here](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808772590.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.50a177b27kSYIz) is one for less than $3, including P &amp; P.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can afford $30, then you can get [2 @ ESP32 LoRo boards](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000025670342.html), where LoRa means Long Range and is about 15km, line of sight. That is just the first pair I found; I am sure that I bought a pair more cheaply. Those may cost more because then have a display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $15 or less, you can get an [ESP32 with camera](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006265740.html). Some with Passive InfraRed detector, to knwo when a person stands in front of them (body heat, many not be 100% accurate). Some with microphone &amp; speaker, [$20 with housing](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000329886104.html).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With that, you can make a great project, to replace the [Ring doorbell](https://eu.ring.com/). When someone rings your doorbell, you can view the camera, even video-conference, with your smartphone. This is on my list of projects to do, but I am a software guy, and you don't say if you prefer soft or hard-ware projects.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am not a hardware guy, I love the [Seeed Grove system](https://www.seeedstudio.com/grove.html) with about 300 sensors and motors, etc From about $2 to $20, which are Plug &amp; Play - no soldering required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you like that idea, look at [M5Stack](https://m5stack.com/), which can be bought on their site, or [from Ali Express](https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;initiative_id=SB_20200323054618&amp;origin=y&amp;SearchText=m5stack).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also have a wrist strap, for wrist-mounted projects&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a [Grove Connector GPS module for $15](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000494209347.html), which can be used for many projects. Just add imagination.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not get ESP826, as the ESP32  replaces it, unless you have a special requirement, or don't need the WiFi / BT connectivity.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only drawback is, like many MCUs, debugging is only by printing to the serial port. I could only find one ESP32 dev board with on board debugger, the [ESP-WROVER-KIT-VB ](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952455444.html). It costs $45v (ouch!), but has that on-board debugger, to allow you to set breakpoints and examine the call stack &amp; variables, which is  a ***must*** for me as a professional software developer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For an IDE, use [PlatformIO](https://platformio.org/) with [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Costly, ***but*** it has a large display. Take a look at it [playing Doom](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb_JFDa0AIo) and tell me that you aren't impressed ;-)  [The code is on GitHub](https://github.com/espressif/esp32-doom)&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already written more than I planned to, so please give us a budget and tell us what you want to do, especially if it is more soft or hard-ware based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you value a debugger, the ST Micro boards are good. They are perhaps more &quot;professional&quot; than hobbyist, so slightly more expensive. The [STM32WB](https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32wb-series.html) has BT &amp; WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the [BBC Micro:Bit](https://microbit.org/) is about $10, with BT, but no WiFi and on-board debugger (I have a shield that accepts Grove Connectors).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And that's before we get started with AdaFruit !!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will stop here in case you update your question ;-)&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOI9y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45825" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="5cc667b1-99f9-4729-afc8-b976a0ee057c" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:22:37.307" UserId="9825" Comment="add reference web link, fix grammar" Text="I want to upgrade my Lenovo [Thinkpad x220][1] with an SSD, but I'm not sure how much storage capacity I should target, maybe around 200-300 GB should be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What product do you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd015812" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45826" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12846" RevisionGUID="5cc667b1-99f9-4729-afc8-b976a0ee057c" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:22:37.307" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14329 edit id of 1033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45827" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13111" RevisionGUID="eb0c5205-eabb-4ad1-ba6f-47ab32351e6b" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:31:19.013" UserId="9825" Text="Acquire an iPhone and the [xSensor][1] app cited in this [Wired article][2], as that app measures the ambient magnetic field on all three axes. Then, log the results periodically. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xsensor/id345145166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wired.com/2014/01/measure-magnetic-field/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13112" RevisionGUID="81b50734-3eeb-4018-82db-4cf0f83610e0" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:37:50.260" UserId="9825" Text="Multiple [Intel NUCs][1] meet all those specifications, except for the power supply by USB-C (they all include their own power supply). Intel themselves confirms [QHD compatibility][2] on at least one model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/boards-kits/nuc/nuc-family-overview.html?&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forums.intel.com/s/question/0D70P0000068WtMSAU/nuc6cayh-to-qhd-monitor?language=en_US" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45829" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13113" RevisionGUID="658cca04-cabb-47f0-9f12-731061741a8f" CreationDate="2020-03-23T17:52:13.483" UserId="9825" Text="Standalone devices like the [TC_Helicon][1] which can adjust pitch to the accuracy you specify are studio devices, designed to fit into a 19&quot; rack mount frame. You'd need to interface them between the audio source and your amplifier, if your amplifier supports that. They will all be more expensive than used PC running tone adjustment apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VoiceLiveR--tc-helicon-voicelive-rack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13114" RevisionGUID="a418e3ab-205a-46f8-b97b-736e3e2442d5" CreationDate="2020-03-23T18:48:04.377" UserId="14548" Text="Based on this topic's answers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://superuser.com/questions/1535127/hardware-shopping-can-all-m-key-slot-work-with-nvme#1535127&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am pretty sure that my Laptop do not accepts M.2 NVMe SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to install an 1TB M.2 Sata III SSD,&#xD;&#xA;Which one do you suggest to buy? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can spend around R$ 800,00 (brazilian).&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45831" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13114" RevisionGUID="a418e3ab-205a-46f8-b97b-736e3e2442d5" CreationDate="2020-03-23T18:48:04.377" UserId="14548" Text="Hardware shopping: What M.2 SSD should I buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45832" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13114" RevisionGUID="a418e3ab-205a-46f8-b97b-736e3e2442d5" CreationDate="2020-03-23T18:48:04.377" UserId="14548" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45833" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13111" RevisionGUID="1ad1fdc4-1c5a-474f-8176-4c27e3e6e42f" CreationDate="2020-03-23T20:51:27.720" UserId="9825" Comment="added 222 characters in body" Text="Acquire an iPhone and the [xSensor][1] app cited in this [Wired article][2], or an Android phone with three-axis magnetic sensors (note: Not all Android phones do have three-axis magnetic sensors) and an app like [Physics Toolbox Magnetometer][3] as those apps measure the ambient magnetic field on all three axes. Then, log the results periodically. The [ARRL][4] does confirm [they change frequently][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xsensor/id345145166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wired.com/2014/01/measure-magnetic-field/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.android.physicstoolboxmagnetometer&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Radio_Relay_League&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.arrl.org/the-sun-the-earth-the-ionosphere" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13113" RevisionGUID="8845b6ea-3b5a-4e13-a957-55127ff46ba9" CreationDate="2020-03-23T21:07:40.483" UserId="9825" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="Standalone *pitch adjuster* devices like the [TC_Helicon][1] which can adjust pitch to the accuracy you specify are studio devices, designed to fit into a 19&quot; rack mount frame. You'd need to interface them between the audio source and your amplifier, if your amplifier supports that. They will all be more expensive than used PC running tone adjustment apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VoiceLiveR--tc-helicon-voicelive-rack" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45838" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13116" RevisionGUID="67cc2c56-a933-4cd6-8e9e-cd15243c1b7f" CreationDate="2020-03-23T21:17:21.233" UserId="9825" Text="You need a router approved for use in your locale with  [Quality of Service][1] (QoS), sometimes referred to as *Internet Access Policy*, features [introduced in this article][2].  Since I am not in India, my shopping results won't tell me what's available to you, but if you search for &quot;WiFi router Internet Access Policy&quot; or WiFi router Quality of Service&quot;, you will see what's available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://itstillworks.com/use-router-limit-peoples-internet-usage-1431.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45840" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13111" RevisionGUID="41cfff20-e78b-4a5e-be24-5b7a0a3ac35e" CreationDate="2020-03-23T22:43:28.710" UserId="9825" Comment="added 110 characters in body" Text="The device you cited is spendy; if your budget does not permit acquiring it, there are alternatives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could get an iPhone and the [xSensor][1] app cited in this [Wired article][2], or an Android phone with three-axis magnetic sensors (note: Not all Android phones do have three-axis magnetic sensors) and an app like [Physics Toolbox Magnetometer][3] as those apps measure the ambient magnetic field on all three axes. Then, log the results periodically. The [ARRL][4] does confirm [they change frequently][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xsensor/id345145166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wired.com/2014/01/measure-magnetic-field/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.android.physicstoolboxmagnetometer&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Radio_Relay_League&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.arrl.org/the-sun-the-earth-the-ionosphere" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45841" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="515a30e3-b2e7-49f9-9fcf-056f3fb465a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T00:24:58.650" UserId="14551" Text="I was searching for usb C male connector to do the following thing: I would like to use my Qi tag charger and at the same time have one usb port free for using it with the regular charger without unplugging the Qi tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For that, I will need a usb splitter but I can't find a good splitter. I found one for usb C audio and usb C charging and I remember some kind of connectors that have inside a female and at the same time they were male. I could solder the Qi tag to this splitter and it may be ok" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45842" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="515a30e3-b2e7-49f9-9fcf-056f3fb465a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T00:24:58.650" UserId="14551" Text="Usb C male to 2 female inside" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45843" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="515a30e3-b2e7-49f9-9fcf-056f3fb465a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T00:24:58.650" UserId="14551" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45844" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="d686dbeb-7036-4a19-bb3d-7445869f91a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T09:40:04.127" UserId="14553" Text="I am looking to replace a ASUS RT-AC1200G+ router.&#xD;&#xA;Currently, it is supporting around 20 wireless devices in my office.&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to support more than 50 wireless devices in my office in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a good metric to look at for wireless routers to determine what is the maximum number of concurrent users it can support? Or is there an assumed limit of &quot;X&quot; number of devices regardless of brand and model? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45845" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="d686dbeb-7036-4a19-bb3d-7445869f91a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T09:40:04.127" UserId="14553" Text="What should I be looking out for in a wireless router to support a large number of users/devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45846" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="d686dbeb-7036-4a19-bb3d-7445869f91a6" CreationDate="2020-03-24T09:40:04.127" UserId="14553" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13083" RevisionGUID="20c09cc3-f5a5-4570-9ac9-e9509ec0687c" CreationDate="2020-03-24T14:16:27.140" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web links" Text="So I came across this great [article][1] about getting 660 frames per second from a Raspberry PI and its default camera, and was wondering is there any way to crank the setup up with possibly higher frame rate camera and faster processing hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand there should be a [MIPI][2] [Camera Serial Interface][3] ([more][4]) (and [more][5]) on both camera and recording device, and the rest is just a software issue. I did some search and found something like [this][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So asking for any research advice, maybe there are some specific keywords I can search for, or maybe some brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hackaday.com/2019/08/10/660-fps-raspberry-pi-video-captures-the-moment-in-extreme-slo-mo/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.electronicdesign.com/technologies/communications/article/21799475/understanding-mipi-alliance-interface-specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_Serial_Interface&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://www.camera-module.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-mipi-csi-2-vs-csi-3.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20190926005230/en/New-Version-Widely-Camera-Imaging-Interface%E2%80%94MIPI-CSI-2%E2%80%94Designed&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMX307-MIPI-CSI-2-2MP-Star-Light-ISP-Camera-for-Raspberry-Pi-and-Jetson-Nano/293496855693?hash=item4455c69c8d:m:mKxwJQTODRxnqP7tTL_u-7A" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45848" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13083" RevisionGUID="20c09cc3-f5a5-4570-9ac9-e9509ec0687c" CreationDate="2020-03-24T14:16:27.140" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14528 edit id of 1046" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45854" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="20c68d64-fcb4-47cd-a95d-6818e8f44d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:14:51.747" UserId="14557" Text="If I bought an SSD for my 2011 MacBook Pro would it take full advantage of a newer SSD say like a 1 TB drive? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45855" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="20c68d64-fcb4-47cd-a95d-6818e8f44d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:14:51.747" UserId="14557" Text="2011 MacBook Pro and SSD, is it worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45856" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="20c68d64-fcb4-47cd-a95d-6818e8f44d7d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:14:51.747" UserId="14557" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45857" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="73261bb2-5334-4fb5-9749-fb291af616df" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:58:05.130" UserId="14557" Comment="added 39 characters in body; edited title" Text="If I bought an internal SSD to replace current hard drive for my 2011 MacBook Pro would it take full advantage of a newer SSD say like a 1 TB drive? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45858" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="73261bb2-5334-4fb5-9749-fb291af616df" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:58:05.130" UserId="14557" Comment="added 39 characters in body; edited title" Text="2011 MacBook Pro and internal SSD, is it worth it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13121" RevisionGUID="794f335c-a7ea-4e39-9061-4931ec18571a" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:09:13.037" UserId="14557" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="If I bought an internal SSD to replace current hard drive for my 2011 MacBook Pro would it take full advantage of a newer SSD say like a 1 TB drive? &#xA;&#xA;[Specs from Apple][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.apple.com/kb/SP645?locale=en_US" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13122" RevisionGUID="0286af1e-051f-43f5-a788-48ca3324cb93" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:16:37.007" UserId="14280" Text="No, you would not see a maximum speed difference between an external HDD versus an external SSD due to the USB ports limited to a maximum of 60 megabytes per second (or 480 megabit per second). You may see a quicker response time (or latency), but this is in milliseconds and would be very negligible to the average user. I would buy an external HDD because they are cheaper per gigabyte.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want suggestions on storage, my favorite external HDD brands are Western Digital and Seagate. They are reliable HDD's that are loved by consumers. If you don't want to spend that much for an external HDD, Toshiba makes reliable HDD's and are common to see in laptops.   &#xD;&#xA;If you want SSD's, my favorite external SSD brands are Western Digital, Samsung, Seagate, SanDisk, and Crucial. You don't have to stick with these brands, but as long as they are rated high and have NAND Cashe you should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13122" RevisionGUID="5383a2a9-058e-4de1-ae95-4b91f838e13d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:22:53.050" UserId="14280" Comment="added 384 characters in body" Text="No, you would not see a maximum speed difference between an external HDD versus an external SSD due to the USB ports limited to a maximum of 60 megabytes per second (or 480 megabit per second). You may see a quicker response time (or latency), but this is in milliseconds and would be very negligible to the average user. I would buy an external HDD because they are cheaper per gigabyte, but if you want a rugged drive then SSD's are better because they don't have an arm that reads/writes the data. If this is just a home laptop that doesn't move often or ever, then go with an HDD. In my opinion, there is still no speed difference between SSD's and HDD's if you are using USB 3.0 or higher ports (These are typically in laptops or computers made around 2015 or newer).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want suggestions on storage, my favorite external HDD brands are Western Digital and Seagate. They are reliable HDD's that are loved by consumers. If you don't want to spend that much for an external HDD, Toshiba makes reliable HDD's and are common to see in laptops.   &#xD;&#xA;If you want SSD's, my favorite external SSD brands are Western Digital, Samsung, Seagate, SanDisk, and Crucial. You don't have to stick with these brands, but as long as they are rated high and have NAND Cashe you should be fine.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45863" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="aa6d52a3-8b20-4c08-a1c8-c9aaf4dafc23" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:54:21.293" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link, grammar" Text="I want to replace an [ASUS RT-AC1200G+][1] router.&#xD;&#xA;Currently, it is supporting around 20 wireless devices in my office.&#xD;&#xA;I am looking to support more than 50 wireless devices in my office in the near future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a good metric to look at for wireless routers to determine what is the maximum number of concurrent users it can support? Or is there an assumed limit of &quot;X&quot; number of devices regardless of brand and model? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/Networking/RT-AC1200G-plus/specifications/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45864" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="aa6d52a3-8b20-4c08-a1c8-c9aaf4dafc23" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:54:21.293" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link, grammar" Text="What criteria to use to pick a wireless router for a large number of users/devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45865" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13118" RevisionGUID="aa6d52a3-8b20-4c08-a1c8-c9aaf4dafc23" CreationDate="2020-03-25T03:54:21.293" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14553 edit id of 1048" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45867" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="14b9a181-60e2-42a4-a75b-02b8410ed245" CreationDate="2020-03-25T08:03:05.463" UserId="-1" Comment="93" />
  <row Id="45870" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13124" RevisionGUID="f7c66ab9-05df-4f10-a21b-a06941565175" CreationDate="2020-03-25T15:45:35.787" UserId="9825" Text="There's no standard assumption for the number of users, for that's dependent on the processing power of the router and many other factors. This is a complex subject which is why there are WiFi [industry certifications][1] for [admins][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your use case of 50+ users in an office with at most one gypsum wall, I believe a more powerful router with more processing power than the Broadcom BCM47189 and BCM43217 processors in your existing ASUS router would be desirable. Also, a new router should conform to the new [WiFi 6][3] [802.11ax][4] standard,  and be capable of security with [WPA2, WPA3][5], and 802.1X WPA [Enterprise][6] with a [RADIUS Server][7].  The latter may not be desirable now, but if it is later, you're prepared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cwnp.com/it-certifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.businessnewsdaily.com/10804-wireless-networking-certifications.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.wi-fi.org/discover-wi-fi/wi-fi-certified-6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.networkworld.com/article/3258807/what-is-80211ax-wi-fi-6-and-what-will-it-mean-for-80211ac.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access#EAP_extensions_under_WPA_and_WPA2_Enterprise&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RADIUS " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13125" RevisionGUID="f8bb0d45-295f-4d97-839c-eab885464c13" CreationDate="2020-03-25T16:10:54.653" UserId="9825" Text="There are many tutorials of good quality and reliability which address the issue of drive replacement for a version 8.1 second-generation 2011 MacBook Pro.  Many users have [found this to be a worthwhile upgrade][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May I suggest you look at the [guides on YouTube][2], starting with those from [iFixIt][3]? Those were very popular with the Mac team of the community computer rebuilding center I volunteered at for many years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every PC, MacBook, and MacBook Pro which was donated to us had is HDD or SSD replaced, wiped to milspec standard, and then reused in a different chassis to assure no user data ever fell into the hands of another user. The process is not daunting by any means. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Replacing the factory 5400 RPM HDD with a new SSD will not only improve performance, and reduce power consumption (and therefore reduce waste heat as well as prolong runtime on a battery charge), but the factory HDD is past its expected five year lifetime by now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to data migration, there are multiple drive cloning apps available which make the process practical. However, before you pick up the first tool, I would make a backup to an external drive, network-attached computer, or the cloud, and verify the backed up data matches the source; then, repeat the process to a different external drive or a different cloud provider.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Do NOT shop for an NVMe SSD as those are incompatible; you would want a SATA-III SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Drive%20in%20a%20MacBook%20Pro%208.1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=MacBook%20Pro%202011%20drive%20replacement&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ifixit.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13126" RevisionGUID="00587af8-b232-4ad2-8fa9-3d945f6f91bc" CreationDate="2020-03-25T16:22:56.380" UserId="14280" Text="I know in the US that the Netgear Nighthawk series allows for this and works well. I have a Netgear Nighthawk R7800, and that works a charm. We previously had a Netgear Nighthawk R6900P and that also worked a charm. These routers are quality routers but may be pricy in India.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend one of these:&#xD;&#xA;[Netgear Nighthawk R6700][1],&#xD;&#xA;[Netgear Nighthawk R6900P][2],&#xD;&#xA;[Netgear Nighthawk R7000P][3], or&#xD;&#xA;[Netgear Nighthawk R7800][4] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these will last long, well-rated in the US, reliable, user-friendly and have room for expansion. They'll cover a 3-story house well and even outside of the house.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want a mesh network (a series of small routers linked together), I would use the [Eero mesh system][5] they will cover .7 acres of land extremely well and if there are any slow-spots in the house/property, you can buy more than just one pack of three and hook it up. They are extremely user-friendly and easy to set up. The only issues with them are that you can't set them up with a computer, you must use the Eero app on an Android or iOS device, and you can't limit the speed on the guest network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B00R2AZLD2?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B07C65K9H9?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B01NA80JML?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-eero-mesh-WiFi-system-3-pack-/dp/B07WMLPSRL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=eero&amp;qid=1585153132&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45873" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13111" RevisionGUID="52c183fb-0fbf-4cbe-94b0-642ab2b1339d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:10:34.883" UserId="9825" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="The device you cited is spendy; if your budget does not permit acquiring it, there are alternatives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could get an iPhone and the [xSensor][1] app cited in this [Wired article][2], or an Android phone with three-axis magnetic sensors (note: Not all Android phones do have three-axis magnetic sensors) and an app like [Physics Toolbox Magnetometer][3] as those apps measure the ambient magnetic field on all three axes. Then, log the results periodically.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ARRL][4] does confirm [terrestial magnetic fields change frequently, BTW][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xsensor/id345145166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wired.com/2014/01/measure-magnetic-field/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.android.physicstoolboxmagnetometer&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Radio_Relay_League&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.arrl.org/the-sun-the-earth-the-ionosphere" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45874" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13107" RevisionGUID="96b01ecd-e936-40df-92ee-2d9269cbbe5d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:16:49.950" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling, web link" Text="I want to measure [Earth’s magnetic fields][1]. I want to chart the strength of these fields to observe how they change daily, and compare those details to  global records. My question is **what kind of meter/device** I should buy and where to buy it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;During my research I think I should buy a [deutrometer][2]  but I am not sure. Thank you for your advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earth%27s_magnetic_field&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://ritmindustry.com/catalog/measuring-instruments-for-electrostatic-fields/electrical-field-measuring-device-portable/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45875" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13107" RevisionGUID="96b01ecd-e936-40df-92ee-2d9269cbbe5d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:16:49.950" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14544 edit id of 1050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45876" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13111" RevisionGUID="09328abf-97ae-4ee4-89f8-4432f178c93c" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:16:54.800" UserId="9825" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="The device you cited is spendy; if your budget does not permit acquiring it, there are alternatives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could get an iPhone and the [xSensor][1] app cited in this [Wired article][2], or an Android phone with three-axis magnetic sensors (note: Not all Android phones do have three-axis magnetic sensors) and an app like [Physics Toolbox Magnetometer][3] as those apps measure the ambient magnetic field on all three axes. Then, log the results periodically. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd also suggest determining the accuracy of those historical records as a guide to how precise the measuring instrument must be. If the records you use as a baseline are not very accurate, spending a lot of money on a very precise meter may not be very useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ARRL][4] does confirm [terrestial magnetic fields change frequently, BTW][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xsensor/id345145166&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.wired.com/2014/01/measure-magnetic-field/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.android.physicstoolboxmagnetometer&amp;hl=en_US&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Radio_Relay_League&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: http://www.arrl.org/the-sun-the-earth-the-ionosphere" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45877" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13116" RevisionGUID="b9302f47-576d-4ee8-b3a3-a87ec555803c" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:18:44.547" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="You need a router approved for use in your locale with  [Quality of Service][1] (QoS), sometimes referred to as *Internet Access Policy*, features [introduced in this article][2].  Since I am not in India, my shopping results won't tell me what's available to you, but if you search for &quot;WiFi router Internet Access Policy&quot; or &quot;WiFi router Quality of Service&quot;, you will see what's available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_of_service&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://itstillworks.com/use-router-limit-peoples-internet-usage-1431.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13127" RevisionGUID="60eda681-a5b6-4e9a-b2e3-94c8770e83de" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:20:34.683" UserId="1410" Text="Similar to [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/762/good-printer-with-cheap-ink), but that is 5 years old and Canada based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a cheap all-in-one (print &amp; scan/copy) printer, USB connection (I don't mind paying an extra fiver for WiFi, but can live without it).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am thinking &quot;total cost of ownership&quot;, so want something that won't break the bank when it comes to buying refill ink.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must be deliverable, in the UK (owing to Corona virus lock-down), and soon (amazon seems to be de-prioritizing some ares, including tech, in favour of others, such as food).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to something printed, posted and received in the UK by the end of the month." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45879" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13127" RevisionGUID="60eda681-a5b6-4e9a-b2e3-94c8770e83de" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:20:34.683" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap all-in-one wifi printer with cheap ink (deliverable soon in the UK)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45880" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13127" RevisionGUID="60eda681-a5b6-4e9a-b2e3-94c8770e83de" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:20:34.683" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13124" RevisionGUID="28ebb3dc-b704-4d94-85e9-d3c67051308d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T17:21:15.413" UserId="9825" Comment="added 121 characters in body" Text="There's no standard assumption for the number of users, for that's dependent on the processing power of the router and many other factors. This is a complex subject which is why there are WiFi [industry certifications][1] for [admins][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given your use case of 50+ users in an office with at most one gypsum wall, I believe a more powerful router with more processing power than the Broadcom BCM47189 and BCM43217 processors in your existing ASUS router would be desirable. Also, a new router should conform to the new [WiFi 6][3] [802.11ax][4] standard,  and be capable of security with [WPA2, WPA3][5], and 802.1X WPA [Enterprise][6] with a [RADIUS Server][7].  The latter may not be desirable now, but if you find later on you need that, you're prepared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can expand the network coverage with additional Wireless Access Points, or another router, later if you need to. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cwnp.com/it-certifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.businessnewsdaily.com/10804-wireless-networking-certifications.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.wi-fi.org/discover-wi-fi/wi-fi-certified-6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.networkworld.com/article/3258807/what-is-80211ax-wi-fi-6-and-what-will-it-mean-for-80211ac.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access#EAP_extensions_under_WPA_and_WPA2_Enterprise&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RADIUS " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45883" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13125" RevisionGUID="81f8a43a-f3ac-4383-8e9c-52079bac4e49" CreationDate="2020-03-25T18:55:19.353" UserId="9825" Comment="added 55 characters in body" Text="There are many tutorials of good quality and reliability which address the issue of drive replacement for a version 8.1 second-generation 2011 MacBook Pro.  Many users have [found this to be a worthwhile upgrade][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May I suggest you look at the [guides on YouTube][2], starting with those from [iFixIt][3]? Those were very popular with the Mac team of the [community computer rebuilding/reuse center][4] I volunteered at for many years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every PC, MacBook, and MacBook Pro which was donated to us had is HDD or SSD replaced, wiped to milspec standard, and then reused in a different chassis to assure no user data ever fell into the hands of another user. The process is not daunting by any means. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Replacing the factory 5400 RPM HDD with a new SSD will not only improve performance, and reduce power consumption (and therefore reduce waste heat as well as prolong runtime on a battery charge), but the factory HDD is past its expected five year lifetime by now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to data migration, there are multiple drive cloning apps available which make the process practical. However, before you pick up the first tool, I would make a backup to an external drive, network-attached computer, or the cloud, and verify the backed up data matches the source; then, repeat the process to a different external drive or a different cloud provider.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Do NOT shop for an NVMe SSD as those are incompatible; you would want a SATA-III SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Drive%20in%20a%20MacBook%20Pro%208.1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=MacBook%20Pro%202011%20drive%20replacement&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ifixit.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.freegeek.org/who-we-are" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45884" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13128" RevisionGUID="2136ce55-41ff-4e83-b1c0-69fbc71c7a32" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:01:15.170" UserId="9825" Text="I've been happy with my Brother monochrome printer/scanner/copier after finding a good review at [BoingBoing.net][1], and mine only cost me $80 in Yankee pesos.  Here's [a link for shopping][2]: I regret I can't force that to UK only, but I have read of many UK users of these printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Brother%20USB%20monochrome%20scanner%20printer&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,root_cat:539072,pdtr0:959658%7C3639070,pdtr1:960877%7C960878,pdtr2:960893%7C960896,cat:500106,pdtr3:960880%7C960881,init_ar:SgeyBAQIwPMg&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi41d6fp7boAhXPHDQIHV_iC-UQsysIjBIoAA&amp;biw=1436&amp;bih=648" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45885" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13129" RevisionGUID="13505ed0-ba3c-47b3-83ab-2dff9f1359ad" CreationDate="2020-03-12T09:00:10.393" UserDisplayName="niran90" Text="Firstly, I am a software developer that has been delegated the task of finding a UPS for my team's 20-core test-suite machine. It is powered by a 1kW-rated Corsair RM1000X power unit. I live in South Africa where, as of last year, we have been having regular power outages. My team would like to invest in a UPS that can keep the machine running through the longest possible power outage (~4hrs worst case). Even though it is a dedicated test-suite machine, we regularly use it to run medium-sized simulations (we're a computational fluid dynamics research group) overnight. It is mainly for this purpose that we would like to ensure that the machine can run through a power outage, uninterrupted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been doing research on how to select a UPS, but I am very confused about the difference between the W-rating and VA-rating that's given for all UPSs, and I'm unsure how to select one that will keep the machine running for as long as ~4hrs. Can anyone advise me on this? Is a UPS what I should be looking for in the first place? Or should I be looking at inverters instead (if so, please recommend how I should select an inverter too)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45886" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13129" RevisionGUID="13505ed0-ba3c-47b3-83ab-2dff9f1359ad" CreationDate="2020-03-12T09:00:10.393" UserDisplayName="niran90" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;ups&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45887" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13129" RevisionGUID="82ed6455-7c0c-40e3-a44e-6f99be88d58a" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf" />
  <row Id="45888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13129" RevisionGUID="13505ed0-ba3c-47b3-83ab-2dff9f1359ad" CreationDate="2020-03-12T09:00:10.393" UserDisplayName="niran90" Text="Can someone help me identify the specifications of a UPS for a 20-core high-performance computer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45889" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13131" RevisionGUID="d9323c48-063b-489a-8d4b-96bbeeedd716" CreationDate="2020-03-13T06:14:14.930" UserId="9683" Text="TLDR: In this ***modern*** age, the most affordable practical bulletproof &quot;won't get fired for recommending this&quot; solution is a Tesla PowerWall or competitor.  The &quot;cheap at all costs&quot; solution is a bank of batteries and a DC PSU (or if the server doesn't support that, an inverter).   Gen and UPS solutions are *simply not made for this*, and force-fitting them will result in an ugly, high-maintenance misfit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You don't want a UPS, per se&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;**Because your requirement is for a 4-hour runtime**, and that is not what UPSs do.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact, you really need to throw the book out, because new tech is here that solves the problem much more artfully than enormous UPSs or hokey generators. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just look at the sizing of UPS's, as jonathanjo talks about - comparing their KW rating vs the number of minutes of power at that rating.   Most of them are sized for ~10 minutes of runtime at rating.  Just enough time for the bog-standard application of UPSs: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-  Ride for 20 sec. in case power comes right back (why shut down needlessly). Then, &#xD;&#xA;- signal the PC that it's **time to shut down**.  The PC then &#xD;&#xA; - stops accepting new connections &#xD;&#xA; - wraps up existing connections &#xD;&#xA; - flushes database writes&#xD;&#xA; - flushes disk cache&#xD;&#xA; - gives some seconds for hard drives to flush internal cache&#xD;&#xA; - completes an orderly shutdown. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**That is not what you want.**  You want to continue *business as usual* across an extended outage.  You need a completely different product family for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When you try to force a UPS solution, you find the only way you can  &quot;buy&quot; extended battery life is to get an insanely oversized inverter, and that's a game of diminishing returns, because bigger inverters have bigger standby losses, especially at a tiny fraction of rated load.  Like the 10kw, $7000 inverter discussed (as a bad fit) by jonathanjo. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, UPSs use cheap lead-acid batteries, that have poor service life, and regardless, **should not be dipped below about 30% DoD on a regular basis**. (DoD=Depth of Discharge; 0%=full 100%=stone dead and damaged) This is an unfortunate characteristic of lead-acid batteries.  So if the advertised 1KW runtime of the UPS is 13.3 hours, 30% happens at 4 hours. So you're actually looking for a 13.3 hour runtime, *in lead-acid*.  That is a huge and stupendously expensive battery to be changing every 3 years.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, UPSs are just wildly inappropriate here because of the long runtime. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 1980s era solution&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Is a genny, transfer switch, UPS to bridge the gap, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An automatic transfer switch detects the outage, calls for a generator to auto-start and spin up, then it automatically throws the transfer switch. However, this takes a minute or two, so you still need a UPS in the mix to carry the system for that time.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a quality auto-startable generator with automatic transfer switch, wired in properly into a subpanel and all that, you're north of US$5000; and you *still* need a UPS also (albeit a modest one). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And worse, you now have 2 batteries to maintain: the UPS battery, and the generator start battery.  Another failure point is fuel: if someone failed to top up the tank after the last time, you either get no-start or it quits after an hour. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's much messier if you try to pinch pennies with a manual generator. Now your UPS must have a much longer battery - 30 minutes to give the crews 5-15 minutes to get the generator fueled, started, extension cords run and the UPS plugged into it -- and still have time for an orderly server shutdown if that doesn't happen.  The longer the batteries must run, the more sensitive the UPS is to old lead-acid batteries with shrinking capacity.  It might be a good policy to prophylactically change the lead-acid batteries every year or 18 months.  SO we save some money but we spend more elsewhere. Ugly, ugly solution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All in all, I consider generators to be an expensive and/or messy solution. ***We only consider them because nothing better exists**, or to be more precise, existED*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The modern solution: commercial products&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;Tesla PowerWall and competitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When SuperStorm Sandy hit the American northeast, thousands of solar panel owners found out grid-tied solar inverters don't work when the grid is down. This lit off a variety of solutions for extended runtime off-grid backup power.  **These systems are designed *exactly* to provide low-draw (1kw-ish) loads for hours and hours**.  Which fits your use-case like a glove.  *These things are new, which is why they're not everyone's first recommendation (and also considered &quot;green&quot; which has a liberal tone which some find distasteful). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The flagship product, of course, is the Tesla PowerWall.  Let's take the new PowerWall 2, which tickets at US$7500 all-in, and has 13.5 kwh of power. So it'll run your 1kw load for (realistically) 11 hours.  That's too big. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try the original PowerWall for US$4000 all-in (cheaper still used), and get about 6 hours. Tesla has already &quot;de-rated&quot; the battery to avoid bottoming the lithium battery, so you can really get 6 hours reliably. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Now, remember that 10kw UPS that cost $7000 and only had a 2.5 hour runtime @ 1 KW (which did bottom the lead-acid battery, so really, only 40 minutes daily runtime)? LOL! This certainly illustrates what a misfit it was.  Simply the wrong tool for the job. Tesla goes 10 x longer for 1/2 the price, and is lithium to boot.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further, you can expect 15 years of useful use out of this battery, because Tesla has deep experience (and skin in the game, due to how Tesla car batteries are warranteed) at making lithium battery packs last a long time. The protective circuits are tip top. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course there are other manufacturers making PowerWall-like's. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's funny, PowerWalls and UPSs contain the same nuts and bolts (batteries+inverters+chargers)... **but they are sized *very* differently**.  That makes all the difference in the world. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By the way, I never mentioned solar panels; some of those systems will support bolting on a simple solar array.  That could stretch your runtime while grid is down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The modern solution: Homebrew on the cheap&#xD;&#xA;-&#xD;&#xA;The PC runs off batteries normally and constantly.  When available, grid power tops up batteries and feeds the PC.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first step here is see if you can obtain a low-voltage PSU for that server - one that intakes 12, 24, or 48 VDC from a battery - the kind you use in DC-based server farms. If it does, then you can eliminate AC-DC conversion losses in both directions. Otherwise, you will need an inverter rated for continuous use, e.g. 2kw.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, you lay up a bank of batteries big enough for your needs.  You can go a couple of ways.  You can go with lithium arrays such as a 25V/220AH pack out of a Tesla Model S, typically $1500. That'll get you 5.5KWH, and since you can deep-dip lithiums down to 75% DoD, you can safely get 4 KWH out of this. Exactly what you need. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or, you can go lead-acid, remembering to derate for 30% DoD for daily use, so 13.3 KWH. Take a generic US$100 Interstate golf cart battery: 6 volts @ 210 AH = 1260 AH; ten of those and Bob's your uncle. **Needless to say, you acquire lead-acid batteries *locally***; *they are commodities available everywhere; shipping them is not even stupid*. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's it; that's your system; a server and a bank of batteries to power it. Except we add one more thing: a power supply/battery charger that replenishes it while the grid is up.   So when the grid is up (say: 3/4 of the time), the charger powers the inverter, and tops up the battery if it needs that.  When the power fails, the battery is *already* connected to the inverter/PC, and picks up the load seamlessly. The PC is not aware a change occurred. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;PC not knowing&quot; is worth some attention. You may want to add a circuit to warn the PC when it passes 50% DoD, so it can blast out a 15-minute warning to wrap up your work, then do an orderly shutdown as per section 1. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45890" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13131" RevisionGUID="99bf1dbc-70fe-41b5-b9c3-abd7cb53eacd" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf/485951#485951" />
  <row Id="45891" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13133" RevisionGUID="902c6ebf-0fee-4eab-9015-485ea164f978" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf/485824#485824" />
  <row Id="45892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13132" RevisionGUID="db71a7ef-bc0c-4ee1-a740-4db14f2143cc" CreationDate="2020-03-12T20:04:10.083" UserDisplayName="CCTO" Text="By StackExchange standards this is not a direct answer, but it's too involved for a comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd opt for a much stronger statement than &quot;you might be better served with a generator&quot;. UPS units for computers are always intended to cover only short outages, until a generator ramps up to stable operation. This could be as little as 30 seconds, but seldom longer than a couple of minutes. Or, just long enough for a controlled, safe shutdown, probably automatically triggered when the UPS estimates a few minutes remaining runtime. Four hours is well beyond what a UPS is normally expected to carry a load. Ten to 30 minutes is a much more common range. Beyond that you will *definitely* need a unit that accepts extra batteries. That adds up-front cost, and bulk, and regular battery replacement costs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As others have said, if you really expect to maintain work during an outage (this is called &quot;business continuity&quot;) you need to keep all your network infrastructure, client machines and air-con running too. This is the norm for a commercial datacentre; rare in office environments. It's impractical with UPS units; it needs a generator, probably one tied into your building's electrical circuits. That's something your landlord's Facilities department, or Building Engineer, normally deals with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You might start with collecting stats on the last few months' worth of outages you've had. If 80% of them have been under 15 minutes, size your UPS for that kind of runtime, and set up automatic shutdown if the power remains off longer than that. But if you have hours-long outages regularly, and you really want to keep working through them, a generator infrastructure is the sensible approach.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further, if you're having frequent outages, choose an &quot;online&quot; model of UPS. These are wired so power is always being drawn from battery, which (while mains power is available) are constantly being recharged. The other kind, called &quot;standby&quot; or something else, have a switch that kicks in when the mains power quits, to begin drawing power from the battery. The issue is that these switches are rated for a surprisingly small number of operations. Where I work we do weekly generator tests, so the UPSs switch to battery and back every Wednesday. And those switches can fail in a year or two, 100 to 200 switching operations. (And regular generator tests are a *really* good idea.) Go with an online model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45893" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13132" RevisionGUID="fa526257-068e-44f3-82f2-583dd3de5129" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf/485909#485909" />
  <row Id="45894" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13134" RevisionGUID="8a63c892-20fe-44d9-9e22-dce091f52f91" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf/485819#485819" />
  <row Id="45895" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13133" RevisionGUID="9476e806-0142-4bfc-b8d2-b7864b09face" CreationDate="2020-03-12T10:47:51.830" UserDisplayName="jonathanjo" Text="There are a lot of things at play with the market for uninterruptible power supplies.  Most people who buy smaller ones have little knowledge, and just want a sense of security.  Correspondingly you have to be careful to interpret the marketing information appropriately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following are some notes and suggestions &quot;suitable for software engineers&quot;, which will get you close enough to some answers for your situation that you can then have a reasonable conversation with suppliers.  **Do not make a purchase or installation based solely on these notes.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Background&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Volta-Amps vs Watts**: The difference between VA and W can be complex and depends on the type of load.  But as a simplification for computer equipment you can use a power factor of 0.67, ie if your AC mains power is 240 VAC and you measure it at 4 A, you have 960 VA, which is approx 643 W.  (From APC documents.)  Some power supplies have a power factor as high as 0.99, such as this one from [HP][1], [thanks grahamj42]. You'll see that, either way, this a relatively small amount compared to the other headroom requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Online?** You need to distinguish between &quot;online&quot; and &quot;offline&quot; UPS: an online one feeds your computers with AC generated from its batteries, and constantly charges them when the mains AC when it's available.  An offline UPS switches between the mains AC and the AC generated from your batteries, perhaps taking 10 ms or so to do so.  The online variety is considered considerably superior for computers, probably essential for a server like you describe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Basic Scaling**.  If you have 1,000 W for 4 hours, you need 4,000 Wh.  A typical car battery is approx 500 Wh ([Wikipedia][2]), so your basic needs are *at least* eight car batteries worth of storage.  But note that four hours is considered a lot. [Thanks commenters for picking up my arithmetic errors.]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**BUT**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. UPS running time is extremely non-linear on load.&#xD;&#xA;2. A computer marked 1,000 W doesn't use anything like 1,000 W most of the time (for starting estimate call it 500 W, but this is really worth measuring.)&#xD;&#xA;3. A device marked 1,000 W may well use considerably more during immediate startup (for starting estimate call it 2,000 W)&#xD;&#xA;4. The batteries age and degrade as they do so (call it 50% at end of life)&#xD;&#xA;5. Large battery sets have their own issues (high-current DC cables, fire safety, etc)&#xD;&#xA;6. As soon as you have your server on UPS, you find you need your ethernet switches, your routers, your monitors, your desktops your fans and ... oh no ... your air conditioning.  Make sure you include everything you actually need.&#xD;&#xA;7. You are likely to trim your requirements once you see prices&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which means a 1,000 W computer needs a UPS which can briefly deliver 2,000 W, but we can estimate its running time at 500 W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because of the non-linearity, **most UPSs are specified by peak load, and have a load-vs-time calculator or graph**.  The following graphs show a 10 kVA UPS (curve A) and the same one with various additional batteries which give longer times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]  &#xD;&#xA;*From [APC datasheet][4]*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some Suggestions&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Battery Replacement** Do not buy a UPS without understanding that you are going to be replacing the batteries every few years.  Manufacturers typically say three to five years (APC [note][5].) but conditions in the field may well give you less.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Test, test, test** Do not rely on a UPS unless you test it.  If you don't test it you won't find out if everything that's supposed to be plugged into the UPS is actually plugged into the UPS.  (I recommend different coloured cables and sockets.)  And you won't know if accidentlly you have a 3 kW heater plugged in and nothing like the run-time you expected.  Or your batteries are dead.  Or removed!  Or blown fuses.  (I've seen all of these in real life: usually failures are something simple, high-reliability operation is difficult because you have to find them *all*.)  You should schedule periodic tests: usually I've specified  weekly or monthly test-trips and annual calibrations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Monitor, monitor, monitor** Do not put your server on UPS without ensuring the server will shut down properly if power outage is imminent.  (Means get the UPS with ethernet/USB/RS-232 interface, configure server to use it.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Budget** Just a budgetary comment.  A 10 kW UPS has a list price of around US$ 7,500 (March 2020), and its calculator suggests about 1h10 at 1,000 W and 2h30 at 500 W.  Adding extra batteries might get you to your target time. Remember you're going to be buying new batteries in a few years.  I'm not saying this is a good idea, merely noting what the costs might be.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Generator?** As suggested in comments, you might well be better served with a generator and say 10 minutes of UPS.  Typically you want to overrate the current of the generator too (Tripp [notes][6], Eaton [notes][7]) but not by too much (Hyundai [notes][8]).  Basically you get your electrician to get you an automatic transfer switch, or you can do it manually with plugs if you are always manned.  For budget purposes consider a 10 kW portable generator with electric start and interfaces for the transfer switch might cost US$ 1,000, and will run for 10 hours on a tank.  I've seen high-quality purpose-build 5 kW backup generators (ie, automatic start, long run) for around US$ 2,000.  A whole-house fixed generator of 20 kW might cost US$ 5,000, and can run on piped-gas if you have that (ie, indefinitely).  A backup-generator will have automatic start and (important!) a charger for the starter battery. (Quick budget numbers from US supplier Home Depot and UK Hyundai web sites, March 2020.)  Simple video showing a Hyundai 5 kW generator with &quot;automatic transfer switch&quot; on [Youtube][9].  In your application a UPS (and the computer!) would go where the lamp is in that video.  Another [video][10].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Documentation** You will find that the major suppliers such as APC and Tripp have extremely good general documentation.  (Eg *Calculating Total Power for Data Centers* at [APC][11].)  A quick search also shows a book from Kohler on the subject, also covers UPS-generator integration ([Kohler][12]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Answer&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you really want four hours, you might use something like the following as a spec for what you need to get/do:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Check and recheck your power requirement, following assumed as 1 kW&#xD;&#xA;* Online dual-conversion UPS&#xD;&#xA; * with wide tolerances to accept generator power [thanks David Schwartz]&#xD;&#xA; * with ethernet interface, ideally SNMP (others prefer USB or RS-232 handshake) for single-server [thanks Peter Cordes]&#xD;&#xA;* Max power &gt; 2 kW&#xD;&#xA;* 10 minute at 1 kW (long enough to refuel generator)&#xD;&#xA;* 5 kW diesel auto-start generator&#xD;&#xA;* Automatic transfer switch&#xD;&#xA;* Some method for server to see generator is operating, ideally with &quot;low fuel&quot; alarm, ideally SNMP&#xD;&#xA;* Colour sockets and cables for back-up mains&#xD;&#xA;* Colour ethernet cables for works-on-backup-power network&#xD;&#xA;* Testing regime&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course with a generator you'll get much more than four hours, and can consider whole-working-day or 24-hour operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may well find it's just too expensive and difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wiring is something along these lines:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;                                   +------------ Lights, non-essentials, etc&#xD;&#xA;                                   |&#xD;&#xA;          Mains power ------ ATS --+-- UPS ----- Server, essential switches, etc&#xD;&#xA;                              |&#xD;&#xA;              Generator ------+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can make do with an hour, perhaps you can do it with a straight UPS and avoid the complexity of the generator.  It's still expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Costs** For a starting guess, I'll write down capital cost of US$ 10,000 for a pure-UPS solution, and US$ 5,000 for a generator one.  The UPS will have very significant battery replacement costs (perhaps 50% every three years); the generator will have more installation and maintenance costs.  I'd guess the resell value of a UPS is very small, for a diesel generator you get a good fraction of the new price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Opinions and alternatives&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it was my business, I'm pretty sure I'd be doing nothing like this -- but of course it depends a lot on exactly what business you're in.  It's a lot of money for a UPS which does the job, and a generator is a lot of stuff and machinery.  Either way it's thousands for something which gets used occasionally.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd certainly consider being minimal about what has to stay up, work on reducing its power requirements, and using some kind of pure DC solution.  A system where there's no change in the primary system (power getting to computer) when there's an outage is much, much, much better than a system which has to start reliably but infrequently.  See the excellent other answer about DC from Harper https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/485951&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see in your comments the thing which has to stay up might well be just a self-contained compute server.  If that's the case, a long-uptime UPS is almost certainly the wrong way to go.  For my high-reliability systems I usually use 12 VDC-only computers with constant charging (exactly as Harper recommends as &quot;home-brew lead-acid&quot;), but they are always low-power CPUs.  Nevertheless I hope this overview of conventional UPS+generator has been useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS.  Square brackets show information from kind commenters, thanks all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://h20195.www2.hpe.com/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04346217.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjUF6.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-10000VA-230V/P-SRT10KXLI&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA158934/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://blog.tripplite.com/which-type-of-ups-system-works-best-with-a-generator&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/products/backup-power-ups-surge-it-power-distribution/backup-power-ups/six-considerations-to-achieving-generator-ups-harmony.html&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://hyundaipowerequipment.co.uk/underloading-diesel-generator&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_Ho64ks9Jo&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S18sYCvatlQ&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://download.schneider-electric.com/files?p_File_Name=VAVR-5TDTEF_R1_EN.pdf&amp;p_Doc_Ref=SPD_VAVR-5TDTEF_EN&#xD;&#xA;  [12]: https://www.kohler-ups.co.uk/ups/product/ups-handbook/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45896" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13130" RevisionGUID="71f00a57-a361-4558-8838-9800b4599bc6" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:21:40.353" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/485813/can-someone-help-me-identify-the-specifications-of-a-ups-for-a-20-core-high-perf/486199#486199" />
  <row Id="45897" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13130" RevisionGUID="ecd94699-3ffb-4ddb-bf88-92730772215c" CreationDate="2020-03-14T20:54:31.287" UserDisplayName="fraxinus" Text="Been there, done that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, know your enemy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power drawn: a watt-meter and a test with a power-hungry task. Your 20-core rig may draw anywhere between 350 and 1200W from AC when loaded (1kW PSU is some 80-sh % efficient and it is not known how overengineered it is for your use case). It is WATTS that you should care about. VA ratings are something UPS manufacturers put in specs in order to boost the numbers that sell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does it reside in a closed, air-conditioned room? If yes, you either consider the additional power used by the AC system or at least test how hot it becomes when AC is off for the projected outage time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wrong solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Generator: it needs fuel (see your local fire code, but you can skip that and start crying right now), it needs exaust management (so you generally end up building something at a code-required distance to any other building, you do have a backyard, OK?) and it needs someone starting it (I have yet to see a generator auto-starting reliably). Yes, it also needs maintenance (test runs, oil change, etc...). No, you don't want a generator. Not unless you scale the task some 30-fold.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Oversized (in terms of VA/watt ratings) UPS. Anything more than 2000W / 3000VA is overkill in your case - its self-consumption scales miserably and you don't get double the expected runtime by doubling the size of the UPS, esp. if you target runtime is in hours range. It also will be heavy and expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The proper solution:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An UPS with external, adequately-sized batteries. You may opt for a commercially-available or a hand-made hack.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For off-the-shelf solution: manufacturers like to advertize &quot;optimistic&quot; (read: unreal) runtimes. In order to get the real picture, see the ratings of the spare batteries, multiple V to Ah numbers and allow for at least 50% age-derating of the batteries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lithium batteries: an overill. Expensive as hell, yes, long-lived (do you expect to run the same setup in 10 years?) and after these 10 years you won't find a replacement. Lead-acids are a commodity and even if you fail to find an original replacement batteries, you can still disassemble the packs and fit a standard pieces there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I did (for about 40 remote offices):&#xD;&#xA;APC-1500-SMART-something, sent its internal batteries for recycling and had the electrician to connect it to a pair of truck batteries (12v, 230Ah) connected in series in order to get the required 24v of the original battery pack. The batteries need to be replaced after ~5 years if you still want 4 kWh out of them (in my case the improved electrical grid and replacing the equipment with more energy-efficient allowed more than 10 years of use).  Bonus: every truck driver knows where to get them for cheap and how to replace them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45898" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13134" RevisionGUID="e54d3e4c-501e-4129-bdfc-28d808810611" CreationDate="2020-03-12T09:18:18.790" UserDisplayName="Huisman" Text="Watts (W) and volt-amperes (VA) are both representing electrical power, but they are **not** (necessarily) **the same**.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Power in watts refers to **real power** and represents how much energy is consumed/dissipated.  &#xD;&#xA; - Power in volt-amperes refers to **apparent power**, which provides information how much current it will draw.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13128" RevisionGUID="5dc3cc80-09f5-46f5-b25b-a0ab1aa9d147" CreationDate="2020-03-25T21:15:15.640" UserId="9825" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I've been happy with my Brother monochrome printer/scanner/copier after finding a good review at [BoingBoing.net][1], and mine only cost me $80 in Yankee pesos.  Here's [a link for shopping][2]: I regret I can't search on UK local vendors only, but I have read of many UK users of these printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Brother%20USB%20monochrome%20scanner%20printer&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,root_cat:539072,pdtr0:959658%7C3639070,pdtr1:960877%7C960878,pdtr2:960893%7C960896,cat:500106,pdtr3:960880%7C960881,init_ar:SgeyBAQIwPMg&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi41d6fp7boAhXPHDQIHV_iC-UQsysIjBIoAA&amp;biw=1436&amp;bih=648" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45900" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13128" RevisionGUID="27b8dbd5-273f-4d83-b506-d8809aec851c" CreationDate="2020-03-25T21:21:17.767" UserId="9825" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I've been happy with my Brother monochrome printer/scanner/copier after finding a good review at [BoingBoing.net][1], and mine only cost me $80 in Yankee pesos.  Here's [a link for shopping][2]: I regret I can't search on UK local vendors only, but I have read of many UK users of these printers. Also, the Big River Trading Post in your friendly nation does have at least [one model listed][3] when I searched there for &quot;Brother MFC mono laser&quot; and it did have USB connectivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Brother%20USB%20monochrome%20scanner%20printer&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,root_cat:539072,pdtr0:959658%7C3639070,pdtr1:960877%7C960878,pdtr2:960893%7C960896,cat:500106,pdtr3:960880%7C960881,init_ar:SgeyBAQIwPMg&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi41d6fp7boAhXPHDQIHV_iC-UQsysIjBIoAA&amp;biw=1436&amp;bih=648&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GS3TSJ/ref=emc_b_5_t" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13052" RevisionGUID="ddbb8ac4-8999-4df3-b3f9-44d5d427852d" CreationDate="2020-03-25T21:27:51.210" UserId="9825" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="[UK amateur radio stores][1] will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. Please specify you want a UHF antenna for monitoring 1090 MHz [ADS-B/MLAT][2] aircraft transmissions. Conventional aircraft voice radio is 108-136 MHz AM; make sure to specify to the seller you need 1090 MHz. Also, make sure to get a standard male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft UHF transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How cheap is cheap? Here are rubber duckie 1GHZ capable SMA antennas [which attach to the receiver][3], a broader selection of [all that vendor's 1GHz capable antennas][4], [another vendor's choices][5], and [other selections][6]. Put the receiver module near a windows on a pie plate or other flat metal object to provide a ground plane. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1GHz UHF mag mount antennas][7] can be ordered with the SMA connector to get it further away from the module if needed.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need cheaper, get an [SMA male to PL-259 female connector][8] and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7 ; more ideas are at &#xD;&#xA;https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, [get a license][9]! It's fun!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;73 and best regards.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://flightaware.com/adsb/mlat/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/d/digi-intl/uhf-300-mhz-to-1-ghz-antennas&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/rf-if-and-rfid/rf-antennas/875?FV=1883%7C378890%2C1989%7C0%2C-8%7C875%2C1850%7C417326%2C1850%7C417333%2C1850%7C419655&amp;quantity=0&amp;ColumnSort=0&amp;page=1&amp;datasheet=1&amp;pageSize=500&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.everythingrf.com/search/all-antennas/filters?page=1&amp;country=UK&amp;stype=;Rubber%20Duck;&amp;sindustry=;Aerospace%20%26%20Defense;&amp;sfrequency_min=1000&amp;sfrequency_max=1200&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.nearson.com/antennas.php?page_id=67&amp;0=1&amp;1=41&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.rfwiz.com/comtelco-a21wb698b-uhf-3dbd&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13135" RevisionGUID="8ae2ca5f-ccca-41d1-b741-218bdb3a2dd6" CreationDate="2020-03-25T22:00:37.317" UserId="9825" Text="https://www.amazon.com/Linkind-Security-Starter-Control-Protection/dp/B07W49TS34 is a non-WiFi system which fulfills all your requirements. It includes a 110dB Siren Alarm, PIR Motion Sensor, and a pair of Door/Window Sensor sets. It uses ISM (Industrial, Scientific, and Medical) radio frequencies and therefore does not need a license. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45904" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13136" RevisionGUID="5c91ba0a-203c-4d8a-8df4-4eea0bee5d4b" CreationDate="2020-03-25T23:30:15.440" UserId="9825" Text="So, you're in Suid-Afrika. Get a lot of lightning?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did, growing up in Zap Central, the lightning capital of the United States, with &gt; 90 days/year where you could depend on a lightning strike within a mile.  The county was also flat and sub-tropical; the highest ground was five meters above mean high tide. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The highest building at the time was the administration building of the county government complex, where the mainframe was. LOTS of lightning, lots of power outages, many extended.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the axle of a motor-generator set was attached to a heavy flywheel. The motor spun the flywheel and the axle, the generator turned the rotation into clean steady power. When (not  if, but when) the power fails, the flywheel would run until a diesel genny could be started to pick up the load. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No need for inverters, rectifiers, or batteries, which are all failure-prone and high maintenance. It was also the kind of thing a shade-tree mechanic could keep running easily. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45905" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13137" RevisionGUID="6f900506-f474-466e-8e82-5365bf3e08c0" CreationDate="2020-03-26T02:49:07.423" UserId="14564" Text="Looking at this page https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/53438/intel-core-i3-2350m-processor-3m-cache-2-30-ghz.html It mentions that 16GB of memory is supported but then it says &quot;dependent on memory type&quot;. Are they referring to the speed of the memory or the manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone put 16GB in a Lenovo x220i i3?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45906" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13137" RevisionGUID="6f900506-f474-466e-8e82-5365bf3e08c0" CreationDate="2020-03-26T02:49:07.423" UserId="14564" Text="Will a Lenovo X220i with i3 support either 1066/1333?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45907" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13137" RevisionGUID="6f900506-f474-466e-8e82-5365bf3e08c0" CreationDate="2020-03-26T02:49:07.423" UserId="14564" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45908" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13039" RevisionGUID="bdb66ab4-750f-4513-8c9a-46a09ec96fb6" CreationDate="2020-03-26T03:13:10.737" UserId="14506" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="*([x-post from stackexchange/superuser][1])*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is my current setup at home:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now, I am able to connect remotely to my work computer at the office, both via my Mac work laptop and my Windows desktop. However, new restrictions will soon prevent any VPN connections from non-corporate devices, which means that my work laptop will soon be the only link through which I can connect remotely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering this, I am looking for suggestions on how to achieve both of the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Keep the ability to use multiple monitors when remoting into my&#xD;&#xA;    office computer, or using my work laptop.** &#xD;&#xA; 2. **Be able to easily&#xD;&#xA;    switch between a &quot;work&quot; context (again, either remoting into office&#xD;&#xA;    computer or using work laptop) and my personal desktop computer.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've never owned/used KVMs or docking stations. It seems as if a lot of the solutions I find when looking online deal with sharing input (i.e. mouse and keyboard) across multiple devices/contexts, which is not exactly what I'm going for: I have no need to have 2 &quot;active&quot; contexts simultaneously, I just want to have the ability to go from one context to the other without going through a ritual of cable switches.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That being said, here's what the (so far theoretical) best solution looks like to me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here, the &quot;magic software&quot; I'm looking for would have the ability to turn my Windows desktop into a simple relay that would get video input from the Mac laptop and display it on my screens, while also sending mouse + keyboard input to the Mac laptop (bonus points if the laptop can act as a 3rd monitor).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, to me, this feels like the ideal solution, since it doesn't involve buying any additional hardware, but **I'm open to any suggestions that would help me achieve point 1) and 2)** that I specified above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, here's me being proactive about some potential questions I might get:&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Why use a physical connection between the desktop and laptop, when you could use remote viewer solution X, Y, or Z?&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, I don't have anything against this per-se, except that I feel that a physical connection, if possible, just makes more sense. I've also had frustrating experiences with VNC in the past, and I don't know of any that behaves well with a multi-monitor setup. There's also the fact that I would prefer to keep the &quot;over the network&quot; traffic to a minimum, considering the scenario where I'll be remoting from work laptop into my office computer. If you have a suggestion for a remote viewer that doesn't suck, I'm all ears.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hardware specs?&#xD;&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Windows workstation&#xD;&#xA;  - Video card: Radeon 290x (2x DVI, 1x HDMI, 1x DisplayPort)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen 1&#xD;&#xA;  - Acer XG270HU (connected via DisplayPort)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Screen 2&#xD;&#xA;   - Some old Samsung monitor (connected via DVI)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Mac laptop&#xD;&#xA;  - Macbook Pro 13-inch 2017 &#xD;&#xA;  - Resolution: 2560x1600&#xD;&#xA;  - Connectors: Two &quot;Thunderbolt 3&quot; ports (USB-Connector)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1532340/seeking-recommendations-for-switching-between-mac-laptop-and-windows-workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yhdS.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYppk.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45910" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13138" RevisionGUID="5dca9046-ba72-4250-b08d-41f3ea37fafc" CreationDate="2020-03-26T07:03:23.553" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="&quot;Dependent on memory type&quot; is just a standard disclaimer, it does not apply here. The phrase applies e.g. to CPUs that support both UDIMM and RDIMM, with the latter enabling higher total memory capacity. It does not refer to memory speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A better source for information on Thinkpads is https://thinkwiki.de/X220&#xD;&#xA;It's in German, but the memory section states that 16GB will work in an X220, using two 8GB DIMMs.&#xD;&#xA;And I have seen quite a few reports from people using 2x8GB in an X220." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45914" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13140" RevisionGUID="13d94c4c-34f5-4424-b7db-f51ec25802c9" CreationDate="2020-03-26T10:25:01.717" UserId="1410" Text="The cheapest that I could find - that is available for delivery during the epidemic - was &#xD;&#xA;an [Epson Expression Home XP-2105 Wireless Inkjet Printer](https://www.argos.co.uk/product/9172874) for £39.99, plus £3.95 delivery (same day).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine that, as usual, it will come with half-cartridges. But, frankly, I am coming to see that buying a new printer is cheer than buying ink, so will probably continue to do so in future. If I buy a dedicated scanner, or just keep this printer to use its scanner features, then I can buy even cheaper printers in future, with no scanning capability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Printer:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Compatible with PC and Mac.&#xD;&#xA;    A4 print speed - black text: 8ppm (pages per minute).&#xD;&#xA;    A4 print speed - colour text: 4ppm (pages per minute).&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 5760 x 1440dpi print resolution.&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 5760 x 1440dpi colour print resolution.&#xD;&#xA;    Fits paper up to A4.&#xD;&#xA;    50 sheet paper capacity.&#xD;&#xA;    Uses 4 ink cartridges.&#xD;&#xA;    Recommended ink: Starfish 603. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Scanner and copier:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1200 x 2400dpi optical resolution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Connectivity:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Suitable for photo printing.&#xD;&#xA;    Wireless/WiFi enabled.&#xD;&#xA;    Email Print.&#xD;&#xA;    Mobile print enables printing direct from your smartphone or tablet through brand specific apps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;General information:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Photo editing software included.&#xD;&#xA;    Weight 4.82kg.&#xD;&#xA;    Includes Full set of Ink, Power Cable &amp; Instructions Manual.&#xD;&#xA;    Ink cartridge included.&#xD;&#xA;    Size H19.3, W37, D45.5cm.&#xD;&#xA;    EAN: 8715946665443. &#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLszY.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45921" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13128" RevisionGUID="025705cc-cd92-4672-852a-bec9147d4a9e" CreationDate="2020-03-26T15:13:17.507" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="I've been happy with my Brother monochrome printer/scanner/copier after finding a good review at [BoingBoing.net][1] which wwas specific as to its low cost of operation, and mine only cost me $80 Stateside.  Here's [a link for shopping][2]: I regret I can't search on UK local vendors only, but I have read of many UK users of these printers. Also, the Big River Trading Post in your friendly nation does have at least [one model listed][3] when I searched there for &quot;Brother MFC mono laser&quot; and it did have USB connectivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Brother%20USB%20monochrome%20scanner%20printer&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,root_cat:539072,pdtr0:959658%7C3639070,pdtr1:960877%7C960878,pdtr2:960893%7C960896,cat:500106,pdtr3:960880%7C960881,init_ar:SgeyBAQIwPMg&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi41d6fp7boAhXPHDQIHV_iC-UQsysIjBIoAA&amp;biw=1436&amp;bih=648&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GS3TSJ/ref=emc_b_5_t" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45925" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12845" RevisionGUID="d13a2cb1-20dd-46d1-92e0-8c0f360e026a" CreationDate="2020-03-26T22:01:15.097" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45942" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="c87a29f0-7ffe-4e76-b45c-c4a2afc49c02" CreationDate="2020-03-27T20:02:15.317" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="45944" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13044" RevisionGUID="9e938cd3-9835-4c06-a46b-5fbcd897b290" CreationDate="2020-03-27T21:31:33.137" UserId="1410" Comment="added 199 characters in body" Text="As per my comment, I found some affordable AIS receivers [here](https://mods.marin.nl/display/MIOD/AIS+Data+Sources).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest seems to be [this one](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-a021-ais-receiver-dongle/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Receiving on dual channels (161.975 MHz and 162.025 MHz) alternately&#xD;&#xA;    Auto-hopping channel algorithm improves captured message rate by 4%&#xD;&#xA;    Manually adjustable hopping interval rates (0.25 sec, 1 sec, 30 sec and auto-hopping)&#xD;&#xA;    Sensitivity down to -104 dBm@30% PER&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 12 nautical miles receiving range&#xD;&#xA;    USB 2.0 powered (&lt;26mA @5.0V)&#xD;&#xA;    Serial output: 38400 bps baud rate over USB&#xD;&#xA;    Message output in NMEA 0183 format&#xD;&#xA;    QK-A021 AIS Receiver USB Dongle(Auto-hopping V2.0)&#xD;&#xA;    SMA connector for 50 Ohm VHF antenna&#xD;&#xA;    SMA to BNC coaxial adaptor included&#xD;&#xA;    Compatible with Windows XP,7,8,10, Mac OS X, Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What’s included?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1 x QK-A021 v.2.0&#xD;&#xA;    1 x SMA-BNC coaxial adapter&#xD;&#xA;    1 x USB extension cable&#xD;&#xA;    1 x CD containing Manuals, Configuration Software and driver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $60 / Eur 55 / £50, I doubt that I will find cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only question is what kind of an antenna I would need. They sell [one for a further £30](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-as02-149-vhf-antenna/), but I will shop around for a cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For programming, I would imagine that it presents itself as a serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I bought [this antenna](https://www.radioworld.co.uk/radar-int_spare_indoor_aerial_for_airnav_radarbox) for £20, and, yes, the device presents itself as a virtual serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNOWj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPH6i.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45945" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13149" RevisionGUID="c72668de-336f-447a-bb28-23821f4a8ba5" CreationDate="2020-03-27T21:50:51.717" UserId="9825" Text="Start with a [USB 3 to SATA III combi cable][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add a [short SATA male-female cable][2] to the drive end of the combi cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not you're free to handle the drive power requirements, however you wish.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Adapters/usb-3-1-gen-2-adapter-cable-2-5-sata-drives~USB31CSAT3CB&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/i/233429373289" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45954" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13151" RevisionGUID="f189ead6-a6f8-4e92-8d82-ccb786facc26" CreationDate="2020-03-28T08:53:41.970" UserId="14545" Text="At 2020.Q1 most dual channel system that support DDR4 3200 only support reduced frequency when all four DIMMs are installed. To build a dual channel PC with 64GB DDR4 3200, 2*32GB DDR4 3200 is needed. 32GB DDR4 are becoming available now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another problem is some DDR4 DIMMs are said by customer service to be intel-only, not recommended for AMD. I think this is wrong, since DIMMs are tested by standard, then any DDR4 3200 DIMM will work at 3200 with any CPU/Motherboard that support DDR4 3200 (both are from top vendors). So it is even more not sure whether 32GB*2 DDR4 can work with AMD CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What dual channel (i.e. not 4 channel/8 DIMM flagship) CPU (AMD prefered for now since most main stream Intel CPU seems doesn't support 3200 at all)/mother board/DIMM are recommended for 64GB system whose DDR4 work at 3200 speed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45955" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13151" RevisionGUID="f189ead6-a6f8-4e92-8d82-ccb786facc26" CreationDate="2020-03-28T08:53:41.970" UserId="14545" Text="DDR4 3200 32G*2 system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45956" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13151" RevisionGUID="f189ead6-a6f8-4e92-8d82-ccb786facc26" CreationDate="2020-03-28T08:53:41.970" UserId="14545" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45957" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13152" RevisionGUID="38d58d1f-8d3f-49f7-a4f4-4fccec15ec36" CreationDate="2020-03-28T09:33:14.910" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Disambiguation: I will only touch on regular desktop memory aka unbuffered DIMM, because SO-DIMM for laptops does not have the exception I will be talking about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are in fact a few 32GB desktop UDIMMs with only very limited support on a few (or even only one?) Intel platforms. But you can easily recognize them: they are much taller than regular memory. Overly simplified, they worked by spoofing two DIMMs on a single stick of memory https://www.anandtech.com/show/13694/double-height-ddr4-gskill-zadak-2x32gb-ddr4-3200/8  &#xD;&#xA;These will not work on AMD platforms, and even most combinations of Intel motherboard+CPU will not recognize them correctly. So stay away from those, which should be easy enough since they are hard to find these days anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Regular&quot; 32GB UDIMMs enjoy much wider support, even on some older platforms that were released before 32GB UDIMMs were a thing. A recent bios version is probably a prerequisite here https://www.heise.de/newsticker/meldung/Nachgeprueft-128-GByte-DDR4-RAM-mit-AMD-Ryzen-und-Intel-Core-i-4476677.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the topic of memory speed: AMDs Zen2-based Ryzen 3000 CPUs have official support for up to DDR4-3200, at least with two single-rank DIMMs. AMDs official spec for memory configurations with more DIMMs and/or ranks is hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;But the truth of the matter is: the memory controller in Zen2-based Ryzen CPUs is much more mature than it was with Zen1. Reaching memory transfer speeds of 3200MT/s should be easy enough, even when populating all 4 DIMM slots with dual-rank memory modules. By the way, those 32GB UDIMMs are all dual-rank, and pretty much all 16GB UDIMMs are as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in conclusion: If you buy a Zen2-based Ryzen 3000 CPU (like e.g. Ryzen 7 3700X), you can use pretty much any memory configuration to get to DDR4-3200 speeds. Using 4x16GB or 2x32GB is a matter of taste, for example when using motherboards with only 2 DIMM slots.  &#xD;&#xA;The sweet-spot for performance with these CPUs seems to be around DDR4-3600. Achieving that would probably be a bit easier with only 2 DIMMs instead of 4." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13152" RevisionGUID="768d43d1-8508-4f11-ae3f-3fc0e0164483" CreationDate="2020-03-28T09:42:02.953" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 116 characters in body" Text="Disambiguation: I will only touch on regular desktop memory aka unbuffered DIMM, because SO-DIMM for laptops does not have the exception I will be talking about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are in fact a few 32GB desktop UDIMMs with only very limited support on a few (or even only one?) Intel platforms. But you can easily recognize them: they are much taller than regular memory. Overly simplified, they worked by spoofing two DIMMs on a single stick of memory https://www.anandtech.com/show/13694/double-height-ddr4-gskill-zadak-2x32gb-ddr4-3200/8  &#xD;&#xA;These will not work on AMD platforms, and even most combinations of Intel motherboard+CPU will not recognize them correctly. So stay away from those, which should be easy enough since they are hard to find these days anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Regular&quot; 32GB UDIMMs enjoy much wider support, even on some older platforms that were released before 32GB UDIMMs were a thing. A recent bios version is probably a prerequisite here https://www.heise.de/newsticker/meldung/Nachgeprueft-128-GByte-DDR4-RAM-mit-AMD-Ryzen-und-Intel-Core-i-4476677.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the topic of memory speed: AMDs Zen2-based Ryzen 3000 CPUs have official support for up to DDR4-3200, at least with two single-rank DIMMs. AMDs official spec for memory configurations with more DIMMs and/or ranks is hard to find.&#xD;&#xA;But the truth of the matter is: the memory controller in Zen2-based Ryzen CPUs is much more mature than it was with Zen1. Reaching memory transfer speeds of 3200MT/s should be easy enough, even when populating all 4 DIMM slots with dual-rank memory modules. By the way, those 32GB UDIMMs are all dual-rank, and pretty much all 16GB UDIMMs are as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in conclusion: If you buy a Zen2-based Ryzen 3000 CPU (like e.g. Ryzen 7 3700X), you can use pretty much any memory configuration to get to DDR4-3200 speeds. Using 4x16GB or 2x32GB is a matter of taste, for example when using motherboards with only 2 DIMM slots.  &#xD;&#xA;The sweet-spot for performance with these CPUs seems to be around DDR4-3600. Achieving that would probably be a bit easier with only 2 DIMMs instead of 4.  &#xD;&#xA;Motherboards also play a role here, but daisy chain vs. t-topology seems to be beyond the scope of the question." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46961" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13153" RevisionGUID="6120be69-92c8-4a83-9dff-0f4d996e7858" CreationDate="2020-03-28T20:37:22.807" UserId="1578" Text="[Pine RockPro 64][1] now exists with a 4Gb option, as does the Raspberry Pi 4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pine64.org/devices/single-board-computers/rock64/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46962" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13154" RevisionGUID="5a461412-710a-4b63-bb8b-4cdb4f2e7d2d" CreationDate="2020-03-28T20:39:54.513" UserId="1578" Text="I have a lenovo p51 laptop with the Quadro M2200 graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering if this hardware supports VR gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, would it be possible or sensible to use and external graphics box connected over thunderbolt? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46963" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13154" RevisionGUID="5a461412-710a-4b63-bb8b-4cdb4f2e7d2d" CreationDate="2020-03-28T20:39:54.513" UserId="1578" Text="VR with Quadro M2200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46964" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13154" RevisionGUID="5a461412-710a-4b63-bb8b-4cdb4f2e7d2d" CreationDate="2020-03-28T20:39:54.513" UserId="1578" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="3514aaaa-b4f0-43f6-b517-01f1750cee62" CreationDate="2020-03-28T21:30:32.710" UserId="14540" Text="I am looking for a audio mixer with at least 3 inputs that has a form of remote control, such as rs232 or some other interface. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This needs to be able to control the 3 sources volume interdependently, like the ones suggested on here https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7201/two-audio-sources-one-set-of-speakers/9559#9559 but with control over a digital interface." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46966" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="3514aaaa-b4f0-43f6-b517-01f1750cee62" CreationDate="2020-03-28T21:30:32.710" UserId="14540" Text="Simple audio mixer with &quot;remote&quot; control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46967" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="3514aaaa-b4f0-43f6-b517-01f1750cee62" CreationDate="2020-03-28T21:30:32.710" UserId="14540" Text="&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46974" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10327" RevisionGUID="c491ba45-3feb-461c-a9a3-6b4d5f21189f" CreationDate="2020-03-29T15:01:30.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="46975" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13158" RevisionGUID="061acb81-efb9-4b1b-be8f-51cc823796a5" CreationDate="2020-03-29T17:29:43.350" UserId="13590" Text="What's the best laptop under $800 for Linux gaming? I'll use it for Minecraft and general computer stuff. I'll install Linux Mint as the operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1920x1080 display (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 256GB SSD/HDD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU drivers work well with Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46976" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13158" RevisionGUID="061acb81-efb9-4b1b-be8f-51cc823796a5" CreationDate="2020-03-29T17:29:43.350" UserId="13590" Text="Best laptop under $800 for Linux gaming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46977" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13158" RevisionGUID="061acb81-efb9-4b1b-be8f-51cc823796a5" CreationDate="2020-03-29T17:29:43.350" UserId="13590" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13159" RevisionGUID="cab0cc9b-90db-440e-a601-35e008338607" CreationDate="2020-03-29T21:34:48.643" UserId="7696" Text="My job uses a cloud-based PBX system that I can access from home by dialing into it with my cell phone. I, like most of the modern world, no longer use a landline in my home. I have an iPhone 7 plus with **a lightning connector**, and I need to make this connect to a **Jabra 860 amplifier** in the simplest method possible **via rj9 connection** as seen here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Background Info) Typically I get audio from my work PC through USB. However, while working remotely I am required to call-in because I am unable to use this USB audio as our PBX system doesn't have our IP addresses whitelisted to be able to connect remotely from our PCs. While we are connecting to our servers through VPN, that connection isn't using the whitelisted IP that we need either.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, I have already purchased a splitter that allows me to both charge my phone and connect a 3.5 mm audio cable. So now I am needing a **3.5mm (male) to rj9 (male) cable** that will connect the iPhone splitter and the amplifier. But I am not having much success finding this. I have found other solutions that allow a 3.5mm to Jabra QC (Quick Connect), but that would require me to bypass the amplifier altogether and connect straight to my headset and I am not sure how I feel about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have found a 3.5 mm (male) to rj9 (female), but this would then require me to purchase yet another cable: rj9 (male) to rj9 (male). This would make 3 separate cables I would have to use just to get to the amplifier. I am afraid the more complicated I make this connection the more sources of failure I may encounter - or I may just run into degrading quality due to the length and many connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, I am looking for 1 of the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A cable solution that would allow me to get my 3.5 mm iPhone splitter to RJ9. Then I can use an existing headset that already has a connection from the amplifier, OR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A new headset if the above is not possible. Headset should be decent quality, and contain all of the following features:&#xD;&#xA;  - 1 ear (mono) on-the-ear speaker *(over the ear may be okay, but not preferred. In-the-ear is a no go)*&#xD;&#xA;  - Extended, rotating microphone (this is why I am not using the iPhone headset)&#xD;&#xA;  - Some level of noise cancellation / unidirectional microphone&#xD;&#xA;  - NOT wireless *(although this would be a very easy connection to my iPhone)*&#xD;&#xA;  - I also have a lightning to lightning (charger) / lightning (audio) splitter. So I am okay with a headset that has a lightning (male) connector or a 3.5 mm (male) connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be a solution that will be used for a short period of time and probably never touched again. So my preferred budget is around $50 USD, but that's negotiable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I am not looking to splice my own cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXUbRs.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13159" RevisionGUID="cab0cc9b-90db-440e-a601-35e008338607" CreationDate="2020-03-29T21:34:48.643" UserId="7696" Text="Solution to my &quot;Work From Home&quot; Office Phone Setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13159" RevisionGUID="cab0cc9b-90db-440e-a601-35e008338607" CreationDate="2020-03-29T21:34:48.643" UserId="7696" Text="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46981" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13159" RevisionGUID="3f764289-39c1-47bb-b3e7-9b8487c69999" CreationDate="2020-03-29T21:42:52.320" UserId="7696" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="My job uses a cloud-based PBX system that I can access from home by dialing into it with my cell phone. I, like most of the modern world, no longer use a landline in my home. I have an iPhone 7 plus with **a lightning connector**, and I need to make this connect to a **Jabra 860 amplifier** in the simplest method possible **via rj9 connection** as seen here:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(Background Info) Typically I get audio from my work PC through USB. However, while working remotely I am required to call-in because I am unable to use this USB audio as our PBX system doesn't have our IP addresses whitelisted to be able to connect remotely from our PCs. While we are connecting to our servers through VPN, that connection isn't using the whitelisted IP that we need either.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, I have already purchased a splitter that allows me to both charge my phone and connect a 3.5 mm audio cable. So now I am needing a **3.5mm (male) to rj9 (male) cable** that will connect the iPhone splitter and the amplifier. But I am not having much success finding this. I have found other solutions that allow a 3.5mm to Jabra QC (Quick Connect), but that would require me to bypass the amplifier altogether and connect straight to my headset and I am not sure how I feel about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have found a 3.5 mm (male) to rj9 (female), but this would then require me to purchase yet another cable: rj9 (male) to rj9 (male). This would make 3 separate cables I would have to use just to get to the amplifier. I am afraid the more complicated I make this connection the more sources of failure I may encounter - or I may just run into degrading quality due to the length and many connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the end, I am looking for 1 of the following.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A cable solution that would allow me to get my 3.5 mm iPhone splitter to RJ9. Then I can use an existing headset that already has a connection from the amplifier, OR&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A new headset if the above is not possible. Headset should be decent quality, and contain all of the following features:&#xD;&#xA;  - 1 ear (mono) on-the-ear speaker *(over the ear may be okay, but not preferred. In-the-ear is a no go)*&#xD;&#xA;  - Extended, rotating microphone (this is why I am not using the iPhone headset)&#xD;&#xA;  - Some level of noise cancellation / unidirectional microphone&#xD;&#xA;  - NOT wireless *(although this would be a very easy connection to my iPhone)*&#xD;&#xA;  - I also have a lightning to lightning (charger) / lightning (audio) splitter. So I am okay with a headset that has a lightning (male) connector or a 3.5 mm (male) connector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This will be a solution that will be used for a short period of time and probably never touched again. So my preferred budget is around $50 USD, but that's negotiable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I am not looking to splice my own cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXUbRs.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXUbR.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46990" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="9690acb2-d946-4c43-a637-91692acdf843" CreationDate="2020-03-30T23:03:00.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="46991" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12972" RevisionGUID="3aed9807-2644-48e8-a6cf-3a392dad5ec6" CreationDate="2020-03-31T02:00:23.820" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="46992" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13164" RevisionGUID="1dbf285c-ced9-4936-8162-53a5bab23dd3" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:08:17.190" UserId="227" Text="I'm looking for a 4G router that has SMS features I can access programmatically via an API, e.g. to send and receive SMS etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I have found so far is a Huaweii router that I can access the control panel of using a fake browser interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would rather not use a Huaweii though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46993" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13164" RevisionGUID="1dbf285c-ced9-4936-8162-53a5bab23dd3" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:08:17.190" UserId="227" Text="4G router with API" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46994" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13164" RevisionGUID="1dbf285c-ced9-4936-8162-53a5bab23dd3" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:08:17.190" UserId="227" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46995" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13164" RevisionGUID="12729419-e187-4513-9781-42d739720fc8" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:15:37.497" UserId="227" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a 4G router that has SMS features I can access programmatically via an API, e.g. to send and receive SMS etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The nearest I have found so far is a Huaweii router that I can access the control panel of using a fake browser interface, i.e. front-end scraping.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would rather not use a Huaweii though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="46996" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13164" RevisionGUID="12729419-e187-4513-9781-42d739720fc8" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:15:37.497" UserId="227" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="4G Mobile Router with API" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47002" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13158" RevisionGUID="e2dd5bc8-522f-405c-883b-9127b1dd8025" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:54:12.997" UserId="13590" Comment="Defined &quot;best&quot;." Text="What's the best laptop under $800 for Linux gaming? I'll use it for Minecraft and general computer stuff. I'll install Linux Mint as the operating system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1920x1080 display (or higher)&#xD;&#xA; - At least 256GB SSD/HDD&#xD;&#xA; - GPU drivers work well with Linux&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best means highest FPS in Minecraft." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47004" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13167" RevisionGUID="5d5d82d4-e375-4262-b74f-8025682e595c" CreationDate="2020-03-31T16:42:59.327" UserId="15581" Text="I have an 24&quot; HPes which I'm trying to connect to my Acer Aspire e5-575g(e15). The monitor worked fine for a couple of weeks, but sometimes would stop projecting picture. By this I mean that on an extended display I am able to access the desktop space, but the monitor is dark. It stopped working completely last night and I'm unsure why, as the cable and the monitor connect perfectly fine with my work laptop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have Windows 10 and the HDMI port uses the integrated graphics card of my i5-6200U(Intel(R) HD 520), its drivers are up to date.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas on what the issue might be?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47005" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13167" RevisionGUID="5d5d82d4-e375-4262-b74f-8025682e595c" CreationDate="2020-03-31T16:42:59.327" UserId="15581" Text="HDMI cable randomly stops producing picture" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47006" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13167" RevisionGUID="5d5d82d4-e375-4262-b74f-8025682e595c" CreationDate="2020-03-31T16:42:59.327" UserId="15581" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13171" RevisionGUID="f98c7dae-ad05-4b54-89f4-ab3f8591640e" CreationDate="2020-03-31T21:24:52.513" UserId="9333" Text="What are options in 2020 for (used) cheapest Lineage OS compatible but still supported phones?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Motorola G4 is cheap but no more supported&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While Motorola G4 is no more supported, are there recent experiences that a private build is working?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47013" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13171" RevisionGUID="f98c7dae-ad05-4b54-89f4-ab3f8591640e" CreationDate="2020-03-31T21:24:52.513" UserId="9333" Text="Lineage OS for smartphones in 2020 under $100?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47014" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13171" RevisionGUID="f98c7dae-ad05-4b54-89f4-ab3f8591640e" CreationDate="2020-03-31T21:24:52.513" UserId="9333" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13173" RevisionGUID="9c93f033-c52b-4612-90f4-2e5325b0c367" CreationDate="2020-03-31T21:55:08.690" UserId="9825" Text="No information is available here regarding private builds of Lineage OS for the Motorola G4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Device support by an OS is shown at the [OS website][1]. Since we don't know where you are, and may not be able to check the market in your locale even if we did know, please instead check your own market pricing for these supported devices. This list shows manufacturer, model name, codename, and if it isn't a phone, its form factor:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ZUK	Z1	ham	  &#xD;&#xA;ZUK	Z2 Plus	z2_plus	  &#xD;&#xA;Yandex	Phone	Amber	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5	gemini	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5s	capricorn	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5s Plus	natrium	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 6	sagit	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 8	dipper	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi A1	tissot	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX	lithium	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX 2	chiron	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX 2S	polaris	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi Note 2	scorpio	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi Note 3	jason	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Poco F1	beryllium	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi 3S/3X	land	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi 4(X)	santoni	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi Note 4	mido  	&#xD;&#xA;Wileyfox	Swift	crackling	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia XA2	pioneer	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia XA2 Ultra	discovery	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia Z3	z3	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia Z3 Compact	z3c	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A3 (2016)	a3xelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A5 (2016)	a5xelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A5 (2017)	a5y17lte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A7 (2017)	a7y17lte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N9005/P)	hlte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N9008V)	hltechn	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N900K/L/S)	hltekor	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N900T/V/W8)	hltetmo	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Dual SIM)	s3ve3gds  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Samsung Camera)	s3ve3gjv	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Sony Camera)	s3ve3gxx  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (GT-I9505/G, SGH-I337M, SGH-M919)	jfltexx	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SCH-I545)	jfltevzw	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SCH-R970, SPH-L720)	jfltespr	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SGH-I337)	jflteatt	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 Active	jactivelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 Value Edition (GT-I9515/L)	jfvelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Active	klteactivexx	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G9006V/8V)	kltechn	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900AZ/F/M/R4/R7/T/V/W8,S902L)	klte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900I/P)	kltedv	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900K/L/S)	kltekor	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (SCL23)	kltekdi	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE Duos (G9006W/8W)	kltechnduo	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE Duos (G900FD/MD)	klteduos	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE-A	lentislte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Neo	s5neolte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Plus	kccat6	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Tab S2 8.0 Wi-Fi (2016)	gts28vewifi	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Tab S2 9.7 Wi-Fi (2016)	gts210vewifi	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Realme	3 Pro	RMX1851	  &#xD;&#xA;Razer	Phone	cheryl	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	F1 (International)	f1f	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	Find 7a/s	find7	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R5/R5s (International)	r5	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R7 Plus (International)	r7plus	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R7s (International)	r7sf	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 2	oneplus2	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 3 / 3T	oneplus3	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 5	cheeseburger  	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 5T	dumpling	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 6	enchilada	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 6T	fajita	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 7 Pro	guacamole	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus One	bacon	  &#xD;&#xA;Nubia	Z17	nx563j	  &#xD;&#xA;Nextbit	Robin	ether	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto G7	river	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto X 2014	victara	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto X4	payton	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto Z	griffin	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto Z2 Force	nash	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (AT&amp;T)	d800	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (Canadian)	d803	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (International)	d802	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (T-Mobile)	d801	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (AT&amp;T)	d850	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Canada)	d852	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (International)	d855	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Korea)	f400	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Sprint)	ls990	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (T-Mobile)	d851	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Verizon)	vs985	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (International)	h850	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (T-Mobile)	h830	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (US Unlocked)	rs988	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (AT&amp;T)	h910	    &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Global)	h990	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Sprint)	ls997	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (T-Mobile)	h918	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (US Unlocked)	us996	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Verizon)	vs995	  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	P2	kuntao	  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	Yoga Tab 3 Plus LTE		YTX703L	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	Yoga Tab 3 Plus Wi-Fi	YTX703F	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le 2	s2	  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le Max2	x2	  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le Pro3 / Le Pro3 Elite	zl1	  &#xD;&#xA;Huawei	Honor 5X	kiwi	  &#xD;&#xA;Huawei	Honor View 10	berkeley  	&#xD;&#xA;Huawei	P20 Pro	charlotte	  &#xD;&#xA;HTC	One (M8)	m8	  &#xD;&#xA;HTC	One (M8) Dual SIM	m8d	  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Nexus 6	shamu	Phablet  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Pixel	sailfish	  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Pixel XL	marlin	  &#xD;&#xA;Fairphone	FP2	FP2	  &#xD;&#xA;Essential	Essential PH-1	mata	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X	bardock	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X Pro	bardockpro	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X2	zangya	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X2 Pro	zangyapro	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone 3	zenfone3	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone 6 (ZS630KL)	I01WD	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone Max Pro M1	X00TD	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone Max Pro M2	X01BD	  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13176" RevisionGUID="68ce441e-267a-49dd-ab6c-c4001d426c83" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:01:49.940" UserId="14280" Text="I plan on building a gaming PC to play FPS, racing sims and VR games. I want to know what graphics cards are capable of running those style games at it's maximum presets at 1440p 144hz. These are the parts that I currently planning on putting in the system. I would like to spend around 500-750 USD on a GPU, but don't want to skimp on a GPU's quality or performance either. I'd also like this card to be a triple fan GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i9-9900kf (Plan on OC'ing)  &#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Slim (with two fans, in push/pull config)  &#xD;&#xA;MOBO: Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3000  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 1TB M.2  &#xD;&#xA;HDD: Western Digital Black 6TB 7200RPM  &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Thermaltake V100 (With 5 120mm Case fans)&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would the Nvidia RTX 2070 Super run video games at 1440p 144hz at maximum settings or 4K 120hz at high settings?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47025" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13176" RevisionGUID="68ce441e-267a-49dd-ab6c-c4001d426c83" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:01:49.940" UserId="14280" Text="Nvidia GPU that can play games at 1440p 144hz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47026" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13176" RevisionGUID="68ce441e-267a-49dd-ab6c-c4001d426c83" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:01:49.940" UserId="14280" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47027" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13177" RevisionGUID="2a12f693-3d1a-43d0-b745-fdd52cf4071f" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:11:22.390" UserId="14280" Text="Check that the monitor power cable and HDMI cable are securely plugged in. If the issue still occurs the cable is probably bad, replace it and see if that works. If that doesn't fix it, either the HDMI port on the monitor is bad, or the HDMI port is bad in the GPU. The ports shouldn't have gone bad after a maximum of a month of usage though. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47028" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13178" RevisionGUID="6cd31407-2512-439f-96b2-dfa49a7c8af2" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:19:08.780" UserId="14280" Text="I would suggest anything with a GTX 1660TI or lower. I would assume GTX 1080 or lower will play nicer with Linux due to the GPU's being older and have more robust drivers. &#xD;&#xA;Those are going to be cheap, powerful enough for gaming in Minecraft and still leave you with plenty of battery life to use for 7-8 hours if you configure the power usage correctly." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47029" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13178" RevisionGUID="5e7cc7c7-152b-48b3-a569-02a8d7e82ee4" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:28:22.743" UserId="14280" Comment="added 573 characters in body" Text="I would suggest anything with a GTX 1660TI or lower for a GPU. I would assume GTX 1080 or lower will play nicer with Linux due to the GPU's being older and have more robust drivers. Those are going to be cheap, powerful enough for gaming in Minecraft and still leave you with plenty of battery life to use for 7-8 hours if you configure the power usage correctly. (Just be aware that prices are inflated due to the COVID-19 outbreak)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the following:  &#xD;&#xA;[Dell G3 15in Gaming Laptop w/ GTX 1050][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have the 2017 version of this laptop (running windows) and I love it. No issues with gaming performance on Minecraft and even more demanding titles like Rainbow Six Siege, BeamNG.Drive, COD: BO4 and Titanfall.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/gaming-laptops/dell-g3-15-gaming-laptop/spd/g-series-15-3590-laptop/gnslk5crg302s?view=configurations&amp;configurationid=c6a8572c-c15c-4733-bc75-980867d81c5e" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13180" RevisionGUID="4372d72d-e0b3-4ca9-b647-52e468f9f602" CreationDate="2020-04-01T02:20:01.060" UserId="14280" Text="Your Lenovo P51 Laptop may be able to run VR if you use an external GPU box like what comes from [Razer][1] because you have a Thunderbolt 3 port, which is what that uses. I would pair that Razer Core X with a minimum of a GTX 1060. I would get a GTX 1660Ti or RTX 2060. These are all extremely powerful GPU's that will last for a while.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the GPUs that will work and I reccomend, in order of most to least powerful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. RTX 2060 Super&#xD;&#xA;2. GTX 1070ti&#xD;&#xA;3. RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;4. GTX 1070&#xD;&#xA;5. GTX 1660Ti&#xD;&#xA;6. GTX 1660 Super&#xD;&#xA;7. GTX 1660&#xD;&#xA;8. GTX 1060&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't buy anything above an RTX 2060 Super without buying a laptop, where at that point, I'd find a laptop with an RTX 2060 or higher in it because you're going to be saving money at that point (and maybe even some bottlenecking from happening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU links that I like (In order from least to most powerful):   &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1060 (Minimum) $400][2]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1660Ti $300][3]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia RTX 2060 $400][4]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-gaming-x-6g/p/N82E16814127963&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gv-n166toc-6gd/p/N82E16814932131&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-geforce-rtx-2060-rog-strix-rtx2060-o6g-gaming/p/N82E16814126280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="329f8058-3c4d-41e3-8442-203461c36034" CreationDate="2020-04-01T12:15:43.410" UserId="24" Text="We need Wifi APs for a small business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are various expectations what I can't foresee. The last what I want, that trivial things, what the hardware could easily do, are simply impossible because we have no root access to our own devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Germany, AVM!Fritz is a very popular AP solution (it is even common that home ISPs simply make their devices obligatory), however they are regularly racing to make their systems so un-configurable as possible; and this added them to my blacklist. I did the same by Cisco, on similar reason (they are also wanting regularly a lot of money for firmware updates, and their relative recent devices from 2013 had a weak signal strength).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ideal image is that I could simply ssh into the AP to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be also eatable by layman bosses. Thus, it should be an AP with a googlable manufacturer name (not bad if it is not common, but it needs to have a name). I should be able to point that &quot;I found this (link) device from ..., I suggest to buy it for ...&quot;, and should look as a reasonable suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47037" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="329f8058-3c4d-41e3-8442-203461c36034" CreationDate="2020-04-01T12:15:43.410" UserId="24" Text="Easily rootable, Linux-based Wifi AP eatable by a corporate environment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47038" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="329f8058-3c4d-41e3-8442-203461c36034" CreationDate="2020-04-01T12:15:43.410" UserId="24" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47039" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="41c28ebb-d31a-4895-8f74-5e9822bfd579" CreationDate="2020-04-01T12:21:51.543" UserId="24" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="We need Wifi APs for a small business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are various expectations what I can't foresee. The last what I want, that trivial things, what the hardware could easily do, are simply impossible because we have no root access to our own devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Germany, AVM!Fritz is a very popular AP solution (it is even common that home ISPs simply make their devices obligatory), however they are regularly racing to make their systems so un-configurable as possible; and this added them to my blacklist. I did the same by Cisco, on similar reason (they are also wanting regularly a lot of money for firmware updates, and their relative recent devices from 2013 had a weak signal strength).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ideal image is that I could simply ssh into the AP to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be also eatable by layman bosses. Thus, it should be an AP with a googlable manufacturer name (not bad if it is not common, but it needs to have a name). I should be able to point that &quot;I found this (link) device from ..., I suggest to buy it for ...&quot;, and it should look as a reasonable suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13183" RevisionGUID="66a32be2-44ba-44cc-bf68-13e1e91de341" CreationDate="2020-04-01T13:50:29.447" UserId="15586" Text="I have a Thinkpad T480 that has the stock Intel Core i5-8350U vPro MB (1.70ghz) processor in it.  It really just is not enough CPU for what I do with it once I dock it and hook it up to my dual monitors.  I haven't been able to find any information on compatible CPUs or if the upgrade is just plug and play or if its soldered.  I was thinking of upgrading to an Intel i7-9700 9th generation but I don't know if it is compatible or not.  Just hoping for a recommendation on what to purchase that will fit. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13183" RevisionGUID="66a32be2-44ba-44cc-bf68-13e1e91de341" CreationDate="2020-04-01T13:50:29.447" UserId="15586" Text="CPU Upgrade Recommendations Thinkpad T480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13183" RevisionGUID="66a32be2-44ba-44cc-bf68-13e1e91de341" CreationDate="2020-04-01T13:50:29.447" UserId="15586" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13184" RevisionGUID="a87078cf-01c7-44d8-a964-c1d94481701d" CreationDate="2020-04-01T14:07:01.220" UserId="15587" Text="I'm looking for the perfect keyboard and mouse. This is what perfect means for me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Normal shape, not interested in ergonomic curves, foldable etc.&#xD;&#xA;- Slim and light keyboard &amp; mouse&#xD;&#xA;- Low profile keys&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless, with both keyboard and mouse working off a single USB dongle&#xD;&#xA;- Rechargeable would be nice, but not essential&#xD;&#xA;- Traditional UK keyboard layout. The most important part is I want a &quot;\&quot; key between the &quot;Shift&quot; and the &quot;z&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought Jelly Comb basically did what I want, in something like [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jelly-Comb-Wireless-Rechargeable-Keyboard-Silver-White/dp/B07R8P4VHT/), but alas, they've put the &quot;\&quot; key above &quot;Enter&quot;. So many keyboards seem to either do that or put &quot;\&quot; as a function option on the &quot;z&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also ordered [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T13FH28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00), which has the layout I'm looking for, but it's just too big and clunky, the keys are too high profile. I don't like typing on it at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone know of such a slim, low-profile wireless keyboard &amp; mouse combo?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47045" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13184" RevisionGUID="a87078cf-01c7-44d8-a964-c1d94481701d" CreationDate="2020-04-01T14:07:01.220" UserId="15587" Text="Wireless, low profile UK keyboard &amp; mouse with backslash" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47046" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13184" RevisionGUID="a87078cf-01c7-44d8-a964-c1d94481701d" CreationDate="2020-04-01T14:07:01.220" UserId="15587" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47049" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13185" RevisionGUID="0cfbd4ba-ee4e-48ae-a268-d5411a3401b3" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:25:57.290" UserId="9825" Text="The [Ball Grid Array][1] used in the [Core i5-8350U][2] CPU is factory-soldered, and I would not even try to remove it to upgrade the CPU for any one of three choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Unsoldering and resoldering BGA CPUS is very difficult without factory-level tools&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) The chipset, also permanently soldered onto the motherboard, limits your CPU choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Laptops are very carefully designed to exhaust waste heat, and adding a hotter CPU likely shortens the lifetime of the other components. You're limited to 25W maximum [TDP][3], 10W normal for safe operation.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47050" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13173" RevisionGUID="7e717270-9e38-433f-9f46-3765799dd48c" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:29:26.397" UserId="9825" Comment="added 94 characters in body" Text="No information is available here regarding private builds of Lineage OS for the Motorola G4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Device support by an OS is shown at the [OS website][1], from which I filtered out the devices no longer supported to make the list which follows. This list shows manufacturer, model name, codename, and if it isn't a phone, its form factor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since we don't know where you are, and may not be able to check the market in your locale even if we did know, please instead check your own market pricing for these supported devices. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ZUK	Z1	ham	  &#xD;&#xA;ZUK	Z2 Plus	z2_plus	  &#xD;&#xA;Yandex	Phone	Amber	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5	gemini	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5s	capricorn	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 5s Plus	natrium	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 6	sagit	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi 8	dipper	    &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi A1	tissot	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX	lithium	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX 2	chiron	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi MIX 2S	polaris	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi Note 2	scorpio	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Mi Note 3	jason	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Poco F1	beryllium	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi 3S/3X	land	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi 4(X)	santoni	  &#xD;&#xA;Xiaomi	Redmi Note 4	mido  	&#xD;&#xA;Wileyfox	Swift	crackling	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia XA2	pioneer	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia XA2 Ultra	discovery	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia Z3	z3	  &#xD;&#xA;Sony	Xperia Z3 Compact	z3c	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A3 (2016)	a3xelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A5 (2016)	a5xelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A5 (2017)	a5y17lte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy A7 (2017)	a7y17lte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N9005/P)	hlte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N9008V)	hltechn	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N900K/L/S)	hltekor	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Note 3 LTE (N900T/V/W8)	hltetmo	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Dual SIM)	s3ve3gds  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Samsung Camera)	s3ve3gjv	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S III Neo (Sony Camera)	s3ve3gxx  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (GT-I9505/G, SGH-I337M, SGH-M919)	jfltexx	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SCH-I545)	jfltevzw	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SCH-R970, SPH-L720)	jfltespr	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 (SGH-I337)	jflteatt	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 Active	jactivelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S4 Value Edition (GT-I9515/L)	jfvelte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Active	klteactivexx	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G9006V/8V)	kltechn	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900AZ/F/M/R4/R7/T/V/W8,S902L)	klte  	&#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900I/P)	kltedv	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (G900K/L/S)	kltekor	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE (SCL23)	kltekdi	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE Duos (G9006W/8W)	kltechnduo	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE Duos (G900FD/MD)	klteduos	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 LTE-A	lentislte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Neo	s5neolte	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy S5 Plus	kccat6	  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Tab S2 8.0 Wi-Fi (2016)	gts28vewifi	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Samsung	Galaxy Tab S2 9.7 Wi-Fi (2016)	gts210vewifi	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Realme	3 Pro	RMX1851	  &#xD;&#xA;Razer	Phone	cheryl	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	F1 (International)	f1f	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	Find 7a/s	find7	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R5/R5s (International)	r5	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R7 Plus (International)	r7plus	  &#xD;&#xA;OPPO	R7s (International)	r7sf	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 2	oneplus2	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 3 / 3T	oneplus3	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 5	cheeseburger  	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 5T	dumpling	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 6	enchilada	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 6T	fajita	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus 7 Pro	guacamole	  &#xD;&#xA;OnePlus	OnePlus One	bacon	  &#xD;&#xA;Nubia	Z17	nx563j	  &#xD;&#xA;Nextbit	Robin	ether	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto G7	river	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto X 2014	victara	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto X4	payton	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto Z	griffin	  &#xD;&#xA;Motorola	Moto Z2 Force	nash	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (AT&amp;T)	d800	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (Canadian)	d803	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (International)	d802	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G2 (T-Mobile)	d801	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (AT&amp;T)	d850	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Canada)	d852	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (International)	d855	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Korea)	f400	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Sprint)	ls990	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (T-Mobile)	d851	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G3 (Verizon)	vs985	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (International)	h850	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (T-Mobile)	h830	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	G5 (US Unlocked)	rs988	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (AT&amp;T)	h910	    &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Global)	h990	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Sprint)	ls997	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (T-Mobile)	h918	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (US Unlocked)	us996	  &#xD;&#xA;LG	V20 (Verizon)	vs995	  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	P2	kuntao	  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	Yoga Tab 3 Plus LTE		YTX703L	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;Lenovo	Yoga Tab 3 Plus Wi-Fi	YTX703F	Tablet  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le 2	s2	  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le Max2	x2	  &#xD;&#xA;LeEco	Le Pro3 / Le Pro3 Elite	zl1	  &#xD;&#xA;Huawei	Honor 5X	kiwi	  &#xD;&#xA;Huawei	Honor View 10	berkeley  	&#xD;&#xA;Huawei	P20 Pro	charlotte	  &#xD;&#xA;HTC	One (M8)	m8	  &#xD;&#xA;HTC	One (M8) Dual SIM	m8d	  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Nexus 6	shamu	Phablet  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Pixel	sailfish	  &#xD;&#xA;Google	Pixel XL	marlin	  &#xD;&#xA;Fairphone	FP2	FP2	  &#xD;&#xA;Essential	Essential PH-1	mata	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X	bardock	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X Pro	bardockpro	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X2	zangya	  &#xD;&#xA;BQ	Aquaris X2 Pro	zangyapro	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone 3	zenfone3	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone 6 (ZS630KL)	I01WD	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone Max Pro M1	X00TD	  &#xD;&#xA;ASUS	Zenfone Max Pro M2	X01BD	  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="9ab7422e-bf0b-4942-9e5f-e26cdc49a0b3" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:31:25.097" UserId="1329" Text="I wanted to upgrade my old Aten [CS1794][1] KVM switch to something that supports 4K and DisplayPort for a long time, but couldn't find something that fits my needs the way the CS1794 did when I bought it about 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Should have DisplayPort support with 4K. HDMI would be nice but is optional.&#xD;&#xA;- Should be able to switch between at least 2 clients (2-port), 4 would be better.&#xD;&#xA;- Switching more than one display or support for MST would be really nice, but I think that will increase the price a lot. I only have 2 displays at the moment, so [CS1964][2] is beyond what I need.&#xD;&#xA;- Should have at least USB 3.0. USB Type-C would be nice. USB PD to power the device as well as to power connected devices would be super nice, but I think I'm asking for the impossible.&#xD;&#xA;- Cables longer than 1.5 meter would be good. I'm aware that USB 3.0 suffers from signal degradation beyond 2 meters and certified high quality DisplayPort cables longer than 2 meters were difficult to find and quite thick.&#xD;&#xA;- Price up to 500 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other manufacturers besides Aten competing in the market or will there be some note worthy products in the market in the next let's say 6 months?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMDI was nice because I could also hook up game consoles. I'm looking into HDMI 2.0 capable switches (like [this][3]) to switch inputs on the monitor and then to the respective console if necessary. I already have more than 4 devices so I need to look into that to, if you have recommendations and lessons learned from your small home office, please share them. [HDMI to DisplayPort converters][4] seem to be limited to 4K at 30 Hz, which may be sufficient for watching movies but not recommendable for interaction like office/desktop usage or playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs1794/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aten.com/de/de/products/kvm/kvm-switches-f%C3%BCr-den-schreibtisch/cs1964/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/CSL-Fernbedienung-Automatische-Umschaltung-Aluminiumgeh%C3%A4use-Schwarz/dp/B079P5SC4K&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47052" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="9ab7422e-bf0b-4942-9e5f-e26cdc49a0b3" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:31:25.097" UserId="1329" Text="4K KVM desktop switch with DisplayPort" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47053" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="9ab7422e-bf0b-4942-9e5f-e26cdc49a0b3" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:31:25.097" UserId="1329" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="f2a2e1bd-c709-48c9-8480-f3c275eb23c6" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:35:34.873" UserId="9825" Comment="grammatical fix" Text="We need Wifi APs for a small business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are various expectations what I can't foresee. The last what I want, that trivial things, what the hardware could easily do, are simply impossible because we have no root access to our own devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Germany, AVM!Fritz is a very popular AP solution (it is even common that home ISPs simply make their devices obligatory), however they are regularly racing to make their systems so un-configurable as possible; and this added them to my blacklist. I did the same by Cisco, on similar reason (they are also wanting regularly a lot of money for firmware updates, and their relative recent devices from 2013 had a weak signal strength).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ideal image is that I could simply ssh into the AP to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be also acceptable to layman bosses. Thus, it should be an AP with a Google-able manufacturer name (not bad if it is not common, but it needs to have a name). I should be able to point that &quot;I found this (link) device from ..., I suggest to buy it for ...&quot;, and it should look as a reasonable suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47055" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="f2a2e1bd-c709-48c9-8480-f3c275eb23c6" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:35:34.873" UserId="9825" Comment="grammatical fix" Text="Easily rootable, Linux-based Wifi AP acceptable in a corporate environment" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47056" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="f2a2e1bd-c709-48c9-8480-f3c275eb23c6" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:35:34.873" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 24 edit id of 1062" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47057" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13182" RevisionGUID="2f9f142f-5f89-40b7-ada2-d0bd6640055f" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:42:39.250" UserId="24" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="We need Wifi APs for a small business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there are various expectations what I can't foresee. The last what I want, that trivial things, what the hardware could easily do, are simply impossible because we have no root access to our own devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Germany, AVM!Fritz is a very popular AP solution (it is even common that home ISPs simply make their devices obligatory), however they are regularly racing to make their systems so un-configurable as possible; and this added them to my blacklist. I did the same by Cisco, on similar reason (they are also wanting regularly a lot of money for firmware updates, and their relative recent devices from 2013 had a weak signal strength).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ideal image is that I could simply ssh into the AP to reconfigure it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be also acceptable to layman bosses. Thus, it should be an AP with a Google-able manufacturer name (not bad if it is not common, but it needs to have a name). I should be able to point that &quot;I found this (link) device from ..., I suggest to buy it for ...&quot;, and it should look as a reasonable suggestion.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actually, any AP is okay, if&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. The manufacturer is googleable.&#xD;&#xA;2. I can modify its firmware without hardware hacks. No problem, if it causes warranty loss." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47058" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13185" RevisionGUID="aedfecf0-238e-477b-9c1c-90a8c9135fdb" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:48:03.927" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1285 characters in body" Text="The [Ball Grid Array][1] used in the [Core i5-8350U][2] CPU of the [Thinkpad T480][3] is factory-soldered, and I would not even try to remove it to upgrade the CPU for any one of three choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Unsoldering and resoldering BGA CPUS is very difficult without factory-level tools&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) The chipset, also permanently soldered onto the motherboard, limits your CPU choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Laptops are very carefully designed to exhaust waste heat, and adding a hotter CPU likely shortens the lifetime of the other components. You're limited to 25W maximum [TDP][4], 10W normal for safe operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more GPU, likely since the T480 relied on the Intel UHD Graphics 620 in the APU, an [external GPU device][5] can be added, connecting via the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C / Intel Thunderbolt 3 (Power Delivery, DisplayPort, Data transfer) interface.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may also consider upgrading the PCIe (NVMe) drive, following instructions starting on page 69 of your [hardware manual][6], if you are bound by drive performance. That would require finding the model of drive you now have before shopping for a [faster drive][7], but Lenovo's tech specs for that device don't show that information. Therefore, I'd suggest (assuming Windows, since you did not mention Linux):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Click &quot;Start&quot; and navigate to the control panel.   &#xD;&#xA;- Select &quot;Systems and Maintenance.&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;- Click the &quot;Device Manager,&quot; then &quot;Disk Drives.&quot; &#xD;&#xA;- You can get detailed information about your hard drive on this screen, including your serial number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-t-series/ThinkPad-T480/p/22TP2TT4800&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/t480_hmm_en.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.windowscentral.com/best-solid-state-drives-increase-performance-windows-10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13187" RevisionGUID="0f997925-f8ec-4df7-93b5-1002ce8968eb" CreationDate="2020-04-01T15:57:19.170" UserId="9825" Text="Not consistently [according to the NVIDIA specs][1] found at their website.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/rtx-2070-super/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KUA2.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13188" RevisionGUID="d5c98370-40ab-4718-b127-f4f4f20b3863" CreationDate="2020-04-01T16:32:22.633" UserId="9825" Text="I'm going to start with the [open source firmware projects][1] and drill down from there, picking on three which have been popular in the open source shop I've worked in. (Note: everyone's got opinions and institutional bias may exist among my fellow neckbeards there, so I've also included above a link showing more open source router firmware projects).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Devices in these lists are mostly WiFi routers, but it's very easy to disable the routing functions and turn a router into a Wireless Access Point. Economies of scale dictate since mostly folks buy WiFi routers, not Wireless Access Points, there will be more WiFi routers and in general, they will be priced competitively. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well-known manufacturers with [devices supported by OpenWRT][2] (and therefore rootable) include ASUS, Buffalo, D-Link, (may I exclude Huawei?), Netgear, TP-Link, Ubiquiti (spendy!), Xiaomi, and ZyXEL.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's also a list of devices [currently supported by DD-WRT][3] which include Asus, Buffalo, Dell, D-Link, Linksys, Meraki, Mitsubishi, Motorola, Netgear, Nokia, Siemens, Toshiba, TP-Link, and Ubiquiti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other names may be more viable in Germany than stateside, so if I neglected a brand which has gotten good press where you are, please accept my apologies. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_router_firmware_projects&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://openwrt.org/toh/views/toh_available_864&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices#Supported_Devices" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47063" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13189" RevisionGUID="3899c9a2-f73e-4962-8ed2-434597b5bc28" CreationDate="2020-04-01T16:43:45.067" UserId="13572" Text="The OnePlus 3 (maybe 3T) was a very solid phone (had one), and it still supported." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47064" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13176" RevisionGUID="fa4a7fda-ee04-48e9-a96f-407e106d2da0" CreationDate="2020-04-01T16:57:19.903" UserId="14280" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="I plan on building a gaming PC to play FPS, racing sims and VR games. I want to know what graphics cards are capable of running those style games at it's maximum presets at 1440p 144hz. These are the parts that I currently planning on putting in the system. I would like to spend around 500-750 USD on a GPU, but don't want to skimp on a GPU's quality or performance either. I'd also like this card to be a triple fan GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i9-9900kf (Plan on OC'ing)  &#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Slim (with two fans, in push/pull config)  &#xD;&#xA;MOBO: Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3000  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 1TB M.2  &#xD;&#xA;HDD: Western Digital Black 6TB 7200RPM  &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Thermaltake V100 (With 5 120mm Case fans)&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would the Nvidia RTX 2070 Super run video games at 1440p 144FPS at settings or 4K 120FPS at high/very high settings without Ray Tracing? (The reason behind that is because my family member has the RTX 2080 TI and doesn't like RT b/c it impacts framerate too much)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47065" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13180" RevisionGUID="4f7d6e1e-56bc-4231-a9d6-f015a09020a1" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:05:33.440" UserId="14280" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="Your Lenovo P51 Laptop may be able to run VR if you use an external GPU box like what comes from [Razer][1] because you have a Thunderbolt 3 port, which is what that uses. I would pair that Razer Core X with a minimum of a GTX 1060. I strongly recommend you getting a GTX 1660Ti over the GTX 1060 because new GTX 1060's are hard to find, and going to be expensive for an older piece of hardware. The GTX 1660TI is the best bang for the buck that would run VR. These are all extremely powerful GPU's that will last for a while. If you did want the RTX 2060 or a GTX 1080TI, I would purchase a new gaming laptop with one of those video cards in it, because you're avoiding a possible CPU bottleneck, and getting a more powerful GPU than what you'd be getting if you combined the price of a high-end GPU (like an RTX 2060 Super) and the Razer Core X.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;These are the GPUs that will work and I recommend, in order of most to least powerful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. RTX 2060 Super&#xD;&#xA;2. GTX 1070ti&#xD;&#xA;3. RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;4. GTX 1070&#xD;&#xA;5. GTX 1660Ti&#xD;&#xA;6. GTX 1660 Super&#xD;&#xA;7. GTX 1660&#xD;&#xA;8. GTX 1060&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't buy anything above an RTX 2060 Super without buying a laptop, where at that point, I'd find a laptop with an RTX 2060 or higher in it because you're going to be saving money at that point (and maybe even some bottlenecking from happening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU links that I like (In order from least to most powerful):   &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1060 (Minimum) $400][2]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1660Ti $300][3]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia RTX 2060 $400][4]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-gaming-x-6g/p/N82E16814127963&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gv-n166toc-6gd/p/N82E16814932131&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-geforce-rtx-2060-rog-strix-rtx2060-o6g-gaming/p/N82E16814126280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47066" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13176" RevisionGUID="8f3a9ba0-86ad-4715-ae25-7c4781bcea22" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:12:23.430" UserId="14280" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="I plan on building a gaming PC to play FPS, racing sims and VR games. I want to know what graphics cards are capable of running those style games at it's maximum presets at 1440p 144hz. These are the parts that I currently planning on putting in the system. I would like to spend around 500-750 USD on a GPU, but don't want to skimp on a GPU's quality or performance either. I'd also like this card to be a triple fan GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i9-9900kf (Plan on OC'ing)  &#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Slim (with two fans, in push/pull config)  &#xD;&#xA;MOBO: Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X LGA1151  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3000  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 1TB M.2  &#xD;&#xA;HDD: Western Digital Black 6TB 7200RPM  &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Thermaltake V100 (With 5 120mm Case fans)&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would the Nvidia RTX 2070 Super run video games at 1440p 144FPS at settings  high/very high settings without Ray Tracing? (The reason behind that is because my family member has the RTX 2080 TI and doesn't like RT b/c it impacts framerate too much)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13187" RevisionGUID="1092e61b-8d5a-4240-98ed-6626e97a3599" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:18:27.347" UserId="9825" Comment="added 180 characters in body" Text="Not consistently [according to the NVIDIA specs][1] found at their website.  A search in their [Support Forum][2] and also [in their knowledgebase][3] found no comments regarding improved performance if ray tracing is turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/rtx-2070-super/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/discover/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/list/st/5/kw/Disable%20ray%20tracing/page/1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KUA2.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47068" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10024" RevisionGUID="f9c87efc-5787-4f0d-9f56-e6ad13054899" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:22:57.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47069" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="565d20d6-f7d1-4844-b2af-5092735fa291" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:25:01.347" UserId="14280" Text="I want to build a gaming system to play FPS, Racing and VR games at 1440p 144hz. I need a 28&quot;  monitor recommendation that is a flat-screen. Must have a DisplayPort, HDMI port, a VESA mount and 1MS response time. The included stand must be removable, as I am going to mount the monitor to a VESA mount, next to a Samsung 28&quot; 4k 60hz monitor. If it has a USB passthrough or RGB, It'd be a bonus but not required. I don't care if it has AMD FreeSync or Nvidia G-Sync in it, because I am using a FreeSync monitor currently with an Nvidia GTX 1050 and I have no issues with it. The budget for the monitor is around $300 USD but feel free to push the budget up to $400, due to the inflated prices of COVID-19 and I would buy the monitor around Black Friday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the brands, Samsung, Dell/Alienware, MSI, BenQ, AOC, ASUS/ROG, Preditor, LG and Aorus. I like those brands of monitors, but you don't have to stick within these brands if you give me a good argument about why it is a good monitor for what I need." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47070" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="565d20d6-f7d1-4844-b2af-5092735fa291" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:25:01.347" UserId="14280" Text="144p 144hz flat screen gaming monitor reccomendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47071" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="565d20d6-f7d1-4844-b2af-5092735fa291" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:25:01.347" UserId="14280" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13187" RevisionGUID="85d6c83c-bafa-46cd-ab3a-68d65204434c" CreationDate="2020-04-01T17:43:12.053" UserId="9825" Comment="added 311 characters in body" Text="Not consistently [according to the NVIDIA specs][1] found at their website.  A search in their [Support Forum][2] and also [in their knowledgebase][3] found no comments regarding improved performance if ray tracing is turned off. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, Inamdar in [NVIDIA Chat Support][4] did say &quot;Yes, if you use the game without ray tracing the fps and performance will increase. We can't comment about the FPS (rate). FPS **depends upon the game** and configuration. It can't be constant.&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/rtx-2070-super/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/discover/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/list/st/5/kw/Disable%20ray%20tracing/page/1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/chat/chat_launch/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KUA2.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="d23c18ce-c531-4f91-8fc3-b5b322be9946" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:11:35.173" UserId="9825" Text="[LG 32GK65B-B 32” UltraGear™ QHD Gaming Monitor with FreeSync™ Monitor][1] is [$386 today at B&amp;H Photo][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lg.com/us/business/desktop-monitors/lg-32gk65b-b&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1478385-REG/lg_32gk65b_b_32_uhd_gaming_monitor.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47077" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="f756ff89-8b3f-49d0-be22-bf0296afd345" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:13:53.623" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="I want to build a gaming system to play FPS, Racing and VR games at 1440p 144hz. I need a 28&quot; monitor recommendation that is a flat-screen.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That display have a DisplayPort, HDMI port, a VESA mount and 1MS response time.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The included stand must be removable, as I am going to mount the monitor to a VESA mount, next to a Samsung 28&quot; 4k 60hz monitor.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has a USB passthrough or RGB, It'd be a bonus but not required. I don't care if it has AMD FreeSync or Nvidia G-Sync in it, because I am using a FreeSync monitor currently with an Nvidia GTX 1050 and I have no issues with it.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget for the monitor is around $300 USD but feel free to push the budget up to $400, due to the inflated prices of COVID-19 and I would buy the monitor around Black Friday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the brands, [Samsung][1], [Dell/Alienware][2], [MSI][3], [BenQ][4], [AOC][5], [ASUS/ROG][6], [Acer/Predator][7], [LG][8], and [Gigabyte/AORUS][9]. I like those brands of monitors, but you don't have to stick within these brands if you give me a good argument about why it is a good monitor for what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/gaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-monitors/ar/alienware_monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://us.msi.com/Monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.benqdirect.com/monitors/gaming.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://us.aoc.com/en/gaming&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.asus.com/us/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/Monitors-Products/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/predator-models/monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.lg.com/us/gaming-monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47078" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="f756ff89-8b3f-49d0-be22-bf0296afd345" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:13:53.623" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="1440p 144hz flat screen gaming monitor recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47079" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="f756ff89-8b3f-49d0-be22-bf0296afd345" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:13:53.623" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 14280 edit id of 1064" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47080" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="2a18ab1f-a1da-4af6-9f1b-c6a875340fad" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:16:05.447" UserId="14280" Comment="added 115 characters in body" Text="I want to build a gaming system to play FPS, Racing and VR games at 1440p 144hz. I need a 27&quot; or 28&quot; monitor recommendation that is a flat-screen, but no bigger as the monitors would stick off of the desk and be partially (by an inch or two) in the walkway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That display have a DisplayPort, HDMI port, a VESA mount and 1MS response time.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The included stand must be removable, as I am going to mount the monitor to a VESA mount, next to a Samsung 28&quot; 4k 60hz monitor.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it has a USB passthrough or RGB, It'd be a bonus but not required. I don't care if it has AMD FreeSync or Nvidia G-Sync in it, because I am using a FreeSync monitor currently with an Nvidia GTX 1050 and I have no issues with it.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The budget for the monitor is around $300 USD but feel free to push the budget up to $400, due to the inflated prices of COVID-19 and I would buy the monitor around Black Friday. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the brands, [Samsung][1], [Dell/Alienware][2], [MSI][3], [BenQ][4], [AOC][5], [ASUS/ROG][6], [Acer/Predator][7], [LG][8], and [Gigabyte/AORUS][9]. I like those brands of monitors, but you don't have to stick within these brands if you give me a good argument about why it is a good monitor for what I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/gaming/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/alienware-monitors/ar/alienware_monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://us.msi.com/Monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.benqdirect.com/monitors/gaming.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://us.aoc.com/en/gaming&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.asus.com/us/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/Monitors-Products/&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/predator-models/monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.lg.com/us/gaming-monitors&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47081" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="16779887-821d-4513-b9ba-8dddbe9374f7" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:22:12.480" UserId="9825" Comment="added 514 characters in body" Text="[LG 32GK65B-B 32” UltraGear™ QHD Gaming Monitor with FreeSync™][1] Monitor is [$386 today at B&amp;H Photo][2][.][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lg.com/us/business/desktop-monitors/lg-32gk65b-b&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1478385-REG/lg_32gk65b_b_32_uhd_gaming_monitor.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk02aS6vT9-lVAj7ivUm4nGDC5S5B_Q:1585765264095&amp;q=28%22%20flat%20display%20DP%20HDMI%20VESA%20QHD%201ms%20144Hz%20-curved&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:250,ppr_max:400,pdtr0:716339%7C716340!716341!716361!716343!716369!716346,pdtr1:721168%7C721182!721169,pdtr2:718959%7C721179,pdtr3:1160904%7C68.58000183105469%2480.01000213623047,cat:305,pdtr4:960753%7C960754&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4q43668foAhW6GTQIHRkIDR8QsysIrAgoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47082" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="07159280-17a1-4bbf-b403-f8caa2cbc6ad" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:36:09.817" UserId="9825" Comment="added 514 characters in body" Text="[Acer XF270HU Cbmiiprx][1] gaming monitor is [$330 shipped today at Amazon/BuyBurg][2] [.][3]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX0AA.C03&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YGY3RMQ/?tag=buyburgusa-20&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk02aS6vT9-lVAj7ivUm4nGDC5S5B_Q:1585765264095&amp;q=28%22%20flat%20display%20DP%20HDMI%20VESA%20QHD%201ms%20144Hz%20-curved&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:250,ppr_max:400,pdtr0:716339%7C716340!716341!716361!716343!716369!716346,pdtr1:721168%7C721182!721169,pdtr2:718959%7C721179,pdtr3:1160904%7C68.58000183105469%2480.01000213623047,cat:305,pdtr4:960753%7C960754&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4q43668foAhW6GTQIHRkIDR8QsysIrAgoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47083" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="a3b7cdb7-9d20-4e5c-b603-b77e4b89e416" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:44:01.300" UserId="9825" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="[Acer XF270HU Cbmiiprx][1] gaming monitor is [$330 shipped today at Amazon/BuyBurg][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer KG271U is $250 today][3] or [$300 at Compsource][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[.][5]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX0AA.C03&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YGY3RMQ/?tag=buyburgusa-20&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX1AA.011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.compsource.com/buy/UMHX1AA011/Acer-10/?src=F&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk02aS6vT9-lVAj7ivUm4nGDC5S5B_Q:1585765264095&amp;q=28%22%20flat%20display%20DP%20HDMI%20VESA%20QHD%201ms%20144Hz%20-curved&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:250,ppr_max:400,pdtr0:716339%7C716340!716341!716361!716343!716369!716346,pdtr1:721168%7C721182!721169,pdtr2:718959%7C721179,pdtr3:1160904%7C68.58000183105469%2480.01000213623047,cat:305,pdtr4:960753%7C960754&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4q43668foAhW6GTQIHRkIDR8QsysIrAgoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="6a9dcc00-218d-4003-a68f-a113e5a172dd" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:50:42.173" UserId="9825" Comment="added 196 characters in body" Text="[Acer XF270HU Cbmiiprx][1] gaming monitor is [$330 shipped today at Amazon/BuyBurg][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer KG271U is $250 today][3] or [$300 FOB Destination at Compsource][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS MG278Q][5] is [$400 shipped at Amazon][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Asus VG27BQ][7] is [$400 w/ shipping from B&amp;H Photo][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[.][9]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX0AA.C03&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YGY3RMQ/?tag=buyburgusa-20&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX1AA.011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.compsource.com/buy/UMHX1AA011/Acer-10/?src=F&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/MG278Q/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/27-inch-FreeSync-MG278Q-Response-DisplayPort/dp/B014X4U076&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.asus.com/Monitors/TUF-Gaming-VG27BQ/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506379-REG/asus_27_tuf_vg27bq_extreme.html/?ap=y&amp;ap=y&amp;smp=y&amp;smp=y&amp;lsft=BI%3A514&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw95D0BRBFEiwAcO1KDMkTkaWDCWK074wCa5UiFX5t4UddF2R1WY2U5ctUbbwle_lfvvx9JxoCBYcQAvD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk02aS6vT9-lVAj7ivUm4nGDC5S5B_Q:1585765264095&amp;q=28%22%20flat%20display%20DP%20HDMI%20VESA%20QHD%201ms%20144Hz%20-curved&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:250,ppr_max:400,pdtr0:716339%7C716340!716341!716361!716343!716369!716346,pdtr1:721168%7C721182!721169,pdtr2:718959%7C721179,pdtr3:1160904%7C68.58000183105469%2480.01000213623047,cat:305,pdtr4:960753%7C960754&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4q43668foAhW6GTQIHRkIDR8QsysIrAgoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13192" RevisionGUID="a4d639c7-4b3c-4f9a-96f7-5315be003da4" CreationDate="2020-04-01T19:00:39.050" UserId="9825" Comment="added 209 characters in body" Text="[Acer XF270HU Cbmiiprx][1] gaming monitor is [$330 shipped today at Amazon/BuyBurg][2] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer KG271U is $250 today][3] or [$300 FOB Destination at Compsource][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Acer VG270U][5] is [$360 shipped today from Newegg][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS MG278Q][7] is [$400 shipped at Amazon][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Asus VG27BQ][9] is [$400 w/ shipping from B&amp;H Photo][10].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[.][11]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX0AA.C03&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YGY3RMQ/?tag=buyburgusa-20&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.HX1AA.011&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.compsource.com/buy/UMHX1AA011/Acer-10/?src=F&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/GB/content/models/monitors/vg0&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9B-24-011-243&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/MG278Q/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.amazon.com/27-inch-FreeSync-MG278Q-Response-DisplayPort/dp/B014X4U076&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.asus.com/Monitors/TUF-Gaming-VG27BQ/specifications/&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506379-REG/asus_27_tuf_vg27bq_extreme.html/?ap=y&amp;ap=y&amp;smp=y&amp;smp=y&amp;lsft=BI%3A514&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw95D0BRBFEiwAcO1KDMkTkaWDCWK074wCa5UiFX5t4UddF2R1WY2U5ctUbbwle_lfvvx9JxoCBYcQAvD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk02aS6vT9-lVAj7ivUm4nGDC5S5B_Q:1585765264095&amp;q=28%22%20flat%20display%20DP%20HDMI%20VESA%20QHD%201ms%20144Hz%20-curved&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:250,ppr_max:400,pdtr0:716339%7C716340!716341!716361!716343!716369!716346,pdtr1:721168%7C721182!721169,pdtr2:718959%7C721179,pdtr3:1160904%7C68.58000183105469%2480.01000213623047,cat:305,pdtr4:960753%7C960754&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4q43668foAhW6GTQIHRkIDR8QsysIrAgoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47086" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13193" RevisionGUID="7dbf211d-b081-432b-8cc5-9cb0a74c1615" CreationDate="2020-04-01T19:16:05.413" UserId="15590" Text="I'm building my first gaming pc, and I have a question about PCI express versions. I'm looking to purchase a CPU for a budget system. I'm torn between two of them, the AMD Ryzen 5 2600, and the 3400g. From what I've researched, the 2600 is faster, put it has one problem. It only has PCI express 3.0, instead of the newer 4.0. I did the research, and PCIe 4.0 has double the bandwidth. I use wireless connection for my internet. Can someone explain this to me? Do I need double the Bandwidth or is it just a nice perk to have? Much appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47087" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13193" RevisionGUID="7dbf211d-b081-432b-8cc5-9cb0a74c1615" CreationDate="2020-04-01T19:16:05.413" UserId="15590" Text="I have a question about bandwidth and the key differences between PCI express versions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47088" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13193" RevisionGUID="7dbf211d-b081-432b-8cc5-9cb0a74c1615" CreationDate="2020-04-01T19:16:05.413" UserId="15590" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13194" RevisionGUID="0c12df64-5a2c-4eb9-9bc9-ff9bf087ee0a" CreationDate="2020-04-01T20:35:02.133" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="For the foreseeable future, in an entry-level personal computer, PCIe 4.0 is rather nice-to-have instead of a must-have.  &#xD;&#xA;Very few devices benefit from the increased bandwidth in a way that would be noticeable to the end-user. WiFi is definitely not one of them, the bandwidth here is not even close to saturating PCIe 3.0 links.&#xD;&#xA;You also would need a PCIe 4.0 capable motherboard to unlock this feature. So far, only X570 motherboards have PCIe 4.0 in the consumer space. And these are way to expensive to be justified in a budget PC.&#xD;&#xA;In addition to that, a Ryzen 3400G does not even have PCIe 4.0. The Ryzen 3000 APUs are still based on the Zen1 architecture, hence only PCIe 3.0." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13194" RevisionGUID="216ded21-5ba1-4d27-8f41-2c2be1617796" CreationDate="2020-04-01T20:48:25.657" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="cleaning up" Text="For the foreseeable future, in an entry-level personal computer, PCIe 4.0 is rather nice-to-have instead of a must-have. Or to put it differently: there are much better ways to spend excess budget than on this feature. more RAM, (larger) SSD, faster CPU, faster GPU, you name it.  &#xD;&#xA;Very few devices benefit from the increased bandwidth in a way that would be noticeable to the end-user. WiFi is definitely not one of them, the bandwidth here is not even close to saturating PCIe 3.0 links.&#xD;&#xA;You also would need a PCIe 4.0 capable motherboard to unlock this feature. So far, only X570 motherboards have PCIe 4.0 in the consumer space. And these are way to expensive to be justified in a budget PC.&#xD;&#xA;In addition to that, a Ryzen 3400G does not even have PCIe 4.0. The Ryzen 3000 APUs are still based on the Zen1 architecture, hence only PCIe 3.0." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47097" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13180" RevisionGUID="9951c93c-fbfd-4ab4-9857-54dc990d69a9" CreationDate="2020-04-02T03:58:55.890" UserId="14280" Comment="added 262 characters in body" Text="Your Lenovo P51 Laptop may be able to run VR if you use an external GPU box (also called eGPU's) because you have a Thunderbolt 3 port, which is what that uses. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU boxes: [Razer Core X][1] (In RGB and Non-RGB 'flavors') and [Gigabyte GPU Box][2] with a [Nvidia RTX 2080ti][3], [Nvidia RTX 2070][4], [Nvidia GTX 1080][5], [Nvidia GTX 1070][6], or [AMD RX 580][7] GPU's&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wanted the Razer Core X, you would need to pair it with a minimum of a GTX 1060. I strongly recommend you getting a GTX 1660Ti over the GTX 1060 because new GTX 1060's are hard to find, and going to be expensive for an older piece of hardware. The GTX 1660TI is the best bang for the buck that would run VR. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wanted the Gigabyte's GPU box, I would purchase one with an Nvidia GTX 1080, Nvidia GTX 1070 or an AMD RX 580. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;These are the GPUs that will work and I recommend, in order of most to least powerful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. RTX 2060 Super&#xD;&#xA;2. GTX 1070ti&#xD;&#xA;3. RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;4. GTX 1070&#xD;&#xA;5. GTX 1660Ti&#xD;&#xA;6. GTX 1660 Super&#xD;&#xA;7. GTX 1660&#xD;&#xA;8. GTX 1060&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't buy anything above an RTX 2060 Super without buying a laptop, where at that point, I'd find a laptop with an RTX 2060 or higher in it because you're going to be saving money at that point (and maybe even some bottlenecking from happening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU links that I like (In order from least to most powerful):   &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1060 (Minimum) $400][8]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1660Ti $300][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/Gaming-Box&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TIXEB-11GC#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N2070IXEB-8GC#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-RX580IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-gaming-x-6g/p/N82E16814127963&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gv-n166toc-6gd/p/N82E16814932131" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47099" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="a28896ea-cf51-4941-8ee6-f5213bd01866" CreationDate="2020-04-02T10:44:27.903" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link" Text="I wanted to upgrade my old Aten [CS1794][1] KVM switch to something that supports 4K and DisplayPort for a long time, but couldn't find something that fits my needs the way the CS1794 did when I bought it about 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Should have DisplayPort support with 4K. HDMI would be nice but is optional.&#xD;&#xA;- Should be able to switch between at least 2 clients (2-port), 4 would be better.&#xD;&#xA;- Switching more than one display or support for [MST][2] would be really nice, but I think that will increase the price a lot. I only have 2 displays at the moment, so the [CS1964][3] is beyond what I need.&#xD;&#xA;- Should have at least USB 3.0. USB Type-C would be nice. USB PD to power the device as well as to power connected devices would be super nice, but I think I'm asking for the impossible.&#xD;&#xA;- Cables longer than 1.5 meter would be good. I'm aware that USB 3.0 suffers from signal degradation beyond 2 meters and certified high quality DisplayPort cables longer than 2 meters were difficult to find and quite thick.&#xD;&#xA;- Price up to 500 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other manufacturers besides Aten competing in the market or will there be some note worthy products in the market in the next let's say 6 months?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMDI was nice because I could also hook up game consoles. I'm looking into HDMI 2.0 capable switches (like [this][4]) to switch inputs on the monitor and then to the respective console if necessary. I already have more than 4 devices so I need to look into that to, if you have recommendations and lessons learned from your small home office, please share them. [HDMI to DisplayPort converters][5] seem to be limited to 4K at 30 Hz, which may be sufficient for watching movies but not recommendable for interaction like office/desktop usage or playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs1794/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tripplite.com/products/multi-stream-transport-mst-hub-technology&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.aten.com/de/de/products/kvm/kvm-switches-f%C3%BCr-den-schreibtisch/cs1964/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.de/CSL-Fernbedienung-Automatische-Umschaltung-Aluminiumgeh%C3%A4use-Schwarz/dp/B079P5SC4K&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47100" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="a28896ea-cf51-4941-8ee6-f5213bd01866" CreationDate="2020-04-02T10:44:27.903" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 1329 edit id of 1063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47104" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13185" RevisionGUID="9a87702a-ecb0-48cc-a405-537de6a7372b" CreationDate="2020-04-02T15:50:24.463" UserId="9825" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="The [Ball Grid Array][1] used in the [Core i5-8350U][2] CPU of the [Thinkpad T480][3] is factory-soldered, and I would not even try to remove it to upgrade the CPU for any one of three choices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Unsoldering and resoldering BGA CPUS is very difficult without factory-level tools&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) The chipset, also permanently soldered onto the motherboard, limits your CPU choices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Laptops are very carefully designed to exhaust waste heat, and adding a hotter CPU likely shortens the lifetime of the other components. You're limited to 25W maximum [TDP][4], 10W normal for safe operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Alternatives:**  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A) If you need more GPU, likely since the T480 relied on the Intel UHD Graphics 620 in the APU, an [external GPU device][5] can be added, connecting via the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C / Intel Thunderbolt 3 (Power Delivery, DisplayPort, Data transfer) interface.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B) You may also consider upgrading the PCIe (NVMe) drive, following instructions starting on page 69 of your [hardware manual][6], if you are bound by drive performance. That would require finding the model of drive you now have before shopping for a [faster drive][7], but Lenovo's tech specs for that device don't show that information. Therefore, I'd suggest (assuming Windows, since you did not mention Linux):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Click &quot;Start&quot; and navigate to the control panel.   &#xD;&#xA;- Select &quot;Systems and Maintenance.&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;- Click the &quot;Device Manager,&quot; then &quot;Disk Drives.&quot; &#xD;&#xA;- You can get detailed information about your hard drive on this screen, including your serial number.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-t-series/ThinkPad-T480/p/22TP2TT4800&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/t480_hmm_en.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.windowscentral.com/best-solid-state-drives-increase-performance-windows-10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47107" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13197" RevisionGUID="a754ec40-0ad6-4523-adb9-070a674a27fe" CreationDate="2020-04-02T16:51:28.590" UserId="10056" Text="I'm going to build a pc for video editing, android studio and gaming at 1080p in future by adding gtx 1650 super but am confused between 3 processors 1. Ryzen 5 1600 at 8.2k 2. Ryzen 5 3500 at 10.5k 3. Ryzen 5 2400g at 9.5k which of them will be suitable for my needs i will not able to buy gpu till three month after this build so getting worry if i go for 1600 or 3500 without gpu how it will boot up but if i go with Apu i have to compromise with cores and threads which leads to more time in export videos at 1080p and 4k so if there is any solution please let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47108" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13197" RevisionGUID="a754ec40-0ad6-4523-adb9-070a674a27fe" CreationDate="2020-04-02T16:51:28.590" UserId="10056" Text="Amd Cpu Or Apu Under 10k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47109" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13197" RevisionGUID="a754ec40-0ad6-4523-adb9-070a674a27fe" CreationDate="2020-04-02T16:51:28.590" UserId="10056" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13197" RevisionGUID="abc1b9ef-08cb-45fa-ad42-b4bdfc600fbc" CreationDate="2020-04-02T17:00:18.117" UserId="10056" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I'm going to build a pc for video editing, android studio and gaming at 1080p in future by adding gtx 1650 super but am confused between 3 processors&#xA;&#xA; 1. Ryzen 5 1600 at 8200 Rs&#xA; 2. Ryzen 5 3500 at 10000 Rs&#xA; 3. Ryzen 5 2400G at 9700 Rs&#xA;&#xA;Which of them will be suitable for my needs i will not able to buy gpu till three month after this build so getting worry if i go for 1600 or 3500 without gpu how it will boot up but if i go with Apu i have to compromise with cores and threads which leads to more time in export videos at 1080p and 4k so if there is any solution please let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47111" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13198" RevisionGUID="56c9897b-15a1-4516-85ba-4264962e4a2f" CreationDate="2020-04-02T17:23:20.353" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Without an APU, you won't be able to use this PC. Ryzen CPUs don't have integrated graphics, and neither do the motherboards for this platform. With that in mind, you have three options:  &#xD;&#xA;1) buy an APU like the 2400G, and live with the lower multi-threaded performance.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Buy a Ryzen CPU and try to source a scrap-level graphics card (aka the cheapest used PCIe graphics card you can find) just to be able to use the PC until the graphics card arrives.  &#xD;&#xA;3) don't use the PC until you can afford a GPU. Which is by far the worst option. If you can't use the PC now, you might as well delay the purchase until you can afford all the parts. PC parts tend to get cheaper over time, and new parts become available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47119" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13202" RevisionGUID="9e7d3711-0199-44d0-9c4d-0638dd5787ca" CreationDate="2020-04-03T02:37:02.363" UserId="15597" Text="I can find all the [bits][1] and [bobs][2] to cobble together something myself, but it would seem that an all in one unit would be a really handy, and obvious, product. Does anyone know of such a device on the market?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY3Z4MH/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/GAT-5V20W-Volt-Splitter-Divided-Ethernet/dp/B07F7P8S36" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47120" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13202" RevisionGUID="9e7d3711-0199-44d0-9c4d-0638dd5787ca" CreationDate="2020-04-03T02:37:02.363" UserId="15597" Text="PoE to USB Type-C with both power and network?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47121" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13202" RevisionGUID="9e7d3711-0199-44d0-9c4d-0638dd5787ca" CreationDate="2020-04-03T02:37:02.363" UserId="15597" Text="&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;poe&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="6fc13f88-2520-466a-af19-7f14a12cc97a" CreationDate="2020-04-03T10:57:47.670" UserId="15601" Text="I have a Thinkpad X1 Yoga, first generation. It has a DisplayPort but no USB-C ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy an external monitor, like the ThinkVision M14 that passes both video and power trough it's USB-C port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any cable that would allow me to connect the ThinkPad Yoga Gen1 to the ThinkVision M14?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47129" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="6fc13f88-2520-466a-af19-7f14a12cc97a" CreationDate="2020-04-03T10:57:47.670" UserId="15601" Text="MiniDIsplay Port to USB-C with Power?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47130" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="6fc13f88-2520-466a-af19-7f14a12cc97a" CreationDate="2020-04-03T10:57:47.670" UserId="15601" Text="&lt;power&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47131" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13154" RevisionGUID="8f7097c2-a09a-41a5-8db2-03fbcbccc697" CreationDate="2020-04-03T13:48:31.627" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link" Text="I have a [Lenovo P51 laptop][1] with the Quadro M2200 graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering if this hardware supports VR gaming? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, would it be possible or sensible to use and external graphics box connected over Thunderbolt? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P51/p/22TP2WPWP51" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47132" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13154" RevisionGUID="8f7097c2-a09a-41a5-8db2-03fbcbccc697" CreationDate="2020-04-03T13:48:31.627" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 1578 edit id of 1065" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13186" RevisionGUID="ca48ae67-573a-4a42-91e2-a9d54d20379b" CreationDate="2020-04-03T15:45:12.710" UserId="1329" Comment="added 969 characters in body" Text="I wanted to upgrade my old Aten [CS1794][1] KVM switch to something that supports 4K and DisplayPort for a long time, but couldn't find something that fits my needs the way the CS1794 did when I bought it about 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Should have DisplayPort support with 4K. HDMI would be nice but is optional.&#xD;&#xA;- Should be able to switch between at least 2 clients (2-port), 4 would be better.&#xD;&#xA;- Switching more than one display or support for [MST][2] would be really nice, but I think that will increase the price a lot. I only have 2 displays at the moment, so the [CS1964][3] is beyond what I need.&#xD;&#xA;- Should have at least USB 3.0. USB Type-C would be nice. USB PD to power the device as well as to power connected devices would be super nice, but I think I'm asking for the impossible.&#xD;&#xA;- Cables longer than 1.5 meter would be good. I'm aware that USB 3.0 suffers from signal degradation beyond 2 meters and certified high quality DisplayPort cables longer than 2 meters were difficult to find and quite thick.&#xD;&#xA;- Price up to 500 €.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there other manufacturers besides Aten competing in the market or will there be some note worthy products in the market in the next let's say 6 months?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HMDI was nice because I could also hook up game consoles. I'm looking into HDMI 2.0 capable switches (like [this][4]) to switch inputs on the monitor and then to the respective console if necessary. I already have more than 4 devices so I need to look into that to, if you have recommendations and lessons learned from your small home office, please share them. [HDMI to DisplayPort converters][5] seem to be limited to 4K at 30 Hz, which may be sufficient for watching movies but not recommendable for interaction like office/desktop usage or playing games.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit 2020-04-03:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On second thought, I bought the CS1794 when:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Displays had one or two inputs out of VGA, DVI and DP. My current displays have 1 to 2 HDMI inputs and 2 DP inputs. 1080p and dual head was state of the art, now it's somewhere between 4K and 8K at demand for data throughput which brings in all kinds of engineering problems.&#xD;&#xA;- I recently upgraded my display mounts to versions with gas springs to increase flexibility working with more laptops. I can now also add a third monitor on top or on the side. I could use a simple USB 3.0 switch or take another look at Symless, even though I initially didn't want to. And I have several keyboards with touchpads or trackpoints.&#xD;&#xA;- Convertibles, MHL and Miracast did not exist or were not as popular and available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that contrary to the demand for display mounts, there is little demand for KVM switches with support for higher resolutions, which makes it an expensive niche market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aten.com/global/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs1794/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tripplite.com/products/multi-stream-transport-mst-hub-technology&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.aten.com/de/de/products/kvm/kvm-switches-f%C3%BCr-den-schreibtisch/cs1964/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.de/CSL-Fernbedienung-Automatische-Umschaltung-Aluminiumgeh%C3%A4use-Schwarz/dp/B079P5SC4K&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47135" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="2ac2ec00-a12f-4a24-bfab-a6682df4f37d" CreationDate="2020-04-03T18:32:23.053" UserId="9825" Comment="Added reference web link" Text="I have a Thinkpad X1 Yoga, first generation. It has a DisplayPort but no USB-C ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy an external monitor, like the [ThinkVision M14][1] that passes both video and power trough it's USB-C port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any cable that would allow me to connect the ThinkPad Yoga Gen1 to the [ThinkVision M14][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/thinkvisionM14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47136" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="2ac2ec00-a12f-4a24-bfab-a6682df4f37d" CreationDate="2020-04-03T18:32:23.053" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 15601 edit id of 1066" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47144" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="95dc7d21-fe38-478d-a5b1-dbbd34743238" CreationDate="2020-04-04T01:05:23.730" UserId="15603" Text="I am in search of earbuds that have a good quality mic, that sounds almost professional, but also under 100 USD, i don't care about the quality of the sound nor comfort." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47145" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="95dc7d21-fe38-478d-a5b1-dbbd34743238" CreationDate="2020-04-04T01:05:23.730" UserId="15603" Text="Earbuds with good quality mic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47146" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="95dc7d21-fe38-478d-a5b1-dbbd34743238" CreationDate="2020-04-04T01:05:23.730" UserId="15603" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47147" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13180" RevisionGUID="14837e9e-865f-4d62-91f1-52d298be5f82" CreationDate="2020-04-04T02:47:26.963" UserId="14280" Comment="added 321 characters in body" Text="Your Lenovo P51 Laptop may be able to run VR if you use an external GPU box (also called eGPU's) because you have a Thunderbolt 3 port, which is what that uses. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU boxes: [Razer Core X][1] (In RGB and Non-RGB 'flavors') and [Gigabyte GPU Box][2] with a [Nvidia RTX 2080ti][3], [Nvidia RTX 2070][4], [Nvidia GTX 1080][5], [Nvidia GTX 1070][6], or [AMD RX 580][7] GPU's&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wanted the Razer Core X, you would need to pair it with a minimum of a GTX 1060. I strongly recommend you getting a GTX 1660Ti over the GTX 1060 because new GTX 1060's are hard to find, and going to be expensive for an older piece of hardware. The GTX 1660TI is the best bang for the buck that would run VR. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you wanted the Gigabyte's GPU box, I would purchase one with an Nvidia GTX 1080, Nvidia GTX 1070 or an AMD RX 580. &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;These are the GPUs that will work and I recommend, in order of most to least powerful:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. RTX 2060 Super&#xD;&#xA;2. GTX 1070ti&#xD;&#xA;3. RTX 2060&#xD;&#xA;4. GTX 1070&#xD;&#xA;5. GTX 1660Ti&#xD;&#xA;6. GTX 1660 Super&#xD;&#xA;7. GTX 1660&#xD;&#xA;8. GTX 1060&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't buy anything above an RTX 2060 Super without buying a laptop, where at that point, I'd find a laptop with an RTX 2060 or higher in it because you're going to be saving money at that point (and maybe even some bottlenecking from happening).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some GPU links that I like (In order from least to most powerful):   &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1060 (Minimum) $400][8]  &#xD;&#xA;[Nvidia GTX 1660Ti $300][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Thank you [MechEng][10] and [K7AAY][11] for adding the information about the Gigabyte eGPU and pricing of GPU's to put in the eGPU, I'm sure 'Barrymac' appreciated it as much as I do)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/Gaming-Box&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TIXEB-11GC#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N2070IXEB-8GC#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-RX580IXEB-8GD#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-gaming-x-6g/p/N82E16814127963&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gv-n166toc-6gd/p/N82E16814932131&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/9825/k7aay&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/13807/mecheng" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47149" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="80a439e4-60a4-4a22-a9e7-9ee3147d610c" CreationDate="2020-04-04T06:01:35.190" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47162" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13208" RevisionGUID="6f1c18be-87a6-44a4-b6d1-fd3248cc3c06" CreationDate="2020-04-04T13:57:26.297" UserId="15610" Text="I have an intel i7 8th gen cpu with 1.8 - 3.6 GHz cpu frequency.&#xD;&#xA;I haven't managed to boost my cpu frequency to the 3.6 max, so it usually tops at 1.78 - 1.9 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;I have noticed that, for no apparent reason, my computer starts slowing down and when I look at the task manager it says that my frequency is 0.40 GHz.&#xD;&#xA;Most of the time my cpu doesn't overheat when it slows down, it just starts to slow down for a few minutes and then goes back to the 1.78 GHz limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any of you could tell me what could be the cause of that, and how do I solve it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I have already set in the power settings to run on 100%)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;also, if any one could tell me how to I do the Boost frequency thing, it'll be much appreciated :) " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47163" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13208" RevisionGUID="6f1c18be-87a6-44a4-b6d1-fd3248cc3c06" CreationDate="2020-04-04T13:57:26.297" UserId="15610" Text="Cpu speed slowing down occasionally" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47164" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13208" RevisionGUID="6f1c18be-87a6-44a4-b6d1-fd3248cc3c06" CreationDate="2020-04-04T13:57:26.297" UserId="15610" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13209" RevisionGUID="2f9409d5-b950-4783-9907-c98bb81b6c31" CreationDate="2020-04-04T17:10:02.780" UserId="14280" Text="The GPU is probably thermal throttling, even if it doesn't seem hot or the CPU doesn't need to use all 1.8GHz of power so it slows itself and just uses what it needs. I would make sure that the fan intake/outtakes are clear and not blocked. You can also open up the computer and take a can of compressed air and blow out the fans. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To get the boost frequency, shut the computer down and restart it, as it is booting press F12 (that is the common key to get into the BIOS, but it can be a different F# key). In the BIOS you can find the Intel Turbo Boost feature somewhere, it depends on what your brand of computer or motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47166" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13209" RevisionGUID="304087c8-f0c3-4b12-846c-2ec30f673f2c" CreationDate="2020-04-04T17:16:28.710" UserId="14280" Comment="added 187 characters in body" Text="The GPU is probably thermal throttling, even if it doesn't seem hot or the CPU doesn't need to use all 1.8GHz of power so it slows itself and just uses what it needs. I would make sure that the fan intake/outtakes are clear and not blocked. You can also open up the computer and take a can of compressed air and blow out the fans. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To get the boost frequency, shut the computer down and restart it, as it is booting press F12 (that is the common key to get into the BIOS, but it can be a different F# key). In the BIOS you can find the Intel Turbo Boost feature somewhere, it depends on what your brand of computer or motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just letting you know, that this is off-topic for hardware recommendations, unless if you are asking for a way to cool your computer better. I believe this fits better in 'Super User'" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47167" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="889c962d-ae83-4b82-8f2b-b1ca9b747dc6" CreationDate="2020-04-04T19:00:40.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47171" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="37859f42-f622-4c89-83e5-0b11339d3a56" CreationDate="2020-04-05T02:01:50.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47179" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="aaa97afe-1736-4383-aed4-43faf5316000" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:01:00.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13212" RevisionGUID="8ce2632f-0536-41ad-8a91-462467615ea7" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:55:05.097" UserId="9825" Text="This [BBC article][1] documents how some printers [secretly print faint dots][2] which [identify the printer][3] as well as the date and time a page is printed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How do I choose a printer which won't do this? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://getpocket.com/explore/item/why-printers-add-secret-tracking-dots&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://blog.erratasec.com/2017/06/how-intercept-outed-reality-winner.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Identification_Code" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47181" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13212" RevisionGUID="8ce2632f-0536-41ad-8a91-462467615ea7" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:55:05.097" UserId="9825" Text="How do I avoid my printed pages tracking me?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47182" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13212" RevisionGUID="8ce2632f-0536-41ad-8a91-462467615ea7" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:55:05.097" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;printer&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47183" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13213" RevisionGUID="fa11e574-37cf-4fef-aabe-44a200f6abd8" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:55:05.097" UserId="9825" Text="Don't buy or use a color laser printer. The [EFF has been advised][1] &quot;all major manufacturers of color laser printers entered a secret agreement with governments to ensure that the output of those printers is forensically traceable&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.eff.org/pages/list-printers-which-do-or-do-not-display-tracking-dots" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47184" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="0d842e59-ce5b-4f99-af2b-400fe3a721bb" CreationDate="2020-04-05T23:02:25.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47185" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="138a3ce4-c041-4596-9e18-47fa233a1823" CreationDate="2020-04-06T00:02:30.357" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47187" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13214" RevisionGUID="2a9d037e-db2e-4cfe-b620-8d4920c6f71f" CreationDate="2020-04-06T11:26:04.820" UserId="15617" Text="Is there a device that allows two or more connected USB devices to communicate, yet their power be supplied by an external source (such as a USB power bank or charger).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to make this illustration to clarify what I mean.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TS885.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47188" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13214" RevisionGUID="2a9d037e-db2e-4cfe-b620-8d4920c6f71f" CreationDate="2020-04-06T11:26:04.820" UserId="15617" Text="A USB C device with Pass-through Data between devices and External Charger" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47189" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13214" RevisionGUID="2a9d037e-db2e-4cfe-b620-8d4920c6f71f" CreationDate="2020-04-06T11:26:04.820" UserId="15617" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47193" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13216" RevisionGUID="aa75655b-ee7e-4478-9afb-34ef1795ee56" CreationDate="2020-04-06T16:33:11.123" UserId="15619" Text="I am new to blender snd I have been using my old laptop but the performance is too bad, so I wanted to change my laptop, so what is the best laptop with better graphics under 90,000 rupees or 1200 us dollars&#xD;&#xA;I have been gone through some basic specifications like intel core i7 ram 6 GB or more graphics more than 4 GB but I can get find a good laptop with these specifications so pls help me find a good laptop&#xD;&#xA;for rendering nicely" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47194" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13216" RevisionGUID="aa75655b-ee7e-4478-9afb-34ef1795ee56" CreationDate="2020-04-06T16:33:11.123" UserId="15619" Text="i want to buy a budget laptop for blender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47195" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13216" RevisionGUID="aa75655b-ee7e-4478-9afb-34ef1795ee56" CreationDate="2020-04-06T16:33:11.123" UserId="15619" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47198" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="46f8353c-42d2-4dd5-ac52-c33173228cb1" CreationDate="2020-04-06T17:02:15.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47199" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13217" RevisionGUID="b19d68d8-41ad-4220-928f-21f9e2074d85" CreationDate="2020-04-06T21:00:43.620" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Thanks to the new AMD Ryzen 4000 mobile CPUs, a few laptops are about to hit the shelves whith exactly the specs you need, and within your price point. For example the Asus TUF Gaming A15 (90NR03L2-M04070).  &#xD;&#xA;CPU: Ryzen 7 4800H with 8 Zen2 cores, just what you want for Blender  &#xD;&#xA;GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: 512GB NVMe  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB as a single SO-DIMM. I recommend upgrading to 16GB with a second 8GB SO-DIMM  &#xD;&#xA;And a nice 1080P IPS panel with 144Hz refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is marketed as a gaming laptop with all the questionable design choices that come with it, but the specs make it pretty much ideal for your requirements at that price point.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47200" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13218" RevisionGUID="fd1c77bb-f452-4f02-93d6-45a5ef9489e8" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:14:43.660" UserId="7103" Text="I am in the market for a color laser MFC for home office use.  I have a fairly complex set of requirements which I can assess myself, however I am struggling with a few elements of this problem, and would appreciate insights from those with more knowledge then I have.  FWIW, I am aware of the differences between Laser and Inkjet printers, and I definately don't want an inkjet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is my belief that new laser printers (ie less then 5 years old) are not substantially better then printers which are 5-10 years old with respect of quality correct?  If not what should I be looking for in terms of improvements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I look online, it appears that new printers are an order of magnitude more expensive to run, due to the lack of easy availability of after market cartridges.     For Is there any reason why I should get, for example, the HP MFP-M479 as opposed to the MFP-M477 ?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Relatedly, for things like reliability, cost, ease of use with multiple OS's, how does the HP MFP-M477 compare with the Brother MFC-9340CDW, and are either of these printers better in terms of &quot;antifeatures&quot; like toner DRM, yellow dot tracking, telemetry?   [ I believe these printers were introduced in 2015 and 2013 respectively ]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Relatedly, and getting really obscure, is it practical to plug  a keyboard into either or both if I want to scan to email and enter a recipient and subject line from the printer itself?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47201" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13218" RevisionGUID="fd1c77bb-f452-4f02-93d6-45a5ef9489e8" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:14:43.660" UserId="7103" Text="How to compare low-mid range color laser printers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47202" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13218" RevisionGUID="fd1c77bb-f452-4f02-93d6-45a5ef9489e8" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:14:43.660" UserId="7103" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;laser&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13220" RevisionGUID="78544838-e55e-4a64-804a-ea5656dc7ea4" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:33:03.800" UserId="15621" Text="Looking for advice on building a 8/12 bay NAS server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm considering building a custom 2U rack mount NAS server build, and found the majority of the parts I need, but I don't understand if the motherboard/OS(_FreeNAS_) will support the barebone case backplane.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are backplanes standardized enough that I can just plug into a standard motherboard, or do I need a specific interface card that I need to buy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Currently looking at a 8/12 bay NAS case from INNOVISION via aliexpress&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47207" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13220" RevisionGUID="78544838-e55e-4a64-804a-ea5656dc7ea4" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:33:03.800" UserId="15621" Text="Custom rack 8-12 drive NAS build backplane support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47208" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13220" RevisionGUID="78544838-e55e-4a64-804a-ea5656dc7ea4" CreationDate="2020-04-07T01:33:03.800" UserId="15621" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;nas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47209" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13221" RevisionGUID="7e2f9247-3d89-4494-861c-4fb695826cd1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T02:57:12.313" UserId="7532" Text="There are plenty of hubs that have power passthrough. [Here][1] is one that I use that works great. Since you want to have an attached device that is also USB-C, I would recommend [this one][2]. You plug your main device (phone/laptop) into the cable that comes off, your USB-C device that is the slave (flash memory, etc) into the bottom port, and the charger plugs into the port on the side. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHD3VC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hL-IEbCYN92YV&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF5489G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TN-IEbSBM86Q4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47212" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="6ee0d23c-37d8-4e8f-9cb6-1b9c4a6a111a" CreationDate="2020-04-07T07:01:45.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47219" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="9e3701f6-70a4-41f0-bf8c-b6cd99d2ec00" CreationDate="2020-04-07T18:04:53.177" UserId="15623" Text="An image is a 2d array wuth each point denoting a color combination of basic RGB(a pixel basically). So, when it is displayed or relayed to laptop/desktop monitor, how does it work? Is the monitor a 2d array, i.e, if we open up the monitor are we supposed to see any grid structure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47220" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="9e3701f6-70a4-41f0-bf8c-b6cd99d2ec00" CreationDate="2020-04-07T18:04:53.177" UserId="15623" Text="Is laptop/desktop monitor screen a 2d array?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47221" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="9e3701f6-70a4-41f0-bf8c-b6cd99d2ec00" CreationDate="2020-04-07T18:04:53.177" UserId="15623" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47226" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13221" RevisionGUID="b38e4973-3b13-4990-8e52-cffc75aff037" CreationDate="2020-04-07T20:10:55.557" UserId="7532" Comment="Added complexity to distinguish two different products" Text="USB-C hubs with power pass-through are fairly common. Often sold with the [Power Delivery (PD)][1] mark followed by the power rating for that device. [Here][2] is one such hub that I use regularly to connect peripherals and charge simultaneously. However, this hub does not have a USB-C slave connection. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hubs that also have a port for a USB-C slave device are more rare. Since you want to have an attached device that is also USB-C, I would recommend [this one][3]. You plug your main device (phone/laptop) into male connection, your USB-C device that is the slave (flash memory, etc) into the bottom port, and the charger plugs into the port on the side. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;       Laptop ---[_Hub_]---- Phone&#xD;&#xA;                   |&#xD;&#xA;                Charger&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHD3VC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hL-IEbCYN92YV&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF5489G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TN-IEbSBM86Q4&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47228" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13225" RevisionGUID="51566d62-3177-46e5-a1e2-e2940e7ed4db" CreationDate="2020-04-07T20:35:36.427" UserId="9825" Text="You won't see a grid, as human vision isn't good enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's engage in [gedankenexperiment][1]. Let's pretend your 19&quot; (diagonal) display is 1920x1280, in a 16:9 aspect ratio. The line from A to B, or the line **c**, below is 19&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Illustration of right triangle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c^2 = a^2 + b^2 as per the [Pythagorean theorem][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19*19 = a^2 + b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = a^2 + b^2  where a = (9/16)b  (from our 16:9 aspect ratio)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = (9/16)b*(9/16)b+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361= 81/144*b^2+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 0.5625*b^2+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 1.5625*b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;231.04 = b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.2&quot; = b which has 1,920 pixels so there are 126.3 pixels per inch. You can't see that fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.britannica.com/science/Gedankenexperiment&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_triangle#Pythagorean_theorem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13225" RevisionGUID="3bffafb4-593d-4679-93b4-8faa348fc0c1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T21:29:28.793" UserId="9825" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="You won't see a grid, as human vision isn't good enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's engage in [gedankenexperiment][1]. Let's pretend your 19&quot; (diagonal) display is 1920x1280, in a 16:9 aspect ratio. (*Please substitute your own data for the display diagonal, horizontal, and vertical size.*) The line from A to B, or the line **c**, below is 19&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Illustration of right triangle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;c^2 = a^2 + b^2 as per the [Pythagorean theorem][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19*19 = a^2 + b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = a^2 + b^2  where a = (9/16)b  (from our 16:9 aspect ratio)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = (9/16)b*(9/16)b+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361= 81/144*b^2+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 0.5625*b^2+b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 1.5625*b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;231.04 = b^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.2&quot; = b which has 1,920 pixels so there are 126.3 pixels per inch. You can't see that fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.britannica.com/science/Gedankenexperiment&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_triangle#Pythagorean_theorem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47230" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13225" RevisionGUID="9ade04ef-6f99-4734-9af5-e50ba905c9d2" CreationDate="2020-04-07T22:32:50.760" UserId="9825" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="You won't see a grid, as human vision isn't good enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's engage in [gedankenexperiment][1]. Let's pretend your 19&quot; (diagonal) display is 1920x1280, in a 16:9 aspect ratio. (*Please substitute your own data for the display diagonal, horizontal, and vertical size.*) The line from A to B, or the line *c*, below is 19&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Illustration of right triangle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*c*^2 = *a*^2 + *b*^2 as per the [Pythagorean theorem][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19*19 = *a*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = *a*^2 + *b*^2  where *a* = (9/16) times *b*  (derived from our 16:9 aspect ratio)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = (9/16)*b* times (9/16)*b* + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361= 81/144 times *b*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 0.5625 times *b*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 1.5625 times *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;231.04 = *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.2&quot; = *b* which has 1,920 pixels, so there are 126.3 pixels per inch. You can't see that fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.britannica.com/science/Gedankenexperiment&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_triangle#Pythagorean_theorem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47232" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13208" RevisionGUID="2d9fa339-f30e-4419-9287-9d69505f58ae" CreationDate="2020-04-07T22:37:14.693" UserId="9825" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47234" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13225" RevisionGUID="8779ed4b-1f6e-425c-b1aa-fe543614310f" CreationDate="2020-04-07T23:08:21.767" UserId="9825" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="Yes, it is a two dimensional array.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You won't see a grid, as human vision isn't good enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's engage in [gedankenexperiment][1]. Let's pretend your 19&quot; (diagonal) display is 1920x1280, in a 16:9 aspect ratio. (*Please substitute your own data for the display diagonal, horizontal, and vertical size.*) The line from A to B, or the line *c*, below is 19&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Illustration of right triangle][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*c*^2 = *a*^2 + *b*^2 as per the [Pythagorean theorem][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19*19 = *a*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = *a*^2 + *b*^2  where *a* = (9/16) times *b*  (derived from our 16:9 aspect ratio)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = (9/16)*b* times (9/16)*b* + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361= 81/144 times *b*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 0.5625 times *b*^2 + *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;361 = 1.5625 times *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;231.04 = *b*^2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;15.2&quot; = *b* which has 1,920 pixels, so there are 126.3 pixels per inch. You can't see that fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.britannica.com/science/Gedankenexperiment&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_triangle#Pythagorean_theorem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="c5ec00d6-0f65-4bbd-ac63-834dec5dde1b" CreationDate="2020-04-08T03:28:44.277" UserId="9825" Comment="Spelling and grammar" Text="An image is a 2d array with each point denoting a color combination of basic RGB (one pixel, basically). So, when it is displayed or relayed to laptop/desktop monitor, how does it work? Is the monitor a 2d array, i.e, if we open up the monitor are we supposed to see any grid structure?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47237" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="c5ec00d6-0f65-4bbd-ac63-834dec5dde1b" CreationDate="2020-04-08T03:28:44.277" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 15623 edit id of 1068" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47238" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13227" RevisionGUID="01c450f8-9788-42a3-8e70-1fa16d9bc09d" CreationDate="2020-04-08T04:33:40.700" UserId="9825" Text="A review of &#xD;&#xA;[Brother MFC-9340CDW specifications][1], the &#xD;&#xA;[HP MFP-M477 data sheet][2], and the  &#xD;&#xA;[HP MFP-M479 data sheet][3]  &#xD;&#xA;does not show any have the ability to accept input from either a USB-attached or wireless connected keyboard to use it to scan a document and enter a recipient to email directly from those printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Electronic Freedom Foundation [has written][4] _it is probably safest to assume that all modern color laser printers do include some form of tracking information that associates documents with the printer's serial number._&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the Brother color laser printers to be equal to HP color laser printers in terms of their ease of use with Debian based Linux, as well as with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not encountered DRM restrictions on supplies with Brother printers, whereas I have with HP printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/spec.aspx?c=us_ot&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=mfc9340cdw_all&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www8.hp.com/h20195/V2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa6-0843eee&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=4aa7-4862enuc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.eff.org/pages/list-printers-which-do-or-do-not-display-tracking-dots" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47239" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13224" RevisionGUID="1cefc7ed-de5f-4499-a254-4b69dbf8f6a5" CreationDate="2020-04-08T08:46:27.410" UserId="1190" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:1190,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Thomas Weller&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47241" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13227" RevisionGUID="bd552b94-4738-40ee-8f9e-cb57502e7001" CreationDate="2020-04-08T17:36:01.030" UserId="9825" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="A review of   &#xD;&#xA;[Brother's MFC-9340CDW specifications][1], the   &#xD;&#xA;[HP MFP-M477 data sheet][2], and the  &#xD;&#xA;[HP MFP-M479 data sheet][3]  &#xD;&#xA;does not show any have the ability to accept input from either a USB-attached or wireless connected keyboard to use it to scan a document and enter a recipient to email directly from those printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Electronic Freedom Foundation [has written][4] _it is probably safest to assume that all modern color laser printers do include some form of tracking information that associates documents with the printer's serial number._&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have found the Brother color laser printers to be equal to HP color laser printers in terms of their ease of use with Debian based Linux, as well as with Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have not encountered DRM restrictions on supplies with Brother printers, whereas I have with HP printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/spec.aspx?c=us_ot&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=mfc9340cdw_all&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www8.hp.com/h20195/V2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa6-0843eee&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=4aa7-4862enuc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.eff.org/pages/list-printers-which-do-or-do-not-display-tracking-dots" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47244" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="f414ac80-d3cf-4a17-87db-c9f5c421b08a" CreationDate="2020-04-08T20:01:05.190" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47245" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13022" RevisionGUID="0bcd67b6-a21d-4452-89ac-09a881997839" CreationDate="2020-04-08T21:00:08.027" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47246" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13228" RevisionGUID="247be3b5-5d6e-44cf-81b7-51503e2b7ae0" CreationDate="2020-04-08T23:20:41.190" UserId="15626" Text="I would like to make some significant upgrades to my home network which, right now, is comprised of a cable modem, wireless router, and a few wireless devices in various rooms. But wireless is nowhere near as fast as a wired connection, plus I'm adding some PoE cameras which will obviously require PoE. The hardware I need is pretty clear, but I'm concerned about running Ethernet cable in my attic considering that I live in Las Vegas, NV, which is EXTREMELY hot in the summer months (sometimes 115 degrees F). My assumption is that the attic probably exceeds the maximum operating temperature of most Ethernet cables (some are rated for up to 167 degrees F), but I don't actually know the precise temperature in the attic during the summer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given that Las Vegas is a modern city I can only presume that others have overcome this issue. Or maybe I'm overestimating the heat in my attic. My roof uses a light-colored terracotta tile, so I'm sure that's better than a black roof but don't really know. Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47247" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13228" RevisionGUID="247be3b5-5d6e-44cf-81b7-51503e2b7ae0" CreationDate="2020-04-08T23:20:41.190" UserId="15626" Text="Cat6A Runs in Hot Attic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47248" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13228" RevisionGUID="247be3b5-5d6e-44cf-81b7-51503e2b7ae0" CreationDate="2020-04-08T23:20:41.190" UserId="15626" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13229" RevisionGUID="bed49177-48ab-475f-9161-38ab68deabcc" CreationDate="2020-04-08T23:42:29.327" UserId="9825" Text="1) Use Plenum rated cable which is more heat tolerant, such as [L-Com bulk cable][1], which tolerates up to 105 degrees Centigrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Add [solar powered soffit fans][2] to cool the attic space, which has the beneficial side effect of lowering your A/C cost. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Do both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.l-com.com/ethernet-cat6a-f-utp-cmp-plenum-rated-high-temp-105-degree-28awg-4-pair-stranded-slim-line-blue-1kft&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=solar%20powered%20soffit%20fans" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47250" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13230" RevisionGUID="1fe87a80-4315-42df-bd67-b230c7ee4431" CreationDate="2020-04-09T03:25:39.543" UserId="6923" Text="I got my hands on an old PC heat sink, intel 775 I think.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will this fit on my i5-8400 8th gen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if it does, what side does it go on? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The copper core is indented on one side and sticks out the other&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ceiOI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JReHU.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47251" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13230" RevisionGUID="1fe87a80-4315-42df-bd67-b230c7ee4431" CreationDate="2020-04-09T03:25:39.543" UserId="6923" Text="Will old Intel copper heat sink fit on new 8th generation CPU?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47252" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13230" RevisionGUID="1fe87a80-4315-42df-bd67-b230c7ee4431" CreationDate="2020-04-09T03:25:39.543" UserId="6923" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47253" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13231" RevisionGUID="111c2dcd-3c58-4407-8a9e-4f7f4728d954" CreationDate="2020-04-09T04:31:53.410" UserId="9825" Text="It isn't going to fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LGA [775 socket CPUs][1] are a different form factor, 37.5mm square, than the [i5-8400][2] which uses an LGA 1151 socket. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The distance between the screw-holes for the heatsink of an LGA 775 is 72 mm. Such heatsinks are not interchangeable with heatsinks for sockets that have a distance of 75 mm, such as the i5-8400 which uses the LGA 1151 socket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_775&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/126687/intel-core-i5-8400-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-00-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47254" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10104" RevisionGUID="6f03ddfe-16ba-46ce-b224-d46a8609bba3" CreationDate="2020-04-09T09:02:35.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47258" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13233" RevisionGUID="59215292-780b-4ba4-a1a2-b8f8f6ad94e8" CreationDate="2020-04-09T09:49:27.143" UserId="15627" Text="What does the Cross-Platform Rating in a Price performance comparison page of a CPU on [PassMark](https://www.passmark.com/) mean? What kind of performance does it reflect? It seems the kind of performance it reflects is more like what Average CPU Mark does, which is basically multi-core performance. If so, what is the difference between these 2 numbers?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More specifically in my case, I am comparing these 3 CPUs to decide which one to buy: [AMD Ryzen 7 3800X vs AMD Ryzen 9 3900X vs AMD Ryzen 9 3950X](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/AMD-Ryzen-7-3800X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3950X/3499vs3493vs3598). The CPU Mark of the 3900X is lower than 3/2 of that of the 3800X, while the Cross-Platform Rating of the 3900X is higher than 3/2 of that of the 3800X. I am going after multi-core performance, so I am wondering whether the 3900X gives me 3/2 of multi-core performance compared to the 3800X." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47259" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13233" RevisionGUID="59215292-780b-4ba4-a1a2-b8f8f6ad94e8" CreationDate="2020-04-09T09:49:27.143" UserId="15627" Text="What does the Cross-Platform Rating on PassMark mean? What kind of performance does it reflect?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47260" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13233" RevisionGUID="59215292-780b-4ba4-a1a2-b8f8f6ad94e8" CreationDate="2020-04-09T09:49:27.143" UserId="15627" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47261" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13234" RevisionGUID="6c2ef6a7-fb63-44bd-a369-ec99bed60ea2" CreationDate="2020-04-09T10:20:57.697" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="From Passmarks own version log: https://www.passmark.com/products/performancetest/history.php&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just that: a bunch of benchmarks cobbled together into a single score. Only the devs know how well these benchmarks scale to multiple threads, and how they weigh the individual results to condense them into a final score. So maybe don't focus too much on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's rather look at the CPUs themselves. A 3900X has a 50% higher core count compared to a 3800X. And it increases almost all CPU resources by at least 50%. Some shared resources like L3 cache even increase by 100%. If we stopped here, it would be safe to assume that the 3900X is 50% faster than the 3800X, at least in multi-threaded benchmarks with ideal scaling.&#xD;&#xA;With 2 notable exceptions:  &#xD;&#xA;1) Thermal design power is the same. This causes the 3900X to run at lower clock speeds when all cores are loaded heavily. Dropping the performance increase to a bit less than 50%, at least if the user does not overclock.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Memory bandwidth. While the 3900X has almost double the write memory bandwidth compared to the 3800X (due to 2 chiplets vs. 1 and limited bandwidth from chiplets to the IO-die), the read memory bandwidth is practically the same. This causes less than 50% performance advantage in benchmarks (and applications) that become memory bandwidth limited at higher thread counts.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In conclusion: The 3900X can be nearly 50% faster than the 3800X in multi-threaded benchmarks and applications. But as always, it depends on the application.&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xcZi.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47262" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13235" RevisionGUID="a55c0287-4ec4-4f4b-966c-27005d4174d6" CreationDate="2020-04-09T10:38:37.663" UserId="15628" Text="I have a 13in MacBook Pro (late 2011). System Info as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;      Model Identifier:	MacBookPro8,1&#xD;&#xA;      Processor Name:	Intel Core i5&#xD;&#xA;      Processor Speed:	2.4 GHz&#xD;&#xA;      Number of Processors:	1&#xD;&#xA;      Total Number of Cores:	2&#xD;&#xA;      L2 Cache (per Core):	256 KB&#xD;&#xA;      L3 Cache:	3 MB&#xD;&#xA;      Memory:	8 GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mainly use it for dev work - Android Studio/XCode. Recently it's been very slow, and it'll soon be at the point where it's unusable.  I've tried everything I can find online, like clearing junk, de-duplicating files etc. I've reached the point where I think I need to upgrade either the RAM or the hard drive (to SSD).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations on which is likely to improve performance more? I suspect RAM is more of an issue, but I don't know all that much about it.  In that case, any recommendations on which RAM to get, what factors I need to consider, what additional bits I'd need to buy (cables etc)? Are they different connections/sizes or anything like that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47263" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13235" RevisionGUID="a55c0287-4ec4-4f4b-966c-27005d4174d6" CreationDate="2020-04-09T10:38:37.663" UserId="15628" Text="Upgrade MacBook Pro (2011) RAM or SSD?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47264" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13235" RevisionGUID="a55c0287-4ec4-4f4b-966c-27005d4174d6" CreationDate="2020-04-09T10:38:37.663" UserId="15628" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47265" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="3acbe7f9-0544-4080-a287-2abe395cea57" CreationDate="2020-04-09T12:02:10.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47266" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="b0fec95b-507e-462e-984d-161d75f462d8" CreationDate="2020-04-09T13:01:50.410" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47268" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13236" RevisionGUID="50150e69-b607-4048-ab90-d11ed3b3a650" CreationDate="2020-04-09T16:19:29.413" UserId="7532" Text="I personally use the [Euasoo model][1] that you linked. I have used it across Desktop, Laptop, and Phone for almost a year now and it has worked great. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The name brands are unlikely to offer anything like what you want. The big fruit, would much rather sell 25 separate dongles that provide this functionality and charge $60 for each. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07GDHD3VC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47269" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="98f6c8a5-1461-43ee-b63b-640463c5e907" CreationDate="2020-04-09T17:01:40.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47270" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13237" RevisionGUID="ab2932fc-d93a-4bcc-8dfa-483f6a6274de" CreationDate="2020-04-09T17:53:11.727" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Let me start with the obvious: this is a 9 year old laptop. So putting time and effort into upgrading it should be up for debate. Especially since you won't be able to re-use any of these upgrades in a new laptop, at least if you stay with Apples current lineup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first and pretty much mandatory step for a 9 year old laptop will cost you almost nothing: clean the fan and heatsink, and apply new thermal paste. Here is a video about replacing the heat sink, which might not be necessary for you. But you can still see what needs to be done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tL2TaoomHkc  &#xD;&#xA;If you don't feel confident doing this on your own, repair shops should offer this kind of maintenance for 50$ or less. Again, it is debatable whether dropping money on such an old laptop is worth it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;About the SSD vs. RAM question: I have used laptops of similar age with and without an SSD, and the difference is night and day. Not for CPU intensive work like compile times, but the overall &quot;snappiness&quot; of the device is greatly improved. You can use most regular 2.5&quot; SATA SSDs for this upgrade. Samsungs 860 Evo series is a very popular choice, and will cost you around 90$ for 500GB of storage. You can either replace the current hard drive, or ad the SSD instead of the optical drive. Here is a great video explaining the options and the steps involved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQyKcDpP6kc  &#xD;&#xA;And Ifixit has guides for this: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Late+2011+Dual+Hard+Drive/13786&#xD;&#xA;And again, if you will ever upgrade to a current Macbook, you won't be able to re-use this SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And RAM: this really depends on your use-case. 8GB is not too shabby for regular use. But depending on the size of your projects and how many applications you like to use/have open at the same time, it might be a limiting factor for you. The easiest way to find out is by monitoring memory usage when you feel like your device is getting too slow. Your Laptop can be upgraded up to 16GB of RAM. The video linked earlier also explains this step. And of course Ifixit to the rescue: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Late+2011+RAM+Replacement/7651  &#xD;&#xA;Pretty much every DDR3 SODIMM modules with 8GB capacity should work. Your laptop officially supports only 8GB of memory maximum, but people have successfully upgraded to 16GB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47272" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13238" RevisionGUID="b07dd194-908e-45ce-8896-74bf7444e744" CreationDate="2020-04-09T18:58:02.150" UserId="15631" Text="I need to replace my Toshiba Satellite L655-13X battery with a new one. The batteries I found are for L655-S5083, and L655-S5150. They appear to be the same in the picture to my battery. However, how can I confirm? The description doesn't say anything about compatibility with other models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is: how to know if all Toshiba Satellite L655-* are the same in terms of battery physical structure?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand that I need to have the exact same voltage. More mAh and/or Wh is better. The problem is with the size." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47273" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13238" RevisionGUID="b07dd194-908e-45ce-8896-74bf7444e744" CreationDate="2020-04-09T18:58:02.150" UserId="15631" Text="Laptop Series Battery Compatability" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47274" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13238" RevisionGUID="b07dd194-908e-45ce-8896-74bf7444e744" CreationDate="2020-04-09T18:58:02.150" UserId="15631" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47285" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="aff9968d-b8b4-4834-bd7d-bb4ac09e199f" CreationDate="2020-04-10T00:01:45.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13244" RevisionGUID="38603e2a-852e-4729-8eb8-b89c000362d3" CreationDate="2020-04-10T05:57:02.727" UserId="9825" Text="Contact a sales rep at Batteries Plus which has a [very detailed set of choices][1] for Toshiba L655 series batteries. Make it a 'condition of sale' that it must fit. If the sales rep quibbles or won't agree to the stipulation, that's a red flag, because it guarantees your bank or credit card company _will_ chargeback against them if it doesn't work or fit. Vendors _hate_ chargebacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/laptop/toshiba/satellite-l655-series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47295" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13246" RevisionGUID="e07f0f87-f462-4fe6-87c1-84b60c35ecbf" CreationDate="2020-04-10T11:38:28.883" UserId="15635" Text="I found some Canton passive speakers and connected them with an audio jack cable to my PC but nothing happened. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;I did some research and found out that these are passive speakers and they need an amplifier. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I looked for an amplifier on Amazon and found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought amplifiers were big chunks so I am not sure this little thing does the work of the middleman to play music from my laptop to the speakers.&#xD;&#xA;The amp specs are;&#xD;&#xA;Elegiant 30 W * 2 Mini Bluetooth Amplifier Aluminium&#xD;&#xA;2.0 Audio Stereo&#xD;&#xA;Digital Wireless for Car Moto Tablet PC Smartphone TV iPod iPhone iPad Notebooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know if that amp will work and what else do I need to make this work?&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJwTt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/r792r.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47296" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13246" RevisionGUID="e07f0f87-f462-4fe6-87c1-84b60c35ecbf" CreationDate="2020-04-10T11:38:28.883" UserId="15635" Text="Will this amplifier connect these speakers to my PC?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47297" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13246" RevisionGUID="e07f0f87-f462-4fe6-87c1-84b60c35ecbf" CreationDate="2020-04-10T11:38:28.883" UserId="15635" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;amplifiers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47302" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13246" RevisionGUID="5e3f75d6-973d-4c42-a513-1d78217ca0fb" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:00:04.790" UserId="15635" Comment="deleted 41 characters in body" Text="I found some Canton passive speakers and connected them with an audio jack cable to my PC but nothing happened. &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;I did some research and found out that these are passive speakers and they need an amplifier. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I looked for an amplifier on Amazon and found this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought amplifiers were big chunks so I am not sure this little thing does the work of the middleman to play music from my laptop to the speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The amp Amazon link: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01LY7RYQO/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=verst%C3%A4rker&amp;qid=1586534369&amp;sr=8-10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know if that amp will work and what else do I need to make this work?&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJwTt.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/r792r.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47303" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13247" RevisionGUID="8200ba24-a508-496e-ae64-426852f3de20" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:18:01.780" UserId="9825" Text="The cable for dual RCA jack audio output and also for 3.5mm ring-sleeve-tip auto jack output is included with the device, as is the power supply, so it's complete. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For one Euro less, I would go for the https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07W4JHGKS/ which includes the 3.5mm cable and delivers 50W RMS, but the reviews on the product you chose show it's acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For either, replacing the 12VDC power supply with a 24VDC power supply would provide more volume.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are digital amps so you won't get the 'golden sound' an audiophile would want, but I'd accept it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="391a7d56-d7b5-4e03-a666-285bbf454126" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:48:33.903" UserId="13793" Text="I need to measure the blood-pressure with the help of an arduino module, i searched it from the internet but could not found anything useful.What modules should i look for?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47308" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="391a7d56-d7b5-4e03-a666-285bbf454126" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:48:33.903" UserId="13793" Text="Need a blood-pressure measuring module recommendation for arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47309" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="391a7d56-d7b5-4e03-a666-285bbf454126" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:48:33.903" UserId="13793" Text="&lt;arduino&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47313" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="5eb5e32b-5466-43f0-bce9-2336fbd3a6fc" CreationDate="2020-04-10T18:14:52.033" UserId="9825" Comment="Add web links, grammar, and spelling" Text="I need to measure blood pressure with an interfaced [sphygmomanometer][1] and the help of an [Arduino][2] module. I searched the web for such a device, but could not found anything useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modules should i look for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphygmomanometer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47314" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="5eb5e32b-5466-43f0-bce9-2336fbd3a6fc" CreationDate="2020-04-10T18:14:52.033" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by -1 edit id of 1072" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47315" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="0f72310d-49f2-4d73-af8d-df916e230458" CreationDate="2020-04-10T18:14:52.033" UserId="13793" Comment="Add web links, grammar, and spelling" Text="I need to measure blood pressure with an [Arduino][1] module. I searched the web for such a device, but could not found anything useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What modules should i look for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47317" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13250" RevisionGUID="0cd08bc6-8fe3-4636-9c44-3121a504b5cd" CreationDate="2020-04-10T18:34:07.250" UserId="9825" Text="Government regulation of healthcare devices raises the entry cost to market for such devices, so it's no surprise none was found in my web search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there's a non-Arduino [Bluetooth blood pressure cuff][1] which logs data to iOS and Android devices &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also create your own following instructions [in this book][2] with a capacitive pressure sensor and a [Mega 2560][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Omron-Wireless-Upper-Pressure-Monitor/dp/B07S2H3XBB&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/PLOTTING-PRESSURE-CAPACITIVE-SENSOR-ARDUINO-ebook/dp/B01MTEFFGE/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/mega-2560-r3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47318" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13251" RevisionGUID="d5dac0d8-2279-4dd3-93ab-921140eaee26" CreationDate="2020-04-10T18:59:52.727" UserId="7532" Text="You can connect most of what you need directly to the board, but it will be easier if you use a [breadboard][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a really good paper [here][2] that describes the measurement process and even shows the low-pass amplifier they used to read from the pressure sensor. You can place only the sensor inside the inflated portion and have the rest outside, or you can use a [full module][3] that is placed inside the chamber. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will also need an [air pump][4] to inflate, and a [solenoid valve][5] to deflate. Both the pump and solenoid use 12V, so you will need a [set of relays][6]. Make sure that you have a way to restrict the airflow out, so that it deflates slowly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/4Pcs-MCIGICM-Point-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B08115P2T4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.robots.ox.ac.uk/~neil/teaching/lectures/med_elec/notes8.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Atmospheric-Pressure-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01N47LZ4P&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/ROB-10398/1568-1344-ND/5684377&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://smile.amazon.com/4inch-Normally-Closed-Electric-Solenoid/dp/B074Z5SDG3&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-channel-5v-relay-shield-module.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rJaHUD04ANRDE-ncjO4qd4qfJHGT3BT2Ik3MTv6_Ye1geRmE3RP2ZhoCTZwQAvD_BwE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13251" RevisionGUID="0f4da961-732b-425e-afbe-952a0e08d7b6" CreationDate="2020-04-10T19:06:18.810" UserId="7532" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="When I hear you ask for a module, I think of an Arduino &quot;Shield&quot; but you dont need one of these. You can connect what you need directly to the board, but it will be easier if you use a [breadboard][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a really good paper [here][2] that describes the measurement process and even shows the low-pass amplifier they used to read from the pressure sensor. You can place only the sensor inside the inflated portion and have the rest outside, or you can use a [full module][3] that is placed inside the chamber. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will also need an [air pump][4] to inflate, and a [solenoid valve][5] to deflate. Both the pump and solenoid use 12V, so you will need a [set of relays][6]. Make sure that you have a way to restrict the airflow out, so that it deflates slowly. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/4Pcs-MCIGICM-Point-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B08115P2T4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.robots.ox.ac.uk/~neil/teaching/lectures/med_elec/notes8.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Atmospheric-Pressure-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01N47LZ4P&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/ROB-10398/1568-1344-ND/5684377&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://smile.amazon.com/4inch-Normally-Closed-Electric-Solenoid/dp/B074Z5SDG3&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-channel-5v-relay-shield-module.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rJaHUD04ANRDE-ncjO4qd4qfJHGT3BT2Ik3MTv6_Ye1geRmE3RP2ZhoCTZwQAvD_BwE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47338" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7130" RevisionGUID="7ea82f42-5dec-4d5b-825a-3caa3bd7f02a" CreationDate="2020-04-11T10:00:40.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47339" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="86d669e3-dcbf-48ff-ba21-2fe236c7f943" CreationDate="2020-04-11T12:00:45.047" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47340" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13256" RevisionGUID="0ec2f098-a83e-4e34-b82f-b87685993f22" CreationDate="2020-04-11T15:31:40.297" UserId="15642" Text="Does there exist a microSD card&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;[![microSD Card][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;that acts as a memory (a ¼GB is sufficient) but allows read access via Bluetooth or even WiFi? I have a very sensitive (low light) camera&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;[![siOnyx Aurora Sport][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;that, under only starlight, can record color video on an internally stored microSD card; the camera is water resistant and the microSD slot is not accessible. I'd like to be able to read that video as it is being recorded, using the camera as an electronic finder on my astronomical telescope.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I've been through about 300 of the listed 2000 Amazon entries for microSD without any joy. ;S&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4ejb.gif&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nwcK.gif" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47341" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13256" RevisionGUID="0ec2f098-a83e-4e34-b82f-b87685993f22" CreationDate="2020-04-11T15:31:40.297" UserId="15642" Text="Seeking microSD Memory with Bluetooth or WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47342" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13256" RevisionGUID="0ec2f098-a83e-4e34-b82f-b87685993f22" CreationDate="2020-04-11T15:31:40.297" UserId="15642" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;bluetooth-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47343" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13257" RevisionGUID="30d049d2-295d-44af-a0e4-5201cabb0373" CreationDate="2020-04-11T15:40:51.340" UserId="15642" Text="Except for the $20 price tag, I'd recommend (and recommend against; see below) the Google Pixel smartphone! I have a Pixel 3 on a wireless charging stand. When dormant (after only a few seconds), the display is quite dim (and, being an amateur astronomer, I am extraordinarily picky about &quot;dim&quot; displays). Also, a smartphone matches (even if subsumes) your other criteria, such as Bluetooth, automatic time, and multiple alarm settings.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My counter-recommendation is that having a smart phone near where you sleep is an obvious temptation for bad behavior (awakening in the middle of the night to check the news). As with any surgeon's-scalpel sort of tool, you must exercise diligence." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47344" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13258" RevisionGUID="b81252e9-0551-45d9-88c6-cf03f73d00cf" CreationDate="2020-04-11T15:45:49.470" UserId="15642" Text="An additional recommendation: the Cubie series of bedside clocks; there are at least four models (listed under &quot;Cubi&quot;) on Amazon. My spouse has one and its display is somewhat dim; it autosets time (somehow) and has USB charging ports. Be advised that its idea of &quot;now&quot; and yours might differ: hers is consistently three minutes behind the time our smartphones report." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13251" RevisionGUID="fe8e1da0-4b3f-4351-8ad6-fc0a5fab32eb" CreationDate="2020-04-11T16:52:16.000" UserId="7532" Comment="added 33 characters in body" Text="When I hear you ask for a module, I think of an Arduino &quot;Shield&quot; but you dont need one of these. You can connect what you need directly to the board, but it will be easier if you use a [breadboard][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a really good paper [here][2] that describes the measurement process and even shows the low-pass amplifier they used to read from the pressure sensor. You can place only the sensor inside the inflated portion and have the rest outside, or you can use a [full module][3] that is placed inside the chamber. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will also need an [air pump][4] to inflate, and a [solenoid valve][5] to deflate. Both the pump and solenoid use 12V, so you will need a [set of relays][6]. Make sure that you have a way to restrict the airflow out, so that it deflates slow enough to get precise measurements. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/4Pcs-MCIGICM-Point-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B08115P2T4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.robots.ox.ac.uk/~neil/teaching/lectures/med_elec/notes8.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Atmospheric-Pressure-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01N47LZ4P&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/ROB-10398/1568-1344-ND/5684377&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://smile.amazon.com/4inch-Normally-Closed-Electric-Solenoid/dp/B074Z5SDG3&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-channel-5v-relay-shield-module.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rJaHUD04ANRDE-ncjO4qd4qfJHGT3BT2Ik3MTv6_Ye1geRmE3RP2ZhoCTZwQAvD_BwE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47366" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="d42ef8cb-ec5a-4316-88a1-1b29b070e9c2" CreationDate="2020-04-13T13:05:24.360" UserId="15651" Text="I am using a TOSHIBA P50-C-10G laptop. I am trying to upgrade the hard drive from HDD to SSD. I am considering either SATA or NVMe, but I'm not sure if my computer has support for NVMe. I opened it up and found what looks to be a motherboard port for the NVMe card, but it doesn't have the dock to put the card in it. The pictures are down below. Is it possible to somehow add the dock and would it even be supported?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVME port 1][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![NVME port 2][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. If there is a better forum or stackexchange site, please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTFm5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLRzd.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47367" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="d42ef8cb-ec5a-4316-88a1-1b29b070e9c2" CreationDate="2020-04-13T13:05:24.360" UserId="15651" Text="The possibility of adding NVMe memory to my motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47368" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="d42ef8cb-ec5a-4316-88a1-1b29b070e9c2" CreationDate="2020-04-13T13:05:24.360" UserId="15651" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13244" RevisionGUID="90066790-fa8f-4652-81c1-b6531bedca1c" CreationDate="2020-04-13T15:45:54.000" UserId="9825" Comment="added 257 characters in body" Text="Contact a sales rep at Batteries Plus which has a [very detailed set of choices][1] for Toshiba L655 series batteries. Make it a 'condition of sale' that it must fit. If the sales rep quibbles or won't agree to the stipulation, that's a red flag, because it guarantees your bank or credit card company _will_ chargeback against them if it doesn't work or fit. Vendors _hate_ chargebacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, two websites were found which show compatibility (thanks to the OP!):  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.irelandbattery.com/toshiba-batteries/toshiba-satellite-l655-13x-battery.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.laptopbattery.com.sg/toshiba/toshiba-satellite-l655-13x-batteries.htm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/laptop/toshiba/satellite-l655-series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47370" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="380411a7-2d85-403d-892f-5dadfe561e02" CreationDate="2020-04-13T16:50:30.920" UserId="9825" Text="PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below, Your connector does not match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, twice over, an NVMe drive will not work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="ec669ac1-5d09-4b63-9961-1626eee74cd8" CreationDate="2020-04-13T17:36:25.863" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity of subject line, tag, reference web link" Text="I have a [TOSHIBA P50-C-10G][1] laptop. and want to upgrade the internal drive from HDD to SSD. I am considering either SATA or NVMe, but I'm not sure if my computer has support for NVMe. I opened it up and found what looks to be a motherboard port for the NVMe card, but it doesn't have the dock to put the card in it. The pictures are down below. Is it possible to somehow add the dock and would it even be supported?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVME port 1][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![NVME port 2][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. If there is a better forum or stackexchange site, please let me know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://il.dynabook.com/en/discontinued-products/satellite-p50-c-10g/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTFm5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLRzd.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47372" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="ec669ac1-5d09-4b63-9961-1626eee74cd8" CreationDate="2020-04-13T17:36:25.863" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity of subject line, tag, reference web link" Text="Can I add an NVMe SSD to my motherboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47373" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="ec669ac1-5d09-4b63-9961-1626eee74cd8" CreationDate="2020-04-13T17:36:25.863" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity of subject line, tag, reference web link" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47374" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13265" RevisionGUID="ec669ac1-5d09-4b63-9961-1626eee74cd8" CreationDate="2020-04-13T17:36:25.863" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 15651 edit id of 1076" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47375" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="6c9971a2-e35e-490b-80a2-15baea133f44" CreationDate="2020-04-13T18:11:58.637" UserId="9825" Comment="added 585 characters in body" Text="PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below, Your connector does not match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[M.2 connector types][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, twice over, an NVMe drive will not work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`[![This][3]][3]` is where an M.2 connector may go, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards on different designed and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There may be an  M.2 connector  on the circuit board off screen to the left. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2#/media/File:M2_Edge_Connector_Keying.svg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="6be297c7-66d0-4dad-b906-bce0492e1ad1" CreationDate="2020-04-13T18:17:24.253" UserId="9825" Comment="added 585 characters in body" Text="PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below, Your connector does not match.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![M.2 connector types][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, twice over, an NVMe drive will not work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`[![This][3]][3]` is where an M.2 connector may go, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards on different designed and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There may be an M.2 connector  on the circuit board off screen to the left. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47381" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="b4893264-ddc1-4806-b252-a3aa64763835" CreationDate="2020-04-13T21:03:05.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="99c0292a-e1d6-4b58-83f8-499f38bb7f54" CreationDate="2020-04-13T21:19:21.933" UserId="9825" Comment="added 423 characters in body" Text="Additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). So, it will not work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![M.2 connector types][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't see an M.2 connector in the photo, so I looked for other photos, and [found one][4] from [this page][4].  There's no connector for any M.2 drive, so you must use a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD to replace the original [Toshiba MQ02ABD100H HDD][5]. Here's a [video showing how to open it up][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you had circled was the ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to an i/o daughterboard.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`[![This][3]][3]` is where an M.2 connector might have gone, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards for different models and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-toshiba-satellite-p50-c-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Toshiba-MQ02ABD100H-Benchmarked.440721.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://images.app.goo.gl/QvdcJkenJdVm6TUM7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="48b71f6c-0149-464d-b65a-748997772f50" CreationDate="2020-04-13T21:25:36.353" UserId="9825" Comment="added 423 characters in body" Text="Additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). So, it will not work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![M.2 connector types][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't see an M.2 connector in the photo, so I looked for other photos, and [found one][4] from [this page][4].  There's no connector for any M.2 drive, so you must use a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD to replace the original [Toshiba MQ02ABD100H HDD][5]. Here's a [video showing how to open it up][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you had circled to the right above the ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to an i/o daughterboard is where an M.2 connector might have gone, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards for different models and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-toshiba-satellite-p50-c-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Toshiba-MQ02ABD100H-Benchmarked.440721.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://images.app.goo.gl/QvdcJkenJdVm6TUM7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47385" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="8dac5834-c325-494a-908a-7e2c23d57e7e" CreationDate="2020-04-14T06:02:25.383" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13266" RevisionGUID="78110666-9c75-416a-aaec-a2b3a03832a3" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:12:10.313" UserId="9825" Comment="added 22 characters in body" Text="Additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). So, it will not work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![NVMe M.2 SSD][1]][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[![SATA M.2 SSD][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![M.2 connector types][3]][3] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't see an M.2 connector in the photo, so I looked for other photos, and [found a wider and sharper photo][4] from [this page][4].  There's no connector for any M.2 drive, so you must use a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD to replace the original [Toshiba MQ02ABD100H HDD][5]. Here's a [video showing how to open it up][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What you had circled to the right above the ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to an i/o daughterboard is where an M.2 connector might have gone, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards for different models and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-toshiba-satellite-p50-c-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Toshiba-MQ02ABD100H-Benchmarked.440721.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://images.app.goo.gl/QvdcJkenJdVm6TUM7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47392" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13271" RevisionGUID="b7d2edf4-4210-48c6-923b-d24d321e5456" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:30:04.017" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47393" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13271" RevisionGUID="b7d2edf4-4210-48c6-923b-d24d321e5456" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:30:04.017" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13272" RevisionGUID="89ac7e9a-6235-4af2-b416-aae72fd7fb55" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:30:04.017" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47395" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13272" RevisionGUID="89ac7e9a-6235-4af2-b416-aae72fd7fb55" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:30:04.017" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47396" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13273" RevisionGUID="7aa4ec32-ecfa-4908-be28-e5e57d36c46c" CreationDate="2020-04-14T15:52:51.287" UserId="9825" Text="I was not able to find a phone both =&lt; 4.5&quot; and &lt; $100 currently supported for LineageOS, nor could I find one described as 'rugged'. However, several were available in the 5.1&quot;-5.2&quot; (diagonal) size range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A refurbished [ASUS Zenphone 3][1] is available [FOB Destination for $102][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 'certified' refurbuished [Google Pixel][3] can be found for [$51 shipped][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LeEco Le 2 (not refurbished) is [$86 from multiple eBay vendors][5] and [$98 from AliExpress][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [LG G2][7] is [$78 from eBay vendors][7] and [AliExpress vendors][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/zenfone3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/6074498862042786720&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/sailfish&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://uptradeit.com/buy/google-pixel?variant=33562349MW&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;psb=1&amp;x=0&amp;y=0&amp;q=LeEco%20Le%202&amp;oq=LeEco%20Le%202&amp;aqs=products-cc..0l10&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000323193117.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/d802&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000317466804.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13273" RevisionGUID="f657267e-fb26-4474-8fc2-93757e03fea3" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:09:03.223" UserId="9825" Comment="added 384 characters in body" Text="I was not able to find a phone both =&lt; 4.5&quot; and &lt; $100 currently supported for LineageOS, nor could I find one described as 'rugged'. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smallest found, at 4.7&quot;, is the [Samsung Galaxy A3][1] in the [$80 and up range][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Several were available in the 5.1&quot;-5.2&quot; (diagonal) size range:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A refurbished [ASUS Zenphone 3][3] is available [FOB Destination for $102][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A 'certified' refurbuished [Google Pixel][5] can be found for [$51 shipped][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The LeEco Le 2 (not refurbished) is [$86 from multiple eBay vendors][7] and [$98 from AliExpress][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [LG G2][9] is [$78 from eBay vendors][9] and [AliExpress vendors][10].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/a3xelte&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1536&amp;bih=722&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=%22Samsung%20Galaxy%20A3%22&amp;tbs=vw%3Al%2Cmr%3A1%2Cp_ord%3Ap%2Cprice%3A1%2Cppr_min%3A80%2Cppr_max%3A100&amp;ei=9N-VXqGsN8a30PEPmrSDqAQ&amp;ved=0ahUKEwih9rrEpujoAhXGGzQIHRraAEUQuisIhgMoAQ&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/zenfone3&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/6074498862042786720&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/sailfish&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://uptradeit.com/buy/google-pixel?variant=33562349MW&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;psb=1&amp;x=0&amp;y=0&amp;q=LeEco%20Le%202&amp;oq=LeEco%20Le%202&amp;aqs=products-cc..0l10&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000323193117.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/d802&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000317466804.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="c409d74a-ff54-4af5-af43-43a855999dc5" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:15:53.503" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, format for clarity" Text="I am looking for a head-controlled mouse controlled with neck movements. I have found  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [SmartNav](https://naturalpoint.com/smartnav/) (400 to 600 USD),  &#xD;&#xA;- [TrackerPro](http://www.spectronics.com.au/product/tracker-pro) (1550 USD),  &#xD;&#xA;- [HeadMouse Extreme/Nano](http://www.orin.com/access/headmouse/) (995 USD), and  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;- [HeadMaster](http://www.evas.com/Datasheets/DataSheet088.htm) (?? USD). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How do they compare in terms of accuracy when moving the mouse cursor? My setting is multi-monitor (6). I am open to other devices as well (controlled with neck movements)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47399" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="c409d74a-ff54-4af5-af43-43a855999dc5" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:15:53.503" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, format for clarity" Text="How do head-tracking devices SmartNav, TrackerPro, HeadMouse Extreme, &amp; HeadMaster compare in terms of mouse and cursor vs movement accuracy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47400" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="c409d74a-ff54-4af5-af43-43a855999dc5" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:15:53.503" UserId="9825" Comment="Add relevant tag, format for clarity" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;adaptive-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47401" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="19" RevisionGUID="c409d74a-ff54-4af5-af43-43a855999dc5" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:15:53.503" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 40 edit id of 1078" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13274" RevisionGUID="f3c1f7e9-778e-4c6a-b24a-272eb62c9d1b" CreationDate="2020-04-14T16:28:07.980" UserId="9825" Text="None found by deep search in Amazon and elsewhere. Also used 'MicroSDHC' the new name for microSD, as search term, to no avail." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13250" RevisionGUID="2d04e851-def0-423b-a196-0a5c88e59eaf" CreationDate="2020-04-14T18:42:28.630" UserId="9825" Comment="added 15 characters in body" Text="Government regulation of healthcare devices raises the entry cost to market for such devices, so it's no surprise none was found in my web search. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, there's a non-Arduino [Bluetooth blood pressure cuff][1] which logs data to iOS and Android devices &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also create your own following instructions [in this book][2] with a capacitive pressure sensor and a [Mega 2560][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/iHealth-Wireless-Bluetooth-Compatible-Circumference/dp/B01718JVJE &#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/PLOTTING-PRESSURE-CAPACITIVE-SENSOR-ARDUINO-ebook/dp/B01MTEFFGE/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/mega-2560-r3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13275" RevisionGUID="f0179932-352a-4bcc-a0d4-52944f824cac" CreationDate="2020-04-14T23:52:36.527" UserId="15659" Text="I want to replace a HDD (Seagate [ST1000LM035-1RK172][1]) in a [Lenovo Flex 5-1570 (Type 81CA)][2] with an SSD.  I am looking for 500 GB or 1 TB. Is this SSD [SAMSUNG 1TB 860 EVO-Series 2.5][3] compatible for my Lenovo ? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/mobile-hddDS1861-2-1603-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/flex_5-1470_5-1570_hmm_201703.pdf&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/SAMSUNG-1TB-860-EVO-Series-2-5-SATA-III-Internal-SSD-Single-Unit-Version-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/201411818?fbclid=IwAR3_JvxvmBvj8Sn_ktVN0Nu89KPpEFhcrGcGaJw4HW7Ln4ErG7s9TzuqCss" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47408" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13275" RevisionGUID="f0179932-352a-4bcc-a0d4-52944f824cac" CreationDate="2020-04-14T23:52:36.527" UserId="15659" Text="How to buy the right comptabile SDD drive to my lenovou labtop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47409" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13275" RevisionGUID="f0179932-352a-4bcc-a0d4-52944f824cac" CreationDate="2020-04-14T23:52:36.527" UserId="15659" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="62abab14-a20b-427d-8a3d-50e77deb6665" CreationDate="2020-04-15T00:23:24.133" UserId="14545" Text="Considerations about choose between Intel i9-10900X and AMD R9-3950X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better for scientific and engineering computation/simulations? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 has 6 more cores,i9 has doubled memory channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible that in many use cases R9's real performance is limited by DDR bandwidth?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9's TDP is 105W, i9's TDP is 165W, but there are rumors that i9's real power can be 300W+ at normal full load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the zero and light load whole system power consumption? Hope it is less than ~50W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't know why all AMD's CPU with 4 memory channels are far more expensive or why doesn't AMD have a CPU with 4 memory channel with ~12 cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="62abab14-a20b-427d-8a3d-50e77deb6665" CreationDate="2020-04-15T00:23:24.133" UserId="14545" Text="Intel i9-109xx VS AMD R9-39xx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47412" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="62abab14-a20b-427d-8a3d-50e77deb6665" CreationDate="2020-04-15T00:23:24.133" UserId="14545" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47413" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="67734b50-1d91-42d0-89c6-8305def010b7" CreationDate="2020-04-15T01:19:02.873" UserId="14545" Comment="added 229 characters in body" Text="Considerations about choose between Intel i9-10900X and AMD R9-3950X:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which is better for scientific and engineering computation/simulations? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 has 6 more cores,i9 has doubled memory channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible that in many use cases R9's real performance is limited by DDR bandwidth?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9's TDP is 105W, i9's TDP is 165W, but there are rumors that i9's real power can be 300W+ at normal full load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the zero and light load whole system power consumption? Hope it is less than ~50W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't know why all AMD's CPU with 4 memory channels are far more expensive or why doesn't AMD have a CPU with 4 memory channel with ~12 cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 also have more cache: 72MB. https://images.anandtech.com/doci/15062/AMD%20Fall%20Desktop%20Announcement%20Briefing%20Deck-page-002.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9's DDR frequency is a higher than i9: 3200 VS 2933, DDR bandwith is 51GB/s VS 93GB/s&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47414" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13277" RevisionGUID="a3a0e841-d7f0-4bff-a7f6-256e8c62a776" CreationDate="2020-04-15T08:06:51.723" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="There are indeed fields of computing where Intels X299 lineup still performs better than AMDs Ryzen 3000 series. And even offers better performance per dollar. Engineering/scientific simulations like CFD and FEA is one of these areas. Source: I have been working in this field for many years now.  &#xD;&#xA;You already mentioned the key specification here: memory bandwidth. AMDs Ryzen CPUs stop scaling at around 6-8 cores due to a lack of memory bandwidth when running parallel CFD codes. See for example the results here: https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel CPUs can draw a lot more power than their rated TDP for short periods of time. That's how turbo boost works. So can AMD CPUs. Unless you are overclocking heavily, you won't see 300W sustained power draw from an I9-10900X. Not even close https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less than 50W power consumption for a whole system on an HEDT platform might be a bit optimistic. You will probably end up in the 70W range with a typical configuration. But this figure does not depend on the CPU alone. Motherboard, drives, GPU... all play a role here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why doesn't AMD release a Threadripper CPU with less than 24 cores, at a more reasonable price?  &#xD;&#xA;I can only speculate, and there will be a lot more reasons than I can come up with in a short paragraph. But one of the most important ones will be this: AMD is a relatively small company compared to Intel. So far, their goal is not to cover every niche possible with the perfect product. That was Intels goal. And let's face it: scientific and engineering computations on moderately priced workstation PCs is a niche application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More L3 cache is nice to have, but outside of edge-cases, it can not completely make up for a lack of memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw: if you are looking for a cheaper TR3000 alternative that better fits your requirements, AMD still has something in their lineup: Epyc 7302P. The CPU and the boards are not exactly cheap, but still much better value and higher total performance compared to the cheapest possible TR3000 build." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13278" RevisionGUID="c871b82a-1954-4417-be65-989fd8d2290d" CreationDate="2020-04-15T08:14:02.347" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Your laptop can hold a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD like the Samsung 860 Evo. So a clear yes to your question.  &#xD;&#xA;It can also be expanded with an m.2 NVMe SSD, in case you want to keep your hard drive for more total storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47416" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13277" RevisionGUID="f4425772-71b8-424b-b7e8-3939ef2ed78c" CreationDate="2020-04-15T08:17:33.860" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="There are indeed fields of computing where Intels X299 lineup still performs better than AMDs Ryzen 3000 series. And even offers better performance per dollar. Engineering/scientific simulations like CFD and FEA is one of these areas. Source: I have been working in this field for many years now.  &#xD;&#xA;You already mentioned the key specification here: memory bandwidth. AMDs Ryzen CPUs stop scaling at around 6-8 cores due to a lack of memory bandwidth when running parallel CFD codes. See for example the results here: https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel CPUs can draw a lot more power than their rated TDP for short periods of time. That's how turbo boost works. So can AMD CPUs. Unless you are overclocking heavily, you won't see 300W sustained power draw from an I9-10900X. Not even close https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less than 50W idle power consumption for a whole system on an HEDT platform might be a bit optimistic. You will probably end up in the 70W range with a typical configuration. But this figure does not depend on the CPU alone. Motherboard, drives, GPU... all play a role here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why doesn't AMD release a Threadripper CPU with less than 24 cores, at a more reasonable price?  &#xD;&#xA;I can only speculate, and there will be a lot more reasons than I can come up with in a short paragraph. But one of the most important ones will be this: AMD is a relatively small company compared to Intel. So far, their goal is not to cover every niche possible with the perfect product. That was Intels goal. And let's face it: scientific and engineering computations on moderately priced workstation PCs is a niche application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More L3 cache is nice to have, but outside of edge-cases, it can not completely make up for a lack of memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw: if you are looking for a cheaper TR3000 alternative that better fits your requirements, AMD still has something in their lineup: Epyc 7302P. The CPU and the boards are not exactly cheap, but still much better value and higher total performance compared to the cheapest possible TR3000 build." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47417" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13277" RevisionGUID="44d6109d-a1a1-4935-9e84-ab04ed0fe9d8" CreationDate="2020-04-15T09:19:12.753" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 259 characters in body" Text="There are indeed fields of computing where Intels X299 lineup still performs better than AMDs Ryzen 3000 series. And even offers better performance per dollar. Engineering/scientific simulations like CFD and FEA is one of these areas. Source: I have been working in this field for many years now.  &#xD;&#xA;You already mentioned the key specification here: memory bandwidth. AMDs Ryzen CPUs stop scaling at around 6-8 cores due to a lack of memory bandwidth when running parallel CFD codes. See for example the results here: https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel CPUs can draw a lot more power than their rated TDP for short periods of time. That's how turbo boost works. So can AMD CPUs. Unless you are overclocking heavily, you won't see 300W sustained power draw from an I9-10900X. Not even close https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less than 50W idle power consumption for a whole system on an HEDT platform might be a bit optimistic. You will probably end up in the 70W range with a typical configuration. But this figure does not depend on the CPU alone. Motherboard, drives, GPU... all play a role here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why doesn't AMD release a Threadripper CPU with less than 24 cores, at a more reasonable price?  &#xD;&#xA;I can only speculate, and there will be a lot more reasons than I can come up with in a short paragraph. But one of the most important ones will be this: AMD is a relatively small company compared to Intel. So far, their goal is not to cover every niche possible with the perfect product. That was Intels goal. And let's face it: scientific and engineering computations on moderately priced workstation PCs is a niche application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More L3 cache is nice to have, but outside of edge-cases, it can not completely make up for a lack of memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw: if you are looking for a cheaper TR3000 alternative that better fits your requirements, AMD still has something in their lineup: Epyc 7302P. The CPU and the boards are not exactly cheap, but still much better value and higher total performance compared to the cheapest possible TR3000 build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;forgot to mention this: especially with your applications in mind, I would highly recommend faster memory than DDR4-2933 or DDR4-3200 for both AMD Ryzen 3000 and Intel Cascade Lake-X CPUs. DDR4-3600 is around the sweetspot for price/performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="2a17aac2-507c-4d86-8902-0370838ecd17" CreationDate="2020-04-15T10:55:19.160" UserId="15660" Text="I  require to dual boot Ubuntu LTS 18.04 along with Windows 10. Which laptop would you recommend to do so? I would need a good community to troubleshoot with, documentation, step-by-step guides to dual boot Ubuntu on that particular laptop. My minimum storage and RAM requirements are respectively 512 GB, 16 GB. The laptop should have good I/O. The laptop would be used for video editing and playing GTA V and Rainbow Six Siege along with Rocket League, along with a bit of machine learning (thus CUDA support and tensor flow). I would need 8+ hours of battery life when web browsing, watching video/movies, coding. The laptop should also not have any major issues (like overheating for instance) and should last me for a couple of years. The processor needs to be Intel and discrete GPU NVIDIA." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47419" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="2a17aac2-507c-4d86-8902-0370838ecd17" CreationDate="2020-04-15T10:55:19.160" UserId="15660" Text="Which laptop should I buy for dual booting Ubuntu 18.04 LTS and Windows 10?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47420" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="2a17aac2-507c-4d86-8902-0370838ecd17" CreationDate="2020-04-15T10:55:19.160" UserId="15660" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47421" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="11cc2964-fe2f-42c9-8676-882d5db1fdbb" CreationDate="2020-04-15T12:11:11.427" UserId="15662" Text="This is my first time posting here, so apologies if this question does not belong here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’d like recommendations for an alternative to the Apple Magic keyboard that is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper (preferably under £50/$60)&#xD;&#xA; - A membrane keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - Does not have an extended layout (with a pad of numbers in the rightmost section of the keyboard) &#xD;&#xA; - Uses the QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA; - For personal use&#xD;&#xA; - Not too noisy (but this is lower priority)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can touch-type at 70 WPM if that is of any use. I’m not particularly interested in gaming keyboards; I just want something that does the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for reading." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47422" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="11cc2964-fe2f-42c9-8676-882d5db1fdbb" CreationDate="2020-04-15T12:11:11.427" UserId="15662" Text="Best alternatives to the Apple Magic Keyboard for those seeking a cheaper option" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47423" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="11cc2964-fe2f-42c9-8676-882d5db1fdbb" CreationDate="2020-04-15T12:11:11.427" UserId="15662" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47424" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9902" RevisionGUID="ce5f1d31-77e9-4a9b-ae8b-c0371c40b784" CreationDate="2020-04-15T13:01:50.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47425" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="cd1f0532-80a3-4119-95ad-25b114c353b9" CreationDate="2020-04-15T15:00:24.277" UserId="9825" Comment="105" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="09dd9c34-6468-4d6f-ac35-40f83d70cf1c" CreationDate="2020-04-15T18:28:48.120" UserId="15664" Text="I'm looking for a recommendation of a quiet fan/heat sink for an AMD A8-3870K CPU. Being used in a Gigabyte [GA-A75M-UD2H][1] mobo.  Mine is about 9 years old and it's getting loud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-A75M-UD2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47427" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="09dd9c34-6468-4d6f-ac35-40f83d70cf1c" CreationDate="2020-04-15T18:28:48.120" UserId="15664" Text="CPU Fan/Heat Sink recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47428" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="09dd9c34-6468-4d6f-ac35-40f83d70cf1c" CreationDate="2020-04-15T18:28:48.120" UserId="15664" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47431" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13283" RevisionGUID="6f1c0eef-fbf3-4095-ac7b-5cf9faf6a2b5" CreationDate="2020-04-15T18:58:17.500" UserId="9825" Text="The [Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus][1] has [good reviews][2] and costs 28 quid at [Big Wide River Trading Company][4] or [$38 stateside at CDW][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400-plus&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.macworld.com/article/2990826/logitech-wireless-touch-keyboard-k400-plus-review-stylish-couch-keyboard.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cdw.com/product/Logitech-Wireless-Touch-Keyboard-K400-Plus-keyboard-with-touchpad-bla/3819004&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-K400-Plus-keyboards-Universal/dp/B014EUQOGK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13284" RevisionGUID="397df565-7dfb-41f8-b1d9-b1c613985402" CreationDate="2020-04-15T19:08:23.780" UserId="9825" Text="Lenovo ThinkPads are excellent and are available and their [P series machines][1] are excellent performers for gaming and video work.  If you need to scale down in cost, the  [W  series machines][2] are very reasonably priced in the resale market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinkpads are still professionally serviced by IBM Global as well as everyone else, and Lenovo publishes the most detailed and accurate hardware manuals. Lenovo also provides excellent support for Ubuntu,, as I found when refurbishing them at https://freegeek.org .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ThinkPad_P_series#Fourth_generation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ThinkPad_W_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47434" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="aa2adf86-cdff-4de4-80f6-d52e88593aba" CreationDate="2020-04-15T19:31:48.610" UserId="15664" Comment="Added information from OP original post at https://superuser.com/questions/1542213/cpu-fan-surges-frequently" Text="I'm looking for a recommendation of a quiet fan/heat sink for an AMD A8-3870K CPU.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I've cleaned dust out of the case, taken the CPU fan/heatsink off, blown it out, applied new thermal paste. Still having noise issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's used in a Gigabyte [GA-A75M-UD2H][1] mobo.  Mine is about 9 years old and it's getting loud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: As it is an older machine, I don't want to spend too much. If possible, I'd like to keep it below $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-A75M-UD2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47435" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="f2a7be65-2516-4c0a-89e7-ae80a86e3711" CreationDate="2020-04-15T19:45:34.460" UserId="15664" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a recommendation of a quiet fan/heat sink for an AMD A8-3870K CPU.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I've cleaned dust out of the case, taken the CPU fan/heatsink off, blown it out, applied new thermal paste. Still having noise issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's used in a Gigabyte [GA-A75M-UD2H][1] mobo.  Mine is about 9 years old and it's getting loud.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: As it is an older machine, I don't want to spend too much. If possible, I'd like to keep it around $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-A75M-UD2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13284" RevisionGUID="03412428-98f6-47a5-a051-7f7eb796b546" CreationDate="2020-04-15T21:19:27.413" UserId="9825" Comment="added 169 characters in body" Text="Lenovo ThinkPads are excellent and are available and their [P series machines][1] such as [this P53][2]  are excellent performers for gaming and video work.  If you need to scale down in cost, the  [W  series machines][3] are very reasonably priced in the resale market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thinkpads are still professionally serviced by IBM Global as well as everyone else, and Lenovo publishes the most detailed and accurate hardware manuals.  There are very popular in the https://Askubuntu.com community as well as elsewhere. Lenovo also provides excellent support for Ubuntu, as I found when refurbishing them at https://freegeek.org .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ThinkPad_P_series#Fourth_generation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.staples.com/lenovo-thinkpad-p53s-20n6-15-6-notebook-intel-i7-16gb-memory-windows-10-professional-20n6001uus/product_IM16JV774&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ThinkPad_W_series" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13287" RevisionGUID="5ba6bc1b-6808-4232-b16a-f637ba5b62d0" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:32:11.827" UserId="15668" Text="Years back I bought the cheapest Logitech keyboard for my computer as I felt they &quot;are all the same!&quot;. I hadn't used it in a while, but since working from home now I'm using a lot and it has really dawned on me the last couple of weeks just how loud and stiff the keys are. I'm pretty certain my neighbour two doors down can here me tapping at the keys it's that loud. Each key feels like a brick when I'm pressing it so I really need to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are people on here using or could recommend? I'll be primarily using it for programming, with some phtoshopping and gaming at some point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13287" RevisionGUID="5ba6bc1b-6808-4232-b16a-f637ba5b62d0" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:32:11.827" UserId="15668" Text="Keyboard for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13287" RevisionGUID="5ba6bc1b-6808-4232-b16a-f637ba5b62d0" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:32:11.827" UserId="15668" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47450" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13288" RevisionGUID="ac077ab6-b0ba-42ee-8734-0798e87e109e" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:52:16.310" UserId="15669" Text="May I know whether Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering Softwares efficiently?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using softwares such as MATLAB with simulink, STK, AutoCAD, solidworks and ANSYS workbench. &#xD;&#xA;My budget is only 500 euros.&#xD;&#xA;I am a research student and my laptop should be travel supportive.&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Surface Book, i5, 6th generation 128 SSD, 8 GB RAM are the specs of this laptop. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47451" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13288" RevisionGUID="ac077ab6-b0ba-42ee-8734-0798e87e109e" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:52:16.310" UserId="15669" Text="Is Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering Softwares efficiently?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47452" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13288" RevisionGUID="ac077ab6-b0ba-42ee-8734-0798e87e109e" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:52:16.310" UserId="15669" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47460" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13292" RevisionGUID="e6ca462c-22f9-434c-a458-21bc0eb28103" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:11:53.897" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="It will run these programs. How well depends on your expectations. It's a dual-core CPU with relatively low clock speeds. At least the RAM is configured in dual-channel mode, but it's only 8GB, and can not be upgraded. Same with the tiny SSD. While that could technically be upgraded, it is not straightforward at all. Ifixit gave it a 1 out of 10 for repairability https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Microsoft+Surface+Book+Teardown/51972&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I had 500$ with your requirements, I would get something like a Thinkpad T460p with a quad-core CPU. While it may not look as sexy as a surface book, it can easily be upgraded and serviced. The latter is a rather important trait for used laptops. And it beats the Surface Book in the performance department." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47463" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13293" RevisionGUID="f3a4533c-d9bd-4165-8c70-a4cb00428ea9" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:57:57.373" UserId="15672" Text="I have a notebook that has 2 micro-usb type C ports and no other video output, and a pc pct with DVI and HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two other monitors, both of them have HDMI, DVI ,VGA ports, and if I recall correctly DisplayPort too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally I have a usb keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy some device that will be connected to all monitors and to the USB mouse / keyboard, and that will allow me to use both computers with the same keyboard / mouse, selecting witch monitor to use (also both) for each specific computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47464" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13293" RevisionGUID="f3a4533c-d9bd-4165-8c70-a4cb00428ea9" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:57:57.373" UserId="15672" Text="USB switch for monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47465" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13293" RevisionGUID="f3a4533c-d9bd-4165-8c70-a4cb00428ea9" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:57:57.373" UserId="15672" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;switch&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47466" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13294" RevisionGUID="2ee70267-e720-4e0e-821c-8c29d93fcb7e" CreationDate="2020-04-16T18:01:17.190" UserId="9825" Text="https://www.google.com/search?q=cherry+switches+red+blue+black has a number of videos and articles you may find helpful in making a decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a keyboard with Cherry Speed Silver switches in your case for their shorter travel, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/usa-v80-tenkeyless-speed-switch-vintage-keyboard.asp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Lighting-Stealth/dp/B07VXRXMHF/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-MK-2-RAPIDFIRE-Profile/dp/B07D5S24BP/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/PLATINUM-Mechanical-Keyboard-Passthrough-Controls/dp/B01N5IISXY/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit-Resistant/dp/B07QBD76TX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47470" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13294" RevisionGUID="1fba0c3a-08d2-48c6-8fb9-b99397a6baa7" CreationDate="2020-04-16T18:39:17.390" UserId="9825" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="https://www.google.com/search?q=cherry+switches+red+blue+black has a number of videos and articles you may find helpful in making a decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a keyboard with Cherry Speed Silver switches in your case for their shorter travel, e.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&amp;c=363&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/usa-v80-tenkeyless-speed-switch-vintage-keyboard.asp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Lighting-Stealth/dp/B07VXRXMHF/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-MK-2-RAPIDFIRE-Profile/dp/B07D5S24BP/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/PLATINUM-Mechanical-Keyboard-Passthrough-Controls/dp/B01N5IISXY/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit-Resistant/dp/B07QBD76TX" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13296" RevisionGUID="9c421bad-9c5d-4f89-97c0-3016dbe3ef2d" CreationDate="2020-04-16T18:55:06.260" UserId="7532" Text="**The Workstation**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheap route is to use a [USB-C Hub][1]. I have used this one across many devices and can vouch for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fancy way, you can get a [USB-C Dock][2] that is basically the same thing but is meant to be stationary, so has its own power supply and more functionality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of the above options would turn your desk into a generic &quot;Work Station&quot; at which you could sit down with any USB-C device and connect to all your peripherals. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**KVM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have both computers at the same desk always on and easily swap back and forth, you are looking for a KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse). Unfortunately, USB-C is relatively new and I do not know of any that run directly from USB-C yet available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are may kinds of KVMs available. Some [split video cables][3], some [split USB connections][4], and others that [split both separately][5].  You could convert from USB-C to USB-A and then go to one of these. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What to look for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB-C][6] is the connection and is part of [Thunderbolt 3][7] but the two are [not the same][8]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can charge many devices through the same port you connect to the hub. The first device I listed has this functionality, known as power pass-through. Often sold with the [Power Delivery (PD)][9] mark followed by the power rating for that device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to use one computer on each monitor and want to share a mouse and keyboard, you can use software like [Synergy][10]. It's a great software that I have used many times. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several very similar questions on this site and no perfect answers. It's a messy area to search for, but once you know what your looking for you can find the solution that works best for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHD3VC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/CalDigit-TS3-Plus-Thunderbolt-Dock/dp/B07CZPV8DF&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/CKL-Monitor-Extended-Display-CKL-922HUA/dp/B07KVJ54X2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://smile.amazon.com/Selector-ABLEWE-Switcher-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B07TS5JNT3&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://smile.amazon.com/Supports-Control-Computers-Servers-DVR-HDMI/dp/B07SGX5D2G&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://thunderbolttechnology.net/consumer/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.howtogeek.com/449991/thunderbolt-3-vs.-usb-c-whats-the-difference/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://symless.com/synergy&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/13214" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47474" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13298" RevisionGUID="c57790b8-77d3-4a3d-b87c-a3ab18f959b2" CreationDate="2020-04-16T19:17:55.227" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Before we leave you hanging there, I'll give it a shot.  &#xD;&#xA;Combining the information you gave here and over on Superuser, a new fan probably won't cut it. Either your current cooler does not have enough thermal mass, or maybe the heatpipes have leaked. If it has any...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Assuming you have enough clearance for a small tower cooler in your case (please check before buying, or add the case to your question), this is the cheapest option I would recommend:  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.lc-power.com/en/product/cpu-cooler/lc-cc-95/  &#xD;&#xA;It starts at 11€ plus shipping in Germany. The fan is PWM controlled, your motherboard has a PWM fan header for the CPU. It is rated for up to 130W TDP, although I find these ratings rather meaningless. What's important is that it is a tower cooler with 2 heatpipes and a relatively quiet fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to step it up a notch, or can't find this cooler anywhere, here are a few alternatives, in ascending order of price, and to some extent quality:  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.xilence.net/en/cpu-coolers/30  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.arctic.ac/de_en/freezer-13.html  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.alpenfoehn.de/en/products/cpu-cooler/bennevis  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/532" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47475" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13296" RevisionGUID="675fe5d9-ea9e-4725-a63b-b9ccb28d7431" CreationDate="2020-04-16T19:52:47.917" UserId="7532" Comment="Answering additional question from comment. " Text="**The Workstation**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheap route is to use a [USB-C Hub][1]. I have used this one across many devices and can vouch for it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The fancy way, you can get a [USB-C Dock][2] that is basically the same thing but is meant to be stationary, so has its own power supply and more functionality. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of the above options would turn your desk into a generic &quot;Work Station&quot; at which you could sit down with any USB-C device and connect to all your peripherals. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**KVM**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to have both computers at the same desk always on and easily swap back and forth, you are looking for a KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse). Unfortunately, USB-C is relatively new and I do not know of any that run directly from USB-C yet available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are may kinds of KVMs available. Some [split video cables][3], some [split USB connections][4], and others that [split both separately][5].  You could convert from USB-C to USB-A and then go to one of these. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What to look for**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB-C][6] is the connection and is part of [Thunderbolt 3][7] but the two are [not the same][8]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can charge many devices through the same port you connect to the hub. The first device I listed has this functionality, known as power pass-through. Often sold with the [Power Delivery (PD)][9] mark followed by the power rating for that device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are going to use one computer on each monitor and want to share a mouse and keyboard, you can use software like [Synergy][10]. It's a great software that I have used many times. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Note**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are several very similar questions on this site and no perfect answers. It's a messy area to search for, but once you know what your looking for you can find the solution that works best for you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit: Answer to comment**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For keyboard and mouse, there will be absolutely no problem going to USB-A. The only problem is that you said your computer only has USB-C outputs and no video output. I would recommend going from laptop to [this cheaper hub][11] and then from this hub's HDMI and USB-A to the above linked KVM. Use the first Hub I linked in the exact same way if you also want power pass-through. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHD3VC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/CalDigit-TS3-Plus-Thunderbolt-Dock/dp/B07CZPV8DF&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://smile.amazon.com/CKL-Monitor-Extended-Display-CKL-922HUA/dp/B07KVJ54X2&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://smile.amazon.com/Selector-ABLEWE-Switcher-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B07TS5JNT3&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://smile.amazon.com/Supports-Control-Computers-Servers-DVR-HDMI/dp/B07SGX5D2G&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://thunderbolttechnology.net/consumer/&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.howtogeek.com/449991/thunderbolt-3-vs.-usb-c-whats-the-difference/&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://symless.com/synergy&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Ethernet-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47480" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="85851c24-cfd3-43d3-b9d0-d494c030f2c3" CreationDate="2020-04-16T23:24:33.823" UserId="15675" Text="I have tried using multiple wifi adapters (some USB, some mini-PCIe) as access points, but I can't get any of them to work on the 5 GHz band. So, no AC and no dual-band N. I've heard it may have something to do with firmware, but I'm not clear on the details. Does anyone know of a USB adapter that actually works as an AC access point in Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47481" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="85851c24-cfd3-43d3-b9d0-d494c030f2c3" CreationDate="2020-04-16T23:24:33.823" UserId="15675" Text="Do USB wifi adapters exist that work as AC access points?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47482" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="85851c24-cfd3-43d3-b9d0-d494c030f2c3" CreationDate="2020-04-16T23:24:33.823" UserId="15675" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13302" RevisionGUID="7f3709f5-0624-42ee-aa31-8d32e1cae16f" CreationDate="2020-04-17T00:00:13.490" UserId="9825" Text="Numerous [802.11ac][1]-ready 5GHz-capable USB WiFi adapters are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article][2] explains how to configure an Ubuntu Linux system to perform double duty with the [hostapd][3] package as a [Wireless Access Point][4] to allow other devices to connect to the web through the PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That PC must have a separate WiFi or Ethernet connection to an Internet-connected router or gateway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/debian-ubuntu-linux-setting-wireless-access-point/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/bionic/man1/hostapd_cli.1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/WifiDocs/WirelessAccessPoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47488" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12961" RevisionGUID="18b91d5d-de90-40cb-8cf5-6d6b4e4f6ce5" CreationDate="2020-04-17T01:01:15.187" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47491" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="f329e8b9-3f8b-4b94-97f5-c2a8363141f9" CreationDate="2020-04-17T07:02:20.230" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13305" RevisionGUID="d7bde1ab-fe75-4704-94c1-e42d166e2bbc" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:39:59.887" UserId="14277" Text="I want to buy an external drive to run SSD, without touching to my Windows HDD. However, this is a little investment so I am wondering if you can answer my few questions. Here is my laptop specs:&#xA;&#xA; - Intel Core i3&#xA; - 6GB RAM&#xA; - 1 To HDD (Windows 10)&#xA; - No graphic card&#xA;&#xA;Honestly, it runs very slowly, 5-10 minutes to startup, ~1 minute to start Microsoft Word. This is not the best laptop but this is not the question here. The questions are:&#xA;&#xA; 1. Is a HDD sufficient or it will run slowly as on Windows.&#xA; 2. Can all external SSD run Ubuntu, or I have to buy one in particular&#xA; 3. I am sure 256Gb is sufficient but are you sure it is? I would use Ubuntu time to time, for programming, and I won’t store any personnal data or whatever except code.&#xA;&#xA;I have already tried Dual Boot and it was good but I want another drive for Ubuntu now (don’t try to change my mind)&#xA;&#xA;Thank you for your answers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47502" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13305" RevisionGUID="d7bde1ab-fe75-4704-94c1-e42d166e2bbc" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:39:59.887" UserId="14277" Text="Is buying a SSD to run Ubuntu a good deal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47503" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13305" RevisionGUID="d7bde1ab-fe75-4704-94c1-e42d166e2bbc" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:39:59.887" UserId="14277" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13306" RevisionGUID="0dd5c496-6c4e-4be5-866f-f43ac086e89b" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:54:24.887" UserId="15679" Text="I'm planning to update some components on my computer and I'm wondering if I can buy two more modules of RAM without compatibility issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the new motherboard I will be buying: B365M-DS3H from [Gigabyte][1]. It has 4 slots of RAM where previously I only had 2 (this is my current motherboard: GA-H110M-S2H from [Gigabyte][2]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to take this opportunity to buy the two remaining RAM modules and go for the 32GB of RAM (8GB x4) because sometimes 16GB is small for my work. Currently I have two `HyperX Fury DDR4 2133 C14 8GB` (CPU-Z says: DDR4-2134, Part number KHX2133C14D4/8GB) and I'm wondering if I could buy a pack of two of any of these newer models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2400Mhz PC-19200 2x8GB CL15`&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2666Mhz PC-21300 2x8GB CL16`&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3200Mhz PC-25600 2x8GB CL16` (Too fast for the motherboard?)&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3466Mhz PC-27700 2x8GB CL16` (Too fast for the motherboard?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My concern is that even though the new motherboard supports 2666/2400/2133 MHz, my older RAM runs at 2133MHz and it will be different compared to the new RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a compatibility problem ?.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-H110M-S2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47505" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13306" RevisionGUID="0dd5c496-6c4e-4be5-866f-f43ac086e89b" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:54:24.887" UserId="15679" Text="Is there a compatibility problem with these RAM modules that run at different speeds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47506" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13306" RevisionGUID="0dd5c496-6c4e-4be5-866f-f43ac086e89b" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:54:24.887" UserId="15679" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47507" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13307" RevisionGUID="edb441cc-2188-4a46-93c3-9a13d2edfada" CreationDate="2020-04-17T14:08:50.460" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="Since you can not overclock memory on Intels current &quot;Bxxx&quot; motherboards, no matter which memory you buy, it will run at DDR4-2133. The slowest common denominator.  &#xD;&#xA;I would not expect any compatibility issues with these low memory frequencies.  &#xD;&#xA;It may be possible to overclock to DDR4-2666, but you can't really know until you tried. I would not count on that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: by the way, there is no &quot;too fast&quot; for memory. All higher end memory can be run at lower frequencies. It's just a waste of money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47508" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="fd874767-ab92-42c3-9422-69374e8caa8f" CreationDate="2020-04-17T15:01:15.220" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13308" RevisionGUID="f7c16782-cda5-4a64-a32a-a9fbe92a7d7b" CreationDate="2020-04-17T15:34:10.760" UserId="9825" Text="It is an excellent idea; I have six Ubuntu PCs and all were upgraded from HDD to SSD with no problem at all." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47510" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13308" RevisionGUID="7d607e26-b720-4d5c-bd18-0290f56e1713" CreationDate="2020-04-17T15:35:28.943" UserId="9825" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="*Is buying a SSD to run Ubuntu a good deal?* It is an excellent idea; I have six Ubuntu PCs and all were upgraded from HDD to SSD with no problem at all, and Ubuntu's performance is much better with the SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If an SSD will work in Windows without any special Windows driver &#xD;&#xA;on that machine, it will work in Ubuntu. 50GB would be adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47511" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13302" RevisionGUID="7ccd5f06-baca-40b4-9dc2-19548bc0c1df" CreationDate="2020-04-17T15:58:55.763" UserId="9825" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="Numerous [802.11ac][1]-ready 5GHz-capable USB WiFi adapters are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article][2] explains how to configure an Ubuntu Linux system to perform double duty with the [hostapd][3] package as a [Wireless Access Point][4] to allow other devices to connect to the web through the PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That PC must have a separate WiFi or Ethernet connection to an Internet-connected router or gateway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rule out all Tp-Link devices, as per a chat with Tp-Link chat support agent Rikka @ 08:33  on 2020-04-17.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/debian-ubuntu-linux-setting-wireless-access-point/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/bionic/man1/hostapd_cli.1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/WifiDocs/WirelessAccessPoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47512" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="e447d6f6-8282-41a4-bc6a-ce8872eac456" CreationDate="2020-04-17T16:06:15.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="eacc6816-822a-401a-a8d9-dd005b5388ab" CreationDate="2020-04-17T17:52:28.427" UserId="4065" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding custom loop - either kit or components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz OC whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# General info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xD;&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xD;&#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xD;&#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xD;&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xD;&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate pump-reservoir. &#xD;&#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xD;&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £1000 CPU here!&#xD;&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Existing recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="eacc6816-822a-401a-a8d9-dd005b5388ab" CreationDate="2020-04-17T17:52:28.427" UserId="4065" Text="High performance custom loop to cut my Noctua NH-D15 delta-T by about 25 C?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="eacc6816-822a-401a-a8d9-dd005b5388ab" CreationDate="2020-04-17T17:52:28.427" UserId="4065" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47519" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="0c516ef1-0d19-4557-b8c6-6449657b0654" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:16:22.250" UserId="9825" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47520" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="d0301062-e3aa-4612-a9bd-7ae7fcd870ca" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:16:35.427" UserId="9825" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="8aebd2d5-ad9f-4ed3-8aec-4f05d865e4b6" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:33:27.063" UserId="4065" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding CPU watercooling solution - either kit or &quot;custom loop&quot; components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz OC whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45 (or ideally even less, under 40 C). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# General info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xD;&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xD;&#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xD;&#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xD;&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xD;&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate durable pump-reservoir. &#xD;&#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xD;&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £1000 CPU here!&#xD;&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xD;&#xA;- **Materials:** For the loop gneerally, whatever's needed to avoid sediment/plastic deposit and not have to maintain often. For the metal components, no &quot;mixed materials&quot; electrolytic contact with the water, so probably copper/brass not aluminium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Existing recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47522" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="8aebd2d5-ad9f-4ed3-8aec-4f05d865e4b6" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:33:27.063" UserId="4065" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="High performance CPU cooling loop to cut my Noctua NH-D15 delta-T by about 25 C?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="fb08d39a-69e4-4cb4-bb37-36dc7ffeb5eb" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:39:04.927" UserId="4065" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding CPU watercooling solution - probably a suggestion of &quot;custom loop&quot; components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz OC whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45 (or ideally even less, under 40 C). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# General info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xD;&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xD;&#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xD;&#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xD;&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xD;&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate durable pump-reservoir. &#xD;&#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xD;&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £1000 CPU here!&#xD;&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xD;&#xA;- **Materials:** For the loop gneerally, whatever's needed to avoid sediment/plastic deposit and not have to maintain often. For the metal components, no &quot;mixed materials&quot; electrolytic contact with the water, so probably copper/brass not aluminium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Existing recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47524" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="f79cf30e-e05f-43ee-bb6f-6e471891b3e1" CreationDate="2020-04-17T18:40:22.347" UserId="4065" Comment="added 16 characters in body" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding CPU watercooling solution - probably a suggestion of &quot;custom loop&quot; components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz OC whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45 (or ideally even less, under 40 C). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# General info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xD;&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xD;&#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xD;&#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xD;&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xD;&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate durable pump-reservoir. &#xD;&#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xD;&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £2000 CPU/motherboard/RAM here!&#xD;&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xD;&#xA;- **Materials:** For the loop gneerally, whatever's needed to avoid sediment/plastic deposit and not have to maintain often. For the metal components, no &quot;mixed materials&quot; electrolytic contact with the water, so probably copper/brass not aluminium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Existing recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47525" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="08aee77e-86b8-4835-8641-e0fdd624451a" CreationDate="2020-04-17T19:05:10.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47526" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="6576e9d1-da18-4c66-bb3e-837c8507e7c2" CreationDate="2020-04-17T21:06:25.650" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13311" RevisionGUID="d553378c-091c-4ce8-aa5d-d386298f016b" CreationDate="2020-04-17T21:28:47.797" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="If you want an easy all-in-one solution, Alphacool has you covered: Alphacool Eiswand 360   &#xD;&#xA;complete set: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/new-products/21360/alphacool-eiswand-360-cpu-black  &#xD;&#xA;radiator/pump unit only, currently not available: https://www.alphacool.com/detail/index/sArticle/22164&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The set has everything you need in one ready to use package, which makes this quite a compelling deal at 350€.&#xD;&#xA;The radiator is a full-copper triple 120mm unit with 45m thickness. Combined with the 6 included fans in push/pull configuration, it should provide enough cooling for your needs, albeit at a slightly higher noise level than an even larger radiator might allow.&#xD;&#xA;This solution even has two pumps for redundancy, just what you wanted.  &#xD;&#xA;You can either power it through your system, or with the included power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alphacool, if you never heard of them, has a pretty good reputation in the water cooling business. They usually offer decent quality products at a reasonable price point. I used one of their their AIO water coolers in the past, and my last custom loop was built with their fittings and radiators. I have nothing negative to say about the quality.  &#xD;&#xA;And the reviews for this particular unit are pretty good too  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.overclockers.com/alphacool-eiswand-360-watercooling-kit-review/  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8276/alphacool-eiswand-external-cpu-liquid-cooler-review/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13311" RevisionGUID="ab9ee28c-9522-4b65-930d-c579f0756ef9" CreationDate="2020-04-17T21:35:24.430" UserDisplayName="user13807" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="If you want an easy all-in-one solution, Alphacool has you covered: Alphacool Eiswand 360   &#xD;&#xA;complete set: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/new-products/21360/alphacool-eiswand-360-cpu-black  &#xD;&#xA;radiator/pump unit only, currently not available: https://www.alphacool.com/detail/index/sArticle/22164&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The set has everything you need in one ready to use package, which makes this quite a compelling deal at 350€.&#xD;&#xA;The radiator is a full-copper triple 120mm unit with 45mm thickness. Combined with the 6 included fans in push/pull configuration, it should provide enough cooling for your needs, albeit at a slightly higher noise level than an even larger radiator might allow.&#xD;&#xA;This solution even has two pumps for redundancy, just what you wanted.  &#xD;&#xA;You can either power it through your system, or with the included power supply.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alphacool, if you never heard of them, has a pretty good reputation in the water cooling business. They usually offer decent quality products at a reasonable price point. I used one of their their AIO water coolers in the past, and my last custom loop was built with their fittings and radiators. I have nothing negative to say about the quality.  &#xD;&#xA;And the reviews for this particular unit are pretty good too  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.overclockers.com/alphacool-eiswand-360-watercooling-kit-review/  &#xD;&#xA;https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8276/alphacool-eiswand-external-cpu-liquid-cooler-review/index.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47539" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="a23dcf65-5349-48c4-b549-9d8be9f7608f" CreationDate="2020-04-18T02:04:50.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47540" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8020" RevisionGUID="ae53911b-7248-4845-ab1f-1ff9e8f94444" CreationDate="2020-04-18T06:01:15.080" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47541" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="6a7fcf33-db9b-4e99-acb9-45dce85ab7a2" CreationDate="2020-04-18T08:04:10.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="55686e30-5d97-45c5-b619-32732ef3a220" CreationDate="2020-04-18T08:43:33.200" UserId="15684" Text="I recently started wanting to build a computer (not like a gaming rig, a computer from **scratch**. Great set of videos [here.][1]), but instead of the MOS 6502, a clone processor to make computing history, a 486-based processor. I automatically assume it would be easier if I used a processor with a DIP40 socket instead of something with a ton of pins. It both just has less pins, which would be easier, and would be much easier for prototyping. I also need something power-efficient, because I plan to eventually put it into a laptop form factor. Not related to my processor question, but also, if there is a better site to post this question, please tell me. I barely ever touch any sites that arent AskUbuntu and StackOverflow. Anyways, suggestions are greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-inzig0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnzuMJLZRdU&amp;list=PLowKtXNTBypFbtuVMUVXNR0z1mu7dp7eH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="55686e30-5d97-45c5-b619-32732ef3a220" CreationDate="2020-04-18T08:43:33.200" UserId="15684" Text="What processor should I use in my first scratch 486 build?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="55686e30-5d97-45c5-b619-32732ef3a220" CreationDate="2020-04-18T08:43:33.200" UserId="15684" Text="&lt;processor&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13316" RevisionGUID="0a0ad5aa-b698-4f33-88a7-9ffecade75f2" CreationDate="2020-04-18T09:08:03.353" UserId="15685" Text="I am not sure why do want external SSD, If you are talking about additional drive, I will recommend you to go with 256GB SSD and install Windows/Ubuntu on it, Performance will increase a lot. I regularly upgrade older system with ssd and use HDD as storage. Go for it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13317" RevisionGUID="4cbafb06-505b-43c5-93e6-e214c4b7d59c" CreationDate="2020-04-18T09:24:11.823" UserId="15685" Text="For your requirements a minimum of 2 Processor(Scalable Processor) Server with 4 Ethernet and M.2 SSD support will do (Dell PowerEdge R740 Kind) and VMware® ESXi software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13044" RevisionGUID="69189a5b-46f7-4970-80e5-e7119e7caa6a" CreationDate="2020-04-18T12:51:07.043" UserId="1410" Comment="added 394 characters in body" Text="As per my comment, I found some affordable AIS receivers [here](https://mods.marin.nl/display/MIOD/AIS+Data+Sources).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cheapest seems to be [this one](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-a021-ais-receiver-dongle/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Receiving on dual channels (161.975 MHz and 162.025 MHz) alternately&#xD;&#xA;    Auto-hopping channel algorithm improves captured message rate by 4%&#xD;&#xA;    Manually adjustable hopping interval rates (0.25 sec, 1 sec, 30 sec and auto-hopping)&#xD;&#xA;    Sensitivity down to -104 dBm@30% PER&#xD;&#xA;    Up to 12 nautical miles receiving range&#xD;&#xA;    USB 2.0 powered (&lt;26mA @5.0V)&#xD;&#xA;    Serial output: 38400 bps baud rate over USB&#xD;&#xA;    Message output in NMEA 0183 format&#xD;&#xA;    QK-A021 AIS Receiver USB Dongle(Auto-hopping V2.0)&#xD;&#xA;    SMA connector for 50 Ohm VHF antenna&#xD;&#xA;    SMA to BNC coaxial adaptor included&#xD;&#xA;    Compatible with Windows XP,7,8,10, Mac OS X, Linux systems&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What’s included?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    1 x QK-A021 v.2.0&#xD;&#xA;    1 x SMA-BNC coaxial adapter&#xD;&#xA;    1 x USB extension cable&#xD;&#xA;    1 x CD containing Manuals, Configuration Software and driver&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For $60 / Eur 55 / £50, I doubt that I will find cheaper. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only question is what kind of an antenna I would need. They sell [one for a further £30](https://www.quark-elec.com/product/qk-as02-149-vhf-antenna/), but I will shop around for a cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For programming, I would imagine that it presents itself as a serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] I bought [this antenna](https://www.radioworld.co.uk/radar-int_spare_indoor_aerial_for_airnav_radarbox) for £20, and, yes, the device presents itself as a virtual serial port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Further update] it turns out that this particular solution is of no use to me. Despite my living less than 2 miles from a major working river, the device cannot detect a single vessel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I imagine that I will have to purchase a more expensive device &amp; will post details here. Meanwhile, this is probably adequate for use on open water. It does seem to get reasonabale reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNOWj.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPH6i.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47560" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="9a49f00f-9b2c-4c88-a825-593c4075bc8c" CreationDate="2020-04-18T16:05:50.603" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47562" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="7e9b18e1-b96c-4e01-85fb-70d3b563e435" CreationDate="2020-04-18T18:21:57.500" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I recently started wanting to build a computer (not like a gaming rig, a computer from **scratch**. Great set of videos [here][1]), but instead of the MOS 6502, a clone processor to make computing history, a 486-based processor. I automatically assume it would be easier if I used a processor with a DIP40 socket instead of something with a ton of pins. It both just has less pins, which would be easier, and would be much easier for prototyping. I also need something power-efficient, because I plan to eventually put it into a laptop form factor. Not related to my processor question, but also, if there is a better site to post this question, please tell me. I barely ever touch any sites that aren't Ask Ubuntu and Stack Overflow. Anyways, suggestions are greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnzuMJLZRdU&amp;list=PLowKtXNTBypFbtuVMUVXNR0z1mu7dp7eH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47563" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="7e9b18e1-b96c-4e01-85fb-70d3b563e435" CreationDate="2020-04-18T18:21:57.500" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by -1 edit id of 1085" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47564" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="64cf2765-10b6-4767-ac46-aadf955c1c59" CreationDate="2020-04-18T18:21:57.500" UserId="15684" Comment="typos corrected, thanks removed as per https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/2950/295232" Text="I recently started wanting to build a computer (not like a gaming rig, a computer from **scratch**. Great set of videos [here][1]), but instead of the MOS 6502, a clone processor to make computing history, a 486-based processor. I automatically assume it would be easier if I used a processor with a DIP40 socket instead of something with a ton of pins. It both just has less pins, which would be easier, and would be much easier for prototyping. I also need something power-efficient, because I plan to eventually put it into a laptop form factor. Not related to my processor question, but also, if there is a better site to post this question, please tell me. I barely ever ask questions on Stack Exchange. Anyways, suggestions are greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnzuMJLZRdU&amp;list=PLowKtXNTBypFbtuVMUVXNR0z1mu7dp7eH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47568" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13001" RevisionGUID="2ba8b7d3-aa28-4bd9-ac41-0a18bbfd50c9" CreationDate="2020-04-18T19:06:40.840" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47569" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="cdcb9f82-d286-45fd-9c59-4677cdd77315" CreationDate="2020-04-18T20:04:45.560" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47574" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="0cf76124-b4d4-4eeb-b928-099326b91fcb" CreationDate="2020-04-18T21:03:40.433" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47575" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="c49b7148-864a-4375-90b1-9519cc93fb8f" CreationDate="2020-04-18T22:06:15.800" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47580" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="9b8b0d8c-d8d3-40aa-9908-bf12b446d27f" CreationDate="2020-04-19T02:05:55.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47592" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="50f9bd44-a98e-4e30-84a4-2e53f620e250" CreationDate="2020-04-19T21:02:50.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47597" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13087" RevisionGUID="445f6a86-cb8d-423a-bb8e-7d01cc754257" CreationDate="2020-04-19T23:05:35.683" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47604" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2393" RevisionGUID="a8afa80c-4645-4b87-a610-9919c455f540" CreationDate="2020-04-20T02:05:20.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47605" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="b4b08333-ca2a-4e1f-9120-8304fe3f0fd1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T02:41:12.020" UserId="15603" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I am in search of earbuds that have a good quality mic, that sounds almost professional, but also under 100 USD, i don't care about the quality of the sound nor comfort. 3.5mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47608" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="13204" RevisionGUID="78d20845-d133-40d3-9057-700cb7650ea1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T06:40:15.493" UserDisplayName="user13807" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:13807,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;MechEng&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="e02d038f-3469-4cfc-a3df-20cb1cecb47b" CreationDate="2020-04-20T08:09:47.920" UserId="7786" Text="&gt; The 1.8-meter [Power Adapter Extension Cable](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/388894/150109) is an AC extension cord that provides extra length for your Apple power adapter. Use it with MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From the [Apple's page on it](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MK122LL/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=8b).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only official one seems to be a 1.8-meter long cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone please help me find a much longer version, I am imagining about 5 metres?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47610" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="e02d038f-3469-4cfc-a3df-20cb1cecb47b" CreationDate="2020-04-20T08:09:47.920" UserId="7786" Text="Extra-long Power Adapter Extension Cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47611" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="e02d038f-3469-4cfc-a3df-20cb1cecb47b" CreationDate="2020-04-20T08:09:47.920" UserId="7786" Text="&lt;power&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47612" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13329" RevisionGUID="9669ff9f-b223-48b1-ae9e-f3bfecbf3ada" CreationDate="2020-04-20T09:09:48.147" UserId="15668" Text="In the end I went with the Logitech K800. Watched many videos of top rated keyboards and many were still as loud, if not louder than my current one. Even top mechanical ones with low key were surprisingly loud in the videos. The K800 was extrememly quiet and although well above my initial budget, it seemed to be exactly what I was looking for." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="795b9041-32dc-4d83-bf7b-920f85339179" CreationDate="2020-04-20T09:11:15.753" UserId="7786" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="&gt; The 1.8-meter [Power Adapter Extension Cable](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/388894/150109) is an AC extension cord that provides extra length for your Apple power adapter. Use it with MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [Apple's page on it](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MK122LL/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=8b).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only official one seems to be a 1.8-meter long cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone please help me find a much longer version, I am imagining about 5 metres?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13302" RevisionGUID="7d46d031-3aaf-4d01-a540-bdeae616815d" CreationDate="2020-04-20T15:18:28.317" UserId="9825" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="Numerous [802.11ac][1]-ready 5GHz-capable USB WiFi adapters are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article][2] explains how to configure an Ubuntu Linux system to perform double duty with the [hostapd][3] package as a [Wireless Access Point][4] to allow other devices to connect to the web through the PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That PC must have a separate WiFi or Ethernet connection to an Internet-connected router or gateway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Rule out all Tp-Link devices, *as per a chat with Tp-Link chat support agent Rikka @ 08:33  on 2020-04-17.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/debian-ubuntu-linux-setting-wireless-access-point/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/bionic/man1/hostapd_cli.1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/WifiDocs/WirelessAccessPoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47617" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13302" RevisionGUID="117dcda0-73d6-453d-9d97-a6b5713bfbec" CreationDate="2020-04-20T15:22:21.540" UserId="9825" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="Numerous [802.11ac][1]-ready 5GHz-capable USB WiFi adapters are on the market.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This article][2] explains how to configure an Ubuntu Linux system to perform double duty with  [hostapd][3] as a [Wireless Access Point][4], allowing other devices to connect to the web through the PC. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That PC must have a separate WiFi or Ethernet connection to an Internet-connected router or gateway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggest you rule out all Tp-Link USB devices, *as per a chat with TP-Link chat support agent Rikka @ 08:33  on 2020-04-17* they don't support WAP configuration. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/debian-ubuntu-linux-setting-wireless-access-point/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/bionic/man1/hostapd_cli.1.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/WifiDocs/WirelessAccessPoint" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47618" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13330" RevisionGUID="07ff2a92-5745-4287-ad62-16bd2a4bd529" CreationDate="2020-04-20T15:53:32.770" UserId="7532" Text="If you were looking at extending the DC end of a power supply (Magsafe, AC adapter, power brick), you would need to worry about the power drop over a greater length of cable. This is not because it's DC but because your electronics use relatively low voltages. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because you are extending the AC end of your power supply, you are better off with a [proper extension cable][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Profile-Extension-White/dp/B071JNPS7F" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11604" RevisionGUID="1a363cb8-6f20-4d37-8ff3-4f3ab2f591e6" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:03:45.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47620" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13330" RevisionGUID="dc887296-eb64-4f44-9784-7adcdf6780a3" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:05:46.690" UserId="7532" Comment="added 798 characters in body" Text="If you were looking at extending the DC end of a power supply (Magsafe, AC adapter, power brick), you would need to worry about the power drop over a greater length of cable. This is not because it's DC but because your electronics use relatively low voltages. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because you are extending the AC end of your power supply, you are better off with a proper extension cable. In the same way, this is because the AC end is using higher voltages and can travel greater distance without voltage drop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This 40ft 16AWG cable][1] is rated for 13A at 120V, that is 1560W, while your Magsafe is less than 100W. For this length, 16AWG wire will only see a drop of about a tenth of a volt for 100W of power. That is perfectly fine. You do not want to go less than 16AWG becuase that will limit what else you can do with the cable. Be wary of any cables that do not list what size the cable is. Here is a [similar cable][2] if you only want 25ft. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you plan to run anything heaver, I recommend a 14AWG cable. This is typically what is installed in buildings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AWG - American Wire Gauge&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Electrician-02356-01ME-40-Feet-Extension/dp/B0039VC672&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cord-feet-White/dp/B075BM2H62" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47621" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13330" RevisionGUID="43770f0e-5759-45e2-9e44-da4eeea53fc4" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:16:47.450" UserId="7532" Comment="added 449 characters in body" Text="If you were looking at extending the DC end of a power supply (Magsafe, AC adapter, power brick), you would need to worry about the power drop over a greater length of cable. This is not because it's DC but because your electronics use relatively low voltages. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because you are extending the AC end of your power supply, you are better off with a proper extension cable. In the same way, this is because the AC end is using higher voltages and can travel greater distance without voltage drop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This 40ft 16AWG cable][1] is rated for 13A at 120V, that is 1560W, while your Magsafe is less than 100W. For this length, 16AWG wire will only see a drop of about a tenth of a volt for 100W of power. That is perfectly fine. You do not want to go less than 16AWG becuase that will limit what else you can do with the cable. Be wary of any cables that do not list what size the cable is. Here is a [similar cable][2] if you only want 25ft. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The apple connectors do not specify a size or wire gauge. They are meant to supply little power over short distances. Any off brand products that go longer will probably be cheap small wires and that kind of power drop is not good for your devices or safety. If you plan to run anything heaver than a computer, or run multiple devices, I recommend a 14AWG cable. This is typically what is installed in buildings and will see much less voltage drop. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that any &quot;voltage drop&quot; in the cable is heat in the cable. Small cables over long distances are unsafe. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AWG - American Wire Gauge&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Electrician-02356-01ME-40-Feet-Extension/dp/B0039VC672&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cord-feet-White/dp/B075BM2H62" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47622" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13331" RevisionGUID="393fb20b-903f-4b86-bb64-20fbc30dad66" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:20:02.283" UserId="9825" Text="Both the long cord for the MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power supplied end with a [keyed connector][1] I have not been able to find on cables. It's the [figure 8][2] connector plug commonly used with all kinds of radios and other electronic devices, aka Non-Polarized IEC 60320 C7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I tried that, and it fits, and works with my MagSafe and circa-2012 Unibody MacBook on US mains power. One such US cord, 5m length, is the https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7674&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a UK cord, here's a 5m version https://www.newark.com/pro-elec/pel00505/power-cord-uk-iec-60320-c7-5m/dp/07AH4471&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, for reference, the stock Apple power cord for the UK is the Consultation with an Apple Specialist in chat revealed the UK 1.8m meter cord from the wall socket is https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MK122B/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=85 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://imgur.com/a/U2rlIfX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/76741.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47627" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13333" RevisionGUID="d8e65c08-2006-471c-a1fc-ac4ab4c83cd6" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:54:46.343" UserId="15685" Text="If you are professional user of autocad then you need to look at professional mobile workstation like Dell Precision or Hp Zbook " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47629" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="ae71db20-ecee-4fcf-96c2-a751e72ac132" CreationDate="2020-04-20T17:09:41.403" UserId="7786" Comment="added 244 characters in body" Text="&gt; The 1.8-meter [Power Adapter Extension Cable](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/388894/150109) is an AC extension cord that provides extra length for your Apple power adapter. Use it with MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [Apple's page on it](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MK122LL/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=8b).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only official one seems to be a 1.8-meter long cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone please help me find a much longer version, I am imagining about 5 metres?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like one for the UK please. The reason I want one instead of a traditional extension cable, and plugging my charger into that, is so that I can transport it more easily and have less cables and less cable connections to worry about." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13334" RevisionGUID="1a465448-faaa-462d-943d-67e283c225b4" CreationDate="2020-04-20T17:30:07.517" UserId="12532" Text="Ok, I have a sound device that works with battery, but this little friend here stopped working,in fact it still works, but apparently it is sending a lot less energy than it should, nor being able to turn on the LED that indicates it is charging.&#xD;&#xA;[![Connector to charger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I open this and found that battery&#xD;&#xA;[![Batery][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That goes here on the chip&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have much knowledge about electronics other than the basics, I can identify some things on the device, but not enough, someone could tell me how to get me to send power to the device without needing the battery or the connector to charge&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0R6H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pr3E6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkZi2.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47631" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13334" RevisionGUID="1a465448-faaa-462d-943d-67e283c225b4" CreationDate="2020-04-20T17:30:07.517" UserId="12532" Text="Need some help to make a battery powered device work direct on power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47632" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13334" RevisionGUID="1a465448-faaa-462d-943d-67e283c225b4" CreationDate="2020-04-20T17:30:07.517" UserId="12532" Text="&lt;sound-system&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47637" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13337" RevisionGUID="4dab4009-edb9-483a-a4fc-3e184400a150" CreationDate="2020-04-20T19:39:00.203" UserId="12532" Text="I was looking for ways to control the voltage of an outlet, since we are in quarantine, I would not find resistors and transistors. But I just remembered that USB cables already do this job for me. As I have several unused at home, I stripped one, stuck the negative and positive of those that were connected to the battery and it is working perfectly. I was even able to use one of the screw holes to make the wire exit.&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ah, it seems that I touched some circuit of the led monitor, now it is not correctly positioned, but a minimal damage for having it working again&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOocq.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47639" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13331" RevisionGUID="14839bff-32a5-4414-b2d4-3e9dd0eb9ffa" CreationDate="2020-04-20T20:10:13.067" UserId="9825" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="Both the long cord for the MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power supplied end with a [keyed connector][1] I have not been able to find on cables, but it's similar to the [figure 8][2] connector plug commonly used with all kinds of radios and other electronic devices, aka Non-Polarized IEC 60320 C7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I tried a 'figure 8' cable. It fits, and works with my MagSafe and circa-2012 Unibody MacBook on US mains power. One such US cord, 5m length, is the https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7674&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a UK cord, here's a 5m version https://www.newark.com/pro-elec/pel00505/power-cord-uk-iec-60320-c7-5m/dp/07AH4471&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, for reference, the stock Apple power cord for the UK is the Consultation with an Apple Specialist in chat revealed the UK 1.8m meter cord from the wall socket is https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MK122B/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=85 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://imgur.com/a/U2rlIfX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/76741.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13341" RevisionGUID="dcb79804-e4f8-4da5-8563-7f827e8cdfd7" CreationDate="2020-04-20T21:31:12.940" UserId="9825" Text="This list of [CPUs and their sockets][1] shows you would be limited to two very historical CPUs indeed, the [8088][2] and [8086][3], if you use a DIP40 socket.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither of those will execute the full 486 instruction set. To run the full 486 instruction set, you'd need a PGA socket (of which there are many, listed in the first link in the first sentence) or a slot (op cit.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_socket#List_of_x86_CPU_sockets_and_slots&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8088&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8086" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47645" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13341" RevisionGUID="f3e17523-e361-4a9f-accc-3daaceecfdcc" CreationDate="2020-04-21T15:07:23.887" UserId="9825" Comment="added 29 characters in body" Text="This list of [CPUs and their sockets][1] shows you would be limited to two very historical CPUs indeed, the [8088][2] and [8086][3], if you use a DIP40 socket.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither of those are 486-based, nor will they will execute the full 486 instruction set. To run the full 486 instruction set, you'd need a PGA socket (of which there are many, listed in the first link in the first sentence) or a slot (op cit.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_socket#List_of_x86_CPU_sockets_and_slots&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8088&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8086" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47647" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="2f59c2c1-33db-4c72-b289-a8e0b4cebd16" CreationDate="2020-04-21T18:02:40.273" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47649" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="2825fdb6-7f48-4395-83c2-ca301252e137" CreationDate="2020-04-21T21:03:30.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47650" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13331" RevisionGUID="0ed85af6-8767-4081-afd0-7e489b341c0f" CreationDate="2020-04-21T21:25:47.653" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 31 characters in body" Text="Both the long cord for the MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power supplied end with a [keyed connector][1] I have not been able to find on cables, but it's similar to the [figure 8][2] connector plug commonly used with all kinds of radios and other electronic devices, aka Non-Polarized IEC 60320 C7. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I tried a 'figure 8' cable. It fits, and works with my MagSafe and circa-2012 Unibody MacBook on US mains power. One such US cord, 5m length, is the https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7674&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a UK cord, here's a 5m version https://www.newark.com/pro-elec/pel00505/power-cord-uk-iec-60320-c7-5m/dp/07AH4471&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, for reference, the stock Apple power cord for the UK (per a consultation with an Apple Specialist in chat) is 1.8m meter long, the https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MK122B/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=85 .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://imgur.com/a/U2rlIfX&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/76741.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13342" RevisionGUID="4f449963-a680-4e1a-ae97-be8b7b8f6236" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:18:37.870" UserId="9825" Text="if you can buy the GTX1650, ignore the &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R5 2400G = 4 cores 3.6 GHz base 3.9 GHz boost clock RX11 Vega graphics &#xD;&#xA;for the card is far superior to onboard graphics. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, it's a battle for your budget, when it's time to buy, of the the  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R5 1600 = 6 cores 3.2 GHz base 3.6 GHz boost clock &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;vs.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;R5 3600 = 6 cores 3.6 GHz base 4.2 GHz boost clock (3500 discontinued)  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;plus [whatever else AMD comes out with][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcworld.com/article/3539431/amds-b550-motherboards-will-bring-pcie-4-0-to-the-masses-99-ryzen-3-cpu-in-tow.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47655" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13341" RevisionGUID="ba6a0ac9-2b6a-46d2-85cb-e4e64f7071b8" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:40:57.107" UserId="9825" Comment="added 179 characters in body" Text="This list of [CPUs and their sockets][1] shows you would be limited to two very historical CPUs indeed, the [8088][2] and [8086][3], if you use a DIP40 socket.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither of those are 486-based, nor will they will execute the full 486 instruction set. To run the full 486 instruction set, you'd need a PGA socket (of which there are many, listed in the first link in the first sentence) or a slot (op cit.). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I was repairing PCs, and teaching dealers how to repair them, back when CPUs came in slots, and I will tell you PGA sockets gave us a *lot* less trouble than slot-based CPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_socket#List_of_x86_CPU_sockets_and_slots&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8088&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8086" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47656" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13136" RevisionGUID="a4677dc8-650b-42ac-8333-2fa7c9e31509" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:45:03.080" UserId="9825" Comment="added 122 characters in body" Text="So, you're in Suid-Afrika. Get a lot of lightning?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did, growing up in Zap Central, the lightning capital of the United States, with &gt; 90 days/year where you could depend on a lightning strike within a mile.  The county was also flat and sub-tropical; the highest ground was five meters above mean high tide. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The highest building in the entire county at the time (the largest county east of the Mississippi, I might add) was the administration building of the county government complex, where the county's mainframe was. LOTS of lightning, lots of power outages, many extended. Oh, and did I mention hurricanes?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the axle of a motor-generator set was attached to a heavy flywheel. The motor spun the flywheel and the axle, the generator turned the rotation into clean steady power. When (not  if, but when) the power fails, the flywheel would run until a diesel genny could be started to pick up the load. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No need for inverters, rectifiers, or batteries, which are all failure-prone and high maintenance. It was also the kind of thing a shade-tree mechanic could keep running easily. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13343" RevisionGUID="6cb271d2-9c76-4319-950f-2b7dfe2bbde2" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:56:32.673" UserId="9825" Text="This [$60 kit][1] (FOB Destination) or drone, battery, charger, controller, and miscellany packs up into an included hardcase 8.3&quot; x 5.2&quot; x 2.6&quot;, which fits in an overhead luggage bin of even commuter aircraft. The battery is well under commercial airline regulation limits. It provides 1080P video and the drone's video records on iOS or Android smartphones. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Folding drone in its case][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.opsbuya.com/products/2020-new-2.4g-wifi-luggage-mini-folding-rc-drone-hd-1080p-camera?variant=15435458&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzAVx.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="a082d49d-dac4-4a5a-8eff-e7ab13ed8ab3" CreationDate="2020-04-22T02:14:17.137" UserId="15704" Text="I have a PC/Mac, laptop, tablet, and MP3 player set up on a multi-port desktop mixer box.  (Several brands to choose from: Maker Hart, Moukey, Behringer, Mackie Mix, etc.)  I choose **not** to go USB or Bluetooth to avoid programming glitches, incompatibilities and the inevitable software upgrades of external devices that render a unit unusable—no, I’m sticking with 3.5mm / 1/4” / etc. jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that I’m teleworking from home, I have to answer calls on my cellphone and landline and connect my company laptop to my monitors, keyboard and mouse.  [Got a KVM switch for those last three.] But KVMs don’t play nicely with audio or mics.  So I got an external mic switch to use along with my headphones—but I have to split the 4-plug into separate mic jacks and headphone jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fine.  It works.  But it’s not ideal.  The mixer I have doesn’t have a mute, nor does the mic switch.  That’s why I’m asking if anyone has recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal teleworking box would have:&#xD;&#xA;1) headset input jack for landline telephone,&#xD;&#xA;2) headset input jack for cellphone,&#xD;&#xA;3) 2-4x audio input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;4) 2-4x mic input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;5) separate channel volume adjusters or gains for audio and mic inputs,&#xD;&#xA;6) separate mutes for each channel,&#xD;&#xA;7) master volume,&#xD;&#xA;8) master mic mute (cough button),&#xD;&#xA;9) input and output jacks can be any mix of 2.5mm, 3.5mm, 1/4”, XLR (mic connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve searched for mixers, switchboards, DJ boxes, telecommuting, webcasting, and other such equipment." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47659" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="a082d49d-dac4-4a5a-8eff-e7ab13ed8ab3" CreationDate="2020-04-22T02:14:17.137" UserId="15704" Text="Single audio hub: PC, laptop, tablet, landline, cellphone, headphones, mic, mixer for telework, vlog, gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47660" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="a082d49d-dac4-4a5a-8eff-e7ab13ed8ab3" CreationDate="2020-04-22T02:14:17.137" UserId="15704" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;&lt;telephony&gt;&lt;mixing-console&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47663" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="95f3e0bd-deae-4195-ab5e-10d7e52111c9" CreationDate="2020-04-22T03:03:45.393" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47664" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13346" RevisionGUID="37889f06-d819-45ea-9aba-24421abb4688" CreationDate="2020-04-22T03:15:43.980" UserId="15704" Text="Have you looked at changing the keyboard layout within system preferences on the iMac?  The physical keyboard will be the same one you have now, but it won’t type using the QWERTZ layout anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Typing Cat has a good pictorial: https://thetypingcat.com/howto/change-your-keyboard-layout-mac-os-x&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then it’s just a matter of rubbing off the letters/characters you don’t want, drawing/painting on the replacement ones, and covering with a clear nail polish or lacquer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did that when I was learning a new language. [I tried the taped-on sticky note trick for the keys, but those wore off too quickly.  Used a fine Sharpie pen and lacquer to make it permanent.]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47678" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="9c1561ce-7230-4a9b-b48e-779698a99aee" CreationDate="2020-04-22T09:44:34.653" UserId="15704" Comment="Edited to insert a budget range." Text="I have a PC/Mac, laptop, tablet, and MP3 player set up on a multi-port desktop mixer box.  (Several brands to choose from: Maker Hart, Moukey, Behringer, Mackie Mix, etc.)  I choose **not** to go USB or Bluetooth to avoid programming glitches, incompatibilities and the inevitable software upgrades of external devices that render a unit unusable—no, I’m sticking with 3.5mm / 1/4” / etc. jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that I’m teleworking from home, I have to answer calls on my cellphone and landline and connect my company laptop to my monitors, keyboard and mouse.  [Got a KVM switch for those last three.] But KVMs don’t play nicely with audio or mics.  So I got an external mic switch to use along with my headphones—but I have to split the 4-plug into separate mic jacks and headphone jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fine.  It works.  But it’s not ideal.  The mixer I have doesn’t have a mute, nor does the mic switch.  That’s why I’m asking if anyone has recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal teleworking box would have:&#xD;&#xA;1) headset input jack for landline telephone,&#xD;&#xA;2) headset input jack for cellphone,&#xD;&#xA;3) 2-4x audio input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;4) 2-4x mic input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;5) separate channel volume adjusters or gains for audio and mic inputs,&#xD;&#xA;6) separate mutes for each channel,&#xD;&#xA;7) master volume,&#xD;&#xA;8) master mic mute (cough button),&#xD;&#xA;9) input and output jacks can be any mix of 2.5mm, 3.5mm, 1/4”, XLR (mic connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve searched for mixers, switchboards, DJ boxes, telecommuting, webcasting, and other such equipment.  I’ve seen price ranges of sub-$50 for individual bare-bones mixers and switches (my current setup is a couple of such items, plus the cables/adapters required to connect them).  Prices ranged based on number of inputs &amp; outputs, so I get that.  Since I’m looking for a combo, all-in-one audio hub, I’d expect to pay more, of course.  $100-500 would be the sweet spot; whereas, the $1k or more range begins to rub against the cost-for-convenience curve and how much I can settle with turning knobs and switches on three separate boxes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47679" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="cd63203c-7bec-4348-9830-5bb6f9fa9551" CreationDate="2020-04-22T10:39:55.267" UserId="15713" Text="I am looking for a kvm switch that will support my Logitech unifying receiver.&#xD;&#xA;from my understanding the only ones capable of that are kvm switches using semi or full DDM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue is that most of the kvm's I found are about 150$ or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;what is the cheapest KVM switch out there (with dvi or hdmi connections) I can get?&#xD;&#xA;I found kvm's switches for 20$-35$ on aliexpress- but those use USB emulations which is no good.&#xD;&#xA;Am I deceiving myself in believing I can find a kvm in that price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;btw- screen resolution isn't too mush of a concern. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47680" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="cd63203c-7bec-4348-9830-5bb6f9fa9551" CreationDate="2020-04-22T10:39:55.267" UserId="15713" Text="kvm switch with semi\full ddm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47681" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="cd63203c-7bec-4348-9830-5bb6f9fa9551" CreationDate="2020-04-22T10:39:55.267" UserId="15713" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47683" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13351" RevisionGUID="c54f3793-2e89-4234-a0bc-deddcb6008ae" CreationDate="2020-04-22T13:32:39.370" UserId="15714" Text="I currently have a system with an Intel CPU and an integrated GPU (see below). I am pondering adding a more powerful GPU, say, along the lines of these:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1070-gv-n1070ixoc-8gd/p/N82E16814125893&#xD;&#xA;https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1060-gv-n1060ixoc-6gd/p/N82E16814125903?&amp;quicklink=true&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The specs of my system are as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813157504?Item=N82E16813157504&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Memory (x2): https://www.newegg.com/corsair-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820233366?Item=N82E16820233366&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power Supply: https://www.newegg.com/silverstone-sfx-st30sf-300w/p/N82E16817256097?Item=N82E16817256097&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU + GPU: https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i7-4th-gen-core-i7-4790k/p/N82E16819117369?Item=N82E16819117369&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU Cooler: https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9b-se2/p/N82E16835608016?Item=N82E16835608016&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD1: https://www.newegg.com/seagate-1tb-st1000lm014/p/N82E16822178340?Item=N82E16822178340&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDD2: https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-4tb-st4000lm024/p/N82E16822179105?Item=9SIAAY9AWM5481&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question is whether adding the new graphics card will prove too much for the 300W power supply. The estimate I have made was 88W for the CPU, based on the so-called Thermal Design Power or the amount of heat the sink needs to dissipate. I also know that the new card will require about 120-180W of power, depending on the model. This leaves us with about 100 Watts for everything else in the machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, the question is whether I should be able to make this work without swapping the power supply. I really like the latter and am not sure whether the company still makes something similar. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I estimate the power consumption of the rest of PC?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How much &quot;allowance&quot; and &quot;breathing room&quot; should one have in form of the wattage not taken up by anything to make the system stable and not shut down suddenly because of lack of power? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47684" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13351" RevisionGUID="c54f3793-2e89-4234-a0bc-deddcb6008ae" CreationDate="2020-04-22T13:32:39.370" UserId="15714" Text="Adding Video Card to PC: Power and Wattage Considerations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47685" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13351" RevisionGUID="c54f3793-2e89-4234-a0bc-deddcb6008ae" CreationDate="2020-04-22T13:32:39.370" UserId="15714" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="38c92963-aea8-49de-ad26-0c9a62591db3" CreationDate="2020-04-22T15:35:30.120" UserId="9825" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs, relying on the specs of each component. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47689" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="07958456-2eb3-4368-af98-51c74bbc318f" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:10:03.623" UserId="9825" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter (such as [this one][1]) between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs, relying on the specs of each component. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="6d6ee224-d1d5-48fd-99b4-caca5664314c" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:15:20.390" UserId="9825" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter (such as [this one][1]) between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs, relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data. For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive 1, the [Seagate ST1000LM014][2] uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W.   &#xD;&#xA;Drive 2, the [Seagate ST4000LM024][3] uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47691" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13355" RevisionGUID="2833c84f-f1d0-4284-9d2e-a9978a73dd00" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:17:40.507" UserId="15704" Text="Question: Do your monitors have multiple inputs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Acers take HDMI, DVI &amp; VGA.  I have plugged my work laptop in on HDMI, personal laptop to DVI.  A third antique computer connects to the VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main desktop (where Windows bar sits) is on left monitor, but MacBook Pro’s main display is the right monitor.  Both laptops extend their desktops onto the other monitor.  Pressing the input select on each monitor flips between HDMI, DVI &amp; VGA, without the need for KVM if I use the laptop keyboards and touch pads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By not using a KVM, I can have both main displays shown simultaneously—whereas, running video through KVM forces me to see *either* the Windows *or* the Mac, not both.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Neither computer is directly connected to the other in my setup.  For me, the KVM is just to share external USB keyboard and ergonomic mouse between both laptops, but that’s just personal preference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your MacBook Pro’s screen can be utilized if the older monitor doesn’t have multiple inputs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47692" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="a54ab874-d5b2-404f-978d-6e130a011bac" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:22:30.737" UserId="9825" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter (such as [this one][1]) between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs, relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data. For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive 1, the [Seagate ST1000LM014][2] uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W.   &#xD;&#xA;Drive 2, the [Seagate ST4000LM024][3] uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W.&#xD;&#xA;But, the [Asrock Z97E-ITXac motherboard][4] has no power consumption data, so you'd need to contact [Asrock support][5] to find what its maximum power draw would be, separate from the CPU, RAM, and other components.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z97E-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="62775877-efd8-4cef-bdbd-e80bffef04c8" CreationDate="2020-04-22T17:38:16.573" UserId="9825" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter (such as [this one][1]) between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs for each rail (bus, or voltage specific circuit) of the power supply ('PSU'), relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available power from your 300W PSU per page 3 of the manual:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;18.7A max for +12V = 224W  &#xD;&#xA;7.58A max for +5V  = 37.9W   &#xD;&#xA;7.96A max for +3.3V = 26.2W   &#xD;&#xA;0.31A max for -12V = 3.7W  &#xD;&#xA;1.56A max for +5Vsb (standby) = 7.8W  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive 1, the [Seagate ST1000LM014][2] uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W on the +5V rail   &#xD;&#xA;Drive 2, the [Seagate ST4000LM024][3] uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W on the +5V rail.  &#xD;&#xA;But, the [Asrock Z97E-ITXac motherboard][4] has no power consumption data, so you'd need to contact [Asrock support][5] to find what its maximum power draw would be, separate from the CPU, RAM, and other components.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My conclusion: Upgrading the power supply would be wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z97E-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="aed85009-7f29-4189-a4f5-a39985eb874f" CreationDate="2020-04-22T17:55:04.567" UserId="9825" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="Method 1 (most reliable): Put a wattmeter (such as [this one][1]) between the PC as is and the wall, and measure what the entire PC now consumes. Components have a 'spec', but that's not often enforced and could be inaccurate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Method 2: Do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs for each rail (bus, or voltage specific circuit) of the power supply ('PSU'), relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available power from your 300W PSU per page 4 of the manual:  &#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Votage * Amperage * Tolerance factor = Max Watts&#xD;&#xA;  Rail	Amp	Tlrnc	Watts&#xD;&#xA;  +12V	22	0.96	253W  &#xD;&#xA;  -12V	0.5	0.89	5.3W  &#xD;&#xA;  +5V	20	0.94	94W	* Max combined 103W  &#xD;&#xA;  +3.3V	21	0.94	65W	* Max combined 103W  &#xD;&#xA;  SB	2.5	0.94	11.7 standby +5VDC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Tolerance factor allows for variations in the load and line regulation.&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive 1, the [Seagate ST1000LM014][2] uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W on the +5V rail   &#xD;&#xA;Drive 2, the [Seagate ST4000LM024][3] uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W on the +5V rail.  &#xD;&#xA;But, the [Asrock Z97E-ITXac motherboard][4] has no power consumption data, so you'd need to contact [Asrock support][5] to find what its maximum power draw would be, separate from the CPU, RAM, and other components.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My conclusion: Upgrading the power supply would be wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z97E-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47699" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13352" RevisionGUID="e8f385dd-1ad3-456e-88eb-5ac5e70d677d" CreationDate="2020-04-22T17:57:54.547" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 233 characters in body" Text="We can do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs for each rail (bus, or voltage specific circuit) of the power supply ('PSU'), relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data, and use the startup current as that's the maximum amperage .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Available power from your 300W PSU per page 4 of the manual:  &#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Votage * Amperage * Tolerance factor = Max Watts&#xD;&#xA;  Rail	Amp	Tlrnc	Watts&#xD;&#xA;  +12V	22	0.96	253W  &#xD;&#xA;  -12V	0.5	0.89	5.3W  &#xD;&#xA;  +5V	20	0.94	94W	* Max combined 103W  &#xD;&#xA;  +3.3V	21	0.94	65W	* Max combined 103W  &#xD;&#xA;  SB	2.5	0.94	11.7 standby +5VDC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Tolerance factor allows for variations in the load and line regulation.&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Drive 1, the [Seagate ST1000LM014][2] uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W on the +5V rail   &#xD;&#xA;Drive 2, the [Seagate ST4000LM024][3] uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W on the +5V rail.  &#xD;&#xA;But, the [Asrock Z97E-ITXac motherboard][4] has no power consumption data, so you'd need to contact [Asrock support][5] to find what its maximum power draw would be, separate from the CPU, RAM, and other components.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My conclusion: Upgrading the power supply would be wise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z97E-ITXac/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47700" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="15eb4294-9681-42de-a768-d4ca6569e0d5" CreationDate="2020-04-22T18:00:45.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="65f215b2-07d6-404f-b871-d7b562f6e1d5" CreationDate="2020-04-22T18:11:53.780" UserId="24" Comment="English++, padding" Text="I am looking for a kvm switch that will support my Logitech unifying receiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my understanding, the only ones capable of that are kvm switches using semi or full DDM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue is that most of the kvm's I found are about 150$ or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is the cheapest KVM switch out there (with dvi or hdmi connections) I can get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found kvm switches for 20$-35$ on aliexpress - but those use USB emulations which is no good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Am I deceiving myself in believing I can find a kvm in that price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, the screen resolution isn't too much of a concern." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47704" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="65f215b2-07d6-404f-b871-d7b562f6e1d5" CreationDate="2020-04-22T18:11:53.780" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 15713 edit id of 1090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47706" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="8c632f4e-f304-439b-9ac8-70ca42c0ff48" CreationDate="2020-04-22T18:39:16.353" UserId="15713" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a kvm switch that will support my Logitech unifying receiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From my understanding, the only ones capable of that are kvm switches using semi or full DDM. The issue is that most of the kvm's I found are about 150$ or more.&#xD;&#xA;What is the cheapest KVM switch out there (with dvi or hdmi connections) I can get?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found kvm switches for 20$-35$ on aliexpress - but those use USB emulations which is no good. Am I deceiving myself in believing I can find a kvm in that price range?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, the screen resolution isn't too much of a concern.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--- edit ---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are other options that are not DDM that will support Logitech Unifying receiver- I am open to suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13358" RevisionGUID="afc85b99-f335-47ac-8908-2f44a2f3c15f" CreationDate="2020-04-22T20:25:38.623" UserId="15704" Text="I use the ergonomic Adesso iMouse E1 — five buttons and scroll wheel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.adesso.com/product/imouse-e1-vertical-ergonomic-illuminated-mouse/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine is right-handed, but the iMouse E7-TAA is for left hands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.adesso.com/product/imouse-e7-taa-left-handed-vertical-ergonomic-mouse/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13359" RevisionGUID="5a4c6e5f-44d3-4163-849b-9194d4f29010" CreationDate="2020-04-22T23:56:27.000" UserId="15704" Text="I use a right-handed, corded version of the Adesso iMouse (the E1).  The iMouse E90 is a cordless left-handed version.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.adesso.com/product/imouse-e90-wireless-left-handed-vertical-ergonomic-mouse/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has 5 buttons and a scroll-wheel.  MSRP: $50." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47713" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="a4ee11bf-bc4d-49a6-90a4-fbe1d301a79d" CreationDate="2020-04-23T03:06:00.637" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47718" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6793" RevisionGUID="b8ed0dd5-8424-46e8-8f91-72bdfb589d94" CreationDate="2020-04-23T09:06:45.717" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47719" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8192" RevisionGUID="5b13fe1d-481a-482e-b295-e4dbe1399484" CreationDate="2020-04-23T11:01:45.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47727" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="5fa32b7c-8cef-4080-8550-f6b2204226cf" CreationDate="2020-04-23T12:04:10.453" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="802b7a2b-8e8e-4497-9617-4dd1ac68951b" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:27:13.287" UserId="15699" Text="I am getting current on the screws and metal portions of my computer for some reason and it only happens when i am standing on the ground and using the tester or getting zapped by it on the softer side of my hand, i.e., upper skin portion. So, i tried checking all kind of ports. Try draining the PC of extra charge etc. Doesn't work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, i found out that the PC is not the problem but my Power port or the Power cable may be.&#xD;&#xA;So, Below is the spec and images of my power cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it is a `i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused` cable rated 13A, 250V on head of the cable and 10A, 250V on the output pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused[![\]\[1\]][1]][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOgY7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5A9P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, i checked it on every power ports/sockets i have. The power sockets i have in my home is rated 20 &amp; 10 A, 240V ( This cable only fits on that kind of port only ) and found that a small current is passing through the Earth port of the output pin of the power cable. But, tester only detects it when i am on the ground or touched to some walls etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am afraid of putting my PC on this cable. Please help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="802b7a2b-8e8e-4497-9617-4dd1ac68951b" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:27:13.287" UserId="15699" Text="Getting zapped by computer (not exactly but yes)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47731" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="802b7a2b-8e8e-4497-9617-4dd1ac68951b" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:27:13.287" UserId="15699" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47732" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13363" RevisionGUID="e74fbd27-c77b-4ff7-99d4-94dea324f0d3" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:54:17.853" UserId="9825" Text="A search of [37 screens of listings in the Logitech Knowledgebase][1] found no reference to a comprehensive list offered by Logitech nor any device other than a keyboard, mouse, or other pointing device which are compatible with the [Logitech Unifying Receiver][2].  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Devices which are compatible have this logo on them, [as per Logitech][3]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Logitech Unifying logo][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Louie H. at Logitech Community Support on 2020-04-23 said only Logitech devices can use the Unifying protocol. The Logitech Unifying Receiver is designed by Logitech only for Logitech Human Input Devices (HID), and uses a proprietary protocol. He did provide a list of devices:   &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Couch Mouse M515  &#xD;&#xA;Logitech Cube  &#xD;&#xA;Marathon Mouse M705  &#xD;&#xA;Mouse M525-C  &#xD;&#xA;Performance Mouse MX  &#xD;&#xA;Touch Mouse models M600, and T620  &#xD;&#xA;Logitech Wireless Wave Combo models  MK270, MK320, MK360,  MK520, and MK550  &#xD;&#xA;Illuminated Living-Room Keyboard K830  &#xD;&#xA;Notebook Kit MK605  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless All-in-One Keyboard TK820  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Desktops MK320, and MK710  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Illuminated Keyboard K800  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Keyboards K230, K250, K270, K340, K350, and K360  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Mouse models M217, M317, M325, M505, M510, M525, and M560  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Number Pad N305  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Performance Combo MX800  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Rechargeable Touchpad T650  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Solar Keyboard &amp; Marathon Mouse Combo MK750  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Solar Keyboard K750  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Touch Keyboard K400   &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Touchpad  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Trackball M570  &#xD;&#xA;Wireless Wave Plus Combo MK560  &#xD;&#xA;Zone Touch Mouse T400  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but no KVM .   A [Quora article][5] also listed the devices provided by Logitech, but no KVM or other non-Logitech device was listed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/search#q=Unifying&amp;s=kbs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://logitech.com/en-us/product/unifying-receiver-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articles/360023400913&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfRPi.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.quora.com/What-devices-can-I-pair-with-my-Logitech-unifying-receiver-other-than-a-mouse-and-keyboard#" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47734" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="5c149bfc-6bc5-4b96-8a90-288e72012c4f" CreationDate="2020-04-23T16:21:00.257" UserId="15699" Comment="some extra addition" Text="I am getting current on the screws and metal portions of my computer for some reason and it only happens when i am standing on the ground and using the tester or getting zapped by it on the softer side of my hand, i.e., upper skin portion. So, i tried checking all kind of ports. Try draining the PC of extra charge etc. Doesn't work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, i found out that the PC is not the problem but my Power port or the Power cable may be.&#xD;&#xA;So, Below is the spec and images of my power cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it is a `i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused` cable rated 13A, 250V on head of the cable and 10A, 250V on the output pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused[![\]\[1\]][1]][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOgY7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5A9P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, i checked it on every power ports/sockets i have. The power sockets i have in my home is rated 20 &amp; 10 A, 240V ( This cable only fits on that kind of port only ) and found that a small current is passing through the Earth port of the output pin of the power cable. But, tester only detects it when i am on the ground or touched to some walls etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am afraid of putting my PC on this cable. Please help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. : I live in India. So, any cable that suit the wiring would be nice to know. Also, this is a UK cable i got because of the cooler master platinum PSU i guess. They don't make Indian version of it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="c5d5c635-47d1-4d93-a14e-bfce76ea3dbf" CreationDate="2020-04-23T16:43:10.663" UserId="15699" Comment="some extra addition" Text="I am getting current on the screws and metal portions of my computer for some reason and it only happens when i am standing on the ground and using the tester or getting zapped by it on the softer side of my hand, i.e., upper skin portion. So, i tried checking all kind of ports. Try draining the PC of extra charge etc. Doesn't work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, i found out that the PC is not the problem but my Power port or the Power cable may be.&#xD;&#xA;So, Below is the spec and images of my power cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it is a `i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused` cable rated 13A, 250V on head of the cable and 10A, 250V on the output pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused[![\]\[1\]][1]][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOgY7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5A9P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, i checked it on every power ports/sockets i have. The power sockets i have in my home is rated 20 &amp; 10 A, 240V ( This cable only fits on that kind of port only ). They are fine like Live is having current, Earth and Neutral have no current but when i plug this PSU cable into the port i found that a small current is passing through the Earth port of the output pin of the power cable. But, tester only detects it when i am on the ground or touched to some walls etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am afraid of putting my PC on this cable. Please help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. : I live in India. So, any cable that suit the wiring would be nice to know. Also, this is a UK cable i got because of the cooler master platinum PSU i guess. They don't make Indian version of it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47736" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="bfe748fa-9310-452c-8707-32ee8cb4498f" CreationDate="2020-04-23T16:58:40.733" UserId="15699" Comment="added 850 characters in body" Text="I am getting current on the screws and metal portions of my computer for some reason and it only happens when i am standing on the ground and using the tester or getting zapped by it on the softer side of my hand, i.e., upper skin portion. So, i tried checking all kind of ports. Try draining the PC of extra charge etc. Doesn't work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, i found out that the PC is not the problem but my Power port or the Power cable may be.&#xD;&#xA;So, Below is the spec and images of my power cable. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it is a `i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused` cable rated 13A, 250V on head of the cable and 10A, 250V on the output pin.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![i sheng sp 62 bs1363/a 13amps fused[![\]\[1\]][1]][1]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOgY7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5A9P.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, i checked it on every power ports/sockets i have. The power sockets i have in my home is rated 20 &amp; 10 A, 240V ( This cable only fits on that kind of port only ). They are fine like Live is having current, Earth and Neutral have no current but when i plug this PSU cable into the port i found that a small current is passing through the Earth port of the output pin of the power cable. But, tester only detects it when i am on the ground or touched to some walls etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am afraid of putting my PC on this cable. Please help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. : I live in India. So, any cable that suit the wiring would be nice to know. Also, this is a UK cable i got because of the cooler master platinum PSU i guess. They don't make Indian version of it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me reinstate the problem in bullet points. It may be clearer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The power ports of my home is showing no sign of any current other than on the Live.&#xD;&#xA; 2. When i plug in the PSU cable to the power port, It's showing current on Earth of the PSU output head but only when i am standing on ground or touching anything grounded.&#xD;&#xA; 3. I have a inverter which supply power to my house in case of brown outs It is a 1450VA inverter quite enough to run my PC too. But, for test purposes i remove the inverter supply from the main power supply of home and attach the PSU cable to the output of inverter. Weirdly, PSU cable show no such behavior as mentioned in the 2nd point. &#xD;&#xA; 4. So, I guess there is something wrong with the mains but 1st point doesn't show any such sign.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am just going crazy because can't figure out which is the trouble." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47741" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12963" RevisionGUID="ff417700-bef9-4dc6-9246-9b2e0f964187" CreationDate="2020-04-23T20:59:56.823" UserId="10307" Comment="added 176 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a USB-based WiFi adapter which should be extremely compact, that is not much bigger than the USB-C connector it's based on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needn't be able to reach more than 2-3 meters with reasonable bandwidth, though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen fairly compact USB-A WiFi adapters, but so far none with USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NB: please consider that there have been memory cards with built-in WiFi (e.g. search `Wi-Fi SD card`), so the size of the respective chips surely shouldn't pose a problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47750" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13362" RevisionGUID="5f13c21c-d98a-41dc-a22e-8ef64b85e155" CreationDate="2020-04-24T01:26:49.977" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47751" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13369" RevisionGUID="06c8688a-bb92-45a9-b208-6bab92b55342" CreationDate="2020-04-24T08:36:19.807" UserId="15725" Text="I have [this SSD](https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/portable-drives/sandisk-extreme-pro-usb-3-1-ssd#SDSSDE80-1T00-A25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes I inadvertently unplug it, or the MacBook power is down. And then it is a completely random process to get it to show up again. Maybe requiring several reboots and prayer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this an inherent problem with USB SSDs on MacOS?  Or is it particular to this manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone had good experience with a particular USB SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPLgQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47752" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13369" RevisionGUID="06c8688a-bb92-45a9-b208-6bab92b55342" CreationDate="2020-04-24T08:36:19.807" UserId="15725" Text="Seeking SSD for MacBook that doesn't create problems when unplugged" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47753" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13369" RevisionGUID="06c8688a-bb92-45a9-b208-6bab92b55342" CreationDate="2020-04-24T08:36:19.807" UserId="15725" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47754" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13370" RevisionGUID="a65a9bf5-b1d7-4d45-8ac4-c6744121ed74" CreationDate="2020-04-24T09:39:54.433" UserId="24" Text="Such random reboots are caused very often by a power supply problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hard disks (incl. SSDs) require a lot of power, at least to the limitations of the USB: it is at most 2A, 5V = 10W. Disks can require 20W or more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to connect it through an USB hub with external power supply, but so that only your SSD uses it. If so it works, problem found (possibly solved).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side remark: The problem can be caused also by an *other* buggy USB device connected to an *other* USB port of your laptop. In most cases, USB ports get the power from a common power source, and a short circuit or other current waster, caused by most likely LQ power adapters inside your *other* USB devices, can harm also the power supply of your SSD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13371" RevisionGUID="1c81820c-9aaa-414e-9260-6d391b102435" CreationDate="2020-04-24T13:44:04.340" UserId="15726" Text="I'm working on a software that measures the facial skin temperature, a kind of 'fever detector';&#xD;&#xA;In order to test the software, I want to check if my detector correctly works with objects with temperatures around 37.5 - 39 C, but I cannot find a 'device' that can be used for such measurements. A kind of thermostat, but it should keep static temperature on its outer shell.&#xD;&#xA;I tried to use a cup with hot water, but its temperature is being decreasing too fast, I would like to have an object with static temperature.&#xD;&#xA;Any advices on which device or object can be used are highly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS Soldering iron and Curling Hair with adjustable temperatures are working in too high temperatures range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47756" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13371" RevisionGUID="1c81820c-9aaa-414e-9260-6d391b102435" CreationDate="2020-04-24T13:44:04.340" UserId="15726" Text="Temperature detection &gt; device with adjustable temperature" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47757" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13371" RevisionGUID="1c81820c-9aaa-414e-9260-6d391b102435" CreationDate="2020-04-24T13:44:04.340" UserId="15726" Text="&lt;thermal-imaging&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13372" RevisionGUID="adbb3764-8def-4d8d-ab6b-a0f6d9a8b9a5" CreationDate="2020-04-24T15:47:51.977" UserId="9825" Text="A larger warm mass will hold its temperature for a longer period of time, as will an insulated mass. Use a vacuum-insulated ('Thermos'TM) bottle filled with warm water for your calibration. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13373" RevisionGUID="155fbd17-a724-423b-93e9-730a83280898" CreationDate="2020-04-24T16:28:49.403" UserId="15728" Text="The problem is that my work laptop goes to sleep after 15 minutes. I have no control over these settings nor can I install any software on the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thought is something that rests on the touchpad and somehow moves around (actual xy movement, rocking, or movement contained within the perimeter of the device. A wind-up toy that moves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What can you suggest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13373" RevisionGUID="155fbd17-a724-423b-93e9-730a83280898" CreationDate="2020-04-24T16:28:49.403" UserId="15728" Text="Looking for device to keep laptop from sleeping" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13373" RevisionGUID="155fbd17-a724-423b-93e9-730a83280898" CreationDate="2020-04-24T16:28:49.403" UserId="15728" Text="&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13374" RevisionGUID="fb42e071-472b-4881-b981-a9d61dac1e9d" CreationDate="2020-04-24T16:52:52.067" UserId="9825" Text="https://www.vxb.com/Solar-Miniature-Solar-Toy-car-1-29-x-0-86-Inch-p/MINIATURE-SOLAR-POWER-CAR.htm is a tiny toy car which could move on a trackpad, or there are [dancing flowers][1], also light-powered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/183787501152" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47764" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13374" RevisionGUID="ed4fe24e-61e1-4e43-bf7c-97bd2f53f18a" CreationDate="2020-04-24T17:42:49.193" UserId="9825" Comment="added 258 characters in body" Text="https://www.vxb.com/Solar-Miniature-Solar-Toy-car-1-29-x-0-86-Inch-p/MINIATURE-SOLAR-POWER-CAR.htm is a tiny toy car which could move on a trackpad, or there are [dancing flowers][1], also light-powered. A bright light shined on them will provide enough power for them to operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also experiment with adding a string to a [Bobbing Bird][2] (no battery or external light source required) and having the string draw a marble around the trackpad. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more surface area for the moving object, there are larger touchpads available https://amazon.com/Extra-Large-Touchpad-ETP001ELTP-Wired/dp/B0027DYGYO for your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/183787501152&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Bird-DRINK-BIRD-1-The-Famous/dp/B000JSGLBK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47765" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13374" RevisionGUID="bcc60065-0f69-4df1-b115-a85895c83dc7" CreationDate="2020-04-24T17:47:54.713" UserId="9825" Comment="added 258 characters in body" Text="https://www.vxb.com/Solar-Miniature-Solar-Toy-car-1-29-x-0-86-Inch-p/MINIATURE-SOLAR-POWER-CAR.htm is a tiny toy car which could move on a trackpad, or there are [dancing flowers][1], also light-powered. A bright light shined on them will provide enough power for them to operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also experiment with adding a string to a [Bobbing Bird][2] (no battery or external light source required) and having the string draw a marble around the trackpad, or tape plastic straws around the border of the touchpad to server as bumpers to keep a small [wind-up toy][3] contained. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more surface area for the moving object, there are larger touchpads available https://amazon.com/Extra-Large-Touchpad-ETP001ELTP-Wired/dp/B0027DYGYO for your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/183787501152&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Bird-DRINK-BIRD-1-The-Famous/dp/B000JSGLBK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.target.com/s/small+wind+up+toys?Nao=0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47766" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13374" RevisionGUID="c0c8dcc2-440e-4752-a031-a5023fca3697" CreationDate="2020-04-24T17:51:12.400" UserId="9825" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="https://www.vxb.com/Solar-Miniature-Solar-Toy-car-1-29-x-0-86-Inch-p/MINIATURE-SOLAR-POWER-CAR.htm is a tiny toy car which could move on a trackpad, or there are [dancing flowers][1], also light-powered. A bright light shined on them will provide enough power for them to operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also experiment with adding a string to a [Bobbing Bird][2] (no battery or external light source required), drill a hole through a marble or plastic ball, and having the string pull that around the trackpad; or tape plastic straws around the border of the touchpad to server as bumpers to keep a small [wind-up toy][3] contained. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you need more surface area for the moving object, there are larger touchpads available https://amazon.com/Extra-Large-Touchpad-ETP001ELTP-Wired/dp/B0027DYGYO for your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/183787501152&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Bird-DRINK-BIRD-1-The-Famous/dp/B000JSGLBK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.target.com/s/small+wind+up+toys?Nao=0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13372" RevisionGUID="b738dd45-7e6d-4172-809f-037408caaf35" CreationDate="2020-04-24T23:25:05.973" UserId="9825" Comment="added 165 characters in body" Text="Small objects (like an 8 oz/237 ml ) cup of hot water will lose heat quickly, especially if uninsulated, so will exhibit a quick drop in temperature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A larger warm mass will hold its temperature for a longer period of time, as will an insulated mass. Therefore, use a vacuum-insulated ('Thermos'TM) bottle filled with warm water for your calibration. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47770" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13376" RevisionGUID="73ab2cd7-ac75-4f99-91fb-a1607d428b25" CreationDate="2020-04-24T23:59:24.007" UserId="9825" Text="A review of Epson's [European][1] and [US][2] documentation for that scanner showed no hardware manual, and no specification for the thickness, width, or length of any glass replacement for that plastic window. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Checking their [list of distributors][3] led me to https://compassmicro.com/media/wysiwyg/diagrams/DS-50000-exploded-diag.pdf which shows item 124 is the scanning window and is replaceable. If you contact Compass Micro Support at (360) 836-8122, Mon - Fri, 8AM - 4:30PM Pacific Time, they can assist you with obtaining a replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Until then, keep the scanning window clean to minimize the chance of a scratch. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.epson.eu/products/scanners/business-scanners/workforce-ds-50000/Support-Downloads&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://epson.com/Support/Scanners/WorkForce-Series/Epson-WorkForce-DS-50000/s/SPT_B11B204121#manuals&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://epson.com/Support/wa00399" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47800" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="fcea960f-8cac-48cf-a5fc-5d1f827a4051" CreationDate="2020-04-25T06:11:28.200" UserId="15729" Text="I was about to get a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am confused in these three:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Acer Predator Helios 300** - `Core i7-9750, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus Zenbook Duo**         - `Core i7-10510U, 16 GB RAM (DDR3), 1 TB SSD, 2 GB GeForce MX250`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus TUF Gaming A15**      - `AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm just a student but I like programming so I do use Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, PyCharm and some other IDEs which require less resources than how much Android Studio does.&#xD;&#xA;Currently, my desktop has an `i3-4130` along with `4 GB RAM` and no dedicated graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;Because sometimes I need to create my own assets for my application, so I do use PhotoShop.&#xD;&#xA;I do make some videos for YouTube and I wish to use Adobe After Effects which I have actually used once on my desktop and as you will expect it ofcourse took my an hour to render a short video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of the above laptop have some attributes that I like but are confusing me.&#xD;&#xA;My first preference is the Predator Helios 300 for sure, except it's battery but this is acceptable because it's just powerful. &#xD;&#xA;Actual confusion arises due to Asus A15 which is launched recently (yet to be launched in India) because the processor as per I've heard is faster than the `i7`. But again, some people said me that I should go for Intel because it's reliable. I don't know if AMD lasts less than Intel. Should be a Myth just like when people compare Snapdragon and Mediatek. *[Asus TUF Gaming F15 has Intel Intel® Core™ i7 10750H but looks like this one will take a long time to arrive especially in India]*&#xD;&#xA;Also A15 has a plastic build with 3 heat sinks while Predator is all metal with 4 heat sinks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the last one,  I definitely wanted the Zenbook Duo for it's second screen which indeed is ver useful. But it has `DDR3 RAM`, weaker Graphics and that too only 2GB. It does have 10th Generation i7 but again it's labelled `U` means it low powered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have mentioned earlier I need to use After Effects so I can drop idea of getting the Zenbook Duo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*Zenbook PRO Duo is way too much expensive than these 3 so that's not an option for me*]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TUF Gaming A15 is available with 90Wh battery which could be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much difference else. But plastic body, can it be less rigid than Predator? That's why I'm confused else Predator is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aggressive Gaming look of laptop won't bother, Predator looks nothing less than a beast. I would be mostly home and wrapped around that charger, but even if I'm out Predator gives atleast 2-3 hours of battery life [on light tasks, anyways won't be gaming outside ofcourse] so shouldn't be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I go for? All these laptops are in price range of around `1300-1500 USD [1 - 1.20 lakh INR]`." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47801" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="fcea960f-8cac-48cf-a5fc-5d1f827a4051" CreationDate="2020-04-25T06:11:28.200" UserId="15729" Text="Which one of the mentioned laptops should be better as per my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47802" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="fcea960f-8cac-48cf-a5fc-5d1f827a4051" CreationDate="2020-04-25T06:11:28.200" UserId="15729" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47803" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="ce1ebc55-f5bc-4fe8-8a8d-ce3f89a30116" CreationDate="2020-04-25T06:16:57.063" UserId="15729" Comment="added 124 characters in body; edited tags" Text="I was about to get a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am confused in these three:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Acer Predator Helios 300** - `Core i7-9750, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus Zenbook Duo**         - `Core i7-10510U, 16 GB RAM (DDR3), 1 TB SSD, 2 GB GeForce MX250`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus TUF Gaming A15**      - `AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm just a student but I like programming so I do use Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, PyCharm and some other IDEs which require less resources than how much Android Studio does.&#xD;&#xA;Currently, my desktop has an `i3-4130` along with `4 GB RAM` and no dedicated graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;Because sometimes I need to create my own assets for my application, so I do use PhotoShop.&#xD;&#xA;I do make some videos for YouTube and I wish to use Adobe After Effects which I have actually used once on my desktop and as you will expect it ofcourse took my an hour to render a short video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of the above laptop have some attributes that I like but are confusing me.&#xD;&#xA;My first preference is the Predator Helios 300 for sure, except it's battery but this is acceptable because it's just powerful. &#xD;&#xA;Actual confusion arises due to Asus A15 which is launched recently (yet to be launched in India) because the processor as per I've heard is faster than the `i7`. But again, some people said me that I should go for Intel because it's reliable. I don't know if AMD lasts less than Intel. Should be a Myth just like when people compare Snapdragon and Mediatek. *[Asus TUF Gaming F15 has Intel Intel® Core™ i7 10750H but looks like this one will take a long time to arrive especially in India]*&#xD;&#xA;Also A15 has a plastic build with 3 heat sinks while Predator is all metal with 4 heat sinks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the last one,  I definitely wanted the Zenbook Duo for it's second screen which indeed is ver useful. But it has `DDR3 RAM`, weaker Graphics and that too only 2GB. It does have 10th Generation i7 but again it's labelled `U` means it low powered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have mentioned earlier I need to use After Effects so I can drop idea of getting the Zenbook Duo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*Zenbook PRO Duo is way too much expensive than these 3 so that's not an option for me*]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TUF Gaming A15 is available with 90Wh battery which could be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much difference else. But plastic body, can it be less rigid than Predator? That's why I'm confused else Predator is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aggressive Gaming look of laptop won't bother, Predator looks nothing less than a beast. I would be mostly home and wrapped around that charger, but even if I'm out Predator gives atleast 2-3 hours of battery life [on light tasks, anyways won't be gaming outside ofcourse] so shouldn't be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I go for? All these laptops are in price range of around `1300-1500 USD [1 - 1.20 lakh INR]`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I hope it won't affect the performance if the laptop was released 1 year. The Predator, was launched in April 2019." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47804" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="ce1ebc55-f5bc-4fe8-8a8d-ce3f89a30116" CreationDate="2020-04-25T06:16:57.063" UserId="15729" Comment="added 124 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47805" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2816" RevisionGUID="c0237804-273f-44a3-9ce8-b05a946ceb02" CreationDate="2020-04-25T11:38:12.170" UserId="8" Comment="added 328 characters in body" Text="## Looking for technical support or advice?&#xA;&#xA;This site doesn't do technical support. Questions here that ask for technical support may be closed quickly, and are unlikely to receive answers. Instead of asking here, try these places:&#xA;&#xA;- [Super User](http://superuser.com)&#xA;- [Reddit's /r/techsupport](https://reddit.com/r/techsupport)&#xA;- [PC Advisor forums](http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/forum/helproom-1/)&#xA;- Official support forums for [Apple](https://discussions.apple.com/welcome) and [Microsoft](https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb)&#xA;&#xA;If you're building a custom PC and you need some help with specifying it, we can help for recommendations of _single, specific components_ - if you're looking for more general help or advice, Reddit's [/r/pcmasterrace](https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace) or [/r/buildapc](https://reddit.com/r/buildapc) are better places to go.&#xA;&#xA;## This site is here to help with [these types of questions](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47807" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13369" RevisionGUID="52d71345-75a0-4d31-835e-fc230aebf3bd" CreationDate="2020-04-25T13:41:43.733" UserId="15725" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="I have [this SSD](https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/portable-drives/sandisk-extreme-pro-usb-3-1-ssd#SDSSDE80-1T00-A25)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes I inadvertently unplug it, or the MacBook runs out of battery when I'm not watching and powers down. And then it is a completely random process to get it to show up again. Maybe requiring several reboots and prayer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this an inherent problem with USB SSDs on MacOS?  Or is it particular to this manufacturer?&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone had good experience with a particular USB SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPLgQ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47808" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="9c0bc465-5fe4-429e-9806-525832ea333e" CreationDate="2020-04-25T14:05:00.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47809" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13373" RevisionGUID="ad18956b-18fa-43fc-a63b-d04bc1461fdb" CreationDate="2020-04-25T14:42:53.970" UserId="15728" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="The problem is that my work laptop goes to sleep after 15 minutes. I have no control over these settings, I icannot install any software on the computer, nor can I plug in unauthorized USB devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thought is something that rests on the touchpad and somehow moves around (actual xy movement, rocking, or movement contained within the perimeter of the device. A wind-up toy that moves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What can you suggest?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47810" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13373" RevisionGUID="5ed35321-36f6-4234-9db2-c8c8f2e3adf4" CreationDate="2020-04-25T15:48:06.613" UserId="15728" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="The problem is that my work laptop goes to sleep after 15 minutes. I have no control over these settings, I icannot install any software on the computer, nor can I plug in unauthorized USB devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My thought is something that rests on the touchpad and somehow moves around (actual xy movement, rocking, or movement contained within the perimeter of the device. A wind-up toy that moves.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What can you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit:&#xD;&#xA;Having done more research, the best solution might be to modified an interactive cat toy that runs on AA batteries.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47811" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="b739ec48-69e5-4f27-8738-d93bcb9b8f91" CreationDate="2020-04-25T17:07:00.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47814" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="f6debbbc-0e61-4197-a277-b390bf3fa1a9" CreationDate="2020-04-26T03:07:15.830" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47815" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="f3dad5ef-9d74-4b87-8eba-808a0b78c331" CreationDate="2020-04-26T05:01:05.107" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47817" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="9526a2c7-8b63-42b1-956e-89fe030e724e" CreationDate="2020-04-26T13:02:00.247" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13379" RevisionGUID="63b72236-36d1-452b-8550-584e5f066c07" CreationDate="2020-04-26T20:09:55.613" UserId="24" Text="Most 4GB laptops can be easily upgraded to 8GB, which might be enough for you if you prefer cheap solutions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming Laptop&quot;, &quot;office laptop&quot; and the others are mostly bullshit-words to help laymans to choose the product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD is the same in benchmarks like the intel, but it is cheaper. They need to compensate their weaker name with price.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your case I would first upgrade the RAM to 8GB or more, if it does not work on some reason, then I would buy the AMD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47823" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12913" RevisionGUID="7d9baab6-23ac-4464-b95d-cca8e0dfbee6" CreationDate="2020-04-26T22:03:40.307" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47824" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="ddd9d63b-c157-429b-b01c-c78a096ecc56" CreationDate="2020-04-26T23:03:10.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47833" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13381" RevisionGUID="08c9455d-c205-47bd-a0e1-e7c709518f00" CreationDate="2020-04-27T11:04:13.173" UserId="13812" Text="I am essentially looking for a Yamaha PSR EW300, but stereo, and with a weird feature that may not exist. To be less vague, I want a keyboard that&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Has 6 or more octaves&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can split anywhere along the keyboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Most important*: once split, its left keys play out of one channel and right keys out the other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like a solution more elegant than my current one, which is to have two keyboards. To be able to use some music app on my phone with the keyboard would be a bonus, as well as having a mod wheel. I would also be okay to find out that such a keyboard does not exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47834" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13381" RevisionGUID="08c9455d-c205-47bd-a0e1-e7c709518f00" CreationDate="2020-04-27T11:04:13.173" UserId="13812" Text="Electronic (musical) keyboard, 6+ octaves, stereo output whose split divides across outputs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47835" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13381" RevisionGUID="08c9455d-c205-47bd-a0e1-e7c709518f00" CreationDate="2020-04-27T11:04:13.173" UserId="13812" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47842" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="efa98c76-4a38-4f85-8b16-590d0109eb4d" CreationDate="2020-04-27T13:04:05.470" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13383" RevisionGUID="a2b69829-7674-4830-8137-ac7baa8b8d2f" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:38:10.560" UserId="9825" Text="Since the [Acer Zenbook Duo][1] only has DDR3 RAM, and the [inferior MX250 GPU][2], I'd rule that out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your [PH315-52-76WX][3] model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the TUF has WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 6. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13383" RevisionGUID="d3e4f26d-39b4-4aa8-b7d2-9cfa91bc0ccc" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:42:26.287" UserId="9825" Comment="added 218 characters in body" Text="Since the [Acer Zenbook Duo][1] only has DDR3 RAM, and the [inferior MX250 GPU][2], I'd rule that out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your [PH315-52-76WX][3] model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the TUF has WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 6. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plastic chassis of the TUF may be less of a drawback since it has been [tested to meet MIL-STD-810H standards][4], and its 144Hz display at 1920x1080 is attractive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/asus-tuf-gaming-a15-hands-on-review-amd-meets-nvidia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47848" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13383" RevisionGUID="e4db3765-23a9-40eb-b337-7ae524ae586e" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:49:02.233" UserId="9825" Comment="added 375 characters in body" Text="Since the [Acer Zenbook Duo][1] only has DDR3 RAM, and the [inferior MX250 GPU][2], I'd rule that out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your [PH315-52-76WX][3] model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the [TUF Gaming A15 with 256 GB SSD, Ryzen 7, and 1660Ti GPU][4] has WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 6. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plastic chassis of the TUF may be less of a drawback since it has been [tested to meet MIL-STD-810H standards][5], and its 90 Watt-Hour (8+ hrs of web browsing) battery plus the 144Hz display at 1920x1080 is attractive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Battery-TUF506IU-ES74/dp/B0865RZR9S&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/asus-tuf-gaming-a15-hands-on-review-amd-meets-nvidia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47849" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13383" RevisionGUID="1874681f-a958-4804-9107-8039d39dcda4" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:55:29.603" UserId="9825" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="Since the [Acer Zenbook Duo][1] only has DDR3 RAM, and the [inferior MX250 GPU][2], I'd rule that out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your [PH315-52-76WX][3] model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the [TUF Gaming A15 with 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD, Ryzen 7, and 1660Ti GPU][4] has a faster internal drive and WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 5. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plastic chassis of the TUF may be less of a drawback since it has been [tested to meet MIL-STD-810H standards][5], and its 90 Watt-Hour (8+ hrs of web browsing) battery plus the 144Hz display at 1920x1080 is attractive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Battery-TUF506IU-ES74/dp/B0865RZR9S&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/asus-tuf-gaming-a15-hands-on-review-amd-meets-nvidia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47850" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13383" RevisionGUID="d56eb05e-18cf-4fee-8d6b-e7cf07c3e59e" CreationDate="2020-04-27T16:04:48.910" UserId="9825" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text="Since the [Acer Zenbook Duo][1] only has DDR3 RAM, and the [inferior MX250 GPU][2], I'd rule that out. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your [PH315-52-76WX][3] model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the [Model B07S8D3C8J  TUF Gaming A15 with 256 GB M.2 NVMe SSD, Ryzen 7, and 1660Ti GPU][4] has a faster internal drive and WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 5. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The plastic chassis of the TUF may be less of a drawback since it has been [tested to meet MIL-STD-810H standards][5], and its 90 Watt-Hour (8+ hrs of web browsing) battery plus the 144Hz display at 1920x1080 is attractive.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gaming-TUF505DU-KB71-GTX1660Ti-Windows-Notebook/dp/B07S8D3C8J&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/asus-tuf-gaming-a15-hands-on-review-amd-meets-nvidia" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47852" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="b6c36720-2f4d-46c8-9e94-8e70cd0f871b" CreationDate="2020-04-27T16:20:58.750" UserId="15729" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="I was about to get a laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am confused in these three:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Acer Predator Helios 300** - `Core i7-9750, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus Zenbook Duo**         - `Core i7-10510U, 16 GB RAM (DDR3), 1 TB SSD, 2 GB GeForce MX250`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus TUF Gaming A15**      - `AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*[There's some uncertainity in models of A15]*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm just a student but I like programming so I do use Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, PyCharm and some other IDEs which require less resources than how much Android Studio does.&#xD;&#xA;Currently, my desktop has an `i3-4130` along with `4 GB RAM` and no dedicated graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;Because sometimes I need to create my own assets for my application, so I do use PhotoShop.&#xD;&#xA;I do make some videos for YouTube and I wish to use Adobe After Effects which I have actually used once on my desktop and as you will expect it ofcourse took my an hour to render a short video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of the above laptop have some attributes that I like but are confusing me.&#xD;&#xA;My first preference is the Predator Helios 300 for sure, except it's battery but this is acceptable because it's just powerful. &#xD;&#xA;Actual confusion arises due to Asus A15 which is launched recently (yet to be launched in India) because the processor as per I've heard is faster than the `i7`. But again, some people said me that I should go for Intel because it's reliable. I don't know if AMD lasts less than Intel. Should be a Myth just like when people compare Snapdragon and Mediatek. *[Asus TUF Gaming F15 has Intel Intel® Core™ i7 10750H but looks like this one will take a long time to arrive especially in India]*&#xD;&#xA;Also A15 has a plastic build with 3 heat sinks while Predator is all metal with 4 heat sinks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the last one,  I definitely wanted the Zenbook Duo for it's second screen which indeed is ver useful. But it has `DDR3 RAM`, weaker Graphics and that too only 2GB. It does have 10th Generation i7 but again it's labelled `U` means it low powered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have mentioned earlier I need to use After Effects so I can drop idea of getting the Zenbook Duo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*Zenbook PRO Duo is way too much expensive than these 3 so that's not an option for me*]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TUF Gaming A15 is available with 90Wh battery which could be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much difference else. But plastic body, can it be less rigid than Predator? That's why I'm confused else Predator is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aggressive Gaming look of laptop won't bother, Predator looks nothing less than a beast. I would be mostly home and wrapped around that charger, but even if I'm out Predator gives atleast 2-3 hours of battery life [on light tasks, anyways won't be gaming outside ofcourse] so shouldn't be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I go for? All these laptops are in price range of around `1300-1500 USD [1 - 1.20 lakh INR]`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I hope it won't affect the performance if the laptop was released 1 year. The Predator, was launched in April 2019." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47856" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13374" RevisionGUID="61149a86-cac2-4a76-b9a7-275cfc2fe992" CreationDate="2020-04-27T17:28:09.760" UserId="9825" Comment="added 53 characters in body" Text="https://www.vxb.com/Solar-Miniature-Solar-Toy-car-1-29-x-0-86-Inch-p/MINIATURE-SOLAR-POWER-CAR.htm is a tiny toy car which could move on a trackpad, or there are [dancing flowers][1], also light-powered. A bright light shined on them will provide enough power for them to operate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Put a pair of wheels on a pin through a plastic straw on one end, and attach that straw to a [Bobbing Bird][2] (no battery or external light source required) on the other end. As the bird bobs, it pushes the straw which moves the wheels back and forth across the laptop's mushpad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could also experiment with adding a string to the Bobbing Bird , drill a hole through a marble or plastic ball, and having the string pull that around the trackpad; or tape plastic straws around the border of the touchpad to server as bumpers to keep a small [wind-up toy][3] contained.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/i/183787501152&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Bird-DRINK-BIRD-1-The-Famous/dp/B000JSGLBK&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.target.com/s/small+wind+up+toys?Nao=0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47857" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13386" RevisionGUID="cef4ae57-b225-4db4-a46f-6a52ff594f5f" CreationDate="2020-04-27T20:16:13.813" UserId="9825" Text="The [Yamaha MOXF6][1] offers this feature in a seven-plus octave range. To configure it to [split between two ranges][2]:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Press [MASTER] to enter the Master Keyboard mode.  &#xD;&#xA;You can setup a program to transmit Out to your DAW  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Press [JOB]  &#xD;&#xA;Press [F1] INIT  &#xD;&#xA;We will initialize a Master location - do not worry about the factory programs, they are simply example &quot;placeholders&quot;. You can overwrite these without fear of losing anything important.  &#xD;&#xA;With the &quot;All&quot; option marked, press [ENTER] to execute.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An &quot;Initialized Master&quot; is created.  &#xD;&#xA;On this main screen, press [F2] MEMORY  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can link this Master with an internal MOXF program. (You don't mention if you want to use an internal sound so this will not matter, just want to point out that if you wanted to layer the external piano with an internal MOXF sound, you could by associating this Master program with a VOICE, a PERFORMANCE or a SONG/PATTERN Mixing setup!)  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [F3] SWITCH  &#xD;&#xA;Set the ZONE SWITCH = ON  &#xD;&#xA;And set the ZONE/KNOB = ON  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [EDIT]  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can NAME the Master setup something appropriate by changing the default Name &quot;Initialized Master&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;Press the Track [1] button to view the four possible ZONES. You will be using just the first two slots.  &#xD;&#xA;[F1] TRANS (transmit) will be selected.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 1 as follows:  &#xD;&#xA;Transmit Channel = 1  &#xD;&#xA;Internal Switch = Off  &#xD;&#xA;External Switch = On  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [2]  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 2 as follows:  &#xD;&#xA;Transmit Channel = 2  &#xD;&#xA;Internal Switch = Off  &#xD;&#xA;External Switch = On  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Move to [F2] NOTE  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can set your NOTE LIMITS for each ZONE, Low and High  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 1 C-2 through B2  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 2 C3 through G8  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/music_production/synthesizers/moxf/index.html#product-tabs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.yamahasynth.com/ask-a-question/split-keyboard-to-transmit-over-2-midi-channels-at-once" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47867" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="7acb71f3-7f84-4196-86cc-30e33bf16214" CreationDate="2020-04-28T13:10:39.790" UserId="2086" Text="Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA;Full HD&#xD;&#xA;Big screen preferable&#xD;&#xA;i5-i7&#xD;&#xA;SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically like surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any website where I can compare laptop specs will be good too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47868" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="7acb71f3-7f84-4196-86cc-30e33bf16214" CreationDate="2020-04-28T13:10:39.790" UserId="2086" Text="Need Laptop/Tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47869" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="7acb71f3-7f84-4196-86cc-30e33bf16214" CreationDate="2020-04-28T13:10:39.790" UserId="2086" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47876" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="cf241f52-3e46-4142-8ebc-be1279a2a842" CreationDate="2020-04-28T14:49:52.600" UserId="8" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47877" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="ba7e6b80-2160-4c25-9790-777ab0e49fc7" CreationDate="2020-04-28T14:49:52.717" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13393" RevisionGUID="2d3626cc-b59b-4b1b-8334-33bf5a846e92" CreationDate="2020-04-28T18:07:04.623" UserId="15743" Text="What computer (I'm open to laptop or desktop) would be good for a realatively newbie coder who'll be entering a UX/UI bootcamp soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little background: I'm a lifelong PC/windows users (I'm coming from the business world), and while I've purchased and tried a few Apple/Mac products in my life, they've never quite gelled with me. I tend to dislike the fact that they're SO proprietary, i.e., I resent spending money on special chargers and cables, and I dislike the garbage bin (sorry, I'm nitpicking). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, should I view this opportunity as my foray into the Mac world, or should I stick with PC-based tech since that's what I'm most familiar and comfortable with? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for sharing your tips and thoughts, particularly if you've been in a similar position." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13393" RevisionGUID="2d3626cc-b59b-4b1b-8334-33bf5a846e92" CreationDate="2020-04-28T18:07:04.623" UserId="15743" Text="Recommendations for UX/UI Bootcamper / newbie coder" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13393" RevisionGUID="2d3626cc-b59b-4b1b-8334-33bf5a846e92" CreationDate="2020-04-28T18:07:04.623" UserId="15743" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47890" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="46c17600-7adf-44a4-8941-57c86ce14402" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:01:42.677" UserId="10648" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this by default!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a wire, you have a fixed number of copper pairs and that leads to a practical bandwidth limit for a single ethernet cable. So it makes sense that adding more wires would increase bandwidth!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to the copper pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for decades already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an extension that sort of solves that problem too, and many high end routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a new Wireless AC router and WiFi adapter with at least 3 antennas on each device. WiFi AC with MIMO or MU-MIMO can achieve about 433 Mbps per antenna, up to a current useful limit of 4 antennas (3.39 Gbps)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47891" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="dc728f2f-b7cf-4864-8dfc-35ae041a163c" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:18:27.130" UserId="10648" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this by default!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With a wire, you have a fixed number of copper pairs and that leads to a practical bandwidth limit for a single ethernet cable. So it makes sense that adding more wires would increase bandwidth!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to the copper pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for a decade already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an extension that sort of solves that problem too, and many high end routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a new Wireless AC router and WiFi adapter with at least 3 antennas on each device. WiFi AC with MIMO or MU-MIMO can achieve about 433 Mbps per antenna over 5Ghz, up to a current useful limit of 4 antennas (3.39 Gbps)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47892" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="57391161-0a50-4cbb-bb96-1198b289b723" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:23:56.673" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With an ethernet cable, you have a bundle of copper wires streaming 1's and 0's. Each pair of wires is a stream, and ethernet cables are built with a fixed number of pairs, leading to a maximum potential bandwidth. If you want more bandwidth with wired, you just add more wires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to those wire pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for a decade already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an extension that sort of solves that problem too, and many high end routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a new Wireless AC router and WiFi adapter with at least 3 antennas on each device. WiFi AC with MIMO or MU-MIMO can achieve about 433 Mbps per antenna over 5Ghz, up to a current useful limit of 4 antennas (3.39 Gbps)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47893" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="1a99d96d-bad6-4c14-9d94-d1dd97f53eef" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:29:12.517" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With an ethernet cable, you have a bundle of copper wires streaming 1's and 0's. Each pair of wires is a stream, and ethernet cables are built with a fixed number of pairs. If you want more streams (bandwidth) with wired, you just add more wires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to those wire pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for a decade already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an improvement on MIMO that sort of solves that problem too. Many high end AC routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would suggest a new Wireless AC router and WiFi adapter (also AC) with at least 3 antennas on each device. WiFi AC with MIMO or MU-MIMO can achieve about 433 Mbps per antenna over 5Ghz, up to a current useful limit of 4 antennas (3.39 Gbps)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47894" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="c725e0bd-4229-445b-9d8c-4b910ebd50f5" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:35:23.960" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With an ethernet cable, you have a bundle of copper wires streaming 1's and 0's. Each pair of wires is a stream, and ethernet cables are built with a fixed number of pairs. If you want more streams (bandwidth) with wired, you just add more wires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to those wire pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for a decade already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an improvement on MIMO that sort of solves that problem too. Many high end AC routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your router already has WiFi AC with MU-MIMO support for 2 antennas, so its max speed is 867 Mbps to any wireless device with 2 antennas and MIMO support. I would suggest a WiFi adapter (also AC) with at least 2 antennas and MIMO support to take full advantage of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ASUS PCE-AC56](https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/PCEAC56/) would be the most appropriate PCIe adapter to pair with your router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to upgrade your WiFi even further, then buying a new router with MU-MIMO that uses 4 antennas can achieve 3.39 Gbps to a WiFi card with 4 antennas &amp; MIMO support." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47895" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13394" RevisionGUID="bc6af3aa-0bb9-4818-a1ad-ce0cd3bc70db" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:40:40.943" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 11 characters in body" Text="&gt; I want to connect the the same router more than one time, in the same vein as a duel network interface card... except using wireless. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Wireless routers already do this!**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With an ethernet cable, you have a bundle of copper wires streaming 1's and 0's. Each pair of wires is a stream, and ethernet cables are built with a fixed number of pairs. If you want more streams (bandwidth) with wired, you just add more wires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With wireless, antennas are analogous to those wire pairs. Adding more antennas allows more simultaneous streams of data coming into the same device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Take a minute and read up on [MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO).  &#xD;&#xA;This technology has been built-in to WiFi and all sorts of wireless broadcasting equipment for a decade already. This is *how* WiFi can vary in speed so much, as multiple antennas are not always free to serve a single device on the network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Multi-User MIMO](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-user_MIMO) is an improvement on MIMO that sort of solves that problem too. Many high end AC routers provide this feature and come with a large number of antennas to support it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Your router already has WiFi AC with MU-MIMO support for 2 antennas, so its max speed is 867 Mbps to any wireless device with 2 antennas and MIMO support. I would suggest a WiFi adapter (also AC) with at least 2 antennas and MIMO support to take full advantage of that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [ASUS PCE-AC56](https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/PCEAC56/) would be the most appropriate PCIe adapter to pair with your router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to upgrade your WiFi even further, then buying a new router with MU-MIMO that uses 4 antennas can achieve 3.39 Gbps to a WiFi card with 4 antennas &amp; MIMO support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** I just realized this was an old question that was bumped by the community bot. Even if you've run that cable already, I still think this answer may be helpful to anyone finding this question from search engines." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47897" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8436" RevisionGUID="eddeb6d3-7e2b-4b9e-b3ba-ee77f5032e6c" CreationDate="2020-04-29T00:05:20.597" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47898" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11723" RevisionGUID="5728ae64-047d-4b3a-82e9-bc4abf8d008c" CreationDate="2020-04-29T09:01:05.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47899" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12971" RevisionGUID="bce90b3f-8b4b-4c39-9164-6631e4f1a2c4" CreationDate="2020-04-29T12:55:44.267" UserId="1410" Comment="added 104 characters in body" Text="Use when requesting inexpensive hardware, but *ONLY* use when you define &quot;cheap&quot;. Please state a budget." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47900" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12971" RevisionGUID="bce90b3f-8b4b-4c39-9164-6631e4f1a2c4" CreationDate="2020-04-29T12:55:44.267" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 1021" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47901" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="e7befe16-88e1-494c-b5b5-b7ec5d2434d3" CreationDate="2020-04-29T13:30:17.297" UserId="2086" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA;Full HD&#xD;&#xA;Big screen preferable&#xD;&#xA;i5-i7&#xD;&#xA;SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid&#xD;&#xA;Budget is $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically like the surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any website where I can compare laptop specs will be good too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47902" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="3e770206-458f-43d5-8aab-f7c21805d85e" CreationDate="2020-04-29T13:41:46.053" UserId="2086" Comment="added 24 characters in body" Text=" 1. Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. Full HD&#xD;&#xA; 3. Big screen preferable&#xD;&#xA; 4. i5-i7&#xD;&#xA; 5. SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid&#xD;&#xA; 6. Budget is $500&#xD;&#xA; 7. HD 1 TB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically like the surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any website where I can compare laptop specs will be good too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47903" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="555b3c92-0e84-4767-8a71-edc26cd07a8d" CreationDate="2020-04-29T13:58:23.890" UserId="2086" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text=" 1. Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. Full HD&#xD;&#xA; 3. Big screen preferable&#xD;&#xA; 4. i5-i7&#xD;&#xA; 5. SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid&#xD;&#xA; 6. Budget is $500&#xD;&#xA; 8. Surface pro &quot;like&quot; but something made not by microsoft. Tablet laptop hybrid kind of thing.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Easy to fix when broken.&#xD;&#xA; 10. No need for video card or minimal one. Not for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically like the surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any website where I can compare laptop specs will be good too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47904" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="555b3c92-0e84-4767-8a71-edc26cd07a8d" CreationDate="2020-04-29T13:58:23.890" UserId="2086" Comment="added 127 characters in body" Text="Need Laptop/Tablet hybrid (2 in 1)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13395" RevisionGUID="2ec8c94f-4b75-4e5a-839f-3ae47ec90997" CreationDate="2020-04-29T16:41:19.030" UserId="9825" Text="Lenovo'S [ThinkPad P73][1] (model part number [20QR000KUS][2]) is an excellent machine, with a 17.3&quot; screen, Core i9-9880H CPU, 32 GB of RAM, and a 512 GB SSD. It's fast and expandable, the screen's large, and it's very easy to service when you need to expand it. Lenovo's documentation is first rate, and IBM Global Service will stand behind you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P73/p/20QRS00100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_P73?M=20QR000KUS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47907" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13396" RevisionGUID="2f0940fe-5690-4f87-a8f6-a49ce77fc95e" CreationDate="2020-04-29T17:19:55.580" UserId="9825" Text="Take all the different adapters, switches, and mixers you have, and mount them on a platform. Have a local sheet metal shop make a unifying enclosure, probably power-coated, so all the cables are concealed, and every switch, knob. and button is on the same plane and level. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47909" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="d3bccdca-8834-4327-be09-5e2d22daf8af" CreationDate="2020-04-29T18:49:19.717" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 66 characters in body; edited title" Text=" 1. Touch Screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. Full HD&#xD;&#xA; 3. Big screen preferable&#xD;&#xA; 4. i5-i7&#xD;&#xA; 5. SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid&#xD;&#xA; 6. Budget is $500&#xD;&#xA; 8. Surface pro &quot;like&quot; but something made not by microsoft. Tablet laptop hybrid kind of thing.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Easy to fix when broken.&#xD;&#xA; 10. No need for video card or minimal one. Not for gaming&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically like the surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47910" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="d3bccdca-8834-4327-be09-5e2d22daf8af" CreationDate="2020-04-29T18:49:19.717" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 66 characters in body; edited title" Text="Repairable touchscreen laptop/hybrid under $500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47911" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="b56e008a-a30f-463e-b6c7-f0a1ed6a4361" CreationDate="2020-04-29T18:49:22.367" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47912" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="13388" RevisionGUID="ddfd34b5-fc8a-4c5c-a4fb-3f5548071e03" CreationDate="2020-04-29T18:49:27.903" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="47913" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13397" RevisionGUID="b1f5006f-5b0c-45fa-92e0-0433cc982cd2" CreationDate="2020-04-29T21:14:40.140" UserId="9825" Text="Dell's [Inspiron 2-in-1][1] computers are the only major competition to the Microsoft Surface devices, but none of those i5 or i7 machines will fit in your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/koa/search?q=inspiron%202-in-1#q=inspiron%202-in-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47914" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13397" RevisionGUID="9bcbb444-310e-4c9e-a336-0b6c7d3c2936" CreationDate="2020-04-29T21:21:32.590" UserId="9825" Comment="added 177 characters in body" Text="Dell's [Inspiron 2-in-1][1], Lenovo's [ThinkPad S1 Yoga][2], and some HP Touchscreen PCs are the only major competition to the Microsoft Surface devices, but none of their i5 or i7 machines will fit in your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/koa/search?q=inspiron%202-in-1#q=inspiron%202-in-1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Lenovo%20Thinkpad%20S1%20Yoga%20Touchscreen%20Laptop%2C%20Intel%20Core%20i5&amp;ref=nb_sb_noss" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13398" RevisionGUID="61a4c7f0-912d-4010-92cf-fe9c62e67ea6" CreationDate="2020-04-29T21:52:16.233" UserId="1974" Text="I need to replace the remote control from my Samsung UN50KU6300 TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main priority is obtaining a remote that works like the original did, in that, the remote would work without line of sight with the TV. For example, the remote could be underneath a blanket and it would still control the TV without difficultly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Base on this, what technology does the original remote use (so I can specify that in my searches for a replacement)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm discovering remotes that claim compatibility, but I'm worried that they won't work the same as the original in terms of the priorities I've discussed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzsXG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47916" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13398" RevisionGUID="61a4c7f0-912d-4010-92cf-fe9c62e67ea6" CreationDate="2020-04-29T21:52:16.233" UserId="1974" Text="NON IR Remote Control Replacement for a Samsung UN50KU6300 TV" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47917" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13398" RevisionGUID="61a4c7f0-912d-4010-92cf-fe9c62e67ea6" CreationDate="2020-04-29T21:52:16.233" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;television&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13398" RevisionGUID="7d571a02-89d1-42b3-a1dd-874ca917ab01" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:28:55.117" UserId="1974" Comment="added 201 characters in body" Text="I need to replace the remote control from my Samsung UN50KU6300 TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main priority is obtaining a remote that works like the original did, in that, the remote would work without line of sight with the TV. For example, the remote could be underneath a blanket and it would still control the TV without difficultly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Base on this, what technology does the original remote use (so I can specify that in my searches for a replacement)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm discovering remotes that claim compatibility, but I'm worried that they won't work the same as the original in terms of the priorities I've discussed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:** I ultimately purchased [remote model BN59-01242A][2]. I'll report back with another update after it arrives and I see if it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzsXG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/0X6-04KT-0M0V1?Item=9SIADBSAYC9756" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47919" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13393" RevisionGUID="27a435ef-d65f-4218-a837-3335a0fc65cb" CreationDate="2020-04-29T23:16:45.533" UserId="15743" Comment="added location, budget" Text="What computer (I'm open to laptop or desktop) would be good for a realatively newbie coder who'll be entering a UX/UI bootcamp soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little background: I'm a lifelong PC/windows users (I'm coming from the business world), and while I've purchased and tried a few Apple/Mac products in my life, they've never quite gelled with me. I tend to dislike the fact that they're SO proprietary, i.e., I resent spending money on special chargers and cables, and I dislike the garbage bin (sorry, I'm nitpicking). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm located in the US (New Mexico), so I'll probably be ordering something though we do have a Best Buy here in town, currently closed due to COVID restrictions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is somewhat open though I'd prefer to be under $2K if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, should I view this opportunity as my foray into the Mac world, or should I stick with PC-based tech since that's what I'm most familiar and comfortable with? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for sharing your tips and thoughts, particularly if you've been in a similar position." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47920" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13395" RevisionGUID="c8eb85ca-ecef-4fd4-839b-979a544ee475" CreationDate="2020-04-29T23:33:19.587" UserId="9825" Comment="added 133 characters in body" Text="Lenovo's [ThinkPad P73][1] (model part number [20QRS00100][2]) is an excellent machine for just under two kilobucks, with a 17.3&quot; screen, Core i9-9750H CPU, 16 GB of (expandible) DDR4 RAM, a NVIDIA Quadro T2000 GPU, and a 512 GB SSD. It's fast and upgradable, the screen's large, and it's very easy to service when you need to beef it up. Lenovo's documentation is first rate, and IBM Global Service will stand behind you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend Lenovo ThinkPads over other machines with the same specs because of the last two items, even if I had to pay more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P73/p/20QRS00100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_P73?M=20QRS00100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47921" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13395" RevisionGUID="6579b269-db52-4c33-9e0b-80d337c7c0ae" CreationDate="2020-04-29T23:45:26.510" UserId="9825" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="Lenovo's [ThinkPad P73][1] (model part number [20QRS00100][2]) is an excellent machine for [just under two kilobucks today when ordered from Lenovo][3], with a 17.3&quot; screen, Core i9-9750H CPU, 16 GB of (expandible) DDR4 RAM, a NVIDIA Quadro T2000 GPU, and a 512 GB SSD. It's fast and upgradable, the screen's large, and it's very easy to service when you need to beef it up. Lenovo's documentation is first rate, and IBM Global Service will stand behind you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend Lenovo ThinkPads over other machines with the same specs because of the last two items, even if I had to pay more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P73/p/20QRS00100&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_P73?M=20QRS00100&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Io9Ca.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47922" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13399" RevisionGUID="813058c1-ca25-421d-9a50-988199986cd9" CreationDate="2020-04-30T07:24:12.580" UserId="15750" Text="I work in the corner of a sunny office, there are four large windows right behind me. Normally it's fine but sometimes - depending on the position of the sun, unpleasant glares are visible on my screen (see photo below). That's especially annoying as I mostly use dark-themed IDE's for programming. I can close the blinds, but then I feel like I work in a basement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a better display, and the glaring problem is my main criteria for choosing it. Since it's for the office, not gaming, I don't care about reaction time or refreshing rate.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current monitor is 24&quot; and I think 27&quot; should be a bit better, but I don't think I need anything bigger. It would be nice if the monitor will be cheaper than 500$, but I can make an exception if it will be really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mVDR.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47923" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13399" RevisionGUID="813058c1-ca25-421d-9a50-988199986cd9" CreationDate="2020-04-30T07:24:12.580" UserId="15750" Text="Programming monitor that eliminates glares" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47924" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13399" RevisionGUID="813058c1-ca25-421d-9a50-988199986cd9" CreationDate="2020-04-30T07:24:12.580" UserId="15750" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47928" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13401" RevisionGUID="60652a16-a406-404d-85e3-24feb1e8a9f6" CreationDate="2020-04-30T09:33:16.550" UserId="15752" Text="Maybe a completely different solution. Regarding the 'not able to install software' : there is a whole ecosystem of 'Portable Applications'. These are applications that do not require any admin-rights or access to protected directories like Program Files or Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Often they can be &quot;installed&quot; by extracting a downloaded ZIP-file. For instance this one: https://www.portablefreeware.com/?id=1738 (&quot;prevent sleep&quot;). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, you might want to run them by a virusscanner first. I have some experience in (my opinion) false positives, where the IT-guys forced me to reinstall my whole laptop because some 'heuristic scanner' found some programming techniques that hackers also employ.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Furthermore, test if your screensaver/locker can be stopped just pressing the control or alt key. This doesn't yield real keystrokes but might prevent locking. Putting a weight on the control-key shouldn't be to difficult.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47942" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13404" RevisionGUID="92716ccf-eadc-45e5-a2be-fbd29254cc92" CreationDate="2020-04-30T14:21:18.650" UserId="9825" Text="3M makes [add-on non-glare filters][1] you could add to your existing monitors in a variety of sizes. Soe does Flexion; [here's a 24&quot; version][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Privacy-Screen-Protectors/Protection-Products/Anti-Glare/?N=5002385%208710873%208711017%208725316%208725355%208725357%203294857497&amp;rt=r3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protective-Widescreen-Computer/dp/B0126X39KG/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47943" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13404" RevisionGUID="1e3ac08d-f6fb-4b86-9825-007276afd136" CreationDate="2020-04-30T15:11:05.817" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="3M makes [add-on non-glare filters][1] you could add to your existing monitors in a variety of sizes, like this [24&quot; widescreen][2]. So does Flexion; [here's a 24&quot; version][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Privacy-Screen-Protectors/Protection-Products/Anti-Glare/?N=5002385%208710873%208711017%208725316%208725355%208725357%203294857497&amp;rt=r3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Anti-Glare-Filter-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B017BCV184&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protective-Widescreen-Computer/dp/B0126X39KG/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47944" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13404" RevisionGUID="1ced0a19-481b-408a-aa1f-dc9426f3cb22" CreationDate="2020-04-30T15:28:36.187" UserId="9825" Comment="added 379 characters in body" Text="HP's 24&quot; anti-glare monitor is available for [$197 in the US][1], as is their [27&quot; monitor][2], both well within your budget. Here's a [datasheet][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, 3M makes [add-on non-glare filters][4] you could add to your existing monitors in a variety of sizes, like this [24&quot; widescreen][5]. So does Flexion; [here's a 24&quot; version][6].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-P274-Full-Anti-glare-Monitor/dp/B07VFC787T/ref=sr_1_4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-P274-Full-Anti-glare-Monitor/dp/B07VFC787T/ref=sr_1_3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://content.etilize.com/Manufacturer-Brochure/1059541992.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Privacy-Screen-Protectors/Protection-Products/Anti-Glare/?N=5002385%208710873%208711017%208725316%208725355%208725357%203294857497&amp;rt=r3&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Anti-Glare-Filter-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B017BCV184&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protective-Widescreen-Computer/dp/B0126X39KG/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47945" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13404" RevisionGUID="35c68724-1a0b-4c18-b473-29862628c90e" CreationDate="2020-04-30T15:34:45.303" UserId="9825" Comment="added 379 characters in body" Text="HP's 24&quot; anti-glare monitor is available for [$197 in the US][1], as is their [27&quot; monitor][2], both well within your budget. The 24&quot; is [€129][3] and the 27&quot; monitor is [€159][4] if bought close to you. Here's a [datasheet][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, 3M makes [add-on non-glare filters][6] you could add to your existing monitors in a variety of sizes, like this [24&quot; widescreen][7]. So does Flexion; [here's a 24&quot; version][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-P274-Full-Anti-glare-Monitor/dp/B07VFC787T/ref=sr_1_4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-P274-Full-Anti-glare-Monitor/dp/B07VFC787T/ref=sr_1_3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/HP-Zoll-Full-Monitor-HDMI/dp/B07PN63WQ8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.de/HP-Zoll-Full-Monitor-HDMI/dp/B07PQGRN5Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://content.etilize.com/Manufacturer-Brochure/1059541992.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Privacy-Screen-Protectors/Protection-Products/Anti-Glare/?N=5002385%208710873%208711017%208725316%208725355%208725357%203294857497&amp;rt=r3&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Anti-Glare-Filter-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B017BCV184&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Anti-Glare-Protective-Widescreen-Computer/dp/B0126X39KG/ref=sr_1_7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47947" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="0442adcc-5032-40ce-825b-a8daf263fa12" CreationDate="2020-04-30T18:02:25.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47951" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13406" RevisionGUID="1f15b236-7fb7-405b-b3af-32db7e587aba" CreationDate="2020-04-30T19:55:47.090" UserId="15753" Text="Since you're wanting an arranger keyboard may I recommend the Tyros 5 (76-note version) which can split the arranger and keyboard functions into 6 - 8 different outputs. (Press &quot;mixing console -&gt; output&quot; to access this complete output matrix menu.) You can split and send any section of the keyboard or arranger functions up to 6 mono or 3 stereo outputs (eg LH, RH, RH part 2, RH part 3, multi-pads, vocal harmonies, style bass, style drums, audio drums, whatever is needed). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use the Tyros 5 this way in my facebook and YouTube live videos. It's a great tool to be able to separate the outputs and split the keyboard and separate the two hands, and even more so to send out separate arranger instruments and vocal harmonies. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Dr. Steve Kuban&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Here's an example: &quot;Bridge Over Troubled Water.&quot; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://youtu.be/fsrbZSERR-o&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;iframe width=&quot;560&quot; height=&quot;315&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/fsrbZSERR-o&quot; frameborder=&quot;0&quot; allow=&quot;accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture&quot; allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the output assigns I used:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Output 1 &amp; 2 (stereo): arranger instruments (bass, drums, guitars) plus left hand;&#xD;&#xA;Output 3 &amp; 4 (stereo): right hand (playing the live piano)&#xD;&#xA;Output 5 &amp; 6: live ALTO vocal harmony to 5 (using the built-in vocal harmonizer)&#xD;&#xA;              live TENOR vocal harmony to 6 &#xD;&#xA;(I like sending the vocals out on separate outputs, it gives the ability to adjust the vocal harmony blend as needed.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While singing live on facebook or YouTube, at the same time I output and record these 6 outputs to separate tracks of a multitrack recorder (eg. Zoom R24 8-track recorder, or DAW via an audio interface with discrete outputs, eg a Saffire Pro24DSP which has 16 simultaneous inputs, that's what I use)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47955" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="d16c4598-1774-49b7-97ab-4bc5daee7016" CreationDate="2020-04-30T21:04:55.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47966" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10218" RevisionGUID="9f1d1948-e35a-4d38-a591-15e5fa9e316c" CreationDate="2020-04-30T23:07:30.870" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47971" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="2689" RevisionGUID="da7cf6a3-8ec7-4891-9ec4-a2a3043e9d13" CreationDate="2020-05-01T04:10:46.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47973" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="fd16f9f2-d144-4388-8d6f-59502599e532" CreationDate="2020-05-01T06:04:15.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="52959248-5b2c-400e-aca2-04d49a5e4719" CreationDate="2020-05-01T09:20:46.843" UserId="14545" Text="It has been years after most TV boxes support HDMI2.0 4K60, but PCs with integrated GPU still doesn't support this well, in most case the chipsets support it but the mother board doesn't support this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem of 4K30 is higher latency. Problem of FHD is image not as sharp as 4K and look horrible on some TVs that do image processing (e.g. sharpness improvement) on non-native resolutions that may benifit videos but will destroy desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need CPU with integrated GPU and motherboard that support RGB 4K60 over HDMI2.0 and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Is new platform that support DDR4 3000+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Low power, but not low performance like N3150 for which running VM is real pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) (Optional) PCIe*8+ slots for expansion (PCIe*1 is always there).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since few products seems to support this for now, recommendation= a list." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="52959248-5b2c-400e-aca2-04d49a5e4719" CreationDate="2020-05-01T09:20:46.843" UserId="14545" Text="CPU with integrated GPU and motherboard with HDMI2.0 RGB 4K60 output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="52959248-5b2c-400e-aca2-04d49a5e4719" CreationDate="2020-05-01T09:20:46.843" UserId="14545" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47981" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10189" RevisionGUID="476f5f29-e138-4b5c-94a5-2c51d1b94b44" CreationDate="2020-05-01T11:07:15.730" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47985" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="eca28b2b-07ef-44b8-977a-bdd940da10b7" CreationDate="2020-05-01T14:03:06.370" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 77 characters in body; edited tags" Text="It has been years after most TV boxes support HDMI2.0 4K60, but PCs with integrated GPU still doesn't support this well, in most case the chipsets support it but the mother board doesn't support this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem of 4K30 is higher latency. Problem of FHD is image not as sharp as 4K and look horrible on some TVs that do image processing (e.g. sharpness improvement) on non-native resolutions that may benifit videos but will destroy desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need CPU with integrated GPU and motherboard that support RGB 4K60 over HDMI2.0 and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Is new platform that support DDR4 3000+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Low power, but not low performance like N3150 for which running VM is real pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) (Optional) PCIe*8+ slots for expansion (PCIe*1 is always there)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47986" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="eca28b2b-07ef-44b8-977a-bdd940da10b7" CreationDate="2020-05-01T14:03:06.370" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 77 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47991" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="bb317ab7-4da5-429c-ae41-12f62aebec50" CreationDate="2020-05-01T15:11:16.350" UserId="9825" Text="The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47992" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="c7af456b-6052-4059-83b2-35c4244f6d98" CreationDate="2020-05-01T15:25:04.593" UserId="9825" Comment="added 298 characters in body" Text="The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the [Armari Magnetar V25R-RA750G2-2S][4] SBC runs with a Ryzen 5 or 7 APU w/ HDMI 2.0 60Hz video, DDR4 3200 MHz RAM, one PCIe3 x16 or two PCIe3 x16 (at x8  speed) expansion slots, with support for the RTX2070 for 60Hz 7680x4320 HDMI 2.0 video, which ticks all three of your boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://armari.com/system.asp?SysID=1974" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47994" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8989" RevisionGUID="f02d294f-a06e-41a5-a33f-7a2822df9787" CreationDate="2020-05-01T16:21:17.663" UserId="9039" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="I own a MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF with an standard HDD. I want to upgrade it with a new SSD but my question is: does it support **an additional** SSD or have I to **replace** its current HDD with a new SSD? And which form factor should I look for when shopping?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a similar question [here][1] but I'm not sure is the model are fully compatible nor if the asker will be able to have 2 drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the 3rd response of [this thread][2] talks about a &quot;combo&quot; slot but again I'm not sure if that answers my question.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1952/additional-ssd-for-msi-ge62-apache-pro&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=289610.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: The answer was correct and I now have a SSD and a HDD installed in my laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47995" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13171" RevisionGUID="f387f662-ce2d-416b-bb32-d387973c4060" CreationDate="2020-05-01T17:08:10.893" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47996" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="84381a37-da9a-4894-92b0-ee19bb334034" CreationDate="2020-05-01T19:01:25.810" UserId="9825" Comment="added 181 characters in body" Text="The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the [Armari Magnetar V25R-RA750G2-2S][4] SBC runs with a Ryzen 5 or 7 APU w/ HDMI 2.0 60Hz video, DDR4 3200 MHz RAM, one PCIe3 x16 or two PCIe3 x16 (at x8  speed) expansion slots, with support for the RTX2070 for 60Hz 7680x4320 HDMI 2.0 video, which ticks all three of your boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel's [Extreme NUC 9][5] has similar capabilities and, again, ticks all the boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://armari.com/system.asp?SysID=1974&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc9i9qnx.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="47997" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="e09ed77c-4b0f-493d-851e-edd11f1bb757" CreationDate="2020-05-01T19:04:55.600" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="47999" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="894e540e-6783-4434-95e7-34633a4eb229" CreationDate="2020-05-01T21:49:18.930" UserId="9825" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="Three suggestions for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A) The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B) Also, the [Armari Magnetar V25R-RA750G2-2S][4] SBC runs with a Ryzen 5 or 7 APU w/ HDMI 2.0 60Hz video, DDR4 3200 MHz RAM, one PCIe3 x16 or two PCIe3 x16 (at x8  speed) expansion slots, with support for the RTX2070 for 60Hz 7680x4320 HDMI 2.0 video, which ticks all three of your boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;C) In the middle, Intel's [Extreme NUC 9][5] has similar capabilities and, again, ticks all the boxes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://armari.com/system.asp?SysID=1974&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc9i9qnx.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48005" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="3e340aef-d486-4bbb-89be-8209069fe7e8" CreationDate="2020-05-02T03:19:07.360" UserId="14545" Comment="make it more clear" Text="It has been years after most TV boxes support HDMI2.0 4K60, but PCs with integrated GPU still doesn't support this well, in most case the chipsets support it but the mother board doesn't support this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Problem of 4K30 is higher latency. Problem of FHD is image not as sharp as 4K and look horrible on some TVs that do image processing (e.g. sharpness improvement) on non-native resolutions that may benifit videos but will destroy desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need CPU with integrated GPU and motherboard that support RGB 4K60 over HDMI2.0 and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Is new platform that support DDR4 3000+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Low power, but not low performance like N3150 for which running VM is real pain.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) (Optional) PCIe*8+ slots for expansion (PCIe*1 is always there).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**updated**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't make the need very clear (I thought this site is for DIY):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) The need is for CPU and motherboard for DIY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Mainstream priced motherboard from top vendors is prefered.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48006" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="4bb5a4c4-ef93-488f-8a1b-411e23f57767" CreationDate="2020-05-02T06:01:40.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48007" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="cb250eee-8989-47f6-bc0f-e26b17195a73" CreationDate="2020-05-02T07:03:17.693" UserId="9825" Comment="added 557 characters in body" Text="Here are kit form suggestions for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel's [Extreme NUC 9][4] SBC-chassis-CPU kits have similar capabilities with  Intel® Core™ processors ranging from [i5-9300H][5], [i7-9750H][6], [i7-9850H][7], [i9-9980HK][8], to the [E-2286M][9], which ticks the boxes. Here are [CPU comparisons][10].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc9i7qnx.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191075/intel-core-i5-9300h-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-10-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191045/intel-core-i7-9750h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-50-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191047/intel-core-i7-9850h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/192990/intel-core-i9-9980hk-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/192993/intel-xeon-e-2286m-processor-16m-cache-2-40-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/compare.html?productIds=192993,191047,191045,192990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48016" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="ec79c573-0c8b-4253-af14-b428c55130b1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T19:01:05.087" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="71232712-077b-4170-99ca-79bd58c890f1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T20:16:39.600" UserId="15765" Text="I have an oscilloscope which measures Voltage changes up to 10 Mhz analog bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;Now I want to measure magnetic field exposure at some workstations.&#xD;&#xA;I don't have to fullfill TCO, I only want to compare the measurings relatively.&#xD;&#xA;It should be 3 axis summing up so I shouldn't need to care for orientation.&#xD;&#xA;I have a search coil with 30 windings, but it shows 570kHz everywhere..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48018" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="71232712-077b-4170-99ca-79bd58c890f1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T20:16:39.600" UserId="15765" Text="Magnetic field sensor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48019" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="71232712-077b-4170-99ca-79bd58c890f1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T20:16:39.600" UserId="15765" Text="&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48031" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8733" RevisionGUID="6d2eee10-ec0d-469a-b06f-32103e3b9cd8" CreationDate="2020-05-03T05:03:35.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48040" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13411" RevisionGUID="43a30f20-18dd-41e1-960a-f9e4c7ab3c59" CreationDate="2020-05-04T01:57:51.203" UserId="9825" Comment="added 367 characters in body; deleted 125 characters in body" Text="Here are kit form suggestions for you:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The high performance Ryzen APU of the [ASRock DeskMini A300][1] single board computer provides 60Hz vertical resolution in 4K video from its HDMI 2.0 video output and will use up to 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM, thereby meeting your requirements 1 and 2. Here are [two][2] [reviews][3].&#xA;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel's [Extreme NUC 9][6] SBC-chassis-CPU kits have similar capabilities with  Intel® Core™ processors ranging from [i5-9300H][7], [i7-9750H][8], [i7-9850H][9], [i9-9980HK][10], to the [E-2286M][11], which ticks the boxes. Here are [CPU comparisons][12].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.asrock.com/nettop/AMD/DeskMini%20A300%20Series/#Specification&#xA;  [2]: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asrock-deskmini-a300-pc-barebones,6109.html&#xA;  [3]: https://www.anandtech.com/show/14251/asrock-deskmini-a300-review-an-affordable-diy-amd-ryzen-minipc&#xA;  [4]: http://linuxgizmos.com/linux-friendly-whiskey-lake-boards-feature-up-to-15-year-availability&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/193554/intel-core-i7-8665ue-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-40-ghz.html&#xA;  [6]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/kits/nuc9i7qnx.html&#xA;  [7]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191075/intel-core-i5-9300h-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-10-ghz.html&#xA;  [8]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191045/intel-core-i7-9750h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-50-ghz.html&#xA;  [9]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191047/intel-core-i7-9850h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html&#xA;  [10]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/192990/intel-core-i9-9980hk-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xA;  [11]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/192993/intel-xeon-e-2286m-processor-16m-cache-2-40-ghz.html&#xA;  [12]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/compare.html?productIds=192993,191047,191045,192990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13418" RevisionGUID="54eac533-85de-4f6a-b3b2-cd2b3c2dab9f" CreationDate="2020-05-04T08:13:19.623" UserId="15775" Text="My PC only has USB-A ports and I would like to have a hub which I can connect (so it needs USB-A connection) and which provides USB-A and USB-C ports. I do not need any of the fancy optional features USB-C can provide like Thunderbolt, DisplayPort or high power output, just plain USB3 will do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only devices I could find so far are of the *Docking Station* category coming with a very steep price tag. All the normal hubs I found with USB-C ports are having a USB-C uplink connection as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lack of such a device made me wonder, if there might be a technical (or legal) reason that such a device cannot exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13418" RevisionGUID="54eac533-85de-4f6a-b3b2-cd2b3c2dab9f" CreationDate="2020-05-04T08:13:19.623" UserId="15775" Text="Hub with USB-A uplink and USB-C ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13418" RevisionGUID="54eac533-85de-4f6a-b3b2-cd2b3c2dab9f" CreationDate="2020-05-04T08:13:19.623" UserId="15775" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48044" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13419" RevisionGUID="78ba6bb9-3bd0-44b6-b86a-e0158f242a4f" CreationDate="2020-05-04T15:09:48.907" UserId="9825" Text="Technical reason: A USB-C device must be driven by a USB-C 'uplink' port in the PC. Since your PC does not have a USB-C port, no USB-C device can connect. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I'd suggest adding a USB-C card such as a [$21 card][1] from NewEgg, or a [$25 card][2] from Amazon. Both connect to PCIe slots on your motherboard, so please check that you have the necessary card slot available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/axgear-model-usbc-pcie-2p-pci-express-controller-card/p/17Z-00B4-00012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Type-C-Charging-Desktop-PC-black/dp/B01FH6I0XK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13419" RevisionGUID="21a78c13-d4f0-4060-ba38-23a24b263486" CreationDate="2020-05-04T15:15:14.837" UserId="9825" Comment="added 124 characters in body" Text="Technical reason: A USB-C device must be driven by a USB-C 'uplink' port in the PC. Since your PC does not have a USB-C port, no USB-C device can connect. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I'd suggest adding a USB-C card such as a [$21 card][1] from NewEgg, or a [$25 card][2] from Amazon. Both connect to PCIe slots on your desktop motherboard, so please check that you have the necessary card slot available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your PC is a laptop, there's no solution for it, as the ExpressCard expansion card slot does not support USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/axgear-model-usbc-pcie-2p-pci-express-controller-card/p/17Z-00B4-00012&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Type-C-Charging-Desktop-PC-black/dp/B01FH6I0XK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48046" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12943" RevisionGUID="2a629441-9e00-483a-bdbe-4e7f498532f8" CreationDate="2020-05-04T16:36:42.827" UserId="9825" Comment="added 141 characters in body" Text="An upgrade of another PC left me w/ components to reuse in this PC. I'd like to think before buying. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need an AM4 socket motherboard, and want a Linux-friendly (Debian family) build for virtualization, to enable opening Win10 from within Linux. I want [IOMMU][1] and all OS used will be 64-bit. Here's the hardware I wish to reuse in that motherboard:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X   &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 2 each 16GB DIMMs, DDR4 3200, dual Kingston, dual rank   &#xD;&#xA;GPU: GTX 1080  &#xD;&#xA;SSD: M.2, 2 each NVMe, 1 TB  &#xD;&#xA;PSU: 680W  &#xD;&#xA;Case: Spacious ATX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Everything I could find by searching Amazon and Newegg for an x470 OR x570 motherboard reveal no Linux driver support from the manufacturer; Realtek drivers are a massive recurring pain, quite frequently, over at https://askubuntu.com and I definitely wish to avoid Realtek LAN and WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finding drivers for Linux are the eternal problem as most motherboard manufacturers do not provide them, and review sites such as [KitGuru][2] don't discuss Linux, only Windows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does any AM4 motherboard have manufacturer support for Linux?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://us.informatiweb.net/tutorials/it/9-bios/215--enable-iommu-or-vt-d-in-your-motherboard-bios.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.kitguru.net/reviews/?category_name=motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48047" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13419" RevisionGUID="c0b2224a-e5f6-48da-a236-45743c184b24" CreationDate="2020-05-04T16:44:39.430" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 28 characters in body" Text="Technical reason: A USB-C device must be driven by a USB-C 'uplink' port in the PC. Since your PC does not have a USB-C port, no USB-C device can connect. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, I'd suggest adding a USB-C card such as a [$19 card][1] from NewEgg, or a [$25 card][2] from Amazon. Both connect to PCIe slots on your desktop motherboard, so please check that you have the necessary card slot available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If your PC is a laptop, there's no solution for it, as the ExpressCard expansion card slot does not support USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/en-labs-model-pcieu3acs20/p/17Z-00FJ-00002&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Type-C-Charging-Desktop-PC-black/dp/B01FH6I0XK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48048" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13420" RevisionGUID="12e2d335-7ca0-474c-b03e-a6807a18edf3" CreationDate="2020-05-04T18:15:02.340" UserId="15773" Text="An access point is an access point because it only officially supports access point firmware.  If you must have the label &quot;Access Point&quot; on the device, then it will be a device that is sub-par to what you would be able to get by just purchasing a small all-in-one linux computer such as a thin client.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  An access point that runs open linux is no longer an access point, it's just a computer, even though it may look exactly like an access point.  New thin clients can be somewhat expensive, but older models that can be purchased as &quot;new old stock&quot; can be found in the $100-$200USD range and would provide more than enough performance to act as an access point and/or router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[HP Thin Clients][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Dell Wyse Thin Clients][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www8.hp.com/h20195/V2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa4-5632enw&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/ly/business/p/thin-and-zero-client-series/product-compare" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48049" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13421" RevisionGUID="f4fe6486-7d55-4d51-91ee-629e702cf274" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:10:14.230" UserId="15777" Text="I have a mid-2014 Retina 15-inch MacBook Pro. I'm looking to buy a good cheap printer that connects to this MacBook, preferably through USB. What printers would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping to buy a printer that's less than $100. If I can get a good one for less than $50 that would be great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48050" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13421" RevisionGUID="f4fe6486-7d55-4d51-91ee-629e702cf274" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:10:14.230" UserId="15777" Text="What's a good, cheap printer that connects to a MacBook?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48051" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13421" RevisionGUID="f4fe6486-7d55-4d51-91ee-629e702cf274" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:10:14.230" UserId="15777" Text="&lt;printer&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13422" RevisionGUID="eee4ad60-0835-4183-9988-cfff37b71c2b" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:41:45.600" UserId="9825" Text="Brother printers [support MacOS X][1]. I'd suggest the B&amp;W [Brother LH-L2320D][2] which offers duplexing for $80 FOB Destination (US).  Toner refills are also relatively inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/faqend.aspx?c=us&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=hl5450dn_all&amp;faqid=faq00000365_002&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.staples.com/Brother-HL-L2320D-Monochrome-Laser-Printer/product_1074269" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48053" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13422" RevisionGUID="9450fbcc-6105-43a1-97f2-8c7e38fceab6" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:47:39.853" UserId="9825" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="Brother printers [support MacOS X][1], and connect by USB. I'd suggest the B&amp;W [Brother LH-L2320D][2] which offers duplexing for $80 FOB Destination (US).  Toner refills are also relatively inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/faqend.aspx?c=us&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=hl5450dn_all&amp;faqid=faq00000365_002&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.staples.com/Brother-HL-L2320D-Monochrome-Laser-Printer/product_1074269" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13422" RevisionGUID="7819ba4b-fb4b-444c-9723-08139dcfd2f8" CreationDate="2020-05-04T22:21:55.013" UserId="9825" Comment="added 324 characters in body" Text="Brother printers [support MacOS X][1], and connect by USB. I'd suggest the B&amp;W [Brother LH-L2320D][2] which offers duplexing for $80 FOB Destination (US).  Toner refills are also relatively inexpensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Had mine (two models up, an all-in-one B&amp;W w/ WiFi I got on sale for $90) over a year with absolutely no problem in printing from MacOS X, Windows 10, and various Linux distros. Bought based on a very positive review at https://boingboing.net - other reviews listed at https://google.com/search?q=brother+printer+review &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.brother.com/g/b/faqend.aspx?c=us&amp;lang=en&amp;prod=hl5450dn_all&amp;faqid=faq00000365_002&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.staples.com/Brother-HL-L2320D-Monochrome-Laser-Printer/product_1074269" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48055" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13386" RevisionGUID="fd0c6ccc-1ae9-4f6f-8863-0c7ea133b2c8" CreationDate="2020-05-04T22:30:09.923" UserId="9825" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="Not weird at all; who wants to schlep two keyboards?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Yamaha MOXF6][1] offers this feature in a seven-plus octave range. To configure it to [split between two ranges][2]:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Press [MASTER] to enter the Master Keyboard mode.  &#xD;&#xA;You can setup a program to transmit Out to your DAW  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Press [JOB]  &#xD;&#xA;Press [F1] INIT  &#xD;&#xA;We will initialize a Master location - do not worry about the factory programs, they are simply example &quot;placeholders&quot;. You can overwrite these without fear of losing anything important.  &#xD;&#xA;With the &quot;All&quot; option marked, press [ENTER] to execute.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An &quot;Initialized Master&quot; is created.  &#xD;&#xA;On this main screen, press [F2] MEMORY  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can link this Master with an internal MOXF program. (You don't mention if you want to use an internal sound so this will not matter, just want to point out that if you wanted to layer the external piano with an internal MOXF sound, you could by associating this Master program with a VOICE, a PERFORMANCE or a SONG/PATTERN Mixing setup!)  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [F3] SWITCH  &#xD;&#xA;Set the ZONE SWITCH = ON  &#xD;&#xA;And set the ZONE/KNOB = ON  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [EDIT]  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can NAME the Master setup something appropriate by changing the default Name &quot;Initialized Master&quot;  &#xD;&#xA;Press the Track [1] button to view the four possible ZONES. You will be using just the first two slots.  &#xD;&#xA;[F1] TRANS (transmit) will be selected.  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 1 as follows:  &#xD;&#xA;Transmit Channel = 1  &#xD;&#xA;Internal Switch = Off  &#xD;&#xA;External Switch = On  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Press [2]  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 2 as follows:  &#xD;&#xA;Transmit Channel = 2  &#xD;&#xA;Internal Switch = Off  &#xD;&#xA;External Switch = On  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Move to [F2] NOTE  &#xD;&#xA;Here you can set your NOTE LIMITS for each ZONE, Low and High  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 1 C-2 through B2  &#xD;&#xA;Set ZONE 2 C3 through G8  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/music_production/synthesizers/moxf/index.html#product-tabs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.yamahasynth.com/ask-a-question/split-keyboard-to-transmit-over-2-midi-channels-at-once" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48056" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13396" RevisionGUID="6c25f85e-6cd8-477c-93f6-68c91ac359bb" CreationDate="2020-05-04T22:35:55.693" UserId="9825" Comment="added 175 characters in body" Text="Take all the different adapters, switches, and mixers you have, and mount them on a platform. Have a local sheet metal shop make a unifying enclosure, probably power-coated, so all the cables are concealed, and every switch, knob. and button is on the same plane and level. That's what I've done when integrating similar multi-device analog interfaces, to keep the cost down, so I did not have to farm it out to an engineer to build it from scratch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48064" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="dd2aed46-2fd5-4623-9cc5-39bbad47e0ef" CreationDate="2020-05-05T05:23:54.033" UserId="14545" Text="Need TVs that behaves more like a monitor (as bellow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only 4K 40-60 inches mainstream priced TVs that supports RGB 4K60 over HDMI2.0 ports are considered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;40 inch+ monitors are very expensive, 40 inch+ TVs are very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Monitors will turns on/off automatically (unless it is &quot;full off&quot;) when the input signal is on/off, but most TV doesn't have this feature, they will just display a no signal message when the input HDMI signal is off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Monitors will switch to another HDMI signal that is on automatically when the current displayed HDMI signal is off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) Better to be non-android TV which is to slow to turn on, but since most 4K TVs are android based, the more realizable goal is the TV have a standby mode and the time from active to standby and from standby to active is as fast as possibile (for comparison, for phone and tablet this is less than 0.5 seconds, the fastest TV I'v used need 6~10 seconds)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48065" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="dd2aed46-2fd5-4623-9cc5-39bbad47e0ef" CreationDate="2020-05-05T05:23:54.033" UserId="14545" Text="TV that behaves more like a monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48066" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="dd2aed46-2fd5-4623-9cc5-39bbad47e0ef" CreationDate="2020-05-05T05:23:54.033" UserId="14545" Text="&lt;television&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="27722d3e-e243-4f2d-8f20-ae66d589fec8" CreationDate="2020-05-05T05:29:09.890" UserId="14545" Comment="added 355 characters in body" Text="Need TVs that behaves more like a monitor (as bellow).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only 4K 40-60 inches mainstream priced TVs that supports RGB 4K60 over HDMI2.0 ports are considered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;40 inch+ monitors are very expensive, 40 inch+ TVs are very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Monitors will turns on/off automatically (unless it is &quot;full off&quot;) when the input signal is on/off, but most TV doesn't have this feature, they will just display a no signal message when the input HDMI signal is off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Monitors will switch to another HDMI signal that is on automatically when the current displayed HDMI signal is off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) Better to be non-android TV which is to slow to turn on, but since most 4K TVs are android based, the more realizable goal is the TV have a standby mode and the time from active to standby and from standby to active is as fast as possibile (for comparison, for phone and tablet this is less than 0.5 seconds, the fastest TV I'v used need 6~10 seconds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(4) Monitor will display the image when on, but for most TVs the default scene is the home page and you need operate the remote to display some HDMI signal. Besides for TVs switching between HDMI signals need multiple remote button clicks. Monitors can also remember the HDMI channel displayed last time and you don't need to swtich channel each time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="c17807cc-3ba6-4bcf-bd2e-884848baaa2c" CreationDate="2020-05-05T14:00:27.993" UserId="15780" Text="I am undertaking a research project on behalf of a client looking at fire alarm / smoke detection systems aimed at a non-domestic, non-residential market; looking at around 200+ odd devices that may work on the same system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the client is after EN54 fire alarm big-systems that work off WIFI for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done some searching and found residential ones, ie: Google Nest and Alexa based ones, but I've found it hard to find any commercial, big-fire alarm systems that are EN54 and operate via WIFI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware and can recommend such a systems?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Alibaba, Google and some big commercial suppliers and sent out emails.   But I'm hoping someone can indeed recommend, or is knowledgable of big-systems that comply with EN54 and use WIFI for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(note: I tried adding tags for firealarms, but I don't have enough XP)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48076" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="c17807cc-3ba6-4bcf-bd2e-884848baaa2c" CreationDate="2020-05-05T14:00:27.993" UserId="15780" Text="Are there any examples of non-residential EN54 fire alarm systems that use WIFI for communication?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48077" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="c17807cc-3ba6-4bcf-bd2e-884848baaa2c" CreationDate="2020-05-05T14:00:27.993" UserId="15780" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13430" RevisionGUID="1ef8807c-2feb-4340-831f-f8a1afd198ba" CreationDate="2020-05-05T16:34:03.140" UserId="15773" Text="I have seen a few digital audio mixers used at live events, and while they are impressive, they can be somewhat expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here][1] are a few examples...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sweetwater.com/c1061--iPad_iPhone_Live_Sound_Mixers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48087" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="fa1b77f3-3143-454d-a162-f7e16797f4d9" CreationDate="2020-05-05T21:10:20.533" UserId="15781" Text="I have a machine with an X399 Gibabyte board, and the BIOS support for virtualization  is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade to my 1.0 bios to a 3.0 version so I could work with Minikube and it will only boot in recovery mode. I'm contemplating upgrading the MB but I'm finding it very hard to find good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. Can folks reccomend a Mulit-GPU (NVIDIA, at least 2, preferably with support for 4, in SLI) board that is also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is a 1950X threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVME drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128MB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and windows so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible... Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket... but trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48GB current)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48088" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="fa1b77f3-3143-454d-a162-f7e16797f4d9" CreationDate="2020-05-05T21:10:20.533" UserId="15781" Text="Motherboard for ML/kubernetes/gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48089" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="fa1b77f3-3143-454d-a162-f7e16797f4d9" CreationDate="2020-05-05T21:10:20.533" UserId="15781" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48090" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="fd856e54-1e53-4b43-84e1-a1311c751b79" CreationDate="2020-05-06T05:03:10.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="c6655a49-2e3c-441e-b054-9deea416dce7" CreationDate="2020-05-06T07:36:43.863" UserId="15783" Text="Need a laptop with below requirements:&#xA;1. Keyboard must have Number pad&#xA;2. SSD or hybrid storage (small ssd+hdd)&#xA;3. Durable/sturdy body. Preferred metal alloy body.&#xA;4. Long battery life at least 8 hours.&#xA;5. Windows or no OS&#xA;6. Intel 8th or 10th generation processor&#xA;7. Good manufacturer support. &#xA;8. Good motherboard with no heating issue. &#xA;9. Maximum budget  USD900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48095" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="c6655a49-2e3c-441e-b054-9deea416dce7" CreationDate="2020-05-06T07:36:43.863" UserId="15783" Text="Affordable laptop with metal body for durability" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48096" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="c6655a49-2e3c-441e-b054-9deea416dce7" CreationDate="2020-05-06T07:36:43.863" UserId="15783" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48098" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13434" RevisionGUID="6e1cb519-39d1-4bce-8086-e9bbe7a9fd05" CreationDate="2020-05-06T11:08:09.420" UserId="15601" Text="I finally got it working. While the Wacom Link Plus suggested by @user13807 was a great help, by itself wasn't enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**You will need to:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) use a WACON Link Plus dongle; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) buy an additional USB 3.0 to USB-C cable (ex: Anker PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 cable) - although the Wacon dongle brings a USB-A to micro USB cable, you should replace it by this one (USB 3.0 to USB-C) as the former is not enough to power the monitor;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With this in hand you can easily connect the M14 to a laptop that has a USB 3.0 connector and a mini DisplayPort." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48102" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="99548eb8-0c57-43c0-a566-4795655fbcd6" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:23:01.123" UserId="9825" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="30e48eda-621e-47f4-b460-526b159e668a" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:49:01.350" UserId="24" Comment="sentences, format" Text="I have a machine with an X399 Gibabyte board, and the BIOS support for virtualization  is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade to my 1.0 bios to a 3.0 version so I could work with Minikube and it will only boot in recovery mode. I'm contemplating upgrading the MB but I'm finding it very hard to find good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. Can folks reccomend a Mulit-GPU (NVIDIA, at least 2, preferably with support for 4, in SLI) board that is also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is a 1950X threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVME drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128MB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and windows so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible. Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket. But trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48GB current)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48108" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="30e48eda-621e-47f4-b460-526b159e668a" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:49:01.350" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by -1 edit id of 1096" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="7c7835f5-e476-410e-93d0-993e37dc6686" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:49:01.350" UserId="9825" Comment="sentences, format, grammar, spelling,added web link" Text="I have a machine with one of the [Gigabyte X399 boards][1], and the BIOS support for virtualization is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade of the BIOS to a 3.0 version so I could work with Minikube and it will only boot in recovery mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm contemplating upgrading the MB but I'm finding it very hard to find good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can folks recommend a Multi-GPU (NVIDIA, at least 2, preferably with support for 4, in SLI) board that is also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus, but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is an AMD 1950X Threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVMe drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128 GB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and windows, so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible. Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket. But trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48 GB currently).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/AMD-X399" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="87522ace-fe68-497c-8d9d-207f0890c166" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:57:27.340" UserId="24" Comment="minor typos/format + comment removal + tags done as OP asked" Text="I am undertaking a research project on behalf of a client looking at fire alarm / smoke detection systems aimed at a non-domestic, non-residential market; looking at around 200+ odd devices that may work on the same system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the client is after EN54 fire alarm big-systems that work off WIFI for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done some searching and found residential ones, ie: Google Nest and Alexa based ones, but I've found it hard to find any commercial, big-fire alarm systems that are EN54 and operate via WIFI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware and can recommend such a systems?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Alibaba, Google and some big commercial suppliers and sent out emails. But I'm hoping someone can indeed recommend, or is knowledgable of big-systems that comply with EN54 and use WIFI for communication." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48111" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="87522ace-fe68-497c-8d9d-207f0890c166" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:57:27.340" UserId="24" Comment="minor typos/format + comment removal + tags done as OP asked" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48112" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="87522ace-fe68-497c-8d9d-207f0890c166" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:57:27.340" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by -1 edit id of 1095" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="82b11d31-67e0-43f0-9312-3ff6784a14d0" CreationDate="2020-05-06T12:57:27.340" UserId="9825" Comment="minor typos/format + comment removal + tags done as OP asked plus grammar, spelling, web links" Text="I am undertaking a research project on behalf of a client looking at fire alarm / smoke detection systems aimed at a non-domestic, non-residential market; looking at around 200+ odd devices that may work on the same system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the client wants big fire alarm systems which communicate over WiFi and comply with [EN54][1] ([more][2]) ([more][3]) ([more][4]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done some searching and found residential ones, i.e., Google Nest and Alexa based ones, but I've found it hard to find any commercial, big-fire alarm systems that are EN54-compliant and operate via WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware and can recommend such a system?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Alibaba, Google and some big commercial suppliers and sent out emails. I hope someone can indeed recommend, or is knowledgeable of big systems that comply with EN54 and use WiFi for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fia.uk.com/resources/british-standards/bs-en-54-series-fire-detection-alarm-systems.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sourceen54.eu/en-54-certification.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdfhttps://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EN_54" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="0c1745bf-b6a1-4e4a-862f-9fb397ca7017" CreationDate="2020-05-06T16:13:14.827" UserId="15780" Comment="Closed question, as I have enough results" Text="I am undertaking a research project on behalf of a client looking at fire alarm / smoke detection systems aimed at a non-domestic, non-residential market; looking at around 200+ odd devices that may work on the same system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the client wants big fire alarm systems which communicate over WiFi and comply with [EN54][1] ([more][2]) ([more][3]) ([more][4]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done some searching and found residential ones, i.e., Google Nest and Alexa based ones, but I've found it hard to find any commercial, big-fire alarm systems that are EN54-compliant and operate via WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware and can recommend such a system?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Alibaba, Google and some big commercial suppliers and sent out emails. I hope someone can indeed recommend, or is knowledgeable of big systems that comply with EN54 and use WiFi for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fia.uk.com/resources/british-standards/bs-en-54-series-fire-detection-alarm-systems.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sourceen54.eu/en-54-certification.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdfhttps://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EN_54&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Closed]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48122" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="e0d449de-e153-4060-a893-50ed2eef0333" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:09:17.457" UserId="83" Text="I am looking for a cable modem that has the ability to shut WiFi on and off. I need the modem to be DOCSIS 3.0 at the least. The network I’d be using this for is Spectrum. Are there models that are compatible with the requirements I have?&#xA;&#xA;Searches I’ve made have turned out modems that have WiFi but no switch to turn it on or off." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48123" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="e0d449de-e153-4060-a893-50ed2eef0333" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:09:17.457" UserId="83" Text="Cable modem with WiFi on off switch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48124" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="e0d449de-e153-4060-a893-50ed2eef0333" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:09:17.457" UserId="83" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48125" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="a990b154-9421-4bd5-8438-31455072c4f7" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:30:32.467" UserId="9825" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48126" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="e80087f9-b35b-4c96-af0f-5f46ccd03e28" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:30:39.480" UserId="9825" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="86f8c6d9-d035-4099-bd84-8afac0964f69" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:38:43.080" UserId="83" Comment="added 261 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a cable modem that has the ability to shut WiFi on and off. I need the modem to be DOCSIS 3.0 at the least. The network I’d be using this for is Spectrum. Are there models that are compatible with the requirements I have?&#xA;&#xA;Searches I’ve made have turned out modems that have WiFi but no switch to turn it on or off.&#xA;&#xA;Updates:&#xA;A physical button would great but access to the panel for on/off would be acceptable too. Ideally this would be one item housing both the modem and router. Setups that use both can work if none exist. I’m also not particular to a number of channels. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48128" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13438" RevisionGUID="7e4208e4-fca9-4d1f-8d14-fead0f9fd9be" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:49:04.013" UserId="9825" Text="Any 'Gateway' device (cable modem + router) allows you to disable the WiFi, if my no other means, changing the wireless LAN's IP address or network name. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48129" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13437" RevisionGUID="a51663cb-e8bf-4620-a621-9018e85d87b8" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:54:20.060" UserId="83" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a cable modem that has the ability to shut WiFi on and off. I need the modem to be DOCSIS 3.0 at the least. The network I’d be using this for is Spectrum. Are there models that are compatible with the requirements I have?&#xA;&#xA;Searches I’ve made have turned out modems that have WiFi but no switch to turn it on or off.&#xA;&#xA;Updates:&#xA;A physical button would great but access to the panel for on/off would be acceptable too. Ideally this would be one item housing both the modem and router. Setups that use both can work if none exist. For channels, my preference is 16x4 but 24x8 will si too. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48130" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13438" RevisionGUID="c83d2e6b-5c16-4367-b204-19951e55b3e0" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:54:48.287" UserId="9825" Comment="added 278 characters in body" Text="Any 'Gateway' device (cable modem + router) allows you to disable the WiFi, if my no other means, changing the wireless LAN's IP address or network name. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-nighthawk-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-24-x-8-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/4403100.p?skuId=4403100  &#xD;&#xA;and   &#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/motorola-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-16-x-4-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/5619201.p?skuId=5619201  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are immediately available from Buy More and have 24x8 channels as well as WPA2-PSK encryption and 802.11ac WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Motorola is Spectrum-certified, whereas users of the Netgear say it does work on Spectrum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48131" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13369" RevisionGUID="c00cff1e-cbcc-439c-946b-9a0ae38a8064" CreationDate="2020-05-07T03:32:06.927" UserId="9825" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48133" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13438" RevisionGUID="0f784132-1d19-49f3-9b60-ea0bac8d6661" CreationDate="2020-05-07T14:59:37.077" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="Any 'Gateway' device (cable modem + router) and any router allow you to disable the WiFi, if my no other means, changing the wireless LAN's IP address or network name. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-nighthawk-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-24-x-8-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/4403100.p?skuId=4403100  &#xD;&#xA;and   &#xD;&#xA;https://www.bestbuy.com/site/motorola-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-16-x-4-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/5619201.p?skuId=5619201  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;are immediately available from Buy More and have 24x8 channels as well as WPA2-PSK encryption and 802.11ac WiFi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Motorola is Spectrum-certified, whereas users of the Netgear say it does work on Spectrum." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48134" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="f7226cff-ec9b-4dda-b5ee-17d061d9d33f" CreationDate="2020-05-07T20:07:10.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48135" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="e189a618-e2e0-4c3f-88a8-3facac9231b8" CreationDate="2020-05-08T00:03:15.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48138" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="13427" RevisionGUID="03cf1c0d-0f55-439a-8f3b-97b4397ec290" CreationDate="2020-05-08T00:32:18.273" UserId="8" Comment="Rollback to [82b11d31-67e0-43f0-9312-3ff6784a14d0]" Text="I am undertaking a research project on behalf of a client looking at fire alarm / smoke detection systems aimed at a non-domestic, non-residential market; looking at around 200+ odd devices that may work on the same system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the client wants big fire alarm systems which communicate over WiFi and comply with [EN54][1] ([more][2]) ([more][3]) ([more][4]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done some searching and found residential ones, i.e., Google Nest and Alexa based ones, but I've found it hard to find any commercial, big-fire alarm systems that are EN54-compliant and operate via WiFi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware and can recommend such a system?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked on Alibaba, Google and some big commercial suppliers and sent out emails. I hope someone can indeed recommend, or is knowledgeable of big systems that comply with EN54 and use WiFi for communication.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.fia.uk.com/resources/british-standards/bs-en-54-series-fire-detection-alarm-systems.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.sourceen54.eu/en-54-certification.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdfhttps://uk.advancedco.com/media/155792/680_212_01__Application_Note___EN54_13_Overview.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EN_54" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="4a8338ae-f00e-4009-9482-c341062e95ad" CreationDate="2020-05-08T00:33:27.820" UserId="24" Comment="format, padding" Text="I need a laptop with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Keyboard must have a numberic keypad.&#xD;&#xA;2. SSD or hybrid storage (small ssd+hdd).&#xD;&#xA;3. Durable/sturdy body. Preferred metal alloy body.&#xD;&#xA;4. Long battery life at least 8 hours.&#xD;&#xA;5. Windows or no OS.&#xD;&#xA;6. Intel 8th or 10th generation processor.&#xD;&#xA;7. Good manufacturer support. &#xD;&#xA;8. Good motherboard with no heating issue. &#xD;&#xA;9. Maximum budget is USD900." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48145" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13433" RevisionGUID="4a8338ae-f00e-4009-9482-c341062e95ad" CreationDate="2020-05-08T00:33:27.820" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 9825, 8 edit id of 1097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48185" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10090" RevisionGUID="41515903-a7b1-48c1-853b-1b9da3105f4e" CreationDate="2020-05-09T17:04:35.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48206" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="c12c87e0-bbde-4314-85be-9563c37c603f" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:23:22.650" UserId="15799" Text="I am on the market for a new machine to employ mainly for work and other minor stuff like browsing, Netflix, Skype. I work in economics research, therefore I need to easily work with reasonably big datasets (say, ~25Gb of data) and pure, brute computational power for simulations, model estimation, some light machine learning task. I write codes mainly in R/Python/Julia/Matlab/Stata languages, plus LaTeX for writing presentations and articles. I can get some discount on Dell machines through my Uni, which restricts the options to basically two alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - XPS 13, fully spec'ed (i7 10th gen, 16 Gb RAM, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA; - Latitude 7400, fully spec'ed (i7 8th gen, 16 Gb RAM expansible, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both machines fit the portability requirement, as I can also work at a conference without carrying around a stone slate and the after discount prices are close enough (&lt;1500€). Here comes my question then: which one should I favour, knowing my work needs? As of now, ports and expansible RAM on the Latitude are an advantage that comes at the cost of separated AC port and thickness, while the XPS has fewer ports, RAM is soldered but has more portability and is powered via USB C (one less charger to carry around)?&#xD;&#xA;Please note that when I am at office I usually use a second screen if that helps in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48207" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="c12c87e0-bbde-4314-85be-9563c37c603f" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:23:22.650" UserId="15799" Text="Portable laptop for academic research" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48208" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="c12c87e0-bbde-4314-85be-9563c37c603f" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:23:22.650" UserId="15799" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48209" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="da8fc5e3-c862-4023-8ba8-8cf92e3c2fb5" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:28:58.290" UserId="15799" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I am on the market for a new machine to employ mainly for work and other minor stuff like browsing, Netflix, Skype. I work in economics research, therefore I need to easily work with reasonably big datasets (say, ~25Gb of data) and pure, brute computational power for simulations, model estimation, some light machine learning task. I write codes mainly in R/Python/Julia/Matlab/Stata languages, plus LaTeX for writing presentations and articles. I can get some discount on Dell machines through my Uni, which restricts the options to basically two alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - XPS 13, fully spec'ed (i7 10th gen, 16 Gb RAM, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA; - Latitude 7400, fully spec'ed (i7 8th gen, 16 Gb RAM expansible, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both machines fit the portability requirement, as I can also work at a conference without carrying around a stone slate and the after discount prices are close enough (&lt;1500€). Here comes my question then: which one should I favour, knowing my work needs? As of now, ports and expansible RAM on the Latitude are an advantage that comes at the cost of separated AC port and thickness, while the XPS has fewer ports, RAM is soldered but has more portability and is powered via USB C (one less charger to carry around)?&#xD;&#xA;Please note that when I am at office I usually use a second screen if that helps in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit: 15&quot; would be ok but are usually much more pricier and less portable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48216" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13450" RevisionGUID="b5519ca0-21ab-4086-8020-7d074112bd73" CreationDate="2020-05-11T03:21:37.147" UserId="9825" Text="The XPS with a i7-10710U has more processing cores than the i7-8665U which could help it tackle multiple simultaneous programs or threads. Performance improvement in programs, which are not memory-bound will be lower. It _could_ take advantage of faster memory access, but Dell chose _slower_ memory for the XPS. Ouch!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Latitude with a Core i7-8665U advantage can run at a higher operating frequency than the i7-10710U, and its memory is faster (2400 MHz vs 2133 MHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the memory is faster and more expandable, Windows 10 Pro is included (so it can join domains), and the warranty is three years instead of one, I favor the Latitude. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [more detailed comparison chart][1] is available for review.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1637cIFiPyIkPtI5n0Q5c44pee8x-veaQhYJB5i5m6sY/edit?usp=sharing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48220" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="a744a78c-4089-4932-bc88-ed27c7f53843" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:06:06.420" UserId="15804" Text="One of my friends has some issues with the 3.5mm audio jacks on the front of the PC Case. He's not technical enough to look into fixing those and what that implies. With lockdown all over the place, it's hard to go to a specialised shop so we are looking for some alternative to make this work. &#xD;&#xA;The jacks on the back of the case work well, but the headphones cable is not long enough to allow to sit comfortably at the desk. We are looking at some alternatives to make it work. &#xD;&#xA;I would like something like a little hub (mc+headphones) he could connect to the back of his pc and leverage those ports via this extension. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We looked at a few things but some were not what we were after: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) [Desktop adapter for specific desks with the round hole cutouts][1] &#xD;&#xA;This one only works if you have those corner holes in your desktop, so not great a great fit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) [Front Panel][2]&#xD;&#xA;The person can't be trusted to open the case and install this since they have no experience with this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) USB to 3.5 mm not really excited about, they are usually short and the 1 working front USB port is used for other stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) [Creative Sound - Desktop audio control module][3] Something like this module would be nice, but without the entire card since opening the case is not an option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5) I have one of these hubs on my keyboard, but his keyboard does not have one, unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-recessed-Built-Connector-Microphone-black/dp/B07H4MYS4C/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SQ17YD7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07SQ17YD7&amp;pd_rd_w=35Cj9&amp;pf_rd_p=1055d8b2-c10c-4d7d-b50d-96300553e15d&amp;pd_rd_wg=9QwnN&amp;pf_rd_r=E04H8QMAQ20V5CYVT26B&amp;pd_rd_r=45836c56-c391-4c7d-b68f-44ec1031709e&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTdDOU04WkJaTUNRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc3Mzg2M0RDVjlGNE1HV1haQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE1NzQ4MjFJUUlZQTE3STY5UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Desktop/dp/B00A152RYG/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48221" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="a744a78c-4089-4932-bc88-ed27c7f53843" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:06:06.420" UserId="15804" Text="3.5mm Audio extension" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48222" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="a744a78c-4089-4932-bc88-ed27c7f53843" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:06:06.420" UserId="15804" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48223" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13198" RevisionGUID="104ffbe9-25b6-41e3-a88c-309af033335b" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:06:52.180" UserId="9825" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="Without an APU, you won't be able to use this PC. Some Ryzen CPUs don't have integrated graphics, and neither do the motherboards for this platform; others (such as the Ryzen 5 3400G) do. With that in mind, you have three options:  &#xD;&#xA;1) buy an APU like the 2400G, and live with the lower multi-threaded performance.  &#xD;&#xA;2) Buy a Ryzen CPU and try to source a scrap-level graphics card (aka the cheapest used PCIe graphics card you can find) just to be able to use the PC until the graphics card arrives.  &#xD;&#xA;3) don't use the PC until you can afford a GPU. Which is by far the worst option. If you can't use the PC now, you might as well delay the purchase until you can afford all the parts. PC parts tend to get cheaper over time, and new parts become available." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13450" RevisionGUID="f6814a18-8df1-4581-a8a1-8170142f0c29" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:13:15.217" UserId="9825" Comment="added 148 characters in body" Text="The XPS with a i7-10710U has more processing cores than the i7-8665U which could help it tackle multiple simultaneous programs or threads. Performance improvement in programs, which are not memory-bound will be lower. It _could_ take advantage of faster memory access, but Dell chose _slower_ memory for the XPS. Ouch!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Latitude with a Core i7-8665U advantage can run at a higher operating frequency than the i7-10710U, and its memory is faster (2400 MHz vs 2133 MHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the memory is faster and more expandable, Windows 10 Pro is included (so it can join domains), and the warranty is **three** years instead of one, I favor the Latitude. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [more detailed comparison chart][1] is available for review. It shows the Latitude has a USB 3.1 Gen 1 without  PowerShare, a USB 3.1 Gen 1 with PowerShare, and a Thunderbolt™ 3 w/ DisplayPort &amp; Power Delivery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1637cIFiPyIkPtI5n0Q5c44pee8x-veaQhYJB5i5m6sY/edit?usp=sharing" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48225" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13450" RevisionGUID="f4f1487f-9ea3-43c6-b5fb-bcb5f987d529" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:35:56.900" UserId="9825" Comment="added 411 characters in body" Text="The XPS with a i7-10710U has more processing cores than the i7-8665U which could help it tackle multiple simultaneous programs or threads. Performance improvement in programs, which are not memory-bound will be lower. It _could_ take advantage of faster memory access, but Dell chose _slower_ memory for the XPS. Ouch!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Latitude with a Core i7-8665U advantage can run at a higher operating frequency than the i7-10710U, and its memory is faster (2400 MHz vs 2133 MHz).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the memory is faster and more expandable, Windows 10 Pro is included (so it can join domains), and the warranty is **three** years instead of one, I favor the Latitude. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [more detailed comparison chart][1] is available for review. It shows the Latitude has a USB 3.1 Gen 1 without  PowerShare, a USB 3.1 Gen 1 with PowerShare (allows the battery on your laptop to charge a USB device), and a Thunderbolt™ 3 w/ DisplayPort &amp; Power Delivery. PowerDelivery, in theory, [allows charging in and charging out][2], but I would confirm that with Dell Latitude Sales as to power in capabilities over the Thunderbolt port; they're making bucks off the sale, they should help. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1637cIFiPyIkPtI5n0Q5c44pee8x-veaQhYJB5i5m6sY/edit?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.dell.com/community/Inspiron/Is-there-a-simple-reliable-way-to-tell-which-Dells-can-charge/td-p/7304734" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13452" RevisionGUID="1fbc588a-85e6-4fc5-b77c-9cc7fd9ac4d3" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:44:40.760" UserId="9825" Text="6) How about a 3.5mm male-3.5mm female four pole TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) extension cord? The four pole is needed since it's a headset, not just headphones (which only need three pole, tip-ring-sleeve). Examples shown at https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=3.5mm%20headset%20extension%20cable . Please confirm the plug on the end of his headset looks like the plug shown in those pix.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48227" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="57f00a19-cee4-4ef7-b080-c3cfcdc19bfc" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:57:26.583" UserId="24" Comment="Format++, padding" Text="One of my friends has some issues with the 3.5mm audio jacks on the front of the PC Case. He's not technical enough to look into fixing those and what that implies. With lockdown all over the place, it's hard to go to a specialised shop so we are looking for some alternative to make this work. &#xD;&#xA;The jacks on the back of the case work well, but the headphones cable is not long enough to allow to sit comfortably at the desk. We are looking at some alternatives to make it work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like something like a little hub (mc+headphones) he could connect to the back of his pc and leverage those ports via this extension. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We looked at a few things but some were not what we were after: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Desktop adapter for specific desks with the round hole cutouts][1] This one only works if you have those corner holes in your desktop, so not great a great fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Front Panel][2] The person can't be trusted to open the case and install this since they have no experience with this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. USB to 3.5 mm not really excited about, they are usually short and the 1 working front USB port is used for other stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. [Creative Sound - Desktop audio control module][3] Something like this module would be nice, but without the entire card since opening the case is not an option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. I have one of these hubs on my keyboard, but his keyboard does not have one, unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-recessed-Built-Connector-Microphone-black/dp/B07H4MYS4C/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SQ17YD7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07SQ17YD7&amp;pd_rd_w=35Cj9&amp;pf_rd_p=1055d8b2-c10c-4d7d-b50d-96300553e15d&amp;pd_rd_wg=9QwnN&amp;pf_rd_r=E04H8QMAQ20V5CYVT26B&amp;pd_rd_r=45836c56-c391-4c7d-b68f-44ec1031709e&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTdDOU04WkJaTUNRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc3Mzg2M0RDVjlGNE1HV1haQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE1NzQ4MjFJUUlZQTE3STY5UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Desktop/dp/B00A152RYG/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48228" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="57f00a19-cee4-4ef7-b080-c3cfcdc19bfc" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:57:26.583" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 8 edit id of 1099" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48229" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13452" RevisionGUID="4f58ee36-7980-404f-8be6-01660fa3c7e9" CreationDate="2020-05-11T16:17:04.903" UserId="9825" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="6) How about a 3.5mm male-3.5mm female four pole TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) extension cord? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The four pole is needed since it's a headset, not just headphones (which only need three pole, tip-ring-sleeve). Examples shown at https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=3.5mm%20headset%20extension%20cable . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please confirm the plug on the end of his headset looks like the plug shown in those pix.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48230" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13453" RevisionGUID="456cd34d-1bf7-44c1-8d19-ac9b298485e5" CreationDate="2020-05-11T16:58:36.433" UserId="15806" Text="Take a look at the ATEN CS1922/1924. Also there are &quot;m&quot; models that have integrated MST hubs that split the video into a DP 1.2 port and an HDMI port." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48231" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13125" RevisionGUID="4ce41e7e-fc98-457d-9f56-82c4872b130e" CreationDate="2020-05-11T17:30:47.567" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="There are many tutorials of good quality and reliability which address the issue of drive replacement for a version 8.1 second-generation 2011 MacBook Pro.  Many users have [found this to be a worthwhile upgrade][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;May I suggest you look at the [guides on YouTube][2], starting with those from [iFixIt][3]? Those were very popular with the Mac team of the [community computer rebuilding/reuse center][4] I volunteered at for many years. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every PC, MacBook, and MacBook Pro which was donated to us had its HDD or SSD replaced, wiped to milspec standard, and then reused in a different chassis to assure no user data ever fell into the hands of another user. The process is not daunting by any means. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Replacing the factory 5400 RPM HDD with a new SSD will not only improve performance, and reduce power consumption (and therefore reduce waste heat as well as prolong runtime on a battery charge), but the factory HDD is past its expected five year lifetime by now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to data migration, there are multiple drive cloning apps available which make the process practical. However, before you pick up the first tool, I would make a backup to an external drive, network-attached computer, or the cloud, and verify the backed up data matches the source; then, repeat the process to a different external drive or a different cloud provider.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Do NOT shop for an NVMe SSD as those are incompatible; you would want a SATA-III SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=Drive%20in%20a%20MacBook%20Pro%208.1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=MacBook%20Pro%202011%20drive%20replacement&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.ifixit.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.freegeek.org/who-we-are" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="75680dec-ad4b-4496-9521-5f58a9d1cd3d" CreationDate="2020-05-11T19:57:33.193" UserId="9825" Comment="added 89 characters in body" Text="I have a machine with one of the [Gigabyte X399 boards][1], and the BIOS support for virtualization is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade of the BIOS to a 3.0 version so I could work with [Minikube][2] and it will only boot in recovery mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm contemplating upgrading the MB but I'm finding it very hard to find good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can folks recommend a Multi-GPU mainboard (supporting 2 more more NVIDIA GPUs, preferably with support for 4, w/ SLI) also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus, but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is an AMD 1950X Threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVMe drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128 GB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and windows, so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible. Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket. But trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48 GB currently).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/AMD-X399&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://kubernetes.io/docs/setup/learning-environment/minikube/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="2fa01b70-8ff2-48a9-8179-cd9649448f68" CreationDate="2020-05-12T04:07:10.670" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48238" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11809" RevisionGUID="c8ef9533-b1f3-4034-a146-e4e154d7153e" CreationDate="2020-05-12T07:03:05.387" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48248" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13456" RevisionGUID="a582c959-88e9-4525-a5f3-879cdbd59ae9" CreationDate="2020-05-12T14:51:12.713" UserId="1974" Text="I'm looking for a low-profile PCI-Express video card that will support 1080p on at least 2 monitors simultaneously. That's easy to find, but I'm also wanting one that has the versatility of having all 4 of these ports:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Display Port&#xD;&#xA; 2. HDMI&#xD;&#xA; 3. DVI&#xD;&#xA; 4. VGA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is easy to find inexpensive video cards that can do dual monitors at 1080p via all 3 of these ports: HDMI, DVI, and VGA. However, I can't find one that can do &quot;all of those ports **plus Display Port**&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is for a fleet of work computers. I just want to make sure that each one these computers has the flexibility to connect to what ever monitors are available at any given time I try to set them up (without using external adapters).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need low profile because the video card will be installed in these bottom two slots (which are smaller than a full size PC slots):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIB0k.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48249" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13456" RevisionGUID="a582c959-88e9-4525-a5f3-879cdbd59ae9" CreationDate="2020-05-12T14:51:12.713" UserId="1974" Text="Versatile Low Profile Video Card with Display Port, HDMI, DVI, and VGA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48250" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13456" RevisionGUID="a582c959-88e9-4525-a5f3-879cdbd59ae9" CreationDate="2020-05-12T14:51:12.713" UserId="1974" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48251" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13457" RevisionGUID="6b56a95c-0f3f-41c9-b550-bd02a6476c03" CreationDate="2020-05-12T15:32:45.687" UserId="9825" Text="The [Gigabyte GV-N105TOC-4GL][1] is only 37mm tall, it is specified as Low Profile, and includes   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.4&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D Dual-Link  &#xD;&#xA; - Two 2 HDMI 2.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could add an [HDMI-VGA adapter][2] for the VGA when needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N105TOC-4GL/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2VH-001M-00004?item=9SIA86V3E18207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48252" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13457" RevisionGUID="83562717-f219-47e4-acb7-588fab0a4d67" CreationDate="2020-05-12T15:41:42.017" UserId="9825" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="The [Gigabyte GV-N105TOC-4GL][1] is only 37mm tall, it is specified as Low Profile, and includes   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.4&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D Dual-Link  &#xD;&#xA; - Two 2 HDMI 2.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could add an [HDMI-VGA adapter][2] for the VGA when needed, or perhaps you could use the motherboard video port for VGA monitors in parallel with the add-in card; Gigabyte could advise, and their US number is +1-626-854-9338.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N105TOC-4GL/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2VH-001M-00004?item=9SIA86V3E18207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48253" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13458" RevisionGUID="119f5396-3dd1-4260-852a-342a3b17e0d1" CreationDate="2020-05-12T20:14:05.857" UserId="14483" Text="First of all, [VGA is analog and the rest are digital][1]. This limits somewhat your options because, in case of NVIDIA graphics cards, [the 900 series was the last one to support analog video through DVI-I][2]. According to [this reply][3], there are some old AMD cards that also support it and you also might be able to convert between Display Port and VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In other words, it is fairly easy to convert between digital connectors (DVI, HDMI) using a passive adapter. However, you need an active adapter to convert the signal between analog and digital, which are usually quite expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a result, [this is an example of a card that might suit you][4]: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - on the top, it has a DVI-D slot (digital only). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the bottom, it has (from left to right):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a Display Port&#xD;&#xA; - HDMI&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-I slot (analog and digital), which means that you can use [a cheap adapter][5] (they are usually included in the graphics card box) and connect your VGA cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apart from that, it looks like a low profile card (although &quot;low profile&quot; are usually considered the cards that occupy one slot and don't require external power), but I am not sure if it fits your case. You might want to take some measurements to be safe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; You might also have price and availability issues, as these card are a coupe generations old and you would probably only find them used. Since they are for a fleet of work computers as you say, the card than I linked above would probably be considered overkill.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-displayport-vs-dvi-vs-vga-which-connection-to-choose/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce#cite_ref-PCWorld_RIP_VGA_17-0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1022700-most-powerful-dvi-i-gpu/?tab=comments#comment-12203919&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Nvidia-DL-DVI-I-DVI-D-Graphics/dp/B01683DI74?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI-VGA-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000067SOH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="9b49e85b-53a0-4d15-8ed0-826f48a79f9a" CreationDate="2020-05-12T21:58:18.973" UserId="15781" Comment="oops just realize I got my gigabyte x board numbers mixed up, actual link to the actual board" Text="I have a machine with one of the [Gigabyte X299 boards][1], and the BIOS support for virtualization is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade of the BIOS to a 3.0 version so I could work with [Minikube][2] and it will only boot in recovery mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm contemplating upgrading the MB but I'm finding it very hard to find good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can folks recommend a Multi-GPU mainboard (supporting 2 more more NVIDIA GPUs, preferably with support for 4, w/ SLI) also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus, but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is an AMD 1950X Threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVMe drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128 GB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and windows, so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible. Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket. But trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48 GB currently).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X299-AORUS-Gaming-7-Pro-rev-10#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://kubernetes.io/docs/setup/learning-environment/minikube/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="b65a20bb-a4e9-46ef-aa0f-594b609aae62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:44:14.497" UserId="3714" Text="I am looking for a lightweight laptop cooling pad with no fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop provides sufficient cooling, but the problem is it does so by drawing air in from a large grill across the bottom of the unit.  As such, I feel like when I sit it on my lap or a similar surface like a bed, the fabric of my clothes or the blankets cover this grill and make it hard for sufficient airflow to enter, stressing the fans and make the laptop run hotter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have an old &quot;Cooler Master&quot; I found in my attic which sort of looks like this model, but is older:&#xD;&#xA;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81IOqBWTwcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this model is not being sold any more and is only available from scalpers for ridiculous prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old model I have is nice in that it is lightweight and has plenty of holes to let airflow through.  The back is also elevated which makes typing easier.  It does NOT have any fans, which is good because I don't want any.  However, it has two problems: one, it apparently is for a 13 inch laptop, so my 17&quot; model sticks substantially over the edges.  But the more annoying problem is that my model has two plastic feed on the back sides and nothing in between, which combined with the weight of my laptop becomes uncomfortable over time and even leaves large red marks on my legs despite wearing heavy denim pants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find something like shown in the above picture for a 17&quot; laptop, except without fans, and for a reasonable price (I'm guessing around $20 or so)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48256" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="b65a20bb-a4e9-46ef-aa0f-594b609aae62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:44:14.497" UserId="3714" Text="Laptop cooling pad with no fan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48257" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="b65a20bb-a4e9-46ef-aa0f-594b609aae62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:44:14.497" UserId="3714" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48258" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="b1db2007-a00f-4c45-bf73-d1fa7d891ef8" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:53:19.177" UserId="3714" Comment="edited title" Text="Laptop cooling pad with no fan for lap use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48259" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="666f8964-dfdc-4d99-a084-be6f7e21ccb3" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:59:57.270" UserId="3714" Comment="edited title" Text="I am looking for a lightweight laptop cooling pad with no fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop provides sufficient cooling, but the problem is it does so by drawing air in from a large grill across the bottom of the unit.  As such, I feel like when I sit it on my lap or a similar surface like a bed, the fabric of my clothes or the blankets cover this grill and make it hard for sufficient airflow to enter, stressing the fans and make the laptop run hotter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have an old &quot;Cooler Master&quot; I found in my attic which sort of looks like this model, but is older:&#xD;&#xA;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81IOqBWTwcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this model is not being sold any more and is only available from scalpers for ridiculous prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old model I have is nice in that it is lightweight and has plenty of holes to let airflow through.  The back is also elevated which makes typing easier.  It does NOT have any fans, which is good because I don't want any.  However, it has two problems: one, it apparently is for a 13 inch laptop, so my 17&quot; model sticks substantially over the edges.  But the more annoying problem is that my model has two plastic feed on the back sides and nothing in between, which combined with the weight of my laptop becomes uncomfortable over time and even leaves large red marks on my legs despite wearing heavy denim pants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a few pads which appear to be more like stands which adjust to insane angles.   As a result, they have these little things that stick out at the bottom to prevent the computer from falling out which can get in the way of typing a low angles.  I only want a shadow angle with two to three inches max height in the back, and nothing to get in my way when I try to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find something like shown in the above picture for a 17&quot; laptop, except without fans, and for a reasonable price (I'm guessing around $20 or so)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48260" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13460" RevisionGUID="e1f18442-f8f8-4cf3-9e7c-ea12ea4d3359" CreationDate="2020-05-13T09:04:16.417" UserId="14483" Text="Check some options that I found on Amazon, mostly from one brand - cooling pads without fans seem to be quite rare. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [Fellowes Laptop Riser, 13 1/4 x 9 3/8 x 4 1/4, White/Gray][1] (probably out of production as I can't find it on their website, but from a quick search, it seems that it supports laptops up to 17&quot;)&#xD;&#xA; - [Fellowes I-Spire Series Laptop Lift/Stand, Black (9472401)][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [CARNATION Laptop Stand Desk with Phone Stand and Cable Clip. Adjustable, Foldable &amp; Portable Riser. Fully Compatible MacBook Base Holder][3] (not sure about compatibility, in the reviews someone says it works for his 17&quot; Lenovo)&#xD;&#xA; - [AmazonBasics Ventilated Adjustable Laptop Computer Holder Desk Stand][4] (not sure I would recommend this, but has plenty of ratings to check)&#xD;&#xA; - [Fellowes I-Spire Series Laptop Lapdesk, Black (9473101)][5]&#xD;&#xA; - [Fellowes Designer Suites Laptop Riser, Black (8038401)][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Laptop-Riser-White-Gray/dp/B00FL2U8I6/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-I-Spire-Laptop-Stand-9472401/dp/B0114MSBO4&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Patented-Ventilated-Portable-Compatible/dp/B07K7P8BGP/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Soporte-ajustable-ventilado-port%C3%A1til/dp/B00WRDS8H0/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-I-Spire-Laptop-Lapdesk-9473101/dp/B0114MT9GI/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Designer-Suites-Laptop-8038401/dp/B001C8A7CA/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13463" RevisionGUID="5066b67f-14dc-4523-adeb-28c9cb706f62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T12:52:57.157" UserId="1410" Text="I tend to use [this sort of thing](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000041651.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;as non-volatile storage for Raspberry Pis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for something similar for the Raspberry Pi Zero, but that has a micro-USB connector:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been using a converter cable, but wondered if there is something that does not require a converter. The problem is the physical layout, as I will often want to connect a USB cable for power next to the USB socket for my NVM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a small, cheap, single-product solution?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uCVP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AsLKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48268" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13463" RevisionGUID="5066b67f-14dc-4523-adeb-28c9cb706f62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T12:52:57.157" UserId="1410" Text="Seeking small USB stick with micro USB connector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48269" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13463" RevisionGUID="5066b67f-14dc-4523-adeb-28c9cb706f62" CreationDate="2020-05-13T12:52:57.157" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="1dad5a85-4e4a-48a3-8853-8bd5cba34f74" CreationDate="2020-05-13T15:29:50.520" UserId="9825" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. [Data sheet][2] does not show dimensions, so you will need to contact them directly for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="81378dd5-e3eb-4a73-83d8-68d12b9bb34e" CreationDate="2020-05-13T15:43:04.207" UserId="9825" Comment="added 322 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions, since you need to connect power to the poer immediately to its left; my solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48278" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="18e952b1-f0f8-4f56-b49d-db74bf454323" CreationDate="2020-05-13T17:40:32.050" UserId="14139" Text="I would like to try to enable the passtrough of my graphic card (geforce rtx 2080 ti) on Windows server using the DDA. To do this,I need to buy another motherboard,because the one I have (gigabyte aorus pro) does not support the ACS. Problem is that I don't want to buy another CPU. I wanna do this for pleasure and for learning,I won't spend more than 200 euros. The CPU that I have now is Intel I9-9900k. So,to recap : I would like to  know if I can buy a motherboard which supports the ACS and the other other features needed to assign the graphic card to the guest OS but without changing the CPU that I have. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48279" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="18e952b1-f0f8-4f56-b49d-db74bf454323" CreationDate="2020-05-13T17:40:32.050" UserId="14139" Text="A motherboard which supports the Access Control Service for the desktop segment compatible with the cpu I9-9900k" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48280" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="18e952b1-f0f8-4f56-b49d-db74bf454323" CreationDate="2020-05-13T17:40:32.050" UserId="14139" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48283" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="7927cbfa-94fc-4a48-9031-269bbb8a9721" CreationDate="2020-05-13T19:27:30.047" UserId="9825" Comment="added 46 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions. Since you need to connect power to the MicroUSB Power Input port immediately to its right, if you need extra room, my solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48284" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="ab919acf-97da-420d-ba8a-6535d967e883" CreationDate="2020-05-13T19:42:19.617" UserId="9825" Comment="added 527 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Western Digital [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions. The [Raspberry Pi Zero mechanical specs][3] show a distance from the center of J1 to the center of J10 of 12.6mm. Since you need to connect power to the MicroUSB Power Input port **J1** [immediately to the right of the data port][4] **J10**, if you need extra room, my solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many more flash drives with Micro USB connectors, but all I found have the connector embedded in a wider case; every one had that 'shoulder' sticking out which may be problematic, given your need to connect power into the adjacent port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/mechanical/rpi_MECH_Zero_1p3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/homepage-9df4b/static/a85151428f1c32396e156de867cf14c6/a0db7/4825246be3d2abe20cb181129a209d8caddb4e91_raspberry-pi-zero-overhead-1-1748x1080.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="55bf8f23-86bf-4a0d-bec8-c31cc0b6a8b4" CreationDate="2020-05-13T20:55:55.353" UserId="9825" Comment="added 228 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I won't spend more than [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) motherboards support ACS and other features needed to assign the graphic card to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=q=Motherboard%20%22LGA1151%22&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48287" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="fe605474-4a77-4373-9b44-5847779daac8" CreationDate="2020-05-13T21:11:51.623" UserId="9825" Comment="added 240 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I won't spend more than [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) motherboards support ACS and other features needed to assign the graphic card to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48288" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="c4c2fa42-4bce-4adf-bb2a-8c11bcc97b84" CreationDate="2020-05-13T21:19:10.510" UserId="9825" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I won't spend more than [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) ATX-sized motherboards support ACS. VT-d, and APICv so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48289" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="c4c2fa42-4bce-4adf-bb2a-8c11bcc97b84" CreationDate="2020-05-13T21:19:10.510" UserId="9825" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="Need a desktop ATX LGA1151 motherboard with Access Control Service, VT-d, and APICv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="f1b0c272-f5f8-440b-81c2-e5e565833be9" CreationDate="2020-05-13T22:05:04.027" UserId="14139" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) ATX-sized motherboards support ACS. VT-d, and APICv so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48291" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="39c6d7f9-1bec-4099-8e5b-17be075819d6" CreationDate="2020-05-13T22:26:36.777" UserId="9825" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU and existing DDR4 memory, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) ATX-sized motherboards using DDR4 memory support ACS. VT-d, and APICv so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="00b697e1-f761-41f0-b8c3-3a7d1bf6c25a" CreationDate="2020-05-13T23:32:31.977" UserId="9825" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server (2019 preferred) using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU and existing DDR4 XMP non-ECC memory, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) ATX-sized motherboards using DDR4 memory support ACS. VT-d, and APICv so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48297" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="88153767-0064-41b3-9ce7-d89f98b7c116" CreationDate="2020-05-14T10:32:29.097" UserId="14139" Comment="added 12 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server (2019 preferred) using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, reusing my [i9-9900K][5] CPU and existing DDR4 XMP non-ECC memory, as this is for pleasure and for learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][6]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][7] (LGA 1151 Gen2) ATX-sized motherboards using DDR4 memory support ACS. VT-d, and APICv you suggest so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48329" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="f6f2033e-1302-4614-b521-dca492acdfb7" CreationDate="2020-05-14T16:45:13.503" UserId="9825" Comment="added 174 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Western Digital [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions. The [Raspberry Pi Zero mechanical specs][3] show a distance from the center of J1 to the center of J10 of 12.6mm. Since you need to connect power to the MicroUSB Power Input port **J1** [immediately to the right of the data port][4] **J10**, if you need extra room, my solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many more flash drives with Micro USB connectors, such as this [locally stocked WalMart item][5] made by SanDisk, but all I found have the connector embedded in a wider case; every one had that 'shoulder' sticking out which may be problematic, given your need to connect power into the adjacent port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/mechanical/rpi_MECH_Zero_1p3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/homepage-9df4b/static/a85151428f1c32396e156de867cf14c6/a0db7/4825246be3d2abe20cb181129a209d8caddb4e91_raspberry-pi-zero-overhead-1-1748x1080.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/SanDisk-32GB-Ultra-Dual-Drive-USB-3-0-Flash-Drive-SDDD2-032G-AW46/45734133&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48330" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13256" RevisionGUID="c7dfb629-31b0-4aeb-9478-b94e4278f589" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:03:05.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="fbd109b6-e0a7-4982-b0fc-b638302e051e" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:07:06.447" UserId="9825" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="I want to enable the passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server (2019 preferred) using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4] ([more on ACS][5]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning, and want to reuse my [i9-9900K][6] CPU and existing DDR4 XMP non-ECC memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][8] (LGA 1151 Gen2) motherboards using DDR4 memory support ACS. VT-d, and APICv (so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS) do  you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://books.google.com/books?id=1SnVDgAAQBAJ&amp;pg=PT182&amp;lpg=PT182&amp;dq=%22Windows%20Server%22%20%22Access%20Control%20Service%22%20-Azure&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=_dRe1Fw0wb&amp;sig=ACfU3U2ng5tdxeln4uJI4Rhc_wu3wdgrmg&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjR0fX467PpAhWLv54KHVddAzgQ6AEwCHoECGEQAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=%22Windows%20Server%22%20%22Access%20Control%20Service%22%20-Azure&amp;f=false&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48332" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="fbd109b6-e0a7-4982-b0fc-b638302e051e" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:07:06.447" UserId="9825" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="Need desktop LGA1151 motherboard w/ Windows Server Access Control Service, VT-d, &amp; APICv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13418" RevisionGUID="7d0df1dd-bd27-465f-a899-70260962df4c" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:14:35.450" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 24 characters in body" Text="My PC only has USB-A ports. I want a hub which I can connect (so it needs USB-A connection) and which provides both USB-A and USB-C ports. I do not need any of the fancy optional features USB-C can provide like Thunderbolt, DisplayPort or high power output, just plain USB 3 will do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only devices I could find so far are of the *Docking Station* category with a very steep price tag. All the normal hubs I found with USB-C ports have a USB-C uplink connection as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The lack of such a device made me wonder, if there might be a technical (or legal) reason that such a device cannot exist." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48334" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="e6357578-2a21-4764-b9c2-a6bcf15f477a" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:17:47.897" UserId="9825" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="I have an oscilloscope which measures voltage changes up to 10 Mhz analog bandwidth. My existing 30-winding search coil shows 570kHz *everywhere*, so I need a better probe to use with that oscilloscope.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to measure magnetic field exposure at some workstations. I don't have to fulfill TCO, I only want to compare the relative measurements.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should integrate all 3 axes, so I don't have to be cautious about its orientation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13410" RevisionGUID="8a11ff25-326a-4fb5-90bd-90ce9f8ed13b" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:26:16.743" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 63 characters in body" Text="It has been years since most TV boxes support HDMI 2.0 4K60, but PCs with integrated GPU still doesn't support this well. In most cases, the chipsets support it, but the motherboard doesn't.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A problem of 4K30 is higher latency, which 4K60 solves. A problem of FHD is the image is not as sharp as 4K, and looks horrible on some TVs that do image processing (e.g. sharpness improvement) on non-native resolutions which may benefit videos, but will make a desktop image awful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I need a DIY motherboard CPU with integrated CPU/GPU supporting RGB 4K60 over HDMI 2.0 and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Is a new platform that support DDR4 3000+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Is low power, but not low performance (like the Intel Celeron N3150, for which running VM is real pain).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) (Optional) PCIe*8+ slots for expansion (PCIe*1 is always there).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(4) A mainstream-priced motherboard from top vendors is preferred.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48336" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13399" RevisionGUID="e7c59347-bf7d-4a9c-95a3-573530f8bf2a" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:29:32.460" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 22 characters in body" Text="I work in the corner of a sunny office, with four large windows close behind me. Normally it's fine but sometimes,  depending on the sun's position, unpleasant glare is visible on my screen (see photo below). That's especially annoying as I mostly use dark-themed IDEs for programming. I can close the blinds, but then I feel like I work in a basement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a better display, and the glaring problem is my main criteria for choosing it. Since it's for the office, not gaming, I don't care about reaction time or refreshing rate.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current monitor is 24&quot; and I think 27&quot; should be a bit better, but I don't think I need anything bigger. It would be nice if the monitor will be cheaper than 500$, but I can make an exception if it will be really good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![photo showing glare][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mVDR.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13398" RevisionGUID="bd8912ff-9c45-42c1-a2b8-eed001d911e3" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:31:11.547" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="I need to replace the remote control of my Samsung UN50KU6300 TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main priority is too find a remote that works like the original did, in that, the remote would work without line of sight with the TV. For example, the remote could be underneath a blanket and it would still control the TV without difficultly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Base on this, what technology does the original remote use (so I can specify that in my searches for a replacement)? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm discovering remotes that claim compatibility, but I'm worried that they won't work the same as the original in terms of the priorities I've discussed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pic of original remote][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update:** I ultimately purchased [remote model BN59-01242A][2]. I'll report back with another update after it arrives and I see if it works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzsXG.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/0X6-04KT-0M0V1?Item=9SIADBSAYC9756" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="29fdb99b-f1cc-4ead-86d5-eac82a885861" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:36:15.470" UserId="9825" Comment="added 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="My desktop has an `i3-4130` along with `4 GB RAM` and no dedicated graphics card. &#xD;&#xA; I am about to get a laptop, and want to evaluate these three:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Acer Predator Helios 300** - `Core i7-9750, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus Zenbook Duo**         - `Core i7-10510U, 16 GB RAM (DDR3), 1 TB SSD, 2 GB GeForce MX250`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Asus TUF Gaming A15**      - `AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*[There's some uncertainity in models of A15]*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm just a student but I like programming so I do use Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, PyCharm, and some other IDEs which require less resources than how much Android Studio does.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sometimes I need to create my own assets for my application, so I use PhotoShop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do make some videos for YouTube and I wish to use Adobe After Effects which I have actually used once on my desktop and as you will expect it ofcourse took my an hour to render a short video. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Each of the above laptop have some attributes that I like but are confusing me.&#xD;&#xA;My first preference is the Predator Helios 300 for sure, except it's battery but this is acceptable because it's just powerful.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Actual confusion arises due to Asus A15 which is launched recently (yet to be launched in India) because the processor as per I've heard is faster than the `i7`. But again, some people said me that I should go for Intel because it's reliable. I don't know if AMD lasts less than Intel. Should be a Myth just like when people compare Snapdragon and Mediatek. *[Asus TUF Gaming F15 has Intel Intel® Core™ i7 10750H but looks like this one will take a long time to arrive especially in India]*  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Also A15 has a plastic build with 3 heat sinks while Predator is all metal with 4 heat sinks.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Coming to the last one,  I definitely wanted the Zenbook Duo for its second screen which indeed is very useful. But, it has `DDR3 RAM`, weaker graphics, and only 2GB of video RAM. It does have a 10th Generation i7, but it is labelled `U`, meaning it is low powered.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have mentioned earlier I need to use After Effects so I can drop idea of getting the Zenbook Duo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[*Zenbook PRO Duo is way too much expensive than these 3 so that's not an option for me*]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TUF Gaming A15 is available with 90Wh battery which could be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;There isn't much difference else. But plastic body, can it be less rigid than Predator? That's why I'm confused else Predator is a good choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The aggressive gaming style of laptop won't be a problem; the Predator looks nothing less than a beast. I would be mostly home and wrapped around that charger, but even if I'm out, the  Predator gives at least 2-3 hours of battery life [on light tasks, anyways won't be gaming outside of course] so shouldn't be an issue.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which one should I go for? All these laptops are in price range of around `1300-1500 USD [1 - 1.20 lakh INR]`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I hope it won't affect the performance if the laptop was released 1 year. The Predator, was launched in April 2019." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48339" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13377" RevisionGUID="29fdb99b-f1cc-4ead-86d5-eac82a885861" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:36:15.470" UserId="9825" Comment="added 30 characters in body; edited title" Text="Which of the mentioned laptops should be better for my needs?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13474" RevisionGUID="83133ff8-6a9e-4e42-89ee-d2cf7ddabe8f" CreationDate="2020-05-14T18:21:09.663" UserId="9825" Text="Gigabyte TS replied and suggested their [ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING][1] which is [US$190][2], but is not available right now at NewEggUK. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See https://pastebin.com/SZw4Rfw0 for their suggestion and contact information. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would make sure to contact Gigabyte yourself and confirm this product meets all of your specifications, and make sure your vendor will accept a no charge return if it does not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z390-H-GAMING/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z390-h-gaming/p/N82E16813119158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="cfa23e4f-dbb4-40a2-846e-40c777b4101e" CreationDate="2020-05-14T18:25:52.730" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Western Digital [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions. The [Raspberry Pi Zero mechanical specs][3] show a distance from the center of J1 to the center of J10 of 12.6mm. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Pic of Raspberry Pi Zero showing J1 and J10 at bottom right][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you need to connect power to the MicroUSB Power Input port **J1** [immediately to the right of the data port][5] **J10**, if you need extra room, my solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many more flash drives with Micro USB connectors, such as this SanDisk SDDD2-032G-AW46, a [locally stocked WalMart item][6] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Sandisk SDDD2-032G-AW46[6]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but all I found have the connector embedded in a wider case; every one had that 'shoulder' sticking out which may be problematic, given your need to connect power into the adjacent port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/mechanical/rpi_MECH_Zero_1p3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NA4GN.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/homepage-9df4b/static/a85151428f1c32396e156de867cf14c6/a0db7/4825246be3d2abe20cb181129a209d8caddb4e91_raspberry-pi-zero-overhead-1-1748x1080.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/SanDisk-32GB-Ultra-Dual-Drive-USB-3-0-Flash-Drive-SDDD2-032G-AW46/45734133&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWSpY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13464" RevisionGUID="7bd4673a-4fcd-4ab7-a6fb-4f4a9bed6f80" CreationDate="2020-05-14T18:31:29.470" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="[Western Digital][1] has a line of these. The 16 GB version sells for $7 in their store, the 128GB version sells for $20, and the 256GB version is $37. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Western Digital [data sheet][2] does not show dimensions. The [Raspberry Pi Zero mechanical specs][3] show a distance of 12.6mm, from the center of J1 to the center of J10, both to the right side of the board's bottom edge. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Pic of Raspberry Pi Zero showing J1 and J10 at bottom right][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you need to connect power to the MicroUSB Power Input port **J1**  immediately to the right of the data port **J10**, you may need extra room.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My solution would be to use a Dremel-like rotary tool to remove its dark grey shoulder from the side adjacent to the power connector, along the orange line in the photo below, if you need more room. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many more flash drives with Micro USB connectors, such as this SanDisk SDDD2-032G-AW46, a [locally stocked WalMart item][6] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![Sandisk SDDD2-032G-AW46[6]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;but all I found have the connector embedded in a wider case; every one had that 'shoulder' sticking out which may be problematic, given your need to connect power into the adjacent port. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Western Digital MicroUSB flash drive][8]][8]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/usb-flash/ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb/data-sheet-ultra-dual-drive-m30-usb-3-0-micro-usb.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/mechanical/rpi_MECH_Zero_1p3.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NA4GN.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/homepage-9df4b/static/a85151428f1c32396e156de867cf14c6/a0db7/4825246be3d2abe20cb181129a209d8caddb4e91_raspberry-pi-zero-overhead-1-1748x1080.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.walmart.com/ip/SanDisk-32GB-Ultra-Dual-Drive-USB-3-0-Flash-Drive-SDDD2-032G-AW46/45734133&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWSpY.png&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxCag.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48344" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="ba8f1c8e-2e82-481f-ba50-780d8ecee161" CreationDate="2020-05-14T19:03:25.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13475" RevisionGUID="032ddc87-86e5-4915-93ac-9af32e64665a" CreationDate="2020-05-14T20:09:13.110" UserId="15823" Text="I could use a little advice on my next computer purchase from a few Apple consumers who have had some hands-on experience with some of Apple's latest products. I have some financing available to me to purchase a new computer in the coming weeks or months. However, personally, rather than buying the shiniest new thing with all of the bells and whistles, I endeavor to make a purchase that meets my personal/professional needs and is, to some degree, financially responsible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**About me now.**&#xD;&#xA;-----------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That said, a little about me. I am a web developer and graphic designer by trade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a web developer, I currently use a &quot;Local (by Flywheel)&quot; setup for local development to run PHP driven projects that are primarily front-end heavy. Atom as my text editor. I do notice a bit of lag when running BrowserSync, Chrome, and with iCloud file-sharing enabled on both computers so I've managed to increase their lives by turning off iCloud file-sharing and keeping things locally backed up to a few external hard-drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a designer, I run a myriad of Adobe products via the Adobe Creative Cloud Suite which also tends to hog resources, especially when running any of this software in parallel with my local development solution. I also use Sketch from time to time which seems to work much better, but I still need both for my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most everything else I do is on the web. Just about every other App I use for work works great, so I have no real issues there and personally, I don't play many games. At most, I might watch some video for continued learning/instruction.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**About my current setup.**&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have both a Mac mini and a Macbook Air. I'll list out their specs below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With my Mac mini I use two external monitors (on monitor arms) that I plan on continuing to use. One is true HD, and the other is 4k. With my Macbook Air, I typically do not use an external display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Mac mini (Late 2014)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2.8 GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i5 &#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1 TB Fusion Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Iris 1536 MB Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Macbook Air (13-inch, Early 2015)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1.6 GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i5&#xD;&#xA; - 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 250 GB SSD Drive&#xD;&#xA; - Intel HD Graphics 6000 1536 MB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**What I want in a setup.**&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can probably spend around $3,500.00 bucks for hardware, the included software, and the additional AppleCare+ extended warranty. This computer will need to last me as long as the two I have now which have lasted around 5 to 6 years. I am also going to be nixing the approach of having two computers (one mobile for working in the office or at a coffee shop, one stationary at home) and using just one computer which I'm hoping is a laptop that can support my two external monitors and just dock at my standing desk when I'm at home. I'm tired of backing up multiple computers and keeping files/settings consistent between them. I am also going to be utilizing some new workflow using Docker to add some flexibility to what I do, and I hear that Docker can suck resources at times (if you can add any advice on this, please do).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of that said, I'm trying to decide between a new custom-configured 2020 Macbook Air or a Macbook Pro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the specs on those:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Custom-config'd Macbook Air, $2,249 before taxes and AppleCare+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1.2 GHz quad-core 10th gen Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 16 GB 3733 MHz LPDDR4X RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 2 TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Iris Plus graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Custom-config'd 13&quot; Macbook Pro, $2,999 before taxes and AppleCare+**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 2.3 GHz quad-core 10th gen Intel Core i7&#xD;&#xA; - 32 GB 3733 MHz LPDDR4X RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 2 TB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the end of the day I'm only saving about $750 between the two, but that's $750 I could do a lot of other things with, so I just want to make sure that when I'm paying for the Macbook Pro, I'm getting something that is necessary and packs a punch to my workflow, otherwise (to me) it's just a bell or a whistle I don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Again, just looking for a personal take from someone who might own either of these and be willing to shed some light. YouTube has a lot of videos comparing them, but those are just hardware specs, I'm asking you from the stand-point of personal experience as a developer whether owning one over the other has benefited you directly in some way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48346" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13475" RevisionGUID="032ddc87-86e5-4915-93ac-9af32e64665a" CreationDate="2020-05-14T20:09:13.110" UserId="15823" Text="Looking for a good recommendation for an economic Apple product based on my personal usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48347" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13475" RevisionGUID="032ddc87-86e5-4915-93ac-9af32e64665a" CreationDate="2020-05-14T20:09:13.110" UserId="15823" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;apple&gt;&lt;osx&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48353" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13477" RevisionGUID="06f5542c-fcbd-440e-ab65-7a6afacad6cc" CreationDate="2020-05-14T21:32:51.050" UserId="527" Text="I rarely need to print, but when I do, I need the output right away (within 5 minutes).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I typically print 0-5 pages per month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any type of printer that would suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Size.  The smaller the better.  Something portable that I could take out of a drawer when I need to print would be great, but that's not a requirement.  But given that I'm rarely going to use it, I don't want it occupying a large amount of space.&#xD;&#xA;  2. Reliability.  When I need to print, I need to print.  I don't want to be dealing with clogged heads or anything like that.&#xD;&#xA;  3. Cost.  Since I'm just printing 0-5 pages per month, it's hard to justify spending much money on this.  I would like to keep the cost per black and white page down below $0.20 if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I only care a little about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Color.  It would be nice, but definitely not required.  Even just a single accent color would be a plus.  But again, not required.  I own a red pen, a ruler, and four colors of highlighters. ;)&#xD;&#xA;  2. WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity.  One of these would be really nice, but not required.  Otherwise, USB will suffice.&#xD;&#xA;  3. Print quality.  It doesn't need to be publishing quality.  It just needs to be legible and reasonably clear.  I think even 150dpi will be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Speed. As long as a black and white page can print in under 5 minutes, that's fine.&#xD;&#xA;  2. Duplex.  Single-sided is fine.&#xD;&#xA;  3. Paper feeder.  I don't mind feeding one sheet of blank paper at a time.&#xD;&#xA;  4. Noise.  Wake the dogs.  Wake the neighbors.  Wake the neighbor's dogs.  That's all fine.&#xD;&#xA;  5. Accommodating various paper sizes.  As long as it can print on letter-sized paper (A4 or 8.5&quot;x11&quot;), that's fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything out there that might be suitable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48354" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13477" RevisionGUID="06f5542c-fcbd-440e-ab65-7a6afacad6cc" CreationDate="2020-05-14T21:32:51.050" UserId="527" Text="Small low-cost printer for occasional use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48355" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13477" RevisionGUID="06f5542c-fcbd-440e-ab65-7a6afacad6cc" CreationDate="2020-05-14T21:32:51.050" UserId="527" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48356" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13477" RevisionGUID="46394f91-8f0d-4a33-9812-ab9a91c2fefb" CreationDate="2020-05-14T21:37:37.377" UserId="9825" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I rarely need to print, but when I do, I need the output right away (within 5 minutes).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I typically print 0-5 pages per month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any type of printer that would suit my needs?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  1. Size.  The smaller the better.  Something portable that I could take out of a drawer when I need to print would be great, but that's not a requirement.  But given that I'm rarely going to use it, I don't want it occupying a large amount of space.&#xD;&#xA;  2. Reliability.  When I need to print, I need to print.  I don't want to be dealing with clogged heads or anything like that.&#xD;&#xA;  3. Cost.  Since I'm just printing 0-5 pages per month, it's hard to justify spending much money on this.  I would like to keep the cost per black and white page down below $0.20 if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I only care a little about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  4. Color.  It would be nice, but definitely not required.  Even just a single accent color would be a plus.  But again, not required.  I own a red pen, a ruler, and four colors of highlighters. ;)&#xD;&#xA;  5. WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity.  One of these would be really nice, but not required.  Otherwise, USB will suffice.&#xD;&#xA;  6. Print quality.  It doesn't need to be publishing quality.  It just needs to be legible and reasonably clear.  I think even 150dpi will be sufficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I don't care about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  7. Speed. As long as a black and white page can print in under 5 minutes, that's fine.&#xD;&#xA;  8. Duplex.  Single-sided is fine.&#xD;&#xA;  9. Paper feeder.  I don't mind feeding one sheet of blank paper at a time.&#xD;&#xA;  10. Noise.  Wake the dogs.  Wake the neighbors.  Wake the neighbor's dogs.  That's all fine.&#xD;&#xA;  11. Accommodating various paper sizes.  As long as it can print on letter-sized paper (A4 or 8.5&quot;x11&quot;), that's fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there anything out there that might be suitable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13478" RevisionGUID="fe22b199-8aef-4854-b3ba-4e27033885f9" CreationDate="2020-05-14T22:00:15.697" UserId="9825" Text="1. *Size. The smaller the better...* This means ink jet or the equivalent; every other technology makes the printer significantly bigger. A [review of the best portable printers][1] shows hardware costs for portable A4/8.5x11&quot; printers much higher than non-portable printers; you can get a [good laser printer for US$73 FOB US Destination][2]. Will you sacrifice size to keep the cost down? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. *Reliability.* Ink jet printer heads clog when infrequently used, and the unclogging cycle of HP printers use a lot of ink to clear the heads as well as taking several minutes. Many HP ink jet printers nowadays will fail to print if one color is out or low, even if the black ink supply is OK. Reliability means not getting an ink jet printer. Reliability means a laser printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. *Cost. Since I'm just printing 0-5 pages per month, it's hard to justify spending much money on this. I would like to keep the cost per black and white page down below $0.20 if possible.* Easily done with an inexpensive laser printer. Inexpensive Brother printers cost around 2.2 cents/page in toner, less if you do not insist on Brother-branded toner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I only care a little about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. *Color. It would be nice, but definitely not required. Even just a single accent color would be a plus. But again, not required. I own a red pen, a ruler, and four colors of highlighters. ;)*  Any ink jet printer on the market today that has any color to it is a four-ink machine; there are none with just one accent color.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-portable-printers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/3951781603092661587?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=674&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00tTty175Y1Asf6toZWhOq03DL5fg:1589493346957&amp;q=brother%20monochrome%20laser&amp;prds=epd:952448585312085553,prmr:1&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjEz--XrLTpAhXT3J4KHVBUBEIQ8wIIlhA" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48358" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13478" RevisionGUID="f3ebc076-afd1-4f65-b001-1f1899091d1b" CreationDate="2020-05-14T22:25:39.473" UserId="9825" Comment="added 401 characters in body" Text="1. *Size. The smaller the better...* This means ink jet or the equivalent; every other technology makes the printer significantly bigger. A [review of the best portable printers][1] shows hardware costs for portable A4/8.5x11&quot; printers much higher than non-portable printers; you can get a [good laser printer for US$73 FOB US Destination][2]. Will you sacrifice size to keep the cost down? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. *Reliability.* Ink jet printer heads clog when infrequently used, and the unclogging cycle of HP printers use a lot of ink to clear the heads as well as taking several minutes. Many HP ink jet printers nowadays will fail to print if one color is out or low, even if the black ink supply is OK. Reliability means not getting an ink jet printer. Reliability means a laser printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. *Cost. Since I'm just printing 0-5 pages per month, it's hard to justify spending much money on this. I would like to keep the cost per black and white page down below $0.20 if possible.* Easily done with an inexpensive laser printer. Inexpensive Brother printers cost around 2.2 cents/page in toner, less if you do not insist on Brother-branded toner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I only care a little about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. *Color. It would be nice, but definitely not required. Even just a single accent color would be a plus. But again, not required. I own a red pen, a ruler, and four colors of highlighters. ;)*  Any printer on the market today that has any color to it is a four-ink machine; there are none with just one accent color.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. *WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity.  One of these would be really nice, but not required.  Otherwise, USB will suffice.* The [recommended Brother][2] has both WiFi &amp; USB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. *Print quality.  It doesn't need to be publishing quality.  It just needs to be legible and reasonably clear.  I think even 150dpi will be sufficient.* Recommended choice works at 600 dpi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: A [good review of the small Brother printers][3] led me to get one half a year ago, and I'm very happy with it, after four decades of increasingly fussy HP inkjets. [These toners from Amazon][4] drop the per-page toner cost to under 1p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-portable-printers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/3951781603092661587?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=674&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00tTty175Y1Asf6toZWhOq03DL5fg:1589493346957&amp;q=brother%20monochrome%20laser&amp;prds=epd:952448585312085553,prmr:1&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjEz--XrLTpAhXT3J4KHVBUBEIQ8wIIlhA&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://boingboing.net/2017/03/14/very-cheap-laser-printer-toner.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48359" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13478" RevisionGUID="7ffa913d-488c-4c6b-84fe-0c369793ffd7" CreationDate="2020-05-14T22:33:44.370" UserId="9825" Comment="added 401 characters in body" Text="1. *Size. The smaller the better...* This means ink jet or the equivalent; every other technology makes the printer significantly bigger. A [review of the best portable printers][1] shows hardware costs for portable A4/8.5x11&quot; printers much higher than non-portable printers; you can get a [good laser printer for US$73 FOB US Destination][2] [(more detail)][3] that's only 14&quot; square by 7 1/4&quot; tall. Will you sacrifice size to keep the cost down? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. *Reliability.* Ink jet printer heads clog when infrequently used, and the unclogging cycle of HP printers use a lot of ink to clear the heads as well as taking several minutes. Many HP ink jet printers nowadays will fail to print if one color is out or low, even if the black ink supply is OK. Reliability means not getting an ink jet printer. Reliability means a laser printer. The Brother printers are the PC Magazine Buyer's Choice for the last decade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. *Cost. Since I'm just printing 0-5 pages per month, it's hard to justify spending much money on this. I would like to keep the cost per black and white page down below $0.20 if possible.* Easily done with an inexpensive laser printer. Inexpensive Brother printers cost around 2.2 cents/page in toner, [less if you do not insist on Brother-branded toner][5].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I only care a little about:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. *Color. It would be nice, but definitely not required. Even just a single accent color would be a plus. But again, not required. I own a red pen, a ruler, and four colors of highlighters. ;)*  Any printer on the market today that has any color to it is a four-ink machine; there are none with just one accent color.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. *WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity.  One of these would be really nice, but not required.  Otherwise, USB will suffice.* The [recommended Brother][2] has both USB; the next step up in their line adds WiFi &amp; wired Ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. *Print quality.  It doesn't need to be publishing quality.  It just needs to be legible and reasonably clear.  I think even 150dpi will be sufficient.* Recommended choice works at 600x2400 dpi. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: A [good review of the small Brother printers][4] led me to get one half a year ago, and I'm very happy with it, after four decades of increasingly fussy HP inkjets. [These toners from Amazon][5] drop the per-page toner cost to under 1p. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-portable-printers&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/3951781603092661587?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=674&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00tTty175Y1Asf6toZWhOq03DL5fg:1589493346957&amp;q=brother%20monochrome%20laser&amp;prds=epd:952448585312085553,prmr:1&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjEz--XrLTpAhXT3J4KHVBUBEIQ8wIIlhA&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.brother-usa.com/products/hll2320d#specification&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://boingboing.net/2019/06/18/cheap-wireless-laser-printer-w.html&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://boingboing.net/2017/03/14/very-cheap-laser-printer-toner.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48360" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13479" RevisionGUID="2f2468f9-d1fc-4c1a-af31-33853b0b94c8" CreationDate="2020-05-15T03:46:21.873" UserId="15576" Text="I have a desktop 3.5&quot; HDD and a desktop DVD drive.&#xA;I also have the SMPS (power supply) and all the power cables.&#xA;Also, I have the internal SATA cables with me.&#xA;All these parts are taken out of my old desktop (threw away the RAM, Processor and mother board).&#xA;HDD and DVD drive were upgraded and branded so didn't throw them away.&#xA;&#xA;I intend to use the HDD and DVD drive externally with my laptop now either via eSATA port or USB 3.0 port.&#xA;&#xA;I tried to search on the internet to find a SATA to eSATA / USB 3.0 WITHOUT power (as I have the power supply and setup with me already, as mentioned above I have the SMPS and all the required power cables). All the results have power included which I don't need.&#xA;&#xA;Question: Can anyone point me with a good SATA to eSATA / USB 3.0 cable/converter WITHOUT power? Or any other solution.&#xA;&#xA;I am in India." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48361" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13479" RevisionGUID="2f2468f9-d1fc-4c1a-af31-33853b0b94c8" CreationDate="2020-05-15T03:46:21.873" UserId="15576" Text="Need pointers for SATA to USB 3.0 / eSATA cable or converter WITHOUT power supply" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48362" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13479" RevisionGUID="2f2468f9-d1fc-4c1a-af31-33853b0b94c8" CreationDate="2020-05-15T03:46:21.873" UserId="15576" Text="&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="937e30b8-c218-4d9f-8b46-1112c6138662" CreationDate="2020-05-15T08:16:01.443" UserId="15799" Comment="added 167 characters in body" Text="I am on the market for a new machine to employ mainly for work and other minor stuff like browsing, Netflix, Skype. I work in economics research, therefore I need to easily work with reasonably big datasets (say, ~25Gb of data) and pure, brute computational power for simulations, model estimation, some light machine learning task. I write codes mainly in R/Python/Julia/Matlab/Stata languages, plus LaTeX for writing presentations and articles. I can get some discount on Dell machines through my Uni, which restricts the options to basically two alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - XPS 13, fully spec'ed (i7 10th gen, 16 Gb RAM, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA; - Latitude 7400, fully spec'ed (i7 8th gen, 16 Gb RAM expansible, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both machines fit the portability requirement, as I can also work at a conference without carrying around a stone slate and the after discount prices are close enough (&lt;1500€). Here comes my question then: which one should I favour, knowing my work needs? As of now, ports and expansible RAM on the Latitude are an advantage that comes at the cost of separated AC port and thickness, while the XPS has fewer ports, RAM is soldered but has more portability and is powered via USB C (one less charger to carry around)?&#xD;&#xA;Please note that when I am at office I usually use a second screen if that helps in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit: 15&quot; would be ok but are usually much more pricier and less portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit II: got in touch with Dell's Sales, the Latitude 7400 *can* be powered by a USB-C charger (so a dock station can work, too) and not only with the barrel plug." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48364" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13479" RevisionGUID="bb938b43-fdcd-4fe6-8a79-ba6a0c988839" CreationDate="2020-05-15T08:26:56.127" UserId="15576" Comment="improved question" Text="I have a desktop 3.5&quot; HDD and a desktop DVD drive.&#xD;&#xA;I also have the SMPS/power supply and all the power cables with me.&#xD;&#xA;Also, I have the internal SATA cables with me.&#xD;&#xA;All these parts are taken out of my old desktop (I threw away the RAM, Processor and Motherboard).&#xD;&#xA;I had upgraded the HDD and DVD drive, so I didn't throw them away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I intend to use the HDD and DVD drive externally with my new laptop either via eSATA port or USB 3.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on the internet to find a SATA to eSATA/USB 3.0 converter WITHOUT power (as I have the power supply and wires already with me, as mentioned above I have the SMPS and all the required power cables). All the internet search results for the converter have power supply also included, which I don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question: Can anyone point me with a good SATA to eSATA/USB cable/converter WITHOUT power? Or any other solution.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am in India." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48376" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13482" RevisionGUID="66d22636-d5a2-4f88-9faa-3a874e5f9b47" CreationDate="2020-05-15T16:02:24.600" UserId="9825" Text="A desktop-style ATX-type SMPS/PSU/power supply (whatever you want to call it) will not deliver power if it does not sense a motherboard, unless you acquire a diagnostic test adapter for it, to imitate the circuitry of a motherboard.  Pre-ATX power supplies would, but those are a long, long time gone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless your laptop has a dedicated eSATA port, let's confine our search to USB, the popular and practical interface solution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you need to power the drives from the laptop over USB, and mount each in an enclosure. Fortunately, those are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to use.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot;/2.5&quot; SATA HDD adapter][2], and a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot; SATA adapter suitable for optical drives][3].  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32912318977.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sabrent.com/product/EC-DFLT/usb-3-0-sata-external-hard-drive-lay-flat-docking-station-2-5-3-5in-hdd-ssd/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/usb-3-slimline-sata-optical-drive-enclosure~SLSODDU33B" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13482" RevisionGUID="26aba5f6-57a6-4bb2-a661-cbfc01f534cc" CreationDate="2020-05-15T16:08:28.250" UserId="9825" Comment="added 191 characters in body" Text="A desktop-style ATX-type SMPS/PSU/power supply (whatever you want to call it) will not deliver power if it does not sense a motherboard, unless you acquire a diagnostic test adapter for it, to imitate the circuitry of a motherboard.  Pre-ATX power supplies would, but those are a long, long time gone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless your laptop has a dedicated eSATA port, let's confine our search to USB, the popular and practical interface solution. If it does, please provide the make and model part number (from the serial number sticker) of the laptop for compatibility verification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you need to power the drives from the laptop over USB, and mount each in an enclosure. Fortunately, those are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to use.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot;/2.5&quot; SATA HDD adapter][1] ([Indian vendor][2]), and a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot; SATA adapter suitable for optical drives][3] ([Indian vendor][4]).  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sabrent.com/product/EC-DFLT/usb-3-0-sata-external-hard-drive-lay-flat-docking-station-2-5-3-5in-hdd-ssd/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/usb-3-slimline-sata-optical-drive-enclosure~SLSODDU33B&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.in/StarTech-com-Slimline-Enclosure-Aluminum-SLSODDU33B/dp/B00VO7VOUI/ref=sr_1_1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13482" RevisionGUID="8a3b3a63-fb17-4ec9-b7cb-f4e6c1924679" CreationDate="2020-05-15T16:22:09.630" UserId="9825" Comment="added 119 characters in body" Text="A desktop-style ATX-type SMPS/PSU/power supply (whatever you want to call it) will not deliver power if it does not sense a motherboard, unless you acquire a diagnostic test adapter for it, to imitate the circuitry of a motherboard.  Pre-ATX power supplies would, but those are a long, long time gone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless your laptop has a dedicated eSATA port, let's confine our search to USB, the popular and practical interface solution. If it does, please provide the make and model part number (from the serial number sticker) of the laptop for compatibility verification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you need to power the drives from the laptop over USB, and mount each in an enclosure. Fortunately, those are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to use.  They also avoid the need to add a diagnostic tester to the power supply, relieving you of that cost and inconvenience. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot;/2.5&quot; SATA HDD adapter][1] ([Indian vendor][2]), and a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot; SATA adapter suitable for optical drives][3] ([Indian vendor][4]).  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sabrent.com/product/EC-DFLT/usb-3-0-sata-external-hard-drive-lay-flat-docking-station-2-5-3-5in-hdd-ssd/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/usb-3-slimline-sata-optical-drive-enclosure~SLSODDU33B&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.in/StarTech-com-Slimline-Enclosure-Aluminum-SLSODDU33B/dp/B00VO7VOUI/ref=sr_1_1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="73c5a6cd-3868-4888-a5ce-6d4ab26f386f" CreationDate="2020-05-15T19:10:36.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48383" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="50863bc1-66ce-4a73-862e-74d4f0b59727" CreationDate="2020-05-15T22:02:05.190" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48390" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="18b0e53a-a162-4151-bb55-b3d86030fc42" CreationDate="2020-05-16T00:05:55.653" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48391" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10010" RevisionGUID="145a2cbd-4a36-48ae-93e3-4f0ab9fe37af" CreationDate="2020-05-16T01:03:55.543" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48395" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="dd25de52-e5d0-48b0-b533-40f5f192c776" CreationDate="2020-05-16T05:51:00.807" UserId="9543" Text="I'm going to be entering as a freshman Computer Engineering major next school year and am beginning to shop around for laptops to replace my [Asus F510UA][1] laptop which has been getting me through high school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan on using my new laptop for computer programming, CAD, and schoolwork (*likely with VMs*), medium-light gaming (*e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships*), and note-taking in school lectures once I get to my campus. I'm not on a tight budget, but also don't want to be spending any more than $1500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something I've been missing in my ~$500 ASUS high school laptop is battery life; it's rare I have more than 1.5-2 hrs away from the wall at medium brightness and a normal workload before I have to charge. I'm in the market for something which can last a fair bit longer than this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recently been looking into possibly getting the [ASUS TUF 505DU-MB74][2] laptop because of its nice-looking mix of performance and price with a R7 3750H, 1660 Ti, 16 GB RAM, and 512 GB PCIe SSD for $1099 USD on Amazon, but I have no idea what its battery life would be like, especially because there's no iGPU to fall back onto for increased battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's any other information that would be useful in a recommendation that I've omitted, please let me know and I'l try to fill in the gaps. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-VivoBook-Lightweight-WideView-Fingerprint/dp/B0795W86N3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Gigabit-TUF505DU-EB74/dp/B07RYBB2HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48396" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="dd25de52-e5d0-48b0-b533-40f5f192c776" CreationDate="2020-05-16T05:51:00.807" UserId="9543" Text="School laptop for medium-light gaming and good battery life" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48397" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="dd25de52-e5d0-48b0-b533-40f5f192c776" CreationDate="2020-05-16T05:51:00.807" UserId="9543" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="b5e18809-ef1e-473c-bca5-f1a00e4d1701" CreationDate="2020-05-16T19:38:27.307" UserId="9543" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I'm going to be entering as a freshman Computer Engineering major next school year and am beginning to shop around for laptops to replace my [Asus F510UA][1] laptop which has been getting me through high school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan on using my new laptop for computer programming, CAD, and schoolwork (*likely with VMs*), medium-light gaming (*e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships*), and note-taking in school lectures once I get to my campus. I'm not on a tight budget, but also don't want to be spending any more than $1500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something I've been missing in my ~$500 ASUS high school laptop is battery life; it's rare I have more than 1.5-2 hrs away from the wall at medium brightness and a normal workload before I have to charge. I'm in the market for something which can last a fair bit longer than this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recently been looking into possibly getting the [ASUS TUF 505DU-MB74][2] laptop because of its nice-looking mix of performance and price with an R7 3750H, 1660 Ti, 16 GB RAM, and 512 GB PCIe SSD for $1099 USD on Amazon, but I have no idea what its battery life would be like, especially because there's no iGPU to fall back onto for increased battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's any other information that would be useful in a recommendation that I've omitted, please let me know and I'll try to fill in the gaps. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-VivoBook-Lightweight-WideView-Fingerprint/dp/B0795W86N3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Gigabit-TUF505DU-EB74/dp/B07RYBB2HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13149" RevisionGUID="de42fd38-e6f1-4aed-a833-1cbfd1b85ebb" CreationDate="2020-05-16T22:18:59.270" UserId="9825" Comment="edited body" Text="Start with a [USB 3 to SATA III combi cable][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Add a [short SATA male-female cable][2] to the drive end of the combi cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now you're free to handle the drive power requirements, however you wish.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Adapters/usb-3-1-gen-2-adapter-cable-2-5-sata-drives~USB31CSAT3CB&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ebay.com/i/233429373289" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="b2fa7208-01f2-4350-971c-37c393eed16e" CreationDate="2020-05-17T23:57:03.833" UserId="9825" Text="&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48432" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="595" RevisionGUID="14363596-20eb-46a0-9b7a-0c05ed3a55bd" CreationDate="2020-05-18T10:06:30.710" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48433" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11225" RevisionGUID="cded762b-34f8-4c10-8785-66eb2f871687" CreationDate="2020-05-18T13:00:50.040" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48437" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="f2d19838-5496-4662-a13e-7ae8f965c43c" CreationDate="2020-05-18T15:16:05.427" UserId="9825" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="To answer your battery life question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48438" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="cb8bcb74-51cc-4ce0-b7b1-da51bdef06eb" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:26:43.827" UserId="9825" Comment="added 394 characters in body" Text="To answer your battery life question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to an alternative well suited for CAD and computer programming, and schoolwork (likely with VMs), medium-light gaming (e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships), and lecture note-taking, I suggest the [ThinkPad P73 which NewEgg advertised at $1,399][1] FOB US Destination. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2WC-000J-00987?Description=thinkpad%20p73&amp;cm_re=thinkpad_p73-_-2WC-000J-00987-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48439" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="9b7cc84e-40aa-4b7a-bf7f-a96b9fa3ea17" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:35:30.690" UserId="9825" Comment="added 150 characters in body" Text="To answer your battery life question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to an alternative well suited for CAD and computer programming, and schoolwork (likely with VMs), medium-light gaming (e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships), and lecture note-taking, I suggest the [ThinkPad P73 which NewEgg advertised at $1,399][1] FOB US Destination.  The 17.3&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS, anti-glare, 300 nits screen is well suited for CAD, as is the NVIDIA® Quadro® P620 4GB display adapter to drive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2WC-000J-00987?Description=thinkpad%20p73&amp;cm_re=thinkpad_p73-_-2WC-000J-00987-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48440" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13474" RevisionGUID="ef972634-1319-4001-827f-8a7d2568c69c" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:55:21.060" UserId="9825" Comment="added 141 characters in body; added 6 characters in body" Text="1.  Gigabyte Tech Supported asks you to contact them to obtain the Z390AORUSPROGA9.zip BIOS and apply it to your existing motherboard. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;2. Gigabyte TS replied and suggested their [ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING][1] which is [US$190][2], but is not available right now at NewEggUK. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See https://pastebin.com/SZw4Rfw0 for their suggestion and contact information on #2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would make sure to contact Gigabyte yourself and confirm this product meets all of your specifications, and make sure your vendor will accept a no charge return if it does not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z390-H-GAMING/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z390-h-gaming/p/N82E16813119158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48441" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13495" RevisionGUID="4e1f6aa6-3cfc-4d5a-aeec-226fb2d48af1" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:05:35.663" UserId="5132" Text="My scenario is that at ground level I do not have phone signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At around 20m height I get quite a good phone sinal, including internet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use an Android phone to use it for voice calls from my computer (perhaps via wifi/bluetooth) and have good signal antennas to _catch_ as much signal as possible from the cell tower.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I will use it as hotspot, hence the need for good wifi and bluetooth signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried this with my iPhone, but unfortunatelly, I cannot have voice calls when the iPhone works as hotspot." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48442" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13495" RevisionGUID="4e1f6aa6-3cfc-4d5a-aeec-226fb2d48af1" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:05:35.663" UserId="5132" Text="Android phone with powerful signal antena (eventually exendible) and good Bluetooth and Wifi range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48443" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13495" RevisionGUID="4e1f6aa6-3cfc-4d5a-aeec-226fb2d48af1" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:05:35.663" UserId="5132" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="168b94f3-8827-4b6c-9fe3-c6815790bb1f" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:10:37.247" UserId="9825" Text="A Cellular repeater at 20m elevation is recommended. It must match the cellular voice and data bands used by your provider, wherever you are." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48445" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="4a1f9a8e-f3ee-40d7-818b-890f807641f5" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:23:26.867" UserId="9825" Comment="added 65 characters in body" Text="A [Cellular repeater][1] at 20m elevation is recommended. It must match the cellular voice and data bands used by your provider, wherever you are. That eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card, and _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48446" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="f69e1235-6b20-485f-8a7e-e9e0cb2a3697" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:28:18.440" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="To answer your battery life question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to an alternative well suited for &quot;_CAD and computer programming, and schoolwork (likely with VMs), medium-light gaming (e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships), and lecture note-taking_&quot;, I suggest the [ThinkPad P73 which NewEgg advertised at $1,399][1] FOB US Destination.  The 17.3&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS, anti-glare, 300 nits screen is well suited for CAD, as is the NVIDIA® Quadro® P620 4GB display adapter to drive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2WC-000J-00987?Description=thinkpad%20p73&amp;cm_re=thinkpad_p73-_-2WC-000J-00987-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48447" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="4bc0ada5-4656-4564-a01d-439b7db769a2" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:44:25.180" UserId="9825" Comment="added 105 characters in body" Text="A [Cellular repeater][1] or [femtocell][2] at 20m elevation is recommended. It must match the cellular voice and data bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and have regional regulatory approval. That eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card, and _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48448" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="dce1a573-7f42-4ae0-a821-b50d7c9d55cf" CreationDate="2020-05-18T17:50:41.767" UserId="9825" Comment="added 163 characters in body" Text="To answer your battery life question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to an alternative well suited for &quot;_CAD and computer programming, and schoolwork (likely with VMs), medium-light gaming (e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships), and lecture note-taking_&quot;, I suggest the [ThinkPad P73 which NewEgg advertised at $1,399][1] FOB US Destination.  The 17.3&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS, anti-glare, 300 nits screen is well suited for CAD, as is the NVIDIA® Quadro® P620 4GB display adapter and the [9th generation i7 CPU][2] to drive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2WC-000J-00987?Description=thinkpad%20p73&amp;cm_re=thinkpad_p73-_-2WC-000J-00987-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191045/intel-core-i7-9750h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-50-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13497" RevisionGUID="571cc426-da6f-4387-a52a-3d20bf2c07e0" CreationDate="2020-05-18T18:19:07.430" UserId="9825" Text="https://gmw.com/product/senis-magnetic-field-transducer-3-axis-ac/ is advertised as offering three axis sensing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48450" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13457" RevisionGUID="dca85d3c-e4b7-4a1a-9e37-b518e0122822" CreationDate="2020-05-18T18:43:11.040" UserId="9825" Comment="added 151 characters in body" Text="The [Gigabyte GV-N105TOC-4GL][1] is only 37mm tall, it is specified as Low Profile, and includes   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - DisplayPort 1.4&#xD;&#xA; - DVI-D Dual-Link  &#xD;&#xA; - Two 2 HDMI 2.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could add an [HDMI-VGA adapter][2] for the VGA when needed, or perhaps you could use the motherboard video port of that [Dell Optiplex 780][3] for VGA monitors in parallel with the add-in card; Gigabyte could advise, and their US number is +1-626-854-9338.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N105TOC-4GL/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2VH-001M-00004?item=9SIA86V3E18207&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/product-support/servicetag/0-TzY0MWNWVlZZMERPZU96QkkzZW9vQT090/docs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48451" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13474" RevisionGUID="898f9f67-86d3-4dc0-b792-7d10e793d272" CreationDate="2020-05-18T18:51:09.877" UserId="9825" Comment="added 183 characters in body" Text="1.  Gigabyte Tech Support asks you to contact them to obtain the Z390AORUSPROGA9.zip BIOS and apply it to your existing motherboard. See https://pastebin.com/uqYt3rmx for details of their response. I regret I can't provide a direct link to the BIOS update file they suggested, so you have to contact them to get it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Gigabyte TS replied and suggested their [ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING][1] which is [US$190][2], but is not available right now at NewEggUK. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See https://pastebin.com/SZw4Rfw0 for their suggestion and contact information on #2. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would make sure to contact Gigabyte yourself and confirm this product meets all of your specifications, and make sure your vendor will accept a no charge return if it does not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z390-H-GAMING/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z390-h-gaming/p/N82E16813119158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48452" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="7d06070f-afa4-4143-bf70-1e0d6863c69a" CreationDate="2020-05-18T19:24:42.537" UserId="9825" Comment="added 529 characters in body" Text="A [cellular repeater][1] or [femtocell][2] at 20m elevation is recommended. It must match the cellular voice and data bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and have regional regulatory approval. That eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card, and _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas. There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A [Yagi-Uda][3] or other [directional antenna][4] can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48453" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="73b6ac61-4e76-428c-9fb8-d914333bf3d6" CreationDate="2020-05-18T21:05:38.310" UserId="9825" Comment="added 293 characters in body" Text="A [cellular repeater][1] or [femtocell][2] at 20m elevation is recommended. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Layout diagram active repeater from https://www.waveform.com/pages/cell-phone-repeaters][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must match the cellular voice and data frequency bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and may require regional regulatory approval. That eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card, and _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An active repeater adds signal gain, whereas a passive repeater doesn't. Therefore, an active repeater is preferred. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following picture shows two antennas coupled together; if there's an active repeater between the antennas instead of just cable, that would be ideal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas coupled through low-loss cable to form a passive repeater. &#xD;&#xA;[![passive repeater][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A [Yagi-Uda][5] or other [directional antenna][6] can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48454" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13495" RevisionGUID="6d4c2c72-342e-4981-90e4-f1419ce37d86" CreationDate="2020-05-18T21:45:03.340" UserId="9825" Comment="edited title" Text="Android phone with powerful signal antenna (eventually exended), good Bluetooth and Wifi range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48455" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="73d05181-90ff-4c63-8a0f-e76ec8961173" CreationDate="2020-05-18T21:46:15.577" UserId="9825" Comment="added 123 characters in body" Text="Since very few cellphones nowadays allow for external antennas, and they are special-purpose and therevore very expensive, a [cellular repeater][1] or [femtocell][2] at 20m elevation is recommended. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Layout diagram active repeater from https://www.waveform.com/pages/cell-phone-repeaters][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must match the cellular voice and data frequency bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and may require regional regulatory approval. That eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card, and _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An active repeater adds signal gain, whereas a passive repeater doesn't. Therefore, an active repeater is preferred. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following picture shows two antennas coupled together; if there's an active repeater between the antennas instead of just cable, that would be ideal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas coupled through low-loss cable to form a passive repeater. &#xD;&#xA;[![passive repeater][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A [Yagi-Uda][5] or other [directional antenna][6] can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48456" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="a3379dd8-9ad3-49c3-82c4-fac36660552d" CreationDate="2020-05-18T21:52:47.150" UserId="9825" Comment="added 45 characters in body" Text="Since very few [cellphones nowadays have external antennas][1], and they are not Android but are 2G only, a [cellular repeater][2] or [femtocell][3] at 20m elevation is recommended. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Layout diagram active repeater from https://www.waveform.com/pages/cell-phone-repeaters][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must match the cellular voice and data frequency bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and may require regional regulatory approval. They  _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published. A repeater also eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An active repeater adds signal gain, whereas a passive repeater doesn't. Therefore, an active repeater is preferred. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following picture shows two antennas coupled together; if there's an active repeater between the antennas instead of just cable, that would be ideal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas coupled through low-loss cable to form a passive repeater. &#xD;&#xA;[![passive repeater][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A [Yagi-Uda][6] or other [directional antenna][7] can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. However, that depends on knowing what frequency bands your cellphone carrier uses, as directional antennas are very frequency-specific.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22android%20cellphone%20with%20external%20antenna%22&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48461" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8194" RevisionGUID="2e43cd20-1ee9-4ea9-a433-d769a3380ad2" CreationDate="2020-05-19T15:07:50.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48462" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13496" RevisionGUID="e799703a-ae9b-4e4e-bcd2-e62f50166e3b" CreationDate="2020-05-19T15:34:54.757" UserId="9825" Comment="added 299 characters in body" Text="Since very few [cellphones nowadays have external antennas][1], and they are not Android but are 2G only, a [cellular repeater][2] or [femtocell][3] at 20m elevation is recommended. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Layout diagram active repeater from https://www.waveform.com/pages/cell-phone-repeaters][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It must match the cellular voice and data frequency bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and may require regional regulatory approval. They  _will_ work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published. A repeater also eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An active repeater adds signal gain, whereas a passive repeater doesn't. Therefore, an active repeater is preferred. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The following picture shows two antennas coupled together; if there's an active repeater between the antennas instead of just cable, that would be ideal and much more likely to work with no problems, rather than an unamplified passive approach. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas coupled through low-loss cable to form a passive repeater. &#xD;&#xA;[![passive repeater][5]][5]  L50 ohm LMR400 cable would be my choice for cable; see  https://info.wilsonpro.com/ty-installationguide/ and  https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/blog/understanding-coaxial-cables-the-complete-guide for more. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A [Yagi-Uda][6] or other [directional antenna][7] can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. However, that depends on knowing what frequency bands your cellphone carrier uses, as directional antennas are very frequency-specific.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22android%20cellphone%20with%20external%20antenna%22&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48464" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13492" RevisionGUID="3070c21e-84a7-4d27-8564-0bdb02ab1b6e" CreationDate="2020-05-19T17:51:47.130" UserId="9825" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="One alternative well suited for &quot;_CAD and computer programming, and schoolwork (likely with VMs), medium-light gaming (e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships), and lecture note-taking_&quot;, would be a [ThinkPad P73 which NewEgg advertised at $1,399][1] FOB US Destination in one configuration.  The 17.3&quot; FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS, anti-glare, 300 nits screen is well suited for CAD, as is the NVIDIA® Quadro® P620 4GB display adapter and the [9th generation i7 CPU][2] to drive it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, to answer your battery life question regarding the FX505DU:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Overall battery life for the FX505DU is pretty mediocre, which is to be expected since this is a machine that’s primarily made for gaming. On our WiFi connected YouTube test where we just autoplay YouTube with screen brightness at 50% and sound at 50%, the FX505DU ran for 5 hours before it completely tapped out.&quot; - https://www.unbox.ph/gadget/asus-tuf-fx505du-review-tuf-gets-tougher/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;When subjected to the usual Battery Eater testing tool, which gauges the minimum battery life of a given notebook PC, the ASUS TUF FX505 lasted for 1 hours and 45 minutes. This isn’t particularly great but it’s not too far from the norm for gaming laptops.&quot; - https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/asus/tuf-fx505/669010/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Gaming laptops rarely impress when it comes to battery life —after all, the powerful gaming components inside need a lot of juice, which reduces battery runtime before you plug it in. With a smaller screen size and low-powered CPU and GPU, we hoped that the Asus TUF Gaming TUF505DU-EB74 would be better in this regard. Sadly, it fails to pin better battery life yielding around 4 hours 31 minutes. We are not surprised, though, as we have reviewed more expensive laptops with worse battery scores.&quot; - https://www.digitweek.com/asus-tuf505du-eb74-2019-gaming-laptop-review/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another reviewer found 4 hrs, 48 min of YouTube viewing and 1 hr, 9 min of gaming per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVoLFldxlA starting at 5:40 into the video.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/2WC-000J-00987?Description=thinkpad%20p73&amp;cm_re=thinkpad_p73-_-2WC-000J-00987-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191045/intel-core-i7-9750h-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-50-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48465" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13479" RevisionGUID="135601c8-1a22-458f-af02-d4333cd04ee7" CreationDate="2020-05-19T17:53:15.660" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 25 characters in body" Text="I have a desktop 3.5&quot; HDD and a desktop DVD drive. I also have the SMPS/power supply, all the power cables and the internal SATA cables with me. All these parts are taken out of my old desktop (I threw away the RAM, Processor and Motherboard). I had upgraded the HDD and DVD drive, so I didn't throw them away.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I intend to use the HDD and DVD drive externally with my new laptop either via eSATA port or USB 3.0 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to search on the internet to find a SATA to eSATA/USB 3.0 converter WITHOUT power (as I have the power supply and wires already with me, as mentioned above I have the SMPS and all the required power cables). All the internet search results for the converter have power supply also included, which I don't need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question: Can anyone point me with a good SATA to eSATA/USB cable/converter WITHOUT power? Or any other solution.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am in India." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48466" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13474" RevisionGUID="1d1c9399-2649-4178-9571-0fcf0428874b" CreationDate="2020-05-19T17:55:50.010" UserId="9825" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="A.  Gigabyte Tech Support asks you to contact them to obtain the Z390AORUSPROGA9.zip BIOS and apply it to your existing motherboard. See https://pastebin.com/uqYt3rmx for details of their response. I regret I can't provide a direct link to the BIOS update file they suggested, so you have to contact them to get it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Gigabyte TS replied and suggested their [ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING][1] which is [US$190][2], but is not available right now at NewEggUK.  See https://pastebin.com/SZw4Rfw0 for their suggestion and contact information on item B.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would make sure to contact Gigabyte yourself and confirm this product meets all of your specifications, and make sure your vendor will accept a no charge return if it does not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No other vendors queried have replied to my question regarding your specifications. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z390-H-GAMING/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z390-h-gaming/p/N82E16813119158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48467" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13466" RevisionGUID="f0c42ff6-1a52-4573-af15-cc553d25a0d1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T17:56:59.693" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 4 characters in body" Text="I want to enable passthrough of my [GeForce RTX 2080Ti][1] GPU in Windows Server (2019 preferred) using  [DDA][2]. I need to buy another motherboard, since my current [Gigabyte AORUS Pro][3] motherboard will not support the [ACS][4] ([more on ACS][5]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy another CPU, as this is for pleasure and for learning, and want to reuse my [i9-9900K][6] CPU and existing DDR4 XMP non-ECC memory.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I would spend more or less [200 Euros][7]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which i9-9900K compatible [FCLGA1151][8] (LGA 1151 Gen2) motherboards using DDR4 memory support ACS. VT-d, and APICv (so the graphic card can be assigned to the guest OS) do  you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_20_series&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Glossary/D/Dual_Dynamic_Acceleration.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10/sp#sp&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Control_Service&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://books.google.com/books?id=1SnVDgAAQBAJ&amp;pg=PT182&amp;lpg=PT182&amp;dq=%22Windows%20Server%22%20%22Access%20Control%20Service%22%20-Azure&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=_dRe1Fw0wb&amp;sig=ACfU3U2ng5tdxeln4uJI4Rhc_wu3wdgrmg&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjR0fX467PpAhWLv54KHVddAzgQ6AEwCHoECGEQAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=%22Windows%20Server%22%20%22Access%20Control%20Service%22%20-Azure&amp;f=false&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i9-9900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00wGMOBg4ViboqHbi3lJdXl-zgg0g:1589404278705&amp;psb=1&amp;q=LGA1151+motherboard&amp;tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_max:183,cat:289,pdtr0:713223%7C1010359,new:1,init_ar:SgVKAwihAkoKUggIh8QrILfVPQ%3D%3D&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiK1L6r4LHpAhXTu54KHSuqDQkQsysIqxEoAA&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=684&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48471" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="c021009d-0744-40bd-a0df-6a439b318382" CreationDate="2020-05-20T09:01:55.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48472" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13500" RevisionGUID="b5edc17d-1f92-4257-9976-65b01c7a0070" CreationDate="2020-05-20T11:24:52.680" UserId="24" Text="It should give power to them, and give a SATA connection to them. Roughly so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD rack mount][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...except that I want to put 3.5'' SATA drives in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want, externally: simple SATA slots, connected to the drives directly. All &quot;intelligent&quot; solutions, particularly complex NAS servers, etc. are all big no-no. I only want a physical storage for the hard disks, the NAS part is done by me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have, **but not a requirement**, if at least some of the HDDs can be hot-removed (i.e. without screwing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be consequent to the near-zero electronics. (Obviously it should be cheaper than a NAS.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8sZO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48473" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13500" RevisionGUID="b5edc17d-1f92-4257-9976-65b01c7a0070" CreationDate="2020-05-20T11:24:52.680" UserId="24" Text="HDD rack container" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48474" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13500" RevisionGUID="b5edc17d-1f92-4257-9976-65b01c7a0070" CreationDate="2020-05-20T11:24:52.680" UserId="24" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48479" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="579585aa-ca3f-483e-9d1d-5089823d68d1" CreationDate="2020-05-20T16:03:25.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48481" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13502" RevisionGUID="64fa6102-24d8-46da-a601-61622ff878a6" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:07:40.153" UserId="9825" Text="This is a rack-mounted JBOD (Just a Box Of Disks) 19&quot; enclosure for 3.5&quot; SATA drives. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[8 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[12 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are hot-swap compatible *if your controller supports that*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19&quot; rack-mount drives the price up; if you would accept a freestanding cabinet, [the price drops][3], but you would need to specify the number of drive bays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/raid-machine-n1208rm/p/1UW-0036-00098?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-9SIADZY5VP3461-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-dage412u20-3ms-silver/p/N82E16816215154?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-16-215-154-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=jbod%20enclosure%203%2E5%22&amp;PageSize=96&amp;order=PRICE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48482" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13482" RevisionGUID="ed5bf421-12c2-4ae6-86a4-6218234d7de6" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:11:04.833" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="A desktop-style ATX-type SMPS/PSU/power supply (whatever you want to call it) will not deliver power if it does not sense a motherboard, unless you acquire a diagnostic test adapter or equivalent circuit to imitate the circuitry of a motherboard.  Pre-ATX power supplies would, but those are a long, long time gone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless your laptop has a dedicated eSATA port, let's confine our search to USB, the popular and practical interface solution. If it does, please provide the make and model part number (from the serial number sticker) of the laptop for compatibility verification.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, you need to power the drives from the laptop over USB, and mount each in an enclosure. Fortunately, those are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to use.  They also avoid the need to add a diagnostic tester to the power supply, relieving you of that cost and inconvenience. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot;/2.5&quot; SATA HDD adapter][1] ([Indian vendor][2]), and a [USB 1/2/3 to 3.5&quot; SATA adapter suitable for optical drives][3] ([Indian vendor][4]).  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.sabrent.com/product/EC-DFLT/usb-3-0-sata-external-hard-drive-lay-flat-docking-station-2-5-3-5in-hdd-ssd/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.startech.com/HDD/Enclosures/usb-3-slimline-sata-optical-drive-enclosure~SLSODDU33B&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.in/StarTech-com-Slimline-Enclosure-Aluminum-SLSODDU33B/dp/B00VO7VOUI/ref=sr_1_1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48483" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13503" RevisionGUID="748621ef-7183-4f4d-97d7-2949b490bc41" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:14:00.567" UserId="15849" Text="I have a project that will need a small touch display. It will be used in public buildings to control an alarm system. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once the prototype has been built, more of the displays will be ordered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The requirements for the project are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Touch display (preferably resistive)&#xD;&#xA; * RS485 connectivity (to enable the display to be a good distance from the hardware)&#xD;&#xA; * Cost per display is a consideration when ordered in volume (200 per year or so). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display doesn't need to be very big (4&quot; or even less would work), and the resolution doesn't really matter either, as long as it's adequate for buttons and text. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know how visual elements are configured to the display (for example by using QT), that would be helpful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help or direction!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example image:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRiF.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48484" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13503" RevisionGUID="748621ef-7183-4f4d-97d7-2949b490bc41" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:14:00.567" UserId="15849" Text="Small Touch Display Recommendation with RS485 Connectivity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48485" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13503" RevisionGUID="748621ef-7183-4f4d-97d7-2949b490bc41" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:14:00.567" UserId="15849" Text="&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48486" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13502" RevisionGUID="54426c37-3770-480d-8af0-39cc011c5d88" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:15:54.467" UserId="9825" Comment="added 375 characters in body" Text="This is a rack-mounted JBOD (Just a Box Of Disks) 19&quot; enclosure for 3.5&quot; SATA drives. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[8 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[12 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are hot-swap compatible *if your controller supports that*. Controller cables are readily available from that source, once you make a selection of what you want, but the standard SATA port on a motherboard is designed to control just one drive, so for an enclosure like this, you will need a [JBOD controller][3] for the number of SATA drives you plan to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19&quot; rack-mount drives the price up; if you would accept a freestanding cabinet, [the price drops][4], but you would need to specify the number of drive bays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/raid-machine-n1208rm/p/1UW-0036-00098?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-9SIADZY5VP3461-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-dage412u20-3ms-silver/p/N82E16816215154?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-16-215-154-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/syba-sd-via-1a2s-sata-ide/p/N82E16816124009&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=jbod%20enclosure%203%2E5%22&amp;PageSize=96&amp;order=PRICE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48487" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13504" RevisionGUID="ef93bb66-7c8d-4e8d-b64d-5ee402a916cb" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:48:10.547" UserId="9825" Text="https://www.ebay.com/i/302749391806?chn=ps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/i/302947551880?chn=ps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.ebay.com/i/303039933850?chn=ps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;shows three RS485 [touch displays][1].  Please contact the sellers for volume pricing, dimensions for mounting hardware and bezels, and how visual elements are configured to the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwiIysPw_sLpAhXaIK0GHUAPDvcYABB5GgJwdg&amp;sig=AOD64_3Y3EpKvKdrhpcYJrY1L72dwG-9wQ&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjOpb_w_sLpAhWSq54KHdmDCdEQ2CkIows&amp;adurl=" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48488" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13500" RevisionGUID="292a1ebb-b8d5-4ba4-8f12-44c008815ccd" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:54:40.310" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="It should give power to them, and give a SATA connection to them. Roughly so:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDD rack mount][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...except that I want to put 3.5'' SATA drives in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want, externally: simple SATA slots, connected to the drives directly. All &quot;intelligent&quot; solutions, particularly complex NAS servers, etc. are all big no-no. I only want a physical storage for the hard disks, the NAS part is done by me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have, **but not a requirement**, if at least some of the HDDs can be hot-swapped (removed without screws).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price should be consequent to the near-zero electronics. (Obviously it should be cheaper than a NAS.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8sZO.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48489" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13502" RevisionGUID="5588cb5e-1c70-4988-b759-63efada74ecb" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:55:10.317" UserId="9825" Comment="added 23 characters in body" Text="This is a rack-mounted JBOD (Just a Box Of Disks) 19&quot; enclosure for 3.5&quot; SATA drives. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[8 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[12 bays for 3.5&quot; drives][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both are hot-swap compatible *if your controller supports that*. Controller cables are readily available from that source, once you make a selection of what you want, but the standard SATA port on a motherboard is designed to control just one drive, so for an enclosure like this, you will need a [2-port JBOD controller][3] (or more ports) for the number of SATA drives you plan to use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;19&quot; rack-mount drives the price up; if you would accept a freestanding cabinet, [the price drops][4], but you would need to specify the number of drive bays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/raid-machine-n1208rm/p/1UW-0036-00098?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-9SIADZY5VP3461-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-dage412u20-3ms-silver/p/N82E16816215154?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-16-215-154-_-Product&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/syba-sd-via-1a2s-sata-ide/p/N82E16816124009&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=jbod%20enclosure%203%2E5%22&amp;PageSize=96&amp;order=PRICE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="cf1c4a5f-be71-4aac-bc34-b4237ff1b56e" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:59:00.210" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 155 characters in body" Text="I start as a freshman Computer Engineering major next school year and am shopping for a laptop to replace my [Asus F510UA][1] high school laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan on using my new laptop for computer programming, CAD, and schoolwork (*likely with VMs*), medium-light gaming (*e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships*), and note-taking in school lectures once I get to campus. I'm not on a tight budget, but also don't want to spend more than $1500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something I've been missing in my ~$500 ASUS high school laptop is battery life; it's rare I get &gt; 1.5-2 hrs away at medium brightness &amp; normal workload before I have to recharge. I want something which lasts a fair bit longer than this on battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked at the [ASUS TUF 505DU-MB74][2] laptop because of its nice-looking mix of performance and price with an R7 3750H CPU, 1660Ti GU, 16 GB RAM, and 512 GB PCIe SSD for $1099 USD on Amazon, but I have no idea of its battery life, especially because there's no iGPU to fall back onto for increased battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's any other information that would be useful in a recommendation that I've omitted, please let me know and I'll try to fill in the gaps. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-VivoBook-Lightweight-WideView-Fingerprint/dp/B0795W86N3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Gigabit-TUF505DU-EB74/dp/B07RYBB2HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48491" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13503" RevisionGUID="8fc6bb27-8066-4ea3-9471-834ca8a1c839" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:01:07.027" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 56 characters in body" Text="A project needs a small touch display to control an alarm system in public buildings. requiring: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Touch display (preferably resistive)&#xD;&#xA; * RS485 connectivity (to enable the display to be a good distance from the hardware)&#xD;&#xA; * Cost per display is a consideration when ordered in volume (200 per year or so). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display doesn't need to be very big (4&quot; or even less would work), and the resolution doesn't really matter either, as long as it's adequate for buttons and text. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you know how visual elements are configured to the display (for example by using QT), that would be helpful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once the prototype has been built, more of the displays will be ordered. Example image:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![picture of a similar display with bezel][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for any help or direction!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRiF.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48492" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13475" RevisionGUID="82277a3f-6769-4134-a2ae-23e64b5406e1" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:02:39.357" UserId="9825" Comment="edited title" Text="Economical Apple laptop wanted for personal use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48493" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13463" RevisionGUID="042a80dd-35fb-4316-9890-124b7b742fc5" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:06:10.453" UserId="9825" Comment="added 31 characters in body; edited title" Text="I tend to use [this sort of thing] as non-volatile storage for Raspberry Pis.(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000041651.html)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pic of USB-A flash memory drive][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want something similar for a Raspberry Pi Zero with a micro-USB connector:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![pic of Raspberry Pi Zero with connectors identified][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used a converter cable to attach a USB-A flash memory drive, but wonder if there's something which does not require a converter. The problem is the physical layout, as I will often want to connect a USB cable for power next to the USB socket for my NVM.  Is there a small, cheap, single-product solution?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uCVP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AsLKB.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48494" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13463" RevisionGUID="042a80dd-35fb-4316-9890-124b7b742fc5" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:06:10.453" UserId="9825" Comment="added 31 characters in body; edited title" Text="Want small USB flash memory drive with micro USB connector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48495" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13459" RevisionGUID="c3e9178d-aafe-4bd4-b5fc-38b957c17bb0" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:07:35.320" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 24 characters in body" Text="I want a lightweight laptop cooling pad with no fan.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My laptop provides sufficient cooling, but that relies on drawing air in from a large grill across the bottom of the unit.  As such, I feel like when I sit it on my lap or a similar surface like a bed, the fabric of my clothes or the blankets cover this grill and make it hard for sufficient airflow to enter, stressing the fans and make the laptop run hotter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Right now I have an old &quot;Cooler Master&quot; I found in my attic which sort of looks like this model, but is older:&#xD;&#xA;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81IOqBWTwcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It appears that this model is not being sold any more and is only available from scalpers for ridiculous prices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The old model I have is nice in that it is lightweight and has plenty of holes to let airflow through.  The back is also elevated which makes typing easier.  It does NOT have any fans, which is good because I don't want any.  However, it has two problems: one, it apparently is for a 13 inch laptop, so my 17&quot; model sticks substantially over the edges.  But the more annoying problem is that my model has two plastic feed on the back sides and nothing in between, which combined with the weight of my laptop becomes uncomfortable over time and even leaves large red marks on my legs despite wearing heavy denim pants.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have seen a few pads which appear to be more like stands which adjust to insane angles.   As a result, they have these little things that stick out at the bottom to prevent the computer from falling out which can get in the way of typing a low angles.  I only want a shadow angle with two to three inches max height in the back, and nothing to get in my way when I try to type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find something like shown in the above picture for a 17&quot; laptop, except without fans, and for a reasonable price (I'm guessing around $20 or so)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48496" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13451" RevisionGUID="1630a7f6-3bf6-48f2-ba1f-e8d12cd9b2a7" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:09:55.407" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 55 characters in body" Text="One of my friends has problems with the 3.5mm audio jacks on the front of his PC. He's not technical enough to look into fixing those and what that implies. With lockdown all over the place, it's hard to go to a specialised shop right now, so we want an alternative to make this work.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The audio jacks on the back of the case work well, but the headphones cable is not long enough to allow to sit comfortably at the desk.  I would like something like a little hub (mc+headphones) he could connect to the back of his PC and leverage those ports via this extension. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We looked at a few things but some were not what we were after: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Desktop adapter for specific desks with the round hole cutouts][1] This one only works if you have those corner holes in your desktop, so not great a great fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Front Panel][2] The person can't be trusted to open the case and install this since they have no experience with this. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. USB to 3.5 mm not really excited about, they are usually short and the 1 working front USB port is used for other stuff. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. [Creative Sound - Desktop audio control module][3] Something like this module would be nice, but without the entire card since opening the case is not an option. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. I have one of these hubs on my keyboard, but his keyboard does not have one, unfortunately.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-recessed-Built-Connector-Microphone-black/dp/B07H4MYS4C/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SQ17YD7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07SQ17YD7&amp;pd_rd_w=35Cj9&amp;pf_rd_p=1055d8b2-c10c-4d7d-b50d-96300553e15d&amp;pd_rd_wg=9QwnN&amp;pf_rd_r=E04H8QMAQ20V5CYVT26B&amp;pd_rd_r=45836c56-c391-4c7d-b68f-44ec1031709e&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTdDOU04WkJaTUNRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc3Mzg2M0RDVjlGNE1HV1haQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE1NzQ4MjFJUUlZQTE3STY5UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Desktop/dp/B00A152RYG/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48497" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13449" RevisionGUID="bb436597-2ced-4f56-bce7-42d98ed21bed" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:11:43.190" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 21 characters in body" Text="I want a new PC, mainly for work, plus other minor stuff like browsing, Netflix, and Skype. I work in economics research, therefore I need to easily work with reasonably big datasets (say, ~25Gb of data) and pure, brute computational power for simulations, model estimation, some light machine learning task. I write code mainly in R/Python/Julia/Matlab/Stata languages, plus LaTeX for writing presentations and articles. I can get some discount on Dell machines through my Uni, which restricts the options to basically two alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - XPS 13, fully spec'ed (i7 10th gen, 16 Gb RAM, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA; - Latitude 7400, fully spec'ed (i7 8th gen, 16 Gb RAM expansible, 512 SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both machines fit the portability requirement, as I can also work at a conference without carrying around a stone slate. The after discount prices are close enough (&lt;1500€). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here comes my question then: which one should I favour, knowing my work needs? As of now, ports and expansible RAM on the Latitude are an advantage that comes at the cost of separated AC port and thickness, while the XPS has fewer ports, RAM is soldered but has more portability and is powered via USB C (one less charger to carry around)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that when I am at office I usually use a second screen if that helps in any way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit: 15&quot; would be ok but are usually much more pricier and less portable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;edit II: got in touch with Dell's Sales, the Latitude 7400 *can* be powered by a USB-C charger (so a dock station can work, too) and not only with the barrel ('Coaxial') plug." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48498" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13431" RevisionGUID="e20cfde0-f788-4c0f-96be-e4a4e09cd687" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:15:59.270" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 17 characters in body" Text="I have a PC with a [Gigabyte X299 board][1], but the BIOS support for virtualization is just absolute junk. I tried flashing an upgrade of the BIOS to a 3.0 version so I could work with [Minikube][2] and it will only boot in recovery mode. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm contemplating upgrading the MB, but I find it very hard to obtain good information on support for both multiple GPU's (for ML) and virtualization (other work) at the same time. Searching both keywords at the same time suddenly gets you into graphics card virtualization which is not what I want at all. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can folks recommend a Multi-GPU mainboard (supporting 2 more more NVIDIA GPUs, preferably with support for 4, w/ SLI) also known to have good virtualization support in the BIOS/UEFI settings? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also use it to run games occasionally, so good gaming support is a plus, but that's a secondary requirement. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU I have is an AMD 1950X Threadripper and I'd like to reuse as well as the EKWB cooling, NVMe drives and ATX case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I expect the RAM might need to be updated to the newer spec suitable for the MB, and I want to expand anyway and believe in matched sets... capacity for at least 128 GB would be desirable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Will dual boot Ubuntu and Windows, so Linux friendly is key too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific budget, but would spend if I thought I was getting something forward compatible. Exploratory stages right now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also having the sinking feeling that I might regret not moving up to the TR4X socket. But trying not to go there, as I'm only rarely able to max all 32 threads, since I tend to hit memory issues first (48 GB currently).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X299-AORUS-Gaming-7-Pro-rev-10#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://kubernetes.io/docs/setup/learning-environment/minikube/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48499" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="13485" RevisionGUID="8544cbe1-003a-4ce2-8601-06baf14f0cea" CreationDate="2020-05-20T18:39:13.463" UserId="9543" Comment="Rollback to [b5e18809-ef1e-473c-bca5-f1a00e4d1701]" Text="I'm going to be entering as a freshman Computer Engineering major next school year and am beginning to shop around for laptops to replace my [Asus F510UA][1] laptop which has been getting me through high school.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan on using my new laptop for computer programming, CAD, and schoolwork (*likely with VMs*), medium-light gaming (*e.g. CS:GO, World of Warships*), and note-taking in school lectures once I get to my campus. I'm not on a tight budget, but also don't want to be spending any more than $1500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something I've been missing in my ~$500 ASUS high school laptop is battery life; it's rare I have more than 1.5-2 hrs away from the wall at medium brightness and a normal workload before I have to charge. I'm in the market for something which can last a fair bit longer than this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've recently been looking into possibly getting the [ASUS TUF 505DU-MB74][2] laptop because of its nice-looking mix of performance and price with an R7 3750H, 1660 Ti, 16 GB RAM, and 512 GB PCIe SSD for $1099 USD on Amazon, but I have no idea what its battery life would be like, especially because there's no iGPU to fall back onto for increased battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there's any other information that would be useful in a recommendation that I've omitted, please let me know and I'll try to fill in the gaps. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-VivoBook-Lightweight-WideView-Fingerprint/dp/B0795W86N3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-IPS-Type-GeForce-Gigabit-TUF505DU-EB74/dp/B07RYBB2HW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48500" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="ca009683-8e5c-46cb-96ee-a3d423e5373e" CreationDate="2020-05-20T19:26:30.527" UserId="9825" Comment="95" />
  <row Id="48501" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="9cdb349f-46f6-4222-b968-934931d2e37f" CreationDate="2020-05-20T19:28:15.263" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="Need TVs which behave more like a monitor (as below).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only 4K mainstream priced TVs, 40-60 inches, supporting RGB 4K60 over HDMI 2.0 ports are considered.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;40 inch+ monitors are very expensive, 40 inch+ TVs are very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(1) Monitors will turns on/off automatically (unless it is &quot;full off&quot;) when the input signal is on/off, but most TV doesn't have this feature, they will just display a no signal message when the input HDMI signal is off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) Monitors will switch to another HDMI signal that is on automatically when the current displayed HDMI signal is off&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(3) Better to be non-android TV which is to slow to turn on, but since most 4K TVs are android based, the more realizable goal is the TV have a standby mode and the time from active to standby and from standby to active is as fast as possibile (for comparison, for phone and tablet this is less than 0.5 seconds, the fastest TV I'v used need 6~10 seconds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(4) Monitor will display the image when on, but for most TVs the default scene is the home page and you need operate the remote to display some HDMI signal. Besides for TVs switching between HDMI signals need multiple remote button clicks. Monitors can also remember the HDMI channel displayed last time and you don't need to swtich channel each time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48502" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13421" RevisionGUID="18b95921-f8ac-49e8-84d1-3a135cb0caf9" CreationDate="2020-05-20T19:29:03.357" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 8 characters in body" Text="I have a mid-2014 Retina 15-inch MacBook Pro. I'm looking to buy a good cheap printer to connect to this MacBook, preferably by USB. What printers would you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping to buy a printer that's less than $100. If I can get a good one for less than $50 that would be great." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48503" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13393" RevisionGUID="cc574884-2fd3-4c1d-ab6d-34cdfdbbd0ee" CreationDate="2020-05-20T19:30:31.627" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 18 characters in body" Text="What PC (laptop or desktop) would be good for a relatively newbie coder who'll be entering a UX/UI boot camp soon? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A little background: I'm a lifelong PC/windows users (I'm coming from the business world), and while I've purchased and tried a few Apple/Mac products in my life, they've never quite gelled with me. I tend to dislike the fact that they're SO proprietary, i.e., I resent spending money on special chargers and cables, and I dislike the garbage bin (sorry, I'm nitpicking). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm located in the US (New Mexico), so I'll probably be ordering something though we do have a Best Buy here in town, currently closed due to COVID restrictions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget is somewhat open though I'd prefer to be under $2K if possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case, should I view this opportunity as my foray into the Mac world, or should I stick with PC-based tech since that's what I'm most familiar and comfortable with? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for sharing your tips and thoughts, particularly if you've been in a similar position." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48504" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13334" RevisionGUID="d8aff262-ff6b-4950-813d-873f0407898a" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:36:27.893" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have an audio device that works with battery, but this little friend here stopped working,in fact it still works, but apparently it is sending a lot less energy than it should, nor being able to turn on the LED that indicates it is charging.&#xD;&#xA;[![Connector to charger][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then I open this and found that battery&#xD;&#xA;[![Batery][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That goes here on the chip&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have much knowledge about electronics other than the basics, I can identify some things on the device, but not enough, someone could tell me how to get me to send power to the device without needing the battery or the connector to charge&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0R6H.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pr3E6.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkZi2.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48505" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13334" RevisionGUID="d8aff262-ff6b-4950-813d-873f0407898a" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:36:27.893" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body; edited title" Text="How to make a battery powered device work direct on power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48506" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="b09673ac-0c6a-4c0f-a535-f032f0e09d9c" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:37:21.247" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="I have a PC/Mac, laptop, tablet, and MP3 player set up on a multi-port desktop mixer box.  (Several brands to choose from: Maker Hart, Moukey, Behringer, Mackie Mix, etc.)  I choose **not** to go USB or Bluetooth to avoid programming glitches, incompatibilities, and the inevitable software upgrades of external devices that render a unit unusable—no, I’m sticking with 3.5mm / 1/4” / etc. jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now that I’m teleworking from home, I have to answer calls on my cellphone and landline and connect my company laptop to my monitors, keyboard and mouse.  [Got a KVM switch for those last three.] But KVMs don’t play nicely with audio or mics.  So I got an external mic switch to use along with my headphones—but I have to split the 4-plug into separate mic jacks and headphone jacks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fine.  It works.  But it’s not ideal.  The mixer I have doesn’t have a mute, nor does the mic switch.  That’s why I’m asking if anyone has recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal teleworking box would have:&#xD;&#xA;1) headset input jack for landline telephone,&#xD;&#xA;2) headset input jack for cellphone,&#xD;&#xA;3) 2-4x audio input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;4) 2-4x mic input jacks for PC/Mac/laptop,&#xD;&#xA;5) separate channel volume adjusters or gains for audio and mic inputs,&#xD;&#xA;6) separate mutes for each channel,&#xD;&#xA;7) master volume,&#xD;&#xA;8) master mic mute (cough button),&#xD;&#xA;9) input and output jacks can be any mix of 2.5mm, 3.5mm, 1/4”, XLR (mic connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve searched for mixers, switchboards, DJ boxes, telecommuting, webcasting, and other such equipment.  I’ve seen price ranges of sub-$50 for individual bare-bones mixers and switches (my current setup is a couple of such items, plus the cables/adapters required to connect them).  Prices ranged based on number of inputs &amp; outputs, so I get that.  Since I’m looking for a combo, all-in-one audio hub, I’d expect to pay more, of course.  $100-500 would be the sweet spot; whereas, the $1k or more range begins to rub against the cost-for-convenience curve and how much I can settle with turning knobs and switches on three separate boxes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48507" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="b09673ac-0c6a-4c0f-a535-f032f0e09d9c" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:37:21.247" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Want unified audio hub: PC, laptop, tablet, landline, cellphone, headphones, mic, mixer for telework, vlog, gaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48510" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="a0f5f902-f725-4141-9623-28070df6c145" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:39:07.810" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="&gt; The 1.8-meter [Power Adapter Extension Cable](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/388894/150109) is an AC extension cord that provides extra length for your Apple power adapter. Use it with MagSafe and MagSafe 2 power adapters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From [Apple's page on it](https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MK122LL/A/power-adapter-extension-cable?fnode=8b).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only official cord seems to be a 1.8-meter long cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone please help me find a much longer version, I am imagining about 5 metres?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like one for the UK please. The reason I want one instead of a traditional extension cable, and plugging my charger into that, is so that I can transport it more easily and have less cables and less cable connections to worry about." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48511" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13328" RevisionGUID="a0f5f902-f725-4141-9623-28070df6c145" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:39:07.810" UserId="9825" Comment="added 1 character in body; edited title" Text="Extra-long Power Adapter Extension Cable Wanted" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48514" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="c1b952ce-96b9-4bc5-8715-11b2eb37ff43" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:42:52.370" UserId="9825" Comment="added 8 characters in body; edited title" Text="I want to build a PC; not like a gaming rig, but instead, a computer from **scratch**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a great set of videos [here][1]), but instead of the MOS 6502, a clone processor to make computing history, a 486-based processor. I automatically assume it would be easier if I used a processor with a DIP 40 socket instead of something with a ton of pins. It both just has less pins, which would be easier, and would be much easier for prototyping. I also need something power-efficient, because I plan to eventually put it into a laptop form factor.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not related to my processor question, but also, if there is a better site to post this question, please tell me. I barely ever ask questions on Stack Exchange. Anyways, suggestions are greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnzuMJLZRdU&amp;list=PLowKtXNTBypFbtuVMUVXNR0z1mu7dp7eH" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48515" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13313" RevisionGUID="c1b952ce-96b9-4bc5-8715-11b2eb37ff43" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:42:52.370" UserId="9825" Comment="added 8 characters in body; edited title" Text="Which CPU should I use in my first scratch 486 build?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48516" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="74220141-49cc-44a3-bb30-b9d10efe4a30" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:44:05.873" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding CPU watercooling solution - probably a suggestion of &quot;custom loop&quot; components. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Problem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded it to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz (overclocked) whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45 (or ideally even less, under 40 C). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# General info&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xD;&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xD;&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xD;&#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xD;&#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xD;&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xD;&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate durable pump-reservoir. &#xD;&#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xD;&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xD;&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £2000 CPU/motherboard/RAM here!&#xD;&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xD;&#xA;- **Materials:** For the loop gneerally, whatever's needed to avoid sediment/plastic deposit and not have to maintain often. For the metal components, no &quot;mixed materials&quot; electrolytic contact with the water, so probably copper/brass not aluminium.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;#Existing recommendations&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48517" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="74220141-49cc-44a3-bb30-b9d10efe4a30" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:44:05.873" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="Want high performance CPU cooling loop to cut my Noctua NH-D15 delta-T by about 25 C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48518" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13307" RevisionGUID="3a1f4234-13e5-4e56-af00-1762c0ec3bbb" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:00:55.590" UserId="9825" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="Since you can not overclock memory on Intels current &quot;Bxxx&quot; motherboards, no matter which memory you buy, it will run at DDR4-2133, the slowest common denominator.   &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;I would not expect any compatibility issues with these low memory frequencies.  &#xD;&#xA;It may be possible to overclock to DDR4-2666, but you can't really know until you tried. I would not count on that.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: by the way, there is no &quot;too fast&quot; for memory. All higher end memory can be run at lower frequencies. It's just a waste of money." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48519" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13306" RevisionGUID="fd0cc07a-d14d-4276-8685-25bac0a865e7" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:03:24.830" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm planning to update some components on my PC and I want to know if I can buy two more modules of RAM without compatibility issues. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is the new motherboard I will be buying, a [Gigabyte B365M-DS3H][1]. It has 4 slots for RAM; now, I only have 2 on my [Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2H][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to buy the two remaining RAM modules and go for the 32GB of RAM (8GB x4) because sometimes 16GB is small for my work. Currently I have two `HyperX Fury DDR4 2133 C14 8GB` (CPU-Z says: DDR4-2134, Part number KHX2133C14D4/8GB) and I'm wondering if I could buy a pack of two of any of these newer models:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2400Mhz PC-19200 2x8GB CL15`&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2666Mhz PC-21300 2x8GB CL16`&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3200Mhz PC-25600 2x8GB CL16` (Too fast for the motherboard?)&#xD;&#xA; - `Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3466Mhz PC-27700 2x8GB CL16` (Too fast for the motherboard?)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My concern is that even though the new motherboard supports 2666/2400/2133 MHz, my older RAM runs at 2133MHz and it will be different compared to the new RAM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this a compatibility problem ?.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-H110M-S2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48520" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13306" RevisionGUID="fd0cc07a-d14d-4276-8685-25bac0a865e7" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:03:24.830" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 79 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is there a compatibility problem with these RAM modules at different speeds?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13305" RevisionGUID="51916f7b-ede9-4073-98b0-1cbe15f0419f" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:04:16.570" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="I want to buy an external drive to run SSD, without touching my Windows HDD. However, this is a little investment so I am wondering if you can answer my few questions. Here are my laptop specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Intel Core i3&#xD;&#xA; - 6GB RAM&#xD;&#xA; - 1 To HDD (Windows 10)&#xD;&#xA; - No graphic card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Honestly, it runs very slowly, 5-10 minutes to startup, ~1 minute to start Microsoft Word. This is not the best laptop but this is not the question here. The questions are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Is a HDD sufficient or it will run slowly as on Windows.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Can all external SSD run Ubuntu, or I have to buy one in particular&#xD;&#xA; 3. I am sure 256 GB is sufficient but are you sure it is? I would use Ubuntu time to time, for programming, and I won’t store any personnal data or whatever except code.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have already tried Dual Boot and it was good but I want another drive for Ubuntu now (don’t try to change my mind)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your answers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48522" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13305" RevisionGUID="51916f7b-ede9-4073-98b0-1cbe15f0419f" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:04:16.570" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is buying a SSD for Ubuntu a good deal?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48523" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13308" RevisionGUID="0796c02c-0379-4eae-919c-442aff687312" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:06:33.060" UserId="9825" Comment="added 305 characters in body" Text="*Is buying a SSD to run Ubuntu a good deal?* It is an excellent idea; I have six Ubuntu PCs and all were upgraded from HDD to SSD with no problem at all, and Ubuntu's performance is much better with the SSD. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If an SSD will work in Windows without any special Windows driver &#xD;&#xA;on that machine, it will work in Ubuntu. 50 GB would be adequate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To resolve the low performance issue, I would also review my motherboard manual to see if mixing the memory sizes is likely to cause a problem, for 6 GB means you have a 4 GB and a 2 GB memory module. Since they are different, perhaps their specs are also different, which can also limit performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48526" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="7f7f5816-8c50-498b-9c8d-27f8ecb7bde9" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:08:23.640" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="I have tried using multiple WiFi adapters (some USB, some mini-PCIe) as access points, but I can't get any of them to work on the 5 GHz band. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, no AC and no dual-band N. I've heard it may have something to do with firmware, but I'm not clear on the details. Does anyone know of a USB adapter that actually works as an AC access point in Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48527" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="7f7f5816-8c50-498b-9c8d-27f8ecb7bde9" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:08:23.640" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="Do USB wifi adapters exist that work as 802.11ac (5 GHz) access points?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48528" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13293" RevisionGUID="cadc315f-ae07-4808-836c-522d83b2db83" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:09:43.680" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I have a notebook PC with 2 micro-USB Type C ports and no other video output, and a PC with DVI and HDMI.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have two other monitors, both of them have HDMI, DVI, and VGA ports, and if I recall correctly, DisplayPort as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally I have a USB keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to buy some device that will be connected to all monitors and to the USB mouse / keyboard, and that will allow me to use both computers with the same keyboard / mouse, selecting witch monitor to use (also both) for each specific computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48529" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13288" RevisionGUID="60b24e51-e1b5-47f1-9eed-5beea434da47" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:10:54.870" UserId="9825" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="May I know whether Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering apps efficiently?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am using software such as MATLAB with simulink, STK, AutoCAD, solidworks, and ANSYS workbench.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a research student and my next laptop should be travel supportive, and fir within a budget of 500 Euros.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft Surface Book, i5, 6th generation 128 SSD, 8 GB RAM are the specs of this laptop. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48530" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13288" RevisionGUID="60b24e51-e1b5-47f1-9eed-5beea434da47" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:10:54.870" UserId="9825" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="Is the Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering apps efficiently?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48531" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13287" RevisionGUID="03f2d245-0bf9-4812-a069-f31202850925" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:12:21.057" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="Years back I bought the cheapest Logitech keyboard for my computer as I felt they &quot;are all the same!&quot;. I hadn't used it in a while, but since working from home now I'm using a lot and it has really dawned on me the last couple of weeks just how loud and stiff the keys are. I'm pretty certain my neighbour two doors down can here me tapping at the keys it's that loud. Each key feels like a brick when I'm pressing it so I really need to upgrade.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are people on here using or could recommend? I'll be primarily using it for programming, with some use of Photoshop and gaming at some point." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48532" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13287" RevisionGUID="03f2d245-0bf9-4812-a069-f31202850925" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:12:21.057" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body; edited title" Text="New keyboard for programming wanted" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48535" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="d26ae03b-acc2-494c-a528-324ecff95f19" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:14:51.697" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm looking for a recommendation of a quiet fan/heat sink for an AMD A8-3870K CPU on a Gigabyte [GA-A75M-UD2H][1] mobo. Mine is about 9 years old and it's getting loud.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I've cleaned dust out of the case, removed the CPU fan/heatsink, blown it out, and applied new thermal paste, yet I still have noise issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: As it is an older machine, I don't want to spend too much. If possible, I'd like to keep it around $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-A75M-UD2H-rev-10#ov" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48536" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13281" RevisionGUID="d26ae03b-acc2-494c-a528-324ecff95f19" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:14:51.697" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body; edited title" Text="New CPU Fan/Heat Sink recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48537" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="25a39a61-5b7c-4f3f-a4c9-362b402c1807" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:16:45.847" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body; edited title" Text="I’d like recommendations for an alternative to the Apple Magic keyboard which is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Cheaper (preferably under £50/$60)&#xD;&#xA; - Has a membrane keyboard&#xD;&#xA; - Does not have an extended layout (with a pad of numbers in the rightmost section of the keyboard) &#xD;&#xA; - Uses the QWERTY layout&#xD;&#xA; - For personal use&#xD;&#xA; - Not too noisy (but this is lower priority)&#xD;&#xA; - Wired or wireless are both OK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can touch-type at 70 WPM if that is of any use. I’m not particularly interested in gaming keyboards; I just want something that does the job.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for reading." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48538" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="25a39a61-5b7c-4f3f-a4c9-362b402c1807" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:16:45.847" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 86 characters in body; edited title" Text="Best alternatives to replace a keyboard for those seeking a cheaper option than the Apple Magic Keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48539" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13277" RevisionGUID="748fed32-898c-4a89-b589-2aa4c13b7791" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:19:27.367" UserId="9825" Comment="added 6 characters in body" Text="There are indeed fields of computing where Intel's X299 lineup still performs better than AMD's Ryzen 3000 series. And even offers better performance per dollar. Engineering/scientific simulations like CFD and FEA is one of these areas. Source: I have been working in this field for many years now.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You already mentioned the key specification here: memory bandwidth. AMDs Ryzen CPUs stop scaling at around 6-8 cores due to a lack of memory bandwidth when running parallel CFD codes. See for example the results here: https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel CPUs can draw a lot more power than their rated TDP for short periods of time. That's how turbo boost works. So can AMD CPUs. Unless you are overclocking heavily, you won't see 300W sustained power draw from an I9-10900X. Not even close https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Less than 50W idle power consumption for a whole system on an HEDT platform might be a bit optimistic. You will probably end up in the 70W range with a typical configuration. But this figure does not depend on the CPU alone. Motherboard, drives, GPU... all play a role here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why doesn't AMD release a Threadripper CPU with less than 24 cores, at a more reasonable price?  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can only speculate, and there will be a lot more reasons than I can come up with in a short paragraph. But one of the most important ones will be this: AMD is a relatively small company compared to Intel. So far, their goal is not to cover every niche possible with the perfect product. That was Intels goal. And let's face it: scientific and engineering computations on moderately priced workstation PCs is a niche application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More L3 cache is nice to have, but outside of edge-cases, it can not completely make up for a lack of memory bandwidth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw: if you are looking for a cheaper TR3000 alternative that better fits your requirements, AMD still has something in their lineup: Epyc 7302P. The CPU and the boards are not exactly cheap, but still much better value and higher total performance compared to the cheapest possible TR3000 build.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit**&#xD;&#xA;forgot to mention this: especially with your applications in mind, I would highly recommend faster memory than DDR4-2933 or DDR4-3200 for both AMD Ryzen 3000 and Intel Cascade Lake-X CPUs. DDR4-3600 is around the sweetspot for price/performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48540" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="22404347-c117-4e98-937f-be92e53211fb" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:20:46.787" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body; edited title" Text="Which is better for scientific and engineering computation/simulations, the Intel i9-10900X or the AMD R9-3950X? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The R9 has 6 more cores, whereas the i9 has doubled memory channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it possible that in many use cases R9's real performance is limited by DDR bandwidth?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9's TDP is 105W, i9's TDP is 165W, but there are rumors that i9's real power can be 300W+ at normal full load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the zero and light load whole system power consumption? Hope it is less than ~50W.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't know why all AMD's CPU with 4 memory channels are far more expensive or why doesn't AMD have a CPU with 4 memory channel with ~12 cores.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9 also have more cache: 72MB. https://images.anandtech.com/doci/15062/AMD%20Fall%20Desktop%20Announcement%20Briefing%20Deck-page-002.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;R9's DDR frequency is a higher than i9: 3200 VS 2933, DDR bandwith is 51GB/s VS 93GB/s&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48541" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13276" RevisionGUID="22404347-c117-4e98-937f-be92e53211fb" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:20:46.787" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body; edited title" Text="Choosing a CPU: Intel i9-109xx vs AMD R9-39xx" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13505" RevisionGUID="9eb31791-89cc-4a04-869f-fb04ec60445d" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:56:53.247" UserId="15850" Text="I'm wish to buy a new laptop. After some research, I ended up with two candidates. The prices almost don't affect, but I can't buy in my region both best CPU and GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found one laptop with CPU i9-8950HK (gen 8, 6 cores, clockspeed 2.9GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000, and one with CPU i9-9980HK (gen 9, 8 cores, clockspeed 2.4GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro T2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that I found that Quadro RTX is much more powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the computer for (primarily):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Game development.&#xD;&#xA; - Software development.&#xD;&#xA; - Machine learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both GPUs are very OK for game development. But if I understand correctly the Quadro RTX is better for ML.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I ask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - How much is gen 9 better than gen 8, also consider 8-cores vs. 6-cores but higher clockspeed?&#xD;&#xA; - Is the difference between the CPUs will affect more than the difference between the GPUs? Note that if I cannot do ML with Quadro T2000 there's no choice and I'll but the first laptop - ML is mandatory, but all three usages are equal in need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the computers are roughly equal I prefer the second because of the weight (1.78kg vs 2.6kg)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48543" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13505" RevisionGUID="9eb31791-89cc-4a04-869f-fb04ec60445d" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:56:53.247" UserId="15850" Text="Which Laptop Should I Prefer: i9-8950HK with NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000 or i9-9980HK with NVIDIA Quadro T2000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48544" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13505" RevisionGUID="9eb31791-89cc-4a04-869f-fb04ec60445d" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:56:53.247" UserId="15850" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48545" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13505" RevisionGUID="77048b1f-297a-487a-946c-0e71c008681a" CreationDate="2020-05-20T22:50:31.933" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 13 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a new laptop and after some research, I have two candidates. The prices almost match, but I can't buy both best CPU and GPU in my region.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found one laptop with CPU i9-8950HK (gen 8, 6 cores, clockspeed 2.9GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000, and one with CPU i9-9980HK (gen 9, 8 cores, clockspeed 2.4GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro T2000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that I found that Quadro RTX is much more powerful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need the computer for (primarily):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Game development.&#xD;&#xA; - Software development.&#xD;&#xA; - Machine learning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both GPUs are very OK for game development. But if I understand correctly the Quadro RTX is better for ML.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I ask:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - How much is gen 9 better than gen 8, also consider 8-cores vs. 6-cores but higher clockspeed?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Is the difference between the CPUs will affect more than the difference between the GPUs? Note that if I cannot do ML with Quadro T2000 there's no choice and I'll but the first laptop - ML is mandatory, but all three usages are equal in need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the computers are roughly equal I prefer the second because of the weight (1.78kg vs 2.6kg)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13506" RevisionGUID="39ba0e83-a486-424a-8cef-105f9d5b53cc" CreationDate="2020-05-20T23:01:00.187" UserId="9825" Text="Here's comparisons of the two CPUs which show the superiority of the i9-9880HK:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://versus.com/en/intel-core-i9-8950hk-vs-intel-core-i9-9880h&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Core-i9-9980HK-vs-Intel-Core-i9-8950HK/3451vs3246&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.notebookcheck.net/8950HK-vs-9980HK-vs-9880H_9900_11341_11348.247596.0.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And comparisons of the T2000 (Notebook) to the RTX 3000 (Notebook) show the advantage of the GDDR6 RAM in the latter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.notebookcheck.net/Quadro-T2000-Laptop-vs-Quadro-RTX-3000-Laptop_9858_9854.247598.0.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://technical.city/en/video/Quadro-RTX-3000-mobile-vs-Quadro-T2000-Max-Q  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48553" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13508" RevisionGUID="63208d55-07ef-498a-ad61-33b90131376a" CreationDate="2020-05-21T05:48:14.483" UserId="15576" Text="The CD/DVD RW Drive dimensions in Dell Inspiron N5110 laptop are **128(W) x 12.7(H) x 126.1(D) mm**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Model No. is **DS-8ACSH**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More Info. can be found from this official link: **http://www.liteonodd.com/datasheet/DS-8ACSH_Datasheet_EN.pdf**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many people were not sure about the right size of caddy for Dell N5110. **Hope this helps.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**The right caddy height is 12.7 mm**." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48556" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13509" RevisionGUID="cdec45cf-133a-4dfd-b359-8b635963921b" CreationDate="2020-05-21T10:40:12.643" UserId="7098" Text="I have a Logitech set: mouse (M185) + keyboard (K270). It uses a pre-Unifying receiver (this is how I understand it), one for both mouse and keyboard. I would like to replace the mouse with some other (with more than 3 buttons) but I would like to leave the same receiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are Logitech wireless mice that are using a non-Unifying receiver (and are not Bluetooth) and have more than 3 buttons? How can I find them? I didn't find a way to filter by the type of receiver…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also did tests with a Unifying mouse and the Unifying Software does not see my keyboard while the Logitech Connection Utility (this is how the software for pairing these non-Unifying devices is called) does not see the mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48557" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13509" RevisionGUID="cdec45cf-133a-4dfd-b359-8b635963921b" CreationDate="2020-05-21T10:40:12.643" UserId="7098" Text="Logitech wireless mouse with non-Unifying receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48558" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13509" RevisionGUID="cdec45cf-133a-4dfd-b359-8b635963921b" CreationDate="2020-05-21T10:40:12.643" UserId="7098" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13509" RevisionGUID="11c3615a-a936-48b6-848f-4d2b7bff1b8d" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:26:58.317" UserId="9825" Comment="Edited for clarity" Text="I have a Logitech set: mouse (M185) + keyboard (K270). It uses a pre-Unifying receiver (this is how I understand it), one for both mouse and keyboard. I would like to replace the mouse with some other (with more than 3 buttons) but I would like to leave the same receiver.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which Logitech mice are: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - wireless &#xD;&#xA; - use a non-Unifying receiver&#xD;&#xA; - not Bluetooth, and &#xD;&#xA; - have more than 3 buttons? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I find them? I didn't find a way to filter by the type of receiver…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also did tests with a Unifying mouse and the Unifying Software does not see my keyboard while the Logitech Connection Utility (this is how the software for pairing these non-Unifying devices is called) does not see the mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48560" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13509" RevisionGUID="11c3615a-a936-48b6-848f-4d2b7bff1b8d" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:26:58.317" UserId="9825" Comment="Edited for clarity" Text="Want Logitech multi-button wireless non-Bluetooth mouse with non-Unifying receiver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48561" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13510" RevisionGUID="2503d830-506a-456d-94fb-3162d4f628df" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:34:40.563" UserId="9825" Text="A manual search was required to find:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[G305][1]  &#xD;&#xA;[G502][2]  &#xD;&#xA;[G604][3]   &#xD;&#xA;[G703][4]  &#xD;&#xA;[G903][5]  &#xD;&#xA;[Pro Gaming][6]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/g305-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse.910-005280.html#product-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/g502-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse.910-005565.html#product-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/g604-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse.910-005622.html#product-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/g703-hero-wireless-gaming-mouse.910-005638.html#product-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/g903-hero-wireless-gaming-mouse.910-005670.html#product-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mice/pro-wireless-mouse.910-005270.html#product-tech-specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48562" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="29da3c5d-3d55-4a13-93eb-5a32d06a55da" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:59:26.720" UserId="9825" Comment="added 214 characters in body; edited title" Text="I will buy a new laptop for some development purposes. My currently laptop lags so freaking much as once opening an AVD (Android Emulator) it freezes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My objective is currently Android and AI development, but later on I would probably do game development too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am considering this [Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T 2019][1] [vendor link][2]. As from specs I see these important features that actually impressed me:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 12 hour battery life&#xD;&#xA; 2. [10th gen core i7 processor 1.3GHz (upto 3.9GHz Turbo)][3]&#xD;&#xA; 3. 16 GB of DDR4X ram, 512 GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; 4. 989 grams of weight&#xD;&#xA; 5. Touch IPS display&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only downside I saw about this is that it does not comes with a dedicated Graphic card. It comes with *Intel Iris Plus Graphics* from the APU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So will this laptop work for my case, won't it? I think not having a dedicated graphic card might actually result in lag, but I am not entirely sure if it will or not? So question is will it run smoothly?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, what are other laptops available with a dedicated graphic card, competing with the Acer Swift 5?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.HHUAA.001&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Acer-SF514-54T-i7-1065G7-processor-Integrated/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/196597/intel-core-i7-1065g7-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48563" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13007" RevisionGUID="29da3c5d-3d55-4a13-93eb-5a32d06a55da" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:59:26.720" UserId="9825" Comment="added 214 characters in body; edited title" Text="Is the Acer Swift 5 laptop fit for Android development?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48564" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13011" RevisionGUID="99526315-1ff7-471e-9aad-0d7603bb099d" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:00:46.940" UserId="9825" Comment="added 54 characters in body" Text="Assuming you are using Android Studio, yes, the laptop will work well for it. My only concern would be that the laptop may run hot or even overheat because I don't see any large cooling fans on the CPU/GPU, but other than that concern, it would work well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It meets all of the requirements for Android Studio:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;OS: Microsoft Windows 7 or higher  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 4GB  &#xD;&#xA;Disk: 2GB of available disk space  &#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1280 x 800p  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;Recommended:   &#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 8GB  &#xD;&#xA;Disk: 8GB or more  &#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1920 x 1080p  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;The Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T (2019):  &#xD;&#xA;OS: Windows 10  &#xD;&#xA;RAM: 16GB  &#xD;&#xA;Disk: 500GB  &#xD;&#xA;Screen Resolution: 1920 * 1080p (Full HD/FHD)  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48565" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13021" RevisionGUID="02e9cac6-fbca-4de2-b5fe-b3675954df85" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:04:07.163" UserId="9825" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="After a quick search, I found these battery devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM 18W POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000][1]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM 45W POWER BANK ROVER 20.000][2]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000 (LIGHTNING)][3]&#xD;&#xA; - [XTORM POWER BANK ROVER 20.000 (LIGHTNING)][4]&#xD;&#xA; - [AIDEAZ Wireless Power Bank 20000mAh Portable Charger][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are others [mophie powerstation USB-C 3XL Battery][6] with one USB-C as output, and another one as input (in order to charge the PowerBank), I am not sure if that suits you: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-18w-power-bank-apollo-15-000/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-45w-power-bank-rover-20-000/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-apollo-15-000-lightning-/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-rover-20-000-lightning-/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.amazon.com/AIDEAZ-Wireless-20000mAh-Ultra-Compact-Compatible/dp/B07DWLWLC9&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/HM8X2ZM/A/mophie-powerstation-usb-c-3xl-battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48566" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13000" RevisionGUID="ac2f0211-b0a0-4829-8523-62237d36cc49" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:05:29.467" UserId="9825" Comment="added 25 characters in body" Text="Are there power banks with two USB type C ports?  &#xD;&#xA;Preferably 20,000 mAH capacity, but 10,000 mAH would also be fine.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about USB type A or micro USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48567" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="d972c112-c243-4c80-975c-6d172fe7d824" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:10:23.387" UserId="9825" Comment="added 7 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="My current printer is an HP Color LaserJet 2550L. It has worked great for a long time, but now it decided to [not print at all anymore][1]. I'm not too sure why that would be but I have been having more and more problems with it and it can't print large images (probably because it's limited to 64 MB of RAM, which in 2004 seemed like quite a bit already).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a new multi-function printer and want recommendations. Here are the specifications I'm interested in:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Works great on Ubuntu 18.04+&#xD;&#xA;* Color Laser (no inkjet, please)&#xD;&#xA;* Multifunction - Printer, Fax, Scan, Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Duplex Scan and Copy&#xD;&#xA;* Two Sided Printing&#xD;&#xA;* Automatic Scan&#xD;&#xA;* Separate Color Toners&#xD;&#xA;* Standard Paper Size (US Letter/A4)&#xD;&#xA;* Internal Paper Feeder (at least 100 pages)&#xD;&#xA;* Output bin should support at least 20 pages&#xD;&#xA;* Connect by Ethernet and/or USB (no WiFi/Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;* Budget around $500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I mean by &quot;automatic scan&quot; is a way to be able to scan an entire stack at once (for example, place all the pages of a contract in the machine and push one button).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Copy feature should work on its own (no computer involved); like any photocopier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fax is really not that important.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://askubuntu.com/questions/1214166/all-of-a-sudden-my-hp-laserjet-2550l-decided-to-stop-printing-any-idea-what-c" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48568" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="d972c112-c243-4c80-975c-6d172fe7d824" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:10:23.387" UserId="9825" Comment="added 7 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="Want recommendations for new Laser Color Printer for Ubuntu 18.04+" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48569" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="12999" RevisionGUID="d972c112-c243-4c80-975c-6d172fe7d824" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:10:23.387" UserId="9825" Comment="added 7 characters in body; edited tags; edited title" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;printer&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;&lt;laser&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12996" RevisionGUID="fb15870c-030a-4e90-b715-60d27c79ebb5" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:13:10.163" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 49 characters in body" Text="I want to buy a flatbed scanner in the US. I have an ongoing need to scan many large rigid items, and compare colors between scans. This is my criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Consistent color, brightness, contrast etc. between scans. (I will elaborate below, see 'Consistency')**&#xD;&#xA; - Scan rigid non-flexible items (i.e., a glass flat bed, not a feed through solution)&#xD;&#xA; - 6 x 12 inch media (e.g., a legal size flat bed scanner will do).&#xD;&#xA; - Rapid Scanning (a strong plus). The ability to rapidly scan 100 to 200 thick rigid items in a relatively short amount of time is not necessary but a strong plus. Note: the media is extremely rigid and could be up to around 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.&#xD;&#xA; - Auto-Cropping? I don't know if this feature even exists, but I need to crop each photo to remove the background of these perfectly-rectangle items.  Perhaps this is better approached through a software solution. &#xD;&#xA; - Budget: Under $250 or maybe higher for something I really like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Consistency:**&#xD;&#xA;This is for an ongoing series of art projects. I need to do color comparisons of the scanned items. I'm afraid that the software with the scanner that I will buy will adjust the color, contrast, brightness, etc with each scan and thus I won't have the ability to do comparisons of the various colors in each scanned item. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48571" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12987" RevisionGUID="2a2a9df3-a35d-4b93-b99d-c55bd3ee5e1c" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:15:26.750" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for a good mouse device for my son around but it's not so easy to find a PC/laptop mouse which is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- ergonomic and lightweight&#xD;&#xA;- small for a 12 yrs person (okay the hand will start growing)&#xD;&#xA;- wireless&#xD;&#xA;- designed for a left-handed person&#xD;&#xA;- robust&#xD;&#xA;- long battery life&#xD;&#xA;- not necessarily special gaming features but, of course, nice to have&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can be of some alternative ergonomic design if it feels well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Budget: up to $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48572" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="f37192e1-ca28-4317-9d5b-8588576b0184" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:18:46.073" UserId="9825" Comment="added 64 characters in body; edited title" Text="I strongly prefer to use a track point instead of track pad or mouse. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only nitpick I find is that it is positioned between the G and H keys. I'd prefer it to be between the F and G keys (as a left-hander). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any keyboards, from Lenovo on laptops or others, external keyboards, that place the track point between F and G (for left handed people) or between H and J (for the right handed)? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48573" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="f37192e1-ca28-4317-9d5b-8588576b0184" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:18:46.073" UserId="9825" Comment="added 64 characters in body; edited title" Text="Want keyboard with track point device between F and G keys, or between H and J" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48574" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13474" RevisionGUID="782c3df6-4319-48c5-a9d2-f3710b16b8ba" CreationDate="2020-05-21T16:44:31.483" UserId="9825" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="A.  Gigabyte Tech Support asks you to contact them to obtain the Z390AORUSPROGA9.zip BIOS and apply it to your existing motherboard. See https://pastebin.com/uqYt3rmx for details of their response. I regret I can't provide a direct link to the BIOS update file they suggested, so you have to contact them to get it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;B. Gigabyte TS replied and suggested their [ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING][1] which is [US$190][2], but is not available right now at NewEggUK.  See https://pastebin.com/SZw4Rfw0 for their suggestion and contact information on item B.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would make sure to contact Gigabyte yourself and confirm this product meets all of your specifications, and make sure your vendor will accept a no charge return if it does not.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A week later, no other vendors queried have replied to my question regarding your specifications. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z390-H-GAMING/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-z390-h-gaming/p/N82E16813119158" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48575" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13511" RevisionGUID="bbe64a0f-a8fd-44f2-8042-2be70ce03156" CreationDate="2020-05-21T20:48:02.460" UserId="3714" Text="I'm looking for a pair of true wireless earbuds that I can use with my (Linux) PC and my Android (Pixel 3) phone.  Money is no object, but having all the features I need is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I need to be able to pair with both my PC and my phone without hassle switching between them.  It seems like a lot of earbuds do this&#xD;&#xA;* I need microphone input so I can talk on the phone. It appears that most earbuds have this.&#xD;&#xA;* I need decent phone quality especially when outdoors where it might be windy.  A few devices explicitly mention this, some allude to it, and others don't say.&#xD;&#xA;* Google Assistant integration.  I believe this rules out stuff like Apple's Airpod Pros&#xD;&#xA;* Active and Passive Noise cancellation that can be switched off with a pass through of ambient sounds if desired.  Strangely, a lot of earbuds omit one or both.&#xD;&#xA;* A rating of at least IPX54&#xD;&#xA;* low headset latency is highly preferred so for instance if I'm gaming the sound is not out of sync with the screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's issues I have found with earbuds I have researched so far. Note that for some devices I have no data on whether they meet certain requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sennheiser Momentum True Wireless 2 - doesn't support hassle free pairing with multiple devices, has excessive latency (300ms)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Pixel Buds (2020) - no noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony WF-1000XM3 - no IPX rating&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jabra Elite Active 75t - no active noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Huawei Freebuds 3 and Huawei Freebuds 3i - the noise cancellation seems to be lacking on the 3 model, while the 3i is inferior to the 3 in many of the specs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48576" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13511" RevisionGUID="bbe64a0f-a8fd-44f2-8042-2be70ce03156" CreationDate="2020-05-21T20:48:02.460" UserId="3714" Text="true wireless ear bud that has it all" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48577" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13511" RevisionGUID="bbe64a0f-a8fd-44f2-8042-2be70ce03156" CreationDate="2020-05-21T20:48:02.460" UserId="3714" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48578" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13512" RevisionGUID="cf7368d6-c052-4f96-91b4-7ec7039e3ecd" CreationDate="2020-05-21T22:56:16.657" UserId="15765" Text="I am looking for an oscilloscope which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- fits in my pants pocket (so maximum 14x8x3 cm, less preferred)&#xD;&#xA;- has FFT for spectrum&#xD;&#xA;- can save waveform&#xD;&#xA;- has analog bandwidth 10MHz or more&#xD;&#xA;- is ready to use seperately (without an USB Host)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48579" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13512" RevisionGUID="cf7368d6-c052-4f96-91b4-7ec7039e3ecd" CreationDate="2020-05-21T22:56:16.657" UserId="15765" Text="Oscilloscope for pants pocket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48580" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13512" RevisionGUID="cf7368d6-c052-4f96-91b4-7ec7039e3ecd" CreationDate="2020-05-21T22:56:16.657" UserId="15765" Text="&lt;signal-processing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13513" RevisionGUID="5636c68c-5702-4473-a074-6ee576724021" CreationDate="2020-05-21T23:20:21.927" UserId="9825" Text="If it's acceptable to use a shoephone with it, the [Pokit Meter][1] looks handy. It and a phone (Apple iOS 10+, Android OS 5+ (Lollipop)) together would fit in your defined pocketspace, and it meets all other criteria.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pokitmeter.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48582" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13019" RevisionGUID="c01da96c-a59d-4b23-b0e3-f6d4aafd94d5" CreationDate="2020-05-22T00:08:30.817" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48583" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13513" RevisionGUID="787523e5-1975-4061-9890-8dbf6bfc3c1c" CreationDate="2020-05-22T02:15:55.130" UserId="9825" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="If it's acceptable to use a shoephone with it, the [Pokit Meter][1] looks handy. It and a phone (Apple iOS 10+, Android OS 5+ (Lollipop)) together would fit in your defined pocketspace, and it meets all other criteria, including an analog bandwidth of 500mHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pokitmeter.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48584" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="f3c884be-6bce-434f-9e29-23c5d4784f08" CreationDate="2020-05-22T04:04:35.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13511" RevisionGUID="a3a73f4a-2c6d-4ae5-83c2-5a8f46e6532f" CreationDate="2020-05-22T16:21:49.117" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a pair of true wireless earbuds that I can use with my (Linux) PC and my Android (Pixel 3) phone.  Money is no object, but having all the features I need is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I need to be able to pair with both my PC and my phone without hassle switching between them.  It seems like a lot of earbuds do this&#xD;&#xA;* I need microphone input so I can talk on the phone. It appears that most earbuds have this.&#xD;&#xA;* I need decent phone quality especially when outdoors where it might be windy.  A few devices explicitly mention this, some allude to it, and others don't say.&#xD;&#xA;* Google Assistant integration.  I believe this rules out stuff like Apple's Airpod Pros&#xD;&#xA;* Active and Passive Noise cancellation that can be switched off with a pass through of ambient sounds if desired.  Strangely, a lot of earbuds omit one or both.&#xD;&#xA;* A rating of at least IP54&#xD;&#xA;* low headset latency is highly preferred so for instance if I'm gaming the sound is not out of sync with the screen&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's issues I have found with earbuds I have researched so far. Note that for some devices I have no data on whether they meet certain requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sennheiser Momentum True Wireless 2 - doesn't support hassle free pairing with multiple devices, has excessive latency (300ms)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Pixel Buds (2020) - no noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony WF-1000XM3 - no IPX rating&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jabra Elite Active 75t - no active noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Huawei Freebuds 3 and Huawei Freebuds 3i - the noise cancellation seems to be lacking on the 3 model, while the 3i is inferior to the 3 in many of the specs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13516" RevisionGUID="c443904b-a038-4467-b022-924465e6351a" CreationDate="2020-05-22T17:16:33.877" UserId="15849" Text="4D Systems offers [many different displays][1]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The key advantages are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * They offer an RS485 &quot;plugin&quot; for the display ([MOTG-RS485][2]). &#xD;&#xA; * An IDE suite of software to program and configure the UI of the Display ([Workshop4 IDE][3]).&#xD;&#xA; * Provide [documentation][4] on how to get the board working.&#xD;&#xA; * Provide &quot;[Starter Kits][5]&quot; to make getting started easy.&#xD;&#xA; * Are reasonably priced, with volume discounts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/motg-modules/motg-rs485&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://4dsystems.com.au/workshop4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/gen4-ulcd-24dt&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/starter-kits&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqNvI.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48603" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13518" RevisionGUID="000f589b-653d-4c59-b3a9-4482c6dd97fc" CreationDate="2020-05-22T18:59:56.603" UserId="5252" Text="I'm looking into bias lighting for behind my monitor. I would prefer a device that has HDMI passthru since I plug in a few different devices (laptop, Nintendo Switch, etc.). The monitor is 2560x1080. I really don't like the idea of camera-based bias lighting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this company](https://lightpack.tv/) which looks pretty good, but I don't know if their &quot;HD&quot; device works with that aspect ratio/resolution. Their support contact also doesn't seem to like replying (both the form and email).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To summarize:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- RGB Bias lighting kit&#xD;&#xA;- HDMI passthru&#xD;&#xA;- support for 2560x1080 resolution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48604" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13518" RevisionGUID="000f589b-653d-4c59-b3a9-4482c6dd97fc" CreationDate="2020-05-22T18:59:56.603" UserId="5252" Text="RGB bias lighting with HDMI passthru for ultrawide monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48605" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13518" RevisionGUID="000f589b-653d-4c59-b3a9-4482c6dd97fc" CreationDate="2020-05-22T18:59:56.603" UserId="5252" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48609" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13520" RevisionGUID="7e231478-3c50-44e6-b3c4-44c3b18d1c25" CreationDate="2020-05-22T19:19:14.803" UserId="9825" Text="An alternative using HDMI pass-through and RGB strips which are not camera-based includes [Ambivision][3] (their [Kickstarter campaign][4]). The [AmbiVision FAQ][5] says it will work with all signals. Their email is [support@ambivision.tv][6] and their Skype is labteam.innovations .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A computer-only alternative is [AmbiLED HD][1] (their [Kickstarter campaign][2]) but it does not use HDMI passthrough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://flytron.com/electronic-parts/284-ambiled-hd-ambient-light-kit-for-computer-monitors.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1410893208/ambiled-hd-high-definition-ambient-light&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ambivision.tv/shop/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ambivision-standalone-ambient-lighting-device#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ambivision.tv/faq/#Features&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://mailto:support@ambivision.tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48611" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="404806c0-1ec7-4050-acc6-5b753c607324" CreationDate="2020-05-22T20:06:20.700" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48612" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="13520" RevisionGUID="0b919607-1dc8-4cee-99d6-26b86b66fdd1" CreationDate="2020-05-22T20:36:55.117" UserId="9825" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48613" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13520" RevisionGUID="b7f55840-3f13-4a77-a358-5e5eda13324d" CreationDate="2020-05-22T20:38:04.943" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 69 characters in body" Text="No alternative found using HDMI pass-through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A camera-based alternative is [Ambivision][3] (their [Kickstarter campaign][4]). . Their email is [support@ambivision.tv][6] and their Skype is labteam.innovations .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A computer-only alternative is [AmbiLED HD][1] (their [Kickstarter campaign][2]) but it does not use HDMI passthrough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://flytron.com/electronic-parts/284-ambiled-hd-ambient-light-kit-for-computer-monitors.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1410893208/ambiled-hd-high-definition-ambient-light&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ambivision.tv/shop/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ambivision-standalone-ambient-lighting-device#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ambivision.tv/faq/#Features&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://mailto:support@ambivision.tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48614" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="13520" RevisionGUID="f21a3602-1c3d-4175-b15b-36894299db22" CreationDate="2020-05-22T20:39:02.380" UserId="9825" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:9825,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;K7AAY&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="48615" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="0a4ecdb1-367a-4030-806e-ec83cb63cd63" CreationDate="2020-05-22T21:06:35.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48616" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13520" RevisionGUID="6b55f3dd-d181-4e4d-96dc-92bad80d1351" CreationDate="2020-05-22T21:19:52.513" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="No alternative found using HDMI pass-through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A camera-based alternative is [Ambivision][3] (their [Kickstarter campaign][4]). Their email is [support@ambivision.tv][6]; their Skype is labteam.innovations .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A computer-only alternative is [AmbiLED HD][1] (their [Kickstarter campaign][2]) but it does not use HDMI passthrough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://flytron.com/electronic-parts/284-ambiled-hd-ambient-light-kit-for-computer-monitors.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1410893208/ambiled-hd-high-definition-ambient-light&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ambivision.tv/shop/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ambivision-standalone-ambient-lighting-device#/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ambivision.tv/faq/#Features&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://mailto:support@ambivision.tv" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48630" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13521" RevisionGUID="abed0fd1-48d3-465e-8079-49186f939eef" CreationDate="2020-05-23T10:48:14.723" UserId="14518" Text="I would go for the &quot;[Razer Deathadder Left-Handed Edition][1]&quot;.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been using it for many years now and it still works like a charm. It's great for gaming as well as regular school work. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Read PCGamer's test on [the best left-handed mouse for gaming][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find it for around $40-70 at e.g. [Insight][3] or [AliExpress][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.razer.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder-left-hand-edition&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.pcgamer.com/the-best-left-handed-mouse-for-gaming-for-2019/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.insight.com/en_US/shop/product/RZ01-00151700-W1M1/RAZERUSA/RZ01-00151700-W1M1/RazerDeathAdder-LeftHandEdition-mouse-left-handed-infrared-5buttons-wired-USB/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000256430813.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48637" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13350" RevisionGUID="b2dd2fd0-b0b2-4291-9e1e-9189c189d0b8" CreationDate="2020-05-23T16:01:40.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13524" RevisionGUID="cd007a58-2c59-40ef-81ed-973eb1f5095e" CreationDate="2020-05-24T12:32:16.977" UserId="15865" Text="I've had a couple of shredders in the past, [this AmazonBasics one][1] being the most recent. They both broke, and as far as I can tell for the same reason: The optical sensor died. This means that the shredder mechanism works perfectly, except it can't tell that a paper is being pushed in the hole, and therefore it never activates the engine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've had some luck with cleaning the optical sensor using an alcohol pad, but that doesn't always work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm sick of this problem. I want a shredder that: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Is not dependent on an optical sensor. It's okay for it to have one, as long as there's a manual override, so the shredder doesn't go to the trash if the sensor is broken.&#xD;&#xA;2. Is high-security. None of those long paper strips that can be reassembled into a document. I believe that [level 4][2] is reasonable.&#xD;&#xA;3. Supports a 220 volt power connection.&#xD;&#xA;4. Is not too expensive hopefully.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of a shredder that meets these criteria?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000S6I9BI/ref=pe_385721_51767431_TE_dp_1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.the-shredder-warehouse.com/security-level" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48644" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13524" RevisionGUID="cd007a58-2c59-40ef-81ed-973eb1f5095e" CreationDate="2020-05-24T12:32:16.977" UserId="15865" Text="High-security shredder that doesn't depend on optical sensors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48645" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13524" RevisionGUID="cd007a58-2c59-40ef-81ed-973eb1f5095e" CreationDate="2020-05-24T12:32:16.977" UserId="15865" Text="&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48651" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13513" RevisionGUID="e0871712-a910-474f-a75d-93707938f6b5" CreationDate="2020-05-24T22:26:56.853" UserId="9825" Comment="edited body" Text="If it's acceptable to use a shoephone with it, the [Pokit Meter][1] looks handy. It and a phone (Apple iOS 10+, Android OS 5+ (Lollipop)) together would fit in your defined pocketspace, and it meets all other criteria, including an analog bandwidth of 500MHz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pokitmeter.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48652" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13371" RevisionGUID="4c206921-f10a-4623-8085-c62966530db9" CreationDate="2020-05-25T00:04:35.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48653" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="8be6732d-85b4-48ee-a74b-5c3aadbbc64c" CreationDate="2020-05-25T01:01:15.097" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48658" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13526" RevisionGUID="66e407ff-2fd4-4a9a-ba7d-2d6b55afc865" CreationDate="2020-05-25T11:50:28.090" UserId="15871" Text="I have the following problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 5.1 surround sound system using a sony av receiver. This is connected to multiple devices for audio, including my PC. Since the pc is a little bit far away from the av receiver and there are power cables along the way I decided to connect the pc with an optical cable (SPDIF) to the av receiver. This works, but unfortunately the driver for the onboard sound card of my mainboard is not capable of using the digital output for surround sound. All I get is stereo. I dont want to use the analog jacks, as they would need to be at least 5m long and run right next to mains power cables. Using the analog jacks would also require 3 cables instead of just one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for a relatively cheap (&lt;100€) sound card for the pc that can be used for at least 5.1 surround sound over optical. This needs to work with windows 10 and linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Please only suggest things available in europe." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48659" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13526" RevisionGUID="66e407ff-2fd4-4a9a-ba7d-2d6b55afc865" CreationDate="2020-05-25T11:50:28.090" UserId="15871" Text="Searching a sound card with 5.1 optical for windows 10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48660" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13526" RevisionGUID="66e407ff-2fd4-4a9a-ba7d-2d6b55afc865" CreationDate="2020-05-25T11:50:28.090" UserId="15871" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;sound-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48670" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13529" RevisionGUID="47c551db-7aaa-4e11-988b-597fd59effa1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T23:17:33.610" UserId="9588" Text="These small splitters should be avoided at all costs. As Benson Leung's [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/emf9yk/psa_avoid_usbc_ysplit_cables_or_adapters_evil/) explains&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; There are no active components inside. It bridges many pins (power, data, gnd, cc) among the three USB-C connectors). What this means is that your phone or laptop can negotiated much higher voltage than vSafe5V, and that will just magically show up on the other USB-C receptacle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;If the other USB-C receptacle has a headphone or a USB-C thumbdrive or a USB-C Yubikey that is only 5V tolerant, it will be destroyed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A later [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/gpmdz7/can_i_use_a_usbc_hub_to_connect_usb_mousekeyboard/fro2cu4/) by someone much less famous but nonetheless correct:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A proper adapter would need a buck converter for 5V, a power switch on the downstream data port, and two USB PD interfaces with good firmware that implements proper derating. Essentially a full blown charge-through hub." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48678" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="4773dee3-bc80-49b2-bd68-bbe9079cf150" CreationDate="2020-05-26T04:06:35.720" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48692" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="0f6f26a1-0d91-4836-9e3e-5a2ebd3efee2" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:16:50.303" UserId="15880" Text="I'm heading a research project in my robotics lab, and I'm looking for a small projector to affix to the top support structure of a [LoCoBot][1]. My plan is to have data/videos/images fed to the projector via the robot's local machine, so either HDMI or USB connection would work great. Lightweight with a small profile would be helpful so that it doesn't weigh the robot down. One that can be charged would be great, but there is also a battery on the robot to power the robot, so it could also be powered via USB from the battery or the robot's machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projector doesn't need to have a super far projection reach, &lt;= 20 ft or so. Tripod threading would be a plus. The robot is running Ubuntu 16.04, so the projector would need to be compatible with Linux. I wasn't able to find many examples online of using projectors with ROS, but if anyone knows of any projects or projectors that have been used, that would be helpful!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.locobot.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48693" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="0f6f26a1-0d91-4836-9e3e-5a2ebd3efee2" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:16:50.303" UserId="15880" Text="Small projector for affixing to a robot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48694" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="0f6f26a1-0d91-4836-9e3e-5a2ebd3efee2" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:16:50.303" UserId="15880" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="059ed74c-3d24-42ea-a7e6-e75c2c00185e" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:22:58.633" UserId="9825" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="I'm heading a research project in my robotics lab, and I'm looking for a small projector to affix to the top support structure of a [LoCoBot][1]. My plan is to have data/videos/images fed to the projector via the robot's local machine, so either HDMI or USB connection would work great. Lightweight with a small profile would be helpful so that it doesn't weigh the robot down. One that can be charged would be great, but there is also a battery on the robot to power the robot, so it could also be powered via USB from the battery or the robot's machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projector doesn't need to have a super far projection reach, &lt;= 20 ft or so. Tripod threading would be a plus. The robot is running Ubuntu 16.04, so the projector would need to be compatible with Linux. I wasn't able to find many examples online of using projectors with [ROS][2], but if anyone knows of any projects or projectors that have been used, that would be helpful!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.locobot.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ros.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13534" RevisionGUID="5616175d-0273-423d-b454-303b0cf88e56" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:32:21.980" UserId="9825" Text="An [iDeaPLAY P100B Wireless Pico Projector][1] weighs 12 ounces, has a tripod screw socket, has its own battery, recharges at 2A/5VDC, and will project a diagonal image of 37-110 inches with 100 lumens. Its native resolution is 854x480 so you would need to verify your onboard PC can deliver that resolution. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.frys.com/product/9988186" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48697" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="b91d63b2-9b7a-4c17-872b-0a82284b412a" CreationDate="2020-05-26T15:54:59.897" UserId="15880" Comment="Added details about resolution, battery, weight/profile specs." Text="I'm heading a research project in my robotics lab, and I'm looking for a small projector to affix to the top support structure of a [LoCoBot][1]. My plan is to have data/videos/images fed to the projector via the robot's local machine, so either HDMI or USB connection would work great. It would need to have a relatively small profile to fit comfortably on top of the robot's support structure, so something less than 7&quot;x4&quot;x5&quot; (lxwxh). Weight is not as critical and will likely be constrained by the dimensions. One that can be charged would be great, but there is also a battery on the robot to power the robot, so it could also be powered via USB from the battery or the robot's machine. The battery has four unused USB slots - two providing 2.1A and two providing 1.0A.&#xD;&#xA;Preferred resolution is XGA (1024x768 pixels, 4:3 aspect ratio).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The projector doesn't need to have a super far projection reach, &lt;= 20 ft or so. Tripod threading would be a plus. The robot is running Ubuntu 16.04, so the projector would need to be compatible with Linux. I wasn't able to find many examples online of using projectors with [ROS][2], but if anyone knows of any projects or projectors that have been used, that would be helpful! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The project is still in its workshopping phase, and I'm admittedly not much of a projector expert. Unless there exists a type of automatic or remote focusing I can do remotely by ssh-ing into the machine, we would likely have to manually focus the projection. I'm not sure what additional info about the PC would be helpful, let me know and I'll edit the post to provide that info. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.locobot.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.ros.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48699" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13534" RevisionGUID="3e5e435f-15a4-4191-8a31-425540a78ef6" CreationDate="2020-05-26T23:25:30.493" UserId="9825" Comment="added 102 characters in body" Text="An [iDeaPLAY P100B Wireless Pico Projector][1] is 3&quot;x3&quot;x2&quot;, weighs 12 ounces, has a tripod screw socket, has its own battery, recharges at 2A/5VDC, and will project a diagonal image of 37-110 inches with 100 lumens. Its native resolution is 854x480 so you would need to verify your onboard PC can deliver that resolution of [Senators from Alderaan][2] and other images. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.frys.com/product/9988186&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/1AgxjQCwhcShcPnB8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48700" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13534" RevisionGUID="17a341e8-ddd1-445b-b019-751623b0ade9" CreationDate="2020-05-26T23:34:27.590" UserId="9825" Comment="added 336 characters in body" Text="An [AAXA P2-B LED DLP Mini Cube Projector][1] is 3&quot;x3&quot;x2&quot;, weighs 12 ounces, has a tripod screw socket, has its own battery, recharges at 2A/5VDC, and will project a 130 lumen image of (diagonal) 150 inches or less (the smaller, the brighter). Its native resolution is 854x480 so you would need to verify your onboard PC can deliver that resolution of [Senators from Alderaan][2] and other images, but it does have a mini-HDMI port for compatibility.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/AAXA-P2-B-LED-Projector-Smartphone/dp/B075N25DS7/ref=pd_di_sccai_3/133-4969846-5887951?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B075N25DS7&amp;pd_rd_r=81b49ad0-f45d-469d-976b-3c0b93081992&amp;pd_rd_w=ahsLF&amp;pd_rd_wg=TlbHU&amp;pf_rd_p=61ce50cf-2379-4458-9044-fa8b402c702d&amp;pf_rd_r=RAQ4MN570NGZCHC4T39E&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=RAQ4MN570NGZCHC4T39E&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://images.app.goo.gl/1AgxjQCwhcShcPnB8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48702" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="13524" RevisionGUID="001fb5c8-b39a-4e90-afc5-a46ea7e1d0a5" CreationDate="2020-05-27T06:13:07.187" UserId="15865" Comment="96" />
  <row Id="48703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13535" RevisionGUID="5eb31d62-aa5f-4d3f-a411-a58adef6352f" CreationDate="2020-05-27T07:49:26.813" UserId="5563" Text="Without getting into the debate about whether AMD or Intel is better, I need to build a new developer machine.  I use a broad range of tools on primarily Windows.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things that probably matter:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1.  I run a couple of VMs at any given time.&#xD;&#xA;2.  I do Android development.  That includes using their device emulators.&#xD;&#xA;3.  I do some AI development, but I have a high end GPU to do the lifting.&#xD;&#xA;4.  I do heavy Visual Studio work which includes compiling large projects where source code lines can get into the 100k lines.&#xD;&#xA;5.  I will occasionally play a resource intense game, but it's infrequent.&#xD;&#xA;6.  I will occasionally transcode video files.&#xD;&#xA;7.  I have 3 4k monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need to choose a CPU, but I get lost in model numbers.  I recall there being issues with Android emulators and VirtualBox and AMD cpus.  Is that still a thing?  AMD or Intel?  Which model?  Cost isn't a serious issue, but I'd probably balk at a CPU over 1k.  I also don't want to spend 1k on a CPU that's more than I really need." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13535" RevisionGUID="5eb31d62-aa5f-4d3f-a411-a58adef6352f" CreationDate="2020-05-27T07:49:26.813" UserId="5563" Text="CPU for a developer machine" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13535" RevisionGUID="5eb31d62-aa5f-4d3f-a411-a58adef6352f" CreationDate="2020-05-27T07:49:26.813" UserId="5563" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48709" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13537" RevisionGUID="4d8b8da7-cd40-4cc1-a9da-89680fcd45ec" CreationDate="2020-05-27T10:07:05.630" UserId="15883" Text="I am looking for the smallest possible footprint PC Case to house the following components:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Standard ATX power supply - Corsair CX600M&#xD;&#xA; - Micro ATX motherboard - Gigabyte GA-A55M-DS2&#xD;&#xA; - Dual slot graphics card - MSI GeForce GTX 750Ti&#xD;&#xA; - 1 x 2.5&quot; SSD&#xD;&#xA; - 2 x 3.5&quot; HDD - although I would be willing to drop down to 1 x 3.5&quot; HDD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU Cooler and fan is only around 7cm high.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the case would be under £100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48710" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13537" RevisionGUID="4d8b8da7-cd40-4cc1-a9da-89680fcd45ec" CreationDate="2020-05-27T10:07:05.630" UserId="15883" Text="Smallest Footprint PC Case" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48711" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13537" RevisionGUID="4d8b8da7-cd40-4cc1-a9da-89680fcd45ec" CreationDate="2020-05-27T10:07:05.630" UserId="15883" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;case&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13538" RevisionGUID="197fe1dd-785b-416a-97c3-db70294e9181" CreationDate="2020-05-27T13:58:25.980" UserId="15885" Text="I want to do a little study where I need to analyze the behaviour of insects like flies, bees and mosquitos. For this, I want to attach at least one USB camera to my computer, in order to do live analysis operations on the video feed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need a camera that is able to capture the insects in indoor settings (distance up to 2 or 3 meters). Can anyone recommend a USB camera with sufficient quality that would be able to do that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48713" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13538" RevisionGUID="197fe1dd-785b-416a-97c3-db70294e9181" CreationDate="2020-05-27T13:58:25.980" UserId="15885" Text="USB Camera for filming insects" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48714" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13538" RevisionGUID="197fe1dd-785b-416a-97c3-db70294e9181" CreationDate="2020-05-27T13:58:25.980" UserId="15885" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13539" RevisionGUID="92bd147f-966e-463f-bef7-25ae35169aff" CreationDate="2020-05-27T15:44:45.610" UserId="15883" Text="Have you considered using a Raspberry Pi with a [camera][1]?  The camera can do 1080p at 30fps, 720p at 60 fps or VGA at 90fps so should hopefully be adequate quality for your application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can connect to the Raspberry Pi via Ethernet directly into your PC or connect to it remotely if it is on the same network as your PC. This would be a neat solution if you were to add multiple cameras. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/camera-module-v2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48717" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13539" RevisionGUID="59d7d8a1-8b1c-43f0-8be5-9349c8fa427c" CreationDate="2020-05-27T15:52:39.590" UserId="15883" Comment="Formatting" Text="Have you considered using a Raspberry Pi with a [camera][1]?  The camera can do 1080p at 30fps, 720p at 60fps or VGA at 90fps so should hopefully be adequate quality for your application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can connect to the Raspberry Pi via Ethernet directly into your PC or connect to it remotely if it is on the same network as your PC. This would be a neat solution if you were to add multiple cameras. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/camera-module-v2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48718" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13539" RevisionGUID="d114f1f4-917e-4606-bba4-8236976045b6" CreationDate="2020-05-27T17:26:13.920" UserId="9825" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="Have you considered using a Raspberry Pi with a [camera module][1]?  The camera can do 1080p at 30fps, 720p at 60fps or VGA at 90fps so should hopefully be adequate quality for your application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can connect to the Raspberry Pi via Ethernet directly into your PC or connect to it remotely if it is on the same network as your PC. This would be a neat solution if you were to add multiple cameras. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/camera-module-v2/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13540" RevisionGUID="9c0e5a7e-3757-4c5f-bc2b-681abd74b0eb" CreationDate="2020-05-27T18:42:54.390" UserId="9825" Text="The top end Intel i9 Core CPU today for your use is the $700 [i9-10900X][1] with   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 cores, 20 threads  &#xD;&#xA;4 memory channels   &#xD;&#xA;256 GB max RAM  &#xD;&#xA;48 PCIe lanes	 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best Intel CPU would be the [i9-10900KF][2] but the two added memory channels, doubled maximum RAM, and tripled number of PCIe lanes makes the **X** CPU really stand out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to competition from AMD, I don't believe the game-optimized $710 [Ryzen R9 3950X][3] would be that much more interesting. With only only half the maximum memory, half the number of memory channels, and only 20 PCIe lanes compared to the 48 PCie lanes of the Chipzilla powerhouse, the added features of slightly higher operating freq., increased L3 cache, two more cores/four more threads, and and ECC vs not, don't look that interesting to me.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe 4.0 vs 3.0 would look like advantage: Ryzen, if PCIe 4.0 drives were readily available at reasonable prices; but, they're not, doe it doesn't look meaningful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side-by-side comparisons [A][4]  [B][5]  [C][6]  [D][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/198019/intel-core-i9-10900x-x-series-processor-19-25m-cache-3-70-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/199331/intel-core-i9-10900kf-processor-20m-cache-up-to-5-30-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-3950x&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-10900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X/m969950vs4044&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_core_i9_10900x-969-vs-amd_ryzen_9_3950x-932&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/197/AMD_Ryzen_9_3950X_vs_Intel_Core_i9_i9-10900X.html&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://gadgetversus.com/processor/intel-core-i9-10900x-vs-amd-ryzen-9-3950x/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48720" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13540" RevisionGUID="f13474f3-a2bb-471e-a39c-7cffa3eecdf8" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:05:17.893" UserId="9825" Comment="added 227 characters in body" Text="The top end Intel i9 Core CPU today for your use is the $700 [i9-10900X][1] with   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 cores, 20 threads  &#xD;&#xA;4 memory channels   &#xD;&#xA;256 GB max RAM  &#xD;&#xA;48 PCIe lanes, and requires the&#xD;&#xA;[LGA2066][2] socket for its motherboard.	 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best Intel CPU would be the [i9-10900KF][3] but the two added memory channels, doubled maximum RAM, and tripled number of PCIe lanes makes the **X** CPU really stand out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to competition from AMD, I don't believe the game-optimized $710 [Ryzen R9 3950X][4] would be that much more interesting. With only only half the maximum memory, half the number of memory channels, and only 20 PCIe lanes compared to the 48 PCie lanes of the Chipzilla powerhouse, the added features of slightly higher operating freq., increased L3 cache, two more cores/four more threads, and and ECC vs not, don't look that interesting to me. But, itf you ike it, look for motherboards with an [AM4][5] CPU socket. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe 4.0 vs 3.0 would look like advantage: Ryzen, if PCIe 4.0 drives were readily available at reasonable prices; but, they're not, doe it doesn't look meaningful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side-by-side comparisons [A][6]  [B][7]  [C][8]  [D][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/198019/intel-core-i9-10900x-x-series-processor-19-25m-cache-3-70-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2066&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/199331/intel-core-i9-10900kf-processor-20m-cache-up-to-5-30-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-3950x&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-10900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X/m969950vs4044&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_core_i9_10900x-969-vs-amd_ryzen_9_3950x-932&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/197/AMD_Ryzen_9_3950X_vs_Intel_Core_i9_i9-10900X.html&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://gadgetversus.com/processor/intel-core-i9-10900x-vs-amd-ryzen-9-3950x/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48721" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="e5962637-6c08-49a6-a605-922bb4237766" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:19:28.090" UserId="1801" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only Profile 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support Profile 30a (200Mbps) if not Profile 25b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][2] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48722" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="e5962637-6c08-49a6-a605-922bb4237766" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:19:28.090" UserId="1801" Text="Profile 30a or 35b VDSL2 Modem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48723" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="e5962637-6c08-49a6-a605-922bb4237766" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:19:28.090" UserId="1801" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48724" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="21f1fd3f-b759-4ea4-8b38-1f6669e1420d" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:21:52.447" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated DSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only Profile 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support Profile 30a (200Mbps) if not Profile 25b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][2] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48725" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="21f1fd3f-b759-4ea4-8b38-1f6669e1420d" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:21:52.447" UserId="9825" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;dsl&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48726" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="0bac989d-b5ee-4098-b9fa-bcfa41c44dcf" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:23:26.887" UserId="1801" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only Profile 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support Profile 30a (200Mbps) if not Profile 25b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][2] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13542" RevisionGUID="05c8672c-793c-414f-94db-ad7875fd6430" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:27:11.660" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48728" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13542" RevisionGUID="05c8672c-793c-414f-94db-ad7875fd6430" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:27:11.660" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13543" RevisionGUID="6f29279d-ae0a-4a98-9230-7fd5aa80aeee" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:27:11.660" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48730" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13543" RevisionGUID="6f29279d-ae0a-4a98-9230-7fd5aa80aeee" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:27:11.660" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48731" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="f13ba95b-2bb0-4003-bd68-683b5066b40a" CreationDate="2020-05-27T20:52:02.640" UserId="9825" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only [Profile][2] 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support [Profile][2] 30a (200Mbps) if not Profile 35b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][3] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VDSL#Profiles&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="e92053e9-f107-4165-a852-bdfe6c99f6c0" CreationDate="2020-05-27T21:03:19.820" UserId="9825" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only [Profile][2] 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support [Profile][2] 30a (200Mbps) if not [Profile][2] 35b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][3] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VDSL#Profiles&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48743" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="a11f3488-56fd-44a5-9e31-3b54454935e6" CreationDate="2020-05-27T23:36:43.297" UserId="1801" Comment="Rollback to [0bac989d-b5ee-4098-b9fa-bcfa41c44dcf]" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only Profile 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support Profile 30a (200Mbps) if not Profile 25b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][2] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48744" PostHistoryTypeId="8" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="ecc8ddef-5e58-42c1-a763-c2701b18b6b9" CreationDate="2020-05-27T23:39:16.853" UserId="1801" Comment="Rollback to [e92053e9-f107-4165-a852-bdfe6c99f6c0]" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router) with a separate modem and router (we already have the router, and separate Wi-Fi).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but like the old ECI B-focus and Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only [Profile][2] 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support [Profile][2] 30a (200Mbps) if not [Profile][2] 35b (300Mbps), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][3] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VDSL#Profiles&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48747" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13540" RevisionGUID="da98af74-ff1a-4027-8af7-5de7273e063b" CreationDate="2020-05-28T00:04:13.940" UserId="9825" Comment="added 511 characters in body" Text="Unless you are willing to consider a [multi-CPU board][1] and the [Xeon CPUs][2] it would use, the top end Intel i9 Core CPU today for your use is the $700 [i9-10900X][3] with   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 cores, 20 threads  &#xD;&#xA;4 memory channels   &#xD;&#xA;256 GB max RAM  &#xD;&#xA;48 PCIe lanes, and requires the&#xD;&#xA;[LGA2066][4] socket for its motherboard.	 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best Intel CPU would be the [i9-10900KF][5] but the two added memory channels, doubled maximum RAM, and tripled number of PCIe lanes makes the **X** CPU really stand out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to competition from AMD, I don't believe the game-optimized $710 [Ryzen R9 3950X][6] would be that much more interesting. With only only half the maximum memory, half the number of memory channels, and only 20 PCIe lanes compared to the 48 PCie lanes of the Chipzilla powerhouse, the added features of slightly higher operating freq., increased L3 cache, two more cores/four more threads, and and ECC vs not, don't look that interesting to me. But, itf you ike it, look for motherboards with an [AM4][7] CPU socket. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe 4.0 vs 3.0 would look like advantage: Ryzen, if PCIe 4.0 drives were readily available at reasonable prices; but, they're not, doe it doesn't look meaningful. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side-by-side comparisons [A][8]  [B][9]  [C][10]  [D][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-Z10PA-D8-ASMB8-IKVM-LGA2011-v3-Motherboard/dp/B00O1A68NS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=dual%20xeon%20motherboard&amp;qid=1590623787&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=LGA2011-v3%20CPU&amp;rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk01XbVEoQSQTHuxpaEXw78iJTP7IXQ:1590624226609&amp;source=univ&amp;tbm=shop&amp;tbo=u&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwi44f3_oNXpAhUTvZ4KHVQvDFgQsxh6BAhlECw&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/198019/intel-core-i9-10900x-x-series-processor-19-25m-cache-3-70-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2066&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/199331/intel-core-i9-10900kf-processor-20m-cache-up-to-5-30-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-3950x&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-10900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X/m969950vs4044&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_core_i9_10900x-969-vs-amd_ryzen_9_3950x-932&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/197/AMD_Ryzen_9_3950X_vs_Intel_Core_i9_i9-10900X.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://gadgetversus.com/processor/intel-core-i9-10900x-vs-amd-ryzen-9-3950x/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48748" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13541" RevisionGUID="31bf7b35-cb6a-4811-9067-bdda715a2622" CreationDate="2020-05-28T00:34:24.623" UserId="1801" Comment="added 360 characters in body" Text="We are looking to replace our current integrated VDSL Modem/Router (a horrid Vodafone branded Technicolor router with no modem mode) with a separate modem. We already have routing and Wi-Fi handled by dedicated devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been looking at the [Draytek Vigor 130][1], but as with the old Huawei EchoLife HG612 modems and ECI B-focus (which you can now only pick up second hand), these are only [Profile][2] 17a (100Mbps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I'm going to buy a modem now though, I want it to at least support [Profile][2] 30a (200Mbps) if not [Profile][2] 35b (300Mbps) and/or G.fast (gigabit), so I don't have to buy another modem in a year or two's time. Even better would be if it had PoE support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is, I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find out what products support which profiles. For instance the [Netgear DM200 spec page][3] doesn't say anything about which profile it supports (though you can infer it is [Profile][2] 17a based on the 100Mbps download speed (mentioned in the text, not in the specification sheet).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the other devices I've found so far have been integrated modem/routers, and I don't want to have to contend with double natting. One option might be an integrated modem/router which has a 'modem mode' but I expect this would make it rather expensive, having to pay for lots of functionality that isn't needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What options should I be considering?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;I am in the U.K. but this question should be relevant worldwide, as there is nothing special about VDSL2 in the U.K.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigor-130#specifications&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VDSL#Profiles&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.netgear.co.uk/home/products/networking/dsl-modems-routers/DM200.aspx#tab-techspecs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13548" RevisionGUID="39ee5de9-bd77-476e-9e5c-35f502f077ea" CreationDate="2020-05-28T10:32:29.333" UserId="1801" Text="### Another option is to roll your own.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Inspired by a series of articles by Jim Salter on Ars Technica about building a [Homebrew router][1], we moved routing functionality of our network onto our application server and it has been working well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Hardware&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server itself is Dell R220 (shallow 1U) with a four Ethernet ports. Our main network is plugged into one port, our DSL modem into another, and our cable modem into another, leaving us a spare port for network link aggregation later if necessary. We even have a DMZ machine for one of the modems attached via a VLAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The server cost us less than $150 including shipping and is obviously old, but serviceable server grade kit with ECC memory rather than a built-to-a-price-point mini PC with restricted CPU performance (and power consumption). Any free server on your network with enough Ethernet ports may be suitable instead though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Software&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We run [Proxmox][2] as the host operating system (ZFS root pool for the win), then run [OPNsense][3] in a virtual machine as our router, with the modem Ethernet ports &amp; DMZ VLAN only being accessible from within the VM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We also run all of our Docker instances on this machine, so it would be powered on 24/7 anyway, and the extra load of the router VM is relatively small, even when maxing out internet use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This solution is one I would consider for any network that is any more complex than a simple one-line one-modem/router combination.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.proxmox.com/en/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://opnsense.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48760" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="462d3869-f8c4-4893-b2e1-8fb418efb575" CreationDate="2020-05-28T13:41:28.837" UserId="14167" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA;  - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA;  - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA;  - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA;  - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA;  - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA;  - Another features: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA;  - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA;  - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA;  - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA;  - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA;  - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA;  - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA;  - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA;  - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA;  - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA;  - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA;  - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48761" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="462d3869-f8c4-4893-b2e1-8fb418efb575" CreationDate="2020-05-28T13:41:28.837" UserId="14167" Text="Which of the following laptop out of 3 should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48762" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="462d3869-f8c4-4893-b2e1-8fb418efb575" CreationDate="2020-05-28T13:41:28.837" UserId="14167" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="19ed1038-766b-4ab1-8b77-4638fb84fa7b" CreationDate="2020-05-28T13:53:22.927" UserId="14167" Comment="added 273 characters in body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13555" RevisionGUID="acd99d59-3b69-452f-af16-6fc8a7ed3ffb" CreationDate="2020-05-28T16:35:09.467" UserId="9825" Text="The [Silverstone SST-ML03B Milo ML03 HTPC][1] &#xD;&#xA;[![picture with lid on][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![picture with lid off][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;accepts your standard sized ATX power supply, costs 60 quid, and measures 43.99 x 33.99 x 10.49 cm.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-SST-ML03B-Micro-Silent-Computer/dp/B004HE2YZE/ref=psdc_430498031_t3_B01J1N43Y0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpU2L.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2t4a4.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48786" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13540" RevisionGUID="3822fbc9-e8a2-4ef0-bbf1-65ee72577fd6" CreationDate="2020-05-28T17:13:57.787" UserId="9825" Comment="added 77 characters in body" Text="Unless you are willing to consider a [multi-CPU board][1] and the [Xeon CPUs][2] it would use (are you?), the top end Intel i9 Core CPU today for your use is the $700 [i9-10900X][3] with   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 cores, 20 threads  &#xD;&#xA;4 memory channels   &#xD;&#xA;256 GB max RAM  &#xD;&#xA;48 PCIe lanes, and requires the&#xD;&#xA;[LGA2066][4] socket for its motherboard.	 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The next best Intel CPU would be the [i9-10900KF][5] but the two added memory channels, doubled maximum RAM, and tripled number of PCIe lanes makes the **X** CPU really stand out.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As to competition from AMD, I don't believe the game-optimized $710 [Ryzen R9 3950X][6] would be that much more interesting. With only only half the maximum memory, half the number of memory channels, and only 20 PCIe lanes compared to the 48 PCie lanes of the Chipzilla powerhouse, the added features of slightly higher operating freq., increased L3 cache, two more cores/four more threads, and and ECC vs not, don't look that interesting to me. But, if you like it, look for motherboards with an [AM4][7] CPU socket. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PCIe 4.0 vs 3.0 would look like an advantage: Ryzen, if PCIe 4.0 drives were readily available at reasonable prices; but, they're not, so it doesn't look advantageous. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Side-by-side comparisons [A][8]  [B][9]  [C][10]  [D][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=dual+xeon+motherboard&amp;i=electronics&amp;rh=n%3A1048424%2Cp_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A10656895011%2Cp_n_condition-type%3A2224371011%2Cp_36%3A1253507011&amp;s=price-asc-rank&amp;dc&amp;qid=1590685928&amp;rnid=386442011&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_36_1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=LGA2011-v3%20CPU&amp;rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS804US804&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk01XbVEoQSQTHuxpaEXw78iJTP7IXQ:1590624226609&amp;source=univ&amp;tbm=shop&amp;tbo=u&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwi44f3_oNXpAhUTvZ4KHVQvDFgQsxh6BAhlECw&amp;biw=1536&amp;bih=722&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/198019/intel-core-i9-10900x-x-series-processor-19-25m-cache-3-70-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2066&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/199331/intel-core-i9-10900kf-processor-20m-cache-up-to-5-30-ghz.html&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-3950x&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-10900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X/m969950vs4044&#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_core_i9_10900x-969-vs-amd_ryzen_9_3950x-932&#xD;&#xA;  [10]: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/197/AMD_Ryzen_9_3950X_vs_Intel_Core_i9_i9-10900X.html&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://gadgetversus.com/processor/intel-core-i9-10900x-vs-amd-ryzen-9-3950x/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48787" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13555" RevisionGUID="2f56afd5-4a2f-43c1-a372-5e891c5c8d18" CreationDate="2020-05-28T17:32:02.687" UserId="9825" Comment="added 42 characters in body" Text="The [Silverstone SST-ML03B Milo ML03 HTPC][1] &#xD;&#xA;[![picture with lid on][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![picture with lid off][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;accepts your standard sized ATX power supply, costs 60 quid, and measures 43.99 x 33.99 x 10.49 cm.  10.5 cm when set on end is pretty small.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-SST-ML03B-Micro-Silent-Computer/dp/B004HE2YZE/ref=psdc_430498031_t3_B01J1N43Y0&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpU2L.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2t4a4.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48788" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13556" RevisionGUID="dceee61e-1f23-4419-b751-1d2de2334a56" CreationDate="2020-05-28T17:32:39.320" UserId="7532" Text="Excellent question, includes all the specs. You didn't include price, so I will not consider that. I suspect they are all similar in that respect. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**CPU:** Both the [i7-1065G7][1] and [i7-10510U][2] have 4 cores, 8 threads, and 15W typical TDP. Despite the i7-10510U higher boost clock, the i7-1065G7's newer architecture offers some improvements that make it's overall performance better. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAM:** With the same size and speed, the only difference from DDR3 to DDR4 is the voltage. On the scale of 2 sticks in a laptop, 0.3V will not noticeably affect your battery life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Storage:** A perk of the architecture of NVMe SSDs is that larger sizes typically operate a little faster. Accelerating an NVMe drive with Optane will not give you much benefit, I'm not sure why they would do this...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics:** [MX250 vs Intel Iris Plus vs UHD 620][3] These are all somewhat comparable and unless you get into Graphic design or gaming regularly, you may not notice much difference. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**WiFi:** While you will not see a difference now (in the early stages), as Wifi6 becomes mainstream, you will be glad you have it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Thunderbolt 3:** I believe this will only become more common and more useful over time. The Acer Swift 5 is the only one with it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would recommend **System 3:** [Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][4] It has the longest battery life and may be extended further by the processor; Thunderbolt3; Wifi6; middle range in graphics of the three. All three laptops are good choices but if I had to choose one, this is it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i7-1065G7%20%40%201.30GHz&amp;id=3466&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel%20Core%20i7-10510U%20%40%201.80GHz&amp;id=3549&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/GeForce-MX250-vs-Iris-Plus-Graphics-655-vs-UHD-Graphics-620_9561_8828_8098.247598.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48789" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="0aa1a0da-cb36-4d89-87ae-3daec352995a" CreationDate="2020-05-28T17:47:27.303" UserId="9825" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A comparison chart follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison chart][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfhMu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48790" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="7bdd4dd1-da65-4e1d-8094-f8c18c0002c2" CreationDate="2020-05-28T17:58:09.057" UserId="9825" Comment="added 128 characters in body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A [Google Sheets comparison chart][4] follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison chart][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIO0yRR38SMt53oUxw9LMKA6LknPI0IGak3pxradzy8/edit?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfhMu.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48792" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="a9d731e7-2d95-429b-a340-8d95cb9d0f8d" CreationDate="2020-05-28T18:24:07.213" UserId="9825" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1]? It's what I have, and I love it. If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad E590][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service is excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-E590-Business-Laptop-Fingerprint/dp/B07X3S6GPW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48793" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="c7c891f5-3166-4caf-91e0-61511bfcaa0d" CreationDate="2020-05-28T18:54:04.117" UserId="9825" Comment="edited body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A [Google Sheets comparison chart][4] follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison chart][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIO0yRR38SMt53oUxw9LMKA6LknPI0IGak3pxradzy8/edit?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bf8wD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48794" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="85f6838d-1f28-4c29-b427-0ada1dd53643" CreationDate="2020-05-28T18:55:06.757" UserId="9825" Comment="added 58 characters in body" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1], superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad E590][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service is excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-E590-Business-Laptop-Fingerprint/dp/B07X3S6GPW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48795" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="4def95de-9078-49a7-a7b8-8b25029b1a85" CreationDate="2020-05-28T20:47:22.817" UserId="9825" Comment="added 166 characters in body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: Office Home &amp; Student&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: Office Home &amp; Student&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: N/A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A [Google Sheets comparison chart][4] follows.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison chart][6]][6]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIO0yRR38SMt53oUxw9LMKA6LknPI0IGak3pxradzy8/edit?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bf8wD.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/24N9W.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48796" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="1d0bb573-b637-42f4-89d6-b9b993d3edc9" CreationDate="2020-05-28T20:48:19.667" UserId="9825" Comment="added 90 characters in body" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1], superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it; the extra two cores help, and Windows 10 Pro allows me to connect to domains in networks. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad E590][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service is excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-E590-Business-Laptop-Fingerprint/dp/B07X3S6GPW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48797" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="13425" RevisionGUID="06cc3475-5d87-44fe-b097-0104e5dad23e" CreationDate="2020-05-28T21:05:35.550" UserId="-1" Comment="95" />
  <row Id="48798" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6394" RevisionGUID="8b14f44d-b043-4cd6-a92b-c970d2927175" CreationDate="2020-05-28T21:05:35.550" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13558" RevisionGUID="113c969c-b2ab-4be9-962b-1771a69d2b0c" CreationDate="2020-05-28T23:54:26.140" UserId="15894" Text="I need personalized software for myself and **I am looking for a dedicated tablet-like device** to run this software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software would be mostly CRUD application for objects made mostly from text and rarely with images/sound, but also with some graphical visualisation of those data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are few requirements for device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- need to be able take it with me **in pocket** - so I guess suitable is only **8-10 inches** (is that right?)&#xD;&#xA;- budget is **around 250USD** (buying in Europe, but we can speak about US prices), **maximum is 350USD**&#xD;&#xA;- software would be done in **.NET**, so it needs to be **able to install Windows or Android** (then I can use Xamarin), no need to be preinstalled, I can reinstall OS myself&#xD;&#xA;- sometimes I would need some **more space to watch and play with my data** and I do not want to export-import it through the computer, so **I would like to plug such a device to 4k monitor directly** (miniDisplayPort / DisplayPort / HDMI)&#xD;&#xA;- sometimes I would need to write some longer text there, so **I would like to be able to plug a normal keyboard** (USB? mini-USB? or somehow else)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- there could be potentially **lots of data** and I would prefer to have it **stored in RAM memory most of time**, eventually on some small local database - so I guess I would need big RAM device&#xD;&#xA;- I do not want to have a wireless internet connection (I guess every device have nowadays, so my plan B is to just never log to any WiFi network or maybe open device and destroy a wireless adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anyone is able to recommend me some specific device?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48802" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13558" RevisionGUID="113c969c-b2ab-4be9-962b-1771a69d2b0c" CreationDate="2020-05-28T23:54:26.140" UserId="15894" Text="I am looking for recomendation for tablet-like device for personalized software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48803" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13558" RevisionGUID="113c969c-b2ab-4be9-962b-1771a69d2b0c" CreationDate="2020-05-28T23:54:26.140" UserId="15894" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13562" RevisionGUID="d85b9bfa-07c2-4448-959e-dd2706d06020" CreationDate="2020-05-29T09:36:57.160" UserId="6806" Text="I am searching for a USB (A or C male) to TOSLINK Adapter (female) in order to keep my audio signal digital as long as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is important that I do not need to install specific drivers (this is especially important for Linux).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;==&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively it could be S/PDIF instead of TOSLINK." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48817" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13562" RevisionGUID="d85b9bfa-07c2-4448-959e-dd2706d06020" CreationDate="2020-05-29T09:36:57.160" UserId="6806" Text="USB (A or C) to TOSLINK Adapter for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48818" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13562" RevisionGUID="d85b9bfa-07c2-4448-959e-dd2706d06020" CreationDate="2020-05-29T09:36:57.160" UserId="6806" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13563" RevisionGUID="0fdc4bc8-ed55-41af-ac90-090c74c60600" CreationDate="2020-05-29T10:44:34.650" UserId="15900" Text="I'm looking for a router that offers a demonstrably secure way to remotely access files on a hard drive attached via USB 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many routers with USB ports allow you to attach a drive, and often offer an FTP server which, combined with DDNS, means you can access it remotely. However, FTP is not secure and for some reason, I've been unable to find any router which implements either FTP over TLS (FTPS) or FTP through SSH (SFTP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Do you know of any (good!) consumer routers that do implement either an FTPS or SFTP server?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I say &quot;demonstrably&quot; above: I'm not keen on using the proprietary, built-in remote access functions that routers often come with, as these are notoriously not actually secure. Whereas SSH and TLS are known secure standards. I'm not looking to access nuclear launch codes, but equally I'm not looking for my files to be accessed by bots exploiting vulnerabilities in proprietary remote access implementations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And when I say &quot;securely access files&quot; what I mean is end-to-end encrypted, i.e. no file or password is ever transmitted over the line in clear text, and no one could intercept the keys either (i.e. encrypted via some standard public key cryptography scheme)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48820" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13563" RevisionGUID="0fdc4bc8-ed55-41af-ac90-090c74c60600" CreationDate="2020-05-29T10:44:34.650" UserId="15900" Text="Good consumer router that offers genuinely secure remote file access to USB drive, such as native SFTP or FTPS (FTP over TLS)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48821" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13563" RevisionGUID="0fdc4bc8-ed55-41af-ac90-090c74c60600" CreationDate="2020-05-29T10:44:34.650" UserId="15900" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48822" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10453" RevisionGUID="ca856370-11df-440f-a0ed-1dc32dacc7b2" CreationDate="2020-05-29T11:50:05.753" UserId="10349" Comment="added 82 characters in body" Text="Well let me be the one to answer my own question. I found a working adapter! It allows to pd charge my phone and have a USB c port left for other peripherals.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This adapter https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw [1]&#xD;&#xA;from AliExpress is advertised as a USB C splitter just like the ones on Amazon, but on the contrary it never mentions having a DAC like the ones on Amazon. What it does mention is working with the Pixel phones and I can confirm that! Not only does it work for the Google 3.5mm dongle, but it also works for a mouse and USB flash drive I tried. &#xD;&#xA;I'm sure there are some on Amazon working the same way (as they often re-sell Chinese stock) but I haven't tried any of those as they were more expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also haven't tried it on other devices like a Chromebook but I assume it works the same for all USB 3.1 devices (like the pixel 2xl). Whether USB alternative mode is supported for displays I cannot test currently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: I just tried the adapter with a Oneplus 6T (USB 2.0 with analog audio over USB) and it only works one port at a time. And analog audio doesn't work. This is quite expected because of the broken and old spec Oneplus uses and the lack of audio over usb c wires in the adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xA;Edit: part number is 4NB900424-B if the link stops working&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://€ 8,92  27%OFF | 2 in 1 Fast Charge Headset Adapter Type-C USB-C 3.5mm Digital Audio Cable Converter For iPad Pro Google HTC Huawei Essential Mac&#xD;&#xA; https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2-in-1-Snelle-Lading-Headset-Adapter-Type-C-USB-C-3-5mm-Digitale-Audio-Kabel/32961645430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b6a4c4d82wJiw" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48830" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13567" RevisionGUID="1ba4310f-da94-41f2-8f6d-48dc7c3eae8c" CreationDate="2020-05-29T16:14:43.607" UserId="15902" Text="I've had good luck with MiniDSP products for this.  For example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/mchstreamer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48832" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13568" RevisionGUID="2183cf9c-1448-4b6c-94f1-a21071a7ac46" CreationDate="2020-05-29T16:19:20.023" UserId="7532" Text="You will find what you are looking for listed as a USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) even though technically, toslink is not analog and you may not need the DAC functionality for your purpose. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a long list on amazon. [This one][1] claims to be Plug-and-play and need no drivers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/LiNKFOR-Coaxial-Headphone-Converter-Optical/dp/B07SR7BYD6/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48833" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13569" RevisionGUID="7d6340a9-88b0-4eae-b220-af044feb760a" CreationDate="2020-05-29T16:46:16.913" UserId="7532" Text="If you are truly concerned with security, look into a software like [OpenWRT][1], or [DD_WRT][2]. OpenWRT has a [list of supported hardware][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Archer C7][4] is one option I can vouch for. It supports FTP out of the box and you can flash it with OpenWRT to support SFTP or SSH. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://openwrt.org/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://openwrt.org/toh/views/toh_available_16128&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48835" PostHistoryTypeId="52" PostId="13562" RevisionGUID="b1fc7a83-f3fb-436f-8774-a1bcc61fc190" CreationDate="2020-05-29T17:39:27.743" />
  <row Id="48837" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13558" RevisionGUID="47745f53-cca2-4914-a9c2-bc9cccaccfc3" CreationDate="2020-05-29T18:25:18.200" UserId="9825" Comment="added 80 characters in body" Text="I need personalized software for myself and **I am looking for a dedicated tablet-like device** to run this software. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Software would be mostly [CRUD applications][1] for objects made mostly from text and rarely with images/sound, but also with some graphical visualisation of those data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are few requirements for device:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- need to be able take it with me **in pocket** - so I guess suitable is only **8-10 inches** (is that right?)&#xD;&#xA;- budget is **around 250USD** (buying in Europe, but we can speak about US prices), **maximum is 350USD**&#xD;&#xA;- software would be done in **.NET**, so it needs to be **able to install Windows or Android** (then I can use Xamarin), no need to be preinstalled, I can reinstall OS myself&#xD;&#xA;- sometimes I would need some **more space to watch and play with my data** and I do not want to export-import it through the computer, so **I would like to plug such a device to 4k monitor directly** (miniDisplayPort / DisplayPort / HDMI)&#xD;&#xA;- sometimes I would need to write some longer text there, so **I would like to be able to plug a normal keyboard** (USB? mini-USB? or somehow else)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- there could be potentially **lots of data** and I would prefer to have it **stored in RAM memory most of time**, eventually on some small local database - so I guess I would need big RAM device&#xD;&#xA;- I do not want to have a wireless internet connection (I guess every device have nowadays, so my plan B is to just never log to any WiFi network or maybe open device and destroy a wireless adapter)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Anyone is able to recommend me some specific device?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Create,_read,_update_and_delete" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48843" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13573" RevisionGUID="9b76237f-f81b-4940-83d9-cc75b5732dbb" CreationDate="2020-05-29T22:29:13.223" UserId="9825" Text="63 quid gets you [this P4-level 220VAC][1] shredder. Sadly, Big River Trading Company's website detected my Americanese dialect and would not allow me to ask _Is the paper input sensor mechanical or optical?_&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bonsaii-12-Sheet-60-Minute-Continuous-Operation/dp/B07G2WMKWG/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48844" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="72f82767-158c-4339-b41c-9536d53e9cf4" CreationDate="2020-05-29T22:33:28.177" UserId="9825" Comment="added 48 characters in body" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1], superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it; the extra two cores help, and Windows 10 Pro allows me to connect to domains in networks. Over two years in, battery life still &gt; 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad E590][2] or [other ThinkPads][3] in the  ₹90,000-₹149,999 bucket.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service is excellent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-E590-Business-Laptop-Fingerprint/dp/B07X3S6GPW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-6&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/s?k=Thinkpad&amp;i=computers&amp;rh=p_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_36%3A9000000-15000000&amp;dc&amp;qid=1590791665&amp;rnid=1318502031&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_36_5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48845" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="d91eb509-91c3-48b3-98f7-ad57e783ee2c" CreationDate="2020-05-29T22:54:00.727" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 271 characters in body" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1], superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it; the extra two cores help, and Windows 10 Pro allows me to connect to domains in networks. Over two years in, battery life still &gt; 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad Legion Y540][2] or [other ThinkPads][3] in the  ₹90,000-₹149,999 bucket.  ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service included in the warranty is excellent. These are machines which likely will last through your school years and beyond without repair; I write this on a 2010 ThinkPad T420 still in service a decade later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.lenovo.com/in/en/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-y-series/Lenovo-Legion-Y540-15/p/81SX00G6IN &#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/s?k=Thinkpad&amp;i=computers&amp;rh=p_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_36%3A9000000-15000000&amp;dc&amp;qid=1590791665&amp;rnid=1318502031&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_36_5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48846" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13550" RevisionGUID="f348cada-3008-420e-904e-508319d3f329" CreationDate="2020-05-29T23:00:29.123" UserId="9825" Comment="deleted 39 characters in body" Text="I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Laptop Use:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).&#xD;&#xA; - Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.&#xD;&#xA; - Browsing: Chrome&#xD;&#xA; - (Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1. System 1:**&#xD;&#xA;[HP Envy 13-aq1020TX][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 53Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: Office Home &amp; Student&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2. System 2:**&#xD;&#xA;[ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 50Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology&#xD;&#xA; - Wireless: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: Office Home &amp; Student&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**3. System 3:**&#xD;&#xA;[Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz&#xD;&#xA; - Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics&#xD;&#xA; - Battery: 56Wh&#xD;&#xA; - Audio: (Not specified)&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 14&quot; 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.&#xD;&#xA; - Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA; - OS: Win 10 Home&#xD;&#xA; - Apps: N/A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A [Google Sheets comparison chart][4] follows.&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[![Comparison chart][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIO0yRR38SMt53oUxw9LMKA6LknPI0IGak3pxradzy8/edit?usp=sharing&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQGjL.png&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48847" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13557" RevisionGUID="7f7967df-e292-4fc9-8539-1551e7e193b2" CreationDate="2020-05-29T23:01:18.327" UserId="9825" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="Would your budget reach up to a [Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen][1], superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it; the extra two cores help, and Windows 10 Pro allows me to connect to domains in networks. Over two years in, battery life still &gt; 3 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You *will* appreciate the faster RAM in the Lenovos. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not, I would suggest a [Thinkpad Legion Y540][2] (also six-core) or [other ThinkPads][3] in the  ₹90,000-₹149,999 bucket.  ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service included in the warranty is excellent. These are machines which likely will last through your school years and beyond without repair; I write this on a 2010 ThinkPad T420 still in service a decade later.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.lenovo.com/in/en/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-y-series/Lenovo-Legion-Y540-15/p/81SX00G6IN &#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/s?k=Thinkpad&amp;i=computers&amp;rh=p_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_36%3A9000000-15000000&amp;dc&amp;qid=1590791665&amp;rnid=1318502031&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_36_5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48870" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="caa4e34f-bf6f-4422-bf2c-0ab7bc8c568b" CreationDate="2020-05-30T10:03:05.313" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48879" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9583" RevisionGUID="327af6ba-99f9-4486-957f-df9785ae2293" CreationDate="2020-05-31T00:37:20.853" UserId="9630" Comment="added 654 characters in body" Text="(Yes, I’ve seen [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/9296/9630) which is very similar, however my specs include the word gigabit. Also the only current answer to that question was written by someone that didn’t understand the meaning of “dual-WAN” and made an incorrect assumption about its meaning.)&#xA;&#xA;I’m looking for a gigabit multi-WAN (or dual-WAN) Router for use in an automatic failover application.    I have a problematic cable connection which fails several times a month.  With my current level of home automation I can simply no longer accept that failure.&#xA;&#xA;The cable modem is already a separate device (i.e. not an all-in-one combo device).  I have also already purchased a Netgear LB2120 4G cellular modem, which was supposed to also handle the failover routing (oddly the cable company blocks the device as a failover router, I can use it as a modem behind another router tho).  LB2120 also has no means of external configuration.  At the moment switching internet connections is as manual as walking in and swapping plugs, which doesn’t work if I’m not home.&#xA;&#xA;I’ve also already tried purchasing, and recently returned to vendor, [TP-Link TL-ER5120 v3](https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-4910_TL-ER5120.html) which should have solved the problem, but doesn’t because it has an odd firmware bug which seems to block ports on the local network.  (Specifically in testing port 3389–I suspect many others).  There is a bizarre long email chain with TP-link support where the initial entry level support associate validates my claim “in the lab”.  She passes the case to “senior level support” who consistently argues there is no problem found, and continues “coaching” me on setup. There are several really odd things that make me suspect about the “senior” techs understanding of his job, he insists: Static IP (not DHCP reservation) must be used, he also insists the client end (not the server end) be assigned the static IP, and finally he admits he is not using 5120 v3 but an older 6120 model that is “very similar” to mine.  He consistently tells me I don’t understand what to do, that I’m not following his instructions (even though I tried it his way and sent screenshots proving that I did).  There is also now [another user in the TP-link public forum same complaint](https://community.tp-link.com/en/business/forum/topic/150043?page=1)&#xA;&#xA;Requirements include: &#xA;&#xA;- Gigabit router, Multi or dual &#xA;WAN with load balance/failover configurable options.&#xA;&#xA;- DHCP server, with reservations&#xA;&#xA;- Port Forwarding (i.e. opening an external port pointing to a specific internal IP and port).&#xA;&#xA;- No WiFi required (I already have a wired dual band AP in a centrally located position that provides excellent WiFi coverage).&#xA;&#xA;- not Enterprise level pricing (I can find this router many times over for $900+, however hardly any under $200, and only about one under $100).&#xA;&#xA;- ~50 clients connected between a mix of wired and WiFi (but any gigabit router should handle that).&#xA;&#xA;- configureable remote access (I shouldn’t  actually need, but the fact the the Netgear LB-2120 has none exposes the potential need)&#xA;&#xA;So to further reiterate, this router must have the ability to handle at least two internet (WAN) connections, one primary and one failover.&#xA;&#xA;**Edit 2020-05-30**: (this question has gotten a lot of attention just lately). As indicated in the comments to the marked answer, two year ago I purchased the Ubiquiti ER-X.  I was very happy with the choice, however 2 years later, I’ve just recently upgraded to the ER-12.  The three elements that factored into the upgrade.  1) primary internet was upgraded to 1000Mbps (the ER-X didn’t perform well, even with hwnat enabled).  2) the router was running a VPN which was rarely used but slow for streaming video 3) the added hardwire ethernet jacks allowed me to eliminate a switch.   Configuration and scripts transferred almost without modifications.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48880" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="98fe2974-4a8d-4c9b-99c5-37bc65e74f84" CreationDate="2020-05-31T07:05:25.567" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="467711d5-78c6-4860-8b4a-9df7472ada54" CreationDate="2020-05-31T07:52:25.963" UserId="1410" Text="I am looking for an MP3 player for running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - display (rudimentary is fine, but no button-only operation)&#xD;&#xA; - shuffle play (random selection for playback)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - playlists (so that I can have one fast-tempo list for running, plus one for all music, maybe one for audio books; note: I do not mind having two copies of a song on the device if I want it in two playlists)  &#xD;&#xA; - BlueTooth (a great bonus would be the ability to turn off BT when using wired 'phones, to converse the battery) &#xD;&#xA; - runner friendly&#xD;&#xA;   - light weight  &#xD;&#xA;   - easy to hold, or small, with a clip &#xD;&#xA;   - show elapsed runnning time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some built in memory (even 1gB would be enough; although I could live with micro SD card only)  &#xD;&#xA; - somewhat rugged (meaning reasonably drop &amp; scratch proof, not military grade - not adding too much to size/weight/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus features**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - built in pedometer  (why am I even asking for this, when I use a Garmin sports watch? I just some a player with this  got feature envy ;-)&#xD;&#xA;    - auto-detect when running starts &amp; stops  &#xD;&#xA;    - report calories burned (based on pedometer - which I can already get from Garmin)  &#xD;&#xA;  - good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;  - supports MP3, FLAC, Ogg Vorbis, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care either way about radio or viewing movies on a pokey little screen. If they don't add to he cost, I can ignore them. Any other runner friendly features that I have missed would be a bonus, as would a personal recommendation of a device that you use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All else being equal, I will go for the cheapest :-) and would prefer something under Eur 35 / GBP £ 30 / USD $ 37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48882" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="467711d5-78c6-4860-8b4a-9df7472ada54" CreationDate="2020-05-31T07:52:25.963" UserId="1410" Text="MP3 player for running" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48883" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="467711d5-78c6-4860-8b4a-9df7472ada54" CreationDate="2020-05-31T07:52:25.963" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48884" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="d03bfe69-9917-4341-8e3a-809acd65b35c" CreationDate="2020-05-31T08:38:35.037" UserId="1410" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an MP3 player for running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - display (rudimentary is fine, but no button-only operation)&#xD;&#xA; - shuffle play (random selection for playback)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - playlists (so that I can have one fast-tempo list for running, plus one for all music, maybe one for audio books; note: I do not mind having two copies of a song on the device if I want it in two playlists)  &#xD;&#xA; - BlueTooth (a great bonus would be the ability to turn off BT when using wired 'phones, to converse the battery) &#xD;&#xA; - runner friendly&#xD;&#xA;   - light weight  &#xD;&#xA;   - easy to hold, or small, with a clip &#xD;&#xA;   - show elapsed runnning time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - some built in memory (even 1gB would be enough; although I could live with micro SD card only)  &#xD;&#xA; - somewhat rugged (meaning reasonably drop &amp; scratch proof, not military grade - not adding too much to size/weight/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus features**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - built in pedometer  (why am I even asking for this, when I use a Garmin sports watch? I just some a player with this  got feature envy ;-)&#xD;&#xA;    - auto-detect when running starts &amp; stops  &#xD;&#xA;    - report calories burned (based on pedometer - which I can already get from Garmin)  &#xD;&#xA;  - good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;  - supports MP3, FLAC, Ogg Vorbis, etc&#xD;&#xA;  - possibly Spotify support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care either way about radio or viewing movies on a pokey little screen. If they don't add to he cost, I can ignore them. Any other runner friendly features that I have missed would be a bonus, as would a personal recommendation of a device that you use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All else being equal, I will go for the cheapest :-) and would prefer something under Eur 35 / GBP £ 30 / USD $ 37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48885" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="4bf99091-dba5-4ceb-bf8c-710eeaf86b0f" CreationDate="2020-05-31T09:44:41.893" UserId="1410" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an MP3 player for running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - display (rudimentary is fine, but no button-only operation)&#xD;&#xA; - shuffle play (random selection for playback)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - runner friendly&#xD;&#xA;   - light weight  &#xD;&#xA;   - easy to hold, or small, with a clip, strongly prefer wrist wearable&#xD;&#xA;   - show elapsed runnning time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - BlueTooth (a great bonus would be the ability to turn off BT when using wired 'phones, to converse the battery); BT should not preclude use of wired 'phones&#xD;&#xA; - some built in memory (even 1gB would be enough; although I could live with micro SD card only)  &#xD;&#xA; - playlists (so that I can have one fast-tempo list for running, plus one for all music, maybe one for audio books; note: I do not mind having two copies of a song on the device if I want it in two playlists)  &#xD;&#xA; - somewhat rugged (meaning reasonably drop &amp; scratch proof, not military grade - not adding too much to size/weight/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus features**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - built in pedometer  (why am I even asking for this, when I use a Garmin sports watch? I just some a player with this  got feature envy ;-)&#xD;&#xA;    - auto-detect when running starts &amp; stops  &#xD;&#xA;    - report calories burned (based on pedometer - which I can already get from Garmin)  &#xD;&#xA;  - good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;  - supports MP3, FLAC, Ogg Vorbis, etc&#xD;&#xA;  - possibly Spotify support? (I only found one &amp; A) no display B) expensive)&#xD;&#xA;  - good software for managing it (although I can live with just copying fiels to/from Windows)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care either way about radio or viewing movies on a pokey little screen. If they don't add to he cost, I can ignore them. Any other runner friendly features that I have missed would be a bonus, as would a personal recommendation of a device that you use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All else being equal, I will go for the cheapest :-) and would prefer something under Eur 35 / GBP £ 30 / USD $ 37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48886" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="89f33689-a28c-4b56-9492-9648a55e36eb" CreationDate="2020-05-31T11:12:12.863" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 124 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an MP3 player for running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - display (rudimentary is fine, but no button-only operation)&#xD;&#xA; - shuffle play (random selection for playback)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - runner friendly&#xD;&#xA;   - light weight  &#xD;&#xA;   - easy to hold, or small, with a clip, strongly prefer wrist wearable&#xD;&#xA;   - show elapsed running time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth (a great bonus would be the ability to turn off BT when using wired 'phones, to conserve the battery); BT should not preclude use of wired 'phones&#xD;&#xA; - some built in memory (even 1GB would be enough; although I could live with micro SD card only)  &#xD;&#xA; - playlists (so that I can have one fast-tempo list for running, plus one for all music, maybe one for audio books; note: I do not mind having two copies of a song on the device if I want it in two playlists)  &#xD;&#xA; - somewhat rugged (meaning reasonably drop &amp; scratch proof, not military grade - not adding too much to size/weight/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus features**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - built in pedometer&#xD;&#xA;  - auto-detect when running starts &amp; stops  &#xD;&#xA;  - report calories burned (based on pedometer - which I can already get from Garmin)  &#xD;&#xA;  - good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;  - supports MP3, FLAC, Ogg Vorbis, etc&#xD;&#xA;  - possibly Spotify support? (I only found one &amp; (a) no display (b) expensive)&#xD;&#xA;  - good software for managing it (although I can live with just copying files to/from Windows)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care either way about radio or viewing movies on a pokey little screen. If they don't add to the cost, I can ignore them. Any other runner friendly features that I have missed would be a bonus, as would a personal recommendation of a device that you use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All else being equal, I will go for the cheapest :-) and would prefer something under 35 EUR / GBP £30 / USD $37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48887" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13577" RevisionGUID="cbefa737-d83b-4a9d-a436-95ddd908d080" CreationDate="2020-05-31T13:07:47.073" UserId="9201" Text="Can anyone recommend some good over-ear wired headphones around £50 / €55 / $60 that punch above their weight (pricewise) like the Superlux HD668B did a few years back or the Klipsch Image S4 did a few years before that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not bothered about noise-cancelling or headset / mic and don't overly care if they're open or closed back. Comfort for two-hour (or more) sessions is a high priority. I'm looking at the Pioneer MS5T but would appreciate any other suggestions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48888" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13577" RevisionGUID="cbefa737-d83b-4a9d-a436-95ddd908d080" CreationDate="2020-05-31T13:07:47.073" UserId="9201" Text="Good budget headphones" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48889" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13577" RevisionGUID="cbefa737-d83b-4a9d-a436-95ddd908d080" CreationDate="2020-05-31T13:07:47.073" UserId="9201" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48890" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="0ccdce3c-4ee1-4858-877b-341dc282b50f" CreationDate="2020-05-31T16:06:55.687" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13580" RevisionGUID="e031686e-3571-4967-883c-456ae36e0e74" CreationDate="2020-05-31T21:52:54.623" UserId="15909" Text="I've above average sized palms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a simple mouse which I can use comfortably for my daily purpose. And which can last longer than 1 year. In past I've tried a few big ones but they turned out to be useless after sometime due to left click problems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer wireless, but if wired have better option, then I'll not mind. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My daily average mouse usage is 4-5 hours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Kindly suggest." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48900" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13580" RevisionGUID="e031686e-3571-4967-883c-456ae36e0e74" CreationDate="2020-05-31T21:52:54.623" UserId="15909" Text="Simple mouse for big palms" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48901" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13580" RevisionGUID="e031686e-3571-4967-883c-456ae36e0e74" CreationDate="2020-05-31T21:52:54.623" UserId="15909" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48902" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13581" RevisionGUID="bd37e2ef-55fd-43dc-9fe6-21d773d9e866" CreationDate="2020-06-01T00:06:30.117" UserId="6089" Text="You may find that you can solve your ergonomic considerations with a trackball type input device. Logitech has been making the TrackMan Marble for many years. The device provides a rest for your palm and does not move. The ball (marble) is under one's thumb (right handed people only) while the mouse buttons fall to the proper locations for left and right clicking and mouse wheel action.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![trackman marble][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above image is from the Office Depot web site, but Amazon and other sources of this device abound. The image is of a wireless version and I did not search for the wired type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've worn out about three of these over the last few decades, mostly the mouse buttons. They either fail to click or register a double click when one desires a double click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the base remains stationary, it's also easier on your elbow and shoulder, if one is prone to repetitive stress injury.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other manufacturers of similar designs, but my experience (all good) is with the genuine Logitech product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ep0XD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48903" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13582" RevisionGUID="4e406f10-37c9-49a5-8850-69d12764a0d1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T10:35:13.343" UserId="15914" Text="I would like to buy the minimal hardware which would make me able to use collaborative whiteboard software, in order to handwrite formulas or draft some schemes with my colleagues remotely, as if we are writing on the same whiteboard (or the same piece of paper).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that to achieve thiis, I shoud buy one of the following types of hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. the cheapest possible tablet which has a stylus pen support (an android one would be preferrable);&#xD;&#xA;2. the cheapest possible drawing tablet (I don't need any advanced drawing feature, as I would use it just for simple handwriting);&#xD;&#xA;3. an external USB touch screen for my laptop, still with stylus pen support;&#xD;&#xA;4. a USB ovelay touch screen kit for my laptop screen, with stylus pen support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If there are hardware solutions which are not part of the above list, they are appreciated as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a budget of around 260 £ (GBP, British bounds), which I cannot exceed unfortunately. What would you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be super if the solution is even within 180-190 £, since it would be nice to use the rest of the budget to buy a printer.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48904" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13582" RevisionGUID="4e406f10-37c9-49a5-8850-69d12764a0d1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T10:35:13.343" UserId="15914" Text="Handwriting with a stylus pen on a touch screen for remote collaboration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48905" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13582" RevisionGUID="4e406f10-37c9-49a5-8850-69d12764a0d1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T10:35:13.343" UserId="15914" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;touchscreen&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48906" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13583" RevisionGUID="7be95f5a-0877-43ec-b3f5-10ab073d2410" CreationDate="2020-06-01T19:53:25.330" UserId="15883" Text="Option 2 would be my choice - a drawing / graphics tablet something like [this][1]. This would provide a more natural drawing experience as it is a matt surface. It is also considerably cheaper than the other options due to the fact it does not display an image, (or allows an image to pass through in the case of the touch screen overlay) leaving plenty of leftover budget for a printer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Options 1, 2 and 4 would all provide a similar writing experience as you would be writing on a glossy glass surface which would provide a less natural writing experience. I have written on a tablet before and the experience is very unnatural.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option would be to buy a pen that transmits writing to your laptop or a 'smart pen' such as [this][2]. I do not have any experience using these and the reviews seem mixed but good overall. This would give a the most natural writing experience, albeit at a higher cost. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Graphics-Pressure-Battery-Free-Compatible-Designer/dp/B072M76LNZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3LFXLALCYH92O&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=graphics%20tablet&amp;qid=1591040686&amp;sprefix=graphoucs%20tablet%2Caps%2C264&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Livescribe-APX-00008-2GB-Echo-Smartpen/dp/B00524DLZ0/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Smart%20Pens%20for%20Note%20Taking&amp;qid=1591040981&amp;sr=8-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48912" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10131" RevisionGUID="295c24d3-af27-4f02-a561-15fcfdb264ed" CreationDate="2020-06-02T04:08:05.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48918" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13581" RevisionGUID="6350a141-a27d-4725-9a67-828c73ffbf10" CreationDate="2020-06-02T15:19:28.720" UserId="6089" Comment="edited body" Text="You may find that you can solve your ergonomic considerations with a trackball type input device. Logitech has been making the TrackMan Marble for many years. The device provides a rest for your palm and does not move. The ball (marble) is under one's thumb (right handed people only) while the mouse buttons fall to the proper locations for left and right clicking and mouse wheel action.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![trackman marble][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The above image is from the Office Depot web site, but Amazon and other sources of this device abound. The image is of a wireless version and I did not search for the wired type.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've worn out about three of these over the last few decades, mostly the mouse buttons. They either fail to click or register a double click when one desires a single click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because the base remains stationary, it's also easier on your elbow and shoulder, if one is prone to repetitive stress injury.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are other manufacturers of similar designs, but my experience (all good) is with the genuine Logitech product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ep0XD.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48923" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="d8c600b8-f54d-4f0f-8a9c-ca350c3f1b3a" CreationDate="2020-06-02T20:00:30.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="48946" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="13524" RevisionGUID="2838ee0b-0538-431b-98e2-6975c04d4d73" CreationDate="2020-06-03T06:41:45.323" UserId="15865" Comment="96" />
  <row Id="48947" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13576" RevisionGUID="2d66626e-dd2e-453e-909b-456fc31e141a" CreationDate="2020-06-03T08:12:27.490" UserId="1410" Comment="deleted 6 characters in body" Text="I am looking for an MP3 player for running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Must have**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - display (rudimentary is fine, but no button-only operation)&#xD;&#xA; - shuffle play (random selection for playback)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Nice to have**:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - runner friendly&#xD;&#xA;   - light weight  &#xD;&#xA;   - easy to hold, or small, with a clip, strongly prefer wrist wearable&#xD;&#xA;   - show elapsed running time&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth (a bonus would be the ability to turn off BT when using wired 'phones, to conserve the battery); BT should not preclude use of wired 'phones&#xD;&#xA; - some built in memory (even 1GB would be enough; although I could live with micro SD card only)  &#xD;&#xA; - playlists (so that I can have one fast-tempo list for running, plus one for all music, maybe one for audio books; note: I do not mind having two copies of a song on the device if I want it in two playlists)  &#xD;&#xA; - somewhat rugged (meaning reasonably drop &amp; scratch proof, not military grade - not adding too much to size/weight/price)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Bonus features**: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  - built in pedometer&#xD;&#xA;  - auto-detect when running starts &amp; stops  &#xD;&#xA;  - report calories burned (based on pedometer - which I can already get from Garmin)  &#xD;&#xA;  - good battery life  &#xD;&#xA;  - supports MP3, FLAC, Ogg Vorbis, etc&#xD;&#xA;  - possibly Spotify support? (I only found one &amp; (a) no display (b) expensive)&#xD;&#xA;  - good software for managing it (although I can live with just copying files to/from Windows)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care either way about radio or viewing movies on a pokey little screen. If they don't add to the cost, I can ignore them. Any other runner friendly features that I have missed would be a bonus, as would a personal recommendation of a device that you use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All else being equal, I will go for the cheapest :-) and would prefer something under 35 EUR / GBP £30 / USD $37" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48983" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13598" RevisionGUID="c001e94a-0a3e-40e4-9f2b-85cac5e42ce3" CreationDate="2020-06-03T16:28:15.937" UserId="15865" Text="I'm experimenting with neural networks, and I'd like to buy one of these devices like the [Intel's Neural Compute Stick 2][1] or [Google's Coral Edge Accelerator][2]. However, I'm using Windows 7, and it seems that both of these devices require either Windows 10 or Linux or Mac. I don't want to upgrade to Windows 10.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Are you familiar with a similar product that supports Windows 7?** It doesn't have to be as powerful as these two, as long as it's faster than using the CPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Neural-Compute-Stick-2/dp/B07KT6361R&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://coral.ai/products/accelerator/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48984" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13598" RevisionGUID="c001e94a-0a3e-40e4-9f2b-85cac5e42ce3" CreationDate="2020-06-03T16:28:15.937" UserId="15865" Text="Deep-learning device that supports Windows 7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48985" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13598" RevisionGUID="c001e94a-0a3e-40e4-9f2b-85cac5e42ce3" CreationDate="2020-06-03T16:28:15.937" UserId="15865" Text="&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49012" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13604" RevisionGUID="c76132b6-d492-4f64-a4f6-8d3a412435f8" CreationDate="2020-06-04T07:47:25.150" UserId="10307" Text="One device I found which allows this and is considerably cheaper than the Yoggies were is the [Microuter](https://openwrt.org/toh/gl.inet/gl.inet_gl-usb150) (formal model name [GL.iNet GL-USB150][1]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is somewhat bigger than the Yoggie Pico (mostly longer), but given it runs OpenWRT (albeit customized) it is somewhat more accessible than the Yoggies were at the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-usb150/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49013" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13605" RevisionGUID="a2d668c7-22fe-428e-885b-ce3843d42330" CreationDate="2020-06-04T07:50:03.413" UserId="15922" Text="I am really tired from stutterings and slowings of my 2C/4T 15W Laptop. It has Dual Channel 8GB RAM and a relatively good SSD so I know these are not the bottlenecks. But I'm tired when I upload a relatively small dataset (like, 300-400 MBs) into PyCharm or RStudio my laptop becomes really slow (not only when uploading but also after the upload) and becomes rather unusable. And now I have 2 options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1-) A 600 dollars budget business laptop which has 32GB Single Channel only RAM and 10510U (4C/8T, 15W) with a really nice screen and keyboard. This laptop only is 1 KG.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2-) Asus TUF A15 which is pretty have but comes with a dedicated GPU (1650ti), 8 GBs upgradable Dual Channel RAM and a Ryzen 4800H (8C/16T, 45W). This laptop is heavy as hell and screen although being IPS is pretty dim and colourless.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will not do extreme works in laptop but I expect to study Python and perhaps create some 10.000 lines of applications. If I was 100% sure that the lightweight laptop would be enough and I would not see stuttering in opening applications, running some codes and perhaps creating an indie or casual mobile game; I would buy it. Otherwise, I will probably go with the gaming laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for your suggestions! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49014" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13605" RevisionGUID="a2d668c7-22fe-428e-885b-ce3843d42330" CreationDate="2020-06-04T07:50:03.413" UserId="15922" Text="15W (U Series) or 45W (H Series) for intermediate programming?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49015" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13605" RevisionGUID="a2d668c7-22fe-428e-885b-ce3843d42330" CreationDate="2020-06-04T07:50:03.413" UserId="15922" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;&lt;mobile-workstation&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49016" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13606" RevisionGUID="26075ddd-6429-46bb-8728-22933ade6721" CreationDate="2020-06-04T08:40:21.767" UserId="15922" Text="I don't know what are your overall expectations but I would probably buy Sennheiser HD 200 for that price. In my country there are not many brands so I usually buy the best Sennheiser headphones in my budget range." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49017" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13607" RevisionGUID="67e45c2b-f669-42a1-bfc1-19d40994a005" CreationDate="2020-06-04T08:52:55.980" UserId="15924" Text="Need a scanner, price up to **1000 EUR**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Absolute requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent Linux support under Debian&#xD;&#xA; - Automatic Document Feeder (ADF) for at least 20 pages in A4 format&#xD;&#xA; - Duplex&#xD;&#xA; - At least 300 DPI&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection to computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only packages from Debian repositories required&#xD;&#xA; - Fast operation (we have loads of pages to scan)&#xD;&#xA; - 600 DPI or higher&#xD;&#xA; - Optional scanning to USB stick without any computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Excellent Linux support&quot; in particular means that we can easily start a scan from a tool like gscan2pdf, and it will scan all the pages in the ADF into a single PDF file. It should also be possible to scan some more pages after this and have them added to the same PDF file." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49018" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13607" RevisionGUID="67e45c2b-f669-42a1-bfc1-19d40994a005" CreationDate="2020-06-04T08:52:55.980" UserId="15924" Text="Scanner with excellent Linux support and ADF (up to 1000 EUR)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49019" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13607" RevisionGUID="67e45c2b-f669-42a1-bfc1-19d40994a005" CreationDate="2020-06-04T08:52:55.980" UserId="15924" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49020" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="8f642f56-c573-4233-af9b-11c6cd5793d1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T09:58:03.173" UserId="5531" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest monitors I've found have been:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-c. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo (VA panel instead of IPS); no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076) - not height-adjustable, VA panel not IPS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved, but its not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49021" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="8f642f56-c573-4233-af9b-11c6cd5793d1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T09:58:03.173" UserId="5531" Text="32&quot; curved 4K (UHD) monitor with adjustable stand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49022" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="8f642f56-c573-4233-af9b-11c6cd5793d1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T09:58:03.173" UserId="5531" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49029" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13611" RevisionGUID="c059c18d-e9c5-44b5-8160-e3727989b64c" CreationDate="2020-06-04T12:29:08.307" UserId="15926" Text="we are looking to overhaul the hardware in use in our warehouse environment. I would like to go for thin clients, with a browser only interface (the only app these clients will be accessing is a web front end, asuthenticated seperately from our Active Directory).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, we have a real issue with users leaving the existing hardware logged in. so we lose and any all auditing. So, I would like to employe NFC or smart card unlocking/authentication to the TC only (i.e. I am not after using this to pass through to a remote or virtual desktop environment).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can't see anything via standard searches. Anyone done anything like this or aware of any hardware that supports such a setup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49030" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13611" RevisionGUID="c059c18d-e9c5-44b5-8160-e3727989b64c" CreationDate="2020-06-04T12:29:08.307" UserId="15926" Text="Thin Clients that support hardware authentication tokens (Smart Card, NFC etc)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49031" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13611" RevisionGUID="c059c18d-e9c5-44b5-8160-e3727989b64c" CreationDate="2020-06-04T12:29:08.307" UserId="15926" Text="&lt;nfc&gt;&lt;smartcards&gt;&lt;thin-client&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49035" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="f25149d5-401d-4078-8757-83082fb2e0ee" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:08:00.887" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49038" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13614" RevisionGUID="e28e5e15-c8f9-4704-9d6d-4a86fb342a0b" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:38:06.420" UserId="15928" Text="While connecting our small school to a new building, we're facing a problem: a tiny road splits &quot;campus&quot; in two, and we're not allowed to pass fiber cable over the street. Initially, we were planning to lay a 10Gbit fiber optic cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any radio repeaters/antennas that can reliably keep the connection with an optimal quality grade? Distance between two points 8/10 meters. What costs, equipment and performance (speed &amp; latency) may I expect?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49039" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13614" RevisionGUID="e28e5e15-c8f9-4704-9d6d-4a86fb342a0b" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:38:06.420" UserId="15928" Text="Reliable, high performance radio link?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49040" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13614" RevisionGUID="e28e5e15-c8f9-4704-9d6d-4a86fb342a0b" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:38:06.420" UserId="15928" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49041" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13615" RevisionGUID="a9c1e17f-7731-4f94-8a0e-c5f16f64d32f" CreationDate="2020-06-04T19:32:26.550" UserId="15929" Text="I have a bluetooth mouse and keyboard which I use for my personal and work laptops, sometimes they will both be on at the same time and I'll need to switch between them. This is a bit of a pain, is there anything on the market which makes this easier? I'm envisaging a sort of hub to manage the devices - similar to a KVM switch, does any such thing exist? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49042" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13615" RevisionGUID="a9c1e17f-7731-4f94-8a0e-c5f16f64d32f" CreationDate="2020-06-04T19:32:26.550" UserId="15929" Text="Hub for bluetooth mouse and keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49043" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13615" RevisionGUID="a9c1e17f-7731-4f94-8a0e-c5f16f64d32f" CreationDate="2020-06-04T19:32:26.550" UserId="15929" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49044" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13615" RevisionGUID="b72e92c0-672c-4f22-b270-60e2364b7746" CreationDate="2020-06-04T19:41:09.463" UserId="15929" Comment="added 96 characters in body" Text="I have a bluetooth mouse and keyboard which I use for my personal and work laptops, sometimes they will both be on at the same time and I'll need to switch between them. This is a bit of a pain, is there anything on the market which makes this easier? I'm envisaging a sort of hub to manage the devices and switch the direction of the input from mouse and keyboard to the active device - similar to a KVM switch, does any such thing exist for bluetooth?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49066" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13618" RevisionGUID="b24d7f76-6a11-4884-8c63-5fca33df9816" CreationDate="2020-06-05T07:46:29.107" UserId="15883" Text="Maybe you could get something like this [USB Switch][1] and attach a Bluetooth adaptor to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It allows you to connect up to 4 USB devices and then it can connect to up to 2 PCs / Laptop with a single USB cable. With the touch of a button you will be able to switch between PCs / Laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Sharing-Keyboard-Scanner-Printer-Black/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb%20kvm&amp;qid=1591343035&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49067" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13618" RevisionGUID="fbccb3b3-fb5f-460d-9182-e747ebf201a0" CreationDate="2020-06-05T07:58:20.203" UserId="15883" Comment="added due to extra information" Text="You could get something like this [USB Switch][1] and attach a USB Bluetooth adaptor to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It allows you to connect up to 4 USB devices and then it can connect to up to 2 PCs / Laptop with a single USB cable. With the touch of a button you will be able to switch between PCs / Laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Sharing-Keyboard-Scanner-Printer-Black/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb%20kvm&amp;qid=1591343035&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49072" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="f67d2a1e-69e1-436f-9c11-85a710617107" CreationDate="2020-06-05T12:05:50.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49079" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13622" RevisionGUID="3f01e89e-1540-4b6c-ba6b-f42e7af231c5" CreationDate="2020-06-05T17:02:14.080" UserId="7006" Text="I'm aiming to buy a USB Camera (&quot;webcam&quot;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to buy any USB gadgets that don't use USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are different types of USB-C, I think?  I think I don't want to buy anything older than/less than USB 3.1 gen2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why?  Because I remember having USB 1.1 gadgets around the house for years after 2.0 came out and I didn't like it.  Never again!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I suspect that my future USB hosts (desktops, laptops, etc) might only have USB-C ports.  Am I right about that?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would also like the camera to have the [standard threaded camera mount](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripod_%28photography%29#Screw_thread), but I guess that's a lower priority for me than the type of USB interface is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which camera should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49080" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13622" RevisionGUID="3f01e89e-1540-4b6c-ba6b-f42e7af231c5" CreationDate="2020-06-05T17:02:14.080" UserId="7006" Text="USB-C (version 3.1 gen 2?) Camera" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49081" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13622" RevisionGUID="3f01e89e-1540-4b6c-ba6b-f42e7af231c5" CreationDate="2020-06-05T17:02:14.080" UserId="7006" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49083" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13623" RevisionGUID="33cf8f40-286e-426a-99e7-984567f20d01" CreationDate="2020-06-05T17:21:40.503" UserId="7006" Text="I ended up buying a used Pixel 2 XL (Google edition).  It meets all of my requirements except the MicroSD card, and the &quot;unlockable&quot; rating is &quot;BEST&quot;, according to that scale I defined." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49085" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13624" RevisionGUID="d9585053-0520-4514-abd9-1f7ebe3eae3b" CreationDate="2020-06-05T18:23:18.300" UserId="15883" Text="I got this LCD Display out of a digital advert that was given away for free in a UK newspaper, I can not remember which nespaper, around Christmas time displaying a Christmas advert and wondered if I could re-purpose it?[![LCD Display][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried connecting this to both my Raspberry Pi and Raspberry Pi W but the ribbon cable was far too big. Is there an adaptor I can buy to make this fit?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or perhaps an [LCD Control Board][2], or similar item, to make this able to connect via HDMI?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The part number is C397CWV07 V1.0 2019.08.06.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKbZ2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/controller-Laptop-monitor-M-NT68676-2A-provide/dp/B00KYOMSUW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49086" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13624" RevisionGUID="d9585053-0520-4514-abd9-1f7ebe3eae3b" CreationDate="2020-06-05T18:23:18.300" UserId="15883" Text="Is there a LCD Control Board Available for this display or an adaptor to connect to a Raspberry Pi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49087" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13624" RevisionGUID="d9585053-0520-4514-abd9-1f7ebe3eae3b" CreationDate="2020-06-05T18:23:18.300" UserId="15883" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="f249223a-ee1b-42f3-898b-38166d9abe87" CreationDate="2020-06-05T19:39:14.123" UserId="5531" Comment="HP, DELL 32&quot; 4K - no speakers!" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest monitors I've found have been:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-c. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo (VA panel instead of IPS); no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable, VA panel not IPS&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - not curved, [no built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/)&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - not curved, apparently no built-in speakers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved, but its not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49102" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="d7b00937-e2e3-43c1-9254-49c5076e0f98" CreationDate="2020-06-06T20:03:25.353" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49104" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13626" RevisionGUID="634136ab-1869-4027-bf26-c6ebb9b9f33b" CreationDate="2020-06-07T15:25:32.133" UserId="15940" Text="I have Wacom Intuos CTL-4100 tablet.  I am using this with Xournal++ software (on ubuntu), works pretty well.  It has pressure sensitivity.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main downside in my opinion is that as it is not touchscreen but essentially a trackpad, you have to watch your screen, not your hand while writing, and handwriting is a bit worse than on paper.  But good enough for text/equations/adding comments to slides.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is cheap, and you can choose for a variety of larger and smaller models." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49105" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12643" RevisionGUID="a04f572d-9be2-4850-b50f-60069e5ee26a" CreationDate="2020-06-07T22:05:10.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49106" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="42ab8e85-a593-47d5-870b-eb17a662e19d" CreationDate="2020-06-07T23:43:33.460" UserId="9825" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide a gigabit of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ and at http://www.koruza.net/features/ &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49107" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="f0e9f6f1-cb49-4e7b-8fa8-a628f9181b3f" CreationDate="2020-06-07T23:50:53.227" UserId="9825" Comment="added 195 characters in body" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide a gigabit of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ and at http://www.koruza.net/features/ . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; Ronza offers a DIY 10 Mbps kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="f411664f-6c94-4b97-8f5c-aa2ae43b3b28" CreationDate="2020-06-07T23:56:19.997" UserId="9825" Comment="added 195 characters in body" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ and at http://www.koruza.net/features/ . &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; Ronza offers a DIY 10 Mbps kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49109" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="a7b30d23-4773-4b1e-9cdf-3bf905c9dae4" CreationDate="2020-06-08T00:02:45.243" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ , at http://www.koruza.net/features/ , and http://quickstart.koruza.net/ for less than two thousand Euros (VAT &amp; freight not included). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; Ronza offers a DIY 10 Mbps kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49110" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="9c2a3361-177f-41ba-b4f2-67757cf52233" CreationDate="2020-06-08T00:07:55.993" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ , at http://www.koruza.net/features/ , and http://quickstart.koruza.net/ for less than two thousand Euros (VAT &amp; freight not included). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would expect &lt; 1ms latency per [this study][2] .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; [BlackBox][3] also offers professional grade infrared laser optical bridges, and Ronza offers a DIY 10 Mbps kit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328544938_Outdoor_Measurements_Using_an_Optical_Wireless_Link_for_Fixed-Access_Applications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/page/22200/Solutions/By-Technology/Networking-Solutions/Wireless-Networking/laserlink-fso-and-rf-bridges" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49111" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="691420bd-09cb-4575-89dd-fa62b86330a7" CreationDate="2020-06-08T00:15:44.997" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="You are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ , at http://www.koruza.net/features/ , and http://quickstart.koruza.net/ for less than two thousand Euros (VAT &amp; freight not included). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would expect &lt; 1ms latency per [this study][2] .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; [BlackBox][3] also offers professional grade infrared laser optical bridges as well as 60 GHz radio bridges, and [Ronja][4] offers a DIY 10 Mbps optical kit if you are have severe budgetary constraints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328544938_Outdoor_Measurements_Using_an_Optical_Wireless_Link_for_Fixed-Access_Applications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/page/22200/Solutions/By-Technology/Networking-Solutions/Wireless-Networking/laserlink-fso-and-rf-bridges&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ronja.twibright.com/models.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49112" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13627" RevisionGUID="f317dc6f-8596-4d8f-b97a-fe389ab25923" CreationDate="2020-06-08T00:20:46.543" UserId="9825" Comment="added 95 characters in body" Text="[BlackBox][5] offers professional radio bridge links, but you are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/ , at http://www.koruza.net/features/ , and http://quickstart.koruza.net/ for less than two thousand Euros (VAT &amp; freight not included). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would expect &lt; 1ms latency per [this study][2] .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Koruza is not the only vendor of **infrared optical laser bridges**, BTW; [BlackBox][3] also offers professional grade infrared laser optical bridges as well as 60 GHz radio bridges, and [Ronja][4] offers a DIY 10 Mbps optical kit if you are have severe budgetary constraints.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328544938_Outdoor_Measurements_Using_an_Optical_Wireless_Link_for_Fixed-Access_Applications&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/page/22200/Solutions/By-Technology/Networking-Solutions/Wireless-Networking/laserlink-fso-and-rf-bridges&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: http://ronja.twibright.com/models.php&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/1587/Bridges" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49113" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="10672c6d-059f-4ac5-b7a5-3006e3f20c84" CreationDate="2020-06-08T12:34:09.030" UserId="5531" Comment="added 1340 characters in body; edited title" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data+power; no built-in speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49114" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="10672c6d-059f-4ac5-b7a5-3006e3f20c84" CreationDate="2020-06-08T12:34:09.030" UserId="5531" Comment="added 1340 characters in body; edited title" Text="32&quot; curved 4K (UHD) IPS monitor with adjustable stand" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49115" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="5da184c2-eca7-4f75-abc2-2951a2b49aa8" CreationDate="2020-06-08T12:42:23.327" UserId="5531" Comment="Sections, USB-C" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49116" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="e750ddd3-97be-4b10-a7e2-840b8dbc134e" CreationDate="2020-06-08T13:07:00.467" UserId="5531" Comment="BenQ " Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49117" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="3a27e5a9-efc1-4de9-9f3b-b7957bed0cae" CreationDate="2020-06-08T13:31:15.863" UserId="5531" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49118" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="1202f653-bfa3-48e6-acfc-3ad95b55a83f" CreationDate="2020-06-08T13:38:42.600" UserId="5531" Comment="ViewSonic Amazon link" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49128" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12005" RevisionGUID="a71a093b-2936-4005-8f05-3dfb77b6139f" CreationDate="2020-06-08T22:07:05.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49133" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="4127465e-77e6-448a-ba5c-0f2e37610bbe" CreationDate="2020-06-09T18:21:02.150" UserId="14061" Text="Anyone ought to be familiar with a 120v power meter, or watt meter, such as the *kill-a-watt* brand of watt meter like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkTYo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are easily found online... amazon... less than $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one that will do 208 volt single phase and be able to be used in a server room where rack servers run on 208 volt power using those female type 208v power cords and the PDU's that are in a server rack?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use some kind of watt meter that will measure wattage/amperage on 208v for just one server running, to understand the power draw of a given server when it is on but idle vs when software is crunching on it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49134" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="4127465e-77e6-448a-ba5c-0f2e37610bbe" CreationDate="2020-06-09T18:21:02.150" UserId="14061" Text="208 volt watt meter for servers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49135" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="4127465e-77e6-448a-ba5c-0f2e37610bbe" CreationDate="2020-06-09T18:21:02.150" UserId="14061" Text="&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49137" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="9a06829d-8100-4fd9-a5be-98b36157389b" CreationDate="2020-06-09T18:29:38.683" UserId="14061" Comment="added 350 characters in body" Text="Anyone ought to be familiar with a 120v power meter, or watt meter, such as the *kill-a-watt* brand of watt meter like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkTYo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are easily found online... amazon... less than $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one that will do 208 volt single phase and be able to be used in a server room where rack servers run on 208 volt power using those female type 208v power cords and the PDU's that are in a server rack?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use some kind of watt meter that will measure wattage/amperage on 208v for just one server running, to understand the power draw of a given server when it is on but idle vs when software is crunching on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And i don't need a convenient all in one meter like in the pic.  I am ok with building a box and doing any wiring to make a safe and temporary connection to make a amp/watt measurement.  So any kind of amperage or watt [panel] meter I am ok with if it is not overly expensive and reasonably accurate in the 20 watt to 5000 watt range at 208 volt." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49138" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12012" RevisionGUID="d38073b2-c54f-4392-a797-37622a59e6ca" CreationDate="2020-06-09T19:07:05.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13631" RevisionGUID="44677a47-1f90-4f9b-9587-e8554f6ca2b0" CreationDate="2020-06-09T19:33:57.397" UserId="14280" Text="I would say that it is better to get an adjustable VESA stand on Amazon, than to actively search out for a monitor with an adjustable stand on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Hemundu Monitor Stand][1]   &#xD;&#xA;[VIVO Monitor Stand][2]  &#xD;&#xA;[VIVO Tall Monitor Stand][3]  &#xD;&#xA;[AmazonBasics Monitor Stand][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-Rotation-HT05B-001/dp/B07Q79ZZJ6/ref=sr_1_35?crid=30GR9WVJFP654&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=adjustable%20vesa%20mount&amp;qid=1591731025&amp;sprefix=adjustable%20vesa%20%2Caps%2C258&amp;sr=8-35&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/ref=sr_1_49?crid=30GR9WVJFP654&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=adjustable%20vesa%20mount&amp;qid=1591731025&amp;sprefix=adjustable%20vesa%20%2Caps%2C258&amp;sr=8-49&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/ref=sr_1_49?crid=30GR9WVJFP654&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=adjustable%2Bvesa%2Bmount&amp;qid=1591731025&amp;sprefix=adjustable%2Bvesa%2B%2Caps%2C258&amp;sr=8-49&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-K001575-LCD-Monitor-Riser/dp/B01IFTYW3I/ref=sr_1_15?crid=30GR9WVJFP654&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=adjustable%20vesa%20mount&amp;qid=1591731025&amp;sprefix=adjustable%20vesa%20%2Caps%2C258&amp;sr=8-15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="f4b026e2-f880-41e0-bf9b-18469227d3bb" CreationDate="2020-06-10T14:15:05.823" UserId="14061" Comment="added 654 characters in body" Text="Anyone ought to be familiar with a 120v power meter, or watt meter, such as the *kill-a-watt* brand of watt meter like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are easily found online... amazon... less than $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one that will do 208 volt single phase and be able to be used in a server room where rack servers run on 208 volt power using those female type 208v power cords and the PDU's that are in a server rack?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use some kind of watt meter that will measure wattage/amperage on 208v for just one server running, to understand the power draw of a given server when it is on but idle vs when software is crunching on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And i don't need a convenient all in one meter like in the pic.  I am ok with building a box and doing any wiring to make a safe and temporary connection to make a amp/watt measurement.  So any kind of amperage or watt [panel] meter I am ok with if it is not overly expensive and reasonably accurate in the 20 watt to 5000 watt range at 208 volt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is what a PDU (power distribution unit) within a server rack looks like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkTYo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIgA5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power cable from this PDU to the wall, has an L6-30P *plug* where the receptacle on the wall is an L6-30R.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where I want to measure is after the PDU, coming from one of its **C14** receptacles.  I have plenty of C14 power cords I can cut a few up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.webberelectronics.com/info/iec-chart&#xD;&#xA;The actual socket might be C18/C19/C20, I don't know and it kinda doesn't matter because I have plenty of those power cords that I can use to wire up an amperage/watt meter.  I am basically just looking for any kind of panel meter that will measure amperage/wattage at 208 volt." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49141" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13630" RevisionGUID="19b498f1-257e-40d2-984a-841c69fd261a" CreationDate="2020-06-10T14:46:48.693" UserId="14061" Comment="added 7 characters in body" Text="Anyone ought to be familiar with a 120v power meter, or watt meter, such as the *kill-a-watt* brand of watt meter like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are easily found online... amazon... less than $20.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there one that will do 208 volt single phase and be able to be used in a server room where rack servers run on 208 volt power using those female type 208v power cords and the PDU's that are in a server rack?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to use some kind of watt meter that will measure wattage/amperage on 208v for just one server running, to understand the power draw of a given server when it is on but idle vs when software is crunching on it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And i don't need a convenient all in one meter like in the pic.  I am ok with building a box and doing any wiring to make a safe and temporary connection to make a amp/watt measurement.  So any kind of amperage or watt [panel] meter I am ok with if it is not overly expensive and reasonably accurate in the 20 watt to 5000 watt range at 208 volt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is what a PDU (power distribution unit) within a server rack looks like.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkTYo.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIgA5.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The power cable from this PDU to the wall, has an L6-30P *plug* where the receptacle on the wall is an L6-30R.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where I want to measure is after the PDU, coming from one of its eleven **C14** receptacles.  I have plenty of C14 power cords I can cut a few up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.webberelectronics.com/info/iec-chart&#xD;&#xA;The actual socket might be C18/C19/C20, I don't know and it kinda doesn't matter because I have plenty of those power cords that I can use to wire up an amperage/watt meter.  I am basically just looking for any kind of panel meter that will measure amperage/wattage at 208 volt." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="2632d00c-d2c6-46bc-acfe-39e575466c64" CreationDate="2020-06-10T18:01:05.327" UserId="5531" Comment="ViewSonic dumb stand is too tall at the minimum setting." Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fix stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor is exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49152" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12351" RevisionGUID="629561f1-87c8-4aae-924c-eab12c0114ac" CreationDate="2020-06-11T16:02:45.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49170" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12021" RevisionGUID="ad6531a1-6f0f-4945-8eb5-e1568cffdb8e" CreationDate="2020-06-12T22:05:50.657" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49189" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13399" RevisionGUID="03a9bc87-1c28-4e59-a868-cdba55fcb80a" CreationDate="2020-06-13T18:04:55.457" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13526" RevisionGUID="997dff33-9a42-4f91-9878-13a2ee358e7c" CreationDate="2020-06-13T19:02:00.103" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="I have the following problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 5.1 surround sound system using a Sony AV receiver. This is connected to multiple devices for audio, including my PC. Since the PC is a little bit far away from the AV receiver and there are power cables along the way I decided to connect the PC with an optical cable (SPDIF) to the AV receiver. This works, but unfortunately the driver for the onboard sound card of my mainboard is not capable of using the digital output for surround sound. All I get is stereo. I don't want to use the analog jacks, as they would need to be at least 5m long and run right next to mains power cables. Using the analog jacks would also require 3 cables instead of just one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I am looking for a relatively cheap (&lt;100€) sound card for the PC that can be used for at least 5.1 surround sound over optical. This needs to work with Windows 10 and Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: Please only suggest things available in Europe." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49191" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13526" RevisionGUID="997dff33-9a42-4f91-9878-13a2ee358e7c" CreationDate="2020-06-13T19:02:00.103" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 15871 edit id of 1106" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49192" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6702" RevisionGUID="3b82e69c-abec-40f5-b864-b371cacc45c5" CreationDate="2020-06-13T22:03:30.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49193" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9495" RevisionGUID="98f3fabe-0f0f-4575-aca9-0a2f054fa2b7" CreationDate="2020-06-14T00:48:32.997" UserId="7888" Comment="added 215 characters in body" Text="I actually have a multi-button mouse that works well and fits my requirements (a [Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical 1.1A](https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-D58-00026-Intellimouse-Optical-Mouse/dp/B00005TQ08)), but I use keymappings and button mappings a lot on my Mac and would like a mouse **with more buttons** that I can customize.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried plugging in a friend's Razer mouse to my MacBook Pro (can't find the model but it had a keypad under the thumb with a round button in the center and seven numbered buttons around that).  However, the mouse showed up as a keyboard to my Mac (though the cursor moved fine), and I couldn't get the extra buttons recognized as mouse clicks in the customization software I use (which is BetterTouchTool).  On a Windows 7 computer I opened up Notepad and the extra buttons just typed in their number (i.e. button 1 typed a &quot;1&quot;, etc.).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use mostly a Mac (El Capitan 10.11.6), plus a Windows 7 computer at work, and occasionally a Linux desktop.  I want the mouse to work on any of these out of the box, with the possibility for custom mappings on any of these OSes (perhaps requiring third party software).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;- Scroll wheel&#xD;&#xA;- I don't know about optical or laser, but it should work on a wooden desk without a trackpad (which my current optical mouse does fine).&#xD;&#xA;- Must have MORE THAN five buttons to be worth changing.  My current mouse has left click, right click, middle click, plus two extra buttons (one on each side).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  The more buttons the better so long as they are usably arranged and show up as MOUSE CLICKS to whatever customization software, not as key presses.&#xD;&#xA;- Must work on Linux, Mac and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- Must appear to the computer as a mouse and not as a keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;- Don't care about price if it fits all the above requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(Feel free to educate me on the mouse/keyboard recognition point as I expect there is probably more in play here than just the physical mouse hardware itself.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mice with just five buttons (rather than six or more) that fit all the other requirements are also of interest to me, since I just have the one five-button mouse and it's a model that isn't manufactured anymore." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49194" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13642" RevisionGUID="e67207fe-4837-4fa1-bbcd-f2ec95f811ca" CreationDate="2020-06-14T05:25:51.590" UserId="9588" Text="One of the lighest weight large screen monitor especially for travel is the AOC E2351F at 2.5kg official weight total. The monitor can stand on it's &quot;easel&quot; and if you wish to lift it off the table and travel with the stand, you should know the tube part of the stand comes off with a single screw  which is very easy to manipulate by hand -- it's not a thumbscrew it has a &quot;flap&quot;. I looked far and wide and this is pretty much the only monitor doing this except for an even older slightly smaller AOC which was DisplayLink so that's garbage. This one also uses a 12V AC/DC adapter with a 5.5mmx2.5mm plug which is easy to get very lightweight variants of. Any monitor which has a C13/C14 connector is IMO too thick out of necessity to be suitable for travel, the AC/DC adapter needs to be separate to avoid the bulky connector and to make it easy to convert the plug internationally. A C7/C8 could work but for some reason I never saw any doing that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuMlw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7Rg7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49195" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13642" RevisionGUID="ee78daed-37aa-4aca-9c87-c307e85f4289" CreationDate="2020-06-14T05:31:06.950" UserId="9588" Comment="added 347 characters in body" Text="Physical format wise, the Asus ProArt PQ22UC can not be beaten. Slim everywhere, no bulging for connectors, slick folding stand, light weight (only 1.5 kg without stand). It is also an ~5000 USD professional 4K OLED monitor which pretty much rules it out for travel. Wish a similar monitor existed with a far cheaper panel but same package.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the lighest weight large screen monitor especially well suited for travel is the AOC E2351F at 2.5kg official weight total. The monitor can stand on it's &quot;easel&quot; and if you wish to lift it off the table and travel with the stand, you should know the tube part of the stand comes off with a single screw which is very easy to manipulate by hand -- it's not a thumbscrew it has a &quot;flap&quot;. The base of the stand is plastic, further lowering weight. I looked far and wide and this is pretty much the only monitor doing this except for an even older slightly smaller AOC which was DisplayLink so that's garbage. This one also uses a 12V AC/DC adapter with a 5.5mmx2.5mm plug which is easy to get very lightweight variants of. Any monitor which has a C13/C14 connector is IMO too thick out of necessity to be suitable for travel, the AC/DC adapter needs to be separate to avoid the bulky connector and to make it easy to convert the plug internationally. A C7/C8 could work but for some reason I never saw any doing that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuMlw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7Rg7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13646" RevisionGUID="41c254e7-b918-4d3d-940d-eba0ee5e1986" CreationDate="2020-06-14T22:53:58.503" UserId="15958" Text="From the first smartphones, I've always been an Android user, and have never owned a iOS based device. Every time I find myself trying to operate some function with someone's iPhone, it isn't pretty. &#xA;&#xA;That said, for the first time, I need an iPad, and when I search for them on eBay, I have no idea what I'm looking at, and don't understand why the prices range so widely. I'd prefer a used device for no other reason than the value over new.&#xA;&#xA;I own a small commercial drone services business with 3 aircraft in the fleet. The vast majority of the work conducted with drones require the use of a mobile device application. Most app developers offer both iOS and Android versions, with a few choosing to use iOS. However, in nearly every drone app I use, the iOS version of these Android apps are far more stable and feature-rich. &#xA;&#xA;Here's the requirements:&#xA;&#xA;1. 7&quot;+ iOS tablet&#xA;2. WiFi Only, no cellular capabilities&#xA;3. Processing Power and RAM to ensure minimal risk of crashing when running drone ground control and mapping apps&#xA;4. $150 or less&#xA;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13646" RevisionGUID="41c254e7-b918-4d3d-940d-eba0ee5e1986" CreationDate="2020-06-14T22:53:58.503" UserId="15958" Text="Best iPad Tablet Model For DJI Drone Apps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13646" RevisionGUID="41c254e7-b918-4d3d-940d-eba0ee5e1986" CreationDate="2020-06-14T22:53:58.503" UserId="15958" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;apple&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49216" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="40406991-123c-4f10-a3fc-e52d6b68f429" CreationDate="2020-06-15T07:54:37.660" UserId="5531" Comment="Add the LG 5K2K. ViewSonic is 30Hz only." Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13647" RevisionGUID="051989d2-10ca-43ed-aad6-d153eb8bcd75" CreationDate="2020-06-16T10:22:53.423" UserId="15961" Text="For testing purposes I need a portable router, i.e. providing the connection from a SIM card, that offers the possibility of reducing the bandwidth at will. I did a bit of research, but can't find detailed information on all the capabilities of this kind of routers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you guys have any portable router with this specific feature?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49218" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13647" RevisionGUID="051989d2-10ca-43ed-aad6-d153eb8bcd75" CreationDate="2020-06-16T10:22:53.423" UserId="15961" Text="Portable router with QoS feature?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49219" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13647" RevisionGUID="051989d2-10ca-43ed-aad6-d153eb8bcd75" CreationDate="2020-06-16T10:22:53.423" UserId="15961" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49247" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="ff0cab75-1be6-445d-89b1-d21a9ca6a2c7" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:07:17.367" UserId="1410" Comment="added 78 characters in body; edited title" Text="So, I just found [Papyr](https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/02/06/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Raytac MDBT50 module with Nordic nRF52840 BLE/802.15.4 SoC&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     1.54 inch 200x200 pixel red/black/white epaper display - GDEW0154Z04&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     CR2477 coin cell holder&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Micro USB (device)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     RGB LED&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     NFC (PCB) antenna&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Push button&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     USB/Battery power switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Extra GPIOs&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     SWD Programming header&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Mounting holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a similar device, but with BLE5.1, for it's [AoA/Aod](https://www.bluetooth.com/blog/new-aoa-aod-bluetooth-capabilities/) Location features, so that I can use it as a tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any small (dev) board with BLE ***5.1*** will do (I am processor agnostic), but it ***must***  have a display - either eInk or OLED (even TFT), but preferably something battery friendly - and it ***must*** be either on-board or easily connected with something like a Grove connector; absolutely no soldering or hardware knowledge required. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A major bonus is an on-board debugger; failing that ability to us a J-TAG probe would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrnS3.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49248" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="ff0cab75-1be6-445d-89b1-d21a9ca6a2c7" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:07:17.367" UserId="1410" Comment="added 78 characters in body; edited title" Text="BLE5.1 with on-board eInk (or any kind of display)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49249" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13654" RevisionGUID="50c9f421-5028-4c96-b2b9-e4822748eae2" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:14:41.030" UserId="1410" Text="Having has no success with my question [BLE5.1 with on-board eInk (or any kind of display)](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12435/ble5-1-with-on-board-eink-or-any-kind-of-display), I will contemplate an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's swap the display for wearability. Is there a BLE 5.1 dev board with battery attachment (preferably a cell type battery, but any is acceptable) - no soldering required? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that it must be at least BLE 5.1, as previous versions, including BLE 5.0, do not support the AoA/AoD which I seek." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49250" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13654" RevisionGUID="50c9f421-5028-4c96-b2b9-e4822748eae2" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:14:41.030" UserId="1410" Text="BLE 5.1 wearable dev board" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49251" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13654" RevisionGUID="50c9f421-5028-4c96-b2b9-e4822748eae2" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:14:41.030" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13654" RevisionGUID="6a6d3f6a-5874-4787-8379-f81fdbcf2d82" CreationDate="2020-06-17T09:03:33.290" UserId="1410" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="Having has no success with my question [BLE5.1 with on-board eInk (or any kind of display)](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/12435/ble5-1-with-on-board-eink-or-any-kind-of-display), I will contemplate an alternative.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let's swap the display for wearability. Is there a BLE 5.1 dev board with battery attachment (preferably a cell type battery, but any is acceptable) - no soldering required? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please note that it must be at least BLE 5.1, as previous versions, including BLE 5.0, do not support the AoA/AoD which I seek.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] an on-board debugger would be preferable, although I can live with a JTAG probe (or even print over serial port)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49264" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="e3f82951-f0e6-4a0f-b916-08c4d5ef8785" CreationDate="2020-06-17T12:13:57.663" UserId="10273" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The asus, has quotas per device too, but they are fixed, or the automatic system does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice). i.e. in asus you can limit quota per device (not auto) or use auto. quota, but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. ). So it simply does not work for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49265" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="e3f82951-f0e6-4a0f-b916-08c4d5ef8785" CreationDate="2020-06-17T12:13:57.663" UserId="10273" Text="Router with OpenVPN and intelligent quota limit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49266" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="e3f82951-f0e6-4a0f-b916-08c4d5ef8785" CreationDate="2020-06-17T12:13:57.663" UserId="10273" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49272" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="d9708bb2-3176-442a-bd51-be0a97c3d984" CreationDate="2020-06-17T16:56:22.903" UserId="10273" Comment="added 586 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The asus, has quotas per device too, but they are fixed (fig 1), or, the automatic system does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). i.e. in Asus you can limit quota per device (not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota, but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. ). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes do not work at the same time, you have to choose)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional QoS). If several devices, one can get most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49273" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="220d1d2d-0b0b-4705-963d-9ab745b24d13" CreationDate="2020-06-17T17:11:17.963" UserId="10273" Comment="added 241 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The asus, has quotas per device too, but they are fixed (fig 1), or, the automatic system does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). i.e. in Asus you can limit quota per device (not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota, but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. ). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes do not work at the same time, you have to choose)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [emulator link](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional QoS). If several devices, one can get most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49274" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="e9533a47-be34-4b46-861c-ebfd15ce41b9" CreationDate="2020-06-17T17:28:14.570" UserId="10273" Comment="added 242 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature. To be more specific, I use the VPN as client. not Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Asus you can limit quota per device (bandwidth - not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota (QoS), but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. [in some routers this has two branches traditional or Adaptive QoS ]). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes [Bandwidth vs QoS] do not work at the same time) [asus emulator](http://demoui.asus.com/QoS_EZQoS.asp),   [QoS](https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1010951/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the Asus has quotas per device (Bandwidth), but they are fixed (fig 1), or, the automatic system (QoS) that does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [tp-link emulator](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn as client)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional or adaptive QoS). If several devices, one of them can monopolize most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49275" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="71f1871c-db2c-4f18-9829-920e91afc4c1" CreationDate="2020-06-17T17:36:34.477" UserId="10273" Comment="added 90 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature. To be more specific, I use the VPN as client. not Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Asus you can limit quota per device (bandwidth - not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota (QoS), but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. [in some routers this has two branches traditional or Adaptive QoS ]). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes [Bandwidth vs QoS] do not work at the same time) [asus emulator](http://demoui.asus.com/QoS_EZQoS.asp),   [QoS](https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1010951/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the Asus has quotas per device (Bandwidth), but they are fixed (fig 1), or, the automatic system (QoS) that does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [tp-link emulator](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn as client)? The tp-link Archer AX1500 won't work. Does not have VPN (Openvpn) as Client, only server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional or adaptive QoS). If several devices, one of them can monopolize most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49277" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="e9f94c01-05f7-4a9d-8067-7817c40f78c5" CreationDate="2020-06-17T19:05:15.587" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49278" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="1186c878-d468-4a5a-940c-ddb6a3e81b0e" CreationDate="2020-06-17T19:38:42.147" UserId="10273" Comment="added 60 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature. To be more specific, I use the VPN as client. not Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Asus you can limit quota per device (bandwidth - not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota (QoS), but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. [in some routers this has two branches traditional or Adaptive QoS ]). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes [Bandwidth vs QoS] do not work at the same time) [asus emulator](http://demoui.asus.com/QoS_EZQoS.asp),   [QoS](https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1010951/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the Asus has quotas per device (Bandwidth), but they do not adapt to the current situation (number of active devices, etc) (fig 1), or, the automatic system (QoS) that does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [tp-link emulator](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn as client)? The tp-link Archer AX1500 won't work. Does not have VPN (Openvpn) as Client, only server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional or adaptive QoS). If several devices, one of them can monopolize most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49279" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="2e31cdd6-778d-41e7-a49a-a4c9fb356619" CreationDate="2020-06-17T22:12:14.957" UserId="10273" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature. To be more specific, I use the VPN as client. not Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Asus you can limit quota per device (bandwidth - not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota (QoS), but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. [in some routers this has two branches traditional or Adaptive QoS ]). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes [Bandwidth vs QoS] do not work at the same time) [asus emulator](http://demoui.asus.com/QoS_EZQoS.asp),   [QoS](https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1010951/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the Asus has quotas per device (Bandwidth), but they do not adapt to the current situation (number of active devices, etc) (fig 1), or, the automatic system (QoS) that does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [tp-link emulator](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn as client)? The tp-link Archer AX1500 won't work. Does not have VPN (Openvpn) as Client, only server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional or adaptive QoS). If several devices, one of them can monopolize most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better for several devices (in my small bandwidth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49280" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="940b144c-56b2-491c-bcf0-a76cdeb3a4ab" CreationDate="2020-06-17T22:21:50.157" UserId="10273" Comment="edited title" Text="Router with OpenVPN client and TP-link like bandwidth control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49290" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13661" RevisionGUID="b7c39d55-b247-4aff-af90-6cf2ebce4bcd" CreationDate="2020-06-18T01:42:23.990" UserId="14318" Text="I would like to find a device that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Plugs into the wall outlet.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Plugs into a USB connection to a computer.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Measures the voltage in the wall outlet.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Reports the voltage to the computer, presumably as a HID class device.  (No display needed.)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Is powered by USB, so I can get readings when the power is failed.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Is cheaper than buying a UPS.  (Some UPSes can do everything listed so far, except that they probably provide their own power.)&#xD;&#xA; 7. Is significantly smaller than a UPS.&#xD;&#xA; 8. Can measure to fraction of a volt precision, and finer is better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just to be clear, I do NOT want to measure the voltage of the USB bus.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49291" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13661" RevisionGUID="b7c39d55-b247-4aff-af90-6cf2ebce4bcd" CreationDate="2020-06-18T01:42:23.990" UserId="14318" Text="USB voltmeter, the other way around" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49292" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13661" RevisionGUID="b7c39d55-b247-4aff-af90-6cf2ebce4bcd" CreationDate="2020-06-18T01:42:23.990" UserId="14318" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49296" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6218" RevisionGUID="6688a477-32bd-4b9a-b5fd-15198ee87dea" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# 1. Network switch TAP port&#xA;&#xA;On a switch, the read-only port is often called a &quot;TAP&quot; port...&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;https://observer.viavisolutions.com/includes/popups/taps/tap-vs-span.php&#xA;&#xA;...although different vendors have different names. &#xA;&#xA;This will pass you all the data that goes bettwen the two devices, but the switch essentially reads the incomming packets and then retransmitts them out the TAP port, so the data is buffered and error checked by the switch. You may not see some kinds of packets (like runts or bad CRC), and the timing of the packets will be altered because of the buffering.&#xA;&#xA;# 2. Dedicated tap hardware &#xA;&#xA;These are expensive, but typically give you lower level access to the data. This is good if, say, you need exact timestamps for the packets which are not available on a switch TAP port becuase the packets are buffered. &#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;http://datacomsystems.com/products/network-taps&#xA;&#xA;# 3. Passive hardware tap&#xA;&#xA;If you can get both devices to run at 10Base-T speeds, you can use a passive tap like this one...&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xA;http://hackerwarehouse.com/product/lan-tap-pro/?gclid=COGQ7Y3yqtACFdRMDQodYH4CKg&#xA;&#xA;They are also not hard to make yourself if you have the right tools. A passive tap can show you even media level problems which don't usually show up on the higher level taps.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzfmA.png&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qfnV.jpg&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfK4f.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49297" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1664" RevisionGUID="8935b8af-8f96-42a8-8b13-dc2c7d5a9650" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="&gt; I just want to be able to play all my expansions I have about 5 expansions and on my current set up I can only play 2 expansions without horrible lag times.&#xA;&#xA;The recommendation could be better if you include the specifications of the computer that has the lags in your question, so we can analyze where the bottleneck in your current setup is and if the newer hardware would be a substantial improvement.&#xA;&#xA;That being said, *The Sims 3* was released in [2009][1], [is based on DirectX 9 and has moderate hardware requirements][2]. A fairly obvious case one might say?&#xA;&#xA;# Core i3-4170 vs. Core i5-6400 GPU&#xA;&#xA;For comparison of Intel GPUs there is a separate [article in Wikipedia][3] that gives a really useful overview, combined with the data in the lists for all the Intel processors (list-type Wikipedia links are/were banned on some SE sites, but they are not hard to find) we get this:&#xA;&#xA;- Core i3-4170 GPU runs at 350–1150 MHz, TDP 54 W&#xA;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 4200, *4400*, 4600, P4600, P4700 – GT2, 20 execution units, up to 432 GFLOPS at 1350 MHz&#xA;&#xA;- Core i5-6400 GPU runs at 350–950 MHz, TDP 65 W&#xA;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 530, GT2 – 24 execution units, up to 441.6 GFLOPS at 1.15 GHz&#xA;&#xA;- For comparison, the GPU of the Ivy Brigde CPU I have in my T530:&#xA;&#xA;  &gt; HD Graphics 4000 – 16 execution units and additional features, up to 332.8 GFLOPS at 1300 MHz&#xA;&#xA;So just by looking at the GFLOPS, there isn't really any difference between both models but about 30% increase over the older generation.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;# DirectX 9 in 2015 how hard could it be?&#xA;&#xA;Just for a test I ran Tomb Raider (2013, DirectX 11) on the laptops GPU. By lowering the graphics settings I was able to play, but I am much less finicky about lags. With that in mind I thought DOA5:LR based on DirectX 9 in 2015 released on PC would run smooth, but I was wrong. I wouldn't wave off GPU demands so easily anymore. Chances that Sims 3 will run fine however are pretty good, especially when looking at this section from the recommendations:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; For computers using built-in graphics chipsets under Windows, the game requires at least:&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;     Intel Integrated Chipset, GMA 3-Series or above&#xA;&gt;     2.6 GHz Pentium D CPU, or 1.8 GHz Core 2 Duo, or equivalent&#xA;&gt;     0.5 GB additional RAM&#xA;&#xA;Both of your options outperform these requirements, but it's hard to tell which level of detail can be achieved and it doesn't look like there is enough headroom for newer games like [Sims 4][4]. If I was a Sims fan and had to buy a new computer today to play Sims 3, I'd make sure that it would also run Sims 4 from 2014, which is still based on DirectX 9, has moderate requirements for 2014, but is much more demanding in terms of GPU power. DOA5:LR is still a different game, but let's say I have doubts when I read the following in the minimal requirements:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; GeForce 6600 or better, ATI Radeon X1300 or better, Intel GMA X4500 or better&#xA;&#xA;If you still want to go APU only for Sims 3, then it's fine, for Sims 4 I would consider looking at AMD's APU offerings in similar price ranges. They are not very competitive compared to Intel's high performance offerings and their latest desktop CPUs are from 2014, but their iGPUs are said to have significantly more power ([1][5], [2][6]) and the CPU part still manages to run games too.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;# Upgrading CPUs&#xA;&#xA;I think Piotr is wrong when he says:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; That way, in years to come, the i7-6700 processor can be much cheaper, not to mention other processors that will come for this chipset (Cannonlake and Kaby Lake).&#xA;&#xA;I would like to see more facts, preferably in the market where you are/the OP is. My experience here in Europe/Germany is that prices for Intel processors are very stable after the spike at launch and opportunities for a bargain offer are minimal if you want to avoid buying used hardware (from users where you don't know how they treat their hardware).&#xA;&#xA;Also buying *any* board with a Skylake compatible chipset appears more like a bad idea when you look at how many products a chipset family has today and how quickly Intel changed sockets in the last years or which features were missing and were only added to the next generation (no native USB 3.0 for example, and it looks like Skylake and Kaby Lake will have the same thing for 3.1). By now it should be very clear to everyone that Intel is releasing features successively and moving from a tick-tock to a tick-tick-tock model or something different. At any point you will not get the full feature set to be *future-proof* until the next better thing appears on a roadmap. This is pretty disappointing for long time upgrade strategies, but Intel can relax when it comes to selling single processors currently, they have to focus on marketing entire *platforms* (all devices where you don't usually upgrade the CPU) and to be fair platforms have increased in complexity so it's not only ill will that we can't go back to the good old Socket 478 or earlier days.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sims_3&#xA;  [2]: https://www.thesims3.com/game/systemreq&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_HD_and_Iris_Graphics&#xA;  [4]: https://www.thesims.com/faq#what-are-the-PC-minimum-system-requirements&#xA;  [5]: http://www.3dcenter.org/artikel/amd-llano-radeon-hd-6550d-vs-intel-hd-graphics-3000-oc/performance-index &quot;Sorry this is in German.&quot;&#xA;  [6]: http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=amd_kaveri_7850k&amp;num=6 &quot;This is Linux where Intel should have better drivers.&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49298" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1643" RevisionGUID="d63014be-44a9-4c9c-a4e1-4d3712cd6df8" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I just got the Phantom NZXT case ([specs](https://www.nzxt.com/products/phantom-black-green)) for my PC. It works great for me, but this thing is so huge it barely fits in my desk! Now, it *does* fit, but since the 1/8 in audio output and USB ports are on the top, I can't plug in any of the USB ports or my headphones. Since this thing has 5 drive bays on the front, I'd like to get a USB drive bay with a 1/8 in output for my headphones. I can find plenty USB bays on google, but none of them include an headphone port. If I search for &quot;USB bay with aux&quot; I get a bunch of links to amplifiers, which are clearly not what I'm looking for. Does this even exist?&#xA;&#xA;# Requirements&#xA;&#xA; - 5.25&quot;&#xA;&#xA; - At least two USB inputs (but preferably more) and one headphone output.&#xA;&#xA; - The cheaper the better. 20 USD would be ideal, but I could go up to 35.&#xA;&#xA;# Preferences&#xA;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be nice, but 2.0 would work fine also.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49299" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1567" RevisionGUID="d53332e1-5dfd-4557-a058-088b60aa9a4e" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="There is an energy-saving version of the `FX8320`, it just has an E at the End of it's name: `FX8320E`.&#xA;&#xA;A 1200W-PSU is far enough for a 150W-GPU and a 105W-CPU, a smaller one like 650W-730W would also be far enough.&#xA;&#xA;Also I wouldn't mix a AMD-CPU with a nVidia-GPU but nearly everybody says, that this doesn't do anything. The rest is fine. I don't know anythin about Thermaltake though and in my opinion nVidia is overpriced, so I would recommend Radeon on all times but that's my personal opinion.&#xA;&#xA;# EDIT:&#xA;I am using the FX-8320E for 4-5 Months now and I'm very satisfied with it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49300" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1518" RevisionGUID="b0204945-bae3-40a1-abc2-c6824f7eec28" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm having trouble finding an official [Ubuntu Certified](http://www.ubuntu.com/certification/) or Shipped-with-linux computers with shipping to Germany, so I'm going to reccomend the Lenovo Y50-70.&#xA;&#xA;## Lenovo Y50-70 [(Amazon.de)][1] !!C- (52.6%) ##&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**2 potential problems (marked by (~))** Score calculated by number of (+) divided by total possible (+)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA; - Available in Germany, via Amazon.de with free shipping **(+)**&#xA; - Is not Ubuntu certified, but there [have][2] been [multiple][3] people who have [successfully][4] installed [linux][5] on the Y50-70, though exact hardware configurations may vary (Most models used were using the 860M) and the installation was not always without trouble. **(~)**&#xA; - The DOS/256 GB SSD version linked is €949.00 **(++)**&#xA; - It has 8GB of DDR3 SDRAM, potentially upgradable to 16GB in the future **(+)**&#xA; - Weight is 2.4 kg **(+)**&#xA; - Battery is claimed to last 5 hours. This is probably under Windows, so you may need a battery efficent distro and try to limit display brightness and CPU/GPU voltage **(~)**&#xA; - Model has a 15.6&quot; 1080p IPS display **(++)**&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, 1 USB 2.0 **(+)**&#xA; - Intel WiFi cards (Wireless-AC 3160) are generally supported **(+)**&#xA; - [The fans shut off at low load][6] **(+)**&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**10/12** The above section accounts for 60% of the total score&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA; - The GTX 960M has a VGA port **(5)**&#xA; - Keyboard is fairly standard for a gaming notebook this size **(3)**&#xA; - The keyboard is a standard QWERTY layout **(0)**&#xA; - 4 in 1 card reader **(5)**&#xA; - 256 GB SSD **(5)**&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**18/25** The above each has a maximum score out of 5&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA; - [Apparently, it does have a LAN slot][7] **(3)**&#xA; - There might be an external DVD drive for driver installation, but I wouldn't count on it. No internal ODD **(0)**&#xA; - The 1080p version has a matte display **(3)**&#xA; - Nvidia GTX 960M. Mid range, quite speedy, but not a workstation card. 4 GB VRAM and 80 GB/s, competitive with a Quadro M2000M **(2)**&#xA; - Not light enough **(0)**&#xA; - [Someone has reviewed a older version using linux, but it's a rather small addendum][3] **(+)**&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**9/18** The above each has a maximum score out of 3&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA; - 2 USB 3.0, no USB 3.1 **(+)**&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**1/2**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA; - Partially Aluminum **(0.5)**&#xA; - Red backlit keyboard **(+)**&#xA; - Webcam and microphone built in **(+)**&#xA; - Bluetooth **(+)**&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;**3.5/4** Total for section 2: **31.5/49 (64%)**&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U1PP3FQ/ref=twister_B00YXZU29M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xA;  [2]: http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=239&amp;t=202980&#xA;  [3]: http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/lenovo-ideapad-y50-review.html&#xA;  [4]: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/y50-linux-thread.756405/&#xA;  [5]: https://superuser.com/questions/873056/linux-mint-17-1-lenovo-y50-70-installing-getting-gtx860m-to-work-with-nvidia-dr&#xA;  [6]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y50-70-GTX-960M-FHD-Notebook-Review.145896.0.html&#xA;  [7]: http://laptopmedia.com/review/lenovo-y50-gtx-960m-review-the-slimmed-down-powerhouse-got-even-better/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49301" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1470" RevisionGUID="78f07984-1592-49ec-b654-daf8c3c12bd7" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="So after the extended research I found the following evidence:&#xA;&#xA;10 minutes of constant load [test by Toms Hardware][1] :&#xA;&#xA;&#xA; - Asus Strix GeForce GTX 960: **35 dB**&#xA; - EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SSC: **35 dB**&#xA; -  ZOTAC AMP! GeForce GTX 960: **36.5 dB**&#xA; - MSI Gaming 2G GeForce GTX 960: **34 dB**&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;&#xA;And the rest of makes in yet another [Toms Hardware test][2]:&#xA;&#xA; - Asus GTX 960 StriX OC: **35.8 dB**&#xA; - Gainward GTX 960 Phantom OC: **35.9 dB**&#xA; - Galax/KFA GTX 960 EX OC: **36.2 dB**&#xA; - Gigabyte GTX 960 WindForce OC: **35.8 dB**&#xA; - Gigabyte GTX 960 Gaming G1: **34.6 dB**&#xA; - inno3D GTX 960 iChill: **36.4 dB**&#xA; - Palit GTX 960 Super JetStream: **36.6 dB**&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;From the above I conclude, that the quietest card is MSI Gaming 2G GeForce GTX 960 and Gigabyte GTX 960 Gaming G1, because it's hard to compre between tests.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-2g,4194.html&#xA;  [2]: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-11.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49302" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1175" RevisionGUID="00c2165a-5b71-45d8-b5c3-c8a9666eb279" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="To go into some more detail, I am trying to use an electronic drum set as a drum controller for Rock Band 4 on Xbox One. I have the e-kit I am going to use from [this question](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/939/electronic-drum-kit-compatible-with-rock-band-4-on-xbox-one). This kit has both USB and MIDI out so I should have some flexibility in connecting to some kind of adapter.&#xA;&#xA;Is there an adapter or accessory I can use to connect my e-kit to my Xbox One?&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;**Update**:&#xA;&#xA;Snippets from PR and Communications Lead, Nick Chester:  &#xA;http://www.popoptiq.com/last-minute-word-harmonix-rock-band-4/&#xA;&#xA;This is stating how there is no official support for ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; I asked two questions about the ION Rocker drums and the MIDI Pro Adapter and Chester’s response to the first was the expected “not at launch” we’ve been hearing, but when I pointed out that the MIDI adapter works on the PS4, he said “The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.” &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; He did confirm that the lack of wired instrument compatibility on the Xbox One was a hardware issue in Microsoft’s hands&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; As for other things that you’ve probably heard a million times with varying levels of calmness, what about electric drums and ION Rockers? Official word so far has been “not at launch,” but is there any news? Any chance Mad Catz has anything in the works in this area?&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Chester: No changes here in what we’ve said in the past. We need to launch the core game first and make sure that’s rock solid before thinking about these other things.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; From what I’ve seen on the Rock Band sub-Reddit, the Midi Pro Adapter actually works on the PS4 (a Twitch streamer apparently plugged his in and full combo’d “I Bet My Life” with it). Was this intentional or just a happy coincidence from how last-gen instruments work on the console?&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The tech just happens to work. That’s great! Fortunately, the PS4 can detect and work with wired USB peripherals.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Chester: The Xbox One simply doesn’t recognize wired USB controllers or instruments. It’s due to security at the console level and how it recognizes and handles peripherals.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;Here is a workaround someone posted by using a Guitar Hero: World Tour drum brain and connected an e-kit to it and matched the MIDI settings  &#xA;&#xA;Source (very long and ongoing thread): http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5189226/#Comment_5189226&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Basically I removed a working brain off a broken GHWT drum set. Then moved the midi port to inside the casing. So now I can connect it to my Roland Kit and use the following MIDI settings to match the GHWT drums. Rockbound will recognize it as a GHWT kit so it will not support Pro-Drum mode BUT you can still set up your cymbals to trigger the correct color similar to what a lot of people did in rock band 2.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Snare (red): 38  &#xA;&gt; Tom (yellow): 46  &#xA;&gt; Closed HiHat (yellow): 46  &#xA;&gt; Open HiHat (blue): 48  &#xA;&gt; Tom (blue): 48  &#xA;&gt; Ride (blue): 48  &#xA;&gt; Tom (green): 45  &#xA;&gt; Crash (green): 45  &#xA;&gt; Kick (orange): 36  &#xA;&#xA;*I will keep this workaround posted here until someone can implement this and post their answer along with their findings.*&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;**To Sum Up**:&#xA;&#xA;What I am looking for is either some kind of custom made (or official) adapter that can pass the e-kit to the Xbox One directly or a method of using an older RB or GH drum set as a pass-through device (with detailed instructions).&#xA;&#xA;The only **requirement** on top of basic Rock Band drumming functionality is to be compatible with &quot;Pro-Cymbal Mode&quot;.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;**Additional Update**:&#xA;&#xA;Snippet from Harmonix Product Manager, Daniel Sussman:  &#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/the-future-of-rock-band-4/&#xA;&#xA;This is from the company that made Rock Band 4.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; We know there are a bunch of other things that are important that we are actively working on (Xbox One support for ION drums, for example). Stay tuned for more info, when we have details, trust that we’ll share them.&#xA;&#xA;This next quote is showing what is their highest priority as of December 15, 2015. I am speculating the support for ION drums won't be available till after January.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; We hear everyone clamoring for the export entitlements of previous Rock Band games, so we’re bumping their priority to the top of the list. We’re shooting to have these up in the store for the folks who’ve exported their prior games in January. We’re starting with the original Rock Band and then following up with Rock Band 2 and Lego Rock Band.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;**Further Update**:&#xA;&#xA;From Harmonix regarding to their dev plans for Rock Band 4. For the case of this question, look at the plans in the Fall with these two links and the picture below.&#xA;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/online-ions-and-more-a-pax-east-panel-recap/&#xA;&#xA;http://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/may-dlc-artists-double-kick-support-and-battleborn-characters-heading-to-rock-band-4/&#xA;&#xA;[![2016 Roadmap][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/b6GP6.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49303" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1151" RevisionGUID="ed40c5b2-8ccb-4b62-9623-1cb95131fce1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I will first focus on compatability.&#xA;On the Newegg Page for the MOBO:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; 1 x ATX 24-pin power connector&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; 1 x ATX 4-pin 12V CPU power connector&#xA;&#xA;These are standard ATX PSU Connectors that can be found on every ATX-Compatible Power Supply. However, the power supply that you chose is considered not that good in the PC Building Community. At that same price-point ($45), I would recommend the [SeaSonic M12II 520][1] as it is made by a manufacturer with a good reputation and even though it is more expensive, it will be able to put out a full 500W which the Corsair unit would not be able to.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49304" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1036" RevisionGUID="ef288dd4-8dcb-47f6-b7cc-a83a4d7db54a" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I recently needed to start using a third screen on my desktop, and the built-in Intel video will only handle two.&#xA;&#xA;For that purpose, I pulled an old ATI 4350 out of the closet. I barely ever used this card because it was very noisy, so I took the fan off and attached the north bridge heatsink from an old motherboard.  It now runs at ~55°C with a little air flowing over it from a case fan.  I'm curious as to how long it will last that way, but since it supposedly can tolerate 120°C (and in fact reached that when I first put the card in, with no fan and no heatsink) hopefully long enough.  But I'm curious what I could have done without this not-very-ideal option.&#xA;&#xA;I don't need this screen for much -- no 3D, no video playback, mostly just generic GUI content such as viewing documentation.  I have an HD monitor attached, so I do want 1920x1080 resolution, which I think requires ~16 MiB of video memory, since 1920 * 1080 * 3 (bytes/pixel) * 2 (double buffer) / 1048576 ~= 12 MiB, and I'm aware of embedded platforms that will display HD with 16 MiB of video RAM.&#xA;&#xA;I was surprised looking around that there doesn't seem to be anything out there to meet this kind of need; the lowest end cards I could find are still on a par with the 4350 (thankfully, there are more fanless options now) with 1/2 GB of video memory and 3D acceleration, and a $40-50 CND price tag.&#xA;&#xA;One of my concerns about these cards is **power consumption**.  I don't have a watt meter, but the fact that the 4350 idles at 55°C whilst keeping 20g of aluminum very warm too implies it uses an excess of energy for my purposes.  My PSU is fine, I just don't like pointless waste.&#xA;&#xA;Have I missed something?  Is there anything more basic than this around?  Like a **low power**&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; $20 card you can attach a single HD monitor to?&#xA;&#xA;# To clarify further&#xA;&#xA;Andy [has already mentioned][1] a bottom end 3D card.  I'm aware of these, they are cheap and plentiful and there's nothing wrong with them, but I don't need to see a list of more of them here.  I'm looking for something more specialized in the sense that it can't be a purely integrated chipset, since it's for adding a third screen to a mobo that already has this, but totally basic.  I am sure it is possible to make, e.g., a 64 MB PCI card with a GPU that doesn't require any cooling or heatsink at all, and consumes &lt;= 5 watts.  But I suspect no one has bothered to do so.&#xA;&#xA;_______________________&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1. Less than 5 watts would be great; less than 15 is okay.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/1039/813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49305" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="971" RevisionGUID="81fc31c4-a683-416b-8c52-3017036d368f" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking for some headphones. They will be primarily used for making music at home, as well as occasionally being used for live music. They will also be used quite a bit for just general home use. (listening to music, playing games, watching movies, etc.) I have been using a friend's Bose qc-15's for a while, and I only have two major complaints with them.&#xA;&#xA; 1. They don't feel super durable. I wouldn't call them flimsy, but the don't seem super rugged either. I have broken plenty of cheap earbuds in the past, and I want to make sure my next purchase lasts me a long time. There are small children in my house that don't have the same respect for expensive electronics as I do, so the more rugged the better. &#xA;&#xA; 2. Mandatory noise-cancelling. I can't use them without using the noise-cancelling, so the require batteries. I'm on my computer listening to music a lot, so I feel like I'm constantly shoving new batteries into this pair of headphones.&#xA;&#xA;So now I'm looking to get my own pair. &#xA;&#xA;# Requirements&#xA; &#xA; - Over-ear, not earbuds.&#xA;&#xA; - Durable. I don't really even care if they look nice, I just want to know that they will last several years or longer.&#xA;&#xA; - **No** batteries required. Optional use of batteries would also be OK, (For example, optional noise-cancelling) but I don't really care if they're noise cancelling or not.&#xA;&#xA; - Noise reducing, not cancelling.&#xA;&#xA; - This should go without saying, but must support stereo, and have 1/8 in. audio plugin.&#xA;&#xA; - In the 80-120 USD range. &#xA;&#xA;# Preferences&#xA;&#xA; - High-quality sound. I realize that I'm not going to get studio-quality for only $100, but I'd like the highest quality possible while still staying on budget.&#xA;&#xA; - Comfortable.&#xA;&#xA;# Not necessary, but would be nice&#xA;&#xA; - A case.&#xA;&#xA; - Replaceable parts. This goes back to the whole durability thing, because it would be nice to just replace the part that breaks if something were to happen to them. I'm sure that I wouldn't be able to replace all of it, so if it was just the auxiliary cable that was replaceable, that would still be awesome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49306" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="953" RevisionGUID="863e7492-9f7e-4172-9e62-15dc8f126914" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="&gt; I am looking to build a Steam OS box, I would like to run 'light' native Steam OS games and stream the rest from my powerful windows box.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; What are my options for a motherboard that fits the requirements listed and (with a case/CPU/RAM) is *close to* 400 USD?&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;**Valve Min Requirements** ([ref][1])&#xA;&#xA; - **Processor**&#xA;    - Intel or AMD 64-bit capable processor &#xA; - **Hard Drive**&#xA;    - {Support for} 500GB or larger disk&#xA; - **Video Card**&#xA;    - Intel, NVIDIA, or AMD (RADEON 8500 and later if AMD)&#xA; - **Additional**&#xA;    - UEFI boot support, USB port for installation &#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;**My Requirements**&#xA;&#xA; - **Quiet**&#xA;    - Above everything else this box must be whisper quiet. The Box is better if smaller but does not need to be tiny. For the Mobo it's CPU should be able to support a custom cooler that is quiet.&#xA; - **Built in Wifi AC and Gigabit NIC**&#xA;    - I would like to use my existing wi-fi ac for now (even though it works poorly) and later cabled ethernet when I get the time to do reno's. I plan to stream 4k if possible from my windows box.&#xA; - **Built in HDMI 2.0**&#xA;    - As mentioned before I would like to have a 4k TV and even if the steam can not handle fast refresh rate I would like my box to be able to provide the capability. (Display port would also be nice.)&#xA; - **Built in USB 3+**&#xA;    - Having 5+ USB ports (/w 1+ as USB 3) would be helpful&#xA; - **Built in Blue Tooth**&#xA;    - Helpful as I can see a lot of input devices using BT in the future.&#xA; - **Built in Surround Sound**&#xA;    - Surround sound capability, 7.1 with 3.5mm jacks on the mobo preferred.&#xA; - **Ability to upgrade**&#xA;    - SSD M.2 upgradability would be nice&#xA;    - The ability to swap in a decent sized PCIe video card.&#xA;    - The ability to have 16 gigs of RAM&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;**Additional Information**&#xA;&#xA;From what I could find Valve does not have a compatible hardware list but because Steam OS is built on Debian I would rather use hardware that has a good track record of working on Debian if possible. On the flip side I would like to use newer lower power (14nm) hardware if possible as I intend to leave the box running. If all fails I may opt for the [Steam Link][2] and later go for a Steam OS box.&#xA;&#xA;UPDATE: I prefer to build the system and install Steam OS myself. I have modified this question to refer to only the motherboard, once that is chosen I will add a question for what case/CPU/RAM works best with it because they are quite dependent on the motherboard selection.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://store.steampowered.com/steamos/buildyourown&#xA;  [2]: http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49307" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="940" RevisionGUID="caa73af9-b679-42ab-9692-1962cdc7fd64" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="This question might seem weird at first, but I *do* mean it.&#xA;&#xA;__I want to buy a good IPS screen for my laptop.__  &#xA;This is not about price or compatibility, but about **quality**.  &#xA;I want to buy _just screen, **not** the whole laptop_.&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;### Long story short&#xA;In (most) modern laptops, screen is connected to motherboard using **Embedded DisplayPort connector**. **As I understand** (and according to my experience), there are **no vendor-specific variations**, just a few standard variants (namely 20, 30 and 40-pin connectors). It is just a plain DisplayPort interface with cheaper/smaller connector and added pins for backlight and power.&#xA;&#xA;What it means is that as of today, laptop screen compatibility question boils down do &quot;Does it (physically) fit (including connector)?&quot;, which is easily answered for example by looking at photo.&#xA;&#xA;So basically, choosing laptop screen should be almost the same as choosing external monitor.  &#xA;Except one thing.  &#xA;I have seen nothing like *&quot;AUO b156han01.2 IPS panel review&quot;*. **Have you?**&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;### Solution I want&#xA;I basically want a **general** suggestion on how to find LCD panel of specific size, with specific (e.g. 30-pin eDP) connector, that has desired qualities (e.g. brightness of at least 300 cd/m²) and does not have problems like obviously uneven backlight or wrong colors.&#xA;&#xA;The obvious solution &quot;search for laptop and then buy original panel&quot; will not do, same way as searching for preassembled PC with everything included will not do if you only need a monitor.&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;### Edit&#xA;A few days later, I suspect that my question is pointless.  &#xA;There is no such market as &quot;generic screens for laptops&quot;.  &#xA;You often can by a laptop without HDD or RAM, but without display? I guess no.  &#xA;So, chosing a laptop and only buying screen might be the only solution for now.&#xA;&#xA;Let's hope I am wrong.&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;### Edit2&#xA;Now question is closed. I kind of suspected that less general questions are expected :)&#xA;&#xA;Nevertheless, I might have found something:  &#xA;Lenovo Y50 has such a bad screen that very long forum threads appeared that are dedicated to replacing it, and these threads have quite a few useful links.&#xA;&#xA;I currently do not have time to explore these links, but I got a general idea:  &#xA;If you search for display panels in general (including LED matrices, text LCDs with serial interface, industrial displays, etc.), you *will* find some sites that offer laptop panels too and they will have quite some information on these panels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="939" RevisionGUID="fb0d95e8-fd51-421a-8b66-a803cd5c7d61" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I am looking into getting a electronic drum kit that I can use for both recreational use (like an acoustic drum set) and for Rock Band 4, preferably with pro-cymbal support.&#xA;&#xA;I was thinking about getting an ION drum kit, but I have found [this comment](http://forums.harmonixmusic.com/discussion/comment/5154130#Comment_5154130) amongst others in this thread.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Q: I play Rock Band with my ION Drum Kit. Will the ION Drum Kit, as well as other MIDI drum kits, be compatible with Rock Band 4?&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; A: The short answer is “no, not at launch.” Our first priority is to make sure that the core Rock Band legacy instruments be compatible on day one when Rock Band 4 launches – and they will be! If you want to see ION support in Rock Band 4, you can let ION Audio know by contacting them here: http://www.ionaudio.com/support/. We know that many of you play Rock Band using these peripherals, and we are actively working on finding a solution to this compatibility issue.&#xA;&#xA;Is there an alternative to playing an e-kit with Rock Band 4 on Xbox One?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="739" RevisionGUID="4d608294-c0ba-447a-9dba-45786de0687b" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="A few weeks ago I bought a Lenovo [Z50-70][1] laptop (with i7-4510U). I'm very happy with this notebook. It is super fast and has a great graphics card (for how I use it). But there is only a slow 11b/g/n WiFi card, so no 5GHz band.&#xA;&#xA;I found [this specification][2] for the WiFi card:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; One of the following, configurable by model:  &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; • 11 b/g/n, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xA;&gt; • 11 ac,1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card  &#xA;&gt; • Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160, 1x1, Wi-Fi + BT4.0 combo adapter, M.2 Card&#xA;&#xA;Amazon [sells an Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160][3] card.&#xA;&#xA;How do I know if this card fits? Will it be compatible with the antenna of the notebook ?&#xA;&#xA;Could you tell my how to look this up, or if this card will work ? Maybe you have a hint for some other WiFi cards ?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcsupport.lenovo.com/us/en/products/laptops-and-netbooks/lenovo-z-series-laptops/lenovo-z50-70&#xA;  [2]: http://psref.lenovo.com/PSREFUploadFile%5CSys/PDF/Lenovo%20Laptops/Lenovo%20Z50/Lenovo_Z50-70_spec.pdf&#xA;  [3]: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOS19E6?keywords=Intel%20Dual%20Band%20Wireless-AC%2031607&amp;qid=1445501945&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_2&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49310" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="703" RevisionGUID="87726f3b-87cf-4a85-9acc-b3cc93d2d0d2" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I want to create screenshots from games/software running on the [Dreamcast](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreamcast).&#xA;&#xA;I have no idea how that’s even possible. I guess I would have to connect it to my PC somehow? Or are there dedicated devices for something like that available?&#xA;&#xA;* I’m looking for the cheapest way.&#xA;&#xA;* Preferably something that works without having to install it in the PC, because there’s no space left in my case. &#xA;&#xA;  (But if it’s much cheaper that way, I could dig up an old PC with a tower case.)&#xA;&#xA;* Ideally it would not require VGA, because not all games support it.&#xA;&#xA;  (If a VGA-only solution is much cheaper, I can live with not being able to screenshot those few games.)&#xA;&#xA;* In case special software is needed for using the hardware, this software should run on GNU/Linux, and ideally be FLOSS.&#xA;&#xA;* Being able to record videos is a plus, but not required.&#xA;&#xA;* I need this for a PAL Dreamcast, if it matters.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49311" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="675" RevisionGUID="425c8209-e978-42b7-b688-2cce074353b4" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking for a cheap midi controller keyboard. I would primarily use this for playing around with music production through Reason 8. I will also occasionally use it to play synth sounds live through my laptop with Reason.&#xA;&#xA;# Requirements&#xA;&#xA; - Must have a USB output, no sound outputs are necessary.&#xA;&#xA; - Must have at least 49 keys. More would be nice but not necessary.&#xA;&#xA; - Must have a mod wheel and a pitch bend wheel separately. (my current controller has the two combined together, which is obnoxious to say the least)&#xA;&#xA; - Must have reprogrammable faders and knobs.&#xA;&#xA;# Preferences &#xA;&#xA; - USB-powered would be nice, but isn't a must.&#xA;&#xA; - Light, and easy to carry around.&#xA;&#xA; - Button pads would be nice.&#xA; &#xA; - Durable&#xA;&#xA;I have no brand preferences. I would like to spend less money if possible. Ideal price would be under $100, but I could see myself going up to $150 if it was a significant improvement in quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49312" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="653" RevisionGUID="9a8bb03f-3304-44cb-84e4-8b79c7e271bb" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I am looking for a new laptop mostly for programming(work) but also for college and other educational purposes.&#xA;Right now I have a budget of $650, although I am willing to wait, save up, and spend a total of $800 if necessary.&#xA;&#xA;Graphical considerations: I will want to learn OpenGL, DirectX, WebGL, and possibly [Vulkan][1] when it is available.&#xA;I will also be playing some RTSs like 0AD, and RPGs like KOTOR in my free time.&#xA;As I will be attending college, I expect I will need it to play high-quality videos without too much difficulty.&#xA;&#xA;OS cosiderations: I want to try Linux From Scratch in a VM.&#xA;I also want to be able to dual-boot a desktop flavor of linux with windows.&#xA;I would prefer it to come with Windows 8 with as little ODM-provided junk as possible so I can try Windows 10 but downgrade/rollback if I do not approve. I need at least Windows 8 or later to develop so-called &quot;universal&quot; windows apps.&#xA;&#xA;In all, here are some of the requirements I have, in order from most important to least important:&#xA;&#xA; - Durable keyboard (won't fall apart) - I don't want to randomly lose my semicolon key again!&#xA; - Battery good enough to last a possible one-hour bus ride without falling into the critical 20% zone&#xA; - Graphics that supports &quot;OpenGL 4.X and up&quot; (requirement for [Vulkan][2])&#xA; - High-capacity hard drive, at least 1TB&#xA; - wifi&#xA; - SD card reader - bonus for multiple SD card readers&#xA; - all hardware is Linux-compatible and runs as smoothly on Linux as on Windows&#xA; - Bluetooth&#xA; - a trackpoint mouse - I find them more useful than track pads when I am typing something up&#xA; - DVD RW drive for installing any operating system from disc and watching DVDs &#xA; - An option to boot from a live SD card or flash drive&#xA;&#xA;I do not know what CPU would be recommended or how much RAM I will need. I'll leave it up to recommendation.&#xA;I would prefer to be able to upgrade my ram if I find that I am using more than 90% of it on a regular basis.&#xA;Work-arounds for some of these requirements also appreciated.&#xA;&#xA;[1]:https://www.khronos.org/vulkan&#xA;[2]:https://www.khronos.org/assets/uploads/developers/library/overview/vulkan-overview.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49313" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="613" RevisionGUID="63e3678c-ce20-4901-878f-5509146684d8" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="## [HP LaserJet Pro P1102w](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/product-info)&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.imgur.com/G3rDwS6m.png)&#xA;&#xA;Features:&#xA;&#xA; - Drivers compatible with Windows 7, 8, &amp; 10 ([reference](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/document/c04658195))&#xA; - First party and cheap 3rd party compatible toners ([example](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XOXPY8/))&#xA; - Monthly duty cycle: up to 5000, but recommended volume is 250-1000&#xA; - Print speed: up to 19ppm (letter) and 18ppm (A4)&#xA; - Only black print&#xA; - 600dpi&#xA; - Available models with and without wifi (the `w` in the name stands for wifi support)&#xA; - Only manual duplex (i.e. no duplex printing)&#xA; - Cheaper than 150USD. [It is currently listed on Amazon USA for 94.90USD](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036TGGVO/)&#xA;&#xA;[Link to full product details page](http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1100-Printer-series/4110394/model/4110306/document/c01999607/)&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49314" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="350" RevisionGUID="757acc29-463f-48a4-bc76-4df814f54298" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Your criteria are impossible to merge together and here is why, ordered by cost.&#xA;&#xA; 1. You need a 10 year reliable storage that can handle more or less industrial quality requirements. &#xA;&#xA;    This is a quite high requirement. Industrial quality is gained by using better materials/components and so have an higher cost.&#xA;&#xA; 2. You need a technology that is still around 10 years later. This one is also quite difficult to obtain. As you say: you must use only very popular method of archiving witch exclude almost every archiving technology (even tape) because they evolve and, in a 10 year timespan, are not backward compatible.&#xA;&#xA;Those two points come against a cheap method of archiving.&#xA;&#xA;Forgetting your point 3rd here is what I can tell you:&#xA;&#xA; - Tape won't resist time under industrial environment. You need to keep them in a dry zone with a constant regular temperature (it does hates humidity and high temperature variation).&#xA; - Ignoring point 2: DVD is still a good way to keep your 10 year. You just need to buy DVD with a high quality. Be warned: lifetime warranty is considered to be 5 years. So be sure that your DVD is 10 years warranty and burned with a low speed (the higher speed the more you put errors witch, in time, will turn into definitive errors due to the time decay of the DVD).&#xA; - Last but not least: you buy a very specific technology (like Iomega Zip at that time) that is native with Linux. you buy various readers/burners and use only one at a time. Linux compatibility will ensure you 10+ years of support of your drive (not the case under Windows). If your device comes down then you replace it with a new one that you buy and if you can't find it you use the one that you kept.&#xA;&#xA;You must consider to make your backup plan over a 5 years cycle and store your backup media in a stabilized normal environment. &#xA;&#xA;5 years is the longest secured timespan of a device. Over those 5 years you automatically take the risk to loose your backup because you have no more warranty of your device.&#xA;&#xA;That means that, for whatever technology you use: you must redo/convert your backup media every 5 years as your platform changes.&#xA;&#xA;There is also another consideration to take that is almost more important than your storage: Where is the possible target of your restore plan? In a 10 years lifespan many of those devices are dead or evolved making your backup useless or at least make your restore plan a nightmare. That is why 5 years cycles are better because you can make live your data with the infrastructure evolution." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49315" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="333" RevisionGUID="36e39810-2df4-41e0-a852-7f8a2d799b39" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The [Logitech MX Master](https://secure.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-master) has a configurable scroll wheel which you can customize to either click-by-click or autoscroll.&#xA;&#xA;Quote (emphasis mine):&#xA;&#xA;&gt; ## Speed-adaptive scroll wheel&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Scroll through long documents or web pages faster and easier. The precision wheel auto-shifts from click-to-click to hyper-fast scroll.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; ***Logitech Options™ software lets you customize this experience.***&#xA;&#xA; - The scroll wheel is also the middle mouse button&#xA; - Ergonomic form factor that's not specific to gaming&#xA;&#xA;![](https://secure.logitech.com/assets/53166/mx-master.png)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49316" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="264" RevisionGUID="7b6ddb31-455f-42d9-9e5f-5a23ce036029" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="**E-ink is a solution for your #1 and #2.**&#xA;&#xA;Personally, I can recommend Kindle. I've been using my ebook reader for 3 years and it made a big relief for my eyes.&#xA;&#xA;In my case it's Kindle Keyboard but version with touchscreen display is also available on the market:&#xA;&#xA;[Kindle, 6&quot; Glare-Free Touchscreen Display][1] for £59.99&#xA;&#xA;or&#xA;&#xA;[All-New Kindle Paperwhite, 6&quot; with Built-in Light][2] for £109.99&#xA;&#xA;3.  You don't have to care that much about storage because popular formats like epub or mobi are really lightweight. 4 GB makes you able to hold thousands of books.&#xA;&#xA;Battery life (from amazon):&#xA;&#xA;&gt; A single charge lasts up to four weeks, based on half an hour of&#xA;&gt; reading per day with wireless off. Battery life will vary based on&#xA;&gt; wireless usage&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;This description has much in common with reality. **E-ink display consumes power only when the displayed pages change**. This is the main difference in comparison to LCD display.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kindle-Glare-Free-Touchscreen-Display-Wi-Fi/dp/B00KDRUCJY&#xA;  [2]: http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-New-Kindle-Paperwhite-Resolution-Display/dp/B00QJDO0QC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;4. Goodreads integration is possible (Amazon bought this company):&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Goodreads on Kindle lets you connect with the Goodreads community,&#xA;&gt; follow friends and see what they are reading, and share and rate books&#xA;&gt; on your Kindle. You can also shop for Kindle books and purchase&#xA;&gt; selected titles directly within Goodreads. Help for Kindle Voyage (7th&#xA;&gt; Generation), Kindle Paperwhite (7th Generation), Kindle (7th&#xA;&gt; Generation), and Kindle Paperwhite (6th Generation). &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Source: [Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201734030)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49317" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="103" RevisionGUID="e82ac3e0-b5c5-4e05-824e-076cf96d1eae" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="It will be hard to find a stereo camera for &lt; 100USD. Still, you can have a look on [Microsoft Kinect][1] and [Asus Xtion PRO LIVE][2].&#xA;&#xA;There is no such stereo camera with a wireless video transmission in the market however you can make one using IEEE 802.11 transmission bands.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://dev.windows.com/en-us/kinect&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/3D-Sensor/Xtion_PRO_LIVE/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49318" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="97" RevisionGUID="4faac8c8-9d1b-4365-b966-3e3da89e3e3c" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="We develop cost effective hospital information systems for rural India which runs as a web application. To make the overall cost of ownership low, we use Ubuntu as the server and  client OS. To drive the cost further down, I would like to move away from entry level PCs as client devices to thin clients running Ubuntu (or other free Linux variants).&#xA;&#xA;Specification:&#xA;&#xA; - With  popular browser (firefox or chrome) support.&#xA;&#xA; - standard Monitor with minimum 1280 X 720  pixel Resolution&#xA;&#xA; - 3 to 4 USB ports to connect any printer, keyboard, mice&#xA;&#xA; - Supporting latest Ubuntu LTS version (Ubuntu 14.04)&#xA;&#xA; - At least 2 GB RAM&#xA;&#xA; - No separate commercial software requirement. Free/Open Source software like Linux Terminal Server are fine.&#xA;&#xA; - One 10/100/1000 Mbps ethernet port&#xA;&#xA;   What would be options I can look at? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="92" RevisionGUID="cc1bfaa1-1fe7-4aa2-be59-fc96be07e2f6" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="[From Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_cooling#Advantages):&#xA;&#xA;&gt;  The advantages of using water cooling over air cooling include water's higher specific heat capacity, density, and thermal conductivity. This allows water to transmit heat over greater distances with much less volumetric flow and reduced temperature difference.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; For cooling CPU cores in computing equipment, the primary advantage of water cooling is that its tremendously increased ability to transport heat away from source to a secondary cooling surface allows for large, more optimally designed radiators rather than small, inefficient fins mounted directly on the heat source.&#xA;&#xA;So basically it can be beneficial when some of computer components get too hot (overclocking, warm room, etc.), as it is more efficient than  air coolers.&#xA;&#xA;As for noise, see this nice [benchmark](http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4363/17/20-liquid-cooling-sets-group-test-better-than-air-test-results-noise-levels):&#xA;&#xA;&gt; With fans on low speed, liquid coolers are not able to stay as silent as the quietest state-of-the-art air coolers. Some air coolers can maintain 25 dB(A) or less at a 10 centimeter distance, while the most silent water cooler (Corsair H55) creates 31 dB of noise. Only three liquid coolers stay below 35 dB(A) which is virtually inaudible: the H55, the Antec H20 920 (the original version!) and the Corsair H60. The Corsair H100i and H80i don't go below 40 dB(A), which isn't that loud but also not very quiet.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ecS8f.png&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/sWhTP.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="69" RevisionGUID="ac8a1a1b-60f9-4b6a-b482-c70ef29fc175" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="There are more parameters when comparing and choosing CPUs.  &#xA;Also lets not forget that performance depends on what we do.  &#xA;Lets bring list of parameters which can affect performance (sorted by importance, high to low).&#xA;&#xA;**Performance:**&#xA;&#xA; - CPU frequency - how many GHz. The most important parameter. The more, the better.&#xA; - Core/Thread count - (another very important parameter) how many actual cores you have, and how many threads the cores have. For example,  i7 may have 4 cores and 8 threads, whereas Core 2 Duo has only 2 cores and 2 threads. That means you can run 8 (better 4) concurrent program threads on i7, compared to 2 on Core 2 Duo, which results in better  multitasking/multithreading. &#xA; This is the main reason why i7 2.4GHz is more powerful than a 2.5/3GHz Core 2 Duo.&#xA; - IPC - instructions per clock cycle. Another important perameter. Like GHz, the greater, the better. This measurement can often be hard to find, but is very important when comparing processors of the same frequency. (by Firepower0701)&#xA; - Bits - 32-bit, 64-bit. A high-performance application created for 64-bit  CPU may have better performance than 32-bit performance. Also it can limit maximal amount of RAM (depends on OS). For example, old Windows XP could see 4GB RAM when CPU was 32-bit. Today most CPUs are 64-bit and usually you will not feel RAM limit (unless you are running a powerful server).&#xA; - Cache - a very fast but little memory placed near to CPU. Usually improves performance (if we omit cache-miss, but that's another theme)&#xA;&#xA;**Other options to compare:**&#xA;&#xA; - Support of hardware - RAM type/size/frequency, for example, DDR4 2133MHz, 64GB.  &#xA;Another important parameter can be PCI (Express) version and number of lanes (e.g. for connecting SSDs). The higher, the better. &#xA; - Power consumption, [TDP][1] - watts consumed by CPU and produced heat. This is important especially for mobile devices, tablets and notebooks which have battery and don't have good cooling systems. Does not affect performance.&#xA; - Built-in graphics - newer CPUs usually have better graphics than old ones and support more monitors. Of course that's not enough to run new high-performance games but is good for home/office usage and low-end gaming. But built-in graphics is not so important when you already have graphics card.&#xA; - Other features - features like HyperThreading, Turbo Boost, VTx. Some of them may have good impact on performance, others may be useful for specific cases. Most of them don't increase performance on daily usage.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;&#xA;Anyway, you can use benchmarks to test CPUs, or see benchmark results in sites like [FutureMark][2], [PassMark CPU Benchmark][3], or use benchmarks such as [Cadalyst][4] for AutoCAD to determine performance of one software.&#xA;(This is a better way if you don't know much about hardware.)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;&#xA;Note: There are lots of other parameters. If some very important parameter is missing here, feel free to edit and add (by placing low-importance parameter in lower place, higher in higher).&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power&#xA;  [2]: http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/&#xA;  [4]: http://www.cadalyst.com/benchmark-test" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49321" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6104" RevisionGUID="cb68e003-4ffc-408c-8437-d378d8aca11e" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Description of what I am doing&#xA;&#xA;The Fractal Design 804 NODE case supports a total of 10 storage drives. (8 3.5 inch disk drives in one half of the case, which is divided into 2 sections, and 2 solid state drives at various other points inside the case.*)&#xA;&#xA;*Note depending on PSU length etc I think it may be possible to fit more than this, however for my purposes, a 10 drive configuration is what I am aiming for.&#xA;&#xA;My objective is to build a datacenter to backup my data. My aim is to have 8 sata 6GB/s hard disks, all operating in RAID1 as pairs. ie; 4 lots of X terabyte storage units. The reason for this is to run a &quot;rolling-raid&quot; backup.&#xA;&#xA;Explanation:&#xA;&#xA;- One writes backup data to the first RAID 1 pair.&#xA;- The next backup is written to the second RAID 1 pair.&#xA;- Then the third, then the fourth.&#xA;- Since we have run out of storage medium to write to, the next backup is written to the first RAID 1 pair. The old data can either be over-written, or one can create subfolders with the date, and just keep writing until the disk is full.&#xA;- If the disk becomes full, delete older backups.&#xA;&#xA;This seems like a fairly safe, and manual way of creating backup data. RAID 1 protects us against a disk crash, and the rolling raid means if we do something stupid and delete all our data on one physical storage unit then there are 3 other recent backups to minimize damage. (I have done this before when copying data from an external disk to a local disk, and running `rm -r` when forgetting which working directory I am in... Sometimes it just happens when you make a human error.)&#xA;&#xA;Since these are &quot;backups&quot; in the sense that all the data is copied from another location (primary), then even if we wreck the most recent backup then we should be able to recreate it from the primary anyway.&#xA;&#xA;So I have sort of diverged here with this discussion, but hopefully it is now clear what I am trying to do. This could be done with a 3-way rolling raid rather than 4, but I would prefer 4 as it allows flexibility in future configuration.&#xA;&#xA;The final 2 drives are to be used for operating systems. Technically I only need 1, but my guess is motherboards will ship with 10 sata connections not 9. Also 9 would suggest one cannot have RAID 1 configurations.&#xA;&#xA;# Question&#xA;&#xA;The NODE 804 only supports micro-atx motherboards. Are there any micro-atx motherboards which have 10 sata connections? Even better: Are there any micro-atx motherboards with 10 sata 6GB/s connections? Better still, are there any which allow for 4x RAID 1 configurations, where the RAID 1 is composed of 2 physical disks?&#xA;&#xA;If not I guess I can run a software RAID, although this will be slower. Also note that I don't want to install additional RAID 1 expansion cards (pci-e etc) as these may require drivers and I intend to run Linux." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49322" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1704" RevisionGUID="fcb6eb84-aca1-44c1-b798-725fd843f805" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# [Roccat Lua][1] #&#xA;&#xA; - Cost: 20$ on Amazon.com&#xA; - 2000dpi optical Sensor&#xA; - 60 ips maximum speed&#xA; - 20G acceleration       &#xA; - 1000Hz polling rate          &#xA; - 1.8m USB cable&#xA; - No-sweat side grips&#xA; - 2D scroll wheel&#xA;&#xA;I'm actually using this mice and if you are looking for standard 3 button + scroll wheel mouse which is good for gaming, Roccat Lua is really good choice.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.roccat.org/en-US/Products/Gaming-Mice/Lua/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49323" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1760" RevisionGUID="c97103e2-8dbc-4f58-a756-f80a815164bb" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="There's quite a few similar ones but I used [this][1] as a secondary screen for a few years. It got somewhat roughly handled, but if you plan ahead and mount it correctly (and not try to work on it while its plugged in as I did) its a good monitor, which is remarkably good looking. No audio as far as I can tell.&#xA;&#xA;DX tends to ship anywhere and shipping's part of the list price.&#xA;&#xA;SO..&#xA;&#xA;HDMI Port? Check. Also has composite or VGA if needed&#xA;&#xA;Low price? Somewhere around 60 euros &#xA;&#xA;Works with a RPI? Sure&#xA;&#xA;No built in audio though, and its JUST over 10 inches.&#xA;&#xA;There's a lower resolution 7 inch option as well I believe, which would be cheaper, but its something janky like 640x480.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dx.com/p/10-1-digital-ips-screen-1280-x-800-drive-board-for-raspberry-pcduino-cubieboard-black-275804" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49324" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1808" RevisionGUID="598b5ec6-516f-4078-9016-6bbf78c3d6a1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Sounds a lot like the [USB armoury][1] which I found googling for a remarkably similar, older product whose name I still don't remember. The feature list suggests you could emulate a device for communications with the host/&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;    NXP i.MX53 ARM® Cortex™-A8 800Mhz, 512MB DDR3 RAM&#xA;    USB host powered (&lt;500 mA) device with compact form factor (65 x 19 x 6 mm)&#xA;    ARM® TrustZone®, secure boot + storage + RAM&#xA;    microSD card slot&#xA;    5-pin breakout header with GPIOs and UART&#xA;    customizable LED, including secure mode detection&#xA;    excellent native support (Android, Debian, Ubuntu, Arch Linux)&#xA;    USB device emulation (CDC Ethernet, mass storage, HID, etc.)&#xA;    Open Hardware &amp; Software&#xA; &#xA;&#xA;That said, for that price, you could probably get a cheap HDMI display for about half the price instead&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://inversepath.com/usbarmory" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49325" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3862" RevisionGUID="c21fb29b-2a84-4d33-b37a-64111ac019c4" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I want to buy a laptop but I have a limited budget. I will install Ubuntu on it, and I use it for transcoding purposes, such as video editing, blender, audio-video conversion, so I need a CPU with higher single core performance. Many people complains of AMD CPUs for their weaker performance. I am not a game fan except chess but I also want a decent GPU. &#xA;Intel i5 5287u and i5 5257u CPUs has iris 6100 GPUs on CPU chip so they don't have external GPU. I tried to compare iris 6100 vs nvidia 920m but some say iris 6100 is only par with  nvidia 840m, however it appears that  in the following links  iris 6100 is slightly better than even `nvidia gt 920m`.  &#xA; [iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][1]&#xA;&#xA;[iris 6100 vs nvidia gt 920m][2]&#xA;&#xA;I am also interested in bitcoin mining. &#xA;Considering all of these which one would you recommend? You can also suggest your own models.&#xA;&#xA;EDIT: &#xA;&#xA;- bitcoin mining score for GeForce 920M is 39.92 mHash/s&#xA;&#xA;- bitcoin mining score for Core i5 5257U is 54.21 mHash/s&#xA;&#xA;Single core performance for i5 5287U  outgoes even many intel i7 processors.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3163&amp;gid2=2996&amp;compare=geforce-920m-4gb-vs-iris-graphics-6100-mobile&#xA;  [2]: http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3164&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3192" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49326" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5898" RevisionGUID="f2659531-4856-4ae6-ac99-a8680d48733f" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# $36 - Android with USB OTG support and OTG Player App&#xA;&#xA;Get the [iNOVA EX756 Android Tablet for $36](https://smile.amazon.com/iNOVA-EX756-Cortex-A9-MicroSD-800x480/dp/B00U2O3Y02) with the [USB Video Player - OTG Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.usbplayer.videoplayerhd&amp;hl=en) app. Or some other Android tablet or phone with USB OTG support.&#xA;&#xA; - Comes with a USB OTG cable, so you can plug in your flash drive (probably doesn't provide enough power to spin up a hard drive, though).&#xA; - SD slot only goes up to 32 GB, but you said &quot;or USB&quot;&#xA; - USB Video Player - OTG Player will play files directly from the USB device, without copying them to your tablet.  This means you shouldn't be limited by what size filesystems the tablet can access, just what the app can access, since the app [accesses the USB device in raw form](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/43800).&#xA;&#xA;[This How-To Geek article](http://www.howtogeek.com/129800/how-to-use-usb-drives-with-the-nexus-7-and-other-android-devices/) has some more tips on accessing a USB device from Android." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49327" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5508" RevisionGUID="9a9fd312-0575-4c60-950f-c8c1f4307060" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="You're gonna need server-grade PCI-E bandwidth. &#xA;[IBM-ServeRaid-M5110-8-Port-6Gbps-PCI-e-SAS-SATA-RAID-Controller-81Y4481-81Y4482][1]&#xA;&#xA;you'll need to make sure you get some SAS to SATA breakout cables, but these drives offer serious I/O for a decent price. Consumer grade RAID cards usually fail to satisfy your needs because of insufficient PCI-E bandwidth, while modern equivalents will not really be affordable. In my experience the only difficulty is in making sure you get the drivers (but since they are well-supported this is not really an issue after all).&#xA;&#xA;Small note: if you don't have at least one PCI-E 8x 2.0 connection, you're boned. You may also be boned if you have lots of other devices occupying PCI-E slots. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/IBM-81Y4481-Serveraid-Controller-System/dp/B007V8S0HY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49328" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5457" RevisionGUID="c4811808-9849-4483-a436-0a3a1a80e642" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="If you have a local Microcenter I'd encourage you to take a look at the [Dell 7000 series][1]:&#xA;&#xA;There is a model around ~$650 I recently purchased with: &#xA;&#xA; - 360 degree hinged 2-in-1&#xA; - i7 6500u&#xA; - 256gb SSD&#xA; - 8GB Ram&#xA; - 1080p touchscreen&#xA; - Windows 10&#xA;&#xA;I use mine for light programming, a fair bit of RDP to my monster desktop, and couch-user type media/browsing activites. I was between this laptop and an XPS-13. The XPS is much smaller and lighter, and all around sexier, but if I were to get the same specs as the Inspiron in the XPS, I'd have spent $1200 instead of $690 and have been left without the touchscreen or 360-degree hinge. I took the hit to size and weight (fairly significant to be honest, the XPS13 is tiny!) and saved plenty of cash for a still-pretty-sleek powerhouse.&#xA;&#xA;The link I gave goes to a similarly specced 15'' system with a 4k display around $900.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: I just re-read your question and this does not meet a number of your requirements (no VGA/HDMI, numpad)&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.microcenter.com/product/460949/Inspiron_15_7000_Series_156_Laptop_Computer_-_Gray&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49329" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4362" RevisionGUID="c19ea3ae-8b4d-4af1-abcb-5157f829a855" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="OK, to give you a solid understanding of which Yubikey you _need_ you first need to understand what each single one can offer you.&#xA;&#xA;In principle, there are three &quot;levels&quot; of functionality regarding the Yubikeys.&#xA;&#xA;## Level 1: U2F ##&#xA;&#xA;All Yubikeys offer support for the U2F authentication protocol which was originally designed as a secure, anonymous second factor authentication protocol, which is deployed among others with Google, Dropbox and GitHub. Usually (I don't own one, so I can't say 100% for sure), this won't save you from entering any passwords, because it's usually only employed as second defence, especially against phishing attacks.&#xA;&#xA;## Level 2: OpenPGP and FIPS 201 ##&#xA;&#xA;This feature set is offered by the Yubikey Neo and the Yubikey 4. It includes integration into PGP based email encryption and signature services such as GPG and allows you to &quot;enforce&quot; hardware access for email signature / decryption.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Furthermore they implement the FIPS 201 standard, which means you can also use your Yubikey for encryption, authentication and signature - also using the PKCS#11 library OpenSC - possibly even for windows log-in. However chances are that only very few webservices will make use of such certificate based authentication because it brings a lot of other cost with it, and you'd probably still have to authenticate to the token with a PIN or something...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The difference between the Yubikey 4 and the Neo is that the 4 supports stronger crypto algorithms than the Neo (although the Neos are nowhere near broken).&#xA;&#xA;## Level 3: NFC ##&#xA;&#xA;This feature is only offered by the (somewhat dated) Yubikey Neo and thus this is the only one being compatible with phones. So if you need your yubikey on your phone, you _have_ to pick up the Neo.&#xA;&#xA;**TL;DR: If you're not interested in fancy crypto features and don't _need_ NFC the cheapest yubikey will probably serve you best, and if you want hardware-backed email encryption and similar applications the more expensive ones are at least worth a look.**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49330" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4316" RevisionGUID="2ff9afd6-60db-4fe8-bf6f-a1691d77a1fb" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I want to buy a computer (new/unused, ideally off-the-shelf) that &#xA;&#xA;* contains absolutely no proprietary software by default, and&#xA;* can be used without installing proprietary software (it’s fine if non-essential things are not supported).&#xA;&#xA;### Device ###&#xA;&#xA;It doesn’t matter what kind of device it is (desktop, laptop, [tablet](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/301/30 &quot;Tablet that comes with 100% FLOSS&quot;), [smartphone](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/27/30 &quot;Smartphone that ships without pre-installed proprietary software?&quot;), single-board computer, …), as long as the user can plug in **a monitor, a keyboard, and a mouse**.&#xA;&#xA;It should allow to connect to the **Internet** somehow. It does not have to be built-in, as long as there is a supported external device available that also only comes and runs with Free/Libre software only.&#xA;&#xA;**Sound output** would be nice, too, but this could also be an external device (again, if a suitable Free/Libre one is available and supported).&#xA;&#xA;### Operating system ###&#xA;&#xA;I would welcome if it can run a (well known) GNU/Linux or BSD operating system, but I don’t want to require it. &#xA;&#xA;Anyway, it should be a &quot;real&quot; OS, i.e., a system that allows users to update it and to install software; not a single-purpose system (like an [e-book reader](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/1548/30 &quot;E-book reader running only free/libre software&quot;)).&#xA;&#xA;### Use case ###&#xA;&#xA;Browsing the Web, managing files, writing documents, listening to music, using the terminal.&#xA;&#xA;No HD videos, no video/graphic editing, no games, no compilation … nothing that requires much power.&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;### What I found so far ###&#xA;&#xA;* The Free Software Foundation [certified](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom) three laptops ([Libreboot T400](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-t400/), [Libreboot X200](https://minifree.org/product/libreboot-x200/), [Taurinus X200](https://shop.libiquity.com/product/taurinus-x200)).  &#xA;&#xA;  Problem: Not new/unused. They use refurbished laptops (i.e., they bought used laptops that came with proprietary software, replaced parts, flashed the firmware, etc.).&#xA;&#xA;* [Earth-friendly EOMA68 Computing Devices](https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68/micro-desktop) offers single-board computers (and optionally corresponding desktop/laptop housings, whose design gets also published under a libre license). Its Libre Tea Computer Card will likely get FSF’s RYF certification.&#xA;&#xA;  Problem: It’s in crowdfunding currently. Could become a good solution, but only if they will be available for sale after the crowdunding period.&#xA;&#xA;Just to be clear, I do not require [FSF’s *Respects Your Freedom* certification](http://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/endorsement/respects-your-freedom). The difference between their and my requirements is that I’m fine with OS that make the installation of proprietary software easy, as long as the user has the choice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49331" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4124" RevisionGUID="8334ea0e-5d4d-455a-99c3-d7e5e12ea50a" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I built a desktop computer probably about 8 years ago when the first series of i7 processors (i7 920) were released. I pulled this out of my dusty cupboard yesterday where it has sat unused for about 4 years.&#xA;&#xA;I am interested in possibly building a new PC soon, and so I have started researching various components.&#xA;&#xA;I noticed that my current system supports both hyper-threading and triple channel memory. Most of the current intel CPU's seem to fall into one of 2 categories.&#xA;&#xA;- They are either about the same price as I bought my i7 920 for (I think about 250 GDP) and have dual channel memory and often do not have hyper-threading.&#xA;&#xA;- Or they are significantly more expensive and have both hyper-threading and quad channel memory.&#xA;&#xA;I wonder why it is that CPU's are being manufactured without hyper-threading considering that technology has been around for quite some time. (My understanding is this is an intel only patented technology, however.) But this is not my main question.&#xA;&#xA;I want to know how do current intel CPU models perform compared to my i7 920.&#xA;&#xA;My expectation is that even though I have triple channel memory, my memory clock is either 1066 Mhz or 1333 Mhz, and current DDR3 clocks exceed 2 Ghz. DDR4 modules I have seen start at about 2 Ghz. Therefore I expect modern dual channel configurations probably produce about the same memory bandwidth performance if not more.&#xA;&#xA;Current intel CPUs clock about 3.5 Ghz stock, whereas my CPU clocks at 2.66 Ghz stock. Naively higher clock is faster, but does the performance vary with and without hyper-threading?&#xA;&#xA;My question comes down to _should I invest money upgrading my system?_ (Since this is perhaps subjective, what I really want to know is measurements of the performance difference.) And most importantly, are there any benchmark tests which compare older i7's to current i7's?&#xA;&#xA;# Subsequently Added Info&#xA;&#xA;I will be using my system for data processing. Typically this involves a small number of CPU operations on large (~ 6 terrabytes) quantities of data. As a consequence, performance is usually limited by memory bandwidth and disk bandwidth.&#xA;&#xA;Disk bandwidth is typically a problem which you can either deal with in an effective way by changing how your code works (eg; parallelize it so less time is spend loading data from disk), or you can't deal with at all.&#xA;&#xA;Memory bandwidth is subject to a large number of things. In my experience, 3 channel memory will ensure exactly 3 times more bandwidth than an identical system in single channel mode. I would assume intel have reverted to average consumer CPU's being dual channel because most users, even gamers, probably do not run up against memory bottlenecks in the everyday use of their computers. Having &quot;more megahertz&quot; in your RAM is often only useful if your CPU/motherboard combination can run at those higher speeds. For example, the motherboard I am using with the i7 920 has memory speeds of 1066 / 1333 Mhz, and up to 1866 Mhz as &quot;overclock&quot;. But I could never get anywhere near that. 1333 was sometimes a challenge, and the memory I was using was rated 1600 Mhz...&#xA;&#xA;# Appendix&#xA;&#xA;I found some info here which compares intel i7 920 to 6700K and 4790K.&#xA;&#xA;http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-920-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K&#xA;&#xA;But the info on this website makes no sense. They conclude that they recommend the 6700K even though it performs worse in single process and mutli-process tests. I personally do not think this is a reliable source." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49332" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="4116" RevisionGUID="a6bd62b8-5651-44bc-90cb-398cd74ac387" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Get something **newer**. Your card has **192-bit Memory Interface Width**, and a memory bus that slow is **not** going to **handle 3gb's of memory very efficiently**, even with a single card. You would be in a much **better** position with a **single 970 or 980**. While the amount of **VRAM might be greater** with the two 760's, **you won't see better performance** than you would out of a single 970 or 980. And you'll also have to deal with the first four problems I list in this answer [here][1]. Let me quote myself: &#xA;&#xA;&gt; First, you won't have to fuss around with getting **SLI** to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Second, some games **do not even support SLI properly**. Now this may **not happen often**, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know *most* games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there **are some compatibility issues** with certain games...) &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Third, **power consumption**. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Fourth, **resale value**. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. &#xA;&#xA;All of these issues apply directly to your situation as well. Except the power consumption would be **slightly different** for 760's vs 970's; but the same concept applies, you'll be **drawing significantly more power**. &#xA;&#xA;You would also have to **find** a 760 3gb card, which would be tough to get new, so you would be stuck with used or refurb models off of eBay.&#xA;&#xA;So all in all? **Don't go for SLI**, instead of searching for the same card, **save your time**, **put more money up front** and get yourself a **GTX 970 or 980** (go Ti if you can!). &#xA;&#xA;Sources: [GTX 760 3gb Specs][2] | [GTX 970 Specs][3] | [GTX 980 Specs][4]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4058/1x-gtx-1080-or-2x-gtx-970&#xA;  [2]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760-oem/specifications?ClickID=cvlkpk4q4xkikainsvfwfskkaei4zilwwnsn&#xA;  [3]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970/specifications&#xA;  [4]: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49333" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3997" RevisionGUID="5af8b209-2f61-41fa-ab0d-1b7665e3eba6" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="My company is going to buy a work laptop for me (since I've been using my own for a while), and they are going to let me select it. I don't know exactly what my price-range is, since they wouldn't actually give me a hard-limit when I asked. However, they implied that they would be willing to spend somewhere in the range of $1,000 USD. I will probably select some slightly cheaper and some slightly more expensive ones and let them pick between these.&#xA;&#xA;This laptop will primarily be used for firmware and software development and [TwinCAT](https://www.beckhoff.com/english.asp?twincat/default.htm), as well as general day-to-day office stuff. (Excel, word, emails, etc.) Sometimes I will compile very large projects, or have multiple instances of Visual Studio or a similar IDE open at a time (which isn't all that much, given Visual Studio's [system requirements](https://www.visualstudio.com/en-us/downloads/visual-studio-2015-system-requirements-vs.aspx#30)). Beyond that, I don't do anything particularly demanding. I'd like it to boot quickly, so an SSD is a must. &#xA;&#xA;# Requirements&#xA;&#xA; - As I said, an SSD is a must. My current computer has only 220 GB, and I still have plenty of space left, so we'll say atleast 250 GB. Obviously, more would be nice, though it's not necessary.&#xA;&#xA; - A 6th-gen intel quad-core CPU. I'd like an I7 or higher, but I could settle for an I5, provided it was still new, quad-core, and fairly powerful.&#xA;&#xA; - I don't do anything demanding on the GPU, so as long as I can plug an external 1080p monitor into it, that's good enough for me. Bonus points if I can plug a second one in. (Though I might need a docking station at that point)&#xA;&#xA; - I don't need an insane amount of RAM. As long as I can have Visual Studio x2, Google Chrome, Vim, and Spotify open at the same time. So 8 GB would probably be enough. (Although I'm certainly not against having more)&#xA;&#xA; - This probably goes without saying, but it should have an 1/8th inch headphone output and several USB 3 outputs. (I can't imagine any modern laptop *not* having these, but it never hurts to be specific)&#xA;&#xA;# Preferences&#xA;&#xA; - Support for a docking station, if I want to upgrade peripherals down the road.&#xA;&#xA; - I develop for ethernet a lot (EtherCAT, modbus/tcp, dhcp, etc.), so an onboard ethernet cable would be really really nice. I *could* use an adaptor or a docking station, but using onboard ethernet would be a lot more convenient.&#xA;&#xA; - I'm not really a laptop connisuier, so there are a lot of things that I either don't really care about or don't know how to quantifiy. For example, I have no idea what a good-battery life would be. I'd *like* a good battery-life, but I don't commute, or have any reason to need a really good one. I also couldn't tell a good one from a bad one.&#xA;&#xA; - I'm also not super picky when it comes to things like screen size or weight. (Also don't know how to quantify) I don't want something on either extreme (Such as a chromebook or a giant luggable). A 1080p display (or higher if I can get it at this price) would be preferred.&#xA;&#xA; - I will be able to use the laptop on my own time, so a gpu (or integrated graphics) strong enough for *very* light gaming would be nice. I already have a computer that can handle pretty much any game, so this is certainly not a requirement. Good linux support would also be a plus.&#xA;&#xA;# Neutral&#xA;&#xA; - While looking around on my own, I found that lot's of newer laptops in this price range have touchscreens. I am almost completely neutral on a touchscreen. If it could be cheaper without, I'd go with the cheaper one. If they're the same price, I guess I'd go for the touchscreen. I probably wouldn't end up using it very much though.&#xA;&#xA; - I don't really care which version of windows it comes with. It would be nice if it comes with 7 already installed, but if it comes with 8 or 10, I'll just reinstall 7 anyway. (I already have a license and a CD and all that)&#xA;&#xA; - I don't have any strong brand preferences.&#xA;&#xA; - I don't really care about an optical drive (or lack thereof)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49334" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3939" RevisionGUID="a642afd5-19d2-44df-878f-07d7058131df" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The Surface Book actually supports UHS-II from what I have seen. I think the [Lexar Professional 2000x Series UHS-II/U3][1] of SD cards should fit your needs. &#xA;&#xA;For a bit more, you can also get a 128gb from Lexar in the same series. If price is a bit too extravagant for your management, the SanDisk Extreme Pro (UHS-II) is available for a slightly cheaper in a 64gb site, although it is slower. &#xA;&#xA;&gt;*Per a customer review on that amazon page for the Lexar card:*&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; - Lexar Professional 2000x 300MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 296.5 read / 272.6 write&#xA;&gt; - SanDisk Extreme Pro 280MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 274.5 read / 226.9 write&#xA;&gt; - Toshiba Exceria Pro 260MB/s UHS-II 32GB: 260.5 read / 235.6 write&#xA;&#xA;[1]: https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-2000x-UHS-II-Reader/dp/B00OD71FKU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49335" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3916" RevisionGUID="0ff39729-fb9c-45fe-ae90-b28d518ad630" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I recently bought a [Moto X (second gen)][1] Android smartphone. It came with 16 GB inbuilt storage, but no SD card slot. I still have a lot of storage left, but I can imagine myself running out in the future. &#xA;&#xA;I know that Android devices can use micro USB drives as storage. I plan to use a USB drive for long-term storage, if possible. &#xA;&#xA;I have looked on the internet for suitable USB drives, however most of the devices I have found are designed for short term use (i.e. file transfer). None of these are useful since they all protrue *out* of the smartphone where they can be easily damaged in everyday usage.&#xA;&#xA;## Requirements&#xA;&#xA; - Must interface via a micro-USB port&#xA; - Must not protrude out from the device any more than 5(ish) millimeters (i.e. must be suitable for leaving in the device over the long term)&#xA; - Must be at least 8 GB in size (but at least 16 is preferred)&#xA; - Must be compatible with Android Lollipop (this should be any USB device anyway)&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;A USB device similar to what I am looking for, is the [SanDisk Cruzer Fit][2], but it only plugs into standard USB ports.&#xA;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/QOmhl.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;][3]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.motorola.com/us/motomaker?pid=FLEXR2&#xA;  [2]: https://www.sandisk.com/home/usb-flash/cruzer-fit&#xA;  [3]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QOmhl.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49336" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="3869" RevisionGUID="ccbe7067-a8b2-4381-9a0f-bbb33202bef3" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;&#xA;&#xA; &#xA;I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.&#xA;&#xA;**My configuration :**&#xA;&#xA;&gt; CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; RAM : 2x4Gb  DDR3-1866 HyperX Fury, Cas10 &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; One 250Gb SSD&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; One 1Tb HDD&#xA;&#xA;*(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)*&#xA;&#xA;**Requirements &amp; additional info** : &#xA;&#xA;- The motherboard must be ATX format.&#xA;&#xA;- It should be under $110 if possible&#xA;&#xA;- I need it to have USB 3.0 ports&#xA;&#xA;- Socket is 1150&#xA;&#xA;- I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.&#xA;&#xA;- I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).&#xA;&#xA;- There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality&#xA;&#xA;- I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.&#xA;&#xA;- Bonus points if the motherboard is black and yellow or black and white ;)&#xA;&#xA;*As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.*&#xA;&#xA;**Motherboards I consider buying** &#xA;&#xA;Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :&#xA;&#xA;- [MSI Z97 PC Mate][1]&#xA;&#xA;This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit &quot;cheap&quot; (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration&#xA;&#xA;- [Asus Z97-P][2]&#xA;&#xA;I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----------&#xA;&#xA;So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49337" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1990" RevisionGUID="cbdcf89f-ca97-4682-b542-31217b8dda10" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="So I'm looking for a computer to learn game development on, that should cover the following bases:&#xA;&#xA; - Have either a 15.6 or 17.3&quot; screen (not sure which would be better for me, but no less than 15.6&quot;)&#xA; - Have a decent GPU (most likely GTX 960m)&#xA; - Have a decent CPU (prob. 5th/6th gen intel i7, most I looked at had the 6700HQ)&#xA; - Have either 16GB ram or 8GB with the option of upgrading to 16GB&#xA; - Have an IPS panel&#xA; - either good battery life or some way to charge without a wall socket e.g. USB 3.1 with reversible power.&#xA; - not be incredibly expensive (800-1k$)&#xA;&#xA;(I'm willing to compromise on a count or two if it's a better choice overall)&#xA;&#xA;after a lot of searching I actually found a few that covered my bases, except the last one (battery life). since by definition powerful laptops require more power, most of the rigs I looked at didn't have amazing battery time.&#xA;knowing this I looked for ones with USB 3.1-C ports thinking I could charge them via power bank.&#xA;but after settling on the  ASUS GL552VW/GL752VW, I found out that it does NOT support the PD 2.0 standard meaning it's useless for charging and I would be limited to the lackluster ~4hr battery.&#xA;&#xA;So, that being said- here are some of the laptops I've considered so far:&#xA;&#xA; 1. [Dell Inspiron i7559-2512BLK][1]&#xA; 3. [ASUS ROG GL752VW-DH71 (17&quot; version)][3]&#xA;&#xA;Any recommendations or general input would be more than welcome!&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**P.S. - I know a desktop would be better for my purposes, but that's not a relevant option for me at the moment.**&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834298771&amp;cm_re=dell_i7559-_-34-298-771-_-Product&#xA;&#xA;  [3]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834232770&amp;cm_re=Asus_gl752vw-_-34-232-770-_-Product" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5951" RevisionGUID="b146ac46-1b4c-4196-be5f-0ed3c08ec7b2" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Powerline Adapter with PoE Injector (~$60)&#xA;&#xA;### Update 10/19/2017&#xA;A year later, I wholeheartedly recommend a Powerline (aka Homeplug) adapter with POE, rather than a wireless bridge. I still haven't found any wireless bridges with POE out for less than $100, but in the meantime, the handful of [COPS-928-POE](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerline-Ethernet-adapter-with-built-in-POE-for-IP-Cameras-or-Wifi-Hotspot-/251783887138) have been working great. I definitely recommend this option for connecting remote IP phones. This is a decent option for remote security cameras as well.&#xA;&#xA;The idea behind PoE was to make it easy to send power to devices where you had Ethernet (or could easily wire Ethernet), but no power, but if you happen to have power, but no Ethernet at the place where your PoE-powered device needs to go, a POE PSE Powerline adapter is a better option than a wireless bridge. The Powerline adapter sends its signal via the existing electrical wiring in your house, and will generally  encounter less interference than a wireless adapter (unless you have a lot of AC motors running, like vacuum cleaners or heavy machinery).&#xA;&#xA;The TP-Link AV200 Nano has been working great as the other end of the Powerline bridge, by the router. This end of the Powerline bridge doesn't need PoE out, and the AV200 adapter is cheaper than the higher-bandwith AV500 adapters (and later). An IP phone doesn't need much bandwidth, so the ~70 Mbps supported by the AV200 is plenty.&#xA;&#xA;### Original Post:&#xA;&#xA;After several hours of research, I'm feeling pretty confident that a wireless bridge with a built-in 802.3af PoE injector doesn't exist except for [industrial applications](http://www.acksys.fr/en/product/13-wlg-switch/). However, you can get a Powerline ethernet bridge with a built-in POE injector, though they can be a bit harder to find.&#xA;&#xA;Side note: no, I am not getting EoP confused with PoE. There really are devices that can go from EoP to PoE in a single unit.&#xA;&#xA;The lowest-clutter solution to connect the phone to the network and provide PoE is a **Powerline Ethernet Bridge with PoE Injector**, such as the [Comtrend Powergrid 9141s-poe Powerline Network Adapter](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comtrend-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-1-X-Network-rj-45-200-Mbps-Powerline/232086634742) or the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294), available on eBay.&#xA;&#xA;[![COP-Systems COPS-928-POE connects to a Powerline network and outputs PoE in one unit][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;**Low clutter:** the only item close to the phone is Powerline adapter. The phone connects directly to the Powerline adapter, which outputs 802.3af, so no need for a separate PoE injector. The only cable is the Ethernet cable going from the phone to the Powerline adapter. There's not even a power cord, since the device is a wall wart.&#xA;&#xA;This is slightly more clutter than a wireless bridge, because you also need a Powerline adapter near the router that is compatible with the Homeplug AV standard, such as the [TP-Link AV200](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4). But at least the extra clutter is with all your other network equipment clutter, instead of cluttering your desk.&#xA;&#xA;[![Diagram showing ISP &gt; Cable &gt; Modem &gt; Ethernet cable &gt; Powerline adapter &gt; Outlet &gt; Electrical Wiring &gt; Outlet &gt; Powerline adapter with PoE &gt; Ethernet Cable &gt; Phone][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;**Easy setup:** Since this solution is for a home user who will probably need to set it up himself, you want the simplest possible setup. Powerline is plug-and-play: just plug in both adapters and push the button on each one to connect them.&#xA;&#xA;**Better for phones anyway:** Powerline has less packet loss than WiFi, which means better call quality [citation needed].&#xA;&#xA;**UPDATE** (10/24/2016) I tested the [COPS-928-POE](http://www.ebay.com/itm/251925201294) paired with [TP-LINK AV200 Nano](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUIY4). They established a link within seconds after plugging them in. COPS-928-POE powered up my phone right away, and my phone connected to the server a few seconds after the two Powerline adapters established a connection with each other. I hit the security button on both adapters to establish a secure link, and everything reconnected again within 15 seconds. There was no noticeable difference in call quality, compared to my Ethernet connection. Since they are now paired and ready to go, I will be shipping the pair to the home user, confident they will be able to get these set up fairly easily.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/NKZ4r.png&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/10jyx.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2658" RevisionGUID="b1eb9f8e-4925-4b2e-9b0b-ed01636604a7" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="If this requirements which you listed are all what you need I would recommend:&#xA;&#xA;## [MSI H110M Pro-VD][1]&#xA; - [$56 on newegg.com][2]&#xA; - support for i7 processors (LGA 1151)&#xA; - Intel® H110 Chipset &#xA; - M-ATX form factor&#xA; - up to 32 GB RAM support (2 slots, dual channel)&#xA; - USB 3.1 support&#xA;&#xA;If you won't overclock it is all what you need and there is no need to spend more money for better chipset.&#xA;&#xA;There are sometimes problems with compatibility for Ubuntu with:&#xA;&#xA; - Intel GPU on Skylake CPU's - [solution][3]&#xA; - Sound: Realtek® ALC887 (exactly with 5.1 and 7.1 support) - [solution][4]&#xA; - Ethernet: Realtek RTL8111H Gigabit LAN - [solution][5]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-specification&#xA;  [2]: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897&#xA;  [3]: https://askubuntu.com/q/691216&#xA;  [4]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2273289&#xA;  [5]: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1661489" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49340" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2580" RevisionGUID="2962154b-70ac-4725-94bc-da172a82e35d" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="## Functional Requirements&#xA;I need a reasonably portable device that would allow people to use their laptops to connect via WiFi and navigate to a domain name I would tell them. The domain name would serve a web page that would have links to files for download that would be hosted **on and served from** the device.&#xA;&#xA;## Use-Case Requirements&#xA;My use-case is for making 1 hour presentations I would like to run like a mini-workshop so **I expect to have ~25 people connected and downloading, all at the time same time**.&#xA;&#xA;### What is the Specific Use-Case?&#xA;Basically I want give a presentation to people about how to set up an open-source local development environment for WordPress and so I need **people to be able to download the required files** to their computer **at the start of the presentation.**  &#xA;&#xA;### Why These Requirements?&#xA;**WiFi Internet tends to be slow and/or unreliable** at the locations where I will be giving these presentations, and my goal is to get as many people to actually start using this local development environment I built as I possibly can so I want to ensure successful setup for as many people as possible.&#xA;&#xA;## Assumed Technical Requirements&#xA;Obviously the device will need to be a **WiFi access point**, it would need provide a **web server**, **DNS server** and **DHCP server** and the domain name such as `downloads.lan` would only be visible to them when they are connected to the device.&#xA;&#xA;## Non-Requirements&#xA;The device does  **NOT need an upstream connection to the Internet**. All it really needs to do is give them a special purchase WiFi access point to connect to, download files and then disconnect.  &#xA;&#xA;### But Nice-to-Have&#xA;However a nice-to-have would be to have the device connect to an upstream Internet connection using DHCP -- in the case such a connection is available -- then proxy the traffic to the Internet _(except traffic to `downloads.lan`)_, assuming the device could handle lots of connections. But again, that would just be a nice-to-have, not a requirement.&#xA;&#xA;## &quot;Failed&quot; Attempts Thus Far&#xA;So I have tried several things thus far that either did not work or that were far from optimal.&#xA;&#xA;### LibraryBox on TP-Link MR3040&#xA;My first attempt at this was to buy a [TP-Link MR3040](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4/) and install [LibraryBox](http://librarybox.us/) software on it. Unfortunately, it took over 10 minutes to download the necessary files with only 1 computer connected; far too long. So the device **needs to be fast; i.e. have lots of bandwidth.**&#xA;&#xA;### Apple Time Capsule&#xA;I then looked at an [older Apple Time Capsule](http://www.amazon.com/Apple-Capsule-MC343LL-DualBand-VERSION/dp/B002TLTGGM) I have. But it does not support a web server so it would be more technical to access, and it is on the very heavy end of portable.  This may be my fall-back, but I am hoping I can find something better.&#xA;&#xA;### Ubuntu + Hostapd + Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180&#xA;I then tried to set up an old [Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180](http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-IdeaCentre-31102KU-Desktop-Black/dp/B006THJIXI) I had laying around by installing [Ubuntu 16.04 LTS](http://releases.ubuntu.com/16.04/) and Hostapd, but I had a nightmare trying to get everything configured correctly all at once.  &#xA;&#xA;I started with Ubuntu Server but could not get it to connect to my WiFi -- which is necessary to download and install software -- so I switched to Ubuntu Desktop which has a GUI and thus I could get WiFi connected, but **I could still not figure out how to get Hostapd to work**. Evidently it needs to control the WiFi and yet Ubunutu Desktop does not want to let go of the WiFi.  &#xA;&#xA;I feel certain this would work if I could just figure out how to configure everything. I expect maybe I need to buy another WiFi adapter for Hostapd to use like maybe the [TP-LINK TL-WN722N](http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG) but I don't want to go down another dead-end and I am not much more than a beginner as Linux and I may not be able to figure it out on my own.&#xA;&#xA;## Summary&#xA;At this point I am **happy to spend money to solve the problem**. I am happy to buy a different device if you can point me to something that will work. _(I'd even hire someone to build it if the fee was modest!)_ I just want **_something_** that will work and meet my requirements, and not take 20 hours of my time to get working. &#xA;&#xA;**Any suggestions?** &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49341" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2551" RevisionGUID="b6182c8b-0432-4ee2-bb1c-363303ccfe0f" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="## Background&#xA;&#xA;I'm owner of a Mac Pro (late 2013), and I recently bought a BenQ XL2411Z as primary monitor, and my &quot;old&quot; Mac Monitor as secondary one.&#xA;&#xA;I bought also the BenQ because I wanted a better monitor (in terms of fluidity, and response time) for playing.&#xA;So I chose this one for these things: 144Hz refresh rate &amp; 1ms response time.&#xA;&#xA;But there's a problem, I can't select 144Hz because I have the Single Link Adapter, so it works, but it's like the cable was a Single Link.&#xA;&#xA;I saw the Apple Dual Link to DisplayPort Adapter, it seems that chasing a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport is the only solution, but it's like really expensive: $100 for the adapter.&#xA;&#xA;## Requirements&#xA;&#xA;I need a low cost but reliable way to connect my Mac Pro to the BenQ XL2411Z so that it functions at the native resolution and refresh rate. The adapter has to be&#xA;&#xA; - Reasonably priced&#xA; - Support the ports found on the Mac Pro (late 2013) and the BenQ XL2311Z&#xA; - Able to function at the BenQ monitor's native resolution (1920x1080 @ 144Hz)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49342" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2416" RevisionGUID="bd1c5d4d-b3ef-473b-93a3-8ee22d859b12" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I created e-ink display from Kindle DX device. [Steps can be found on the internet][1], but due to their length I'm not going to reproduce them here. The point was to jailbreak Kindle DX, put a VNC viewer there and start a session.&#xA;&#xA;* advantage: used Kindle DX is relatively cheap to buy&#xA;* disadvantage: 9.7&quot; Kindle screen often is too small for use as PC display; display always works in 16 shades mode so there is significant lag&#xA;&#xA;  Still good as a starter device or for testing by someone who is not sure whether e-ink display will help him or not.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][3]&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;My friend just received [Dasung PaperLike](http://dasung.com/) 13.3&quot; e-ink USB display, from Chinese startup, also promoted in their [Indiegogo campaign][4]. Interesting and useful feature are 3 modes of display (16 shades, 5 shades, 2 shades) which differ by screen update speed.&#xA;&#xA;* advantage: first really usable device around; good screen size and sufficient resolution (1600×1200); offers 2-color mode to eliminate problem with lagging&#xA;* disadvantage: price and limited availability (they are currently producing them in batches, you need to send the money and wait for next batch)&#xA;&#xA;13.3&quot; panel seems to be currently the largest available e-ink panel on the market, no one seems to manufacture larger one at the moment (also see this [e-ink form factor limitation Q/A][5])&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][6]][6]              [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][7]&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;Similar 13.3&quot; e-ink monitor is announced by [SOL Computer][8], but details were not disclosed and obviously it is not available for sale yet (**UPDATE 2016-05:** [it seems they are just distributing the above PaperLike monitor (re-branded)][9]). Also they currently offer&#xA;&#xA; * e-ink notebook&#xA; * e-ink tablets (with Windows and Android)&#xA; * e-ink display with controller board (to build into custom devices)&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][10]][10]&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;2016-10-13 update:&#xA;&#xA;These displays are expensive so before buying I borrowed the PaperLike from the friend I mentioned above. And to my surprise I found out that its e-ink panel did not relieve my computer vision issues (although for the friend it did) but it *worsened* it. (White background of e-ink panel was too bright on long run.)  I found out, that in my case, the actual problems are caused by blue light, intense bright image (of any color) and LCD display flickering (especially when display brightness is set low). After research I solved them using BenQ EW2775ZH available at 200€:&#xA;&#xA;* **reducing blue light** – display switched to Low Blue Light Plus mode&#xA;* **reducing brightness** – used low brightness and low contrast levels&#xA;* **eliminating flicker** – the display is designed flicker-free&#xA;&#xA;So for those reaching for e-ink due to vision problems: It is possible that pricy e-ink display won't necessarily solve them. So when trying to mitigate your problems, you might want to check the above 3 points before buying expensive e-ink display. You can try [reducing blue light (initially even without purchasing anything)][11] and you can eliminate screen flicker by keeping panel brightness set at 100% (see [PWM explanation][12] to understand why this helps). For me, [BenQ EW2775ZH][13] eliminated the need of the e-ink display.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;2017-11-15 update:&#xA;&#xA;**PaperLike Pro** e-ink panel 2nd generation of PaperLike. It supports **HDMI** interface.&#xA;&#xA;Manufacturer: Dasung [(see English site)][14]&#xA;&#xA;This can be currently purchased also via SOL Computer, see the Dasung or SOL Computer site.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][15]][15]                [&gt;&gt; youtube search (reality check)][16]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/259582/how_to_use_a_kindle_dx_as_a_pc_display.html&#xA;  [2]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/naStq.png&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kindle%20dx%20monitor&#xA;  [4]: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/paperlike-world-s-first-e-ink-monitor-13-3#/&#xA;  [5]: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/107273/what-factors-are-limiting-form-factor-of-e-ink-displays&#xA;  [6]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/gQ2yk.jpg&#xA;  [7]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike&#xA;  [8]: http://www.solcomputer.com/&#xA;  [9]: http://www.solcomputer.com/sol-cvs-e-ink-monitor.html&#xA;  [10]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/dPPGz.jpg&#xA;  [11]: https://superuser.com/questions/1087420/do-blue-light-filters-actually-reduce-blue-light/1087436#1087436&#xA;  [12]: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm&#xA;  [13]: http://www.benq.com/product/monitor/ew2755zh/features/&#xA;  [14]: http://www.dasungtech.com/&#xA;  [15]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/imDck.png&#xA;  [16]: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dasung%20paperlike%20pro" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49343" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2401" RevisionGUID="7d7cfa9c-509e-441b-9807-336fe0616676" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Alienware would be my recommendation will meet all your specs as standard besides the RAM and touchscreen and will meet the budget as well the last quote i got from them was below your upper limit but that was with a business discount. you also get extras like,&#xA;&#xA; - 1 yr Next business day warranty which you can choose to extend.&#xA; - RGB configurable LED Keyboard. &#xA; - awesome styling.&#xA;&#xA;   Interestingly enough you can also purchase a graphics adapter to add desktop grade graphics, Nice if you need extra power while at a desk.&#xA;&#xA;Can't speak to Linux support i have in the past ran it on dell laptops without much issue.&#xA;&#xA;all these details are available via the below link, &#xA;&#xA;http://www.dell.com/au/p/alienware-17-r3/pd?ref=PD_OC&#xA;&#xA;Alienware 17 inch&#xA;$2,799.001&#xA;Powered by Intel Core i7-6700HQ Processor,&#xA;Windows 10 Home,&#xA;8GB memory, &#xA;GTX 970M, &#xA;Full HD display, &#xA;1TB hard drive.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2309" RevisionGUID="23f9be74-dca3-4c46-a7ed-c5c3b83060a0" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Your requirements don't appear to be very specific:&#xA;&#xA; - What OS (Windows, OS X, Linux, or other);&#xA; - Which platform (PC, Pi, Mobile device, mini PC, MCU);&#xA; - Which processor (Intel, ARM, Atmel);&#xA; - Which size (0.94&quot; up to 14&quot;);&#xA; - What resolution;&#xA; - Which input connectors (VGA, HDMI, DVI, USB)&#xA; - Most importantly - cost&#xA;&#xA;So, I will assume that you are fishing for possible solutions.&#xA;&#xA;There seem to be three simple options, depending on what, and how, you wish to want to achieve your objective:&#xA;&#xA;### Use a mobile device&#xA;&#xA;As you say &#xA;&#xA;&gt; I thought to create an app&#xA;&#xA;assuming that you mean a mobile device (iOS or Andriod) app, then, depending on the actual size of display that you require, you could use a second hand, iPad, which are cheap and readily available on eBay. If an iPad is too big then an old version of an iPod (an iPhone would be over kill, unless you need a 3G connection to your server, which I doubt) would suffice. If the app is for Android, then a facsimile of an iPod/iPad would satisfy your needs, a second hand Galaxy Note or Tab, for example.&#xA;&#xA;### Use a small monitor&#xA;If you mean an _application_, rather than an _app_, for a PC based OS (OS X, Windows, or Linux) then taking your question at face value, the best (i.e., cheapest, smallest monitor), would be one of the monitors supplied by [Lilliput][1], such as the 10&quot; [859GL-80NP/C][2].&#xA;&#xA;For cheapness, you could use an old, vintage, CRT based [Apple Color 12&quot; Monitor][3], which has a resolution of 512 x 384. You would require an adapter, from Apple's monitor connector to VGA, but these are easy enough to find. You may, nowadays, have trouble finding a video card that supports it though.&#xA;&#xA;### Use a Lapdock&#xA;A Motorola LapDock 100 has a small screen, and accepts HDMI, which is fine so long as your PC has a DVI or HDMI output. Granted it also comes with a keyboard, but it would be useful for testing purposes, and could be used in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi - known as a PiDock. A prefect testing ground for your project, assuming that you are using a Pi. If you are indeed planning on using a Pi, then I would suggest the Motorola Atrix LapDock is a better solution than the Lapdock 100 as it has more and better features. Avoid the Lapdock 500, even though it appears on paper to be more fully featured, as it has some odd quirks that make it difficult to use.&#xA;&#xA;To my mind, this is your best option to prove your project, as it would only require a simple set of Python scripts to get it up and running, and should you, thereafter, want to cancel/scrap the project, you can use the Raspberry Pi and Lapdock for some other purpose, and hence save money.&#xA;&#xA;### Build a custom solution&#xA;&#xA;If you only need to display five numeric characters then a monitor seems to be overkill, for both a cost and energy efficiency aspect.  Much less power hungry, and arguably more of an interesting project would be to create a custom solution, using an Arduino and a Wireless or Ethernet shield (with the appropriate sketch to query the server) and an LED display, be that a [0.94&quot; OLED][4], or a set of five [6.5&quot; seven segment displays][5], or anything in between (again depending upon your size requirements).&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;If you can hammer down your requirements to be more specific, I can edit my answer accordingly.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/&#xA;  [2]: http://www.lilliputuk.com/monitors/vga/859gl/&#xA;  [3]: http://lowendmac.com/displays/mac-12-inch-rgb-display.html&#xA;  [4]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuSkmG-n8fA&#xA;  [5]: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49345" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2270" RevisionGUID="a96a444a-76fe-4282-a634-4c1e5e89f297" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="&gt; Does it make sense to store relatively large sample libraries in a remote location?&#xA;&#xA;It makes sense, but it's not at all beneficial. If you're going to be pulling samples into your project fairly often, you'll be much better off storing them locally so you only have to depend on drive connection transfer rates.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Would it be smarter to get a network switch to enable double LAN ports?&#xA;&#xA;Like you said, this wouldn't matter at all if your computer is bottlenecking the network connection with one LAN port.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; What's most future-proof solution given that I may upgrade my computer to USB-C and/or Thunderbolt 3 within 1-2 years?&#xA;&#xA;The two options you're choosing from aren't desirable if you're focusing on future-proofing. Both will become completely outdated in 1-2 years because of the USB 2 and HDD technologies.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;&gt; External SSD with USB 2 or external HDD with Thunderbolt 1?&#xA;&#xA;### Transfer rate&#xA;&#xA;Taking into account the other questions, an HDD with Thunderbolt will do you well because you could connect several of these to a Thunderbolt hub and have little to no bottlenecking. Thunderbolt is rated at 1250MB/s per channel (but usually hits around 500MB/s) while HDD read speeds average around 120MB/s. This allows for a lot of room to expand your storage options later on. With an SSD-USB 2 setup, you have a connection speed of 60MB/s bottlenecking an average read speed of &gt;400MB/s... Not too great.&#xA;&#xA;### Cost&#xA;&#xA;Since you're looking for at least 0.5-1TB of storage space, choosing the SSD route will skyrocket the price very easily. A 1TB SSD will instantly put you over budget while a 1TB HDD won't even put you over half your budget. Also, since you're considering the future, it's better to spend less so you can potentially upgrade to a newer technology later on. You might find a good deal on an SSD with Thunderbolt for example.&#xA;&#xA;### Availability&#xA;&#xA;Both options are fairly uncommon because USB 2 is being quickly phased out as a drive connection type and Thunderbolt on a hard drive is a mix of very old and very new technologies. Don't expect a small price tag on anything amazing.&#xA;&#xA;### Recommendation&#xA;&#xA;[G-Technology G-DRIVE Mobile 1TB 7200RPM 1xThunderbolt/1xUSB 3.0][1] (USD $190)&#xA;&#xA;- Enough space for large sample libraries&#xA;- Easy to move around and manage&#xA;- Comes with Thunderbolt and USB cables&#xA;- Transfer rate: up to 136MB/s&#xA;&#xA;A quality solution overall. But, again, you don't have too many options here given your price constraint. There are better products out there that sit outside your budget.&#xA;&#xA;[1]:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822205209" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49346" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2262" RevisionGUID="943bc57d-9831-4ef4-8b10-54d41a29744c" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Have you considered biometric USB drives, such as the Imation Defender F200 Biometric, it may be a little slow, but supports passwords, fingerprint scanning, or both. There is a review of it: [Imation Defender F200 Biometric Flash Drive Review: Secure but Slow][1].&#xA;&#xA;Or there is the Iron Key Personal D200, which does not specifically have a password enabled write protect, but it is pretty damn secure, nevertheless. Here is a, somewhat out of date, review: [IronKey Personal D200][2].&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;As an aside, have you seen [George Bailey][3]'s [answer][4] to [Is there such thing as a password enforced write protected flash drive?][5]:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; (The write protect switch on the model drive I have used is discrete like a reset button, you need to stick a pen or something into the slot in order to reach the switch and flip it)&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; The best solution I have so far - that still satisfies the requirement that no malicious files be downloaded by the user - is to get a flash drive that has a physical write protect switch, and apply a coating that will harden. (similar coats are on the market for covering tool handles, such as wrenches)&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; If the hacker has physical access, I see this setup as having 2 possible outcomes&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;  - the tamper would be evident to the user (broken seal), or&#xA;&gt;  - after tamper is complete, a new coat of similar color would have to be applied by the hacker.&#xA;&#xA;Again while not password protected, it does get around the issue that you mention in your comment *hardware switch is not good because everybody could turn it on or off*.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.pcworld.com/article/254757/imation_defender_f200_biometric_flash_drive_review_secure_but_slow.html&#xA;  [2]: http://secure-usb-drive-review.toptenreviews.com/ironkey-personal-d200-review.html&#xA;  [3]: https://security.stackexchange.com/users/764/george-bailey&#xA;  [4]: https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive#answer-15635&#xA;  [5]: https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/15219/is-there-such-thing-as-a-password-enforced-write-protected-flash-drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49347" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2244" RevisionGUID="416d854e-63f0-445a-89a7-cdc5d1f25473" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I find this one fits most of your requirements.&#xA;&#xA;[AT&amp;T GoPhone - ZTE Zmax 2 4G with 16GB Memory No-Contract Cell Phone - Black ($99.99 + free shipping @ best buy)][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;## 1.2GHz processor with 2GB of RAM&#xA;(Snapdragon 410, 4 x A53 @ 1.2 GHz)&#xA;&#xA;Delivers outstanding overall performance for opening and running applications, flipping through menus, running home screens and more.&#xA;## Android 5.1 Lollipop OS&#xA;New colors and typography, new ways to control when and how you receive messages, and new security features, including Android Smart Lock, which secures your phone by pairing it with a trusted smartwatch or other device.&#xA;## 5.5&quot; touch-screen display&#xA;(720p LCD)&#xA;&#xA;Large screen makes it easy to navigate pages and watch videos.&#xA;## 8.0MP rear-facing camera&#xA;Snap photos of memorable moments while you're on the go. Also includes a 2.0MP front-facing camera for video chatting and taking selfies.&#xA;## 16GB internal memory&#xA;Offers plenty of storage space for music, photos, contacts and more.&#xA;## Use your smartphone as a mobile hotspot&#xA;Share your 4G data connection with other compatible wireless devices&#xA;&#xA;## SD card&#xA;microSD, up to 64 GB&#xA;&#xA;[More specs at GSMArena][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/at-t-gophone-zte-zmax-2-4g-with-16gb-memory-no-contract-cell-phone-black/4421800.p?id=1219745390060&amp;skuId=4421800&#xA;  [2]: http://www.gsmarena.com/zte_zmax_2-7572.php" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2108" RevisionGUID="c7e76c4b-a375-4e68-94fd-54ec25a79dcb" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I've always used full sized keyboards, with high profile keys. (I'm a developer)&#xA;I think it's time to make some changes. &#xA;&#xA;Today I went to a big computer shop. Tried out many keyboards. Mainly from Logitech and Microsoft. I even tried some  gaming keyboards, but I was very disappointed with how they all felt. Except one! The Logitech K740. This keyboard really stood out. It has very low profiles keys, right spacing between the keys, big keys, a little bend/curving in the keys like on traditional keyboards and illuminated keys. It just felt right. By the way is was also the best looking keyboard of all off them.&#xA;&#xA;Only one problem it was not wireless. Something I'm really want right now. Ideally with Bluetooth support. Even beter, multiple channels like the Logitech MX Master mouse would be great. I want to invest in one keyboard that works on my desktop computer but also on other (mobile) devices.&#xA;&#xA;To summaries, I'm looking for a modern, good looking wireless keyboard, that has a good quality feeling. So far hard to find.&#xA;&#xA;[![Logitech keybord K740][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://i.stack.imgur.com/13JWr.jpg &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49349" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2100" RevisionGUID="cf7bbc6d-ee2d-49cf-8723-b8398e9d2587" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="A [nisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_instruction_set_computing) is an evolution of risc where the cpu has no instruction set nor microcode.  &#xA;Programs are written in nanocode with direct access to internal cpu components pins.&#xA;&#xA;Such programs resemble more to hardware description languages like verilog, and compiling a C program for that kind of cpu [requires special techniques](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_to_HDL &quot;it involves converting computer program code into the hardware description language of the cpu&quot;) *(but such cpu still carry out instructions)*.  &#xA;The main idea is the place used by traditional cpu control units are left for using more other components providing more performance or less electrical power consumption.&#xA;&#xA;When I tried to search for an implementation, I only saw academic papers or lessons mainly teaching how cpu works. Except a [patent about the ɴɪꜱᴄ idea](http://www.google.com/patents/US20050097306) but which is held by an individual *(not a company)*.&#xA; &#xA;By commercial, I mean used in an end‑user device *(such as a desktop computer or an infrared remote control)* or used in a performance oriented server.  &#xA;If such implementation exists, it’s datasheet would be a bonus.&#xA;&#xA;# Update :&#xA;&#xA;This question isn’t too broad as it’s obvious such cpu would be a commercial catastrophe *(perhaps with few exceptions which is the aim of that question)*.  &#xA;&#xA;**[So it’s very unlikely such device exists](https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/q/436/1808).**&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2065" RevisionGUID="6ee20532-535b-4e19-a7b2-ab62fdc4a707" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="My work computer is very slow, and so I am looking to upgrade some of the parts. I have the intel i5-4440 that I'm going to put in it, but this CPU is not compatible with my current motherboard. &#xA;&#xA;Here's the slightly esoteric requirement: I work with programming [EtherCAT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EtherCAT) boards over an Ethernet port, and I also like to use Ethernet for my internet connection. Unfortunately, my current motherboard only has one Ethernet port, and no wifi card. This means I will frequently switch out my Ethernet cord from the router to the board I'm working on, and it's very annoying to have to pick between an internet connection and talking to the board I'm working on. (I suppose a better solution would be to buy a wifi card, but I'd like to keep the Ethernet connection if I can)&#xA;&#xA;# Requirements&#xA;&#xA; - Compatible with the i5 4440 CPU, DDR3 RAM and the GTX 610 GPU.&#xA;&#xA; - At least 4 USB ports. &#xA;&#xA; - Micro ATX&#xA;&#xA; - Relatively cheap. I'm thinking around 70 USD.&#xA;&#xA;# Preferences&#xA;&#xA; - USB 3.0 would be awesome, but I could settle for 2.0 if I had to.&#xA;&#xA;I don't have any strong brand or appearance preferences. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49351" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2041" RevisionGUID="e8b8ecf4-6968-4431-bea6-c55107099657" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Reason&#xA;I wanted to wait for buying this hardware upgrade. However, the motherboard of my computer stopped to work this morning, so the need become more urgent *(I'm writing this with my tablet)*.&#xA;# Rules&#xA;* The motherboard need to be atx compatible. It should feature at least 1 pcie x16 slot and at least a mini pci one.&#xA;* I don't care about core or Xeon. The whole price should be below 700€.&#xA;* The cpu should be at least a quad core one.&#xA;* The motherboard need to support hardware or fake raid 1.&#xA;* The delivery should be possible in France. *(many intel cpu models are not sold here)*&#xA;* Should not consume more than 250W.&#xA;&#xA;# Update&#xA;I need to say for those gpu models that the available cpu sockets are [bga only](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array) *(no lga based models availaible yet)*. Except if I'm wrong.&#xA;&#xA;So it means while I'm looking for a particular gpu model, the cpu+gpu+motherboard is sold as a single device which can't be ordered into separate parts *(the same way you don't buy a northbridge chipset without a motherboard)*.  &#xA;This why I specify the requirements of both the cpu and the motherboard." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49352" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2640" RevisionGUID="78456aa5-adcb-4930-9722-eaf02667d013" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Not really 'current' hardware but [hothardware tested this roughly 3 generations ago][1] (and that's pci-e 3.0 era hardware I believe) on a *core 2 duo*. And the results were pretty darned dramatic. Graphics performance was roughly 50% better. And well, modern cards *still* do not typically saturate a PCIe 2.0 connection, especially on the mid range. Consider this. PCIe 3.0 is about twice as fast as PCIe 2.0, and you'd be using your cards at x8 in SLI, so clearly, x8 speeds on PCIe 3.0 (aka x16 speeds in PCIe 2.0) should be enough. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Yeah, you can wait for the next generation but a 960 actually feels like a compelling upgrade if you *need* to upgrade *now*. You can always use it as a dedicated phyx card should you choose to get a pascal, and well, in addition to the wait, we don't actually know if the next gen pascal and polaris chips actually live up to the hype. Nonetheless if you choose to wait, those cards ought to drop in and work as well as long as they're PCIe.&#xA;&#xA;I don't think the performance drop would be *that* bad, and in a scenario where you're gradually building up a system, this would make a ton of sense. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://hothardware.com/reviews/gpu-redux-can-old-dualcores-drive-a-modern-graphics-card?page=5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49353" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10866" RevisionGUID="e377b5d3-26f3-4606-8768-eba857133247" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I am working on Dell Optiplex 755 Mini Tower (MT). I have upgraded it to Core 2 Quad Q6700 and 8 GB memory. The base board is Dell 0GM819. Tech Specs are **[here][1]** on page 5. The PCI Express x16 connector (SLOT1) is occupied by my NVIDIA GeForce GT 710. But it looks like I have PCI Express x1 connector (SLOT4) and two PCI connector (SLOT2 and 3) unused.&#xA;&#xA;Which kind of SSD (M.2/PICe etc. as well as the brand name) should I buy and where should I put it?&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;As a last resort, I could put a 2.5&quot; SATA SSD in a caddy but not sure if there are any other better options available.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/opti_755_techspecs.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49354" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8117" RevisionGUID="3a9098cb-b9a7-4dc3-b5ea-a55f0ae3f9fd" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking for a smart phone.&#xA;&#xA;## Requirements&#xA;&#xA;- unlockable bootloader, excluding the method described as 'bad' below.&#xA;- compatible with micro SD card&#xA;- compatible with LineageOS or Replicant (modem works, wifi works, camera works, etc)&#xA;- multi-touch with at least five pointers&#xA;- use SIM card&#xA;- compatible with Cricket Wireless (AT&amp;T's network)&#xA;- for use in USA&#xA;- &lt;s&gt;$0-$200, hard limit&lt;/s&gt; Any price?!  I want the cheapest one. :)&#xA;- Used is OK&#xA;&#xA;--------------&#xA;&#xA;### What *legally/easily unlockable bootloader* means...&#xA;&#xA;If you want to put your own OS (that you built) on a smart phone, you need to have an unlocked bootloader.  There are different ways to get there.  I think some of those methods are good and some are bad.&#xA;&#xA;- **BAD** Download some kind of executable from a forum and run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xA;- **OKAY** Download the source code for a program, inspect it and build it yourself, then run it on your PC or smartphone.  The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.&#xA;- **GOOD** The manufacturer offers a free (gratis) service for power users that allows them to unlock the bootloader in their device.  Registration is required.  Note: LG for example has this service, but *only for some models of their devices*.&#xA;- **BETTER** The manufacturer offers a program that can unlock your device.  Registration isn't required.  *I think this is how it works for some devices, but I'm not sure.*&#xA;- **BEST** The device ships with an unlocked bootloader or unlocking can be performed with off-the-shelf software such as the `Android SDK`. *I heard this is how it works for some devices, but I don't know which ones.*&#xA;&#xA;--------------&#xA;Note, this question is similar to this other [question from 2016](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/7006).  It's a great question with great answers, but there are new devices now..." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49355" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8044" RevisionGUID="290094f9-fd32-451d-8233-f71a4945fc59" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Just having metal won't necessarily make your laptop more durable (It depends more on construction and some laptop manufacturers put a metal coating over plastic), but if you want to maximize your durability you could consider something like a [toughbook][1] (which is constructed with a magnesium metal alloy).&#xA;&#xA;They are usually around the $1000 price range and have pretty good specs as well. As it happens there is one on sale at [Newegg for $500][2] (**MSRP $3,800**). It hits all the sweet spots in your requirements too.&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xA;&#xA;It features a **Intel Core i5-3320M**, so the cpu isn't exactly breaking records, however; it has **8gb of DDR3 RAM** as well as a bonus of **128gb SSD** (which in my experience makes even underpowered cpu computers quite snappy). It comes with Windows 7 Pro, but you can always buy Windows 10 for it, if you want the latest and greatest from Windows 10 (small optimizations, windows apps, cortana search).&#xA;&#xA;These things are supposed to be **REALLY** tough, and I believe that the US military uses these types of laptops in the field. You'll have a tough time breaking one of these with daily use.&#xA;&#xA;In addition, the [official sales website][4] claims:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; In addition, a 6-foot drop &amp; IP65 certified design with a full magnesium alloy case, helps to ensure that the Toughbook 19 will stand up to the most rigorous environments.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Tested by national independent third party lab following MIL-STD-810G Method 516.6 Procedure IV for transit drop test and IEC 60529 Sections 13.4, 13.6.2, 14.2.5 and 14.3 for IP65&#xA;&#xA;It also claims to come with a gratuitous battery life of **10 hours**.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://business.panasonic.com/toughbook/laptop-computers.html&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABYS5K33365&amp;cm_re=toughbook-_-9SIABYS5K33365-_-Product&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1egI.jpg&#xA;  [4]: http://business.panasonic.com/toughbook/fully-rugged-laptop-toughbook-19.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49356" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7846" RevisionGUID="d017bfa6-b67a-41b8-925d-12843dc9c5c5" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I bought the Plantronics GameCom 788 as my first headset and every other headset I've tried after just felt and sounded terrible. It's the best audio-related purchase I ever made besides my studio monitors.&#xA;&#xA;I can never go back to any other headset.&#xA;&#xA;The sound quality is great, and the microphone quality is honestly astounding. I have a broadcast quality microphone and there is almost zero noticeable difference between them.&#xA;&#xA;Also, the Dolby drivers that come with it just make everything sound so much better. I can't deal with it being off any more.&#xA;&#xA;And just so you know, the GameCom 780 and 788 are the exact same. The only difference is design. I have owned both.&#xA;&#xA;### Technical Details:&#xA;&#xA; - Connects via USB cable (works with consoles too)&#xA; - Open cups give a larger sound stage&#xA; - Not sure what the ear and headband padding is made of but it's breathable and comfortable.&#xA; - Very reasonable cost of between £30-50 GBP considering the quality&#xA; - Licensed Dolby 7.1 surround sound tech that I don't understand but everything sounds way better with the option turned on&#xA;&#xA;[Official Product Page](http://www.plantronics.com/uk/product/gamecom-788)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49357" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7841" RevisionGUID="9a6dbfce-ff39-49fb-8340-a500d266fa2d" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking at getting a third monitor for my PC. I have an R9 380 and i'm currently using both DVI outputs. According to the AMD EyeFinity FAQ:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;1: The first two monitors can connect to the graphics card with any display output on your product: HDMI, VGA, DVI or DisplayPort.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;2:The third (or greater) display must be connected to the graphics card via DisplayPort.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;3: If your monitor does not have a DisplayPort connection, **you will need an inexpensive active DisplayPort adapter** for it. DVI to DP adapters can be had for less than $30 USD.&#xA;Every family of GPUs supports a different maximum number of displays.&#xA;&#xA;The monitor I have chosen has DVI input, and I have been given a DP to DVI adapter, but I don't know if it's active or passive. The reason this matters is because i've read that EyeFinity will only support it if it is using an active adapter, and then something about having only two streams??&#xA;&#xA;**The adapter i have is Dell 0KKMYD** and i can't find out anywhere whether it's active or passive. I can't see anything on the adapter itself without opening the packet and I don't want to do that just yet in case I have to return it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49358" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7827" RevisionGUID="fc2d40c8-9d63-46d4-8fa5-537d69940140" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Now for the more traditional approach: You want a CPU-heavy _actual_ laptop with a decent amount of fast storage and quite a bit of RAM. So the obvious solution is to look for the beefiest CPU that can be crammed into a laptop and go from there. Normally people would just look for laptop CPUs here, but because Gamers being Gamers, _there are laptops that use Desktop CPUs_ which of course are much better performance-wise due to higher peak clocks (but of course cooling and power consumption tend to make such laptops hot, loud and with short battery lifetime).&#xA;&#xA;So my recommendation will be:&#xA;&#xA;## [The Origin PC EON17-X][1]&#xA;&#xA;Which features (up to)&#xA;&#xA; - An Intel Core i7-7700K (Codename: Kaby Lake), with 4 physical cores and remarkably high clock rates (meaning these cores will be _very_ fast and much faster individually [than the Xeon cores from my other answer][2]) and notably, this is a desktop CPU, so you should a) be able to actually overclock it if you so want and b) it is allowed to produce much more heat and thus stay at higher clocks for longer.&#xA; - 64 GB of (non-ECC) RAM &#xA; - If I'm parsing the configuration page right, up to _four_ 2TB Samsung Pro SSDs (2x M.2 and 2x SATA), [comments from my other answer apply.][2]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.originpc.com/gaming/laptops/eon17-x/&#xA;  [2]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7826/273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49359" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7826" RevisionGUID="de743311-b713-4b93-9a8d-ee3af324d9a3" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="First, I'll post the solution which may not directly fit your needs, but could at least be worth a consideration and will probably deliver significantly higher performance, however&#xA;you'll essentially be getting a highly portable desktop PC, so you need:&#xA;&#xA; - A monitor wherever you go&#xA; - A mouse&#xA; - A keyboard&#xA;&#xA;If you are actually in a situation where you can have these (easily?) available where you go (and note that there are modern variants of all of these designed for high mobility), I can recommend (even though I did not actually test / own one):&#xA;&#xA;## [The Titan X179 Workstation][1]&#xA;&#xA;Why does it fit your needs?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;**Because it runs workstation / server-grade equipment in a very compact case!**&#xA;&#xA;Up to:&#xA;&#xA; - Just about any [Intel Xeon E5 v4][2] (Codename: Broadwell-EP), [up to 22 physical cores][3], will just about blow everything else mobile out of the window (you may want to know that the Xeon is fastering than everything else because of _parallelism_, the actual cores have quite a low base-clock and architecturally are also 2 generations behind as of now, which amounts to a few per cent performance difference)&#xA; - 16, 32, 64 or 128 GB [Error-Checking and Correcting Memory][4] (a Xeon-only feature that you may not need)&#xA; - Up to 6TB of Samsung Pro-branded SSD storage (2x SATA, 1x M.2), also note that the M.2 SSD has a [1.2PBW / 5yr warranty policy][5] (that is they guarantee that it will work for 5 years or 1.2 _Peta_-bytes written, whichever happens first) and the SATA SSD has a at least a [300TBW / 10yr warranty policy][6].&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.titancomputers.com/Titan-X179-Intel-Xeon-E5-V4-Broadwell-EP-Ultra-p/x179.htm&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/series/91287/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-v4-Family&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/91317/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2699-v4-55M-Cache-2_20-GHz&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory&#xA;  [5]: http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-pro-m-2-2tb-mz-v6p2t0bw/&#xA;  [6]: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/warranty/MZ-7KE2T0BW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49360" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7707" RevisionGUID="9af1fc8f-a0c3-41d2-883b-dbe1db16ae62" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="If all you do is YouTube/Netflix streaming, you could use an [Xbox One S][1]&#xA;&#xA;(Note: since you said possibly *building*, I'm going to assume that this is small enough for you)&#xA;&#xA;# Pros&#xA; - More powerful CPU (than compute stick)&#xA; - 500GB Storage (or 1TB depending on model) vs. 32GB&#xA; - Quick and easy setup&#xA; - [Supports 4K][2]&#xA; - You can play games &#xA; - Blu-ray reader&#xA;&#xA;# Cons&#xA;&#xA;- It's big&#xA;- **It doesn't run Windows** (Possibly a reason to not consider this, depending on what you plan on using your 'micro-pc' for.)&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-500GB-Console-Horizon/dp/B01NBWF2JE/&#xA;  [2]: http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49361" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="7258" RevisionGUID="adf0d9b6-b436-4601-8523-87b74a58b84a" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking for a smartwatch, that can record and playback audio, without a phone, as I don't have one.&#xA;&#xA;### I'd also prefer that it&#xA;- have an app store, development kit available, e.g. ios, android wear, or tizen make sense&#xA;- &lt; $200&#xA;- vibration support&#xA;- speaker&#xA;- microphone&#xA;&#xA;I find so many of these watches want you to have a phone - e.g. the Pebble Time.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49362" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8135" RevisionGUID="ff86c8f7-ee89-4fd5-ad4f-e34702d0a1b8" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="According to the [manual][1], page 54 and onwards, you can assign a custom configuration to the scan button. There is a caveat in the manual that says you cannot scan via wireless using the button, but that's not a factor in your question.&#xA;&#xA;        Assigning Start Button Settings or Scan Jobs&#xA;    You can view or change the default scan settings when you scan using&#xA;    the start button on your scanner.&#xA;    You do this by accessing the scan jobs in the Document Capture Pro (Windows)&#xA;    or Document Capture (OS X) program.&#xA;&#xA;The manual does not provide a screen shot of the page that would allow you to specify double sides, in the pp 54-55 region, but does show such a page elsewhere in the manual. &#xA;&#xA;It is typical for scanner software to allow custom configuration of various buttons on the device. Mediocre software often omits such features.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51578.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49363" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6994" RevisionGUID="f1a73d93-1c37-4d0f-ba9d-d54defb0bc98" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Pretty much only lenovo seems to make keyboards with trackpoints. &#xA;&#xA;I've been using one with a small trackball and it works pretty well. [This specific one][1] is made by IOGear. its not quite as awesome as a trackpoint but I find its very usable. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;The keyboard has excellent travel and the keys are far enough to be usable even with big hands. &#xA;&#xA;Its 2.4ghz wireless and has its own proprietary dongle . Its battery powered (Pair of AAA batteries) so no USB cables. &#xA;&#xA;Has multimedia keys (if you need them) and the option of those little mouse buttons or a pair of &quot;shoulder&quot; buttons. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.iogear.com/product/GKM681R/&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9w4M.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49364" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6768" RevisionGUID="f4d6fbe0-807b-405b-ae1c-07f13d48788b" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# For Commercial Use: #&#xA;&#xA;We have been using [Open-Mesh access points][1] at my work (specifically the [OM5p-AC][2]) and I love 'em. They connect to each other wirelessly, but I don't think they will connect to your existing wireless network wirelessly. I recommend that you buy two. Hardwire one to the router. The second one will connect wirelessly to the first one and act as an access point. Turn off the wireless radio on your router.&#xA;&#xA; - Pros: Seamless wireless network with high availability&#xA; - Cons: Expensive&#xA;&#xA;Some people might not like that you can only manage these access points through cloudtrax.com. There is no local management interface. I thought I wouldn't like this setup until I tried it, but I was converted when I realized that all I had to do to set up a new access point was plug it in and enter the MAC address on the website. They do support OpenWRT if you really want to manage them yourself.&#xA;&#xA;# For Personal Use:&#xA;&#xA;What you are looking for is called a repeater or range extender. I have tried the [Netgear N300](http://amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW) and it works fine. Plug it in and forget about it. It has an Ethernet port so you can wirelessly bridge one wired Ethernet client. If you need to bridge more than one wired client, the [TP-Link AC1900](https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wi-Fi-Extender-Supported-TL-WA855RE/dp/B018017S8W) has four Ethernet ports.&#xA;&#xA;According to page 87 of the [user manual](https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC3200/HelpDesk_Manual/), you can put the AC3200 in Repeater Mode. I have tried re-purposing routers as repeaters and decided I didn't like it because they turn back into routers if they get reset for some reason (it's happened a couple times due to power surges). If that happens, you get a network with two routers, and then bad things happen (DHCP conflicts). Hardware designed for use as a repeater is simpler and more reliable.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.open-mesh.com/solutions.html&#xA;  [2]: http://www.open-mesh.com/products/access-points/grp-om5p-ac-cloud-access-point.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49365" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6728" RevisionGUID="430d99e3-f566-4d22-b27a-7b5e9e183d8b" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I think what you're looking for is:&#xA;&#xA;## The [Feitian ePass2003][1]&#xA;(or some other token from their ePass line)&#xA;&#xA; - It costs less than a YubiHSM - Feitian sells them at 70USD for five pieces + customs, taxes and shipping&#xA; - It supports RSA, AES and 3DES with card-stored keys&#xA; - It supports the Windows CSP and has a PKCS#11 library&#xA; - It claims support for Linux, Windows and OS X&#xA; - It's a USB form-factor, about as large as your average USB-stick&#xA; - As a bonus [it has a FIPS 140-2 Lvl 3 certification][2] and is the _only_ token that you can freely purchase with this level of assurance&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ftsafe.com/products/PKI/Standard/Specification&#xA;  [2]: http://csrc.nist.gov/groups/STM/cmvp/documents/140-1/140val-all.htm#2204" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6715" RevisionGUID="ff993228-bd65-4ba8-9ab6-73d25f00f3a7" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Im looking for a laptop as a mostly backend developer. i did some research but there is a few gaps in my knowledge.&#xA;&#xA;Specs:&#xA;&#xA; * price €1000 - 1500&#xA; * Super fast processor, needs to run console applications + web + Visual studio/Rider and VS code.&#xA; * Screen of +1080p  * 16gb+ memory, (for all the docker containers). (Will DDR4 Bring performance?)&#xA; * SSD only (258GB is enough)&#xA; * Graphics cards only if needed to render visual studio/Rider, otherwise rather use Intel Grapics.&#xA; * Windows does not need to be installed. (Rather without, i'll probably run on linux)&#xA; * its light, so i can take it anywhere. &#xA;&#xA;# Processor&#xA;&#xA;For processors i ended up with:&#xA;&#xA;* Ci7-6700HQ&#xA;* Ci7-7700HQ (10% faster)&#xA;&#xA;They are both quad and 8 threads (great for running these multiple applications).&#xA;&#xA;## Found laptops&#xA;&#xA;* MSI GP62M 7RD-014NL (Leopard) €1200&#xA;* HP 15-ax235nd  (Omen) €1400&#xA;&#xA;But my problem is that all these laptops are build and promoted as gaming laptops. I'm looking for a work laptop which i can take anywhere and doesn't really look like a gaming laptop.&#xA;&#xA;All i'm looking for is fast processor, ssd and memory. Are there laptops specifically build for this?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49367" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6558" RevisionGUID="834af86c-9eb9-4f76-b07f-f31204a4b8b2" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The other answer's suggestion is a _bit expensive_ for my taste (with several hundred dollar).&#xA;&#xA;So I can recommend the soundcard I'm using myself to power my 5.1 speaker system. However you don't really need all the features so instead I'm gonna recommend the functionally largely equivalent, but cheaper version:&#xA;&#xA;## The ASUS Xonar U5&#xA;&#xA;On [Amazon.com][1] and [on the official website.][2]&#xA;&#xA;For the relevant I/O it features 3x 3.5mm jack output for your speakers as well as S/PDIF. The audio processor seems to be just slightly worse than that of my card but should still do a good job. Not that I don't know whether Dolby Live (a driver technology to dolby digital encode the system audio on the fly so you can squeeze the data into the bandwith limit) is a thing for the U5 so you may not be able to use more than two speakers over SPDIF.&#xA;&#xA;OS compatibility is a given and it will work with all Windows and OS X / macOS versions (at least down to Win7).&#xA;&#xA;If you're feeling fancy you could also go with the [Xonar U7][3] however then you'd have to look out for the fact that left and right have RCA instead of 3.5mm jack output (but the bundled software seems to be better with the U7).&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MI8IDRE/&#xA;  [2]: https://www.asus.com/Sound-Cards/Xonar_U5/overview/&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7QA9E0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49368" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6497" RevisionGUID="930dd0b8-4250-4a08-901a-1f194d3481f1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The focusrite 2i2 has what you need. [Here is a link][1] that has the full specs, but some of the relevant ones are: &#xA; &#xA;&gt;Front panel&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- 2x line/mic/instrument combination inputs high quality XLR / 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xA;&gt;- Combo 2x Line/Instrument switches &#xA;&gt;- 2x Gain knobs &#xA;&gt;- 2x Gain halo signal indicators 48V Phantom power switch Direct monitor switch&#xA;&gt;- Large monitor level dial &#xA;&gt;- USB Connection LED indicator &#xA;&gt;- Headphone output - 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xA;&gt;- Headphone level knob&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Rear panel&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;- 2 balanced monitor outputs 1/4&quot; TRS Jack &#xA;&gt;- USB 2.0 Port &#xA;&gt;- Kensington Lock slot&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Digital Performance: Supported rates 44.1 KHz, 48 KHz, 88.2 KHz, 96 KHz&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Dimensions (H x W x D) 45 x 175 x 100mm / 1.77 x 6.88 x 3.93&quot; &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Weight 580g / 20.45oz&#xA; &#xA;I regret not saving up for the 2i4, so you may want to consider that. But overall, I have been very happy with my 2i2, plus I must say, their customer service is excellent. Hope this helps!&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.adorama.com/frsc2i2usb.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA7ejCBRDlp8uF6ezPnjoSJAAPED7MHtXexM6vqmXUx4mDSLmBXI6ZzZlYhPaYXwKV7q51RxoCy1bw_wcB" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49369" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6474" RevisionGUID="2ee2255d-85df-436f-8a2d-f2e7252e31b7" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Assuming you'd prioritise raw performance over portability and battery life, I'd recommend the &#xA;&#xA;## [Dell Precision 15 7150][1] ($2,235)&#xA;&#xA;It's a workstation laptop configurable to have a 512 GB NVMe SSD.&#xA;&#xA;The CPU is an [Intel Xeon E3-1505M v5][2], a quad core, hyperthreaded CPU, with base clock of 2.8 GHz and turbo up to 3.7 GHz (4 core turbo would be 3.5 GHz), it is one of the most powerful mobile CPUs currently on the market.&#xA;&#xA;If you plan on heavily utilising the Intel graphics, or a large L4 cache appeals to you, then you can upgrade to the [E3-1545M v5][3], with GT4e graphics, and the associated 128 MB of eDRAM on die.&#xA;&#xA;In the default configuration, the laptop comes with Windows 10 Pro preinstalled, but you could choose to forgo that. With Ubuntu preinstalled, you save the licence price of $94. Note though, that they install Ubuntu 14.04 LTS, not the latest 16.04 LTS or 16.10.&#xA;&#xA;The laptop also comes with a [Quadro M2000M][4]. While a Quadro specifically isn't necessary, its 640 CUDA cores and 4 GB of VRAM make it well suited for accelerating TensorFlow using cuDNN.&#xA;&#xA;RAM starts at 32 GB and is upgradable up to 64 GB. Upgrading to ECC RAM is also an option. Note that laptop OEMs tend to overcharge for RAM upgrades, so you might be better off purchasing your own, if you wanted more.&#xA;&#xA;The display is a fairly mediocre 1080p one. You might choose to upgrade to 4K, or a wider gamut panel, add a camera or remove the microphone.&#xA;&#xA;You might also like to upgrade to a backlit keyboard ($33), a higher capacity battery, add a second hard drive and/or add a RAID card.&#xA;&#xA;To summarise: The Dell Precision is a highly customisable and powerful mobile workstation. It should take care of anything you throw at it with speed, and it also supports Ubuntu (optionally preinstalled).&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/precision-m7510-workstation/pd?3x_nav=HD_CAPACITY_GB%3D512&amp;3x_page=1&amp;filterCollapsed=true&#xA;  [2]: https://ark.intel.com/products/89608/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1505M-v5-8M-Cache-2_80-GHz&#xA;  [3]: https://ark.intel.com/products/93359/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1545M-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz&#xA;  [4]: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-Quadro-M2000M.151581.0.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49370" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6468" RevisionGUID="72094f5b-6918-493c-91db-9758af5a43d6" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I would recomend the [UDOO Family][1] or the [Odroid Family][2] (Both came with their own Ubuntu flavor).&#xA;&#xA;&gt; 2. Wifi card included &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; 3. Able to run 24/7 without overheating&#xA;&#xA;If this works 24/7 you could damage the Wifi card; as you need for WiFi, you could instead buy an USB Wifi Module like [this][3] or [this][4]. The main attraction of the Pi 3 are the Wi-fi and Bluetooth, but in this case maybe is more important to invest in RAM, a best processor and heatsink.&#xA;&#xA;For your budget an excellent investment would be the **Odroid XU4**&#xA;&#xA;Processor: Samsung Exynos5422 Cortex™-A15 2Ghz and Cortex™-A7 Octa core&#xA;&#xA;CPUs: Mali-T628 MP6(OpenGL ES 3.0/2.0/1.1 and OpenCL 1.1 Full profile)&#xA;&#xA;RAM: 2Gbyte LPDDR3 RAM PoP stacked&#xA;&#xA;USB: 2xUSB 3.0 Host, 1 x USB 2.0 Host&#xA;&#xA;Ethernet: Gigabit Ethernet port&#xA;&#xA;Size: 82 x 58 x 22 mm approx.(including cooling fan) **&lt;--- This is a BIG plus.**&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.udoo.org&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/main.php&#xA;  [3]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G137447734369&#xA;  [4]: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G145431421052" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49371" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10695" RevisionGUID="b0e1a57b-1ecc-40df-96c2-1474075d6a0f" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The **Detroit DIY Electronics Wifi-5370-Antenna** might be an option: http://detroit-electronics.com/Wifi_Adapter_Dongle_For_Raspberry_Pi/wifi-for-raspberry-pi-antenna&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Chipset: RT5370&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Great for ethical hacking projects (this model supports packet injection)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49372" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6889" RevisionGUID="6baf803c-657e-40db-8c4a-26e554796a21" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Since this has been bumped to the front page, I'd like to add a current generation laptop for anyone *currently* looking for a laptop. I'm recommending the&#xA;&#xA;## Gigabyte AERO 14 ([Newest version, A$2699](http://www.austin.net.au/gigabyte-aero14w-1060-bk7-14-gaming-notebook.html))&#xA;&#xA;While it's weight is 1.89 kg, which is slightly above the OP requirements, it is significantly lighter than many other laptops with comparable hardware, for example, the [Alienware 13](http://www.dell.com/au/p/alienware-13-laptop/pd?oc=z5193a4au&amp;model_id=alienware-13-laptop), which weighs 2.6 kg.&#xA;&#xA;The display is a QHD IPS panel, though it's somewhat dim, measured at less than 300 cd/m^2 by [this review](http://translate.google.com/translate?tl=EN&amp;sl=DE&amp;hl=EN&amp;js=y&amp;prev=hp&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Findex.php%2Fartikel%2Fhardware%2Fnotebooks%2F41263-kompakter-alleskoenner-mit-viel-ausdauer-das-gigabyte-aero-14-im-test.html), because it's a matte (non-reflective) panel, it should be usable outdoors.&#xA;&#xA;The CPU is the **i7 7700HQ (2.2 GHz, 2.8 Turbo)**, the newest generation high performance quad core. While not top of the line, the only faster CPUs are the same, with only a few hundred MHz extra clock speed.&#xA;&#xA;The base model also comes with **16 GB DDR4 2400**, a **512 GB M.2 SSD** and the **GTX 1060 GPU (1280 CUDA cores, 6 GB VRAM)**, which is a desktop class GPU: Even at maximum detail settings and native resolution, it should be able to maintain more than 30 FPS for today's AAA games.&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, there is **no Ethernet** port, so the laptop relies on 802.11 ac WiFi, though you could use a USB to LAN adaptor. There are **three USB 3.0 (Type A) and one USB 3.1 (type C)** ports, as well as HDMI 2.0, mini-DP, Headphone-out jack and a SD card reader. I don't believe it comes with an optical drive&#xA;&#xA;The grey version linked looks fairly standard and minimalist, and while it is preinstalled with Windows 10, Windows 7 should be supported" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49373" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8222" RevisionGUID="65dc673c-7471-4200-bdd3-32b0c534b3c2" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# MoCA WAN Bridge&#xA;&#xA;Assuming your friend is using Verizon FiOS, the &quot;modem&quot; you're talking about is an Optical Network Terminal (ONT), and it connects to the Verizon router via MoCA WAN (not to be confused with MoCA LAN). There's a good summary [here](http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077) about the various router configurations.&#xA;&#xA;What you're describing sounds most like option 10 on that page, so you would need a single MoCA WAN bridge like [the D-Link DXN-221](https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DXN-221-MoCa-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B0024FAQL2/). [This reviewer](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2HNGA6SCZC5W1/) indicated they were able to replace their Verizon FiOS router with this device.&#xA;&#xA;**Most MoCA adapters are LAN only and won't work for the WAN connection from the router to the ONT.**&#xA;&#xA;Since a MoCA WAN bridge is so expensive/hard to find, I recommend you stick with fred_dot_u's suggestion and just use the Verizon router as the bridge to the router." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49374" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8004" RevisionGUID="d6a2497f-2719-4780-9ad3-59fc8bd15fca" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="If you're willing to sort the documents as suggested in the comments by Edward Nunn, then my answer here should be of help to you:&#xA;&#xA;https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7692/document-scanner-with-specific-modes/7693#7693&#xA;&#xA;You can definitely find cheaper units that don't use features like Auto Document Feed (ADF) and whatever else you don't need, but if you need to get this project done fast in a business setting then I'd recommend something with ADF at least. Considering the apparent scale of your project, the cost of additional man hours put in due to the absence of those features would probably approach or exceed the cost of just buying the scanner.&#xA;&#xA;-----&#xA;&#xA;# Original Question From Link:&#xA;&#xA;We are in search for a business document scanner with following scan options, all done over a ADF.&#xA;&#xA;Simplex: front side&#xA;&#xA;Duplex: front and back side&#xA;&#xA; 1. Simplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF.&#xA; 2. Simplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xA; 3. Duplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF (One PDF with front and back side).&#xA; 4. Duplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.&#xA;&#xA;We talked with a supplier of ours and got a Brother ADS-2800W from him, but its incapable of mode nr 3.&#xA;After some research and getting back with the Brother Support, none of Brothers Scanner is apparently capable of nr 3.&#xA;&#xA;Of course we also tried the usual ways (google, product comparison websites and all those &quot;Best Scanners of &gt;&gt;insert year here&lt;&lt;&quot;-Reviews) but none of those gave the information needed or didnt comply with at least one criteria.&#xA;&#xA;Criteria:&#xA;&#xA; - ADF&#xA; - A4 sheet size&#xA; - Modes listed above&#xA; - Desktop size&#xA; - WLAN / LAN&#xA; - Save to SMB Network Share&#xA; - Price of 600€ / $ top&#xA;&#xA;Thanks in advance for any kind of help!&#xA;&#xA;-------&#xA;&#xA;# Full answer below:&#xA;&#xA;My office recently grabbed an HP ScanJet 3000 S3. It's a bit above your price range (closer to $800-900), but I've been in charge of developing our scan process and I can tell you with confidence that it does everything you listed.&#xA;&#xA;We specifically got it to digitize old paper records, and it is set up at a small stand-alone desk with a computer.&#xA;&#xA;- ADF = Included&#xA;- A4 sheet size = Included, also has other custom paper sizes. Smaller sheets can sometimes have trouble being grabbed by the feed mechanism, but it's functional.&#xA;- Modes listed above = All included.&#xA;- Desktop size = Fits on a pretty tiny desk with plenty of room to work. Very space efficient. &#xA;- WLAN / LAN = This feature exists but you have to buy a $40 wireless adapter that is made special just for this unit, and you can only scan to mobile devices using this method. I know don't even get me started right now, but this thing works and finding a wireless workaround solution was extremely simple since we work from a server platform. We returned the stupid $40 USB dongle.&#xA;- Save to SMB Network Share = Included.&#xA;- Price of 600€ / $ top = Nope.&#xA;&#xA;It's far from a perfect solution and you usually won't find me recommending products that don't fit the user's question, but we had a particularly long and arduous experience trying to find something that would fit our needs. I see similar conditions in your post. We had to make a few compromises, but at the end of the day we needed something and this little headache of a scanner made our project possible. Perhaps it can do the same for you.&#xA;&#xA;I can definitely tell you that unless you're looking for something used, duplex auto-document feed scanners that can handle even a 50 page count stack at a time don't exist for under $600. Well, they may exist, but there wasn't anything I found that was suitable and trustworthy enough for business use.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49375" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8279" RevisionGUID="1f53677f-87b1-43d6-80db-4c16821708d3" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The question [What exactly is the cause of RAM incompatibility?](https://superuser.com/questions/1250578/what-exactly-is-the-cause-of-ram-incompatibility) on superuser provides a good overview of possible causes for incompatibility. The answers to the question provide some interesting reasoning.&#xA;&#xA;https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206&#xA;&gt;You might have two RAM sticks with the same part number and one can tolerate a 5% undervoltage and the other can't, and the mobo might put out a low voltage because it's poorly calibrated.&#xA;But, again, this is very rare now. Sane combinations almost always work.&#xA;Before DDR2, it was a mess. After DDR2, it was sufficiently standardized.&#xA;&#xA;In the follow up discussion https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk&#xA;&#xA;&gt; These days, it's almost always the obvious incompatibilities. That is, if it doesn't work, you can usually figure out why. When you can't, the most likely explanation is that some part is just crappy.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;In the old days, weird incompatibilities were not that unusual. But since the DDR2 standard, cases of incompatibility not involving one of the explanations mentioned are fairly rare. Most of those cases are likely to be components that are not quite meeting their specifications.&#xA;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206&#xA;&gt; I built many systems throughout my career and I have not once looked at the supported RAM list before I chose the components. And I have never had any incompatibilities so far. That being said, the list can give guidance to beginners and less experienced people to select the correct components to build a good working system.&#xA;&#xA;From another answer https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206&#xA;&gt;The answer lies within the memory controller. The memory controller used to be on the north-bridge of the motherboard. It had to negotiate all the features that the CPU supported for direct memory access. So the CPU is really the determining factor that limited what memory you could use even though it appeared to be a motherboard capability. This is more obvious now that the memory controller lives inside the CPU in all modern chips made by Intel, AMD, and ARM. The motherboard firmware contains microcode from the CPU manufacturer that dictates what kind of features for direct memory access it supports. So the software still lives in the motherboard but the hardware is in the CPU now.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;The clocking of CPU and Memory are directly linked through the Base Clock. They have to be multiples of each other in sync. Aside from that the details of Direct Memory Access are non-trivial and I will not attempt to explain here. My understanding is that just like MB and CPU manufacturers have different implementations and features, so do different memory modules. Within one memory manufacturer, like Kingston, the actual chips could be made by Samsung, Hynix, or someone else. They should all follow a spec but maybe they don't implement every feature the same way.&#xA;&#xA;While no answer was accepted, one was given the &quot;bounty&quot;; https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206. The answer provides some examples of what may cause incompatibility. &#xA;&#xA;Using the&#xA;&#xA;* (Could not find the specification for INNODISK)&#xA;* [Samsung datasheet 288pin Unbuffered DIMM &#xA;based on 8Gb B-die](http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/global/file/product/2017/02/M391A1K43BB1-4.pdf)&#xA;* [SK hynix DDR4 SDRAM Unbuffered DIMM Based on 8Gb M-die](http://www.skhynix.com/product/filedata/fileDownload.do?seq=7112)&#xA;&#xA;I have tried to create a comparison table. Mainly for the fun of it :)&#xA;&#xA;My best [uninformed] guess is that with the new CPUs, motherboards and memories the main criteria for memory compatibility is the common referred specifications, and any incompatibility issue is mainly due to &quot;bad luck&quot;.&#xA;&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;                |      INNODISK      |      SK HYNIX      |      SAMSUNG     |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;                | M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93 | HMA82GU7MFR8N-TFT0 | M391A2K43BB1-CPB |&#xA;                |                    |   (revision 1.2)   |                  |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;        chipset |  K4A8G085WB-BCPB   |  H5AN8G8NMFR-TFC   |K4A8G085WB-BCPBM00|&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;       bandwith |     2133 MT/s      |      2133 MT/s     |     2133 MT/s    |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;      frequency |    (1066.67MHz)    |    (1066.67MHz)    |      1066MHz     |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;        voltage |        1.2         |         1.2        |        1.2       |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;           rank |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2       |       Rank 2     |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;        density |       16GB         |     16GB (2Rx8)    |    16GB (2Gx72)  |&#xA;                |                    |1Gx8(H5AN8G8NMFR)*18|1Gx8(K4A8G085WB-BC##)*18|&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;        timings |====================+====================+==================|&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;     cycle time |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns       |       0.93ns     |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;       tCK(min) |                    |       0.937        |       0.938      |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;             CL |         15         |         15         |        15        |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;      tRCD(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;       tRP(min) |                    |    14.06 (13.50)   |     15 (14.06)   |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;      tRAS(min) |                    |         33         |         33       |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;       tRC(min) |                    |    47.06 (46.50)   |       47.06      |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;            CMD |                    |                    |                  |&#xA;                +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+&#xA;&#xA;# Update&#xA;I purchased the `M391A2K43BB1-CPB` and installed it; the computer boots without any errors, and no errors are reported after test:&#xA;&#xA;* running MemTest86 (v7.4) 4 to 5 passes (~12h),&#xA;* running stressapptest (v1.0.8) `stressapptest -W -s 3600`.&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49376" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10605" RevisionGUID="693f73f0-9d2e-4d79-ac52-503f5eebdfd3" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="## LG gram 14z980&#xA;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B32P1PJ/ref=emc_b_5_t&#xA;&#xA;Actually I use LG gram 15z980 to write this answer. I recommend the 15'' version since it has number pad, convenient when entering a lot numbers.&#xA;&#xA;- Price: $959.98 (I didn't check other sites)&#xA;- Weight: 2.2 lbs = 0.997 kg&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Very very very light&#xA;- CPU: 8th Gen. Intel Core i5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Enough for latex, I also use TeXStudio every day.&#xA;- 8 GB RAM&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  You could add your own, much cheaper.&#xA;- No disk drive&#xA;- 256 GB SSD&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  That's due to your price requirement, but you could add your own SSD and RAM to it, too! I also bought the cheapest version and added another 500 GB SSD and 8 GB of RAM.&#xA;- 1 USB C, 2 USB 3.0.&#xA;  So at least two USB type-A ports.&#xA;- Battery is very very good: 21.5 hours according to the page.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  I bring it to school everyday without charger.&#xA;- It has Windows 10 Home. Now I use Ubuntu 18.04 on it for better coding, the only drawback is the fingerprint sensor which doesn't work under it. All other things are fine.&#xA;- It's light and without a dedicated GPU, so you could foucs on office work, LaTex, Java coding (for me it's Python) etc.&#xA;&#xA;Note that the Lg gram 2019 version is on its way (CPU+10% approximately, all with Thunderbolt), but it depends on you. From my perspective the 2018 version is enough. It may save some money to buy the 2018 version when the 2019 version  gets released, though. I'm not sure about that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10550" RevisionGUID="fe2ae28a-f367-4d57-873c-3777edd066d0" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm planning an upgrade of a gaming PC. This is my current setup:&#xA;&#xA;```&#xA;CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 @ 3.00GHz&#xA;MB: ASUS H-81 Plus&#xA;GPU: GeForce GTX 560 Ti&#xA;RAM: 8 GB&#xA;```&#xA;&#xA;I want to replace GPU with RXT2060 and later at some point upgrade CPU to i7.&#xA;&#xA;## The question is:&#xA;### Is this plan viable? Will I have noticable performance growth if I only upgrade the GPU? Or must I upgrade both at once?&#xA;&#xA;Thank you very much in advance for your answers!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10358" RevisionGUID="011df4bc-fa71-4a00-bd87-186e70fb6ebf" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The new Martel Dragon Stenomask has an all-digital USB microphone that improves the speech recognition. Setting the new Standard for real-time voice recognition for court reporters. see it here. [Revolutionary Dragon Stenomask for Court Reporters.][1] &#xA;&#xA;Thanks Carl &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.martelelectronics.com/revolutionary-dragon-stenomask-for-voice-recognition/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10065" RevisionGUID="b9f2b7c3-87ba-46f0-991f-479af56d0939" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Reliance JioPhone 2&#xA;&#xA;It might still be early days, but the Reliance JioPhone 2 feature phone from India might soon become a viable option for the smartphone haters among us.&#xA;&#xA;As a matter of fact, [Reliance is opening up shop in Estonia](https://www.gadgetsnow.com/tech-news/reliance-jio-eyes-europe-now-may-set-up-company-in-estonia/articleshow/64272243.cms), taking out a [European e-residency](https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/company/corporate-trends/mukesh-ambani-sets-up-estonian-jv-for-e-governance-takes-up-e-residency/articleshow/66497754.cms). Provided the appropriate LTE bands are supported, such a European JioPhone 2 might be perfectly usable in the US.&#xA;&#xA;[Reliance Jio is expected to become the 10th largest phone brand in the world](https://www.gsmarena.com/analysts_jio_to_become_10th_largest_phone_brand_in_the_world-news-33847.php).&#xA;&#xA;As for the operating system, the closed-source [KaiOS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KaiOS), runs  the Linux kernel and happens to be a far descendent of Firefox OS. KaiOS brings support for 4G LTE E, GPS and Wi-Fi with HTML5-based apps and longer battery life to non-touch devices with optimised user interface, less memory and energy consumption.&#xA;&#xA;However, be aware that [Google invested $22M in this](https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/07/09/why-did-google-invest-22-million-in-a-dumb-phone-o.aspx) feature phone operating system. By investing in KaiOS, Google ensures that core apps like Search, Maps, YouTube, and Assistant reach feature phone users. Google likely hopes that those users will grow dependent on the services, and that these users will eventually upgrade to Android smartphones.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[![Reliance JioPhone 2][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOSRQ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49380" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9428" RevisionGUID="5cdcb0f7-668e-40e0-a6a2-f5cb6a59639e" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Probably the Node 202 based on price, but making your own could be pretty cool.&#xA;&#xA;Although really it depends how much you care about size vs. cost vs. your own time, since you're not exactly trying to cram a lot of hardware in.&#xA;&#xA;# Compatibility&#xA;&#xA;Looking at an overhead view of the motherboard, it clearly shares the same mounting holes as mITX.&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;So any case with mITX support–such as any one from the the 15 pages [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=8&amp;xcx=0)–will work. Not sure what case you were trying that didn't work; most cases these days have support for mITX.&#xA;&#xA;# Off the shelf cases&#xA;&#xA;The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like. Most of this is copied from my previous answer [here.](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8705/general-mini-itx-recommendations/8748#8748)&#xA;&#xA;## Very small cases&#xA;&#xA;These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.&#xA;&#xA;### [Dr. Zaber Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home)&#xA;**$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU**&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg)&#xA;&#xA;It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. [They're apparently targeting Q1 2018](https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833), but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xA;&#xA;### [NFC Skyreach 4 MINI](http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/)&#xA;&#xA;**$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special**&#xA;&#xA;It's the smallest case in this category. Note that video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed (a [$95 400W DC-DC](https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html) and a [$58 200W DC-DC](https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w)); however, these should be non-issues for you.&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png)&#xA;&#xA;### [DAN A4-SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php)&#xA;**$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg)&#xA;&#xA;You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;## Pretty small cases&#xA;&#xA;These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!&#xA;&#xA;### [NCASE M1](https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1)&#xA;**$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)**&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png)&#xA;&#xA;The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.&#xA;&#xA;### [Fractal Design Node 202](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202)&#xA;**[$80](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) or [$130 with a 450W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus), 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg)&#xA;It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.&#xA;&#xA;### [Silverstone FTZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533) [RVZ01](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01), [RVZ02](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02), and [RVZ03](http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03)&#xA;**[$85](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b) to [$130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b), 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xA;&#xA;All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg)&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg)&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg)&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg)&#xA;&#xA;### [Silverstone ML08](http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607)&#xA;**[$70](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b), 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L**&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg)&#xA;&#xA;It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!&#xA;&#xA;### Honorable mention&#xA;&#xA;The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat too, but much boxier. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.&#xA;&#xA;## Not as small cases&#xA;&#xA;They're bigger with support for more things! They're also **much quieter.** Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.&#xA;&#xA;### [BitFenix Prodigy](https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/)&#xA;**[$60](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp), 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX**&#xA;&#xA;![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg)&#xA;&#xA;[HardwareCanucks put it best:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI) It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;### Honorable mentions&#xA;&#xA;The [Corsair 380T](http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case) is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The [Silverstone CS01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b) is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The [Cougar QBX](https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/) and [Fractal Design Define Nano S](http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window) are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.&#xA;&#xA;# Your own case&#xA;&#xA;The great thing about building a PC is that you're free to use whatever components you'd like, including building your own! Because you're not trying to cram a lot of hardware in, if you're really bent on getting the smallest case possible, it might be worth looking at rolling your own. The off-the-shelf cases are created with the intention of being used with more &quot;normal&quot; motherboards and usually have to accommodate a PSU and GPU–things that aren't issues in your case. mITX is an open standard, and it doesn't take much to make a basic case.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49381" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8223" RevisionGUID="3f73df25-6fa7-41a0-b50f-094c0bd1cfec" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Kyocera's &quot;Dura&quot; line of phones and Casio's &quot;G'zOne&quot; line&#xA;&#xA; - frequently ~$100 new and ~$20 used.&#xA; - Waterproof and &quot;military grade&quot; specifications for impact resistance and dust resistance.&#xA; - Easily go for a whole week on a single charge.&#xA; - Easy to find these unlocked; not sure how Australia's mobile network works, but I think any [GSM phone](https://www.amazon.com/Kyocera-DuraXE-E4710-Black-Unlocked/dp/B01CDJ7I5K/) will work." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49382" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9340" RevisionGUID="1c6fd68a-5642-40f6-bbaa-40a09d9063d9" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="[Thunderbolt 3](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_(interface)#Thunderbolt_3) offers this already using [USB Power Delivery](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#Power_Delivery_(PD)) of up to 100W&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Thunderbolt 3 was developed by Intel[48] and uses USB-C connectors. It is the first generation to support USB. Compared to Thunderbolt 2, Intel's Thunderbolt 3 controller (codenamed Alpine Ridge) doubles the bandwidth to 40 Gbit/s (5 GB/s), halves power consumption, and simultaneously drives two external 4K displays at 60 Hz (or a single external 4K display at 120 Hz, or a 5K display at 60 Hz when using Apple's implementation for the late-2016 MacBook Pros) instead of just the single display previous controllers can drive. The new controller supports PCIe 3.0 and other protocols, including DisplayPort 1.2 (allowing for 4K resolutions at 60 Hz). &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Thunderbolt 3 has limited power delivery capabilities on copper cables and no power delivery capability on optical cables. Using USB-C on copper cables, it can incorporate USB Power Delivery, allowing the ports to source or sink up to 100 watts of power. This eliminates the need for a separate power supply from some devices. Thunderbolt 3 allows backwards compatibility with the first two versions by the use of adapters or transitional cables.&#xA;&#xA;However, your PC would obviously need a Thunderbolt connection.&#xA;&#xA;If your current PC has only DVI or HDMI outputs, as your post seems to suggest, then as neither of those offer sufficient power for a monitor, then your existing setup would not accommodate your request.&#xA;&#xA;HDMI 1.4a *can* supply power, but the port supplies only 50 &amp;nbsp;mA at 5&amp;nbsp;V DC over pin 18.&#xA;&#xA;Apart from [Apple's 27&quot; Thunderbolt capable monitor][1], which they have just discontinued (although you may be able to still pick up some discounted remaining stock), there aren't that many on the market. LG recently announced two models:&#xA;&#xA; -  34WK95U&#xA; -  32UK950&#xA;&#xA;From [LG teases new Apple-compatible Thunderbolt 3 monitors including '5K UltraWide' model][2]:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; The 34WK95U is a 34-inch model with 5,120-by-2,160 resolution, high&#xA;&gt; dynamic range, and LG's &quot;Nano IPS&quot; technology, which is said to boost&#xA;&gt; the &quot;intensity and purity&quot; of colors. Thunderbolt 3 lets the monitor&#xA;&gt; handle 5K images at 60 hertz, and connect laptops like the MacBook Pro&#xA;&gt; without an additional power source.&#xA;&gt; &#xA;&gt; The 32UK950 will offer a similar featureset, but in a more&#xA;&gt; conventional aspect ratio and with a slightly smaller 32-inch screen.&#xA;&gt; The display is said to hit 98 percent of the DCI-P3 color gamut, with&#xA;&gt; peak brightness of 600 nits, and support a second 4K monitor through&#xA;&gt; daisy-chaining.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://everymac.com/monitors/apple/thunderbolt/specs/apple-thunderbolt-display-27-inch-specs.html&#xA;  [2]: https://appleinsider.com/articles/17/12/21/lg-teases-new-apple-compatible-thunderbolt-3-monitors-including-5k-ultrawide-model" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49383" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9334" RevisionGUID="0fc0a884-ac81-492d-9127-fb5f4c385fb3" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Your motherboard manual, which you can find a [link to here](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B85M-D3H-rev-10-11#support-manual), has a layout map on page twelve.&#xA;&#xA;In the lower right hand corner of that map, there's a pair of pins that are labeled &quot;CLR_CMOS&quot;. It is labeled by reference number 15. CMOS is the onboard memory storage for your motherboard, and is used to save BIOS settings. The CMOS memory can be cleared in two ways without booting the computer or accessing BIOS.&#xA;&#xA;1. Follow the instructions on page 18 to short the pins and clear the CMOS memory:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;Use this jumper to clear the BIOS configurations and reset the CMOS values to factory defaults. To clear the CMOS values, use a metal object like a screwdriver to touch the two pins for a few seconds.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;Always turn off your computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before clearing the CMOS values.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;After system restart, go to BIOS Setup to load factory defaults (select Load Optimized Defaults) or manually configure the BIOS settings (refer to Chapter 2, &quot;BIOS Setup,&quot; for BIOS configurations).&#xA;&#xA;2. Pull the CMOS battery from the board for a few seconds before replacing it. This is located near the center of your motherboard, and is round like a watch battery. In the diagram on page 12 of your manual,  you're looking for number 5 labeled as &quot;BAT&quot;.&#xA;&#xA;After you successfully clear the CMOS memory, factory default  settings should be restored and you should be able to boot the machine normally. Make sure to enter BIOS and re-configure any necessary settings before booting to your operating system.&#xA;&#xA;If that doesn't work, my next order of business in terms of recommendations would probably be to take your power supply into a local shop for testing. This is usually free but you can always call ahead to make sure." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49384" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9280" RevisionGUID="c7b1dc02-903f-4a83-886f-fa54766f81bf" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="## [Dell S2719DM](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2719DM-27-Ultrathin-Monitor/dp/B079QRS43V) ##&#xA;&#xA;This monitor is 27 inches, 2560 by 1440, and claims a brightness of 600 nits. This beats out even the brightest 500 nit Macbooks, and certainly the more common 350 or 400 nit ones. And it's only $350.&#xA;&#xA;It's also fairly thin. It only has HDMI ports, but so does the Mac Mini, so no big deal. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49385" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9349" RevisionGUID="bb1c3872-5953-4fed-9265-c5ee1c5ec87e" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="*I know its an old question at this point, but this answer should still be relevant to someone in need.*&#xA;&#xA;**Crucial MX300 SSD (1TB)** ($239-280 depending on retailer)&#xA;&#xA;&gt; ***The Good*** The Crucial MX300 SSD is competitively priced and delivers fast performance. The solid-state drive uses efficient 3D flash memory and provides strong security with hardware encryption.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;***The Bad*** The drive has a short three-year warranty and trails behind its main competitor, the more expensive Samsung 850 Evo, in performance and features.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt;***The Bottom Line*** If you're looking to upgrade your computer's hard drive, the new Crucial MX300 is a speedy and affordable choice.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[Source][1]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.cnet.com/products/crucial-mx300/review/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49386" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9231" RevisionGUID="89a27984-43a1-4e62-8a00-991455aa05aa" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="&gt; I'm looking for a small laptop with a 10.1 to 11.6 inch screen and an x86 or x86-64 CPU that runs GNU/Linux without hardware incompatibility. Are there any good ones?&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; My current laptop is a Dell Inspiron mini 1012&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; […] I use it for hobby programming projects while riding the city bus to and from my day job.&#xA;&#xA;One of my screens got cracked in public transport, so I understand why you prefer smaller devices. Is [this][1] your Dell mini 1012?&#xA;&#xA;Such small screen sizes usually only feature a 1366x768 resolution at this time. Even though you are used to 10.1 you may want to look a bit beyond 11.6 and get FHD or better screens in return.&#xA;&#xA;Comparing the size of the 10&quot; Dell mini with my 12.5&quot; ASUS C302C, it makes up for its size by being slim and sturdy:&#xA;&#xA;    Dell mini:  270 x 198 x 36 mm&#xA;    Asus C302C: 304 x 210 x 13.7 mm&#xA;&#xA;&gt; - A Chromebook with Chrome OS cannot run most of these applications. As far as I can tell, they would need to be rewritten from scratch in JavaScript as Chrome apps.&#xA;&#xA;We might need to reevaluate this list from time to time. The move to Android apps solved some problems but I'm not saying that it solves yours. Containers on Chrome OS aka Crostini though may solve your problem, but it's not clear at the moment if it takes one update cycle (6 weeks), more than a few months or if it happens this year at all judging by how it went with Android apps on Chrome OS.&#xA;&#xA;&gt; A Chromebook with Crouton begs the user to press space to reenable OS verification (which wipes the drive) every time it turns on. I'm told tools by John Lewis can remove this verification warning from the bootloader, but I assume they void the manufacturer's warranty, and I've had to use my current laptop's warranty before on a loose power jack.&#xA;&#xA;1. Yes you can remove the warning. I would recommend [mrchromebox.tech][2]'s script though as it is actively maintained. To disable write-protect you'll usually find a DIP switch or a screw that shorts a circuit. If your laptop is still booting you can always recover through recovery media or through the script and revert back to the state where your device is eligible for warranty.&#xA;2. In times of USB type-C make sure to get a device with more than one USB-C PD capable port, that should solve this problem. I've heard about loose power jacks, but it didn't happen to me.&#xA;&#xA;# Chrome OS Weekly Buying Advice Thread&#xA;&#xA;VictoryGoth posts weekly advice on [reddit][3], at the moment the following devices would meet your criteria, be sure to check that the processor is not an ARM one though:&#xA;&#xA;- Acer Chromebook Spin 11 (11.65&quot; x 8.11&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/series-features/acerchromebookspin11&#xA;- Asus Chromebook C202SA (307 x 199 x 20.9 mm): https://www.asus.com/Commercial-Laptops/ASUS-Chromebook-Flip-C213NA/specifications/&#xA;- HP Chromebook 11 G6 (12.04 x 8.18 x 0.71 in | 306 x 208 x 18.05 mm): http://www8.hp.com/us/en/products/laptops/product-detail.html?oid=18280450#!tab=specs&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 N7 (11.72&quot; x 8.27&quot; x 0.87&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/professional-series-features/acerchromebook11n7&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 C771 (11.72&quot; x 8.23&quot; x 0.82&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.GNZAA.002&#xA;- Acer Chromebook 11 CB3-132 (11.57&quot; x 8.03&quot; x 0.73&quot;): https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.G4XAA.001&#xA;&#xA;As I said, I would check 12.5&quot; models too should you go with a Chromebook, you get higher resolutions and better processors.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Dell-Mini-1012-Netbook.25429.0.html&#xA;  [2]: https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices&#xA;  [3]: https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/8j983f/weekly_buying_advice_thread_may_13_19/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49387" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9279" RevisionGUID="2eabd416-2cbb-4a4f-8c5f-b7cb4e9a6dd9" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="You have a lot of options with those specifications. I'll assume that you're looking for minimum weight and maximum battery life. A two-in-one is probably your best bet for that&amp;mdash;that is, tablet plus laptop configuration. Or a tablet with a keyboard. &#xA;&#xA; - You might consider the Surface Pro. It comes with up to 16 GB of RAM (but you can probably configure it with only 4 GB if you want), and it should have a long battery life: Microsoft claims that you can play video for over 13 hours. The current generation is actually 12.3 inches, but it should be much lighter than most laptops. It should have a pretty good processor, too. &#xA;&#xA;   Four gigabytes of RAM, an i5, and a 128 GB SSD should be about $1000. You are paying a bit for screen quality there, though, which might not be ideal - there are cheaper options with lower-quality screens. &#xA;&#xA; - If price plus battery life is your main concern, and you don't care much about performance or having a fairly up-to-date processor, you have much lower-priced options. For example, the [Samsung Galaxy Book][1] is another tablet-computer combo, is  about $630, and has a  10.6 inch screen with 4 GB RAM and a 128 GB SSD. It claims 11 hours of video playback. Or basically any of the ones [here](https://www.amazon.com/s/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_two_brow_2?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Cp_n_size_browse-bin%3A13580786011%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A7817222011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A610553011&amp;bbn=565108&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527442121&amp;rnid=562234011) will be cheaper than the Surface Pro. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Windows-storage-SM-W620NZKAXAR/dp/B06XPM5JX2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527441897&amp;sr=1-4&amp;refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A13580786011" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49388" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8472" RevisionGUID="435c7970-2f1c-49b4-b0b1-be1cdd589658" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'd recommend an **Ivy Bridge** or **Sandy Bridge E3 Xeon**, such as the **[E3 1245](https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984)**. These CPUs are more or less lower clocked i7 chips, and have excellent performance. They will, on average, have a performance between a stock i5 and i7. As shown in [these](https://www.techspot.com/review/991-gta-5-pc-benchmarks/page6.html) [benchmarks](https://www.techspot.com/review/1089-fallout-4-benchmarks/page5.html), this means that at 1080p, you will easily lock 60 FPS for the latter two games. It is very likely you will be able to  achieve a minimum of 60 FPS for the near future (ignoring GPU), except on very CPU heavy games like Assasin's Creed.&#xA;&#xA;As to which Xeon to pick specifically, obviously, the bigger the number, the better. Note that the 1220 and 1225 series do not feature hyperthreading, and you may as well buy the equivalent i5. If you can find an equivalent i7 at under your budget, that would also be an option. Ivy Bridge (v2 or 3xxx) CPUs are more or less equivalent to a Sandy Bridge CPU clocked ~ 100 - 200 MHz faster.&#xA;&#xA;These CPUs require a LGA 1155 motherboard. Check the manufacturer's webpage for compatibility if purchasing a Ivy Bridge CPU.&#xA;&#xA;## Honourable mentions&#xA;&#xA;**Newer platform, similar performance:** The **Ryzen 3 1200** is *just* under your budget for [$99.99 at Amazon.com](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741DN383/). At stock, it's about the [same performance](http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-V2-vs-AMD-Ryzen-3-1200/m5622vs3931) as a higher end IB Xeon but you *do* get access to some modern bells and whistles on the newer platform. It has an [average overclock of 3.9 GHz](http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/ryzen_3_1200/), which may give a decent boost to performance. On the other hand, the newer platform has higher costs associated with the RAM and others. The Ryzen CPUs use a AM4 socket.&#xA;&#xA;The new **Coffee Lake i3s** are *just* out of your price range, but *may* also be worth considering. The old AMD **FX series** on the other hand, while a decent amount cheaper, $75 for a &quot;6 core&quot; and $90 for 8 &amp;ndash; and have attractive looking clock speeds &amp;ndash; are definitely to be **avoided**, as they have significantly lower performance due to low IPC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49389" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8555" RevisionGUID="693f3894-9707-4ad8-a0fe-3ca4698fb027" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Update: Three different T-Mobile employees lied to me (&quot;Any tablet that says 4G or LTE works&quot;). After I got the tablet, I tried to use it with my sim card. It wouldn't work, so I called their support. They suddenly mention something about an [IMEI number][1]. I read the number off the device. They now tell me it won't work.&#xA;&#xA;Now I have a cheap, low-powered Windows 10 tablet wasting away in my desk at work.&#xA;&#xA;I suspect you can't get just *any* device you want with an always on connection, and I further suspect I'll have to get a &quot;hotspot&quot; if I want to use my data plan on a linux device.&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;&#xA;I asked this question here because I felt it was very difficult to find exactly what I was looking for. &#xA;&#xA;I was right.&#xA;&#xA;### Dead Ends&#xA;&#xA;I used Google. I searched Amazon, ebay, newegg, T-mobile (my wireless provider), and even Google's shopping. Then I found a site called Frequency Check that would let me search by frequency. &#xA;&#xA;Having been given 1700/2100 bands by a guy at T-Mobile, that's what I primarily searched for - but later I was told by multiple T-Mobile sources that anything with LTE or 4G would work. &#xA;&#xA;Anyways, the models I was finding on Frequency Check were not showing up in my searches. It turned out that, when I could find them, they were only available on the foreign versions of sites. Out of desperation, I started to consider trying to make a purchase from a Chinese site using Google Translate.&#xA;&#xA;### The Holy Grail&#xA;&#xA;After much searching and wondering what I was missing (since I knew the market for this could not have completely died in the USA), I finally decided to watch some CES videos on Youtube, and then I Googled &quot;CES tablet&quot; for a rundown, and finally found what seems to be an ideal 2 in 1 tablet, the [Alcatel Plus 10][2]. &#xA;&#xA;This *still* seemed only available from non-US sources, at least directly from Alcatel's site. But then I found a new in box factory unlocked one on ebay.&#xA;&#xA;Here's my original requirements lined up with my conclusion:&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;T Mobile's data network (1700 and 2100 band?)&quot; - The keyboard has LTE, and by some descriptions can provide connections for up to 15 other people.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;easily rooted&quot; - well, it comes with Windows 10 home, and it is unlocked, so while I won't get the experience of rooting an android tablet... I only have so much time... and I'll have administrator access on the device.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;can run Linux or Android's linux&quot; - Windows 10 home should provide me with a Linux subsystem, but I'm also entirely prepared to install straight Linux on it.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;Bluetooth&quot; - this was important because I wanted to get a clamshell keyboard, but I suppose I can do without it. However, I just checked the specs and it's supposed to be included.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;a clamshell bluetooth keyboard accessory would be good, mouse even better&quot; - well, I suppose I can get a [bluetooth mouse now][3] &#xA;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a regular tablet to navigate when I get off the subway&quot; - I do worry about this a bit, it's a little larger than my almost 8 inch tablet that I used to use to navigate, and google maps was an app only a few taps away, but the keyboard is supposed to include GPS - so I guess we'll see what happens.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;use it like a laptop at meetups&quot; based on the form-factor, I think I can stop lugging my larger Lenovo Yoga around in a backpack now, a major improvement for my lifestyle.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;pipe video to a big screen from it when presenting or demoing code&quot;  - It has HDMI mini, so I suppose I need a cable and/or an adapter.&#xA;&#xA;- &quot;utilize it as a mini screen to expand my laptop's desktop size when working at home&quot; - Still not sure how I'll do this, but I still want to.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;The hard part about this specific model is that I couldn't easily find a seller in the US. &#xA;&#xA;But I scored - I managed to snag what was advertised as the last one on ebay, new in the box, unlocked, [for ~$310][4] including a 2 year warranty (which I hope not to use, and didn't mind spending less than $30 for).&#xA;&#xA;As I was prepared to spend as much just on a tablet and more for a clamshell laptop-y case (probably another $100) I think I have found a solution that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (another of my requests).&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;&#xA;Sidenotes: &#xA;&#xA;A possible competitor was the [Asus Zenpad 10, also ~$300][5], with Android and an optional dockable keyboard (noted in the early promotional material) but I could not find the optional keyboard accessory for sale anywhere- which I would expect to be pricey anyways.&#xA;&#xA;I am usually reticent to buy things as complex as computers or phones on ebay, but given the difficulty of my search and my inability to find a seller through other venues, I really had no choice.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Mobile_Equipment_Identity&#xA;  [2]: http://www.alcatel-mobile.com/gb/plus-10#technical-specs&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Windows-Tablets-910-003971/dp/B00JUHDYSO&#xA;  [4]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alcatel-Plus-10-Convertible-Tablet-Windows-10-32GB-White/192075112453?epid=625706183&amp;hash=item2cb891a005:g:ujYAAOSwa~BYdRR2&#xA;  [5]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ASUS-ZenPad-10-Z301MFL-10-1-inch-3GB-32GB-GSM-ONLY-UNLOCKED-Tablet-PC/362023344374?hash=item544a45d8f6:m:mgUWhkNnMi92rC4MSflnEnQ" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49390" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8301" RevisionGUID="4aae50a1-a693-4fb3-bee9-3e60e664a9b6" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="Google's giving me something close-ish as a first hit (&quot;ethernet KVM switch&quot; was what I used):&#xA;&#xA;switch - https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-8-Port-CAT5-Switch-TK-CAT508/dp/B00I3GKLP2&#xA;USB cables(same as from the switch page) - https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-8-Port-CAT5-Switch-TK-CAT508/dp/B00I3GKJEK&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Manage servers over CAT5 cables for distances up to 30 m &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; 8 Ethernet ports to connect to servers &#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Dual Console support Supports both USB and PS/2 connections &#xA;&#xA;There's probably more, and probably something rack-mount to boot, but that's 8 ports already." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8832" RevisionGUID="d105b769-9502-4f4d-8c03-cddc52b0e80b" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="In case you don't mind paying near to $250 on a fitness watch, you need to check out the Garmin Vívoactive 3. This is the best ever I could suggest within your budget and also it has all the features you want like you said above. BUT, if you need to make a second choice, you should consider the Fitbit Ionic. &#xA;&#xA;It is like a straight fight between Pepsi vs Cola, DC vs Marvel, PS4 vs Xbox One, Android vs iOS. So the rival for Garmin is Fitbit. You can take a look at the [comparison][1] or read review before making final choice.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;*Some additional info*.&#xA;&#xA;**Weight** : &#xA;&#xA;Fitbit Ionic = 50 grams (or to be exact = 49.8952 grams)&#xA;&#xA;Garmin Vivoactive 3 = 43 grams&#xA;&#xA;So the winner here is Fitbit Ionic&#xA;&#xA;**Battery life**  : &#xA;&#xA;Fitbit = 4 days&#xA;Garmin = 7 days&#xA;&#xA;So the winner here is Garmin Vívoactive 3&#xA;&#xA;**Software Compatibility and Features** : &#xA;&#xA;Garmin - If you are really into fitness freak or maybe something like endurance athletes and detailed performance junkie. This is the best to utilize a lot of activities such as cycling, golf, skiing, sports tracking, etc. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Fitbit - It is preferable for people who desire a less complicated user interface, are keen on daily activity monitoring and get social functions. &#xA;&#xA;**Conclusion** : &#xA;&#xA;What you stated above &quot;track calories consumed, burnt and also help manage time allotments to various activities like sleep, eating, etc..&quot;&#xA;&#xA;It is all can be done via both fitness tracker, but in term more added function or more details tracking, the winner is Garmin is here. But if you are not really into that, the best is Fitbit Ionic, with great display quality (that is the thing that make the battery duration for the Ionic less than Vivoactive) and less complicated user interface, it could be great for you which is at home the most of the time.&#xA;&#xA;Finally, my guess, the Fitbit Ionic is more suitable for you. For more details specs, i guess you should check out their official website, it might be a very long answer if i need to elaborate all of the details aspects and features.&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://wearvs.com/compare/fitbit-ionic-vs-garmin-vivoactive-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49392" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8990" RevisionGUID="071e5830-14c4-4d5d-896d-92a2c1d626db" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Answers up front:&#xA;&#xA;&gt;does it support an additional SSD or have I to replace its current HDD with a new SSD?&#xA;&#xA;Yes, you should* be able to install an M.2 SSD alongside your current HDD (see below). You can also replace the current 2.5 inch HDD with a 2.5 inch SSD.&#xA;&#xA;&gt;And which form factor should I look for when shopping?&#xA;&#xA;The M.2 SSD and 2.5 inch HDD / SSD / SSHD form factors are compatible with your laptop. I do not recommend SSHD &quot;hybrid&quot; drives, they're extra money for no real world gain.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;# Explanation and source&#xA;&#xA;Here's a nicely detailed teardown I found:&#xA;&#xA;https://www.laptopmain.com/msi-gp62mvr-6rf-leopard-pro-disassembly-and-ram-hdd-ssd-upgrade-options/&#xA;&#xA;I'm operating under the assumption that you have a &quot;MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF&quot; *PRO*, as I can't find any info on other models.&#xA;&#xA;From the picture in the link, your laptop supports a 2.5 inch standard form factor HDD / SSD as well as an M.2 SSD. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Seems to me that if you took the HDD option, the M.2 slot will be empty. You can pop off the bottom of the laptop and check for yourself. If this is the case, you can definitely order a compatible M.2 SSD and install it fairly easily.&#xA;&#xA;---&#xA;&#xA;# Part Recommendation&#xA;&#xA;I'll be happy to help you pick out a specific component if you can confirm that you have the &quot;PRO&quot; model of the laptop for me. Don't want to waste time researching for the wrong model laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49393" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9010" RevisionGUID="dfb2111d-6541-4c5e-b14f-8b81ad1bf8ef" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I suspect its a *little* too small but at least in theory the [unihertz jelly pro][1] probably checks off *most* of your boxes. I have the non pro version, and have had to use it as a primary phone for short periods of time&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt; budget armoured up oneplus 3 for scale.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&#xA;That's the jelly compared to a fairly standard 5.5 inch phone/ &#xA;&#xA;Its a bit on the fat size but very light - I have it as a backup phone and fits in a jeans coin pocket with the optional rubber case.&#xA;&#xA;Its all plastic, right down to the screen - this actually makes it more drop resistant than many fancy modern phones.&#xA;&#xA;Runs a fairly stock android, with 7.0 out of the box &#xA;&#xA;Replacable and removable battery.&#xA;&#xA;2.4 inch screen - its a bit on the small side but works alright even with fairly big hands.&#xA;&#xA;No stylus but *any* capasitive stylus should work, and you get one for a few dollars.&#xA;&#xA;I'm not sure how long unihertz intends to support the jelly for but there's a planned 8.1 update, and it ships with 7.0&#xA;&#xA;Camera is *terrible* but I run it as a secondary phone.&#xA;&#xA;My dad uses his and... is slightly ambivalent towards it so it might be a *little* too small. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.unihertz.com/store/product/jelly-pro/&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JurEg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49394" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="8786" RevisionGUID="fb53f601-6bd2-424d-a092-97f91faa0a13" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# Scenario&#xA;&#xA;## TL;DR&#xA;&#xA;I'm currently searching for a monitor for my Dell XPS 13 2014 running Ubuntu Gnome. This monitor gets used in my home-office which is really sensible for style/design of the contained furniture/things.&#xA;&#xA;## Longer Version&#xA;&#xA;I'm currently rebuilding my office at home. I need to mention that I'm really into the style and design of my workplace. I can't work where you just have black monitors, black whatever-mouse and a black whatever-keyboard. I need my desk to feature a well-thought-out design concept with defined colors, a desk lamp, little plants etc. &#xA;&#xA;The desk-design is currently defined with the primary colors white and pastel mint-green. Secondary &quot;color&quot; is &quot;wooden&quot;. Accent color is mainly pastel pink. &#xA;&#xA;A few items featured on my workplace will give you a feeling of what is going on:&#xA;&#xA;[![desk lamp][1]][1]&#xA;[![desk mat][2]][2]&#xA;[![mouse][3]][3]&#xA;&#xA;I have all the things in place but one thing which is missing is a monitor. My intention is to place it on my desk (obviously) and plug in my keyboard and mouse. &#xA;&#xA;In order to work with it I plug the video-cable in my mini-display-port and connect the USB hub to one of my ports. Voila I'm able to use my keyboard, mouse and monitor. &#xA;&#xA;# Specifications&#xA;&#xA;## Monitor&#xA;&#xA; - QHD&#xA; - 22 &quot; - 27 &quot;&#xA; - Height adjustable (VESA mount is an option)&#xA; - Possible colors: white, silver-grey, mint-green, wooden (&quot;not black&quot; as a minimum) &#xA; - (Active) USB hub with at least two ports (for mouse and keyboard)&#xA; - Should be compatible with my Laptop of course (specs beneath)&#xA;&#xA;## Laptop&#xA;&#xA; - Dell XPS 13 2014&#xA; - Intel HD 4400&#xA; - Mini Displayport&#xA; - Ubuntu Gnome latest LTS version&#xA;&#xA;## Budget&#xA;&#xA;Budget is not really an issue. Everything cheaper than 800 $ should be fine as long as it looks nice and features needed functionality.&#xA;&#xA;# Additional Notes&#xA;&#xA;A VESA mount would be fine. No issues with that. It just have too look neat. Not like a sci-fi-robot-arm :) &#xA;&#xA;Painting, framing, foiling or any other DIY action is absolutely legit as long as the outcome looks professional. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5gom.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf6Mm.jpg&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yM6cJm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49395" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13310" RevisionGUID="6a12e69f-c331-4ada-aa64-27bfecf95982" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I need suggestions for a demanding CPU watercooling solution - probably a suggestion of &quot;custom loop&quot; components. &#xA;&#xA;# Problem&#xA;&#xA;I just outgrew my 12 core overclocked CPU and upgraded it to an 18 core i9-10980XE. (I do a lot of very intense CPU work.) My Noctua NH-D15 can't handle the output, and tops out at about 4.1 GHz (overclocked) whereas most cores pushed individually can run as high as 4.7 GHz (if the cooling is adequate). So the cooler greatly limits what I can do with the CPU.&#xA;&#xA;I think I need a loop that can reduce the OC temps by about 25 C from those the Noctua can achieve (so that OC currently hitting 100C on the Noctua only hits about 75C on watercooling). I.e., reduce a delta-T of about 70 to a delta-T of about 45 (or ideally even less, under 40 C). &#xA;&#xA;That's a hell of a drop. It suggests I need custom loop not AIO, and probably good kit at that - a very good 360mm copper radiator, and a high flow rate pump. But it should be possible.&#xA;&#xA;# General info&#xA;&#xA;- **System:** i9-10980XE, Asus WS SAGE X299, 128 GB 3600 RAM, very basic old VGA card (not used for gaming), EVGA Supernova G2 1000W PSU, Samsung NVMe system+data SSDs. System runs 24/7 for weeks to months at a time (offline), so stability and not needing to interrupt often, matters.&#xA;- **Price/quality:** Price is not important, although &quot;cheapest possible&quot; is good. Quality, reliability and performance are key.&#xA;- **Kit vs. custom loop:** I am OK with kit or custom, but suspect I'll need to choose individual components. &#xA;- **Experience:** I've been building custom PCs and custom enclosures for a long time. I've never used water cooling before but I'm familiar with it; it doesn't scare me. &#xA;- **Leaks:** I am quite nervous of leaks. The pump/reservoir/radiator will be &quot;standalone&quot; outside the chassis, so if they leak or I move the computer on its side, it's safe. So it's only the CPU block and connectors that are a concern for leaks.&#xA;- **Loop length:** The external pump/reservoir/radiator means I need to allow a total loop length of up to 2.0m (2.5m max).&#xA;- **Noise:** Not especially worried about fan and pump noise as long as they don't sound like a howling gale. &#xA;&#xA;# Component criteria&#xA;&#xA;- **Radiator/pump/reservoir:** I expect I will need a very good (thick?) 360mm copper rad, and a large combined very high max flow rate durable pump-reservoir. &#xA;- **CPU block:** This is the one component able to leak inside the case. So I want it really well engineered for LGA-2066 heat flow and water connections, whatever way is absolute most sure to avoid leaks, since it will run 24/7. Happy to get a premium product, if it has functional benefits.&#xA;- **Fluid and tubing:** I don't care about aesthetics and looks. My kit is functional and quality, not &quot;pretty&quot;. So I would like a fluid and tubing that as little as possible causes sediment, degrades over time, etc. Would aim for flexible tubing with anti-kink. No preconceptions about ID/OD thickness.&#xA;- **Connections:** Must be very good and once tested initially, very hard to &quot;go wrong&quot;. I don't want to buy another £2000 CPU/motherboard/RAM here!&#xA;- **Redundancy/continual operation:** If the reservoir can't be topped up while in use, then I would consider a 2nd pump or reservoir in parallel, with shutoff valves, so I can top up one while the other is in 24/7 use. &#xA;- **Materials:** For the loop gneerally, whatever's needed to avoid sediment/plastic deposit and not have to maintain often. For the metal components, no &quot;mixed materials&quot; electrolytic contact with the water, so probably copper/brass not aluminium.&#xA;&#xA;# Existing recommendations&#xA;&#xA;I've been advised to look at EK for everything except the radiator, and get a thicker radiator from someone else who makes them, such as Thermaltake. But it's hard to find good reviews and advice.&#xA;&#xA;What are my options? Is my goal realistic? &#xA;&#xA;Help appreciated!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13110" RevisionGUID="21d91cc2-0ebf-48d2-960e-c5f0cca9d317" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I would personally go for ESP32. With WiFi &amp; BT for US $4 to 5. [Here](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808772590.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.50a177b27kSYIz) is one for less than $3, including P &amp; P.&#xA;&#xA;If you can afford $30, then you can get [2 @ ESP32 LoRo boards](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000025670342.html), where LoRa means Long Range and is about 15km, line of sight. That is just the first pair I found; I am sure that I bought a pair more cheaply. Those may cost more because then have a display.&#xA;&#xA;For $15 or less, you can get an [ESP32 with camera](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006265740.html). Some with Passive InfraRed detector, to knwo when a person stands in front of them (body heat, many not be 100% accurate). Some with microphone &amp; speaker, [$20 with housing](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000329886104.html).&#xA;&#xA;With that, you can make a great project, to replace the [Ring doorbell](https://eu.ring.com/). When someone rings your doorbell, you can view the camera, even video-conference, with your smartphone. This is on my list of projects to do, but I am a software guy, and you don't say if you prefer soft or hard-ware projects.&#xA;&#xA;Since I am not a hardware guy, I love the [Seeed Grove system](https://www.seeedstudio.com/grove.html) with about 300 sensors and motors, etc From about $2 to $20, which are Plug &amp; Play - no soldering required.&#xA;&#xA;If you like that idea, look at [M5Stack](https://m5stack.com/), which can be bought on their site, or [from Ali Express](https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;initiative_id=SB_20200323054618&amp;origin=y&amp;SearchText=m5stack).&#xA;&#xA;They also have a wrist strap, for wrist-mounted projects&#xA;&#xA;I bought a [Grove Connector GPS module for $15](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000494209347.html), which can be used for many projects. Just add imagination.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;----  &#xA;&#xA;I would not get ESP826, as the ESP32  replaces it, unless you have a special requirement, or don't need the WiFi / BT connectivity.  &#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;The only drawback is, like many MCUs, debugging is only by printing to the serial port. I could only find one ESP32 dev board with on board debugger, the [ESP-WROVER-KIT-VB ](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952455444.html). It costs $45v (ouch!), but has that on-board debugger, to allow you to set breakpoints and examine the call stack &amp; variables, which is  a ***must*** for me as a professional software developer.&#xA;&#xA;For an IDE, use [PlatformIO](https://platformio.org/) with [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com/).&#xA;&#xA;Costly, ***but*** it has a large display. Take a look at it [playing Doom](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb_JFDa0AIo) and tell me that you aren't impressed ;-)  [The code is on GitHub](https://github.com/espressif/esp32-doom)&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;I have already written more than I planned to, so please give us a budget and tell us what you want to do, especially if it is more soft or hard-ware based.&#xA;&#xA;----  &#xA;&#xA;If you value a debugger, the ST Micro boards are good. They are perhaps more &quot;professional&quot; than hobbyist, so slightly more expensive. The [STM32WB](https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32wb-series.html) has BT &amp; WiFi.&#xA;&#xA;Also, the [BBC Micro:Bit](https://microbit.org/) is about $10, with BT, but no WiFi and on-board debugger (I have a shield that accepts Grove Connectors).&#xA;&#xA;And that's before we get started with AdaFruit !!&#xA;&#xA;I will stop here in case you update your question ;-)&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOI9y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49397" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12952" RevisionGUID="42f031ae-e1de-40f3-8c33-a0cf8628f1d9" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="&gt; small company (around 20 employees)... small server... access to shared storage and sync outlook tasks/calendars... and maybe do some light processing on it&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; What sort of specs are recommended for running a Windows Server (mostly for Microsoft Exchange).&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;my first recommendation would be to talk to your boss, chief information officer, or president (depending on company) because today doing what you are asking is no longer a trivial matter, especially regarding data security, legal requirements, lawsuits, etc.  So you don't just want to build any old computer/server and have it wherever.  Talk to whoever would be held accountable for such a problem should it arise,&#xA;&#xA;that may then lead to a dedicated server room being made available, having locked door or badged access, where you can set up resources and have it functional and reliable... *reusing a nice gaming rig* is not professional.&#xA;&#xA;basically... workstations (i.e. your thought of gaming rig) are desktop pc's which will be limited to ~ 64gb or ram and are expected to be used by one person at a time.  A server can be the same hardware, but will be in a rack server form factor, hold greater than 64gb of ram, and allow for better networking capability, to allow reliable and better performance to run MS exchange mail server and provide a data share.&#xA;&#xA;you may want to look into NAS - network attached storage, which will be separate disks and hardware to provide data storage which would be separate from an MS exchange server; having one server do everything increases likelihood of everything not working one morning when something fails (and it will) so you have to plan all that out and understand what you actually need vs want vs budget.  For however small a company, you just don't throw a gaming rig together to allow the company to do business; if it needs to be &quot;cheap&quot; then you may want to rethink your business strategy.  You can find small business servers from DellEMC or HPE, you would call them tell them what you need and they will advise you on the type of hardware to be used, and you can always get refurbished/reconditioned if you are looking for *less expensive* equipment.&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12857" RevisionGUID="3865e09b-7c18-4c70-b1e3-3a816c909774" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I think the simplest solution would be to use something like this:&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;&#xA;Simply plug the USB connector into a 5V portable power source, or a wall adapter. The LED lights should detect if there's activity on the network. These sell for less than 10$ at most suppliers. &#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLH9Hm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12831" RevisionGUID="30d674ae-011f-47b1-89f4-6140d2192903" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I have long wanted a GPS receiver that is either integrated with an NTP server, or compatible with a device like a Raspberry PI, including PPS signals.&#xA;  &#xA;Until a few years ago, you could only go buy an integrated unit for $2000-$6000, including an oven controlled crystal.  While this is appropriate for a large enterprise server, I'm wanting one for home use.&#xA;&#xA;More recently, I have found $300 units.&#xA;&#xA;What I am looking for is a $15 to $35 (or maybe to $50) unit.  Any suggestions?&#xA;&#xA;# Edits: #&#xA;&#xA;The purpose here is to run a stratum 1 NTP server.  This would then provide time to all my computers.  I would like NTP precision of at least 15 (30 microseconds).   19 or 20 (2 or 1 microseconds) would be better.&#xA;&#xA;I am expecting I will have to assemble something with a Raspberry PI or Beagle Bone, but would prefer a prebuilt unit if anyone knows of one.&#xA;&#xA;Obviously, a serial interface will not get that precision, but the PPS interface can.  PPS is pulse per second, a once per second microsecond precise pulse usually connected to an interrupt on a host computer (or ignored if you don't care about time precision).  &#xA;&#xA;### Related rants: ###&#xA;It would be nice if adafruit hadn't decided to only support one expensive GPS.&#xA;&#xA;It would be nice if there were a SOC including a CPU and GPS, so the CPU could read the GPS time registers directly.   That might achieve an NTP precision of 26 (16 nanosecond or about 5 meters)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12621" RevisionGUID="61f3f1df-b17f-4a9f-baa6-82748d4f5a98" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I'm looking for laptops to buy. In my country,the best choices for a while are **`Dell G5 5590`** and **`Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-52`**.So, having any experience using these brands' products I need to know how dual boot system will run in each of these laptops.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;*The following questions interest me too so I leave their here by its [importance][1]*:&#xA;&#xA;  `Will one or both be unbootable after setting as dual boot( Windows and Linux)? After installation successful, what are the possible issues which I'll deal with?`&#xA;&#xA;**Ps**: take a look at the page 6 of the Samsung's Odyssey manual if its relevant to you and leave a comment about it.&#xA;______________________________________________&#xA;So, which of these two laptops is **better to run Linux distros setting multiple boot**? &#xA;&#xA;Please,let me know what are your experiences using Linux alongside Windows in that specific laptops models.&#xA;&#xA;**NOTICE**:I want to buy one of the two models I've mentioned.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/odyssey#manualsDownloads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="61defae0-cfc9-4573-bdb1-38fa0e4e5642" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The task sounds simple the aim is to send an ʜᴅᴍɪ signal from computer to large ᴛᴠ where the 2 can’t fit in the same room at the same time…&#xA;&#xA;There’s 7 meters air gap between the 2 devices… and a concrete floor.&#xA;&#xA;# What I searched&#xA;&#xA;I heard a 60Ghz radio solution can’t be used in this situation because it can be almost stopped by a paper sheet.&#xA;&#xA;I heard that the bandwidth of 5Ghz device would allow transmitting the signal so I bought an ʜᴘ Wireless ʜᴅᴍɪ transmitter operating on that band : and the compression is so high that the quality is definitely better on 640×480×16 ᴄʀᴛ.  &#xA;**Maybe a 5Ghz transmitter on that band would be able to transmit the video in a way which can be considered lossless and that I just didn’t found the right device.**&#xA;&#xA;Then one would argue to just use a wired solution. However with the distance to reach the stair and hallway what is 7 meter radio gap becomes a 35 meters wire. Of course, with such a long wire the quality is just as bad as with wireless.&#xA;&#xA;How to solve this ? As the ᴛᴠ runs on Webos and supports 802.11 Wi‑Fi with 270Mb/s real speed (which would be enough to send the video signal over X11 but with the problem the program I want to use require Vulkan or Direct3D12) a software solution would be OK.  &#xA;There’s definitely must be a way : with ᴅᴠʙ‑ᴛ I can record 14 channels all at 1080p30Hz at the same time (with a single Tuner) with almost no compression and a frequency well below 1Gz." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49402" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11495" RevisionGUID="3cbc29cd-3cb8-4d4e-9490-beee1759b84e" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="The top three search results for “windows hello webcam requirements” claim that you need a special infrared, 3D camera:&#xA;&#xA;&gt; If Windows Hello doesn’t work, chances are your hardware isn’t compatible. That means your system lacks iris scanning, fingerprint scanning, or a near-infrared 3D camera.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/what-is-windows-hello/)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&gt; A regular webcam will not work with Windows Hello. Windows 10 features Windows Hello, which provides new ways to authentication using biometrics including facial recognition.  Since this is essentially 3-d detection,  a camera with a specialized illuminated infrared camera is required.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://www.itprotoday.com/windows-10/q-what-required-use-windows-hello-facial-recognition-logon-windows-10)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&gt; No, common cameras like Logitech C920 does not meet requirement.&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Windows Hello face authentication utilizes a camera specially configured for near infrared (IR) imaging to authenticate and unlock Windows devices as well as unlock your Microsoft Passport. Just as you mentioned, “you must have devices with integrated special infrared (IR) sensors and software”.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;[Source](https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/9b221801-472d-4b5e-a821-22910e4d1c51/camera-requirements-for-windows-hello-facial-recognition?forum=win10itprosecurity)&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&#xA;Searching specifically for such camera module for Raspberry Pi, or even a simple 3D camera, gives nothing. Nor could I find the list of compatible camera devices anyway—there are just lots of pages from three years ago, promising such a list and giving a dead link.&#xA;&#xA;What I found, however, are the projects made by other persons who, as you, wanted to play with Windows Hello, and they all used an external USB camera instead of a Raspberry Pi camera module.&#xA;&#xA;[Here's such example](https://www.hackster.io/windows-iot/windows-iot-facial-recognition-door-e087ce) which relies on Microsoft Lifecam 3000.&#xA;&#xA;Although I haven't a definitive proof, I think there is either no such camera module, or if there is, it is not very popular, and thus won't have enough support to work seamlessly with Windows Hello. If I were you, I'd buy one of the compatible USB cameras instead, even if it means (1) wasting an USB port, (2) losing the warranty as soon as you remove the electronics from the case, and (3) spending much more money then needed." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49403" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11251" RevisionGUID="7cfbf39e-43bb-45e7-8c31-b3ae2e86b826" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="# [LG 43UD79][1] #&#xA;&#xA;This is a monitor/TV that supports 4 HDMI inputs. It can display a single input or all of them simultaneously.&#xA;&#xA;[![LG 43UD79 4 input][2]][1]&#xA;&#xA;It has multiple layout options and comes with a remote. There is a [video where you can see this feature in action](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42JvQnzOYSc).&#xA;&#xA;[![LG 43UD79 4 input layouts and remote][3]][1]&#xA;&#xA;It has been extensively reviewed:&#xA;&#xA;- [Dave Lee](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vv1W0C920oE)&#xA;- [Bitwit](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPrZzu2XcAU)&#xA;- [Linus Tech Tips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kYrQ-LOiXE)&#xA;- [Unbox Therapy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_7JKVuC9Bw)&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-43UD79-B-4k-uhd-led-monitor&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/36FBG.jpg&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJcFT.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49404" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="11188" RevisionGUID="df97a442-8f09-49b3-b6f3-f80c98d55aca" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="https://www.lindy.co.uk/usb-thunderbolt-c4/4-port-usb-3-1-gen-2-type-c-hub-p11211&#xA;&#xA;&gt; Provides 4 USB 3.1 Gen 2 SuperSpeed+ ports with data rates up to 10Gbps&#xA;&gt;&#xA;&gt; Allows connection of 2 Type A and 2 Type C peripherals&#xA;&#xA;https://www.iogear.com/product/GUH3C22P/ is not so explicit but it does say 10 gbit/s.&#xA;&#xA;Coolgear has tons https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-c-products/usb-c-hubs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13246" RevisionGUID="60bbdba9-1ca5-4ac0-8807-771c195e133a" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:29:16.280" UserId="-1" Comment="Commonmark migration" Text="I found some Canton passive speakers and connected them with an audio jack cable to my PC but nothing happened. &#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xA;I did some research and found out that these are passive speakers and they need an amplifier. &#xA;&#xA;Then I looked for an amplifier on Amazon and found this:&#xA;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xA;&#xA;I thought amplifiers were big chunks so I am not sure this little thing does the work of the middleman to play music from my laptop to the speakers.&#xA;&#xA;The amp Amazon link: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01LY7RYQO/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=verst%C3%A4rker&amp;qid=1586534369&amp;sr=8-10&#xA;&#xA;Do you know if that amp will work and what else do I need to make this work?&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJwTt.jpg&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/r792r.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13657" RevisionGUID="8906eb2f-6dd8-4713-a20c-53289984bf91" CreationDate="2020-06-18T12:14:14.147" UserId="10273" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I like my Asus router RT-ac59u, because of the openVPN feature. To be more specific, I use the VPN as client. not Server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I have a tp-link that deals better with quotas.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In Asus you can limit quota per device (bandwidth - not auto) fig 1; or use auto. quota (QoS), but it is not per device, it its per usage type (download etc. [in some routers this has two branches traditional or Adaptive QoS ]). So it simply does not work well for several devices (fig 2). (those two modes [Bandwidth vs QoS] do not work at the same time) [asus emulator](http://demoui.asus.com/QoS_EZQoS.asp),   [QoS](https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1010951/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, the Asus has quotas per device (Bandwidth), but they do not adapt to the current situation (number of active devices, etc) (fig 1), or, the automatic system (QoS) that does not work well (one device can get most of the bandwidth in practice) (fig 2). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In tp-link, by contrast, you set a min. and max. for any or all devices (IPs), and it guarantees you an uniform distribution of your bandwidth. But I have not OpenVpn in that router. (fig 3) [tp-link emulator](https://emulator.tp-link.com/Emulator_TL-WR841NV14(US)/index.htm)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows a model with both characteristics (tp-link quota and openvpn as client)? The tp-link Archer AX1500 won't work. Does not have VPN (Openvpn) as Client, only server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related post: https://community.tp-link.com/en/home/forum/topic/168500&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 1. Asus per device (Bandwidth limiter). If only one device, it would be unnecessarily limited&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 2. Asus per type (traditional or adaptive QoS). If several devices, one of them can monopolize most of the bandwidth&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Figure 3. TP-Link. Min. and Max. limits, works better for several devices (in my small bandwidth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCT4D.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8Ks5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/96IaX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13663" RevisionGUID="1c6e91f1-498c-4d76-bdc6-773cb9c5bc10" CreationDate="2020-06-18T14:06:32.850" UserId="15974" Text="I'm looking for a laptop for my wife to use for home use.  She primarily needs to browse the web and print documents.  I'd like to find a laptop at an excellent price-point that will last a long time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically:&#xD;&#xA;* I'd like the total cost of the machine to be under $300&#xD;&#xA;* I'd like the machine to last at least five years, if not ten or twenty.&#xD;&#xA;* It should have enough ram to comfortably support Windows 10 and any forced windows upgrades in the future.  I'm thinking 8GB would be enough for this, but I don't really know.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard that refurbished industrial brands should work well for this, so I've been considering a refurbished Dell Latitude.  Others have mentioned that Lenovo Thinkpads are a good choice, but I've heard  too many reports of those failing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: What brand do you recommend, and are there reputable sellers who will cover warranty returns if, e.g., the battery fails within 90 days?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49410" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13663" RevisionGUID="1c6e91f1-498c-4d76-bdc6-773cb9c5bc10" CreationDate="2020-06-18T14:06:32.850" UserId="15974" Text="Durable, low-cost, browsing laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49411" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13663" RevisionGUID="1c6e91f1-498c-4d76-bdc6-773cb9c5bc10" CreationDate="2020-06-18T14:06:32.850" UserId="15974" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49424" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13670" RevisionGUID="36702be3-22e1-4809-b290-27eb69c34d1d" CreationDate="2020-06-19T08:10:58.213" UserId="15978" Text="This might a little late, but I was searching for the same thing and came across these which were SPD-26666 out of the box:  &#xD;&#xA;VENGEANCE® RGB PRO 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 AMD Ryzen Memory Kit — Black&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-PRO-RGB-Black/p/CMW32GX4M2Z3200C16#tab-tech-specs&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They can be bought on Amazon!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49435" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13500" RevisionGUID="286b13d8-6c0a-4508-ba14-acb1bb21fc57" CreationDate="2020-06-19T18:04:45.443" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13672" RevisionGUID="c149708a-87e0-460e-9948-a029c78a8fa9" CreationDate="2020-06-19T19:48:34.253" UserId="15981" Text="Here's my scenario:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a home gaming PC connected to two 27&quot; monitors. It also has a Razer Widowmaker keyboard and a Razer mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have a work laptop. This laptop has one HDMI input and one USB-C/Thunderbolt input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to find a dock or KVM switch type device that will allow me to switch the dual monitors and peripherals between both devices. So I'd like to be able to have my home PC and my work laptop both hooked up to this, and I can then switch between which computer the devices and dual monitors are using for a seamless transition to working on my home PC to working on my work laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I considered just buying a regular dock, but I get a new work laptop every few years (no gaurantee of the model I'd get) and I know universal docks are generally sucky, so I don't want to drop all that money on investing in a specific dock if it might not work for me in a few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also found some KVM switching devices on Amazon such as this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083J4NMZM/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza), for which of course I'd have to buy an HDMI to USB-C adapter, but some of the verbiage makes me concerned that it wouldn't support a more advanced keyboard like mine (especially since it has a dual-USB plug).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My ultimate fallback plan was just to have a separate HDMI switch and USB switch to use, but I'd be nice if I'd be able to have an all-in-one device like the KVM switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know of any products like this that exist? Or in reading the description about the KVM switch, would that work for my purposes?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49439" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13672" RevisionGUID="c149708a-87e0-460e-9948-a029c78a8fa9" CreationDate="2020-06-19T19:48:34.253" UserId="15981" Text="KVM or Dock Switching Device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49440" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13672" RevisionGUID="c149708a-87e0-460e-9948-a029c78a8fa9" CreationDate="2020-06-19T19:48:34.253" UserId="15981" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49445" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13344" RevisionGUID="b6918df6-f9f2-432f-982a-c409843fca1d" CreationDate="2020-06-19T22:00:30.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49446" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="4059120b-85b8-43ac-b420-eae3d6fc8fa3" CreationDate="2020-06-19T23:01:30.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49460" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13301" RevisionGUID="bc019ea3-1113-4fee-bd9e-495bfd6ddbfb" CreationDate="2020-06-20T00:02:05.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49461" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13674" RevisionGUID="6ff4ad69-4396-400b-ad31-add488097dd0" CreationDate="2020-06-20T04:05:51.120" UserId="15983" Text="With *working* I mean GNU/Linux temperatures should not exceed Windows' ones by 10 C° with [`low`](https://wiki.gentoo.org/wiki/Radeon#Power_consumption_when_using_multi-head_.2F_multi-monitor) performance profile.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferably powersaving support over multi monitor configurations should be present into free driver." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49462" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13674" RevisionGUID="6ff4ad69-4396-400b-ad31-add488097dd0" CreationDate="2020-06-20T04:05:51.120" UserId="15983" Text="Cheapest (jun 2020) discrete GPU with working powersaving on GNU/Linux multihead" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49463" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13674" RevisionGUID="6ff4ad69-4396-400b-ad31-add488097dd0" CreationDate="2020-06-20T04:05:51.120" UserId="15983" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;power&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49478" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13678" RevisionGUID="0016ee09-196d-44b0-a356-dc62fa1646f1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T16:02:53.707" UserId="15987" Text="I'm using a 43&quot; monitor (stands 62 centimetres tall off the desk) and want a dual monitor arm to go above it, but many brands are too short. What dual monitor arm/mount can lift the two screens high enough above the 43&quot; monitor I have, so that they're not obstructed?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49479" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13678" RevisionGUID="0016ee09-196d-44b0-a356-dc62fa1646f1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T16:02:53.707" UserId="15987" Text="Which dual monitor mount/arm to go over a 43&quot; monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49480" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13678" RevisionGUID="0016ee09-196d-44b0-a356-dc62fa1646f1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T16:02:53.707" UserId="15987" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49481" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="f0395c9f-f309-439e-a475-04f55f0407d7" CreationDate="2020-06-20T17:00:55.120" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13680" RevisionGUID="edb70e20-7fce-4217-a7bb-afbf83600fca" CreationDate="2020-06-21T03:22:30.570" UserId="2065" Text="A key feature you need for this that many of the cheapest solutions don't offer is full isolation between the mains input and the USB port. I did a search on the term &quot;USB multimeter with isolation&quot; and came up with the following product that I've never used but I think might fit the bill:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Hantek 365B][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It runs at $US105 from Amazon and from the [user guide][2] measures up to 600 VAC with 100 mV resolution. It uses the USB CDC class rather than HID and if you wanted to roll your own software instead of using the included software I found the following project on GitHub that you could base it on:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Linux Software for Hantek 365B Datalogger][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Like most multimeters it has banana plug inputs so you'd need to buy shrouded banana plugs with an appropriate voltage rating and securely terminate them onto a mains lead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://hantek.com.cn/products/detail/130&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: http://www.hantek.com/Product/HT365/HT365_Manual.PDF&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://github.com/mp035/hantek-365" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49493" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12542" RevisionGUID="e832ded2-4e74-4496-9d4c-c224467520ea" CreationDate="2020-06-21T11:03:30.417" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49495" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13518" RevisionGUID="00b01958-6248-4c30-8261-3fd96a72c251" CreationDate="2020-06-21T22:07:50.793" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49498" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13682" RevisionGUID="d2c13dd9-e641-46e8-89d5-38e5b5a1617f" CreationDate="2020-06-22T08:31:42.027" UserId="4972" Text="So I'm looking to share my camera/microphone between a PC and a Mac. In particular, I'm using Logitech C922 and an XLR microphone connected to Focusrite Scarlet Solo 3rd gen, using a Cloudlifter CL-1, which I'm only mentioning because it draws 48V phantom power from the interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to share this setup between a PC and a Mac, and a device that came recommended was ATEN US3342. Looking at it, this seems like a great device for connecting two computers, as well as sharing &quot;low bandwidth&quot; devices like keyboards, mice on printers. The cost of the device itself isn't that much of an issue, but the fact that it takes my interface and webcam, and boils it down to one USB C port worries me. I guess I'd be much happier with a device that does the exact same thing, but occupies two usb ports on the host machine, would that make more sense?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's also very important that both systems understand there's two devices, rather than one hub." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49499" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13682" RevisionGUID="d2c13dd9-e641-46e8-89d5-38e5b5a1617f" CreationDate="2020-06-22T08:31:42.027" UserId="4972" Text="USB Switch for sensitive peripherals?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49500" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13682" RevisionGUID="d2c13dd9-e641-46e8-89d5-38e5b5a1617f" CreationDate="2020-06-22T08:31:42.027" UserId="4972" Text="&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49512" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13685" RevisionGUID="7b8373f7-d19a-4378-8efc-1e6bd74c13f6" CreationDate="2020-06-22T21:00:56.680" UserId="15994" Text="I am expecting input device to be a smartphone. Maybe some external sensor can be used to get real time temperature but I am looking for a complete product that I can use/purchase.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The temperature I am looking to get is from a human. So the device has to have the ability to acquire that value and send it to a cloud service. That cloud service has to be able to provide me that temperature value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please advice." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49513" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13685" RevisionGUID="7b8373f7-d19a-4378-8efc-1e6bd74c13f6" CreationDate="2020-06-22T21:00:56.680" UserId="15994" Text="Is there a product that can get body temperature of a person and allow me to get that value using an API or any other integration in real time?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49514" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13685" RevisionGUID="7b8373f7-d19a-4378-8efc-1e6bd74c13f6" CreationDate="2020-06-22T21:00:56.680" UserId="15994" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;api&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13688" RevisionGUID="7f3ca0b2-e405-4063-887d-ecf06ca494de" CreationDate="2020-06-23T12:39:06.250" UserId="15999" Text="I'm looking for a device that can record GPS coordinate and save them to SD card, without the need for SIM card. I need this so I can tag my photos on laptop when I get home. GPS for my camer is too big, I want something I can put in my backpack and forget and only need to charge it once in a day (it would be nice if the batter last few days).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only devices I've seen are GPS navigation with a map and spy devices or key,cat,doc,seniors localizators with sim card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideal whould be device (small computer) that save single file each day to SD card. that can be read from SD card and processed. I already have script in python that tag my photos based on GPX  or CSV files created using Android app called GPS logger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know any devices like this? I have GPS in my phone but I always forget to turn it on when I'm shooting photos, because GPS consume more power and I can't have it always turn on. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49531" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13688" RevisionGUID="7f3ca0b2-e405-4063-887d-ecf06ca494de" CreationDate="2020-06-23T12:39:06.250" UserId="15999" Text="GPS device that save location on SD card without the need of SIM card" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49532" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13688" RevisionGUID="7f3ca0b2-e405-4063-887d-ecf06ca494de" CreationDate="2020-06-23T12:39:06.250" UserId="15999" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;sd-card&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13689" RevisionGUID="3b82f659-fe89-4e51-8542-c57fe9f9f5dd" CreationDate="2020-06-23T14:15:46.300" UserId="15883" Text="I have personally used an Arduino with a [GPS module][1] an [SD Card module][2] to plot GPS coordinates. This is a bit of a DIY project and requires some programming, but given your StackOverflow reputation this should not be an issue for you at all and has the added benefit of being customisable to your exact needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Arduino can be powered using a powerbank which, depending on the size, would easily last more than a day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below is a map of the route which I took, the blue line is the path I walked and the red line is the GPS points read from the SD card - as you can see the results are quite accurate for an inexpensive system.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/gps-chips-gps-modules/9084085?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Computing_%26_Peripherals_Whoop-_-GPS%20Chips%20%26%20GPS%20Modules_Whoop-_-9084085&amp;matchtype=&amp;aud-827186183886:pla-335746249196&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpUS_Rb8vu6n6SVYof9by9xOfxTJ3j_rWSQZTexxtgyrwIY-fYI9Xa0aAiYpEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Adafruit/254?qs=GURawfaeGuAkwqCF4BmPzA%3D%3D&amp;vip=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpUB6pwW7tLGcliZbPF3GTVInCWD9KrZjl2jzG13OSDfclU97ou4oSsaAln7EALw_wcB&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/17fWA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49546" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12322" RevisionGUID="f7cc20bd-1865-4f31-8a45-7b25750d0b6e" CreationDate="2020-06-24T06:39:58.693" UserId="1410" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking for a cheap, programmable drone, for use in UK, to use in a Minimal Viable Product for a system that will later use more highly spec’ed drones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to accept a programmed flight plan (*)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Needs to carry an ESP32 (approx. 10g) and a coin cell battery (2.9g), possibly an altimeter of GPS sensor (I would guess 5g, max 10g)  &#xD;&#xA;•	Long flight time is not important, but I would like 5, preferably 10 minutes  &#xD;&#xA;•	Outdoor use, not indoor, although I can live with being restricted to calm days  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(*) I am not sure if UK law requires a human drone operator, rather than a programmed flight plan. If that’s the law, I will comply, but I have a strong preference for programming a series of waypoints. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update] do I need to be licensed to fly a drone in the UK?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13695" RevisionGUID="3b284572-aef5-4542-b1ca-f6a697b7fac3" CreationDate="2020-06-25T20:21:59.743" UserId="16010" Text="I've been looking for the same thing.  The major challenge is finding a good camera on a current feature phone.  The best option for that seems to be a refurbished Sony Ericsson Cybershot (the C905, say) or (since its OS is unsupported, basically turning it into a feature phone) a refurbished Nokia 808 Pureview.  The Sony Ericsson C905 is readily available on Ebay, presumably because many more were produced than ended up being sold as smartphones took over.  However, both phones only support 3G, so if you're on a 4G-only network you're out of luck with them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13695" RevisionGUID="f1b75f4d-b077-4264-a338-b0a1c7ba58fa" CreationDate="2020-06-25T22:16:50.490" UserId="16010" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for the same thing.  The major challenge is finding a good camera on a current feature phone.  The best option for that seems to be a refurbished Sony Ericsson Cybershot (the C905, say) or (since its OS is unsupported, basically turning it into a feature phone) a refurbished Nokia 808 Pureview or Nokia N8.  The C905 and N8 are readily available on Ebay, presumably because many more were produced than ended up being sold as smartphones took over.  All these phones only support 3G, so if you're on a 4G-only network you're out of luck with them." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49582" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13533" RevisionGUID="32785b07-66aa-42a4-a817-ffb0b973cbf5" CreationDate="2020-06-26T00:00:32.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="2856bdf6-d026-4edc-8374-161a5936a709" CreationDate="2020-06-26T10:29:40.907" UserId="16003" Text="I have two notebooks, one is Win10 PC (HDMI), second is Macbook Pro 15 Retina 2015 (HDMI, and two Thunderbolt 2's port).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please recommend: one big monitor (30&quot;, 32&quot; or biggest) with the ability to simultaneously connect two laptops, so that I can either switch between sources, or work in parallel (picture in picture)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="2856bdf6-d026-4edc-8374-161a5936a709" CreationDate="2020-06-26T10:29:40.907" UserId="16003" Text="One big monitor for two notebooks (Win and Mac)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49586" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="2856bdf6-d026-4edc-8374-161a5936a709" CreationDate="2020-06-26T10:29:40.907" UserId="16003" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49587" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13695" RevisionGUID="be9c50f5-464c-4227-a4e3-a95909ab64b7" CreationDate="2020-06-26T16:05:50.680" UserId="16010" Comment="added 881 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for the same thing.  The major challenge is finding a good camera on a current feature phone.  The best option seems to be camera phones from around 2009-2011, like a refurbished Sony Ericsson Cybershot (the C905 or C903, say) or (since the OS is unsupported, basically turning them into feature phones) a refurbished Nokia 808, N8, or N86.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The C905, C903, N8 and N86 are readily available on Ebay, presumably because many more were produced than ended up being sold as smartphones took over.  All these phones only support 3G, so if you're on a 4G-only network you're out of luck with them.  For 3G, you'll also generally have to ask the seller if they have the North American version with HSDPA 850/1900 or the international version with HSDPA 2100.  Sometimes sellers don't know, don't care, or don't get back to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the picture quality on these phones is great, the video capabilities of these phones are poor by today's standards, at 240p, 320p or 480p.  Only the N8 will get you 720p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that phones like this aren't available now because a good camera is expensive, whether or not a phone is attached.  I don't think there has ever been a high-quality digital camera or camera phone sold for less than a few hundred dollars new.  The number of people who want a feature phone and are willing to spend a few hundred dollars on it to also get a great camera are probably few and far between now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49593" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="387d2a5c-8c64-4f63-947d-77fa735b51e8" CreationDate="2020-06-26T17:04:35.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49594" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13695" RevisionGUID="d13f65e8-2eef-42c7-a1f7-46c7d5d8c993" CreationDate="2020-06-26T17:34:02.613" UserId="16010" Comment="deleted 9 characters in body" Text="I've been looking for the same thing.  The major challenge is finding a good camera on a current feature phone.  The best option seems to be camera phones from around 2009-2011, like a refurbished Sony Ericsson Cybershot (the C905 or C903, say) or (since the OS is unsupported, basically turning them into feature phones) a refurbished Nokia 808, N8, or N86.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The C905, C903, N8 and N86 are readily available on Ebay, presumably because many more were produced than ended up being sold as smartphones took over.  All these phones only support 3G, so if you're on a 4G-only network you're out of luck with them.  For 3G, you'll also generally have to ask the seller if they have the North American version with HSDPA 850/1900 or the international version with HSDPA 2100.  Sometimes sellers don't know, don't care, or don't get back to you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While the picture quality on these phones is great, the video capabilities of these phones are poor by today's standards, at 240p, 320p or 480p.  Only the N8 will get you 720p.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I suspect that phones like this aren't available now because a good camera is expensive, whether or not a phone is attached.  I don't think there has ever been a high-quality digital camera or camera phone sold for less than a few hundred dollars new.  The number of people who are willing to spend a few hundred dollars on a feature phone to get a great camera with it are probably few and far between now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49595" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13538" RevisionGUID="054f6f01-e27d-4f99-ac12-f0a50c76a1b8" CreationDate="2020-06-26T18:05:35.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49596" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="717e86b6-6876-4c60-a4ed-bea4bc4c5195" CreationDate="2020-06-26T21:00:14.190" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49597" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="16cc7943-643f-4875-823f-1d1718ca9ca0" CreationDate="2020-06-26T22:04:10.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49606" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13701" RevisionGUID="cc9dfbc5-3d53-4260-81ef-3dccf186b383" CreationDate="2020-06-27T11:23:07.367" UserId="9587" Text="Samsung's 34 inch WQHD monitors like C34H890 are great for work, they have great picture and text quality, the support Picture-in-Picture and they are 21:9, so when you have two sources side-by-side, you get something close to 4:3. I have a similar monitor that I use in the same setup (Viotek GN34C), which is cheaper. It has an HDMI, DP and DVI input, but Samsung 34 inch monitors have HDMI, DP and USB-C/DP input, so you should be able to use them with your laptops." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49610" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12072" RevisionGUID="5cbdfb45-0b50-4231-97d8-76d165e9e134" CreationDate="2020-06-27T15:05:45.580" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49612" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11853" RevisionGUID="4d057db8-313f-47eb-a364-5173c1345bc1" CreationDate="2020-06-27T19:03:40.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13704" RevisionGUID="fd17aaf2-955a-4901-a222-3fdf9c9152f5" CreationDate="2020-06-27T22:41:11.857" UserId="16019" Text="I would like to connect one USB Headset to two separate computers, hearing the audio of both at the same time. USB Switches exist, however they only allow one computer to control the headset at a time. It most certainly needs to be a special device that knows how to handle sound data and mixes it from two different sources. Does something like this already exist? If possible, buying one is the preferred option however I may also invest some time and tinker it with a raspberry pi if some tutorial for this exists." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13704" RevisionGUID="fd17aaf2-955a-4901-a222-3fdf9c9152f5" CreationDate="2020-06-27T22:41:11.857" UserId="16019" Text="Connect one USB headset to two devices, playing both sounds simultaneously" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13704" RevisionGUID="fd17aaf2-955a-4901-a222-3fdf9c9152f5" CreationDate="2020-06-27T22:41:11.857" UserId="16019" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49622" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13674" RevisionGUID="d3601a2b-e0c7-4c54-bcf6-cbdafdc5ebcc" CreationDate="2020-06-28T04:47:01.973" UserId="15983" Comment="without spaces between GNU and Linux the answer does not get correctly indexed when searching just &quot;linux gpu powersaving multihead&quot;" Text="Cheapest (jun 2020) discrete GPU with working powersaving on GNU / Linux multihead" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49654" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13710" RevisionGUID="5ac36520-25ee-40ad-90a8-994c370f073c" CreationDate="2020-06-28T17:38:01.663" UserId="16025" Text="Thanks for this BTW. I had a similar situation: DisplayPort ports on computers, DisplayPort switch, DisplayPort monitor. And of course, the windows jumping around every time I switched the monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried and tried to find a pass-through EDID adapter for DP to no avail. All I could find were headless plugs meant to fool some server's GPU that it was attached to a monitor. So I tried to duplicate your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with different hardware, but I also took it a step further. Since I wanted to keep my existing DP switch, I brought the HDMI back to DP before reaching the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, it's computer DP -&gt; DP-to-HDMI converter -&gt; HDMI EDID pass-through adapter -&gt; HDMI-to-DP converter -&gt; DP switch -&gt; monitor. I'm not running 4K, but it works fine at 2560 x 1440. And now the windows stay where they are during the monitor switch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49655" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="53c1dc00-3373-4dd6-82cc-d9293209d13f" CreationDate="2020-06-28T21:20:58.003" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/708/alternative-for-asus-eee-pc-that-supports-gnu-linux-out-of-the-box" />
  <row Id="49656" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="a4e9da70-f331-4409-9708-c8ed96ec27ac" CreationDate="2020-06-28T18:51:59.057" UserId="16026" Text="Until about 10 years ago, Asus used to build a series of cheap, lightweight laptop called EEE PC, which later got discontinued. I am looking for something similar in terms of price, but with more power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any cheap (&lt; $150), ultraportable laptop that completely supports GNU/Linux operating systems (no wifi/graphics driver issues), has at least 4 gb ram, and 10-12 inch display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I primarily intend to use it for software development, web browsing, and reading PDF documents.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have found GPD Pocket, but it's screen is really small (7 inch) for reading/multitasking, and it costs about $600. I was looking for something cheaper. I feel that something may already be available, because there are lots of mobile devices with about 4 gb ram available under $150, and the technology is not too different (I am okay with an ARM laptop)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49657" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="a4e9da70-f331-4409-9708-c8ed96ec27ac" CreationDate="2020-06-28T18:51:59.057" UserId="16026" Text="Alternative for Asus EEE PC that supports GNU/Linux out of the box?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49658" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="a4e9da70-f331-4409-9708-c8ed96ec27ac" CreationDate="2020-06-28T18:51:59.057" UserId="16026" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49659" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="edd50d39-24ff-4f68-9566-1568e6cf99c6" CreationDate="2020-06-29T03:08:45.140" UserId="16026" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49660" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="8fc7e90d-ce18-4cd5-b650-f8a3f04fcb69" CreationDate="2020-06-29T08:37:37.727" UserId="16026" Comment="edited body" Text="Until about 10 years ago, Asus used to build a series of cheap, lightweight laptop called EEE PC, which later got discontinued. I am looking for something similar in terms of price, but with more power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any cheap (&lt; $150), ultraportable laptop which completely support GNU/Linux operating systems (no wifi/graphics driver issues), has at least 4 gb ram, and 10-12 inch display?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I primarily intend to use it for software development, web browsing, and reading PDF documents.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, I have found GPD Pocket, but it's screen is really small (7 inch) for reading/multitasking, and it costs about $600. I was looking for something cheaper. I feel that something may already be available, because there are lots of mobile devices with about 4 gb ram available under $150, and the technology is not too different (I am okay with an ARM laptop)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13713" RevisionGUID="7d225ed7-846d-41f5-b30e-d222c20f8fd6" CreationDate="2020-06-29T16:32:08.460" UserId="4546" Text="I'm looking for a US wall-plug charger which supports Qualcomm Quick Charging 3.0 (QC 3.0) or later  The trouble is that while there a re many chargers with one QC 3.0 port, and other 5V 2.1A ports, I need multiple QC 3.0 ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the requirements:&#xD;&#xA;*The charger must...*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - be compatible with US plugs&#xD;&#xA; - have at least 2 QC 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA; - be able to put out power equal to the number of QC3.0 ports * 24 watts&#xD;&#xA; - have the option to be shipped to at least the lower 48 US states.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*It would be nice if the charger could...*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Have 4 QC3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA; - be under 75$ US &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is no preference to whether the charger uses USB C or USB A, nor is there a preference to whether the charger is corded or direct plug.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The closest thing I found is the following, but I  would highly prefer a 4-port charger: &#xD;&#xA;[dual port QC 3.0 charger][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Chargers-Charger-Adapter-Charging-Delivery/dp/B07TV3ST69/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49667" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13713" RevisionGUID="7d225ed7-846d-41f5-b30e-d222c20f8fd6" CreationDate="2020-06-29T16:32:08.460" UserId="4546" Text="What multi-port wall USB-chargers exist which support QC 3.0?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49668" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13713" RevisionGUID="7d225ed7-846d-41f5-b30e-d222c20f8fd6" CreationDate="2020-06-29T16:32:08.460" UserId="4546" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13714" RevisionGUID="5699cb72-5cf5-432e-b2d9-1fca86d7d16c" CreationDate="2020-06-29T17:08:51.743" UserId="6407" Text="Roughly the opposite of a USB hub, made possible by the application-specific details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a digital audio mixer that, in addition to the analog I/O, also offers 18 channels each direction on USB 2.0 as a &quot;digital patchbay&quot; of sorts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to connect several different computers to it without using the analog inputs, and give each computer its own unique stereo pair in each direction.  Is there a device that can go between and make that happen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 USB 2.0 host, to talk to the 18-channel sound card.&#xD;&#xA; - 2 to 9 USB devices, as copies of the sound card that the host sees, but with 2 channels each instead of 18, and whatever other changes that that requires to the descriptors.&#xD;&#xA; - Map/patch each USB device's channels to its own set of USB host channels with no overlap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps better from a functional standpoint than modifying a given set of descriptors, I could go into the mixer's settings and set the sound card to 2-channel mode which is known to work, and then clone it, so that each computer thinks it's connecting to the 2-channel mode of that card.  Then set the mixer back to 18 channels on USB, while the go-between routes each odd-even pair to a different computer's 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it makes a difference, this 18-channel sound card only supports 32-bit integer, little-endian (as if endian-ness matters for a direct passthrough), at either 48kHz or 44.1kHz to match the entire mixer's sample rate.  The USB host doesn't get to choose; it just is what it is, based on the mixer's setting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49670" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13714" RevisionGUID="5699cb72-5cf5-432e-b2d9-1fca86d7d16c" CreationDate="2020-06-29T17:08:51.743" UserId="6407" Text="Share a many-channel USB sound card between several stereo computers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49671" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13714" RevisionGUID="5699cb72-5cf5-432e-b2d9-1fca86d7d16c" CreationDate="2020-06-29T17:08:51.743" UserId="6407" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="60048a23-c663-47fa-9580-27792425f6aa" CreationDate="2020-06-30T10:34:13.637" UserId="1410" Comment="added 78 characters in body" Text="So, I just found [Papyr](https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/02/06/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Raytac MDBT50 module with Nordic nRF52840 BLE/802.15.4 SoC&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     1.54 inch 200x200 pixel red/black/white epaper display - GDEW0154Z04&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     CR2477 coin cell holder&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Micro USB (device)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     RGB LED&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     NFC (PCB) antenna&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Push button&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     USB/Battery power switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Extra GPIOs&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     SWD Programming header&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Mounting holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a similar device, but with BLE5.1, for it's [AoA/Aod](https://www.bluetooth.com/blog/new-aoa-aod-bluetooth-capabilities/) Location features, so that I can use it as a tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any small (dev) board with BLE ***5.1*** will do (I am processor agnostic), but it ***must***  have a display - either eInk or OLED (even TFT), but preferably something battery friendly - and it ***must*** be either on-board or easily connected with something like a Grove connector; absolutely no soldering or hardware knowledge required (would Arduino compatibility be an idea? Probably plenty of snap-on displays). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A major bonus is an on-board debugger; failing that ability to us a J-TAG probe would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrnS3.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49681" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="0c8ef5e8-9f8e-438e-a4dd-92d408a55893" CreationDate="2020-06-30T10:48:14.187" UserId="1410" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="So, I just found [Papyr](https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/02/06/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware Specifications&#xD;&#xA;&gt; &#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Raytac MDBT50 module with Nordic nRF52840 BLE/802.15.4 SoC&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     1.54 inch 200x200 pixel red/black/white epaper display - GDEW0154Z04&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     CR2477 coin cell holder&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Micro USB (device)&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     RGB LED&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     NFC (PCB) antenna&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Push button&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     USB/Battery power switch&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Extra GPIOs&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     SWD Programming header&#xD;&#xA;&gt;     Mounting holes&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a similar device, but with BLE5.1, for it's [AoA/Aod](https://www.bluetooth.com/blog/new-aoa-aod-bluetooth-capabilities/) Location features, so that I can use it as a tracker.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any small (dev) board with at least BLE ***5.1*** will do (I am processor agnostic), but it ***must***  support a display - either eInk or OLED (even TFT), but preferably something battery friendly - and it ***must*** be either on-board or easily connected with something like a Grove connector; absolutely no soldering or hardware knowledge required (would Arduino compatibility be an idea? Probably plenty of snap-on displays). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A major bonus is an on-board debugger; failing that ability to us a J-TAG probe would be welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrnS3.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49682" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="12435" RevisionGUID="0c8ef5e8-9f8e-438e-a4dd-92d408a55893" CreationDate="2020-06-30T10:48:14.187" UserId="1410" Comment="added 12 characters in body; edited title" Text="BLE5.1(+) with on-board or snap-on display" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13718" RevisionGUID="153f8384-4a84-4b3f-b856-325875ef0dcf" CreationDate="2020-06-30T17:10:56.477" UserId="7532" Text="I am looking for some over-the-ear noise canceling headphones that can deal with really loud environments. I work in a lab/server room with high noise levels. I often listen to music or audio books as I work, and would need to wear them for several hours at a time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I can tell, most are built for more diverse sounding but relatively quiet environments like an office or public space, not for loud constant white-noise. For this situation, it may be better to call it noise *isolation* rather than noise *canceling*. Any other Tech/Developer/Engineers found a good pair for similar situations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wear earplugs when I'm not listening to music but regular in-ear or over-ear headphones don't give me enough attenuation to protect my hearing. I have tried using the [Walker Razor][1] which are great for attenuation but get uncomfortable for long periods and have disappointing sound quality. I even got desperate enough to try fitting my headphones into some disposable earplugs... I would love to hear any suggestions!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-Saftey-Razor-Electronic-Hi-Viz/dp/B07YXQKQZ6/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49689" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13718" RevisionGUID="153f8384-4a84-4b3f-b856-325875ef0dcf" CreationDate="2020-06-30T17:10:56.477" UserId="7532" Text="Over the ear high decibel noise isolation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49690" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13718" RevisionGUID="153f8384-4a84-4b3f-b856-325875ef0dcf" CreationDate="2020-06-30T17:10:56.477" UserId="7532" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49698" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13720" RevisionGUID="27495474-4a1d-49db-8ef3-ba4c87d18a5b" CreationDate="2020-06-30T18:35:26.653" UserId="6407" Text="Look at aviation headsets.  A lot of small airplanes have big engines (compared to cars at least) with no exhaust treatment whatsoever, close to the cockpit, running at high power for long periods of time.  Seems pretty close to what you're dealing with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most headsets nowadays have additional connections for a phone and/or computer.  I got one to use in industrial manufacturing plants, so I could connect my phone to it and call for help while standing next to the thing that's acting up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two well-known brands in the aviation industry:&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.davidclarkcompany.com/&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.lightspeedaviation.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And a generic google search:&#xD;&#xA;- https://www.google.com/search?q=aviation+headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13721" RevisionGUID="3c42c476-6ad6-4fa6-8cd3-b471996b2b0d" CreationDate="2020-06-30T18:50:31.263" UserId="7532" Text="You want a &quot;Sound Mixer&quot;. If you search that, most of what you will find are for production settings with XLR inputs and crazy features that make them really expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However there are some that will work for what you want. Here is a [cheap one that has 4 inputs][1] and here is a [battery powered option with better quality that has 2 inputs][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Channel-Audio-Passive-Recording/dp/B07Y2RYHFF&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-Mixer-Portable/dp/B01LPT8JY8/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49708" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13721" RevisionGUID="7efde7ef-633d-4511-be7a-a48726ad92e3" CreationDate="2020-07-01T16:14:41.350" UserId="7532" Comment="added 1672 characters in body" Text="You want a &quot;Sound Mixer&quot;. If you are working with analog audio signals, there are several options: Here is a [cheap one that has 4 inputs][1] and here is a [battery powered option with better quality that has 2 inputs][2]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately there are not any devices that share a USB connection between multiple hosts. That is just a limitation of USB. USB was designed as a master-slave system for peripherals, as such, it has a strict &quot;Tree Network&quot; topology. This means, no matter how you slice it, multiple hosts (computers) can't share a USB device. Similar issue on [this recent question][3]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because it is common to want this functionality, there exits several software solutions. I know this is outside the context of both this site and what you want, but its really the only option. This is where the Raspberry Pi you mentioned may come in. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find many options by searching for a way of sharing either the USB device, or the sound source over a network. A good example of this is the program [Synergy][4]. The original version of the program (there is a second more complicated version now) shares your mouse and keyboard between multiple computers by connecting your peripherals to one computer that acts as a server and sends its kb/m inputs over to another computer through a network. The program running on the second computer decodes this information and presents it to the operating system as a kb/m. The second computer can't access the keyboard or mouse directly, it only gets the keystrokes that are sent to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To do this with Audio there are programs like [PulseAudio][5] and [Virtual Audio Cable][6]. I can't say I have experience with either program so you may want to do your own research on them. You could use a Raspberry Pi to act as the host that you plug your headphones into, but you will probably not see any benefit over letting one of your computers be the host unless neither of those computers will always be available. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Channel-Audio-Passive-Recording/dp/B07Y2RYHFF&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://smile.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-Mixer-Portable/dp/B01LPT8JY8/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/13714/share-a-many-channel-usb-sound-card-between-several-stereo-computers&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://symless.com/synergy&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.freedesktop.org/wiki/Software/PulseAudio/&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://vac.muzychenko.net/en/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49709" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11866" RevisionGUID="e82be9af-9081-4fe9-b4e7-b93869ae7408" CreationDate="2020-07-01T17:02:40.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49710" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13714" RevisionGUID="c0fdbebf-6a9d-47ac-b94e-b8fdf01f53b2" CreationDate="2020-07-01T18:43:25.480" UserId="6407" Comment="Added architecture diagram" Text="Roughly the opposite of a USB hub, made possible by the application-specific details.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a digital audio mixer that, in addition to the analog I/O, also offers 18 channels each direction on USB 2.0 as a &quot;digital patchbay&quot; of sorts.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to connect several different computers to it without using the analog inputs, and give each computer its own unique stereo pair in each direction.  Is there a device that can go between and make that happen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 USB 2.0 host, to talk to the 18-channel sound card.&#xD;&#xA; - 2 to 9 USB devices, as copies of the sound card that the host sees, but with 2 channels each instead of 18, and whatever other changes that that requires to the descriptors.&#xD;&#xA; - Map/patch each USB device's channels to its own set of USB host channels with no overlap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- Begin schematic: In order to preserve an editable schematic, please&#xD;&#xA;     don't edit this section directly.&#xD;&#xA;     Click the &quot;edit&quot; link below the image in the preview instead. --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![schematic](http://i.stack.imgur.com/GF2TK.png)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;!-- End schematic --&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I didn't draw all 18 channels, but I think you get the idea.  As drawn, there are 4 USB hosts, each controlling its own separate bus, none of which interact directly with each other.  Just moving data from one bus to another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps better from a functional standpoint than modifying a given set of descriptors, I could go into the mixer's settings and set the sound card to 2-channel mode which is known to work, and then clone it, so that each computer thinks it's connecting to the 2-channel mode of that card.  Then set the mixer back to 18 channels on USB, while the go-between routes each odd-even pair to a different computer's 1-2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it makes a difference, this 18-channel sound card only supports 32-bit integer, little-endian (as if endian-ness matters for a direct passthrough), at either 48kHz or 44.1kHz to match the entire mixer's sample rate.  The USB host doesn't get to choose; it just is what it is, based on the mixer's setting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does such a device exist?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49711" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13710" RevisionGUID="873917bf-1bc9-4008-b0ae-2574942a1db2" CreationDate="2020-07-01T21:47:57.993" UserId="16025" Comment="added links to specific products I used" Text="Thanks for this BTW. I had a similar situation: DisplayPort ports on computers, DisplayPort switch, DisplayPort monitor. And of course, the windows jumping around every time I switched the monitor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried and tried to find a pass-through EDID adapter for DP to no avail. All I could find were headless plugs meant to fool some server's GPU that it was attached to a monitor. So I tried to duplicate your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I ended up going with different hardware, but I also took it a step further. Since I wanted to keep my existing DP switch, I brought the HDMI back to DP before reaching the switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, it's computer DP -&gt; DP-to-HDMI converter -&gt; HDMI EDID pass-through adapter -&gt; HDMI-to-DP converter -&gt; DP switch -&gt; monitor. I'm not running 4K, but it works fine at 2560 x 1440. And now the windows stay where they are during the monitor switch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are the parts I used from Amazon:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DP to HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PT7O/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI EDID: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722NVQHX/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDMI to DP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JMLGMG/&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49715" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13725" RevisionGUID="026bf8a6-dce6-481a-a639-cf37f8c14384" CreationDate="2020-07-02T16:07:21.830" UserId="16035" Text="I have a 34x14 monitor so I want to SLI for games. I have an i7 8700 3.7 on a good motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been told my card won't work with new cards. It's a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8G&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This only matches used cards? What's the issue?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I should just get two new 2080s?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49716" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13725" RevisionGUID="026bf8a6-dce6-481a-a639-cf37f8c14384" CreationDate="2020-07-02T16:07:21.830" UserId="16035" Text="SLI with Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8G" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49717" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13725" RevisionGUID="026bf8a6-dce6-481a-a639-cf37f8c14384" CreationDate="2020-07-02T16:07:21.830" UserId="16035" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13726" RevisionGUID="2e59cfa8-49d7-49b2-afbd-fe9a83f04caf" CreationDate="2020-07-02T16:31:35.357" UserId="16036" Text="I'd also suggest a used Thinkpad. Specifically the X series of Thinkpads if you want a laptop on the smaller EEE PC end of the spectrum. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend looking at models from the X220 onward. The X220 though, is a firm favourite in the community for a number of reasons. It was the last X series Thinkpad to come with the old style (and almost universally said to be) superior keyboard. It was the first generation to have Sandy Bridge processors, which saw a sizeable jump in performance. And as it's one of the most popular models amongst enthusiasts, resources for modding, upgrading, fixing, and repairing them, be it in hardware or software, are plentiful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just bare in min that if you were to get an X220, you'd need the i7 CPU version in order to get USB 3.0. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The X220 is a favourite of Thinkpad fans but my recommendation would still hold true for later models such as the X230, X240 etc... There is one more thing to keep in mind though. Thinkpads are/were business laptops. They were sold by the thousands to big business. They were known for being durable and perhaps as a result of that reputation, a lot of them saw a tough life. So it's all too common to finnd ones for sale that are in poor condition. When buying a Thinkpad, pay close attention to the screen's hinges, the bezel around the screen, and the corners of the main body. If you wanted, you can always ask for further advice on the condition or price of a Thinkpad that's for sale, one one of the Thinkpad community's forums.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[NOTE] There was a EEE PC style series of Thinkpads but they were rubbish, not worthy of the Thinkpad name. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13727" RevisionGUID="e74ce4fe-fb2e-4c07-8004-09218706d6ad" CreationDate="2020-07-02T16:54:43.357" UserId="7532" Text="The [Support page][1] shows that it supports SLI, but you need to pair your card with an identical one. If you have the original 2080, not the Ti or Super variants, then you need to find an original card. This can be hard to do as they have mostly phased the original out in favor of the Super, but that doesn't make it impossible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N2080GAMING-8GC#kf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49727" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="d8827d15-bc61-4ebd-9f56-4a85bc4aaa6c" CreationDate="2020-07-03T00:00:00.993" UserId="5531" Comment="added 64 characters in body" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, so the refresh rate is irrelevant. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49731" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="846148a8-069e-4316-8bb6-7ea90175b3b6" CreationDate="2020-07-03T08:18:43.557" UserId="16003" Comment="edited title" Text="One big monitor for two notebooks (WinPC and Macbook Pro)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49735" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="63ce2425-9b10-4a76-8449-6e0e3451df86" CreationDate="2020-07-03T10:03:48.920" UserId="16003" Comment="add additional tag" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49736" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1225" RevisionGUID="63ce2425-9b10-4a76-8449-6e0e3451df86" CreationDate="2020-07-03T10:03:48.920" Comment="Proposed by 16003 approved by 527 edit id of 1109" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13733" RevisionGUID="cb29ceca-34c5-46e1-9218-661831c5df52" CreationDate="2020-07-03T10:16:42.650" UserId="1226" Text="Such cards are not as popular as mini PCIe cards, so you'd better to go for any PCIe-to-miniPCIe card adapter + any supported mini PCIe card (e.g. Atheros).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check selected mini PCIe card for compatibility by the following lists:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. https://www.freebsd.org/releases/10.3R/hardware.html&#xD;&#xA;2. https://github.com/bsdhw/Drivers/blob/master/freebsd/freebsd-10.3.list" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49738" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="99f94a37-910d-4c0e-832f-f0524ed86873" CreationDate="2020-07-03T11:05:02.423" UserId="16003" Comment="add additional tag" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;uhd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49739" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="99f94a37-910d-4c0e-832f-f0524ed86873" CreationDate="2020-07-03T11:05:02.423" Comment="Proposed by 16003 approved by 5531 edit id of 1108" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49740" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11598" RevisionGUID="0bf410bd-5317-4b3c-bfdc-b1021fec0860" CreationDate="2020-07-03T16:04:00.460" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49755" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11552" RevisionGUID="b67cb5ce-7619-44db-9d57-581d2bea7bed" CreationDate="2020-07-03T18:00:55.033" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49756" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11607" RevisionGUID="26ca784e-3794-482b-97b1-fe0b38b7b210" CreationDate="2020-07-03T19:02:05.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49763" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13598" RevisionGUID="78c83eb2-a466-409c-85e0-34488d714de9" CreationDate="2020-07-04T01:01:05.027" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49765" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="5446b17b-b7bb-40bc-8a21-618f8f544dc6" CreationDate="2020-07-04T08:01:20.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49782" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="29bb525a-7c77-4c36-a297-db00126d86ee" CreationDate="2020-07-05T02:39:27.607" UserId="5531" Comment="Add MSI 34&quot;" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49791" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12212" RevisionGUID="b148447b-e30f-4781-a1d6-c6588c8c5b34" CreationDate="2020-07-05T22:43:12.637" UserId="476" Comment="added 101 characters in body" Text="EDIT 7/5/2020: It has been brought to my attention that this device only supports audio. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think a device like this ['Twinkk USB C Splitter'](https://www.amazon.com/Twinkk-Converter-Headphone-Compatible-Essential/dp/B07PSB133P/) is what you're looking for.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It costs **$15.99** and allows you to charge your device while also plugging in a data connection (In this case, your ASUS Zenscreen) at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPFbE.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49797" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="b2ed60e7-78c1-43a3-a79e-8675b2784cd0" CreationDate="2020-07-06T13:02:57.073" UserId="5531" Comment="ASUS 34&quot; 4K USB-C" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49798" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="848b678e-eddd-4008-b866-96bb00ede76d" CreationDate="2020-07-06T14:06:25.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49815" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11310" RevisionGUID="de85a132-374e-430d-b78c-d88c7b9d8a5e" CreationDate="2020-07-07T03:08:05.773" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13744" RevisionGUID="3f9f24e9-c9cc-498c-a6bd-093dfd8582df" CreationDate="2020-07-07T07:03:24.407" UserId="6806" Text="I am looking for some relatively cheap AVB talkers (approx 50-200 EUR; if that's not possible what is my cheapest option?). Most importantly talkers should have digital input(s) like S/PDIF or TOSLINK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A plus would be additional analoge inputs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternative: are there possibly *easy* self-made solutions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49820" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13744" RevisionGUID="3f9f24e9-c9cc-498c-a6bd-093dfd8582df" CreationDate="2020-07-07T07:03:24.407" UserId="6806" Text="Cheap AVB (audio) setup" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49821" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13744" RevisionGUID="3f9f24e9-c9cc-498c-a6bd-093dfd8582df" CreationDate="2020-07-07T07:03:24.407" UserId="6806" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;nuc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49826" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13745" RevisionGUID="3b6e19c5-c90d-40c0-bee4-9e674d5aaa6c" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:24:09.710" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49827" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13745" RevisionGUID="3b6e19c5-c90d-40c0-bee4-9e674d5aaa6c" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:24:09.710" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49828" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13746" RevisionGUID="54385752-dd69-45a4-9384-82409a7f750e" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:24:09.710" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49829" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13746" RevisionGUID="54385752-dd69-45a4-9384-82409a7f750e" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:24:09.710" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49834" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="9701" RevisionGUID="388aa21a-24d9-417d-a7db-e6b8dabfc5f7" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:29:49.340" UserId="24" Comment="tag++, padding" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;chromebook&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49835" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9701" RevisionGUID="388aa21a-24d9-417d-a7db-e6b8dabfc5f7" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:29:49.340" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 3813 edit id of 1117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13749" RevisionGUID="b0b6d3d1-f248-4a7a-b09d-8fdfa21c919f" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:24:47.853" UserId="1410" Text="An organization currently has a router, which was configured for [IVPN](https://www.ivpn.net/). During lockdown it has lost its settings and, for &quot;reasons&quot; they don't want to reconfigure it again, but to buy a new one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When it was bought, British Telecom (the ISP) had a handshake protocol with the router, such that one could only use BT provided routers. I do not know if that is still the case. The current router is hanging off the BT router, with other devices attached to it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, it would be nice to use a single router, stead of two, but two are acceptable. Paramount is that it be easily set up by a novice. No downloading configuration files &amp; flashing then. Just browse to 192.168.1.1 and enter the VPN service's use name &amp; password.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A big bonus if it supports IVPN, since they currently subscribe to that, but they are willing to switch VPN services, just so long as they have an off the shelf device with max use name &amp; password to configure.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A priority is delivery time, hoping to have it configured &amp; working in the UK by the weekend." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13749" RevisionGUID="b0b6d3d1-f248-4a7a-b09d-8fdfa21c919f" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:24:47.853" UserId="1410" Text="VPN pre-configured router for the UK" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13749" RevisionGUID="b0b6d3d1-f248-4a7a-b09d-8fdfa21c919f" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:24:47.853" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;vpn&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13750" RevisionGUID="089914e6-443e-4e44-a8b0-c3eb20eec017" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:25:41.763" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13750" RevisionGUID="089914e6-443e-4e44-a8b0-c3eb20eec017" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:25:41.763" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49855" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13751" RevisionGUID="a34ec299-fca2-4094-9e02-363f21c4f6fd" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:25:41.763" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49856" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13751" RevisionGUID="a34ec299-fca2-4094-9e02-363f21c4f6fd" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:25:41.763" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49857" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="8079" RevisionGUID="e6713e2d-c7d7-41b5-b0b6-dcc21256d59f" CreationDate="2020-07-08T14:01:33.413" UserId="24" Comment="tag++, padding" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;web-development&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;chromebook&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49858" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="8079" RevisionGUID="e6713e2d-c7d7-41b5-b0b6-dcc21256d59f" CreationDate="2020-07-08T14:01:33.413" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 6974 edit id of 1115" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49866" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13753" RevisionGUID="4022690e-fc61-40d7-81ae-7d9fe75cb523" CreationDate="2020-07-08T16:51:47.430" UserId="14410" Text="This is my first question on this StackExchange site, so please let me know how I can improve it.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a Windows laptop (I need to program with it - including [Android Studio][1]), but besides this I want to use it also to make music (ReasonStudios, here the [requirements][2], and being able to use with a synth keyboard), and performant enough for making timelapse video (including GoPro, not necessarily 4K).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-at least 1TB memory&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-i7 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Monitor with at least 1280 x 768 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I am Not a big expert about the graphic board, so I cannot really say whatare the best requirements for video editing &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the needed characteristics I saw a gaming laptop (OMEN by [HP 15-DH0039NL][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it a good one? Would you suggest some other laptop?&#xD;&#xA;My budget is &lt;1700€$ (but of course depends on the value) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.android.com/studio&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://help.reasonstudios.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002215674-What-are-the-minimum-system-requirements-for-Reason-11-&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.hp.com/it-it/document/c06468461" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49867" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13753" RevisionGUID="4022690e-fc61-40d7-81ae-7d9fe75cb523" CreationDate="2020-07-08T16:51:47.430" UserId="14410" Text="Windows laptop for programming, make music and editing videos" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49868" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13753" RevisionGUID="4022690e-fc61-40d7-81ae-7d9fe75cb523" CreationDate="2020-07-08T16:51:47.430" UserId="14410" Text="&lt;development&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13755" RevisionGUID="bd12a236-d048-4dc1-afe5-ca86afd8e6a9" CreationDate="2020-07-09T10:18:52.537" UserId="24" Text="I have an USB keyboard here, and I would like to connect it on bluetooth to other devices (mostly to android phones/phablets/tablets).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I know that buying an USB keyboard would be more simple and cheap, but not this is what I want to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that using OTG to connect the USB device to the android directly could also work, and this is a feasible direction, but my this question focus to the other option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I am looking for a device, where I can plug my USB keyboard into, and my androids would see it as a bluetooth device from that point.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for that on the google/ebay/amazon, the search results are faded away by the reverse direction (connecting a bluetooth device over usb), or by for me irrelevant audio bluetooth transfer solutions. I simply can't find such a device there. (Possibly I did not use the correct search keywords.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think such an adapter would require also a battery or/and an external (probably USB) power source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not very important yet (currently I am only looking for the options), later I will likely buy the cheapest one on the ebay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13755" RevisionGUID="bd12a236-d048-4dc1-afe5-ca86afd8e6a9" CreationDate="2020-07-09T10:18:52.537" UserId="24" Text="Connect USB keyboard to bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13755" RevisionGUID="bd12a236-d048-4dc1-afe5-ca86afd8e6a9" CreationDate="2020-07-09T10:18:52.537" UserId="24" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49901" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12872" RevisionGUID="40c9cc8a-073a-4e35-8d21-32ecedc74d8c" CreationDate="2020-07-10T04:03:25.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49902" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12164" RevisionGUID="f746de7e-ae23-4037-93d2-cf7f6222b456" CreationDate="2020-07-10T08:05:20.660" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49911" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13767" RevisionGUID="a6828aa3-4348-47f7-b041-b087608e4925" CreationDate="2020-07-10T15:50:58.737" UserId="16075" Text="Atomic Pi, ~$35 on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;Runs an Atom X5 Z3850 CPU (quadcore, with 2GB of RAM, and 16GB SSD), very energy efficient.&#xD;&#xA;Good for Linux, not Windows." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49915" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13768" RevisionGUID="077e630c-060d-4e58-8cca-2ace8af46302" CreationDate="2020-07-11T06:50:49.293" UserId="16078" Text="5 years gone since I bought my old laptop. Now I want to buy a new one. With only $600 I'm trying to choose the best for this price(as we all are).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I don't need a graphic card since I'm not playing any videogames.(Money for gpu should go on something else: ram, cpu, etc.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. RAM should be at least 8 gb.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. At least 128gb ssd&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. Display diagonal at least 15 inch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. It should be very fast so I suppose cpu should be &quot;good&quot; (I don't know how to characterize cpu)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Preferably lightweight&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm very bad at this topic. So I decided to ask you for help. What laptops can you suggest?&#xD;&#xA;I found the [Asus Vivobook f512da][1]. Is it a good choice?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YSV2SZG/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=thetechchap09-20&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B07YSV2SZG&amp;linkId=8fdc4d7cf933ea40bd2d9b15ef2fe1e5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49916" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13768" RevisionGUID="077e630c-060d-4e58-8cca-2ace8af46302" CreationDate="2020-07-11T06:50:49.293" UserId="16078" Text="Buying laptop for work under $600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49917" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13768" RevisionGUID="077e630c-060d-4e58-8cca-2ace8af46302" CreationDate="2020-07-11T06:50:49.293" UserId="16078" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49932" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13771" RevisionGUID="56d87601-2b6b-411d-9c6f-2a602f18346d" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:29:18.463" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49933" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13771" RevisionGUID="56d87601-2b6b-411d-9c6f-2a602f18346d" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:29:18.463" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49934" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13772" RevisionGUID="d334b377-d0dc-479c-a03f-29851ae8f595" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:29:18.463" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49935" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13772" RevisionGUID="d334b377-d0dc-479c-a03f-29851ae8f595" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:29:18.463" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49936" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13773" RevisionGUID="85128dcb-e175-45a3-b16f-07a5d7502a20" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:30:10.487" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49937" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13773" RevisionGUID="85128dcb-e175-45a3-b16f-07a5d7502a20" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:30:10.487" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49938" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13774" RevisionGUID="6ebb0e52-d9c4-4f66-91bd-9dd23fe75049" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:30:10.487" UserId="-1" Text="" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49939" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13774" RevisionGUID="6ebb0e52-d9c4-4f66-91bd-9dd23fe75049" CreationDate="2020-07-11T15:30:10.487" UserId="-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49948" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12128" RevisionGUID="0970afe5-74ad-4f1e-a903-bd9dc1c1d831" CreationDate="2020-07-11T18:34:57.543" UserId="13610" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="Since no one else answered I will give the answer, as in the meantime I choose the &quot;Ubiquiti Unifi 16-150W&quot; switch. It has one (maybe even 2) fans, but they only come on at a certain temperature and at startup. I have never heard them running after startup in my case, but I only have 2 PoE devices." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49955" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="abebd20b-4fbb-43b0-9d62-008340c814b3" CreationDate="2020-07-12T05:03:45.397" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49956" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12888" RevisionGUID="0e2db142-d44e-4cf7-b9dc-776238d67ae6" CreationDate="2020-07-12T06:01:35.183" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49963" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="7b19ccbe-2699-4acd-b056-aef68f2276d2" CreationDate="2020-07-12T19:04:10.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="49969" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="86ccf4cc-534b-4215-a8c7-e44bf58558ef" CreationDate="2020-07-13T04:11:12.153" UserId="16003" Comment="add additional tag" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;trackball&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49970" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="18" RevisionGUID="86ccf4cc-534b-4215-a8c7-e44bf58558ef" CreationDate="2020-07-13T04:11:12.153" Comment="Proposed by 16003 approved by 61 edit id of 1110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49978" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13607" RevisionGUID="d2db2062-78c6-480a-932d-93f531382572" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:24:07.900" UserId="15924" Comment="added 1124 characters in body" Text="Need a scanner, price up to **1000 EUR**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Absolute requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent Linux support under Debian&#xD;&#xA; - Automatic Document Feeder (ADF) for at least 20 pages in A4 format&#xD;&#xA; - Duplex&#xD;&#xA; - At least 300 DPI&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection to computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only packages from Debian repositories required&#xD;&#xA; - Fast operation (we have loads of pages to scan)&#xD;&#xA; - 600 DPI or higher&#xD;&#xA; - Optional scanning to USB stick without any computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Excellent Linux support&quot; in particular means that we can easily start a scan from a tool like gscan2pdf, and it will scan all the pages in the ADF into a single PDF file. It should also be possible to scan some more pages after this and have them added to the same PDF file.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion:** We bought the *Brother ADS-3600W*. It did not work out-of-the-box under Debian/buster, but we had to download a DEB file from Brother's homepage, which currently is`brscan5-1.2.2-0.amd64.deb`. Installing this DEB and rebooting made all scan programs recognize the device. Of course, it would be much, much nicer if Brother offered a *repository* instead, so that updates would come via `apt`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We mostly use `gscan2pdf`. It works fine in the range up to documents about 70 pages (scanning up to 50 pages at a time, since the scanner has a 50 page feeder). After this, it becomes very slow, almost unusable. We suspect this is a problem with program `gscan2pdf` and not with the scanner or its driver. Waiting and hoping for a new version of the program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We also received verbal confirmation from Epson that the *Workforce DS-870* does work with SANE under Linux. This scanner has a 100 page feeder and would thus have been better. However, since Epson insisted on prehistory communication (that is, via phone and not e-mail), this message arrived too late, after we already ordered the Brother. Maybe next time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49979" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13607" RevisionGUID="cfa50357-71fd-417d-b653-d7b5d0a7e917" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:42:22.993" UserId="15924" Comment="typo" Text="Need a scanner, price up to **1000 EUR**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Absolute requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Excellent Linux support under Debian&#xD;&#xA; - Automatic Document Feeder (ADF) for at least 20 pages in A4 format&#xD;&#xA; - Duplex&#xD;&#xA; - At least 300 DPI&#xD;&#xA; - USB connection to computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Only packages from Debian repositories required&#xD;&#xA; - Fast operation (we have loads of pages to scan)&#xD;&#xA; - 600 DPI or higher&#xD;&#xA; - Optional scanning to USB stick without any computer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Excellent Linux support&quot; in particular means that we can easily start a scan from a tool like gscan2pdf, and it will scan all the pages in the ADF into a single PDF file. It should also be possible to scan some more pages after this and have them added to the same PDF file.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conclusion:** We bought the *Brother ADS-3600W*. It did not work out-of-the-box under Debian/buster, but we had to download a DEB file from Brother's homepage, which currently is`brscan5-1.2.2-0.amd64.deb`. Installing this DEB and rebooting made all scan programs recognize the device. Of course, it would be much, much nicer if Brother offered a *repository* instead, so that updates would come via `apt`.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We mostly use `gscan2pdf`. It works fine in the range up to documents about 70 pages (scanning up to 50 pages at a time, since the scanner has a 50 page feeder). After this, it becomes very slow, almost unusable. We suspect this is a problem with program `gscan2pdf` and not with the scanner or its driver. Waiting and hoping for a new version of the program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We also received verbal confirmation from Epson that the *Workforce DS-870* does work with SANE under Linux. This scanner has a 100 page feeder and would thus have been better. However, since Epson insisted on prehistoric communication (that is, via phone and not e-mail), this message arrived too late, after we already ordered the Brother. Maybe next time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49980" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13782" RevisionGUID="2341b898-e03f-4ed0-a384-1b63a60d1127" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:43:13.483" UserId="9587" Text="Baseus GaN 120W PD charger would be the one to consider.&#xA;&#xA;https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPxnjT&#xA;&#xA;It doesn't exactly has 4 ports, but it has 3 ports that all support QC and some support PD. I have a cheaper 65W model, which can support 2 ports working in PD or QC mode simultaneously, but doesn't support QC on all ports at the same time, but I think this one is much more powerful, and so should be able to support all three ports working in QC mode, especially since it says the three ports can deliver &quot;60w+30w+30w&quot;." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49997" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13786" RevisionGUID="eb30d285-1cd7-45e5-9fa3-bdf4ff98a294" CreationDate="2020-07-14T13:46:06.293" UserId="2226" Text="I am looking forward to build a fanless mini-ITX computer (with a dedicated computer case). The criteria that are important to me for this platform are the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Reliability**: no system crash, no instability&#xD;&#xA; 2. **Durability**: long-term system stability (think of a home server running 24/7 &#xD;&#xA;for years)&#xD;&#xA; 3. **Performance**: as high as possible given the energy constraints and that 1. and 2. are met&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the platform will be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **CPU**: [Intel Core i9-10900T][1]: 10 cores, 1.90 GhZ (4.60 GhZ Turbo), 35W TDP (as this processor can go up to 120W TDP when no limitation are put in place, I will put a TDP limit in the bios given that the platform will be fanless)&#xD;&#xA; - **Motherboard**: [Gigabyte Mini-ITX Z490I AORUS ULTRA (rev. 1.x)][2], manual [here][3], official memory support list [here][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given my criteria and my CPU and motherboard, I would like to know what would be the best **memory** that would fit my needs given the following constraints:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Type**: DDR4 DIMM (non-ECC)&#xD;&#xA; - **Amount**: 64 GB (2x32 GB kit)&#xD;&#xA; - **LED**: for equivalent kits performance-wise, without LEDs will be prefered&#xD;&#xA; - **Voltage**: for equivalent kits performance-wise, the lower the better&#xD;&#xA; - **Brand**: preferably one known for reliability, stability, and durability&#xD;&#xA; - **Max price**: irrelevant in the limit of about 500 euros/dollars for the kit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I am looking for something extremely stable, I am unlikely to tweak a million options in the BIOS. Overclocking will not be a thing, since it will be for something that will be used as a fanless home server most of the time. But even with these constraints, I am looking for the best possible performance. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any advice? I am looking for 2 or 3 good options that would fit my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/processors/core/i9-processors/i9-10900t.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z490I-AORUS-ULTRA-rev-1x#kf&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z490i-aorus-ultra_1001_e.pdf&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_z490i-aorus-ultra.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49998" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13786" RevisionGUID="eb30d285-1cd7-45e5-9fa3-bdf4ff98a294" CreationDate="2020-07-14T13:46:06.293" UserId="2226" Text="High performance memory kit for a fanless mini-itx home server based on a i9-10900T and a Gigabyte Z490I AORUS ULTRA?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="49999" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13786" RevisionGUID="eb30d285-1cd7-45e5-9fa3-bdf4ff98a294" CreationDate="2020-07-14T13:46:06.293" UserId="2226" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50010" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13790" RevisionGUID="c3bb9854-35bf-4b86-ac3a-2be8939bea73" CreationDate="2020-07-15T17:19:21.353" UserId="15765" Text="I am looking for a WiFi (WLAN) USB Stick with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - adjustable transmit power like with internal Intel WiFi chips:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![transmit power][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am aiming for low transmit power. An RP-SMA connector is preferable too but not necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LColo.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50011" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13790" RevisionGUID="c3bb9854-35bf-4b86-ac3a-2be8939bea73" CreationDate="2020-07-15T17:19:21.353" UserId="15765" Text="WiFi (WLAN) Stick with adjustable transmit power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50012" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13790" RevisionGUID="c3bb9854-35bf-4b86-ac3a-2be8939bea73" CreationDate="2020-07-15T17:19:21.353" UserId="15765" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;wlan&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50018" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13793" RevisionGUID="fc9d7944-b9a2-4a69-8f74-714dbb1b6bca" CreationDate="2020-07-16T11:38:17.337" UserId="2226" Text="For HP I would recommend:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The best fit at $1850: [HP Spectre x360 15 EB0065NR][1]&#xD;&#xA; - Same idea, at $1450: [HP Spectre x360 15 DF1040NR][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can afford it, I would definitely go for the first one since it has everything you're looking for. The second one has a graphics card not as powerful as the first one, and &quot;only&quot; 512GB of SSD (note that you could add a very good external hard disk drive and stay below $1700 total).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-spectre-x360-laptop-15-eb0065nr&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-spectre-x360-15-df1040nr" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50044" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13753" RevisionGUID="7943cf75-84a9-4be8-a002-ee218433b1c8" CreationDate="2020-07-17T07:20:18.010" UserId="7840" Comment="Memory -&gt; Storage." Text="This is my first question on this StackExchange site, so please let me know how I can improve it.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;I am interested in a Windows laptop (I need to program with it - including [Android Studio][1]), but besides this I want to use it also to make music (ReasonStudios, here the [requirements][2], and being able to use with a synth keyboard), and performant enough for making timelapse video (including GoPro, not necessarily 4K).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-8 GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-at least 1TB storage&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Windows 10&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Intel Core i7 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-Monitor with at least 1280 x 768 resolution&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I am Not a big expert about the graphic board, so I cannot really say whatare the best requirements for video editing &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For the needed characteristics I saw a gaming laptop (OMEN by [HP 15-DH0039NL][3]).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is it a good one? Would you suggest some other laptop?&#xD;&#xA;My budget is &lt;1700€$ (but of course depends on the value) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://developer.android.com/studio&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://help.reasonstudios.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002215674-What-are-the-minimum-system-requirements-for-Reason-11-&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://support.hp.com/it-it/document/c06468461" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50045" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13753" RevisionGUID="7943cf75-84a9-4be8-a002-ee218433b1c8" CreationDate="2020-07-17T07:20:18.010" Comment="Proposed by 7840 approved by 14410 edit id of 1124" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50047" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13799" RevisionGUID="1342e98f-c037-4489-9617-ed4e239a723a" CreationDate="2020-07-17T14:57:48.987" UserId="16106" Text="**Background**: I want to use Android's FusedLocationProvider to provide location data onboard an indoor/outdoor robot. The FusedLocationProvider leverages GPS, WiFi, Cell Tower, and Bluetooth data to provide location data that is not possible with the hardware GPS-only sensors typically used in robotics, particularly within indoor environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Question**: Other than mounting an actual smartphone inside the robot, what embedded hardware platforms would you recommend for running Android as a Location provider?  I believe FusedLocationProvider requires Google Play Services, which might limit the hardware platform options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50048" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13799" RevisionGUID="1342e98f-c037-4489-9617-ed4e239a723a" CreationDate="2020-07-17T14:57:48.987" UserId="16106" Text="Embedded Hardware platforms that support Android's FusedLocationProvider" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50049" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13799" RevisionGUID="1342e98f-c037-4489-9617-ed4e239a723a" CreationDate="2020-07-17T14:57:48.987" UserId="16106" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;android&gt;&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13800" RevisionGUID="f952b3c4-d461-4a1f-ba07-0334b9cabcf6" CreationDate="2020-07-17T19:06:21.803" UserId="16108" Text="I wanna build a doomsday archive on an e-ink reader, meaning I want to utilize the full capacity of a highest reasonable price memory card (currently the 1tb microSDXC). I have been asking around capacity support over 32gb seems to be a widely unsupported feature. Are you aware of any model with high capacity support? It can also be a regular size SD supporting reader, even though similar sizes are more expensive, I could use it with a microSD to SD adapter.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50051" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13800" RevisionGUID="f952b3c4-d461-4a1f-ba07-0334b9cabcf6" CreationDate="2020-07-17T19:06:21.803" UserId="16108" Text="Any 1tb microSDXC card compatibility in e-ink readers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50052" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13800" RevisionGUID="f952b3c4-d461-4a1f-ba07-0334b9cabcf6" CreationDate="2020-07-17T19:06:21.803" UserId="16108" Text="&lt;microsd&gt;&lt;e-reader&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;&lt;sdxc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50057" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="128" RevisionGUID="5f94a5b0-fe44-4772-bc1c-19298acb14d2" CreationDate="2020-07-17T20:13:21.537" UserId="8" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="50058" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="128" RevisionGUID="0c53798f-c6ec-4450-9198-0d33546eb228" CreationDate="2020-07-17T20:13:23.170" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="50059" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13801" RevisionGUID="617a0bca-60e7-4bfc-abb8-35f44a05faed" CreationDate="2020-07-17T20:55:49.210" UserId="6122" Text="I'm looking for a drone that has the following features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Weighs less than 250 grams (to avoid the legal obstacles for use);&#xD;&#xA;* Can resist wind up to 8 m/s;&#xD;&#xA;* Can use GPS and barometer to maintain its position and altitude, so that the operator can concentrate on actual mission instead of being busy operating the craft;&#xD;&#xA;* Has downward vision sensors to maintain position at smaller altitudes without GPS;&#xD;&#xA;* Has a camera on a stabilizing gimbal;&#xD;&#xA;* Can stream FPV video to a mobile device and take still photos;&#xD;&#xA;* Can continuously fly for 30 minutes;&#xD;&#xA;* Is ready to fly out of the box (i.e. no need to build it first);&#xD;&#xA;* Its firmware and ground control software are free and opensource, so that I could modify them and actually fly with these modifications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of these items except the last one are satisfied by DJI Mavic Mini. But the last one isn't, and I'd like to find a good alternative that satisfies all the items for a price no more than 2× that of Mavic Mini. So the price should be no more than about 800 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already have the Mini, so if the suggested option is a mod for it rather than a whole new drone (e.g. a custom mainboard), it's also acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the suggested option is a kit to assemble from instead of the ready to fly drone, this is also acceptable provided that the kit has everything to get the complete ready to fly drone, without any need to purchase additional parts." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50060" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13801" RevisionGUID="617a0bca-60e7-4bfc-abb8-35f44a05faed" CreationDate="2020-07-17T20:55:49.210" UserId="6122" Text="An opensource alternative to Mavic Mini" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50061" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13801" RevisionGUID="617a0bca-60e7-4bfc-abb8-35f44a05faed" CreationDate="2020-07-17T20:55:49.210" UserId="6122" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="23e0e34b-ecc0-4a12-b302-863480dcf111" CreationDate="2020-07-19T00:53:19.433" UserId="16118" Text="A few firsts here. This is my first question on SE (so also first question on Hardware Recommendations), and also my first computer build, so feel free to correct me if I'm off-base! That said, I am an electrical engineer, so also feel free to be a bit technical if you must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm choosing parts for a new computer build, and I especially like the new Ryzen processors' performance/price ratio. I'm designing with the intent to upgrade the processor in the future. Starting out, I want to use the AMD Ryzen 5 3400G (4 cores) with only the internal graphics card. Stage 2 is upgrading the graphics card to something discrete; I haven't picked which yet. Stage 3 is upgrading my processor to something very nice - an AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (16 cores), for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why three stages? I'm willing to swallow the cost off the Ryzen 5 3400G to have a working computer while I save up and select graphics cards, wait for the 3950X to fall a bit in price, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: **What economical motherboard would be a good fit for this scenario?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better, but I don't want to bottleneck performance. X570 chipset is a must. At least 32GB RAM is a must. M.2 PCIE/NVME drive compatibility is a must - I'm so looking forward to 3GB/s transfer speeds!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need RGB lights or water cooling; not for my first build, at least. ;) I'm intending to edit RAW photos in a program that likes having lots of threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around and found the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard, which seems compatible on PC Part Picker, but I'm worried that there will be some performance throttling that the site doesn't mention when I put a beast like the 3950X on it. Is that something I need to worry about with this board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I know this question is similar to [this recent post][1], but given the difference in hardware (AMD vs. Intel, for one), I'm guessing it's not a duplicate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: If the question as stated is too subjective, I'd be happy just to know &quot;Does the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard throttle performance on the AMD Ryzen 9 3950X?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1407/motherboard-for-the-long-run-in-an-otherwise-initially-low-end-gaming-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50082" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="23e0e34b-ecc0-4a12-b302-863480dcf111" CreationDate="2020-07-19T00:53:19.433" UserId="16118" Text="What economical motherboard best supports upgrading AMD Ryzen 5 3400G to Ryzen 9 3950X in the future?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50083" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="23e0e34b-ecc0-4a12-b302-863480dcf111" CreationDate="2020-07-19T00:53:19.433" UserId="16118" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50084" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="8a70d6bd-cd35-4f60-8a6b-b5d135d775bd" CreationDate="2020-07-19T01:10:07.443" UserId="16118" Comment="edited body" Text="A few firsts here. This is my first question on SE (so also first question on Hardware Recommendations), and also my first computer build, so feel free to correct me if I'm off-base! That said, I am an electrical engineer, so also feel free to be a bit technical if you must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm choosing parts for a new computer build, and I especially like the new Ryzen processors' performance/price ratio. I'm designing with the intent to upgrade the processor in the future. Starting out, I want to use the AMD Ryzen 5 3400G (4 cores) with only the internal graphics card. Stage 2 is upgrading the graphics card to something discrete; I haven't picked which yet. Stage 3 is upgrading my processor to something very nice - an AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (16 cores), for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why three stages? I'm willing to swallow the cost off the Ryzen 5 3400G to have a working computer while I save up and select graphics cards, wait for the 3950X to fall a bit in price, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: **What economical motherboard would be a good fit for this scenario?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better, but I don't want to bottleneck performance. X570 chipset is a must. At least 32GB RAM is a must. M.2 PCIE/NVME drive compatibility is a must - I'm so looking forward to 3GB/s transfer speeds!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need RGB lights or water cooling; not for my first build, at least. ;) I'm intending to edit RAW photos in a program that likes having lots of threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around and found the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard, which seems compatible on PC Part Picker, but I'm worried that there will be some performance throttling that the site doesn't mention when I put a beast like the 3950X on it. Is that something I need to worry about with this board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I know this question is similar to [this recent post][1], but given the difference in hardware (AMD vs. Intel, for one), I'm guessing it's not a duplicate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: If the question as stated is too subjective, I'd be happy just to know &quot;Does the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard throttle performance of the AMD Ryzen 9 3950X?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1407/motherboard-for-the-long-run-in-an-otherwise-initially-low-end-gaming-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="7e54c486-557f-473c-b7b5-df63dd43e20f" CreationDate="2020-07-19T02:36:54.313" UserId="16118" Comment="added 112 characters in body" Text="A few firsts here. This is my first question on SE (so also first question on Hardware Recommendations), and also my first computer build, so feel free to correct me if I'm off-base! That said, I am an electrical engineer, so also feel free to be a bit technical if you must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm choosing parts for a new computer build, and I especially like the new Ryzen processors' performance/price ratio. I'm designing with the intent to upgrade the processor in the future. Starting out, I want to use the AMD Ryzen 5 3400G (4 cores) with only the internal graphics card. Stage 2 is upgrading the graphics card to something discrete; I haven't picked which yet. Stage 3 is upgrading my processor to something very nice - an AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (16 cores), for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why three stages? I'm willing to swallow the cost off the Ryzen 5 3400G to have a working computer while I save up and select graphics cards, wait for the 3950X to fall a bit in price, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: **What economical motherboard would be a good fit for this scenario?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better, but I don't want to bottleneck performance. X570 chipset is a must. At least 32GB RAM is a must. M.2 PCIE/NVME drive compatibility is a must - I'm so looking forward to 3GB/s transfer speeds!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need RGB lights or water cooling; not for my first build, at least. ;) I'm intending to edit RAW photos in a program that likes having lots of threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around and found the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard, which seems compatible on PC Part Picker, but I'm worried that there will be some performance throttling that the site doesn't mention when I put a beast like the 3950X on it. Is that something I need to worry about with this board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I know this question is similar to [this recent post][1], but given the difference in hardware (AMD vs. Intel, for one), I'm guessing it's not a duplicate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: If the question as stated is too subjective, I'd be happy just to know &quot;Does the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard throttle performance of the AMD Ryzen 9 3950X?&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Given that this is my first question, if I can improve it, please let me know how in the comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1407/motherboard-for-the-long-run-in-an-otherwise-initially-low-end-gaming-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50093" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13805" RevisionGUID="acf297e5-e1ac-4595-a11a-6bd8ecdd14ab" CreationDate="2020-07-19T17:54:08.530" UserId="16118" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="A few firsts here. This is my first question on SE (so also first question on Hardware Recommendations), and also my first computer build, so feel free to correct me if I'm off-base! That said, I am an electrical engineer, so also feel free to be a bit technical if you must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm choosing parts for a new computer build, and I especially like the new Ryzen processors' performance/price ratio. I'm designing with the intent to upgrade the processor in the future. Starting out, I want to use the AMD Ryzen 5 3400G (4 cores) with only the internal graphics card. Stage 2 is upgrading the graphics card to something discrete; I haven't picked which yet. Stage 3 is upgrading my processor to something very nice - an AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (16 cores), for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why three stages? I'm willing to swallow the cost off the Ryzen 5 3400G to have a working computer while I save up and select graphics cards, wait for the 3950X to fall a bit in price, etc. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question: **What economical motherboard would be a good fit for this scenario?** &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cheaper is better, but I don't want to bottleneck performance. X570 chipset is a must. At least 32GB RAM is a must. M.2 PCIE/NVME drive compatibility is a must - I'm so looking forward to 3GB/s transfer speeds!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need RGB lights or water cooling; not for my first build, at least. ;) I'm intending to edit RAW photos in a program that likes having lots of threads.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've looked around and found the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard, which seems compatible on PC Part Picker, but I'm worried that there will be some performance throttling that the site doesn't mention when I put a beast like the 3950X on it. Is that something I need to worry about with this board?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I know this question is similar to [this recent post][1], but given the difference in hardware (AMD vs. Intel, for one), I'm guessing it's not a duplicate?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: If the question as stated is too subjective, I'd be happy just to know &quot;**Does the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard throttle performance of the AMD Ryzen 9 3950X?**&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Edit:** Given that this is my first question, if I can improve it, please let me know how in the comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1407/motherboard-for-the-long-run-in-an-otherwise-initially-low-end-gaming-system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50094" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13808" RevisionGUID="36012d47-7b0b-4017-9555-4a5678fabdf3" CreationDate="2020-07-19T20:00:33.293" UserId="16118" Text="That's a tall order.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I haven't found anything quite that nice in the open source world, although I've looked. Honestly, you might have to content yourself with missing some of those features or going over the 250g mark; if anyone knows otherwise, please prove me wrong so I can look at buying one too! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This thread][1] discusses the possibility of porting Ardupilot or PX4 (both are open source) to the Mavic series, but the results aren't encouraging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**That said, here's where I would look:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Sky Viper 2450 GPS seems to be [compatible with Ardupilot][2]. The [specs][3] include GPS hold and a pivoting (downward) camera, video streaming and (I believe) picture capability. But, we're talking about brushed motors and 12-15 min flight time. It comes in solidly under your 250g limit, though, and well below your price point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I highly recommend looking through the [PX4 ecosystem][4] to see if there is anything that meets your needs. None are going to be exactly the Mavic Mini, but you might find something there close enough to work. I don't know which of your specs are flexible well enough to determine which of these will be your best fit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read the Mavic Mini described as the &quot;Cadillac&quot; of UAV's in its class. Unfortunately, I don't think we in the open source / drone enthusiast crowd have quite caught up with it yet. Of course, if you want to help us get there, you're welcome to do so! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://discuss.ardupilot.org/t/dji-mavic-series/34285&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://ardupilot.org/dev/docs/skyviper.html&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://rchobbyreview.com/sky-viper-drone-review/#tab-con-6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://px4.io/ecosystem/commercial-systems/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50108" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="009249a9-6297-4145-820b-c92b6b1a3d3e" CreationDate="2020-07-20T02:00:55.200" UserId="6936" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="I need a keyboard which has an extra key in the area of the left thumb.&#xD;&#xA;I need this extra key to bind it to the mouse left button, because I use graphic tablet a lot and it's *next to impossible* to work normally without a mouse click functionality. Currently I use Autohotkey and bind the `LWin` key to emulate the mouse click, but it is inconvenient &#xD;&#xA;because the `LWin` key is in the 'dead' zone and I need to make extra movements all the time so it is quite painful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I need a keyboard which has some extra key in the thumb area i.e. where the space bar normally is. The problem though - none of the standard  keyboards have them (they only have a huge spacebar as everybody knows).  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've spent a lot of time googling and I have found something that looks promising:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;source: http://mc.pp.se/dc/kbd.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's a Japanese keyboard. This seems exactly what I am looking for, because there are extra buttons on the bottom row. All Japanese have them so I could buy one, BUT: the problem is, I am not sure how this extra key (left to the spacebar) will act normally if I use Windows  and e.g. standard US layout? Will it be possible to make use of it by binding it to the mouse click with Autohotkey? Or maybe there are some Japanese keyboards produced for EU/US market with those keys as a bonus (would be ideal)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also I have found another possible solution: ThinkPad Lenovo keyboard with trackpoint:  &#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I don't like it because it's not full-size, and I don't really need &#xD;&#xA;the trackpoint.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One option which looks promising as well is MS Natural Ergonomic 4000:   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;because of two extra buttons below the spacebar. Again Not sure if they can be used to emulate mouse click.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So *ideally* I want something like the Japanese keyboard, but only if I can really make use of those keys &#xD;&#xA;in the bottom row.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions**:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Can I make use of that extra keys on Japanese keyboards, e.g. rebind with Autohotkey to other keys (mouse click)?&#xD;&#xA;- Can I bind the MS Natural 4000 extra keys (below the spacebar 'prev' button) to the mouse click?&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboards with split spacebar (2-piece spacebar) - can the left piece be bound to other key by any chance?&#xD;&#xA;- Do you know of any analog or similar keyboards, i.e. with extra keys on the bottom row that can be used in such way? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally the keyboard should be easily available and not very expensive. Obviously there is something &#xD;&#xA;like ErgoDox, but I am not ready for this investment of money and time yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMiRI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GZBM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Of3jA.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50109" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="9754" RevisionGUID="009249a9-6297-4145-820b-c92b6b1a3d3e" CreationDate="2020-07-20T02:00:55.200" UserId="6936" Comment="added 2 characters in body; edited title" Text="Keyboard with extra thumb keys (below or near the spacebar)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50110" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13811" RevisionGUID="45ddea87-7bc4-4885-b7bc-8ad770ac56f2" CreationDate="2020-07-20T08:14:15.927" UserId="24" Text="Fortunately, it is easier as we could see on the first spot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two trivial solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Any monitor with at least 2 HDMI ports. Most of them (I estimate more than 50%) has multiple HDMI ports today.&#xD;&#xA;2. Using a KVM extender, like [this][1], to connect multiple laptops to the same display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(2) has also the advantage, that you can use a single keyboard/mouse for both of your laptops.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Exactly which monitor(s) do you like you use, is already up to you (note, typically monitors live longer as the laptops, so a wise decision is relative more important).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://kvm-switch.de/images/product_images/original_images/DP02UR-F.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13755" RevisionGUID="502334be-f192-4f4e-8714-1ec0df1e8281" CreationDate="2020-07-20T09:33:19.473" UserId="24" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have an USB keyboard here, and I would like to connect it on bluetooth to other devices (mostly to android phones/phablets/tablets).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes, I know that buying a bluetooth keyboard would be more simple and cheap, but not this is what I want to do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know that using OTG to connect the USB device to the android directly could also work, and this is a feasible direction, but my this question focus to the other option:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I am looking for a device, where I can plug my USB keyboard into, and my androids would see it as a bluetooth device from that point.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for that on the google/ebay/amazon, the search results are faded away by the reverse direction (connecting a bluetooth device over usb), or by for me irrelevant audio bluetooth transfer solutions. I simply can't find such a device there. (Possibly I did not use the correct search keywords.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think such an adapter would require also a battery or/and an external (probably USB) power source.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price is not very important yet (currently I am only looking for the options), later I will likely buy the cheapest one on the ebay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50136" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13817" RevisionGUID="6bc14c40-a419-47cf-b72d-8d58af85892f" CreationDate="2020-07-22T03:37:37.860" UserId="342" Text="I have an HP-envy that is very minimalist ports-wise. &#xD;&#xA;Basically it has two USB3 and a type-c ( and an SD-card slot ) - but the question is more general and not only specific to this machine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are the hardware options ( not specific but more categories of hardware ) that will allow me to use **two external** monitors that extend each other on a machine that only has one type-C port? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found some splitters, some external USB graphic cards, but all the solutions I found are a bit clumsy or will not allow two external monitors ( but only one ) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can afford to ignore the laptop own monitor - or if allowing to have it also working reaching 3 Monitors ..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50137" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13817" RevisionGUID="6bc14c40-a419-47cf-b72d-8d58af85892f" CreationDate="2020-07-22T03:37:37.860" UserId="342" Text="Screen / monitor splitter / dual monitor on a laptop with only Type-c" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50138" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13817" RevisionGUID="6bc14c40-a419-47cf-b72d-8d58af85892f" CreationDate="2020-07-22T03:37:37.860" UserId="342" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50141" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13820" RevisionGUID="31ca47c5-4ba0-4783-8f4d-ff418ee34d8a" CreationDate="2020-07-22T15:03:05.450" UserId="15883" Text="Something like this [USB C to Dual HDMI Adaptor][1] should allow you to use 2 additional screens although this is dependant on your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I found some splitters, some external USB graphic cards, but all the solutions I found are a bit clumsy or will not allow two external monitors ( but only one )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have had similar issues using external USB Graphics cards / Hubs such as this [USB docking station][2]. A lot of these use [displaylink][3] to enable the use of an external display. The problem with displaylink is that it has an extra overhead over a native display connection, such as HDMI, to enable extra screens to be connected over lower bandwidth, non-native, connections, such as USB 2.0 and therefore can be not as smooth or 'clumsy' as you described.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0815YD7RX?pf_rd_r=53QAFXGZS7JQQWPKNGA7&amp;pf_rd_p=e632fea2-678f-4848-9a97-bcecda59cb4e&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Universal-Docking-Station-Ethernet-Black/dp/B00GQ3685Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&amp;keywords=anker%20usb%20dock%20display&amp;qid=1595429468&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTjFGUVRDQTM4VkVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjIzODE2MVVHNFFZMUo2N0pQTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDUzNjQzTFFOUzRGVDFKRjNaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.displaylink.com/small-office/how" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50148" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13823" RevisionGUID="53040e30-5b44-416e-9ba6-fd910585d0fa" CreationDate="2020-07-23T04:33:13.490" UserId="342" Text="I can not verdict anything specific regarding hardware ( a single specific router ) but I can help with a firmware - [DDWRT][1] have some functions that can help with that, not all are DNS based, but for example protocol based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, any [router that supports the installation of DDWRT][2] might be a good choice for this task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;small remark, in the sphere of alternative power router systems / firmwares you also have [tomato][3] and [open-wrt][4] - and some others - but I never used those and I am mentioning it here only for reference whereas I have used DDWRT for more than 10 years for various tasks including the some very similar to the ones you describe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also including a reference screenshot of some example settings that allow to block game-specific protocols - but there are many more and a power user who can also code a bit can be virtually limitless in options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DD-WRT access restrictions settings screen][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, since it is after all a hardware Recommendations site - I can tell you that I am using **Netgear R6300V2** at home ( low cost )  **Asus RT-AC88U Dual-Band** ( high-end high price ) at office and **Netgear Nighthawk X4S (R7800)** ( middle range pricewise) at another location - all of which works great..&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of lists regarding what is the best router for DD-WRT ( or tomato etc ) and you can easily find them on [google by typing &quot;best ddwrt routers][6]&quot; or any search engine of your choice for that matter - but for the sake of the answer I will include two - one from [FORBES][7] ( wow - forbes is doing ddwrt ? it has used to be a very niche product ) and one from [PCMAG][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also worth mentioning that some manufacturers offer a DDWRT built-in from the box because it is really more powerful ( and awesome ) than their own firmwares for users who are less techno-phobics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer will give you another perspective / direction for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dd-wrt.com/support/router-database/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://advancedtomato.com&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSst5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?q=best%20ddwrt%20routers&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonykarcz/2019/07/11/the-best-dd-wrt-routers-of-2019/#69267fa21559&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-wireless-routers-that-can-run-dd-wrt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50149" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13823" RevisionGUID="9464c902-81f9-4310-bd92-bafc97717b52" CreationDate="2020-07-23T04:44:51.300" UserId="342" Comment="added 294 characters in body" Text="I can not verdict anything specific regarding hardware ( a single specific router ) but I can help with a firmware - [DDWRT][1] have some functions that can help with that, not all are DNS based, but for example protocol based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, any [router that supports the installation of DDWRT][2] might be a good choice for this task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;small remark, in the sphere of alternative power router systems / firmwares you also have [tomato][3] and [open-wrt][4] - and some others - but I never used those and I am mentioning it here only for reference whereas I have used DDWRT for more than 10 years for various tasks including the some very similar to the ones you describe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also including a reference screenshot of some example settings that allow to block game-specific protocols - but there are many more and a power user who can also code a bit can be virtually limitless in options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DD-WRT access restrictions settings screen][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this specific example you can filter by MAC address, by IP or by IP range and you can choose from a huge list of protocols / services for filtering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, since it is after all a hardware Recommendations site - I can tell you that I am using **Netgear R6300V2** at home ( low cost )  **Asus RT-AC88U Dual-Band** ( high-end high price ) at office and **Netgear Nighthawk X4S (R7800)** ( middle range pricewise) at another location - all of which works great.. I basically did not used any router with the built-in firmware for over 10 years. the first thing I do when I get them is flash DDWRT on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of lists regarding what is the best router for DD-WRT ( or tomato etc ) and you can easily find them on [google by typing &quot;best ddwrt routers][6]&quot; or any search engine of your choice for that matter - but for the sake of the answer I will include two - one from [FORBES][7] ( wow - forbes is doing ddwrt ? it has used to be a very niche product ) and one from [PCMAG][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also worth mentioning that some manufacturers offer a DDWRT built-in from the box because it is really more powerful ( and awesome ) than their own firmwares for users who are less techno-phobics. DuckDUckgo is your best friend here ( or google if you so choose )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer will give you another perspective / direction for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dd-wrt.com/support/router-database/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://advancedtomato.com&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSst5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?q=best%20ddwrt%20routers&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonykarcz/2019/07/11/the-best-dd-wrt-routers-of-2019/#69267fa21559&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-wireless-routers-that-can-run-dd-wrt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50150" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13823" RevisionGUID="c2f98176-a1b6-4eec-8aab-a775c935077f" CreationDate="2020-07-23T04:49:53.867" UserId="342" Comment="added 294 characters in body" Text="This question is a bit old - and maybe you already found a solution - but still for the sake of others I will post my answer here .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can not verdict anything specific regarding hardware ( a single specific router ) but I can help with a firmware - [DDWRT][1] have some functions that can help with that, not all are DNS based, but for example protocol based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, any [router that supports the installation of DDWRT][2] might be a good choice for this task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;small remark, in the sphere of alternative power router systems / firmwares you also have [tomato][3] and [open-wrt][4] - and some others - but I never used those and I am mentioning it here only for reference whereas I have used DDWRT for more than 10 years for various tasks including the some very similar to the ones you describe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also including a reference screenshot of some example settings that allow to block game-specific protocols - but there are many more and a power user who can also code a bit can be virtually limitless in options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DD-WRT access restrictions settings screen][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this specific example you can filter by MAC address, by IP or by IP range and you can choose from a huge list of protocols / services for filtering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, since it is after all a hardware Recommendations site - I can tell you that I am using **Netgear R6300V2** at home ( low cost )  **Asus RT-AC88U Dual-Band** ( high-end high price ) at office and **Netgear Nighthawk X4S (R7800)** ( middle range pricewise) at another location - all of which works great.. I basically did not used any router with the built-in firmware for over 10 years. the first thing I do when I get them is flash DDWRT on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of lists regarding what is the best router for DD-WRT ( or tomato etc ) and you can easily find them on [google by typing &quot;best ddwrt routers][6]&quot; or any search engine of your choice for that matter - but for the sake of the answer I will include two - one from [FORBES][7] ( wow - forbes is doing ddwrt ? it has used to be a very niche product ) and one from [PCMAG][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also worth mentioning that some manufacturers offer a DDWRT built-in from the box because it is really more powerful ( and awesome ) than their own firmwares for users who are less techno-phobics. DuckDUckgo is your best friend here ( or google if you so choose )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer will give you another perspective / direction for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dd-wrt.com/support/router-database/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://advancedtomato.com&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSst5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?q=best%20ddwrt%20routers&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonykarcz/2019/07/11/the-best-dd-wrt-routers-of-2019/#69267fa21559&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-wireless-routers-that-can-run-dd-wrt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13827" RevisionGUID="04fd043d-a479-4653-875c-f887d91e1383" CreationDate="2020-07-23T21:59:17.280" UserId="16142" Text="Because the default power of USB 3.1 is at max. 4,5 Watt I thought I could use a splitter or Y cable for that. The idea is that one USB-A male connector transfers the data (10 Gbit) and power and the other USB-A male connector the power in addition. So you could get 9 Watt out of two ports.&#xA;&#xA;But I only found one cable from CY and here it is one time USB 2.0 only and on the other side they write USB 3.1. Aren‘t there any other options?&#xA;&#xA;Another alternative would be an USB hub. But one with external power supply, 10 Gbit and more than 900 mA per port would start at 90 $ ... (e.g. IB-HUB1477-C31).&#xA;&#xA;Is it really that complicated?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50166" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13827" RevisionGUID="04fd043d-a479-4653-875c-f887d91e1383" CreationDate="2020-07-23T21:59:17.280" UserId="16142" Text="USB 3.1 splitter Type C (male) to 2x Type A (male)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50167" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13827" RevisionGUID="04fd043d-a479-4653-875c-f887d91e1383" CreationDate="2020-07-23T21:59:17.280" UserId="16142" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50168" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13823" RevisionGUID="2e24db08-5335-462f-84a9-1b1c535e5236" CreationDate="2020-07-24T00:42:13.520" UserId="342" Comment="added 11 characters in body" Text="This question is a bit old - and maybe you already found a solution - but still for the sake of others I will post my answer here .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can not verdict anything specific regarding hardware ( a single specific router ) but I can help with a firmware - [DDWRT][1] have some functions that can help with that, not all are DNS based, but for example protocol or service based.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus, any [router that supports the installation of DDWRT][2] might be a good choice for this task.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;small remark, in the sphere of alternative power router systems / firmwares you also have [tomato][3] and [open-wrt][4] - and some others - but I never used those and I am mentioning it here only for reference whereas I have used DDWRT for more than 10 years for various tasks including the some very similar to the ones you describe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am also including a reference screenshot of some example settings that allow to block game-specific protocols - but there are many more and a power user who can also code a bit can be virtually limitless in options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![DD-WRT access restrictions settings screen][5]][5]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In this specific example you can filter by MAC address, by IP or by IP range and you can choose from a huge list of protocols / services for filtering&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, since it is after all a hardware Recommendations site - I can tell you that I am using **Netgear R6300V2** at home ( low cost )  **Asus RT-AC88U Dual-Band** ( high-end high price ) at office and **Netgear Nighthawk X4S (R7800)** ( middle range pricewise) at another location - all of which works great.. I basically did not used any router with the built-in firmware for over 10 years. the first thing I do when I get them is flash DDWRT on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are a LOT of lists regarding what is the best router for DD-WRT ( or tomato etc ) and you can easily find them on [google by typing &quot;best ddwrt routers][6]&quot; or any search engine of your choice for that matter - but for the sake of the answer I will include two - one from [FORBES][7] ( wow - forbes is doing ddwrt ? it has used to be a very niche product ) and one from [PCMAG][8].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is also worth mentioning that some manufacturers offer a DDWRT built-in from the box because it is really more powerful ( and awesome ) than their own firmwares for users who are less techno-phobics. DuckDUckgo is your best friend here ( or google if you so choose )&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope this answer will give you another perspective / direction for your need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://dd-wrt.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://dd-wrt.com/support/router-database/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://advancedtomato.com&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://openwrt.org&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSst5.png&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.google.com/search?q=best%20ddwrt%20routers&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonykarcz/2019/07/11/the-best-dd-wrt-routers-of-2019/#69267fa21559&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-wireless-routers-that-can-run-dd-wrt" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50180" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13829" RevisionGUID="60738435-42a4-4b64-bb20-fcba5fe6c64b" CreationDate="2020-07-25T17:36:29.033" UserId="6806" Text="I found an audio interface from [Behringer - the UCA222](https://www.behringer.com/product.html?modelCode=P0A31) (for about 23 EUR - as from Jul/2020) which looked pretty promising **and cheap**. It has input and output RCA sockets, as well as a 3.5 mm headphone jack with a volume control wheel and of course S/PDIF via TOSLINK.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fortunately I found a block diagram of the [audio chip (CM6533)](https://www.cmedia.com.tw/products/USB20_FULL_SPEED/CM6533N) used within the UCA222. That showed me that the digital output is almost a &quot;pass-through&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;I spoke with the Behringer team. They told me **most of their devices are class compliant - so Linux should work too**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That's what I finally bought and it works quite smoothly. The AD/DA components are probably not the best (haven't tested them so far) but that's why I connect it via a S/PDIF switch to a high quality DAC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50181" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13562" RevisionGUID="6ad836ca-5ab1-4be4-906a-6c0094a7c93e" CreationDate="2020-07-25T17:37:55.627" UserId="6806" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="I am searching for a USB (A or C male) to TOSLINK Adapter (female) in order to keep my audio signal digital as long as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What is important that I do not need to install specific drivers (this is especially important for Linux).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;==&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively it could be coaxial S/PDIF instead of TOSLINK." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50194" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11492" RevisionGUID="5a1cec47-5bc6-42cf-aaf1-c2a826c33143" CreationDate="2020-07-25T21:06:05.693" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50201" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13832" RevisionGUID="69c5ee0c-61f1-48f9-9db8-f91a19115b6a" CreationDate="2020-07-26T13:34:49.693" UserId="14349" Text="First off: yes there are many questions similar to this, but most of them are *very outdated* (Most recent I've seen is 2016).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a laptop for general use, which for me is programming and light gaming (minecraft and similar). The features I'd like are listed here in order of importance (top = highest importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have 8GB of RAM or more&#xD;&#xA; - Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.&#xD;&#xA; - Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.&#xD;&#xA; - A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.&#xD;&#xA; - A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.&#xD;&#xA; - I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is £1000/$1000 but I can go maybe £1-200 over if absolutely necessary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50202" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13832" RevisionGUID="69c5ee0c-61f1-48f9-9db8-f91a19115b6a" CreationDate="2020-07-26T13:34:49.693" UserId="14349" Text="Looking for a laptop capable of light gaming and programming for under £1000/$1000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50203" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13832" RevisionGUID="69c5ee0c-61f1-48f9-9db8-f91a19115b6a" CreationDate="2020-07-26T13:34:49.693" UserId="14349" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50213" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13834" RevisionGUID="46c762c1-dc66-4c30-b311-41adc7d332bf" CreationDate="2020-07-27T02:47:46.230" UserId="10459" Text="I'm interested in getting a _real camera_ which also works as a webcam (i.e. which I can connect to my computer through USB or Network for things like a Zoom or Skype call).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The camera should have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  * 1080p or 2160p (4K)&#xD;&#xA;  * Capable of 30fps at 1080p resolution&#xD;&#xA;  * Manual Focus (this seems to be a non-existent feature these days?! -- I'm probably not looking at the right place, though)&#xD;&#xA;  * No auto-dim light support (or at least a way to turn that off)&#xD;&#xA;  * USB or RJ45&#xD;&#xA;  * Works with Ubuntu 18.04+&#xD;&#xA;  * Onboard memory so I can use it to record away from the computer [optional]&#xD;&#xA;  * Lens has a zoom capability (a real lens zoom, not a digital zoom) [optional]&#xD;&#xA;  * Support multiple lenses [optional]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The best cameras I've seen have a zoom and focus which are separated (i.e. once focused, changing the zoom doesn't change the focus at all), but I suspect those would be really expensive?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I sure do not want: a security camera, a cheap $30 website which is really not going to cut it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50214" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13834" RevisionGUID="46c762c1-dc66-4c30-b311-41adc7d332bf" CreationDate="2020-07-27T02:47:46.230" UserId="10459" Text="I'm looking for a 1080p good quality camera which I can also use as a &quot;webcam&quot; and which has a lense with a manual focus" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50215" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13834" RevisionGUID="46c762c1-dc66-4c30-b311-41adc7d332bf" CreationDate="2020-07-27T02:47:46.230" UserId="10459" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50221" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13836" RevisionGUID="8ff4d172-78fe-4688-88e5-826e39239b49" CreationDate="2020-07-27T16:03:48.197" UserId="16153" Text="From the criteria you posted, I think laptop with minimum MX250 graphic card would be sufficient for you. MX250 is not as good as GTX1050 but still better than AMD APU. Since you want to replace the SSD\HDD, I assumed that you need a laptop with expandable storage also. You can try to look for DELL inspiron 14 5000 series. I think it will meet your criteria well enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50222" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13837" RevisionGUID="d2baef34-a7cf-4863-9371-b356297e4f32" CreationDate="2020-07-27T16:14:22.573" UserId="16153" Text="Does 15 inch is a little bit too big for work? And moreover you looking a laptop with light weight also. I would reccomend you to look into the one at most 14 inch. For productivity and low price, you can look into lenovo C340 that comes with AMD ryzen CPU (i forgot which ryzen CPU). That model also have touchscreen and comes with stylus that can make you easier taking notes during working." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13838" RevisionGUID="093ccbd8-4c4a-4242-9aaf-cb36c41d3c02" CreationDate="2020-07-27T18:09:39.840" UserId="15627" Text="In general, since the AMD &quot;Zen 2&quot; CPUs came out with great performance and decent prices, I would recommend any laptop with a Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processor and 16GB of RAM. Since these are new models that came out this year, peripherals are mostly up to date and not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me explain based on every requirment you posted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processors come at a much better price/performance ratio then the Intel counterparts when not for gaming, and they score greatly in various multi-core benchmarks. They are quite suitable for programming as they speed up multi-threaded compiling and program running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have 8GB of RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB is highly recommended now since you do programming, therefore probably need at least both an IDE and a browser to stay open, added with memory taken by the OS, 8GB is quite tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most laptops have decent keyboards. You should consider buying seperate mechanical keyboards if you are really picky about it. However, ThinkPad keyboards are admittedly better than others for working since they inherited all the ergonomics patents from IBM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all laptops in that price range have 1080P or superior screens so that's not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you mentioned light gaming like Minecraft, integrated graphics should be enough for you. Then you can go for one with the 4700U or 4800U processor, in which &quot;U&quot; stands for low power so that should give you 5+ hours of battery life and a light body. On the other hand, if you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, you can go for one with the 4800H or 4900HS processor and the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 graphics card or better, but in this case, 5+ hours of battery life can't be guaranteed and it can be slightly heavier but won't be a big problem for you to carry around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;U&quot; models usually only come with one M.2 NVMe SSD and the &quot;H&quot; models usually come with both an M.2 NVMe SSD and a SATA HDD. So keep in mind what kind of drive you want to replace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install Linux on any of them. However, Ubuntu seems to have better driver support for ThinkPads because most software engineers working on Ubuntu use ThinkPads given by their companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So based on the explanations above, I'd recommend 3 models:&#xD;&#xA;* Lenovo ThinkPad E14/E15 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4700U  &#xD;&#xA;This one perfectly suits your needs. it has the ergonomic keyboard and the TrackPoint which are perfect for programmers, and there is good driver support for ThinkPads on Ubuntu.&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS TUF Gaming with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800H  &#xD;&#xA;If you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, at the sacrifice of less battery life and more weight, you can go for this one. This is a well sold ASUS model at a quite decent price. And another advantage of this model is that there is one extra empty SATA drive slot so you can just add your drive instead of replacing it (I have opened one so I know).&#xD;&#xA;* ROG Zephyrus G14  &#xD;&#xA;If you want extreme performance are are willing to spend more money, go for the ROG. It starts at about $1100 and the 4900HS model starts at about $1600 so it's still within your price limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And check out multi-core scores on [Processor Benchmarks - Geekbench Browser](https://browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks/) if you want to see how much these CPUs differ in performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50224" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13838" RevisionGUID="60186cd6-65e2-4f55-a1fa-967258524952" CreationDate="2020-07-27T19:48:31.177" UserId="15627" Comment="added 199 characters in body; added 7 characters in body" Text="In general, since the AMD &quot;Zen 2&quot; CPUs came out with great performance and decent prices, I would recommend any laptop with a Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processor and 16GB of RAM. Since these are new models that came out this year, peripherals are mostly up to date and not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me explain based on every requirment you posted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processors come at a much better price/performance ratio then the Intel counterparts when not for gaming, and they score greatly in various multi-core benchmarks. They are quite suitable for programming as they speed up multi-threaded compiling and program running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have 8GB of RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB is highly recommended now since you do programming, therefore probably need at least both an IDE and a browser to stay open, added with memory taken by the OS, 8GB is quite tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most laptops have decent keyboards. You should consider buying seperate mechanical keyboards if you are really picky about it. However, ThinkPad keyboards are admittedly better than others for working since they inherited all the ergonomics patents from IBM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all laptops in that price range have 1080P or superior screens so that's not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you mentioned light gaming like Minecraft, integrated graphics should be enough for you. Then you can go for one with the 4700U or 4800U processor, in which &quot;U&quot; stands for low power so that should give you 5+ hours of battery life and a light body. On the other hand, if you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, you can go for one with the 4800H or 4900HS processor and the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 graphics card or better, but in this case, 5+ hours of battery life can't be guaranteed and it can be slightly heavier but won't be a big problem for you to carry around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;U&quot; models usually only come with one M.2 NVMe SSD and the &quot;H&quot; models usually come with both an M.2 NVMe SSD and a SATA HDD. So keep in mind what kind of drive you want to replace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install Linux on any of them. However, Ubuntu seems to have better driver support for ThinkPads because most software engineers working on Ubuntu use ThinkPads given by their companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So based on the explanations above, I'd recommend these 4 options:&#xD;&#xA;* Lenovo ThinkPad E14/E15 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4700U  &#xD;&#xA;This one perfectly suits your needs. it has the ergonomic keyboard and the TrackPoint which are perfect for programmers, and there is good driver support for ThinkPads on Ubuntu.&#xA;* Lenovo Yoga/IdeaPad Slim 7 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800U  &#xA;If you want 8C16T of even greater CPU performance on a light book you can checkout these 2. However, you might also lose the ThinkPad benefits.&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS TUF Gaming with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800H  &#xD;&#xA;If you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, at the sacrifice of less battery life and more weight, you can go for this one. This is a well sold ASUS model at a quite decent price. And another advantage of this model is that there is one extra empty SATA drive slot so you can just add your drive instead of replacing it (I have opened one so I know).&#xD;&#xA;* ROG Zephyrus G14  &#xD;&#xA;If you want extreme performance are are willing to spend more money, go for the ROG. It starts at about $1100 and the 4900HS model starts at about $1600 so it's still within your price limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And check out multi-core scores on [Processor Benchmarks - Geekbench Browser](https://browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks/) if you want to see how much these CPUs differ in performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50225" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13838" RevisionGUID="5c4de829-ffdc-415b-9a1c-630a39b83fcf" CreationDate="2020-07-27T19:59:53.577" UserId="15627" Comment="added 2 characters in body" Text="In general, since the AMD &quot;Zen 2&quot; CPUs came out with great performance and decent prices, I would recommend any laptop with a Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processor and 16GB of RAM. Since these are new models that came out this year, peripherals are mostly up to date and not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me explain based on every requirment you posted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processors come at a much better price/performance ratio then the Intel counterparts when not for gaming, and they score greatly in various multi-core benchmarks. They are quite suitable for programming as they speed up multi-threaded compiling and program running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have 8GB of RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB is highly recommended now since you do programming and therefore probably need at least both an IDE and a browser to stay open, added with memory taken by the OS 8GB is quite tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most laptops have decent keyboards. You should consider buying seperate mechanical keyboards if you are really picky about it. However, ThinkPad keyboards are admittedly better than others for working since they inherited all the ergonomics patents from IBM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all laptops in that price range have 1080P or superior screens so that's not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you mentioned light gaming like Minecraft, integrated graphics should be enough for you. Then you can go for one with the 4700U or 4800U processor, in which &quot;U&quot; stands for low power so that should give you 5+ hours of battery life and a light body. On the other hand, if you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, you can go for one with the 4800H or 4900HS processor and the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 graphics card or better, but in this case, 5+ hours of battery life can't be guaranteed and it can be slightly heavier but won't be a big problem for you to carry around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;U&quot; models usually only come with one M.2 NVMe SSD and the &quot;H&quot; models usually come with both an M.2 NVMe SSD and a SATA HDD. So keep in mind what kind of drive you want to replace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install Linux on any of them. However, Ubuntu seems to have better driver support for ThinkPads because most software engineers working on Ubuntu use ThinkPads given by their companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So based on the explanations above, I'd recommend these 4 options:&#xD;&#xA;* Lenovo ThinkPad E14/E15 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4700U  &#xD;&#xA;This one perfectly suits your needs. it has the ergonomic keyboard and the TrackPoint which are perfect for programmers, and there is good driver support for ThinkPads on Ubuntu.&#xA;* Lenovo Yoga/IdeaPad Slim 7 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800U  &#xA;If you want 8C16T of even greater CPU performance on a light book you can checkout these 2. However, you might also lose the ThinkPad benefits.&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS TUF Gaming with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800H  &#xD;&#xA;If you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, at the sacrifice of less battery life and more weight, you can go for this one. This is a well sold ASUS model at a quite decent price. And another advantage of this model is that there is one extra empty SATA drive slot so you can just add your drive instead of replacing it (I have opened one so I know).&#xD;&#xA;* ROG Zephyrus G14  &#xD;&#xA;If you want extreme performance are are willing to spend more money, go for the ROG. It starts at about $1100 and the 4900HS model starts at about $1600 so it's still within your price limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And check out multi-core scores on [Processor Benchmarks - Geekbench Browser](https://browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks/) if you want to see how much these CPUs differ in performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50232" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13838" RevisionGUID="6b57a03f-63f9-4b8e-abbf-dbf962bb80a7" CreationDate="2020-07-28T04:29:44.973" UserId="15627" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="In general, since the AMD &quot;Zen 2&quot; CPUs came out with great performance and decent prices, I would recommend any laptop with a Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processor and 16GB of RAM. Since these are new models that came out this year, peripherals are mostly up to date and not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me explain based on every requirment you posted.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Ryzen™ Mobile 4000 Series Processors come at a much better price/performance ratio then the Intel counterparts when not for gaming, and they score greatly in various multi-core benchmarks. They are quite suitable for programming as they speed up multi-threaded compiling and program running.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have 8GB of RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;16GB is highly recommended now since you do programming and therefore probably need at least both an IDE and a browser to stay open, added with memory taken by the OS 8GB is quite tight.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most laptops have decent keyboards. You should consider buying seperate mechanical keyboards if you are really picky about it. However, ThinkPad keyboards are admittedly better than others for working since they inherited all the ergonomics patents from IBM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Almost all laptops in that price range have 1080P or superior screens so that's not to worry about.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since you mentioned light gaming like Minecraft, integrated graphics should be enough for you. Then you can go for one with the 4700U or 4800U processor, in which &quot;U&quot; stands for low power so that should give you 5+ hours of battery life and a light body. On the other hand, if you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, you can go for one with the 4800H or 4900HS processor and the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 graphics card or better, but in this case, 5+ hours of battery life can't be guaranteed and it can be slightly heavier but won't be a big problem for you to carry around.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; - I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The &quot;U&quot; models usually only come with one M.2 NVMe SSD and the &quot;H&quot; models usually come with both an M.2 NVMe SSD and a SATA HDD. So keep in mind what kind of drive you want to replace.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can install Linux on any of them. However, Ubuntu seems to have better driver support for ThinkPads because most software engineers working on Ubuntu use ThinkPads given by their companies.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So based on the explanations above, I'd recommend these 4 options:&#xD;&#xA;* Lenovo ThinkPad E14/E15 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4700U  &#xD;&#xA;This one perfectly suits your needs. it has the ergonomic keyboard and the TrackPoint which are perfect for programmers, and there is good driver support for ThinkPads on Ubuntu.&#xA;* Lenovo Yoga/IdeaPad Slim 7 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800U  &#xA;If you want 8C16T of even greater CPU performance on a light book you can checkout these 2. However, you might also lose the ThinkPad benefits.&#xD;&#xA;* ASUS TUF Gaming A15/A17 with AMD Ryzen™ 7 4800H  &#xD;&#xA;If you want slightly more CPU performance and a lot more GPU performance, at the sacrifice of less battery life and more weight, you can go for this one. This is a well sold ASUS model at a quite decent price. And another advantage of this model is that there is one extra empty SATA drive slot so you can just add your drive instead of replacing it (I have opened one so I know).&#xD;&#xA;* ROG Zephyrus G14  &#xD;&#xA;If you want extreme performance are are willing to spend more money, go for the ROG. It starts at about $1100 and the 4900HS model starts at about $1600 so it's still within your price limit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And check out multi-core scores on [Processor Benchmarks - Geekbench Browser](https://browser.geekbench.com/processor-benchmarks/) if you want to see how much these CPUs differ in performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50233" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12845" RevisionGUID="f8cf12a9-dd11-464c-ac11-29976bd8821d" CreationDate="2020-07-28T05:00:40.073" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50243" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13842" RevisionGUID="356ea1d0-9eff-4f95-b9a1-08b631ac6f03" CreationDate="2020-07-28T20:15:03.657" UserId="13590" Text="I'm looking for a digital voice recorder with these features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 4+ hours of recording time&#xD;&#xA;* Each recording is saved as a separate audio file&#xD;&#xA;* Audio files have a timestamp in the metadata&#xD;&#xA;* Good audio quality&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Preferrably under $50 USD, but up to $100 is okay." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50244" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13842" RevisionGUID="356ea1d0-9eff-4f95-b9a1-08b631ac6f03" CreationDate="2020-07-28T20:15:03.657" UserId="13590" Text="Digital voice recorder with timestamps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50245" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13842" RevisionGUID="356ea1d0-9eff-4f95-b9a1-08b631ac6f03" CreationDate="2020-07-28T20:15:03.657" UserId="13590" Text="&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50250" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="8e692908-d7bb-4a14-8028-e3856b507465" CreationDate="2020-07-29T11:50:18.713" UserId="16003" Comment="add additional tag" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50276" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="a485aa0d-9473-49b3-9e95-fb7dbbb0f772" CreationDate="2020-07-30T10:36:15.820" UserId="16158" Text="Edit to add: I'm being told this question was deleted &quot;because the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task, rather than to support existing devices.&quot; I thought it was clear from the question, so please let me know how I can make it clearer, but this question *is* seeking a pre-purchase hardware recommendation, and is *not* looking to support existing devices. I apologize for reposting this question, but I did not see other instructions for challenging a delete, @[ArtOfCode][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. I want lots of cores and lots of RAM, but I don't need much disk space, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. I definitely don't need a monitor, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3], I was wondering if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100%20750&amp;N=100283198%20600031823%20600545486%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202%2050001186&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50277" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="a485aa0d-9473-49b3-9e95-fb7dbbb0f772" CreationDate="2020-07-30T10:36:15.820" UserId="16158" Text="Is it feasible to use a blade server (e.g., HP ProLiant) without a rack?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50278" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="a485aa0d-9473-49b3-9e95-fb7dbbb0f772" CreationDate="2020-07-30T10:36:15.820" UserId="16158" Text="&lt;rack&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13849" RevisionGUID="aee0510d-1b08-41bd-af92-867583d0c0f7" CreationDate="2020-07-30T16:22:33.733" UserId="16169" Text="I am trying to search for **miniature** receiver and transmitter for custom made **drone/helicopter**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no special requirements outside of a size. Sure, the size doesn't matter that much in the remote controller, but in drone itself, it should be as small as possible so the drone the can be too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, I know about all these single board computers especially made for IoT purposes like: ESP8266, Raspberry Pi (Zero), Arduino MKR with WiFi, or even MAMBA F722 MINI, but all of them seem to be too large for its purpose - to build the smallest drone possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that people who create these RC vehicles will know about something smaller. I really appreciate your answers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13849" RevisionGUID="aee0510d-1b08-41bd-af92-867583d0c0f7" CreationDate="2020-07-30T16:22:33.733" UserId="16169" Text="Miniature receiver and transmitter for remotely controlled drone/helicopter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13849" RevisionGUID="aee0510d-1b08-41bd-af92-867583d0c0f7" CreationDate="2020-07-30T16:22:33.733" UserId="16169" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;&lt;drone&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13850" RevisionGUID="1142b1de-08a7-4114-9826-731ac3e34675" CreationDate="2020-07-30T23:10:30.680" UserId="16159" Text="I'd like to record both HDMI and composite signals, in that it records the audio and video to a device for retrieval later without any computer connection required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any available hardware that can record and capture 1080p HDMI and composite signals?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50286" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13850" RevisionGUID="1142b1de-08a7-4114-9826-731ac3e34675" CreationDate="2020-07-30T23:10:30.680" UserId="16159" Text="Way to record / capture HDMI and composite signals?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50287" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13850" RevisionGUID="1142b1de-08a7-4114-9826-731ac3e34675" CreationDate="2020-07-30T23:10:30.680" UserId="16159" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video-capture&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50288" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13851" RevisionGUID="ad8ab91c-5957-4abf-87b3-24572361828a" CreationDate="2020-07-31T02:52:06.213" UserId="16159" Text="Asking this question led to using the search terms of &quot;***offline hdmi capture***&quot;, where a device from [agptek][1] was found (video: 2017, LinuxTechShow, &quot;[Record Your Gameplay Without A Computer][2]&quot;) and is as shown below:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Picture of offline USB HDMI/composite capture device][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://shop.category5.tv/?product=1080p-30-fps-hdmi-component-video-capture-to-usb-without-computer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsPGwrtpYT8&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEvRh.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50289" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="4ed56f1c-2450-4286-9d08-f819ff3802d5" CreationDate="2020-07-31T08:53:12.560" UserId="16158" Comment="Bold and italicize question to make it more obvious. Same for summary at end." Text="Edit to add: I'm being told this question was deleted &quot;because the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task, rather than to support existing devices.&quot; I thought it was clear from the question, so please let me know how I can make it clearer, but this question *is* seeking a pre-purchase hardware recommendation, and is *not* looking to support existing devices. I apologize for reposting this question, but I did not see other instructions for challenging a delete, @[ArtOfCode][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. I want lots of cores and lots of RAM, but I don't need much disk space, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. I definitely don't need a monitor, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3], I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100%20750&amp;N=100283198%20600031823%20600545486%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202%2050001186&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="fefd328a-f156-44cb-a602-1a2a68bf9411" CreationDate="2020-07-31T08:54:28.017" UserId="16158" Comment="Make it clearer that the question is *not* about HP Proliant, but about blade servers." Text="Edit to add: I'm being told this question was deleted &quot;because the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task, rather than to support existing devices.&quot; I thought it was clear from the question, so please let me know how I can make it clearer, but this question *is* seeking a pre-purchase hardware recommendation, and is *not* looking to support existing devices. I apologize for reposting this question, but I did not see other instructions for challenging a delete, @[ArtOfCode][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. I want lots of cores and lots of RAM, but I don't need much disk space, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. I definitely don't need a monitor, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3] (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100%20750&amp;N=100283198%20600031823%20600545486%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202%2050001186&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50291" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="807ab4af-9a17-4a0b-867d-3bf6239b4611" CreationDate="2020-07-31T08:59:53.283" UserId="16158" Comment="Bold/italicize requirements." Text="Edit to add: I'm being told this question was deleted &quot;because the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task, rather than to support existing devices.&quot; I thought it was clear from the question, so please let me know how I can make it clearer, but this question *is* seeking a pre-purchase hardware recommendation, and is *not* looking to support existing devices. I apologize for reposting this question, but I did not see other instructions for challenging a delete, @[ArtOfCode][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. ***I want lots of cores and lots of RAM, but I don't need much disk space***, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. ***I definitely don't need a monitor***, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (***I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750***), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3] (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100%20750&amp;N=100283198%20600031823%20600545486%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202%2050001186&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50292" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="19b4a57c-fc88-4ac3-9505-f1fc9c4174b7" CreationDate="2020-07-31T09:05:39.387" UserId="16158" Comment="Make requirements more precise" Text="Edit to add: I'm being told this question was deleted &quot;because the site is here to provide pre-purchase hardware recommendations and to recommend hardware for a specific task, rather than to support existing devices.&quot; I thought it was clear from the question, so please let me know how I can make it clearer, but this question *is* seeking a pre-purchase hardware recommendation, and is *not* looking to support existing devices. I apologize for reposting this question, but I did not see other instructions for challenging a delete, @[ArtOfCode][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. ***I want lots of cores (&gt;=12) and lots of RAM (&gt;=24 GB), but I don't need much disk space***, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. ***I definitely don't need a monitor***, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (***I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750***), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3] (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100+750&amp;N=100283198%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50293" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13849" RevisionGUID="945205df-5518-4361-a2bd-a5090cd973c6" CreationDate="2020-07-31T09:23:41.940" UserId="16169" Comment="edited body" Text="I am trying to search for **miniature** receiver and transmitter for custom made **drone/helicopter**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have no special requirements outside of a size. Sure, the size doesn't matter that much in the remote controller, but in the drone itself, it should be as small as possible so the drone can be too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course, I know about all these single board computers especially made for IoT purposes like: ESP8266, Raspberry Pi (Zero), Arduino MKR with WiFi, or even MAMBA F722 MINI, but all of them seem to be too large for its purpose - to build the smallest drone possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I believe that people who create these RC vehicles will know about something smaller. I really appreciate your answers. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50294" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="ded7e3c8-7201-4d37-85cc-7625399ad7be" CreationDate="2020-07-31T21:54:47.077" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 619 characters in body" Text="I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. ***I want lots of cores (&gt;=12) and lots of RAM (&gt;=24 GB), but I don't need much disk space***, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. ***I definitely don't need a monitor***, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (***I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750***), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3] (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100+750&amp;N=100283198%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50297" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12972" RevisionGUID="c341eb7c-8202-4e7c-9375-1a0db44cb726" CreationDate="2020-07-31T22:02:25.517" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50309" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13853" RevisionGUID="43b9b5a1-b499-41ef-9595-57c394f41296" CreationDate="2020-08-01T03:46:29.000" UserId="203" Text="I'll second the recommendation for the Thinkpads—you might even be able to grab a T or X series within your budget depending on launch offers—but since you mentioned Linux, I thought it would be remiss not to mention there are a couple of 4800H laptops with options for Linux preinstalled, no OS or even no storage, including the [Schenker VIA Pro](https://bestware.com/de/schenker-via-15-pro.html), the [Tuxedo Pulse 15](https://www.tuxedocomputers.com/en/Linux-Hardware/Linux-Notebooks/15-16-inch/TUXEDO-Book-Pulse-15-Gen1.tuxedo) and the new Slimbook, [KDE](https://kde.slimbook.es/) or [otherwise](https://slimbook.es/en/store/slimbook-pro-x-15/pro-x-15-amd-comprar), all roughly at that £/$/€1000 price point. Some of them plan to offer 4K OLED displays as upgrades, but that would probably take things outside your price range. They're also a good deal cheaper if you can import from a Chinese reseller, say through a friend travelling through or living there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I understand it from a couple of reddit threads [(1)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AMDLaptops/comments/hunyv6/my_mechrevo_code01_tongfang_pf5nu1g_review/) [(2)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AMDLaptops/comments/hwiigs/tuxedo_pulse_15_and_kde_slimbook/), the chassis is from the same ODM, TongFeng. Some benchmarks are available [here](https://www.notion.so/Mechrevo-Code-01-TongFang-PF5NU1G-Information-8009025fdefc40118ab0ea973e7e0988) and a comprehensive english review on [youtube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obIAXDZkKbs). The battery life seems to be quite good thanks to the large 91 Wh battery, and you should see well over 5 hours of battery life, closer to 8 to 12 hours. Gaming laptops with the new Ryzen and a larger ~90 Wh battery option should honestly achieve similar run times under light to idle loads, and even a smaller batter should meet your 5-hour target, though obviously if you wanted to use the GPU heavily for video editing or something that would take a toll.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The performance may different significantly due to cooling, so looking at the specific models you plan on buying would be better, but there are quite a few comparison benchmarks of the Ryzen APUs from, e.g. [Notebookcheck](https://www.notebookcheck.net/R7-4700U-vs-R7-4800U-vs-R7-4800H_11683_11681_11677.247596.0.html). Notably, the 4800U seems to trade blows in single core performance especially, though the increased power limits shows in multi-core workloads. They are likely essentially the same chip with different binning and enabled cores. The Vega 7 iGP is honestly [comparable](https://www.notebookcheck.net/GeForce-GTX-1050-Mobile-vs-GeForce-MX250-vs-Vega-7_7503_9561_10098.247598.0.html) with the MX250 performance-wise, and I doubt you will have any problems with lighter games like Minecraft. Heavier games may require lowered settings, resolution or both to run at 60 FPS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The display covers 100% sRGB, which is not bad, though at the price range of a euro reseller you can probably get the better panels on, e.g. the TUF A15 which would have similar gamuts and a high refresh rate. Unfortunately, it does not have a second M.2 slot or a 2.5&quot; drive bay, which limits expandability, and the keyboard backlight is poor. Overall, I would recommend it over laptops from larger OEMs if the combination of the H-series CPU and 1.5 kg weight interests you, if you want the convenience of the SSD-less configuration option or preinstalled Linux, or if you can get it from China yourself for a lower price. Otherwise, the Thinkpad will likely a good deal cheaper, and at your full budget you might be looking at laptops with the RTX 2060 instead. If you do end up going with a laptop from a more well known company, consider mentioning it to their sales that you don't need a Windows or a drive included. It's possible that they'll be willing to bump up some other hardware, include free accessories or even give you a discount, and the worst that could happen is they'll say no." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50313" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13855" RevisionGUID="dc99ac05-9705-497c-b13b-fb20c5b3caa0" CreationDate="2020-08-01T06:52:31.450" UserId="203" Text="There are quite a few Ryzen 5 4500U laptops *just barely* with in your price range, offering a significant improvement in performance over the last generation ([~20% or more over the 3500U][1]), but many of them are 14&quot;. The new Lenovo Ideapad 5 is one of these with a 15.6&quot; display—the 8/128 GB version is $597 but out of stock [on Newegg][2]. The 256 GB model is in stock at the moment, but $10 more expensive. If that increase in performance (and power efficiency as well) is worth $150 to you, those are where you want to start looking. In an ordinary office workload though, it wouldn't matter much, and either would be significantly faster than a laptop from 5 years ago. If you give examples of some of the more demanding things you might want to do, things that maybe feel slow on your current laptop, we'd be able to give a firmer answer whether those extra cores will be helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Vivobook 15 is a good budget laptop, but [on Newegg][3], a similar model with the 3500U and 512 GB SSD is being sold for the same price of $440, refurbished instead of used/like new. It also has Windows 10 Home instead of Pro, though since it's a work laptop you might want to ask if your company has Enterprise volume licensing. I would definitely recommend the Ryzen 5 model if you do decide to go with the last generation Vivobook, though I'll note that if you find a laptop with with a newer Ryzen 3, the 4300U has similar performance to the Ryzen 5 3500U.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.notebookcheck.net/R5-3500U-vs-R5-4500U-vs-R3-3200U_11161_11687_11191.247596.0.html&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/blue-lenovo-ideapad-3-81w4/p/1TS-000E-0MVB0&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/slate-gray-asus-vivobook-f512da-rs51/p/1TS-001A-010H9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50332" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1695" RevisionGUID="31d71164-b302-4196-b872-955742f5d0dc" CreationDate="2020-08-02T00:51:18.157" UserId="527" Comment="Updated links to use HTTPS and i18n wikipedia link" Text="Some basic searches:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://lifehacker.com/five-best-travel-routers-1452441479&#xD;&#xA;* https://www.techhive.com/article/2150741/laptop-accessories/tested-6-new-travel-routers-that-can-deploy-a-secure-wi-fi-network-almost-anywhere.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main use scenario: traveling to some place where with no WiFi. Going to internet cafe that has some old computers connected via ethernet cable but again - no WiFi. iPhones and MacBooks don't have ethernet cable so I would like to transparently plug into existing wired connection and access internet on my devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Requirements for the router:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* ethernet in&#xD;&#xA;* ethernet out&#xD;&#xA;* powered from battery pack&#xD;&#xA;* (optional nice to have) https://wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet - I don't think it is widely available just yet...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some potential candidates / no affiliates / collected from links on the top:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://www.amazon.com/BR-6258n-150Mbps-Wireless-Broadband-Supported/dp/B0069JA7M2&#xD;&#xA;* https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-PR2000-100EUS-Universal-Extender-Travel/dp/B00I4UQ0AC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are both reasonably priced. Are there any other models / any other considerations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50333" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1695" RevisionGUID="31d71164-b302-4196-b872-955742f5d0dc" CreationDate="2020-08-02T00:51:18.157" Comment="Proposed by 527 approved by 9825, 203 edit id of 1077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50338" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13858" RevisionGUID="987574d3-3607-4598-8d58-e0b8bf3cc796" CreationDate="2020-08-02T07:57:05.943" UserId="16177" Text="I have [came across this video][1]. The vLogger has a mic in his hand. The same can be seen in [his shirt neck in this another video][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm trying to order this from [Amazon in India but I cannot find it][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted a decent looking mic basically for video recordings. Please suggest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://youtu.be/kb7-mq-6MXM?t=11&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://youtu.be/-5YG_lu0IGE&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.in/s?k=collar%20mic%20for%20mobile&amp;adgrpid=58361394185&amp;ext_vrnc=hi&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykGqAmm9J248qIe7Nn6hU6PcHoPx_SQFcQnXoVF669hVuAFkQriDI_IaAuBIEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=398048338531&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvlocphy=9062209&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=12404205154276959212&amp;hvtargid=kwd-431409553134&amp;hydadcr=28681_1997824&amp;tag=googinhydr1-21&amp;ref=pd_sl_4ibn5odsi1_e" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50339" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13858" RevisionGUID="987574d3-3607-4598-8d58-e0b8bf3cc796" CreationDate="2020-08-02T07:57:05.943" UserId="16177" Text="Looking for a decent small mic for video recording" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50340" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13858" RevisionGUID="987574d3-3607-4598-8d58-e0b8bf3cc796" CreationDate="2020-08-02T07:57:05.943" UserId="16177" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50344" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="e519a161-4d27-4682-aa7f-c029c4fb9089" CreationDate="2020-08-02T17:01:50.177" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50347" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13860" RevisionGUID="7f750e8b-a1fe-4524-bdde-885af4856c3c" CreationDate="2020-08-03T19:40:12.727" UserId="16184" Text="I have a MacBook Pro with Thunderbolt 3 ports, to which I want to connect an Allen &amp; Heath digital mixing desk via USB to be able to capture multi-channel audio.  This desk uses isochronous mode USB 2 to send audio in real time, but there are known incompatibility issues that cause audible artefacts in the data when connecting this desk to a USB 3 port (on an Intel xHCI controller), even though USB 3 is _supposed_ to be fully backwards-compatible with USB 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I was wondering whether there exists a docking station or adaptor of some kind that would connect to the laptop via Thunderbolt 3, and offer a **true** USB 2 EHCI controller with one or more type A USB 2 ports (possibly in addition to the usual suite of HDMI/TB3/DisplayPort/USB3 ports).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A USB-C to USB-A adaptor/dock doesn't work, as this uses the laptop's built-in USB controller, which is xHCI.  And every TB3 dock I can find offers only USB 3, not USB 2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this item](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079GWKCWF) on Amazon which claims to offer one USB 3 and one USB 2 port, but while the latter port is USB 2 in terms of the hardware (4 pins), it is still attached to a USB 3 xHCI controller inside the box and suffered the same audible artefacts as the built in xHCI controller in the laptop.  I need something that will appear to Mac OS system information as a &quot;USB 2.0 Bus&quot; rather than as a USB 2 device on a USB 3.0 or 3.1 bus.  I suppose there's the option of a TB3 PCIe external enclosure into which I could plug a PCIe EHCI controller card, but given most such enclosures are designed for things like external GPU cards that would be massive overkill." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50348" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13860" RevisionGUID="7f750e8b-a1fe-4524-bdde-885af4856c3c" CreationDate="2020-08-03T19:40:12.727" UserId="16184" Text="Thunderbolt 3 dock with USB 2.0 (*not* USB 3) controller" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50349" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13860" RevisionGUID="7f750e8b-a1fe-4524-bdde-885af4856c3c" CreationDate="2020-08-03T19:40:12.727" UserId="16184" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50361" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13847" RevisionGUID="e70e5522-6b37-4fc7-9c8d-d7fa8100ddff" CreationDate="2020-08-04T12:19:41.513" UserId="16158" Comment="Addendum on custom configurations." Text="I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. ***I want lots of cores (≥12) and lots of RAM (≥24 GB), but I don't need much disk space***, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. ***I definitely don't need a monitor***, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my [requirements for NewEgg][2] (***I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750***), I got nothing but blade servers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Focusing primarily on this [HP Proliant DL360P][3] (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering ***if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack***. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note (in response to [@Wasabi][4] in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't *know* if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the &quot;bare metal casing&quot; counts as &quot;some other form factor&quot; for the purposes of my question. &quot;Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?&quot; also counts. ***I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.***&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit to add: I'm also willing to do *some* custom modifications to hardware (e.g., add RAM) after the fact.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100+750&amp;N=100283198%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13865" RevisionGUID="07c2f7d1-9698-4add-80ab-1cf1146cf188" CreationDate="2020-08-04T19:40:18.343" UserId="14061" Text="&gt; I want lots of cores (≥12) and lots of RAM (≥24 GB), but I don't need much disk space&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;your &lt; $750 and lots of cores is contradictory, but...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The basic desktop/workstation (traditionally with a monitor) are no more than dual socket- meaning only 2 cpu's.  They don't offer that much real estate, not like a rack server and you won't have many DIMM slots but they typically do 128GB of RAM no problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not *blade server* but **rack server** is what generally offers the most real estate and would allow for up to 4 cpu sockets.  And would have the most DIMM slots available providing for 768GB to 1.5TB of RAM.  *$750 would only buy you a few DIMMS here*.  But a rack server is not required to be put in a rack, you can lay them on a desk, they will take up some space obviously, or you can lay them on their side on the floor against the desk.  Expect to pay over $10,000 for a 4 socket rack server having whatever N-core cpu's and however much RAM.  Try Dell's online build your own for something like 4-socket PowerEdge R840 to get an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/poweredge-r840/pe_r840_12850_vi_vp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also check out supermicro. For what it sounds like you are wanting, look for a used/refurb rack server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can sometimes buy all rack server components and build your own, but expect to pay over $750 just for the main board that is rack server style.  Then add in power supply, cpu, ram, fans, and so on." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50366" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13865" RevisionGUID="ae86bb39-2df1-4737-ac6e-b417108d4e7f" CreationDate="2020-08-04T19:47:37.103" UserId="14061" Comment="added 506 characters in body" Text="&gt; I want lots of cores (≥12) and lots of RAM (≥24 GB), but I don't need much disk space&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;your &lt; $750 and lots of cores is contradictory, but...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The basic desktop/workstation (traditionally with a monitor) are no more than dual socket- meaning only 2 cpu's.  They don't offer that much real estate, not like a rack server and you won't have many DIMM slots but they typically do 128GB of RAM no problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not *blade server* but **rack server** is what generally offers the most real estate and would allow for up to 4 cpu sockets.  And would have the most DIMM slots available providing for 768GB to 1.5TB of RAM.  *$750 would only buy you a few DIMMS here*.  But a rack server is not required to be put in a rack, you can lay them on a desk, they will take up some space obviously, or you can lay them on their side on the floor against the desk.  Expect to pay over $10,000 for a 4 socket rack server having whatever N-core cpu's and however much RAM.  Try Dell's online build your own for something like 4-socket PowerEdge R840 to get an idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/poweredge-r840/pe_r840_12850_vi_vp&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also check out supermicro. For what it sounds like you are wanting, look for a used/refurb rack server.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can sometimes buy all rack server components and build your own, but expect to pay over $750 just for the main board that is rack server style.  Then add in power supply, cpu, ram, fans, and so on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a *blade* from a *blade server* can be tricky depending on what it's from, it implies its a blade of a larger system so don't assume a blade removed from that kind of system can operate on it's own like a standalone computer.  So in this context no don't expect to use a blade without the rest of the blade server.  If you have the entire blade server, then that implies you then have multiple blades... installed into some chassis.  This chassis whether that's installed in a rack isn't a requirement." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50377" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="0100c93f-6d35-4b84-945c-93c91040c5ae" CreationDate="2020-08-05T03:53:29.503" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization, tags edited" Text="So, basically, I'm looking for any kind of Android tablet with tiny bezels and the size of the iPad Pro 11&quot;. If the aspect ratio is somewhere from 4:3 to a 4.3:3, is a super plus (actual aspect ratio for that mentioned iPad).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use it for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Reading&#xD;&#xA; 2. Media consumption&#xD;&#xA; 3. Web surfing&#xD;&#xA; 4. And all the light stuff that tablets are for&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to pay those $800+, simply because I don't need all the power of that iPad. I don't need a pencil, nor any other fancy things. Just tiny bezels, that aspect ratio (if possible), and Android.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you know any?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50378" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="0100c93f-6d35-4b84-945c-93c91040c5ae" CreationDate="2020-08-05T03:53:29.503" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization, tags edited" Text="Is there a tablet with the same bezels and size as iPad Pro 11&quot;?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50379" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="0100c93f-6d35-4b84-945c-93c91040c5ae" CreationDate="2020-08-05T03:53:29.503" UserId="4495" Comment="capitalization, tags edited" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50380" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="0100c93f-6d35-4b84-945c-93c91040c5ae" CreationDate="2020-08-05T03:53:29.503" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 9825, 203 edit id of 1086" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50391" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13868" RevisionGUID="c85d6b13-274c-4909-a2b3-52bcd9b6a6d8" CreationDate="2020-08-05T18:14:16.897" UserId="16194" Text="I'm trying to achieve two goals.&#xD;&#xA;1. Use my headset without plugging it into my phone&#xD;&#xA;2. configure smart lock with the bluetooth so my cell phone stays unlocked while in my home office.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have a Sennheiser SD Pro 2 with an adapter cable plugged into the &quot;phone&quot; port on the base station that converts to a 3.5mm TRRS connector that I plug into my Galaxy S10.  This allows me to use the Sennheiser headset for phone calls on my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a Bluetooth device that I can connect to the TRRS jack and then pair with my phone so that I can use the Sennheiser headset in the same way that I do now. The Bluetooth device and phone would remain on my desk, but I would be able to move around my house with the headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the products I've found are for transmit *OR* receive, or have a built in mic and only *send* audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the device I'm looking exist?  &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50392" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13868" RevisionGUID="c85d6b13-274c-4909-a2b3-52bcd9b6a6d8" CreationDate="2020-08-05T18:14:16.897" UserId="16194" Text="Is there a Bluetooth device that one can connect a wired headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50393" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13868" RevisionGUID="c85d6b13-274c-4909-a2b3-52bcd9b6a6d8" CreationDate="2020-08-05T18:14:16.897" UserId="16194" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50404" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11304" RevisionGUID="65c8b04d-a130-4771-868b-b717b9e62282" CreationDate="2020-08-06T00:00:45.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50417" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="465ac3c5-3639-46a4-bec9-0add0c987e99" CreationDate="2020-08-06T13:03:00.837" UserId="16201" Text="After a little investigation and finding a balance between price and features, I got a great deal getting the [Xiaomi Air2 SE][1]. They seemed great on paper, but after trying them, their greatest feature is that they are cheap and they sound okay. In other situations, that would be enough for me to return them, but I decided to compromise, even if the play/pause feature is poorly designed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what I couldn't stand with is the pairing system. In theory, putting them in the box, closing it, and opening it again is enough for them to start on discover mode… unless you have them paired in another device already. In that case, they automatically pair back to what you had before. Okay, turn off the 1st device Bluetooth, close the lid, open it again. It may take up to 20 seconds or several tries for the 2nd device to recognize them. That's okay, it's their first pairing. Let's switch back to connect to the 1st device. On the first try, it unpaired from the device, tried pairing again (on its own), and told me the passcode was incorrect. Worst thing? This 1st device is a Xiaomi Note 8 Pro, which in theory has extra pairing capabilities with this device (yet they don't work). So, to sum up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to my working process, I move back and forth between different devices, connect to one, then to another, back to the first, etc. I'm done with cables and headsets (I had some Marshall Major II Bluetooth, and they are not cheap, tight, break easily and lose the wireless capabilities after some time. No more). **Is there a relatively cheap wireless earbud that doesn't suck at pairing and reconnecting?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001060321019.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50418" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="465ac3c5-3639-46a4-bec9-0add0c987e99" CreationDate="2020-08-06T13:03:00.837" UserId="16201" Text="Wireless earbuds with great device pairing and reconnecting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50419" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="465ac3c5-3639-46a4-bec9-0add0c987e99" CreationDate="2020-08-06T13:03:00.837" UserId="16201" Text="&lt;earphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="056d1db4-aa2b-4e23-8bfb-2461155176f4" CreationDate="2020-08-06T14:39:43.860" UserId="16201" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="After a little investigation and finding a balance between price and features, I got a great deal getting the [Xiaomi Air2 SE][1]. They seemed great on paper, but after trying them, their greatest feature is that they are cheap and they sound okay. In other situations, that would be enough for me to return them, but I decided to compromise, even if the play/pause feature is poorly designed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what I couldn't stand with is the pairing system. In theory, putting them in the box, closing it, and opening it again is enough for them to start on discover mode… unless you have them paired in another device already. In that case, they automatically pair back to what you had before. Okay, turn off the 1st device Bluetooth, close the lid, open it again. It may take up to 20 seconds or several tries for the 2nd device to recognize them. That's okay, it's their first pairing. Let's switch back to connect to the 1st device. On the first try, it unpaired from the device, tried pairing again (on its own), and told me the passkey was incorrect. Worst thing? This 1st device is a Xiaomi Note 8 Pro, which in theory has extra pairing capabilities with this device (yet they don't work). So, to sum up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to my working process, I move back and forth between different devices, connect to one, then to another, back to the first, etc. I'm done with cables and headsets (I had some Marshall Major II Bluetooth, and they are not cheap, tight, break easily and lose the wireless capabilities after some time. No more). **Is there a relatively cheap wireless earbud that doesn't suck at pairing and reconnecting?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001060321019.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50426" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13876" RevisionGUID="9856bf52-55ff-4551-9bd9-02e0e0ef857b" CreationDate="2020-08-06T15:16:09.113" UserId="16200" Text="This is quite a big question, there are lots of options with various limitations,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Simple small options could include this [Seeed ARM 433Mhz RF link kit][1] these are just transmitter &amp; receivers they would need a separate microcontroller to operate them as well as some form of battery and voltage regulator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But in depending on what you want you could also use a BT module Like the [HC-05][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Seeed-Studio/113990010?qs=SElPoaY2y5Kz%252BZ3%2FqUmR2Q==&amp;vip=1&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1OpeZmfXlFB7eJOEZaWPZ9t6vtfjcXf5EVhagu_4X9d3KKcujwFiHBoCX7oQAvD_BwE&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/arduino-and-hc-05-bluetooth-module-tutorial/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50427" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="d2d5b002-d879-406d-b7d5-f35051706a75" CreationDate="2020-08-06T16:07:15.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13877" RevisionGUID="7ead8e65-9c35-4b46-99ac-1ee044beaad7" CreationDate="2020-08-06T23:15:26.517" UserId="16205" Text="The picture shown is adapter card nvme SSD to PCIE x1 and not x4 though. Theoretically that the SSD will function with 1 lane from the x1 slot but nvme SSD need to fully function from a x4 pcie slot. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50433" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13877" RevisionGUID="ef916de3-6dcb-4b8e-a3e5-362ffc65f197" CreationDate="2020-08-06T23:24:54.517" UserId="16205" Comment="added 331 characters in body" Text="The picture shown is adapter card nvme SSD to PCIE x1 and not x4 though. Theoretically that the SSD will function with 1 lane from the x1 slot but nvme SSD need to fully function from an x4 pcie slot. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But I found a much appropriate adapter card not from a x1 pcie slot but from a x4 slot and supports 1 nvme SSD and 1 m.2 data ssd. But my question is, was the x1 converted to x4?or it's just still x1 allowing the ssds to work at x1 lane?&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/2DGHF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50437" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13879" RevisionGUID="2966173a-827f-4d4d-9ea3-3c8c6a9d2992" CreationDate="2020-08-07T03:35:16.040" UserId="16206" Text="I'm using my smartphone (Samsung Note 10+) for online classes. I use Zoom for video-conference.&#xD;&#xA;I mount the phone on a tripod and position it so that my writing desk is visible. &#xD;&#xA;I then use SmartView (i.e. Miracast) to mirror my phone screen to a TV using Amazon Fire-stick. Speaker and Mic are from the smartphone only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This setup works quite well except for the following problem - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I frequently need to mute/unmute. The only way to do this is to reach out to the smartphone screen which is very inconvenient (it is mounted on a tripod facing down on my writing desk)*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I solve this? Can I buy some external mic mute/un-mute switch? Or some other hardware? Any other tips?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I searched online for some products could not find many options. Bluetooth speakerphones from Jabra etc get very expensive for me)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50438" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13879" RevisionGUID="2966173a-827f-4d4d-9ea3-3c8c6a9d2992" CreationDate="2020-08-07T03:35:16.040" UserId="16206" Text="Video-Conferencing: External mute / un-mute switch for smartphone (Samsung Note 10+)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50439" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13879" RevisionGUID="2966173a-827f-4d4d-9ea3-3c8c6a9d2992" CreationDate="2020-08-07T03:35:16.040" UserId="16206" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50440" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13880" RevisionGUID="6a9bdd90-d39b-42b8-ad34-b1a130264d19" CreationDate="2020-08-07T06:07:50.167" UserId="16207" Text="You probably just need a better microphone with an on/off or mute/unmute button. I'd focus your searches around &quot;vlog microphone&quot; or &quot;android mic mute button&quot;. Vloggers will use external mics for better sound, although very few that I've found have built-in mute buttons. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's I think half of what you might be looking for:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Condenser-Indicator-Gooseneck-Recording/dp/B07N2WRHMY/ref=psdc_3015406011_t3_B07WLWN2ZT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOFqb.jpg&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Big beautiful mute button right on the base, but its input is USB, so maybe a USB to Headset adapter along with it: https://www.amazon.com/usb-headset-adapter/s?k=usb+headset+adapter&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This bluetooth headset has a mute button &quot;on the headset arm&quot;: https://www.amazon.com/YAMAY-Bluetooth-Cancelling-Headphones-Microphone/dp/B07L13Y3K2/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=android+mic+mute+button&amp;qid=1596779860&amp;sr=8-4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you could go with a smaller earpiece perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/TOKSEL-Bluetooth-Cancelling-Hands-Free-Compatible/dp/B0882WC8FX/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&amp;keywords=android+mic+mute+button&amp;qid=1596779860&amp;sr=8-8&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or maybe this desk microphone with volume/mute controls: https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-MAONO-Condenser-Headphone-Livestream/dp/B07SGB9329/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&amp;keywords=android+mic+mute+button&amp;qid=1596779860&amp;sr=8-14&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50441" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="7e0ecbc8-8b8b-4369-ac77-55fd0dae25a1" CreationDate="2020-08-07T07:39:20.807" UserId="16201" Comment="added 6 characters in body; edited title" Text="After a little investigation and finding a balance between price and features, I got a great deal getting the [Xiaomi Air2 SE][1]. They seemed great on paper, but after trying them, their greatest feature is that they are cheap and they sound okay. In other situations, that would be enough for me to return them, but I decided to compromise, even if the play/pause feature is poorly designed. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But what I couldn't stand with is the pairing system. In theory, putting them in the box, closing it, and opening it again is enough for them to start on discover mode… unless you have them paired in another device already. In that case, they automatically pair back to what you had before. Okay, turn off the 1st device Bluetooth, close the lid, open it again. It may take up to 20 seconds or several tries for the 2nd device to recognize them. That's okay, it's their first pairing. Let's switch back to connect to the 1st device. On the first try, it unpaired from the device, tried pairing again (on its own), and told me the passkey was incorrect. Worst thing? This 1st device is a Xiaomi Note 8 Pro, which in theory has extra pairing capabilities with this device (yet they don't work). So, to sum up:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Due to my working process, I move back and forth between different devices, connect to one, then to another, back to the first, etc. I'm done with cables and headsets (I had some Marshall Major II Bluetooth, and they were expensive, tight, break easily, and lost the wireless capabilities after some time. No more). **Are there any relatively cheap wireless earphones that don't suck at pairing and reconnecting?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001060321019.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50442" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13875" RevisionGUID="7e0ecbc8-8b8b-4369-ac77-55fd0dae25a1" CreationDate="2020-08-07T07:39:20.807" UserId="16201" Comment="added 6 characters in body; edited title" Text="Wireless earphones with great device pairing and reconnecting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50443" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="13879" RevisionGUID="b76a4484-5116-4f70-a0b7-8b0606f84182" CreationDate="2020-08-07T11:54:05.270" UserId="24" Comment="102" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:24,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;peterh - Reinstate Monica&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="50444" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="13879" RevisionGUID="69ad1238-6a70-490d-81c5-4354710edb8c" CreationDate="2020-08-07T13:27:48.580" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="50455" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13881" RevisionGUID="c111df03-38e7-405e-83e0-7370aec083f4" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:26:25.617" UserId="9248" Text="I have noticed that many USB charging cables get disconnected from the phone (or sometimes the charger) rather easily. I am looking for the opposite: a USB-C to USB-C, or USB-C to USB-A cable, that will not easily come unstuck by accident, say if someone trips over the cord. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any brands of cables that are known for having a particularly tight connection? Or is there some other solution? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50456" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13881" RevisionGUID="c111df03-38e7-405e-83e0-7370aec083f4" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:26:25.617" UserId="9248" Text="USB-C cord with tight contact" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50457" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13881" RevisionGUID="c111df03-38e7-405e-83e0-7370aec083f4" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:26:25.617" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50458" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13882" RevisionGUID="323f60bf-3d42-4502-8b12-84a8e17b98da" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:46:18.037" UserId="16213" Text="I am looking for a tracking device that actively transmits and uses GPS or mobile networks for tracking, as well as transmitting the information to an application. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The more miniscule or lightweight, the better, unless it puts battery life below a reasonable use threshold (say, a few days). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Spatial resolution is good but not essential. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally the price of the service should not be too high, and the price of the device needs to be reasonable enough to buy a few of them (i.e. under 200 USD). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50459" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13882" RevisionGUID="323f60bf-3d42-4502-8b12-84a8e17b98da" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:46:18.037" UserId="16213" Text="Looking for small, lightweight tracking device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50460" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13882" RevisionGUID="323f60bf-3d42-4502-8b12-84a8e17b98da" CreationDate="2020-08-09T01:46:18.037" UserId="16213" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50461" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13711" RevisionGUID="226be4a7-128d-4ff6-8a24-d57d0f8590c0" CreationDate="2020-08-09T02:00:15.323" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50477" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13886" RevisionGUID="08d3ca75-5c5d-41f4-88d5-46249a4692cd" CreationDate="2020-08-10T14:05:31.047" UserId="14440" Text="The RTX 3080 arriving it seems in September, I started to build my new rig.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I selected 3 processors for this but I'm still really hesitant, I actually need help in choosing:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. 10700K:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Pros**: Currently one of the most efficient processors for gaming, it outperforms the Ryzen 3900X, beaten by the 10900K but it's not worth it. Cheaper than the Ryzen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Cons**: About everything else: low in multi threading, 14nm, no overclocking except Z card, does not natively support RAM&gt; 2933, PCIe 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. Ryzen 3.9:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Pros**: excellent in multi-threading (FS 2020?), Cost per thread much lower than Intel, PCIe 4.0, Tdp 105W, 7nm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Cons**: slightly less performing than the Intel on gaming and it may get worst with the RTX 3080, can't really be overclocked over 100Mhz, can lose MT performance once overclocked&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. 11700K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Pros**: Pcie 4.0, 10nm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    **Cons**: not yet released, could be announced announced on September 2, price to come?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a small concern about the Pcie 4.0: I will have an RTX 3080, a sound card (usually used in optics but sometimes in analog, that's why I keep it), an Areca card for the RAID, and an Asus 10Gpbs Ethernet card (which I will keep because the signal is better than via the motherboard).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I mainly use gaming, even if I will be using flight simulator 2020, I work remotely and study with scientific Python, and sometimes uses Matlab but not enough to justify my choice on this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It clearly seems to me that the best processor is the Ryzen, but I'm not sure if it's the best **for me**. It would cost me $ 150 more with lower in-game performance, and I don't think I will win on the motherboard (an MSI Z490 e gaming wifi costs me $ 270).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do you think the PCIe ports will be bottle-necked? If not, which processor would you take in my place?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This computer will last for 5 years, this is always what I do: build a balanced computer, keep it for 5 years, then replace it and sell the rig while it's still useful for gaming even when it's obsolete, I went from gtx580 to gtx1080 and now rtx3080. So this is a consideration to keep in mind, I want no bottle-neck and all my components to be balanced together.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: the 10600K is not in the list because the difference is barely $ 40.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50478" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13886" RevisionGUID="08d3ca75-5c5d-41f4-88d5-46249a4692cd" CreationDate="2020-08-10T14:05:31.047" UserId="14440" Text="Which CPU should I choose ? 10700K, Ryzen 3900X or 11700K?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50479" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13886" RevisionGUID="08d3ca75-5c5d-41f4-88d5-46249a4692cd" CreationDate="2020-08-10T14:05:31.047" UserId="14440" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50496" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13890" RevisionGUID="b7e4e04c-4227-4850-91ae-564fd6c11651" CreationDate="2020-08-10T18:15:26.010" UserId="16218" Text="I'm looking for a docking station that works with my current laptop (HP Pavilion 15-AY013NR) but will also work with a new laptop. The current one has USB 2/3 ports and no USB C, but I expect the new one to have USB C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like the docking station to support at least two of HDMI, DisplayPort, and VGA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or would it be better to get a docking station that just connects to laptop via USB C, but then use an adapter to plug my current laptop into that? If so, which adapter would I want to use? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50497" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13890" RevisionGUID="b7e4e04c-4227-4850-91ae-564fd6c11651" CreationDate="2020-08-10T18:15:26.010" UserId="16218" Text="Docking station that connects via both USB 3 and USB C, has various video interface ports" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50498" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13890" RevisionGUID="b7e4e04c-4227-4850-91ae-564fd6c11651" CreationDate="2020-08-10T18:15:26.010" UserId="16218" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50517" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13895" RevisionGUID="36c4e9f5-d33a-4aa4-b61a-4626557d598b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T05:28:32.590" UserId="16223" Text="Which phones would you recommend that are affordable for person living in third world and support custom, open source rom like Lineage or Cyanogen ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap and affordable, bonus if under 200&#xD;&#xA;- Have as little amount of closed firmware as possible&#xD;&#xA; - Support custom ROM&#xD;&#xA; - Usable for person in late 20s" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50518" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13895" RevisionGUID="36c4e9f5-d33a-4aa4-b61a-4626557d598b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T05:28:32.590" UserId="16223" Text="What are some affordable devices with foss rom support?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50519" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13895" RevisionGUID="36c4e9f5-d33a-4aa4-b61a-4626557d598b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T05:28:32.590" UserId="16223" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50520" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="ae821385-2e57-4dbc-8599-9a50e8e63df1" CreationDate="2020-08-12T06:06:00.583" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13898" RevisionGUID="28db1510-b475-4d2d-941a-59fa5e73627b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T09:18:03.720" UserId="10307" Text="Consider this μSD extension cable:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Photo of such a cable][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A closeup next to an actual μSD card shows the issue:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Male end of extension cable next to actual μSD card][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the problem is this, the SD card is much smaller in width and depth than the male end of this cable. For my use case I'd need something that is at most as deep as the SD card with either a 90° bent cable or with a cable flexible enough so I can bend it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what I am looking for is:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* a μSD extension cable ~0.5 meter&#xD;&#xA;* a male end whose non-flexible part is no deeper than an actual μSD card&#xD;&#xA;* a 90° bent cable or a cable flexible enough to endure that right where the cable ends at the male end&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXgLV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKGJ5.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50526" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13898" RevisionGUID="28db1510-b475-4d2d-941a-59fa5e73627b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T09:18:03.720" UserId="10307" Text="μSD extension cable with specific design of the part that goes into the receptacle (&quot;male&quot; end)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50527" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13898" RevisionGUID="28db1510-b475-4d2d-941a-59fa5e73627b" CreationDate="2020-08-12T09:18:03.720" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;cable&gt;&lt;microsd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50534" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13868" RevisionGUID="468aa63f-7060-48e6-afee-ddf1a18fcdba" CreationDate="2020-08-13T05:18:26.447" UserId="16194" Comment="added 113 characters in body" Text="I'm trying to achieve two goals.&#xD;&#xA;1. Use my headset without plugging it into my phone&#xD;&#xA;2. configure smart lock with the bluetooth so my cell phone stays unlocked while in my home office.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I have a Sennheiser SD Pro 2 with an adapter cable plugged into the &quot;phone&quot; port on the base station that converts to a 3.5mm TRRS connector that I plug into my Galaxy S10.  This allows me to use the Sennheiser headset for phone calls on my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a Bluetooth device that I can connect to the TRRS jack and then pair with my phone so that I can use the Sennheiser headset in the same way that I do now. The Bluetooth device and phone would remain on my desk, but I would be able to move around my house with the headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All of the products I've found are for transmit *OR* receive, or have a built in mic and only *send* audio.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone provide a link to a product that I can currently buy or detailed instructions on how I might combine a few parts?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't mind soldering." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50535" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="cca9624c-a6aa-4ac0-9e7e-9fdf4fce91cb" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:02:24.423" UserId="16227" Text="I'm searching a Windows 10 detachable laptop with the following characteristics &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. removable screen 13'' max 15'' (I'll use it when in travel). &#xD;&#xA; 2. laptop should be able to connect to any external monitor (such as the big BenQ EW3270ZL   https://www.benq.com/en-ca/monitor/video-enjoyment/ew3270zl.html ), using HDMI other other ways when the laptop screen is not connected. (I'll use this way when at home/office)&#xD;&#xA; 3. AMD Ryzen processor 5 (7 is better)&#xD;&#xA; 4. price under $800&#xD;&#xA; 5. RAM min 8GB (more is better)&#xD;&#xA; 6. SSD min 256 GB , no mechanical HD  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows if exists a detachable AMD Laptop with above characteristics ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50536" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="cca9624c-a6aa-4ac0-9e7e-9fdf4fce91cb" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:02:24.423" UserId="16227" Text="Detachable AMD Laptops" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50537" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="cca9624c-a6aa-4ac0-9e7e-9fdf4fce91cb" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:02:24.423" UserId="16227" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50538" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="5770b0c5-c316-4005-be80-73f023bea910" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:04:47.020" UserId="16227" Comment="deleted 3 characters in body" Text="I'm searching a Windows 10 detachable laptop with the following characteristics &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. removable screen 13'' max 15'' (I'll use it when in travel). &#xD;&#xA; 2. laptop should be able to connect to any external monitor (such as the big BenQ EW3270ZL   https://www.benq.com/en-ca/monitor/video-enjoyment/ew3270zl.html ), using HDMI other other ways when the laptop screen is not connected. (I'll use this way when at home/office)&#xD;&#xA; 3. AMD Ryzen processor 3, 5 or 7 . &#xD;&#xA; 4. price under $800&#xD;&#xA; 5. RAM min 8GB (more is better)&#xD;&#xA; 6. SSD min 256 GB , no mechanical HD  &#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Anyone knows if exists a detachable AMD Laptop with above characteristics ?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13903" RevisionGUID="aaa94fef-2463-40dc-927a-f72f772f7bfe" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:57:53.093" UserId="16228" Text="Is it possible to use an USB power meter like the UM24C (https://liutyi.info/um24c/) to measure the energy consumption of a smartphone (in detail, I would to measure the current drain)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![enter image description here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I'm executing an app and I would to measure the energy consumption of the smartphone when the app is in execution (of course I will not have the maximum of the accuracy, but just an estimation; better than nothing).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that it is possible (i.e. connect the USB meter to a energy source, and after connect the smartphone to the power meter), but I would like to have a confirmation about it. By the way, (i) I have a good USB cable with a low resistance, (ii) I cannot remove the battery of my smartphone, (iii) I connected the INPUT of the power meter to a power bank or a computer. It make sense?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9HJO.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13903" RevisionGUID="aaa94fef-2463-40dc-927a-f72f772f7bfe" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:57:53.093" UserId="16228" Text="USB Power Meter to measure Smartphone Energy Consumption" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13903" RevisionGUID="aaa94fef-2463-40dc-927a-f72f772f7bfe" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:57:53.093" UserId="16228" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;measurement-devices&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50542" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13904" RevisionGUID="52a112ef-bd96-4fe8-95c9-06efebb6f4f2" CreationDate="2020-08-13T14:12:14.320" UserId="16200" Text="You cannot measure the phones power consumption this way. The USB dongle will only see the current being used to charge the battery of the phone not the power the phone is drawing from the battery. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You could use an application on the phone that monitors the phone battery and logs its usage. No external device can monitor the power the phone is using. This will be a fairly inaccurate measurement just because phones can generally only reference the battery voltage to determine its charge status.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. If you are willing to risk a phone the way to do this would be to open the back of the case, get to the battery connector, de-solder the phone's positive terminal and connect a current meter in line of this rail like shown below, &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The multimeter would then be able to measure the actual amount of current being drawn from the battery by the phone. This would give you the most accurate results, but does risk damaging the phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO6JZ.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50543" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13905" RevisionGUID="c99c2adf-5bfd-42a6-88f7-ae8a33a68430" CreationDate="2020-08-13T14:51:54.627" UserId="16229" Text="I`m searching for portable monitors bigger than 15 inch. When I enter this to Amazon or Google Shopping, the monitors shown are not really portable or too small: They are thick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't want to use it in a train or something. Just take it with me, and use it at another desk, witch electrical connection. Just want to have a portable programming workspace when I`m in another city. For that I need my Laptop + 2 Monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want a portable monitor which is:&#xD;&#xA;- At least 20inch&#xD;&#xA;- Thin&#xD;&#xA;- With a kind of protection, like tablets have it. To put it above the screen when it is in my backpack&#xD;&#xA;- Battery not needed&#xD;&#xA;- Touch not needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does somebody have a suggestion." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50544" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13905" RevisionGUID="c99c2adf-5bfd-42a6-88f7-ae8a33a68430" CreationDate="2020-08-13T14:51:54.627" UserId="16229" Text="Portable Monitors bigger than 15 inch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50545" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13905" RevisionGUID="c99c2adf-5bfd-42a6-88f7-ae8a33a68430" CreationDate="2020-08-13T14:51:54.627" UserId="16229" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13906" RevisionGUID="8aea1469-c363-49cb-bae9-cf62a6f0c3b6" CreationDate="2020-08-13T15:20:17.110" UserId="14061" Text="Sweet spot for PSU efficiency generally is operating them between 40% and 60% of their rated capability.  You can look this up, see corsair for example.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The 80+ precious metal efficiency rating...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The basic 80 Plus rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 80% efficiency at 20% load, 50% load, and 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 80 Plus Bronze rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 82% efficiency at 20% load, 85% at 50% load, and 82% at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 80 Plus Silver rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 85% efficiency at 20% load, 88% at 50% load, and 85% at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 80 Plus Gold rating meas that the PSU is rated for at least 87% efficiency at 20% load, 90% at 50% load, and 87% at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The 80 Plus Platinum(bet you didn't know there was a Platinum) rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 90% efficiency at 20% load, 92% at 50% load, and 89% at 100% load.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*the higher efficiency PSU's cost more money, the depressing feeling resulting spending the extra money on one is supposed to be offset knowing that when you leave your computer on it's wasting less power.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; What is the cheapest possible PSU I can get without the risk of destroying my RX 570 GPU or any other components in my computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think you found it with that seasonic 500w for $43.  Seasonic is good, 500w is plenty.  I wouldn't hesitate to get a 400w psu to run a 120w tdp rx570 and 95w intel i5.  You're not likely to find any new good name brand reliable psu's for much less than $50. A good psu that is new will cost at least $50, it's just the way it is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Can I use an old (10 years old), generic, working PSU (my current one) that is like $10-$15 cheap that has 600w, but combine it with a surge protector and not risk my components from being fried?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a surge protector that the PSU plugs into (then surge protector plugs into wall) will not prevent a PSU going bad internally and possibly breaking your computer. Your existing 10 year old 600w psu would likely be fine.  you do not require a new PSU especially if it's in an existing pc and your just adding an RX570.  You can buy a new psu which can go bad, don't fret it.  If you're existing 600w psu has been working up till now there's no reason to think it won't continue to work.  Post the make/model of your existing 600w psu.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A full modular psu is nice because you won't have a rats nest of psu cables in your tower, if you care about such a thing.  It can make working inside a tower, especially a small one, much easier.  More of a visual appeal thing.  There is nothing more reliable about a modular cable psu vs non-modular one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a 250w tdp RTX2080ti running farcry5 pulls around 350w on a watt meter; max power draw observed was less than 500w (~460 if I remember) running full out stress test to see what the max power draw possible was.  Your 120w tdp Radeon RX570... any psu over 500w is wastefull and I would not overlook 350w or 400w psu's.  But you're not likely to find them much below $50 anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's a rash of counterfeit cpu's and graphics cards having old chip's firmware rewritten to be resold as a newer model.  Careful who you buy from if using amazon or ebay, which I would not.  Stick with a known retailer/reseller." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50561" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13908" RevisionGUID="f5d67fac-daf5-4401-b050-eac9aca2361a" CreationDate="2020-08-13T22:38:52.520" UserId="9248" Text="I have become convinced that the recent top AMD processors are better than Intel for most purposes, so I have started looking for a laptop with an AMD desktop processor and discrete graphics. &#xD;&#xA;There are a few laptops with AMD desktop processors that are available right now. However, for reasons of power or cooling, they only seem to go up to NVIDIA RTX 2080 graphics. My current laptop has a 2080 and a 9900k, so it is clearly possible to achieve this (with some sacrifices in  noise and heat, it must be said). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another disadvantage is the lack of 4k screen options. In these times, when even flagship smartphones can have 4K screens packed into a screen space an eight of the size, a 1080p screen on a high-end laptop, even if it has a high refresh rate, is not really good enough. The lack of Thunderbolt 3 on a lot of these models is also a downside. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any computers that currently have all or most of these characteristics?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50562" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13908" RevisionGUID="f5d67fac-daf5-4401-b050-eac9aca2361a" CreationDate="2020-08-13T22:38:52.520" UserId="9248" Text="Laptop with AMD desktop processor and RTX 2080 or better" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50563" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13908" RevisionGUID="f5d67fac-daf5-4401-b050-eac9aca2361a" CreationDate="2020-08-13T22:38:52.520" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13909" RevisionGUID="8bf8a535-28d4-4e62-882e-e37e9b43e618" CreationDate="2020-08-14T07:07:28.443" UserId="16231" Text="I'm looking for an access point with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;1. it should have a tramission power of at least 20dbm, but 26dbm or higher is desired.&#xD;&#xA;2. It should support both 2.4GHz and 5GHz, though it is not crticial.&#xD;&#xA;3. it must support a LAN input.&#xD;&#xA;4.It can be delievered at Israel (via a shipping or a local store).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13909" RevisionGUID="8bf8a535-28d4-4e62-882e-e37e9b43e618" CreationDate="2020-08-14T07:07:28.443" UserId="16231" Text="A WiFi hotspot with a high transmission power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13909" RevisionGUID="8bf8a535-28d4-4e62-882e-e37e9b43e618" CreationDate="2020-08-14T07:07:28.443" UserId="16231" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50588" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="6a329b24-2e8c-4a25-ab3d-5f05942a5be6" CreationDate="2020-08-15T13:05:55.760" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50592" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13914" RevisionGUID="2f969915-f584-40ed-b00a-59d2b4e38811" CreationDate="2020-08-16T19:00:43.553" UserId="11045" Text="I have computer with ASUS motherboard and Realtek integrated soundcard. New computer will have Asus Strix Raid Pro soundcard. It has microphone input and line input both 3.5mm. I want to connect my Rode Procaster microphone with XLR output to this computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As far as I understand I should not need phantom power for microphone but it does not work with just XLR to 3.5mm cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I do to connect mic to computer mic in? I am not planning to build costly setup, but I still want good sound.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am not very familiar with this XLR tech yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50593" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13914" RevisionGUID="2f969915-f584-40ed-b00a-59d2b4e38811" CreationDate="2020-08-16T19:00:43.553" UserId="11045" Text="Rode Procaster microphone with XLR output to 3.5mm mic input on computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50594" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13914" RevisionGUID="2f969915-f584-40ed-b00a-59d2b4e38811" CreationDate="2020-08-16T19:00:43.553" UserId="11045" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50598" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13916" RevisionGUID="e649d5e1-4a8a-4c14-bba1-3b00d42e44b0" CreationDate="2020-08-16T22:48:05.917" UserId="4350" Text="I've bought a Rode NT-USB Mini condenser microphone and am really happy with it. As expected the supplied &quot;magnetic&quot; stand transfers a lot of &quot;bumps&quot; from my desk and cherry mx red keyboard bottom-outs. I will likely mount the mic on a boom arm, but still would like a good **shock mount for this Rode NT USB Mini** with these requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**: fits Rode NT USB mini&#xD;&#xA;- **Must have**: available for shipping in the Netherlands&#xD;&#xA;- **Should have**: as small as (reasonably) possible - I didn't buy a &quot;mini&quot; mic for nothing&#xD;&#xA;- **Would like to have**: under about $50,-&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**: under $30,-&#xD;&#xA;- **Nice to have**: 'official' compatibility (I'd settle for a &quot;generic&quot; shock mount)&#xD;&#xA;- **Not important**: wire thread size (I can buy adapters)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition of course to the more subjective but most important &quot;it absorbs stuff&quot; (&quot;it works!&quot;) requirement. Just not sure how to make that a good must-have requirement...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've done a _bunch_ of things to research, including:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Check the [official &quot;Compatible Products&quot;](http://rode.com/microphones/nt-usb_mini) (none listed)&#xD;&#xA;- [Search YouTube reviews](https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=nt+mini+shock+mount) but all are reviews for the mic itself, or the PSA-1 arm, or the non-mini mic&#xD;&#xA;- [Google for it](https://www.google.com/search?q=shock+mount+for+rode+nt+usb-mini), no results&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, bottom line: **what shock mount would you recommend for the Rode NT USB Mini condenser mic**?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50599" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13916" RevisionGUID="e649d5e1-4a8a-4c14-bba1-3b00d42e44b0" CreationDate="2020-08-16T22:48:05.917" UserId="4350" Text="Small shock-mount for the Rode NT-USB Mini microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50600" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13916" RevisionGUID="e649d5e1-4a8a-4c14-bba1-3b00d42e44b0" CreationDate="2020-08-16T22:48:05.917" UserId="4350" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50623" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13922" RevisionGUID="cb2cfc59-d0a9-458a-a129-637053951eff" CreationDate="2020-08-18T07:40:46.023" UserId="16245" Text="I'm looking for a relatively cheap laptop (under 500 USD) that's thin and light so that I can remote/stream my desktop PC from anywhere inside my home network. I can hardwire into my network from anywhere so ideally the laptop would have an ethernet port. I would like the laptop to be powerful enough but not needlessly overkill because the only thing I want it to do is stream games/apps from my desktop. I'm wondering if a cheap Chromebook can do the job, but I would like the experience to be as low latency as possible, so a decent network card is required. Pretty much I would use this laptop as a monitor and keyboard connected to my desktop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I know this isn't the place, but if anyone knows the best software to use to seamlessly remote into a home network computer with close to zero latency, that would be much appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TL:DR requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- thin and light&#xD;&#xA;- good network card&#xD;&#xA;- ethernet port great to have but not required&#xD;&#xA;- cheap and not overkill&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally screen is 15&quot; but 13&quot; will work too&#xD;&#xA;- no preference on CPU manufacturer, GPU obviously can be low end onboard that can handle remote/streaming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50624" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13922" RevisionGUID="cb2cfc59-d0a9-458a-a129-637053951eff" CreationDate="2020-08-18T07:40:46.023" UserId="16245" Text="Best laptop to seamlessly remote/stream my desktop PC anywhere in my home" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50625" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13922" RevisionGUID="cb2cfc59-d0a9-458a-a129-637053951eff" CreationDate="2020-08-18T07:40:46.023" UserId="16245" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50626" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13923" RevisionGUID="775b04bd-0b9a-4993-92eb-20a20aeb2b9c" CreationDate="2020-08-18T08:07:47.880" UserId="9825" Text="Looking for an ATSC (i.e., American) OTA (over the air) HDTV television tuner. PCI bus, PCIe bus, USB 2, or USB 3 all OK to use.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must support a **Debian**/**Devuan** distro Linux media center / Personal Video Recorder app, e.g., one or more of these: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Emby][1]  &#xD;&#xA;[Jellyfin][2]  &#xD;&#xA;[JRiver Media Center][3]  &#xD;&#xA;[Kodi][4]  &#xD;&#xA;[MythTV][5]  &#xD;&#xA;[NextPVR][6]  &#xD;&#xA;[SageTV][7]  &#xD;&#xA;[Video Disk Recorder][8], or  &#xD;&#xA;[V@Home][9]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emby  &#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jellyfin    &#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JRiver_Media_Center  &#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kodi_(software)  &#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythTV  &#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NextPVR  &#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SageTV  &#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Video_Disk_Recorder  &#xD;&#xA;  [9]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VBox_Home_TV_Gateway  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50627" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13923" RevisionGUID="775b04bd-0b9a-4993-92eb-20a20aeb2b9c" CreationDate="2020-08-18T08:07:47.880" UserId="9825" Text="ATSC OTA tuner wanted" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50628" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13923" RevisionGUID="775b04bd-0b9a-4993-92eb-20a20aeb2b9c" CreationDate="2020-08-18T08:07:47.880" UserId="9825" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;hdtv&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50629" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12961" RevisionGUID="b326d282-7f60-4c90-b047-5e94241177e7" CreationDate="2020-08-18T09:04:05.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13927" RevisionGUID="e83bafad-d0dc-4541-958b-134a4efdcea8" CreationDate="2020-08-19T01:24:22.007" UserId="1921" Text="How about network based?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.silicondust.com/product/hdhomerun-duo/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDHomeRun by silcondust&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am one right now with MythTv." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50646" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13927" RevisionGUID="f30cbb23-24be-4878-88c7-e2043f82e8b9" CreationDate="2020-08-19T01:31:29.680" UserId="1921" Comment="added 50 characters in body" Text="How about network based?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.silicondust.com/product/hdhomerun-duo/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;HDHomeRun by silcondust&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am one right now with MythTv.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They also make &quot;SiliconDust HDHomeRun Connect&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13929" RevisionGUID="1b51fb24-5cc7-4e07-9fcc-c7b01397f363" CreationDate="2020-08-19T15:38:57.423" UserId="16253" Text="I am looking to make an app that detects door movement (not with motion sensors, but with a gyroscope), but I want to use Android Things for this project. I've been looking around, but so far, I haven't found anything yet." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50653" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13929" RevisionGUID="1b51fb24-5cc7-4e07-9fcc-c7b01397f363" CreationDate="2020-08-19T15:38:57.423" UserId="16253" Text="Is there an Android Things kit that includes a gyroscope sensor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50654" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13929" RevisionGUID="1b51fb24-5cc7-4e07-9fcc-c7b01397f363" CreationDate="2020-08-19T15:38:57.423" UserId="16253" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13930" RevisionGUID="0fc2cc25-8f5d-4bf5-ab1d-3f3ef8d05381" CreationDate="2020-08-19T16:05:55.537" UserId="9435" Text="No. Android Things only had the base kit. You'll have to buy and integrate any additional hardware components yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a gyroscope in an IoT project use something MPU6050 based:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;like: [Adafruit MPU-6050 6-DoF Accel and Gyro Sensor - STEMMA QT Qwiic](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3886?gclid=CjwKCAjwm_P5BRAhEiwAwRzSO5dOI-q3QZscRaq2FAWKfBTd5pfXv6Q6s5qEx50BrR6x4PsJZYkTmBoCiacQAvD_BwE)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13934" RevisionGUID="6fd6f209-7351-4487-b93c-e5b609af8978" CreationDate="2020-08-21T00:19:13.337" UserId="16230" Text="Are there any reasonably priced standard lithium ion batteries that comes closest to:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;either **3A (discharge limit)** and **3 volts** **(x16 batteries)**.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;or **4A (discharge limit)** and **4 volts** **(x12 batteries)**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They can be in any size. (18650, 18350, 18500, 26650, 1/2 AA, 2/3 AA, AA, C or D, etc, etc...) Although I prefer bigger ones, since they have more cycles and longer run time (more time before they run out of juice).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been searching everywhere and have been unable to find a lithium ion battery that comes close enough to that criteria. Any help?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50673" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13934" RevisionGUID="6fd6f209-7351-4487-b93c-e5b609af8978" CreationDate="2020-08-21T00:19:13.337" UserId="16230" Text="best lithium ion secondary battery (3A, 3V)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50674" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13934" RevisionGUID="6fd6f209-7351-4487-b93c-e5b609af8978" CreationDate="2020-08-21T00:19:13.337" UserId="16230" Text="&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13936" RevisionGUID="be12b639-32f9-427e-8354-d983c62110fe" CreationDate="2020-08-22T03:02:06.497" UserId="16262" Text="I'm running my old computer from like 6 or 7 years ago as a server, and for the most part it works fine. I have some extra money, and when it is bottlenecked, the cpu causes the bottleneck. The current cpu is an AMD Athlon X4 860k, and the motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H, and I would like to upgrade the cpu. Is there a good cpu that is compatible with the motherboard that I can purchase for under $200?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50687" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13936" RevisionGUID="be12b639-32f9-427e-8354-d983c62110fe" CreationDate="2020-08-22T03:02:06.497" UserId="16262" Text="What should I switch my cpu to?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50688" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13936" RevisionGUID="be12b639-32f9-427e-8354-d983c62110fe" CreationDate="2020-08-22T03:02:06.497" UserId="16262" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;server&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50689" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="34244214-9b4b-4a55-af13-9a60509144e6" CreationDate="2020-08-22T04:01:45.153" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50690" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="13922" RevisionGUID="b9f9b77b-d7fb-494a-a6b5-ae2070261d51" CreationDate="2020-08-22T05:46:04.883" UserId="16245" Comment="98" />
  <row Id="50717" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="5521c7b3-1a21-4479-a59b-6057577950a8" CreationDate="2020-08-24T08:02:00.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50718" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13943" RevisionGUID="1bb552d7-29fc-4d4d-9cef-576619e387b4" CreationDate="2020-08-24T14:03:13.270" UserId="10898" Text="I would like to buy hundred of very low budget laptops for a programming exam. The requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Screen &gt; 12''&#xD;&#xA;- User storage &lt; 100 MB&#xD;&#xA;- OS POSIX compliant &#xD;&#xA;- Keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- Trackpad&#xD;&#xA;- Wi-Fi&#xD;&#xA;- Ram &gt; 1 GB&#xD;&#xA;- Camera (to identify a student)&#xD;&#xA;- Price &lt; 150$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the very cheap laptops I found are already too powerful. For example on `wish` there is a 150$ laptop with 64G SSD, Bluetooth, 2GHz...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where can I find this kind of very cheap computer?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If I think in terms of independent components I can imagine a working product for less than 100$:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Raspberry Pi: 30$&#xD;&#xA;- SDcard 16GB: 5$&#xD;&#xA;- Power supply with battery: 20$&#xD;&#xA;- Keyboard: 5$&#xD;&#xA;- Mouse: 5$&#xD;&#xA;- Screen: 30$&#xD;&#xA;- Case: 5$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The goal is to run a Docker client and a web browser that could connect to a repl.it or run vscode." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50719" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13943" RevisionGUID="1bb552d7-29fc-4d4d-9cef-576619e387b4" CreationDate="2020-08-24T14:03:13.270" UserId="10898" Text="Budget laptop for exams (&lt;150$)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50720" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13943" RevisionGUID="1bb552d7-29fc-4d4d-9cef-576619e387b4" CreationDate="2020-08-24T14:03:13.270" UserId="10898" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13948" RevisionGUID="e43faf10-ef40-463a-abff-1e63a8a8a836" CreationDate="2020-08-26T09:52:16.003" UserId="12926" Text="Hard to tell from Røde's site whether the mic dimensions are with or without that little U-shaped mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's with, then you might have some luck buying an entire cheapo mic kit &amp; using the shock-mount from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Neewer NW-700](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Broadcasting-Recording-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00XJF5DMI/ref=sr_1_7?crid=J5B1UM4PRAW1&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=studio+condenser+microphone&amp;qid=1598434171&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sprefix=studio+condenser%2Cmi%2C140&amp;sr=1-7) [&amp; a myriad variants under different names] can be bought for even less than the price of a separate shock-mount. The mic itself leaves a lot to be desired, unsurprisingly, but the shock mount might be worth a look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It closes to a circular, slightly padded 50mm mic grip - with not a lot of leeway unless you want to try bending it a bit yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As good shock-mounts are balanced in tension against the weight of the mic, I doubt it's going to be perfect - but then again a shock mount for my Neumann U87 is £250 so you get what you pay for ;-)  &#xD;&#xA;The Neewer weighs 230g, but the shock-mount actually feels a bit firm for that weight, so the 500g or so of the Røde might be OK in it, if it fits. It doesn't have much give in it, but it's not as flimsy as you might imagine. You could always re-elastic it for a few pence from a haberdashery if you wanted to change the tension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, I have one of these myself, just because there are a million questions about them on Stack Exchange &amp; other forums, so I thought it was worth the 12 quid I paid for it to know how to answer questions on it. Mine calls itself a Floureon BM-800 but these things seem to be pretty much all the same, just with different badges &amp; slight external cosmetic differences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yi7YIm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yi7YI.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50732" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="4bb10dfb-6646-4b94-a327-b096a9d9378b" CreationDate="2020-08-26T10:05:15.457" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="a6955d7a-6f7c-4f3f-9c8f-fb12ff0d9ff6" CreationDate="2020-08-27T20:06:47.033" UserDisplayName="user16279" Text="What is a Low-cost 3g or 4g GSM module for Raspberry Pi ? Currently, I have a sim-800l which is not adequate for my needs. By budget is around $15-40 for a suitable solution. Could you provide me some gsm modules or hats. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50751" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="a6955d7a-6f7c-4f3f-9c8f-fb12ff0d9ff6" CreationDate="2020-08-27T20:06:47.033" UserDisplayName="user16279" Text="What is a Low-cost 3g or 4g GSM module for Raspberry Pi?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50752" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="a6955d7a-6f7c-4f3f-9c8f-fb12ff0d9ff6" CreationDate="2020-08-27T20:06:47.033" UserDisplayName="user16279" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50755" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13951" RevisionGUID="732e6e9b-25a9-4c8c-b66c-fa089bb3e9b1" CreationDate="2020-08-27T23:22:50.517" UserId="669" Text="I'm looking, ideally, for a monitor or a similarly high quality and low latency TV with 8k resolution in 16:9 aspect ratio (7680x4320), or less preferably, but probably more realistic in the coming years, 6k (5760x3240 or 6144x3160 or somewhere in that vicinity). The intended usage scenarios are playing modern video games with realistic and pixel art graphics, semi-professional video and image editing, programming (aka reading a bunch of text for long hours).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;- 16:9 ratio or approximate within reason, but not a thin &quot;wide&quot;/&quot;surround&quot; type nearing 32:9 ratio, vertical resolution is more desirable than horizontal;&#xD;&#xA;- Diagonal for 6k at least 48&quot;, preferable around 72-76&quot;, and for 8k around 98&quot;;&#xD;&#xA;  - // there are a couple 27&quot; and 32&quot; 8k PC monitors out there, but the extra resolution is impossible to fully make use of at this pixel size, so I'm going off of FullHD (1920x1080) at 24&quot;, 2560x1440 at 32&quot;, 3840x2160 at 48&quot;, so 80 horizontal resolution pixels per inch of diagonal general scaling rule;&#xD;&#xA;- Low input lag to make it suitable for gaming;&#xD;&#xA;- Full RGB color mode support, without chroma subsampling, so that the text is not any blurrier than on any common monitor;&#xD;&#xA;- Full RGB panel subpixel layout (no pentile subpixel cheating);&#xD;&#xA;- Colors and viewing angles are not significantly worse than an average IPS display panel;&#xD;&#xA;- Should work with a modern GPU over DisplayPort and HDMI connections (multiple cables requirement acceptable);&#xD;&#xA;- At least 59Hz refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be great to have:&#xD;&#xA;- 120Hz+ refresh rate support;&#xD;&#xA;- no flickering in high refresh rate mode (strobe light feature);&#xD;&#xA;- affordable price of below 2000 USD (at these specs it's more of a wish, but still one can dream);&#xD;&#xA;- repair availability - if something happens to a thing that expensive it would be cool to not just throw it in the trash;&#xD;&#xA;- no smart TV options - the dumber it is, the better, in my opinion. If it's unavoidable, well alright, maybe it can be disabled or &quot;Pi-holed&quot; somehow;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;- Curved display panel;&#xD;&#xA;- HDR support;&#xD;&#xA;- local area dimming zones;&#xD;&#xA;- high refresh rate pixel overclocking;&#xD;&#xA;- OLED/QLED panel - it is not clear if it's going to be an advantage for general PC use with lots of static pixels burning into the panel. Even video games have static heads-up display elements like health bars and [soul](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark_Souls) counters;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TVs have been known to lie about their true resolution and upsample lower resolution to their display panel's physical resolution, so that is of course unacceptable. All pixels should be there. Also, certain TVs with &quot;gaming modes&quot; which have indeed lower input lag than a default or other modes, sometimes resort to interlacing, chroma subsampling, framerate limitations and such - this is very undesirable, but not completely off the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time of writing, these devices with specs similar to desirable are seen online when searching &quot;8K monitor|tv&quot;, prices taken mostly from official manufacturer sites:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell UltraSharp UP3218K - 31.5&quot; for $5k - way too small to get any use out of the extra pixels;&#xD;&#xA;- Sony KD-85ZG9 - LCD - 85&quot;, 98&quot; - price is ~7-14k GBP for 85&quot; and [reportedly](https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/sony-kd-85zg9-8k-tv) insane 85k GBP for 98&quot;;&#xD;&#xA;- Sony Z9G (could be same model as above) - LCD - 85&quot; $8-13k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung QE75Q950R - QLED - 55&quot;, 65&quot;, 75&quot;, 82&quot;, 98&quot; - price ~4k GBP for 75&quot;, QLED panel might not be a plus in the long run and in general for use with PC;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q800T - QLED - 82&quot; $6-7k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q900 - QLED - 98&quot; $60-100k??;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q900TS - QLED - 85&quot; $8-9k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q950TS - QLED - 85&quot; $12-13k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG Z9 - OLED - 88&quot; $30k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG ZX - OLED - 88&quot; $30k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG NanoCell 99 - 75&quot; $4300-5000;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In additions to models I've found on sale above, I've found some more info about major display panel manufacturers with news of them manufacturing 8k panels (at the time of writing):&#xD;&#xA;- [AU Optronics](https://www.auo.com/en-global/application/detail/LCD_TV_Applications) lists 85&quot; 60/120Hz panels at 8k resolution, and [no 8K monitor panels](https://www.auo.com/en-global/application/detail/Monitor_Applications);&#xD;&#xA;- BOE seems to have presented various 8k TVs in recent years but I couldn't find purchasable models with worldwide shipping;&#xD;&#xA;- Sharp seems to advertise its 8k TV tech, but I couldn't find any models in shops;&#xD;&#xA;- Toshiba - same story;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like 6k is not a common resolution but some professional video camera manufacturers are advertising cameras with such resolution, and some tech news sites are posting rumors about 6k being a more reasonable potential upcoming &quot;intermediate&quot; option for budget buyers who also don't have the hardware to output the full 8k image from a computer at full refresh rate. At the time of writing, I haven't found any monitor models with such res. It's all either 4k or straight to 8k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize it maybe too early for high quality monitors or TVs at affordable prices, but I figured I'll post now and await responses for the years to come.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50756" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13951" RevisionGUID="732e6e9b-25a9-4c8c-b66c-fa089bb3e9b1" CreationDate="2020-08-27T23:22:50.517" UserId="669" Text="Large 8K and 6K resolution monitors or TVs for use as a desktop PC monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50757" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13951" RevisionGUID="732e6e9b-25a9-4c8c-b66c-fa089bb3e9b1" CreationDate="2020-08-27T23:22:50.517" UserId="669" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50758" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13951" RevisionGUID="e10d275b-703b-4355-a934-75e8214c003b" CreationDate="2020-08-27T23:33:22.467" UserId="669" Comment="added 20 characters in body" Text="I'm looking, ideally, for a monitor or a similarly high quality and low latency TV with 8k resolution in 16:9 aspect ratio (7680x4320), or less preferably, but probably more realistic in the coming years, 6k (5760x3240 or 6144x3160 or somewhere in that vicinity). The intended usage scenarios are playing modern video games with realistic and pixel art graphics, semi-professional video and image editing, programming (aka reading a bunch of text for long hours).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;- 16:9 ratio or approximate within reason, but not a thin &quot;wide&quot;/&quot;surround&quot; type nearing 32:9 ratio, vertical resolution is more desirable than horizontal;&#xD;&#xA;- Diagonal for 6k at least 48&quot;, preferable around 72-76&quot;, and for 8k around 98&quot;;&#xD;&#xA;  - // there are a couple 27&quot; and 32&quot; 8k PC monitors out there, but the extra resolution is impossible to fully make use of at this pixel size, so I'm going off of FullHD (1920x1080) at 24&quot;, 2560x1440 at 32&quot;, 3840x2160 at 48&quot;, so 80 horizontal resolution pixels per inch of diagonal general scaling rule;&#xD;&#xA;- Low input lag to make it suitable for gaming;&#xD;&#xA;- Full RGB color mode support, without chroma subsampling, so that the text is not any blurrier than on any common monitor;&#xD;&#xA;- Full RGB panel subpixel layout (no pentile subpixel cheating);&#xD;&#xA;- Colors and viewing angles are not significantly worse than an average IPS display panel;&#xD;&#xA;- Should work with a modern GPU over DisplayPort and HDMI connections (multiple cables requirement acceptable);&#xD;&#xA;- At least 59Hz refresh rate.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would be great to have:&#xD;&#xA;- 120Hz+ refresh rate support;&#xD;&#xA;- no flickering in high refresh rate mode (strobe light feature);&#xD;&#xA;- affordable price of below 2000 USD (at these specs it's more of a wish, but still one can dream);&#xD;&#xA;- repair availability - if something happens to a thing that expensive it would be cool to not just throw it in the trash;&#xD;&#xA;- no smart TV options - the dumber it is, the better, in my opinion. If it's unavoidable, well alright, maybe it can be disabled or &quot;Pi-holed&quot; somehow;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional:&#xD;&#xA;- Curved display panel;&#xD;&#xA;- HDR support;&#xD;&#xA;- local area dimming zones;&#xD;&#xA;- high refresh rate pixel overclocking;&#xD;&#xA;- OLED/QLED panel - it is not clear if it's going to be an advantage for general PC use with lots of static pixels burning into the panel. Even video games have static heads-up display elements like health bars and [soul](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark_Souls) counters;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TVs have been known to lie about their true resolution and upsample lower resolution to their display panel's physical resolution, so that is of course unacceptable. All pixels should be there. Also, certain TVs with &quot;gaming modes&quot; which have indeed lower input lag than a default or other modes, sometimes resort to interlacing, chroma subsampling, framerate limitations and such - this is very undesirable, but not completely off the table.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the time of writing, these devices with specs similar to desirable are seen online when searching &quot;8K monitor|tv&quot;, prices taken mostly from official manufacturer sites:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Dell UltraSharp UP3218K - 31.5&quot; for $5k - way too small to get any use out of the extra pixels;&#xD;&#xA;- Sony KD-85ZG9 - LCD - 85&quot;, 98&quot; - price is ~7-14k GBP for 85&quot; and [reportedly](https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/sony-kd-85zg9-8k-tv) insane 85k GBP for 98&quot;;&#xD;&#xA;- Sony Z9G (could be same model as above) - LCD - 85&quot; $8-13k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung QE75Q950R - QLED - 55&quot;, 65&quot;, 75&quot;, 82&quot;, 98&quot; - price ~4k GBP for 75&quot;, QLED panel might not be a plus in the long run and in general for use with PC;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q800T - QLED - 82&quot; $6-7k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q900 - QLED - 98&quot; $60-100k??;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q900TS - QLED - 85&quot; $8-9k;&#xD;&#xA;- Samsung Q950TS - QLED - 85&quot; $12-13k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG Z9 - OLED - 88&quot; $30k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG ZX - OLED - 88&quot; $30k;&#xD;&#xA;- LG NanoCell 99 - 75&quot; $4300-5000;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In additions to models I've found on sale above, I also found some more info about major display panel manufacturers with news of them manufacturing 8k panels (at the time of writing):&#xD;&#xA;- [AU Optronics](https://www.auo.com/en-global/application/detail/LCD_TV_Applications) lists 85&quot; 60/120Hz panels at 8k resolution, and [no 8K monitor panels](https://www.auo.com/en-global/application/detail/Monitor_Applications);&#xD;&#xA;- BOE seems to have presented various 8k TVs in recent years but I couldn't find purchasable models with worldwide shipping;&#xD;&#xA;- Sharp seems to advertise its 8k TV tech, but I couldn't find any models in shops;&#xD;&#xA;- Toshiba - same story;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems like 6k is not a common display resolution, but some professional video camera manufacturers are advertising cameras with such resolution, and some tech news sites are posting rumors about 6k being a more reasonable potential upcoming &quot;intermediate&quot; option for budget buyers who also don't have the hardware to output the full 8k image from a computer at full refresh rate. At the time of writing, I haven't found any monitor models with such res. It's all either 4k or straight to 8k.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I realize 2020 may still be too early for high quality monitors or TVs at affordable prices, but I figured I'll post now and await responses for the years to come.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50764" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13953" RevisionGUID="15e938f7-9c2a-47ee-b73e-c893c432d41d" CreationDate="2020-08-28T06:47:47.467" UserId="7269" Text="I've been searching a lot on the internet for a rugged battery powered 4G/LTE WiFi hotspot with internal antenna. Can't seem to find any suitable alternatives. Need to know if anybody else knows about a possible suitable product.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Minimum specs:&#xD;&#xA; - Water resistant (must tolerate rain)&#xD;&#xA; - Operating temperature -20 to +40 C (-4 to +104 F)&#xD;&#xA; - 4G/LTE&#xD;&#xA; - Wifi broadcast of 4G/LTE connection&#xD;&#xA; - Internal antenna&#xD;&#xA; - Powered by rechargeable internal battery&#xD;&#xA; - Minimum 8 hours battery time on full load&#xD;&#xA; - Price below 600 USD / 600 EUR (somewhat flexible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50765" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13953" RevisionGUID="15e938f7-9c2a-47ee-b73e-c893c432d41d" CreationDate="2020-08-28T06:47:47.467" UserId="7269" Text="Rugged battery powered 4G/LTE WiFi hotspot with internal antenna, recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50766" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13953" RevisionGUID="15e938f7-9c2a-47ee-b73e-c893c432d41d" CreationDate="2020-08-28T06:47:47.467" UserId="7269" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50768" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="604ef995-be87-4747-80ff-95a9f7902dac" CreationDate="2020-08-28T11:11:07.320" UserId="24" Comment="format, padding" Text="What is a Low-cost 3g or 4g GSM module for Raspberry Pi? Currently, I have a sim-800l, which is not adequate for my needs. By budget is around $15-40 for a suitable solution. Could you provide me some gsm modules?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50769" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="604ef995-be87-4747-80ff-95a9f7902dac" CreationDate="2020-08-28T11:11:07.320" UserId="24" Comment="format, padding" Text="Cheap 3g or 4g GSM module for Raspberry Pi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50770" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13950" RevisionGUID="604ef995-be87-4747-80ff-95a9f7902dac" CreationDate="2020-08-28T11:11:07.320" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 16279 edit id of 1133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50771" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13954" RevisionGUID="680fff11-2a0f-4358-933e-1a36c0367663" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:55:18.667" UserId="16284" Text="I need BT5 for my earbuds. I wasn't able to find an appropriate replacement of the internal networking adapter, so, now I'm hoping that somebody has a good experience with a USB BT5 adapter in an older MacBook Pro Retina.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50772" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13954" RevisionGUID="680fff11-2a0f-4358-933e-1a36c0367663" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:55:18.667" UserId="16284" Text="Is there a bluetooth 5 usb device that works on a 2013 MacBook Pro Retina?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50773" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13954" RevisionGUID="680fff11-2a0f-4358-933e-1a36c0367663" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:55:18.667" UserId="16284" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;bluetooth-5&gt;&lt;bluetooth-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50786" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13957" RevisionGUID="abc4d98e-2fdc-4edc-bc7e-4e630b1a58c5" CreationDate="2020-08-28T23:12:45.507" UserId="3713" Text="Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured laptop (kind of a desktop replacement). The same kind of laptop as in my [question][1] from 2016.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a customised Lenovo T460s (14 inch 2k screen, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD, GeForce 930M, WWAN, SD card reader, finger print reader) purchased in 2016.&#xD;&#xA;I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am struggling to find a good replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage pattern:&#xD;&#xA;The laptop goes where I go and is used for database and back end development during the day and occasional gaming session in the evening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 2K, that is useable in sunlight&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: &quot;powerful&quot; I5 / I7 (not an ultra low voltage version)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB - 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: under 1.6kg&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: 2 x USB, mic/headphone, HDMI/Display Port, (the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Build / Finish: looking for a high quality &quot;professional&quot; / &quot;business&quot; look&#xD;&#xA; - Built in mobile internet&#xD;&#xA; - Replaceable battery (i.e. not permanently glued in)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (in order of priority):&#xD;&#xA; - 2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet.&#xD;&#xA; - Availability of a Docking station&#xD;&#xA; - Light weight Power Brick&#xD;&#xA; - Long battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Built in card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have checked:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Surface Book 3 (13.5&quot;) - looks exceptional (also is a &quot;2 in 1&quot;) but no 4G and no direct monitor connectivity.&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovos - their business ultra portable range does not seem to have GFX card option anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the race for the thinnest design has pushed all functional aspects to the side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/laptop-13-14inch-very-mobile-fully-featured-desktop-replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50787" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13957" RevisionGUID="abc4d98e-2fdc-4edc-bc7e-4e630b1a58c5" CreationDate="2020-08-28T23:12:45.507" UserId="3713" Text="Laptop 13 - 14&quot; very mobile fully featured desktop replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50788" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13957" RevisionGUID="abc4d98e-2fdc-4edc-bc7e-4e630b1a58c5" CreationDate="2020-08-28T23:12:45.507" UserId="3713" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50800" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="d2792df2-f9e5-4555-a2c5-351071921d6e" CreationDate="2020-08-29T00:02:10.197" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50801" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="6b21242c-9317-41f2-8cd6-1c19bf041577" CreationDate="2020-08-29T09:59:23.700" UserId="16227" Comment="99" />
  <row Id="50818" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13957" RevisionGUID="17c5e1c3-5821-4c0c-91ee-611347b8b816" CreationDate="2020-08-30T02:45:54.307" UserId="3713" Comment="Removed &quot;not an ultra low version&quot; CPU requirement as it may be confusing." Text="Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured laptop (kind of a desktop replacement). The same kind of laptop as in my [question][1] from 2016.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a customised Lenovo T460s (14 inch 2k screen, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD, GeForce 930M, WWAN, SD card reader, finger print reader) purchased in 2016.&#xD;&#xA;I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am struggling to find a good replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage pattern:&#xD;&#xA;The laptop goes where I go and is used for database and back end development during the day and occasional gaming session in the evening.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must have features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Display: 2K, that is useable in sunlight&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: I5 / I7 or equivalent AMD&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: 16GB - 32GB&#xD;&#xA; - HDD: 512GB SSD&#xD;&#xA; - Weight: under 1.6kg&#xD;&#xA; - Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings&#xD;&#xA; - Ports: 2 x USB, mic/headphone, HDMI/Display Port, (the more the better)&#xD;&#xA; - Build / Finish: looking for a high quality &quot;professional&quot; / &quot;business&quot; look&#xD;&#xA; - Built in mobile internet&#xD;&#xA; - Replaceable battery (i.e. not permanently glued in)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional (in order of priority):&#xD;&#xA; - 2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet.&#xD;&#xA; - Availability of a Docking station&#xD;&#xA; - Light weight Power Brick&#xD;&#xA; - Long battery life&#xD;&#xA; - Built in card reader&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have checked:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Surface Book 3 (13.5&quot;) - looks exceptional (also is a &quot;2 in 1&quot;) but no 4G and no direct monitor connectivity.&#xD;&#xA; - Lenovos - their business ultra portable range does not seem to have GFX card option anymore.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?&#xD;&#xA;It seems that the race for the thinnest design has pushed all functional aspects to the side.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/laptop-13-14inch-very-mobile-fully-featured-desktop-replacement" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50819" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13962" RevisionGUID="30b63791-fd6a-4481-b061-97a9f4002e96" CreationDate="2020-08-30T06:42:32.673" UserId="9248" Text="Why not get another Lenovo? It seems as if they develop the sort of computers that you like. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ThinkPad T14 Gen 1 ([Intel][1] or [AMD][2]) is in the same series as the computer you currently have, the T-series. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It is a 14-inch computer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It has either a Ryzen 7 Pro 4750U or a i7-10610U. In terms of performance, on a business laptop there is very little reason to go with the Intel version. Look at the performance [here.][3]  You will get a higher boost clock on the Intel processor, but the AMD appears to win in single-threaded performance anyway. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It appears to have a broadband card:  Integrated Mobile Broadband 4G LTE-A, Fibocom L860-GL, with or without MIMO. For reasons unknown, the AMD version does not appear to have MIMO. It also has an eSIM. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- In terms of screens, you can get a 3840x2160 glossy panel, or you can stick with 1080p and get anti-glare and touch capabilities. In keeping with the usual dubious OEM double-dealing, you will have to miss out on the 4K screen if you go with AMD (but perhaps with the right skills or contacts you could get it in there). The top screens have a solid 500 nits. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The amount of RAM well exceeds your specifications, although Intel and AMD may have different limitations again. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- The ports are as follows: a MicroSD card reader, two USB 3.2 Gen 1 (one Always On), two USB 3.2 Type-C Gen 2 (DisplayPort 1.4), HDMI 2.0, Ethernet (RJ-45), nano-SIM card slot (WWAN models), headphone / microphone combo jack, smart card reader. The Intel version, for whatever reason, only has HDMI 1.4b, but it also has Thunderbolt 3 in one of the USB ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It comes with a 512 GB SSD, but seeing as it is an M.2 drive, if it is not soldered in you should be able to upgrade it no problem. These days, 800 dollars gets you an 4 TB M.2 drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- If you choose the Intel processor, you can get it with a NVIDIA GeForce MX330; if you get the Ryzen version, it should come with Radeon RX Vega 7 integrated graphics. If you want the discrete graphics, there you have it. Unfortunately, the MX330 is not a very good card. That said, neither is the 930M in your current device, of course; if you want a better graphics processor, there are 14-inch computers with 1650s and 2060s, but you would have to give up the mobile broadband. It is worth considering the Vega graphics in the Ryzen processor instead of the dGPU that comes with Intel. It performs [better on some tests][4] (although a lot worse in others). It seems to be better on the Fire Strike benchmark according to some sites, even. Not to mention, you get a much better CPU. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will have to compromise on one or two things: the battery is integrated, for instance. That said, the [manual][5] certainly seems to indicate that it can be removed with a bit of ingenuity. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://psref.lenovo.com/Product/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_T14_Gen_1_Intel&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://psref.lenovo.com/Product/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_T14_Gen_1_AMD&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-10610U-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-PRO-4750U/3738vs3740&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://technical.city/es/video/GeForce-MX330-vs-Radeon-RX-Vega-7&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/t14_gen1_p14s_gen1_hmm_en.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50820" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="13922" RevisionGUID="efdf1400-18f9-4829-b1d0-dc02b3854da2" CreationDate="2020-08-30T07:03:00.303" UserId="-1" Comment="98" />
  <row Id="50857" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13970" RevisionGUID="e1f8ebdd-3b43-4bf0-9fb0-fa0ef7fea2b4" CreationDate="2020-09-01T19:35:04.943" UserId="16306" Text="I'm looking for an FPV racing drone that has a sturdy frame and comes with everything I need (except VR goggles if it links with your phone).&#xD;&#xA;I also don't have a soldering iron so I won't be able to solder. I usually buy off of amazon, and if it's sold on there, that'd be great. I want it to have blade guards as well that make it able to fly indoors. I'm an experienced pilot, so it doesn't have to be beginner friendly. I don't want to have to spend over $200 on this, too. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50858" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13970" RevisionGUID="e1f8ebdd-3b43-4bf0-9fb0-fa0ef7fea2b4" CreationDate="2020-09-01T19:35:04.943" UserId="16306" Text="FPV Racing Drone Reccomendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50859" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13970" RevisionGUID="e1f8ebdd-3b43-4bf0-9fb0-fa0ef7fea2b4" CreationDate="2020-09-01T19:35:04.943" UserId="16306" Text="&lt;drone&gt;&lt;vr-headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50860" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13971" RevisionGUID="678103cf-df0e-4fb7-afe2-c9e841d83551" CreationDate="2020-09-01T21:57:37.900" UserId="14349" Text="I need a new phone to replace a Moto G7 Power that I dropped in a lake. I would buy it again but I can't find it anywhere for near its original price (I saw one on eBay for £250, double its original price). I'd like to find a similar phone for a similar price of £100-£200. Requirements in order of how important they are to me:&#xA;&#xA;- Good battery life. Moti G7 Power had 5000mAh which admittedly is overkill, but the more the better (&gt;=4000mAh would be nice)&#xA;&#xA;- decent screen: Moto G7 Power had a 720p 19:9 display which was probably it's weakest point, a 1080p screen would be nice but I'll compromise on the screen if necessary.&#xA;&#xA;- Relatively stock android: so not Samsung, I want a pretty standard version like that of Motorola phones. Android 9 is my OS of choice because it's relatively recent but also still has the old-school navigation buttons that i can't live without.&#xA;&#xA;- USB-C: is very cool&#xA;&#xA;- Decently fast processor, basically anything will do to be honest, and enough graphics power to play 1080p60 YouTube smoothly (probably not even necessary to specify)&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for any and all suggestions in advance!&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50861" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13971" RevisionGUID="678103cf-df0e-4fb7-afe2-c9e841d83551" CreationDate="2020-09-01T21:57:37.900" UserId="14349" Text="Looking for low-mid phone with good battery &amp; screen" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50862" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13971" RevisionGUID="678103cf-df0e-4fb7-afe2-c9e841d83551" CreationDate="2020-09-01T21:57:37.900" UserId="14349" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50863" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13171" RevisionGUID="d7411909-7983-478a-b9ac-6c3610208030" CreationDate="2020-09-01T22:02:40.227" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50864" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13972" RevisionGUID="7a122c88-1e11-46df-9ef8-d9ca31b8220a" CreationDate="2020-09-01T23:36:48.540" UserId="9248" Text="Might I suggest the Moto G7 Power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite what the question indicates, I was able to find several sites where it is being offered for less than £200, including eBay. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorola-G7-Power-6-2-64GB-12MP-4GB-Dual-sim-Unlocked-Smartphone-Black/124235176292?epid=20029779493&amp;hash=item1cecfe5964:g:EwEAAOSw8Xpe9FE0) is a refurbished one for only 143. [Here](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorola-Moto-G7-Power-64GB-4GB-6-2-Dual-SIM-4G-LTE-GSM-Unlocked-XT1955-4/143691899031?epid=19032626436&amp;hash=item2174b46097:g:SVMAAOSw7URfQEAW)&#xD;&#xA; is a completely new one from about 125. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Motorola store in the US](https://www.motorola.com/us/smartphones-moto-g7-power/p)&#xD;&#xA; is definitely still selling it for $179 (£134). If you have a friend in the US they can mail it to you. Careful of possible international version differences. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternately, you can go for the [G8 Power Lite](https://www.motorola.co.uk/smartphones-moto-g-power-lite-gen-8/p), which is being sold for £130 on Motorola's UK site. You'll see improvements in almost everything over the G7 Power, except that 4K video recording may not be possible, and it has an unusual processor, something that might affect battery life.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50865" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13972" RevisionGUID="57bc5e72-cd87-42da-b7a9-63d526f8e2d7" CreationDate="2020-09-01T23:43:42.413" UserId="9248" Comment="added 328 characters in body" Text="Might I suggest the Moto G7 Power?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Despite what the question indicates, I was able to find several sites where it is being offered for less than £200, including eBay. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Here](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorola-G7-Power-6-2-64GB-12MP-4GB-Dual-sim-Unlocked-Smartphone-Black/124235176292?epid=20029779493&amp;hash=item1cecfe5964:g:EwEAAOSw8Xpe9FE0) is a refurbished one for only 143. [Here](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorola-Moto-G7-Power-64GB-4GB-6-2-Dual-SIM-4G-LTE-GSM-Unlocked-XT1955-4/143691899031?epid=19032626436&amp;hash=item2174b46097:g:SVMAAOSw7URfQEAW)&#xD;&#xA; is a completely new one from about 125. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Motorola store in the US](https://www.motorola.com/us/smartphones-moto-g7-power/p)&#xD;&#xA; is definitely still selling it for $179 (£134). If you have a friend in the US they can mail it to you. Careful of possible international version differences. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternately, you can go for the [G8 Power Lite](https://www.motorola.co.uk/smartphones-moto-g-power-lite-gen-8/p), which is being sold for £130 on Motorola's UK site. You'll see improvements in almost everything over the G7 Power, except that 4K video recording may not be possible, and it has an unusual processor, something that might affect battery life.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could even get the regular G8 Power for under 200 on Amazon if you are willing to go for a used, like-new device.  Lenovo UK is also selling them new for 200 (limited time discount coupon). This will be an improvement in all aspects over your previous device, except that a higher resolution may decrease battery life.  It would come with Android 10, unfortunately. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50866" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="118bbe3b-f0f8-41d9-9206-aa7139a53b00" CreationDate="2020-09-02T05:04:00.277" UserId="5531" Comment="Add Dell's August 2020 curved 4K offering" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) &#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13975" RevisionGUID="16999f7c-e084-47cd-b808-6f590f593b59" CreationDate="2020-09-02T15:33:41.633" UserId="16312" Text="I want the worst (160x120 res or lower preferably) webcam and mic combination possible. I would hope the webcam would be cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On top of that, is there any way I can passively make them worse (ex. Vaseline on the lens, cover in a few layers of cling wrap, etc. for the camera; somehow create static on the mic) while not making it obvious to an observer on the other side that this is done on purpose?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found [this combo](https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-sbt-wcck/p/N82E16830194002?cm_re=usb_camera-_-30-194-002-_-Product) but am wondering if theres any worse products, or any ways to make this one worse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13975" RevisionGUID="16999f7c-e084-47cd-b808-6f590f593b59" CreationDate="2020-09-02T15:33:41.633" UserId="16312" Text="Worst webcam and microphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13975" RevisionGUID="16999f7c-e084-47cd-b808-6f590f593b59" CreationDate="2020-09-02T15:33:41.633" UserId="16312" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13978" RevisionGUID="95823c5a-bbf7-47d9-a43d-988f1f3d629c" CreationDate="2020-09-02T16:51:47.910" UserId="16186" Text="Worst webcam? Ok, then you will need something bad and cheap as a rock. However it's hard to find anything you specified and making sure it will **work.** (cheap products like to break a lot)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend getting a cam with low FPS (30 should be enough in your case) and as low megapixels as possible. Try using it in the dim room or sticking a translucent sticker on the lens. Leaving glue/cream directly on the lens should also affect it in some way.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've found [this...][1] Looks weird but it doesn't have a microphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; 0.1 Megapixel |&#xD;&#xA;12 fps |&#xD;&#xA;USB 1.1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.newegg.com/p/1EF-006C-00001" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50881" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13979" RevisionGUID="0b1d034f-e14b-48e1-874c-0e7bb9df370a" CreationDate="2020-09-02T17:14:58.820" UserId="16186" Text="Everything you mentioned feels like Xiamomi phones should do the work. You can get Mi 8 lite for ~£200&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;size: 156.40 x 75.80 x 7.50 mm&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;screen: 1080 x 2280 px (6.26&quot;) 403 ppi&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;battery: Li-Ion 3350 mAh (yes, it's lower than you wanted but it's hard to squish power and a good battery to make it under 200 GBP)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: Qualcomm Snapdragon 660&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Including Android 10 and USB-C cable &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or Moto G9 / Moto G8. They are similliar to that one you had before." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50882" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13980" RevisionGUID="f946fedd-48bd-4365-b5cc-8ed9d17f6580" CreationDate="2020-09-02T17:42:24.117" UserId="16186" Text=" 1. Make your own using Raspberry Pi with GSM module, battery and additional software to track it.  This is the hard way.&#xD;&#xA; 2. &quot;Car&quot; trackers can be actually used for other purposes. [This $199 device][1] looks good&#xD;&#xA;but there's also a way [cheaper alternatives][2] that costs only $24.95&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/EON-Long-Life-GPS-Tracker/dp/B01N1F9OV7/ref=sr_1_18?c=ts&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=GPS%20Trackers&amp;qid=1599067971&amp;refinements=p_36%3A1253506011&amp;s=gps&amp;sr=1-18&amp;ts_id=617650011&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5VVGQJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07W5VVGQJ&amp;pd_rd_w=EO1UT&amp;pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&amp;pd_rd_wg=YUNqS&amp;pf_rd_r=RTFAGNYHWAN9GMBST8C3&amp;pd_rd_r=661b6ed8-5659-4abe-98d9-586e365b2098&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUlpYVEVXUkY2VVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NTY2OTIyNE83VzJBRTdBQ1VNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTU1MzYzR0ZXNUFGTzVZWTBBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==&#xD;&#xA;3. Two Phones method. Basically all you need to do is just to turn on GPS on the phone #1, place it somewhere and track it using #2 phone &quot;Track my Phone app&quot;. (depends on device)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50892" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13981" RevisionGUID="707247d9-6a2e-4bad-994f-dd32d9e53350" CreationDate="2020-09-03T03:33:23.610" UserId="4546" Text="I'm in need of a fan with 3 simple requirements.&#xA;&#xA;1) it must be in the 140x140mm or 120x120 ATX case fan form factor.   &#xA;2) it must run on 12VDC.   &#xA;3) from the side which the air flows in, the fan *must* spin clockwise. &#xA;&#xA;Preferably less than 25$ US.&#xA;&#xA;I've found that this task is exceedingly hard, and that the majority of fans spin counter clockwise from the inward pulling face. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50893" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="13981" RevisionGUID="707247d9-6a2e-4bad-994f-dd32d9e53350" CreationDate="2020-09-03T03:33:23.610" UserId="4546" Text="Clock-wise case fan" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50894" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="13981" RevisionGUID="707247d9-6a2e-4bad-994f-dd32d9e53350" CreationDate="2020-09-03T03:33:23.610" UserId="4546" Text="&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;fanless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50898" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13022" RevisionGUID="7e627908-f7d8-45d9-8933-3e340b257ade" CreationDate="2020-09-03T05:01:25.140" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13992" RevisionGUID="e3035286-4f0b-4a11-bf79-d7b63dcaf68d" CreationDate="2020-09-05T11:30:03.323" UserId="16186" Text="There are many drones on the market. What are you looking for? Do you want the drone to have a good battery or maybe durability? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can recommend [EMAX Hawk Sport 5.][1] It comes with a great design and overall quality. It's under $200 too. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Don't forget to check these sites. Maybe you'll find something useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://mydroneauthority.com/reviews/best-racing-drones-for-sale/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://uavcoach.com/fpv-quadcopter-drone-systems/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.aniwaa.com/buyers-guide/drones/best-fpv-racing-drones/  (2019 list)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF45T28?tag=uavcoach-20&amp;th=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50967" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="13902" RevisionGUID="468bdfc0-62db-454a-b017-ce0cdc3e0693" CreationDate="2020-09-06T12:06:50.713" UserId="-1" Comment="99" />
  <row Id="50968" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13511" RevisionGUID="6f15468d-d11c-4ddc-81ec-a97f73ad7b84" CreationDate="2020-09-06T17:05:14.710" UserId="3714" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a pair of true wireless earbuds that I can use with my (Linux) PC and my Android (Pixel 3) phone.  Money is no object, but having all the features I need is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* CVC 8.0 noise reduction for clear calls outdoors and in windy environments.&#xD;&#xA;* Active and Passive Noise cancellation that can be switched off with a pass through of ambient sounds if desired.  Strangely, a lot of earbuds omit one or both.&#xD;&#xA;* A rating of at least IP54&#xD;&#xA;* low headset latency is highly preferred so for instance if I'm gaming the sound is not out of sync with the screen.  Apt-X (e.g. Qualcomm 3020) is the technical spec I seem to need here.&#xD;&#xA;* Google Assistant integration.  I believe this rules out stuff like Apple's Airpod Pros&#xD;&#xA;* I need to be able to pair with both my PC and my phone without hassle switching between them.  It seems like a lot of earbuds do this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here's issues I have found with earbuds I have researched so far. Note that for some devices I have no data on whether they meet certain requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sennheiser Momentum True Wireless 2 - doesn't support hassle free pairing with multiple devices, has excessive latency (300ms)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Google Pixel Buds (2020) - no active noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sony WF-1000XM3 - no IPX rating&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Jabra Elite Active 75t - no active noise cancellation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Huawei Freebuds 3 and Huawei Freebuds 3i - the noise cancellation seems to be lacking on the 3 model, while the 3i is inferior to the 3 in many of the specs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Boltune BT-BH023 and BT-BH024 - the first has ANC but not CVC 8.0, the second has CVC 8.0 but not ANC!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mifo O7 - has CVC 8.0 but not ANC&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bluedio Fi - has CVC 8.0 but not ANC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50972" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="361052b4-4f3f-4fc7-884d-368ad3762a80" CreationDate="2020-09-06T18:01:55.130" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="50976" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="13999" RevisionGUID="fcb13f01-100d-436f-b7d0-7213070d94ae" CreationDate="2020-09-07T14:28:14.777" UserId="16337" Text="&gt; @K7AAY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The OP asked for a device for $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that he won't have much luck acquiring a OnePlus 5-7,Google Pixel XL, Essential, Xiaomi F1 Pocophone.. :3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; @J.Doe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Xda-developers can you compare some of the smartphones on the list above against the sub-forums on Xda.Many of devices have so-called 'unofficial' Lineage OS support, which have are basically the same features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="50977" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13999" RevisionGUID="e05f2204-8cd5-4d30-b5ec-5285e15f26a4" CreationDate="2020-09-07T14:35:41.523" UserId="16337" Comment="added 66 characters in body" Text="&gt; @K7AAY&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The OP asked for a device for $100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that he won't have much luck acquiring a OnePlus 5-7,Google Pixel XL, Essential, Xiaomi F1 Pocophone.. :3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In any case. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; @J.Doe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On [https://www.xda-developers.com/][1] can you compare some of the smartphones on the list above against the regarding sub-forums on Xda.Many of devices have so-called 'unofficial' Lineage OS support, which have basically the same features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Good luck!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.xda-developers.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51003" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14003" RevisionGUID="712cc167-ab03-4999-82c5-a50c551fb8df" CreationDate="2020-09-09T15:20:08.940" UserId="16348" Text="When I do computer work at home I prefer to lie down but two factors cause me inconvenience: the weight of the laptop and the need to charge it often.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I wonder if there is a laptop-shaped device that has the I/O of a normal laptop but actually connects to a desktop which performs all the computations. It presumably would be lighter and would not have to be charged as often." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51004" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14003" RevisionGUID="712cc167-ab03-4999-82c5-a50c551fb8df" CreationDate="2020-09-09T15:20:08.940" UserId="16348" Text="Laptop-shaped device serving as I/O for a desktop PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51005" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14003" RevisionGUID="712cc167-ab03-4999-82c5-a50c551fb8df" CreationDate="2020-09-09T15:20:08.940" UserId="16348" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51006" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14004" RevisionGUID="c897d770-fb69-4498-91f4-4d92d3fd221a" CreationDate="2020-09-09T20:18:30.583" UserId="16351" Text="I'm trying to set up the following: two computers (MBP15 w/ USB-C and a desktop) that feed into one monitor and share USB peripherals (mouse, keyboard, hub, etc). I've found a few switches that seem to do what I need but I was hoping for some expert advice (product/brand recommendations?) before I pull the trigger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Diagram for clarity:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Diagram for Clarity][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoWtJ.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51007" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14004" RevisionGUID="c897d770-fb69-4498-91f4-4d92d3fd221a" CreationDate="2020-09-09T20:18:30.583" UserId="16351" Text="KVM Switch to handle USB-C, Video &amp; Power" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51008" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14004" RevisionGUID="c897d770-fb69-4498-91f4-4d92d3fd221a" CreationDate="2020-09-09T20:18:30.583" UserId="16351" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;kvm&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51024" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14009" RevisionGUID="a01e9d24-72c4-4671-bb2c-b508192eeffc" CreationDate="2020-09-10T15:44:41.963" UserId="16354" Text="I would like to have a VESA mount for my monitor to be able to dynamically move it from the left side on my desk to the middle in a straight line. Like it moves on a dolly (however, an arm would be better as it keeps the desk free).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am really a fan of these pneumatic spring arms allowing for effortless movements. However, a typical arm would - due to its rotational joints - slide in an arc over my desk and collide with stuff on it&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As the desk is directly in front of a wall with only a small gap in-between, the arm also cannot extend behind the desk during movement (which would allow for a straight line transition on the desk):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhfg8.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRzI1.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCvmy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51025" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14009" RevisionGUID="a01e9d24-72c4-4671-bb2c-b508192eeffc" CreationDate="2020-09-10T15:44:41.963" UserId="16354" Text="Is there a monitor arm with purely sideways movement?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51026" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14009" RevisionGUID="a01e9d24-72c4-4671-bb2c-b508192eeffc" CreationDate="2020-09-10T15:44:41.963" UserId="16354" Text="&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51027" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7105" RevisionGUID="9c187477-d0bb-4f9d-8c4f-a203c97a6cb1" CreationDate="2020-09-10T16:03:00.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51031" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="f7ed4d62-af98-404a-8fa8-8811cde651aa" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:27:07.117" UserId="16356" Text="I need help finding an LED to work with my project(if I told you what it is you'd say I was stupid, which has already been established by basically everyone). Here's the important stuff;&#xD;&#xA;- It is going to be powered by a [GP SUPERCELL Super Heavy Duty 1604s 6f22 9v battery](https://finddealsfor.me/dealextreme/769/gp-supercell-9v-battery-white-aka-1604s-6f22) that I salvaged from a broken multimeter. &#xD;&#xA;- The LED must be able to remain on for up to three seconds without any risk of overheating or breaking. Assume a break of at least one second between the next strobe. &#xD;&#xA;- It must be able to fit in a tube with an inner diameter of .5 cm(does not include the leads)&#xD;&#xA;- If needed, the power supply can be changed, but only as a last resort&#xD;&#xA;- Overall life before the battery dies needs to be at least five minutes of 'on' time&#xD;&#xA;- Is preferably white light, but yellowed light is OK. RGB LEDs and colored LEDs will not be used. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it follows these requests, then please post a link and lumens and I'll use the brightest one from the answers. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51032" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="f7ed4d62-af98-404a-8fa8-8811cde651aa" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:27:07.117" UserId="16356" Text="brightest single LED running off of a 9v battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51033" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="f7ed4d62-af98-404a-8fa8-8811cde651aa" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:27:07.117" UserId="16356" Text="&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51034" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="ded71503-550a-4c4f-a4f8-42322dac08a7" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:36:14.480" UserId="16356" Comment="added 67 characters in body" Text="I need help finding an LED to work with my project(if I told you what it is you'd say I was stupid, which has already been established by basically everyone). Here's the important stuff;&#xD;&#xA;- It is going to be powered by a [GP SUPERCELL Super Heavy Duty 1604s 6f22 9v battery](https://finddealsfor.me/dealextreme/769/gp-supercell-9v-battery-white-aka-1604s-6f22) that I salvaged from a broken multimeter. &#xD;&#xA;- The LED must be able to remain on for up to three seconds without any risk of overheating or breaking. Assume a break of at least one second between the next strobe. &#xD;&#xA;- It must be able to fit in a tube with an inner diameter of .5 cm(does not include the leads)&#xD;&#xA;- If needed, the power supply can be changed, but only as a last resort&#xD;&#xA;- Overall life before the battery dies needs to be at least five minutes of 'on' time&#xD;&#xA;- Is preferably white light, but yellowed light is OK. RGB LEDs and colored LEDs will not be used. &#xD;&#xA;- Taking apart a flashlight is doable&#xD;&#xA;- no more than $5 in cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it follows these requests, then please post a link and lumens and I'll use the brightest one from the answers. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51038" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="1f05adad-a10b-482f-ac75-667c53f35c06" CreationDate="2020-09-11T13:54:41.923" UserId="16356" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I need help finding an LED to work with my project(if I told you what it is you'd say I was stupid, which has already been established by basically everyone). Here's the important stuff;&#xD;&#xA;- It is going to be powered by a [GP SUPERCELL Super Heavy Duty 1604s 6f22 9v battery](https://finddealsfor.me/dealextreme/769/gp-supercell-9v-battery-white-aka-1604s-6f22) that I salvaged from a broken multimeter. &#xD;&#xA;- The LED must be able to remain on for up to three seconds without any risk of overheating or breaking. Assume a break of at least one second between the next strobe. &#xD;&#xA;- It must be able to fit in a tube with an inner diameter of 6 mm(does not include the leads)&#xD;&#xA;- If needed, the power supply can be changed, but only as a last resort&#xD;&#xA;- Overall life before the battery dies needs to be at least five minutes of 'on' time&#xD;&#xA;- Is preferably white light, but yellowed light is OK. RGB LEDs and colored LEDs will not be used. &#xD;&#xA;- Taking apart a flashlight is doable&#xD;&#xA;- no more than $5 in cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it follows these requests, then please post a link and lumens and I'll use the brightest one from the answers. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="dd728f51-a8f3-4555-90f6-6c219b81170a" CreationDate="2020-09-12T16:58:49.520" UserId="4476" Text="I'm looking to replace my Dell Inspiron N5050 that I bought in 2013 with 6 GB RAM for $400. I'm again not interested in breaking the bank, but I'm willing to step outside the &quot;budget&quot; grouping this time if needed for a laptop that will last for another seven years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intended uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Audio/Video editing&#xD;&#xA;* Internet web browsing and e-mail&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;* Docker/Docker Compose/Kubernetes/Rancher containers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM available today's needs (minimum 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 100 GB storage including space for OS&#xD;&#xA;* Able to install Debian, i.e.&#xD;&#xA;    * Linux compatible hardware (at a minimum wireless NIC and touch pad)&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;    * Must absolutely **not** have the ISO/JIS [Enter key layout](https://superuser.com/a/1368499/315584), preferably has the ANSI Enter key layout.&#xD;&#xA;    * Inverted &quot;T&quot; arrow keys&#xD;&#xA;* Webcam, microphone, speakers for Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Adequate battery life (3 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* Any USB ports (for external keyboard, external mouse, USB drives, external drives, PXE-boot via USB mass storage device)&#xD;&#xA;* Any display output port (HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, any flavor du jour) for external HDMI monitors with adapter/converter if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strongly-desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; screen at 1920x1080 or maybe 1920x1200 resolution&#xD;&#xA;* Long battery life for basic tasks (8-9 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM or the ability to expand installed RAM for tomorrow's needs such that laptop can continue to be used for another seven years&#xD;&#xA;* No preference on HDD vs. SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 1 TB storage&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port for external monitor/TV without adapter/converter&#xD;&#xA;* Illuminated/backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Bluetooth (possibly for external speakers)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;* CD/DVD drive (at a minimum for gPXE/Etherboot if no RJ-45 port, burning other CDs/DVDs)&#xD;&#xA;* RJ-45 Ethernet port (for PXE-booting the laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been happy with Dell in the past, so I'm looking to continue the trend getting another Dell, but this time I'm looking at **Dell Latitude** laptops, but I'm not sure which model(s) would be sufficient. I believe I won't need any Dell XPS laptop. Once I get the laptop, I'm expecting to replace the OS with **Debian Linux** again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the recent rise in virtual meetings, my N5050 laptop has been getting significant daily use for at-home virtual grade school with **Zoom meetings** in conjunction with opening Google documents (forms, slides, documents, etc.) and Office365 documents, and any other related activities. With Zoom, the fan obviously goes to high speed, but every couple days the load gets so high with everything else running that the laptops gets unusable and needs to be reset hard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the exception of the virtual meeting issue, I've still been primarily content with my N5050 as I have been running Debian on it since I got it, so it has been adequate otherwise for moderate Internet web browsing, running a couple VirtualBox VMs at a time (either one Windows 7 VM for Quicken only or a few other low-RAM Debian/Ubuntu VMs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It still does get sluggish and the load rises if I open several key web sites including certain sites if I go to them without disabling scripts with ScriptSafe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not care to repeat prior experiences in which one laptop's solder joint got loose for the power connector after only two years; another laptop did last for quite a while but eventually the plastic frame around the screen started cracking and eventually did break. So far, I have not had these problems with the N5050.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="dd728f51-a8f3-4555-90f6-6c219b81170a" CreationDate="2020-09-12T16:58:49.520" UserId="4476" Text="Recommendation on Dell Latitude Laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="dd728f51-a8f3-4555-90f6-6c219b81170a" CreationDate="2020-09-12T16:58:49.520" UserId="4476" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51072" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="368e34e8-4094-4122-9f2b-464dafa4322e" CreationDate="2020-09-13T02:46:33.843" UserId="4476" Comment="added reduced fan noise to list" Text="I'm looking to replace my Dell Inspiron N5050 that I bought in 2013 with 6 GB RAM for $400. I'm again not interested in breaking the bank, but I'm willing to step outside the &quot;budget&quot; grouping this time if needed for a laptop that will last for another seven years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intended uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Audio/Video editing&#xD;&#xA;* Internet web browsing and e-mail&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;* Docker/Docker Compose/Kubernetes/Rancher containers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM available today's needs (minimum 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 100 GB storage including space for OS&#xD;&#xA;* Able to install Debian, i.e.&#xD;&#xA;    * Linux compatible hardware (at a minimum wireless NIC and touch pad)&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;    * Must absolutely **not** have the ISO/JIS [Enter key layout](https://superuser.com/a/1368499/315584), preferably has the ANSI Enter key layout.&#xD;&#xA;    * Inverted &quot;T&quot; arrow keys&#xD;&#xA;* Webcam, microphone, speakers for Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Adequate battery life (3 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* Any USB ports (for external keyboard, external mouse, USB drives, external drives, PXE-boot via USB mass storage device)&#xD;&#xA;* Any display output port (HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, any flavor du jour) for external HDMI monitors with adapter/converter if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strongly-Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; screen at 1920x1080 or maybe 1920x1200 resolution&#xD;&#xA;* Long battery life for basic tasks (8-9 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* No loud fan noise while on Zoom meetings (i.e. no vacuum cleaner-like sound on the remote side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM or the ability to expand installed RAM for tomorrow's needs such that laptop can continue to be used for another seven years&#xD;&#xA;* No preference on HDD vs. SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 1 TB storage&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port for external monitor/TV without adapter/converter&#xD;&#xA;* Illuminated/backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Bluetooth (possibly for external speakers)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;* CD/DVD drive (at a minimum for gPXE/Etherboot if no RJ-45 port, burning other CDs/DVDs)&#xD;&#xA;* RJ-45 Ethernet port (for PXE-booting the laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been happy with Dell in the past, so I'm looking to continue the trend getting another Dell, but this time I'm looking at **Dell Latitude** laptops, but I'm not sure which model(s) would be sufficient. I believe I won't need any Dell XPS laptop. Once I get the laptop, I'm expecting to replace the OS with **Debian Linux** again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the recent rise in virtual meetings, my N5050 laptop has been getting significant daily use for at-home virtual grade school with **Zoom meetings** in conjunction with opening Google documents (forms, slides, documents, etc.) and Office365 documents, and any other related activities. With Zoom, the fan obviously goes to high speed, but every couple days the load gets so high with everything else running that the laptops gets unusable and needs to be reset hard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the exception of the virtual meeting issue, I've still been primarily content with my N5050 as I have been running Debian on it since I got it, so it has been adequate otherwise for moderate Internet web browsing, running a couple VirtualBox VMs at a time (either one Windows 7 VM for Quicken only or a few other low-RAM Debian/Ubuntu VMs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It still does get sluggish and the load rises if I open several key web sites including certain sites if I go to them without disabling scripts with ScriptSafe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not care to repeat prior experiences in which one laptop's solder joint got loose for the power connector after only two years; another laptop did last for quite a while but eventually the plastic frame around the screen started cracking and eventually did break. So far, I have not had these problems with the N5050.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51073" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14017" RevisionGUID="e8bf30eb-75fb-49f7-8514-194601d06390" CreationDate="2020-09-13T03:13:15.900" UserId="16362" Text="I'm finally catching up w/ the 21st century and bought my first pair of truly wireless earbuds: the Sony WF-1000XM3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is that audio quality degrades significantly when I connect them to my computer and enable the microphone. To do this, I have to switch from High Fidelity Playback (A2DP Sink) to Headset Unit (HSP/HFP), which forces the output to go from Stereo to Mono.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For ~$200+, I was hoping to have something better than my cheap wired earbuds+mic. I already bought 2 other earbuds at different price points and noticed similar or worse issues. Tried with Airpods Pro as well, but since I'm not on a Mac, I could never get the mic working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At this point, I'm wondering if things change significantly with something like the Sennheiser Momentum 2 (or higher price point), or if I should consider non-truly wireless earphones, if I want quality audio and mic?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51074" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14017" RevisionGUID="e8bf30eb-75fb-49f7-8514-194601d06390" CreationDate="2020-09-13T03:13:15.900" UserId="16362" Text="Are there any truly wireless earbuds that support A2DP while using the microphone?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51075" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14017" RevisionGUID="e8bf30eb-75fb-49f7-8514-194601d06390" CreationDate="2020-09-13T03:13:15.900" UserId="16362" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14018" RevisionGUID="f18ad76c-80be-4537-8570-dd565528e085" CreationDate="2020-09-13T08:03:03.503" UserId="16364" Text="I am working on a project that requires the use of an HDMI USB capture device, but because of HDCP 2.2, all captured video is just showing up black. I have read that some HDMI splitters can strip HDCP 1.4, but I am yet to find anything that can verifiably strip a signal of HDCP 2.2. If anyone has any suggestions, that would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51077" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14018" RevisionGUID="f18ad76c-80be-4537-8570-dd565528e085" CreationDate="2020-09-13T08:03:03.503" UserId="16364" Text="Does anyone know of an HDMI splitter that strips HDCP 2.2?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51078" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14018" RevisionGUID="f18ad76c-80be-4537-8570-dd565528e085" CreationDate="2020-09-13T08:03:03.503" UserId="16364" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;video&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51080" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13699" RevisionGUID="55221e72-392c-47ce-a2af-a193d79b0579" CreationDate="2020-09-13T13:55:23.597" UserId="16003" Comment="edited title" Text="Large monitor for two notebooks (WinPC and Macbook Pro)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51081" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="c5dcd979-846c-4a20-93ee-9a12aa2ddd1d" CreationDate="2020-09-13T14:00:50.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51085" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="cd195f16-d77b-4d58-bf66-fe4ab6f05c11" CreationDate="2020-09-13T16:33:11.347" UserId="4476" Comment="added virtual background to Zoom requirement" Text="I'm looking to replace my Dell Inspiron N5050 that I bought in 2013 with 6 GB RAM for $400. I'm again not interested in breaking the bank, but I'm willing to step outside the &quot;budget&quot; grouping this time if needed for a laptop that will last for another seven years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intended uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Zoom meetings with virtual backgrounds&#xD;&#xA;* Audio/Video editing&#xD;&#xA;* Internet web browsing and e-mail&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;* Docker/Docker Compose/Kubernetes/Rancher containers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM available today's needs (minimum 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 100 GB storage including space for OS&#xD;&#xA;* Able to install Debian, i.e.&#xD;&#xA;    * Linux compatible hardware (at a minimum wireless NIC and touch pad)&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;    * Must absolutely **not** have the ISO/JIS [Enter key layout](https://superuser.com/a/1368499/315584), preferably has the ANSI Enter key layout.&#xD;&#xA;    * Inverted &quot;T&quot; arrow keys&#xD;&#xA;* Webcam, microphone, speakers for Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Adequate battery life (3 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* Any USB ports (for external keyboard, external mouse, USB drives, external drives, PXE-boot via USB mass storage device)&#xD;&#xA;* Any display output port (HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, any flavor du jour) for external HDMI monitors with adapter/converter if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strongly-Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; screen at 1920x1080 or maybe 1920x1200 resolution&#xD;&#xA;* Long battery life for basic tasks (8-9 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* No loud fan noise while on Zoom meetings (i.e. no vacuum cleaner-like sound on the remote side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM or the ability to expand installed RAM for tomorrow's needs such that laptop can continue to be used for another seven years&#xD;&#xA;* No preference on HDD vs. SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 1 TB storage&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port for external monitor/TV without adapter/converter&#xD;&#xA;* Illuminated/backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Bluetooth (possibly for external speakers)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;* CD/DVD drive (at a minimum for gPXE/Etherboot if no RJ-45 port, burning other CDs/DVDs)&#xD;&#xA;* RJ-45 Ethernet port (for PXE-booting the laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been happy with Dell in the past, so I'm looking to continue the trend getting another Dell, but this time I'm looking at **Dell Latitude** laptops, but I'm not sure which model(s) would be sufficient. I believe I won't need any Dell XPS laptop. Once I get the laptop, I'm expecting to replace the OS with **Debian Linux** again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the recent rise in virtual meetings, my N5050 laptop has been getting significant daily use for at-home virtual grade school with **Zoom meetings** in conjunction with opening Google documents (forms, slides, documents, etc.) and Office365 documents, and any other related activities. With Zoom, the laptop fan obviously goes to high speed (i.e. loud), but every couple days the load gets so high with everything else running that the laptops gets unusable and needs to be reset hard. Also - not sure if this is a limitation of the current Zoom for Linux, but there doesn't appear to be any way to use virtual backgrounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the exception of the virtual meeting issue, I've still been primarily content with my N5050 as I have been running Debian on it since I got it, so it has been adequate otherwise for moderate Internet web browsing, running a couple VirtualBox VMs at a time (either one Windows 7 VM for Quicken only or a few other low-RAM Debian/Ubuntu VMs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It still does get sluggish and the load rises if I open several key web sites including certain sites if I go to them without disabling scripts with ScriptSafe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not care to repeat prior experiences in which one laptop's solder joint got loose for the power connector after only two years; another laptop did last for quite a while but eventually the plastic frame around the screen started cracking and eventually did break. So far, I have not had these problems with the N5050.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51086" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="bf153e3b-3af6-4c78-83a5-2e224af4b8df" CreationDate="2020-09-14T11:42:09.293" UserId="4476" Comment="Added two candidate laptops" Text="I'm looking to replace my Dell Inspiron N5050 that I bought in 2013 with 6 GB RAM for $400. I'm again not interested in breaking the bank, but I'm willing to step outside the &quot;budget&quot; grouping this time if needed for a laptop that will last for another seven years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intended uses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Zoom meetings with virtual backgrounds&#xD;&#xA;* Audio/Video editing&#xD;&#xA;* Internet web browsing and e-mail&#xD;&#xA;* Virtual machines&#xD;&#xA;* Docker/Docker Compose/Kubernetes/Rancher containers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Required Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM available today's needs (minimum 8 GB)&#xD;&#xA;* Minimum 100 GB storage including space for OS&#xD;&#xA;* Able to install Debian, i.e.&#xD;&#xA;    * Linux compatible hardware (at a minimum wireless NIC and touch pad)&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard:&#xD;&#xA;    * Must absolutely **not** have the ISO/JIS [Enter key layout](https://superuser.com/a/1368499/315584), preferably has the ANSI Enter key layout.&#xD;&#xA;    * Inverted &quot;T&quot; arrow keys&#xD;&#xA;* Webcam, microphone, speakers for Zoom meetings&#xD;&#xA;* Adequate battery life (3 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* Any USB ports (for external keyboard, external mouse, USB drives, external drives, PXE-boot via USB mass storage device)&#xD;&#xA;* Any display output port (HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, any flavor du jour) for external HDMI monitors with adapter/converter if needed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Strongly-Desired Specifications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 15&quot; screen at 1920x1080 or maybe 1920x1200 resolution&#xD;&#xA;* Long battery life for basic tasks (8-9 hrs between charges without Zoom meetings and A/V editing)&#xD;&#xA;* No loud fan noise while on Zoom meetings (i.e. no vacuum cleaner-like sound on the remote side)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Sufficient RAM or the ability to expand installed RAM for tomorrow's needs such that laptop can continue to be used for another seven years&#xD;&#xA;* No preference on HDD vs. SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 1 TB storage&#xD;&#xA;* HDMI port for external monitor/TV without adapter/converter&#xD;&#xA;* Illuminated/backlit keyboard&#xD;&#xA;* Bluetooth (possibly for external speakers)&#xD;&#xA;* USB 3.0 ports&#xD;&#xA;* CD/DVD drive (at a minimum for gPXE/Etherboot if no RJ-45 port, burning other CDs/DVDs)&#xD;&#xA;* RJ-45 Ethernet port (for PXE-booting the laptop)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been happy with Dell in the past, so I'm looking to continue the trend getting another Dell, but this time I'm looking at **Dell Latitude** laptops, but I'm not sure which model(s) would be sufficient. I believe I won't need any Dell XPS laptop. Once I get the laptop, I'm expecting to replace the OS with **Debian Linux** again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the recent rise in virtual meetings, my N5050 laptop has been getting significant daily use for at-home virtual grade school with **Zoom meetings** in conjunction with opening Google documents (forms, slides, documents, etc.) and Office365 documents, and any other related activities. With Zoom, the laptop fan obviously goes to high speed (i.e. loud), but every couple days the load gets so high with everything else running that the laptops gets unusable and needs to be reset hard. Also - not sure if this is a limitation of the current Zoom for Linux, but there doesn't appear to be any way to use virtual backgrounds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the exception of the virtual meeting issue, I've still been primarily content with my N5050 as I have been running Debian on it since I got it, so it has been adequate otherwise for moderate Internet web browsing, running a couple VirtualBox VMs at a time (either one Windows 7 VM for Quicken only or a few other low-RAM Debian/Ubuntu VMs).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It still does get sluggish and the load rises if I open several key web sites including certain sites if I go to them without disabling scripts with ScriptSafe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would not care to repeat prior experiences in which one laptop's solder joint got loose for the power connector after only two years; another laptop did last for quite a while but eventually the plastic frame around the screen started cracking and eventually did break. So far, I have not had these problems with the N5050.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Update (14 Sep 2020):** I have narrowed the list down to two laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number 1: [Latitude 7400](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/latitude-7400-laptop/spd/latitude-14-7400-laptop/s061l740014us)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Number 2: [Latitude 7400](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/latitude-7400-laptop/spd/latitude-14-7400-laptop/cto02l740014us)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Both of these have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 8th Gen Intel Core I5-8365U processor (4-core, 6 MB cache, 1.6 GHz, vPro-capable)&#xD;&#xA;* 8 GB DDR4 non-ECC RAM&#xD;&#xA;* M.2 256GB NVMe Class 40 SSD&#xD;&#xA;* 14&quot; display&#xD;&#xA;* Intel UHD 620 graphics&#xD;&#xA;* Keyboard with backlight&#xD;&#xA;* 1 Thunderbolt 3 with Power Delivery and DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;* 2 USB 3.1 Gen 1, one with PowerShare&#xD;&#xA;* 1 HDMI 1.4&#xD;&#xA;* 1 Optional external uSIM card tray&#xD;&#xA;* 1 Optional Touch Fingerprint Reader in power button&#xD;&#xA;* 1 DC-in 7.4 mm barrel&#xD;&#xA;* 1 Optional SmartCard Reader&#xD;&#xA;* 1 uSD 4.0 memory card reader&#xD;&#xA;* Dimensions: 0.7&quot; (Front) / 0.75&quot; (Back) height x 12.65&quot; width x 8.42&quot; depth&#xD;&#xA;* Starting Weight: ~3 lbs (Lightweight/Ultrabook)&#xD;&#xA;* Optional RGB HD, IR, or no Camera with Dell Privacy Shutter Noise-reducing array microphones&#xD;&#xA;* High Quality Speakers&#xD;&#xA;* Universal Audio jack&#xD;&#xA;* Skype for Business Certified&#xD;&#xA;* Intel Dual Band Wireless AC 9560 (802.11ac) 2x2 + Bluetooth 5.0&#xD;&#xA;* 4 cell 60 Whr ExpressCharge capable battery&#xD;&#xA;* 3-yr hardware warranty with in-home service after remote diagnosis&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number 1 only:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 14&quot; HD 1366x768 AG&#xD;&#xA;* non-touch screen&#xD;&#xA;* 2.7mm cam/mic&#xD;&#xA;* Carbon Fiber&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Number 2 only:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 14&quot; FHD SafeScreen ePrivacy 1920x1080 AR&#xD;&#xA;* Touchscreen&#xD;&#xA;* 3mm IR cam/mic&#xD;&#xA;* Aluminum&#xD;&#xA;* SafeScreen keyboard&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51092" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14022" RevisionGUID="0dcc22fe-52d0-4eb7-98f4-31e62e8c235f" CreationDate="2020-09-14T13:46:09.057" UserId="16366" Text="I am looking for recommendations for a webcam with **good microphone for low-volume voice** for Chromebook and Windows PC.  &#xD;&#xA;Intended use: Zoom meetings.  &#xD;&#xA;Audio: **The person using it speaks in soft (low volume) voice, so the mic has to be able to transmit the sound well.**  &#xD;&#xA;Video: Average quality is acceptable (audio is much more important).  &#xD;&#xA;Computer: Chromebook (major use) and Dell Inspiron 5000 laptop running Windows 10 (minor use).  &#xD;&#xA;Budget: $30-100.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Found so far these models, but also looking for better alternatives:  &#xD;&#xA;[GESMA Webcam with Microphone, 1080P HD Streaming USB Computer Webcam [Plug and Play] [30fps] for PC Video Conferencing/Calling/Gaming, Laptop/Desktop Mac, Skype/YouTube/Zoom/Facetime](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087NN41JH/)  &#xD;&#xA;[Microsoft LifeCam HD-3000](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZVRAQS/)  &#xD;&#xA;[NexiGo 2020 1080P 60FPS Webcam with Microphone, NexiGo N980P HD USB Web Camera, Built-in Dual Noise Reduction Mics, 120 Degrees Wide-Angle for Zoom YouTube Skype FaceTime Hangouts, PC Mac Laptop Desktop](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHPBP65/)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51093" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14022" RevisionGUID="0dcc22fe-52d0-4eb7-98f4-31e62e8c235f" CreationDate="2020-09-14T13:46:09.057" UserId="16366" Text="webcam with good microphone for low-volume voice for Chromebook and Windows PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51094" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14022" RevisionGUID="0dcc22fe-52d0-4eb7-98f4-31e62e8c235f" CreationDate="2020-09-14T13:46:09.057" UserId="16366" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;&lt;chromebook&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51095" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14017" RevisionGUID="6519a874-6b54-4a24-8c10-7daca3e044bc" CreationDate="2020-09-14T17:27:31.610" UserId="16362" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I'm finally catching up w/ the 21st century and bought my first pair of truly wireless earbuds: the Sony WF-1000XM3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My issue is that audio quality degrades significantly when I connect them to my computer and enable the microphone. To do this, I have to switch from High Fidelity Playback (A2DP Sink) to Headset Unit (HSP/HFP), which forces the output to go from Stereo to Mono.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For ~$200+, I was hoping to have better audio quality than my cheap wired earbuds+mic. I already bought 2 other earbuds at different price points and noticed similar or worse issues. Tried with Airpods Pro as well, but since I'm not on a Mac, I could never get the mic working.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short, I'm wondering if things change significantly with something like the Sennheiser Momentum 2 (or higher price point), or if I should consider non-truly wireless earphones, if I want quality audio and mic?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14026" RevisionGUID="8b9c7318-ab71-4dc6-a962-e64f2fb771c1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T02:42:08.900" UserId="40" Text="I am looking for a webcam that has a built-in background removal feature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Built-in = done in the webcam firmware, and not on the operating system of the device to which the webcam is attached.&#xD;&#xA;- Background removal feature = only shows the human face/upper body that appears on the video&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: up to around 300USD (no hard limit)&#xD;&#xA;- Preferred country of purchase: United States&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible operating system: Windows 7 SP1 x64 Ultimate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51118" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14026" RevisionGUID="8b9c7318-ab71-4dc6-a962-e64f2fb771c1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T02:42:08.900" UserId="40" Text="Webcam that has a built-in background removal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51119" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14026" RevisionGUID="8b9c7318-ab71-4dc6-a962-e64f2fb771c1" CreationDate="2020-09-16T02:42:08.900" UserId="40" Text="&lt;windows&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51120" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14026" RevisionGUID="0e4188b9-1a0c-4d0a-a0b5-d6aa51ce176b" CreationDate="2020-09-16T02:49:16.753" UserId="40" Comment="edited title" Text="Webcam with built-in background removal" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51121" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="6b1b3141-4afc-491b-8775-937ca2488637" CreationDate="2020-09-16T03:01:35.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51124" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14027" RevisionGUID="f2b24c35-73da-4920-857a-35a35e7c0f15" CreationDate="2020-09-16T14:52:01.753" UserId="10648" Text="**An [A2DP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Advanced_Audio_Distribution_Profile_(A2DP)) stream is Mono-Directional by design.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;That means a typical device using the A2DP profile will not be capable of streaming audio bi-directionally over the same connection. It's possible that a device could implement two separate Bluetooth streams to carry A2DP (stereo) and HSP/A2DP (mic) in opposite directions. But this would need a more complicated chipset and support from the audio source. It may not be suitable for the size constraints of &quot;truly wireless&quot; earbuds." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51125" PostHistoryTypeId="12" PostId="14027" RevisionGUID="2f1352fd-9d48-4f6f-9422-38e56af6ea71" CreationDate="2020-09-16T14:59:11.900" UserId="10648" Comment="via Vote" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="51126" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14027" RevisionGUID="fc028488-9e66-4f40-bf81-f7938ee32f34" CreationDate="2020-09-16T15:02:56.830" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="**Each [A2DP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Advanced_Audio_Distribution_Profile_(A2DP)) &quot;service&quot; is Mono-Directional.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A typical device using the A2DP profile will not support more than one service (i.e. audio stream), but it's possible. This would need a more complicated chipset so it may not be suitable for the size constraints of &quot;truly wireless&quot; earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I can't recommend any headphones that do this because I haven't found a pair myself. It is often cheaper/simpler for the headset to switch to HSP for bi-directional audio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51127" PostHistoryTypeId="13" PostId="14027" RevisionGUID="7d9a786a-3f22-46a4-893d-8085a5f3e804" CreationDate="2020-09-16T15:02:59.557" UserId="10648" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:10648,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Romen&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="51128" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14027" RevisionGUID="1a71508d-5821-4a65-bd72-a27d9f113583" CreationDate="2020-09-16T15:32:39.667" UserId="10648" Comment="added 10 characters in body" Text="**Each [A2DP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Advanced_Audio_Distribution_Profile_(A2DP)) &quot;service&quot; is Mono-Directional.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A typical device using the A2DP profile for music will not support more than one service (i.e. audio stream), but it's possible. This would need a more complicated chipset so it may not be suitable for the size constraints of &quot;truly wireless&quot; earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately I can't recommend any headphones that do this because I haven't found a pair myself. It is often cheaper/simpler for the headset to switch to HSP for bi-directional audio." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51149" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14032" RevisionGUID="c3247f14-7433-4c66-aaf4-697f10d8c775" CreationDate="2020-09-17T00:19:26.273" UserId="6079" Text="Sounds like the Nexdock Touch could do the job for you. I don't know. Let me know if you get it. I'm curious about it myself. :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51158" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14035" RevisionGUID="dd81dd25-4108-4dde-b3d7-f179f569df5f" CreationDate="2020-09-17T15:59:57.553" UserId="16387" Text="I'm taking up a major project for my final year in college through which I plan on learning about the ARM architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to build my own custom development board instead of using a pre-designed one. I understand the time and effort this will take and my professors and mentors will help me through this process.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I need the development board to run be able to run linux OS. I will be programming in C++.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Wi-Fi is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I will also be using voice recognition for voice commands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I will need to connect a few sensors and actuators.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Low power and long lasting on battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. An LCD or LED display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is a project, I'm looking for cheaper options. I do not want to use something like an arduino or raspberry pi simply because I want to have this learning experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a complete beginner in ARM architecture and honestly do not know where to start. I've programmed on an Atmel architecture in the past(on a pre-designed development board) as well as arduino.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for taking the time to read this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See ya!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51159" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14035" RevisionGUID="dd81dd25-4108-4dde-b3d7-f179f569df5f" CreationDate="2020-09-17T15:59:57.553" UserId="16387" Text="Which ARM micro controller should I choose for my major project? (Please read description)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51160" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14035" RevisionGUID="dd81dd25-4108-4dde-b3d7-f179f569df5f" CreationDate="2020-09-17T15:59:57.553" UserId="16387" Text="&lt;embedded-systems&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51163" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14035" RevisionGUID="ca03de6b-1298-476f-a2cd-4a37c165dcd1" CreationDate="2020-09-17T16:05:04.657" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 58 characters in body; edited title" Text="I'm taking up a major project for my final year in college through which I plan on learning about the ARM architecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to build my own custom development board instead of using a pre-designed one. I understand the time and effort this will take and my professors and mentors will help me through this process.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I need the development board to run be able to run linux OS. I will be programming in C++.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Wi-Fi is a must.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. I will also be using voice recognition for voice commands.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. I will need to connect a few sensors and actuators.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. Low power and long lasting on battery.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. An LCD or LED display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As this is a project, I'm looking for cheaper options. I do not want to use something like an arduino or raspberry pi simply because I want to have this learning experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a complete beginner in ARM architecture and honestly do not know where to start. I've programmed on an Atmel architecture in the past(on a pre-designed development board) as well as arduino." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51164" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14035" RevisionGUID="ca03de6b-1298-476f-a2cd-4a37c165dcd1" CreationDate="2020-09-17T16:05:04.657" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 58 characters in body; edited title" Text="Which ARM micro controller should I choose for my major project?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51165" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14036" RevisionGUID="8a9ed8d0-b6bf-402f-896c-245aead8f221" CreationDate="2020-09-18T03:12:10.983" UserId="16378" Text="I was hoping someone could recommend a great blu-ray burner and player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - My first requirement is that it can burn M-Disc 100 gig blu-ray&#xD;&#xA;   discs.  I have tons of business documents, home photos and home videos.  The business documents don't take up that much space but the home videos is what takes up a lot.  I have a camcorder and I end up recording about 500 gigs of home videos per year.  Right now, they are saved on a hard drive but I don't want my precious memories to get lost.  I want to be able to see them 30 years from now.&#xD;&#xA; - The second requirement is that it can play Ultra HD 4k movies.  This is not a really a must-have.  There aren't that many 4k movies out anyway.  I think only a few 4k movies were even available last year.  In a couple of years, 4k movies might become more commonplace though so it might be nice to have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend the best blu-ray burner/player right now?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51166" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14036" RevisionGUID="8a9ed8d0-b6bf-402f-896c-245aead8f221" CreationDate="2020-09-18T03:12:10.983" UserId="16378" Text="Best Blu-Ray Burner and Reader" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51167" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14036" RevisionGUID="8a9ed8d0-b6bf-402f-896c-245aead8f221" CreationDate="2020-09-18T03:12:10.983" UserId="16378" Text="&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51168" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14037" RevisionGUID="986322c0-ef18-4845-a39d-0599c2273ca4" CreationDate="2020-09-18T06:13:12.480" UserId="16390" Text="It seems that in a very large variety of Modem Routers (Wired solutions) or Access point (wireless solutions) there seems to be an option for static and specific limit per user. For example 4Mbps max upload and 10Mbps max upload per user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However the need here is to have the network device distribute the full range of the available bandwidth to the users. The requirement is that if you have 3 users sharing 30Mbps available from ISP to be able and simultaneously download at 10, 10 and 10 Mbps each, etc. An additional requirement would be to set percentages in that 70% for first and 15% and 15% for the other two would mean that ~21Mbps would be available for first user and the rest of 9 Mbps would be distributed evenly among second and a third user. Note that if the first two users have disconnected then third user is expected to happily enjoy the full speed of 30Mbps&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there solutions that are offering something similar to the above scenario ?&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51169" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14037" RevisionGUID="986322c0-ef18-4845-a39d-0599c2273ca4" CreationDate="2020-09-18T06:13:12.480" UserId="16390" Text="Is there a router or access point which enforces bandwidth limits only when the traffic is high?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51170" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14037" RevisionGUID="986322c0-ef18-4845-a39d-0599c2273ca4" CreationDate="2020-09-18T06:13:12.480" UserId="16390" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51191" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14041" RevisionGUID="50f01bf4-a76b-4b3f-819d-28b9ac61df6a" CreationDate="2020-09-20T03:05:04.623" UserId="16395" Text="[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I saw a post with the pinout of a USB cable with Green for Data(-) and White for Data(+).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After warning about this polarization, the author of the post wrote:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The function of data colors may vary depending on the country&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Standard hardware for USB cable set to green for Data + and white for Data- is ignored in which country?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aq4zx.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51192" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14041" RevisionGUID="50f01bf4-a76b-4b3f-819d-28b9ac61df6a" CreationDate="2020-09-20T03:05:04.623" UserId="16395" Text="USB Cable. Can the function of data colors vary depending on the country?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51193" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14041" RevisionGUID="50f01bf4-a76b-4b3f-819d-28b9ac61df6a" CreationDate="2020-09-20T03:05:04.623" UserId="16395" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51195" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14026" RevisionGUID="43fda72b-4ace-4170-b779-633e2557adb2" CreationDate="2020-09-20T03:33:57.370" UserId="40" Comment="added 9 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a webcam that has a built-in background removal feature. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Built-in = done in the webcam firmware+hardware, and not on the operating system of the device to which the webcam is attached.&#xD;&#xA;- Background removal feature = only shows the human face/upper body that appears on the video&#xD;&#xA;- Budget: up to around 300USD (no hard limit)&#xD;&#xA;- Preferred country of purchase: United States&#xD;&#xA;- Compatible operating system: Windows 7 SP1 x64 Ultimate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51204" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14045" RevisionGUID="626f726f-3995-41e7-85a7-a8855b3bacbc" CreationDate="2020-09-20T16:37:52.470" UserId="16398" Text="Which would drain a laptop battery less, a USB (LED) mouse or a bluetooth mouse? Nothing fancy, just a basic travel 3 button mouse in each case." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51205" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14045" RevisionGUID="626f726f-3995-41e7-85a7-a8855b3bacbc" CreationDate="2020-09-20T16:37:52.470" UserId="16398" Text="USB mouse vs. Bluetooth mouse -- less battery drain" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51206" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14045" RevisionGUID="626f726f-3995-41e7-85a7-a8855b3bacbc" CreationDate="2020-09-20T16:37:52.470" UserId="16398" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51207" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14046" RevisionGUID="4c81581e-4992-402a-9e8b-de4b822c6ce2" CreationDate="2020-09-20T22:07:39.140" UserId="13421" Text="Consider that the USB mouse has to power an *extra* transmitter. If Bluetooth is turned on *anyway*, then your laptop is powering *two* RF devices, so using just Bluetooth would be somewhat more efficient.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, if you've actually turned off Bluetooth communication, then there would be little difference in power used between an external USB RF dongle and the internal Bluetooth device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**However, both those RF devices use little power** compared to the laptop CPU, SSD or HHD, RAM and LCD backlight. The [Bluetooth specifications][1] show *maximum* power allowed is 100 mW, and when operating short-range (1 m), the power used might be 1 mW. That is probably between 1/100 and 1/10,000 the power used by the CPU alone. Likely, you'd not be able to measure the difference in battery usage with *any* type of RF mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;High-power RF devices, such as [cellular modems][2], do consume more power, because the signal must reach a tower hundreds of meters distant. A WiFi adapter uses less power than a cellular modem, but it must still have a range of tens of meters, so turning off WiFi or reducing its range can extend run time. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/cellular-modem" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51212" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14048" RevisionGUID="5e4d08ea-2c4f-4bf8-a4bc-24142750166f" CreationDate="2020-09-21T01:46:31.120" UserId="16400" Text="I was thinking of a USB mouse with a cable that plugs into a USB port, not a wireless mouse with an RF dongle. If I were to use such a mouse, I'd turn Bluetooth off. The question is would a cable-connected USB mouse that got its power via the USB port drain the battery less than a Bluetooth mouse. Thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51213" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8521" RevisionGUID="519707f3-1bf0-4ee3-ad8c-27ad304c1003" CreationDate="2020-09-21T02:01:35.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51214" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14049" RevisionGUID="be5be2d5-075b-4a7c-a3ad-bc96337275a6" CreationDate="2020-09-21T22:23:11.043" UserId="14347" Text="I need flash drives with LEDs, which is like needing dodo birds. LEDs are disappearing from major-brand flash drive models (I suspect so people will yank them at the worst times, inadvertently kill them, not know why, and have to buy replacements more often). At least some models of one brand seem to have been unchanged except for removal or disabling of the LED. I thought I found some flash thumb drives anyway, but two I bought, under different brands, turned out to be U disks sold as flash drives (at least one internally calls itself a flash drive). The retailer sales pages said what they were, calling one model both a U disk and a flash drive, but I didn't notice before buying. Their prices were competitive; no premium. Their outer dimensions are like those of other thumb drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a couple of minor websites describing them, and I suspect one website infringed the copyright of the other, so I didn’t find much, even though they've been manufactured for years. Apparently, these are magnetic hard drives, which is astonishing, considering their size. I couldn't find much through Google about platters that must be less than half an inch across and yet hold 16GB. I don't know if it's one platter working on one side only; a stack of platters with multiple R/W arms in a thin package is even more astonishing. I wish I could safely X ray them to see inside. At least one is slow; writing that took maybe 20 minutes onto a flash drive was slated to take at least a couple of hours onto a U disk.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm having reliability problems, don't trust them yet, and have not yet put them into production use. With a FAT32 format receiving from Linux, the only way I could erase all the content, even though I owned all of it under a nonroot account, was by reformatting it; before I did that, it refused to let me liberalize my permissions through the GUI. This seems to show unreliability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if hard drives are really that tiny now and yet not existing in laptops, never mind server towers. I would imagine a laptop’s platters should hold a petabyte or two, even at today’s prices for laptops. It seems unlikely that U disks being hard drives is utter fiction and someone has been getting away with this for a bunch of years, but are they real but awful and so no one wants to put U disk platters (smaller than a dime) into desktop machines yet?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm still shopping for a flash drive with an LED that's not a U disk. I've exhausted Newegg, Amazon, and a couple of others. I'm trying Froogle.com. One retailer revealed that a flash drive is a U disk but only in text embedded within an image that you have to select to view. Checking a product against what its manufacturer's website says reveals some contradictions, especially about LEDs (manufacturers may not offer LEDs though retailers claim them). (I'm also avoiding cutesy designs and thumbs meant as premiums with logos because I want longer life, but that's something else.) The shopping used to be easy." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51215" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14049" RevisionGUID="be5be2d5-075b-4a7c-a3ad-bc96337275a6" CreationDate="2020-09-21T22:23:11.043" UserId="14347" Text="are U disks much good or even real?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51216" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14049" RevisionGUID="be5be2d5-075b-4a7c-a3ad-bc96337275a6" CreationDate="2020-09-21T22:23:11.043" UserId="14347" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;led&gt;&lt;flash-drive&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51217" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="ad164d05-c2d2-4043-957d-d8c0503201e1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T01:35:22.340" UserId="16403" Text="I am looking for some great quality sound headset as well as microphone level close to pro/studio level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really enjoy the sound quality and bass line on my **Marshall Major III Bluetooth** headset as well as their long battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;however the *mic is absolutely terrible there*, it is so sensitive that sometimes it is not even possible to have a talk or a meeting if there is any slight background noise around.  &#xD;&#xA;For example, I had a call whole the kids were playing on the garden about 15 meter (50 feet) from me and my friend could not hear me because kids were screaming so loud for her, however for me it was just a slight background noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So is there any Bluetooth headset with similar or better sound quality as well as close to professional level microphone with a short range (just enough for speaking) in it?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any options that users *can connect external hardware microphone* to the headset?&#xD;&#xA;I don't know is such ones exist though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other features like noise reduction, extended BT range, long battery life, comfort controls and so on are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is **up to $500**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you guys can suggest me something really worthy from your own experience I will highly appreciate it! But good mic is the most important for me.  &#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFby7m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51218" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="ad164d05-c2d2-4043-957d-d8c0503201e1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T01:35:22.340" UserId="16403" Text="Bluetooth headset with pro-like mic" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51219" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="ad164d05-c2d2-4043-957d-d8c0503201e1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T01:35:22.340" UserId="16403" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51223" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="42e6cdd1-df9d-4071-a069-8fa422b6df62" CreationDate="2020-09-22T12:20:54.300" UserId="16403" Comment="typo fix" Text="I am looking for some great quality sound headset as well as microphone level close to pro/studio level.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really enjoy the sound quality and bass line on my **Marshall Major III Bluetooth** headset as well as their long battery life&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;however the *mic is absolutely terrible there*, it is so sensitive that sometimes it is not even possible to have a talk or a meeting if there is any slight background noise around.  &#xD;&#xA;For example, I had a call while the kids were playing on the garden about 15 meter (50 feet) from me and my friend could not hear me because kids were screaming so loud for her, however for me it was just a slight background noise.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**So is there any Bluetooth headset with similar or better sound quality as well as close to professional level microphone with a short range (just enough for speaking) in it?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any options that users *can connect external hardware microphone* to the headset?&#xD;&#xA;I don't know is such ones exist though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other features like noise reduction, extended BT range, long battery life, comfort controls and so on are welcome.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is **up to $500**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you guys can suggest me something really worthy from your own experience I will highly appreciate it! But good mic is the most important for me.  &#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFby7m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51224" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14052" RevisionGUID="dea4a97b-0028-4fff-8eff-3b60fd6c757c" CreationDate="2020-09-22T18:04:59.460" UserId="16406" Text="I am working on a project which requires me to capture packets that don't pass the CRC 32 check. I did some digging and came across ethtool utility, using which we can change ethernet device parameters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To allow the capture of packets, which do not pass the CRC 32 I need to use the following command:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ethtool -K *DEVname* -fcs on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ethtool -K *DEVname* -rx all on&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, for most NICs this option is fixed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need help finding cards that are capable of changing the -rx all option. Also, How can we check if a particular card has the option non-fixed, before purchasing it as I was unable to find documentation that explicitly specifies this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51225" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14052" RevisionGUID="dea4a97b-0028-4fff-8eff-3b60fd6c757c" CreationDate="2020-09-22T18:04:59.460" UserId="16406" Text="NIC capable of receiving Corrupt frames" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51226" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14052" RevisionGUID="dea4a97b-0028-4fff-8eff-3b60fd6c757c" CreationDate="2020-09-22T18:04:59.460" UserId="16406" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51227" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14053" RevisionGUID="cc87d502-198a-4af7-8cbf-dedb7715a320" CreationDate="2020-09-23T02:12:07.607" UserId="13812" Text="I never thought I'd see this, but I saw a Yamaha digital piano once that had a port for a bass pedal controller. It of course had a pipe organ and a Hammond organ voice. I'd like something similar, or maybe the piano itself, though I don't remember the model.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only other feature I'd like to see is having one or more organ voices and the ability to disable attack. I ask for the cheapest three in case the bottommost isn't so good." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51228" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14053" RevisionGUID="cc87d502-198a-4af7-8cbf-dedb7715a320" CreationDate="2020-09-23T02:12:07.607" UserId="13812" Text="Cheapest 3 digital pianos with option for bass pedal control" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51229" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14053" RevisionGUID="cc87d502-198a-4af7-8cbf-dedb7715a320" CreationDate="2020-09-23T02:12:07.607" UserId="13812" Text="&lt;music&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51230" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="dbf6faba-6f09-4a10-a31d-dca20f87fa95" CreationDate="2020-09-23T03:05:20.573" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14055" RevisionGUID="c32bc2ae-4d6f-4c47-939f-d919dba814b7" CreationDate="2020-09-23T13:41:33.173" UserId="14498" Text="Let compare electric components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I. The bluetooth is  controller + bt.&#xD;&#xA;The WT12-A-AI5 (I found the datasheet) current is 31,5mA (Data transmitted @ 115200bps) * 3,6v. The power is 0,012 watt (max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;II. The wire mouse power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wire mouse is - 1.controller + 2.camera + 3.led.&#xD;&#xA;1. The USB controller power do not know. I think the controller power can be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;2. The camera is ADNS-2610 15mА*5V = 0,075 watt&#xD;&#xA;3. The led power BL-B51V1 is 3,3v* 10mA = 0,033 watt&#xD;&#xA;Totally mouse power can not be less then 0,1 watt.&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;All ok, the wired mouse is more powerfull then bluetooth module (separettly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let compare with the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically a laptop has a 48 W*h battery and 2 hower of work. It's mean that a notebook power is 24 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: 0,1 watt of 24 watt is 0,4% of total power. &#xD;&#xA;The 2 hower * 0,4% is approximately 30 seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop without a mouse will run 30 seconds longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop with a bluetooth mouse will run 26 seconds longer (The result may not be exactly the same, but the ratio of the values will be similar.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14055" RevisionGUID="1f2170a5-fafc-4ec1-a2cf-d54c0b041755" CreationDate="2020-09-23T14:06:50.093" UserId="14498" Comment="added 36 characters in body" Text="Let compare electric components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I. The bluetooth is  controller + bt.&#xD;&#xA;The WT12-A-AI5 (I found the datasheet) current is 31,5mA (Data transmitted @ 115200bps) * 3,6v. The power is 0,012 watt (max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;II. The wire mouse power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wire mouse is - 1.controller + 2.camera + 3.led.&#xD;&#xA;1. The USB controller power do not know. I think the controller power can be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;2. The camera is ADNS-2610 15mА*5V = 0,075 watt&#xD;&#xA;3. The led power BL-B51V1 is 3,3v* 10mA = 0,033 watt&#xD;&#xA;Totally mouse power can not be less then 0,1 watt.&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;All ok, the wired mouse is more powerfull then bluetooth module (separettly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let compare with the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically a laptop has a 48 W*h battery and 2 hower of work. It's mean that a notebook power is 24 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: 0,1 watt of 24 watt is 0,4% of total power. &#xD;&#xA;The 2 hower * 0,4% is approximately 30 seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Сonclusions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop without a mouse will run 30 seconds longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop with a bluetooth mouse will run 26 seconds longer than wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;  (The result may not be exactly the same, but the ratio of the values will be similar.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51234" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14055" RevisionGUID="bf1483de-10b6-4e53-b850-ae6a8c65661b" CreationDate="2020-09-23T14:47:00.183" UserId="14498" Comment="added 368 characters in body" Text="Let compare electric components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I. The bluetooth is  controller + bt.&#xD;&#xA;The WT12-A-AI5 (I found the datasheet) current is 31,5mA (Data transmitted @ 115200bps) * 3,6v. The power is 0,012 watt (max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;II. The wire mouse power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wire mouse is - 1.controller + 2.camera + 3.led.&#xD;&#xA;1. The USB controller power do not know. I think the controller power can be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;2. The camera is ADNS-2610 15mА*5V = 0,075 watt&#xD;&#xA;3. The led power BL-B51V1 is 3,3v* 10mA = 0,033 watt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also ADNS-2700 is full-mouse 35ma*5V+0,03watt = 0,2 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Totally mouse power can not be less then 0,1 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Wired mouse power typically 0,1 - 0,2 Watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;All ok, the wired mouse is more powerfull then bluetooth module (separettly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let compare with the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically a laptop 15`` has a 48 W*h battery and 2 hower of work. It's mean that a notebook power is 24 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: 0,1 watt of 24 watt is 0,4% of total power. &#xD;&#xA;The 2 hower * 0,4% is approximately 30 seconds (0,1 watt) or 60 seconds 0,2 watt mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Сonclusions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop without a mouse will run 30-60 seconds longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop with a bluetooth mouse will run 26-50 seconds longer than wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;  (The result may not be exactly the same, but the ratio of the values will be similar.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can take the power of the battery and the number of hours, substitute and estimate the number of seconds for your case. I think the result will be no more than 5 minutes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51235" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14055" RevisionGUID="0c42d9eb-6138-439a-b5c6-8bb001e49688" CreationDate="2020-09-23T15:10:16.757" UserId="14498" Comment="added 111 characters in body" Text="Let compare electric components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I. The bluetooth is  controller + bt.&#xD;&#xA;The WT12-A-AI5 (I found the datasheet) current is 31,5mA (Data transmitted @ 115200bps) * 3,6v. The power is 0,012 watt (max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;II. The wire mouse power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wire mouse is - 1.controller + 2.camera + 3.led.&#xD;&#xA;1. The USB controller power do not know. I think the controller power can be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;2. The camera is ADNS-2610 15mА*5V = 0,075 watt&#xD;&#xA;3. The led power BL-B51V1 is 3,3v* 10mA = 0,033 watt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also ADNS-2700 is full-mouse 35ma*5V+0,03watt = 0,2 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Totally mouse power can not be less then 0,1 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See also http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/131846/how-much-power-does-a-wireless-mouse-use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wired mouse power typically 0,1 - 0,2 Watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;All ok, the wired mouse is more powerfull then bluetooth module (separettly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let compare with the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically a laptop 15`` has a 48 W*h battery and 2 hower of work. It's mean that a notebook power is 24 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: 0,1 watt of 24 watt is 0,4% of total power. &#xD;&#xA;The 2 hower * 0,4% is approximately 30 seconds (0,1 watt) or 60 seconds 0,2 watt mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Сonclusions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop without a mouse will run 30-60 seconds longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop with a bluetooth mouse will run 26-50 seconds longer than wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;  (The result may not be exactly the same, but the ratio of the values will be similar.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can take the power of the battery and the number of hours, substitute and estimate the number of seconds for your case. I think the result will be no more than 5 minutes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51236" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14055" RevisionGUID="94d8a787-a0be-4c5d-a7a0-b211760b4ff2" CreationDate="2020-09-23T15:43:10.970" UserId="14498" Comment="added 125 characters in body" Text="Let compare electric components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I. The bluetooth is  controller + bt.&#xD;&#xA;The WT12-A-AI5 (I found the datasheet) current is 31,5mA (Data transmitted @ 115200bps) * 3,6v. The power is 0,012 watt (max)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;II. The wire mouse power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The wire mouse is - 1.controller + 2.camera + 3.led.&#xD;&#xA;1. The USB controller power do not know. I think the controller power can be ignored.&#xD;&#xA;2. The camera is ADNS-2610 15mА*5V = 0,075 watt&#xD;&#xA;3. The led power BL-B51V1 is 3,3v* 10mA = 0,033 watt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also ADNS-2700 is full-mouse 35ma*5V+0,03watt = 0,2 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Totally mouse power can not be less then 0,1 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See also http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/131846/how-much-power-does-a-wireless-mouse-use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A wired mouse power typically 0,1 - 0,2 Watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------&#xD;&#xA;All ok, the wired mouse is more powerfull then bluetooth module (separettly).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let compare with the notebook.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Typically a laptop 15`` has a 48 W*h battery and 2 hower of work. It's mean that a notebook power is 24 watt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See: 0,1 watt of 24 watt is 0,4% of total power. &#xD;&#xA;The 2 hower * 0,4% is approximately 30 seconds (0,1 watt) or 60 seconds 0,2 watt mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;-------------------------&#xD;&#xA;Сonclusions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop without a mouse will run 30-60 seconds longer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- А laptop with a bluetooth mouse will run 26-50 seconds longer than wired mouse&#xD;&#xA;  (The result may not be exactly the same, but the ratio of the values will be similar.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can take the power of the battery and the number of hours, substitute and estimate the number of seconds for your case. I think the result will be no more than 5 minutes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51237" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14056" RevisionGUID="f75dcb51-2e72-483d-b52c-a36133837ab6" CreationDate="2020-09-23T18:21:03.193" UserId="16381" Text="I current have `AMD64 Family 16 Model 5 Stepping 3 AuthenticAMD ~3100 Mhz` CPU on a `Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3 AMD 770 DDR3 1666(OC) Soket AM3 Anakart` motherboard. I haven't upgraded my PC In a while but I've just bought an Oculus Quest 2 AR Headset and I'm interested in creating some AR games using [Spark AR][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I try and run Spark AR I get `&quot;Spark AR Requires a CPU that supports SSE4.1 instructions&quot;` &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum software requirements are below &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i3 2.5Ghz, or AMD Bulldozer/Jaguar/Puma/Zen with SSE4.1 instruction set. Processors produced in the last decade will likely support this instruction set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so any recommendations on CPU and will I need a new motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;What are my options from here? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://sparkar.facebook.com/ar-studio/learn/downloads#spark-ar-player-app" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51238" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14056" RevisionGUID="f75dcb51-2e72-483d-b52c-a36133837ab6" CreationDate="2020-09-23T18:21:03.193" UserId="16381" Text="New CPU Upgrade And Requirements To Run Software" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51239" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14056" RevisionGUID="f75dcb51-2e72-483d-b52c-a36133837ab6" CreationDate="2020-09-23T18:21:03.193" UserId="16381" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51240" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14056" RevisionGUID="9571da12-4819-4c97-9519-a7df8759d12f" CreationDate="2020-09-23T19:06:01.763" UserId="16381" Comment="deleted 37 characters in body" Text="I current have `AMD Athalon 2 X3 445` CPU on a `Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3 AMD 770 DDR3 1666(OC) Soket AM3 Anakart` motherboard. I haven't upgraded my PC In a while but I've just bought an Oculus Quest 2 AR Headset and I'm interested in creating some AR games using [Spark AR][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I try and run Spark AR I get `&quot;Spark AR Requires a CPU that supports SSE4.1 instructions&quot;` &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The minimum software requirements are below &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Intel Core i3 2.5Ghz, or AMD Bulldozer/Jaguar/Puma/Zen with SSE4.1 instruction set. Processors produced in the last decade will likely support this instruction set.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;so any recommendations on CPU and will I need a new motherboard? &#xD;&#xA;What are my options from here? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://sparkar.facebook.com/ar-studio/learn/downloads#spark-ar-player-app" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51244" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14058" RevisionGUID="b6ec3e77-8e2f-460c-a081-373552746e96" CreationDate="2020-09-24T08:34:11.427" UserId="16410" Text="This is my first time asking and I am not sure if I should ask this question here since I need something related to hardware and software I thought of giving it a try.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a hardware device that has an API (dll library) to control it. I am trying to find out what is the best way to have a **web user interface** that can use this library and control this device. Something same as what routers usually have.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My requirements are:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The web user interface must work on all platforms (any operating&#xD;&#xA;    system with a browser)&#xD;&#xA; 2. It must use the same api. (My API is a C++ dll compiled on windows)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that it is flexible to add parts to the hardware such as a raspberry pi which could act as a web server, but I have to note that the api has a lot of processing so I would need a processor with high processing performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My questions are:**&#xD;&#xA;1. How do routers implement such thing.&#xD;&#xA;2. Do I have to add a web server on the hardware which hosts the web ui requests&#xD;&#xA;3. Is it possible to have something like both the web server and web client on one PC in order to avoid adding a new processor on the hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to clarify the question as much as possible, and thank you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51245" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14058" RevisionGUID="b6ec3e77-8e2f-460c-a081-373552746e96" CreationDate="2020-09-24T08:34:11.427" UserId="16410" Text="How can I implement a web user interface for a hardware device" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51246" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14058" RevisionGUID="b6ec3e77-8e2f-460c-a081-373552746e96" CreationDate="2020-09-24T08:34:11.427" UserId="16410" Text="&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51248" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14010" RevisionGUID="a9f7662f-22ee-430a-bb9a-320296b056d2" CreationDate="2020-09-24T09:47:41.207" UserId="16356" Comment="edited body" Text="I need help finding an LED to work with my project(if I told you what it is you'd say I was stupid, which has already been established by basically everyone). Here's the important stuff;&#xD;&#xA;- It is going to be powered by a [GP SUPERCELL Super Heavy Duty 1604s 6f22 9v battery](https://finddealsfor.me/dealextreme/769/gp-supercell-9v-battery-white-aka-1604s-6f22) that I salvaged from a broken multimeter. &#xD;&#xA;- The LED must be able to remain on for up to three seconds without any risk of overheating or breaking. Assume a break of at least one second between the next strobe. &#xD;&#xA;- It must be able to fit in a tube with an inner diameter of 7 mm(does not include the leads)&#xD;&#xA;- If needed, the power supply can be changed, but only as a last resort&#xD;&#xA;- Overall life before the battery dies needs to be at least five minutes of 'on' time&#xD;&#xA;- Is preferably white light, but yellowed light is OK. RGB LEDs and colored LEDs will not be used. &#xD;&#xA;- Taking apart a flashlight is doable&#xD;&#xA;- no more than $5 in cost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it follows these requests, then please post a link and lumens and I'll use the brightest one from the answers. Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51251" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="4c0782cd-2d2b-436e-9b8b-7df5844ce846" CreationDate="2020-09-24T12:06:55.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51255" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14060" RevisionGUID="ee5e33f6-86e2-4416-b108-7a5144725a7a" CreationDate="2020-09-24T13:41:20.047" UserId="16412" Text="I have a 13 year old tower PC system with a Intel Core 2 Q6600 CPU and 4GB of RAM. This was pretty much high-end back then. It still does what it should and I use it as a Linux-based server for my personal applications which tend to be quite CPU-heavy using all cores. Graphics don't matter.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;However, this thing is just heavy and loud especially since it runs 24/7. Also, I can't really use a modern SSD with it as it has only SATA2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I wish to replace the PC with a slim modern equivalent. With all those miniPCs and alike computers on the market I thought I could put a nice small one of those on my desk and still have the same or better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into the HP ProDesk 405 G4 6QS11EA. It has 16GB of RAM, a quadcore Ryzen 5 CPU and a 512GB SSD. This seems just perfect for my own personal calculation-heavy server use.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;However, this little guy it marketed for office use so I am unsure if am missing anything.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you have other ideas? By budget is up to 600/700€ or $." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51256" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14060" RevisionGUID="ee5e33f6-86e2-4416-b108-7a5144725a7a" CreationDate="2020-09-24T13:41:20.047" UserId="16412" Text="Replacing 13 year old tower with a mini PC like system" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51257" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14060" RevisionGUID="ee5e33f6-86e2-4416-b108-7a5144725a7a" CreationDate="2020-09-24T13:41:20.047" UserId="16412" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14060" RevisionGUID="357fbaca-9081-470f-b306-dd6bfc1c1c2e" CreationDate="2020-09-24T18:09:40.193" UserId="16412" Comment="edited body" Text="I have a 13 year old tower PC system with a Intel Core 2 Q6600 CPU and 4GB of RAM. This was pretty much high-end back then. It still does what it should and I use it as a Linux-based server for my personal applications which tend to be quite CPU-heavy using all cores. Graphics don't matter.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;However, this thing is just heavy and loud especially since it runs 24/7. Also, I can't really use a modern SSD with it as it has only SATA2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I wish to replace the PC with a slim modern equivalent. With all those miniPCs and alike computers on the market I thought I could put a nice small one of those on my desk and still have the same or better performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have looked into the HP ProDesk 405 G4 6QS11EA. It has 16GB of RAM, a quadcore Ryzen 5 CPU and a 512GB SSD. This seems just perfect for my own personal calculation-heavy server use.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;However, this little guy is marketed for office use so I am unsure if am missing anything.&lt;BR&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you have other ideas? By budget is up to 600/700€ or $." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51265" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14061" RevisionGUID="d14282e3-7eb9-4c10-8189-3b782a047238" CreationDate="2020-09-24T19:40:28.483" UserId="16415" Text="For work, there is a robot that I need to monitor and control remotely. I've tried some IP cameras, but they all had horrible latency. The cameras onboard my robot stream perfectly since they are using Theora compression, so at least my network is not any sort of bottleneck.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a good commercial off the shelf solution to having fixed and potentially pan/tilt cameras that can do some sort of video compression to minimize lag. My budget is less than $500 for a camera like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What are some good products that fit the bill? Or, what are some things to look for in a product?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51266" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14061" RevisionGUID="d14282e3-7eb9-4c10-8189-3b782a047238" CreationDate="2020-09-24T19:40:28.483" UserId="16415" Text="Need a low latency but high fidelity solution to remotely monitor a robot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51267" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14061" RevisionGUID="d14282e3-7eb9-4c10-8189-3b782a047238" CreationDate="2020-09-24T19:40:28.483" UserId="16415" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;webcam&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51274" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="a22ab76d-149b-4b6c-a224-0440ce16099e" CreationDate="2020-09-25T01:01:10.127" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51277" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14064" RevisionGUID="05dde0c8-4430-4c08-b410-d2ebf78bbfd6" CreationDate="2020-09-25T07:52:20.477" UserId="16410" Text="I have a hardware device that I want to apply a web user interface on. So I am thinking about adding an embedded hardware web server which can communicate with my hardware (using a software library DLL) and send receive http requests from user.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tricky part is that the DLL does a lot of processing and I am not sure how to decide what is best (performance and price) to choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Processes are mostly reading large number of samples from the device and applying FFT, IFFT, DSP filters and such stuff.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition to the need of having a well responsive web server with that can send these samples to the end user (web client).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I thought of  trying a raspberry pi with an ARM processor but I am not sure how to calculate its performance regarding what my application need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51278" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14064" RevisionGUID="05dde0c8-4430-4c08-b410-d2ebf78bbfd6" CreationDate="2020-09-25T07:52:20.477" UserId="16410" Text="Embedded hardware processor recommendation for web server" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51279" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14064" RevisionGUID="05dde0c8-4430-4c08-b410-d2ebf78bbfd6" CreationDate="2020-09-25T07:52:20.477" UserId="16410" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;web-server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51280" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14065" RevisionGUID="c2a2772e-4e92-44c2-802e-6cd65025f760" CreationDate="2020-09-25T09:01:26.643" UserId="16418" Text="I'm currently automating a process on our farm: The idea is, that when a machine worked on a field, there's a push notification (or mail) sent to my phone at the end of the day telling me which fields were processed, how long it took etc. All the info I'd usually have to write down manually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For now, I've been using GT02a GPS/GPRS trackers for the purpose. They are attached to the tractors fuse boxes, and turn on once the tractor is started. However, the interesting info comes with the implements that have been attached to the tractor (plough/seeder/etc.). As often there is no power supply available right on the implement, I would need an additional plug for the GT02 trackers. In practice, these additional plugs are often forgotten to be attached, so it's not really a reliable solution for now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A (technically) possible alternative would be to add battery powered BLE beacons to the implements, and have a GPS tracker attached to the tractors that also reports on the BLE beacons found in proximity. Basically the same device as the GT02a, but with an additional BLE chip. Also with this technology, I'd like to use my own server/sim cards. &#xD;&#xA;The data the tracker is sending should somewhat look like this (or contain the same info in a different format):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;```js&#xD;&#xA;{&#xD;&#xA;  imei: 12344566,&#xD;&#xA;  time: // timestamp from the ping&#xD;&#xA;  position: [lat,lng],&#xD;&#xA;  beaconsInReach: [{&#xD;&#xA;   id: 'ble_beacon_id',&#xD;&#xA;   rssi: 70   &#xD;&#xA;  },&#xD;&#xA;  // ... further beacons, their ids, and rssi values&#xD;&#xA;  ]&#xD;&#xA;}&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone know about a GPS tracking device capable of this task?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot for you help!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S.: The tractors are not equipped with ODB2 ports as typically found in cars.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51281" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14065" RevisionGUID="c2a2772e-4e92-44c2-802e-6cd65025f760" CreationDate="2020-09-25T09:01:26.643" UserId="16418" Text="Active GPS tracker which also logs BLE beacons in proximity" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51282" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14065" RevisionGUID="c2a2772e-4e92-44c2-802e-6cd65025f760" CreationDate="2020-09-25T09:01:26.643" UserId="16418" Text="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;tracking-devices&gt;&lt;asset-tracking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51287" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="33ae9a67-2b08-4b57-9921-11333e3a375b" CreationDate="2020-09-25T14:41:45.287" UserId="14005" Comment="100" />
  <row Id="51289" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="6b06cd1f-c2e0-4ab9-89a8-2b9953e89768" CreationDate="2020-09-25T15:28:30.737" UserId="16420" Text="I'm working on anonymous system that requires pre-registration. I need a fingerprint scanner that sign output data with secret key. I tried google but can't find something suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Scanner must sign output data automatically (preferably RSA) using its own hardware resources.&#xD;&#xA;- Secret key must be embedded in scanner by manufacturer and can't be extractable.&#xD;&#xA;- Secret key can be exclusive for each scanner or be the same for one manufacturer or similar models.&#xD;&#xA;- Output data can be minutiae data or LSH (preferably LSH).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The thing is, owner of scanner is not trusted and can publish random data disguised as fingerprint data. Described scanner will resolve this problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there scanner like described?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51290" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="6b06cd1f-c2e0-4ab9-89a8-2b9953e89768" CreationDate="2020-09-25T15:28:30.737" UserId="16420" Text="Is there autosigning fingerprint scanner?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51291" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="6b06cd1f-c2e0-4ab9-89a8-2b9953e89768" CreationDate="2020-09-25T15:28:30.737" UserId="16420" Text="&lt;fingerprint-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51293" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="6473bb33-f4ce-48ed-af5b-db6ec70a41f3" CreationDate="2020-09-25T17:44:34.853" UserId="24" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:24,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;peterh - Reinstate Monica&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="51298" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14069" RevisionGUID="de4ea200-0ab2-49d0-b9f4-d41d17bc26bf" CreationDate="2020-09-25T19:50:38.250" UserId="16421" Text="I would like to get rid of cable clutter and enhance my desk. However, I'm struggling to find the components for making it work. What I would like to do is including ports in the table, mainly Ethernet and USB ports. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ethernet is the easy part, for instance I could just use some keystone frame such as [this][1] (although I'd hope for something more efficient, space-wise, 4 on an 8cm diameter element seems a bit few) and put Ethernet keystone modules in it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB part is the tricky one. I want different kinds of USB ports, the most important ones are:&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt 3 ports (NOT USB-C 3.1 ports), supporting 40 Gbps if cable length is not too long (and 20 Gbps otherwise), with support for Apple's PD profiles up to 100W (18W, 87W, and 96W). I can't find any keystones doing this, not even USB-C above 60W. What I found is a [panel mount cable][2], but this only seems to be available in wholesale (500+ units, I maybe need 5) from China, and I don't think it's ideal with the screws, I haven't found any frames to put into a table for which this would be suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In addition, some USB-A Ports (3.0+, with ability to charge devices through them) and we're good. I doubt those will be an issue. Overall, if I'd manage 4 ports each (4 Ethernet, 4 TB3, 4 USB-A) I'd be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas for any put-in-desk frames where I could include such ports, as efficient as possible? Also for the modules for the ports I mentioned, in particular the TB3 ports?&#xD;&#xA;No restrictions on the system, if it's keystone that's good, if it's anything else that's fine, too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.delock.de/produkte/G_86283/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.agalink.com/40gbps-thunderbolt-3-male-to-female-ethernet-panel-mount-extension-cable.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51299" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14069" RevisionGUID="de4ea200-0ab2-49d0-b9f4-d41d17bc26bf" CreationDate="2020-09-25T19:50:38.250" UserId="16421" Text="Custom in-desk panel" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51300" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14069" RevisionGUID="de4ea200-0ab2-49d0-b9f4-d41d17bc26bf" CreationDate="2020-09-25T19:50:38.250" UserId="16421" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="9d68954d-9b04-4cc1-95a7-363bc0efb735" CreationDate="2020-09-26T12:10:55.530" UserId="16420" Comment="added 260 characters in body" Text="I'm working on anonymous system that requires pre-registration. Pre-registration procedure involves fingerprint scanning to determine if a person has registered (to prevent more than one registration of one person). The thing is, owner of scanner is **not** trusted and can be interested in &quot;multiregistration&quot;. So, he can publish random data disguised as fingerprint data. I need a fingerprint scanner that sign output data with secret key. I tried to google but can't find something suitable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Output data can be fingerprint minutiae data or LSH of this data (preferably LSH).&#xD;&#xA;- Scanner must sign output data automatically (preferably RSA) using its own hardware resources.&#xD;&#xA;- Secret key must be embedded in scanner by manufacturer and can't be extractable.&#xD;&#xA;- Secret key can be exclusive for each scanner or be the same for one manufacturer or similar models.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there scanner like described?&#xD;&#xA;[![Scanner scheme][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/eXbve.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51317" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="14067" RevisionGUID="9a9ae0ee-6bb7-4da3-90b0-9fa27c76cc97" CreationDate="2020-09-26T16:23:27.753" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="51326" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="7fbcb43f-0805-4277-9160-f97bcb24783f" CreationDate="2020-09-26T17:06:40.663" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14074" RevisionGUID="8de0962e-5103-402a-81e3-95950c6aa78d" CreationDate="2020-09-26T23:40:54.567" UserId="1466" Text="Is there some &quot;light switch&quot; or anything else what can indicate its state to a router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In more detail:  &#xD;&#xA;I am searching for a simple Wi-Fi or Ethernet device, presence of which in the network can be quickly turned on and off in simple way – physically – to make a router recognize some external condition.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**For example:** When the device is switched on, it can reply to ping at static IP address 192.168.31.31 and the MikroTik router (using its scripting language) knows that in turn it should enable for example guest Wi-Fi. Once the device is switched off, ping of 192.168.31.31 no longer returns a reply so the router will disable the feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally it should be a passive device or one with very low power consumption, low maintenance (i.e. not an older mobile phone which needs to be maintained charged and has a lengthy bootup/shutdown). The device does not need to be portable. If plugging/unplugging an Ethernet cable somewhere solves the problem, it would be also acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14074" RevisionGUID="8de0962e-5103-402a-81e3-95950c6aa78d" CreationDate="2020-09-26T23:40:54.567" UserId="1466" Text="Indicate an external state to a router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14074" RevisionGUID="8de0962e-5103-402a-81e3-95950c6aa78d" CreationDate="2020-09-26T23:40:54.567" UserId="1466" Text="&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51340" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="bb45f602-8c65-4c37-b410-c381c17e5e85" CreationDate="2020-09-27T13:04:20.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51341" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="94364ca1-49d4-40b3-ae75-9011737cf7b9" CreationDate="2020-09-27T20:13:29.600" UserId="4495" Comment="tags edited" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51342" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13049" RevisionGUID="94364ca1-49d4-40b3-ae75-9011737cf7b9" CreationDate="2020-09-27T20:13:29.600" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1410 edit id of 1137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51346" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14078" RevisionGUID="617771a4-c207-4efc-886a-645a2619ee84" CreationDate="2020-09-27T20:37:30.603" UserId="1410" Text="I am a pure s/w guy, know nothing about hardware &amp; certainly couldn't handle a soldering iron. That's not likely to change, so hopefully there is an off-the-shelf solution for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have am a professional embedded coder, and have done a few projects with Raspberry Pi, ESP32, Onion Omega 2 &amp; BBC micro:bit, plus Android/ iOs apps, so the software won't be a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically, I want to make something with the functionality of an  Amazon Ring(tm) doorbell.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- it needs internet connection  &#xD;&#xA; - it should have a camera&#xD;&#xA; - and a display (now we have 2-way video)&#xD;&#xA; - a microphone   &#xD;&#xA; - and a speaker (now we have 2 way voice) &#xD;&#xA; - a button to push &amp; start communication &#xD;&#xA; - a bonus would be Passive Infra Red detection, in case I decide to make a burglar alarm (or cat watcher?)  &#xD;&#xA; - an IP67 housing would be nice, in case I actually want to use it on my door, but I can live without it, as this is just a hobby project &#xD;&#xA; - cheap/reasonably priced would be a bonus &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I do like [LilyGo's TTgo](http://www.lilygo.cn/) ESP32 dev boards. The [TTGO T-Camera Plus](https://makeradvisor.com/ttgo-t-camera-plus-esp32-review-pinout/) looks like a good candidate, ***BUT***,  while it has a microphone, I don't see a speaker. I also don't see a button, to 'ring' the doorbell, but, it has a Grove connector, which I love, and could use for a button (if you don't know Grove, see [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/category/Grove-c-1003.html) - it's plug &amp; play with several hundred sensors, servo motors &amp; more). Plus, it has an IP67 housing available.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will contact LiliGo, to ask about a speaker (and post the reply here). In the meantime, is there an off the shelf (dev) board that I can use do develop my own  Amazon Ring(tm) doorbell?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51347" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14078" RevisionGUID="617771a4-c207-4efc-886a-645a2619ee84" CreationDate="2020-09-27T20:37:30.603" UserId="1410" Text="(Dev) board to develop my own Amazon Ring(tm) -like doorbell" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51348" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14078" RevisionGUID="617771a4-c207-4efc-886a-645a2619ee84" CreationDate="2020-09-27T20:37:30.603" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51361" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14079" RevisionGUID="634dc306-b236-4947-9871-6784d84fdca8" CreationDate="2020-09-28T03:51:46.207" UserId="4476" Text="I decided on this [Dell 7400](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/latitude-14-7400-laptop/s091l740014us) laptop along with the [DA300 mobile adapter](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/accessories/apd/470-ACWN)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51367" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="526557de-2a21-4461-bd00-cf6a4aa84b0a" CreationDate="2020-09-28T15:02:50.277" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14082" RevisionGUID="2e2b74d8-3d48-444e-a612-1d76fce698d2" CreationDate="2020-09-28T18:00:05.763" UserId="6491" Text="I would go without hesitation for a Dell Latitude.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I loved the E6510 (15.6'') / E6410 (14.1''). They're robust, a dream for maintenance, and are easy to clean. Both support 8GB DDR3 (confirmed), maybe 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Previous E6500 (15.4'') / E6400 (14.1'') series are similar for maintenance.&#xD;&#xA;Those Core 2 Duo are still performing very well with Vista with only 4GB DDR2 (or even 2GB !), if coming with a dedicated graphic chip (Nvidia NVS 160M) and a professional grade SSD. (Word or Excel opening in less than 1 second on Windows Vista.)&#xD;&#xA;They are probably a little aging for Windows 10. I haven't attepmpted this.&#xD;&#xA;E6500 / E6400 had the issue of peeling speakers paint.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More recent series, with the E6520/E6420 and E6530/E6430 design, are also very good, although maintenance is a little less easy, as having more than one screw on the bottom to open them. The E6530/E6430 brought USB 3.0, altough E6510/E6410 series allows adding a USB 3.0 socket though the use of an ExpressCard and have an eSATA socket as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later series (e.g. E6540) are less reparable, at least for the display panel assembly which is monolithic. (The LCD panel is sealed.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the notebook stays at work or home most of the time, I would go with a 15''.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In your case, I would pick the E6510 (easier to clean) or the E6530 (more recent).&#xD;&#xA;Newbies focus too much on the RAM amount. I would'nt.&#xD;&#xA;A dedicated graphic chip (NVIDIA), the processor and an SSD instead of an HDD are way more important. &#xD;&#xA;For instance, I have some old E6500 with Core 2 Duo, NVIDIA 160M graphics and 4 GB RAM that still beat more recent E6520 with i5 but standard Intel GMA graphics. Both have a good SSD.&#xD;&#xA;The question is always where the bottleneck is. It is useless to have tons of RAM if the processor cannot follow or if the HDD is slow. Nowadays it is rare going out of RAM with standard desktop use. 4GB often suffice and 6GB is comfortable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14083" RevisionGUID="8e1575b3-9ea5-42bf-b1c7-7e5204e7a469" CreationDate="2020-09-28T18:47:40.050" UserId="6491" Text="I'm sorry having to ask such a question and hope not hurting anyone, but I'm looking for an alternative to Dell Latitude (E6530, E6520, E6510, E6500) or Dell Precision series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a big fan of those series, and most of my customers (men or women) really like them as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But one a reproach that I hear from time to time, and more specifically from women, is that the laptop of those series heavy and thick. Usually, I explain that sturdiness involves some weight, but I need an alternative however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't afford to sell junk even if the notebook looks pretty.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The sturdiness and the easiness of the maintenance (i.e. things like opening the computer chassis, extracting the mainboard) are important, especially as most of my customers buy a notebook for business use, and if something goes wrong they come back to me for some maintenance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm aware that sturdiness and thinness/low weight are in some way antinomic but I'm looking for suggestions of laptop series that would be relatively thin/leightweight but well designed, with sturdy hinges (and good fixing of the hinges) and an enclosure that is easy to open.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm also looking preferably for series with a large screen (e.g. ~ 16'') altough, again, I'm aware of the paradox of a large screen and lightness.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would you have some actual or past serie to recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51370" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14083" RevisionGUID="8e1575b3-9ea5-42bf-b1c7-7e5204e7a469" CreationDate="2020-09-28T18:47:40.050" UserId="6491" Text="Which business laptop product range would you recommend for the female clientele?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51371" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14083" RevisionGUID="8e1575b3-9ea5-42bf-b1c7-7e5204e7a469" CreationDate="2020-09-28T18:47:40.050" UserId="6491" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51372" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14084" RevisionGUID="db7df448-f2bc-4a00-95a2-706ab5d58dae" CreationDate="2020-09-28T22:19:23.423" UserId="16362" Text="The solution seems to be to buy earbuds that support a USB Bluetooth adapter, like the ones a [wireless gaming headset][1] would use (search for &quot;Lag-Free Wireless Audio&quot; to read about the included adapter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;According to [this reddit thread][2] (2020-07), the Jabra Elite 75t can be hooked up to the [Jabra Link 370][3], which increase range and:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Sound quality features such as HD voice, HiFi Audio and A2DP for crystal-clear sound for calls and music.&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I haven't tried this myself, and Jabra Link devices are not officially supported by Jabra to work with earbuds (only headsets and speakers), so YMMV. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.ca/SteelSeries-Lossless-Wireless-Headset-Headphone/dp/B07FZVXS8H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=NBZ451EYO8YL&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=arctis%2B7&amp;qid=1601331622&amp;sprefix=arctis%2Caps%2C263&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.reddit.com/r/Jabra/comments/hsnq3c/soi_purchased_a_jabra_link_380a_uc_for_my_elite/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.jabra.ca/accessories/jabra-link-370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51374" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14085" RevisionGUID="b968b54b-74e1-444a-97fb-b0f5703b2eaa" CreationDate="2020-09-30T09:54:04.283" UserId="9962" Text="Since remote working is the new norm and my company doesnt want that I use my own glorious computer but their okayish laptop, I would at least be able to use my own device. So each morning I unplug the hdmi cable of my screen, my mouse, my keyboard, my usb microphone and the jack of my headphone to plug them to the laptop. During the lunch break I move everything back to my tower to move them again after the break. Finally, at 6 o'clock, I unplug and plug all devices to my computer. I am sick of this (and I dont think it is very good for each device).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I bought a hdmi switch for the screen:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HDMI switch][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[source](https://www.amazon.fr/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Commutateur-Blue-Ray/dp/B072J4C42H/ref=sr_1_28?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=Commutateur+Splitter+Box+jack+hdmi+usb&amp;qid=1601458081&amp;sr=8-28)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and I plan to buy one for the jack:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Jack switch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[source](https://www.amazon.fr/Nobsound-mc102-Mini-passive-Selector-Commutateur/dp/B07C9LVDZC/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=jack+switch&amp;qid=1601457819&amp;sr=8-5)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and I plan to buy one for the usb (mic + keyboard):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![usb switch][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[source](https://www.amazon.fr/ABLEWE-Entr%C3%A9es-Sorties-Commutateur-Imprimante/dp/B07WMG6LB7/ref=sr_1_30?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=hub+switch+usb+jack&amp;qid=1601457723&amp;sr=8-30)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for 3-in-1 solution with all of them. Where can I buy a multi input splitter box for two computers? I cant find one online. Maybe I dont have the right name.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus if it can share the ethernet too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEU0n.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5d4O.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/oz8Dj.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51375" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14085" RevisionGUID="b968b54b-74e1-444a-97fb-b0f5703b2eaa" CreationDate="2020-09-30T09:54:04.283" UserId="9962" Text="Where can I buy a multi input splitter box for two computers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51376" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14085" RevisionGUID="b968b54b-74e1-444a-97fb-b0f5703b2eaa" CreationDate="2020-09-30T09:54:04.283" UserId="9962" Text="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14086" RevisionGUID="0b072528-a50f-42f8-bcb6-83b09b524332" CreationDate="2020-09-30T13:07:31.990" UserId="9962" Text="It is called a Kvm switch. Wikipedia has an [page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch) about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A KVM switch (with KVM being an abbreviation for &quot;keyboard, video and mouse&quot;) is a hardware device that allows a user to control multiple computers from one or more[1] sets of keyboards, video monitors, and mice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![kvm switch][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find those in any specialize shop or big enough retailer (e.g. amazon). It can be costly though. Some example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4-Port-HDMI-Switch-Built/dp/B003AVPUZQ?th=1&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-2-Port-DisplayPort-B004-DPUA2-K/dp/B014LQM8J4&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Switch-Support-Wireless-Keyboard-Require/dp/B087NMTBDF&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you Eegras from the [PCMR Discord](https://rebrand.ly/pcmrdiscord) for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/Kvm-switch-diagram.svg/410px-Kvm-switch-diagram.svg.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14086" RevisionGUID="750334dc-bd6a-4508-a3d7-b232de9b3a0c" CreationDate="2020-09-30T13:20:14.080" UserId="9962" Comment="added 356 characters in body" Text="It is called a Kvm switch. Wikipedia has an [page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch) about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A KVM switch (with KVM being an abbreviation for &quot;keyboard, video and mouse&quot;) is a hardware device that allows a user to control multiple computers from one or more[1] sets of keyboards, video monitors, and mice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![kvm switch][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find those in any specialize shop or big enough retailer (e.g. amazon). It can be costly though. Some example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4-Port-HDMI-Switch-Built/dp/B003AVPUZQ?th=1&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-2-Port-DisplayPort-B004-DPUA2-K/dp/B014LQM8J4&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Switch-Support-Wireless-Keyboard-Require/dp/B087NMTBDF&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Pasow-Switch-Keyboard-Mouse-Switcher/dp/B0814WKMXV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of kvm switch wont support audio. A solution would be to buy a jack to usb adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![jack to usb adpater picture][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[source](https://smile.amazon.com/TROND-External-Adapter-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B07L56C28R/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you Eegras from the [PCMR Discord](https://rebrand.ly/pcmrdiscord) for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/Kvm-switch-diagram.svg/410px-Kvm-switch-diagram.svg.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0ajg.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51379" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14086" RevisionGUID="1a41a17b-6808-464d-a3b3-8357004cb0ba" CreationDate="2020-09-30T13:40:49.970" UserId="9962" Comment="added 75 characters in body" Text="It is called a Kvm switch. Wikipedia has an [page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch) about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A KVM switch (with KVM being an abbreviation for &quot;keyboard, video and mouse&quot;) is a hardware device that allows a user to control multiple computers from one or more[1] sets of keyboards, video monitors, and mice. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![kvm switch][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find those in any specialize shop or big enough retailer (e.g. amazon).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![kvm in action][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be costly though. Some example:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4-Port-HDMI-Switch-Built/dp/B003AVPUZQ?th=1&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-2-Port-DisplayPort-B004-DPUA2-K/dp/B014LQM8J4&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Switch-Support-Wireless-Keyboard-Require/dp/B087NMTBDF&#xD;&#xA;* https://smile.amazon.com/Pasow-Switch-Keyboard-Mouse-Switcher/dp/B0814WKMXV&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of kvm switch wont support audio. A solution would be to buy a jack to usb adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![jack to usb adpater picture][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[source](https://smile.amazon.com/TROND-External-Adapter-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B07L56C28R/)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you Eegras from the [PCMR Discord](https://rebrand.ly/pcmrdiscord) for the help.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a3/Kvm-switch-diagram.svg/410px-Kvm-switch-diagram.svg.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNcwI.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0ajg.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51383" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10099" RevisionGUID="88a8f881-a408-4eed-8746-5ef253801160" CreationDate="2020-09-30T18:06:35.820" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51394" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14092" RevisionGUID="b064479c-d3d9-4a49-b687-54be01885b13" CreationDate="2020-10-01T09:13:31.897" UserId="12926" Text="Sensitivity has nothing to do with the amount of background noise picked up. The background is still the same relative level to your voice, no matter how sensitive. Polar pattern is the only differentiator, but I can't imagine any headset mic being other than a cardioid [their site gives no spec I can find]. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only way to reduce background noise [other than move away from it] is to use a noise-cancelling system, using bone conduction [Plantronics, Jawbone] or multiple mics [iPhone etc]." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51395" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14093" RevisionGUID="c40fb595-715a-4860-8f1d-188db77e8145" CreationDate="2020-10-01T09:36:32.770" UserId="12926" Text="Not enough for an answer, but too long for a comment…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new Apple displays are 6k, but nothing like the size you need.  &#xD;&#xA;The LG series 9's are good, but you will need to get the colorimeter on them &amp; spend some time knocking back their 'consumer-friendly stuff'. They have a horrible tendency to try to sharpen background bokeh on 'TV' video sources which is irritating. Computer sources they leave alone in the main.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Calman](https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough) do a calibrator for the &quot;TV&quot; part, but you can run X-Rite or DisplayCAL etc from the computer. But, having said that, they are TVs not monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old Pioneer Kuro took less tweaking to be a great TV than the LG. Being plasma it didn't suffer from strobing at all - refresh was pretty low compared to a modern screen but it was comfortable to use &amp; very accurate. It made for a decent monitor too, but I was always very wary of burn-in. OLEDs burn-in too, but over a much longer period. Haven't noticed anything on mine after just 6 months." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51396" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13948" RevisionGUID="d67a4eec-c831-444e-bde3-85bd461aa0e2" CreationDate="2020-10-01T09:39:40.867" UserId="12926" Comment="added neumann test" Text="Hard to tell from Røde's site whether the mic dimensions are with or without that little U-shaped mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If it's with, then you might have some luck buying an entire cheapo mic kit &amp; using the shock-mount from it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This [Neewer NW-700](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Broadcasting-Recording-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00XJF5DMI/ref=sr_1_7?crid=J5B1UM4PRAW1&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=studio+condenser+microphone&amp;qid=1598434171&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sprefix=studio+condenser%2Cmi%2C140&amp;sr=1-7) [&amp; a myriad variants under different names] can be bought for even less than the price of a separate shock-mount. The mic itself leaves a lot to be desired, unsurprisingly, but the shock mount might be worth a look.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][11]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It closes to a circular, slightly padded 50mm mic grip - with not a lot of leeway unless you want to try bending it a bit yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As good shock-mounts are balanced in tension against the weight of the mic, I doubt it's going to be perfect - but then again a shock mount for my Neumann U87 is £250 so you get what you pay for ;-)  &#xD;&#xA;The Neewer weighs 230g, but the shock-mount actually feels a bit firm for that weight, so the 500g or so of the Røde might be OK in it, if it fits. It doesn't have much give in it, but it's not as flimsy as you might imagine. You could always re-elastic it for a few pence from a haberdashery if you wanted to change the tension.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BTW, I have one of these myself, just because there are a million questions about them on Stack Exchange &amp; other forums, so I thought it was worth the 12 quid I paid for it to know how to answer questions on it. Mine calls itself a Floureon BM-800 but these things seem to be pretty much all the same, just with different badges &amp; slight external cosmetic differences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Late edit*  &#xD;&#xA;I recently squeezed my Neuman into the cheapo shock mount… ermm… not really successful. The mount was still rather stiff even with all that weight in it &amp; sang like a bird if you tapped the stand, actually managing somehow to transmit more ring than in Neumann's non-shock-mount mic holder.  &#xD;&#xA;I couldn't recommend it - even if it is £240 cheaper than the Neumann shock mount.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be worth experimenting with some looser elastic from a haberdashery store, but I didn't go that far.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yi7YIm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yi7YI.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51398" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14093" RevisionGUID="d59e33d8-ca01-4aa7-ace1-ffc5c99f2b5e" CreationDate="2020-10-01T14:54:47.850" UserId="12926" Comment="added 235 characters in body" Text="Not enough for an answer, but too long for a comment…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new Apple displays are 6k, but nothing like the size you need.  &#xD;&#xA;The LG series 9's are good, but you will need to get the colorimeter on them &amp; spend some time knocking back their 'consumer-friendly stuff'. They have a horrible tendency to try to sharpen background bokeh on 'TV' video sources which is irritating.  &#xD;&#xA;Computer sources they leave alone in the main. I've been using one 6 months or so as an HTPC from a Mac, &amp; video from the computer I've managed to get very watchable. Images from my standard 1080p cable box [Virgin, UK] less-so, because the TV keeps trying to 'fix' the picture, which seems to ruin depth of field &amp; make things look like LCD TVs [which I loathe, they make movies look like the 'making-of' documentary].  &#xD;&#xA;I do work in TV/film, so I'm fussy - even though I don't actually work on 'picture' I do get to see the monitors in the video village [production monitors on-set], so I know what *good* looks like ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Calman](https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough) do a calibrator for the &quot;TV&quot; part, but you can run X-Rite or DisplayCAL etc from the computer. But, having said that, they are TVs not monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old Pioneer Kuro took less tweaking to be a great TV than the LG. Being plasma it didn't suffer from strobing at all - refresh was pretty low compared to a modern screen but it was comfortable to use &amp; very accurate. It made for a decent monitor too, but I was always very wary of burn-in. OLEDs burn-in too, but over a much longer period. Haven't noticed anything on mine after just 6 months." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51399" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14093" RevisionGUID="1aa033ac-cf2c-429f-b954-9e5aebac05b4" CreationDate="2020-10-01T15:01:58.087" UserId="12926" Comment="added 84 characters in body" Text="Not enough for an answer, but too long for a comment…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new Apple displays are 6k, but nothing like the size you need.  &#xD;&#xA;The LG series 9's are good, but you will need to get the colorimeter on them &amp; spend some time knocking back their 'consumer-friendly stuff'. They have a horrible tendency to try to sharpen background bokeh on 'TV' video sources which is irritating.  &#xD;&#xA;Computer sources they leave alone in the main. I've been using one 6 months or so as an HTPC from a Mac, &amp; video from the computer I've managed to get very watchable. Images from my standard 1080p cable box [Virgin, UK] less-so, because the TV keeps trying to 'fix' the picture, which seems to ruin depth of field &amp; make things look like LCD TVs [which I loathe, they make movies look like the 'making-of' documentary].  &#xD;&#xA;I do work in TV/film, so I'm fussy - even though I don't actually work on 'picture' I do get to see the monitors in the video village [production monitors on-set], so I know what *good* looks like; but the production-standard Sony 31&quot; 4k is 30 grand, so I'm never going to own one ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Calman](https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough) do a calibrator for the &quot;TV&quot; part, but you can run X-Rite or DisplayCAL etc from the computer. But, having said that, they are TVs not monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old Pioneer Kuro took less tweaking to be a great TV than the LG. Being plasma it didn't suffer from strobing at all - refresh was pretty low compared to a modern screen but it was comfortable to use &amp; very accurate. It made for a decent monitor too, but I was always very wary of burn-in. OLEDs burn-in too, but over a much longer period. Haven't noticed anything on mine after just 6 months." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51400" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14093" RevisionGUID="1be7f7da-6d38-4641-8fb1-cafae2b8b07e" CreationDate="2020-10-01T15:08:04.310" UserId="12926" Comment="added 107 characters in body" Text="Not enough for an answer, but too long for a comment…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The new Apple displays are 6k, but nothing like the size you need.  &#xD;&#xA;The LG series 9's are good, but you will need to get the colorimeter on them &amp; spend some time knocking back their 'consumer-friendly stuff'. They have a horrible tendency to try to sharpen background bokeh on 'TV' video sources which is irritating.  &#xD;&#xA;Computer sources they leave alone in the main. I've been using one 6 months or so as an HTPC from a Mac, &amp; video from the computer I've managed to get very watchable. Images from my standard 1080p cable box [Virgin, UK] less-so, because the TV keeps trying to 'fix' the picture, which seems to ruin depth of field &amp; make things look like LCD TVs [which I loathe, they make movies look like the 'making-of' documentary].  &#xD;&#xA;I do work in TV/film, so I'm fussy - even though I don't actually work on 'picture' I do get to see the monitors in the video village [production monitors on-set], so I know what *good* looks like; but the production-standard Sony 31&quot; 4k is 30 grand, so I'm never going to own one ;)  &#xD;&#xA;I've not yet worked on any production shooting 8k, so I don't even have anecdotal experience with that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Calman](https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough) do a calibrator for the &quot;TV&quot; part, but you can run X-Rite or DisplayCAL etc from the computer. But, having said that, they are TVs not monitors. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My old Pioneer Kuro took less tweaking to be a great TV than the LG. Being plasma it didn't suffer from strobing at all - refresh was pretty low compared to a modern screen but it was comfortable to use &amp; very accurate. It made for a decent monitor too, but I was always very wary of burn-in. OLEDs burn-in too, but over a much longer period. Haven't noticed anything on mine after just 6 months." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51404" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="8d1a7750-3bae-42fb-b44f-9f549b7e0ad7" CreationDate="2020-10-01T16:56:24.847" UserId="14005" Comment="100" />
  <row Id="51447" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14108" RevisionGUID="e923849c-8b82-41e2-becd-9fa1e18134e9" CreationDate="2020-10-06T08:53:32.537" UserId="14465" Text="I have and old 29&quot; 21:9 monitor that needs replacement. I love the the form factor. It's used primarily for coding, and sometimes for gaming. So the most important part is resolution, I was thinking of 5k2k. Good refresh rate would be nice, but I guess the resolution is more important for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After searching for a while it seems like there is not that much of a choice in this category and most of them are not in stock in my area:&#xD;&#xA; * LG UltraWide 34WK95U-W&#xD;&#xA; * MSI Prestige PS341WU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the requirements are:&#xD;&#xA; * good resolution (5k2k?)&#xD;&#xA; * &amp;gt; 29&quot;&#xD;&#xA; * price ~1k$&#xD;&#xA; * good refresh rate would be nice but not required&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can you please recommend some other good options I should consider?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51448" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14108" RevisionGUID="e923849c-8b82-41e2-becd-9fa1e18134e9" CreationDate="2020-10-06T08:53:32.537" UserId="14465" Text="21:9 5k2k monitor recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51449" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14108" RevisionGUID="e923849c-8b82-41e2-becd-9fa1e18134e9" CreationDate="2020-10-06T08:53:32.537" UserId="14465" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51450" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="bdfbf8b0-7a77-498a-b56f-819559344ef3" CreationDate="2020-10-06T09:04:20.430" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14111" RevisionGUID="cff81005-dc84-47ac-9b6b-199119ab8304" CreationDate="2020-10-07T11:12:19.407" UserId="16457" Text="My old Texas TI-83 is dying on me after some 20 years of extensive use. It served me well, but it's quite crude when it comes to programming-related arithmetic. Specifically binary/dec/hex conversions, as well as bit-wise arithmetic. For such, I've relied on custom programs made by myself, that tend to get cumbersome interfaces to the point where I don't use them, but fire up calc.exe on the computer instead.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I'm looking for a similar graphing calculator similar to the Texas TI-xx product family, but one more suitable for programmers, if such a beast exists. That is, easily accessible ways to use the various features of the old calc.exe in Windows, when set to &quot;programmer mode&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Easy way to convert between hex, dec and bin bases, with a few button presses rather by than executing a custom program.&#xD;&#xA;- Support for integers with different word sizes: byte, word, double word etc (8, 16, 32 bit).&#xD;&#xA;- Support for bit shift, OR, AND, NOT and similar binary arithmetic.&#xD;&#xA;- The ability to type out the whole calculation/equation on the display as done on Texas calculators. Not &quot;one operand at a time&quot; as in more classic/simplistic calculators.&#xD;&#xA;- Trigonometry supported and easily accessible (like on the Texas ones). Radians + degrees.&#xD;&#xA;- Must support engineering notation.&#xD;&#xA;- Some manner of graphic display (LCD, TFT etc). Resolution doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;- Actual buttons. (If I liked typing on touch screens, I'd use the app on my phone instead.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51460" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14111" RevisionGUID="cff81005-dc84-47ac-9b6b-199119ab8304" CreationDate="2020-10-07T11:12:19.407" UserId="16457" Text="Graphing calculator suitable for programmers?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51461" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14111" RevisionGUID="cff81005-dc84-47ac-9b6b-199119ab8304" CreationDate="2020-10-07T11:12:19.407" UserId="16457" Text="&lt;calculators&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14116" RevisionGUID="10cf4392-63af-4a86-9d58-339ea0058935" CreationDate="2020-10-08T08:42:25.220" UserId="1873" Text="While this is hardware recommendations, check out [SpeedCrunch][1] before you spend money.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://speedcrunch.org/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14120" RevisionGUID="1f0c36da-143d-4b0f-aa8b-48bba73b2c24" CreationDate="2020-10-08T14:14:35.973" UserId="7044" Text="Also to add to the other answer, KVM switches often don't play nice with anything other than USB keyboards and mice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will most likely not be able to use it with USB storage drives. Though if you just get two USB hubs and set them near each other, it's not too difficult to use one or the other for external storage." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51511" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14121" RevisionGUID="0e1aa771-f05e-4531-8a49-35cf7fe4ba6f" CreationDate="2020-10-08T14:27:38.087" UserId="7044" Text="If what you're specifically trying to do is turn wifi on and off remotely, that can be done with a small 5-port managed network switch and wifi access point, and sending port configuration commands to it via SSH.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Router -&gt; Managed switch -&gt; Wifi access point&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You would write a script that then remotely configure the port to enable or disable it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Turn off:&#xD;&#xA;- connect to managed switch&#xD;&#xA;- login user / password&#xD;&#xA;- configure port 7&#xD;&#xA;- disable&#xD;&#xA;- logout&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the router accepts commands via SSH, then you can probably do the same to remotely turn the guest wifi on and off, and without having to buy anything extra.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Turn off via SSH:&#xD;&#xA;- connect to router&#xD;&#xA;- login user / password&#xD;&#xA;- configure guest wifi&#xD;&#xA;- disable&#xD;&#xA;- logout&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51512" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5602" RevisionGUID="22b3eb0f-a1fd-4622-94f5-181211e89768" CreationDate="2020-10-08T15:04:20.497" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14124" RevisionGUID="c1e6d97c-0234-4164-91aa-3797c1ae21e0" CreationDate="2020-10-09T20:30:02.713" UserId="16473" Text="It shouldn't matter if it's marketed for office use. If it has the specs you need, which it sounds like it does, it should work fine for your use case. Double check that it has any ports that are essential for you before purchasing. &#xA;&#xA;You may want to consider a fanless design which would be silent, as you mentioned noise is an issue. The performance may be worse than with fans but if well designed with a large heatsink they should still perform very well. Here are some examples:&#xA;[Fanless NUCs][1] - these are pricey, but at least intel is a known entity. &#xA;[A no-name fanless mini pc][2] - not sure what to expect from this brand. &#xA;&#xA;One last thing: you mention this is to be a linux server. It is possible (but unlikely, I think) that you could have difficulty installing your OS of choice based on a given devices motherboard firmware. I don't know a reliable method of determining this besides looking for examples of others installing the OS on the same system, or contacting the manufacturer. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  [1]: https://simplynuc.com/nuc-products/#fanless&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Kingdel-Desktop-Computer-i7-10510U-4096x2304/dp/B087J97RTT/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=fanless%20mini%20pc&amp;qid=1602275031&amp;sr=8-4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51527" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14124" RevisionGUID="cc8988fb-bd3a-4b2c-8159-63119788b3f2" CreationDate="2020-10-09T23:10:39.323" UserId="16473" Comment="Shortened hyperlink" Text="It shouldn't matter if it's marketed for office use. If it has the specs you need, which it sounds like it does, it should work fine for your use case. Double check that it has any ports that are essential for you before purchasing. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You may want to consider a fanless design which would be silent, as you mentioned noise is an issue. The performance may be worse than with fans but if well designed with a large heatsink they should still perform very well. Here are some examples:&#xD;&#xA;[Fanless NUCs][1] - these are pricey, but at least intel is a known entity. &#xD;&#xA;[A no-name fanless mini pc][2] - not sure what to expect from this brand. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One last thing: you mention this is to be a linux server. It is possible (but unlikely, I think) that you could have difficulty installing your OS of choice based on a given devices motherboard firmware. I don't know a reliable method of determining this besides looking for examples of others installing the OS on the same system, or contacting the manufacturer. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://simplynuc.com/nuc-products/#fanless&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Kingdel-Desktop-Computer-i7-10510U-4096x2304/dp/B087J97RTT/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14125" RevisionGUID="130fc004-0e4e-4de9-9e7c-945e7fd0267c" CreationDate="2020-10-10T01:24:46.380" UserId="6089" Text="Have you examined the HP50G graphing calculator? I'm a fan of RPN (reverse programming notation) and I'm aware it's not for everyone, but I've found it rather useful for simple to complex tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One can find a rather comprehensive set of manuals on the [HP site][1]. Over the three listed, there's nearly 1800 pages, far more than I could peruse this evening. A few features appeared while I was &quot;leafing through the pages.&quot; One of them is that you can enter not only complete equations, but entire programs involving those equations, along with 2300 features from libraries for the calculator. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon (image credit) lists this jewel for US$500, some serious cash for a pocket sized super computer. I'd be surprised if it would not do as you require, but not surprised if its priced out of your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HP50G graphing calculator][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-50g-graphing-calculator/3235173/manuals&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbkJK.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51530" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14126" RevisionGUID="a7db11d4-e850-4442-8175-ce05ca6f6651" CreationDate="2020-10-10T01:33:19.607" UserId="12868" Text="There is a good chance that with Thunderbolt 4 I will finally get the hardware I want. Since all Thunderbolt 3 devices could also pass USB C DisplayPort alternate mode. And assuming Thunderbolt 4 keeps this feature and now adds hubs, I have a solution where I can split off a USB-C DisplayPort signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is highly speculative but it makes sense. Price could be around $149.00 according to OWC.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/owc-thunderbolt-hub&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://thunderbolttechnology.net/sites/default/files/intel-thunderbolt4-announcement-press-deck.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51540" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14129" RevisionGUID="15063223-f5a1-4f7e-aa1e-a62d13f5b5f0" CreationDate="2020-10-10T22:15:48.073" UserId="15900" Text="I have lots of video files stored on my network-attached drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the computers in my network can access this drive and the videos on it. Currently this is achieved through Samba (each folder on the drive is made available to the network as an SMB share).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can I get my TV to access and play these videos?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am hoping there exists some device which I can plug in to an ethernet socket, and via an HDMI cable to my TV, which will let me browse the network share and then just play a video, directly from the TV. Ideally it will be able to play most video files with all kinds of different codecs. (But for the most part they are H264 encoded files.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51541" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14129" RevisionGUID="15063223-f5a1-4f7e-aa1e-a62d13f5b5f0" CreationDate="2020-10-10T22:15:48.073" UserId="15900" Text="Device to stream video from NAS (SMB network share) to TV?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51542" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14129" RevisionGUID="15063223-f5a1-4f7e-aa1e-a62d13f5b5f0" CreationDate="2020-10-10T22:15:48.073" UserId="15900" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;television&gt;&lt;set-top-box&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51543" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8983" RevisionGUID="642efe9c-8639-47e3-8521-6efb274d164c" CreationDate="2020-10-10T23:03:10.413" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51547" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14130" RevisionGUID="0bfc362f-f954-492e-9f5e-fcb21cf95fad" CreationDate="2020-10-11T12:02:09.030" UserId="16481" Text="I found this model of monitor, I think it is to your liking.&#xD;&#xA;Model: AOC Agon AG352UCG6 Black Edition&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Screen size: 35-inch &lt;br&gt;Frame-Rate: 120Hz&lt;br&gt; Aspect ratio: 21: 9 &lt;br&gt; Resolution: 3,440 x 1,440 &lt;br&gt; Brightness: 300 cd / m2 &lt;br&gt; Refresh rate: 120Hz &lt;br&gt; Response time: 4ms &lt;br &gt; Viewing angle: 178/178 &lt;br&gt; Contrast ratio: 2,500: 1: &lt;br&gt; Color support: sRGB 100%**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Amazon Price $599.99][1](it is not an affiliate link)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LCX18MW" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14132" RevisionGUID="7f6729f1-37b4-49a7-ba92-9a13e3db170a" CreationDate="2020-10-11T18:47:47.550" UserId="15623" Text="I have a UPS that is producing modified sine wave. My issue is that my UPS is powering everything except my modem and I asked it in super-user: [Here][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The conclusion in a way was that this modified sine wave is problematic and I need pure sine wave.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can I get a recommendation on a &quot;converter(preferably not too costly) that converts the modified sine wave output to pure sine wave output&quot;. I can then plug my modem to this converter. I am not opting for a UPS with pure sine wave output because I have a working UPS and I am optimistic that I can make it work somehow. Let me know if the cost of the converter surpasses that of a UPS with pure sine wave output. If so then there is no point in recommending one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My UPS model(input specs- 230VAC, 50/60 Hz, 4.5A and output specs- 230VAC, 50/60 Hz, 2.9A):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![UPS Specs][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;[![UPS Battery Specs][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://superuser.com/questions/1592500/why-is-my-ups-not-providing-power-to-my-modem&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmmNo.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvSPr.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51552" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14132" RevisionGUID="7f6729f1-37b4-49a7-ba92-9a13e3db170a" CreationDate="2020-10-11T18:47:47.550" UserId="15623" Text="Recommendation for UPS output sine wave converter(modified to pure)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51553" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14132" RevisionGUID="7f6729f1-37b4-49a7-ba92-9a13e3db170a" CreationDate="2020-10-11T18:47:47.550" UserId="15623" Text="&lt;ups&gt;&lt;power-converter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51562" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7004" RevisionGUID="f7602603-940f-4676-819b-5d3824c9f9c4" CreationDate="2020-10-11T23:01:00.077" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51568" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14138" RevisionGUID="21a9ce9b-9642-40bd-8513-96d1a029177b" CreationDate="2020-10-12T13:10:49.163" UserId="5176" Text="I have Lenovo Yoga Book with Android. I love it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a touch keyboard, which can turn into a Wacom-like drawing pad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Although it gets old and I would like to have something faster, with latest Android, more RAM, larger dispaly. I don't see many devices which would follow this concept.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any new devide similar to Yoga Book? Preferably Lenovo, but anything goes if it matches the quality of Yoga Book." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51569" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14138" RevisionGUID="21a9ce9b-9642-40bd-8513-96d1a029177b" CreationDate="2020-10-12T13:10:49.163" UserId="5176" Text="Something like Lenovo Yoga Book with Android?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51570" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14138" RevisionGUID="21a9ce9b-9642-40bd-8513-96d1a029177b" CreationDate="2020-10-12T13:10:49.163" UserId="5176" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="4327e775-0aed-491a-936d-a0beceb48a94" CreationDate="2020-10-12T14:01:49.607" UserId="16487" Text="I'm a total rookie when it comes to hardware tech news, so I'm relying on userbenchmark.com to choose stuffs. Here are the core modules of the rig I'm building:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: core i3 9100F&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX 1650S (Super)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 C16 2x8GB&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Pilot NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 1st question: are they on the same level with each other? I'd like to list more things, but unfortunately userbenchmark doesn't have sections for mobo, screen nor speaker/headphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see from the list, I aim for pieces that provide the biggest bang for the buck. I don't know whether those CPU &amp; GPU... are mid-end or low-end, but I want my remaining constituents to be within the same price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, here comes the big question: **what would you recommend for the mainboard, a monitor and speakers that go with this rig?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I intend to use the PC to make videos using Adobe Premiere (the latest version if possible), otherwise most of the time I'll just surf and do easy tasks. If my channel catches on then I may consider streaming, possibly games, but that's pretty far fetched (the gaming part ;) ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have plans to upgrade any parts of the machine once it's been built, so the chance of switching anything in or out is less than 50%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51575" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="4327e775-0aed-491a-936d-a0beceb48a94" CreationDate="2020-10-12T14:01:49.607" UserId="16487" Text="A motherboard to fit with these components" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51576" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="4327e775-0aed-491a-936d-a0beceb48a94" CreationDate="2020-10-12T14:01:49.607" UserId="16487" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51578" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="2143c7db-d768-4556-ae51-7448538d257c" CreationDate="2020-10-12T14:14:00.960" UserId="16487" Comment="add a keyboard &amp; mouse question" Text="I'm a total rookie when it comes to hardware tech news, so I'm relying on userbenchmark.com to choose stuffs. Here are the core modules of the rig I'm building:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: core i3 9100F&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX 1650S (Super)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 C16 2x8GB&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Pilot NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My 1st question: are they on the same level with each other? I'd like to list more things, but unfortunately userbenchmark doesn't have sections for mobo, screen nor speaker/headphone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see from the list, I aim for pieces that provide the biggest bang for the buck. I don't know whether those CPU &amp; GPU... are mid-end or low-end, but I want my remaining constituents to be within the same price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, here comes the big question: **what would you recommend for the mainboard, a monitor and speakers that go with this rig?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I intend to use the PC to make videos using Adobe Premiere (the latest version if possible), otherwise most of the time I'll just surf and do easy tasks. If my channel catches on then I may consider streaming, possibly games, but that's pretty far fetched (the gaming part ;) ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have plans to upgrade any parts of the machine once it's been built, so the chance of switching anything in or out is less than 50%.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P/S. I have an extra question, if you don't mind. Is there any keyboard out there that combines these 2 features: soft &amp; low key like in a laptop, and 'broken' in the middle so the 2 halves face the directions of the hands properly? Also, what is the technical name of the mouse that appears at 5:14 in this [video][1]?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjLVK9mfME" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51579" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14125" RevisionGUID="e3141b96-cc12-42b3-85a2-307f9d655770" CreationDate="2020-10-12T15:46:53.070" UserId="6089" Comment="added 1971 characters in body" Text="Have you examined the HP50G graphing calculator? I'm a fan of RPN (reverse programming notation) and I'm aware it's not for everyone, but I've found it rather useful for simple to complex tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One can find a rather comprehensive set of manuals on the [HP site][1]. Over the three listed, there's nearly 1800 pages, far more than I could peruse this evening. A few features appeared while I was &quot;leafing through the pages.&quot; One of them is that you can enter not only complete equations, but entire programs involving those equations, along with 2300 features from libraries for the calculator. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Amazon (image credit) lists this jewel for US$500, some serious cash for a pocket sized super computer. I'd be surprised if it would not do as you require, but not surprised if its priced out of your budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![HP50G graphing calculator][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additional research has allowed me to discover that there is a Windows-based emulator for the HP50G. This means you can evaluate on a PC before you spring the big bucks for the handheld device.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A [video of a few minutes][3] shows the process to install the emulator from an [archive site][4].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Summary:&#xD;&#xA;Scroll down to [HP 50gs Emulator Package][5]. This link is the download link. The archive site link is for all of them.&#xD;&#xA;Extract the zip file to a convenient location.&#xD;&#xA;open the ROM folder, rename ROM_215.50G to ROM.50G&#xD;&#xA;Execute Emu48.exe&#xD;&#xA;Leave script window option on or disable, as per preference&#xD;&#xA;Click No for &quot;Try to recover memory&quot;&#xD;&#xA;To remove this message, click File, Save As, save &quot;settings&quot; to convenient folder. The video placed it on the desktop, I placed it in the executable folder with no problems.&#xD;&#xA;The video then covers some setting changes (Mode Button) that fit your requirements!&#xD;&#xA;Algebraic vs RPN - my install defaulted to Algebraic, I changed it to RPN by pressing F2, then using the arrow keys and enter to effect the change. My mouse would not let me make the change.&#xD;&#xA;Number format can be Engineering, with adjustment of number of digits.&#xD;&#xA;F6 takes you to flags:&#xD;&#xA;Result of Infinite (divide by zero) error or possibly some arbitrary value&#xD;&#xA;Font sizes for stack and display&#xD;&#xA;The creator of the video changed his display for list and vector to vertical.&#xD;&#xA;There are a few other minor changes covered in the video, left as an exercise to the reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm sure the manual will be of value for this mini-super-micro-computer-in-your-hand!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A curious aspect of this emulator is that even though you'd think it would be turned on when opened, it's not. You have to hit the ON key. Once ON, closing and re-opening returns you to the previous screen, just as with my HP11c.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-50g-graphing-calculator/3235173/manuals&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbkJK.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HII6X1YRKEc&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.hpcalc.org/hp49/pc/emulators/&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://www.hpcalc.org/hp49/pc/emulators/hp50gsemu48.zip" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51580" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14141" RevisionGUID="ae8850ea-61ac-4c9a-8b72-271f53e8de85" CreationDate="2020-10-12T18:39:57.680" UserId="465" Text="Given that you're already familiar with the TI-83, I suggest considering the **TI-89 Titanium**. In language and UI design it's a descendant, but it is “modernized” in a lot of ways and has many additional features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Easy way to convert between hex, dec and bin bases, with a few button presses rather by than executing a custom program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can enter numbers like `0hAA` and `0b1011`, and print them with the `▸Hex`, `▸Bin`, and `▸Dec` operators, or set the default output format to any of the three bases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for integers with different word sizes: byte, word, double word etc (8, 16, 32 bit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only 32-bit is available; you'd have to do bit masking yourself to simulate smaller sizes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for bit shift, OR, AND, NOT and similar binary arithmetic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`shift(value, count)` provides a 32-bit sign-extending shift. `or`, `and`, and `not` act bitwise on integers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ability to type out the whole calculation/equation on the display as done on Texas calculators. Not &quot;one operand at a time&quot; as in more classic/simplistic calculators.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yep, it's a TI! Also, if I remember correctly, the TI-83 text entry defaults to overwrite mode — the TI-89 defaults to insert mode like modern text editors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Trigonometry supported and easily accessible (like on the Texas ones). Radians + degrees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. Trig functions are on the main keyboard, radians and degrees are available as a mode setting, and you can also enter and read vectors in polar or rectangular form.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must support engineering notation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. The TI-89 has a dedicated key for entering the exponent &quot;E&quot; (which is a distinct character from text/variable-name &quot;E&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Some manner of graphic display (LCD, TFT etc). Resolution doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;160 × 100 LCD, no backlight. You can plot functions and also draw arbitrary graphics from programs. The normal input/output view fits 5½ lines of text (at minimum height; divisions and matrices and such are taller), and you can scroll up easily to review and recall previous results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Actual buttons. (If I liked typing on touch screens, I'd use the app on my phone instead.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features/differences you didn't ask for but are noteworthy compared to the TI-83:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You can have arbitrary, multi-character variable names.&#xD;&#xA;* You can perform symbolic operations, including solving, factoring, expansion, differentiation, and integration.&#xD;&#xA;* Instead of built-in function names being special symbols, you can just type their name on the keyboard. (There's still a list you can review and pick from, and a help function showing the expected parameter list.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tip: First thing to do is to go into the settings and turn off &quot;Apps Desktop&quot;, so you always start at the &quot;Home&quot; regular calculator input mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 Titanium is still in current production and can also be found cheaply on the used market (presumably from ex-students).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hear that the TI-92 / Voyage 200 has the same operating system but adds a QWERTY keyboard, which may be of interest for quickly typing operator names. However, there is no model of this line in current production, and I am not familiar with the functionality of the newer TI-Nspire line." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51597" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14141" RevisionGUID="cb93bed3-e235-4806-bb50-0c600cb7e01f" CreationDate="2020-10-13T15:09:38.650" UserId="465" Comment="clarify &quot;engineering&quot; options" Text="Given that you're already familiar with the TI-83, I suggest considering the **TI-89 Titanium**. In language and UI design it's a descendant, but it is “modernized” in a lot of ways and has many additional features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Easy way to convert between hex, dec and bin bases, with a few button presses rather by than executing a custom program.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can enter numbers like `0hAA` and `0b1011`, and print them with the `▸Hex`, `▸Bin`, and `▸Dec` operators, or set the default output format to any of the three bases. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for integers with different word sizes: byte, word, double word etc (8, 16, 32 bit).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Only 32-bit is available; you'd have to do bit masking yourself to simulate smaller sizes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for bit shift, OR, AND, NOT and similar binary arithmetic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;`shift(value, count)` provides a 32-bit sign-extending shift. `or`, `and`, and `not` act bitwise on integers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The ability to type out the whole calculation/equation on the display as done on Texas calculators. Not &quot;one operand at a time&quot; as in more classic/simplistic calculators.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yep, it's a TI! Also, if I remember correctly, the TI-83 text entry defaults to overwrite mode — the TI-89 defaults to insert mode like modern text editors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Trigonometry supported and easily accessible (like on the Texas ones). Radians + degrees.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. Trig functions are on the main keyboard, radians and degrees are available as a mode setting, and you can also enter and read vectors in polar or rectangular form.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Must support engineering notation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Yes. The TI-89 has a dedicated key for entering the exponent &quot;E&quot; (which is a distinct character from text/variable-name &quot;E&quot;. There is also an &quot;engineering&quot; output option to always use exponents that are multiples of 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Some manner of graphic display (LCD, TFT etc). Resolution doesn't matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;160 × 100 LCD, no backlight. You can plot functions and also draw arbitrary graphics from programs. The normal input/output view fits 5½ lines of text (at minimum height; divisions and matrices and such are taller), and you can scroll up easily to review and recall previous results.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Actual buttons. (If I liked typing on touch screens, I'd use the app on my phone instead.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Check!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Features/differences you didn't ask for but are noteworthy compared to the TI-83:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* You can have arbitrary, multi-character variable names.&#xD;&#xA;* You can perform symbolic operations, including solving, factoring, expansion, differentiation, and integration.&#xD;&#xA;* Instead of built-in function names being special symbols, you can just type their name on the keyboard. (There's still a list you can review and pick from, and a help function showing the expected parameter list.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tip: First thing to do is to go into the settings and turn off &quot;Apps Desktop&quot;, so you always start at the &quot;Home&quot; regular calculator input mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The TI-89 Titanium is still in current production and can also be found cheaply on the used market (presumably from ex-students).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hear that the TI-92 / Voyage 200 has the same operating system but adds a QWERTY keyboard, which may be of interest for quickly typing operator names. However, there is no model of this line in current production, and I am not familiar with the functionality of the newer TI-Nspire line." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51601" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="8265468e-9ece-4167-bbd4-cb0cf28c7e13" CreationDate="2020-10-14T02:01:55.297" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51611" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="20d17078-61f5-4eb1-ba4a-7c8a8a66bf34" CreationDate="2020-10-14T14:24:47.793" UserId="16487" Comment="102" />
  <row Id="51612" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="c652d09a-dcb5-4f8e-aae3-5bcb44c6d2bc" CreationDate="2020-10-14T21:36:20.120" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 581 characters in body" Text="I'm a total rookie when it comes to hardware tech news, so I'm relying on userbenchmark.com to choose stuffs. Here are the core modules of the rig I'm building:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - CPU: core i3 9100F&#xD;&#xA; - GPU: GTX 1650S (Super)&#xD;&#xA; - RAM: Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 C16 2x8GB&#xD;&#xA; - SSD: Pilot NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As you can see from the list, I aim for pieces that provide the biggest bang for the buck. I don't know whether those CPU &amp; GPU... are mid-end or low-end, but I want my remaining constituents to be within the same price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Therefore, here comes the big question: **what would you recommend for the mainboard, a monitor and speakers that go with this rig?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I intend to use the PC to make videos using Adobe Premiere (the latest version if possible), otherwise most of the time I'll just surf and do easy tasks. If my channel catches on then I may consider streaming, possibly games, but that's pretty far fetched (the gaming part ;) ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have plans to upgrade any parts of the machine once it's been built, so the chance of switching anything in or out is less than 50%." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51635" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14150" RevisionGUID="90f2f202-a3c0-4ead-9944-c8f53a1574c8" CreationDate="2020-10-15T05:19:22.403" UserId="13572" Text="I've had very good luck (VRM and BIOS-wise) with ASUS mainboards.&#xD;&#xA;Since you'll need NVMe support but your CPU isn't very demanding in terms of power, I'd probably go with the [Asus Prime B360M-A][1] which should support all the features you need. It is a bit light on USB ports, so if that's a concern for you, something like the [Asus Prime B360-Plus][2] offers more connectivity, but in a larger form factor. If form factor is an issue in your case, please specify.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You state you mostly want to use the machine for productivity and mildly color-demanding work. Together with your GPU and light gaming needs, you'll probably not need a 120 or 144 Hz display. Monitor size is, again, hugely dependent on your preference. Personally, I wouldn't want to go below 27&quot; and WQHD. Used monitors provide a pretty large saving potential there. If you do want a *new* monitor, the [Philips 275E1S][3] should fit those (mine) requirements quite nicely with decent reviews.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't really comment on speakers - I use cheap dollar-store ones if I don't use my headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frame challenge:&#xD;&#xA;If you're mostly after productivity anyways, AMD Ryzen based systems offer a lot of performance for very decent pricing and upgrade-ability these days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.de/B360M-Mainboard-Sockel-Speicher-Optane/dp/B07BR8676R/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.de/B360-Plus-Mainboard-Sockel-Speicher-duales/dp/B07BRKN7L6/&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.de/Philips-275E1S-Reaktionszeit-FreeSync-DisplayPort/dp/B07TV2J72X/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51642" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14152" RevisionGUID="80d88f7d-2ad2-4797-99f4-12befdb647cc" CreationDate="2020-10-16T01:50:17.217" UserId="12868" Text="Looks like there is now a docking station with USB-C data, USB-C displayport out and USB-A hub. Available with Thunderbolt 3 or regular USB-C host connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-docking-station-wd19-180w/apd/210-ariq/pc-accessories&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just a bit pricey at USD ~250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51643" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14153" RevisionGUID="1c849337-4ea2-4a35-a4d2-901d3129def1" CreationDate="2020-10-16T21:35:29.603" UserId="16513" Text="I'm looking for a conference microphone, similar to something out of the Jabra Speak series. My requirements are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Must be combined speaker and microhpone.&#xD;&#xA; * Must have omnidirectional microphone intended to pick up audio from multiple persons.&#xD;&#xA; * Must have both Bluetooth and USB connection.&#xD;&#xA; * Must be possible to daisy chain, i.e. connect two of them at different ends of a table in order to pick up audio from larger groups. (Daisy chaining more than two is a bonus, but not a requirement.)&#xD;&#xA; * A price of 300$ is acceptable, anything below 200$ is good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The [Jabra Speak 710](https://www.jabra.com/business/speakerphones/jabra-speak-series/jabra-speak-710##7710-309) would be an example that fits the bill but has a hefty price at 314$. The [Jabra Speak 510](https://www.jabra.com/business/speakerphones/jabra-speak-series/jabra-speak-710##7710-309) would be an example that does not work, since it can't be daisy chained." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51644" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14153" RevisionGUID="1c849337-4ea2-4a35-a4d2-901d3129def1" CreationDate="2020-10-16T21:35:29.603" UserId="16513" Text="Conference microphone that can be daisy chained?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51645" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14153" RevisionGUID="1c849337-4ea2-4a35-a4d2-901d3129def1" CreationDate="2020-10-16T21:35:29.603" UserId="16513" Text="&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14155" RevisionGUID="00a8b1f1-05f3-4250-a813-d9bfa49cd82e" CreationDate="2020-10-17T02:38:47.313" UserId="1921" Text="Well the device is up to you, but something like this.&#xD;&#xA;Although your diagram implies USB interconnects, I don't think this is possible and it certainly won't be as easy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could use a full fledged computer, but maybe you could get away with a Raspberry Pi 4.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Plug USB sound card into computer/Pi4 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Setup streaming over the network. &#xD;&#xA;FYI:  The Pi4 has real gigabit ethernet should be plenty fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You could setup different channels on different TCP/IP ports and each computer just connects to the correct port and your done.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In windows you could try OBS studio, but I have never done this before my self so I don't have exact answers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know its done in linux all the time with PulseAudio and other standard linux components, but again I have never done this so I can't give you exact directions." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51651" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13203" RevisionGUID="fc858628-9f22-40c1-85a6-0e5fbaed4ad6" CreationDate="2020-10-17T03:06:05.643" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14156" RevisionGUID="c9caa379-cbbc-4540-a331-4a2436d88db6" CreationDate="2020-10-17T04:25:39.993" UserId="10878" Text="I almost have the same build as you. Same processor, type of SSD (M.2 500gb but samsung brand), and 16gb (8x2) ram. My PSU is Seasonic: S12II (620 watts, bronze rated). Motherboard is Gigabyte B360M HD3 which is perfect for my needs and not much extra features that I don't need. It has a slot for a M.2 SSD which I also have. The only thing that is a little different for you is the GPU. I have a RX 570 but yours is a much newer budget release late last year. Since you wont be using for gaming, you probably wont need a refresh rate above 60hz as stated here, but get an IPS panel. Good for color&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also one thing to note is the ram speed of the rams you are buying. If i'm not mistaken it is 3200 MHz? If yes, then there is a good chance you will not be able to utilize the speeds fully" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51653" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14156" RevisionGUID="f75d539a-9911-4516-b2cc-9709b5ab3be8" CreationDate="2020-10-17T04:38:15.713" UserId="10878" Comment="added 716 characters in body" Text="I almost have the same build as you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;CPU: core i3 9100F&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;GPU: Gigabyte RX 570 4GB&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ram: 16gb (2 sticks of 8gb DDR4 2666 Kingston HyperX Fury Black)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;SSD: 500gb Samsung 970 EVO SSD, M.2 NVMe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboard: Gigabyte B360M HD3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PSU: Seasonic S12II, 620 watts, bronze rated&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitor: 24&quot; AOC 24G2 144hz refresh rate, IPS panel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Same processor, type of SSD (M.2 500gb but samsung brand), and 16gb (8x2) ram. My PSU is Seasonic: S12II (620 watts, bronze rated). Motherboard is Gigabyte B360M HD3 which is perfect for my needs and not much extra features that I don't need. It has a slot for a M.2 SSD which I also have. The only thing that is a little different for you is the GPU. I have a RX 570 but yours is a much newer budget release late last year so a little higher power requirements I would say (but most likely the same PSU is a good fit). Since you wont be using for gaming, you probably wont need a refresh rate above 60hz as stated here, but get an IPS panel. Good for color and very much more affordable. As mentioned for your productivity purposes, a monitor size of at least 27&quot; is ideal. You can also opt for 1440p resolution if you want it to be real clear and less pixelated, but this can be more expensive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also one thing to note is the ram speed of the rams you are buying. If i'm not mistaken it is 3200 MHz? If yes, then there is a good chance you will not be able to utilize the speeds fully. My motherboard only handles a maximum of 2666 MHz, but the i3-9100f does not bottleneck this based on what I read." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14158" RevisionGUID="792202d4-40a7-43dc-88e7-6fef978bb74c" CreationDate="2020-10-17T05:51:33.217" UserId="15623" Text="It's been some days since I have been searching for a suitable MP3 player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Why (context):* I want to get rid of smartphone/internet addiction, but can't let go of music. So, I want a standalone mp3 player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Why not feature phone:* I have a feature phone that I use for calling and stuff. I do not want to use that for music because it will deplete battery as listening to music is something I do for entire day. And since, I have one feature phone I do not want to buy another. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Requirements (ranked):*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. The maximum price should be 50 US dollars (or INR 3600 in my country).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Shuffle feature should be there because as per my experience it gets tiring to listen to one order of songs over and over again.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*My only good finding (that is available to buy in India):*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Sony NWZ-B183F: [video here][1] (this is without shuffle)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems to me I could not find one with shuffle feature (if such a player even exists) and I would appreciate any recommendation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TlmudMONOY" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51658" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14158" RevisionGUID="792202d4-40a7-43dc-88e7-6fef978bb74c" CreationDate="2020-10-17T05:51:33.217" UserId="15623" Text="MP3 Player with shuffle feature" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51659" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14158" RevisionGUID="792202d4-40a7-43dc-88e7-6fef978bb74c" CreationDate="2020-10-17T05:51:33.217" UserId="15623" Text="&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51660" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="299b51aa-52df-4eb2-bd19-97b6b6c00ab3" CreationDate="2020-10-17T06:10:48.920" UserId="16517" Text="&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hello I'm looking for headphones that include all these features (bassically TV headphones that can do bluetooth headphones too) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Base to put on for charging&#xD;&#xA;    Embedded microphone, or slot for plugging one&#xD;&#xA;    Base communicates via 2.4GHz wireless communnication (like the gaming headsets)&#xD;&#xA;    Headphones are usable via bluetooth for smartphone calls in outdoors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optionnal great features would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Base plug supported in linux&#xD;&#xA;    Remote controller on the headphones (start/pause, previous/next/volume up and down)&#xD;&#xA;    suited for large ears (ear size 7*4cm)&#xD;&#xA;    can handle 2 different bluetooth sources&#xD;&#xA;    can handle a bluetooth source and a 2.4GHz wireless source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been a week that I'm searching for a model that matches these specs but couldn't find anything, do you guys have something in mind?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regards&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51661" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="299b51aa-52df-4eb2-bd19-97b6b6c00ab3" CreationDate="2020-10-17T06:10:48.920" UserId="16517" Text="Headphones with embedded micro that supports both 2.4GHz wireless and bluetooth" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51662" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="299b51aa-52df-4eb2-bd19-97b6b6c00ab3" CreationDate="2020-10-17T06:10:48.920" UserId="16517" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51675" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14163" RevisionGUID="7fb6b3fe-3909-4c81-a237-ccbf599ddb60" CreationDate="2020-10-17T14:16:27.373" UserId="16483" Text="Is anyone familiar with a battery operated or hardwired to 220-230V smoke, natural gas, and carbon monoxide detector?&#xD;&#xA;Preferably one that can be monitored remotely (I want to connect it to Home Assistant).&#xD;&#xA;I've found [this one][1], but it works with 120V.&#xD;&#xA;There are a bunch of remotely controlled ones on AliExpress, but are not all 3 combo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.universalsecurity.com/combination-smoke-gas-alarms/hardwired-alarms-33/MICN109" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51676" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14163" RevisionGUID="7fb6b3fe-3909-4c81-a237-ccbf599ddb60" CreationDate="2020-10-17T14:16:27.373" UserId="16483" Text="Combo gas/smoke/carbon monoxide detector" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51677" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14163" RevisionGUID="7fb6b3fe-3909-4c81-a237-ccbf599ddb60" CreationDate="2020-10-17T14:16:27.373" UserId="16483" Text="&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51700" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="83b01302-60e0-4490-a05d-64285cbb9378" CreationDate="2020-10-19T03:59:26.097" UserId="16378" Text="Guys,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Need a suggestion a great motherboard fit. If you're good with computers, please help me out.  I’d be mighty grateful and will return the favor one day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wrote a sob story but skip to the **TLDR** at the bottom of the page if you just want to know what I need and the specific motherboard requirements.  Please suggest the best hardware fit and I will call you a god.  Will also try to return the favor somehow.  I always do.  Thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My Sob Story**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0) but I sued Gigabyte for fraud and got a little more than $1k back in court. Yay!!  Why did I sue?  Well, the motherboard came with an integrated audio chip that was advertised to produce SoundBlaster card quality sound. That's why it was expensive.  It actually could produce the better sound but Gigabyte executives deprecated the audio chip a few months before I bought the motherboard.  They started a new campaign called SoundBlaster Connect 2 and were selling sound cards.  New drivers for the motherboard intentionally wouldn't let the audio chips produce quality sound.  I called their tech support and they even admitted this to me.  They also said they didn't have a single copy of the old driver.  They said they lost it. Not a single copy? I searched everywhere in forums for about 3 months.  I found 2-year-old posts which people state they were using the old driver and the sound was incredible but when I messaged them, they were all afk. The modern driver only plays dull sound, it doesn’t allow the SoundBlaster Connect software to produce quality sound.  After wasting so much time, I decided to sue them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Well, luckily, in most states, what they did leads to triple damages for consumer fraud. There also is a federal law that states a company will get penalized for each incorrect statement they make about their warranty that is written, verbally stated, etc. I actually sued for $3k but the judge only gave me the $1k. That’s how it usually works though. They usually only give half of what you ask for in small claims. If you have a similar problem, let me know and I’ll tell ya' how to sue. It takes a lot of time though like actually going to court and just waiting there and wasting a day.  Just to warn ya'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway, I now have the money to replace my motherboard. I would still like a motherboard around the $200 that I paid for my old one but I could pay more if there is something really great and worth it for a little more. I love this motherboard because it has a lot of great fast ports in which I use all of them. I never could afford a motherboard like this before.  Only problem is that the audio chip which was supposed to be fantastic and supposed to sound like just a sound card, didn't work from the beginning.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would love to get a motherboard that has an integrated audio chip that sounds great so I don't need to buy a sound card.  But, it's not really necessary.  Sound cards don't cost that much anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With the extra money I won though, I recently purchased a Pioneer 212UBK. This is something I'm excited about.  It’s the *only* Blu-ray player that can actually play 4k movies *and* burn 100 gig M-Discs. It’s $150 which I think is a steal since other players all sell for about $100. For example, an LG player is cheaper at $110 and could do the same but it can only burn DVD M-Discs that hold 4.7 gigs. One really bad thing about this Blu-ray player though is that it comes with some high motherboard and monitor requirements. These requirements, I highlighted in italics below. I actually haven't used my new Pioneer player because my motherboard doesn't meet the requirements. Below is the requirements that I wish or need for a new motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**TLDR**&#xD;&#xA;I won some money so I can replace my current motherboard, Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0) in which the sound stinks.  I need suggestions on a replacement with the requirements below.  I'll be amazed if you could recommend a perfect replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard Requirements**   &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Socket: LGA1151&#xD;&#xA; - Form Factor: ATX&#xD;&#xA; - RAM Size: (4 x 16 GB) Dual Channels of RAM (288-PIN DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000Mhz (PC4 24000) &#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Integrated audio chip (not really necessary but would be nice) &#xD;&#xA; - Minimum Requirements due to Pioneer Blu-ray player&#xD;&#xA;   - Graphics: Intel® HD Graphics 630 &#xD;&#xA;   - Output: HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a &#xD;&#xA;   - ATAPI interface: Serial ATA Revision 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;   - Other: Intel® SGX(Software Guard Extensions) &#xD;&#xA;   - Other: Intel® 200 series motherboard&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**==&gt; Can one of you computer experts (I'm actually dumb with computers) suggest a great motherboard fit?**" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51701" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="83b01302-60e0-4490-a05d-64285cbb9378" CreationDate="2020-10-19T03:59:26.097" UserId="16378" Text="Great Motherboard with Maybe Integrated Audio Chip? *not necessary" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51702" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="83b01302-60e0-4490-a05d-64285cbb9378" CreationDate="2020-10-19T03:59:26.097" UserId="16378" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51703" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="e75fe134-1467-48c3-aa48-74d39eb1136f" CreationDate="2020-10-19T12:28:36.627" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 3863 characters in body; edited title" Text="I won some money so I can replace my current motherboard, Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0) in which the sound stinks.  I need suggestions on a replacement with the requirements below.  I'll be amazed if you could recommend a perfect replacement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard Requirements**   &#xD;&#xA;   &#xD;&#xA; - Socket: LGA1151&#xD;&#xA; - Form Factor: ATX&#xD;&#xA; - RAM Size: (4 x 16 GB) Dual Channels of RAM (288-PIN DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000Mhz (PC4 24000) &#xD;&#xA; - Audio: Integrated audio chip (not really necessary but would be nice) &#xD;&#xA; - Minimum Requirements due to Pioneer Blu-ray player&#xD;&#xA;   - Graphics: Intel® HD Graphics 630 &#xD;&#xA;   - Output: HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a &#xD;&#xA;   - ATAPI interface: Serial ATA Revision 3.0 &#xD;&#xA;   - Other: Intel® SGX(Software Guard Extensions) &#xD;&#xA;   - Other: Intel® 200 series motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51704" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="e75fe134-1467-48c3-aa48-74d39eb1136f" CreationDate="2020-10-19T12:28:36.627" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 3863 characters in body; edited title" Text="Great Motherboard with Maybe Integrated Audio Chip?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14169" RevisionGUID="d16b24fb-1fcc-4d6d-b97d-ce291591e63c" CreationDate="2020-10-20T04:53:37.043" UserId="14061" Text="your AORUS Gaming 5 mobo spec shows&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Realtek® ALC1220 codec&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Support for Sound BlasterX 720°&#xD;&#xA;&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; High Definition Audio   2/4/5.1/7.1-channel&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Problem is even with a high end audio codec you can have poor audio if the manufacturer doesn't properly shield or uses poor components.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is this true with that specific mobo you mentioned, I do not know.  When you only say *the sound stinks* that is very subjective and can be caused by a number of things.  To say *the audio chip doesn't work* yes it is possible that model motherboard you have not designed well with regards to audio.  Or if *it doesn't work* then that strongly insinuates a *broken* motherboard... and a replacement would be just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Look at any enthusiast motherboard from any other maker... asrock, asus, evga, msi.  They all use Realtek.  Many of the premium top of the line motherboards all use the ALC1220 codec at the moment, the other most popular was 892.  While possible it could be a gigabyte *problem* with how they integrated audio on that specific motherboard that is purely speculation at this point with nothing else to go on.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Audio nowadays is all ruled by the realtek chip integrated on motherboards, simply check the audio specs of motherboards.  If any of those does not meet your audio quality standards, however you measure that, you are then looking at a professional type audio card that plugs in via PCI-E and will all be shielded and purpose built, and not cheap, and then would likely not support your software [games].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt;  It's just that with this board the current driver doesn't allow the software to function.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This does not mean the mobo or audio design is flawed.  You need to be more forthcoming with all the information.  The software that generates the audio can easily be 50% or more of the problem and would be unfair to blame it all on the audio driver / chipset / motherboard.  Then there are the speakers you are using, as well as your own hearing that could be the problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14170" RevisionGUID="4dfb633a-b933-4f87-b1eb-c1007c98f921" CreationDate="2020-10-20T08:57:48.857" UserId="4039" Text="I don't think a TV will ever be able to read from an SMB share, plus I don't believe there's a little magical device that enables such feature.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BUT! You might want to install Plex, Emby, or Kodi on your NAS and then download the corresponding app on your TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Once everything's set up, you should be able to browse all your media on your Television too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Of course my advice is to keep those SMB shares active, so you can still access your media through your other computers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this helps!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51720" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="ec361092-c5d7-4d00-a7e3-9d184a916f16" CreationDate="2020-10-20T12:04:30.447" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51727" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14175" RevisionGUID="81591693-ff31-45a8-bda7-4d9c5b256b87" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:55:57.020" UserId="16539" Text="We use various Dell notebooks at the company and now I would like to buy a docking station for my home office.&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately some of the notebooks only have USB-C, while others have Thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;Also some have a single port meant for a dock and some have two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I see this right, Dell has the WD19TB (single Thunderbolt) and WD19DC (dual USB-C).&#xD;&#xA;The WD19TB has not enough charging power for the big Dell Precision notebooks.&#xD;&#xA;Other the other side, the WD19DC lacks Thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically I would need a merge of both and a bunch of USB 3.x downstream ports more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51728" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14175" RevisionGUID="81591693-ff31-45a8-bda7-4d9c5b256b87" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:55:57.020" UserId="16539" Text="Are there combined USB-C and Thunderbolt Docks with many ports available?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51729" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14175" RevisionGUID="81591693-ff31-45a8-bda7-4d9c5b256b87" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:55:57.020" UserId="16539" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51737" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14178" RevisionGUID="6a775fda-a8e1-4af5-819a-4cbfe127bac1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T23:01:04.073" UserId="2335" Text="I have a computer connected to a TV that currently uses a wireless keyboard (Microsoft Wireless 3000 v2.0).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally it works fine for basic things like Netflix where there isn't much input, however, if I play games I often end up not being able to move in game.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is either to do with batteries running out or some sort of interference (I'm not 100% sure).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Interestingly I don't have the same problems with the mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to buy a keyboard with a long cable ~9ft so that I can plug it in and also be sitting reasonably far away from the TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has to be a USB cable as I don't have a PS/2 port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It needs to be a full size keyboard but it doesn't need an extra number pad." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51738" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14178" RevisionGUID="6a775fda-a8e1-4af5-819a-4cbfe127bac1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T23:01:04.073" UserId="2335" Text="Is There A USB Keyboard With A 9ft Cable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51739" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14178" RevisionGUID="6a775fda-a8e1-4af5-819a-4cbfe127bac1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T23:01:04.073" UserId="2335" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51740" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="d1cfd718-b4af-4fb6-bfcf-99baa32e2908" CreationDate="2020-10-21T23:05:15.523" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51745" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="f03056c3-c58b-4928-935f-0744db9e5f9e" CreationDate="2020-10-22T03:59:32.703" UserId="16487" Comment="102" />
  <row Id="51752" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14183" RevisionGUID="bc423db1-6a0c-4603-a9f6-a20b46fea218" CreationDate="2020-10-22T18:51:40.820" UserId="16546" Text="I have this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;[home network] -&gt; [router] -&gt; [ISP router] -&gt; (Internet)&#xD;&#xA;                                          |-&gt; private sites in 10.0.0.0/8 network&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;ISP route private addresses to distinct private/corporate sites (i.e. through VPN maked by ISP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ISP router do very basic throttling (based on contract) which even kills any VoIP when someone's Windows download updates. Traffic to private sites is not throttled at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Home router need to have QoS configuration which throttle up&amp;down to avoid congestion directed to Internet, but also need to **not** throttle traffic to selected destinations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus question is: Which home/small business routers&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (models) allows to exclude some destinations from QoS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to check features lists for Ubiquity, Microtek, Netgear, D-Link, TP-Link and many others, but can't find so precise requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current ISP contract defines downlink 300 and uplink 30 Mbps, but could change to 600/60 in future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. As router i mean new (with warranty) and ready-to-fire solution, not combined software like OPNSense or pfSense + buy-somewhere hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PPS. QoS need to support down and up speed without slowing it down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Home/small business router means for me prices to about $300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51753" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14183" RevisionGUID="bc423db1-6a0c-4603-a9f6-a20b46fea218" CreationDate="2020-10-22T18:51:40.820" UserId="16546" Text="Which home/small business routers allow to define exceptions in QoS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51754" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14183" RevisionGUID="bc423db1-6a0c-4603-a9f6-a20b46fea218" CreationDate="2020-10-22T18:51:40.820" UserId="16546" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51755" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14183" RevisionGUID="fc92b61b-2244-4932-8dc4-1473b1ecf68b" CreationDate="2020-10-22T19:00:10.133" UserId="16546" Comment="added 267 characters in body" Text="I have this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;[home network] -&gt; [router] -&gt; [ISP router] -&gt; (Internet)&#xD;&#xA;                                          |-&gt; private sites in 10.0.0.0/8 network&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;ISP route private addresses to distinct private/corporate sites (i.e. through VPN maked by ISP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ISP router do very basic throttling (based on contract) which even kills any VoIP when someone's Windows download updates. Traffic to private sites is not throttled at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Home router need to have QoS configuration which throttle up&amp;down to avoid congestion directed to Internet, but also need to **not** throttle traffic to selected destinations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus question is: Which home/small business routers&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (models) allows to exclude some destinations from QoS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to check features lists for Ubiquity, Microtek, Netgear, D-Link, TP-Link and many others, but can't find so precise requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current ISP contract defines downlink 300 and uplink 30 Mbps, but could change to 600/60 in future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. As router i mean new (with warranty) and ready-to-fire solution, not combined software like OPNSense or pfSense + buy-somewhere hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PPS. QoS need to support down and up speed without slowing it down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PPPS. QoS may be very basic, only need to avoid congestion (slowing down all traffic by one or more devices) on Internet traffic and allow to send/receive *fully without QoS* to some destinations.&#xD;&#xA;*Fully without QoS* may be second QoS rule if router allows that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Home/small business router means for me prices to about $300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51756" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14183" RevisionGUID="98758812-dd2c-440f-bef7-d6c563b45e49" CreationDate="2020-10-22T19:32:26.570" UserId="16546" Comment="added 5 characters in body" Text="I have this configuration:&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;[home network] -&gt; [router] -&gt; [ISP router] -&gt; (Internet)&#xD;&#xA;                                          |-&gt; private sites in 10.0.0.0/8 network&#xD;&#xA;```&#xD;&#xA;ISP route private addresses to distinct private/corporate sites (i.e. through VPN maked by ISP).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;ISP router do very basic throttling (based on contract) which even kills any VoIP when someone's Windows download updates. Traffic to private sites is not throttled at all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Home router need to have QoS configuration which throttle up&amp;down to avoid congestion directed to Internet, but also need to **not** throttle traffic to selected destinations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thus question is: Which home/small business routers&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (models) allows to exclude some destinations from QoS?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I tried to check features lists for Ubiquity, Microtek, Netgear, D-Link, TP-Link and many others, but can't find so precise requirement.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current ISP contract defines downlink 300 and uplink 30 Mbps, but could change to 600/60 in future.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. As router i mean new (with warranty) and ready-to-fire solution, not homebrew with software like OPNSense or pfSense + buy-somewhere hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PPS. QoS need to support down and up speed without slowing it down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PPPS. QoS may be very basic, only need to avoid congestion (slowing down all traffic by one or more devices) on Internet traffic and allow to send/receive *fully without QoS* to some destinations.&#xD;&#xA;*Fully without QoS* may be second QoS rule if router allows that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Home/small business router means for me prices to about $300." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="b5f79c31-9d68-431c-ab21-48684edb970e" CreationDate="2020-10-22T23:39:51.673" UserId="1808" Text="It s well known that graphic cards don t respect pcie standard size. And I just figured out that it can matter the $$ way. Well at least with that too large by 1 or 2 cm (whether considering the space taken with the additionnal power plug) I can sell a partial refund for the new card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/3824869/96940469-1a2f6980-14d0-11eb-970b-475a11025e6c.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;Beside the fact that using pcie gen 4.0 is Ok if the card can still draw electricity from an external power source as in pcie gen 3.0, everything is in the question.  &#xD;&#xA;I would also like more than 120Gp/s performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51759" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="b5f79c31-9d68-431c-ab21-48684edb970e" CreationDate="2020-10-22T23:39:51.673" UserId="1808" Text="Nivdia graphic card no larger than 10 cm supporting ray tracing which can work with pcie gen 3.0 and with dvi or hdmi video output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51760" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="b5f79c31-9d68-431c-ab21-48684edb970e" CreationDate="2020-10-22T23:39:51.673" UserId="1808" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;dvi&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51761" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="227ce92a-eab7-4ae9-9848-85a1b8bb5d5e" CreationDate="2020-10-23T07:05:41.777" UserId="1808" Comment="edited body" Text="It s well known that graphic cards don t respect pcie standard size. And I just figured out that it can matter the $$ way. Well at least with that too large by 1 or 2 cm (whether considering the space taken with the additionnal power plug) I can sell a partial refund for the new card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/3824869/96966840-d60f8980-150e-11eb-87e3-8ed989eebef3.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;Beside the fact that using pcie gen 4.0 is Ok if the card can still draw electricity from an external power source as in pcie gen 3.0, everything is in the question.  &#xD;&#xA;I would also like more than 120Gp/s performance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51762" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="2123ece5-ae1c-4922-93a9-ccf26d422614" CreationDate="2020-10-23T07:36:48.823" UserId="1808" Comment="Wrong size" Text="Nivdia graphic card no larger than 125mm supporting ray tracing which can work with pcie gen 3.0 and with dvi or hdmi video output" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51763" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14184" RevisionGUID="4262e4f6-2075-4687-b1b9-549a279d7278" CreationDate="2020-10-23T07:49:48.303" UserId="1808" Comment="added 226 characters in body" Text="It s well known that graphic cards don t respect pcie standard size. And I just figured out that it can matter the $$ way. Well at least with that too large by 1 or 2 cm (whether considering the space taken with the additionnal power plug) I can sell a partial refund for the new card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;![](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/3824869/96966840-d60f8980-150e-11eb-87e3-8ed989eebef3.jpg)&#xD;&#xA;Beside the fact that using pcie gen 4.0 is Ok if the card can still draw electricity from an external power source as in pcie gen 3.0, everything is in the question.  &#xD;&#xA;I would also like more than 120Gp/s performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One has to be carefull in order not repeat the same mistake because unlike the [reported 114mm width by the manufacturer](https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070G1-GAMING-8GD-rev-10/sp#sp), the real width is 145mm." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14186" RevisionGUID="5d67db03-dfb6-4242-8f6c-3dd6efe85bb3" CreationDate="2020-10-23T15:29:43.527" UserId="10148" Text="Full HD&#xD;&#xA;1920 1080&#xD;&#xA;Have internal speaker&#xD;&#xA;Price around $100&#xD;&#xA;Size around 24 inch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for it in tokopedia and many specs aren't clear. Many &quot;full hd&quot; monitors are actually HD ready. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing that may qualify is this monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/utamaglodok/lg-led-tv-24-inch-full-hd-24tk42-garansi-resmi-lg?whid=9811&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's LG LED 24tk42&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I cannot find the actual LG website that list the specs. There is the spec for LG 24TK4225 and those are HD ready and not full HD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if there is a site to compare specs for LED or if someone knows the exact item I can buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51769" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14186" RevisionGUID="5d67db03-dfb6-4242-8f6c-3dd6efe85bb3" CreationDate="2020-10-23T15:29:43.527" UserId="10148" Text="I need 24 inch monitor LED with the following specs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51770" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14186" RevisionGUID="5d67db03-dfb6-4242-8f6c-3dd6efe85bb3" CreationDate="2020-10-23T15:29:43.527" UserId="10148" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14186" RevisionGUID="02b660d7-eece-44a0-bb4e-f54725ec32e8" CreationDate="2020-10-23T15:41:09.000" UserId="10148" Comment="added 104 characters in body" Text=" 1. Full HD&#xD;&#xA; 2. 1920 1080&#xD;&#xA; 3. Have internal speaker ( do not need additional speaker to hear sounds)&#xD;&#xA; 4. Price around $100 (cheaper better)&#xD;&#xA; 5. Size around 24 inch.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Support HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been searching for it in tokopedia and many specs aren't clear. Many &quot;full hd&quot; monitors are actually HD ready. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One thing that may qualify is this monitor&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.tokopedia.com/utamaglodok/lg-led-tv-24-inch-full-hd-24tk42-garansi-resmi-lg?whid=9811&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's LG LED 24tk42&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, I cannot find the actual LG website that list the specs. There is the spec for LG 24TK4225 and those are HD ready and not full HD&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder if there is a site to compare specs for LED or if someone knows the exact item I can buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51772" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9857" RevisionGUID="f99a755b-cf01-4016-8226-4df1eb960a82" CreationDate="2020-10-23T16:07:10.707" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51804" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14191" RevisionGUID="b458e6b0-ac8e-4532-a37d-5e747f8d68de" CreationDate="2020-10-25T09:19:17.943" UserId="16557" Text="I have following issue, I have only access to a wifi hotspot with two devices, where I have to log in. If I try to log in with a third device, the log in fails. My goal is to use one device, that connects to this wifi and logs in, and this device makes a further hotspot for multiple devices, which don't have to struggle with the limit of the two devices rule.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lot of laptops, for example, support this. Mine does not, is there a good way to achieve this? I have a router (some old Netgear router), but I don't think he can do this. It would be nice to use this device as a router, in order to be able to connect further ethernet devices.&#xD;&#xA;- Are there routers supporting this?&#xD;&#xA;- If not, what do I have to look out for, I don't want to have to build a computer which consumes more energy than it absolutely has to." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51805" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14191" RevisionGUID="b458e6b0-ac8e-4532-a37d-5e747f8d68de" CreationDate="2020-10-25T09:19:17.943" UserId="16557" Text="Device that allows me to make a Wifi Hotspot while connected to Wifi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51806" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14191" RevisionGUID="b458e6b0-ac8e-4532-a37d-5e747f8d68de" CreationDate="2020-10-25T09:19:17.943" UserId="16557" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51813" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="c7d47d5d-132c-4376-9eef-dddcb8f4625b" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:13:31.517" UserId="16560" Text="Should I go for old mac air or similarly priced laptops to run Linux as the sole OS on it? **Longevity** of the hardware is a concern and screen viewing should be very pleasant to the eyes (=for **less eye strain**) A few models for comparison “Asus Tuf Gaming FX705DT&quot; and “Asus ZenBook Flip-Ryzen 7&quot; with &quot;MacBook air old model with dual core i5&quot;. Will the non mac hardware **last** 7-8 years? Will the mac with Linux **last** 7-8 years? Do you advise me to go for **any other hardware set** which will be **better** than these? Do you advise me to go for the cheapest piece of hardware that supports Linux? N.B. Max $1000 if hardware lasts 7-8 years without problems, otherwise cheap and long lasting is best. Thank you in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51814" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="c7d47d5d-132c-4376-9eef-dddcb8f4625b" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:13:31.517" UserId="16560" Text="Hardware set (machine) for Linux noob in 2020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51815" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="c7d47d5d-132c-4376-9eef-dddcb8f4625b" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:13:31.517" UserId="16560" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51816" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14195" RevisionGUID="0621dd3c-35a3-4a6e-b892-f123176c4e4e" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:57:19.660" UserId="7260" Text="I am looking for a **very good** mouse for my MacBook Pro (2016, 15&quot;, macOS 10.15.7).  &#xD;&#xA;I have just returned the *Logitech MX Master 3* because of the loudness of the left/right buttons and of how poor the BT connection is.  &#xD;&#xA;Here are my priorities:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Possibly Bluetooth, first priority.&#xD;&#xA; - It has at least 8-10 total programmable buttons and it needs to be possible to program it from macOS (though one could use the USB Receiver app in case that would not be possible, for example with Razer mice)&#xD;&#xA; - Build quality has to be superb, I've read too much about very expensive mice getting their wheel unresponsive and/or with poor plastic-y quality. &#xD;&#xA; - Possibly not Logitech because of the recent experience with their support, unless you think this is the best mouse ever.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with iPadOS, which goes with the first priority.&#xD;&#xA; - At least 8-10k DPI resolution.&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic design or ambidextrous.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you advise on something that satisfies as many of these priorities as possible? If you have your experience it will be most welcome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51817" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14195" RevisionGUID="0621dd3c-35a3-4a6e-b892-f123176c4e4e" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:57:19.660" UserId="7260" Text="Could you advise a very good multi-button mouse for macOS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51818" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14195" RevisionGUID="0621dd3c-35a3-4a6e-b892-f123176c4e4e" CreationDate="2020-10-26T11:57:19.660" UserId="7260" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;macos&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51819" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6896" RevisionGUID="e82f7606-fae3-4aaf-a30e-2adc5f80600f" CreationDate="2020-10-26T12:02:45.363" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14197" RevisionGUID="b0863004-259a-4cc2-aaae-a088d380e1d2" CreationDate="2020-10-26T16:22:02.317" UserId="10648" Text="The [SteelSeries Arctis Pro Wireless](https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-pro-wireless) may be what you're looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- It has a proprietary 2.4 Ghz wireless signal and base station with a variety of connection options; Support for Linux is as good as your soundcard's Linux support. But the USB connection should be plug and play too.&#xD;&#xA;- It supports Bluetooth sound simultaneously with the base station.&#xD;&#xA;- It comes with two quick-swappable batteries instead of a charging dock.&#xD;&#xA;- It has a retractable microphone built-in.&#xD;&#xA;- It supports Bluetooth multipoint, but can only connect to one Bluetooth source at a time." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51835" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14199" RevisionGUID="eba60248-f57b-4060-9eb8-753ac5ca3425" CreationDate="2020-10-27T02:11:17.993" UserId="6047" Text="The keyboard request you've put in sounds like you would like a *mechanical tenkeyless keyboard*. It sounds like you would dislike chiclet or membrane keyboards which are usually more low profile. Mechanical keyboards prevent ghosting keys, are usually a lot more sturdy, and have a much farther key travel distance than scissor switch membrane keyboards. Your request for looks cool to a 7-year old suggest you would like backlighting, and it is actually hard not to get keyboards lit up like a Christmas tree for mechanical keyboards at the price range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[USB 3.0 Extension Cable 10FT Type A Male to Female Extension $9.99][1]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;10 Ft Cable, and braided with aluminum for durability. Chances are with a cord this long in a common area with a TV someone is bound to snag something on it at some point. This should give you some piece of mind.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Velocifire Tenkeyless Mechanical Mini | $29.99][3]&#xD;&#xA;----------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Keyboard that matches your request and has tactile feedback. Not a lot of reliable review data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 29.718 cm length&#xD;&#xA; - Compact&#xD;&#xA; - [Outemu Brown switch][5] mechanical&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Redragon K552 Compact RGB Backlit | $39.99][6]&#xD;&#xA;---------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][7]][7]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - RGB blacklit with heavily customizable lighting patterns&#xD;&#xA; - [Cherry MX Blue Switches][8]&#xD;&#xA; - Metal-ABS Construction&#xD;&#xA; - **87** tenkeyless&#xD;&#xA; - **35.4076 cm** length&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First off, this keyboard is 87 tenkeyless and slightly over your 30 cm requirement. The reason I'm also recommending this keyboard is b/c it appears in several syndicated articles as a budget mechanical keyboard and has Cherry MX switches which I'm familiar with and are typing this recommendation with. Cherry MX is a household name for most casual and professional gamers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given my familiarity with the switches, reliable reviews I would consider this keyboard as well. Finally, you may want to play a racing game in the future and these typically lend themselves best to using the arrow keys, particularly if there is some sort of gear control on the cars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Extension-AINOPE-Material-Transfer-Compatible/dp/B07ZV6FHWF/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb%20extender%2010%20ft&amp;qid=1603761872&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhOiV.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Double-Shot-Copywriter-Programmer/dp/B071W16NVZ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Tenkeyless%20mechanical%20keyboard&amp;qid=1603761829&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-4000&amp;rnid=386453011&amp;sr=8-4&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/j77p2.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [5]: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/switches/index.php?switch=Outemu-Brown&#xD;&#xA;  [6]: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-RGB-Mechanical-Keyboard-Construction/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Tenkeyless%20mechanical%20keyboard&amp;qid=1603761829&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-4000&amp;rnid=386453011&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2HsZ.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [8]: https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-blue.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51839" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14201" RevisionGUID="d4f1c37a-15cd-4084-9ce7-e2ae7be2b119" CreationDate="2020-10-27T03:08:45.307" UserId="16564" Text="    These are top picks around 100$&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. [HP 24mh FHD Monitor - Computer Monitor with 23.8-inch IPS Display (1080p) - Built-in Speakers and VESA Mounting - Height/Tilt Adjustment for Ergonomic Viewing - HDMI and DisplayPort - (1D0J9AA#ABA)][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FHD with built in speakers&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    The below ones are without speakers but have audio Jack&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. [Philips 246E9QDSB 24&quot; frameless monitor, Full HD IPS, 129% sRGB, 75Hz, FreeSync, VESA, 4Yr Advance Replacement Warranty][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;FHD with audio jack for headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. [Sceptre 24 Inch Ultra Thin Ultra Slim 1080P 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black (E248W-1920R)][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/HP-24mh-FHD-Monitor-Built/dp/B08BF4CZSV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&amp;keywords=24%20inch%20monitor&amp;qid=1603767712&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMDRFSDE5S1NKMEJFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjE4MDIwMlJNQlFMN1lTVTZCVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjM1OTQ4TUhJSzhGU1BFUDI2JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK4W58Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-E248W-1920R-Ultra-1080p-Monitor/dp/B01HIA63AU/ref=sxin_10_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-MjQgaW5jaCBnYW1pbmcgbW9uaXRvcg%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&amp;cv_ct_cx=24%20inch%20monitor&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=24%20inch%20monitor&amp;pd_rd_i=B01HIA63AU&amp;pd_rd_r=d37d3102-2589-43ba-ba98-031f6f64db7a&amp;pd_rd_w=9zPdF&amp;pd_rd_wg=4tq4B&amp;pf_rd_p=3d1a8341-be16-45b1-ae3d-ba8c533ec9f0&amp;pf_rd_r=EXM7TM2EBASDWZDHHP7X&amp;psc=1&amp;qid=1603767712&amp;sr=1-2-12d4272d-8adb-4121-8624-135149aa9081" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14202" RevisionGUID="47aab7b6-1b3f-4562-b103-e7ba60be8ada" CreationDate="2020-10-27T14:29:30.430" UserId="15623" Text="I am in search of a device where I can **only (and only)** read manga or comics (color is preferable but I'm okay with black and white).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Requirements:*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. No youtube, browser, whatsapp, call facility! In short, a smartphone/tablet is not at all preferable as I have symptoms of [ADHD][1] and it's hard for me to focus on one thing. But I really enjoy reading comics and manga. Usually, I was buying hardcopies but I can't keep on buying volumes one by one.&#xD;&#xA; 2. So, since a smartphone is a no, an e-reader comes into the picture. My initial search brings me to [Amazon Kindle][2]. This piqued my interest as it involved **e-ink (it is pigment based and not light based, so it won't be that harmful for eyes)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, as per my findings, this (above) Kindle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Doesn't support color&#xD;&#xA; 2. Doesn't give a good experience in zooming in and out as these so called pigments are reassembling every time ([Reddit Discussion][3]  points to this fact)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Considering the constraints (which seem like an [outlier][4]) can I get a recommendation on a device that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. is for the sole purpose of reading comics or manga&#xD;&#xA; 2. may or may not display in color (I am willing to invest in a color)&#xD;&#xA; 3. is affordable for me (within 90$ or 7000 INR)&#xD;&#xA; 4. may or may not use e-ink and if it is a tablet then it should be only for reading&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not that I have decided not to go for Kindle but the above discussion has reduced my interest in it. I am open to other e-readers also provided I can get them in India somehow.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attention_deficit_hyperactivity_disorder&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.in/Staging-Product-Not-Retail-Sale/dp/B07FQ4Q5DH/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=kindle&amp;qid=1603808229&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.reddit.com/r/kindle/comments/a0w06f/kindle_for_reading_manga/&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBD_enFR773IN773&amp;sxsrf=ALeKk00xmdYLl14GWJP8Tz37cieQaE48EA%3A1603808640895&amp;ei=gC2YX62dNtrWz7sPkbyhmAQ&amp;q=outlier&amp;oq=outlier&amp;gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzIHCCMQyQMQJzIICAAQsQMQkQIyBwguELEDEEMyBQgAELEDMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAOgQIIxAnOgsIABCxAxCDARDJAzoCCC46BAguECc6DQgAELEDEIMBEMkDEEM6BAguEEM6BAgAEEM6BQguELEDOggIABDJAxCRAjoKCAAQsQMQgwEQQzoICC4QsQMQgwE6CggAEMkDEBQQhwI6BwgAEBQQhwJQmBVYyyVguCZoAnAAeACAAdQBiAHyCpIBBTAuNy4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpesABAQ&amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;ved=0ahUKEwit3c_i_NTsAhVa63MBHRFeCEMQ4dUDCA0&amp;uact=5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51843" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14202" RevisionGUID="47aab7b6-1b3f-4562-b103-e7ba60be8ada" CreationDate="2020-10-27T14:29:30.430" UserId="15623" Text="Device or gadget to read only comics/manga" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51844" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14202" RevisionGUID="47aab7b6-1b3f-4562-b103-e7ba60be8ada" CreationDate="2020-10-27T14:29:30.430" UserId="15623" Text="&lt;e-reader&gt;&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51845" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12402" RevisionGUID="57ed1070-25c2-4b37-bdd8-0b5ef842a594" CreationDate="2020-10-27T15:07:50.727" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14207" RevisionGUID="b565ec8c-5d94-4458-abac-2a998ff127a0" CreationDate="2020-10-28T17:20:56.553" UserId="15868" Text="I prefer a &quot;backwards L&quot; shaped ENTER key, **or at least** with an ENTER key that takes up two rows, as shown in the diagram.  Trying to find this feature in a **wireless, mechanical** keyboard. [![enter image description here][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Looking for a Wireless, Mechanical keyboard with such a two-row ENTER key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2s6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51857" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14207" RevisionGUID="b565ec8c-5d94-4458-abac-2a998ff127a0" CreationDate="2020-10-28T17:20:56.553" UserId="15868" Text="Wireless Mechanical Keyboard with L-shape ENTER key" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51858" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14207" RevisionGUID="b565ec8c-5d94-4458-abac-2a998ff127a0" CreationDate="2020-10-28T17:20:56.553" UserId="15868" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51859" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14207" RevisionGUID="a916d955-020e-4b66-a60c-2946c689d7b0" CreationDate="2020-10-28T17:26:05.050" UserId="15868" Comment="added 4 characters in body" Text="I prefer a &quot;**backwards-L**&quot; shaped ENTER key, **or at least** with an ENTER key that takes up two rows, as shown in the diagram.  Trying to find this feature in a **wireless, mechanical** keyboard. [![enter image description here][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Looking for a Wireless, Mechanical keyboard with such a two-row ENTER key.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2s6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51861" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="a24a18c3-28c3-499a-8c40-130871385b19" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:44:53.437" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar" Text="I am looking for a potential upgrade to my laptop. I want a Windows 10 machine;  something smaller, lighter and more portable than what I now have, preferably with a metal shell. I have a budget of about £250. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CPU needs to be at least at the level of an AMD A9-9410, or better, as this is what my current laptop has. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other features that are necessary are: at least 32 GB of storage and at least 4 GB of ram with room to add an M.2 SSD, full HD 1920x1080 screen, as thin and light as possible. It must run Windows 10.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice-to-to-haves would be USB type C, and backlit keyboard.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Please can you advise me on what to buy? I have seen brands like CHUWI, Jumper and Teclast. that all seem to do these standards of laptops.  Thank You!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51862" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="a24a18c3-28c3-499a-8c40-130871385b19" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:44:53.437" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar" Text="Which Windows laptop should I buy for near £250?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51863" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13093" RevisionGUID="a24a18c3-28c3-499a-8c40-130871385b19" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:44:53.437" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 6047 edit id of 1043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51871" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="a35fab2d-7719-43bd-bba8-ed434a8359d7" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:47:08.317" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="I want a USB-C male connector to use my [Qi][1] tag charger and also have one USB port free to use with the regular charger without unplugging the Qi tag.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can't find a good splitter for USB-C. I found one for USB-C audio and USB-C charging and I remember some kind of connectors that have inside a female and at the same time they were male. I could solder the Qi tag to this splitter and it may be ok&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qi_(standard)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51872" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="a35fab2d-7719-43bd-bba8-ed434a8359d7" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:47:08.317" UserId="9825" Comment="Clarity, grammar, spelling" Text="USB-C male to 2 female inside" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51873" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13117" RevisionGUID="a35fab2d-7719-43bd-bba8-ed434a8359d7" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:47:08.317" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 6047 edit id of 1049" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51881" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="1bc06549-c829-4a91-bb61-1a5bb7de51ef" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:48:01.827" UserId="9825" Comment="Reference web link, clarity" Text="I need to record blood pressure with a [blood pressure cuff][1] interfaced to an [Arduino uno][2] module so the data can be logged. I searched the web for a such a device, but could not found anything useful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Which modules should I look for?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphygmomanometer&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51882" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13248" RevisionGUID="1bc06549-c829-4a91-bb61-1a5bb7de51ef" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:48:01.827" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 6047 edit id of 1073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51888" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14207" RevisionGUID="ccc3f613-34d2-452b-a99e-aa9150ff7fe8" CreationDate="2020-10-29T01:55:39.707" UserId="6047" Comment="Redundant." Text="I prefer a &quot;**backwards-L**&quot; shaped ENTER key, **or at least** with an ENTER key that takes up two rows, as shown in the diagram.  Trying to find this feature in a **wireless, mechanical** keyboard. [![enter image description here][1]][1]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2s6Y.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51889" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10838" RevisionGUID="266d287c-256a-4d75-a9bf-c3bf7ff6758e" CreationDate="2020-10-29T02:03:55.400" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51891" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14209" RevisionGUID="7b647355-dc95-45ab-9f3b-a7076d88cbad" CreationDate="2020-10-30T01:00:28.150" UserId="13520" Text="I am looking for laptop with taller screen (i.e. aspect ratio 3:2 or better (4:3, 5:4, whatever... just not 16:9 or 16:10), and **matte screen**. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found it especially tricky to look for laptops with matte screen today. Most of the manufacturers don't put this information in their specs and many databases have false data. For example an awesome database [notebookcheck.net](https://www.notebookcheck.net/Laptop-Search.8223.0.html#results) does allow to filter `3:2 aspect ratio` and `glossy: no`, but it will say that [Huawei Matebook X Pro](https://www.notebookcheck.net/Huawei-MateBook-X-Pro-i7.290546.0.html) is matte while [it's glossy](https://youtu.be/t4O7VQOYS1M?t=117), and it will say that [Acer Swift 3 is glossy ](https://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Swift-3-SF313-52-52AS.494077.0.html) while [it's matte](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1VIHS9068Y). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also my favourite store alza.cz does allow to filter by aspect ratio and mattness/glossiness, but also seem to have false information, e.g. it says that [Huawei Matebook 13 is matte]( https://www.alza.cz/huawei-matebook-13-2020-space-gray-d5893097.htm#discussionPosts) while [it's glossy](https://youtu.be/_Lv0XcUs2i8?t=57).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or am I wrong because these models have both matte/glossy variants?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems a big mess in this so please, **are there any  non-widescreen laptops with matte screen?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(only found that Acer Swift 3)&lt;/sub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51892" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14209" RevisionGUID="7b647355-dc95-45ab-9f3b-a7076d88cbad" CreationDate="2020-10-30T01:00:28.150" UserId="13520" Text="Laptop with matte screen and non-widescreen aspect ratio" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51893" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14209" RevisionGUID="7b647355-dc95-45ab-9f3b-a7076d88cbad" CreationDate="2020-10-30T01:00:28.150" UserId="13520" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51927" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14211" RevisionGUID="157c5822-e5b9-4409-9bab-eba9b3a838cf" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:06:15.177" UserId="16574" Text="I have an Oculus Quest 2 that I am using with my PC for running VR games from Steam. The headset needs to be plugged in while playing Steam VR games. My desktop does not have a USB-C native plug, but does have USB 3 ports that I am using.&#xA;&#xA;The device slowly dies because it uses more power than it draws, so I'm trying to find some kind of hybrid adapter which can provide power delivery &gt;= 2 amps while being a more or less transparent pass-through to the PC for data transfer. &#xA;&#xA;I'm having a hard time even searching for something like this. Does anyone know if such an adapter exists? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51928" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14211" RevisionGUID="157c5822-e5b9-4409-9bab-eba9b3a838cf" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:06:15.177" UserId="16574" Text="Hybrid USB Charging (Power Delivery) and PC Connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51929" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14211" RevisionGUID="157c5822-e5b9-4409-9bab-eba9b3a838cf" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:06:15.177" UserId="16574" Text="&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51930" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14212" RevisionGUID="6bbd59e7-6e08-4929-9f9c-19383f359885" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:09:27.950" UserId="16567" Text="I need a USB Bluetooth Hub that has a range of at least 30 feet.  It should have low latency, at least 3 USB ports, little to no loss of input, and should have great quality with a decent price.  The most I'll pay for is 30$ and I prefer it be on amazon although not needed.  I intend to use this to connect a wired mouse and keyboard to my computer wirelessly.  Any suggestions?  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51931" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14212" RevisionGUID="6bbd59e7-6e08-4929-9f9c-19383f359885" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:09:27.950" UserId="16567" Text="I need a USB Bluetooth Hub with a decent range" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51932" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14212" RevisionGUID="6bbd59e7-6e08-4929-9f9c-19383f359885" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:09:27.950" UserId="16567" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bluetooth-adapter&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51938" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13923" RevisionGUID="9264c207-2908-4a45-8be3-b5d5c4eba91e" CreationDate="2020-10-31T14:03:35.287" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51951" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14216" RevisionGUID="6cc6628b-c9b4-414d-805c-b8838f4a28ca" CreationDate="2020-11-01T17:28:48.137" UserId="52" Text="It isn't wireless, but provides the _backwards-L_ ENTER key you desire and is customizable: https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/wasd-v3-105-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51955" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14218" RevisionGUID="29138558-c978-4fef-81ab-cb2218cbf270" CreationDate="2020-11-02T19:54:34.583" UserId="1921" Text="Instead of something hard to find how about&#xD;&#xA;http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&amp;item=254643475962&amp;category=90718&amp;pm=1&amp;ds=0&amp;t=1604346693155&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note the separate power supply connector on the back.[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHc2m.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51956" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="251f6ca5-a3ef-46bd-9c89-568ec586dc69" CreationDate="2020-11-03T05:53:40.410" UserId="7556" Comment="103" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="51957" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="12934" RevisionGUID="c9146abc-21a1-4216-be24-6439a04a392d" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:01:36.300" UserId="9599" Comment="added direct link" Text="There are a number of binary clock designs on [Instructables][1], as well as a few binary watch models. Due to a sign-on requirement for searches, the above link now goes only to Instructables. Use &quot;binary watch&quot; in the search box for the same results, or go to [the instructable with this result](https://www.instructables.com/id/Binary-Wrist-Watch/):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![binary wrist watch][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One great aspect of Instructables is that you can begin with a post you like and modify it to meet your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.instructables.com/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QcwD.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51958" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="12934" RevisionGUID="c9146abc-21a1-4216-be24-6439a04a392d" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:01:36.300" Comment="Proposed by 9599 approved by 9825, 7556 edit id of 1020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51960" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13543" RevisionGUID="f5ac48bb-af36-4457-bc00-b1a44bbfe0a1" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:04:23.917" UserId="9825" Comment="added 351 characters in body" Text="Digital Subscriber Line (AKA DSL, VDSL, ADSL), a broadband delivery system which uses a telephone copper pair and puts a carrier above audible human speech frequencies to carry data. It requires a filter to block the frequencies above 3,300 Hz from reaching every traditional telephone device on the wire, and is problematic with many alarm systems.  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51961" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13543" RevisionGUID="f5ac48bb-af36-4457-bc00-b1a44bbfe0a1" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:04:23.917" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1104" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51965" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="8d73b2fe-703f-4326-8607-92332cc65005" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:05:52.780" UserId="24" Comment="English++, format" Text="I am looking for headphones that include all these features (basically TV headphones that can do bluetooth headphones too):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Base to put on for charging&#xD;&#xA; - Embedded microphone, or slot for plugging&#xD;&#xA; - One base communicates via 2.4GHz wireless communication (like the&#xD;&#xA;   gaming headsets)&#xD;&#xA; - Headphones are usable via bluetooth for smartphone calls in outdoors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Optional great features would be:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Base plug supported in&#xD;&#xA;- Remote controller on the headphones (start/pause, previous/next/volume up and down)&#xD;&#xA;- suited for large ears (ear size 7*4cm)&#xD;&#xA;- can handle 2 different bluetooth sources&#xD;&#xA;- can handle a bluetooth source and a 2.4GHz wireless source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's been a week that I'm searching for a model that matches these specs but couldn't find anything. Do you guys have something in mind?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51966" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="8d73b2fe-703f-4326-8607-92332cc65005" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:05:52.780" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 6047, 7556 edit id of 1139" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51967" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13272" RevisionGUID="012888d4-9030-4e90-9994-c0a199c61034" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:06:09.777" UserId="9825" Comment="added 215 characters in body" Text="Adaptive technology is an “add-on” for an existing technology to help disabled individuals access that technology. Examples include speech recognition software and screen reader apps, Braille keyboards and printers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51968" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13272" RevisionGUID="012888d4-9030-4e90-9994-c0a199c61034" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:06:09.777" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51971" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13745" RevisionGUID="bd7a7bf2-592f-4633-952f-718455d7299f" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:07:04.520" UserId="2097" Comment="added 475 characters in body" Text="From [Chromebook - Wikipedia][1] &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; A Chromebook is a laptop or tablet running the Linux-based Chrome OS as its operating system. The devices are primarily used to perform a variety of tasks using the Google Chrome browser, with most applications and data residing in the cloud rather than on the machine itself. All Chromebooks released since late 2017 can also run Android apps. Some Chromebooks can run Linux apps.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[1]:https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromebook " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51972" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13745" RevisionGUID="bd7a7bf2-592f-4633-952f-718455d7299f" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:07:04.520" Comment="Proposed by 2097 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1112" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51973" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13542" RevisionGUID="61fb9c23-2175-4a30-84dd-f0e58557c9e3" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:07:13.723" UserId="9825" Comment="added 628 characters in body" Text="[Digital Subscriber Line][1] (AKA [DSL][2], [VDSL][3], [ADSL][4]), a broadband delivery system which uses a telephone copper pair and puts a carrier above audible human speech frequencies to carry data. It requires a filter to block the frequencies above 3,300 Hz from reaching every traditional telephone device on the wire, and is problematic with many alarm systems.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.attinternetservice.com/resources/what-is-dsl-internet/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_subscriber_line&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VDSL&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asymmetric_digital_subscriber_line" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51974" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13542" RevisionGUID="61fb9c23-2175-4a30-84dd-f0e58557c9e3" CreationDate="2020-11-03T06:07:13.723" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51977" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12984" RevisionGUID="2f756e78-d35b-4f70-8e20-177febf56118" CreationDate="2020-11-03T07:05:00.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="51978" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14219" RevisionGUID="103d74ab-940a-4717-ab5e-8be72635f1ec" CreationDate="2020-11-03T08:57:51.143" UserId="16585" Text="I just received a Dell Latitude 7210 2-in-1 as workstation from my new employer. Since I'll have to work in home office for the next few weeks or months (due to covid) I'll have to setup an home office workspace. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now my employer already gave me Dell DisplayLink to connect one of my monitors and ethernet. But I have only one accessible USB slot and now I'm kinda lacking the possibility to connect all of my peripherals. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact I am looking for recommondations in regards of USB Hubs or Docks with multiple ports (maybe for also my second monitor). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I want to connect is the following:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless Mouse (1 Dongle USB) &#xD;&#xA;- Wired Keyboard (USB)&#xD;&#xA;- Wired Headphone station (USB) &#xD;&#xA;- External SSD (USB) &#xD;&#xA;- HDMI / VGA Monitor &#xD;&#xA;- HDMI / DP Monitor&#xD;&#xA;- If possoble additional pc audio boxes (Minijack) &#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I am able to connect now with the Dell Display Link &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless mouse&#xD;&#xA;- One Monitor via HDMI&#xD;&#xA;- Ethernet&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any recommondations on combinations of docks / hubs / cables to achieve my setup? &#xD;&#xA;Also it shouldn't be to pricey if possible. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51979" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14219" RevisionGUID="103d74ab-940a-4717-ab5e-8be72635f1ec" CreationDate="2020-11-03T08:57:51.143" UserId="16585" Text="Dell Latidute Home Office Workspace" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51980" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14219" RevisionGUID="103d74ab-940a-4717-ab5e-8be72635f1ec" CreationDate="2020-11-03T08:57:51.143" UserId="16585" Text="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51993" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14223" RevisionGUID="5d6f40a7-88d6-4e32-9156-3b82e70f6d63" CreationDate="2020-11-03T22:05:37.163" UserId="16590" Text="I am looking for a laptop for work and study. This laptop must be able to handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Videoconferences e.g. Zoom or Meet&#xD;&#xA;- Use Microfost Office programs (Word, Excel, PowerPoint)&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Internet browsing&#xD;&#xA;- Programming e.g. Visual Studio Code, GitHub&#xD;&#xA;- Video editing e.g. Camtasia&#xD;&#xA;- Video games (rarely)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in the following 2 laptops because the shop is in my city:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Notebook Dell Inspiron I3593-7872BLK-PUS Premium 15.6'' Intel Core i7 8 GB DDR4 (USD ~4.054)**&#xD;&#xA;2. **Notebook Asus TUF Gaming FX505DV AMD Ryzen 7 (USD ~2.280)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps the most recommended is the Asus one because of processor minimum velocity (2.3 GHz instead of 1.3 GHz), but I have never used a gaming computer. I don't know about AMD processors either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Comparison page between the laptops where I can buy them (in Spanish, but it can be translated)](https://www.garbarino.com/comparador-productos?xids=1785382ad4,7d8ce79596&amp;type=category&amp;id=4363&amp;cu=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ2FyYmFyaW5vLmNvbS9wcm9kdWN0b3Mvbm90ZWJvb2tzLzQzNjM=)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you suggest me to buy? 1 or 2?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51994" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14223" RevisionGUID="5d6f40a7-88d6-4e32-9156-3b82e70f6d63" CreationDate="2020-11-03T22:05:37.163" UserId="16590" Text="Which laptop should I buy for video editing &amp; web browsing &amp; some video games?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51995" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14223" RevisionGUID="5d6f40a7-88d6-4e32-9156-3b82e70f6d63" CreationDate="2020-11-03T22:05:37.163" UserId="16590" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51996" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="df501db7-9fad-43b2-9d2d-4c434b283ff8" CreationDate="2020-11-04T10:06:46.713" UserId="16377" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering installing a Dual Boot.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thats should be it! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recomending the *thinkpad*, but I'm not sure if it will fits my needs and if I am into it with my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51997" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="df501db7-9fad-43b2-9d2d-4c434b283ff8" CreationDate="2020-11-04T10:06:46.713" UserId="16377" Text="Laptop suggestion for programming/utility work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51998" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="df501db7-9fad-43b2-9d2d-4c434b283ff8" CreationDate="2020-11-04T10:06:46.713" UserId="16377" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="51999" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14223" RevisionGUID="dd385375-0a1f-4594-a880-ef9148b4e9c8" CreationDate="2020-11-04T15:13:35.577" UserId="16590" Comment="edited body" Text="I am looking for a laptop for work and study. This laptop must be able to handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Videoconferences e.g. Zoom or Meet&#xD;&#xA;- Use Microsoft Office programs (Word, Excel, PowerPoint)&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Internet browsing&#xD;&#xA;- Programming e.g. Visual Studio Code, GitHub&#xD;&#xA;- Video editing e.g. Camtasia&#xD;&#xA;- Video games (rarely)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in the following 2 laptops because the shop is in my city:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Notebook Dell Inspiron I3593-7872BLK-PUS Premium 15.6'' Intel Core i7 8 GB DDR4 (USD ~2.214)**&#xD;&#xA;2. **Notebook Asus TUF Gaming FX505DV AMD Ryzen 7 (USD ~2.280)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps the most recommended is the Asus one because of processor minimum velocity (2.3 GHz instead of 1.3 GHz), but I have never used a gaming computer. I don't know about AMD processors either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Comparison page between the laptops where I can buy them (in Spanish, but it can be translated)](https://www.garbarino.com/comparador-productos?xids=1785382ad4,7d8ce79596&amp;type=category&amp;id=4363&amp;cu=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ2FyYmFyaW5vLmNvbS9wcm9kdWN0b3Mvbm90ZWJvb2tzLzQzNjM=)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you suggest me to buy? 1 or 2?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52003" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="b1913488-d566-40a5-b3ec-58466a393586" CreationDate="2020-11-04T17:00:30.063" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52014" PostHistoryTypeId="11" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="d31aab99-a5df-4622-8bb3-25934b525be3" CreationDate="2020-11-05T17:20:04.407" UserId="7556" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:7556,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;JMY1000&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="52015" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13751" RevisionGUID="74dba3a9-7f17-4b23-8104-29f03d34efaf" CreationDate="2020-11-05T17:20:24.370" UserId="1410" Comment="added 439 characters in body" Text="A virtual private network (VPN) extends a private network across a public network and enables users to send and receive data across shared or public networks as if their computing devices were directly connected to the private network. Applications running across a VPN may therefore benefit from the functionality, security, and management of the private network. Encryption is a common, although not an inherent, part of a VPN connection" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52016" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13751" RevisionGUID="74dba3a9-7f17-4b23-8104-29f03d34efaf" CreationDate="2020-11-05T17:20:24.370" Comment="Proposed by 1410 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1119" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52019" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13271" RevisionGUID="6c7d4cf5-61e8-488e-805e-865c23ad6d88" CreationDate="2020-11-05T17:22:15.440" UserId="9825" Comment="added 436 characters in body" Text="Adaptive technology is an “add-on” for an existing technology to help disabled individuals access that technology. Examples include Speech recognition software, screen reader apps, high contrast themes, Braille keyboards and printers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Universal Access apps of the GNOME Desktop popular in Linux are another example. See https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Accessibility and https://help.ubuntu.com/stable/ubuntu-help/a11y.html.en ." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52020" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13271" RevisionGUID="6c7d4cf5-61e8-488e-805e-865c23ad6d88" CreationDate="2020-11-05T17:22:15.440" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 203, 7556 edit id of 1079" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52037" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14233" RevisionGUID="d8b9e3db-daaa-4528-94f6-a0b392c0e076" CreationDate="2020-11-07T05:42:02.907" UserId="16601" Text="Tp-link bluetooth 20$, 65ft range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC(UB400).&#xD;&#xA;Support Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP for Desktop, Laptop, Mouse, Keyboard, Printers, Headsets, Speakers, PS4/ Xbox Controllers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52044" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13413" RevisionGUID="a66dd6e8-365d-48d4-9c9d-fb3a47a5479b" CreationDate="2020-11-07T16:02:25.257" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52049" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14175" RevisionGUID="723d2e43-de62-49b9-b0be-899f720b56d3" CreationDate="2020-11-08T12:26:15.997" UserId="16539" Comment="corrected spelling" Text="We use various Dell notebooks at the company and now I would like to buy a docking station for my home office.&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately some of the notebooks only have USB-C, while others have Thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;Also some have a single port meant for a dock and some have two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When I see this right, Dell has the WD19TB (single Thunderbolt) and WD19DC (dual USB-C).&#xD;&#xA;The WD19TB has not enough charging power for the big Dell Precision notebooks.&#xD;&#xA;On the other side, the WD19DC lacks Thunderbolt.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So basically I would need a merge of both and a bunch of USB 3.x downstream ports more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52056" PostHistoryTypeId="10" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="285aac5b-58c8-4424-bc21-99327e62db40" CreationDate="2020-11-09T00:54:55.537" UserId="8" Comment="101" Text="{&quot;OriginalQuestionIds&quot;:[14228],&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="52058" PostHistoryTypeId="37" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="7a59e019-8c14-4943-98c4-d327e926185d" CreationDate="2020-11-09T00:55:02.863" UserId="8" Comment="to https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/14228/laptop-for-viewing-movies-and-getting-acquainted-with-linux" />
  <row Id="52060" PostHistoryTypeId="14" PostId="14194" RevisionGUID="bfb56a2c-a86b-4e9e-be7d-358bb54d0822" CreationDate="2020-11-09T00:55:02.863" UserId="8" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:8,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;ArtOfCode&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="52090" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="27253d61-d493-41ab-bbf9-f33d6ddc4c66" CreationDate="2020-11-10T07:05:10.193" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering installing a Dual Boot.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thats should be it! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recomending the *thinkpad*, but I'm not sure if it will fits my needs and if I am into it with my budget.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52091" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="27253d61-d493-41ab-bbf9-f33d6ddc4c66" CreationDate="2020-11-10T07:05:10.193" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification" Text="Laptop for programming/utility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52096" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14074" RevisionGUID="b5ef9dc5-6590-4c7e-b4cd-1d975114cd79" CreationDate="2020-11-10T15:06:55.757" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52114" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="8995ddf3-1447-432e-a115-eceda0ccbbf1" CreationDate="2020-11-12T07:15:14.847" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification and formatted" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering installing a Dual Boot.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thats should be it! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recommending the *thinkpad*, but i don't know which model will fits my needs best.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52115" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14244" RevisionGUID="26e86dea-dc82-4f48-b107-96429a7189e0" CreationDate="2020-11-12T07:32:04.570" UserId="16613" Text="I have a USB wired keyboard and wireless Mouse with a USB receiver. Almost every USB port I have is used, so I wanted to relieve the ports of some burden by transfering my keyboard and mouse to PS/2 ports. I have ASUS PRIME A320M-K motherboard. I recently purchased cheap USB [female] to PS/2 [male] adapters, only to find out that they're of no use. In the logs, I have seen this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    i8042: PNP: No PS/2 controller found&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I reckon there is no circuit inside those adapters that will actually convert USB signals to PS/2 signals. By the way, I'm not sure what they are good for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for recommendations regarding hardware that will solve the problem by making me able to utilize my PS/2 ports properly, thus freeing up the USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've searched online, and the only thing I could find is rather expensive for such a simple device (~$150).  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52116" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14244" RevisionGUID="26e86dea-dc82-4f48-b107-96429a7189e0" CreationDate="2020-11-12T07:32:04.570" UserId="16613" Text="USB to PS/2 converter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52117" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14244" RevisionGUID="26e86dea-dc82-4f48-b107-96429a7189e0" CreationDate="2020-11-12T07:32:04.570" UserId="16613" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52134" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="259378f1-8405-464a-9f98-556de1fa3ec9" CreationDate="2020-11-15T11:03:40.370" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52139" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14249" RevisionGUID="56bb7805-041b-4e89-b21b-c2d9df6e3214" CreationDate="2020-11-16T08:54:28.863" UserDisplayName="user16630" Text="If you want to all those things that you mentioned above then you should make sure that the laptop has the following specs:&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A Processer with more than 8 cores and speed more than 2 GHz.&lt;br&gt;Intel I7 or I9 10 gen will be good&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A laptop that has 16GB of Random Acces memory.&#xD;&#xA;A laptop that has Nvidia or AMD GPU.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;A &quot;Fast Internet browsing&quot; is depended on ISP, a Laptop can not make the internet fast.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a laptop named &quot;Razer Blade 15&quot;, [Click here to buy in Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If you are interested in those 2 laptops which you have mentioned above then I recommend you to go for 2nd one.&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Ryzen 7 is better than Intel Core i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blade-15-Smallest-i7-8750H/dp/B07D37VBVD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52142" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14249" RevisionGUID="c698c003-50b7-4733-b409-e492d8af3e62" CreationDate="2020-11-16T13:39:53.690" UserId="24" Comment="format, minor grammar" Text="If you want to all those things that you mentioned above then you should make sure that the laptop has the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A processor with more than 8 cores and speed more than 2 GHz. Intel I7 or I9 10 gen will be good.&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop that has 16GB of Random Acces memory.&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop that has Nvidia or AMD GPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A &quot;Fast Internet browsing&quot; depends on the ISP, a laptop can not make the internet fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a laptop named &quot;Razer Blade 15&quot;, [Click here to buy in Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are interested in those 2 laptops which you have mentioned above then I recommend you to go for 2nd one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Ryzen 7 is better than Intel Core i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blade-15-Smallest-i7-8750H/dp/B07D37VBVD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52143" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14249" RevisionGUID="c698c003-50b7-4733-b409-e492d8af3e62" CreationDate="2020-11-16T13:39:53.690" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 16630 edit id of 1145" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52144" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14249" RevisionGUID="0c6aff16-6141-4559-baea-9556e12d41c9" CreationDate="2020-11-16T13:42:03.953" UserDisplayName="user16630" Comment="added 57 characters in body" Text="If you want to all those things that you mentioned above then you should make sure that the laptop has the following specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A processor with more than 8 cores and speed more than 2 GHz. Intel I7 or I9 10 gen will be good.&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop that has 16GB of Random Acces memory.&#xD;&#xA;* A laptop that has Nvidia or AMD GPU.&#xD;&#xA;* A &quot;Fast Internet browsing&quot; depends on the ISP, a laptop can not make the internet fast.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is a laptop named &quot;Razer Blade 15&quot;, which is good for those things you have mentioned above. [Click here to buy from Amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are interested in those 2 laptops which you have mentioned above then I recommend you to go for 2nd one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;AMD Ryzen 7 is better than Intel Core i7.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blade-15-Smallest-i7-8750H/dp/B07D37VBVD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52145" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="ba097f26-46c3-454a-9dfe-dffa9fb16401" CreationDate="2020-11-17T08:11:08.823" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering using a Dual Boot system.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thats should be it! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recommending the *thinkpad*, but i don't know which model will fits my needs best as I'm not involved into hardware as I was before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52146" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="ba097f26-46c3-454a-9dfe-dffa9fb16401" CreationDate="2020-11-17T08:11:08.823" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification" Text="Laptop for programming/utility and getting into Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52178" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="8dbcc80a-b455-4680-94c2-370ce4d71fcd" CreationDate="2020-11-18T19:02:15.420" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52197" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14260" RevisionGUID="0bad1e1a-3b90-4bef-9f1a-3044735d44bf" CreationDate="2020-11-20T20:23:17.510" UserId="16652" Text="I have a MacBook pro which has 2 thunderport 3 ports. It connects to a HDMI monitor via HDMI cable, an ASUS ZenScreen MB16ACM which connects via usb-c. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use the ZenScreen in portrait mode so I can only use the usb-c port, not the usb-a adapter. The other screen is using a usb-c hub to connect to HDMI. So if I use both screens I cannot charge the MacBook. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a MacBook docking station which is able to:&#xD;&#xA;1. charge my MacBook via thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA;2. output video to usb-c screen ZenScreen&#xD;&#xA;3. output video via HDMI&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I only need to connect my MacBook with the station by 1 cable, and the station would output video to both screens?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52198" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14260" RevisionGUID="0bad1e1a-3b90-4bef-9f1a-3044735d44bf" CreationDate="2020-11-20T20:23:17.510" UserId="16652" Text="Recommendation of a usb-c docking station for a MacBook pro, an ASUS Zenscreen MB16ACM and a HDMI monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52199" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14260" RevisionGUID="0bad1e1a-3b90-4bef-9f1a-3044735d44bf" CreationDate="2020-11-20T20:23:17.510" UserId="16652" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52211" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14129" RevisionGUID="7aa0fee0-1203-4ca9-8e2b-14fc3aa14864" CreationDate="2020-11-21T21:07:10.623" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52226" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14266" RevisionGUID="289af537-8fb1-4c58-a5dd-9212b819ed0f" CreationDate="2020-11-22T00:17:18.617" UserId="16657" Text="I'm searching for a tablet with a removable keyboard and a pen to write on it. I want to use it in university where I have to write handwritten notes during lectures and homeworks. I will have to use Linux on it (maybe a Windows Linux dual boot?). It should be relatively modern such that I can use it minimum 7 years. The price range would be maximum 1200 Euro (approximately 1400$). " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52227" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14266" RevisionGUID="289af537-8fb1-4c58-a5dd-9212b819ed0f" CreationDate="2020-11-22T00:17:18.617" UserId="16657" Text="Tablet with removable keyboard for university" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52228" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14266" RevisionGUID="289af537-8fb1-4c58-a5dd-9212b819ed0f" CreationDate="2020-11-22T00:17:18.617" UserId="16657" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;graphics-tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52247" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14271" RevisionGUID="d038e3fc-f4d6-46a6-8eb3-d682c02119e0" CreationDate="2020-11-23T09:18:07.550" UserId="16377" Text="I am currently looking for a cheap windows laptop for browsing the internet, reading emails and some &quot;basic&quot; task, NOTHING FANCY.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This laptop is not for myself, but actually  for a person over 50 years old, who hasn't used the computer soo much in her life. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think that I'll go for some &quot;basic hardware&quot; computer, the only things that matters are those 2: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **The **bigger the display**is, the best it will be**(as he as got some vision problem)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **CHEAP**, For cheap I mean under 500 Euros (something like 300/350 euros it could be great, but I also don't want to buy him a really bad pc as it will be his birthday present)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer to install windows for myself , but also a computer with windows already installed might be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks to all&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52248" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14271" RevisionGUID="d038e3fc-f4d6-46a6-8eb3-d682c02119e0" CreationDate="2020-11-23T09:18:07.550" UserId="16377" Text="Cheap windows Laptop for browsing Internet and utility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52249" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14271" RevisionGUID="d038e3fc-f4d6-46a6-8eb3-d682c02119e0" CreationDate="2020-11-23T09:18:07.550" UserId="16377" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52254" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="417ee862-1824-4825-a23b-ae5bc10ecafa" CreationDate="2020-11-23T12:33:07.440" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer (situated in Italy) with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering using a Dual Boot system.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;Thats should be it! &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recommending the *thinkpad*, but i don't know which model will fits my needs best as I'm not involved into hardware as I was before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52258" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10138" RevisionGUID="9c347277-51c9-4099-a616-510e0126071c" CreationDate="2020-11-24T00:17:54.063" UserId="2059" Comment="==REMOVED== service tag of the laptop, you may still see it in the question's history" Text="I've bought a new, high-performance, laptop&#xD;&#xA;-------------------------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Dell Inspiron 15 Gaming 7577**, some basic specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Model**: The exact model number is 7577-92774&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Service Tag**: *==REMOVED==*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **BIOS**: Upgraded to the latest version (1.6.1)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **CPU**: Intel© Core™ i7-7700HQ - 7th gen. = Kaby Lake&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **RAM**: 16GB single memory stick&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **GPU**: I disabled the integrated in the OS, and have NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 with Max-Q Design and 6GB GDDR5 active&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Network**: The laptop is connected to my router via Cat.6 ethernet cable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **Display**: UHD 3840 x 2160, 15.6 inches&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **System**: Linux Mint 19&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This question is all about storage, current configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **SSD #1**: M.2, NVMe PCI-Express, Toshiba, 512GB, KXG50ZNV512G (original part)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- **SSD #2**: 2.5 inches, SATA III, Samsung, 250GB, 850 EVO (replaced HDD with this temporarily)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;------------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question&#xD;&#xA;-----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In spite of Dell's recommendation, I intend to replace both of these SSD drives. The question is not about if to replace them; it is about what to replace them for. I am an IT guy and use my computer 12 hours a day. I literally go for the best overall value and / or performance if the price limit allows it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price limit for both of these drives should be in total 10000 CZK ~= 385 EUR or 440 USD. I live in the Czech Republic, please take it into account and test in the beginning if the drive you are suggesting is available on our market, you can use for instance this page, which is my favorite: https://www.czc.cz/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The answer with the most upvotes will get realized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Conditions for the answers:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Include suggestion for both of the drives in one answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Formulate the suggestion and structure it well, take your time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. It should include a direct link to https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4. A picture of the drive is welcomed for a better viewer experience.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. You should include a text explaining why that SSD is better for me, e.g. overall value, performance, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----------------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Primary (NVMe) SSD will be used for the Linux system itself and performance-driven applications and games, while the secondary (SATA) SSD will be used for storing stuff like virtual machines, which I don't really need to run at peak performance and other data like thousands of pictures, some videos, etc.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52262" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12736" RevisionGUID="65ddc0ed-b4c3-428d-ae5e-49d4e72fef22" CreationDate="2020-11-24T08:01:40.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52267" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14275" RevisionGUID="556eef30-79a5-4b6f-8991-de3ab7d6b9aa" CreationDate="2020-11-24T11:27:10.867" UserId="5398" Text="I'm looking for a desktop switch/hub/amp/splitter (whatever you want to call it), which ideally outputs to 7.1 surround 3.5mm jacks (the green, orange and black ones - not sure what the official name for this is).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My base use case is that I want to have a second line to my computer speakers so I can plug my laptop in when I'm using that, so as a minimum I need a 2-in, 1-out arrangement. But I'll happily buy something more 'heavy duty' if needed, though I'd prefer it to be not much larger than a desktop headphone amp/DAC or similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, the best I can find is this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Switcher-Passive-Selector-Splitter-Black-RCA-Version/dp/B07CQXRRRV?ref_=ast_sto_dp). This has the 2-in, 1-out arrangement, and I have an RCA to tri-3.5mm adapter for the speakers to handle the output. This isn't ideal though as it will lose the surround sound for the computer which is currently plugged directly in to the speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there will be no surround sound from the laptop (which is fine), so really all I need to do is hook in to the green line with the laptop, but if I could get this in the form of a switch/hub to swap on the fly that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other idea's I've not considered are welcome!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52268" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14275" RevisionGUID="556eef30-79a5-4b6f-8991-de3ab7d6b9aa" CreationDate="2020-11-24T11:27:10.867" UserId="5398" Text="Desktop amp/switcher/splitter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52269" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14275" RevisionGUID="556eef30-79a5-4b6f-8991-de3ab7d6b9aa" CreationDate="2020-11-24T11:27:10.867" UserId="5398" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52273" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14277" RevisionGUID="34e6c56d-ce96-4e04-a275-5f6ae6571d4b" CreationDate="2020-11-24T18:39:53.733" UserId="16673" Text="I'm looking for a monitor for my desk, but I have one mayor restriction. I have only 30 cm of space between the desk and a window. I'm searching a monitor that fit in that height. I have been searching for a monitor with adjustable stand and for ultra-wide monitor with that height but I can't find anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, the monitor should:&#xD;&#xA;- be at least 1080p (I think this shouldn't be a problem nowadays)&#xD;&#xA;- have HDMI connection&#xD;&#xA;- desirable USB-C connection&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I prefer an ultra-wide monitor, so I can put away the laptop, but I don't really care. The most important thing is that it fits into the height I have." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52274" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14277" RevisionGUID="34e6c56d-ce96-4e04-a275-5f6ae6571d4b" CreationDate="2020-11-24T18:39:53.733" UserId="16673" Text="Looking for a monitor to fit in a 30 cm height place" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52275" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14277" RevisionGUID="34e6c56d-ce96-4e04-a275-5f6ae6571d4b" CreationDate="2020-11-24T18:39:53.733" UserId="16673" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52281" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14278" RevisionGUID="a07115d7-3615-406c-933c-40951fe70077" CreationDate="2020-11-25T05:42:07.847" UserId="7556" Text="# Yes, but they're expensive; you may want consider alternatives&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Interfaces and protocols&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To understand why this is kinda a pain, we need to understand what's actually going on when we connect a monitor up to the various ports available to us. I've talked about this [a bit before](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/379930/can-i-connect-a-windows-10-machine-with-usb-c-to-a-thunderbolt-display/379933#379933), but that focused on a slightly different case, so it's worth re-writing here.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### USB-C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;USB-C is a specification for a physical connector type (like USB-A, USB-B, mini USB, and micro USB), not a protocol in itself. While the physical connector does allow/limit what can be carried, it does not in itself specify what *is* carried. USB-C can carry (or not carry) USB data (ranging in speeds from 2.0's 380 Mb/s to 4.0's 40 Gb/s (upcoming)), power, or any one of the display-oriented [&quot;Alternate Modes&quot;](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Alternate_Mode_partner_specifications) (DisplayPort, MHL, HDMI, and confusingly, Thunderbolt Alternate Modes respectively.) **These alternate modes are how most inexpensive USB-C dongles work**, as they allow almost entirely passive operation. Even dongles such as [Anker's 7-in-1](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Upgraded-Delivery-Pixelbook-A83460A2/dp/B07ZVKTP53/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb+c+hub+pass+through+charging&amp;qid=1606271266&amp;sr=8-4) that have separate power passthrough and data ports still use this mode, using a sort of internal USB hub to support the multiple USB devices while directing display functionality to the HDMI port. **As a consequence, the data port on these devices cannot be used to output separately to another display**, as the alternate modes only carry signaling for a single display (more on that later.) While you may be able to get the displays to mirror, they definitely won't act as separate displays.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Thunderbolt&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thunderbolt is... complicated. However, for the purposes of what we're doing, we can focus on a few main things. First, unlike USB, Thunderbolt supports daisy chaining for up to six devices; however, it does not support hubs. Second, although Thunderbolt 3 uses the USB-C port, *it does not use the alternate modes to carry video*, and instead embeds its own DisplayPort stream alongside the &quot;main&quot; PCI-e data stream. As a result, **we can use a Thunderbolt hub with multiple displays.** Unfortunately, the hardware required to support these devices is way, way more expensive; the specialized nature doesn't help costs either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside: [USB 4 is effectively Thunderbolt, but handled by a different standard organization.](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/usb-4-faq,38766.html) Since your particular computer has Thunderbolt, I'll be using the term here, but you can consider them to generally be interchangeable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of options, [I'd recommend either the OWC 14-Port Thunderbolt 3 Dock](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMH6BSY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza), the [Cable Matters Thunderbolt 3 Dock](https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B074G4X7CL/?tag=omnideals-20), or one of [Kensington's various docks](https://www.kensington.com/c/products/device-docking-connectivity-products/laptop-docks-usb-accessories/?srt=newest&amp;flt=1296-thunderbolt%203%2C1296-thunderbolt%203%20%26%20usb-c%2C1296-thunderbolt%203%20%26%20usb-c%20(cross%20platform%20compatibility)%2C1296-thunderbolt%204&amp;rslt=24) (potentially the [SD5300T](https://www.kensington.com/p/products/featured-products/sd5300t-and-sd5350t-thunderbolt-3-40gbps-dual-4k-dock-sd-card-reader-135w-adapter-winmac/), as it's the cheapest and has requires no HDMI adapter.) They're all about $200, and they all fit the basic requirements (charging, HDMI/DP and USB-C video output), so it's just a question of what extra features you want (max power delivery, audio out, number of Thunderbolt ports, number of USB ports, SD connectivity, Ethernet, etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's at this point thought that you might notice that the video outs on these hubs vary a bit—yet they all say they support HDMI, even if they have no physical HDMI port. It's time to talk about...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayPort is a video interface connection and the underlying video carrier for Thunderbolt and most USB-C-only displays. DisplayPort also contains two important features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- [DisplayPort++](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#DisplayPort_dual-mode_(DP++)), where a the output device changes what it's outputting to effectively an HDMI signal, allowing a passive adapter to easily and cheaply convert the signal to HDMI (or DVI.) Sound familiar? This is very similar to how USB-C alternate modes work. Be careful though: they are **not** the same thing, and are not even interoperable. Even though USB-C has a DisplayPort alternate mode, because of the limitations of the physical USB-C connector, the DisplayPort alternate mode does **not** support DisplayPort++. Confusing, right? Let's run through some things to (hopefully) help make sense of this:&#xD;&#xA;  - USB-C non-Thunderbolt → DisplayPort: works (uses DisplayPort alternate mode)&#xD;&#xA;  - USB-C non-Thunderbolt → HDMI: works (uses HDMI alternate mode)&#xD;&#xA;  - USB-C non-Thunderbolt → DisplayPort → HDMI: **does not work**, unless you use an active DisplayPort to HDMI adapter&#xD;&#xA;  - Thunderbolt (any revision) → DisplayPort: works (Thunderbolt contains DisplayPort signal)&#xD;&#xA;  - Thunderbolt (any revision) → DisplayPort → HDMI: works (uses DisplayPort++)&#xD;&#xA;  - Thunderbolt 3 → USB-C → DisplayPort/HDMI: works (uses alternate modes)&#xD;&#xA;- [MST](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multi-Stream_Transport_(MST)), where a single DisplayPort signal can be multiplex to support multiple monitors via use of a hub. However, this feature is **not** supported in macOS, meaning certain hubs like the [HP Thunderbolt 3 G2](https://medium.com/@sebvance/everything-you-need-to-know-about-macbook-pros-and-their-lack-of-displayport-mst-multi-stream-98ce33d64af4) can only use one of their dedicated DisplayPort outs. Note that this is a software limitation, not a hardware one; if you use another OS on your laptop, MST should work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So what does this matter? Well, the first means that any can use a DisplayPort port (including Mini DisplayPort) or Thunderbolt port as an HDMI output; if the dock you want doesn't have HDMI, don't fret. The second means you'll need to be careful choosing, as you'll only have a maximum of two display outputs (one HDMI/DisplayPort/USB-C and one daisy-chained Thunderbolt.) Basically, you'll need at a minimum need 1x USB-C out (for your portable display) + 1x HDMI/DisplayPort out (for you normal display.) Some example configurations that would work:&#xD;&#xA;- 1x Thunderbolt 1/2 out + 1x USB-C out&#xD;&#xA;- 1x Thunderbolt 3 + 1x USB-C, HDMI, or DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;- 1x USB-C + 1x HDMI or DisplayPort&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### [DisplayLink](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayLink)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know you already mentioned that you don't want to use this, and I agree—albeit for different reasons. Still, it's worth going over.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;DisplayLink, unlike the other things mentioned, uses a software solution to push a display signal over a normal USB interface. While this does solve the need to get another dedicated display signal and would allow you to use a cheap adapter like the Anker one linked earlier, DisplayLink comes with some annoying restrictions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. You need a driver, which requires the OS to be up and running correctly as well.&#xD;&#xA;2. The performance, while not awful, isn't good. Lag (in my experience) is very noticeable even in day-to-day use, in the multiple 100ms range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While I'm sure the orientation problem is fixable, these issues are not. As such, I'm going to agree that staying away from DisplayLink—even though the cost is very minimal due to the included solution—is a good idea.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## eGPU?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Sidenote: I'm assuming you have an Intel based MacBook Pro, as Apple Silicon devices currently don't support eGPUs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Given how expensive these Thunderbolt hubs are, there's one other option. Basically, an eGPU is just an external graphics card connected over Thunderbolt. This has some advantages and disadvantages:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Pros: &#xD;&#xA;- More power to increase your performance in graphics-heavy workloads, such as gaming or 3D modeling. &#xD;&#xA;- The ability to connect more displays (as many as your graphics card can support) without the need for MST (which, again, isn't supported on macOS.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cons: &#xD;&#xA;- More expensive (~$150-250 for an enclosure + the cost of your chosen graphics card)&#xD;&#xA;- More power consumption/potentially extra noise, since you're powering a graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, in your particular case, there's an additional complication: the USB-C port on your monitor. Unfortunately, most graphics cards don't have a USB-C port. There are a few cards which implement [VirtualLink](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VirtualLink), a proposed USB-C alternate mode that isn't quite the same as the other standardized Alternate Modes, but from a practical standpoint, is often largely compatible. So far though, the only graphics cards with USB-C ports are select Nvidia RTX 2000 and AMD Radeon RX 6000 cards. Unfortunately, Nvidia cards haven't been compatible with macOS since High Sierra (before the 2000 series debuted), and all RX 6000 series cards are out of stock everywhere due to supply issues. Additionally, the RX 6800, the cheapest compatible card currently available, retails for $579, with scalpers currently asking $850+. Yikes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Still, if you can benefit from the performance and if you're willing to either wait for cheaper cards or pay the price, I'm going to recommend getting an eGPU. Between the increased performance and additional outputs, it offers a much better upgrade path—assuming Apple adds eGPU support for Apple Silicon. Given the limitations though, I understand if that's not your ideal path.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Buy another monitor?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Stupid as it may sound, you can get a pretty reasonable monitor for $200. Unless you have a real love for your ZenScreen, you may be better off getting another monitor—either a desktop one, or a different portable one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of other portable displays, I see two main options: 1. Get another dedicated display that has the option for separate power and data channels (likely USB-C for power and HDMI for data). 2. Get an iPad and use [Sidecar](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT210380) (or, if you want to use an older model, [Duet Display](https://www.duetdisplay.com).) Again, I'm going to dismiss using a DisplayLink monitor for the reasons outlined earlier.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Two cables&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Okay, yeah, this one is *really* dumb. Still though, it'll get you the full performance while costing next to nothing, since all you need is a cheap passive USB-C dongle with HDMI and power passthrough—of which there are tons. Yes, it's not as elegant having one cable go to the ZenScreen and one to everything else, but when faced with the proposition of spending $200, maybe it's an okay trade-off.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Conclusion&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;First, props for reading this whole thing; I know it's a long one, but unfortunately, this stuff is kinda a mess. Unfortunately, the standard are complicated, and everyone made different trade-offs with different goals in mind. What exactly is the right solution for you is going to vary; however, I hope this can at least set you on the right path. If you have any further questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I'll be happy to help more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14279" RevisionGUID="17750caf-0d35-46a0-91bb-db4bbb11dbdf" CreationDate="2020-11-25T06:46:57.917" UserId="7556" Text="LG's [29UM69G-B](https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM69G-B-ultrawide-monitor) and [29UM59A-P](https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM59A-P-ultrawide-monitor) are both 29&quot; 2560x1080 ultrawides with USB-C and HDMI, with the 29UM69G-B apparently being the updated version. It's juusstt over the 30 cm mark at 32.8 cm without the stand; however, it still gets my recommendation as there are no other USB-C equipped ultrawides that are this small. Worst come to worst, you can strip the plastic housing off the monitor, which should hopefully get you a centimeter or two.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In terms of mounting, both monitors support a standard 75x75 VESA mount and weight only 5 kg, which is well supported by almost all monitor arms. Most monitor arms are shorter than the monitor when mounted level with the desk; here's an example of an adjustable arm set to a low position with a small monitor. Notice that the top of the arm is still below the top of the monitor, even though the monitor is below the top of the base (where the desk would be):&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I recommend using [monitorarms.co](https://monitorarms.co) to find an arm that's within your budget and fits your mounting/look preferences. They have a convenient chooser, as well as well-documented specs for a ton of arms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSHEf.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14275" RevisionGUID="d8df920a-507b-43e8-bc3c-82a9849935e2" CreationDate="2020-11-25T14:27:59.023" UserId="5398" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a desktop switch/hub/amp/splitter (whatever you want to call it), which ideally outputs to 7.1 surround 3.5mm jacks (the green, orange and black ones - not sure what the official name for this is).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My base use case is that I want to have a second line to my computer speakers so I can plug my laptop in when I'm using that, so as a minimum I need a 2-in, 1-out arrangement. But I'll happily buy something more 'heavy duty' if needed, though I'd prefer it to be not much larger than a desktop headphone amp/DAC or similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At the moment, the best I can find is this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Switcher-Passive-Selector-Splitter-Black-RCA-Version/dp/B07CQXRRRV?ref_=ast_sto_dp). This has the 2-in, 1-out arrangement, and I have an RCA to tri-3.5mm adapter for the speakers to handle the output. This isn't ideal though as it will lose the surround sound for the computer which is currently plugged directly in to the speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know there will be no surround sound from the laptop (which is fine), so really all I need to do is hook in to the green line with the laptop, but if I could get this in the form of a switch/hub to swap on the fly that would be great.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other ideas I've not considered are welcome!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52295" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="cbe0df3a-f2b7-4e64-9aaf-2a7ffd7a30ce" CreationDate="2020-11-27T13:02:55.270" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52299" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="2501" RevisionGUID="f6ed3faf-a48b-4c99-918c-1dbaa20c6aa8" CreationDate="2020-11-27T23:16:13.593" UserId="531" Comment="added 189 characters in body" Text="Assuming you have the rest of the hardware/don't mind sharing some with your PC a mac mini would probably be the cheapest option. Why? They're roughly about half the price of the Mac laptop models to start with. Exact prices would vary with model and country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Downsides? You'd need to supply your own keyboard/mouse and monitor. Its not as portable as an macbook of any flavour. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Its pretty reasonably priced compared to a comparable NUC class machine. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're also often available refurbished, which may be cheaper. I'd go for a core i5 model over a core 2 model if possible. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As of 2020 and Mac silicon, this makes even more sense, since you can run ios software natively, new Macs will be Arm, not PC based, and there's nothing particularly comparable. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52302" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14285" RevisionGUID="01c53839-df45-48a3-b592-bfd180ccfbb5" CreationDate="2020-11-28T16:13:35.337" UserId="16653" Text="I wanted to know if anyone out there knows of any micro-projectors that I could use in a smart glasses project. I'm going to take some glasses, a raspberry pi, some 3D-printed materials, and (hopefully) a micro projector, and make some smart glasses. Sounds simple enough on paper. I need it to be small enough to fit on the inside of my glasses near the hinge, and project onto the glasses, reflecting the light to my eyes. I'd prefer it to be off of amazon. And it'd be great if it had drivers to install on the raspberry pi to project the desktop, though I'd be fine without. Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52303" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14285" RevisionGUID="01c53839-df45-48a3-b592-bfd180ccfbb5" CreationDate="2020-11-28T16:13:35.337" UserId="16653" Text="Micro projector for smart glasses?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52304" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14285" RevisionGUID="01c53839-df45-48a3-b592-bfd180ccfbb5" CreationDate="2020-11-28T16:13:35.337" UserId="16653" Text="&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;projector&gt;&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14290" RevisionGUID="1476d787-1c38-4d32-bf56-4169a83d5be4" CreationDate="2020-11-30T06:16:15.870" UserId="13572" Text="Some USB devices appear to not support communication over PS/2 adapters very well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Frame challenge:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Use a decent, perhaps actively powered, [USB hub][1], or install a [PCIe USB card][2] to give you more freedom with your USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Tiergrade-Superspeed-Expasion-15-Pin-Connector/dp/B07Z34BJYH/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52341" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10167" RevisionGUID="862361a6-30f1-4b88-b250-3cbd112e77da" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:04:40.503" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52342" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14294" RevisionGUID="893ae65b-4ca1-47bf-bedc-37a5a697fa19" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:21:24.117" UserId="16707" Text="In my job, I need to interact with a lot of different systems and a lot of different USB ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a single USB tool that would guaranty that I would be able to connect two USB ports together, no matter their types or if they're male or female.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Those kinds of USB multi-tools already exist but for **power only** cables (useful for charging your phone).&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any idea where I could find something similar, but with data support?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YvXX.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52343" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14294" RevisionGUID="893ae65b-4ca1-47bf-bedc-37a5a697fa19" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:21:24.117" UserId="16707" Text="Looking for an USB &quot;swiss army knife&quot;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52344" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14294" RevisionGUID="893ae65b-4ca1-47bf-bedc-37a5a697fa19" CreationDate="2020-11-30T16:21:24.117" UserId="16707" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14295" RevisionGUID="f7bdeffc-9605-4805-b4de-53dcddde7733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T18:08:43.943" UserId="24" Text="I am looking for a motherboard, which&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* has AM 3+ CPU socket&#xD;&#xA;* support at least 64GB RAM (128GB is better)&#xD;&#xA;* DDR3 memory modules&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;From 32GB, there is a lot. For 64GB, I found nothing." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52346" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14295" RevisionGUID="f7bdeffc-9605-4805-b4de-53dcddde7733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T18:08:43.943" UserId="24" Text="AM 3+ socket mainboard with at least 64GB DDR3 support" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52347" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14295" RevisionGUID="f7bdeffc-9605-4805-b4de-53dcddde7733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T18:08:43.943" UserId="24" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52362" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14298" RevisionGUID="dd4e272d-bcce-42d5-9aad-64e0acbbeac9" CreationDate="2020-12-01T09:52:54.243" UserId="16705" Text="The environment: Industrial warehouse. 200 custom Arduino ESP32. Router: ASUS RT-AC68U. Access point: Ruckus 9U1-R510-WW00&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Issue: High reconnection rate for the Arduino devices. Initially, we only used the router and had about 100 reconnects per hour with an average reconnection time of 1 minute. By adding the AP we have lowered the time a device spends disconnected. But now we have 2000 reconnects per hour with a reconnection time of 5 seconds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Desired outcome: We would like to set up a network architecture with a stable Wifi connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Further notes: We have solved all software issues, such as ghost connections.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a router that can guarantee a stable connection for 200 devices? If we only use 50 devices, the disconnection/reconnection rate is very close to zero." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52363" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14298" RevisionGUID="dd4e272d-bcce-42d5-9aad-64e0acbbeac9" CreationDate="2020-12-01T09:52:54.243" UserId="16705" Text="High-density IoT solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52364" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14298" RevisionGUID="dd4e272d-bcce-42d5-9aad-64e0acbbeac9" CreationDate="2020-12-01T09:52:54.243" UserId="16705" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52368" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="41d57fcb-af45-413d-8258-629f7c3013bd" CreationDate="2020-12-01T16:02:40.253" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14300" RevisionGUID="40ec4807-080a-4583-a803-67d2414910ab" CreationDate="2020-12-01T21:38:16.420" UserId="16713" Text="The easiest 4k unit was an Acer Laptop quad A4 amd and Intel HD 4800 plugged into external sceptre and went straight to 4k even without the 48 Gbps hdmi cable, very inexpensive it was older unit and power went on it if now would go A10 and the 4800 Intel HD for quality, though using a Sony e series currently, good A4 and HD setup is good inexpensive 4k grapics though, at least quad core and you have to use system config to activate all the cores.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14303" RevisionGUID="43888fed-f2f3-407a-9ef7-c1f84d3c3a43" CreationDate="2020-12-02T09:12:20.113" UserId="16717" Text="If I understand the question properly you are looking for a USB hub wich connects to the computer through Bluetooh instead of using a cable, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case such a thing does not exists because Bluetooth is a very slow protocol and would not be USB compliant, not only because of the speed but because of the lattency, causing devices to disconnect intermitently." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52378" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14303" RevisionGUID="27b84d36-a519-495c-b6c6-d912e4ca0989" CreationDate="2020-12-02T09:18:23.740" UserId="16717" Comment="Info added" Text="If I understand the question properly you are looking for a USB hub wich connects to the computer through Bluetooh instead of using a cable, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case such a thing does not exists because Bluetooth is a very slow protocol and would not be USB compliant, not only because of the speed but because of the lattency, causing devices to disconnect intermitently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it would be easier to a good bluetooth adapter with a bluetooth Keyboard and mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52382" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11475" RevisionGUID="46a1c4a1-4dd4-4fb4-8673-18fc677173fd" CreationDate="2020-12-02T10:03:45.350" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14305" RevisionGUID="bbf39461-8e6c-4993-be43-d8316381dba4" CreationDate="2020-12-02T14:28:23.397" UserId="6085" Text="Does it really exists as for now? I want 3Tb or 4Tb of external storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am searching particularly for a capacious HDD able to store my files and I want it to have fast interface onboard, at least USB3.0 Gen 1 or USB3.1. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far I wasn't able to find it anywhere neither in my region nor globally: the only one I found was [Transcend ESD250C](https://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-987) which is only 960Gb, couple of Seagate models not more than 1Tb, and a suspicious [Lacie brand](https://www.lacie.com/gb/en/products/rugged/), which doesn't seems trustworthy.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any well-known vendors which produce the stuff or it hasn't been developed yet?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52384" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14305" RevisionGUID="bbf39461-8e6c-4993-be43-d8316381dba4" CreationDate="2020-12-02T14:28:23.397" UserId="6085" Text="Large external HDD with USB Type C connector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52385" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14305" RevisionGUID="bbf39461-8e6c-4993-be43-d8316381dba4" CreationDate="2020-12-02T14:28:23.397" UserId="6085" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52397" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14307" RevisionGUID="336477b8-1a58-4fc4-9bf2-1c07cc23802d" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:02:18.900" UserId="16717" Text="You can simply buy an external Hard drive case plus a hard drive of your choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For a 3.5&quot; drive, I've found this two options:&#xD;&#xA;- Unykach UK 35303&#xD;&#xA;- i-Tec MySafe&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, you can attach any 3TB, 4TB or 6TB 3.5&quot; drive you wish.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In case wou want to use a standard USB 3.1 enclosure, you can easily find USB 3.1 to USB C cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A lower capacity solution but faster, and much lighter is to buy a M.2 USB C enclosure (UGREEN, Sabrent, Orico, etc.) plus a M.2 SSD drive (Corsair, Western Digital, Crucial, etc.), like a 4TB Corsair @ 580€, a 2TB WD, Crucial or Corsair, all of them at around 280€). The advantage of this solution is that you have a really light-weight external drive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another alternative would be to have a USB RAID enclosure for 2.5&quot; drives:&#xD;&#xA;LogiLink ua0285 USB 3.0&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, another solution but probably a one you are not interested in (not very portable) is to have a Detached USB Storage (DAS) Raid solution for 3.5&quot; drives like:&#xD;&#xA;- QNAP TR-002&#xD;&#xA;- QNAP TR-004&#xD;&#xA;- TerraMaster D2-310&#xD;&#xA;- TERRAMASTER D5-300C&#xD;&#xA;- Fantec QB-35US3R&#xD;&#xA;- ORICO 9558RU3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52401" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14305" RevisionGUID="cd17ce5f-52ba-4605-a8a8-5d3ce49ec3dd" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:09:36.760" UserId="6085" Comment="edited title" Text="Large external 2.5&quot; HDD with USB Type C connector?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52402" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14309" RevisionGUID="65432c58-4810-4cf5-b470-9ade431f1ce1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:14:53.607" UserId="16725" Text="I'm looking for a router, which has a built-in modem and one can have two wifi networks completely isolated from one another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping to isolate various appliances, e.g. a refrigerator connected to wifi X&#xD;&#xA;should have no way to interact with my personal laptop connected to wifi Y over LAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other major requirement, (which I'm pretty sure I'm not describing well enough) is&#xD;&#xA;that the router support optic fibers as the one provided by my ISP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me know if there is more info I can share.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52403" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14309" RevisionGUID="65432c58-4810-4cf5-b470-9ade431f1ce1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:14:53.607" UserId="16725" Text="A modem router with isolated wifis" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52404" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14309" RevisionGUID="65432c58-4810-4cf5-b470-9ade431f1ce1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T14:14:53.607" UserId="16725" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52405" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14309" RevisionGUID="f2cb5f2c-10d3-44ed-b9ac-a0c3669473ef" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:10:40.847" UserId="16725" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I'm looking for a router, which has a built-in modem one that can have two wifi networks completely isolated from one another.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm hoping to isolate various appliances, e.g. a refrigerator connected to wifi X&#xD;&#xA;should have no way to interact with my personal laptop connected to wifi Y over LAN.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The other major requirement, (which I'm pretty sure I'm not describing well enough) is&#xD;&#xA;that the router support optic fibers as the one provided by my ISP.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Let me know if there is more info I can share.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52406" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14303" RevisionGUID="348d4991-f5e2-4076-8719-b3548fe35fc0" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:41:21.077" UserId="16717" Comment="Fixed typo" Text="If I understand the question properly you are looking for a USB hub wich connects to the computer through Bluetooh instead of using a cable, am I right?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In that case such a thing does not exists because Bluetooth is a very slow protocol and would not be USB compliant, not only because of the speed but because of the lattency, causing devices to disconnect intermitently.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think it would be easier to get a good bluetooth adapter with a bluetooth Keyboard and mouse." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52410" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14311" RevisionGUID="67039f77-d2ce-44c5-a1de-2d0e856b7409" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:59:47.037" UserId="16726" Text="The smartwatch market is absolutely saturated. I have no clue how to tell which products and brands are good or bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Presumably many of the brands are using the same underlying hardware and just providing their own branding and software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a guide anywhere for how to tell what hardware and software platform a given product uses?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a low cost smart watch for my children (7 &amp; 8) who have been admiring my el-cheapo smart watch. They are too young to have a proper phone. However, I notice that many of the smartwatches even the cheap ones support 2G, GPS and SOS calls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A heart monitor     (as in a cheap tracker)&#xD;&#xA;* Games&#xD;&#xA;* Ability change watch faces (standard on all of them).&#xD;&#xA;* Not too chunky.&#xD;&#xA;* Standalone but multiple devices can sync to (ideally the same) tablet easily (e.g. via wifi)&#xD;&#xA;* Cheap (up to £40)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;* Music player &#xD;&#xA;* Camera&#xD;&#xA;* Not advertised as a phone (so they don't think they have one and won't pester us for a SIM)&#xD;&#xA;(If it is a phone with GPS tracker and SOS fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that if you go down the heart monitor route you get a fitness watch.&#xD;&#xA;Down the games route you tend to get something chunkier and the heart monitor if present is not advertised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example from Amazon we have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* INIUPO Kids Smartwatch for Boys Girls Phone Game Smart Watch for kids Children Music Player Camera Alarm Clock Birthday Gift (Black)&#xD;&#xA;* Smooce Kids Smartwatch Phone, Waterproof Smartwatch for Kids with LBS Tracker SOS Voice Chat and Camera Game for 3-12 Years Old Kids Birthday &#xD;&#xA;* Kids Smart Watch Phone - IP67 Waterproof Smartwatch Boys Girls with Touch Screen 5 Games Camera Alarm SOS Call - Phone Watch Digital Wrist Watch for 3-13 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside: My requirements are different as I have a smartphone so actually the watch doesn't need anything the phone can do.&#xD;&#xA;But if it was for me I'd also want:&#xD;&#xA;* wifi&#xD;&#xA;* GPS (in case I leave the phone at home)&#xD;&#xA;* A standard OS (e.g. WearOS or Android) - hackable if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* some onboard storage&#xD;&#xA;* volume and track selection musics controls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52411" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14311" RevisionGUID="67039f77-d2ce-44c5-a1de-2d0e856b7409" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:59:47.037" UserId="16726" Text="kids smartwatch buying guidelines" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52412" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14311" RevisionGUID="67039f77-d2ce-44c5-a1de-2d0e856b7409" CreationDate="2020-12-03T15:59:47.037" UserId="16726" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52413" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12615" RevisionGUID="95c2ca2e-dbe2-431d-8ddc-bbca409f7a6d" CreationDate="2020-12-03T16:02:05.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52414" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14311" RevisionGUID="bbcf5d53-48a3-443f-8909-04ebc1c803ba" CreationDate="2020-12-03T16:33:48.723" UserId="16726" Comment="Link to example of the kind of thing I'm looking for" Text="The smartwatch market is absolutely saturated. I have no clue how to tell which products and brands are good or bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Presumably many of the brands are using the same underlying hardware and just providing their own branding and software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a guide anywhere for how to tell what hardware and software platform a given product uses?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of the kind of thing I'm looking for: &#xD;&#xA; * [Which?](https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/smartwatches) tells me which OS these watches use &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a low cost smart watch for my children (7 &amp; 8) who have been admiring my el-cheapo smart watch. They are too young to have a proper phone. However, I notice that many of the smartwatches even the cheap ones support 2G, GPS and SOS calls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A heart monitor     (as in a cheap tracker)&#xD;&#xA;* Games&#xD;&#xA;* Ability change watch faces (standard on all of them).&#xD;&#xA;* Not too chunky.&#xD;&#xA;* Standalone but multiple devices can sync to (ideally the same) tablet easily (e.g. via wifi)&#xD;&#xA;* Cheap (up to £40)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;* Music player &#xD;&#xA;* Camera&#xD;&#xA;* Not advertised as a phone (so they don't think they have one and won't pester us for a SIM)&#xD;&#xA;(If it is a phone with GPS tracker and SOS fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that if you go down the heart monitor route you get a fitness watch.&#xD;&#xA;Down the games route you tend to get something chunkier and the heart monitor if present is not advertised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example from Amazon we have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* INIUPO Kids Smartwatch for Boys Girls Phone Game Smart Watch for kids Children Music Player Camera Alarm Clock Birthday Gift (Black)&#xD;&#xA;* Smooce Kids Smartwatch Phone, Waterproof Smartwatch for Kids with LBS Tracker SOS Voice Chat and Camera Game for 3-12 Years Old Kids Birthday &#xD;&#xA;* Kids Smart Watch Phone - IP67 Waterproof Smartwatch Boys Girls with Touch Screen 5 Games Camera Alarm SOS Call - Phone Watch Digital Wrist Watch for 3-13 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside: My requirements are different as I have a smartphone so actually the watch doesn't need anything the phone can do.&#xD;&#xA;But if it was for me I'd also want:&#xD;&#xA;* wifi&#xD;&#xA;* GPS (in case I leave the phone at home)&#xD;&#xA;* A standard OS (e.g. WearOS or Android) - hackable if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* some onboard storage&#xD;&#xA;* volume and track selection musics controls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52415" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14312" RevisionGUID="7524c1c6-066e-4e75-bffc-55ee05d4a61e" CreationDate="2020-12-03T19:25:41.520" UserId="13399" Text="I am looking for a Mobile Router Hotspot.  Something similar to like a Netgear Nightawk M1 Mobile Router (MR1100) that is not branded by a carrier like Verizon or ATT or others.  Something I can purchase directly through the manufacturer and place a SIM in it to use in USA and Europe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In fact I really like that Netgear Nighthawk M1 Mobile Router (MR1100), except for the fact that I have to go and change the APN settings every time I change the SIM card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For mobile phones like iPhone, setting up APN is not required.  You just put in the SIM card and everything works.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to write software that sets up the connection based on carrier, but I would need Netgear to give me access to the internals and source code, which is not possible to my knowledge.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone recommend a Mobile Router Hotspot that is similar, but APN settings automatic." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52416" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14312" RevisionGUID="7524c1c6-066e-4e75-bffc-55ee05d4a61e" CreationDate="2020-12-03T19:25:41.520" UserId="13399" Text="Mobile Router with automatic APN setting" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52417" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14312" RevisionGUID="7524c1c6-066e-4e75-bffc-55ee05d4a61e" CreationDate="2020-12-03T19:25:41.520" UserId="13399" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;networking&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52444" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14317" RevisionGUID="fe405961-df3f-42cd-b8f1-2f9f5dc44b00" CreationDate="2020-12-06T03:38:26.733" UserId="16732" Text="I am looking for a headphone for a very specific situation and could use some suggestions. &#xD;&#xA;- First of all, it must have very good noise isolation: not as much for me, but more for those in the same environment, whom I don't want to trouble with whatever I'm hearing. Therefore, I thought of a closed-back headphone.&#xD;&#xA;- Second, I live in a very warm weather, which reaches over 40°C (100°F) in summer, accompanied by high humidity. So, I need the headphones to be as breathable as possible, which kinda goes against my previous point... I have had on-ear headphones before, and found them to be incredibly uncomfortable at these temperatures, due to the contact between the padding and the ear skin, so I think Over-the-ear devices are probably better suited to me.&#xD;&#xA;- Still on the topic of very warm weather, I have heard very good things about velour pads and think they could be a good idea. They seem to diminish sound isolation, but given I am thinking of closed-back devices, I believe the isolation would still be quite good overall.&#xD;&#xA;- I have no need for attached microphones nor for the headphone to be wireless, I am fairly happy being corded to my computer.&#xD;&#xA;- Finally, where I live the diversity of electronics found in stores is not great, and importing them is expensive and difficult. So, the more models are suggested as answer, the greater is the chance I can actually find one of them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I list all my requirements, and their respective motives, since anyone is open to question my deductions and make their own suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. I am very new to the site, using it only sporadically and only as visitor, and it seems to me questions about headphones are not that common: so, if they are not really that welcome, please let me know." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52445" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14317" RevisionGUID="fe405961-df3f-42cd-b8f1-2f9f5dc44b00" CreationDate="2020-12-06T03:38:26.733" UserId="16732" Text="Over-the-ear, closed-back headphones with velour pads" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52446" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14317" RevisionGUID="fe405961-df3f-42cd-b8f1-2f9f5dc44b00" CreationDate="2020-12-06T03:38:26.733" UserId="16732" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52448" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14318" RevisionGUID="107e92da-bfc8-4d71-b7f9-d142dca916e1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T20:41:10.843" UserId="16425" Text="I'm looking for IP camera (one indoor and one outdoor) where the video stream can be displayed in web browser (without additional plugin). I already bought the following:&#xD;&#xA;- [Xiaomi Mi Home Security Camera 360°][1]&#xD;&#xA;- [Foscam C2][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The first one only works with the Xiaomi Mi app, and the second one needs a plugin for working in web browsers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07KCZ1J2V/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1642&amp;creative=6746&amp;creativeASIN=B07KCZ1J2V&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=lucidarme-21&amp;linkId=7dde62e69eaa5d461193935d8efbf257&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B013GJ1QJU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1642&amp;creative=6746&amp;creativeASIN=B013GJ1QJU&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=lucidarme-21&amp;linkId=98845c1249621d4c4892935159f8e843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52449" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14318" RevisionGUID="107e92da-bfc8-4d71-b7f9-d142dca916e1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T20:41:10.843" UserId="16425" Text="IP cameras viewable in web Browser" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52450" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14318" RevisionGUID="107e92da-bfc8-4d71-b7f9-d142dca916e1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T20:41:10.843" UserId="16425" Text="&lt;ip-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52451" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10778" RevisionGUID="4745a21e-ff00-4bce-93ad-acefd1e899d6" CreationDate="2020-12-06T21:03:15.407" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52464" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14323" RevisionGUID="e8218353-053b-46ca-a3ed-fa85f2c7d291" CreationDate="2020-12-07T14:54:34.107" UserId="16736" Text="I can't promise these are what you're looking for, but I've DJ-ed in the Panasonic/Technics range for over a decade now, in decidedly less than ideal environments (i.e. not clubs, if you get my drift), and so, being able to hear what I'm doing, whilst standing directly behind a festival stack going &quot;WHOOMPH! WHOOMPH! WHOOMPH! WHOOMPH!&quot; for a couple or four hours at a stretch requires my cans to isolate very well indeed *and* be comfortable for that length of time!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Whilst I've not had to do so in 40C temperatures, I've found myself in rooms in which, never mind the Niagara Falls of sweat pouring off my face, it was raining communal sweat from the ceiling - so, although I can't say how well they'd hold up where *you* are, they've held their own in some pretty unpleasantly hot rooms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd recommend the Technics RP-DH1200/1250/1250-S range because they're the ones I know, but YMMV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro headphones in the studio, but they're open back, so won't meet your needs. However, they have the 'velour' you're after (which the Technics *don't*). So, whilst I can't vouch for them personally, you might find the similar (but closed) DT 770 Pro model is more what you're looking for than the Panasonic/Technics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One caveat though: given how much I've sweated into my headphones when Di-ing, I wouldn't want to wear velour covered cups under those circumstances myself - they'd very quickly become unpleasant to wear (literally soaking in sweat) and, furthermore, get ruined in no time (which, in the long tun, would probably end up weakening the seal around your ears as well) &lt;/just a heads up&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14324" RevisionGUID="209a604b-10ad-4ae8-ab73-86c2cd295bbb" CreationDate="2020-12-07T15:36:00.633" UserId="16736" Text="Not recommending a specific laptop (at least not at this stage anyway) but a couple of points, nevertheless:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Do not get one with a Broadcom wireless chipset - you won't be getting it to work with Linux without a lot of difficulty (involving NDIS wrappers, if even then). Avoid them like the plague and make sure you get one with an Intel wifi chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I used to be the multiboot king back in the day but, these days, I wouldn't recommend it at all: whichever OS you're running, but most especially if it's Windows, if you get an infection, there's a good chance it'll worm its way in below your OS as a rootkit and subvert every other OS on on your system - and then there's *no* amount of 'more secure than Windows' goodness that you'll derive from Linux. Get a laptop with eSATA or a couple of external (SDD) drives that will boot from a USB port (I've even run a complete Arch setup from a simple USB key as my daily use box) and just plug in whichever one you need/want. (Or you could use the Linux Subsystem in Win10, with the caveat that it's prone to the same risk as a multiboot machine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52466" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14324" RevisionGUID="cbd4f5cf-3d24-4253-8197-b6ad752724d1" CreationDate="2020-12-07T15:44:59.927" UserId="16736" Comment="edited body" Text="Not recommending a specific laptop (at least not at this stage anyway) but a couple of points, nevertheless:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Do not get one with a Broadcom wireless chipset - you won't be getting it to work with Linux without a lot of difficulty (involving NDIS wrappers, if even then). Avoid them like the plague and make sure you get one with an Intel wifi chipset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. I used to be the multiboot king back in the day but, these days, I wouldn't recommend it at all: whichever OS you're running, but most especially if it's Windows, if you get an infection, there's a good chance it'll worm its way in below your OS as a rootkit and subvert every other OS on on your system - and then there's *no* amount of 'more secure than Windows' goodness that you'll derive from Linux. Get a laptop with eSATA or a couple of external (SSD) drives that will boot from a USB port (I've even run a complete Arch setup from a simple USB key as my daily use box) and just plug in whichever one you need/want. (Or you could use the Linux Subsystem in Win10, with the caveat that it's prone to the same risk as a multiboot machine)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52468" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11659" RevisionGUID="6703069c-f806-42eb-9120-9cff3b8b3d84" CreationDate="2020-12-07T16:05:50.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14326" RevisionGUID="67d9f863-fa05-41c4-89ec-3e0003ba8e73" CreationDate="2020-12-07T16:54:03.627" UserId="16736" Text="You'll be lucky to find anything that exactly fits your requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem with the ROM scene, especially Lineage (and, formerly, Cyanogen) is that the developers of the ROMs tend to go for the name brand devices and the higher end ones at that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reasons are varied but principally it boils down to the fact that people who spend a lot of money on a flagship device are the ones who will either have enough money to simply replace it with another expensive one a couple of years later or else don't and, therefore, want to eke the most they can out of the one they buy first.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;People who buy cheaper models either do so because they aren't tech savvy and/or because they aren't rich and, therefore, what they tend to do is get a 24 month contract with a 'free' upgrade at the end of it, if they extend their contract for another 24 months - so, they don't want/need a ROM.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, it tends to be those who aren't rich but are tech savvy who develop ROMs, so that they can have a top end device and make it last a couple or three more years, so that they can spread the cost of it over time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want something that will take a ROM, you're best off going to the developers/maintainers of the ROM you're interested in, seeing what models they support and getting the cheapest one you can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, it depends on why you want it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you just want to play with ROMs as an educational exercise, or you want to use a *specific* ROM, then take my above advice: find the developers/maintainers, see what they support and get the cheapest one you can.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you want to prolong the lifespan of what you've got (or will get) rather than use a ROM specifically  then you have three routes:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. the above mentioned one&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. getting something with an unlockable bootloader and rooting it with Magisk (and possibly microG).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. getting something more expensive but spreading the cost over a number of years, so it works out cheaper over time - the Fairphone (fairphone.com) is an example of that latter, with user replacable parts and continuing OS updates for at least five years (or that's their goal anyway) ... but you could also take a look at the Nokia 2.4 or 3.4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've used Motorola Moto G range devices for years myself because they're good mid-range devices for not too much money (around £239 instead of the £800+ for flagship), have pretty much stock Android and an unlockable bootloader .. but I have to get the most expensive of them (the 'Plus' model) if I want any hope of finding even instructions for rooting them, let alone finding a ROM that will work with them - things have improved vastly with Magisk, but finding ROMs guaranteed to work with them still isn't a *simple* matter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bear in mind re the ROMs that, if what you're trying to do is safely extend the lifespan of your device then it may cost you more than you'd like because you need to go for the ones that the developers put the effort into maintaining security updates for - and those tend to be the more expensive models. So, you might be as well off simply rooting a cheaper device and maintaining it yourself insofar as you can - once the OEM stops releasing security updates, it's down to you to lock it down ... and once the apps are no longer updated by the app developers, no ROM is going to secure them for you anyway." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52471" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14327" RevisionGUID="1eafc52d-072c-4f3f-9627-00477c28573c" CreationDate="2020-12-07T18:25:10.303" UserId="16738" Text="I have slurred speech and a lisp. Also tend to talk fast. People on the phone are having a heard time hearing me. Was looking a solution $100 or less. Do you know of any mics or headphones or attachments that can make my voice easier to understand. This will be on a note 10 phone as I use that for Zoom.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could be Bluetooth or a solid wire if that is better. Would like to be able to make calls on go but if it has to be indoors and not mobile that is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for either product recommendation, features I should look for that meets my solution or devices I should look for.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this is not the right forum please let me know which forum this should be in.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52472" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14327" RevisionGUID="1eafc52d-072c-4f3f-9627-00477c28573c" CreationDate="2020-12-07T18:25:10.303" UserId="16738" Text="Zoom and non zoom best headset or mic for slurred speech and lisp" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52473" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14327" RevisionGUID="1eafc52d-072c-4f3f-9627-00477c28573c" CreationDate="2020-12-07T18:25:10.303" UserId="16738" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52480" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="771" RevisionGUID="0edda7e4-7c5b-4295-8b1f-5bed24a31cef" CreationDate="2020-12-07T23:03:00.327" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14330" RevisionGUID="4a835beb-8023-4184-ba51-119f67adf965" CreationDate="2020-12-08T07:00:51.067" UserId="16741" Text="This might be a bit too fictional but here's the scenario. Task is to store small amount of data (Less than 1Mb) for centuries to come. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Environment specs and possible hazards follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Usually at room temperature, but possible heat/cold spikes. Meaning average is 22°C, with -20°C and 45°C extremes. &#xD;&#xA; - Electromagnetic waves, slight magnetic force, dense radio signals, are included but not too strong.&#xD;&#xA; - Humidity level of the container is 70%&#xD;&#xA; - The storage solution won't be exposed to any brute force&#xD;&#xA; - Atmosphere of the environment is dusty.&#xD;&#xA; - Standard air pressure&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The storage solution is expected to be available after 100 years of dormant rest(will not be connected to an electric circuit, will not be read). In these circumstances, **what is the best storage device to ensure data that is stored will be safe and ready to be read after 100 years ?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*For the sake of experiment, assume that the budget is unlimited or trivial.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Harddisks, SSD's, floppy disks, optical drives and many other are available and can be considered. My bet is harddisk, since logical gates or latches in SSD might be released after a long period of time with no electricity. Meaning the data will be lost or partially corrupted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Every idea counts, thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS. Not certain if this is the right stack site for this question. Couldn't find a one that qualifies better." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52483" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14330" RevisionGUID="4a835beb-8023-4184-ba51-119f67adf965" CreationDate="2020-12-08T07:00:51.067" UserId="16741" Text="Long Time Storage Solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52484" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14330" RevisionGUID="4a835beb-8023-4184-ba51-119f67adf965" CreationDate="2020-12-08T07:00:51.067" UserId="16741" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14331" RevisionGUID="b37aa8ae-7f23-4ef6-b046-94bbd0f67183" CreationDate="2020-12-08T08:02:51.913" UserId="8003" Text="I think generally you should avoid flash storage and magnetic storage devices, because the chips will loose their information over time (e.g. most EEPROMS keep their data for about 10 to 15 years). You got the same problem with magnetic storage devices (although I have some really old 5 1/4&quot; floppies, which work fine until today).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would go with an optical storage medium, for example a simple DVD. Just note, that somebody in 100 years for example has to have the possibility to read the DVD... (that's valid for anything you use. For example, nearly nobody uses VHS or cassettes anymore, or is able to play them)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52500" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14334" RevisionGUID="a27992f2-b13f-4f0b-ae6a-8abf68269962" CreationDate="2020-12-08T14:01:56.457" UserId="16736" Text="Gaming machines do not necessarily make the best option for other work. They tend to have 3D capabilities that can mean 2D rendering suffers ... and, if you're doing pure video (as opposed to animation or VR) work, 2D will be of much greater significance to you than 3D - I go out of my way to avoid anything offering 3D graphics on my A/V devices, because I need fast 2D rendering, not 3D and don't want the extra latency (no matter how little it may be, any is more than none).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;/just a heads up&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14335" RevisionGUID="36182946-76b5-4f79-aec1-cfc7304dbb0c" CreationDate="2020-12-08T14:12:17.360" UserId="16736" Text="Look for a multimedia KVM switch (just as an example:  https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Multimedia-GCS1794-Compliant/dp/B001V9LQ52)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52502" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14336" RevisionGUID="c49784ca-6057-4b4b-ac82-cd02486f5603" CreationDate="2020-12-08T14:51:41.070" UserId="16736" Text="I haven't used it myself but one I've got my eye on with a view to maybe getting a couple of them in the not *too* distant future is the Kingdel NC860 Mini Desktop Computer (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087JCPDZB/ref=twister_B087M15RVB?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have a range of models but a lot of them are dual-core, so watch out for that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As said, I haven't used it myself but pretty much all the models I've looked at get pretty consistently glowing reviews, which is why (having been looking for something of its like for a while now), I'm particularly interested by it (it not only matches my needs by spec but the OEM gets good press as well).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, you might want to look into them and see if one of the models doesn't match *your* criteria too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52503" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1338" RevisionGUID="d1933e4d-f997-48d3-a93a-f1e2b9c800e6" CreationDate="2020-12-08T15:08:21.097" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14337" RevisionGUID="30e6b6c1-82cd-4d06-a9f1-c420e43f297e" CreationDate="2020-12-08T16:41:20.630" UserId="16736" Text="I've got a Logitech K400+ wireless keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It leaves much to be desired, as far as I'm concerned: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. keys too close together for reliable 'touch' typing&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. insufficient travel on the keys - too spongy&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. up/down cursors are too small - too easy to hit SHIFT instead of UP or UP instead of DOWN&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. trackpad very imprecise - too much over/under-shoot when making adjustments to things (faders/knobs/etc.) and scrolling frequently results in jumps (halfway down the page instead of three lines)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've read any number of reviews of various keyboards on Amazon and elsewhere and, whatever the keyboard, if it has a trackpad, just about all of them reach pretty much the same conclusion: the trackpad is unsuited to precise pointer manipulation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I've had an idea: what if I affix a good keyboard to a 'tray' along with a dedicated trackpad - can I get a better result that way?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone make any recommendations, therefore?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They're for use in my studio and will be spending most of their time on my lap, not set down beside me, and will, furthermore, be affixed to some plastic/wood/whatever and take on extra weight as a result, so &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The keyboard needs to&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. not be *too* big and heavy to start with&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. be wireless (wifi dongle rather than Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 3. ideally, have a numeric keypad - but I'll live without this, if necessary&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 4. have better key travel than the K400+&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 5. have more space between the keys than the K400+, without becoming excessively long - 40cm/14&quot; seems reasonable, but I don't want the whole thing (keyboard+trackpad) to exceed 50cm/20&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 6. use AA/AAA batteries rather than be rechargeable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The trackpad needs to be &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. wireless (wifi dongle rather than Bluetooth)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. precise but not a (Microsoft) 'Precision' pad - I don't use (or care about) gesture control, I'm just sick of being able to move faders and knobs to -0.1/+0.1 or -4.3/-4.5 but never exactly 0.0 or -4.4 (you get the idea).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52505" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14337" RevisionGUID="30e6b6c1-82cd-4d06-a9f1-c420e43f297e" CreationDate="2020-12-08T16:41:20.630" UserId="16736" Text="Need Recommendation For Wireless Keyboard + Trackpad" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52506" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14337" RevisionGUID="30e6b6c1-82cd-4d06-a9f1-c420e43f297e" CreationDate="2020-12-08T16:41:20.630" UserId="16736" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;touchpad&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52507" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14338" RevisionGUID="51c8e628-c4cb-4a98-b042-17ae75aa761b" CreationDate="2020-12-09T01:25:27.117" UserId="16736" Text="This is one of the best examples there are of the problem you will face: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BBC_Domesday_Book&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It might be better to ask how you can keep the data alive rather than in suspended animation. Assuming the Internet will still be around that long from now (either as we now know it or in some mutated/evolved form containing everything currently on it as well as new things), then that would be the place to keep it - as long as there is a functional equivalent of the Internet Archive/Wayback Machine, your data will be preserved.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, look into other approaches like storing it in DNA - there's been some interesting (if sometime questionable) research done in this area over the last twenty years or so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you absolutely *must* go for a *static* (and isolated?) preservation then one of the best techniques so far invented consists of carving it onto stone tablets (most such will last well over 100 years, even when subject to weathering), onto metal sheets, or similar. It might be cumbersome and inelegant but, whatever technological changes happen in the meantime, short of an absolute, worldwide Dark Ages of the mind, during which all current knowledge and understanding are lost to us, it's pretty much a given that someone looking at them in the future will see that there's a pattern to be deciphered and pretty quickly work out that your '0' and '1' / '+' and '-' / '.' and '-' symbol set is a binary cipher and go from there. Or you could carve/paint it on walls kept in the dark (like the pyramids in Egypt). Even paper could work under the right conditions (the Dead Sea Scrolls have been around for a while now). Hell, under perfect conditions, you could carve/paint it on the walls of a cave and it could last tens of thousands of years (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_painting)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52510" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14340" RevisionGUID="f72f0c37-b2da-4bd3-9a01-152393c45665" CreationDate="2020-12-09T11:58:09.590" UserId="1801" Text="I would like a decent quality stereo headset which isn't too expensive (&lt;£100) and doesn't cause my ears to over heat.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There are lots of high quality over-ear options, but I find wearing these for any length of time becomes uncomfortable (e.g. Logitech Pro Gaming Headset).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There are lots of cheap on-ear options (&lt;£20), but headphone and microphone quality are difficult to assess, and reviews of specific products are difficult to find - people mainly seem interested in reviewing expensive over-ear headphones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There are lots of cheap mono headsets, which are optimised for voice/video conferencing, but I don't get on with only having sound in one ear.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Similarly, in-ear headsets are not an option, I have several but I don't get on with them for voice/video conferencing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I don't need a 'professional' quality mic, but I would like it to be good enough that people no longer complain about it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I'm happy to consider a single TRRS jack headset, twin TRS jack, USB, or possibly even Bluetooth wireless, but I have a slight preference for TRRS connection and this would work out of the box with more of my devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My current workaday headset is a cheap Trust on-ear TRRS headset, with upgraded pads, but the headphones are very quiet and the microphone rattles, which confuses Zoom, Discord and MS Teams chat and is the cause of the complaints I've been getting.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have an Anker Soundbud Slim in-ear bluetooth headset, and it's great on the move, but I don't get on with it at my desk." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52511" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14340" RevisionGUID="f72f0c37-b2da-4bd3-9a01-152393c45665" CreationDate="2020-12-09T11:58:09.590" UserId="1801" Text="On-ear stereo headset with a decent quality microphone at a reasonable price" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52512" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14340" RevisionGUID="f72f0c37-b2da-4bd3-9a01-152393c45665" CreationDate="2020-12-09T11:58:09.590" UserId="1801" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="9ad371f0-928b-4d09-bfdd-8134e3376d99" CreationDate="2020-12-09T15:56:44.787" UserId="378" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Usable while charging.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because it is bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="9ad371f0-928b-4d09-bfdd-8134e3376d99" CreationDate="2020-12-09T15:56:44.787" UserId="378" Text="Bluetooth keyboard with Mac layout and internal battery charged via USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="9ad371f0-928b-4d09-bfdd-8134e3376d99" CreationDate="2020-12-09T15:56:44.787" UserId="378" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;apple&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;&lt;macos&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52516" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="08c3a29b-261e-46db-b750-51488e38c4ae" CreationDate="2020-12-09T16:04:15.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52517" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="2f94252c-fdfd-473e-9104-3a30c5b52373" CreationDate="2020-12-09T16:07:13.497" UserId="378" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52518" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14342" RevisionGUID="e6a5fcdb-d017-4313-98ed-f092a0db82d4" CreationDate="2020-12-09T16:10:33.867" UserId="378" Text="I want a wireless mouse to use with my MacBook Pro 2018.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA; - Fits large hand.&#xD;&#xA; - Allows at least left-click, right-click, vertical scrolling.&#xD;&#xA; - Real mouse, not a touchpad. Trackpoint would be wonderful if integrated in a keyboard that fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Mouse is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- The AE WISH ANEWISH mouse is not a solution because it uses a micro-USB cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/14341/bluetooth-keyboard-with-mac-layout-and-internal-battery-charged-via-usb-c" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52519" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14342" RevisionGUID="e6a5fcdb-d017-4313-98ed-f092a0db82d4" CreationDate="2020-12-09T16:10:33.867" UserId="378" Text="Mac-compatible Bluetooth mouse with internal battery charged via USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52520" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14342" RevisionGUID="e6a5fcdb-d017-4313-98ed-f092a0db82d4" CreationDate="2020-12-09T16:10:33.867" UserId="378" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;mice&gt;&lt;apple&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;&lt;macos&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52521" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14223" RevisionGUID="523a85de-1a49-42aa-b157-c67870338bdc" CreationDate="2020-12-10T06:23:38.537" UserId="16590" Comment="Updated laptops suggestion" Text="I am looking for a laptop for work and study. This laptop must be able to handle:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Videoconferences e.g. Zoom or Meet&#xD;&#xA;- Use Microsoft Office programs (Word, Excel, PowerPoint)&#xD;&#xA;- Fast Internet browsing&#xD;&#xA;- Programming e.g. Visual Studio Code, GitHub&#xD;&#xA;- Video editing e.g. Camtasia&#xD;&#xA;- Video games (rarely)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am interested in the following 2 laptops because the shop is in my city:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **Notebook Dell Inspiron I3593-7872BLK-PUS Premium 15.6'' Intel Core i7 8 GB DDR4 (USD ~2.214)**&#xD;&#xA;2. **Notebook Asus TUF Gaming FX505DV AMD Ryzen 7 (USD ~2.280)**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps the most recommended is the Asus one because of processor minimum velocity (2.3 GHz instead of 1.3 GHz), but I have never used a gaming computer. I don't know about AMD processors either.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**UPDATE** Nos I hace to decide between these 2 laptops:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3. **Dell Inspiron 5593 i7 10th 32GB Geforce MX230**&#xD;&#xA;4. **MSI Bravo 15 A4DDR Ryzen 7 32GB RX5500M**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In price they are very similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What do you suggest me to buy? 3 or 4?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52525" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14344" RevisionGUID="69074f63-ac57-4682-8dbd-aaa58e9589eb" CreationDate="2020-12-10T17:11:22.167" UserId="14295" Text="I solved it with a combination of the following devices:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Extron SMX 44 USB&#xD;&#xA; - Extron SW4 USB Plus&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price was high but still okay buying used devices.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It turned out the device emulation (keyboard and mouse) is not a problem in my case, it even helped!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52526" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="ac35b6cd-3ddd-42e0-aca1-f0e59ff4becd" CreationDate="2020-12-10T18:02:25.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52527" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14345" RevisionGUID="90875caf-72d6-4fcb-be1f-e4ba9e33d5e7" CreationDate="2020-12-11T08:17:41.140" UserId="527" Text="Please recommend a mobile phone, if any exist, that can run desktop Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any Linux distribution is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;- I'm not too concerned about size, but it should be no larger than the largest Android smartphones (a touch larger is fine, but nothing the size of a hardcover book, please).&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally, at least 1920x1080 resolution, but I'm flexible on that as well.&#xD;&#xA;- Any phone connectivity technology is fine, such as GSM.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3G is required. 4G and/or 5G support are fine, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;- Must support WiFi or Ethernet.  Supporting both is a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;- Any price is acceptable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52528" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14345" RevisionGUID="90875caf-72d6-4fcb-be1f-e4ba9e33d5e7" CreationDate="2020-12-11T08:17:41.140" UserId="527" Text="Are there any mobile phones that can run desktop Linux?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52529" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14345" RevisionGUID="90875caf-72d6-4fcb-be1f-e4ba9e33d5e7" CreationDate="2020-12-11T08:17:41.140" UserId="527" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;mobile-phone&gt;&lt;telephony&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14348" RevisionGUID="12ef8941-82d5-41a2-aa3c-1bd5b06dce9c" CreationDate="2020-12-11T15:44:31.587" UserId="16759" Text="After loving my older Logitechs with good drivers, my newest (920) insists on using the tremendously bad Logitech Capture program to do things like zoom in and out.  That program is simply next to useless, with huge delays and quality issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try as I might, I can't figure out which cameras actually have good drivers that allow me to tilt, pan, zoom, so I thought I'd ask for recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This is for Windows 10&#xD;&#xA; - It needs a USB2 interface&#xD;&#xA; - Needs a microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Needs a tripod screw mount&#xD;&#xA; - Needs good software that allows control of at least Zoom (NOT Logitech Capture!!)&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like it to be between $50-$100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - Braindead easy to use (e.g., restreaming and changing the camera source for an application like Zoom is a non-starter, even if the software worked well, unlike Logitech Capture).  This is because this is for my students to use, and I want them to be able to do it with minimum support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel bad about asking.  So help me, I've been buying hardware for almost 4 decades, I'm pretty good at it, but finding out which drivers cameras use seems to be very difficult.  My home camera (Logitech C270) uses Logitech Webcam Controller, and works fine, but has no tripod thread.  I've been looking for a camera that uses Webcam Controller or HD Webcam controller, but there are cons listed for those apps that not all cameras are compatible, but they don't provide a compatibility list!!!!  My last purchase was a C920 -- beautiful image, but the Capture software is simply unacceptable, and I'm disappointed with the purchase.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14348" RevisionGUID="12ef8941-82d5-41a2-aa3c-1bd5b06dce9c" CreationDate="2020-12-11T15:44:31.587" UserId="16759" Text="Webcam with good driver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14348" RevisionGUID="12ef8941-82d5-41a2-aa3c-1bd5b06dce9c" CreationDate="2020-12-11T15:44:31.587" UserId="16759" Text="&lt;camera&gt;&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52542" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14348" RevisionGUID="ec6e7f60-586c-40f5-bc40-05392797f2e7" CreationDate="2020-12-11T19:47:12.253" UserId="16759" Comment="added 38 characters in body" Text="After loving my older Logitechs with good drivers, my newest (920) insists on using the tremendously bad Logitech Capture program to do things like zoom in and out.  That program is simply next to useless, with huge delays and quality issues.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try as I might, I can't figure out which cameras actually have good drivers that allow me to tilt, pan, zoom, so I thought I'd ask for recommendations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - This is for Windows 10, videoconferencing, likely using Zoom&#xD;&#xA; - It needs a USB2 interface&#xD;&#xA; - Needs a microphone&#xD;&#xA; - Needs a tripod screw mount&#xD;&#xA; - Needs good software that allows control of at least Zoom (NOT Logitech Capture!!)&#xD;&#xA; - I'd like it to be between $50-$100 USD&#xD;&#xA; - Braindead easy to use (e.g., restreaming and changing the camera source for an application like Zoom is a non-starter, even if the software worked well, unlike Logitech Capture).  This is because this is for my students to use, and I want them to be able to do it with minimum support.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I feel bad about asking.  So help me, I've been buying hardware for almost 4 decades, I'm pretty good at it, but finding out which drivers cameras use seems to be very difficult.  My home camera (Logitech C270) uses Logitech Webcam Controller, and works fine, but has no tripod thread.  I've been looking for a camera that uses Webcam Controller or HD Webcam controller, but there are cons listed for those apps that not all cameras are compatible, but they don't provide a compatibility list!!!!  My last purchase was a C920 -- beautiful image, but the Capture software is simply unacceptable, and I'm disappointed with the purchase.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52545" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="14318" RevisionGUID="499a0a4b-8c9a-483f-b365-eadf118358b7" CreationDate="2020-12-12T07:37:15.243" UserId="16425" Comment="103" />
  <row Id="52546" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14349" RevisionGUID="5d0a55bd-00b1-4b33-ab3d-af00c138568b" CreationDate="2020-12-12T10:18:22.213" UserId="16762" Text="Looking for a security system for a holiday rental business in the EU able to have approx 20 window/door sensors (other security devices such as a siren can also be in the package, but I don t necessarily need a keypad as in-app control is enough) and that sends alerts via app and if possible via email/SMS to multiple people (my self and a local staff member).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The holiday apartments are in the same location (radius of approx 30 meters) and are connected on the same WI-FI network (WI-FI signal distributed by multiple antennas).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don t mind buying multiple systems (of the same brand or not) but I am concerned with the fact that they might not work if connected on the same wi-fi or because a single app can't manage multiple systems of the same brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52547" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14349" RevisionGUID="5d0a55bd-00b1-4b33-ab3d-af00c138568b" CreationDate="2020-12-12T10:18:22.213" UserId="16762" Text="Wireless security system for multiple appartments in the EU using the same wi-fi network" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52548" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14349" RevisionGUID="5d0a55bd-00b1-4b33-ab3d-af00c138568b" CreationDate="2020-12-12T10:18:22.213" UserId="16762" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;security&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52549" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14349" RevisionGUID="4669f186-74ea-41fd-944c-72b4cddac102" CreationDate="2020-12-12T10:26:35.753" UserId="16762" Comment="added 44 characters in body" Text="Looking for a security system for a holiday rental business in the EU able to have approx 20 window/door sensors (other security devices such as a siren can also be in the package, but I don t necessarily need a keypad as in-app control is enough) and that sends alerts via app and if possible via email/SMS to multiple people (my self and a local staff member). Ideally No subscription should be required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The holiday apartments are in the same location (radius of approx 30 meters) and are connected on the same WI-FI network (WI-FI signal distributed by multiple antennas).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don t mind buying multiple systems (of the same brand or not) but I am concerned with the fact that they might not work if connected on the same wi-fi or because a single app can't manage multiple systems of the same brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52550" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="8b1c6f27-b0e5-47eb-963b-bb9bd7fe5b60" CreationDate="2020-12-12T11:06:00.690" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52569" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14352" RevisionGUID="c5567a87-9e5c-4217-b74b-3b61a8c6277d" CreationDate="2020-12-13T11:38:17.767" UserId="1873" Text="[Purism Librem 5](https://puri.sm/products/librem-5/) runs a custom distro developed by the company which made the phone, but you can run it on desktop as well, so I believe it qualifies.&#xA;&#xA;As a bonus, recently the open source GPU driver for that chip has [reached performance parity with the closed source one](https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&amp;px=Etnaviv-2020-Driver-Progress), although I am not sure which one is used in the phone." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52570" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14345" RevisionGUID="a47cb24f-68bf-45f8-b15e-ab08e67e1159" CreationDate="2020-12-13T12:10:25.293" UserId="527" Comment="added 176 characters in body" Text="Please recommend a mobile phone, if any exist, that can run desktop Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Any Linux distribution is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;- I'm not too concerned about size, but it should be no larger than the largest Android smartphones (a touch larger is fine, but nothing the size of a hardcover book, please).&#xD;&#xA;- Ideally, at least 720x1440 resolution, but I'm flexible on that as well.&#xD;&#xA;- Any phone connectivity technology is fine, such as GSM.&#xD;&#xA;- At least 3G is required. 4G and/or 5G support are fine, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;- Must support WiFi or Ethernet.  Supporting both is a plus, but not required.&#xD;&#xA;- Any price is acceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: Note that I lowered the preferred minimum resolution to 720x1440, because that is adequate, and it allows the `Purism - Librem 5` recommended by Jan to qualify." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52584" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14355" RevisionGUID="736c9f7d-40f8-466f-83d0-d05b5aa34fe8" CreationDate="2020-12-14T20:30:57.607" UserId="56" Text="We're seriously considering upgrading (read: replacing) a small handful of workstations (desktops) for our department at work. No in-house IT, so I'm asked to do a suggestion myself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The workstations will mainly be used for [EPLAN](https://www.youtube.com/c/eplan/about) (including Pro Panel, 3D) and AutoCAD, which are poorly optimized and primarily running single-threaded. So most of it is fairly straight-forward, except I'm not sure what kind of GPU to put into it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The company behind Eplan suggests a Quadro 600 (don't laugh, it sports a whopping 640 MHz GPU clock) on their website. Which makes little sense, since that card was released 10 years ago and has been end-of-life for quite some time now. I know that specific card is more of a minimum-requirement than an optimal one anyway, so we need more power than that. Probably a little under the range of a GTX 1060, but that's primarily aimed at gaming and a bit expensive (cheapest one currently goes for 225 euros). Perhaps an RX 570? Probably still overkill and I have no experience with that series.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;We don't need to run Crysis at 60 FPS. We need some dedicated RAM, but not that much. We need 1 monitor that draws 3D relatively smooth and 2 others for secondary tasks. Preferably all on DisplayPort, but 2 DP and 1 HDMI will work fine too. Preferably something that's still in production and a good bang-for-your-buck ratio. Perhaps a professional version (with 3 monitor connections) of a GT 1030 makes sense?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My gut tells me we need a base clock speed of 1250 MHz or higher, but I couldn't tell you why if I wanted to.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In short:&#xD;&#xA;- Render 3D for CAD applications&#xD;&#xA;- 3 monitor connections (preferably 3 DP or 2 DP and HDMI, all 3 1920x1080)&#xD;&#xA;- Cheap (at most 150 EUR (180 USD) at today's NLD price, preferably less (under 110 EUR))&#xD;&#xA;- ATI/AMD or nVidia&#xD;&#xA;- Stable drivers (no shenanigans, we'll be using these cards 40 hours a week)&#xD;&#xA;- Outshine by a decent amount, and more modern than a [Quadro 600](https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/quadro-600.c1318)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The rest of the system is still flexible, so there's not many limitations. If it needs PCIe 3.0 x16, I'll get a board that supports it." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52585" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14355" RevisionGUID="736c9f7d-40f8-466f-83d0-d05b5aa34fe8" CreationDate="2020-12-14T20:30:57.607" UserId="56" Text="GPU in new CAD workstation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52586" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14355" RevisionGUID="736c9f7d-40f8-466f-83d0-d05b5aa34fe8" CreationDate="2020-12-14T20:30:57.607" UserId="56" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;3d-display&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52587" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14356" RevisionGUID="7ff03a38-a693-4bce-a98e-99214ae40bcd" CreationDate="2020-12-14T21:30:09.723" UserId="14061" Text="**For a work environment** I would recommend nvidia quadro.  Not the p600 or p620 those are likely to be too small and under perform although they would work and be the cheapest option.  The previous model line goes P1000, P2000, P4000, [P5000], P6000.  With price going from least to most expensive.  I think the current model line right now is RTX but buying the P model ought to save you some money and would perform just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The P2000 is still a thin 1 slot card and does not require supplemental pcie power from the power supply.  I would recommend either this or the P1000.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The P4000 is still a 1 slot card but requires supplemental power so make sure something like that will work in your setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The P6000 is a dual slot card requiring supplemental power, and quite expensive.  I would not get this unless you know you can make use of its performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They would all support up to 4 monitors, the cards only have DP outputs so plan for dp-to-hdmi adapters and whatnot.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There's the ongoing debate of geforce vs quadro, and geforce while you can often get the same performance or better for less money the quadro is business oriented and will provide *stable drivers, no shenanigans,* and may allow specific configuration for 3d render of graphic or CAD software whereas geforce would not.  For business you typically do not worry about the 20% markup or whatever for the quadro line of graphics cards vs the consumer geforce.  Getting a new card less than $180 usd that's not likely to happen.  If you're running on a 19&quot; monitor 1280x1024 then a p620 would probably be ok, but a 27&quot; @ 2560x1440 or better then you'll be wanting a p1000 and a 4k monitor probably a p2000." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52593" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14358" RevisionGUID="ff60dc79-0e4f-4c3d-b9f6-b5f568e2dc6f" CreationDate="2020-12-15T03:42:21.463" UserId="9248" Text="I am looking for a portable monitor with a refresh rate higher than 60 Hz and a resolution of 3840 by 2160. It is easy enough to find each of these features individually, but I have not been able to find them in a single device. A size around 17-18 inches would be ideal,  but 15 or 16 would also be fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any ideas? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52594" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14358" RevisionGUID="ff60dc79-0e4f-4c3d-b9f6-b5f568e2dc6f" CreationDate="2020-12-15T03:42:21.463" UserId="9248" Text="Portable 4k monitor with high refresh rate" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52595" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14358" RevisionGUID="ff60dc79-0e4f-4c3d-b9f6-b5f568e2dc6f" CreationDate="2020-12-15T03:42:21.463" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;portable&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52599" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="8bd1850f-bc5d-4f0e-8d08-002761da0642" CreationDate="2020-12-15T10:00:25.240" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52607" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14349" RevisionGUID="5db4feef-46ba-4d32-b999-9a7b4477c6a9" CreationDate="2020-12-15T12:47:30.500" UserId="16762" Comment="added 31 characters in body" Text="Looking for a security system for a holiday rental business in the EU able to have approx 20 window/door sensors (other security devices such as a siren can also be in the package, but I don t necessarily need a keypad as in-app control is enough) and that sends alerts via app and if possible via email/SMS to multiple people (my self and a local staff member). Ideally No subscription, should be required, except maybe one for the sms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The holiday apartments are in the same location (radius of approx 30 meters) and are connected on the same WI-FI network (WI-FI signal distributed by multiple antennas).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don t mind buying multiple systems (of the same brand or not) but I am concerned with the fact that they might not work if connected on the same wi-fi or because a single app can't manage multiple systems of the same brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14367" RevisionGUID="aa97fb68-1964-467c-9bc1-9474bdf9af42" CreationDate="2020-12-16T08:33:37.780" UserId="7556" Text="## I recommend Logitech's MX Master 3.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Internal battery, with USB-C (and fast charging!)&#xD;&#xA;- Bluetooth and USB dongle support&#xD;&#xA;- Cross-platform support; Bluetooth works on all systems with support for Bluetooth mice. Optional configuration software is supported on macOS and Windows.&#xD;&#xA;- Medium-large&#xD;&#xA;- 7 buttons, vertical and horizontal scroll wheels; vertical scroll wheel supports ratcheted and free-spinning scrolling&#xD;&#xA;- Real mouse ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's quite expensive at an MSRP of $99.99, but both it and it's cousins have been very well received by critics, and frankly, given it's feature set and backing from Logitech, I consider it well-worth it since you mentioned that price isn't a big issue for you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyWeK.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52640" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14368" RevisionGUID="a8348b6b-8e1f-4c66-b42c-fddd01d48d4d" CreationDate="2020-12-16T09:21:57.330" UserId="7556" Text="# [Pick from this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=4,22&amp;sort=-rammax&amp;page=1&amp;D=68719476736,2147483648000)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As @peterh mentioned, 970 and 990 boards (generally) support 64GB of RAM (ignore the ECS boards that list 128 GB, that's incorrect.) Since these boards aren't widely available anymore (due to their age and relatively limited popularity), a specific recommendation is pretty much useless as it's entirely dependent on what you can find on the relatively-volatile used motherboard market.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, given the cost of 16 GB DDR3 UDIMMs, you may find it cheaper to just upgrade your entire platform  (either to one with DDR4 support or with more RAM slots.) Given the age of the FX platform, you'll probably get a nice performance and feature set bump along the way too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14370" RevisionGUID="b0247514-7bc3-4ff9-9cc4-fbfabfc212a0" CreationDate="2020-12-16T15:16:37.190" UserId="16785" Text="looking for a native Linux 4.x kernel supported 4K capable graphics card for occasional graphical console admin work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I share a massive 55&quot; 4K TV between my workstations and savers, and it grates me to work on the servers at 1920x4080 with gnomes 'Kindergarten' sized native text and icons. At 4K the entire output is reasonable and pleasant, but only my workstations have cards capable of driving that.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looking for a recommendation on what to get that I can purchase 2nd hand as cheap as possible from ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price-cutoff point is what I use today for 2x Linux workstations I have - AMD RX 560 at ~$80 from ebay.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping for something much cheaper - $20-$40 range. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52646" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14370" RevisionGUID="b0247514-7bc3-4ff9-9cc4-fbfabfc212a0" CreationDate="2020-12-16T15:16:37.190" UserId="16785" Text="Low Cost, Server, Linux 4.x Graphics card with support for 4k for graphics consolee" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52647" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14370" RevisionGUID="b0247514-7bc3-4ff9-9cc4-fbfabfc212a0" CreationDate="2020-12-16T15:16:37.190" UserId="16785" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14371" RevisionGUID="a974018e-d87d-4345-bb62-249e6b9a7432" CreationDate="2020-12-16T15:17:19.750" UserId="16785" Text="A few seconds after posting I got my answer - AMD R7 250 available from $30 will do the trick." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52663" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10587" RevisionGUID="599e670b-3c75-4ad6-ad5b-336211a849fe" CreationDate="2020-12-17T04:09:20.963" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52668" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14375" RevisionGUID="705c32f5-5bd5-44b6-b056-4c4b26ca2a53" CreationDate="2020-12-17T16:39:03.487" UserId="16787" Text="I picked up a couple SAS HDDs that I would like to place in an external enclosure. However, I am struggling to find any that supports SAS HDDs. Does this exist? Could you please recommend any? I would ideally like that enclosure to support JBOD or RAID 0/1 and have a USB interface. Anything below $200 would be alright. No other constraints (power / size / noise). A simple search did not yield any results." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52669" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14375" RevisionGUID="705c32f5-5bd5-44b6-b056-4c4b26ca2a53" CreationDate="2020-12-17T16:39:03.487" UserId="16787" Text="External Enclosure for 2 SAS HDDs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52670" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14375" RevisionGUID="705c32f5-5bd5-44b6-b056-4c4b26ca2a53" CreationDate="2020-12-17T16:39:03.487" UserId="16787" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;raid&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;&lt;sas&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52680" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9815" RevisionGUID="5d8e68af-f28f-4a4c-b63a-b03249ca318a" CreationDate="2020-12-17T22:04:45.463" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52694" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14380" RevisionGUID="2d2da2a5-702a-4033-bb64-672d6be4450d" CreationDate="2020-12-18T17:42:35.233" UserId="14061" Text="you can just amazon &quot;external sas&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;for example &quot;HighPoint RocketStor 6414S 6Gb/s SAS/SATA 4-Bay Storage Tower Enclosure&quot; for $289.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you are not likely to find anything *economical*, not with SAS.  SAS is server work environment, not for home use.  If you *picked up a couple sas disks* you may want to just cut your losses now if this is for personal use.  You will still need to get something like an SFF-8086 external sas cable  to connect the sas enclosure to your computer, and then you will need an internal pcie SAS [raid] card within your pc- brand new a genuine dell of lsi/avago can run you $1000 depending where you buy it from otherwise you can get lucky finding one for $100 on amazon.  A used Dell PERC H730P for $245 i see on amazon.  But you will need to cobble it all together, and you take your chances.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;you would be better off amazon'ing a **SATA** external where 4+ TB is the norm now and very economical.  Even if you got those sas disk(s) for free, it's not worth it when sata disk prices are as low as they are.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;note: SAS hardware can support sata disks... sata disks can plug into a sas backplane and they make SAS-to-SATA breakout cables.  But a SAS disk cannot plug into a SATA connector.  And be aware there are various SFF-#### cables supporting sas so you have to make sure all your hardware can plug into each other." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52722" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14385" RevisionGUID="636e810b-5b1c-4e0c-bf46-bf49cb543729" CreationDate="2020-12-20T01:54:44.677" UserId="15882" Text="I enjoy a Durgods TKL (K320) with Mx Browns (mentioned above, has bump but no click). I would use in an office but if you are heavy on the keys it may be worth ordering a key tester that has a few kinds and types for you to test the volume and feel. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52724" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="14318" RevisionGUID="20f0179f-255a-4e04-a6cb-0e529be584fa" CreationDate="2020-12-20T09:02:30.307" UserId="-1" Comment="103" />
  <row Id="52731" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14387" RevisionGUID="4e025cfe-a6af-4a24-bfe7-b874367ce4f6" CreationDate="2020-12-20T22:25:20.567" UserId="5449" Text="I'm looking for a budget android phone that only comes with play store, messages, gallery, phone, contacts, settings and maybe a couple other apps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most phones seem to come with unneeded extra apps that take up valuable space on the phone especially on a budget phone. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52732" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14387" RevisionGUID="4e025cfe-a6af-4a24-bfe7-b874367ce4f6" CreationDate="2020-12-20T22:25:20.567" UserId="5449" Text="Android phone that comes with only essential apps?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52733" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14387" RevisionGUID="4e025cfe-a6af-4a24-bfe7-b874367ce4f6" CreationDate="2020-12-20T22:25:20.567" UserId="5449" Text="&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52734" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="5c37057b-07f9-4e09-8ad7-13d39d94d0e0" CreationDate="2020-12-21T01:09:04.690" UserId="378" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine. Either mechanical/chiclet/other is OK. No aesthetic preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52735" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="e4e2f373-89a6-4713-8e70-4fe3f3d05e31" CreationDate="2020-12-21T01:47:08.313" UserId="378" Comment="added 39 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). In particular, the `fn` key needs to be exactly in the lower left. About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine. Either mechanical/chiclet/other is OK. No aesthetic preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52739" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9777" RevisionGUID="5d440946-9a6c-435c-ae90-d016055690e4" CreationDate="2020-12-21T16:04:35.553" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14390" RevisionGUID="3f5071f9-6943-47a4-a9d0-263c52a4b23c" CreationDate="2020-12-21T22:09:02.470" UserId="476" Text="While budget is unspecific, you can get a [Motorola G7 Play](https://www.amazon.com/Moto-G7-Play-Unlocked-Warranty/dp/B07N9MF1Q3), [unlock the bootloader](https://support.motorola.com/us/en/solution/ms87215), root it, and then remove all the apps you don't want. Currently **$120** on Amazon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- 32GB Internal Storage&#xD;&#xA;- 2GB RAM&#xD;&#xA;- 5.7&quot; screen&#xD;&#xA;- [More Specs - GSMArena](https://www.gsmarena.com/motorola_moto_g7_play-9532.php)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVgL3.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52747" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14387" RevisionGUID="b7504821-8ce8-410e-ab39-1fc155d54122" CreationDate="2020-12-21T22:11:09.177" UserId="5449" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for a budget android phone that only comes with play store, messages, gallery, phone, contacts, settings and maybe a couple other apps. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most phones seem to come with unneeded extra apps that take up valuable space on the phone especially on a budget phone. &#xA;&#xA;Edit: I’m looking for phones under $70." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52750" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14391" RevisionGUID="bface15b-fc2c-481c-9079-6a0d7d0d25ec" CreationDate="2020-12-22T20:58:54.260" UserId="16821" Text="I'm working on developing a Inventory / POS Management software. I'm developing this in Python using PyQt5. I've been looking for a Bluetooth Barcode Scanner that works with Python in a Windows 10 environment. Ideally, I'm looking for one that includes a way for me to:&#xD;&#xA;- Check battery life for the scanner,&#xD;&#xA;- Is Bluetooth compatible, &#xD;&#xA;- As well as be able to detect when a scan occurs (if possible, when the button itself is being pressed (not just knowing via the influx of characters representing the barcode scanned)). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking everywhere, but I can't seem to find something that fits the bill. I've seen that the closest seems to be Zebra scanners, but even then, I'm having difficulty ascertaining if it can indeed fulfil those requirements. Are there any Bluetooth Barcode Scanner options out there that can do those?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you for your time and assistance,&lt;br&gt;&#xD;&#xA;Kevin" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52751" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14391" RevisionGUID="bface15b-fc2c-481c-9079-6a0d7d0d25ec" CreationDate="2020-12-22T20:58:54.260" UserId="16821" Text="Bluetooth Barcode Scanner with Python Support (Windows 10)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52752" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14391" RevisionGUID="bface15b-fc2c-481c-9079-6a0d7d0d25ec" CreationDate="2020-12-22T20:58:54.260" UserId="16821" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;barcode-scanner&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52753" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14342" RevisionGUID="a412c0bd-16d9-4eba-9ac3-491356f6a7a0" CreationDate="2020-12-23T01:49:03.080" UserId="378" Comment="added 27 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless mouse to use with my MacBook Pro 2018.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Usable while charging.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA; - Fits large hand.&#xD;&#xA; - Allows at least left-click, right-click, vertical scrolling.&#xD;&#xA; - Real mouse, not a touchpad. Trackpoint would be wonderful if integrated in a keyboard that fits [this question][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Mouse is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- The AE WISH ANEWISH mouse is not a solution because it uses a micro-USB cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/14341/bluetooth-keyboard-with-mac-layout-and-internal-battery-charged-via-usb-c" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52754" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14391" RevisionGUID="bcacae3d-e893-4579-b88d-d6b7c48132c1" CreationDate="2020-12-23T02:57:43.413" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 54 characters in body" Text="I'm working on developing a Inventory / POS Management software. I'm developing this in Python using PyQt5. I've been looking for a Bluetooth Barcode Scanner that works with Python in a Windows 10 environment. Ideally, I'm looking for one that includes a way for me to:&#xD;&#xA;- Check battery life for the scanner,&#xD;&#xA;- Is Bluetooth compatible, &#xD;&#xA;- As well as be able to detect when a scan occurs (if possible, when the button itself is being pressed (not just knowing via the influx of characters representing the barcode scanned)). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've been looking everywhere, but I can't seem to find something that fits the bill. I've seen that the closest seems to be Zebra scanners, but even then, I'm having difficulty ascertaining if it can indeed fulfil those requirements. Are there any Bluetooth Barcode Scanner options out there that can do those?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52756" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="733" RevisionGUID="ac6631c4-d650-4bcd-bb4f-f7fb68c3e1c6" CreationDate="2020-12-23T16:35:44.250" UserId="4495" Comment="broken image fixed (click 'rendered output' or 'side-by-side' to see the difference; image retrieved via Wayback Machine); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="I've been using a [Plantronics Savi 700 Series][3] for the past few years.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][2]  &#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: [plantronics.com](https://www.plantronics.com/images/catalog/product/large/savi_w740.png))&lt;/sub&gt;  &#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Is way over budget** at $400. I got this as a gift through a fortunate series of events. I'm definitely open to other recommendations of cheaper products.&#xD;&#xA; - Connects to my MacBook through USB (the cord goes from the base to the laptop)&#xD;&#xA; - The headset itself is wireless, and has range allowing me to walk around my neighborhood block with minor degradation of sound quality&#xD;&#xA; - Comes with a box full of different ways to affix it to your head - right now I'm using a springy headphone-type holder. &#xD;&#xA; - Has a pretty decent microphone, with decent response time&#xD;&#xA; - Has all-day battery life, if you remember to charge it at night.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My only gripe with it is that sometimes, if I leave it connected for more than a few hours, it starts to 'echo' - slowly turning into a high-pitched whine. I have no idea what this is, but it's easily fixed by turning it off/on again with the buttons on the base.&#xA;&#xA; [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzwTx.png&#xA; [2]: https://web.archive.org/web/20171113210909/http://www.plantronics.com:80/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview&#xA; [3]: https://web.archive.org/web/20171113210909/http://www.plantronics.com:80/us/product/savi-700?skuId=sku5860022#fndtn-overview" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52757" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="733" RevisionGUID="ac6631c4-d650-4bcd-bb4f-f7fb68c3e1c6" CreationDate="2020-12-23T16:35:44.250" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1 edit id of 1147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52758" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14392" RevisionGUID="da0dd9dd-1bb0-4300-ab0a-984e27b3d63c" CreationDate="2020-12-23T19:30:00.540" UserId="16823" Text="I programmed a simple animation that I want to display on a screen at an art show which lasts 10 weeks. I created it in JavaScript and hosted it on a website so it can be run in full screen in a browser. The code gets cached so I don’t need an internet connection. The animation is in black-and-white. The animation repeats every few minutes but is different each time so it can’t be turned into a video. And I want it to stay on continuously so that the art show director doesn’t have to turn it on and off every day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping I could buy a cheap tablet and keep it plugged in, so I bought the DragonTouch Notepad K10 10 inch which runs Android (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dragon-Touch-Notepad-K10-Tablet-10-inch-Android-1280-x-800-2GB-32GB-Refurbished).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This worked well for a couple days (running like 50-60 hours) and then the tablet crashed. The tablet feels fairly warm while plugged in after a while so I suspect that it overheated. But it’s also cheap and refurbished so it may be a lemon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for an alternative? I would like screen size to be at least 9.7 inches, but not too big that it’s difficult to mount to the wall. I would also like to keep cost to under $300. The CPU/RAM requirement is pretty much insignificant because the animation is so simple. The K10 tablet handled that fine. And I’m open to an option other than a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52759" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14392" RevisionGUID="da0dd9dd-1bb0-4300-ab0a-984e27b3d63c" CreationDate="2020-12-23T19:30:00.540" UserId="16823" Text="Screen/computer for displaying dynamic digital art on a wall for a 10-week art show?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52760" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14392" RevisionGUID="da0dd9dd-1bb0-4300-ab0a-984e27b3d63c" CreationDate="2020-12-23T19:30:00.540" UserId="16823" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52761" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11618" RevisionGUID="cc0fab50-de65-48ce-b21e-d1aeb71e036f" CreationDate="2020-12-23T20:03:05.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52762" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14392" RevisionGUID="c0349373-36b3-4d42-95f5-51b118ff7466" CreationDate="2020-12-23T20:09:00.730" UserId="16823" Comment="deleted 27 characters in body" Text="I programmed a simple animation that I want to display on a screen at an art show which lasts 10 weeks. I created it in JavaScript and hosted it on a website so it can be run in full screen in a browser. The code gets cached so I don’t need an internet connection. The animation is in black-and-white. The animation repeats every few minutes but is different each time so it can’t be turned into a video. And I want it to stay on continuously so that the art show director doesn’t have to turn it on and off every day.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was hoping I could buy a cheap tablet and keep it plugged in, so I bought the DragonTouch Notepad K10 10 inch which runs Android (https://www.amazon.com/Dragon-Touch-Storage-Quad-Core-Processor/dp/B07WLNZB78).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This worked well for a couple days (running like 50-60 hours) and then the tablet crashed. The tablet feels fairly warm while plugged in after a while so I suspect that it overheated. But it’s also cheap and refurbished so it may be a lemon.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for an alternative? I would like screen size to be at least 9.7 inches, but not too big that it’s difficult to mount to the wall. I would also like to keep cost to under $300. The CPU/RAM requirement is pretty much insignificant because the animation is so simple. The K10 tablet handled that fine. And I’m open to an option other than a tablet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52763" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14393" RevisionGUID="d649c70f-c239-4109-ad7e-6204b15e4185" CreationDate="2020-12-23T20:19:14.660" UserId="16186" Text="You want a disk that will hold data for centuries?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OK, let me introduce [M-DISC][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unlike other disks, M-DISC data can actually survive up to 1000 years. It looks almost the same as normal CD but it's more glossy.[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/21LY1.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/DgHow.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52767" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="4392" RevisionGUID="fba8f47a-f5d1-45bd-81ad-ebbf2c000fed" CreationDate="2020-12-24T17:33:34.570" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="52774" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="bc21dba1-3300-4496-8e2a-b1305376e908" CreationDate="2020-12-24T20:01:20.110" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52811" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="8068b862-6313-4405-987c-b5814e022be0" CreationDate="2020-12-27T02:22:22.233" UserId="5531" Comment="Mention power delivery for the LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery. Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C + 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + 65Wpower; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P). I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface?&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W power delivery, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52812" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="eeaa0633-91ea-4144-8535-c71cdacaaa6b" CreationDate="2020-12-27T02:28:38.173" UserId="5531" Comment="Link to Dell poor viewing angles review" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52824" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="15c55c6b-ade9-42f8-b98d-f6767ea03103" CreationDate="2020-12-27T18:01:25.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52848" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9486" RevisionGUID="34945836-b0e3-4df1-a522-be66192e1c60" CreationDate="2020-12-29T18:01:35.260" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52850" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14417" RevisionGUID="6bcb45c5-ac98-4ffa-b953-28ba9eb06865" CreationDate="2020-12-29T21:12:35.990" UserId="16860" Text="I've been wanting to get an ultrarugged laptop for a while, because I need certain features that I have on my desktop, but I also want some level of portability for some projects I'm working on. Ideally, I'd want something that has&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - At least one serial port&#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet &#xD;&#xA; - At least a handful of USB ports&#xD;&#xA; - Capable of running a modern Linux distribution&#xD;&#xA; - CD / DVD drive&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care about the screen (resolution, size, etc.), the memory (although I'd prefer 8Gb as a baseline) or even storage space, GPU or CPU really. As long as the device can run a mostly casual load without lagging. The following items would be a nice bonus as well:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - PC card support&#xD;&#xA; - List item&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now the kicker is I'm not looking to may for something new. I understand these are typically for industrial use and can get rather expensive, so I'm certainly not opposed to older product lines. I don't have a real budget set, but I'd like to not spend $5k+ on a device, and would honestly like to keep things below $2k if possible. If I could find one for under $1k that'd be perfect, but I understand it may not be possible." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52851" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14417" RevisionGUID="6bcb45c5-ac98-4ffa-b953-28ba9eb06865" CreationDate="2020-12-29T21:12:35.990" UserId="16860" Text="Recomendatations on affordable secondhand ultrarugged laptop lines?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52852" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14417" RevisionGUID="6bcb45c5-ac98-4ffa-b953-28ba9eb06865" CreationDate="2020-12-29T21:12:35.990" UserId="16860" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52853" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14418" RevisionGUID="a03601f3-703b-4f6d-8e33-2e15f0ceaa4a" CreationDate="2020-12-30T00:07:30.833" UserId="16861" Text="I need a new keyboard. I'd like one for under 75$ that feels like the Apple butterfly keyboards that were found on the 2015-2016 MacBooks. I know that those keyboards were hated and were prone to failure, but I personally thought they felt amazing. I guess what I'm looking for is a USB keyboard that requires little force and had very, very low travel while still feeling good to type on. I don't care about backlight, but I'd prefer if it was wired, unless there is no option for wired. The keyboard does not need to use the butterfly design, I don't care about that. All I want is a keyboard that feels like Apple's butterfly keyboard. It also needs to be Windows compatible. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52854" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14418" RevisionGUID="a03601f3-703b-4f6d-8e33-2e15f0ceaa4a" CreationDate="2020-12-30T00:07:30.833" UserId="16861" Text="I need a new keyboard, and I'd like one that replicates the feel of the failed Apple butterfly keyboards" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52855" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14418" RevisionGUID="a03601f3-703b-4f6d-8e33-2e15f0ceaa4a" CreationDate="2020-12-30T00:07:30.833" UserId="16861" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52856" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14419" RevisionGUID="26ceacec-f562-4208-8ef8-4cc2226c8322" CreationDate="2020-12-30T01:36:12.037" UserId="15976" Text="It might be slightly off, but Cd/DVD is the issue here. the step motors required to run to the um exact is hardly achieved on something that has to survive a lot, it takes too much space. Although most industrial applications do not require watching movies... &#xD;&#xA;If you can part with DVD then you can just look for toughbook on e-bay. As these are used by many armies around the world you can often get one under 1K. &#xD;&#xA;Second point is the distros DE. I have been Running XFCE On mine ancient CF-19 and only replacing it because I have melted battery sitting too close to fire and need more then two screens. (want to go HDMI)  " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14421" RevisionGUID="407871d1-3044-4510-963d-0b29a32837d6" CreationDate="2020-12-30T08:21:36.537" UserId="16840" Text="All I know the external keyboard with USB or wireless never have a butterfly-key design. Because that was exclusively designed for Apple? Dunno but probably because of the patent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The smooth feeling of the laptop keyboard can be replaced by an external keyboard if the keyboard is very cheap.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can search at your local shop that looks like this:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![keyboard][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBTC3.png&#xD;&#xA;But keep in mind because this is usually using only carbon pad switch the quality isn't the same at all.." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52859" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14422" RevisionGUID="89c47f13-28c3-4896-8c64-028383d5ef55" CreationDate="2020-12-30T11:05:34.440" UserId="16863" Text="*I hope that fits in this Exchange as it specifically deals with a hardware problem. That out of the way:*&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;My current TV is working properly except of all the HDMI slots. It’s not changeable and even if it were let’s take it as a condition for the following problem. I want a sort of streaming hub/device (like amazon fire TV stick - in fact I already have one), though using an adapter from HDMI to USB and using it through the USB port of the TV is rather dangerous according to online sources. &#xA;&#xA;Is there any other cheap alternative to either amazon fire TV (which doesn’t use HDMI and still provides a decent quality including services like Netflix, Prime Video, etc.) or is there a safe way to use said stick without the HDMI slots?&#xA;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52860" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14422" RevisionGUID="89c47f13-28c3-4896-8c64-028383d5ef55" CreationDate="2020-12-30T11:05:34.440" UserId="16863" Text="Streaming device without HDMI?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52861" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14422" RevisionGUID="89c47f13-28c3-4896-8c64-028383d5ef55" CreationDate="2020-12-30T11:05:34.440" UserId="16863" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14423" RevisionGUID="651a4a7b-ff51-4515-8348-70f8c103e128" CreationDate="2020-12-30T16:14:19.810" UserId="16840" Text="Using the USB port on TV is OK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is never been dangerous enough although some reason such as:&#xD;&#xA; - Electrical shock (many TV use two-pole plug without ground).&#xD;&#xA; - The power only 0.5A only better TV use a 1A port.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatibility issue.&#xD;&#xA; - This port is not for charging :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The dangerous warning sticking the amazon fire stick to a USB port because people thinking it could be powering the amazon firestick with less adaptor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most side effect of using the USB port on TV for powering the amazon firestick is when the TV is off the power is off too. **This without anything working on amazon is OK**.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**But if amazon firestick is updating the firmware and suddenly you turn off the TV you could brick the amazon firestick.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But if you disable the auto-update it will be working fine. Unless your USB port can't recognize your device :)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52867" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="782bc1d5-15a9-44dc-b094-0599ee199e9d" CreationDate="2020-12-30T21:00:25.037" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52872" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14428" RevisionGUID="7ec5d0cc-5f60-483f-8dce-28fe2d891354" CreationDate="2020-12-31T15:19:06.300" UserId="1862" Text="I am searching a high quality Active-Noise-Canceling headset with have a good microphone and support for Ubuntu 20.02.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I already tried:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bose 700, Bose QC35 ii, Beyerdynammics Lagoon Traveler, Sony wh-1000xm3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But these devices seem to be mostly headphones, not headsets. And there seems to be an issue with the Linux Bluetooth stack. As soon as you turn on the microphone the audio quality gets unusable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since ANC is important for me, I think over-ear devices are better suited for my need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I need silence to concentrate on my work. Several times a day I have a video-call and there I need to solid microphone. The one in my laptop is not suitable, since I type during the conversation and I don't want my client to hear the sound of the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can be a wired or a wireless/bluetooth device. Quality of microphone and noise-canceling are much more important for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I really don't want to switch the between headset and headphones for video-calls. I want one device for both tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am willing to pay up to 400 Euro.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52873" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14428" RevisionGUID="7ec5d0cc-5f60-483f-8dce-28fe2d891354" CreationDate="2020-12-31T15:19:06.300" UserId="1862" Text="ANC Headset with good Microphone for Ubuntu" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52874" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14428" RevisionGUID="7ec5d0cc-5f60-483f-8dce-28fe2d891354" CreationDate="2020-12-31T15:19:06.300" UserId="1862" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52878" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14430" RevisionGUID="443aff02-8f96-4240-9e7e-be1b41da2b8a" CreationDate="2020-12-31T16:22:02.217" UserId="56" Text="This question was asked 1,5 year ago. Since this question still gets views/votes every so often, I'm posting an update as an answer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After looking around for a while and testing the QC35, WH-1000XM3 and others, I decided on the WH-1000XM3. I've used it quite intensively for the past year now and don't regret the decision.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The USB cable it comes with is a bit short, the case opens upside down and the microphone isn't much good for calls, but the sound quality is great and the ANC top of the line. You only need the app if you want to tune the audio and ANC levels, but don't need to *continuously* use the app. The app is not as bad as I feared.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They keep the neighbours and my colleagues out (unless they're shooting carbide like today) and while I used the 3,5mm intensively at the start I've started relying on BT a lot more over the past months. The battery is holding up fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since the WH-1000XM4 came out this summer, the XM3 dropped in price. In my opinion the difference isn't worth the money, but if you like connecting to multiple devices at the same time a lot you may want to go for that anyway. The XM3 only connects to 1 device at a time (most of the time). They stay on your head just fine when hiking and even running (watch out in traffic! Really, unless you consciously look for it you'll miss it easily with these on), but don't wear them while driving a car unless you tone the ANC way down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And, again, the ANC is truly out of this world. Call it confirmation bias, but I like them. A lot. Sorry." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52882" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12624" RevisionGUID="1e329802-4397-47c2-bfae-c504f3ab1bf7" CreationDate="2021-01-01T01:00:50.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52952" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14440" RevisionGUID="1bcfb34d-1376-4489-b513-a8936fda109d" CreationDate="2021-01-02T21:25:01.240" UserId="1776" Text="I need a USB-C splitter to connect my power adapter and an external SSD drive to my laptop, which has a single USB-C port, used for power input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**To the moderators** - This is the copy of a previous post which has been canceled because &quot;off-topic&quot;. I am looking around for a USB-C splitter to buy, and not asking to troubleshoot hardware or technical support for hardware. What follow are technical details about what I need and what I found on the market so far. Please, let me know if this is good enough or if I need other changes to comply with this forum requirements. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I could find so far are products which are designed for mobile phones (e.g. Belkin USB-C Splitter), which do not support the power requirements and bandwidth I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you cannot get data from two USB-C inputs and make them flow into a signle USB-C output, but this is true only if the sum of the input data flows is larger than what the interface can handle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So why can't I connect a power adapter (no data to transmit) and an SSD?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And why can't I connect two SSDs, which most of the time will not need to transfer data simultaneously?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know you can connect devices with a serial topology, but you can do it only if the devices have two USB-C ports, which is rare." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52953" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14440" RevisionGUID="1bcfb34d-1376-4489-b513-a8936fda109d" CreationDate="2021-01-02T21:25:01.240" UserId="1776" Text="Why do proper USB-C splitters not exist? [RETRY]" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52954" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14440" RevisionGUID="1bcfb34d-1376-4489-b513-a8936fda109d" CreationDate="2021-01-02T21:25:01.240" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;splitters&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52958" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="749404b6-0b3d-4909-839d-91c8c1956b79" CreationDate="2021-01-03T02:48:46.910" UserId="378" Comment="added 74 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). In particular, the `fn` key needs to be exactly in the lower left. About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine. Either mechanical/chiclet/other is OK. No aesthetic preferences.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything. Adapters are not a solution because they are unaesthetic and easily lost.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52959" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12829" RevisionGUID="e9455774-a98a-4cc3-96fd-ce0a48412be6" CreationDate="2021-01-03T03:01:00.090" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="52960" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14341" RevisionGUID="313f4dc8-d4d3-4876-8d1e-15c99c82f34d" CreationDate="2021-01-03T03:08:22.743" UserId="378" Comment="added 68 characters in body" Text="I want a wireless keyboard to use when my MacBook Pro 2018 is on a laptop stand.  &#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Same layout and size as MacBook Pro's keyboard (pic below). In particular, the `fn` key needs to be exactly in the lower left. About 30 centimeters wide, no numeric pad.&#xD;&#xA; - Internal battery.&#xD;&#xA; - Rechargeable by USB-C.&#xD;&#xA; - Bluetooth.&#xD;&#xA; - Compatible with current macOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any price is fine. Either mechanical/chiclet/other is OK. No color/material/key-shape preferences as long as it is usable to type at normal/high speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Non-solutions:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Apple's Magic Keyboard is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.&#xD;&#xA;- Penclic KB3 is not a solution because its FN and CTRL keys are inverted. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;QA:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- *Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything. Adapters are not a solution because they are unaesthetic and easily lost.*  &#xD;&#xA;- *Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzylP.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="52965" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14444" RevisionGUID="601c7669-206d-4c61-bd3e-e3f1061a0164" CreationDate="2021-01-03T08:39:53.147" UserId="16840" Text="There is no USB-C splitter come out this year because there is not single produced chipset for USB-C Splitter/Hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And if your laptop using USB-C for charging input there, the data pin is locked automatically because it was for reading voltage and making it to lock the pin for setting data input or voltage input in charging mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Explanation in USB-C pin:[![Click here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;From:[medium.com][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The CC2 port basically detecting the port whether it is for charging input or drawing power from it for the OTG/connected device.. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can try to draw and connect the USB2.0 interface but I will not do it while charging :) is too risky for precious SSD. Use a cheap USB 2.0 Flashdisk if it works then you can do it for your SSD but your SSD will be downgraded to USB 2.0 Speed. for using 2.0 interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: the risk worth your laptop or SSD. choose wisely :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDNSf.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://medium.com/@leung.benson/usb-type-c-s-configuration-channel-31e08047677d" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53000" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14440" RevisionGUID="5a9c0e7c-e526-4256-9f4e-35d4de9509b3" CreationDate="2021-01-04T12:08:53.743" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 183 characters in body" Text="I need a USB-C splitter to connect my power adapter and an external SSD drive to my laptop, which has a single USB-C port, used for power input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;**To the moderators** - This is the copy of a previous post which has been canceled because &quot;off-topic&quot;. I am looking around for a USB-C splitter to buy, and not asking to troubleshoot hardware or technical support for hardware. What follow are technical details about what I need and what I found on the market so far. Please, let me know if this is good enough or if I need other changes to comply with this forum requirements. Thank you.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;---&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I could find so far are products which are designed for mobile phones (e.g. Belkin USB-C Splitter), which do not support the power requirements and bandwidth I need.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I understand you cannot get data from two USB-C inputs and make them flow into a signle USB-C output, but this is true only if the sum of the input data flows is larger than what the interface can handle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I know you can connect devices with a serial topology, but you can do it only if the devices have two USB-C ports, which is rare." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53036" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14458" RevisionGUID="45de1241-a003-4736-907f-4440767606f6" CreationDate="2021-01-05T08:47:24.690" UserId="6721" Text="I chose Fractal Design Define XL R2, the drive caddies have correct mounting holes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53045" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="e4788460-4f5a-4fa8-84b4-fd3984d41727" CreationDate="2021-01-05T13:33:17.143" UserId="4495" Comment="broken images fixed (click 'rendered output' or 'side-by-side' to see the difference); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="A lot of Chinese tablets (and probably some others as well) use a [barrel connector](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector) instead of microUSB to charge. They all [seem to use](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector#Listing_of_DC_coaxial_connectors) the standard size of 2.5 mm OD (outside diameter) and 0.8 mm ID (inside diameter).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just bought a used Chinese tablet (a [Pipo P1][3] to be exact) whose previous owner says the battery no longer charges when plugged in. After reading [this][4] and [this][5], and finding out how much noise is output by cheap Chinese chargers, I’m looking to buy a charger with some actual quality behind it so I don’t destroy the tablet even more (I’m somewhat confident the issue of the battery not charging anymore was caused by the power adapter it came with… in fact, I already experienced something similar myself when I used a cheap Chinese power adapter to charge a laptop for a few months).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here are some pictures of the port on the tablet as well as the power adapter it came with showing its specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A cropped image showing the label on the power adapter that came with the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;[![Power Supply’s Label][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The contents of the label transcribed:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;型号：KZ0902500C&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输入：100－240V〜50／60Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;　　　0.5AMAX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;输出：9V ⎓ 2500mA&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*where 型号 = Model, 输入 = Input, and 输出 = Output*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*(The character between '9V' and '2500mA' is [U+2393 DIRECT CURRENT SYMBOL FORM TWO][6]. If you can’t see it, it means you don’t have a font installed containing a glyph for that codepoint. If that’s the case, I recommend installing a font like [Everson Mono][7], [STIXGeneral][8], or [Symbola](http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/), which does contain a glyph for it).*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;An image showing the DC 9V port on the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;[![DC 9V Port on Tablet][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;And [here’s](http://f.cl.ly/items/2W2P2n3L0W2i1w3H0D1w/pipo%20p1%20power%20supply.png) an image showing the entire power adapter (might not want to click on that link though… it’s an uncropped 20 MB picture of the power adapter that came with the tablet that I only bothered uploading since you can also see the barrel connector).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At first, I thought I could just use one of the genuine Apple 12 W USB Power Adapters that I already own, by buying a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like [this][9] one. But then I realized there might be a few issues with going that route. The first issue would be that I would have no idea what [AWG](https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/39066/usb-cables-why-are-some-of-them-bad-for-raspberry-pi) the cable would be (buyers of that product have said that the cable they received didn’t have the same AWG as the one shown in the picture). In addition to that, the specs of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter I have will pose a problem with using it to charge the tablet:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Input: 100-240 V〜 0.5 A  50-60 Hz&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Output: 5.2 V ⎓ 2.4 A&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Specifically, the output voltage of the Apple 12 W USB Power Adapter is only 5.2 V, while the voltage the tablet requires is 9 V. From what I’ve read, supplying an incorrect voltage is [a *very* bad idea](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings). The current supplied by the Apple adapter is also less than the current supplied by the adapter that came with the tablet (2.4 A vs. 2.5 A). Of course, the tablet might not actually draw an entire 2.5 A, but since I don’t know how much it draws for sure, it’s probably better to be safe than sorry.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This leaves me with two options:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. I can buy a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector to USB connector cable like the one I linked to (despite not specifying the AWG of the cable, it seems like others have gotten it to charge their tablets fine, so it may be good enough), which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a USB power adapter that supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;or&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2. Buy a power adapter that already has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end, which would then make my question: **are there any reputable (non-'no name' brands) that sell a power adapter that has a 2.5 mm OD / 0.8 mm ID barrel connector on the other end of the cord and supplies an output voltage of 9 V (DC) and an output current of 2.5 A?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #1, I’ve searched around quite a bit, but the closest I could find were these USB power adapters from Anker: the [A2130111][10], [A2010111][11], and [A2132121][12], but they only provide an output voltage of 9 V with an output current of 2 A.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Regarding option #2, I’ve searched extensively on that front as well, but have still come up short. Places like [Farnell][13] and [Digi-Key][14] don’t seem to have anything matching those requirements. The best I was able to find was [S-9V0-2A5-U30](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/detail.php?ID=365) from Condor Electronics. It seems perfect; they even let you configure the type of [barrel connector](http://condorelectronics.net/catalog/table.php?subcat=30) for them to put on it! That’s where the issue lies though, as the closest thing they have to one with an OD of 2.5 mm and an ID of 0.8 mm are their two EIAJ-1 barrel connectors ([one](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725.pdf) with OD of 2.35 and ID of 0.7 and the [other](http://condorelectronics.net/pdf/0.725-HP.pdf) with OD of 2.45±0.05 and ID of 0.7), which might be good enough size-wise, except that the rated voltage and current of an EIAJ-01 connector is [too low](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector) (0–3.15 V and 2 A). Of course, that’s also ignoring that the only reason Condor Electronics even lets you customize the barrel connector on the adapter at all is because you have to buy 100 pcs. at a time…&#xA;&#xA; [1]: https://web.archive.org/web/20210103203431/http://f.cl.ly/items/3o1D1U2q293Y1x3Z3f2y/power%20supply%20label.png&#xA; [2]: https://web.archive.org/web/20210103203443/http://f.cl.ly/items/3S3H032k1A1X3Y3L1n3B/DC%209V%20port.png&#xA; [3]: https://www.dx.com/p/337585&#xA; [4]: https://www.righto.com/2014/05/a-look-inside-ipad-chargers-pricey.html&#xA; [5]: https://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html&#xA; [6]: https://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2393/index.htm&#xA; [7]: https://www.evertype.com/emono/&#xA; [8]: https://www.stixfonts.org/&#xA; [9]: https://www.dx.com/p/usb-male-to-30-pin-male-data-charging-cable-for-samsung-galaxy-note-10-1-gt-n8000-200cm-2018800.html&#xA; [10]: https://www.anker.com/products/A2130111&#xA; [11]: https://www.anker.com/products/A2010111&#xA; [12]: https://www.anker.com/products/A2132121&#xA; [13]: https://www.farnell.com/&#xA; [14]: https://www.digikey.com/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53046" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="1522" RevisionGUID="e4788460-4f5a-4fa8-84b4-fd3984d41727" CreationDate="2021-01-05T13:33:17.143" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 1221 edit id of 1150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53047" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="328d6d1f-56e8-4c61-b678-4cebfbd995d6" CreationDate="2021-01-05T14:06:45.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53051" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14460" RevisionGUID="012cc41c-4058-4db6-8d67-c41df4aca54d" CreationDate="2021-01-05T15:39:34.353" UserId="14139" Text="I'm using the adapter that you see below to attach a VGA monitor to my smartphone and I see on the monitor what I see on my smartphone (samsung note 3) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;now,what I want to do is to find the working hub / adapter to attach also a keyboard and a mouse to use with the phone. I want to do these tasks simultaneously :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. using my old VGA monitor instead of watching on the phone screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. using mouse and keyboard at the same time&#xD;&#xA; 3. keep powered on 1 and 2 while I'm using them&#xD;&#xA; 4. power on the hub adapter with an external power source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some research I found this adapter and I bought it :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.it/Adaptor-TUSITA-Charging-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B078M3Z84Z/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it works only if I attach the micro usb connector directly to the android phone. If I connect the micro usb connector to the vga adapter and the otg cable to the USB port of my pc and on the USB ports of the hub I attach a mouse and a keyboard,the VGA monitor works,but I can't use any USB devices because I see that they aren't reached by the power. Do you know the reason ? And do you know what's the working hub that I can buy ? Don't tell me to make soldering. I'm not able. Below you can see how I have attached the cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTlxF.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRhwH.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMwJ0.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53052" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14460" RevisionGUID="012cc41c-4058-4db6-8d67-c41df4aca54d" CreationDate="2021-01-05T15:39:34.353" UserId="14139" Text="I'm looking for the right hub / adapter which can work with my vga to smartphone cable and some other USB devices like mouse and keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53053" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14460" RevisionGUID="012cc41c-4058-4db6-8d67-c41df4aca54d" CreationDate="2021-01-05T15:39:34.353" UserId="14139" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53054" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14460" RevisionGUID="8bf34f6c-aaca-4a08-82b8-9991b1dfe819" CreationDate="2021-01-06T19:07:02.837" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 309 characters in body" Text="I'm using the adapter that you see below to attach a VGA monitor to my smartphone and I see on the monitor what I see on my smartphone (samsung note 3) :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;now,what I want to do is to find the working hub / adapter to attach also a keyboard and a mouse to use with the phone. I want to do these tasks simultaneously :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. using my old VGA monitor instead of watching on the phone screen&#xD;&#xA; 2. using mouse and keyboard at the same time&#xD;&#xA; 3. keep powered on 1 and 2 while I'm using them&#xD;&#xA; 4. power on the hub adapter with an external power source&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;After some research I found this adapter and I bought it :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.it/Adaptor-TUSITA-Charging-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B078M3Z84Z/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;it works only if I attach the micro usb connector directly to the android phone. If I connect the micro usb connector to the vga adapter and the otg cable to the USB port of my pc and on the USB ports of the hub I attach a mouse and a keyboard,the VGA monitor works,but I can't use any USB devices because I see that they aren't reached by the power.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTlxF.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53058" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14462" RevisionGUID="631b30f1-e62b-45c5-ae4e-7897b3a1ceb2" CreationDate="2021-01-07T00:38:02.580" UserId="12769" Text="These are my requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The machine is going to be my main computer, but **gaming** is the most strenuous activity I'm going to be doing with it.&#xD;&#xA;* Within gaming, the most strenuous programs I'm going to be running are [***Grand Theft Auto 5***][1] and emulators such as the Playstation 2 emulator [PCSX2][2]. I want it to be able to run GTA-5 comfortably.&#xD;&#xA;* The machine can be **either a desktop or a laptop**, whichever is more economical.&#xD;&#xA;* I intend to configure the machine to **dual boot** Windows (for the games that require it) and Linux (for everything else).&#xD;&#xA;* My financial resources are limited. I want to spend as little in excess of **£500** as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If the reference to pounds sterling above didn't make it obvious, **I live in the UK**. I may not be able to purchase products from North America, for example, or such products might be much more expensive for me than they would be for someone in, say, Florida.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://store.steampowered.com/app/271590/Grand_Theft_Auto_V/&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://pcsx2.net/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53059" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14462" RevisionGUID="631b30f1-e62b-45c5-ae4e-7897b3a1ceb2" CreationDate="2021-01-07T00:38:02.580" UserId="12769" Text="A cheap gaming laptop or desktop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53060" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14462" RevisionGUID="631b30f1-e62b-45c5-ae4e-7897b3a1ceb2" CreationDate="2021-01-07T00:38:02.580" UserId="12769" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;cheap&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53065" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9685" RevisionGUID="c28ad5b5-17a2-4855-897d-8ffa1d1c357f" CreationDate="2021-01-07T02:06:05.640" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53075" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14465" RevisionGUID="19d96de2-5994-4df8-a043-c9c14d80d02d" CreationDate="2021-01-08T13:35:19.260" UserId="16840" Text="Explanation&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The IC / microcontroller in your VGA adapter couldn't simultaneously convert the signal from USB to VGA (display) and providing a USB hub.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is plenty of reason for that part :&#xD;&#xA; - The signal of USB data and VGA signal is different you can only choose either one of them.&#xD;&#xA; - The USB port only for the external device when the VGA is OFF, meaning the signal will switch back to USB data.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**VGA signal:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![VGA signal][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB signal:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![USB signal][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;See the difference?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Source:&#xD;&#xA;- [MIT.edu][3]&#xD;&#xA;- [Wikipedia][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsssc.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/t4jHz.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: http://web.mit.edu/6.111/www/labkit/vga.shtml&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Communications)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53076" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14466" RevisionGUID="f82b0eb5-11ed-494a-bf5a-b4c6abb44014" CreationDate="2021-01-09T00:00:33.570" UserId="16930" Text="Do you guy know tough smartphones for industrial and construction workers that support LineageOS?&#xD;&#xA;Something like:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://blog.puls.com/most-durable-phones&#xD;&#xA; -   LineageOS 16 or 17 support.&#xD;&#xA; - Durable and waterproof would be nice.&#xD;&#xA; - 5.5in screen or more." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53077" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14466" RevisionGUID="f82b0eb5-11ed-494a-bf5a-b4c6abb44014" CreationDate="2021-01-09T00:00:33.570" UserId="16930" Text="Rugged/tough smartphones that support LineageOS?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53078" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14466" RevisionGUID="f82b0eb5-11ed-494a-bf5a-b4c6abb44014" CreationDate="2021-01-09T00:00:33.570" UserId="16930" Text="&lt;smartphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53117" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14473" RevisionGUID="8a7213b2-b23d-4755-bacc-1ad4a55e688b" CreationDate="2021-01-11T14:34:19.183" UserId="10307" Text="I am looking for _an **active**_ USB 3.2 Gen 1 -- or preferably Gen 2 -- hub which comes with at least **ten** usable **ports**, half of which should be USB-C sockets and the other half of which should be USB-A sockets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer for the uplink to be USB-C based. From my cursory research on the topic this may even be a technical requirement, but I wasn't a 100% clear when I finished researching this topic.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No need for the various &quot;standards&quot; for quick charging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS: to my knowledge, I do have two USB-C uplink ports built into my PC." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53118" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14473" RevisionGUID="8a7213b2-b23d-4755-bacc-1ad4a55e688b" CreationDate="2021-01-11T14:34:19.183" UserId="10307" Text="Looking for an active USB 3.2 Gen 1 (or 2) hub with at least 10 ports, half of which are USB-A and USB-C respectively" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53119" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14473" RevisionGUID="8a7213b2-b23d-4755-bacc-1ad4a55e688b" CreationDate="2021-01-11T14:34:19.183" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53127" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="68f062ea-e8c1-48d9-90b3-8a0e141276e1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T08:28:17.717" UserId="4495" Comment="broken image fixed (click 'rendered output' or 'side-by-side' to see the difference; image retrieved via Wayback Machine); for more info, see https://gist.github.com/Glorfindel83/9d954d34385d2ac2597bbe864466259f" Text="I am searching for a **long lasting** Bluetooth &quot;cable&quot; which:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* battery lasts at least 8 hours (assume a ~36 ohm in-ear headphone),&#xD;&#xA;* supports for current audio codecs like LDAC, aptX, ...,&#xD;&#xA;* high quality headphone amplifier and,&#xD;&#xA;* bonus, does support Bluetooth Low energy (BLE).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There is for example the [RMCE-BT2][2]. I wonder if there are better and cheaper products than this one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![][1]][1]  &#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: [rackcdn.com](https://522bb370f5443d4fe5b9-f62de27af599bb6703e11b472beadbcc.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product/zoomable_image/10932/max_desktop_bt2-main-b.jpg))&lt;/sub&gt;  &#xA;&#xA;&#xA; [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/b6xCX.jpg&#xA; [2]: https://www.shure.com/en-US/products/accessories/rmce-bt2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53128" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="10584" RevisionGUID="68f062ea-e8c1-48d9-90b3-8a0e141276e1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T08:28:17.717" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 6806 edit id of 1152" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53129" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="325" RevisionGUID="fab99ec7-4571-49b2-81ac-1dd35cea2774" CreationDate="2021-01-12T09:01:00.147" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53139" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="b0d37de1-148c-4d94-b795-cae6a138ccf3" CreationDate="2021-01-13T08:53:05.203" UserId="5531" Comment="Add the LG 32&quot; 4K OLED announced at CES 2021" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## Non-curved 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG UltraFine 32EP950](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/lg-32EP950-27GP950-ces) - LG's first OLED monitor, announced at CES 2021. Besides OLED: KVM, 2xDisplayPort 1.4, 2xUSB, USB-C with 90W power delivery, [60Hz refresh rate](https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&amp;id=1610378125). [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/kv2vqv/lg_32ep950_32_oled_monitor_trailer/) is [not that excited](https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/kv3n97/lg_announces_315inch_oled_4k_display_32ep950/) about it. No official product page yet.&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - USB-C, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), &#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53140" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="d2dff94a-eb0b-4ae0-bbcc-7849077908e1" CreationDate="2021-01-13T11:00:45.737" UserId="5531" Comment="More details on Dell" Text="I've been through all twenty pages of Amazon search results for this query (70% of them wrong, but that's another matter), and haven't found ANY monitor like this. I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flat 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG UltraFine 32EP950](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/lg-32EP950-27GP950-ces) - LG's first OLED monitor, announced at CES 2021. Besides OLED: KVM, 2xDisplayPort 1.4, 2xUSB, USB-C with 90W power delivery, [60Hz refresh rate](https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&amp;id=1610378125). [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/kv2vqv/lg_32ep950_32_oled_monitor_trailer/) is [not that excited](https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/kv3n97/lg_announces_315inch_oled_4k_display_32ep950/) about it. No official product page yet.&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - fully adjustable, 60Hz, USB-C with [90W](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDBD9CM) power delivery, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand, powered via USB from the monitor; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/) buyers report backlight bleed.&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;* At CES 2021, DELL announced a [40&quot; curved 5K2K screen](https://www.theverge.com/2021/1/11/22224847/dell-ultrasharp-40-curved-wuhd-u4021qw-monitor-5k2k-release-date-price-features-ports).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why is this so hard for manufacturers? Get a darn adjustable stand (there are many), and plaster it onto a 32&quot; 4K curved panel (there are quite a few).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Do I need to give up the stand and mount a curved 4K IPS panel on 2 inches of books or something?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53141" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="0a19f966-96d1-44c1-b1b4-9048ec8f3239" CreationDate="2021-01-13T11:08:01.317" UserId="5531" Comment="More details on Dell" Text="I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In over 6 months of searching, and haven't found ANY monitor fulfilling these criteria. I haven't found *any* 32&quot; curved 4K *IPS* panels, regardless of any other features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flat 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG UltraFine 32EP950](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/lg-32EP950-27GP950-ces) - LG's first OLED monitor, announced at CES 2021. Besides OLED: KVM, 2xDisplayPort 1.4, 2xUSB, USB-C with 90W power delivery, [60Hz refresh rate](https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&amp;id=1610378125). [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/kv2vqv/lg_32ep950_32_oled_monitor_trailer/) is [not that excited](https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/kv3n97/lg_announces_315inch_oled_4k_display_32ep950/) about it. No official product page yet.&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - fully adjustable, 60Hz, USB-C with [90W](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDBD9CM) power delivery, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand, powered via USB from the monitor; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/) buyers report backlight bleed.&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though, and it has a simple but useful volume knob. Sound is great but the lack of height adjustability made me not use the upper 25% of the screen. Wit the speakers below the bezel, the usable screen area starts at 103mm above the desk.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;* At CES 2021, DELL announced a [40&quot; curved 5K2K screen](https://www.theverge.com/2021/1/11/22224847/dell-ultrasharp-40-curved-wuhd-u4021qw-monitor-5k2k-release-date-price-features-ports).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53142" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="0a19f966-96d1-44c1-b1b4-9048ec8f3239" CreationDate="2021-01-13T11:08:01.317" UserId="5531" Comment="More details on Dell" Text="32&quot; curved 4K (UHD) IPS monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
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  <row Id="53223" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14497" RevisionGUID="688f877e-e158-4152-ab78-885f868c74ae" CreationDate="2021-01-19T21:04:30.373" UserId="16976" Text="# [Alarm.com ADC-W110](https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/adc-w110)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Looks promising. Claims to be 802.3af-compliant.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53234" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12879" RevisionGUID="38a0ed2a-b81d-42bf-88bb-cb29bd5472b1" CreationDate="2021-01-20T11:01:25.137" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53271" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14311" RevisionGUID="1dcb3c3a-a66f-4b71-a57b-d5a10c86b66e" CreationDate="2021-01-21T15:49:00.947" UserId="16726" Comment="Add charging criteria" Text="The smartwatch market is absolutely saturated. I have no clue how to tell which products and brands are good or bad.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Presumably many of the brands are using the same underlying hardware and just providing their own branding and software.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Is there a guide anywhere for how to tell what hardware and software platform a given product uses?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Example of the kind of thing I'm looking for: &#xD;&#xA; * [Which?](https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/smartwatches) tells me which OS these watches use &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a low cost smart watch for my children (7 &amp; 8) who have been admiring my el-cheapo smart watch. They are too young to have a proper phone. However, I notice that many of the smartwatches even the cheap ones support 2G, GPS and SOS calls.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Basically I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* A heart monitor     (as in a cheap tracker)&#xD;&#xA;* Games&#xD;&#xA;* Ability change watch faces (common but not standard).&#xD;&#xA;* Not too chunky.&#xD;&#xA;* Standalone but multiple devices can sync to (ideally the same) tablet easily (e.g. via wifi)&#xD;&#xA;* Cheap (up to £40)&#xD;&#xA;* Magnetic or USB3 charging. &#xD;&#xA;  (This new fad of removing the strap and plugging the whole watch into a USB socket is terrible)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Nice to have:&#xD;&#xA;* Music player &#xD;&#xA;* Camera&#xD;&#xA;* Not advertised as a phone (so they don't think they have one and won't pester us for a SIM)&#xD;&#xA;(If it is a phone with GPS tracker and SOS fine)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems that if you go down the heart monitor route you get a fitness watch.&#xD;&#xA;Down the games route you tend to get something chunkier and the heart monitor if present is not advertised.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example from Amazon we have:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* INIUPO Kids Smartwatch for Boys Girls Phone Game Smart Watch for kids Children Music Player Camera Alarm Clock Birthday Gift (Black)&#xD;&#xA;* Smooce Kids Smartwatch Phone, Waterproof Smartwatch for Kids with LBS Tracker SOS Voice Chat and Camera Game for 3-12 Years Old Kids Birthday &#xD;&#xA;* Kids Smart Watch Phone - IP67 Waterproof Smartwatch Boys Girls with Touch Screen 5 Games Camera Alarm SOS Call - Phone Watch Digital Wrist Watch for 3-13 &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aside: My requirements are different as I have a smartphone so actually the watch doesn't need anything the phone can do.&#xD;&#xA;But if it was for me I'd also want:&#xD;&#xA;* wifi&#xD;&#xA;* GPS (in case I leave the phone at home)&#xD;&#xA;* A standard OS (e.g. WearOS or Android) - hackable if possible.&#xD;&#xA;* some onboard storage&#xD;&#xA;* volume and track selection musics controls&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53272" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14506" RevisionGUID="d64c81a3-baa8-4dc0-af1b-f5b725035018" CreationDate="2021-01-21T18:10:55.237" UserId="11158" Text="(I wasn't sure if this should apply more to serverfault, or here, so feel free to migrate)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a longtime server admin for various HPC related projects, but in all cases so far, I've used a cloud provider of some sort. I'm familiar with general hardware deployments for many of my own projects, but nothing of this budget / scale so far. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for some recommendations for machines for a small HPC for an academic lab where jobs will generally be either CPU-heavy, GPU-heavy, or I/O heavy (but usually not all together). Most likely ubuntu-server. I know that doesn't leave much room for compromise. The main bottleneck in most of my deployments so far has been in the I/O performance, so that's something I would like covered especially. (NVME or such, raid60?) &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-I would like the main storage space to be shared by all machines. I've tried to use GlusterFS to mitigate split storage in prior deployments and performance was poor. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main two points of confusion related to server grade hardware selection are:&#xD;&#xA;-For shared storage, I am looking to use something more performant than NFS if possible. What kind of hardware do I need to directly share out the storage from the storage server. iSCSI?&#xD;&#xA;-For GPU capability, I often see machines that have the appropriate PCI-express availability, but it's difficult to confirm whether they will support GPUs (either due to sizing, or because they lack the appropriate power leads). What would be a good rule of thumb to use to determine if GPU's are supported by a specific server hardware?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My Budget is somewhere in the range of 70K USD. Just looking to get a few ideas. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks for reading. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53273" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14506" RevisionGUID="d64c81a3-baa8-4dc0-af1b-f5b725035018" CreationDate="2021-01-21T18:10:55.237" UserId="11158" Text="Academic development HPC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53274" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14506" RevisionGUID="d64c81a3-baa8-4dc0-af1b-f5b725035018" CreationDate="2021-01-21T18:10:55.237" UserId="11158" Text="&lt;server&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53281" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8294" RevisionGUID="4aeac523-54c4-4444-bbc6-0c21c6812690" CreationDate="2021-01-22T07:00:30.050" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53282" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14509" RevisionGUID="3d380d10-a196-4ae3-908a-7b73f6f0e06e" CreationDate="2021-01-22T12:20:08.997" UserId="14538" Text="Can anyone recommend recent models of 2.5&quot;-sized USB 3.0/USB Type C external drives with that still use a *real* 2.5&quot; SATA HDD inside?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Recently, a friend had their WD MyPassport 2.5&quot; external drive crash. I was shocked to see that the HDD had the [USB connector soldered on board](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GGTQF6oE3E), rather than being a regular SATA drive connected to a USB adapter.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This has two major implications:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. **The drive can't be directly attached to a motherboard.** This is very important if your drive crashes: data recovery programs work much more reliably over a SATA connection, compared to a USB connection. This is because data recovery [requires direct disk access](https://discdepotstandrews.co.uk/data-recovery-from-external-usb-hdd/). So, if you are unlucky and get a flimsy drive, you have better chances to recover your data.&#xD;&#xA;2. **You can't upgrade the drive capacity later.** This is not as critical as the first point, but still highly desirable. E.g. I still use a USB 2.0 LaCie upgraded to 1TB somewhere down the line. It's not a speed demon, but the aluminum case is very robust. It also regularly doubles as a SATA-USB adapter for 2.5&quot; SATA drives.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I am looking for recommendations on external drives that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* use a real SATA 2.5&quot; HDD inside (mandatory!)&#xD;&#xA;* have either a Micro Type B or Type C USB port on the the enclosure (mandatory!)&#xD;&#xA;* feature USB 3.0 UASP or better&#xD;&#xA;* are good looking&#xD;&#xA;* are relatively easy to disassemble&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53283" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14509" RevisionGUID="3d380d10-a196-4ae3-908a-7b73f6f0e06e" CreationDate="2021-01-22T12:20:08.997" UserId="14538" Text="2.5&quot; USB external drive that uses regular SATA HDD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53284" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14509" RevisionGUID="3d380d10-a196-4ae3-908a-7b73f6f0e06e" CreationDate="2021-01-22T12:20:08.997" UserId="14538" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53285" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14510" RevisionGUID="424060e5-5ed0-46cc-8545-d851fd3efa5f" CreationDate="2021-01-22T13:19:34.293" UserId="24" Text="I had the same problem, although with 3.5&quot;. I did not even looked for such a solution. Instead, I have simply bought a 3.5&quot; SATA drive and an USB box separately, from different sources. In this configuration (which is **much** better than the usb-only version), the adapter box and the disk are completely different products. It works also for 2.5&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is the cheapest][1] what I found on the ebay. It is $7. Now you need to buy a 2.5&quot; SATA HDD (or SSD - does not matter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) into it, plug into, and you have what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Do not buy a box which has no external power source* - the USB cable is often not enough to give to the disk the required power. HDDs need the most power if you start them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Well, actually it matters if it is an SSD - the protocol on which your computer talks to the disk over USB, does not support trimming. This makes the SSDs to more quickly wear down. We need to wait USB4, this already supports trimming. Other side is that SSDs are inherently prone to vibration, HDDs are very sensitive against them. Never rotate a HDD while it is powered on!&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-SATA-Hard-Drive-External-USB-3-0-Enclosure-HDD-Case-Durable-Case-Retail-Box/202953197437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53286" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14510" RevisionGUID="4b81b67b-c8d9-4f05-a75f-0cdf73582bdc" CreationDate="2021-01-22T13:26:26.087" UserId="24" Comment="added 86 characters in body" Text="I had the same problem, although with 3.5&quot;. I did not even looked for such a solution. Instead, I have simply bought a 3.5&quot; SATA drive and an USB box separately, from different sources. In this configuration (which is **much** better than the usb-only version), the adapter box and the disk are completely different products. It works also for 2.5&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[This is the cheapest][1] what I found on the ebay. It is $7. Now you need to buy a 2.5&quot; SATA HDD (or SSD - does not matter&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) into it, plug into, and you have what you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Do not buy a box which has no external power source* - the USB cable is often not enough to give to the disk the required power. HDDs need the most power if you start them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Well, actually it matters if it is an SSD - the protocol on which your computer talks to the disk over USB, does not support trimming. This makes the SSDs to more quickly wear down. We need to wait USB4, this already supports trimming. Other side is that SSDs are inherently prone to vibration, HDDs are very sensitive against them. Never rotate a HDD while it is powered on! Although 2.5&quot; HDDs are for laptops, thus the manufacturer likely takes care for that.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-SATA-Hard-Drive-External-USB-3-0-Enclosure-HDD-Case-Durable-Case-Retail-Box/202953197437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53287" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14511" RevisionGUID="0f20d77f-5c7a-40bb-98f0-20c688826219" CreationDate="2021-01-22T14:31:42.417" UserId="16986" Text="I need to track items in gold jewelry store usig RFID, located in israel .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for companies who produce RFID reader works within 915-917 MHz matches israel law .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53288" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14511" RevisionGUID="0f20d77f-5c7a-40bb-98f0-20c688826219" CreationDate="2021-01-22T14:31:42.417" UserId="16986" Text="rfid readers 915 - 917 MHZ?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53289" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14511" RevisionGUID="0f20d77f-5c7a-40bb-98f0-20c688826219" CreationDate="2021-01-22T14:31:42.417" UserId="16986" Text="&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53290" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14511" RevisionGUID="297820f2-fdd6-45a3-96c5-9c1c42dccbf9" CreationDate="2021-01-22T17:11:28.597" UserId="24" Comment="format, English, topicality" Text="I need to track items in gold jewelry store usig RFID, located in Israel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for an RFID reader, which works within 915-917 MHz and matches israeli law." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53291" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14511" RevisionGUID="297820f2-fdd6-45a3-96c5-9c1c42dccbf9" CreationDate="2021-01-22T17:11:28.597" Comment="Proposed by 24 approved by 16986 edit id of 1157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53293" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14512" RevisionGUID="3950dc1d-4ff9-4872-9161-4f613c3f2cfd" CreationDate="2021-01-22T19:47:40.773" UserId="11012" Text="Looking for a small, dedicated device to perform the same function as an authenticator token app. Ideally, open source with the ability to select and display tokens without connecting to anything.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Think traditional RSA hardware token, only with the ability to add other tokens and flip through them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I don't see a related tag for anything like this, feel free to edit)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53294" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14512" RevisionGUID="3950dc1d-4ff9-4872-9161-4f613c3f2cfd" CreationDate="2021-01-22T19:47:40.773" UserId="11012" Text="Hardware token supporting multiple 2FA codes" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53295" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14512" RevisionGUID="3950dc1d-4ff9-4872-9161-4f613c3f2cfd" CreationDate="2021-01-22T19:47:40.773" UserId="11012" Text="&lt;usb&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53296" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14513" RevisionGUID="a8e843ad-f3c5-45a8-9a46-96c13e5bd725" CreationDate="2021-01-22T21:23:16.313" UserId="16988" Text="I'm just curious ... I wonder if any manufacturer has ever tried to make a laptop with actual full size keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By ACTUAL full-size I mean not just having a numpad. I mean one that has a keyboard with FULL layout exactly like you expect in a desktop keyboard. So my &quot;ideal&quot; keyboard has:&#xD;&#xA;1. **A numpad**. Bonus points if it has both dot and comma keys.&#xD;&#xA;2. **The arrow keys are where they belong, below** the INS DEL HOME END PAGE UP/DOWN **3x2 group**.&#xD;&#xA;3. **No compacting** of arrow keys in the same space, or of any other keys whatsoever. Preferably F1..F12 are in groups of four, like expected, for easy access without looking. No tricks to save space that will impact on usability.&#xD;&#xA;3. **No keys out-of-place**. No FN key on the left of CTRL. In fact, having no need for a FN key at all would be even better. Ideally any keys like volume, brightness, toggles for mute, mic or wireless, media keys, etc., if present, would be their own separate key on a separate extra row above the keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;4. And, for crying out loud, **NO MISSING KEYS** like / or ? requiring Alt Gr!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things I don't mind:&#xD;&#xA;- Having just the left winkey is enough. No need for 2 of them.&#xD;&#xA;- I don't care about having a scroll lock key, as long as it's always off.&#xD;&#xA;- I wouldn't normally care about having num lock key, as long as it's always on. Though it's possible it might be needed, I dunno.&#xD;&#xA;- No need for abnormally large right shift key. Even if the spacebar is smaller, I don't mind.&#xD;&#xA;- I don't care about fancy extra keys like calculator and whatnot. Back/forward keys would be nice, though, but not absolutely needed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care if keys are tiny like in a netbook, and really close to each other, and the notebook is larger than normal. I just wish someone would make a laptop totally focused on typing, with full keys layout. This would be particularly good for programming and gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Has anyone seen anything like that?  &#xD;&#xA;If not, do you think it would be impossible to make, or is it possible that we might get one eventually?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53297" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14513" RevisionGUID="a8e843ad-f3c5-45a8-9a46-96c13e5bd725" CreationDate="2021-01-22T21:23:16.313" UserId="16988" Text="Is there any notebook with ACTUAL full-size keyboard, exact same layout as desktop keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53298" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14513" RevisionGUID="a8e843ad-f3c5-45a8-9a46-96c13e5bd725" CreationDate="2021-01-22T21:23:16.313" UserId="16988" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53304" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8339" RevisionGUID="09107846-b7c2-4902-9224-461eb6d6353b" CreationDate="2021-01-23T12:06:25.630" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53308" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14512" RevisionGUID="ecb1954d-add1-46d4-93e1-7cf29fe141a1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T17:14:10.350" UserId="8" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;2fa&gt;&lt;hardware-token&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53320" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="5910" RevisionGUID="17880cd8-eb57-4bdf-9e0d-339653cf13cd" CreationDate="2021-01-24T14:17:46.963" UserId="1410" Comment="added 155 characters in body" Text="I am a softie, with little understanding of hardware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to develop a vending machine controller, as cheaply as possible, while still being functional. I don’t expect heavy CPU or RAM usage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;To be compatible with standard peripherals, such as coin &amp; note changers, it must have a URT. I guess that I just use a USB to UATR converter? Is that best/cheapest/are there any alternatives?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It will also need to drive some motors to expel the vended goods, and will have a keypad for ordering and a display (which display probably depends on price), and possibly a sensor to determine that items actually drop. Does this mean GPIO pins?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to add wifi, for diagnostics, retrieval of sales data, upload of new firmware to the machine, and, in future, I might like to add RJ45.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Can anyone advise me what is the best way to go? Do I just take a Pi Zero and start adding shields, or is there a better suited model/peripheral combination? Sorry to be so dense. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----  &#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;[Update] a mere five years later, all that you have to do is DuckDuckGo for [raspberry pi mdb](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=raspberry+pi+mdb)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53326" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13102" RevisionGUID="b172bb67-3c42-423e-b646-b9910a087ee5" CreationDate="2021-01-25T22:03:55.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53330" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14520" RevisionGUID="c7252777-7fc9-479d-a19d-a6e321f49b3a" CreationDate="2021-01-26T13:54:29.277" UserId="17005" Text="I **don't** want NVIDIA, I have experienced first hand its terrible VR support (Alyx, after many months, still runs like garbage on 2080ti) and even for non-VR games NVIDIA is usually much slower in supporting new games (e.g. Doom Eternal, Cyberpunk 2077).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would prefer GPU having an open source driver. Good Linux support is a hard requirement (I don't use any other OS).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My price range is around 700$ (I don't want to go over 1000$).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to try to get into machine learning (probably pytorch or tensorflow), so the GPU should be supported in at least one of those.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was looking at 6800xt from AMD, but I don't know if it is supported in ML libraries. I know for sure it doesn't have CUDA (since it's NVIDIA tech) and sadly generic OpenCL doesn't seem to be supported in any mainstream ML library I checked. I saw mentions of ROCm for ML on AMD, but I didn't manage to find a complete list of supported cards. On NVIDIA, CUDA support is on every (at least mid to high range) gaming card, but I have no idea about AMD cards and their alternative to CUDA.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hope I am asking in a correct place. Any recommendations, corrections and explanations (I am not that knowledgeable in hardware) are welcome." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53331" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14520" RevisionGUID="c7252777-7fc9-479d-a19d-a6e321f49b3a" CreationDate="2021-01-26T13:54:29.277" UserId="17005" Text="GPU for gaming, good VR support and ML on Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53332" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14520" RevisionGUID="c7252777-7fc9-479d-a19d-a6e321f49b3a" CreationDate="2021-01-26T13:54:29.277" UserId="17005" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;linux&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53333" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14521" RevisionGUID="69e17050-5c73-4324-9f2b-42e4e9004dd2" CreationDate="2021-01-26T16:54:57.480" UserId="14287" Text="I am looking for a LED DALI-driver with at least 3 channels:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - U_supply: (24V DC or 230V AC&#xD;&#xA; - U_out: 24V DC&#xD;&#xA; - I_Channel &gt; 2.5A&#xD;&#xA; - each Channel needs its own adress&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently use a [skydance][1] driver, but it is not as reliable as single channel products from Osram or Phillips (signal not going through, flickering) . A better driver is the [Mibox][2], but the mode is controlled via a button on the driver. This is not an ideal situation since the mode can only be set manually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there some 'brand' DALI drivers which fullfill my requirements?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://www.iskydance.com/index.php?c=product_show&amp;a=index&amp;id=1237&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33056572702.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dImLhVC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53334" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14521" RevisionGUID="69e17050-5c73-4324-9f2b-42e4e9004dd2" CreationDate="2021-01-26T16:54:57.480" UserId="14287" Text="Constant voltage 3 channel DALI driver" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53335" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14521" RevisionGUID="69e17050-5c73-4324-9f2b-42e4e9004dd2" CreationDate="2021-01-26T16:54:57.480" UserId="14287" Text="&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53365" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14528" RevisionGUID="837b68f2-c00e-444d-864b-9c0f9bce135d" CreationDate="2021-01-28T09:46:49.237" UserId="5194" Text="I've been using the Logitech G933 for almost a year now, and it's been answering my requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Wireless, with a USB dongle that's as small as many bluetooth dongles (Less than 2 inches).&#xD;&#xA; 2. Detachable microphone on the headset, as well as a button to turn the microphone on and off. The microphone's connection to the headset seems like a standard 3.5mm, but I haven't tested replacing it. One flaw is that it has a &quot;flexible&quot; handle that seems to keep going back to the straight position, no matter how many times I try to bend it towards my mouth. It's hearing range is quite tight, so putting it near my mouth is a must to be heard clearly.&#xD;&#xA; 3. Excellent sound quality, as far as my ears can tell. Can use it to play games, listen to music, watch videos, and not feel anything off.&#xD;&#xA; 4. Same as 3. The microphone has no effect on the sound quality, and is actually at a semi-decent quality itself.&#xD;&#xA; 5. Sound quality is crisp, even at a long distance. At worst, I had mild sound cut-offs while on a different floor from the dongle, but no noise.&#xD;&#xA; 6. Unfortunately, it does have auto-off if silent for a while. But it doesn't lose sync with the dongle, and there's a physical on-off button on the headphone itself, so it takes only a second to turn it back on. It's better to be charging it rather than wearing it when not listening to anything, anyway.&#xD;&#xA; 7. I've very rarely encountered running out of battery, but the USB-C charging port can be used while listening, with no issues, other than the cable getting in my face. The port is only for charging, so you can just as easily connect it to a computer or a wall socket USB charger. The charging port is on the left ear, which may or may not matter depending on whether the nearest USB port is on your left or right. Using a magnetic USB-C charging cable (bought separately) makes the process of setting the headphones for charging, and picking them up, extremely smooth and fast, as well.&#xD;&#xA; 8. The pieces of plastic that hold the earphones extension mechanism are not durable enough to hold the weight of the earphones. Depending on how you hold the headphones they may break. However, since it's just a piece of plastic, they can be easily reinforced with duck-tape or rubber band, or anything else that's slightly more durable, and the problem is solved. The important thing is that the electronics are durable, and even with the plastic piece breaking, the headphones continue to work perfectly fine. Also, only that small plastic piece broke, while everything else, like band or ear cushioning, isn't showing even mild signs of wear. So, despite being a fragile Logitech product, it's been holding up reasonably well.&#xD;&#xA; 9. Haven't noticed any issues with the volume balance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53371" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14530" RevisionGUID="9884c2cf-f098-4840-ba6c-588c810b30ba" CreationDate="2021-01-28T16:36:09.903" UserId="17018" Text="The [Molto-1 by Token2][1] is a programmable, multi profile hardware token. I own one of those for a few months now and use it on a daily basis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Molto-2 supports 10 different profiles, 6 or 8 digit codes and SHA-1 and SHA-256 hash algorithms. Google Authenticator uses 6 digit codes with SHA-1, so the Molto-1 is fully compatible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Programming happens with an Android app over NFC, so be sure to use a smartphone you trust. Alternatively the Molto-1i supports iOS. RTC resynchronisation also happens with the app. The app itself has pretty rough edges, but you can figure out how to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One downside is the non-replaceable battery. It is supposed to last 4-5 years, and it has a battery indicator warning you early enough when it's running low.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I just realized they have a new multi-profile hardware token, the [Molto-2][2]. It is USB-programmable and features a bigger display for presenting QR codes, as well as USB HID emulation for automatic entry of TOTP codes on a computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.token2.eu/shop/product/token2-molto-1-multi-profile-totp-hardware-token&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.token2.eu/shop/product/molto-2-multi-profile-totp-programmable-hardware-token" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53379" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12462" RevisionGUID="ce7013e5-f4a6-4f3d-97a4-be09f3cc4d15" CreationDate="2021-01-29T17:02:45.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53398" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="633" RevisionGUID="88e1c274-b472-4b54-8555-a8127767c84e" CreationDate="2021-01-30T22:03:35.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53407" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14542" RevisionGUID="ed9b87b0-e26b-4020-b791-3e834c10a840" CreationDate="2021-01-31T15:05:40.697" UserId="1410" Text="The USB ports on my laptop have packed up. It will cost a few weeks that I don't have to get it repaired, not to mention the cost.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see that Western Digital, and others, are selling a &quot;Personal Cloud&quot;, which is basically a harddrive in a casing with a WiFi interface.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have a bunch of hardrives lying around, I wonder if I case just buy the case anywhere and pop in my own drive. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A WiFi interface would be simple, while Ethernet would be faster, but inconvenient, as my laptop has only one Ethernet port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, order of preference for interface is:  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - both WiFi and &#xD;&#xA; - WiFi only   &#xD;&#xA; - Ethernet only  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am currently located in England, at least until their lockdown ends, so something located there, or quick &amp; cheap to arrive by post would be preferable - although I will consider anything. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's just that customs duty is now a factor, post-Brexit, so it might be cheaper to buy the whole unit here. Ordinarily, I would consider Ali Baba, but have been waiting 2 month already for a battery for my 'phone - can Covid really be having such an effect on shipping?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53408" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14542" RevisionGUID="ed9b87b0-e26b-4020-b791-3e834c10a840" CreationDate="2021-01-31T15:05:40.697" UserId="1410" Text="Hardrive case with WiFi and/or Ethernet interface" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53409" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14542" RevisionGUID="ed9b87b0-e26b-4020-b791-3e834c10a840" CreationDate="2021-01-31T15:05:40.697" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;drive-enclosure&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14549" RevisionGUID="05b09cb3-a0e7-4436-a377-5ada6a30053c" CreationDate="2021-02-02T22:33:08.760" UserId="147" Text="As of 2021 (five years after I asked this original question), the best product for this is the [Elgato Cam Link 4K](https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/cam-link-4k). If you find it on sale, it can be had for around $100." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53434" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8197" RevisionGUID="c940cea9-bb1d-4b19-9687-66881b64209b" CreationDate="2021-02-02T23:05:30.563" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53436" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="f724ad12-05e9-41ed-bb09-46ce08d16a9a" CreationDate="2021-02-03T08:24:42.257" UserId="16377" Comment="clarification in tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;displays&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53443" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8347" RevisionGUID="f1f9b446-704f-49bf-a5a6-7a235b5115e1" CreationDate="2021-02-03T17:07:50.837" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53450" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14553" RevisionGUID="e9d123e4-ebd1-4db8-8ff2-05602709b4f7" CreationDate="2021-02-04T14:17:36.907" UserId="17052" Text="I'm in the market for a new laptop to replace my aging ASUS model from 2013. &#xA;&#xA;I'm looking for a thin and lightweight model, with good battery (let's say minimum 5 hours). I would also like some sort of dedicated graphics card. I'm not a huge gamer, so it doesn't need to be top of the line. The laptop will be used primarily (90%) for office productivity / video, photo editing / coding with WSL2. But I would like the ability to play something now and again if the mood strikes. &#xA;&#xA;A Dell XPS with a GeForce 1650 seems like an ideal solution, but it has a pretty hefty price tag, around $2000 CAD. I'm wondering what if any alternatives I should consider that could save a few bucks. &#xA;&#xA;A few other considerations: &#xA;&#xA;I need a 15 inch display, 1920 x 1080 with a good color gamet. I do not need a touch screen, although I'm not opposed to one either. &#xA;&#xA;I need a very large, fast hard drive (e.g. 1 TB SSD) though I'm willing to buy a model with a smaller drive and upgrade, as long as the model allows it. &#xA;&#xA;I would prefer to stick Intel/Nvidia if possible. I've had three AMD laptops in the past (2006, 2009, 2011) and none of them lasted more then 2-3 years, as they all had serious over heating issues almost from Day 1. However my current Intel/Nvidia laptop from 2013 has no such issues, nor have any of the Intel-based laptops I've used for work. &#xA;&#xA;WiFi 6 is highly desirable. Ethernet port and a dedicated number pad would be nice but not required. &#xA;&#xA;Preferably compatible with a Dell TB16 dock. &#xA;&#xA;Looking to purchase in the next 1-2 months. Dell often does a semi-annual sale in early March, so I might buy an XPS then if I don't find anything else in the meantime.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53451" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14553" RevisionGUID="e9d123e4-ebd1-4db8-8ff2-05602709b4f7" CreationDate="2021-02-04T14:17:36.907" UserId="17052" Text="Replacing my daily driver laptop - Considering Dell XPS or cheaper" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53452" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14553" RevisionGUID="e9d123e4-ebd1-4db8-8ff2-05602709b4f7" CreationDate="2021-02-04T14:17:36.907" UserId="17052" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53459" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14556" RevisionGUID="f6e1ce26-8345-4edd-9ec5-94b37a99c58c" CreationDate="2021-02-05T01:42:31.647" UserId="9325" Text="I need to add a few HDDs to my desktop. There are various PCIe SATA cards for up to 8 SATA ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My problem is that almost all of them use X1 PCIe slot. While you can reach the SATA maximum speed of 6.0 Gbit/s with PCIe 3.0 x1, the speed is very low if all HDDs are used at the same time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, I use a PCIe x16 slot of my motherboard (whether the card is x1 or x16).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found a few options on Amazon for PCIe x8 cards for 4 SATA ports, which can reach the maximum SATA speed for 2.4 bands (2.4 x 6.0 Gbit/s), but they do not seem very popular.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there any PCIe SATA Card using all bands provided by PCIe x16?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53460" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14556" RevisionGUID="f6e1ce26-8345-4edd-9ec5-94b37a99c58c" CreationDate="2021-02-05T01:42:31.647" UserId="9325" Text="PCIe SATA Card for x16 slot" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53461" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14556" RevisionGUID="f6e1ce26-8345-4edd-9ec5-94b37a99c58c" CreationDate="2021-02-05T01:42:31.647" UserId="9325" Text="&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;sata&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53466" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5499" RevisionGUID="73bb1ac5-146b-42de-8234-6536ff47749e" CreationDate="2021-02-05T16:02:50.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53470" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14558" RevisionGUID="60dc7217-4ded-454d-acdd-74958dfaae14" CreationDate="2021-02-06T12:09:18.130" UserId="6950" Text="You might look at mixing a usb-to-sata connector (about £10 on [amazon.co.uk](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011M8YACM)) unless your discs are already usb, with something like the Verbatim 98243 MediaShare Wireless (about [£10](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CZ0P0PS)), or a router with a usb port like the TP-Link AC750 ([£35](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01NAYG15H)). They may both be fairly slow, at usb2 speeds, and might only accept limited and proprietory formats like FAT and NTFS, shared over the network as CIFS, or sometimes only via some client software (you will need to check with these 2 examples).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A cleaner solution is a cheap but versatile NAS like the&#xD;&#xA;Synology DS120j at [£95](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YVF3Q5G/). This does not have wifi, and unfortunately, Synology recently stopped supporting usb-wifi dongles, so for wifi you will need something like this&#xD;&#xA;TP-Link TL-WA850RE N300 hotspot ([£15](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AHXXJVW/)). This NAS needs an internal drive that it will reformat; I'd recommend an SSD so that it is silent. The NAS has a fan but it won't run unless you let it do indexing of your data which is really slow and power hungry. It has nice features like being able to backup to the cloud, with encryption, support for NFS and ext4, and a pretty GUI. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53471" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6516" RevisionGUID="ee62cc7d-f09d-49b8-8299-cef380d7bbf9" CreationDate="2021-02-07T19:56:54.603" UserId="1808" Comment="deleted 1 character in body" Text="I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology in their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, *(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system *(most of the time, it doesn’t work)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :&#xD;&#xA;I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV *(through HDMI)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick *(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)*.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[I saw](https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546) [several products](http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&amp;format=2&amp;p_id=8087). But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53478" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13714" RevisionGUID="298ecd96-e1ad-4818-896d-b352349b7b00" CreationDate="2021-02-07T21:07:35.747" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53495" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13190" RevisionGUID="5d37be9a-9599-4e2d-82eb-657b59a22e40" CreationDate="2021-02-08T16:02:25.360" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53506" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14571" RevisionGUID="14dbdd97-9cb2-4def-b317-1d0004cd6e74" CreationDate="2021-02-09T00:09:12.947" UserId="17077" Text="At this very moment this is not an answer, but I am currently working on building e-drum connectors into a Rockband 4 xbox one drum set. The wireless drums are the drum brain. I so far have it detecting the input from e-drum and e-symbol. I hope to have the entire set-up working in a week or so.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53516" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10679" RevisionGUID="de3ad55b-2434-4c00-b9fc-5d0fd9f75e68" CreationDate="2021-02-09T18:04:45.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53533" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9653" RevisionGUID="db1331c0-e9fd-4f83-a48c-c58827f0a5ae" CreationDate="2021-02-11T19:02:30.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53541" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14582" RevisionGUID="d754afd0-215e-4d40-a3a9-0162377033e1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T02:57:07.653" UserId="17091" Text="I'm looking for a good cheap USB-C/thunderbolt dock that supports one monitor @ 1440p60, and has at least 2 USB-A ports. Also keen to have gigabit ethernet but that's less critical. I **don't** need passthrough power (as my laptop is too hungry for that), so it should be a 'passive' hub, i.e. powered by the computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;More broadly: There are many, many little hubs like this on Amazon, almost all of which support power passthrough via a PD type C port that you plug a power brick into, and support &quot;HDMI 4K@30hz, 1080p@60hz&quot;, can I be confident that these will:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - support 1440p60&#xD;&#xA; - work in a passive mode, i.e. not ***require*** an external power source plugged into it" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53542" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14582" RevisionGUID="d754afd0-215e-4d40-a3a9-0162377033e1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T02:57:07.653" UserId="17091" Text="Dock that supports 1 monitor @ 1440p@60hz, with Ethernet and a bunch of USB-A's" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53543" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14582" RevisionGUID="d754afd0-215e-4d40-a3a9-0162377033e1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T02:57:07.653" UserId="17091" Text="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53553" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4356" RevisionGUID="822d92df-a090-4af7-903e-11724cc3287e" CreationDate="2021-02-13T12:05:15.423" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53554" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14587" RevisionGUID="b5045c3e-af9f-4ca4-92c1-40a13cdb16f7" CreationDate="2021-02-13T12:27:27.430" UserId="12926" Text="The original (&amp; now unfortunately discontinued) Apple A1243 Wired Aluminium Keyboard is similar in feel, but considerably superior to the butterfly laptop keyboards mechanically. Buying second hand is not much of a risk, because of their durability.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can find them on such as eBay for as little as $£€ 35 or so (when they were first discontinued the prices rocketed to about £140, matching the price of a brand new wireless one, but fortunately the panic is over &amp; prices have dropped again.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unless you manage to damage it by accident (they are to all intents &amp; purposes not repairable if you water-spill etc), I'd expect one to stand up to constant use for perhaps a decade, by which time it will still work just fine, but some of the letters will have worn off ;)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The oldest one still in use here is now over a decade old (from a 2008 Mac Pro), still as good as when it was new. We replaced one after a water spill &amp; one after it was no longer legible - 10 hours a day for 10 years will do that;) though we still keep it as a spare.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuMdS.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53649" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14594" RevisionGUID="33eed54a-537b-4580-a48a-8ce42642740c" CreationDate="2021-02-15T23:43:42.963" UserId="10506" Text="[iClever BK05](https://www.iclever.com/products/BK05-Tri-Folding-Bluetooth-Keyboard) might fit the bill. It does have Bluetooth, but is also able to work via USB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53650" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14595" RevisionGUID="475a84bd-0d88-4425-8188-e37302beb64c" CreationDate="2021-02-15T23:48:59.740" UserId="10506" Text="[iClever BK05](https://www.iclever.com/products/BK05-Tri-Folding-Bluetooth-Keyboard) fits my bill for now. It does have Bluetooth, but is also able to work via USB." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53654" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13280" RevisionGUID="e76a1caf-6e06-4eb3-a29c-7c968352e385" CreationDate="2021-02-16T08:02:55.250" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53655" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14597" RevisionGUID="d4e7ef96-6267-406b-975e-83dffea11d7b" CreationDate="2021-02-16T08:10:39.043" UserId="16159" Text="Are there any tablets that have HDMI output to a 1080p resolution screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intended use is for streaming videos on a TV." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53656" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14597" RevisionGUID="d4e7ef96-6267-406b-975e-83dffea11d7b" CreationDate="2021-02-16T08:10:39.043" UserId="16159" Text="Tablet with HDMI output recommendations" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53657" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14597" RevisionGUID="d4e7ef96-6267-406b-975e-83dffea11d7b" CreationDate="2021-02-16T08:10:39.043" UserId="16159" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14602" RevisionGUID="cdd72e0a-70c4-42de-864b-4fc441bde288" CreationDate="2021-02-16T21:04:11.817" UserId="14538" Text="I want to build a small factor mini-itx PC for gaming around a motherboard based on AMD X570. Ideally, I am looking for cases &lt;20lt in volume. Slightly bigger cases (&lt;24lt) would also do.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem is that with these volume limitations, any good looking cases I've found (e.g. [NZXT H1][h1] or [Phanteks Evolv Shift 2][es2]) use PCIe risers that are only PCIe 3.0 compatible. I've also found some small factor cases that support PCIe 4.0 GPUs that are yet to go on sale (e.g. [Thor-Zone Mjolnir][tzm]). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I am looking for recommendations for mini-itx cases with:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - streamlined look (see examples above),&#xD;&#xA; - volume &lt;20lt (or at worst &lt;24lt),&#xD;&#xA; - PCIe 4.0 GPU compatibility (either via a compatible riser or by allowing directly attaching the GPU to the motherboard),&#xD;&#xA; - availability within Q1 2021 (or at worst Q2 2021).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Speculations on whether/when one of the models mentioned above will be updated to PCIe 4.0 are also welcome in the comments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[h1]: https://www.nzxt.com/products/h1-matte-black&#xD;&#xA;[es2]: http://www.phanteks.com/Evolv-Shift2.html&#xD;&#xA;[tzm]: https://thor-zone.com/mini-itx/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53673" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14602" RevisionGUID="cdd72e0a-70c4-42de-864b-4fc441bde288" CreationDate="2021-02-16T21:04:11.817" UserId="14538" Text="Small mini-itx case with support for PCIe 4.0 GPUs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53674" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14602" RevisionGUID="cdd72e0a-70c4-42de-864b-4fc441bde288" CreationDate="2021-02-16T21:04:11.817" UserId="14538" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53675" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14603" RevisionGUID="210623dc-21c3-4cad-b7ce-bde8bc3843dc" CreationDate="2021-02-16T22:44:48.337" UserId="17108" Text="Today my laptop (HP pavillion g6-2209sl equipped with: i3-2370M @2.40GHz, RAM: 4 GB, SSD: 512 GB, AMD Radeon HD 7670M 2GB) has shown some problems, so I need to buy a new one tomorrow.&#xA;&#xA;I'd like to buy a 15.6&quot; laptop; I'll use it for my job, so to work with an IDE: like PyCharm, Visual Studio, Eclipse, ....&#xA;Moreover, while working with an IDE, I usually open many Google Chrome tabs simultaneously and, at the same time, I often also use programs like: MS Word, MS Teams and a Git Client (Gitkraken).&#xA;&#xA;I don't use graphic/CAD programs like Photoshop or Autocad, but I want a laptop with a dedicated Graphic Card, in case, in future, I'll need to use (sometimes) any graphic programs.&#xA;&#xA;The laptop I want to buy could have only 8 GB RAM, but, in this case, it must be expandable to 16 GB.&#xA;The budget is 800-850€. &#xA;&#xA;In a shop in my city there's an HP 15-DW1080NL on sale, for a price of 699€ (instead of 799€).&#xA;&#xA;It has:&#xA;&#xA; - Intel i5-10210U @1.6 GHz (@4.2 GHz with Turbo Boost: 4.20 GHz), L3 cache: 6MB&#xA; - RAM 12 GB (I think not expandable)&#xA; - Graphic Card: Geforce MX130 2GB&#xA; - SSD M2 512 GB&#xA;&#xA;My doubts are about:&#xA;&#xA; - processor: it's not an i7, and it hasn't a very high frequency, but I hope, anyway, it will be sufficient for me (until now, I could say that my i3 has been sufficient)&#xA; - RAM: I would have preferred 8GB expandable to 16 GB, instead of 12 GB not expandable.&#xA;Even if I'm not completely sure that RAM of HP 15-DW1080NL is really not expandable (do you know?)&#xA;&#xA;So, finally, I'd like to have an opinion from you about HP 15-DW1080NL and about some doubts described above." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53676" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14603" RevisionGUID="210623dc-21c3-4cad-b7ce-bde8bc3843dc" CreationDate="2021-02-16T22:44:48.337" UserId="17108" Text="Recommendation about a laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53677" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14603" RevisionGUID="210623dc-21c3-4cad-b7ce-bde8bc3843dc" CreationDate="2021-02-16T22:44:48.337" UserId="17108" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53678" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="a5f4078b-6b20-4f25-abc8-def93691ab25" CreationDate="2021-02-17T02:40:53.090" UserId="17109" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000. Indecent ones are below 2500. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money on for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in your current model number of you CPU anf GPU and you will find out what you have and what you are getting so you see the difference in upgrading your laptop." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53679" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="1a12bb77-57a4-447a-ba1c-879321a7c8ab" CreationDate="2021-02-17T02:46:28.557" UserId="17109" Comment="added 291 characters in body" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000. Indecent ones are below 2500. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in your current model number of you CPU anf GPU and you will find out what you have and what you are getting so you see the difference in upgrading your laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+MX130&amp;id=3890&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your NVIDIA® GeForce® MX130 has a score of 1928 which is horrendous.&#xD;&#xA;   But then again, your future workload is unknown so it might be&#xD;&#xA;   suitable. An average GPU is 10000 and slightly less if it is a&#xD;&#xA;   laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is clear that most of your HP laptop budget is going into that 512 GB m.2 SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to look for another laptop with as high as possible CPU and GPU passmark scores in your price range. Or increase your price range, or be prepared to use this laptop with a shorter useful life span. I think your HP laptop you proposed will be good for 5 years as long as the GPU is not used. If you do plan on using that GPU then it is good for 3 years. Again these numbers are rough and estimates." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53680" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="9a51f3c5-2bc7-4487-9d19-bd6676610a53" CreationDate="2021-02-17T02:57:58.727" UserId="17109" Comment="added 261 characters in body" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your i3-2370M has a single core rating of 1055 and a multicore rating of 1307, so be prepared for a 2x speed increase&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000 and multicore rating of 8000+. Indecent ones are below 2500 and a multicore rating of 4000 or below. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in your the CPU anf GPU of other laptops you see online or your local shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+MX130&amp;id=3890&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your HP's NVIDIA® GeForce® MX130 has a score of 1928 which is horrendous&#xD;&#xA; - However your future workload is unknown so it might be suitable. An average GPU is 10000 and slightly less than 10000 if it is a laptop&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your current AMD Radeon 7670M has a score of 454, so be prepared for a 4x boost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is clear that most of The HP laptop budget is going into that 512 GB m.2 SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to look for another laptop with as high as possible CPU and GPU passmark scores in your price range. Or increase your price range, or be prepared to use this laptop with a shorter useful life span. I think your HP laptop you proposed will be good for 5-7 years as long as the GPU is not used. If you do plan on using that GPU then it is good for 1-3 years. These numbers are rough estimates since I do not know how demanding your workload is." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53686" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14608" RevisionGUID="8f73aa4d-5d12-4792-b795-a10533ba74a9" CreationDate="2021-02-17T08:44:31.737" UserId="1873" Text="[SSUPD Meshlicious](https://ssupd.com/products/meshlicious) should fit your needs.&#xA;&#xA;The riser they use, by LINKUP, is also available alone so you can order one of those. But you need to check case compatibility.&#xA;&#xA;A comment on H1: it's been recalled for being a fire hazard (GamersNexus covered it on YouTube)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53690" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="d2512921-c057-4d7d-83e1-143b8a461a1e" CreationDate="2021-02-17T17:41:21.907" UserId="17109" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your i3-2370M has a single core rating of 1055 and a multicore rating of 1307, so be prepared for a 2x speed increase&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000 and multicore rating of 8000+. Indecent ones are below 2500 and a multicore rating of 4000 or below. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in the CPU anf GPU of other laptops you see online or at your local shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+MX130&amp;id=3890&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your HP's NVIDIA® GeForce® MX130 has a score of 1928 which is horrendous&#xD;&#xA; - However your future workload is unknown so it might be suitable. An average GPU is 10000 and slightly less than 10000 if it is a laptop&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your current AMD Radeon 7670M has a score of 454, so be prepared for a 4x boost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is clear that most of The HP laptop budget is going into that 512 GB m.2 SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to look for another laptop with as high as possible CPU and GPU passmark scores in your price range. Or increase your price range, or be prepared to use this laptop with a shorter useful life span. I think your HP laptop you proposed will be good for 3-7 years as long as the GPU is not used. If you do plan on using that GPU then it is good for 1-3 years. These numbers are rough estimates since I do not know how demanding your workload is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try going for a Dell XPS 15 or HP Envy 14.&#xD;&#xA;It is much better value in terms of what you are getting. As for laptop pricing of the 2 models suggested, it is decent in the USA and Canadian market, but I hope there are no markups in the UK and European markets." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53691" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="f62635b5-3747-405f-80c7-40d9142aa71a" CreationDate="2021-02-17T17:55:17.313" UserId="17109" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your i3-2370M has a single core rating of 1055 and a multicore rating of 1307, so be prepared for a 2x speed increase&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000 and multicore rating of 8000+. Indecent ones are below 2500 and a multicore rating of 4000 or below. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in the CPU anf GPU of other laptops you see online or at your local shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+MX130&amp;id=3890&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your HP's NVIDIA® GeForce® MX130 has a score of 1928 which is horrendous&#xD;&#xA; - However your future workload is unknown so it might be suitable. An average GPU is 10000 and slightly less than 10000 if it is a laptop&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your current AMD Radeon 7670M has a score of 454, so be prepared for a 4x boost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is clear that most of The HP laptop budget is going into that 512 GB m.2 SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to look for another laptop with as high as possible CPU and GPU passmark scores in your price range. Or increase your price range, or be prepared to use this laptop with a shorter useful life span. I think your HP laptop you proposed will be good for 3-7 years as long as the GPU is not used. If you do plan on using that GPU then it is good for 1-3 years. These numbers are rough estimates since I do not know how demanding your workload is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try going for a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Dell XPS 15** comes with Intel i7-10750H and NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 Ti, but pay more to upgrade ram to 16 GB&#xD;&#xA; 2. **HP Envy 14** comes with a Intel i5-1135G7, but pay more to upgrade the ram to 16GB Ram and pay more to upgrade to a NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 Graphics card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are much better value in terms of what you are getting. As for laptop pricing of the 2 models suggested, it is decent in the USA and Canadian market, but I hope there are no markups in the UK and European markets. They all come with 256 GB of m.2 drive, but you can later buy a bigger one in the future for cheap and stick it in as neccessary." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53692" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14604" RevisionGUID="07ed0576-574a-476a-a4ee-1a8fed5e7cc6" CreationDate="2021-02-17T18:00:53.897" UserId="17109" Comment="added 157 characters in body" Text="You might want to know the power rating of your CPU when selecting laptops. There are many metrics to measure this but I like passmark. Particularly the **single-core rating** written in the smallest font, not that big orange multi-core score. Most programs can't use multiple cores to their full extent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So google the name of your processor **10210U** and then type **passmark**, click the first result and now you know a lot more and can compare apples to apples.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-10210U+%40+1.60GHz&amp;id=3542&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Multicore rating = 6548&#xD;&#xA; - Single Thread Rating = 2278&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your i3-2370M has a single core rating of 1055 and a multicore rating of 1307, so be prepared for a 2x speed increase&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most computers these days have a CPU single core of 2500-3000 and multicore rating of 8000+. Indecent ones are below 2500 and a multicore rating of 4000 or below. Think of it like horsepower. Though you don't have an i7, it is a clever scheme to make you spend a lot more money for a bit more speed. It is faster though, no doubt, but a bad value.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Better yet punch in the CPU anf GPU of other laptops you see online or at your local shop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+MX130&amp;id=3890&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Your HP's NVIDIA® GeForce® MX130 has a score of 1928 which is horrendous&#xD;&#xA; - However your future workload is unknown so it might be suitable. An average GPU is 10000 and slightly less than 10000 if it is a laptop&#xD;&#xA; - In comparison your current AMD Radeon 7670M has a score of 454, so be prepared for a 4x boost&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is clear that most of The HP laptop budget is going into that 512 GB m.2 SSD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try to look for another laptop with as high as possible CPU and GPU passmark scores in your price range. Or increase your price range, or be prepared to use this laptop with a shorter useful life span. I think your HP laptop you proposed will be good for 3-7 years as long as the GPU is not used. If you do plan on using that GPU then it is good for 1-3 years. These numbers are rough estimates since I do not know how demanding your workload is.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Try going for a &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. **Dell XPS 15** comes with Intel i7-10750H (Multicore = 12618 Single-core = 2745) and NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 Ti (Score = 7529), but pay more to upgrade ram to 16 GB&#xD;&#xA; 2. **HP Envy 14** comes with a Intel i5-1135G7 (Multicore = 9885 Single-core = 2740), but pay more to upgrade the ram to 16GB and pay more to upgrade to a NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 Graphics card (Score = 7725)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They are much better value in terms of what you are getting. As for laptop pricing of the 2 models suggested, it is decent in the USA and Canadian market, but I hope there are no markups in the UK and European markets&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They all come with the speedy fast 256 GB m.2 drive, but you can later buy a bigger one in the future for cheap and stick it in as neccessary. Unfortunately you cannot do the same for the CPU and GPU so they are the main priority, don't worry about m.2 drive space that much.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Upgrading to 16 GB of ram is really helpful if you have 30-100 Google chrome tabs open, 16 GB is standard nowadays and 8 GB was the standard 5-10 years ago. 32 GB is becoming the future standard, but still 2-5 years till that happens. You can go with with 8 GB and upgrade later on as needed, but ram is cheap for now." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53694" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14571" RevisionGUID="300cab49-b939-468a-b1b5-96fd396e792b" CreationDate="2021-02-18T00:49:21.480" UserId="17077" Comment="update" Text="&#xD;&#xA;     At this very moment this is not an answer, &#xD;&#xA;but I am currently working on building e-drum &#xD;&#xA;connectors into a Rockband 4 xbox one drum set. The wireless drums are the drum brain. I so far have it detecting the input from e-drum and e-symbol. I hope to have the entire set-up working in a week or so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     UPDATE 2/17/21: &#xD;&#xA;I have all 4 drum pads working with E-drums plugged in. Symbols and kickpedal being a problem as they all use 3.5 mm headphone style connectors. Old RB kickpedals and Old RB symbols with the 3.5 mm connecters work. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14571" RevisionGUID="8595bd43-617e-4fcd-a59a-41e47acbb29f" CreationDate="2021-02-18T09:05:02.580" UserId="17077" Comment="added 93 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;     At this very moment this is not an answer, &#xD;&#xA;but I am currently working on building e-drum &#xD;&#xA;connectors into a Rockband 4 xbox one drum set. The wireless drums are the drum brain. I so far have it detecting the input from e-drum and e-cymbal. I hope to have the entire set-up working in a week or so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     UPDATE 2/17/21: &#xD;&#xA;I have all 4 drum pads working with E-drums plugged in. Cymbals and kickpedal being a problem as they all use 3.5 mm headphone style connectors. Old RB kickpedals and Old RB Cymbals with the 3.5 mm connecters work. 2/18/21 I just tested 3 E-Cymbals at once and they worked perfect. Kickpedal only thing left.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53702" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13256" RevisionGUID="65934372-c546-4d6d-b940-b4dd31a5c1ac" CreationDate="2021-02-18T19:02:00.303" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14613" RevisionGUID="6e0c1716-d4b1-46a8-8644-e0aec1cc638c" CreationDate="2021-02-19T07:07:37.030" UserId="17116" Text="Because of the nature of my work, I need a laptop with a big screen, 6-8 cores and a large battery. A network port would be good too, if possible. My budget is about 1200-2500$. But the problem is, I only either find gaming laptops with really expensive GPU's (and that run out of battery incredibly quick because of them, since they are always running) and lots of features I'll never even need  or incredibly expensive design Notebooks that are way above my budget (Like the XPS 17) that often don't even have any usb ports.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So whats a good laptop with some CPU horsepower, that can run for a long time without being plugged in and has a large screen?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14613" RevisionGUID="6e0c1716-d4b1-46a8-8644-e0aec1cc638c" CreationDate="2021-02-19T07:07:37.030" UserId="17116" Text="Whats a good 17 inch work laptop with many cores and a large battery" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14613" RevisionGUID="6e0c1716-d4b1-46a8-8644-e0aec1cc638c" CreationDate="2021-02-19T07:07:37.030" UserId="17116" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14615" RevisionGUID="c3cd5591-e8cc-40d3-a336-fa41f41a384e" CreationDate="2021-02-19T14:58:27.530" UserId="1862" Text="I have a wireless Jabra ANC Headset now (Jabra Evolve2 85)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This way the Linux Bluetooth gets avoided, since there is a custom USB-dongle which speaks to the headset.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But it is not perfect.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My voice sounds a bit strange, compared to much cheaper wired headsets.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I published my story here: https://github.com/guettli/headset" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53742" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14618" RevisionGUID="ea909f1f-f48b-46e0-b55e-878e0fa0e0f8" CreationDate="2021-02-20T09:03:42.557" UserId="17123" Text="I have a Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 that I bought over 10 years ago. It is a large, wireless, ergonomically-shaped mouse (nearly vertical, but not quite as vertical as the Evoluent VerticalMouse):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;| Top view of mouse:| Side view of mouse: |&#xD;&#xA;|:---:|:---:|&#xD;&#xA;|[![][11]][1] | [![][22]][2] |&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is a fantastic mouse. My original is still going strong after all this time, but as I have more than one computer, I'd like to purchase a second one. **Unfortunately, Microsoft has discontinued this mouse, so I am looking for a worthy replacement.**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Apparently, Microsoft's intended successor is the [Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Mouse](https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Sculpt-Ergonomic-Mouse-L6V-00001/dp/B00D68ZVY8). This appears to have a very similar body and build, so is very appealing to me. *However*, it has one serious drawback and one potentially minor flaw:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Inferior back/forward navigation buttons. It doesn't have a forward button at all. It does have a back button, but according to reviews, it's recessed, difficult to press (requires curling your thumb up in a very unergonomic way), and positioned right underneath the &quot;Windows&quot; button (which opens the Start menu). According to most reviewers, even after an adjustment period, they still end up accidentally hitting the Windows button when aiming for the back button. I, like most reviewers, don't need a Windows button on my mouse. I'd remap the Windows button, but it seems Microsoft has thought of that and thus completely disabled the ability to remap this button. I absolutely need back and forward navigation buttons, and I need them to be easily accessible with my thumb, as I use these all the time. I *don't* need a Windows key or any other buttons, but I don't mind if they're there, as long as they don't interfere with the use of the back/forward navigation buttons.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 2. According to at least one reviewer, the Sculpt Ergonomic Mouse is smaller than the Natural Wireless Laser Mouse. This is a minor flaw. Most mice out there in the world are *far* too small for my hands, but this one isn't actually tiny, and I could learn to live with it, even if it isn't *quite* as big as I'd like, since it's still big enough&amp;hellip; If it weren't for the major flaw mentioned above.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Before I shell out an *absurd* amount of money for a ridiculously-overpriced used Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000, can anyone recommend a worthy successor? It must:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - be **vertical** or nearly vertical, to relieve hand strain&#xD;&#xA; - be **large** enough to fill my hand (like the Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 or most any other classic Microsoft IntelliMouse-style mouse, but unlike most other mice on the market today)&#xD;&#xA; - have well-designed, easily accessible **backward and forward navigation buttons** (or buttons that I can remap as such) that are operated with the thumb&#xD;&#xA; - have a **scroll wheel** under the middle finger (just vertical scrolling is sufficient; horizontal tilt is nice)&#xD;&#xA; - be **wireless** (i.e., have no cord; I don't care what kind of wireless technology or how it connects)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am right-handed (obviously, since the Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 is only for right-handed folks). The mouse will primarily be used with Windows machines, but&amp;hellip;it's a mouse, so the platform really doesn't matter. I don't care about the brand. It should go without saying that I want a mouse, not a trackpad, trackpoint, trackball, trackcat, or any other &quot;frame challenge&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXUUU.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [11]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXUUUm.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWyiM.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [22]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWyiMm.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53743" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14618" RevisionGUID="ea909f1f-f48b-46e0-b55e-878e0fa0e0f8" CreationDate="2021-02-20T09:03:42.557" UserId="17123" Text="Replacement for the discontinued Microsoft Natural Wireless Laser Mouse 6000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53744" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14618" RevisionGUID="ea909f1f-f48b-46e0-b55e-878e0fa0e0f8" CreationDate="2021-02-20T09:03:42.557" UserId="17123" Text="&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53745" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="574" RevisionGUID="27149cbb-3285-4e38-acb9-58a3069c5dde" CreationDate="2021-02-20T09:05:10.667" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53746" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14619" RevisionGUID="3f8cd37b-7bd9-4a88-bf02-d104ae4d7f86" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:04:38.313" UserId="17124" Text="So I'm looking for a new keyboard to replace my Microsoft sculpt ergonomic. I really like the sculpt but before the sculpt I had an other Microsoft ergonomic keyboard where one could remap the left spacebar to be backspace. This is such an underestimated feature on ergonomic keyboards!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best candidates so far:&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft sculpt (missing my key feature otherwise perfect), Logitech ergo K860 (missing my key feature, wireless), Matias ergo pro programmable (separate pieces, not wireless, programmable). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; - programmable split spacebar&#xD;&#xA; - wireless&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Big plus otherwise&#xD;&#xA; - separate numpad (this is probably very unusual, )&#xD;&#xA; - One piece (not like matias or ergodox so I can have it in my lap)&#xD;&#xA; - quiet &#xD;&#xA; - TKL (since I mostly do officework I want the mouse closer to the center)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mechanical or not doesn't matter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53747" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14619" RevisionGUID="3f8cd37b-7bd9-4a88-bf02-d104ae4d7f86" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:04:38.313" UserId="17124" Text="Replace Microsoft sculpt. TKL, wireless and programmable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53748" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14619" RevisionGUID="3f8cd37b-7bd9-4a88-bf02-d104ae4d7f86" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:04:38.313" UserId="17124" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53749" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14620" RevisionGUID="f6c585da-1abb-4ca3-9b47-f907bef2f06f" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:56:18.710" UserId="17125" Text="I'm looking for a reliable 4G modem with an RJ45 port (for a device I'd like to connect to the internet) that can be powered by USB (max 1amp, ideally) and doesn't have WiFi (or supports switching it off entirely).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far all I can find is either [modems with ethernet ports that require 12v barrel power][1], or mini/micro USB powered [modems that offer only WiFi][2].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently my best options appear to be devices like these, or an RPi, plus a USB dongle 4G modem:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Portable-Support-Configuration-Required/dp/B00634PLTW/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&amp;keywords=4g+modem+ethernet&amp;qid=1613824332&amp;sr=8-21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.co.uk/GL-iNet-GL-MT300N-V2-Converter-Pre-installed-Performance/dp/B073TSK26W/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&amp;keywords=4g+modem+ethernet&amp;qid=1613824332&amp;sr=8-21&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;...but I'm hoping there's a reliable, affordable all-in-one device out there that meets my requirements with fewer points of failure. By &quot;reliable&quot;, I mean something I can confidently leave in place for a year. By affordable, I mean &lt; £100/$100. Reception strength needn't be more than an average phone's, and bandwidth / ping isn't terribly important either- it's for a low-bandwidth, low-power, always-on application.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-LB2120-100UKS-Broadband-Connection-Automatic/dp/B0793JTXY3&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-Mbps-Wi-Fi-Hotspot-DWR-932/dp/B00OVJDCQ0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&amp;keywords=4g%20modem&amp;qid=1613824710&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNQVQ4RzM3SDhQTlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NTg4OTUzVFc0WUVKTUIwNkdYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMDYwMTcyTTJQTDc5MUxMMkE5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53750" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14620" RevisionGUID="f6c585da-1abb-4ca3-9b47-f907bef2f06f" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:56:18.710" UserId="17125" Text="USB-powered 4G modem with ethernet port, WITHOUT WiFi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53751" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14620" RevisionGUID="f6c585da-1abb-4ca3-9b47-f907bef2f06f" CreationDate="2021-02-20T12:56:18.710" UserId="17125" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53760" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="14620" RevisionGUID="ad353fea-d914-4758-8a37-1f0ec789adfd" CreationDate="2021-02-22T14:08:41.647" UserId="17125" Comment="104" />
  <row Id="53764" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13957" RevisionGUID="f366bf3f-5b48-428f-a6f9-dd4a628537bb" CreationDate="2021-02-22T15:03:25.427" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14624" RevisionGUID="fde24793-a77e-44bb-874a-44a363ebe4c4" CreationDate="2021-02-22T21:14:51.507" UserId="17136" Text="You could use an iPad and this: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Lightning-Digital-AV-Adapter/dp/B009WHV3BM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=lightning+to+hdmi&amp;qid=1614028449&amp;sr=8-3&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or you could use any android tablet and a Chromecast for mirroring.  Works very well." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53768" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14625" RevisionGUID="25244493-bea6-417d-a8c2-2055bb36c3b8" CreationDate="2021-02-22T21:30:58.777" UserId="17136" Text="I know you said you don't want AMD.  I would have agreed with that a couple years ago however, things have changed recently.  AMD has made some major improvements and now is arguably better than Intel.  If you will consider AMD, I found a quite nice laptop for only $1,000&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/Zephyrus-Gaming-GeForce-Windows-GA502IU-ES76/dp/B0863S8HJ3/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=zephyrus+g15&amp;qid=1614029167&amp;sr=8-4&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is a gaming laptop, but it has really good specs, doesn't look that much like a gaming computer, and is still pretty thin considering the specs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53769" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14571" RevisionGUID="5076dd91-794d-4541-9c9a-645dd91b8ec9" CreationDate="2021-02-23T05:40:13.580" UserId="17077" Comment="added 385 characters in body" Text="&#xD;&#xA;     This is a DIY solution, &#xD;&#xA;but I am currently working on building e-drum &#xD;&#xA;connectors into a Rockband 4 xbox one drum set. The wireless drums are the drum brain. I so far have it detecting the input from e-drum and e-cymbal. I hope to have the entire set-up working in a week or so. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     UPDATE 2/17/21: &#xD;&#xA;I have all 4 drum pads working with E-drums plugged in. Cymbals and kickpedal being a problem as they all use 3.5 mm headphone style connectors. Old RB kickpedals and Old RB Cymbals with the 3.5 mm connecters work. 2/18/21 I just tested 3 E-Cymbals at once and they worked perfect. Kickpedal only thing left.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;     UPDATE 2/22/21:&#xD;&#xA;Today I did a test with a game kick pedal but full e drum pads and e cymbals. On Hard difficulty I scored 97% on Ghost of Perdition by Opeth. A pretty difficult song. Frankly the game drum pedal is the weak link but the set performs well. The next step will be to find a way to attach the rb4 drum kit to my drum set frame where the controls are reachable and vibration mitigated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53770" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14597" RevisionGUID="d0b29166-f8c5-4dd8-b024-cf1a0ae64ee6" CreationDate="2021-02-23T05:55:59.323" UserId="16159" Comment="clarification" Text="Are there any tablets that have an upscaled 1080p HDMI output to a 1080p resolution screen?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The intended use is for playing private videos from a tablet to a TV." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53779" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14627" RevisionGUID="38cf03d4-9923-4288-b6cc-e8248ddb6c6a" CreationDate="2021-02-24T20:18:39.770" UserId="6047" Text="You current laptop is actually quite decent, but as you are using a power savings CPU this is likely limiting your compile speed as mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The class of laptop you are looking for is a **workstation laptop**. These are typically sold for use in specialized business contexts. Because of your requirement of no GPU due to battery concerns, this means that we are forced to throw out a significant segment of the market as Gaming laptops are usually going to deliver best bang for the buck for the specs that you desire (e.g. lowest resolution screen to reduce power consumption).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I decided to push your budget in favor of higher quality components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [DELL Precision 7750 Workstation $2,276.67][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel Xeon W-10885M (8 Core, 16MB Cache)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel UHD Graphics (only, Integrated into CPU)**&#xD;&#xA; - **95Whr 6 Cell Li-ion Battery**&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (2x 16GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Generic 256GB SSD (M.2 PCIe NVMe)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I am recommending a laptop you can buy from DELL directly, this configuration is customizable depending on what you want specifically. I've just pre-selected what I suspect you would desire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are seeking to lower the price I found a lower spec-ed configuration on [newegg for $1,174.99][2], but I could only find refurbished laptops of the 17&quot; size variant. At that price point I didn't think you would want to shoulder the risk of the battery already been somewhat worn and therefore sacrificing your battery life. You could also try looking on Amazon, but the spec filtering on there is rather lackluster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A final note I would like to attach, is that if you find the performance to be sufficient, and want to extend battery life, you could installing the [Intel XTU CPU utility][3] and purposefully shorten the turbo boost time (recommended) or try undervolting (not recommended if you value system stability). Note that voltage has a squared relationship with power consumption, while frequency has a linear relationship.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/precision-7750-workstation/spd/precision-17-7750-laptop/xctop775017us_vivp?view=configurations&amp;configurationid=f2a858fd-e92b-4b33-91c3-8f72419a8808&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/gray-dell-precision-7750-mainstream/p/1TS-000A-0CK44?&amp;quicklink=true&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/29183/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53780" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14628" RevisionGUID="69b567d3-8ea1-48d9-bcec-0e92bb3ca87b" CreationDate="2021-02-24T21:44:39.293" UserId="10249" Text="I've just bought a 15.6&quot; external touch monitor (dimensions similar to Surface Book) as I'd like to carry it around occasionally. I'd like to add it to my existing desktop setup for routine use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to add it to some sort of mount for comfort. However, given how light the monitor (~700g) is, it'd be an overkill to use a VESA adaptor. So I've been looking into adding it onto a &quot;scissor spring arm&quot; system instead. Most tablet mounts only go up to iPad Pro size. After much searching, I've finally found one that fits my monitor on Aliexpress (see photos).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The degrees of freedom of this mount is simply amazing. I can swing the arm around when I incline backwards on my PC chair and read comfortably.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The hinges of the scissor arm seem strong enough for the monitor. However, the swivel ball head seems to be the weak spot. It needs to be turned quite tight to feel secure. I'm worried that the current setup won't be very durable. Everything would be perfect if the ball is 30% larger. The only problem is - I can't find many options for monitors of this size.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have any recommendations for a more stable mount with similar freedom of movement?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH26S.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMuNW.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1p0Gg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53781" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14628" RevisionGUID="69b567d3-8ea1-48d9-bcec-0e92bb3ca87b" CreationDate="2021-02-24T21:44:39.293" UserId="10249" Text="Swivel Mount for 15.6&quot; Portable External Monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53782" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14628" RevisionGUID="69b567d3-8ea1-48d9-bcec-0e92bb3ca87b" CreationDate="2021-02-24T21:44:39.293" UserId="10249" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;&lt;monitor-stand&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53784" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14629" RevisionGUID="250560a6-b185-4020-8714-25d1178af51a" CreationDate="2021-02-25T10:06:27.947" UserId="17144" Text="I'm looking for an internet radio device (hardware) wich allows to program timed radio station changes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Example:*  &#xD;&#xA;*- Device plays music from Station A.*  &#xD;&#xA;*- Every full hour, the device changes the radio station to stream the news from Station B.*  &#xD;&#xA;*- After e.g. 15 minutes, the device switches back to Station A.*  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Reason: I really like the music from Station A, but prefer the news from Station B. But I don't want to change the station manually.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anybody knows a device that's able to do this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked devices and their descriptions in online stores, searched for the term &quot;programmable internet radio device&quot; (in english and german) but couldn't find any feature like this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any help is highly appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53785" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14629" RevisionGUID="250560a6-b185-4020-8714-25d1178af51a" CreationDate="2021-02-25T10:06:27.947" UserId="17144" Text="Internetradio device with programmable and automated station change" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53786" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14629" RevisionGUID="250560a6-b185-4020-8714-25d1178af51a" CreationDate="2021-02-25T10:06:27.947" UserId="17144" Text="&lt;automation&gt;&lt;programmable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53798" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14627" RevisionGUID="e958c077-ab87-45cf-9e0f-ce44bf6be655" CreationDate="2021-02-26T21:06:51.743" UserId="6047" Comment="added 8 characters in body" Text="Your current laptop is actually quite decent, but as you are using a power savings CPU this is likely limiting your compile speed as mentioned.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The class of laptop you are looking for is a **workstation laptop**. These are typically sold for use in specialized business contexts. Because of your requirement of no GPU due to battery concerns, this means that we are forced to throw out a significant segment of the market as Gaming laptops are usually going to deliver best bang for the buck for the specs that you desire.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I decided to push your budget in favor of higher quality components.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;## [DELL Precision 7750 Workstation $2,276.67][1] ##&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel Xeon W-10885M (8 Core, 16MB Cache)**&#xD;&#xA; - **Intel UHD Graphics (only, Integrated into CPU)**&#xD;&#xA; - **95Whr 6 Cell Li-ion Battery**&#xD;&#xA; - 32GB RAM (2x 16GB)&#xD;&#xA; - Generic 256GB SSD (M.2 PCIe NVMe)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Because I am recommending a laptop you can buy from DELL directly, this configuration is customizable depending on what you want specifically. I've just pre-selected what I suspect you would desire (e.g. lowest resolution screen to reduce power consumption).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are seeking to lower the price I found a lower spec-ed configuration on [newegg for $1,174.99][2], but I could only find refurbished laptops of the 17&quot; size variant. At that price point I didn't think you would want to shoulder the risk of the battery already been somewhat worn and therefore sacrificing your battery life. You could also try looking on Amazon, but the spec filtering on there is rather lackluster.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;A final note I would like to attach, is that if you find the performance to be sufficient, and want to extend battery life, you could try installing the [Intel XTU CPU utility][3] and purposefully shortening the turbo boost time (recommended) or try undervolting (not recommended if you value system stability). Note that voltage has a squared relationship with power consumption, while frequency has a linear relationship.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/precision-7750-workstation/spd/precision-17-7750-laptop/xctop775017us_vivp?view=configurations&amp;configurationid=f2a858fd-e92b-4b33-91c3-8f72419a8808&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.newegg.com/gray-dell-precision-7750-mainstream/p/1TS-000A-0CK44?&amp;quicklink=true&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/29183/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53807" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9171" RevisionGUID="213025bb-879c-45e5-8892-f1bdd0780463" CreationDate="2021-02-28T01:06:15.813" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53827" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="14620" RevisionGUID="272b5e6c-1899-46de-a2ef-1ba6cdf1a9a0" CreationDate="2021-03-02T16:02:45.317" UserId="-1" Comment="104" />
  <row Id="53832" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9061" RevisionGUID="bee52ea8-b640-4e7f-be8a-f470284916db" CreationDate="2021-03-02T22:00:25.053" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53868" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14656" RevisionGUID="61541b08-7251-4c52-a50d-e64d649ddfb2" CreationDate="2021-03-06T16:20:04.087" UserId="17179" Text="Mh, difficult to summarize... I don't like fat bulky smart watches that only display the time when I wiggle my wrist or press a button.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand, features like motion sensors and whatever on your wrist, and phone notifications, can be helpful at times. I was very interested when learning about the Skagen Jorn Hybrid HR smart watch (a rebranded Fossil HR Hybrid smartwatch), which still looks ok in size, an uses an always-on epaper display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, it seems to require a Fossil online account for everything, even to display local notifications from my phone, or to perform sleep recording, which is a no-go for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;While trying to validate whether this is true, I also learned about the Sigma iD.RUN HR, which claims to also work &quot;offline&quot;, but does not really look like a classical watch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not really looking for recommendations, which by nature are strongly opinion-based, but rather hints which smart watches are there at all which come close to what I have in mind (in descending order of priority/importance):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Does not require an online &quot;Cloud based&quot; account to which it transfers data. (Fetching updates from some server is fine with me.) (Well, at least does not transfer much data during operation, even if it may require the account to set it up.)&#xD;&#xA;1. Looks somewhat like a classical watch, but not too bulky. Mechanical watch hands would be nice, but not mandatory. (The Skagen HR actually looks quite ok in this regard.)&#xD;&#xA;1. Connects to an Android phone (e.g. Bluetooth and/or NFC) and can show notifications and reminders from this phone (and maybe provide a way to dismiss those notifications).&#xD;&#xA;1. Time (and preferrably date) are always readable.&#xD;&#xA;1. Has motion sensors for gimmicks like step counting or sleep tracking.&#xD;&#xA;1. Has even more obscure sensors like pulse/heart rate sensor and/or blood oxygen sensor.&#xD;&#xA;1. Preferrably runs for a week or longer before it requires recharging.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially information about whether a cloud / online account is required, and for which features it's needed / which data is exchanged seems to be really hard to come by. For the Skagen HR, even the tech specs on the website didn't mention the mandatory online account." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53869" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14656" RevisionGUID="61541b08-7251-4c52-a50d-e64d649ddfb2" CreationDate="2021-03-06T16:20:04.087" UserId="17179" Text="&quot;Watch-like&quot; Smart Watch With Android Notification Support but Without Mandatory Cloud Synchronization" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53870" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14656" RevisionGUID="61541b08-7251-4c52-a50d-e64d649ddfb2" CreationDate="2021-03-06T16:20:04.087" UserId="17179" Text="&lt;smart-device&gt;&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53877" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="4128" RevisionGUID="513e8a80-a1dc-4d28-acaf-b4fcde923cc2" CreationDate="2021-03-07T13:07:00.607" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53894" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6945" RevisionGUID="5fdabb1e-6ee7-4330-b3b2-390ebe29c1e2" CreationDate="2021-03-08T15:06:55.723" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53899" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14666" RevisionGUID="265e55fd-f0c2-40a1-9c67-2dfe6bdfa1db" CreationDate="2021-03-08T17:35:54.093" UserId="17136" Text="The [Pebble 2 HR][1] is the watch you are looking for!  I had the Pebble Time for a year and it lasted over a week on a single charge.  The Time does not have heart rate, however, so if you want heart rate, get the Pebble 2 HR.  It sends notifications from Android and iOS, counts your steps, and much more.  The only reason I got rid of it was because I got an Apple Watch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only hiccup is the company went out of business two years ago, but a company called [Rebble][2] resumed web services and now they are 100% functional again!  You just have to add a couple of steps while setting it up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for the cloud sync, it does sync your apps and health data to Rebble, but not an excessive amount of data is sent.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall the Pebble is an amazing smartwatch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pebble-2-Heart-Rate-Black-Flame-Polycarbonate-Case-Classic-Buckle/293793268686?epid=230273555&amp;hash=item44677183ce:g:BrMAAOSw2zpfuK44&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://rebble.io/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53900" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14667" RevisionGUID="f186d24a-b685-45e0-81f8-ae0be049a22d" CreationDate="2021-03-09T00:25:44.897" UserId="527" Text="I'm looking for a cost-efficient tablet just to watch videos.  So the most important things are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Great screen, at least 25cm (10&quot;) diameter, viewable at a reasonably wide angle (an angle similar to an average modern-day computer monitor)&#xD;&#xA;2. Smooth video playback&#xD;&#xA;3. WiFi (any type is fine, but prefer at least 802.11b)&#xD;&#xA;4. Sufficient battery life to play 2 hours of video non-stop&#xD;&#xA;5. Speakers that sound good for human voices (if they work good for TED talks, they will work good for all my uses, which does include a few TED talks). Stereo speakers would be *real* nice, but are not a hard requirement.&#xD;&#xA;6. Prefer something not too heavy, but I don't have specific weight requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most of the videos are available on YouTube or YouTube clones.  The rest of the videos are stored as files, which I can convert to any open format before temporarily placing them on the tablet to watch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't need to store a whole bunch of videos on the tablet at any one time.  The longest video that will be watched is likely 2 hours long.  For anything longer, I can plug it in to a charger.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm completely open to any operating system, even obscure ones.  Compatibility with any OS version is fine: I don't require compatibility with the &quot;latest-and-greatest&quot; OS version, as I'm just going to be using it to watch videos.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't have a specific price range in mind; I would simply like to spend as little as possible while meeting all the above requirements.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Leading up to this posting question, I bought an inexpensive tablet, and the screen was so awful I had to send the tablet back.  The brightness of the screen was so low it was hard to see and you had to line up your eyes within a few degrees perpendicular to the plane of the screen to see the content.  On top of that, the resolution was so bad I could easily see each pixel." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53901" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14667" RevisionGUID="f186d24a-b685-45e0-81f8-ae0be049a22d" CreationDate="2021-03-09T00:25:44.897" UserId="527" Text="Low cost tablet just to watch videos with at least a 25cm (10&quot;) screen - any OS" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53902" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14667" RevisionGUID="f186d24a-b685-45e0-81f8-ae0be049a22d" CreationDate="2021-03-09T00:25:44.897" UserId="527" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;&lt;audio-quality&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53912" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="203" RevisionGUID="9b83ad34-8a97-4e30-aadd-1f66e78454dc" CreationDate="2021-03-09T08:06:35.590" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="53967" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14670" RevisionGUID="0ba84e2e-d986-45fe-8d52-801a181dc4c2" CreationDate="2021-03-10T04:22:51.393" UserId="17136" Text="A [Kindle Fire HD 10][1] seems like a good option for your needs.  It has a 1080p screen, stereo speakers, and WiFi.  I'm not sure how good the battery life is, but the listing advertises 12 hours of mixed usage, so it should hit the 2-hour goal just fine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can use the YouTube website to stream videos, but if you need the YouTube app on it, you can sideload it pretty easily (I've done it if you need help :D) .&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you are willing to get a [refurbished model][2], they are $40 cheaper.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Fire-HD-10/dp/B07K1RZWMC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=kindle%20fire%2010&amp;qid=1615349861&amp;sr=8-2&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Refurbished-Fire-HD-10-Tablet/dp/B01MEG2HXP/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=kindle%20fire%2010&amp;qid=1615350070&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="53983" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14619" RevisionGUID="9dae2cc3-7811-4d18-b638-ec320ee9384b" CreationDate="2021-03-12T11:40:36.837" UserId="17124" Comment="added 32 characters in body" Text="So I'm looking for a new keyboard to replace my Microsoft sculpt ergonomic. I really like the sculpt but before the sculpt I had an other Microsoft ergonomic keyboard where one could remap the left spacebar to be backspace. This is such an underestimated feature on ergonomic keyboards!  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Best candidates so far:&#xD;&#xA;Microsoft sculpt (missing my key feature otherwise perfect), Logitech ergo K860 (missing my key feature, wireless), Matias ergo pro programmable (separate pieces, not wireless, programmable). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA; - Ergonomic&#xD;&#xA; - programmable split spacebar&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Big plus otherwise&#xD;&#xA; - wireless (moved from req. to simplify)&#xD;&#xA; - separate numpad (this is probably very unusual, )&#xD;&#xA; - One piece (not like matias or ergodox so I can have it in my lap)&#xD;&#xA; - quiet &#xD;&#xA; - TKL (since I mostly do officework I want the mouse closer to the center)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mechanical or not doesn't matter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54028" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14244" RevisionGUID="8fe9b32f-987b-449c-a78d-98f7b87e0bc4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:03:00.310" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54050" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14696" RevisionGUID="3a16c219-98ec-4aea-8292-6f2dca28c48a" CreationDate="2021-03-16T17:10:54.357" UserId="9588" Text="I do have a suggestion because you didn't mention price. The Asus PQ22UC is the best in this category I've seen and I've been researching this for a [decade](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/1080p-travel-monitor.603212/) now. It has a super neat folding stand which lifts it off the table and it's thin as a blade. The price is a whole another problem. I dearly wish a monitor in this physical format was available with a cheaper panel. A much, _much_ cheaper panel at that. You could knock off a zero from the price and it still would be expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I fly with the Sharp LL-201A in my carry on, any old tripod you can find with a removable ballhead and the [K&amp;M 19685](https://www.k-m.de/en/products/multimedia-equipment/holders/19685-adapter-for-screens-black/19685-300-55) adapter, the only even remotely affordable VESA - to -tripod  preferably in checked in luggage but it fits in carry on too, it's just awkward." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54051" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14696" RevisionGUID="f4055ed3-92b7-49f9-bdf4-91bac6be2668" CreationDate="2021-03-16T17:17:08.673" UserId="9588" Comment="added 43 characters in body" Text="I do have a suggestion because you didn't mention price. The Asus PQ22UC is the best in this category I've seen and I've been researching this for a [decade](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/1080p-travel-monitor.603212/) now. It has a super neat folding stand which lifts it off the table and it's thin as a blade. The price is a whole another problem. I dearly wish a monitor in this physical format was available with a cheaper panel. A much, _much_ cheaper panel at that. You could knock off a zero from the price and it still would be expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I fly with the Sharp LL-201A in my carry on, any old tripod you can find with a removable ballhead and the [K&amp;M 19685](https://www.k-m.de/en/products/multimedia-equipment/holders/19685-adapter-for-screens-black/19685-300-55) adapter, the only even remotely affordable VESA - to -tripod  preferably in checked in luggage but it fits in carry on too, it's just awkward. GearGrip makes good protective carry bags." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54052" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14697" RevisionGUID="e8d63a7a-3e94-4c2f-859b-0f97a82a316e" CreationDate="2021-03-16T23:04:44.030" UserId="527" Text="Ideally, all cell phones would have integrated functionality to record calls.  After all, they directly handle all the audio of the calls, and have plenty of storage to save them.  Plus, the phone knows the Caller ID and contact information, and so can easily add meta data.  Finally, the phone knows exactly when the call began and ended, and can add that meta data as well.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, many smartphones have no integrated functionality to record calls.  And when they do, often the manufacturer disables it at the factory (I'm looking at you, Samsung).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are many Android apps available to record calls, but most of them have severe limitations, especially with recent versions of Android (Google has reportedly made it even harder to record our own phone calls.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm seeking recommendations for hardware to record cell phone conversations.  Ideally, it won't require the use of a headset, but I'm not 100% opposed to that option.  Also, I would really prefer it to not require any wires.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only product I've found so far is the [Waytronic WT-RS1 mobile phone call recording headset][1]. It, however, has several significant flaws:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. It requires the use of the headset, so if you have an incoming call, and you don't have your headset with you, you're out of luck.&#xD;&#xA; 2. Their most &quot;deluxe&quot; version has only a paltry 512MB of storage (that's MB, not GB!).&#xD;&#xA; 3. I haven't been able to find any information that indicates that it stores any useful metadata, such as the phone number, contact name, or timestamp of the call.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Ideally, I would like a small Bluetooth or WiFi device with a microSD card that can fit in my pocket to record all calls and their metadata.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*Note: Call recording is legal in my jurisdiction.*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001922874826.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54053" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14697" RevisionGUID="e8d63a7a-3e94-4c2f-859b-0f97a82a316e" CreationDate="2021-03-16T23:04:44.030" UserId="527" Text="Device to record cell phone calls from an Android smartphone" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54054" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14697" RevisionGUID="e8d63a7a-3e94-4c2f-859b-0f97a82a316e" CreationDate="2021-03-16T23:04:44.030" UserId="527" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;microphones&gt;&lt;audio-recording&gt;&lt;telephony&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54062" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14700" RevisionGUID="00f9fa4f-6cae-49af-887d-b354f2fedcdd" CreationDate="2021-03-17T10:12:56.457" UserId="17236" Text="Crodeon from Belgium offers several weather sensors that can be combined as you like. Their technology is cloud-first, so things like API access or Excel export are included by default. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Seems to work all over Europe. The gateway (called Reporter) is €499 and the weather sensor is €189 with a subscription of €15 /month. The webshop contains quite some sensors:&#xD;&#xA;https://www.crodeon.com/collections&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Solar power is optional and they guarantee a measurement interval of up to 30 seconds. I don't see the solar energy sensor to you request but maybe you could reach out to them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They use GSM so no worries about exposing your wifi connection." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54066" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14700" RevisionGUID="00e1f405-bb8a-49da-b8ce-e78db42d2c8d" CreationDate="2021-03-17T13:53:39.147" UserId="17236" Comment="deleted 250 characters in body" Text="I've used the [Crodeon][1] weather station and they offer a Rest API by default. Worked really well for me. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Solar power is optional and your can configure a measurement interval of up to 30 seconds. I don't see the solar energy sensor that you request but maybe you could reach out to them?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They use GSM so no worries about exposing your wifi connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.crodeon.com&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54070" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14167" RevisionGUID="fa920bc2-05c7-4eec-ae46-d3c095cbfd9c" CreationDate="2021-03-17T15:04:00.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54077" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14704" RevisionGUID="7896bb23-6d25-49ac-b3ee-40d6be906cf1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T08:46:27.507" UserId="17244" Text="I am looking for a fitness tracker. All the usual features: heart rate, sleep, step counter, IP67, clock, alarm, etc, etc. Longer battery life is a bonus, so black &amp; white display is preferable to colo(u)r.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I see some now which also claim to measure blood pressure, and am somewhat skeptical.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am especially skeptical of those which claim to count calories. Are there any which are even close to accurate? Let's say +/- 10%&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If so, I am looking for a recommendation. If not, then without. But, with blood pressure, if accurate. Otherwise, standard features, preferably with black &amp; white display/long battery life.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hmmm, is there also an answer with GPS? I don't _really_ need it, as I have a Garmin Forerunner for running, but I am bit of a gadget junkie, so would like to know my options :-)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54078" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14704" RevisionGUID="7896bb23-6d25-49ac-b3ee-40d6be906cf1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T08:46:27.507" UserId="17244" Text="Fitness tracker with calorie counter" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54079" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14704" RevisionGUID="7896bb23-6d25-49ac-b3ee-40d6be906cf1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T08:46:27.507" UserId="17244" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54080" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14705" RevisionGUID="b92e2c9e-28b5-4044-87e0-2495b4ba2d77" CreationDate="2021-03-18T09:52:22.403" UserId="1410" Text="I doubt that you will find such gloves (***please***, post here if you do). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On the other hand (see what I did there?) [programmable wristbands](http://www.lilygo.cn/claprod_view.aspx?TypeId=21&amp;Id=1282&amp;FId=t28:21:28) go for about  $18, with BLE, but I am not sure if that would get you the accuracy that you want.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But, wait, that is based on the EPS32, which generally has an accelerometer and 6 axis motion sensor. If the LilyGo does to, there are other wristband options (such as the [M5Stack](https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Megapixel-Micropython-Recognition-Detection/dp/B082Y6YTY5)) and/or it would be easy to add one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LilyGo:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;M5Stack:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that the M5stack also has a Grove connector, allowing you to add 300+ sensors &amp; controllers by plug &amp; play, no soldering required.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be interested to hear what you think about this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, while this is the correct site for this question, please be aware that we now have a [Internet of Things](https://iot.stackexchange.com/) sister site, which might be of interest.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PflsP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rODkG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54081" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14706" RevisionGUID="78007dc9-4b98-4c71-9e51-02f711ce3df6" CreationDate="2021-03-18T14:12:58.107" UserId="1410" Text="$14.95 will get you [this](https://m5stack-store.myshopify.com/products/stick):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has a plug &amp; play Grove connector, so you can easily add on [GPS](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000494209347.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.740c5589SzuFmP&amp;algo_pvid=0655a1a4-a42e-4e66-952e-747ceef679ce&amp;algo_expid=0655a1a4-a42e-4e66-952e-747ceef679ce-0&amp;btsid=2100bb5116160762560866373ec4ef&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_) for a further $12.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If you can live without GPS, or can solder, then I also recommend LilyGo.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They have a slim [wristband](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000550284680.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.252e3f9cKVjjPh&amp;algo_pvid=968b998a-dee8-46be-bacb-dc495cada521&amp;algo_expid=968b998a-dee8-46be-bacb-dc495cada521-4&amp;btsid=0b0a0ac216160764316683134e28ff&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_), like an activity tracker for about $20:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and a [wristwatch](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000971508364.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.252e3f9cKVjjPh&amp;algo_pvid=968b998a-dee8-46be-bacb-dc495cada521&amp;algo_expid=968b998a-dee8-46be-bacb-dc495cada521-0&amp;btsid=0b0a0ac216160764316683134e28ff&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_) with a larger screen for about $25:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All three of these are ESP32 based, so have WiFi and BlueTooth, and are fully programmable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If, like me, you are allergic to soldering, the M5stack has a Grove connector which allows plug &amp; play of 300+ sensors, motors, etc&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlDLP.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZMpDX.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq2KY.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54082" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14707" RevisionGUID="4383179a-d44b-46df-beff-7ddd68304ddd" CreationDate="2021-03-18T14:24:10.587" UserId="1410" Text="Sorry, this grew too big to be a comment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;NFC does not give any indication of distance. Weeeell, I suppose that theoretically you could try to measure signal strength - from expansive active RFID, not NFC, tags, not cheap passive tags - but that is absolutely not off the shelf &amp; would require a great deal of expertise, eve if it is doable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;BLE 5.1+ has the option of Angle of Arrival/Departure which allow location to within 1cm (which might also mot be accurate enough), so that seems to be your best bet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My question [BLE 5.1 wearable dev board](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/13654/ble-5-1-wearable-dev-board) has received no answers, though :-(" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54083" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="1551" RevisionGUID="5b5f69d1-f836-4318-80ef-7f34631a0ad4" CreationDate="2021-03-18T15:01:20.117" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54088" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="6038" RevisionGUID="6f7d2777-3188-41ca-a8a8-c0dd767c46b7" CreationDate="2021-03-18T17:15:03.120" UserId="84" Comment="Fixed TrackR link" Text="Just came across another option: [TrackR](https://www.thetrackr.com/) are little sub-$30 transponders with a one-year battery life, though apparently they depend on a device running their app to come within 100 feet of the transponder to update its location." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54095" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10811" RevisionGUID="af4c6637-cf73-4862-801b-62054a1b4155" CreationDate="2021-03-19T08:02:20.210" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54185" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14719" RevisionGUID="12d4b2c6-2713-4256-a8e2-88f5fa300c01" CreationDate="2021-03-22T16:30:34.547" UserId="17264" Text="I have several WiFi radios (Logitech, Ocen Digital) but all of them lack the ability to configure them programmatically.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am looking for a WiFi radio (the simplest, the better) that would **allow for an HTTP-based configuration**:&#xD;&#xA; - switching it on /off (a must)&#xD;&#xA;- ability to select a station/stream as (a nice to have)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The ideal situation would be where the configuration is done directly n the radio, but accessing a cloud &quot;command center&quot; is fine too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54186" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14719" RevisionGUID="12d4b2c6-2713-4256-a8e2-88f5fa300c01" CreationDate="2021-03-22T16:30:34.547" UserId="17264" Text="Wi-Fi radio with an API" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54187" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14719" RevisionGUID="12d4b2c6-2713-4256-a8e2-88f5fa300c01" CreationDate="2021-03-22T16:30:34.547" UserId="17264" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;audio&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54189" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14720" RevisionGUID="eb724a4e-6353-4f83-b296-9937a80c4502" CreationDate="2021-03-22T17:09:24.843" UserId="17263" Text="An E-reader that's similar in size to the ReMarkable that you mentioned is the *BOOX note air*. It is pen compatible, has a shared display options(book one side notes on the other for example) and can sync both with note taking apps as well as some cloud options. from what I can tell it seems to be made with your requirements in mind&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is the *Kobo libra*. It lacks some of the features, most notably a pen, and it's a bit smaller but it's also way cheaper and still pretty big for an e-reader. Due to the way the screen works I think it's also compatible with a passive stylus. I don't have the tablet on hand right now but I'll be able to check later&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I do have to warn you. I've tried using an e-reader as an alternative for text books a while ago and while it worked for some books. Others were just entirely incompatible. Technology has improved in the last couple of years but don't be surprised if you still have to buy a couple of regular books because of compatibility issues." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54190" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14720" RevisionGUID="fb671509-2449-444d-ade3-0736b5844fa4" CreationDate="2021-03-22T19:48:41.423" UserId="17263" Comment="deleted 158 characters in body" Text="An E-reader that's similar in size to the ReMarkable that you mentioned is the *BOOX note air*. It is pen compatible, has a shared display options(book one side notes on the other for example) and can sync both with note taking apps as well as some cloud options. from what I can tell it seems to be made with your requirements in mind&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Another option is the *Kobo libra*. It lacks some of the features, most notably a pen, and it's a bit smaller but it's also way cheaper and still pretty big for an e-reader.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However I do have to warn you. I've tried using an e-reader as an alternative for text books a while ago and while it worked for some books. Others were just entirely incompatible. Technology has improved in the last couple of years but don't be surprised if you still have to buy a couple of regular books because of compatibility issues." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54191" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14696" RevisionGUID="363f22ce-183c-4b35-8773-6a92b64e6d5a" CreationDate="2021-03-23T04:20:36.507" UserId="9588" Comment="added 352 characters in body" Text="I do have a suggestion because you didn't mention price. The Asus PQ22UC is the best in this category I've seen and I've been researching this for a [decade](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/1080p-travel-monitor.603212/) now. It has a super neat folding stand which lifts it off the table and it's thin as a blade. The price is a whole another problem. I dearly wish a monitor in this physical format was available with a cheaper panel. A much, _much_ cheaper panel at that. You could knock off a zero from the price and it still would be expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I fly with the Sharp LL-201A in my carry on, any old tripod you can find with a removable ballhead and the [K&amp;M 19685](https://www.k-m.de/en/products/multimedia-equipment/holders/19685-adapter-for-screens-black/19685-300-55) adapter, the only even remotely affordable VESA - to -tripod  preferably in checked in luggage but it fits in carry on too, it's just awkward. GearGrip makes good protective carry bags.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: this answer just got outdated. Gechic has released the On-Lap 2101H in Asian markets and support told me they plan to release it in North America in 3Q 2021 as component shortage allows. Although the lack of VESA holes makes it even more challenging than usual to raise it to an ergonomic height, it is a very interesting product nonetheless." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54192" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14696" RevisionGUID="b3a5265f-347e-44b1-a9ff-8c3f17547ad1" CreationDate="2021-03-23T06:13:02.073" UserId="9588" Comment="added 51 characters in body" Text="I do have a suggestion because you didn't mention price. The Asus PQ22UC is the best in this category I've seen and I've been researching this for a [decade](http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/1080p-travel-monitor.603212/) now. It has a super neat folding stand which lifts it off the table and it's thin as a blade. The price is a whole another problem. I dearly wish a monitor in this physical format was available with a cheaper panel. A much, _much_ cheaper panel at that. You could knock off a zero from the price and it still would be expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Currently I fly with the Sharp LL-201A in my carry on, any old tripod you can find with a removable ballhead and the [K&amp;M 19685](https://www.k-m.de/en/products/multimedia-equipment/holders/19685-adapter-for-screens-black/19685-300-55) adapter, the only even remotely affordable VESA - to -tripod  preferably in checked in luggage but it fits in carry on too, it's just awkward. GearGrip makes good protective carry bags.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Edit: this answer just got outdated. Gechic has released the On-Lap 2101H in Asian markets and support told me they plan to release it in North America in 3Q 2021 as component shortage allows. Alas it does not have VESA mounting holes -- which are necessary to raise the monitor to an ergonomic height using a tripod but there are cheap kits to adapt any monitor to VESA (for example from Mount-It)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54222" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10432" RevisionGUID="aa04307b-9385-4ad3-a9c2-465954ee7828" CreationDate="2021-03-26T10:07:25.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54225" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14732" RevisionGUID="d7e5bf9e-d477-432e-9b83-0cccb0a62f56" CreationDate="2021-03-26T19:39:54.753" UserId="17136" Text="The Pebble 2 HR is the watch you are looking for! I had the Pebble Time for a year and it lasted over a week on a single charge. The Time does not have heart rate, however, so if you want heart rate, get the Pebble 2 HR. It sends notifications from Android and iOS, counts your steps, and much more. The only reason I got rid of it was because I got an Apple Watch.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only hiccup is the company went out of business two years ago, but a company called Rebble resumed web services and now they are 100% functional again! You just have to add a couple of steps while setting it up.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Overall the Pebble is an amazing smartwatch." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54229" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14734" RevisionGUID="5c8f27c2-236b-45dd-bd4b-0719eb5dd228" CreationDate="2021-03-28T10:47:12.497" UserId="5398" Text="Since my Vega64 just went up in smoke, I've recently bought a 6900XT GPU (damn you scalpers) and am thinking about upgrading my monitor to go with it. I've been using a Dell Ultrasharp 1440p for a while, but it's just a bog-standard office monitor so the tearing is unbelievable and I'm noticing it more and more now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have the horsepower, I'm thinking of going to 4k, but I am torn, since I don't seem to be able to find a monitor with just the right combo of the following ideal specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High refresh rate (120Hz or above, not bothered about it being 144Hz specifically, nor any kind of overclocking)&#xD;&#xA; - 4K ideally (or at least a leap up from 2160x1440, particularly if the screen will be physically larger).&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2ms response times&#xD;&#xA; - 27&quot; to ~38&quot; panel, ideally a 32 or 24&quot;.&#xD;&#xA; - Not a super-ultrawide, but no less than 3440x1600 if it's a widescreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a bit constrained by space, so I think I've decided that a 32&quot; 4K flat or curved panel would be ideal, but there just do not seem to be any 4K high-refresh rate 32&quot; panels out there at the moment. Does anyone have recommendations for this - or know if any are on the horizon in 2021?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I'm struggling to find the above, I'm considering a ultrawidescreen at 1600 vertical such as the LG 38GL950G, however, these are expensive and possibly a bit large for my space. Alternatively, the 'safe' option is a direct swap for another 27&quot; 4K flat panel such as the LG 27GN950, which seems to be *the* gaming monitor of choice at the moment (but no stock anywhere  ).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in effect, I'm trying to find a happy medium for the above. Any recommendations/personal anecdotes welcome.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54230" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14734" RevisionGUID="5c8f27c2-236b-45dd-bd4b-0719eb5dd228" CreationDate="2021-03-28T10:47:12.497" UserId="5398" Text="Monitor upgrade candidates (hi res, hi refresh rate?)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54231" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14734" RevisionGUID="5c8f27c2-236b-45dd-bd4b-0719eb5dd228" CreationDate="2021-03-28T10:47:12.497" UserId="5398" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;4k&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54232" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14735" RevisionGUID="1deef03a-2593-4d22-9e5b-69c92bfc7c97" CreationDate="2021-03-28T10:50:43.267" UserId="5398" Text="Actually ended up (sort of) solving this in a fairly low tech way as I detailed at the end of the OP. I used a Y-splitter from the PC output and laptop output into the 'green' channel, so they are both connected simultaneously.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, this doesn't allow for full use of the surround, but I get stereo plus sub via the green channel with my speaker set up so this is good enough for me while using the laptop anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Just thought I'd post to offer some closure to the thread." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54233" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14734" RevisionGUID="a453feb9-4fcd-45fb-bf7d-1e23c68d16e5" CreationDate="2021-03-28T10:59:26.427" UserId="5398" Comment="added 101 characters in body" Text="Since my Vega64 just went up in smoke, I've recently bought a 6900XT GPU (damn you scalpers) and am thinking about upgrading my monitor to go with it. I've been using a Dell Ultrasharp 1440p for a while, but it's just a bog-standard office monitor so the tearing is unbelievable and I'm noticing it more and more now.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I have the horsepower, I'm thinking of going to 4k, but I am torn, since I don't seem to be able to find a monitor with just the right combo of the following ideal specs:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - High refresh rate (120Hz or above, not bothered about it being 144Hz specifically, nor any kind of overclocking)&#xD;&#xA; - 4K ideally (or at least a leap up from 2160x1440, particularly if the screen will be physically larger).&#xD;&#xA; - 1-2ms response times&#xD;&#xA; - 27&quot; to ~38&quot; panel (28-32&quot; being ideal I think).&#xD;&#xA; - Not a super-ultrawide, but no less than 3440x1600 if it's a widescreen.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am a bit constrained by space, so I think I've decided that a 32&quot; 4K flat or curved panel would be ideal, but there just do not seem to be any 4K high-refresh rate 32&quot; panels out there at the moment. Does anyone have recommendations for this - or know if any are on the horizon in 2021?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I'm struggling to find the above, I'm considering a ultrawidescreen at 1600 vertical such as the LG 38GL950G or 38GN950, however, these are expensive and possibly a bit large for my space. Alternatively, the 'safe' option is a direct swap for another 27&quot; 4K flat panel such as the LG 27GN950, which seems to be *the* gaming monitor of choice at the moment (but no stock anywhere  ). The Samsung Odyssey line up is compelling too, but no 4K offerings at the moment.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in effect, I'm trying to find a happy medium for the above. Any recommendations/personal anecdotes welcome.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54234" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14736" RevisionGUID="edba4e22-e953-411a-85f2-635a3ed45e4e" CreationDate="2021-03-29T15:01:37.260" UserId="16513" Text="I am looking for a new external monitor to connect to various laptops. My use case here is home office, not gaming.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * 27 to 32 inch (bigger is better).&#xD;&#xA; * Adjustable height for ergonomical reasons.&#xD;&#xA; * Audio jack so I can connect headphones.&#xD;&#xA; * Full HD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonuses:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Built in speakers.&#xD;&#xA; * Built in USB-hub.&#xD;&#xA; * Built in webcam.&#xD;&#xA; * Resolutions above full HD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not important:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; * Fancy refreash rates, response times or ultra pro gaming features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have been browsing through the websites of major Swedish reatilers, without finding a single monitor fulfilling the requirements. The adjustable height seems to be the major problem." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54235" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14736" RevisionGUID="edba4e22-e953-411a-85f2-635a3ed45e4e" CreationDate="2021-03-29T15:01:37.260" UserId="16513" Text="Monitor with adjustable height for home office?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54236" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14736" RevisionGUID="edba4e22-e953-411a-85f2-635a3ed45e4e" CreationDate="2021-03-29T15:01:37.260" UserId="16513" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54272" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13746" RevisionGUID="860db6fe-7af4-476f-94fe-78d146ad499a" CreationDate="2021-03-29T18:21:31.833" UserId="2097" Comment="added 129 characters in body" Text="Use for questions related to Chromebook only. Use tags of [tag:laptop] or [tag:pc] if your question pertains to those devices. &#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54273" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13746" RevisionGUID="860db6fe-7af4-476f-94fe-78d146ad499a" CreationDate="2021-03-29T18:21:31.833" Comment="Proposed by 2097 approved by 203, 57 edit id of 1113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54304" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14741" RevisionGUID="73589f03-b2b8-4806-989d-964f04548df3" CreationDate="2021-03-30T15:50:15.183" UserId="18313" Text="I look for a headset to use with my Android phone and PC. Here are the criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. No wires. I already have a headset with one earbud torn off the wire.&#xD;&#xA;2. Fastening to auricle with a hook or something like that. Being just put into ear canal earbuds tend to fall out.&#xD;&#xA;3. No need to put deep into ear canal. I'm fed up with cleaning earwax off the earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;4. Microphone&#xD;&#xA;5. Not too expensive. $100 for a headset looks too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[BackBeat FIT 3200][1] matches p.1-4. But TWS isn't very handy if you need to free your ear quickly for a minute or two. You can't just pull the earbud out and let it hang on the wire. Furthermore, BackBeat FIT 3200 is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a first glance AirPods look even worse as they don't match p.2. But [ear hooks][2] can be bought separately. There are even a [strap][3] that lets AirPods to be quickly pulled out the ear. It doesn't transmit any signal so it will be no harm if the strap is torn off an earbud. Unfortunately, the hooks and the strap don't look they can be fitted at the same time. EarHooks look like intended to be tied up with some cord (there is a hole on each hook). But I haven't found such cord. And AirPods are even more expensive than BackBeat FIT 3200 and doesn't make much sense for me as I use an Android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some AirPods analogs like [Mi True Wireless Earphones 2][4] but I don't know if they're compatible with AirPod Strap or EarHooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the qustions are:&#xD;&#xA;1. Is there some cord to tie up the EarHooks?&#xD;&#xA;2. Are there AirPod-like TWS headsets with accessories similar to AirPod Strap and EarHooks or compatible with them?&#xD;&#xA;3. Are there options matching the criteria other than the &quot;AirPod-like-TWS-with-hooks-and-straps&quot;?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.poly.com/us/en/support/product/backbeat-fit-3200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.elago.com/earhooks-1/airpods-earhooks-white&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.elago.com/strap-1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.mi.com/ru/mi-true-wireless-earphone-2-basic/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54305" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14741" RevisionGUID="73589f03-b2b8-4806-989d-964f04548df3" CreationDate="2021-03-30T15:50:15.183" UserId="18313" Text="Handy wireless headset with good fastening to ears" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54306" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14741" RevisionGUID="73589f03-b2b8-4806-989d-964f04548df3" CreationDate="2021-03-30T15:50:15.183" UserId="18313" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54307" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14742" RevisionGUID="1fdb57e0-792d-41e3-a240-fc840d79a0c2" CreationDate="2021-03-30T21:45:43.167" UserId="17136" Text="I have the Dell U2417H and love it.  It has the swivel feature so you can use it in either landscape or portrait, a USB 3.0 hub (4 3.0 outputs), can be adjusted up and down, and the image quality is fantastic.  I would highly recommend it.  I found a 27&quot; QHD model [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/UltraSharp-U2719D-Display-Pixel-Opaco/dp/B07JGSPQV2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=u2719&amp;qid=1617140682&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54308" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14742" RevisionGUID="51c65129-3a97-4eae-a7a0-11dbe5c31e62" CreationDate="2021-03-30T22:09:14.570" UserId="17136" Comment="added 26 characters in body" Text="I have the Dell U2417H and love it.  It has the swivel feature so you can use it in either landscape or portrait, has a USB 3.0 hub (4 3.0 outputs), has a headphone jack, can be adjusted up and down, and the image quality is fantastic.  I would highly recommend it.  I found a 27&quot; QHD model [here][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/UltraSharp-U2719D-Display-Pixel-Opaco/dp/B07JGSPQV2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=u2719&amp;qid=1617140682&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54309" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14741" RevisionGUID="8e1d4276-8663-43d1-ac5d-98f5cb683179" CreationDate="2021-03-31T02:09:57.483" UserId="8" Comment="deleted 289 characters in body" Text="I look for a headset to use with my Android phone and PC. Here are the criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. No wires. I already have a headset with one earbud torn off the wire.&#xD;&#xA;2. Fastening to auricle with a hook or something like that. Being just put into ear canal earbuds tend to fall out.&#xD;&#xA;3. No need to put deep into ear canal. I'm fed up with cleaning earwax off the earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;4. Microphone&#xD;&#xA;5. Not too expensive. $100 for a headset looks too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[BackBeat FIT 3200][1] matches p.1-4. But TWS isn't very handy if you need to free your ear quickly for a minute or two. You can't just pull the earbud out and let it hang on the wire. Furthermore, BackBeat FIT 3200 is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a first glance AirPods look even worse as they don't match p.2. But [ear hooks][2] can be bought separately. There are even a [strap][3] that lets AirPods to be quickly pulled out the ear. It doesn't transmit any signal so it will be no harm if the strap is torn off an earbud. Unfortunately, the hooks and the strap don't look they can be fitted at the same time. EarHooks look like intended to be tied up with some cord (there is a hole on each hook). But I haven't found such cord. And AirPods are even more expensive than BackBeat FIT 3200 and doesn't make much sense for me as I use an Android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some AirPods analogs like [Mi True Wireless Earphones 2][4] but I don't know if they're compatible with AirPod Strap or EarHooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.poly.com/us/en/support/product/backbeat-fit-3200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.elago.com/earhooks-1/airpods-earhooks-white&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.elago.com/strap-1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.mi.com/ru/mi-true-wireless-earphone-2-basic/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54314" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13768" RevisionGUID="6f0a8630-dea7-44c6-a414-1f90f145736b" CreationDate="2021-03-31T03:02:30.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54316" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14744" RevisionGUID="e7f0e4d7-34b2-499c-8c1b-71a33e4b3381" CreationDate="2021-03-31T06:14:03.230" UserId="18318" Text="I am deciding between 2 buying a desktop(Specs at the Bottom) or creating a Raspberry Pi Cluster(10-15) to help me run computations for my stock analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Raspberry Pi Cluster seems to be cheaper and has better specs. But performance wise it may be different. So I was wondering if anyone has advice on this matter. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Desktop Specs**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 10th Generation Intel® Core™ i5-10500T 8GB &#xD;&#xA;- 1x8GB, DDR4 non-ECC&#xD;&#xA;- Memory M.2 256GB PCIe NVMe Class 35 Solid State Drive" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54317" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14744" RevisionGUID="e7f0e4d7-34b2-499c-8c1b-71a33e4b3381" CreationDate="2021-03-31T06:14:03.230" UserId="18318" Text="Would a 10 Rasberry Pi Cluster or a Desktop be able to run computations better?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54318" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14744" RevisionGUID="e7f0e4d7-34b2-499c-8c1b-71a33e4b3381" CreationDate="2021-03-31T06:14:03.230" UserId="18318" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54319" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14741" RevisionGUID="3cbc347a-5f2a-4ce5-8c6c-a9e33aa69d24" CreationDate="2021-03-31T14:42:35.490" UserId="18313" Comment="deleted 2 characters in body" Text="I look for a headset to use with my Android phone and PC. Here are the criteria:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. No wires. I already have a headset with one earbud torn off the wire.&#xD;&#xA;2. Fastening to auricle with a hook or something like that. Being just put into ear canal earbuds tend to fall out.&#xD;&#xA;3. No need to put deep into ear canal. I'm fed up with cleaning earwax off the earbuds.&#xD;&#xA;4. Microphone&#xD;&#xA;5. Not too expensive. $100 for a headset looks too much for me.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[BackBeat FIT 3200][1] matches p.1-4. But TWS isn't very handy if you need to free your ear quickly for a minute or two. You can't just pull the earbud out and let it hang on the wire. Furthermore, BackBeat FIT 3200 is too expensive.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;At a first glance AirPods look even worse as they don't match p.2. But [ear hooks][2] can be bought separately. There's even a [strap][3] that lets AirPods to be quickly pulled out the ear. It doesn't transmit any signal so it will be no harm if the strap is torn off an earbud. Unfortunately, the hooks and the strap don't look they can be fitted at the same time. EarHooks look like intended to be tied up with some cord (there is a hole on each hook). But I haven't found such cord. And AirPods are even more expensive than BackBeat FIT 3200 and doesn't make much sense for me as I use an Android phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are some AirPods analogs like [Mi True Wireless Earphones 2][4] but I don't know if they're compatible with AirPod Strap or EarHooks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.poly.com/us/en/support/product/backbeat-fit-3200&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.elago.com/earhooks-1/airpods-earhooks-white&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.elago.com/strap-1&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.mi.com/ru/mi-true-wireless-earphone-2-basic/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54320" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14745" RevisionGUID="a76ad10a-c46f-4150-816e-5b60b6708a48" CreationDate="2021-03-31T22:07:43.237" UserId="16513" Text="AOC has some models that fulfill all the requirements, and the bonuses except the webcam. They can be found [here](https://eu.aoc.com/se/monitors/professional-solutions/28-inch/27-inch/32-inch/usb-hub/speakers). The [AOC Q27P2Q](https://eu.aoc.com/se/monitors/q27p2q) is one example." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54322" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14747" RevisionGUID="d79a044a-743d-4940-bb49-854525baf5e6" CreationDate="2021-03-31T23:42:03.907" UserId="17281" Text="I'd like to build a [workstation][1] with a minimum of 6 1080p screens. &#xD;&#xA;The GTX 1050 Ti has a max resolution of 7680x4320; this should suffice for future upgrades. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If we're splitting the workloads by the 80-20 rule:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;80%: Confined to web browsing, potentially offline office applications (MS word, electron apps like Slack). The intention is to keep many tabs open, so this may be a consideration if hardware acceleration is of significant enough benefit to warrant a better GPU. Unlikely to have more than a single active youtube video at a time, though likely a fair few cached / in suspended processes. Video calls are quite likely, though I'm under the impression encoders/decoders are their own circuits that don't compete with other functions. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;20%: 1-2 instances of a LaTeX editor, MATLAB or Python open; a mix of data visualisation, numerical analysis or agent based simulations. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Monitors: The plan is for an arrangement similar to the [financial rigs at Optiver][2]. &#xD;&#xA;Depending on cost-effectiveness, I may move to having fewer screens of higher resolutions. &#xD;&#xA;I'm not averse to the dual graphics cards, however the price increases in computer hardware have been disportionately larger amongst GPUs. I'm unsure how concerned I should be of supply availability. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Workstation&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.google.com/search?q=optiver%20multiple%20monitors&amp;tbm=isch&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjLs86H2NvvAhVzluYKHU6uApEQ2-cCegQIABAA&amp;oq=optiver%20multiple%20monitors&amp;gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQGFChnAFYhLABYISxAWgBcAB4AIABxAKIAcgakgEIMC4xMy4zLjGYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&amp;sclient=img&amp;ei=JAZlYMuRA_OsmgfO3IqICQ&amp;bih=649&amp;biw=1366&amp;rlz=1CAGUZK_enAU947#imgrc=1pOcU3y2lXiiDM" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54323" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14747" RevisionGUID="d79a044a-743d-4940-bb49-854525baf5e6" CreationDate="2021-03-31T23:42:03.907" UserId="17281" Text="Workstation running 8 screens" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54324" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14747" RevisionGUID="d79a044a-743d-4940-bb49-854525baf5e6" CreationDate="2021-03-31T23:42:03.907" UserId="17281" Text="&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;multiple-monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54325" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13279" RevisionGUID="da832a56-6e56-4cb4-86c2-7d4476f00996" CreationDate="2021-04-01T00:04:25.633" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54326" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14748" RevisionGUID="0039e46c-8ce3-4c08-a43d-d469fab575b3" CreationDate="2021-04-01T09:42:21.623" UserId="17263" Text="The gtx 1050ti supports a maximum of four monitors in any configuration. so the minimum of 6 screens will not be obtainable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In theory the maximum supported resolution should be divisible properly, for example in 4, 3840x2160(4k) monitors. If you are limited in physical connections. DisplayPort supports daisy chaining. The monitor does need a supported DisplayPort out to support this as well though." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54327" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14749" RevisionGUID="6cb8b6a1-1d3f-426b-8731-70ec15e8e40b" CreationDate="2021-04-01T10:11:48.767" UserId="17263" Text="Laptops with a full size keyboard exist but are few and far between due to the actual size limitations of the laptops.&#xD;&#xA;there are only two that I know of that come close.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The acer predator X21, it's a full size keyboard, however the numpad is low profile and reversible so you can use it as a trackpad.&#xD;&#xA;this is a 21 inch curved monitor &quot;laptop&quot;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only one that I can think of that is even close to what you describe is the DELL XPS M2010 and even that one moved the arrow keys to make room for a touch pad.&#xD;&#xA;The laptop In question is 20 inch.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54328" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14750" RevisionGUID="d22aba5e-7b0f-45bb-a37c-51c3aef81a62" CreationDate="2021-04-01T18:41:46.490" UserId="18343" Text="I still remember to this day, my first ever MP3 player. It was a Matsui MAT101MR and I used to have it back in 2001. Problem is, I can't find one anywhere on ebay or anything. Does anyone know where I could get one?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thx,&#xD;&#xA;Depths :3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54329" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14750" RevisionGUID="d22aba5e-7b0f-45bb-a37c-51c3aef81a62" CreationDate="2021-04-01T18:41:46.490" UserId="18343" Text="My nostalgia dream" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54330" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14750" RevisionGUID="d22aba5e-7b0f-45bb-a37c-51c3aef81a62" CreationDate="2021-04-01T18:41:46.490" UserId="18343" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;music&gt;&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54332" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14751" RevisionGUID="0f6ad88a-4c2e-49cb-bd38-89dd85a6aea6" CreationDate="2021-04-03T15:11:25.967" UserId="18349" Text="I do physical reverse engineering work, keyboard pushed to the back of the desk and the product and my tools in front of me. I'm constantly reaching over all this just to use the keypad, so a separate keypad I can sit on my armrest would be ideal. Problem is I also need to use the shift key constantly, and I can't find a number pad that has one. Is there an easy way I could remap the &quot;back&quot; key on this keypad to a shift key?&#xD;&#xA;[amazon][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Portable-Financial-Accounting-Rechargeable/dp/B088D1GRFJ/ref=pd_di_sccai_5?pd_rd_w=8NNfu&amp;pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&amp;pf_rd_r=KSES0NQKKTRDS8SVV80V&amp;pd_rd_r=22c846cb-1c83-437b-a1f2-ac6059313439&amp;pd_rd_wg=3jBft&amp;pd_rd_i=B088D1GRFJ&amp;psc=1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54333" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14751" RevisionGUID="0f6ad88a-4c2e-49cb-bd38-89dd85a6aea6" CreationDate="2021-04-03T15:11:25.967" UserId="18349" Text="AUX keypad for CAD work" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54334" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14751" RevisionGUID="0f6ad88a-4c2e-49cb-bd38-89dd85a6aea6" CreationDate="2021-04-03T15:11:25.967" UserId="18349" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54335" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14752" RevisionGUID="30f3e2ac-37e7-4085-b876-be57fab294d4" CreationDate="2021-04-03T21:46:32.993" UserId="1410" Text="Asking for a  friend. There is not a huge selection of Braille watches, but there are a few.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Braille watch that does not look like a watch? Just a slim wrist-wrap, like a fitness tracker or something? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small is good. Tactile is necessary. 12 hour markers around a circular face are not. Looking like a watch is not. Also, sound is is not; just some slim thing on the wrist to quickly run a finger over and know the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternative to a wristband are acceptable; maybe a ring, key-fob, etc. Just not looking like a traditional watch. Could even be carried in a pocket, as opposed to worn on the wrist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus if it is solar powered and/or can be auto-synched from an atomic clock or [NTP](http://www.ntp.org/), although that seems incredibly unlikely.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54336" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14752" RevisionGUID="30f3e2ac-37e7-4085-b876-be57fab294d4" CreationDate="2021-04-03T21:46:32.993" UserId="1410" Text="Slim Braille watch,which does not look like a watch" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54337" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14752" RevisionGUID="30f3e2ac-37e7-4085-b876-be57fab294d4" CreationDate="2021-04-03T21:46:32.993" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;watch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54338" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14752" RevisionGUID="16ccd44d-06e7-4b6c-83a8-c3449ad24f9a" CreationDate="2021-04-03T21:52:49.393" UserId="1410" Comment="added 271 characters in body" Text="Asking for a  friend. There is not a huge selection of Braille watches, but there are a few.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Braille watch that does not look like a watch? Just a slim wrist-wrap, like a fitness tracker or something? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small is good. Tactile is necessary. 12 hour markers around a circular face are not. Looking like a watch is not. Also, sound is is not; just some slim thing on the wrist to quickly run a finger over and know the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternative to a wristband are acceptable; maybe a ring, key-fob, etc. Just not looking like a traditional watch. Could even be carried in a pocket, as opposed to worn on the wrist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus if it is solar powered and/or can be auto-synched from an atomic clock or [NTP](http://www.ntp.org/), although that seems incredibly unlikely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like [this 10 year old KickStart project](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1294391907/haptica-braille-watch) would be ideal, although slimmer would be preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCZKf.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54339" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14752" RevisionGUID="e1e2b00e-61ac-465f-895e-57fa850b98e6" CreationDate="2021-04-03T21:59:22.883" UserId="1410" Comment="added 99 characters in body" Text="Asking for a  friend. There is not a huge selection of Braille watches, but there are a few.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a Braille watch that does not look like a watch? Just a slim wrist-wrap, like a fitness tracker or something? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Small is good. Tactile is necessary. 12 hour markers around a circular face are not. Looking like a watch is not. Also, sound is is not; just some slim thing on the wrist to quickly run a finger over and know the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternative to a wristband are acceptable; maybe a ring, key-fob, etc. Just not looking like a traditional watch. Could even be carried in a pocket, as opposed to worn on the wrist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bonus if it is solar powered and/or can be auto-synched from an atomic clock or [NTP](http://www.ntp.org/), although that seems incredibly unlikely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Something like [this 10 year old KickStart project](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1294391907/haptica-braille-watch) would be ideal, although slimmer would be preferable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Even better ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;.. but - something that can actually be bought.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCZKf.png&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZYmn.png&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvwbP.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54340" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13518" RevisionGUID="78ad7820-3803-45af-997e-9cf1b5d77a75" CreationDate="2021-04-03T22:00:00.143" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54341" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14753" RevisionGUID="ef259fe3-483c-4c9f-a5d7-ac583594a5bf" CreationDate="2021-04-04T04:55:14.327" UserId="18352" Text="I am looking for a wireless mouse that has continuous scroll. Mostly i find wheels that have a discrete movement and are not sensible to small turns in the scroll. I would like that even an small amount of change in the scroll wheel to result in a small scrolling in the display, and a smooth spinning wheel, free of this markdowns as well. How can i know if a mouse has this feature or not? what is the name of it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I found this &quot;infinite scroll&quot; technology that probably does what i want but its not exactly the same, as far as i understood. Also the examples of such mouses i've seen are Logitech G series, specifically G305, which have small size and wouldn't fit for me. I've also found that Logitech M510 has a wheel that moves &quot;freely enough&quot; but i'm not sure what this means exactly. So i'm looking for recommendations of a wireless mouse with this feature for big hands or some information that leads me to it. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54342" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14753" RevisionGUID="ef259fe3-483c-4c9f-a5d7-ac583594a5bf" CreationDate="2021-04-04T04:55:14.327" UserId="18352" Text="Mouse with continuous scrolling" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54343" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14753" RevisionGUID="ef259fe3-483c-4c9f-a5d7-ac583594a5bf" CreationDate="2021-04-04T04:55:14.327" UserId="18352" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54344" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14753" RevisionGUID="3942b5c6-be41-405c-a7a4-1dd46fef137d" CreationDate="2021-04-04T05:10:42.553" UserId="18352" Comment="added 49 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a wireless mouse that has continuous scroll. Mostly i find wheels that have a discrete movement and are not sensible to small turns in the scroll. I would like that even an small amount of change in the scroll wheel to result in a small scrolling in the display, and a smooth spinning wheel, free of this markdowns as well. How can i know if a mouse has this feature or not? what is the name of it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; I found this &quot;infinite scroll&quot; technology that probably does what i want but its not exactly the same, as far as i understood. Also the examples of such mice i've seen are Logitech G series, specifically G305, which people say have small size and wouldn't fit for me, although it seems to be not that small. I've also found that Logitech M510 has a wheel that moves &quot;freely enough&quot; but i'm not sure what this means exactly. So i'm looking for recommendations of a wireless mouse with this feature for big hands or some information that leads me to it. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54345" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14754" RevisionGUID="83970269-4d30-4b69-97cc-d4c4278a782e" CreationDate="2021-04-04T12:26:37.677" UserId="14139" Text="I'm not sure which place is the right one for my problem,so,please,excuse-me if I made a mistake writing here. Anyway,I want to try to ask. I'm trying to build a system to snore less and I've found this guide as starting point :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.hackster.io/stanton/smart-snoring-correction-028e79&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway,I can't do exactly the same. First of all because some time ago I've bought the jetson nano instead of the raspberry pi and I would like to save some money using that board. Luckily it seems that I can,at least,use one of these devices with the jetson nano :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.distrelec.biz/en/respeaker-mic-array-v2-seeed-studio-107990053/p/30109517&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.seeedstudio.com/ReSpeaker-USB-Mic-Array-p-4247.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem is that they used the &quot;neosensory-buzz&quot;,that costs 800 dollars. I can't afford this price. I'm looking for a similar device,that's able to accomplish the same task of the neosensory-buzz,without upsetting the tutorial. The author of the project suggested to me to buy this component :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RXS17H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_EAVMH36ND7AF05YZWBGX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately it will not work. I read the reviews. People say :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Be advised, works with Apple products only! Otherwise a very useful little gadget&quot; ; &quot; I wish I had read other reviews... it is not compatible with new phones. It is outdated and unusable. I had to return&quot; ; &quot; App is no longer available- useless&quot; ; &quot; Wouldnt work with the superior samsung phone. It did work with a crapple but we dont own crapple at my place&quot; (I have a samsung phone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So,I need to replace the neosensory buzz with a similar but cheaper device that can be used with the other hardware components,like the jetson nano and the seeed respeaker (better if it is the usb version). I forgot to say that the Amplifier / Pulse that I'm looking for should work on my Android / Samsung note 3 phone, it should be controllable via ble. Let me know,thanks.&#xD;&#xA;0 comments&#xD;&#xA;1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54346" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14754" RevisionGUID="83970269-4d30-4b69-97cc-d4c4278a782e" CreationDate="2021-04-04T12:26:37.677" UserId="14139" Text="I'm looking for an Amplifier / Pulse which works on my Android phone, BLE enabled Vibration and Sound Alarm / Timer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54347" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14754" RevisionGUID="83970269-4d30-4b69-97cc-d4c4278a782e" CreationDate="2021-04-04T12:26:37.677" UserId="14139" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;internet-of-things&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54348" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14754" RevisionGUID="3e01d915-7793-4157-a30f-f2413e76e099" CreationDate="2021-04-04T12:32:13.287" UserId="14139" Comment="deleted 15 characters in body" Text="I'm not sure which place is the right one for my problem,so,please,excuse-me if I made a mistake writing here. Anyway,I want to try to ask. I'm trying to build a system to snore less and I've found this guide as starting point :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.hackster.io/stanton/smart-snoring-correction-028e79&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway,I can't do exactly the same. First of all because some time ago I've bought the jetson nano instead of the raspberry pi and I would like to save some money using that board. Luckily it seems that I can,at least,use one of these devices with the jetson nano :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.distrelec.biz/en/respeaker-mic-array-v2-seeed-studio-107990053/p/30109517&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.seeedstudio.com/ReSpeaker-USB-Mic-Array-p-4247.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem is that they used the &quot;neosensory-buzz&quot;,that costs 800 dollars. I can't afford this price. I'm looking for a similar device,that's able to accomplish the same task of the neosensory-buzz,without upsetting the tutorial. The author of the project suggested to me to buy this component :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RXS17H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_EAVMH36ND7AF05YZWBGX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately it will not work. I read the reviews. People say :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Be advised, works with Apple products only! Otherwise a very useful little gadget&quot; ; &quot; I wish I had read other reviews... it is not compatible with new phones. It is outdated and unusable. I had to return&quot; ; &quot; App is no longer available- useless&quot; ; &quot; Wouldnt work with the superior samsung phone. It did work with a crapple but we dont own crapple at my place&quot; (I have a samsung phone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So,I need to replace the neosensory buzz with a similar but cheaper device that can be used with the other hardware components,like the jetson nano and the seeed respeaker (better if it is the usb version). I forgot to say that the Amplifier / Pulse that I'm looking for should work on my Android / Samsung note 3 phone, it should be controllable via ble. Let me know,thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54349" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14755" RevisionGUID="fc2da8ab-d592-4885-8459-7f99523cc463" CreationDate="2021-04-04T13:08:52.837" UserId="17251" Text="Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX (I own 3) has a physical button that turns &quot;detents&quot; on and off. When in the free running position, one slightly faster than normal flick of your finger will make the mousewheel spin for almost 20 seconds (i think they originally called this Hyperscroll, but can't find a reference to it now). It is a large mouse. Uses rechargeable or replaceable AA battery (for me a nice feature). A third party program allows even more settings than normal. Google &quot;uberOptions&quot;.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The MX Master (version 1? Only tried a friends one) free-runs automatically when the mousewheel goes over a certain speed and reverts back to detented under that speed. It has a manual (non mechanical) override button too and from memory the speed threshold can be set. (called Magspeed). At the time I tried it (18+? months ago) the setting software was a new system and annoyingly dumbed down... they claimed they were going to add features, but I don't know the status now. Used a proprietary rechargeable battery, advantage longer use time, disadvantage you can't just pop another battery in when it dies on you. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Logitech has a &quot;Smooth Scrolling&quot; plugin for Firefox, but it didn't work well for me when I first tried it over 2 years ago (apparently conflicted with my 3D mouse). Also, apparently doesn't work with their gaming mice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note there's a setting in Windows for the amount of lines scrolled per wheel increment... I believe it's 3 by default, but you may prefer less by the sound of it.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54350" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14754" RevisionGUID="2933b006-3ddf-49e0-8f02-1cba7c1fac1c" CreationDate="2021-04-04T13:38:16.473" UserId="14139" Comment="added 266 characters in body" Text="I'm not sure which place is the right one for my problem,so,please,excuse-me if I made a mistake writing here. Anyway,I want to try to ask. I'm trying to build a system to snore less and I've found this guide as starting point :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.hackster.io/stanton/smart-snoring-correction-028e79&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Anyway,I can't do exactly the same. First of all because some time ago I've bought the jetson nano instead of the raspberry pi and I would like to save some money using that board. Luckily it seems that I can,at least,use one of these devices with the jetson nano :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.distrelec.biz/en/respeaker-mic-array-v2-seeed-studio-107990053/p/30109517&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.seeedstudio.com/ReSpeaker-USB-Mic-Array-p-4247.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The real problem is that they used the &quot;neosensory-buzz&quot;,that costs 800 dollars. I can't afford this price. I'm looking for a similar device,that's able to accomplish the same task of the neosensory-buzz,without upsetting the tutorial. The author of the project suggested to me to buy this component :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RXS17H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_EAVMH36ND7AF05YZWBGX&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately it will not work. I read the reviews. People say :&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;Be advised, works with Apple products only! Otherwise a very useful little gadget&quot; ; &quot; I wish I had read other reviews... it is not compatible with new phones. It is outdated and unusable. I had to return&quot; ; &quot; App is no longer available- useless&quot; ; &quot; Wouldnt work with the superior samsung phone. It did work with a crapple but we dont own crapple at my place&quot; (I have a samsung phone).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So,I need to replace the neosensory buzz with a similar but cheaper device that can be used with the other hardware components,like the jetson nano and the seeed respeaker (better if it is the usb version). I forgot to say that the Amplifier / Pulse that I'm looking for should work on my Android / Samsung note 3 phone, it should be controllable via ble. Let me know,thanks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;PS : I found this : &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.amazon.com/iLuv-SmartShaker-Vibration-Bluetooth-Notification/dp/B08V6QCBTS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=vibration%2Balarm%2Bbluetooth&amp;qid=1617541958&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1 ; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;can someone tell me if it can work in this scenario,thanks." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54357" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14758" RevisionGUID="22b0636e-cafd-4fbf-b6da-43105426804b" CreationDate="2021-04-05T22:05:46.763" UserId="9588" Text="As of 1H 2021 no cheap USB hubs exist which would pass the DisplayPort signal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Some hubs are the same as old USB hubs, they take USB signals and emit USB signals and do nothing else. This time, they might do it at 10gbps speed and offer two or four USB C ports. Some examples include the Tripp-lite U460-004-2A2C-2, IOgear GUH3C22P, Sitecom CN-386 (rare C only hub), Lindy 43093, Delock 64054. The Belkin F4U090btBLK (the names just roll off the tongue!), C2G 26914 and Sitecom CN-388 advertises 5gbps speed only.&#xD;&#xA;1. USB C, however, can operate in various Alternate Modes, in practice only DisplayPort and Thunderbolt Alternate Modes are used. People wanting to connect a USB C monitor to a USB C hub couldn't really do it for the longest time as hubs didn't pass the DisplayPort signal to a downstream port. Bidirectional USB C - DisplayPort cables and adapters worked around the problem but if one wanted power as well then the selection was really limited and costly: Belkin Charge and Sync Cable for Huawei VR Glass and the Wacom Link Plus. The Dell WD19 was a rare -- so far the only known -- example of a hub that did pass DisplayPort signal to downstream.&#xD;&#xA;1. Thunderbolt was a different animal as all downstream ports work in DisplayPort alternate mode whether on a host or on a hub. When TB3 launched, it used the USB C connector and the USB C Alternate Mode but if a host was not TB3 capable, a TB3 hub wouldn't work. However, when Intel released the Titan Ridge chipset, these hosts suddenly worked with a TB3 hub. So for a non-TB3 host, one new possibility is using a TB3 hub with a Titan Ridge chipset and plug a USB C monitor into it. Some hubs also offered data only USB C ports as well, confirmed to be 10gbps. The HP Thunderbolt Dock 120W G2 and the Dell WD19TB was tested but I strongly suspect all Titan Ridge docks are capable of doing this.&#xD;&#xA;2. The Intel Goshen Ridge chipset released end of 2020 is even more capable. It's the first TB4/USB 4 chipset for devices (reminder: TB4 is nothing but USB4 with every optional feature made required). Hubs building on this chipset have several (3-4) fully capable downstream USB C ports and can route all signals to any ports. There also might be data only USB C port(s) too. It is also backwards compatible meaning even if the host is not even TB3 capable but supports DP Alt mode / MFDP then a USB C monitor can be plugged into any of the downstream ports. At the time of this writing, there are no hubs with built in MST hub so only the first such will get the DisplayPort signal passed to it. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Benson Leung tested the capabilities of the Titan / Goshen Ridge chipsets, I just typed it up." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54358" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13538" RevisionGUID="396b8385-dc02-43e5-9a4d-bfc62f4f32f4" CreationDate="2021-04-05T22:05:50.533" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54364" PostHistoryTypeId="19" PostId="1598" RevisionGUID="aba61f20-3c5e-46c8-a383-5128f998e759" CreationDate="2021-04-06T11:28:00.913" UserId="-1" Text="{&quot;Voters&quot;:[{&quot;Id&quot;:-1,&quot;DisplayName&quot;:&quot;Community&quot;}]}" />
  <row Id="54368" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14760" RevisionGUID="36a63748-cb44-424f-bbfb-7c35c80fd14b" CreationDate="2021-04-06T18:44:41.623" UserId="18363" Text="The mechanical keyboard height has been a problem for me a developer, I am always have to use wrist rest because otherwise I find myself lifting my wrists in order to achieve a comfortable typing position, but the problem is that having lifted wrists causes me a lot of pain when typing for long periods of time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a developer I do recommend mechanical keyboards they can be very solid, feel great and can last for many years, and can even be customizable, which is a beautiful hobby.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope it help you, and take care of your wrists!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54369" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="5c383b15-e51f-457e-b933-6a8a90047113" CreationDate="2021-04-06T21:01:44.997" UserId="10628" Text="I'm currently using Logitech G915 mechanic keyboard. But due to the pandemic we've many video meetings. The noise from G915 can be heard from other attendants so I got complained. I don't want to mute myself every time I try to search something during meeting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for a quiet keyboard with good typing feedbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Quiet &#xD;&#xA; 2. Backlit &#xD;&#xA; 3. Good Feedback&#xD;&#xA; 4. Preferably Black Color&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54370" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="5c383b15-e51f-457e-b933-6a8a90047113" CreationDate="2021-04-06T21:01:44.997" UserId="10628" Text="Best Quite Keyboard for video conference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54371" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="5c383b15-e51f-457e-b933-6a8a90047113" CreationDate="2021-04-06T21:01:44.997" UserId="10628" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54373" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="10512" RevisionGUID="30b1fc82-bb5e-4ae2-b328-21a181e1093d" CreationDate="2021-04-06T21:05:55.690" UserId="10628" Comment="added 173 characters in body" Text="I'm looking for an Intel CPU with higher core and suitable for programming. Aspects are as follows,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Aspects:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Frequency&#xD;&#xA; - Cores/Threads&#xD;&#xA; - Can run multiple Virtual Machines ( I think this needs RAM)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I don't care power consumption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54374" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="115c4a27-58e1-444f-8363-ed1335081879" CreationDate="2021-04-07T16:54:34.640" UserId="17136" Comment="Fixed spelling in title " Text="Best Quiet Keyboard for video conference?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54375" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="115c4a27-58e1-444f-8363-ed1335081879" CreationDate="2021-04-07T16:54:34.640" Comment="Proposed by 17136 approved by 10628 edit id of 1171" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54377" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14764" RevisionGUID="6f664dae-88ab-4faf-95f7-0c7168f727e6" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:35:07.020" UserId="14412" Text="I want to keep hold of my current 42” smart hd tv for now and buy a 4K / blu ray / 3D / hdr player and a sound bar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My tv has an audio optical input.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My blu ray player has an audio optical output which I plug into my tv, it also has connectors and speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve looked at sound bars and 4K players and they both have a single audio optical port.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to still be able to watch stuff on my smart tv apps (Netflix etc). And from my Apple TV.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So not just watch I want to use these with the sound bar and a new player.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is how will my tv smart apps, Apple TV and 4K player play sound through a sound bar if one device doesn’t have 2 audio optical ports?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54378" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14764" RevisionGUID="6f664dae-88ab-4faf-95f7-0c7168f727e6" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:35:07.020" UserId="14412" Text="How can a sound bar play sound with single optical ports multiple devices?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54379" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14764" RevisionGUID="6f664dae-88ab-4faf-95f7-0c7168f727e6" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:35:07.020" UserId="14412" Text="&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;4k&gt;&lt;sound-system&gt;&lt;blu-ray&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54380" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14765" RevisionGUID="f53f3b47-d126-422a-ad3c-a2fbc22f630d" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:41:11.973" UserId="18373" Text="Most manufacturers of NAS appliances (like [Synology](https://www.synology.com/en-global/compatibility?search_by=products&amp;model=DS212%2B&amp;category=hdds_no_ssd_trim&amp;p=1) etc) have compatibility lists that sum up which hard drives are compatible with their models. How important is it to follow these? Are all SATA drives created equal, but are some drives more equal than others?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there drives that consume power out of spec? Or generate more heat than the enclosure can dissipate? What are the considerations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm asking this from the Home and Small Business, entry-level device, perspective. My experience with building computers is that if the form factor fits the enclosure and the connector fits, it always Just Works™." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54381" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14765" RevisionGUID="f53f3b47-d126-422a-ad3c-a2fbc22f630d" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:41:11.973" UserId="18373" Text="How important are HDD compatibility lists for NAS appliances?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54382" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14765" RevisionGUID="f53f3b47-d126-422a-ad3c-a2fbc22f630d" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:41:11.973" UserId="18373" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;nas&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54383" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14766" RevisionGUID="53016ce9-43b8-498d-a959-1363f45c46e3" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:50:21.837" UserId="18373" Text="If you connect everything up through HDMI, it should work fine. I myself only use one optical connection from my TV to my receiver, because my receiver pre-dates HDMI. So the audio data from my PS4 goes through HDMI to the TV which passes it through the TOS-link to the receiver. I haven't encountered any problems with codecs. All codecs that the receiver supports work and otherwise it just falls back to PCM channels.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So in short, I don't think you will even need optical connections, since you are buying them all new." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54384" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14656" RevisionGUID="81bfb231-3d8b-4934-ba9d-db7ee237db76" CreationDate="2021-04-08T08:08:15.827" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54387" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14767" RevisionGUID="41c46efd-0ed6-4c9c-90aa-1a80786f1ad4" CreationDate="2021-04-09T10:25:18.280" UserId="10148" Text="Something like this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://sea.pcmag.com/tablets/40732/lenovo-thinkpad-x1-fold&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Open architecture means I will be using someone else keyboard and mouse. I think it'll be bluetooth base. So I do not want something that already come with it's own keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Fit in pocket so I can easily bring it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;OS would be windows I guess. Or can run windows program. Or perhaps android. Both will be great. Something that can run both will be awesome. Actually, why not just tell me which one is best. Lots of work does not require windows anymore anyway.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No need 2 in one that comes with keyboard. On outside I will use tablet mode, at my home I will use my own keyboard and mouse.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Resolution is 1920 1080 minimum.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have camera and phone access will be great. So it can replace my phone.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My daughter may use it to draw stuffs but I think I want to use 3rd party pens." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54388" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14767" RevisionGUID="41c46efd-0ed6-4c9c-90aa-1a80786f1ad4" CreationDate="2021-04-09T10:25:18.280" UserId="10148" Text="Please recommend me an open architecture fit in pocket foldable tablet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54389" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14767" RevisionGUID="41c46efd-0ed6-4c9c-90aa-1a80786f1ad4" CreationDate="2021-04-09T10:25:18.280" UserId="10148" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54390" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14768" RevisionGUID="14dd33d9-e051-4ea1-94b9-3af899c4b64c" CreationDate="2021-04-09T17:53:34.387" UserId="10648" Text="Some drives are not intended to be used in RAID.  &#xD;&#xA;The reasons can vary. Sometimes drives are just not built to run 24/7 and will die prematurely in a hot RAID box. Another concern is whether the hard drive firmware has a bug or incompatibility with certain SATA or RAID controllers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The drives tested by the NAS manufacturer are confirming that the RAID controller in the NAS and the drive firmware do not have any incompatibility. There are always going to be drives that were never considered though, and could be completely fine in that NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the more important features that a hard drive can optionally support for RAID is [TLER or CCTL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Error_recovery_control). When a drive doesn't have this it may lead to &quot;critical&quot; errors showing up in the NAS when a drive just takes a little too long to respond. (So the NAS thinks it's dead.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54391" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14768" RevisionGUID="a25979a5-e631-4d14-8d87-a68af527e189" CreationDate="2021-04-09T18:07:43.380" UserId="10648" Comment="deleted 10 characters in body" Text="Some drives are not intended to be used in RAID.  &#xD;&#xA;The reasons can vary. Sometimes drives are just not built to run 24/7 and will die prematurely in a hot RAID box. Another concern is whether the hard drive firmware has a bug or incompatibility with certain SATA or RAID controllers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The manufacturer's compatibility list is confirming that the RAID controller in the NAS and the drive firmware do not have any incompatibility. There are always going to be drives that were never considered though, and could be completely fine in that NAS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;One of the more important features that a hard drive can optionally support for RAID is [TLER or CCTL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Error_recovery_control). When a drive doesn't have this it may lead to false-positive critical errors showing up in the NAS when a drive takes just a little too long to respond. (So the NAS thinks it's dead.)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54395" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14770" RevisionGUID="e64c0ed2-174e-4d14-9547-8c2e9f5cbf09" CreationDate="2021-04-09T20:10:05.350" UserId="18384" Text="Let's say I have a USB-C connection used in alternate mode, which is used to connect my notebook with a docking station and carries USB 3, video data as well as network connectivity. &#xD;&#xA;What are my options to extend the cable length beyond 5 meters without significant signal loss? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There a some active cables and fiber bridges out there. But was is the most feasible option for such a scenario? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Many thanks! " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54396" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14770" RevisionGUID="e64c0ed2-174e-4d14-9547-8c2e9f5cbf09" CreationDate="2021-04-09T20:10:05.350" UserId="18384" Text="Maximum length of Thunderbolt / USB-C cable" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54397" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14770" RevisionGUID="e64c0ed2-174e-4d14-9547-8c2e9f5cbf09" CreationDate="2021-04-09T20:10:05.350" UserId="18384" Text="&lt;thunderbolt&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54401" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14761" RevisionGUID="d4c82732-bd61-4afd-a722-39a91ce6a9ca" CreationDate="2021-04-10T04:02:32.613" UserId="6047" Comment="User posted additional comment as answer. Moved to question body." Text="I'm currently using Logitech G915 mechanic keyboard. But due to the pandemic we've many video meetings. The noise from G915 can be heard from other attendants so I got complained. I don't want to mute myself every time I try to search something during meeting. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions for a quiet keyboard with good typing feedbacks?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Requirements&#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. Quiet &#xD;&#xA; 2. Backlit &#xD;&#xA; 3. Good Feedback&#xD;&#xA; 4. Preferably Black Color&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So far, the closest one I can find is Logitech K740. I've tried Apple Keyboards but they don't have backlit, which is a deal breaker for me." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54403" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14771" RevisionGUID="a93bf373-7e6e-4a02-a20f-4a21b1b2761b" CreationDate="2021-04-10T18:15:07.457" UserId="17173" Text="It seems there are no USB sticks with hardware write switch of such small form-factor as Kingston SE9 (*39mm* of length). There are some alternatives smaller (shorter) than Kanguru SS3.&#xD;&#xA;- [**Kanguru FlashBlu30**](https://www.kanguru.com/storage-accessories/flashblu30-usb-flash-drive-with-physical-write-protect-switch.shtml) - *64mm* (8-64GB) / *71mm* (128-256GB)&#xD;&#xA;- [**Netac U336**](http://www.netac.com/mini/378.html) - *67.5mm*&#xD;&#xA;- [**Kanguru Defender 3000**](https://www.kanguru.com/secure-storage/defender-3000-usb-3-secure-hardware-encrypted-flash-drive.shtml) - *72.2mm*&#xD;&#xA;- [Kanguru SS3](https://www.kanguru.com/storage-accessories/kanguru-ss3-high-performance-usb-flash-drive-with-physical-write-protect-switch.shtml) is long *77mm*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Some alternatives:&#xD;&#xA;- searching for a small SD card USB reader&#xD;&#xA;- there are smaller form-factor USB pendrives with customisable fingerprint protection&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54404" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8966" RevisionGUID="48b24729-f0f9-4623-9ab5-50c324f1132b" CreationDate="2021-04-10T19:02:05.280" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54409" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14773" RevisionGUID="dd01cc5d-331c-46d4-b687-556d7aebf40a" CreationDate="2021-04-11T08:05:44.720" UserId="14384" Text="I would like to get a information. I have currently on my PC a Quadro RTX 6000. I would like to buy 2 new cards A6000. Is there a way to have 2 bridges which would allow to connect the 3 cards (1 RTX 6000 and 2 A6000) ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or maybe is there a software way to do computations on the 3 cards in the same time ?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestion is welcome.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54410" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14773" RevisionGUID="dd01cc5d-331c-46d4-b687-556d7aebf40a" CreationDate="2021-04-11T08:05:44.720" UserId="14384" Text="Connect NVIDIA RTX 6000 with 2 ATX 6000 Cards with Bridge" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54411" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14773" RevisionGUID="dd01cc5d-331c-46d4-b687-556d7aebf40a" CreationDate="2021-04-11T08:05:44.720" UserId="14384" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54413" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14774" RevisionGUID="2225bd01-d10d-4f05-b834-7f13976060a8" CreationDate="2021-04-12T14:01:27.667" UserId="18412" Text="I want to replace my iPhone 7 Plus with smaller device. Unfortunately, it is quite hard to find good phone. Could you please advise me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage: Calls, Messaging, music, work with my photogallery and taking some photos when I do not have my DSLR camera present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found these ones: &#xD;&#xA; - Google Pixel 4a &#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy S10e &#xD;&#xA; - iPhone XS, 11 Pro, 12 Mini, SE 2020&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nYearMin=2018&amp;nHeightMax=145&amp;nRamMin=2000&amp;sOSes=2,3&amp;sOSversions=2920,2910,2900,2810,3940,3930,3920,3910,3900,3800,3700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Suprsingly, no Huawei, Xiaomi in the list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, Pixel is not officially present in Czech Republic and S10e is sold with Exynos only. 12 Mini is too expensive for my needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54414" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14774" RevisionGUID="2225bd01-d10d-4f05-b834-7f13976060a8" CreationDate="2021-04-12T14:01:27.667" UserId="18412" Text="Phone under 145mm" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54415" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14774" RevisionGUID="2225bd01-d10d-4f05-b834-7f13976060a8" CreationDate="2021-04-12T14:01:27.667" UserId="18412" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;smartphones&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54418" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="f343ec4e-918c-4115-aacb-9c527a22611b" CreationDate="2021-04-13T08:09:00.460" UserId="18418" Text="I just bought my shinny new screen and the last one I bought was 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's [Xiaomi 34' Curved 144Hz Gamining Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Windows 10, I was surprised to see there is a resolution: 6880 * 2880!!!&#xD;&#xA;Oh dear, I checked the specs of this monitor, but on its official website, it's 3400*1440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also checked in Ubuntu 20.04, I do not have that high resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone explain why this is happening?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, my GPU is NVIDIA RTX 2080 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.mi-store.com.au/xiaomi-mi-curved-gaming-monitor-34#additional" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54419" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="f343ec4e-918c-4115-aacb-9c527a22611b" CreationDate="2021-04-13T08:09:00.460" UserId="18418" Text="Why is there a 6880*2880 resolution on my Xiaomi 34' curved monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54420" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="f343ec4e-918c-4115-aacb-9c527a22611b" CreationDate="2021-04-13T08:09:00.460" UserId="18418" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54421" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="c49c198f-a277-434e-b392-d1f5d7431764" CreationDate="2021-04-13T22:51:17.017" UserId="6089" Comment="corrected size from feet to inches, confirmed by visiting web site" Text="I just bought my shinny new screen and the last one I bought was 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's [Xiaomi 34&quot; Curved 144Hz Gamining Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Windows 10, I was surprised to see there is a resolution: 6880 * 2880!!!&#xD;&#xA;Oh dear, I checked the specs of this monitor, but on its official website, it's 3400*1440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also checked in Ubuntu 20.04, I do not have that high resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone explain why this is happening?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, my GPU is NVIDIA RTX 2080 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.mi-store.com.au/xiaomi-mi-curved-gaming-monitor-34#additional" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54422" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="c49c198f-a277-434e-b392-d1f5d7431764" CreationDate="2021-04-13T22:51:17.017" UserId="6089" Comment="corrected size from feet to inches, confirmed by visiting web site" Text="Why is there a 6880*2880 resolution on my Xiaomi 34&quot; curved monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54423" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="c49c198f-a277-434e-b392-d1f5d7431764" CreationDate="2021-04-13T22:51:17.017" Comment="Proposed by 6089 approved by 18418 edit id of 1172" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54424" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14775" RevisionGUID="7b14299d-ffe8-4d07-87bb-5b234e6b66d7" CreationDate="2021-04-13T22:55:05.080" UserId="18418" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="I just bought my shinny new screen and the last one I bought was 8 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's [Xiaomi 34&quot; Curved 144Hz Gamining Monitor][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On Windows 10, I was surprised to see there is a resolution: 6880 * 2880!!!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Oh dear, I checked the specs of this monitor, but on its official website, it's 3400*1440.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also checked in Ubuntu 20.04, I do not have that high resolution.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could anyone explain why this is happening?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Btw, my GPU is NVIDIA RTX 2080 Ti.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.mi-store.com.au/xiaomi-mi-curved-gaming-monitor-34#additional&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mw1xG.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54425" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14776" RevisionGUID="8e59f157-099e-4e47-b621-029653b1028a" CreationDate="2021-04-14T21:37:19.103" UserId="18425" Text="I recently (about 2-3 months ago) brought an RTX 3070 MSI Ventus2X OC. It is a dual fan GPU and ran pretty fine at 98-99% usage at 1900MHz and gave the temperature of about 70-75 C sometimes touching 80.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But recently the card has been keeping 90-92 C  at 1600MHz and 70-80% usage due to thermal throttling. My room gets fairly warm during the summers. Even when I switch on air conditioning, it still runs at 86 - 88 C. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The cooling is adequate on the PC. The case is an ATX case (Antec NX210) , there are 3 intake fans and 1 exhaust fans. There is enough space between the graphics card and the bottom of the case to get enough air through.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wanted to know whether I can cool it further with some software tweaks as I don't want to open the card as it is still in warranty. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54426" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14776" RevisionGUID="8e59f157-099e-4e47-b621-029653b1028a" CreationDate="2021-04-14T21:37:19.103" UserId="18425" Text="How can I reduce graphics card temperature?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54427" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14776" RevisionGUID="8e59f157-099e-4e47-b621-029653b1028a" CreationDate="2021-04-14T21:37:19.103" UserId="18425" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54431" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14015" RevisionGUID="b919592d-03cf-47bd-b9df-d86aba65f53a" CreationDate="2021-04-15T10:47:50.713" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54432" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14778" RevisionGUID="3eecd04c-1272-495d-a28a-d8af7f09fd89" CreationDate="2021-04-15T13:43:19.143" UserId="17263" Text="There are several things to try, First there is a software solution. *MSI Afterburner* is a free program you can download, and it has options to change the fan curve of your GPU. This way you can set the fan to run at 100% at higher temperatures and still have it be quiet when idle.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The same can be done for the fans in the uefi/bios of your system, Some motherboards have the option to use the motherboard temperature or cpu temperature to set fan speed. I personally prefer using the motherboard temperature since that is more indicative of general case temperature in my particular system, though results may vary.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second. A small hardware check that you can do is to see if all the screws on the back of the cooler are tightened properly. be careful not to over tighten though. carefully check to see if there's one screw with little to no resistance and tighten it a bit.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly when you say the cooling is adequate.. I actually doubt it. the NX210 might have enough fans, but there's a solid front panel with only a tiny gap for air.&#xD;&#xA;I'd suggest removing the front panel to see if this makes a difference. Worst case you could remove it during the summer, and put it back on in winter." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54433" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14779" RevisionGUID="b58389e7-e9c7-4890-8478-535ab2dd8ed1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T14:44:24.770" UserId="17263" Text="One option might be that you have Nvidia DSR enabled.&#xD;&#xA;to check: open up Nvidia control panel, go to Manage 3d setting and search for DSR-Factors. in your case 2.00x might be enabled" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54434" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="9563" RevisionGUID="e4795f63-bcbc-4f94-8e38-ae75cee51105" CreationDate="2021-04-15T15:06:00.423" UserId="17050" Comment="made the answer little better" Text="[Mikrotik Hex][1] or any of their products based on RouterOS (most routers)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:IPv6/DHCP_Client - look at the `pool-name` and `pool-prerix-length` parameters.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As for your bonus requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 1 Gbit might need something more expensive&#xD;&#xA; - LAN - It is present&#xD;&#xA; - CLAT - I have no idea&#xD;&#xA; - DHCP cache - It is present&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54435" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="9563" RevisionGUID="e4795f63-bcbc-4f94-8e38-ae75cee51105" CreationDate="2021-04-15T15:06:00.423" Comment="Proposed by 17050 approved by 57 edit id of 1160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54436" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="13114" RevisionGUID="743f9f95-b081-49f7-ba23-f00803bebeec" CreationDate="2021-04-15T15:06:05.257" UserId="9825" Comment="Grammar and clarity" Text="Hardware shopping: Which M.2 SSD should I buy?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54437" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13114" RevisionGUID="743f9f95-b081-49f7-ba23-f00803bebeec" CreationDate="2021-04-15T15:06:05.257" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 7556, 57 edit id of 1047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54438" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14780" RevisionGUID="273435c1-6a6b-49dd-b98a-08675d2557bc" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:10:45.130" UserId="18428" Text="I have an asus laptop UX430 two years now, and I am very pleased. Now I would like to buy a new external monitor to connect it to my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I use my machine as a web development enviroment, programming, casual office tasks, light video editing etc.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I never had a 27&quot; QHD, but I am afraid of buying one cause I don't know if my laptop supports it properly, and doesn't downgrade it to FHD or running QHD on 30 fps only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also have micro hdmi port so I will need to buy an adapter or hdmi cord. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am concerned about my gpu, cpu, micro hdmi version, not able to run a monitor with QHD and 75hz. What do you say about it, could my UX430 support QHD on at least 75hz?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54439" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14780" RevisionGUID="273435c1-6a6b-49dd-b98a-08675d2557bc" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:10:45.130" UserId="18428" Text="Does my laptop support QHD external monitor?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54440" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14780" RevisionGUID="273435c1-6a6b-49dd-b98a-08675d2557bc" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:10:45.130" UserId="18428" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54441" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8524" RevisionGUID="f1285d3d-d9a2-4583-b7e2-e62f7a82dfe1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:57:30.777" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54445" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14224" RevisionGUID="65957160-9a18-4142-a8be-0c0849e76fde" CreationDate="2021-04-16T09:04:26.893" UserId="16377" Comment="deleted 23 characters in body" Text="I've seen a lot of &quot;Wich laptop should I buy?&quot; questions but noone fits my needs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm a web developer (situated in Italy) with actually no computer at home since mine power supply burned out (yeah it might sounds stupid but that's what it is) and I want to move into the laptops world.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is what I'm looking for:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - I want to get into the world of linux distros and maybe install also windows (as I mainly work onto windows project), so i'm considering using a Dual Boot system.&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA; - &quot;*CPU &gt; GPU*&quot; As I will repair my old desktop pc with a new power supply, I will mainly play videogames into my old pc, so a super powerful Gpu isn't needed. Let's say that &quot;*the heaviest game*&quot; that I would play wuold be *League of legends* or something like that. Mainly I will program with this pc so a nice Cpu is the way I will go go. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 16 gb of ram, so I can run as many tasks as I needs, but i think I can get away with 8 gb of ram.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - A nice keyboard is mandatory as I will be writing stuff all the times.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The chances of me watching any movies on this pc are very high, so a decent display would be greatly appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - No particular requests regarding *the storage space* and *the noise of the fans*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - The thinner the better. But I could also consider *&quot;thick&quot; computers*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Last but not least, the price. I wuold stay in the  500 euros range. The lower it is the better.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've seen that many of you guys are recommending the *thinkpad*, but i don't know which model will fits my needs best as I'm not involved into hardware as I was before.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54446" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14781" RevisionGUID="fc0c114e-d555-4f73-aaf4-25554406a863" CreationDate="2021-04-16T16:38:13.147" UserId="18431" Text="I'm looking for a new computer custom or pre built. I work daily with blender (cycles) as a professional 3d artist but when it comes to technical things like picking a computer I feel lost. What should you get? my budget is limit is around USD 4000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54447" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14781" RevisionGUID="fc0c114e-d555-4f73-aaf4-25554406a863" CreationDate="2021-04-16T16:38:13.147" UserId="18431" Text="where to get a great PC for Blender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54448" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14781" RevisionGUID="fc0c114e-d555-4f73-aaf4-25554406a863" CreationDate="2021-04-16T16:38:13.147" UserId="18431" Text="&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54449" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14782" RevisionGUID="9efb347d-6010-4879-b07b-7942acea26da" CreationDate="2021-04-16T23:08:56.713" UserId="18434" Text="Seriously is there such thing as an E-Ink display that is more than 10 inches and is NOT from WaveShare? Because I saw their monitor (The aluminium is a bit on the uncheap side) I don't want you to repost it here. So, any suggestons? I need it to be compaptible with Raspberry Pi.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;--LEHAtupointow aka IMSEARCHINGFORANEINKDISPLAYTHATISNOTFROMWAVESHAREANDISFROMSOMEOTHERDEALERIDONTKNOWANDCONTINUEDONTHENEXTPAGE" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54450" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14782" RevisionGUID="9efb347d-6010-4879-b07b-7942acea26da" CreationDate="2021-04-16T23:08:56.713" UserId="18434" Text="Is there a E-Ink HDMI 10&quot; or more inch display?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54451" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14782" RevisionGUID="9efb347d-6010-4879-b07b-7942acea26da" CreationDate="2021-04-16T23:08:56.713" UserId="18434" Text="&lt;e-ink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54456" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14783" RevisionGUID="e23218be-43f8-46e6-a6cc-161078d9c3c6" CreationDate="2021-04-17T10:08:16.433" UserId="18435" Text="I´m looking for a good alternative to Apple AirPods. I like the fit/comfort of AirPods but don´t like the bad reparability. Are there some good options, where you have a chance to repair the device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main use will be:\&#xD;&#xA;-Calls\&#xD;&#xA;-Video-Chats\&#xD;&#xA;-Sometimes Music&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For music and noise cancelling I use Sony WF-1000MX3. But I don´t want the closed ear feeling when I´m using my headphones for communications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are quite a lot of alternatives for sure, but often its not about the reparability of the devices. And I don´t see a reason to throw away a device just because the battery died." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54457" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14783" RevisionGUID="e23218be-43f8-46e6-a6cc-161078d9c3c6" CreationDate="2021-04-17T10:08:16.433" UserId="18435" Text="AirPods Alternatives" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54458" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14783" RevisionGUID="e23218be-43f8-46e6-a6cc-161078d9c3c6" CreationDate="2021-04-17T10:08:16.433" UserId="18435" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54459" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11856" RevisionGUID="70c1702a-794f-42ba-abc9-b24d5ce6d821" CreationDate="2021-04-17T10:41:43.960" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54460" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14783" RevisionGUID="b4bbf5c5-473f-450f-b2ca-9e22eb27a687" CreationDate="2021-04-18T19:51:53.523" UserId="18435" Comment="added 14 characters in body" Text="I´m looking for a good alternative to Apple AirPods. I like the fit/comfort of AirPods but don´t like the bad reparability. Are there some good options, where you have a chance to repair the device?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main use will be:\&#xD;&#xA;-Calls\&#xD;&#xA;-Video-Chats\&#xD;&#xA;-Sometimes Music&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For music and noise cancelling I use Sony WF-1000MX3. But I don´t want the closed ear feeling when I´m using my headphones for communications.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There are quite a lot of reviews about alternatives for sure, but often its not about the reparability of the devices. And I don´t see a reason to throw away a device just because the battery died." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54461" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14784" RevisionGUID="9b51a023-3a53-4686-8bc4-8218ad6b77d5" CreationDate="2021-04-18T19:59:23.403" UserId="18435" Text="I´m right now not up to date. So I can´t recommend parts. But what I can recommend you, is reading several articles about current hardware (this helps me always a lot). You get pretty fast an overview and can create a list. You can overview than your list and can optimize it. With the budget you should have some options.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You can also take a look on the requirements for Blender and can work a bit with that (for an overview):&#xD;&#xA;https://www.blender.org/download/requirements/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54462" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14785" RevisionGUID="32138643-d40b-4cd0-a14d-56cbbb251dfe" CreationDate="2021-04-19T09:34:15.917" UserId="18438" Text="I want to know whether the following motherboards(x570) will be a good fit for a 5090x, given that:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Will use a noctua 15 (the double fan version)&#xD;&#xA; - Planning to buy in the future a 3080 when available&#xD;&#xA; - The computer will be used intensively with vms and mostly to run multithreaded computations&#xD;&#xA; - Please mention if the motherboard offers a good possibility of overclocking&#xD;&#xA; - Please mention if the vrm is good, if it offers good thermal protection and the quality of the capacitators&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Motherboards I can choose from:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte X570 UD&#xD;&#xA; - Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS&#xD;&#xA; - Gigabyte X570 GAMING X&#xD;&#xA; - Asus PRIME X570-P&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: Please refer only to the motherboards listed and notify whether they are good candidates and what would you choose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much for your much appreciated help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54463" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14785" RevisionGUID="32138643-d40b-4cd0-a14d-56cbbb251dfe" CreationDate="2021-04-19T09:34:15.917" UserId="18438" Text="Motherboard recommendation for a 5090x" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54464" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14785" RevisionGUID="32138643-d40b-4cd0-a14d-56cbbb251dfe" CreationDate="2021-04-19T09:34:15.917" UserId="18438" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;&lt;development&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54465" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14786" RevisionGUID="fb19e8c1-4ad5-4a3f-9ce2-03f4f7e35697" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:05:05.653" UserId="18438" Text="I am trying to choose a case from the following. I will be using a 5090x with a noctua 15 cooler, need to have space for a future 3080 graphic card and most importantly it needs to able to dissipate heat as good as possible.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Cases to choose from (Please only chose a case from the following, not others):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Sharkoon RGB Slider ATX&#xD;&#xA; - Sharkoon VG5-W ATX&#xD;&#xA; - CoolerMaster MasterBox E501L Mid Tower&#xD;&#xA; - Sharkoon VG7-W Window ATX&#xD;&#xA; - Antec NX400 ATX Mid Tower Black Case&#xD;&#xA; - Sharkoon PURE STEEL Full ATX&#xD;&#xA; - CoolerMaster MasterBox K501L ATX Mid Towe&#xD;&#xA; - Sharkoon REV100 ATX RGB&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 110R Tempered Glass Mid-Tower&#xD;&#xA; - ADATA XPG STARKER ATX Mid Tower&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair Carbide 275R Acrylic Mid-Towe&#xD;&#xA; - Corsair 110Q Mid-Tower Quiet&#xD;&#xA; - CoolerMaster MasterBox MB511 Mesh ATX Red Case No PSU&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note: I don't care about rgb and those kind of game&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thank you very much for your much appreciated help." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54466" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14786" RevisionGUID="fb19e8c1-4ad5-4a3f-9ce2-03f4f7e35697" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:05:05.653" UserId="18438" Text="Choosing a case for 5090x for heavy duty usage" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54467" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14786" RevisionGUID="fb19e8c1-4ad5-4a3f-9ce2-03f4f7e35697" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:05:05.653" UserId="18438" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;development&gt;&lt;case&gt;&lt;heat-sink&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54468" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14787" RevisionGUID="ffd464fb-6f7b-4eef-957c-ce27222f9540" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:27:21.170" UserId="18439" Text="I run heavy data analysis on my 2014 MacBook Pro which just this year has started to show hardware problems exactly during long-duration computational tasks.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I decided to take a laptop cooling pad both to improve computing speed and protect the hardware.  &#xD;&#xA;I searched extensively on the web to get an idea of the best cooler on the market, but all I could find were many qualitative comparisons of products without objective quantitative assessments on performance (often they compares shapes, light effects and other things I'm not interested in).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there a clear winner(s) in term of cooling capabilities or at least some indication on what to compare (fan speed, number of fans, fans dispositions)? Even better if optimized for MacBook Pros, i.e. back-positioned exhaust vents, thermal concentration on the back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to have objective/scientific indications in this regard. Price is not an issue (I didn't see any product above 100$ anyway)&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54469" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14787" RevisionGUID="ffd464fb-6f7b-4eef-957c-ce27222f9540" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:27:21.170" UserId="18439" Text="Best performance (or indications to judge) laptop cooling pad for pro use" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54470" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14787" RevisionGUID="ffd464fb-6f7b-4eef-957c-ce27222f9540" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:27:21.170" UserId="18439" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54471" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="7293" RevisionGUID="310ba252-c7d3-44c2-8f90-668d26f68769" CreationDate="2021-04-19T10:59:36.083" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54474" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="83be356d-6d39-4a37-b031-00fef48d44d3" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:32:52.210" UserId="16987" Comment="add bit about missing VESA mount on samsung ur59c" Text="I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In over 6 months of searching, and haven't found ANY monitor fulfilling these criteria. I haven't found *any* 32&quot; curved 4K *IPS* panels, regardless of any other features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - height adjustable and speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C; no standard VESA mount, although adapters available. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flat 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG UltraFine 32EP950](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/lg-32EP950-27GP950-ces) - LG's first OLED monitor, announced at CES 2021. Besides OLED: KVM, 2xDisplayPort 1.4, 2xUSB, USB-C with 90W power delivery, [60Hz refresh rate](https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&amp;id=1610378125). [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/kv2vqv/lg_32ep950_32_oled_monitor_trailer/) is [not that excited](https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/kv3n97/lg_announces_315inch_oled_4k_display_32ep950/) about it. No official product page yet.&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - fully adjustable, 60Hz, USB-C with [90W](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDBD9CM) power delivery, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand, powered via USB from the monitor; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/) buyers report backlight bleed.&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though, and it has a simple but useful volume knob. Sound is great but the lack of height adjustability made me not use the upper 25% of the screen. Wit the speakers below the bezel, the usable screen area starts at 103mm above the desk.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;* At CES 2021, DELL announced a [40&quot; curved 5K2K screen](https://www.theverge.com/2021/1/11/22224847/dell-ultrasharp-40-curved-wuhd-u4021qw-monitor-5k2k-release-date-price-features-ports).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54475" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="83be356d-6d39-4a37-b031-00fef48d44d3" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:32:52.210" Comment="Proposed by 16987 approved by 5531 edit id of 1174" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54476" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14788" RevisionGUID="95efa878-afd2-40f7-a332-ae55113408ad" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:54:21.633" UserId="5182" Text="I am expecting Chia coin price to crash soon and people will have to sell off all their HDD in second hand market to recover some value. May I know if Chia is an intense R/W mining application? I heard there is a time limit thing they only allow changing some hash after at least a certain amount of time. Say when the Chia gold rush ends in 2 ~ 6 months, will the HDDs be at end of life cycle? or they will still have a lot of MTBF being a worthy buy? I am not looking for definite answers, I want some educated guess." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54477" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14788" RevisionGUID="95efa878-afd2-40f7-a332-ae55113408ad" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:54:21.633" UserId="5182" Text="will chia coins mining HDD be reusable?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54478" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14788" RevisionGUID="95efa878-afd2-40f7-a332-ae55113408ad" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:54:21.633" UserId="5182" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54479" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14789" RevisionGUID="1ada4c99-8ddd-4f2d-9c01-502b237fbd1b" CreationDate="2021-04-21T17:32:35.380" UserId="1776" Text="4K displays have a higher power consumption compared to normal 1980x1024 ones.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there on the market any 4K displays that can dynamically reduce their resolution turning 4 pixels into one? E.g.:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    p1  p2               p1  p1&#xD;&#xA;                --&gt;                  --&gt;      p1&#xD;&#xA;    p3  p4               p1  p1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This would reduce by 75% the amount of graphics memory and of data transfer to the display.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would this save any amount of energy?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If this was true, it would be possible reduce the resolution for longer battery life when 4K is not needed (e.g. when in a non perfectly static setting, like on a train, where details cannot be perceived)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54480" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14789" RevisionGUID="1ada4c99-8ddd-4f2d-9c01-502b237fbd1b" CreationDate="2021-04-21T17:32:35.380" UserId="1776" Text="Are there high resolution 4K LED laptop displays which can reduce their resolution to save power?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54481" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14789" RevisionGUID="1ada4c99-8ddd-4f2d-9c01-502b237fbd1b" CreationDate="2021-04-21T17:32:35.380" UserId="1776" Text="&lt;displays&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;led&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54482" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14790" RevisionGUID="8232b06b-f71a-4669-8394-c0c79b42530f" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:47:25.647" UserId="18455" Text="I am looking for a GPS watch (or any other kind of wearable) which can log GPS information with high accuracy and offers the option to export the data log without a smartphone or internet connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to use it to accurately log tracks/paths and don't care much about other features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All the famous brands (like Garmin, Suunto, Coros, Polar, ...) seem to make data export difficult, usually requiring to upload the data to one of their online services and then manual exporting it from there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The only product I found which fulfills my needs is Columbus V-1000 (https://www.cbgps.com/v1000/index.html). It simply works as a USB storage device. But it would be great to have some other options as this product seems to be difficult to order in my country.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It seems the data from Timex watches can be exported to a computer with proprietary software. I didn't find clear information on that however.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Related:&#xD;&#xA;- https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/15168/device-for-logging-gps-and-accelerometer-data&#xD;&#xA;- https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9242/driverless-gps-logger&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54483" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14790" RevisionGUID="8232b06b-f71a-4669-8394-c0c79b42530f" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:47:25.647" UserId="18455" Text="Looking for a GPS watch with simple (timeproof) data export" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54484" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14790" RevisionGUID="8232b06b-f71a-4669-8394-c0c79b42530f" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:47:25.647" UserId="18455" Text="&lt;gps&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54485" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14791" RevisionGUID="5ef280a6-ba83-4a65-805c-97c060211cae" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:51:16.410" UserId="18456" Text="I have a respawn ninja Model# MK89M&#xD;&#xA;it is a split keyboard that has a usb-c male to usb-c male cable between the cables.&#xD;&#xA;however the cable is a bit different as it cannot be connected on any side of the plug, both ends have a top side and down side, and to have the keyboard work they have to be connected either both side up or both sides down.&#xD;&#xA;I bought another usb-c cable (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333683848463?var=542772843492) as I want to extend the range, however this cable doesn't work. any ideas why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54486" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14791" RevisionGUID="5ef280a6-ba83-4a65-805c-97c060211cae" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:51:16.410" UserId="18456" Text="USB-C cable to usb-C difference between cables on split keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54487" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14791" RevisionGUID="5ef280a6-ba83-4a65-805c-97c060211cae" CreationDate="2021-04-22T09:51:16.410" UserId="18456" Text="&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54488" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14050" RevisionGUID="9278480f-a5f4-499c-9014-62b9ed7b9ac3" CreationDate="2021-04-22T10:08:10.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54489" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14792" RevisionGUID="213fa7f9-e36b-4661-9208-37d4c61d15ae" CreationDate="2021-04-22T11:35:12.650" UserId="17263" Text="I would suggest just checking the specifications of these cases.&#xD;&#xA;The first two already don't fit your cooler. neither does the Sharkoon pure steel or the  corsair 110Q so check the rest to see if they support the cooler height.&#xD;&#xA;There are rtx3080 models of more than 330mm. There are also cases that do not support this, if you want optimal compatibility for all 3080 models, check for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second I suggest picking the case with a mesh front and at least two fans preinstalled. preferably three.&#xD;&#xA;Personally I recommend avoiding Sharkoon products. The ones I've worked in were very thin and had a lot of sharp edges that can cut your fingers or cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the masterbox mesh is an example of a good case in your list.&#xD;&#xA;Mesh front, enough preinstalled fans, enough clearance for the cpu cooler(barely, but that's the nature of a cooler like the nh-d15) and a layout where adding hard drives does not reduce space for gpu so it supports all available options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54490" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14792" RevisionGUID="e73710d9-b1d3-4a20-9b8f-6637a39cd7a6" CreationDate="2021-04-22T12:02:03.857" UserId="17263" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="I would suggest just checking the specifications of these cases.&#xD;&#xA;The first two already don't fit your cooler. Neither does the Sharkoon pure steel or the  corsair 110Q, so check the rest to see if they support the cooler height.&#xD;&#xA;There are rtx3080 models of more than 330mm. There are also cases that do not support this, if you want optimal compatibility for all 3080 models, check for this.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second I suggest picking the case with a mesh front and at least two fans preinstalled. preferably three.&#xD;&#xA;Personally I recommend avoiding Sharkoon products. The ones I've worked in were very thin and had a lot of sharp edges that can cut your fingers or cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;the masterbox mesh is an example of a good case in your list.&#xD;&#xA;Mesh front, enough preinstalled fans, enough clearance for the cpu cooler(barely, but that's the nature of a cooler like the nh-d15) and a layout where adding hard drives does not reduce space for gpu so it supports all available options." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54491" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14793" RevisionGUID="5c37ecd1-695d-460e-bba2-f584aeb60cac" CreationDate="2021-04-22T14:27:54.647" UserId="9875" Text="Im looking to purchase a wireless bridge system. I see some that are 2.4mhz some 5mhz and some are both.&#xD;&#xA;My question is this:&#xD;&#xA;Does the wireless bridge just extend my existing 2.4mhz/5mhz wireless network? Or is that just the frequency of the communication between the (line of site) transmit/receive devices (for lack of a better name)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The reason Im confused is that ...I would think that the router on the remote end could create 2.4 and 5 mhz wireless network.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Why would you need a bride that does both frequencies?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54492" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14793" RevisionGUID="5c37ecd1-695d-460e-bba2-f584aeb60cac" CreationDate="2021-04-22T14:27:54.647" UserId="9875" Text="Wireless Bridge System 2.4GHz and 5GHz" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54493" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14793" RevisionGUID="5c37ecd1-695d-460e-bba2-f584aeb60cac" CreationDate="2021-04-22T14:27:54.647" UserId="9875" Text="&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;router&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54494" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14794" RevisionGUID="58b7bdfb-2fb0-440f-8d04-d480350213c7" CreationDate="2021-04-22T19:30:01.477" UserId="18460" Text="First and foremost - this is not for a normal network. This is in a product/lab environment that happens to use ethernet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have a HP 1910 switch that I configured exactly like I want, and it works. However, I cannot keep using this specific piece of hardware and need something 1) new (because 1910s aren't sold anymore) and 2) I need a smaller number of ports, so this switch can fit in an enclosed space/be easier to move around/travel with.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am having trouble looking through Cisco and Aruba switches as the manuals I have found don't seem to be able to configure ports to Hybrid. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As a side question, is &quot;Hybrid Port Link Type&quot; functionality only in L2 or L3 switches? Or is there another way to tell that a switch supports it?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54495" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14794" RevisionGUID="58b7bdfb-2fb0-440f-8d04-d480350213c7" CreationDate="2021-04-22T19:30:01.477" UserId="18460" Text="I need a switch with 8 ports and the ability to configure the ports as Hybrid and setup VLANs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54496" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14794" RevisionGUID="58b7bdfb-2fb0-440f-8d04-d480350213c7" CreationDate="2021-04-22T19:30:01.477" UserId="18460" Text="&lt;networking&gt;&lt;switch&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54501" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14796" RevisionGUID="2b0f7fab-97c5-458a-9152-aa9070adf1d0" CreationDate="2021-04-23T09:58:43.993" UserId="18461" Text="I'm looking for a headset for use on conference calls and listening to music. I have so far failed to find something that meets my long list of requirements (particularly the first requirement is very rare).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Must haves:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Light on the end of the mic boom to show when you're on mute&#xD;&#xA;- Boom mic&#xD;&#xA;- On-headphone controls for volume and mute&#xD;&#xA;- Reasonable sound quality for listening to music&#xD;&#xA;- Wireless (ideally bluetooth but DECT or similar would be ok if it allows me to tick all the other boxes)&#xD;&#xA;- Closed-back headphones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Would like to haves:&#xD;&#xA;- Over-ear headphones (on-ear would be acceptable provided they give a reasonable level of sound isolation, but not in-ear)&#xD;&#xA;- Active noise cancelling for the microphone&#xD;&#xA;- Active noise cancelling for the headphones&#xD;&#xA;- Not ridiculously heavy or bulky (will be wearing it 9-5, 5 days a week)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any suggestions very gratefully appreciated." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54502" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14796" RevisionGUID="2b0f7fab-97c5-458a-9152-aa9070adf1d0" CreationDate="2021-04-23T09:58:43.993" UserId="18461" Text="Bluetooth headset with mute indicator light on boom" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54503" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14796" RevisionGUID="2b0f7fab-97c5-458a-9152-aa9070adf1d0" CreationDate="2021-04-23T09:58:43.993" UserId="18461" Text="&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54504" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14797" RevisionGUID="8dfe11c6-9f3e-4048-a2ce-ca934062dc7f" CreationDate="2021-04-23T18:09:07.813" UserId="18463" Text="so I want to get into FPGA mainly because I am interested in emulating retro hardware, and improving my understanding of ic logic, and the idea of being able to create my own chips(well sort of :)) just sounds super awesome. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So the question is what do you need to start ?  &#xD;&#xA;Generally I don't have a lot of money so I'd like to stick with the 100 € models. &#xD;&#xA;Here are some things I am unsure of. &#xD;&#xA;Lots of the very cheap boards disclaim that there is no programmer/ debugger included, what is important to me is that I can program the chip without having to get a lot of extra hardware, so a mostly all in one package would be good. If thats not feasible some info on the minimum set up required to get started would be appreciated. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have all sorts of electronics stuff already, Arduinos and Raspbis, breadboards the like so some basic equipment already exists. &#xD;&#xA;So any suggestions ? &#xD;&#xA;thanks for the input and cheers, &#xD;&#xA;Passifi" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54505" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14797" RevisionGUID="8dfe11c6-9f3e-4048-a2ce-ca934062dc7f" CreationDate="2021-04-23T18:09:07.813" UserId="18463" Text="What FPGA Devboard to start learning" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54506" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14797" RevisionGUID="8dfe11c6-9f3e-4048-a2ce-ca934062dc7f" CreationDate="2021-04-23T18:09:07.813" UserId="18463" Text="&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54507" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="13155" RevisionGUID="845d7a08-c8dc-46f7-99fc-313bd67f82a4" CreationDate="2021-04-23T19:04:45.483" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54508" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14798" RevisionGUID="62cf1240-845b-42b4-95d6-a2be5705d4d3" CreationDate="2021-04-24T03:50:26.203" UserId="18466" Text="Personally, I have used `Altera Cyclone® II 90nm FPGA development board` and `EDGE Spartan FPGA` ,  in my university.  Altera cycle 2 is a great development board with onboard switches, 7segment displays and LCD, but quite expensive. However, if you are looking for something cheap, then maybe check out  `ALTERA FPGA Cyclone II EP2C5T144 System Development Board` and `EDGE Spartan 6 FPGA Development Board.`" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54509" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14799" RevisionGUID="0fa1b93c-ac0a-488b-a98e-5ecf153ea530" CreationDate="2021-04-24T09:29:29.343" UserId="18468" Text="I’m looking for a graphics card compatible with the Fujitsu Primergy tx100 s3p, any recommendations? I will mostly use it for development using Android Studio on Ubuntu. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54510" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14799" RevisionGUID="0fa1b93c-ac0a-488b-a98e-5ecf153ea530" CreationDate="2021-04-24T09:29:29.343" UserId="18468" Text="Graphics card for Fujitsu Primergy tx100 s3p" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54511" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14799" RevisionGUID="0fa1b93c-ac0a-488b-a98e-5ecf153ea530" CreationDate="2021-04-24T09:29:29.343" UserId="18468" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54512" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14799" RevisionGUID="26d21111-656f-4a05-9920-2dea05bf65a7" CreationDate="2021-04-24T10:36:36.387" UserId="18468" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;ubuntu&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54513" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14800" RevisionGUID="f624b34a-5420-46b0-9e1a-ade4cd933297" CreationDate="2021-04-24T10:38:52.407" UserId="18469" Text="I've bought ASUS TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS(WIFI) with G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (32GBX2) DDR4-4000.&#xD;&#xA;I inserted both RAMs in DDR4_DIMM_A2 and DDR4_DIMM_B2 but it hanged my PC repetitively( in Bios I see DRAM bus was set to Auto and the motherboard set it 3600 in Auto mode).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, I've inserted both RAMs in DDR4_DIMM_A1 and DDR4_DIMM_B1 and everything works fine. However, In this mode DRAM frequency more than 2666Mhz makes my motherboard unstable(it shows me the instability in POST screen). when I set my DRAM frequency to 3600 or 4000 it shows me instability message and in bios mode I see it changed my DRAM to 2666Mhz to become stable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wonder why this mother board with this specification&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4 x DIMM, Max. 128GB, DDR4 4800(O.C.)/4600(O.C)/4500(O.C)/4400(O.C)/4266(O.C.)/4133(O.C.)/4000(O.C.)/3866(O.C.)/3733(O.C.)/3600(O.C.)/3466(O.C.)/3400(O.C.)/3333(O.C.)/3200(O.C.)/3000(O.C.)/2933(O.C.)/2800(O.C.)/2666/2400/2133 MHz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory&#xD;&#xA;Dual Channel Memory Architecture&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;works in this manner.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I will be grateful if you could help me to increase my DRAM frequency and make my PC stable." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54514" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14800" RevisionGUID="f624b34a-5420-46b0-9e1a-ade4cd933297" CreationDate="2021-04-24T10:38:52.407" UserId="18469" Text="ASUS TUF gaming Z490plus 64G DRAM instablility" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54515" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14800" RevisionGUID="f624b34a-5420-46b0-9e1a-ade4cd933297" CreationDate="2021-04-24T10:38:52.407" UserId="18469" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54516" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14801" RevisionGUID="218ac162-c4f7-46fc-bb15-6b50bb6a5221" CreationDate="2021-04-24T11:53:23.563" UserId="18470" Text="I recently harvested an old hard drive from an old ASUS laptop running with windows XP (see photo). Two questions now: &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. What 'reader'/adapter (with a USB on the other end) should I buy so that I can read the drive in a Mac? &#xD;&#xA;2. With the current Mac I am using, won't reading the files (from a windows) cause any formatting issues or troubles?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; [![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/SagNt.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54517" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14801" RevisionGUID="218ac162-c4f7-46fc-bb15-6b50bb6a5221" CreationDate="2021-04-24T11:53:23.563" UserId="18470" Text="recently harvested an old hard drive from ASUS laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54518" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14801" RevisionGUID="218ac162-c4f7-46fc-bb15-6b50bb6a5221" CreationDate="2021-04-24T11:53:23.563" UserId="18470" Text="&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;windows&gt;&lt;macos&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54519" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14802" RevisionGUID="1ea80fae-2014-491e-999e-931baa9a3c57" CreationDate="2021-04-24T16:00:33.963" UserId="18471" Text="I need to connect several USB video capture devices to my laptop but its USB ports have the internal bus shared, which means that, although it recognizes all the independent capture devices, I can only get video signal from the first one I connect as it doesn't support the load from the others. I am looking for a docking station, which would be connected to only one of those ports on my laptop. Would it work? Does a high end docking station handle the data stream directly or would it be like using a cheap USB hub?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54520" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14802" RevisionGUID="1ea80fae-2014-491e-999e-931baa9a3c57" CreationDate="2021-04-24T16:00:33.963" UserId="18471" Text="Docking station for USB video recorders" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54521" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14802" RevisionGUID="1ea80fae-2014-491e-999e-931baa9a3c57" CreationDate="2021-04-24T16:00:33.963" UserId="18471" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;&lt;video-editing&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54522" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14108" RevisionGUID="4adfa09f-748c-4909-bdf2-228b2ad62543" CreationDate="2021-04-24T16:03:05.403" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54523" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14803" RevisionGUID="91a35098-f5cb-48ae-95fe-adbebe8877ee" CreationDate="2021-04-24T20:11:50.330" UserId="18472" Text="I listen to lectures on YouTube. These lectures can be up to 1 hour long. I use a YouTube to MP3 converter/downloader to get the MP3 file onto my PC. I am looking for an MP3 player supporting going forward or back in time within the same audio file, within the same lecture. I want that player to have buttons to move forward or backward an arbitrary amount of time. I do not want the buttons to skip to the next audio file instead. Or I want an MP3 player that can remember where it left off last time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For example, I may be listening to a lecture on such an MP3 player. I have listened through maybe 1/3 of the entire lecture. Then I stop my listening session to do something else. When I come back the next time to continue my listening session, I want to listen to the rest of the lecture. I do not want to start all over again. It would be good for the MP3 player to remember where it left off, so that it can pick up again in the same place. Or alternatively there should be buttons to go forward, if I repeatedly tap the buttons I can get to the same place where I left off. These buttons shouldn't take me to the next lecture.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Since I will use this MP3 player for listening to lectures only, I do not want to have any extra features such as any wireless capabilities, such as Bluetooth, radio, or Wifi. I also do not want to have an integrated microphone. I do not want a very complicated device with extra features, or a device that could potentially spy on me. I do not want an MP3 player which is tightly bound to some proprietary service such as a music store, where one can play only audio files retrieved from that proprietary music store. I also do not want it to have advertisements or sponsored content. I want a simple device. I just want to be able to transfer the audio files of lectures from my computer, using a USB cable or a microSD card." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54524" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14803" RevisionGUID="91a35098-f5cb-48ae-95fe-adbebe8877ee" CreationDate="2021-04-24T20:11:50.330" UserId="18472" Text="MP3 player supporting continuing from the same time, or going forward or back in time within the same audio file" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54525" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14803" RevisionGUID="91a35098-f5cb-48ae-95fe-adbebe8877ee" CreationDate="2021-04-24T20:11:50.330" UserId="18472" Text="&lt;mp3-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54526" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14804" RevisionGUID="7550ec16-8033-432b-b5cc-8aa019539b4c" CreationDate="2021-04-25T02:48:32.377" UserId="17136" Text="To answer your first question, [this is the adapter you need][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your second question, you will be able to read windows files from it as Mac can read FAT32 and NTFS filesystems (those are the types Windows uses).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this answers your question!  If you need further details, let me know in the comments! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=ide%20to%20usb&amp;qid=1619318745&amp;sr=8-3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54527" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14804" RevisionGUID="88696dcf-e81c-4500-8336-41f28db9b62a" CreationDate="2021-04-25T04:05:04.523" UserId="17136" Comment="Changed Amazon link" Text="To answer your first question, [this is the adapter you need][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For your second question, you will be able to read windows files from it as Mac can read FAT32 and NTFS filesystems (those are the types Windows uses).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Hope this answers your question!  If you need further details, let me know in the comments! :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*EDIT\*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I changed the Amazon link because the initial item had pretty bad reviews that I hadn't noticed but the new one looks good.  Sorry!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-UNITEK-Universal-External-Support/dp/B01NAUIA6G/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54528" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14805" RevisionGUID="4b031666-ef5c-46d6-bfd4-1db8802d303c" CreationDate="2021-04-25T04:26:38.617" UserId="17136" Text="Pretty much any card will work, as long as your power supply can handle it.  Are you using the stock power supply, or have you put a new one in?  If you have a new PSU, I like the GTX 650 Ti as a cheaper GPU.  Works pretty well for ~$50 USD used.  What's your budget?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54529" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14806" RevisionGUID="29e6519e-3acf-4f1c-a379-c075081959e9" CreationDate="2021-04-25T13:01:59.650" UserId="18474" Text="I have the opportunity to buy MX 2 2016 in excellent condition (it almost didn't used). Does it make sense to buy MX 2, or MX 2S is no worse?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54530" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14806" RevisionGUID="29e6519e-3acf-4f1c-a379-c075081959e9" CreationDate="2021-04-25T13:01:59.650" UserId="18474" Text="What is better in terms of quality: Logitech MX Anywhere 2 vs 2S?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54531" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14806" RevisionGUID="29e6519e-3acf-4f1c-a379-c075081959e9" CreationDate="2021-04-25T13:01:59.650" UserId="18474" Text="&lt;mice&gt;&lt;logitech&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54536" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14808" RevisionGUID="7acf9d06-17be-4c43-91e3-ad8edc61a737" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:31:06.383" UserId="18479" Text="i hear buzzing sound from my laptop exactly near the touch pad &#xD;&#xA;i hear it when the pc on or off and it stops only if I unplug it and i remove the battery&#xD;&#xA;it's not the power supply because it's external &#xD;&#xA;I'm scared if the will stop working" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54537" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14808" RevisionGUID="7acf9d06-17be-4c43-91e3-ad8edc61a737" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:31:06.383" UserId="18479" Text="i hear buzzing sound from my laptop" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54538" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14808" RevisionGUID="7acf9d06-17be-4c43-91e3-ad8edc61a737" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:31:06.383" UserId="18479" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54539" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14809" RevisionGUID="3fd7e96a-f89f-4e7c-a35e-720c63fa2bc8" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:40:12.433" UserId="18478" Text="I have a kind of unique use case, I need about 5 pieces of hardware to access a *custom web application* and I'm in the process of researching my possibilities.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My main problem is being on a quite **low budget** ($150-250) and that because the only thing the device would be used for is accessing a mid/high grade web app, so essentially, running a browser, I **do not need other resources** provided by given device, like a good camera or lots of storage.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important properties would be...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - a clear and rather big **display** (*min. 10 inch* maybe?)&#xD;&#xA; - enough **RAM** for the browser to not lag, freeze&#xD;&#xA; - long **battery** life (it might be used where power is not directly available)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Do you have any suggestions?** I have looked into the *Huawei MediaPad T5* and *Lenovo Tab M8* on the tablet side, I've only found very few fitting laptops on used hardware sites.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54540" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14809" RevisionGUID="3fd7e96a-f89f-4e7c-a35e-720c63fa2bc8" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:40:12.433" UserId="18478" Text="Laptop or Tablet for accessing web application?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54541" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14809" RevisionGUID="3fd7e96a-f89f-4e7c-a35e-720c63fa2bc8" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:40:12.433" UserId="18478" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54542" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14809" RevisionGUID="a0bb54c9-731f-4bd7-9559-8d87a1246c0b" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:59:47.860" UserId="18478" Comment="edited title" Text="Laptop or Tablet for custom use case?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54543" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14140" RevisionGUID="fb7d3a73-1c08-48c2-b5ba-f3fecaaf2a1f" CreationDate="2021-04-25T19:02:45.283" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54544" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14809" RevisionGUID="37e17e64-6f00-4ffd-844a-6fd2c5200e36" CreationDate="2021-04-25T19:16:50.673" UserId="18478" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;battery-life&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54545" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14810" RevisionGUID="959866f1-0785-47ee-90da-c2cf0d4fccf5" CreationDate="2021-04-25T20:47:30.337" UserId="18480" Text="I've my Dell G5 5590 for about 11 months now, it came with RTX 2060, i7 9750h, 16 gigs ram, 1TB HDD, and 128 GB M2 SSD. &#xD;&#xA;My SSD has run outta space now and I didn't even install anything in the OS drive. So now I'm planning to do a fresh install of windows.&#xD;&#xA;So I wanted to know if there are any risk factors in doing so in a laptop that came with a pre-installed copy of windows.&#xD;&#xA;What programs would I need to reinstall after windows installation?&#xD;&#xA;Will my SSD be detectable when I chose to install a new copy of windows?&#xD;&#xA;and any other things which I should consider before going with it. &#xD;&#xA;Thank you. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54546" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14810" RevisionGUID="959866f1-0785-47ee-90da-c2cf0d4fccf5" CreationDate="2021-04-25T20:47:30.337" UserId="18480" Text="What things to be considered before doing fresh windows install in Dell gaming laptop (G5 5590)?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54547" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14810" RevisionGUID="959866f1-0785-47ee-90da-c2cf0d4fccf5" CreationDate="2021-04-25T20:47:30.337" UserId="18480" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;&lt;windows&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54548" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14811" RevisionGUID="f7d3a5eb-ce0e-4d23-a4f4-86be9bf1620e" CreationDate="2021-04-25T22:11:06.697" UserId="13421" Text="Windows is profligate in use of drive space. During an update, it may be using almost *triple* the amount taken up by the Windows OS directory itself: The original Windows folder, the update files that are downloaded and unpacked, and a *copy* of the Windows folder, *Windows.old*. Perhaps investigate purchase of a larger SSD, or experiment with an OS that uses space more efficiently, e.g. Linux.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, the *first* task is to make an image of *all* disk drives, and *verify* that the images are valid. There are a number of applications, such as [Macrium Reflect Free][1], to perform that imaging. With complete disk images, you should be able to recover from any error in reinstallation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Then, investigate moving *non-system* folders, e.g., *Documents*, *Music*, *Photos* and *Videos*, to the larger, though slower, HDD. Keep Windows OS on the SSD for speed.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Make an inventory of all applications on your system. [KC Softwares' Sumo][2] might be helpful (note that the Zip version does not install adware, nor require any installation at all). Then you can decide what to keep and what is [bloatware][3].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Finally, during reinatallation, you can decide to keep all your files or start over from scratch. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://kcsoftwares.com/?download&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.comparitech.com/blog/information-security/remove-bloatware/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54549" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14812" RevisionGUID="45d98087-f1ea-4248-9567-1c14fc81178c" CreationDate="2021-04-26T05:21:25.050" UserId="17136" Text="[Here][1] is a laptop/tablet convertible that has pretty good specs for the price.  It only has 64GB of storage, so it really will be just for web applications, but it has enough storage for Windows updates.  The display is where this laptop excels.  It is a full HD (1920x1080) 11.6 inch touchscreen display, which you will not see on many budget laptops.  In my experience, the speakers on the Gateway laptops are subpar, but the headphone jack should fix this.  It is also in Windows 10 S mode, which you can replace with Windows 10 Home for free.  It even has better IO than a $1500+ MacBook Pro, so that's a plus ;).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I wouldn't bet money on it, but I have seen in some cases the new gateway laptops have an extra RAM and M.2 SSD slot.  I haven't used a 2 in 1 Gateway laptop, however, so don't buy it for this reason.  If the stock specs aren't good enough, don't expect to be able to upgrade it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not sure how exactly how long the battery would last on this laptop.  My Gateway laptop over 5 hours on a charge, but mine isn't a 2 in 1.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would highly recommend doing your own research in addition to mine as you know exactly what you are looking for.  Don't just take my word for it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/193935610926" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54550" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14813" RevisionGUID="a531085e-f7bd-4871-9aee-bb9ddbc3585a" CreationDate="2021-04-26T05:33:06.773" UserId="17136" Text="Most likely.  If your computer has the MX150 GPU, then definitely.  On a [Tomsguide forum post][1], people are running 4k monitors with the same GPU, so yours should handle QHD just fine.  Do you have a friend with a 4k TV you could test this with?  That would be the best, and cheapest, way to find out.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://forums.tomsguide.com/threads/can-the-mx150-4gb-vram-run-4k.432725/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54551" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14814" RevisionGUID="83afacdf-341c-4485-9cc1-88e77ae67375" CreationDate="2021-04-26T07:31:22.857" UserId="18481" Text="I'll be using the laptop mainly to build machine learning, deep learning models as well as well as databases. I'm aware that this sort of work entails a laptop with minimum 12 GB RAM, high end processors and a dedicated GPU but I currently cannot afford a laptop with that much power therefore any replies advising me to go for such a configuration is not helpful. I have a budget upto 45000 INR(approx 600 USD). I have shortlisted the two options listed below - &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) [Asus Vivobook 14 X412DA-EK503T](https://www.flipkart.com/asus-vivobook-14-ryzen-5-quad-core-3500u-2nd-gen-8-gb-512-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-x412da-ek503t-thin-light-laptop/p/itm5b6707a02a046?pid=COMFMCSBFCDGSPZK&amp;fm=organic&amp;ppt=dynamic&amp;ppn=dynamic&amp;ssid=uo9nx9y5ts0000001619350812623) [Was unable to find this model on Asus's website. If you scroll down you will find the specifications tab.]&#xD;&#xA;2) [Dell Inspiron 5509 i3 configuration](https://www.dell.com/en-in/shop/laptops-2-in-1-pcs/inspiron-15-laptop/spd/inspiron-15-5509-laptop?gacd=10415953-9015-5761040-286089351-0&amp;dgc=ST&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwppSEBhCGARIsANIs4p6Dp8StCwrOW4XuvKxE0HLBtaef_N5Idy3s4F27ekVTeaioJUtAUbkaAg6EEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The tools I'll be using most frequently:&#xD;&#xA;1) Visual Studio Code &#xD;&#xA;2) PgAdmin&#xD;&#xA;3) Postman&#xD;&#xA;4) Rstudio&#xD;&#xA;5) Jupyter notebooks&#xD;&#xA;6) Git&#xD;&#xA;7) Docker&#xD;&#xA;8) Figma(occasionally for wireframing and proto typing)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm going for 512GB SSD inspite of having to build databases mainly cos the databases I build will not be very big. I am not a gamer so the gaming experience is not important to me. I'm only interested in getting the most powerful system under this budget that can do a job on the tasks I mentioned earlier. Im looking for a definite choice between the 2 shortlisted options as well as recommendations that match my budget. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54552" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14814" RevisionGUID="83afacdf-341c-4485-9cc1-88e77ae67375" CreationDate="2021-04-26T07:31:22.857" UserId="18481" Text="Choosing between laptops for building machine learning models" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54553" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14814" RevisionGUID="83afacdf-341c-4485-9cc1-88e77ae67375" CreationDate="2021-04-26T07:31:22.857" UserId="18481" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;intel&gt;&lt;ryzen&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54554" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="54be0ebb-9d65-4000-99d3-4f9c0175f098" CreationDate="2021-04-26T09:24:05.273" UserId="17195" Text="DoesIntel  SFP+ with part number FTLX1471D3BCV-IT work with adapter X710?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two speculations:&#xD;&#xA; 1-The Intel Compatibility link (this [link][1]) lists only two LR optic modules (part numbers are FTLX1471D3BCV-I3 and FTLX1471D3BCVI31) and there is no module with an FTLX1471D3BCV-IT part number. What does &quot;-IT&quot; mean? It seems there is no SFP+ with this part number on the Intel website.&#xD;&#xA;2- In the SFP+ LR optics product brief (this [link][2]), in the beginning, there are pictures of 3 SFP+ modules. One of them is FTLX1471D3BCV-IT  (All of them have &quot;-IT&quot; in their part number)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://compatibleproducts.intel.com/ProductDetails?prodSearch=True&amp;searchTerm=Intel%C2%AE%20Ethernet%20Converged%20Network%20Adapter%20X710-DA2,%20DA4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ethernet-products/optics-cables/ethernet-sfp-optics-brief.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54555" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="54be0ebb-9d65-4000-99d3-4f9c0175f098" CreationDate="2021-04-26T09:24:05.273" UserId="17195" Text="Intel Converged Network Adapter X710-DA2 and E10GSFPLR" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54556" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="54be0ebb-9d65-4000-99d3-4f9c0175f098" CreationDate="2021-04-26T09:24:05.273" UserId="17195" Text="&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54557" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11358" RevisionGUID="2c3f8105-80f6-45e3-9191-c13423775473" CreationDate="2021-04-26T10:06:15.593" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54558" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="412228ae-0c4e-4c17-b3c0-5cbb1940efa0" CreationDate="2021-04-26T13:54:22.213" UserId="17195" Comment="added 87 characters in body" Text="DoesIntel  SFP+ with part number FTLX1471D3BCV-IT work with adapter X710?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two speculations:&#xD;&#xA; 1-The Intel Compatibility link (this [link][1]) lists only two LR optic modules (part numbers are FTLX1471D3BCV-I3 and FTLX1471D3BCVI31) and there is no module with an FTLX1471D3BCV-IT part number. What does &quot;-IT&quot; mean? It seems there is no SFP+ with this part number on the Intel website.&#xD;&#xA;2- In the SFP+ LR optics product brief (this [link][2]), in the beginning, there are pictures of 3 SFP+ modules. One of them is FTLX1471D3BCV-IT  (All of them have &quot;-IT&quot; in their part number)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I asked this question on the Intel community site, but no answer was received.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://compatibleproducts.intel.com/ProductDetails?prodSearch=True&amp;searchTerm=Intel%C2%AE%20Ethernet%20Converged%20Network%20Adapter%20X710-DA2,%20DA4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ethernet-products/optics-cables/ethernet-sfp-optics-brief.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54559" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="be2d1ef0-62b4-4cef-9242-f289fd8306f1" CreationDate="2021-04-28T05:32:15.543" UserId="17195" Comment="added 71 characters in body" Text="DoesIntel  SFP+ with part number FTLX1471D3BCV-IT work with adapter X710?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two speculations:&#xD;&#xA; 1-The Intel Compatibility link (this [link][1]) lists only two LR optic modules (part numbers are FTLX1471D3BCV-I3 and FTLX1471D3BCVI31) and there is no module with an FTLX1471D3BCV-IT part number. What does &quot;-IT&quot; mean? It seems there is no SFP+ with this part number on the Intel website.&#xD;&#xA;2- In the SFP+ LR optics product brief (this [link][2]), in the beginning, there are pictures of 3 SFP+ modules. One of them is FTLX1471D3BCV-IT  (All of them have &quot;-IT&quot; in their part number)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I asked this question on the Intel community site, thanks to Michael (Intel customer support technician), He said that they will provide a follow-up in 3 working days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://compatibleproducts.intel.com/ProductDetails?prodSearch=True&amp;searchTerm=Intel%C2%AE%20Ethernet%20Converged%20Network%20Adapter%20X710-DA2,%20DA4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ethernet-products/optics-cables/ethernet-sfp-optics-brief.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54560" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="97f3d3e2-0467-49c6-bf03-dae9320dd2e5" CreationDate="2021-04-28T05:41:04.867" UserId="17195" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="Does Intel  SFP+ with part number FTLX1471D3BCV-IT work with adapter X710?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two speculations:&#xD;&#xA; 1-The Intel Compatibility link (this [link][1]) lists only two LR optic modules (part numbers are FTLX1471D3BCV-I3 and FTLX1471D3BCVI31) and there is no module with an FTLX1471D3BCV-IT part number. What does &quot;-IT&quot; mean? It seems there is no SFP+ with this part number on the Intel website.&#xD;&#xA;2- In the SFP+ LR optics product brief (this [link][2]), in the beginning, there are pictures of 3 SFP+ modules. One of them is FTLX1471D3BCV-IT  (All of them have &quot;-IT&quot; in their part number)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I asked this question on the Intel community site, thanks to Michael (Intel customer support technician), He said that they will provide a follow-up in 3 working days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://compatibleproducts.intel.com/ProductDetails?prodSearch=True&amp;searchTerm=Intel%C2%AE%20Ethernet%20Converged%20Network%20Adapter%20X710-DA2,%20DA4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ethernet-products/optics-cables/ethernet-sfp-optics-brief.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54562" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14816" RevisionGUID="d50d0b9d-15d2-466f-913d-dc8f379c2a89" CreationDate="2021-04-28T15:11:33.167" UserId="1921" Text="http://www.norsam.com/rosetta.html&#xD;&#xA;http://www.norsam.com/lanlreport.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/132793-the-10-million-year-sapphire-hard-disk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Sapphire disc should last long enough." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54563" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14816" RevisionGUID="d061bd33-f9c9-4bda-9b1f-362d5d2b3e3e" CreationDate="2021-04-28T16:00:22.533" UserId="1921" Comment="added 132 characters in body" Text="http://www.norsam.com/rosetta.html&#xD;&#xA;http://www.norsam.com/lanlreport.html&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/132793-the-10-million-year-sapphire-hard-disk&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The Sapphire disc should last long enough.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There was even a kickstarter for it.  Apparently now you can actually do it from this website http://www.fahrenheit2451.com/&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54564" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14817" RevisionGUID="4f214dd5-559f-4324-be68-a17eb3810353" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:02:16.427" UserId="18496" Text="I'm sorry if I post in the wrong SE Site but I think this is the one that fits the best.  &#xD;&#xA;So here is my question:   &#xD;&#xA;**What is the minimal batch size that is required to manufacture a custom keyboard in China?**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I guess the answer is : it depends.&#xD;&#xA;I can make an unique keyboard but it will cost a lot of money.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is a batch of 1000 a viable expectation? Or does it need more (because of molding)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;By custom, I mean a little more than branding.&#xD;&#xA;It will be a high-grade full-size keyboard (Think Apple A1243 or bleujour keyboard)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - good typing quality (no loose key)&#xD;&#xA; - no ghosting&#xD;&#xA; - aluminium/metal front plate&#xD;&#xA; - bluetooth&#xD;&#xA; - 2 usb port at unconventional place &#xD;&#xA; - removable cord&#xD;&#xA; - slim, slim, slim and more slim&#xD;&#xA; - chiclet scissor&#xD;&#xA; - backlit (mono but different intensities)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;optional: &#xD;&#xA; - hub functionnality (usb2)&#xD;&#xA; - slot for charging rechargeable batteries (Ni-Mh ?)&#xD;&#xA; - color backlit&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Price goal for 1000 would be 90$ each (plus shipping) via direct sales (no benefits made on the keyboard).&#xD;&#xA;No printed fancy box" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54565" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14817" RevisionGUID="4f214dd5-559f-4324-be68-a17eb3810353" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:02:16.427" UserId="18496" Text="I can't find a keyboard tat suits me, how much to build a batch of 1000 custom keyboards in China?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54566" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14817" RevisionGUID="4f214dd5-559f-4324-be68-a17eb3810353" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:02:16.427" UserId="18496" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54567" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14818" RevisionGUID="654e9163-f842-4830-b2ba-ad102e53a494" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:15:11.087" UserId="18497" Text="I am running a small business from home and I am having latency issues currently. I identified my router as the likely culprit. I am looking for advice on appropriate hardware to solve the issue. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current setup&#xD;&#xA;------------&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - 3 business servers over LAN that are bandwidth intensive (up to 500Gb upload and 500Gb download per 24h) and require very low latency.&#xD;&#xA; - About 8 home devices over 5Ghz wifi that do regular home stuff (netflix, videoconference).&#xD;&#xA; - 940/940 Mbps internet connection (business contract).&#xD;&#xA; - A Synology RT1900AC router that I purchased before starting my business.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started experiencing network issue after adding the third server, mostly apparent during videoconference. I found out that the CPU of the router is often running at above max capacity, so I guess that this is the culprit. 5Ghz wifi coverage is good and I have no interference.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Could you help me decide between those options or suggest another option. I am not a networking professional so would appreciate something that is relatively easy to setup.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 1&#xD;&#xA;----&#xD;&#xA;Purchase a business grade router (no wifi) and use my current wifi router in bridge mode just for the wifi. Any recommendation on the router I should purchase?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Option 2&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;Just replace my wifi router by a new and better wifi 6 router. I really don't know what to look for based on my needs. I like the [Netgear AX120][1] (700$ CAD on amazon Canada), but don't know if it would do the job for the servers and it is targeted for a home usage (I'm more hybrid). Any suggestion on what I should buy? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks a lot!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.netgear.com/home/wifi/routers/rax120/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54568" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14818" RevisionGUID="654e9163-f842-4830-b2ba-ad102e53a494" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:15:11.087" UserId="18497" Text="Advice on network hardware for business at home in 2021" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54569" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14818" RevisionGUID="654e9163-f842-4830-b2ba-ad102e53a494" CreationDate="2021-04-28T18:15:11.087" UserId="18497" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;networking&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54570" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14819" RevisionGUID="5bf9fabf-4b74-4d09-bb31-909ce2f1b103" CreationDate="2021-04-28T23:41:35.640" UserId="18498" Text="I always recommend Keychron keyboards. They are reasonably priced, have a range of different options (layouts and switch mechanisms), most are wireless with a battery charged via USB and can also be used as a wired keyboard. Build quality is excellent and first party accessories are available (carry cases, matching palm rests, etc) with basic accessories included in the box (such as Windows / Mac key caps).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mine has LK Optical Red switches. If you type softly, it is completely silent. If you type aggressively you'll get complaints from next door. I didn't find it to hard to learn how to type gently but YMMV...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Their quietest switch is probably Cherry MX Red if you install an aftermarket mod to dampen the upstroke (I wouldn't worry about downstroke on any red switch). I would use these, except I've had problems with humidity and/or dust eventually causing the switch to malfunction. Optical switches are more resilient to harsh environments.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It has &quot;Fancy blinkenlights&quot;, but some profiles are tasteful (e.g. white) and you can drop the brightness to zero. Check the manual to learn how to disable the light profile switch so it cannot be changed by accident. I started with white, but eventually switched to a rainbow layout - it's quicker to find my resting hand position by color instead of feeling for the F/K bumps." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54571" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11475" RevisionGUID="c24999d1-f245-4730-8d01-c1d4e7ca389f" CreationDate="2021-04-29T00:05:20.743" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54574" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14820" RevisionGUID="907a51bb-678f-4ffa-89e3-b990f3f60ff2" CreationDate="2021-04-29T08:48:18.097" UserId="10216" Text="I'm looking for a highly portable laptop stand which has space for a keyboard to live underneath the laptop. I can touch type so no issue with not seeing the keyboard. My current stand forces the laptop screen to be too far away." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54575" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14820" RevisionGUID="907a51bb-678f-4ffa-89e3-b990f3f60ff2" CreationDate="2021-04-29T08:48:18.097" UserId="10216" Text="Laptop stand with space for keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54576" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14820" RevisionGUID="907a51bb-678f-4ffa-89e3-b990f3f60ff2" CreationDate="2021-04-29T08:48:18.097" UserId="10216" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;docking-stations&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54581" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14822" RevisionGUID="12d00f9a-20f4-4643-a493-084c4e687c66" CreationDate="2021-04-30T18:40:44.417" UserId="18504" Text="So I reccomend that you get a laptop, preferably windows surface. A monitor. A good wifi connection, and a laptop stand. I also reccomend some other things. Like usb extensions, a mouse and keyboard mouse pad for comfort, I reccomend a mechanical keyboard too, not for gaming but because they are comfortable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I hoped this helped. PLease let me know if you need more info." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54583" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14824" RevisionGUID="c94f950f-2ac7-4837-a7c2-1658ff22a999" CreationDate="2021-05-01T16:17:33.067" UserId="18507" Text="I'm having trouble with my new GPU and I think it's a power issue, and I would like a recommendation about what PSU to buy (if my PSU isn't good enough).  &#xD;&#xA;**The setup:** PSU Mars Gaming MPII 550, CPU i5-10400  &#xD;&#xA;**The problem:** I installed yesterday, for the first time, my GPU GTX 970. The PSU doesn't have the necessary power cables (2x6pin), so I used adapters: 2x4pin-to-6pin, and SATA-to-6pin. The PC turns on, performs basic tasks and plays old games, but reboots when under stress (opening a newer game or performing an UserBenchmark test).   &#xD;&#xA;**The solution:** Could a EVGA 600BR, which is more powerful than the MPII and has the necessary 2x6pin power cables, solve my problem? If not, what do you recommend trying?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54584" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14824" RevisionGUID="c94f950f-2ac7-4837-a7c2-1658ff22a999" CreationDate="2021-05-01T16:17:33.067" UserId="18507" Text="Should I buy a EVGA 600 BR? Should this solve my problem?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54585" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14824" RevisionGUID="c94f950f-2ac7-4837-a7c2-1658ff22a999" CreationDate="2021-05-01T16:17:33.067" UserId="18507" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;power-supply&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54586" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14825" RevisionGUID="2c4958a9-9462-44c7-864f-e9eeaa7c0fc0" CreationDate="2021-05-02T00:33:30.553" UserId="18509" Text="I am looking for a wireless &quot;home security&quot; type camera that has an onboard web interface I can access, instead of one that forces me to sign up for an external service - even a &quot;free&quot; service.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I started out years ago with the D-Link DCS-930 and DCS-932L wireless cameras, which allow direct wifi access, and wrote my own (very simple) website to access them remotely from my phone.   Unfortunately, those cameras gradually stopped working over time, and their direct replacement, the D-Link DCS-936L, has also been discontinued.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have tried more modern camera models from Wyze and D-Link, but they have removed all direct access and now demand that you pipe your camera video through their &quot;free&quot; sites in order to use their hardware.    &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would rather keep direct control of the video feeds from inside my home, instead of sending them through a server at Google or Ring or D-Link or Wyze where they could be watched by - well, anybody, really.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is anyone aware of a wireless camera that still has this capability?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54587" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14825" RevisionGUID="2c4958a9-9462-44c7-864f-e9eeaa7c0fc0" CreationDate="2021-05-02T00:33:30.553" UserId="18509" Text="Wireless home security camera that doesn't require a service signup?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54588" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14825" RevisionGUID="2c4958a9-9462-44c7-864f-e9eeaa7c0fc0" CreationDate="2021-05-02T00:33:30.553" UserId="18509" Text="&lt;home-security&gt;&lt;home-electronics&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54589" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12870" RevisionGUID="1a6edb6a-a11a-4472-b79d-5d474dbb889a" CreationDate="2021-05-02T02:06:15.680" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54590" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14815" RevisionGUID="8bc1cb33-b714-4167-99bc-ed386a8deaef" CreationDate="2021-05-02T05:45:10.120" UserId="17195" Comment="added 72 characters in body" Text="Does Intel  SFP+ with part number FTLX1471D3BCV-IT work with adapter X710?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Two speculations:&#xD;&#xA; 1-The Intel Compatibility link (this [link][1]) lists only two LR optic modules (part numbers are FTLX1471D3BCV-I3 and FTLX1471D3BCVI31) and there is no module with an FTLX1471D3BCV-IT part number. What does &quot;-IT&quot; mean? It seems there is no SFP+ with this part number on the Intel website.&#xD;&#xA;2- In the SFP+ LR optics product brief (this [link][2]), in the beginning, there are pictures of 3 SFP+ modules. One of them is FTLX1471D3BCV-IT  (All of them have &quot;-IT&quot; in their part number)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I asked this question on the Intel community site, thanks to Michael (Intel customer support technician), He said that they will provide a follow-up in 3 working days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;P.S. I haven't received any response yet after more than three days.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://compatibleproducts.intel.com/ProductDetails?prodSearch=True&amp;searchTerm=Intel%C2%AE%20Ethernet%20Converged%20Network%20Adapter%20X710-DA2,%20DA4&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ethernet-products/optics-cables/ethernet-sfp-optics-brief.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54591" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14826" RevisionGUID="40ad07bd-4415-4d07-bcea-b3eac22ea6b7" CreationDate="2021-05-02T13:25:51.310" UserId="9838" Text="I need a widescreen monitor for graphic design and programming.&#xD;&#xA;The monitor will be connected to a ThinkPad X1 Yoga (gen. 2).&#xD;&#xA;Specs:&#xD;&#xA;- Flat, not curved&#xD;&#xA;- IPS Panel&#xD;&#xA;- Anti Glare Display&#xD;&#xA;- QuadHD or 4K&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What monitor can you recommend?&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54592" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14826" RevisionGUID="40ad07bd-4415-4d07-bcea-b3eac22ea6b7" CreationDate="2021-05-02T13:25:51.310" UserId="9838" Text="Widescreen monitor for graphic design and programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54593" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14826" RevisionGUID="40ad07bd-4415-4d07-bcea-b3eac22ea6b7" CreationDate="2021-05-02T13:25:51.310" UserId="9838" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54594" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14827" RevisionGUID="9503c652-cbd8-41b4-b17b-4b21a46bbf92" CreationDate="2021-05-02T18:15:50.537" UserId="18512" Text="I'm looking for SOC/miniPC to make small home usage router. I'm looking for smthing like that: https://aliexpress.ru/item/32860851243.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.acd74a80odWjAa&amp;algo_pvid=d0a63443-d060-4523-9eef-e2b48b65a663&amp;algo_expid=d0a63443-d060-4523-9eef-e2b48b65a663-2&amp;btsid=0b8b15d416199781020496412e347d&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But with following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;- One full-size PCI-Express (for Compex WLE600VX wifi card)&#xD;&#xA;- One full-size or half size PCI-Express (for another 2.4Ghz wifi)&#xD;&#xA;- One full-size or half size mSATA/M.2 (for SSD)&#xD;&#xA;- One SATA (for 2.5 HDD)&#xD;&#xA;- 1 Gigabit Ethernet (for WAN)&#xD;&#xA;- ARM/ARM64/x86/x86_64 processor with low TDP&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It would be good to have but not required:&#xD;&#xA;- power delivery power input&#xD;&#xA;- 1 COM port&#xD;&#xA;- Second Ethernet (for LAN)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It can have case or it can be just board like RPI." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54595" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14827" RevisionGUID="9503c652-cbd8-41b4-b17b-4b21a46bbf92" CreationDate="2021-05-02T18:15:50.537" UserId="18512" Text="SOC/MiniPC for router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54596" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14827" RevisionGUID="9503c652-cbd8-41b4-b17b-4b21a46bbf92" CreationDate="2021-05-02T18:15:50.537" UserId="18512" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;mini-pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54597" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14828" RevisionGUID="ce876e5c-6db3-4bc3-b626-929bab8c588d" CreationDate="2021-05-02T18:55:50.687" UserId="6089" Text="I've purchased a couple of years ago an in-house wireless camera system made by Tonton, currently available via [Amazon][1].&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I did not want any requirement for outside network access and the linked system does not appear to require it. The router engages the cameras automatically and does share my home network, but that merely allows me to view the cameras via my phone on my local network, rather than to have to change to the camera routers network to do so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The image quality is quite good and the installation was easy. Probably the most difficult aspect of installation is mounting the cameras in the desired locations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![tonton camera system][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Image courtesy Amazon link&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Tonton-Wireless-Security-Recorder-Waterproof/dp/B07D76224M?th=1&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/PF4sN.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54601" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14774" RevisionGUID="ea0ac481-f43a-4f1d-b021-c8785b6eb793" CreationDate="2021-05-02T19:13:43.197" UserId="4495" Comment="typos corrected" Text="I want to replace my iPhone 7 Plus with smaller device. Unfortunately, it is quite hard to find a good phone. Could you please advise me?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Usage: calls, messaging, music, working with my photo gallery and taking some photos when I do not have my DSLR camera present.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I found these ones: &#xD;&#xA; - Google Pixel 4a &#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy S10e &#xD;&#xA; - iPhone XS, 11 Pro, 12 Mini, SE 2020&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; &#xD;&#xA;https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nYearMin=2018&amp;nHeightMax=145&amp;nRamMin=2000&amp;sOSes=2,3&amp;sOSversions=2920,2910,2900,2810,3940,3930,3920,3910,3900,3800,3700&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Surprisingly, no Huawei, Xiaomi in the list.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately, Pixel is not officially present in Czech Republic and S10e is sold with Exynos only. 12 Mini is too expensive for my needs." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54602" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14774" RevisionGUID="ea0ac481-f43a-4f1d-b021-c8785b6eb793" CreationDate="2021-05-02T19:13:43.197" Comment="Proposed by 4495 approved by 203, 8 edit id of 1173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54603" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13183" RevisionGUID="7c186d7d-9fd2-4a0e-b056-8b1c3f8d95ea" CreationDate="2021-05-02T19:14:18.963" UserId="9825" Comment="Add reference web link " Text="I have a Thinkpad T480 that has the stock [Intel Core i5-8350U][1] vPro MB (1.70ghz) CPU in it.  It really just is not enough CPU for what I do with it once I dock it and hook it up to my dual monitors.  I haven't been able to find any information on compatible CPUs or if the upgrade is just plug and play or if its soldered.  I was thinking of upgrading to an Intel i7-9700 9th generation but I don't know if it is compatible or not.  Just hoping for a recommendation on what to purchase that will fit. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54604" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="13183" RevisionGUID="7c186d7d-9fd2-4a0e-b056-8b1c3f8d95ea" CreationDate="2021-05-02T19:14:18.963" Comment="Proposed by 9825 approved by 7556, 8 edit id of 1061" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54605" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5900" RevisionGUID="0df5c91b-2e47-40d2-bab2-76350b922088" CreationDate="2021-05-02T20:00:35.057" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54606" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14829" RevisionGUID="9c412cf3-f2ae-4918-8934-9a6448d9b685" CreationDate="2021-05-02T22:46:37.037" UserId="18515" Text="Just don't buy SSD 2nd hand. After Chia there will be another file coin, just like it happened with all the CPU then GPU mining coins. &#xD;&#xA;I would expect people to sell SSD cheap right before they die. So no 2nd hand SSDs. &#xD;&#xA;HDD are mostly used as storage in file coins mining, the SSDs are the intense use victims in this story." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54607" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14830" RevisionGUID="4722a8ec-b1e2-4413-b627-bd797cbd5c79" CreationDate="2021-05-03T11:33:17.980" UserId="18516" Text="Is there such router which can do multi-wan via:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - multiple USB modems; or&#xD;&#xA; - multiple ethernet; or&#xD;&#xA; - mixed&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I'm trying to achieve is having a high available network at my remote area with 2 ISP. Each ISP can be tapped via ethernet. While at the same time, whenever one of the ISP is down, I can plug a USB modem so technically I still have 2 ISPs.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is there such device for such purpose? I've been looking online and found [Netgate SG-1100](https://shop.netgate.com/products/1100-pfsense) to be a viable solution. Do you know of something else?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54608" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14830" RevisionGUID="4722a8ec-b1e2-4413-b627-bd797cbd5c79" CreationDate="2021-05-03T11:33:17.980" UserId="18516" Text="Router with multi-wan via multiple USB modems and ethernet" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54609" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14830" RevisionGUID="4722a8ec-b1e2-4413-b627-bd797cbd5c79" CreationDate="2021-05-03T11:33:17.980" UserId="18516" Text="&lt;router&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54610" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14831" RevisionGUID="a71bd718-704b-4381-8700-6b53d4b9f053" CreationDate="2021-05-03T19:22:55.490" UserId="18433" Text="Hi I got an architectural indoor scene that I want to render 250 frames in 4K. I got the samples down to 300 with the denoiser. ( Cycles, blender 2.90 ). I tried to upload the animation to a render farm but ended up paying 200+ USD since my computer isn't good enough. If I had a Ryzen thread ripper and a rtf 3080, would I be able to render the animation sequence without a render farm and about how long would it take? Understand all scenes are different depending on allot of reasons but for a quite heavy interior scene. Unfortunately I can't share images since I signed a NDA.     " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54611" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14831" RevisionGUID="a71bd718-704b-4381-8700-6b53d4b9f053" CreationDate="2021-05-03T19:22:55.490" UserId="18433" Text="4K 250 frames Architectural animation Is it possible to render?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54612" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14831" RevisionGUID="a71bd718-704b-4381-8700-6b53d4b9f053" CreationDate="2021-05-03T19:22:55.490" UserId="18433" Text="&lt;rendering&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54613" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14832" RevisionGUID="7e83ce4a-dea1-470b-83b2-d00aa357631d" CreationDate="2021-05-04T03:24:00.487" UserId="9248" Text="I am looking for a keyboard that is similar to the [Utechsmart Saturn][1], which appears to be discontinued, and of which there are only a few used models on eBay.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Spacious.&#xD;&#xA;- No annoying &quot;blue key switches&quot; that make a dreadful racket when one types.&#xD;&#xA;- Most importantly, inexpensive. I think this keyboard used to be around 20 US dollars. &#xD;&#xA;- A broad handrest.&#xD;&#xA;- A backlit keyboard with a choice of several different colors (ideally with something pink or light purple) and a standard layout. No strange gaming key islands. &#xD;&#xA;- Although the Saturn does not meet this qualification, something that does not have an extreme &quot;gamer&quot; aesthetic. &#xD;&#xA;- Wired, ideally. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Are there any good keyboards that match this description? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://utechsmart.com/product/show/id/483/Saturn" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54614" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14832" RevisionGUID="7e83ce4a-dea1-470b-83b2-d00aa357631d" CreationDate="2021-05-04T03:24:00.487" UserId="9248" Text="Keyboard similar to Utechsmart Saturn" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54615" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14832" RevisionGUID="7e83ce4a-dea1-470b-83b2-d00aa357631d" CreationDate="2021-05-04T03:24:00.487" UserId="9248" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54616" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14833" RevisionGUID="505e6016-b4a0-41ab-af37-d70fd2f929fb" CreationDate="2021-05-04T12:48:14.927" UserId="18524" Text="I currently have a cheap budget AA &amp; AAA charger which can only charge batteries in pairs of two, and which does not do a good job on older batteries.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm looking for a good quality charger with these features:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- can charge batteries individually, not just in pairs of 2&#xD;&#xA;- can 'revive' older batteries so to speak, or charge batteries which don't charge well anymore in other chargers&#xD;&#xA;- doesn't require manual finetuning, I don't want to be hassling with voltage or amperage myself, it should preferably 'smart' charge any battery automatically&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Especially that 2nd point seemed contradictory to me, but I've read several reviews and user experiences where this really makes a difference amongst chargers. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I've heard some good things about the Ansmann Powerline 4 Light and the Opus BT C3100. And several others come out well in different reviews too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Any hints, tips, suggestions, personal experiences?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54617" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14833" RevisionGUID="505e6016-b4a0-41ab-af37-d70fd2f929fb" CreationDate="2021-05-04T12:48:14.927" UserId="18524" Text="Good battery charger for AA+AAA batteries, especially for older batteries that don't charge well in other chargers" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54618" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14833" RevisionGUID="505e6016-b4a0-41ab-af37-d70fd2f929fb" CreationDate="2021-05-04T12:48:14.927" UserId="18524" Text="&lt;battery-life&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54619" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14159" RevisionGUID="70a8be44-b6d6-4abc-b13a-9562e71366a4" CreationDate="2021-05-04T14:03:20.493" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54620" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14834" RevisionGUID="e083bfe2-2316-4885-b88d-b1793cd076d3" CreationDate="2021-05-04T15:40:41.590" UserId="16114" Text="&#xD;&#xA;I am considering purchasing [this machine][1] but 8GB of RAM just doesn't cut it!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I do a search for &quot;`Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54-5812 ram upgrade`&quot; and I get the following two links (links 1 &amp; 3 for me here) - [Crucial][2] and [MrMemory][3], both of which say that 64GB (drooling at the mouth now...) is the max.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, not wanting to mess up and being thorough in these matters, I looked at the user questions on Amazon and I [found these][4]:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Question:What's max ram this nitro can be upgraded?&#xD;&#xA;    Answer:32GB using two memory slots.&#xD;&#xA;    &#xD;&#xA;    Acer America Manufacturer · July 10, 2020&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&lt;`Gulp... there goes my 64GB...`&gt;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and also:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Question:Might be a bad question but which version is this nitro 5? Like is it a 2018 or 2020 version? Or am i just dumb and there are no versions like that&#xD;&#xA;    Answer:This version is the 2020 Nitro, and there is a 2019 Nitro- not sure about 2018 though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;and (searching for RTX 2060), I found:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;    Q: Can i upgrade up to 32gb of ram?&#xD;&#xA;    A: For the rtx 2060 version, it supports until 64gb (2x32gb). I tested it with crucial sticks.&#xD;&#xA;    By Cliente Amazon on November 10, 2020&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, the machine's spec is GTX 1650 - and I'm not clear on why, exactly, the graphics card would determine what the maximum RAM is?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, I'm unclear as to whether the first Acer Nitro 5's were only suitable for 32GB but now that they're good for 64GB - or what?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard model (as best as I can determine) is `EH5VF LA-H501P` and a search for that with the string &quot;`maximum ram`&quot; didn't come up with a definitive number - it did give me back the Crucial page from above - there's a compatible model `AN515-54-54W2-US` and I searched for that with max RAM and I also got 64GB from Crucial. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would be grateful if someone could tell me whether it's worth risking buying 64GB or RAM for this machine? References/URLs appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Is the extra RAM a bit like overclocking - it'll work, it's just not supported (don't really care about this) or will it not work at all and am I potentially wasting my money?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should you require any further information, please don't hesitate to ping me back.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-i5-9300H-GeForce-Keyboard-AN515-54-5812/dp/B086KJBKDW/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=laptop%20asus%20nitro%205&amp;qid=1620138907&amp;sr=8-10&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://eu.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/acer/nitro-an515-54-5812&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://www.mrmemory.co.uk/memory-ram-upgrades/acer/nitro-notebook/an515-54-5812&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B086KJBKDW/2/ref=ask_dp_iaw_ql_hza?isAnswered=true#question-Tx1GT2RD7Y6IO6Q&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54621" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14834" RevisionGUID="e083bfe2-2316-4885-b88d-b1793cd076d3" CreationDate="2021-05-04T15:40:41.590" UserId="16114" Text="Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54-5812 RAM upgrade - manufacturer or what Crucial/MrMemory say? 32GB or 64GB?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54622" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14834" RevisionGUID="e083bfe2-2316-4885-b88d-b1793cd076d3" CreationDate="2021-05-04T15:40:41.590" UserId="16114" Text="&lt;memory&gt;&lt;upgrade&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54633" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14837" RevisionGUID="9a5a5a03-34e1-48a7-a671-efb75d454c1e" CreationDate="2021-05-05T00:00:23.127" UserId="17251" Text="I have a Powerex MH-C9000 WizardOne (by Maha?), that has served me VERY well for several years. It was probably one of the most pricy chargers available when I bought it, but I don't think the ones you mentioned were available back then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Unfortunately It is discontinued, but still available from many stockists as at May 2021. The new version &quot;Powerex MH-C9000PRO&quot; is very similar, just doesn't have the Cycle Mode, (frankly not a big issue as I only ever got a few percent increase in capacity using it. If you really want to emulate the process, just do a Refresh 2 or 3 times or more.) and the Car adapter is an optional extra instead of being included.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Charges 1-4 AA or AAA NiMH or NiCD batteries via 4 independent slots. Can &quot;Revive&quot; batteries. Will charge any compatible battery automatically without intervention, but has 4 other modes if necessary (I.e. You need to decide when to do a Refresh or Break-In, it does the rest, or you can tinker with Charge and Discharge rates if you want to)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As it reports the actual full charge capacity, you can easily decide when to do a refresh if you make a few notes over the weeks and months.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;All Modes: Charge Mode, Discharge Only mode, Refresh and Analyze Mode, Break-in Mode and Cycle Mode.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Mainly used on Eneloop and Eneloop Pro batteries. It has done quite notable recoveries on batteries that other chargers have &quot;messed up&quot;, something like 30% capacity back up to 80%, just don't expect miracle recoveries on batteries exclusively charged by the Powerex... they seem to slowly decay with age over the years down to 80% or so and then die entirely.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;mahaenergy.com have several other models too." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54637" PostHistoryTypeId="33" PostId="14826" RevisionGUID="14e5791c-0ae6-4355-b7db-c33b87e58985" CreationDate="2021-05-05T07:57:39.547" UserId="9838" Comment="105" />
  <row Id="54638" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12677" RevisionGUID="d4449f58-5b6b-4c08-8d83-0c1629e4e13c" CreationDate="2021-05-05T08:27:57.637" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54639" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14839" RevisionGUID="9a0e52ec-83c0-4a32-a135-9ce858aea07e" CreationDate="2021-05-05T09:18:50.477" UserId="7092" Text="In terms of monitors that fit the resolution and panel type, [here's a filtered list][1] from pcpartpicker.com&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;With respect to anti-glare, there's no filter on pcpartpicker.com for that feature, but you could buy an aftermarket device to prevent glare. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It's worth noting that anti-glare filters can have a negative impact on image quality, however, by making the image appear fuzzier or grainier in certain instances, such as when displaying the colour white and other light colours.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#P=2&amp;w=1&amp;C=0&amp;r=256001440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54640" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14840" RevisionGUID="7c157d28-2de2-4835-bd25-600d53ec2ad7" CreationDate="2021-05-05T09:24:42.557" UserId="7092" Text="I use something similar to this in the office, which allows my keyboard to be parked under the leading edge of the stand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/r-go-riser-flexible-laptop-stand-adjustable-black/apd/ab538697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54641" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14841" RevisionGUID="71f9b0b0-abe6-4089-8d47-5faf3a8e6a5c" CreationDate="2021-05-05T16:35:22.783" UserId="18536" Text="So, I am thinking of getting a better gaming mouse under 20$ which could get me good cps. This is as I would like to learn breezily, and godbridging in minecraft bedwars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have currently seen only redragon phaser m609 and m601, and I have seen some youtube tutorials on how to drag click on m601, but I am unsure that if this is my best choice. If anyone could recommend me a better mouse, it would be really helpful.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, I don't know if I can ask these type of questions here, if I can't, then please tell me where can I, and I will ask this question there.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I live in India, and I am okay with price range of under 2000 inr. Also, I would prefer mice present on Amazon/Flipkart." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54642" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14841" RevisionGUID="71f9b0b0-abe6-4089-8d47-5faf3a8e6a5c" CreationDate="2021-05-05T16:35:22.783" UserId="18536" Text="Is the redragon m601 good for drag clicking?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54643" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14841" RevisionGUID="71f9b0b0-abe6-4089-8d47-5faf3a8e6a5c" CreationDate="2021-05-05T16:35:22.783" UserId="18536" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54645" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14842" RevisionGUID="655bd545-5905-478d-ba3d-e2eba96f8be1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T20:30:52.003" UserId="10307" Text="I am looking for a tablet that could replace a Fire HD 8 (2017) for my preschool child. So the use case is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Watch offline video&#xD;&#xA;* Listen to offline music and audio books&#xD;&#xA;* Run a few select apps for children which require a WiFi connection&#xD;&#xA;* All of the above should normally work without headphones&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Must haves&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 8 or 10 inch screen size&#xD;&#xA;* weight suitable for a preschool child to carry and throw (!) around&#xD;&#xA;* 3.5 mm audio jack&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi&#xD;&#xA;* support for a microSD of at least 400 GB&#xD;&#xA;* 2 GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;* hardware acceleration for H.246 encoded video&#xD;&#xA;* ability to root without any soldering or opening the device&#xD;&#xA;* USB-C charging port (because direction doesn't matter and it's physically sturdier than micro-USB)&#xD;&#xA;* decent battery life as can be expected from a modern tablet&#xD;&#xA;* availability of a protective case&#xD;&#xA;    * **either** readily available child-proof case (preferably one were the handle doubles as stand)&#xD;&#xA;    * **or** a form factor mostly compatible with another tablet which has such a case&#xD;&#xA;* availability of a _tempered glass_ screen protector&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Preferred&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* 3 GB RAM or more&#xD;&#xA;* ability to use Google Play Store (while rooted)&#xD;&#xA;* hardware acceleration for H.246 **and** H.265&#xD;&#xA;* replaceable battery&#xD;&#xA;* WiFi 6 support&#xD;&#xA;* Compatibility with LineageOS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Optional&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Cameras&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Explicitly absent&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Any mobile internet modem&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;### Price point&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* Preferably below 300 €, but not _considerably_ above 400 €" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54646" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14842" RevisionGUID="655bd545-5905-478d-ba3d-e2eba96f8be1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T20:30:52.003" UserId="10307" Text="Android tablet for preschool kid, mostly for offline use, with some specific exceptions" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54647" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14842" RevisionGUID="655bd545-5905-478d-ba3d-e2eba96f8be1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T20:30:52.003" UserId="10307" Text="&lt;android&gt;&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54648" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="9f73516d-30dd-4108-b2f2-f293a36fc724" CreationDate="2021-05-06T04:46:40.847" UserId="18536" Text="My question is what is the best gaming mouse that can drag click/ butterfly high cps for godbridging available on amazon.in. I am okay with any mouse that can get me high rmb cps under 60$ as of now in 2021." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54649" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="9f73516d-30dd-4108-b2f2-f293a36fc724" CreationDate="2021-05-06T04:46:40.847" UserId="18536" Text="Best gaming mouse for India under 60$ (4400 inr)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54650" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="9f73516d-30dd-4108-b2f2-f293a36fc724" CreationDate="2021-05-06T04:46:40.847" UserId="18536" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;mice&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54651" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14460" RevisionGUID="52368019-5649-4616-8038-5151e90e7f15" CreationDate="2021-05-06T05:02:45.367" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54652" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14844" RevisionGUID="96e8791b-e1d0-454b-8719-922a2245650d" CreationDate="2021-05-06T09:05:38.187" UserId="13572" Text="I'd recommend the Samsung Galaxy A7 2020 Wi-Fi. It does feature an audio jack, microSD slot and reasonable performance, and is [apparently rootable][1] too.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;No LineageOS (yet?) support or easily replaceable battery though.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/guide-sm-t500-t505-galaxy-tab-a7-10-4-unlock-bootloader-root-with-magisk.4185993/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54653" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14845" RevisionGUID="91657ed9-4024-4a3d-9f30-90f5198d2525" CreationDate="2021-05-06T15:45:29.537" UserId="18550" Text="I am currently looking into buying a new machine and am confronted with the choice between DDR4 and LPDDR4X RAM. Online, I found various contradictory discussions on the trade-offs between the two types. LPDDR4X supposedly has a higher data transfer rate, but DDR4 apparently has a stronger busing technology. The machine I want to buy is a laptop that I use for data science computations, often focused on geo-spatial data, machine learning etc. that take a few hours or days at maximum CPU load. While outsourcing some computations to a cloud server, for convenience reasons, I still run many of them locally on the laptop. Therefore, I would like to buy the faster type of RAM. Which one performs better: DDR4 or LPDDR4X?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54654" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14845" RevisionGUID="91657ed9-4024-4a3d-9f30-90f5198d2525" CreationDate="2021-05-06T15:45:29.537" UserId="18550" Text="DDR4 and LPDDR4X Performance" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54655" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14845" RevisionGUID="91657ed9-4024-4a3d-9f30-90f5198d2525" CreationDate="2021-05-06T15:45:29.537" UserId="18550" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54657" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14847" RevisionGUID="4d764b33-7bfc-48ce-ad91-f3e8856de7e0" CreationDate="2021-05-06T17:52:37.050" UserId="18550" Text="Around two years ago, I bought a new laptop with a GPU that can support applications going beyond regular office software. Over time, it turned out to not have been a great choice of hardware. Even when using simple programs, the GPU has a noisy fan running at higher speed. It is like sitting in front of an aircraft engine.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, my employer offered to buy a new work laptop, and unlike the above described private machine I really need this device to be quiet. It is okay, if the fan turns up when running CPU-heavy computations. But I cannot have the GPU alone adding substantial noise already at baseline levels. Therefore, I want to make sure that I pick the right hardware this time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can choose between two models. The first device has a *4 GB NVIDIA T500* and *Intel Iris Xe Graphics* built in. The second one entails a *2 GB NVIDIA GeForce MX450* and *Intel Iris Xe Graphics*. Which of the two alternatives is likely to be the quieter solution?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54658" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14847" RevisionGUID="4d764b33-7bfc-48ce-ad91-f3e8856de7e0" CreationDate="2021-05-06T17:52:37.050" UserId="18550" Text="Laptop GPU Noise" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54659" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14847" RevisionGUID="4d764b33-7bfc-48ce-ad91-f3e8856de7e0" CreationDate="2021-05-06T17:52:37.050" UserId="18550" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54660" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14847" RevisionGUID="1ccff137-cc3f-430c-ac6c-bcfca7c2835e" CreationDate="2021-05-06T17:59:44.513" UserId="18550" Comment="edited tags" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;cooling&gt;&lt;quiet-computing&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54662" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="8ac282bd-bb66-4cc5-8046-1a6680c1a90f" CreationDate="2021-05-07T03:29:11.927" UserId="18536" Comment="a few question modifications" Text="My question is what is the best gaming mouse that can drag click/ butterfly high cps for godbridging available on amazon.in. I am okay with any mouse that can get me high rmb cps under 60$ as of now in 2021. I live in India, so please recommend mice that are available to buy them in India.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Bump, why is no one answering" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54663" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="8ac282bd-bb66-4cc5-8046-1a6680c1a90f" CreationDate="2021-05-07T03:29:11.927" UserId="18536" Comment="a few question modifications" Text="Best gaming mouse for drag clicking under 60$ (4400 inr)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54664" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11688" RevisionGUID="13273e8e-4d3a-4d69-9753-70044f45da2b" CreationDate="2021-05-07T04:01:50.160" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54665" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14848" RevisionGUID="cf4d7b29-ef41-4c67-b381-8b4073f7b66e" CreationDate="2021-05-07T08:37:11.740" UserId="18547" Text="As far as my simple research goes, you should pick the thickest one. Thick laptops have more room for cooling and will be quieter. Both have the same tdp range (18-25W) so the level of quietness is for the best cooling solution" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54666" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14849" RevisionGUID="a6a52242-25a2-4400-9f71-f4f2059e670b" CreationDate="2021-05-07T15:10:40.040" UserId="18555" Text="I have noticed that my PC build seems to struggle a bit doing certain tasks in blender such as rendering and baking. Just wondering if there is anything obvious about my PC build that can be upgraded to speed things aloung a bit without breaking the bank.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have noticed that my GPU, CPU and RAM never seems to be fully utilised on task manager (around 50 percent for all).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Setup is as follows:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Pro NVIDEA GeForce RTX 3070 AMD RYZEN 3600 6-Core Processor - 3.59GHz 16gb Corsair RAM 64Bit Op&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If somebody could point me in the right direction for upgrades I would be very thankfull." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54667" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14849" RevisionGUID="a6a52242-25a2-4400-9f71-f4f2059e670b" CreationDate="2021-05-07T15:10:40.040" UserId="18555" Text="PC recomandations for using Blender" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54668" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14849" RevisionGUID="a6a52242-25a2-4400-9f71-f4f2059e670b" CreationDate="2021-05-07T15:10:40.040" UserId="18555" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54669" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14850" RevisionGUID="99d2cbca-a6f7-43e7-ae92-bdafabe855f0" CreationDate="2021-05-07T18:04:32.473" UserId="18559" Text="Currently, we have a configuration with 4xRTX 2080 Ti GPUs used for deep learning (keras and pytorch), and we'd like to upgrade the server with additional card(s). RTX 3090 and RTX 8000 came up as options - 3090 would be probably better given its lower price (we don't need _that_ much memory), but I'm not sure if mixing multiple GPU architectures is a great idea. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anyone have experience with that?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54670" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14850" RevisionGUID="99d2cbca-a6f7-43e7-ae92-bdafabe855f0" CreationDate="2021-05-07T18:04:32.473" UserId="18559" Text="Mixing different GPU architectures for deep learning?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54671" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14850" RevisionGUID="99d2cbca-a6f7-43e7-ae92-bdafabe855f0" CreationDate="2021-05-07T18:04:32.473" UserId="18559" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;nvidia&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54672" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14851" RevisionGUID="c55303c5-87f4-4770-912e-2401eb7ebefe" CreationDate="2021-05-08T03:19:13.367" UserId="17136" Text="I had the Kyocera Duraforce Pro for a while and loved it.  The sapphire shield worked really well as it never cracked or even got a scratch on the screen.  I dropped that think all the time and it was still in very good condition after I bought it.  The phone is outdated but they did make the Duraforce Pro 2, which would probably be a great choice.  You can get one on eBay for around $200 USD." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54673" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="2a9c2bbd-aeb9-4426-a08a-ef72c7afb0e3" CreationDate="2021-05-08T03:26:56.850" UserId="17136" Comment="removed &quot;Bump why is no one answering&quot;" Text="My question is what is the best gaming mouse that can drag click/ butterfly high cps for godbridging available on amazon.in. I am okay with any mouse that can get me high rmb cps under 60$ as of now in 2021. I live in India, so please recommend mice that are available to buy them in India." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54674" PostHistoryTypeId="24" PostId="14843" RevisionGUID="2a9c2bbd-aeb9-4426-a08a-ef72c7afb0e3" CreationDate="2021-05-08T03:26:56.850" Comment="Proposed by 17136 approved by 18536 edit id of 1176" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54675" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8215" RevisionGUID="929c7bd2-80c3-46d1-80a8-64bcc1a131c4" CreationDate="2021-05-08T04:02:35.337" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54676" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14852" RevisionGUID="df3c571a-86f7-483e-87dc-91c58eb78df2" CreationDate="2021-05-08T06:17:29.377" UserId="18560" Text="I've got one from MOFT. It's an adhesive laptop stand, which is extremely portable. But you just can't place your keyboard under the laptop.&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54677" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14853" RevisionGUID="c6e0b451-8ede-4b42-84f0-0114e918c293" CreationDate="2021-05-08T06:38:46.903" UserId="18560" Text="Is there any suggestion for which mechanical switches are suitable for programmers or heavy typists? I want keys that are responsive and 'satisfying' to press, ones that don't lend well to mistakes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54678" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14853" RevisionGUID="c6e0b451-8ede-4b42-84f0-0114e918c293" CreationDate="2021-05-08T06:38:46.903" UserId="18560" Text="What are some suitable switches for programming/typing?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54679" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14853" RevisionGUID="c6e0b451-8ede-4b42-84f0-0114e918c293" CreationDate="2021-05-08T06:38:46.903" UserId="18560" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54680" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14854" RevisionGUID="31f8ca6f-f6e5-4abb-adad-feb3bb6c17df" CreationDate="2021-05-08T06:50:25.603" UserId="18561" Text="I've got the keyboard with brown switches and they are very responsive and nice to do some coding on... If you want more feedback try the heavier browns! The brown switch is intermediate between blue and black switches. If you're going to type but also want to play games on a keyboard, the brown switch is generally heralded as the best choice. They provide tactile feedback, so you can &quot;feel&quot; and confirm each keystroke.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54681" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14855" RevisionGUID="a55eb776-57fd-4424-b4c4-2be79f5d0b30" CreationDate="2021-05-08T13:49:56.370" UserId="18562" Text="I have $25 Logitech desktop speakers which sound fine when playing music or youtube videos. However when sitting idle they make a subtle thudding sound repeating which drives me crazy. I have returned them for the same pair but the new ones have the same exact problem. I have chalked this up to them being cheap speakers. Does anyone have a solution to this issue?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54682" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14855" RevisionGUID="a55eb776-57fd-4424-b4c4-2be79f5d0b30" CreationDate="2021-05-08T13:49:56.370" UserId="18562" Text="Why do my speakers have a repetitive thudding sound when silent?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54683" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14855" RevisionGUID="a55eb776-57fd-4424-b4c4-2be79f5d0b30" CreationDate="2021-05-08T13:49:56.370" UserId="18562" Text="&lt;audio&gt;&lt;speakers&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54684" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="13608" RevisionGUID="e2e60f8f-c6d2-4468-9e61-b797011bb598" CreationDate="2021-05-09T00:35:52.960" UserId="5531" Comment="Link to height adjustability, despite https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories#techspecs_section not mentioning it" Text="I want this monitor for desktop work, and the curvature of my current DELL 34&quot; has been great for productivity, but its low resolution compared to my 4K laptop is a problem.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can live without USB-C, and I don't game, but I've learned that the refresh rate is very relevant - 30Hz is visibly slow, while 50Hz is enough. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;In over 6 months of searching, and haven't found ANY monitor fulfilling these criteria. I haven't found *any* 32&quot; curved 4K *IPS* panels, regardless of any other features.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Below are the closest monitors I've found.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Curved 32&quot; (31.5&quot;) 4K monitors - all have VA panels&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Optix MAG321CURV Gaming Monitor](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1501494-REG/msi_optix_mag321curv_31_5_4k.html) - height adjustable, USB-C but only 15W power; USB hub; no speakers&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell S3221QS](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-32-curved-4k-uhd-monitor-s3221qs/apd/210-axkm/monitors-monitor-accessories) - [height adjustable](https://www.techradar.com/reviews/dell-4k-s3221qs-curved-monitor-review) and has speakers, but no USB-C. Refresh rate not mentioned. Predictably, [very poor viewing angles](https://www.choice.com.au/electronics-and-technology/computers/computer-accessories/articles/dell-s3221qs-review-32-inch-4k-curved-monitor).&#xD;&#xA;* [Philips 328E1CA](https://www.amazon.com/Philips-328E1CA-Adaptive-Sync-Speakers-Replacement/dp/B07VLJPZDR/) - VA panel, no adjustable stand, poor viewing angles&#xD;&#xA;* [Samsung 32-Inch UR590C](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Curved-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA/dp/B07L9G1BFX/) - stand not adjustable, gimmicky curve stops 6&quot; from each edge; no USB-C; no standard VESA mount, although adapters available. There's a [monitor + arm combo](https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U32R590-Monitor-LU32R590CWNXZA-AmazonBasics/dp/B0826XY6J8) that has the same monitor.&#xD;&#xA;* [AOC CU32V3](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TDZJD7/) - no adjustable stand, cheapo, no USB-C&#xD;&#xA;* [VIOTEK NV32Q](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJV2MQV/) ([NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/p/3D4-000W-00076)) - not height-adjustable&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Flat 32&quot; 4K IPS monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* [LG UltraFine 32EP950](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/lg-32EP950-27GP950-ces) - LG's first OLED monitor, announced at CES 2021. Besides OLED: KVM, 2xDisplayPort 1.4, 2xUSB, USB-C with 90W power delivery, [60Hz refresh rate](https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&amp;id=1610378125). [Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/kv2vqv/lg_32ep950_32_oled_monitor_trailer/) is [not that excited](https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/kv3n97/lg_announces_315inch_oled_4k_display_32ep950/) about it. No official product page yet.&#xD;&#xA;* [LG - 32&quot; UltraFine 32UL950](https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD59-B-32-Inch-LED-Lit-FreeSync/dp/B07K8877Y5) - fully adjustable, speakers, USB-C/Thunderbolt with 60W power delivery (insufficient for a ThinkPad X1C). Set the &quot;Black stabilizer&quot; to zero for dark theme programming work. Some users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [Dell U3219Q](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-32-4k-usb-c-monitor-u3219q/apd/210-aqzz/monitors-monitor-accessories) - fully adjustable, 60Hz, USB-C with [90W](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDBD9CM) power delivery, USB hub. [No built-in speakers](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/), but there's a [sound bar](https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-pro-stereo-soundbar-ae515m-skype-for-business-certified/apd/520-aaor/monitors-monitor-accessories) accessory that mounts on the stand, powered via USB from the monitor; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3219Q/dp/B07HDBD9CM/) buyers report backlight bleed.&#xD;&#xA;* [ViewSonic VP3268-4K](https://www.viewsonic.com/us/vp3268-4k.html) - speakers, but no USB-C. I bought it and it turns out the maximum refresh rate is 30Hz and the minimum height is 3.25&quot;, which is too tall. That's the height of fixed stands. Good monitor ergonomics dictate the the top of the monitor be exactly in front of the user's eyes while they look straight ahead. Otherwise, you'll get neck strain when you look above. A stand should go as low as possible, not as high as possible, because you can always put the monitor on books or whatever. ViewSonic's design of the stand for this monitor is just... dumb. Sorry. I ended up placing the top of all my windows a few inches below the top of the screen, but then why am I paying for a 32&quot; when I'm using only 80% of its surface? [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VP3268-4K-Monitor-Calibration-Photography/dp/B0731LYY9P)&#xD;&#xA;* [BenQ EW3280U](https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-EW3280U-Entertainment-connectivity-Speakers/dp/B081V1M5CR/r) - good speakers, USB-C 60W, [not height-adjustable](https://www.benq.com/en-us/monitor/entertainment/ew3280u/specifications.html) (same issue as with the ViewSonic above) but instead it comes with a small remote . Suspend/resume works perfectly with Linux though, and it has a simple but useful volume knob. Sound is great but the lack of height adjustability made me not use the upper 25% of the screen. Wit the speakers below the bezel, the usable screen area starts at 103mm above the desk.&#xD;&#xA;* [HP Z32 31.5-inch 4K UHD](https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-z32-315-inch-4k-uhd-display) - USB-C data + **65W** power delivery; no built-in speakers; [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HP-LED-Backlit-Monitor-1AA81A8-ABA/dp/B07BVBX41J)&#xD;&#xA;* [Asus ProArt PA329C](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5) - USB-C 60W, [frequent dead pixels](https://www.amazon.com/ProArt-PA329C-Displayhdr600-Monitor-DisplayPort/dp/B081G1RZZ5). The [2016 version](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD9ZZM/) (PA328Q, no USB-C) was also plagued by dead pixels. Both are height-adjustable and have speakers in the specs - [PA329C](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329C/specifications/), [PA328Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA328Q/specifications/), and the newer [PA329Q](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-PA329Q/specifications/) (still no USB-C). Unclear refresh rate. Among 4K ASUS monitors, the refresh rate seems to be only clearly specified for the upcoming [ProArt Display PA32UCG](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ProArt-Display-PA32UCG/) - &quot;48~120 Hz Variable-refresh-rate (VRR) for game developer&quot; and the [ASUS CG32UQ HDR Console Gaming Monitor](https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/CG32UQ/) (40-60Hz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(plus a bunch of VA panel 32&quot; 4K monitors: [AOC U3277PWQU](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8ZIWM3) [LG 32UD59](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-black/6051028.p?skuId=6051028), [Samsung S32R750U](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-31-5-lcd-4k-uhd-space-monitor-black/6321305.p?skuId=6321305), [Samsung U32J590](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-uj59-series-u32j590uqn-32-led-4k-uhd-freesync-monitor-dark-gray-blue/6293716.p?skuId=6293716))&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# 5K monitors&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's the 34&quot; 5120x2160 5K2K @ 60Hz [LG monitor](https://www.amazon.com/LG-34BK95U-W-UltraFine-UltraWide-Thunderbolt/dp/B07JP1QK9T/), but it's not curved (annoying for a 34&quot; ultrawide) and users have reported image burn-in.&#xD;&#xA;* [MSI Prestige PS341WU 34&quot; 5120 x 2160](https://us.msi.com/Monitor/Prestige-PS341WU.html) - 60Hz, USB-C (5V/3A power, but no data [&quot;transmition&quot;](https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/monitor/PS341v1.0_English.pdf)); adjustable; no speakers. I had to return it due to image burn-in and not resuming from standby properly (had to power cycle). [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-Narrow-Bezel-Ultra/dp/B07YYRX8HX/), [Newegg](https://www.newegg.com/msi-prestige-ps341wu-34/p/N82E16824475039)&#xD;&#xA;* At CES 2021, DELL announced a [40&quot; curved 5K2K screen](https://www.theverge.com/2021/1/11/22224847/dell-ultrasharp-40-curved-wuhd-u4021qw-monitor-5k2k-release-date-price-features-ports).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Neither DELL nor HP make this 32&quot; 4K curved combo. Dell makes an otherwise great 34&quot; curved (the [U3419W](https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-usb-c-monitor-u3419w/apd/210-arcl/monitors-monitor-accessories) with USB-C and speakers), but it's not 4K, and the pixelage is pretty bad once you get used to 4K. The [38&quot; DELL](https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor-U3818DW/dp/B073FHWTPL/) isn't much better, at only 1600 vertical pixels." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54685" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14856" RevisionGUID="2a67608f-0b9d-403f-bb02-72083e966da2" CreationDate="2021-05-09T17:06:11.020" UserId="18568" Text="Am I missing something, or does there not appear to be any 2160p ultra wide monitors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LG did the 34WK95U, but that appears to have been discontinued   https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34WK95U-W-ultrawide-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54686" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14856" RevisionGUID="2a67608f-0b9d-403f-bb02-72083e966da2" CreationDate="2021-05-09T17:06:11.020" UserId="18568" Text="2160p ultra wide monitors" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54687" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14856" RevisionGUID="2a67608f-0b9d-403f-bb02-72083e966da2" CreationDate="2021-05-09T17:06:11.020" UserId="18568" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54688" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14857" RevisionGUID="36ea995b-09bc-4a28-a584-51f9a8da0169" CreationDate="2021-05-09T17:12:24.747" UserId="18512" Text="It seems that banana pi w2 is almost perfect for my purposes." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54689" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12946" RevisionGUID="314716e1-9cdc-4d19-ba68-b1eb246fbdef" CreationDate="2021-05-09T18:05:50.527" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54690" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14858" RevisionGUID="ba2fbfe1-b487-45cf-bb2e-635060046b08" CreationDate="2021-05-09T21:22:40.803" UserId="17297" Text="I normally print the website or pdf file with color to study. However, it is quite expensive to do so frequently. So, I think of a gadget that I can use the s-pen or pen(compatible with the gadget) to write on it. I am looking for a gadget with a pen that I can write on the web browser or a pdf file.&#xD;&#xA;I prefer some Android tablets. I do not really care about the sound quality. Just focus on the ability to take notes on the website and pdf files.&#xD;&#xA;Can you please give me some suggestions?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54691" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14858" RevisionGUID="ba2fbfe1-b487-45cf-bb2e-635060046b08" CreationDate="2021-05-09T21:22:40.803" UserId="17297" Text="Tablet recommendation for taking note on pdf and website?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54692" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14858" RevisionGUID="ba2fbfe1-b487-45cf-bb2e-635060046b08" CreationDate="2021-05-09T21:22:40.803" UserId="17297" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54695" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14856" RevisionGUID="7e477565-bde8-4441-9381-19573bacfa88" CreationDate="2021-05-10T06:11:47.463" UserId="6047" Comment="Embedded link." Text="Am I missing something, or does there not appear to be any 2160p ultra wide monitors?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;LG did the [34WK95U][1], but that appears to have been discontinued.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34WK95U-W-ultrawide-monitor" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54696" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14859" RevisionGUID="05620569-0dff-4fe0-a886-af9d87b35e85" CreationDate="2021-05-10T11:24:57.983" UserId="2603" Text="I currently have Dell 7570 15&quot; laptop. Upgraded with 16 GB RAM, 4 GB 940MX graphics card and i7 8th gen processor.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But still my laptop struggles in playing games at even medium settings and a very low resolution like 1024x768. Looks like this 4GB graphics card doesn't make sense.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm not a *gamer* but I like to play games released before 2015, especially like some of COD older games, GTA5 and CSGO. But when I play them at lower settings, I kind of miss the higher settings. I can even afford to play at 1366x768 instead of 1080p, but what I need is high quality textures, high quality grass, lights and shadows so things look more real.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I can somehow achieve this by turning off almost all high settings at playing a very low resolution, but I don't have fun then.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Now, as you know desktops and laptops and PC parts have become very expensive. I want to buy a desktop but prices are not in my budget. I had planned to buy a desktop with i5 10th gen processor and at least NVIDIA GTX 1650 or 1660 graphics (for example [this desktop][1]). I don't have any reasons, but many people recommend at least these. But it goes 30% above my budget. And looks like these PC parts aren't going to be cheap any time soon, until 2022. My laptop really doesn't have any problem except this poor graphics card.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So my question is, is there even low hardware recommendations (Processor and Graphics card) where I can play these games with almost high settings (not ultra) and 1366x768 or 1280x720 resolution, efficiently?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-IdeaCentre-Desktop-Graphics-90N9003MIN/dp/B08DNM5HLK/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B08DNM5HLK&amp;pd_rd_r=c832e630-da8c-4fb5-88c3-08df9cd27bce&amp;pd_rd_w=qJqAX&amp;pd_rd_wg=av47H&amp;pf_rd_p=9411a0cd-9506-4b5c-bbab-9f7b0e6a4733&amp;pf_rd_r=B2ZK2KAEGZR942KXPX72&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=G38VWG00H72TPV487VT3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54697" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14859" RevisionGUID="05620569-0dff-4fe0-a886-af9d87b35e85" CreationDate="2021-05-10T11:24:57.983" UserId="2603" Text="Not so expensive desktop parts (processor and gpu) recommendation" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54698" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14859" RevisionGUID="05620569-0dff-4fe0-a886-af9d87b35e85" CreationDate="2021-05-10T11:24:57.983" UserId="2603" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;desktop&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54699" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14860" RevisionGUID="280c33fb-7229-4b48-8998-acb2ba51d2a6" CreationDate="2021-05-10T15:03:05.777" UserId="18583" Text="I'm facing a problem with this motherboard trying to make it work with 6 pcie GPU's for eth mining.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Rog Strix b450-f AMD Ryzen Pro 3 3200GE Pro (w/ radeon vega 8)&#xD;&#xA;- 4gb ram &#xD;&#xA;- 6 x Asrock Challenger Pro AMD Radeon 5700 XT 8gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently using RaveOS (raveos.com) as OS to mine with ethminer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was able to make it work with 5 GPU, using slots PCIEx16_1 and PCIex16_3 and PciEx1_1, PciEx1_2 and PciEx1_3, the problem comes with slot PCIex16_2, I found no way to make it work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tried several bios setup combinations with no luck. OS is not able to found any GPU on slot pciex16_2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 1: I'm using risers on 6 GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: Tested every GPU + riser alone and they are working, so I guess all parts are working correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody has any experience with this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54700" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14860" RevisionGUID="280c33fb-7229-4b48-8998-acb2ba51d2a6" CreationDate="2021-05-10T15:03:05.777" UserId="18583" Text="Asus Rog Strix b450-f and 6 pciE GPU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54701" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14860" RevisionGUID="280c33fb-7229-4b48-8998-acb2ba51d2a6" CreationDate="2021-05-10T15:03:05.777" UserId="18583" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54703" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14861" RevisionGUID="d5d4104c-1c05-41b1-b958-bb9a13865e78" CreationDate="2021-05-11T10:21:40.787" UserId="18586" Text="My laptop is a HP 14-ck0521sa. The supplied RAM is 1 x 4GB DDR4-2400 SODIMM and there's 1 additional slot.&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to install 2 x 16GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm wondering if the manufacture quotes a lower figure in the hope that users would be encouraged to buy higher spec'd (read priced) laptops. Or is there a genuine physical limitation, such as power consumption, dimensions, or heat dispersal." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54704" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14861" RevisionGUID="d5d4104c-1c05-41b1-b958-bb9a13865e78" CreationDate="2021-05-11T10:21:40.787" UserId="18586" Text="I want to upgrade my laptop's RAM. Windows reports MaxCapacity as 32GB but the manual say 16GB. Which is it and why?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54705" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14861" RevisionGUID="d5d4104c-1c05-41b1-b958-bb9a13865e78" CreationDate="2021-05-11T10:21:40.787" UserId="18586" Text="&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54706" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12673" RevisionGUID="d3068a22-a575-4d48-a76d-140960f24220" CreationDate="2021-05-11T11:02:50.243" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54707" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14862" RevisionGUID="78cfa141-6898-4ef7-a5bf-184e80e54a60" CreationDate="2021-05-11T11:40:30.487" UserId="17263" Text="Your cpu only has a limited number of pci-e lanes available. Sadly I can't find the official documentation but from different forums and other people with these issues it appears that the 3xxx series apu does not support a second PCIex16 slot." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54708" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14863" RevisionGUID="0a63f8c7-73d9-463d-9565-04e77e0e04da" CreationDate="2021-05-11T11:47:00.367" UserId="17263" Text="From a quick search I've also found the &#xD;&#xA;	&#xD;&#xA;Dell UltraSharp U4021QW and the MSI Prestige PS341WU" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54709" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14860" RevisionGUID="43668e90-ab9c-4d71-96f3-49bd3a0f9bdd" CreationDate="2021-05-11T13:14:10.577" UserId="18583" Comment="added manual info" Text="I'm facing a problem with this motherboard trying to make it work with 6 pcie GPU's for eth mining.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Current setup:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Asus Rog Strix b450-f AMD Ryzen Pro 3 3200GE Pro (w/ radeon vega 8)&#xD;&#xA;- 4gb ram &#xD;&#xA;- 6 x Asrock Challenger Pro AMD Radeon 5700 XT 8gb&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'm currently using RaveOS (raveos.com) as OS to mine with ethminer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I was able to make it work with 5 GPU, using slots PCIEx16_1 and PCIex16_3 and PciEx1_1, PciEx1_2 and PciEx1_3, the problem comes with slot PCIex16_2, I found no way to make it work.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Tried several bios setup combinations with no luck. OS is not able to found any GPU on slot pciex16_2.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 1: I'm using risers on 6 GPU.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note 2: Tested every GPU + riser alone and they are working, so I guess all parts are working correctly.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does anybody has any experience with this?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Following Bob answer, I found this on the motherboard manual:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Asus Rog Strix b450-f Manual (Snapshot)][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/7IhrA.png&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So, Ryzen 3200 + Vega does not appear to support PCIex16_2 lane...&#xD;&#xA;I have to confirm this and mark appropiate answer." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54710" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14864" RevisionGUID="cc67127d-677b-457d-b931-9d9b9472d6be" CreationDate="2021-05-11T15:49:24.863" UserId="17263" Text="Since good mechanical keyboards are relatively expensive and key preference is just a personal choice my suggestion is to purchase a mechanical key tester. This is a small keypad with several different kinds of switches in there. a cherry mx version with nine of their key types can already be found for around ten dollars.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Other brands also tend to have these kind of key switch testers, but in my experience the most basic feel tends to be similar, just the quality and some details in the feel are slightly different though close enough to make an educated guess based on their cherry counterpart." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54711" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14865" RevisionGUID="1c5600b0-7592-4f67-9692-4487baf0b12d" CreationDate="2021-05-11T15:54:42.420" UserId="17263" Text="It's difficult to say on basic specifications alone. the idea Irsu85 brought up is a good one, but for all we know the thinner one might use fancy cooling mechanisms like vapor chambers, has more/larger heat pipes or has an aluminum unibody that assists in dissipating more heat.&#xD;&#xA;If you have the make and model. Try looking for video reviews. Often times they mention noise levels and they usually add the actual audio. Even if one might be slightly louder than the other if one is whiney and the other a hum. The whining one might get on your nerves earlier." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54712" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14866" RevisionGUID="8265e8e4-0857-45df-be7d-a8df459135fe" CreationDate="2021-05-11T21:13:40.440" UserId="7729" Text="I'm interested in small-ish laptops (12&quot; or a little larger), which have a decent traditional keyboard - the kind with long key travel, which laptops used to have before the thinness fad took hold in recent years. The one I have current is a Lenovo Thinkpad X201. I know that the decent keyboards continued for that series until the x220 (or arguably the x230) - but this is already 9 years ago.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Have there been laptops in this size category released more recently? I don't necessarily prefer absolutely brand-new models, just to get an understand if there are relevant series/models I could consider. Naturally, I would be in the market for used items." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54713" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14866" RevisionGUID="8265e8e4-0857-45df-be7d-a8df459135fe" CreationDate="2021-05-11T21:13:40.440" UserId="7729" Text="12&quot; laptops from recent years with traditional/long-travel keyboard?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54714" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14866" RevisionGUID="8265e8e4-0857-45df-be7d-a8df459135fe" CreationDate="2021-05-11T21:13:40.440" UserId="7729" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54715" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12683" RevisionGUID="6284d91f-1aa2-409b-b4fd-66c078a69ee7" CreationDate="2021-05-11T22:07:30.753" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54716" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14867" RevisionGUID="ed5e3e16-b3b2-4538-89a9-9f103041559e" CreationDate="2021-05-11T22:33:19.033" UserId="18592" Text="I have a Senheiser HD 559 which comes with a cable that has an 6.3 mm jack connection. Now I wanna connect this heaphone to a normal PC with a 3.5 mm female jacket. Unfortunately every (and with every I mean high quality brands product and cheap brand product) sell 6.3mm Female Plug to 3.5 mm Male Jack Stereo Adaptor, which always have a loose contact. So I wanna buy a cable that connects my heaphone and has a direct 3.5 mm male jacket which can be connected to any device directly. &#xD;&#xA;[![In the image you can see the cable that comes with the headset. I don't know how much mm the jacket has that goes into the headphones so I don't know what to search for.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNv16.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54717" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14867" RevisionGUID="ed5e3e16-b3b2-4538-89a9-9f103041559e" CreationDate="2021-05-11T22:33:19.033" UserId="18592" Text="Searching for cable which links Senheiser headphone directly to computer over 3.5 mm jacket" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54718" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14867" RevisionGUID="ed5e3e16-b3b2-4538-89a9-9f103041559e" CreationDate="2021-05-11T22:33:19.033" UserId="18592" Text="&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54719" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14868" RevisionGUID="ae0edda0-b918-4159-b6e5-335e834f7481" CreationDate="2021-05-11T23:01:02.750" UserId="6089" Text="It's likely that your laptop's memory limit is 16 GB. [HP's website for that specific model][1] lists under the specifications tab memory configurations up to 16 GB.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Additionally, entering the model information to [Crucial.com's memory selector page][2] provides the same limitations.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-laptop-14z-fq000-9vn16av-1?jumpid=cs_con_nc_ns&amp;utm_medium=cs&amp;utm_source=ga&amp;utm_campaign=HP-Store_US_BRA_PS_CPS_Hgm_AMD_Google_DO_PLA&amp;utm_content=sp&amp;adid=504252209944&amp;addisttype=gpla&amp;9VN16AV_1&amp;cq_src=google_ads&amp;cq_cmp=12495445162&amp;cq_con=114111274970&amp;cq_term=&amp;cq_med=pla&amp;cq_plac=&amp;cq_net=g&amp;cq_pos=&amp;cq_plt=gp&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw1uiEBhBzEiwAO9B_HSzUHA094LPRQvj5gc0kAdLkONcMWIesU9l7URGGLB-JiWvVOwWUXxoCAesQAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/hp---compaq/hp-14-ck0521sa" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54720" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14869" RevisionGUID="296af35b-894a-4198-a836-6cdaa8e24cd4" CreationDate="2021-05-12T07:08:08.540" UserId="18343" Text="I have this old-ass portable DVD player that I got for xmas a long time ago. There was this emoji sticker that I put on there a while back, and when I peeled it off, I found out that the plastic under the sticker was brighter than the plastic around the sticker. Why does this happen, and how can I fix it?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![As you can see, the plastic is discoloured.][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks m8s,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Depths&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/q39pg.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54721" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14869" RevisionGUID="296af35b-894a-4198-a836-6cdaa8e24cd4" CreationDate="2021-05-12T07:08:08.540" UserId="18343" Text="DVD player darkened, what to do?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54722" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14869" RevisionGUID="296af35b-894a-4198-a836-6cdaa8e24cd4" CreationDate="2021-05-12T07:08:08.540" UserId="18343" Text="&lt;dvd-player&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54723" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14870" RevisionGUID="c5a0fdb0-d349-4f21-94bd-3f46366db54c" CreationDate="2021-05-12T08:42:42.827" UserId="18594" Text="Hi all I have the following question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want a tablet for presentations on external monitors.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Does the tablet need USBc 2 or higher USBc 3.x to make an adapter cable work from the tablets USBc to an external monitor HDMI?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54724" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14870" RevisionGUID="c5a0fdb0-d349-4f21-94bd-3f46366db54c" CreationDate="2021-05-12T08:42:42.827" UserId="18594" Text="USBc 2.0 vs USBc 3.x alternate mode" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54725" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14870" RevisionGUID="c5a0fdb0-d349-4f21-94bd-3f46366db54c" CreationDate="2021-05-12T08:42:42.827" UserId="18594" Text="&lt;tablet&gt;&lt;hdmi&gt;&lt;displays&gt;&lt;display-port&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54726" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="f4882234-6db8-4946-a4cc-6baa865b5aa7" CreationDate="2021-05-12T11:19:47.383" UserId="11232" Text="# Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Split: 2 separate halves, the connecting wire must be long enough to have the 2 halves on either side when I'm sitting and typing on the floor.&#xD;&#xA;- Small size: I'm currently comfortable with a 1-piece of around 280x150 mm laptop keyboard&#xD;&#xA;- Shallow &amp; quiet keystrokes: I prefer minimal noise and the shallow keystroke depth of laptop keyboards. I mostly use small and quick movements, mostly moving just my fingers with minimal wrist movement. I don't wanna type deeper than 2mm.&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight: just single colored LEDs backlight (red or white)&#xD;&#xA;- Swappable keys: I use nvim and things with vim functions so I currently have CAPS &amp; ESC swapped in my `.xinitrc` but even that doesn't always work so I wanna be able to swap them at the hardware level&#xD;&#xA;- Wired: don't wanna go wireless for this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;50-100 USD is an easy yes, can save for up to around 500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I'm currently in South East Asia so it must be deliverable there)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54727" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="f4882234-6db8-4946-a4cc-6baa865b5aa7" CreationDate="2021-05-12T11:19:47.383" UserId="11232" Text="Split keyboard, laptop keyboard sized, shallow &amp; quiet keys, swappable keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54728" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="f4882234-6db8-4946-a4cc-6baa865b5aa7" CreationDate="2021-05-12T11:19:47.383" UserId="11232" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54729" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14872" RevisionGUID="f3a85383-5856-4c7e-8481-40d4d0f19c1d" CreationDate="2021-05-12T11:29:59.407" UserId="18547" Text="As a programming student, I really like the Sharkoon skiller SKG5. The keystrokes are reported fast (for the gamers, but also for other people), it gives good feedback when a key is pressed, it has rgb (not really useful, but doesnt matter) and the marco keys are really useful for something like console.log(). Its also really cheap, for if you are on a tight buget (I bought mine for 40 euros).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I like the heavy feel of the switches, but I've heard that mechanical keyboards are lighter, if you are searching for that." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54730" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14873" RevisionGUID="f7d3a807-3a6d-4137-b1cf-e5c27a4ad2f8" CreationDate="2021-05-12T11:35:37.200" UserId="18547" Text="AFAIK, USB type C needs to be used in displayport or thunderbolt mode to sopport external displays (HDMI, VGA, DP, doesnt matter). USB 3.x wont be able to run a display except if it also supports displayport. What I do know for sure is that iPads support AirPlay, where you can wirelessly stream a video signal. I think there are also dongles that convert AirPlay to HDMI on the tv side." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54731" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="9867" RevisionGUID="58d6ed05-4503-43ca-9f13-818f18d09553" CreationDate="2021-05-12T12:00:35.300" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54732" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="79296459-05f1-431c-b390-163caa3900cd" CreationDate="2021-05-12T13:55:05.107" UserId="11232" Comment="added 17 characters in body" Text="# Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Split: 2 separate halves, the connecting wire must be long enough to have the 2 halves on either side when I'm sitting and typing on the floor.&#xD;&#xA;- Small size: I'm currently comfortable with a laptop keyboard with each key being 15x15 mm&#xD;&#xA;- Shallow &amp; quiet keystrokes: I prefer minimal noise and the shallow keystroke depth of laptop keyboards. I mostly use small and quick movements, mostly moving just my fingers with minimal wrist movement. The switches should only move by about 1 mm or less.&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight: just single colored LEDs backlight (red or white)&#xD;&#xA;- Swappable keys: I use nvim and things with vim functions so I currently have CAPS &amp; ESC swapped in my `.xinitrc` but even that doesn't always work so I wanna be able to swap them at the hardware level&#xD;&#xA;- Wired: don't wanna go wireless for this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;50-100 USD is an easy yes, can save for up to around 500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I'm currently in South East Asia so it must be deliverable there)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54733" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14874" RevisionGUID="38b30c79-f811-46ef-9cd9-05e0f259bc29" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:38:02.947" UserId="18598" Text="I'm looking for a recommendation on adding storage to the laptop if I don't want to swap the current m2 drive on my laptop.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a brand new [HP 17-cn0021nr laptop][1], and I want to upgrade the storage capacity.  It has an installed m2 SSD, and I could either replace that or add another.  When looking over the motherboard(image 1), I noticed there is a connector labeled &quot;HDD&quot;, near a spot that looks like its intended for a 2.5&quot; drive.  I don't recognize this connector.   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The motherboard has a label of &quot;17N-8L-TGL,&quot; but I can't find specifications online for the unused port.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![Motherboard][2]][2]  [![Close-Up of connector][3]][3][![Alternate angle of Port][4]][4]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://support.hp.com/ee-en/document/c07117943&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/zS5N7.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3ozI.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [4]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl1Gi.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54734" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14874" RevisionGUID="38b30c79-f811-46ef-9cd9-05e0f259bc29" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:38:02.947" UserId="18598" Text="Pick the right HDD for an unknown connector on HP 17-cn0021nr laptop motherboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54735" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14874" RevisionGUID="38b30c79-f811-46ef-9cd9-05e0f259bc29" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:38:02.947" UserId="18598" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;hard-disk&gt;&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54736" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="1cfb628c-e19c-46e8-9b1c-1725d98bba2a" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:45:12.543" UserId="11232" Comment="changed &quot;laptop-like&quot; to just having short travel-distance switches" Text="# Requirements&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Split: 2 separate halves, the connecting wire must be long enough to have the 2 halves on either side when I'm sitting and typing on the floor.&#xD;&#xA;- Shallow &amp; quiet keystrokes: I prefer minimal noise and the short travel distance of laptop keyboard switches. I mostly use small and quick movements, mostly moving just my fingers with minimal wrist movement.&#xD;&#xA;- Backlight: just single colored LEDs backlight (red or white)&#xD;&#xA;- Swappable keys: I use vim and things with vim functions so I currently have CAPS &amp; ESC swapped in my `.xinitrc` but even that doesn't always work so I wanna be able to swap them at the hardware level&#xD;&#xA;- Wired: don't wanna go wireless for this&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;# Budget&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;50-100 USD is an easy yes, can save for up to around 500 USD.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;(I'm currently in South East Asia so it must be deliverable there)" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54737" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14871" RevisionGUID="1cfb628c-e19c-46e8-9b1c-1725d98bba2a" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:45:12.543" UserId="11232" Comment="changed &quot;laptop-like&quot; to just having short travel-distance switches" Text="Split keyboard, switches with small travel distance, swappable keys" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54738" PostHistoryTypeId="34" PostId="14826" RevisionGUID="f00dfe3d-8ebb-42c4-919b-9599898c2113" CreationDate="2021-05-13T09:04:15.380" UserId="-1" Comment="105" />
  <row Id="54739" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="14875" RevisionGUID="443e09f7-64a6-4e7b-ba3e-945065205a1a" CreationDate="2021-05-14T09:03:52.143" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://superuser.com/questions/1648912/presenting-while-standing-alternative-to-usb-foot-pedals" />
  <row Id="54740" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14875" RevisionGUID="a7efcf08-ed0a-4308-9801-44bd0487d43d" CreationDate="2021-05-13T18:48:55.697" UserDisplayName="Bobby" Text="I give presentations while standing and need to switch PowerPoint slides. Only controlling the forward button would be fine. My challenge is that foot pedals are not optimal for standing because they require you balance on one leg while pressing. For a long presentation where I need to press sometimes as frequently as every sentence (to trigger animations) this gets pretty tiring.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would like to have a way to remain more firmly planted and evenly balanced on both feet. I imagine making a small gesture like lifting the toes or heel of one foot would be more comfortable than pressing a pedal. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How can this be achieved reliably for both Windows and MacOS? I know there are LiDAR devices that sense gestures, but I think I need a physical button of some kind to make sure every gesture is perfectly registered. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively is there a device I could hold in my hand that’s so small that it’s invisible for my viewers who watch me via a webcam even when my hands are in the frame. Tapping two fingers together to trigger the gesture?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main reason why I want the device to be invisible or out of the frame is to avoid distracting my viewers. My background (a plain wall) helps with this. I'm also very minimalist with my slides and avoid having anything that's not directly related to my message. With that in mind, I want all of my visible gestures to convey meaning rather than being used to switch slides.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Automated transitions will not work here because the audience may interrupt to ask questions and I may need to adapt the presentation as I go." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54741" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14875" RevisionGUID="a7efcf08-ed0a-4308-9801-44bd0487d43d" CreationDate="2021-05-13T18:48:55.697" UserDisplayName="Bobby" Text="Presenting while standing: alternative to USB foot pedals?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54742" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14875" RevisionGUID="a7efcf08-ed0a-4308-9801-44bd0487d43d" CreationDate="2021-05-13T18:48:55.697" UserDisplayName="Bobby" Text="&lt;untagged&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54743" PostHistoryTypeId="36" PostId="14876" RevisionGUID="22fb4c0d-40fe-4153-8780-5171553a7284" CreationDate="2021-05-14T09:03:52.143" UserId="-1" Comment="from https://superuser.com/questions/1648912/presenting-while-standing-alternative-to-usb-foot-pedals/1648916#1648916" />
  <row Id="54744" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14876" RevisionGUID="08b43fb6-9499-4d02-a4bc-961e3941cb8c" CreationDate="2021-05-13T19:08:41.050" UserDisplayName="WG481" Text="There's a small ring advancer for PowerPoint available from Amazon [here](https://www.amazon.com/BEBONCOOL-Presenter-Presentation-Slideshow-PowerPoint/dp/B07QTX1YKT/ref=pd_lpo_23_t_0/140-2033064-7992230?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07QTX1YKT&amp;pd_rd_r=43bb7c7d-3597-457b-b629-853a2fb122ff&amp;pd_rd_w=JAUGX&amp;pd_rd_wg=QFQWs&amp;pf_rd_p=a0d6e967-6561-454c-84f8-2ce2c92b79a6&amp;pf_rd_r=NPQ5QP0P3K75ET171NRZ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NPQ5QP0P3K75ET171NRZ) which fits your requirements of being easily concealed. It's a Plug and Play, which should work with both systems.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;EDIT: Another thing you could do is time your presentation, then use the `Transitions` effect panel to have it fade into the next slide on that interval. It may not be as convenient as a clicker, pedal, or gesture, but it will go to the next slide easily." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54745" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14877" RevisionGUID="5299250b-4d2b-4de9-b810-83a1d68ec852" CreationDate="2021-05-14T11:56:36.947" UserId="18602" Text="Hello Fellow PC Builders,&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have meticulously sifted through each and every component on PC Specialist in the Liquid Cooled PC builder in an attempt to build my dream PC. I do have some questions which would definitely put my mind at ease when it comes to hitting order if anyone can help, it would be appreciated.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Things to note:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- My budget is £4,000 with a little bit of wiggle room.&#xD;&#xA;- I want to synchronise as much of the RGB controls as possible so I don't have to have multiple controllers or applications handling them.&#xD;&#xA;- I plan on streaming my gameplay of Fortnite and Rocket League using my Elgato 60S+ USB Capture Card combined with OBS. I will also think about video editing, playing VR games, 4K games and be ready for 8K games, I may also mine for crypto in the PC's downtime.&#xD;&#xA;- The case selected in my opinion is super beautiful, absolutely love it. I really want to build my PC around it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Here is the build:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Case**&#xD;&#xA;CoolerMaster MasterCase H500M Gaming Case (LS)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Custom Liquid Cooling Kit**&#xD;&#xA;Liquid Series RGB Mid Kit - Corsair Hydro X&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Tubing**&#xD;&#xA;Clear Hardline PETG Tubing (Bent/Metallic Fittings)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics Card Cooling**&#xD;&#xA;GPU Water Block - For One Graphics Card!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Coolant Colour**&#xD;&#xA;EK-CryoFuel Purple&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**LED Lighting**&#xD;&#xA;2x 50cm RGB LED Strip&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Overclocked CPU**&#xD;&#xA;Overclocked AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 16 Core (3.4GHz @ up to 4.65GHz)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Motherboard**&#xD;&#xA;ASUS® CROSSHAIR VIII HERO WIFI (DDR4, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX/SLI) - RGB Ready!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Memory (RAM)**&#xD;&#xA;32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3600MHz (2 x 16GB)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Graphics Card**&#xD;&#xA;10GB ASUS ROG STRIX GEFORCE RTX 3080 - HDMI, DP (Pre-Order Only)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1st Storage Drive**&#xD;&#xA;1TB Samsung 870 QVO 2.5&quot; SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (up to 560MB/sR | 530MB/sW)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**2nd Storage Drive**&#xD;&#xA;1TB Samsung 870 QVO 2.5&quot; SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (up to 560MB/sR | 530MB/sW)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**1st M.2 SSD Drive**&#xD;&#xA;500GB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 6900MB/R, 5000MB/W)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**RAID**&#xD;&#xA;RAID 0 (STRIPED VOLUME - 2 x same size &amp; model HDD / SSD)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power Supply**&#xD;&#xA;CORSAIR 850W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Power Cable**&#xD;&#xA;1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Braided Power Supply Cables**&#xD;&#xA;CORSAIR Premium Individually Sleeved PSU Cable Kit Pro - Black&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Sound Card**&#xD;&#xA;Asus Xonar AE 7.1-Channel Gaming Audio Card&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**USB/Thunderbolt Options**&#xD;&#xA;MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 &amp; 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Operating System**&#xD;&#xA;Windows 10 Professional 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Price**: £4,075.00 including VAT and Delivery&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Questions I have regarding the build** (I have numbered them so you can reply directly without having to quote them in your responses):&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1) Topic: Restricted water cooling options due to the size of the CoolerMaster MasterCase H500M Gaming Case (LS) case selected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The water cooling options are restricted to:&#xD;&#xA;- Liquid Series RGB Mid Kit - Corsair Hydro X&#xD;&#xA;- Liquid Series RGB Mid Kit - EK&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: Which of these performs better, I think the only difference I have been able to find is the sizing of the tubes. Is this a cosmetic difference or will this effect the cooling performance, amount of energy required to pump the fluid through them.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;2) Topic: Restricted water cooling options ability to cool such a powerful computer.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: As the parts I will be using are very high spec, will the Liquid Series RGB Mid Kit's be up to the task?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;3) Topic: RGB Strip lighting within the CoolerMaster MasterCase H500M Gaming Case.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: I have selected two RGB lighting strips, assuming there is only dedicated space for two strips, is my assumption correct?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;4) Topic: The CoolerMaster MasterCase H500M Gaming Case can support up to 3 additional fan(s). I have added the Liquid Series RGB Mid Kit - Corsair Hydro X that comes with a 360mm radiator and quoting from the more info specs 'Up to 4x Corsair RGB Fans'.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a) Will the radiator be situated at the top of the case with the fans attached; occupying the 3 additional fan slots?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Also, the 4th Corsair RGB Fan that comes in the cooling kit, can I request it to replace the plain black fan located at the rear of the PC Case?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5) Topic: Selecting the right RAM for the ASUS® CROSSHAIR VIII HERO WIFI (DDR4, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX/SLI) Motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Not knowing if the ASUS® CROSSHAIR VIII HERO WIFI (DDR4, PCIe 4.0, CrossFireX/SLI) Motherboard's RAM slots are bi-channel or quad-channel.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;a) Am I best getting 4 x 8gb or 2 x 16gb sticks of RAM?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;b) Should I swap the 32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3600MHz (2 x 16GB) RAM for the lower MHz 32GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 3200MHz (4 x 8GB) RAM to occupy all four channels?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6) Topic: Braided Power Supply Cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to have purple braided cables.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: Are braided cables safer, offer a better quality power transfer, noticeable when they are simply black braided cables, come with some kind of warranty or protection standard cables would not offer? Or, are they just cosmetic!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7) Topic: Choosing the right sound card for my intended use.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I plan to stream my gameplay, listen to music on (currently 5.1 but will potentially go to 7.1) surround sound speakers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Question: Has the selected Asus Xonar AE 7.1-Channel Gaming Audio Card got me covered, is it a waste of money, or should I be getting a better sound card?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8) Topic: HD / SSD / m.2 Partitions&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to make the best use of my m.2 drive. The things I will be using the most on the computer are:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;- Booting the PC.&#xD;&#xA;- Google Chrome.&#xD;&#xA;- OBS.&#xD;&#xA;- Fortnite.&#xD;&#xA;- Rocket League.&#xD;&#xA;- Spotify.&#xD;&#xA;- Adobe Photoshop &amp; Illustrator.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What should I specify the partitions to be to make these all have priority and ability to sit on the m.2 for quickest reads and writes?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would really appreciate if you could respond using a numbered system as I am not a wizard when it comes to the naming structure of all of the PC components, so if you could copy and paste this template and respond to each question accordingly it would help me massively:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My experience with these components: Owned / Tested &amp; Reviewed / Watched Reviews / Looked at the Specs / I just know better than you - deal with it!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q1) Answer&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q2) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q3) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q4 - a) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q4 - b) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q5 - a) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q5 - b) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q6) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q7) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Q8) ...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;-----&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Appreciate this is a very long post, thank you all for taking the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks, Doops." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54746" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14877" RevisionGUID="5299250b-4d2b-4de9-b810-83a1d68ec852" CreationDate="2021-05-14T11:56:36.947" UserId="18602" Text="Questions I have about my custom high-end water cooled PC before I buy" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54747" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14877" RevisionGUID="5299250b-4d2b-4de9-b810-83a1d68ec852" CreationDate="2021-05-14T11:56:36.947" UserId="18602" Text="&lt;graphics-cards&gt;&lt;processor&gt;&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;pc&gt;&lt;high-end&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54748" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14878" RevisionGUID="55e44299-41bc-4510-8f67-416fbe45268a" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:00:43.950" UserId="16653" Text="I'm trying to build a breadboard computer with a 6502 processor ([eater.net](https://eater.net/6502)). I quickly realized that to program the EEPROM chip (28C256-15) you have to buy a device that costs $50, and I don't want to pay that much. Does anyone have other suggestions? Thanks!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54749" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14878" RevisionGUID="55e44299-41bc-4510-8f67-416fbe45268a" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:00:43.950" UserId="16653" Text="28C256-15 EEPROM programmer?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54750" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14878" RevisionGUID="55e44299-41bc-4510-8f67-416fbe45268a" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:00:43.950" UserId="16653" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;linux&gt;&lt;data-storage&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54751" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5428" RevisionGUID="79352f6d-e80c-4145-97c0-b3c723258b10" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:01:10.113" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54752" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14875" RevisionGUID="8f0f7c2a-fbe8-4f08-a9ae-b700beff5015" CreationDate="2021-05-15T10:12:24.433" UserId="18609" Comment="added tags" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;remote-control&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54753" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14879" RevisionGUID="b5107f5f-bf32-43ee-95f9-bafca51f4a80" CreationDate="2021-05-15T22:49:33.523" UserId="18614" Text="I have a small mini-PC, running Linux, which I use as a wireless access point and router.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It came with a [Realtek RTL8191SEvA](https://wiki.debian.org/rtl819x) mini-PCIe wireless card. It works very well under Linux, supporting AP/master mode and running `hostapd` quite stably and with adequate performance.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;However, it's 2.4 GHz only, and 802.11n only.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I'd like to replace it with a newer card that…&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Supports 802.11ac (if not 802.11ax as well)&#xD;&#xA;2. Supports AP mode on both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands (Intel WiFi adapters are out, because their firmware [only allows 2.4 GHz AP](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/users/drivers/iwlwifi) due apparently to paranoia about FCC regulations for 5 GHz APs ‍♂️)&#xD;&#xA;3. Runs stably and efficiently under Linux with a driver that's in the mainline kernel&#xD;&#xA;4. Ideally, mini-PCIe… but I could live with an external/USB adapter if there's a much better option.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Based on reading [Wikipedia's comparison of Linux wifi drivers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_open-source_wireless_drivers#Driver_capabilities) and [kernel.org's comparison](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/users/drivers), it seems like either an Atheros or MediaTek device would be the best choices… but I'm open to others. Any recommendations?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54754" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14879" RevisionGUID="b5107f5f-bf32-43ee-95f9-bafca51f4a80" CreationDate="2021-05-15T22:49:33.523" UserId="18614" Text="WiFi adapter that supports 802.11ac AP on 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands, for Linux" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54755" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14879" RevisionGUID="b5107f5f-bf32-43ee-95f9-bafca51f4a80" CreationDate="2021-05-15T22:49:33.523" UserId="18614" Text="&lt;linux&gt;&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;pcie&gt;&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;access-point&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54756" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14880" RevisionGUID="033d6949-7af3-4de7-b928-4eeeadc0697a" CreationDate="2021-05-16T16:06:05.803" UserId="531" Text="Its a standard hard drive - what you're missing is a cable that breaks out the ZIF socket to a regular HDD. The [Service manual][1] is a great starting point.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You're looking for a `Hard drive cable L22526-001` - and you should be able to find it easily by searching for the part number `L22526-001`&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c06723426.pdf" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54761" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14882" RevisionGUID="ddf09fa6-a0f9-40bd-a577-61145bb38a25" CreationDate="2021-05-16T23:36:42.860" UserId="18620" Text="I'm going to build a PC for deep learning and computer vision stuff. I'm really confused about which processor should I get. I've read to many articles about it but couldn't decide. I will choose 10600k or 3700x. Actually 3700x is better for my budget. My GPU will be RTX 3060. I also use Android Studio etc. Which processor would you recommend? Does AMD make problem when running Python or C codes. If there anyone who has experience I'll appreciate if give advice. Thank you." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54762" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14882" RevisionGUID="ddf09fa6-a0f9-40bd-a577-61145bb38a25" CreationDate="2021-05-16T23:36:42.860" UserId="18620" Text="Processor Choice for Deep Learning PC" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54763" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14882" RevisionGUID="ddf09fa6-a0f9-40bd-a577-61145bb38a25" CreationDate="2021-05-16T23:36:42.860" UserId="18620" Text="&lt;processor&gt;&lt;intel&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54764" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="6925" RevisionGUID="57097939-4b09-44ab-86fe-64dbd3a30769" CreationDate="2021-05-17T00:00:31.000" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54765" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14883" RevisionGUID="b221384b-1543-4bbf-87d1-04d395a63fa6" CreationDate="2021-05-17T03:40:05.987" UserId="17136" Text="I can answer some of the questions, but not all.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;5. a. Definitely two 16GB sticks of RAM.  With the way ram works the CPU&#xD;&#xA;controller can only support two sticks (dual channel) and if you had four 8GB sticks, the CPU would have to split the two busses into four virtual busses, therefore reducing your speed.  But I would definitely get two 16GB sticks rather than one 32GB stick.  It's also nice for upgradability.  If you need more ram in the future, you have two free slots on your motherboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   b. Nope&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;6. Not sure about warranty, but it does definitely add a layer of protection to the cables,  With all the metal components in a computer, having bare rubber coming in contact with metal, the cords would degrade faster than if it had a braided sleeve.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;7. I've heard good things about the Sound Blaster AE-5 plus.  Seems like a good choice given it has support for 7.1 surround and a built in amp for headphones up to 600 ohms.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;8. Don't go partition crazy.  Keep all your programs in the Program Files folder on your C: drive.  The m.2 drive will be able to keep up with all of these without the partitions.  All the partitions will just make you go crazy ;).  Also, make sure to get an m.2 NVMe drive, not an m.2 sata drive as it will have much, much higher speeds.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54766" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14884" RevisionGUID="3d280134-98b8-44ee-81d4-5a8eb0949e40" CreationDate="2021-05-17T07:41:56.397" UserId="18622" Text="Are you looking for this product: https://www.fourfaith.com/f3436h-vehicle-wifioperatingrouter.html? I have bought this product and it is of very good quality." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54767" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14885" RevisionGUID="c32f0d14-72bc-43ab-9c92-042edcf276cf" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:55:14.123" UserId="18478" Text="I have a [MikroTik SXT LTE6][1] kit which I need a router for, to extend range. The reason being is because the place where I need the actual wifi coverage to be might/will be out of my LTE access point's range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would need about a 100 meters of range radius, but a super high-tech router with immeasurable speeds is also gratuitous as it would only be limited by the SXT. I'm not sure if there is a weather resistant option, but it definitely would be a plus, as there could be times, where it needs to be used outside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should a traditional router be enough or I need something specific? Could you recommend a brand or type?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/sxt_lte6_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54768" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14885" RevisionGUID="c32f0d14-72bc-43ab-9c92-042edcf276cf" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:55:14.123" UserId="18478" Text="What is a good outdoors ethernet router?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54769" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14885" RevisionGUID="c32f0d14-72bc-43ab-9c92-042edcf276cf" CreationDate="2021-05-17T18:55:14.123" UserId="18478" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;ethernet&gt;&lt;4g&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54771" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14885" RevisionGUID="4f74a513-6cb7-4d2b-a324-97d6ae244b62" CreationDate="2021-05-17T19:01:34.803" UserId="18478" Comment="deleted 5 characters in body" Text="I have a [MikroTik SXT LTE6][1] kit which I need a router for, to extend range. The reason being is because the place where I need the actual wifi coverage to be might/will be out of my LTE access point's range.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I would need about a 100 meters of range radius, but a super high-tech router with immeasurable speeds is also gratuitous as it would only be limited by the SXT. I'm not sure if there is a weatherproof option, but it definitely would be a plus, as there could be times, where it needs to be used outside.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Should a traditional router be enough or I need something specific? Could you recommend a brand or type?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Thanks in advance!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://mikrotik.com/product/sxt_lte6_kit" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54772" PostHistoryTypeId="4" PostId="14885" RevisionGUID="e7e0e161-3cc8-4dbc-8be4-ad6b8c2dfe1b" CreationDate="2021-05-17T20:39:56.513" UserId="18478" Comment="edited title" Text="High range outdoors router?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54773" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14886" RevisionGUID="e35e1145-ec01-44c4-9ba7-2800ea19274c" CreationDate="2021-05-17T23:39:55.917" UserId="1873" Text="Mini PCIe has fallen out of favor, being replaced by m.2. That said, there's a lot of adapters available.&#xA;&#xA;Personally, I'm strongly in favor of Intel's wireless cards, they tend to have good open source support and quality drivers in general. You can buy AX210, which supports 802.11ax, bundled with the necessary adapter.&#xA;&#xA;Edit: I didn't read closely enough and failed to notice the point about Intel. The point about the adapter by itself should be a comment, but SE doesn't allow deleting answers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54774" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14887" RevisionGUID="1e69ed42-3368-4971-b53e-2bec1e9e1123" CreationDate="2021-05-17T23:46:25.397" UserId="1873" Text="You don't say what type of connector is on the other end, but my guess would be it's a 4-pin 2.5mm jack. Those are sometimes used for balanced headphone signal. The cables are not very common, but knowing what plug it is you should be able to find and order one." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54775" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="14776" RevisionGUID="2249e817-3c79-40ec-875f-5c1edef85c17" CreationDate="2021-05-18T00:00:45.067" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54776" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14888" RevisionGUID="8aab1e3a-ce53-4090-a505-6ae98268659e" CreationDate="2021-05-18T01:09:03.103" UserId="17136" Text="I have an i7-10700f and love it!  If you can afford a little bit more, I would highly recommend it.  It works well with python." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54777" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14889" RevisionGUID="ecd16749-fed8-4cc1-9b69-e7facbe67487" CreationDate="2021-05-18T01:28:24.100" UserId="17136" Text="In this case, I would suggest running an ethernet cable from the LTE access point to the place where you need the wifi signal and add the router there.  While you may be able to find a router with a 100-meter range, at that length the speeds will be extremely slow.  [This cable should be long enough][1].  It is also weatherproof.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-IMONTA-Resistant-Waterproof-Buried-able/dp/B07648BCNV/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54778" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14890" RevisionGUID="5ae514c9-4b57-4c94-a385-4ddcb781ea72" CreationDate="2021-05-18T14:15:19.190" UserId="18628" Text="I am looking for a wearable or a similar portable device with the following requirement:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heart Rate monitoring&#xD;&#xA; - Supports **continuous** ECG monitoring capabilities (especially for Atrial Filtration)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports wireless connection to Android Smartphones for alerts&#xD;&#xA; - Has attained some form of accreditation or clearance either by the FDA or its EU Equivalent&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should also preferably have any of the following:&#xD;&#xA; - Some form of electronic blood pressure monitoring&#xD;&#xA; - Fall detection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The immediate candidates to mind include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy Watch 3&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy Watch Active 2&#xD;&#xA; - Fitbit Sense&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they do require the wearer to actively take an ECG reading, if I understood them correctly i.e. placing fingers on contact points or the like, then actively taking a reading (Although if the wearer can continuously trigger active readings by just leaving the fingers on or something ad-hoc it would be acceptable too)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I apologize if this is the wrong site to ask, but my understanding of this site, based on https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware it seems like this is the right site based on the above link's definition of Hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware is any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where the primary computing platform is a smartphone, and the device recommendation is electronic in nature." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54779" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14890" RevisionGUID="5ae514c9-4b57-4c94-a385-4ddcb781ea72" CreationDate="2021-05-18T14:15:19.190" UserId="18628" Text="Any recommendations for a portable wearable that can continuously monitor ECG?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54780" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14890" RevisionGUID="5ae514c9-4b57-4c94-a385-4ddcb781ea72" CreationDate="2021-05-18T14:15:19.190" UserId="18628" Text="&lt;wearable-technology&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54781" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14890" RevisionGUID="b5b883a7-0642-4cf8-94aa-0380d5f62094" CreationDate="2021-05-18T19:43:00.080" UserId="18628" Comment="added 3 characters in body" Text="I am looking for a wearable or a similar portable device with the following requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Heart Rate monitoring&#xD;&#xA; - Supports **continuous** ECG monitoring capabilities (especially for Atrial fibrillation)&#xD;&#xA; - Supports wireless connection to Android Smartphones for alerts&#xD;&#xA; - Has attained some form of accreditation or clearance either by the FDA or its EU Equivalent&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should also preferably have any of the following:&#xD;&#xA; - Some form of electronic blood pressure monitoring&#xD;&#xA; - Fall detection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The immediate candidates to mind include:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy Watch 3&#xD;&#xA; - Samsung Galaxy Watch Active 2&#xD;&#xA; - Fitbit Sense&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;But they do require the wearer to actively take an ECG reading, if I understood them correctly i.e. placing fingers on contact points or the like, then actively taking a reading (Although if the wearer can continuously trigger active readings by just leaving the fingers on or something ad-hoc it would be acceptable too)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I apologize if this is the wrong site to ask, but my understanding of this site, based on https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/265/what-is-hardware it seems like this is the right site based on the above link's definition of Hardware:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; Hardware is any primarily electronic item that can perform more than one task, designed to interface with, connect to, or be, a primary computing platform in day-to-day operation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Where the primary computing platform is a smartphone, and the device recommendation is electronic in nature." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54782" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14891" RevisionGUID="666dd7c4-8c7e-44b2-8af6-73ceaeeba445" CreationDate="2021-05-19T02:41:22.373" UserId="18631" Text="I have a 2019 HP Pavilion laptop in which 16GB of RAM are specified (as a maximum, I guess). However, when I ran &quot;sudo dmidecode -t memory | grep -i max&quot; on the terminal, it output:&#xD;&#xA; ```&#xD;&#xA;Maximum Capacity: 32 GB&#xD;&#xA;	Maximum Voltage: 1.5 V&#xD;&#xA;	Maximum Voltage: 1.5 V&#xD;&#xA; ``` &#xD;&#xA;If 32GB RAM were installed would it be utilized by the laptop?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54783" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14891" RevisionGUID="666dd7c4-8c7e-44b2-8af6-73ceaeeba445" CreationDate="2021-05-19T02:41:22.373" UserId="18631" Text="Installing more RAM on laptop than specified, OK?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54784" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14891" RevisionGUID="666dd7c4-8c7e-44b2-8af6-73ceaeeba445" CreationDate="2021-05-19T02:41:22.373" UserId="18631" Text="&lt;laptop&gt;&lt;memory&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54788" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="8058" RevisionGUID="17193b4e-33cd-4eac-8eeb-e7777a667b0b" CreationDate="2021-05-19T04:06:15.577" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54789" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14893" RevisionGUID="892b1439-47fd-4cc3-a570-a880b7e73047" CreationDate="2021-05-19T08:59:00.623" UserId="9201" Text="I'm looking at picking up a Dell R740 for use as a VDI server for 15-20 users running Sage applications, web browsers and Microsoft Office applications. It will have 56 cores and 192GB memory but I'm really stumped on graphics.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* I was looking at nVIDIA's **Tesla M10**, which is offered by Dell as an option, but really put off by the ongoing licence costs to nVIDIA (the expense, the added purchasing complexity and added setup complexity) and the fact that it's old hardware (Maxwell architecture) and end-of-life, being replaced by...&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* The nVIDIA **A16**, with the same licencing issues (but now vPC instead of GRID?) but doesn't appear to have actually launched (Wikipedia says it launched a month ago but no UK retailers list it and it seems no price has been announced).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;* There's also AMD's **Radeon Pro V340 (MxGPU)**, which looks perfect in terms of being geared towards VDI and with no licence costs but it seems these are only sold to major cloud providers.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Alternatively, there's consumer Radeon graphics cards or workstation options like the Radeon Pro WX9100, but I'm not sure if those provide what it needed to split the GPU across 15-20 VMs? And consumer cards are not really an option currently anyway with the pricing / availability situation.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Or for these not-so-demanding applications could we go with no dedicated graphics card at all?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Also, if anyone knows the maximum length of card that the R740 has clearance for, that would be helpful (it specifies dual-width and full height at least)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54790" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14893" RevisionGUID="892b1439-47fd-4cc3-a570-a880b7e73047" CreationDate="2021-05-19T08:59:00.623" UserId="9201" Text="VDI server graphics needs" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54791" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14893" RevisionGUID="892b1439-47fd-4cc3-a570-a880b7e73047" CreationDate="2021-05-19T08:59:00.623" UserId="9201" Text="&lt;server&gt;&lt;virtual-machines&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54795" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14895" RevisionGUID="c2c6c9ae-eee5-42b6-8d65-ce35bd06b0df" CreationDate="2021-05-19T12:16:03.680" UserId="18634" Text="I wanted to use a USB keyboard with my smartphone, so I ordered a female USB-A to female USB-A adapter to connect to the keyboard to my phone with its own charging cable. My phone doesn't detect the keyboard at all. Why not?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54796" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14895" RevisionGUID="c2c6c9ae-eee5-42b6-8d65-ce35bd06b0df" CreationDate="2021-05-19T12:16:03.680" UserId="18634" Text="Connecting smartphone charger cable to USB keyboard" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54797" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14895" RevisionGUID="c2c6c9ae-eee5-42b6-8d65-ce35bd06b0df" CreationDate="2021-05-19T12:16:03.680" UserId="18634" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;keyboards&gt;&lt;android&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54801" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14897" RevisionGUID="b8b21fd2-6719-43fe-a12f-fd14987df50f" CreationDate="2021-05-19T22:45:32.847" UserId="18635" Text="Galaxy Buds Pro support this. Uncomfortable as hell, but good sound, good mic and support simultaneous HSP and A2DP." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54802" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="12422" RevisionGUID="67d824f3-279c-45d8-a07f-79fc8cf522ab" CreationDate="2021-05-19T23:08:10.667" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54803" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14898" RevisionGUID="709613b8-3edd-4631-a185-47d8edd7c6ea" CreationDate="2021-05-19T23:38:40.820" UserId="18636" Text="Does anyone know if the u-blox NINA-W102 is capable of sending real time sound data with latency below 5ms? I can't find a lot of info on this component online. I've purchase the Arduino Nano rp2040, which comes with this component preinstalled. " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54804" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14898" RevisionGUID="709613b8-3edd-4631-a185-47d8edd7c6ea" CreationDate="2021-05-19T23:38:40.820" UserId="18636" Text="low latency wireless mic using u-blox NINA-W102" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54805" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14898" RevisionGUID="709613b8-3edd-4631-a185-47d8edd7c6ea" CreationDate="2021-05-19T23:38:40.820" UserId="18636" Text="&lt;wifi&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;microcontroller&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54815" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14902" RevisionGUID="af7db768-3c24-47d3-be43-7b26fddc29f8" CreationDate="2021-05-20T10:24:04.960" UserId="18640" Text="I have spent a lot of time looking for a new keyboard and have not seen one that matches my criteria. For instance as a programmer, to me, the buttons `Home`, `End`, `Delete` are very important but manufacturers commonly decide not to include these or put them in inconvenient places in favour of buttons like `ScrLk`, `Pause`, `Insert` taking the sweet spots (which are buttons I never use by the way). I am looking for a keyboard with the following features:&#xD;&#xA;- US layout&#xD;&#xA;- `CapsLock` (I don't use it either) isn't bigger than `Left Shift`. You have no idea how commonly I hit `CapsLock` instead of `Shift`.&#xD;&#xA;- *Big* `Enter`, preferably on 2 rows, e.g.&lt;br&gt;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&lt;br&gt;My current keyboard has `\` right above `Enter` and I end up pressing the wrong button quite commonly when typing fast.&#xD;&#xA;- `Home`, `End`, `Delete` conveniently placed near other active buttons e.g. above Backspace or at all somewhere near to the rest of the keys. In the middle of a Numpad doesn't quite fit. It works if `Home` and `End` are `Fn+Left/Right Arrow`&#xD;&#xA;- Preferably wireless and slim. I am not a fan of mechanical keyboards and prefer quiet ones as seen for instance on laptops as it lets me type much faster and quieter.&#xD;&#xA;- The final extra would be to have the super key say `super` (not to be confused with an Apple layout) or be a blank key instead of the Windows. Now obviously this is only an extra, although I am not really a fan of having a corporate trademark of a product I do not use stuck on an item I use all the time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I am by no means asking anyone to search for a keyboard with these criteria for me.; I am posting this just in case you have already seen something like what I described, in which case I would really appreciate the brand and model. Thanks!&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJTUo.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54816" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14902" RevisionGUID="af7db768-3c24-47d3-be43-7b26fddc29f8" CreationDate="2021-05-20T10:24:04.960" UserId="18640" Text="Looking for a PC wireless keyboard for programming" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54817" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14902" RevisionGUID="af7db768-3c24-47d3-be43-7b26fddc29f8" CreationDate="2021-05-20T10:24:04.960" UserId="18640" Text="&lt;keyboards&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54821" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14903" RevisionGUID="95659503-a11e-4093-8269-f97fd2a17bd5" CreationDate="2021-05-21T07:58:58.523" UserId="1410" Text="As the title says. I have a single use need for a video camera, hence &quot;cheap&quot;. I have only two requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. mumst be able to record a minimum of 4 hours in a single video  &#xD;&#xA; 2. the camera must record a timestamp onto the video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have access to a Go-Pro Hero7, but it looks like the timestamp has to be added in post-processing by using some additional software. This is sub-optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that there is no need for GPS, which should keep the price down." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54822" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14903" RevisionGUID="95659503-a11e-4093-8269-f97fd2a17bd5" CreationDate="2021-05-21T07:58:58.523" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap camera to record minimum 4 hours video with tiemstamp on video" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54823" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14903" RevisionGUID="95659503-a11e-4093-8269-f97fd2a17bd5" CreationDate="2021-05-21T07:58:58.523" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;video-camera&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54824" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14904" RevisionGUID="fd965722-b494-4138-945b-c05c41aa12b4" CreationDate="2021-05-21T08:43:36.930" UserId="1410" Text="Someone wants me to develop an app using RFID readers. Unfortunately, they insist on 134.20KHz readers and my partner tells me that those are rather pricey (I have asked him for an exact price; I can't even find any when I search, which worries me).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the cheapest that you know of? I prefer that it offers a serial port interface to a PC which will run my app. I could live with USB &amp; use a cheap USB to serial converter. I would prefer not to use Ethernet or WiFi, but could live with the, I suppose." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54825" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14904" RevisionGUID="fd965722-b494-4138-945b-c05c41aa12b4" CreationDate="2021-05-21T08:43:36.930" UserId="1410" Text="Cheap 134.20KHz RFID reader?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54826" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14904" RevisionGUID="fd965722-b494-4138-945b-c05c41aa12b4" CreationDate="2021-05-21T08:43:36.930" UserId="1410" Text="&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54828" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14903" RevisionGUID="84298408-c93d-4fd9-b7c4-5776e5086e55" CreationDate="2021-05-22T09:11:14.700" UserId="1410" Comment="added 37 characters in body" Text="As the title says. I have a single use need for a video camera, hence &quot;cheap&quot;. I have only two requirements:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; 1. mumst be able to record a minimum of 4 hours in a single video  &#xD;&#xA; 2. the camera must record a timestamp onto the video&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I currently have access to a Go-Pro Hero7, but it looks like the timestamp has to be added in post-processing by using some additional software. This is sub-optimal.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Note that there is no need for GPS, which should keep the price down.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----   &#xD;&#xA;[Update] minimum 720 fps" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54829" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14904" RevisionGUID="d917067c-f444-4912-8169-7557a2761f05" CreationDate="2021-05-22T09:33:46.920" UserId="1410" Comment="added 144 characters in body; edited tags" Text="Someone wants me to develop an app using RFID readers. Unfortunately, they insist on 134.20KHz readers and my partner tells me that those are rather pricey (I have asked him for an exact price; I can't even find any when I search, which worries me).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What's the cheapest that you know of? I prefer that it offers a serial port interface to a PC which will run my app. I could live with USB &amp; use a cheap USB to serial converter. I would prefer not to use Ethernet or WiFi, but could live with the, I suppose.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;----   &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[Update]  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&gt; The reader costs range from sgd350 to sgd400&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;which is approx $225 to $300, Eur 185 to Eur 250, £ 160 to £ 210." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54830" PostHistoryTypeId="6" PostId="14904" RevisionGUID="d917067c-f444-4912-8169-7557a2761f05" CreationDate="2021-05-22T09:33:46.920" UserId="1410" Comment="added 144 characters in body; edited tags" Text="&lt;cheap&gt;&lt;rfid&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54831" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14905" RevisionGUID="8b306030-605c-464b-818a-4c61b6c9d811" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:25:41.067" UserId="18650" Text="Looking for **completely open-source** alternatives to the Raspberr Pi, Looking for an **100% libre** computing expierence.&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I don't about hardware specifications it just needs to be 100% libre*" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54832" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14905" RevisionGUID="8b306030-605c-464b-818a-4c61b6c9d811" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:25:41.067" UserId="18650" Text="Looking for an **Open-Source** Single Board Computer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54833" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14905" RevisionGUID="8b306030-605c-464b-818a-4c61b6c9d811" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:25:41.067" UserId="18650" Text="&lt;motherboard&gt;&lt;raspberry-pi&gt;&lt;floss&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54834" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14905" RevisionGUID="13af5489-5ae4-475a-beba-b5a38c1b5f6b" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:54:42.253" UserId="18650" Comment="added 41 characters in body" Text="Looking for **completely open-source** alternatives to the Raspberr Pi, Looking for an **100% libre** computing expierence.&#xD;&#xA;Any recommendations?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;*I don't about hardware specifications it just needs to be 100% libre*&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;For price range preferably under 35 USD" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54835" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11004" RevisionGUID="f1a6cace-0588-46ec-9b68-9dde3ce8dc48" CreationDate="2021-05-22T19:03:15.293" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54836" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14906" RevisionGUID="b76cbcba-325f-4cd0-ad74-5aac59abec6d" CreationDate="2021-05-22T19:46:12.390" UserId="18651" Text="Is it possible to project films I access on my computer, e.g. on Netflix and Youtube, to some projectors via bluetooth?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54837" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14906" RevisionGUID="b76cbcba-325f-4cd0-ad74-5aac59abec6d" CreationDate="2021-05-22T19:46:12.390" UserId="18651" Text="Projecting video via bluetooth?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54838" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14906" RevisionGUID="b76cbcba-325f-4cd0-ad74-5aac59abec6d" CreationDate="2021-05-22T19:46:12.390" UserId="18651" Text="&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;projector&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54842" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14907" RevisionGUID="ebe80d5c-6ea0-4b17-b466-2bc13a4cdd3c" CreationDate="2021-05-23T13:17:46.623" UserId="18652" Text="I have a PS5, a PC, Speakers and a Headset. I'm looking for a device to connect all these together. I want to hear the audio of PS5 and PC at the same time with my Headset or Speakers. A button to switch my mic between PS5 and PC. And a button to switch the audio output between Headset and Speakers." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54843" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14907" RevisionGUID="ebe80d5c-6ea0-4b17-b466-2bc13a4cdd3c" CreationDate="2021-05-23T13:17:46.623" UserId="18652" Text="PS5/PC Audiomixer" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54844" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14907" RevisionGUID="ebe80d5c-6ea0-4b17-b466-2bc13a4cdd3c" CreationDate="2021-05-23T13:17:46.623" UserId="18652" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;audio&gt;&lt;audio-adapters&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54845" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14908" RevisionGUID="4218f986-74b1-44d8-8b8d-1af9325b1345" CreationDate="2021-05-23T18:49:15.673" UserId="18655" Text="Spending 30 years next to computers, I think your *exact* wish is not existing, however, just like you also wrote, close enough candidates can be found. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I think a viable one could be **Logitech K800** ([picture][1]), I have also used it for some years, even as software specialist.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA; - US layout: exists&#xD;&#xA; - LShift &gt; Caps: on US layout it is &#xD;&#xA; - Wireless &amp; Slim: it is. (&amp; non-mech)&#xD;&#xA;  &#xD;&#xA;   **Extra**: illuminated keys :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   **X** - no 2-row Enter :(&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   *Alt* - Del/Home/End location. Honestly I'm not sure what your preference would be with these. I would be happy if you let me know in comments. I get it for FN + L/R, but I know no such manufactured keyboard.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;   *Alt* - Super/etc. key location is not fixed. My current Logitech K270 has &quot;context menu&quot; button there, K800 had FN button there. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This is my suggestion with first hand experience. I hope you like it or will find some more suitable one. In the end I'm interested what you find as best fit, I will be happy if you share :)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.complies.de/media/catalog/product/cache/3/image/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/t/e/temp_85888.jpg" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54846" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14909" RevisionGUID="a38e3268-3495-4ee7-804e-5cbf969c7a93" CreationDate="2021-05-24T01:30:34.540" UserId="1084" Text="The best you can get, (which you can't get, because it's not released for the general public yet), is the BeagleV. This board has a RISC-V CPU. It does come with some nvidia hardware on it, but the rest should be good.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It is supposed to be available for the general public around summer 2021, where you will be able to get cheaper options than the current, quite a lot steeper price than what you asked for, of 149$.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;You will be able to run several OS' on the board, including Fedora and RTOS.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;https://beaglev.seeed.cc/" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54847" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14910" RevisionGUID="90fea6dd-c0ef-4acc-badd-9b30f295ba0c" CreationDate="2021-05-25T07:40:47.507" UserId="7680" Text="As I mentioned above, I'm looking for a portable mobile data router which should be preferably open, so it supports OpenWRT or something similar.&#xD;&#xA;I'm also open to solutions using a Raspberry Pi or something similar.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The most important point for me is that it should be configurable quite well. One of my main problems with my current solution is that you can only choose between Denying or Allowing specific MAC addresses, but you can't use both at once. And it forgets the settings of the &quot;opposite&quot; as soon as you change your choice.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;It should be available in Austria!" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54848" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14910" RevisionGUID="90fea6dd-c0ef-4acc-badd-9b30f295ba0c" CreationDate="2021-05-25T07:40:47.507" UserId="7680" Text="Looking for a good, preferably open, portable mobile data router" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54849" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14910" RevisionGUID="90fea6dd-c0ef-4acc-badd-9b30f295ba0c" CreationDate="2021-05-25T07:40:47.507" UserId="7680" Text="&lt;router&gt;&lt;portable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54850" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="11942" RevisionGUID="f44627c3-efb0-4ac2-97a0-455e281670ca" CreationDate="2021-05-25T08:01:30.217" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54851" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14911" RevisionGUID="9c7b8c02-b0cc-421b-a594-536e05a4bb0e" CreationDate="2021-05-25T11:58:41.200" UserId="17256" Text="I am looking for an external monitor which is of size 34 inch. When I checked the options in LG there a lot of options each with different screen resolution. What would be the ideal screen resolution for a MacBook Pro 2017 model. The monitor is working in an IDE. What factors needs to be kept in mind when looking for the monitor? " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54852" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14911" RevisionGUID="9c7b8c02-b0cc-421b-a594-536e05a4bb0e" CreationDate="2021-05-25T11:58:41.200" UserId="17256" Text="Ideal 34 inch monitor resolution for MacBook Pro 2017 model" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54853" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14911" RevisionGUID="9c7b8c02-b0cc-421b-a594-536e05a4bb0e" CreationDate="2021-05-25T11:58:41.200" UserId="17256" Text="&lt;monitors&gt;&lt;apple&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54854" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14912" RevisionGUID="c66f135c-66c4-46dc-8cd1-af536c913f76" CreationDate="2021-05-25T19:12:18.633" UserId="18667" Text="I have a setup where I am planning on using a USB-C switcher to send a signal to a dock that uses display cables to send video to two monitors. The USB-C switcher is intended to take a signal from my laptop or my PC so I can switch the monitors between displaying the laptop or PC output. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The issue is, I do not have a USB-C port on my PC, and I cannot find a USB3-&gt;USB-C adapter or cable that also transmits video. Can anyone point me to one? It needs to send a video output via USB3 *to* USB-C (I clarify this because I’ve found the opposite, but that does not work for my needs)." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54855" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14912" RevisionGUID="c66f135c-66c4-46dc-8cd1-af536c913f76" CreationDate="2021-05-25T19:12:18.633" UserId="18667" Text="USB3 transmitting video to USB-C" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54856" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14912" RevisionGUID="c66f135c-66c4-46dc-8cd1-af536c913f76" CreationDate="2021-05-25T19:12:18.633" UserId="18667" Text="&lt;usb&gt;&lt;video-adapters&gt;&lt;usb-c&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54858" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14913" RevisionGUID="ef4aba93-ed54-4ad7-9fce-7aa725f1c072" CreationDate="2021-05-25T23:35:12.547" UserId="18668" Text="I bought a flat cat6 cable a while back, It promptly got chopped into 2 and now I'm left with a 2 half cables. I bought another cable, which is now in use. I do however have 50 meters of cable. I also have a crimper and know how to use it.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I do not have is any RJ45 connectors or boots. I would like to order a few (50 or 100) and then make use of my chopped up cable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What I would like to do is get some boots *that are made for the flat cable* rather than have poorly-fitting square peg (cable) in a round hole scenario.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**Any recommendations about where I could order/buy flat-cable RJ45 / boots would be welcome. I live in BC, Canada. (*Online ordering with delivery would be prefereable)***" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54859" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14913" RevisionGUID="ef4aba93-ed54-4ad7-9fce-7aa725f1c072" CreationDate="2021-05-25T23:35:12.547" UserId="18668" Text="Flat Cat6 RJ45 and boots" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54860" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14913" RevisionGUID="ef4aba93-ed54-4ad7-9fce-7aa725f1c072" CreationDate="2021-05-25T23:35:12.547" UserId="18668" Text="&lt;network-adapter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54861" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14914" RevisionGUID="30b5fed7-73df-4d05-9782-ece7c08fc984" CreationDate="2021-05-26T09:44:44.420" UserId="1873" Text="It's hard to find a fully libre design in your price range. Most will be based on Allwiner or similar SoCs, which are probably not vendors you want to support, regardless of the availability of opensource code, not to mention schematics. In addition you probably won't find WiFi without closed, binary blob firmware.&#xA;&#xA;Having said that, there are such vendors and boards. Texas Instruments, NXP and ST Microelectronics are vendors with first party OSS support, although you might have to accept an EULA. In addition both TI and NXP have support in Linux Foundation Yocto Project. ST probably has it too but I'm unable to check right now.&#xA;&#xA;Most, if not all, of this SoCs will be using PowerVR graphics, which traditionally didn't play nice with OSS, but the current free driver has performance parity with the priopretary one. This is probably a compromise you'll have to make.&#xA;&#xA;On to boards themselves. First vendor which comes to mind is BeagleBoard, particularly PocketBeagle and BeagleBone Black. Second, which I believe also has schematics available, is MYiR (myirtech), although the software provided will be likely outdated, so you'll have to port or update to something more modern yourself.&#xA;&#xA;Lastly, when asking for fully libre hardware, please specify where you draw the line - when you get to the bottom of it, nothing is fully open. Software is one thing. With hardware some vendors will provide schematics, rare ones will provide board design files, but there are no open source SoCs around. Similarly, most WiFi chips require closed source firmware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54862" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14915" RevisionGUID="2164ef27-b489-4b32-a1d3-d83c8f214eae" CreationDate="2021-05-26T14:15:56.223" UserId="18678" Text="I am trying to get the best feasible PC for gaming purposes.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;My budget is 1000€, so I went to a shop that gave me a 1800€ PC configuration.&#xD;&#xA;The one they provide is:&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][1]][1]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The price of the one with Nvidia 1660 is 1600€ with a price of 529€ only the GPU. The 3060 cost 200€ more.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;As I have an screen that i do not want to change yet, asus `pb277q`, which works at 75Hz, I do not need more than this fps yet.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The problem of my budget is the GPU which is the thing that cost almost 50% of the total, so I thought to get a very powerful set of components for the rest of the PC and buy a `[GTX 1050TI 4GB]ASUS CERBERUS GEFORCE GTX 1050TI` that will cost me 175€.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This GPU price leaves 825€ to create the following config:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;[![enter image description here][2]][2]&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Later on, my intention is once the GPU prices came back to the normal one, buy a new one that fix the current bottleneck, and also a screen that works at 144Hz.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;How do you see it? Any incompatibily that i do not know? Any improvement? &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I checked the 1050, and seems to work at low cyberpunk at 40 fps. And battlefield V at 60fps. I will play this kind of games, so the bottleneck is hard, but its the only that I am able to pay right now. For me the current prices of GPU's are scam and unacceptable.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/mdCXw.jpg&#xD;&#xA;  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/1x9Qy.png" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54863" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14915" RevisionGUID="2164ef27-b489-4b32-a1d3-d83c8f214eae" CreationDate="2021-05-26T14:15:56.223" UserId="18678" Text="Gaming pc configuration" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54864" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14915" RevisionGUID="2164ef27-b489-4b32-a1d3-d83c8f214eae" CreationDate="2021-05-26T14:15:56.223" UserId="18678" Text="&lt;gaming&gt;&lt;pc&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54865" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="5682" RevisionGUID="e955c642-4e55-4d87-9772-869fdfa354ef" CreationDate="2021-05-26T15:04:05.437" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54866" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14916" RevisionGUID="ddb465ed-cbb6-490b-8c9a-be89d51c11e2" CreationDate="2021-05-27T13:38:26.447" UserId="17263" Text="**Buget and build tips**  &#xD;&#xA;If you're not going to do any serious overclocking(with custom water loops or even below ambient) You can save a bit of money by going for a B550 motherboard a decent one is even good enough for a 5950x so the 5600x is fine on one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Second, when going for an nvme drive try not to get a sata version. They are relatively slow for a miniscule cost saving. go for a decent to good nvme drive with a pci-e connection.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;third, unless you plan to add a 3080 later on, a 750W power supply is on the high side, you might want to go for a 650 from a reputable brand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**My advice**  &#xD;&#xA;If you plan to just play games. Go for an intel 11400F. The 5600x is a bit more powerful in gaming, but the real difference is in productivity work.&#xD;&#xA;With the monitor you're running and your budget. I'm assuming that 11400 isn't going to have to support a 3080 any time soon. So there really isn't going to be that much difference in gaming performance between the 5600x and the 11400 at that point.&#xD;&#xA;So if you don't need that productivity horsepower. I suggest going for the budget option." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54870" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14882" RevisionGUID="abce11ac-8e78-4553-aee8-be600e46ff38" CreationDate="2021-05-28T03:24:49.440" UserId="203" Comment="grammar and minor copyediting" Text="I'm planning to build a PC for deep learning and computer vision, but I'm really confused about which processor I should get. I've read too many articles about it, and still couldn't decide. Currently, I am considering the 10600K or 3700X: The 3700X fits better in my budget, but I am worried AMD might cause compatibility issues when running Python or C. My GPU will be the RTX 3060. I also use Android Studio, etc. Which processor would you recommend?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54871" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14917" RevisionGUID="203265ae-da05-4030-91c1-567fdae4961d" CreationDate="2021-05-28T04:42:22.297" UserId="18686" Text="I have an HP Pavilion 27-a001la all-in-one (tech specs [here](https://support.hp.com/cl-es/document/c05240074 &quot;HP Pavilion 27-a001la&quot;)), and I'd like to add an SSD drive (it has a 5400 rpm HDD). The motherboard (Saipan-4GF) has one &quot;socket m.2 2230 for WLAN&quot;. Can I use that socket to install an SSD, and if so, which one would you recommend? The idea is to keep both disks, and then transfer the OS (win10) + apps to the SSD and keep the HDD as file repository." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54872" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14917" RevisionGUID="203265ae-da05-4030-91c1-567fdae4961d" CreationDate="2021-05-28T04:42:22.297" UserId="18686" Text="Can I use a SSD in a socket m.2 2230 for WLAN" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54873" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14917" RevisionGUID="203265ae-da05-4030-91c1-567fdae4961d" CreationDate="2021-05-28T04:42:22.297" UserId="18686" Text="&lt;ssd&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54874" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14914" RevisionGUID="270985bb-1643-4fa7-ab3f-704908b6504a" CreationDate="2021-05-28T10:49:23.793" UserId="1873" Comment="Checked and updated info about Yocto support" Text="It's hard to find a fully libre design in your price range. Most will be based on Allwiner or similar SoCs, which are probably not vendors you want to support, regardless of the availability of opensource code, not to mention schematics. In addition you probably won't find WiFi without closed, binary blob firmware.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Having said that, there are such vendors and boards. Texas Instruments, NXP and ST Microelectronics are vendors with first party OSS support, although you might have to accept an EULA. [NXP](https://layers.openembedded.org/layerindex/branch/hardknott/layer/meta-freescale/) has support in Linux Foundation Yocto Project, some TI boards are supported too ([BeagleBone Black](http://git.yoctoproject.org/cgit/cgit.cgi/meta-yocto/tree/meta-yocto-bsp/conf/machine/beaglebone-yocto.conf?h=hardknott) for example). ST has [first-party Yocto layer on GitHub](https://github.com/STMicroelectronics/meta-st-stm32mp).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Most, if not all, of this SoCs will be using PowerVR graphics, which traditionally didn't play nice with OSS, but the current free driver has performance parity with the priopretary one. This is probably a compromise you'll have to make.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;On to boards themselves. First vendor which comes to mind is BeagleBoard, particularly PocketBeagle and BeagleBone Black. Second, which I believe also has schematics available, is MYiR (myirtech), although the software provided will be likely outdated, so you'll have to port or update to something more modern yourself.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Lastly, when asking for fully libre hardware, please specify where you draw the line - when you get to the bottom of it, nothing is fully open. Software is one thing. With hardware some vendors will provide schematics, rare ones will provide board design files, but there are no open source SoCs around. Similarly, most WiFi chips require closed source firmware." ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54875" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14918" RevisionGUID="4dc204a7-583f-429f-a73c-ca742e2fcf1b" CreationDate="2021-05-28T17:38:41.323" UserId="18689" Text="**In short:** I’m looking for a hardware/software solution to handle an amount of data, which should be accessible from multiple devices **including iPhone** and protected from unauthorised access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In detail:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve got a file repository of some 500GB with that I want to check in from once a day to several times an hour. Most of the data is confidential, so I can’t carry it around on an unprotected USB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to access the repository from any of my devices, namely two Windows 10 PCs (home and work), a Windows 10 laptop and necessarily **iPhone 11 Pro**. (If no iPhone was involved, then the task would be trivial.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The repository must be accessible regardless of the Internet connection, so cloud storage isn’t an option. The solution should probably include a physical storage device that I can keep on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The data must be protected with a password I need to enter exactly once per connection to a device. E.g., so that I can connect the repository to iPhone, then enter a password and gain full access to the data without re-entering the password until disconnected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also don’t want a physical combination lock, fingerprint scanner, etc. on storage device; only a regular old-school password to enter on a PC or iPhone to which the device is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve tried [an iDiskk device][1] that can work as an external drive for iPhone, but it doesn’t support password encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There might be some kind of specialty adapter that can connect a regular external SSD to my iPhone and works with a dedicated app, but I haven’t found one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would appreciate your suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.idiskk.com/idiskk_new/content/?132.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54876" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14918" RevisionGUID="4dc204a7-583f-429f-a73c-ca742e2fcf1b" CreationDate="2021-05-28T17:38:41.323" UserId="18689" Text="An external iPhone-compatible storage device with password protection?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54877" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14918" RevisionGUID="4dc204a7-583f-429f-a73c-ca742e2fcf1b" CreationDate="2021-05-28T17:38:41.323" UserId="18689" Text="&lt;data-storage&gt;&lt;encryption&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54878" PostHistoryTypeId="50" PostId="10066" RevisionGUID="bbf97df9-cce2-480d-80fc-e3ca57966d55" CreationDate="2021-05-28T18:03:35.347" UserId="-1" />
  <row Id="54879" PostHistoryTypeId="5" PostId="14918" RevisionGUID="6c48942d-e0fd-43f5-8024-7ac6033d9b96" CreationDate="2021-05-28T20:08:25.260" UserId="18689" Comment="added 1 character in body" Text="**In short:** I’m looking for a hardware/software solution to handle an amount of data, which should be accessible from multiple devices **including iPhone** and protected from unauthorised access.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;**In detail:**&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve got a file repository of some 500GB with that I want to check in from once a day to several times an hour. Most of the data is confidential, so I can’t carry it around on an unprotected USB stick.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I want to access the repository from any of my devices, namely two Windows 10 PCs (home and work), a Windows 10 laptop and necessarily **iPhone 11 Pro**. (If no iPhone were involved, then the task would be trivial.)&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The repository must be accessible regardless of the Internet connection, so cloud storage isn’t an option. The solution should probably include a physical storage device that I can keep on hand.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The data must be protected with a password I need to enter exactly once per connection to a device. E.g., so that I can connect the repository to iPhone, then enter a password and gain full access to the data without re-entering the password until disconnected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I also don’t want a physical combination lock, fingerprint scanner, etc. on storage device; only a regular old-school password to enter on a PC or iPhone to which the device is connected.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I’ve tried [an iDiskk device][1] that can work as an external drive for iPhone, but it doesn’t support password encryption.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;There might be some kind of specialty adapter that can connect a regular external SSD to my iPhone and works with a dedicated app, but I haven’t found one.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;So I would appreciate your suggestions.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;  [1]: https://www.idiskk.com/idiskk_new/content/?132.html" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54880" PostHistoryTypeId="2" PostId="14919" RevisionGUID="eeae1f5f-0487-4cef-a101-c21e392fdd16" CreationDate="2021-05-29T01:03:49.403" UserId="18690" Text="I have a headset that comes with a dongle that you connect to the PC and it won't connect to the phone because it is not bluetooth in that way. SO I was wondering if there is any way to do something like the following &quot;proxy&quot; configuration:&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;1. Connect the headset to the PC using the dongle&#xD;&#xA;2. Expose the headset as a bluetooth device using the PC and another bluetooth dongle&#xD;&#xA;3. Connect the phone to the new bluetooth virtual device&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If not like above, any other idea?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;I have a 2.4 GHz headset called HyperX Cloud Flight S " ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54881" PostHistoryTypeId="1" PostId="14919" RevisionGUID="eeae1f5f-0487-4cef-a101-c21e392fdd16" CreationDate="2021-05-29T01:03:49.403" UserId="18690" Text="Is it possible to connect a headset as bluetooth when it is not?" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="54882" PostHistoryTypeId="3" PostId="14919" RevisionGUID="eeae1f5f-0487-4cef-a101-c21e392fdd16" CreationDate="2021-05-29T01:03:49.403" UserId="18690" Text="&lt;pc&gt;&lt;wireless&gt;&lt;bluetooth&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
</posthistory>